IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) // // 4. ^5^ ... #^. :/. f/i 1.0 I.I Ki 1^ 1 2.2 If ti& 12.0 L25 iiiii 1.4 1.6 V] <^ ^. ^ (meaning "CON- TINUED"), or the symbol V (meaning "END"), whichever applies. Les images suivantes ont 6tA reproduites avec le plus grand soin, compte tenu de la condition et de la nettetA de I'exemplaire film6, et en conformit6 avec les conditions du contrat de filmage. Les exemplaires originaux dont la couverture en papier est imprimte sont filmte en commen9ant par le premier plat et en terminant soit par la derniire page qui comporte une empreinte d'impression ou d'illustration. soit par le second plat, seion le cas. Tous les autres exemplaires originaux sont fiimis en commenpant par la premiere page qui comporte une empreinte d'impression ou d'illustration et en terminant par la derniire page qui comporte une telle empreinte. Un des symboles suivants apparaitra sur la derniire image de cheque microfiche, selon le cas: le symbole ^»> signifie "A SUIVRE", lo symbols V signifie "FIN ". Maps, plates, charts, etc.. may be filmed at different reduction retios. Those too large to be entirely included in one exposure are filmed beginning in the upper left hend corner, left to right and top to bottom, as many frames as required. The following diagrams illustrate the method: Les cartes, planches, tableaux, etc.. peuvent dtre fiim^s A des taux de reduction diffirents. Lorsque le document est trop grand pour dtre reproduit en un seul clichi, il est film^ it partir de I'angle sup6rieur gauche, de gauche A drolte, et de haut en bas, en prenant le nombre d'imeges n^cessaire. Les diagrammes suivants iilustrcnt la methods. 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 S 6 I I THE BRITISH COLUMBIA PILOT, s/:r()\n r:/uT/ux, IXC LU DING THE COAST OF 151UTISH ('()LI\M1MA FUOM -lUAX DE FUCA STHAIT To roiM'LAXD ('ANAL, ■|'()(;kthki{ with VAN<'ULVEI{ AND <,)UEEX (MAULUTTE INLANDS. OOMI'ILKlt FIIOM ADMIRALTY SURVEYS. prBUSHEll BY OUnF.n OF THK I.OKDS fOMMISSIONFRS OK TIIK VDMIRALTY. LONDON: PIIINTED FOR THK II VI)RO(i RAPHIC OFIMCK. ADMIRALTY; AXl) ^01.1) MY J, D. POTTER, AOKNT for THK SALF of ADMIRALp^'-^i^RTS, ,'il, POULTRY, AND IL KIN(i STRKKT, TONV^ .^^- %. LS98. '^ f>ri \\ CO acl isi Uc •<\h hi Hi be do Ui Isl SOI D. an( (lei D. Qu( G. Car visi of Pil( A D \ !•: K T I S !•: .M K N T TO THK BIUTISII (COLUMBIA PILOT, Seroiid Kditioii, lSi,)8. The British ('oluiiibia Pilot coutninis Sailing- Din'ctions for tho coast from Juan dt- Fiica strait to Portland canal ; with the adjacnt Inner channels ; also Vanootiver and Queen Charlotte islands. The information relatinif to the coast from the entrance to Juan dc Fuca strait, and Haro and liosario straits, to Bute inlet, as also to Vancouver island and adjacent channels, was obtained from the journals and surveys conducted l)y Captain G. H. iiichards, K.X., in H.M. Surveying Vessels P/u»ijier and Hecate, between the years 1^57 and ltSG"2. This, to^'ether with a descrip- tion of the included shores of Washington territory, derived from United States (iroveinnient Surveys, was published as the Vancouver Island Pilot, in iSt'.J. The coast of the mainlantl from Bute inlet to Queen Charlotte sound is chiefly derived from the Admiralty survey in charge of D. Pender, Master R.N., l,SG3-t)5. The directions for the coast between Queen Charlotte sound and Portland canal, with the adjacent Inner channels, are chielly derived from the Admiralty survey conducted by Staff ('ommander D. Pender, li.N., during the years ISllo-TO. The di-scription of Queen Charlotte islaiuls is compiU'd chiefly from the report by G. M. Dawson, Esq., F.G.S., published by the Government of Canada, 1S80, to which is added information derived from a visit of H.M.S. Virago in IS53, and from the Admiralty Survey of 1866. These were originally i)ublished as the Vancouver Island Pilot Supplement, in 188:5. SO 11948— 1000—8/96 Wt 'Jltifi D&S TT u In 1S(S8, tlu! al)()V(vnit'iiti()iictl, vi/., VaiR'ouvfr lblan all Hydrographic Notices relating to them and all Notices to Mariners, inclusive of No. '.\2'6 CHAPTER XT I. Chatham sound, Edye and Brown passages, and Dixou entrance 4Hi 17S CHAPTER XIII. Laredo sound to Opdun channel 17'J 4!t CHAPTER XIV Outer coast ; cape Calvert to Ogden channel CHAPTER XV. Portland and Observatory inlets and Portland canal 4itl-503 o04-,515 CHAPTER XVI. l(i-.-.l'.t 5.53-.598 ,599-606 605-606 SYSTEM OF ORTHOGRAPHY. Adopted by the Admindti/ for Hoilin;/ Dirrrtlo^iis and Cho.rt.^. As far as Ims hoon fotuul possible with oxistiiij; knowlcdizo, iiniivc names are spelt in at'conlnnce witli the f()lln\viii pronounced as in Italian and consonants as in English, every letter Immj pronounced. Two accents only are used : — (i.) The acute, to denote the syllable on which stress is laid. The use of this is very important, as the rounds of many names are entirely altered by the misplacement of this '* stress." (2.) The sign ^ over the letter U to denote the short sound of (hat vowel under certain circumstances. (See table.) 5. When two vowels come togethei-, each one is sounded, though the result, when spoken quickly, is .sometimes scarcely to be re?scd by douhliufj; the consonant that IJoTUiy.* i'ollt)ws. The sounds rel'eired to arc as | follows : — The ;-;hort a as in f(i*fer, as eoui[)ared with the long a as \n father. The short e as in better, as compared with the long e as \njafe. Th<' f'lort i u2 in siii/ier, as compared wi.h the long i as in ravine. 'J"l:e short o i\3 in sobbii/f/, as compared Avith the long o as in sof/cr. The short ii as in rubber, as compared with the long n !iS in riibrir. is the same short sound of h as is denotc(l ovt-r, wlicii it is som-cely to 1)0 distin^'uishccl I'roin ei/ in tlio Knglish the}/, or ci in cif/lif. Engli.sh h. is iilways soft, hut is .so nearly tho sound of a | Coluhes. that it should bo seldom iisod. It' Cclclx's were not already recognised it would lie written Sch'bcs. is nlwftys soft, as in r/wrr// - - - 1 Chingeliin. English (I. English /. Ph should not bo used Tor the sound of/. Thus, not Ilaiphon;/, but is always hard. (Soft .As in English. w J Sawakin. y is always a consonant, as in yard, and there- fore should never be used as a terminal, i or e being substituted. Kikuyu. Thus, not Mikifiddiii/ or Wady, but Mikindani, Wadi. not Kwaly, but Kwale. 7, English X - Zulu. zb French y, or as s in treasure - Accents should not generally ^o used, but Muzhdaha. where there is a very decided emphatic Tongatabu, syllable or stress which affects the sound Galapagos, of the word, it should be marked by an Palawan, acitie accent. Sarawak. In the case of native names in countries under the dominion of other European powers, in Avhose maps, charts, &c. the spelling is given according to the system adopted by that power, such orthography is, as a rule, disregarded, and the names are spelt uecordiug to the British system. Thus the island east of -Java in possession of the Dutch is spelt Madoera by them, but on Admiralty charts Madura. A town in .Java ap})ears on Dutch charts as Tjilatjap ; in the British, Chilachap. ^N ■■ IX INFOEMATIOxV RELATING TO OHARTS, SAILING DIRECTIONS, AND THE GENERAL NAVIGA^ TION OF H.M. SHIPS. ON THE CORRECTION OE CHARTS, LIGHT LISTS, AND SAILING DIRECTIONS. TiiBUE iire three (lescnpt'.on.-> of publications as guidoa to iiiivi'ections, however, cannot, from their nature, be so corrected, and in all cases where they differ from charts, the charts must be taken as the yuidc. 1. Charts. — When issued to a ship on commissioning, the charts have received all uwoessary corrections to date. As sent from the llydrographic Office thi^ are, as a rule, fresh from the plates. They then receive such corrections by hand in the depots as are rcquirtd, and are so issued to the ships. All small but important corrections that can be made by hand are notided by Notices to Mariners, and should at once be placed on the charts to which they refer. Large corrections that cannot be conveniently thus made are put upon the plates, and fi'csh copi(?s are issued to the ships to repla^io the others, which are directed to bo destroyed to prevent Iho possibility of their being used in the navigation of the ship. GENERAL NAVIGATION. The dates on which these large corrections are made arc noted on the chart plates in the middle of the lower edge; those of the smaller corrections at the left-hand lower corners. In all cases of quotations of charts, these dates of corrections should be given, as well as the number of the chart (which will be found in the lower right-hand corner), in order that at the Admiralty it may be known what edition of the chart is referred to. 2. The L'ujht Lists, annually published at the beginning of each year, are not corrected in tlie depots before issue, but appendices are issued oveiy two months, giving the alterations that have taken place, copies of which are put into the chart boxes. It is the duty of the navigating officer when he receives the .'^^t of charts to make notations in the light lists from these appendices, and from the Notices to Mariners in the box ; and to keep them so corrected from time to time. The Light Lists should always be consulted as to details of a light, as ihe description in the Sailing Directions may be obsolete, in consequence of changes made since publication. 3. The Sailing Directions are not corrected before issue, except occasionally for very important new rocks or dangers. Hydrographic Notices and Supplements referring to each volume are published from time to time. Supplements contain all the information received up to date since the publication of the volume to which they refer, and cancel all previous Hydrographic Notices. Hydrographic Notices contain rdl information up to date since the publication of the volume, or since the last Supplement or Hydrographic Notice, but endeavour is made to issue no more than one of these afiFecting each volume, and, on the collection of fresh information, to include the former Notice in a Supplement. The existence of Supplements or Hydrogra[)hic Notices is to be noted, in the tabulated form placed for the purpose inside the cover of each volume, in cases when such notations have not been made before issue, and also on receipt of furlhev Notices after commission. GENERAL NAVIGATION. XI Notes should be made in tlio nmrgin of the volume of sailing directions affected, as references to the Supplements or Hydrographic Notices when the latter are printed on both sides. To enable the books to be more conveniently corrected, however, such Supplements and Hydrographic Notices as are of moderate size are now being printed on one side only, and two copies are issued to each ship ; one to cut up, the slips being pasted in at the appropriate place ; the other to retain intact for reference. To make these notations or paste in these slips is one of the early duties of a navigating officer after drawing his box of charts and books, and similar notes are to bo made from Notices to Mariners that may thereafter be received. It must, however, bo tlioioughly understood that sailing directions will never be correct in all details, except up to the date of the last Hydrographic Notice or Supplement, and that, as already stated, when differences exist, the chart, which should be corrected from the most recent information, should be taken as the guide ; for which purpose, for ordinary navigation, they are sulHcient. THE L\SE OF CHARTS AS NAVIGATIONAL AIDS, AND GENERAL RE.AIARKS RELATING TO PRACTICAL NAVIGATION. 1. Accuracy/ of a Chart. — The value of a chart must manifestly depend upon the accuracy of the survey on which it is based, and this becomes more important the larger is the scale of the chart. To csti!iiate this, the date of the survey, Avhich is always given in tlie title, is a good guide. Besides the changes that, in waters where sand or mud prevails, may have taken place since the date of the survey, the earlier surveys were mostly made under circumstances that precluded groat accuracy of detail, and until a plan founilcarks, esp"cially when in exposed positions ; and a ship should always, when possible, be navigated by bearings or angles of fixed objects on shore and not by buoys. Gas Buoys. — The lights shown by gas buoys cannot be implicitly I'elied on, as if occulting the apparatus may get out of order, or the light may be altogether extinguished. 7. Lights. — Circles drawn on charts round a light are not intended to give information as to the distance at which it can be seen, but solely indicate, in the case of lights whicli do not show equally in all directions, the bearings between which the variation, or visibility, or obscuration of the light occurs. All the distances given in the Light Lists and on the charts for the visibility of lights are calculated for a height of an observer's eye of 15 feet. The table of distances visible due to height at end of each Light List, affords a means of ascertaining how much more or less the light is visible should the heiglit of the bridge be more or less. The glare of a powerful light is often seen far beyond the limit of visibility of the actual rays of the light, but this must aot be confounded with the true range. Again, mm XIV GENERAL NAVIGATION. refraction may often cause a light to be seen farther tlmu under ordinary circumstances. When looking out for a light at night, the fact is often forgotten that from aloft the range of vision is inut'h increased. By noting a star imme- diately over the light a very correct bearing may bo afterwards obtained from the standard compass. * The intrinsic power of a light should always bo considered when expecting to make it in thick weather. A weak light is easily obscured by haze, and no dependence can be placed on its being seen. The power of a light can be estimated by remarking its order, us given in the Light Lists, and in some cases by noting how much its visibility in clear weather falls short of the range due to the height at which it is placed. Thus, a light standing 200 feet above the sea, and only recorded as visible at 10 miles in clear weather, is manifestly of little brilliancy, as its height would permit it to be seen over 20 miles, if of any power. (See table in Light List above mentioned.) 8. J^og Siffuals. — Sound is conveyed in a very capricious way through the atmosphere. Ajiart from wind, large areas of silence have been found in difEerent directions and at different distances from the origin of a sound, even in clear weather. Therefore too much confidence should not be felt in hearing a fog signal. The apparatus, moreover, for sounding the signal often requires some time before it is in readiness to act. A fog often 'creeps imperceptibly towards the land, and is not observed by the people at a lighthouse until it is upon them ; whereas a ship may have been for many hours in it, and approaching the land. In such a case no signal may be sounded. When sound has to travel against the wind, it may bo thrown upwai'ds ; in such a case, a man aloft might hear it when it is inaudible on deck. Taken tsogether, these facts should induce the utmost caution in closinjr the land in fogs. The load is generally tlo only safe guide. 9. Tides and Tidal Strcamn. — In navigating coasts where the tidal range is considerable, caution is always necessary. It should be remem- bered that there are indraughts to all bays and bight.", although the gon( al run of the stream may be parallel to the shore. The turn of the tidal stream off shore is seldom coincident with the time of high and low water on the shore. In open channels, the tidal stream ordinarily overruns the turn of the vertical movement of tha tide by three hours, forming wl>at is usually known as tide and half-tide, the effect of X GENERAL NAVIGATION. XV which is that at high and low water by the shore the stream is running at its greatest velocity. In crossing a bar or sluiUow flats, the table (B) at page 98 of the Tide Taldes will bo found of great assistance in calculating how much the water has risen or fallen at any hour of the tide. On coasts where there is much diurnal inetiuality in the tides, the amount of rise and fall can never be depended upon, and additional caution is necessary. It should also be remeud)ered that at times the tide falls below the level of low-water ordinary springs. This always occurs on the coasts of Euroi)e at the equinoxes, but in other parts of the world, and especially in the tropics, such periodic low tides may coincide more frequently with the solstices. Wind or a high barometer may produce it at any time, and the amount varies with locality. When the moon's perigee coincides with the full or new moon the same effect is often produced. 10. Current Arrows on charts only show the most usual or the mean direction of a tidal stream or current. It must never be assumed that the direction of a stream v.ill not vary from that indicated by the arrow. In the same manner, the rate of a stream constantly variea with circumstances, and the rate given on the eliart is merely tlie mean of those found during the survey, possibly from very few observations. 11. Fixing Position. — The most accurate method of fixing a position relative to the shore is by angles between well-defined objects on the chart. A.11 ships are now being supplied with a station-pointer, and this method should be used whenever possible. Two things are, however, necessary to its successful employment. First, that the objects be well chosen ; and second, that the observer is skilful and rapid in his use of the sextant. For the former, reference can be had to the pamphlet on the use of the station-pointer, which is in every chart box. The latter is only to be obtained by practice. It will readily be seen that in war time, when the compass may be knocked away, or rifle-fire may make it undesirable to expos^ the person more than necessary, a sextant offers great advantages, as angles can be obtained from any positioti whence the objects are visible. It is this contingency that makes it especially desirable that all navigating officers should become expert in this method of fixing a ship's position. XVI GENEUAJ. NAVIGATION. In luiiny iiiurow watei's also, where the objects may yet be lit Home distance, as in coral harbours or narrow passages among mud bunks, navigation by sextant and 8tation-i)oiuter is invaluable, as a true position can only be obtained by its means. A small error in either taking or plotting a bearing under such circii instances may put the sliip ashore. It is not intended that the use ol' the compass to fix the ship should be given up ; there are many circumstances in which it maybe usefully employed, but errors more readily creep into a position so fixed. In all cases whore great accuracy of position is desired, angles should invariably be used, such as the fixing of a rock or shoal, or of additions to a chart, as fresh soundings or new buildings. In all such cases angles should be taken to several objects, the more the bettor ; but five objects is a "-ooil number, as the four angles thus obtained not only prevent any errors, but they at once furnish a means of checking the accuracy of the chart itself. In the case of ordinary soundings, it is only necessary to take a third angle now and then ; firstly, to check the general accuracy of the chart as above stated ; secondly, to make certain that the more important soundings, as at the end of a line, are correctly placed. Sometimes, when only two objects are visible, a compass bearing and sextant angle may be used with advantage. In passing near a point of land, or an island, the method of fixing by doubling the angle on the bow is invaluable. The ordinary form of it, the so-called " four-point bearing," when the bearing is taken four point,^ on the bow, and on the beam, the distance from the object at the latter position being the distance run between the times of taking the two bearings, gives an excellent fix for a departure, but does not en?nrc safety, as the point, and probably the rocks off it, are abeam before the position is obtained. By taking the bearings of two points and four points on the bow, a very good position is obtaineil before the object ia passed ; the distance of the latter at tlie second position being, as before, equal to the distance run in the interval, allowing for current. A table of factors, by which to mulliidy the distance run, to obtain the distance of the object when any number of degrees between the two bearings has been observed, is now supplied in all chart boxes. The use of a danger angle in passing outlying rocks with land behind should also not be forgotten. In employing this method, however, caution is necessary, as should the chart be not accurate, i.e., should the GENERAL NAVIOATTON. XVll objects selected be not quite correctly placed, the angle taken off from it may not serve the purpose. It should not, therefore, bo employed when the !2'' to 4S^ Tho inciiii ttrn|H>riil»n' of tho Hea was 4' lower than tli<' nieiin toinpemtiirc of the iitinoHpheru at port Simpson during thwHc periods, but iit M'thih (^ltIilh iind Nsihh luy it waH 8° lower than the iitmospiiero, probaljly due to tho iiilliu'nce of the coUl water from the rivers which flow into thoso biiyn. The navigator Vancouver in hin voyages (171K)-r)) describes as follows : "In Portland canal the snn's rays in August, between ',» a.m. and 3 p.m., are very powerful, and, reflected from the snow, caused occasionally intense heat. When the sun is obscured by the mountains, the atmosphere at once convey a sensation of chilliness. During that month, just before sunrise, the thermometer often registers 32° Fahrenheit, water left in basins within a tent being frozen during the night. The vapour developed by the heat of the sun during the early portion of the day, becoming condensed on the mountainous shores of the inlet, usually falls as a drizzling rain from 3 p.m. to about midnight." The climate of Queen Charlotte islands and the olf-lying islanils of the coast of British Columbia is inlluenced by the warm body of water which washes their shores, the winter is less severe and the climate is milder on the islands than within the inlets. The vapour arising from this body of warm water is condensed upon the high mountains which form the shores of the mainland, and falls in drizzling almost constant rain so prevalent in these waters. Ice. — Fraser river is, as a rule, frozen over at New Westminster, from January to early in March, during which time sleighs run to Langley. The lakes in the vicinity are frozen over, and ice forms at the head of the several inlets where the water is com- paratively fresh, but on the coast it does not form sufficiently thick to impede navigation. Within the inlets on the coast, north of Vancouver island, ice is formed during the winter of from 8 to 12 inches in thickness, and occasionally extends as far as 25 miles from the heads of the inlets. Skeena and Nass rivers are frozen over during the winter, the former as far as six miles below port Essington, and the latter, in severe weather, down to its mouth. Rainfall. — The average annual rainfall appears to be about .55 inches ; heavy rains generally occur in December and January. Chap. I.] ICR.— POOS. Meteorological tables t<>r placfH ueur thu Heaboanl of British Columbiu will he found at pages r)')()-552. FOGS.—Juan de Fuca strait.— Alt hon^rh fops in this region an- ii(»t ol Hiich frt'(iuent occiin'once ,i8 on the neighbouring coast ol C'nlifomia (where they prevail almost uninterruptedly during summer, and as late as the middle of October), yet from August to X«tvember they occur in Juiiu de Fuca strait, and are scunetimes very dense over the entnvnce for several days together. They are generally accompanied by calms or very light winds from north- west, which renders thorn the more dangerous to sailing- vessels closing the land. Fog: on the coast north of Vancouver island.— Fogs are prevalent especially during the summer months. The north-west winds which prevail during that season, condense the vapour which arises from the comparatively warm water surrounding Queen Charlotte islands and the coast of Alaska. During the prevalence of north-west winds this vapour is dispersed, but during calms or with light winds, and especially with south-westerly winds succeeding north-west winds, it approaches quickly from seaward in the form of dense fog, or drizzling mist and rain. At times fog will be found at the entrances to the sounds during the forenoon, dispersing near noon by the heat of the sun, the afternoons becoming clear and fine. Smokes from forest fires cause much inconvenience during the dry season, and are a great impediment to navigation. In some seasons they have extended from Georgia strait to Portland inlet. FOG SIGNALS. — Caution.— Sound is conveyed in a very capricious way through the atmosphere. Apart from the wind, large ai'eas of silence have been found in different directions and at different distances from the origin of the sound, even in clear weather. Therefore, too much confidence should not be felt in hearing a fog signal. The apparatus, moreover, for sounding the signal often requires some time before it is in readiness to act. A fog often creeps imperceptibly towards the land, and is not observed by the people at a lighthouse until it is upon them ; whereas, a ship may have been for many hours in it, and approaching the land. In such a case no signal may be sounded. When sound has to travel against the wind, it may be thrown upwards ; iu such a case a man aloft might hear it when it is inaudible on deck. ■yr 8 BRITISH COLUMBIA. [Chap. T. WINDS.— Juan de Fuca strait.— Within Juan de Fuca strait, m the winter «eii8on, the winds usually assume its direction either up or down. During summer, the prevailing winds from N.W. or S.W. take a direction up the strait ; while the S.E. gales of winter blow fairly out. Although a westerly wind may be blowing within the strait, it frequently during the change of the seasons blows heavily outside at the same time from S.S.W., or sometimes suddenly changes to that direction from a light easterly wind on opening the entrance, which makes that part of the coast of Vancouver island (between port San Juan and Bonilla point) a dangerous lee-shore to a ship without steam power. The coast winds in summer prevail from S.W. and N.W., the former during the early months, and the latter blowing fresh and with great regularity during June, July and August. In September and the early part of October the winds are very uncertain and there is generally a great deal of calm, gloomy weather. The barometer usually stands above 3000 inches during summer ; should it fall to 29"00 a south-easterly wind with thick rainy weather may be expected, but of short duration, and clearing up witli a westerly wind as soon as the barometer rises. The winter winds are S.E. or S.W., more frequently the former ; the}'' set in towards the end of October, and continue urtU the middle of April. S.E. gales are generally preceded by a short interval of calm, cloudy weather ; they spring up gradually from East or E.S.E. veering to the southward, accompanied by rain and thick weather, the barometer falling rapidly ; when the barometer becomes stationary the wind shifts suddenly to S.W. and bloAvs heavily with clear weather, but with frequent squalls of rain ; the barometer begins to rise immediately the wind veers to S.W., from which quarter it generally blows from 12 to 20 hours. The violence and duration of these S.E. gales is always proportioned to the fall of the mercury ; with the barometer at 29*50 a strong gale may be looked for from this quarter ; it seldom falls below 20"20, when very bad weather is certain to follow. On two or three occasions in as many years it has been known to fall to 28*00, and has been followed by S.E. gales of grcai violence. A S.E. gale sometimes springs up, though very seldom, with the barometer above 30*00 inches. On such occasions the wind has always been preceded by calm, cloudy weather and rain, with a high / Chap. I.] WINDS. to le 18 but falling barometer ; such gales are not violent and are of short duration. S.E. gales are always accompanied by thick dirty weather, and rain ; but they seldom continue from that (piarter for more than 12 or 18 hours, unless the barometer falls very low, and thoy almost always shift to S.W. When the S.W. gale of winter is not preceded by one from S.E., the barometer seldom falls ; it either remains stationary, when the gale may be expected to continue longer, or rises slowly, when it will gradually subside and fine weather follow. S.W. gales are accompanied by heavy banks of clouds, with passing showers of rain, and sometimes snow. The barometer has been known to fall during winter as low as 20"4o, and has been followed by no gale or bail weather, but on such occasions there has been a heavy fall of snow on the hills, and a sudden fall of 15° in the temperature. A fine northerly or N.E. wind frequently occurs at intervals during the months of December, January, and February ; it is always accompanied by a high barometer (above 30"0), and at such times a continuance for several days together of clear, cold, frosty weather may be looked for ; the barometer on these occasions will sometimes rise as high as 80'70, and thr ine weather will then probably last a fortnight or more. Winds In tlie strait of Georgia.— The prevailing summer wind in the strait of Georgia is from N.W., or the same as on the outside coast, and between May and September it blows strong and steady, commencing about 9 a.m. and dying away towards sunset. These winds do not generallj' extend much below Roberts point, among the Haro archipelago they become variable and baffling, while in the main channels of Kosario and Haro the westerly wind entering the strait of Fuca is deflected to S.W., and vessels running up these channels with a fair wind almost always find it ahead on entering the strait of Georgia. During winter there is a good deal of moderate, calm, and gloomy weather, but gales from S.E. and S.W. are frequent. Winds on the coast north of Vancouver island.— The prevailing winds during the summer on the coast northward of Vancouver island are from the north-west, preceded during the earlier summer months by south-westerly winds. 10 BRITISH COLUMBIA. [Chap. I. Dnrinj? tho wintor months S.E. and S.W. ^vind8 prevail. (liik'S from the S.E. prevail at all seuHons, ami are more frequent anil severe than those exjierienced m the coast of Vancouver island. Tlie summer j^ales art of shorter dnration than those of winter, and seldom last more than 4S hours. At the fall of the year, gales from the S.E., lasting for S days, have been experienced. Thf strength of the summer winds depends greatly upon local circumstances. Down the channels, which lie in a N.W. and S.E. direction, with high land on both shores, they frequently blow with great strength. The wind usiially begins at sunrise, increases in strength throughout the day until about 3 p.m., and then gradually declines towards sunset. The nights, as a rule, are calm during the summer months ; but, if the wind prevail but slightly i'om the N.W. during the night, it will probably blow hard from that quarter on th ^ following day. The barometer stands at about 3G'10 during the prevalence of N.W. winds. Gales from the south-east are usually preceded by a falling barometer, but not invariably. A sensatio;- <>i 'copness in the atmosphere is the usual precursor, and the )>»•;;.!,. , the wet and dry bulbs, though as a rule not differing greatly upcu this coast, more closely approximate each other. If during the summer the barometer fall one-tenth of an inch, especially if it has been standing at higher than 30*20, a gale from the south-east is probable. These gales usually begin at E.S.E., veering to the southward with a falling barometer ; tho wind remaining at S.E. and S.S.E. for a long or short period according to the season of the year. With a rising barometer tho wind shifts to the S.W. with violent squalls, and then hauling more westerly blows itself cut. A strong S.l'^ gale, of short duration, has been experienced, during the summ ;r, with the barometer previously registering 30'17 and t> lii:-: to 30-12. "Winds in Queen Charlotte islands.— South-east v/inds are prevalent, and are almost invariably accompanied with thick, rainy weather ; those from the opposite quarter generally bring tine weather. The weather is uncertain, and cannot be depended on for 24 hours at a time. The heaviest rainfall is local, taking place on the wesiPrn mountains of Queen Charlotte islands. It may often be noted K.at while heavy rain is falling on tlie mountains the sky iscomparBtUi'^t Chap. 1.] WINDS.— CURRENTS. 11 with for a '^ith a liialls, S.K, iTD :r, liiiC are •ainy tine for liern IK .at 'I, ck^iir ovof the strait to the eastward, b'ruiii this circuiustance the north-east part of Graham island is not subject to a heavy rainfall. Snow occasionally falls in winter. CURRENTS. — A south-easterly ciirrenl has been found to prevail on the western coast of Vancouver island more or less throughout the year, particularly from August to November, pro- bably in some measure caused by the N.W. winds which blow almost constantly on the coast during the summer. This current joining the ebb stream out of Fuca stiwit has been known to set vessels between 1 and 5 miles an hour to the south-eastward, and during fogs there is great risk of being drifted on to cape Flattery, or some of its off-lying dangers ; extreme caution should, therefore^ be observed when entering the strait at such times, especiallj' near the full and change of the moon when the tidal streams are at their strongest. With winds from the south-eastward in the offing, however, this southerly set has been checked, and near the coast a set to the north- ward experienced. In July, 187)^, II. M.S. liepiilst' experienced a northerly set of one knot an hour and S.E. winds, at IJOU miles from cape Flattery. H.M.S. Heroine in 1883 also experienced a current setting in the same direction. Waterlogged vessels, laden with red wood fi-om (\diforni;i, have frequently been found stranded on the bi'acli between Barclay sound and Clayoquot sound. In January 187-4, a life buoy was lost GO miles S.W. of capo Flattery, and in February of the same year, about six weeks later, the same life buoy was picked up on Masset beach, Queen Charlotte islands. In 1875, the steamer Pacific was sunk in collision about 30 miles S.S.W. of cape Flattery, and a great deal of the wreckage was foimd in the neighbourhooil of Barclay sound, while some of the bodies were picked up near Beacon hill, Victoria. The currents are aflCocted by the direction and force of the winds, and, as in winter, tiie prevailing wind is S.E. to S.W., the tendency is to produce a northerly set or current. H.M.S. Pheamnl (18;U) exi)erienced a N.W. set when returning to Esquimau from the Bering sea. It is reported by local pilots '■ that a current to N.W. is steady and well defined on the western coast of Washington and Van- couver island, and inside the current setting to the S.E. along the coast. 12 BRITISH COLUMBIA. [Chap. I. TIDES. — On the coasts and in the channels of British Columbia there are usually two unequal tides in the lunar day ; the inter- mediate tide being generally of very small range in comparison with the larger tide ; and sometimes disappearing altogether, then making only one tide in the lunar day. The intermediate tide is sometimes nearly as high as the larger tide, with a fall of less than one fjot between ; .sometimes as low as the larger tide, with only a smrdl rise between ; and again occurs midway between the higher high water or the lower low water ; its general effect, thus being an apparent stand in the level of the sea surface for about 8 hours before or after high or low water, or midway between them. The range of the tide is much affected by the moon's declination and parallax ; the position for producing the greatest range being soon after the moon has passed its extreme north or south declination, and is at the same time near its greatest parallax ; and for producing (it 'oa''t range, soon after it has passed the equator, and is at the sui le near its lowest parallax ; the general effect being that tides - the greatest range do not necessarily occur at a regular interval after new or full moon, but rather when the moon is in a favorable position with regard to its parallax and declination as given above. On the western side of Vancouver island the tides are regular ; flood and ebb of six hours duration, the times of high water on the full and change at Nootka sound, and at the entrance of Goletas channel, varying very little, and occurring near noon, the greatest range 13 feet. TIDAL STREAMS.— The flood stream seta to the northward along the outer coast of the continent and Vancouver island. It enters Juan de Fuca strait at cape Flattery, running with con- siderable velocity, sometimes 3 or 4 knots, over Duncan and Duntze rocks ; it then turns sharply into the strait, passing through the various channels among the Haro archipelago into the strait of Georgia, and between cape Mudge and cape Lazo at a distance of from .5 to 20 miles from the former. According to the phase of the moon and the state of the wind, it is met by a flood stream from the northward, which, sweeping the western coast of Vancouver island, enters Goletas channel and Queen Charlotte sound at its northern extreme, in lat. 51° N., thence southerly down the narrow waters of Johnstone strait and Discovery passage, Chap. I.] TIDRH AND TIDAL STREAMS. 13 meeting the stream which enters by Juan ele Fuca strait, and reaches abont midway between the northern and southern extremes of Vancouver island, or close to the spot where the broad expanse of the strait of Georgia merges into the narrow channels adjoining it. At ca])e Flattery the west-going stream commences to run strongly about 2 hours after high water, full and change ; and continues for about G hours. There is no marked irregularity observable in Johnstone strait and Discovery passage, except the not unusual circumstance that the ebb stream continues to run to the northward for 2 hours afte.- it is low water by the shore, the water rising at the same time ; the ebb stream being of 7 hours duration, the flood about 5 hours. For tides in Seymour narrows, see page 250. The ebb stream has always been found to run southward through the Haro archipelago, and out of Fuca strait for 2.^ hours after it is low water by the shore, the water rising during that time ; the ebb is stronger than the flood, and generally two hours longer duration. Tidal streams in Strait of Georgia.— The tidal streams, although not nearly so strong as among the Haro archipelago, yet run with considerable strength, as much as 3 knots, particularly during the freshets of summer, when Fraser river discharges an immense volume of fresh water, which takes a southerly direction over the banks, and almost straight for the mouth of Active pass. The peculiar milk-coloured water is frequently carried quite across the strait, and is sometimes seen in the inner channels washing the shores of Vancouver island ; at other times it reaches the centre of the channel only, forming a remarkable and most striking contrast with the deep blue waters of the strait of Georgia. Tidal streams in Hecate strait.— In Hecate strait the flood stream comes from the southward. In Dixon entrance, the flood coming from the westward round North island, sets along the Masset shore, across Hecate strait for Brown passage, spreading for about 15 miles round Rose point towards cape Ibbetson (Edye passage), where it meets the flood from the southward ; consequently between Rose point, cape Ball, cape Ibbetson, and thence south-east 15 or 20 miles, the streams are irregular. The '"^^^rse and rate of the tidal streams are greatly influenced by the winds. At full and change they run with great strength. Tim© of high water over the strait generally is about Oh. 30m. 14 BRITISH COLUMBIA. [Chap. I. Bttween cape Murray, Percy point, and Zayas island the streams are strongest and most irniguhir, causing a heavy and confused sea, so much so, that in l)ad weather it has the appearance of breakers. CANADIAN UNIFORM SYSTEM OF BUOYAGE.— Throughout the ports of British Columbia all buoys on the star- board side of the channel, entering from seaward, are painted red, and, if numbered, marked with even numbers, and must be left on the starboard hand when passing in. All buoys on the port side, entering from seaward are painted black, with odd numbers, if any, and must be left on the port hand when passing in. Buoys painted with red and black horizontal bands will be found on obstructions or middle grounds, and may be left on either hand. Buoys painted with white and black vertical stripes will be found in mid-channel, and must be passed close-to, to avoid danger. All other distinguishing marks to buoys are in addition to the foregoing, and indicate particular spots ; a detailed description of which is given when the mark is first established. Perches with balls, cages, &c., will, when placed on buoys, be at turning points, the colour and number indicating on which side they are to be passed. Spar buoys will in some cases be surmounted by a ball, which will invariably be painted red, and will indicate that it is a starboard buoy, and must be left on the starboard or right hand when entering a channel or harbour. The rule for colouring buoys is equally applicable to beacons, sjandles, and o*^^her day marks, so far as it may be practicable to carry it out. In British Columbian waters the buoys are not withdrawn in winter. UNITED STATES UNIFORM SYSTEM OF BUOYAGE. — As a part of the United States is described in this work, it is mentioned that : the following uniform system of buoyage has been adopted for the coasts and harbours of the United States : — Approaching from seaward — all buoys on the starboard side of a channel are painted red, and if numbered, marked with even numbers, and should be left on the starboard hand. Approaching from seaward — all buoys on the port side of a channel are painted black, with odd numbers, and should be left on the port hand. (vhap. I.] UNIFORM BUOYAGE.— STORM SIGNALS. 15 ? Bnoys painted red and black, in horizontal stripes, mark obstruc- , tions, or middle grounds, and may be left on either hand. Buoys i)ainte(l white and black, in vertical stripes, mark mid- channel, and should be passed close to, to avoid danger. All other distinguishing marks to buoys are in addition to the I foregoing, and indicate particular spots ; a description of which is as follows : — I Perches, with balls, cages, &c., will, when placed on buoys, be at I turning points, the colour and number indicating on which hand they should be left. i Different channels in the same bay, sound, river, or harbour will be marked, as far as practicable, by different descriptions of buoys. I Principal channels will l)e marked by nun buoys ; secondary j channels by can l)uoys ; and minor channels bv spar buoys. I Where there in only one channel, nun buoys, properb coloured and numbered, are usually placed on the starboard side, and can buoys on the \)ort side of the channel. The rule for colouring buoys is applicable to beacons, and other day-marks, marking the sides of channels. In other j)laces, beacons i and day-marks will be constructed with special reference t*, the I background before which they are seen. UNITED STATES STORM SIGNALS. — A storm Sigmal. — A red flag (8 feet square) with black centre Q\ feet square) indicates that the storm is expected to be of marked violence. A red pennant (') feet hoist and 12 feet fly) displayed with the flags indicates easterly winds ; that is, from north-east to south, inclusive, and that the storm centre is approaching. If the pennant is above the storm signal, winds from the north-east quadrant are expected ; and if below, winds from south-east quadrant. A white pennant (5 feet hoist and 12 feet fly) indicates westerly winds ; that is, from north to south-west, inclusive, and that the storm centre has passed. If the pennant is above the storm signal, winds from north-west quadrant are expected ; and if below, winds from south-west quadrant. The information signal consists of a red pennant, and indicates that the displayman haa received information of a storm •• , covering a limited area, dangerous only for vessels about to sail to 16 BRITISH COLUMBIA. [Chap. I. certain points. The signal will serve as a notification to ship- masters that important information will be given tliem upon appli- cation to the displayman. No night signals are displayed on the Pacific coast, KELP will be seen on the surface of the water, growing on nearly every danger with a bottom of rock or stones, during the summer and autumn months ; but during the winter and spring this useful marine plant is not always to be seen. It should be an invariable rule never to pass through kelp. In general, by keeping clear of kelp you keep clear of danger, but this must not prevent attention to the lead, as the rule sometimes fails ; kelp is always a sign of danger, and unless the spot where it grows has been carefully sounded, it is not safe for a ship to pass over it. A heavy surge will occasionally tear the kelp away from rocks ; and a moderate stream will ride it under water, when it will not be seen. When passing on the side of a patch of kelp, from which the stems stream away with the current, care should be taken to give it a wide berth, because* the kelp showing with a strong tide is on one side of and not over the rocks. The least water will usually be found in a clear spot in the middle of a thick patch of fixed kelp. It is perhaps well to point out that kelp not attached to rock floats on the water in heaps, whereas kelp attached to rocka streams away level with the surface, whilst the leaves give an occasional flap. INNER PASSAGES. CAUTION. — When navigating the inner waters of British Columbia, it should be constantly borne in mind that many of the main channels and most of the minor passages have only been roughly examined ; detached boulders from the broken shores, and pinnacles of rock are still frequently found. Whenever, there- fore, a broad and clear channel is known to exist, there is no justification in using, without necessity, one of more doubtful character, even if there be some saving in distance ; and a ship should always be maintained in the safest possible position in a channel, as well as when going in or out of port. VICTORIA to BURRARD INLET.— The best route from Victoria to Burrard inlet is south of Trial and Discovery islands, I i Chap. T.J KELP.— PASSAGES. 17 tlirongli the main channel of Haro strait, and northwanl of Stuart and Waldron JHhuids into the .strait of Georgia. Only thobe with good local knowledge should attempt to navigate the inner channels. VICTORIA to ALASKA.— From Victoria or Tuget sound it is usual for vessels to ]tass through Haro str.iit and enter the strait of Georgia, eastward of Saturna island, or through Active pass (for steam-vessels). »SVr Caution, on page 1(). Strait of Georgia to Queen Charlotte sound.— Steamers to Alaska usually coal at Departure bay or Nanaimo ; it is usual to pass southward of Ballinac islands, and also the Sisters, from whence a course is shaped for Discovery passage, the only navigable channel from the gulf of Georgia to the north-west ; vessels may have to wait for slack tide in Seymour narrows, for which Menzies bay to th(; southward of the narrows, and Plumper bay to the northward, will l)e found convenient anchorages.* Proceed mid-channel through Johnstone passage ; there is a clear channel both northward and southward of Helmcken island ; the latter, named Hace channel, is that generally used. When navigating Broughton strait do not pass more than 2 cables southward of Cormorant island to clear Nimpkish bank, and the south-western coast of Haddington island should be rounded within half a mile to avoid the reef off Ledge point, and care should be taken when rounding Pulteney i)oint, the west extreme of Malcolm island, off which foul ground extends more than one mile. From Broughton sound to Queen Charlotte sound either Goletas or New channel may be selected. From Queen Charlotte sound to Dixon entrance the route usually adopted in steam-ships is by way of Fitzhugh sound, Lama passage, Seaforth channel, Milbank sound, Finlayson and Grenville channels, and Chatham sound. The passage to Fitzhugh sound is between the dangerous Sea Otter group on the west and the rocks off the entrance to Smith sound, about lat. T)!*^ 20' N. Those from the westward enter by North passage between Sea Otter group and Calvert island. Westerly gales send in a heavy swell, and dense fogs are of frequent occurrence in this vicinity, that too great care cannot be taken in the navigation.! Fitzhugh sound is about 40 miles long, averages about 3 miles wide, and has deep water. When passing from Seaforth channel to so 11948 • See chart, No. 1,917. t See charte, Nos. 1,923a and b. B 18 BIITTISTI f'OLTTMIUA. [Chap. r. Milbank sound it is usual to pasH three-quarters of a mile northward of White rocks. Finlayson channel is about 24 miles long, 2 miles wide, and has deep water ; Hiekish narrows are 2h caliles wide in the narrowest part. When nearing Hewitt rock keep the northern shore aboard. Grenville channel is reueliid through Campania sourd, l)y Squally or Whale channel, lat. fh\° 20' N. Except when bound up Skeena river the passage south of Gibson channel island is preferable, thence by Arthur passage to Chatham sound and to Dixon entrance and Port Simpson. Dixon entrance to Cross sound.— The main channels at present used, and touching at the various points of the Alaska territory, are by the inland passages, as follows : — Touching first at Tongass the route then follows the Kevillagigedo channel, through Tongass narrows to Clarence strait, and by Silklne strait to Port Wrangell, making detours to visit Port Chester and the various fishing stations. From Port Wrangell the route continues through Wrangell strait (which, with local knowledge, is navigable by vessels drawing 10 feet at lf)w water, it Is well buoyed, but the navigation is dltllcult), through Frederick sound and Stei)hens passage to .Juneau and Douglas, in Gastineau channel ; t hence again by Stephens passage to the west end of Douglas island ; if bound to the head of Lynn canal pass up Favorite channel.* If bound to Sitka pass through Saginaw channel, dowii Chatham strait, and by Peril strait (the latter (»n no account without a pilot). Vessels sometimes pass out by Summer strait, round caj)e Decision (hit. 5G° 0' N.), and up Chatham strait, or continue outside ilirectly to Sitka, or other outside ports. OCEAN PASSAGES. VANCOUVER and YOKOHAMA.— Full-powered steam- vessels. — The tracks reconnnended are as follows : — From Vancouver to Yokohama, during summer months ; from Juan de Fuca strait steer to cross the meridian of 140' W. in lat. 51'^ N., keeping on that parallel to the 170th meridian, thence steering to cross 160° E. in lat. 48'^ N., Iftir E. in lat. 4,'JV' N., and to make the coast of Japan at Kinkuwasan light in about lat. 38*^ 20' X. During winter months the same track to the IdOth meridian east, thence steering to cross l.W E. in lat. 44i"N., passing about 50 miles ■ ■ ; 6ktf chart, No. 2,431, Chap. I.] PAHftAGEft. 19 the south-eastwanl of Shikotan (Skotan), and to make the coast of Japan as before at Kinkuwasan light. Tht'Hi' routes are UHually northward of the westerly winds, and in tiie track of the cold westerly current throuf,'hout. From Yokohama to Vancouver, at all seasons, cross the meridian of ]r)(F K. in lat. JO' N., U'Ar ]<]. in 4li N., 17(1'^ K. in 47^" N., and the l.SOth meridian in lat. ID ' N. ; thence keeping on that parallel to 140" W., and from there steering for the entrance of Juan de Fuca strait. This route is usually in a warm easterly current throughout. VANCOUVER to VALPARAISO. — Full-powered steam routes. — Direct. Distances : — From P]squimalt to Callao, 4,750 miles; to Valparaiso, ;>,1)J0 miles. From San FmnciBCO to Callao, IV-'iU) miles ; to Valparaiso, 5,1. 'iO miles. Sail or auxiliary steam.— In winter S.E. and S.W. winds prevail on the coast of California as far south as about lat. 2.')" N. and those bound from Vancouver island to Valparaiso at that season should stand down the coast, keeping at about 100 miles from it until near the latitude of San Fnmcisco, and thence gradually edge to the westward so as to pass westward of and in sight of Guadalupe island, where in all probability the north-east trade wind will be met with ; then steer to sight Clipperton island, passing westward of it ; and in about this latitude the north-east trade wind will be lost. If steam power is available the belt of variable winds and calms, which at this season on the nn^ridian of 120° is 250 to JJSO miles wide, should be crossed on a southerly course so as to pick up the northern edge of the south-east trade winds in about long. 110° W. (well to windward) ; but if depending on sail alone a vessel will probably not be able to cross the ecjuator much to windward of long. 118° W., and every effort should bo made not to cross further than that to the westward, as the result would be that the vessel would not weather Elizabeth or Pitcairn islands, in the vicinity of which light baffling winds from South to S.E. would be experienced. The S.E. trade wind at :i!s time of the year will in all probability be met with between lat. .5° N. and 3° N. Th(^ higher latitude during the early winter months (November and December), and the lower latitude towards March, when the ship should be kept full, making, as nearly as the wind will permit, a due South (true) course. SO 11948 &>' chart, No. 2,6S3. B2 20 nniTTSTI rOLUMRTA. [Chill). T. In about lat. 6" S. th«> tradw wind f^encrully becomes more c .ly in direction, Hometimes hauling uh far round as K. by N. Cross the 2()th ]r.ir.i\M (S.) in long. 120" or 121° W. in order to pass well to windward of Ducie island, and standing to the south-east cross the meridian of f^aster island in about lat. XV S. and the lOOth meridian in lat. 'M\" S. (^alnis and variable winds will be experienced in the vicinity of the liOth parallel settling into the north-west quarter as the vessel getci more to the southward, and on this account the l(M)th meridian should never be crossed n<^rthward of lat. ;U')° S. The 4()th parallel should be reached before making easting, thence steer to pass southward of Juan Fernandez and on to Val)):iraiso. In November 1872, H.M.S. Sri///fi went to the paralhd of 41° S. before making easting, accomplishing a gocnl passage of 4(t days. Ill SUminer. — In summer a course further west may be pursued, passing the latitude of San Francisco in about l.^tyw. Tlu-nce a sailing-vessel should be kept further from the land to avoid the calms and light variable winds experienced at this season along the coast of lower California and in the bay of Panama. After meeting the north-east trade wind in about lat. iiO" N. stand to the southward, making a south (true) course on the meridian of 12.")° W. not only to avoid the calms above mentioned, but also the hurricanes which during August and September are liable to be m' with eastAvard of that meridian. Occasionally, but rarely, these is are met with west of long. 125° W. The north-east trade wind will be lost at this season in lat. 11° or 12° N., and the belt of doldrums will be foxmd to be not so wide as during the winter months. The southeast trade wind will at this season be met with in about lat. " W., and soon after crossing, the wind will haul more to the eastward, when stand to the southward to weather Ducie island, and reach the 4()th parallel before making easting, so is to fall in with the north- westerly winds, as calms and variable Avinds are met Avith north of that parallel. After passing the meridian of 90° W. haid up for Juan Fernandez and thence for Valparaiso . VALPARAISO to VANCOUVEI; —Full-powered steam routes.— Direct. See chart, No. 2,683. Chii|>. I.] PAHSACiKS. 21 Sail aud auxiliary steam.— The luwt route to pnrHue '.vh»'n milking this voyage is the hhiuo at all tiiiioH of tlu* year. Leaving Valpjiraiw) stand to the north-west wanl pawHing to the eurttwunl of St. l-'elix, and croHsing the 17th parallel in long. lUr W. After falling in with the Bouth-eaHt trade wind Bteer to crosB the equator in al tout 118" W. After falling in with the north-east trade wind Bteer to ctosh the :20th jtarallel in long. i:i7 W. and the 'MHh parallel in long. 14(PW. Thence edge away to the eastward, cntSHing the ■10th parallel in long. I'.W W., and make for lat. 17 N., long. 130" W., before steering direct for Juan de Fuca strait, (Distance by this route 7,:ir)0 miles.). In May autl June the north-east trade wind is often very weak north of the 20th parallel, and frequently a belt of calm exists between the 20th and 30th parallels. PANAMA to VANCOUVER ISLAND.-Steam routes- Direct. Along the Californian coast and to the northward, steamers shoidd follow the coast from point to point, as nearly as possible, always keeping within 15 miles of the land. By this means the strong north-weLi wind will freipiently be avoided, as calms will often be found close in with the shore when there is a wind to seaward Auxiliary steam. — Vessels with auxiliary steam power bound from Panama to Vancouver island should stretch oil' on a W. by N. (true) course (or, until the parallel of 12' N. is gained, a little more northerly), passing the meridian of Acapuico in about lat. Hi" N. The eastern limit of the north-east trade wind is uncertain, but it will generally be met with in about long. lOli" W., /.<'., at about 300 miles from the land. When first falling in with it the W. by N. course should be maintained, as by steering more to the northward the trade wind will be found to hang to the north and north-west. The meridian of 110" W. should be crossed in lat. 14" N., after which steer to cross the 130th meridian in about lat. 30" N., when steer northward as far as lat. 40" N., or until the westerly winds are reached, and thence gi-adually edge away for the port. Sailing^. — A vessel unaided by steam i)ower will experience considerable difficulty and delay in getting out of the bay ui Panama, owing to the light baffling winds and calms which are met with there at all seasons. Between October and April the prevailing wind in the gulf is from the northward ; for the remainder of the .Sir ohart, No. 2,683. i 00 BRITISH COLUMBIA. LChap. I. 1 ' year the wind hangs more to the westward, and huiil and sea breezes are felt varied by cahns and occasional 8(iualls from south-west. Northward of lat. r)° N., between the 8OH1 and llOth meridians, is a region of calms and light winds varied by sq\ialls of wind atid rain ; but southward of hvt. 5° N., between the coast of the mainland and tlie Crahipagos ishmds, Avest of the meridian of 80' W.. tlie wind is between Houtli and West all the year round, anil, except between the months of February and June, is fairly strong. A vessel should, therefore, at all -.easons make the best of her way to the southward, keeping as nearly as possible on the meridian of m' W. until lat. T)^ N. is reached, wlien, if the wind will allow, make a south-west course. Should the wind \ni westward of S.W. stand to the southward, but if soutiiward of S.W. stand to the westward, and should the wind be light and variable with rain make every endeavour to get to the southward. When lat. 2' N. is reached, a vessel may, between June and .January, stand to the westward carrying S.W. winds as far as 85° W., after which the wind will haul to the southward and south-eastward settling into the south-east trade wind. Pass northward of the Galapngos islands, keejjing on the parallel of 2*^' N. until the meriuian of lU;") W. is reached, when edge away to pass westward of Clii)perton islaiul, in the neighbourhood of which the north-east trade wind will be met with, when stand to the north-west to cross the parallel of 20^ N. in long. 120" W., after which pursue the same course as if bound from Valparaiso. {See page 20.) Between January and April, however, it is better to cross the equator between the Galai)agos islands and the mainland before standing to the westward. Southward of lat. 1^ N. the wind will be found to haid to the eastward as the vessel leaves the coast. At this season ves.sels should keej) to the southward of the equator until westward of long. 10.')" W., when proceed as before directed. VANCOUVER to PANAMA. -Full-powered steam.- Direct. Sailing". — Sailing vessels making this passage between the months of December and May, inclusive, when the prevailing winds on the west coast of Mexico are from the northward, and the current favourable, should stand down the coast of California, keeping about 100 miles otF, and at about ir)0 miles off the coast of Mexico, shaping a course to make the island of Hicaron, about 50 miles «ir chart, No. 2,683. to the after ijimiso. 088 the ji'forc ml will count. quator tod. iionths oil the nirrent eeping exico, miles ! Chnp. 1.] PA.SSACES. 23 westward from Mariato point, which is a good landfall for vessels bound to Panama from the westward. Between the months of June and November, inclusive, when calms, variable winds, and oftentimes hurricanes prevail on the west coast of Mexico, sailing vessels should stand well out to sea after passing San Francisco, shaping a course to cross the equator in about long. 104° W., thence standing on to the southward, until sure of reaching Panama on the other (starboard) ta k. POUTH-EASTERN AUSTRALIA TO VANCOUVER ISLAND AND SAN FRANCISCO AND BACK.— Full- powered steam routes. — Direct as possible, passing south-east- ward of New Caledonia, and calling at Fiji and Honolulu for coal, it necessary. Distances; — Sydney to Fiji, l,7iU) nilles; Fiji to Honolulu, 2,7(50 miles; Honolulu to Ks(iuimalt, 2,;M0 miles; and Honolulu to San Francioco, 2,0'.10 miles. The route back is the reverse of the above. Sail and auxiliary steam routes.—Pass north or south of New Zealand, or through Cook strait, according to the direction of the wind on leaving, preferably through Cook strait, if from Sydney or Bass strait, but south i>f New Zealand if passing south of Tasmaiiiii. Thence proceed as from New Zealand. Ou the route back, stand to the south-westward into the N.E. trade, and thence proceed as direct as possible, crossing the equator in about 170^ W., and passing westward of the Fiji islands and south- eastward of New Caledonia. See chart, No. 2,68;}. !i ^ I I '\ 24 CHAPTER II. "'AN DE FUOA AND HARO STRAITS. WITH ADMLIALTY INLET. — PUGET SOUND. — EHCiUIMALT HAUBOUH. — VICTOKTA HARBOUR.— INNER CHANNELS.— DIRECTIONS. Variation, 22 |° East in 1808. JUAN DE FUOA STRAIT, formed between the south coast of Vancouver island and the mainland of Washington territory, has its entrance between the parallels of 48° 23' N. and 48° 'AG' N., and on the meridian of 124° 45' W. ; it is liable to all those sudden vicissitudes of weather common to high northern latitudes ; and in few parts of the world is the caution and vigilance of the navigator more called into action than when entering it.* The breadth of the strait between cape Flattery, its southern point of entrance, and Boniila point on Vancouver island (its northern), is i;i miles ; within these points it has a breadth averaging 12 miles in an Easterly direction for GO miles. At its eastern part are channels leading northwards to the P.ritish possessions, and among the Haro archipelago, and southward to those of the United States, by Admiralty inlet and Puget sound. The strait in the centre is of great depth, but within 1), miles of either shore there is, generally, under 40 fathon\s, and on the northern wide, when 5 miles eastward of port San Juan, 8 to 12 fathoms will be fimnd within one mile of the shore. On both sides of the strait, are several anchorages or stoi)ping places which may be taken advantage of by tliose ;iieoting with adverse winds ; those on the southern side, before reaching the harbours of Admiralty inlet, lire Neeah and t^allam bays, Port Angeles, New Dungeiiess bay, Washington harbour, and port Discovery ; on the nortlnTU side, westward of the Race islands, are Port San .luan, Sooke inlet, and Becher bay, eastward of which, excellent anciiorage may bi^ always obtained during westerly winds. On the northern, or Vancouver island shore, the hills rise gradually and are densely wooded, but near the coast attain to no great ♦ Str Admiralty charts ; — Vancouver island and adjacent shores of Britiah Columbia, No. 1,917, scale, »« = 15 of an inch ; and Juan de Fuca atrait, No. l,yil, scale. "' = U'28 of an Inch. I ! Chap. II.] JUAN DB PUCA STRAIT. 25 1080 il»'8 the to )oth lich ikIh ; ilty 'I'y. 11 le, iind ally reat itiah t'levation ; on the southern side are the almost perpetually snow-clail mountains, known as the Olympian ninge. RESCUE STATIONS.— Depots, with provisions and other necessaries for ship-wrecked Mariners, have been established at cape Beale lighthouse, and Carmanah lightliouse. These two lighthouses are teleg;aph and signal stations. Notice boanls have Ix'en erected at intervals between cape Beale and Port San Juau (about 1;? miles eastward of Carmanah lighthouse), giving infonuiition, for the use of sliip-wreeked Mariners, respecting the direction and distance of the nearest lighthouse, and also of the nearest Indian village where assistance can be obtained. — Sec ((Lso page 3. The COAST southward from cape Flattery trends S.s.K. for 25 miles, the land being mountainous anil thickly wooded. At the distance of 11 miles are the Flattery rocks, a group of remarkable, bare, rugged islets, the outer rock lying 2^ miles from the shore.* At 12 miles from them in the same direction is a remarkable square white rock, nearly one mile from the shore, which, when the sun's rays are reflected from it, is particularly ctmspicuous. UMATILLA REEF LIGHT-VESSEL is moored in 25 fatho.ns, about 2), miles, S.W. | S., from Umatilla reef, and shows //r , dinjilrir. elecf ric, fi.rrd irhit'- lights, one from i-ach masthead, each elevated .55 feet above the sea, and visible in clear weather from a distance of Ki miles. The light-vessel is schooner-rigged, with two masts and no bow- sprit, a funnel lul fog-signai api»aratus between the nuists, ami a white circulai' gallery at each masthead under the lantern. The hull is painted red, with I' 'Kitilbc nrfm large black letters on each side, and 67 in black ligures on ea;;h bow ;md quarter. Should the electric apparatus be out of order the light-vessel will still shoAV two fixed white lights, Ijut of less j'ower than the electric lights. Fog signal is a stt-am whistle, which gives a blast rverii tliirttf sefiinds, thus : — blast, l/nvr sminifs ; sileucf, fiiinti/sereit .seoindK. DESTRUCTION ISLAND is \l mil.s long, narrow, and lies nearly parallel with tlie coast at one mih from it. It has steep white diflt'y coast, is over lOH feet high, and covered with grass, but no trees ; in the channel between it and the shore is a deptli of 12 fathoms. ♦ Si-f Admiralty chart :— C'a|M! Mendocino to Vancouver i^ l)ay. Directions. — Leave this bay on any indicatioji of a n»irth-we8t wind ; it too late, and unable to weather Waaddah island, run between it and the main witli the assistance of the chart ; the ])a8sage is H cables wide, and the least water 21 feet ; be careful to avoid the ledge off the south-west end of Wsiaddah, and in hauling out give the eastern side of that island a berth of at least a quarter of a mile. Vessels have ridden out north-west gales close to the south-east end of Waaddah in G fathoms, but it is more prudent to get out iinto the strait at tlie commencement of the gale. D""'"^ strong westerly or south-west gales, or after they have been blowing ovaside, a considerable swell rolls into the bay, which renders it at such times a somewhat disiigreeable though not unsjife anchonige ; small vesstds may go close in and get smooth water, even among the kelp which grows in 4 and T) fathoms. A life-saving: apparatus hii8 been established in Neeah bay. Tides. — It is high water at full and change in Neeah bay at Oh. '^'^m. ; springs rise 7.^ feet, neaps rise C;| feet. CALLAM BAY is 15 miles K. i S. from Net'-ah l)ay, the inter- vening coast b^'ing nearly straight, and the shore boh'.. The only remarkable feature is Klahosloh (^Seal rock), l.')0 feet high, lying a short distance ott' shore at 2 miles eastward of Waaddah island. If there is an e:>8terly or south-east wind, there is temporary anchorage and shelter in the centre of the bay in from «S to 1(1 fathoms. Callam Ste chart, No. l,i)ll. :^2 JUAN DE PUCA HTRATT. [Ohap. ir. i J ' bay iB easily rocogiiiHotl by Slip point, itH oaHtern bluff, which is tho weBtoru termiiiiition oatH innnt obtain their supply at b»w tide, and come out when tho tide has Huftioiently risen. The shore eastward of tho stream is low, swampy, and covered "With trees and brush, and off it are tixtensive mud flats, which uncover at low water for over half a mile, and extend to Wsiiihington or Hutlds harbour ; ahoal water exists for some distance outtiide these Hats. LIGHT.— New Dungreness.— From a conical liffhthous*', the upper half black, the lower half white, surmounted by a red lantern, situated at about 2 cables from the extremity of the si)it, is exhibited, at UM) feet al>ov(' the sea, a Jixed ir/iite liKht, visible in clear weather IG miles. Pogr Sigrnal. — During thick or foggy weather, a whistle is sounded from a position l.')0 yards north-eastward from the lighthouse, in the following manner: — A blast of six secondx duration, succeeded by an interval of twelve seconds, then a blast lasting tJiree seconds followed by an interval of thiity-nine seconds. Telegraph oable. — A submarine cable extends from New Dungeness to Clover point (Vancouver island) ; there \3 a small house on the spit, one mile S.W. of the lighthouse, wih t! e words, " cable crossing," on it. Anchorage. — The usual and best anchorage in New Dungeness bay is to bring the lighthouse to bear N. \ W. half a mile distant, in 8 fathoms, sandy bottom. With the lighthouse bearing N.W. by N. three-quarters of a mile distant, the same depth and bottom are found ; from this position a vessel can readily get under weigh and clear the point. A south-east wind drawing out of the strait blows directly into this bay, but the bottom will hold any vessel with good ground tackle ; the only difficulty will be to get the anchors out of the mud after riding a couple of days to a gale. Tides. — It is high water, full and change, at New Dungeness at 3h. 3m. ; springs rise 5 feet. WASHINGTON HARBOUR.— The coast from New Dunge- ness trends E.S.E. for nearly 7 miles to Washington harbour. Set chjirt, No. 1,947. [Ohap. II. 1, anil upon er iiiay J>e innt obtHin rtuttifitmtly id covered iats, which Vnahington ice ottUiide thonsc, the red lantern, the rtplt, is , vittihh' in e is sonnded lOuse, in the eeded by an ids followed from New \s a small t! e words, Dungeness distant, in |N.W. by N. are found ; id clear the |w8 directly )od ground )f the mud mgeness at. ?w Dunge- harbour. Ohaj). IT.] \E\V ntTNOKNKSS.— AOMlRAr.TY INI.KT. :<:. The «'ntrj\nce is almost cloHt'd by a Imitr Hiiml spit fxlcndin^j froin tlie eastern side, leaving' a narri»w cliaiiiicl with only 2 t'ulhoniH, whieh tleepens within to V,\ fatlionis ; tlierefore, as a harbour, it is of little iinportanci* wh(*n there are ho many good ones in the neii^'hbourhood, PORT DISCOVERY, where Vancouver anchored and refitted his ships, anil from whence he commenced his exploration of these regions in May 17'.I2, is an extensive inlet trending in a south-easterly direction for (5 miles, with an averages breadth of 1^ miles ; the general depth of water is from 20 to lU) fathoms, but an anchorage may be had on the west side 1^ miles within the entrance in IT) fathoms, ';lose to the shore, also near the lunul of the port. A spit ext(!nd8 a short distance oH' Clallam point, the western l»oint of entrances ; and when working up, the prominent points should not be closely api)roacheJ, as the soil breaking away from the neighbouring difVs has formed a bank off most of them. Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in Port Discovery at 2h. 30m, ; springs rise 7 feet. Protection Island li(*s immediately off the entrance of the Port Discovery, and shelters it from north-west winds. The highest part is near the western end and is 21.5 feet above the sea, but the fir trees by which it is covered make it look much higher. The coast is rery steep, and the eastern part of the island is cultivated. Dallas bank, on which vessels may anchor in from 4 to 10 fathoms, extends 2^ miles N.N.W. from the island. The north-west side of the island is shoal for Ih miles off, and there is a li-fathoms patch, named Dallas shoal, 2\ miles N.W. from the north point ; reefs extend from the west, and south points about one mile, but there are clear deep channels between it and the main ; that to'the southward being one mile in breadth, and that to the eastwanl H miles. A black buoy is moored on the reef, extending from the south- western end of the island. Libby rock, with a depth of 11 feet, lies half a mile N.W. of Middle point ; northward of the rock a red nun buoy, numbered 4, is moored in S fathoms. ADMIRALTY INLET.— At 14 miles E.N.E. from New Dungeness light, is the entrance to Admiralty inlet, between Wilson Sfe chart, No. 1,947. SO 11948 C 2 •M\ ADMIRALTY INLET. [Chap. TL SM t m point on the sonth and Partrulgo point on the north, the hotter a remarkiil)h» sloping? cliff of a wliitisli colour; and hen' commences that extensive and singular sciries of inland navigation, which penetrates the continent in a general southerly direction for nearly 90 miles. These waters were first explored by Vancouver, -ind have since undergone a more detailed examination by the United States Government.* General description. — Under special names the great body of water now known to the couiuiercial world under tlie general designation of Puget sound may be described as a series of vast interior canals giving unsurpassed facilities for navigation in the very heart of a prosperous section of the country. Puget sound, in the broad acceptation of the term, lies between latitudes iT 3' N. and IS 1 1 N. ; and between longitudes 122' HV W. and 12;r 10' W. Admiralty inlet extends in a geneml S.S.K. direction for about 60 miles, to the southern end of Vashon island ; with an average width of ;V^ miles, and iiumeroiis branches from it on both sides iorm other straits, channels, bays, and harbours. At 16 miles within the entrance Hood canal opens out southwanl, and 9 miles further Possession sound 0))ens northward and runs to the north-westward behind Whidbey island and leads into Rosario strait through Deception pass. At the sonth end of Vashon islar I the Puget sound of Vancouver commences ; the channels decrease in width to one or 2 miles, but they ramify by eight principal arms through an area of 22 miles square. The extreme north-western avm, named Case's inlet, reaches within 2 miles of the head of Hood canal, and between them lies comparativtdy low ground and a large lake. The shores of these inlets are generally bluffs, ranging from 50 to 500 feet in height, and their tops are covered with trees and thick undergrowth to the very edges. It is ditlieult to recognise the different points from the sameness in the appearance in the shores. The depth of v/ater is everywhere great and anchoniges are ditlieult to obtain near the shore. The navigation of Puget so\ind should not be attempted without a pilot unless well acquainteil with the various channels. * Sfr Admiralty chart :— Ailmiralty inlet and I'mfet soiiml. No. 1.947: w!»le, m = U'52 inobtM. Chaji. II.] (;emer/.l descuiption.— wil.sox point. 37 lorages are (1 withont a 1,947 ; wjile, Partridge bank, ii ridge about one mile wide, extends Ii| miles in a W.N.W. and E.S.E. direction, situated W.N.W. of Partridge point, its eastern end being IJ miles from the point. The shoalest part, a small patch of 2| fathoms, lies [\\ miles W. by N, ^ N. from Partridge point, and 3', miles S.S.E. ^ E. from the lighthouse on Smith island. Depths of 4 and .') fathoms extend one mile to the north-westward cf the patch, and the water then deepens to 7 fathoms, this latter tlepth being found at a tlistance of 2^ miles from Smith island ; to the south-eastward of the patch the depths are 7 and 1) fathoms. A black buoy is moored on the north- west nrn edge of the patch of 2^ fathoms. WILSON POINT.— This point forms the western point of the entrance to Admiralty ii^^let. It is also the north-western point of the entrance of Port Townsend. The high yellow clay clitrs surmounted by forest trend from Port Discovery to Port Townsend, ..nd reach a height of -iW or 50() feet ; they are very steep under a hill 250 feet high, about half a mile westward of Wilson point. This point stretches out towards Admiralty head and is formed of low sandy hillocks covered with coarse grass. Between Middle point and Wilson jioint the 5-fathoms line is less than a quarter of a mile distant, except near Wilson point, where it extends half a mile over a very rough, ntcky, and shingly bottom, with a field of kelp. The kelp tield is well off the point on the north side of the bight just westward of the low extremity. During ebb tide a very strong eddy sets eastward ahmg shore from Middle point, and even as far as Port Discovery. Vessels working out from Port Townsend, with the strong summer winds, hold well untler the south-east shore of Wilson point. LIGHT.— Wilson point.— From the top of the light-keeper's dwelling (white) situated on Wilson point is exhibited, at an elevation of .')3 feet above the sea, i,\ fixed irhifr light showing a reft Jlanh every fwenti/ seconds, which should be seen in clear weather from a distance of 12 miles.- Fogr Sigrnal. — a steam-whxstle giving a blast of eight seconds duration each iniimli' is sounded in thick or foggy weather from Wilson point. &>4ch»rt, No. 1,047. 38 ADMIRALTY JNLET. [Chap. 11. Quimper peninsula.— Bet wrou l\»rt Dincoveiy jintl I'orl TowuBend licH ii i)eninHuhi ii;'er;if,'iu^' :\ miU'H in breiulth and 10 miles louti. it is undulating land ami has many large farms. Partridge point is the western i)()»nt «)f Whidby island, antl tht! eastern boundary of .Jiinn de Fuca strait. Tht^ seaward slojje is very steep aiul shows large areas of sand and sandy soil. The coast line is lev,;) on the summit, which is covered with spruce, lir, and cedar. There ;ire two noticeable cultivated farms on the shore jibout ){ miles to the northward of the point. The jMjint is so rounding that it is not easily recognised on coming from the westward, bat from the south and north it is well marked and prominent. Its face is comi)osed of yellow sand, which, l)eing blown up the hill by the strong west winds, has formed a very peculiar ridge on the outer face of the top. This is bo narrow that it can hardly be travelled, and in many places it is 3.') feet above the ground ijiside ; yet being overgrown with bushes the ridge is now l)ernianent. The highest part of the point is about 2->i^t feet above high water. Although the point is (juite bold, yet drops suddenly, that, in foggy or smoky weather those running by the lead may be uue.v- pectedly upon a boulder reef which exti'nds half a mile from the point and is marked by kelp. Oil' the end of the reef in '> to 10 fathoms the tidal streams are very str«mg and there are overfalls at the changes. A red bell buoy is placed in la fathoms about one mile from the point. ADMIRALTY HEAD lies H miles E.S.E. from i'ai-tridge point, and directly oj)po.site the entrance to Port Townsend. It is a nearly vertical, rocky clill", HO feet high, the sunimit is marked by the cluster of white lighihouse buildings ; it falls away to the nortli to low marshy ground and a large lagoon. Light. — From a light-keeper's dwelling (white) 41 feet high, situated on Adiniralty head, N.K. by K. distant ;51 miles from Wilson point, is exhibited, at an elevation of 108 fee above the sea, a fi.rt'd white light, which sliould )«' visible in clear weather from a distance of Ili miles. Position.— Lat. 48- '.♦ i:> N.. long. 122" 40 35 W. &v oluMTt, Nu. I,il47. n Chap. II.] rARTHrncjK Point. — pokt townhbnd. .39 reiiius are Admiralty bay is formed by a sweep of the whore line, forming a semicircle with a diameter of more than '^ mileH. It is only used occasionally for anchorage just to the ejistward of the lijjrhthoune, where the bottom is hard and sandy in irregular ridges, and with depths of from 15 to 2.5 fathoms. It is an uncomfortable anchorage, for it is open to the full sweep of the south-easters, and at all times the current is running out. This current is so strong that even in the summer winds a vessel rides to it. With the wind from the southward a vessel would lie in the trough of the sea. Sailing-vessels should not approach Admiralty head or bay, l)ecause in calm weather they encounter the strong and irregular currents near it, or they may be embayed under the ejistern shore. PORT TOWNSEND is just within the entrance of Admiralty inlet, now almost universally known as Puget sound, and is a port of entry for the Puget sound district. It is a safe harbour, l»ut from its extent it is subject to a disagreeable sea in heavy winds, and with a strong south-easter, landing is oftentimes impracticable, and the sea dangerous for boats.* The shores of the port are mmlerately high cliffs, with sonu- valleys ; the summits are covered with forest trees, except near the town. Rook. — A vessel dniwing 18 feet is reported to have struck on a rock from which the Custom-house bears N, 52° W. distant I}] cables, Hudson point is a broad, low gravel spit, stretching out a (juarter of a mile from the high cliffs of the town Port Townsend. Part of the town is built on this low point, and the custom-house is but a short distance from the wharves. A large siiwmill is on the extremity of the point ; extensive wharves project from the front of the town into deep water, and lan miles broad at the mouth and 2^ miles deep to the north-eastward. It lies broad open 8.W. The shores are in part bluff and in part low, with a fringe of marsh nearly around the whole bay. At the head of the bay there are two long narrow sand spits, behind which lies Deer lagoon, a large shallow sheet of water, full of marsh isles and having a shoal outlet between the sand spits. At the eastern part of this lagoon is the settlement of Useless. Scatchet head, the south-western point of Whidbey island, is visible for 25 miles from the southward. ].t is a double-headed promontory with a length of 6 miles and aa extreme breadth of 2| miles between Useless bay and Possession sound. The two heads are bold yellow clay cliffs ; the eastern rises about 300 feet above the water, and is covered wit^i wood, and the western one rises 140 feet or more. The western head has become locally known as the Fai. 3 Scatchet. Off the base of the cliffs there are seen great erratic granite boulders. See chart, \o. 1/J47. [Chap. II. Chai). II.] OAK BAY.— rORT LUDLOW. 4:^ ly to Port south-west et with a of a long 'A rounding rising to a point and > yards in poimd this liet, in the a a narrow >d iishing. niles long, east. The ;he surface crater it is cs it con- is nearly •eastward. |d in part bay. At |8, behind of marsh le eastern fsland, is -headed leadth of 38 about 1 western locally lere are Possession point. — The lower pari in a nearly vertical white clay cliff ; thu bank rtlopes at an aujjle of 4iV, with a partially broken whitiHii front, until it reaches I4»> feet elevation. There are a few scattered trees on the lower part of the slope, and the summit level is covered with them. The shore under the eastern side of the head is bordered by a low narrow beach. The eastern shore of the entr.mce to l*ossessi tiie clitt'fl, and ji low narrow raai-rthy line under them to Pilot point, 2.^ miles distant. The land behind it is 2(K> or 'Mn) feet high and moderately wooded. Under the south side of the point there is good anchorage in 10 fathoms. LIGHT.— On Point No Point, a Ji.ied white light is exhibited at an elevation of 27 feet above the sea, and visible in clear weather from a distance of 10 miles. The lighthouse is a square wliite tower with a black lantern. Fog" signal. — A bell is struck every fen seiotuis. Apple Tree cove lies 6 miles S.E. by S. of Point No Point. From '» to 12 fathoms, over sticky mud bottom, are found fully half a mile fnnn the shore, and a depth of tl fathoms is carried well into the cove. The head of the cove is \i, miles from the j)oint, and vessels may avoid adverse currents by anchoring on the muddy bank. The head of the bay is marshy ; no fresh water is obtainable here. Edmund point.— Directly abreast of Apple Tree cove, on the east side of the inlet or sound, is Edmund point. It is a low, rounding point with a lagoon inside it. There is a blufl' to the southward. Wells point, south of Edmund point, is low and extends from the high bluff behind it. President point and Jefferson point.— On the western sidt- of the sound, and on the northern side of the entrance to Port Madison, there is moderately high, l)luff shore, the land rising behind it and covered with trees. This southern face of Jefferson point is a low cliff in i)lace8. Stretching off the shore between President point and Jefferson iK)int for more than half a mile there is a 9-fathoms bank which affords excellent anchorage when drifting with light airs and having adverse streams. Close under the south side and extending into ,5 fathoms there is a compact mass of kelp. PORT MADISON is broad and deep, ranging from So fathoms at the south-east part to 20 fathoms at the north-west part. The northern shores of the bay are broken white cliffs and intervening low beaches. The western shore is moderately low cliffs, with the white buildings of the Indian reservation at the Sr-r- chart, No. 1.947. \> ■ 1 I I in ADMinATiTY TNLRT. [Olmp. TT. <'Htranc»» to Afpito )MiHHa<,'«'. Th«' south HhoroHure broken rliM's, exc«'|>t iit the Hutraiicf U> Port Miuliwui dock. Tho millH an; halt' i\ mile iiisi(l<> the iiorth-euBt point of tlif t-ntrancie, with anij»l'> whaif faciliti«is and moorinj,' doli)hiiiH. Navigrable depths. — The ehimnel is narrow, and has a deptli of 13 feet. ()utsi(h^ tiie entrance to this Inner port the water deepens to 1.^ fathoms in h'ss than half a mile, except to the westward, where there is a lon^ >*pit with oidy 1«'5 t<» IS feet upon it for nearly half a mile from the shore. Monroe point. — The south-east i)oint is a low, narrow siind spit, curving? inward from the outer shore to the westward and merely outlyinff the cliffs 'i cables. Very shoal water extends nearly to the .'5-fathoms line, and then the depth increases to K* fathoms in ;'»(! yards and to 20 fathoms in 2(X) yanls. LIGHT. — A /i.rcd t'fd light is shown from a white stake on Monroe spit, !.'>() yards from the mv\ of the spit, at an elevation of 2r) feet above the sea. BAINBRIDGE ISLAND lies in a deej) bight of Great I'eninsula, and its eastern coast forms the western shore of Admiralty inlet abreast West point and Dnwamish bay. It is moilenitely high, has some high bluffs along the eastern shore, but this is broken by several indentations, forming anchomges and harbours. PORT ORCHARD lias its entrance in the south-western part of Port Madison. This entrance is very narrow and somewhat crooked, but has from 15 to 4 fathoms in it. \'essels must I'nter under easy sail and keep the lead going on each side to find the deepest water. When through give liolin i)oint a berth of nearly half a mile, to avoid the shoal extending eastward fnmi it. Around Bolin point. Dogfish bay opens north-west, and near the head (tf the port, Dye inlet trends northward and westward. Rioh passag'O, the southern entrance to Port Orchard, is obstructed by rocks and is difficult of luivigatiou. The winds are light and variable, and at its narrowest part, where it makes a sharp turn, the streams are strong. Utt chart, No. 1,947. Chap. 11.] MAniHOX PORT.— KAfJLK FIAFIHOI'R. 47 )f th. An iron l)eaoon 18 feet high. Hnrmountetl by a iwrrt'l painted hiacl» and wiiito in horizontal stripen, stands on Orchard i-ocltH. A r«'d conical buoy in piaci-d in iUi feet, 4(X> yards Honthward of Orchard rocks, with Orchanl point S.S.K. ^ K. about ,') cables. The rocks are covered at high water. Dock. — The United State.n Government dry dock at Port Orchard is (JIO ftct louf,' over all, 573.^ on the blocks, IKijj feet wide at the entrance ; has 30 feet over the sill, and '2^ feet on the blocks. Skiff point, at 3 miles S.S.E. of Munroe point on the west side of the inlet, projects fully half a mile into the chaimel. It is low, and rises regularly to a ridge to the westward ; the blut!" to the northward is niodcmtely hi>-'li. Murden cove is jnst under Skirt" point. The north-western shore is low ; the s(mtheru shore has steep clay clills. The inner part of the cove hsis shoal water, but inside of the line of the two points there is anchorage in 10 to 15 fathoms. Yenioalt point is the southern point of Murden cove. It is a low point, with gently rising land behind it. The cliffs to the north- wanl and southward are moderately high and broken. There is deep water off the point. EAQLE HARBOUR is a narrow indentation in the eastern shore of Bainbridge island. At the month the entrance is barely half a mile wide. The north side of the entrance is Wing point, very narrow and low. A long, pebbly beach extends 30(> or 400 yards S.E. from Wing point, and late surveys have developed a direct connection from this ledge to Blakely rock, running parallel with the shore. For three-quarters of a mile from the point on a line to Blakely rock there is found as little as 2^ fathoms. Outside of this ledge the bottom drops very smldenly to ."iO fathoms. When bound into Port Blakely do not haul too close to the shore nntil within half a mile of lilakely rock. If large vessels are boimd into Eagle harbour, they would liave to enter from the southward, close under the shore, and pass tlirough the narrow but deep channel between the ledge and the shore. Buoys. — A red nun buoy is moored near the south-east extremity of Wing point reef, half a mile from the point, and should not be H ADMIRALTY INI.RT. [Chap. IF. :il)|>roaoh»>^ fathoms, over hard bottom. Here the width, under th«' northern and southern shores, is only JiiM) yards, and that width decreases further in. Blakely rook. — in the outer road there is a ledge of rock nearly 'I cables in extent, and a lar<,"' part of it is above water. The middle and highest ))art is l') feet above water. There is shoal water and foul gronntl for 2C>i> yards to the northward of the rock, with a bank of kelp extending into 7 fathoms water around it. Directions. — On the south side of lUakely rock, there is deep water close to, with a passage between it and the nortliern part of Restoration point, nearly half a mile wide ; this passage has 25 fathoms, with sticky bottom. The passage between the north entrance point and Blakely rock is half a mile wide between the lO-fathoms lines, and has 2G fathoms, (»ver sticky bottom, so that vessels from the northward always i)a8s between the rock and the north entrance point. The approach from the northward is over the ledge joining Wing point with Hlakely rock. A little less than half a mile north of Blakely rock, this ledge can be crossed in 1) fathoms, sandy bottom ; but thence to Wing point the depth on the ledge tlecreases, and as little as 2i fathoms is found, with deep water inside. Outsidt* ilie ledge the depth rapidly increases to .')0 fathoms. Restoration point is in some respects very peculiar ; no other point in these waters, except Battery point, presents the wime formation. For 'AOO yards it is Hat, about 10 feet above high water, and has one foot depth of soil, covered with grass, over a limestitne rock upheaved nearly on edge, the direction of the strat^i pointing toward Battery point, or a little sou tli-east ward of it. Inshore the ik» eh«n, Me. 1,»47. CI lill). II.] pfinr ni-\M:i,Y.— WKMT imunt, 49 liinti I'lHCH rtt«><>|)lv iiltoiit 1(HI ff*>t, lilt' HiiU>H coven><| with ^imhs iititl itH 4iiminii with iir in'c Around thf whole soiith-i'HHt«'rii fm-H (tf tho Winj; l>rth of )ttutu ; iimI ilH |(U- I hi- lt other water, |ie8t()ue Milting re the point theHe peculiaritieH exiHt. On the upper levelH of the high hind luijiieent iire small lakeu. From thf extremity of the point a leilj,'e, dry at low water, and lit ilepth iH (juarter named Decatur reef, » xtends int«) the inlet ;5(M( yards, tlit t» fathoms at l(M> yardn oH' its extremity, and lt» fathoms at of a mile. Southward of tlie point, anchorap- may l>e had in I. '» fatluuns, <»ver sticky ItotNun. a «|uarter of a mile from shore, or, as a rule for lindiinf anchoi-a>;e, hrinu IMakely roek north of the point, in line jusl over and inside of ii. Kelp e\ists aloni; the southern face. Deoatur reet is miu-ked U\ a red iee-buoy in S fathoms, with Uestonition point W. by N. \ N., distant KM) yards. Orchard point is the low rocky p(»int al the south side of the entrance to Hicli pjissaj^'e into l*ort Orchard. Rehind it the land rises into a modemte hillock with a low neck to the southwiird, and a cove inside the passat^e to the westward. Ott' this point the water is deep. LIGHT. — A fi.i-fd irhih' li^hi is exhiliileil on Orchard point, elevated *.*'> feet alxive the sea. Meadow point, nearly opposite Monroe point on the western shore of the sound, is a small low icfrassy point, with a marshy lajj^oun iiiBide and hit,'her ground risinp behind. WEST POINT is a sharp low jjrassy point projectin^j nearly one mile into the channel. LIGHT. — On West point -a Jhixhimj \'\^\\\ exhibits trd aiiu white Hashes alternately, at int.-rvals <»f Ifn sri'mnis. It i.< elevated '27 f»'et abovi' hijfh water, and visible 10 miles in clear weather. Fog" Sig'nal. — A steam trumpet f miles to the eastward. Locally, this bay i8 known as Salmon bav. The shoal water extends furthest at the .Vcolwrt. Nu. I,i*47. SO llUitt it :><• AhMIIIAl/rV IM.KT. [ClKip. I mouth <»f tlu' civfk ; two fwt can In* rurrifW into the mouth of tliir* rimiiU stream at low water. Anchoragf may b»' had in ShilrthoU' bay in \'t fathomri, over Hunily bottom, with WcHt point liKhthouso bearin;j[ South, distant ihree- quarters oil a mile. There iH a jjrood anchorag*- in 7 to 10 fathoms about 'iWl yards from the shoH' between West |)oint and Shilshole creek, an\n! hori/tuUal cut. whi<-h is halfway lu-tween the wnfer and ih' lop; it is a good landmark. This blnfl" is nametl M.ignolia ItliiH' ; it reaehes nearly KK) feel elevation and c«uitinues with decr.-asing height for 1), miles Kast to a moderately wide cuve, dry at low water, named Sniitli cove. I'ntler the foot of M;ignolia hliitf aii I!. S.K. It is «'omparali\el,\ low, Itut the land behind rises rapiilly to the lop of the liilge between this bay and I'liimi lake, the extreme hei).dii bein« U'l leet. Duwamish rivi-r is a mod»'nite|\ large ."Stream in the Cascade range of mouiitaiiK. and Minniiig a .'eneral course to the north-west to Duwamish la\. A tributary Irnm ihi' north drjiins the evtensive lakex, Washiiiutoti and Samniamish : and in its \alleys and at the lakes there have been developed extennive deposits of coal and iroti. The wlude country is well witoded. The great mud Hats at the head «d' Duwamibh bay are formed fruiu the s«Mlinienls brought down by this river. * .Sry Adminiity plan . — H(«ikiil*> harbtmr. .Nn. 1.427 : Muule, mas.'t'O inoluM. i nii:.|.. II.] DTW \MTSII BA v.— HKATTLK. r»i SEATTLE, ill -he nurth-eawi«'iii part of DuwamiHii lx»y, in an exti'iirtiv*' t«»\vii. Vt'KH«ls t'ttii tilttaiii aii ninds (if supplieH. It in lliH BMppinj? port for the coal ininen in the vicinity, and larjjfe (|iiantities are exported. Wheat is largely »'Xj»orted and the lumber business is evtentiive. 'Pht-re is an extensive systeni of wharves in the extended frontafje of Seatth', and stoainboats and vessels ^o directly there to discharge and load. 'Ches** wharves extend into to ;J and 4 fathoms. Vessels anchorinir otr the town find the iiest lurrountl near the southern part of the town, where a depth of ir> Im 'iO fathol:|^i ov»m' muddy bottom is round. JlHi yards outside tin- wharves. It drops ulf suddenly from l.'» fathoms. Coal. -Vens'lf are rapidly coaled at the svharves l>y chutes, alon^;- side which there are depths from IS to 2-^ feet. of its e the lirokeii it rises lilfS to > low, 'tween range west to ti'nsivi- at the il iron, head AMI liv Directions. — When a sailing-vessel is getting under way from the anchoi-av'e off Seattle, the ustuil summer winds eompel iIh' first lack to lie to the souiliNuird towards the edge of the grt-at mild Hut. if it i>«- high water this Hat cannot !'«■ distinguished, and the lead must b»' kept going. When a depth of 1.'') fathoms is struck. >;o about, for the water shoals to li fathoms very stuldenly. If tile stream i)e elib, those buuud out of tlu- sound should stand well into the inlet ; and if bound up the sound should work close u)ider and around Duwainish head to l'int. The land riseK rapidly behind it and it is pine coveri'd. It is tbf north point of haiintleroy cove, BraC6 point forms the south hide of i-'aumleroy cove. It is a small, low. sandy, gravelly point, backed by n'oitlly rising ground, covered wiiii Oregon pine. When running north, before a vesHel reaches IMilly point, I'race |i4 line lyiiit; but a rdjort diHtance oiitHido, with 120 fathoinn in initl-channel. There it* deep water on the north and Month sides ; strong' dtreuinn sweep hy it. Bloke Island, at the northern entrance to Oolvos pasrtJijjfe, is unoni one mile in extent, not !iij.'li, hut cdvereil with wood, except at the ea.stern point, wiiich in low and p»ld)ly. The eantern hide of the island is low. with .stra^'^^linj; trees, and the land rirtes to near the western side. There i.n anchor.ige in 17 to 1H fathcms close under the east point, with bortoni of soft mud. Allen bank exteixls Inun Hlak«- iHJand, with lesH than 20 h'.lhouis avross to Vashon point at the entrance lo ('nivos paHrtu^e. The botton-: i^■ vuriable : in Hoine places mud and in others hard sand. The depiii i.s greater near (he island and decreases to as little as S\ tathoms one mile \. .J, W. of Vashon point. Thi-" bank hai» proved of L'reat service lo vesselh lo.> ilo' largest in .\i|rniralt> itdetand Puget sound. It i- high, with sleep t'oasi, coxered with wood and undergrowth. Its surface is mstrshy, in many parts i|uiic <>levated. The coast line of the island i^ 17 miles, and around there is a lieli of kelp in the latter part of ilic siitnmer and autumn. Iiut it is torn away by the stormt (»f the winter anil spring. The easternmost projection of the i-oast of Vashon island is a curiously sha)>ed peninsula, named .Maury island, ■t^ miles long and H mile.4 wide, lying at the south-east part of Vashon island. Thiii )H>ni^i(mla is high and wooded. .Vriihnre. No. l.t»4:. IT r H \I»MlltAIiTY rSLRT. fChap. II ' I . ' 1 > The north-wewi |mri ih connectetl with Vawhon island by u low fiiindy neck of land ItK) vardH wide. The hijjht at the north end of this neck is Tramp harbour. In the earlier j'ears of the navij,'ation of these wuteix by large Kill lin;r- vessels, Colvos pasHage wiis universally used, but in recent years the development of Taconia and the use of tugs have ehanged the whole traMio to the main «'hanne| between Vashon island and the main short* to the eastward, in this channel the streams ure not strong, the chances for anchoring are few, and it is someti'.nes calm while there is a tine l)reeze blowing through Ccdvos passiige. The main channel on the east side of Vaslion island is the Ih^hi to w<»rk in with a head wind. Quartor master harbour, the deep l)ay on the south side of the neck and iietween Vashon island and Maury island, is IJ), miles long and over half a mile wide, with '> to 10 fathoms, over gray Hand and mud at the north e.xtn'inity. This Imy is an excellent shelter at 'I mih's inside tlu- cutrani-e, with good water and good holding ground. Theri' is ii dock here, Hfr page ."ji». Vashon point, tlie norrhern point of the island, is a high rounding bluff, covered witli Oregon ])ine. Oil' the north of N'ashon island there is good anchorage from about one-third of a mile oH- shore, with protection fnuii sruith-easters. Dolphin point is a high blulf, covert-d with Oregon pine to the base, (ilood anchorage is rejiorted in from 7 to I -I fathoms. In the bight ))etween this poiiit yardn outside the trees, with intervening marshy ground, and then a bluff, which in about Hd feet high, covered on the top with tre«'s. The blurt" rises to about 7t» feel. ."*•<■ chart, No. i.?«:. I] riiiip. II.] (^UAHTKHMASTKH H \ HHorH.— COMMKNrKMKN'i' HAY. *>'► ilit, .1; South (»!" UeytT |)<>int iwu broad opfn bijjriit tiium'tl 'rnimp liurbuiir, with a vt'v low short' on tht? Houth^rn part ami nearly connected witli the head of QuartenuaHt»->r harbour. In tliiH bijjht therr \n aiR'lioraf,'!' in ]'» to IH fatiioins, ovtr liiu' j^niy sand ; this is a ^ood anchorajft", and tlu'i-f in frenli watt-r, LIGHT. — A fi.rifl iTt/ lifrlit, t'i<'vati'd Id f»'»'t altove the ««'a, it* Hxhil)it«^d from a white poHt on Kobinno!) poi>it. Fog" Sig'nal. — A stfain whistle in sounded xi.r xcntnds Ht interval of fi f'fi/.fniir srrniifl^. Brown point iHthe ii(»rth point of the cntraiue io (!oininenceinent itay. On the outer point io tiie north it is low and H:nivelly with m'ently rising: wooded tjround iM-iiinti a inarshy spot inside the low point. \)\i the south fare of the point the siiore rises gradually and irre^Milarly in while elay cliHs from ;2.'» to 'i(Ml ft-rl hi^h within half a mile from the point. Dash point is the low p<»int 1 ,'„ uiiles N. i)y E. of Brown )>oint. LIGHT. — Xji.ntt irliitf liy:ht is exhibited from a wliite stake on Hrown |)oint. COMMENCEMENT BAY.— South of K'obinson point the width of the inlei is W], miles, with hij,'h ItliilV. wooded shores «»n both sides : on the north-western shore the blulVh are unl)rokeii , on the soutli-eiist tlu-y are broken by Hinall streams. At the head of the bay there is an extensive mud tlai, and i<>\\ marsh land I'ornu'd by the deposits broU)j:hl lown by the I'uyallup river. This is a laru«' stream flowing' from the Caneade raniire ami lU'arly parallel wiiii the hawauiish or White river.'- ThrouirlKiut the bay the de|)th is irrcat, ran^iiiK from S.S fathoiiih in I In midille of ihe entraiiee Io llO fathoms elo-e under ejdier nhore, iiud '.'*• fathom^ elose t?reiit and invrenMes verj ntpidlv ollshore. Tin-re i- /iwid anehoraK« under the north shore )te^innin^ thi-ee-i{uartei'H of a mile euhiward of Hrown point ; this anchom^e is well shf Itered front all but the Kouth-ettHters of winter. • vv AHTnirnlty |>tuii — Timmhiih l)KrlHiiir. No. IJ'Ji ; immU*. (was.'t'i' iiifhc*. l- ' ii I t \\ I A4> AhMIR.VIiTV 1X1, KT. [<'hill«. II. TlifH' ib iiiM'honiK'*^ otf thf wharf at C)l?' w.» Tides. — The t'tldii's are 8o vry irre^'idar in OoinTnenccraent bay that to Hteer l)y <;ours«'H in thick \ve;ither are alnutst iiHelesn. There isa peculiar Hlui of whitiHh water on the surfnce of tlie bay during ebb tide, and first i|Uarter of tlie Hood ; this rarely leaves the bay and is said to c«)me from the^dacial waters biouy^ht down by the I'uyallu)) river. When in or incheH iliatneter and 21 feet long can be turned ; pipes of H inches diamet«'r can be bra/ed : masts and boats can be built. Crane lifts I tons, dtipths alongside S ff«'t, but at very high tidt' 12 feet. Tides.- -It is liigh water. f\ill and changt •( Ih. i.'im. ; s|trings I'ise 10), feet, neaps '.• f«'el, OOLVOS PASSAGE.— Before the general list- of steam-tugs oJi these waters, and before the development tf Tac(»ma as the terminus of u tnms-contineiitiil railroad, this passage was the almost invariably used shij) channel to and from I'uget sound. It is formed by the western coast of Vashon island and the eastern f>f the Great peiiiuMulu. The best anchorage is under the eastern shore, near the Si;- iihurt. No. 1.427. i 1 I Olmp. II.] TACOMA.— THK X ARI'.»»Wft. 57 north «'iitraiicf, altoiit I), iiiil«'H t'nun ViiHlinn |K)iii(, in 'i to 10 fiithnniH. This auchora'^'e is known as fern (;ovf, and the low point forming the Honthern sh(»re is IVter point. Tiiere is iisiiailv more wind in this passui,'t' tluin in the broad passa:;*' eastward of \ashon island., and much stronger stn-anis. There are no known dan>,'ers in this passage. Sonihworth point \» low near the water, init riseH t(»a hiffh wooded i)hit1". It has dei'p watrrclose under its south-east side, but anchoni({e may be had (»ti the north sidt>. halco point is the s?reatly r.imitied inlets of l*uj,'«'t sound. Through it pass all the waters of l*ujfet sound. Thf avt'ijiKf width oi' th»' Narrows is about three-tjnartcrs of a niilf ; tin- shores are hi^h, bold, and in some plaees rocky ; the suuiinil of the dirt's are wooded. Midway through the Narrows the hi^h lon^' rounding point on tlic wcs; side is Kvans point, and close under it is a sunken rock with kelp around it and in other patches aloni: the shore, Evans rock liesahout i:'>() yards otl' shore, has about I. ^ feet upon it at ex.reuu' low tides, and the pilots of the steamboats have Hpecial inarkh for pa.ssin^ close to it. It is btcally known as the " Uoulder." A.I the extreme low tides of ilie year, about June, this rock sliows just altove the water for ,i few minutes al the slack. Tidal Streams. — in mid-cliann»d the re^Milar tlood and ebb stream are always found to run from a half to inie hour after hif^h and low water. There are (j:enerally considerable ripH, ^.specially at springs, with strong swirls, which make the water very rough and dangerous for snuill lioats, uiore i>artifularly when the winda are contrary to the streams. On the east side of the Nariow-* and southward of Defiance jmint A Htrtuig eddy is found on the flood tide from about abreast of Kvnns .Sh^churt, No. 1.V47. 5ft ADMIRALTY INhKT. [Chap. n. point to Diitiaiii-i' point. This eddy is nmcli iisnl \>\ sinall HifuiiuM-H h\u t^TPiit can' must Uv t'xcrcisfd wlu-n closr to Dt'tiaiicr point, if bound throii;;h Dalco passsa^'c in Tacoma, to iiaiii out ^'radually to meet the strong' tiood at the poin iiist*-ad of running into it almost at rij^Iit anodes. Tlu' linr ItetWfun thf Hood and the fddy is wtdl marked l)y the rip. and as both are Htron^ care is tleniai\dfd. On the western sidr of thf Narrows, Ix-tween Kvaiis point and Ui;? harbour, tiien* is a HtroiiK eddy on the «'bl> tide. This ed,M' of by steamboats anti small eraft, but the pilots of boats using this eddy must be careful to keep (dear of the " Moulder," or Kvans rock. H»d\vet'n Evan^ point and FostUck point there is slack water very close under the shore during the flood, l»ut only the smallest craft can take ailvanta>?e of it. Doflanoe point is the north-esiat point of the northern entrance to the Narrows. It rises by several steps. Between hijjh and low water-mark there is a narrow ledj;e or sh»dt' of rock Itare at low water. The face of this r«)ck is almost perpendicular, with 5 fathoms nlon^jside, and at 7(1 yards oil" 10 fathoms over rocky bottom. Above tJiis rocky b-dfje there is a rise of |(> feet, a slope reaching,' fjtl fi>et hi;,dier, and a thirti rise of 1(M> feel, above which the head is densely woo.led, and the grountl rises ^^radually inland. Tin* face of the clitr is too steep for trees, and is a l)ri)^ht yellow ctdour. On the east side strong edtlies exist around the point on the Hood. Gig harbour. — On the western sid«' of the Narrows, at the northern entran«-e. and directly opp«)site DeHanoe point, there is a small lioat harbour, with a depth id" 10 fet-i in the cntr.ince ami .'» fathoms inside. The entnince is very narrt)w. Day island anohoragre. — At ihe s<»uthern entrance to the Narrciws, on the eastern sidt', there is a small narrow projecting' point from the eastern shore, which fonnsalittl se du (he north side. Anchora^t' may lie had in l."> fathoms, liut there are strong,' swirling' streams which make it an uncoinfortahht Iterth. On tin- southern side of this little peninsula, and outside the kelp, anclioraue may also be had, l)ut the streams are stroug. There is a small patch of kelp, with boulders, close oil Day island. PUQET SOUND, — This name is ai)plied in its original meaning for the sake of sul)-(Mviding these waters Up to the Narrows the channel had been broad, open, and nearly straight ; south of the See oh»rt. Xo. I,l»7. <'hjip. Ti.] vrCrV.V sot'NI*. — STKII.A<'OOM. ft9 Narrows th** Hhnrt' liii<> of tlu* huiiiid iiiid of th«> iHliUulH in it iininuntK to '2SH inilt'H, with tin'p \v;tt<>r alomr alinont »'vrry inil«'. 'I'lu' main Ixxly of tlu' .soiiii"! lie.H i<> th»' wiuthwanl and wi'Htward. The navivratio.i is very siinph; in i;<>iid wcatlu'r, but in thick and fof»j(y weathiT it n-ijuin'S a full htcal knowh'd^*' <»t' tlu' strtnims and th«' |K'culiariti)>H of the echufs from all points passed l)y the steam- boats. With a knowled^'e of ilie titles the caiitains and pilots run in fo^^j^y or thiek smoky weiilier ity courses and lime-distant'es, and vvlieii approacliinu any point tiiey ascertain its distance and Itearinu' by the echo of their ste.im-wiiistle fi-oin the siiores. No iiiiniile sailinir direct ions cull id •" Irawn up to take tiie place of tlie local knowledtre and experience of the pilots, and ^fein'iiil directi(»ns are only su>,'!;estive in >,'ood weather, for the chart is tlie best jftiide. Fox Island is P, miles l island is a bri^dit yellow clilf, estimated to be 7(1 feet liiKh, and tMivered with Orcf^oii pine. Whollochet bay. — This is a modenttely wide ixiy.opetiin^ into the north side of Hale passiifr*-. opposite the tniddle of the north shore of Fox island, and one mile west of Kosdick point, at the southern entrance of tin- Narrows. Tiie imiiiediale sliures of this bay are lr>w, risini: to wooib-d hijrh land, and att'ords a ;;ooi| and sheltered anchoraj^e. Tollva shoal.— This danyjer, with \,\ feet over it, lies directly in lineof the southern entnmce to the Narrows. It is one mile from (jibson point at the south-east part of Fo.\ island, and one mile from the eastern nniin slutre. The !>ottom of the shoal nr.i! nronnd it is foul and marked by a patch of kelp. The tide ri|i upon the shoal is very ^'reat. and with a little wind it raises a conftised short swell sulficient to swamp a small boat. Toliva shoal is marketl on the northern side by a vad and black nun buoj'. Steilaooom. — On the eastern shore, '.» miles southward from Defiance point, in the town Steilacoom, situated upon a blutt". There .^(•.'hwrt. No. 5.047. «0 I'UOKT WH'NI). [Chap. fi. Ih u wharf for th** fltciuiiboat landiiiff, iind in tipproarliiii^; in ihirk wtiatlwr the echo of th«' veHMfTrt .steuni-whitille in very >(o»mI. When ui)proaohin^ frouj the northward keep alonj: under tin- euHtern Hh«)re to avoid Toliva shoal, and if lioiind ft>r Sttdlaconni, anchor off the town in la fathonm, over hard itottoin about llMt yards off 8hor«'. Tije title rip in the channel alireaHt of the town \n fr4'(|iiontly «idlieient, with a little winti, to swamp a HUiall l)oal. Sl<'ilac«»oni river in a Hniall stream fniptyint' into the Hoiind one mile northward of the town, hnt Ih now locally known hh ChaniherH cr^ek. Tides. — It ishi^h water, tidl and change, Steilacooui, at 4h. Itini, ; Bprin^H rise 1 1 feet, neap« i'^ feet. Ketron Island in narrow, 4 ndlrs lonjr, lying panillel with the slutre, one mile Honthward of Steilacoom, with a passjige on the east side named Cormorant pasH. The island is from (iO to KKI f*>«>t high, with Mteep sides, and is covered with tall Oregon pine. MoNell island is alMHH '.\ ndles long, east and west, and '2\ milen wiilc. lictwecn its nortli side anTKII.V('(M>M. -.HOOI»V I'OINT, dl Itiink Ik ciilltMl Turku poiui, or l-ylc point ; a \it\\u, nmnilin^, moi|»'rat«'|y lntatii)ti ruuni'd Thompson cov*-, with aiuhoraK** in ;'> nnd G fathonw. Oil Turku point th«*re ur«* rttruuK tide ripn on tht- Hood. NiH(nially Hatn arc '.\}, mihn in »'Xt»'nt, W. by S. and K. I»y N., and about thnM'-<|uart«'rH o!' a iiiilc witlc. They lir off tb»' broad, b»w, marnby vaUoy ibroujrb which the Nisi|ually river and its nunifiontionH roHch the sound. Then* is d«'ep water ab)n>j the northern cdt'e of the Hals, but cspi-eiaily lowards (lie eastern limit. Nlsqually is .'> mib's Soinh of Sii'ihieoom, on ih«' sttme siib' of Ihi' sound. Il is at the mouth ot a small stream and at ihe i-astcru fdiff nt thf i'\i»'nHiv«' Inskip l»ank or Nis(pially Hats. Nisi|ually landing' is om- mile North of thf Nis(|nally river, wh»'re the Sij,'nalil(lii'W ereck empties. Ths-ri' is a sawmill on the creek. This creek is the natiu'al oulk'i (d" the chain of lakes on the prairieH : one of these lakes, .\merican lake, is several miles lonj;. Tides. —Il is U\n\i water, full and rhain^e, at N'is((iuilly at lib. dm. : springs rise IK feet, neajis IT). Devil's head. —This is a bluir about StI feet above the water, and covered with trees that r»'ach a height of l(M) fetM. Then* are trecH under the bliiH" down to the very narrow sand beach. It is the southern point of the unnamed peninsula between Carr inlr-t on the east, and (!ase inlef oii the west. Moody point is the extremity of the promontory between the broad walerH towards Drayton puKsafre and NiH(jually r"ach, and the narrow arm of the souml on the west, named Henderson islet. It is a low. sandy point, with some unpainled shanties under the trees and bluff, which are inside and behind the low short-. Moody point is locally known uh Johnson point. LIGHT. — A fi.nd n'/n'tf li>,'ht, elevated 'i^t feet above hi^di water, is exhiliited on Mooily Mohnson) point. Itsami shoal lies one mile from the northernmost extremity of Moody or .lohiison point, and half a mile from the nearest shore of HartHteiu' island t<» the west. It is a rocky patch, having '.> feet on it. with kelp spreailinK out to u ,: y M Photographic Sciences Corporation '£■>. 'VEST MAIN ST»«EET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 873-4S&3 es :\ V r I C/j s 62 iruKT sor.Ni). [Chap. u. 10 fathoais between the shoiil and tlie west shore of Moody point and G fathoms between it and Dicker.son point. ItHami shoal is marked on the north side by a nun buoy eoh)ured red and bhick in horizontal stripes, with Johnson point N.E. | E., and Dickerson point S.S.W. Vessels bound to Olympia should leave it on the port hand. Dana passage. — From Itsami shoal the passage is contracted to about half a mile wide with mid-channel depths of 2t> to 1.'') falhoniK over coarse gray sand, shells, and gravel, and good water dose to the siiores. The eastern shore is indented and moderately l(»w, but covered with Oretton tir : the western shore is formed by the south side of Hartstene island and is higher tiian the eastern shore. There are very strong streams during spring tides in this passage. There is foul bottom close to Brisco ])oint. am) tlie edge of the channel is steep-to. BriSCO point is fi0 yards from the point and narrows the entrance to Eld inlet. BUDD INLET, at the head of Fuget sound, is ti iniles long, in a general direction is S.S.E. At 1^ miles northward of Olympia the inlet is occupied by a mud Hat, of which one-fourth is bare at low water, and this shoal within the iJ-fathonis' line extends from the head of the bay under the east shore for 2 miles towards Wepusec inlet. The average depth is G fathoms, over a bottom of muil. A stony patch, in ]>art bare at low water, ami surrounded by hard bottom in Ser. chart, Xo. 1,947. t.'hap. il.] DANA PAHSAGE.— HOOD CANAL. 6?, one to :') fathoms, lies ii little abreast the bhift" three-quarters of a mile north of Butler cove. This shoal is marked on its northern edge by a red buoj-. Many vessels go to the wharf at Olympia at high water and lie there in the soft mud at low water. Steamboats run up to the wharves at high water, but if intending to move during the time of low water they must lie nearly one mile N.W., under the west shore, where there is a wharf, and whence there is a good road along the shore to Olympia. Olympia is the capital of Washington. It has educational institutions, manufacturing establishments, sawmills, Ac. The lumber output of tiie country is large, and extensive deposits of coal have l)een found. A wharf projects northward from the town through the middle of the hats, about half a mile beyond the old wharf, into (1 feet water at the lowest tides. Dredging is in progress. Tumwater is a village about one mile south of Olympia, on the l)e Chutes river, whei-e the water-power of the falls is utilised by mills for various products of manufacture. LIGHTS. — Two Ji.rcd red lights are shown at Olympia. Tides. — II is high water, full and change, at 01ymi)ia. at h\\. 'M)\x\. : springs rise 14 feet. Directions. — it would be useless tt» attempt to describe the route betweeii Olympia and Steilacoom, because a pilot or a chart is absolutely necessary to make the passage. In foggy weather, or in the dense smoky weather of a dry summer, it is impossible to see a ship's length ahead, with irregular streams to aild to the dilliculty. The chart is then almost useless, and a thorough local knowledge of every mark on the beaches and of the peculiarities of the echo of the steam-whistle from every clifl' and point are necessary. HOOD CANAL. — This arm of Admiralty inlet opens 1-4 miles inside the entrance to the inlet oli" Wilson point, on the western side of the channel, between Foulweather blutl' and Basalt point on the weBt. The shores of the canal are bold, high, and wooded, rising to much greater heights than anywhere else on the inlet. This is particularly so on the western shore, whore the west shore of the Dabop bay G4 ADMIHALTY IiM.KT. [("hap. II. . attaius iiu elevation of 2,r»(H) feet in less than '2 miles from the water. These high flanking mountains of Olympus range are named Jupiter hills. Hood's head is the island like mass on the western side of Hood canal, 3 miles inside Foulweather bluff. There is anchorage north- westward of the head in 15 fathoms, over muddy bottom, at one-third of a mile from the fllu)re. Th»' north face of the heail is a very steep bare clitl'. and the south face is a roundintr, lii^'h. bare clitl". All behind the cliffs is covered with pine. At the north-east jjoint of the head, a low sandy point extends !}0(i yanls and terminates in a point ; towards the higher poijit the ground is marshy. This is Haniutn })oinl, and off it ileep water is found with strong swirling tides. PORT GAMBLE is a land-locked bay, 'i\ miles long north and south, witii a nearly uniform width of half a mile. It narrttws at the entrance between two htw grassy sand sjjits only IJOO yards ai)art, and with a channel of 120 yards wide between the ii-fathoms lines. The deepest water in the bay is '•> fathoms, and it may be sjiid to have an uniform deptii of ;") fathoms. On the western point of the entrance is a sawmill, and the buildings reach to the rise of the bluff to the westward. Tlu' wharves on the western point are built out so that vessels have deep water between them and East point. A black can buoy marks the edge of the mud bank on the l•a^tern side of the channel in 1(5 feet water. Directions. — When entering under sail, drop in with the early flood. J^oaded vessels are towed in and out by the tug ; when without the tug they must warj) out in summer with the last of the ebb or trust to a light southerly air in the morning, with an ebb stream. None but small, smartly working vessels can beat out, and very few of them have done so within channel limits. When in a small vessel beating out, go out on the ebb. Inside the sawmill and Indian village point there is good water iu mid-channel for anchorage. On the east side of the steamboat wharf there is a depth of 5 to 22 feet, the shoaler water being at the northern end. On the southern side of the wharf, where the lumber vessels lie to receive their cargoes, there is a depth of from 21 to 24 feet at k'O feet from the wharf. Wiside the steamboat wharf. See oh«rt, \o. 1,S47, <"llil|». Tl.l POUT CA.MBLR. — ItrsKWALIiFI'S UIVKH. «:. witli an openint,' to the northward, tliere Iri u ">,'rnliron," upon which Hinall vessels are taken for re])air or exaniinution. It lias 12 feet water on it at high tide. Squamish harbour. — At nearly one mile S.S.W. of Hood's head, is Termination point, with high wooded land behind it and a low narrow beach in front. Case sandbank, i)arallel with the west side, one mile lontr, and nearly half a mile wide, lies within one- third of a mile of the west shore. There is a »)-t'athonis channel inside of this shoal and around the north end. From Tei-minalion point the lO-fathoins line trends South, to the Sisters rocks covered at half ti is a depili of 7 fathoms between them, and good water all around. These rocks are also known as the S(|iiamish rocks. The north shore of the harbonr is culled Yulkat bluff. Seabeck bay. — Southward from T(*rniination and Salsbury points the canal runs for 12 miles, S. by W., with a general width of 1^ miles, gradually decreasing to the point of the Toandos peninsula. The eastern point of Toandos i»eninsula is Hazel point, and under the eastern shore of this reach and directly abreast Oak head lies .Seabeck bay. an indentation of one mile in a southerly direction. .\t its n urow head there is the mouth of a small stream. On the old charts the projection was called Seabeck point ; on llie recent ones it is named Misery point. Oak head is the southernmost projection of Tuandos peninsula. It is high and abrupt with deep water close under the shore. Fiaher- raan's bay, just on the eastern side of Oak head, is a long narrow cove. Dabop bay has very bold shores, deep wat*'r. and v-ry h'gh hills (»n the west side. The western arm at the north is named 0"il<^t''i« bay, and is shallow and marshy at the head, where there is a small settlement named Quilcene on the left bank of Hig river. Dusewallips river. — Abreast of Oak head, on the western side of Dabop bay, the river empties and has formed a Hat delta and a broad shoal in fnmt. This shoal is *i miles long and half a mile wide with deep water close u]) to it. Between this shoal and Tskutsko ])oint. the nearest part of the Toandos peninsula, the width *r chart, Xo. l.'.u:. SO 11948 B ' ()i; ADMIRALTY INM'-T. [Chap. II. ol" the bay is nearly 2 miles and tiic ilei»tii <»! tlie water is 80 fathoms over muddy bottom. Quatsap p(/uit, at 1 m^IIcs S.W. of Oak head, and on the west side of the canal is a moderately low head, uiidei-the south side of whicdi is a broad open bay one m\\v wide with an extensive Hat. This bay receives the Dnckabus rivei', wliich briiiij^s down much detritus. Hamaliama river empties on the west side of the canal, ]'i miles S.S.W. of Oak liead. Tiiis river ili'ains a large lake •1 or ") miles behiiul tlie liii^Ii nn)nntains (jver the shore and into thics lake a larj,'e stream eonies from the Olympian range. Annas bay is the southernmost part of ITooil canal at the (ireat ISend. and it receives tlie water (tf Skokomish river, which has brought down so much seilimcnt that a scpiai'c mile of the bay is a great sand and mud Mat with ileep water ardiiml the outer edge to the west and noi-th. Tliere is deej) water lietween the western edge of this bank and the westeru main shore one mile distant. On the point at the south side of the shore of the inlet and forming the east side of Anna?' hay is the villag.- Union <"ity, wiiicli has a road through to Oakland on llaiinnersley inh t. The Skokomish is a lar^-e nioiiniain stream coming around the south-east flank of the 01ym|iiaii mountains. It drains a large lake named Cushman, hiyh up the thniks of mount KUinor. AyerS point is the head which forms ihe furthest projection of the (rreat peninsula from th'^ northward into the eanal at Annas bay. It is a high rounding jjoint and his deep water close under it. Si8ter.s point is a high roundin.r bluH' ttn the north shore of the canal, 4 miles east w.trd of Ayers jtoint. It projects from the noi-th- ward, and nearly shuts the canal, leaving a ciiiinnel only half a mile widi', with deep water over irravelly bottom. Clifton villagre is at the extreme In-id of Hood canal, with a l.jng sand and mid flat for '1\ miles down the canal. There is a road thence to O.dcland, another to Lightville, at the head of Case inlet, and a third tn Seabeek harl»f»ur. POSSESSION SOUND.~The southern entrance to this now important and extensive series of brcni'l deep channels lies between l'os.H'Ssi(m point, tht^ southernmost point of Whidbey island, and -p>^1.^-,«r^i:.. -...■. <'li;iii. II.] ii(K)i) cAVAi,. — rossKssioN sorsit. rt7 the main shore np])(isite, unmarked by any sjiecial projection or object. Scatchet head and l^)Hses^^i(ln point liave already been described on patres 42, 4.'5. The nortiiern entrance to this sound is the intricate and narrow Deception pass. The sound receives several important watercourses, Snohomish river in tlie south-east, Stilla^'uamish river about the middh', with Skayit river in tiie north-east. It also connects at the north by tlie Swinomish slon<,di with I'adillit bay, and thence with Guemes channel and l^eirni<,diain bay. The dei)th throusrhout the sound is jjreat, except at the deltas ol" the rivers, which briny down an immense amount of alluvial material which forms mud Hats. That from the S(|Uonaniish river lias nearly lijied in across tlie sound and rt'duccd the channel to one-third of a mile wide with only 4 to (! f'lthoms water. There are numerous 'Milages and towns on the rivers and shores of the sound, and beside the traffic by sailinff-vessels, regular communication is kept up by steamer from Seattle with all the towns and settlements. The shores present the general features of Puget sound, but the channels are narrower. There are no known dangers in the (dianncls. The shores of the deltas of the rivers are low ami muddv and bt'hind them there is a dense forest and underirrowth. he |th- lile Lid In Everett (Port Gardner). — The southern part of the sound runs north from Pospession point for ;'){. miles to abreast KUiot point on the east, when it wide!is out into a nearly cijcular basin .').\ miles in iliameter, with Gedney island in the middle ; this basin is locally known as Port Gardner, although the chart restricts that nanu' to the s<»uth-east part. This ])Ort receives the Snohomish river in the north-east part, its lower course comes through a marshy valley '2 miles wide. Hehind Elliot point is the town ?tIuckilteo ; and 4 miles further along the shore to the north-east is the town Everett, Gedney island, lying in the mi(hlle of Port (iardner, is I J, miles long W.N.W. and E.S.E. When seen from Saratoga passage, it shows a moderately steep blufiC to the west and a low slowly rising blufll' to the east, both covered Avith Oregon pine. Tulalip lies on the main shore nearly abreast of Allen point, at the entrance to Port Susan. The bay is protected by two points, and somewhat restricted by a shoal extending from the north-west point Sff chnrt. Xi). 1 .04 7. SO 1191H K-2 (SS ADMIUAIi'lV iMjyr. [(Miiip. II. I ! to Lilt' iniildle of tlic o])t'iiiiif^'. Tln' culiami' in oi»t'n to the rtoiitli- west, and the two points are about one-third of a mil" apart. Two buoys mark the entrance to thin anchorage. One a black opar buoy, the other a red spar buoy. Buoys.— '^P' ill red spar buoys mark the channel over the flats from Utsaliuly, on the north side of Camano island, to Skapit river. These buoys are moored in depths of 12 to K't feet at high water, iMul should be left to the southward. Suiail red spar buoys mark the channel over the Hats from Utsalady to Stan wood, Stillaguamish river. 'i'liese buoys art; moored in tlepths of r.' to l."» ff«'t at high wai'.-r, and should be l(>fi to the westward. Six small red s])ar buoys mark the channel over the Hats at the north end of Port Susan. 'J'hese buoys are moored in depths of !• to 10 feet at high water, and should be left to the eastward. Six spar buoys mark the channel leading into Davis slougli, one of the mouths of the Snoiiomish river. The entrance to SkauMt river is marked i)y buoys, as is also La Conner, at the south entrance of Swinomish slough. SARATOGA PASSAGE is the broad, deep strait, leading from P(»rt Gardner between Camano island on the east and Whid])ey island on the west ; fi-cun Camano head to the mills of Utsaiady is liS miles long. The strait averages 2 miles in width : the shores are bluflfs covered with Oregon ]iine. but iu)t so densely as before the sawmills depleted the forests. Sandy point, on Whidlu-y island, is Tuoderately long, low, and has no bushes. The blulf behind it I'ises by three steps, with straggling trees. There is a house at the inner or western end of the low beach of the ])oint, with a cleared s]>ace on the sloi)ing, rising grouird, and a white house in the iii>]>er ])art of the clearing. It is locally kuown as .loe Brown's point. LIGHT. — A //.//v/ ir/iifr litrht is exhibited from a stake on Santly point. East point, on the western side of Saratogjv })assage, (! miles from Sandy }>«)iut, is a low, grassy spit, backeil by a high blufl' well ,s»7 olmrt. No. LM;s!t, Chap. II.] SAUATOCA I'AaSACJK.— OAK HAUIUH'lt. t'.n wooded : the tops of tlu" trees are eHtimated to Ite 150 IVet ;il>ove the watei'. Rocky point in low m die wuter's edge iind ri.ses ;,'riuluiilly to '<<> Feet ; the trees have been out iiway and scrul) now covers it. About 100 yards off the point is a rocky islet covered with scrub ; it is about ')0 yards in extent at low water, anil is then connected with the point. Watsak point lies (»n the west side of Saratogi" pussiige, and westward f)f the point is the beautiful harbour Penn cove, '6h miles long and one mile wide, with 15 to 7 fathoms water, ami heading within 1 [, miles of Partridge point; towards the north are Oak harbour and Duncan ba> ; to the north-eastward, just beyond point DemocK, is Utsalady. There is ileep water along all these shores except off Watsak point, where a narrow shoal extends northward for half a mile. This point is locally known as Snakeland point. There is a buoy in 4 fathoms about 50 yards off the end of the spit, whicli has only one fathom upon it at low water. Polnell point, on Whitlbey island, forms the eastern boundary «)f I)uiican bay. Between it and Utsalady the Saratoga passage maj' be said to end at the turnaround Demock point. liOcally, Polnell point is known as Miller point. Utsalady is the most important place on Possession sound : it lies on the north side of (Janiano island, 27 miles fro;u the southern entrance of the sound. The channel to it throu*h Saratog.i passage averages 'i miles wide ; tlie water is dee]), the shores are bold, and there are no known dangers. Vessels are usually towed either way. Oak harbour and Duncan bay are two bays on Whidbey island, in the iu)rth-west part of Saratoga passage. There is the town of Oak harbour at the head of the former. Forbes point is a Itroad peninsula 1.', miles long, lying between the two bays^ Around this broad point is shoal water, and buoys have been j)laced to enable the steamboats to avoid it in foggy and smoky weather. LIGHTS. — At Oak harbour, a ti-rcd trhife light is exhibited on the south-east end of Maylor spit, and s.Jl.red red light on the north- west end. Sie iiharl, No. 2,iis'.i. 10 .ll'AN l)K KITA STIIAIT. ("hi»|i. II. A( La ConutT, n find ir/iif^ lantei-ii liylit is shown from u pile on wich side of the cliiiniiel, onc-thinl of a mile from Steamboat .sloujrh. Skaf,'it river. Xfi.n'fl /wi li^fht is shown from a stake at month of Htilhi;,'iiamish river, and a third uiiilr \\\i\\\ at tiie south foriv of Stilhiguamish river. NORTIiKRN SHORE OF .ITAN 1)K FIT("A STRAIT. PORT SAN JUAN, otiieiaily known as Port Renfrew, is the lirst anciiora^L' on tlie nortliern shore within the entrance of Juan de Fuea strait. Thi- opeiiinLT, which is remarkal)h' from seaward apj)ears as a (U-ep -hthouse.* The entrance jxjints lie \], miles K. \ S. and W. .V N. from each other; the port trends iU miles N.K. by N., and is 1] miles wifle, terminating; in a beach of muddy sand. Gordon river and Coojjer inlet enter the {toi-t throuj,'h tills l)eacli ; vrry small coasters enter them towards hipii water, and find de))th and shelter within. On the western si to 1' fathoms all ovti- Port San .Fiian the Ijottom fine n>iiddy sand : when within three-(Hiarters of a mile of the head it shoals to i fathoms, and here in heavy f,'ales the sea breaks : a flat extends 'A eahhs from the hi-ad. in the outer part of llie jx.rt there is generally a swell. Good anchorage will be found about Ij miles from the head in 7 fathoms. The coast. — I'rom Port San Juan the coast trends cast, aiini»'nco and l<»ss of tiinr. Beacons. — I'lin-r i-cd ihtc-Iu's mark tin t-astiTii imI^'i' of ilit' rlianiifl to Sookf wliarf, ami a hlatk iK-ri-h marks tlie weat side of the parirta^'f. tlirc.'-(|Uiirterrtof a c-aliU- S.W. Ity \V. J \V. from Trollope point. Directions. — On tlu* eastern wide of I lie (•i\iran(H' to Sooke inlet is a copper and Iron mint'. 'I'liere are alrto indications of coal in tiic district. WhiMin sjiit is low and irravelly : it must he rounded closely, as Kntry ledjje liesonlv half a cahle eastward from it. On roiindiny th(> jtoint dro]i the an(dior at one cahle within, in S fatli(nns. Anchorage. — There is ancliorajif outsiile in |(> fatlionis, half a mile oil' the entrance ; or, if lu-cessary, run inside Whiflin spit, where there is siillicienl sjtace to anchor; care must, however, he taken as to the depths on the Inir, and to the state of the tide in the entrance proper, where the ehh stmam at springs runs ah<»ut 15 or 1 knots. Tides and tidal streams. — it is high water, full and change, at 2h. llni. During the winter months th^ rise feet high, small and wooded, lies i cables 8.K. by E. from Possession point, and one mile sre, from which it is distant 1 .', cables. BEGHER BAY. — Heechey head is a wooded dill' forming the western entrance i»oint of Hecher liay ; ("hurch point being the eastern : and otf the eastern side are several small wooded islands, named Hedford islands. At three-quarters of a mile within in a northerly direction are Wolfe an>'■ AdinirRlt.v I'laii ntiiu-k ishmd, ncciipy a space alxmt lialf a mile in extent. (Jrcat l{acc is 1.', cables iu extent ami 'iH feet IukIi ; I'l*' <»iln rs ai'f smaller, a tVw I'ert al»ove iiif,'li water, or awash. The titlul streams run from .'» to 7 knots, and (hiring had weather, heavy, danj,'eroiis overfalls, and races occur. Ill liurlil winds sailini,'- vessels should i,'ive tlies*' islands a ^Mod hprth, esi)ecially when eastward of thfin. as the ehl) sets .stronjjly towards them. In IS(iOalar;je vessel was drifted on them hy tho ehl) stream in a calm, and hecamc a total loss. LIGHT. — From a stone li^'lithouse, painted in alternate hlack and white hands, situated on (Jreat Kace island, is exhihited, at an elevation of IIS feet ahove the sea, a lln.flnnii ir/u'lr lij,'ht, which shnwH line fliis/t every /I'n si'i'mifls, visihh' in clc > ■ iveather IH niiloH. Fog signal. — A steam-wiiistle is sounded at intervals of 7:1 scroiii/s during' thick or fogi,'y weather ; tl • duration of \\w bhiHt heiii^ //iv.' sffutulK. Ail additional si;jrnal lo he '/wvu in answer to he to<,' sifrnal of any steam-ves.sei env(do]jed in foj» in .luan de Fiica strait, and to indicate that the northern portion of that strait is free from foj;, as is often the case, is esUiblished at Race islands li<,'hthons<\ This signal consists of a steam whistle, which, under the ahove circumstances, will nfi : scalp, m = I inche«. ('hap. II.] ItACK FA«SA« iuehen. Cliai-. II.] KSgriMALT MAUHOUR. 77 formerly the foundatiuii of tlu' 7" li»'«iil of Foriter's pier, which has fiilh'U into ilecay, tlit-re lieiug now only a portion of the pier standing'. Inskip island. — Pock. — A sunken rock of sinall extent, with 5 feet on it at low water, lies near the southern shore of Plumper bay, with Dyke point be.icon N.W. by N. ] N., distant ',\ cables ; and north extreme of Inskip island, K. l>y X. | N. Tt is marked by a temporary buoy. There is a depth of 14 feet between this i-ock and Inskip island. Whale rock, or White rock, with 7 feet on it, lies 2 cables W. } N. from the outer Inskip ishmd, or nearly midway between il and the western siiore of the harlmur. Tliis rock is ttf small extent, and not marked by kelp ; it has a clear ])assafj'e on either side, that to the eastward beinard island, l)earing S. by K. ^^ E., leads nearly one cable westward; and Yew point in line with Rodd hill S. { E. leads nearly one cable eastward. The rock is marked by a buoy colotired red and black in vertical stripes, moored off its soutiiern side. Dyke point. — A white pyramidal Avooden beacon, 23 feet above high w^ater, is erected on Dyke point (at the head of (ho harbour). Anchoragre. — The most convenient anchorage is in Constance cove, on the eastern side of the harbour, immediately round Diintze head, the general (le])th being (i fathoms, and the holding ground good. There is, however, safe anchorage in any part of the harbour, in not less than 4i fathoms, as far northward as Dyke point. Thetis cove, in Plumper bay, on the eastern ;;ide of the harbour, inmiediately north of Constance cove, is a snug anchorage in 4.J; fathoms, with the harbour entrance just shut in by Inskip rocks ; but vessels jjroceeding above these rocks must take care to avoid Whale rock. Moorings and buoys, for the use of H.M. ships, occu])y the central })art of Constance cove ; and along the northern shore are lesser moorings for boats and small vessels. One cable otf the dock entrance are two buoys for docking purposes. And eastward of the town pier there are other buoys used as moorings for small craft. The depth at the outer end of Dockyard jetty is IT) feet at low water. jS^i- chart, No. l.Sit7«. 78 JTAX DK Vrv.\ STRAIT. [Chap. II. A direct south wind, to wliich .some parts of the harbour are open, seldom blows, and there is never sntficient swell to render the anchorage inconvenient. Observation spot. — Duntze head flagstaff is in lat, 4H^ 25' 49" N., long. 123° 2B' W W. DIRECTIONS. — After rounding Race island lightliouse, distant Hiniles, the lighthouse on Fisgard island will be seen: a course N. ^ W. direct for it will clear all dangers, but attention must be l»aid to the set of the tidal streams. Tive ebb streaTu runs almost directly from the Haro and ntighbour- ing straits towards the Race islands, and, unless with a comnu\nding wind, sailing-vessels should give them a wide berth, !ind steer N.E. by N. for I? or 4 miles, before bearing up for the harbour. The Hood sets N.K., and with light winds vessels are liable to be carried to the eastward, and if near to the Vancouver island shore, they may be set up the Haro channel, where the water is generally too deep for anchorage ; therefore, with the flood, the coast of Parry baj' should be kept aboard if possible, where good anchorage may be had in moderate weatlier. and with all westerly winds, at less than one mile fi'om the shore in 10 fathoms. Whea entering the harbonr under sail with a strong fair wind, take cai'e to shorten sail in time, a- the space for " rounding-to " is somewhat limited; and it is desirable to moor if iiuy stay is intended, as the winds are changeable. The best time for sailing-vessels to leave the harbour is early in the morning, when either a calm or light land wind may be expected ; there is little strength of tide in the harbour, or for some distance outside, and it sets fairly in and out. Caution. — Fisgard island should not be ])assed within one calde distant, as a rock with 7 feet over it lies three- quai'ters of a cable N.E. from the lighthouse. By nigrht, when Fisgard island light l)ears N. by W., steer for it. Keep the white light in full view ; if it becomes dim or shaded, the shore is being too closely ai)proached, when immediately haul out to the eastward until it is again distinctly seen ; the two lights (Race and Fisgard) by their bearings will show how the vessel is being affected bv the tides. Cliiip. II.] KSQriMAI/r HARBOUR. 7".t The irhite light is iiitemU'il to guide in from seaward, and whih' visible clears alike the western coast between Race island and Esi|aiin;ilt, and the off-lying dangers, Hcrogg rocks, and Brotchy ledge, between Dimtze head and Trial island. The ird light will be found useful by those bound to Victoria or Esquimalt from the eastward ; after rounding Trial island it will indicate a vessel's distance from the shore, and if bound to Esquimalt, a W.S.W. course will lead a safe distance outsiile Rrotchy ledge, until the light I'hanges from red to ir/iifc, when it may be steei-ed for, and not l)efore. Entering Esquimalt harbour, Fisgard island light should be left from one to two cables on the jnn-t hand ; when it l)ears X.W. by W. .', \V. the light changes from ic/iifr to /vy/, and shows the latter colour within the harbour: and when it l)ears S. by \V. at a convenient distance, a vessel may anchor in 7 fathoms, or stand into Constance cove if i)referre(l. The Scrogg rocks on the eastern side of the entrance of the harbour must be avoided ; they lie nearly 4 cables E.S.E. from Fisgard island. Dock. — The graving dock is -i')!) feet long over all, and -430 feel on the blocks : IJ.') feet wide at the entrance, wich a depth of 2t)^ feet over the sill at high watei- ordinary spring tides. This dock is closed l)y a caisson which, if necessary, can be placi'd on the outer side of the outer invert, giving an additional length to fclie doL-k of 30 feet. H.M.S. Warsjiiti', drawing 'ill feet, was docked on LSth July IbOl, the depth on the sill that night was ;28.j feet. See tides, page 12. The Admiralty have the right of priority of use of the Esquimalt dock. There is a marine railway capable of taking up a ship of 2,r)00 tons. Repairs to large machinery can be effected also to the hull of iron ships. Two tons of metal can be run at one time ; cylinders of ijO inches can l)e east and bored ; shafting of inches can be forged and turneil. a ;5-in. shaft up to 21 feet length; pipes of any size can be brazed, masts made and boats built. Sheer legs lift 2."» tons, small crane lifts 2 tons, and 20-ton crane about to be erected. The wharf is SI? feet long, with a depth of Itl feet alongside at low water. Supplies, with the excejttion of fresh beef and bread, must be obtained from Victoria. .*r chart, Xo. l.8»7«. 80 JUAN OK Fl'C.V STRAIT. [Chui). IJ. A t'roHli Wiiter service \h laid on al the dock ; the charf^e \h (5(1 cents per 1,000 ^alionH. Coal is weighed at the mines and sent down as required. Vessels of about 25 feet draught can coal alongside Tlietis island wharf. Vessels can coal alongside Esquimalt wharf ; on the eastern side of which there is a depth of 25 feet at low water. Or coal can l»e taken on board at all times froiu colliers or lighters. EluCtriC telegrraph,. — Esquimau is in telegraphic communica- tion with England iliroiigh Canada, by way of Nanainio and Fiurranl inlet. Also through the United States, by way of Seattle. Tides. — Al Escjuimalt harbour and in the vicinity there is no regular establishment. There are two titles in the lunar day foi- about half of each fortnight, and one tide in each lunar day for the other half, and this appears to be the case throughout the year. Springs rise 7 to 10 feet, neaps 5 to 8 feet. S/'o also nage 12. "Winds. — The strongest and most frequent gales blow from south- west and south-east, which are leading winds in, but rarely from N.W. The south-west is a summer wind, generally fresh, and l)rings tine weather, unless it blows a gale. South-east winds may be looked for during tlie winter months, or between November and March, and geut-rally a strong gale once a month with rain and thick weather. The north-east wind rarely blows with much strength, and always brings line clear weather. VICTORIA HARBOUR, 2 miles eastward from Esquimalt, has its entrance between Ogden and Maclaughlin points. Macaulay point, a remarkable projection nearly miihvay between th^^ two harbours, is a bare Hat point about iJO feet high, showing us a yellow clay cliff, worn by the action of the sea and weather into a rounded knob ft the extreme. The coast for one mile on either side of this point is fringed with sunken rocks, and is dangerous for boats in bad weather, many fatal accidents having occun-^'d.f Navigable depths. — The entrance to the harbour is shoal, narrow, and intricate, and with south-west or south-east gales a •f iSiv Admiralty plan : — Esquimalt and Victoria harbours, No. .">"ti: scale. /// =: G inch«8 ; also Victoria harbour, No. 1,81I7A ; scale. «/ = 10 inchef. Chap. 11.] VICTORIA HARBOUR. 81 heavy rolliner Hwoll sets on the coast, -vvhicli renders the anchorafjo outside unsafe. Vessels drawing,' 14 or lo feet may, nnder ordinary circumstances, enter at high water ; and sliii)s drawing 17 feet have entered, though only at the top of spring tides. At the entrance of thf harhour, on the southern side of Shoal point, there is a wharf which is used l)y the Han Francisco steamers. The pier is 000 feet in length and has a dei)th of 23 at low water. Along the eastern side of the harbour in front of the town there are about 400 yards of fair wharfage, with a depth of from 10 to IG feet at low water spring tides. Pilots. — There are pilots attached to the i)ort, who keep a good look out for vessels off the entrance. Pilotage is compulsory to all merchant vessels, except coasters. Pilots are seldom met with below Race rocks ; but between January and July, in moderate weather, those api)roaching Juan de Fuca strait, and requiring a pilot, may obtain a man comi)ett;nt to take them to Royal roads or port Townsend from the schooner's engaged in the seal fishery ofiC the coast, between cai)e Pifale and Clayoquot sound, at from 5 to 20 miles from the land. Sometimes in Neeah bay a pilot may be had if a gini is fired twice in quick succession. Guns are used by the sealing schooners in foggy weather, but only once in 10 or 1.') minutes, so that a gun fired twice in quick succession would not be mistaken. LIGHTS. — From a white lighthouse 150 feet high, situated on Berens island (west side of Victoria harbour), is exhibited, at an elevation of 44 feet above the sea, an oi-citltiiKj ivhife liglit, witli a period of twenty secomh, thus : — light, Ji/teen .seconds ; eclipse, Jire se'yjnds ; visible in clear weather 10 miles. It shovs a i-rd sector over lirotchy ledge, between N. 'M° W. and N. .^l)" W. Fog" signal. — A bell is rung during thick or foggy weather, in reply to signals frori those approaching the harbour. Shoal point spit beacon consists of three piles, i)ainted red, from the top of which a Ji.red red light is shown, visible in clear weather 3 miles. Pin rock beacon consists of three piles, painted black, from the top of which affixed white light is shown, visible in clear weather 3 miles. &« chart, No. 1,897*. 80 11948 82 JUAN DE FUCA STRAIT. [Cha]). II. Ah these two beacon lifrhts are not conHtautly watched they cannot be implicitly relied on. Brotchy ledge. — About f) cables from Holland point, and in the fairway to Victoria harbour from the eastward, lies the Hrotchy ledge with 5 feet on its shoalest part ; it is about one cable in extent within the r)-fathoms line. The tidal stream, at its maximum strength, sets towards Brotchy ledge at a rate of about 3 knots an hour This shoal is marked by a platform biioy, coloured red and black ii) horizontal stripes, moored on the shoal. The buoy is occasion- ally washed away during the heavy winter gales. Fisgard island lighthouse, north jiari of Brothers island, and ^'^acaulay i)oint in line bearing W. ^ N., leads one cable northward ot the ledge in 9 fathoms, between it and the shore ; and Fisgard island lighthouse, just open southward of Brothers island bearing \V. by N. ^ N., leads 2 cables southward of the ledge in 21 fathoms. A beiicon with red and white horizontal stripes is in course of construction on ikotchy ledge. From this beacon an electric light will be exhibited. Anchoragre. — When anchoring outside the harbour to wait tide, or from other causes, do not come within a line between Ogden and Maclaughlin i)()ints ; this is a good stopping place with off-shore winds or fine weather, 1)ut is by no means recommended as a safe anchorage for sailing-vessels during the winter months, when bad weather comes with little warning. Beaver rock, situated 250 yards N.E. | PI from Laurel point, has a depth of 1) feet over it at low water. Directions. — The entrance to Victoria harbour being only 2 miles eastward from Esquinialt, the same precautions as regards the tides {see page 715) must be observed when making for that harbour ; during daytime Victoria District church, a conspicuous white building with a spire, standing on an eminence, will be seen shortly after rounding Race islands, bearing N. by E. ] E. ; it should be kept just on the starboard bow. At night or during bad Aveather it is strongly recommended not to run for this harbour, as it can only be entered at certain stages of the tide, and the anchorage outside is at such times exposed and See chart, No. 1 ,897*. Chap. Ti.] VICTORIA HARnOUR. 8a iinaafo, wliile Royal bay, or KHcjuimalt harbour are always available and safe ; but if it is decided to run for Victoria, it munt be borne in mind that when Fisprard island li^'ht chanf,'e8 from white to red, a vessel will be very near the shore. The channel is buoyed {stee patre 14), but it is necessary for a stranj^er to take a pilot ; when within, the port is ])ert\'(!tly land- locked, and vessels may lie in from M to IS feet at low water, but the harbour accommodation is limited. Tides. — For all practical i)uri)oses the tides arc the same as at Esquimalt. See page 80. VICTORIA, the seat of the government, has a considerable foreign a!ul coasting trade. The resident population according to the census taken in ISO I was lOjSll, and the town has made great progress since ISoS, when it maybe said to have first spming into existence ; it now covers a large extent of ground, substantial and handsome stone and brick buildings everywhere replacing the wooden structures iirst erected. Victoria has excellent educational institutions, hosi)it;ils, and librarj', and the streets are lighted by the electric light. Harbour and pilot dues are charged ; and there ar(^ sick mariners' dues of 2 cents a ton register thrcK^ times a year on vessels of 100 tons and upwards, and once a year on vessels undei- 100 tons. Instances have been known of shocks of eartlKpiakes being felt at Victoria. Between Victoria and Quatsino sound, medical assistance can only be obtained at Alberni. Supplies. — Provisions of all kinds may be i)rocured, and water from a floating tank capable of going outside the harbour. Coal is weighed at the mines and sent down as required, but a large quantity is not kept in store. Vessels can coal alongside the ■wharves in the harbour, and also from the wharf on the south side of Shoal point. Patent slip. — There are slips on which vessels of 1,000 tons ca i be hauled up. *r chart, No. l,8'J7/-». SO 11948 F 3 8.1 JUAN DE PUCA STRAIT. [Chap. IT. Repairs cuu bo oflectt'd to large machinery. There are steam hiimmera and hithes to turn shafting 10 inches diameter and 20 feet long ; pipes of any size can be brazed ; cylinders of any diameter up to 10 tons can be cast and l)ored ; VI tons of metal can be run at one time. Sheers lift ;'>() tons. Boilers can be made, masts and boats can be built. Quarantine. — There is a (quarantine station for persons affected with infectious diseases ; and a hospital for seamen who are recommended for admission 1)y masters of vessels that have paid sick mariners' dues. The (juarantine station is in Parry bay. The wharf is 480 feet long, with depths of 2') to 150 feet alongside. See page 75. Telegrraph..— A submarine telegraph cable crosses Georgia strait and connects the city with the mainland of British Columbia, and another crosses Juan de Fuca strait to Washington territory. Communications. — 'There is steam communication with San Francisco every five days ; and with Alaska every fortnight throughout the year ; a tri-weel ly service to the east coast of Vancouver island, and a daily service to Port Moody, except on Mondays ; and steamers run daily, except on Sundays, to the ports in Pnget sound. There is daily communication with Nanaimo by rail. There is a fortnightly mail service between Victoria, Port Renfrew, Alberni, Ucluelet, Clayoquot and Ahousat ; and monthly from Victoria, Hesipiiat, Xootka, Kyutjuot, and Quatsino. Victoria to Burrard inlet. — The best route from Victoria to Burrard inlet is south of Trial and Discovery islands, through the main channel of Haro strait, and northward of Stuart and Waldron islands into Georgia sti'ait. Only those with good local knowledge should attempt to navigate the inner channels. The COAST from Victoria harbour trends easterly for 1^ miles to Clover point, and is for the most part faced by white sandy cliffs, from 10 to 80 feet high ; over a sandy beach, and at one cable off, in many places are rocks and foul ground. Two cables East from Holland point are Glimpse reefs, which cover at three-quarters flood Sir chart, No. 576. Chap. IT.] VICTORIA.— TRIAL ISLANDS. 8& Beacon hill, a gontlc rirtc of the land near the coast, and one mile P^ast from Victoria harbour, iH 1 10 feet hij,'h, j,M'assy, and no trees. Clover point, at 2 miles eastward from the entranct^ to Victoria harbour, is low, bare of trees, and projecting? ; it is steep-to, ai\d oil" it strong tide rips form, which are danj^crons to boats. Uoss bay, eastward of it, is open, bnt sometimes used by small craft waiting tide.* Telegrraph.. — The submarine telegra^jh cable connecting Vancouver island with the United States is laid from Clover point to New Dungeness. Foul bay, nearly one mile N.E. from Clover point, is of small extent and filled with rocks. Oil" its entrance are the Ti'inplar rocks, with a depth of about 4 feet on them. Foul point, on the eastern side of Foul bay, is rocky, but the land at the back of the point rises to a height of "SM) feet, forming a rocky ridge known as Gonzales hill. TRIAL ISLANDS, nearly 1^ miles eastward from Clover point, are two in number, bare and rocky, but they generally appear as one. The southern or larger island is 80 feet high, and steep-to at its outer end ; the northern one is low, and from it foul ground extends some distance. Strong tide ripples ])»evail off the southern island, especially during the flood, which runs nearly G knots at springs just outside it. INNER CHANNELS.— The inner channels leading from Juan de Fuca strait into the Haro strait are the Enterprise, Mouatt, Mayor, and Baynes channels, and Hecate and Plumper passages. These channels should not be used by strangers.* Enterprise channel, between Trial islands and the Van<'<>uvcr shore, is tortuous, bnt tiucli used by steam-vessels and coasters trading to Victoria harbour, as a slight saving of distance is effected, and less tidal stream experienced than by going southward of the Trial islands ; it is about one mile long, and half a cable wide, in the narrowest place, and there are not less than 24 feet water in the shoalest part. * tS('i- Admiralty chart : — Inner channels, from .Tuan de Fuca strait to Haro strait. No. 577 ; scale, m = 6 inches. 86 JUAN DB PUCA STRAIT. [CImi). II. McNeil Imy, uu tho north(*rii mUi of tim chiuinol, eiiRtwiird of Foul point, is i\ c!il)lfH ill oxtont, with from 2 to tl fiiilioiiis ; uii feet on it ; if going through Hecate passage it requires to be guarded against. Cadboro point, open west- ward of Channel point N.N.W. I W., leads one cable eastward of this ledge. Seti chart, No. 577. K8 JUAN DE FUCA STRAIT. [Chap. II. Caroline reef, at the northern part of the group, and connected to it by a rocky ledge, is small and covers at quarter flood, but is well out of the fairway. Foul ground extends upwards of one cable westward from it. DISCOVERY ISLAND is 2 miles N.E. from Gonzides point, at the junction of the Haro and Juan de Fuca straits. It is wooded, about three-quarters of a mile in extent, and its shores on all sides are bordered by rocks, extending in some places more than 2 cables off. Kudlin bay, on its south-east side, is filled with rocks, and should not be used by any vessel. A rock with 9 feet over it lies with Seabird point bearing N. by K. I E., distant 4 cables. Another rock with 15 feet over it lies close N.N.W. of the above rock. LIGHT.— From a white lighthouse 47 feet high, situated on the east extreme of Discovery island, is exhibited, at an elevation of 1»I feet above high water, a fi.vcd white light, visible between the bearings N. 31° E., through west, and S. 12^ E., visible in clear weather 15 miles. Fog" signal. — A steam horn is sounded for 8 seconds followed by one minute silence. CHATHAM ISLANDS, north-west of Discovery island, and separated from it by a narrow boat pass, are of small extent, low, woodeil, and almost connected with each other at low water ; the tidal streams set with great strength between them. Leading point, the south extreme, is a bare rocky islet at high water ; to the eastward of it is a small boat cove. Channel point, their west extreme, is also bare and steep-to. Strong Tide islet, the north-western of Chatham islands, is rocky, about .50 feet high, and wooded ; its western side forms the eastern boundary of Baynes channel, and is steep -to. Refuge cove, on the eastern side of Chatham islands, is small, and has a depth of 1^ fathoms in the centre; coasters or small craft entangled among these islets may find shelter in it. Alpha islet, the easternmost of the group, is bare, and 10 feet above high water ; only a boat should attempt to go westward, or inside it. See chart, No. 5<7. Chap. II.] DISCOVERS ISLANDS. SD Fulford reef, o cables North from the Chatham islands, is about one cable in extent, and covers at one-third flood. When using Baynes channel keep well to the westward to avoid this reef, as the tidal streams set iri ^gularly in its vicinity. Hecate and Plumper passafires.—Discovery island is separated from Chain islets by a passage half a mile wide, forming an apparently clear channel ; but near the middle of the southern part lies Centre rock, which has 3 feet over it. There is a passage on either side of this danger, the western named Hecate, and the eastern Plumper passage. The latter is wider, but the tidal streams set very strongly through both of them. Cadboro point, open westward of Channel point bearing N.N.W. 5 W., leads through Hecate passage In mid-channel, westward of Centre rock. Baynes channel, between Cadboro point and the Chatham islands, is one mile long and half a mile wide ; the depths in it are irregular, and the tidal streams at springs set through it 4 to (5 knots, strongest along the eastern side. Five-fathoms shoal, which lies in the centre of the channel, is not marked by keip. Nearly one cable N.W. from it is another shoal with 16 feet on it ; it lies 3| cables E.N.E. from Jemmy Jones islet. To avoid it, keep a little over on either side of mid-channel. CADBORO POINT, on Vancouver island, at the termination of the Inner channels, is nearly i) miles North from Gonzales point, and three-tjuarters of a mile N.W. from the Chatham islands. It is about .50 feet high, rocky and bare of trees. A small islet lies just off it, also ii reef which covers ; when passing do not approach the islet within 2 cables. The coast wost from Cadboro point to Cadboro l)ay Is low, very much broken, and there are some off-lying rocks. Jemmy Jones islet, which is bare and 1.') feet above high water, lies .3 cables off shore, and 4i cables S. by W. from Cadboro point ; foul ground extends around it for ujnvards of one cable in some parts, and none except small craft should go betv^eeu it and the shore. See chart, No. 677. 90 J'^'AN DB FUCA STRAIT. [Chap. II. Directions. — Thon<,'h the Inner channels are deep, tliey Hhonld not be used except by steam- vessels, or by small crafr, unless in cases of necessity, and a knowledge of the tide is indispensable. Coasters and small steamers, when taking advantage of them, generally proceed through Mayor channel. If using this channel, after passing Gonzales point keep the western side of Great Chain islet in line with Channel point bearing N. by K. | K. till within 2 cables of the islet, when the north end of Mary Todd island will be in line with the north i)oint of Harris island and the vessel will be clear of the Thames shoal, after which steer to the north-west, i)ringing the highest part of Trial island in line with Gonzales point bearing S. ;[ W., and Avith that mark on astern, st((er N. § E., which will lead l)etween Fiddle and Lewis reefs, anil on through Baynes channel, to Haro strait, taking care, however, to avoid the patch of 10 feet lying close to the Five-fathoms shoal, as this mark leads only half a cable westward of the patch. When past Lewis and Fi'iiUe reef, steer N.N.K., and pass out of Baynes channel between Five-fathoms shoal and Strong Tide islet. Going through Mouatt channel, which is very narrow and seldom used, after rounding (Jonzales point one cable distant, bring the highest part of Trial island in line with the point bearing S, i| W., and keeping this mark on astern, and steering N. \ E., will lead through clear of danger. Hecate and Plumper passages are nearly straight. If using either of them, after i)assing either through Enterprise channel, or south- Avard of Trial islands, bring the leading mai'ks (page 8'.*) on, and keep them so till uortlnvard of Centre rock, when steer up in mid-channel between Chain islets and Chatham islands, N.W. by W., towards Cadboro bay, and through Baynes channel into Haro strait. Tides and tidal streams.— The high water at full and change is irregular and much influenced l)y prevailing winds; the greatest rise and fall of ticU' at Discovery island is \2 feet. During summer months in these channels, the flood stream cuu'mences at ILLO a.m., running with great strength till nearly ;5 j).m., after which but little stream is felt till 4 a.m. on the following day, when the ebb commences and runs strongly till nearly 11 a.m., the time of low water bv the shore. /Set! uhiirt, No. 577. Chap. IJ.] IXNER CHANNELS, DIRECTIONS, TI 3ES. 91 CONSTANCE BANK, in Juan do Fuca strait, nearly «> niiloH S.E. by E. from Fisj,'ard island liju'lithoiise, in upwanls of one mile in extent, with depths of from 'J to It fathoms, but do not anchor on it as the bottom is rocky.* FONTE BANK, known also as Ilein bank, within the (U>pths of 10 fathoms, is al)out 1^ miles in vxUmt ; it lias dejjths of from iilj to 5 fathoms on it, and lies nearly in the middle of Juan de Fuca strait, 8 miles K. l)y S. from Discovery island li^'ht. This bank should be avoided, as there may be less Avater on it tlian shown in the chart. HARO STRAIT, the westernmost of the three channels leading from Juan de Fuca strait into (Jeorgia strait, is boundeil on the western side by Vancouver island, and its olf-lying smaller islands and reefs, and on the eastern side by San Juan and Stuart islands, and trends in a N.W. by N. direction for 1<'>ntially adapted (o steam Jiavigation, or to coasting vessels ; they aiford smooth water, and many of them anchorages. * >Sfi! Admiralty chiirt :— Haro stniit and Middle chaunul, No. 2,840 ; Hoale, = one inch, 92 HARO AND GEORGIA STRAITS. [Ohap. II Middle bank, lying in the southern entrance of Haro strait, 4 miles E. by N. from Discovery island, and almost in mid-channel, is a rocky patch about 2 miles in extent each way, and the least water found on it is 10 fathoms. In bad weather there are heavy tide ripplings on and in the vicinity of this bank, which are dangerous to boats or small craft. Zero rock, one of the principal dangers in the southern part of Haro strait, lies on the western side of the strait, is about lialf a cable in extent, and covers at three-quarters flood ; it lies G^ miles N.W. from Discovery island light. A rocky patch, part of which nearly uncovers at low water springs, lies .^^ cables N.N.W. ^ W., from Zero I'ock. Discovery island light is obscured in the direction of Zero rock, and westward of it. The beacon on this rock is the frustum of a cone in stonework above which rises a pole surmounted by open slat-work in the form of a triangle, point upwards. The top is 28 feet above high water. Kelp reefs, three-quarters of a mile in extent, lie almost in the centre of Haro strait, 7 miles N.N.W. ^ W. from Discovery island light. They uncover at low springs. The eastern edge of the reefs is marked by a stone beacon 20 feet high, with staff and globe. The buoy previously marking the reefs has been withdrawn. Darcy island. — A shoal patch of 3 fathoms lies northward of Darcy island, with Whale rock and South Dot rock in line. Unit rock lies three-quarters of a mile E. by N. ^ N. from the south-east point of Darcy island, and uncovers 2 feet at low tides. Bare island well open northward of the south-east point of Sidney island, bearing N.W. \ W.. leads eastward of Kelp reefs and Unit rock. Anchorages. — Although there are harbours in Haro strait and its tributary channels, the number eligible for sailing-vessels over- taken by darkness, or an adverse tide, is small. See chart, No. 2,840. Chap. II.] DIRECTIONS. 93 Between Cormorant bay and the northern entrance of Haro strait, Plumper sound and Cowlitz bay are the only eligible stopping places for a sailing-vessel seeking shelter. Stuart island has two fair harbours, and Roche harbour at the north-west end of San Juan island is a suitable anchorage for steam- vessels or small coasters, but no sailing-vessel of moderate tonnage could enter either under ordinary circumstances without great loss of time, as well as risk. CAUTION. — As previously mentioned on pages IC and 2G, seamen are again cautioned that, when navigating the inner waters of British Columbia, it should be constantly borne in mind that many of the main channels and most of the minor passages have only been roughly examined ; detached boulders from the broken shores and pinnacles of rock are still frei|uently found. Whenever, therefore, a broad and clear channel is known to exist, there is no justification in using, without necessity, one of more doubtful character, even if there is some saving in distance, and a ship should always be maintained in the safest possible position in a channel as well as ■when going in or out of port. DIRECTIONS.— Haro and Georgia straits.— After rounding Discovery island, distant one mile, steer N.N.W. ^ W., or for Kellett bluff, a remarkable steep rocky headland. In working up, when standing westward, tack when the north-west extreme of Low island comes in line with the south-east point of Sidney island, which will give the Zero rock a good berth ; but when approaching the Kelp reefs, Bare island must be kept well open eastward of the same point to avoid them. When abreast Kellett bluff, at from half a mile to one mile distant, a N.W. by N. course will pass the same distance from Turn point of Stuart island. There are no known dangers oft' this point ; but whirling eddies and tide ripplings, caused by the meetings of the streams from so many channels, are generally met with, particularly on the ebb. A vessel may reach this point with a fresh southerly wind, but will almost invariably lose it here, until having opened out Middle channel eastward of San Juan. After rounding Turn point, a N.E. h N. course for 10 miles leads to the northern entrance of Haro strait, between the East point of Saturna and Patos islands. This passage is 2^ miles wide, but iB Sae chart, No. 2,8^0. iH HARO STRATT, [Chap. II. Hubjoct to heavy tide ripplin^H and eddies ; when possible pass throu<,'li tlie centre of it, steering for the white cliffs of point Robert. Orcas Nob, well open eastward of Waldron island bearing S.8.E. \ E., leads through in mid-channel ; do not bear away westward until the south end of Sncia is shut in Avith soutli -jnd of Patos island. At night, after passing between kSaturna and Patos Islands, maintain a northerly course for about 2 or 3 miles, and then if the light on Georglna point, at the entrance to Active pass, is not visible, steer N.W. mitil it is sighted, remembering that this light becomes obscured when it bears southward of W. h S., and, as whilst it is in view all (hmgurs on the southern shores of the strait will be avoided, be careful to keep it In sight and by no means stand south- ward of the above line of bearing. The flood stream from Rosario strait, which is met with as soon as the passage between Orcas and Sucia islands is open, is apt to set a vessel towards the East point of Haturna, off which and Tumbo island there is much uneven and broken ground with heavy tide races. This point should be given a berth of 1^ miles, taking care to avoid a dangerous rock lying 7^, cables N.N.E. from Race point, Tumbo island. The ebb stream sets eastward even before Georgia strait is well open, and if not likely to woath(T Patos, ])ass between it and Rucia, where there is a good clear passage of above one mile wide ; if this passfige is taken, the Patos island shore should be kept rather aboard. Beware of the Plumper and Clements reefs ; the former lies 1 j- miles S.W. by S. from the north-west bluff of Sucia island, and has 10 feet on it ; the latter the sanio distance N.E. .\ N. from the same bluff, and has 8 feet over it. When in Georgia strait, from W. by N. to W.N.W. is a fair mid- channel course. If bound for Eraser river, a N.W. by W. course from the centre of the channel between Patos island and East point of Saturna will lead to the Sand heads, a distance of nearly 20 miles. Entering the strait and having passed northward of Patos island, if the ebb stream is running, a sailing vessel is extremely liable, unless with a commanding breeze, to be set eastward and down Rosario channel. The northern shore of Sucia island should by all means be avoided ; if Alden bank can be reached it offers a good anchorage while See chart, No. 2,840. Chap IT.] niRBCTIONS. — TIDES. 05 waiting for a tide. Alden point, tho west point of Patos island, in line with Monarch head, a bold cliff j* bluff, boaring S.W. h W., leads over the northern edge of this bank in from (5 to fathoms. {Scr view A on chart 2,(18'.).) When mount Constitution is in line with the centre of Matia island, bearing H.S.K. }^ E., a de])th of 1) fathoms may bo expected, and do not anchor in much less than this depth, as in the shoaler parts, rocky ground is found ; the least water on the bank is 2\ fathoms. Against a foul wind and ebb stream woi'k up on tho northern shore ; there are no known dangers, little stream when eastward of a line between Roberts point and Alden bank, and anchorage may always bo had within one mile of the shore if necessary. Birch and Scmiahmoo baj'S offer good anchorage, and are easy of access. In working up Georgia strait the southern shore should never be approached within 2 miles until westward of Active pass, and then not within one mile ; the tides sweep strongly along this shore, and there are several outlying reefs between East i)oint and Active pass. As soon aa the strait is entered from the southward, Rol)erts point will show its eastern part as a bold white-faced cliff, its western as a low shingle point ; its summit is covered with trees, and it wouhl at first sight be taken for an island in conse(pience of the land on its northern side falling rapidly in elevation. After passing northward of this point, its low-water extreme, or the trees just within it, must not be brought to bear southwai'd of E. .V S. to avoid Roberts bank, which extends 5 miles off Eraser river entrance, is steep-to, and shoals suddenly from 25 to 2 fathoms. Tidal streams. — The tidal streams set fairly through the main channel of Haro strait, outside Kel}) reefs, and inside them through Cordovaand Sidney channels ; passingoutside Kel]) reefs andeastward of Sidney It^land, a part of the flood stream branches eastward between San Juan and Stuart islands, and there meeting the flood from Middle channel, cause heavy races and eddies, so that although there are deep Avater channels between these islands, they are not recom- mended for sailing-vessels. In like manner the flood runs N.W. between the group of islands, northward of Sidney island, and through Shute and Moresby passages, though the main stream will be found to run fairly between Stuart and Moresby islands. See chart, No. 2689. 96 HARO STRAIT. [Chap. II. JOHNSTONE REEF, on which there is a depth of r> or feet, lies three-quartern of a mile from the sliore, midway between Cadboro point and Gordon head ; it is of small extent. A rock, on which is a depth of 2 fathoms, with 11 to 20 fathoms aroimd, lies 2} cal)les S.S.W. from the south-eastern rock of Johnstone reef, v'ith Oadboro point bearing S.p]. CORMORANT BAY, between Gordon and Cowitchin heads, on the western side of Haro strait, is a good stopping-place and easy of access under most circumstances. It may be entered either to the southward or northward of Zero rock ; the passage to the southward is 1^ miles in l)readth, with a depth of 20 fathoms. Mount Douglas, a remarkable hill G9rt feet high, with its summit bare of trees, rises immediately over the coast at the head of the bay. Three shoal patches, with from G to 12 feet water on them, lie from one to li miles W. h S. from Zero rock, but there is a clear passage of nearly one mile in width, with 20 fathoms water, between the rock and the nearest shoal. The tidal streams are not much felt in Cormorant bay when west- ward of Zero rock, and the holding ground is good. This anchorage is exposed to S.E. winds, but a vessel with good ground tackle will always be perfectly safe. PLUMPER SOUND. — If necessary to anchor in Haro strait between Stuart island and the east point of Saturna island, Plumper sound is recommended as safe and convenient, easy of access with the wind from any quarter. The entrance lies 5 miles N.N.E. i E. from Turn point, and an equal distance from Saturna lighthouse. Blunden (Douglas) island,* close to the shore of Pender island, with only a boat passage (choked with rocks and kelp) between, forms the western entrance point ; Monarch or Java head (Saturna island), a high bold rocky headland, the eastern. There is anchorage in a moderate depth of water in most parts of it, and little tide is felt. The water is too deep for convenient anchorage, the first two miles being generally from 25 to .'■)0 fathoms, except on the southern side, where if necessary an anchor may be dropped at a quarter of a mile from the shore, in from 10 to 12 fathoms. * It is stated that a local pilot obtained a cast of 22 feet in the tide rip charted at 1^'a miles East from Blunden island. In 1895 a line of sounding was taken over this spot from H.M.S. Nymphe, when no bottom was obtained at 70 fathoms. See chart, No. 2,840. Chap. II.] PLUMPER SOUND. 97 At 2 mili'8 within tho drpth ilecreaHos rather suddenly to 10 fathoms, and oxceUoiit anchoraj,'!' may be liad in almost any part; tho most convoniont is ofl' tlu' t-ntranci' to port Browning on the southern side in S fathoms, at half a mile from the shore, with the eastern ))oint of liluuden island just open of the land westward of it, bearing K. i S. A rocky patch of small extent, with TO feet on it, and steep-to. lies on the eastern sid(^ of Phim])er sound, with Oroker jmint 2i| cables E. by S. The western extrenu of Fane islet, in line with the north-east extreme of Pender island, loads south-westward of tho patch. Above i)ort Browning avoid Perry rock, with (> feet on it ; it is 2 cables from the shore, and three-quarters of a mile N.W. by N. from Razor point. Port Browning: is on the southern side of IMnmper sound ; it is one-third of a mile wide, bxat rather less at the entrance. The depth decreases from 10 fathoms at the entrance to 4 fathoms at its head, with good holding ground. The best anchorage is in the centre just above Shark cove, which is a convenient creek, with 4 fathoms in it, on the southern side of the harbour, three-ijuarters of a mile within the entrance ; here a ship might beach and repair on a sandy spit. Shark cove is separated from Bedwell harbour by an isthmus l.'iO yards wide, across which the natives launch their canoes. Lyall harbour is in the south-east comer of Plumper sound, and its southern entrance point, Elliot bluff (cliffy), bears N. i E. distant 2 miles from the entrance to Port Browning. King isletft two low rugged islets, with a reef extending nearly one cable of! their western end, form the northern entrance, which is half a mile wide. The harbour trends easterly 1| miles, gradually narrowing and terminating in a sandy beach with a stream of good fresh water at its head ; the depths decrease regularly from i< to 4 fath(jms. Crispin rock, with 6 feet on it, is a pinnacle, exactly in the middle of the harbour, half a mile E. by S. from outer King islet ; there is, however, a clear passage on either side of it 1^ cables wide, and when anchoring above it, drop the anchor in 5 fathoms, at half a mile from the beach at the head of the harbour. See chart, No. 2,840. 80 1194b 1)8 HAflO STRAIT. [Cha]). IT. The anchomgo outsido ('rispin rock is with outer Kiii^r inh^t ht'iiriii},' N.W. by N., diHtant oiu'-thinl of a mil*', in 7 fathoinH, iniuldy bottom. Boot cove, oil the Bouthern Hich; of the harbour, has '.\ fathoujs water, and is a convenient wpot for re))airinff a vessel ; a small islet lies off its western entrance jjoint. Sa.IIluel island, between Saturna and Mayne islands, is almost connectetl with both, but leaving? two passages by which boats or even small coasters niiiy |)ass into Geor^nii strait at projjer times of tide. Winter cove is between Samncl island and the north-west point of Saturna. The depths beiiii,' from 2 to '^ fathoms it is only lit for small vesstds. ('easting vessels might take the passage at slack watei', or l)oats overtaken in the strait by bad weather might take shelter under the lee of Belle chain, and enter Plump«'r scmnd by this pass on the Hood tide. Water is easily obtainable during the winter or rainy months from streams in almost any part of Plumper sound. At the head of Lyall harbour or port Ih-owning, constantly in the former, a certain ([uantity may be procured during the driest months of summer from .June to August. NAVY CHANNEL is a continuation of the western part of Plumper sound, and leads to Georgia strait or Fmser river by Active pass ; or to Nanaimo, or any of the north-western ports of Vancouver island. Conconi reef lies about midway through Navy channel, 1| miles from Fane island, and nearly 2 cables off the northern shore, and narrows the strait at that part to one-third of a mile. It is a ledge of rocks extending in the direction of the channel for more than one cable, covering at half tide ; and a patch of 2 fathoms extends nearly 2 cables westward fi'om it. The general depth of water in the channel is from 20 to ){0 fathoms. Enterprise reefs are two rocky patches, the westernmost of which is covered at a quarter flood. The outermost of these reefs lies one mile W.N.W. from Dinnei- point, the north-west entrance point of Navy channel. A patch of 2 fathoms lies 2 cables E.S.p]. from the westernmost rocky patch. Sfe chart. No. 2.840. • * Chap. II.] PLUMPER SOUND. 99 Beacon. — A white beacon 22 feet above lnf?h water Btands on Rnterpriwo reef, near itH western extremity ; to the pyramidal framework of the beacon are tixeil two disks at right anj^les to each other. Directions. — When using Navy cliunnel, keep rather southward of mid-channel. When bound throupli Trinconiali channel or Active pass, steer over towards Prevost island until Pelorus point (the east point of Moresby island) is open of Mouatt point (the west point of Pender island), bearing S.E. ^ S. ; then haul up N.W. i( N., keeping the marks just open, which will lead over one-third of a mile to the westward of Enterprise reefs. Set; View C, on chart No, 2,840. When Helen point, which is a low bare yellow point, bears N. by K., or the northern beacon comes well o|)en v/estward of the southern one, steer for the entrance (»f Active ])ass, or shajje course up the Trincomali channel. Tidal streams. — The flood stream 'from the Swanson channel runs through Navy channel to the eastward, and meets the flood in Plumper sound, causing a slight ripple at the eastern entrance ; its strength is upwards of ,T knots. BEDWELL HARBOUR, the entrance to which lies .Smiles west- ward from the southern entrance of Plumper sound, is, on account of its narrow entrance, not so eligible a stopping place for waiting the tide as the latter ; but for steam-vessels it is a good harbour. Its narrowest part, which is at the entrance, is a quarter of a mile wide, but it soon opens out to half a mile, and trends W.N.W. for 2 miles, with depths of from .5 to 10 fathoms, mud bottom. The only known danger which does not show is Drew rock, with 10 feet on it, in the centre of the harbour, one-third of a mile from its head ; there is, however, no necessity to go as far up as this. The most convenient anchorage is in a bay on the northern shore, two-thirds of a mile within the entrance, in 8 fathoms, midway between Hay point and Skull reef ; the latter always shows some feet above high water. Gamp bay, between Bedwell harbour and Plumper sound, and half a mile westward of Blunden island, offers shelter as a stopping place to small craft, when not convenient for them to work into either of these ports. S*e chart, No. 2840. SO 11948 02 100 HAno STRAIT. [Chap. IT. STUART ISLAND, 3 miien N.W. from the northern part of San Juan iHland, Ih '.\ uuIvh Umf( in an east and went direction, and 042 feet hif,'h, the HunimitH of the hillH bein^' i)artially bare of trees. There are two anciionij»t'8 in Stuart inliind, Reid harbour on its southern Hide, aiid Prevopt harbour on its northern, but botli are HUiall and intricate for rtaiIinj,'-veHHels hvrjjfer tiian coaHterH. Turn point, the north-wewt extn-nu' of Stuart inhmd, is a bohl cliffy bluff. LIGHT. — Turn point light isy/./vy/ ii'hitr of small i)owt>r, i'xhibited from a white st^vft" li') feet above high water. The fog signal house, and the ktn'per's dwtdling, each painted white with brown roofs, are situated close south-eastward of the light staff. "Fog sigrnal. — Turn point fog signal is a Daboll trunii)et, which during thick or foggy weather gives blasts of tfiree seconds duration, separated by silent intervals of twenty seven seconds. Reld harbour. — When entering Reid harbour from the south- ward, beware of being drawn by the flood stream into the channel between San .Juan and Stuart islands, where there are sev(*ral dangers, and the tidal streams are most irregular in their direction. The south-west side of Stuart island should, therefore, be tirst closed. The harbour is one mile N.W. from Spieden bluff (a remarkable bare grassy point, generally of a yellow colour), the western extreme of the island of the same name. Gossip island lies in the entrance, from which a shoal extends 1^ cables W. by N.; leave it on the starboard hand when entering. The channel is 1| cables wide with depths of from 4 to .') fathoms. The btbt anchorage is off an Indian village on the southern side at abouf half a mile within the entrance. Prevost harbour, on the northern Bide of Stuart island, 1^ miles eastward from Turn point, has James island lying in the centre of it. The entrance is westward of this island, between it and Charles point, and is about 2 cables wide. Anchor in 6 fathoms as soon as the eastern arm opens out, or run up the arm into 4^ fathoms ; here it is narrow, but prefectly sheltered. ^^'^ chart, No. 2,84g, n y C\\ii\f. II.] STUAHT IhI.aKO.— .SlMKDKN t'HANNKL. Tliorc is MO rthij) piiHsuiri' euHtwunl of .!ainc8 isliind. 101 Johns island li«'rt fiistwanl of ^^tuart islaiifl, Boparatotl from it '>y a navij^abU' chaiuiel narin^w and n<»t recommtMuled. Sevenvl islets and rocks, all abovt^ water, extend three-iiuarters'of a niilo S.K. from tin- eastern (^nd of Johns island ; the flonthenunost of those are named Cactus islands. Onll reef, 2 feet above high water, lies half a mile W. ^ N. from Cactns islands ; rocks extend easterly from it more than one cable. SPIEDEN ISLAND, lying between San Juan and Stuart islands, is 2| miles long in an east and west direction, and very narrow ; its southern side grassy and l)are of trees, its summit and northern side thickly woodeil ; Green point, its eastern t'xtreme, is a sloping grassy point. There is a channel on both sides of Spieden island ; but from the strength and irregularity of the tidal streams, antl the hidden dangers which exist in certain parts of them, they cannot be recommended for sailing-vessels, nor indeed to any vessel without a pilot. Spieden Oliannel, between Spieden island and San Juan, has a general W. by S. and E. by N. direction. Sentinel islanil li'?8 in the western entrance of this channel, it is about loO feet high ; the passage between it and Spietlen island is more than one cable wide with a depth of 25 fathoms. When using Spieden channel keep Spieden island shore aboard, and pass between it and Sentinel island. There is much less tide here than in the centre of the channel, or on the San Juan shore. Sentinel rock lies 2 cables W. by N. ^ N., from the island. Centre reef is a dangerous patch, awash at low water, lying almost in the centre of the channel, half a mile S.W. by S. from Sentinel island. Both the flood stream from Haro strait, and the ebb stream through Spieden channel set on to the reef ; therefore, when nearing it, the San Juan shore should be kept aboard, avoiding the shoal which lies 1^ cables N. by W. \ W. from Bare islet. Danger shoal has 2 fathoms on it, and lies three-quarters of a mile S.S.W. I W. from Spieden bluff. Bare islet, a rock about 15 feet high, lies in the southern part of the channel, one mile E. by N. ^ N. from Morse island. A shoal patch of 15 feet lies nearly Ij^ cables N. by W. } W, from the islet ; depths of from 15 to 5 fathoms extend See cbart, No. 2,840. 102 HARO STRAIT. [Chap. II. nearly 'i cables westward from the patch. A black can buoy in 6 fathoms marks the north-west extreme of the shoal ground. Directions. — Bound eastward through the Spieden channel, pass about a quarter of a mile northward of Morse island, and then steer N.E. by E. ^ E. for Green point (the east extreme of Spieden island) until Sentinel island bears N.N.W. ; the dangers in the western entrance will then be passed, and a straight course may be steered through ; bearing in mind that less tide will be found near Spieden island shore. Bound westward through this channel, if the passage between Spieden and Sentinel islands is not taken, the shore of Spieden island should be kept aboard to avoid the tide races. If Centre reef is awash, or the kelp on it is seen, pass a quarter of a mile Soi&th of it, and steer to ptiss the same distance northward of Morse island. If Centre reef is not seen, take care not to bring Morse island to bear southward of S.W., until Bare islet bears S.E. New channel northward of Spieilen island, though narrower than the one just described, is deep, more free from danger, and the navigation of it more simple ; the channel is a quarter of a mils wide between Spieden and Cactus islands, and care should be taken not to get entangled among the reefs northward of the latter. The flood stream sets north-eastward among them ; but it also sets fairly through New channel, and by keeping the Spieden island shore aboard, there will be no danger of being set to the northward ; the ebb stream runs south-westward between Spieden and Johns islands. SAN JUAN ISLAND, the western coast of which forms for some distance the eastern boundary of Haro strait, is 13 miles in length in a N.W. anil S.E. direction, with an average breadth of about 4 miles. Its western coast is steep and rocky, and affords no anchorage. Mount Dallas rises abruptly 1,086 feet, but the eastern side of the island falls in a more gentle slope, and affords a considerable extent of good land available for agricultural or grazing purposes. Towards the southern end, and visible from seaward, are some white buildings, the farming establishment of the Hudson bay company ; the south-eastern extreme terminates in a white clay cliflP, over which rises mount Finlayson to a height of 5.50 feet. See chart, No, 2,840. I m la >^f chap. 11.] NEW CHANNEL.— KOCH K HARBOUR. \m remarkable as iKMnff entirely clear of trees on its southern side, while it is thickly wooded on the northern. There is a ch-an f»ravel beach under mount Finlayson, where boats can generally land. Off the north-west end of San .Juan lies Henry islaml, only separated from it by a narrow channel 'Mosciuito passivge) ; it might be easily taken for a part of San Juan, the passage appearing merely as an indentation in the latter. Open bay has more the appearance cf a channel than Mosijuito nasKage. There is no shelter in the l>ay, or anchonige in the passage, for anything but coasters. Mosquito passage trends in a northerly direction for l\ miles, is a little over hall" a mile in I)readtli, and is studdeil with numerous reefs. Westcott creek branches of! N.E., and affords a haven for coasters. There is a :2-t'athoms channel through the passage, and into this creek. I Roche harbour, between San .Juan ami Henry islands, is land- locked, and half a mile in i-xtent with depths of from 10 I'athoiiis about a (inartt'i- of a mile oil' shore, Imt is not by any means such a de.sirable place as (Jowlitz bay, the bank l)olng rather steep, and the tidal streams more felt. SATURNA ISLAND and PATOS ISLAND, between whieh is the iiortlutru entrance to lluro strait ju>.t tlescriljotl, are marked l)y 1 ights. LIGHTS.— Saturna or East point ligrht is i-rndviiKj whiir, attaining its greatest brilliancy every tliirtij scrondu, visible l)et\veen N. :V.»° K., through west, and H. T)')^ E., it is 140 feet above the sea, and visible in clear weather LS miles. The lighthouse, painted white, with a red hauern, is s(piare in shape. PatOS or Alden point light isjUvd ml of small power. Fog" signal. — A trum}H't on I'atos point gives blasts of tirn seconds, f:Alo\viid by a silent interval of eit/hteen seconds. S:r ohart, No. 2,810. lOfi CHAPTER III. THE WESTERN CHANNELS AND ISLANDS TO GABRIOLA PASS. Vai-iatiou 23° to 24° East, in 18D8. The WESTEPF CHA.NNELS of HARO STRAIT may hv used with advu i y steam-vesselH or coasters bouinl from tho southern ports of ouver island to Georgia strait, or to the districts Saaii'ch, Cowiichin, Nanaimo, and the numerous inter- mediate harbours ; the advantages over the Haro strait consist in the strength of tide being less, besides sheltered anchorage being obtainable in almost all parts ; while in the latter strait the depth of water is so great that it is impossible to anchor, and sailing-vessels may frequently l)e set back into Juan de Fuca strait, thus entailing great delay as well as risk.'* On the other hand, the western channels are not free from danger, yet, with the assistance of the chart, and a good look-out from aloft for kelp, a precaution which should never be neglected, they may be navigated during daylight with ease and safety. SIDNEY CHANNEL, between James and Sidney islands, is the best ; it is nearly one mile wide, with depths of from 14 to 20 fathoms, until near its northern end, where shoal patches with only () to i) feet water on them, marked by kelp, lie 3 to 5 cables off the western point of Sidney island. Whale islet, a small rock feet above high water, lies at the southern entrance to Sidney channel, and is joined to Sidney island by a sand spit. Sidney spit, the north-west end of the island, is a low sandy tongue with a few trees on its extreme. There is gooil anchorage off this spit in 8 fathoms water. * i'Sfe Admiralty chart : — Haro and Rosario t^braits, No. 2,tj.S'j ; scale, /// = O.") inches ; also Admiralty chart : — Haro Htrait and Middle channel, No. 2,840 ; scale, w= I'U inch. * Chap. III.] SIDNEY CHANNEL.— CORDOVA CHANNEL. 107 A spit, with a depth of 3 fathoms, extends in a northerly direction from the north-east point of James island. North-westward of the spit, the depth increases quickly to 5 and 1) fathoms. A sunken rock, with a depth of 20 feet on it and deep water around, is situated about one cable from the western coast of Sidney island, with the beacon at the north-west point of Sidney island bearing N.N.W. j| W., distant 13^ cables. ' Beacon and buoys. — A beacon consisting of a cone 40 feet high, surmounted by a pole and cage 10 feet high, the whole coloured white, has been erected on Sidney spit. A black spar buoy, shewing 10 feet above water, marks the south- east extreme of the two 3 fathoms patches west of Darcy island. A buoy, colo'ired red and black in horizontal bands, is mooretl in IG feet on the south-eastern of the two rocky patches oil" tiic north- west part of Sidney island. Sidney. — The town Sidney is situated on the coast about U, miles southwaril of Shoal harbour. Shoal ground, with general dei)th«; of l^ to 4 fathoms, extends about 3 cables in an east and south-t-.h^t direction from the town. The outer edge of the shoal ground is marked by two red spar buoys. Northward of Sidney, a shoal with 'J feet at its outer extreme and 4 to 7 fathoms close eastward, extends about 3 oabh-s from the coast. From the extreme the wharf at Sidney bears S. by W. ;[ W. about 3^ cables. Cordova channel between James island and Vancouvisr island is a fair passage with little tide ; it is not, however, to be prcferri'd to Sidney channel, neither is any saving in distance gained by taking it, and it cannot be recommended for vessels drawing over 14 feet, as the navigable channel at its southern entrance betwei-n the banks extending off from the south-west bluff of .lames island and the main island shore is only 3 cables wide, and has a siind bank over one cable in extent, with 15 feet water on it lying in the centre of the passage. A little northward from Cowitchin head, low swamjjy land extends 2 miles N.N.W., and about a quarter to half a mile oft" the high land ; shoal water extends from one to 2 cables outside this flat. ike obart. No. 2,)i40. k 108 HARO StRAlT, WESTERN CHANNELS. [Chap. III. The southern face of James island is a niodorately high and steep white chvy cliff, its summit covered with trees ; towards the eastern part of this clilf arc two remarkable notchi^s on its summit. A bank, having from one to 3 fatlioms water on it, extends one mile to the eastward, and nearly iialf a mile to the southward and westward from the south-west bluff of .James island. A shoal three-quarters of a mile in extent, haviiifj depths of from li to 3 fathoms on it, lies south-eastward from the island, the centre of it bears S.E. by E. ^ E., ilistant IJ miles from south-west bluff James island. Directions. — If the i)a8sai,'e inside Discovery and Chatham islands has been taken, and intending,' to take the Sidney channel ; when abreast Cadboro point, steer N.N.W., keeping the passage between that point and Chatham islands open astern, until mount Tuam (on the southern point of Admiral island) is in line over the centre between the two remarkable notches on James island bearing N.W. by W., ,w View D, on chart No. 2,840. This mark will lead nearly one mile eastward from Zero rock, 3 cables westward from the 3 fathoms patches off Darcy island, and between thein and the shoal of 1> feet extending south-eastward from James island. When Morse island is in line with the south-east point of Sidney island, bearing N.E. ^ N., alter course to N.N.W., to avoid the shoal which extends one mile E. by N. ^ N., from south-west bluff of James island ; pass about 3 cables westward from Whale islet, and then steer up mid-channel, and avoid the shoal patches oft' the west end of Sidney island, but not by shutting Whale islet in with Darcy island, until the end of aidney spit bears North. If passing outside Discovery and Chatham islands, at about one mile oft" shoi-e, steer N.W. ^ N., until the leading marks (mount Tuam in line between the two remarkable notches on James island, bearing N.W. by W.) are on, when proceed as before directed. MINERS CHANNEL. — Low and Bare islands are two small islands lying off the eastern side of Sidney island, and between them and the latter there is a good passage, half a mile wide, with 8 fathoms least water ; a 3 fathoms patch one cable in extent lies 2^ cables N. by E., from the east point of Sidney island, the southern entrance of the channel. This channel may prove convenient for those having passed up Haro strait eastward of Kelp reefs, and desiring to take the inner channels to Saanich, Cowitchiu, or through Stuart channel. See chart, No. 2,840. i Chap. III.] MINRRS rHANNBL.— JONES ISLAND. 109 After pa.ssing Bare irilanJ a cunr.se should bo steered between Sidney spit and Jones island. Having? passed to the northward of Sidney island, either by Cordova, Sidney, or Miners channels, the Shute or Moresby passages may be taken as convenient ; if bound for Saanich Cowitchin, or through Stuart channel, the former is preferable while the latter offers a more direct course through the Swanson or Trincomali channels, or to Fraser river by Active pass. The eastern side of Sidney island affords good anchorage in 8 fathoms, out of the tide, off a bay S.S.W. from the north end of Bare island ; the bay is shoal as far out as a line between its entrance points. Midway between Low ami Bare ishinds, and on the line, between their north-west points, is a reef which uncovers ; and a rock which nearly uncovers lies 4 cables N. ^ W., fix)m the north-west end of Low island. There is a rock \\ feet above high water bcai'ing W. by N. I N., distant one-third of a mile from the nortli-west end of Bare island. Shute passagre. — To enter this ])assage, after leaving Sidney spit, pass between Jones island and the Little grouj), then eastward of Coal island, Knapp and Pym islands, and between Piers and Portland islands, when the Satellite channel will be enterud, which leads directly to Saanich, Cowitchin, and the western parts of Vancouver island. This is a good clear channel, and with the assistance of the chart may be used with much facility. Jones island lies two-thirds of a mile North from Sidney spit, with a clear passage between of from 15 to 20 fathoms ; shoal rocky ground extends one cable westward from the north-west point of Jones island, and the tides set with considerable strength (2 to 5 knots) round this point ; detached rocks extend 2 cables (eastward from the east end of the island. Tree, Hill, Domville, Comet, and Goooll islands which lie in the fairw?v between Sidney and Moresby islands, art moderately low, and wo< ided, but the passages between them are not recommended unless to those well acquainted with the navigation of this locality. North Cod reef is about 2 cables in extent, and covers at a quarter flood, it lies 4 cables S. ^ E. from the west end of Gooch island. iSet chart, No. 2,84U. 110 U\nO aTRATT, WKSTKIIN PHANNHTia. [Chap. HI South 0()(l roof, iilHo about 2 oablos in oxtont, has fi foot on it at low \vat»>r, it lios 7 cablos S. \ K., from tho wost ond of Oooch inland ; both roofn aro markod by kolp. A i)atcli of 2 fathoms, markod by kolp, lios nearly midway botwoon tho sonthorn ond of Jonos and Donivillo ifllands ; the passage botwoon (rooch ami Comet ialantwe»i)i tliom and Jones island. Bird islet, lying on the eastern side of Shuto passage, and two-thirds of a mile N.N.W. from the north point of JonoH island, is about G feet above high water, and has a cluster of reefs around it oui' cable in t>xtont, markod by koli) ; between it and Coal island there is a dear passage (me mile wide, with from 20 to 30 fathoms water. Coal island, which helps to form the western side of Shute passage, lies close off the north-east extreme of the Saanich peninsula, and immediately at the tMitranco of Shoal harbour ; it is one mile in extent and thickly wooded. When working np the passage between Bird islet and Coal island, a vessel should not stand to the westward of a line joining the east t'ud of Little group to the east point of Coal island, as a rock which covers at a quarter flood lies 4 cables W.N.W. from the east end of the group, A small patch with 4 fathoms over it, and probably less marked by kelp, lies one mile -N.E. from the east point of Coal island, more than three-quarters af a mile N.N.W. ^ W. from Bird islet, and one-third of a mile S.W. from Yellow islet. When abreast the east point of Coal island, and distant one-third of a mile, a W.N.W. course will lead through Shute passjige in mid-channel, passing eastward of Pym island, off the eastern side of which a reef which uncovers extends a little more than one cable. As patches of kelp have been seen extending some distance from the south side of Pym island, caution must be observed when passing between that island and Coal island. ' ^ Ste chart, No. 2840. Chiip. III.] lifTTI.K (;UOiri',— MOItKSUV I'ASHACJK. m 1 Gella reef, whidi Hch Itclwccn I'ym and PortliUid IsIuimIh, must uIho b(' iivoiilcil. The It'iwt wutcr roiiiid on it \h S I'cct ; it is uiJirkt'il l)y Ivt'lp, iind l'w» two-tliinla (tl" ;i iiiih* North from tho north point of Pym ishmd. Yt'Uow ishmd kept just open northwurd of Snitiiicl ishmd* boiirinj» K. } S., leads more tlian ont* cable southward of (!elia r»H'f ; and Heaver i)oint (Admiral island), in line with Steep blufV (l'(»rtland island), bearing' N. \ W., leads westward of it. Knapp and Pym islands are small and wooded, lyiuK between Piers and (Joal islaiuls. 'IMu* passaj,'e between PlorH and Portland islanils is over one mile in l)readth ; about on*; (lable oil' the (^astern side of Piers island is a roek always uncovered ; and a nu'f extends from the western Hide of Knapp island. Having' ))assed westward lu'tween these islands a vessel is fairly in Sat<'llite channel. Cape Keppel, in line with C/owitehan lii^ad, W. | S. southerly, leads tIiroui,'h Colburne passa tiy TO V Chn\). TTT.] PREVOST PASSAGE,- SATRIJJTK CUANXEL. lU I I is ii piirtrtufje Olio mil'- w'nli' Ix'twccii it and Ararhnt' hm-I', (Ii.> channt'l heiiig about tlio same width l)OtW('on tLo latter ami Mon-sby inland, with dct'i) water. North part of Portland iHJand, in line willi somii side of Aroresby island, bearing' \V. i)y N. •,' X., leads northward ol" ('noper and Araehne reefs. Yellow islet, n small bare isli't S foot liipfh, lies I.\ miles S.W. by W. from Fairfax point, and should be passed on the north Hide to cdear the Hhoal of ',\ fatlion^H whieh extends nt-arly 2 cables westward from the isld. SATELLITE CHANNEL is formed by Admiral island on the north : and Moresby, I'oi-tland, and I'iers islands, and tin' northern shore of Saanich i)eninsula on tlie soiitii. It leads to Saanit'h inlet, Cowitehin hai'bour, and by Sansiim narrows to Stuart channel. It is a ^do(l, dei'|) pa^:siiJ,'(■ with but few danj,'er8, wliitdi art' not always visililc ; am on},' these arc Shute vvvi' and Patey rock. The i,'('uci'al breatlth of the channel is one mile, dee]), and the slreii^'th of tide frnm one to iJ knots. Shute reef is a led^e less than half a cable in extent, with two rocks, one of which is covered at S feet Hood, its vicinity bein^' niarketl by k( Ij). It lies two-thirds of a mile W.S.W., from Harry })oint, the nortii point of Piers island, and nearly 15 cables N. by K. I K., i'rom Arbutus, a small islet, with two or three of the red stemmed arbutus ^'rowinj^' on it, and lyiny half a mile westward from Piers island. Patey rock, at the westttrn eiul of Satellitt" channel, is a single rock, covered at (» l\'et rise, with kelp around it, and is in the wa\ of vessels working into Saanich iidet or Cowitehin harbour. It lies two-thirds of a niih- N.X.K. IVom Hatch jioiut, the westernmosi point of Saanich inlet ; nearly 2 miles N.W. by W. .', \V., from Coal point, a remarkable nob point, tlu^ south extremi ; " i)eep cove ; and 3;| miles S,W. by W. .;, W. from Arbutus islet. Harry })oint oi)en northward of Arbutus islet, bearing X.E. by E., leads 15 cables southward of Patey rock ; and the high round summit of Moresby island, well open northward of Arbutus islet, bearing E.N.E., leads ;54 cables northward of it. Srr cbart. No. Z^UK SO U94H H fr 114 HARO STRAIT, WKHTKRX CHANNKLS. [Ohap. Ill Cecil rock, with 2 fathoms on it, lies oiH'-thinl of a mih' K.S.E. from th(^ south point of RuhhoII ishiiid at the entranoo of Fulford harbour, iintl iiiuHt ])v avoided wluui working' up Satellite channel. Boatswain bank, on the western side of the i'hanu(d, ofl" the Vancouver nhore, between Cherry and Hatch ])iiii)ts, affords <,'ood anchoraf,'e in from I to '.> fathoms, Handy bottom ; the outer eil^'e of the bank in 10 fathoms is steep-to, it j-xtcnds three-quarters of a mile K. by N., from Cherry ])oint, and then trends S.S.E., over three- quarters of a mile; from l\ to 15 cables inside the 10 fathoms line, the water shoals rai)ldly from ;') to 3 fathoms, the latter depth being found 1 cables from the shore. SAANIOH INLET is a det'p indentaticm extendint,' in a nearly S.S.E, direction for I I n)ih>s, and carrying,' dee]) water to its head, which terminates in a narrow creek within 1 miles of Ksijuimalt harbour. A rocky patch, about half a cable in extent north-(M»st and south-west, witli a least depth of 8 feet on it, lies with tlie western White rock off Cole bay, bearini,' X. 57" K., distant :2 cables. TIh' inlet forms the south-east portion of Vancouver island into a peninsula of about 20 miles long in a N.N.W. and S.S.E. direction, and Aaryinj,' in breadth from 8 miles at its southern part, to i) at its northern. Off the eastern or peninsula side of the inlet there are some good anchorages, the centre being for the most part deep. Immediately southward from James i)oint (the north-Avestern point of the peninsulii), is Deep cove, but no convenient anchorag(!. NorrlS rock, aAvash at half tide, lies 2 cables S.W. by S. from James point, with 12 fathoms between it autl the point. When rounding this point, give it a berth of half a mile. Union bay, at 2 miles southward from James point affords good anchorage in 8 or fathoms, half a mile from the beach ; a shoal bank extends 2 to !? cables from the shore around the baj'. Tlnre is a stream of fresh water in the south-east corner of the bay. Cole bay, Ig miles southwanl from Union bay, and immediately under mount Newton is small, but capable of affording shelter to a few vessels of moderate size ; oif its north point are White rocks, two small bare islets. Anchor in the centre of the bay in 8 fathoms, with White rocks bearing W.S.W. These bays are somewhat open to S.W. winds, but a gale rarely blows from this quarter, nor from the proximity of the opposite shore, distant scarcely 3 miles, could much sea get up. *<- chart, No. 2,810. i Ohiip. iiT.l sAANrroFr rvrjyr.— cowrrfurv irAnnorn. lir. khoivl re is itely to a jcks, |oin8, )pen trom louUl Tod creek Ih 2 uuWh Honthwivrd from Colo bay. Sonanns iHland, a Hmall wooded inlet, l.')!) feet hif,'h, lies oft its entrance, foul },'rounil extenda nearly one cable off tlie north-west wide of the inland. A small islet, and a rock lyinj? one cable north from it, lies in the entrance to the south-east part of the creek. A short distance inside it narrows rapidly and winds to the southward and south-east for lliree-tjuarlers of a mil(>, with a breadth of less than one cable, carrying,' (1 fathoms nearly to its heaart of the creek in I.') fathoms. Squally reach. — From Willis point, the western point of Tod cre«'k, the inlet known as S(pially reach trends soutii-west for 21 miles, the breadth of tin- arm liei'e beint? three-quarters of a mile, with no bottom at 1(K> fathoms. Finlayson arm, its eontinualion, trends S, by K. .', M. for ;> miles, and terminates Saanich inlet. IJeacon rock, which covers at thre '(piarters ilood, lies one cable, S.W. if S,, from Elbow point, Finlayson arm. A small ish't named Dinner, with dectp water ou either side, lies near the head of this arm, 1.^ c;d)les southward from which there la good anchorage in [) fathoms. At ',\ cables south from the islet, the arm terminates in a flat, which dries at low water. Immediately over the head of the inlet, on the eastern side, Leading peak rises to an elevation of l,:iiG feet. Mill creek bay is a fair anchorage, and the only one on the western side of Saanich inlet ; a bank of sanil and rock which has only from one to 15 fathoms water on it, extends 12 cables from the western shore, across the bay ; a large stream flows into the north- west corner of the bay. A rock, with only (5 to 1) feet water on it, lies almost in the centre of the bay, a short distance outside the i] fathoms line, nearly 4 cables S.S.W. | \V. from Ford point. OOWITCHIN HARBOUR i« - miles westward from cape Keppel, the" southern extreme of Admiral islantl ; Separation point (the western point of entrance to Sansum narrows), its northern enti'ance point, is somewhat remarkable, being the termination of a high, stony ridje. Cowitchin harbour extends westward from this point foi- 2 miles, and the general depth in it is 30 fathoms, which shoals suddenly as the fiat is approached, which dries off for more than half a mile from the head of the harbour. Str chart, Xo. 2,8-tO. SO 11948 H2 I 116 HARO STRAIT, WESTERN CHANNELS. [Chap. III. But for thf lur^'c tnict of j^oorl laiul contained in rowitchin valley, the i>()rt would scarcely be deaervinj^f of notice, and it is more of a bay than a harbour. In its north-west end is a c the point on the west side. Mail steamers call here twi(!e a week. Snug" creek. — The only convenient aiu'lioi'a,i,'e to he obtained is in Snug creek, on ihe north sidt^ of t'owitchin harbour, or off the outer village on the south side, 1] miles within the entrance : in the . hitter case a vessel must apjjroach the shori' within litth^ more than one cable, ami anchor cautiously, when 12 fathoms are obtained. Hnniir creek is a conviMiicnt anchora'.,'<' for smdl cral't or coasters and oni' or two vessels of modei-ate sizt* mi!j:ht obtain aiidiora.^e and shelter in it ; it extends in a noi-therly direction for nearly one mile, and is a (fuarter of a mile in l)r.'adth. Nearly in the miildle of tiie entrance is a rock which uncovers at low wati-r in the centre of tl)<' kelj) ; it is about 20 feet in extent, and has J?, fathoms around it. The westi-rn point of entrance can be passed close as it is bold, and has 10 fathoms within half a cable of it ; when a ((uarfer of a mile or le.ss, inside the point, anchor in the centre of the cri-ek in t) fathoms. A red spar buoy marks the shoal extentlinu; from tlie eastei-n shore. SANSUM NARROWS take a g^'iieral northerly direction ♦ between Vancouver and Admiral islands i'oi' () miles, when they lead into Stuart channtd ; the avera^'e breadth is about half a mile, but at their narrowest part, abreast liold blull', they are contracted to one- third of a mile. The high land on both sides renders the wind generally very unsteady ; from this cause, as well as from the some- what confined nature of the channel, and the depth of water whicH prevents anchoring, the Narrows i lunot be recommended except for steamships or coasting-vessels. There are but few dangers to be avoiib'd. and the strength of the tides has sehiom been found to exceed '^ knots, generally much less. Knteriug Sansum narrows fi-om the southward. Kelp reef, with 9 feet water on it, on the Admiral island shore must be avoiiled. It I I I .*&'« ohart, No, 2 6W. \ mile in sliotv. 'ctinn but iit (» OllO- whul Hoine- whic'- 'pt for to 1)0 unl to with eel. It rilHl). ^"-J SAN.SUM NARHOW.s.— STUART CHANNEL. ii: lie.s 2 ciihU'S S.S.W. troiu ;i sin ill islet (..'iosr t(» tin coast, aiul a ([uarter of a mill- S.W. fi-oiu KutiMue.' point ; it is niirki-d by a red buoy. Another rocky [)atc'h extends nearly one ••iible off shore fron.! the uastera side of th" Narrows : it lies one mile N.W, by W. \ \V. from Kntrance point. Burial islet, a smali spot used as an Indian buryiny-plaee, lies on the eastern side of ilu- Narrows, I J, miles above Sei)ar.uion point ; pass outside it as close as convenient to tlie kelp. Bold bluff, a smooth iieadland of bare rock, is steep-to ; the channel here is scarcely one-third of a mile across, llocky ^Tound marked by kelp extends one ciible otV Ivtdp point on the western side, almost opposite to Hold bhitf ; northward from these points the Narrows increase in breadth to nearly one mile. Burgroyne bay, the enti-ance to which is half a mile eastwanl from Uold l)lull', is a narrow aii() to 100 fathoms, in some parts more, in thT,t ; scale, m = ()"> inches. •}• Hir Admiralty plau of Osborn bay ou chart, No. 714 ; scale, m = iJ inches. Chap. III.] OSBORN BAY.— OYSTER HARBOUR. 119 to |n; baj', from which spars may be ol)tained for shipping ; also stores, post office, and railway station. Bare Point lig-ht is a Ji.i-rd whitr light, (devated 30 feet above high water, and visil)ie in clear weathei- from a di.stance of 11 miles. The light is shown from the roof of the keeper's dwelling, the whole 30 feet high, and painted white. Bird reef, a rocky ledge uncovering at half tide, extends y S. from liare point. Anchorage. — Thi-re is convenient anchorage for small vessels off the siiw-mill, or within a (juarter of a mile of tlu' head of the bay in 8 fathoms ; within this distance the water shoals suddenly from .') to 2 fathoms. OYSTER HARBOUR is i miles W.X.W. from Chemainus bay ; the harbour extends in the same ilirection for \ miles, is nearly one mile wide at the entrance, narrowing gradually within. Entering from the northward, Cojlin isltt should be given a berth of 2 cables ; at low water the Oyster beils dry 2 ( ables off the south shore.* A reef which covers at half tlood extends one cable southward from the twin islands ; half a mile above this the harbour narrows t<» a (pxarter of a mile in width ; small vessels may go as far up as the west end of Long island, where 3 fathoms will be found at low water. A good anchorage for a large vessel is one mile inside the entraiice in It fathoms, miul lM*tioin, with the south-east end of Loiiir isiand bearing x ,\V'. by W., and east extreme t)f Twin islamls bearing North ; good auchonige may also be had in l» fathoms, mud bottom, nearly three-([uarters of a mile further up the harbour. Tides. — It is high water at full and change in Oyster harbour at 6h. Ora. p.m. ; springs rise 11) feet. * See Admiralty plau of Oyster harlx^ur on chart, No. 714 ; scale, m = 3 incheu. 120 IfAKO STRAIT, WKSTKIIN CHANNKLS. [Cliiip. III. ii KULLEET BAY it< 'il luihs iiorthwunl from tlit- tiitraiK-e of Oyster harbour, and the Hame distaucu W. by S. from Rt'ef point, the north-went point of Thetis iahind. Anohonige may be had in S fathoms at lialf a mile from its head' on a bank which projects from tlie southern shore, witli Deer point, at the northern entrance of the bay bearinij N.K., and the soutliern trend of the coast bearing,' S.K. by K. ; but it is open and cannot be recommended, unh-ss in fine weather, or witii off-shore winils. Yellow point, bare and grassy at its extreme, is tlie north point of Kulleet l)ay ; a rock, nearly awash at low water sprinj,'s, with a depth of 10 fathoms half a cal)le eastward of it, lii's about 2 cal)les eastward of Yellow point, in a position with White rock centre bearinfj; E. by N. .^ N., distant lii,^,, cables. The COAST, from Yellow point to Round island, at the scuthern entrance of Uodd narrows, irenils N.W. \ W. for 5 miles. When working for the narrows, White rock and Danger reef must l)e avoided. At l.^ miles southward from Hound island is l!oat h-irboui', at the entrance of which a vessi-l may drop an aiichoi- in H to 1(1 fathoms if waiting for the tide, thougii there is ei^ually good anchorage nearer to the narrows. North reef is a sandstone leilge I'xtending in a north-westerly and south-easterly direction, as all the reefs in this channel do. It lies half a mile S. b\ K. .\ K. from the sonth-eai-t i)oint of Tent island. It is just awash at high water, and therefore easily avoided ; its shoal part extends for one-third of a mile, in a W.N.W. directicm, steep on its north and s(tuth sides. TENT ISLAND, narrow and two-thirds of a mile long, lies olf the south extreme of Kuper island. One cable olf its south-east end are two remarkable worn sandstone rocks 8 or 10 feet above watei', with a passage one-third of a mile wide between them and North reef. At nearly 2 cables N.E. I E. from the south-east end of Tent island is a rock which uncovers 2 feet, and has shoal watei", 2 to ;5 fatlioms exteiivHiig 2 cables around it. When passing eastward of Tent ishi.id, its eastern shore should )e giviii a berth of half a mile, as so ne ledges extend off it. There isnoshii' i)assage between Tent and Kuper islands, there being a depth of only one fathom at low water. .Sty' chart, No. 679, rhap. FH.] KULLKKT MAY. — I)A\(;KU IlKKF 121 ester ly o. It slaud. shoal tet'p on it'H oil ith-cast above '111 and .f Tent wati'i", stwai'd ludf u ■tween lom at Escape reef, ~ ipilcs N.W. byW. from Xoitli I'l'i't', is adanpvroiis l»ak'h, lU'arly ont'-tliirl of a mdc in extent, in a W.N.W. and K.S. !•;. direction, wliich cover.-i at a ([narter ilood, and has no kciji to inarlc its position. It lies nearly half a inile from the west siiorc of Ivuprr island, ]\ nulos, W. { S. from .b^slin'^- (its south) point, and a littlr more than half a mile South from Uitri^dit elifl", Kuper island ; there is a deep channel one-third of a mile wide between it and Kuper island. Yellow point just open westward of Scott island, oil' Preedy hai'bour, bearinjj; N.W. [ W. leads 15 cables westward of the rci-f. Sandstone rocks oil' the south-east point of Tent island kept open of that point also lead westward of it. Alarm rook is scarcely in the track of vessels workiiii,' up Stuart channel. It lies one cable S. by W. from the south-east point of Hudson island, approach to Telej^raph harbour. It just covers at high water, and is connected by a letlge with Hudson island. False reef lies ?>}, cables W. by N. I X. from Si-ott island, and a long half mile S.W. }, S., from Crescent point, the north-west point of Preedy harbour ; it is awash at low water. White rock, about ;><> yards long, and 1') feet altove high waii'i-, lies one mile N.N.W, fi-om Reel point, the north-west exli-eme of Thetis island ; a bank having from 2 to .') I'athoms on it exteiuls 2 cables north-westward from the rock. This rock has a whitish appearance, and is i-eadily distinguished from a vessel's deck at a distanc*; of 2 or ii miles. It HJiould not be passed within 2 cables distant, and there is a good passage between it and Thetis island, giving Reef point a l)ertii of half a mile to avoid a rocky ledge extending nearly that distance norili westward from it. Ragged ishmd, a low rocky islet, with a few trees on it, lies one-third of a mile W.N.W., from Pilkey point, the nori^h end of Thetis island. Danger reef, lying one mile N.W. h N. from White rock, and I5 miles, N.E. by N. from Yellow point, covers a space of half a mile almost in the ct ntre of the channel. A small portion of it is generally awash at high water, at which time it is diilicult to make ont nntil within a short distance of it. See chart, No. 67t». r ' ■«■ 1 ,' 122 HARO STRAIT, WESTERN CHANNELS. [CllJip. III. Directions. — When paHsing thnmyh Stuart chamiol, there i« a clear passage one mile in breadth between Danger reef and the Vancouver island shore, and going either up or down the channel. White rock is kept in line with the north-east extreme of Thetis island, bearing K.S.E., which leads '^ cables westward of the veef. Bound southward through Stuart channel from Dodd narrrows, pass at fron) one to 2 cables eastward of Round island, and steer for tlie westernmost ragged tree suuimit of Thetis island, S.E. [ ]']., this course leads in mid-channel, and over half a mile wcstwii.ril from Danger reef, and White rock ; when the latter bears East, alter course to S.S.E. for Stuart channel. There is a clear passage tlu'ee-((uarlers of a mile wide between White rock and Danger reef, and lialf a mile between the reef and Tree island, with a dejith of over .'50 fathoms. As White rock and Tree island are always visible, and Danger reef is generally above water, there can be no difficulty in either of these i)assage8 to vessels coming np Trincomali channel. Vesuvius bay, on the western side of Admiral island, im- mediately opposite Osborn bay, has deep water, but shoals suddenly at its head ; if necessary, anchor in 9 fathoms at l.\ cables from the shore ; but it is not recommended. There is also anchoi-age for coasters ineitle Idol islet in Houston jiassage. This islet lies 1| miles K. by N. from the south end of Tent island, and is 2i cables from Admiral island; with the islet bearing W. by N., and midway between it and the shore, there is anchorage in (') fathoms. Grappler reef, on the eastern siile of Houston passage, is one cable in extent and uncovers at vt-iy low water. It lies a quarter of a mile off" the north-west end of Admiral island, and there are 5 fathoms between it and the shore of the island. Passing through Houston passage, the eastern jjoint of Sansum narrows kept well open of the points of Admiral island to the northward of it, the latter bearing S.E. ^ S., leads 2 cables westward t)f the reef, and when the southern point of Secretary islantl is open of Southey point bearing N.E. by N., it is cleared to the northward. A spar buoy, in 7 fathoms, lies on the south-west extreme of the reef. See chart, N v. 57" >. III. Chup. HI.] VKSUVIUS MAY.— .\1>MIRAL ISLAM). 1 )'l itJ a the UllA'l, 'hetis si'. rows, yr I'oi' ., this from , alter 'tween sef and jk and above vessels ad, im- uldenly •om the ouston end of 10 islet there is is one arter oi' ere are hrough [pt well it, the ^ef, and k- point TB''.iEQRAPH HARBOUR, on tlie werttsitleoi" Kuper island, is a snug anchorage, and its entrance is between Hudson ishmd aiitl Active point, which are half a mile apart. Entering from tlie south- ward, Escape reef (page 121) must he avoided. If passing inside tiie reef, the shore of the island should l)e kept aboard within a quarter of a mile ; if outsidi' or westward of it, then keej) Y*'Uo\v point (north point of Kulleet bay) just open westward of Scott island, off Preedy harbour, bearing N.W. j W., until Upriglit clitl" of Kuper island bears N.K., when a vesst'l will be northwiird of it, and may steer for the entrance of the harhour. '' Anchorag^e. — Tliere is good anclKU'age in S fathoms, with the north-west end of Hudson island bearing W.S.W., and Active point S.E. ^ S.; or 2 cables further in, iu S fathoms, Al»ovc this, the harbour contracts to a narrow creek extending one mile N.W., where coasters may fiml anchorage in 2 to ii fathoms ; the continuation of this creek easterly separates Kuper from Thetis island, which at low water are connected. The wharf on the eastern shore has a depth of n foet alongside the end. Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in Telegraph harbour at tJh. Om,; springs rise 10 feet. Preedy harbour is separated from that just described by a group of small islands and reefs ; its entrance is northward of them between Scott island and Ci'escent point of Thetif island, ami is one-thiril of a mile wide. When entering, the The' is island shore should be kept well aboard to avoid False reef. Shoal water extends for H cables oft" the northern sides of Scott and Dayaum islands. Anchorage will be found in 7 fathoms, with Crescent point bearing W.N.W., distant nearly half a mile, and east point of Dayman islantl bearing S, by W. SWANSON CHANNEL leads from Ilaro strait north-west- ward » etween Admiral island on the west and I'ender ishunl on the east ; passing eastward of l*r»'Vost island it enters Active pass between Galiano and Mayne islands, and thence into (Jeoi-gia strait ; northward of Active pass it coiniects with Trincomali channel. leme of ADMIRAL ISLAND, separating Stuart from Trincomali and Swanaon channels, is of consitlerable extent, being nearly 15 miles in length N.W, and S.E., and varying in breadth from 2 miles at its * Sev Admiralty plau of Telegraph harbour on chart, No, 7U ; scale, m = 3 inches. i" ' i{ i! I: !f It' I ! V2\ HAHO STRAIT, WKSTERN CHANNELS. [Clliip. III. iKtrdieni eml t<» (> at its Hontlieni. It has two yodd jttirts, Fiilionl harbour ou its south-east, and Gaii^'cs liarlxjiir on its castcni sidf. The soutliorn i)ortion of the island is a jH-ninsula formed Ity (lie indentations of Fiilford iiarl)oin' and liur^'oyne bay (a valh'y separating,' (he heads of tiiese poi'ts), composeil of a lofly ridf,'e of mountains ov(>r '2,000 feet in lu'ii^bt, rising' abruptly frou) all sides; the summit, mount Bruce, bein^' '1,^V2[) fet-t hif,'h. Immediately northward of the vaUey, and over ihiryoyiie bay on its western side, mount liaynt'S rises to an elevation of 1, '.•."»;) feel, and is very I'cmai'kable, its southern face beiufj; a i)er])endicular l)rec-ipiei' visible a lon^' distaivce fi'om the southward or eastward. The Otter ranji^e of somewhat less elevation rii^es northward of mount Baynes, from whence tli(! island sIo])es away in a wedii'e shape, its northern termination, Southey itoint, being a sharpi' extreme. The island is for the most part thickly wooded, but then' is a con- si(U'rable extent of partially clear land both in the valley at the head of Fulford harbour and at the northern end of the Isliind, which has become peopled l)y settlers under the name of 8alt Sjiring district, from the fact of several salt springs having bi-en discovered. FULFORD HARBOUR penetrates the south-east side of Admiral island in a W.N.W. direction for '2h miles. At its entrance is Hussell islanil, between which and Isabella point, the western point of the harbour, is the best passage in. Immediately over the north side of the harbour is HeginaM hill, a stony elevation l)etAveen 700 and SOO feet high. Cecil rock with 2 fathoms water on it lies one-third of a mile S.i'L by Vj. 'l E. from the south-west point of Hussell island. The southern entrance is two-thirds of a mile wide with a depth of 20 fathoms until abreast North rock ; here the harb(»ur narrows, and has a general breadth almost to its head of a little less than half a mile ; the tl^pths decreasing to 1',) and 10 fathoms, and at )\]f cables from the heail to .') fathoms, when the water shoals rai)iilly on the edge of the bank which exti^nds about 8 cables from the shore at the head of the harbour. North rock is a small rocky islet lying close oil" the north point of the harbour ; a rock, which covers at a (ptarter flood, lies 2 cables West from it, and more than V, cables from the shore, so that strangers entering should keep to the southward of mid-channel until past it. Si'e chart, No. 2,840. IP. III. ullunl )y tiK' valli'V llf,'l! ol' sidert ; l)ay on :} feel, (liculiir ■^twiinl. uionut ape, its ■. The a cou- lie head lich lias district, side of 'Utraiiet- western over the ll)etween a mile with a harbour little less i, and al rapidly Ihe shore Chap. III.] piTLFonn H.vRRorn.— oanoes HARBOun. 12,-> so that l-chauuel The northern passagre into the harlwur between llnssell island and Eleanor point, thou^i,'h in places not more than a (juartei-of a mile wide, is a safe channel of from 14 to 18 fathoms water. Louisa rock, with one railinm on it, is the only known dan^'cr ; it lies •-* cablcri from tlir norlhei-n or .Vdmiral island sliorc, with the west end of Russell island hcai-iuLr S.K. [, S., distant 1 cables, and North roek W.S.W. the same ilistance ; wiili a leadinL,' wind the Uussell island shore shouhl lie kept rather aboard. Anchoragre. — There is j,'ooil anchora^'e in 10 fath(»ms in the centre of the liarbf)m' with l{e, to ]',) fatlioms. There are 1\'W (hmgers in tlie harbour, and they are easily avoided. A rocky patch with one fathom on it lies 2'\ cables W. \ N. from the west point of the westernmost Aeland islanil, and the same distance offshore. There is another one-fathom patch which is more in the tj'ack of vessels; it lies nearly ri miles W. by X. .', N. from the southernmost Channel islet. Liddell point, the south-east ('Xtrenie of I'revost ishind, and the northern entrance point of tin' harbour, has a reel" wliich is covered at half flood (extending 2 cables eastward from it. The Aeland islands, two in number, lie to the westward of Liddell point along the shore of I'revost island, between which and them there is no shi]) channel. S(T chart, Xo. 2,«40. liil '!i I2rt HARO STRATT, WESTERN CHANNELS. [Chlip. III. Ohain Islands are a prronp of 6 or 7 low narrow islets connected by reefs, extendiuK from the lieml of the hiirbour in an E.S.E. direction for U miles. Southward of these islands the ^Toimd is clear ; but northward of them are scattered reefs, and it is not recommended to anchor on that side above the outermost island, Anchorag'e. — Anchor us soon as a de]»th of 10 or 12 fiithoms is found ; a ^'ood bertli is in 11 fathoms with Peile i)oint, and tlie two entrance points of Long harbour nearly in lino bearing N.K. by N., and the easternmost Chain island W.N.W. If desirable, anchorage may l>e had in (> fathoms mud, midway between the ('hain islands and the souih shore, the easternmost island bearing E.N.K., or in a still snv.gj^^r berth one mile above, off the sandy spit (»n Admiral island, in 1 or 5 fathoms. This latter berth is recommeiiiU'd for vessi'ls of moderate size intending to make any stay. CAPTAIN PASSAGE also leads into Ganges harbour, north- ward of Prevost island. It is a clear deep passage, one-third of a mile wide, with (le])ths of from IM> to 4(» fathoms ; and those from the northward intentling to enter the harbour should always use it. There is only one known danger, which is well inside Ganges harbour, and which is almost ecjually in the track of vessels working up by the soiithei'u i)assage ; it is a small patch of 2 fathoms lying 3i cables S.W. by W. from the western entrance jioint of Long harbour. Entering by Captain passage, I'eile point should not be shut in by the entrance points of Long harbour until the opening between Prevost and Acland islands is shut in, when this reef will be well cleared. When working up the southern channel, do not stand so far eastward when in the neighbourhood of this patch, as to open the passage between Acland and Prevost islands. LONG HARBOUR may l)e almost considered as part of Ganges harbour. It is a long, narrow creek, its general breadth being 2 to 1) cables, and it lic^s to the eastward of (ianges harbour and runs parallel to it for 21, miles. Its entrance is between two sloping, rocky points, similar to each other, on the west side of Captain passage. At a (juarter of a mile inside the entrance is a high, bare islet, which must be passed on its south side ; and at one mile inside the entrance there is also another and somewhat similai- island, which may be passed on either side. Outside these islets the depth is from 14 to 16 fathoms : above them, 4 and 5 fathoms. At the head of the Si-c chart. No. 2,S40. Ohivp. iri.l flAPTATN PAWSAOK.— rnRVnST ISIiANn. l-.>7 creek in a Hunj? place for a h\\\\) to repair, Ac, but as a harbour, it is only adapted to steam-veBHi'lH or coaHters, and, with the ^ood and easy anchorai,'o of Gan^'eH liarbour ho elone, there would appear to be no reason to reeonimend thin eontractcMl and inconv»'nient one. PREVOST ISLAND, 1\ imr in the centre of Swanson eliann(d. is nioderatt'ly high, thickly woddcd, and of an irrejjrnlar shape. It is 'A miles lonj,', in a N.W. and S.E. direction, 1] niih'S in breadtli, and on its southern and western sides it is indented by several bays and creeks; its northern side is almost a straii;ht clilVy shore. LIGHT.— Portlock point light is a .//.m/ ir/n'/r li^rht. witii a /w/ sector showing over Knterprise reel', ch'vated 7"i feci above hif,'h water, and visilih" from a distance nr 10 miles in elear weatlier. Tlie li,:,'hth(iiist'. 111 I'eet hi,i,'h, is a s(piai'e, pyramidal, wonden lower, witii I'oom attached, painted wiiite, ianti'i-n reil. Fog signal. — From a small wooden tower 1^ cables S.K. of the lighthouse a Ik'II is struck once evei-y lifleen seconds. Ellen bay, on» the south-east side of I'revost island, between Liddell and Red islet points, is three-quarters of a mile deep, by one- third in breadth, uarrowinj^ to 2 cables, on((-third of a mih* from its head, and affords fair anchoraire with all but south-easterly winds in 10 fathoms, mud bottom. The head of this bay is a grassy, swampy flat, only one cable wide, separating the bay from the creeks (»n the western shore. There are two bays luu-thward of p]llcn bay, but too small to afford any shelter. Annette and Glenthorne creeks, on the western or (langes harbour side, are curious, narrow imlentations extending into the island for one mile in an K. l)y S. direction, and only separated from each other by a narrow stony ridge. In Glenthorne, the western one, there are I] fathoms water, the other has 1.', fathoms : they are snug places for small craft, or to repair a vesst'l. James bay, on the north-west side of the island, and on east side of Captain passage, affords fair, but very confined anchorage in 10 fathoms for a vessel of moderate size, sheltered from s(»utherly winds, but she must get well in, as then' are 18 to 20 fathoms water in the outer part of the bay. Si-e chart. Xo. 2,840. 12S HAIIO STRAIT, WKSTKRN CHANNKLS. [Chil)). TIT. Hawkins island, a Htnall, ii»fky islot with u t'fw hiiHlu'rt oil it, licH flosc (ill' ii rt'inarkulilt' wliiif Hlioll-beauh, on die iKirth-eaHt Huiv of iVcvoHt irtlaiul. Charles rocks.— Ffom •,» tn ;{.'. caltlcrt W. .', N. rn.in tlM- noiih- wt'Htccn itoiiii of HawkiiiH inlaml arc (he ('liarlcn rocks, tliri-c smooth- loppcd rocks, not marked liy kelp, uihI imcovci in;: towanls low- water. ACTIVE PASS.— From Discovry island at llir southern entrance of Uaro strait, to the sanil heads of Kraser river. Iiy tin' Active ])ass, is jnst !<• miles, and the liiic is almost astrai^dit one, \\y ad(»ptin^' this ronte, imt only the most dan^'crons iind inconvenient part of the llaro strait is avoided, viz.. its norlhern entrance altreast the Kast point of Saturna island and Patos island (wliei'c tint tid«'s are stron;,' and apt to set a vessel down Rosa.'io strait, or over on the eastern shore), htit a distance of ncariv 10 miles is saved. I'Voni I'orllnck poini, the soiiih-easlern iduir of I'ri'vosl island, the entrance ol Active [ia>> iiears N. I>y W. .', \V. distant lij miles, 'i'he southern entrance \u>'\\\{ of the ])ass, Helen pr Duy hillH, (Iocs not 0, leu turns iivcriij;o ^reni'tal )n which shonhl, a mih' I'll short', tranci' t" with the s. uiiU'Ss, i/A> fOlU- s ; but it throufjh Ind cross Chap, in.] ACTIVE PASS, DIRECTIONS. 129 LIGHT. — From a square, white, wooden, li>?ht tower, sltuatod on Oforyinu point, is exhibited jit an eh'vation of 55 feet above h\n\\ water, a /i.rrd irhi/r li^rht, visibhi between tlie beiirings N. !V.) ' K., tlirou^'Ii south, and S. H4° W., and shouhl be seen in cU'ar weather 12 niih'S. Fog signal. — A steam horn piveg a blast of cif/ht scronfh duration Position.— The liKhthonse is situated in latitude 48" .')2' 40" N., lon^'itude 12;^ 17' 50" W. Otter bay. — if overtaken by niijht, or waiting,' for tide, Otter bay, on the west side of Pender island, is a j,'ood 8to))iiin{^-i)Iaee ; it is one mile North from Mouatt point ; fairanehorage is to be had in the centre of the bay, in 8 fathoms. Miners bay, on the south side of Active jiass, where it takes the sharp turn to the northward, afJ'ords anchora^'e, if neeessiiry ; but a vessel must fjo close in to j^et 12 fatlionis, and tlutn is barely out of the whirl of the tide. Directions. — After eaterinj,' Swanson channel between Admiral and I'eiider islands steer to pass to the eastward of Prevost island, and kee)) Pelorus point (the eastern extreme of Moresby island) ojien of Mouatt point (the western extreme of Pender island) bearing? S.K, 'j S., which will lead over one-third of a mile westward of Enterprise reef, and when Helen point bears N. by E., the reef will be cleared, and the entrance oi the pa>-s may be steered for. If coming out of Navy channel, between Pender and Mayne islands, keep over for Prevost island until Pelorus point is open of Mouatt point ; these two points in line, or just touching;, lead verj' close on Enterprise reef. When passing through Active pass to the westward against the flood, keep rather on the southern shore of the pass, as the stream sets over towards a rock, which uncovers at half tide, and lies very close to the northern shore, about a quarter of a mile within the southern entrance. When entering or passing out of the northern entrance of Active pass, the point of Gossip island, on th*^ west, and also (Heorgina point (north extrem> of Mayne island) on the east, should be given a good Sfi' chart, No. 2,840. SO 11948 Il 130 HARO STRAIT, WESTERN CHANNELS. [Chii]). IIT. bertli ; indeed, the beat dirt'cliona Mhich can ije given are to pass through in niitl-chaiinel. Tides and tidal streams. — The li xul stream in Active pans sets from wcHt to ejist, or Ironi the S\\an>ou channel into Georgia strait ; and the ehb, in the contrary direction. The ebb stream is locally rejiorled to c(mimence shortly after high water and to i-iin until aliout tliice-(|uarli'rs of an hour afti-r the tide has begun to rise on the shore. The velocity during si)rings is sometimes? knots; at ordinary tides, from .'? to ."). In the northern entrance there is sometimes a heavy tide ripple, caused by a patch of 7 fathoms, and l>y the meeting of the tide through the )iassuith that in the strait ; as before nu'iitioned, it l8 recommended to pass through in mid-chann«'l ; no favourable eddy, or less strength of tide, Avill ))e found on either side, imless insid«' the keli> which lines the shores. It is high water, full a'MJ change, at th. Cm. TRINCOMALI CHANNEL— l.iki- all the Inner chanu.ds already described, this one must be classed as essentially a channel for .steam-vt ssels or coasiers; it can only be used with advantage by those bound to llie eastern jxirls of N'aucouver island southwaril «)f Nanaimo, or by such as clioosr to • iiier Nanainio itself by llie contracted puss, l)>idd narrows. The eastern .-iide of the ehannel is f< lined by the long nairow islands (ialiano ami Valdis. and tln> westc rn by Admiral, Kiiper, and Thetis islands, and part of the eastern shore of Vancouver i'ditns in the centre of it. Portier and Gabriola passes, leading into Georgia strait, are botJi intricate and dangerous, unless to those perfectly actpuiinted with them, and the titb-s are so strong, and varying in their set, that they cannot be said to be applicable to the general purposes of navigation, and few navigators would be jnslilie. On ]i()int ats or lit, aro iuiutt'd 'ir set, (»St*H ol" tliHin I Chap, rir.] TRINCOMALI CHANNEL. 131 .Montague harbour is between tlie south-east side of Galiano iwlaiid an\' a mile from the ^hore of Admiral island, and in the track of the vessels workinir up or down. It is one cable in extent, and covers at 1 feet rise of tide, its neij^dibourhood bcinj,' marked by kelp, which, however, is rarely seen when there is any rijtple on the water Tin; reef lies \\ miles S. .', K. frt)m Twin islands; and one mile E. by S. from the south-east end of the peninsula which forms Walker hook. There is a passaife of 111 fatlutms between the reef auvl Admiral island, and it may l)e passed one cable distant cm the ouiside. Walker hook is formed by a peninsula I miles W. by N. ^ N. from Captain passaf,'e. On its south-east side \h fair anchoraj^e for small vessels in (I fathoms, but a shoal piiteh marked by kelj) one-third of a mile in extent, lies from '2 cables to over half a mile E.N.K. from the south-east point of the i)eninsida ; small vessels may pass between this shoal and the point in .') fathoms, or ])etween it and Atkins reef, which is better, and anchor in (i fathoms, 2 cablen southward from tlu- neck of the peninsida. There is also anchorajife in 1(1 fathoms northward of the i)eninsula, but do not y;o within the north point of the hook as it dries a lon^,' way out. Governor rock, a dan^fenms rocky patch lyim,' almost in the c(Mitre of Trinconiaii channel, has \ fe«'t on it, is about half a cable Sri- chart, No. 57'J. SO 11948 12 132 HARO STRAIT, WESTERN CHANNELS. [Cbll). HI. f in extent, and thoufjh kelp grows on it, yet it i?, very difficult to make out until (luite close to. It lies 1| miles W. ^ S. from Twin islands, and 1:[ miles S.S.W. from Quadra hill. This hill cannot he mistaken ; it rises from the centre of Galiano island T'jO fe<'t, and a remarkahle white hasaltic clifT will he seen on the cr'^«* immediately southward of it. A conical l)lack Luoy is moored on tu ■ eastern side of this rock. Walker rock lies two-thirds of a mile North from Governor rock, and covers at 4 feet rise. It lies ISj miles W. by N. .\ N. from Twin islands, and 1 J, miles S.W. l»y S. from Quadra hill. A beacon of stone, (S feet high, surmounted by a staff IH feet high, with cross pieces at right angles, i)ainted black on east and west sides and white on north and south, stands on Walker rock. Directions. — Take the passage southward of Governor rock, or that between it and Walker rock, or northward of the latter. If taking the southern passage, after ch'aring Atkins reef, and the shoal oH' Walker h(»ok ; the coast of Admiral island should be kept aboard within half a niile, until Quadra hill bi'ars N.K., when steer X.N.W. over towards (Jaliano island, giving the south-east end of Narrow island a berth of at least half a mile, as a ret'f extends off it. The nuu'ks for a mid-channel ccturse are, the north-east point of Thetis island kept well open of the eastern side of Narrow islanil, the latter bearing W. by N, i N. ; steer up with these marks on until Quadra hill bears N.K., taking care not to open the north-east point of Thetis islaml so mucli of Narrow island as to bring the fornu'r in line with Hall island, as this would lead on to Walker rock. The north-east point of Thetis island should be kept just halfway between the east side of Narrow, and west side of Hall islands ; these marks are very clear and well tlefined, ami are gt'uerally s»'en from a long distance. Houston passage, bttween Kuper island and the western end of Admiral island, leads from Trincomali into Stuart channel. Those intending to take it had better pass up southward of Governor rock. The entrance is between the north-east point of Admiral island and Narrow and Secretary islands ; the southern side of Narrow island is fold, several small islets and rocks extend from one to ;5 cables oH" it ; at 1{ miles K. by S. from Soathty point, a bank having from 2 to .'< fathoms extends one-third of a mile off the Sff t'hart, No. .'79. I If ^ \x\\\>. lit. [icult to [ii Twin niiot iHf I't, iinasfi. Mariners are j.dvised to avoid that passiige. Tides and tidal streams. — The Hood stream sets from Trin- comali channel northward into Georgia strait, and the ebb in the contrary direction. The ebb stream commences from one to 1^ hours before high water by the shore, and runs for one hour after low water, or from 7 to S hours. It is high water, full and change, at iibout 4 p.m., but it is not very regular. At springs the streams run 4 to 7 knots with ilangerous whirls and eddies. CLAM BAY, on the eastern side of Thetis and Kuper islands, opposite Portier i)ass, is formed by the shores of these two islands approaching each other; and the continuation of the bay separates these two islands at high water, when there is a boat channel into Telegraph harbour (pagt' ISIH on tiieir western side.* White spit is a remarkable point of broken clam shells, which can be seen from a long distance, and forms the southern entrance point of the bay ; immediately southwaril of it is a consiilerable native lodge ; a reef, having less than one fathom on it in some places, extends over ',] cables in an K.S.E. direction from White spit point ; Leech island off the northern point of the bay is a small wooded islet. (Vntre reef, with () feet on it, and nuirked l>y kelp, should not bo aj)proaehed nearer than 1} cables, it lies almost in the centre of the entrance, nearly ',\ cables X.W. I, W. from White spit, and one-third of a mile K. by S. from Leech island. Rocket shoal, on which there is u ilepth of t'l feet, lies nt'arly in the centre of the bay, with White spit extreme in line with the highest part of Indian island, bearing K. | S., it is half a cable in extent, with depths of from 2 to 4 fathoms around it. * 8t passu!?** into Oliim luiy from tlic fastwiinl, is northwiird of Narrow, Socrcfarv, ;ui feet lii^di with a few bushes on it, lies half a mile westward from the north end of Held island, luit with no shij) i)assa^M' between. When bound to Clam bay from the northward, pass westward of these islets. Yellow Olift' ancliorag'e.— 'riien^ is fair anchoraj,'e on the western side of Valdes island, 2 miles above I'ortier pass, im- mediately oif a yellow diil" ; (S fathoms, .sandy b»»ttom, will be found with the clijl" bcarinj; N.W. by N. distant a ((uarter of a mile. Jt will also be known by Shinjjile point, a low projection with a native villaf,'e on its extreme, one-third of a mile W. by N. from the yellow cliir. DODD NARROWS.— To steam- vessels of moilerate len,^'tll, that answer the helm i|ni"k!y, this narrow jjuss otl'eis n(» daiijv- i. The s(ren,i,'tli of tlie tidal stream at its ^'reatest rush is ovt-r cS knots, tin- least depth of water, 7 fathojns, and the narrowest part (d" tlie channel is SO yards wide. If bound thr()iij,di Dodd narrows from the southward, and liavin;,' to wait for slack tide, there is fair anchora'^e with l)ut little stream, westward of Round island in (5 fathoms, midway between it and the shore. Percy anchorage on the north side of the Narrows, between Gabriola and !Mud<,'e islands, is a con\enient place to wait for the tide. Directions. — When proceeding,' for Dodd narrows from abreast Portier i)ass, the most lUrc^ct course is northward of Danger reef, biUween it and Tree island ; the hitter is a small round wooded islet lyinf-r oir the south end of De Courcy islands; this pasaago is two-thirds of ii mile wide, with depths of from 2.') to ;$() fathoms. Danj^'er reef (paffe 121) should not be approached within one-third of a mile; if the reef shoidd not be seen it is reconnnended to pass a quarter of a mile southward of Tree island. S-f chart. \o. 571». HI. illll, thl- rcHdt islet liinl 1 til US Chap. III.J DODlJ XAllKOWS. — I'Yl-AltES CHANN'liL. W The p;lrt,sa,^'u botwroii White rode uiul Damrer roof is f^ooil, it is hall" a mile wide, with tleittliH of t'rotn '2() to 'M) fathoms. White roek iw I.') feet high, and may he itassed if necessary on either sitle, distaut 2^ cables. When fjoinj,' northward, keep on the easteri side of Round island ; after this keep in mid-cduinnel, and attend Ihe steenij?*' quickly and carefully. When thronj^di the Narrows tiie strenirth of the tide ceases, and a vessel will I)e in Xortlmmherland chaniu'l, a line wide passage leading to, and only ') miles from, the anchorage -U Nanaimo. Dodd narrows are not so easy to pass through from tlu' north as from the south, as in the former cas<' ti;<' slight hend that has to he made must be made immediately on enti-ring tlu' narrow part. False narrows.-- When taking the Narrows from the northward, be careful not to mistake False narrows, on the nortlieni side of N(U'thumberlanil channel ; ihoy are much wider than the real pass, but nearly ilry at low water. The channel in False narrows is marked by I) single i»ile beacons, one KjKir buoy, painted red, and two .' to '2:)° Kast in 1S!)S. MIDDLE CHANNEL is tlie centre of three piiHsii^cs leii feet above water. Salmon bank extends i^ miles South from Cattle point, the south-east extreme of Sau Juau island, a bare point al)out ")(! feet high, sloping from mount Finlayson, and the h'ast depth fouiul on it is 10 feet, with rocky patches, marked in summer by kelp ; depths varying from \ to i) fathoms extend a further distance of three- quarters of a mile in the same direction. A black can buoy marks the southern edge of the bank. Whale rocks, on the eastern side of the entrance, are two black rocks one cal)le apart, and ."{ or i feet above high water ; a patch with one fathom on it, on which kelp grows, extends 2 cables S.S E. * .Sfr Admiralty charts : -Hftrostruii ami Middle chiumel, No. 2,840 ; scale. m=l'0 inch ; also Haru and Uoaurio Htraiia, Nu. 2,i)8(» fathoms, causing? overfalls and eddies which are ai»t to turn a ship olf her course unless the helm lie jjiven (juickly to meet them. Griffin bay is immediately within the southern entrance of Middle clianntd. AlthouLrh spacious, yet from the f^reat depth of water there is but a limited portion of the bay available for anchoraLfe, and this is in the southern anjL^le, imme(liately off the remarkable prairie land between two forests of pine trees.* With all westerly (»r southerly winds (rritlin bay affords ii[ood shelter ; but with those from North or N.K. it is consilerably exposed, and landiii.urisdillicult inconseciuence of the htnif Hat which extends off the beach. These winds, howevei-, are not of frequent occurrence. Half-tide rock, just awash at high water, lies 4 cables from the western shore of the bay. There is another rock which covers at a quarter Hood, lyinj? one-third of a mile N. i W. from the pier on the beach. The best anchorage is in H fathoms, muil bottom, with the southernmost of the white cliffs on Lopez island well open of Harbour r;.ick, bearing E. by N. ^ N. ; from this position the water shoals rapidly towards the shore, and at i\ cables nearer in, there are only ',i fathoms ; a stranger shouUl drop an anchor tlirectly 12 fathoms is obtained. North bay, iu the north-west angle of Griffin bay, immediately under Park hill (a bare grassy eminence about ISO feet hi;,di). affords * Sir Admiralty chart : — Orifliii bay, Xo. (ill ; scale, m bbH-O inch. ' Chill.. IV.] (illlFFIN HAY.— FIUDAY IIAIUIOUR. i;;o fjodd iiiiclior.i^c in rnmi 4 to 10 futhoiiis, iiiiid bottom, with all wimlrt Itiit thnsi' t'roiii S.K., Id which it is H feci over it and is marked by kelp u (juarter of a mile in extent. A sjiai- buoy, coU)ured in horizontal stripes, is im.ortMl with north extrenje of Dinner island W. by S. distant (I cables. Those without l(»cal kuowled|ije are recomnuMuUMl to pass Houthward of the shoal. Tidea and tidal streams.— The ran-je at the sonthern entram-e of Middle channel, at full and chanf,'e, is 12 feet ; Itiit lillle stream is felt at the anchorajjes. With the flood an ern sido is a rock nearly one cable in extent and 25 feet above high water. DOUQT-A.S CH/^NNEL, also called President ebannel, Ih the continuatid of Middle cliannel and leads into Ilaro strait, between Orcas and VValdron islands, 'riiere are other passiiges leailinj; into the Ilaro strait, viz., westward of Flattoj) island, l)etween it and Spieden and Stuart islands ; and eastwanl of Fiattoji, between it and Waldron island. In the former, the confused tide> and eijdies are liable to enlanck with its ofT-lyinj; dant,'ors offers serious iin])ediinents to the safe iiavijjation of the same class of vessels. If necessary, there ip iem}»orai'y anchorage in 12 fathoms in the bay, about 4 cables southward of the bill of Orcas. Directions. — The channel westward of Flattop island is less than one mile wide at its narrowest })art. Green iK)int of Siiiedeii island is stee])-to ; a tide-ri)» is generally met with off it. After pa.ssing Flatto)) island, the channel course is N.W. by N. until Skipjack island opens of Sandy point (Wahlron island), bearing N. by K. j 10., when a course may be shaped t-ither nj) or down Ilaro strait ; wiili the ebb, be careful not to get set into tlie channel betwe(>n Spicdeti and Stuart islands. The channel eastward of Flattop island. l)etween it and Whit«- rock, is about the same breadth as the one just de.scriln-cl, but Danger rock, with .'» feet on it, which lies a (piarter of a mile S.E. by E. from the centre of White rock, must " be carefully avoided. After passing Flatto]) island, keep its eastern side just touching the western point of .Jones island, bearing S.F. !^ K., and it will lead nearly three-quarters of a mile westward of Danger rock ; whi'ii Skipjack island opens out northward of Sandy point, bearing N. by E. ^ E., all the dangers are cleared. If passing between White rock and Disney point (the high stratified clifiC oft' Waldron island), the latter should be kept well aboard if the ebb is running, or a ves.sel is liable to be set on the rock. The west Srr chart, No. 2,840. 142 HARO AFlCiriPKTiAfiO, MIDDLK CIIANNKL. [Clifip. IV. I)lnir of Huciii shniiM l>y no iiumms Ix- shut in by tht'Houthi'ni part of WaMrun inliiiid (tluwi two poiiitH touching' luiul (hr('»'-(|Uiirti'i'H of u mile ciistwiii'd of I)aii;^t'r rock, hut it muHl he iviiU'inhtTt'il the ebl) H»'trt stron^'ly down on it), until Moimrch h<'ii(l is well sliut in with Siindy point, tlic hitter JM-arini,' N.W. I X., steer throu'fh with these marks on, and when White rock is in line with the west side of l''lattoi» isliinij, hearin;; S. \ \V., a vessel will l»e clear of all danj.;vrs, and laav steer eilher up or down Haro strait, ;,'iv'inj,' Sainl.v point a borth (d' half a mile. Tidal streams. —'IMmse in sailinur-vesselH workinir throuasHai,'o i.^ I [ inih'H wide, and iH almost frco from tide-rijm. LIGHT.— Patos or Alden point light is ji.ml nd of Hmall itowt'r. Fogr Sigrnal. — A trnmiu't yives l)larttH of li('i) xfi'ntiih duration, foliowt'd by a silont inti'rval of eit/ftfi'rn srcondfi. Directions. — If intondinf,' to tako the paHwaKi* ln'twct n Patos and Sucia ishuulH, oither up or tlown, an oxctdlent mark for t-U-arin*,' tin- IMumptT and (JIcmcntH ruefH (dangerous patches lyinj; southwanl and northward from Sucia) is to keej) the remarkable round summit of Stuart island (CA'i fei^t hi^'h) just open westward of Skipjack island, the westernmost wooded island north of Waldron, bearing' S.W. i S.; this leads well clear of both the reefs, and the same marks would lead across Alden ])ank in 4 fathoms. If taking' the i)assaf,'e from the Middle or I )ttuj,das channels, keep the whilc-fiHTd dills of H(tl)crts point well open wesiwarij of I'atos island, the dills iteariu",' N.X.W. .', W., until the marks bt-fore ilescr; beil [ire on, when steer thniu^'h the p;issa^n rlilli If the ebl» stream is running', il is better to keep the I'atos ishmd shore altoard ; Iti fathoms will be fouinl on the Sucia shore, but il is not recommended to anchor unless positively necesdarv. if staiulin^' north-eastward, Clark island, op«'n of the east eiul of Matia, or I'tillin islet, the former bearinj,' K.S.K., will lead eastward ot Clements reef. SUOIA ISLA.ND is indented on its eastern side i»y bays and inlets ; Sucia hai-b(Uir, the lar^'est of these, all'ords fair anchoraf,'e. The island is from 2(K) to 1500 feet hiv:h, thickly covered with i)ines, and its western side a series of steep wooded blull's. Plumper reef, or West bank, with 10 feet on it, lies 1{ miles S.W. by S. from Lawson blufF, tlu' hi^diest north-west point of Sucia island. There is a deep i)assa{,'e between Plumper reef and Suoia island, but it is not recommended. Clements reef, on which tht're is a depth of K feet, lies H miles N.K. I N. from Lawson bluil". Some rocky patches covering at hi>;h water, and marked l)y kelp, lie between Clements reef and Kwiuf? Scr nhnrt, No. 2,«»S0. 1 n m m \i\ ■i. I, 111 HARO AUCniPPJT-A(!0. MIOOLK CHANNRL. [Chil]). IV. iMJunil, ;in,'e on both sides of the reef ; that north wiiivl betwei-n it and SiK'ia is one mile wide, with depths from ;{') to ."),') fathoms; that southward, between it and Orcas, is half a mile wide, with deptha from (1 to S fathoms, but ii slranwer is recommended not to use it, as the points of Orcas at this part run otV shoul. S-e chart. No. U.ttSW. Chap. IV.] 8UCIA HAnnOUR.— LOPEZ IHLAND. 145 If tho uorthern iKiHsaf,'*' \h jihoiI, tho north part of Skipjack iHlaml, ki'pt in lino with tht; south oxtronu' di' IViuh^r islanil bearinj^ W.S W., leadH well clt-ar of I'iirkor nu-f. A part of tho ebb Htreain, tfettin<,j down bt'tweon Siu-ia and Matia irtlamlrt, nniH wt-stward Htron{,'ly over I'arkcr reef, and thr'»u},'h tin- chaiiiit'ls on both sidcrt of it ; the lloou rtt'tH in till! contrary direction. A patch of '.) fathoms lies a (juarU-r of ;i mile W.S.W. fritin Parker n-t'f, witli 1 to r> fathoms cxtcndiiij,' onc-tliird of a niilo from its west side. Matia Island, about <»ne mile eastwai-d from Sueia, is about one mile in e.xtent, east and west ; on its SMUtbern side an .sevt nil boat coves. Close olf its eastern extreme is Pullin islet, oil which a Hat rock extends 1.^ cables. Skipjack and Pengruin islands an- .small islamls lyinp close (»IV the north side ol Wuldron island ; the fornu'r is considerably the larj^er, and is wooded ; the latter is small, i,'r;issy, and bare of tnn'H. A reef which covers, and is markeil by kelp, lies between the two, but bc'tween thi.-: re«'f and Skipj.ick island there is a narrow passjige t)f .S fathoms. The liilal streams, Intwever, set stronj,dy be thoroiif^'hly ac'iuainted with the navigation. LOPEZ ISLAND, the southernmost island (»n the eastern side of Middle ehaniiel, is '.• miles loni,', N.N.W. and S.S.IO., and '.\ mih's wide, thickly wooileil, iiut dill'ers from all the otlur islands of the archipelajjo in bein;^ much lower and almost Hat, except at i(H northern and so'.'thern extremes, where tdevations occur of ii few hundred feet, li i southern side is mm-li indented by Icijs ami crei'ks, w';U(;ij, however, from their exjiosed positi(m and rocky nuture, cannot be reckoned on as anelioraijfs, Maokaye harbour, on (he s.iuth coast of Lope/, island, "I miles eastward of the iiitrance to Mi Idle clianni-l, is entered bi'tween .lennis {loint on tiie south, and \a)\\<^ and ( harles islands on the no''lh ; from the latter it takes an t-asterly direction for one mile, and and then trends southward for a short «!iatance, terminaiim,' ii. a low sjindy beach. In the entrance lliert' are tlepths «)f from M to 12 fathoms, muddy l)ottom, but with the prevailinK south-westerly win»U the anchora;,'.' is a mnul dtial ex|iostd ; with northerly or Hev oluurt, No. 2,UtfU. BO 11W» \ ; I 146 HARO ARCHIPELAOO, MIDDLK CHANNEL, [Chap. IV. easterly windn there would be fair anehftniffe. Ooasters or Hmall vesHelH (Invwin^ 12 ft't't may get sheittT in the Houtli bight ; .Icmiis point Mhotihl bo pasHed at about '.) cabli's distant ; the anciionigc in \\ inih'H from it. With Honlli-wt'slrrly winds tlic coast and islan.ls on tli'- tastt'rn side of Middh' channel entrance, between VV'jjah' rocks and .U-nnis point, Hhoiiid b(* avoided, as tiien a consiileral)le sea sets in ; and when passing the coaat between Jennis point and cai)e Colville, it is th'sirable to keep one mile off shore, at) Home straggling rocks exist, which will be tn-ated ', and must be avoided wheii working up the channel. Large vessels working up are recommended not to approach nearer than a ijuarter of a mile. Careen creek, <>ii the west side (tf Lopez island, is 1 miles fron> the south entrance of Middle channel, and its entrsvnce lies 'i mili's K. \ N. from Turn island. The western enlriince point is a low ttiiiuly si)it, close nuind which there are :' fathoms water, and on it a vessel might, in |)erfect shtdter, lu' beached and n'paireil with much facility ; the creek terminates in a large salt lagoon. Uprig^ht channel, st'itaniting Lop»'z from Shaw island, is a deep passage, leading from Middb^ channel tu the sounds Orcas and Lopex, and by several ))as8ages into Kosari** str.iit. The narrowt»st part is scarcely 2 cables wide. Flat point is a low shingle or saiuly point, with grass and small btishes on it, steep-to. C.moi* island is fring«Ml by kel|), and a rock marked l»y kel;. lies oint of Canoe island ; the luily precaution neo-Ksary is to avoid the rock off the .south point of the island. Shoal bay, close eastwanl of Fpright hill, extends S.S.K. one mile to its head, and is separated from False bay in Lope/ sound l>y .*<< chart, No. 2,ttH9. : 3. TV. iKO in ist<'rn ; IIU«1 e, it irt exiHt, iliiitt'ly ,. clilV, \i>r (»n«* liiiniu'l. nt';ir»'r t'rt from ■2 mili'H (»n it u h much Lopt'/M t i>iirt in nd unuill h..!';. Ii*''< M-f not IS ill iili ,>'«t\VHr*l lot* Civmif oil" tlM^ I).Vj. one kouml by Chap. IV.] MACKAYE HARHOm.— LOPKZ SOUND. 147 a low neck of land one eablo acrosH. Although aMparently a con- HidcrahU' shi'ut of wuttT, the anchoriim) for lan.t' vcsaeln is much liiuiti'd by a shoal which extends more tlian half way across from just within the point of Upri,t north and south, 2 cables east and west, and liea almost in the cei tre of th»' soup.J, its north end being a nuarter of a mile S.S.K. fron the south end of Frost island, lietween Middle bank and Housto i island there is anchonige in any ))art of the sound in from '> to 7 fiatioms, nnid bottom. Just abn'ast Maury paswige (l)etween tiie south end of Decatur a?id th(^ north-east point of L< jje/), the water th'epens to KJ antl ir> fathoms, and this depth ih maintained for I.^ miles, or as far na Crown islet, a small steep rovky Ish't on the eastern side, within one mile of the head of the sound. Tidal streams. —Tliere is hiit little stream of tidi" felt in Lopez sound, unless in the immediate :.fighb(»urhood of the narrow passiiges from Kosario stmit. Entrance shoal, with 1 fathoms y K. { K. from I'pright point, and half a mile from the shore of lilakely islaiul ; there is deep water on either side of it. .S,r chart. No. 2,68», SO lli)48 KS *r~" :t I i I iil 148 HARO ARCHIPELAOO, MIDDLE CHANNEL. [Chap. IV. False bay (also callod Swifts ]);iy) Ih on the west side of the sound, one niile from Sh(Kil b.iy. A shoiil, of 2 fathoins, i'xt(MidH from tlio ccntnj of Falst! bay, and connects with the small island Arbutii.s, lyinj? in its entrance, and renders it un/it for anehorajs'e except for small vessels ; but vessels may anchor in H fathoms south- ward of Arbutus, between it and Frost island. Half-tide rook, coverinj; at half flood, and not marked by kelp, is in the track of vessels enterin;,'. It lies threi'-tpiarters of a mile S.K. by K. }, Vj. from St'paration point. It is better to pass eastward of it, wluin it is not visible ; tlie point aration point, bearin,' \V. by N. } N., uniil the clay clilf of Gravel spit is in line with the east point of Arbutus island, bearing,' S. by K., will lead ch-ar of it. Fr03t island, lialf a mile loiii,' north and south, lies close off fJravcd spit on the west side of the sotnid ; it is wo idcd, iind its western side ji steep cliff, bi'twe.'U whieli and the spit end ile-re is a narrow chantud with a di'pth of ') f'allioms. Black aad Crown islets.— Hlack islets are a ridfje of steep ro;'ky islets, lyin-,' within and across tlie entrance of Maury passajje ; at 2 cables S. by W. from the southernmost of these ish^ts Is a rock which covei-s at (juarter flood. There is a p.issa<,'o of S and l) fathoms on either side of (!rown islet, and anclioraj^e above* it in ;') or (i fathoms, but do not proceed far above, as at one-third of a mile it shoals to one antl 2 fathoms, and dri«'S for a considerabh* distance from the lieiid of the sound ; then! is also ^,'00.1 anchora^^e in .'> fathoms in the lii^dil, n'l-stward of Cn wn islet. Passin;^ up the sound between Crown islet and the western shore a rocky i)itch of 2 fathoms must bi- avoided ; it lies a (luartes" of a mile W. by N. from Orown islet, and 1 cables from the western .shon! of the sound ; (here ai'e 12 fathoms close to it, and ileep water in the passajjfe on either side of il. THATCHER PA. -SAGE. b»'tw.en Hlakelyand Decatur islands, is the widest and most convenient i»assa;ie into Lope/ sound from Uosario str.iit ; it is 1 J, miles in le::{;fth, and its narrowest part 4 cables wide, with a f,'eneral depth of frotn 20 to 2.') fath. Cliaj). IV.] THATCllKU AND «)r.STnUCTION PA.SSAiiBS. V.) point, i'lii'i-t' [h :i good piwrtii^ ^ on rithcr side of tlu' roclt, but that to tho HoutiiWiird is the Itotler. The Hoiithorn I'df^o, of LiiWHon rot-k is niarlictl by a can Imoy, painted nnl and l>lack in hori/.ontal stripow. Directions. — Kntcrin/,' Thatdicr passa^'c from tlu- souliiward, if tho Hood is runnini,', the south siion' sliouid In- kcjit pretty elose aboard, jw until well within the i)asria{4;e it st^ts ujt towanls LawHon rock. When the ])arisajjr<' between Decatur and James islands is shut in by Faiuitleroy jioint, a vessid will be just westward or inside tho rock. Those enterihf^' by ThiiUher passage, and drawing (»ver IS feet, should avoid the Middh^ bank by keipiiig llie soiilii sliore altoard within 2 ca))les ; White roek in line with the smith point of lUakv iy island leads over the tail of the shoal in '2^) f«'et. The flood stream sets from Hosario strait through Tliateher passage both up and down the sf)UiKl ; a slight stream of Hood also enters the souiul from tlu' northward. Maury passage, between Decatm- island and ihe north-east jioinl of Lopu/, is the southernmost entnince to the sound from UoKirio strait. It is scarcely 2 eaI)l(^H wide at the entrance, with a ilepth of 12 fathoms; the Black islets lie across the westttrn entrance, and it is necessary to keep to the southwanl, between (Iwui ind Lxls, although tlu-re would be no dillieidty with a leading wind and fair tides. Small vi-ssels would tind no dilliculty if the tides wei\> prt)perly taken advantage of. LIGHTS. — A tiered white light is e.vhibited from a po.st on the north -oast point, »nd a fixed red light from the south-west extrojue of Obstruetiou island. North Obstruction pass is about 1 1 miles long, its average breadth 2 cables, the narrowest |>u.rt (less than two cables) occurring d$c duurt, No. 2,uay. F"^ 150 IIAUO AUCHIPELAOO, MlUDLB CHANNEL, [Chilp. IV. ! 1 ! i 11 i-l M I If V, I just lifter making thu bciul ; tlio fjoneral depth iB from S to 11 I'iitlioins. Ill coiiHcqucnce of the b<'ii fathoms. After passing Bird rock steer southward of ('nine island, between it and ('liff island and thence between Crane island and the north end of Shaw islaml. .Vpproaching the east end of Crane island, the elianiiel nairuurt lo one «Ml»le. 'I'lie steep elilVv coast of Sliaw island mii -( Mnu be kept aboard to av(»i»l Passage rock, which lies 1^ i-abh-s eastward of Passage island. Nob islet, just touching the florlh end of (Miff island, and just open southward of the south side of Crane island, leads onv cable H(uith of I'assjige rock, which is coveri'd at '2 feet rise. See chart, No. 2,68U. J ii I ^f^ 152 IIAIU) AllOHlIM':LA(iO, MIUDLK CIIANNKIi. [('llilp. IV. Wliuu Urciis iiolj is over tlir iuutkw parttia^'n Ik'Iwi'c.i DouI)!- iriliiiuls and (Ik^ west .shori- of VV^^st soiiiitl, bnariii'^ N.N.W. ,f W. a vcsHt'l is eastward of Passaj,'!} rook, and may steer up West souii'l, or eastward for East sound, »u' Itosario strait. Passing out of West sound the sumo marks are etjually ^ood ; steer ilown just westward of IJrokeii point (a iiimarkable cliU'y peninsula on the iiortli side of Hii'aw island) until they are in line, wlien steer for them, f^ivin^,' the south side of Crane island a moderate berth, and passing out of Wasp channel, as before directed for entering it. If desired, pass into Wasp channel southward of Yellow island, between it and Low island (a small islet), thence northward of Nol) ish^t, and us before directed, between Crane and (Jlilf islands. There is another passage into Wasp channel southward of ('lill' island, between it and Neck point, the remarkable western o.xtreme of Shaw island. The lireadth between them is one cable, but there is a patch of 4 fathoms, with kelp on it, in the centre »d" the jiassage. If taking this channel there is a reef Ijing S.W. \ S., and o.xtending more than a (quarter of a mile from the south-west end of Olill" island ; this reef is sometimes covered. Those two latter passa.res are llu' shortest into Wasj) channel for Vessels from the southward. Tho oyo will bo found the best guide ; a good look-out is vocessary, and to a stoam-vessol there is no dilliculty. Tidal streams. — Vhe Hood stream sets west in the eastern entranc(( of Wasp channel, but in tho western entrance the Hood from tho Mitldle chaniud jtartiallj' sots eastward, anil causes some ripplings among the islands, which may be mistaken for shoal water. Norttl passag'e.— This clear deep channel leading to Deer harbour, tlu' westernmost port in Orcas island, is between Stoop point and reef island. It is neaiiy a«iuartt'r of a mile wide, and the danger to avoid is the reef oil" tiie west side of the latter island. A patch of 2 fathoms lies nearly one cable S.W. by W. from the north-west point of Hrown island. ORCAS ISLAND is the most extensive in Ilaro archipelago, and contains tho tinost harbours. It is mountainous and in most parts thickly wooded, altho'.igh in tho valleys there is a consid-.^able .*yv ohart, No. 2,08'J. Ohap. IV.] Wasp channel.— dkbr hauiiouu. m portion of hiiul iiviiiliibU' for af^riruihinil purposoH, utid iKirtiiilly clear of timber. Its Houtliorn Hiili^ in rtinj^ularly indoiitetl by iloop sountls, which in some places aimortt divide the iali'Tiu ; this in invrticularly the case in the Eirtt sound, s.'parate I only from Georf,'ia strait by a low neck of land one mile across. On the eastern si le of this sound mount Con.stitution rises to an elevation of 2,r.'() feet, wooded to its summit. On tlm west side is the Turtle back, a lonj,' wooded ran),'e l,t)i>l) feet hi,!,'h, and west of it, risin-,' immediately over the nea, is the Hin;,'ular bare-top cone known as Orcasnob, a remarkable object when seen either from the north or south. Deer harbour and We.st and East .sounds are on the south side of tlie island ; but on the western and northern sides there is no convenient anchorage. A vessel might droj) an anchor, if necc8.sary, southward of tlie Hill of Orcas (a remarkable projecting bare point, with a nob on its extreme), where 12 fathoms will be found within one cable of dm shore ; a small vessel might also anchor in 4^ fathoms, just inside Freeman islet, u small islet in the bay two-thirds of a mile southward of the Hill. The north coast is precipitous, excejjt between the Hill and Thompson point, a distance of 2i miles; here occurs the low laml at the head of East sound, and the i)oints are shelving, with large boulder stones extending some distance oil" ; immediately oil this part of the coast is Parker reef. Thompson point is bare and clifTy ; from it the coast forms a hligiit curve easterly to l/.iwrenee p )int, dislant iJ mile.s. Lawrence point, the sloping termination of the high range of mount Constitution, is the eastern extreme of Orcas island ; on its northern side it is a steep and almost perpendicular olid', and from it the coast turns abruptly souihwartl, forming the western sitle of lio.sjirio strait. ( y: DEER HARBOUR, the westt-nnno.st of the three jtorts of Orcas island, is conveniently enl( n'd from the Middle channel by North passage, or between the latter and Hrown islan i* 151 haho AnciiiPELAoo, midjjlk channel. [CImi). IV. IWdwofii Fiiwn iwlyt hiuI the woHttTii Hhore i.s u jKiHrtii^o one culilc \vl t'athoniH. A reef extt^iuls from the north m\e of Cmne iHhinil ; if working' u|) the liarhour, do not HtanU ho far eantwanl aH to Hhiit in the i-aHl end of Clitr island behind the wewt end of Cmne iHhmd ; tliirt will k-ad nutre than one eahh' clear of the reef. Anchorage. — A eonvenlent berth iw in 7 fatliomn, innd, half-way between Kawn iHlet and the eaHtern Hhore, or a .snnt,' anchorage, in .') fatlioniH, will ])e fonnd a qnarter of a mile northward of the iwlet. WEST ORCAS SOUND may be entered from Miihlle channel, elthi'r by Wasp or Uitri;,dit pasHaf^'eH already deseribed (hcc l)a^'e 14<»), or from lionario strait by eitlier of the Obstruction passes {hi'c pajfe 1-1*.)). Ilaviiif,' entered by Wasp paflsa;,'e, cleared I'assii^'e rock, ami beinj? »»ll' ]5roken point, West sound will be (tpen N.W. \ N, for more than 2 miles, with Orcas nob immediately over the head of it. The sound is about three-quurterH of ii mile broad, with depths of from 10 to It) fathoms. Anchorag'e may be had in any i)art above Double islands, which lie close oir its western shore, half a mile N.W. from l?roken point, but thti snuggest anchonigo, and the best for vessole intending to make any stay, is either in White Heach bay, on the eastern shore, or in Massacre bay at the north-west head of the sounil. There is good anchonige in I) fathoms, with Sheep islet bearing N.E. i N. Massacre bay is the continuation of the head of West sound, l)ctwcen llaula and Indian points, and the anchorage is nearly one mile above White Heach bay. Harbour rock, covering at one-third Hood, lies almost in the centre of the Ixiy, between the two entrance points, one-third of a mile W. | S. from Ilaida point ; it may be passed on either side in a depth of 9 fathoms. If to the eastward, Ilaida point should be kv\)t Avithin U cables ; if to the westward, the eastern did'y part of Urokeii point, and the eastern side (»f Double islands kept in line bearing S.K. [, S., leads nearly one cable westward (»f the r»)ck ; when Indian point bears South, good anehoragi- will be found in the centre of the bay in en that point and Eliza island. j!i • St* Admiralty chart :— Ilaro and Rosario straits, No. 2,68J> ; scale, vi = 0*5 inches. : 15S UOSARIO STRAIT. [Chap. V. ThoHO entorinf? Jnan do Fuca strait, and bound to any of the ports of I'uget sound, or up Rosario strait, oithor by day or night, should make New Dungjuess light, which is (59 miles from the light at Talitosh islantl (wv; p. 27), and then Smith or T^lunt island. Tidal StreaolS. — The stnMiu-; in Uosario strait ai'e strung, from 3 to 7 knots in the narower parts. SMITH or BLUNT ISLAND lies almost in the centre of the entcrn end of Jum d.' Fiio.i sti-ait, 1:5 miles N.N.K. J, K. from New Dungeness, and (! miles South from the entrance of Rosario sti-ait. It is about lialf a mile in Irngth, clifFy at its western end, and ;')() feet high ; a large kelp patch extends 1.', miles from the western cxlri'ine, whicli sliould be avoided ; therc^ are (5 fathoms on its outer (ulge. From the eastern end of the island, which is low, a sand spit extends three-quarters of a mile N.E., partially covi^ed at high water ; on the north side of this spit there is anchorage in 5 fathoms, sandy bottom, about half a mile from the shore, but no vessel should lie here with any appearance of bad weather. Beacon. — A beacon has been erected on Minor island, at the extremitj' of the spit extending from the eastern end of Smith or Blunt island. LIGHT. —On the summit of Smith or Blunt island, near the west end, is a lighthouse painted white, with a black lantern, from which, at an elevation of DO feet above the sea, is exhibited a Jlaaliing white light every half minute, visible in clear weather from a distance of 15 miles. Tidal stream. — The ebb stream here, as in the narrower straits, runs from 2 to 2.t hours after low water. Directions. — Having made Smith island, which those bound from sea up Rosario channels should do on about a N.E. \, E. bearing, it may be passed on either side ; but to the northward appears most convenient. When Dungeness lighthouse bears S. by W. keep it on that bearing, astern, steering N. by E., which leads midway between Smith island and the Fonte bank, lying .', miles W. by N. .\ N. from Partridge i>oint. Those from the southern parts of Vancouver island, bound up Rosario strait, sliould pass nortliward of Hmitli island, avoiding Salmon bank, with 10 feet over it, o.f tiie soutli end of San .Juan, and Davidson rock olf Colville island. I\[ount Erie (on Fidalgo island) in line: with Jennis ])!>iiit, bearing X.K. by K. \ K., leads Ij miles South of the former, ami it is not reijomineiided to pass the southern side of Lopez island at less than one mile distant, which will ensure clearing ihe latter ; moreover, llio coast is rocky, and the Hood stream sets on to it. There are several indei^tations, with sandy beaches, on the south side of Lopez, wliicii, although offering shelter for boats, are not recomnionded as anchorages for vessels. Cape Oolville, or Watmouth head, the south-eastern extreme of Lopez island, is the western entrance point of Rosirio strait ; Watmouth hill, flat-tojjped, and about l.')() feet high, rises immeiliatidy over it. Oolville island, small, and bare of trees, about 40 feet high, lies one mile S.S.W. from the cape ; close to the cape, and appearing from most points of view a part of it, is Castle island, a high precipitous rock. Entering the strait, Colville island should be given a berth of one mile. Davidson rook, on which is a depth of 4 feet, and occasionally uncovering at low springs, lies a little more than I? cables East from the east end of Colville islanl, and nearly one mile South from the caps itself; kdp grows ab )ut the rock, but the patch is so small that it is dilUcalt to mike out. A bl lok can buoy. No. 1, in 2(1 feet, marks Davidson rock. Kellett island, or cape St. Marj', kept open of the extreme of cape Colville, beiring N.N.W., lea Is half a mile eastward of the rock, and Eagle point (San Juan) kept open of the south end of Lopez island, bearing W. ] N., leads one mile southward of it. See chart, No. 2,689. n 160 ROSARIO STRAIT. [Chap. V. Kellett island is a small tlat-topped islet, covered with grass. lying immediately northward, and close off the low extreni'j of cape Colville. Cape St. Mary, the next point northward of cape Colville, and a little more than one mile from it, forms the southern point of Davis bay. Kellett or Hulah ledge, with one fathom on it, and marked by kelp, lies 3 cables N.E. by N. from cape St. Mary ; there is a deep passage between it and the cape. When passing outside it, give the cape a berth of over half a mile. Davis bay, also called Shoal bay, affords good and convenient anchorage in moderate depths. After rounding Kellett ledge, stand westward into the bay, and anchor in fathoms, mud bottom, a little more than half a mile from the shore, with capo St. Mary bearing S.E. by S. ; inside this the water shoals rather suddenly to 2^ and 3 fathoms. A kelp patch, on which there is shoal water, lies one mile N. by W. from the cape. There is anchorage in from 4 to 8 fathoms anywhere within one mile of the east coast of Lopez and Decatur islands, from a little northward of cape St, Mary, as far north as the white cliff of Decatur island, avoiding the kelp patches just mentioned, or while the Bird rock bears anything northward of East, and but little tide will be felt. With the Maury passage open, bearing West, there is good anchorage, at from half a mile to one mile from the shore, in from 6 to 8 fathoms. BURROWS BAY, on the eastern side of the entrance to Rosario strait, is well marked by mount Erie, a remarkable conical hill, rising 1,300 feet immediately over it, at one mile from the coast. The bay is sheltered from westerly and south-westerly winds by Burrows and Allan islands, and affords good anchorage to vessels wind or tide bound. LIGHT. — A fixed white light is exhibited from the end of the wharf in Burrows bay. Williamson rock, 22 feet above high water, lies in the southern entrance of the bay, half a mile south of Allan island. ^■1 i See ohart, No. 2,680. i Chap, v.] BUBROWS BAY.— DECEPTION PASS. ir.1 good re. in losano rising |ie bay fa and Ir tide )f the Lthern Dennis rock. — There is a deep channel half ii milt wide between Williamson rock and Allan ishmd, but those taking it. or working up westward of the latter island, must avoid Dennis rock, which has 2 feet on it at low water and rarely uncovers. It lies nearly (5 cables N.W. by W. from Williamson rock, and the same distance W.S.W. from the south end of Allan island. Anchoragre may be hafl in <» fathoms, with the passage between Barrows and Allan islands open, l)earin<,' W.H.W., half a mile from Young island ; but the most sheltered anchorage is in 12 fathoms at the north head of the bay, half a mile from the eastern shore of Burrows island, with tlie passagi' shut in, and Young islaml liearing S. l)y W. .', W. : if, however, only a temporary anchorage is desired, the former will be found the most convenient. Directions. — The best entratice, which is one mile wide, is eastward of Williamson rock, b«^tween it and Fidalgo island. The eastern shore of the liay is shoal for ;j cables off the beach, and in one spot a bouhler, awash at low water, lies nearly 4 cables otl". and nearly l.V miles E. by N. h N. from the south point of Allan island. Those from the northward may enter Burrows bay by the passage northward of Burrows island, or between the latter and Allan island ; they are about an equal breadth, a little over 2 cables wide at their narrowest part, and lie nearly east and west ; the latter is the straighter. Tidal streams. — The ebb stream sets to the eastward into both passages, at the rate of 3 to 4 knots during springs. DECEPTION PASS.— At 2 miles southward of the .south entrance to Burrows bay is a narrow channel separating Fidalgo from Whidbey island, and communicating with Admiralty inlet and Puget sound ; but it is only eligible for such small vessels or steamers commanded by those well acquainted with the locality. The tidal streams set through it with great velocity. LIGHT. — A Ji.ird u-hUr ligiit is exhil)ited from the south-west extreme of Fidalg from cape Co^ville, is composed of three detached rocks close tofjether, the southernmost beinj; the larjjest, and ^0 feet above high water. There is deep water closer to it, hut on account of the strong tidal streams, sailing-vessels working uit or down, paiticn- larly during light winds, are recommended to give it a berth of half a mile. There is an equally good passage on either side of the rock ; that to the eastward is the wider (2 miles across) ; to the westward it is one mile wide, with somewhat less tide. Hy taking the lattt'i- channel with a leading wind, a stranger will more easily avoid Belle rock ; i)assing Bird rock at a convenient distance, steer just outside, or to the eastward of James island, until the i)assage l)etween fTuemes and Fidalgo islands is open. Belle rock, the most serious danger in lht> Hosario strait, oidy uncovers near low water, and the tidal streams set over it from 2 to .') knots. It lies (! cables N. l>y ¥,. | E. from the Bird rock, and in the passage between them are dei)ths of to ex])ec1 an anchor holding in so strong a tideway. James island, almost divided in the centre, is a remarkable saddle island with a double summit, 2o() feet high, lying close oft" the east side of Decatur island. »•/• chart. No. 2,689. i Chap, v.] DRC'RPTTON PASS.— BKLLTNGHAM CHANNKh. \h:\ in iv a (1 of line u-ini? 1 hv w. 11 ijji'eal light •1 an ablo the White and Black rooks are tlirue-quarterri of ii mi If ;4,art. and lie off the nouth-east coast of lihikely island. White rock, tin southernmost, is Id feet above high water and a little more than a tiuarter of a mile from the shore at the eastern entrance of Thatcher passage. Black rock, 14 feet high, lies three-quarters of a mile N.K. by X. from White rock, and half a mile from Blakely island ; there is a deep channel between these rocks, as als»» between them and Blakely island. An iron perch, "20 feet high, surmounted liy a barrel, painted black and white in horizontal stripes, stands on the highest part of the rock. BELLINGHAM CHANNEL, between Guemes and Cypress islands, is al)out iU miles long and three-quarters of a mile wide in its narrowest part, between East point and Guemes island. Abreast the northern end of Guemes island, which is ?. steep IduflC named Clark point and on the western side of the channel, are several small, high, wooded islets, named the Cone islets. Should the wind be light and the tide flood, pass close to Clark point to avoid being set past Sinclair island. Guemes Ohannel, south of Guemes island, leads into Padilla bay and eastward of the island to Bellingham bay. At the western entrance, ou the southern shore, is Ship harbour. City of Seattle rock, with a least depth of '.) feet, lies on the south side of the channel. A red nun buoy, in 14 feet, lies 155 yards E.S.E. of the rock, with the south point of Guemes island X.W. by W. i W., and the wharf at Anacortes N.E. § N. LIGHT. — A /i.red whUe light is exhibited on March point, Fidalgo bay. Directions. — With strong flood tide and clear weather vessels pass through Guemes channel instead of through Bellingham channel. The usual route is through Bellingliam channel and northward of Vendovi island. With ebb tide small vessels use Hale passage. With flood tide pass between Viti rocks and Carter jioint, then across to the north- ward of Orcas island, passing between the island and i'arker reef. tkr chart. No. 2,ri89. so 11948 L2 r 1 1 , i I ', ^ • i I « } i •■ i " ■I t I t'rt UOSAUK/ STRAIT. [rillil.. V BELLINQHAM BAY.— 'Llw >,'ciit ml ilirt'c-ii<»n of this hay is iiurfli anil soiitli ; it is 4 miles in widtii and U inilt-s lniii,', inflndin*,' t li(! hroad flats at cither end. In the north-eastern eorner of the bay are the vilhifjes Bellinj,'hain, Selione, and Whateoni. 'I'lu're are coal mines near these villajjfes, hut the amount of eoal is not f^reat and the quality is poor. Half a mile from the shore thiu-e is j,'ood anehorau'e in 4 fathoms, soft sticky bottom. Tlndcrlyin-j: this soft liottom there is a stratum of sandstone, which i)revents the anchor from holding, and ves.selri draj? with south-easters, which bl and 7 knots. Strawberry bay, on the western side of Cypress island, will be known by the small island of the same name, which lies immediatedy otf it, l.j miles N.W. from Heef point, and protects the l)ay from the westward ; it is rather a confined anchorage, and at certain times of tide w<»uld be difficult of entrance to a sailing-vessel. 'riif bay is exposed to 8.S.H winds, which, however, do not fre- t|iieniiy i)low : from S.E. it is sludtered, and there is no reason to Sf<' clmrt. \o 2.r.s>,i i Chap. V.J UKLMNCHAM IIA Y. -SISCI, A I U ISI.WI). I (..J >ut riui l»'iy ti w ll'iv to (iouht l)iM that, with ^'ood i,'r(»im(l tackh', a \fsst'l woiihl i'i*s irthiiitls ; ami in the t-vciit of j)artiii^' or Hlijtpiiij;, run throii^'h this pas.saj,H', and talvi- shelttT in Hiirhor Si'niiahinoo l«iys. In a sailiu^'-vi'ssfi do not attempt lo enter tlu' l)ay durinj,"- the strt'nf.'th ol' ilu' tidi-, iinK-ss witli a conunandinj,'' l>rt'»'Zt', and rt'nifinlu'r that tlie ti(U'S set with trrrat sin-nyth aj^'ainst tlie points ol' Strawherry island ; it was rt'inaikcil that, while the ehh was ninniii),' stronf.'ly in Uosario strait, which it eontiiuies to do for 21 hours after low wator, a stream of Hood set to tlu' northward throii;;h Straw- herry hay, as soon as it was h>w water hy the shore. Anchor alioiit '.') cables from the aandy bight of the bay, with the north bluff of Strawberry islaml bearing W.X.W., and the south poitit of this island S.W. by IS., this is the best berth, in 7 fathoms, good holding ground, and nearly out of the tide, which sets with considerable strength inside Strawberry island. There is a belt of flat marsh-land in Strawberry bay, through which several streams of good water run from the mountains. Rock islet, a small rounil islet covered with trees, lying nearly '2 cables northward oi' the north eiid of Typress island, has its shores scattered with large bonldei- stones. There is a passage of 9 fathoms water between it and Cypress island ; I)ut the ebb stream sets with j^ioat strength to the southward, and. indeed, close round the wewtern points of the latter island. Cypress reef, lying otie-third of a mile W. I S. from Hock islet, is a dangerous rocky patch, covering at half flood, with kelp growing about it. James island kept open of Tide |)oint, the west point of Cypress island, hearing S. -J K., leads westward of the reef. SINCLAIR ISLAND, ihickly wooded, and comparatively low, lies north-east WMril of (Cypress island, with a ileep passage, of nearly one mile wide, between them, leading to Bellingham channel. Shelving rocks project a short distance ott' its western shores. Boulder or Panama reef, u dangerous shoal, extends nearly half a mile in a W.N.W. direction off the north-west extreme of Sinclair island, some parts of it uncovering at half tide ; a large boulder stands on the inner part of the reef. Great quantities of St'f- chart. Nil. -'.i>8'.'. I 1 i 1 II 'I K I i ' 1. ,t i il M It ici; KOHARIO STRAIT. [(.'hup. V. kelp ^'^^^v in ihe lU'iKiil'oiirhond, hut it in .sonu'tiiucrt rim mitliT by the tide or concwilotl l)y the ripple ; tlicrc art- tl fathoinn t'lorte to the odi^o of tho kelp. By keeping,' CyprenH cone oju'ii wt-stwiird of Uoi-k islet, or the Htniit iM^tweeii CypresH luid HIakeij isliiiids well open, leaiU weritw.ird of this reef. A red nun buoy in moored nortiiwiird of the reef. PeapodS aro two HnudI rocky islets, bare of trees, lyiu),' half a mile from tlie \\«'stcni shore of Kosario strait, and from 1| to nearly 2 miles southward from Lawrence ])oint. They are three-(|uarters of a mile apart in a N.X.K and S.S.W. direction, the northernmost ])einf,' tin' hirj,'er and hi«,'lier. A little westward of a line drawn between them is a rock which just covers at hijfh water. Metwfeen I'eapod islets and Obstruction pass, there is consiilenibiy less tide than in the main stream of the stiiiit, and if necessary a vessel may drop anchor within half a mile of (lu shore iu about 16 fathoma. LawrenCB point, the eastern extreme of Orcas, is a louj; sloping; point, the termination of the ridge of mount (Constitution ; imme- diately on its uorth sith' it rises in high, almost perpendicular cliffs, and trends westward, falling back for l\ miles in a somewhat deep bight, which is rocky, a k' is unsheltered. Anchorage may be had, if necessary, on the eastern side of Rosario strait, within one mile of the shore in 1") fathoms, between Sandy and Whitehorn points, northward of Lunmii island. Tidal streams. — After passing northward of Lawrence point, the ebb streaut sets to the eastward between Orcas and the small islands to the northward of it as well as to the S.p]. through the northei-n entrance of the strait : wdien in the vicinity of Alden bank, or about »S miles N.W. of Lawrence point, the strength of the streams sensibly decrease, and while eastward of a line between this bank and Roberts point, a vessel will be entirely out of the strong streams of the archipelago and of Georgia strait ; it is recommended iluring the ebb stream to work up on this shore. LUMMI ISLAND is S miles long and very narrow. (;)u its south-western side it is high and precipitous, a remarkable double mountain rising 1,5(50 feet abruptly from the sea ; a small high double i-ocky islet lies close off the shore, :\ miles from its southern ikr chart, No. i',<5)S'J, ('Imp. v.] Sr.NCl.Alll ISI.VNI).— MM.MI ISLAM). 1»H rio hit, Vclll the ,nk, mis ink mis fmt; its am lM)iMt ; I'lnil ground t'Xtciids tVom its iinrtli-ut'st pniiit ; ami at alxmt S caltlt's S.S.W. [, \V. t'iDiii ("lifter point, its s.Mitli-i'ast point, lies V^iti rock. A n-ef extomls .'» cables tnini this rock in an E. by S. din'ction. A r(»rl< witli a (Ifi)tli of \'l t'ect lies half a tiiile W.N.W, from Mi(lj,'K'y point, the north point of Ihi' ishmd. A nun buoy, with l)lack and red horizontal stripes, lies westwiiril «d' the rock. Kuinini bay opens north-east ward of Jjniiini island, and is backed by marshy ;,'r(tnnd. Into it by several months [innimi river empties. The main eiii ranee of the river in the north part of the bay ciin only be reaeh"d b\ boats at lii^di tide. Sanily point, the north entrance l>oint of the bay, is low and grassy with a few bnshes upon it. Lig'ht. — A fi.ird irhifr light is exhibited on Lummi point, thi- iioi'th-east extreme of the isl.md. Hale passage, east of hnmmi ishiiul, loinH'cts with Hellingham bay. The northern einraiiee to the piisstige, tl\n I'-cjuarters of ;i mile eastward of Midgley point, is btirreil 1>\ v lidge of 2] fathoms. Towiirds the southern entrance the spit an* tward of Frtincis point is marked by a ivd nun buoy, and ii rec! sjjar 1 uoy marks the spit exten ling south-east of Frances point. A shoal t>f '.t feet lies about midwiiy bi tween Frances point :'!i(l Eliza islantl, and is marked by a ivil and lilack horizontally striped buoy on the southern edgi'. Clark and Barnes islands are two small wooded islands, '2 miles N.W. from Lawrence point , two smaller iak-ts, the SiHters, ban- of trees, and a high rock lie immediately S.E. of Clark island. There is a narrow channel with a depth of :^(> fathoms between Clark and Harnes islands, which a vessel may take if necessary. The tidal streams set strongly about the Sisters, and the I)e8t and most direct channel is between Clark and Lummi islands. When taking this cluuuiel the north point of Lummi island should not be ap])roached within one mile, as shoal and bnjkeii ground extends for some distance otl it : Sinclair ishmd kept jnst open westward of the n(n'th-west point of Lummi island leads westward of this foul grounil in 15 fathoms, and when the east end of Matia island, or Putfin islet close off it, is in line witli the north-west point (Bill of Orcas) bearing S.W. | W., a vessel will be northward of it. Matia island, o miles W.N.W. 'rom Clark island, is one mile in length east and west, moderately high and wooded, and has uomo Hee chart, No. 2,89. Cliiii). v.] ALDEN BANK. — DHAYTOX HARBOUR. J tilt 1 SEMIAHMOO BAY, between South and North bluffy, affords Huod auchoni^e in from (> to 8 fathoms, at about li to 2 miles outside Drayton harbour entrance ; a tjooil berth is iu (> fathoms, mud bottom, with South bluff bearing S. by E., and Tongue point bearing K. by X. This is always good anchorage, unless with a heavy S.W. gale, when vessels might take shelter in Drayton liarbour.* Fishing stakes fringe the shore, some extend into 11 fathoms and ai-e marked by a iv/ii/e light. An iron buoy lies with Seniiahm(»o post light X. by K., distant one-third of a mile. LIGHT. — X ticed rid light is exhibited on a cluster of piles in i\ feet water close to the steep sand bank, in the turn of the channel leading to Blaine. Supplies. — Wild fowl frequent this anchonigo in considerable numbers during the winter months. DRAYTON HARBOUR, at :}J, miles X. by H. from South Iduff, is formed l)y a remarkable b>w narrow spit over one mile long. The spit is covered with grass and drift timber, and a few pine trees grow on it.* Directions. — Outside Tongue spit a Ijank extends a considerable ilistance, do not approach tlie spit within three-quarters of a mile until its extreme point bears E. \ X., when it may l)e steered for and passed close-to. There is a depth of t fathoms at low water, in the fairway, at three-quarters of a mile outside the entrance ; the channel is narrow, and no one unac({uainted with the locality should enter before placing boats or poles on the edges of the shoals ; when within, it opens into a cunsiderable sheet of water, but it is for the most part shoal. Anchorage. — The anchorage is in from 7 to 10 fathoms ; it is [)erfectl\ sheltereil, and affords room for .'i or 4 large vessels, as well as sever..l small ones, ami on the inside of the spit a vessel might be beached for repairs. The only landing at low water is at the spit end, which is steep-to. Tidea. — It is high water, full and change, at Drayton harbour at 2h. p m. ; springs range 14 feet. * >'''• Adiniraity plan of Spinialimoo hay and Drayton harbour, Xo. 2.t>V7 ; loale, III = 4 iuolios. 170 ROHARIO STRAIT. [Chap. V, ii 'i i BOUNDARY BAY is lirtwrcn liobcrts poim on the west, and Nortli hlntt" or Kwo mais point (»n the east, which beai' S,W. \ S. and N.K. !, X. from eucli other, and are 7 niih's apart. 'Hhv hay extends i)i a northerly direction for nearly 7 niiles, and is only separated from the south bank of Ki-aser river by a low delta n niiles across, intersected by streams ami swamps ; it is very shallow and dries oft" '^ miles at low water, the ed^e of the bank in ;} fathoms "Water, extends 4?, miles off the whole of the north shore of the bay. Do not stand so far northward as to l)rin<,'' the whiti' bluH' of Roberts point to bear southward of S.W. by W. Fishinfj; stakes frin^'e the shore, some extend into 11 fathoms, and are marked by ;i ir/ii/i' li>,dit. Roberts point is the tei-mination of a remarkable promontory which stretches southerly from the ilelia of Kraser rivei- ; the eastern pttint of the promontoi-y is a remai-kable white diti, :2(M» feet hij^h, its summit crowned with trees: from it the land jjriailually falls west- wanl an Semiahnioo bay, and give Roberts point a berth of 2 nides in rounding ; neither of the anchorages at Iloberts point can be considered as more than stopping places, and during winter, l)e preparetl to weigh at short warning. ROBERTS BANK, formed by the alluvial tleposits of Fraser river, extends from Roberts spit W. l)y N. for 1>5 miles, to the Sand heads, at this point is .') miles from the shore ; it then takes a N.N.W. directi(m for a further distance of 12 miles, joining Grey |)oint. The portion of the bank northward of Fraser river is nanu'd Sturgeon bank ; it is steep-to, there being dei»tlis of from 70 to tiO fathoms at one mile from its edgi', shoaling suddenly to 20, and then to 2 fathoms. Two black beacons, 12 feet above high water, mark the edge of Roberts bank, and two similar beacons mark the edge of Sturgeon bank. GEORGIA STRAIT.— Having passed out of .luan de Fuea strait by either of the channels before described, when north- westward of a line si'»felt. At 7^ cables N.N.E. from Hacc point is a rocky patch of 5 fathoms, about 400 yanis in extent, and at about 2(10 yards to the north- westward of this patch there is a rock with only 11 feet water on it. Orcas Nob kept well open eastward of the east point cf Waldron island, bearing S.S.E. } K., leads in tlie fairway between Saturna and Patos islands, 1 j miles eastward of the rock ; and Toe point (Patos island), in line with tlu' north extreme of 8i;cia island, bearing E. -J, S., leads nearly three-quarters of a mile to the northward of it. A sunken rock, nuirked by kelp, with a depth of 2 feet on it and irregular soundings around, is situated 1{, cables E. by S. from Eilith point, north coast of Miiyne island. Ct.Ution. — As before observed (page U4j, when possible, pass midway between Saturna and Patos islands; on m* account give the East point of Tumbo island a berth of less than li miles, and it is recommended not to iipproiich the northern shores of the islands lying between Haro strait and Active jjiiss, within a distance of 2 miles ; and it is strongly urged to adhere strictly to this advice. The light on Georgina point, at the entrance to Active pass, becomes obscured when bearing westward of W. ^ S. ; aiivl it should be borne in mind that dui'ing the iiight while this light is in sight all the dangers oil' the northern shores of ihe above inlands will be avoided. It should also be remembered that the ebb sets H.W., through Active pass, and that tide nices occur in its northern entrance. Itoberts bank is easily avoid* d. The extreme of Roberts spit, or the tangent of the high trees immediately within it, should not be brought to bear to the south- ward of East ; if the weather is thick, when o(^ fathoms is struck, a vessel will be getting very near the edge. .V( chHi't, >'o. 'ifi^^. C'hiip. v.] CVrTlON.— FRASKIl RTVEH. 173 ee The tidal streams, iiltli<)n<,'h not nearly HO stronjf rtH among the Ilaro arcliipplajjo, yet run with considcralile stron<;th (8 knot8\ particularly dnrinnce entered (ieorgia strait l)y daylight, and noted which stream was r-unning. In the centre of the strait above Saturna and Patos islands, the sti-ength of the stream varies from one to ',\ knots, seldom more, unless close to the southern shores, which are swept l)y the rai)id stream out of (ral»ri(da, I'ortier, and Active passes. North- v.-est ward of the mouth •" ' ,„™ ,„„r. , but a, L„„p,„. rh" .'*i..h i„ ,„ f„„„„.« , ,,.:'.,';'" '""■'■ •■■;"v.,i.„„v a„. LIGHT -F,. '"'■" •' •"""»■ a 'l-la,,,,. „, ,. ,„i,„ I'^h'. v,s„„,. i,, ,,„„. ^.^^^^^^^ ^,^^2 , Fog- bell._i)„,i„,, thick ,„. f R'«e and fan Of the river - Ti, ■ - tHet above ,t., ]„„.e.., lov,.] , ,h„ ,, - ' "" '"'""■'' I is ,„,-|,a|„ Ma.v the wa,..,. ,,,,., , ' '" 'h.- ..,„, „,- „„„ ■'"ly o,. ,„i,|,„e of A„.„^, „'."""« """"atio,,. ,„„„ ,„„,„;' -■.-;i.^tt:;c:^;:•:;r:'™-":-'^^^^ f™n the ,ai,l,He to t|,o e„,| of r *■"• -P<«ml„.,, October, „„d Nov™ , 'i' 'T '—'»"'-^"y »,r„„„ -Uhe strength of the et",;"^.:"'':'',™"-': ''-''■ '<> .-eh ll "" 'ainer.s ope, 176 OEOROIA STRAIT. [Chap. V. ! praotioable nt all. The sna^fl or drift trees which become imbetlded in the river also form a serioiiH obstacle to iiavijjation at this season. In April the steamers commence again to run ; in June, July, and August the rapidity of the current is the great ol)stacle, but these high-pressure vessels, commanding a speed of 11 and 12 knots, frequently accomplish the voyage, though at much risk. Buoys and beacons. — A black beac(m with ball lies 7 cables S.W. bv W. from the lighthouse. A voi\ bell buov lies half a mile south-west of the rivei- entrance. A beacon is ])laced on Old North sand head S. by 1']. U, miles from the lifjhthouse ; and the western edge of Hturgeon bank is similarly marked by twn beacons N.N.W. distant 4 miles, and 7.\ miles respectively from the lighthouse. These beacons are each a cluster of three })iles surmounted by a cross ; they are coloured black, and the positions are approximate. The channel into the river is shewn by red buoys on the south side, and black buoys on the north. A beacon is placed on the east side of Westham island, on the south bank of the river, li\ miles within Garry point ; and two small spar buoys mark the sides of the channel (Woodward slough) eastward (tf the beacon. Tides gaugres avu i)laced on the northern side of the entnince channel abreast No. t> black buoy, a.id oii the east side of Annacis island, nearly one mile from the north end. Directions. — Coming from the northward. Passage island at the entrance of Howe sound, kept in line, or just open eastwaid of a remarkable peak on Anvil island within the sound, bearing' N. by W. I W., leads H miles clear of the edge of the Hturgeon bank. Having made the Sand-head lighthouse, and the bell buoy, steer for the entrance, and enter the channel, leaving the black buoys within close on the port hand, and the red buoys close on the starboard hand, up to Garry point. Keep within one cable of that point, and of the shore eastwai-d, nearly as far as English's cannery, which is al)out *.) cables eastward of Garry point. Then bring that cannery to bear N.N.W. astern, and with it on that bearing cross over to the Westham island bank, keeping about one cable off up to the beacon on that island. Thence alter course to the eastward and pass between the two small si)ar buoys at the entrance of Woodward's slough. Steer in mid-channel, rather on the northern side of the river, through Woodward's slough and (iraves- end reach ; thence southward of Annacis island, keeping towards iScf chart, No. 1.022, Chaj). v.] FUASBR RIVER.— NKW WKSTMINSTER. 1 i < the south shore through the first bentl, then in mid-channel to New Westminster. Tides. — It is hif?h water at full antl change at Fraser river entrance at oh. (hn., si)rings rise 7 to 10 feet. The time of high water is about 2 to 3 liours hxter at New Westminster tlmn at the entrance of tiie river, and tin- rise and fall da(! to ti(hvl causes at springs, is (i feet, anil at Langley scarcely perceptil)le. There are nearly always two tides in the lunar day. The state of the weather in Georgia strait, the rains, and the amount of water in the river, alfect the tides Vessels will stddon swing to the flood stream until October, the change of ti(h^ at other times Iteing shewn by a decrease in strength of the ebb or down stream. In September (he ebl) has been observed to run 3 or I knots, and the flood ih knots, the water being (piitt^ frt'sh. Ice. — On 1st January 1891 the ice in the river off New Westminster was 4 inches thick. New Westminster stands on the north or right bank of Fraser river, just above the jnnctiim of North Fork, and 1.") miles in a general north-easterly dii-ection from the entrance proper. It occupies a commanding and well chosen position, Ijeing within a i easy distance of the entrance, and having great facilities for wharfage along its water frontage, a good depth of water, and excellent anchorage. Vessels moor abreast New Westminster in mid-channel, where the depth is ()^ to 7 fathoms, sand and mud bottom. The river bank is somewhat precipitous in places, and the country at the back is like all the lower parts of Fraser river (unices, indeeil, in the immediate neighbourhood of the entrance, where it is SAvampy grass land, subject to inundation during the freshets of summer), densely wooded ; a considerable clearing, however, of the timber has taken place in the vicinity of the town, which assumes a prominent and thriving aspect. It has several public buildings of note, including a very good hos])ital, and large canneries. The site of the former military establishment, one mile above New Westminster, is a most picturesque spot, commanding an uninter- rupted view of the Queen's reach, a broad, dee]), and magnificent Sff chart. Xo. I,!t22. SO 11948 M 178 GEORGIA STIIAIT. [Chap. V. sheet of water. From it to port Mooly (iit the head of Rnrranl inlet, and a rftatioii of the Canadian Pacific Itailwiiy) tiie distance in 4 miles in a nortli ilircction ; si'Vcral <,'0(»il roadn exist between the two places, and a l)rancli railway line has been constructed between port ^[ooily and New Westininstia- ; also a \va^'i,'on road to the outer (Vancouver) harbour of the inh^t. Livtu-pooi, on the south Hitle of the river opposite New Westminster, is connected with Seattle by railway. The poi)ulatiou of New Westminster in 1894 was about 8.000. Supplies of all descriptions are readily obtained, and salmon in abundance in the season. There are not many facilities for repairs to shipping and machinery. Coal can be obtained. About 500 tons are usually kept in stock, but any (quantity can be procured at a short notice. Vessels can coal from barges, or they can go alongside a wharf, which extends into a depth of 20 feet at low water. Pitt river. — At ."> miles eastward of New Westminster is the entrance to Pitt river, which trends in a general direction from N.N. 10. to N.K. for 28 miles, terminating in two remai-kable lakes enclosed between almost i)erpenilicular monntains, and navigable (for those that can pass tie railway bridge) to the iiead for vessels of 11 fi'et draught, the dei)tli in i)laces being far too great for anchorage. A large tract of low grass land lies on both sides of the entrance of the river, which, however, is generally overflowed, or partially so, during (5 weeks of summcT. Derby or New Langley.— The landing place at fort Langley, is 12 miles above New Westminster in an easterly direction, on the south or opposite side of the river ; the channel between is deep, and there are no impediments to navigation. This spot was first selected as the cai)ital, and as a town site it is unobjectionable, having a considerable tract of good cleared land in its neighbourhood, and all the requirements of a commercial port ; the depth of water here is 10 fathoms. Vessels may proceed with ease 7 miles beyond Langley ; the navigation then becomes somewhat intricate, and the current too rapid for any vessels but steamers of light draught and great power. North Fork is another entrance to the Fraser, navigable for vessels of light draught at high water, and is generally used by the natives ])roceeding to or from Rurrard inlet. Its junction with the Sec chart, No. 1,'J22. Chap, v.] PHASER RIVER.— HURRA RD INLET. ]V,) main stroam occurs iinmcdialely below New WoHtminstcr, from whonco it rniiH in a wc-ttci-lj- diri'dion, anil enters Georgia strait tliroui^h Sturi,'('on baiiVc, about .") miles nortliward of the Sajid heads ; a largo low i)ai'tially woodeil island (Sea island) lies in its entrance, anil si)lits the channel into two arms. In many i)arts of North Fork the water is deep, in holes, and the bottom irrccrular ; It can only be considered a boat cliannel. BURRARD INLET is the first fjreat harbour which indents the shoreo of IJritish Columbia north of the 19th parallel. Its entrance is between Grey jjoint on the south and Atkinson point on the north.* Grey j)oint, a loiiij wooded promontory terminatinf; in a rounded bluflf, is very eonspicuous from the soutliward, while Jiowen island, which lies at the entrance of Ilowe sound, and may also be said to form the northern boundary of the inlet, is very renuirkabh; ; its hif,'h, round, and almost bare summit, mount (iardner, roachinj,' an elevation of 2,471) feet, is easily recognised from any jjoint of view. Passage island, small, but j)rominent, lies in the eastern passage of Howe sound, midway l^etween Bowen island and Atkinson point, and is an excellent mark from the southward. Burrard inlet differs from most of the great sounds of this coast in being comjjaratively easy of access to steam-vessels of any si/e or class, and in the convenient depth t)f water for anchorage which may be fonnd in almost every part of it ; its close proximity to Fraser river, with the great facilities for consliiicting roads between the two places, and its having become the terminus of the Pacific and Canadian Railway, likwise add considerably to its importance. It is divided into three distinct harbours, viz., English bay or the outer anchorage ; Vancouver (fomnally called Coal harbour), cibove the First narrows ; and port Moody at the head of the eastern arm of the inlet. LIGHT. — From a square wooden lighthouse situated on Atkinson point is exhibited, at an elevation of 0') feet abovt^ high water, a revolving white light, attaining its greatest brilliancy ereri/ minutf, visible in clear weather 14 miles. The light is obscured when bearing eastward of N. 72'^ K. Fogr sig^nal. — A horn gives a blast of six seconds duration at intervals of .58 seconds. * &'c Admiralty plan : — Burrard inlet. ""Vo. !>22 ; scale, m = 2'U inches. RO 11948 M2 im r.EORfJIA STRAIT, IJUUUARI) INLliT. [Chai). V. Pilots. — A Hinjill pilot VfHHi'l iirtiiiilly ctuIhcs btftwotui point Grey and i)oiiit AtlciiiHoii, or will be at aiK'lior iii'ur Sitaniwh hank, or in Skunk cove half a mile eastward of Atkinson point li^'lithonsu. ENGLISH BAY is more lliaii :» miles in breadth at the entrance between (irey and Atkinson points, whieli bear from each other N.N.W. anil S.S.K., and has the same breadth for nearly its entire len^'tli or almost -1 miles. The head of Kw^Wnh l)ay on tln^ south shore ttinninates in a shoal arm named False creek ; on the north shore it leads by First narrows to I'urrard inlet. The yreat volume of water which dischar^'es itself from tin- upper parts of the inlet ihrongh these narrows has scoui'ed out a deep (diannid on ihv north side of the outer anchorafjfe. Spanish bank contracts tln^ entrance in some measure, it is composed of hard saml, and is dry at low Avater ; its t^d^'e is steep-to, and when covered its existence W(»nld not l)e suspected ; there is no rii)plc on it unless with stronj,' westerly winds, and then only near low water. A i>ile beacon with red ball stands on the extreme northern edge of the bank, this beacon dries at low water; and a red can buoy, surmounted by a staff and ca^i', is moored in JO fathoms, west' rd of the bank. Anchorage. — There is '^i)(>d anchorage in English bay in (5 fathoms, still mud bottom, at about half a mile from the south shore of the bay (oil" Indian lints), \\ith wt'st extreme of Prospect point bearing N. by E. J, E., and lighthouse on Atkinson point W. by N. ij N. ; this anchorage is well protected from wi'sterly winds by Spanish bank ; anchorage may also be had further to the eastward, if desired. If intending to pass above the narrows, attend to the tides, and a stranger will do well to anchor in English bay before proceeding further u^). Tides. — In English bay it is high water, full and change, at 7h. Om. ; springs rise 13 feet, neaps 11 feet. During the winter months from September to March there is what is locally called a "short run out" during the day, and a "long run out "at night. The tide is consequently high during the day, and low at night. The duration of the short run out is from i} to 4 hours, that of the long 7 to '.) hours. This is entirely reversed during the summer months, wheii it is hi'jfh water during the night, and low water Sec chart, No. 922. riia]). v.] :N(;Msn bay— firmt natuiowh. ISI a • luring,' tlic diiy. Tlu' liilt-H iirc very comiiliciitcil, iinil caiMiot lu' (leiu'iidt'il on, except ;it lull iind chiin,t,'«' of tlie mnou. FIRST NARROWS <•!■ Lioirs iiMr mv on th.> north side of the inlet, where tlie lii'fiidtli of tlieeliiinnel Is not more limn 1.', ciihleh with ii d(*i)th of from 10 to ]'2 fiithonirt ; to ii wtriin<,'er the entnuuHi in not t'iiriily made out until close in. Directions. — A llal composeil of shinyle and houldei- stones, coverinj,' with the early Hood, extends from one to ;> ca])les olV tho north HJiore, so tliat Prospect point must he kept pretty close aboard, rather loss than one eahle. In a sailin^'-Hhip a knowledj^'e of the locality is necessary, as well as a connnanding ln-eeze, and tlu' nan-ows should never be attempted with the full stren<,Mh of the stream ; and you must be (juick and careful with the helm. Even for a steam-vessel the strength of the streams in First narrows necessitates unusual care. The narrow part of the chuimel is half a mile 'n length, when it gradually oi)ens out from 2 cables to half a mile, which is tin* breadth abreast Brockton point. Wlu-n past the narrowest part, the south shore should be kept aboard within 2 Ciibles until abn-ast Brockton point. A spar l)Uoy, painted red, i.i moored in .'i fathoms, at the edge of the bank on the s(,uth sidc^ of First narrows, with I'lockton point lighthouse beai'ing E. | S., distant 1 cables. Three beacons mark the edge of the I)ank, which ilries at low water, on the northern side of the narrows. Two white masts, each iU) feet high, stand on 13i ockton point, the eastern one snrmounteil by a triangle ; the rear mast bearing S. 72' E., distant 105 feet, from the front mast. Two white masts, each 20 feet high and surmounted by a tlrum, stand on the shore southward of I'arthia shoal. The beacons on Brockton point in line, bearing S. 72° E., lead in a least dejith of .');}^ fathoms soutliward of Parthia shoal, from a position with (me of the beactms (20 feet high, with drum, as above mentioned) abeam or bearing about S. 18° W. until the other beacon u-' abeam. When the tidal streams are running with any strength, there are eddies in First narrows, and it is neces-viry to exercise caution, especially with heavy draught vessels, in passnig through. A stranger should not enter the narrows unacquainted Avith the state of the tide. See chart, No. 922. t i'ii 1 1 182 (iEOROIA STRAIT, IJURRARI3 INLET. [Chap. V. I Parthia shoal lios iu juitl-cliinmol noi-th-wostwanl o!; IJrockton point, its extent, within the r)-i"atiu>ms line, is '^h cables long, east and west, and 1^ cables broad, and the least water is iH fathoms neiir the east end. A second bank oi: 25 feet, with 7 fathoms between, lies one cal)le north-eastward of Parthia shoal. The passage for large vessels is southward of the shoals with (shoul I the beacons be down) the chimney of the sugar relinery iu line with Brockton point E. by S. ] S. ; passing Brockton point at a distance of 200 yards. Burnaby shoal, about 2 cables iu extent, with 9 feet on it, lies 3|- cables E. ] N. from Brockton [)oint ; the kelp, however, is frequently not seen until close to. It is marked on its north-eastern edge by a red spar buoj', moored with eastern extreme of Brockton point West, distant i5 cables. Tides. — The Htri'ugth of the; tide in the narrowest part of the First narrows is from 4 to 8 knots. It is high water, full and change, at 7h. ; rise I'i feet. VANCOUVER HARBOUR, the anchorage inside First narrows, is a bight formed by the land falling back from Brockton point ; midway between Vancouver town and Hastings mill, Whiting bank extends IJ cables from the shore, with 2|- fathoms on its outer edge.* LIGHT. — On Brockton point a Jixed white and red light is exhibited on a mast, at an elevation of 51 feet above high water. The red sector is shown between S. 83° W. and N. 07" W. (30°). Fo§r Sigrnal. — A bell is struck once every 25 seconds. Vancouvei', a rapidly increasing town, is situated on the eastern Bide of Vancouver harbour ; it is the terminus of the Canadian Pacitic Railway, and trains leave daily for Montreal. It is in telegraphic communication Avith Vancouver island and Montreal. There are excellent facilities for beaching vessels. The depths alongside the Cau.idian Pacific Railway wharf are 24 to 2(5 feet at low water. The pier, half a cable eastward of Buckland point, has a depth alongside it at low water of 24 feet. See Admiraltv plan : — Vancouver harbour, No. 922 ; scale, m = 4'0 inches. Chap, v.] BUURAUD INLET.— VANCOUVER HARBOUR. i8:i At Ha8tinf,'s saw-mill tliere are several piers with a depth of 25 feet alongside the largest . The popnlatioi. in 1801, numbered i;?,r)8r). Communications. — There is regular steam eommnnication between Vancouver town and .Japan, China, Sandwieh islands, New Zealand, Australia, San Francisco, and ports in Puget sound in connection with the C!anadian Pacific Railway ; and mails for Australia, China, and Japan are conveyed by this routi'. The steamers from China coal at Vancouver from a hulk ; thev call at Esquimau. There is railway communication with New Westminster. Supplies. — Wood and coal are retidily procured. Water is obtained from the princijjal wharves. The city is supplied witli water from Capilano creek on the northern shore ; the main pi])e crosses First narrows from the eastern mouth of the cri'ck. Tides. — From observations, obtained at the Canadian Paciiic railway v.harf, in April, May, and June, it was II.W.F. & C. at 7 hours; on ti'is day the rise was Jl feel. The greatest range however, \iz., IIJ feet, was observed from 2 to 4 days after full anil change of tho moon. The neap rise, usually occurring from '.) to 11 days after full and change, was 11 feet, and range 7 feet. At point Atkinson high and low water are about three-quarters of an hour earlier, and at port Moody a quarter of an hour later than at Vancouver. The streams, both Hood and ebb, in First and Second narrows turn at high and low water by the shore. The above observations shew a large diurnal inequality, which affects the high waters from a few inches to 4^ feet, and the low waters a few inches to 9^ feet. Two tides of unequal range usually occur in the 24 hours as follows : — Higher high water, hightir low water, lower high water, lower low water. The greatest range follows the moon's maximum declination. The tide has the peculiarity of rising to nearly the sauH' level at the liiglur high waters whether it be at springs or neaps, where;is tlie level of the low waters varies in the usual manner. In summer the higher tides occur at night, and in winter during the day. Moodyville. — At Moody ville, on the north shore, there is a steam saw-mill, also a gridiron 180 feet long and 40 feet wide, capable at spring tides of taking a vessel drawing 12 feet ; alongside See ohiurt, No, 922. ■'I 184 flEOUUTA HTRAIT, BURRARD INLET. [Chap. V. it is ii siiiiill wiurf. Steam I'oi'ry huiils ply bjtwuuu this pliice cind the several other settlements in Burranl inlet. Hastingrs, a small villa,i,fe situated on the south side of the inlet is 3 miles eastward from Vancouver, and is connected with New Westminster by a road 1) miles lon^'. It is much frequented during the summer months. Anchorage. — The best anchoi-age iu Vancouver harbour is in the south-east corner iu from 10 to 12 fathoms, mud, with the north extreme of the piers at Hastinsjfs mill bearing E. by N., and the landing stage at Vancouver town (i long floating stage) bearing South. This position is out of the influence of the strong tidal streams. Coal is obtained from Nanaimo and neighbouring ports, and the amount kept in stock is uncertain. TugT- — A powerful steam tug is available for iowiug vessels between Juan de Fuca strait and Burrard inlet. Second narrows are similar to the First ; a l)(ink of the same description, but more extensive, is caused by the deposit brought down from the high mountains by the numerous streams which flow into the inlet on the north side. This bank is dry at low water, and the breadth of the deep channel, at the narrowest part and for half a mile on either side of it, varies from 1^ to 2 cables, with a depth of from 10 to 20 fathoms. The channel, however, is straight, and the tidal streams which run from 15 to 7 knots set fairlv through it. The only directions necessary are to keep the south shore close aboard, and steer from point to i)oint without going far into the bights which indent the coast on either side of the narrowest part. The great strength of the streams cease when half a mile from the narrowest part of either narrows. A submarini' telegraph cable ci'osses Second narrows in the narrowest part, marked by three posts placed on the mud flat ; and the outer of these being on the southern edge of the flat is a good guide for the deep water channel. '^ORT MOODY.— The entrance to this snug harbour is 1 jniles eastward from Second narrows, at the head of the eastern arm of the inlet. It is 3 miles in length, and varies in breadth from one- third to half a mile, except at its entrance, where it is only 2 cables .Sir chart, No. 922. Chiip. v.] PORT MOODY. — NORTH ARM. 185 across : there aro no known (lany S., in from 5 to G fathoms. Abreast the turning point, and on the nortii shore, a bank dries off for nearly 2 cables at low water. NORTH ARM, i> miles eastward of Second narrows, branclu-s in a general northerly direction for 11 miles, it is entirely different in its character from other portions of the inlet. The dei)lh varies from .jO to 110 fathoms, and it is enclosed on both sides by ragged mountains rising from 2,000 to r),Ot)0 feet almost pei-pi-n- dicularly, and down the steep sides of which the melting snow in summer forces its way in j'oaming cascades, rendering the surface water in the inlet lielow nearly fresh. There is scarcely sufficient level lanil in this arm to pitch a tent, nor is there any anchorage except in Bedwell bay, a narrow creek 2 miles within the entrance, on the eastern ■'■Iiore, where 7 to '.> fathoms are foxind near its head. North arm is ji early one mile wide at the entrance, biat one mile within, it is contracted to a little over 2 cables, when it shortly opens out again, and maintains an average breadth of two-thirds of a mile as far as Croker island. There is a settlement on North arm named Richmontl and there are salmon canneries there. Tupper rock, in the approach to liedwell bay, is of small extent with deep water around, and having 10 feet over it at low water. The rock lies 15 cables N.E. :{ N. from Jug island, and is very dangerous to vessels entering Beilweli bay. Croker island is one mile from the head of the arm, and on both sides of it there are deep l)ut narrow channels ; that to the eastward is the wider. The head terminates in a delta of swampy rushes, throiigh which some rapid streams hnd their way into the inlet from a deep and narrow gorge in a N.N.W. direction. .S"(' chart, No. 'J22. 18fi GEORGIA STRAIT. [Chap. V. SOUTHERN SHORE OF GEORGIA STRAIT. GABRIOLA REEFS, a dangerous cluster of rocks, covering II space of nearly I J, miles, some of which cover at half flood, and others havlnjjf only a few feet water over them, lie 2 miles olf the oasti^rn point of Gahriola island. There is a passage inside the reefs, but it is not recommended. Nanoose or Notch hill just open of Ik^rry point (the north-east point of Gabriola island), liearing W. h S., leads one mile northward of them.* Thrasher rock, lying about 2 cables seaward from the northern end of the Gabriola reefs, is a detached rock which dries 1^ feet in the kelp which marks the neighbourhood. There is a depth 11 fathoms within one cable of the rock on its seaward side, and betweeii it and the Gabriola reefs there appeared to be a depth of about 5 fathoms over a rocky bottom. Berry point bearing W. ^ S. (well open of Flattop point), leads about one mile northward of Gabriola reefs and Thi'asher rock. The entrance points of Portier pass just touching on a S.S.E. | E. bearing, leads more than 1^ miles eastward of the reefs. Buoy. — A black can buoy, surmiunted by a spindle and cage, is moored in 11^ fathoms, one cable N.E. from Thrasher rock. Caution. — Westward of Flattop island the shore of Gabriola is bohl until near Berry point and Entrance island, when it should not be approached withni a long half mile ; foul ground extends for some distance eastward from the point of the island. ENTRANCE ISLAND lies half a mile N.N.E., from Berry point, it is rocky, 'M feet high, formed of sandstone, bare of trees, but has some vegetation on it. Thosi' j)assing up the strait bound for Nanaimo should rf»und tliis island ; there is a deep passage between it and Berry point named Forwood channel, a little more than 2 cables in breadth, which steam-vessels or small craft may use ; but the south anil west sides of Entrance island must be avoided, as reefs and broken ground extend 2 cables off them. LIGHT. — From a square, white, lighthouse situated on Entrance island, is exhibited, at 05 feet above high water, a fi.ved white light, • Ser Admiralty ohart :— Strait of Georgia, Sheet 1, No. 57!) ; uoale, w = 0'6 of an inoh. Chap, v.] GABRIOLA RKEF!^.— PAIilWAY CHANNEL. 1S7 with />v/ soctor betweiMi Wont ami N. 8IJ'^ W,, over Cabiiohi rtnds. Obseuri'd by laud when bearing' northward of N. SIJ" W. The Vv^ht shoukl be seen in clear weather from a diritance of 14 miles. Fog" Sig'nal. — A steam horn i/ives blasts of 8 seconds with sileiit intervals of 4.") seconds. Position.— Lat 4!f 12' 45 N., long. 12:\ 48 .j(>" W. FAIRWAY CHANNEL, l)etweeu the shore of (iabriola and Lighthouse island, is the most direct for vessels entering from the southward or eastward.* LightllOUSe island is a smooth-topped grassy sandstone island, ii cables in extent north and south, about 39 feet high, 15 miles W. by S. ^ S. from Entrance island. A ledge of rocks, 4 cables long in a north and south direction, lies to the eastward of Light- house island ; with the north end 2^ cables E.N.E. from the south point of this island, and the south end 4^ cables S.E. by E. from the same point ; the least depth on this ledge is 7 feet on its northern edge, and 21 feet on its southern. The ledge is generally covered with streaming kelp, and has a channel of 7 fathoms between it and the island. The southern end of the reef is markcil by a red can buoy in i) fathoms, with the south end of the island N.W. by W. I W., distant ."i cables. Lighthouse island is locally named Snake island. Directions. — Having entered Georgia strait, between East point of Saturna and Patos island, a W.N.W. course for 38 miles will lead nearly 1} miles outside Gabriola reefs, and abreast Entrance island, the latter bearing S.W. distant 5 miles. When proceeding through Fairway channel, if northward of mid-channel, keep a look- out for the kelp on Lighthouse island ledgi- ; when Lighthouse islanil bears N.W. steer S. | W., which leads to the entrance of Nanaimo harbour, ilistant a little over 2 miles. Strangers should be careful not to mistake Northumberland channel for it, which lies in a S.S.E. direction from Lighthouse island, between the high cliffy west coast of Gabriola island and Sharp point, a remarkable narrow projection on the main, and off which, at the distance of half a cable, is a rock which uncovers. * iSi-r Admiralty plan: — Nanaimo harbour and Departure bay, No. 2,612; scale, m := 4 iuohes. i t, ! ,jj " 1 ll ! ji i ■ i !P 188 GEORGIA HTRAIT, SOUTHEKN SHORE. [Chap. V. Hiiviuf,' i)asse(l between Lij^'htliousc and Oabriola islands, there in a good working,' space of Vj miles in breadth, between Gabriola on the east, and Newcastle and Protection islands on the west, but the water is too dee}) for anchorage. The shores of the latter islands should nc»t be aiJ])roachetl within a quarter of a mile, as shoal rocky ledges extend off them. Having bi'ought Gallows point (the southern extreme of Protection sland) to bear S.W. town will come in view. W., the A vessel may anchor if necessary with the high-water mark of Gallows point bearing "W.N.W., distant a (juarter of a mile, which will be in the Fairway of the entrance, but it is difficult for a sailing vessel to pick up a berth hero v/ith a strong breeze, as the space for anchorage is confined. NANAIMO HARBOUR (on Vancouver island) is formed by Protection island (lying at a little over half a mile off shore) to the eastward, and Newcastle island to the northward ; this latter island approaching the shore of Vancouver to within a distance of 1^ cables, and forming a narrow strait afll'ording communication with Departure bay to the northward.* The entrance to the harbour lies between Gallows point on the north side and a bank of mud on the south side. A rocky ledge extends for li cables on all sides of the point, and in summer is marked by kelp ; a large boulder stands on the ledge off the point, distant V)i) yards, and covers before high water. The south side of the channel is the northeni edge of the great shallow bay to the southward, which although it does not , marking the shoal water off Nanaimo flats. On the south end of Middle bank is No. 0, red with staff' and cage ; and a red spar buoy near the edge of the bank. On the north end of the bank, a black beacon, from which a whitf light is exhibited. * Sir. Admiralty plan of Nanaimo harbour. No. 673 ; scale, w» =i 12 inchcB; also Xanaiino harbour and Departure bay, No. 2,512 ; scale, m = 4 inches. Chap, v.] NANAIMO HARBOUR. 180 A beacon of masonry, 14 feet high, Hurmounted by a staff and hittice-Avork ball, the whole pjiinted black and showing 10 feet above water, has been erected on Heacon rock, Nanaimo, in lieu of the black buoy previously marking that rock. A beacon, consisting of )} piles painteil black, disi)lays a ral light at a height of 10 feet above high water, and is situated on the south side of the channel, about 2 cables S.S.E. from (xallows point. The black buoy previously moored in this jjosition has been withdrawn. Southward of Satellite reef and marking the north side of North chann(d is No. 4 buoy, red with staff and cage. Carpenter's rock, off the town, is marked by a black buoy witliout distingui.'^hing mark ; and a black buoy. No. 9, with "staff and triangle, is moored on the edge of the flat extending off Mill stream. Then' are also two mooring buoys off the coal Avharves at Grave point. The positions and shapes of the l)uoys are liable to l)e changed, and are therefore not to be depended on. The town of Nanaimo contains about 4,()()0 inhabitants, but it is being c(mtinually a(Med to by immigration. Extensive colliery works are in full operation, and the country around possesses exceptional natural facilities. Steamers call here from San Francisco, Portland, and Alaska, as well as from Victoria and coast i)orts, and there is communication with Victoria by rail. Nanaimo is connected with Victoria and New Westminster by electric telegraph. The wharf accommodation is excellent. Provision is made for sick seamen, who are either admitted to the Nanaimo hospital, or transferred to the marine hospital at Victoria. A steam ferry runs between Nanaimo and Departure bay. Middle bank, 2 cables long in a northerly direction, and half a cable broad, lies in the centre of the harbour, and has a depth of only ii feet on it in places. Beacon rock lies nearly one cable off shore abreast the northern pier. NiCOl rock has been removed by dredging. A tide gauge station, on piles, stands near the site of the rock. St-e chart. No. 57;!. 190 GEORGIA STRAIT, SOUTHERN SHOdE. [ChiVp. V Directions. — Tlie jail, on the western side of Newcastle island passage, is conspicuous. Two narrow winding,' channels, the North and South, lead into the Usual anchorage, which is close oH: the town, and westward of the Mlddl(M)ank ; both are buoyed in the vicinity of the latter, but no strit'\<':«'r should enter either channel without a pilot. North channel lies l)etween the Middle bank (to the soutinvard) and the south e ^ :e of the Satellite reef. South channel, though of sulficient depth for large vessels, has a somewhat sharp turn at its western end, but is very convenient for sailing-vessels leaving with a northerly wind, wlien th(n' would ho obliged to warp out of the North channel. Anchor close off the town in .') fathoms, midway between the north edge of Middle bank and Heacon rock. Vessels can go alongside the wharves. A small creek on the north side of Douglas coal wharf afl'ords excellent facilities for beaching a vessel, and is frequently resorted to for that pur])Ose. Supplier. — Heef anil mutton may be procured, and the country around al)ounds in wild fowl and deer. Ship stores can be obtained : but material necessary for refitting a vessel must be jn-ocured frtun Victoria,. The facilities for repairing a ship's hull and machinery are limited, but small work connected with the latter might be executed at the machine shops. Coal. — The mines of Nanaimo produce a fair bituminous coal, which answers well for steaming purposes. It is lighter by about 10 per cent, than Welsh coal, and its consmnption proportionately i-apid. Two or more steamers can be coaled at the same time ; the depth alongside the wharf at low wati'r being from If) to 25 feet. The quantity of coal usually maintained on hand is 5,0(X) tons Vessels can coal from lighters alongside at all times. Newcastle island also produces large quantities, and the mines there are being rather extensively worked. Tides. — It is high water, full and change, at Nanaimo harbour about f) p.m., and the range of tide is sometimes 1-1 feet, which is as much as is met with anywhere on the coast, rendering this a most ■? Srr chart, No. B73. Chap, v.] NANAIMO HAUIJOUU.— DKrAUTURK HAY. 191 eligible spot for the construction of docks, for which it offerH peciiliiir facilities. This gre.vt ran^'e of tide only occurs ut midnif^ht ilurinj,' winter, and in the daytime in summer. The superior and inferior tidfs exist hero as they do at Esiiuimalt and anionif tiie Ilaro archipt'laj,'*). DEPARTURE BAY.— From Nanaimo tin- Ion:,' narrow channel or arm between Newcastle island and the main leads in a N.W. direction to Departure bay. It is l.\ miles in lenj^'th, and one cable in breadth, with 12 feet at low water, except on a rock wliirh has only 2 feet water on it lying in the centre, 2^ cables N.W. by W. h W. from Reef point ; this rock is marked by a black buoy. Vessels of 1') or 1(5 feet draught may enter Departure bay l)y this channel at suitable times of tide, ])Ut large vessels must enirr noi-lliward of Newcastle island.* Tho northern entrance to Departure bay is between Boulder point, the steep clifty north point of Newcastle island, and Jesse island, a small island to tin; northward of it, anil lies 2 miles S.W. h W. from Lighthouse island ; it is 15 cables wide and there is a depth of 20 fathoms in it. Very little less than this depth will be found in any part of the Ijay, and it is not nearly so sheltered as Nanaimo harbour. When coming from tlie northward, care must l)e taken to avoid the reef which extends more than 1^ cables from Hoi-swell bluff, the north entrance point of the bay. Fresh Av'ater can be obtained. Goal. — The coal wharves in the south corner of the bay are, New Vancouver Company's pier with 37 and )V^ feet alongside the cross heads, and East Wellington wharf, with 27 feet. The three wharves on the north-west side, inside Double island, have depths of 27, 2U and 24 feet respectively. Three warping buoys have been placed for the convenience of vessels about to coal. Black rocks generally show four lieads, but at low water appear as one rock. There is a small rock with G feet over it ;")(> yards west of the westernmost Black rock, with 4 fathoms close-to. Buoys. — The buoys in the bay and approaches are. No. 8, red with staff and ball, marking the reef off Newcastle island on the south-east side of the bay ; three mooring buoys oft' the wharves • Sfi- Ad;airalty plan of Nanaimo harbour and Departure bay, Xo. 2,512 ; scale 711 Ks 4 inches. 1U2 (IhJOHCJIA .STRAIT, SOrTHKUN SMOUK. [riiiii.. V. inside Donblo island ; rvd can, at edge of the shoal on the north shore inside IJIiick rocks ; blade can, eastward of the reef ofT Jesse island ; red can, in (i fathoms oil" Ilorswell blnll' reef; black spar, on south siile of West rocks ; and a red Hpur buoy at the eastern edge of Clarke rock. Horswell bluff. — An isolated bonlder, of very small (extent, with 2 i'eet over it at extreme low water, lies on the ')-fatlioms line three-quarters of a cable oil' shore, with the blutl' N. by W., and the western point of Jesse island S.W. by S. Directions. — Wlien intending to load with coals bring the sleep north i)oint of Newcastle island to l)ear N. by K., and anchor in not less than IH fathoms oil' the coal mini', 2 cables from the shore (or make fast to the mooring buoy until ready to haul alongside the wharf) ; the bank runs u]) steej) within the above dei)th, and shoals from 12 to 2 fathoms. T^nless anchored well out, a vessel is liable, with N.W. winds, to tail on the bank ; and ships are not recommended to lii' here after they have got tlieir cargo in. A stranger should take a pilot for the coaling station in Departure bay, either from outside oi- in Nanaimo harbour. The passage from the northern wharves between Double island and Black rocks is safe. That northward of and between Black rocks and the red buoy is also used, but care must be taken to keep a little northward after passing the easternmost rock in order to avoid the 2 fathoms off their east end. Middle channel, over one mile wide, lies between Lighthouse and Five Finger islands ; it has a depth of (SO fathoms. Passing through the centre of it, a S.S.E. course leads for Nanaimo harbour, between Protection island and Sharj) pftint. Five Fing-er island is a bare rugged islet 48 feet high, of about the same dimensions as T-.ighthouse island, lint of trap formation, instead of sanilstone ; the five hummocks on it resemble knuckles more than fingers. West rocks.— Four cables S.S.W. from Five Finger islanil are three smaller islets of similar character and formation, with some rocks about them, which uncover. These islets and rocks occupy a space of half a mile in a W.N.W. and E.S.E. direction ; there is a ])assage 3 cables wide between them and Five linger island witli Sir chart. \o. 2,") 12. ^•Iliip. v.] DKI'AUTI'RK HA Y.— NOnTHFMnKFU< ANh CHANNKL. VX', irro^'iilar rocky l)ott«iiii, ilu' tlfpilis xaryiiij,' rmm '.' in Xt I'litlioiiipt : it iH not ivconnnt'inUMl, Imt, if iiHcd, Fivi* Kinv'*'!' iHliiiitl t^hoiil*! !)♦• kept iihoanl. Inner channel, 1 cahlcs in Itreadth, lit-s between the above islets and the 8h(»re of (lie main, untl In'iiif; more dii-cct, is convenient for steamers or Hmail craft bound to or from the northward; tlw mid- ehaunel course throutrh it is X.W. Almost in the centre of (his channel are the Clarke r<»cks, which dry 4 feet at low Wiiter. A red buoy is moored on these rocks. NORTHUMBERLAND CHANNEL, before menliom-d as lyiiif,' between Sharp point and the western shore (»f (iabrioia island, runs in a S.K. direction for I,', miles, and (hen Kas( for *i miles, when it enters the D«»dd and False narrows, the former on the south side of Mud^'e island, the latter on the n(»rth : a rock which uncovers extends half a cable off the extreme of Sharp point. False narrows are shoal with no ship passa^'e, but there is excelN'nt anchorage in IVrcy i»ay at their western entrance, in from 7 (o 10 fathoms, where vessels may lie to wait the tiy boats, small vessels, aniug through with the first of the ebb : <»r at two hours before low water if with the last of it. !■;: ,Vr chart. So. «71». SO na<.«< X It) I CHAPTKIf VI. GEORGIA STRAIT, FROM NANAIMO HARBOUR AND BURRARD INLET, TO GAPE MUDGE AND BUTE INLET. Vartatiox. ".H Kiist, in IS'.»S. GEORGIA STRAIT, as ulrcMdy (il)si'i'v.'(l. cninint'nrcs :it tlu- iKirtlicni end of llic Hiiin iirciiiiii'liivu. iimi rxtfiuls in ii LrciuTal W.N.W. (Iin'cti(ni to fi\]u' Mii(I},m', ;i (lisiiiiict' n\' I lit miles. 'rinTf arc many liiii'l>oni's, botli on tlic Vjincoiiv t-r anil inntintMital sliucfs ; and Ht'veral iHlandn. sonic of considcrahlc si/c. form otlicr channels, all of which arc naviirablc.'"' The iivcra^'c width of the main strait westward of Xanuimo isaltoni 1< miles, tliniinishinj,' at its narrowest part, bctwecti Las(|neti and the ISallinac islands, to .") miles. Th«' fifcneral licpth of watci- is i,'rcat, fre(|iiently over ;2(>0 fathoms. 'I'lie tides arc not stroma, and hctween Nanaimoand Mudfjc tluMv arc few dan^'ers in l!ic wa\ of ships nasi- uatiiif; the strait. The smaller channels (»n the continental shore arc Malasjjina strait and Sabine channel, the former Ivinj,' between the c:e and cajjc La/.o : that is to say, the Hood enterinjif by .Tiian dc Fuca strait meets that entci-inf,' by the north end of Vancouver island, within '20 miles of the former cape, tjenerally much nearer, but varying according to the ))hases of the ^Ser Adniiriilty cliaii : — Strait of (it'orK'iii. slieet I, No. .")"'.» ; si-rili'. m ~ n-" t,( ;iii iucU : also sheet 'J. No. .")Sii ; s(';i]e, vi = ii',"! of im iiicli. I,-. flmp. vr.] NANOOSK II \Kitoru. I'.t:. nuiiiii itiul tilt' stutf ))(' the winds; aiul at tlu- |)oiiit <>{' iiitMiiii^' a miles W.S.W. The entrance between Maud*' island anil Pdiinden point is ihree- <|uarters of a mile wide, and the width of the harbour varies between .'i cables and over one mile. ' liCaving Nanaimo harbour, and passing out by either channel (Milunden point, but when inside the lattei-. a * ik'u Adnuniltv plan ol Nandose harbour mi Shet-t ot IMaiis. No. ."iSO ; scale, in ^ ;} inohef. SO ll\t4t< N2 IDG liKOFldlA STIIAIT. SOUTHKaX SHOHK. [(Mlill). VI. rtjvnd-baiik dr'u's for :i cdiislilt'nilili' distiivcc otV :il low wutor, iind the south siKtre sh«»tild not he iijjproaclicd within a (juarti-r ol" a mile. EntrailC3 rock, 2 feet abovo liilinid(>n ])oint, cxtciidiiif,' off a Mat on the south side, almost into (hf middle of the harboui-, and coiiti-aetin^' the width of tlie ))assa^»' lo ;i cables ; witliin this, the harbour opens out to nearly one mile in width, lei'minalinj^ at 1} miles in a siioal mud Mat, whieii dries al low water more than halt' a mile, and where (|uantities of oysters art* found. A sunken rock, with a de|)th of l.i ftet on it at low water, is situated in the entrance to Nanoose har])oin', in a ])osilion with (lie centre (»f Entrance rock bearinir S. .', W., distant '1\ caliles. 'I'here is a dei)tli of 4 fat iioms close east ward of liie alxtve rock i and a rock with a de))th of .") fathoms (»n it, situated l-]. I»y N. .'i N.. distant '1 cables, fi-om the ]'.) feet rock. North rock, on tlie north shore, lies nearly '1 cables from (he shore, and has a de])th of ;') feet on the outer' ]iart. Directions. — When midway b(!lween ^Maude 'sland and Ulunden l)oint, (he fair course in is W.S.W. When tlufeast point (d" Soulhcy Island is shut in i)y the north entrance jxiint, Xonii rock will be jtassed, and the north short; should be kept rather aboaid. Knti-ance rock should in no case be jjassed nearer than one cable, and if working.; in, beware of (he N al the head on the north side. i p. 111. : springs raii,tro Jofet't. The COAST ^'<>i- i; iniifs westward (if Naiioosf is triiif,'tMl with iimiifnms sinaii islands and rfd's. the );' :t'r j^tMU'rally marked l>v kelp. The ftiitcrmDsi of (liein, WinchelHo.i and Veo ishmds, extend between one and '1 miles from the land. Small ves-ifls may find goo I shelter in Sciiooner eove at 1.', miles wehiwaidof :Ii, north point of XanMisi' harlioiir. 'IMiere is a roei< awash nearly in the i;entre of the entr.iuce, but nearer to tho north point. Grey rock, bare. 12 feet al)ove liigh water, ane safely passed to the northward, at the distance of half a mile. ■re a one the BALLINAO ISLANDS, two in numl)er, are larger than the groups just describe 1, ajid lie '2\ miles oil" shore. They are about ::'')(l f(!et high ; the northernmost has only two or three trees on it, and its summit terminates in a sharji, bare nippU- : the sonthernmf»st is woodi'd. They have the api»earanei' of being one islainl seen from all [toints, being on'.'.' separated by a narrow passage which at the eastern entranee i,* less than one eable wide, l)ut opens out within, and fornix a sheltered cove with ..neiiorage for small vessels in S fathoms, elnse to its southern samly i>eaeh ; on ihe west siile thi> (diannel is almost elo.Ned, and there is no passage into it. The islands are steep and bold on all sides, and are consjiieuous after passing westward of Xanaiimt. Ballinao channel, southward of the islands of the same name, is a safe, clear passage, 1| miles in width at its luirrowest part (abreast Gerald island). .Sr i-liiirl. No. "mII. i:i <;i;or,(;iA strait, southkrn shoiik. [Chap. vt. Tk Hl.'iiniiTV, (■(ia,-t*'Vri, or vi-sselrt with a fair wind, Miilliiiac channt'l i8 ivcftintiM'inlt'd. Tiarj,'»' sail in;,'- vessels with a foul wiiiTi -.vry deep : a eon- siderahle stream flows ini'» the hay af its w«>stern enfr.mce. Mlstalien island, low, vooded, an mi'.es westward froiii Xanaimo, and .'> nules eastward from the eastern entrance of Baynen s, is iii miles S. bv W. from the river entrance. •Sr cliart. No. TiSn, ClKip. \ I.] ('()|"r.\.M liKKI'". -It.WNKS SOIM). IW I? (^iiitlitiim l);iy is a sli;:lit iiidtMilatidii of tlic coast, iiiiiiit'iliatt'ly wi'stwani of the i'i\cr, w her*' vitv fair aiidiorairc will Im- fouiul in S or III fallioiiis, at tlu't'i.'-([Uatters of a mile from tlio slioic, with the fast point of lloriiity island licarinj^' N. .', W. : tlu' holdiny 'th. i'roiii N.W. winds it is in a ^M'cat nicasiiro slicltiTtMl by till' islands, iiiit with thosr from S,K. a consiiU'raldc sea will i,Tt iij), tlioiiLih tlu'i'f would lie plenty of room, and with j^Miod ;,'roinid taekic no danirer of driftiiiu-. 'I'he n)oiiniain raniics wesiwai'd of Naiiaimo are of consideral)!!' lieitrlii, and very strikinj^- in their general features and varied ont- liiies; most eonspieiioiis anioiiLrst them, and midway bet ween Harelay sound and ihr east coast, rises mouni Arrowsmith to a heijiht of .">,',i7l! feet, its remai'kal'le summit terminating^ in. thr''<' sharp well- deiined peaks, rarely tree from snow. DENMAN and HORNBY ISLANDS lie immdiately otv the loasi, i) I miles westward from Nanaimn : the former is '.• miles long in a \V. N.W. ilireiiion. or jiaralKI with the coast, and has an averaj,'e width of "J n;:!"s, iis hiyliesl elfsailou iieiny about iHO feet, and wooded. Hornby island is about I miles across in e\ery direction ; over its we.steni side rises rather aliitipily mount (ieollrey. a i'emarkable tlat- top hill. ],(t7(') fei I high, sloping gradually down on the east side and terminating in a low. Itare, i:rassy point : on the eastern shh' is Trilxine bay, allordiiiL; yood amliorage. On both these islands there is a considerable ((uanliiy of good land, particularly on the latter. Denman island is separated from the mainland by a gooil i)assage ailed IJaynt's sound, atid llornliy island from Dennum by Lambert 'hanncl. There is more tide fi'lt in the channel than in the sound ; in the foi-mer its rate is sometimes "J kmUs, the (IikmI coming from the soMth-eastwanl. The prevailing windsare north-westei'ly, therefore, ••r sailing-vi'ssels from the southward, the main strait east of Jlornhy island is to be preferred. l/ighthoiises are in coinsr oj erection at the soiith-eitst end of henmau island, from which h-ading lights will be shown to clear the shoal ground (di Maple point. BAYNES SOUND, sej)arating Dt'nmaii island from the inain- laml, is a narro<\ sheet of water IS miles long, with an aventge I'avigaide width of i>\er half a mih'. and with a genei-a' depth of .S/v chart. \i.. :.S(I. c ' f. « •2iX) (iKOKKiA STRAIT, SOUTHKHN SIIOKK, [Chai ». VI. IriMii 2(» to •,'() fatlioiiiH, so that, W iit'ceHsarv, an aticlinr niav Ih^ • Intppt'd ill any jiart ; there are. iKiwevcr. two very fair anrhora^es, Fanny bay on the «outli or main siile. and Henry l>ay on tite north or ishmd Hide. At 14 miles from the eastern entrance <■? tlie sound is port AM<,'Usta. into wliieh th)\vs Courtcnay rivt-r, oi.e of th«' htrj^t-st streams in Vancouver island, and in this immediu'e neif,dil)ourliood is a hirge extent of {^ood clear grass land. The exit into (iectrgia strait by the nortli-west |»ar' of the s»»iind, bt'twceii llie north end of l)«>nman island and ca|»t' Lazo. is nearly I wo miles in wiilth, but a remarkable bridge or bar of sand, scattered with large st<»nes, (xt ends the whole way across, itnd at low water there is as little as S feet on it : during summer it is thickly covered Mitli kelji, wijicli never altogether disH])l)ears. The bar is very narrow, and is always smooth : towards high water, vessels of 19 feel draught, by carefully paying attention to the leading marks and ; nay safely pass either into or out of the f?trait Ity this channel. I Yellow island is small and bare, 8<> feet high, ami geiu'rally (»f a yellow colour. It lies close off the south-east point of Denman island, is conspicuous, may be seen fur several miles, and is a good object to steer for coming from the eastward, as it forms the eastern entrance jioint of the sound. Between Yellow island and Denman island there is no passage, the sjiace Iteiiig oi-cupied by a stony ridge. LIGHT. — A squat c' white building with a red lantern stands on Yellow island, from which is exhibiteil at 12<> feet above high water a !/rtni/) fhixliiiKj ir/iifr light. It shows three flashes, eclipses of !.'» seconds intervening, followed by an edijise of l)<> .seconds. Visible s !award in all directions, except where obscm'ed by trees and high land of Denman and Hornby islands. Buoys and beacons.— A beacon, showing J»; feet above high water, stands in a dejKli of ]}> feet at the northern extreme of Maple point bank ; this beacon consists of three piles, siirmounteil by two circular white discs, <»i>e showing to seawartl, the other towards the channel alireast the beacoti. Tin- red nun buoy li.l). No. 1 marking the western extreme of Heef Hlutl" reef, Denman island, is moored in a depth of (5 fithoms. and a red mm buoy R.IJ. Xo.**i is moored in S fathoms off the west spit of IJeef KhilV. .V l>eacon, exactly similar Si ohiirt. No. o«o. VI. Cliap. VI,] HAYNFiS SOUND. DIRKC'l'lONS. •iol ill t'onii iiml colour to tin* M.iplt' point bearon lnMon- (li'is* ril>t'»l, ih fivctt'd in a dfjjtli ol" l*-i feet iit the edije (»f the shonl ground oM Hane Hut. A red ispar buoy is moored in a depth of "21 feet at the extreme of the reef off Vilhige point. Denmaii island. A l)eaeon. showing l(> feet above hij,'h water, stands in a th'pth of IS feet, at the extremity of Union spit, I), miles north-westward of Rase Hat : this beacon consists of a sin'''''ting of a single pile suniiounted by a black ball of open lattic" work, is in '21 fathoms on the I'astern edge of (inissy |)oint bank. On the south-western edge of (ioose si)it stands a pyrjimidal beacon, surmounted by a triangle, and 152 feet liigh ; the base is cidoured black anil the top yellow. The ]»assage across Kelp bar, iietweeii White spit and White blulV, is marked by two red beacons in '.\\ fathoms, bearing from each other N. by K. }, K. and S. by W. i W. distant 1,»;])roached within that distance. If desired, there is good anchorage outside, in ('» fathoms, with Yellow island in line with Norris reef bearing N.E. .j X., and Maple point W.S.W. distant three-quarters of a mile. Directions. — Entering Bay""' sound by the south-eastern channel, some care is necessary to avoid a shoal sand-spit extending otl Maple point on the south side, marked by a beacon. To clear Srr charts. Ni.s. 580, 5s:.. J so*? ('V'OR(;iA STRAIT, SOIttHHKX .SHORK. [Clliip. M. M}i|>h> l);iiik Yt'llow ishiml li'/Iit slioiild imt lie l»ri>u;jlil In hear imrtli- WHftl of K. l>y N. .', X. : and wlicn passiiiir llonilty islaml, tlif lij^lit Itcarin^' S.W. leads clear (if the ivid's soiitliwai'd and nartlwaid of dial island. ImTuediaUdy opposite on Deimiau island, N'.W. from Majjle point, is Ki^ef bluH", a hi,!,di (day (dilf, wiili a Itare .i,'rassy slope : olV tliisfdilV, for ::* cables, extend some rocky patches i Kelp reef i. marked hy a red spur buoy, which narrows t lie width of the eiiiraiice Ix-iween iIkiii anfl Mai)le point spil lo somethinir over '.\ cables. Wli-ii eiuei-iiiir, il is nronimendcd to steer in nearly mid-cli mnel, or with the low extn'ine of Ktnd" l)ltitt' in line with the low pan of Ship point of Fanny bay liearin^' W. .', N., until Maple [loinl bears South, or mounl Tretneton is in line with, or just shut in by lioyle poini, the s(Uith- east extreme of Denman isliiid bcariiiL! K.X.K.. then steer W.S.W., keeping these marks on astern, which will lead midway between Maple point spit ami the patches ofl' the north shore. .Nfount Tremeton, the summit of ]ias(|Ueti island, is a very remarkable bare, castellated knob, L,!*.')!) feet hi^h. When .Maple point bears H. by S., the tirsl reach of the sound will be well open, and Base flat, a low >;fassy point on the w»'st side of Fanny ])ay, Avill be seen open of Ship point ; then steer n\) mid-channel about W.N.W. Shi]) point, with the land one mile east of it, shows as two bold W(K»ded bluft's, which should not be approaidied within 2 cables. The southern side of the sound between Majile point and Fanny bay for about i miles is low, and shoal water extends for a consider- able distance oti' it : it is recointnended not to stand so far over on this side as altogether to shut in Base flat by the bluti's of Ship point just mentioned. Deep bay. — Maple jioint fnuu the extremity of the trees turns W.S.W. for half a mile, and forms a low sandy si)it : westward of this is Deep l)ay, in which the depth varies from l."> lo :2(> fathoms, irregular bottom, but sandy. It is a small and not very desiralile anchorage, and as the shoal e.xtends oti' the back of the spit for its whole length to the distance of one-third of a mile, the extreme ol it, which is steep-to, cannot be steered for until it bears S.K. : if intending to anchor, the best lierth is in 11 to 1(1 fathoms aboui n, cables East of the spit, and near the centre of the bay. Anchorage in BVJ, fathoms will also be found by shutting oui Yellow island lighthouse iiy the (dumji next to the main l»o(ly (d trees on Maple point. Srr chart. No. 58", chap, vr.] BAYNKS SOUXn, UNION WHAWJ'. 20:^ Fanny bay, «m tht southern sid*- <»f tlu> .s(»mul, 4 luilt's noith- weflt from Maple point, affords a j^'ood though soiut'wiiat liniitpd anchorage. Ii;i8e Hat, the delta oi a considerahh- stream, having its rise in the lieaufort range of mountains, forms its western point ; and Ship point, a bohl wooden bluH", its eastern. Kntering from the eastward, give Ship point, and the coast of th«' peninsula immediately eastwanl of it, a berth of a ({uarter of a mile. Anchor in I'i or 13 fathoms in the middle of the iv.ty, with Ship point distant a short lialf mile and in line with the Kecf bluff, bearing K. I S., which latter will appear as the south-east extreme of Dennum island. The "astern part of the bay dries entirely at low water, and a sandy flat extends a consiilerable distance (»lf around the shores, therefore some caution is necessary in anchoring. Small vessels may staml in to S fathoms, from which depth it shoals very suddenly oti' Hase flat ; a sand-bank dries for more tlian ',) cables at low water. Village point, on Denman island, with a large native settlement on it, is remarkable : it is '2 miles N.W. from Fanny bay, and a sand- spit extends a short distance off it : northward of the sandspit is a good anchorage in K) fathoms, known as Vachie. Care must betaken to avoid the reef, ofl: the sandspit : it is marked by a red spar buoy. Union wharf and anchorag-e on the western side of the sounm;i A sTKArT, s<»i tHkun smoUi;. [('1i;i|). vi. itrc iiiiMloniU'ly lii^^li anil woddcil ; its wrstciii exlifiiic is ;i low Imi Hl«'t^|) «liii»^'li' spit, Willi itric or two trt'cs on it, an fathoms in the centra (d" the hay, with the wcslcni shiiifjlc |ioini hoarin^' N.W., when a i-cniackahh' cluinp of iiccs on Sandy island will Im' just (.pi'ii wcstwai'd of il ; here a vt-ssid will li»; a ijuartcr ol a mill' I'rom the ln*ac*h, wlu'rf a (•onsid<'raltlc native villaL,'f is Iniilt. 'I'lic Indians rosort to this hay in larfj;*- numbers during summer to tish. Sandy island. — From UeaU point a series of san miles West from Heak point) are in line l>earin« S. by W. [. W.f.'^w pajre "iOl ), then steer out bohlly N. by K. }, K.. oronadireet course from one lieacon to the other; two or three easts of ir» feet will lie struck at low water, b\it it will immediately de«4)en to ."», I, and shortly l'> fathoms. The white beaeh may be distiiietly s'/eu at ii or 1 uiiles distant, but when entering,', until it is elearly made out, and the beae<»ns on the bar are visibb' (.svv init,'e "201 ), eape La/o should no! be broujjrht northward uf X.X.VV^, nor the clump (d' trees ttii Sandy island ciistwaril of S.S.K. PORT AUGUSTA, in the north-west corner of liaynes sound. althou<,di appearintr t(t be a lar<,'e sheet (»f water at hiirh tide, has its upper part entirely tilled up by a nuul Mat, which almost dri^•^ at low tides, and is formed l»y Courtenay river, which Hows into it.'' The settlement Comox has a wooden |)ier on the north shore with a depth of IS feet alon^'side the end, and at about one mile oH', is a lluds> a width of less than one mile l)etw(>en the entrance points. For beacon >■■>•'• pa^'e 201 . Directions. — (ioose spir, is steep-t<» at its western end, but shoal water extends :> caWes off its southern face ; and if workinf^ in, the low weHtern extreme nuist not be brou«,'ht southward of West. Steer Srt' plan (if purl Aii. ^''• in We8t, |mH8in^ a quarlrr of a mile from tlit' spit, ami antlioiiii^' in U\ or 1 1 fatlionjH, nun! hotloni. when it ItearH N.K. distant iJ or 4 cal»l«'s. A littlf morr tiian lialf a mile westward from tlie spit the w.iicr sh(»als suddenly from 7 fathoms hi a few feet. Hounding the spit end, whieli n)av lie done very close, a deep fove extends one mile to the eastward, oi- close u|) to White l>luff ; its upper half eilforil valley, through which Hows the I'nntluch, a stream falling into the Coiirte- )iay 2 or '.) miles above the head of ])ort Atigusta. The Beaufort range rises (m the western side of Haynes sound, 7 or S miles from the coast, and stretches 12 miles in ii W.N.W. and E.S.K. direction, varying in elevation from A,')! Id to ,"),1(M) feet : they are very remarkable, presenting 7 or K distinct peaks, whicdi are rarely free from snow. This range, together with mount Washington, form the ejistern boundary of the great central valley and chain of lakes which extend througli the length of Vancouver islaiul from the head of Harclay sound. Set- chart. No. .'580. plmi). VT.] I'OHT Arcil'STA. — I.AMHKTl'r CHANS'KI,. 207 LAMBERT CHANNEL, Ik'I\v<'eak point. This stretch of land issh»dvin<;. with kelp patches and shallow water cxtendiin,' some distance oil', and should be jjfivt'ii a berth of half a mile : imleed, after pa^• 'ng Komas blnfl", a ijrood limit in standing' westwanl is Shingle spii <•■'. Horidjy island in line with the south-east jioint of Denman island bearing S.K. j E. ; it is better not to stand so far westward as to open oni the channel between these two points, iti order to avoid the shoal ground in the neighbourhood of Sandy islami ami the eastern side of Kelp bar ; these marks are very prominent, and answer equally for those bound through Lambert oliannel from the northward. S-,' chart. No. f>SO, I wn . VI. oil' tlio north end of Ilornlty island \n a roniiirk:il)l«» IxMildcr rock, 7 or H IVct lii(.'li, with sniiiUeront'S neurit ; do not ii|>])roiu-h ihenhore in thirt neiphhourhood within a Ion;,' half a mile, at which tliHtatice are duptliH of from 7 t(t 10 fathoms. Tribune bay, on thp Houth-east side f»f Hornby island, afl'ords ;.;ood anchora^'e with all hut easterly or south-easterly winils, to whi-h it is exposed. It is easy to enter or to loave, and con'.eiiienlly situated as a stojtpin^' i)lace for vessels bound either way, beiniLr ;'».') miles west of Naiuiimo, and Id eastward of cape .Mud>.'e and the entnmce of DiHcovery passii,i,'e.'* The eastern t'lid of Hornby islaml terminates in a rather remarkable point (St. .I(din), t,'rassy, and bare of trees. Of!" it. in an K.S.K. direction, are '2 or 11 small low islets. Some reefs on whit h the sea generally breaks extend nearly half a mile outside the islets ; these should be ^iven a wide berth, and it is n<»l recommended to puss nearer than half a mile to the north-east coast of Hornby island. The entrance of Tribune bay is one mile west of St. .iohii point ; iis eastern shores are bold and ditly, its western low and shelving, with shallow water, and reefs extending a considerable distance off them. Nash bank, the outermost of these <'f 'i'liliiniK liiiv ir Ohai), ^'O (APR I.AZO.— CAPK MITOr.K, •200 lii^'li, flat and j,'ni8rty on i(H rtunnnit, hut woocUmI lu'hinil, and falling' ahniptly to the sea in yellow clay dill's. Altli()ii<,'h a bold-lookinj,' headland, shoal water ext«*nds a considerable distance off, and it is recommended not to approach its eastern and south-east sides Jiearer than 2 miles, as only 4.^ fathoms uneven l)ottt)m is t'ound at the distance of 1^ luiletj. Lar^'e boulder stones dry oil for half a mile at low water. OYSTER BAY.— From cape F.azo the coast trends W.N.W., is moderately hi^di, '.nd sliffhtly indented with boulder beaches, which makes boat latidin^ attended with danj,'er unless it is very calm weather. At the distance of 1,') miles is Kuhushan point, the s<»uthern extreme of a large but not very deep indentation named Oyster bay ; it is a very low extreme. The trees, svhicli might in thick weather be taken f(»r the outer part of the point, begin iJOO yardu within it. Shelter j)oint, nearly 4 miles N.W. by W. \ W. from Kuiiushan, is its northern extreme. A reef, which aflfords consideral)le protection from N.W. winds, extends half a mile eastward from Shelter point. The entrance to Discovery passage is 4 miles aorth-wes. ward from Oyster bay. Anohoragre. — There is fair anchorage u 10 or 12 fathoms in this bay for those waiting wind or tide. A good berth is a little nit)re than half a mile from the shore with Mitlenatch island bearing N.E. ^ E., and the highest part of cape Mudge just open of the low extreme of Shelter point bearing N.W. by N. CAPE MUDGE is one of those peculiar headlands so frequently met with on this coast, and resembles Roberts p(»int and cape l.azo, except that the yellow clay clitf which forms its face is more covered with vegetation. The cape is between 200 and iJOO feet high, Hat, and wooded on its summit, falling to the westward as it enters Discovery passage with a low boulder point ; the high land of Valdes island appears behind it from the south-eastward. A boulder beach extends from it eastward, and at 2 miles in this direction the depth is not more than ;» fathoms. The edge of this shoal is fringed with kelp during summer, anil is generally well defined by a tidal line, and sometimes heavy tide rips, which ii is recommended not to stand into. Between cape Mudge and Willow- point the tide rips at flood are dangerous to small craft in blowing S, r chart. \o. .*>Su. SO 1 11948 O 210 (;eor<;ia stiiait, northern shore. [Chap. vi. weather. The western h)w piirt of cape Mud;(e should not be hronj^ht to bear westward of W.N.W. when entering; or leaving' Discovery passage. Cape Miulge is situated in latitude 41)'^ W,^ o5' N., longitude 125^ VV 0" W. Tidal stream. — The first of the flood stream setii strongly to the eastward, over the shoal ground south-eastward of cape Mudge. Sisters islets are two small black rocks 17 feet above high water, S.W. by S. from the west point of Lasqneti, with Stevens passage, a deep- water channel over one mile wide between them and Flat islands. The Sisters should not be approached too close in calm or light winds, as the tide sets straight past them. X Iilack pyramidal beacon, 42 feet high, is erected on the eastern, and largest of the three islets forming the group. Gillies bay, ItH miles N. | W. from St. .John point, and 2 miles north-west from the Mouatt islets, a small group, which lie nearly out* mile from the shore, is easily recognised l)y a remarkable white patch on its northern point, which is seen for many mih'S, and shows as two distinct white spots. An anchor may be dropped at a quarter of a mile from the beach in 12 fathoms, l)ut it is only a stopping place. Caution. — When standing westward towards the Denman island shore Lambert channel should not bo opened out between the soutli- east end of the island and Shingle spit, nor should cape I^a/,o be approached nearer than 2 miles. NORTHERN SHORK OF THE STRAIT OF GEORGIA. HOWE SOUND, immediately adjoining Ourrard inlet (page 171)) on the n<»rth, is an extensive sheet of water, the general depth being very great, while there are but few anchorages. It is almost entirely hemmed in by rttgged and precipitous mountains rising abruptly from the water's edge to elevations of from 4,(>(K) to 6,(K)0 feet ; there is no available land for the settler, and although a river of ccmsider- able size, the Squawmisht, navigable for boatn, flows into its head, it leads by no useful or even practicable route into the interior of (he country.* * Siy Admiralty charts :— Strait of Georpria, sheet 1, No. r)71t ; scale, m = 0-6 of an inch ; al'vo sheet 2, .\o. 680 j scale, m = U."i of an inch. (Jhiip. VJ.] HOWK SOUND, D|}{KCTION>. Jll The entmnce is betwctMi Atkinson point i^sfi' piif^e 1710' ^^'^" nortli point of Burnml inlet, and (towit point, nearly 1"J luiles apart, 'i'lu- sound penetrates the continent in a nort)ierly direction for '20 miles, and although of such considerable width for nearly 12 miles of its length, yet it is choked by some large and numerous smaller islands, between which are several ship passages. Bowen island, the largest and easternmost, lying at the entrance, is remarkable, mount Gardner, rising to 2,47i) feet, being round, smooth, and })artially bare, unmistakably pointing out the entrance from any direction ; the island is 7 miles in length in a northerly direction, and more than '.) miles in width. Queen Charlotte channel, tli'' easternmost passage into Howe sound, is between Howt-n island and Atkinson point ; i'assage island, only iialf a mile long, but very prominent from the southward, stands in the centre of the channel, and on l)oth sides of it is a ileep-waler ))assage ; that to the west. 1 .1 miles in width, is the l»etter. A tiib'- rip is fre(juejitly met with otf Atkinson ])oint caused by the meeting of the ebb streams from the sound and l^urrard inlet. Snugr cove. — At J :| miles northward of Passage island, and on the eastern shore, is White Clifl" point, and ojjposite, on the Howen island coii8t, distant IV miles, is a double-headed cove. Snug cove, llu! southern of these, though narrow, affords excellent anchorage to small craft in 1) fathoms, sheltered from all winels. Deep cove, the northern, is larger, but with a S.K. wind, when anchorage would be most required, a swell would set in. After passing White Cliff point the width of the channel increases to 2\ miles, and '^ miles to the northward is Bowyer island. White rock is a small I)ut remarkable islet 3(5 feet high ; some rocks which cover at high water extenil a quarter of a mile N.N.W. and S.S.E. from it. Centre island lies midway between it and the south point of Anvil island. Directions. — If bound to port Graves, which is the principal anchorage in the sound, pass westwanl of Howyer island betwet'u it and Hood point. From Hood point, Hope jtoint '>ears W. \ S. distant !1 miles, and after rounding it, a North course leads into tiie harlxmr. Srr ohttrt, No. TiTll. SO 11948 (> 2 212 OKORGIA STRAIT, NORTHKRN SHORE. [f'hai). VI. Bound up the sound by Queen Charlotte channel, a N.N.W. course leads in mid-channel ; pass eastward of White rock, Centre island, and Anvil island, through Montagu channel. Anvil island is '.) inlles lon^,, and the summit, Leading peak, 2,7 H\ feet high, is very remarkable, resembling the horn of an anvil pftinteil upwards. From almost all parts of Georgia strait this peak appears as a most prominent object. Anchorage. — The sound carries its depth to the head, and shoals from 100 fathoms suddenly to 2 fathoms ; the latter depth is close to the mud at Jie head of the sound, which is so soft, that supjjosing a vessel to anchor, she would be certain to drag on shorts with any wind up the sound. Anchorage may be ol>tained off a waterfall on the eastern side of the sound in 20 fathoms, about 2 cables from the shore and one mile from the entrance of the Sijuawniisht river, with Watts inner point bearing S.W. by S. Oolling'WOOd channel is the most direct route to port Graves. At the entrance both shores are steep and bold ; the channel takes a northerly direction, and is for -i miles about one mile wide, the general depth varying from 50 to 100 fathoms. A rock which dries 2 feet at very low spring titles lies iSf miles S.S.W. from Hutt island. Worlcombe island is the outermost of the small islands, half a mile long, east and west, and very narrow. Passage rock lies almost mid- way between Worlcombe and Pasley islands, and covers at half-tide, it lies 3^ cables W.N.W. from the eastern point of Worlcombe islanil, and when working in (»r out, do not stand westward, between Worl- combe and Pasley islands, as to shut in the western points of White and Hagged islands behind the low east point of Pasley island. Keats islar.d is 3 miles long, moderately high, with a bare ciiflty isummii near its centre. Barfleur passagre, westward of the central group of small islands, is a saf«' mhip channel. Working in, it is better not to approach nearer than a (luarier of a mile to Popham island, and the two smaller ones north of it. The passages bet" een the small islands are not recommended, A rock, on which the sea breaks at low water, lies 1^ cables North from the north point of Popham island. ikr chart, No, 67». Chnp. VI,] COLLING WOOD CH A NNKL.— PLUMPER COVPJ. 213 Shoal channel, the westernmost entrant to Howe scund, is convenient for those coming from the westward, and h^ads to Plumper cove, t snug anchorage on the north-west side of Keats ishmd.* The south i)oint of Keats island, which forms the eastern point of entrance to the channel, has, lying close off it. Home island, a small but prominent and thickly-wooded island. From a short distance northward from this island a bar of sand and shingle extends ijuite across the channel to the steep cliffs of the mainland ; the dei)th of water on it varies from 7 to IH feet. When entering, keep rather over to the mainland side about 2 cables from it. Observation i)oint in line with the north end of South Shelter island, or just showing to the westward of it, bearing N.N.E. jj K., leads ON <^r the bar in 2^ fathoms ; but vessels drawing more than 8 feet are recommended not to attempt Shoal channel at low water. Two rocks, both drying )\ feet at low water springs, and lying N. by W. I W. and S. by E. ^ E., distant nearly one cable from each other, lie near Steep bluff. ♦From the northern rock the summit of Stony hill, Keats islaml, bears K.N.K., distant l^^*, miles ; centre of Home island S.S.E. ^ E. ; and extremity of wharf at Gibson's landing W. ^ N., distant 2|'o cables. Pending the construction of a beacon, a sm;ill spar buoy has been placed to mark the outer rock, which dries 'A feet, ami is situated 2^ cables eastward of Gibson's landing. A rocky spit extends from the shore under conspicuous cone, from the extreme Shelter ishind summi' bears S.E. ^ S. distant K cables, and the outer end of the pier at O.osons landing S.S.W. ^ W. Plumper cove. — immediately alter cr<.->ing the bar of Shoal channel the water deepens to 20 fathoms, an<5 ; scale m ar 3 inohf*. •1! 2 14 CKOIKirA STltAlT, NORTHp:RN shore. [Chiip. VI. West, iiiid running up the centre of the cove, drop the inner one in (5 fiitlioniH ; there is only room for one large vessel, but several small ones could find shelter. Thornborough channel ia a continuation of iShoal channel, and leads up the western side of the sound, between Ganibier island and the main. It is high water, full and change, in Plumper cove at noon ; springs rise 12 feet. Port Graves, the easternmost of the three bays on the south side of (lainliier island, is the principal iinchorage in Howe sound. It is about .S miles from the entranct', and may be reached with great facility by either of the channels already described ; its entrance will not, however, l)e very apparent to a stranger until closing Hope point.* Hutt island, scarcely half a mile long, but very high and remai-kable, lies close oil" the north-west side of Bo wen island, and is a good guide to the port when entering by t-ither of the western channels : from it Hojje point Ijears N. by W., distant 1.^ miles ; keep the Hope point shore aboard on the starboard hand. Directions. — On the wesurn shore, three-quarters of a mile inside the ciitraiue, a shinglf spit extenils out for a shi»rt distance, which shoidd be given a berth, as shoal water extends half a cal)le oH' it ; when past this spit there is anchorage anywhere in 10 fathoms, but liair a mile or more inside it, in 7 fathoms, is the best bertli. When entri-ing by Shoal channel, and bound for port Graves, after passing IMumper cove steer N.K. until near Hope point, and see the harbour open, in order not to mistake either of the western bays for it. it is higii water, full and change, in port Gnives at noon ; springs risi' 12 feet. The COAST from Gower point trends \V. ^ S. for IS miles to the entrance of Malaspina strait. White islet, a bare rock .')! feet high, lies 1!, miles from the shore, (J miles westward from Gower point, and is I'emarkablo, always showing very white. Rock point, — The point next westward of Gower point is named l?ock point ; a boulder reef extends half a mile from the shore just eastward of the point. Trail bay.— At 1 miles N.W. from White islet is Trail bay. There is a very marked c rop in the land at the head of this bay, across * s'k' plan of Port Graves on Admiralty chart, Xo. oS.". : suale. w — :» iiiuhex. Chiip. VI.] HOWE SOUND.— liASgUKTF ISLAND. 215 whioh, by a portage of half a mile, the natives carry their canoes into Seechelt arm, one of the many arms of Jervis inlet. Anchora^^e may l>e obtained off the vilhvg*' in Trail bay, al)rea8t a bluff in the north-east corner, in about 15 fathoms. The Indians (Seechelt) are under the care of the R.C. mission, and their chapel is a conspicuous object from seaward. Trail islets, lour in number, lie a little more than half a mile off' the western end of this bay, and if necessary small vessels may drop an anchor inside them in 12 or 1)5 fathoms. There is a rock which ilries at low water N.W. from the western Trail island 2 cables off the mainland coast. TEXADA ISLAND is 27 miles in length, with an average wi tit li of 1 miles. Throughout its whole length stretches a ridge of ruggeil trap mountains, wootled generally to the summit ; at the southern end mount Shephertl reaches a height of 2,90(5 feet ; towards the northern end the range decreases in elevati()n, but there is scarcely an acre of land tit for cultivation throughout the island. Its shores are steep and bold on all sides, and the land rises abruptly, except at the north extreme, good limestone is founel at the north end of the island. Qilles bay, the only anchorage, and that merely a stopping place, is on the south-west side. UpwOOd point, the south extreme of Texada island, is rugged and precipitous ; stunted pines grow between the crevices of the bare trap rock ; the land behind is more thickly Wv-xxled. Almost immedi- ately over it rises mount Dick, a very remarkable hump-shaped hill, 1,13G feet high. A rock which covers lies 2 cables off the point. LASQUETI ISLAND is 9 miles long, with an average wiilth of over 2 miles ; mount Tremeton is a singular turret-shaped summit, 1,051) feet high, rising neariy in its centre. On its southern side are several boat coves. Tucker bay, on the north side of Lasqueti, is a very fair anchorage. Entering from the westw.ird, it will 1)8 readily known by a group of small wooded islands which form its eastern aide ; its western point is sloping, somewhat remarkable, and partially bare of trees. The water shoals rather suddenly from J50 to 16 fathoms.* * See plan of Tucker bay on Admiralty chart. No. 579 ; soale, m = :< inches. 216 (Jt;oH(tlA STKAIT, NOKTHKUX SHOUE. [Chap. VI. t The anchor cables ; there is deep water between the rock aud Thormaaby island. An(»tlier rock, which shows only at very low tides, lies near mid-channel, with (lowlland point bearing N. 59° W., distant 1 |V, miles, eastward of the rock the depth is IS fathoms. Welcome point is the rounded point K.N. E. of Merry island ; oft" it a shoal extends for '.\ cables. A spar buoy, painted red, is moored in (i fathoms, with north-west point of Merry island bearing S. 75' W., distant nearly J ,'„ miles. Buccaneer bay, formed by the junction of the two Thormanby islands, on their north-west side, extenoint and the centre of the beach at the head of the bay, ))earing S.S.E. '} E. Secret cove. — At one mile northward of the entrance to liucca- iieer bay is tiie entrance to Secret cove, formed between Turnat,'ain island and the shore of the mainhind. The channel in, between fieorge i)oint (the south-east end of Turnagain islaml) and Entrance island to the eastward, is half a cable wide with depths of from 7 to 11 fathoms in it. Half a cable S.W. by S. from the west end of Entrance islaud is a rocky patch which covers at three-quarters Hood ; it will be cleared Dy keeping Whitt; rock (2 tent high) inside the harbour on its west shore, just open of the north-west points of Entrance island, bearing N.N.E. ^ E. When past Entrance island, anchonige may be taken up as con- venient in 7 to 1) fathoms, midway between that island and Echo island. Rocky patch. — From Secret cove the coast, which trends north- west, is bold-to for 4 miles, at which distance a rocky patch of considerable extent lies one mile S.E. by E. from Francis point, and extends nearly the same distance parallel to the shore. The least water found on this patch was 7 fathoms, but less may probably e.xist. Bargain harbour is a small harbour with depths of .5 and 6 fathoms in it. The entrance lies between the Whitesione islands (lying abont 3 cables south-eivst from Francis point) and the islets oft" the shore to the eastward, the largest of which are Flat (the southern) and Green islets. By keeping in mid-channel the harbour may be safely entered. The head of Bargain harbour communicates with Pender harbour by a narrow passage, which is available for boats at high water. JERVIS INLET is one of the most considerable of those numerous and remarkable arms of the sea which indent the continent of America from the parallel of Juan de Fuca strait as far as lat. 60° N.; it extends by winding reaches in a northerly direction for more than •lO miles, whih* its width rarely exceeds 1^ miles, and in most places is even less. .S^'^ chart. No. T^TiK Cliaji. VI.] MALASPIXA HTRAIT.— PKN'DKH UAHHOUIl 2r.i It is hemiiHMl in on all siiles by inuuntiiinri of tln' most ruf,'f,'e(l iintl stii|)pn(lou8 character, rising' from its almost periH'ntlicular shores to lM'i«,'htH of TMliM) to H.OilO tVet. The hardy pine, which flourishes where no other tree can find soil to sustain life, h(»Ms but a feeble jind uncertain tenure here ; and it is not uncommon t(» sei' whole mountain siiles denuded by the blasts of winter, or the still more certain destruction of the avalanche which accompanies the thaw o( summer. Apunemnon channel, after runninSen plan of Pender harbour on Admintlty uhart. No. 586 ; msalv. m ^'S inches. 220 (iKOJUJIA STHAIT. NORTHERN SHORE. [Chap. VI. Halt' a ciiblt^ unrtli-t^ast of Martin island iH a larm'e rock, awaHli at high water. There iH also a rovk, which dries just after hi>,'h water, on the edge of the rihoal extending one-third of a cable north-west from WilliamH ishind. Skardon iHhuids, two in number, lie 2^ cables eautward from WillianiH island ; pass on either side of them and steer up the harbour, which is ovt'r a (juarter of a mile in width, and the depth will soon decrease to 12 fathf»ms. One mile within the entrance, a peninsula extends southward from the northern shore ; pass between its southern point and Mary islantl. AnchoragTB' — Anchor in Gerrans bay, a quarter of a mile south- ward of the i)eninsula, in r»or7 fathoms; there is also good anchorage in Garden bay, just eastward of the peninsula, and abreast an Indian village, in i) or ',5 fathoms. The latter is the more suitable for a large shij). Pend'.-r harbour extends three-quarters of a mile above Garden bay by a very narrow passage with only 2 fathoms in it, and then opens out with a depth of 7 fathoms. The depth in the middle of the narrow passage leading into Gun- boat bay, the eastern part of the harbour, is only 1^ fathoms. The tidal stream sets strongly through, and at low water the passage is contracted by shelving shores. Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in Per ier harbour at 6h. Om. ; springs rise 12 to 14 feet. The western entrance to Jervls Inlet is between Alexander point, the south extreme of Hardy island, on the east, and Scotch Fir point on the west. The points are not remarkable, but the ojjening is easily made out ; it is nearly 2 miles in width, and takes for a short distance a N.N.W. direction. Scotch Fir point is rocky, and has two small islets lying close westward of it, which, like the point itself, are covered with stunted pines. Hardy island lies close to and is nearly connected with Nelson island ; Blind bay between them is useless, and its entrance choked by small islands. Rocks, with depths of 3 and 4 fathoms, are reported to lie E. by S. distant 1^ and 2\ miles from cape Cockburn about half a mile off shore. Thunder bay, formed on the western side 1 ^ miles above Scotch Fir point, is one of the few places in Jervis inlet where a vessel may Ser chart. No. 579. Chiip. VI.] .IRRVIS IVLKT. 'i'il drop an anchor, and beintr near tlu' entrance in likely to prove con- venient. The bay is about half a mile deej*, with a sandy beach at its head, off which 17 fathoms will be found ; iianiediattdy outside it then' are 30 fathoms, and the lead then drops suddeidy to a fjreat depth. Hotham sound, a wide oi)eninK, trends, N.N. W., terniinatin),' at the distance of 7 miles in a double-headed bay ; the water in every i)art of it is too deep for anchoraf?e. Nelson island, in the middle of the entrance to Jervis inlet, is 10 miles lon^' in a northerly direction, and about 4 or '» miles wide ; its shores are much broken and indented by several l)ays, in none of which, however, can anchoni^'e lie obtained in ci>nsequence of the ^reat depth. The island is mountainous, ranj^inir from r)(IO tn l,r)(MI feet in heij^ht. (Jape Cockburn. its south point, is of while granite, about SO or DO feet hif^h, covered with a few dwarf pines ; a rock lies one cable south from it. Captain island, north of Nelson island, and separated from it l)y a narrow passajfe, is about one mile in extent, rocky, and steep-to. One Tree islet, off the east side of the inlet, 1] miles north-east from Captain island, is small, and has a single tree on its summit, which is very conspicuous ; its height is about 50 feet. A rock awash at low water lies one cable off its east side ; just within it, on the east shore, is a bight where a coasting vessel niay droj) an anchor. Prince of Wales reach. — Dark cove, on the west side of Jervis inlet, within the Sydney islets, is 2 miles North from Captain island, and 12 miles from the entrance. The cove Is only about 2 cables in extent, but affords a snug anchoi-age in 1') fathoms ; a vessel of con- siderable si/e could moor within it. There is a (dear deep passage one cable wide into this cove on both sieles of Sydney islets. Vancouver bay, on the east side of the inlet, li* miles from the entrance, is about half a mile in extent. From its head, which is low, a considerable valley extends to the eastward, but the shores on both sides are craggy and precipitous, and the bay is too deejt to att'oni anchorage, there being tJO fathoms within one cable (»f the bank, which extends a short distance from its head. Princess Royal reach. — Deserted bay, also on the east side of Jervis inlet, at the termination of Princess Royal reach, and about ate chart, No. 57S>. •i')'} (SKOIKilA STIIAIT, NolJTHRIlN SMOllK, [('\v.\\>. VI. 117 miloH from tlu> (Mitmncc, in Hiuiill, and uflonlH an indiflVrent anchoni>,'(' in itn .nwtorn part near the \ww\ in about 1(5 fathoms, t^xportiMl to wewt and H(»uth-W('Htt*rly windH. A valloy extendri from tlio head of tho hay to the north-cant, tlirouf,'h which ti trail runs to th(( liiloot't laltcH on the Frascr river, and in much frccjuented by the nativcH in tlic summer scaHon. Queens reach. — The head of .Ii rvis inh>t terminateH in a patch of h»w Hwanipy lan latlioms within half a cabht of the outer edfjfe of the bank. A remarkable peiak, motmt Victoria, rincH 2 milert north of the water'n edfj[e to a heif^'ht of 7,4r)2 feet, and is a very conspicnoiiH object on approaching the liead of the inh't. At the head of Jervis inlet then* is a valley J)y which the Indiana ifo to ClahooHc (Desolation sound) in two days. Princess Louisa inlet, on the east side of Jervis inlet, ') miles below the lunid, is narrow, and about 4 tniles lonj,' in an K.N.K. direction ; it is connected by a narrow gc)rfj[e to the nuiin inlet, which at low tide becomes almost a waterfall, renderin<,' it impossible for boats to enter (txcept at hif,'h water ; inside, like .Jervis inlet, it is deep, and the mountiiins cm both sides rise to 7,()00 and (S,()(K) feet. Seechelt arm, th*; entrance to which is on the east side of Jervis inlet, one mile north of Agamemnon channel, is an extensive arm of the sea, penetrating the land for 17 miles in a south-easterly direction. On the east side of the arm, at a distance of 7 and 11 miles from .ts entrance, are two smaller branches, Narrows arm and Salmon arm, extending to the north-eastward for upwards of 10 miles. The arm at 3 miles within its entrance contracts in breadth to less than one-third of a mile, and is partially choked up with rocks and small islands, which preventing in a great measure the free ingress and egress of the tide, cause most furious and dangerous rapids, the roar of which may be heard for several miles. These rapids prevent any vessel, or even boat, from entering the arm, except for a short time after high and low water, when the title slackens for a very limited period ; it would, however, be hazardous for any vessel, except a very small one, to attempt to enter at any tinu*, although there is a passage with from 4 to 7 fathoms between the islands and the south or peninsula shore. iSti^ churt, No. 57i<. Cllill*. VI.J .SKKtllKI/r AllM.— IIAIIWOOU ISLAM*. The HhoreH of tlu' arm, except near Uh south part or li«'as of Hiilinoii there. Tides and tidal streams. — li in hi^'h water at full and chancre in .lerviH inlet at (! hours, the rise and fall heini; a))oiii I ( feet ; within the Seechelt arm the lis ■ and fall seldom exceeds <» or 7 feet. Tli»' tidal streams are, except near the «'iitraiice of Seechelt arm, weak and irref,Milar and inliueiued liy winds. HARWOOD ISLAND, off the west eiilrance to Malasi>iiia strait, l\ miles from the continental shore and ahont ii miles north-west from point Marshall, is 2J, miles loiif,' in a northerly direction. U miles wide, from I'lO to "iOO feel hiKh. Hat, and thickly wooded. It is bordered l»y a sandy beach, and at its north jmint is a low triiissy spit. There is deep water between the island and the shore. Re})j'cca islet, lyinj,' midway Ix'tween point Marshall and Ilarwood island, is of small extent, and .'> feet above hi<,'h water. I'.are islet, one mih' W.S.W. from the south end of Ilarwood island, is a bare, yellow, cliffy rock, about 2 cables in extent, and :»l) feet abovi' hijifh water. The COAST.— Westward from .lervis inlet, the north shore of Malasi)ina strait, takes a westerly direction for 11 miles, terminating' at (irief point ; for a considerable distance inland it is low, and bordered by a sjindy beach.* Fnmi Grief point the north or continental shore of Geor},'ia strait, trends W.N.W. for nearly 20 miles almost straifjfht to Sarah point, the south-east entrance point of Desolation sound. Throu<,'hout the whole distance the coast does not rise more than HIM) or (KHI feet, and is but slifjhtly indented. There is a fresh-water stream of con- siderable size 4 miles West of Grief ])oint, communicatinj,', at about ,2 miles from th«' shore, with a lake which extends some -lit miles n<»rthward towards the head of Toba inlet. At one mile further westward a vessel may anchor in line weather for night or tide at a distance of ',\ or 4 cables off shore iiear the coast abreast Harwood island in 12 to 13 fathoms. AnchoraKc must be taken up with caution as flats extend a considerable distance olf shore. When anchoring do not shut in the north shore of Suvary island. .Srr chart, No. 580. !>4 OEOnCJIA STUAIT, XORTHKRV SHORE. [niiap. vr. :; ! I Navijjfiitinff aloiif? this ooiiHt bctwi'on ftricf and Sarah points, a vesucl will avoid danjjfer by kc'epiiif; not nioro than half a mile off shore as fur art Hurtado point, and pa.srtinj,' northward of Harwood and Savary ih>land8. When past Hurtado point, steer more westward, and pass southward or westward of the White, Double, and Powell islets. Sliammon and IiUnd are settlements on the mainland, the former north-east of Harwood island, the latter, at which there is a post office, in lat. 49° 51)' N., long. 124" 49' W. SAVARY ISLAND, nearly (5 miles W.N.W. from Harwood island and one mile from the continental shore, is 4 miles long in a W.S.W, direction, and less than one mile wide. A sandy beach with huge scattered boulders surrounds it, and extends a considerable distance off its north and west sides, which should not be approached nearer tlian half a mile : these boulders extend a greater distance from the south side of the island, which side, therefore, should not ))e closed nearer than three-cjuarters of a mile. The height of the island varies from fSO to 120 feet, and the south side is faced by some remarkable white «'uidy cliffs, very conspicuous from the south- east ; its east (sxtreme is a granite clift', steej)-to. There are several clear grassy patches on the island, but the soil is poor and sandy. A sandy bar or ledge, of one to 2 fathoms water, extends from its west point to Hernando i.sland. A reef extending about 5 cables W.N.W, and E.S.E., with a breadth of 2^ cables, the boulders on which dry at low water, is reported, with the south .*st extreme of Savary island about N. 5°,E., distant '.\ miles. The position is doubtful. All the water inside a lino from Bare island towards the west point of Savary island is said to be foul. Hurtado point, on the main abreast Savary island, is about 2.'')() feet high, bohl and clilTy. There are ;i7 fathonrs water in mid- channel l)etween it and the island. Mystery rook, 2f miles S.E. h E. from tlie east end of Savary island, is a patch which uncovers 4 feet at low water. From the rock shoal patches of from one to !{ fathoms extend towards the east end of Savary islantH). Chap. VI. J SAVARY ISLAND, — HKFINANDO [SF.AXD. •)•)■ Ragged islands, lyins,' clns.' to a-id |)anillt'l with tlu> continental .■'horc, arc a rocky Lrronp of small islamls :*.', miles lonj; ami .'{ cabUis wide ; their south-east pari isahoiit *J,', miles north-west from Hurtado jmint, and somo rocks extend 1 cahles from th«Mr north-west extreme. White islet, one milt S,W. from Ha.Lr^'eil islands, is a very remark- alile, hare, white ",'ranite rock, ahoiit 7() feet high. A rock which uncovers at low water lies one cahle eastward from it. I)oiii)le islet.s, half a mile West from tli<' north-west part of the Ha.<,'f,'cil groiiji, :ii-t' sin;'.ll. and alt<»nt '.*i> feet lii!j:Ii, witii a single tree on each of their summits. Powell islets, one mile north-west from Double islets, are iwo in ni!ml>er, small, ahont '.H* feet high, and covered with a few stunted hushes and trees; the westernmost islet is steep-toon its north and west sides. Sarah point, at "JK mihs W.X.W. of Malaspina strait, may he called til." north-west entrance ]>oint of (Jeorgia strait. It is a ronnde(|, rocky point, sloping gra feet, at a short distance within it. The coast here turns sharjtly round to the eastward into ^[alaspina inlf^t, Sandi ])oint is situated in latitude ")(> ;{' In N„ longitude I24°r>'J W. Mitlenatch island li«'s Itl miles N,\V. from lape I.azo, is half a mile in extent, !i(Mt fi'ct high, hare and ]>eakcd. Hetween it and tin- Vancouver island shore, distant nearly (I mile>, is the fairchainud tf"et high. A ledge composed of sand and huge hoidders extends two- thirds of a mile from its south-east point, and then- is only a depth of 1| fiithoms in the chaniM'l l)etwecn it and Savary island. From the west side some rocks extend olf ujtwards of 2 cahles in many places, and it should not he approached nearer than half a mile in passing. A dangerous rock, which ilries at low spring tid»-s, lies thr»'e- quarters of a calile olf Hidalgo point, ;ind there is no passage between. !«tO Ili^H S>-r ohftrt, Xo. 5««i, mimmmmmm 226 UBORGIA STRAIT, MOllTUt'RN SHORE. [Chap. VI. Stag" bay, <>ii the north Hide of IL^riumdu, udords anchox'sige in J 2 to 1.') fathoms at a diHtauce of about 2 cahK-s' leuij^thsofl' whore, aud irt usi'ful as a stopping place for vessels bound to Bute iiih't or .Desolation sound. Thei'e is a small fresh-water stream in the east part of the bay. Tong'ue point, tlie north-west extreme of Ilernand" 'nd of Staj; bay, is a low sharp sandy point or spi;, covered with a few trees. Vessels should anchor at about thnH'-(iuarters of a mlli! from tliis point, witii tlie east i)ari (»f Twins islands bearinLr N. by W, Baker passagre, 'o tln^ uorthwartl ol Hernando island and leadinf,' from the strait of (rcorfiriii to the entrance of Desolation sound, is alxuit :5 miles lonj,' in a north-easterly direction, and one mile wide in the narrowest part, being bounded on the north side by (fortes and Twins islamls. Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in Hakt-r passage at (ill. Oin. ; springs rise 12 to 14 feet. Twins islands, about U, miles North from Hernando, are two rocky islaufls connected by a sandy beach at low water, covering an exti'Ut 2 mile;- long in a north-westerly direction, and alxnit ou<^ mile l)r(»ad. The northernmost Twin is IIM) feet high, rising to an almost bare summit in the centre ; the southern one is about ;5(l(> feet, and on i)oth of them arc numerous indicatimis of iron and co[)per ores. N«me but small craft shf the passage between Twins and ('(U-tes islands. To avoid the ledge off Kei'f point Uhe south extreme of Cortes island), when entering l>ak»'r passage, bring Tongue point on a N.E. bearing, and steer for it, passing about oik* cable off, then keep midway between Hernando and the Twins. Hlind cret'lc, on the east side of C<»rtes island, ][, miles North from Twins islands, is a basin of about 1 cables in extent, with from 7 to 9 fathoms water; there is, howescr, i)\ the entrance, a rock which covers at a ijuarter flood, rendering the place useless as an anchorage. Three islets, lying half a mile olT the entrance of IJlind creek, are three bari' white rocks about (»(• feel high, almost eonnecteil at low water ; there is a dejith of 27 fathoms ut 2 cables eastward from them. S>-f chart. No. o80. rhu]). VI.] STAfi BAY— SCjUlRREL COVK. 227 LEWIS CHANNEL, oil" tho ontrances to Desolation Honnd Ix'twtM'M Cortos and lifilotida islands, rnns nearly slraiu^'it upwards of 12 luilos N.W., and varies in l)readth from one mile to ',\ eahles ; its shores arc p'nerallv roeky, low in tlie south part, hut rising' gradually to the north-west. Turn point, the south-west entrance point of this ehaiiiiel and tht> ea.st <'.\-treine of Cortes island, is ahout llK) ft>et hi.s^h, rocky, and covered with a few stunleil trees ; and elo-^e in slune northward of the ))oint are two islatuls forming a small l)oat cove. At C miles from the south entrance to Lewis channel, Teakerno arm ])enetratt's Uedonda island 4 miles in an K.N.K. direction, hut is too deep to afford anchoi'ai,'e, except for small craft near its head, and close to the south side of (Mitrance. Tidal Streams. — In Lewis channel the streams are weak and irre^'iilar. seldom exceedint; 2 knots, and are itdluenced ijy the winds. SQUIRREL COVE, on the west side of Lewis channel, 4.^ miles frv)m Turn jmini, is a small land-locked hasin of (ito 7 fathoms water, with room for a vessel of considerahle size to lie at sini,'le anchor. It is entered hy a narrow pa.ssage ahout V.V.^ f<'et wide, with ') fatlioms water, on the west side of the islaml (I'rotection island) in the enlrtmce, which jirotects the cove from tin- southward. The shores are moderately high, and though much hroken, very i»icttires(|Ue and fertile in appearar.ce. To the uorfhward of, and connected at high water with the cove, is a long narrow lagoon, stretching to the north- west nearly across Cortes island.** S(jiiirrel cove can only he entered hy steamers, or sailing-vessels with a fair wimh and the (•|\arl is the hesi guide. Tide. — If is high waitr, full and cliange, in Sipiirnd cove at ')h. dm. ; springs rise 12 fi.'et. Boulder point, *he south-east eiitranc*' point, is low, and nuiy he t'asily known hy a large hoiihler on its west side ; ii rock, which covers, lies nearly one cuhle south from it, hut the point may he roi.in(U'd at a distance of 2 eahles. Northwar (SBORGIA STRAIT, NORTHERN SHORK. [Oliiip. VI, nortlu'Hy directiou for one mile to .lunction point, iiiid then trends to the north-west for 7 miles, the channel ending at Bullock bluff, the north extreme of Cortes inland. At ;{.^ miles from Junction ])oint the d(>ptlis in tlie channel shoal to 27 ami IM) fathoms, and a vessel may anchor in about IS fachoms at .n-e Lucy rock, which lies very close to the south-western shore. Josephine islands, about three-(|nartors of a mile within the entrance of Malas|)ina inlet, with a i)assage on l)oth sides, are two in number and almost joining »'ach (tther ; thenorth-v 'stern referred. .Sfv chart. No. "isii. J. ('hup. VI.] MALA.'^PINA INLET.— LAXCKI.OT AIJM. >).)() ('.ivi-mlisli roi'k, ;i\v;ish, ;mi| iiiarki-d l»y kolp, lii-s If, ciilili's K. Iiy N. from the suiitli east cinl of .Foscpliiin' islands, aiiil i.s a ilaiigiT that niiisl lie avoiilfil when passiiifx i'ast\var(l ul' those ishnids. Gross islet, distant I }, caiih-s iVoui tlie northern shore of t!ie ndet, and 2:1 «^';i''lt'M K.S.K. from Josophhie ishmds, Tics on the noriheni side of the channel ; it is small, not more tlum half a cable in extent. ROSetta rook, the prineij)al daiiv'tir In eiilerin^r i^Ealaspiiia inlet, is awash, and lies nearly one cable l?i. by W. from Cross isli-t. Thorp island lies close to the s mtherii shore of the Inlet "2.1 cables S. by K. ;, E. from .losephiue islanvls, a rock awash lies about half a cable south-eastward from it. Neville islet is very small and lies close to tlu- northern shore nearly half a mile K.S.M. from cross i.slet. Cochrane islands, a gn.np of several small islets extending ;^ cables in a north-west and south-east din'cli(»n, li»' 2 cables from the south shore of the inlet, and southward from Neville islet. These islands should not be approached too closely, and there is a patch with )? fathoms on it about one cable from their western end. Lion rock, surrouiuled by kelp, lies '2 cablis S.F. from Selina point, the south extreme of Gifford peninsula, and 2 cables eastward of Coode peninsula. Trevenon bay, one of the arms of Malasjiina iidet and 2}, miles from its entrance, runs S.K. I»y K. I K. for 1| miles, and at its head is imly sei)arated from Penrose bay by a narrow neck of hind ',\ cables broad, (^tl' the south-east extremity of ('o(»de peidnsula, distant (me cable, is Houndary rock. The entrance to Trevenon bay is half a mile south-east from Scott |)oint ; the avenifire wi fathoms to 4 fathoms at 2 caides from the head. Off the north-west entrance point of the bay lies the small island Alton, aliuut one cable from the sliore. Lancelot arm branches otlat S»dina point sharply N. Ity \V. and extends in that direction for '.\ miles ; its head is only divided from Portajje cove (Desolation sound) by a low neck of land not niurdi more than half a cable across, forming Uill'onl peninsula, rising Sff chart, No. 680. 2;jo • IKOKUIA STIlAiT, NOITHKRN SIIOllK. [C'lmp. VI. abruptly ti\i'r I'orui^'.' cove lo a lu-ij^'lit of 1,001) ici-t, ami liaviiiL' |»ari of the nortlicni «horo «tf Malaspiua inlet for its Ikwc, wIh-it it is imt inort' than half tlu' heij,'lit. The arm luaiiituiurt an uveraj,'*' width of ♦J cal)h's until near its hcail, wlit-rt) it is only 'i.', cahl.'s wiilc. In the southern i>art of liaiR-clot arm the water is very ilt't'p, hut at ahoul thrt't'-(jnar(«'rs of a mih* from Selina point until half a mih' from the head the (h^pths vary from ;50 to 'M fathoms, and then shoul to 17 fathoms and gradually to 11 fathoms. Vessels of motleruto size may anchor in Wootten 'oay, aljout (»ne cable from the head of Lancelot arm in 12 fathoms water. Isabel bay, aliout l:^ miles from Selina point, on the west shore of Lancelot arm, is about '2 cables in ext»'Jit, and all'ords aiiehonifire for eoastera in from 10 to 12 fathoms. Mary and I'olly islands lie in the eiitr.mce. Thors cove, on the eastern shore of Lancelot arm, li, miles North of Ilillingdon point, the east entrance point of the arm, extends in an K.N, K. direction for il cables with from I'i to '» fathoms. A coaster might drop an anchor in (his cove in about 10 fathoms. At »me cable off Sebastian point, the nctrth entrance point of Thors cove, is Thynne island. TheodOSla arm has its entrance at about one mile from the head of Ijiincelot arm, and exten.ds in a N.K. direction for i i miles with a moderate dejjth of water ami a widtli of '.\ cables, l)ut the entrance to it is so very narrow and elutked with rocks, as to n-nder it for all practical j)uri)oses, useless. Grace harbour, on the iKtrtln-rn side of Malaspina inlet, alxiut 2}, miles from Zephine head, has its entrance between Scott and Moss points, which are about one cable apart in an K.N.K. direction. The harbour extt^ids about one mile N. by K. i K., ami is divided at ilu^ head l)y a jutting point into IJarlands and Carberry bays. Two cables within the entrance points a small island lies nearly in (he middle of the channel ; there is a passage on both sides of it, but the western one is only suitable for boats. At 1 cables above the island the harbour for a short distance contracts to half a cable, and then opens to the width of '2\ cables. Directions. — Having entered Malaspina inlet midway between Georginii point and Zephine head, keep over towards Holland point .Srr chart, No. :i8»t. Chap. VI.] MALASPINA INLET.— DESOLATION SOIJX D. 231 until the c'hiiiiiit'l on the Himlhi'ni .side of Josi'ithiiic islitiuls uju'iis out, and tht-n stei^r boldly throiij,di it uitli (NK-hruno isliind.s nearly ahead (the coin's.' will he S.K, hy K. .!, K.). Kc-p the extreme of the land near Zeithino head aixnit midway hetwrcu ( lie south .side ol' .losephiiu- islands and the south shore, if anything' rather lu-an-r the latter, which will lead between Uosetta roekand the roek oil" Tiiorp island ; when \(*ville islet Ix'ars K. '{ X. steer towards it for a short distance, to avoid the 3-fathoms patch off roehrane islands, until tin- north- west Cochrane island Ijears S.S.K,, when alter course to round Scott point distant one cable and steer up the harbour mid-channel, })assing eastward of the small island lyin^' 2 cal)les within the entrance. A shoal patch on which, however, the least water is 4 fathoms, lies 2 cables south-east from Scott i)oint. The best anchorafj^e is in about lO fathoms, I}, cables northward of the small island, abreast Ka kae kae village. Tides. — The tidal streams at the entrance of Malaspina inlet run about 2 knots. It is hi^di water fidl and change at .'ih. Oia. ; si»rin<,'s rise 12 feet, and neai)s '.) feet. Kinghorn island, ofl" the south entrance to Desolation sound, is about 2 miles in circumference, and from KK) to 5(HJ feet high ; it is cliffy and steep-to on the south-west side. Station island, abont 1) cables in extent and 270 feet high, lies 2^ cables N.M.E. from the north point of Kinghorn island ; two small islets lie between. t V, Mink island, nearly midway between Redonda island and the main, is three-cjuarters of a mile long, one-third of a mile wide, aiul 700 feet high. A short distance from its north-east t'i\d are IJroken islands. DESOLATION SOUND, between the south-east shore of the western Redonda island and Miidv island, has too great a depth for anchorage. At half a mile N.E. from Mink islaml is Otter island, only separated from the main l)y a very narrow passage. Deep bay. — Hold head, the western entrance point of Deep l)ay, lies one mile East from the S(»uth point of Otter island ; three small islets lie S.W. by S. from it, the outer one, Grey islet, being distant •4 cables. The entrance to Det)p bay is about 3 cables wide, which .*A.r chart, No. r>«0. i i n 1 h I !' 2H2 (JKOItCFA STIIAIT. NOUTIIKIIN SIIOIIK. fOhiip VI. width it iijaiiitiiiiirt to ils liisul, a ilistiUUM- ol' iicurly ohm mile, with ii genenii northerly direction. The iinchoraye Hpiice is confined, l)ut small vessels can anchor in a cove at its north-west corner in 1<) fathoms. When entering' from the northward pass between Otter and liroln»<.''' width of tlin'('-((uaftt'i'rt of a inilo. and iv>arly dividcH *'aM Ivcdoinla island into two paftn ; it has no anohoraijo. Walsh COVG, hi'twt^en thf (fOi's;t'"^ ishmds and the wcstt-ni shotf of \Vaddinf,'ton chaniud, atl'ofds anch(»iMi,'(' in 12 to I I iathonis in mid-channel, t Toba inlet fxltMids in a j,'tMunMl north-tMsti-rly ilircction foi- ls inih'H ffoin thti northern end of Ilonifray chanm'l. At ilr^ciitraii.c lit' Channel ami l)oiil)lo islands, eacli li>l> feet hie;!!, leaviii:: a channel of over one iniU' in width between them; the inh't is here nearly 2 milos wide, j^radually narrowing; to one mile wide at its head. A fair berth is in about 20 fathoms, oil" the Hats, in the north-west corner of the head of the inlet. Care must be observed when comiiifr to an anehor as the water sh(»als rapidly alongside the Hats, the water beiiij,' of a milky colour .i.Tonls no ^'uido as to its depth. There is a small villam'e (Clalu)ose Indians) on the banks of the eutfteru of the two streams which tlow into the head of the inlet. SUTIL CHANNEL.— This »'xteusivecluuuie|, whieh h-ads fi i the western part of Georgia strait to the entrances of Toba and Unte inlets, is bouudeil on the east side by Cortes, and on the west by Valdes and Kead islands. It is 1') miles lonj,' in a northerly direction, and at its entr-ance is tJ miles wide, (lecreasing to one mile wide in the northern part. There are s«'ver,il yood anchorau'es on both shores, tv,'n of whieh. Drew harbour (on the west) and Carrinirton bay on th(* east shore of the chauuel, are easy of access to all vesstds, and useful as stopping; places. The tidal streams in Sutil channel are weak, s»ddom exceedinv 2 knots; the tlood stream sets to the northward from (teorfria strait ; it is high wr.ter, full and change, at t! hotirs, ami the rise and fall is 12 feet. CORTES ISLAND.— The west side of this island, which forms the eastern boundary of Sutil channel, is for the most part low, anil indented by several bays and creeks, in many of which good auchonige may be found. t '*'<' plan of WalHh cove on Aduiiralty ohurt. Xo. 580 j scale, w = 20 inohex. 'S.W t'.KOnr.W STHAFT, NOUTIIKHN HHOHK. iTliii)). VI. Reel" point, its south cxtiimt', lias 11 IimIj,'!' cMiiijMtscd of siiiitl, bouMcrH t'xtt'inlin^' thrt'e-(|iiiii'lt'rs of a mile Irom it ami which cov«'i' ai thn'f-(|iiartt'rs Hood ; oil' its miirr cdyft' an- (i fathoms. Thf fiiitt-r I'Xtn'iiiity is marked l)y a rt'd can buoy ; tin- outer «'dt,'t' of flic reef is just inside this hiioy. Fmm l?o('f point thi- west coast of Cortes islaml triiitds in a northerly direction for '.\\ miU's. is Hat, from SO to l.'»0 \vrl lii^di, and bordered Ity a sai'dy beach extending,' upwards (d" '2 caliles oil' in some parts ; it ifterwards turns in a westerly direction, becominLT r<»cky and broken, with a few ish'ts a short ilistance oil it in some places. Manson bay is on Cortes island, eastward of Mary island. I'here is a i)ost ollice here. "Whaleton bay, <»ii the west coast (d' Cortes island, has a post ollice and wliarf. In tlu' middle of the entrance is a daiif^'erous rock. GORGE HARBOUR, the entranct> to whi(di is on the west side of Cortes island, 4.J, miles N.N. \V. from Hetd' point, is 2 miles lonjj: in a westerly direction, and oiw mile broad at the widest i)art, all'ordinj,' f,'o feet.' Guide islets, just south of the entrance, art' useful in indicating; it, being two small, bare, yellow-topped islets about :.'(lfeet hif,di, and consi)icuoU8 from the south-east. They are steep-to, ;ind there is a clear passage on tdther side of them into Gorge harbour. Bee islets, within the harbour, 15 cables north-west froni the entrance, are two small bare rocks about oiu- cable apart, and (! feet above high water. Brown island, in the middle of the harbour, about '.\ cabh's N. by E. from the entrance, is nearly one mile in circumference, and thickly timbered. It is about 150 feet high, and the shores are rocky. * See plan of Oorf e harbour on Admiralty chart, No. o8U, scale, m := 3 inohea. rha|.. VI.] L'OllTKS IfiLANl).— noUKK HARHOl'H. 2.% Ring" island, it t about mif cahlf tasi I'min Untwii, ami 70 IVrl hi^'li, is uooilt'il. but iiiucli smaller ; Xfw rock, wliirli loNtTs at a i|iiart«>r Hood, lits m-arly out' cal'lc east Irom it, ami should beavoidfd. Then' ar«' two small islands, Stove and I'ill, eacdi i'lO I'cri liijjli and il oultk'H apart, lyii)^,' flortf to the sliocc in the iioithein part of the harl)our. Neck islet, 20 feet hif.'h, lies oil" a Hiuall covi' in the mmuIi- eu«t corner of the harbour. Anchoragre — The best and most convenient anchoi'ji<,'e in (Jor^'e harboisr is in the w'st part, alxml half a mile from the entrance, in 12 fati.oiuH. There Ih also f,'ood anchora;,"' between l{ in:,' island and the north- east part of the harboin- m from 7 to I) fathoms. Directions. — Entering (JorK'e harbour, which can only be ilone in a steam-vessei after passint,' Guide islets, stt-er boldly up the^'orju'e or entrance, ami t; ke can-, on iieariiii,' its north i»art, l(» pas> Itetweeu Ti,' Tide islet, keep m the northward, and roumlin^' the w»'st side of Brown island at one cabli- distant, ami passim,' the nctrth side id it ami Uinj^ island, anchor midway between the latter and the mirth- east eml of thi' harbour in from 7 to lo fathoi -. If retpiirintr to water, this anch N.W. liy W. [, W. from K»'ef point, is of a round shape, about t» miles in circumference, and frt)in ',10 to J 20 feet high ; its shores are bordered by u sandy beach scatti-red with hugt' i)oulders. Boulder reef, e.vteuding upwards of one mile S.S.K. from its south point, is a ledtre about 2 cal)les wide, which covers at high water. From the north part of Mary islaml Shark sand-spit extemls in a northerly direction to within one cal»le of Cortes island. There are »U. ff 'SM (JKOimiA STRAIT. NfiRTHRRX MFfORR. [C'liap. VI. OiirrinK'ton bay, "n tin- iiorili-\v«'Hr Hiiloof Cortfh, hIhuh '.) imlfH I'roin ('t'litrt' ixlt't, is one inil<' ilccp in un i-iistcrlv direction, iilxuil ;{ ciililrs will*', iinti all'nnlH aiiflHHM^'i' jit '.\ ciihlfs from itn Im'shI in iVom 7 to 1 1 fiiltiMinH, Alon^ itrt north Kiil(> an* sonn- Hinall islets, ami a I'ock which nncovcfH at low water, hut if intemlinir ('» anchor in the l>ay, keep ahoiit one cahic from the south shore, wliicli will clear all (hiUger. At the head of the hiiy is a lar^*' salt-water lagoon. Von Donop creek, the entrance of which is ;'»[, miles from Centre islet, is lon<,' and narrow, |)eneti"iting Cortes isluiid in a Houth- easterly direction for npwanis of '.\ miles. There is ^'ood anchoraue in .*) to li fathoms near its heail, hut the entrance hein^r only iiii yards wide in some places, with 'M, fathoms in one spot, do not use it as a sto]>pinfj phice, for Carriu^ton iwiy in much more couvfuit'iit and easy of accoHH. VALDES ISLAND- From cape Mudfje, the south extreme (»f ValdcH island and the south-wesl entrance ])oint of Sutil channel (sfr l)af,'o ;2(H)), a l)ank extends in a south-easterly direction for nearly 2 miles, and until w«'ll insid«' the channel the cape should not he ap)iroached within that distance. The coast of Valdcs turns sharply round the cape N.N.W., trending in a straight direction for ').j miles, and bordered the wholo distance Ity a beach extending off upwards of one cable in nmny i)arts. The land is Hat, and heavily timbered, but appeal's very fertile. Drew harbour, on the east side of Vaides island, I) miles from cHi)e Mudge, is about one mile deep, .'5 to I cables wide, and rendered perfectly secure and land-locked by Rebecca spit, a narrow strip of land ('» to S feet high and open wooded, whiidi forms its eastern boundary ; its shores are low, and bordered by a sandy beach. ^* The anchorage, in 1> to !.'» fatlu»nis, s;indy bottom, at half a mile from its head, is the best in Sutil channel. Heriot islet, lying north-west of the entrance, is about ^'50 feet high, rocky, of small extent, and separated from Valden by a narrow boat pass. In the bay to the south wanl of it is fair anchorage, and fresh water may be procured ; the depths, however, in the entrance to it are irregular. If intending to anchor in Drew harl)our, round the north i)art of Rebecca spit at a distance of about one cable, proceed up the harbour * Sir plan of Druw hurbuur ua Admiralty ohart, No. 680 ; BOftle, m = S inches. Chap. VI.] VALUKM IfJLANM).— UKAU l«LAXU. iM In mid-chaniifl, smd iinchor iit sibniu half a milt' from itn h»wl in \!t to '.( fiitlioius. 'IMi<> cast sill*' of l{i'))«'C(M Hpit nIioiiM iioI Ix* ap|trourluMl witliin '2 cablts. HyaolnthO bay, "n Valdcs islaml. U milfs iiortli-wt'Ht of I)r«'\v harlMHir, is uf small cxtfiil, with sumc li! tn „'!> fathomH \viit»'r, luit iilVofilH no aii<'hoi';ij,'i' ; a small mck 1 li'ft alnivf hiu'li wati-r lii-s in the iniildlf III III*' ciili-aiicr. Open bay, lialf a milr north fi-om llyacinthf hiiy, and HcpiU-atcd from it l)y a roi-ky point, is half a mile in I'xtt'iit, with from 10 to \'2 fathoms water: but as the hotloni is rcicky. and the hay open to the south-east, a vcsst'l should not anchor there. Breton islets, ll> IVet hi;,'h and extending' npwardri of one mile S.K. from the north pari of Ojten hay,ar(>Htnall,and from the outer one, whicii is wooded, a vi'i'i' extends ',\ eahles, covering at a (|uarter flood. HOSKYN INLET, f..rmed h.tweeii [{.-ad ;.nd Valdes islan.ls, JH 7 miles loiif,' in a northerly direction, with an avera^'e hreatlth of two-thirds of a mih- ; the sliores are hroken and rocky, with soint' small islands off tiie south entrance and alonir the east side, and there is no anehora^'e within il, excejn f(»r small craft. 'I'his inlet contracts at its northern end to a very narrow i)assaj,'e leading' into Drew pass, hut as it is choketl with rocks and tlries at low water, connectinj,' Read and Vahles islands, the only exit is l»y the southern ontnince. Village bay, on the west side of this iidet, jusi within the entrance, is about (me mile dcej) and one-third of a mile wide, with from 12 to 21 fathoms water, but afVonls no irooil amdmraire ; thert* IB a larf,'e village at its head. READ ISLAND, bordering,' the west side uf the north-west par*" of Sutil channel, is '.• miles lonj,' in a northerly direction, and from one to ',\ miles broad ; its southern pari is low, but rises fjfradually to the northward to l.tiOS feet ; the shores are rocky, steep-to. an-'- chart, No. 680. 2;'ow arms near its head ; its shores are roeky anil mueh hrokeii. and (here is no anchorai,'e exeei)t in Bird cove, on the west shore, where small eraft may linil sludter. Frederic point, the north-east point tif entrance to the hay. is liold, and may he approached to within one eahle. Hill island, just ouisiile the entrance to Kvans hay, is of small extent, hut conspicuous: its summit heiny: I'.lo feet hitrh, the coast is rocky. Penn islands, lour in nir.iil)er, n»'ar the middle of Sutil channel, northward of Kvans hay, cover an extent about l\ miles lou!/ and one mile wide ; they are rooky, covered with stunted trees, and their ^'reat est elevation is about '27(1 feet. Do not ventureamonj? them. A rock awash lies SO yards X. '),'>' K. from the north p<»int of the eastern island. Directions. — Knierinf,' Siuil channel from (Jeorfjfia strait, pass half a mile on either side of Miilenatch island : when past Miihtnatch island kc-jf it on a S.K. by K. bearing.', ami steer N.W. by W. till the south i)art of Mary island l)ears X.K. by N. : a vessel will tlu'ti be clear of the I'xuilder reef. 'I'lience, steering; about X.N.W. or X.W. by X., and passinir aliout a i|uarter of a mile westward of Centre islet, steel- up mitl-eliannel, eastward of I'eiin islands. A Vi'ssel may beat thronj^di this channel, luit till past the danjjers in the south part it wonhl not lie prudent to m-ar the south-west sides of (Jorttvs and Mary islands within \}, miles when standing,' «'ast ward ; and when slandin^r towards cape Mudj^'e dn not approach it within 'i miles, or brinij Mitlenatch tn the eastward of K. by H. .\ S., until the cape b"ais S.W'.. when a vessel may stand to within half a mile of the Valdes shore, if intending' to anchoi', Drew harbour and .'<'■< .'harf . N*o. 580. Chap. VI.] SUTIL CHANXKL. -CALM CHAXNKL. 230 Carriiiy:toM hay arc easy of access for any class mI" vcssi-l, ami an* but little out 111" the rt'^^'ular track. CALM CHANNEL, north of Lewis ami Sutil chauiu-ls, leailinvr from liiein to Hiite inlet, is '.• luih'S loii^' in a X.W. hy W. dirt'ciiou, ami ahout one mile hroad ; its sliores rise ahrnptly to a yrent heiyh' and the tidal stri'atns are weak except in the north-west pan. Calm channel is not well adapteil for any vesstds ixi-ept sleamers as there is i,'t'n<-rally hut little wind, and no anchori^re. The channfls known as Hoh- in tix- Wall, and Okishollow. ai'f no; recommendeil, they are encnmben'd l»y roekn and rapids ; small sti'amcrs, however, use ihem to reach the lo^jtrimr eauip a! W'yait. Tides. — It i> liitrh w.ner, full and chan;.'e, in ('aim ehaunid at 7h. <>m. ; spring's rise 11 teet. In .Sur>,'e narrown at t'di., a]>!'inKH rise ]'l feet, and the streams run from 7 to '.t knots. Rendezvous Islands, three in numher. which lie on its W"sl sid»' near the south jiiri, eovir an extent ;> miles lony in a W.N.W. direction, and aiiout half a mile wid«' : the eastern island is il.Vl feet, till' middle iidl) feel, and the western t'ldl feet hi^'h. Drew |iass is a deep p;issa>;e heiweeii the Rendezvous isl; nds and the north part of Ucad island ; and lietween the mi ldt<' ami eastern- moHt Inlands is ii small s|iot with fnun 7 (<» l.'» fathoms water, where a small cntft may anchor. It is hi^'h water, full and change, at the KendexvoUH islands at Th. dm. ; spriu;^ rise I I feet. Raza island, l\in>:at the northern entranci' to Sutil «diannel, is i\ miles litUi^ ikorlii and south, and '.' miles \n ide east and west, und ll,d'id feel hij.'h ; a portion of iis south side, whi(di foriuK the northern side of Calm clianmd, is clifVy. North passau'c, lui the west side of Wa/.a iHlaml, coiumunicat«'H with Hamsay arm wiiiih indents I'le roniineui in a n<>r, heiweeii U'a/a a!id Uedoiida islands, i miles lonu and \]j miles wide, connects I'ryce channel with Sutil chiuni';. Stuart Island, at the norlhein li rminalion of Calm ( h; iind, and in the entrance )»f Mute inlet, is alMnii I miles in extent, of an Uiuhtlatinix Hurface, rising; in s. VI. 5 1 ; if ■ii 111! !;f coawt is ifx^ky ; iiiiil tlu' titlal sliviiiiiH Ht't fltronKly rouml its north ;miit ihcro is a «'lt'ar passage into Miitf iiiii't caHtwartl of it, nearly <»in' mile wide, in wliicli very littli- stream is t'elt. BUTE INLET.— This extensive arm <>\' the sea, which j»eMvtP:\t('s llie eniitinent fur nearly lo miles in ii wiuiliii;? conrs' to the nortli- ward, presents many similar feidiires to .larvis iiilei i |iaj,'e "ilS), the ;,'enpral hrtsiilth \aryiiij,' from one i<> 'i miles, and the siinres on liolh siiles rising' alirnptlx and almost jjreeipitoiisly in nian.\ plaees to stupendous mountains Irom ."».tMl(i to .S,(MM» frtt hiiirh, wliose summits are t,'enerally <'overeirAiili snow all the year rouml. Ai the head are two extensive valleys, oue iK'neti'atiiif,' norih-wesl and the oilier south-east, from whieh llow streams; the one lo the wrsi- ward, is railed liy tli<' natives I!(.malko river. Oll'these rivers some saml-hanks extiMid a short distance, alloniin;.' indiU'ei-eni ;iU(horaj,'es ne.ir llieii- oifter t'llges ; Ittii llie soundings iverywhert' else in the iidet are very deep. The water lor some distaiire Inun the In-ad i-; nearly Iresh, ami •)! a milky white appearance ; in the summer months there is a constaiii outset, vaiying in sireiiglh from one to 2 knots. Tides. In r>iiie inlet it is hiirh water at ("di. dm., and the rise and fall varies fr I',' to I I feet. Arran rapids, ;ti the intranci uf r.uie inlet on the west side, lielweeii Stiiait islaiul and tlu' c(»utineni. are one cable wide in the narrowest part. The streams rush through with gn'iit .Htnngth, 7 to '.• knots (the llooil from ih' westward), ami it is very hazardous for a Vessel to go tlirouirh. Orl'ord bay, on the east side of the inh'i, r.» miles from the entrance, in td' small extent, with il,'» fathoms (d«ti of the hank, which extends from the head. A small veswel may use it a^ a stopping place. Wadding-ton harbour, ii tiie head ..f the inlet, i.eing in fact its lermination, is ah and oil itH cant shore ; th«w hanks are n'lxtrted to I'rcfpientlv ' liaiige, Kxcept in the vicinity of the rivers the hind rises almost precipitouisly to |,(M' t'atlioniH, hut it 'm t'XportiMl to tlu' Houih-wi'Ht,antl ntronj,' wiiidw froPi tiiis tiuurter \\(»u!il make tho Hiichoraye unplrartant, if not uu.siifc.* It Ih higli water, full and cliaM^'c, in \VatliUns,'ton liarhour at tJh. Oin. ; H|)riti{^'w rise IIJ feet. Homalko river enters Waildiufrton harbour tui the 'vent Hide, and is a mreain <»f conHidi^raltie extent, \vindin>jr to the norlh-woHt ihroui^h a lari^'c vitlui.v. At th»* entrance is a bar with i»niy one to 2 feel water over it at low tide, but within, tin- water deepens to one ami ;{ fiithoniH : tin- breadth varies from 50 to 'itMl yards, and llie rivr is navi^'Hl)le for boats and small steamers several miU's. The shores for 2 miles from the entrance ar»' low and swampy, covereil with willows, but further up on the western side the laml rises I or .") feet above hij^h watcr,and apjiears very fertile, ihou^fh heavily tiinber»d ; the oppositi' si«le is steep aiul rocky ; in summer months I he current runs '> knots out of the riv«'r. From the sources of the Homalko river there is u route to the V'old-iniuin^ rej^ions in the fur nctrth of Hritish (.'oliimbia. Direotions. — To navi^'atc Mule inlet but few directions are re»juirH(l,- it 'ntendiiif,' to anchor in Waddinjyton harbour, when m-arinj? it, steer for ith north jart, atuiiorini^r at about three-quarters of a mile oil" the head in I') fath;»uis, anilalxMit IJcaldes from the hi;,'h northern shore; the anclior should be droj)peil immediately I') fathoms are obtained, as th« bottom shoals rapidly. SailiiiH:- vessels enterinf^ or leavinj,' the iidt-t should ket'p close to the (tastern shore, or the eb'o tide may take them throu^'h the Arrun i~ii|iid8 to the westward. OARDERO CHANNEL, communicating' by Nodahs chanmd witli hiscovery puss;i^e and .iolmsione strait, winds in a j,'enenil east and west direction for [[\ miles, with an average width of one mile at the euHtern Jiart, but only half a mile in the western ; its shores are (ftmeruUv rocky and tnotinta'noiis, and the chann*-l is stutlded with numerous small islands, aitd it is not without dan^'ers. the water in most purtH, hovv»>ver, bein^ very deep. Htujirt itsland lies iicroHH the eastern entrance of ("ardero channel, almost blockinii; it, but leaving narrow passages both to the north- * Sif plan of \N iMldiii^i'liiii hiiriinni- mi .Vdiiiirulty ctiart. .No. r>si) ; Miuilf, m = U' inehfiH. SU II MM (iBOROIA STRAIT. [Chftl). VI. 1 ward and southward ; the former, Arrau nipidH (w pafre 240), owing to itH narrownt'Hs and the ntrenffth of the tidt', wliich ruHhes tlirough it at tlio niti^ of from 7 to IJ Itnots, iw not nuvi^nil)]*' t'xci'i)t at ^rwit rink ; tho latter, half a mile wide, is also not recommended, as at ilH northern end the tide runs directly at right angles to a vesBel's course at the rate of from (J to 7 knots. At 21 miles within the entrance Dent inland causi'S further obstruc- tion l»y contracting the chiinnel to ',\ cal)les, which narrow passage is fidl of dangerous r.ii)idrt, overfalls, and whirlixtols, with the proha- l)ility of the t-xistenc*' of sunken rocks; therefor** it cannot he considered Siife or prudent to t-nter or leavt- Cardero channel by its eastern entrance, and it is advised to carefully avoid that part of it which is eastward <»f Ih-nt island. A. rock, which nearly dries, lies a (juarter of a cable off shore, half a mile \V«'st from .lohns point, and southward of Chauue island. A sunken rock lies about a quarter of a mile S.W. from the southern j)rojection of Stcu'p point, west side of Stuart island. There is no passjige northward of the small island lying K. J N., distant 7 eal)les from (Jreene point ; rocks which dry at low water lie between that island and the islands a (piarter of a mile eastward of it. Southward of these rocks there are rapids, but these are stated to be ilaugerouH at any time of tide. Anohoragres. — ('anlero channel has but few j)laces that afford anchonige. Iliekley bay on the north side of Thurlow island, anil nearly opposite (o I'hilipps arm, isa))out W cables in e.xtent with from }(i to 21 fathoms water, and lu'ar its heail (! fathoms. Vct;sels may alfio bring up in l.'i fathoms in Crawford anchorage inside the Erasmus islands on the north shon' of Thurlow island, 1^ miles N.E. by K. from Mayne passage. Mayne passage, '.\}, mih-s eastward of Loughborough iniet, and also on the north side of Thurlow island, aH'onls sludter in f;om 1> to 1') fathotns water. This passage braiuhes off to the southward and westward, pr Hall point, and «'xt('nds about llmM- miles in that direction* shualinj,' ^rradually at its licail towards a stream whieh here enters the inlet tlowin^r from a shiel of water extending: sonu' distance to tlu' northward, and known as the Estero basin. The Hats usually found extending' a eonsider.ible distance from tho shore at the head of most of the numerd in by precipitous mountains rising abruptly fnun the hhore, and haviiifs' creat depth of water with but little anehor;4,'e. At the entrance beiweeji Styles and iirismiind points, at iis junction with Carderoand Chancelhu- channels, the inlet is iibotit S cable^ wide, which is the avennje width to within about one mile from the head, when it opens out to I . j miles. VV«»m the entrance the inb't extends north for tl miles as far as Cosby jMiitit, whieh projects from the west side, its direction for 7 mill's in then N. by W. }, W.. turninK' heMp!ii*sit«Ml by l*»ti pciiiit jiittiitK <»ut in the coMtri'. Tin- latter Imy un'onlH uiichoni^'e in alxtut ;:.'.') fathoniH at ',\ vuXAm fruin the uhore ; in the former the water iH very deep until close in. Sidney bay, "2}, miles South from Cosby point on the went shoro, and t»i niih'S north from Styles point, extends about three-(iuarter« of ii mile to the westward and is about (me cable wide, attording aiichoniKe for coaHters near its head in IG fathoms. Beaver creek, on the w«'Ht shore of Longhboroufjh iidet, I milps within the entnince, extends "2 miles in a south-westerly directi;e nuiy be obtained in 7 fath(»ms ; anchoni^e may also be (tbtained in about J.') fathoms in mid-channel westward of (Joiit islands. Do not pass n«)rthward of Goitt islamls (lyiii^' half a mile within the entmnce), as the> are connecteil to the nortli shore by a flat which dries at low water, (lood water nuiy be oi>tained from a stream at tlie heahe». 'ill 1 i 1 . 1 { ' 1 1 ) 1 24i> CHAPTER VII. FROM GEORGIA STRAIT WESTWARD TO CAPE SOOTT AND THE SOOTT ISLANDS. £1 Variation 24° E. in 1898. DISCOVERY PASSAGE, formed between th*- west side of Valdt'H iHland and the Vancouver coaHt, ih the only nafe navigable outlet from the nortli part of Cfeorgia strait to tlie N.W. Its lengtli in a N.W. and S.K. direction from cape Mudge to Chatham point in 2A^ uiileH, and itH average breadth a little more than one mile ; but at Seymour narrows it contnicts to less than half a mile. Its shores, southward (d' the narrows, are moderately high and apparently fertile, but northward of theui steej), rugged, and mountainous.* For steamers, the navigation of the inner waters between cape Mudge and the I'acific is very simple, the only caution recjuired being to steer mid-channel; if the weather l)e fine, except in the vicinity of the Ninijikish river, Holmeken island, and Seymour narrows, these waters nuiy be navigated as well by night as during the day, the shores being so high on either side as to be easily defined. If in a ssii ling-vessel, unless tlu* wind Ih^ fair and likely to remain so, it would be preferable to anchor for the night, as the wind usually falls after sunset, especially during summer months. Water in generally so plentiful that at every valley or beach a stream will be found. Supplies. — Whenever a vessel stops, the luitives will generally bring alongside deer, grouse, salmon, rock cod, and other fish in moderate (|uantities, selling them at reasonable prices. Blankets, shirts of the most common description, knives, l)«ads, powder, shot, tobacco, ami rod paint are very useful to barter with. To men-of-war they are usually very civil, but crews of coasters and merchant • See Admiralty chart :— Strait of Georgia, sheet 2, No. 5«0 ; -^cale, w = oft of aii inch. i '3 \l »r 21fi CKOlUitA STIIAIT TO CAPK SCOTT. [Cliap. VII. ) * I) vcshpIh HhonM wiitch thctn vi;,'ilantly, as tlicy an- cuimiii!^' ami trcachcrouH (('H|ifcially lU'ar the iiortlicrn parts dl' VamouviT iHlund), having cai)lurt'(l several small i-uaslfis ami iminlcrtMl their crewH. Tides and tidal streams.— S(»ulli wan l nl' ScynK.iir narrows tlic strcaiiiH run i'roni 1 to (i Uiiols at spring's, ami turn at lilLrli and low wat»>r liy tim slntrc. At tlu^ s(»iitlu)rri I'ntranc*-, m-ar cape MmlKf iind between it ami Willow point, heavy rae«'s or tide rijis raije diirinj.,' the Ihtoil, which would he dan;,'eroiis to small vessels in l>lowin;,' weather. It is hif,'h water, lull and change, at r»h. ;»(>m„ and tlie rise aDd fall is al>out IL feel. Northward of Httymour uarniws tim tidal streams are comparatively slack ; they run from 1.^ to 2}, hours after higli ami low water. For tidoH in Seymour narrows, str pape 2i)0. Quathiaski cove.— ('Sipc Mudi^e, with the hank oil' it to the 8outh-(>ast, have been already described (aw page l^d'.l). From it Ihe west side of Valdes island takes a north-westerly direction, and at till) distance of li miles is a small indentation named Quathiaciki cove, bordered by a sandy beach. The cove, which is about li cables lon^r in ii N.W. and S.K. direction, and nowhere half a mile wide, is only Ht for steamt-rs or small craft, and only affords room for one vessel to moor ir» its south-east, and another in its northern part ; tim formtT is recommended, about one or 2 cables S.K. from (Jroiise island, in 10 fathon»s, well sheltereil from all winds. Tho tidal streams sot slightly thntugh the cove, but sweep strongly past tlie entrance.* Tho land betwe<'n cape Miidgo and (Quathiaski cove is about I(K) feet high, flat, and fertile; an Indian village (d" consi?f, Ih upwanlH of L'.\ milcH lonj,' in a N.W. and S.K. direction, and from a (piartrr to two-thir(l(< of a miK' broad. Tlu' HhorcH an* rnf.'R<>d, and there are Hevend rocks and ialandH within it. St«'ep iHland, otV the entnmce, iH about KM) feet hif,'h, 4 caMeH l,' N.W. and S.E., and one cable wide ; the weHtern Hi(h* Ih clilly. (lowlland island in about ono milo lon^,' and a ipjarter of a mile wide, hif,'h and rutfj,'ed, with a hill at both endH, the Honthern one being nearly KH) feet high.* Entrance bank lies nearly aenmn th»* entrance to the harbour, and partly drieH at low water ; it ih d of siinil, beinj? t caltlen in lenjith N.W. ami S.K., and one cabh- broad ; there Ih a clear pasHii^e on l)<)th HideH of it, with not Ichh than 4 fathomu ; itn Houth end, in ;i falh<)mH, is (mo cable North from Vif,Mlant point, the north-wont extreme of flowUand inland. If entering; Oowlland harbour from tho southward rouml Hteep inland at about (me cable, and h* .i* E.N.E. for Vijfilaiit point, which is Hteep-to, and ouf,'ht to be rounded at less than half ;i cable t(» avoid Kntrance bank. Ilaviiifj passcil the point, anchor in .') to 7 fathoms, muddy bottom, at about 2 caltlcH Kant iVom it, or proceed further Houth-east, where more extended anchor.ipe will be fouiul. Tho passage south of Ciowlland island is choked with rocks. If coming from the north-west, when Vigilant point bears East, stoer for it, jiassing it as before directed. Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in Oowlland harbour at .'i.DO p.m. ; springs rise II [(Hit. Tho tidal streams rnn s^viftly between Steejiand Oowlland inlands, and cauticm is necessary when entering the harbour. Maud island. — From (lowlland harbour to Seymour narrows tho coast takes a W.N.W. direction, being steep-to, high, and rugged. Maud island, tho south-east point of tho narrows, is small, about ;W) feet high, and there is a boat i)a8sage betwe»!n it and V^ildes island ; Yellow islet lies 4 cables E.N.E. from it. I ' 'i i > 'Set Plan of Oowlland harbour, on AdmiraUy chart, No. 2,067 ; Moalo, m = W inches. 24R (JKolClilA STKAIT TO CAPK StioTT. [Chap. VII. "Willow point ( VaiK-ouvj-r irtlaiitl), I In- K<»ntli-WfHt |M)iiit nl DiHfovi'ry paHHa^'e, lirs nearly '2 inih'H S. liy \V. from ,M'. It in low, cnv»T«Ml with wilhtw hiiHhcH, and oil' it a saiitlHtoiu' l«'(lp«' HXti'inIs N.K. lor nearly ){ caliU'H. WIhmi passing tlio jMynf ,'e point is the east extreme, is about half a mile deep, and aH'ords ^'ood ant lionise in 14 to 7 fathoms, sand, well out of the tidt*, anil sheltered from all except N.W. winds. There is a broad sandy beach at the head of the bay, through which a stream of water flows. ThiB bay is easy of acc»'BS.* .V j,'oo(| position to anchor is at fr(»ni ',\ to ■'» cables \V. .^ S. from Oranj,'e point, in from 7 to I J fathoms. Warspite rock is a danKenms pinnacle nearly midway between ()ranj,'c and K.ice jKiints on the west shoro of Discovery passa;^'e. The rock, witli I feet on it at low water sprinj; tides, ris«'S above a pati'h about S(l yards in extent within the '(-fathoms lim'. The dan>,'er i;t sicep-io on its north and east sides, and iietween it and the shore are li to a\, is bold and steep-to. The tidal streams run jnist it witli j.!reat ve|(»city, and, during' the flo(»d stream, the ovt-rfalls off it are very (hmgerous for boats. MENZIES BAY has hilhert(» i)een little imjuented, chiefly from the presumed dillicully of entering or leaving the bay whilst the stream is ruiniing strongly in SeymoiM' narrows.! .Srv olinrt, \o. ."iSO. • .Sir jiliui itC Dmioiih Imi.v oh Adiiiirully (;liurt. No. iVts : hchIo, /« =20 iuoiieh. t \r |iiuii of MiMizifs liiiy, Xo. filtS ; sculc, m = 8 luchuH. < ' Chap, VII.] DISCOVKUV l"\SSA(iK. '249 l)»'tVii(l<'r sh(»iil, ill till' cent n- of ilir Itay, Iiuh of lat»' yearn t'Xt«'ntl«'i| (-niiHiilfi'iil)ly, closing ihf siiiitliiTiM-liiitiii*! (i> ships ul' liciivy ilniii^lit. 'riic iiortlicni cliaiiiH-l has a dfpth <>t li, t'athoiiis at low watt-r, aiitl iH thrt'«>-tpiartoi'H of a nihlc widn hrtwt'fu tlu- '.\ fathoms lines, aii;oo><' fiirrciit. A nutrc eoiivi'iiiciil aiichoraf^'f whcti only wiiitinj; for tide is oil' Trout river in .'> to ('» fathoms, wliere there is n<» iiUMnivenieme from the tiilc or swirls, anoiit the middle of the hay, and xivin^ Htephenson point ii >(()od l)erth, keep close alon^ the hi;,'h land, on the north-eust side of the hay, and when ahreast a cimspicuoiis ^iU'vn ravine with u larye t,'ray honldiM*, yoti are in the narrowest part, and should not he more than half a cahle from the shore, whii-li is steep-to ; as soon as this hi^dil is pause,'e of ^the stream from Kace jMiiiit strikeH ii|)on Stephenson point, but without much force, that running' west- wanl Iteing lost almost immediali'ly. There is no swirl to speak of inHide a concave line drawn betwtfcn Kace and Stephenson points. SEYMOUR NARROWS, at lo.", mil.'s N.W. by W. from cape Mu<1kh, is a narrow strait altoiit 1.^, miles lon^, and only from '.\ to ') cables wide, the shores »»n both sitles beinj,' hi^'li, rugf,'ed, ami Hteep-to.* The narrows are danj^erous fo.- lar^e vessels diiriny the stren>,'th of either stream, and it is recomim'iided to only enter at or near slack water, and to keep the eastern shore aboard in order to avoid Hippie rock. The strictest attention to the steerage is essential. It is stated on g<»od authority that ii vessel steaming at the rate of 13 knots has been unable to make headway, and even to l)e set ba<'k, while attem))ting the narrows during spring tides ; also, that during the south-going stream an eddy sets N.W., close to the cliflH on the western shore, which those having good local knowledge have taken advantage of. i 9« ; f • He« Admiralty plan of Seymour narrown, No. 638 ; scale, m = 20 inohes. ^ i IMAGE EVALUATSON TEST TARGET (MT-3) is. £?, 1.0 I.I 1^ 1.8 1.25 |||U |,,6 •4 6" ' ► Photographic Sciences Corporation ^. €^ c\ \ ^ O^ e3 WEST MAIN STREET WESSSR.N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 ''^'f *" ^ w ■ i ".: 250 GEORGIA STRAIT TO CAPE SCOTT. [Chap. VII. Coming from the southward, Duncan bay and Menzies bay are convenient anchorages for awaiting slack water at Seymour narrows. Northward of the narrows, Discovery passage takes a north- westerly direction for 12 miles to Chatham point, the shores becoming more high and rugged than before. On the eastern shore are several bays or openings, but, with the exception of Plumper bay, are too deep to afford anchorage : the western shore is nearly straight, and near Chatham point are Otter cove and Elk bay, both affording anchorage. Ripple rock. — A c^^i gerous rock, about 1^ cables in extent, in a N.N.W. and S.S E. direction, with a depth of 2J fathoms on it, lies nearly in the centre of Seymour narrows, but rather on the western side. Its shoalest part lies .3 cables S.S.W. h W. from the north-west point of Maud island, and nearly 2 cables from the nearest land of Wilfred point ; it is near the position of the heaviest tide race. Tides and tidal streams. — It is high water, full and change, in Seymour narrows, about 4h. Om., springs rise about 12 feet. In April a small diurnal inequality of height was observed at high water, but at low water there was usually an inequality of 6 to 8 feet. The south-going stream begins from 15 to liO minutes after low water, and runs until high water, or about 10 minutes after it. The duration of slack water after both streams is generally 10 to 20 minutes, but sometimes there is no slack. The north-going stream begins from 15 to 80 minutes after high water, and runs until low water, or about 10 minutes after it. In the narrows, both streams attain a rate of 10 knots at springs ; south-eastward of Maud island the rate is 5 knots. It must be noted that although in the summer the times of high and low water, and the turns of the streams are tolerably regular, in the winter or during bad weather they cannot be predicted with any certainty. Plumper bay, on the Valdes island shore half a mile north from Seymour narrows, is about two-thirds of a mile deep, and the same in width, affording anchorage in from 14 to 9 fathoms, near its south- east part, easy of access, well sheltered, and out of the tide. If unable to proceed through the narrows in consequence of the tide, Plumper bay becomes a very convenient stopping place, and no directions are necessary for entering it.* * See plan of Plumper bay on Admiralty ohart, No. 338 ; scale, m =3 2*0 inches. Chap. VII.] DISCOVERY PASSAGE,— HEYMOU 11 NARROWS. 251 The titliil streams and eddies in Plumper bay ; if anchored far ont are sometimes strong, causing a vi'ssel to surge heavily on her cables. Caution must be used when anchoring, for a rock lies one cable ofl; shore in the south-east part of the bay. Deep Water bay, separatetl from Plumper bay l)y the peninsula of Separation head, is about one mile ileep, and half a mile broad, but too deep for anchorage. Granite point is a high white granite bluff on the eastern shore of Discovery passage, at 1) miles N.W. by N. from Seymour narrows. On both sides of the point is an opening, the southern one extending eastward for nearly '^ miles, and containing several islands. At 2 cables N.W. from Granite point is a rock with only 9 feet water on it. III OkishollOW channel, immediately northward of Granite point, divides Valdes island and joins Hoskyn inlet at Surge narrows. Seven miles from Granite point, an arm, locally ktiown as Hole in the Wall, branches off to the north-east into Bute inlet, 2 miles below Stuart island ; in this arm the tidal streams are rapid, 7 to [) knots. These passages are unsurveyed and should not be attempted. They are used by small local steam vessels calling at the logging camp in Wyatt bay. It is high water, full and change, at Surge narrows, at G hours ; springs rise 12 feet. Elk bay, on the west side of Discovery passage, at 9 miles N.W. from Seymour narrows, is about Ih miles broad and three-quarters of a mile deep. It affords indifferent anchorage, in 14 to 15 fathoms, about one-third of a mile from the head, and exposed to northerly winds ; Otter point, its so\ithern extreme, slopes gradually to the sea, with a small shingle beach running oft". A rock which covers at half flood lies 1^ cables off" shore, three- (^uarters of a mile N.W. from Elk bay. Otter cove, on the west side of Discovery passage, 15^ miles from Otter point and just south of Chatham point, is a small but snug anchorage, sheltered from all winds by Limestone island (about 100 feet high), in the centre of the entrance. Snag rock v/ith only 2 feet water on it lies one cable E.N.E. from Limestone island.* * iSiY' plan of Otter cove ou Admiralty chart, 2s'u. Mi) ; ucale, m( = 3 incheit. i 2:)2 GKOUGIA STRAIT TO CAPE SCOTT. [Chap. vn. If iiitentling to anchor in Otter cove, pass north of Limestone (Ijewis) island, ai)d anchor midway between it and the head of the cove,, in from 10 to 6 fathoms ; a large vessel should moor. The passagi' south of Limestone island is choked with kelp, the least water obtained was 4 fathoms, but there is probably less. The time of high ' /ater, full and change, in Otter cove is uncertain. Ohatliam point, a low rocky point, nearly 24 miles from cape Mudge, is the north-west extreme of Discovery passage, and also separates it from Johnston strait. Discovery passage is here 1^ miles wiile. Chatham point is situated in latitude .')0°20' 30" N., longitude 12.')° 28' 40" W. Beaver rock, awash at low water, lies 2 cables N.E. from the north extreme of Chatham point ; in rounding the point, the shore should not be approi»ched nearer than half a mile. A rock, some- times marked by kelp, with a depth of about 1.5 feet on it at low water, lies 4 cables off Chatham point, with Beaver rock S.W. | S. about 2 cables ; and eastern extreme of Chatham point S. if E. Between the point and Nodales channel are several strong eddies or tide rips. The point on Valdes island, opposite Chatham point, has a nearly bare steep rocky face, not much higher than Chatham point. Directions. — Northward of Seymour narrows, the tidal streams being weaker (i5 to ') knots), proceed in mid-channel. Chatha.n point should not be approached nearer than half a mile. Plumper bay, as before mentioned, affords good anchorage if waiting for the tide to proceed through Seymour narrows from the northward. NODALES CHANNEL is 8 miles long in a N. by E. direction between Thurlow and Valdes islands, and leading into Cardero channel ; its western entrance, which is upwards of one mile wide, with deep water, is 1^ miles N.E. by N. from Chatham point ; there are some tide rips off it. Hemming' bay. — In Hemming bay, on the west side of Nodales channel, a rock of small extent with a depth of 6 feet, and not marked by kelp, lies nearly in the middle of the bay, about W.S.W. 4 cables from the northern Lee islet. The water in the bay outside the rock is deep ; between the rock and the head are 17 fathoms. Sit cJiart, No. .'iHU. Chap, VII.] DISCOVERY PASSAOE.— .lOirNSTONR STRAIT. 253 Hardingre island, :<00 feet high, about thi-ee-quarters of a niHe long and a (quarter of a mile wide, is about one uiile W. by N. from the entrance to Cameleon harbour, with a passage on botii sides. Young passage, to the southward, is a quarter of a mile wide, and Burgess passage, to the northward, half a mile ; there is detq) water in both. MaycOCk rock. — Three-quarters art. Th« best paHHUge is on the wt^stern side of Channel rock, there ■ being about l5 feet at h)w water ; the passage eastward of it has \, only 12 feet. The depth of water in the port varies from ('» to |i 9 fathoms, with a muddy bottom. | Channel rock, of small extent and very dangerous, having only jj 4 feet over it, lies in mid-channel 3^ cables S.W. .V S. from Houlder ■I point, so that unless specially require to enter this port, tlie anchorage 'i of port Harvey, and Blenkinsop bays, which are at no great distance *[ from its vicinity, ought to bo preferred, being both secure and easy ij of access. Boulder point, the north-east point of the channel, is low, with a stony beach round it ; a shoal extends off it northward and eastward for .') cables, with 1^ fathoms in some parts. Robbers Nob is a remarkable low grassy point on the north side of | the i)ort, about one mile from Boulder point. ||j Shoal creek, at the head of port Neville, is ahout 2 miles long, '; narrow, and not recommended, as its entrance is only one cable •: wide, with a rock in the middle ; from its head a mud flat extends j off nearly one mile. I k Anohoragre. — The best anchorage is about half a mile south-west I of the Nob in G or 7 fathoms. Temporary anchorage for a night I may also be had at the outer part of the entrance, but the soundings |, decrease very suddenly when abreast Milly island. 'j >> Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in port Neville at Oh. 30m.; springs rise 17 feet, neaps 12 feet ; the stream runs from one to 2 knots at the entrance. j Stimpson reef. — At 4 miles W. by S. ^ S. from the entrance of ^ port Neville, and a quarter of a mile off shore, lies Stimpson reef, ; which covers at half flood. !f PORT HARVEY indents the coast in a northerly direction for 4 miles, with a breadth varying from a quarter to three-quarters of a mile, and affords good and well-sheltered anchorage in 7 to 9 fathoms, J muddy bottom, at half a mile from its head. There are several j small islets (Mist) within it, and the shores are rugged ; from its i head swampy ground extends north-east, and to the north-west is a narrow gorge which partly fills at high water and joins Knight inlet.* Set; chart, No. 581. ♦ *«• Admiralty plan of Port Harvey, No. tl34 ; scale, m = 4-0 inches. a0 11tf48 R2 I ^' 2»50 aUOROIA HTRAIT TO CAPK SCOTT. [rhan. vri. Broken islands, ofT the oast Hide of tlu> entrance, are low rngged, and of Hinall extent ; foul ground extends from them in a northerly direction for three-ijuarters of a mile ; a boat paatMige exists eastward of them. Havannah channel, the entrance of which is 1^ miles north of Broken islands, runs in a north-easterly direction from the east Bide of port Harvey, connecting it with Call creek. Its length is about 4 miles, and its breadth varies from one-liidf to one mile ; the shores are high and much broken, and the depths in mid-channel vary from 9 to ')() fathoms. There are several islands within it, which lie mostly in mid-chaniu'l. PIull island, the largest, is three- quarters of a mile long, and half a mile broad. Boughey bay, in the south-east part of Havannah channel, is about one mile deep in a southerly direction, and half a mile broad ; a vessel may anchor in this bay at half a mile from the head, in from 10 to 14 fathoms, but the passage to it has not been sufficiently examined to recommend its being used as an anchorage. Browning rock, in the north part of Havannah channel, about one- third of a mile north of Hull island, has only 12 i^et over it, ajul lies nearly in the fairway of the channel to Call creek ; there is an apparently clear passage westward of it. Caution. — As the soundings are uneven and the bottom rocky west and north-west of Hull island, great care should be used in navigating this channel near that neighbourhood. Call creek, the eastern termination of the inlet leading from Havannah channel, is of considerable extent, its length in a north- easterly direction being 12 miles, and its breadth varying from a half to 1^ miles ; the shores on either side are high and precipitous, rising abruptly to mountains from 1,(X)0 to 4,70() feet in height. The head terminates in a low swamp, and a valley extends north-east from it. There is no anchorage whatever except near its entrance, on the north side amongst the Warren islands, where from 6 to 14 fathoms will be found. These islands, four in number, and small, are half a mile from the entrance ; they are parallel to the shore from one to 2 cables off it. A vessel may anchor between the two southern islands in from 6 to 10 fathoms. See chart, No. 581. Chap. VII.] JOHNMTONK STRAIT.— FORWOOD BAY. 261 Chatham channel, the east part of which coinniencos at Root point, the north-went extreme of Havannah channel, trends west- wards, connecting these waters with Knight inlet ; itrt breadth as far as surveyed varies from 2 to 3 cables, the depth in mid-channel is 4 fathoms. It is not recommended to use this channel nntil further explored, as only 4 miles of it have at present been examined. Directions. — If intending to anchor in port Harvey, keep in mid-channel till within the Mist islands, when the anchonige opens out ; anchor in 7 fathoms in the middle of the harbour, at about half a mile from the head. The anchorages in Boughey bay, Havannah channel, and among the Warren islands on the shore of Call creek, are secure ; but the passages to them, though probably deep, have not been sulficiently examined to give directions for entering them. Tides. — It is high water, full and - ii nge, in port Harvey at Oh. 30m. ; springs rise 10 feet. Escape reef, lying 2 miles W ' y S. ^ 8. from Broken islands, md half a mile off the north shore of Joh/istone strait, is about one cable in extent, has 4 ftet least water on It, and is marked by kelp in the summer. This reef, which has deep water around it> is in the track of vessels entering port Harvey from the westward ; to avoid it, keep in the middle of the strait till the entrance of the port comes well open, bearing N.N.E. or N. by E., when steer in for it. Forward hay, 3 miles W.S.W. from port Harvey, is about IJ miles broad, and three-quarters of a mile deep, with a small islet 30 feet high off its south-west point ; its shores are moderately high, and a bank extends nearly 3 cables from its head. This bay affords good anchorage, in 14 to 10 fathoms, off the edge of the bank, at about two-thirds of a mile N.E. of its south-west point, well sheltered from all except south-easterly winds, and even these send in no sea ; it is easy of access for any class of vessel, and a very good stopping place. Caution. — Entering it from the eastward guard against the Escape reef. Boat harbour. — From Forward bay, the northern shore of Johnstone strait becomes cotP.paratively low, and trends W. by S. for ^1 r 1 St-e cbiurt, Nu. bUl. 262 (lEOROlA STRAIT TO CAl'B SCOTT. [Chap. Vll. 15 miles to Weynton i)aHi:«ifj:e, at the termination of the Htrait. Hoat harbour, a small cove affording shelter to boats, is 6 miles westward of Forward bay. HANSON rnd CRAOROFT ISLANDS. —Between Boat harlK)ur and Weynton passiige the shores of Cracroft island are low and rocky. The island is about 15 miles long ; and off its south west part, at the distance of half a mile from the shore, and 2^ miles east from Blakeney passage, are the Sophia ialcts, of small extent. Hanson island is separated from Cracroft by a passage one mile wide ; its south side is 3 miles long, and off its south-west point are some rocks extending 2 or 3 cables westward. Growler cove indents the west end of Cracroft island in an K.N.K. direction for three-quarters of a mile, with a width of about 1^ cables, and from 20 to 5 fathoms water. At the head a Hat runs out for a short distance. Directions. — For a steamer, or sailing-vessel with a fair wind, the navigation of Johnstone strait is perfectly easy, it being only requisite to keep in mid-channel, except when nearing Helmcken island from the eastward ; when Eden point opens of the south-west Ijoint of Thurlow island, keep to the northward until the south extreme of Hardwicke island is seen open of Helmcken island, bearing S. 78° W. ; steer for this until the next point eastward of Eden point on the north side of Thurlow island is seen open of Eden point, and the point one mile westward of Camp point bears S.W. by S., when alter course to the southward (avoiding Speaker rock) and keej) in mid-channel in the passage south of Helmcken island. If wishing to anchor for the night, Vere cove, Knox, Blinkinsop, anil Forward bays, and port Harvey on the northern side, afford good anchorage, and are, with the present Admiralty charts, easy of access. BROUGHTON STRAIT, which connects Queen Charlotte sound with Johnstone strait, is upwards of 14 miles in length, east and west, the breadth varying from 1 miles at the east, to one mile at the west entrance. Its southern shore is formed by Vancouver island, and the northern by the south side of Malcolm island, and both, except near Beaver cove, are low. There are several islands, rocks, and shoals in the eastern part ; but there is a clear navigable passage along the southern side half a mile wide in the narrowest place. Sec ohai-l, Xo. 681. Ohaj). VII.] DROUGHTOX STRAIT.— TIDKS. 263 There are several anchorages along both sides of the strait, available as stopping places, — Alert bay, on the south shore of Cormorant island ; port McNeill on the Vancouver shore ; and Mitchell and Rough bays on the south side of Malcolm island. Nimpkish river, which disembogues on the south shore o£ the strait, is a stream of considerable size. ll Tides and tidal streams. — In Broughton strait it is high water, full and change, at Oh. 'AOm. ; the rise and fall being 14 or 15 feet. In the navigable channel the streams run from one to 4 knots, but in the Race and Weynton passages 3 to 5 knots, turning everywhere about 2 hours after high and low water by the shore. Beaver cove, at the south-east extreme of Broughton strait, extends upwards of one mile in a southerly direction, and is half a mile wide ; its shores are high, and the depth is too great for anchorage. Mount Holdsworth, a remarkable conical peak, 3,040 feet high, and very conspicuous from the eastward, rises 3 miles S.W. of the cove.* Nimpkish river, which flows into a shallow bay on the south shore, 5 miles westward of Beaver cove, is upwards of one cable wide at the entrance ; a bank dries off it for ne-.rly one mile, leaving a narrow winding channel with about 5 feet water, into the river.* Nimpkish river is navigable by a steam launch, at low water for about half a mile from the mouth, a rapid then stopping further progress ; at high water the rapid is quiet and a launch can reach one mile higher. A red buoy, in 3 fathoms, marks the northern extreme of Nimpkish bank opposite Alert bay. On the north bank of the Nimpkish, at the entrance, is a small plateau of grassy land, on which are the ruins 'of the large native village Cheslakee. The river flows through a broad valley bounded by high mountains for a distance of about 6 miles, and then enters lake Karmutsen, an extensive sheet of water 12 miles long. It is high water, full and change, at Nimpkish river at Oh. 30m. ; springs rise 14 feet. Green islet, off the outer edge of this bank, is about 4 feet above high water, and is small and bare ; a rocky ledge which uncovers at low water, extends half a mile East from Green islet, and there is * See Admiralty sheet of plans, No. 2,U67 ; soale, in s= 3 inuhes. 264 GEORGIA STtlAlT TO CAPE SCOTT. [Chap. VII. also a rock at the same distance West from it. When navigating the strait, this islet should not be approached within 3 cables. Port MoNeill, on the south side of Broughton strait, about K) miles West from Beaver cove, runs in W.S.W. for 2 miles, is three- quarters of a mile broad, and affords a good, well-sheltered anchorage in 6 to fathoms. Its shores are low, and bordered by a sandy beach, which extends three-quarters of a mile from the head. From Ledge point, the north point of entrance, a narrow ledge, with from 3 to 5 fathoms on it, extends 1^ miles E.N.E. towards Haddington island ; kelp grows over this ledge in summer. A red buoy is moored in 5 fathoms off the eastern extreme of the ledge. Eel reef, lying 9 cables S.S.W. from Ledge point, and about 2 cables off the south shore of the port, covers at three-quarters flood. When leaving and bound westward, stand eastward until within half a mile of Haddington island before hauling to the northward round Ledge point. Pearse Islands, in the centre of Broughton strait, at its eastern entrance, are a group of small low islands, with some rocks and reefs extending half a mile north-west, and nearly one mile south-east from them. Blakeney passagre, between Hanson island on the west and the west extremes of Cracrof t and Harbledown islands on the east, varies in width from one mile to half a mile. It connects Johnstone strait with Blacktish sound. The strength of the tidal streams in it is from 2 to 5 knots. Weynton passagre, between Hanson and Pearse islands, is aboul, IJ miles wide, with depths in mid-channel varying from 40 to 60 fathoms. J'he shores on both sides are very much broken into rocks Hiid small islands ; the tidal streams rush through at the rate of from 5 to 6 knots ; and unless wishing to anchor in Mitchell bay, it should not be used. icace passagre, between Pearse and Cormorant islands, is two- thirds of a mile wide, but a rock lies in mid-channel at its south part. The tides set at the rate of from 3 to 6 knots through the passage, and it is dangerous. Hee chart, No. 5S1. Chap. Vll.J BROUGHTON STRAIT.— ALERT BAY. 265 Oormorant island lies in the centre of Rroughton strait, west of Pearse islands. It is abont 150 feet high, 2^ miles long, east and wpst, three-vquarters of a mile wide, and bordered by a sandy beach. Gordon point, its south-east extreme, is 2^ miles W. by N. from Beaver cove. .^ small patch of 4 fathoms marked by kelp lies 1^ miles W. by S. from Leonard point, the north-west point of Oormorant island. Alert bay, on the south side of Cormorant island, is nearly one mile wide, and half a mile deep, affording a good and well-sheltered anchorage in from t) to 9 fathoms, muddy bottom ; it is easy of access. There is an establishment here for tinning salmon caught in the Nimpkish river ; and a pier, at the extremity of which there is a depth of about 12 feet, extends from the north-eastern shore of this bay.* There is also a mission established, and quite a large Indian village, comprising most of the former inhabitants of Cheslakee. Yellow bluff, the south-west point of the bay, may be recognii ad by a remarkable yellow cliff at the extreme of the point. It is high water, full and change, in Alert bay at Oh. 30m. ; springs rise 15 feet. Haddington island, 7 miles West of Beaver cove, in the centre of Broughton strait, is small ; its south and west sides are steep-to, but from the northern shore a bar, with as little as 6 feet water in some parts, connects it with Malcolm island. Between Haddington island and the ledge running off from the north point of port McNeil is a passage three-quarters of a mile wide, with not less than 7 fathoms water in mid-channel. MALCOLM ISLAND, which forms the north side of Broughton •strait, is 13J miles long W.S.W. and E.N.E., with an average breadth of nearly 2 miles ; the shores are generally low, a sandy beach extending off a short distance from them. On its south side are Mitchell and Rough bays, in which vessels may anchor in 6 or 8 fathoms. Donegal head, its east point, is high, cliffy, bordered by a beach, and the tide runs strongly in its vicinity. Dickenson point, on the south side of the island, 7 miles westward from Donegal head, is connected to Haddington island by a bar, with only 6 feet on it in some parts. * iSi'e plan of Alert bay on Admiralty chart. No. 2.067 ; scale, w =■ 8 inches. 26»; QUEEN CHARLOTTI'] SOUND. [Chap. VII. Trinity bay, on the north .side of Malcolm island between Lizard and iioulder pointa, is an open bay 21 miles wide and one mile deep. Between the points of the bay the water shoals i steeply from 10 fathoms to a ledge having 10 fathoms on its outer edge, but which again shoals rapidly, and is covered with kelp. Anchorage may, with care, be picked up on the outer edge of this ledge, in 7 fathoms, with Lizard point bearing E. by N. and Black blutf S.W. by W. ; but it is exposed to winds from the westward, between North and S.W. Kelp patch. — Foul ground marked by kelp extends half a mile oil: the western side of Malcolm island ; and I3 milos W.N.W. from Pulteney point, its south-west extreme, is a shoal patch of 4^ fathoms, also marked by kelp. Directions. — Passing through Broughton strait from the eastward, when abreast Beaver cove, in mid-channel, a W. ^ S. course, to pass not more than 2 cables south of Cormorant island, will keep a vessel clear to the northward of Nimpkish bank, and when the west point of Cormorant island bears N. by E. she will be westward of it ; then steer to round the south-west point of Haddington island within a ((uarter of a mile, to avoid the ledge off Ledge point, and when the north shore of (Jonnorant island opens of Haddington island bearing E. by N. I N., steer out of he strait in mid-channel. None, except small craft, should go northward of Haddington inland. Those in sailing-vessels would lind it tedious to beat through this strait, and as there are several dangers it is not recommended to do so. QUEEN CHARLOTTE SOUND is an extensive arm of tlie sea, connecting the inner waters north of Vancouver island with the Pacific. Its length is upwards of 30 miles, running in an easterly direction, and its breadth varies from 10 to 20 miles, being bounded on the north by the shores of the mainland of British Columbia, and on the south by the north shore of Vancouver island. In the north and north-east parts are innumerable rocks and islands ; but along its southern sides are two broad and navigable channels to or from the Pacific* Broughton strait enters this sound at its south-east part. From thence to Thomas point the coast of Vancouver trends W. by N. for ♦ Sec oharw Nos 581. 582 Cliap. VII.] liUAVBR HAUBOUK. 207 1) miles, and i« low ; it is bordered the whole distance by ii beach composed of sand and boulders, and foul ground marked by kelp extends off it, from a quarter to half a mile. If intending to enter Beaver harbour from the eastward, do not approach this shore within one mile till near Tliomas point ; and as but very few soundings have been obtained in thie part of Queen (Charlotte sound, if beating to windward, great caution ought to be observed when standing to the northward. Su quash anohoragre.— At 7 miles West from port McNeill, the south shore of Queen Charlotte sound is bordered by shoal groutd extending 4 cables off, and on which anchorage may be had in from 2^ to 4 fathoms. Care, however, must be observed when anchoring here, as reefs which dry at low water and shoal patches lie scattered about.* It is high water, full and change, at Su quash anchorage at Oh. 30m. ; springs rise 16 feet. BEAVER HARBOUR, on the south side of the sound, 9 miles westward of Broughton strait, is 3 miles wide at the entrance and 2 miles deep. The harbour is protected by several islands lying across, and within the entrance ; its shores are low, and from the south shore a bank extends 3 or 4 cables ; a short distance inland from its western side are seven remarkable hills, varying in height from 400 to 640 feet. There is good anchorage in the south and west parts of the harbour, but north-easterly winds send in a heavy sea, rendering it impossible to land in ships' boats on the south shore for days together.! Thomas point, the south-east extreme of the harbour, is low and rocky ; some rocks lie upwards of 2 cables off it to the westward. Moffat rock, H cables westward of Thomas point, is 3 cables off shore, just at the outer edge of the bank, and uncovers at low water. Deer island, two-thirds of a mile North of Thomas point, is about H miles in circumference, wooded, and about 240 feet high ; its shores are rocky, and extending nearly 4 cables off its north-west part is a reef marked by kelp, with 9 feet water over it. Eagle island lies close off its south-east point, with a small rock, 15 feet high, not more than a quarter of a cable from its southern extremity. * See plan of Su qua.- anchorage on Admiralty chart, No. 581 ; scale, in = U inches, t ike Admiralty plan of Beaver harbuur, Nu. 2,007 ; ucale, in = ij iachou. :ii 268 QUEEN CHARLOTTE SOUND. [Chap. VII. Twin rock lieB midway between Round and Peel islands ; a reef extends for more than one cable from its east and south ends, the latter being nearly connected with the shoal extending from the north end of Deer island. Ro md island, half a mile N. by E. of Deer island, is small, but high, and conspicuous from the eastward. Peel island, 200 feet high, in the north part of Beaver harbour, is three-quarters of a mile long S.W. and N.E., about one-third of a mile broad, and Ijetween it and the west shore of the harbour is Daedalus passage 2 cables wide in the narrowest part, with 17 fathoms water ; at 4 cables north of it are the Charlie islets, small, and two in number. A rock, marked by kelp, with a depth of 5 feet on it at low water, lies with the northern point of Round island bearing W. by N. ^ N., distant l^^^ cables. There is a depth of 2 fathoms, also marked by kelp, distiint half a cable S.S.W. from the rock. Cattle islands, which lie in the middle of the harbour, are small and connected with each other at low water, and at 1| cables, N.N.W. of the islands, there is a shoal of '^ fathoms. At 1^ cables south of them is Shell islet, the observation spot on its top is in lat. 50° 42' 36" N., long. 127^ 25' 7 " W. ; a reef awash at high water lies one cable south of it. Cormorant rock, lying one-third of a mile off the western shore of the harbour, and nearly half a mile West of Shell islet, covers at high water, and has from 4 to 6 fathoms close-to ; mid- way between this rock and Cattle islands is a shoal patch of i)^ fathoms. Dillon point, the north-west extreme of the harbour, and separating it from Hardy bay, is bold and rocky ; some small islets lie to the south-east of it close in shore. Directions. — Beaver harbour is easy of access to sailing-vessels as well as steamers. There are three passages into it, but the southern between Thomas point and Deer island is the best, and generally used. This channel is wide enough for a vessel to beat through ; and the only caution required in entering it, is not to -ound Thomas point nearer than 2 cables in order to avoid the rocks off its north-west part, after passing which steer for Shell islet. If 3ntering the harbour by Dsedalus passage, steer in mid-channel ; passing between Cormorant rock and the 3^ fathoms shoal 1^ cables eastward of it. A sailing-vessel could not easily work through it, See chart, No. 2,Uti7. Chap. VIT.] BEAVER HARBOUR.— BARONET rAS.SAOE. 2*59 however, as the breadth abreast Peel island contracts to about li cables. Anchor in 10 to 12 fathoms about 2 cables south-east from Shell islet, with Thomas point East, or E. by N. Good anchorage in from 6 to fathoms, and better sheltered from all w inds, may be obtained westward of the Cattle islands : but in rounding Shell islet give it a berth of about 2 cables to avoid the reef south of it. Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in Beaver harbour at Oh. 30m. ; springs rise 15|, neaps 1 1^ feet. Hardy bay, westward of Beaver harbour, separated from it by Dillon point, indents the coast in a southerly direction for 4 miles ; it terminates in a narrow creek 1} miles long, and 2 to 4 cables broad, with a sand-bank extending off its head for three-quarters of a mile. The shores of the bay are ragged, and off the west side, near the head, are some outlying rocks. There is no anchorage, except in the small creek at the hea fathoms in it. Great care must be observed when passing through Steamer passage, as a dangerous rock, awash at low water, lies a little over 2 cables N.N.W. of it. Clio channel, the continuation of Baronet passage, to the north-east along the north side of Cracroft island, between it and Turnour island, and communicating with Knight inlat, is 7 miles long, Negro rock (awash at low water), lies in the fairway half a mile S.W. by W. from Sambo point, and to avoid which the south-east shore of Turnour island should be kept aboard at about 2^ cables distai\t. Lagoon cove, a small sheltered nook on the north side of Double islands, 2 miles S.E. of the junction of Clio channel with Knight inlet, affords anchorage for a small vessel in 10 fathoms. When entering, pass in mid-channel between the north shore of Double islands and a small round island northward of them, but do so with caution. From the head of Lagoon cove a chain of lakes connect the cove with port Harvey {see page 259). Harbledown island, forming the northern shore of Baronet passage, is G^ miles long, in an E.N.E. and W.S.W. direction, and '] miles across at its broadest part, its highest elevation (over Baronet passage) being 1,240 feet. Parson bay, on the west side of Harbledown island, is 1^ miles deep, and three-quarters of a mile wide, shoaling gradually from 30 fathoms just inside the entrance to 14 fathoms at its head. Anchorage may be obtained in the south-east corner, well sheltered from all but westerly winds blowing down Blackfish sound, in which direction it is open. See chart, No. 581. Cliap. VII.] BARONRT PASSAGE.— FAHEWKLL HARROm. •271 Compton island, three-quarters of a mile lonj? east anil west, is JWO feet high, and is separated from Harbledown island by White Beach passage. Berry island, north-east of Compton island, is nearly one mile long and forms the east side of Farewell harbour. Lewis island is separated from Berry island by Villa<;e passage ; it is 2^ miles long, and forms the north side of Farewell harbour, and the entrance to Knight inlet lies along its northern shore. BLACKFISH SOUND, between the north shore of Hanson island and Swanson island, has an average width of li miles, and leads from Queen Charlotte sound into Parson bay and Blakeney passage to the south-east, and to Farewell harbour and White Beach passage to the northward. Swanson island, forming the north shore of Blackfish sound, is 2^ miles long, east and west, and one mile wide, with regular bold shores, and only one or two small indentations. Harbour cone, at its east end, is 510 feet high. Numerous small islets and reefs lie off the north shore of the island for nearly one mile. Freshwater bay, on the south side of Swanson island, about 4 cables westward of the southern entrance into Farewell harbour, affords anchorage for small vessels in G fathoms, but it is exposed to southerly winds.* Farewell harbour is a snug anchorage for a small vessel, half a mile across in every direction. Its approaches, however, both from the northward and southward, are only half a cable wide, that to the northward from the main entrance to Knight inlet being obstructed by the Twilight reefs and several islets lying half a mile outside it. Entering through North passage, Charles point (the west entrance point), kept touching Maggy point (the southern point of North passage on the eastern shore), bearing S.S.E., clears the Twilight reefs, passing eastward of them.* The southern entrance, named West passage, between Punt rock and Apples island (lying close to the shore of Swanson island), and the Star islands lying off the north-west shore of Compton island, leads out of Blackfish sound and must be approached with caution, as shoal ground extends 2 cables in a south-west direction from the latter islands, having on its extreme a depth of 4 fathoms, leaving a passage to the east of Punt rock only half a cable wide. Twilight rock, awash at high water, lies 7 cables N.W. by N. from Charles point, and 2 cables W. ^ N. from it is Chick reef, one ca de * See plan of Farewell harbour on Admiralty chart. No. 681 ; scale, 7» = 2*5 inohea; 272 QUKBN CHARLOTTK SOUND. [Chap. VI T. in extent, and drying 4 feet. To the wefltwanl of the above dangers 18 a group of Hinall islets and reefs extending along the whole of the north shore of Swanson island nearly one mile from it. The southern entrance, which should only be taken by a small vessel, should bo approached on a N.E. | N. bearing, passing three- quarters of a cable from Bare rock (10 feet high) at the east side of Freshwater bay, 2h cables S.W. from Punt rock ; on this bearing Stripe island, a small island on the north shore of the harbour, should be seen midway between Apples and Star islands. When abreast of Apples island haul gradually to the eastward and anchor in 18 fathoms in the middle of the harbour, with north point of Star island bearing W. by S. .^ S., and Maggy point N. by W. ^ W., distant 1^ cables from Compton island. If it can be clearly made out, the north extreme of Kamux island open a little north of the north-west Star island, bearing N.E., will clear the shoal ground extending south-west of the Star islands. Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in Farewell harbour at Ih. ; springs rise 15 feet, neaps H feet. Villa§re passage, between Lewis and Berry islands, is a narrow but apparently clear channoi Ij cables wide, leading out from the north-east part of Farewell harbour, north of the Carey group, to Native anchonvge. White Beach passagre, between Compton island and the north- west point of Harbledown island, is in its narrowest part only 80 yards across, and must be used with great caution. This passage also leads up through Indian passage, south of the Carey group, to Native anchorage. Villagre island, 3 miles long and 787 feet high, is situated 2 miles eastward of Lewis island, and is bounded on the north by Knight inlet and separated from Tumour island on the south-east by Canoe passage. The space between Lewis island and Village island is occupied by the Indian islands. A narrow pass, Elliot passage, leads into Knight inlet, between the easternmost of these islands and Village island. At the south-west end of Village island is MamalilacuUa village, and at the mouth of a small bay to the south-eastward of it, at the entrance to Canoe passage, is Native anchorage, with from 7 to aieti chart, No. 5Sl. (•Im)). Vri-l UlwVCKI'MSH SOUND.— KNir;HT INT.KT. -m S fiillioiDK. Hiiil islaiiils, two siiiull isl*>ts, li«> to tlic rtuiitliwa of it, find (MiinM and (Veil islets to llu" westward. Carey group, if< n clia'm of several small islands lyinj,' to th« southward of tlu' Indian islands, and stretehin^' across from Herry ifiland to Tumour ialand, a distance of 3 nxiles. Tumour island is 9 miles lon^' E.N.K. and W.S.W., and at iti centre '^ miles wide, narrowin;,' towards its extremitit's ; at its eastern end it is 1,580 feet hif?h. It is s-.-parated from Harbledown island on the south by Beware passaj,'e, Clio ehanntd ninninj? alonj? its south-east side, and Kni^jflit inlet alonj; its north-west sidt', the juncti(m of these two passaj^es takiuLf ])lacc at liatt bluff, its north-east point. Beware passage, lying between the north-east shore of Harbledown island and the south-\/t^st shore of Turnour island, leads from Native aiidioragc e;istw.ii'.l into Clio eh inn;'!. Vessels cannot pass tlnvtuj^h it Into Clio channel, owin^' to a Itai-rier of islets and rocks across it, at one niile from its junction with that channel. An Indian villaj^e (Karlukwei'S) is situated on 'I'njiionr island at the eastern entraiu-e to Beware passage. Canoe passage is a narrow pass leadinjjf from Native anchorage ahmg the south-east shore of Village island, l)etween it and Turnour island. At "2 miles uj) it is comidetely closed at low water by a stony barrier which dries across, jiud it is only available for canoes at high water. KNIGHT INLET.— Main entrance to this inlet, whi^i is one of the most extensive of the sea canals o!" British Columbia, lies northward of Swanson, Lewis, and Village islands, between them and Midsummer island and several smaller islaudn and rocks lies 'Sh miles E.N.K. from Donegal h'ead, the east extreme of Malcolm island, and may be easily recognised by White Cliff islands, a ch liu of small islets of a whitisli colour situated on the northern side of the pas.sage into the inli't. The enti-ancr- betwetui Wedge island on the north, and the n(»rth-west shore of Swanson island on the south, is ;^ cables wide, but further east Twilight reefs and Clock rook must be avoided ; the former is l| miles, ami the latter .') miles from Wedge island. These dangers should be passed to the north- ward, and .Jumble island, lying between them, to the southward. Srt: cluvrt. >"o. r)S|. SO II 'J IS 274 QURKN CHAItliOTTK HOUND. [CMmp. VI f after which » mi(l-('lii(imfl courHc Hlioultl lu' pn'scrved until wiHt of Lixly iHJaiKlH. Thp ontrancp propor to Kul>,'lit inlet, hot wt'Pii Wurr hliiff on the south anti Slopo point on tht« nortli, \n tliree-tiuarters of a mile wiile, and !)}s niiles from Wedgp ishvnd. From thence the inlet trends in a fjenend K.N.K. ilirection for X\ miles, and then turns 8U(Uleidy to the northward for 2(5\ miles to its termination, with an average width throughout of I i miles. The shores of the inlet are generally hold, and formed hy high mountains rising i)recipitously trom the water's edge, and (h>\vii the sides of which rush miny eatanicts produced by the dissolving snow. The water is everywhere deep, except at a spot about 7 miles eastward of Sargeaunt passage, where a rocky ridge was found to extend across the inlet, and on which there are heavy overfalls, but no less de])th than 2'.\ fathoms was obtained. There are but few i)laces that afford anchorage ; port Klizabeth on the north shore, and filendale cove on the south being the only two that may be considered available. At 11.^ miles east of Slope point. Tribune channel branches off to the northAvard. Tidal streams. — The tidal streams at the entrance to Knight inlet run at the rate of from one to )\ kn(»ts. Wedgre island, a small round island two cables in exi t, lies vU cables N.N.W. of the north-west shore of Swanson island, the channel into Knight inlet lying between them ; it may be boldly steered for, passing in mid-channel between Wedge island and the small islets lying close to the shore of Swanson island. Surge rocks are a small group of rocky islets lying 3 cables X.N.E. from Wedge island. White Cliff islands.— From Wedge island a line of small islets, named White (Miff islands, extends over one mile in a N.W. ^ N. direction witli patches of shoal water between. A rock awash at high water lies nearly one cable north-westward from the northern islet. These islands by their colour, as indicated by their name, form a very conspicuous object, and woxild be most useful for a stranger to identify the entrance to the main channel of the inlet. The southern White Cliff island is situated in latitude 50^ 38' 40" N., longitude 126° 44' 2(1" W. iSir chart, \o, 5S], cimi*. ^'"1 KMCHT (M.KT. •>7.' Midsummer island, s«'i»;ir,il'mK' Kniv'ln inlt't f'n.ni Spring' passHp', is tl'i(* I'tMt liiLrli, ii milt's InH',', uixl mik' mil'' w iilf. Owl iHlund, on*- inilo in Ini^Mli, oast aii*! wvnt, ami aliinit half u mile broad, lies oil' tlw west t-ntl of MiilsiniiintT islaml, with a narrow |);issajf« (Providence pasnij,'*') between iheni. I'assa^'e islet is a small round islet, about miilway between Surye rocks and Owl island. From the northern ish^t of the White ClifT islands another channel leads into Knij^'ht inlet on either side of Pas a^'o ish't. Jumble island is half a mile Ion;; (east and west), and lies 'I miles K.N.E. from \Ved},'e island. On its west side is Xi^'ht islet, and off its east point, lie the three small liush islets. When within 2 cables of Night islet haul eastward tn pass at that distanc*' south- ward of it. Jumble island, and the Hush islets. Indian islands lie on the south side of Kiiij,'ht inlet, between liewis and Villajje islands. Hetween them are several small channels leading t«» Native anchorage (sri> page 272), Itut only the easternmost, Klliol passage, is navigable, and that only by small vessels. OlOOk rook, which covers at half-flood, liec 2), cables Nortli of the easternmost of the Indian islands, and is especially dangentus to vessels going through Elliot passage. Tct ci;-ar it keep the coast of Village island aboard 2 cables distant. Passing up or down Knight inlet, (Mock rock may lie safely passeVf chart. No. 5«I. Chap. VII.] KNIGHT INLET.— PORT HLIZABKTH. 277 Sargeaunt passage ( Furnish), one milo eaat of Nic'koll paai»age, 2] miles long, is a narrow pass on the east side of Viscount island, and communicates with Tribune channel. It is high water, full and change, in Sargeaunt passage at Ih. Om. ; springs rise 15i feet, neaps 12 feet. Tsa ko nu cove, on the south side of the inlet round Protection point, is probably too deep for anchorage. Hoeya sound, on the north shore of Knight inlet, 7 miles from Protection point, is a bight ludf a mile wide, indenting the coast in a N.E. by E. direction. There are depths of more than -lO fathoms over the greater part of the sound, but it shoals suddenly to ;'> fathoms at 1.J cables from its head. Prominent point, on the south shore of Knight inlet, opposite the entrance to Hoeya sound, has a rocky ridge of less water than in the centre of the inlet, extending northward from it, on which there are heavy overfalls ; the least depth obtained during the survey was 2'd fathoms. Glendale cove (Kiokh), on the south shore of the inlet, im- mediately eastward of Macdoiudd point, takes a S.S.E. direction for l;j miles, and is three-quarters of a mile wide at its entrance. It ilries about half its length, anil the water in the remaining part is deep. A river flows into the head of Glenciale cove from a sheet of water one mile distant, nametl Tom Browne lake, about 5 miles long, which extends nearly to the head of Topaze harbour. Anchorage may, with care, be taken up in the soutii-east corner in 2JJ fathoms, with the right extreme of Observation point in line with Rapid hill, and a large boulder on the west side in line with the junction of Flora and MaedonaUl ridges, but the bank is very steep-to. Glacier. — On the east shore, at 14 miles from the head, over a gully, under (ilacier peak, there is a remarkable glacier a short distance fn-m tiu' sea. Anchorage was (i-ied for, but no Itottom was obtained at one cable from the shore witli It) f ithoms of line. Mount Blair, immediately over the head of the inlet, attains an altitude of 0,550 feet. Ik'v chart, No. jt>l. ^u QVEES CFlAHIiOTTK S^orM). [Chap. Vlt. Wall ijhih la '. — At 1], miles fniiu llic lioad of Knifj^lit "mlel <»ii the west slioie. afrordrt the only place where hu anchor could l)e dropped, and Ijy securing to the trees by a hawser, in a depth of ;5(l fathoms dose to the south shore, on west side of the bay. SPRING PASSAGE, between the south-west end of (Jilford islaml ami the north shore of Midsummer island, leading from Retreat passage into Knight iidet, is about half a mile wide, but at the eastern end the channel is contracted by Broken islands to a width of 15 cables ; the i)assage being to the north of these islands. RETREAT PASSAGE, an entrance to winch lies between House and Sedge islands, extends in a northerly direction, between lion wick and Gilforil islands, for tl miles. Along the shore of Jionwick island, which is bold-to, it is a clear navigable passage ; but the eastern shore is skirted by several small islands, islets, and rocks, between which a vessel should not pass. (Seabreeze island is the dargest and southernmost of these islands. Whale rock, 3 feet high, lies 4 cables north-east irom Seabreeze island, nearly midway between it and Yellow rock at the entrance to Health bay. Health bay, on the eastern shore, a l)ight one mile deep in a south-east direction, may, however, l>e safely entered Ijy passing in mid-channel between the soiith end of Sail island (which lies oif the entrance) and Yellow rock, '^h cables south of it, or midway between the latter and the shore, when convenient anchorage in H to 10 fathoms may be obtained. A nairow i)assage in the north- east corner of the bay communicates with a lagoon. GrebG cove, a iiarrow bight, one to 2 cables broatl, on the west shore, extends one mile in a W.S.W. direction, shoaling gradually from IS fathoms oil' its entrance, to (l iathoms al its head. Camj» bay, on the east shore opposite Grebe cove, is too snuill, and has too great a depth of water in it, foi- anchoring in. Tliere is a clear channel east of the Fox islands up to the entrance of Cramer passage, passing midway between the eastern islet of the chain and Solitary island. CRAMER PASSAGE, between the south-east shore of Baker island and nortii-wesi shore of (ifilford island, leading from Ketreat passage north-eastward into Fife sound ami to Shoal harbour, is a •Vc L-liiirt. No. "iSl. chap. VI I. i liKTREAT PASSAOK.— BOXWICK ISLAND. 279 mivigubh' t'lmiinol, 2 i-ablt's wide at its southern entrance. A sunken rock lies 1 j cableH West from Powell point, the north-east entrance point of the passage. At the northern entrance, at 1 i cables from the west shore, is a sand patch, about 2 cables in extent, with from 1) to 1(5 fathoms on it. By preserving a mid-channel course the passage may be boldly taken. 8hoal harbour, on the east sliore of Cramer passage, is a narrow inlet 1] miles long (east and west), to which access is gained by a channel 150 yards across from shore to shore, in some parts less than 40 yards wide between the IJ-fathoms lines, and in which there is a depth of only llij fathoms. It is only safely available for small coasting vessels, and with local knowledge. It is high water, full and change, in Shoal harbour at Ih. ; springs rise 15 feet, neaps 10 feet. BONWIOK ISLAND is ;> miles long (north and south), and 2 miles across, its highest part being about 770 feet. Off its south- west end, north of Sedge, Start, and High islands, it is skirted by numerous small islets and rocks, between which, near the shore of Bonwick island, sheltered anchorage may be found. Fog: islands are a small group lying off" the shore of Bonwick island, on the south siile of the entrance to Arrow passage. Kveiiing rocks and the ledger extending W.S.W. from Cove island, lie half a mile soutlnvard of them. Dusky cove, the anchorage above referreel to, affords anchorage in r» to 8 fathoms, about one cable eastward of Cove island, the largest of the islets. It is entered by a passage one cable wide between ledges of rock (which extend in patcli»'s iialf a mile W.S.W. from Cove island) and a ciuiin of islets to the southward. (Jare must be o)»served, when entei-ing, to uvoid the reefs, which may be cleared by keeping the north }>oint of the small Leading island at the head of the cove in line with the north extreme of South ishind, bearing E. hy N. .V N.* The westernmost of the reel's above uiciiti(»ne(l (Kvening rocks) covers at t) feet rise, and Ledge rock, the outer of the islets on the south side of the channel, is only I? feet above high water. Tmp and South islands lie eastward of Ledge rock, the former being 25 feet high. * Sfe plan of Dusky cove on Adniiinllv uh»it. No. ."iXl ; hohIc, hi ■ '2'o inches, m UUEEX CHAin-OTTE SOUND. [Chap. Vll. It is high water, full uiid change, in Dusky cove at Ih. (»m. ; springs rise 111 feet. Horse rock, awash at low water, is a dangerous rock lying oil' the north side of the entrance to Aitow passage, 8 caldes W. J, S. from the westernmost Fog island, and i) cables S.S.E. from the Coach islands. ARROW PASSAGE, l>etween I'unwick island to the s»»uti)- e ist, and Hudson and .Mars islands on tlie north-west, is a navigable channel. Having passed Horse rock, the passage may be boldly passed through in mid-channel, and if necessary, pass westward of Fox islands, and roumling the northern islet of that group at 1^ cables, pass between it and Steep island and enter Cramer passage. The Coach isjlands are a group of several small islands lying on the north side of the entrance to Arrow passage : they extend over a distance of three-quarters of a mile from the south-west end of Hudson island. This island, on the north side of Arrow passage, north-east of the Coach islands, is one mile long, and 'M, cables ))road. Mars island, 2| miles long, and three-quarters of a mile wide, lies close to, and north-eastward of Hudson island. Spiller passage, between it and Hudson island, leads out north-Avest amongst the islets on the south-west side of Eden island, and into Trainer and Philips passages. SUNDAY HARBOUR is a small l»ut sheltered anchorage all'ording refuge for small vessels. The western i-ntrance is between Hcrub island and Huston island (a small islet lying 2 cables north of it ). Half a niik^ in, the channel contracts to less than one cable betweon Narrows island and Island point, between which is a ridge with 4), fathoms on it, deepening again to 7 fathoms. There is a passage out to the eastward leading into Spiller passage.'* Crib island, forming the north-west shore of Sunday harbom*, is 1} miles long, and half a mile Avide at its broadest part. Anchorage should be taken up in mid-channel as convenient, but at not more than .'5 cables from the Narrows, in .5 fathoms, Avith Hush point bearing N. o F., and north point of Kale islaml shut in with Island point. &r jtlun <>{ Siiu'liij' liiirljouron AiliuinUty chart, No. .'.si ; sii\\\v, m - :ij iuolics Chap. VII.] ARHONV PASSAClh;.— FIFE SOUND. •ix\ It is liiffli water, full ami cliaii.i^c, in Siimlay liarliour at Ui. ; springs rise KJ feet. Eden island, forming the suuth-eurttern shore of the entrance to Fife sound, is about 4 miles long E.N.E. and W.S.W., anil l[, miles broad, and has some smaller islands and rocks otl its western end. Its south-west shore is a little more than half a mile northwai'd of Crib island, and the passage between them is divided, by a gro\i[) of islets lying in the centre, into two passages, that to the northward named Trainer, and that to the southward Philips passage. Marsden islands are a group of five islets lying eastward of the two passages ; south wartl of them, towards Spiller passage, ai'e several other islets and i-ocks ; but north-we t and north of them there is a clear channel to the north-east leading into .Joe cove (Kden island) and Misty passage, and thence northward through Blunilen and Old passages, on either side of Insect island, into Fife sound, south of the Benjamin group. These passages are, however, very narrow, anil shoal in places, and are not navigable except by small coasters. Tracey island, 1 J, miles long, and three-quarters of a mile wide in its bntadest ])art, lies betw'een tiie east emls of Kden and Mars islands. Between it and Eden ishuul is Misty passage. Monday anchorage, between Tracey island and Mars island, is a sheltered position affording secure anchorage midway between the shores of the above islands in about 8 fathoms. Baker island, forming part of the southern shore of Fife sound and the western side of Cramer passage, is situated eastward of Eden island, the triangular-shaped island named Insect lying between them. It is l,'.)ii.N.E. ^ E. from Lizard point, the north-east entrance point of Trinity bay (Malcolm island). The channel between is named George passage. *i Penfold island, tjr» feet high, covered with trees, and small, lies \}j miles eastward of Foster island ; the channel between Foster and Tenfold has not Ijeen examined. Holford islands, lying 2 miles N. by K. from Foster island, consist of two sniull islands, covered with trees, the tops of which are from ](IU to 2* M) feet high. From the western island, a reef which uncovei's ;{ feet at low water, extends one-third of a mile Avestward, and the islands in this direction should I)e given a berth of one mile. Salmon channel is between Foster island and Holford islands, in which a mid-channel course should be kejjt. CULLEN HARBOUR, on the soulii side of Mroughton island, ai tlie eiitnuiee to Fife sound, extends ul^out 7 cables in a N.N.W. direction. Its eiitiauee betwt't n Nelly island and the shore west- ward of Gordon i)oint is less than one cable wide, and, when entering, care should l)c taken to keep exactly in mid-channel. Inside, the harbour ojjens out to ;} cables wide, with depths of from 4 to (S fathoms.* At the heatl of the harbour, on the west side, a narrow boat passage, through which the tide runs with great strength, leads into Booker lagoon. m * » Plan of CuUcn liurbouroii .^dii'iralty chart, No. 571 ; scale, m = ti iuchcs. chap. VII.] FIFK SOUND.— VI NEU SOUND. :.'s:>, Anchoragre may he ha-l, w.'ll sIiiIi.'ihmI, in ,") talliniiis, samly iHttlom, at 1 2 cables 8. by E. from Davidsou island at the head of the harbour. Tides. — it is hiyh water, full and cliauj;'.', in CiiUcn liarboiir at noon ; sprinj^s rine 16 feet, neaps lU feet. Deep harbour, on lh«- north side of Fife sound, 7 miles within the entrance, is formed by a narrow inlet in IVarsc peninsula. At its entrance is .Iumi»er island, 2 cal)les eastward of wliicii, and just north of two small islets, is a reef, leavinji; a clear i)assage, 2 cables wide, along the north shore. The depths in the harltour vary from 14 to 157 fathoms ; but anchorage may be found oil' a small bight on the south shore, in IS fathoms, at '.) cables soutli-westwaril of the narrow entrance to the bight which forms the head of the harbour. Benjamill grroup, consisting of three islands and several smaller islets and rocks, lie ott' the south shore of Fife inlet, opposite Deep harbour. Indian passage, the narrow channel lying between them and the south shore, has a shoal patch of 1!, fathoms in it, and though otherwise apparently clear of danger, should not be attempted. Rugrgred island, lying l), miles eastward of Gull rock 'at the eastern extreme of the Benjamin grotip), has a rocky patch extending J o cables from its north-west side. Pym rock, which uncovers 2 feet at low water, and is stee[)-to, is a dangerous patch lying in the way of vessels entering Cramer passage. ^ Viner sound, on the .south-eastern shore of Fife sound, about ;'• miles north-east of Hugged island, gradually narrows from oiu' mile at (he enti'ance to 2 cables wide at the head, from which a lumk, drying at low water, extends half a mile. Anchorage may be had in 10 fathoms at about three-quarters of a mile from its head, abreast an Old Indian village. Burdwood group lies off the entrance to Viner sound. The largest, which is the north-western one, is 700 feet high. Do not pass between them. It is high water, full and change, in Viner sound al ih. Onx. springs rise 1.") feet, neaps 10 feet. •St' chart, No. ')X\. '.'H4 (iUEEN OHARLOTTK SOUNn. [(.'hap. VII. I Simoom sound, the futraiuf to wliicli is 1} inilt'ri N.W. from tlif Hardwood ^m'ou]) l)et\veen Deep Sea blutf on the east, and Folhird point on th«' we.st, extendn l.\ miles N.N.E, aiui then turns suddenly to West, which direction it maintains for nearly '2 miles as far as Curtis point, wliere the widtli decreases from half a mile to 2 cables, and the inlet bends to the south-west, expanding to a width of half a mile at its head, which is only separated by a narrow neck of land from 120 to 150 feet wide from Shawl bay, an indentation on the east side of Sutlej channel, and forming Wishart peninsula. The width oi SinH)om sound at the entrance is one-third of a mile, and on the eastern side, one mile from Deep Sea bluff, is the small islet l^iouisa. The water is dee}), but where the sound turns to the westward it slioals to 40 and gradually to 20 fathcmis, and south- westward of Curtis point in O'Bi'ien bay, decreases to 11 fathoms. Raleigh passage, northward of the Burdwood group, connects Tribune channel with Fife sound and Sutlej channel ; there is also a passage to the southwaril of the grouj) called Hornet passage. There is deep water in both these passages, but the former is the widei" and the more direct. TRIBUNE CHANNEL extends in a north-east direction for 10 miles ; it then takes a south-easterly and easterly direction for ') nailes to the entrance of Thompson sound ; thence it turns to the southward for 7 miles, communicating with Knight inlet (see page 273). Kwatsi bay, on the north shore of Tribune channel, about 8 miles eastward of the Burdwood group, indents the coast for al)out 2 miles in a northerly direction. The water in the southern part is very deep, but shoals at half a mile from the head of the bay to 2(S fathoms, and gradually to 1)5 fathoms. Wall ka na bay, on the south shore, opposite to Kwatsi bay, indents the shore of Gilford island in a south-westerly direction for nearly 2 miles, varying from 2 to i cables in width ; the depth at about one mile within the entrance being ;i2 fathoms, and near the head 18 fathoms. Bond sound, which indents the north shore, extends 3 miles, and has an aver.ige widtli of nearly one mile. Owing to the great depth of water, it affords no anchorage, there being 30 fathoms close Scf ohart, No. 581. Chap. VII.] TUIUrNK CHANNKL.— MUOUUHTON ISLANf). 2H.'» along«ido tlu' ininl Icmk ut its head, tliron^'li which somo wtrcains enter the sound. Thompson sound, <> )niU'S Houth-oaHtward ol' lioiul sound, extends in a north-east direction for 5 miles, its entrance bein^' on the east shore opposite Trafford point, where Tribune channel turns to the southward. At the head of the sound is SackvilU' island, and the Kakweiken river flows into the sound northward of it. Ik'tween Saekville island and the nuid Hat off the river, the dcjiths shoal, but rather steeply ; anchoraf,'e, however, might with ease be picked uj) in the north-east corner, in 12 fathoms. Humphrey rock, Avith ;} fathoms water on it, lies nearly in the centre of the southern part of Tribune channel, abreast Hambcr point, the west salient point of Viscount island, and 2 miles to the north- ward of the north-east point of She well island. Gilford island, the lar^'est of the islands formini,' till' archii)elai,'o (m the eastern shore of Queen Charlotte sound, is IS/, miles lonjj in a north-east and south-west direction, and 11 miles wide at its north- east end, gradually decreasing to 2 miles near its south-west extreme (Bare hill). Gilford island is considerably elevated, the highest parts being near the north-east end, where mount Head rises to a height of 4,820 feet ; mount James, near the centre, is 2,()7() feet high. The south-west part of the island, however, is not so lofty, the hills over Rare hill point not being more than '.•2") feet high ; but round its eastern, southern, and northern shores mountains ranging from 2,(I()() to l,f»CK) feet high rise almost precipitously from the coast. Evangeline rock, which dries at low water, lies about 1.^ cables W.N.W. from White point on the north-west side of the island. BROUGHTON ISLAND, which forms the north-west shore of Fife sound, and the southern and western shore of Sutlcj channel, is 15 miles long in an east and west direction, and (i miles wide at its western end, gradually tajiering to one mile Avide at its eastern extreme. The island is much indented, the largest inlet, Greenway sound, nearly separating the island into two j)arts ; and a canoe l)assage also leads from Greenway sound to Carter bay, at the west point of the island, thus detaching the northern part of Broughton island, which is, therefore, really another island. The hills on Broughton island are not so lofty as those of the mainland contiguous .S^^ chart, No. 581. •>«»; «^TTRK\ CHAUI.OTTK SOUN'D. [rhap. vn. to it, the lii.i,'hfsl pwikrt bciu},' moniit ISrowiu', 1,7 I '» Ift't.mi the north shore (»f Gn't'invay houiuI, and Quoin or Stoiicy mountain, IJtW tVct hi^h over the ciitrant'o to D«M>i) harbour; tlic rcniainini,' hill ranj/fH viiryinfj; from (!(ii> to l,(KHt ft'ot in ht'ij,'hl. Dobbin l)iiy ami Cockatrice bay alFord no anchorat^c. Polkingrhorne islands lie off the coaat at the entrance to Welln jtass ; the lar^'est irtland, IW feet high, being over one mile iu length in u N.W. and S.E. direction, but only about 2 cables wide, and is distant from Rroughton island li miles. Ft)nl ground extends for some distance from the east side of this group, and it should not be ai)proiU'lied within a distance of half a mile. Caution. — Vessels jjissing between the l^)lkin'jrhorne islands, Vincent, and Percy islands, should do so with great caution, and should not attempt to piss between the latter island and Dickson island. Carter bay is formed between Dickson island and Broughton island, on the east shore of Wells pass ; the water in it is deep. WELLS PASS is the entrance to Sutlej channel from Queen Cliarlotte sound. From the entrance between lioyles point and Percy island, the pass extends .') miles in a N.N.E. direction to its junction with Patrick passage, Grappler s(»und, and Drury inlet. The width at the southern part, between Dickson island and Popple- well point, is only half a mile, widening gradually to one mile at I he northern end. Ommaney islet, about 120 feet high, is the westernmost of tlie islets lying in Wells pass ; its south and south-east sides are surrounded by kelp to a distance of about 2 cables, amongst which are rocks drying at low water. The passage into Wells pass is west ward of Ommaney islet, which narrows the navigable channel to a width of 4 cables. When entering Wells pass and approaching Ommaney islet, keep the highe.^t peak of Numas islands (lying ofl" the entrance) just open of Boyles point until Ommaney islet is well shut in under Dickson island ; whence steer to pass in mid-channel between the islet and James point. SUTLEJ CHA.NNEL from its entrance (Wells pass) takes a N.N.Fi. direction for nearly 5 miles, varying from three-quarters to See chart, No, 581. Chap. VII.] WKIil.S PASK— THACKV HARBOUR. •,'K7 on«i milo In liroadtli. At that diKtancc it tnrnw to tlic eastward throujfh Patrick pasrtajje between Atkinwoii and Kiunaird inlands, and thence Houtli-castward lor (» uiiU's to tlie »Miiran«e lo (in'oiiway sound, whence it takes a j,'eneral K.S.K. direct iou throu^'ii PuhU'v and Sharp passages (on either side of the Stackhouse island), to its junction with Penphrase passage {nee page 2S1>) and Kingcome inlet. It is a deep channel throughout, and there is no known inipediiuent to safe navigation by maintaining a mid-channel course. TRAOEY HARBOUR, on the eastern shore of Sutlej channel (Broughton island), nearly '.) miles within Wells pass, is at its entrance between Lambert island (on the north) and Mauve islet, 4 cables wide, but it soon narrows from 2i to 1.^ cables, maintaining that width for a little over one mile in an east direction ; the harbour then opens out and forms two bights at its head, Napier bay, tlie northern, being 2h cables broad. The only known danger is tlie reef skirting Star rock (which lies on the n(»rth shore about half-way through the narrow portion of the harbour).* Anchoragre, completely sheltered, may be ol)tained in from ('» to 7 fathoms in Napier bay, «tr abreast Freshwater cove, at about 2 cables E.S.E. of Star rock, in Id fathoms, mud l)ottom. Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in 'I'racey harbour at noon ; springs rise UJ feet, neaps rise IH feet. Lambert island, on the north side of the ejitrance to Tracey harbour, is 2/, cables long and 2 cables wide, and li.">() feet high ; immediately to the eastward of it is Wolf cove, extentling -I cables in a north-easterly direction with a width of 2 cables at the entrance, gradually narrowing to one cable ; it, however, atfonls no anchorage. Atkinson island, 715 feet high, lies close off the north-west shore of Broughton island, at 2 miles northward of the entrance to Tracey harbour; some islets extend off its south-west point. Do not attempt to pass between it and Broughton islajid. Surgeon islands, a group of small islets close together. He half a mile West of Atkinson island at the entrance to Patrick i)assage. Einnaird island, 080 feet high and l^ miles long, liis on the east side of Grappler sound, with Dunsany passage on the east and Patrick passage on the south. .Srr plan of Tracey harbour on Admiralty chart. No. 571 ; suale. m=:G*0 inchps. •>HS • M'KRN (JHAKMHTK SOT'ND. [Ohll]*. VII. Qreenway sound, <>m i\w H(mth hIiokc <>I" Snilcj cliaiiiu'l, '> milcH onHtWf'rd (»r I'atriok pansiif;*', lias doep wat^r throuj?li(»iit itH entire extent, and aftordn no anchoraj^'e ; inside itH entntnce are Cecil and Maude islets, ISO and If)!) fet^t hi^rli. CYPRESS HARBOUR, in Hluiri) passage, 2h miles eastward of the entranei' to (ireenway soinul, extends about one uiik' south ; the up|)er half, however, is botii narrow and shallow. The entrance between Donald head (on the east side) and Woods ))oint is 2 cables wide, but the navif:fal)le channel is only a little over one cable wide ; the harltour tlu-n ojx'ns, and is from 'i to 4 cables across, the depths varying from !'.• fathoms in mid-channel to (5 fathoms abreast Berry cove.* Fox rock, awash at high water, lies in the entrance, and is the outer part of a reef which extends one cable East from Woods point. Anchoragre. — (Jood anchorage may be obtained on the west side 1 cables from Woods ])oint in t! fathoms, mud bottom, oft" T^erry cove, at one cable N.E. by X from Tree islet. The land southward of the anchorage, between the iiead of Berry cove and Botl'ey jjoint, is fringed with large cyi)ress trees. A stream of fresh water flows int(» Berry cove. Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in Cypress harbour at noon ; springs rise l(i feet, neaps U.j feet. Stackhouse island, (J'.'O feet high, is about half a mile in extent, and lies in the middle of Sutlej channel abreast the entrance to Cyjiress harbour. Sharp passage to the southward of it, and Pasley l)assage to the northward, are both half a mile wide. Magin islands, three small islands from 120 to 180 feet high, lie one mile northward of Stackhouse island, and half a mile froni the west shore, a small rock, awash at hij 'i water, lying between. Tidal streams in Sutlej chanurl v-.m at the rate of from one to ',\ knots. KINGCOME INLET, at its entrance, is 2 miles wide, but the navigable channel between the Magin islands (lying off the west shore) and Bradley point (the west point of Gregor)' island) is contracted to 1] miles in width. Its termination on the northern * Sec plan of CyprosM Imrbonr, on Admiralty chart, .Vo. 571 ; scnlo. w = (lO inches. Chap. vr4,] kinocomb ihht.— pbnpiikask passage. 289 Hhoru iH a ^>w marshy \Aa\i\, dotted with patches of Hcrnb an feet at low water, lying directly in the fairway betwet-n the two islets. Through these narrows the tidal streams during springs attain a v "locily of f) knots an hour. Passing up Drury inlet, the shores of which have an average height of less than 1,000 feet, at one mile froni Stuart narrows, Leche island is seen lying in mid-channel, and may be i)assed on either sitie ; here the inlet opens out to the southward, t'oruiing Richmond bay, in which are several islets. At a little over one mile westward of Leche island is Ligar island, 150 feet high, having at one cable east of its south point a dangerous sunken rock, uncovering 5 feet at low- water springs. Voak rock, another dangerous rock, awash at low-water spring tides, lies W cables N.N.W. i W. from Ligar island, with deep water between. Sir Everard islands, on the south shore, 1 J. miles westward of Ligar island, form a chain extending in a N.W. direction, with rocks between them, a clear channel lying between them and Hooper island to the northward. Blount rock, 8 feet above high water, lies closer to the south shoie half a mile to the westward of Sir Kverard islands. Sir chart. No. r>H|. A>;, Chap. VII.] DRURY INLBT.— fiRAPPLRR SOITXD. 291 JenniS bay, on the north sliore, abreast the Sir Kverard iwlaiids, wouM afford aiichoraj^'e for a small vessel ; when onteriii',', pass east- ward of Hooper island lying at the entrance, and aiidior in the centre of the bay in 7 to 10 fathoms. Centre rock, a dangerous sunki-n njcic, uncovtiring (S feet at low- watt r springs, lies in the niiddhi of Dniry iniet 1 ,',, miles West of the northern of the Sir Kverard islands ; it is stet![)-to around, and vessels will clear it l)y keeping at 2 cables from either shore. Muirhead islands. — At 2\ miles westward of ('entre rock, the inlet l)ecomes studded with small islands, having deep channels betv,',;"' them, and extending ovc-r a distance of 2 miles. The easternmost of these is Wilson island, 120 feet higii ; Keitli island, also I'iO feet high, lii'S :2 cables westward of it, and the Muirhead islands, three in number, extending one mile iu an east and west direction, are situated one cal)ie westward of the latter. The west Muirhead island is the largest and 2^)5 fet^t high. Between this grouj) and tlie south shore the space is occu[tied I)y nunu'ruus small islands, but tln^e is a clear channel along tlu' nortii side of the group ; westward of these, however, the water slnjals rapidly, there being only 2 to ;5 fathoms in Sutherlantl bay at the head of Drury iidet. A densely woodt'd valley extends across the peninsula in a south-west direction to the outer c(nist of Queen Charlotte sound. Actseon sound, which branehrs off from the uoitii side of Drury inlet abreast the west Muirhea'l island, is so blocked at its entrance by islets and rocks as to render it only available to l)oats. GRAPPLER SOUND.— West <.f l^atrick passage between Kinnaird island and Pandora head, is the entrance to another inlet which continues in a northerly direction for four miles, and is known a^ Grappler sound. From it several smaller bights l)rancli oit un botu sides, tliose on the east commmiicating w jlli liopetown and Kenneth passages, north and south of Watson island. The depths in the s<»und range from 20 to iiO fathoms, Init are shoaler in Claydon and Carriden bays on the west shore. At the entrance to the former a reef Mes nearly in mid-channel, aud a reef also e.vtenrls i), cables from Linlithgow point, on tjie north shore of the entrance to the latter. .Sf'e chart, No. 5.>l. SO 11048 Ti 292 QUEEN CHARLOTTE SOUND. [Chap. VII. Bucking-ham, Haramersley, and Hanbury islands Uo on tlu' iioiili sidf of Kinnainl island lit the entrance to Hopetown passage, the iirst being the hirgest and l$()() feet high. Dunsany passage, heading from Grappler sound to the entrance to IIopetowM passage and south-eastward into Suth-j channel, east of Kinnaird island, is apparently clear of dangers, with the exception of a reef, which covers at high water springs, lying off the north shore at the entrance to Hopetown passage. Hopetown passagre can only be used by boats, which can pass the barrier of rocks (that extend right across the i)a9sage at li| miles from the entrance) at high water, and can thence proceed into Mackenzie soiind. Kennethi passag-e, leading from the head of Grappler sound round the nortli side of >Vatson island, is 15^ miles long, and com- municates with Mackenzie sound at its junction with Hopetown l)assage. About one mile from its entrance (which is only a little over one cable broad) from Grapp.jr sound it widens considerably, ? bight, named Turnbull cove, extending one mile in a W.N.W, direction ; but half a mile further eastward the passage contracts to ?) cables between Alexander and Tessie ])oints, and thence several islands, islets and rocks obstruct the passage, rendering its naviga- tion dangerous. Mackenzie sound, from the east point of Watson island, extends \\ miles K.N.M, gnidiially narrowing towards its head at the foot of nionnt Stephens {."),t)(i5 feet high), where it becomes a mere chasm, and shoaling in the same direction from 25 to lU fathoms. BOYLES POINT, the western entrance point of Wells pass and the southern point of the peninsula formed by Drury inlet, has three small islets lying close off it, thj outer of which is only 4 feet above high water. Over and on each side of the point are undulating hills of about .")00 feet high, rising gradually inland to mount Wynyard (about 1,200 feet high). lV)yles point is situated iu latitude ."iO' 48' oO' N., longitude 127= r 40" W. Lewis rocks, a small cluster, 4 feet to JiO feet above high water, lie one mile W.S.W. from liuyles point, with rijcks awash and foul ground extending 7 cables southward from them. S; chart, No. 581. Chap. VII.] GRAPPLER SOUND.— BLUXDEX HARBOUR. 293 Numas islands, the largest of which is U, inih's long oast and west, lie 4 miles S.S.W. from I^oyles point ; the largest is IM feet high, and off its western extreme is Staples islet, 24- feet high. These form an excellent landmark. liabouchere cliannel, between Numas islands and the Lewis rocks, is over 2 miles wide. The tidal streams run at the rate of from one to '^ knots through this cliannel. Rayner group consists of four or five small islands, 120 to 150 feet high, lying close to the shore eastward of Blunden harbour. The southern edge of the group is fringed with sunken rocks, and they should not be approached in that direction nearer than half a mile. Masses of kelp surround these islands in the season, and skirt the shore towards Blunden harbour. Gillot rock, 2 feet above high water, is tlie easternmost of the dangers lying to the southward of the Rayner group. Black rock, 7 feet above high-water springs, is the westernmost of the dangers in the vicinity of Rayner group. BLUNDEN HARBOUR, on the north shore of Queen Charlotte sound, 12 miles westward of Wells pass, is formed between several iolands. The entrance between Shelf point, the east (extreme of Rol)inson island (120 feet high), and Barren rock, a small rock 12 feet high, i.^ 2.\ cables wide ; but a reef (marked by kelp) extends lil cables South from th^ latter, and another reef extends the same distance E.N.E. from Burgess island (100 feet high), a small island lying close to the shore )H cables S.S.W. from Shelf l)()in^ thus rendering the channel somewhat tortuous.* Anchorag'e may be obtained in 4 fathoms, mud bottom, in the western part of the harbour, at 2 cables S.W. of the southern of the two Bonwick islands, which are joined to the shore and to each other at low water. Directions. — When entering Blunden harl)our, which is only available for vessels of moderate size, bring Shelf point to ))ear N.W. i| N., when it will be just open of Charles point (on the east sliore), and steer in on these marks and keep in mid-channel. Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in Blunden harboiir at noon ; springs rise 10 feet, neaps rise 11. ^j feet. * iSor plan of Bliuulen harbour on Admiralty chart, No. 57' ; scale, w( = (i iuchc". 294 QUEEN CHARLOTTE SOUND. [Chap. VTI. Browning" islands, 2\ miles W.S.W. from the entrance to Blunden harbour, are a small group, the largest being 2| cables long and about 200 feet high. A dangerous rock, which dries 3 feet at low-water springs, lies 3 cables E.S.E. from the east extreme of the largest of the Browning islands ; therefore, give those iciiands a oerth of one mile when passing. Stuart point, 1^ miles W. by N. from the Drowning islands, has some rocky islets off it ; and 3 cables E. h S. from Stuart point, in the centre of a bay between the point and Browning islands, is a patch of 2 fathoms. Leading hill, 570 feet high, is situated close over the coast 1^ miles W. by N. ^ N. from Stuart point. Robertson and Jeanette islands, the latter 100 f(!et high, lie close off the shore under Leading hill. Round island, a little over half a cable in extent, the tops of the trees being 100 " - it altove the water, lies G cables S. by W. from Jeanette island. Millar group consists of a chain of small islands extending over 2 miles W. by N. )j N. and E. by S. ^ S. at 4 cables southward of Round island, between which and the group vessels should not pass. The tops of the trees on the highest island of the group are from 150 to 200 feet above the sea. At 3 cable.s W. by N. h N. from the western island of the grouj) is David rock with 12 feet water on it. Mary rook, a dangerous rock lying vS cables S.E. by E. | E. from the south end of the Millar group, is, however, generally visible, it being awash at high water. When passing through North channel from the soutli -eastward, ai)i)roach it with Round island bearing W. by N., and do not bring the island to bear northward of that bearing until the east end of the Millar group bears W.S.W., when alter course for mid-channel between Round island and Jeanette island. The Deserters islands are a group of islands, islets and rocks, the largest of which is nearly 2 miles in length, lying 1| miles south- ward of the Millar group. The Walker group {see i)age 308) is situated westward of the Deserters, separated from them by Shelter pass. iSee charts, Nos. 581, 582. Ohai). VII.J BROWNING ISLANDS.— noIlTll CHANNEL. 295 RIPPLE PASSAGE, between the Millar group and the Deserters islands, has several dangerous rocks in it, and should there- fore not be used except in an emergency, and then (»nly at low water (when nearly all the dangers show) and with the greatest caution.* Sun rock, the most dangerous of these rocks, owing to its locality and only being apparent during bad weather, when the sea breaks on it, lies 8 cables S.W. ^ W. from the westernmost islet of the Millar group. Twin rocks, 10 feet above high water, are two small rocks lying f) cables north-east of McLeod island. Heavy overfalls are met with northward and westward of the Twins. Richard islet, 25 feet above high water, and bare, lies 7 cables N.E. from the Twins ; it should not be approached within one cable. Barry islet lies one mile S.E. by E. ^ E. from Richard islet ; it is bare, and 45 feet above high water. Echo islets, a small group lying 8 cables South of Barry islet, extend over half a mile N.W. and S.E. At 3 cables off their north- west end is George reef ; it lies three-quarters of a mile S.W. from Barry islet. NORTH CHANNEL into Queen Charlotte sound extends close along the shore of the mainland from Bremner island off Buccleuch point to between Jeanette island and the Millar grouj) (above described), passing between White and Mayor islands on the north, and North rock on the south {see page 309), and at half a mile south- ward of Rogers, Dickenson, and Harris islets ; thence past Bold blull', and midway between Wentworth rock and Wallace islands. To clear North rock, passing northward of it, keep Harris islet just open south of the south extreme of Jeanette island bearing E. by S. i S. Shelter bay trends easterly for nearly 2 miles, forming two bights at its head. The entrance between the Wallace islands and the shore to the northward is 4 cables wide, but the bay is encum- bered with rocks in its most sheltered i)art, and could only b«! made use of as an anchorage by those possessing local knowledge. In a small bay north of Wallace islands there is good landing for boats, and there is also good landing for boats in south-easterly winds, in a bight 15 cables west of the point forming the north-west entrance to Shelter bay. • See Admiralty chart : — Goletas channel to Quatsino sound, No. 582 ; scale, w = 0-6 of ftji inch. 296 QUEEN CHARLOTTE SOUND. [Chap. VII. Annie rocks, IP feet above high water, are bare rocks, lying 3 cables off the coast 1\ miles West of the eutrauce to Shelter bay. WentWOrth rook, 10 feet above high water, lies l^ miles S.W. I W. from the Wallace islands ; it should be given a berth of half a milo in all directions. Southgrate group lies close off the coast .3 miles westward of Shelter bay. Bold bluff, the south-oast island of the group, has rocky l^atches off its east end. The shore of the mainland abreast Bold bluff falls back to the N.N.W. for a distance of G miles, the southern part being skirted by several small off-lying islets and rocks, ex- tending ;') miles westward of chis group, the positions of which are best seen by the chart. Murray labyrintll is the name given to the many channels which lie between a grou}) of several islands, islets, and rocks lying off the south coast of Branham island, 2 miles N.N.W. from the Southgate group, Branham Island, 3^ miles long (east and west) and 2.^ miles broad, lies off the coast of the mainland, and together with the Fox islands forms the southern shore of Slingsby channel. Nina hill, on the south side of the island, is r)00 feet high. Skull cove, indenting the island to the eastward of Nina hill, affords good shelter for boats. Schooner passage, between the east shore of Branham island and the mainland, is - narrow pass having an average width of one cable in a N.N.W. direction for a distance of 2| miles : it is, however, at le 8outh of the south-eastern Lucan islamls. Raglan point, the north-west point of Balaklava island, has a bnlge extending 2\ cables from it ; and half a mile N.W. from the point are the Cardigan rocks, t» feet high, with ('roker rock J.J cables N.E. from them. These rocks are surrounded by kol]). Christie passage, between the west side of the Gordon group and Halaklava island, is half a mile wide ; some shoal patches with from one to 15 +'athoms on them lie Ijj cables from the east shore of Halaklava island, and (I to 7 cables S.K. by 8. from Scarlett point ; between them and the island is George island. The tidal streams run from one to 3 knots through it, the Hood to the southward. If intending to go through this j)assage from Goletas channel, a large vessel should enter it westwar*.! of the Ne-qnarters of a mile wide, anil 2G0 feet high ; west of it are some rocks and small islets extending (I cables off it ; and half a mile from the north point are two wooded islets 70 feet high named Nicolas islands. Willes island, 20S feet high, is at the south-east part of the pawsage clos«! to GuliiUio island ; a quarter of a milt; S.E. of it is a small low islet, named Slave islaml. Centre island, in the middle of the passage, and .5 cal)les S.W. from Vansittart island, is small ; but there is a passage on either side of it ; thai to the westward, however. Is much obstructed by Suwanee rock, which dries 4 feet at low-water spring tides, and lies one cable \V."by S. -J S. from the high-water mark of Centre island, rendering the passage west of that island unsafe. One Tree islet, 4 cables West of Vansittart, is small, about 40 feet high, and has a single tree on its summit, which is very conspicuous when seen from the northward, and of great use in identifying the l^assage; but between it and Vansittart island are rocks and foul ground. Breaker reef, the outer of the dangers extending N.W. from Vansittart island, lies half a mile N. by W. ^ W. from One Tree islet. Turn point lies 2 miles N.f]. of Heath point about midway between it and cape James ; it is backed by a hill lUK) feet high. Cape James, the north west extreme of Shadwell passage, 2 miles N.N.W. from Turn point, is a rocky bluff '.tO feet high ; some rocks extend off it to the southward for a short distance. The capo should at all times be given a berth of at least half a mile. Tidal streams. —The tlooil stream runs to the southward tlirough Shadwell passage at the rati' of about 4i knots, whiNt the ebb, in the northern part, sets 2 knots in the contrary direction ; southward of Centre island, however, it runsasenong as the flood. Tide rips exist between Centre and Vansittart islands. Bate passagre, eastward of Vansittart island, is deeper, and perha])8 for a sailing-ship or stranger it would be easier to navigate See chart, No. 555. SO 11948 306 QUEEN CHARLOTTK SOUND. [Chap. VTT. ! ; than Shadwell passage ; if proceeding through it, keep in miil- channal. Commanders of vessels that do not steer well iire recom- mended to use Rate paaiage instead of Shad well passage. Hope island, the we. ^mmoat of the group which forms the north side of Goletas chaimel, is (5 miles long, east and west, and its greatest breadth is 3| miles ; the sea breaks heavily along its north and west sides, and off Mexicana point (the western extreme) a reef extends 3 cables. BULL HARBOUR is on the south side of Hope island, 2 mih-s from the western entrance of Goletas channel. Though small, iliis harbour affords a very secure landlocked anchorage. It runs northerly for l.\ miles.* Indian island, 1^ cablet' North of the narrowest part of the entrance, is small, but completely shuts in the harbdur, leaving a passage to it on the eastern side one cable wide ; between the island and ilie west shore there is only a deptli of II feet. To enter Bull harbour, stt-er nj) in mid-chaimel, jniss East of Indian island, and moor immediately the vessel is imrthward of it, anchors north and south. Only steamers or small sailing-vessels shouUl use this anchorage. There is only room for one or two vessels of moderate size to lie moored. Tides. — 't is high water, at full and change, in Dull harbour at Oh. ;JOm. ; springs rise Vih feet. NAHWHITTI BAR, or ledge, stretching across the west entrance of the Goletas channel, is of sandstone formation, and on the eastern edge rises suddenly from 40 to 9 fathoms, the depth increasing very gradually to the westward. Its breadth within the lO-fathoms line is from one to nearly .'{ miles, it being broadest at the .south part, where are several sijoal spots. On tiio western i'ih^i' of the bar the tidal streams run from 2 toy knots. In heuvy westerly gsiles the sea breaks across the Goletas ciiainicl at this bar. Tatnall reefs, with 2^^ and .'U fathoms on tliem, li»' en *he b;ir I] miles from thi* south shoi-e : ntirthward of thege jratehes the depths vary from (! lo '.) fathoms Directions. — IJonnd westward through Goletas channel, steer in mid-ehannel, or within half a mile of either shore, until west of Bull I 1 Sir plan of Bull harbour on Admtnilty chart, No. 2,007 ; Kcule, vi —■■ '\ iuches. Chap. VII.] OOLETAS CHANNEL.— NEW CHANNEL. 307 harbour, after which keep Roxor point open of Lemon i)oint bearinj? K, f X., until Mi'xifuna point boars N. by K.. when a vessel will be V eatward of the Naliwhitti bar. Tn a sailincr-ship beating tlirouf?h the channel, keep south of Duncan and Noble islands ; elsewhere, until west of Hull harbour, the shores on both sides may be ai)i)ro,u'heil to witliin atjuarter of a mile ; when standing' southward, wes. of Hull harbour, tack when Shinfj;le and Lemon points are in line bearintr K. by N., and do not ap])roach nearer than half a mile towards Mexicana point, as there is generally a heavy swell setting in on it, and the ground is uneven. When crossing the bar in the deepest water, if the weather be clear, mount liemon, a high conical peak, should appear nearly midway between Shingle point and Heath point on the opposite shore, or nothing to the southward of midway between them. If obliged t(t anchor for the night, or tide, Shushartie bay, though small, is easy of access, the only danger being Dillon rock of! its east point {srr |)age 'MYl). Port Alexandi-r and Shadwell passage, along the M(»rth short", arc also, with a fair wind, easy of acci'ss to sailing- vessels, and the latter is preferable, tx'ing more roomy with better hiiiding ground. NEW CHANNEL, northward of (Joletas chaiuiel, is alxuit V2}i miles long, anil has a breauth varying from U to 1 miles. (Jenerally, a heavy swell sets through New channel from the west- ward, and, with the exception that there is more room for a large vt'iiisel to work in or out than in Goletas channel, thiTe is no reason to use it in prefennce to the ' tier, unless, if running in before a hi^avy westerly gale, the sea w«n' breaUing acntss the west entrance of Goletas channel at the Nahwhiiti l»ar. 'I Crane Islets are 'M) fi-et high, and steep-to, there being i (H) fathoms one cable distant. They lie ii^ miles westward of Doyle island, and about ;i cables north of (lordon group. Hoyle island. 1 1 milts west from Crane islets, and half a mile North of llurs .-.land (^(iordon group), is small. Grey rock, which covers at a (juarter flood, lies half a niih' N.W. from Hoyle islait:', and is dangerous to vessels beating through this che-'nel. The best mark to clear this rock is to keep the Crane ish ts just touching the nt>rth side of Gordon group bearing K. by H. l S., which leads nearly half a mile North of it. .5iir ohartH, Nob. '>'»'>, 582. SO 1194.S U2 308 QUEEN CHARLOTTE SOUND. [Chap. VII. Walker group is composed of several small islets and rocks covering an extent of tJ miles in a westerly direction, and 2 miles broad ; the hif^hest and western (Kent island) is about '620 "feet above the sea. There are several small creeks and bights, which would afford shelter to boats, or even small craft ; along their south side some rocks extend a short distance off. White rock lies 2 miles W.S.W. from Castle point ; it is 4 feet above high water. Between White rock and Boyle island a strong ti'.le race usually prevails. Jiagged reef, a cluster of rocks 4 feet high and 4 cables in extent, lies (5 cables northward of the west end of Kent island. Nye rock, off the soutli end of Schooner passage, at the Avest part of the grouj), c(tvers at high water ; it lies 2] miles W. i N. from White rock : large vessi'ls should not stand inside it to the northward. Redfern island, the south-western of Walker group, is about half a mile long, and a quarter of a mile wide ; half a mile south-east of it are some rocks just above high water, as also to the north-west ; its south side should not be approached wiihin 2 cables. IVosser rock, 2 miles W. by N. ;| N. from Hedfern island, is small, about 2 feet above high water. Bright islet is 100 feet high ; half a mile N.E. by N. from it lies a reef which covers at high water, and one mile E. by N. i N. lies Herbert island, with a reef lying between. Pine island, at the north-west part of New channel, about one mile in circumference, bold, wooded, and al)out 2r)0 feet high, is conspicuous from th(^ westward. Tree islets, some small islets, which are also wooded, lie half a mile N.E. from Pine island. STORM ISLANDS, in the centre of Queen Charlotte sound, 2Jr miles northward of Pine island, are a narrow chain of islets extentling 2 miles east and west, and form a most useful land-mark when crossing Queen (^liarlofte sound. The tops of the tre«'S are about l.')0 to 200 feet above liigh water. An Indian fishing village is situated on one of the grouj), near the east end. Reid ishuul the ea.sternmost of the Storm islands, on the noi-th side of Sealed pa.ssage, is about ;5(H) yiirds long E.N.E. and W.S.W., and 150 yanls broad, having a rock abov^ water half a cable off its west end. Naiad islet See charts, Nos. 556, 582. Chap. VII,] WALKKR (JROUr.— CAPE SCOTt. 309 ire is h(' lil, is bare unci 4S feet high ; it lies half u mile N.E. i N. from Ut'iil island. Sunken rock, on which the sea breaks in bad weather, lies about 5 miles N.E. of Shadwell passjige ; from the centre of the rock, Hrij,'ht island bjars S.E. by E., distant Iv^ miles, and Pine island, West Ih miles. Se?.''Gd. passage, ") miles northward of Shadwell passage, between I'ine island and the lUorm islands, is about '21, miles wide. This passage should not be attempted. Blind reef, on which the sea breaks in heavy weather, e.vtends nearly across Sealed i)assage, and closes it to navigation ; close to the western edge of Blind reef there are 17 to 10 fathoms, rocky bottom. South rock, awash at low water, lies almut 1;{ miles north-eastward from Blind reef; from the centre of this rock, I'ine island bears S.W. by S., distant .'5] miles nearly. Middle rock, on which the sea nearlj' always breaks, is covered at three-cjuarters flood, anil lies one mile N. by W. from South rock. North rock, on which the sea nearly always breaks, is awash at high water, and lies three-quarters of a mile N.E. from Middle rock. The COAST from cape Commerell (page 1502), the north-west point of Vancouver island, takes a south-west direction for Iti miles to cape Scott. It is rather low, but rises at a distance inland to hills