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Maps, plates, charts, etc.. may be filmed at different reduction retios. Those too large to be entirely included in one exposure are filmed beginning in the upper left hend corner, left to right and top to bottom, as many frames as required. The following diagrams illustrate the method: Les cartes, planches, tableaux, etc.. peuvent dtre fiim^s A des taux de reduction diffirents. Lorsque le document est trop grand pour dtre reproduit en un seul clichi, il est film^ it partir de I'angle sup6rieur gauche, de gauche A drolte, et de haut en bas, en prenant le nombre d'imeges n^cessaire. Les diagrammes suivants iilustrcnt la methods. 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 S 6 I I THE BRITISH COLUMBIA PILOT, s/:r()\n r:/uT/ux, IXC LU DING THE COAST OF 151UTISH ('()LI\M1MA FUOM -lUAX DE FUCA STHAIT To roiM'LAXD ('ANAL, ■|'()(;kthki{ with VAN<'ULVEI{ AND <,)UEEX (MAULUTTE INLANDS. OOMI'ILKlt FIIOM ADMIRALTY SURVEYS. prBUSHEll BY OUnF.n OF THK I.OKDS fOMMISSIONFRS OK TIIK VDMIRALTY. LONDON: PIIINTED FOR THK II VI)RO(i RAPHIC OFIMCK. ADMIRALTY; AXl) ^01.1) MY J, D. POTTER, AOKNT for THK SALF of ADMIRALp^'-^i^RTS, ,'il, POULTRY, AND IL KIN(i STRKKT, TONV^ .^^- %. LS98. '^ f>ri<T Firt' S/n/litufs 'DhI Si.r/irnrc. \^ '''''//^> \\ CO acl isi Uc •<\h hi Hi be do Ui Isl SOI D. an( (lei D. Qu( G. Car visi of Pil( A D \ !•: K T I S !•: .M K N T TO THK BIUTISII (COLUMBIA PILOT, Seroiid Kditioii, lSi,)8. The British ('oluiiibia Pilot coutninis Sailing- Din'ctions for tho coast from Juan dt- Fiica strait to Portland canal ; with the adjacnt Inner channels ; also Vanootiver and Queen Charlotte islands. The information relatinif to the coast from the entrance to Juan dc Fuca strait, and Haro and liosario straits, to Bute inlet, as also to Vancouver island and adjacent channels, was obtained from the journals and surveys conducted l)y Captain G. H. iiichards, K.X., in H.M. Surveying Vessels P/u»ijier and Hecate, between the years 1^57 and ltSG"2. This, to^'ether with a descrip- tion of the included shores of Washington territory, derived from United States (iroveinnient Surveys, was published as the Vancouver Island Pilot, in iSt'.J. The coast of the mainlantl from Bute inlet to Queen Charlotte sound is chiefly derived from the Admiralty survey in charge of D. Pender, Master R.N., l,SG3-t)5. The directions for the coast between Queen Charlotte sound and Portland canal, with the adjacent Inner channels, are chielly derived from the Admiralty survey conducted by Staff ('ommander D. Pender, li.N., during the years ISllo-TO. The di-scription of Queen Charlotte islaiuls is compiU'd chiefly from the report by G. M. Dawson, Esq., F.G.S., published by the Government of Canada, 1S80, to which is added information derived from a visit of H.M.S. Virago in IS53, and from the Admiralty Survey of 1866. These were originally i)ublished as the Vancouver Island Pilot Supplement, in 188:5. SO 11948— 1000—8/96 Wt 'Jltifi D&S TT u In 1S(S8, tlu! al)()V(vnit'iiti()iictl, vi/., VaiR'ouvfr lblan<l I'ilot, IMdl, and the Vancouvor Irihuul Tilut SuppLnR'nt, LSS'i, were embodied and published as the British Cohinibia Pilot, having been prepared by Stall' Commander F. W. Jarrad and Captain W. II. Sharp, K.N. In the ])re8ent (Second) edition of the liritish Columbia Pilot, the most recent information derived from the Uemark books of oflicers of Her .Majes^^y's ships, the (Jovernment of Cana(hi, Mr. Walbran, conuuaiiding the Dominion (iovernment steam-vessels, Z)^///(/('ve and Qitddrit, and from other sources, including the Coast of British Columbia with Puget sound, 1891, also the Pacific Coast Pilot, Alaska, Part 1., 1S')1, published by the United States (Iovernment, has also been embodied. This Second Edition has been prepared by Stall Captain W. H. Petley, R.N., of the Hydrograjthic Departujent, Admiralty. Notices of errors or omissions in this work, as well as any new information of interest to the navigator, should be transmitted to the Secretary of the Admiralty. By the pul)lication of this work, the former Edition and Supple- ments to British Columbia Pilot, ISSS ; alsi> all Hydrographic Notices relating to them and all Notices to Mariners, inclusive of No. '.\2'6 <if IH'.tS, are cancelled. W. J. L. W. Hj'drographic OlHce. \dmiralty, London. July 18'.t8. Hi CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. General remarks ; winds ; currents ; climate ; meteorology ; products ; passuges Page. 1-23 CHAPTER II. Juan d«i Fuca and Hare ntraits ; Admiralty inlet ; Puget sound ; Esquimalt harbour ; Victoria harbour ; Inner obannela ; Directions ... ... 24-10.5 CHAPTER III. The Western channe's and islands to GabrioU pass ... 1 ur. 186 CH.vrrKR IV. .Middle channel ; Lopez sound : <J'-cas East and West sounds i;i7-15« CHAPTER V. Rosario strait and shores of Georgia strait 157-193 CHAPTER VI. Georgia strait, from Nanaimo harbour and Burrard inlet, to cape Mudge and Bute inlet ... 1!)4 244 CHAPTER VIL From Georgia tjtrait westward to cape Scott and the Scott islands ... 24o-;ill CHAPTER VIII. West coast of Vancouver island, from Juan de Fuca strait to Sydney inlet... 312-342 T?" IV (JONTENTS. rilAPTRR IX. Woat coast of Vancouver inland, from Clayoiiuot sounil to cape Scott fafjo. ... ;m:<-8ks CHAPTER X. Coast of Hritish Cohunbiu (Inner channoly) : (^ueen Charlotte sound to Scat'orth channel ... ... ... .. ... ... iiM) II.' CHAPTER XI. Inner channels, Milbank sound to Chathana sound ... I Hi ll> CHAPTER XT I. Chatham sound, Edye and Brown passages, and Dixou entrance 4Hi 17S CHAPTER XIII. Laredo sound to Opdun channel 17'J 4!t CHAPTER XIV Outer coast ; cape Calvert to Ogden channel CHAPTER XV. Portland and Observatory inlets and Portland canal 4itl-503 o04-,515 CHAPTER XVI. <iueen Charlotte islands Meteorological tables ; Esquimalt ; Victoria ; New Westminster Index List of Admiralty Sailing Directions, ifee. ,, ., Agents for sale of Charts .■">l(i-.-.l'.t 5.53-.598 ,599-606 605-606 SYSTEM OF ORTHOGRAPHY. Adopted by the Admindti/ for Hoilin;/ Dirrrtlo^iis and Cho.rt.^. As far as Ims hoon fotuul possible with oxistiiij; knowlcdizo, iiniivc names are spelt in at'conlnnce witli the f()lln\viii<r system, wliich li;is Im'lii adopted hy the prineipal autlioii(ic.« in CJiViit Britain and by ihe L'nited States, and hns i)een 'or some yrars in precis-* of gradiud iiitroducticn into all Admiralty Sailing Direetioiis and Charts. No change is made in the orthonfraphy of fbrei,i,ni names in countries which nse Roman letters; thus French, Spanish, Portuguese, Dutch, Sec. nataes will be spelt as by the respective nations. 1. Where native names have licon so long written in a foi'ni which, though not in accordance with this system, has become fainiliar to English eyes from being so spelt in all charts and maps, they are retained. 2. The true sound of the v/ord as locally pronounced is taken as tlu; basis of the spelling. 3. An approximation of the sound is alone aimed at. A system wliieh would attempt to represent the more delicate inflections of sound ami accent Avould be so complicated as cnly to defeat itself. 4. The broad features of the .system adopted are that vowels ar(> pronounced as in Italian and consonants as in English, every letter Immj pronounced. Two accents only are used : — (i.) The acute, to denote the syllable on which stress is laid. The use of this is very important, as the rounds of many names are entirely altered by the misplacement of this '* stress." (2.) The sign ^ over the letter U to denote the short sound of (hat vowel under certain circumstances. (See table.) 5. When two vowels come togethei-, each one is sounded, though the result, when spoken quickly, is .sometimes scarcely to be <Iislin<Tuislud from a single sound, as in ai, an, ei. The amplification of the rules is given on the following pa^^es. Information is invited as to the proper spelling of native name,«, so as to produce the neaiest approximation to the true sound, by this system. X I7li74— 1. .')00.— 6'01. \Vt tiil78, ^ ^ ^■l 1 ctters. a e o u rronimi'iuliou and llcmuikx. ah, a us \\\ fiithvr eh, c ns in benefit ; a as in jafe Englisli c; I iis in rdv'nic ; the soiuul of ec ; in hect. as in mote - Tlxainples. Juvii, llnnana, Soniiili, lliiri. Tel-L'l.KclMr, OK'loh, Yezo, Lev Ilka, IVru. Tims, not Feejee, but ^ Fiji, Hindi. Tol<}o. Ions u ns in jlnte ; tlic ^onml of oo in haof. 00 or on slionld novel' l)e employed I'or this sound. Thus, not Zooloo or Zonloii, hut Zvihi, Sumatra. The shorter sound ol' the diil'erent vowels, ] Yarra, Avlien necessary to be indicated, can he j Mecea, exi>re?scd by douhliufj; the consonant that IJoTUiy.* i'ollt)ws. The sounds rel'eired to arc as | follows : — The ;-;hort a as in f(i*fer, as eoui[)ared with the long a as \n father. The short e as in better, as compared with the long e as \njafe. Th<' f'lort i u2 in siii/ier, as compared wi.h the long i as in ravine. 'J"l:e short o i\3 in sobbii/f/, as compared Avith the long o as in sof/cr. The short ii as in rubber, as compared with the long n !iS in riibrir. is the same short sound of h as is denotc<l by doubling the consonant Ibllowing, but is used, and only used, where such doubling is impossible, as in case of words where n is followed by two difF( rent consonants, as in Tiiug, pronounced u« the Engli.«li f,onr/i(e. Tanna, Jidda, Doubling of a vowel is only necessary where there is a distinct repetition of the single sound. Nuuliia, Oosima. ai JIU ao aw English / as in ice - ... _ ! Shanghai. i ov: as in hair. Thus, not Foocliow, but Fuchau. is slightly diilerent from an - - - Macao. when followed by a consonant or at the end of j a word, as in faw - - thus 1 Cawnpore. * The !/ is rotainctl as a terminal ia this word under rule 1. The word is given as a familiar example of the alteration in sound caused hy the second consonant. «■ Ml vii Letters. 01 cll (1 f g h hw J k kh gli 1 in n ng P ph til q PrDnuMciiition and RomarkH. Examples. id the sound of tlio two Ttaliuii vowels, l)iit Is | Hciri'it, Bcilul. froqucntly ,liirn>(l ovt-r, wlicii it is som-cely to 1)0 distin^'uishccl I'roin ei/ in tlio Knglish the}/, or ci in cif/lif. Engli.sh h. is iilways soft, hut is .so nearly tho sound of a | Coluhes. that it should bo seldom iisod. It' Cclclx's were not already recognised it would lie written Sch'bcs. is nlwftys soft, as in r/wrr// - - - 1 Chingeliin. English (I. English /. Ph should not bo used Tor the sound of/. Thus, not Ilaiphon;/, but is always hard. (Soft </ is given by,/) is always pronounced when used. ITaifong, N'at'a. Galapagos. us in iL-hat, iiettor rendered by hw than i Hwai\g ho, «7/, or / ioUowed by a vowel. Thus, IIwO' ho, not Whatig hn or Uoamj ho. English /. J'i L*hould never bo put for this sound. English li. It .should always be put for the hard c. Thus, not Corca, btii The Oriental etnttural Nsran hwei. Japan, Tinchucn. is another guttural, as in the Turkish • As in English. has two separate sounds, the one hard as in the English word finger, the other as in singer. As these two sounds are rarely employed in the same locality, no attempt is made to distinguish between them. As in English. As in loophole - . - . Korea. Khan. Dagh, Ghazi. jMokpho, Cliemulpho. Stands both for its sound in thing, and as in this. The former is most common - - Bethlehem, should never be employed; the sound of ! ;Kwangtung. qu in quiver is given as hw. When qu j has the sound of h, as in quoit, it should bo given by h. I b 2 VUl Letters. Pronunciatiou aud Remarks. Examples. r As in English. s As in sin. Sll t -\ V >.As in English. w J Sawakin. y is always a consonant, as in yard, and there- fore should never be used as a terminal, i or e being substituted. Kikuyu. Thus, not Mikifiddiii/ or Wady, but Mikindani, Wadi. not Kwaly, but Kwale. 7, English X - Zulu. zb French y, or as s in treasure - Accents should not generally ^o used, but Muzhdaha. where there is a very decided emphatic Tongatabu, syllable or stress which affects the sound Galapagos, of the word, it should be marked by an Palawan, acitie accent. Sarawak. In the case of native names in countries under the dominion of other European powers, in Avhose maps, charts, &c. the spelling is given according to the system adopted by that power, such orthography is, as a rule, disregarded, and the names are spelt uecordiug to the British system. Thus the island east of -Java in possession of the Dutch is spelt Madoera by them, but on Admiralty charts Madura. A town in .Java ap})ears on Dutch charts as Tjilatjap ; in the British, Chilachap. ^N ■■ IX INFOEMATIOxV RELATING TO OHARTS, SAILING DIRECTIONS, AND THE GENERAL NAVIGA^ TION OF H.M. SHIPS. ON THE CORRECTION OE CHARTS, LIGHT LISTS, AND SAILING DIRECTIONS. TiiBUE iire three (lescnpt'.on.-> of publications as guidoa to iiiivi<i;utiou — • the charts, the sailing directions, and the light lists— which are all afFiiotcd by the continual changes and alterations that take place. Of these the charts should always be, so far as our knowledge permits, absolutely correct to date ; and the light lists should be noted lor the recent alterations, tliough space will not permit of full details being always inserted; tlie sailing (li>'ections, however, cannot, from their nature, be so corrected, and in all cases where they differ from charts, the charts must be taken as the yuidc. 1. Charts. — When issued to a ship on commissioning, the charts have received all uwoessary corrections to date. As sent from the llydrographic Office thi^ are, as a rule, fresh from the plates. They then receive such corrections by hand in the depots as are rcquirtd, and are so issued to the ships. All small but important corrections that can be made by hand are notided by Notices to Mariners, and should at once be placed on the charts to which they refer. Large corrections that cannot be conveniently thus made are put upon the plates, and fi'csh copi(?s are issued to the ships to repla^io the others, which are directed to bo destroyed to prevent Iho possibility of their being used in the navigation of the ship. GENERAL NAVIGATION. The dates on which these large corrections are made arc noted on the chart plates in the middle of the lower edge; those of the smaller corrections at the left-hand lower corners. In all cases of quotations of charts, these dates of corrections should be given, as well as the number of the chart (which will be found in the lower right-hand corner), in order that at the Admiralty it may be known what edition of the chart is referred to. 2. The L'ujht Lists, annually published at the beginning of each year, are not corrected in tlie depots before issue, but appendices are issued oveiy two months, giving the alterations that have taken place, copies of which are put into the chart boxes. It is the duty of the navigating officer when he receives the .'^^t of charts to make notations in the light lists from these appendices, and from the Notices to Mariners in the box ; and to keep them so corrected from time to time. The Light Lists should always be consulted as to details of a light, as ihe description in the Sailing Directions may be obsolete, in consequence of changes made since publication. 3. The Sailing Directions are not corrected before issue, except occasionally for very important new rocks or dangers. Hydrographic Notices and Supplements referring to each volume are published from time to time. Supplements contain all the information received up to date since the publication of the volume to which they refer, and cancel all previous Hydrographic Notices. Hydrographic Notices contain rdl information up to date since the publication of the volume, or since the last Supplement or Hydrographic Notice, but endeavour is made to issue no more than one of these afiFecting each volume, and, on the collection of fresh information, to include the former Notice in a Supplement. The existence of Supplements or Hydrogra[)hic Notices is to be noted, in the tabulated form placed for the purpose inside the cover of each volume, in cases when such notations have not been made before issue, and also on receipt of furlhev Notices after commission. GENERAL NAVIGATION. XI Notes should be made in tlio nmrgin of the volume of sailing directions affected, as references to the Supplements or Hydrographic Notices when the latter are printed on both sides. To enable the books to be more conveniently corrected, however, such Supplements and Hydrographic Notices as are of moderate size are now being printed on one side only, and two copies are issued to each ship ; one to cut up, the slips being pasted in at the appropriate place ; the other to retain intact for reference. To make these notations or paste in these slips is one of the early duties of a navigating officer after drawing his box of charts and books, and similar notes are to bo made from Notices to Mariners that may thereafter be received. It must, however, bo tlioioughly understood that sailing directions will never be correct in all details, except up to the date of the last Hydrographic Notice or Supplement, and that, as already stated, when differences exist, the chart, which should be corrected from the most recent information, should be taken as the guide ; for which purpose, for ordinary navigation, they are sulHcient. THE L\SE OF CHARTS AS NAVIGATIONAL AIDS, AND GENERAL RE.AIARKS RELATING TO PRACTICAL NAVIGATION. 1. Accuracy/ of a Chart. — The value of a chart must manifestly depend upon the accuracy of the survey on which it is based, and this becomes more important the larger is the scale of the chart. To csti!iiate this, the date of the survey, Avhich is always given in tlie title, is a good guide. Besides the changes that, in waters where sand or mud prevails, may have taken place since the date of the survey, the earlier surveys were mostly made under circumstances that precluded groat accuracy of detail, and until a plan founilc<l on such a survey is tested, it should be regarded with caution. It may, indeed, be said that, except in well -frequented harbours and their approaches, no surveys yet made ha^-e been so minute in their examination of the bottom as to make it certain that all dangers have been found. The fulness or scantiness of the soundinos is another method of estimating the completeness of a chart. When the soundings arc sparse or unevenly distributed, it may be taken for granted that the survey was not in great detail. Xll GENERAL NAVIGATION. Eiank spaces aiiioug sonmlings meiin that no soundiugs have been obtiiiiiccl in tht'se .s[)ota. Wlieu tho surrounding soundiugs are deep it may with fail iicss be assumed tliat iu the blanks tlie water is also deep ; but when they are shallow, or it can be seen from tho rest of the chart that reefs or banks are present, such blanks should be regarded with suspicion. This is espeeiiiUy llie case in coral regions and off rocky coasts, and it .shoulil be rcnieuibered that iu waters where rocks abouiul it is al-vays [)0ssible that a surveys however complete and detailed, may have failed to find every small patch. A wide b3rth should therefore be given to eyery rocky shore or patch, and tbts rale shoald be invariably followed, viz., that instead of considering a coast to be clear unless it is shown to be foul, the contrary should be as:.^uxned. 2. Fathom Lines a Crt//^/o«.— Except in plans of harbours that have been surveyed in detail, the iive-fathoin lino on most Admiralty charts is to be considered as a caution or danger line against unnecessarily approaching the shore or bank wtlhiu that line, on acconnt of the possibility of the existence of undiscovered inequalities of the bottom, which nothing but an elaborate detailed survey could reveal. In general surveys of coasts or of little freiiuented anchorages, tho necessities of navigation do nut de.n ind t!ie great expenditure of time required for such a detailed survey. It is not contemplated that, ships will approach the shores in ^uch localities without taking special precautions. The ten-fathom line is, on rocky shores, another warning, especially for ships of heavy draught. Charts where no fathom lines are marked must be especi; v regarded Avith caution, as it gcucrally means that soundings were too scanty and the bottom too uneven to enable them to be drawn with accuracy. Isolated soundings, ahoaler than surroumling depths, should always be avoided, especially if ringed round, as there is no knowing how closely the spot may have been examined. 3. Chart on largest scale always to he used. —It sometimes happens that, from press of work, oidy the coi)per plate of the larger scale chart of a particular locality can at once receive any extensive re-arrangement of coastline or soundings. This is an additional reason, besides the obvious one of the greater detail shown on a larger scale chart, why this largest scale chart should always be used for navigating. GENEUAL NAVIGATION, xin 4. Caution in using small Scale Charts. — In approaching the land or (lansjofons haukH, rcg iril must always be had to the scale of the chart used. A small error in laying down a position means only yards on a large scale ch:irt, wiiereas on a small scale the same amount of displace- ment means large tractions of a mile. This is particularly to be observed when coming to an anchor on a narrow ledge of convenient depth at some distance from the shore. . For the same reason bearings to objects near should be used in pre- ference to objects farther off, although the latter may be more prominent, as a small error in bearing or in laying it down on the chart has a greater effect in misplacing tlie position the longer the line to be drawn. • 5. Distortion of Printed Charts. — The paper on which charts are printed has to be damped. On drying di^lortlon takes place from the inequalities in the paper, which greatly varies with ditFerent paper and the amount of the original damping ; but it does not affect navigation. It must not, however, be expected that accurate series of angles taken to different points will always exactly agree, when carefully plotted upon the jhart, especially if t!ie lines to objects be long. The larger the chart the greater the amount of this distortion. 6. Buoys, — It is manifestly impossible that any reliance can be placed on buoys always ra;untaining their exact position. Buoys should there- fore be legarded as warnings and not as infallible navigating n>arks, esp"cially when in exposed positions ; and a ship should always, when possible, be navigated by bearings or angles of fixed objects on shore and not by buoys. Gas Buoys. — The lights shown by gas buoys cannot be implicitly I'elied on, as if occulting the apparatus may get out of order, or the light may be altogether extinguished. 7. Lights. — Circles drawn on charts round a light are not intended to give information as to the distance at which it can be seen, but solely indicate, in the case of lights whicli do not show equally in all directions, the bearings between which the variation, or visibility, or obscuration of the light occurs. All the distances given in the Light Lists and on the charts for the visibility of lights are calculated for a height of an observer's eye of 15 feet. The table of distances visible due to height at end of each Light List, affords a means of ascertaining how much more or less the light is visible should the heiglit of the bridge be more or less. The glare of a powerful light is often seen far beyond the limit of visibility of the actual rays of the light, but this must aot be confounded with the true range. Again, mm XIV GENERAL NAVIGATION. refraction may often cause a light to be seen farther tlmu under ordinary circumstances. When looking out for a light at night, the fact is often forgotten that from aloft the range of vision is inut'h increased. By noting a star imme- diately over the light a very correct bearing may bo afterwards obtained from the standard compass. * The intrinsic power of a light should always bo considered when expecting to make it in thick weather. A weak light is easily obscured by haze, and no dependence can be placed on its being seen. The power of a light can be estimated by remarking its order, us given in the Light Lists, and in some cases by noting how much its visibility in clear weather falls short of the range due to the height at which it is placed. Thus, a light standing 200 feet above the sea, and only recorded as visible at 10 miles in clear weather, is manifestly of little brilliancy, as its height would permit it to be seen over 20 miles, if of any power. (See table in Light List above mentioned.) 8. J^og Siffuals. — Sound is conveyed in a very capricious way through the atmosphere. Ajiart from wind, large areas of silence have been found in difEerent directions and at different distances from the origin of a sound, even in clear weather. Therefore too much confidence should not be felt in hearing a fog signal. The apparatus, moreover, for sounding the signal often requires some time before it is in readiness to act. A fog often 'creeps imperceptibly towards the land, and is not observed by the people at a lighthouse until it is upon them ; whereas a ship may have been for many hours in it, and approaching the land. In such a case no signal may be sounded. When sound has to travel against the wind, it may bo thrown upwai'ds ; in such a case, a man aloft might hear it when it is inaudible on deck. Taken tsogether, these facts should induce the utmost caution in closinjr the land in fogs. The load is generally tlo only safe guide. 9. Tides and Tidal Strcamn. — In navigating coasts where the tidal range is considerable, caution is always necessary. It should be remem- bered that there are indraughts to all bays and bight.", although the gon( al run of the stream may be parallel to the shore. The turn of the tidal stream off shore is seldom coincident with the time of high and low water on the shore. In open channels, the tidal stream ordinarily overruns the turn of the vertical movement of tha tide by three hours, forming wl>at is usually known as tide and half-tide, the effect of X GENERAL NAVIGATION. XV which is that at high and low water by the shore the stream is running at its greatest velocity. In crossing a bar or sluiUow flats, the table (B) at page 98 of the Tide Taldes will bo found of great assistance in calculating how much the water has risen or fallen at any hour of the tide. On coasts where there is much diurnal inetiuality in the tides, the amount of rise and fall can never be depended upon, and additional caution is necessary. It should also be remeud)ered that at times the tide falls below the level of low-water ordinary springs. This always occurs on the coasts of Euroi)e at the equinoxes, but in other parts of the world, and especially in the tropics, such periodic low tides may coincide more frequently with the solstices. Wind or a high barometer may produce it at any time, and the amount varies with locality. When the moon's perigee coincides with the full or new moon the same effect is often produced. 10. Current Arrows on charts only show the most usual or the mean direction of a tidal stream or current. It must never be assumed that the direction of a stream v.ill not vary from that indicated by the arrow. In the same manner, the rate of a stream constantly variea with circumstances, and the rate given on the eliart is merely tlie mean of those found during the survey, possibly from very few observations. 11. Fixing Position. — The most accurate method of fixing a position relative to the shore is by angles between well-defined objects on the chart. A.11 ships are now being supplied with a station-pointer, and this method should be used whenever possible. Two things are, however, necessary to its successful employment. First, that the objects be well chosen ; and second, that the observer is skilful and rapid in his use of the sextant. For the former, reference can be had to the pamphlet on the use of the station-pointer, which is in every chart box. The latter is only to be obtained by practice. It will readily be seen that in war time, when the compass may be knocked away, or rifle-fire may make it undesirable to expos^ the person more than necessary, a sextant offers great advantages, as angles can be obtained from any positioti whence the objects are visible. It is this contingency that makes it especially desirable that all navigating officers should become expert in this method of fixing a ship's position. XVI GENEUAJ. NAVIGATION. In luiiny iiiurow watei's also, where the objects may yet be lit Home distance, as in coral harbours or narrow passages among mud bunks, navigation by sextant and 8tation-i)oiuter is invaluable, as a true position can only be obtained by its means. A small error in either taking or plotting a bearing under such circii instances may put the sliip ashore. It is not intended that the use ol' the compass to fix the ship should be given up ; there are many circumstances in which it maybe usefully employed, but errors more readily creep into a position so fixed. In all cases whore great accuracy of position is desired, angles should invariably be used, such as the fixing of a rock or shoal, or of additions to a chart, as fresh soundings or new buildings. In all such cases angles should be taken to several objects, the more the bettor ; but five objects is a "-ooil number, as the four angles thus obtained not only prevent any errors, but they at once furnish a means of checking the accuracy of the chart itself. In the case of ordinary soundings, it is only necessary to take a third angle now and then ; firstly, to check the general accuracy of the chart as above stated ; secondly, to make certain that the more important soundings, as at the end of a line, are correctly placed. Sometimes, when only two objects are visible, a compass bearing and sextant angle may be used with advantage. In passing near a point of land, or an island, the method of fixing by doubling the angle on the bow is invaluable. The ordinary form of it, the so-called " four-point bearing," when the bearing is taken four point,^ on the bow, and on the beam, the distance from the object at the latter position being the distance run between the times of taking the two bearings, gives an excellent fix for a departure, but does not en?nrc safety, as the point, and probably the rocks off it, are abeam before the position is obtained. By taking the bearings of two points and four points on the bow, a very good position is obtaineil before the object ia passed ; the distance of the latter at tlie second position being, as before, equal to the distance run in the interval, allowing for current. A table of factors, by which to mulliidy the distance run, to obtain the distance of the object when any number of degrees between the two bearings has been observed, is now supplied in all chart boxes. The use of a danger angle in passing outlying rocks with land behind should also not be forgotten. In employing this method, however, caution is necessary, as should the chart be not accurate, i.e., should the GENERAL NAVIOATTON. XVll objects selected be not quite correctly placed, the angle taken off from it may not serve the purpose. It should not, therefore, bo employed when the !<urvey is old or manifestly imperfect. In fixing by the compass, it must always bo remembered that two bearings only are liable to error. An abs'olute errcr may be made in either bearing observed; errors may be made in applying the deviation; or errors may creep in in laying them on to the chart. For those reasons, a third or check bearing of some other object should bo taken, especially when near the shore or daugera. The coincidence of these three lines will prevent any mistakes. In ships Htill fitted with the Admiralty standard compass, the tripod supplied to hold the lamp will be found of great service in fixing position at night, as by its aid a bearing can be as accurately taken as in daylight. With Thoui.son's compass bearings can also be accurately observed at night. The utility of this in connection with ascertaining the change of bearing cf an approaching ship's light should not be forgot'^'^n. Amongst astronomical methods of fixing a ship's position, attention is drawn to the great utility of Sumner's method. A Sumner line, that is, a line drawn through the position (obtained by an assumed latitude and longitude by chronometer) at right angles to the bearing of the sun as obtained from the azimuth tables, gives at times invaluable information, as the ship must be somewhere on that line provided the chronometer is correct. A deep cast at the .«ame time may often serve to got an approximate position on the line. An early and very accurate position can be also obtained by Sumner's method, by getting longitude by a bright star at daylight whoa the horizon is well visible, and another longitude bv the sun when a few degrees above the horizon, or by observing two or more stars at twilight. The Sumner lines drawn througii the two positions thus obtained will, if the bearing of sun and star differ three points or more, give an excellent result. 12. Change of Variation of the Compass. — The gradual change in the variation must not be forgotten in laying down positions by bearing on charts. The magnetic compasses placed on the charts for the purpose of facilitating plotting become in time slightly in error, and in some cases, such as with small scales, or when the lines are long, the displacement of position from neglect of this change may be of importance. The Com- pasbes are re-engraved vyhen the error amounts to a quarter of a point, xvm GENERAL NAVIGATION. but the chart pUites cnnnot be corrected more frequently from the impossibility of making alterations too often on one spot in n copper plate. The goograpliicnl change in the variation h in some parts of the world sufficiently rapid to need consideration. For instance, in approaching Halifax from Newfoundland the variation changes 10*^ in less than .WO miles. The variation chart should bo consulted on this head. 13. Local Magnetic Disturbance of the Compass on board Ship, — The term " local magnetic disturbance " has reference only to the effects on the compass of magnetic masses external to the ship in which it is placed. Observation shows that disturbance of the compass in a ship afloat is experienced only in a few places on the globe. Magnetic laws do not permit of the supposition that it is the visible land which causes such disturbance, because the effect of a magnetic force diminishes in such rapid proportion ns the distance from it increases that it would require a local centre of magnetic force of an amount absolutely unknown to affect a compass half a mile distant. Such deflections of the compass are due to magnetic minerals in the bed of the sea under the ship, and when the water is shallow, and tlie force strong, the lompass may be temporarily deflected when passing over such a spot, but the area of disturbance will be small, unless there are many centres near together. The law which has hitherto been found to hold good as regards local magnetic disturbance is, that north of the magnetic equator the north end of the compass needle is attracted towards any centre of disturbance j south of the magnetic equator it is repelled. It is very desirable that whenever a ship passes over an area of local magnetic disturbance, the position should be fixed, and the facts reported as far as they can be ascertained. 14. Use of Oil for Modifying the Effect of Brcahing JVaves. — Many experiences of late years have shown that the utility of oil for this purpose is undoubted, and the application simple. The following may serve for the guidance of seamen, whose attention is called to the fact that a very small quantity of oil, skilfully applied, may prevent much damage both to ships (especially the smaller classes) and to boats, by modifying the action of breaking .seas. GENEltAL NAVIGATION. ^^^ Tlio principal facts as to tho use of oil aro as follows :— 1. On froo waves, i.e., waves in deep water, the effect is greatest. 2. In a surf, or waves breaking on a bar, where a mass of liquid is in actual motion in Blmllow water, the effect of tho oil is uncertain ; as nothing? can prevent the larger waves from breaking under such circumstances ; but even hero it is of some service. 3. The heaviest and thickest oils are most effectual. Refined kerosene is of little use ; crude petroleum is serviceable when nothing else is obtainable ; but all animal and vegetable oils, such as waste oil from the engines, have great effect. 4. A small quantity of oil sufRces, if applied in such a manner as to spread to windward. 5. It is useful in a ship or boat, both when running, or lying to, or in wearing, G. No experiences are related of its use when hoisting a boat up in a sea-way at sea, but it is highly probable that much time and injury to Ihe boat would be saved by its ai)plication on such occasions. 7. In cold water, the oil, being thickened by tlu^ lower temperature, and not being able to spread freely, will have its effect much reduced. This will vary with the description of oil used. 8. The best method of application in a ship at sea appears to be : hanging over the side, in such a manner as to be in the water, small canvjis"bag'i, capable of holding from one to two gallons of oil, such bags being pricked with a sail needle to fiicilitute leakage of the oil. The position of these bags should vary with the circumstances. Running before the wind they should be hung on either how—e.ff., from the cathead — and allowed to tow in tho water. With the wind on the quarter the effect seems to be less than in any other position, as the oil goes astern while the waves come up on the quarter. Lying to, the weather bow and another position farther aft seem the best plaees from which to hang the bags, with a sufficient length of line to permit them to draw to windward, while the ship drifts. 9. Crossing a bar with a flood tide, oil poured overboard and allowed to float in ahead of the boat which would follow with a bag towing astern. XX QRNERAL NAVIGATION, would appear to he the best plan. As before remarked, under these circumstunces the effect cannot be so much trusted. On a bar with the ebb tide it would eeera to be useloss to try oil for the purpose of entering. 10. For boarding a wreck, it is recommended to pour oil overboard to windward of her before going alongside. The effect in this ca.se must greatly depend upon the set of the current, and the circumsfances of the depth of water. 11. For a boat riding in bad weather from a sea anchor, it is recommended to fasten the bag to an endless line rove thioiigh a block on the sea unclior, by which means the oil is difFu.sed well abend of the boat, and the bag can be readily hauled on board for refilling if necessary. 1 i • ! ! i IW TBXS WORK IHB BEASXWOS ABB AILXi MAOWBTZC, BXCEPT -VBEBB MARKED AS TBVB. THE »XSTA»rCES ABE EBVBESSEB ZW SEA MZX.BS OF 60 TO A SEOBEE OF KATZTVOB. OMTE CABXiE'S KEXTOTB ZS aSSUMED TO BE BQITAZi TO 100 FATHOMS, OB THE TEXTTB PABT OF A MCI&B. TBE sovflrnzxroB abb bbdvcbzi to kovt utatbb of OBDXM-ABT SBBZITO TZBBS. TBE BEARZirOB OF SBCTOBB OF &ZOHTS ABB OZVEB VBOM SEA-VTABBS OB TOIXrABB TBE IXOBT. 17274. -\-. Od «■; • l4^^ '■1''ifntfllk'tii'H-L -' iMiHilill BTZC, AS or IXi TO 1KB. R OF « VBOM t' li°]3X:.Bria3hColumbicLPaot~ Junt, 1901 INDEX TO ADMIHAI-TY PUHLISHEIJ CHARTS ALLUDED TO IN THIS WORK Thcduyranis show the limits of llit: smalU^ scale c*ara. A number luliunsl apliur thitf :I'. Simpsnn f«« sitows thala,separ:2le.pUvi is fiublislieil with that nun\brr A iftiir and u mtmiier lhii.i;Mnriia H tK2 ' indiiatM ihatapUm isffivenon the rhart nu/niw/wi <«» Ibrdttnils of saxlrs.priixa X^:.wrAibnimlty Catalogue.. Also shown.onChart or I'dciTicJ^P 787. The charts and plajw shiyn. otlOum Index n^rssent those piibiuhtfd. (It tht dnte given, at the foot. Thay ore lutble to alteration and amendment. Enffnn'ed by D<wiet A* C 155° \i THE BRITISH COLUMBIA PILOT. OHAPTER I. GENERA L REMARKS.— WINDS.— CURRENTS.— CLIMATE.— For later information respecting the lights which are described in this work, seamen should consult the Admiralty List of Lights in South America, Western Coast of North America, Pacific Islands, &e.. Part VII. This list is published early in the current year, corrected to the previous 31st December. X (,3)1727 4—4 the reign of Charles II. Products. — British Columbia contains extensive tracts of arable land, and a large auriferous ilistrict. Gold was first discovered on Thompson river in 1858. Wheat, barley, oats, potatoes, peas, vegetables, and fruits flourish in British Columbia. The fisheries are very rich, salmon is abundant, the export of which, chiefly in tins, constitutes one of the principal sources of wealth in the country ; it is also an important part of the food of the Indians. Houlican (Oolachan). a fish some- what resembling the herring, cod, herring, halibut {of enormous size), sardines, anchovy, haddock, and oysters are also found. SO 11948— 1000— 8/96 Wt 9166 D&S A J '\ . ..-.t.. ,■■»» — 121° l6fi? THE BRITISH COLUMBIA PILOT. CHAPTER I. (JENERAL REMARKS.— WINDS. — CURRENTS.— CLIMATE. — METEOROLOGY.— PRODUCTS.— PASSAGES. BRITISH COLUMBIA, a province of the Dominion of Canada, entered the Confederation in 1871. It includes Vancouver island (first constituted a British colony in 1849), also the numerous islands and adjacent mainland of North America lying between Roberts point in Georgia strait, latitude 49° N., and the centre of Portland canal, latitude .54° 40' N. to 5G° N. The average breadth of British Columbia is about 250 miles, and the area, including Vancouver island and Queen Charlotte islands, is roughly estimated at 40G,0OO square miles. The i)opulation by the last official census, 1891, was 98,171), ctmiposed of : Whites, 54,0(31 ; Indians, 35,202 ; Chinese, 8,910. Vancouver island became a Crown colony in 1858, and was united to British Columbia (the mainland colony) as one colony under the name of British Columbia in 1866. Previous to 1858 the island had been for the most part in the hands of the Hudson's Bay Company, who held their lands in the island under a Royal Charter granted in the reign of Charles II. Products. — British Columbia contains extensive tracts of arable land, and a large auriferous district. Gold was first discovered on Thompson river in 1858. Wheat, barley, oats, potatoes, peas, vegetables, and fruits flourish in British Columbia. The fisheries are very rich, salmon is abundant, the export of which, chiefly in tins, constitutes one of the principal sources of wealth in the country ; it is also an important part of the food of the Indians. Houlican (Oolachan). a fish some- what resembling the herring, cod, herring, halibut (of enormous size), sardines, anchovy, haddock, and oysters are also found. SO 11 »48— 1000— 8/96 Wt 9166 D&S A I • 2 RRITIRH COLUMniA. [Chap. 1 The fur trade, which, until the year IHGO was entirely monopolised by the Hudson's Bay Company, is considerable. Amon^' the numerous fur bearing anin.^ls the principal are the sea otter, marten, silver fox, black fox, and red fox. The forests are of great extent, producing valuable timber, of which the Douglas pine (commonly called Oregon pine), white pine, maple, Scotch fir, and cedar are the principal ; the DonghiH pine, yielding spars 100 to 150 feet in length, and 2 feet in diameter, is exported in large cargoes. Besides the above, the yellow cy])res8, poplar, arbor-vita?, yew, oak, arbutus, alder, dog-wood, cherry, crab-apple, willow, and cotton-wood are found. Cattle, horses, sheep, and other farm animals thrive generally in all parts, STANDARD TIME of British Columbia is that of the meridian of 120° West from Greenwich. COAL is found on the mainland and on Vancoiiver island ; the mines at Nanaimo and Departure bay, which yield bituminous coal, being the principal places on the island. Anthracite coal is found in Queen Charlotte islands. Bunker coals can be obtained (to order) at Esquimalt, Victoria, and Vancouver ; also at Seattle, Tacoma, and Portland in Washington territory. In 1890, the output of coal was 894,882 tons, of which 034,273 tons were exported. Aborigrines inhabiting the coast have great skill in the building and management of canoes ; they are a polygamous race, and subsist chiefly by hunting and fishing ; those of southern Columbia are dark, and wear their hair long, while those of the more northern districts are of a clearer tint. The coast Indians live in substantial one-story dwellings of axe-hewn timber, divided into several compartments, of which one is occupied by each family. Inland the houses or wigwams are made of p^'-ins, tent cloths, and mats ; in severe weather they take shelter in imderground houses (circular pits) from 20 to 40 feet in diameter, and 8 or 10 feet deep, covered over with a substantial earthed roof, with a 3-feet circular aperture in the centre, forming the only outlet for the inhabitants and smoke. PILOTS.- • I'here are no regular Pilots for the inner channels. When approaching Juan de Fuca strait, a man competent to take ships to Royal roads or port Townshend can be obtained from the schooners engaged m the seal fishery off the coast, between cape Beale and Clayoquot sound, at from o to 20 miles from the land. Chap. I.] GENKRAfi REMARKS. H d RESCUE STATIONS. — Depots, with provisions and other necessaries for rthip-wreckod mariners, have been established in Juan de Fuca strait, at eape Heah' iif^'hthouse, in ai)proximately lat.48" 47^' N., lonj,'. 12')° IH.y W. ; and (,'arinanah lighthouse, in approximately lat. 48° 3()f N., lonf,'. 124° 4(;i' W. Notice boards have bei-n erected at intervals between cape Beale and port San Juan (about 12 miles eastward of Carmanah lighthouse), giving information, for the use of ship-wrecked mariners, respecting the direction and distance of the nearest lighthouse, and also of the nearest Indian village wliere assistance can be obtained. Cape Beale and Carmanah lighthouses are telegraph and signal stations. DOCKS. — The graving dock at Esquimalt is 450 feet long over all, and 4iW feet on the blocks ; 65 feet wide at the entrance, with a depth of 2().V feet over the sill at liigh water ordinary spring tides. This dock in closed by a caisson which. If necessary, can be placed on the outer side of the outer invert, giving an additional length to the dock of 30 feet. H.M.S. War.y)ite, drawing 2G feet, was docked on 18th July 1891, the depth on the sill that night was 28^ feet. See tides, page 12. The Admiralty have the right of priority of use of the Esquimalt dock. Set' page 79. There is a patent slip at Esquimalt capable of taking up a ship of 2,500 tons ; there is also a patent slip at Victoria. The United States Government dry dock at Port Orchard is 640 feet long over all, 573^ on the blocks, 93§ feet wide at the entrance ; has 30 feet over the sill, and 28^ feet on the blocks. See page 47. In connection with the workshops which are at Tacoma, a floating dock is moored, in 8 fathoms, in Quartermaster harbour on the north side of the channel. The dock, capable of receiving vessels of large tonnage, is 325 feet long, 100 feet broad, and 80 feet between side walls, lifting power 8,000 tons. Repairs can be effected. See page 56. COMMUNICATIONS.— Steamers run daily from Vancouver town, Burrard inlet, to Victoria and Nanaimo ; weekly to San Francisco ; fortnightly to Portland, on the mainland (Oregon) ; anil at irregular intervals to all points up and down the coast. SO una A 3 BRITISH COLUMBIA. [Chap. I. ! Also, regularly to Japan and China, every fortnifjfht in Hummer and ovory four wt'oks in winter ; and to Australia every month. From Victoria, steamers run to Port Essington and Port Simpson fortnightly ; also, regularly to Port Angeles, IS miles distant ; Port To wnsend, I5S miles ; Seattle, 100 miles; Tacoma, 128 miles; Vancouver, 72 miles ; New Westminster, 715 miles ; Nanaimo, 72 miles ; and San Francisco, 750 miles (every .') days). Steam vessels also run from Victoria to Alaska every fortnight throughout the year. Railways. — The Canadian Pacific Railway crosses the heart of the British possessions in the North American continent, and is 3,05'4 statute miles in length between Quebec and Vancouver town in Burrard inlet, the western terminus ; the distance being accomplished in about 5 days 22 hours, and trains leave daily from both places. A branch runs from Vancouver town to English bay, and from Port Moody to New Westminster, thence it connects with Tacoma, Portland, San Francisco, unci the whole of the American railway system. There is a railway on Vancouver island, between Victoria, Esquimau, and Nanaimo. Telegraphs. — Esquimau is in telegraphic co. munication with England through Canada, by way of Nanaimo and Burrard inlet. Also through the United States, by way of Seattle. Submarine electric cables cross Juan de Fuca strait from Clover point to New Dungeness ; and the strait of Georgia from Valdes island to point Grey. Exports and imports.— In 1896-97, the total value of the imports was $7,130,381, and the exports $14,184,708. CLIMATE. — The climate of British Columbia varies considerably according to the locality ; in the southern parts and on Vancouver island it is temperate during summer, the thermometer seldom rising on the hottest day above 80° Fahr., or falling below 20° Fahr. in winter ; and it may, in fac*^^, be said that this region possesses the climate of England without its humidity. In the central part of the province, however, the drought, heat, and cold are greater, the heat sometimes being very intense. It is, however, remarkably healthy both in summer and winter, there being no malaria or ague either Chap. I.] RAILWAYS.— CLIMATE. (luriiij? tlio hotteHt woathor or in the dampont locallticH. Gonorally spoakiiiff, the Hummors are dry at Vanconvt^r island, l)nt with occa- sional showers ; the winters bring a good deal of rain, and snow falls more or less each yoar. In the northern part of the province along the coast the atmosphere is excessively humid, and rain falls heavily. The climate of the mainland coast opposite Vancouver island diirers somewhat from that of the south-east portion of the island. In summer the temperature averages slightly higher, and in winter somewhat lower, while the rainfall is greater immediately along the coast. The lower Fraser valley (New Westminster district) does not receive in summer the cold breezes from the Olympian mountains which blow across Victoria, nor does it receive in winter so much of the genial warmth of the ocean air. As a general thing, ice forms on the river for a short time and snow begins to fall in January, ami continues to do so intermittently till March, the ground not being continuously covered with it. At Esquimau the highest summer temperature is about 72° Fahr. (in August), June, July, and August being the warmest months of the year. The lowest temperature is about 23^" Fahr., the coldest months being December, January, and February. The greatest daily range occurs in March, and the smallest in October. The temperature on Vancouver island during summer is lower than on the mainland, owing to the prevailing south-east winds blowing from the snow-capped mountains on the American side and across Queen Charlotte sound. The waters of the sound are peculiarly cold at this season. The barometric variations are neither great nor frequent, the range for the year averaging about 1-5 inches. The climate at port Simpson is uncertain, no two seasons being the same, or appearing to follow any general law. During one summer fine weather may be experienced for six weeks at a time, and on such occasions a serene atmosphere, with magnificent sunsets, will be experienced. The following summer may prove one of almost constant rain, with a succession of gales from south-eastward. Along the shores of Chatham sound the rainfall is not so great as within the inlets. The temperature during July and August 1892 6 BRITISH COLUMBIA. [Ohai.. I. varied from r>2'' to 4S^ Tho inciiii ttrn|H>riil»n' of tho Hea was 4' lower than tli<' nieiin toinpemtiirc of the iitinoHpheru at port Simpson during thwHc periods, but iit M'thih (^ltIilh iind Nsihh luy it waH 8° lower than the iitmospiiero, probaljly due to tho iiilliu'nce of the coUl water from the rivers which flow into thoso biiyn. The navigator Vancouver in hin voyages (171K)-r)) describes as follows : "In Portland canal the snn's rays in August, between ',» a.m. and 3 p.m., are very powerful, and, reflected from the snow, caused occasionally intense heat. When the sun is obscured by the mountains, the atmosphere at once convey a sensation of chilliness. During that month, just before sunrise, the thermometer often registers 32° Fahrenheit, water left in basins within a tent being frozen during the night. The vapour developed by the heat of the sun during the early portion of the day, becoming condensed on the mountainous shores of the inlet, usually falls as a drizzling rain from 3 p.m. to about midnight." The climate of Queen Charlotte islands and the olf-lying islanils of the coast of British Columbia is inlluenced by the warm body of water which washes their shores, the winter is less severe and the climate is milder on the islands than within the inlets. The vapour arising from this body of warm water is condensed upon the high mountains which form the shores of the mainland, and falls in drizzling almost constant rain so prevalent in these waters. Ice. — Fraser river is, as a rule, frozen over at New Westminster, from January to early in March, during which time sleighs run to Langley. The lakes in the vicinity are frozen over, and ice forms at the head of the several inlets where the water is com- paratively fresh, but on the coast it does not form sufficiently thick to impede navigation. Within the inlets on the coast, north of Vancouver island, ice is formed during the winter of from 8 to 12 inches in thickness, and occasionally extends as far as 25 miles from the heads of the inlets. Skeena and Nass rivers are frozen over during the winter, the former as far as six miles below port Essington, and the latter, in severe weather, down to its mouth. Rainfall. — The average annual rainfall appears to be about .55 inches ; heavy rains generally occur in December and January. Chap. I.] ICR.— POOS. Meteorological tables t<>r placfH ueur thu Heaboanl of British Columbiu will he found at pages r)')()-552. FOGS.—Juan de Fuca strait.— Alt hon^rh fops in this region an- ii(»t ol Hiich frt'(iuent occiin'once ,i8 on the neighbouring coast ol C'nlifomia (where they prevail almost uninterruptedly during summer, and as late as the middle of October), yet from August to X«tvember they occur in Juiiu de Fuca strait, and are scunetimes very dense over the entnvnce for several days together. They are generally accompanied by calms or very light winds from north- west, which renders thorn the more dangerous to sailing- vessels closing the land. Fog: on the coast north of Vancouver island.— Fogs are prevalent especially during the summer months. The north-west winds which prevail during that season, condense the vapour which arises from the comparatively warm water surrounding Queen Charlotte islands and the coast of Alaska. During the prevalence of north-west winds this vapour is dispersed, but during calms or with light winds, and especially with south-westerly winds succeeding north-west winds, it approaches quickly from seaward in the form of dense fog, or drizzling mist and rain. At times fog will be found at the entrances to the sounds during the forenoon, dispersing near noon by the heat of the sun, the afternoons becoming clear and fine. Smokes from forest fires cause much inconvenience during the dry season, and are a great impediment to navigation. In some seasons they have extended from Georgia strait to Portland inlet. FOG SIGNALS. — Caution.— Sound is conveyed in a very capricious way through the atmosphere. Apart from the wind, large ai'eas of silence have been found in different directions and at different distances from the origin of the sound, even in clear weather. Therefore, too much confidence should not be felt in hearing a fog signal. The apparatus, moreover, for sounding the signal often requires some time before it is in readiness to act. A fog often creeps imperceptibly towards the land, and is not observed by the people at a lighthouse until it is upon them ; whereas, a ship may have been for many hours in it, and approaching the land. In such a case no signal may be sounded. When sound has to travel against the wind, it may be thrown upwards ; iu such a case a man aloft might hear it when it is inaudible on deck. ■yr 8 BRITISH COLUMBIA. [Chap. T. WINDS.— Juan de Fuca strait.— Within Juan de Fuca strait, m the winter «eii8on, the winds usually assume its direction either up or down. During summer, the prevailing winds from N.W. or S.W. take a direction up the strait ; while the S.E. gales of winter blow fairly out. Although a westerly wind may be blowing within the strait, it frequently during the change of the seasons blows heavily outside at the same time from S.S.W., or sometimes suddenly changes to that direction from a light easterly wind on opening the entrance, which makes that part of the coast of Vancouver island (between port San Juan and Bonilla point) a dangerous lee-shore to a ship without steam power. The coast winds in summer prevail from S.W. and N.W., the former during the early months, and the latter blowing fresh and with great regularity during June, July and August. In September and the early part of October the winds are very uncertain and there is generally a great deal of calm, gloomy weather. The barometer usually stands above 3000 inches during summer ; should it fall to 29"00 a south-easterly wind with thick rainy weather may be expected, but of short duration, and clearing up witli a westerly wind as soon as the barometer rises. The winter winds are S.E. or S.W., more frequently the former ; the}'' set in towards the end of October, and continue urtU the middle of April. S.E. gales are generally preceded by a short interval of calm, cloudy weather ; they spring up gradually from East or E.S.E. veering to the southward, accompanied by rain and thick weather, the barometer falling rapidly ; when the barometer becomes stationary the wind shifts suddenly to S.W. and bloAvs heavily with clear weather, but with frequent squalls of rain ; the barometer begins to rise immediately the wind veers to S.W., from which quarter it generally blows from 12 to 20 hours. The violence and duration of these S.E. gales is always proportioned to the fall of the mercury ; with the barometer at 29*50 a strong gale may be looked for from this quarter ; it seldom falls below 20"20, when very bad weather is certain to follow. On two or three occasions in as many years it has been known to fall to 28*00, and has been followed by S.E. gales of grcai violence. A S.E. gale sometimes springs up, though very seldom, with the barometer above 30*00 inches. On such occasions the wind has always been preceded by calm, cloudy weather and rain, with a high / Chap. I.] WINDS. to le 18 but falling barometer ; such gales are not violent and are of short duration. S.E. gales are always accompanied by thick dirty weather, and rain ; but they seldom continue from that (piarter for more than 12 or 18 hours, unless the barometer falls very low, and thoy almost always shift to S.W. When the S.W. gale of winter is not preceded by one from S.E., the barometer seldom falls ; it either remains stationary, when the gale may be expected to continue longer, or rises slowly, when it will gradually subside and fine weather follow. S.W. gales are accompanied by heavy banks of clouds, with passing showers of rain, and sometimes snow. The barometer has been known to fall during winter as low as 20"4o, and has been followed by no gale or bail weather, but on such occasions there has been a heavy fall of snow on the hills, and a sudden fall of 15° in the temperature. A fine northerly or N.E. wind frequently occurs at intervals during the months of December, January, and February ; it is always accompanied by a high barometer (above 30"0), and at such times a continuance for several days together of clear, cold, frosty weather may be looked for ; the barometer on these occasions will sometimes rise as high as 80'70, and thr ine weather will then probably last a fortnight or more. Winds In tlie strait of Georgia.— The prevailing summer wind in the strait of Georgia is from N.W., or the same as on the outside coast, and between May and September it blows strong and steady, commencing about 9 a.m. and dying away towards sunset. These winds do not generallj' extend much below Roberts point, among the Haro archipelago they become variable and baffling, while in the main channels of Kosario and Haro the westerly wind entering the strait of Fuca is deflected to S.W., and vessels running up these channels with a fair wind almost always find it ahead on entering the strait of Georgia. During winter there is a good deal of moderate, calm, and gloomy weather, but gales from S.E. and S.W. are frequent. Winds on the coast north of Vancouver island.— The prevailing winds during the summer on the coast northward of Vancouver island are from the north-west, preceded during the earlier summer months by south-westerly winds. 10 BRITISH COLUMBIA. [Chap. I. Dnrinj? tho wintor months S.E. and S.W. ^vind8 prevail. (liik'S from the S.E. prevail at all seuHons, ami are more frequent anil severe than those exjierienced m the coast of Vancouver island. Tlie summer j^ales art of shorter dnration than those of winter, and seldom last more than 4S hours. At the fall of the year, gales from the S.E., lasting for S days, have been experienced. Thf strength of the summer winds depends greatly upon local circumstances. Down the channels, which lie in a N.W. and S.E. direction, with high land on both shores, they frequently blow with great strength. The wind usiially begins at sunrise, increases in strength throughout the day until about 3 p.m., and then gradually declines towards sunset. The nights, as a rule, are calm during the summer months ; but, if the wind prevail but slightly i'om the N.W. during the night, it will probably blow hard from that quarter on th ^ following day. The barometer stands at about 3G'10 during the prevalence of N.W. winds. Gales from the south-east are usually preceded by a falling barometer, but not invariably. A sensatio;- <>i 'copness in the atmosphere is the usual precursor, and the )>»•;;.!,. , the wet and dry bulbs, though as a rule not differing greatly upcu this coast, more closely approximate each other. If during the summer the barometer fall one-tenth of an inch, especially if it has been standing at higher than 30*20, a gale from the south-east is probable. These gales usually begin at E.S.E., veering to the southward with a falling barometer ; tho wind remaining at S.E. and S.S.E. for a long or short period according to the season of the year. With a rising barometer tho wind shifts to the S.W. with violent squalls, and then hauling more westerly blows itself cut. A strong S.l'^ gale, of short duration, has been experienced, during the summ ;r, with the barometer previously registering 30'17 and t> lii:-: to 30-12. "Winds in Queen Charlotte islands.— South-east v/inds are prevalent, and are almost invariably accompanied with thick, rainy weather ; those from the opposite quarter generally bring tine weather. The weather is uncertain, and cannot be depended on for 24 hours at a time. The heaviest rainfall is local, taking place on the wesiPrn mountains of Queen Charlotte islands. It may often be noted K.at while heavy rain is falling on tlie mountains the sky iscomparBtUi'^t Chap. 1.] WINDS.— CURRENTS. 11 with for a '^ith a liialls, S.K, iTD :r, liiiC are •ainy tine for liern IK .at 'I, ck^iir ovof the strait to the eastward, b'ruiii this circuiustance the north-east part of Graham island is not subject to a heavy rainfall. Snow occasionally falls in winter. CURRENTS. — A south-easterly ciirrenl has been found to prevail on the western coast of Vancouver island more or less throughout the year, particularly from August to November, pro- bably in some measure caused by the N.W. winds which blow almost constantly on the coast during the summer. This current joining the ebb stream out of Fuca stiwit has been known to set vessels between 1 and 5 miles an hour to the south-eastward, and during fogs there is great risk of being drifted on to cape Flattery, or some of its off-lying dangers ; extreme caution should, therefore^ be observed when entering the strait at such times, especiallj' near the full and change of the moon when the tidal streams are at their strongest. With winds from the south-eastward in the offing, however, this southerly set has been checked, and near the coast a set to the north- ward experienced. In July, 187)^, II. M.S. liepiilst' experienced a northerly set of one knot an hour and S.E. winds, at IJOU miles from cape Flattery. H.M.S. Heroine in 1883 also experienced a current setting in the same direction. Waterlogged vessels, laden with red wood fi-om (\diforni;i, have frequently been found stranded on the bi'acli between Barclay sound and Clayoquot sound. In January 187-4, a life buoy was lost GO miles S.W. of capo Flattery, and in February of the same year, about six weeks later, the same life buoy was picked up on Masset beach, Queen Charlotte islands. In 1875, the steamer Pacific was sunk in collision about 30 miles S.S.W. of cape Flattery, and a great deal of the wreckage was foimd in the neighbourhooil of Barclay sound, while some of the bodies were picked up near Beacon hill, Victoria. The currents are aflCocted by the direction and force of the winds, and, as in winter, tiie prevailing wind is S.E. to S.W., the tendency is to produce a northerly set or current. H.M.S. Pheamnl (18;U) exi)erienced a N.W. set when returning to Esquimau from the Bering sea. It is reported by local pilots '■ that a current to N.W. is steady and well defined on the western coast of Washington and Van- couver island, and inside the current setting to the S.E. along the coast. 12 BRITISH COLUMBIA. [Chap. I. TIDES. — On the coasts and in the channels of British Columbia there are usually two unequal tides in the lunar day ; the inter- mediate tide being generally of very small range in comparison with the larger tide ; and sometimes disappearing altogether, then making only one tide in the lunar day. The intermediate tide is sometimes nearly as high as the larger tide, with a fall of less than one fjot between ; .sometimes as low as the larger tide, with only a smrdl rise between ; and again occurs midway between the higher high water or the lower low water ; its general effect, thus being an apparent stand in the level of the sea surface for about 8 hours before or after high or low water, or midway between them. The range of the tide is much affected by the moon's declination and parallax ; the position for producing the greatest range being soon after the moon has passed its extreme north or south declination, and is at the same time near its greatest parallax ; and for producing (it 'oa''t range, soon after it has passed the equator, and is at the sui le near its lowest parallax ; the general effect being that tides - the greatest range do not necessarily occur at a regular interval after new or full moon, but rather when the moon is in a favorable position with regard to its parallax and declination as given above. On the western side of Vancouver island the tides are regular ; flood and ebb of six hours duration, the times of high water on the full and change at Nootka sound, and at the entrance of Goletas channel, varying very little, and occurring near noon, the greatest range 13 feet. TIDAL STREAMS.— The flood stream seta to the northward along the outer coast of the continent and Vancouver island. It enters Juan de Fuca strait at cape Flattery, running with con- siderable velocity, sometimes 3 or 4 knots, over Duncan and Duntze rocks ; it then turns sharply into the strait, passing through the various channels among the Haro archipelago into the strait of Georgia, and between cape Mudge and cape Lazo at a distance of from .5 to 20 miles from the former. According to the phase of the moon and the state of the wind, it is met by a flood stream from the northward, which, sweeping the western coast of Vancouver island, enters Goletas channel and Queen Charlotte sound at its northern extreme, in lat. 51° N., thence southerly down the narrow waters of Johnstone strait and Discovery passage, Chap. I.] TIDRH AND TIDAL STREAMS. 13 meeting the stream which enters by Juan ele Fuca strait, and reaches abont midway between the northern and southern extremes of Vancouver island, or close to the spot where the broad expanse of the strait of Georgia merges into the narrow channels adjoining it. At ca])e Flattery the west-going stream commences to run strongly about 2 hours after high water, full and change ; and continues for about G hours. There is no marked irregularity observable in Johnstone strait and Discovery passage, except the not unusual circumstance that the ebb stream continues to run to the northward for 2 hours afte.- it is low water by the shore, the water rising at the same time ; the ebb stream being of 7 hours duration, the flood about 5 hours. For tides in Seymour narrows, see page 250. The ebb stream has always been found to run southward through the Haro archipelago, and out of Fuca strait for 2.^ hours after it is low water by the shore, the water rising during that time ; the ebb is stronger than the flood, and generally two hours longer duration. Tidal streams in Strait of Georgia.— The tidal streams, although not nearly so strong as among the Haro archipelago, yet run with considerable strength, as much as 3 knots, particularly during the freshets of summer, when Fraser river discharges an immense volume of fresh water, which takes a southerly direction over the banks, and almost straight for the mouth of Active pass. The peculiar milk-coloured water is frequently carried quite across the strait, and is sometimes seen in the inner channels washing the shores of Vancouver island ; at other times it reaches the centre of the channel only, forming a remarkable and most striking contrast with the deep blue waters of the strait of Georgia. Tidal streams in Hecate strait.— In Hecate strait the flood stream comes from the southward. In Dixon entrance, the flood coming from the westward round North island, sets along the Masset shore, across Hecate strait for Brown passage, spreading for about 15 miles round Rose point towards cape Ibbetson (Edye passage), where it meets the flood from the southward ; consequently between Rose point, cape Ball, cape Ibbetson, and thence south-east 15 or 20 miles, the streams are irregular. The '"^^^rse and rate of the tidal streams are greatly influenced by the winds. At full and change they run with great strength. Tim© of high water over the strait generally is about Oh. 30m. 14 BRITISH COLUMBIA. [Chap. I. Bttween cape Murray, Percy point, and Zayas island the streams are strongest and most irniguhir, causing a heavy and confused sea, so much so, that in l)ad weather it has the appearance of breakers. CANADIAN UNIFORM SYSTEM OF BUOYAGE.— Throughout the ports of British Columbia all buoys on the star- board side of the channel, entering from seaward, are painted red, and, if numbered, marked with even numbers, and must be left on the starboard hand when passing in. All buoys on the port side, entering from seaward are painted black, with odd numbers, if any, and must be left on the port hand when passing in. Buoys painted with red and black horizontal bands will be found on obstructions or middle grounds, and may be left on either hand. Buoys painted with white and black vertical stripes will be found in mid-channel, and must be passed close-to, to avoid danger. All other distinguishing marks to buoys are in addition to the foregoing, and indicate particular spots ; a detailed description of which is given when the mark is first established. Perches with balls, cages, &c., will, when placed on buoys, be at turning points, the colour and number indicating on which side they are to be passed. Spar buoys will in some cases be surmounted by a ball, which will invariably be painted red, and will indicate that it is a starboard buoy, and must be left on the starboard or right hand when entering a channel or harbour. The rule for colouring buoys is equally applicable to beacons, sjandles, and o*^^her day marks, so far as it may be practicable to carry it out. In British Columbian waters the buoys are not withdrawn in winter. UNITED STATES UNIFORM SYSTEM OF BUOYAGE. — As a part of the United States is described in this work, it is mentioned that : the following uniform system of buoyage has been adopted for the coasts and harbours of the United States : — Approaching from seaward — all buoys on the starboard side of a channel are painted red, and if numbered, marked with even numbers, and should be left on the starboard hand. Approaching from seaward — all buoys on the port side of a channel are painted black, with odd numbers, and should be left on the port hand. (vhap. I.] UNIFORM BUOYAGE.— STORM SIGNALS. 15 ? Bnoys painted red and black, in horizontal stripes, mark obstruc- , tions, or middle grounds, and may be left on either hand. Buoys i)ainte(l white and black, in vertical stripes, mark mid- channel, and should be passed close to, to avoid danger. All other distinguishing marks to buoys are in addition to the I foregoing, and indicate particular spots ; a description of which is as follows : — I Perches, with balls, cages, &c., will, when placed on buoys, be at I turning points, the colour and number indicating on which hand they should be left. i Different channels in the same bay, sound, river, or harbour will be marked, as far as practicable, by different descriptions of buoys. I Principal channels will l)e marked by nun buoys ; secondary j channels by can l)uoys ; and minor channels bv spar buoys. I Where there in only one channel, nun buoys, properb coloured and numbered, are usually placed on the starboard side, and can buoys on the \)ort side of the channel. The rule for colouring buoys is applicable to beacons, and other day-marks, marking the sides of channels. In other j)laces, beacons i and day-marks will be constructed with special reference t*, the I background before which they are seen. UNITED STATES STORM SIGNALS. — A storm Sigmal. — A red flag (8 feet square) with black centre Q\ feet square) indicates that the storm is expected to be of marked violence. A red pennant (') feet hoist and 12 feet fly) displayed with the flags indicates easterly winds ; that is, from north-east to south, inclusive, and that the storm centre is approaching. If the pennant is above the storm signal, winds from the north-east quadrant are expected ; and if below, winds from south-east quadrant. A white pennant (5 feet hoist and 12 feet fly) indicates westerly winds ; that is, from north to south-west, inclusive, and that the storm centre has passed. If the pennant is above the storm signal, winds from north-west quadrant are expected ; and if below, winds from south-west quadrant. The information signal consists of a red pennant, and indicates that the displayman haa received information of a storm •• , covering a limited area, dangerous only for vessels about to sail to 16 BRITISH COLUMBIA. [Chap. I. certain points. The signal will serve as a notification to ship- masters that important information will be given tliem upon appli- cation to the displayman. No night signals are displayed on the Pacific coast, KELP will be seen on the surface of the water, growing on nearly every danger with a bottom of rock or stones, during the summer and autumn months ; but during the winter and spring this useful marine plant is not always to be seen. It should be an invariable rule never to pass through kelp. In general, by keeping clear of kelp you keep clear of danger, but this must not prevent attention to the lead, as the rule sometimes fails ; kelp is always a sign of danger, and unless the spot where it grows has been carefully sounded, it is not safe for a ship to pass over it. A heavy surge will occasionally tear the kelp away from rocks ; and a moderate stream will ride it under water, when it will not be seen. When passing on the side of a patch of kelp, from which the stems stream away with the current, care should be taken to give it a wide berth, because* the kelp showing with a strong tide is on one side of and not over the rocks. The least water will usually be found in a clear spot in the middle of a thick patch of fixed kelp. It is perhaps well to point out that kelp not attached to rock floats on the water in heaps, whereas kelp attached to rocka streams away level with the surface, whilst the leaves give an occasional flap. INNER PASSAGES. CAUTION. — When navigating the inner waters of British Columbia, it should be constantly borne in mind that many of the main channels and most of the minor passages have only been roughly examined ; detached boulders from the broken shores, and pinnacles of rock are still frequently found. Whenever, there- fore, a broad and clear channel is known to exist, there is no justification in using, without necessity, one of more doubtful character, even if there be some saving in distance ; and a ship should always be maintained in the safest possible position in a channel, as well as when going in or out of port. VICTORIA to BURRARD INLET.— The best route from Victoria to Burrard inlet is south of Trial and Discovery islands, I i Chap. T.J KELP.— PASSAGES. 17 tlirongli the main channel of Haro strait, and northwanl of Stuart and Waldron JHhuids into the .strait of Georgia. Only thobe with good local knowledge should attempt to navigate the inner channels. VICTORIA to ALASKA.— From Victoria or Tuget sound it is usual for vessels to ]tass through Haro str.iit and enter the strait of Georgia, eastward of Saturna island, or through Active pass (for steam-vessels). »SVr Caution, on page 1(). Strait of Georgia to Queen Charlotte sound.— Steamers to Alaska usually coal at Departure bay or Nanaimo ; it is usual to pass southward of Ballinac islands, and also the Sisters, from whence a course is shaped for Discovery passage, the only navigable channel from the gulf of Georgia to the north-west ; vessels may have to wait for slack tide in Seymour narrows, for which Menzies bay to th(; southward of the narrows, and Plumper bay to the northward, will l)e found convenient anchorages.* Proceed mid-channel through Johnstone passage ; there is a clear channel both northward and southward of Helmcken island ; the latter, named Hace channel, is that generally used. When navigating Broughton strait do not pass more than 2 cables southward of Cormorant island to clear Nimpkish bank, and the south-western coast of Haddington island should be rounded within half a mile to avoid the reef off Ledge point, and care should be taken when rounding Pulteney i)oint, the west extreme of Malcolm island, off which foul ground extends more than one mile. From Broughton sound to Queen Charlotte sound either Goletas or New channel may be selected. From Queen Charlotte sound to Dixon entrance the route usually adopted in steam-ships is by way of Fitzhugh sound, Lama passage, Seaforth channel, Milbank sound, Finlayson and Grenville channels, and Chatham sound. The passage to Fitzhugh sound is between the dangerous Sea Otter group on the west and the rocks off the entrance to Smith sound, about lat. T)!*^ 20' N. Those from the westward enter by North passage between Sea Otter group and Calvert island. Westerly gales send in a heavy swell, and dense fogs are of frequent occurrence in this vicinity, that too great care cannot be taken in the navigation.! Fitzhugh sound is about 40 miles long, averages about 3 miles wide, and has deep water. When passing from Seaforth channel to so 11948 • See chart, No. 1,917. t See charte, Nos. 1,923a and b. B 18 BIITTISTI f'OLTTMIUA. [Chap. r. Milbank sound it is usual to pasH three-quarters of a mile northward of White rocks. Finlayson channel is about 24 miles long, 2 miles wide, and has deep water ; Hiekish narrows are 2h caliles wide in the narrowest part. When nearing Hewitt rock keep the northern shore aboard. Grenville channel is reueliid through Campania sourd, l)y Squally or Whale channel, lat. fh\° 20' N. Except when bound up Skeena river the passage south of Gibson channel island is preferable, thence by Arthur passage to Chatham sound and to Dixon entrance and Port Simpson. Dixon entrance to Cross sound.— The main channels at present used, and touching at the various points of the Alaska territory, are by the inland passages, as follows : — Touching first at Tongass the route then follows the Kevillagigedo channel, through Tongass narrows to Clarence strait, and by Silklne strait to Port Wrangell, making detours to visit Port Chester and the various fishing stations. From Port Wrangell the route continues through Wrangell strait (which, with local knowledge, is navigable by vessels drawing 10 feet at lf)w water, it Is well buoyed, but the navigation is dltllcult), through Frederick sound and Stei)hens passage to .Juneau and Douglas, in Gastineau channel ; t hence again by Stephens passage to the west end of Douglas island ; if bound to the head of Lynn canal pass up Favorite channel.* If bound to Sitka pass through Saginaw channel, dowii Chatham strait, and by Peril strait (the latter (»n no account without a pilot). Vessels sometimes pass out by Summer strait, round caj)e Decision (hit. 5G° 0' N.), and up Chatham strait, or continue outside ilirectly to Sitka, or other outside ports. OCEAN PASSAGES. VANCOUVER and YOKOHAMA.— Full-powered steam- vessels. — The tracks reconnnended are as follows : — From Vancouver to Yokohama, during summer months ; from Juan de Fuca strait steer to cross the meridian of 140' W. in lat. 51'^ N., keeping on that parallel to the 170th meridian, thence steering to cross 160° E. in lat. 48'^ N., Iftir E. in lat. 4,'JV' N., and to make the coast of Japan at Kinkuwasan light in about lat. 38*^ 20' X. During winter months the same track to the IdOth meridian east, thence steering to cross l.W E. in lat. 44i"N., passing about 50 miles ■ ■ ; 6ktf chart, No. 2,431, Chap. I.] PAHftAGEft. 19 the south-eastwanl of Shikotan (Skotan), and to make the coast of Japan as before at Kinkuwasan light. Tht'Hi' routes are UHually northward of the westerly winds, and in tiie track of the cold westerly current throuf,'hout. From Yokohama to Vancouver, at all seasons, cross the meridian of ]r)(F K. in lat. JO' N., U'Ar ]<]. in 4li N., 17(1'^ K. in 47^" N., and the l.SOth meridian in lat. ID ' N. ; thence keeping on that parallel to 140" W., and from there steering for the entrance of Juan de Fuca strait. This route is usually in a warm easterly current throughout. VANCOUVER to VALPARAISO. — Full-powered steam routes. — Direct. Distances : — From P]squimalt to Callao, 4,750 miles; to Valparaiso, ;>,1)J0 miles. From San FmnciBCO to Callao, IV-'iU) miles ; to Valparaiso, 5,1. 'iO miles. Sail or auxiliary steam.— In winter S.E. and S.W. winds prevail on the coast of California as far south as about lat. 2.')" N. and those bound from Vancouver island to Valparaiso at that season should stand down the coast, keeping at about 100 miles from it until near the latitude of San Fnmcisco, and thence gradually edge to the westward so as to pass westward of and in sight of Guadalupe island, where in all probability the north-east trade wind will be met with ; then steer to sight Clipperton island, passing westward of it ; and in about this latitude the north-east trade wind will be lost. If steam power is available the belt of variable winds and calms, which at this season on the nn^ridian of 120° is 250 to JJSO miles wide, should be crossed on a southerly course so as to pick up the northern edge of the south-east trade winds in about long. 110° W. (well to windward) ; but if depending on sail alone a vessel will probably not be able to cross the ecjuator much to windward of long. 118° W., and every effort should bo made not to cross further than that to the westward, as the result would be that the vessel would not weather Elizabeth or Pitcairn islands, in the vicinity of which light baffling winds from South to S.E. would be experienced. The S.E. trade wind at :i!s time of the year will in all probability be met with between lat. .5° N. and 3° N. Th(^ higher latitude during the early winter months (November and December), and the lower latitude towards March, when the ship should be kept full, making, as nearly as the wind will permit, a due South (true) course. SO 11948 &>' chart, No. 2,6S3. B2 20 nniTTSTI rOLUMRTA. [Chill). T. In about lat. 6" S. th«> tradw wind f^encrully becomes more c .ly in direction, Hometimes hauling uh far round as K. by N. Cross the 2()th ]r.ir.i\M (S.) in long. 120" or 121° W. in order to pass well to windward of Ducie island, and standing to the south-east cross the meridian of f^aster island in about lat. XV S. and the lOOth meridian in lat. 'M\" S. (^alnis and variable winds will be experienced in the vicinity of the liOth parallel settling into the north-west quarter as the vessel getci more to the southward, and on this account the l(M)th meridian should never be crossed n<^rthward of lat. ;U')° S. The 4()th parallel should be reached before making easting, thence steer to pass southward of Juan Fernandez and on to Val)):iraiso. In November 1872, H.M.S. Sri///fi went to the paralhd of 41° S. before making easting, accomplishing a gocnl passage of 4(t days. Ill SUminer. — In summer a course further west may be pursued, passing the latitude of San Francisco in about l.^tyw. Tlu-nce a sailing-vessel should be kept further from the land to avoid the calms and light variable winds experienced at this season along the coast of lower California and in the bay of Panama. After meeting the north-east trade wind in about lat. iiO" N. stand to the southward, making a south (true) course on the meridian of 12.")° W. not only to avoid the calms above mentioned, but also the hurricanes which during August and September are liable to be m' with eastAvard of that meridian. Occasionally, but rarely, these is are met with west of long. 125° W. The north-east trade wind will be lost at this season in lat. 11° or 12° N., and the belt of doldrums will be foxmd to be not so wide as during the winter months. The southeast trade wind will at this season be met with in about lat. <S" N., and if, as is most likely to be the case at the commencement, the wind be well to the southwiird, stand to the eastward in order to recover some of the ground lost by keeiting further to the westward in the north-east trades. Endeavour to cross the equator in from long. 11. S" to ]2(>" W., and soon after crossing, the wind will haul more to the eastward, when stand to the southward to weather Ducie island, and reach the 4()th parallel before making easting, so is to fall in with the north- westerly winds, as calms and variable Avinds are met Avith north of that parallel. After passing the meridian of 90° W. haid up for Juan Fernandez and thence for Valparaiso . VALPARAISO to VANCOUVEI; —Full-powered steam routes.— Direct. See chart, No. 2,683. Chii|>. I.] PAHSACiKS. 21 Sail aud auxiliary steam.— The luwt route to pnrHue '.vh»'n milking this voyage is the hhiuo at all tiiiioH of tlu* year. Leaving Valpjiraiw) stand to the north-west wanl pawHing to the eurttwunl of St. l-'elix, and croHsing the 17th parallel in long. lUr W. After falling in with the Bouth-eaHt trade wind Bteer to crosB the equator in al tout 118" W. After falling in with the north-east trade wind Bteer to ctosh the :20th jtarallel in long. i:i7 W. and the 'MHh parallel in long. 14(PW. Thence edge away to the eastward, cntSHing the ■10th parallel in long. I'.W W., and make for lat. 17 N., long. 130" W., before steering direct for Juan de Fuca strait, (Distance by this route 7,:ir)0 miles.). In May autl June the north-east trade wind is often very weak north of the 20th parallel, and frequently a belt of calm exists between the 20th and 30th parallels. PANAMA to VANCOUVER ISLAND.-Steam routes- Direct. Along the Californian coast and to the northward, steamers shoidd follow the coast from point to point, as nearly as possible, always keeping within 15 miles of the land. By this means the strong north-weLi wind will freipiently be avoided, as calms will often be found close in with the shore when there is a wind to seaward Auxiliary steam. — Vessels with auxiliary steam power bound from Panama to Vancouver island should stretch oil' on a W. by N. (true) course (or, until the parallel of 12' N. is gained, a little more northerly), passing the meridian of Acapuico in about lat. Hi" N. The eastern limit of the north-east trade wind is uncertain, but it will generally be met with in about long. lOli" W., /.<'., at about 300 miles from the land. When first falling in with it the W. by N. course should be maintained, as by steering more to the northward the trade wind will be found to hang to the north and north-west. The meridian of 110" W. should be crossed in lat. 14" N., after which steer to cross the 130th meridian in about lat. 30" N., when steer northward as far as lat. 40" N., or until the westerly winds are reached, and thence gi-adually edge away for the port. Sailing^. — A vessel unaided by steam i)ower will experience considerable difficulty and delay in getting out of the bay ui Panama, owing to the light baffling winds and calms which are met with there at all seasons. Between October and April the prevailing wind in the gulf is from the northward ; for the remainder of the .Sir ohart, No. 2,683. i 00 BRITISH COLUMBIA. LChap. I. 1 ' year the wind hangs more to the westward, and huiil and sea breezes are felt varied by cahns and occasional 8(iualls from south-west. Northward of lat. r)° N., between the 8OH1 and llOth meridians, is a region of calms and light winds varied by sq\ialls of wind atid rain ; but southward of hvt. 5° N., between the coast of the mainland and tlie Crahipagos ishmds, Avest of the meridian of 80' W.. tlie wind is between Houtli and West all the year round, anil, except between the months of February and June, is fairly strong. A vessel should, therefore, at all -.easons make the best of her way to the southward, keeping as nearly as possible on the meridian of m' W. until lat. T)^ N. is reached, wlien, if the wind will allow, make a south-west course. Should the wind \ni westward of S.W. stand to the southward, but if soutiiward of S.W. stand to the westward, and should the wind be light and variable with rain make every endeavour to get to the southward. When lat. 2' N. is reached, a vessel may, between June and .January, stand to the westward carrying S.W. winds as far as 85° W., after which the wind will haul to the southward and south-eastward settling into the south-east trade wind. Pass northward of the Galapngos islands, keejjing on the parallel of 2*^' N. until the meriuian of lU;") W. is reached, when edge away to pass westward of Clii)perton islaiul, in the neighbourhood of which the north-east trade wind will be met with, when stand to the north-west to cross the parallel of 20^ N. in long. 120" W., after which pursue the same course as if bound from Valparaiso. {See page 20.) Between January and April, however, it is better to cross the equator between the Galai)agos islands and the mainland before standing to the westward. Southward of lat. 1^ N. the wind will be found to haid to the eastward as the vessel leaves the coast. At this season ves.sels should keej) to the southward of the equator until westward of long. 10.')" W., when proceed as before directed. VANCOUVER to PANAMA. -Full-powered steam.- Direct. Sailing". — Sailing vessels making this passage between the months of December and May, inclusive, when the prevailing winds on the west coast of Mexico are from the northward, and the current favourable, should stand down the coast of California, keeping about 100 miles otF, and at about ir)0 miles off the coast of Mexico, shaping a course to make the island of Hicaron, about 50 miles «ir chart, No. 2,683. to the after ijimiso. 088 the ji'forc ml will count. quator tod. iionths oil the nirrent eeping exico, miles ! Chnp. 1.] PA.SSACES. 23 westward from Mariato point, which is a good landfall for vessels bound to Panama from the westward. Between the months of June and November, inclusive, when calms, variable winds, and oftentimes hurricanes prevail on the west coast of Mexico, sailing vessels should stand well out to sea after passing San Francisco, shaping a course to cross the equator in about long. 104° W., thence standing on to the southward, until sure of reaching Panama on the other (starboard) ta k. POUTH-EASTERN AUSTRALIA TO VANCOUVER ISLAND AND SAN FRANCISCO AND BACK.— Full- powered steam routes. — Direct as possible, passing south-east- ward of New Caledonia, and calling at Fiji and Honolulu for coal, it necessary. Distances; — Sydney to Fiji, l,7iU) nilles; Fiji to Honolulu, 2,7(50 miles; Honolulu to Ks(iuimalt, 2,;M0 miles; and Honolulu to San Francioco, 2,0'.10 miles. The route back is the reverse of the above. Sail and auxiliary steam routes.—Pass north or south of New Zealand, or through Cook strait, according to the direction of the wind on leaving, preferably through Cook strait, if from Sydney or Bass strait, but south i>f New Zealand if passing south of Tasmaiiiii. Thence proceed as from New Zealand. Ou the route back, stand to the south-westward into the N.E. trade, and thence proceed as direct as possible, crossing the equator in about 170^ W., and passing westward of the Fiji islands and south- eastward of New Caledonia. See chart, No. 2,68;}. !i ^ I I '\ 24 CHAPTER II. "'AN DE FUOA AND HARO STRAITS. WITH ADMLIALTY INLET. — PUGET SOUND. — EHCiUIMALT HAUBOUH. — VICTOKTA HARBOUR.— INNER CHANNELS.— DIRECTIONS. Variation, 22 |° East in 1808. JUAN DE FUOA STRAIT, formed between the south coast of Vancouver island and the mainland of Washington territory, has its entrance between the parallels of 48° 23' N. and 48° 'AG' N., and on the meridian of 124° 45' W. ; it is liable to all those sudden vicissitudes of weather common to high northern latitudes ; and in few parts of the world is the caution and vigilance of the navigator more called into action than when entering it.* The breadth of the strait between cape Flattery, its southern point of entrance, and Boniila point on Vancouver island (its northern), is i;i miles ; within these points it has a breadth averaging 12 miles in an Easterly direction for GO miles. At its eastern part are channels leading northwards to the P.ritish possessions, and among the Haro archipelago, and southward to those of the United States, by Admiralty inlet and Puget sound. The strait in the centre is of great depth, but within 1), miles of either shore there is, generally, under 40 fathon\s, and on the northern wide, when 5 miles eastward of port San Juan, 8 to 12 fathoms will be fimnd within one mile of the shore. On both sides of the strait, are several anchorages or stoi)ping places which may be taken advantage of by tliose ;iieoting with adverse winds ; those on the southern side, before reaching the harbours of Admiralty inlet, lire Neeah and t^allam bays, Port Angeles, New Dungeiiess bay, Washington harbour, and port Discovery ; on the nortlnTU side, westward of the Race islands, are Port San .luan, Sooke inlet, and Becher bay, eastward of which, excellent anciiorage may bi^ always obtained during westerly winds. On the northern, or Vancouver island shore, the hills rise gradually and are densely wooded, but near the coast attain to no great ♦ Str Admiralty charts ; — Vancouver island and adjacent shores of Britiah Columbia, No. 1,917, scale, »« = 15 of an inch ; and Juan de Fuca atrait, No. l,yil, scale. "' = U'28 of an Inch. I ! Chap. II.] JUAN DB PUCA STRAIT. 25 1080 il»'8 the to )oth lich ikIh ; ilty 'I'y. 11 le, iind ally reat itiah t'levation ; on the southern side are the almost perpetually snow-clail mountains, known as the Olympian ninge. RESCUE STATIONS.— Depots, with provisions and other necessaries for ship-wrecked Mariners, have been established at cape Beale lighthouse, and Carmanah lightliouse. These two lighthouses are teleg;aph and signal stations. Notice boanls have Ix'en erected at intervals between cape Beale and Port San Juau (about 1;? miles eastward of Carmanah lighthouse), giving infonuiition, for the use of sliip-wreeked Mariners, respecting the direction and distance of the nearest lighthouse, and also of the nearest Indian village where assistance can be obtained. — Sec ((Lso page 3. The COAST southward from cape Flattery trends S.s.K. for 25 miles, the land being mountainous anil thickly wooded. At the distance of 11 miles are the Flattery rocks, a group of remarkable, bare, rugged islets, the outer rock lying 2^ miles from the shore.* At 12 miles from them in the same direction is a remarkable square white rock, nearly one mile from the shore, which, when the sun's rays are reflected from it, is particularly ctmspicuous. UMATILLA REEF LIGHT-VESSEL is moored in 25 fatho.ns, about 2), miles, S.W. | S., from Umatilla reef, and shows //r , dinjilrir. elecf ric, fi.rrd irhit'- lights, one from i-ach masthead, each elevated .55 feet above the sea, and visible in clear weather from a distance of Ki miles. The light-vessel is schooner-rigged, with two masts and no bow- sprit, a funnel lul fog-signai api»aratus between the nuists, ami a white circulai' gallery at each masthead under the lantern. The hull is painted red, with I' 'Kitilbc nrfm large black letters on each side, and 67 in black ligures on ea;;h bow ;md quarter. Should the electric apparatus be out of order the light-vessel will still shoAV two fixed white lights, Ijut of less j'ower than the electric lights. Fog signal is a stt-am whistle, which gives a blast rverii tliirttf sefiinds, thus : — blast, l/nvr sminifs ; sileucf, fiiinti/sereit .seoindK. DESTRUCTION ISLAND is \l mil.s long, narrow, and lies nearly parallel with tlie coast at one mih from it. It has steep white diflt'y coast, is over lOH feet high, and covered with grass, but no trees ; in the channel between it and the shore is a deptli of 12 fathoms. ♦ Si-f Admiralty chart :— C'a|M! Mendocino to Vancouver i^<land. No. 2,631 ; scale m = 0'07 of an inch. ■ 2i* BRITISH COLUMBIA. [Chap. II. LIGHT. — Dfstruftion island light iH ii flashiiifj white light, showing ixjlfi.s/i fvi'iij ten snonds, clcvatt'd 14^1 fet't tibovc high water, and should be visible in clear weather 18 miles. The lighthouse consists of a conical iron tower, SO feet high, and painted white, upper part black : with two dwellings about 1 HO yards in u north-east direction, and the fog signal building about 4.'5 yards in a north-west direction, from it ; the dwellings and fog signal buildings are painted white, with brown roofs. The fog signal is a steanj siren, which, iluring thick or foggy weather, gives blasts oi' tive seconds duration, with intervals oi Jifty- Jive seconds between the blasts. CAUTION. — As previously mentioned on page 1(1, seamen are again cautioned that when navigating the Inner waters of British Columbia, it should be ctjnstantly borne in mind that many of the main channels and most of the minor passii^'es have only been roughly examineil ; detached boulders from the broken shores, and pinnacles of rock are still frequently found. Whenever, therefore, a broad and clear channel is known to exist, there is no justification in using, without necessity, one of more doubtful character, even if there be some saving in distance ; antl a ship should always be maintained in the safest possible position in a channel, as well as when going in or out of port. SOUTH KRN SHORE OF JUAN DE FUCA STRAIT. CAPE FLATTERY, or Classet, is a remarkable point of land, and in clear weather distinctly seen 35 miles, rising gradually from the sea to a thickly wooded mountain nearly 2,000 feet high, with au irregular shaped summit, and falling again 3 or 4 miles eastward. When seen from the southward or south-west it has the appearance of an island, being separated by low land from hills of the same or greater elevation, tvhich rise again immediately southward of it.* Flattery was the name given to this cape by Cook in 1788 ; but Vancouver, in 1792, says it was known to the natives by the name of Classet. On a nearer view, the headland itself, with off-lying rocks over whicu the sea is almost constantly breaking, presents an uninviMug • Sir Adniiralty chart. Xo. 1.011, also pliiu of Duncan rock and cape Flattery on Admiralty chart, No. 2,5ai ; scale, wa=-' inclit-s. Chap. II.] CAPE FLATTERY.— DUNCAN ROCK. 27 I i uppeurauce ; it is a rugged aua-woru ciill of no grout eiovatiou, rising gradually to its more prominent feature, a densely wooded mountain. From the cape the coast trends eastwanl for 4 miles to Neeah bay, and there is generally a heavy swell and irregular titles. Tug — Sff page 184. LIGHTS.— TatOOSh island, lying half a mile N.W. from cape Flattery, is an almost perpendicular rocky islet, bare of trees, and 1(X) feet high, with some reefs extending a short distance off its western siele ; the lighthouse, known to seamen as cape Flattery light, stands on the summit of the island. From the above lighthouse (which consists of a keeper's dwelling of stone, with a white tower rising above it, surmounted by an iron lantern painted black, its height being (54: feet), is exhibiten a Ji.red irhite light, elevated 102 feet above the sea, and in clear weather should be seen ID miles. xV sector of red light of 7' is shown between the bearings S. :W° E. and S. :J2" E., covering Duncan and Duntze rocks. The light is obscured over the land from S. 73° W. to N. 1')" W., but eastward of Chibadehl rocks it is not visible west of S. (58° W. FOff Slgrnal. — A steam fog whistle is sounded for eight seconds, at intervals oi _fiftii-two ficconds, during thick weather. Telegraph and signal station.— Vessels can communicate by the International code of signals, and the station is connected by telegraph with Port Townsend. Position.— Lat. 48° 23' 1.^) N., long. 124^ 44' 10" W. Cape Beale light.— Sec page 315. Carmanah lislit.~See page 313. SwiftSUre bank, with a depth of 13 fathoms, is reported to exist in a position situated about 14^ miles N.W. by W. I \V. from cape Flattery lighthouse. H.M.S. Sivift.sin'e in 18H9 obtained a sounding of 20 fathoms in this vicinity, but the position is doubtful. Natives state that shoaler water exists. Duncan rook lies one mile N.W. | N. from Tatoosh island ; it is a few feet above water, but the sea always breaks over it. There is deep water between it and the island, but do not take the passage, iSee chart, No. 1,911. 28 JUAN DE FUCA STRAIT. [Chap. ir. il ! i il unless carried by the tidal streams into such a ])o8iti(»n as would cause danger in endeavouring to avoid it. A shoal of 4 fathoms lies south-eastward of Duncan rock with Tatt)osh island lighthouse S. by K. i K., distant 7f cables, and Duncan rock W. by N. ^ N. Duntze rook, on which is a depth of 3 iathoms, lies about a (quarter of a mile N.W. from Duncan rock., and the t-ea freijuently breaks on it. The cross sea which is created in this neighbour- hood during bad weather strongly resembles heavy breakers, extending a considerable distance acrose tlie strait. Direotions. — Those from the south wiiril or westwanl bound for Juan de Fuca strait, except the coasting' steam- vessels which all carry pilots, should make cape Flattery ; there is no inducement to hug the coast, on which a long rolling swoll frequently sets, and this swell meeting the south-easterly gaies of winter, causes a confused sea. The cape and its off^ying rocks shoukl not be approaf/hed within a distance of at least .'5 miles, as the tidal stream occasionally sets over Duncan aud Duntze rocks with great velocity (page 12) ; the currents should also be guarded against (page 11), an additional reason why these dangers should not be too closely approached. It is equally necessary when either entering or leaving the strait to avoid tht; coast of Vancouver island between port San Juan aud Bonilla point, when there is any appearance of bad weather. It is recommended to pass at the distance of at least 10 miles from the coast of the mainland southward of cape Flattery, unless working to windward against a fine northerly wind, which is frequently found during summer, when it may be safely approached, but not closer than 15 miles. When nearing the strait at night, or in thick weather, be certain of the latitude ; and as rocks lie some distance off the coast southwanl of cape Flattery, and it is therefore dangerous to approach, it is safer to be in error to the northward than to the southward. The coast of Vancouver is comparatively bold, the bank of soundings extends a considerable distance from the land, and the light on cape Beale is visible 19 miles. The current that is r ..dily found setting across the entrance of the strait to the south-east should be particularly guarded against. See page 11. I S^r chart, Nu. l.Ull. Chfip. Ti.] DTRECTTONS. 2y of Ihe When making tlio strait in bad weather it will bo more desirable to run in and seek shelter than to remain outside. If the land has been made either to the southward of cape Flattery or on the Vancouver island shore within a moderate distance of the entrance, or if the latitude can be relied upon within 2 or ',\ miles, it will be advissible to run for the strait. Tiie powerful lijjfht on Tatoosh islaml will, unless in very thick weather, or ion, be seen, and as soon as a vessel is actually within the stniit there is eoniparativeiy smooth water, with suflicient sea room, then run boldly up the centre for Race light, or if preferred, by the assistance of that on Tatoosh island, maintain position in the strait. When Tatoosh island light bears westward of W.S.W., it is obscured by the land about Neeali I)ay, and Uace island light is obscured by Heechey liead bearing eastward of K. by N. ; therefore, when either of these lights are obscured by the land before men- tioned, the distance from either coast will be accurately judged, and in the latter case a shij) will be getting too close to the northern shore. * When intending to go outside the Race islands, pass the land about Beechey head at the distance of 2 miles. Steam-vessels taking Race passage pass Church point at the distance of about half a mile, and keep the land aboard about that distance until up with Kentinck island, whtai the latter should be closed and kept within a (juarter of a mile, or just outside the kelp. The passage between Bentinck island and the Vancouver coast is choked with rocks, and stroi g tidal streams set through. Coming from the westwani with a heavj westerly or north-west gale, thick weather, and uncertain of the latitude, it would be l)rudent to "lie to" at not less than ;',() miles from the entrance of the strait, or on the edge of the bank of soundings. These gales r'eldom last more than 12 hours, and if they shift towards the south- west the weather will clear, when bear up for the strait. With a south-east gale it is recommended to close the land, as smoother water will be obtained, and the bank of soundings oil! the Vancouver island shore will indicat*' pretty accurately the distance from the land. Gales from this <|uarter sometimes con- tinue in the winter season for iU) hours, and after striking soundings on the edge of the bank in 1)0 fathoms, and carried them into (10, put her head S.W., and there will be plenty of room for drift. -Sr chart, No. 1,911. 30 JUAN DR FUCA STRAIT. [Chap. TI. 1: r I It is of great importance when making the strait during bad weather to strike the outer edge of the bank of soundings, as the ship's distance from the land will then be accurately known. After running 20 miles eastward the depth increases from 55 to SO and 90 fathoms, which latter dei)thn, if ihv lead has not been previously kept going, might be mistaken for the outrr edge of the bank. In a sailing-vessel and one of those dense fogs which sometimes hang over the entrance of the strait (page 7), do not close the land, but stand off sufficiently far to avoid l)eing set by the southerly current too near cape Flattery. If in a steamer and, having made the land or light on Tatoosh island, and certain of the position, get the northern or Vancouver island shore aboard, when, with the assistance of the chart and lead, feel the way in. When H or 10 miles eastward of Port San Juan there is anchoi-ing ground in 12 fathoms one mile from the shore, and if the fog is very dense a strsftiger should anchor ; it must be remarked, however, that not unfrequently the weather is clear a few miles within the strait while the entrance is totally obscured. \ NEEAH BAY is formed between Koitlah point and Weaddah island ; the latter, half a mile long in a N.W. and S.E. diiection, is narrow and covered with pine trees. Koitlah point is 4 mile? E.N.E. from the lighthouse on Tatoosh island. The bay offers a safe and convenient anchorage to those meeting S.W. or S.K. gales at the entrance of the strait, and is sheltered from W. by H. round by south to N.E. The western shore is steep and cliffy, but a red" extends more than one cable off" Koitlah point, and a sand-bank which dries, extends off a (juarter of a mile from the shore abreast the cliffs. The head of the bay is a l()w sandy beach, on which the surf generally breaks. On the eastern side of the bay oft' the south- west side of Waaddah island, a rocky ledge and shoal water extends ){ cables, and the holding ground is not so good on the island si<le.* Ligrht. — A^/f./w/ tvhitc lantern light is shown from a white post on Baaddah (Mee ua) point, IG feet above high water. Whistle buoy.— A buoy, painted red, with N. B. on it in white letters, and fitted with an automatic whistle, is moored in about 22 fathoms at the entrance of Neeah bay, with the north end of * See Adminlty plan of Neeah bay, scale m = 2-0 inches, on chart, No. 1,911. Chap. Ti.] NRFAH BAY.— OALLAM RAY. :^i rt'iist the ,Uh- MKlS IpORt Ihite lont ll of Waadclah island S.E., 4 cabhis, and Koitlah point, S.W. by W. ; the tidal streams set strongly past the buoy. Anchorage. — A good berth will be found in Neeah bay, in ('» fatlioins sandy bottom, with the outer point of Waaildah island bearing N.K. by N., and Koitlah point \V. by N. ; a short distance within this position kelp grows in large patches all over the bay, and some care is necessary in '(electing a berth. Large sailing-vessels may anchor in 7 or K fathoms a little outside the above bearings, in the centre of the bay, with the outer point of the island bearing N.E. by K. Sailing-vessels, during gales frtmi south-west or west, "lie to" under the south shore of the strait inside Neeah bay, in preference to anchoring in Neeai> l)ay. Directions. — Leave this bay on any indicatioji of a n»irth-we8t wind ; it too late, and unable to weather Waaddah island, run between it and the main witli the assistance of the chart ; the ])a8sage is H cables wide, and the least water 21 feet ; be careful to avoid the ledge off the south-west end of Wsiaddah, and in hauling out give the eastern side of that island a berth of at least a quarter of a mile. Vessels have ridden out north-west gales close to the south-east end of Waaddah in G fathoms, but it is more prudent to get out iinto the strait at tlie commencement of the gale. D""'"^ strong westerly or south-west gales, or after they have been blowing ovaside, a considerable swell rolls into the bay, which renders it at such times a somewhat disiigreeable though not unsjife anchonige ; small vesstds may go close in and get smooth water, even among the kelp which grows in 4 and T) fathoms. A life-saving: apparatus hii8 been established in Neeah bay. Tides. — It is high water at full and change in Neeah bay at Oh. '^'^m. ; springs rise 7.^ feet, neaps rise C;| feet. CALLAM BAY is 15 miles K. i S. from Net'-ah l)ay, the inter- vening coast b^'ing nearly straight, and the shore boh'.. The only remarkable feature is Klahosloh (^Seal rock), l.')0 feet high, lying a short distance ott' shore at 2 miles eastward of Waaddah island. If there is an e:>8terly or south-east wind, there is temporary anchorage and shelter in the centre of the bay in from «S to 1(1 fathoms. Callam Ste chart, No. l,i)ll. :^2 JUAN DE PUCA HTRATT. [Ohap. ir. i J ' bay iB easily rocogiiiHotl by Slip point, itH oaHtern bluff, which is tho weBtoru termiiiiition <tt' ii bold coiist rid},'!', about 1,000 tVet hiKh. The COAST from Cullam bay coutiuueH in an easterly direction for S milcH to Pillar point, so called from its terminating' in a bare coluMinar-Hliaped rock, soniewhiil remarkable, from its contrast to the „'eneral characteristics of tlie country (Ihiekly wooded from summit to water line*), wlitM-e few objects pret-cnt themselves by which seamen may accurately fix th»Mr positions. Tlu' coast on the eastern side o<" this point forms a small bij,dit, in which there is a considerable stream and an Indian villa;,'e, iind then trends E. by N. for 17 n)iles to Striped peak ; a small river, the I.yre, enters the strait just (eastward of how point, 7 miles westward from the peak. Striped peak ■at hi rka))le fi •ipoil peak IS rather remarkaDle troni a landslij) occurrinf? down its face; at 1 [, miles westward from the peak, and one-third of a mile off the west point of ('rescent bay (merely an indentation) lies a rock with 15 f«'et over it, and on which the sea breaks at low water. This rock is marked by a red nun buoy. FRESHWATER BAY, at :\ miles eastward from Striped penk, Ix'tween Observatory and Anf,'ele8 points, is neai'ly one mile deep, and more than 2 miles wide, in an east and west direction, and the depth varies from (5 to 12 fathoms. Observatory jjoint has several rocks extending a short distance oft" it ; the western side of the bay is a high bold shore. Ange' js point, the eastt^rn entrance point, is low ; the river Elwha flowing through it, forms a delta, and has caused a l)ank with a depth of water on it varying from 2 fathoms close in shore, to 10 fathoms at the distance of one mile. There is anchorage within the line of the points in from (5 to i) fathoms. PORT ANGELES is 7 miles eastward from the eastern point of Freshwater bay, the intervening coast forming rather a deep indenta- tion to the southward, off which as little as '.) fathoms is found nearly one mile from the shore. The north side of the port is bounded by one of those low narrow sand or shingle spits which are a characteristic feature of the country ; this spit, which is named Kdiz hook or False Dungenes^, is coveied with coarse grass, and the sea sometimes washes over it. It curves from a high blufl" in an K.N.E. direction for nearly 15 miles, and forms a large and gootl harbour. At 2 miles from the shore 14 fathoms will be found N.N.W. from that part of the spit which joins the mainland ; at night do not go within this depth. r iSee chart, No. 1,911. I [Chap. II. hich is tho hi«h. y direction <^ in !i bare contrast to mkUmI from niHclvcH l»y oa.st on the 1 there is a (Is E. by N. , enters tlie the peak. rrinf? down '-third of a Uution) lies hnv water. triped peak, mih' deep, on, and the I has several of the bay ce point, is la, and has 1 2 fathoms There is loms. rn point of 'P indenta- luiid nearly low narrow le country ; lis covered li curves iiiles, and I the shore [pit which Ohaj). II.] FRRSHWATRR AND NKW DrNOKNRWH HAYX. X\ On the north, or rti)it side, the water is deep, varying from 1.') to IJO fathoms ; but southwanl of a line ilmwii through the centre there is »)xcellent anchor.ige in fr«)m 7 to 10 fathoms in any part of the port. The outer or eastern end of the spit is steep-to, and may be rounded close to, after which the port extends for 2.^ miles in a westerly dir»»ction, by more than one mile in breadth. Although open to easterly winds, they do not blow home. On the southern shore is the town Port Angeles, where a wharf extends 7tK) feet into the bay, with a T-head KM) feet long, and a depth of l(»i feet at the end. There are other wharves, alongside of one of which the depth is 22 feet. Fresh water is to be obtained from streams on the south side of the port. LIGHT. — Ediz hook. — From a square white lighthouse, situated at about WO feet from the extremity of Ediz hook, is exhibited, at 42 feet above the sea, a /iwi'd w/iih' light, visible in clear weather 12 miles. The lantern is painted black. Fogr Sigrnal. — During thick or foggy weather, a bell is sounded once, at intervals of fifteen second,^, from a position 108 yards N.W. by N. from Ediz hook lighthouse. Storm and weather signals are shown at Port Angeles. See page 15. Tide. — It is high water, full and change, at Ih. Sim. Springs rise, .5^ feet. NEW DUNGENESS BAY. -The shore from Port Angeles gradually curves N.E., and about 8 or 9 miles from Ediz hook, another long low narrow sand spit covered with grass extends from the blnft' shore in a general N.N.E. direction for ii^ miles, forming the north-western side of New Dungeness bay.* Dungeness shoal of 2 fathoms extends half a mile N.N.E. from the end of the spit, and a heavy tide rip runs over it at the change of the stream. A red buoy is moored at the extreme of this shoal. On the inside, one mile from the eastern extremity, another narrow sand spit extends 1^ miles southward towards the main shore, forming a large inner shoal bay with a narrow opening, through which the water passes as over a rapid ; at low tide abreast this point is a small * Scr Admiralty chart ; — Admiralty inlet and Puget sound, No. 1,947 ; scale, m := o-r)2 of an iaoh. HO U»48 C M JUAN DK PUOA HTRAIT. [Chap. II. Htream, on the wPHtorn aiilcof which isahlufT (•() foot hipfh, and ni)on it iH a lar^'c villas' of the ('lallsiin IndiauH. FrHHh \vat*ir inay Jm* obtained in abmuhmce at tho above Htreain ; but l>oatH innnt obtain their supply at b»w tide, and come out when tho tide has Huftioiently risen. The shore eastward of tho stream is low, swampy, and covered "With trees and brush, and off it are tixtensive mud flats, which uncover at low water for over half a mile, and extend to Wsiiihington or Hutlds harbour ; ahoal water exists for some distance outtiide these Hats. LIGHT.— New Dungreness.— From a conical liffhthous*', the upper half black, the lower half white, surmounted by a red lantern, situated at about 2 cables from the extremity of the si)it, is exhibited, at UM) feet al>ov(' the sea, a Jixed ir/iite liKht, visible in clear weather IG miles. Pogr Sigrnal. — During thick or foggy weather, a whistle is sounded from a position l.')0 yards north-eastward from the lighthouse, in the following manner: — A blast of six secondx duration, succeeded by an interval of twelve seconds, then a blast lasting tJiree seconds followed by an interval of thiity-nine seconds. Telegraph oable. — A submarine cable extends from New Dungeness to Clover point (Vancouver island) ; there \3 a small house on the spit, one mile S.W. of the lighthouse, wih t! e words, " cable crossing," on it. Anchorage. — The usual and best anchorage in New Dungeness bay is to bring the lighthouse to bear N. \ W. half a mile distant, in 8 fathoms, sandy bottom. With the lighthouse bearing N.W. by N. three-quarters of a mile distant, the same depth and bottom are found ; from this position a vessel can readily get under weigh and clear the point. A south-east wind drawing out of the strait blows directly into this bay, but the bottom will hold any vessel with good ground tackle ; the only difficulty will be to get the anchors out of the mud after riding a couple of days to a gale. Tides. — It is high water, full and change, at New Dungeness at 3h. 3m. ; springs rise 5 feet. WASHINGTON HARBOUR.— The coast from New Dunge- ness trends E.S.E. for nearly 7 miles to Washington harbour. Set chjirt, No. 1,947. [Ohap. II. 1, anil upon er iiiay J>e innt obtHin rtuttifitmtly id covered iats, which Vnahington ice ottUiide thonsc, the red lantern, the rtplt, is , vittihh' in e is sonnded lOuse, in the eeded by an ids followed from New \s a small t! e words, Dungeness distant, in |N.W. by N. are found ; id clear the |w8 directly )od ground )f the mud mgeness at. ?w Dunge- harbour. Ohaj). IT.] \E\V ntTNOKNKSS.— AOMlRAr.TY INI.KT. :<:. The «'ntrj\nce is almost cloHt'd by a Imitr Hiiml spit fxlcndin^j froin tlie eastern side, leaving' a narri»w cliaiiiicl with only 2 t'ulhoniH, whieh tleepens within to V,\ fatlionis ; tlierefore, as a harbour, it is of little iinportanci* wh(*n there are ho many good ones in the neii^'hbourhood, PORT DISCOVERY, where Vancouver anchored and refitted his ships, anil from whence he commenced his exploration of these regions in May 17'.I2, is an extensive inlet trending in a south-easterly direction for (5 miles, with an averages breadth of 1^ miles ; the general depth of water is from 20 to lU) fathoms, but an anchorage may be had on the west side 1^ miles within the entrance in IT) fathoms, ';lose to the shore, also near the lunul of the port. A spit ext(!nd8 a short distance oH' Clallam point, the western l»oint of entrances ; and when working up, the prominent points should not be closely api)roacheJ, as the soil breaking away from the neighbouring difVs has formed a bank off most of them. Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in Port Discovery at 2h. 30m, ; springs rise 7 feet. Protection Island li(*s immediately off the entrance of the Port Discovery, and shelters it from north-west winds. The highest part is near the western end and is 21.5 feet above the sea, but the fir trees by which it is covered make it look much higher. The coast is rery steep, and the eastern part of the island is cultivated. Dallas bank, on which vessels may anchor in from 4 to 10 fathoms, extends 2^ miles N.N.W. from the island. The north-west side of the island is shoal for Ih miles off, and there is a li-fathoms patch, named Dallas shoal, 2\ miles N.W. from the north point ; reefs extend from the west, and south points about one mile, but there are clear deep channels between it and the main ; that to'the southward being one mile in breadth, and that to the eastwanl H miles. A black buoy is moored on the reef, extending from the south- western end of the island. Libby rock, with a depth of 11 feet, lies half a mile N.W. of Middle point ; northward of the rock a red nun buoy, numbered 4, is moored in S fathoms. ADMIRALTY INLET.— At 14 miles E.N.E. from New Dungeness light, is the entrance to Admiralty inlet, between Wilson Sfe chart, No. 1,947. SO 11948 C 2 •M\ ADMIRALTY INLET. [Chap. TL SM t m point on the sonth and Partrulgo point on the north, the hotter a remarkiil)h» sloping? cliff of a wliitisli colour; and hen' commences that extensive and singular sciries of inland navigation, which penetrates the continent in a general southerly direction for nearly 90 miles. These waters were first explored by Vancouver, -ind have since undergone a more detailed examination by the United States Government.* General description. — Under special names the great body of water now known to the couiuiercial world under tlie general designation of Puget sound may be described as a series of vast interior canals giving unsurpassed facilities for navigation in the very heart of a prosperous section of the country. Puget sound, in the broad acceptation of the term, lies between latitudes iT 3' N. and IS 1 1 N. ; and between longitudes 122' HV W. and 12;r 10' W. Admiralty inlet extends in a geneml S.S.K. direction for about 60 miles, to the southern end of Vashon island ; with an average width of ;V^ miles, and iiumeroiis branches from it on both sides iorm other straits, channels, bays, and harbours. At 16 miles within the entrance Hood canal opens out southwanl, and 9 miles further Possession sound 0))ens northward and runs to the north-westward behind Whidbey island and leads into Rosario strait through Deception pass. At the sonth end of Vashon islar I the Puget sound of Vancouver commences ; the channels decrease in width to one or 2 miles, but they ramify by eight principal arms through an area of 22 miles square. The extreme north-western avm, named Case's inlet, reaches within 2 miles of the head of Hood canal, and between them lies comparativtdy low ground and a large lake. The shores of these inlets are generally bluffs, ranging from 50 to 500 feet in height, and their tops are covered with trees and thick undergrowth to the very edges. It is ditlieult to recognise the different points from the sameness in the appearance in the shores. The depth of v/ater is everywhere great and anchoniges are ditlieult to obtain near the shore. The navigation of Puget so\ind should not be attempted without a pilot unless well acquainteil with the various channels. * Sfr Admiralty chart :— Ailmiralty inlet and I'mfet soiiml. No. 1.947: w!»le, m = U'52 inobtM. Chaji. II.] (;emer/.l descuiption.— wil.sox point. 37 lorages are (1 withont a 1,947 ; wjile, Partridge bank, ii ridge about one mile wide, extends Ii| miles in a W.N.W. and E.S.E. direction, situated W.N.W. of Partridge point, its eastern end being IJ miles from the point. The shoalest part, a small patch of 2| fathoms, lies [\\ miles W. by N, ^ N. from Partridge point, and 3', miles S.S.E. ^ E. from the lighthouse on Smith island. Depths of 4 and .') fathoms extend one mile to the north-westward cf the patch, and the water then deepens to 7 fathoms, this latter tlepth being found at a tlistance of 2^ miles from Smith island ; to the south-eastward of the patch the depths are 7 and 1) fathoms. A black buoy is moored on the north- west nrn edge of the patch of 2^ fathoms. WILSON POINT.— This point forms the western point of the entrance to Admiralty ii^^let. It is also the north-western point of the entrance of Port Townsend. The high yellow clay clitrs surmounted by forest trend from Port Discovery to Port Townsend, ..nd reach a height of -iW or 50() feet ; they are very steep under a hill 250 feet high, about half a mile westward of Wilson point. This point stretches out towards Admiralty head and is formed of low sandy hillocks covered with coarse grass. Between Middle point and Wilson jioint the 5-fathoms line is less than a quarter of a mile distant, except near Wilson point, where it extends half a mile over a very rough, ntcky, and shingly bottom, with a field of kelp. The kelp tield is well off the point on the north side of the bight just westward of the low extremity. During ebb tide a very strong eddy sets eastward ahmg shore from Middle point, and even as far as Port Discovery. Vessels working out from Port Townsend, with the strong summer winds, hold well untler the south-east shore of Wilson point. LIGHT.— Wilson point.— From the top of the light-keeper's dwelling (white) situated on Wilson point is exhibited, at an elevation of .')3 feet above the sea, i,\ fixed irhifr light showing a reft Jlanh every fwenti/ seconds, which should be seen in clear weather from a distance of 12 miles.- Fogr Sigrnal. — a steam-whxstle giving a blast of eight seconds duration each iniimli' is sounded in thick or foggy weather from Wilson point. &>4ch»rt, No. 1,047. 38 ADMIRALTY JNLET. [Chap. 11. Quimper peninsula.— Bet wrou l\»rt Dincoveiy jintl I'orl TowuBend licH ii i)eninHuhi ii;'er;if,'iu^' :\ miU'H in breiulth and 10 miles louti. it is undulating land ami has many large farms. Partridge point is the western i)()»nt «)f Whidby island, antl tht! eastern boundary of .Jiinn de Fuca strait. Tht^ seaward slojje is very steep aiul shows large areas of sand and sandy soil. The coast line is lev,;) on the summit, which is covered with spruce, lir, and cedar. There ;ire two noticeable cultivated farms on the shore jibout ){ miles to the northward of the point. The jMjint is so rounding that it is not easily recognised on coming from the westward, bat from the south and north it is well marked and prominent. Its face is comi)osed of yellow sand, which, l)eing blown up the hill by the strong west winds, has formed a very peculiar ridge on the outer face of the top. This is bo narrow that it can hardly be travelled, and in many places it is 3.') feet above the ground ijiside ; yet being overgrown with bushes the ridge is now l)ernianent. The highest part of the point is about 2->i^t feet above high water. Although the point is (juite bold, yet drops suddenly, that, in foggy or smoky weather those running by the lead may be uue.v- pectedly upon a boulder reef which exti'nds half a mile from the point and is marked by kelp. Oil' the end of the reef in '> to 10 fathoms the tidal streams are very str«mg and there are overfalls at the changes. A red bell buoy is placed in la fathoms about one mile from the point. ADMIRALTY HEAD lies H miles E.S.E. from i'ai-tridge point, and directly oj)po.site the entrance to Port Townsend. It is a nearly vertical, rocky clill", HO feet high, the sunimit is marked by the cluster of white lighihouse buildings ; it falls away to the nortli to low marshy ground and a large lagoon. Light. — From a light-keeper's dwelling (white) 41 feet high, situated on Adiniralty head, N.K. by K. distant ;51 miles from Wilson point, is exhibited, at an elevation of 108 fee above the sea, a fi.rt'd white light, which sliould )«' visible in clear weather from a distance of Ili miles. Position.— Lat. 48- '.♦ i:> N.. long. 122" 40 35 W. &v oluMTt, Nu. I,il47. n Chap. II.] rARTHrncjK Point. — pokt townhbnd. .39 reiiius are Admiralty bay is formed by a sweep of the whore line, forming a semicircle with a diameter of more than '^ mileH. It is only used occasionally for anchorage just to the ejistward of the lijjrhthoune, where the bottom is hard and sandy in irregular ridges, and with depths of from 15 to 2.5 fathoms. It is an uncomfortable anchorage, for it is open to the full sweep of the south-easters, and at all times the current is running out. This current is so strong that even in the summer winds a vessel rides to it. With the wind from the southward a vessel would lie in the trough of the sea. Sailing-vessels should not approach Admiralty head or bay, l)ecause in calm weather they encounter the strong and irregular currents near it, or they may be embayed under the ejistern shore. PORT TOWNSEND is just within the entrance of Admiralty inlet, now almost universally known as Puget sound, and is a port of entry for the Puget sound district. It is a safe harbour, l»ut from its extent it is subject to a disagreeable sea in heavy winds, and with a strong south-easter, landing is oftentimes impracticable, and the sea dangerous for boats.* The shores of the port are mmlerately high cliffs, with sonu- valleys ; the summits are covered with forest trees, except near the town. Rook. — A vessel dniwing 18 feet is reported to have struck on a rock from which the Custom-house bears N, 52° W. distant I}] cables, Hudson point is a broad, low gravel spit, stretching out a (juarter of a mile from the high cliffs of the town Port Townsend. Part of the town is built on this low point, and the custom-house is but a short distance from the wharves. A large siiwmill is on the extremity of the point ; extensive wharves project from the front of the town into deep water, and lan<ling is readily and safely made. A (juarter of a mile off these wharves there is a deep channel carry- ing 10 to 16 fathoms of water, through which the streams run witli considerable velocity. Within recent years a tthoal has extended 250 to 300 yards north- wanl of the point, marked on the outer edge by a spar buoy in 24 feet of water. Kiiisut or Long harbour penetrates Marrowstone island. At high water this harbour communicates by a crooked boat channel, 6 miles long, with Oak cove, at the sonthwartl. »t * See Admiralty plan :— Fort Townsond and Kiiisut harbour, Nu. I,7tf2 ; scalo, B H'O inohM. !■: t ■ 1; 40 ADMIUALTY INLET. LIOHT. — A jLved red light is exiiihitml ti'om Hudson point, elevated 12 feet above the nea. [Chap. II. white post on Kala point, on the western side of the bay, and within 1^ miles of the head, is a low point. Half a mile southward of Kala point a small stream, named Chimikim creek, opens between two high, steep cliffs ; the shoal water lies a quarter of a mile outside this mouth. Walan point is a very low and marshy projection ou the eastern side of the bay. Between it and Kala point the bay is one mile wide, and the depth 14 and 15 fathoms, over soft sticky bottom. Directions. — Those bound into Fort Townsend from Juan de Fuca strait must keep clear of the rocky shoal off the northern side of Wilson point, but as soon as Hudson point is opened by Wilson point the latter may be passed within 120 yards with a depth of 20 fathoms, hard bottom. When abreast of Wilson point a steamship should steer S.E. ^ S. to clear the shoal ground north-west of Hu<i8on point ; but a sailing-vessel may keep a little inside this cjy-irse until within half a mile of Hudscn point, and then gradually keep away about a quarter of a mile from the siiore in from 5 to 10 fathoms, over hard bottom, and as the point open;^ run quite close, with the summer wind directly offshore, to save making a tack. Keep along about half a mile to the S.W., par-'-llc! with the city front, and anchor anywhere off the wharves in from 10 to 12 fathoms, and a quarter of a mile distant. In winter anchor furthtr out, to clear Hudson point in getting under way with a south-easter. When sailing-vessels are coming down the sound bound into this port with the ebb stream, they should pass Marrowstone i)oint nearly three-quarters of a mile before heading in for the town, and so avoid a very strong e<ldy which comes out of the bay along and under the high shore westward of tliis point. If the wind be light anil the ebb strong, pass the point closely ; run along the outside of the tide rip, and try to get upo:i the Mid-channel bank as soon as practicable, to avoid being set up the sound by the next Hood stream. In summer, sailing-vessels not empl(»ying tugs will frequently drift about the entrance for days without a breath of wind and with very strong streams. In winter, the south-east storms blow with great violence in this high latitvide, and a vessel must move to an anchorage under the cliffs of the old military post to get a comfortable berth, in 10 fathoms, soft bottom. H li Ser chart, No. 1,792. b ■^ f' ■; ,'; • B [Chap. II. itu post ou in 14 miles iila point a high, steep I mouth. the eastern s one mile jttom. n .J nan de •fhern «itle by Wilson t depth of steamship of Hudson ^•se until keep away .0 fathoms, B, with the Ceep along md anchor (juarter of dson point into this »int nearly Id rio avoid under the rI the ebb tide rip, Iticable, to Intly drift kvith very [ith great i^e to an to get a rhap. II.] rORT TOWNSBND.— NODULE POINT. 41 Tides. — It is high water, full and change, approximately at '.\h. 49m. ; springs rise 5^ feet, neaps ') feet ; they are, however, irregular. Repairs. — Small repairs can be effected to machinery up to 700 I.H.P. ; four tons of inetal can be run at one time ; cylinders of 50 inches and 12 feet long can be cast and bored ; boilers can be made ; shafting of 12 inches can be turned. Masts and boats can be built. Weathe? SigrnalS are shown on the United States system, ^cc page 15. MARROWSTONE POINT is a low sandy point, extending iiOO yards from the bluff, and forms an indentation on its southern face, where anchorage may be had in 12 fathoms, with an uddy invariably running northward. LIGHT. — X fixed red light is shown from a white post and shed on Marrowstone point, elevated 15 feet above the sea. Fogr bell sounds a double blow every fifteen seconds. Craven rook lies close to the shore, about 1.', miles southward of Marrowstone point. Bush point is on the eastern shore of Admiralty inlet ; it is low imd projects half a mile from the general direction of the shore, and has one or two clumps of trees and bushes, with low ground behind anil the ground rising therefrom anil densely wooded. There is deep water close to the point, and anchorage may be 'lad ou the northern side in 15 fathoms, sandy bottom, but the strefnisare strong and irregular.* LIGHT. — A fixed white light, elevated 25 feot above the sea, is exhibited on Bnsh point. Nodule point, abreast Bush point, on *ne opposite shore, is a roimding bluff point, covered with tretrt, 1^ miles North of the southern end of the island which forms the north-east shore of Oak bay. Directly off this point there is goo<l anchorage in 12 to 15 fathoms. •.*r chart, No. 1, 947. 42 ADMIRALTY INLET. [Chap. 11. Oak h&'J opens north-westward and extends nearly to Port Townsead. li has blutl' shores nearly all around, the south-west face beiuf,' limestone. When beating out of the inlet with a favourable stream do not work into the bay for the sake of a long tack. Basalt point, the south entrance point of Oak bay, is a rounding jagged point, covered with trees to the shore line and rising to a moderate hillock covered with wood. Klas rock lies a quarter of a mile N. by E. | E. of Basalt point and the s;ime distance offshore. It is a patch of rocks 17.5 yards in extent and marked with kelp. There is deep water around this danger and K't fathoms between it and the shore. MUTINY BAY, on the eastern side of A.dmiralty inlet, in the deep indentation between Hush point and Double bluff, has a narrow bank of 1 1 fathoms in its northern part, which affords good fishing. Double bluff is a promontory one mile wide and 1^ miles long, between Mutiny bay on the west and Useless bay on the east. The cliffs are JKH) to 400 feet in height, and the greater part of the surface back from the face is covered with trees, but near the water it is destitute of trees, except one large clurnp, which marks it con- spicuously in going up the sound. Useless bay. — On the eastern side of Double bluff is nearly r> miles broad at the mouth and 2^ miles deep to the north-eastward. It lies broad open 8.W. The shores are in part bluff and in part low, with a fringe of marsh nearly around the whole bay. At the head of the bay there are two long narrow sand spits, behind which lies Deer lagoon, a large shallow sheet of water, full of marsh isles and having a shoal outlet between the sand spits. At the eastern part of this lagoon is the settlement of Useless. Scatchet head, the south-western point of Whidbey island, is visible for 25 miles from the southward. ].t is a double-headed promontory with a length of 6 miles and aa extreme breadth of 2| miles between Useless bay and Possession sound. The two heads are bold yellow clay cliffs ; the eastern rises about 300 feet above the water, and is covered wit^i wood, and the western one rises 140 feet or more. The western head has become locally known as the Fai. 3 Scatchet. Off the base of the cliffs there are seen great erratic granite boulders. See chart, \o. 1/J47. [Chap. II. Chai). II.] OAK BAY.— rORT LUDLOW. 4:^ ly to Port south-west et with a of a long 'A rounding rising to a point and > yards in poimd this liet, in the a a narrow >d iishing. niles long, east. The ;he surface crater it is cs it con- is nearly •eastward. |d in part bay. At |8, behind of marsh le eastern fsland, is -headed leadth of 38 about 1 western locally lere are Possession point. — The lower pari in a nearly vertical white clay cliff ; thu bank rtlopes at an aujjle of 4iV, with a partially broken whitiHii front, until it reaches I4»> feet elevation. There are a few scattered trees on the lower part of the slope, and the summit level is covered with them. The shore under the eastern side of the head is bordered by a low narrow beach. The eastern shore of the entr.mce to l*ossessi<m sound abreast this head rises from a low narrow beach with decitluous trees on the lowi-r slope and Oregon pine on the summit. Yellow blutt's show iu patches through the trees. Between the two heads there is a shallow bight running back U miles, nsimed (Jultus bay. It is in part overflowed at high tide, and then presents tin- appearance of a bay. A sand bank and shoal 'extends nearly ;{ miles to the southward, with the brea<lth of the heads as a base. Off the eastern head a strong under-current runs into Possession sound, and a current setting to the westward at all times of tide. Off the south side of Possession point, on the line of 3 fathoms, is a rock awash at the lowest tides. It is about 2.50 yards off the front of the cliffs. PORT LUDLOW. — Southward of Basalt point and 2 miles W.S.W. of Foulweather bluff' is the opening to Port Ludlow on the western side of the entrance to Hood canal. This bay has a broad entrance open towards the N.N.E. The coast is in part low, broken bluff", with a gently rising country behind, covered with Oregon pine. Inside Sawmill point the bay affords good anchorage in t» to S fathoms, over soft nmd, for half a mile to the southward and westward. This small basin is completely lanillocked, and is protected from gales from every quarter by the high land and high trees about it. Tiila point is a bluff' head, covered on top with Oregon pine. From this point there is a bar of hard sand nearly a <iuart«jr of a mile wide within the ')-fathoms line, stretching in an outward curve to Colvos rocks, which lie one-third the distance from Basalt point to Tala point. The ;5-fathoms curve stretches nearly half a mile, with a \ndih of a quarter of a mile, from Tala point to the northward, reaching to the black buoy ; the bottom is hard sand. .Sr charts Vo. 1.947. 44 ADMIRALTY INLKT. [Chap. 11. OolvOS rocks are a cluster of three rocks ; the nearest one to the shore lies nearly half a mile S.E. of Basalt point. It is 25 feet high and of small extent. There is deep water around the north- west rock, but a lonj? shoal stretches south-east from the largest. The bottom around is rock and hard siind. From these rocks there is a bar of less than ') fathoms reaching in an outward curve towards Tala point. There is very shoal ground for 250 yards southward from the south-east Oolvos rock, and from this there is a long tail of hard sandy bottom stretching half a mile towards the red buoy. Abreast the Colvos rocks, and nearly a qtiarter of a mile from the shore, there is a large rock, named Snake rock, 150 yards in extent and just awash at high tide. There is a narrow lane of W fathoms water just inside of it. Directions. — The deepest channel into Port Ludlow lies outside Klas rock, and between the inner Colvos rock and Snake rock, where the channel is 600 yards wide between the 5-fathoms lines, and has Irt fathoms, over sticky bottom. Thence everything is clear to the head of the bay, gradually reducing the depth to S and 7 fathoms inside Saw Mill spit, and having good water under each shore, but the better water is under the western shore. There is a broad fore- shore, or low water beach, under the eastern shore. The usual channel is between the Colvos rocks anil Tala point, crossing the bar in 4| fathoms, over hard sandy bottom, between the red and black buoys. "•ii FOULWEATHER BLUFF.— This is one of the most notice- able of the many clitt's in Puget sound. It is the northern extremity of a peninsula which separates Admiralty inlet from the entrance to Hood canal. The northern face is nearly vertical sandy clay cliffs about 225 feet high, and covered on the summit with firs and a very dense undergrowth. It slopes toward the east to a bluff 40 feet high, but on the side next to Hood canal the cliff is steep. A rock awash at the lowest tides lies off the bluff, a little eastward of the middle of the face, and it fathoms is found outside this danger. It is intended to place a buoy outside of the rock in 5 fathoms. Point No Point is low and just above high water, with a gully and small stream open just at the western part. To the sonthward Hec uhiurt, No. 1,»47. rhnp. TT.] PORT LUnLOW.— PORT MADISON. 45 tlip shore ih nearly straight for 10 milefl, witii increartiiiK height i<> tiie clitt'fl, and ji low narrow raai-rthy line under them to Pilot point, 2.^ miles distant. The land behind it is 2(K> or 'Mn) feet high and moderately wooded. Under the south side of the point there is good anchorage in 10 fathoms. LIGHT.— On Point No Point, a Ji.ied white light is exhibited at an elevation of 27 feet above the sea, and visible in clear weather from a distance of 10 miles. The lighthouse is a square wliite tower with a black lantern. Fog" signal. — A bell is struck every fen seiotuis. Apple Tree cove lies 6 miles S.E. by S. of Point No Point. From '» to 12 fathoms, over sticky mud bottom, are found fully half a mile fnnn the shore, and a depth of tl fathoms is carried well into the cove. The head of the cove is \i, miles from the j)oint, and vessels may avoid adverse currents by anchoring on the muddy bank. The head of the bay is marshy ; no fresh water is obtainable here. Edmund point.— Directly abreast of Apple Tree cove, on the east side of the inlet or sound, is Edmund point. It is a low, rounding point with a lagoon inside it. There is a blufl' to the southward. Wells point, south of Edmund point, is low and extends from the high bluff behind it. President point and Jefferson point.— On the western sidt- of the sound, and on the northern side of the entrance to Port Madison, there is moderately high, l)luff shore, the land rising behind it and covered with trees. This southern face of Jefferson point is a low cliff in i)lace8. Stretching off the shore between President point and Jefferson iK)int for more than half a mile there is a 9-fathoms bank which affords excellent anchorage when drifting with light airs and having adverse streams. Close under the south side and extending into ,5 fathoms there is a compact mass of kelp. PORT MADISON is broad and deep, ranging from So fathoms at the south-east part to 20 fathoms at the north-west part. The northern shores of the bay are broken white cliffs and intervening low beaches. The western shore is moderately low cliffs, with the white buildings of the Indian reservation at the Sr-r- chart, No. 1.947. \> ■ 1 I I in ADMinATiTY TNLRT. [Olmp. TT. <'Htranc»» to Afpito )MiHHa<,'«'. Th«' south HhoroHure broken rliM's, exc«'|>t iit the Hutraiicf U> Port Miuliwui dock. Tho millH an; halt' i\ mile iiisi(l<> the iiorth-euBt point of tlif t-ntrancie, with anij»l'> whaif faciliti«is and moorinj,' doli)hiiiH. Navigrable depths. — The ehimnel is narrow, and has a deptli of 13 feet. ()utsi(h^ tiie entrance to this Inner port the water deepens to 1.^ fathoms in h'ss than half a mile, except to the westward, where there is a lon^ >*pit with oidy 1«'5 t<» IS feet upon it for nearly half a mile from the shore. Monroe point. — The south-east i)oint is a low, narrow siind spit, curving? inward from the outer shore to the westward and merely outlyinff the cliffs 'i cables. Very shoal water extends nearly to the .'5-fathoms line, and then the depth increases to K* fathoms in ;'»(! yards and to 20 fathoms in 2(X) yanls. LIGHT. — A /i.rcd t'fd light is shown from a white stake on Monroe spit, !.'>() yards from the mv\ of the spit, at an elevation of 2r) feet above the sea. BAINBRIDGE ISLAND lies in a deej) bight of Great I'eninsula, and its eastern coast forms the western shore of Admiralty inlet abreast West point and Dnwamish bay. It is moilenitely high, has some high bluffs along the eastern shore, but this is broken by several indentations, forming anchomges and harbours. PORT ORCHARD lias its entrance in the south-western part of Port Madison. This entrance is very narrow and somewhat crooked, but has from 15 to 4 fathoms in it. \'essels must I'nter under easy sail and keep the lead going on each side to find the deepest water. When through give liolin i)oint a berth of nearly half a mile, to avoid the shoal extending eastward fnmi it. Around Bolin point. Dogfish bay opens north-west, and near the head (tf the port, Dye inlet trends northward and westward. Rioh passag'O, the southern entrance to Port Orchard, is obstructed by rocks and is difficult of luivigatiou. The winds are light and variable, and at its narrowest part, where it makes a sharp turn, the streams are strong. Utt chart, No. 1,947. Chap. 11.] MAniHOX PORT.— KAfJLK FIAFIHOI'R. 47 )f th. An iron l)eaoon 18 feet high. Hnrmountetl by a iwrrt'l painted hiacl» and wiiito in horizontal stripen, stands on Orchard i-ocltH. A r«'d conical buoy in piaci-d in iUi feet, 4(X> yards Honthward of Orchard rocks, with Orchanl point S.S.K. ^ K. about ,') cables. The rocks are covered at high water. Dock. — The United State.n Government dry dock at Port Orchard is (JIO ftct louf,' over all, 573.^ on the blocks, IKijj feet wide at the entrance ; has 30 feet over the sill, and '2^ feet on the blocks. Skiff point, at 3 miles S.S.E. of Munroe point on the west side of the inlet, projects fully half a mile into the chaimel. It is low, and rises regularly to a ridge to the westward ; the blut!" to the northward is niodcmtely hi>-'li. Murden cove is jnst under Skirt" point. The north-western shore is low ; the s(mtheru shore has steep clay clills. The inner part of the cove hsis shoal water, but inside of the line of the two points there is anchorage in 10 to 15 fathoms. Yenioalt point is the southern point of Murden cove. It is a low point, with gently rising land behind it. The cliffs to the north- wanl and southward are moderately high and broken. There is deep water off the point. EAQLE HARBOUR is a narrow indentation in the eastern shore of Bainbridge island. At the month the entrance is barely half a mile wide. The north side of the entrance is Wing point, very narrow and low. A long, pebbly beach extends 30(> or 400 yards S.E. from Wing point, and late surveys have developed a direct connection from this ledge to Blakely rock, running parallel with the shore. For three-quarters of a mile from the point on a line to Blakely rock there is found as little as 2^ fathoms. Outside of this ledge the bottom drops very smldenly to ."iO fathoms. When bound into Port Blakely do not haul too close to the shore nntil within half a mile of lilakely rock. If large vessels are boimd into Eagle harbour, they would liave to enter from the southward, close under the shore, and pass tlirough the narrow but deep channel between the ledge and the shore. Buoys. — A red nun buoy is moored near the south-east extremity of Wing point reef, half a mile from the point, and should not be H ADMIRALTY INI.RT. [Chap. IF. :il)|>roaoh»><l within 'HM\ yiinlrt. A I)hu;k ciin buoy luarkH the \'i\m' til' iht' abrupt Haiul npit at Huuth rtitb- ol' harbour t'litrancc, PORT BLAKELY in a inodt-mtt'ly deep imb^itation on thi- north Bide of ReHtoration point, trendinij wvHtward nearly one mile. The uHual outer anchonij^e of I'ort IMakely Ih S.E. by S. of the north point of the tfiitranct', a little nearer the Houthern shore, in i;^ fathoms, over sticky bottom. The deepest water in the t-ntrance is IS fathoms. The inner anchorage is about '.\ cables inside the north point and rather nearer the southern shore than the northern, in '.>^ fathoms, over hard bottom. Here the width, under th«' northern and southern shores, is only JiiM) yards, and that width decreases further in. Blakely rook. — in the outer road there is a ledge of rock nearly 'I cables in extent, and a lar<,"' part of it is above water. The middle and highest ))art is l') feet above water. There is shoal water and foul gronntl for 2C>i> yards to the northward of the rock, with a bank of kelp extending into 7 fathoms water around it. Directions. — On the south side of lUakely rock, there is deep water close to, with a passage between it and the nortliern part of Restoration point, nearly half a mile wide ; this passage has 25 fathoms, with sticky bottom. The passage between the north entrance point and Blakely rock is half a mile wide between the lO-fathoms lines, and has 2G fathoms, (»ver sticky bottom, so that vessels from the northward always i)a8s between the rock and the north entrance point. The approach from the northward is over the ledge joining Wing point with Hlakely rock. A little less than half a mile north of Blakely rock, this ledge can be crossed in 1) fathoms, sandy bottom ; but thence to Wing point the depth on the ledge tlecreases, and as little as 2i fathoms is found, with deep water inside. Outsidt* ilie ledge the depth rapidly increases to .')0 fathoms. Restoration point is in some respects very peculiar ; no other point in these waters, except Battery point, presents the wime formation. For 'AOO yards it is Hat, about 10 feet above high water, and has one foot depth of soil, covered with grass, over a limestitne rock upheaved nearly on edge, the direction of the strat^i pointing toward Battery point, or a little sou tli-east ward of it. Inshore the ik» eh«n, Me. 1,»47. CI lill). II.] pfinr ni-\M:i,Y.— WKMT imunt, 49 liinti I'lHCH rtt«><>|)lv iiltoiit 1(HI ff*>t, lilt' HiiU>H coven><| with ^imhs iititl itH 4iiminii with iir in'c Around thf whole soiith-i'HHt«'rii fm-H (tf tho Winj; l>rth of )ttutu ; iimI ilH |(U- I hi- lt other water, |ie8t()ue Milting re the point theHe peculiaritieH exiHt. On the upper levelH of the high hind luijiieent iire small lakeu. From thf extremity of the point a leilj,'e, dry at low water, and lit ilepth iH (juarter named Decatur reef, » xtends int«) the inlet ;5(M( yards, tlit t» fathoms at l(M> yardn oH' its extremity, and lt» fathoms at of a mile. Southward of tlie point, anchorap- may l>e had in I. '» fatluuns, <»ver sticky ItotNun. a «|uarter of a mile from shore, or, as a rule for lindiinf anchoi-a>;e, hrinu IMakely roek north of the point, in line jusl over and inside of ii. Kelp e\ists aloni; the southern face. Deoatur reet is miu-ked U\ a red iee-buoy in S fathoms, with Uestonition point W. by N. \ N., distant KM) yards. Orchard point is the low rocky p(»int al the south side of the entrance to Hicli pjissaj^'e into l*ort Orchard. Rehind it the land rises into a modemte hillock with a low neck to the southwiird, and a cove inside the passat^e to the westward. Ott' this point the water is deep. LIGHT. — A fi.i-fd irhih' li^hi is exhiliileil on Orchard point, elevated *.*'> feet alxive the sea. Meadow point, nearly opposite Monroe point on the western shore of the sound, is a small low icfrassy point, with a marshy lajj^oun iiiBide and hit,'her ground risinp behind. WEST POINT is a sharp low jjrassy point projectin^j nearly one mile into the channel. LIGHT. — On West point -a Jhixhimj \'\^\\\ exhibits trd aiiu white Hashes alternately, at int.-rvals <»f Ifn sri'mnis. It i.< elevated '27 f»'et abovi' hijfh water, and visible 10 miles in clear weather. Fog" Sig'nal. — A steam trumpet f<ives a blast of tivf soands dnrati«in at intervals of hrenfif-firf si'mtufs. ShilshOle bay and creek.— between the two latter points Ih Shilshule bay, and ut the bottom of the Imy Shilshcde creek empties, draining Union lake ;> miles to the eastward. Locally, this bay i8 known as Salmon bav. The shoal water extends furthest at the .Vcolwrt. Nu. I,i*47. SO llUitt it :><• AhMIIIAl/rV IM.KT. [ClKip. I mouth <»f tlu' civfk ; two fwt can In* rurrifW into the mouth of tliir* rimiiU stream at low water. Anchoragf may b»' had in ShilrthoU' bay in \'t fathomri, over Hunily bottom, with WcHt point liKhthouso bearin;j[ South, distant ihree- quarters oil a mile. There iH a jjrood anchorag*- in 7 to 10 fathoms about 'iWl yards from the shoH' between West |)oint and Shilshole creek, an<l good proteetion from sonth-ensters. It lias been pro|)osed to exeavate a channel from the sound to I'liion lake, and thus have ;» safe port in Iresli water. DUWAMISH BAY.— On the southern side of West point. Duwaniish bay opens with a width nf ,j^ miles, conlracis rapidly to i\ miles, and continues with that wi<ltli for "i mih's to the edge of the extensive Huts at the nioutli of tlic Duwaniish river." On the southern si<le of the high wooded blulV ctunmencing just eastwanl of West point there is a \'>\n! hori/tuUal cut. whi<-h is halfway lu-tween the wnfer and ih' lop; it is a good landmark. This blnfl" is nametl M.ignolia ItliiH' ; it reaehes nearly KK) feel elevation and c«uitinues with decr.-asing height for 1), miles Kast to a moderately wide cuve, dry at low water, named Sniitli cove. I'ntler the foot of M;ignolia hliitf aii<l nearly half a mile S.K. of its liighesi bn'uk, there is a lari'- granite erratic i»oidd«'r mside the low water line, and locall\ kitownas Foin- Milt rock. The broken bhitr abreast this rock is •.'••0 feet hi^h, ami the iaiul Indiind it rises to nearly lon feet. b'riMU the eastern side of Smith ciiVf the shiin- for '.\ miles to Seatth' is nearly slraiyht ami tiitid> I!. S.K. It is «'omparali\el,\ low, Itut the land behind rises rapiilly to the lop of the liilge between this bay and I'liimi lake, the extreme hei).dii bein« U'l leet. Duwamish rivi-r is a mod»'nite|\ large ."Stream in the Cascade range of mouiitaiiK. and Minniiig a .'eneral course to the north-west to Duwamish la\. A tributary Irnm ihi' north drjiins the evtensive lakex, Washiiiutoti and Samniamish : and in its \alleys and at the lakes there have been developed extennive deposits of coal and iroti. The wlude country is well witoded. The great mud Hats at the head «d' Duwamibh bay are formed fruiu the s«Mlinienls brought down by this river. * .Sry Adminiity plan . — H(«ikiil*> harbtmr. .Nn. 1.427 : Muule, mas.'t'O inoluM. i nii:.|.. II.] DTW \MTSII BA v.— HKATTLK. r»i SEATTLE, ill -he nurth-eawi«'iii part of DuwamiHii lx»y, in an exti'iirtiv*' t«»\vii. Vt'KH«ls t'ttii tilttaiii aii ninds (if supplieH. It in lliH BMppinj? port for the coal ininen in the vicinity, and larjjfe (|iiantities are exported. Wheat is largely »'Xj»orted and the lumber business is evtentiive. 'Pht-re is an extensive systeni of wharves in the extended frontafje of Seatth', and stoainboats and vessels ^o directly there to discharge and load. 'Ches** wharves extend into to ;J and 4 fathoms. Vessels anchorinir otr the town find the iiest lurrountl near the southern part of the town, where a depth of ir> Im 'iO fathol:|^i ov»m' muddy bottom is round. JlHi yards outside tin- wharves. It drops ulf suddenly from l.'» fathoms. Coal. -Vens'lf are rapidly coaled at the svharves l>y chutes, alon^;- side which there are depths from IS to 2-^ feet. of its e the lirokeii it rises lilfS to > low, 'tween range west to ti'nsivi- at the il iron, head AMI liv Directions. — When a sailing-vessel is getting under way from the anchoi-av'e off Seattle, the ustuil summer winds eompel iIh' first lack to lie to the souiliNuird towards the edge of the grt-at mild Hut. if it i>«- high water this Hat cannot !'«■ distinguished, and the lead must b»' kept going. When a depth of 1.'') fathoms is struck. >;o about, for the water shoals to li fathoms very stuldenly. If tile stream i)e elib, those buuud out of tlu- sound should stand well into the inlet ; and if bound up the sound should work close u)ider and around Duwainish head to l'<attery point. If the str«au) l)e flood, (hose l<ound out of tlie iniet should work under the north shore ami close (o W<'st point ; if bound up the sound, they should work under the north shore about :5.^ miles to .Magnolia point or to the Kour Mile rock, or until they <an fetch well clear of Mattery point. If calms prevail, the tug is employed to tctw vessels in or out. Steam tug's.- The tug s«'rvice throo.^diout the sound is g<»od. Repairs "an tie efl'eeted to larg<* ma«'hit»ery. Cylinders of lit) ineheK can lie cast an*i bored ; (II tons of metal can be t-un at one lime ; shafting ]'l in< lies diaimter at i^^ feet long can be turned. Masts and l)oats can bt; built. Tides. -It is high water, full and cliange, at Seattle at 4h. I4ni. ; splines i'isc 111 feet, neaps S.^ feet. Ih«ii. .Vf chart. No. 1.427. 80 lii»4ti 1) i i I; I M ADMIHALTV IM.IiT. [Vhwy. 11. DuWdXnish head in ntefp, about Wi^) feel Iti^ti, iiiul ihe HUiuuiil b Hpiiiwly coviTtul witii Hu' Ori'^(»n pin*-. Tlie heiich at low wutt-r exteiidw 1,^ cables iinrthwanl, when tin- Hhoul water is eomimieil lo the li-fatlioiiiH line, which in .1 rubles from the blufV, the drop to 20 fathoiiiH is within '.'.'iO jardH. Along the east Hide of th'^ bluff the water in deep close inshore. Trider the eastern hide of the head IH the town West Seattle, with an extensive sawnMli and wharfage facilities. Nearly one mile insid*' the head is a sumll settlement nanted OH'nnnor, within the outer edge of the great flats. A red bell-l)Uo\ is moored in iW't feiM. with iJuwamirih head S.S.K. i K. alM.ut ;{ cables. Battery point. —The south point i.r tlif enlraiur l<t Duwamish bay is Mattery point, l-'rom the north-westward, just before reaching West point. Matter} point is seen as a mod»Tately low, bare, nearly flat-topped iMound. with a sleep did" nearly (•(• feet liii.'li to\var<ls the water, and a short, low point outside of it, which is the real point. Insiile of the curiously sliipfd mound there is a low neck with large straggling pii\e trees, and bt-hind this the hind again rises. From ihe south-eastward. b(\oiid linec point, the same cliaracler- isticrt are sten, with oiu- ioni' [)iiii' iiuiik standinu' in the in' lille of the gently sloping siirfiice of the mound. This (ivc shows n \\ only the bare trunk ; formerly it was a g«»od mark. On the north side of Mattery pititit s; vess<l am hoiinir iti '.'<' fathoniB over riiindy bottom cannot have a ui'«at<i' siope of chain tlum \\b fathoms. witlKjtit being too close to the shore. The lu-ach is amooth and very regular, being composed of sand and gravel. LIGHT.— A h.i-fil irfiif'- light, elfvated \'i feet above high water, •m a white stake, is exhibiicd on Mattery point. Williama point is ih»' tirst small, low. sj'iKly ami gravel point, 3 miles from Mattery p«>int. The land riseK rapidly behind it and it is pine coveri'd. It is tbf north point of haiintleroy cove, BraC6 point forms the south hide of i-'aumleroy cove. It is a small, low. sandy, gravelly point, backed by n'oitlly rising ground, covered wiiii Oregon pine. When running north, before a vesHel reaches IMilly point, I'race |i<unt is Heen as a moderately high wcxHled point juHt taslward of Mattery point : the land behimi the first rise falling a littb* and then rising !.» the eastward. Sff oh»rt. No. 1.1*47. i Chiip. II.] HATTKUY POINT. --VA.SHOlf ISLAND. &a •aci Fauntleroy cove.— 'rfiiH Hliuhi indontntion in iM'twetMi WiHiams point iimi liciice point ; ilu' tiiHtanc«' ajnin of tln^Ht pointH im ii little over thi'tM'- jUarttTs nt' a milt-. (t«»o(l anc'lioraii^c niiiy l»e hiul hure in 10 anii \2 fathouiH. Frt'sh \val»'r in vatiWs obtuiuftl in iln* vicinity. Pully point ir* 4] niilfs fntm Urac«' p«unt. It is a low point with a Hut r«)un<lin}; hilloc-k liohind it, and upon which ritandfl one large hiK'h tr»'e in the miihlh; an<l two nr three smalU-r ones HtPiignliiitr on each hide. The extrenilly of the point is wand and {5'ravei and it piichen sharply olV int«» very deep water, the .')0-faihoni>4 line lyiiit; but a rdjort diHtance oiitHido, with 120 fathoinn in initl-channel. There it* deep water on the north and Month sides ; strong' dtreuinn sweep hy it. Bloke Island, at the northern entrance to Oolvos pasrtJijjfe, is unoni one mile in extent, not !iij.'li, hut cdvereil with wood, except at the ea.stern point, wiiich in low and p»ld)ly. The eantern hide of the island is low. with .stra^'^^linj; trees, and the land rirtes to near the western side. There i.n anchor.ige in 17 to 1H fathcms close under the east point, with bortoni of soft mud. Allen bank exteixls Inun Hlak«- iHJand, with lesH than 20 h'.lhouis avross to Vashon point at the entrance lo ('nivos paHrtu^e. The botton-: i^■ vuriable : in Hoine places mud and in others hard sand. The depiii i.s greater near (he island and decreases to as little as S\ tathoms one mile \. .J, W. of Vashon point. Thi-" bank hai» proved of L'reat service lo vesselh lo.><ing the wind and having adverse streams; the more especially when ilie ("olvos passage was the channel iiHed by all m-sm-Is. Vanhon island i> ilo' largest in .\i|rniralt> itdetand Puget sound. It i- high, with sleep t'oasi, coxered with wood and undergrowth. Its surface is mstrshy, in many parts i|uiic <>levated. The coast line of the island i^ 17 miles, and around there is a lieli of kelp in the latter part of ilic siitnmer and autumn. Iiut it is torn away by the stormt (»f the winter anil spring. The easternmost projection of the i-oast of Vashon island is a curiously sha)>ed peninsula, named .Maury island, ■t^ miles long and H mile.4 wide, lying at the south-east part of Vashon island. Thiii )H>ni^i(mla is high and wooded. .Vriihnre. No. l.t»4:. IT r H \I»MlltAIiTY rSLRT. fChap. II ' I . ' 1 > The north-wewi |mri ih connectetl with Vawhon island by u low fiiindy neck of land ItK) vardH wide. The hijjht at the north end of this neck is Tramp harbour. In the earlier j'ears of the navij,'ation of these wuteix by large Kill lin;r- vessels, Colvos pasHage wiis universally used, but in recent years the development of Taconia and the use of tugs have ehanged the whole traMio to the main «'hanne| between Vashon island and the main short* to the eastward, in this channel the streams ure not strong, the chances for anchoring are few, and it is someti'.nes calm while there is a tine l)reeze blowing through Ccdvos passiige. The main channel on the east side of Vaslion island is the Ih^hi to w<»rk in with a head wind. Quartor master harbour, the deep l)ay on the south side of the neck and iietween Vashon island and Maury island, is IJ), miles long and over half a mile wide, with '> to 10 fathoms, over gray Hand and mud at the north e.xtn'inity. This Imy is an excellent shelter at 'I mih's inside tlu- cutrani-e, with good water and good holding ground. Theri' is ii dock here, Hfr page ."ji». Vashon point, tlie norrhern point of the island, is a high rounding bluff, covered witli Oregon ])ine. Oil' the north of N'ashon island there is good anchorage from about one-third of a mile oH- shore, with protection fnuii sruith-easters. Dolphin point is a high blulf, covert-d with Oregon pine to the base, (ilood anchorage is rejiorted in from 7 to I -I fathoms. In the bight ))etween this poiiit <!nd Heals point there are three rocks above water close under the shore. The suutheiMimost is vn the north-west side of lieals point, an(! is 14 feet above water; the other tw«» are respectively 7 and t» feet hij.di. Beals point, at '11, miles from Dolphiii poiiil, is a wooded point, rising giadually to several hundred feet, but If does not project far into the channel ; there is deep water elose ott" it. RobinBOn point is the easiernnu»st proj«-cii(m of .Maury inluiid ; it stretches well over toward the eastern shore of the channel, whiih it n'duces in width to2»Miles. The extremity of thespifis ir)(> yardn outside the trees, with intervening marshy ground, and then a bluff, which in about Hd feet high, covered on the top with tre«'s. The blurt" rises to about 7t» feel. ."*•<■ chart, No. i.?«:. I] riiiip. II.] (^UAHTKHMASTKH H \ HHorH.— COMMKNrKMKN'i' HAY. *>'► ilit, .1; South (»!" UeytT |)<>int iwu broad opfn bijjriit tiium'tl 'rnimp liurbuiir, with a vt'v low short' on tht? Houth^rn part ami nearly connected witli the head of QuartenuaHt»->r harbour. In tliiH bijjht therr \n aiR'lioraf,'!' in ]'» to IH fatiioins, ovtr liiu' j^niy sand ; this is a ^ood anchorajft", and tlu'i-f in frenli watt-r, LIGHT. — A fi.rifl iTt/ lifrlit, t'i<'vati'd Id f»'»'t altove the ««'a, it* Hxhil)it«^d from a white poHt on Kobinno!) poi>it. Fog" Sig'nal. — A stfain whistle in sounded xi.r xcntnds Ht interval of fi f'fi/.fniir srrniifl^. Brown point iHthe ii(»rth point of the cntraiue io (!oininenceinent itay. On the outer point io tiie north it is low and H:nivelly with m'ently rising: wooded tjround iM-iiinti a inarshy spot inside the low point. \)\i the south fare of the point the siiore rises gradually and irre^Milarly in while elay cliHs from ;2.'» to 'i(Ml ft-rl hi^h within half a mile from the point. Dash point is the low p<»int 1 ,'„ uiiles N. i)y E. of Brown )>oint. LIGHT. — Xji.ntt irliitf liy:ht is exhibited from a wliite stake on Hrown |)oint. COMMENCEMENT BAY.— South of K'obinson point the width of the inlei is W], miles, with hij,'h ItliilV. wooded shores «»n both sides : on the north-western shore the blulVh are unl)rokeii , on the soutli-eiist tlu-y are broken by Hinall streams. At the head of the bay there is an extensive mud tlai, and i<>\\ marsh land I'ornu'd by the deposits broU)j:hl lown by the I'uyallup river. This is a laru«' stream flowing' from the Caneade raniire ami lU'arly parallel wiiii the hawauiish or White river.'- ThrouirlKiut the bay the de|)th is irrcat, ran^iiiK from S.S fathoiiih in I In midille of ihe entraiiee Io llO fathoms elo-e under ejdier nhore, iiud '.'*• fathom^ elose t<i the <'dj,'e of the mud tIalH, which are dry at low WHtfr. No .x^n'tial directions are needetl to enter or leave this bay. The anchontKe off Tacouia is not \iwA, liecuufe tin- U'ptJj is to( >?reiit and invrenMes verj ntpidlv ollshore. Tin-re i- /iwid anehoraK« under the north shore )te^innin^ thi-ee-i{uartei'H of a mile euhiward of Hrown point ; this anchom^e is well shf Itered front all but the Kouth-ettHters of winter. • vv AHTnirnlty |>tuii — Timmhiih l)KrlHiiir. No. IJ'Ji ; immU*. (was.'t'i' iiifhc*. l- ' ii I t \\ I A4> AhMIR.VIiTV 1X1, KT. [<'hill«. II. TlifH' ib iiiM'honiK'*^ otf thf wharf at C)l<l Tacuina in 15 fathomn, coaiw imul and .stonwn, with hrown point N. '»' K., and Dalcn point N. :>?' w.» Tides. — The t'tldii's are 8o vry irre^'idar in OoinTnenccraent bay that to Hteer l)y <;ours«'H in thick \ve;ither are alnutst iiHelesn. There isa peculiar Hlui of whitiHh water on the surfnce of tlie bay during ebb tide, and first i|Uarter of tlie Hood ; this rarely leaves the bay and is said to c«)me from the^dacial waters biouy^ht down by the I'uyallu)) river. When in or <di the entrance t<» thin l)ay the wnow-covered .Hiinimit of mount Rainier shows distinctly over (lie low u'round at the hein! of the bay. Tacoma, <»n ihe s(tuth-weHtern side of the bay, is the terminus of the Northern I'acific milroad. The principal trade is in wheat, coal, and lumber. Su|)plieH o( all kinds may be obtained. Coal. — Vessels coal from alongside wharves, at which the depth is 2'.\ to ',\'.\ leet at low water. Coal is loaded tor shipment by staithes at the rate of from 1(M1 to l.'tO tons per hour. Dook. — In connection with the workshops which are at Tacoma, a floating dock is moored, in <S fathoms, in Quartermaster harbour on the north sidi* of the channel. The ilock, <'apable of receiving vessels of large tonnaire, is Il^'i feet long, l<Mt feet broad, and S(» feet between side walls, lifting power )S,(HM) tons. Repairs can 'oeertVcted to large machinery. .Vbout 7 tons of metal can be run at one time ; cylinders of 'M] inches can be cast ; shafting of !.'> incheH iliatneter and 21 feet long can be turned ; pipes of H inches diamet«'r can be bra/ed : masts and boats can be built. Crane lifts I tons, dtipths alongside S ff«'t, but at very high tidt' 12 feet. Tides.- -It is liigh water. f\ill and changt •( Ih. i.'im. ; s|trings I'ise 10), feet, neaps '.• f«'el, OOLVOS PASSAGE.— Before the general list- of steam-tugs oJi these waters, and before the development tf Tac(»ma as the terminus of u tnms-contineiitiil railroad, this passage was the almost invariably used shij) channel to and from I'uget sound. It is formed by the western coast of Vashon island and the eastern f>f the Great peiiiuMulu. The best anchorage is under the eastern shore, near the Si;- iihurt. No. 1.427. i 1 I Olmp. II.] TACOMA.— THK X ARI'.»»Wft. 57 north «'iitraiicf, altoiit I), iiiil«'H t'nun ViiHlinn |K)iii(, in 'i to 10 fiithnniH. This auchora'^'e is known as fern (;ovf, and the low point forming the Honthern sh(»re is IVter point. Tiiere is iisiiailv more wind in this passui,'t' tluin in the broad passa:;*' eastward of \ashon island., and much stronger stn-anis. There are no known dan>,'ers in this passage. Sonihworth point \» low near the water, init riseH t(»a hiffh wooded i)hit1". It has dei'p watrrclose under its south-east side, but anchoni({e may be had (»ti the north sidt>. halco point is the s<nnh-wesit'rn point of Vashon island, wliere Colvos pa.ssaK'e opens to the southward. The Houtherninost point of the island is Neill point, which is nearly one mile eastwanl of Daleo point. The passa^,'*' lu'tweeii Neill point and Deliance point is known aH Dalc'o passa^'i-. The NARROWS. — There is a relatively narrow passage leading; from the more expansive channels of Admiralty inli't proper to the narrower l)nt >?reatly r.imitied inlets of l*uj,'«'t sound. Through it pass all the waters of l*ujfet sound. Thf avt'ijiKf width oi' th»' Narrows is about three-tjnartcrs of a niilf ; tin- shores are hi^h, bold, and in some plaees rocky ; the suuiinil of the dirt's are wooded. Midway through the Narrows the hi^h lon^' rounding point on tlic wcs; side is Kvans point, and close under it is a sunken rock with kelp around it and in other patches aloni: the shore, Evans rock liesahout i:'>() yards otl' shore, has about I. ^ feet upon it at ex.reuu' low tides, and the pilots of the steamboats have Hpecial inarkh for pa.ssin^ close to it. It is btcally known as the " Uoulder." A.I the extreme low tides of ilie year, about June, this rock sliows just altove the water for ,i few minutes al the slack. Tidal Streams. — in mid-cliann»d the re^Milar tlood and ebb stream are always found to run from a half to inie hour after hif^h and low water. There are (j:enerally considerable ripH, ^.specially at springs, with strong swirls, which make the water very rough and dangerous for snuill lioats, uiore i>artifularly when the winda are contrary to the streams. On the east side of the Nariow-* and southward of Defiance jmint A Htrtuig eddy is found on the flood tide from about abreast of Kvnns .Sh^churt, No. 1.V47. 5ft ADMIRALTY INhKT. [Chap. n. point to Diitiaiii-i' point. This eddy is nmcli iisnl \>\ sinall HifuiiuM-H h\u t^TPiit can' must Uv t'xcrcisfd wlu-n closr to Dt'tiaiicr point, if bound throii;;h Dalco passsa^'c in Tacoma, to iiaiii out ^'radually to meet the strong' tiood at the poin iiist*-ad of running into it almost at rij^Iit anodes. Tlu' linr ItetWfun thf Hood and the fddy is wtdl marked l)y the rip. and as both are Htron^ care is tleniai\dfd. On the western sidr of thf Narrows, Ix-tween Kvaiis point and Ui;? harbour, tiien* is a HtroiiK eddy on the «'bl> tide. This ed<ly is always taken ad vanta>,M' of by steamboats anti small eraft, but the pilots of boats using this eddy must be careful to keep (dear of the " Moulder," or Kvans rock. H»d\vet'n Evan^ point and FostUck point there is slack water very close under the shore during the flood, l»ut only the smallest craft can take ailvanta>?e of it. Doflanoe point is the north-esiat point of the northern entrance to the Narrows. It rises by several steps. Between hijjh and low water-mark there is a narrow ledj;e or sh»dt' of rock Itare at low water. The face of this r«)ck is almost perpendicular, with 5 fathoms nlon^jside, and at 7(1 yards oil" 10 fathoms over rocky bottom. Above tJiis rocky b-dfje there is a rise of |(> feet, a slope reaching,' fjtl fi>et hi;,dier, and a thirti rise of 1(M> feel, above which the head is densely woo.led, and the grountl rises ^^radually inland. Tin* face of the clitr is too steep for trees, and is a l)ri)^ht yellow ctdour. On the east side strong edtlies exist around the point on the Hood. Gig harbour. — On the western sid«' of the Narrows, at the northern entran«-e. and directly opp«)site DeHanoe point, there is a small lioat harbour, with a depth id" 10 fet-i in the cntr.ince ami .'» fathoms inside. The entnince is very narrt)w. Day island anohoragre. — At ihe s<»uthern entrance to the Narrciws, on the eastern sidt', there is a small narrow projecting' point from the eastern shore, which fonnsalittl se du (he north side. Anchora^t' may lie had in l."> fathoms, liut there are strong,' swirling' streams which make it an uncoinfortahht Iterth. On tin- southern side of this little peninsula, and outside the kelp, anclioraue may also be had, l)ut the streams are stroug. There is a small patch of kelp, with boulders, close oil Day island. PUQET SOUND, — This name is ai)plied in its original meaning for the sake of sul)-(Mviding these waters Up to the Narrows the channel had been broad, open, and nearly straight ; south of the See oh»rt. Xo. I,l»7. <'hjip. Ti.] vrCrV.V sot'NI*. — STKII.A<'OOM. ft9 Narrows th** Hhnrt' liii<> of tlu* huiiiid iiiid of th«> iHliUulH in it iininuntK to '2SH inilt'H, with tin'p \v;tt<>r alomr alinont »'vrry inil«'. 'I'lu' main Ixxly of tlu' .soiiii"! lie.H i<> th»' wiuthwanl and wi'Htward. The navivratio.i is very siinph; in i;<>iid wcatlu'r, but in thick and fof»j(y weathiT it n-ijuin'S a full htcal knowh'd^*' <»t' tlu' strtnims and th«' |K'culiariti)>H of the echufs from all points passed l)y the steam- boats. With a knowled^'e of ilie titles the caiitains and pilots run in fo^^j^y or thiek smoky weiilier ity courses and lime-distant'es, and vvlieii approacliinu any point tiiey ascertain its distance and Itearinu' by the echo of their ste.im-wiiistle fi-oin the siiores. No iiiiniile sailinir direct ions cull id •" Irawn up to take tiie place of tlie local knowledtre and experience of the pilots, and ^fein'iiil directi(»ns are only su>,'!;estive in >,'ood weather, for the chart is tlie best jftiide. Fox Island is P, miles l<mu W.X.W. and K.S.E., with an average width of one mile. The jtaHSJUje between it and the mainland to the north is known as Hale passiiye. The norlh-eaHternmost part of tli(> island is a bri^dit yellow clilf, estimated to be 7(1 feet liiKh, and tMivered with Orcf^oii pine. Whollochet bay. — This is a modenttely wide ixiy.opetiin^ into the north side of Hale passiifr*-. opposite the tniddle of the north shore of Fox island, and one mile west of Kosdick point, at the southern entrance of tin- Narrows. Tiie imiiiediale sliures of this bay are lr>w, risini: to wooib-d hijrh land, and att'ords a ;;ooi| and sheltered anchoraj^e. Tollva shoal.— This danyjer, with \,\ feet over it, lies directly in lineof the southern entnmce to the Narrows. It is one mile from (jibson point at the south-east part of Fo.\ island, and one mile from the eastern nniin slutre. The !>ottom of the shoal nr.i! nronnd it is foul and marked by a patch of kelp. The tide ri|i upon the shoal is very ^'reat. and with a little wind it raises a conftised short swell sulficient to swamp a small boat. Toliva shoal is marketl on the northern side by a vad and black nun buoj'. Steilaooom. — On the eastern shore, '.» miles southward from Defiance point, in the town Steilacoom, situated upon a blutt". There .^(•.'hwrt. No. 5.047. «0 I'UOKT WH'NI). [Chap. fi. Ih u wharf for th** fltciuiiboat landiiiff, iind in tipproarliiii^; in ihirk wtiatlwr the echo of th«' veHMfTrt .steuni-whitille in very >(o»mI. When ui)proaohin^ frouj the northward keep alonj: under tin- euHtern Hh«)re to avoid Toliva shoal, and if lioiind ft>r Sttdlaconni, anchor off the town in la fathonm, over hard itottoin about llMt yards off 8hor«'. Tije title rip in the channel alireaHt of the town \n fr4'(|iiontly «idlieient, with a little winti, to swamp a HUiall l)oal. Sl<'ilac«»oni river in a Hniall stream fniptyint' into the Hoiind one mile northward of the town, hnt Ih now locally known hh ChaniherH cr^ek. Tides. — It ishi^h water, tidl and change, Steilacooui, at 4h. Itini, ; Bprin^H rise 1 1 feet, neap« i'^ feet. Ketron Island in narrow, 4 ndlrs lonjr, lying panillel with the slutre, one mile Honthward of Steilacoom, with a passjige on the east side named Cormorant pasH. The island is from (iO to KKI f*>«>t high, with Mteep sides, and is covered with tall Oregon pine. MoNell island is alMHH '.\ ndles long, east and west, and '2\ milen wiilc. lictwecn its nortli side an<l the south side of Fox island there is a (diannel I), miles wide running for some miles into ("arr inlet. Between the south side ol ilie island and the north side of Anderson island there is a compaiatively narnjvv i hannel, kr.own as Hahdi passage. McNeil island is high and wooded. LIGHT. — Oil ilu' southern «nd of Kagle island, i\ fixed irfiit^ light is exhiltited from an elevation of 'j.'t feet. Anderson island is moderately high and wootU'd, with deep water arouml the coast and no known dangers. It is a little o\er ii miles from Steilacoom and is I miles hmg, north and south, and ahout '2}, miles hroad. The southern end reatdies well down into the southern part of the sound ojiposite the mouth of Nis*|uall\ rixer. Then' are good passages all around the island, with the broadest towards Xis(|ually, forming Nisipially reach. Caution.— When rounding the south point of .Vnderson island, give it a good berth, as foul bottom exists there. Nisqually reach is between the south end of Anderson island and NiMpially llatb. The south end of Andernon island opposite the .Sm ohart.No. I,!)47. Ciiup. II.] ' 1 >TKII.V('(M>M. -.HOOI»V I'OINT, dl Itiink Ik ciilltMl Turku poiui, or l-ylc point ; a \it\\u, nmnilin^, moi|»'rat«'|y l<iw pniiii. wiili ir»'»'s ctiriiiii^' down ro hiK'i-wiilfr mark ; and mid«'r the wt'st Hido tluTtt is a hIIj^Iu iii<l«>ntatii)ti ruuni'd Thompson cov*-, with aiuhoraK** in ;'> nnd G fathonw. Oil Turku point th«*re ur«* rttruuK tide ripn on tht- Hood. NiH(nially Hatn arc '.\}, mihn in »'Xt»'nt, W. by S. and K. I»y N., and about thnM'-<|uart«'rH o!' a iiiilc witlc. They lir off tb»' broad, b»w, marnby vaUoy ibroujrb which the Nisi|ually river and its nunifiontionH roHch the sound. Then* is d«'ep water ab)n>j the northern cdt'e of the Hals, but cspi-eiaily lowards (lie eastern limit. Nlsqually is .'> mib's Soinh of Sii'ihieoom, on ih«' sttme siib' of Ihi' sound. Il is at the mouth ot a small stream and at ihe i-astcru fdiff nt thf i'\i»'nHiv«' Inskip l»ank or Nis(pially Hats. Nisi|ually landing' is om- mile North of thf Nis(|nally river, wh»'re the Sij,'nalil(lii'W ereck empties. Ths-ri' is a sawmill on the creek. This creek is the natiu'al oulk'i (d" the chain of lakes on the prairieH : one of these lakes, .\merican lake, is several miles lonj;. Tides. —Il is U\n\i water, full and rhain^e, at N'is((iuilly at lib. dm. : springs rise IK feet, neajis IT). Devil's head. —This is a bluir about StI feet above the water, and covered with trees that r»'ach a height of l(M) fetM. Then* are trecH under the bliiH" down to the very narrow sand beach. It is the southern point of the unnamed peninsula between Carr inlr-t on the east, and (!ase inlef oii the west. Moody point is the extremity of the promontory between the broad walerH towards Drayton puKsafre and NiH(jually r"ach, and the narrow arm of the souml on the west, named Henderson islet. It is a low. sandy point, with some unpainled shanties under the trees and bluff, which are inside and behind the low short-. Moody point is locally known uh Johnson point. LIGHT. — A fi.nd n'/n'tf li>,'ht, elevated 'i^t feet above hi^di water, is exhiliited on Mooily Mohnson) point. Itsami shoal lies one mile from the northernmost extremity of Moody or .lohiison point, and half a mile from the nearest shore of HartHteiu' island t<» the west. It is a rocky patch, having '.> feet on it. with kelp spreailinK out to u <lepth of .'(^ fathomH. There are .4f^ chart. No. 1.947. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-S) 1.0 I.I .25 1^ !■■ IIIII2 2 1^ 1^ IIIIIM 1.8 U IIIIM.6 V] <^ ^ /a ^a 'c^ ■^ % ^h :^> ,: y M Photographic Sciences Corporation '£■>. 'VEST MAIN ST»«EET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 873-4S&3 es :\ V <h V ^b' \ o^ >r I C/j s 62 iruKT sor.Ni). [Chap. u. 10 fathoais between the shoiil and tlie west shore of Moody point and G fathoms between it and Dicker.son point. ItHami shoal is marked on the north side by a nun buoy eoh)ured red and bhick in horizontal stripes, with Johnson point N.E. | E., and Dickerson point S.S.W. Vessels bound to Olympia should leave it on the port hand. Dana passage. — From Itsami shoal the passage is contracted to about half a mile wide with mid-channel depths of 2t> to 1.'') falhoniK over coarse gray sand, shells, and gravel, and good water dose to the siiores. The eastern shore is indented and moderately l(»w, but covered with Oretton tir : the western shore is formed by the south side of Hartstene island and is higher tiian the eastern shore. There are very strong streams during spring tides in this passage. There is foul bottom close to Brisco ])oint. am) tlie edge of the channel is steep-to. BriSCO point is fi<T feet high, wooded, and has good water close to it on ihe east side, but the iVfathoms line extends ;')(*() yards south from the point, with a fringe of kelp in 4 fathoms, and with a narrow, low neck on the north. The channel immediately on the west side of the i)oint is F'eale pass. Dofflemyer point is low and cleared on the north, with clifl's 80 feet high to the southward. LIGHT. — A firrd ifhilr light is exhibited on Dofllemyer })oinl. Cooper point, at the western side of the entrance to Budd inlet, projects to the northward ; it is low and sharp and rises to 80 feet in half mile towards the south. It divides Budd inlet from Eld inlet, and the 3 fathoms line extends ;?t>0 yards from the point and narrows the entrance to Eld inlet. BUDD INLET, at the head of Fuget sound, is ti iniles long, in a general direction is S.S.E. At 1^ miles northward of Olympia the inlet is occupied by a mud Hat, of which one-fourth is bare at low water, and this shoal within the iJ-fathonis' line extends from the head of the bay under the east shore for 2 miles towards Wepusec inlet. The average depth is G fathoms, over a bottom of muil. A stony patch, in ]>art bare at low water, ami surrounded by hard bottom in Ser. chart, Xo. 1,947. t.'hap. il.] DANA PAHSAGE.— HOOD CANAL. 6?, one to :') fathoms, lies ii little abreast the bhift" three-quarters of a mile north of Butler cove. This shoal is marked on its northern edge by a red buoj-. Many vessels go to the wharf at Olympia at high water and lie there in the soft mud at low water. Steamboats run up to the wharves at high water, but if intending to move during the time of low water they must lie nearly one mile N.W., under the west shore, where there is a wharf, and whence there is a good road along the shore to Olympia. Olympia is the capital of Washington. It has educational institutions, manufacturing establishments, sawmills, Ac. The lumber output of tiie country is large, and extensive deposits of coal have l)een found. A wharf projects northward from the town through the middle of the hats, about half a mile beyond the old wharf, into (1 feet water at the lowest tides. Dredging is in progress. Tumwater is a village about one mile south of Olympia, on the l)e Chutes river, whei-e the water-power of the falls is utilised by mills for various products of manufacture. LIGHTS. — Two Ji.rcd red lights are shown at Olympia. Tides. — II is high water, full and change, at 01ymi)ia. at h\\. 'M)\x\. : springs rise 14 feet. Directions. — it would be useless tt» attempt to describe the route betweeii Olympia and Steilacoom, because a pilot or a chart is absolutely necessary to make the passage. In foggy weather, or in the dense smoky weather of a dry summer, it is impossible to see a ship's length ahead, with irregular streams to aild to the dilliculty. The chart is then almost useless, and a thorough local knowledge of every mark on the beaches and of the peculiarities of the echo of the steam-whistle from every clifl' and point are necessary. HOOD CANAL. — This arm of Admiralty inlet opens 1-4 miles inside the entrance to the inlet oli" Wilson point, on the western side of the channel, between Foulweather blutl' and Basalt point on the weBt. The shores of the canal are bold, high, and wooded, rising to much greater heights than anywhere else on the inlet. This is particularly so on the western shore, whore the west shore of the Dabop bay G4 ADMIHALTY IiM.KT. [("hap. II. . attaius iiu elevation of 2,r»(H) feet in less than '2 miles from the water. These high flanking mountains of Olympus range are named Jupiter hills. Hood's head is the island like mass on the western side of Hood canal, 3 miles inside Foulweather bluff. There is anchorage north- westward of the head in 15 fathoms, over muddy bottom, at one-third of a mile from the fllu)re. Th»' north face of the heail is a very steep bare clitl'. and the south face is a roundintr, lii^'h. bare clitl". All behind the cliffs is covered with pine. At the north-east jjoint of the head, a low sandy point extends !}0(i yanls and terminates in a point ; towards the higher poijit the ground is marshy. This is Haniutn })oinl, and off it ileep water is found with strong swirling tides. PORT GAMBLE is a land-locked bay, 'i\ miles long north and south, witii a nearly uniform width of half a mile. It narrttws at the entrance between two htw grassy sand sjjits only IJOO yards ai)art, and with a channel of 120 yards wide between the ii-fathoms lines. The deepest water in the bay is '•> fathoms, and it may be sjiid to have an uniform deptii of ;") fathoms. On the western point of the entrance is a sawmill, and the buildings reach to the rise of the bluff to the westward. Tlu' wharves on the western point are built out so that vessels have deep water between them and East point. A black can buoy marks the edge of the mud bank on the l•a^tern side of the channel in 1(5 feet water. Directions. — When entering under sail, drop in with the early flood. J^oaded vessels are towed in and out by the tug ; when without the tug they must warj) out in summer with the last of the ebb or trust to a light southerly air in the morning, with an ebb stream. None but small, smartly working vessels can beat out, and very few of them have done so within channel limits. When in a small vessel beating out, go out on the ebb. Inside the sawmill and Indian village point there is good water iu mid-channel for anchorage. On the east side of the steamboat wharf there is a depth of 5 to 22 feet, the shoaler water being at the northern end. On the southern side of the wharf, where the lumber vessels lie to receive their cargoes, there is a depth of from 21 to 24 feet at k'O feet from the wharf. Wiside the steamboat wharf. See oh«rt, \o. 1,S47, <"llil|». Tl.l POUT CA.MBLR. — ItrsKWALIiFI'S UIVKH. «:. witli an openint,' to the northward, tliere Iri u ">,'rnliron," upon which Hinall vessels are taken for re])air or exaniinution. It lias 12 feet water on it at high tide. Squamish harbour. — At nearly one mile S.S.W. of Hood's head, is Termination point, with high wooded land behind it and a low narrow beach in front. Case sandbank, i)arallel with the west side, one mile lontr, and nearly half a mile wide, lies within one- third of a mile of the west shore. There is a »)-t'athonis channel inside of this shoal and around the north end. From Tei-minalion point the lO-fathoins line trends South, to the Sisters rocks covered at half ti<le. Thert> is a depili of 7 fathoms between them, and good water all around. These rocks are also known as the S(|iiamish rocks. The north shore of the harbonr is culled Yulkat bluff. Seabeck bay. — Southward from T(*rniination and Salsbury points the canal runs for 12 miles, S. by W., with a general width of 1^ miles, gradually decreasing to the point of the Toandos peninsula. The eastern point of Toandos i»eninsula is Hazel point, and under the eastern shore of this reach and directly abreast Oak head lies .Seabeck bay. an indentation of one mile in a southerly direction. .\t its n urow head there is the mouth of a small stream. On the old charts the projection was called Seabeck point ; on llie recent ones it is named Misery point. Oak head is the southernmost projection of Tuandos peninsula. It is high and abrupt with deep water close under the shore. Fiaher- raan's bay, just on the eastern side of Oak head, is a long narrow cove. Dabop bay has very bold shores, deep wat*'r. and v-ry h'gh hills (»n the west side. The western arm at the north is named 0"il<^t''i« bay, and is shallow and marshy at the head, where there is a small settlement named Quilcene on the left bank of Hig river. Dusewallips river. — Abreast of Oak head, on the western side of Dabop bay, the river empties and has formed a Hat delta and a broad shoal in fnmt. This shoal is *i miles long and half a mile wide with deep water close u]) to it. Between this shoal and Tskutsko ])oint. the nearest part of the Toandos peninsula, the width *r chart, Xo. l.'.u:. SO 11948 B ' ()i; ADMIRALTY INM'-T. [Chap. II. ol" the bay is nearly 2 miles and tiic ilei»tii <»! tlie water is 80 fathoms over muddy bottom. Quatsap p(/uit, at 1 m^IIcs S.W. of Oak head, and on the west side of the canal is a moderately low head, uiidei-the south side of whicdi is a broad open bay one m\\v wide with an extensive Hat. This bay receives the Dnckabus rivei', wliich briiiij^s down much detritus. Hamaliama river empties on the west side of the canal, ]'i miles S.S.W. of Oak liead. Tiiis river ili'ains a large lake •1 or ") miles behiiul tlie liii^Ii nn)nntains (jver the shore and into thics lake a larj,'e stream eonies from the Olympian range. Annas bay is the southernmost part of ITooil canal at the (ireat ISend. and it receives tlie water (tf Skokomish river, which has brought down so much seilimcnt that a scpiai'c mile of the bay is a great sand and mud Mat with ileep water ardiiml the outer edge to the west and noi-th. Tliere is deej) water lietween the western edge of this bank and the westeru main shore one mile distant. On the point at the south side of the shore of the inlet and forming the east side of Anna?' hay is the villag.- Union <"ity, wiiicli has a road through to Oakland on llaiinnersley inh t. The Skokomish is a lar^-e nioiiniain stream coming around the south-east flank of the 01ym|iiaii mountains. It drains a large lake named Cushman, hiyh up the thniks of mount KUinor. AyerS point is the head which forms ihe furthest projection of the (rreat peninsula from th'^ northward into the eanal at Annas bay. It is a high rounding jjoint and his deep water close under it. Si8ter.s point is a high roundin.r bluH' ttn the north shore of the canal, 4 miles east w.trd of Ayers jtoint. It projects from the noi-th- ward, and nearly shuts the canal, leaving a ciiiinnel only half a mile widi', with deep water over irravelly bottom. Clifton villagre is at the extreme In-id of Hood canal, with a l.jng sand and mid flat for '1\ miles down the canal. There is a road thence to O.dcland, another to Lightville, at the head of Case inlet, and a third tn Seabeek harl»f»ur. POSSESSION SOUND.~The southern entrance to this now important and extensive series of brcni'l deep channels lies between l'os.H'Ssi(m point, tht^ southernmost point of Whidbey island, and -p>^1.^-,«r^i:.. -...■. <'li;iii. II.] ii(K)i) cAVAi,. — rossKssioN sorsit. rt7 the main shore np])(isite, unmarked by any sjiecial projection or object. Scatchet head and l^)Hses^^i(ln point liave already been described on patres 42, 4.'5. The nortiiern entrance to this sound is the intricate and narrow Deception pass. The sound receives several important watercourses, Snohomish river in tlie south-east, Stilla^'uamish river about the middh', with Skayit river in tiie north-east. It also connects at the north by tlie Swinomish slon<,di with I'adillit bay, and thence with Guemes channel and l^eirni<,diain bay. The dei)th throusrhout the sound is jjreat, except at the deltas ol" the rivers, which briny down an immense amount of alluvial material which forms mud Hats. That from the S(|Uonaniish river lias nearly lijied in across tlie sound and rt'duccd the channel to one-third of a mile wide with only 4 to (! f'lthoms water. There are numerous 'Milages and towns on the rivers and shores of the sound, and beside the traffic by sailinff-vessels, regular communication is kept up by steamer from Seattle with all the towns and settlements. The shores present the general features of Puget sound, but the channels are narrower. There are no known dangers in the (dianncls. The shores of the deltas of the rivers are low ami muddv and bt'hind them there is a dense forest and underirrowth. he |th- lile Lid In Everett (Port Gardner). — The southern part of the sound runs north from Pospession point for ;'){. miles to abreast KUiot point on the east, when it wide!is out into a nearly cijcular basin .').\ miles in iliameter, with Gedney island in the middle ; this basin is locally known as Port Gardner, although the chart restricts that nanu' to the s<»uth-east part. This ])Ort receives the Snohomish river in the north-east part, its lower course comes through a marshy valley '2 miles wide. Hehind Elliot point is the town ?tIuckilteo ; and 4 miles further along the shore to the north-east is the town Everett, Gedney island, lying in the mi(hlle of Port (iardner, is I J, miles long W.N.W. and E.S.E. When seen from Saratoga passage, it shows a moderately steep blufiC to the west and a low slowly rising blufll' to the east, both covered Avith Oregon pine. Tulalip lies on the main shore nearly abreast of Allen point, at the entrance to Port Susan. The bay is protected by two points, and somewhat restricted by a shoal extending from the north-west point Sff chnrt. Xi). 1 .04 7. SO 1191H K-2 (SS ADMIUAIi'lV iMjyr. [(Miiip. II. I ! to Lilt' iniildle of tlic o])t'iiiiif^'. Tln' culiami' in oi»t'n to the rtoiitli- west, and the two points are about one-third of a mil" apart. Two buoys mark the entrance to thin anchorage. One a black opar buoy, the other a red spar buoy. Buoys.— '^P' ill red spar buoys mark the channel over the flats from Utsaliuly, on the north side of Camano island, to Skapit river. These buoys are moored in depths of 12 to K't feet at high water, iMul should be left to the southward. Suiail red spar buoys mark the channel over the Hats from Utsalady to Stan wood, Stillaguamish river. 'i'liese buoys art; moored in tlepths of r.' to l."» ff«'t at high wai'.-r, and should be l(>fi to the westward. Six small red s])ar buoys mark the channel over the Hats at the north end of Port Susan. 'J'hese buoys are moored in depths of !• to 10 feet at high water, and should be left to the eastward. Six spar buoys mark the channel leading into Davis slougli, one of the mouths of the Snoiiomish river. The entrance to SkauMt river is marked i)y buoys, as is also La Conner, at the south entrance of Swinomish slough. SARATOGA PASSAGE is the broad, deep strait, leading from P(»rt Gardner between Camano island on the east and Whid])ey island on the west ; fi-cun Camano head to the mills of Utsaiady is liS miles long. The strait averages 2 miles in width : the shores are bluflfs covered with Oregon ]iine. but iu)t so densely as before the sawmills depleted the forests. Sandy point, on Whidlu-y island, is Tuoderately long, low, and has no bushes. The blulf behind it I'ises by three steps, with straggling trees. There is a house at the inner or western end of the low beach of the ])oint, with a cleared s]>ace on the sloi)ing, rising grouird, and a white house in the iii>]>er ])art of the clearing. It is locally kuown as .loe Brown's point. LIGHT. — A //.//v/ ir/iifr litrht is exhibited from a stake on Santly point. East point, on the western side of Saratogjv })assage, (! miles from Sandy }>«)iut, is a low, grassy spit, backeil by a high blufl' well ,s»7 olmrt. No. LM;s!t, Chap. II.] SAUATOCA I'AaSACJK.— OAK HAUIUH'lt. t'.n wooded : the tops of tlu" trees are eHtimated to Ite 150 IVet ;il>ove the watei'. Rocky point in low m die wuter's edge iind ri.ses ;,'riuluiilly to '<<> Feet ; the trees have been out iiway and scrul) now covers it. About 100 yards off the point is a rocky islet covered with scrub ; it is about ')0 yards in extent at low water, anil is then connected with the point. Watsak point lies (»n the west side of Saratogi" pussiige, and westward f)f the point is the beautiful harbour Penn cove, '6h miles long and one mile wide, with 15 to 7 fathoms water, ami heading within 1 [, miles of Partridge point; towards the north are Oak harbour and Duncan ba> ; to the north-eastward, just beyond point DemocK, is Utsalady. There is ileep water along all these shores except off Watsak point, where a narrow shoal extends northward for half a mile. This point is locally known as Snakeland point. There is a buoy in 4 fathoms about 50 yards off the end of the spit, whicli has only one fathom upon it at low water. Polnell point, on Whitlbey island, forms the eastern boundary «)f I)uiican bay. Between it and Utsalady the Saratoga passage maj' be said to end at the turnaround Demock point. liOcally, Polnell point is known as Miller point. Utsalady is the most important place on Possession sound : it lies on the north side of (Janiano island, 27 miles fro;u the southern entrance of the sound. The channel to it throu*h Saratog.i passage averages 'i miles wide ; tlie water is dee]), the shores are bold, and there are no known dangers. Vessels are usually towed either way. Oak harbour and Duncan bay are two bays on Whidbey island, in the iu)rth-west part of Saratoga passage. There is the town of Oak harbour at the head of the former. Forbes point is a Itroad peninsula 1.', miles long, lying between the two bays^ Around this broad point is shoal water, and buoys have been j)laced to enable the steamboats to avoid it in foggy and smoky weather. LIGHTS. — At Oak harbour, a ti-rcd trhife light is exhibited on the south-east end of Maylor spit, and s.Jl.red red light on the north- west end. Sie iiharl, No. 2,iis'.i. 10 .ll'AN l)K KITA STIIAIT. ("hi»|i. II. A( La ConutT, n find ir/iif^ lantei-ii liylit is shown from u pile on wich side of the cliiiniiel, onc-thinl of a mile from Steamboat .sloujrh. Skaf,'it river. Xfi.n'fl /wi li^fht is shown from a stake at month of Htilhi;,'iiamish river, and a third uiiilr \\\i\\\ at tiie south foriv of Stilhiguamish river. NORTIiKRN SHORE OF .ITAN 1)K FIT("A STRAIT. PORT SAN JUAN, otiieiaily known as Port Renfrew, is the lirst anciiora^L' on tlie nortliern shore within the entrance of Juan de Fuea strait. Thi- opeiiinLT, which is remarkal)h' from seaward apj)ears as a (U-ep <j;ap lietween two mountain lan^yes ; tiie entrance is i;5i miles N.N.K. \ E. from cape Fhittery lij>-hthouse.* The entrance jxjints lie \], miles K. \ S. and W. .V N. from each other; the port trends iU miles N.K. by N., and is 1] miles wifle, terminating; in a beach of muddy sand. Gordon river and Coojjer inlet enter the {toi-t throuj,'h tills l)eacli ; vrry small coasters enter them towards hipii water, and find de))th and shelter within. On the western si<le of the [lort some rocks and broken ground extend for one mile within Owen point, and nearly 2 cables from the shore ; one rock, awash, lies 5 cal)les X.F. from Owen island, and 2^ cables from the shore. The hill named Pandora peak tloes not show as a peak within the port. There is telephonic communication between the station at the month of (iorchm river and Victoria. Messages will be transmitted at fixed tariff rates. Thei'e is a store, wharf and post office. Owen point, at the western entrance point, has at about one cable froM it a low flat rock named Owen island, awash at high water. Observatory rocks, off the eastern entrance point (San Juan point), are high i)innacles with two or three trees growing on them, antl some sniallei' rocks off, the outermost of which lies 1\ cables from the shore. • At 1 cabh^s within these rocks and I), cables from the shore is another i-eef partly out of water, named Hammond rocks. Anchoragre.— The port is open to south-west winds, and a heavy sea rolls in when a moderate gale is blowing from that direction ; and though it is possible that a vessel with good ground tackle would ride out a gale if anchored in the most sheltered part, it is by Ser plan of I'liri Sun .Tiian : scal« I inch, on Adiiiiraltv chart. No. 1,!M I. Chap. 11,1 PORT SAN .ITAN.— SOOKK INLKT. 71 MO means recoinnit'ndfd to lumaiii with any intlicution of wuch weather, hut to wei^'li immediately, and if outward hound seek shelter in Xeeah hay, the ciiirance of whieh lies 1(1.', miU'S S. by W. from Port San .)iian. There are deptJis of from (> to 1' fathoms all ovti- Port San .Fiian the Ijottom fine n>iiddy sand : when within three-(Hiarters of a mile of the head it shoals to i fathoms, and here in heavy f,'ales the sea breaks : a flat extends 'A eahhs from the hi-ad. in the outer part of llie jx.rt there is generally a swell. Good anchorage will be found about Ij miles from the head in 7 fathoms. The coast. — I'rom Port San Juan the coast trends cast, aii<l presents no very remarkable features ; the country is thickly wooded, and the land rises to a considenible elevation. Providence cove, accessible only to l)oata, lies :\ miles eastward from San Juan; at 41, miles further east is a stream named Soinbrio r-ver. Jordan river is iyh miles westward from Sherringham point ; between the latter and Sombrio river, depths of !Vom 7 to 10 fathoms extend one mile from the shore ; and off Jordan rivei the latter depth extends about 2 miles. Kastward, 4[, miles from Sherringham point, is Otter point ; the points on this side of the strait are not remarkabh' nor easily distinguished unless close in shore, some of their extremes are partially bare of trees. From Otter point, the entrance to Sooke i: iet is 3^ miles K. iiy X. I N., the intervening coast foi-ming Sooke bay, in which there is anchorage in line weather at half a mile off shore in .S fathoms. SOOKE INLET, the outer enti'ance lo which, Let ween Parsons' and Company points, is three-quarters of a mile wide. Navigable depths.— The bar has 14 feet on it at low water. Within the bar, the entrance l)etween Whiflin spit and Entry ledge has 7 fathoms, but is (mly 70 yards across, with a sharp turn and strong tidal streams. Thenc'3 a narrow and tortuous channel, '21 miles in length, leads to a beautiful land-locked basin, 2 miles in extent, east and west, and one mile north and south, with a depth of from (S to It) fathoms all over it.** Independently, however, of strong tidal streams, and several sharp turns, to be made when entering, the width of the channel seldom exceeds half a cable, and is consequently only adapted for coasting * iSee Admiralty plan of Soolvf iiilcl. Xo. ].'M'' : sr.iilo. w = 1 iiiulus. 79 .FCAN l»K KUCA STUAIT. [CMiaii. II. vesrit'lH or rtiiiall rttt'iiin-vt'HwlH, iiiiU'ss iit ctmsid^'riihh' iiicnnvt>ni»'nco and l<»ss of tiinr. Beacons. — I'lin-r i-cd ihtc-Iu's mark tin t-astiTii imI^'i' of ilit' rlianiifl to Sookf wliarf, ami a hlatk iK-ri-h marks tlie weat side of the parirta^'f. tlirc.'-(|Uiirterrtof a c-aliU- S.W. Ity \V. J \V. from Trollope point. Directions. — On tlu* eastern wide of I lie (•i\iran(H' to Sooke inlet is a copper and Iron mint'. 'I'liere are alrto indications of coal in tiic district. WhiMin sjiit is low and irravelly : it must he rounded closely, as Kntry ledjje liesonlv half a cahle eastward from it. On roiindiny th(> jtoint dro]i the an(dior at one cahle within, in S fatli(nns. Anchorage. — There is ancliorajif outsiile in |(> fatlionis, half a mile oil' the entrance ; or, if lu-cessary, run inside Whiflin spit, where there is siillicienl sjtace to anchor; care must, however, he taken as to the depths on the Inir, and to the state of the tide in the entrance proper, where the ehh stmam at springs runs ah<»ut 15 or 1 knots. Tides and tidal streams. — it is high water, full and change, at 2h. llni. During the winter months th^ rise <tt tide in Sooke inlet is Haiti to l»e 10 feet, and the diurnal ine.iuality heinjf large it apjicars to he high water during the whole of the day. At the eutriince the lhj(td and ehh streams run on*- hour after high aiul low water at the rate of ',\ to 4 knots iluring springs. Secretary island, 1~<> feet high, small and wooded, lies i cables 8.K. by E. from Possession point, and one mile s<tuth -east ward from Sooke inlet. There is a depth of 1(1 fathoms between it and the slM>re, from which it is distant 1 .', cables. BEGHER BAY. — Heechey head is a wooded dill' forming the western entrance i»oint of Hecher liay ; ("hurch point being the eastern : and otf the eastern side are several small wooded islands, named Hedford islands. At three-quarters of a mile within in a northerly direction are Wolfe an<l Krazer islands, with some small islets oH' tliem : l)etween these two islands is the channel 1 cables wide. Anciior in I<t fathoms, with the centre of Fra/er island bearing 8.8. W., tlistant a (luarter (d" a ndle.* Beeher bay cannot be recommended as a good anchorage ; there is not good shelter with south-westerly winds, and those outward bound had far better wait a fair wind in Parry bay, 3 miles north- ward of Race islands. * ■>>'■ AdinirRlt.v I'laii <if Bochcr and I'odder bay-. Xn. I.OOi; ; ncalp. m = 4 inches. (Miiip. [I.J SOOKK INLKT. -RACE FASSACiK. r3 RACE ISLANDS, a clusicr <»r low. ban" rocks, thf outerninpt "I wliic'li lies (Mio iiiilo S.K. troiii ln>ntiiu-k ishmd, ncciipy a space alxmt lialf a mile in extent. (Jrcat l{acc is 1.', cables iu extent ami 'iH feet IukIi ; I'l*' <»iln rs ai'f smaller, a tVw I'ert al»ove iiif,'li water, or awash. The titlul streams run from .'» to 7 knots, and (hiring had weather, heavy, danj,'eroiis overfalls, and races occur. Ill liurlil winds sailini,'- vessels should i,'ive tlies*' islands a ^Mod hprth, esi)ecially when eastward of thfin. as the ehl) sets .stronjjly towards them. In IS(iOalar;je vessel was drifted on them hy tho ehl) stream in a calm, and hecamc a total loss. LIGHT. — From a stone li^'lithouse, painted in alternate hlack and white hands, situated on (Jreat Kace island, is exhihited, at an elevation of IIS feet ahove the sea, a lln.flnnii ir/u'lr lij,'ht, which shnwH line fliis/t every /I'n si'i'mifls, visihh' in clc > ■ iveather IH niiloH. Fog signal. — A steam-wiiistle is sounded at intervals of 7:1 scroiii/s during' thick or fogi,'y weather ; tl • duration of \\w bhiHt heiii^ //iv.' sffutulK. Ail additional si;jrnal lo he '/wvu in answer to he to<,' sifrnal of any steam-ves.sei env(do]jed in foj» in .luan de Fiica strait, and to indicate that the northern portion of that strait is free from foj;, as is often the case, is esUiblished at Race islands li<,'hthons<\ This signal consists of a steam whistle, which, under the ahove circumstances, will <jive four short blasts. Tides and tidal streams.— it is hi^'h water, full and chan^'e, at Race islands at iMi. Oni. : ri.se S feet. Th;' streams (in August) turn with high and low water by the shore. Rosedale rock, with .") feet over it, lies i caliles S.K. I)y K. from the (ireat Race, and uneven ground of ."» to (S fathoms extends half a mile eastward of the rock. RACE PASSAGE is 1 caldes wide between the Race rocks and Hentinck island, and has shoal heads of S aud li fathoms, nearly in mid-channel. This passage may be taken by a steam-vessei ; lint under ordinary circumstances it is not recommended for a sailing- vessel, on account of the strength of the tidal streams and races caused by the irregular rocky nature of the bottom. S/i chart. No. l.'.tinl, 74 JT'.AN DK PUCA STRAIT. [Chill). II. A case may arise, however, either inward or outward bound, when havin^T- a stronj? S.E. wind it would be better to run throu<,'h, than to risk weathering the Great Race by less than l.V miles; if so, the Bentinck island shore .■should be kept aboard at.a distance of 2 cables, or just outside the kelp ; '"or the northernmost rock, whicl forms the southern side of the passai^e, is covered at high water, and the strongest eddies are found in its neighbourhodd. Race passfige should not be used by vessels of heavy draught at low water. Tide race. — Caution. — Heavy tide races occur along the northern shore of Juan de Fiica strait from Esqnimalt as far westward as Reechcy head. Bentinck island is about lOil feet high, and, like the adjacent land, covered with pine trees ; its southern and eastern sides are fringed with kelp. Between it and the mainland is a boat channel, and coasters acquainted with the locality find shelter at its eastern entrance ; there are some settlers' houses in the neighbourhood.* PEDDER BAY lias its entrance immediately northward of Bentinck island, 2 miles X.N.W. of tlie Great Race rock, between cape (Silver and William hea I, where its breadthi is three-quarters of a mile; the inlet takes a W.N.W. direction for 2 miles, narrowing rapidly, and at half a mile up is only tit for small craft, which may find good shelter at its head.t Anchoragre. — ^'essels of any size may anclior in tlie entrance in 7 fathoms, with cape Calver. its southern point, bearing S.E. by S. distant about half a mile : but though the holding ground is good, it is open to winds from X.X.K. round by east to S.S.E., and with a S.E. gale woukl neither be a desirable nor safe anchorage. Tides and tidal streams.— 'i'he tides are very irregular in this locality. In Peddei' bay (in October) the tide at high water was observed to fall about one foot and then to rise again. When the ebb stream had slackened in the ofhng, the tide i-apidly fell in Pedder bay. The el)b stream coming round William head is diverted into Pedder bay and prevents the water from leaving it ; Becher bay is subject to the same irregularities. * .See Admiralty charts: — Haro and Rosario straits. No. 2,tjHlM .sc.ile. in = '» inch, and Haro strait and Middle channel. No. 2,840 ; scale, m =: 1 inch. + Src Admiralty plan of BccliiT and Pedder bays. No. l.'.>nfi : scalp, m = I inche«. ('hap. II.] ItACK FA«SA<iK.— JIOYAL BAY tit The stream in the olfuifj runs about 2 hours after high and low water by the shore. A snutli-west wind frequently prevents the water from falling at all. PARRY BA.Y, immediately northward from William head, affords gooil aueliorage with all westerly winds. Those bound to sea anil meeting with a strong Avind fi-om this quai-ter are recommended to return here. Witii a south-east wind there is ample room to weigh, which a vessel should immediately do, and if not able to round the Race islands and proceed to sea, run for P^squimalt liarl)our. Albert head, the north point of the l)ay, is moderately high, sloping to the sea, bare of trees at its extreme, but wooded immediately l)ehind ; a reef lies one cable off it. William head somewhat resembles it, but is lower. Anchorage. — The anchorage is in fathoms at from a half to three- quarters of a mile oft' tin- sindy bea;'ii, with William head bpa'-ing S.K. by S. about the s:ime distance. Quarantine station. — The quarantine station for Victoria is now in Pai-ry bay. The wharf is 480 feet long, with depths of 2") to '.\0 feet alongside, Two_//.zvy/ nd lights, visiVde 4 miles, are shown from two posts on William head : when bound foi- the station, proceed lorthward until these lights are abaft the l)eam, then westerly nntW they are in line, which defines the anchorage. ROYAL BAY or ROADS, of wliich All)cri head is the southern point, and the entrance of Esquimalt harl)uur the northern limit, is a fine sheet of water '.) miles in extent, aft'ording good anchorage with all winds which would prevent a vessel from entering that harbour.* Anohoragre may be had anywhere within three-quarters of a mile from the western shore. A good berth is one mile South from Diintze head, with the entrance open, or the lieacon on Dyke point just opL'n oi" Inslcip rocks (in the harboui-) ; this latter is also the leading mark for clearing tlie Scrog/ r.n-ks when steering in or out. Coghlan rOOk^ on which there is a dei)th of 2 fathoms, lies :U cables N.N.W. from Albert head ; ami Hf cables E.N.E. from the islet at the entrance of the lagoon to the westward. It lias deep water around. * frr chart. \o. 57«. 7r, ,riA\ T)R PTTCA STUAIT. [Cha]». n F ESQUIMALT HARBOUR is a safe nnd oxcollent imchnragH for ships of any si/e, and with the aid of the light on Fisgard island may be entered at all times. Tt has been the custom to send a boat to mark the extremity of Duntze head with a light if the night is very dark.* (yonstance cove, eastward of a line drawn from Diintze head to Ashe head, is the anchorage for ships of war. There is daily communication with Nanaimo by mil. The railway terminus is situated in Thetis cove, from which there is an extension to Victoria ; and a short branch runs down to a pier, which has been built out from the south point of Thetis cove, near the Indian village, into a depth of 15 feet at low water. Navigable depths.— The entrance, which bears North, distant Si miles from the lighthouse on Great Race island, is between Fisgard island and Duntze head, and is 3 cables wide, opening out immediately' within to an e.Ktensive harbour having a general depth of (i fathoms over it, and extending 1} miles N.W. On the eastern side are Constance cove and Plumper bay, in the former of which built on Duntze head, are the Government Naval establishments. At one cable above Dyke point (north point of Plumper bay) the water shoals to 3 fathoms, and from thetice to the head of the harbour is a flat with only a few feet on it at low water. LIGHT. — From a white lighthouse situated on Fisgard island (a small rocky islet 2^) feet high, and almost connected with the shore, forming the western entrance point of Ksquimalt harbour), at an elevation of (17 feet above high water, is exhibited a ^fi.rcd light which shows irhitc when bearing from N. 2° W. to N, G0° W. ; rert from N. CO'' W. rhvorigh west to S. S^ K., and white fron S. S"" F. to S. nd^ E., visible 10 miles in clear weather. ScrOgrg" rocks lie on the eastern side of tlu' entrance 3 cables S.S.E, from Duntze head, and cover at thj'ee-(piart('rs flood. Inskip islands kejjt well oi)en of the head leads clear to the westward of them ; but the Itcst mark for entering with a leading wind is the beacon on Dyke point, just open of the rocks otl the western end of Inskip i'-'uids, l»earing N. by W. J W., which leads in mid-channel. VillagG rocks. — The shoal, with 4 feet on it, lying south of Vi'lage rock.s, is marke<l by a red nun bu<»y. This shoal was * See Admiralty plan of E.squimalt aad Victoria harbours. No. 576 ; seal**, m — tj inches; also Admiralty plan; — Esquimalt harbour, Xo, l,8J»"« : scale m = 10 inchus ; Conntanop oovp, Nu. 'u'2 : scale, m = 1>« iuehen. Cliai-. II.] KSgriMALT MAUHOUR. 77 formerly the foundatiuii of tlu' 7" li»'«iil of Foriter's pier, which has fiilh'U into ilecay, tlit-re lieiug now only a portion of the pier standing'. Inskip island. — Pock. — A sunken rock of sinall extent, with 5 feet on it at low water, lies near the southern shore of Plumper bay, with Dyke point be.icon N.W. by N. ] N., distant ',\ cables ; and north extreme of Inskip island, K. l>y X. | N. Tt is marked by a temporary buoy. There is a depth of 14 feet between this i-ock and Inskip island. Whale rock, or White rock, with 7 feet on it, lies 2 cables W. } N. from the outer Inskip ishmd, or nearly midway between il and the western siiore of the harlmur. Tliis rock is ttf small extent, and not marked by kelp ; it has a clear ])assafj'e on either side, that to the eastward bein<j the wider. Yew point, just toucliinj,' the light- house on Fis,i>ard island, l)earing S. by K. ^^ E., leads nearly one cable westward; and Yew point in line with Rodd hill S. { E. leads nearly one cable eastward. The rock is marked by a buoy colotired red and black in vertical stripes, moored off its soutiiern side. Dyke point. — A white pyramidal Avooden beacon, 23 feet above high w^ater, is erected on Dyke point (at the head of (ho harbour). Anchoragre. — The most convenient anchorage is in Constance cove, on the eastern side of the harbour, immediately round Diintze head, the general (le])th being (i fathoms, and the holding ground good. There is, however, safe anchorage in any part of the harbour, in not less than 4i fathoms, as far northward as Dyke point. Thetis cove, in Plumper bay, on the eastern ;;ide of the harbour, inmiediately north of Constance cove, is a snug anchorage in 4.J; fathoms, with the harbour entrance just shut in by Inskip rocks ; but vessels jjroceeding above these rocks must take care to avoid Whale rock. Moorings and buoys, for the use of H.M. ships, occu])y the central })art of Constance cove ; and along the northern shore are lesser moorings for boats and small vessels. One cable otf the dock entrance are two buoys for docking purposes. And eastward of the town pier there are other buoys used as moorings for small craft. The depth at the outer end of Dockyard jetty is IT) feet at low water. jS^i- chart, No. l.Sit7«. 78 JTAX DK Vrv.\ STRAIT. [Chap. II. A direct south wind, to wliich .some parts of the harbour are open, seldom blows, and there is never sntficient swell to render the anchorage inconvenient. Observation spot. — Duntze head flagstaff is in lat, 4H^ 25' 49" N., long. 123° 2B' W W. DIRECTIONS. — After rounding Race island lightliouse, distant Hiniles, the lighthouse on Fisgard island will be seen: a course N. ^ W. direct for it will clear all dangers, but attention must be l»aid to the set of the tidal streams. Tive ebb streaTu runs almost directly from the Haro and ntighbour- ing straits towards the Race islands, and, unless with a comnu\nding wind, sailing-vessels should give them a wide berth, !ind steer N.E. by N. for I? or 4 miles, before bearing up for the harbour. The Hood sets N.K., and with light winds vessels are liable to be carried to the eastward, and if near to the Vancouver island shore, they may be set up the Haro channel, where the water is generally too deep for anchorage ; therefore, with the flood, the coast of Parry baj' should be kept aboard if possible, where good anchorage may be had in moderate weatlier. and with all westerly winds, at less than one mile fi'om the shore in 10 fathoms. Whea entering the harbonr under sail with a strong fair wind, take cai'e to shorten sail in time, a- the space for " rounding-to " is somewhat limited; and it is desirable to moor if iiuy stay is intended, as the winds are changeable. The best time for sailing-vessels to leave the harbour is early in the morning, when either a calm or light land wind may be expected ; there is little strength of tide in the harbour, or for some distance outside, and it sets fairly in and out. Caution. — Fisgard island should not be ])assed within one calde distant, as a rock with 7 feet over it lies three- quai'ters of a cable N.E. from the lighthouse. By nigrht, when Fisgard island light l)ears N. by W., steer for it. Keep the white light in full view ; if it becomes dim or shaded, the shore is being too closely ai)proached, when immediately haul out to the eastward until it is again distinctly seen ; the two lights (Race and Fisgard) by their bearings will show how the vessel is being affected bv the tides. Cliiip. II.] KSQriMAI/r HARBOUR. 7".t The irhite light is iiitemU'il to guide in from seaward, and whih' visible clears alike the western coast between Race island and Esi|aiin;ilt, and the off-lying dangers, Hcrogg rocks, and Brotchy ledge, between Dimtze head and Trial island. The ird light will be found useful by those bound to Victoria or Esquimalt from the eastward ; after rounding Trial island it will indicate a vessel's distance from the shore, and if bound to Esquimalt, a W.S.W. course will lead a safe distance outsiile Rrotchy ledge, until the light I'hanges from red to ir/iifc, when it may be steei-ed for, and not l)efore. Entering Esquimalt harbour, Fisgard island light should be left from one to two cables on the jnn-t hand ; when it l)ears X.W. by W. .', \V. the light changes from ic/iifr to /vy/, and shows the latter colour within the harbour: and when it l)ears S. by \V. at a convenient distance, a vessel may anchor in 7 fathoms, or stand into Constance cove if i)referre(l. The Scrogg rocks on the eastern side of the entrance of the harbour must be avoided ; they lie nearly 4 cables E.S.E. from Fisgard island. Dock. — The graving dock is -i')!) feet long over all, and -430 feel on the blocks : IJ.') feet wide at the entrance, wich a depth of 2t)^ feet over the sill at high watei- ordinary spring tides. This dock is closed l)y a caisson which, if necessary, can be placi'd on the outer side of the outer invert, giving an additional length to fclie doL-k of 30 feet. H.M.S. Warsjiiti', drawing 'ill feet, was docked on LSth July IbOl, the depth on the sill that night was ;28.j feet. See tides, page 12. The Admiralty have the right of priority of use of the Esquimalt dock. There is a marine railway capable of taking up a ship of 2,r)00 tons. Repairs to large machinery can be effected also to the hull of iron ships. Two tons of metal can be run at one time ; cylinders of ijO inches can l)e east and bored ; shafting of inches can be forged and turneil. a ;5-in. shaft up to 21 feet length; pipes of any size can be brazed, masts made and boats built. Sheer legs lift 2."» tons, small crane lifts 2 tons, and 20-ton crane about to be erected. The wharf is SI? feet long, with a depth of Itl feet alongside at low water. Supplies, with the excejttion of fresh beef and bread, must be obtained from Victoria. .*r chart, Xo. l.8»7«. 80 JUAN OK Fl'C.V STRAIT. [Chui). IJ. A t'roHli Wiiter service \h laid on al the dock ; the charf^e \h (5(1 cents per 1,000 ^alionH. Coal is weighed at the mines and sent down as required. Vessels of about 25 feet draught can coal alongside Tlietis island wharf. Vessels can coal alongside Esquimalt wharf ; on the eastern side of which there is a depth of 25 feet at low water. Or coal can l»e taken on board at all times froiu colliers or lighters. EluCtriC telegrraph,. — Esquimau is in telegraphic communica- tion with England iliroiigh Canada, by way of Nanainio and Fiurranl inlet. Also through the United States, by way of Seattle. Tides. — Al Escjuimalt harbour and in the vicinity there is no regular establishment. There are two titles in the lunar day foi- about half of each fortnight, and one tide in each lunar day for the other half, and this appears to be the case throughout the year. Springs rise 7 to 10 feet, neaps 5 to 8 feet. S/'o also nage 12. "Winds. — The strongest and most frequent gales blow from south- west and south-east, which are leading winds in, but rarely from N.W. The south-west is a summer wind, generally fresh, and l)rings tine weather, unless it blows a gale. South-east winds may be looked for during tlie winter months, or between November and March, and geut-rally a strong gale once a month with rain and thick weather. The north-east wind rarely blows with much strength, and always brings line clear weather. VICTORIA HARBOUR, 2 miles eastward from Esquimalt, has its entrance between Ogden and Maclaughlin points. Macaulay point, a remarkable projection nearly miihvay between th^^ two harbours, is a bare Hat point about iJO feet high, showing us a yellow clay cliff, worn by the action of the sea and weather into a rounded knob ft the extreme. The coast for one mile on either side of this point is fringed with sunken rocks, and is dangerous for boats in bad weather, many fatal accidents having occun-^'d.f Navigable depths. — The entrance to the harbour is shoal, narrow, and intricate, and with south-west or south-east gales a •f iSiv Admiralty plan : — Esquimalt and Victoria harbours, No. .">"ti: scale. /// =: G inch«8 ; also Victoria harbour, No. 1,81I7A ; scale. «/ = 10 inchef. Chap. 11.] VICTORIA HARBOUR. 81 heavy rolliner Hwoll sets on the coast, -vvhicli renders the anchorafjo outside unsafe. Vessels drawing,' 14 or lo feet may, nnder ordinary circumstances, enter at high water ; and sliii)s drawing 17 feet have entered, though only at the top of spring tides. At the entrance of thf harhour, on the southern side of Shoal point, there is a wharf which is used l)y the Han Francisco steamers. The pier is 000 feet in length and has a dei)th of 23 at low water. Along the eastern side of the harbour in front of the town there are about 400 yards of fair wharfage, with a depth of from 10 to IG feet at low water spring tides. Pilots. — There are pilots attached to the i)ort, who keep a good look out for vessels off the entrance. Pilotage is compulsory to all merchant vessels, except coasters. Pilots are seldom met with below Race rocks ; but between January and July, in moderate weather, those api)roaching Juan de Fuca strait, and requiring a pilot, may obtain a man comi)ett;nt to take them to Royal roads or port Townsend from the schooner's engaged in the seal fishery ofiC the coast, between cai)e Pifale and Clayoquot sound, at from 5 to 20 miles from the land. Sometimes in Neeah bay a pilot may be had if a gini is fired twice in quick succession. Guns are used by the sealing schooners in foggy weather, but only once in 10 or 1.') minutes, so that a gun fired twice in quick succession would not be mistaken. LIGHTS. — From a white lighthouse 150 feet high, situated on Berens island (west side of Victoria harbour), is exhibited, at an elevation of 44 feet above the sea, an oi-citltiiKj ivhife liglit, witli a period of twenty secomh, thus : — light, Ji/teen .seconds ; eclipse, Jire se'yjnds ; visible in clear weather 10 miles. It shovs a i-rd sector over lirotchy ledge, between N. 'M° W. and N. .^l)" W. Fog" signal. — A bell is rung during thick or foggy weather, in reply to signals frori those approaching the harbour. Shoal point spit beacon consists of three piles, i)ainted red, from the top of which a Ji.red red light is shown, visible in clear weather 3 miles. Pin rock beacon consists of three piles, painted black, from the top of which affixed white light is shown, visible in clear weather 3 miles. &« chart, No. 1,897*. 80 11948 82 JUAN DE FUCA STRAIT. [Cha]). II. Ah these two beacon lifrhts are not conHtautly watched they cannot be implicitly relied on. Brotchy ledge. — About f) cables from Holland point, and in the fairway to Victoria harbour from the eastward, lies the Hrotchy ledge with 5 feet on its shoalest part ; it is about one cable in extent within the r)-fathoms line. The tidal stream, at its maximum strength, sets towards Brotchy ledge at a rate of about 3 knots an hour This shoal is marked by a platform biioy, coloured red and black ii) horizontal stripes, moored on the shoal. The buoy is occasion- ally washed away during the heavy winter gales. Fisgard island lighthouse, north jiari of Brothers island, and ^'^acaulay i)oint in line bearing W. ^ N., leads one cable northward ot the ledge in 9 fathoms, between it and the shore ; and Fisgard island lighthouse, just open southward of Brothers island bearing \V. by N. ^ N., leads 2 cables southward of the ledge in 21 fathoms. A beiicon with red and white horizontal stripes is in course of construction on ikotchy ledge. From this beacon an electric light will be exhibited. Anchoragre. — When anchoring outside the harbour to wait tide, or from other causes, do not come within a line between Ogden and Maclaughlin i)()ints ; this is a good stopping place with off-shore winds or fine weather, 1)ut is by no means recommended as a safe anchorage for sailing-vessels during the winter months, when bad weather comes with little warning. Beaver rock, situated 250 yards N.E. | PI from Laurel point, has a depth of 1) feet over it at low water. Directions. — The entrance to Victoria harbour being only 2 miles eastward from Esquinialt, the same precautions as regards the tides {see page 715) must be observed when making for that harbour ; during daytime Victoria District church, a conspicuous white building with a spire, standing on an eminence, will be seen shortly after rounding Race islands, bearing N. by E. ] E. ; it should be kept just on the starboard bow. At night or during bad Aveather it is strongly recommended not to run for this harbour, as it can only be entered at certain stages of the tide, and the anchorage outside is at such times exposed and See chart, No. 1 ,897*. Chap. Ti.] VICTORIA HARnOUR. 8a iinaafo, wliile Royal bay, or KHcjuimalt harbour are always available and safe ; but if it is decided to run for Victoria, it munt be borne in mind that when Fisprard island li^'ht chanf,'e8 from white to red, a vessel will be very near the shore. The channel is buoyed {stee patre 14), but it is necessary for a stranj^er to take a pilot ; when within, the port is ])ert\'(!tly land- locked, and vessels may lie in from M to IS feet at low water, but the harbour accommodation is limited. Tides. — For all practical i)uri)oses the tides arc the same as at Esquimalt. See page 80. VICTORIA, the seat of the government, has a considerable foreign a!ul coasting trade. The resident population according to the census taken in ISO I was lOjSll, and the town has made great progress since ISoS, when it maybe said to have first spming into existence ; it now covers a large extent of ground, substantial and handsome stone and brick buildings everywhere replacing the wooden structures iirst erected. Victoria has excellent educational institutions, hosi)it;ils, and librarj', and the streets are lighted by the electric light. Harbour and pilot dues are charged ; and there ar(^ sick mariners' dues of 2 cents a ton register thrcK^ times a year on vessels of 100 tons and upwards, and once a year on vessels undei- 100 tons. Instances have been known of shocks of eartlKpiakes being felt at Victoria. Between Victoria and Quatsino sound, medical assistance can only be obtained at Alberni. Supplies. — Provisions of all kinds may be i)rocured, and water from a floating tank capable of going outside the harbour. Coal is weighed at the mines and sent down as required, but a large quantity is not kept in store. Vessels can coal alongside the ■wharves in the harbour, and also from the wharf on the south side of Shoal point. Patent slip. — There are slips on which vessels of 1,000 tons ca i be hauled up. *r chart, No. l,8'J7/-». SO 11948 F 3 8.1 JUAN DE PUCA STRAIT. [Chap. IT. Repairs cuu bo oflectt'd to large machinery. There are steam hiimmera and hithes to turn shafting 10 inches diameter and 20 feet long ; pipes of any size can be brazed ; cylinders of any diameter up to 10 tons can be cast and l)ored ; VI tons of metal can be run at one time. Sheers lift ;'>() tons. Boilers can be made, masts and boats can be built. Quarantine. — There is a (quarantine station for persons affected with infectious diseases ; and a hospital for seamen who are recommended for admission 1)y masters of vessels that have paid sick mariners' dues. The (juarantine station is in Parry bay. The wharf is 480 feet long, with depths of 2') to 150 feet alongside. See page 75. Telegrraph..— A submarine telegraph cable crosses Georgia strait and connects the city with the mainland of British Columbia, and another crosses Juan de Fuca strait to Washington territory. Communications. — 'There is steam communication with San Francisco every five days ; and with Alaska every fortnight throughout the year ; a tri-weel ly service to the east coast of Vancouver island, and a daily service to Port Moody, except on Mondays ; and steamers run daily, except on Sundays, to the ports in Pnget sound. There is daily communication with Nanaimo by rail. There is a fortnightly mail service between Victoria, Port Renfrew, Alberni, Ucluelet, Clayoquot and Ahousat ; and monthly from Victoria, Hesipiiat, Xootka, Kyutjuot, and Quatsino. Victoria to Burrard inlet. — The best route from Victoria to Burrard inlet is south of Trial and Discovery islands, through the main channel of Haro strait, and northward of Stuart and Waldron islands into Georgia sti'ait. Only those with good local knowledge should attempt to navigate the inner channels. The COAST from Victoria harbour trends easterly for 1^ miles to Clover point, and is for the most part faced by white sandy cliffs, from 10 to 80 feet high ; over a sandy beach, and at one cable off, in many places are rocks and foul ground. Two cables East from Holland point are Glimpse reefs, which cover at three-quarters flood Sir chart, No. 576. Chap. IT.] VICTORIA.— TRIAL ISLANDS. 8& Beacon hill, a gontlc rirtc of the land near the coast, and one mile P^ast from Victoria harbour, iH 1 10 feet hij,'h, j,M'assy, and no trees. Clover point, at 2 miles eastward from the entranct^ to Victoria harbour, is low, bare of trees, and projecting? ; it is steep-to, ai\d oil" it strong tide rips form, which are danj^crons to boats. Uoss bay, eastward of it, is open, bnt sometimes used by small craft waiting tide.* Telegrraph.. — The submarine telegra^jh cable connecting Vancouver island with the United States is laid from Clover point to New Dungeness. Foul bay, nearly one mile N.E. from Clover point, is of small extent and filled with rocks. Oil" its entrance are the Ti'inplar rocks, with a depth of about 4 feet on them. Foul point, on the eastern side of Foul bay, is rocky, but the land at the back of the point rises to a height of "SM) feet, forming a rocky ridge known as Gonzales hill. TRIAL ISLANDS, nearly 1^ miles eastward from Clover point, are two in number, bare and rocky, but they generally appear as one. The southern or larger island is 80 feet high, and steep-to at its outer end ; the northern one is low, and from it foul ground extends some distance. Strong tide ripples ])»evail off the southern island, especially during the flood, which runs nearly G knots at springs just outside it. INNER CHANNELS.— The inner channels leading from Juan de Fuca strait into the Haro strait are the Enterprise, Mouatt, Mayor, and Baynes channels, and Hecate and Plumper passages. These channels should not be used by strangers.* Enterprise channel, between Trial islands and the Van<'<>uvcr shore, is tortuous, bnt tiucli used by steam-vessels and coasters trading to Victoria harbour, as a slight saving of distance is effected, and less tidal stream experienced than by going southward of the Trial islands ; it is about one mile long, and half a cable wide, in the narrowest place, and there are not less than 24 feet water in the shoalest part. * tS('i- Admiralty chart : — Inner channels, from .Tuan de Fuca strait to Haro strait. No. 577 ; scale, m = 6 inches. 86 JUAN DB PUCA STRAIT. [CImi). II. McNeil Imy, uu tho north(*rii mUi of tim chiuinol, eiiRtwiird of Foul point, is i\ c!il)lfH ill oxtont, with from 2 to tl fiiilioiiis ; uii<l foul f<rouutl exirttH in itH t'iiHt(;rn part, but the bay is miu-li UHed by Humll vohhi'Ih waitiiif,' tide. « Moiuitt riu'f, ill tlio ouHtorn part of tho channel, nearly 2 cablcH off Hlion«, \h about one cable in extent, and c(»vei'H at (juarti-r Hood ; this ret'f irt dangerous, as it lies just northward of the fairway. McNeil farm, just open west of Kitty islet, u l)are ytdlow rock 1 feet high on the «!aHtern side of McNeil bay, bearing \V. \ N., leads half a cable southward of Mouutt reef; and Channel point, in line with the west si<le of the Great Ohaiii islet bearing N. by E. ] K., loadb nearly 2 cables eastward of it. BRODIE ROOK, a patch of ',) fathoms, lies nearly om* mile N.K. \ N. from tiie summit of south Trial island. Tlu^ northern point of small Trial island in line with Foul point bearing W.S.W. leads 1.3 cables northward of Hrodie rock. Foul i)oint seen between the Trial islands bearing W. j-J S. leads 2.^ cables southward of the rock. Cadboro point in line with the east extreme of Great Chain island bearing N. by W. leads 21 cables eastward of the rock. GONZALES POINT forms the south-east extremity of Vancouver island. It is low, rocky, bare of trees, and steep-to on the eastern side. Oak bay. — From Gonzales i)oint, the A''ancouver shore trends northward, and at one mile from tlu; i)oiut forms a sandy bay which affords fair anchorage. The best ancliorage is northward of Mary Todd islet in the southern part of the bay. This islet is bare, and about liO feet high ; at 2 cables eastward from it is Emily islet, 4 feet above high water, and the same distance southward from Emily islet lies Robson reef, which uncovers at low water. Cadboro bay, 2 miles northward from Gonzales point, is about half a mile in extent, and open to south-east ; no sea, however, rises within it, and there is good anchorage in from 3 to 4 fathoms near the entrance. The Vancouver shore from Gonzales poii^t to this bay 18 low and lightly timbered with dwarf oak and pine trees. Sec chart, No. 577. Chap. II.] TRIAL ISLANDS.— CHAIN ISLKTS. S7 Thames Slioal, <»f 2 inthmm, is of Hinull ('Xtent ; it lii-H ntiu-ly IkJilf ii mile N. by E. ;[ E. from (}t»nz;il('s iM)lnt. Oliamu'l point, in liin' with the westt'iu nnh) of Crrcat ('hain islot bt'arinj,' X. l»,v K. ] E., loads ono ca))ln eastward of this shoal ; and the hi^du'st |i;irt of Trial island in lino with Gonzak'S point bearing S. ;} W. leads lialt' a cable westward of it. Mayor channel, northward of IJon/.ales point, aiid westward of Chain islets, is about 2 miles Ion*,' in a wiiidiiit,' direction to the northward, its breadth in tlie nai-rowest part is :» cables, and thn depths in it vary from <• to i;{ fathoms. The tidal streams seldon run more than ',) knots throuyh this channel, and it is the one generally used. Lee rock, wdiich uncovers at low water springs, lies 1[, cables W.N.W. from Thames shoal ; it is steep-to on tin- eastern side. Between this rock and Thames shoal is Mouatt channel, ouo cable wide. Fiddle reef, at the north-west extreme ol Mayor channel, and u])wards of one mile from Gonzales point, is of small extent, and awash at high water springs. A beacon, consisting of a white conical structure, surmounted by a black pole and cage, stands on Fiddle reef. Todd rock, at H cables W.N.W. from Fiddle reef, in the entrance to Oak bay, covers at two-thirds ilood. Lewis reef, at the north-east part of Mayor channel, lies '2f cables N.W. from Great Chain islet, and coveis at high water. IJctween it and Chain islets the ground is foul. A beacon, consisting of a cylindrical stone tower, coloured black, and surmounted by a cross, stands on Lewis reef. Chain islets, midway between Discovery island and the Vancouver shore, are a bare i-ocky group. (Jreat Chain ish^t is about one cable in extent auti ;')() feet abovt? high water ; it lies at the south-west Ade of the group. Spencer ledge, off their eastern side at H cables from the eastern- most high-water rock, has t> feet on it ; if going through Hecate passage it requires to be guarded against. Cadboro point, open west- ward of Channel point N.N.W. I W., leads one cable eastward of this ledge. Seti chart, No. 577. K8 JUAN DE FUCA STRAIT. [Chap. II. Caroline reef, at the northern part of the group, and connected to it by a rocky ledge, is small and covers at quarter flood, but is well out of the fairway. Foul ground extends upwards of one cable westward from it. DISCOVERY ISLAND is 2 miles N.E. from Gonzides point, at the junction of the Haro and Juan de Fuca straits. It is wooded, about three-quarters of a mile in extent, and its shores on all sides are bordered by rocks, extending in some places more than 2 cables off. Kudlin bay, on its south-east side, is filled with rocks, and should not be used by any vessel. A rock with 9 feet over it lies with Seabird point bearing N. by K. I E., distant 4 cables. Another rock with 15 feet over it lies close N.N.W. of the above rock. LIGHT.— From a white lighthouse 47 feet high, situated on the east extreme of Discovery island, is exhibited, at an elevation of 1»I feet above high water, a fi.vcd white light, visible between the bearings N. 31° E., through west, and S. 12^ E., visible in clear weather 15 miles. Fog" signal. — A steam horn is sounded for 8 seconds followed by one minute silence. CHATHAM ISLANDS, north-west of Discovery island, and separated from it by a narrow boat pass, are of small extent, low, woodeil, and almost connected with each other at low water ; the tidal streams set with great strength between them. Leading point, the south extreme, is a bare rocky islet at high water ; to the eastward of it is a small boat cove. Channel point, their west extreme, is also bare and steep-to. Strong Tide islet, the north-western of Chatham islands, is rocky, about .50 feet high, and wooded ; its western side forms the eastern boundary of Baynes channel, and is steep -to. Refuge cove, on the eastern side of Chatham islands, is small, and has a depth of 1^ fathoms in the centre; coasters or small craft entangled among these islets may find shelter in it. Alpha islet, the easternmost of the group, is bare, and 10 feet above high water ; only a boat should attempt to go westward, or inside it. See chart, No. 5<7. Chap. II.] DISCOVERS ISLANDS. SD Fulford reef, o cables North from the Chatham islands, is about one cable in extent, and covers at one-third flood. When using Baynes channel keep well to the westward to avoid this reef, as the tidal streams set iri ^gularly in its vicinity. Hecate and Plumper passafires.—Discovery island is separated from Chain islets by a passage half a mile wide, forming an apparently clear channel ; but near the middle of the southern part lies Centre rock, which has 3 feet over it. There is a passage on either side of this danger, the western named Hecate, and the eastern Plumper passage. The latter is wider, but the tidal streams set very strongly through both of them. Cadboro point, open westward of Channel point bearing N.N.W. 5 W., leads through Hecate passage In mid-channel, westward of Centre rock. Baynes channel, between Cadboro point and the Chatham islands, is one mile long and half a mile wide ; the depths in it are irregular, and the tidal streams at springs set through it 4 to (5 knots, strongest along the eastern side. Five-fathoms shoal, which lies in the centre of the channel, is not marked by keip. Nearly one cable N.W. from it is another shoal with 16 feet on it ; it lies 3| cables E.N.E. from Jemmy Jones islet. To avoid it, keep a little over on either side of mid-channel. CADBORO POINT, on Vancouver island, at the termination of the Inner channels, is nearly i) miles North from Gonzales point, and three-tjuarters of a mile N.W. from the Chatham islands. It is about .50 feet high, rocky and bare of trees. A small islet lies just off it, also ii reef which covers ; when passing do not approach the islet within 2 cables. The coast wost from Cadboro point to Cadboro l)ay Is low, very much broken, and there are some off-lying rocks. Jemmy Jones islet, which is bare and 1.') feet above high water, lies .3 cables off shore, and 4i cables S. by W. from Cadboro point ; foul ground extends around it for ujnvards of one cable in some parts, and none except small craft should go betv^eeu it and the shore. See chart, No. 677. 90 J'^'AN DB FUCA STRAIT. [Chap. II. Directions. — Thon<,'h the Inner channels are deep, tliey Hhonld not be used except by steam- vessels, or by small crafr, unless in cases of necessity, and a knowledge of the tide is indispensable. Coasters and small steamers, when taking advantage of them, generally proceed through Mayor channel. If using this channel, after passing Gonzales point keep the western side of Great Chain islet in line with Channel point bearing N. by K. | K. till within 2 cables of the islet, when the north end of Mary Todd island will be in line with the north i)oint of Harris island and the vessel will be clear of the Thames shoal, after which steer to the north-west, i)ringing the highest part of Trial island in line with Gonzales point bearing S. ;[ W., and Avith that mark on astern, st((er N. § E., which will lead l)etween Fiddle and Lewis reefs, anil on through Baynes channel, to Haro strait, taking care, however, to avoid the patch of 10 feet lying close to the Five-fathoms shoal, as this mark leads only half a cable westward of the patch. When past Lewis and Fi'iiUe reef, steer N.N.K., and pass out of Baynes channel between Five-fathoms shoal and Strong Tide islet. Going through Mouatt channel, which is very narrow and seldom used, after rounding (Jonzales point one cable distant, bring the highest part of Trial island in line with the point bearing S, i| W., and keeping this mark on astern, and steering N. \ E., will lead through clear of danger. Hecate and Plumper passages are nearly straight. If using either of them, after i)assing either through Enterprise channel, or south- Avard of Trial islands, bring the leading mai'ks (page 8'.*) on, and keep them so till uortlnvard of Centre rock, when steer up in mid-channel between Chain islets and Chatham islands, N.W. by W., towards Cadboro bay, and through Baynes channel into Haro strait. Tides and tidal streams.— The high water at full and change is irregular and much influenced l)y prevailing winds; the greatest rise and fall of ticU' at Discovery island is \2 feet. During summer months in these channels, the flood stream cuu'mences at ILLO a.m., running with great strength till nearly ;5 j).m., after which but little stream is felt till 4 a.m. on the following day, when the ebb commences and runs strongly till nearly 11 a.m., the time of low water bv the shore. /Set! uhiirt, No. 577. Chap. IJ.] IXNER CHANNELS, DIRECTIONS, TI 3ES. 91 CONSTANCE BANK, in Juan do Fuca strait, nearly «> niiloH S.E. by E. from Fisj,'ard island liju'lithoiise, in upwanls of one mile in extent, with depths of from 'J to It fathoms, but do not anchor on it as the bottom is rocky.* FONTE BANK, known also as Ilein bank, within the (U>pths of 10 fathoms, is al)out 1^ miles in vxUmt ; it lias dejjths of from iilj to 5 fathoms on it, and lies nearly in the middle of Juan de Fuca strait, 8 miles K. l)y S. from Discovery island li^'ht. This bank should be avoided, as there may be less Avater on it tlian shown in the chart. HARO STRAIT, the westernmost of the three channels leading from Juan de Fuca strait into (Jeorgia strait, is boundeil on the western side by Vancouver island, and its olf-lying smaller islands and reefs, and on the eastern side by San Juan and Stuart islands, and trends in a N.W. by N. direction for 1<S miles ; it then turns sharply to the N.E. round Turn point of Stuart island, for a further distance of 12 miles, leaving Saturna island to the westward, and Waldron and Patos islands to the eastward, when it enters Georgia strait.* It is for the most part a broad, and for its whole extent a deep navigable ship channel ; l)ut on account of the reefs which exist in certain ])artrf, the general absence of steady winds, the scarcity of anchorages, and, above all, the strengtii and varying lUrection of the tidal streams, much care and vigilance is necessary in '.s navigation, and it is far more adapted to steam than to sailing-vofsels. Besides Haro strait tlius described, there are several channels and passages branching fronx it by which vessels may enti-r Creorgia strait ; thus, Swanson cJiannel leads into tht? strait by Active pass, and the Trincomali and Stuart chaniu'ls by I'ortier pass, or Dodd narrows. These channels may be again cnteri'd by smaller omvs ; thus, Sidney and Cordova channels, on the western side of Haro strait, lead by Moresby, (lolbourue, and Shute passigcs into Swanson, Satellite, and Stuart «-liannels, and finally into (ieorgia strait. Tiiese channels are e*<><'>ntially adapted (o steam Jiavigation, or to coasting vessels ; they aiford smooth water, and many of them anchorages. * >Sfi! Admiralty chiirt :— Haro stniit and Middle chaunul, No. 2,840 ; Hoale, = one inch, 92 HARO AND GEORGIA STRAITS. [Ohap. II Middle bank, lying in the southern entrance of Haro strait, 4 miles E. by N. from Discovery island, and almost in mid-channel, is a rocky patch about 2 miles in extent each way, and the least water found on it is 10 fathoms. In bad weather there are heavy tide ripplings on and in the vicinity of this bank, which are dangerous to boats or small craft. Zero rock, one of the principal dangers in the southern part of Haro strait, lies on the western side of the strait, is about lialf a cable in extent, and covers at three-quarters flood ; it lies G^ miles N.W. from Discovery island light. A rocky patch, part of which nearly uncovers at low water springs, lies .^^ cables N.N.W. ^ W., from Zero I'ock. Discovery island light is obscured in the direction of Zero rock, and westward of it. The beacon on this rock is the frustum of a cone in stonework above which rises a pole surmounted by open slat-work in the form of a triangle, point upwards. The top is 28 feet above high water. Kelp reefs, three-quarters of a mile in extent, lie almost in the centre of Haro strait, 7 miles N.N.W. ^ W. from Discovery island light. They uncover at low springs. The eastern edge of the reefs is marked by a stone beacon 20 feet high, with staff and globe. The buoy previously marking the reefs has been withdrawn. Darcy island. — A shoal patch of 3 fathoms lies northward of Darcy island, with Whale rock and South Dot rock in line. Unit rock lies three-quarters of a mile E. by N. ^ N. from the south-east point of Darcy island, and uncovers 2 feet at low tides. Bare island well open northward of the south-east point of Sidney island, bearing N.W. \ W.. leads eastward of Kelp reefs and Unit rock. Anchorages. — Although there are harbours in Haro strait and its tributary channels, the number eligible for sailing-vessels over- taken by darkness, or an adverse tide, is small. See chart, No. 2,840. Chap. II.] DIRECTIONS. 93 Between Cormorant bay and the northern entrance of Haro strait, Plumper sound and Cowlitz bay are the only eligible stopping places for a sailing-vessel seeking shelter. Stuart island has two fair harbours, and Roche harbour at the north-west end of San Juan island is a suitable anchorage for steam- vessels or small coasters, but no sailing-vessel of moderate tonnage could enter either under ordinary circumstances without great loss of time, as well as risk. CAUTION. — As previously mentioned on pages IC and 2G, seamen are again cautioned that, when navigating the inner waters of British Columbia, it should be constantly borne in mind that many of the main channels and most of the minor passages have only been roughly examined ; detached boulders from the broken shores and pinnacles of rock are still frei|uently found. Whenever, therefore, a broad and clear channel is known to exist, there is no justification in using, without necessity, one of more doubtful character, even if there is some saving in distance, and a ship should always be maintained in the safest possible position in a channel as well as ■when going in or out of port. DIRECTIONS.— Haro and Georgia straits.— After rounding Discovery island, distant one mile, steer N.N.W. ^ W., or for Kellett bluff, a remarkable steep rocky headland. In working up, when standing westward, tack when the north-west extreme of Low island comes in line with the south-east point of Sidney island, which will give the Zero rock a good berth ; but when approaching the Kelp reefs, Bare island must be kept well open eastward of the same point to avoid them. When abreast Kellett bluff, at from half a mile to one mile distant, a N.W. by N. course will pass the same distance from Turn point of Stuart island. There are no known dangers oft' this point ; but whirling eddies and tide ripplings, caused by the meetings of the streams from so many channels, are generally met with, particularly on the ebb. A vessel may reach this point with a fresh southerly wind, but will almost invariably lose it here, until having opened out Middle channel eastward of San Juan. After rounding Turn point, a N.E. h N. course for 10 miles leads to the northern entrance of Haro strait, between the East point of Saturna and Patos islands. This passage is 2^ miles wide, but iB Sae chart, No. 2,8^0. iH HARO STRATT, [Chap. II. Hubjoct to heavy tide ripplin^H and eddies ; when possible pass throu<,'li tlie centre of it, steering for the white cliffs of point Robert. Orcas Nob, well open eastward of Waldron island bearing S.8.E. \ E., leads through in mid-channel ; do not bear away westward until the south end of Sncia is shut in Avith soutli -jnd of Patos island. At night, after passing between kSaturna and Patos Islands, maintain a northerly course for about 2 or 3 miles, and then if the light on Georglna point, at the entrance to Active pass, is not visible, steer N.W. mitil it is sighted, remembering that this light becomes obscured when it bears southward of W. h S., and, as whilst it is in view all (hmgurs on the southern shores of the strait will be avoided, be careful to keep it In sight and by no means stand south- ward of the above line of bearing. The flood stream from Rosario strait, which is met with as soon as the passage between Orcas and Sucia islands is open, is apt to set a vessel towards the East point of Haturna, off which and Tumbo island there is much uneven and broken ground with heavy tide races. This point should be given a berth of 1^ miles, taking care to avoid a dangerous rock lying 7^, cables N.N.E. from Race point, Tumbo island. The ebb stream sets eastward even before Georgia strait is well open, and if not likely to woath(T Patos, ])ass between it and Rucia, where there is a good clear passage of above one mile wide ; if this passfige is taken, the Patos island shore should be kept rather aboard. Beware of the Plumper and Clements reefs ; the former lies 1 j- miles S.W. by S. from the north-west bluff of Sucia island, and has 10 feet on it ; the latter the sanio distance N.E. .\ N. from the same bluff, and has 8 feet over it. When in Georgia strait, from W. by N. to W.N.W. is a fair mid- channel course. If bound for Eraser river, a N.W. by W. course from the centre of the channel between Patos island and East point of Saturna will lead to the Sand heads, a distance of nearly 20 miles. Entering the strait and having passed northward of Patos island, if the ebb stream is running, a sailing vessel is extremely liable, unless with a commanding breeze, to be set eastward and down Rosario channel. The northern shore of Sucia island should by all means be avoided ; if Alden bank can be reached it offers a good anchorage while See chart, No. 2,840. Chap IT.] niRBCTIONS. — TIDES. 05 waiting for a tide. Alden point, tho west point of Patos island, in line with Monarch head, a bold cliff j* bluff, boaring S.W. h W., leads over the northern edge of this bank in from (5 to fathoms. {Scr view A on chart 2,(18'.).) When mount Constitution is in line with the centre of Matia island, bearing H.S.K. }^ E., a de])th of 1) fathoms may bo expected, and do not anchor in much less than this depth, as in the shoaler parts, rocky ground is found ; the least water on the bank is 2\ fathoms. Against a foul wind and ebb stream woi'k up on tho northern shore ; there are no known dangers, little stream when eastward of a line between Roberts point and Alden bank, and anchorage may always bo had within one mile of the shore if necessary. Birch and Scmiahmoo baj'S offer good anchorage, and are easy of access. In working up Georgia strait the southern shore should never be approached within 2 miles until westward of Active pass, and then not within one mile ; the tides sweep strongly along this shore, and there are several outlying reefs between East i)oint and Active pass. As soon aa the strait is entered from the southward, Rol)erts point will show its eastern part as a bold white-faced cliff, its western as a low shingle point ; its summit is covered with trees, and it wouhl at first sight be taken for an island in conse(pience of the land on its northern side falling rapidly in elevation. After passing northward of this point, its low-water extreme, or the trees just within it, must not be brought to bear southwai'd of E. .V S. to avoid Roberts bank, which extends 5 miles off Eraser river entrance, is steep-to, and shoals suddenly from 25 to 2 fathoms. Tidal streams. — The tidal streams set fairly through the main channel of Haro strait, outside Kel}) reefs, and inside them through Cordovaand Sidney channels ; passingoutside Kel]) reefs andeastward of Sidney It^land, a part of the flood stream branches eastward between San Juan and Stuart islands, and there meeting the flood from Middle channel, cause heavy races and eddies, so that although there are deep Avater channels between these islands, they are not recom- mended for sailing-vessels. In like manner the flood runs N.W. between the group of islands, northward of Sidney island, and through Shute and Moresby passages, though the main stream will be found to run fairly between Stuart and Moresby islands. See chart, No. 2689. 96 HARO STRAIT. [Chap. II. JOHNSTONE REEF, on which there is a depth of r> or feet, lies three-quartern of a mile from the sliore, midway between Cadboro point and Gordon head ; it is of small extent. A rock, on which is a depth of 2 fathoms, with 11 to 20 fathoms aroimd, lies 2} cal)les S.S.W. from the south-eastern rock of Johnstone reef, v'ith Oadboro point bearing S.p]. CORMORANT BAY, between Gordon and Cowitchin heads, on the western side of Haro strait, is a good stopping-place and easy of access under most circumstances. It may be entered either to the southward or northward of Zero rock ; the passage to the southward is 1^ miles in l)readth, with a depth of 20 fathoms. Mount Douglas, a remarkable hill G9rt feet high, with its summit bare of trees, rises immediately over the coast at the head of the bay. Three shoal patches, with from G to 12 feet water on them, lie from one to li miles W. h S. from Zero rock, but there is a clear passage of nearly one mile in width, with 20 fathoms water, between the rock and the nearest shoal. The tidal streams are not much felt in Cormorant bay when west- ward of Zero rock, and the holding ground is good. This anchorage is exposed to S.E. winds, but a vessel with good ground tackle will always be perfectly safe. PLUMPER SOUND. — If necessary to anchor in Haro strait between Stuart island and the east point of Saturna island, Plumper sound is recommended as safe and convenient, easy of access with the wind from any quarter. The entrance lies 5 miles N.N.E. i E. from Turn point, and an equal distance from Saturna lighthouse. Blunden (Douglas) island,* close to the shore of Pender island, with only a boat passage (choked with rocks and kelp) between, forms the western entrance point ; Monarch or Java head (Saturna island), a high bold rocky headland, the eastern. There is anchorage in a moderate depth of water in most parts of it, and little tide is felt. The water is too deep for convenient anchorage, the first two miles being generally from 25 to .'■)0 fathoms, except on the southern side, where if necessary an anchor may be dropped at a quarter of a mile from the shore, in from 10 to 12 fathoms. * It is stated that a local pilot obtained a cast of 22 feet in the tide rip charted at 1^'a miles East from Blunden island. In 1895 a line of sounding was taken over this spot from H.M.S. Nymphe, when no bottom was obtained at 70 fathoms. See chart, No. 2,840. Chap. II.] PLUMPER SOUND. 97 At 2 mili'8 within tho drpth ilecreaHos rather suddenly to 10 fathoms, and oxceUoiit anchoraj,'!' may be liad in almost any part; tho most convoniont is ofl' tlu' t-ntranci' to port Browning on the southern side in S fathoms, at half a mile from the shore, with the eastern ))oint of liluuden island just open of the land westward of it, bearing K. i S. A rocky patch of small extent, with TO feet on it, and steep-to. lies on the eastern sid(^ of Phim])er sound, with Oroker jmint 2i| cables E. by S. The western extrenu of Fane islet, in line with the north-east extreme of Pender island, loads south-westward of tho patch. Above i)ort Browning avoid Perry rock, with (> feet on it ; it is 2 cables from the shore, and three-quarters of a mile N.W. by N. from Razor point. Port Browning: is on the southern side of IMnmper sound ; it is one-third of a mile wide, bxat rather less at the entrance. The depth decreases from 10 fathoms at the entrance to 4 fathoms at its head, with good holding ground. The best anchorage is in the centre just above Shark cove, which is a convenient creek, with 4 fathoms in it, on the southern side of the harbour, three-ijuarters of a mile within the entrance ; here a ship might beach and repair on a sandy spit. Shark cove is separated from Bedwell harbour by an isthmus l.'iO yards wide, across which the natives launch their canoes. Lyall harbour is in the south-east comer of Plumper sound, and its southern entrance point, Elliot bluff (cliffy), bears N. i E. distant 2 miles from the entrance to Port Browning. King isletft two low rugged islets, with a reef extending nearly one cable of! their western end, form the northern entrance, which is half a mile wide. The harbour trends easterly 1| miles, gradually narrowing and terminating in a sandy beach with a stream of good fresh water at its head ; the depths decrease regularly from i< to 4 fath(jms. Crispin rock, with 6 feet on it, is a pinnacle, exactly in the middle of the harbour, half a mile E. by S. from outer King islet ; there is, however, a clear passage on either side of it 1^ cables wide, and when anchoring above it, drop the anchor in 5 fathoms, at half a mile from the beach at the head of the harbour. See chart, No. 2,840. 80 1194b 1)8 HAflO STRAIT. [Cha]). IT. The anchomgo outsido ('rispin rock is with outer Kiii^r inh^t ht'iiriii},' N.W. by N., diHtant oiu'-thinl of a mil*', in 7 fathoinH, iniuldy bottom. Boot cove, oil the Bouthern Hich; of the harbour, has '.\ fathoujs water, and is a convenient wpot for re))airinff a vessel ; a small islet lies off its western entrance jjoint. Sa.IIluel island, between Saturna and Mayne islands, is almost connectetl with both, but leaving? two passages by which boats or even small coasters niiiy |)ass into Geor^nii strait at projjer times of tide. Winter cove is between Samncl island and the north-west point of Saturna. The depths beiiii,' from 2 to '^ fathoms it is only lit for small vesstds. ('easting vessels might take the passage at slack watei', or l)oats overtaken in the strait by bad weather might take shelter under the lee of Belle chain, and enter Plump«'r scmnd by this pass on the Hood tide. Water is easily obtainable during the winter or rainy months from streams in almost any part of Plumper sound. At the head of Lyall harbour or port Ih-owning, constantly in the former, a certain ([uantity may be procured during the driest months of summer from .June to August. NAVY CHANNEL is a continuation of the western part of Plumper sound, and leads to Georgia strait or Fmser river by Active pass ; or to Nanaimo, or any of the north-western ports of Vancouver island. Conconi reef lies about midway through Navy channel, 1| miles from Fane island, and nearly 2 cables off the northern shore, and narrows the strait at that part to one-third of a mile. It is a ledge of rocks extending in the direction of the channel for more than one cable, covering at half tide ; and a patch of 2 fathoms extends nearly 2 cables westward fi'om it. The general depth of water in the channel is from 20 to ){0 fathoms. Enterprise reefs are two rocky patches, the westernmost of which is covered at a quarter flood. The outermost of these reefs lies one mile W.N.W. from Dinnei- point, the north-west entrance point of Navy channel. A patch of 2 fathoms lies 2 cables E.S.p]. from the westernmost rocky patch. Sfe chart. No. 2.840. • * Chap. II.] PLUMPER SOUND. 99 Beacon. — A white beacon 22 feet above lnf?h water Btands on Rnterpriwo reef, near itH western extremity ; to the pyramidal framework of the beacon are tixeil two disks at right anj^les to each other. Directions. — When using Navy cliunnel, keep rather southward of mid-channel. When bound throupli Trinconiali channel or Active pass, steer over towards Prevost island until Pelorus point (the east point of Moresby island) is open of Mouatt point (the west point of Pender island), bearing S.E. ^ S. ; then haul up N.W. i( N., keeping the marks just open, which will lead over one-third of a mile to the westward of Enterprise reefs. Set; View C, on chart No, 2,840. When Helen point, which is a low bare yellow point, bears N. by K., or the northern beacon comes well o|)en v/estward of the southern one, steer for the entrance (»f Active ])ass, or shajje course up the Trincomali channel. Tidal streams. — The flood stream 'from the Swanson channel runs through Navy channel to the eastward, and meets the flood in Plumper sound, causing a slight ripple at the eastern entrance ; its strength is upwards of ,T knots. BEDWELL HARBOUR, the entrance to which lies .Smiles west- ward from the southern entrance of Plumper sound, is, on account of its narrow entrance, not so eligible a stopping place for waiting the tide as the latter ; but for steam-vessels it is a good harbour. Its narrowest part, which is at the entrance, is a quarter of a mile wide, but it soon opens out to half a mile, and trends W.N.W. for 2 miles, with depths of from .5 to 10 fathoms, mud bottom. The only known danger which does not show is Drew rock, with 10 feet on it, in the centre of the harbour, one-third of a mile from its head ; there is, however, no necessity to go as far up as this. The most convenient anchorage is in a bay on the northern shore, two-thirds of a mile within the entrance, in 8 fathoms, midway between Hay point and Skull reef ; the latter always shows some feet above high water. Gamp bay, between Bedwell harbour and Plumper sound, and half a mile westward of Blunden island, offers shelter as a stopping place to small craft, when not convenient for them to work into either of these ports. S*e chart, No. 2840. SO 11948 02 100 HAno STRAIT. [Chap. IT. STUART ISLAND, 3 miien N.W. from the northern part of San Juan iHland, Ih '.\ uuIvh Umf( in an east and went direction, and 042 feet hif,'h, the HunimitH of the hillH bein^' i)artially bare of trees. There are two anciionij»t'8 in Stuart inliind, Reid harbour on its southern Hide, aiid Prevopt harbour on its northern, but botli are HUiall and intricate for rtaiIinj,'-veHHels hvrjjfer tiian coaHterH. Turn point, the north-wewt extn-nu' of Stuart inhmd, is a bohl cliffy bluff. LIGHT. — Turn point light isy/./vy/ ii'hitr of small i)owt>r, i'xhibited from a white st^vft" li') feet above high water. The fog signal house, and the ktn'per's dwtdling, each painted white with brown roofs, are situated close south-eastward of the light staff. "Fog sigrnal. — Turn point fog signal is a Daboll trunii)et, which during thick or foggy weather gives blasts of tfiree seconds duration, separated by silent intervals of twenty seven seconds. Reld harbour. — When entering Reid harbour from the south- ward, beware of being drawn by the flood stream into the channel between San .Juan and Stuart islands, where there are sev(*ral dangers, and the tidal streams are most irregular in their direction. The south-west side of Stuart island should, therefore, be tirst closed. The harbour is one mile N.W. from Spieden bluff (a remarkable bare grassy point, generally of a yellow colour), the western extreme of the island of the same name. Gossip island lies in the entrance, from which a shoal extends 1^ cables W. by N.; leave it on the starboard hand when entering. The channel is 1| cables wide with depths of from 4 to .') fathoms. The btbt anchorage is off an Indian village on the southern side at abouf half a mile within the entrance. Prevost harbour, on the northern Bide of Stuart island, 1^ miles eastward from Turn point, has James island lying in the centre of it. The entrance is westward of this island, between it and Charles point, and is about 2 cables wide. Anchor in 6 fathoms as soon as the eastern arm opens out, or run up the arm into 4^ fathoms ; here it is narrow, but prefectly sheltered. ^^'^ chart, No. 2,84g, n y C\\ii\f. II.] STUAHT IhI.aKO.— .SlMKDKN t'HANNKL. Tliorc is MO rthij) piiHsuiri' euHtwunl of .!ainc8 isliind. 101 Johns island li«'rt fiistwanl of ^^tuart islaiifl, Boparatotl from it '>y a navij^abU' chaiuiel narin^w and n<»t recommtMuled. Sevenvl islets and rocks, all abovt^ water, extend three-iiuarters'of a niilo S.K. from tin- eastern (^nd of Johns island ; the flonthenunost of those are named Cactus islands. Onll reef, 2 feet above high water, lies half a mile W. ^ N. from Cactns islands ; rocks extend easterly from it more than one cable. SPIEDEN ISLAND, lying between San Juan and Stuart islands, is 2| miles long in an east and west direction, and very narrow ; its southern side grassy and l)are of trees, its summit and northern side thickly woodeil ; Green point, its eastern t'xtreme, is a sloping grassy point. There is a channel on both sides of Spieden island ; but from the strength and irregularity of the tidal streams, antl the hidden dangers which exist in certain parts of them, they cannot be recommended for sailing-vessels, nor indeed to any vessel without a pilot. Spieden Oliannel, between Spieden island and San Juan, has a general W. by S. and E. by N. direction. Sentinel islanil li'?8 in the western entrance of this channel, it is about loO feet high ; the passage between it and Spietlen island is more than one cable wide with a depth of 25 fathoms. When using Spieden channel keep Spieden island shore aboard, and pass between it and Sentinel island. There is much less tide here than in the centre of the channel, or on the San Juan shore. Sentinel rock lies 2 cables W. by N. ^ N., from the island. Centre reef is a dangerous patch, awash at low water, lying almost in the centre of the channel, half a mile S.W. by S. from Sentinel island. Both the flood stream from Haro strait, and the ebb stream through Spieden channel set on to the reef ; therefore, when nearing it, the San Juan shore should be kept aboard, avoiding the shoal which lies 1^ cables N. by W. \ W. from Bare islet. Danger shoal has 2 fathoms on it, and lies three-quarters of a mile S.S.W. I W. from Spieden bluff. Bare islet, a rock about 15 feet high, lies in the southern part of the channel, one mile E. by N. ^ N. from Morse island. A shoal patch of 15 feet lies nearly Ij^ cables N. by W. } W, from the islet ; depths of from 15 to 5 fathoms extend See cbart, No. 2,840. 102 HARO STRAIT. [Chap. II. nearly 'i cables westward from the patch. A black can buoy in 6 fathoms marks the north-west extreme of the shoal ground. Directions. — Bound eastward through the Spieden channel, pass about a quarter of a mile northward of Morse island, and then steer N.E. by E. ^ E. for Green point (the east extreme of Spieden island) until Sentinel island bears N.N.W. ; the dangers in the western entrance will then be passed, and a straight course may be steered through ; bearing in mind that less tide will be found near Spieden island shore. Bound westward through this channel, if the passage between Spieden and Sentinel islands is not taken, the shore of Spieden island should be kept aboard to avoid the tide races. If Centre reef is awash, or the kelp on it is seen, pass a quarter of a mile Soi&th of it, and steer to ptiss the same distance northward of Morse island. If Centre reef is not seen, take care not to bring Morse island to bear southward of S.W., until Bare islet bears S.E. New channel northward of Spieilen island, though narrower than the one just described, is deep, more free from danger, and the navigation of it more simple ; the channel is a quarter of a mils wide between Spieden and Cactus islands, and care should be taken not to get entangled among the reefs northward of the latter. The flood stream sets north-eastward among them ; but it also sets fairly through New channel, and by keeping the Spieden island shore aboard, there will be no danger of being set to the northward ; the ebb stream runs south-westward between Spieden and Johns islands. SAN JUAN ISLAND, the western coast of which forms for some distance the eastern boundary of Haro strait, is 13 miles in length in a N.W. anil S.E. direction, with an average breadth of about 4 miles. Its western coast is steep and rocky, and affords no anchorage. Mount Dallas rises abruptly 1,086 feet, but the eastern side of the island falls in a more gentle slope, and affords a considerable extent of good land available for agricultural or grazing purposes. Towards the southern end, and visible from seaward, are some white buildings, the farming establishment of the Hudson bay company ; the south-eastern extreme terminates in a white clay cliflP, over which rises mount Finlayson to a height of 5.50 feet. See chart, No, 2,840. I m la >^f chap. 11.] NEW CHANNEL.— KOCH K HARBOUR. \m remarkable as iKMnff entirely clear of trees on its southern side, while it is thickly wooded on the northern. There is a ch-an f»ravel beach under mount Finlayson, where boats can generally land. Off the north-west end of San .Juan lies Henry islaml, only separated from it by a narrow channel 'Mosciuito passivge) ; it might be easily taken for a part of San Juan, the passage appearing merely as an indentation in the latter. Open bay has more the appearance cf a channel than Mosijuito nasKage. There is no shelter in the l>ay, or anchonige in the passage, for anything but coasters. Mosquito passage trends in a northerly direction for l\ miles, is a little over hall" a mile in I)readtli, and is studdeil with numerous reefs. Westcott creek branches of! N.E., and affords a haven for coasters. There is a :2-t'athoms channel through the passage, and into this creek. I Roche harbour, between San .Juan ami Henry islands, is land- locked, and half a mile in i-xtent with depths of from <i to S fathoms over the greater part of it. It must l)e entered from the northward by others than small craft ; its entrance is somewhat confined, but not very difficult of access, and it affords good shelter wlu'n w ithir Tlie l)readth of the entrance between Inman point (Henry island) and the shore of Pearl island is over 2 cables, but the navigable channel is contracted to little over half a cable by shoal water which o.Ktends off' both shores. A stranger must not count on more than 24 feet at low water when rounding in. Morse island, a small flat cliffy island, about 150 feet high, li».'s a quarter of a mile W.N.\V. from the north point of Henry island. I'earl island, about 4 cables long east and west, and li cal)les broad, and wooded, lies i)i the centre of the passage, forming two entrances, the eastern of which, however, is bai-reil ; off the noitliern side of Pearl island is a small islet (Neck) connected to it at low water. Scout patch, a dangerous spit projecting from Inman point, has 17 feet on it; and although there is a depth of a fathoms in mid- channel, great care must be eiercised to avoid this patch by those drawing over 14 feet. * ik'e Admiralty plan of lloche harbour mid approachew. No, 602 ; soalo, w ss 6 inohea, 104 HAUO STIIAIT. [Chap. IT. A good anchoragu ih in G fatlioins, witli the western en<l of Pearl island N.W., distant about a quarter of a mile, and the north i)art of Henry island just open of it. If working in, remember that a shoal of 15 feet lies 1^ cables northward from IWe islet. The time of high water at full and change in Roche harbour is irregular ; sjirings rise 12 feet. WALDRON ISLAND lies in the northern entrance of Middle channel, but as its anchorages are frequently available for vessels passing to or from H-iro strait, it seems desirable that it should be described while treating of that neighbourhood. The island is thickly wooded, moderately high, and clitTy on its southern and eastern sidei- but falling to the northward, where it terminates in low sandy points. Disney point, its southern extreme, is a remarkable, high, stratified bluff. Cowlitz bay, on the western side of Waldron, between Disney and Sandy points, affords good anchorage Avith all winds, the depth of water from '.) to <S fatlioms, and the hoUling ground stiff mud ; it may be sometimes more desirable for sailing-vessels to anchor here than to work '2 or ;{ miles up into Plumper sound, particularly for those coming up Middle channel. If a south-easter is blowing, stand far enough in to get smooth water under shelter of Disney point ; no sea, however, to affect a vessel's safety gets up in this bay with any wind. Mouatt reef, with a depth of 3 feet on it, lies half a mile N.W. ^ N. from Disnej* point. If entering from the southward, Disney point should be kept within less than half a mile, particularly on the ebb, for as soon as Douglas or President channel (the continuation of Middle ■'hannel) is opened out, through which the streams set sometimes at ae rate of 5 knots, a vessel is apt to be set down on Danger rock. White rook, fronting Cowlitz bay, is 35 feet high, and bare, it has a sunken reef extending 2 cables N.W. from it. Danger rock, with 5 feet on it, and on which the kelp is rarely seen, lies one-third of a mile S.E. by E. ^ E„ from White rock. Caution. — It is particularly recommended to give these rocks a wide berth, as with the strong tides, the water is too deep for anchorage in case of getting entangled among them in light winds. Sfe chart, No. 2,840. Chap. II.] WaLdron island.— satUuna isLaSix 105 North bay, on the north-wt-nt side of Waltlroii island, afl'imls ancliora^'i' ii' S ti> 10 I'athoiiis about a (inartt'i- of a mile oil' shore, Imt is not by any means such a de.sirable place as (Jowlitz bay, the bank l)olng rather steep, and the tidal streams more felt. SATURNA ISLAND and PATOS ISLAND, between whieh is the iiortlutru entrance to lluro strait ju>.t tlescriljotl, are marked l)y 1 ights. LIGHTS.— Saturna or East point ligrht is i-rndviiKj whiir, attaining its greatest brilliancy every tliirtij scrondu, visible l)et\veen N. :V.»° K., through west, and H. T)')^ E., it is 140 feet above the sea, and visible in clear weather LS miles. The lighthouse, painted white, with a red hauern, is s(piare in shape. PatOS or Alden point light isjUvd ml of small power. Fog" signal. — A trum}H't on I'atos point gives blasts of tirn seconds, f:Alo\viid by a silent interval of eit/hteen seconds. S:r ohart, No. 2,810. lOfi CHAPTER III. THE WESTERN CHANNELS AND ISLANDS TO GABRIOLA PASS. Vai-iatiou 23° to 24° East, in 18D8. The WESTEPF CHA.NNELS of HARO STRAIT may hv used with advu i y steam-vesselH or coasters bouinl from tho southern ports of ouver island to Georgia strait, or to the districts Saaii'ch, Cowiichin, Nanaimo, and the numerous inter- mediate harbours ; the advantages over the Haro strait consist in the strength of tide being less, besides sheltered anchorage being obtainable in almost all parts ; while in the latter strait the depth of water is so great that it is impossible to anchor, and sailing-vessels may frequently l)e set back into Juan de Fuca strait, thus entailing great delay as well as risk.'* On the other hand, the western channels are not free from danger, yet, with the assistance of the chart, and a good look-out from aloft for kelp, a precaution which should never be neglected, they may be navigated during daylight with ease and safety. SIDNEY CHANNEL, between James and Sidney islands, is the best ; it is nearly one mile wide, with depths of from 14 to 20 fathoms, until near its northern end, where shoal patches with only () to i) feet water on them, marked by kelp, lie 3 to 5 cables off the western point of Sidney island. Whale islet, a small rock feet above high water, lies at the southern entrance to Sidney channel, and is joined to Sidney island by a sand spit. Sidney spit, the north-west end of the island, is a low sandy tongue with a few trees on its extreme. There is gooil anchorage off this spit in 8 fathoms water. * i'Sfe Admiralty chart : — Haro and Rosario t^braits, No. 2,tj.S'j ; scale, /// = O.") inches ; also Admiralty chart : — Haro Htrait and Middle channel, No. 2,840 ; scale, w= I'U inch. * Chap. III.] SIDNEY CHANNEL.— CORDOVA CHANNEL. 107 A spit, with a depth of 3 fathoms, extends in a northerly direction from the north-east point of James island. North-westward of the spit, the depth increases quickly to 5 and 1) fathoms. A sunken rock, with a depth of 20 feet on it and deep water around, is situated about one cable from the western coast of Sidney island, with the beacon at the north-west point of Sidney island bearing N.N.W. j| W., distant 13^ cables. ' Beacon and buoys. — A beacon consisting of a cone 40 feet high, surmounted by a pole and cage 10 feet high, the whole coloured white, has been erected on Sidney spit. A black spar buoy, shewing 10 feet above water, marks the south- east extreme of the two 3 fathoms patches west of Darcy island. A buoy, colo'ired red and black in horizontal bands, is mooretl in IG feet on the south-eastern of the two rocky patches oil" tiic north- west part of Sidney island. Sidney. — The town Sidney is situated on the coast about U, miles southwaril of Shoal harbour. Shoal ground, with general dei)th«; of l^ to 4 fathoms, extends about 3 cables in an east and south-t-.h^t direction from the town. The outer edge of the shoal ground is marked by two red spar buoys. Northward of Sidney, a shoal with 'J feet at its outer extreme and 4 to 7 fathoms close eastward, extends about 3 oabh-s from the coast. From the extreme the wharf at Sidney bears S. by W. ;[ W. about 3^ cables. Cordova channel between James island and Vancouvisr island is a fair passage with little tide ; it is not, however, to be prcferri'd to Sidney channel, neither is any saving in distance gained by taking it, and it cannot be recommended for vessels drawing over 14 feet, as the navigable channel at its southern entrance betwei-n the banks extending off from the south-west bluff of .lames island and the main island shore is only 3 cables wide, and has a siind bank over one cable in extent, with 15 feet water on it lying in the centre of the passage. A little northward from Cowitchin head, low swamjjy land extends 2 miles N.N.W., and about a quarter to half a mile oft" the high land ; shoal water extends from one to 2 cables outside this flat. ike obart. No. 2,)i40. k 108 HARO StRAlT, WESTERN CHANNELS. [Chap. III. The southern face of James island is a niodorately high and steep white chvy cliff, its summit covered with trees ; towards the eastern part of this clilf arc two remarkable notchi^s on its summit. A bank, having from one to 3 fatlioms water on it, extends one mile to the eastward, and nearly iialf a mile to the southward and westward from the south-west bluff of .James island. A shoal three-quarters of a mile in extent, haviiifj depths of from li to 3 fathoms on it, lies south-eastward from the island, the centre of it bears S.E. by E. ^ E., ilistant IJ miles from south-west bluff James island. Directions. — If the i)a8sai,'e inside Discovery and Chatham islands has been taken, and intending,' to take the Sidney channel ; when abreast Cadboro point, steer N.N.W., keeping the passage between that point and Chatham islands open astern, until mount Tuam (on the southern point of Admiral island) is in line over the centre between the two remarkable notches on James island bearing N.W. by W., ,w View D, on chart No. 2,840. This mark will lead nearly one mile eastward from Zero rock, 3 cables westward from the 3 fathoms patches off Darcy island, and between thein and the shoal of 1> feet extending south-eastward from James island. When Morse island is in line with the south-east point of Sidney island, bearing N.E. ^ N., alter course to N.N.W., to avoid the shoal which extends one mile E. by N. ^ N., from south-west bluff of James island ; pass about 3 cables westward from Whale islet, and then steer up mid-channel, and avoid the shoal patches oft' the west end of Sidney island, but not by shutting Whale islet in with Darcy island, until the end of aidney spit bears North. If passing outside Discovery and Chatham islands, at about one mile oft" shoi-e, steer N.W. ^ N., until the leading marks (mount Tuam in line between the two remarkable notches on James island, bearing N.W. by W.) are on, when proceed as before directed. MINERS CHANNEL. — Low and Bare islands are two small islands lying off the eastern side of Sidney island, and between them and the latter there is a good passage, half a mile wide, with 8 fathoms least water ; a 3 fathoms patch one cable in extent lies 2^ cables N. by E., from the east point of Sidney island, the southern entrance of the channel. This channel may prove convenient for those having passed up Haro strait eastward of Kelp reefs, and desiring to take the inner channels to Saanich, Cowitchiu, or through Stuart channel. See chart, No. 2,840. i Chap. III.] MINRRS rHANNBL.— JONES ISLAND. 109 After pa.ssing Bare irilanJ a cunr.se should bo steered between Sidney spit and Jones island. Having? passed to the northward of Sidney island, either by Cordova, Sidney, or Miners channels, the Shute or Moresby passages may be taken as convenient ; if bound for Saanich Cowitchin, or through Stuart channel, the former is preferable while the latter offers a more direct course through the Swanson or Trincomali channels, or to Fraser river by Active pass. The eastern side of Sidney island affords good anchorage in 8 fathoms, out of the tide, off a bay S.S.W. from the north end of Bare island ; the bay is shoal as far out as a line between its entrance points. Midway between Low ami Bare ishinds, and on the line, between their north-west points, is a reef which uncovers ; and a rock which nearly uncovers lies 4 cables N. ^ W., fix)m the north-west end of Low island. There is a rock \\ feet above high water bcai'ing W. by N. I N., distant one-third of a mile from the nortli-west end of Bare island. Shute passagre. — To enter this ])assage, after leaving Sidney spit, pass between Jones island and the Little grouj), then eastward of Coal island, Knapp and Pym islands, and between Piers and Portland islands, when the Satellite channel will be enterud, which leads directly to Saanich, Cowitchin, and the western parts of Vancouver island. This is a good clear channel, and with the assistance of the chart may be used with much facility. Jones island lies two-thirds of a mile North from Sidney spit, with a clear passage between of from 15 to 20 fathoms ; shoal rocky ground extends one cable westward from the north-west point of Jones island, and the tides set with considerable strength (2 to 5 knots) round this point ; detached rocks extend 2 cables (eastward from the east end of the island. Tree, Hill, Domville, Comet, and Goooll islands which lie in the fairw?v between Sidney and Moresby islands, art moderately low, and wo< ided, but the passages between them are not recommended unless to those well acquainted with the navigation of this locality. North Cod reef is about 2 cables in extent, and covers at a quarter flood, it lies 4 cables S. ^ E. from the west end of Gooch island. iSet chart, No. 2,84U. 110 U\nO aTRATT, WKSTKIIN PHANNHTia. [Chap. HI South 0()(l roof, iilHo about 2 oablos in oxtont, has fi foot on it at low \vat»>r, it lios 7 cablos S. \ K., from tho wost ond of Oooch inland ; both roofn aro markod by kolp. A i)atcli of 2 fathoms, markod by kolp, lios nearly midway botwoon tho sonthorn ond of Jonos and Donivillo ifllands ; the passage botwoon (rooch ami Comet ialan<ls is filled with kelp. The Little group lies two-thinls of a mile W. by N. from .bmes island. They consist of four rooky islets, one-third of a mile in extent, east and west, bare of trees, and connect»'(l by ro(^fs ; there is a ^innl passauro of 12 fathoms water b(>twe»i)i tliom and Jones island. Bird islet, lying on the eastern side of Shuto passage, and two-thirds of a mile N.N.W. from the north point of JonoH island, is about G feet above high water, and has a cluster of reefs around it oui' cable in t>xtont, markod by koli) ; between it and Coal island there is a dear passage (me mile wide, with from 20 to 30 fathoms water. Coal island, which helps to form the western side of Shute passage, lies close off the north-east extreme of the Saanich peninsula, and immediately at the tMitranco of Shoal harbour ; it is one mile in extent and thickly wooded. When working np the passage between Bird islet and Coal island, a vessel should not stand to the westward of a line joining the east t'ud of Little group to the east point of Coal island, as a rock which covers at a quarter flood lies 4 cables W.N.W. from the east end of the group, A small patch with 4 fathoms over it, and probably less marked by kelp, lies one mile -N.E. from the east point of Coal island, more than three-quarters af a mile N.N.W. ^ W. from Bird islet, and one-third of a mile S.W. from Yellow islet. When abreast the east point of Coal island, and distant one-third of a mile, a W.N.W. course will lead through Shute passjige in mid-channel, passing eastward of Pym island, off the eastern side of which a reef which uncovers extends a little more than one cable. As patches of kelp have been seen extending some distance from the south side of Pym island, caution must be observed when passing between that island and Coal island. ' ^ Ste chart, No. 2840. Chiip. III.] lifTTI.K (;UOiri',— MOItKSUV I'ASHACJK. m 1 Gella reef, whidi Hch Itclwccn I'ym and PortliUid IsIuimIh, must uIho b(' iivoiilcil. The It'iwt wutcr roiiiid on it \h S I'cct ; it is uiJirkt'il l)y Ivt'lp, iind l'w» two-tliinla (tl" ;i iiiih* North from tho north point of Pym ishmd. Yt'Uow ishmd kept just open northwurd of Snitiiicl ishmd* boiirinj» K. } S., leads more tlian ont* cable southward of (!elia r»H'f ; and Heaver i)oint (Admiral island), in line with Steep blufV (l'(»rtland island), bearing' N. \ W., leads westward of it. Knapp and Pym islands are small and wooded, lyiuK between Piers and (Joal islaiuls. 'IMu* passaj,'e between PlorH and Portland islanils is over one mile in l)readth ; about on*; (lable oil' the (^astern side of Piers island is a roek always uncovered ; and a nu'f extends from the western Hide of Knapp island. Having' ))assed westward lu'tween these islands a vessel is fairly in Sat<'llite channel. Cape Keppel, in line with C/owitehan lii^ad, W. | S. southerly, leads tIiroui,'h Colburne passa<?e ii» (S to 10 fathoms betwec^i the two buoys. MORESBY PA.SSAQE.— Vfter ieavin-,' the norihern eml of Sidney island, the directions for Moresby i)assaj,'e are the same as th»'S(^ already ^iven for Sliutci passaj,'e, until abreast the east ])oint of Coal island. From about one-third of a mile olf this point tin; direct course throu^'h the ])assa!!,'e is N. A W. (Canoe rock beacon same bearinj,') for 2^ miles, or, until Heaver point is in line with the easternmost Channel islet in Ganifes harliour, bearing,' N.W. h N., this mark will lead midway between TurubuU reef, an<l the Canoe rocks, which extend off. Portland, and Moresby islands, narrowing the channel at its northern entrance to little ov(m- one-third of a mile. The Sisters, ofl the eastcirn point of Portland island, are three rocky islets, about "if) feet hi^dl, have a ftiw stunted ccnlar trees on their summits, are joined by reefs, and will be immediately recognised either from the northward or southward. TurnbuU reef. — Eastward from the Sisters, at more than one-third of a mile, extends TurnbuU rei^f in a semicircular direction towards the north-west point of Portland island, and almost joining it ; 2 fathoms is the least water found on its outer edge, and it is marked by a bank of kelp, which, however (on account of the tide), is not always visible until close to it. Sir chart, No. 2,840. 112 HARO HTIIATT, WESTERN CHANNELS. [Chap. Tfl. Canoe rooks is a (lanircvmiH lodpro oxtcndinpr nearlj- half a mile W. \ N. from Roof point, tlio iiorth-wost point of Morosby inland ; tho outer rock of this loilj,'o covors a littlo aftor half flood, ami is not marked by kelj), though kolp grows botwoon tho point and tho rock. A stone beacon 25 feot high, snrmountod by a cross and coloured black, stands on tho Canoe rocks. A black can buoy is moored on the rock at the western extreme of the reef extending from Reef point, Moresby island. Between the buoy and the point there is a rock with 1^ feet over it. Directions. — With tho beacon on Canoe rocks visible, the passage is easy, as the above dangers may be passed as close as convenient, and there are II fathoms in mid-channel ; but if the beacon is not visible, which may sometimes happen, then it is desirable when coming from the southward to borrow on tho Moresby island shore, passing Seymour point, the western cliffy point of the island, distant 2 cables. PREVOST PASSAGE is between Moresby island and tht? group of smaller islands southward of it. To those passing up the main stream of Haro strait and bound for Swanson channel, the easiest aud most direct route is between Stuart and Moresby islands ; but circumstances of wind or tide may render it convenient to take Provost passage ; for instance, with light winds the ship may be set into the passage by the flood, or, if near to Moresby island, by the ebb tide from the upper part of Haro strait, which runs here, as it does in all other parts of the channel, from 2^ to 3 hours after low water by the shore, sets westward among the small islands, and down the ^liners and Sidney channels. Arach.ne reef. — The 'dangers to be avoided in Prevost passage are Arachne and Cooper reefs. Arachne reef lies nearly in the centre of the passage, in a direct line between Fairfax point (the south-east point of Moresby island) and Tom point (the east point of Gooch island) ; and 2] miles S.W. by W. ^ W. from Turn point of Stuart island. This reef covers at a quarter flood, and has a good deal of kelp on its north-west edge, which, however, is frequently run under by the tide. Cooper reef, lying half a mile N.W. by N. from Tom point (Gooeh island), is marked by kelp, and uncovers at half ebb ; there See chart, No, 2,840. > tiy TO V Chn\). TTT.] PREVOST PASSAGE,- SATRIJJTK CUANXEL. lU I I is ii piirtrtufje Olio mil'- w'nli' Ix'twccii it and Ararhnt' hm-I', (Ii.> channt'l heiiig about tlio same width l)OtW('on tLo latter ami Mon-sby inland, with dct'i) water. North part of Portland iHJand, in line willi somii side of Aroresby island, bearing' \V. i)y N. •,' X., leads northward ol" ('noper and Araehne reefs. Yellow islet, n small bare isli't S foot liipfh, lies I.\ miles S.W. by W. from Fairfax point, and should be passed on the north Hide to cdear the Hhoal of ',\ fatlion^H whieh extends nt-arly 2 cables westward from the isld. SATELLITE CHANNEL is formed by Admiral island on the north : and Moresby, I'oi-tland, and I'iers islands, and tin' northern shore of Saanich i)eninsula on tlie soiitii. It leads to Saanit'h inlet, Cowitehin hai'bour, and by Sansiim narrows to Stuart channel. It is a ^do(l, dei'|) pa^:siiJ,'(■ with but few danj,'er8, wliitdi art' not always visililc ; am on},' these arc Shute vvvi' and Patey rock. The i,'('uci'al breatlth of the channel is one mile, dee]), and the slreii^'th of tide frnm one to iJ knots. Shute reef is a led^e less than half a cable in extent, with two rocks, one of which is covered at S feet Hood, its vicinity bein^' niarketl by k( Ij). It lies two-thirds of a mile W.S.W., from Harry })oint, the nortii point of Piers island, and nearly 15 cables N. by K. I K., i'rom Arbutus, a small islet, with two or three of the red stemmed arbutus ^'rowinj^' on it, and lyiny half a mile westward from Piers island. Patey rock, at the westttrn eiul of Satellitt" channel, is a single rock, covered at (» l\'et rise, with kelp around it, and is in the wa\ of vessels working into Saanich iidet or Cowitehin harbour. It lies two-thirds of a niih- N.X.K. IVom Hatch jioiut, the westernmosi point of Saanich inlet ; nearly 2 miles N.W. by W. .', \V., from Coal point, a remarkable nob point, tlu^ south extremi ; " i)eep cove ; and 3;| miles S,W. by W. .;, W. from Arbutus islet. Harry })oint oi)en northward of Arbutus islet, bearing X.E. by E., leads 15 cables southward of Patey rock ; and the high round summit of Moresby island, well open northward of Arbutus islet, bearing E.N.E., leads ;54 cables northward of it. Srr cbart. No. Z^UK SO U94H H fr 114 HARO STRAIT, WKHTKRX CHANNKLS. [Ohap. Ill Cecil rock, with 2 fathoms on it, lies oiH'-thinl of a mih' K.S.E. from th(^ south point of RuhhoII ishiiid at the entranoo of Fulford harbour, iintl iiiuHt ])v avoided wluui working' up Satellite channel. Boatswain bank, on the western side of the i'hanu(d, ofl" the Vancouver nhore, between Cherry and Hatch ])iiii)ts, affords <,'ood anchoraf,'e in from I to '.> fathoms, Handy bottom ; the outer eil^'e of the bank in 10 fathoms is steep-to, it j-xtcnds three-quarters of a mile K. by N., from Cherry ])oint, and then trends S.S.E., over three- quarters of a mile; from l\ to 15 cables inside the 10 fathoms line, the water shoals rai)ldly from ;') to 3 fathoms, the latter depth being found 1 cables from the shore. SAANIOH INLET is a det'p indentaticm extendint,' in a nearly S.S.E, direction for I I n)ih>s, and carrying,' dee]) water to its head, which terminates in a narrow creek within 1 miles of Ksijuimalt harbour. A rocky patch, about half a cable in extent north-(M»st and south-west, witli a least depth of 8 feet on it, lies with tlie western White rock off Cole bay, bearini,' X. 57" K., distant :2 cables. TIh' inlet forms the south-east portion of Vancouver island into a peninsula of about 20 miles long in a N.N.W. and S.S.E. direction, and Aaryinj,' in breadth from 8 miles at its southern part, to i) at its northern. Off the eastern or peninsula side of the inlet there are some good anchorages, the centre being for the most part deep. Immediately southward from James i)oint (the north-Avestern point of the peninsulii), is Deep cove, but no convenient anchorag(!. NorrlS rock, aAvash at half tide, lies 2 cables S.W. by S. from James point, with 12 fathoms between it autl the point. When rounding this point, give it a berth of half a mile. Union bay, at 2 miles southward from James point affords good anchorage in 8 or fathoms, half a mile from the beach ; a shoal bank extends 2 to !? cables from the shore around the baj'. Tlnre is a stream of fresh water in the south-east corner of the bay. Cole bay, Ig miles southwanl from Union bay, and immediately under mount Newton is small, but capable of affording shelter to a few vessels of moderate size ; oif its north point are White rocks, two small bare islets. Anchor in the centre of the bay in 8 fathoms, with White rocks bearing W.S.W. These bays are somewhat open to S.W. winds, but a gale rarely blows from this quarter, nor from the proximity of the opposite shore, distant scarcely 3 miles, could much sea get up. *<- chart, No. 2,810. i Ohiip. iiT.l sAANrroFr rvrjyr.— cowrrfurv irAnnorn. lir. khoivl re is itely to a jcks, |oin8, )pen trom louUl Tod creek Ih 2 uuWh Honthwivrd from Colo bay. Sonanns iHland, a Hmall wooded inlet, l.')!) feet hif,'h, lies oft its entrance, foul },'rounil extenda nearly one cable off tlie north-west wide of the inland. A small islet, and a rock lyinj? one cable north from it, lies in the entrance to the south-east part of the creek. A short distance inside it narrows rapidly and winds to the southward and south-east for lliree-tjuarlers of a mil(>, with a breadth of less than one cable, carrying,' (1 fathoms nearly to its hea<l. There is aiu'hora<,'e in the outer i>art of the creek in I.') fathoms. Squally reach. — From Willis point, the western point of Tod cre«'k, the inlet known as S(pially reach trends soutii-west for 21 miles, the breadth of tin- arm liei'e beint? three-quarters of a mile, with no bottom at 1(K> fathoms. Finlayson arm, its eontinualion, trends S, by K. .', M. for ;> miles, and terminates Saanich inlet. IJeacon rock, which covers at thre '(piarters ilood, lies one cable, S.W. if S,, from Elbow point, Finlayson arm. A small ish't named Dinner, with dectp water ou either side, lies near the head of this arm, 1.^ c;d)les southward from which there la good anchorage in [) fathoms. At ',\ cables south from the islet, the arm terminates in a flat, which dries at low water. Immediately over the head of the inlet, on the eastern side, Leading peak rises to an elevation of l,:iiG feet. Mill creek bay is a fair anchorage, and the only one on the western side of Saanich inlet ; a bank of sanil and rock which has only from one to 15 fathoms water on it, extends 12 cables from the western shore, across the bay ; a large stream flows into the north- west corner of the bay. A rock, with only (5 to 1) feet water on it, lies almost in the centre of the bay, a short distance outside the i] fathoms line, nearly 4 cables S.S.W. | \V. from Ford point. OOWITCHIN HARBOUR i« - miles westward from cape Keppel, the" southern extreme of Admiral islantl ; Separation point (the western point of entrance to Sansum narrows), its northern enti'ance point, is somewhat remarkable, being the termination of a high, stony ridje. Cowitchin harbour extends westward from this point foi- 2 miles, and the general depth in it is 30 fathoms, which shoals suddenly as the fiat is approached, which dries off for more than half a mile from the head of the harbour. Str chart, Xo. 2,8-tO. SO 11948 H2 I 116 HARO STRAIT, WESTERN CHANNELS. [Chap. III. But for thf lur^'c tnict of j^oorl laiul contained in rowitchin valley, the i>()rt would scarcely be deaervinj^f of notice, and it is more of a bay than a harbour. In its north-west end is a c<misiderable river, tile Quamitclian, which Hows throu;j[h the fertile valley, and is navi- fjfable for hmkiII boats or canoes for sever.d iiiiles. There is a settlement here, o!T which is a lon^jf pier (on tiie south sith' of the liarbonr). Cominj,' from the south-eastward the entrance is easily ('istinguished by the i)ier and lumber yard, just insi(h> the point on the west side. Mail steamers call here twi(!e a week. Snug" creek. — The only convenient aiu'lioi'a,i,'e to he obtained is in Snug creek, on ihe north sidt^ of t'owitchin harbour, or off the outer village on the south side, 1] miles within the entrance : in the . hitter case a vessel must apjjroach the shori' within litth^ more than one cable, ami anchor cautiously, when 12 fathoms are obtained. Hnniir creek is a conviMiicnt anchora'.,'<' for smdl cral't or coasters and oni' or two vessels of modei-ate sizt* mi!j:ht obtain aiidiora.^e and shelter in it ; it extends in a noi-therly direction for nearly one mile, and is a (fuarter of a mile in l)r.'adth. Nearly in the miildle of tiie entrance is a rock which uncovers at low wati-r in the centre of tl)<' kelj) ; it is about 20 feet in extent, and has J?, fathoms around it. The westi-rn point of entrance can be passed close as it is bold, and has 10 fathoms within half a cable of it ; when a ((uarfer of a mile or le.ss, inside the point, anchor in the centre of the cri-ek in t) fathoms. A red spar buoy marks the shoal extentlinu; from tlie eastei-n shore. SANSUM NARROWS take a g^'iieral northerly direction ♦ between Vancouver and Admiral islands i'oi' () miles, when they lead into Stuart channtd ; the avera^'e breadth is about half a mile, but at their narrowest part, abreast liold blull', they are contracted to one- third of a mile. The high land on both sides renders the wind generally very unsteady ; from this cause, as well as from the some- what confined nature of the channel, and the depth of water whicH prevents anchoring, the Narrows i lunot be recommended except for steamships or coasting-vessels. There are but few dangers to be avoiib'd. and the strength of the tides has sehiom been found to exceed '^ knots, generally much less. Knteriug Sansum narrows fi-om the southward. Kelp reef, with 9 feet water on it, on the Admiral island shore must be avoiiled. It I I I .*&'« ohart, No, 2 6W. \ mile in sliotv. 'ctinn but iit (» OllO- whul Hoine- whic'- 'pt for to 1)0 unl to with eel. It rilHl). ^"-J SAN.SUM NARHOW.s.— STUART CHANNEL. ii: lie.s 2 ciihU'S S.S.W. troiu ;i sin ill islet (..'iosr t(» tin coast, aiul a ([uarter of a mill- S.W. fi-oiu KutiMue.' point ; it is niirki-d by a red buoy. Another rocky [)atc'h extends nearly one ••iible off shore fron.! the uastera side of th" Narrows : it lies one mile N.W, by W. \ \V. from Kntrance point. Burial islet, a smali spot used as an Indian buryiny-plaee, lies on the eastern side of ilu- Narrows, I J, miles above Sei)ar.uion point ; pass outside it as close as convenient to tlie kelp. Bold bluff, a smooth iieadland of bare rock, is steep-to ; the channel here is scarcely one-third of a mile across, llocky ^Tound marked by kelp extends one ciible otV Ivtdp point on the western side, almost opposite to Hold bhitf ; northward from these points the Narrows increase in breadth to nearly one mile. Burgroyne bay, the enti-ance to which is half a mile eastwanl from Uold l)lull', is a narrow aii<l rather deep indentation terminating,' in a sandy liea I ; there is no bottom in the bay under liO fathoms until within 2 cables of its hftad, when the water shoals suddinly frcmi JO to 1 fathoms. Anchorage may l)e had if necessary. MAPLE BAY. — From (Jrave ))oint ihe Narrows take a north- westerly dii'ection one mile to Ma|)[e bay. lioiildi'r, the southern entrance point, is remarkaide from a large boulder sttjne staniling at its low water extreme. Aliliough an inviting looking bay, the water is too deep for comfortable anchorage, being generally it) fathoms, and 16 fathoms within one cable of a smooth sandy beach at its western end.* Bird's-eye cove, which takes a southerly direction ft)r nearly one n;de from Boulder point, alfords fair anchorage at its entrance in about the centre of the cove, in lli fath(»ms, njud bottom, with the boidder bearing N.E. I N. ; the cove at this part is n a more than one-third of a mile across ; 2 cables soul ward from this anchoraLre, shoal water, 2 to ','» fathoms, I'Xtends Ii :ree-([uarters of a cable from each side of the cove, which is here oidy 'i| cables wide ; coasters may go ui) mid-channel into 4 or ') fathoms near the head. Tides. — The rise iit sjjrings in ISrii))le i)uy is 1:2 feet. STUART CHANNEL.— Sansum narrows extend U miles northward from Maple bay, when they lead into '^tuart channel, the * See Admiralty jilan of MapltJ bay on chart, No. 714 ; scale, m ■.- 3 inohci*. 118 HAHO STIIAIT, WI'WI'KRX CJHANNKLS. [Cllilp. 111. westeninioat ol' tlio ship p.iHsagcs which lit' on the eastern side of Vancouver island.* The western side of Stuart channel is formed by the shores of that island ; its eastern, by the coasts of Admiral, Kui)er, and Thetis islands ; it extends in a ^'eneral N.W. direction for nearly 20 miles, when it joins Dodd narrows below Nauaimo. The f,'eueral breadth of the channel is about 2 miles ; the depth varies in the southern i)art from (>() to 100 fathoms, in some parts more, in th<j northern portion from 20 to -iO fathoms ; the principal dangers are North and Escape reefs, Wliitt' nx-k, and Danger reef. On the western or Vancouver island shore there are some gootl harbours, viz., Osborn bay, Chemainus bay, Oyster harbour, and Kulleet bay ; on the eastern side there are also some anchorages. Telegraph and Freeily harbours on the western, and Clam bay on the eastern side of Thetis and Kuper islands. OSBORN BAY, the southernmost anchorage on the western side of Htuart channel, may be known l)y Shoal islands, a low wooded group, extending over \\ miles in a W. by N. | N. direction, and connected at low water by reefs and mud banks; the south- easternmost of these islands which helps to form the northern side of Osborn bay lies a little over 2 miles N.W. by W. from the north- west entrance point of Sansum narrows. The bay ad'ords good anchorage, sheltered from the prevailing winds, from the westwaril and S.E.t Anchorag'e. — The best anchorage is in 10 fathoms, mud bottom, at half a mile from the southern head of the bay with the south- easternmost Shoal island in line with Southey point, bearing N .\ W. ; and the southern trend of the coast E. by S. .^ S. The COAST trends W.N.W. for 4 miles from Osborn bay to Chemainus bay, and is faced by the Shoal islands, and adjacent reefs and mud flats, for nearly the whole distance ; and vessels should n;;t approach this shore within lialf a mile ; a rock awasli at high water lies nearly half a mile N.N.W from the south-easternmost Shoal island. Thi* northern point of the North Shoal island has a renuirk- able tlat sandy spit, on which is built an liulian village ; there are no passages between the small islands northward of this, and the bank dries ofl: 2 cables at low Avater. • ^'<' Admiralty chart : — .Strait of 0< tn^na. ahuet \,'So. '>T,t ; scale, m = ()"> inches. •}• Hir Admiralty plau of Osborn bay ou chart, No. 714 ; scale, m = iJ inches. Chap. III.] OSBORN BAY.— OYSTER HARBOUR. 119 to |n;<t iittr lioal Irk- no link Ihea. A blii -k spar buoy imirkH the end of the ledge extending north- westward from the rock, awa.sh at high water, lying ol! Shoal islandn. CHEMAINUS BAY will l»e known by a rather remarkable sharii i)oint (Bare [)<)int) hare at its extreme, which forms its eastern entr.uico. The bay extends in a southerly direction fur two-tliirds of a mile, and is one-third of a mile in breadtli, sheltered from all except N.W. winds. There i.s a timber yard and saw-mill situated on the west side of tli(> baj', from which spars may be ol)tained for shipping ; also stores, post office, and railway station. Bare Point lig-ht is a Ji.i-rd whitr light, (devated 30 feet above high water, and visil)ie in clear weathei- from a di.stance of 11 miles. The light is shown from the roof of the keeper's dwelling, the whole 30 feet high, and painted white. Bird reef, a rocky ledge uncovering at half tide, extends <me cable from tlie shore, north-westward from the western point of entrance, and lies half a mile W. l>y S. from liare point. Anchorage. — Thi-re is convenient anchorage for small vessels off the siiw-mill, or within a (juarter of a mile of tlu' head of the bay in 8 fathoms ; within this distance the water shoals suddenly from .') to 2 fathoms. OYSTER HARBOUR is i miles W.X.W. from Chemainus bay ; the harbour extends in the same ilirection for \ miles, is nearly one mile wide at the entrance, narrowing gradually within. Entering from the northward, Cojlin isltt should be given a berth of 2 cables ; at low water the Oyster beils dry 2 ( ables off the south shore.* A reef which covers at half tlood extends one cable southward from the twin islands ; half a mile above this the harbour narrows t<» a (pxarter of a mile in width ; small vessels may go as far up as the west end of Long island, where 3 fathoms will be found at low water. A good anchorage for a large vessel is one mile inside the entraiice in It fathoms, miul lM*tioin, with the south-east end of Loiiir isiand bearing x ,\V'. by W., and east extreme t)f Twin islamls bearing North ; good auchonige may also be had in l» fathoms, mud bottom, nearly three-([uarters of a mile further up the harbour. Tides. — It is high water at full and change in Oyster harbour at 6h. Ora. p.m. ; springs rise 11) feet. * See Admiralty plau of Oyster harlx^ur on chart, No. 714 ; scale, m = 3 incheu. 120 IfAKO STRAIT, WKSTKIIN CHANNKLS. [Cliiip. III. ii KULLEET BAY it< 'il luihs iiorthwunl from tlit- tiitraiK-e of Oyster harbour, and the Hame distaucu W. by S. from Rt'ef point, the north-went point of Thetis iahind. Anohonige may be had in S fathoms at lialf a mile from its head' on a bank which projects from tlie southern shore, witli Deer point, at the northern entrance of the bay bearinij N.K., and the soutliern trend of the coast bearing,' S.K. by K. ; but it is open and cannot be recommended, unh-ss in fine weather, or witii off-shore winils. Yellow point, bare and grassy at its extreme, is tlie north point of Kulleet l)ay ; a rock, nearly awash at low water sprinj,'s, with a depth of 10 fathoms half a cal)le eastward of it, lii's about 2 cal)les eastward of Yellow point, in a position with White rock centre bearinfj; E. by N. .^ N., distant lii,^,, cables. The COAST, from Yellow point to Round island, at the scuthern entrance of Uodd narrows, irenils N.W. \ W. for 5 miles. When working for the narrows, White rock and Danger reef must l)e avoided. At l.^ miles southward from Hound island is l!oat h-irboui', at the entrance of which a vessi-l may drop an aiichoi- in H to 1(1 fathoms if waiting for the tide, thougii there is ei^ually good anchorage nearer to the narrows. North reef is a sandstone leilge I'xtending in a north-westerly and south-easterly direction, as all the reefs in this channel do. It lies half a mile S. b\ K. .\ K. from the sonth-eai-t i)oint of Tent island. It is just awash at high water, and therefore easily avoided ; its shoal part extends for one-third of a mile, in a W.N.W. directicm, steep on its north and s(tuth sides. TENT ISLAND, narrow and two-thirds of a mile long, lies olf the south extreme of Kuper island. One cable olf its south-east end are two remarkable worn sandstone rocks 8 or 10 feet above watei', with a passage one-third of a mile wide between them and North reef. At nearly 2 cables N.E. I E. from the south-east end of Tent island is a rock which uncovers 2 feet, and has shoal watei", 2 to ;5 fatlioms exteiivHiig 2 cables around it. When passing eastward of Tent ishi.id, its eastern shore should )e giviii a berth of half a mile, as so ne ledges extend off it. There isnoshii' i)assage between Tent and Kuper islands, there being a depth of only one fathom at low water. .Sty' chart, No. 679, rhap. FH.] KULLKKT MAY. — I)A\(;KU IlKKF 121 ester ly o. It slaud. shoal tet'p on it'H oil ith-cast above '111 and .f Tent wati'i", stwai'd ludf u ■tween lom at Escape reef, ~ ipilcs N.W. byW. from Xoitli I'l'i't', is adanpvroiis l»ak'h, lU'arly ont'-tliirl of a mdc in extent, in a W.N.W. and K.S. !•;. direction, wliich cover.-i at a ([narter ilood, and has no kciji to inarlc its position. It lies nearly half a inile from the west siiorc of Ivuprr island, ]\ nulos, W. { S. from .b^slin'^- (its south) point, and a littlr more than half a mile South from Uitri^dit elifl", Kuper island ; there is a deep channel one-third of a mile wide between it and Kuper island. Yellow point just open westward of Scott island, oil' Preedy hai'bour, bearinjj; N.W. [ W. leads 15 cables westward of the rci-f. Sandstone rocks oil' the south-east point of Tent island kept open of that point also lead westward of it. Alarm rook is scarcely in the track of vessels workiiii,' up Stuart channel. It lies one cable S. by W. from the south-east point of Hudson island, approach to Telej^raph harbour. It just covers at high water, and is connected by a letlge with Hudson island. False reef lies ?>}, cables W. by N. I X. from Si-ott island, and a long half mile S.W. }, S., from Crescent point, the north-west point of Preedy harbour ; it is awash at low water. White rock, about ;><> yards long, and 1') feet altove high waii'i-, lies one mile N.N.W, fi-om Reel point, the north-west exli-eme of Thetis island ; a bank having from 2 to .') I'athoms on it exteiuls 2 cables north-westward from the rock. This rock has a whitish appearance, and is i-eadily distinguished from a vessel's deck at a distanc*; of 2 or ii miles. It HJiould not be passed within 2 cables distant, and there is a good passage between it and Thetis island, giving Reef point a l)ertii of half a mile to avoid a rocky ledge extending nearly that distance norili westward from it. Ragged ishmd, a low rocky islet, with a few trees on it, lies one-third of a mile W.N.W., from Pilkey point, the nori^h end of Thetis island. Danger reef, lying one mile N.W. h N. from White rock, and I5 miles, N.E. by N. from Yellow point, covers a space of half a mile almost in the ct ntre of the channel. A small portion of it is generally awash at high water, at which time it is diilicult to make ont nntil within a short distance of it. See chart, No. 67t». r ' ■«■ 1 ,' 122 HARO STRAIT, WESTERN CHANNELS. [CllJip. III. Directions. — When paHsing thnmyh Stuart chamiol, there i« a clear passage one mile in breadth between Danger reef and the Vancouver island shore, and going either up or down the channel. White rock is kept in line with the north-east extreme of Thetis island, bearing K.S.E., which leads '^ cables westward of the veef. Bound southward through Stuart channel from Dodd narrrows, pass at fron) one to 2 cables eastward of Round island, and steer for tlie westernmost ragged tree suuimit of Thetis island, S.E. [ ]']., this course leads in mid-channel, and over half a mile wcstwii.ril from Danger reef, and White rock ; when the latter bears East, alter course to S.S.E. for Stuart channel. There is a clear passage tlu'ee-((uarlers of a mile wide between White rock and Danger reef, and lialf a mile between the reef and Tree island, with a dejith of over .'50 fathoms. As White rock and Tree island are always visible, and Danger reef is generally above water, there can be no difficulty in either of these i)assage8 to vessels coming np Trincomali channel. Vesuvius bay, on the western side of Admiral island, im- mediately opposite Osborn bay, has deep water, but shoals suddenly at its head ; if necessary, anchor in 9 fathoms at l.\ cables from the shore ; but it is not recommended. There is also anchoi-age for coasters ineitle Idol islet in Houston jiassage. This islet lies 1| miles K. by N. from the south end of Tent island, and is 2i cables from Admiral island; with the islet bearing W. by N., and midway between it and the shore, there is anchorage in (') fathoms. Grappler reef, on the eastern siile of Houston passage, is one cable in extent and uncovers at vt-iy low water. It lies a quarter of a mile off" the north-west end of Admiral island, and there are 5 fathoms between it and the shore of the island. Passing through Houston passage, the eastern jjoint of Sansum narrows kept well open of the points of Admiral island to the northward of it, the latter bearing S.E. ^ S., leads 2 cables westward t)f the reef, and when the southern point of Secretary islantl is open of Southey point bearing N.E. by N., it is cleared to the northward. A spar buoy, in 7 fathoms, lies on the south-west extreme of the reef. See chart, N v. 57" >. III. Chup. HI.] VKSUVIUS MAY.— .\1>MIRAL ISLAM). 1 )'l itJ a the UllA'l, 'hetis si'. rows, yr I'oi' ., this from , alter 'tween sef and jk and above vessels ad, im- uldenly •om the ouston end of 10 islet there is is one arter oi' ere are hrough [pt well it, the ^ef, and k- point TB''.iEQRAPH HARBOUR, on tlie werttsitleoi" Kuper island, is a snug anchorage, and its entrance is between Hudson ishmd aiitl Active point, which are half a mile apart. Entering from tlie south- ward, Escape reef (page 121) must he avoided. If passing inside tiie reef, the shore of the island should l)e kept aboard within a quarter of a mile ; if outsidi' or westward of it, then keej) Y*'Uo\v point (north point of Kulleet bay) just open westward of Scott island, off Preedy harbour, bearing N.W. j W., until Upriglit clitl" of Kuper island bears N.K., when a vesst'l will be northwiird of it, and may steer for the entrance of the harhour. '' Anchorag^e. — Tliere is good anclKU'age in S fathoms, with the north-west end of Hudson island bearing W.S.W., and Active point S.E. ^ S.; or 2 cables further in, iu S fathoms, Al»ovc this, the harbour contracts to a narrow creek extending one mile N.W., where coasters may fiml anchorage in 2 to ii fathoms ; the continuation of this creek easterly separates Kuper from Thetis island, which at low water are connected. The wharf on the eastern shore has a depth of n foet alongside the end. Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in Telegraph harbour at tJh. Om,; springs rise 10 feet. Preedy harbour is separated from that just described by a group of small islands and reefs ; its entrance is northward of them between Scott island and Ci'escent point of Thetif island, ami is one-thiril of a mile wide. When entering, the The' is island shore should be kept well aboard to avoid False reef. Shoal water extends for H cables oft" the northern sides of Scott and Dayaum islands. Anchorage will be found in 7 fathoms, with Crescent point bearing W.N.W., distant nearly half a mile, and east point of Dayman islantl bearing S, by W. SWANSON CHANNEL leads from Ilaro strait north-west- ward » etween Admiral island on the west and I'ender ishunl on the east ; passing eastward of l*r»'Vost island it enters Active pass between Galiano and Mayne islands, and thence into (Jeoi-gia strait ; northward of Active pass it coiniects with Trincomali channel. leme of ADMIRAL ISLAND, separating Stuart from Trincomali and Swanaon channels, is of consitlerable extent, being nearly 15 miles in length N.W, and S.E., and varying in breadth from 2 miles at its * Sev Admiralty plau of Telegraph harbour on chart, No, 7U ; scale, m = 3 inches. i" ' i{ i! I: !f It' I ! V2\ HAHO STRAIT, WKSTERN CHANNELS. [Clliip. III. iKtrdieni eml t<» (> at its Hontlieni. It has two yodd jttirts, Fiilionl harbour ou its south-east, and Gaii^'cs liarlxjiir on its castcni sidf. The soutliorn i)ortion of the island is a jH-ninsula formed Ity (lie indentations of Fiilford iiarl)oin' and liur^'oyne bay (a valh'y separating,' (he heads of tiiese poi'ts), composeil of a lofly ridf,'e of mountains ov(>r '2,000 feet in lu'ii^bt, rising' abruptly frou) all sides; the summit, mount Bruce, bein^' '1,^V2[) fet-t hif,'h. Immediately northward of the vaUey, and over ihiryoyiie bay on its western side, mount liaynt'S rises to an elevation of 1, '.•."»;) feel, and is very I'cmai'kable, its southern face beiufj; a i)er])endicular l)rec-ipiei' visible a lon^' distaivce fi'om the southward or eastward. The Otter ranji^e of somewhat less elevation rii^es northward of mount Baynes, from whence tli(! island sIo])es away in a wedii'e shape, its northern termination, Southey itoint, being a sharpi' extreme. The island is for the most part thickly wooded, but then' is a con- si(U'rable extent of partially clear land both in the valley at the head of Fulford harbour and at the northern end of the Isliind, which has become peopled l)y settlers under the name of 8alt Sjiring district, from the fact of several salt springs having bi-en discovered. FULFORD HARBOUR penetrates the south-east side of Admiral island in a W.N.W. direction for '2h miles. At its entrance is Hussell islanil, between which and Isabella point, the western point of the harbour, is the best passage in. Immediately over the north side of the harbour is HeginaM hill, a stony elevation l)etAveen 700 and SOO feet high. Cecil rock with 2 fathoms water on it lies one-third of a mile S.i'L by Vj. 'l E. from the south-west point of Hussell island. The southern entrance is two-thirds of a mile wide with a depth of 20 fathoms until abreast North rock ; here the harb(»ur narrows, and has a general breadth almost to its head of a little less than half a mile ; the tl^pths decreasing to 1',) and 10 fathoms, and at )\]f cables from the heail to .') fathoms, when the water shoals rai)iilly on the edge of the bank which exti^nds about 8 cables from the shore at the head of the harbour. North rock is a small rocky islet lying close oil" the north point of the harbour ; a rock, which covers at a (ptarter flood, lies 2 cables West from it, and more than V, cables from the shore, so that strangers entering should keep to the southward of mid-channel until past it. Si'e chart, No. 2,840. IP. III. ullunl )y tiK' valli'V llf,'l! ol' sidert ; l)ay on :} feel, (liculiir ■^twiinl. uionut ape, its ■. The a cou- lie head lich lias district, side of 'Utraiiet- western over the ll)etween a mile with a harbour little less i, and al rapidly Ihe shore Chap. III.] piTLFonn H.vRRorn.— oanoes HARBOun. 12,-> so that l-chauuel The northern passagre into the harlwur between llnssell island and Eleanor point, thou^i,'h in places not more than a (juartei-of a mile wide, is a safe channel of from 14 to 18 fathoms water. Louisa rock, with one railinm on it, is the only known dan^'cr ; it lies •-* cablcri from tlir norlhei-n or .Vdmiral island sliorc, with the west end of Russell island hcai-iuLr S.K. [, S., distant 1 cables, and North roek W.S.W. the same ilistance ; wiili a leadinL,' wind the Uussell island shore shouhl lie kept rather aboard. Anchoragre. — There is j,'ooil anchora^'e in 10 fath(»ms in the centre of the liarbf)m' with l{e,<j:inald iiill beai'iii',' K.X.I'j.: at the head of Mie liarlxtm- is a considerablr IVfsli-wati'i- stream, from which shoal water extends for 'A (•al)les. GANGES HARBOUR is a safe and conmiodious port for vessels of any description or si/e, and has two (uitranecs. Its southern entiMnce, in Swanson ciiannel, lies between Admiral and Pv.v:c,t islands; I lie northeni entrance is by ("mttaiii passa<,'e. When enttii'i.;' IVoin the southward, Ciiannei islets may l»e i)assed on either siile, but by far llie wi<le,st i)assa.','o is to the northward of them ; they are two small wooded islets, 1 J, miles within Heavt-r })oint, and 2 cables fi-om the shore of Admiral island. The fair channel into the harb(nir, between Channel and Aeland islands, is nearly half a mile wide, the depth being 150 fathoms ; having passed these islands the harl)our is nearly 1^ miles wide, and the general depth for 2 miles, is from :?<> to ]',) fatlioms. There are 1\'W (hmgers in tlie harbour, and they are easily avoided. A rocky patch with one fathom on it lies 2'\ cables W. \ N. from the west point of the westernmost Aeland islanil, and the same distance offshore. There is another one-fathom patch which is more in the tj'ack of vessels; it lies nearly ri miles W. by X. .', N. from the southernmost Channel islet. Liddell point, the south-east ('Xtrenie of I'revost ishind, and the northern entrance point of tin' harbour, has a reel" wliich is covered at half flood (extending 2 cables eastward from it. The Aeland islands, two in number, lie to the westward of Liddell point along the shore of I'revost island, between which and them there is no shi]) channel. S(T chart, Xo. 2,«40. liil '!i I2rt HARO STRATT, WESTERN CHANNELS. [Chlip. III. Ohain Islands are a prronp of 6 or 7 low narrow islets connected by reefs, extendiuK from the lieml of the hiirbour in an E.S.E. direction for U miles. Southward of these islands the ^Toimd is clear ; but northward of them are scattered reefs, and it is not recommended to anchor on that side above the outermost island, Anchorag'e. — Anchor us soon as a de]»th of 10 or 12 fiithoms is found ; a ^'ood bertli is in 11 fathoms with Peile i)oint, and tlie two entrance points of Long harbour nearly in lino bearing N.K. by N., and the easternmost Chain island W.N.W. If desirable, anchorage may l>e had in (> fathoms mud, midway between the ('hain islands and the souih shore, the easternmost island bearing E.N.K., or in a still snv.gj^^r berth one mile above, off the sandy spit (»n Admiral island, in 1 or 5 fathoms. This latter berth is recommeiiiU'd for vessi'ls of moderate size intending to make any stay. CAPTAIN PASSAGE also leads into Ganges harbour, north- ward of Prevost island. It is a clear deep passage, one-third of a mile wide, with (le])ths of from IM> to 4(» fathoms ; and those from the northward intentling to enter the harbour should always use it. There is only one known danger, which is well inside Ganges harbour, and which is almost ecjually in the track of vessels working up by the soiithei'u i)assage ; it is a small patch of 2 fathoms lying 3i cables S.W. by W. from the western entrance jioint of Long harbour. Entering by Captain passage, I'eile point should not be shut in by the entrance points of Long harbour until the opening between Prevost and Acland islands is shut in, when this reef will be well cleared. When working up the southern channel, do not stand so far eastward when in the neighbourhood of this patch, as to open the passage between Acland and Prevost islands. LONG HARBOUR may l)e almost considered as part of Ganges harbour. It is a long, narrow creek, its general breadth being 2 to 1) cables, and it lic^s to the eastward of (ianges harbour and runs parallel to it for 21, miles. Its entrance is between two sloping, rocky points, similar to each other, on the west side of Captain passage. At a (juarter of a mile inside the entrance is a high, bare islet, which must be passed on its south side ; and at one mile inside the entrance there is also another and somewhat similai- island, which may be passed on either side. Outside these islets the depth is from 14 to 16 fathoms : above them, 4 and 5 fathoms. At the head of the Si-c chart. No. 2,S40. Ohivp. iri.l flAPTATN PAWSAOK.— rnRVnST ISIiANn. l-.>7 creek in a Hunj? place for a h\\\\) to repair, Ac, but as a harbour, it is only adapted to steam-veBHi'lH or coaHters, and, with the ^ood and easy anchorai,'o of Gan^'eH liarbour ho elone, there would appear to be no reason to reeonimend thin eontractcMl and inconv»'nient one. PREVOST ISLAND, 1\ imr in the centre of Swanson eliann(d. is nioderatt'ly high, thickly woddcd, and of an irrejjrnlar shape. It is 'A miles lonj,', in a N.W. and S.E. direction, 1] niih'S in breadtli, and on its southern and western sides it is indented by several bays and creeks; its northern side is almost a straii;ht clilVy shore. LIGHT.— Portlock point light is a .//.m/ ir/n'/r li^rht. witii a /w/ sector showing over Knterprise reel', ch'vated 7"i feci above hif,'h water, and visilih" from a distance nr 10 miles in elear weatlier. Tlie li,:,'hth(iiist'. 111 I'eet hi,i,'h, is a s(piai'e, pyramidal, wonden lower, witii I'oom attached, painted wiiite, ianti'i-n reil. Fog signal. — From a small wooden tower 1^ cables S.K. of the lighthouse a Ik'II is struck once evei-y lifleen seconds. Ellen bay, on» the south-east side of I'revost island, between Liddell and Red islet points, is three-quarters of a mile deep, by one- third in breadth, uarrowinj^ to 2 cables, on((-third of a mih* from its head, and affords fair anchoraire with all but south-easterly winds in 10 fathoms, mud bottom. The head of this bay is a grassy, swampy flat, only one cable wide, separating the bay from the creeks (»n the western shore. There are two bays luu-thward of p]llcn bay, but too small to afford any shelter. Annette and Glenthorne creeks, on the western or (langes harbour side, are curious, narrow imlentations extending into the island for one mile in an K. l)y S. direction, and only separated from each other by a narrow stony ridge. In Glenthorne, the western one, there are I] fathoms water, the other has 1.', fathoms : they are snug places for small craft, or to repair a vesst'l. James bay, on the north-west side of the island, and on east side of Captain passage, affords fair, but very confined anchorage in 10 fathoms for a vessel of moderate size, sheltered from s(»utherly winds, but she must get well in, as then' are 18 to 20 fathoms water in the outer part of the bay. Si-e chart. Xo. 2,840. 12S HAIIO STRAIT, WKSTKRN CHANNKLS. [Chil)). TIT. Hawkins island, a Htnall, ii»fky islot with u t'fw hiiHlu'rt oil it, licH flosc (ill' ii rt'inarkulilt' wliiif Hlioll-beauh, on die iKirth-eaHt Huiv of iVcvoHt irtlaiul. Charles rocks.— Ffom •,» tn ;{.'. caltlcrt W. .', N. rn.in tlM- noiih- wt'Htccn itoiiii of HawkiiiH inlaml arc (he ('liarlcn rocks, tliri-c smooth- loppcd rocks, not marked liy kelp, uihI imcovci in;: towanls low- water. ACTIVE PASS.— From Discovry island at llir southern entrance of Uaro strait, to the sanil heads of Kraser river. Iiy tin' Active ])ass, is jnst !<• miles, and the liiic is almost astrai^dit one, \\y ad(»ptin^' this ronte, imt only the most dan^'crons iind inconvenient part of the llaro strait is avoided, viz.. its norlhern entrance altreast the Kast point of Saturna island and Patos island (wliei'c tint tid«'s are stron;,' and apt to set a vessel down Rosa.'io strait, or over on the eastern shore), htit a distance of ncariv 10 miles is saved. I'Voni I'orllnck poini, the soiiih-easlern iduir of I'ri'vosl island, the entrance ol Active [ia>> iiears N. I>y W. .', \V. distant lij miles, 'i'he southern entrance \u>'\\\{ of the ])ass, Helen p<iint, is low, l)are, and of a \ellowish colour ; ovi'r its northern side rise th»hi^'h, stony hills, on the southern side of (Jaliano island : ihe enlranco itself does not liecoiiie very appaicnt until it is ai)proached within one mile. Aclive j)a8s takes an K.X.K. diroctioji for 1 .J, miles, smd then turns Xorth for the satne distance, faii'ly into Gc!or.y:ia strait. Th j average Iii'cadth of the (dianni'l is about one-third of a mile, and its ^'oneral depth ai)(»ut 20 fathoms : a small rock lies oil' Laura point, on which there is said to be a de])th of oidy a few feet, and which should, therefore, not be closely ai)proached : and at a i|uarter of a mile within the southern «'nti;!nce, and vci'y close oil' the northern shore, lies a rock whic h uncoxcrs iit half tide. The ed^'c of the r< ef oil' (iossip island, ai the northern entrance to the i)ass, is nuirki'd by a i)lack cjin buoy. Caution. — 'I lie ^n'l'at strt-n^th of Ihe lidcs, to,!,'ether with the absence of steady winds, renders it unlit for sailin^'-vessels, unless, indeed, small coasters : for steam- xcsstds of moderate size c(nu- manding a speed of not less than S knots it is in tiseftd pass ; but it is advisal)h' for large ships and those dee])ly laden to pass tlirouf?h at, or near slack water. Sti'on^' contrary under currents and cross currents have been experienced. S-r chart. No, :?,*^40. i ;\ ii ll]». III. oil it, irtl ni'li' liullll- ;m«»oth- •ds low (HUlu'lMl liy thi' nr. r.y ivcuii'iit ■ ;iliri'ast lie tiilfS !• (Ill lli»' luiul, thf ■e, iiiui <>r Duy hillH, (Iocs not 0, leu turns iivcriij;o ^reni'tal )n which shonhl, a mih' I'll short', tranci' t" with the s. uiiU'Ss, i/A> fOlU- s ; but it throufjh Ind cross Chap, in.] ACTIVE PASS, DIRECTIONS. 129 LIGHT. — From a square, white, wooden, li>?ht tower, sltuatod on Oforyinu point, is exhibited jit an eh'vation of 55 feet above h\n\\ water, a /i.rrd irhi/r li^rht, visibhi between tlie beiirings N. !V.) ' K., tlirou^'Ii south, and S. H4° W., and shouhl be seen in cU'ar weather 12 niih'S. Fog signal. — A steam horn piveg a blast of cif/ht scronfh duration Position.— The liKhthonse is situated in latitude 48" .')2' 40" N., lon^'itude 12;^ 17' 50" W. Otter bay. — if overtaken by niijht, or waiting,' for tide, Otter bay, on the west side of Pender island, is a j,'ood 8to))iiin{^-i)Iaee ; it is one mile North from Mouatt point ; fairanehorage is to be had in the centre of the bay, in 8 fathoms. Miners bay, on the south side of Active jiass, where it takes the sharp turn to the northward, afJ'ords anchora^'e, if neeessiiry ; but a vessel must fjo close in to j^et 12 fatlionis, and tlutn is barely out of the whirl of the tide. Directions. — After eaterinj,' Swanson channel between Admiral and I'eiider islands steer to pass to the eastward of Prevost island, and kee)) Pelorus point (the eastern extreme of Moresby island) ojien of Mouatt point (the western extreme of Pender island) bearing? S.K, 'j S., which will lead over one-third of a mile westward of Enterprise reef, and when Helen point bears N. by E., the reef will be cleared, and the entrance oi the pa>-s may be steered for. If coming out of Navy channel, between Pender and Mayne islands, keep over for Prevost island until Pelorus point is open of Mouatt point ; these two points in line, or just touching;, lead verj' close on Enterprise reef. When passing through Active pass to the westward against the flood, keep rather on the southern shore of the pass, as the stream sets over towards a rock, which uncovers at half tide, and lies very close to the northern shore, about a quarter of a mile within the southern entrance. When entering or passing out of the northern entrance of Active pass, the point of Gossip island, on th*^ west, and also (Heorgina point (north extrem> of Mayne island) on the east, should be given a good Sfi' chart, No. 2,840. SO 11948 Il 130 HARO STRAIT, WESTERN CHANNELS. [Chii]). IIT. bertli ; indeed, the beat dirt'cliona Mhich can ije given are to pass through in niitl-chaiinel. Tides and tidal streams. — The li xul stream in Active pans sets from wcHt to ejist, or Ironi the S\\an>ou channel into Georgia strait ; and the ehb, in the contrary direction. The ebb stream is locally rejiorled to c(mimence shortly after high water and to i-iin until aliout tliice-(|uarli'rs of an hour afti-r the tide has begun to rise on the shore. The velocity during si)rings is sometimes? knots; at ordinary tides, from .'? to ."). In the northern entrance there is sometimes a heavy tide ripple, caused by a patch of 7 fathoms, and l>y the meeting of the tide through the )iassuith that in the strait ; as before nu'iitioned, it l8 recommended to pass through in mid-chann«'l ; no favourable eddy, or less strength of tide, Avill ))e found on either side, imless insid«' the keli> which lines the shores. It is high water, full a'MJ change, at th. Cm. TRINCOMALI CHANNEL— l.iki- all the Inner chanu.ds already described, this one must be classed as essentially a channel for .steam-vt ssels or coasiers; it can only be used with advantage by those bound to llie eastern jxirls of N'aucouver island southwaril «)f Nanaimo, or by such as clioosr to • iiier Nanainio itself by llie contracted puss, l)>idd narrows. The eastern .-iide of the ehannel is f< lined by the long nairow islands (ialiano ami Valdis. and tln> westc rn by Admiral, Kiiper, and Thetis islands, and part of the eastern shore of Vancouver i'ditn<l. Montague lia"bour on the wcsiern side of (ialiano island is a good 8toi)ping place, also Clam bay on the east side of Thetis islaiui. Trincomali channel contracts when abr»ast Narrow ishsnd to less than (uie mile in width, but t be shores are bold on boih sides. On the shore of (ialiano islnid, one mile N.K. from the south-east point of Narn)w island, is Hetii-at cove, offering shelter for boats or anchi)rage for coasters ; an islaml li(>s in the centre of it. Portier and Gabriola passes, leading into Georgia strait, are botJi intricate and dangerous, unless to those perfectly actpuiinted with them, and the titb-s are so strong, and varying in their set, that they cannot be said to be applicable to the general purposes of navigation, and few navigators would be jnslilie<l in using them unless in cases of emergency. (,SVr jjages IH.'V liWi). Sir ohnrt. No. r.7Jt. to h'(<s >. On ]i()int ats or lit, aro iuiutt'd 'ir set, (»St*H ol" tliHin I Chap, rir.] TRINCOMALI CHANNEL. 131 .Montague harbour is between tlie south-east side of Galiano iwlaiid an<l I'arker ifshuul, and itH entrance, hetween Phillimore point and Julia island, is 1] n\il»s W.N.W. from the west entrance of Active pass. Tlie entrance is ahout one calili' wide, but has deep water. Tliis liaibour, thouirli small, is a sunj,' and secure anchorajjre, wiili a 1,'eiu ral dt])tli of (i fatlioins, ^<iod lioldin;,' {ground ; several Indian lo(l<,'es ai'c Ituill on llic sIioits ol tli( l)ay. 'I'lien- is a narrow passairc noi'tli-westwani troni this liarboiir iiiio the Trinconiaii channel, the least (U'jttii in which is !» fathoms. Sevt'iiil s^nall islands cxtt-nd ^V.N.^V. from I'arker island, namely, Sphinx, Charles. Wise, a)id Twin islands, the latter are tw<t ratlier remarkal)le rocky islets about 'M) feet hijrh : beiwccu this f^roup and (Jaliano island is a passaj^'o half a mile widt' with },'ood anchoni^'e in 10 fathoms. A rock which uncovi-rs at low watei' sprinsrs is reported to lie 2 cables W. by X. \ N., from Twin islands. Atkins reef lies on the western side of Trincomali channel, one-third t>\' a mile from the ^hore of Admiral island, and in the track of the vessels workinir up or down. It is one cable in extent, and covers at 1 feet rise of tide, its neij^dibourhood bcinj,' marked by kelp, which, however, is rarely seen when there is any rijtple on the water Tin; reef lies \\ miles S. .', K. frt)m Twin islands; and one mile E. by S. from the south-east end of the peninsula which forms Walker hook. There is a passaife of 111 fatlutms between the reef auvl Admiral island, and it may l)e passed one cable distant cm the ouiside. Walker hook is formed by a peninsula I miles W. by N. ^ N. from Captain passaf,'e. On its south-east side \h fair anchoraj^e for small vessels in (I fathoms, but a shoal piiteh marked by kelj) one-third of a mile in extent, lies from '2 cables to over half a mile E.N.K. from the south-east point of the i)eninsida ; small vessels may pass between this shoal and the point in .') fathoms, or ])etween it and Atkins reef, which is better, and anchor in (i fathoms, 2 cablen southward from tlu- neck of the peninsida. There is also anchorajife in 1(1 fathoms northward of the i)eninsula, but do not y;o within the north point of the hook as it dries a lon^,' way out. Governor rock, a dan^fenms rocky patch lyim,' almost in the c(Mitre of Trinconiaii channel, has \ fe«'t on it, is about half a cable Sri- chart, No. 57'J. SO 11948 12 132 HARO STRAIT, WESTERN CHANNELS. [Cbll). HI. f in extent, and thoufjh kelp grows on it, yet it i?, very difficult to make out until (luite close to. It lies 1| miles W. ^ S. from Twin islands, and 1:[ miles S.S.W. from Quadra hill. This hill cannot he mistaken ; it rises from the centre of Galiano island T'jO fe<'t, and a remarkahle white hasaltic clifT will he seen on the cr'^«* immediately southward of it. A conical l)lack Luoy is moored on tu ■ eastern side of this rock. Walker rock lies two-thirds of a mile North from Governor rock, and covers at 4 feet rise. It lies ISj miles W. by N. .\ N. from Twin islands, and 1 J, miles S.W. l»y S. from Quadra hill. A beacon of stone, (S feet high, surmounted by a staff IH feet high, with cross pieces at right angles, i)ainted black on east and west sides and white on north and south, stands on Walker rock. Directions. — Take the passage southward of Governor rock, or that between it and Walker rock, or northward of the latter. If taking the southern passage, after ch'aring Atkins reef, and the shoal oH' Walker h(»ok ; the coast of Admiral island should be kept aboard within half a niile, until Quadra hill bi'ars N.K., when steer X.N.W. over towards (Jaliano island, giving the south-east end of Narrow island a berth of at least half a mile, as a ret'f extends off it. The nuu'ks for a mid-channel ccturse are, the north-east point of Thetis island kept well open of the eastern side of Narrow islanil, the latter bearing W. by N, i N. ; steer up with these marks on until Quadra hill bears N.K., taking care not to open the north-east point of Thetis islaml so mucli of Narrow island as to bring the fornu'r in line with Hall island, as this would lead on to Walker rock. The north-east point of Thetis island should be kept just halfway between the east side of Narrow, and west side of Hall islands ; these marks are very clear and well tlefined, ami are gt'uerally s»'en from a long distance. Houston passage, bttween Kuper island and the western end of Admiral island, leads from Trincomali into Stuart channel. Those intending to take it had better pass up southward of Governor rock. The entrance is between the north-east point of Admiral island and Narrow and Secretary islands ; the southern side of Narrow island is fold, several small islets and rocks extend from one to ;5 cables oH" it ; at 1{ miles K. by S. from Soathty point, a bank having from 2 to .'< fathoms extends one-third of a mile off the Sff t'hart, No. .'79. I If ^ \x\\\>. lit. [icult to [ii Twin niiot iHf I't, iin<l a lodiately eastern Jovorunr N. fniin Oft hif^'h, ,'t'8t siilcH • rock, or alter. H' the shoal |)t alxianl r N.N.W. 1' Narrow t. point ol" w islami, on until iHt point ornu-r in )ck. Th." Iiall'wiiy islands ; ■;ill.\ seen Htern end channel, (lovernor .Vdniiral n side of end from y point, a ile off the Chap. III.] TRIIiCOMAI-l CHANNEL. 133 shore of Adniinvl ishiml, narrowin;,,' tlie navigable channel between that island and Narrow island to one-third of a mile. Portier pass, into (Jeorgia strait, though short (not exceeding one mile from its southern entrance until fairly in the strait), is narrow, imd is rendered still more s(t by sunken rocks ; the tidal streams run from 4 to 7 knots, and overfalls and whirling eiUlies are always in the northern entrance. Caution. — In conse(|nence of the numerous dangers existing in I'ortier j>asfi. Mariners are j.dvised to avoid that passiige. Tides and tidal streams. — The Hood stream sets from Trin- comali channel northward into Georgia strait, and the ebb in the contrary direction. The ebb stream commences from one to 1^ hours before high water by the shore, and runs for one hour after low water, or from 7 to S hours. It is high water, full and change, at iibout 4 p.m., but it is not very regular. At springs the streams run 4 to 7 knots with ilangerous whirls and eddies. CLAM BAY, on the eastern side of Thetis and Kuper islands, opposite Portier i)ass, is formed by the shores of these two islands approaching each other; and the continuation of the bay separates these two islands at high water, when there is a boat channel into Telegraph harbour (pagt' ISIH on tiieir western side.* White spit is a remarkable point of broken clam shells, which can be seen from a long distance, and forms the southern entrance point of the bay ; immediately southwaril of it is a consiilerable native lodge ; a reef, having less than one fathom on it in some places, extends over ',] cables in an K.S.E. direction from White spit point ; Leech island off the northern point of the bay is a small wooded islet. (Vntre reef, with () feet on it, and nuirked l>y kelp, should not bo aj)proaehed nearer than 1} cables, it lies almost in the centre of the entrance, nearly ',\ cables X.W. I, W. from White spit, and one-third of a mile K. by S. from Leech island. Rocket shoal, on which there is u ilepth of t'l feet, lies nt'arly in the centre of the bay, with White spit extreme in line with the highest part of Indian island, bearing K. | S., it is half a cable in extent, with depths of from 2 to 4 fathoms around it. * <S"(' Admiralty plan of Clam bay, on ohart No. 714 ; scale, tn = 3 inches. a ■SSSi i fi % i '^ j: 1 1 1 J 1 ! I ' .: ■li 9 ! i' VM IIARO hTRAlT, WEHTEHN CHANNELS. [Chill). 11^- Directions. — Th** b(>8t passu!?** into Oliim luiy from tlic fastwiinl, is northwiird of Narrow, Socrcfarv, ;ui<l Indian islands, bctwtH'u tlicm and Hall island ; aftor passing' Indian island steer in fur White spit on ii S,W, hcariu},', (^ivinj,' it a Ix'rtli of ojie cable. Anchorap^ may be had in ('lam bay in ('» fathoms betwi-eii Rocket shoal and the shore. Rose islets, five small rocky islets, the northernmost abniit 2<> feet lii^di with a few bushes on it, lies half a mile westward from the north end of Held island, luit with no shij) i)assa^M' between. When bound to Clam bay from the northward, pass westward of these islets. Yellow Olift' ancliorag'e.— 'riien^ is fair anchoraj,'e on the western side of Valdes island, 2 miles above I'ortier pass, im- mediately oif a yellow diil" ; (S fathoms, .sandy b»»ttom, will be found with the clijl" bcarinj; N.W. by N. distant a ((uarter of a mile. Jt will also be known by Shinjjile point, a low projection with a native villaf,'e on its extreme, one-third of a mile W. by N. from the yellow cliir. DODD NARROWS.— To steam- vessels of moilerate len,^'tll, that answer the helm i|ni"k!y, this narrow jjuss otl'eis n(» daiijv- i. The s(ren,i,'tli of tlie tidal stream at its ^'reatest rush is ovt-r cS knots, tin- least depth of water, 7 fathojns, and the narrowest part (d" tlie channel is SO yards wide. If bound thr()iij,di Dodd narrows from the southward, and liavin;,' to wait for slack tide, there is fair anchora'^e with l)ut little stream, westward of Round island in (5 fathoms, midway between it and the shore. Percy anchorage on the north side of the Narrows, between Gabriola and !Mud<,'e islands, is a con\enient place to wait for the tide. Directions. — When proceeding,' for Dodd narrows from abreast Portier i)ass, the most lUrc^ct course is northward of Danger reef, biUween it and Tree island ; the hitter is a small round wooded islet lyinf-r oir the south end of De Courcy islands; this pasaago is two-thirds of ii mile wide, with depths of from 2.') to ;$() fathoms. Danj^'er reef (paffe 121) should not be approached within one-third of a mile; if the reef shoidd not be seen it is reconnnended to pass a quarter of a mile southward of Tree island. S-f chart. \o. 571». HI. illll, thl- rcHdt islet liinl 1 til US Chap. III.J DODlJ XAllKOWS. — I'Yl-AltES CHANN'liL. W The p;lrt,sa,^'u botwroii White rode uiul Damrer roof is f^ooil, it is hall" a mile wide, with tleittliH of t'rotn '2() to 'M) fathoms. White roek iw I.') feet high, and may he itassed if necessary on either sitle, distaut 2^ cables. When fjoinj,' northward, keep on the easteri side of Round island ; after this keep in mid-cduinnel, and attend Ihe steenij?*' quickly and carefully. When thronj^di the Narrows tiie strenirth of the tide ceases, and a vessel will I)e in Xortlmmherland chaniu'l, a line wide passage leading to, and only ') miles from, the anchorage -U Nanaimo. Dodd narrows are not so easy to pass through from tlu' north as from the south, as in the former cas<' ti;<' slight hend that has to he made must be made immediately on enti-ring tlu' narrow part. False narrows.-- When taking the Narrows from the northward, be careful not to mistake False narrows, on the nortlieni side of N(U'thumberlanil channel ; ihoy are much wider than the real pass, but nearly ilry at low water. The channel in False narrows is marked by I) single i»ile beacons, one KjKir buoy, painted red, and two .'<jH(r buoys, painted Idack. This channel is dangerous ami intricate, and shotild not be attempted by anyone not thoroughlj' ac([iiaintt'd witii the locality. The <lepth in the channid marked is about '.) fathoms at high water. The tides should l)e studied in passing eitln-r way. Do not attempt it with ilif full rush of the slr<'am ; an hour bffore or after low water there is ii(» dillictUly to a sleam-vessi'l. Tides and tidal streams.— ll is high water in Dodd narrow** at full an I chang*' at ;5h. iiOm. p.m.. and low water at [Hi. 'M)]n. a.m., and at that period tin* flood stream commences at low water and runs about 7 hours. The first of the flood is the best tinte to pass the Narrows, When leaving Nanaimo and intending to luiss down, be at the Narrows an hour l)cfore high or low water, as the tides are nearly an hour earlier there. The i'bb stream sets across the northern entrance to the Narrows PYLADES CHANNEL.— Till' De Courcy islands extoid 'l}j miles K.S.K. from Mudge island, whit-h separates the False f n m I)od<l narrows, and on the northern sidt- of the group, between them and Vakles island, is Pylades channel, whitdi leads by (Jabriolti pass into Georgia strait, as well as to tin! entrance of the False narrows. iite chart, No. 579. 136 HARO STRAIT, WKSTliRN (CHANNELS. [Chiip. III. The chiimitfl hus an avonige broadth of one milt', with a depth of lif) fathoma, and at itt» head, near the entrance to the False narrows, Ih good anchorage in U fathoms, convenient for those waiting for the tide. Ruxton passage between the north and middle De Coiircy islands is half a mile wide. Gabriola pass, between the south end of (Jabriola islaiul and tlie north end of Valdes island, is not recommendeil, for it is a narrow and intricate ciiannel, something of the same character as Dodd narrows, except that it is a much longer reach ; its narrowest part is not over 250 yards in brean'th, and the shoalest water is 6 fathoms. Overhead telegraph wires are stretched across Gabriola pass ; those having masts over 'M) feet high, should not attempt to pass under the wires. The shore end of the telegrapli cable laid from Grey point (con- necting Vancouver island with the mainland) is landed at Valdes island, 2^ miles south-east of Gabriola pass. Wires are th«;nce carried to Nanaimo and Victoria. Tidal streams. — The tidal streams in Gabriola pass run from 5 to (5 knots. See chart, No. 57!». 1 k- ! ilti I. ".7 CHAPTKIi IV. MIDDLE CHANNEL.— LOPEZ SOUND— OROAS WEST AND EAST SOUNDS. Viii-iiition from 2:2.'> to '2:)° Kast in 1S!)S. MIDDLE CHANNEL is tlie centre of three piiHsii^cs leii<linp from J mm de Fuca strait iuto that of Geor^'ia, ami it) bouuileil by San .Juau isiaml on the west, and tlie islands Lope/,, Shaw, and Ureas (»n tlu- east. Altliouf,'h adapted for steamships of the larjj;est size, the southern entrance is coulined, and subject to strong' tidal streams, with a general absence of steady winds ; the wide straits, l\osari(» and Ilaro, on either side of it, are to be preforreil for sailing-vessels.** When entering, the danger to 1)6 avoided on the western sid*' is the Salmon bank, and on the eastern, Wiude rocks, always out of water. Tlie tidal streams in this entrance set from 15 to 7 knots an hour, with eildies aiul ripplings ; when within the entrance, there is far less stream, and Gritliu bay, ollering gooil anchorage, is easily reached. LIGHT. — On Cattle point a ti.red while light is exnibited at an elevation of 1<M> feet above water. Salmon bank extends i^ miles South from Cattle point, the south-east extreme of Sau Juau island, a bare point al)out ")(! feet high, sloping from mount Finlayson, and the h'ast depth fouiul on it is 10 feet, with rocky patches, marked in summer by kelp ; depths varying from \ to i) fathoms extend a further distance of three- quarters of a mile in the same direction. A black can buoy marks the southern edge of the bank. Whale rocks, on the eastern side of the entrance, are two black rocks one cal)le apart, and ."{ or i feet above high water ; a patch with one fathom on it, on which kelp grows, extends 2 cables S.S E. * .Sfr Admiralty charts : -Hftrostruii ami Middle chiumel, No. 2,840 ; scale. m=l'0 inch ; also Haru and Uoaurio Htraiia, Nu. 2,i)8<J ; uoale, m = U-5 iiuihes. I I -» i - * I i I IB.I ^ l.'W HylRO AUCHiriaA(J(), MIDDM-: ClIAXNKL. [Cliiili. IV, from tlii'in, otlu'rwlsu tliey are Hteep-to, but it is not n-coiniiit'iKled t(» jnisH them nearer than a quarter of a mile, as the tidal streams set rttroiif^jly over them. Directions.— Enterinj? Midille ehanni'l, ('attic ixtint rtliould be jjriven a berth of at least 1] miies. Mount Krie, a remarkable mountain on Fidaljji) island ],2,')0 feet hij,'h, in line with .lennis point Itearinj,' N K. by K. \ K. leads 1} miles South of Salmon bank ; when the entrance to the cliininel is (tpen, bearini,' N.N.W., or wlu'n Goose island, a small islet on the western side of the entrance, is in lino with Orcas Nob bearinj,' N.N.W. i, W., steer in for the passa^'c. Orcas Nob is a remarkable conical hill, with a bare stony summit, 1,104 feet above the sea, risinj; over the west side of Orcas island. The bottom in the channel is rocky and irref?ular, varying' in depth from 1<S to (■>(» fathoms, causing? overfalls and eddies which are ai»t to turn a ship olf her course unless the helm lie jjiven (juickly to meet them. Griffin bay is immediately within the southern entrance of Middle clianntd. AlthouLrh spacious, yet from the f^reat depth of water there is but a limited portion of the bay available for anchoraLfe, and this is in the southern anjL^le, imme(liately off the remarkable prairie land between two forests of pine trees.* With all westerly (»r southerly winds (rritlin bay affords ii[ood shelter ; but with those from North or N.K. it is consilerably exposed, and landiii.urisdillicult inconseciuence of the htnif Hat which extends off the beach. These winds, howevei-, are not of frequent occurrence. Half-tide rock, just awash at high water, lies 4 cables from the western shore of the bay. There is another rock which covers at a quarter Hood, lyinj? one-third of a mile N. i W. from the pier on the beach. The best anchorage is in H fathoms, muil bottom, with the southernmost of the white cliffs on Lopez island well open of Harbour r;.ick, bearing E. by N. ^ N. ; from this position the water shoals rapidly towards the shore, and at i\ cables nearer in, there are only ',i fathoms ; a stranger shouUl drop an anchor tlirectly 12 fathoms is obtained. North bay, iu the north-west angle of Griffin bay, immediately under Park hill (a bare grassy eminence about ISO feet hi;,di). affords * Sir Admiralty chart : — Orifliii bay, Xo. (ill ; scale, m bbH-O inch. ' Chill.. IV.] (illlFFIN HAY.— FIUDAY IIAIUIOUR. i;;o fjodd iiiiclior.i^c in rnmi 4 to 10 futhoiiis, iiiiid bottom, with all wimlrt Itiit thnsi' t'roiii S.K., Id which it is H<niit'\vhat exposed. Tin- iMtltnni hen" 's more roj,Miliir than in rrrilliii hay, and alloj,'('tlu'r it in pffhaps a HiiU^'j^'cr ant'horaf,'o. Anchor in from <■» to ',t fathoms, mud bottom, with the cast poinl of Dinner island licarin;,' S.S.K. [, K., distant I cables. Nt'W shoal, in the fairway of tin* entrance to North bay, has ;> feci over it and is marked by kelp u (juarter of a mile in extent. A sjiai- buoy, coU)ured in horizontal stripes, is im.ortMl with north extrenje of Dinner island W. by S. distant (I cables. Those without l(»cal kuowled|ije are recomnuMuUMl to pass Houthward of the shoal. Tidea and tidal streams.— The ran-je at the sonthern entram-e of Middle channel, at full and chanf,'e, is 12 feet ; Itiit lillle stream is felt at the anchorajjes. With the flood an e<Uly, (d' about (»ne knot iui hour, sets southward in Grinin bay, and with the ebb in ihe opposite direction. Turn island lies nearly ') miles N.W. by N. from the south entrance of tin- Middle chamiel. Its eastern j.oint, a clilVy blidV, makes as the extreme of the peninsula which forms the north side of Grillin bay. Tlu' island should l»e passed at a distance of over half a mile, particularly f^oinj: northward with the llood ; there is a channel for boats or small craft between it and the peninsula. Turn rock lies nearly a (|uarter of a mile N.K. from the islaml, and covers at hifj^h water, and is marked by an iron spindle, surmounted by a white ca^e. The tide sets with great stren;,'th over this rock, and tliose passing up or down the channel are recommended to giv*- it a good berth. Friday harbour is rather contined, but oilers good anchorage, and is easily accessible to steam-vessids or small craft. Hrown island lies in the entrance, and there is a passage on eitlu'r side of it. The passage westward of Brown island is the wider, being '.\ cables across. In the centre of this entrance there is a rocky patch of i\^ fathoms. Anchor in 9 fathoms, mud bottom, with the west cliffy point of Brown island bearing N.N.E. J E., and the south point of same island bearing E. h S. .SVv chart, No. 2,840. i 140 HARO ARCIIIPELA(U), MIDDI.I-: CIIAXNKL. [Chap. IV. Reld rook, the U-ast water on whicli i.s 12 feet, lies in mid- iliannt'l ; it is marked by kelp, which, however, is somotimes run under hy the tide. The rock lies ly'„ miles W.X.W. from the north jmint of Turn isliind, and there is ;i clear deep channel on either side of it. A nun buoy, coloured in red and wliite horizontal stripes, marks this shoal. Wasp Islands are on the tuisteru side of the channel, between and amonj; which are several passages leading i)etween Shaw and Orcas islands, and communicating with the harb«)urs, which deeply indent the southern coasts of tiie latter. Rocky bay, on the western side of Middle channel, 4 miles from Caution point, does not all'ord nuich shelter, antl it is not recom- mended to use it unless in case of necessity. The small ^island, O'Neal, lies in tiie ci'ntre of it. There is a depth of 14 fathoms between the island and San Juan, but the bottom is rocky. A reef, on which the sea generally breaks, extends U, cables off the San .hum shore, bearing S.W. by S. from O'Neal island. Jones island lies in the northern entrance of Middle channel, on the eastern side, nearly half a mile from Orcas island. The island is less than one mile in extent, mostly wooded, but its western points are bare and grassy. Spring i)a8sage, between Jones island and the west side of Orcas, saves some distance to a steam-vessel passing up or down Middle channel, by the Douglas channel. It is one mile in length, 4 cables in breadth at its narrowest part, with an average depth of 15 fathoms. Some rocky patches extend one cable off the eastern side of Jones island ; and a rock which covers at 2 feet flood lies the same distance north of a small cove on the north-east side of the island ; a rocky patch, with five fathoms on it, lies 2 cables off the west side of Orcas island, and Gi cables N.E. by E. from the north-west end of Jones island ; therefore, it is desirable to pass through in mid-channel. Passing up or down Middle channel, the north-east end of San Juan should be avoided as the tidal streams are strong, and a sailing-vessel is apt to be drawn into the strong tide-rips and overfalls in the eastern entrance of Spieden channel. &f chart, No. 2,840. Chap. IV.] REID ROCK.— DOUOLArt fllANNEL. 141 Flattop island, in the northern cntraiicf of MicMIi* chaniit'l, 2 niik's N.W. by W. from .loiu's iHlantl, in out -third of ii iniK' in leni,'th, woodcil, ami about lOK foot lii^'li. At 2 cabU-H od' itfl W(fstt>rn sido is a rock nearly one cable in extent and 25 feet above high water. DOUQT-A.S CH/^NNEL, also called President ebannel, Ih the continuatid of Middle cliannel and leads into Ilaro strait, between Orcas and VValdron islands, 'riiere are other passiiges leailinj; into the Ilaro strait, viz., westward of Flattoj) island, l)etween it and Spieden and Stuart islands ; and eastwanl of Fiattoji, between it and Waldron island. In the former, the confused tide> and eijdies are liable to enlan<jle :i sailinjjr-veHSel amon^' S])ie(|en and the nei^di- bonrinf,' frrnups of sinaM islands and rocks ; in the lattt'r. While rf>ck with its ofT-lyinj; dant,'ors offers serious iin])ediinents to the safe iiavijjation of the same class of vessels. If necessary, there ip iem}»orai'y anchorage in 12 fathoms in the bay, about 4 cables southward of the bill of Orcas. Directions. — The channel westward of Flattop island is less than one mile wide at its narrowest })art. Green iK)int of Siiiedeii island is stee])-to ; a tide-ri)» is generally met with off it. After pa.ssing Flatto)) island, the channel course is N.W. by N. until Skipjack island opens of Sandy point (Wahlron island), bearing N. by K. j 10., when a course may be shaped t-ither nj) or down Ilaro strait ; wiili the ebb, be careful not to get set into tlie channel betwe(>n Spicdeti and Stuart islands. The channel eastward of Flattop island. l)etween it and Whit«- rock, is about the same breadth as the one just de.scriln-cl, but Danger rock, with .'» feet on it, which lies a (piarter of a mile S.E. by E. from the centre of White rock, must " be carefully avoided. After passing Flatto]) island, keep its eastern side just touching the western point of .Jones island, bearing S.F. !^ K., and it will lead nearly three-quarters of a mile westward of Danger rock ; whi'ii Skipjack island opens out northward of Sandy point, bearing N. by E. ^ E., all the dangers are cleared. If passing between White rock and Disney point (the high stratified clifiC oft' Waldron island), the latter should be kept well aboard if the ebb is running, or a ves.sel is liable to be set on the rock. The west Srr chart, No. 2,840. 142 HARO AFlCiriPKTiAfiO, MIDDLK CIIANNKL. [Clifip. IV. I)lnir of Huciii shniiM l>y no iiumms Ix- shut in by tht'Houthi'ni part of WaMrun inliiiid (tluwi two poiiitH touching' luiul (hr('»'-(|Uiirti'i'H of u mile ciistwiii'd of I)aii;^t'r rock, hut it muHl he iviiU'inhtTt'il the ebl) H»'trt stron^'ly down on it), until Moimrch h<'ii(l is well sliut in with Siindy point, tlic hitter JM-arini,' N.W. I X., steer throu'fh with these marks on, and when White rock is in line with the west side of l''lattoi» isliinij, hearin;; S. \ \V., a vessel will l»e clear of all danj.;vrs, and laav steer eilher up or down Haro strait, ;,'iv'inj,' Sainl.v point a borth (d' half a mile. Tidal streams. —'IMmse in sailinur-vesselH workinir throu<rh Doii^'las ehannrl sliould beware of trettin^' too close o\'«"' on the Waldr<»n island sh<»re, near Disney point as with calm or lijjrht winds they would run the risk of beiuLr set l)y the el)b (ui to Dani^er ro(tk, on which the kclj) is stddom 8eon. lioth Hood and eldi set fairly throu^di Middle and Donjjlas channtds, at the rate of 2 to 5 knots. The ebb stream, cominj,' down between East point and I'atoa island, rttrikes the north point of Waldron island, aiul one part of it, to<,'ether with the stream between Patos and Sucia islands, jjasses down Dou^das and Middle channels. The other part sets between the Skipjack and Waldron island ; thence southerly throuj^di the j,'roups in the nei^diljoiirhood of Stuart island into Ilaro strait, as well as down Middle channel. It should be observed that tho ebb stream continues to run down throu{,'h the whole of tho passaj^'es in tho archipelago, for 2^ hours after it is low water by the shore, uud the water has begun to rise. PATOS ISLAND lies 2:{ miles E.X.K. from East point of Saturna ; the passage between them being the widest, and at present most frecjuented, though it is not always the best (rhannel from Ilaro or Middle chimnels into (Jeorgia strait. I'atos is H miles long in an east and west direction, narrow, wedge-.shaped, slojjing towards its western end, and covered with trees. Active cove at its western i^nd is formeil by a small islet connected at low water, and affords anc)joi~age for one or two small vessels in 2 fathoms, but a strong tide-rip at the point renders it difficult for a sjii ling-vessel to enter. The passage into Georgia strait between Patos and Sucia ishmds, although considerably narrower than the one just mentioue<l, is for several reasons at times to be preferred, especially for vessel.s passing See chart, No. 2,689. rhap. TV.] VXTOH ISLAND.— STTPI A ISLAND. lin throii^'h Miildlf fliiimit'l or for sailiii^'-vi'ssclrt with a N.W, wind. Tlic tidal strt'ains aro not ho Htronjr, iiion' rt'^'iilar, and Hft tnoi-*' fairly tliro\ij,'h ; tiio |>asHai,'o i.^ I [ inih'H wide, and iH almost frco from tide-rijm. LIGHT.— Patos or Alden point light is ji.ml nd of Hmall itowt'r. Fogr Sigrnal. — A trnmiu't yives l)larttH of li('i) xfi'ntiih duration, foliowt'd by a silont inti'rval of eit/ftfi'rn srcondfi. Directions. — If intondinf,' to tako the paHwaKi* ln'twct n Patos and Sucia ishuulH, oither up or tlown, an oxctdlent mark for t-U-arin*,' tin- IMumptT and (JIcmcntH ruefH (dangerous patches lyinj; southwanl and northward from Sucia) is to keej) the remarkable round summit of Stuart island (CA'i fei^t hi^'h) just open westward of Skipjack island, the westernmost wooded island north of Waldron, bearing' S.W. i S.; this leads well clear of both the reefs, and the same marks would lead across Alden ])ank in 4 fathoms. If taking' the i)assaf,'e from the Middle or I )ttuj,das channels, keep the whilc-fiHTd dills of H(tl)crts point well open wesiwarij of I'atos island, the dills iteariu",' N.X.W. .', W., until the marks bt-fore ilescr; beil [ire on, when steer thniu^'h the p;issa^n rlilli If the ebl» stream is running', il is better to keep the I'atos ishmd shore altoard ; Iti fathoms will be fouinl on the Sucia shore, but il is not recommended to anchor unless positively necesdarv. if staiulin^' north-eastward, Clark island, op«'n of the east eiul of Matia, or I'tillin islet, the former bearinj,' K.S.K., will lead eastward ot Clements reef. SUOIA ISLA.ND is indented on its eastern side i»y bays and inlets ; Sucia hai-b(Uir, the lar^'est of these, all'ords fair anchoraf,'e. The island is from 2(K) to 1500 feet hiv:h, thickly covered with i)ines, and its western side a series of steep wooded blull's. Plumper reef, or West bank, with 10 feet on it, lies 1{ miles S.W. by S. from Lawson blufF, tlu' hi^diest north-west point of Sucia island. There is a deep i)assa{,'e between Plumper reef and Suoia island, but it is not recommended. Clements reef, on which tht're is a depth of K feet, lies H miles N.K. I N. from Lawson bluil". Some rocky patches covering at hi>;h water, and marked l)y kelp, lie between Clements reef and Kwiuf? Scr nhnrt, No. 2,«»S0. 1 n m m \i\ ■i. I, 111 HARO AUCniPPJT-A(!0. MIOOLK CHANNRL. [Chil]). IV. iMJunil, ;in<l it is n<»t siifc to pans lu'tw-fcii tlu'in. Then' i.< ii deep cliaiiiici aliout dill' milt' wide bctwci'ii Siiiia ami Matia. ('h'lnciitH nt'l' iH inarkrd hy a ri"l iiiin Itimy at a <|iiartt'r of a milt' iiorth-eaHtward of tb«' n-t't". Directions.— Kntcrii'.},' Sucia liarlionr from tin" nortliward, steer for it, with the west iii)iiii of ( Marie island in line with I'ulHn islet, about S.K. Ity K.. which leads lietween Ald<n l)anl< and (Menu-nts reef : wlien Kwi(i\' island hears S.W. l»y S., alter course to iihout South, ^'ivii'ir the jioint of the islaml a l)erth of at least !? eahles, to avoid some rocky patches which extend '* cahles S.K. fr(un it. When the hariioiir is wtdl open steer up the centre W. .', S.; it is hetier to keep the southern or Wall ishmd shore r.ilher alioard. as it is (juite steep, ami there arc some reel's extending; niic cidde off the north shore. I I Anchor in the ecnire in 7 or N fathoms, niud hottom. If inteiidint,' to stay it is ilesiralde to moor, as the harbour is small for a latere veHsel ; it alfi'i'ils yood shelter from westerly winds; with those from south-east some swell sets in l)ut never sunicieiit to render the anehoraL'e unt.ife. If eiiterii!;,' from |)ou,i,das (dianmd, keep Orcas Hill just tomdiinj,' the south blulf of Waldron islaml, beariiif,' S.W. i S.; this leads wtdl west wai'i I of I'arker reef. if bound (o Sueia hsirbour f roni Kosario sti-.iit, pusH on either side of Harnes, C'.ark, and Matia islands iis eonvi-nient ; if northward <tf the latter, as soon as the harbour is open, steer for it, kt'ei»inj,' the southern. side iilioar(l its liefore directed, do not staiiil so far westward as to shut in the north j»art of Sinclair islaml \vith Lawrence point, in t rder to avoid J'arkt'r reel'. : 8, Parker reef lies in the passa^'e between Siicia and Orcas islands; at low water it uncovers a (juarter of a mile of rock and sand, but its eastern end always shows its rocky summit w liicli is just awasluit hi^'h water. It lies '21 miles N.K. :} K. from Nob point (Orcas Mill). There is a j)assa>,'e on both sides of the reef ; that north wiiivl betwei-n it and SiK'ia is one mile wide, with depths from ;{') to ."),') fathoms; that southward, between it and Orcas, is half a mile wide, with deptha from (1 to S fathoms, but ii slranwer is recommended not to use it, as the points of Orcas at this part run otV shoul. S-e chart. No. U.ttSW. Chap. IV.] 8UCIA HAnnOUR.— LOPEZ IHLAND. 145 If tho uorthern iKiHsaf,'*' \h jihoiI, tho north part of Skipjack iHlaml, ki'pt in lino with tht; south oxtronu' di' IViuh^r islanil bearinj^ W.S W., leadH well clt-ar of I'iirkor nu-f. A part of tho ebb Htreain, tfettin<,j down bt'tweon Siu-ia and Matia irtlamlrt, nniH wt-stward Htron{,'ly over I'arkcr reef, and thr'»u},'h tin- chaiiiit'ls on both sidcrt of it ; the lloou rtt'tH in till! contrary direction. A patch of '.) fathoms lies a (juarU-r of ;i mile W.S.W. fritin Parker n-t'f, witli 1 to r> fathoms cxtcndiiij,' onc-tliird of a niilo from its west side. Matia Island, about <»ne mile eastwai-d from Sueia, is about one mile in e.xtent, east and west ; on its SMUtbern side an .sevt nil boat coves. Close olf its eastern extreme is Pullin islet, oil which a Hat rock extends 1.^ cables. Skipjack and Pengruin islands an- .small islamls lyinp close (»IV the north side ol Wuldron island ; the fornu'r is considerably the larj^er, and is wooded ; the latter is small, i,'r;issy, and bare of tnn'H. A reef which covers, and is markeil by kelp, lies between the two, but bc'tween thi.-: re«'f and Skipj.ick island there is a narrow passjige t)f .S fathoms. The liilal streams, Intwever, set stronj,dy b<?tween the islands, and it is not rccommendt-d ; neither, for the same rea.son, is the pa.ssa^^'e between them and Wuldnm island iinlt-ss to tllo^>e thoroiif^'hly ac'iuainted with the navigation. LOPEZ ISLAND, the southernmost island (»n the eastern side of Middle ehaniiel, is '.• miles loni,', N.N.W. and S.S.IO., and '.\ mih's wide, thickly wooileil, iiut dill'ers from all the otlur islands of the archipelajjo in bein;^ much lower and almost Hat, except at i(H northern and so'.'thern extremes, where tdevations occur of ii few hundred feet, li i southern side is mm-li indented by Icijs ami crei'ks, w';U(;ij, however, from their exjiosed positi(m and rocky nuture, cannot be reckoned on as anelioraijfs, Maokaye harbour, on (he s.iuth coast of Lope/, island, "I miles eastward of the iiitrance to Mi Idle clianni-l, is entered bi'tween .lennis {loint on tiie south, and \a)\\<^ and ( harles islands on the no''lh ; from the latter it takes an t-asterly direction for one mile, and and then trends southward for a short «!iatance, terminaiim,' ii. a low sjindy beach. In the entrance lliert' are tlepths «)f from M to 12 fathoms, muddy l)ottom, but with the prevailinK south-westerly win»U the anchora;,'.' is a mnul dtial ex|iostd ; with northerly or Hev oluurt, No. 2,UtfU. BO 11W» \ ; I 146 HARO ARCHIPELAOO, MIDDLK CHANNEL, [Chap. IV. easterly windn there would be fair anehftniffe. Ooasters or Hmall vesHelH (Invwin^ 12 ft't't may get sheittT in the Houtli bight ; .Icmiis point Mhotihl bo pasHed at about '.) cabli's distant ; the anciionigc in \\ inih'H from it. With Honlli-wt'slrrly winds tlic coast and islan.ls on tli'- tastt'rn side of Middh' channel entrance, between VV'jjah' rocks and .U-nnis point, Hhoiiid b(* avoided, as tiien a consiileral)le sea sets in ; and when passing the coaat between Jennis point and cai)e Colville, it is th'sirable to keep one mile off shore, at) Home straggling rocks exist, which will be tn-ated <d' under liie head of llosario stniit. Shark reef, on the western side of Lop.'/ island, immediately within Middle channel, and halt" a mile northward of White <lin', consists of two rocks awash at low water, extending a little over one cable olf shor>', and must be avoided wheii working up the channel. Large vessels working up are recommended not to approach nearer than a ijuarter of a mile. Careen creek, <>ii the west side (tf Lopez island, is 1 miles fron> the south entrance of Middle channel, and its entrsvnce lies 'i mili's K. \ N. from Turn island. The western enlriince point is a low ttiiiuly si)it, close nuind which there are :' fathoms water, and on it a vessel might, in |)erfect shtdter, lu' beached and n'paireil with much facility ; the creek terminates in a large salt lagoon. Uprig^ht channel, st'itaniting Lop»'z from Shaw island, is a deep passage, leading from Middb^ channel tu the sounds Orcas and Lopex, and by several ))as8ages into Kosari** str.iit. The narrowt»st part is scarcely 2 cables wide. Flat point is a low shingle or saiuly point, with grass and small btishes on it, steep-to. C.moi* island is fring«Ml by kel|), and a rock marked l»y kel;. lies <uie cable South of it.s south point. The tidal streams i're not considerable in Upright channel, seldom over ',) knots, an*l it is in all res|)ects a sjife passage. Anchorage may be had in (i <ir 7 fathoms in Indian cove, westward of ('anoe island, with Flat point in line with the south )>oint of Canoe island ; the luily precaution neo-Ksary is to avoid the rock off the .south point of the island. Shoal bay, close eastwanl of Fpright hill, extends S.S.K. one mile to its head, and is separated from False bay in Lope/ sound l>y .*<< chart, No. 2,ttH9. : 3. TV. iKO in ist<'rn ; IIU«1 e, it irt exiHt, iliiitt'ly ,. clilV, \i>r (»n«* liiiniu'l. nt';ir»'r t'rt from ■2 mili'H (»n it u h much Lopt'/M t i>iirt in nd unuill h..!';. Ii*''< M-f not IS ill iili ,>'«t\VHr*l lot* Civmif oil" tlM^ I).Vj. one kouml by Chap. IV.] MACKAYE HARHOm.— LOPKZ SOUND. 147 a low neck of land one eablo acrosH. Although aMparently a con- HidcrahU' shi'ut of wuttT, the anchoriim) for lan.t' vcsaeln is much liiuiti'd by a shoal which extends more tlian half way across from just within the point of Upri,<?ht hill towards th<' eastern point of th<» hay ; the shoiil tlieu extends ii|i the hay In its head, leaving tho ^r»'ater half on the western side, with uo more than from 2 to '.\ fathoms at low water. The best anchorage for largo vessels is in S fathoms with Upright })oiiit (the west p<)int of tho bay) in line with tlie east point of Shaw ishmd, beariii;,' \V. •{ N., one cable inside this position tlu'ro are i fathoms; the lioliling ground is good. LOPEZ SOUND, on the eastern side of Lopez island, extends H.S.K, for V, miles, lis eastern side is formed jtartly by Loih'z and partly by Decatur and lUakely islands, lying pandlel with it ; and between these ishnuls, as well as northward of the latter, are paswiges h-ading into Rosario strait. The average l)read<h ol the sound is nearly 1), miles, and there is a convenient depili of water for anchorag*' in almost every part of it. Middle btnk, on which thee are not less than ;} fathoms, is half a mile in exte;>t north and south, 2 cables east and west, and liea almost in the cei tre of th»' soup.J, its north end being a nuarter of a mile S.S.K. fron the south end of Frost island, lietween Middle bank and Housto i island there is anchonige in any ))art of the sound in from '> to 7 fiatioms, nnid bottom. Just abn'ast Maury paswige (l)etween tiie south end of Decatur a?id th(^ north-east point of L< jje/), the water th'epens to KJ antl ir> fathoms, and this depth ih maintained for I.^ miles, or as far na Crown islet, a small steep rovky Ish't on the eastern side, within one mile of the head of the sound. Tidal streams. —Tliere is hiit little stream of tidi" felt in Lopez sound, unless in the immediate :.fighb(»urhood of the narrow passiiges from Kosario stmit. Entrance shoal, with 1 fathoms <m it, ami marked by kelp, lies 1\ miles X.K. l>y K. { K. from I'pright point, and half a mile from the shore of lilakely islaiul ; there is deep water on either side of it. .S,r chart. No. 2,68», SO lli)48 KS *r~" :t I i I iil 148 HARO ARCHIPELAOO, MIDDLE CHANNEL. [Chap. IV. False bay (also callod Swifts ]);iy) Ih on the west side of the sound, one niile from Sh(Kil b.iy. A shoiil, of 2 fathoins, i'xt(MidH from tlio ccntnj of Falst! bay, and connects with the small island Arbutii.s, lyinj? in its entrance, and renders it un/it for anehorajs'e except for small vessels ; but vessels may anchor in H fathoms south- ward of Arbutus, between it and Frost island. Half-tide rook, coverinj; at half flood, and not marked by kelp, is in the track of vessels enterin;,'. It lies threi'-tpiarters of a mile S.K. by K. }, Vj. from St'paration point. It is better to pass eastward of it, wluin it is not visible ; tlie point <if Uijrif^ht hill kepi junt open of Kei>aration point, bearin,' \V. by N. } N., uniil the clay clilf of Gravel spit is in line with the east point of Arbutus island, bearing,' S. by K., will lead ch-ar of it. Fr03t island, lialf a mile loiii,' north and south, lies close off fJravcd spit on the west side of the sotnid ; it is wo idcd, iind its western side ji steep cliff, bi'twe.'U whieli and the spit end ile-re is a narrow chantud with a di'pth of ') f'allioms. Black aad Crown islets.— Hlack islets are a ridfje of steep ro;'ky islets, lyin-,' within and across tlie entrance of Maury passajje ; at 2 cables S. by W. from the southernmost of these ish^ts Is a rock which covei-s at (juarter flood. There is a p.issa<,'o of S and l) fathoms on either side of (!rown islet, and anclioraj^e above* it in ;') or (i fathoms, but do not proceed far above, as at one-third of a mile it shoals to one antl 2 fathoms, and dri«'S for a considerabh* distance from the lieiid of the sound ; then! is also ^,'00.1 anchora^^e in .'> fathoms in the lii^dil, n'l-stward of Cn wn islet. Passin;^ up the sound between Crown islet and the western shore a rocky i)itch of 2 fathoms must bi- avoided ; it lies a (luartes" of a mile W. by N. from Orown islet, and 1 cables from the western .shon! of the sound ; (here ai'e 12 fathoms close to it, and ileep water in the passajjfe on either side of il. THATCHER PA. -SAGE. b»'tw.en Hlakelyand Decatur islands, is the widest and most convenient i»assa;ie into Lope/ sound from Uosario str.iit ; it is 1 J, miles in le::{;fth, and its narrowest part 4 cables wide, with a f,'eneral depth of frotn 20 to 2.') fath<nns. The tidal streams in 'riiaichei- pas.say:e run from 2 lo I knots. Lawson rock, lyin^r almost in the centre of the eastern nntranco, co.er« at 2 feet flood. It lies I cables N.W. by N., from Fauiuleiov Srr chart, No. 2,(i«{>. Cliaj). IV.] THATCllKU AND «)r.STnUCTION PA.SSAiiBS. V.) point, i'lii'i-t' [h :i good piwrtii^ ^ on rithcr side of tlu' roclt, but that to tho HoutiiWiird is the Itotler. The Hoiithorn I'df^o, of LiiWHon rot-k is niarlictl by a can Imoy, painted nnl and l>lack in hori/.ontal stripow. Directions. — Kntcrin/,' Thatdicr passa^'c from tlu- souliiward, if tho Hood is runnini,', the south siion' sliouid In- kcjit pretty elose aboard, jw until well within the i)asria{4;e it st^ts ujt towanls LawHon rock. When the ])arisajjr<' between Decatur and James islands is shut in by Faiuitleroy jioint, a vessid will be just westward or inside tho rock. Those enterihf^' by ThiiUher passage, and drawing (»ver IS feet, should avoid the Middh^ bank by keipiiig llie soiilii sliore altoard within 2 ca))les ; White roek in line with the smith point of lUakv iy island leads over the tail of the shoal in '2^) f«'et. The flood stream sets from Hosario strait through Tliateher passage both up and down the sf)UiKl ; a slight stream of Hood also enters the souiul from tlu' northward. Maury passage, between Decatm- island and ihe north-east jioinl of Lopu/, is the southernmost entnince to the sound from UoKirio strait. It is scarcely 2 eaI)l(^H wide at the entrance, with a ilepth of 12 fathoms; the Black islets lie across the westttrn entrance, and it is necessary to keep to the southwanl, between (Iwui ind L<ii»i'/,. OBSTRUCTION PASSAGES. -Ol)structii.u ishmd lies i.. the centre of tho channtd, between the north ptiint of lUakily and the south-east |)oint of Orcas island, and the passages o\. either side of it form safe and convenient ceinmunieation, by l'i»righl eliaiiiiel, betwtH-n tlu' Middle channel and liosario stiiiit ; they likewise lead from Uos{iri<t strait to Orcas anil Lopez sounds. These jesses are more adapte«l to steam than sjiilingve>xls, although tlu-re would be no dillieidty with a leading wind and fair tides. Small vi-ssels would tind no dilliculty if the tides wei\> prt)perly taken advantage of. LIGHTS. — A tiered white light is e.vhibited from a po.st on the north -oast point, »nd a fixed red light from the south-west extrojue of Obstruetiou island. North Obstruction pass is about 1 1 miles long, its average breadth 2 cables, the narrowest |>u.rt (less than two cables) occurring d$c duurt, No. 2,uay. F"^ 150 IIAUO AUCHIPELAOO, MlUDLB CHANNEL, [Chilp. IV. ! 1 ! i 11 i-l M I If V, I just lifter making thu bciul ; tlio fjoneral depth iB from S to 11 I'iitlioins. Ill coiiHcqucnce of the b<'ii<l in this chiinnel it hiw more th»! appear- aiico of a bay, when seen from eitiier entrance. The east end of Obstruction island shouhl not be approaciied nearer than one cable, as shelving rocks extend a short distance off it ; the best course for a Htotimer is to keep in mid-channel. South ObStruotion pass, though narrower than the North, is the better of the two, as it is not more than three-tiuarters of a mile in length, and is strai«^ht N.K. and S.W. Its narrowest pi»rt is one cable wide ; the depth much the same as in the northern pass. On the south side of the eastern entrance two rocks exten»l off Hlakely island, the inner bt'ing always above high water ; the outer, a long black rock, is nearly a (quarter of a mile off shore, is just awash at high water, and is marked by an iron spindle surmounted byu whito barrel. Entering from Rosario strait, the pass should be brought well open bearing H.W. before approaching it nearer than half a mile ; in like manner wlmn passiu',? into Rosario strait, it the black rock is not seen, a N.E. course should be maintained until at that distance from the east<'rn entnuice. When the west i)oint of Hurrows island opens eastward of the east point of Hlakely island, bearing S.E., a v«'ssel will be half a mile eastward of any dangers, Tiie south side of the pass appears like a round wooded island, in conseipience of the land falling abruptly behiml it, where there are two lagoons. Tidal streams. — The tlood stream in both parses sets westward from Rosario strait, and the el)b eastward ; the latter runs f(»r lU'arly two hours after it is low water by the shore ; the strength varies from '2 to f) knots. SHAW ISLAND is much of the siime character as Lope/,, though considerably snuiUer, being about ',) mih'S in extent ; between it and Orcas island lie the ^Vasp group, among which are several pass;i^'es leading to Orcas and hope/ sounds, and into Ro.sario stniit. WASP ISLANDS, ii^' in nuuilier, bt-sidt's sum.' sniailfr isbis ami rocks, lie on the eastern side of Middle channel, between Shaw ami Orcas islands. Yellow island, the westernmost of the group, is rather remarkable from its colour, grassy and nearly bare of trees, the .*r chart, No. 2,68'J Chill). IV.] WASP ISLANDS AND TASSAOKS. 151 rtMUiiinik'i' of tb<' jfroup ^)^•iM^' woodi'd ; from itH wi'st uiid a rtiiiuly Hpit exteiidH oiio cabU', hiiviiij,' at its extrome a rock which dries at h)\v' water, and aromid whicli kelj) grows ; this point Bhoiiid 1ki avoided when passing up or th)wn Middh* channel. Brown and Reef Islands lie northward <»f Vell(»w islami ; off the western side of the latter a reef extends more than one cable and several rocks surrounded by kelp extend over one e.ihle off the west side «)f Hrown island. A depth of 1 fathoms is reported t«) lie between Hrown and Reef islands. Wasp p.issage le,ids throu.,'h this group to Oreas sound and Hosario strait. With the assistance of the chart, a steaui-vessel would tind but little tlilUciilty in jjissim,' throu,'h it, thuii'jrh the passiige by Upright cluumel is to be preferred. Crane island, on the northern side of Wasp passige, is wooded, and much larger than either of the Wasp gronj). l*ol(? passage northward of Cran«^ island is so narrow (l.'»(l feet) that it appears joined to Orcas ; this channel is only fit for boats. LIGHT. — A .//./•«/ red light is e-xhibited from a pile on tlu- north shore of Pole pass. Nob islet is a remarkable round islet, 5t) feet higli, with two or three bushes on its summit ; it lies just westward of Cliff island. Directions. — Passing between lilrown and Heef islands, where the channel is nearly a (juarter of a miie wide, with a general depth of ',) fathoms, and a pat( h of 4 fathoms nearly mid-channel, ISird rock (awash at high water) may be passed on either side ; the wider l)assagt( is eastward of it, between it and Crane island, where the channel is a ijuarter of a mile across, and has a dttpth of l.'> fathoms. After passing Bird rock steer southward of ('nine island, between it and ('liff island and thence between Crane island and the north end of Shaw islaml. .Vpproaching the east end of Crane island, the elianiiel nairuurt lo one «Ml»le. 'I'lie steep elilVv coast of Sliaw island mii -( Mnu be kept aboard to av(»i»l Passage rock, which lies 1^ i-abh-s eastward of Passage island. Nob islet, just touching the florlh end of (Miff island, and just open southward of the south side of Crane island, leads onv cable H(uith of I'assjige rock, which is coveri'd at '2 feet rise. See chart, No. 2,68U. J ii I ^f^ 152 IIAIU) AllOHlIM':LA(iO, MIUDLK CIIANNKIi. [('llilp. IV. Wliuu Urciis iiolj is over tlir iuutkw parttia^'n Ik'Iwi'c.i DouI)!- iriliiiuls and (Ik^ west .shori- of VV^^st soiiiitl, bnariii'^ N.N.W. ,f W. a vcsHt'l is eastward of Passaj,'!} rook, and may steer up West souii'l, or eastward for East sound, »u' Itosario strait. Passing out of West sound the sumo marks are etjually ^ood ; steer ilown just westward of IJrokeii point (a iiimarkable cliU'y peninsula on the iiortli side of Hii'aw island) until they are in line, wlien steer for them, f^ivin^,' the south side of Crane island a moderate berth, and passing out of Wasp channel, as before directed for entering it. If desired, pass into Wasp channel southward of Yellow island, between it and Low island (a small islet), thence northward of Nol) ish^t, and us before directed, between Crane and (Jlilf islands. There is another passage into Wasp channel southward of ('lill' island, between it and Neck point, the remarkable western o.xtreme of Shaw island. The lireadth between them is one cable, but there is a patch of 4 fathoms, with kelp on it, in the centre »d" the jiassage. If taking this channel there is a reef Ijing S.W. \ S., and o.xtending more than a (quarter of a mile from the south-west end of Olill" island ; this reef is sometimes covered. Those two latter passa.res are llu' shortest into Wasj) channel for Vessels from the southward. Tho oyo will bo found the best guide ; a good look-out is vocessary, and to a stoam-vessol there is no dilliculty. Tidal streams. — Vhe Hood stream sets west in the eastern entranc(( of Wasp channel, but in tho western entrance the Hood from tho Mitldle chaniud jtartiallj' sots eastward, anil causes some ripplings among the islands, which may be mistaken for shoal water. Norttl passag'e.— This clear deep channel leading to Deer harbour, tlu' westernmost port in Orcas island, is between Stoop point and reef island. It is neaiiy a«iuartt'r of a mile wide, and the danger to avoid is the reef oil" tiie west side of the latter island. A patch of 2 fathoms lies nearly one cable S.W. by W. from the north-west point of Hrown island. ORCAS ISLAND is the most extensive in Ilaro archipelago, and contains tho tinost harbours. It is mountainous and in most parts thickly wooded, altho'.igh in tho valleys there is a consid-.^able .*yv ohart, No. 2,08'J. Ohap. IV.] Wasp channel.— dkbr hauiiouu. m portion of hiiul iiviiiliibU' for af^riruihinil purposoH, utid iKirtiiilly clear of timber. Its Houtliorn Hiili^ in rtinj^ularly indoiitetl by iloop sountls, which in some places aimortt divide the iali'Tiu ; this in invrticularly the case in the Eirtt sound, s.'parate I only from Georf,'ia strait by a low neck of land one mile across. On the eastern si le of this sound mount Con.stitution rises to an elevation of 2,r.'() feet, wooded to its summit. On tlm west side is the Turtle back, a lonj,' wooded ran),'e l,t)i>l) feet hi,!,'h, and west of it, risin-,' immediately over the nea, is the Hin;,'ular bare-top cone known as Orcasnob, a remarkable object when seen either from the north or south. Deer harbour and We.st and East .sounds are on the south side of tlie island ; but on the western and northern sides there is no convenient anchorage. A vessel might droj) an anchor, if necc8.sary, southward of tlie Hill of Orcas (a remarkable projecting bare point, with a nob on its extreme), where 12 fathoms will be found within one cable of dm shore ; a small vessel might also anchor in 4^ fathoms, just inside Freeman islet, u small islet in the bay two-thirds of a mile southward of the Hill. The north coast is precipitous, excejjt between the Hill and Thompson point, a distance of 2i miles; here occurs the low laml at the head of East sound, and the i)oints are shelving, with large boulder stones extending some distance oil" ; immediately oil this part of the coast is Parker reef. Thompson point is bare and clifTy ; from it the coast forms a hligiit curve easterly to l/.iwrenee p )int, dislant iJ mile.s. Lawrence point, the sloping termination of the high range of mount Constitution, is the eastern extreme of Orcas island ; on its northern side it is a steep and almost perpendicular olid', and from it the coast turns abruptly souihwartl, forming the western sitle of lio.sjirio strait. ( y: DEER HARBOUR, the westt-nnno.st of the three jtorts of Orcas island, is conveniently enl( n'd from the Middle channel by North passage, or between the latter and Hrown islan<l. The harbour is one mile long in a norih and south direction, and about the same breadth at its southern end ; it narrows, however, rapidly, and terminates in a shoal creek, and fresh water streams fed from a lake. Fawn islet Tub oft' the steep clifly shore of the west side of the harbour. lieo uhart, No. 2,68U. r r, Vi > i* 151 haho AnciiiPELAoo, midjjlk channel. [CImi). IV. IWdwofii Fiiwn iwlyt hiuI the woHttTii Hhore i.s u jKiHrtii^o one culilc \vl<lo with 1> t'athoniH. A reef extt^iuls from the north m\e of Cmne iHhinil ; if working' u|) the liarhour, do not HtanU ho far eantwanl aH to Hhiit in the i-aHl end of Clitr island behind the wewt end of Cmne iHhmd ; tliirt will k-ad nutre than one eahh' clear of the reef. Anchorage. — A eonvenlent berth iw in 7 fatliomn, innd, half-way between Kawn iHlet and the eaHtern Hhore, or a .snnt,' anchorage, in .') fatlioniH, will ])e fonnd a qnarter of a mile northward of the iwlet. WEST ORCAS SOUND may be entered from Miihlle channel, elthi'r by Wasp or Uitri;,dit pasHaf^'eH already deseribed (hcc l)a^'e 14<»), or from lionario strait by eitlier of the Obstruction passes {hi'c pajfe 1-1*.)). Ilaviiif,' entered by Wasp paflsa;,'e, cleared I'assii^'e rock, ami beinj? »»ll' ]5roken point, West sound will be (tpen N.W. \ N, for more than 2 miles, with Orcas nob immediately over the head of it. The sound is about three-quurterH of ii mile broad, with depths of from 10 to It) fathoms. Anchorag'e may be had in any i)art above Double islands, which lie close oir its western shore, half a mile N.W. from l?roken point, but thti snuggest anchonigo, and the best for vessole intending to make any stay, is either in White Heach bay, on the eastern shore, or in Massacre bay at the north-west head of the sounil. There is good anchonige in I) fathoms, with Sheep islet bearing N.E. i N. Massacre bay is the continuation of the head of West sound, l)ctwcen llaula and Indian points, and the anchorage is nearly one mile above White Heach bay. Harbour rock, covering at one-third Hood, lies almost in the centre of the Ixiy, between the two entrance points, one-third of a mile W. | S. from Ilaida point ; it may be passed on either side in a depth of 9 fathoms. If to the eastward, Ilaida point should be kv\)t Avithin U cables ; if to the westward, the eastern did'y part of Urokeii point, and the eastern side (»f Double islands kept in line bearing S.K. [, S., leads nearly one cable westward (»f the r»)ck ; when Indian point bears South, good anehoragi- will be found in the centre of the bay in <S fathoms, mud bottom. HARNEY CHANNEL, between Orcas and Shaw islands, con- nects the West and East sounds of Orcas. It commences at Broken Sac chuil, Nu. 2,()bl*. . I Chap. IV.] ORCAH HOUND. m point, jiml takt'fl iin oantrrly tlircction for ',\ milt-H, when it »'ntt<M rprij^ht cliannt'I between Foster and Haukiii ixiintH ; tlie former Ik a low Hlopin^^ green point, the Houthern termination of the peninHuhi which Hepanites the two Honnd.s ; tlie hitter iH the eastern hhif!" woo(1«mI point of Sliaw irtiand. The lU'pth of water in this channel varies from 20 to ItO fathoms, and its avera/^'e Itreiidtii is half a mile, though it narrows for a short distance ahout its centre tu a (quarter uf a mile. The north side of Harney channel is a series of small lnys with shingle beaches, and there is a deep covo two-thirds of a mile west of Foster i)oint ; just westward of this cove, and N.W. from llankin point, is a rocky patch which lies more than one jublo oil" shore, and covers at half tlood. Camp cove is immediately northwanl of Foster point ; it is a convenient cove for boats, or a sm;dl vessel might anehov tlu're in ti fathoms ; there is a good stream of fresh water running into it. Shagr rook, also called High Water rock, lies more than one cable from the shore, half a mile north-eastward from Foster jtoint ; it is awash at high water, and iti marked by an iron spindle sur- mounted by a white barrel. Blind bay is on the s(»uth shore, midway between Uroken and Hankin })oints. A small round islet partially wooded lies in the centre of the entrance, and a reef covering at high water extends from its western point, almost choking the entrance on that side, but leaving a narrow ]);issage close to the islet ; a rock covering at a quarter tUtod also lies oil' the esistern side of the islet, leaving a channel of .') fathoms almost equally narrow on that side, so that the biiy is only eligible for coasters, which should keep the island close aboard when entering ; the eastern wide is the better. Anchorage in 4 or f) fathoms may be h;id with the islet bearing N.N.W., distant '2 cables. EAST ORCAS SOUND. -Knt. Tin- this suimd by I'pri-dit channel, or through llu^ Wasp passagi'S and Harney clianiul, w Inn abreast Upright hill, its entrance will be easily made out. H' by the OI)Struction passes, as soon as a vessel is at their western entrance, the whole length of the sound will be open bearing N.W. ), W. ; remarkable conical hills, over 1,000 feet high, rise on both sides of See ohurt, No. 2,C»1*. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I If 1^ i^ ' ui lino Li I. ,, 1.8 1.25 1.4 1.6 M 6" — ► Hiotographic Sciences Corporation 33 WkST MAIN STRICT WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) e '2-4503 vl^ ^^^^4 <^ C/x 156 HARO ARCHIPELAGO, MIDDLE CHANNEL. [Chiip. IV. Tho tho entrunc.!, wliich is between Diainoud au»l Stockade points general depth ol' watjr in the sound ia 15 fathoms. StOCkadG bay, on the eastern side of the entrance to the sound, nearly one mile North of Stockade point (the north-western entrance i:oint of North Obstruction pass) affords anchv;rage in H fathoms, at about 3 cables from the shore ; with a strong S.W. wind some swell sets into this anchorage ; there is a good stream of fresh water running into the bay. Green bank, on the western side, immediately opposite Stockade bay, is a bank of sand extending half-way across the sound ; on it there are depths of from 5 to {) fathoms, with one patch of i fathoms, and a vessel might anchor on it if necessary, as btiing more convenient than the deep water immediately off it. The best anchorage is in (5 fathoms ut half a mile North of Diamond point, with a small green islet, which liep just off a white shell beach, bearing West, distant about i cables. Cascade bay, on the eastern side of the sound, 2 miles N.W. of Stockade bay, is formed by a small hook of land facing the S.E. Anchorage may be had at 1^ cables from the beach in 10 fathoms ; but it would not be a desirable place with a south-easterly wind. A large stream falls by a cascade into the above bay, and it would be a convenient place at which to water a ship. Fishiag' and Ship bays. — Fishing bay, the westernmost of the two bays at the head of the sound, has good anchorage in 10 fathoms, with Arbutas point, the cliffy extreme of the jutting peninsula before nu'ntioned, bearing N.E., midway between it and the west Bide of the sound. Ship bay, eastward of Arbutus point, runs off shoal for 2 cables, or nearly to the extreme of the point ; but it affords good shelter, perhaps better than Fishing bay. There is good anchorage in 9 fathoms, mud bottom, with Arbutus point bearing W, by N., distant 3 cables. See chart, No. 2,681). I i If 157 CHAPTER V. ROSARIO STRAIT AND SHORES OF GEORGIA STRAIT. Varialum 22^ to 2;r Kust, in 180S. ROSARIO STRAIT is the easternmost and ono of the principal channels leading from Juan de Fnca strait into that of (Jeorgia. Its southern entrance is betwoen Lop 3Z and Fidalgo islands, an.l from thence its general direction is from N.N.W. to N.W. for 2;") miles, when it enters the latter strait. Its western shores are formed by Lopez, Decatur, Blakidy, and Orcas islands ; its eastern by Fidalgo, Cypress, Sinclair, and Lummi islands, as well as by the mainland.* Rosario strait has several smiller channels which branch eastward, and lead between islands to the United States settlements in Belling- ham b.xy, or by a more circuitous route into Georgia strait ; among the prinoipil of these chmnels are Guemes, Bellingliam, and Lummi. T'lo greatest bre.i Ith of the strait is ') miles at its southern entrance ; the narrowest is about the centre, between Blakely and Cypress islands, where it is less than 1^ miles ; the depth varies from 25 to 45 fathoms, occasionally deeper. The principal dingers are the Bird and B^dle rocks, which lie almost in the centre of the strait, i miles within the southern entrance. There arj several anchorages avail ible for vessels delayed by the tides or other causes ; Davis bay on the eastern side of Lopez island, 3 miles within the southern entrance ; Burrows bay, immediately opposite it under mount Krie o.i the west side of Fidalgo islan 1 ; Ship harbjur or Guomes ch.in.i.d ; and Strawberry bay, on the western side of Cypress islind, are th.^ principal. Buoys. — A red nun buoy marks the north-east extreme of the i^hoal extending from Shannon or Ship point. Buoys are ils) uDored to mirk the shoal ext'uding from Frances point and the south end of the rocky patch betw^>en that point and Eliza island. j!i • St* Admiralty chart :— Ilaro and Rosario straits, No. 2,68J> ; scale, vi = 0*5 inches. : 15S UOSARIO STRAIT. [Chap. V. ThoHO entorinf? Jnan do Fuca strait, and bound to any of the ports of I'uget sound, or up Rosario strait, oithor by day or night, should make New Dungjuess light, which is (59 miles from the light at Talitosh islantl (wv; p. 27), and then Smith or T^lunt island. Tidal StreaolS. — The stnMiu-; in Uosario strait ai'e strung, from 3 to 7 knots in the narower parts. SMITH or BLUNT ISLAND lies almost in the centre of the entcrn end of Jum d.' Fiio.i sti-ait, 1:5 miles N.N.K. J, K. from New Dungeness, and (! miles South from the entrance of Rosario sti-ait. It is about lialf a mile in Irngth, clifFy at its western end, and ;')() feet high ; a large kelp patch extends 1.', miles from the western cxlri'ine, whicli sliould be avoided ; therc^ are (5 fathoms on its outer (ulge. From the eastern end of the island, which is low, a sand spit extends three-quarters of a mile N.E., partially covi^ed at high water ; on the north side of this spit there is anchorage in 5 fathoms, sandy bottom, about half a mile from the shore, but no vessel should lie here with any appearance of bad weather. Beacon. — A beacon has been erected on Minor island, at the extremitj' of the spit extending from the eastern end of Smith or Blunt island. LIGHT. —On the summit of Smith or Blunt island, near the west end, is a lighthouse painted white, with a black lantern, from which, at an elevation of DO feet above the sea, is exhibited a Jlaaliing white light every half minute, visible in clear weather from a distance of 15 miles. Tidal stream. — The ebb stream here, as in the narrower straits, runs from 2 to 2.t hours after low water. Directions. — Having made Smith island, which those bound from sea up Rosario channels should do on about a N.E. \, E. bearing, it may be passed on either side ; but to the northward appears most convenient. When Dungeness lighthouse bears S. by W. keep it on that bearing, astern, steering N. by E., which leads midway between Smith island and the Fonte bank, lying <S miles W. }j S. from it, on which the least water yet found is )U fathoms. When the lighthouse on Smith island bears E. by S. a vessel will be northward of the patch, and a course may be steered for .S»e oki. , Wo. 2,689. Chap, v.] SMITH ISLAND.— DAVIDSON ROCK. 159 the entrance of the strait, which, however, shouKl not be entered at night, until there is a liyht on Bir.l or Ik'ilo rocks, unless by those perfectly actjuaintod with the n;ivigalion, :ind the state of the tide. If passintrsouthwiinl of Smith island, rem 'nib 'r to avuid Partridj^'e bank, the least water on which, '2[ fathoms, is :>.', miles W. by N. .\ N. from Partridge i>oint. Those from the southern parts of Vancouver island, bound up Rosario strait, sliould pass nortliward of Hmitli island, avoiding Salmon bank, with 10 feet over it, o.f tiie soutli end of San .Juan, and Davidson rock olf Colville island. I\[ount Erie (on Fidalgo island) in line: with Jennis ])!>iiit, bearing X.K. by K. \ K., leads Ij miles South of the former, ami it is not reijomineiided to pass the southern side of Lopez island at less than one mile distant, which will ensure clearing ihe latter ; moreover, llio coast is rocky, and the Hood stream sets on to it. There are several indei^tations, with sandy beaches, on the south side of Lopez, wliicii, although offering shelter for boats, are not recomnionded as anchorages for vessels. Cape Oolville, or Watmouth head, the south-eastern extreme of Lopez island, is the western entrance point of Rosirio strait ; Watmouth hill, flat-tojjped, and about l.')() feet high, rises immeiliatidy over it. Oolville island, small, and bare of trees, about 40 feet high, lies one mile S.S.W. from the cape ; close to the cape, and appearing from most points of view a part of it, is Castle island, a high precipitous rock. Entering the strait, Colville island should be given a berth of one mile. Davidson rook, on which is a depth of 4 feet, and occasionally uncovering at low springs, lies a little more than I? cables East from the east end of Colville islanl, and nearly one mile South from the caps itself; kdp grows ab )ut the rock, but the patch is so small that it is dilUcalt to mike out. A bl lok can buoy. No. 1, in 2(1 feet, marks Davidson rock. Kellett island, or cape St. Marj', kept open of the extreme of cape Colville, beiring N.N.W., lea Is half a mile eastward of the rock, and Eagle point (San Juan) kept open of the south end of Lopez island, bearing W. ] N., leads one mile southward of it. See chart, No. 2,689. n 160 ROSARIO STRAIT. [Chap. V. Kellett island is a small tlat-topped islet, covered with grass. lying immediately northward, and close off the low extreni'j of cape Colville. Cape St. Mary, the next point northward of cape Colville, and a little more than one mile from it, forms the southern point of Davis bay. Kellett or Hulah ledge, with one fathom on it, and marked by kelp, lies 3 cables N.E. by N. from cape St. Mary ; there is a deep passage between it and the cape. When passing outside it, give the cape a berth of over half a mile. Davis bay, also called Shoal bay, affords good and convenient anchorage in moderate depths. After rounding Kellett ledge, stand westward into the bay, and anchor in fathoms, mud bottom, a little more than half a mile from the shore, with capo St. Mary bearing S.E. by S. ; inside this the water shoals rather suddenly to 2^ and 3 fathoms. A kelp patch, on which there is shoal water, lies one mile N. by W. from the cape. There is anchorage in from 4 to 8 fathoms anywhere within one mile of the east coast of Lopez and Decatur islands, from a little northward of cape St, Mary, as far north as the white cliff of Decatur island, avoiding the kelp patches just mentioned, or while the Bird rock bears anything northward of East, and but little tide will be felt. With the Maury passage open, bearing West, there is good anchorage, at from half a mile to one mile from the shore, in from 6 to 8 fathoms. BURROWS BAY, on the eastern side of the entrance to Rosario strait, is well marked by mount Erie, a remarkable conical hill, rising 1,300 feet immediately over it, at one mile from the coast. The bay is sheltered from westerly and south-westerly winds by Burrows and Allan islands, and affords good anchorage to vessels wind or tide bound. LIGHT. — A fixed white light is exhibited from the end of the wharf in Burrows bay. Williamson rock, 22 feet above high water, lies in the southern entrance of the bay, half a mile south of Allan island. ^■1 i See ohart, No. 2,680. i Chap, v.] BUBROWS BAY.— DECEPTION PASS. ir.1 good re. in losano rising |ie bay fa and Ir tide )f the Lthern Dennis rock. — There is a deep channel half ii milt wide between Williamson rock and Allan ishmd, but those taking it. or working up westward of the latter island, must avoid Dennis rock, which has 2 feet on it at low water and rarely uncovers. It lies nearly (5 cables N.W. by W. from Williamson rock, and the same distance W.S.W. from the south end of Allan island. Anchoragre may be hafl in <» fathoms, with the passage between Barrows and Allan islands open, l)earin<,' W.H.W., half a mile from Young island ; but the most sheltered anchorage is in 12 fathoms at the north head of the bay, half a mile from the eastern shore of Burrows island, with tlie passagi' shut in, and Young islaml liearing S. l)y W. .', W. : if, however, only a temporary anchorage is desired, the former will be found the most convenient. Directions. — The best entratice, which is one mile wide, is eastward of Williamson rock, b«^tween it and Fidalgo island. The eastern shore of the liay is shoal for ;j cables off the beach, and in one spot a bouhler, awash at low water, lies nearly 4 cables otl". and nearly l.V miles E. by N. h N. from the south point of Allan island. Those from the northward may enter Burrows bay by the passage northward of Burrows island, or between the latter and Allan island ; they are about an equal breadth, a little over 2 cables wide at their narrowest part, and lie nearly east and west ; the latter is the straighter. Tidal streams. — The ebb stream sets to the eastward into both passages, at the rate of 3 to 4 knots during springs. DECEPTION PASS.— At 2 miles southward of the .south entrance to Burrows bay is a narrow channel separating Fidalgo from Whidbey island, and communicating with Admiralty inlet and Puget sound ; but it is only eligible for such small vessels or steamers commanded by those well acquainted with the locality. The tidal streams set through it with great velocity. LIGHT. — A Ji.ird u-hUr ligiit is exhil)ited from the south-west extreme of Fidalg<i island. LawSOn reef, on which there is a depth of 2^,' fathoms, is a ledge of small extent lying 1 ,';, miles S.W. by W. ), W. from the West point of Deception island at th<' entrance to Deception i)ass. A hiU Sff rhart. \o. '2.r.S!l. SO 11948 : 3 D i ir.2 ROSA H TO STRAIT. [Chap. V t/uiiif, piiintcd red tvnd lilack in horizontal strii^'S, marks the pant'.M'n wide of the reef. Bird rock, lyinj? almost in the centre of l^fsario strait, nearly 4 miles N. V > from cape Co^ville, is composed of three detached rocks close tofjether, the southernmost beinj; the larjjest, and ^0 feet above high water. There is deep water closer to it, hut on account of the strong tidal streams, sailing-vessels working uit or down, paiticn- larly during light winds, are recommended to give it a berth of half a mile. There is an equally good passage on either side of the rock ; that to the eastward is the wider (2 miles across) ; to the westward it is one mile wide, with somewhat less tide. Hy taking the lattt'i- channel with a leading wind, a stranger will more easily avoid Belle rock ; i)assing Bird rock at a convenient distance, steer just outside, or to the eastward of James island, until the i)assage l)etween fTuemes and Fidalgo islands is open. Belle rock, the most serious danger in lht> Hosario strait, oidy uncovers near low water, and the tidal streams set over it from 2 to .') knots. It lies (! cables N. l>y ¥,. | E. from the Bird rock, and in the passage between them are dei)ths of <S to 2(1 fatlioms. Seamen, however, are recommended not to pass between them exce})t in cases of necessity. The rock is marked on its north-west side by a black can-shaped buoy. Belle rock is easily avoided by day ; if passing to the eastward of it, keep LawTcnce point, (the eastern ])oijit of Orcas island), in line with Tide point (tlie western extreme of Cypress island), bearing N.N.W., which will lead half a mile clear of it ; wlien the passage between Guemes and Fidalgo islands is just open, a vessel will be more than one mile to the northward of it. If taking the channel westw^ird of Bird rock, keep that rock Wv 11 eastward of cape Colville until fruemes channel is open. The great danger of the Belle rock to a sailing-vessel is being left with a light wind in the centre of the strait, as the water is dee]> to ex])ec1 an anchor holding in so strong a tideway. James island, almost divided in the centre, is a remarkable saddle island with a double summit, 2o() feet high, lying close oft" the east side of Decatur island. »•/• chart. No. 2,689. i Chap, v.] DRC'RPTTON PASS.— BKLLTNGHAM CHANNKh. \h:\ in iv a (1 of line u-ini? 1 hv w. 11 ijji'eal light •1 an ablo the White and Black rooks are tlirue-quarterri of ii mi If ;4,art. and lie off the nouth-east coast of lihikely island. White rock, tin southernmost, is Id feet above high water and a little more than a tiuarter of a mile from the shore at the eastern entrance of Thatcher passage. Black rock, 14 feet high, lies three-quarters of a mile N.K. by X. from White rock, and half a mile from Blakely island ; there is a deep channel between these rocks, as als»» between them and Blakely island. An iron perch, "20 feet high, surmounted liy a barrel, painted black and white in horizontal stripes, stands on the highest part of the rock. BELLINGHAM CHANNEL, between Guemes and Cypress islands, is al)out iU miles long and three-quarters of a mile wide in its narrowest part, between East point and Guemes island. Abreast the northern end of Guemes island, which is ?. steep IduflC named Clark point and on the western side of the channel, are several small, high, wooded islets, named the Cone islets. Should the wind be light and the tide flood, pass close to Clark point to avoid being set past Sinclair island. Guemes Ohannel, south of Guemes island, leads into Padilla bay and eastward of the island to Bellingham bay. At the western entrance, ou the southern shore, is Ship harbour. City of Seattle rock, with a least depth of '.) feet, lies on the south side of the channel. A red nun buoy, in 14 feet, lies 155 yards E.S.E. of the rock, with the south point of Guemes island X.W. by W. i W., and the wharf at Anacortes N.E. § N. LIGHT. — A /i.red whUe light is exhibited on March point, Fidalgo bay. Directions. — With strong flood tide and clear weather vessels pass through Guemes channel instead of through Bellingham channel. The usual route is through Bellingliam channel and northward of Vendovi island. With ebb tide small vessels use Hale passage. With flood tide pass between Viti rocks and Carter jioint, then across to the north- ward of Orcas island, passing between the island and i'arker reef. tkr chart. No. 2,ri89. so 11948 L2 r 1 1 , i I ', ^ • i I « } i •■ i " ■I t I t'rt UOSAUK/ STRAIT. [rillil.. V BELLINQHAM BAY.— 'Llw >,'ciit ml ilirt'c-ii<»n of this hay is iiurfli anil soiitli ; it is 4 miles in widtii and U inilt-s lniii,', inflndin*,' t li(! hroad flats at cither end. In the north-eastern eorner of the bay are the vilhifjes Bellinj,'hain, Selione, and Whateoni. 'I'lu're are coal mines near these villajjfes, hut the amount of eoal is not f^reat and the quality is poor. Half a mile from the shore thiu-e is j,'ood anehorau'e in 4 fathoms, soft sticky bottom. Tlndcrlyin-j: this soft liottom there is a stratum of sandstone, which i)revents the anchor from holding, and ves.selri draj? with south-easters, which bl<tw stivtnudy u]) the bay and raise a rouf,'h sea. A l)ouIder, with 8 feet over it, lies about midway between France's point and Eliza island A n-d ai;d i)hi('k buoy is mooreil near its southern edf?e. A buoy, coloured black and red in horizontal stripes, moored in IH feet about one c!il)le oH" shore, marks the position of Starr rock, situated l/„ miles S. l»y W. from the mouth of Whatcom creek. There is a depth of 4 feet over the rock. LIGHT. — \Ji.mf ir/iitf li^ht is exhibited on the cdtfe of the bluff at William point. CYPRESS ISLAND, north-westAvard of Fidal^'o, forms a ])ortion of the eastern side of Rosario strait. It is 4 miles loiif,'. by about :2 in bi'eadth, and 1,52.') feet high, it is thickly wooded with pine, and white cedar trees ; on its northern extreme, a remarkable bare, rocky cone rises immediately over the sea to 720 feet. A reef of boulder stones, some of which uncover, with kelp jyrowiny' about them, extends half a mile oft' Reef jioint, the south-wost point of the island ; the outer boulder covers at lialf flood : it is marked by a black buoy. lietween Cypress and Blakcly islands is the narrowest pirt of llosario strait, being 1.^ miles across, and here the tidal streams during s^ 'ings occasionally run between (> and 7 knots. Strawberry bay, on the western side of Cypress island, will be known by the small island of the same name, which lies immediatedy otf it, l.j miles N.W. from Heef point, and protects the l)ay from the westward ; it is rather a confined anchorage, and at certain times of tide w<»uld be difficult of entrance to a sailing-vessel. 'riif bay is exposed to 8.S.H winds, which, however, do not fre- t|iieniiy i)low : from S.E. it is sludtered, and there is no reason to Sf<' clmrt. \o 2.r.s>,i i Chap. V.J UKLMNCHAM IIA Y. -SISCI, A I U ISI.WI). I (..J >ut riui l»'iy ti w ll'iv to (iouht l)iM that, with ^'ood i,'r(»im(l tackh', a \fsst'l woiihl i'i<le oiu tm,\ ;!alf. ThtTi' is a pasfsa^'f (M" Id fatlioiiirt imrthwafd ht'twcfii Straw- Iti'iTV and ("ypr('.>*s irthiiitls ; ami in the t-vciit of j)artiii^' or Hlijtpiiij;, run throii^'h this pas.saj,H', and talvi- shelttT in Hiirhor Si'niiahinoo l«iys. In a sailiu^'-vi'ssfi do not attempt lo enter tlu' l)ay durinj,"- the strt'nf.'th ol' ilu' tidi-, iinK-ss witli a conunandinj,'' l>rt'»'Zt', and rt'nifinlu'r that tlie ti(U'S set with trrrat sin-nyth aj^'ainst tlie points ol' Strawherry island ; it was rt'inaikcil that, while the ehh was ninniii),' stronf.'ly in Uosario strait, which it eontiiuies to do for 21 hours after low wator, a stream of Hood set to tlu' northward throii;;h Straw- herry hay, as soon as it was h>w water hy the shore. Anchor alioiit '.') cables from the aandy bight of the bay, with the north bluff of Strawberry islaml bearing W.X.W., and the south poitit of this island S.W. by IS., this is the best berth, in 7 fathoms, good holding ground, and nearly out of the tide, which sets with considerable strength inside Strawberry island. There is a belt of flat marsh-land in Strawberry bay, through which several streams of good water run from the mountains. Rock islet, a small rounil islet covered with trees, lying nearly '2 cables northward oi' the north eiid of Typress island, has its shores scattered with large bonldei- stones. There is a passage of 9 fathoms water between it and Cypress island ; I)ut the ebb stream sets with j^ioat strength to the southward, and. indeed, close round the wewtern points of the latter island. Cypress reef, lying otie-third of a mile W. I S. from Hock islet, is a dangerous rocky patch, covering at half flood, with kelp growing about it. James island kept open of Tide |)oint, the west point of Cypress island, hearing S. -J K., leads westward of the reef. SINCLAIR ISLAND, ihickly wooded, and comparatively low, lies north-east WMril of (Cypress island, with a ileep passage, of nearly one mile wide, between them, leading to Bellingham channel. Shelving rocks project a short distance ott' its western shores. Boulder or Panama reef, u dangerous shoal, extends nearly half a mile in a W.N.W. direction off the north-west extreme of Sinclair island, some parts of it uncovering at half tide ; a large boulder stands on the inner part of the reef. Great quantities of St'f- chart. Nil. -'.i>8'.'. I 1 i 1 II 'I K I i ' 1. ,t i il M It ici; KOHARIO STRAIT. [(.'hup. V. kelp ^'^^^v in ihe lU'iKiil'oiirhond, hut it in .sonu'tiiucrt rim mitliT by the tide or concwilotl l)y the ripple ; tlicrc art- tl fathoinn t'lorte to the odi^o of tho kelp. By keeping,' CyprenH cone oju'ii wt-stwiird of Uoi-k islet, or the Htniit iM^tweeii CypresH luid HIakeij isliiiids well open, leaiU weritw.ird of this reef. A red nun buoy in moored nortiiwiird of the reef. PeapodS aro two HnudI rocky islets, bare of trees, lyiu),' half a mile from tlie \\«'stcni shore of Kosario strait, and from 1| to nearly 2 miles southward from Lawrence ])oint. They are three-(|uarters of a mile apart in a N.X.K and S.S.W. direction, the northernmost ])einf,' tin' hirj,'er and hi«,'lier. A little westward of a line drawn between them is a rock which just covers at hijfh water. Metwfeen I'eapod islets and Obstruction pass, there is consiilenibiy less tide than in the main stream of the stiiiit, and if necessary a vessel may drop anchor within half a mile of (lu shore iu about 16 fathoma. LawrenCB point, the eastern extreme of Orcas, is a louj; sloping; point, the termination of the ridge of mount (Constitution ; imme- diately on its uorth sith' it rises in high, almost perpendicular cliffs, and trends westward, falling back for l\ miles in a somewhat deep bight, which is rocky, a k' is unsheltered. Anchorage may be had, if necessary, on the eastern side of Rosario strait, within one mile of the shore in 1") fathoms, between Sandy and Whitehorn points, northward of Lunmii island. Tidal streams. — After passing northward of Lawrence point, the ebb streaut sets to the eastward between Orcas and the small islands to the northward of it as well as to the S.p]. through the northei-n entrance of the strait : wdien in the vicinity of Alden bank, or about »S miles N.W. of Lawrence point, the strength of the streams sensibly decrease, and while eastward of a line between this bank and Roberts point, a vessel will be entirely out of the strong streams of the archipelago and of Georgia strait ; it is recommended iluring the ebb stream to work up on this shore. LUMMI ISLAND is S miles long and very narrow. (;)u its south-western side it is high and precipitous, a remarkable double mountain rising 1,5(50 feet abruptly from the sea ; a small high double i-ocky islet lies close off the shore, :\ miles from its southern ikr chart, No. i',<5)S'J, ('Imp. v.] Sr.NCl.Alll ISI.VNI).— MM.MI ISLAM). 1»H rio hit, Vclll the ,nk, mis ink mis fmt; its am lM)iMt ; I'lnil ground t'Xtciids tVom its iinrtli-ut'st pniiit ; ami at alxmt S caltlt's S.S.W. [, \V. t'iDiii ("lifter point, its s.Mitli-i'ast point, lies V^iti rock. A n-ef extomls .'» cables tnini this rock in an E. by S. din'ction. A r(»rl< witli a (Ifi)tli of \'l t'ect lies half a tiiile W.N.W, from Mi(lj,'K'y point, the north point of Ihi' ishmd. A nun buoy, with l)lack and red horizontal stripes, lies westwiiril «d' the rock. Kuinini bay opens north-east ward of Jjniiini island, and is backed by marshy ;,'r(tnnd. Into it by several months [innimi river empties. The main eiii ranee of the river in the north part of the bay ciin only be reaeh"d b\ boats at lii^di tide. Sanily point, the north entrance l>oint of the bay, is low and grassy with a few bnshes upon it. Lig'ht. — A fi.ird irhifr light is exhibited on Lummi point, thi- iioi'th-east extreme of the isl.md. Hale passage, east of hnmmi ishiiul, loinH'cts with Hellingham bay. The northern einraiiee to the piisstige, tl\n I'-cjuarters of ;i mile eastward of Midgley point, is btirreil 1>\ v lidge of 2] fathoms. Towiirds the southern entrance the spit an* tward of Frtincis point is marked by a ivd nun buoy, and ii rec! sjjar 1 uoy marks the spit exten ling south-east of Frances point. A shoal t>f '.t feet lies about midwiiy bi tween Frances point :'!i(l Eliza islantl, and is marked by a ivil and lilack horizontally striped buoy on the southern edgi'. Clark and Barnes islands are two small wooded islands, '2 miles N.W. from Lawrence point , two smaller iak-ts, the SiHters, ban- of trees, and a high rock lie immediately S.E. of Clark island. There is a narrow channel with a depth of :^(> fathoms between Clark and Harnes islands, which a vessel may take if necessary. The tidal streams set strongly about the Sisters, and the I)e8t and most direct channel is between Clark and Lummi islands. When taking this cluuuiel the north point of Lummi island should not be ap])roached within one mile, as shoal and bnjkeii ground extends for some distance otl it : Sinclair ishmd kept jnst open westward of the n(n'th-west point of Lummi island leads westward of this foul grounil in 15 fathoms, and when the east end of Matia island, or Putfin islet close off it, is in line witli the north-west point (Bill of Orcas) bearing S.W. | W., a vessel will be northward of it. Matia island, o miles W.N.W. 'rom Clark island, is one mile in length east and west, moderately high and wooded, and has uomo Hee chart, No. 2,<i8'J. I (is HOHAKIO HTHAIT. [Chap. V. i covert oil ilrt rtoiitheru s'kU' iittlordiiig rthelter tor boatH ; close ott" it« east point irt PalKii islet, and exteiuling a short distance eaatward of the islet is a flat rock which covers. Those bound throuiJ^h Rosario strait are recomnieudeil to pass eastward of Matia. ALDEN BANK, 3 miles in extent north and south, one mile east and west, lies in the centre of the northern entrance of Rosario strait : its Honthern limit is 2 miles North of Matia island. The ilepth on this bank varies from '2\ to 7 fatiionis, the bottom is in some parts rocky, with patches of kelp ;,'rowing on it ; in other parts it is sandy, and oilers a convenient anchora|,'e when Itecalmed or waiting for tide. It tm^uently happens that having passed north- ward between East point and Patos island, a vessel meets the ebb stream, and is carried to the eastward ; in such a case it would be desirable to anchor in 7 or S fathoms on Alden bank, and thus prevent being set down Rosario strait. A can buoy, painted red anil black in horizontal stripes, is iiiooretl near the shoalest part of the bank. Those passing uj) or down are recommendecl to pass on the eastern side of the bank. Whitehorn point is a remarkal)le bold bluff about 150 feet high, its face showing as a steep white clay cliff. It is the southern point of Birch bay, aiul is '.• miles N.W. from the north point of Lummi island. BIRCH BAY is between Whitehorn point anil Birch point or South bluff": the latter, which is a nu)der<itely high rounding point, forms the north entrance point of the bay ; some large boulder stones stand a short distance off it, and should not be roiiniled al a less distance ilian half a mile. The bay trends N.E. for 2}j miles, and is nearly 2 miles wide at one mile inside the entrance points ; the head of the bay dries off a considerable distance at low water, and the 3 fathom line extends 1^ miles off' shoi-e in the centre of the bay ; it is open to winds from 8.8. W. to West. The holding ground is good, and with 8. E. gales it affords excellent shelter. A good berth is, in 4 fathoms, with Whitehorn point bearing South, distant one mile ; the water shoals gradually from 14 fathoms at one mile off to 6 fathoms betweeu the entrance points ; inside this line, 4 fathoms only will be found for a further distance of one mile towards the head of the bay. Nrr chart. No. ;M>89. Cliiii). v.] ALDEN BANK. — DHAYTOX HARBOUR. J tilt 1 SEMIAHMOO BAY, between South and North bluffy, affords Huod auchoni^e in from (> to 8 fathoms, at about li to 2 miles outside Drayton harbour entrance ; a tjooil berth is iu (> fathoms, mud bottom, with South bluff bearing S. by E., and Tongue point bearing K. by X. This is always good anchorage, unless with a heavy S.W. gale, when vessels might take shelter in Drayton liarbour.* Fishing stakes fringe the shore, some extend into 11 fathoms and ai-e marked by a iv/ii/e light. An iron buoy lies with Seniiahm(»o post light X. by K., distant one-third of a mile. LIGHT. — X ticed rid light is exhibited on a cluster of piles in i\ feet water close to the steep sand bank, in the turn of the channel leading to Blaine. Supplies. — Wild fowl frequent this anchonigo in considerable numbers during the winter months. DRAYTON HARBOUR, at :}J, miles X. by H. from South Iduff, is formed l)y a remarkable b>w narrow spit over one mile long. The spit is covered with grass and drift timber, and a few pine trees grow on it.* Directions. — Outside Tongue spit a Ijank extends a considerable ilistance, do not approach tlie spit within three-quarters of a mile until its extreme point bears E. \ X., when it may l)e steered for and passed close-to. There is a depth of t fathoms at low water, in the fairway, at three-quarters of a mile outside the entrance ; the channel is narrow, and no one unac({uainted with the locality should enter before placing boats or poles on the edges of the shoals ; when within, it opens into a cunsiderable sheet of water, but it is for the most part shoal. Anchorage. — The anchorage is in from 7 to 10 fathoms ; it is [)erfectl\ sheltereil, and affords room for .'i or 4 large vessels, as well as sever..l small ones, ami on the inside of the spit a vessel might be beached for repairs. The only landing at low water is at the spit end, which is steep-to. Tidea. — It is high water, full and change, at Drayton harbour at 2h. p m. ; springs range 14 feet. * >'''• Adiniraity plan of Spinialimoo hay and Drayton harbour, Xo. 2.t>V7 ; loale, III = 4 iuolios. 170 ROHARIO STRAIT. [Chap. V, ii 'i i BOUNDARY BAY is lirtwrcn liobcrts poim on the west, and Nortli hlntt" or Kwo mais point (»n the east, which beai' S,W. \ S. and N.K. !, X. from eucli other, and are 7 niih's apart. 'Hhv hay extends i)i a northerly direction for nearly 7 niiles, and is only separated from the south bank of Ki-aser river by a low delta n niiles across, intersected by streams ami swamps ; it is very shallow and dries oft" '^ miles at low water, the ed^e of the bank in ;} fathoms "Water, extends 4?, miles off the whole of the north shore of the bay. Do not stand so far northward as to l)rin<,'' the whiti' bluH' of Roberts point to bear southward of S.W. by W. Fishinfj; stakes frin^'e the shore, some extend into 11 fathoms, and are marked by ;i ir/ii/i' li>,dit. Roberts point is the tei-mination of a remarkable promontory which stretches southerly from the ilelia of Kraser rivei- ; the eastern pttint of the promontoi-y is a remai-kable white diti, :2(M» feet hij^h, its summit crowned with trees: from it the land jjriailually falls west- wanl an<l terminates in Kol)erts spit, a low shingle point, within which is a small sjjace of level clear laml. From the spit the coast tivnds X.N.W. with blutl' shores of moderate height for '.)l miles, when it merges into the swampy delta of the Fraser. Fi'om most points of view, and particularly from the southward, Uoberts i)oint i)resents the api)eanmce of an islam 1 ; shoal water and rocky irregular bottom, on which kelp grows in summer, extends for more than one mile E.S.E. from the point, and it is recommended to give it a good berth. Boundary mark.— There is a granite monument :2.') feet high erected on the summit of the Boundary blufl, which is oidy just visible from the anchorage on account of the trees ; it marks the boundary between the British and United States possessions, or the lyth parallel of north latitude. Anohoragre will be found on either sitle of the promontory ; eastward in '.• fathoms, sandy bottom, with the extreme of White clifl' bearing W.S.W. distant 1 J, miles. Westward of the spit there is fair anchorage in S fathoms, good holding ground, with the spit extreme distant one mile. l)earing S.E. by K. }, E. ; ilo not anchor further northward. Directions. — Feel your way cautiously by the lead into this anchorage ; the l)ank is very steep outside, and shoals suddenly within. inr chart, Xo. l',G8y. Chap, v.] BOUNDARY BAY. — ROBERTS BANK. 171 Do not lie at the western anchorage with strong soxitherly or westerly winds, but shift round to the eastern, or ti> Semiahnioo bay, and give Roberts point a berth of 2 nides in rounding ; neither of the anchorages at Iloberts point can be considered as more than stopping places, and during winter, l)e preparetl to weigh at short warning. ROBERTS BANK, formed by the alluvial tleposits of Fraser river, extends from Roberts spit W. l)y N. for 1>5 miles, to the Sand heads, at this point is .') miles from the shore ; it then takes a N.N.W. directi(m for a further distance of 12 miles, joining Grey |)oint. The portion of the bank northward of Fraser river is nanu'd Sturgeon bank ; it is steep-to, there being dei»tlis of from 70 to tiO fathoms at one mile from its edgi', shoaling suddenly to 20, and then to 2 fathoms. Two black beacons, 12 feet above high water, mark the edge of Roberts bank, and two similar beacons mark the edge of Sturgeon bank. GEORGIA STRAIT.— Having passed out of .luan de Fuea strait by either of the channels before described, when north- westward of a line <lrawn between Fast ixtint of Satuinia island and Whitehorn point (mainland) a vessel may be considered in Georgia strait.* CAUTION.— Buoys and beacons.— In conse(iuenc»^ of the steejmess of the shores and rapidity of tidal streams, buoys and beacons in Georgia strait are liable to be swept away, and shmild not therefore be implicitly relied on. General remarks. — To those bound from sea, or from any of the southern ports of Vancouver island to Georgia strait, Haro channel is preferable, while to reach the same destination from Admiralty inlet or Puget sountl, Rosario strait is the most direct and desirable. Having traversed either channel, the promontory (tf Roberts point will be seen, ajipearing as an island. The dangers to be avoidetl when working through Georgia strait are, on the northern shore, Roberts and Sturgeon banks ; and on the southern, the neighbourhood of East point, and Tumbo island, anil the coasts of Saturna and Mayne islands, until beyond thi' entrance of Active pass. A chain of reefs and rocky islets lie parallel with ■ Sir Admiralty charts Oo inch. -Strait of ticurgia. Vos. .'73 .ind 580 ; sonic, m ^ i'- il }■ (}K()R(Jr.\ STRAIT, [('Imp. V this rthorr, in places exleiuliuji nearly oiie mile oil'; ami tiie Ixtttoni iis rocky and irregular, with strong tides. Extending one mile K.N.E. lioni the east end of Tiimbo islantl is a ledge of foul, rocky ground, over which there arc very heavy tide- rips, and dangerous overfalls. A large black conical buoy, in 12 fathoms, mai'ks the extirme of the reef, with Kast point S. ^ W., distant 1,1 miles. Ai)out KMI feet inshore of the buoy is a small patch of 2 fathoms, sui)poscd to be remains of the wreck of the ship John li(>si'»felt. At 7^ cables N.N.E. from Hacc point is a rocky patch of 5 fathoms, about 400 yanis in extent, and at about 2(10 yards to the north- westward of this patch there is a rock with only 11 feet water on it. Orcas Nob kept well open eastward of the east point cf Waldron island, bearing S.S.E. } K., leads in tlie fairway between Saturna and Patos islands, 1 j miles eastward of the rock ; and Toe point (Patos island), in line with tlu' north extreme of 8i;cia island, bearing E. -J, S., leads nearly three-quarters of a mile to the northward of it. A sunken rock, nuirked by kelp, with a depth of 2 feet on it and irregular soundings around, is situated 1{, cables E. by S. from Eilith point, north coast of Miiyne island. Ct.Ution. — As before observed (page U4j, when possible, pass midway between Saturna and Patos islands; on m* account give the East point of Tumbo island a berth of less than li miles, and it is recommended not to iipproiich the northern shores of the islands lying between Haro strait and Active jjiiss, within a distance of 2 miles ; and it is strongly urged to adhere strictly to this advice. The light on Georgina point, at the entrance to Active pass, becomes obscured when bearing westward of W. ^ S. ; aiivl it should be borne in mind that dui'ing the iiight while this light is in sight all the dangers oil' the northern shores of ihe above inlands will be avoided. It should also be remembered that the ebb sets H.W., through Active pass, and that tide nices occur in its northern entrance. Itoberts bank is easily avoid* d. The extreme of Roberts spit, or the tangent of the high trees immediately within it, should not be brought to bear to the south- ward of East ; if the weather is thick, when o(^ fathoms is struck, a vessel will be getting very near the edge. .V( chHi't, >'o. 'ifi^^. C'hiip. v.] CVrTlON.— FRASKIl RTVEH. 173 ee The tidal streams, iiltli<)n<,'h not nearly HO stronjf rtH among the Ilaro arcliipplajjo, yet run with considcralile stron<;th (8 knot8\ particularly dnrin<jr the fn\shots of summer, when Fraser river discharges an immense volume of fresh water, which takes a southerly direction over the h.uik;? almost srr,ii'4:ht for Active piss. The peculiar milky-coloured water is frequently carried quite across the strait, and is sometimes seen in the inner channels along the shores of Vancouver island : at other times it reaches the centre of the channel only, forming a remarkable ami most striking contrast with the deej) blue waters of Georgia strait. B(dow the mouth of Kraser river, the stream is rather the stronger on the southern shore. On the northern side, within the line between Roberts and Sandy jjoints, scarcely any stream is felt ; and vessels will gain by working up on that shore, where good anchorage can also be found, if necessary. Allowance must be matle for the tides : this is not dithcult when after having ■.>nce entered (ieorgia strait l)y daylight, and noted which stream was r-unning. In the centre of the strait above Saturna and Patos islands, the sti-ength of the stream varies from one to ',\ knots, seldom more, unless close to the southern shores, which are swept l)y the rai)id stream out of (ral»ri(da, I'ortier, and Active passes. North- v.-est ward of the mouth <tf Fraser river there is still less stream and plenty of sea room, the l)rea<lth of the strait being nearly 15 miles. FRASER RIVER, in point of magnitude and commercial importance, is second only to Columbia river on the north-west coast of America. In its freedom from risk of life and shipwreck, it possesses infinite advantages oA-er any other river on the coast, and the cause of this immunity from the dangers and inconveniences to which all great rivei-s emptying on an exposed coast are subject, is sulKciently obvious. A shtdtered strait, scarcely 1.") miles across, receives its waters ; and the neighbouring island Vancouver serves as a natural breakwater, preventing ihe possibility of any sea arising whicl\ would prove dangerous to ve-isels even of the smallest class, unless they ground." The river, with its numerous tributaries, has its rise in the Rocky mountains, between iOO and ")()() miles from the coast in a northerly * Set Admiralty ehart : — Frnsev river aiul Burrard inlet. No. 1,922; loale. ;// = one Inch. 174 GEORGIA STRIAT. [Chap. V (liri'ction, whence it forces its way in torrents and rapids, thronjjh one of tho many ^reat parallel valleys which intersect this rep^ion, confined by ^'i^'antic niountains, with larjje tracts of country, rich in agricultural resources on either side of them, until it reaches the town of Hope, which is about 80 miles by the windings of the river, in an easterly direction from its entrance. Above the city of Lytton, which stands at the fork or confluence of Fraser and Thompson rivers, .5') miles above Hoj)e, many rich deltas occur, or as they are termed by the miners, bars, and among these known as the wet digging's, crold was first 'liscovered in Kritish Columbia. Midway between Langley and Hope, Harrison river falls into the Fraser, and by it and a long chain of lakes extending in a general N.W. direction a comparatively easy route has been established, by which the upper Fraser is reached at a point just below Bridge river, in the heart of the gold regions. (.'onsideral)le attention has l)een attracted to the sul]thur (temperature 1(!1 Fahr. ) springs of Harriscni river. Navigable depths. — The old channel, southward of the Sand head lighthouse, is entirely closi^d. The entrance to the present channel is 1| miles north-westward of the lighthouse, and as dams and training walls have been erected, it is considered probable that the direction of and depth in the channel will be maintained. As changes may occur, the following information and directions should be used with caution. The least depth to be passed over between Georgia strait and New Westminster is about 12 feet at low water and 22 feet at high water springs, situated southward of English's cannery, about oL miles within the entrance. Vessels of 14 feet draught can proceed as high as Langley with ease, provided they have or are assisted by steam power and are acquainted with the existing deep-water channel, which, it should be I'emembered, is subject to change. It must be remembered, however, that \e tidal streams of Georgia strait sweep across the channel of the entrance, and to those in a large ship it is recommended to enter or leave with the last cjuarter of the flood. Steamers of light draught reach Hope, and even the town Yale, 1.') miles above it, during from six to nine months of the year. In June, July, and August, the melting of the snow causes so rapid a See chart, No. 1,922. Ohnp. V.J PRASRR HTVRR. 173 tlownward stream fh i "^^' ■ " '"'!« fro,,, ,h, Hv,.r-.. n,„ ' ! ' """ '■"'""'■'• '"" l^'"«' '» ""r l,eo„m,., „ ,,„„„, "^^ ' > •" ' ,„™ ,„„r. , but a, L„„p,„. rh" .'*i..h i„ ,„ f„„„„.« , ,,.:'.,';'" '""■'■ •■■;"v.,i.„„v a„. LIGHT -F,. '"'■" •' •"""»■ a 'l-la,,,,. „, ,. ,„i,„ I'^h'. v,s„„,. i,, ,,„„. ^.^^^^^^^ ^,^^2 , Fog- bell._i)„,i„,, thick ,„. f R'«e and fan Of the river - Ti, ■ - tHet above ,t., ]„„.e.., lov,.] , ,h„ ,, - ' "" '"'""■'' I is ,„,-|,a|„ Ma.v the wa,..,. ,,,,., , ' '" 'h.- ..,„, „,- „„„ ■'"ly o,. ,„i,|,„e of A„.„^, „'."""« """"atio,,. ,„„„ ,„„,„;' -■.-;i.^tt:;c:^;:•:;r:'™-":-'^^^^ f™n the ,ai,l,He to t|,o e„,| of r *■"• -P<«ml„.,, October, „„d Nov™ , 'i' 'T '—'»"'-^"y »,r„„„ -Uhe strength of the et",;"^.:"'':'',™"-': ''-''■ '<> .-eh ll "" 'ainer.s ope, 176 OEOROIA STRAIT. [Chap. V. ! praotioable nt all. The sna^fl or drift trees which become imbetlded in the river also form a serioiiH obstacle to iiavijjation at this season. In April the steamers commence again to run ; in June, July, and August the rapidity of the current is the great ol)stacle, but these high-pressure vessels, commanding a speed of 11 and 12 knots, frequently accomplish the voyage, though at much risk. Buoys and beacons. — A black beac(m with ball lies 7 cables S.W. bv W. from the lighthouse. A voi\ bell buov lies half a mile south-west of the rivei- entrance. A beacon is ])laced on Old North sand head S. by 1']. U, miles from the lifjhthouse ; and the western edge of Hturgeon bank is similarly marked by twn beacons N.N.W. distant 4 miles, and 7.\ miles respectively from the lighthouse. These beacons are each a cluster of three })iles surmounted by a cross ; they are coloured black, and the positions are approximate. The channel into the river is shewn by red buoys on the south side, and black buoys on the north. A beacon is placed on the east side of Westham island, on the south bank of the river, li\ miles within Garry point ; and two small spar buoys mark the sides of the channel (Woodward slough) eastward (tf the beacon. Tides gaugres avu i)laced on the northern side of the entnince channel abreast No. t> black buoy, a.id oii the east side of Annacis island, nearly one mile from the north end. Directions. — Coming from the northward. Passage island at the entrance of Howe sound, kept in line, or just open eastwaid of a remarkable peak on Anvil island within the sound, bearing' N. by W. I W., leads H miles clear of the edge of the Hturgeon bank. Having made the Sand-head lighthouse, and the bell buoy, steer for the entrance, and enter the channel, leaving the black buoys within close on the port hand, and the red buoys close on the starboard hand, up to Garry point. Keep within one cable of that point, and of the shore eastwai-d, nearly as far as English's cannery, which is al)out *.) cables eastward of Garry point. Then bring that cannery to bear N.N.W. astern, and with it on that bearing cross over to the Westham island bank, keeping about one cable off up to the beacon on that island. Thence alter course to the eastward and pass between the two small si)ar buoys at the entrance of Woodward's slough. Steer in mid-channel, rather on the northern side of the river, through Woodward's slough and (iraves- end reach ; thence southward of Annacis island, keeping towards iScf chart, No. 1.022, Chaj). v.] FUASBR RIVER.— NKW WKSTMINSTER. 1 i < the south shore through the first bentl, then in mid-channel to New Westminster. Tides. — It is hif?h water at full antl change at Fraser river entrance at oh. (hn., si)rings rise 7 to 10 feet. The time of high water is about 2 to 3 liours hxter at New Westminster tlmn at the entrance of tiie river, and tin- rise and fall da(! to ti(hvl causes at springs, is (i feet, anil at Langley scarcely perceptil)le. There are nearly always two tides in the lunar day. The state of the weather in Georgia strait, the rains, and the amount of water in the river, alfect the tides Vessels will stddon swing to the flood stream until October, the change of ti(h^ at other times Iteing shewn by a decrease in strength of the ebb or down stream. In September (he ebl) has been observed to run 3 or I knots, and the flood ih knots, the water being (piitt^ frt'sh. Ice. — On 1st January 1891 the ice in the river off New Westminster was 4 inches thick. New Westminster stands on the north or right bank of Fraser river, just above the jnnctiim of North Fork, and 1.") miles in a general north-easterly dii-ection from the entrance proper. It occupies a commanding and well chosen position, Ijeing within a i easy distance of the entrance, and having great facilities for wharfage along its water frontage, a good depth of water, and excellent anchorage. Vessels moor abreast New Westminster in mid-channel, where the depth is ()^ to 7 fathoms, sand and mud bottom. The river bank is somewhat precipitous in places, and the country at the back is like all the lower parts of Fraser river (unices, indeeil, in the immediate neighbourhood of the entrance, where it is SAvampy grass land, subject to inundation during the freshets of summer), densely wooded ; a considerable clearing, however, of the timber has taken place in the vicinity of the town, which assumes a prominent and thriving aspect. It has several public buildings of note, including a very good hos])ital, and large canneries. The site of the former military establishment, one mile above New Westminster, is a most picturesque spot, commanding an uninter- rupted view of the Queen's reach, a broad, dee]), and magnificent Sff chart. Xo. I,!t22. SO 11948 M 178 GEORGIA STIIAIT. [Chap. V. sheet of water. From it to port Mooly (iit the head of Rnrranl inlet, and a rftatioii of the Canadian Pacific Itailwiiy) tiie distance in 4 miles in a nortli ilircction ; si'Vcral <,'0(»il roadn exist between the two places, and a l)rancli railway line has been constructed between port ^[ooily and New Westininstia- ; also a \va^'i,'on road to the outer (Vancouver) harbour of the inh^t. Livtu-pooi, on the south Hitle of the river opposite New Westminster, is connected with Seattle by railway. The poi)ulatiou of New Westminster in 1894 was about 8.000. Supplies of all descriptions are readily obtained, and salmon in abundance in the season. There are not many facilities for repairs to shipping and machinery. Coal can be obtained. About 500 tons are usually kept in stock, but any (quantity can be procured at a short notice. Vessels can coal from barges, or they can go alongside a wharf, which extends into a depth of 20 feet at low water. Pitt river. — At ."> miles eastward of New Westminster is the entrance to Pitt river, which trends in a general direction from N.N. 10. to N.K. for 28 miles, terminating in two remai-kable lakes enclosed between almost i)erpenilicular monntains, and navigable (for those that can pass tie railway bridge) to the iiead for vessels of 11 fi'et draught, the dei)tli in i)laces being far too great for anchorage. A large tract of low grass land lies on both sides of the entrance of the river, which, however, is generally overflowed, or partially so, during (5 weeks of summcT. Derby or New Langley.— The landing place at fort Langley, is 12 miles above New Westminster in an easterly direction, on the south or opposite side of the river ; the channel between is deep, and there are no impediments to navigation. This spot was first selected as the cai)ital, and as a town site it is unobjectionable, having a considerable tract of good cleared land in its neighbourhood, and all the requirements of a commercial port ; the depth of water here is 10 fathoms. Vessels may proceed with ease 7 miles beyond Langley ; the navigation then becomes somewhat intricate, and the current too rapid for any vessels but steamers of light draught and great power. North Fork is another entrance to the Fraser, navigable for vessels of light draught at high water, and is generally used by the natives ])roceeding to or from Rurrard inlet. Its junction with the Sec chart, No. 1,'J22. Chap, v.] PHASER RIVER.— HURRA RD INLET. ]V,) main stroam occurs iinmcdialely below New WoHtminstcr, from whonco it rniiH in a wc-ttci-lj- diri'dion, anil enters Georgia strait tliroui^h Sturi,'('on baiiVc, about .") miles nortliward of the Sajid heads ; a largo low i)ai'tially woodeil island (Sea island) lies in its entrance, anil si)lits the channel into two arms. In many i)arts of North Fork the water is deep, in holes, and the bottom irrccrular ; It can only be considered a boat cliannel. BURRARD INLET is the first fjreat harbour which indents the shoreo of IJritish Columbia north of the 19th parallel. Its entrance is between Grey jjoint on the south and Atkinson point on the north.* Grey j)oint, a loiiij wooded promontory terminatinf; in a rounded bluflf, is very eonspicuous from the soutliward, while Jiowen island, which lies at the entrance of Ilowe sound, and may also be said to form the northern boundary of the inlet, is very renuirkabh; ; its hif,'h, round, and almost bare summit, mount (iardner, roachinj,' an elevation of 2,471) feet, is easily recognised from any jjoint of view. Passage island, small, but j)rominent, lies in the eastern passage of Howe sound, midway l^etween Bowen island and Atkinson point, and is an excellent mark from the southward. Burrard inlet differs from most of the great sounds of this coast in being comjjaratively easy of access to steam-vessels of any si/e or class, and in the convenient depth t)f water for anchorage which may be fonnd in almost every part of it ; its close proximity to Fraser river, with the great facilities for consliiicting roads between the two places, and its having become the terminus of the Pacific and Canadian Railway, likwise add considerably to its importance. It is divided into three distinct harbours, viz., English bay or the outer anchorage ; Vancouver (fomnally called Coal harbour), cibove the First narrows ; and port Moody at the head of the eastern arm of the inlet. LIGHT. — From a square wooden lighthouse situated on Atkinson point is exhibited, at an elevation of 0') feet abovt^ high water, a revolving white light, attaining its greatest brilliancy ereri/ minutf, visible in clear weather 14 miles. The light is obscured when bearing eastward of N. 72'^ K. Fogr sig^nal. — A horn gives a blast of six seconds duration at intervals of .58 seconds. * &'c Admiralty plan : — Burrard inlet. ""Vo. !>22 ; scale, m = 2'U inches. RO 11948 M2 im r.EORfJIA STRAIT, IJUUUARI) INLliT. [Chai). V. Pilots. — A Hinjill pilot VfHHi'l iirtiiiilly ctuIhcs btftwotui point Grey and i)oiiit AtlciiiHoii, or will be at aiK'lior iii'ur Sitaniwh hank, or in Skunk cove half a mile eastward of Atkinson point li^'lithonsu. ENGLISH BAY is more lliaii :» miles in breadth at the entrance between (irey and Atkinson points, whieli bear from each other N.N.W. anil S.S.K., and has the same breadth for nearly its entire len^'tli or almost -1 miles. The head of Kw^Wnh l)ay on tln^ south shore ttinninates in a shoal arm named False creek ; on the north shore it leads by First narrows to I'urrard inlet. The yreat volume of water which dischar^'es itself from tin- upper parts of the inlet ihrongh these narrows has scoui'ed out a deep (diannid on ihv north side of the outer anchorafjfe. Spanish bank contracts tln^ entrance in some measure, it is composed of hard saml, and is dry at low Avater ; its t^d^'e is steep-to, and when covered its existence W(»nld not l)e suspected ; there is no rii)plc on it unless with stronj,' westerly winds, and then only near low water. A i>ile beacon with red ball stands on the extreme northern edge of the bank, this beacon dries at low water; and a red can buoy, surmounted by a staff and ca^i', is moored in JO fathoms, west' rd of the bank. Anchorage. — There is '^i)(>d anchorage in English bay in (5 fathoms, still mud bottom, at about half a mile from the south shore of the bay (oil" Indian lints), \\ith wt'st extreme of Prospect point bearing N. by E. J, E., and lighthouse on Atkinson point W. by N. ij N. ; this anchorage is well protected from wi'sterly winds by Spanish bank ; anchorage may also be had further to the eastward, if desired. If intending to pass above the narrows, attend to the tides, and a stranger will do well to anchor in English bay before proceeding further u^). Tides. — In English bay it is high water, full and change, at 7h. Om. ; springs rise 13 feet, neaps 11 feet. During the winter months from September to March there is what is locally called a "short run out" during the day, and a "long run out "at night. The tide is consequently high during the day, and low at night. The duration of the short run out is from i} to 4 hours, that of the long 7 to '.) hours. This is entirely reversed during the summer months, wheii it is hi'jfh water during the night, and low water Sec chart, No. 922. riia]). v.] :N(;Msn bay— firmt natuiowh. ISI a • luring,' tlic diiy. Tlu' liilt-H iirc very comiiliciitcil, iinil caiMiot lu' (leiu'iidt'il on, except ;it lull iind chiin,t,'«' of tlie mnou. FIRST NARROWS <•!■ Lioirs iiMr mv on th.> north side of the inlet, where tlie lii'fiidtli of tlieeliiinnel Is not more limn 1.', ciihleh with ii d(*i)th of from 10 to ]'2 fiithonirt ; to ii wtriin<,'er the entnuuHi in not t'iiriily made out until close in. Directions. — A llal composeil of shinyle and houldei- stones, coverinj,' with the early Hood, extends from one to ;> ca])les olV tho north HJiore, so tliat Prospect point must he kept pretty close aboard, rather loss than one eahle. In a sailin^'-Hhip a knowledj^'e of the locality is necessary, as well as a connnanding ln-eeze, and tlu' nan-ows should never be attempted with the full stren<,Mh of the stream ; and you must be (juick and careful with the helm. Even for a steam-vessel the strength of the streams in First narrows necessitates unusual care. The narrow part of the chuimel is half a mile 'n length, when it gradually oi)ens out from 2 cables to half a mile, which is tin* breadth abreast Brockton point. Wlu-n past the narrowest part, the south shore should be kept aboard within 2 Ciibles until abn-ast Brockton point. A spar l)Uoy, painted red, i.i moored in .'i fathoms, at the edge of the bank on the s(,uth sidc^ of First narrows, with I'lockton point lighthouse beai'ing E. | S., distant 1 cables. Three beacons mark the edge of the I)ank, which ilries at low water, on the northern side of the narrows. Two white masts, each iU) feet high, stand on 13i ockton point, the eastern one snrmounteil by a triangle ; the rear mast bearing S. 72' E., distant 105 feet, from the front mast. Two white masts, each 20 feet high and surmounted by a tlrum, stand on the shore southward of I'arthia shoal. The beacons on Brockton point in line, bearing S. 72° E., lead in a least dejith of .');}^ fathoms soutliward of Parthia shoal, from a position with (me of the beactms (20 feet high, with drum, as above mentioned) abeam or bearing about S. 18° W. until the other beacon u-' abeam. When the tidal streams are running with any strength, there are eddies in First narrows, and it is neces-viry to exercise caution, especially with heavy draught vessels, in passnig through. A stranger should not enter the narrows unacquainted Avith the state of the tide. See chart, No. 922. t i'ii 1 1 182 (iEOROIA STRAIT, IJURRARI3 INLET. [Chap. V. I Parthia shoal lios iu juitl-cliinmol noi-th-wostwanl o!; IJrockton point, its extent, within the r)-i"atiu>ms line, is '^h cables long, east and west, and 1^ cables broad, and the least water is iH fathoms neiir the east end. A second bank oi: 25 feet, with 7 fathoms between, lies one cal)le north-eastward of Parthia shoal. The passage for large vessels is southward of the shoals with (shoul I the beacons be down) the chimney of the sugar relinery iu line with Brockton point E. by S. ] S. ; passing Brockton point at a distance of 200 yards. Burnaby shoal, about 2 cables iu extent, with 9 feet on it, lies 3|- cables E. ] N. from Brockton [)oint ; the kelp, however, is frequently not seen until close to. It is marked on its north-eastern edge by a red spar buoj', moored with eastern extreme of Brockton point West, distant i5 cables. Tides. — The Htri'ugth of the; tide in the narrowest part of the First narrows is from 4 to 8 knots. It is high water, full and change, at 7h. ; rise I'i feet. VANCOUVER HARBOUR, the anchorage inside First narrows, is a bight formed by the land falling back from Brockton point ; midway between Vancouver town and Hastings mill, Whiting bank extends IJ cables from the shore, with 2|- fathoms on its outer edge.* LIGHT. — On Brockton point a Jixed white and red light is exhibited on a mast, at an elevation of 51 feet above high water. The red sector is shown between S. 83° W. and N. 07" W. (30°). Fo§r Sigrnal. — A bell is struck once every 25 seconds. Vancouvei', a rapidly increasing town, is situated on the eastern Bide of Vancouver harbour ; it is the terminus of the Canadian Pacitic Railway, and trains leave daily for Montreal. It is in telegraphic communication Avith Vancouver island and Montreal. There are excellent facilities for beaching vessels. The depths alongside the Cau.idian Pacific Railway wharf are 24 to 2(5 feet at low water. The pier, half a cable eastward of Buckland point, has a depth alongside it at low water of 24 feet. See Admiraltv plan : — Vancouver harbour, No. 922 ; scale, m = 4'0 inches. Chap, v.] BUURAUD INLET.— VANCOUVER HARBOUR. i8:i At Ha8tinf,'s saw-mill tliere are several piers with a depth of 25 feet alongside the largest . The popnlatioi. in 1801, numbered i;?,r)8r). Communications. — There is regular steam eommnnication between Vancouver town and .Japan, China, Sandwieh islands, New Zealand, Australia, San Francisco, and ports in Puget sound in connection with the C!anadian Pacific Railway ; and mails for Australia, China, and Japan are conveyed by this routi'. The steamers from China coal at Vancouver from a hulk ; thev call at Esquimau. There is railway communication with New Westminster. Supplies. — Wood and coal are retidily procured. Water is obtained from the princijjal wharves. The city is supplied witli water from Capilano creek on the northern shore ; the main pi])e crosses First narrows from the eastern mouth of the cri'ck. Tides. — From observations, obtained at the Canadian Paciiic railway v.harf, in April, May, and June, it was II.W.F. & C. at 7 hours; on ti'is day the rise was Jl feel. The greatest range however, \iz., IIJ feet, was observed from 2 to 4 days after full anil change of tho moon. The neap rise, usually occurring from '.) to 11 days after full and change, was 11 feet, and range 7 feet. At point Atkinson high and low water are about three-quarters of an hour earlier, and at port Moody a quarter of an hour later than at Vancouver. The streams, both Hood and ebb, in First and Second narrows turn at high and low water by the shore. The above observations shew a large diurnal inequality, which affects the high waters from a few inches to 4^ feet, and the low waters a few inches to 9^ feet. Two tides of unequal range usually occur in the 24 hours as follows : — Higher high water, hightir low water, lower high water, lower low water. The greatest range follows the moon's maximum declination. The tide has the peculiarity of rising to nearly the sauH' level at the liiglur high waters whether it be at springs or neaps, where;is tlie level of the low waters varies in the usual manner. In summer the higher tides occur at night, and in winter during the day. Moodyville. — At Moody ville, on the north shore, there is a steam saw-mill, also a gridiron 180 feet long and 40 feet wide, capable at spring tides of taking a vessel drawing 12 feet ; alongside See ohiurt, No, 922. ■'I 184 flEOUUTA HTRAIT, BURRARD INLET. [Chap. V. it is ii siiiiill wiurf. Steam I'oi'ry huiils ply bjtwuuu this pliice cind the several other settlements in Burranl inlet. Hastingrs, a small villa,i,fe situated on the south side of the inlet is 3 miles eastward from Vancouver, and is connected with New Westminster by a road 1) miles lon^'. It is much frequented during the summer months. Anchorage. — The best anchoi-age iu Vancouver harbour is in the south-east corner iu from 10 to 12 fathoms, mud, with the north extreme of the piers at Hastinsjfs mill bearing E. by N., and the landing stage at Vancouver town (i long floating stage) bearing South. This position is out of the influence of the strong tidal streams. Coal is obtained from Nanaimo and neighbouring ports, and the amount kept in stock is uncertain. TugT- — A powerful steam tug is available for iowiug vessels between Juan de Fuca strait and Burrard inlet. Second narrows are similar to the First ; a l)(ink of the same description, but more extensive, is caused by the deposit brought down from the high mountains by the numerous streams which flow into the inlet on the north side. This bank is dry at low water, and the breadth of the deep channel, at the narrowest part and for half a mile on either side of it, varies from 1^ to 2 cables, with a depth of from 10 to 20 fathoms. The channel, however, is straight, and the tidal streams which run from 15 to 7 knots set fairlv through it. The only directions necessary are to keep the south shore close aboard, and steer from point to i)oint without going far into the bights which indent the coast on either side of the narrowest part. The great strength of the streams cease when half a mile from the narrowest part of either narrows. A submarini' telegraph cable ci'osses Second narrows in the narrowest part, marked by three posts placed on the mud flat ; and the outer of these being on the southern edge of the flat is a good guide for the deep water channel. '^ORT MOODY.— The entrance to this snug harbour is 1 jniles eastward from Second narrows, at the head of the eastern arm of the inlet. It is 3 miles in length, and varies in breadth from one- third to half a mile, except at its entrance, where it is only 2 cables .Sir chart, No. 922. Chiip. v.] PORT MOODY. — NORTH ARM. 185 across : there aro no known (lan<r('rs, ami tliert' is an uuil'orni deptli of water, with good holding ground. The port takes a N.E. by E. direction for nearly 2 miles, and then E. by S. for one mile, terminating in a muddy tlat at its head, which reaches within 15 miles of the banks of Pitt river, and about i miles from the siti' of the military camp at New Westminster, on the Frasi'r, Wharfage accommodation for vessels of large tonnage is provided, the depth alongside which is )U» feet at low water. Anchorag'e.— The best anchorage is in tiie widest part of the harbour just before reaching the arm which turns E. I>y S., in from 5 to G fathoms. Abreast the turning point, and on the nortii shore, a bank dries off for nearly 2 cables at low water. NORTH ARM, i> miles eastward of Second narrows, branclu-s in a general northerly direction for 11 miles, it is entirely different in its character from other portions of the inlet. The dei)lh varies from .jO to 110 fathoms, and it is enclosed on both sides by ragged mountains rising from 2,000 to r),Ot)0 feet almost pei-pi-n- dicularly, and down the steep sides of which the melting snow in summer forces its way in j'oaming cascades, rendering the surface water in the inlet lielow nearly fresh. There is scarcely sufficient level lanil in this arm to pitch a tent, nor is there any anchorage except in Bedwell bay, a narrow creek 2 miles within the entrance, on the eastern ■'■Iiore, where 7 to '.> fathoms are foxind near its head. North arm is ji early one mile wide at the entrance, biat one mile within, it is contracted to a little over 2 cables, when it shortly opens out again, and maintains an average breadth of two-thirds of a mile as far as Croker island. There is a settlement on North arm named Richmontl and there are salmon canneries there. Tupper rock, in the approach to liedwell bay, is of small extent with deep water around, and having 10 feet over it at low water. The rock lies 15 cables N.E. :{ N. from Jug island, and is very dangerous to vessels entering Beilweli bay. Croker island is one mile from the head of the arm, and on both sides of it there are deep l)ut narrow channels ; that to the eastward is the wider. The head terminates in a delta of swampy rushes, throiigh which some rapid streams hnd their way into the inlet from a deep and narrow gorge in a N.N.W. direction. .S"(' chart, No. 'J22. 18fi GEORGIA STRAIT. [Chap. V. SOUTHERN SHORE OF GEORGIA STRAIT. GABRIOLA REEFS, a dangerous cluster of rocks, covering II space of nearly I J, miles, some of which cover at half flood, and others havlnjjf only a few feet water over them, lie 2 miles olf the oasti^rn point of Gahriola island. There is a passage inside the reefs, but it is not recommended. Nanoose or Notch hill just open of Ik^rry point (the north-east point of Gabriola island), liearing W. h S., leads one mile northward of them.* Thrasher rock, lying about 2 cables seaward from the northern end of the Gabriola reefs, is a detached rock which dries 1^ feet in the kelp which marks the neighbourhood. There is a depth 11 fathoms within one cable of the rock on its seaward side, and betweeii it and the Gabriola reefs there appeared to be a depth of about 5 fathoms over a rocky bottom. Berry point bearing W. ^ S. (well open of Flattop point), leads about one mile northward of Gabriola reefs and Thi'asher rock. The entrance points of Portier pass just touching on a S.S.E. | E. bearing, leads more than 1^ miles eastward of the reefs. Buoy. — A black can buoy, surmiunted by a spindle and cage, is moored in 11^ fathoms, one cable N.E. from Thrasher rock. Caution. — Westward of Flattop island the shore of Gabriola is bohl until near Berry point and Entrance island, when it should not be approached withni a long half mile ; foul ground extends for some distance eastward from the point of the island. ENTRANCE ISLAND lies half a mile N.N.E., from Berry point, it is rocky, 'M feet high, formed of sandstone, bare of trees, but has some vegetation on it. Thosi' j)assing up the strait bound for Nanaimo should rf»und tliis island ; there is a deep passage between it and Berry point named Forwood channel, a little more than 2 cables in breadth, which steam-vessels or small craft may use ; but the south anil west sides of Entrance island must be avoided, as reefs and broken ground extend 2 cables off them. LIGHT. — From a square, white, lighthouse situated on Entrance island, is exhibited, at 05 feet above high water, a fi.ved white light, • Ser Admiralty ohart :— Strait of Georgia, Sheet 1, No. 57!) ; uoale, w = 0'6 of an inoh. Chap, v.] GABRIOLA RKEF!^.— PAIilWAY CHANNEL. 1S7 with />v/ soctor betweiMi Wont ami N. 8IJ'^ W,, over Cabiiohi rtnds. Obseuri'd by laud when bearing' northward of N. SIJ" W. The Vv^ht shoukl be seen in clear weather from a diritance of 14 miles. Fog" Sig'nal. — A steam horn i/ives blasts of 8 seconds with sileiit intervals of 4.") seconds. Position.— Lat 4!f 12' 45 N., long. 12:\ 48 .j(>" W. FAIRWAY CHANNEL, l)etweeu the shore of (iabriola and Lighthouse island, is the most direct for vessels entering from the southward or eastward.* LightllOUSe island is a smooth-topped grassy sandstone island, ii cables in extent north and south, about 39 feet high, 15 miles W. by S. ^ S. from Entrance island. A ledge of rocks, 4 cables long in a north and south direction, lies to the eastward of Light- house island ; with the north end 2^ cables E.N.E. from the south point of this island, and the south end 4^ cables S.E. by E. from the same point ; the least depth on this ledge is 7 feet on its northern edge, and 21 feet on its southern. The ledge is generally covered with streaming kelp, and has a channel of 7 fathoms between it and the island. The southern end of the reef is markcil by a red can buoy in i) fathoms, with the south end of the island N.W. by W. I W., distant ."i cables. Lighthouse island is locally named Snake island. Directions. — Having entered Georgia strait, between East point of Saturna and Patos island, a W.N.W. course for 38 miles will lead nearly 1} miles outside Gabriola reefs, and abreast Entrance island, the latter bearing S.W. distant 5 miles. When proceeding through Fairway channel, if northward of mid-channel, keep a look- out for the kelp on Lighthouse island ledgi- ; when Lighthouse islanil bears N.W. steer S. | W., which leads to the entrance of Nanaimo harbour, ilistant a little over 2 miles. Strangers should be careful not to mistake Northumberland channel for it, which lies in a S.S.E. direction from Lighthouse island, between the high cliffy west coast of Gabriola island and Sharp point, a remarkable narrow projection on the main, and off which, at the distance of half a cable, is a rock which uncovers. * iSi-r Admiralty plan: — Nanaimo harbour and Departure bay, No. 2,612; scale, m := 4 iuohes. i t, ! ,jj " 1 ll ! ji i ■ i !P 188 GEORGIA HTRAIT, SOUTHEKN SHORE. [Chap. V. Hiiviuf,' i)asse(l between Lij^'htliousc and Oabriola islands, there in a good working,' space of Vj miles in breadth, between Gabriola on the east, and Newcastle and Protection islands on the west, but the water is too dee}) for anchorage. The shores of the latter islands should nc»t be aiJ])roachetl within a quarter of a mile, as shoal rocky ledges extend off them. Having bi'ought Gallows point (the southern extreme of Protection sland) to bear S.W. town will come in view. W., the A vessel may anchor if necessary with the high-water mark of Gallows point bearing "W.N.W., distant a (juarter of a mile, which will be in the Fairway of the entrance, but it is difficult for a sailing vessel to pick up a berth hero v/ith a strong breeze, as the space for anchorage is confined. NANAIMO HARBOUR (on Vancouver island) is formed by Protection island (lying at a little over half a mile off shore) to the eastward, and Newcastle island to the northward ; this latter island approaching the shore of Vancouver to within a distance of 1^ cables, and forming a narrow strait afll'ording communication with Departure bay to the northward.* The entrance to the harbour lies between Gallows point on the north side and a bank of mud on the south side. A rocky ledge extends for li cables on all sides of the point, and in summer is marked by kelp ; a large boulder stands on the ledge off the point, distant V)i) yards, and covers before high water. The south side of the channel is the northeni edge of the great shallow bay to the southward, which although it does not <iuite dry in this part, has only 2 or ?i feet on it at low water, and is steep-to. The harbour thence opens out, and when the banks are covered, gives the idea of being a large sheet of water, but the deep part is limited. Buoys, and beacons. — A wharf projects 150 yards from the western part of Gallows point, into 24 feet water ; two mooring buoys lie about half a cable off the cross-head of the wharf. The following now mark the channels into the harbour : — Gallows point buoy. No. 2, is reil with staff and disc. On the south side of the channel are two black buoys with staves and top nuu"ks, Nos. 15 and ;">, marking the shoal water off Nanaimo flats. On the south end of Middle bank is No. 0, red with staff' and cage ; and a red spar buoy near the edge of the bank. On the north end of the bank, a black beacon, from which a whitf light is exhibited. * Sir. Admiralty plan of Nanaimo harbour. No. 673 ; scale, w» =i 12 inchcB; also Xanaiino harbour and Departure bay, No. 2,512 ; scale, m = 4 inches. Chap, v.] NANAIMO HARBOUR. 180 A beacon of masonry, 14 feet high, Hurmounted by a staff and hittice-Avork ball, the whole pjiinted black and showing 10 feet above water, has been erected on Heacon rock, Nanaimo, in lieu of the black buoy previously marking that rock. A beacon, consisting of )} piles painteil black, disi)lays a ral light at a height of 10 feet above high water, and is situated on the south side of the channel, about 2 cables S.S.E. from (xallows point. The black buoy previously moored in this jjosition has been withdrawn. Southward of Satellite reef and marking the north side of North chann(d is No. 4 buoy, red with staff and cage. Carpenter's rock, off the town, is marked by a black buoy witliout distingui.'^hing mark ; and a black buoy. No. 9, with "staff and triangle, is moored on the edge of the flat extending off Mill stream. Then' are also two mooring buoys off the coal Avharves at Grave point. The positions and shapes of the l)uoys are liable to l)e changed, and are therefore not to be depended on. The town of Nanaimo contains about 4,()()0 inhabitants, but it is being c(mtinually a(Med to by immigration. Extensive colliery works are in full operation, and the country around possesses exceptional natural facilities. Steamers call here from San Francisco, Portland, and Alaska, as well as from Victoria and coast i)orts, and there is communication with Victoria by rail. Nanaimo is connected with Victoria and New Westminster by electric telegraph. The wharf accommodation is excellent. Provision is made for sick seamen, who are either admitted to the Nanaimo hospital, or transferred to the marine hospital at Victoria. A steam ferry runs between Nanaimo and Departure bay. Middle bank, 2 cables long in a northerly direction, and half a cable broad, lies in the centre of the harbour, and has a depth of only ii feet on it in places. Beacon rock lies nearly one cable off shore abreast the northern pier. NiCOl rock has been removed by dredging. A tide gauge station, on piles, stands near the site of the rock. St-e chart. No. 57;!. 190 GEORGIA STRAIT, SOUTHERN SHOdE. [ChiVp. V Directions. — Tlie jail, on the western side of Newcastle island passage, is conspicuous. Two narrow winding,' channels, the North and South, lead into the Usual anchorage, which is close oH: the town, and westward of the Mlddl(M)ank ; both are buoyed in the vicinity of the latter, but no strit'\<':«'r should enter either channel without a pilot. North channel lies l)etween the Middle bank (to the soutinvard) and the south e ^ :e of the Satellite reef. South channel, though of sulficient depth for large vessels, has a somewhat sharp turn at its western end, but is very convenient for sailing-vessels leaving with a northerly wind, wlien th(n' would ho obliged to warp out of the North channel. Anchor close off the town in .') fathoms, midway between the north edge of Middle bank and Heacon rock. Vessels can go alongside the wharves. A small creek on the north side of Douglas coal wharf afl'ords excellent facilities for beaching a vessel, and is frequently resorted to for that pur])Ose. Supplier. — Heef anil mutton may be procured, and the country around al)ounds in wild fowl and deer. Ship stores can be obtained : but material necessary for refitting a vessel must be jn-ocured frtun Victoria,. The facilities for repairing a ship's hull and machinery are limited, but small work connected with the latter might be executed at the machine shops. Coal. — The mines of Nanaimo produce a fair bituminous coal, which answers well for steaming purposes. It is lighter by about 10 per cent, than Welsh coal, and its consmnption proportionately i-apid. Two or more steamers can be coaled at the same time ; the depth alongside the wharf at low wati'r being from If) to 25 feet. The quantity of coal usually maintained on hand is 5,0(X) tons Vessels can coal from lighters alongside at all times. Newcastle island also produces large quantities, and the mines there are being rather extensively worked. Tides. — It is high water, full and change, at Nanaimo harbour about f) p.m., and the range of tide is sometimes 1-1 feet, which is as much as is met with anywhere on the coast, rendering this a most ■? Srr chart, No. B73. Chap, v.] NANAIMO HAUIJOUU.— DKrAUTURK HAY. 191 eligible spot for the construction of docks, for which it offerH peciiliiir facilities. This gre.vt ran^'e of tide only occurs ut midnif^ht ilurinj,' winter, and in the daytime in summer. The superior and inferior tidfs exist hero as they do at Esiiuimalt and anionif tiie Ilaro archipt'laj,'*). DEPARTURE BAY.— From Nanaimo tin- Ion:,' narrow channel or arm between Newcastle island and the main leads in a N.W. direction to Departure bay. It is l.\ miles in lenj^'th, and one cable in breadth, with 12 feet at low water, except on a rock wliirh has only 2 feet water on it lying in the centre, 2^ cables N.W. by W. h W. from Reef point ; this rock is marked by a black buoy. Vessels of 1') or 1(5 feet draught may enter Departure bay l)y this channel at suitable times of tide, ])Ut large vessels must enirr noi-lliward of Newcastle island.* Tho northern entrance to Departure bay is between Boulder point, the steep clifty north point of Newcastle island, and Jesse island, a small island to tin; northward of it, anil lies 2 miles S.W. h W. from Lighthouse island ; it is 15 cables wide and there is a depth of 20 fathoms in it. Very little less than this depth will be found in any part of the Ijay, and it is not nearly so sheltered as Nanaimo harbour. When coming from tlie northward, care must l)e taken to avoid the reef which extends more than 1^ cables from Hoi-swell bluff, the north entrance point of the bay. Fresh Av'ater can be obtained. Goal. — The coal wharves in the south corner of the bay are, New Vancouver Company's pier with 37 and )V^ feet alongside the cross heads, and East Wellington wharf, with 27 feet. The three wharves on the north-west side, inside Double island, have depths of 27, 2U and 24 feet respectively. Three warping buoys have been placed for the convenience of vessels about to coal. Black rocks generally show four lieads, but at low water appear as one rock. There is a small rock with G feet over it ;")(> yards west of the westernmost Black rock, with 4 fathoms close-to. Buoys. — The buoys in the bay and approaches are. No. 8, red with staff and ball, marking the reef off Newcastle island on the south-east side of the bay ; three mooring buoys oft' the wharves • Sfi- Ad;airalty plan of Nanaimo harbour and Departure bay, Xo. 2,512 ; scale 711 Ks 4 inches. 1U2 (IhJOHCJIA .STRAIT, SOrTHKUN SMOUK. [riiiii.. V. inside Donblo island ; rvd can, at edge of the shoal on the north shore inside IJIiick rocks ; blade can, eastward of the reef ofT Jesse island ; red can, in (i fathoms oil" Ilorswell blnll' reef; black spar, on south siile of West rocks ; and a red Hpur buoy at the eastern edge of Clarke rock. Horswell bluff. — An isolated bonlder, of very small (extent, with 2 i'eet over it at extreme low water, lies on the ')-fatlioms line three-quarters of a cable oil' shore, with the blutl' N. by W., and the western point of Jesse island S.W. by S. Directions. — Wlien intending to load with coals bring the sleep north i)oint of Newcastle island to l)ear N. by K., and anchor in not less than IH fathoms oil' the coal mini', 2 cables from the shore (or make fast to the mooring buoy until ready to haul alongside the wharf) ; the bank runs u]) steej) within the above dei)th, and shoals from 12 to 2 fathoms. T^nless anchored well out, a vessel is liable, with N.W. winds, to tail on the bank ; and ships are not recommended to lii' here after they have got tlieir cargo in. A stranger should take a pilot for the coaling station in Departure bay, either from outside oi- in Nanaimo harbour. The passage from the northern wharves between Double island and Black rocks is safe. That northward of and between Black rocks and the red buoy is also used, but care must be taken to keep a little northward after passing the easternmost rock in order to avoid the 2 fathoms off their east end. Middle channel, over one mile wide, lies between Lighthouse and Five Finger islands ; it has a depth of (SO fathoms. Passing through the centre of it, a S.S.E. course leads for Nanaimo harbour, between Protection island and Sharj) pftint. Five Fing-er island is a bare rugged islet 48 feet high, of about the same dimensions as T-.ighthouse island, lint of trap formation, instead of sanilstone ; the five hummocks on it resemble knuckles more than fingers. West rocks.— Four cables S.S.W. from Five Finger islanil are three smaller islets of similar character and formation, with some rocks about them, which uncover. These islets and rocks occupy a space of half a mile in a W.N.W. and E.S.E. direction ; there is a ])assage 3 cables wide between them and Five linger island witli Sir chart. \o. 2,") 12. ^•Iliip. v.] DKI'AUTI'RK HA Y.— NOnTHFMnKFU< ANh CHANNKL. VX', irro^'iilar rocky l)ott«iiii, ilu' tlfpilis xaryiiij,' rmm '.' in Xt I'litlioiiipt : it iH not ivconnnt'inUMl, Imt, if iiHcd, Fivi* Kinv'*'!' iHliiiitl t^hoiil*! !)♦• kept iihoanl. Inner channel, 1 cahlcs in Itreadth, lit-s between the above islets and the 8h(»re of (lie main, untl In'iiif; more dii-cct, is convenient for steamers or Hmail craft bound to or from the northward; tlw mid- ehaunel course throutrh it is X.W. Almost in the centre of (his channel are the Clarke r<»cks, which dry 4 feet at low Wiiter. A red buoy is moored on these rocks. NORTHUMBERLAND CHANNEL, before menliom-d as lyiiif,' between Sharp point and the western shore (»f (iabrioia island, runs in a S.K. direction for I,', miles, and (hen Kas( for *i miles, when it enters the D«»dd and False narrows, the former on the south side of Mud^'e island, the latter on the n(»rth : a rock which uncovers extends half a cable off the extreme of Sharp point. False narrows are shoal with no ship passa^'e, but there is excelN'nt anchorage in IVrcy i»ay at their western entrance, in from 7 (o 10 fathoms, where vessels may lie to wait the ti<le throu^di Dodd mirrows. A submarine electric cable crosses Northumberland channel three- quarters of a mile westward of Dodd luirrows. Dodd narrows have been already described (])ai.'«' I'M) from th«^ southward ; they communicate with the inner channels leading; to the southern ports, and save a distance of "2(1 miles in the passafje from Nanaimo to Victoria or Ksquimalt, and they are conse<|uently freciueuted l>y boats, small vessels, an<l sometimes by .steam-vessels (d" considerable si/c ac({uaiuted with the locality. Strangers are not i'ec(»mmended to use them. Coming' down Northumberland channel, look out for the narrow entrance on the south side, an<l when it bears S.K. steer for it : the tidal streams run at their strcui^'esl S knots, and there is a very short interval of slack water ; the breadth in the narrowest part is SO yards. The tides in Dodd narrows are about one hour earlier than at Nanaimo, therefore a vessel intendiufjf to pass <lown should be at the narrows an hour l)efore hifjli water at that place, if Sf>iug through with the first of the ebb : <»r at two hours before low water if with the last of it. !■;: ,Vr chart. So. «71». SO na<.«< X It) I CHAPTKIf VI. GEORGIA STRAIT, FROM NANAIMO HARBOUR AND BURRARD INLET, TO GAPE MUDGE AND BUTE INLET. Vartatiox. ".H Kiist, in IS'.»S. GEORGIA STRAIT, as ulrcMdy (il)si'i'v.'(l. cninint'nrcs :it tlu- iKirtlicni end of llic Hiiin iirciiiiii'liivu. iimi rxtfiuls in ii LrciuTal W.N.W. (Iin'cti(ni to fi\]u' Mii(I},m', ;i (lisiiiiict' n\' I lit miles. 'rinTf arc many liiii'l>oni's, botli on tlic Vjincoiiv t-r anil inntintMital sliucfs ; and Ht'veral iHlandn. sonic of considcrahlc si/c. form otlicr channels, all of which arc naviirablc.'"' The iivcra^'c width of the main strait westward of Xanuimo isaltoni 1< miles, tliniinishinj,' at its narrowest part, bctwecti Las(|neti and the ISallinac islands, to .") miles. Th«' fifcneral licpth of watci- is i,'rcat, fre(|iiently over ;2(>0 fathoms. 'I'lie tides arc not stroma, and hctween Nanaimoand Mudfjc tluMv arc few dan^'ers in l!ic wa\ of ships nasi- uatiiif; the strait. The smaller channels (»n the continental shore arc Malasjjina strait and Sabine channel, the former Ivinj,' between the c<intincnt and Texada island, the other separating' Texatla from Lascjueti island. On the Vancouver shore is P)allinac channel, lyin<^' westwanl nf the islands of the same name ; also Tianibcrt channel and Itaynes sound, the former between Hornby and Henman islands, and the hitter dividing both from Vanconvci' islami. Tides and tidal streams.— The meeting of the tides takes iilace Ix^twci'n ca|)e Mudf>:e and cajjc La/.o : that is to say, the Hood enterinjif by .Tiian dc Fuca strait meets that entci-inf,' by the north end of Vancouver island, within '20 miles of the former cape, tjenerally much nearer, but varying according to the ))hases of the ^Ser Adniiriilty cliaii : — Strait of (it'orK'iii. slieet I, No. .")"'.» ; si-rili'. m ~ n-" t,( ;iii iucU : also sheet 'J. No. .")Sii ; s(';i]e, vi = ii',"! of im iiicli. I,-. flmp. vr.] NANOOSK II \Kitoru. I'.t:. nuiiiii itiul tilt' stutf ))(' the winds; aiul at tlu- |)oiiit <>{' iiitMiiii^' a <!»)nHi»U'nil»k' ract- (torni'M, whit-li woulil !»«• (Ianj,'t'i(Mis in ImaiH : tlu'ri- 18 ^?eiu*rally wiich a men al tlio »'Uti-,iiu'i' of Disinvt-ry pasMjiifr. ll is liij?li water, full and chauj^o, at i-ape Miulf,'*- ami tapf LaA«» al about 'ih. 'MUn., and thr ixiimfi' during ordinary sprin^'H i^ fntiu 12 to U tVet. At tln' entrance of tlu* paHrtii^f*' during? springs the tidal rttn'aniK attain a velocity of 4 t(» (I knots an hour, ilie tlood, i<r easterly sireani, beiiijLr the stronj,'er. Winds. — The |)revailin<,' siiininer wiiul in (re(»i<;ia strait is from N.W., or the same as on the outside coast, and between May and September it blows strong; an<l steady, c(»mmencint( about '.) a.m. and dyinj,' away towards sunset, Tliese winds do not fjenerally extend much below Roberts point, anions' the Haro archipela<,'o they become variable and batllin^', while in the main channels of Wosario ami Ilaro the westerly wind entering the strait of Fnca is deflected to S.W., and vessels running up these channels with a fair wind will almost always lind it ahead on entering (ieorgia stifiil. Durintr winter there i.« a good deal of moderate, calm, and gloomy weather, Init gales from S.K. and S.W. are frequent. i- NANOOSE HARBOUR, at 8 miles westward from Nanaimo, is easily recognised liy Nanoose or Notch hill, a remarkable hill i\2i't feet high, immediately over its north side, showing as a double ornotcdi peak from the southward ; the harbour trends ;> miles W.S.W. The entrance between Maud*' island anil Pdiinden point is ihree- <|uarters of a mile wide, and the width of the harbour varies between .'i cables and over one mile. ' liCaving Nanaimo harbour, and passing out by either channel (Mi<ldle channel to be preferred), or l»eing at from a half to one mile northward from Five Finger island, aW. by S. course, or straight for Nanoose hill, leads for the entrance of the harliour, distant 7 miles. Winchelsea and Ada islands, a grouj) of small woodeii islands, lie (»tt' the north |)oint of Nanoose harbour. Maude island, small, woo<led, and about 100 feet high, is the stuithernmost of the gn»up, and lies three-quarters of a mile K.N.K. from the north point of the harbour. When working in stand, pretty close to it and to F>lunden point, but when inside the lattei-. a * ik'u Adnuniltv plan ol Nandose harbour mi Shet-t ot IMaiis. No. ."iSO ; scale, in ^ ;} inohef. SO ll\t4t< N2 IDG liKOFldlA STIIAIT. SOUTHKaX SHOHK. [(Mlill). VI. rtjvnd-baiik dr'u's for :i cdiislilt'nilili' distiivcc otV :il low wutor, iind the south siKtre sh«»tild not he iijjproaclicd within a (juarti-r ol" a mile. EntrailC3 rock, 2 feet abovo lii<j:h watt'!-, lies 1\' mik'S W.S.W". from l>linid(>n ])oint, cxtciidiiif,' off a Mat on the south side, almost into (hf middle of the harboui-, and coiiti-aetin^' the width of tlie ))assa^»' lo ;i cables ; witliin this, the harbour opens out to nearly one mile in width, lei'minalinj^ at 1} miles in a siioal mud Mat, whieii dries al low water more than halt' a mile, and where (|uantities of oysters art* found. A sunken rock, with a de|)th of l.i ftet on it at low water, is situated in the entrance to Nanoose har])oin', in a ])osilion with (lie centre (»f Entrance rock bearinir S. .', W., distant '1\ caliles. 'I'here is a dei)tli of 4 fat iioms close east ward of liie alxtve rock i and a rock with a de))th of .") fathoms (»n it, situated l-]. I»y N. .'i N.. distant '1 cables, fi-om the ]'.) feet rock. North rock, on tlie north shore, lies nearly '1 cables from (he shore, and has a de])th of ;') feet on the outer' ]iart. Directions. — When midway b(!lween ^Maude 'sland and Ulunden l)oint, (he fair course in is W.S.W. When tlufeast point (d" Soulhcy Island is shut in i)y the north entrance jxiint, Xonii rock will be jtassed, and the north short; should be kept rather aboaid. Knti-ance rock should in no case be jjassed nearer than one cable, and if working.; in, beware of (he N<tr(h rock, and the saml-liauk alrcaily mentioned as extending oil' (he south shore, and whicli siretches also for a (piarter of a mile westward fi-oni entranc*.' rock. No convenient anchora^'c in less than IS fathonjs will be found, until well ujt (((Wards the liead. When Nanoose hill boars Norih, anchor in l.'i fathoms in the centre of the harbour, oi-asnei.r to eitln-r shore as desired. It is a spacious anchoraire, and well sheltered from all winds. There is a convenient nook with a steep shinirle beach, where a vessel might belaid for re))airs if necessary, on the norlli side, one mile from the head. Supplies. — Orouse are to be got here, beef in any (piantily, and fresh water may be (d»Tained fj-oni a eov(> al the head on the north side. i<rf rlljirl. \<1. 'iH:,. <'li;il». Vl.J NANOOSI-; llAKHori!. — nvMil.NAC ISLANDS. III? Tides. — It is lii^'li w.itcr, lull ami fli<inj.;i', in XaiioofSf liarltuiir, al •"> p. 111. : springs raii,tro Jofet't. The COAST ^'<>i- i; iniifs westward (if Naiioosf is triiif,'tMl with iimiifnms sinaii islands and rfd's. the );' :t'r j^tMU'rally marked l>v kelp. The ftiitcrmDsi of (liein, WinchelHo.i and Veo ishmds, extend between one and '1 miles from the land. Small ves-ifls may find goo I shelter in Sciiooner eove at 1.', miles wehiwaidof :Ii, north point of XanMisi' harlioiir. 'IMiere is a roei< awash nearly in the i;entre of the entr.iuce, but nearer to tho north point. Grey rock, bare. 12 feet al)ove liigh water, an<l rather remarkable. lies 2 eai)!e-! K.X.K. from the east end of Wintdielsea groui». Utidder reef, with one fathom on it, liesa (piarler of a mile S.K. ,', K. i'r(»m Grey roek. and has very little ki'lp on it This vvi-i must i)e avoided by those bound westward from Xaiioose harbour, and the S.K. end of the Wincdieisea islands should be given a berth of at least half u mile. Yeo and Gerald islands li«' westward from the Wiuchelsea. group, and are smiller. Tiiey nray l>e safely passed to the northward, at the distance of half a mile. ■re a one the BALLINAO ISLANDS, two in numl)er, are larger than the groups just describe 1, ajid lie '2\ miles oil" shore. They are about ::'')(l f(!et high ; the northernmost has only two or three trees on it, and its summit terminates in a sharji, bare nippU- : the sonthernmf»st is woodi'd. They have the api»earanei' of being one islainl seen from all [toints, being on'.'.' separated by a narrow passage which at the eastern entranee i,* less than one eable wide, l)ut opens out within, and fornix a sheltered cove with ..neiiorage for small vessels in S fathoms, elnse to its southern samly i>eaeh ; on ihe west siile thi> (diannel is almost elo.Ned, and there is no passage into it. The islands are steep and bold on all sides, and are consjiieuous after passing westward of Xanaiimt. Ballinao channel, southward of the islands of the same name, is a safe, clear passage, 1| miles in width at its luirrowest part (abreast Gerald island). .Sr i-liiirl. No. "mII. i:i <;i;or,(;iA strait, southkrn shoiik. [Chap. vt. Tk Hl.'iiniiTV, (■(ia,-t*'Vri, or vi-sselrt with a fair wind, Miilliiiac channt'l i8 ivcftintiM'inlt'd. Tiarj,'»' sail in;,'- vessels with a foul wiiiTi -.v<miM find if an advantufie to niaice hnif,' hoards, and pass norfhwanl of the islands through the main strait. Cottam reef has 21 fathoms on it, and is treneraily marked hr kelp ; if lies on the southern side, and \\ miles S.S.W. } W. from the highest part of north Uallinae island. The northernmost of the Winehelsea islands kept ojjen of Veo islands i)earing H. i S. kwls well northward of the reef. North-west bay, ■'» miles westward from N'anoose, is mueh exposeil to N,W. winds and the water in it is V(>ry deep : a eon- siderahle stream flows ini'» the hay af its w«>stern enfr.mce. Mlstalien island, low, vooded, an<l half a mile lontr, lit'H I'Ins*' off its northern entranee point, and 'i.', miles S.W. J, S. from the north Rallinac islantl. The COAST.— From Xorth-west bay the land trends, with a slight indentation, nearly West for 11' miles to Deunr.m and Hornby islands, and to the southern entranees of Haynes sound and I/imbert rhannel. This stretch of coast jjresents no remarkable feature, woodeil bhitl's, of moderate height, terminating in sandy or shingle points, ofT which for a very short distance the water is shoal. The land between Nanoitse and Comox district, a distance ol 'H miles, is undulating, and of a moderate height, from the sea-coast to the base of tlie mountain ranges, a distaiu-e of about i miles, and although generally denstdy wooded near to the sea, is lightly timbered a short distance inland, with some patches (»f prairie land. Qualicum river disembogues ;5(> mi'.es westward froiii Xanaimo, and .'> nules eastward from the eastern entrance of Baynen s<nind. It •^ a small stream, only noticeable as aH'ording shelter to canoes or t)oats within its entrance, and as being the terminus of the trail between the head waters of Marclay sou ml and the eastern coast of the island, a distance of only V.\ miles in a direct line, A black can buoy is moored in 5 fathoms, about one-third (tf a mile northward of the river entraiure. Home lake, from which this stream has its somv «:>, is iii miles S. bv W. from the river entrance. •Sr cliart. No. TiSn, ClKip. \ I.] ('()|"r.\.M liKKI'". -It.WNKS SOIM). IW I? (^iiitlitiim l);iy is a sli;:lit iiidtMilatidii of tlic coast, iiiiiiit'iliatt'ly wi'stwani of the i'i\cr, w her*' vitv fair aiidiorairc will Im- fouiul in S or III fallioiiis, at tlu't'i.'-([Uatters of a mile from tlio slioic, with the fast point of lloriiity island licarinj^' N. .', W. : tlu' holdiny <j:iM)iinil is i.'oo(l, anil nortJH'rly winds whii-li would makf it a Um- short' schhini Mow witii any strenf>'th. i'roiii N.W. winds it is in a ^M'cat nicasiiro slicltiTtMl by till' islands, iiiit with thosr from S,K. a consiiU'raldc sea will i,Tt iij), tlioiiLih tlu'i'f would lie plenty of room, and with j^Miod ;,'roinid taekic no danirer of driftiiiu-. 'I'he n)oiiniain raniics wesiwai'd of Naiiaimo are of consideral)!!' lieitrlii, and very strikinj^- in their general features and varied ont- liiies; most eonspieiioiis anioiiLrst them, and midway bet ween Harelay sound and ihr east coast, rises mouni Arrowsmith to a heijiht of .">,',i7l! feet, its remai'kal'le summit terminating^ in. thr''<' sharp well- deiined peaks, rarely tree from snow. DENMAN and HORNBY ISLANDS lie immdiately otv the loasi, i) I miles westward from Nanaimn : the former is '.• miles long in a \V. N.W. ilireiiion. or jiaralKI with the coast, and has an averaj,'e width of "J n;:!"s, iis hiyliesl elfsailou iieiny about iHO feet, and wooded. Hornby island is about I miles across in e\ery direction ; over its we.steni side rises rather aliitipily mount (ieollrey. a i'emarkable tlat- top hill. ],(t7(') fei I high, sloping gradually down on the east side and terminating in a low. Itare, i:rassy point : on the eastern shh' is Trilxine bay, allordiiiL; yood amliorage. On both these islands there is a considerable ((uanliiy of good land, particularly on the latter. Denman island is separated from the mainland by a gooil i)assage ailed IJaynt's sound, atid llornliy island from Dennum by Lambert 'hanncl. There is more tide fi'lt in the channel than in the sound ; in the foi-mer its rate is sometimes "J kmUs, the (IikmI coming from the soMth-eastwanl. The prevailing windsare north-westei'ly, therefore, ••r sailing-vi'ssels from the southward, the main strait east of Jlornhy island is to be preferred. l/ighthoiises are in coinsr oj erection at the soiith-eitst end of henmau island, from which h-ading lights will be shown to clear the shoal ground (di Maple point. BAYNES SOUND, sej)arating Dt'nmaii island from the inain- laml, is a narro<\ sheet of water IS miles long, with an aventge I'avigaide width of i>\er half a mih'. and with a genei-a' depth of .S/v chart. \i.. :.S(I. c ' f. « •2iX) (iKOKKiA STRAIT, SOUTHKHN SIIOKK, [Chai ». VI. IriMii 2(» to •,'() fatlioiiiH, so that, W iit'ceHsarv, an aticlinr niav Ih^ • Intppt'd ill any jiart ; there are. iKiwevcr. two very fair anrhora^es, Fanny bay on the «outli or main siile. and Henry l>ay on tite north or ishmd Hide. At 14 miles from the eastern entrance <■? tlie sound is port AM<,'Usta. into wliieh th)\vs Courtcnay rivt-r, oi.e of th«' htrj^t-st streams in Vancouver island, and in this immediu'e neif,dil)ourliood is a hirge extent of {^ood clear grass land. The exit into (iectrgia strait by the nortli-west |»ar' of the s»»iind, bt'twceii llie north end of l)«>nman island and ca|»t' Lazo. is nearly I wo miles in wiilth, but a remarkable bridge or bar of sand, scattered with large st<»nes, (xt ends the whole way across, itnd at low water there is as little as S feet on it : during summer it is thickly covered Mitli kelji, wijicli never altogether disH])l)ears. The bar is very narrow, and is always smooth : towards high water, vessels of 19 feel draught, by carefully paying attention to the leading marks and ; nay safely pass either into or out of the f?trait Ity this channel. I Yellow island is small and bare, 8<> feet high, ami geiu'rally (»f a yellow colour. It lies close off the south-east point of Denman island, is conspicuous, may be seen fur several miles, and is a good object to steer for coming from the eastward, as it forms the eastern entrance jioint of the sound. Between Yellow island and Denman island there is no passage, the sjiace Iteiiig oi-cupied by a stony ridge. LIGHT. — A squat c' white building with a red lantern stands on Yellow island, from which is exhibiteil at 12<> feet above high water a !/rtni/) fhixliiiKj ir/iifr light. It shows three flashes, eclipses of !.'» seconds intervening, followed by an edijise of l)<> .seconds. Visible s !award in all directions, except where obscm'ed by trees and high land of Denman and Hornby islands. Buoys and beacons.— A beacon, showing J»; feet above high water, stands in a dejKli of ]}> feet at the northern extreme of Maple point bank ; this beacon consists of three piles, siirmounteil by two circular white discs, <»i>e showing to seawartl, the other towards the channel alireast the beacoti. Tin- red nun buoy li.l). No. 1 marking the western extreme of Heef Hlutl" reef, Denman island, is moored in a depth of (5 fithoms. and a red mm buoy R.IJ. Xo.**i is moored in S fathoms off the west spit of IJeef KhilV. .V l>eacon, exactly similar Si ohiirt. No. o«o. VI. Cliap. VI,] HAYNFiS SOUND. DIRKC'l'lONS. •iol ill t'onii iiml colour to tin* M.iplt' point bearon lnMon- (li'is* ril>t'»l, ih fivctt'd in a dfjjtli ol" l*-i feet iit the edije (»f the shonl ground oM Hane Hut. A red ispar buoy is moored in a depth of "21 feet at the extreme of the reef off Vilhige point. Denmaii island. A l)eaeon. showing l(> feet above hij,'h water, stands in a th'pth of IS feet, at the extremity of Union spit, I), miles north-westward of Rase Hat : this beacon consists of a sin<jle j)ije. surmounted by a l)lack circular disc. A beacon, showiii!,' \'2 feet abovt hij.'h water, to)>'''''ting of a single pile suniiounted by a black ball of open lattic" work, is in '21 fathoms on the I'astern edge of (inissy |)oint bank. On the south-western edge of (ioose si)it stands a pyrjimidal beacon, surmounted by a triangle, and 152 feet liigh ; the base is cidoured black anil the top yellow. The ]»assage across Kelp bar, iietweeii White spit and White blulV, is marked by two red beacons in '.\\ fathoms, bearing from each other N. by K. }, K. and S. by W. i W. distant 1,»;<H» feet apart: eacli beacon is a single pile, with a small lattice work triangle on the Jiead 1^ feet above high water. The marks foi- crossing the bin- are two white-washed planks, each nailed diagonally to a liH-e : when in line, S. by W. I W., they form a St. Andrew cross and lead over the bar in 12 feet, a little south-eastward of the beacons. Maple point, which forms the western entrance point, is also very conspicuous ; it lies J ), miles S.W. by W. from \ellow island, and is low and covered with maples, which in form and foliagt,' bear a remarkal)le contrast to the pine, the prevailing feature, l)articularly in autumn and winter, when the leaf assumes a bright yellow t)r orange colour. A sand-spit, which ilries at low water, and is rather steep-to, extends one-third of a mile North from Maple point, and the iJ-fathoms line is the same distance from the shore as far eastward as (^ualicum l^ay ; therefore, neither the coast nor the point should be a]>])roached within that distance. If desired, there is good anchorage outside, in ('» fathoms, with Yellow island in line with Norris reef bearing N.E. .j X., and Maple point W.S.W. distant three-quarters of a mile. Directions. — Entering Bay""' sound by the south-eastern channel, some care is necessary to avoid a shoal sand-spit extending otl Maple point on the south side, marked by a beacon. To clear Srr charts. Ni.s. 580, 5s:.. J so*? ('V'OR(;iA STRAIT, SOIttHHKX .SHORK. [Clliip. M. M}i|>h> l);iiik Yt'llow ishiml li'/Iit slioiild imt lie l»ri>u;jlil In hear imrtli- WHftl of K. l>y N. .', X. : and wlicn passiiiir llonilty islaml, tlif lij^lit Itcarin^' S.W. leads clear (if the ivid's soiitliwai'd and nartlwaid of dial island. ImTuediaUdy opposite on Deimiau island, N'.W. from Majjle point, is Ki^ef bluH", a hi,!,di (day (dilf, wiili a Itare .i,'rassy slope : olV tliisfdilV, for ::* cables, extend some rocky patches i Kelp reef i. marked hy a red spur buoy, which narrows t lie width of the eiiiraiice Ix-iween iIkiii anfl Mai)le point spil lo somethinir over '.\ cables. Wli-ii eiuei-iiiir, il is nronimendcd to steer in nearly mid-cli mnel, or with the low extn'ine of Ktnd" l)ltitt' in line with the low pan of Ship point of Fanny bay liearin^' W. .', N., until Maple [loinl bears South, or mounl Tretneton is in line with, or just shut in by lioyle poini, the s(Uith- east extreme of Denman isliiid bcariiiL! K.X.K.. then steer W.S.W., keeping these marks on astern, which will lead midway between Maple point spit ami the patches ofl' the north shore. .Nfount Tremeton, the summit of ]ias(|Ueti island, is a very remarkable bare, castellated knob, L,!*.')!) feet hi^h. When .Maple point bears H. by S., the tirsl reach of the sound will be well open, and Base flat, a low >;fassy point on the w»'st side of Fanny ])ay, Avill be seen open of Ship point ; then steer n\) mid-channel about W.N.W. Shi]) point, with the land one mile east of it, shows as two bold W(K»ded bluft's, which should not be approaidied within 2 cables. The southern side of the sound between Majile point and Fanny bay for about i miles is low, and shoal water extends for a consider- able distance oti' it : it is recointnended not to stand so far over on this side as altogether to shut in Base flat by the bluti's of Ship point just mentioned. Deep bay. — Maple jioint fnuu the extremity of the trees turns W.S.W. for half a mile, and forms a low sandy si)it : westward of this is Deep l)ay, in which the depth varies from l."> lo :2(> fathoms, irregular bottom, but sandy. It is a small and not very desiralile anchorage, and as the shoal e.xtends oti' the back of the spit for its whole length to the distance of one-third of a mile, the extreme ol it, which is steep-to, cannot be steered for until it bears S.K. : if intending to anchor, the best lierth is in 11 to 1(1 fathoms aboui n, cables East of the spit, and near the centre of the bay. Anchorage in BVJ, fathoms will also be found by shutting oui Yellow island lighthouse iiy the (dumji next to the main l»o(ly (d trees on Maple point. Srr chart. No. 58", chap, vr.] BAYNKS SOUXn, UNION WHAWJ'. 20:^ Fanny bay, «m tht southern sid*- <»f tlu> .s(»mul, 4 luilt's noith- weflt from Maple point, affords a j^'ood though soiut'wiiat liniitpd anchorage. Ii;i8e Hat, the delta oi a considerahh- stream, having its rise in the lieaufort range of mountains, forms its western point ; and Ship point, a bohl wooden bluH", its eastern. Kntering from the eastward, give Ship point, and the coast of th«' peninsula immediately eastwanl of it, a berth of a ({uarter of a mile. Anchor in I'i or 13 fathoms in the middle of the iv.ty, with Ship point distant a short lialf mile and in line with the Kecf bluff, bearing K. I S., which latter will appear as the south-east extreme of Dennum island. The "astern part of the bay dries entirely at low water, and a sandy flat extends a consiilerable distance (»lf around the shores, therefore some caution is necessary in anchoring. Small vessels may staml in to S fathoms, from which depth it shoals very suddenly oti' Hase flat ; a sand-bank dries for more tlian ',) cables at low water. Village point, on Denman island, with a large native settlement on it, is remarkable : it is '2 miles N.W. from Fanny bay, and a sand- spit extends a short distance off it : northward of the sandspit is a good anchorage in K) fathoms, known as Vachie. Care must betaken to avoid the reef, ofl: the sandspit : it is marked by a red spar buoy. Union wharf and anchorag-e on the western side of the soun<l, 1 1 miles above Yellow island, has facilities f»»r loading with cirM lw(» vessels at a time. The southern arm of the wharf exteinls itito ♦) fathoms ; the head of the northern arm, known as the Cargo jetty, is in 4 fathoms. The wharves are connected by railway with the Union mine ; the output is about (!(►(► tons a day. A mooring l)uoy lies one cable off the wharves. Tlier*' is good anchorage, in lOorll fathoms, mud, off the southern end of th(' wharf. A limited s"pi»]y of beef, vegetables, and bread, may be obtained here and at port Augusta. Henry bay. — Denman island, towards its north-west end, falls away into a remarkable wedge shape, terminating in a singular sharp l)eak-shaped ex^^reme, called Heak point ; the hollow of this beak, on the north-wes, side of the island, forms Henry bay, which is nearly t» miles from Fanny bay, and is a safe and ctmvenient anchorage, thfuigh, like the latter, it is somewhat limited in size. The shores 'M <;K(>m;i A sTKArT, s<»i tHkun smoUi;. [('1i;i|). vi. itrc iiiiMloniU'ly lii^^li anil woddcil ; its wrstciii exlifiiic is ;i low Imi Hl«'t^|) «liii»^'li' spit, Willi itric or two trt'cs on it, an<l a cltsif Ix-acli o| llif sarnt' cliaracU'V cxti-ntlH all uroiiiul the bay. Tlie lioklin^^ ground is v«ry yood, and tlic anidioragf in '.• or l(> fathoms in the centra (d" the hay, with the wcslcni shiiifjlc |ioini hoarin^' N.W., when a i-cniackahh' cluinp of iiccs on Sandy island will Im' just (.pi'ii wcstwai'd of il ; here a vt-ssid will li»; a ijuartcr ol a mill' I'rom the ln*ac*h, wlu'rf a (•onsid<'raltlc native villaL,'f is Iniilt. 'I'lic Indians rosort to this hay in larfj;*- numbers during summer to tish. Sandy island. — From UeaU point a series of san<l-baiik's, some id' lluMii above water, otiiers eov<(i'ed, extend in a N.W. diieetion for a little more than 2 miles. Saiuly island, the lar^jest ol" I hem, is two- thirds of a mile from the ])oiut, and (! feet above liij;li water, with large boulder stones dispersed over it : there is ii good boat jKissage through at half tide. White spit. — Two-thirdsof a mile north-west from Sandy island is \Vhi» "Spit, which almost coxers, ami is very remarkable from the nuiuber (d' clam shells collected on it, giving it an ajtpearance of a white sandy beach ; it is connected with Sandy island at very low tides. Kelp bar. — The end of the shoal, which occasionally dries in patches, extends two-thirds of a mile north-west from White spit, and from it commences the remarkable Kelp bar, or l)ridge before mentioned (page 201), which connects Denman island with the lantl about cape Lazo, distant nearly 2 miles. The bar is comp(»seil of sand, interspersed with large boulders, which can be seen at low water ; great (lUantities of kelj) grow on it during summer, and it is rarely entirely without it. It is luirrow in the centre — not above '.\ cables — and with a depth of l.'t feet at low water. '^I'lie western edge of this bar is steep, shoaling suddei\ly, and vessels working in the X.W. through IJaynes sonnd should not staml so far eastward as to shut in a remarkable single tree on the shingle si)it of Heak jtoint behinil the clump of trees on Sandy island, or avoid bringing White ))lutl" (which is 2^^ miles southward from cape La/o ami is very conspicuous) westward of N.W., and when within one mile of it, westward of N.N.W. •Srr chart. No. 5^5. Chap, vr.] u.vYNKs souxn. roHT Arui'STA. io:. To croHS the Kolp bar over its narrowest part and in tlu' (l»'»'p«^st water, stand 'Ih miles throu^'h tin- sound, n(irti\-w«'st ward I'roni llt'iu'V l»ay, until the Iciidinj,' marks on the rcmarkahlt' whitf Ih'UcIi (on tile western shore, ;> miles West from Heak point) are in line l>earin« S. by W. [. W.f.'^w pajre "iOl ), then steer out bohlly N. by K. }, K.. oronadireet course from one lieacon to the other; two or three easts of ir» feet will lie struck at low water, b\it it will immediately de«4)en to ."», I, and shortly l'> fathoms. The white beaeh may be distiiietly s'/eu at ii or 1 uiiles distant, but when entering,', until it is elearly made out, and the beae<»ns on the bar are visibb' (.svv init,'e "201 ), eape La/o should no! be broujjrht northward uf X.X.VV^, nor the clump (d' trees ttii Sandy island ciistwaril of S.S.K. PORT AUGUSTA, in the north-west corner of liaynes sound. althou<,di appearintr t(t be a lar<,'e sheet (»f water at hiirh tide, has its upper part entirely tilled up by a nuul Mat, which almost dri^•^ at low tides, and is formed l»y Courtenay river, which Hows into it.'' The settlement Comox has a wooden |)ier on the north shore with a depth of IS feet alon^'side the end, and at about one mile oH', is a lluds<tn's bay store and an Indian villairc. Some Knjilisli and Scfilcli farmers are settled in the iici!,'hbuurhond. Oil wells have recently been discovered in the vicinity td' port Au^'usta. Caution. — Some local magnetic disturbance has been diiservcd hefe, uboiit "i.', in excess of the varialiuii. bill it d<ies iio( appear In exleiid lievond the port. Goose spit, a r 'markable idboAV-shaped tonj^ue of land, projects III the southward and westward from White blulf ; it is yrassy, with uiie or two hillocks, and bare of trees, with the exception <if two .--idilary small cliimi)s. Goose s})it forms the northern entrance piiiiit of thi' port, and is marked by a beacon ',V1 feet hiyh. Grassy point, the southern entrance point, is very low and swaiiii»y, the dtdta of ii considerable stream ; oil" it, at low water, sand anil boulders dry for 'I cables, and the water slioals suddenlv from 1(1 to one fathom at the distance of I cables, leavin>> a width of less than one mile l)etw(>en the entrance points. For beacon >■■>•'• pa^'e 201 . Directions. — (ioose spir, is steep-t<» at its western end, but shoal water extends :> caWes off its southern face ; and if workinf^ in, the low weHtern extreme nuist not be brou«,'ht southward of West. Steer Srt' plan (if purl Aii<jii-<ta on Ailinirally fliari. N'o, ."iS.') : scjile. in — ;t incht^H, •.'(M*. iiRORCIA NTRAIT, SOrTHKRN SHORK. [rilill>. ^''• in We8t, |mH8in^ a quarlrr of a mile from tlit' spit, ami antlioiiii^' in U\ or 1 1 fatlionjH, nun! hotloni. when it ItearH N.K. distant iJ or 4 cal»l«'s. A littlf morr tiian lialf a mile westward from tlie spit the w.iicr sh(»als suddenly from 7 fathoms hi a few feet. Hounding the spit end, whieli n)av lie done very close, a deep fove extends one mile to the eastward, oi- close u|) to White l>luff ; its upper half <lries at low wati'r. Ixit there is snn^r anehoraye in its outer part, in 11 fathoms, with the spit end hearing S.K. i»y S.. distant 2 cables. This is an excellent place during a S.K. gale, though no sea to s])eak of could get uj) in any part of p<»rt Augusta. Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in port Augusta, at .Ml. Om. ; sj)rings rise I'l feet. Oourtenay river is a deej) and rajtid mountain stream, hul, on account of falls and other obstructi»»ns, is only navigable for a leu miles for boats aiul canoes ; it litis lis rise in nioinii Washington, from whence it Hows in an K.S.K. direction, having a considerablt- extent of rich grass country on either sid«', lightly tind»erfd with maple and pine, and in some parts entirely clear. The rivt-r is full of salmon tind trotit at the summer season ; the river is bridged over. Mount Washingrton is renuirkable, and rises to \i\^) feet : it is th«' westernmost of a range !(• miles in length, terminating in monni lieecher to the east ; to the soutliward and westward of it are several high motmtain ranges and jieaks from 4,(Ml(l to 7.(Hlt) feet above tin- sea, the highest being covered with stiow all the year round. IJetwci-n the former and the Heaufort range to the south-east is P>eilforil valley, through which Hows the I'nntluch, a stream falling into the Coiirte- )iay 2 or '.) miles above the head of ])ort Atigusta. The Beaufort range rises (m the western side of Haynes sound, 7 or S miles from the coast, and stretches 12 miles in ii W.N.W. and E.S.K. direction, varying in elevation from A,')! Id to ,"),1(M) feet : they are very remarkable, presenting 7 or K distinct peaks, whicdi are rarely free from snow. This range, together with mount Washington, form the ejistern boundary of the great central valley and chain of lakes which extend througli the length of Vancouver islaiul from the head of Harclay sound. Set- chart. No. .'580. plmi). VT.] I'OHT Arcil'STA. — I.AMHKTl'r CHANS'KI,. 207 LAMBERT CHANNEL, Ik'I\v<'<ii Dfiiinitn and Hornby isliuuls, is a safe i)aHsaf,'e (i inilcs in lt'n;,'tli in a W.N'.W. ami X.W. ilirt'ction. It is one mile widi' at its southern ciitranff. jfradiiaily incrj'usin^' to till' north-west as it opens into (reory:ia strait : the general (lei»tli is from 'i.'i to itii fathoms, shoaliiiy: to 111 on either side within 'i eahles of the shore. The eastern sid( ol LanilHri channel, hetween Norman point and Shiii;,de spit, a distaiiee of ".' miles, has two },'roiips of meks which eover at hi^'h water extending' nearly 'I cables oil', and tlie shore should not lie a|)proached within a (piarttM* of a mile : on these rocks the sea ^'eiieially breaks when there is any wind. and they are marked liy kelp in summer. Norris rock, on the eastern side, is of considerable extent at low tide, liut at hii,di, a mere jKitch (i feet abrtve water; it lies 1.1 miles N.l'l. .', X. from Yellow island, and three-quarters of a mile K. .', S. from Norman point, the eastern entrance poii\t of the channel : from the latter p(»int some reefs ami fotd ^'ronnd extend nearly 4 cabb-s towards Norris rock, leaving' a narrow passaf^e <d' S fathoniH piviiy close t(» the latter, iuit it is not rec<»mmeiub'd. Shing^le spit is a remarkalde low point <)n tlie east«'rn side of the channel, 'i miles W. by N. }, N.. from Norman point : shoal water extends ofl" its extreme, which sliouM lie iriven a berth of om- cable ; lemjiorary anchora<,'e will be f<iund on either side of it, according; lo the wind : to the northward, in ll\ fathoms, at less than 1 cables from the shore : to the sotitluvard, in '.• or 10 fathoms : but one jiatcli of the rocks which cover, before mentioned, lies 4 cables K.S.K. from tin- spit end. On the western side, tlu-re is anchoray*'. Konias blnfl" is a bold wooded heailland, the north-east poiiU of Deiiman island, from whence the coast trends westward and termi- nates at 'A miles in l>eak point. This stretch of land issh»dvin<;. with kelp patches and shallow water cxtendiin,' some distance oil', and should be jjfivt'ii a berth of half a mile : imleed, after pa^• 'ng Komas blnfl", a ijrood limit in standing' westwanl is Shingle spii <•■'. Horidjy island in line with the south-east jioint of Denman island bearing S.K. j E. ; it is better not to stand so far westward as to open oni the channel between these two points, iti order to avoid the shoal ground in the neighbourhood of Sandy islami ami the eastern side of Kelp bar ; these marks are very prominent, and answer equally for those bound through Lambert oliannel from the northward. S-,' chart. No. f>SO, I wn <jKom;iA KTHAiT, sorrHKiix MHORK. L<'hai>. VI. oil' tlio north end of Ilornlty island \n a roniiirk:il)l«» IxMildcr rock, 7 or H IVct lii(.'li, with sniiiUeront'S neurit ; do not ii|>])roiu-h ihenhore in thirt neiphhourhood within a Ion;,' half a mile, at which tliHtatice are duptliH of from 7 t(t 10 fathoms. Tribune bay, on thp Houth-east side f»f Hornby island, afl'ords ;.;ood anchora^'e with all hut easterly or south-easterly winils, to whi-h it is exposed. It is easy to enter or to loave, and con'.eiiienlly situated as a stojtpin^' i)lace for vessels bound either way, beiniLr ;'».') miles west of Naiuiimo, and Id eastward of cape .Mud>.'e and the entnmce of DiHcovery passii,i,'e.'* The eastern t'lid of Hornby islaml terminates in a rather remarkable point (St. .I(din), t,'rassy, and bare of trees. Of!" it. in an K.S.K. direction, are '2 or 11 small low islets. Some reefs on whit h the sea generally breaks extend nearly half a mile outside the islets ; these should be ^iven a wide berth, and it is n<»l recommended to puss nearer than half a mile to the north-east coast of Hornby island. The entrance of Tribune bay is one mile west of St. .iohii point ; iis eastern shores are bold and ditly, its western low and shelving, with shallow water, and reefs extending a considerable distance off them. Nash bank, the outermost of these <langers, is a ot»e-fathom rocky patch, which must be carefully avoided. It extends nearly on(^ mile K. by S. from Dunlo]) imlnt. There is no jjassage between it and Dunloj) ))oint. Norris rock kej)! in line with Yellow island, bearing S.W. h S.. leads '.\ cables south of it, in It fathoms ; and when the centre of the white sandy beach at the head of the bay bears W.N.W., steer in for it, which will lead the same distance east of the reef. Yellow isl.ind just open south of Norris rock, bearing S.W. j S.. leads half .i mile south of the reefs off St. .John point. With a loading wiml it is recommended to pass the eastern side of the bay within a short half mile, and to steer for the white sandy beach as soon as it is open, anchoring with theeastern blutf of th'.^ i)av bearing K. by N. I N., '^ or 4 cables from the eastern shore, i i '.t fathoms, ssmdy bottom; this berth will enable ves.-els to lea\e conveniently on the ap})r<tach itf a S K. wind, whi(di they should always do. There is anchorage, if desired, in i fathoms, much «;|orter in. CAPE LAZO bears W.N.W., distant lit miles from the easter.i enti of Hornby. It is a remarkable salient point about -i'tii feet * ."vr )tl«i> <'f 'i'liliiniK liiiv <in Ailiniifilty chart. No. "iSO : s le, «<=: •,'•(» iii(rli(.i, >ir Ohai), ^'O (APR I.AZO.— CAPK MITOr.K, •200 lii^'li, flat and j,'ni8rty on i(H rtunnnit, hut woocUmI lu'hinil, and falling' ahniptly to the sea in yellow clay dill's. Altli()ii<,'h a bold-lookinj,' headland, shoal water ext«*nds a considerable distance off, and it is recommended not to approach its eastern and south-east sides Jiearer than 2 miles, as only 4.^ fathoms uneven l)ottt)m is t'ound at the distance of 1^ luiletj. Lar^'e boulder stones dry oil for half a mile at low water. OYSTER BAY.— From cape F.azo the coast trends W.N.W., is moderately hi^di, '.nd sliffhtly indented with boulder beaches, which makes boat latidin^ attended with danj,'er unless it is very calm weather. At the distance of 1,') miles is Kuhushan point, the s<»uthern extreme of a large but not very deep indentation named Oyster bay ; it is a very low extreme. The trees, svhicli might in thick weather be taken f(»r the outer part of the point, begin iJOO yardu within it. Shelter j)oint, nearly 4 miles N.W. by W. \ W. from Kuiiushan, is its northern extreme. A reef, which aflfords consideral)le protection from N.W. winds, extends half a mile eastward from Shelter point. The entrance to Discovery passage is 4 miles aorth-wes. ward from Oyster bay. Anohoragre. — There is fair anchorage u 10 or 12 fathoms in this bay for those waiting wind or tide. A good berth is a little nit)re than half a mile from the shore with Mitlenatch island bearing N.E. ^ E., and the highest part of cape Mudge just open of the low extreme of Shelter point bearing N.W. by N. CAPE MUDGE is one of those peculiar headlands so frequently met with on this coast, and resembles Roberts p(»int and cape l.azo, except that the yellow clay clitf which forms its face is more covered with vegetation. The cape is between 200 and iJOO feet high, Hat, and wooded on its summit, falling to the westward as it enters Discovery passage with a low boulder point ; the high land of Valdes island appears behind it from the south-eastward. A boulder beach extends from it eastward, and at 2 miles in this direction the depth is not more than ;» fathoms. The edge of this shoal is fringed with kelp during summer, anil is generally well defined by a tidal line, and sometimes heavy tide rips, which ii is recommended not to stand into. Between cape Mudge and Willow- point the tide rips at flood are dangerous to small craft in blowing S, r chart. \o. .*>Su. SO 1 11948 O 210 (;eor<;ia stiiait, northern shore. [Chap. vi. weather. The western h)w piirt of cape Mud;(e should not be hronj^ht to bear westward of W.N.W. when entering; or leaving' Discovery passage. Cape Miulge is situated in latitude 41)'^ W,^ o5' N., longitude 125^ VV 0" W. Tidal stream. — The first of the flood stream setii strongly to the eastward, over the shoal ground south-eastward of cape Mudge. Sisters islets are two small black rocks 17 feet above high water, S.W. by S. from the west point of Lasqneti, with Stevens passage, a deep- water channel over one mile wide between them and Flat islands. The Sisters should not be approached too close in calm or light winds, as the tide sets straight past them. X Iilack pyramidal beacon, 42 feet high, is erected on the eastern, and largest of the three islets forming the group. Gillies bay, ItH miles N. | W. from St. .John point, and 2 miles north-west from the Mouatt islets, a small group, which lie nearly out* mile from the shore, is easily recognised l)y a remarkable white patch on its northern point, which is seen for many mih'S, and shows as two distinct white spots. An anchor may be dropped at a quarter of a mile from the beach in 12 fathoms, l)ut it is only a stopping place. Caution. — When standing westward towards the Denman island shore Lambert channel should not bo opened out between the soutli- east end of the island and Shingle spit, nor should cape I^a/,o be approached nearer than 2 miles. NORTHERN SHORK OF THE STRAIT OF GEORGIA. HOWE SOUND, immediately adjoining Ourrard inlet (page 171)) on the n<»rth, is an extensive sheet of water, the general depth being very great, while there are but few anchorages. It is almost entirely hemmed in by rttgged and precipitous mountains rising abruptly from the water's edge to elevations of from 4,(>(K) to 6,(K)0 feet ; there is no available land for the settler, and although a river of ccmsider- able size, the Squawmisht, navigable for boatn, flows into its head, it leads by no useful or even practicable route into the interior of (he country.* * Siy Admiralty charts :— Strait of Georpria, sheet 1, No. r)71t ; scale, m = 0-6 of an inch ; al'vo sheet 2, .\o. 680 j scale, m = U."i of an inch. (Jhiip. VJ.] HOWK SOUND, D|}{KCTION>. Jll The entmnce is betwctMi Atkinson point i^sfi' piif^e 1710' ^^'^" nortli point of Burnml inlet, and (towit point, nearly 1"J luiles apart, 'i'lu- sound penetrates the continent in a nort)ierly direction for '20 miles, and although of such considerable width for nearly 12 miles of its length, yet it is choked by some large and numerous smaller islands, between which are several ship passages. Bowen island, the largest and easternmost, lying at the entrance, is remarkable, mount Gardner, rising to 2,47i) feet, being round, smooth, and })artially bare, unmistakably pointing out the entrance from any direction ; the island is 7 miles in length in a northerly direction, and more than '.) miles in width. Queen Charlotte channel, tli'' easternmost passage into Howe sound, is between Howt-n island and Atkinson point ; i'assage island, only iialf a mile long, but very prominent from the southward, stands in the centre of the channel, and on l)oth sides of it is a ileep-waler ))assage ; that to the west. 1 .1 miles in width, is the l»etter. A tiib'- rip is fre(juejitly met with otf Atkinson ])oint caused by the meeting of the ebb streams from the sound and l^urrard inlet. Snugr cove. — At J :| miles northward of Passage island, and on the eastern shore, is White Clifl" point, and ojjposite, on the Howen island coii8t, distant IV miles, is a double-headed cove. Snug cove, llu! southern of these, though narrow, affords excellent anchorage to small craft in 1) fathoms, sheltered from all winels. Deep cove, the northern, is larger, but with a S.K. wind, when anchorage would be most required, a swell would set in. After passing White Cliff point the width of the channel increases to 2\ miles, and '^ miles to the northward is Bowyer island. White rock is a small I)ut remarkable islet 3(5 feet high ; some rocks which cover at high water extenil a quarter of a mile N.N.W. and S.S.E. from it. Centre island lies midway between it and the south point of Anvil island. Directions. — If bound to port Graves, which is the principal anchorage in the sound, pass westwanl of Howyer island betwet'u it and Hood point. From Hood point, Hope jtoint '>ears W. \ S. distant !1 miles, and after rounding it, a North course leads into tiie harlxmr. Srr ohttrt, No. TiTll. SO 11948 (> 2 212 OKORGIA STRAIT, NORTHKRN SHORE. [f'hai). VI. Bound up the sound by Queen Charlotte channel, a N.N.W. course leads in mid-channel ; pass eastward of White rock, Centre island, and Anvil island, through Montagu channel. Anvil island is '.) inlles lon^,, and the summit, Leading peak, 2,7 H\ feet high, is very remarkable, resembling the horn of an anvil pftinteil upwards. From almost all parts of Georgia strait this peak appears as a most prominent object. Anchorage. — The sound carries its depth to the head, and shoals from 100 fathoms suddenly to 2 fathoms ; the latter depth is close to the mud at Jie head of the sound, which is so soft, that supjjosing a vessel to anchor, she would be certain to drag on shorts with any wind up the sound. Anchorage may be ol>tained off a waterfall on the eastern side of the sound in 20 fathoms, about 2 cables from the shore and one mile from the entrance of the Sijuawniisht river, with Watts inner point bearing S.W. by S. Oolling'WOOd channel is the most direct route to port Graves. At the entrance both shores are steep and bold ; the channel takes a northerly direction, and is for -i miles about one mile wide, the general depth varying from 50 to 100 fathoms. A rock which dries 2 feet at very low spring titles lies iSf miles S.S.W. from Hutt island. Worlcombe island is the outermost of the small islands, half a mile long, east and west, and very narrow. Passage rock lies almost mid- way between Worlcombe and Pasley islands, and covers at half-tide, it lies 3^ cables W.N.W. from the eastern point of Worlcombe islanil, and when working in (»r out, do not stand westward, between Worl- combe and Pasley islands, as to shut in the western points of White and Hagged islands behind the low east point of Pasley island. Keats islar.d is 3 miles long, moderately high, with a bare ciiflty isummii near its centre. Barfleur passagre, westward of the central group of small islands, is a saf«' mhip channel. Working in, it is better not to approach nearer than a (luarier of a mile to Popham island, and the two smaller ones north of it. The passages bet" een the small islands are not recommended, A rock, on which the sea breaks at low water, lies 1^ cables North from the north point of Popham island. ikr chart, No, 67». Chnp. VI,] COLLING WOOD CH A NNKL.— PLUMPER COVPJ. 213 Shoal channel, the westernmost entrant to Howe scund, is convenient for those coming from the westward, and h^ads to Plumper cove, t snug anchorage on the north-west side of Keats ishmd.* The south i)oint of Keats island, which forms the eastern point of entrance to the channel, has, lying close off it. Home island, a small but prominent and thickly-wooded island. From a short distance northward from this island a bar of sand and shingle extends ijuite across the channel to the steep cliffs of the mainland ; the dei)th of water on it varies from 7 to IH feet. When entering, keep rather over to the mainland side about 2 cables from it. Observation i)oint in line with the north end of South Shelter island, or just showing to the westward of it, bearing N.N.E. jj K., leads ON <^r the bar in 2^ fathoms ; but vessels drawing more than 8 feet are recommended not to attempt Shoal channel at low water. Two rocks, both drying )\ feet at low water springs, and lying N. by W. I W. and S. by E. ^ E., distant nearly one cable from each other, lie near Steep bluff. ♦From the northern rock the summit of Stony hill, Keats islaml, bears K.N.K., distant l^^*, miles ; centre of Home island S.S.E. ^ E. ; and extremity of wharf at Gibson's landing W. ^ N., distant 2|'o cables. Pending the construction of a beacon, a sm;ill spar buoy has been placed to mark the outer rock, which dries 'A feet, ami is situated 2^ cables eastward of Gibson's landing. A rocky spit extends from the shore under conspicuous cone, from the extreme Shelter ishind summi' bears S.E. ^ S. distant K cables, and the outer end of the pier at O.osons landing S.S.W. ^ W. Plumper cove. — immediately alter cr<.->ing the bar of Shoal channel the water deepens to 20 fathoms, an<l two smull islets, partially wooded, aud almost joined at low water, will be seen one mile N.N.E. ; between them and the shore of Keats islantl is Phuiiper cove, which is perfectly sheltered from all winds, as, however hard it may be blowing outside, it is genen^lly a calm here. If wishing to enter, pass round the north end of the islets.* Anchor in S fathoms in the centre of the cove. There is room to lie at -ingle anchor, but it is recommended to moor, dr )pj)ing the outer anchor in 10 fathoms when the north end of tue islets bear • St'r plan of Shoal chanual aud Plumper ouve on Adniirnlty chart, No. 5><5 ; scale m ar 3 inohf*. •1! 2 14 CKOIKirA STltAlT, NORTHp:RN shore. [Chiip. VI. West, iiiid running up the centre of the cove, drop the inner one in (5 fiitlioniH ; there is only room for one large vessel, but several small ones could find shelter. Thornborough channel ia a continuation of iShoal channel, and leads up the western side of the sound, between Ganibier island and the main. It is high water, full and change, in Plumper cove at noon ; springs rise 12 feet. Port Graves, the easternmost of the three bays on the south side of (lainliier island, is the principal iinchorage in Howe sound. It is about .S miles from the entranct', and may be reached with great facility by either of the channels already described ; its entrance will not, however, l)e very apparent to a stranger until closing Hope point.* Hutt island, scarcely half a mile long, but very high and remai-kable, lies close oil" the north-west side of Bo wen island, and is a good guide to the port when entering by t-ither of the western channels : from it Hojje point Ijears N. by W., distant 1.^ miles ; keep the Hope point shore aboard on the starboard hand. Directions. — On the wesurn shore, three-quarters of a mile inside the ciitraiue, a shinglf spit extenils out for a shi»rt distance, which shoidd be given a berth, as shoal water extends half a cal)le oH' it ; when past this spit there is anchorage anywhere in 10 fathoms, but liair a mile or more inside it, in 7 fathoms, is the best bertli. When entri-ing by Shoal channel, and bound for port Graves, after passing IMumper cove steer N.K. until near Hope point, and see the harbour open, in order not to mistake either of the western bays for it. it is higii water, full and change, in port Gnives at noon ; springs risi' 12 feet. The COAST from Gower point trends \V. ^ S. for IS miles to the entrance of Malaspina strait. White islet, a bare rock .')! feet high, lies 1!, miles from the shore, (J miles westward from Gower point, and is I'emarkablo, always showing very white. Rock point, — The point next westward of Gower point is named l?ock point ; a boulder reef extends half a mile from the shore just eastward of the point. Trail bay.— At 1 miles N.W. from White islet is Trail bay. There is a very marked c rop in the land at the head of this bay, across * s'k' plan of Port Graves on Admiralty chart, Xo. oS.". : suale. w — :» iiiuhex. Chiip. VI.] HOWE SOUND.— liASgUKTF ISLAND. 215 whioh, by a portage of half a mile, the natives carry their canoes into Seechelt arm, one of the many arms of Jervis inlet. Anchora^^e may l>e obtained off the vilhvg*' in Trail bay, al)rea8t a bluff in the north-east corner, in about 15 fathoms. The Indians (Seechelt) are under the care of the R.C. mission, and their chapel is a conspicuous object from seaward. Trail islets, lour in number, lie a little more than half a mile off' the western end of this bay, and if necessary small vessels may drop an anchor inside them in 12 or 1)5 fathoms. There is a rock which ilries at low water N.W. from the western Trail island 2 cables off the mainland coast. TEXADA ISLAND is 27 miles in length, with an average wi tit li of 1 miles. Throughout its whole length stretches a ridge of ruggeil trap mountains, wootled generally to the summit ; at the southern end mount Shephertl reaches a height of 2,90(5 feet ; towards the northern end the range decreases in elevati()n, but there is scarcely an acre of land tit for cultivation throughout the island. Its shores are steep and bold on all sides, and the land rises abruptly, except at the north extreme, good limestone is founel at the north end of the island. Qilles bay, the only anchorage, and that merely a stopping place, is on the south-west side. UpwOOd point, the south extreme of Texada island, is rugged and precipitous ; stunted pines grow between the crevices of the bare trap rock ; the land behind is more thickly Wv-xxled. Almost immedi- ately over it rises mount Dick, a very remarkable hump-shaped hill, 1,13G feet high. A rock which covers lies 2 cables off the point. LASQUETI ISLAND is 9 miles long, with an average wiilth of over 2 miles ; mount Tremeton is a singular turret-shaped summit, 1,051) feet high, rising neariy in its centre. On its southern side are several boat coves. Tucker bay, on the north side of Lasqueti, is a very fair anchorage. Entering from the westw.ird, it will 1)8 readily known by a group of small wooded islands which form its eastern aide ; its western point is sloping, somewhat remarkable, and partially bare of trees. The water shoals rather suddenly from J50 to 16 fathoms.* * See plan of Tucker bay on Admiralty chart. No. 579 ; soale, m = :< inches. 216 (Jt;oH(tlA STKAIT, NOKTHKUX SHOUE. [Chap. VI. t The anchor<if,'e is in 14 fathoms, with tlw outermoHt iiiul western- most of the small islands bearing N.N.K. and the west point of the bay W. by N. ^ N., which will be within a (juartei- of a mile of the shore. With a strong N.W. wind and tiood tide, the bay, though safe, Wduld not be a comfortable anchorage ; from the eastward, sailing- vessels wt)uld find some ditliculty in reaching it in consequeuce of the prevailing N.W. winds and the narrowness of the channel at that end. Small vessels may anchor in the sonth-east corner, inside the small island on the south shore in (5 or 7 fathoms, sheltered from -vlmost any wind. Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in Tucker bay at 7h. 'M)m. ; springs rise IG feet. Sang^ter island, half a mile long, lies one mile S.S.W. from Young i»oint, the eastern extreme of Lasqueti. There is a deep l)assage of 7(1 fathoms between the two, but a rocky ledge with shoal water on it extends off the western point of Sangster island. Seal rocks, which cover at half tide, lie a little more than one mile W. ii N. from the western point of Sangster island, and it is not recommended to })ass between the island and the rocks. .Jenkins island lies 15 miles westward from Sangster, and close to the south shore of Lasijueti. Sea Egg rocks, ahvays uncovered, lie 15 cables ott' the west end of .lenkins island. False bay, at 3 miles westward from .Jenkins island, and the same distance N.K. by E. fnmi the Sisters islets, is a deep bight but which is not recommended as an anchorage, though small vessels would lind shelter in its north-west corner in 7 fathoms. Stevens passagre, lietween Sisters islets and Lasqueti, is ujjwards of one mile wide. Flat islands, <m its eastern side, should l)e given a berth of a quarter of a mile, as shoubl also Hare islvmds, a small group lying oH' the north-west end of Lasc^ueti. Sabine channel, lietween Texada and hasqueti islands, is agootl ship passage 1) miles long, in nearly an east and west direction, with very deep water ; it is 3 miles wide at the western end, but several high conical islands lying oft" the north-east side of Lasqueti contract the width at the eastern end, in some parts to three-quarters of a mile. Theie is also a narrow but deep channel, Hull passage, to the south- ward ot these islands, by keeping close along the Lasqueti shore. Stv chart, No. 579. ('hill». VI, J LAHyUKTl ISLAND.— .MALASI'INA STRAIT. 217 The titlalstreaiurt tlifoUf,'li Sjibiuc chiium'l run '2 kuotH lui hour, the tl(»od rimiiin^' westward, the ebb eustwiird. MALASPINA STRAIT is a wide navigalde channel, separating' Texada island from the mainhind. its general direction is W.N.W. for iW miles, when it again enters Georgia strait between Marshall point and Harwood island ; its southern entrance lies between U])wood point and the western of the Thormanby islands, and is 4 miles in width. The Texada shore is bold, and almost straight for its whole length, fronted by narrow shingle or boulder beaches. Thormanby islands, two in number, about '){)0 feet high, almost joined, anil upwards of 2 miles in extent, form the south-east entrance point of Malasinna .strait. Lying close to the mainland, these islands appear as part of it, terminating at their north-west point in a steep clay cliff, off which, at low water, dries a boulder point. Hhoal water extends from this point north-west for about 4 cables, and a bank with not more than 5 fathoms on it borilers the northern side of the western island for ){ cables to one mile. From the north point of the eastern island, Tattenham ledge extends half a mile north-west ; this ledge uncovers at the inner part, and has 4 fathoms water on the outer. Welcome pass, separating Thormanby islands from the main, is a deep but narrow channel, about one mih- in length, and as sunken rocks exist in its east entrance, it should be usetl with great caution. A rock, which dries 1) feet at low spring tide, lies with Bare islet bearing S. 4(5' W., ;'> cables ; there is deep water between the rock aud Thormaaby island. An(»tlier rock, which shows only at very low tides, lies near mid-channel, with (lowlland point bearing N. 59° W., distant 1 |V, miles, eastward of the rock the depth is IS fathoms. Welcome point is the rounded point K.N. E. of Merry island ; oft" it a shoal extends for '.\ cables. A spar buoy, painted red, is moored in (i fathoms, with north-west point of Merry island bearing S. 75' W., distant nearly J ,'„ miles. Buccaneer bay, formed by the junction of the two Thormanby islands, on their north-west side, exten<ls in a south-east direction for over one mile, and affords good and sheltered anchorage at its head in 15 fathoms.* Caution must be observed when entering, as shoal water extends for fully half a mile from the northern shore of both islands on both sides of the entrance. A rock, which dries at low water springs, and 'See Plan of Buccaneer bay on Adniiralty charl. No. 579 ; itoale, m = 8 imohes. 218 (iKoRiJlA STUAIT, NOUTHEKN «HOHE. [Chilp. VI. I Oil which the Hteiim-vesael Klla While Htruok, lios on tho Honth wcrttcrn nidf of Tiittenham h.'djje, with Derby point S.E. by E. about \\\ cabk'H. Tattenham ledf^e will bo avoided l)y keeping the onter of the Surry islands in liiu^ with Wolf i>oint and the centre of the beach at the head of the bay, ))earing S.S.E. '} E. Secret cove. — At one mile northward of the entrance to liucca- iieer bay is tiie entrance to Secret cove, formed between Turnat,'ain island and the shore of the mainhind. The channel in, between fieorge i)oint (the south-east end of Turnagain islaml) and Entrance island to the eastward, is half a cable wide with depths of from 7 to 11 fathoms in it. Half a cable S.W. by S. from the west end of Entrance islaud is a rocky patch which covers at three-quarters Hood ; it will be cleared Dy keeping Whitt; rock (2 tent high) inside the harbour on its west shore, just open of the north-west points of Entrance island, bearing N.N.E. ^ E. When past Entrance island, anchonige may be taken up as con- venient in 7 to 1) fathoms, midway between that island and Echo island. Rocky patch. — From Secret cove the coast, which trends north- west, is bold-to for 4 miles, at which distance a rocky patch of considerable extent lies one mile S.E. by E. from Francis point, and extends nearly the same distance parallel to the shore. The least water found on this patch was 7 fathoms, but less may probably e.xist. Bargain harbour is a small harbour with depths of .5 and 6 fathoms in it. The entrance lies between the Whitesione islands (lying abont 3 cables south-eivst from Francis point) and the islets oft" the shore to the eastward, the largest of which are Flat (the southern) and Green islets. By keeping in mid-channel the harbour may be safely entered. The head of Bargain harbour communicates with Pender harbour by a narrow passage, which is available for boats at high water. JERVIS INLET is one of the most considerable of those numerous and remarkable arms of the sea which indent the continent of America from the parallel of Juan de Fuca strait as far as lat. 60° N.; it extends by winding reaches in a northerly direction for more than •lO miles, whih* its width rarely exceeds 1^ miles, and in most places is even less. .S^'^ chart. No. T^TiK Cliaji. VI.] MALASPIXA HTRAIT.— PKN'DKH UAHHOUIl 2r.i It is hemiiHMl in on all siiles by inuuntiiinri of tln' most ruf,'f,'e(l iintl stii|)pn(lou8 character, rising' from its almost periH'ntlicular shores to lM'i«,'htH of TMliM) to H.OilO tVet. The hardy pine, which flourishes where no other tree can find soil to sustain life, h(»Ms but a feeble jind uncertain tenure here ; and it is not uncommon t(» sei' whole mountain siiles denuded by the blasts of winter, or the still more certain destruction of the avalanche which accompanies the thaw o( summer. Apunemnon channel, after runnin<x l)etwe«'n Nelson island aiui the uuiin in a f,'eneral northerly direction for '.• miles, joins the main I'haunel of the inlet ; its avera^'e width is little more than half a mile, the tides run from one to 3 knots, the depth of water varies from 't{) to 100 fathoms, and it affords no anchorage. Nelson rock. — When entering by the western passiige, or coming from the westward along the shore of Nelson island, avoid Nelson r(»ck, which covers at quarter flood ; it lies one mil(! S.W.by \V. ^W. from Fearney point, is steep around, and unless the rock is visible it is recommended to pass outside or southward of it. PENDER HARBOUR is the only anchorage with a moderate depth of water to be found in the neighbourhood of Jervis iidet, but its entrance is so encumbered by islands as to render it difficult of access to any but steam or coasting vessels.* When coming from .Jervis inlet by Agamemnon channel, the passage between Ohannel islets and I'earson island to the south-west, and Norman point to the north-east is the most convenient, but coming from any other direction it would be better to use either the one between Pearson island and Channel islets, or that l)etween the former island and Martin island ; the latter is to be preferred. Williams and Charles islands lie innnediately across the entrance, forming three channels ; that to the northward between Williams island and the main (Henry point) is not one cable in width, but it is the best and has a depth of 20 fathoms. A rock, which covers at three-quarters Hood, lies nion* than half a cable N.N.W. from the east point of Charles island. A pinnacle rock, with 4 to 8 fathoms close aroimtl, which dries at extreme low water, lies with the west extreme of Martin island S.S.E. I E. distant 3J cables ; and the north extreme of Pearson island W. |S. ^I'M * >Sen plan of Pender harbour on Admintlty uhart. No. 586 ; msalv. m ^'S inches. 220 (iKOJUJIA STHAIT. NORTHERN SHORE. [Chap. VI. Halt' a ciiblt^ unrtli-t^ast of Martin island iH a larm'e rock, awaHli at high water. There iH also a rovk, which dries just after hi>,'h water, on the edge of the rihoal extending one-third of a cable north-west from WilliamH ishind. Skardon iHhuids, two in number, lie 2^ cables eautward from WillianiH island ; pass on either side of them and steer up the harbour, which is ovt'r a (juarter of a mile in width, and the depth will soon decrease to 12 fathf»ms. One mile within the entrance, a peninsula extends southward from the northern shore ; pass between its southern point and Mary islantl. AnchoragTB' — Anchor in Gerrans bay, a quarter of a mile south- ward of the i)eninsula, in r»or7 fathoms; there is also good anchorage in Garden bay, just eastward of the peninsula, and abreast an Indian village, in i) or ',5 fathoms. The latter is the more suitable for a large shij). Pend'.-r harbour extends three-quarters of a mile above Garden bay by a very narrow passage with only 2 fathoms in it, and then opens out with a depth of 7 fathoms. The depth in the middle of the narrow passage leading into Gun- boat bay, the eastern part of the harbour, is only 1^ fathoms. The tidal stream sets strongly through, and at low water the passage is contracted by shelving shores. Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in Per ier harbour at 6h. Om. ; springs rise 12 to 14 feet. The western entrance to Jervls Inlet is between Alexander point, the south extreme of Hardy island, on the east, and Scotch Fir point on the west. The points are not remarkable, but the ojjening is easily made out ; it is nearly 2 miles in width, and takes for a short distance a N.N.W. direction. Scotch Fir point is rocky, and has two small islets lying close westward of it, which, like the point itself, are covered with stunted pines. Hardy island lies close to and is nearly connected with Nelson island ; Blind bay between them is useless, and its entrance choked by small islands. Rocks, with depths of 3 and 4 fathoms, are reported to lie E. by S. distant 1^ and 2\ miles from cape Cockburn about half a mile off shore. Thunder bay, formed on the western side 1 ^ miles above Scotch Fir point, is one of the few places in Jervis inlet where a vessel may Ser chart. No. 579. Chiip. VI.] .IRRVIS IVLKT. 'i'il drop an anchor, and beintr near tlu' entrance in likely to prove con- venient. The bay is about half a mile deej*, with a sandy beach at its head, off which 17 fathoms will be found ; iianiediattdy outside it then' are 30 fathoms, and the lead then drops suddeidy to a fjreat depth. Hotham sound, a wide oi)eninK, trends, N.N. W., terniinatin),' at the distance of 7 miles in a double-headed bay ; the water in every i)art of it is too deep for anchoraf?e. Nelson island, in the middle of the entrance to Jervis inlet, is 10 miles lon^' in a northerly direction, and about 4 or '» miles wide ; its shores are much broken and indented by several l)ays, in none of which, however, can anchoni^'e lie obtained in ci>nsequence of the ^reat depth. The island is mountainous, ranj^inir from r)(IO tn l,r)(MI feet in heij^ht. (Jape Cockburn. its south point, is of while granite, about SO or DO feet hif^h, covered with a few dwarf pines ; a rock lies one cable south from it. Captain island, north of Nelson island, and separated from it l)y a narrow passajfe, is about one mile in extent, rocky, and steep-to. One Tree islet, off the east side of the inlet, 1] miles north-east from Captain island, is small, and has a single tree on its summit, which is very conspicuous ; its height is about 50 feet. A rock awash at low water lies one cable off its east side ; just within it, on the east shore, is a bight where a coasting vessel niay droj) an anchor. Prince of Wales reach. — Dark cove, on the west side of Jervis inlet, within the Sydney islets, is 2 miles North from Captain island, and 12 miles from the entrance. The cove Is only about 2 cables in extent, but affords a snug anchoi-age in 1') fathoms ; a vessel of con- siderable si/e could moor within it. There is a (dear deep passage one cable wide into this cove on both sieles of Sydney islets. Vancouver bay, on the east side of the inlet, li* miles from the entrance, is about half a mile in extent. From its head, which is low, a considerable valley extends to the eastward, but the shores on both sides are craggy and precipitous, and the bay is too deejt to att'oni anchorage, there being tJO fathoms within one cable (»f the bank, which extends a short distance from its head. Princess Royal reach. — Deserted bay, also on the east side of Jervis inlet, at the termination of Princess Royal reach, and about ate chart, No. 57S>. •i')'} (SKOIKilA STIIAIT, NolJTHRIlN SMOllK, [('\v.\\>. VI. 117 miloH from tlu> (Mitmncc, in Hiuiill, and uflonlH an indiflVrent anchoni>,'(' in itn .nwtorn part near the \ww\ in about 1(5 fathoms, t^xportiMl to wewt and H(»uth-W('Htt*rly windH. A valloy extendri from tlio head of tho hay to the north-cant, tlirouf,'h which ti trail runs to th(( liiloot't laltcH on the Frascr river, and in much frccjuented by the nativcH in tlic summer scaHon. Queens reach. — The head of .Ii rvis inh>t terminateH in a patch of h»w Hwanipy lan<l throu^'ii wliich How some Hmail Htream«, and a bank dricH oil' alxtut one calde ; it does not all'ord any anchoriifjfe, then* bein;,' :2'> latlioms within half a cabht of the outer edfjfe of the bank. A remarkable peiak, motmt Victoria, rincH 2 milert north of the water'n edfj[e to a heif^'ht of 7,4r)2 feet, and is a very conspicnoiiH object on approaching the liead of the inh't. At the head of Jervis inlet then* is a valley J)y which the Indiana ifo to ClahooHc (Desolation sound) in two days. Princess Louisa inlet, on the east side of Jervis inlet, ') miles below the lunid, is narrow, and about 4 tniles lonj,' in an K.N.K. direction ; it is connected by a narrow gc)rfj[e to the nuiin inlet, which at low tide becomes almost a waterfall, renderin<,' it impossible for boats to enter (txcept at hif,'h water ; inside, like .Jervis inlet, it is deep, and the mountiiins cm both sides rise to 7,()00 and (S,()(K) feet. Seechelt arm, th*; entrance to which is on the east side of Jervis inlet, one mile north of Agamemnon channel, is an extensive arm of the sea, penetrating the land for 17 miles in a south-easterly direction. On the east side of the arm, at a distance of 7 and 11 miles from .ts entrance, are two smaller branches, Narrows arm and Salmon arm, extending to the north-eastward for upwards of 10 miles. The arm at 3 miles within its entrance contracts in breadth to less than one-third of a mile, and is partially choked up with rocks and small islands, which preventing in a great measure the free ingress and egress of the tide, cause most furious and dangerous rapids, the roar of which may be heard for several miles. These rapids prevent any vessel, or even boat, from entering the arm, except for a short time after high and low water, when the title slackens for a very limited period ; it would, however, be hazardous for any vessel, except a very small one, to attempt to enter at any tinu*, although there is a passage with from 4 to 7 fathoms between the islands and the south or peninsula shore. iSti^ churt, No. 57i<. Cllill*. VI.J .SKKtllKI/r AllM.— IIAIIWOOU ISLAM*. The HhoreH of tlu' arm, except near Uh south part or li«'a<l, arc h'lKh ail* I rocky, and in the Hiiintin'r Hfasmi the naiivcsiatph ;rrcat <|naiititii>s of Hiilinoii there. Tides and tidal streams. — li in hi^'h water at full and chancre in .lerviH inlet at (! hours, the rise and fall heini; a))oiii I ( feet ; within the Seechelt arm the lis ■ and fall seldom exceeds <» or 7 feet. Tli»' tidal streams are, except near the «'iitraiice of Seechelt arm, weak and irref,Milar and inliueiued liy winds. HARWOOD ISLAND, off the west eiilrance to Malasi>iiia strait, l\ miles from the continental shore and ahont ii miles north-west from point Marshall, is 2J, miles loiif,' in a northerly direction. U miles wide, from I'lO to "iOO feel hiKh. Hat, and thickly wooded. It is bordered l»y a sandy beach, and at its north jmint is a low triiissy spit. There is deep water between the island and the shore. Re})j'cca islet, lyinj,' midway Ix'tween point Marshall and Ilarwood island, is of small extent, and .'> feet above hi<,'h water. I'.are islet, one mih' W.S.W. from the south end of Ilarwood island, is a bare, yellow, cliffy rock, about 2 cables in extent, and :»l) feet abovi' hijifh water. The COAST.— Westward from .lervis inlet, the north shore of Malasi)ina strait, takes a westerly direction for 11 miles, terminating' at (irief point ; for a considerable distance inland it is low, and bordered by a sjindy beach.* Fnmi Grief point the north or continental shore of Geor},'ia strait, trends W.N.W. for nearly 20 miles almost straifjfht to Sarah point, the south-east entrance point of Desolation sound. Throu<,'hout the whole distance the coast does not rise more than HIM) or (KHI feet, and is but slifjhtly indented. There is a fresh-water stream of con- siderable size 4 miles West of Grief ])oint, communicatinj,', at about ,2 miles from th«' shore, with a lake which extends some -lit miles n<»rthward towards the head of Toba inlet. At one mile further westward a vessel may anchor in line weather for night or tide at a distance of ',\ or 4 cables off shore iiear the coast abreast Harwood island in 12 to 13 fathoms. AnchoraKc must be taken up with caution as flats extend a considerable distance olf shore. When anchoring do not shut in the north shore of Suvary island. .Srr chart, No. 580. !>4 OEOnCJIA STUAIT, XORTHKRV SHORE. [niiap. vr. :; ! I Navijjfiitinff aloiif? this ooiiHt bctwi'on ftricf and Sarah points, a vesucl will avoid danjjfer by kc'epiiif; not nioro than half a mile off shore as fur art Hurtado point, and pa.srtinj,' northward of Harwood and Savary ih>land8. When past Hurtado point, steer more westward, and pass southward or westward of the White, Double, and Powell islets. Sliammon and IiUnd are settlements on the mainland, the former north-east of Harwood island, the latter, at which there is a post office, in lat. 49° 51)' N., long. 124" 49' W. SAVARY ISLAND, nearly (5 miles W.N.W. from Harwood island and one mile from the continental shore, is 4 miles long in a W.S.W, direction, and less than one mile wide. A sandy beach with huge scattered boulders surrounds it, and extends a considerable distance off its north and west sides, which should not be approached nearer tlian half a mile : these boulders extend a greater distance from the south side of the island, which side, therefore, should not ))e closed nearer than three-cjuarters of a mile. The height of the island varies from fSO to 120 feet, and the south side is faced by some remarkable white «'uidy cliffs, very conspicuous from the south- east ; its east (sxtreme is a granite clift', steej)-to. There are several clear grassy patches on the island, but the soil is poor and sandy. A sandy bar or ledge, of one to 2 fathoms water, extends from its west point to Hernando i.sland. A reef extending about 5 cables W.N.W, and E.S.E., with a breadth of 2^ cables, the boulders on which dry at low water, is reported, with the south .*st extreme of Savary island about N. 5°,E., distant '.\ miles. The position is doubtful. All the water inside a lino from Bare island towards the west point of Savary island is said to be foul. Hurtado point, on the main abreast Savary island, is about 2.'')() feet high, bohl and clilTy. There are ;i7 fathonrs water in mid- channel l)etween it and the island. Mystery rook, 2f miles S.E. h E. from tlie east end of Savary island, is a patch which uncovers 4 feet at low water. From the rock shoal patches of from one to !{ fathoms extend towards the east end of Savary islan<l. When navigating this locality observe great caution when going between Savary and Harwooil islands, but by keeping within half a mile of the continental shore, and also by keeping Grief point open to the northward of the north extreme of Harwood island, this danger will be avoided. .Sre oliurt, No. :>tH). Chap. VI. J SAVARY ISLAND, — HKFINANDO [SF.AXD. •)•)■ Ragged islands, lyins,' clns.' to a-id |)anillt'l with tlu> continental .■'horc, arc a rocky Lrronp of small islamls :*.', miles lonj; ami .'{ cabUis wide ; their south-east pari isahoiit *J,', miles north-west from Hurtado jmint, and somo rocks extend 1 cahles from th«Mr north-west extreme. White islet, one milt S,W. from Ha.Lr^'eil islands, is a very remark- alile, hare, white ",'ranite rock, ahoiit 7() feet high. A rock which uncovers at low water lies one cahle eastward from it. I)oiii)le islet.s, half a mile West from tli<' north-west part of the Ha.<,'f,'cil groiiji, :ii-t' sin;'.ll. and alt<»nt '.*i> feet lii!j:Ii, witii a single tree on each of their summits. Powell islets, one mile north-west from Double islets, are iwo in ni!ml>er, small, ahont '.H* feet high, and covered with a few stunted hushes and trees; the westernmost islet is steep-toon its north and west sides. Sarah point, at "JK mihs W.X.W. of Malaspina strait, may he called til." north-west entrance ]>oint of (Jeorgia strait. It is a ronnde(|, rocky point, sloping gra<lually to the sea ♦"rom a height of ahout 7.'i(> feet, at a short distance within it. The coast here turns sharjtly round to the eastward into ^[alaspina inlf^t, Sandi ])oint is situated in latitude ")(> ;{' In N„ longitude I24°r>'J W. Mitlenatch island li«'s Itl miles N,\V. from lape I.azo, is half a mile in extent, !i(Mt fi'ct high, hare and ]>eakcd. Hetween it and tin- Vancouver island shore, distant nearly (I mile>, is the fairchainud t<i cape Mudge and Hiscovei-y passage. Shoal water extends ahout half a mile northward of Mitlenatch island. Sentry shoal, within the limits of the 10 fathoms line, extends ]), miles X.W. and S.K. , the least th-pth found heing 5 fathotn.s, from which the summit of Mitlenatch island ln-ars N. iWl \V,. distant 2,'„ miles. HERNANDO ISLAND, 2 miles West fiom ^Sa\al•y islan.l, is about 2 miles in extent, flat, thickly wooded, and from l2(Mo 17(>f"et high. A ledge composed of sand and huge hoidders extends two- thirds of a mile from its south-east point, and then- is only a depth of 1| fiithoms in the chaniM'l l)etwecn it and Savary island. From the west side some rocks extend olf ujtwards of 2 cahles in many places, and it should not he approached nearer than half a mile in passing. A dangerous rock, which ilries at low spring tid»-s, lies thr»'e- quarters of a calile olf Hidalgo point, ;ind there is no passage between. !«tO Ili^H S>-r ohftrt, Xo. 5««i, mimmmmmm 226 UBORGIA STRAIT, MOllTUt'RN SHORE. [Chap. VI. Stag" bay, <>ii the north Hide of IL^riumdu, udords anchox'sige in J 2 to 1.') fathoms at a diHtauce of about 2 cahK-s' leuij^thsofl' whore, aud irt usi'ful as a stopping place for vessels bound to Bute iiih't or .Desolation sound. Thei'e is a small fresh-water stream in the east part of the bay. Tong'ue point, tlie north-west extreme of Ilernand" 'nd of Staj; bay, is a low sharp sandy point or spi;, covered with a few trees. Vessels should anchor at about thnH'-(iuarters of a mlli! from tliis point, witii tlie east i)ari (»f Twins islands bearinLr N. by W, Baker passagre, 'o tln^ uorthwartl ol Hernando island and leadinf,' from the strait of (rcorfiriii to the entrance of Desolation sound, is alxuit :5 miles lonj,' in a north-easterly direction, and one mile wide in the narrowest part, being bounded on the north side by (fortes and Twins islamls. Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in Hakt-r passage at (ill. Oin. ; springs rise 12 to 14 feet. Twins islands, about U, miles North from Hernando, are two rocky islaufls connected by a sandy beach at low water, covering an exti'Ut 2 mile;- long in a north-westerly direction, and alxnit ou<^ mile l)r(»ad. The northernmost Twin is IIM) feet high, rising to an almost bare summit in the centre ; the southern one is about ;5(l(> feet, and on i)oth of them arc numerous indicatimis of iron and co[)per ores. N«me but small craft sh<add go north of these islands. Some small islets lie a short ilistance o(V their north side. Centre rock, which covers at a ((uarter Hood, is in tlie mi(hlle i>f the passage between Twins and ('(U-tes islands. To avoid the ledge off Kei'f point Uhe south extreme of Cortes island), when entering l>ak»'r passage, bring Tongue point on a N.E. bearing, and steer for it, passing about oik* cable off, then keep midway between Hernando and the Twins. Hlind cret'lc, on the east side of C<»rtes island, ][, miles North from Twins islands, is a basin of about 1 cables in extent, with from 7 to 9 fathoms water; there is, howescr, i)\ the entrance, a rock which covers at a ijuarter flood, rendering the place useless as an anchorage. Three islets, lying half a mile olT the entrance of IJlind creek, are three bari' white rocks about (»(• feel high, almost eonnecteil at low water ; there is a dejith of 27 fathoms ut 2 cables eastward from them. S>-f chart. No. o80. rhu]). VI.] STAfi BAY— SCjUlRREL COVK. 227 LEWIS CHANNEL, oil" tho ontrances to Desolation Honnd Ix'twtM'M Cortos and lifilotida islands, rnns nearly slraiu^'it upwards of 12 luilos N.W., and varies in l)readth from one mile to ',\ eahles ; its shores arc p'nerallv roeky, low in tlie south part, hut rising' gradually to the north-west. Turn point, the south-west entrance point of this ehaiiiiel and tht> ea.st <'.\-treine of Cortes island, is ahout llK) ft>et hi.s^h, rocky, and covered with a few stunleil trees ; and elo-^e in slune northward of the ))oint are two islatuls forming a small l)oat cove. At C miles from the south entrance to Lewis channel, Teakerno arm ])enetratt's Uedonda island 4 miles in an K.N.K. direction, hut is too deep to afford anchoi'ai,'e, except for small craft near its head, and close to the south side of (Mitrance. Tidal Streams. — In Lewis channel the streams are weak and irre^'iilar. seldom exceedint; 2 knots, and are itdluenced ijy the winds. SQUIRREL COVE, on the west side of Lewis channel, 4.^ miles frv)m Turn jmini, is a small land-locked hasin of (ito 7 fathoms water, with room for a vessel of considerahle size to lie at sini,'le anchor. It is entered hy a narrow pa.ssage ahout V.V.^ f<'et wide, with ') fatlioms water, on the west side of the islaml (I'rotection island) in the enlrtmce, which jirotects the cove from tin- southward. The shores are moderately high, and though much hroken, very i»icttires(|Ue and fertile in appearar.ce. To the uorfhward of, and connected at high water with the cove, is a long narrow lagoon, stretching to the north- west nearly across Cortes island.** S(jiiirrel cove can only he entered hy steamers, or sailing-vessels with a fair wimh and the (•|\arl is the hesi guide. Tide. — If is high waitr, full and cliange, in Sipiirnd cove at ')h. dm. ; springs rise 12 fi.'et. Boulder point, *he south-east eiitranc*' point, is low, and nuiy he t'asily known hy a large hoiihler on its west side ; ii rock, which covers, lies nearly one cuhle south from it, hut the point may he roi.in(U'd at a distance of 2 eahles. Northwar<l from Sr|iiirrel cove the west side of Lewis channel hecouicij more rock}, and gradually increases in height ; it takes a * "Sr plan of S((nirr<il rovr on Arlmlrnlty ••liiiit. N'«i .'so : -cak-, m = .'< miles. S0 1194H Pa 1 i '^'f'> (SBORGIA STRAIT, NORTHERN SHORK. [Oliiip. VI, nortlu'Hy directiou for one mile to .lunction point, iiiid then trends to the north-west for 7 miles, the channel ending at Bullock bluff, the north extreme of Cortes inland. At ;{.^ miles from Junction ])oint the d(>ptlis in tlie channel shoal to 27 ami IM) fathoms, and a vessel may anchor in about IS fachoms at <ui(' caV)lefrom the west shore. Vancouver's shii)s anchored hero in ll'.^'ri while cxploriu!,' this part of the coast. MALASPINA INLET, l.\ miles K.N.K. from Sarah point, penetrates the eontinc-it S miles in a S.K. by K. .', M. direction ; it has oni' ijDod harbour, and several arms, at tlie head of some of which there is anchorage. The inlet at its entrance between Georgina point and Zepliiue head, the west ))oinl of (xill'onl peninsula, is I cables wide, which is its general width, until abrt'ast Scott point <in the northern siil ', a distance of 2 miles, when it is C(»ntra(;te I to "icai)les ; this portion of the inlet, however, is so studded with islands and rocks an to considerably narrow the navigable ehauuel. The deiiths in it vary from 'M) fathoms to (5 fathoms. At Seott point tile inlet for three-i|uar;ers <if a miU^ takes an easu-iiy direction, and then betweeii Hillingdon point and th.' north end of Coode peninsula widens out to one mile and again turns to the south- eastward for 2\ mii.?s, and, undi-r the name of Okeover -.irm, continues in the .same direction btr a furthtU' distauci' of 'i\ ii»iles, the width gradually decreasing to 'Mj cabh's. To the eastward of Coode peninsula tlu* water becomes very deej), but at the beginning' of Okeover arm it shoals to 40 fathoms, ami gradually to 5 and G fathoms at nearlj- 2 cables from its head. Freke anchorage, in 12 or 11 fathoms, is at the head of Okeover arm, about 3 cables from the e<lt.'e of the flat that extends 2 cables from the head of the aru\, just al>.n-e Lucy rock, which lies very close to the south-western shore. Josephine islands, about three-(|nartors of a mile within the entrance of Malas|)ina inlet, with a i)assage on l)oth sides, are two in number and almost joining »'ach (tther ; thenorth-v 'stern <tiu' is very small, the other is about I}, cables long in the direcaon of the inlet. an<l not more than half a cable wide. The i)assjige between them and the south-western shore is tuie cable in width, and is to be j>referred. .Sfv chart. No. "isii. J. ('hup. VI.] MALA.'^PINA INLET.— LAXCKI.OT AIJM. >).)() ('.ivi-mlisli roi'k, ;i\v;ish, ;mi| iiiarki-d l»y kolp, lii-s If, ciilili's K. Iiy N. from the suiitli east cinl of .Foscpliiin' islands, aiiil i.s a ilaiigiT that niiisl lie avoiilfil when passiiifx i'ast\var(l ul' those ishnids. Gross islet, distant I }, caiih-s iVoui tlie northern shore of t!ie ndet, and 2:1 «^';i''lt'M K.S.K. from Josophhie ishmds, Tics on the noriheni side of the channel ; it is small, not more tlum half a cable in extent. ROSetta rook, the prineij)al daiiv'tir In eiilerin^r i^Ealaspiiia inlet, is awash, and lies nearly one cable l?i. by W. from Cross isli-t. Thorp island lies close to the s mtherii shore of the Inlet "2.1 cables S. by K. ;, E. from .losephiue islanvls, a rock awash lies about half a cable south-eastward from it. Neville islet is very small and lies close to tlu- northern shore nearly half a mile K.S.M. from cross i.slet. Cochrane islands, a gn.np of several small islets extending ;^ cables in a north-west and south-east din'cli(»n, li»' 2 cables from the south shore of the inlet, and southward from Neville islet. These islands should not be approached too closely, and there is a patch with )? fathoms on it about one cable from their western end. Lion rock, surrouiuled by kelp, lies '2 cablis S.F. from Selina point, the south extreme of Gifford peninsula, and 2 cables eastward of Coode peninsula. Trevenon bay, one of the arms of Malasjiina iidet and 2}, miles from its entrance, runs S.K. I»y K. I K. for 1| miles, and at its head is imly sei)arated from Penrose bay by a narrow neck of hind ',\ cables broad, (^tl' the south-east extremity of ('o(»de peidnsula, distant (me cable, is Houndary rock. The entrance to Trevenon bay is half a mile south-east from Scott |)oint ; the avenifire wi<lth is less than a (piarter of a mile, the depth varyin;^ from 2'> fathoms to 4 fathoms at 2 caides from the head. Off the north-west entrance point of the bay lies the small island Alton, aliuut one cable from the sliore. Lancelot arm branches otlat S»dina point sharply N. Ity \V. and extends in that direction for '.\ miles ; its head is only divided from Portajje cove (Desolation sound) by a low neck of land not niurdi more than half a cable across, forming Uill'onl peninsula, rising Sff chart, No. 680. 2;jo • IKOKUIA STIlAiT, NOITHKRN SIIOllK. [C'lmp. VI. abruptly ti\i'r I'orui^'.' cove lo a lu-ij^'lit of 1,001) ici-t, ami liaviiiL' |»ari of the nortlicni «horo «tf Malaspiua inlet for its Ikwc, wIh-it it is imt inort' than half tlu' heij,'lit. The arm luaiiituiurt an uveraj,'*' width of ♦J cal)h's until near its hcail, wlit-rt) it is only 'i.', cahl.'s wiilc. In the southern i>art of liaiR-clot arm the water is very ilt't'p, hut at ahoul thrt't'-(jnar(«'rs of a mih* from Selina point until half a mih' from the head the (h^pths vary from ;50 to 'M fathoms, and then shoul to 17 fathoms and gradually to 11 fathoms. Vessels of motleruto size may anchor in Wootten 'oay, aljout (»ne cable from the head of Lancelot arm in 12 fathoms water. Isabel bay, aliout l:^ miles from Selina point, on the west shore of Lancelot arm, is about '2 cables in ext»'Jit, and all'ords aiiehonifire for eoastera in from 10 to 12 fathoms. Mary and I'olly islands lie in the eiitr.mce. Thors cove, on the eastern shore of Lancelot arm, li, miles North of Ilillingdon point, the east entrance point of the arm, extends in an K.N, K. direction for il cables with from I'i to '» fathoms. A coaster might drop an anchor in (his cove in about 10 fathoms. At »me cable off Sebastian point, the nctrth entrance point of Thors cove, is Thynne island. TheodOSla arm has its entrance at about one mile from the head of Ijiincelot arm, and exten.ds in a N.K. direction for i i miles with a moderate dejjth of water ami a widtli of '.\ cables, l)ut the entrance to it is so very narrow and elutked with rocks, as to n-nder it for all practical j)uri)oses, useless. Grace harbour, on the iKtrtln-rn side of Malaspina inlet, alxiut 2}, miles from Zephine head, has its entrance between Scott and Moss points, which are about one cable apart in an K.N.K. direction. The harbour extt^ids about one mile N. by K. i K., ami is divided at ilu^ head l)y a jutting point into IJarlands and Carberry bays. Two cables within the entrance points a small island lies nearly in (he middle of the channel ; there is a passage on both sides of it, but the western one is only suitable for boats. At 1 cables above the island the harbour for a short distance contracts to half a cable, and then opens to the width of '2\ cables. Directions. — Having entered Malaspina inlet midway between Georginii point and Zephine head, keep over towards Holland point .Srr chart, No. :i8»t. Chap. VI.] MALASPINA INLET.— DESOLATION SOIJX D. 231 until the c'hiiiiiit'l on the Himlhi'ni .side of Josi'ithiiic islitiuls uju'iis out, and tht-n stei^r boldly throiij,di it uitli (NK-hruno isliind.s nearly ahead (the coin's.' will he S.K, hy K. .!, K.). Kc-p the extreme of the land near Zeithino head aixnit midway hetwrcu ( lie south .side ol' .losephiiu- islands and the south shore, if anything' rather lu-an-r the latter, which will lead between Uosetta roekand the roek oil" Tiiorp island ; when \(*ville islet Ix'ars K. '{ X. steer towards it for a short distance, to avoid the 3-fathoms patch off roehrane islands, until tin- north- west Cochrane island Ijears S.S.K,, when alter course to round Scott point distant one cable and steer up the harbour mid-channel, })assing eastward of the small island lyin^' 2 cal)les within the entrance. A shoal patch on which, however, the least water is 4 fathoms, lies 2 cables south-east from Scott i)oint. The best anchorafj^e is in about lO fathoms, I}, cables northward of the small island, abreast Ka kae kae village. Tides. — The tidal streams at the entrance of Malaspina inlet run about 2 knots. It is hi^di water fidl and change at .'ih. Oia. ; si»rin<,'s rise 12 feet, and neai)s '.) feet. Kinghorn island, ofl" the south entrance to Desolation sound, is about 2 miles in circumference, and from KK) to 5(HJ feet high ; it is cliffy and steep-to on the south-west side. Station island, abont 1) cables in extent and 270 feet high, lies 2^ cables N.M.E. from the north point of Kinghorn island ; two small islets lie between. t V, Mink island, nearly midway between Redonda island and the main, is three-cjuarters of a mile long, one-third of a mile wide, aiul 700 feet high. A short distance from its north-east t'i\d are IJroken islands. DESOLATION SOUND, between the south-east shore of the western Redonda island and Miidv island, has too great a depth for anchorage. At half a mile N.E. from Mink islaml is Otter island, only separated from the main l)y a very narrow passage. Deep bay. — Hold head, the western entrance point of Deep l)ay, lies one mile East from the S(»uth point of Otter island ; three small islets lie S.W. by S. from it, the outer one, Grey islet, being distant •4 cables. The entrance to Det)p bay is about 3 cables wide, which .*A.r chart, No. r>«0. i i n 1 h I !' 2H2 (JKOItCFA STIIAIT. NOUTIIKIIN SIIOIIK. fOhiip VI. width it iijaiiitiiiiirt to ils liisul, a ilistiUUM- ol' iicurly ohm mile, with ii genenii northerly direction. The iinchoraye Hpiice is confined, l)ut small vessels can anchor in a cove at its north-west corner in 1<) fathoms. When entering' from the northward pass between Otter and lirol<en islands and westward of Grey islet ; from the westward the channel is clear. To the northward of Otter island there are small islands lyiiif,' in pairs, Mori,Mn and Melville islands bein;,' to the southward. and Mary and Kveleif,di islands to the northward, ^[elville and ]\Iai'y are the westernmost, the former, which is t.')(t feet hijjh, lu-inj; tiie lar^,'eHt of the s''otip, and the latter the smallest. At half a mile W. by N. from the south end of Morgati island there is a rock which is just awash at high water. Prideaux haven, situated '.) miles north-eastward from Mink island in the N.K. part of Desolati(m sound, affords good and sheltered anchoriig«\ The entrance between the east shore of Kveleigii island and the Oriel rocks is <S.') yards wide, with a depth of 4 fathoms. The anchorage is in the westt'rn i)art of the haven in 7 to !• fathoms. Melanie covi-, the eastern part of the haven, is ent«'red by a narrow channel about half a cable wide, opening out inside to one cable in width with 4 to (J fathoms.* It is high water, full and change, in Prideaux haven, at 5h. Om. ; springs rise 12 feet. Homfray channel. —North-eastward from Desolation sound is Ilonifray channel, 15 miles in length, leading to Toba inlet, and westward through Pryce chaiuiel to Bute inlet. Homfray channel has deep water throughout. Waddington channel, leading from Desolation sound north- westward l)etween the two lieclonda islands, is about one mile wide at its southern entrance, gradually narrowing to aboiit one cable at its northern. At three-quarters of a mile south of Marylebone point (the south- west entrance point of Waddington channel ) there is a remarkable white patch. Pendrll sound. — At ;i miles north-west from Horace point, the south-eastern entnvuce point of Waddington channel, I'endril sound * .Sr plan of Trideuux huvoii on Adiiurultj' chart, No. .')i<o ; gcule, w = SS iuchea. Chap. VI.] DKSOr.ATIHN SOPN'O. — St'TtI, ( .• VNNKI. 233 l»riiiii.li«'s oil' to I li" iiortliwiinl ; it rxifiids ti mil«'s with iiti ;»\(>n»<.''' width of tlin'('-((uaftt'i'rt of a inilo. and iv>arly dividcH *'aM Ivcdoinla island into two paftn ; it has no anohoraijo. Walsh COVG, hi'twt^en thf (fOi's;t'"^ ishmds and the wcstt-ni shotf of \Vaddinf,'ton chaniud, atl'ofds anch(»iMi,'(' in 12 to I I iathonis in mid-channel, t Toba inlet fxltMids in a j,'tMunMl north-tMsti-rly ilircction foi- ls inih'H ffoin thti northern end of Ilonifray chanm'l. At ilr^ciitraii.c lit' Channel ami l)oiil)lo islands, eacli li>l> feet hie;!!, leaviii:: a channel of over one iniU' in width between them; the inh't is here nearly 2 milos wide, j^radually narrowing; to one mile wide at its head. A fair berth is in about 20 fathoms, oil" the Hats, in the north-west corner of the head of the inlet. Care must be observed when comiiifr to an anehor as the water sh(»als rapidly alongside the Hats, the water beiiij,' of a milky colour .i.Tonls no ^'uido as to its depth. There is a small villam'e (Clalu)ose Indians) on the banks of the eutfteru of the two streams which tlow into the head of the inlet. SUTIL CHANNEL.— This »'xteusivecluuuie|, whieh h-ads fi i the western part of Georgia strait to the entrances of Toba and Unte inlets, is bouudeil on the east side by Cortes, and on the west by Valdes and Kead islands. It is 1') miles lonj,' in a northerly direction, and at its entr-ance is tJ miles wide, (lecreasing to one mile wide in the northern part. There are s«'ver,il yood anchorau'es on both shores, tv,'n of whieh. Drew harbour (on the west) and Carrinirton bay on th(* east shore of the chauuel, are easy of access to all vesstds, and useful as stopping; places. The tidal streams in Sutil channel are weak, s»ddom exceedinv 2 knots; the tlood stream sets to the northward from (teorfria strait ; it is high wr.ter, full and change, at t! hotirs, ami the rise and fall is 12 feet. CORTES ISLAND.— The west side of this island, which forms the eastern boundary of Sutil channel, is for the most part low, anil indented by several bays and creeks, in many of which good auchonige may be found. t '*'<' plan of WalHh cove on Aduiiralty ohurt. Xo. 580 j scale, w = 20 inohex. 'S.W t'.KOnr.W STHAFT, NOUTIIKHN HHOHK. iTliii)). VI. Reel" point, its south cxtiimt', lias 11 IimIj,'!' cMiiijMtscd of siiiitl, bouMcrH t'xtt'inlin^' thrt'e-(|iiiii'lt'rs of a mile Irom it ami which cov«'i' ai thn'f-(|iiartt'rs Hood ; oil' its miirr cdyft' an- (i fathoms. Thf fiiitt-r I'Xtn'iiiity is marked l)y a rt'd can buoy ; tin- outer «'dt,'t' of flic reef is just inside this hiioy. Fmm l?o('f point thi- west coast of Cortes islaml triiitds in a northerly direction for '.\\ miU's. is Hat, from SO to l.'»0 \vrl lii^di, and bordered Ity a sai'dy beach extending,' upwards (d" '2 caliles oil' in some parts ; it ifterwards turns in a westerly direction, becominLT r<»cky and broken, with a few ish'ts a short ilistance oil it in some places. Manson bay is on Cortes island, eastward of Mary island. I'here is a i)ost ollice here. "Whaleton bay, <»ii the west coast (d' Cortes island, has a post ollice and wliarf. In tlu' middle of the entrance is a daiif^'erous rock. GORGE HARBOUR, the entranct> to whi(di is on the west side of Cortes island, 4.J, miles N.N. \V. from Hetd' point, is 2 miles lonjj: in a westerly direction, and oiw mile broad at the widest i)art, all'ordinj,' f,'o<id amdioraj^'e in to 1'2 fathoms. The entrance to it is throuf,'h a narrow ^'orfj:e nearly half a mile loiifj, bounded on both sides by stei'p clifl's al)out 2(K» fc^et hi^h, ainl is less than Id yards wide in some phices, with (I fath«»ms in the Hhoalesl part ; the tidal streams set throu^di it at fron) '.\ to \ knots. At the inner end of tlie (lorfje is Tide islet, 2ti feet hifjh, lyin^' nearly in the middle of the chamiel ; the passafjre is to the westward of it. There are several small islands inside the harbour, and the sliores arc rocky, varyinjjf in heijjht from KHI to :'i(M> feet.' Guide islets, just south of the entrance, art' useful in indicating; it, being two small, bare, yellow-topped islets about :.'(lfeet hif,di, and consi)icuoU8 from the south-east. They are steep-to, ;ind there is a clear passage on tdther side of them into Gorge harbour. Bee islets, within the harbour, 15 cables north-west froni the entrance, are two small bare rocks about oiu- cable apart, and (! feet above high water. Brown island, in the middle of the harbour, about '.\ cabh's N. by E. from the entrance, is nearly one mile in circumference, and thickly timbered. It is about 150 feet high, and the shores are rocky. * See plan of Oorf e harbour on Admiralty chart, No. o8U, scale, m := 3 inohea. rha|.. VI.] L'OllTKS IfiLANl).— noUKK HARHOl'H. 2.% Ring" island, it t about mif cahlf tasi I'min Untwii, ami 70 IVrl hi^'li, is uooilt'il. but iiiucli smaller ; Xfw rock, wliirli loNtTs at a i|iiart«>r Hood, lits m-arly out' cal'lc east Irom it, ami should beavoidfd. Then' ar«' two small islands, Stove and I'ill, eacdi i'lO I'cri liijjli and il oultk'H apart, lyii)^,' flortf to the sliocc in the iioithein part of the harl)our. Neck islet, 20 feet hif.'h, lies oil" a Hiuall covi' in the mmuIi- eu«t corner of the harbour. Anchoragre — The best and most convenient anchoi'ji<,'e in (Jor^'e harboisr is in the w'st part, alxml half a mile from the entrance, in 12 fati.oiuH. There Ih also f,'ood anchora;,"' between l{ in:,' island and the north- east part of the harboin- m from 7 to I) fathoms. Directions. — Entering (JorK'e harbour, which can only be ilone in a steam-vessei after passint,' Guide islets, stt-er boldly up the^'orju'e or entrance, ami t; ke can-, on iieariiii,' its north i»art, l(» pas> Itetweeu Ti<le islet and the west shore, the passaf^i' east of the islet beinj;: shoal, when \aul to the north-west, pass on either side of the 15ee ish'ts, and anchor in from 10 to 12 fathoms, muddy bottom, one or 2 cables westward from them. Proceeding' to the eastern part, after i»assin>,' Tide islet, keep m the northward, and roumlin^' the w»'st side of Brown island at one cabli- distant, ami passim,' the nctrth side id it ami Uinj^ island, anchor midway between the latter and the mirth- east eml of thi' harbour in from 7 to lo fathoi -. If retpiirintr to water, this anch<tra^e is more convenietit ; i)iit loaxnid the New rock do not ^o to the southward of King island. Mary island, on the east side of Sntil channel alioiu ',\ mile> N.W. liy W. [, W. from K»'ef point, is of a round shape, about t» miles in circumference, and frt)in ',10 to J 20 feet high ; its shores are bordered by u sandy beach scatti-red with hugt' i)oulders. Boulder reef, e.vteuding upwards of one mile S.S.K. from its south point, is a ledtre about 2 cal)les wide, which covers at high water. From the north part of Mary islaml Shark sand-spit extemls in a northerly direction to within one cal»le of Cortes island. There are <S fathoms in the passagt' between the spit end and Cortes island. Camp island, ofl the west extreme of Cortes island, and 7 miles from Reef point, is of small e.xtent, 1(M) to 200 feet high, and wooded. Plunger pass, between Camp and Cortes islamls, is about 3 cablet) wide, and deep. Centre islet, two cables west from Camji island, is bare, and about 12 feet above high water. Stf chart, No. ">»U. ff 'SM (JKOimiA STRAIT. NfiRTHRRX MFfORR. [C'liap. VI. OiirrinK'ton bay, "n tin- iiorili-\v«'Hr Hiiloof Cortfh, hIhuh '.) imlfH I'roin ('t'litrt' ixlt't, is one inil<' ilccp in un i-iistcrlv direction, iilxuil ;{ ciililrs will*', iinti all'nnlH aiiflHHM^'i' jit '.\ ciihlfs from itn Im'shI in iVom 7 to 1 1 fiiltiMinH, Alon^ itrt north Kiil(> an* sonn- Hinall islets, ami a I'ock which nncovcfH at low water, hut if intemlinir ('» anchor in the l>ay, keep ahoiit one cahic from the south shore, wliicli will clear all (hiUger. At the head of the hiiy is a lar^*' salt-water lagoon. Von Donop creek, the entrance of which is ;'»[, miles from Centre islet, is lon<,' and narrow, |)eneti"iting Cortes isluiid in a Houth- easterly direction for npwanis of '.\ miles. There is ^'ood anchoraue in .*) to li fathoms near its heail, hut the entrance hein^r only iiii yards wide in some places, with 'M, fathoms in one spot, do not use it as a sto]>pinfj phice, for Carriu^ton iwiy in much more couvfuit'iit and easy of accoHH. VALDES ISLAND- From cape Mudfje, the south extreme (»f ValdcH island and the south-wesl entrance ])oint of Sutil channel (sfr l)af,'o ;2(H)), a l)ank extends in a south-easterly direction for nearly 2 miles, and until w«'ll insid«' the channel the cape should not he ap)iroached within that distance. The coast of Valdcs turns sharply round the cape N.N.W., trending in a straight direction for ').j miles, and bordered the wholo distance Ity a beach extending off upwards of one cable in nmny i)arts. The land is Hat, and heavily timbered, but appeal's very fertile. Drew harbour, on the east side of Vaides island, I) miles from cHi)e Mudge, is about one mile deep, .'5 to I cables wide, and rendered perfectly secure and land-locked by Rebecca spit, a narrow strip of land ('» to S feet high and open wooded, whiidi forms its eastern boundary ; its shores are low, and bordered by a sandy beach. ^* The anchorage, in 1> to !.'» fatlu»nis, s;indy bottom, at half a mile from its head, is the best in Sutil channel. Heriot islet, lying north-west of the entrance, is about ^'50 feet high, rocky, of small extent, and separated from Valden by a narrow boat pass. In the bay to the south wanl of it is fair anchorage, and fresh water may be procured ; the depths, however, in the entrance to it are irregular. If intending to anchor in Drew harl)our, round the north i)art of Rebecca spit at a distance of about one cable, proceed up the harbour * Sir plan of Druw hurbuur ua Admiralty ohart, No. 680 ; BOftle, m = S inches. Chap. VI.] VALUKM IfJLANM).— UKAU l«LAXU. iM In mid-chaniifl, smd iinchor iit sibniu half a milt' from itn h»wl in \!t to '.( fiitlioius. 'IMi<> cast sill*' of l{i'))«'C(M Hpit nIioiiM iioI Ix* ap|trourluMl witliin '2 cablts. HyaolnthO bay, "n Valdcs islaml. U milfs iiortli-wt'Ht of I)r«'\v harlMHir, is uf small cxtfiil, with sumc li! tn „'!> fathomH \viit»'r, luit iilVofilH no aii<'hoi';ij,'i' ; a small mck 1 li'ft alnivf hiu'li wati-r lii-s in the iniildlf III III*' ciili-aiicr. Open bay, lialf a milr north fi-om llyacinthf hiiy, and HcpiU-atcd from it l)y a roi-ky point, is half a mile in I'xtt'iit, with from 10 to \'2 fathoms water: but as the hotloni is rcicky. and the hay open to the south-east, a vcsst'l should not anchor there. Breton islets, ll> IVet hi;,'h and extending' npwardri of one mile S.K. from the north pari of Ojten hay,ar(>Htnall,and from the outer one, whicii is wooded, a vi'i'i' extends ',\ eahles, covering at a (|uarter flood. HOSKYN INLET, f..rmed h.tweeii [{.-ad ;.nd Valdes islan.ls, JH 7 miles loiif,' in a northerly direction, with an avera^'e hreatlth of two-thirds of a mih- ; the sliores are hroken and rocky, with soint' small islands off tiie south entrance and alonir the east side, and there is no anehora^'e within il, excejn f(»r small craft. 'I'his inlet contracts at its northern end to a very narrow i)assaj,'e leading' into Drew pass, hut as it is choketl with rocks and tlries at low water, connectinj,' Read and Vahles islands, the only exit is l»y the southern ontnince. Village bay, on the west side of this iidet, jusi within the entrance, is about (me mile dcej) and one-third of a mile wide, with from 12 to 21 fathoms water, but afVonls no irooil amdmraire ; thert* IB a larf,'e village at its head. READ ISLAND, bordering,' the west side uf the north-west par*" of Sutil channel, is '.• miles lonj,' in a northerly direction, and from one to ',\ miles broad ; its southern pari is low, but rises fjfradually to the northward to l.tiOS feet ; the shores are rocky, steep-to. an<l niuch imlenttnl, especially on the east siile near the middle. Viiier ]K)int, its south extri'iue, 7 miles north from cape MudKe, is bare and about H) feet above high water. Tlu- east side of Read island to the nortiiward of the I'cnii islands is rocky. I' S>-'- chart, No. 680. 2;<H OKOR«:iA STRAIT. [f'lmi). VI. Burdwood bay, on the east side of Read iHland, 2 miles from Viner point, is alxiiit oin- mile wide, 2 to '.\ cablen deep, and containr; several small islets. There are \'2 fadionis water at a short distance oir shore, in its nortli and soutii parts, where a vessel may stop in line weather, hut llie hay is open to the south and east. Evans bay, the next inlet on the east side of Head island, to the northward of Ihirdwood hay, is alioiil ',\ miles loni,' in a northerly direction, 1.^ miles wide ul the enlranee, and hranehes oil' in two Mar>'ow arms near its head ; its shores are roeky anil mueh hrokeii. and (here is no anchorai,'e exeei)t in Bird cove, on the west shore, where small eraft may linil sludter. Frederic point, the north-east point tif entrance to the hay. is liold, and may he approached to within one eahle. Hill island, just ouisiile the entrance to Kvans hay, is of small extent, hut conspicuous: its summit heiny: I'.lo feet hitrh, the coast is rocky. Penn islands, lour in nir.iil)er, n»'ar the middle of Sutil channel, northward of Kvans hay, cover an extent about l\ miles lou!/ and one mile wide ; they are rooky, covered with stunted trees, and their ^'reat est elevation is about '27(1 feet. Do not ventureamonj? them. A rock awash lies SO yards X. '),'>' K. from the north p<»int of the eastern island. Directions. — Knierinf,' Siuil channel from (Jeorfjfia strait, pass half a mile on either side of Miilenatch island : when past Miihtnatch island kc-jf it on a S.K. by K. bearing.', ami steer N.W. by W. till the south i)art of Mary island l)ears X.K. by N. : a vessel will tlu'ti be clear of the I'xuilder reef. 'I'lience, steering; about X.N.W. or X.W. by X., and passinir aliout a i|uarter of a mile westward of Centre islet, steel- up mitl-eliannel, eastward of I'eiin islands. A Vi'ssel may beat thronj^di this channel, luit till past the danjjers in the south part it wonhl not lie prudent to m-ar the south-west sides of (Jorttvs and Mary islands within \}, miles when standing,' «'ast ward ; and when slandin^r towards cape Mudj^'e dn not approach it within 'i miles, or brinij Mitlenatch tn the eastward of K. by H. .\ S., until the cape b"ais S.W'.. when a vessel may stand to within half a mile of the Valdes shore, if intending' to anchoi', Drew harbour and .'<'■< .'harf . N*o. 580. Chap. VI.] SUTIL CHANXKL. -CALM CHAXNKL. 230 Carriiiy:toM hay arc easy of access for any class mI" vcssi-l, ami an* but little out 111" the rt'^^'ular track. CALM CHANNEL, north of Lewis ami Sutil chauiu-ls, leailinvr from liiein to Hiite inlet, is '.• luih'S loii^' in a X.W. hy W. dirt'ciiou, ami ahout one mile hroad ; its sliores rise ahrnptly to a yrent heiyh' and the tidal stri'atns are weak except in the north-west pan. Calm channel is not well adapteil for any vesstds ixi-ept sleamers as there is i,'t'n<-rally hut little wind, and no anchori^re. The channfls known as Hoh- in tix- Wall, and Okishollow. ai'f no; recommendeil, they are encnmben'd l»y roekn and rapids ; small sti'amcrs, however, use ihem to reach the lo^jtrimr eauip a! W'yait. Tides. — It i> liitrh w.ner, full and chan;.'e, in ('aim ehaunid at 7h. <>m. ; spring's rise 11 teet. In .Sur>,'e narrown at t'di., a]>!'inKH rise ]'l feet, and the streams run from 7 to '.t knots. Rendezvous Islands, three in numher. which lie on its W"sl sid»' near the south jiiri, eovir an extent ;> miles lony in a W.N.W. direction, and aiiout half a mile wid«' : the eastern island is il.Vl feet, till' middle iidl) feel, and the western t'ldl feet hi^'h. Drew |iass is a deep p;issa>;e heiweeii the Rendezvous isl; nds and the north part of Ucad island ; and lietween the mi ldt<' ami eastern- moHt Inlands is ii small s|iot with fnun 7 (<» l.'» fathoms water, where a small cntft may anchor. It is hi^'h water, full and change, at the KendexvoUH islands at Th. dm. ; spriu;^ rise I I feet. Raza island, l\in>:at the northern entranci' to Sutil «diannel, is i\ miles litUi^ ikorlii and south, and '.' miles \n ide east and west, und ll,d'id feel hij.'h ; a portion of iis south side, whi(di foriuK the northern side of Calm clianmd, is clifVy. North passau'c, lui the west side of Wa/.a iHlaml, coiumunicat«'H with Hamsay arm wiiiih indents I'le roniineui in a n<>r<iiei'|\ <!ireclion for 7 miles and has deep wad r. Deer |lass:k^M>, heiweeii U'a/a a!id Uedoiida islands, i miles lonu and \]j miles wide, connects I'ryce channel with Sutil chiuni';. Stuart Island, at the norlhein li rminalion of Calm ( h; iind, and in the entrance )»f Mute inlet, is alMnii I miles in extent, of an Uiuhtlatinix Hurface, rising; in s<unc parts to cSno mid l.nno tVet. lis .s'c r'niirf Nil. ."isii f ;ilo (iEUlHiiA rt'lKAIT. \i'U.i\>. VI. 5 1 ; if ■ii 111! !;f coawt is ifx^ky ; iiiiil tlu' titlal sliviiiiiH Ht't fltronKly rouml its north ;m<l \v«'St sith's, l>iit ihcro is a «'lt'ar passage into Miitf iiiii't caHtwartl of it, nearly <»in' mile wide, in wliicli very littli- stream is t'elt. BUTE INLET.— This extensive arm <>\' the sea, which j»eMvtP:\t('s llie eniitinent fur nearly lo miles in ii wiuiliii;? conrs' to the nortli- ward, presents many similar feidiires to .larvis iiilei i |iaj,'e "ilS), the ;,'enpral hrtsiilth \aryiiij,' from one i<> 'i miles, and the siinres on liolh siiles rising' alirnptlx and almost jjreeipitoiisly in nian.\ plaees to stupendous mountains Irom ."».tMl(i to .S,(MM» frtt hiiirh, wliose summits are t,'enerally <'overeirAiili snow all the year rouml. Ai the head are two extensive valleys, oue iK'neti'atiiif,' norih-wesl and the oilier south-east, from whieh llow streams; the one lo the wrsi- ward, is railed liy tli<' natives I!(.malko river. Oll'these rivers some saml-hanks extiMid a short distance, alloniin;.' indiU'ei-eni ;iU(horaj,'es ne.ir llieii- oifter t'llges ; Ittii llie soundings iverywhert' else in the iidet are very deep. The water lor some distaiire Inun the In-ad i-; nearly Iresh, ami •)! a milky white appearance ; in the summer months there is a constaiii outset, vaiying in sireiiglh from one to 2 knots. Tides. In r>iiie inlet it is hiirh water at ("di. dm., and the rise and fall varies fr I',' to I I feet. Arran rapids, ;ti the intranci uf r.uie inlet on the west side, lielweeii Stiiait islaiul and tlu' c(»utineni. are one cable wide in the narrowest part. The streams rush through with gn'iit .Htnngth, 7 to '.• knots (the llooil from ih' westward), ami it is very hazardous for a Vessel to go tlirouirh. Orl'ord bay, on the east side of the inh'i, r.» miles from the entrance, in td' small extent, with il,'» fathoms (d«ti<M- to the cdg(> of the hank, which extends from the head. A small veswel may use it a^ a stopping place. Wadding-ton harbour, ii tiie head ..f the inlet, i.eing in fact its lermination, is ah<m( ".' mih-s in extent, and aMords very indiU'ereiit anchor.ige oil' the i dye of (he hatiks, exieiid iiig front the lloma'ko and Southgate river.-> and oil itH cant shore ; th«w hanks are n'lxtrted to I'rcfpientlv ' liaiige, Kxcept in the vicinity of the rivers the hind rises almost precipitouisly to |,(M'<I and .'i.tMMl ffct, is H'ost sterile and ChiH). VI,] UlTTK INLET.—CARDKRt) (IIAN'M-II,. •241 rocky, ooven^l witli rttimt«Ml piiu's, Tlic Ixsi aiu-lntnif^'c is lu-ar ihn iiortJi part, about 'lalf a mih' oil' Hliorc, in l.'> t'atlioniH, hut it 'm t'XportiMl to tlu' Houih-wi'Ht,antl ntronj,' wiiidw froPi tiiis tiuurter \\(»u!il make tho Hiichoraye unplrartant, if not uu.siifc.* It Ih higli water, full and cliaM^'c, in \VatliUns,'ton liarhour at tJh. Oin. ; H|)riti{^'w rise IIJ feet. Homalko river enters Waildiufrton harbour tui the 'vent Hide, and is a mreain <»f conHidi^raltie extent, \vindin>jr to the norlh-woHt ihroui^h a lari^'c vitlui.v. At th»* entrance is a bar with i»niy one to 2 feel water over it at low tide, but within, tin- water deepens to one ami ;{ fiithoniH : tin- breadth varies from 50 to 'itMl yards, and llie rivr is navi^'Hl)le for boats and small steamers several miU's. The shores for 2 miles from the entrance ar»' low and swampy, covereil with willows, but further up on the western side the laml rises I or .") feet above hij^h watcr,and apjiears very fertile, ihou^fh heavily tiinber»d ; the oppositi' si«le is steep aiul rocky ; in summer months I he current runs '> knots out of the riv«'r. From the sources of the Homalko river there is u route to the V'old-iniuin^ rej^ions in the fur nctrth of Hritish (.'oliimbia. Direotions. — To navi^'atc Mule inlet but few directions are re»juirH(l,- it 'ntendiiif,' to anchor in Waddinjyton harbour, when m-arinj? it, steer for ith north jart, atuiiorini^r at about three-quarters of a mile oil" the head in I') fath;»uis, anilalxMit IJcaldes from the hi;,'h northern shore; the anclior should be droj)peil immediately I') fathoms are obtained, as th« bottom shoals rapidly. SailiiiH:- vessels enterinf^ or leavinj,' the iidt-t should ket'p close to the (tastern shore, or the eb'o tide may take them throu^'h the Arrun i~ii|iid8 to the westward. OARDERO CHANNEL, communicating' by Nodahs chanmd witli hiscovery puss;i^e and .iolmsione strait, winds in a j,'enenil east and west direction for [[\ miles, with an average width of one mile at the euHtern Jiart, but only half a mile in the western ; its shores are (ftmeruUv rocky and tnotinta'noiis, and the chann*-l is stutlded with numerous small islands, aitd it is not without dan^'ers. the water in most purtH, hovv»>ver, bein^ very deep. Htujirt itsland lies iicroHH the eastern entrance of ("ardero channel, almost blockinii; it, but leaving narrow passages both to the north- * Sif plan of \N iMldiii^i'liiii hiiriinni- mi .Vdiiiirulty ctiart. .No. r>si) ; Miuilf, m = U' inehfiH. SU II MM (iBOROIA STRAIT. [Chftl). VI. 1 ward and southward ; the former, Arrau nipidH (w pafre 240), owing to itH narrownt'Hs and the ntrenffth of the tidt', wliich ruHhes tlirough it at tlio niti^ of from 7 to IJ Itnots, iw not nuvi^nil)]*' t'xci'i)t at ^rwit rink ; tho latter, half a mile wide, is also not recommended, as at ilH northern end the tide runs directly at right angles to a vesBel's course at the rate of from (J to 7 knots. At 21 miles within the entrance Dent inland causi'S further obstruc- tion l»y contracting the chiinnel to ',\ cal)les, which narrow passage is fidl of dangerous r.ii)idrt, overfalls, and whirlixtols, with the proha- l)ility of the t-xistenc*' of sunken rocks; therefor** it cannot he considered Siife or prudent to t-nter or leavt- Cardero channel by its eastern entrance, and it is advised to carefully avoid that part of it which is eastward <»f Ih-nt island. A. rock, which nearly dries, lies a (juarter of a cable off shore, half a mile \V«'st from .lohns point, and southward of Chauue island. A sunken rock lies about a quarter of a mile S.W. from the southern j)rojection of Stcu'p point, west side of Stuart island. There is no passjige northward of the small island lying K. J N., distant 7 eal)les from (Jreene point ; rocks which dry at low water lie between that island and the islands a (piarter of a mile eastward of it. Southward of these rocks there are rapids, but these are stated to be ilaugerouH at any time of tide. Anohoragres. — ('anlero channel has but few j)laces that afford anchonige. Iliekley bay on the north side of Thurlow island, anil nearly opposite (o I'hilipps arm, isa))out W cables in e.xtent with from }(i to 21 fathoms water, and lu'ar its heail (! fathoms. Vct;sels may alfio bring up in l.'i fathoms in Crawford anchorage inside the Erasmus islands on the north shon' of Thurlow island, 1^ miles N.E. by K. from Mayne passage. Mayne passage, '.\}, mih-s eastward of Loughborough iniet, and also on the north side of Thurlow island, aH'onls sludter in f;om 1> to 1') fathotns water. This passage braiuhes off to the southward and westward, pr<d)ably (communicating with .Jnhnstojje strait, but it has only been partially examined ; it is, however, reportetl to be a gooil clear chaimel. Caution. — When bound from Ihite inlet to the north-westward, vessels should proceed to the eiiHtwaitl of VaUleHaml K«'ad islands l)y the Calm and Siitil clianmds, romul cape Mu<ige, uinl through iSff chart, No. '.80. < Imp. VI.J CARDKIIO CFIANNKL.— LorcHHOnorcJII INLKT. 24:< Diw'nvf'i'y piiHrttj^f. luul ii<»t attcmjit to sliorton the diHtanco Ijv uhIu^ OanltTo {haniicl. Tidal streams, — Tlu" stnaiuH in Canlcin c'lmniu'l run at t\\v nitf of from one to :l knots in llu' wt'Htcrn part, incrraKin^to ii and 4 knots castwanl of Xodalcs clianiu'l ; Ix'twccn Dent island and iiuM'a«t»'rn ••ntraiu'f til til*' inlt't tJH'V run with urcat ra])iility, cHpt'cially in thf narrow passage hctwccn Dciit ami Valdt'S islands wiiich, as Ix-forc ol)sorv('(|, is full of whirlpools and overfalls. Frederick arm l)ran('lu's northward from Cardcro diannol, (tpltosil(> Hall point, and «'xt('nds about llmM- miles in that direction* shualinj,' ^rradually at its licail towards a stream whieh here enters the inlet tlowin^r from a shiel of water extending: sonu' distance to tlu' northward, and known as the Estero basin. The Hats usually found extending' a eonsider.ible distance from tho shore at the head of most of the numer<ius inlets or liords, and which are invariably stei'|)-to, oiily extend a very short distance oil' shore at the head of Freilerick arm, ami are not so steep-to, and it, therefore, ajjpears to ;dford a better anchor.i^'e than any cd' the other inlets on ihe mainland, bein^' only exposed to tin- southward. Anchoni^je may be had at a reasonable distance from the shore. Phillpi^S arm, lylnLj immediately westward of Frederick arm, extends about .') miles in a N'.N'.K. direction, shoaling' gradually oil" the Hats at its head. LOUGHBOROUGH INLET penetrates the continent for 17 miles in a imrtherly ilireeiitui ; it has much (he same chanicter- iHtics as most o|' ihf arms that indei t the north-west coast of North .Vmerica, beimr almost hemm<>d in by precipitous mountains rising abruptly fnun the hhore, and haviiifs' creat depth of water with but little anehor;4,'e. At the entrance beiweeji Styles and iirismiind points, at iis junction with Carderoand Chancelhu- channels, the inlet is iibotit S cable^ wide, which is the avennje width to within about one mile from the head, when it opens out to I . j miles. VV«»m the entrance the inb't extends north for tl miles as far as Cosby jMiitit, whieh projects from the west side, its direction for 7 mill's in then N. by W. }, W.. turninK' <i' 'I'owry h«'atl into (?o<»per rt-iiih, which taki's a ireiitle curve beiueen X.K. ami North for I miles to th<> heM<i, torminatin^ in Fruser imd Mcliri«le LuySv vvhicii uru SI ) 1 I ♦••'» ^W uhort, No. 5»U. <J i ii lil 2(4 CKfHUWA STRAIT. [Oha]). VI. 8<>p!ii*sit«Ml by l*»ti pciiiit jiittiitK <»ut in the coMtri'. Tin- latter Imy un'onlH uiichoni^'e in alxtut ;:.'.') fathoniH at ',\ vuXAm fruin the uhore ; in the former the water iH very deep until close in. Sidney bay, "2}, miles South from Cosby point on the went shoro, and t»i niih'S north from Styles point, extends about three-(iuarter« of ii mile to the westward and is about (me cable wide, attording aiichoniKe for coaHters near its head in IG fathoms. Beaver creek, on the w«'Ht shore of Longhboroufjh iidet, I milps within the entnince, extends "2 miles in a south-westerly directi<m, varyinj,' from one to '.) cid)leH wide, and shoaling ^nitlually towards it.s head, where <,'oo<l and sheltere*! anchoni>;e nuiy be obtained in 7 fath(»ms ; anchoni^e may also be (tbtained in about J.') fathoms in mid-channel westward of (Joiit islands. Do not pass n«)rthward of Goitt islamls (lyiii^' half a mile within the entmnce), as the> are connecteil to the nortli shore by a flat which dries at low water, (lood water nuiy be oi>tained from a stream at tlie hea<l of tlie creek, and firewood (cedar) nuiy be cut for steaming purposes." Tides. — The tidal streams in lioughborough inlet are not strong, seldom exceeding a rate of from one to Ii knots an hour. It is high water, full and change, in Meaver creek at .'Wi. (hn. ; springs rise IG feet. • Sff plan of IWvpr creek on Xdmirivlty oliart. N'o. ."(80 ; scale, vi = Hu in(>he». 'ill 1 i 1 . 1 { ' 1 1 ) 1 24i> CHAPTER VII. FROM GEORGIA STRAIT WESTWARD TO CAPE SOOTT AND THE SOOTT ISLANDS. £1 Variation 24° E. in 1898. DISCOVERY PASSAGE, formed between th*- west side of Valdt'H iHland and the Vancouver coaHt, ih the only nafe navigable outlet from the nortli part of Cfeorgia strait to tlie N.W. Its lengtli in a N.W. and S.K. direction from cape Mudge to Chatham point in 2A^ uiileH, and itH average breadth a little more than one mile ; but at Seymour narrows it contnicts to less than half a mile. Its shores, southward (d' the narrows, are moderately high and apparently fertile, but northward of theui steej), rugged, and mountainous.* For steamers, the navigation of the inner waters between cape Mudge and the I'acific is very simple, the only caution recjuired being to steer mid-channel; if the weather l)e fine, except in the vicinity of the Ninijikish river, Holmeken island, and Seymour narrows, these waters nuiy be navigated as well by night as during the day, the shores being so high on either side as to be easily defined. If in a ssii ling-vessel, unless tlu* wind Ih^ fair and likely to remain so, it would be preferable to anchor for the night, as the wind usually falls after sunset, especially during summer months. Water in generally so plentiful that at every valley or beach a stream will be found. Supplies. — Whenever a vessel stops, the luitives will generally bring alongside deer, grouse, salmon, rock cod, and other fish in moderate (|uantities, selling them at reasonable prices. Blankets, shirts of the most common description, knives, l)«ads, powder, shot, tobacco, ami rod paint are very useful to barter with. To men-of-war they are usually very civil, but crews of coasters and merchant • See Admiralty chart :— Strait of Georgia, sheet 2, No. 5«0 ; -^cale, w = oft of aii inch. i '3 \l »r 21fi CKOlUitA STIIAIT TO CAPK SCOTT. [Cliap. VII. ) * I) vcshpIh HhonM wiitch thctn vi;,'ilantly, as tlicy an- cuimiii!^' ami trcachcrouH (('H|ifcially lU'ar the iiortlicrn parts dl' VamouviT iHlund), having cai)lurt'(l several small i-uaslfis ami iminlcrtMl their crewH. Tides and tidal streams.— S(»ulli wan l nl' ScynK.iir narrows tlic strcaiiiH run i'roni 1 to (i Uiiols at spring's, ami turn at lilLrli and low wat»>r liy tim slntrc. At tlu^ s(»iitlu)rri I'ntranc*-, m-ar cape MmlKf iind between it ami Willow point, heavy rae«'s or tide rijis raije diirinj.,' the Ihtoil, which would he dan;,'eroiis to small vessels in l>lowin;,' weather. It is hif,'h water, lull and change, at r»h. ;»(>m„ and tlie rise aDd fall is al>out IL feel. Northward of Httymour uarniws tim tidal streams are comparatively slack ; they run from 1.^ to 2}, hours after higli ami low water. For tidoH in Seymour narrows, str pape 2i)0. Quathiaski cove.— ('Sipc Mudi^e, with the hank oil' it to the 8outh-(>ast, have been already described (aw page l^d'.l). From it Ihe west side of Valdes island takes a north-westerly direction, and at till) distance of li miles is a small indentation named Quathiaciki cove, bordered by a sandy beach. The cove, which is about li cables lon^r in ii N.W. and S.K. direction, and nowhere half a mile wide, is only Ht for steamt-rs or small craft, and only affords room for one vessel to moor ir» its south-east, and another in its northern part ; tim formtT is recommended, about one or 2 cables S.K. from (Jroiise island, in 10 fathon»s, well sheltereil from all winds. Tho tidal streams sot slightly thntugh the cove, but sweep strongly past tlie entrance.* Tho land betwe<'n cape Miidgo and (Quathiaski cove is about I(K) feet high, flat, and fertile; an Indian village (d" consi<lerable extent stands midway between the two places. Grouse island, in the centre of the cove, Ib small and moderately high ; a shoal extends for two-thirds of a cable oil' its south-east point, which ought to be gnarded against when I'utering. If intending to anchor in t^tiathlaski cove, enter south of (ir«)USe island (paying careful attention to the tides), and keep well over towards the st)Uth shore until inside. In the middle of ih(( ch,inn(d north of Uruuse island is a shoal with only a depth of 3 futhums un it. S,r chart, No. ".80. * S/'f plan of Quathiaski cove on Achui: \lty ulwirt, No, '.J.Offr ; 80»lo, m =:i inches. Chap. VII.] DIHCOVEUY PASHA(;K. 247 Moor midway lujtwcen tho Hoiith-caHt point fif Oronso iflland and i\w oppoHitc Hhoro, in from 7 to 10 fatlioniH. If nect'HHJiry a vchwI may proc»'*Ml to tlu' n(»rtli part of tiin cove iiiHiiU* firoiisu iHland, and atu-lior in Jrom 7 to 1) CathoniH. Careful attention to tho ludni IB important. GowUand harbour, about .'» miloH N.W. from capo Mntl>?f, Ih upwanlH of L'.\ milcH lonj,' in a N.W. and S.K. direction, and from a (piartrr to two-thir(l(< of a miK' broad. Tlu' HhorcH an* rnf.'R<>d, and there are Hevend rocks and ialandH within it. St«'ep iHland, otV the entnmce, iH about KM) feet hif,'h, 4 caMeH l<m>,' N.W. and S.E., and one cable wide ; the weHtern Hi(h* Ih clilly. (lowlland island in about ono milo lon^,' and a ipjarter of a mile wide, hif,'h and rutfj,'ed, with a hill at both endH, the Honthern one being nearly KH) feet high.* Entrance bank lies nearly aenmn th»* entrance to the harbour, and partly drieH at low water ; it ih <!ompoH«>d of siinil, beinj? t caltlen in lenjith N.W. ami S.K., and one cabh- broad ; there Ih a clear pasHii^e on l)<)th HideH of it, with not Ichh than 4 fathomu ; itn Houth end, in ;i falh<)mH, is (mo cable North from Vif,Mlant point, the north-wont extreme of flowUand inland. If entering; Oowlland harbour from tho southward rouml Hteep inland at about (me cable, and h* .i* E.N.E. for Vijfilaiit point, which is Hteep-to, and ouf,'ht to be rounded at less than half ;i cable t(» avoid Kntrance bank. Ilaviiifj passcil the point, anchor in .') to 7 fathoms, muddy bottom, at about 2 caltlcH Kant iVom it, or proceed further Houth-east, where more extended anchor.ipe will be fouiul. Tho passage south of Ciowlland island is choked with rocks. If coming from the north-west, when Vigilant point bears East, stoer for it, jiassing it as before directed. Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in Oowlland harbour at .'i.DO p.m. ; springs rise II [(Hit. Tho tidal streams rnn s^viftly between Steejiand Oowlland inlands, and cauticm is necessary when entering the harbour. Maud island. — From (lowlland harbour to Seymour narrows tho coast takes a W.N.W. direction, being steep-to, high, and rugged. Maud island, tho south-east point of tho narrows, is small, about ;W) feet high, and there is a boat i)a8sage betwe»!n it and V^ildes island ; Yellow islet lies 4 cables E.N.E. from it. I ' 'i i > 'Set Plan of Oowlland harbour, on AdmiraUy chart, No. 2,067 ; Moalo, m = W inches. 24R (JKolClilA STKAIT TO CAPK StioTT. [Chap. VII. "Willow point ( VaiK-ouvj-r irtlaiitl), I In- K<»ntli-WfHt |M)iiit nl DiHfovi'ry paHHa^'e, lirs nearly '2 inih'H S. liy \V. from <ap«' Miit|>,M'. It in low, cnv»T«Ml with wilhtw hiiHhcH, and oil' it a saiitlHtoiu' l«'(lp«' HXti'inIs N.K. lor nearly ){ caliU'H. WIhmi passing tlio jMynf <ln not ap|iroa<'h it within halt a mile. From \Vill(»w point a low coast treiidH north-wcHt for 7 miles to Orange point, and is bordered the whole dlHtance by a Handy i)eaeh. Oranfire point is bare ami round, of a redilish ('(dour, not iiidike tlie top of an oran^'e. A boulder spit extends li cables N.W. I»y N. from Oran^je point, its outer limit bein^,' marked by kelp in I falhonis. About I.', miles S.E. from ()ranj,'e point is the entrance of the (*ampbell river, a iar/jfe stream of fresh water, navlf,'al»le for some distance by boats or cano(*s. Dunoan bay, of which ()ran>,'e point is the east extreme, is about half a mile deep, and aH'ords ^'ood ant lionise in 14 to 7 fathoms, sand, well out of the tidt*, anil sheltered from all except N.W. winds. There is a broad sandy beach at the head of the bay, through which a stream of water flows. ThiB bay is easy of acc»'BS.* .V j,'oo(| position to anchor is at fr(»ni ',\ to ■'» cables \V. .^ S. from Oranj,'e point, in from 7 to I J fathoms. Warspite rock is a danKenms pinnacle nearly midway between ()ranj,'c and K.ice jKiints on the west shoro of Discovery passa;^'e. The rock, witli I feet on it at low water sprinj; tides, ris«'S above a pati'h about S(l yards in extent within the '(-fathoms lim'. The dan>,'er i;t sicep-io on its north and east sides, and iietween it and the shore are li to <S t'alhoms. The position is at times marked by kelp, but with the tidal stream stronj,', the kelp is run under ai\d camiot l»e seen. It lies with Middle point bearing' S.W. distant 1.^ caldes, and llace point N.W. ■; W. Race point, rocky and ban- of trees, lyin;,' about il miles N.W. from Duncan l>a\, is bold and steep-to. The tidal streams run jnist it witli j.!reat ve|(»city, and, during' the flo(»d stream, the ovt-rfalls off it are very (hmgerous for boats. MENZIES BAY has hilhert(» i)een little imjuented, chiefly from the presumed dillicully of entering or leaving the bay whilst the stream is ruiniing strongly in SeymoiM' narrows.! .Srv olinrt, \o. ."iSO. • .Sir jiliui itC Dmioiih Imi.v oh Adiiiirully (;liurt. No. iVts : hchIo, /« =20 iuoiieh. t \r |iiuii of MiMizifs liiiy, Xo. filtS ; sculc, m = 8 luchuH. < ' Chap, VII.] DISCOVKUV l"\SSA(iK. '249 l)»'tVii(l<'r sh(»iil, ill till' cent n- of ilir Itay, Iiuh of lat»' yearn t'Xt«'ntl«'i| (-niiHiilfi'iil)ly, closing ihf siiiitliiTiM-liiitiii*! (i> ships ul' liciivy ilniii^lit. 'riic iiortlicni cliaiiiH-l has a dfpth <>t li, t'athoiiis at low watt-r, aiitl iH thrt'«>-tpiartoi'H of a nihlc widn hrtwt'fu tlu- '.\ fathoms lines, aii<l si'Venil rocky patt-hns fxist oil' varioim points, 'rhcre is fxct'lleiit aiich()ra^'<j iiiHide of l)«*feiitlci- siioal in from .'i to 7 fathoms, >;oo<l liotitiii^ Kfoiiixlf iiixl >><' fiirrciit. A nutrc eoiivi'iiiciil aiichoraf^'f whcti only wiiitinj; for tide is oil' Trout river in .'> to ('» fathoms, wliere there is n<» iiUMnivenieme from the tiilc or swirls, an<l is to he pref»*rretl to Duiiean l»ay. Whon entering, and t lie Ht ream is running' strongly, ^et into the slack water al>oiit the middle of the hay, and xivin^ Htephenson point ii >(()od l)erth, keep close alon^ the hi;,'h land, on the north-eust side of the hay, and when ahreast a cimspicuoiis ^iU'vn ravine with u larye t,'ray honldiM*, yoti are in the narrowest part, and should not he more than half a cahle from the shore, whii-li is steep-to ; as soon as this hi^dil is pause<l, haul out and anchor as convenient. lU'Hides the two rivers, there is t^ood fresh waH'r in Nymph cove. Tidal streams.— When a stntn;,' Hood is running' in the narrows, thy voliiino of water rushes past Wilfred point, and striking' on u jioint midway hetween Hace and lluntin^ford points, the stronger stream k^^'H towards the race, the other follows the coast tolluntin^'ford point, where it is dellectud and lost in the iniddh* of the bay. With a stroll^' ebb the ed>,'e of ^the stream from Kace jMiiiit strikeH ii|)on Stephenson point, but without much force, that running' west- wanl Iteing lost almost immediali'ly. There is no swirl to speak of inHide a concave line drawn betwtfcn Kace and Stephenson points. SEYMOUR NARROWS, at lo.", mil.'s N.W. by W. from cape Mu<1kh, is a narrow strait altoiit 1.^, miles lon^, and only from '.\ to ') cables wide, the shores »»n both sitles beinj,' hi^'li, rugf,'ed, ami Hteep-to.* The narrows are danj^erous fo.- lar^e vessels diiriny the stren>,'th of either stream, and it is recomim'iided to only enter at or near slack water, and to keep the eastern shore aboard in order to avoid Hippie rock. The strictest attention to the steerage is essential. It is stated on g<»od authority that ii vessel steaming at the rate of 13 knots has been unable to make headway, and even to l)e set ba<'k, while attem))ting the narrows during spring tides ; also, that during the south-going stream an eddy sets N.W., close to the cliflH on the western shore, which those having good local knowledge have taken advantage of. i 9« ; f • He« Admiralty plan of Seymour narrown, No. 638 ; scale, m = 20 inohes. ^ i IMAGE EVALUATSON TEST TARGET (MT-3) is. £?, 1.0 I.I 1^ 1.8 1.25 |||U |,,6 •4 6" ' ► Photographic Sciences Corporation ^. €^ c\ \ ^ O^ e3 WEST MAIN STREET WESSSR.N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 ''^'f *" ^ w ■ i ".: 250 GEORGIA STRAIT TO CAPE SCOTT. [Chap. VII. Coming from the southward, Duncan bay and Menzies bay are convenient anchorages for awaiting slack water at Seymour narrows. Northward of the narrows, Discovery passage takes a north- westerly direction for 12 miles to Chatham point, the shores becoming more high and rugged than before. On the eastern shore are several bays or openings, but, with the exception of Plumper bay, are too deep to afford anchorage : the western shore is nearly straight, and near Chatham point are Otter cove and Elk bay, both affording anchorage. Ripple rock. — A c^^i gerous rock, about 1^ cables in extent, in a N.N.W. and S.S E. direction, with a depth of 2J fathoms on it, lies nearly in the centre of Seymour narrows, but rather on the western side. Its shoalest part lies .3 cables S.S.W. h W. from the north-west point of Maud island, and nearly 2 cables from the nearest land of Wilfred point ; it is near the position of the heaviest tide race. Tides and tidal streams. — It is high water, full and change, in Seymour narrows, about 4h. Om., springs rise about 12 feet. In April a small diurnal inequality of height was observed at high water, but at low water there was usually an inequality of 6 to 8 feet. The south-going stream begins from 15 to liO minutes after low water, and runs until high water, or about 10 minutes after it. The duration of slack water after both streams is generally 10 to 20 minutes, but sometimes there is no slack. The north-going stream begins from 15 to 80 minutes after high water, and runs until low water, or about 10 minutes after it. In the narrows, both streams attain a rate of 10 knots at springs ; south-eastward of Maud island the rate is 5 knots. It must be noted that although in the summer the times of high and low water, and the turns of the streams are tolerably regular, in the winter or during bad weather they cannot be predicted with any certainty. Plumper bay, on the Valdes island shore half a mile north from Seymour narrows, is about two-thirds of a mile deep, and the same in width, affording anchorage in from 14 to 9 fathoms, near its south- east part, easy of access, well sheltered, and out of the tide. If unable to proceed through the narrows in consequence of the tide, Plumper bay becomes a very convenient stopping place, and no directions are necessary for entering it.* * See plan of Plumper bay on Admiralty ohart, No. 338 ; scale, m =3 2*0 inches. Chap. VII.] DISCOVERY PASSAGE,— HEYMOU 11 NARROWS. 251 The titliil streams and eddies in Plumper bay ; if anchored far ont are sometimes strong, causing a vi'ssel to surge heavily on her cables. Caution must be used when anchoring, for a rock lies one cable ofl; shore in the south-east part of the bay. Deep Water bay, separatetl from Plumper bay l)y the peninsula of Separation head, is about one mile ileep, and half a mile broad, but too deep for anchorage. Granite point is a high white granite bluff on the eastern shore of Discovery passage, at 1) miles N.W. by N. from Seymour narrows. On both sides of the point is an opening, the southern one extending eastward for nearly '^ miles, and containing several islands. At 2 cables N.W. from Granite point is a rock with only 9 feet water on it. III OkishollOW channel, immediately northward of Granite point, divides Valdes island and joins Hoskyn inlet at Surge narrows. Seven miles from Granite point, an arm, locally ktiown as Hole in the Wall, branches off to the north-east into Bute inlet, 2 miles below Stuart island ; in this arm the tidal streams are rapid, 7 to [) knots. These passages are unsurveyed and should not be attempted. They are used by small local steam vessels calling at the logging camp in Wyatt bay. It is high water, full and change, at Surge narrows, at G hours ; springs rise 12 feet. Elk bay, on the west side of Discovery passage, at 9 miles N.W. from Seymour narrows, is about Ih miles broad and three-quarters of a mile deep. It affords indifferent anchorage, in 14 to 15 fathoms, about one-third of a mile from the head, and exposed to northerly winds ; Otter point, its so\ithern extreme, slopes gradually to the sea, with a small shingle beach running oft". A rock which covers at half flood lies 1^ cables off" shore, three- (^uarters of a mile N.W. from Elk bay. Otter cove, on the west side of Discovery passage, 15^ miles from Otter point and just south of Chatham point, is a small but snug anchorage, sheltered from all winds by Limestone island (about 100 feet high), in the centre of the entrance. Snag rock v/ith only 2 feet water on it lies one cable E.N.E. from Limestone island.* * iSiY' plan of Otter cove ou Admiralty chart, 2s'u. Mi) ; ucale, m( = 3 incheit. i 2:)2 GKOUGIA STRAIT TO CAPE SCOTT. [Chap. vn. If iiitentling to anchor in Otter cove, pass north of Limestone (Ijewis) island, ai)d anchor midway between it and the head of the cove,, in from 10 to 6 fathoms ; a large vessel should moor. The passagi' south of Limestone island is choked with kelp, the least water obtained was 4 fathoms, but there is probably less. The time of high ' /ater, full and change, in Otter cove is uncertain. Ohatliam point, a low rocky point, nearly 24 miles from cape Mudge, is the north-west extreme of Discovery passage, and also separates it from Johnston strait. Discovery passage is here 1^ miles wiile. Chatham point is situated in latitude .')0°20' 30" N., longitude 12.')° 28' 40" W. Beaver rock, awash at low water, lies 2 cables N.E. from the north extreme of Chatham point ; in rounding the point, the shore should not be approi»ched nearer than half a mile. A rock, some- times marked by kelp, with a depth of about 1.5 feet on it at low water, lies 4 cables off Chatham point, with Beaver rock S.W. | S. about 2 cables ; and eastern extreme of Chatham point S. if E. Between the point and Nodales channel are several strong eddies or tide rips. The point on Valdes island, opposite Chatham point, has a nearly bare steep rocky face, not much higher than Chatham point. Directions. — Northward of Seymour narrows, the tidal streams being weaker (i5 to ') knots), proceed in mid-channel. Chatha.n point should not be approached nearer than half a mile. Plumper bay, as before mentioned, affords good anchorage if waiting for the tide to proceed through Seymour narrows from the northward. NODALES CHANNEL is 8 miles long in a N. by E. direction between Thurlow and Valdes islands, and leading into Cardero channel ; its western entrance, which is upwards of one mile wide, with deep water, is 1^ miles N.E. by N. from Chatham point ; there are some tide rips off it. Hemming' bay. — In Hemming bay, on the west side of Nodales channel, a rock of small extent with a depth of 6 feet, and not marked by kelp, lies nearly in the middle of the bay, about W.S.W. 4 cables from the northern Lee islet. The water in the bay outside the rock is deep ; between the rock and the head are 17 fathoms. Sit cJiart, No. .'iHU. Chap, VII.] DISCOVERY PASSAOE.— .lOirNSTONR STRAIT. 253 Hardingre island, :<00 feet high, about thi-ee-quarters of a niHe long and a (quarter of a mile wide, is about one uiile W. by N. from the entrance to Cameleon harbour, with a passage on botii sides. Young passage, to the southward, is a quarter of a mile wide, and Burgess passage, to the northward, half a mile ; there is detq) water in both. MaycOCk rock. — Three-quarters <tf a mile W. ^ S. from the Bouth entrance point of Cameleon harbour, and (5 cables W. by S. from Bruce point, is Maycock rock, with one fathom on it. The shore to the eastward ol" this rock for half a mile has foul ground marked with kelp extending from it one cable. Cameleon harbour on the south-east shore of Nodales channel (Valdes island) is about oie mile deei) in an K.S.K. direction, and has an average widtii of I? cables. Theenti-ance, between Bruce point on the north shore and a small islet oft" the south shore, is less than 2 cables wide, and caution must be observed in rounding Bruce point in order to avoid Douglas rock lying half a cable ofl' it. It is advisable to keep well outside the kelp when entering.* Anchorage, sheltered from all winds, in from 8 to 10 fathoms, may be obtained at 2 cables from the head. The lead should l)e ke])t going quickly in approaching the head as the flat which extends nearly 200 yards from it is steep-to. It is high water, full and change, in Cameleon harbour at ."ih. Om. ; springs rise 16 feet, neaps IH feet. JOHNSTONE STRAIT, whicli separates the north-east side of Vancouver island from the mainland, is comprised between Chatham point and Beaver cove, being about 55 miles in length W. by N. and E. by S., with a varying breadth of one to 2 miles. The shore on both sides is high and rugged, more especially the southern, which may be said to be a continuous mountain range, rising, almost abruptly from the sea, the summits of which vary from 2,000 to 5,000 feet in height, some of the higher ones being snow- clad all the year round. f There are no anchorages whatever along the south shr re, but there are several on the northern, viz., Vere cove, Knox, Blinkinsop, and * Sfo plan of Cameleon harbour on Admiralty chart, No. 580 ; scale, m =-^ B inched, t .*•'■'' Admiralty chart of •Tohti'itone and Rronsrhton straits and Queen Charlotte •ound, No. 581 ; scale, m = 0"i of un inch. I I- :■ I 254 (iEORGIA STRAIT TO CAPE SCOTT. [Chap. VII. Forward bays, as well as ports Harvey antl Neville, all of which, except the latter, b'^ing easily accessible to sailing-vessels. Bauza cove, one mile east of Beaver cove, is a small deep bight, and affords no anchorage ; some small islets lie in its entrance. Ripple shoal consists of three pinnacle rocks on a shoal about one mile long E. h N. and W. ^ S., on which the least depth is 10 feet, from which Eden point bears N. 42° E. distant Ifg miles. A can buoy with red and black horizontal stripes marks the eastern side in G fathoms. Si'e page 202. Tides and tidal streams. — Every wliere in Johnstone strait it is high water, full and change, at Oh. 30m., and the rise and fall of tide is from 15 to 17 feet. The streams run from 2 to 2h hours after high and low water by the shore, and except in the vicinity of Helmcken island and eastward of Knox bay, they are not strong. In the former place they run from 3 to G knots, and in the latter 2 to 4 knots ; but in other parts of ihe strait they seldom exceed one to 3 knots per hour. Near Helmcken island are several heavy tide rips, which in blowing weather would be dangerous to boats or small craft ; and just west of Chatham point is an overfall producing a considerable swell at times. ThurlOW islands are on the north side of Johnstone strait, westward of Nodales channel ; their south side, which borders the strait, is rocky and about l'^ miles long in a westerly direction ; the eastern half is indented by several bays, off which lie some small islands. These islands are mountainous, rising to elevations of from 1,400 to more than 2,000 feet ; mount Eldon, near the centre of the islands northward of Pender islands, wooded and squai-e-topped, and quite isolated, is remarkable, and 2,011 feet high. Knox bay, on the south side of Thurlow island, and 7 miles westward of Chatham point, is two-thirds of a mile deep and about the same in width, affording anchorage in from 15 to 17 fathoms at 2 cables from the head, off the edge of the bank, which is steep-to. The anchorage is well protected from east or westerly winds, but it ought only to be used as a stepping place for the night or tide, as See chart, No. 581. ~~~ Chap. VII.] JOHXSTONE STRAIT. — TIDES. 255 from the stoepness of the liank a vessel would touch if a southerly wind sprang up. Off it^ south-west point foul ground extends for nearly one cable. If intending to anchor, steer for the head of the bay, and anchor immediately IG fathoms are obtained. It is high water, full and change, in Knox bay at Uh. ; springs rise 16 feet, reaps 12 feet. Pender islailds, between Knox bay and Nodales channel, are very rugged and barren, the lai-gest being 150 feet high ; foul ground exists to the east and west of them for nearly half a mile, and their south side should not be approached nearer than 2 cables. The tidal streams set strongly between them. Eden point, the southern entrance point of Chancellor channel and the north-west extreme of Thurlow, is bold and cliffy ; half a mile south-east of it is a small bay, too deep to afford anchorage, except for small craft. Ripple point, on the south or Vancouver shore of the strait, tl miles West from Chatham point, it; steep-to, and between it and Knox bay are some heavy tide rips in blowing weather. Gamp point, 9^ miles W. by S. h S. from Ripple point, slopes gradually to the sea ; a rockj- beach extends a short distance off it ; and half a mile N.E. of it is Rijjple shoal, with from 7 to 9 fathoms, marked by keip, about 3 cables in extent, with deep water around it. (See page 254.) On the line from Eden point to Camp point peak, and close to the Vancouver shore, lies a rock covered at high water. Salmon bay, 4^ miles westward from Camp point, at high water appears of considerable extent, but affords no anchorage, the bank, which runs oft" half a mile from its head, being too steep. A river of considerable extent flows into this bay, and is said to be navigable for canoes several miles inland. At this place is the only break in the mountain range on the south shore, and a valley of considerable extent stretcher away to the south-east, in the centre of which appears a remarkable bare summit. Helmoken island, lying 3 miles westward of Thurlow island, in the centre of the strait, is 1^ miles long east and west, and about half a mile wide, with a clear channel of the same width on both hi IE See chart, No. 581. 2n{] CKOT^OTA STRAIT TO C.VPR SCOTT. [Olmj). VIT. sides of it. Tlie island is alinnt 150 to 200 feet hi^h, with a rnf?^ed coast line, and several small islets lie close off its north-east shore. Speaker rock, which covers at a quarter flood, lies 2| cables N.E. from its eastern point, and is in the way of vessels using Current passapre. Race prssp je, southward ol Helmcken island, is half a mile wide, but deep ; the tidal streams set strongly through it (as much as 6 knots at si)rings), and there are some heavy tide rips in its eastern })art. This is the passage generally used. Current passage, to the northward of Helmcken, is about half a mile wide, and deej), the tide l)eing as strong as in Race passage. CHANCELLOR CHANNEL, which is H miles long and connects with f'ardero channel, lies along the north shore of Thurlow island, and has its entrance between Kden point (the west extreme of Thurlow island) and the south shore of Hardwick(* island ; it is half a mile wide A kelp i)atch is shown on the chart nearly in mid-channel, or three-(iuarters of a mile East of Darcy point. The depth of water over the patch is not known, and it should be avoided. WELLBORE CHANNEL, separating the north-east side of Hardwicke island from the mainland, the entrance to which from Chancellor channel is nearly Ji miles north-east of Eden point, takes a W.N.W. direction for 4 miles, communicating with Forward harbour, Topaze harbour, and Sunderland channel. At its entrance is Bulkeley island ; pass eastward of it, and keep the eastern shore aboard to avoid some rocks which lie off the shore of Hardwicke island. Tidal streams. — The tidal streams in Wellbore channel run with great velocity, often attaining at springs a rate of over 7 knots an hour. Forward harbour, on the eastern side of "Wellbore channel, the entrance to which between Louisa and Horace points is only a little over one cable wide, extends nearly 15 miles in a north-east direction, and though the entrance is narrow, its freedom from obstruction renders it easily accessible to vessels of moderate size. Its shores are steep-to, but the water being of moderate depth over its whole extent (12 to 15 fathoms), anchorage may be taken up in any part of it, if requisite. At its head a flat dries out 2^ cables at low water, and two small streams flow into it.* * act- Admiralty plan of Forward harbour, No. 630 ; pcale, «/ =:4'0 inches. Chap. VII.] CHANCELLOR t'HANNKL.— TOPAZE HARBOUR. 257 For half a iniJe within the entrance the iwissage is from one to 2 cables wide, with depths of 8 to 12 fathoms, but at that distance, the harbour opens and varies from ;5| to f) cables in width. Anchorage may, as already mentioned, be taken up anywhere, but the best position is in Douglas bay, on the north shore, just round Mills point, in from 6 to 10 fathoms. It is high water, full and change, in Forward harbour at 3h. Om. ; springs rise IC feet, neaps 11^ feet. Bessborougrll bay, an open indentation on the north shore of Wellbore channel half a mile north-west of the entrance to Forward harbour, affords no anchorage, owing to the great depth of water in it. SUNDERLAND CHANNEL.— The entrance, which is subject to he;, -y tide rips, lies between Fanny reef and the shore near Blinklnsop bay ; Sunderland channel is a clear navigable channel extruding over (I miles in a north-east direction to the entrance to Topaze harbour. Except at its entrance, where it is less than one mile wif'e, it is over a mile in width. Seymour and Poyntz islands lie in mid-channel, the latter near the junction of Sunderland channel with Wellbore channel {see page 250), The depths shoal gradually from 50 fathoms at tht entrance, to 22 fathoms north of Poyntz island ; but there is a deep run of water in that locality and along the shore south of the two islands above mentioned. Tidal streams. — The tidal streams in Sunderland channel are not strong, attaining a velocity of only from a half to 1^ knots an hour. TOPAZE HARBOUR, the continuation of Sunderland channel, is, from its entrance (7 cables wide) between Murray island on the east, and the shore under Geneste Cone (1,400 feet high), on the west, nearly 5 miles long in a north-east direction, and nearly one mile wide, gradually narrowing, however, at its head to half a mile in width. Over the whole of this harbour there is an uniform depth of 13 fathoms until within half a mile of its head. On the north side, 1^ miles within the entrance, is Jackson bay, a narrow bight extending 1| miles in a north-west direction but shoal at nearly a mile from its head. At the head of Topaze harbour are mounts Drummond and Berkeley, 3,273 and 3,987 feet high respectively. Anchorage may be obtained, well sheltered, in either Jackson bay or at the head of the harbour, in 10 fathoms. n SO 11948 See chart, No. 58L B 258 GEORGIA STRAIT TO CAPE SCOTT. [Chap. Vll. Tides.— It 18 hifjfh water, full and change, in Topa/e harbour at 'Ml. dm. ; springs rise 1(1 feet, neaps 11^ feet. Hardwicke island is high and rugged, and the south shore Rteep-to, except near its south-west extremity, where Karl ledge runs oir for 3 cables, only uncovering at low water. York island, high round and about half a mile in diameter, and anoHier small low islet half a mile westward of it lie off the west jioint of Hardwicke, and outside them, at the distance of one-third of a mile, is Fanny reef, which covers or is awash at high water ; between the reef and north shore there are some heavy tide rips. Blinkinsop bay, ~.V miles N.W. of Hardwicke island, and 2:) miles from Chatham point, is about 1^ miles deep, and half a mile wide ; its shores are high, and from the head a bank dries out at low water for nearly one mile. Outer rock, which has a depth of 7 feet on it at low water, lies with the summit of Jesse island bearing S.W. by W. ^ W., distant 9 cables ; and mount Hardy (2G12) N.W. | W. A rock awash lies E. ^ S., distant four-tenths of a cable, from Outer rock, and there is a depth of 1^ fathoms between the rock awash and the shore to the north-eastward. A rock marked by kelp, on which there is a depth of 4 fathoms, lies one cable N.W. by W. from Tuna point, the east entrance point. This bay affords good anchorage, in 10 to 12 fathoms, about one- third of a mile N.E. from its south-west point, well sheltered and easy of access. The only direction required is to keep in mid- channel, avoiding the above-mentioned rock, and anchor on obtaining 12 fathoms, as the bank is rather steep. Jesse island, lying about 2 cables off the shore, nearly half a mile S.W. of Blinkinsop bay, is small and steep-to. PORT NEVILLE trends north-easterly for 7 miles, varying from a quarter to one mile in breadth. It affords a spacious and secure anchorage, but in consequence of Channel rock, lying near the middle of its entrance, great caution is required. Its shores, except near the eastern side of entrance and head, are high, sloping gradually to the shore.* The entrance is between Milly island and Ransom point (off which is a small rock), thence the channel into port Neville is IJ miles long, and about 3 cables wide, running in a northerly direction ; the Sre chart, No. 681. ♦ See Admiralty plan of port Neville, No, fi30 ; tcalo, j» s= 4"0 inehee. Chap. VII.] JOHVSTOXR strait.— port NEVILLE. •?,'»•) depths In it vary from ;') lathnms, shoaling' to 2^ fathoms in the nortli l>art. Th« best paHHUge is on the wt^stern side of Channel rock, there ■ being about l5 feet at h)w water ; the passage eastward of it has \, only 12 feet. The depth of water in the port varies from ('» to |i 9 fathoms, with a muddy bottom. | Channel rock, of small extent and very dangerous, having only jj 4 feet over it, lies in mid-channel 3^ cables S.W. .V S. from Houlder ■I point, so that unless specially require to enter this port, tlie anchorage 'i of port Harvey, and Blenkinsop bays, which are at no great distance *[ from its vicinity, ought to bo preferred, being both secure and easy ij of access. Boulder point, the north-east point of the channel, is low, with a stony beach round it ; a shoal extends off it northward and eastward for .') cables, with 1^ fathoms in some parts. Robbers Nob is a remarkable low grassy point on the north side of | the i)ort, about one mile from Boulder point. ||j Shoal creek, at the head of port Neville, is ahout 2 miles long, '; narrow, and not recommended, as its entrance is only one cable •: wide, with a rock in the middle ; from its head a mud flat extends j off nearly one mile. I k Anohoragre. — The best anchorage is about half a mile south-west I of the Nob in G or 7 fathoms. Temporary anchorage for a night I may also be had at the outer part of the entrance, but the soundings |, decrease very suddenly when abreast Milly island. 'j >> Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in port Neville at Oh. 30m.; springs rise 17 feet, neaps 12 feet ; the stream runs from one to 2 knots at the entrance. j Stimpson reef. — At 4 miles W. by S. ^ S. from the entrance of ^ port Neville, and a quarter of a mile off shore, lies Stimpson reef, ; which covers at half flood. !f PORT HARVEY indents the coast in a northerly direction for 4 miles, with a breadth varying from a quarter to three-quarters of a mile, and affords good and well-sheltered anchorage in 7 to 9 fathoms, J muddy bottom, at half a mile from its head. There are several j small islets (Mist) within it, and the shores are rugged ; from its i head swampy ground extends north-east, and to the north-west is a narrow gorge which partly fills at high water and joins Knight inlet.* Set; chart, No. 581. ♦ *«• Admiralty plan of Port Harvey, No. tl34 ; scale, m = 4-0 inches. a0 11tf48 R2 I ^' 2»50 aUOROIA HTRAIT TO CAPK SCOTT. [rhan. vri. Broken islands, ofT the oast Hide of tlu> entrance, are low rngged, and of Hinall extent ; foul ground extends from them in a northerly direction for three-ijuarters of a mile ; a boat paatMige exists eastward of them. Havannah channel, the entrance of which is 1^ miles north of Broken islands, runs in a north-easterly direction from the east Bide of port Harvey, connecting it with Call creek. Its length is about 4 miles, and its breadth varies from one-liidf to one mile ; the shores are high and much broken, and the depths in mid-channel vary from 9 to ')() fathoms. There are several islands within it, which lie mostly in mid-chaniu'l. PIull island, the largest, is three- quarters of a mile long, and half a mile broad. Boughey bay, in the south-east part of Havannah channel, is about one mile deep in a southerly direction, and half a mile broad ; a vessel may anchor in this bay at half a mile from the head, in from 10 to 14 fathoms, but the passage to it has not been sufficiently examined to recommend its being used as an anchorage. Browning rock, in the north part of Havannah channel, about one- third of a mile north of Hull island, has only 12 i^et over it, ajul lies nearly in the fairway of the channel to Call creek ; there is an apparently clear passage westward of it. Caution. — As the soundings are uneven and the bottom rocky west and north-west of Hull island, great care should be used in navigating this channel near that neighbourhood. Call creek, the eastern termination of the inlet leading from Havannah channel, is of considerable extent, its length in a north- easterly direction being 12 miles, and its breadth varying from a half to 1^ miles ; the shores on either side are high and precipitous, rising abruptly to mountains from 1,(X)0 to 4,70() feet in height. The head terminates in a low swamp, and a valley extends north-east from it. There is no anchorage whatever except near its entrance, on the north side amongst the Warren islands, where from 6 to 14 fathoms will be found. These islands, four in number, and small, are half a mile from the entrance ; they are parallel to the shore from one to 2 cables off it. A vessel may anchor between the two southern islands in from 6 to 10 fathoms. See chart, No. 581. Chap. VII.] JOHNMTONK STRAIT.— FORWOOD BAY. 261 Chatham channel, the east part of which coinniencos at Root point, the north-went extreme of Havannah channel, trends west- wards, connecting these waters with Knight inlet ; itrt breadth as far as surveyed varies from 2 to 3 cables, the depth in mid-channel is 4 fathoms. It is not recommended to use this channel nntil further explored, as only 4 miles of it have at present been examined. Directions. — If intending to anchor in port Harvey, keep in mid-channel till within the Mist islands, when the anchonige opens out ; anchor in 7 fathoms in the middle of the harbour, at about half a mile from the head. The anchorages in Boughey bay, Havannah channel, and among the Warren islands on the shore of Call creek, are secure ; but the passages to them, though probably deep, have not been sulficiently examined to give directions for entering them. Tides. — It is high water, full and - ii nge, in port Harvey at Oh. 30m. ; springs rise 10 feet. Escape reef, lying 2 miles W ' y S. ^ 8. from Broken islands, md half a mile off the north shore of Joh/istone strait, is about one cable in extent, has 4 ftet least water on It, and is marked by kelp in the summer. This reef, which has deep water around it> is in the track of vessels entering port Harvey from the westward ; to avoid it, keep in the middle of the strait till the entrance of the port comes well open, bearing N.N.E. or N. by E., when steer in for it. Forward hay, 3 miles W.S.W. from port Harvey, is about IJ miles broad, and three-quarters of a mile deep, with a small islet 30 feet high off its south-west point ; its shores are moderately high, and a bank extends nearly 3 cables from its head. This bay affords good anchorage, in 14 to 10 fathoms, off the edge of the bank, at about two-thirds of a mile N.E. of its south-west point, well sheltered from all except south-easterly winds, and even these send in no sea ; it is easy of access for any class of vessel, and a very good stopping place. Caution. — Entering it from the eastward guard against the Escape reef. Boat harbour. — From Forward bay, the northern shore of Johnstone strait becomes cotP.paratively low, and trends W. by S. for ^1 r 1 St-e cbiurt, Nu. bUl. 262 (lEOROlA STRAIT TO CAl'B SCOTT. [Chap. Vll. 15 miles to Weynton i)aHi:«ifj:e, at the termination of the Htrait. Hoat harbour, a small cove affording shelter to boats, is 6 miles westward of Forward bay. HANSON rnd CRAOROFT ISLANDS. —Between Boat harlK)ur and Weynton passiige the shores of Cracroft island are low and rocky. The island is about 15 miles long ; and off its south west part, at the distance of half a mile from the shore, and 2^ miles east from Blakeney passage, are the Sophia ialcts, of small extent. Hanson island is separated from Cracroft by a passage one mile wide ; its south side is 3 miles long, and off its south-west point are some rocks extending 2 or 3 cables westward. Growler cove indents the west end of Cracroft island in an K.N.K. direction for three-quarters of a mile, with a width of about 1^ cables, and from 20 to 5 fathoms water. At the head a Hat runs out for a short distance. Directions. — For a steamer, or sailing-vessel with a fair wind, the navigation of Johnstone strait is perfectly easy, it being only requisite to keep in mid-channel, except when nearing Helmcken island from the eastward ; when Eden point opens of the south-west Ijoint of Thurlow island, keep to the northward until the south extreme of Hardwicke island is seen open of Helmcken island, bearing S. 78° W. ; steer for this until the next point eastward of Eden point on the north side of Thurlow island is seen open of Eden point, and the point one mile westward of Camp point bears S.W. by S., when alter course to the southward (avoiding Speaker rock) and keej) in mid-channel in the passage south of Helmcken island. If wishing to anchor for the night, Vere cove, Knox, Blinkinsop, anil Forward bays, and port Harvey on the northern side, afford good anchorage, and are, with the present Admiralty charts, easy of access. BROUGHTON STRAIT, which connects Queen Charlotte sound with Johnstone strait, is upwards of 14 miles in length, east and west, the breadth varying from 1 miles at the east, to one mile at the west entrance. Its southern shore is formed by Vancouver island, and the northern by the south side of Malcolm island, and both, except near Beaver cove, are low. There are several islands, rocks, and shoals in the eastern part ; but there is a clear navigable passage along the southern side half a mile wide in the narrowest place. Sec ohai-l, Xo. 681. Ohaj). VII.] DROUGHTOX STRAIT.— TIDKS. 263 There are several anchorages along both sides of the strait, available as stopping places, — Alert bay, on the south shore of Cormorant island ; port McNeill on the Vancouver shore ; and Mitchell and Rough bays on the south side of Malcolm island. Nimpkish river, which disembogues on the south shore o£ the strait, is a stream of considerable size. ll Tides and tidal streams. — In Broughton strait it is high water, full and change, at Oh. 'AOm. ; the rise and fall being 14 or 15 feet. In the navigable channel the streams run from one to 4 knots, but in the Race and Weynton passages 3 to 5 knots, turning everywhere about 2 hours after high and low water by the shore. Beaver cove, at the south-east extreme of Broughton strait, extends upwards of one mile in a southerly direction, and is half a mile wide ; its shores are high, and the depth is too great for anchorage. Mount Holdsworth, a remarkable conical peak, 3,040 feet high, and very conspicuous from the eastward, rises 3 miles S.W. of the cove.* Nimpkish river, which flows into a shallow bay on the south shore, 5 miles westward of Beaver cove, is upwards of one cable wide at the entrance ; a bank dries off it for ne-.rly one mile, leaving a narrow winding channel with about 5 feet water, into the river.* Nimpkish river is navigable by a steam launch, at low water for about half a mile from the mouth, a rapid then stopping further progress ; at high water the rapid is quiet and a launch can reach one mile higher. A red buoy, in 3 fathoms, marks the northern extreme of Nimpkish bank opposite Alert bay. On the north bank of the Nimpkish, at the entrance, is a small plateau of grassy land, on which are the ruins 'of the large native village Cheslakee. The river flows through a broad valley bounded by high mountains for a distance of about 6 miles, and then enters lake Karmutsen, an extensive sheet of water 12 miles long. It is high water, full and change, at Nimpkish river at Oh. 30m. ; springs rise 14 feet. Green islet, off the outer edge of this bank, is about 4 feet above high water, and is small and bare ; a rocky ledge which uncovers at low water, extends half a mile East from Green islet, and there is * See Admiralty sheet of plans, No. 2,U67 ; soale, in s= 3 inuhes. 264 GEORGIA STtlAlT TO CAPE SCOTT. [Chap. VII. also a rock at the same distance West from it. When navigating the strait, this islet should not be approached within 3 cables. Port MoNeill, on the south side of Broughton strait, about K) miles West from Beaver cove, runs in W.S.W. for 2 miles, is three- quarters of a mile broad, and affords a good, well-sheltered anchorage in 6 to fathoms. Its shores are low, and bordered by a sandy beach, which extends three-quarters of a mile from the head. From Ledge point, the north point of entrance, a narrow ledge, with from 3 to 5 fathoms on it, extends 1^ miles E.N.E. towards Haddington island ; kelp grows over this ledge in summer. A red buoy is moored in 5 fathoms off the eastern extreme of the ledge. Eel reef, lying 9 cables S.S.W. from Ledge point, and about 2 cables off the south shore of the port, covers at three-quarters flood. When leaving and bound westward, stand eastward until within half a mile of Haddington island before hauling to the northward round Ledge point. Pearse Islands, in the centre of Broughton strait, at its eastern entrance, are a group of small low islands, with some rocks and reefs extending half a mile north-west, and nearly one mile south-east from them. Blakeney passagre, between Hanson island on the west and the west extremes of Cracrof t and Harbledown islands on the east, varies in width from one mile to half a mile. It connects Johnstone strait with Blacktish sound. The strength of the tidal streams in it is from 2 to 5 knots. Weynton passagre, between Hanson and Pearse islands, is aboul, IJ miles wide, with depths in mid-channel varying from 40 to 60 fathoms. J'he shores on both sides are very much broken into rocks Hiid small islands ; the tidal streams rush through at the rate of from 5 to 6 knots ; and unless wishing to anchor in Mitchell bay, it should not be used. icace passagre, between Pearse and Cormorant islands, is two- thirds of a mile wide, but a rock lies in mid-channel at its south part. The tides set at the rate of from 3 to 6 knots through the passage, and it is dangerous. Hee chart, No. 5S1. Chap. Vll.J BROUGHTON STRAIT.— ALERT BAY. 265 Oormorant island lies in the centre of Rroughton strait, west of Pearse islands. It is abont 150 feet high, 2^ miles long, east and wpst, three-vquarters of a mile wide, and bordered by a sandy beach. Gordon point, its south-east extreme, is 2^ miles W. by N. from Beaver cove. .^ small patch of 4 fathoms marked by kelp lies 1^ miles W. by S. from Leonard point, the north-west point of Oormorant island. Alert bay, on the south side of Cormorant island, is nearly one mile wide, and half a mile deep, affording a good and well-sheltered anchorage in from t) to 9 fathoms, muddy bottom ; it is easy of access. There is an establishment here for tinning salmon caught in the Nimpkish river ; and a pier, at the extremity of which there is a depth of about 12 feet, extends from the north-eastern shore of this bay.* There is also a mission established, and quite a large Indian village, comprising most of the former inhabitants of Cheslakee. Yellow bluff, the south-west point of the bay, may be recognii ad by a remarkable yellow cliff at the extreme of the point. It is high water, full and change, in Alert bay at Oh. 30m. ; springs rise 15 feet. Haddington island, 7 miles West of Beaver cove, in the centre of Broughton strait, is small ; its south and west sides are steep-to, but from the northern shore a bar, with as little as 6 feet water in some parts, connects it with Malcolm island. Between Haddington island and the ledge running off from the north point of port McNeil is a passage three-quarters of a mile wide, with not less than 7 fathoms water in mid-channel. MALCOLM ISLAND, which forms the north side of Broughton •strait, is 13J miles long W.S.W. and E.N.E., with an average breadth of nearly 2 miles ; the shores are generally low, a sandy beach extending off a short distance from them. On its south side are Mitchell and Rough bays, in which vessels may anchor in 6 or 8 fathoms. Donegal head, its east point, is high, cliffy, bordered by a beach, and the tide runs strongly in its vicinity. Dickenson point, on the south side of the island, 7 miles westward from Donegal head, is connected to Haddington island by a bar, with only 6 feet on it in some parts. * iSi'e plan of Alert bay on Admiralty chart. No. 2.067 ; scale, w =■ 8 inches. 26»; QUEEN CHARLOTTI'] SOUND. [Chap. VII. Trinity bay, on the north .side of Malcolm island between Lizard and iioulder pointa, is an open bay 21 miles wide and one mile deep. Between the points of the bay the water shoals i steeply from 10 fathoms to a ledge having 10 fathoms on its outer edge, but which again shoals rapidly, and is covered with kelp. Anchorage may, with care, be picked up on the outer edge of this ledge, in 7 fathoms, with Lizard point bearing E. by N. and Black blutf S.W. by W. ; but it is exposed to winds from the westward, between North and S.W. Kelp patch. — Foul ground marked by kelp extends half a mile oil: the western side of Malcolm island ; and I3 milos W.N.W. from Pulteney point, its south-west extreme, is a shoal patch of 4^ fathoms, also marked by kelp. Directions. — Passing through Broughton strait from the eastward, when abreast Beaver cove, in mid-channel, a W. ^ S. course, to pass not more than 2 cables south of Cormorant island, will keep a vessel clear to the northward of Nimpkish bank, and when the west point of Cormorant island bears N. by E. she will be westward of it ; then steer to round the south-west point of Haddington island within a ((uarter of a mile, to avoid the ledge off Ledge point, and when the north shore of (Jonnorant island opens of Haddington island bearing E. by N. I N., steer out of he strait in mid-channel. None, except small craft, should go northward of Haddington inland. Those in sailing-vessels would lind it tedious to beat through this strait, and as there are several dangers it is not recommended to do so. QUEEN CHARLOTTE SOUND is an extensive arm of tlie sea, connecting the inner waters north of Vancouver island with the Pacific. Its length is upwards of 30 miles, running in an easterly direction, and its breadth varies from 10 to 20 miles, being bounded on the north by the shores of the mainland of British Columbia, and on the south by the north shore of Vancouver island. In the north and north-east parts are innumerable rocks and islands ; but along its southern sides are two broad and navigable channels to or from the Pacific* Broughton strait enters this sound at its south-east part. From thence to Thomas point the coast of Vancouver trends W. by N. for ♦ Sec oharw Nos 581. 582 Cliap. VII.] liUAVBR HAUBOUK. 207 1) miles, and i« low ; it is bordered the whole distance by ii beach composed of sand and boulders, and foul ground marked by kelp extends off it, from a quarter to half a mile. If intending to enter Beaver harbour from the eastward, do not approach this shore within one mile till near Tliomas point ; and as but very few soundings have been obtained in thie part of Queen (Charlotte sound, if beating to windward, great caution ought to be observed when standing to the northward. Su quash anohoragre.— At 7 miles West from port McNeill, the south shore of Queen Charlotte sound is bordered by shoal groutd extending 4 cables off, and on which anchorage may be had in from 2^ to 4 fathoms. Care, however, must be observed when anchoring here, as reefs which dry at low water and shoal patches lie scattered about.* It is high water, full and change, at Su quash anchorage at Oh. 30m. ; springs rise 16 feet. BEAVER HARBOUR, on the south side of the sound, 9 miles westward of Broughton strait, is 3 miles wide at the entrance and 2 miles deep. The harbour is protected by several islands lying across, and within the entrance ; its shores are low, and from the south shore a bank extends 3 or 4 cables ; a short distance inland from its western side are seven remarkable hills, varying in height from 400 to 640 feet. There is good anchorage in the south and west parts of the harbour, but north-easterly winds send in a heavy sea, rendering it impossible to land in ships' boats on the south shore for days together.! Thomas point, the south-east extreme of the harbour, is low and rocky ; some rocks lie upwards of 2 cables off it to the westward. Moffat rock, H cables westward of Thomas point, is 3 cables off shore, just at the outer edge of the bank, and uncovers at low water. Deer island, two-thirds of a mile North of Thomas point, is about H miles in circumference, wooded, and about 240 feet high ; its shores are rocky, and extending nearly 4 cables off its north-west part is a reef marked by kelp, with 9 feet water over it. Eagle island lies close off its south-east point, with a small rock, 15 feet high, not more than a quarter of a cable from its southern extremity. * See plan of Su qua.- anchorage on Admiralty chart, No. 581 ; scale, in = U inches, t ike Admiralty plan of Beaver harbuur, Nu. 2,007 ; ucale, in = ij iachou. :ii 268 QUEEN CHARLOTTE SOUND. [Chap. VII. Twin rock lieB midway between Round and Peel islands ; a reef extends for more than one cable from its east and south ends, the latter being nearly connected with the shoal extending from the north end of Deer island. Ro md island, half a mile N. by E. of Deer island, is small, but high, and conspicuous from the eastward. Peel island, 200 feet high, in the north part of Beaver harbour, is three-quarters of a mile long S.W. and N.E., about one-third of a mile broad, and Ijetween it and the west shore of the harbour is Daedalus passage 2 cables wide in the narrowest part, with 17 fathoms water ; at 4 cables north of it are the Charlie islets, small, and two in number. A rock, marked by kelp, with a depth of 5 feet on it at low water, lies with the northern point of Round island bearing W. by N. ^ N., distant l^^^ cables. There is a depth of 2 fathoms, also marked by kelp, distiint half a cable S.S.W. from the rock. Cattle islands, which lie in the middle of the harbour, are small and connected with each other at low water, and at 1| cables, N.N.W. of the islands, there is a shoal of '^ fathoms. At 1^ cables south of them is Shell islet, the observation spot on its top is in lat. 50° 42' 36" N., long. 127^ 25' 7 " W. ; a reef awash at high water lies one cable south of it. Cormorant rock, lying one-third of a mile off the western shore of the harbour, and nearly half a mile West of Shell islet, covers at high water, and has from 4 to 6 fathoms close-to ; mid- way between this rock and Cattle islands is a shoal patch of i)^ fathoms. Dillon point, the north-west extreme of the harbour, and separating it from Hardy bay, is bold and rocky ; some small islets lie to the south-east of it close in shore. Directions. — Beaver harbour is easy of access to sailing-vessels as well as steamers. There are three passages into it, but the southern between Thomas point and Deer island is the best, and generally used. This channel is wide enough for a vessel to beat through ; and the only caution required in entering it, is not to -ound Thomas point nearer than 2 cables in order to avoid the rocks off its north-west part, after passing which steer for Shell islet. If 3ntering the harbour by Dsedalus passage, steer in mid-channel ; passing between Cormorant rock and the 3^ fathoms shoal 1^ cables eastward of it. A sailing-vessel could not easily work through it, See chart, No. 2,Uti7. Chap. VIT.] BEAVER HARBOUR.— BARONET rAS.SAOE. 2*59 however, as the breadth abreast Peel island contracts to about li cables. Anchor in 10 to 12 fathoms about 2 cables south-east from Shell islet, with Thomas point East, or E. by N. Good anchorage in from 6 to fathoms, and better sheltered from all w inds, may be obtained westward of the Cattle islands : but in rounding Shell islet give it a berth of about 2 cables to avoid the reef south of it. Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in Beaver harbour at Oh. 30m. ; springs rise 15|, neaps 1 1^ feet. Hardy bay, westward of Beaver harbour, separated from it by Dillon point, indents the coast in a southerly direction for 4 miles ; it terminates in a narrow creek 1} miles long, and 2 to 4 cables broad, with a sand-bank extending off its head for three-quarters of a mile. The shores of the bay are ragged, and off the west side, near the head, are some outlying rocks. There is no anchorage, except in the small creek at the hea<l, which is difficult of access, and should not be used by a stranger. Masterman islands, off the north-east point of the bay, about three- quarters of a mile from the shore, are small, wooded, and four in number ; foul ground exists between them and the shore. The eastern shores of Queen Charlotte sound consist of an archipelago (Broughton archipelago of Vancouver), 12 miles in length, extending from Hanson island {nee page 262) on the south, to the entrance to Fife sound on the north. Between the numerous islands, islets, and rocks which form this archipelago, are many narrow channels leading to the entrances of extensive chasm-like inlets, in which the water is of great depth, and the shores rise in almost sheer precipices to a height of from 5,000 to 6,000 feet, and further inland to stupendous peaks, clad in perpetual snow. Down the barren, rugged sides of these mountains rush numberless cataract^', caused by the melting snow. The intense dreariness and gloom in these inlets, and the .ilmost entire absence of life, cause them to present a most unnatural and weird aspect. Baronet passagre. — From Blakeney passage {ftee page 264) along the north shore of Cracroft island, between it and Harbledown island, is a narrow channel 6 miles long, known as Baronet passage. At this distance it splits into several small passages, lying between many small islands, islets, and rocks, the navigation of which must be undertaken with considerable caution. Sft chart, No. 5.S1. •?70 QUEEN CHARLOTTE SOUND. [Ohap. VTT. Kelp rockf< lie just within the entrance to Baronet passage, on the north shore, and extend over 2 cables oft" shore in some places, two of them uncovering at low water 8 and 3 feet respectively ; they loav»^ a channel 1^ cables wide along the south shore in which is a depth of 10 fathoms. From here the passage is clear as far an Channel island, 4 miles from the entrance, and maintains an uniform depth of 8 fathoms. The channel on either side of Channel island is less than one cable wide, that to the northward being the deeper. Steamer passage, between the islands above mentioned as lying <) iniles from the entrance to Baronet passage, is one cable wide, with depths of 10 to ir> fathoms in it. Great care must be observed when passing through Steamer passage, as a dangerous rock, awash at low water, lies a little over 2 cables N.N.W. of it. Clio channel, the continuation of Baronet passage, to the north-east along the north side of Cracroft island, between it and Turnour island, and communicating with Knight inlat, is 7 miles long, Negro rock (awash at low water), lies in the fairway half a mile S.W. by W. from Sambo point, and to avoid which the south-east shore of Turnour island should be kept aboard at about 2^ cables distai\t. Lagoon cove, a small sheltered nook on the north side of Double islands, 2 miles S.E. of the junction of Clio channel with Knight inlet, affords anchorage for a small vessel in 10 fathoms. When entering, pass in mid-channel between the north shore of Double islands and a small round island northward of them, but do so with caution. From the head of Lagoon cove a chain of lakes connect the cove with port Harvey {see page 259). Harbledown island, forming the northern shore of Baronet passage, is G^ miles long, in an E.N.E. and W.S.W. direction, and '] miles across at its broadest part, its highest elevation (over Baronet passage) being 1,240 feet. Parson bay, on the west side of Harbledown island, is 1^ miles deep, and three-quarters of a mile wide, shoaling gradually from 30 fathoms just inside the entrance to 14 fathoms at its head. Anchorage may be obtained in the south-east corner, well sheltered from all but westerly winds blowing down Blackfish sound, in which direction it is open. See chart, No. 581. Cliap. VII.] BARONRT PASSAGE.— FAHEWKLL HARROm. •271 Compton island, three-quarters of a mile lonj? east anil west, is JWO feet high, and is separated from Harbledown island by White Beach passage. Berry island, north-east of Compton island, is nearly one mile long and forms the east side of Farewell harbour. Lewis island is separated from Berry island by Villa<;e passage ; it is 2^ miles long, and forms the north side of Farewell harbour, and the entrance to Knight inlet lies along its northern shore. BLACKFISH SOUND, between the north shore of Hanson island and Swanson island, has an average width of li miles, and leads from Queen Charlotte sound into Parson bay and Blakeney passage to the south-east, and to Farewell harbour and White Beach passage to the northward. Swanson island, forming the north shore of Blackfish sound, is 2^ miles long, east and west, and one mile wide, with regular bold shores, and only one or two small indentations. Harbour cone, at its east end, is 510 feet high. Numerous small islets and reefs lie off the north shore of the island for nearly one mile. Freshwater bay, on the south side of Swanson island, about 4 cables westward of the southern entrance into Farewell harbour, affords anchorage for small vessels in G fathoms, but it is exposed to southerly winds.* Farewell harbour is a snug anchorage for a small vessel, half a mile across in every direction. Its approaches, however, both from the northward and southward, are only half a cable wide, that to the northward from the main entrance to Knight inlet being obstructed by the Twilight reefs and several islets lying half a mile outside it. Entering through North passage, Charles point (the west entrance point), kept touching Maggy point (the southern point of North passage on the eastern shore), bearing S.S.E., clears the Twilight reefs, passing eastward of them.* The southern entrance, named West passage, between Punt rock and Apples island (lying close to the shore of Swanson island), and the Star islands lying off the north-west shore of Compton island, leads out of Blackfish sound and must be approached with caution, as shoal ground extends 2 cables in a south-west direction from the latter islands, having on its extreme a depth of 4 fathoms, leaving a passage to the east of Punt rock only half a cable wide. Twilight rock, awash at high water, lies 7 cables N.W. by N. from Charles point, and 2 cables W. ^ N. from it is Chick reef, one ca de * See plan of Farewell harbour on Admiralty chart. No. 681 ; scale, 7» = 2*5 inohea; 272 QUKBN CHARLOTTK SOUND. [Chap. VI T. in extent, and drying 4 feet. To the wefltwanl of the above dangers 18 a group of Hinall islets and reefs extending along the whole of the north shore of Swanson island nearly one mile from it. The southern entrance, which should only be taken by a small vessel, should bo approached on a N.E. | N. bearing, passing three- quarters of a cable from Bare rock (10 feet high) at the east side of Freshwater bay, 2h cables S.W. from Punt rock ; on this bearing Stripe island, a small island on the north shore of the harbour, should be seen midway between Apples and Star islands. When abreast of Apples island haul gradually to the eastward and anchor in 18 fathoms in the middle of the harbour, with north point of Star island bearing W. by S. .^ S., and Maggy point N. by W. ^ W., distant 1^ cables from Compton island. If it can be clearly made out, the north extreme of Kamux island open a little north of the north-west Star island, bearing N.E., will clear the shoal ground extending south-west of the Star islands. Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in Farewell harbour at Ih. ; springs rise 15 feet, neaps H feet. Villa§re passage, between Lewis and Berry islands, is a narrow but apparently clear channoi Ij cables wide, leading out from the north-east part of Farewell harbour, north of the Carey group, to Native anchonvge. White Beach passagre, between Compton island and the north- west point of Harbledown island, is in its narrowest part only 80 yards across, and must be used with great caution. This passage also leads up through Indian passage, south of the Carey group, to Native anchorage. Villagre island, 3 miles long and 787 feet high, is situated 2 miles eastward of Lewis island, and is bounded on the north by Knight inlet and separated from Tumour island on the south-east by Canoe passage. The space between Lewis island and Village island is occupied by the Indian islands. A narrow pass, Elliot passage, leads into Knight inlet, between the easternmost of these islands and Village island. At the south-west end of Village island is MamalilacuUa village, and at the mouth of a small bay to the south-eastward of it, at the entrance to Canoe passage, is Native anchorage, with from 7 to aieti chart, No. 5Sl. (•Im)). Vri-l UlwVCKI'MSH SOUND.— KNir;HT INT.KT. -m S fiillioiDK. Hiiil islaiiils, two siiiull isl*>ts, li«> to tlic rtuiitliwa of it, find (MiinM and (Veil islets to llu" westward. Carey group, if< n clia'm of several small islands lyinj,' to th« southward of tlu' Indian islands, and stretehin^' across from Herry ifiland to Tumour ialand, a distance of 3 nxiles. Tumour island is 9 miles lon^' E.N.K. and W.S.W., and at iti centre '^ miles wide, narrowin;,' towards its extremitit's ; at its eastern end it is 1,580 feet hif?h. It is s-.-parated from Harbledown island on the south by Beware passaj,'e, Clio ehanntd ninninj? alonj? its south-east side, and Kni^jflit inlet alonj; its north-west sidt', the juncti(m of these two passaj^es takiuLf ])lacc at liatt bluff, its north-east point. Beware passage, lying between the north-east shore of Harbledown island and the south-\/t^st shore of Turnour island, leads from Native aiidioragc e;istw.ii'.l into Clio eh inn;'!. Vessels cannot pass tlnvtuj^h it Into Clio channel, owin^' to a Itai-rier of islets and rocks across it, at one niile from its junction with that channel. An Indian villaj^e (Karlukwei'S) is situated on 'I'njiionr island at the eastern entraiu-e to Beware passage. Canoe passage is a narrow pass leadinjjf from Native anchorage ahmg the south-east shore of Village island, l)etween it and Turnour island. At "2 miles uj) it is comidetely closed at low water by a stony barrier which dries across, jiud it is only available for canoes at high water. KNIGHT INLET.— Main entrance to this inlet, whi^i is one of the most extensive of the sea canals o!" British Columbia, lies northward of Swanson, Lewis, and Village islands, between them and Midsummer island and several smaller islaudn and rocks lies 'Sh miles E.N.K. from Donegal h'ead, the east extreme of Malcolm island, and may be easily recognised by White Cliff islands, a ch liu of small islets of a whitisli colour situated on the northern side of the pas.sage into the inli't. The enti-ancr- betwetui Wedge island on the north, and the n(»rth-west shore of Swanson island on the south, is ;^ cables wide, but further east Twilight reefs and Clock rook must be avoided ; the former is l| miles, ami the latter .') miles from Wedge island. These dangers should be passed to the north- ward, and .Jumble island, lying between them, to the southward. Srt: cluvrt. >"o. r)S|. SO II 'J IS 274 QURKN CHAItliOTTK HOUND. [CMmp. VI f after which » mi(l-('lii(imfl courHc Hlioultl lu' pn'scrved until wiHt of Lixly iHJaiKlH. Thp ontrancp propor to Kul>,'lit inlet, hot wt'Pii Wurr hliiff on the south anti Slopo point on tht« nortli, \n tliree-tiuarters of a mile wiile, and !)}s niiles from Wedgp ishvnd. From thence the inlet trends in a fjenend K.N.K. ilirection for X\ miles, and then turns 8U(Uleidy to the northward for 2(5\ miles to its termination, with an average width throughout of I i miles. The shores of the inlet are generally hold, and formed hy high mountains rising i)recipitously trom the water's edge, and (h>\vii the sides of which rush miny eatanicts produced by the dissolving snow. The water is everywhere deep, except at a spot about 7 miles eastward of Sargeaunt passage, where a rocky ridge was found to extend across the inlet, and on which there are heavy overfalls, but no less de])th than 2'.\ fathoms was obtained. There are but few i)laces that afford anchorage ; port Klizabeth on the north shore, and filendale cove on the south being the only two that may be considered available. At 11.^ miles east of Slope point. Tribune channel branches off to the northAvard. Tidal streams. — The tidal streams at the entrance to Knight inlet run at the rate of from one to )\ kn(»ts. Wedgre island, a small round island two cables in exi t, lies vU cables N.N.W. of the north-west shore of Swanson island, the channel into Knight inlet lying between them ; it may be boldly steered for, passing in mid-channel between Wedge island and the small islets lying close to the shore of Swanson island. Surge rocks are a small group of rocky islets lying 3 cables X.N.E. from Wedge island. White Cliff islands.— From Wedge island a line of small islets, named White (Miff islands, extends over one mile in a N.W. ^ N. direction witli patches of shoal water between. A rock awash at high water lies nearly one cable north-westward from the northern islet. These islands by their colour, as indicated by their name, form a very conspicuous object, and woxild be most useful for a stranger to identify the entrance to the main channel of the inlet. The southern White Cliff island is situated in latitude 50^ 38' 40" N., longitude 126° 44' 2(1" W. iSir chart, \o, 5S], cimi*. ^'"1 KMCHT (M.KT. •>7.' Midsummer island, s«'i»;ir,il'mK' Kniv'ln inlt't f'n.ni Spring' passHp', is tl'i(* I'tMt liiLrli, ii milt's InH',', uixl mik' mil'' w iilf. Owl iHlund, on*- inilo in Ini^Mli, oast aii*! wvnt, ami aliinit half u mile broad, lies oil' tlw west t-ntl of MiilsiniiintT islaml, with a narrow |);issajf« (Providence pasnij,'*') between iheni. I'assa^'e islet is a small round islet, about miilway between Surye rocks and Owl island. From the northern ish^t of the White ClifT islands another channel leads into Knij^'ht inlet on either side of Pas a^'o ish't. Jumble island is half a mile Ion;; (east and west), and lies 'I miles K.N.E. from \Ved},'e island. On its west side is Xi^'ht islet, and off its east point, lie the three small liush islets. When within 2 cables of Night islet haul eastward tn pass at that distanc*' south- ward of it. Jumble island, and the Hush islets. Indian islands lie on the south side of Kiiij,'ht inlet, between liewis and Villajje islands. Hetween them are several small channels leading t«» Native anchorage (sri> page 272), Itut only the easternmost, Klliol passage, is navigable, and that only by small vessels. OlOOk rook, which covers at half-flood, liec 2), cables Nortli of the easternmost of the Indian islands, and is especially dangentus to vessels going through Elliot passage. Tct ci;-ar it keep the coast of Village island aboard 2 cables distant. Passing up or down Knight inlet, (Mock rock may lie safely passe<l by kee])ing licading point (on the north shore) in line wi h Hippie blufl' (the n<M'th extreme <if Village island) bearing N.K. by E. ^ E. Ridgre islands lie on the north side of Knight inlet between the east end of Midsummer island and the south-west shore of (lilford island, at the entrance (from Knight inlet ) of Spring passage. A rock which dries 8 feet at low water, lies 3 cables from the shore of (iilford island ; it is, however, out of the fairw.iy of vessels passing up and down Knight inlet, but shoulil be carefully avoided by those passing through Spring passage. Chop bay i^ a small bight on the north side of Knight inlet (jpposite Ripjjle bluff. Tide rip. — Heavy tide rips occur off Ripple bluff, and between it and Leading point, on the opposite shore, the tidal streams run at a rate of from 2 to 3 knots an hour. .•"i'l- chart. No. .'iSI. SO nit4s S-J 270 QUKKN CHARliOTTK ISLAND. [Chap. VIT. Lady islands, situated :5 miloH north-eaHtwanl of Leading point, the largest of which is one mile long, but narrow, with ^Jeveral small islets lying off their west extn^me, consist of two islands with deep water on both sides of them. PORT ELIZABETH.— North-westward of the Lady islands a large bight bi-anches oH" north-west, curving round vo the south-west and opening out at its head, forming a sheltered anchorage named port Elizabeth, about one mile in extent ; but which is, however, somewhat ctmtracted by two small islands lying in the middle. Duck cove, south-west of these Hniall islands, f(n-ms the termination of the port, a Hat dries off its head nearly half a mile. Anchorage may be taken up as convenient in the southern jjart of the port in from 9 to 4 fathoms ; the latter di'i)ths being found south of the eastern island, midway between it and the shore. Chatham channel, on the south side of the inlet, ;ii miles east- ward of the Lady islands, has its entrance between White Nob point (Minstrel island) and Littleton point, where it is over one mile wide Thence the channel takes a south-easterly direction, and gradually contracting in width and shoaling, it, at 4 miles from the entrance, joins the head of Havannah channel. Cutter creek, a narrow bight on the east shore of Chatham channel 1| miles deep, in a north-east direction, terminating in marshy land bordered by a sand-flat, would afford anchorage to a omall vessel in (I fathoms, but caution must be observed when ent;M'ing, as a small islet (Block islet) lies in mid-channel at the entrance, leaving a passage less than (me cable wide on each side of it, that to the south being the better. Shewell island, lying on the north side of Knight inlet, 2 miles from the entrance to Chatham chann^d, is 1^ miles long (north-easi and south-west) and 2Sn feet high : it lies at the southern entrance to Tribune channel, which it divides into Clapp and Nickoll ])assages. Viscount island, forming the eastern side of the southern entrance to Tribune channel, is 1,050 feet high, '.t miles long north and south, and one mile wide. >Vf chart. No. 5«I. Chap. VII.] KNIGHT INLET.— PORT HLIZABKTH. 277 Sargeaunt passage ( Furnish), one milo eaat of Nic'koll paai»age, 2] miles long, is a narrow pass on the east side of Viscount island, and communicates with Tribune channel. It is high water, full and change, in Sargeaunt passage at Ih. Om. ; springs rise 15i feet, neaps 12 feet. Tsa ko nu cove, on the south side of the inlet round Protection point, is probably too deep for anchorage. Hoeya sound, on the north shore of Knight inlet, 7 miles from Protection point, is a bight ludf a mile wide, indenting the coast in a N.E. by E. direction. There are depths of more than -lO fathoms over the greater part of the sound, but it shoals suddenly to ;'> fathoms at 1.J cables from its head. Prominent point, on the south shore of Knight inlet, opposite the entrance to Hoeya sound, has a rocky ridge of less water than in the centre of the inlet, extending northward from it, on which there are heavy overfalls ; the least depth obtained during the survey was 2'd fathoms. Glendale cove (Kiokh), on the south shore of the inlet, im- mediately eastward of Macdoiudd point, takes a S.S.E. direction for l;j miles, and is three-quarters of a mile wide at its entrance. It ilries about half its length, anil the water in the remaining part is deep. A river flows into the head of Glenciale cove from a sheet of water one mile distant, nametl Tom Browne lake, about 5 miles long, which extends nearly to the head of Topaze harbour. Anchorage may, with care, be taken up in the soutii-east corner in 2JJ fathoms, with the right extreme of Observation point in line with Rapid hill, and a large boulder on the west side in line with the junction of Flora and MaedonaUl ridges, but the bank is very steep-to. Glacier. — On the east shore, at 14 miles from the head, over a gully, under (ilacier peak, there is a remarkable glacier a short distance fn-m tiu' sea. Anchorage was (i-ied for, but no Itottom was obtained at one cable from the shore witli It) f ithoms of line. Mount Blair, immediately over the head of the inlet, attains an altitude of 0,550 feet. Ik'v chart, No. jt>l. ^u QVEES CFlAHIiOTTK S^orM). [Chap. Vlt. Wall ijhih la '. — At 1], miles fniiu llic lioad of Knifj^lit "mlel <»ii the west slioie. afrordrt the only place where hu anchor could l)e dropped, and Ijy securing to the trees by a hawser, in a depth of ;5(l fathoms dose to the south shore, on west side of the bay. SPRING PASSAGE, between the south-west end of (Jilford islaml ami the north shore of Midsummer island, leading from Retreat passage into Knight iidet, is about half a mile wide, but at the eastern end the channel is contracted by Broken islands to a width of 15 cables ; the i)assage being to the north of these islands. RETREAT PASSAGE, an entrance to winch lies between House and Sedge islands, extends in a northerly direction, between lion wick and Gilforil islands, for tl miles. Along the shore of Jionwick island, which is bold-to, it is a clear navigable passage ; but the eastern shore is skirted by several small islands, islets, and rocks, between which a vessel should not pass. (Seabreeze island is the dargest and southernmost of these islands. Whale rock, 3 feet high, lies 4 cables north-east irom Seabreeze island, nearly midway between it and Yellow rock at the entrance to Health bay. Health bay, on the eastern shore, a l)ight one mile deep in a south-east direction, may, however, l>e safely entered Ijy passing in mid-channel between the soiith end of Sail island (which lies oif the entrance) and Yellow rock, '^h cables south of it, or midway between the latter and the shore, when convenient anchorage in H to 10 fathoms may be obtained. A nairow i)assage in the north- east corner of the bay communicates with a lagoon. GrebG cove, a iiarrow bight, one to 2 cables broatl, on the west shore, extends one mile in a W.S.W. direction, shoaling gradually from IS fathoms oil' its entrance, to (l iathoms al its head. Camj» bay, on the east shore opposite Grebe cove, is too snuill, and has too great a depth of water in it, foi- anchoring in. Tliere is a clear channel east of the Fox islands up to the entrance of Cramer passage, passing midway between the eastern islet of the chain and Solitary island. CRAMER PASSAGE, between the south-east shore of Baker island and nortii-wesi shore of (ifilford island, leading from Ketreat passage north-eastward into Fife sound ami to Shoal harbour, is a •Vc L-liiirt. No. "iSl. chap. VI I. i liKTREAT PASSAOK.— BOXWICK ISLAND. 279 mivigubh' t'lmiinol, 2 i-ablt's wide at its southern entrance. A sunken rock lies 1 j cableH West from Powell point, the north-east entrance point of the passage. At the northern entrance, at 1 i cables from the west shore, is a sand patch, about 2 cables in extent, with from 1) to 1(5 fathoms on it. By preserving a mid-channel course the passage may be boldly taken. 8hoal harbour, on the east sliore of Cramer passage, is a narrow inlet 1] miles long (east and west), to which access is gained by a channel 150 yards across from shore to shore, in some parts less than 40 yards wide between the IJ-fathoms lines, and in which there is a depth of only llij fathoms. It is only safely available for small coasting vessels, and with local knowledge. It is high water, full and change, in Shoal harbour at Ih. ; springs rise 15 feet, neaps 10 feet. BONWIOK ISLAND is ;> miles long (north and south), and 2 miles across, its highest part being about 770 feet. Off its south- west end, north of Sedge, Start, and High islands, it is skirted by numerous small islets and rocks, between which, near the shore of Bonwick island, sheltered anchorage may be found. Fog: islands are a small group lying off" the shore of Bonwick island, on the south siile of the entrance to Arrow passage. Kveiiing rocks and the ledger extending W.S.W. from Cove island, lie half a mile soutlnvard of them. Dusky cove, the anchorage above referreel to, affords anchorage in r» to 8 fathoms, about one cable eastward of Cove island, the largest of the islets. It is entered by a passage one cable wide between ledges of rock (which extend in patcli»'s iialf a mile W.S.W. from Cove island) and a ciuiin of islets to the southward. (Jare must be o)»served, when entei-ing, to uvoid the reefs, which may be cleared by keeping the north }>oint of the small Leading island at the head of the cove in line with the north extreme of South ishind, bearing E. hy N. .V N.* The westernmost of the reel's above uiciiti(»ne(l (Kvening rocks) covers at t) feet rise, and Ledge rock, the outer of the islets on the south side of the channel, is only I? feet above high water. Tmp and South islands lie eastward of Ledge rock, the former being 25 feet high. * Sfe plan of Dusky cove on Adniiinllv uh»it. No. ."iXl ; hohIc, hi ■ '2'o inches, m UUEEX CHAin-OTTE SOUND. [Chap. Vll. It is high water, full uiid change, in Dusky cove at Ih. (»m. ; springs rise 111 feet. Horse rock, awash at low water, is a dangerous rock lying oil' the north side of the entrance to Aitow passage, 8 caldes W. J, S. from the westernmost Fog island, and i) cables S.S.E. from the Coach islands. ARROW PASSAGE, l>etween I'unwick island to the s»»uti)- e ist, and Hudson and .Mars islands on tlie north-west, is a navigable channel. Having passed Horse rock, the passage may be boldly passed through in mid-channel, and if necessary, pass westward of Fox islands, and roumling the northern islet of that group at 1^ cables, pass between it and Steep island and enter Cramer passage. The Coach isjlands are a group of several small islands lying on the north side of the entrance to Arrow passage : they extend over a distance of three-quarters of a mile from the south-west end of Hudson island. This island, on the north side of Arrow passage, north-east of the Coach islands, is one mile long, and 'M, cables ))road. Mars island, 2| miles long, and three-quarters of a mile wide, lies close to, and north-eastward of Hudson island. Spiller passage, between it and Hudson island, leads out north-Avest amongst the islets on the south-west side of Eden island, and into Trainer and Philips passages. SUNDAY HARBOUR is a small l»ut sheltered anchorage all'ording refuge for small vessels. The western i-ntrance is between Hcrub island and Huston island (a small islet lying 2 cables north of it ). Half a niik^ in, the channel contracts to less than one cable betweon Narrows island and Island point, between which is a ridge with 4), fathoms on it, deepening again to 7 fathoms. There is a passage out to the eastward leading into Spiller passage.'* Crib island, forming the north-west shore of Sunday harbom*, is 1} miles long, and half a mile Avide at its broadest part. Anchorage should be taken up in mid-channel as convenient, but at not more than .'5 cables from the Narrows, in .5 fathoms, Avith Hush point bearing N. o F., and north point of Kale islaml shut in with Island point. &r jtlun <>{ Siiu'liij' liiirljouron AiliuinUty chart, No. .'.si ; sii\\\v, m - :ij iuolics Chap. VII.] ARHONV PASSAClh;.— FIFE SOUND. •ix\ It is liiffli water, full ami cliaii.i^c, in Siimlay liarliour at Ui. ; springs rise KJ feet. Eden island, forming the suuth-eurttern shore of the entrance to Fife sound, is about 4 miles long E.N.E. and W.S.W., anil l[, miles broad, and has some smaller islands and rocks otl its western end. Its south-west shore is a little more than half a mile northwai'd of Crib island, and the passage between them is divided, by a gro\i[) of islets lying in the centre, into two passages, that to the northward named Trainer, and that to the southward Philips passage. Marsden islands are a group of five islets lying eastward of the two passages ; south wartl of them, towards Spiller passage, ai'e several other islets and i-ocks ; but north-we t and north of them there is a clear channel to the north-east leading into .Joe cove (Kden island) and Misty passage, and thence northward through Blunilen and Old passages, on either side of Insect island, into Fife sound, south of the Benjamin group. These passages are, however, very narrow, anil shoal in places, and are not navigable except by small coasters. Tracey island, 1 J, miles long, and three-quarters of a mile wide in its bntadest ])art, lies betw'een tiie east emls of Kden and Mars islands. Between it and Eden ishuul is Misty passage. Monday anchorage, between Tracey island and Mars island, is a sheltered position affording secure anchorage midway between the shores of the above islands in about 8 fathoms. Baker island, forming part of the southern shore of Fife sound and the western side of Cramer passage, is situated eastward of Eden island, the triangular-shaped island named Insect lying between them. It is l,'.)i<it feet high, 4] miles long E.N.E. and W.S.W., and l^ miles broad. FIFE SOUND, bounded on the north by Broughton island, and on the south by Eden, Insect, and Baker islands, and the Benjamin group lying to the northward of them, and leading from Queen Charlotte sound to Hutlej and Tribune channels and Kingcome inlet, extends in a general N.E. and E.N.E. direction for 8 miles, v/hen the Burdwood group divides it into two channels (Raleigh and Hornet passages) leading into Tribune channel ; it has an average breadth of over one mile. S:v chiut. No, jSl. 282 (jl liRN (JMAUliOTTK SOUND. [Chap. Ml. Fife snmid, hctWHeii IViicrte pt'iiiiisula and the lUirdvvood group, at S miles Iroiii its eiitraiieo, turns suddenly to the westward and joins PiMiphrase passage, which connects it with Sutlej channel and Kingcome inlet. The entrance from Queen Charlotte sound, between Duff island (south shore) and the entrance to CuUen harl)our (north shore), may l)e boldly steered for, passing at about half a mile south-east of Gore rock (4 feet high), which lies -bout one mile westward of the t'ntrance. Foster island, the summit of which forms a i'emarka])le cone a.l)<)ut '270 feet high, lies al)out ') miles S.W. by S. from the entrance of Fife sound. Olf its south side are the Twin islets (Oo feet high), and off the north side is a patch of kelp, which )nay possibly overlie a rocky danger. The Twin islets lie 2i miles >i.N.E. ^ E. from Lizard point, the north-east entrance point of Trinity bay (Malcolm island). The channel between is named George passage. *i Penfold island, tjr» feet high, covered with trees, and small, lies \}j miles eastward of Foster island ; the channel between Foster and Tenfold has not Ijeen examined. Holford islands, lying 2 miles N. by K. from Foster island, consist of two sniull islands, covered with trees, the tops of which are from ](IU to 2* M) feet high. From the western island, a reef which uncovei's ;{ feet at low water, extends one-third of a mile Avestward, and the islands in this direction should I)e given a berth of one mile. Salmon channel is between Foster island and Holford islands, in which a mid-channel course should be kejjt. CULLEN HARBOUR, on the soulii side of Mroughton island, ai tlie eiitnuiee to Fife sound, extends ul^out 7 cables in a N.N.W. direction. Its eiitiauee betwt't n Nelly island and the shore west- ward of Gordon i)oint is less than one cable wide, and, when entering, care should l)c taken to keep exactly in mid-channel. Inside, the harbour ojjens out to ;} cables wide, with depths of from 4 to (S fathoms.* At the heatl of the harbour, on the west side, a narrow boat passage, through which the tide runs with great strength, leads into Booker lagoon. m * » Plan of CuUcn liurbouroii .^dii'iralty chart, No. 571 ; scale, m = ti iuchcs. chap. VII.] FIFK SOUND.— VI NEU SOUND. :.'s:>, Anchoragre may he ha-l, w.'ll sIiiIi.'ihmI, in ,") talliniiis, samly iHttlom, at 1 2 cables 8. by E. from Davidsou island at the head of the harbour. Tides. — it is hiyh water, full and cliauj;'.', in CiiUcn liarboiir at noon ; sprinj^s rine 16 feet, neaps lU feet. Deep harbour, on lh«- north side of Fife sound, 7 miles within the entrance, is formed by a narrow inlet in IVarsc peninsula. At its entrance is .Iumi»er island, 2 cal)les eastward of wliicii, and just north of two small islets, is a reef, leavinji; a clear i)assage, 2 cables wide, along the north shore. The depths in the harltour vary from 14 to 157 fathoms ; but anchorage may be found oil' a small bight on the south shore, in IS fathoms, at '.) cables soutli-westwaril of the narrow entrance to the bight which forms the head of the harbour. Benjamill grroup, consisting of three islands and several smaller islets and rocks, lie ott' the south shore of Fife inlet, opposite Deep harbour. Indian passage, the narrow channel lying between them and the south shore, has a shoal patch of 1!, fathoms in it, and though otherwise apparently clear of danger, should not be attempted. Rugrgred island, lying l), miles eastward of Gull rock 'at the eastern extreme of the Benjamin grotip), has a rocky patch extending J o cables from its north-west side. Pym rock, which uncovers 2 feet at low water, and is stee[)-to, is a dangerous patch lying in the way of vessels entering Cramer passage. ^ Viner sound, on the .south-eastern shore of Fife sound, about ;'• miles north-east of Hugged island, gradually narrows from oiu' mile at (he enti'ance to 2 cables wide at the head, from which a lumk, drying at low water, extends half a mile. Anchorage may be had in 10 fathoms at about three-quarters of a mile from its head, abreast an Old Indian village. Burdwood group lies off the entrance to Viner sound. The largest, which is the north-western one, is 700 feet high. Do not pass between them. It is high water, full and change, in Viner sound al ih. Onx. springs rise 1.") feet, neaps 10 feet. •St' chart, No. ')X\. '.'H4 (iUEEN OHARLOTTK SOUNn. [(.'hap. VII. I Simoom sound, the futraiuf to wliicli is 1} inilt'ri N.W. from tlif Hardwood ^m'ou]) l)et\veen Deep Sea blutf on the east, and Folhird point on th«' we.st, extendn l.\ miles N.N.E, aiui then turns suddenly to West, which direction it maintains for nearly '2 miles as far as Curtis point, wliere the widtli decreases from half a mile to 2 cables, and the inlet bends to the south-west, expanding to a width of half a mile at its head, which is only separated by a narrow neck of land from 120 to 150 feet wide from Shawl bay, an indentation on the east side of Sutlej channel, and forming Wishart peninsula. The width oi SinH)om sound at the entrance is one-third of a mile, and on the eastern side, one mile from Deep Sea bluff, is the small islet l^iouisa. The water is dee}), but where the sound turns to the westward it slioals to 40 and gradually to 20 fathcmis, and south- westward of Curtis point in O'Bi'ien bay, decreases to 11 fathoms. Raleigh passage, northward of the Burdwood group, connects Tribune channel with Fife sound and Sutlej channel ; there is also a passage to the southwaril of the grouj) called Hornet passage. There is deep water in both these passages, but the former is the widei" and the more direct. TRIBUNE CHANNEL extends in a north-east direction for 10 miles ; it then takes a south-easterly and easterly direction for ') nailes to the entrance of Thompson sound ; thence it turns to the southward for 7 miles, communicating with Knight inlet (see page 273). Kwatsi bay, on the north shore of Tribune channel, about 8 miles eastward of the Burdwood group, indents the coast for al)out 2 miles in a northerly direction. The water in the southern part is very deep, but shoals at half a mile from the head of the bay to 2(S fathoms, and gradually to 1)5 fathoms. Wall ka na bay, on the south shore, opposite to Kwatsi bay, indents the shore of Gilford island in a south-westerly direction for nearly 2 miles, varying from 2 to i cables in width ; the depth at about one mile within the entrance being ;i2 fathoms, and near the head 18 fathoms. Bond sound, which indents the north shore, extends 3 miles, and has an aver.ige widtli of nearly one mile. Owing to the great depth of water, it affords no anchorage, there being 30 fathoms close Scf ohart, No. 581. Chap. VII.] TUIUrNK CHANNKL.— MUOUUHTON ISLANf). 2H.'» along«ido tlu' ininl Icmk ut its head, tliron^'li which somo wtrcains enter the sound. Thompson sound, <> )niU'S Houth-oaHtward ol' lioiul sound, extends in a north-east direction for 5 miles, its entrance bein^' on the east shore opposite Trafford point, where Tribune channel turns to the southward. At the head of the sound is SackvilU' island, and the Kakweiken river flows into the sound northward of it. Ik'tween Saekville island and the nuid Hat off the river, the dcjiths shoal, but rather steeply ; anchoraf,'e, however, might with ease be picked uj) in the north-east corner, in 12 fathoms. Humphrey rock, Avith ;} fathoms water on it, lies nearly in the centre of the southern part of Tribune channel, abreast Hambcr point, the west salient point of Viscount island, and 2 miles to the north- ward of the north-east point of She well island. Gilford island, the lar^'est of the islands formini,' till' archii)elai,'o (m the eastern shore of Queen Charlotte sound, is IS/, miles lonjj in a north-east and south-west direction, and 11 miles wide at its north- east end, gradually decreasing to 2 miles near its south-west extreme (Bare hill). Gilford island is considerably elevated, the highest parts being near the north-east end, where mount Head rises to a height of 4,820 feet ; mount James, near the centre, is 2,()7() feet high. The south-west part of the island, however, is not so lofty, the hills over Rare hill point not being more than '.•2") feet high ; but round its eastern, southern, and northern shores mountains ranging from 2,(I()() to l,f»CK) feet high rise almost precipitously from the coast. Evangeline rock, which dries at low water, lies about 1.^ cables W.N.W. from White point on the north-west side of the island. BROUGHTON ISLAND, which forms the north-west shore of Fife sound, and the southern and western shore of Sutlcj channel, is 15 miles long in an east and west direction, and (i miles wide at its western end, gradually tajiering to one mile Avide at its eastern extreme. The island is much indented, the largest inlet, Greenway sound, nearly separating the island into two j)arts ; and a canoe l)assage also leads from Greenway sound to Carter bay, at the west point of the island, thus detaching the northern part of Broughton island, which is, therefore, really another island. The hills on Broughton island are not so lofty as those of the mainland contiguous .S^^ chart, No. 581. •>«»; «^TTRK\ CHAUI.OTTK SOUN'D. [rhap. vn. to it, the lii.i,'hfsl pwikrt bciu},' moniit ISrowiu', 1,7 I '» Ift't.mi the north shore (»f Gn't'invay houiuI, and Quoin or Stoiicy mountain, IJtW tVct hi^h over the ciitrant'o to D«M>i) harbour; tlic rcniainini,' hill ranj/fH viiryinfj; from (!(ii> to l,(KHt ft'ot in ht'ij,'hl. Dobbin l)iiy ami Cockatrice bay alFord no anchorat^c. Polkingrhorne islands lie off the coaat at the entrance to Welln jtass ; the lar^'est irtland, IW feet high, being over one mile iu length in u N.W. and S.E. direction, but only about 2 cables wide, and is distant from Rroughton island li miles. Ft)nl ground extends for some distance from the east side of this group, and it should not be ai)proiU'lied within a distance of half a mile. Caution. — Vessels jjissing between the l^)lkin'jrhorne islands, Vincent, and Percy islands, should do so with great caution, and should not attempt to piss between the latter island and Dickson island. Carter bay is formed between Dickson island and Broughton island, on the east shore of Wells pass ; the water in it is deep. WELLS PASS is the entrance to Sutlej channel from Queen Cliarlotte sound. From the entrance between lioyles point and Percy island, the pass extends .') miles in a N.N.E. direction to its junction with Patrick passage, Grappler s(»und, and Drury inlet. The width at the southern part, between Dickson island and Popple- well point, is only half a mile, widening gradually to one mile at I he northern end. Ommaney islet, about 120 feet high, is the westernmost of tlie islets lying in Wells pass ; its south and south-east sides are surrounded by kelp to a distance of about 2 cables, amongst which are rocks drying at low water. The passage into Wells pass is west ward of Ommaney islet, which narrows the navigable channel to a width of 4 cables. When entering Wells pass and approaching Ommaney islet, keep the highe.^t peak of Numas islands (lying ofl" the entrance) just open of Boyles point until Ommaney islet is well shut in under Dickson island ; whence steer to pass in mid-channel between the islet and James point. SUTLEJ CHA.NNEL from its entrance (Wells pass) takes a N.N.Fi. direction for nearly 5 miles, varying from three-quarters to See chart, No, 581. Chap. VII.] WKIil.S PASK— THACKV HARBOUR. •,'K7 on«i milo In liroadtli. At that diKtancc it tnrnw to tlic eastward throujfh Patrick pasrtajje between Atkinwoii and Kiunaird inlands, and thence Houtli-castward lor (» uiiU's to tlie »Miiran«e lo (in'oiiway sound, whence it takes a j,'eneral K.S.K. direct iou throu^'ii PuhU'v and Sharp passages (on either side of the Stackhouse island), to its junction with Penphrase passage {nee page 2S1>) and Kingcome inlet. It is a deep channel throughout, and there is no known inipediiuent to safe navigation by maintaining a mid-channel course. TRAOEY HARBOUR, on the eastern shore of Sutlej channel (Broughton island), nearly '.) miles within Wells pass, is at its entrance between Lambert island (on the north) and Mauve islet, 4 cables wide, but it soon narrows from 2i to 1.^ cables, maintaining that width for a little over one mile in an east direction ; the harbour then opens out and forms two bights at its head, Napier bay, tlie northern, being 2h cables broad. The only known danger is tlie reef skirting Star rock (which lies on the n(»rth shore about half-way through the narrow portion of the harbour).* Anchoragre, completely sheltered, may be ol)tained in from ('» to 7 fathoms in Napier bay, «tr abreast Freshwater cove, at about 2 cables E.S.E. of Star rock, in Id fathoms, mud l)ottom. Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in 'I'racey harbour at noon ; springs rise UJ feet, neaps rise IH feet. Lambert island, on the north side of the ejitrance to Tracey harbour, is 2/, cables long and 2 cables wide, and li.">() feet high ; immediately to the eastward of it is Wolf cove, extentling -I cables in a north-easterly direction with a width of 2 cables at the entrance, gradually narrowing to one cable ; it, however, atfonls no anchorage. Atkinson island, 715 feet high, lies close off the north-west shore of Broughton island, at 2 miles northward of the entrance to Tracey harbour; some islets extend off its south-west point. Do not attempt to pass between it and Broughton islajid. Surgeon islands, a group of small islets close together. He half a mile West of Atkinson island at the entrance to Patrick i)assage. Einnaird island, 080 feet high and l^ miles long, liis on the east side of Grappler sound, with Dunsany passage on the east and Patrick passage on the south. .Srr plan of Tracey harbour on Admiralty chart. No. 571 ; suale. m=:G*0 inchps. •>HS • M'KRN (JHAKMHTK SOT'ND. [Ohll]*. VII. Qreenway sound, <>m i\w H(mth hIiokc <>I" Snilcj cliaiiiu'l, '> milcH onHtWf'rd (»r I'atriok pansiif;*', lias doep wat^r throuj?li(»iit itH entire extent, and aftordn no anchoraj^'e ; inside itH entntnce are Cecil and Maude islets, ISO and If)!) fet^t hi^rli. CYPRESS HARBOUR, in Hluiri) passage, 2h miles eastward of the entranei' to (ireenway soinul, extends about one uiik' south ; the up|)er half, however, is botii narrow and shallow. The entrance between Donald head (on the east side) and Woods ))oint is 2 cables wide, but the navif:fal)le channel is only a little over one cable wide ; the harltour tlu-n ojx'ns, and is from 'i to 4 cables across, the depths varying from !'.• fathoms in mid-channel to (5 fathoms abreast Berry cove.* Fox rock, awash at high water, lies in the entrance, and is the outer part of a reef which extends one cable East from Woods point. Anchoragre. — (Jood anchorage may be obtained on the west side 1 cables from Woods ])oint in t! fathoms, mud bottom, oft" T^erry cove, at one cable N.E. by X from Tree islet. The land southward of the anchorage, between the iiead of Berry cove and Botl'ey jjoint, is fringed with large cyi)ress trees. A stream of fresh water flows int(» Berry cove. Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in Cypress harbour at noon ; springs rise l(i feet, neaps U.j feet. Stackhouse island, (J'.'O feet high, is about half a mile in extent, and lies in the middle of Sutlej channel abreast the entrance to Cyjiress harbour. Sharp passage to the southward of it, and Pasley l)assage to the northward, are both half a mile wide. Magin islands, three small islands from 120 to 180 feet high, lie one mile northward of Stackhouse island, and half a mile froni the west shore, a small rock, awash at hij 'i water, lying between. Tidal streams in Sutlej chanurl v-.m at the rate of from one to ',\ knots. KINGCOME INLET, at its entrance, is 2 miles wide, but the navigable channel between the Magin islands (lying off the west shore) and Bradley point (the west point of Gregor)' island) is contracted to 1] miles in width. Its termination on the northern * Sec plan of CyprosM Imrbonr, on Admiralty chart, .Vo. 571 ; scnlo. w = (lO inches. Chap. vr4,] kinocomb ihht.— pbnpiikask passage. 289 Hhoru iH a ^>w marshy \Aa\i\, dotted with patches of Hcrnb an<l Btnnlt'il trees, and bordered by a flat tvf soft mud and sand 1 1 miles wide, which oxtemls half a mile from the shore. This Hut in Hteep-to. The northern shores of this inlot are bordered by snow -clad jx'aks of .'ijODO to (!,(K)0 i'i'kH in height, which are conspicuous from yiieeii Charlotte sound ; the suuthern shore iw not (juife so lofty, the ranj^e varying from li,U(Mt to 4,U()0 feet. Kingconu- mountains, ;'),(]()() feet high, rise over the head of this inlet, being 2 miles inland in an easterly direction. Anchoragre. — Kingcome inlet, in regard to the great dei)tli of ■water, presents the same features as most of tlie chasm-like fiords on this coast. Anchorage, however, may be obtained in J«S fathoms, oil' a small cove, near two small bight.s, at li miles S.S.E. of the head of the inlet. "Wakem.an sound, on the northern shore of Kingcome inlet, branches oft" N.N.W. at (5 miles from the entrance, in which direction it extends for a distance of .5 miles, terminating in a low marshy plain, uotted with patches of scrub and stunted trees, through whicli several streams flow, bringing down from the high ranges inland the melting snow, and causing the water for one mile from the head of the sound to be perfectly fresh at low water, and of a dull milky colour. At its head is an Indian village. The water is too deep for anchorage. Belleisle sound, on the south shore of Kingcome inlet, at 3 miles E.S.E. from the entrance to Wakeman sound, has its entrance through a narrow pass which lies south of the small Edmond islands. The inlet takes a S.E. direction for about one mile, and then suddenly turns to the S.W. for a further distance of 3 miles ; it, however, from its great depth of water, affords no anchorage, Penphrase passagre, connecting Stitlej channel and Kingcome inlet with Fife sound and Tribune channel, is about 2;} miles long E. by N., and W. by S. The west entrance l»etween Hayes and Vigis points is one mile wide, but the width of the passage decreases to 2| cables abreast of Trivett island. About one cable East from Trivett island is a shoal patch of 3 fathoms. See chart, No. 581. SO 11948 ')< '.)() QUEEN CHARLOTTE SOUND. [Chiip. VII. Niclioll.s island lies just inside tiio wo^it entnince on tho south sido of I he chiuuiol. A rock awash at hnv water lies 1} cables westward oi' tho west point of NichoUs island. DRURY INLET.— Bet\ve(Mi Pandora lu.'ad and the shore to the southward is the entrance to Drury inlet, which is hen^ only one cable wide, with a depth of L") fathoms in it ; just outside (eastward) the entrance is Morris islanil, which should bo passed on the north side, and the northern shore should be closed to avoid a reef (marked bj' kelp in tho season) lying on the south shore, half- way between M(UTis island and the narrowest part of the entrance. Over the greater part of Drury inlet the depth is less than 25 fathoms, and it is nowhere so deep as most of these inland channels ; in width it varies from one cable to one mile, the latter being its width throughout the greater part of llu^ inlet; but at one place, Stuart narrows, l| miles within the entrance, two islets (each connected to the shore by reefs) leave a passage of only I }, cables between them, and this is further ol)structed by a dangerous rock, which uncovers ."> feet at low water, lying directly in the fairway betwet-n the two islets. Through these narrows the tidal streams during springs attain a v "locily of f) knots an hour. Passing up Drury inlet, the shores of which have an average height of less than 1,000 feet, at one mile froni Stuart narrows, Leche island is seen lying in mid-channel, and may be i)assed on either sitie ; here the inlet opens out to the southward, t'oruiing Richmond bay, in which are several islets. At a little over one mile westward of Leche island is Ligar island, 150 feet high, having at one cable east of its south point a dangerous sunken rock, uncovering 5 feet at low- water springs. Voak rock, another dangerous rock, awash at low-water spring tides, lies W cables N.N.W. i W. from Ligar island, with deep water between. Sir Everard islands, on the south shore, 1 J. miles westward of Ligar island, form a chain extending in a N.W. direction, with rocks between them, a clear channel lying between them and Hooper island to the northward. Blount rock, 8 feet above high water, lies closer to the south shoie half a mile to the westward of Sir Kverard islands. Sir chart. No. r>H|. A>;, Chap. VII.] DRURY INLBT.— fiRAPPLRR SOITXD. 291 JenniS bay, on the north sliore, abreast the Sir Kverard iwlaiids, wouM afford aiichoraj^'e for a small vessel ; when onteriii',', pass east- ward of Hooper island lying at the entrance, and aiidior in the centre of the bay in 7 to 10 fathoms. Centre rock, a dangerous sunki-n njcic, uncovtiring (S feet at low- watt r springs, lies in the niiddhi of Dniry iniet 1 ,',, miles West of the northern of the Sir Kverard islands ; it is stet![)-to around, and vessels will clear it l)y keeping at 2 cables from either shore. Muirhead islands. — At 2\ miles westward of ('entre rock, the inlet l)ecomes studded with small islands, having deep channels betv,',;"' them, and extending ovc-r a distance of 2 miles. The easternmost of these is Wilson island, 120 feet higii ; Keitli island, also I'iO feet high, lii'S :2 cables westward of it, and the Muirhead islands, three in number, extending one mile iu an east and west direction, are situated one cal)ie westward of the latter. The west Muirhead island is the largest and 2^)5 fet^t high. Between this grouj) and tlie south shore the space is occu[tied I)y nunu'ruus small islands, but tln^e is a clear channel along tlu' nortii side of the group ; westward of these, however, the water slnjals rapidly, there being only 2 to ;5 fathoms in Sutherlantl bay at the head of Drury iidet. A densely woodt'd valley extends across the peninsula in a south-west direction to the outer c(nist of Queen Charlotte sound. Actseon sound, which branehrs off from the uoitii side of Drury inlet abreast the west Muirhea'l island, is so blocked at its entrance by islets and rocks as to render it only available to l)oats. GRAPPLER SOUND.— West <.f l^atrick passage between Kinnaird island and Pandora head, is the entrance to another inlet which continues in a northerly direction for four miles, and is known a^ Grappler sound. From it several smaller bights l)rancli oit un botu sides, tliose on the east commmiicating w jlli liopetown and Kenneth passages, north and south of Watson island. The depths in the s<»und range from 20 to iiO fathoms, Init are shoaler in Claydon and Carriden bays on the west shore. At the entrance to the former a reef Mes nearly in mid-channel, aud a reef also e.vtenrls i), cables from Linlithgow point, on tjie north shore of the entrance to the latter. .Sf'e chart, No. 5.>l. SO 11048 Ti 292 QUEEN CHARLOTTE SOUND. [Chap. VII. Bucking-ham, Haramersley, and Hanbury islands Uo on tlu' iioiili sidf of Kinnainl island lit the entrance to Hopetown passage, the iirst being the hirgest and l$()() feet high. Dunsany passage, heading from Grappler sound to the entrance to IIopetowM passage and south-eastward into Suth-j channel, east of Kinnaird island, is apparently clear of dangers, with the exception of a reef, which covers at high water springs, lying off the north shore at the entrance to Hopetown passage. Hopetown passagre can only be used by boats, which can pass the barrier of rocks (that extend right across the i)a9sage at li| miles from the entrance) at high water, and can thence proceed into Mackenzie soiind. Kennethi passag-e, leading from the head of Grappler sound round the nortli side of >Vatson island, is 15^ miles long, and com- municates with Mackenzie sound at its junction with Hopetown l)assage. About one mile from its entrance (which is only a little over one cable broad) from Grapp.jr sound it widens considerably, ? bight, named Turnbull cove, extending one mile in a W.N.W, direction ; but half a mile further eastward the passage contracts to ?) cables between Alexander and Tessie ])oints, and thence several islands, islets and rocks obstruct the passage, rendering its naviga- tion dangerous. Mackenzie sound, from the east point of Watson island, extends \\ miles K.N.M, gnidiially narrowing towards its head at the foot of nionnt Stephens {."),t)(i5 feet high), where it becomes a mere chasm, and shoaling in the same direction from 25 to lU fathoms. BOYLES POINT, the western entrance point of Wells pass and the southern point of the peninsula formed by Drury inlet, has three small islets lying close off it, thj outer of which is only 4 feet above high water. Over and on each side of the point are undulating hills of about .")00 feet high, rising gradually inland to mount Wynyard (about 1,200 feet high). lV)yles point is situated iu latitude ."iO' 48' oO' N., longitude 127= r 40" W. Lewis rocks, a small cluster, 4 feet to JiO feet above high water, lie one mile W.S.W. from liuyles point, with rijcks awash and foul ground extending 7 cables southward from them. S; chart, No. 581. Chap. VII.] GRAPPLER SOUND.— BLUXDEX HARBOUR. 293 Numas islands, the largest of which is U, inih's long oast and west, lie 4 miles S.S.W. from I^oyles point ; the largest is IM feet high, and off its western extreme is Staples islet, 24- feet high. These form an excellent landmark. liabouchere cliannel, between Numas islands and the Lewis rocks, is over 2 miles wide. The tidal streams run at the rate of from one to '^ knots through this cliannel. Rayner group consists of four or five small islands, 120 to 150 feet high, lying close to the shore eastward of Blunden harbour. The southern edge of the group is fringed with sunken rocks, and they should not be approached in that direction nearer than half a mile. Masses of kelp surround these islands in the season, and skirt the shore towards Blunden harbour. Gillot rock, 2 feet above high water, is tlie easternmost of the dangers lying to the southward of the Rayner group. Black rock, 7 feet above high-water springs, is the westernmost of the dangers in the vicinity of Rayner group. BLUNDEN HARBOUR, on the north shore of Queen Charlotte sound, 12 miles westward of Wells pass, is formed between several iolands. The entrance between Shelf point, the east (extreme of Rol)inson island (120 feet high), and Barren rock, a small rock 12 feet high, i.^ 2.\ cables wide ; but a reef (marked by kelp) extends lil cables South from th^ latter, and another reef extends the same distance E.N.E. from Burgess island (100 feet high), a small island lying close to the shore )H cables S.S.W. from Shelf l)()in^ thus rendering the channel somewhat tortuous.* Anchorag'e may be obtained in 4 fathoms, mud bottom, in the western part of the harbour, at 2 cables S.W. of the southern of the two Bonwick islands, which are joined to the shore and to each other at low water. Directions. — When entering Blunden harl)our, which is only available for vessels of moderate size, bring Shelf point to ))ear N.W. i| N., when it will be just open of Charles point (on the east sliore), and steer in on these marks and keep in mid-channel. Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in Blunden harboiir at noon ; springs rise 10 feet, neaps rise 11. ^j feet. * iSor plan of Bliuulen harbour on Admiralty chart, No. 57' ; scale, w( = (i iuchc". 294 QUEEN CHARLOTTE SOUND. [Chap. VTI. Browning" islands, 2\ miles W.S.W. from the entrance to Blunden harbour, are a small group, the largest being 2| cables long and about 200 feet high. A dangerous rock, which dries 3 feet at low-water springs, lies 3 cables E.S.E. from the east extreme of the largest of the Browning islands ; therefore, give those iciiands a oerth of one mile when passing. Stuart point, 1^ miles W. by N. from the Drowning islands, has some rocky islets off it ; and 3 cables E. h S. from Stuart point, in the centre of a bay between the point and Browning islands, is a patch of 2 fathoms. Leading hill, 570 feet high, is situated close over the coast 1^ miles W. by N. ^ N. from Stuart point. Robertson and Jeanette islands, the latter 100 f(!et high, lie close off the shore under Leading hill. Round island, a little over half a cable in extent, the tops of the trees being 100 " - it altove the water, lies G cables S. by W. from Jeanette island. Millar group consists of a chain of small islands extending over 2 miles W. by N. )j N. and E. by S. ^ S. at 4 cables southward of Round island, between which and the group vessels should not pass. The tops of the trees on the highest island of the group are from 150 to 200 feet above the sea. At 3 cable.s W. by N. h N. from the western island of the grouj) is David rock with 12 feet water on it. Mary rook, a dangerous rock lying vS cables S.E. by E. | E. from the south end of the Millar group, is, however, generally visible, it being awash at high water. When passing through North channel from the soutli -eastward, ai)i)roach it with Round island bearing W. by N., and do not bring the island to bear northward of that bearing until the east end of the Millar group bears W.S.W., when alter course for mid-channel between Round island and Jeanette island. The Deserters islands are a group of islands, islets and rocks, the largest of which is nearly 2 miles in length, lying 1| miles south- ward of the Millar group. The Walker group {see i)age 308) is situated westward of the Deserters, separated from them by Shelter pass. iSee charts, Nos. 581, 582. Ohai). VII.J BROWNING ISLANDS.— noIlTll CHANNEL. 295 RIPPLE PASSAGE, between the Millar group and the Deserters islands, has several dangerous rocks in it, and should there- fore not be used except in an emergency, and then (»nly at low water (when nearly all the dangers show) and with the greatest caution.* Sun rock, the most dangerous of these rocks, owing to its locality and only being apparent during bad weather, when the sea breaks on it, lies 8 cables S.W. ^ W. from the westernmost islet of the Millar group. Twin rocks, 10 feet above high water, are two small rocks lying f) cables north-east of McLeod island. Heavy overfalls are met with northward and westward of the Twins. Richard islet, 25 feet above high water, and bare, lies 7 cables N.E. from the Twins ; it should not be approached within one cable. Barry islet lies one mile S.E. by E. ^ E. from Richard islet ; it is bare, and 45 feet above high water. Echo islets, a small group lying 8 cables South of Barry islet, extend over half a mile N.W. and S.E. At 3 cables off their north- west end is George reef ; it lies three-quarters of a mile S.W. from Barry islet. NORTH CHANNEL into Queen Charlotte sound extends close along the shore of the mainland from Bremner island off Buccleuch point to between Jeanette island and the Millar grouj) (above described), passing between White and Mayor islands on the north, and North rock on the south {see page 309), and at half a mile south- ward of Rogers, Dickenson, and Harris islets ; thence past Bold blull', and midway between Wentworth rock and Wallace islands. To clear North rock, passing northward of it, keep Harris islet just open south of the south extreme of Jeanette island bearing E. by S. i S. Shelter bay trends easterly for nearly 2 miles, forming two bights at its head. The entrance between the Wallace islands and the shore to the northward is 4 cables wide, but the bay is encum- bered with rocks in its most sheltered i)art, and could only b«! made use of as an anchorage by those possessing local knowledge. In a small bay north of Wallace islands there is good landing for boats, and there is also good landing for boats in south-easterly winds, in a bight 15 cables west of the point forming the north-west entrance to Shelter bay. • See Admiralty chart : — Goletas channel to Quatsino sound, No. 582 ; scale, w = 0-6 of ftji inch. 296 QUEEN CHARLOTTE SOUND. [Chap. VII. Annie rocks, IP feet above high water, are bare rocks, lying 3 cables off the coast 1\ miles West of the eutrauce to Shelter bay. WentWOrth rook, 10 feet above high water, lies l^ miles S.W. I W. from the Wallace islands ; it should be given a berth of half a milo in all directions. Southgrate group lies close off the coast .3 miles westward of Shelter bay. Bold bluff, the south-oast island of the group, has rocky l^atches off its east end. The shore of the mainland abreast Bold bluff falls back to the N.N.W. for a distance of G miles, the southern part being skirted by several small off-lying islets and rocks, ex- tending ;') miles westward of chis group, the positions of which are best seen by the chart. Murray labyrintll is the name given to the many channels which lie between a grou}) of several islands, islets, and rocks lying off the south coast of Branham island, 2 miles N.N.W. from the Southgate group, Branham Island, 3^ miles long (east and west) and 2.^ miles broad, lies off the coast of the mainland, and together with the Fox islands forms the southern shore of Slingsby channel. Nina hill, on the south side of the island, is r)00 feet high. Skull cove, indenting the island to the eastward of Nina hill, affords good shelter for boats. Schooner passage, between the east shore of Branham island and the mainland, is - narrow pass having an average width of one cable in a N.N.W. direction for a distance of 2| miles : it is, however, at <me place obstructed by a rock lying in mid-channel, which leaves a passage only 80 yards wide between it and the shore of Branham island. Schooner i)assage communicates with Slingsby channel, at one mile southward of the Nak wak to rapids. The tidal streams in Schooner passage run at the rate of from 2 to 5 knots. Mayor Island, a small wooded island, l.\ cables in extent, and 90 feet high, lies If^ miles W.N.W. from the Emily group. A rock awash at low water lies 2 cables East from it. Scr chart, No. 582. Chap. VII,] NORTH CHANNEL.— SLINGSBY CHANNEL. 207 White island, small, bare, and 48 feet high, lies 1.V miles W. by N. ^ N. from Mayor island. Morphy rock, which covers at three-quarters flood, lies G cables N.E. by E. h E. from White island, and 3^ cables S, by W. \ W. from McEwan point, the south-west extreme of Branham island. Fox islands, the western of which, 37') feet high, is H miles long (north-east and south-west), and the eastern half a mile long, lie off the western end of IJranham island, and form the south shore of the outer part of Slingsby channel. SLINGSBY CHANNEL, on the northern shore of Queen Charlotte sound, 7 miles south-eastward of cape Caution, leading to Seymour and Belize inlets, is .5 miles in length N.E. by E. h E., with an average breadth of 3 cables, between Outer narrows and Nak wak to rapids. It is high water, full and change, in Slingsby channel at 2h. 20m. ; springs rise 11 feet, neaps range 5 feet. Outer narrows. — At three-quarters of a mile within the entrance (between Dalkeith and Lascelles points) the channel contracts to only one cable in width, with no bottom at 40 fathoms. With the wind blowing in, i.e., between West and South, the sea breaks across the entrance, and in the narrowest part, even during calms, the water is much agitated. Tidal streams. — In these narrows the flood stream runs 2h hours after high water by the shore ; at springs the velocity is from o to 9 knots, at neaps from 4 to tl knots, the change of stream occurring after only about 15 minutes slack water. The ebb stream runs 2^ hours after low water by the shore, attaining, at springs, a velocity of 10 knots, and at neaps from 5 to 7 knc .s. Nak wak to rapids (Kah tsis ilia), at the eastern end of Slingsby channel (communicating with Seymour inlet), are 2 cables wide, but in the centre of the rapids is Turret island, SO feet high, against which the tide rushes with great fury. The channel westward of Turret islet has a rock in it with only 2 fathoms water on it ; that to the eastvard has depths of from 6 to 11 fathoms. The flood stream commences 2^ hours after low water by the shore in Slingsby channel (see above), and runs (with a velocity at springs See chart, No. 582. 298 QUEEN CHARLOTTE SOUND. [Chap. VII. of 12 to If) knots) from 2 to 2] hours after high water, or until it is high water at Seymour inlet ; after an interval of 10 minutes alack water the ebb commences anil runs until 2 to 3 hours after low water in Slingsby channel, attended by very heavy and dangerous overfalls, and attaining a velocity at springs of 20 knots. Directions. — Steam-vessels may enter Slingsby channel from the westward thronf,'h the Outer narrows in fine weather, at or near slack water, and proceed to Trradwell bay, 4 miles within the entrance on the north shore, where anchorage will be found in from 9 to 15 fathoms, avoiding the shoal of 2^ fathoms situated southwards of the centre of the bay. If it be necessary to proceed through Nak wak to rapids, the turn of the stream should be most carefully Avatched, so that the vessel may with certainty make the passage during the only 10 minutes of slack water, for at no other time would it be possible to do so with any degree of safety. These narrows, however, should only be used by a vessel on emergency and after acquiring some practical knowledge, by passing th: vugh at slack water in a boat. It is also imperative that the tides should be previously watched from Treadwell bay. Small canoes pass from Slingsby channel into Seymour inlet at half tide through a very narrow passage on the north shore inside the small island forming the north point of the narrows. Treadwell bay, on the north shore of Slingsby channel, is formed by the channel widening to 8| cables and forming a bight in which lie the Anchor islands (a group consisting of several islands), leaving a sheltered space 2^ cables in extent between the north coast of the largest island and the shore. The largest Anchor island is half a mile long east and west, and 220 feet high. The depth of water in the bay varies from 7 to 12 fathoms, but near the centre, rather over to the south side, there is a shoal spot with from 4 to 2.\-fathoms on it. The bay affords shelter free fron; tidal streams. Large ships should moor. Entering Treadwell bay, give the south-eastern Anchor islands (Current point) a berth of Vj cables, and having rounded them, keep the shore of the mainland aboard. Soo chart, No. 682. Chap. VIT.] SLINOSBY CHANNEL.— SEYMOUn INLET. 29y Anchor as convenient in 10 to 12 Cuthomrt northward of the 2i fathoms patch, before mentioned. It is high water, full and change, in Treadwell bay at Oh. 30m. ; springs rise 11 feet, nea\m 5 feet. Caution rock, which u.icovera (C) feet) at low-water springs, is a dangerous rock lying in che fairway south-eastward of the Anchor islands, and 1^ cables from the south shore of Slingsby channel. To avoid it, keep the south shore aboard at less than one cable distant. NUGENT SOUND.— From Nak wak to nipids a branch half a mile wide trends E.H.E. about one mile ; here it divides into two, one branch continuing E.S.E., and the other (Nugent sound) E.N.E. for 11 miles. Nugent sound in some places is only 2 cables across, but it has deep water throughout, and is navigable, though there is no anchorage in it.* SEYMOUR INLET.— The other branch, from Margaret point at the entrance to Nugent sound, trends E.S.E. for G miles, with dee}) Water in mid-channel. On the north shore is Charlotte bay, and on the south Ellis bay, both, however, unavailable as an anchorage. At the above distance, on the north shore, is the entrance to Seymour inlet, several islets lying just within it. A narrow pass of shallower water with depths of 1 and 10 fathoms continues for 3 miles E.S.E. Wa wattle bay lies between the entrances to tliese two arms, and extends one mile E.N.E. with depths of from 23 to 18 fathoms. Seymour inlet, from its entrance to the head of Salmon arm, is 25 miles long, varying from three-quarters to 1^ miles in width, and maintains a depth of over 40 fathoms throughout to within 2 or 3 cables of the shore at its head. There are several indentations on both shores, the largest being Maunsell bay on the north shore ; none, however, afford an anchorage. At 3 miles eastward of Maunsell bay are Eclipse narrows, where the tidal streams run with great strength, and no bottom could be obtained at 12 fathoms ; these narrows lead to Salmon arm and Frederick sound, the latter extending 5 miles S.E., the former 3 miles N.E. *Sc'c Admiralty charts : — Johnstone and Broughton straits, No. 581 ; scale, m — 0-5 of an inch ; also Vancouver island, No. 1,917 ; scale, m = 0'15 of an inch. 300 QUEEN CHARLOTTE SOUND. [Chap. VII, Suhnon arm tt'rmiiiates at the fuui, of Perpendicula'* mountain, r),(IO() foot hif^li. Ta altz, an Indian winter villaj^e, is Hituated on the Hliorc at itH head. The cont'nuation of Seymour inlet northward of Eclipse narrows terminatoH at (5 miles, a river tlowinj,' into it at its head, on which is situated a winter village of the Wa watl Indians. BELIZE INLET.— From Nak wak to rapids, another branch, 3 cables wide, takes a westerly direction for 3 miles to Mij,'non point, where it suddenly turns E.N.P]. for 24 miles, with an average width of h{df a mile, and with deep water throughout ; it lies between high ranges, 3,000 to 4,000 feet high. From the head of Belize inlet to Maunstill bay, on the northern side of Seymour inlet, there is, according to Indian reports, a portage about 2h miles long.* Lassiter bay, at the head of the continuation of the inlet, between Harvell and Mignon points in a westerly direction, forms * two small bights, with some few islets and rocks in it, but the water is inconveniently deep for anchorage. Mereworth sound. — At 5 miles eastward of Mignon point, on the north shore, is the entrance to Mereworth sound, another similar inlet branching off to the northward, in which direction it continues for 4 miles, and then suddenly turning to the eastward for G miles, maintaining deep water throughout. Flat rock. Square and Round islands, lie on the west shore at the entrance to Mereworth sound, with deep water around. Strachan bay, at H miles from the entrance to Mereworth sound, on the western shore, is the entrance to a small Inlet which takes a westerly direction for H miles, and has depths of 40 to IG fathoms. Village bay, on the opposite shore, abreast Strachan bay, is a small bay with two islets off its north point, and depths of 19 to 22 fathoms in it. Westerman bay is a small bight 1^ miles long in a northerly direction, with from 30 to 20 fathoms water over it, except at its head, wliere it suddenly shoals to 3i fathoms at 4 cables from the shore. The entrance to Westerman bay is 2 miles westward of the entrance to Mereworth sound. Alison sound. — At about 10 miles eastward from the entrance to Mereworth sound, on the north shore of Belize inlet, is the entrance to Alison sound, another narrow branch which, like * See Admiralty chart : — Vancouver island, No. 1,917. Chap. VII.] DELIZK INLET.— (iOLETAS CHANNEL. 301 Mcroworth sound, firnt takes a northerly direction (for ',\ miles) and then smldenly turns eastward fur ;} n\iles, linally turning »<:n\n to the northwanl for a further distance of 2 miles, to lis head. At about 2 miU^s from the entrance Alison sound is only about I'*')!) yards wide ; here, in the middle of the passa^je, is a small islet (Obstruction ish't) having' a i)assa),'e on either side nf it I.Vt yards wide, with a depth of 10 fathoms in it. BKEMNER ISLET, ')8 feet high and covered with grass, lies 1^ miles W. ^ N. from Lascelles point, and half a mile distant from the shore. QOLETAS CHANNEL, which runs along the north shore of Vancouver island, is 22 miles long east and west, with a breadth varying from one to 2| miles. Its shores are high, rugged, and ste<3p-to, except in the western part, and may be generally approached to abfuit a quarter of a mile ; the northern side is composed of a group of islands (tlie principal of which are Galiano and Hope islands), mostly small, through which are several navigable passages.* There are four anchorages in the channel, viz., Shushartie bay on the south side ; port Alexander, Shadwell passage, and Bull harbour on the north side ; and all, with the exception of the latter, are easily accessible to sailing-vessels. Duval point, on the south side at the eastern entrance of the channel, is 1.5 miles West of Broughton strait, or in lat. 50" 4G' 10" N., long. 127° :50' 0" W. Navigable depths.— The depths throughout the channel to the west entrance are deep, varying from 190 to 80 fathoms, but there the bottom suddenly rises from 40 to 7 and 9, and in one part to less than 3 fathoms, forming Nahwhitti bar, stretching completely across the channel, and in a great measure preventing any heavy sea rising inside it during westerly gales. Tides and tidal streams.— It is high water, full and change, in the Goletas channel at Oh. 30m., and the rise and fall varies from 12 to 14 feet. The tidal streams in the east part <■ ' r't channel run from one to 3 knots, but near the west entrance, in the vicinity of * Ste Admiralty chart of West eud of Vancouver island (Goletes channel to Q^atsino sound), No. 5S2 ; scale, m — 0-5 of an inch : also Admiralty plan of Goletas channel, No. 555 ; scale, m = 2 inches. 302 gUEEN CHAULOTTE SOUND. [C'hup. VII. the Niihwhitti l)ar, they are much stronger (2 to 5 knotw), turning Hhortly uft((r high and low water l)y the nhort'. SHUSHARTIE BAY.— From Duval point tiitt noutli uliorc of (iok'tas cliaiint'l trends westward If) nilk'H to Sliurtluirtio bay. This bay is aljoiii half a mile in extent, and its shores are high, except at the head, from which a sandl)ank extends mort^ tlian 2 cables. There is a very limited but fairly sheltered anchorage just inside the north-oast jxiint of the bay, in about liJ fathoms, at one cable oil" shore, but from tin* steepness of the bank it should only be considenul as a stopping place.* Dillon rook, which covers at a quarter flood lies 1^ cables West from Ilalstead island, which lies close off the east point of the bay, and is in the way of vessels entering from the eastward. Directions. — If entering Shushartie bay from the eastward, and Dillon rock be covered, do not steer in for the anchorage till the easternmost peak of the Shushartie saddle (a remarkal)le double- to])})eil mountain 1,1)00 feet high situated south of the bay) is seen in the centre of the bay bearing S. ;[ E., when proceed in with tliat mark on, which leads westward of ]3illon rock ; wiien the north- east i)oint of bay l)ears 1']. by N. h N., the vessel will be clear south of it, and should steer for the eastern shore. Entering from the westward keej) the western shore aboard till Ilalstead island bears E. by N. h N., when steer in as before directed. Anchor immediately 14 fathoms are obtained, as the bank is steep which will be at about one cable off it, with the extremes of the bay bearing N.E. and N.W. by W. Shingrle point, 2 miles west of Shushartie bay, is low ; a beach runs otl' it a short distance ; westward of this point it is difficult to land, except in fair weather. CAPE OOMMERELL, 22 miles West of Duval point, Is the northernmost point of Vancouver island, and the south point of the west entrance to Goletas channel. The cape is low, and some rocks extend off it for nearly 2 cables ; eastwanl of it the coast forms a large bay 3 miles wide and about one mile deep, with from 25 to (! fathoms rocky bottom, and not in any way adapted for anchoring. The shoal part of Nahwhitti bar, on which there is as lit.le as * iScf Admiraltv plan of Shiishaitie baj, No. 2,067 ; scale, m = 3 inches. Clmp. VII.] (lOLKTAS OHANNKl..— CHHI.STIK PASSAdK. 'MK) 2\ fiitlioius, oxtiMnlri iiortli-WfrttWiinl from tlii' uurit point of this liiij' ; it irt m;irko(l by kolp iin»l luunod Tjilirill reufs. Wt'Hor irtl«'t H foot lii^li li»-S in tho woHtoni part of tlio buy, ilistant a (iiiartcr of a iiiilo from tho Hhoro. Thero is lui Iiiiliao village on tlxo oant side of tlio capo. Cape Coiunioroll is situatud in latitudo ')()^ .')2' 15')' N., longitiido 12H° 3' 0" W. GORDON GROUP oonsists of a number of small islands i^xtondiiig in an east and wost direction for ft milos, ami i)or(loring the north part of the oast entrance of Golotas ehannol. Tlioy are high and stocp-to, and on the eastern or Doyle island is .Miles con»', a remarkal)le hill i'xSO foot high. Their eastern extreme is '2 miles North of Duval point. Duncan island, one mile South of the (jordon grouj), is about one mile in circumference, and IJOO feet high. Noble islets, iU) foot high, lie 1), miles West from Duncan islanil, lu^tween wliieh and t\w group it is not advisable for a largo vessel to go. lUyth islet, 20 feet higli, lies 7 cables eastward of Noble islets ; and Mouatt rock with 7 feet over it lies '21 cables N.N.W. of Hlyth islet, Balaklava island, '21 miles lon-r north-west and south-east, and from iialf a mile (o one mile wide, and with three peaks, lies betweers the (icmlon group and (laliano island, fomiing (Miristie anil Hrowning |)assages. A small rock 4 feet high, suri-ounded l)y kelp, lies one cal>le 8outh of the south-eastern Lucan islamls. Raglan point, the north-west point of Balaklava island, has a bnlge extending 2\ cables from it ; and half a mile N.W. from the point are the Cardigan rocks, t» feet high, with ('roker rock J.J cables N.E. from them. These rocks are surrounded by kol]). Christie passage, between the west side of the Gordon group and Halaklava island, is half a mile wide ; some shoal patches with from one to 15 +'athoms on them lie Ijj cables from the east shore of Halaklava island, and (I to 7 cables S.K. by 8. from Scarlett point ; between them and the island is George island. The tidal streams run from one to 3 knots through it, the Hood to the southward. If intending to go through this j)assage from Goletas channel, a large vessel should enter it westwar*.! of the N<ible islets. ike chart, No. 55.5. :m QUEEN CHARLOTTE SOUND. [Cliap. VII. Brownini? passage, West of Balaklava island, botween it and Oaliuno island, runs in a north-westerly direction. Its length is about ;} miles, its breadth in the irarrowest j)art 2 cables, and a rock, which covers at three-<juarterfi flood, lies on the west side of the channel about threo-<iHarters of a cable from Galiano island. A reef and foul ground marked by kelp extends l.\ cables from Balaklava island, just opposite the above-mentioned rock, and this is the narrowest part of the channel, which is deep. The tidal streams are weak in this channel. GALIANO ISLAND, the hirgest of the islands on the north side of Goletas channel, is nearly 8 miles long, and .'U miles broad. Mount Lemon, a remarkable })eak of conical shape 1,!2()0 feet high, rises near its south-west part, and Magin saddle consisting of two peaks, 700 and 800 feet high, is situated at less than one mile from the west extreme of the island. The south side of Gnliano island is high, steep-to, and cliffy ; at 4^ miles West from Boxer point is a small cove which Avould afford shelter to email craft froju westerly winds. Port Alexander, on the west side of Browning channel, in Galiano island, trends N.W. for li miles, with a general breadth of about 4 cables ; there is a small islet in the middle of it, half a mile from the entrance, and another close off Boxer point on the west side of the entrance. This port is easy of access to steamers and sailing-vessels with a fair wind, and affords good anchorage in 12 to 13 fathoms, at half a mile from its head, well sheltered from all except south-easterly winds. SHADWELL PASSAGE, between Galiano and Hope islands, is 3^ miles long in a northerly direction, and its breadth varies fr-om a half to 1^ miles ; foul ground extends nearly half a mile from the shore between Turn point and cape .Tames. Shadwell passage may be used by steamers, or sailing-ve&sels with a fair wind ; it would hardly be j)rudent to beat a large vessel through it, as there is generally a heavy swell and strong tide in the north }»art. It is the passage usually taken bv small vi'ssels when bound north from the inner waters. .SVv Bate passage, piige liOa. St chart. No. 566. Chap. Vtl.] GOLETAS CHANNBL.—BATE PASSAGE. 305 ? n A vessel may anchor about 2 or 3 cables north-west of Centra island, sheltereil from all except northerly wimls. The tidal streams set from 2 to 4^ knots. Vansittart island is one mile lonLr, and thr(>e-qnarters of a mile wide, anil 2G0 feet high ; west of it are some rocks and small islets extending (I cables off it ; and half a mile from the north point are two wooded islets 70 feet high named Nicolas islands. Willes island, 20S feet high, is at the south-east part of the pawsage clos«! to GuliiUio island ; a quarter of a milt; S.E. of it is a small low islet, named Slave islaml. Centre island, in the middle of the passage, and .5 cal)les S.W. from Vansittart island, is small ; but there is a passage on either side of it ; thai to the westward, however. Is much obstructed by Suwanee rock, which dries 4 feet at low-water spring tides, and lies one cable \V."by S. -J S. from the high-water mark of Centre island, rendering the passage west of that island unsafe. One Tree islet, 4 cables West of Vansittart, is small, about 40 feet high, and has a single tree on its summit, which is very conspicuous when seen from the northward, and of great use in identifying the l^assage; but between it and Vansittart island are rocks and foul ground. Breaker reef, the outer of the dangers extending N.W. from Vansittart island, lies half a mile N. by W. ^ W. from One Tree islet. Turn point lies 2 miles N.f]. of Heath point about midway between it and cape James ; it is backed by a hill lUK) feet high. Cape James, the north west extreme of Shadwell passage, 2 miles N.N.W. from Turn point, is a rocky bluff '.tO feet high ; some rocks extend off it to the southward for a short distance. The capo should at all times be given a berth of at least half a mile. Tidal streams. —The tlooil stream runs to the southward tlirough Shadwell passage at the rati' of about 4i knots, whiNt the ebb, in the northern part, sets 2 knots in the contrary direction ; southward of Centre island, however, it runsasenong as the flood. Tide rips exist between Centre and Vansittart islands. Bate passagre, eastward of Vansittart island, is deeper, and perha])8 for a sailing-ship or stranger it would be easier to navigate See chart, No. 555. SO 11948 306 QUEEN CHARLOTTK SOUND. [Chap. VTT. ! ; than Shadwell passage ; if proceeding through it, keep in miil- channal. Commanders of vessels that do not steer well iire recom- mended to use Rate paaiage instead of Shad well passage. Hope island, the we. ^mmoat of the group which forms the north side of Goletas chaimel, is (5 miles long, east and west, and its greatest breadth is 3| miles ; the sea breaks heavily along its north and west sides, and off Mexicana point (the western extreme) a reef extends 3 cables. BULL HARBOUR is on the south side of Hope island, 2 mih-s from the western entrance of Goletas channel. Though small, iliis harbour affords a very secure landlocked anchorage. It runs northerly for l.\ miles.* Indian island, 1^ cablet' North of the narrowest part of the entrance, is small, but completely shuts in the harbdur, leaving a passage to it on the eastern side one cable wide ; between the island and ilie west shore there is only a deptli of II feet. To enter Bull harbour, stt-er nj) in mid-chaimel, jniss East of Indian island, and moor immediately the vessel is imrthward of it, anchors north and south. Only steamers or small sailing-vessels shouUl use this anchorage. There is only room for one or two vessels of moderate size to lie moored. Tides. — 't is high water, at full and change, in Dull harbour at Oh. ;JOm. ; springs rise Vih feet. NAHWHITTI BAR, or ledge, stretching across the west entrance of the Goletas channel, is of sandstone formation, and on the eastern edge rises suddenly from 40 to 9 fathoms, the depth increasing very gradually to the westward. Its breadth within the lO-fathoms line is from one to nearly .'{ miles, it being broadest at the .south part, where are several sijoal spots. On tiio western i'ih^i' of the bar the tidal streams run from 2 toy knots. In heuvy westerly gsiles the sea breaks across the Goletas ciiainicl at this bar. Tatnall reefs, with 2^^ and .'U fathoms on tliem, li»' en *he b;ir I] miles from thi* south shoi-e : ntirthward of thege jratehes the depths vary from (! lo '.) fathoms Directions. — IJonnd westward through Goletas channel, steer in mid-ehannel, or within half a mile of either shore, until west of Bull I 1 Sir plan of Bull harbour on Admtnilty chart, No. 2,007 ; Kcule, vi —■■ '\ iuches. Chap. VII.] OOLETAS CHANNEL.— NEW CHANNEL. 307 harbour, after which keep Roxor point open of Lemon i)oint bearinj? K, f X., until Mi'xifuna point boars N. by K.. when a vessel will be V eatward of the Naliwhitti bar. Tn a sailincr-ship beating tlirouf?h the channel, keep south of Duncan and Noble islands ; elsewhere, until west of Hull harbour, the shores on both sides may be ai)i)ro,u'heil to witliin atjuarter of a mile ; when standing' southward, wes. of Hull harbour, tack when Shinfj;le and Lemon points are in line bearintr K. by N., and do not ap])roach nearer than half a mile towards Mexicana point, as there is generally a heavy swell setting in on it, and the ground is uneven. When crossing the bar in the deepest water, if the weather be clear, mount liemon, a high conical peak, should appear nearly midway between Shingle point and Heath point on the opposite shore, or nothing to the southward of midway between them. If obliged t(t anchor for the night, or tide, Shushartie bay, though small, is easy of access, the only danger being Dillon rock of! its east point {srr |)age 'MYl). Port Alexandi-r and Shadwell passage, along the M(»rth short", arc also, with a fair wind, easy of acci'ss to sailing- vessels, and the latter is preferable, tx'ing more roomy with better hiiiding ground. NEW CHANNEL, northward of (Joletas chaiuiel, is alxuit V2}i miles long, anil has a breauth varying from U to 1 miles. (Jenerally, a heavy swell sets through New channel from the west- ward, and, with the exception that there is more room for a large vt'iiisel to work in or out than in Goletas channel, thiTe is no reason to use it in prefennce to the ' tier, unless, if running in before a hi^avy westerly gale, the sea w«n' breaUing acntss the west entrance of Goletas channel at the Nahwhiiti l»ar. 'I Crane Islets are 'M) fi-et high, and steep-to, there being i (H) fathoms one cable distant. They lie ii^ miles westward of Doyle island, and about ;i cables north of (lordon group. Hoyle island. 1 1 milts west from Crane islets, and half a mile North of llurs .-.land (^(iordon group), is small. Grey rock, which covers at a (juarter flood, lies half a niih' N.W. from Hoyle islait:', and is dangerous to vessels beating through this che-'nel. The best mark to clear this rock is to keep the Crane ish ts just touching the nt>rth side of Gordon group bearing K. by H. l S., which leads nearly half a mile North of it. .5iir ohartH, Nob. '>'»'>, 582. SO 1194.S U2 308 QUEEN CHARLOTTE SOUND. [Chap. VII. Walker group is composed of several small islets and rocks covering an extent of tJ miles in a westerly direction, and 2 miles broad ; the hif^hest and western (Kent island) is about '620 "feet above the sea. There are several small creeks and bights, which would afford shelter to boats, or even small craft ; along their south side some rocks extend a short distance off. White rock lies 2 miles W.S.W. from Castle point ; it is 4 feet above high water. Between White rock and Boyle island a strong ti'.le race usually prevails. Jiagged reef, a cluster of rocks 4 feet high and 4 cables in extent, lies (5 cables northward of the west end of Kent island. Nye rock, off the soutli end of Schooner passage, at the Avest part of the grouj), c(tvers at high water ; it lies 2] miles W. i N. from White rock : large vessi'ls should not stand inside it to the northward. Redfern island, the south-western of Walker group, is about half a mile long, and a quarter of a mile wide ; half a mile south-east of it are some rocks just above high water, as also to the north-west ; its south side should not be approached wiihin 2 cables. IVosser rock, 2 miles W. by N. ;| N. from Hedfern island, is small, about 2 feet above high water. Bright islet is 100 feet high ; half a mile N.E. by N. from it lies a reef which covers at high water, and one mile E. by N. i N. lies Herbert island, with a reef lying between. Pine island, at the north-west part of New channel, about one mile in circumference, bold, wooded, and al)out 2r)0 feet high, is conspicuous from th(^ westward. Tree islets, some small islets, which are also wooded, lie half a mile N.E. from Pine island. STORM ISLANDS, in the centre of Queen Charlotte sound, 2Jr miles northward of Pine island, are a narrow chain of islets extentling 2 miles east and west, and form a most useful land-mark when crossing Queen (^liarlofte sound. The tops of the tre«'S are about l.')0 to 200 feet above liigh water. An Indian fishing village is situated on one of the grouj), near the east end. Reid ishuul the ea.sternmost of the Storm islands, on the noi-th side of Sealed pa.ssage, is about ;5(H) yiirds long E.N.E. and W.S.W., and 150 yanls broad, having a rock abov^ water half a cable off its west end. Naiad islet See charts, Nos. 556, 582. Chap. VII,] WALKKR (JROUr.— CAPE SCOTt. 309 ire is h(' lil, is bare unci 4S feet high ; it lies half u mile N.E. i N. from Ut'iil island. Sunken rock, on which the sea breaks in bad weather, lies about 5 miles N.E. of Shadwell passjige ; from the centre of the rock, Hrij,'ht island bjars S.E. by E., distant Iv^ miles, and Pine island, West Ih miles. Se?.''Gd. passage, ") miles northward of Shadwell passage, between I'ine island and the lUorm islands, is about '21, miles wide. This passage should not be attempted. Blind reef, on which the sea breaks in heavy weather, e.vtends nearly across Sealed i)assage, and closes it to navigation ; close to the western edge of Blind reef there are 17 to 10 fathoms, rocky bottom. South rock, awash at low water, lies almut 1;{ miles north-eastward from Blind reef; from the centre of this rock, I'ine island bears S.W. by S., distant .'5] miles nearly. Middle rock, on which the sea nearlj' always breaks, is covered at three-cjuarters flood, anil lies one mile N. by W. from South rock. North rock, on which the sea nearly always breaks, is awash at high water, and lies three-quarters of a mile N.E. from Middle rock. The COAST from cape Commerell (page 1502), the north-west point of Vancouver island, takes a south-west direction for Iti miles to cape Scott. It is rather low, but rises at a distance inland to hills <S00 anil 1,000 feet high ; it is indented by several bays, which, however, are too open to afford any shelter, except from southerly winils ; foul ground extends off in some places more than one mile. Hecate rock, lying 1^ miles W. by S. from cape Commerell, and three-(juarters of a mile off' shore, covers at three quarters Hood, arul the sea breaks heavily over it. Lemon point ((Jaliano island) just open of or touching Shingle point (Vancouver island) bearing E. by N., leads three-quarters of a mile northward of it. CAPE SCOTT, the extreme north-west point of Vancouver island, is a small promontory about 500 feet high, connected to the island by a low sandy neck about one cable wide ; some rocks extend West from it f(ir more than half a mile. There is a bay on both sides of the neck, which would afford anchorage to boats or small craft in tine weather only ; close to its south-west extreme is a small creek among the rocks, diilicult of See uharta, No8. 555, 582. -If It 310 QUEEN CHAllLOTTE SOUND. [Char. VII. access, hut, once within it, boats may get shelter in southerly gales ; unless acquainted with the locality, it would, however, be hardly prudent to venture it in bad weather. Caution. — When navigating between cape Commerell and cape Scott, do not approach the shore within 1\ miles. Tidal Streams. — At cape Scott the flood stream comes from the southward, and rounding the cape sets into Goletas channel, its strength varying from one to 3 knots. Scott channel, between cape Scott and Cox island, is .oj miles wide. It is a safe navigable channel for any class of vestel, the only known dangers in it being the rocks extending nearly on" mile West from cape Scott. There are some heavy tide rips near itt-: east and west sides, but a largy vessel may beat through with safety, 'acking when upwards of one mile off cape Scott, or half a mile of Cox island. J Scott islands, live in number, with some adjacent smaller islets, extend nearly 20 miles West from cape Scott. There are wide passivges between the western islands, but as no souiulings have been obtained in them, and strong tide rips and overfalls have invariably been observed raging there, no vessel should venture among or through them, unless compelled to do so. Cox island, 1,047 feet high, the easternmost and largest of the group, is about 2i miles in extent, with iron-bound rocky shores and several off -lying dangers. Lanz islanil, separated from Cox island by a passage half a mile wide, is upwards of 2 miles long, and one mile broad ; its shores, like Cox island, are rocky, and it rises near the centre 1,177 feet above the sea ; both the islands are wooded. In tine weather with southerly winds a vessel may drop an anchor north- ward of Cox ishuul in 11 fathoms, but at all times it is a neighbour- hood to be avoided. East Haycock, a small islet 80 feet high, is 2^ miles S.W. from l*inz island ; it is covered with a few stunted trees. Some small islets extend a short distance N.W. of it. West Haycock, .') miles W. ] S. from East Haycock, is small and rocky, about 180 feet high. Some small islets extend upwards of one mile S.W. of it, foul ground existing around them for half a mile. Hec chart, No. 581. Chap. VII.] SCOTT CAPE AND ISLANDS. 511 Triangh' island, thf western inoHt of the f^roiip, 2r» miles \V. l)y S. from cape Scott, is HSO feet hiffh, about one mile in extent, and diflers from the other ishinds in beinjf very precipitous and bare of trees, and has a remarkable gap in its summit ; a ledge or reef extends one mile north-west of it. Caution.— When navigating near the Scott islands, it is recon;- mended to give them a goo«l oiling, especially in a sailing-vessel, as the tidal streams set very strongly through the passages between tliem. ;U2 CHAPTER VIII. WEST COAST OF VANCOUVER ISLAND, FROM JUAN DE FUG A STRAIT TO SYDNEY INLET. Variation, 23° East in 1898. GENERAL DESCRIPTION.— The outer or western coast of Vancouver island is eoniprised between Bonilla point, at the entrance of Juan de Fuca strait, and cape Scott, the north-west extreme of the island, a distance of upwards of 200 miles. Its general direction is W.N.W. and E.S.E., but the coast is broken into deep inlets, the principal of which, Barclay, Clayoquot, Nootka, Kyuquot, and Quatsino sounds.* The coast is mostly low and rocky, but rises immediately to mountains of considerable height. It is fringed l)y numerous rocks and hidden dangers, especially near the entrances of the sounds, and the exercise of great caution and vigilance will bo necessary on the part of the navigator to avoid them, even with the Admiralty charts. Caution. — On no occasion, therefore, except where otherwise stated in the following pages, should a stranger attempt to enter any of the harbours or anchorages during night or thick weather, but rather keep a good offing until circumhtances are favourable ; and when about to make the coast, it cannot be too strongly impressed on the mariner to take every opportunity of ascertaining his vessel's position by astronomical observations, as fogs and thick weather come on very suddenly at all times of the year, more especially in summer and autumn months ; and tiie current generally sets south-east, at rosstlie entrance to Juan de Fuca strait {see page 11). The use «)f the lead is strictly enjoined. Tides and tidal streams.— AH along the. outer or West coast of Vancouver island it may be said to be high vntc*- at full and change when the moon crosses the meridian, viz., at noon and ♦ See Admiralty chart of Vancouver ialand, Xo. 1,1)17 ; aciile, w = 0'15 of an inch. Chap. VIII.] CARMANAH LIGHT. 31:^ If in midnight, tho tide showing considorabio rogiikirity as compared with tho inner waters, tho greatost riso and fall being everywhere about 12 feet. There are two high and low waters in the 24 hours all the year round. In summer months the superior high water is at miilnight, and in winter months at noon. Tho Hood stream ai)pears to st't along the coa.st to the; north-west, anil the el)b to the south-east ; neither are of great strength, except in the vicinity of Juan de Fuca strait and the Scott islands. Telephonic communication has bi;en established between Victoria, Vancouver island, ami the following stations on the northern side of Juan de Fuca strait, Fort San Juan, at tho mouth of Gordon river ; Carmanah lighthouse ; and Cape Beale lighthouse. Messages will be transmitted from the stations at tixed tariif rates. The COAST from port San Juan (page 70) trends 10 miles in a wes'erly direction to l?onilla point, rising gradually to elmations from 1 ,000 to 2,000 feet. 15onilla i)oint, the north entrance point of Juan de Fuca strait, is 12 miles N.N.W. from cape Flattery ; the point slopes gradually to the sea, and a reef extends half a mile from it. This point should bo given a berth of not less than li miles. A consi)icuous house stands half a mile eastward of it.* Four miles westwaril of the entrance of Nitinat lake is a remarkable waterfall, callotl l)y the natives Tsusiat, which may be seen at a good distance, even in thick weather, when it would hell) to identify a vessel's position, l)eing the only watei-fall on this part of the coast. CARMANAH LIGHT is a <jr(,ni> jlnshhnj white light cvmj ininutc, showing tlireo JlasUex with intervals of JiJ'tecn seconds between their points of greatest brilliancy, followed by an interval ot thirti/ seconds, during the greater part of which the light is eclipsed. It is elevated 1715 feet above high water, and should be visible in clear weather from a distance of 1'.' miles. The lighthouse, !(> feet high, is a wooden structure, and Avith the dwelling attached, is painted white, lantern retl. Position.— Lat. 4.S°;{t;' ;{2' N., long. 124° 4!". lO w. Carmanah fog* signal is a horn, workeil by steam and eoin- presaed air, giving one blast of six seconds duration every half minute. * See Admiralty chart :— Sydney inlet to Nitinat, No. 684 ; scale, 7«=:0'5 of an inch. ni4 VANCOUVER ISLAND, WEST COAST. [Chup. Vlll. The I'oj,' sij,'ii;il statinii. coiistnu'tt'd of wood, iiiid jKiinttMl white, with iinpiiintctl sliiiii,'le hm)!', is sitiiiiti-tl Imiiicdiatfly in front of, iiinl ii llttU' Itt'low, tin- lif,'litliou8i'. It fiici'H S. ))y E. [, K. ; tlie horns (which are in iluplii-atc) urc 12;') feet ul)()ve hi^'h water. A Hi^ntil wtution in addition to the fog iiorn, for tiie piu'ijose of enabling paisHing steain-voHHels to coniniunieate during fogH, is ertla))liHiieil at C:irni mah lighthouse. This signal cojisists of a steam whistle, and passing vessels may communicate by whistle sounils, using tlie Morse or Continental telegraphic codes. The signal and rescue station at Carmanah lighthou.se, with which vessels may communicate by means of the International code of signals, is under the following rules and regulations : — Vessels exhibiting their ilistinctive numliers will have their names transmitteii to Victoria, for publication only, free of charge. DespatchcK to or from vessels within signalling distance, by flags of the Internatioual code, will be duly delivered as addressed, at turifl rates. Despatches will be charged for at the regular telephone rates, but no charge will be made for signalling between the flag station and vessels at sea. Despatches may be delivereil in cypher, by special request, otherwise they will be transmitted in ordinary language. A ilejjot of pi'ovisions and other necessaries for shipwrecked persons is maintained at the lighthouse. Nitinat lake, the entrance to which is narrow and shoal, is 7 miles westward of Konilla point. The lake is of considerable size, extending to the northward. There are one to 2 fathoms in the entrance, and the sea generally breaks heavily across it in bad weather. Pachena bay, 20 miles westwanl of Bonilla point, is nearly 2 miles deep in a northerly direction, and half a mile wide, with from .") to G fathoms water, but as it is open to the southward and south-vest, and there is usually a heavy swell setting into it, no vessel should anchor there. At its head, on the west side, is a stream where boats can get in and Hnd shelter in bad weather. Set ohart, No. 584. Ohiip, VIII.] BARCLAY SOUND. mr) Sea-bird islet, oil tlm emniiun- of thi- Imy, is butv, about 10 I't'ft iil»ovo WiittT, and of hiimII I'xteiU. Tlic two rooks ofl' the islft Vw K. Ity S. g S. iK'iU-ly liiilf a iiiilo ; ami S. by \V. '^ W. Iialf a luili'. Till' latter is awanli at lil;,'!! wator. TluTi' is no s;if«' passiu^e inslion- of Si'a-binl islet, and it shoiiM not be approached within 1^ miles. BARCLAY SOUND, an extensive arm of tlu; sea, IlO miles west.vanl of the eiitrancc of Juan de F'lica strait, is upwards of 14 n-iles wide at its entrance, and thou^'h encumbered l)y numerctus islands it maintains this breadtii for nearly 12 mihs iidand, when it separates into several narrow inlets or canals, the i)rincipal of which, the Alberni canal, extentls 2'.\ miles in a northerly direction, its head reachin<j within 14 miles of the eastern or inner coast of Vancouver island. Off the entrance, and in the southern parts of the sound, are innumerable rocks and islands, with several navigable channels betwi'eii them, which, however, ought to be used with great caution by a stranger. The shores are low, except in the northern part and among the canals, when they become high, rugged, and mountainous.* CAPE BEALE, the south-east entrance point of IJarclay t'ound, and of the Eastern channel, is lid miles N.W. by W, \ W. from the lighthouse on Tatoosh island. It is a bold rocky point, 120 feet high (the tops of the trees being 300 feet abuve high water), and some rocks extend off it. from 2 to 4 cables. The lighthouse is in telegraphic communication with the light- house at Carmanah, 8an Juan, and Victoria ; it is also a rescue station for shipwrecked persons. LIGHT. — Situated on a small islet at the extremity of cape IJi-ale, is a square lighthouse of a light stone colour 42 feet in height, from which is exhibited, at an idevation of ITS feet above the sea, a Jiashinii irhilr light, every hdlf iiiiiiii/'', and should be visiliK- in clear weather 11) miles. A ml sector is shown over Channel and Western reefs, l)etweon the bearings East and S.S.E. Position.— Latitude 48° 47 20' N., longitude 125^ 13' 30" W. Caution. — The light should not be brought lo ijear eastward of E. i X, so as to avoid the foul ground which extends off the entrances to Barclay sound. * Hee Admiralty plan of Barclay aouud, No. 5'J2, scale h(^ 165 inches. 31f) VANCOUVER IBLANt), WKST (!OAST. [('hap. VIII. Tides. — It iH lut,'li wator, t'ull ami cluiiiK*', in Biircliiy riuuiid lit nuun, uml tiic riHu and fall in ulmut 12 feut. Eastern cl nnel ol' Mart-lay simml, is 1:2 Jiiiii'.s Un\<i in a N.N.E. (lireution, and itH bnadtli \,iiio8 from nui' to I), mili's. Iht whori'S art* low and ru^rj,'tMl, cxcciit in ilu' nortli part, wliicli liecoini-H hij,')!. TliiTt' are Hevi'ral danj,''i'rs witliiii it ; viz,, (he rockn ofl capo IJeaki and Channt'l rocks at the Houthcru i)art. and tiic Foj,' rock oil" the eatit aide of Tzaartoos island, Bamfield creek. — At 4 milfs from cape IValf, oil till' cast side of Kastcrn channel, is the entrance to tw(» creeks, the soutln-rn of wiilch extends Ij miles in a soutlierl}' direction, with a hreatlth of from one to '2 cables ; tliere is room for a vessel to moor at a short distance from its head in G fathoms. A narrow passai,'e, ,'50 yards wide, with () feet at low water, runs from tiie head to an inner liasin, which is one mile l"»iif?» mid has from 2 to 1 fathoms. On (he west side of the creek, '^ cables north of Burlo island, a narrow led^o of rock, with iJ to 4 feet over it, i)rojects ni-arly into the middle of the pas8af,'e. The track or trail leading to cajie Bealo lighthouse begins on the western side of the head of the inner basin, and is shewn by a boaril nailed to the trunk of a large tree and marked "To cape Heale lighthouse." Grappler creek, the northern arm, ex.teuds two-thirds of a mile eastward from the entrance of I3amtleld creek, being about 40 yarda wide, witii from <S to 10 fathoms, after which it takes a northerly direction for one mile and becomes very shoal. Both these creeks aiford gooil sheltered anchorage to small craft. Kelp bay, 5;} miles from cape locale, is two-thirds of a mile wide, a tjuarter of a mile deep, and aH'ords a fairly-sheltered anchorage in from G to 14 fathoms. Its shores are low, and a rock which covers at one-third Hood lies one cable north of its south entrance point, and there is a small islet at its north jioint, which shows a conspicuous white mark ; f(jul ground, marked by kelj), exists in the north part of the bay. If intending to anchor in this bay, give the entrance p(»ints a berth of 2 cables, and anchor in its south i)art in (! or 14 fathoms, with the entrance points bearing S,W. by W. and N. by E. This anchorage is easy of access, but the bottom is irregular. See chart, No. 592. Chap. VIII.] BARCLAY HOUND. 317 Mark Islet, "^ milts Irom cape IVale, and ono cublo off the east Hide oi' the ell iiiiifl, is small, wotMlt'ij, ami i-oiispic-iioiiH troiii th(> (■ntraiK'c of Miitdltt tlianm-l ; iIh* short- hftwfcii it and Kelp hay is nt'arly strai^,dit, ami may ht* approadii'd to a distancf t)l' 2 cahles. NumukamiS bay, '.' mih-s from capt* Hfah-. at till' north-fast l)art ttl' Eastt'i'i) channt'l, is 11 mih-s wide and 1 J, miles th-t-p ; itsshon-s rist- gradually to nionntains from l.iMMl tt» :2,<Hl() I't-t-t lii;,di. Krom tho c-ontri' td" its lu'a<l Saiita valh-y t'xtt-nds eastward, a stream of con- siilerahlo si/e flowinv' from it into tlu^ hay. In tin- centre of the hay are the San .lost'- and Ret-f ish-ts, of small t-xtent, and low ; fmm the Houth p(»int td" tin- lattt-r it let a n-t-f t-xtt-mls om- eahle. Tln-i I- is no aiu'horaf^i- except in Christie l>ay, in its sonlli cDrner, when- there are from K* to (5 fathnms at a distance of 1 J, cahles from the shore. The sliores of Nnmiikamis bay arc- stet-p-to, t-xct-pt olV Sarita valh-y, wliere a saml-hank extends half a inih-. Poetl nook, in the stnith pari of Numnkainis hay, about one ndle within its st)iith-west ptjint, is a landlockeil i»asin,aliout ;> cal>!t-s loni; and 2 cabh-s wide, with 7 fathoms watt-r. The eiiti-anct- to it is nearly straight, one cabh- lon^', ami l.">0 feet wide, with 7 fathoms in the shoalest part. Turn island, at the north-east point of the Eastern chamn-l, and dividing it from the All»erni canal is small and wooded, ami separated by a narrow boat pass from the east shore. At ont--third of a mile sonth of it is a narrow creek, ',) cables long ami half a cable wide, with from 1* to 12 fathoms, available for small craft. Ship islet, at the south-west point of the eastern channt-l."2 miles N.W. h N., from capt- Ik-ale, is 1(H) ft-et high, rocky and hart-. DEER ISLANDS t-xtend N.N.E. and S.S.W. for 10 miles, with a breadth varying from om; to 2 nules. They are low, and of inconsidt-rabic size, excejjt the northern (Tzaartoos islamlj, which is 1,(>2G fet-t high in parts, and of consiih-rable extent. There is t)nly (me navigable passage thnmgh tht-m, the Satellite pass, between Helby ami Hill islands. King island, the southernmost of these islands, is from 'MM.) to 4()0 feet high, about one mile long and half a niih- broad ; its shores are very rugged and broken, with rocks extt-nding from one to *f chart, No. 592. :ii8 VANCOUVER ISLAND, WK'^ T COAST. [Chap. VTTT. 2 cablt'H off. This island is srpiiratod from Ship islet by a ijassii^o on»'-tliinl of a mile wid*-, hut then* is a rock in ^ho middh' of it, wliioli i« awash at hiph water. Channel rocks, on the west side of the channel, '.) cahles east of Kill;!,' island, and one mile K.N.E. from Ship islet, are about (me cable in »'xtent, and cover at half lood ; there are 10 to 12 faUioms at one cable eastward of them, and the sea ^'cnerally breaks over them ; they must be carefully avoided. Diana island, ."{'»(> to 400 feet hif?h, separated from Kin^' island by a i)assa^'e full of rocks, is about 1} miles lonj,-, and threeMpiarters of a mile broad ; its shores are rocky. Taylor islet, .')0 feet hi<?h, lies II cables S.S.W. i, \V. from its south-east point, Todd rock. — At 2 cables fntm the east side of Diana island is Todd rock, which covers at lii^di water, with I? fathoms eastward of it. Helby island, the next island northwai'd of Diana, has off its north side Knt ranee anclioraf.'e, a small l)nt wejl-sheltt-red anchoratje in from li to '.» fathoms, easy of access from either the Eastern or Middle channels, an., very convenient as a stojijiing place for vessels entering' or leavinj,' Barclay .sounil." Self point, at the east end of Helby islanil, appears like an islet and is conspicuous at night, the neck joining it to Helby island being very low. Wizard islet, to the northward of the anchonige, is small, about S feet high, !*.» I bare. It is about l caldes North of Helby island, and those intending to anchor should do so about one cable S.W. of the islet in tl fathoms. Hill island, two-thirds of a mile north of Helby island, is small, with a summit of moderate height at its s(tutliern end. At a (quarter of a mile South of it is a j)atcli of iU fathoms, marked by kelp, and there are several snuill islets and rocks oil its east and west sides. Robbers island, separated from Hill island by a j)aB8age full of rocks, is 2 miles long anil one ndle broad at its widest part. It \h low, and sti't'p-to <»n the easler;i side, and between it and T/aartoos island is a small laml-locked basin of 5 to 7 fathoms water, but almost inaccessible in consequence of the many rocks at its entrance. Ar chart, No. itii'2, * Sr )>lait of Entrance auuhoraxe on Aihuirulty c)mrt, No. *>S4 ; ncuIo, vi = 3 inchcii. Chap. VIIT.] RARCLAY SOUND.— ALBERNT CANAL. 319 TzaartOOS or Copper Island, tho northcrnmortt of the Deer iHliii'ulH, isl), miles loiij,' in ii X.X.K. (Urcction, and lA miies l)roa(l. It is hifjher ihiin tlie other "islamls, rising,' in many i)art8 to 800 antl itrt summit to l,i>"2t) feet ; its t^astern siile, excejjt in the vicinity of Sproat bay, is stee|)-to. Limestone of a fine *iuality is to be found in its nortlirrn i>;irl, and there are several indications of copp«>r and. iron ores. Sproat buy, on the east side of Tzaartoos ishmd, is al>out half a mile wide and 2 cables deep. In its centre are two small ish'ts, and between them and the southern side of the bay a vessel nuiy anchor in from U to 1.') fatlioms. licadinfj Idufl", situated just south of the bay, is a steep point 40r> feet hi>;h, and consj)icuous f;om tlie entrance of the Eastern channel. Fogr rock, lyinj; about 2 cables East of Sproat bay, is of small extent, with only !• feet <»ver it, and st«'ep-to around. This dauijer is in the track of vessels usinu: Sproat bay, and re(|uires caution to rtvoid it, lutt b('in<>' nuirked by kelj) in the s])rin;.'. The east si<le <tf Hill island open o!' Leadini,' blulf bearinjj S.W. ;{ S. leads south-east of Fo<j mck, and the west side of Nob jjoint well open east of I/imestone point \. ] W. leads well east- ward of it. Nob point, the south-west entrance point of Alb(>rni canal, at»d north-west point of Eastern channel, is about half a mile northward of T/.aartoos island, ami nearly \',\ miles from cape I'eale. It is a remarkable clilfy projecting,' point 47.') feet hifjrh, steep-to on itss(U)th and east sides. ALBERNI CANAL,atthe north-east part of Harclay sound, runs in a winding' northerly direction for 22 mib's, with a breadth varying' from 2 cables to oin" mile, and terminates in a line capacious anchora^fe at its head ; the shores on either side are rocky and ruf^'^ed, rising abruptly from the sea to mountains 2,(KI0 and .■l,(HHI fe»'t hifrb : at the head, however, llu' '.and beconu's low and fertile, a lari^e extent beinj^ (it for cultivation. .V setthunent aiul hir^e s!»w mills are estaldished there, and cptantities of timber exporli'd. There is also a salmoit fishery." San Mateo bay, on the east side of the canal, \\ miles north of Turn }»oiut, is three-(|uarters of a mile wide, and one jiiile deep ; its .Sf'r iihart, No. ri84 . :52() VANCOUVER ISLAND, WEST COAST. [Chap. VIIT, l! Bhores am liigh. A rock, \r,irt of which dries 'A to 4 ftu't at low wat»>r, with de})ths of 15 to iJ feel exIeiKkiiij,' a (jiiartcr of a eabie (southward, ileepeuint,' to 7 fathoms betwem it and tlie south shore of the hay, and dee}) water near in otlier (lirections, is bitnated near the head of Han Mateo hay, witli Hanton island centre bearinj,' N.W. I»y W., distant 2;^^ cableH. Mutine point, midway between Mateo bay and Turn island, is rocky. A sunken rock, with a dt'pth of 8 fe«'t on it a' low water, and 7 to (S fathoms close arounil, lies about one cable ollshore, northward of Mutine iH)iut, with Turn island north point bearintir S.S.W., distant '>.^ cables. A berth of 2 cables siiould be i^iven in passint,'. .lust Honth of this ))oint is Crickitt bay, not recojnmended. Itithcnlon bay is reported to be aj»ood anchora^'e, on clay bottom, but it is deep ; at the head of tlu; bay a small flat dries at low water. UOHUCKLESIT HARBOUR, on the west side ..f Alberni canal, '2 miles within N<d) point, is '.) miles lonjj; in a westerly direction, and its averaf,'e l)readth is about half a mile ; the nortli shore is hijjh, rising f,'radnally to mountains of 2,(M)0 and .'5,tHi(l feet, but the south shores anil heatl are low. 'J'here are two secure anchorajjes. Green cove at the entrance, and Snuj; basin at the head, with from D to l.'i fathoms water. Litnestoiie of a very fine (juality is to be ])rocnred at tho head of the harbour.* Green cove, just within the entrance, on the nortli side of tho harbour, affords a snu},', well-sheltered anchorajje, in froni l> to 14 fathoms, Ilarlwur island, oft its south side, and completely land-locking the anchorage in that tlirection, is of small extent, with a clear deep passaj^e on either side into the aiu'horaf^e ; a rock lies half a cable off its south-east poini. This anchorafije is convenient as a stoppinp; place for vessels bound to or from Stamp harbour at the head <»f \lberni canal. Steamer passa;.,'e, on the east side of Harbour island, is 2 cables lonj,', ami about l.'>() yards wide in the nurrowt si part, with nol less than 9 fathoms, but it should oidy he u.sed by steam-vessels, or sailing-ships with a fair wind. Ship passage, north of Harbour island, is 4 cables long, and 2 cables wide, with from 1 1 to 2(» fath-iiis, and available for sailing- ships unable to enter or leave Green cove by Sti-amer passage. 'Sec plan of Uohucklesit harbour on Admiralty chart, No. 584 ; scale, m = 3 inches. Chap. VIII.] BARCLAY SOUND.— ALBERNI CANAL. 321 M Snug" basin, on the north sitle of tho head of Ucliucklesit harbour, half a mile loiij^ in a northerly direction, about 2 cabU-s broad, is well adapted for relittinj^ or re))airing a ship, and affords anchoraj,'*! in 12 to 14 fathoms ; but the entrance, thou},'h deep, is only l.'iO feet wide. Water. — On the north shore, one mile from Green cove, is a large stream of fresh water, with a bank extending a short distance off it. Nahmint bay, on the west side of Alberni canal, 10 miles within its entnince, is about half a mile in extent, with froivi 19 to 20 fathoms water, and may be used as a stoi)ping place, if working down the canal ; a large stream disembogues at its head. First narrows, 13 miles from the entrance of the canal, are 3 cables wide at low water, steep-to on the west side, with 26 fathoms in mid-channel ; if passing through them at high water, keep well over to the western shore. Second narrows, 18 miles from the entrance, are 2 cables wide at low water, steep-to on the east side ; the west side dries out one cable at low water. The dei>th in mid-channel is 40 fathoms ; and in going through them a vessel ought to k^ep well over on tho eastern aide. STAMP HARBOUR, at the head of Alberni canal, is a capacious and secure anchorage, 2 miles in length, and varying in breadtli from 4 cables to one mile. Its western shore is high and rocky. l)Ut the eastern side and head are iow and fertile, with a quantity of clear level land.* Somass river, a stream of considerable size, flows into the head of the harbour, and is navigable for canoes seveml miles ; it has its source in a chain of extensive lakes in the interi»»r of Vancouver island, and the quantity of water discharged from it is so great that there i« a constant current out of the canal, often exceeding one knot in strength. The town Alberni is a settlement about 1.^ miles up tho river. "Navlgrable depths. — Steam-vessels not more than 1.50 feet in length and of 10 feet draught can reach the town wharf at high water, where there is a depth of 13 feet at low water. Somass river has black beacons on the west side, and red beacons on the east side of the channel. The least depth at the entrance is 3 feet ; (he chaimel deepens to 9 f>'et within. * Sfc plan of Stamp harbour, toalu, m a> 3 5 inuhot, on ohiuir Nu. 684. SO lli)«8 X 322 VANCOUVER ISLAND, WEST COAST. [Chap. Vlll. Observatory islet, in the centre of the harbour, is a small bare rock about 6 feet above high water ; some rocks extiiud half a cable north of it. Sheep islet, in the north-west part of the harbour, and 6 cables from Observatorj' islet, is wooded, and connected to the head of the harbour at low water by a sand-bank. Anchorage. — The anchorage in the harbour is excellent between Observatory islet and the old wharf, in depths of from 12 to 7 fathoms. Supplies. — Game is plentiful, and there is excellent fishing in the river and lakes. Fresh beef, vegetables, and fruit are plentiful and cheap. Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in Stamp harbour, at Oh. ; springs rise 12 feet. Directions for Barclay sound.— Entering Barclay sound through Eastern channel, cape Beale, may be i3a8ily recognised from the south-east, by the lighthouse and by the islands west of it. When approaching or rounding the cape do not come livsarer than half a mile to avoid the rocks off it, bring Leading bluff (T/.aartoos island) to bear N. by E. | E., when steer up the Eastern channel with that mark on, which will lead clear of the rocks off the west side of cap© Beale, and east of Channel rocks. When the north point of Ship island is in line with south point of King island bearing S.W. by W., the vessel will be well north of the latter, and may than steer up mid-channel about N.N.E. ; on nearitig Leading bluff, keep the east side of Hill island open south of it bear- ing S.W. ^ S., to pass east of Fog rock, until the west side of iVob point comes open east of Limestone point bearing N. ^ W., when steer up in mid-channel. If bound to Stamp harbour, after entering Alberni canal keep in mid-channel, except when passing through the First and Second narrows {nee page 321), and anchor on the eastern side of the harbour with the bearings already given. After entering Alberni canal, a strong southerly wind will generally be experienced, blowing home to the head ; it, however, usually falls a little during the night. See oharta, Nok 584, 092. Chap. VIII.] BARCLAY SOUND, DIRBCTIONS. 323 iVob If beating into the Eastern channel (which should only be done by small or quick working vessels). As a rule, when standing towards the east shore do not approach within 2 cal)les, and after passing the Channel rocks, keep outside of the line of Deer islands. Anohoragres. — If necessary to anchor. Entrance anchorage in the De«r group, just north of Holby island, is recommended, being secure, and easy of access from either Easfern or Middle channels. Kelp, Sproat, Christie, and Nahmii>t bays, also Green cove, are easy of access, and may be used as stopping places. Middle channel, the 'argest passage into Barclay sound, is apwards of 12 miles long N.N.E., and ',\ miles wide in the narrowest part, being bounded on either side by numerous small islands and rocks. The depths within it vary from 150 to 54 fathoms, and off its entrance are three dangers, viz., Western reef, Channel reef, and Danger rock, which only break in heavy weather, and require great caution to avoid. In southerly or south-westerly gales there is generally a very heavj sea in this channel. Swiss Boy island just open west of P^ntrance island bearing N.N.E. (northerly) leads half a mile East of Danger rock ; Mark islet open north of Ragged islet bearing N.E. leads three-quarters of a mile West of it, and the same distance East of Channel reef ; and Sail rock in sight west of Storm island bearing N.W. by W. ^ W. leads south of it and Channel reef. Danger rock, in the south-east part of the entrance to Middle channel, 3^ miles W. ^ N. from cape Heale, and 2^ miles S.W. by W. ^ W. from Ship iskt, is of small extent. There are from 22 to 40 fathoms at a distance of 2 cables around it. Channel reef lies near the centre of the entrance to Middle channel, 3^ milen W. ^ S. from Ship islet, and 1^ miles W.N.W. from Danger rock. It is about one cable in extent, and uncovers at low water. Western reef lies in the south-west part of the entrance to Middle channel, 5^ miles W. J S. from Ship islet, and one mile south of the Broken group. It is about one cable in extent, awash at low -.vater, and should not be ai)proached within half a mile. Entrance island, at the south-east part of Middle chi'anel, and nearly one mile W.N.W. from Ship islet, is of small extent, and wooded ; the tops of the trees being 350 feet above high water. It See cluurt, No. 592. SO 11948 X2 T I •^ ?.24 VANCOUVER ISLAND, WEST COAST. [Chap. THI. I is Bteep-to and cliffy on the Routh and west aides ; a quarter of a mile north-east of it is Loach iblet and some off-lying rocks. Hecate passage, leading into Middle channel between entrance island and Danger rock, is 2 miles wide, and is tha best way to enter Middle channel in thick weather, '»r from tha southward or eastward. Shark pass, between Entrance and Ship islands, is two-thirds of a mile wide, and may be used by steamers or sailing-vessels with a fair wind. Dodger cove. — Between Diana and King islands are two small islands (Hains and Seppings) connected to each other by a reef. Dodger cove, on the east side of Middle channel, is situated between these islands and Diana islan^l, and is a narrow creek about two- thirds of a mile long and one cable wide, with several rocks and small islets off its entrance. It affords good shelter to coasters or small craft at its head, where are from 2^ to 3 fathoms water, but it should not be attempiotl by a stranger, as the entrance along the south side of Diana island is rather intricate. Dodger cove is frequented between January and July, especially in bud weather, by the vessels engaged in the seal fishery. SATELLITE PASS, 3 miles from Entrance island, lies between Helby and Hill islands, connecting the Eastern and Middle channels. It is about one mile long and half a mile wide ; the depths in the middle varying from 9 to 22 fathoms, but 3 cables south of Hill island on the north side of the pass is a shoal patch of 3^ fathoms, marked by kelp ; Loading bluff open of the east side of Hill island bearing N.E. by N. leads to the south-etist of this shoal. Do not attempt to pass between Ragged island and Helby island. If bound to Alberni canal, after having entereil Middle channel, proceed through this pass into the Eastern channel and on to the inlet through the latter, keeping about one or 2 cables north of Ragged, Helby, and Wizard islands. Village rooks, lying on the east side of Middle channel, 6 miles from Entrance island, and one-third of a mile from the north-west point of Robbers island, are 2 cables in extent, nearly awash at low water, and the sea usually breaks on them in heavy weather ; they should not be ai)proached within a quarter of a mile. See chart, No. 692. Chap. VIII.] BARCLAY SOUND, MIDDLE CHANNEL. 325 Chain Islands, on the east-side of Middle channel, are a chain of small islets and rocks nearly 4 miles long in a northerly direction. They lie parallel to the west side of Tzaartoos island, being separated from it by a passage three-quarters of a mile wide, but filled with rocks, and through which no vessel should attempt to pass. Swiss-boy island, the southernmost of this group, is small and cliffy. Bull rock, 2 cai)les West of it, is of small extent, and has lesis than 2 fathoms on it, and breaks in bad weather. Caution. — Do not approach the western side of Chain islands within half a mile, except when rounding their north part. Junction passage, at 'he north-east part of Middle channel connecting it with Alberni canal and Eastern channel, lies north of the Chain and Tzaartoos islands. It is 2 miles long in an easterly direction, and about one-third of a mile wide. On the north side of the passage is Rainy bay, about 1^ miles in extent ; but there are several rocks and small islets within it, the shores are rugged and broken, and the water too deep to afford anchorage. Ecoole village is sitviated on Seddall island W. by N. } N. from Nob point ; the wharf can only be used by very small craft. Northward of this bay, and connected to it by a very narrow boat pass, is Useless arm, a large sheet of water with from 9 to 20 fathoms, not accessible to vessels. BROKEN GROUP, which forms the boundary of Middle channel along th« west side, is composed of a number of small islands and rocks, covering a space upwards of 6 miles long and 4 wide. They are low and the principal ones wooded, the largest being about one mile in extent ; there are several passages through them, and a good anchorage (Island harbour") in their north-east part, but as a rule no stranger should venture among them or approach within half a mile, as the depths are irregular, and other rocks may exist besides those known. Redonda, the south-east island of this group, lies 4^ miles W. i, N from Ship islet. It is small, wooded, and of a round shape ; some rocks extend 3 cables off its south-east point, and half a mile E.N.E. of it is a reef which covers at half-flood. Between Redonda island and Channel reef is a passage one mile wide, with from 11) to 33 fathoms, but it should not be attempted by a stranger. Seechttl No. 692. ' 386 VANCOUVER ISLAND, WEST COAST. [Chap. VIII. Vlllagre island, the largest of the group, is 1\ miles North of Redonda, and upwards of one mile in extent ; the east side is bold and cliffy. On its north side is a village of considerable size, where landing may be effected in almost any weather. Off its west side are Beveral small islets and rocks, around which is Port Efliingham, a good and safe anchorage ; when passing into the inner basin, which is perfectly landlocked, and has good holding ground, care should be exercised when passing the island. There is good fresh ■water at a small stream in the inner anchorage. It is much used by sealing schooners in preference to Dodger cove. Coaster channel, which runs through Broken group, north of Village island, is about 4 miles long, and from half a mile to one mile wide, and has depths of from 10 to 24 fathoms in it ; but as there are several rocks within it, this channel should not be attempted by a stranger. A sunken rock lies in Coaster channel 3 cables N.W. ^ N. from the north end of Grassy island. A rock, with a depth of 4 fathoms on it, lies in Coaster channel, with Puffin islet summit bearing N.N.E. l E., distant 4 cables. A rock, awash at low water springs, lies eastward of Owens island, with Puffin island summit bearing N.W. by W., distant SJ cables. Village reef, in the east part of Coaster channel, half a mile north of Village island, is small, and 4 feet above high water. A rock, with a depth of 7 feet on it, and marked by kelp, lies in the entrance to the bay on the north-west side of Village island, in a position with 40-feet rock bearing N.N.W., distant 1\ cables. Island harbour, formed by several rocks and islands, in the north-east part of Broken group. Puzzle and Gibraltar islands on the north, and Mullins and Keith islands, on the west, at 5 miles from the entrance to Middle channel, is a good, well-sheltered anchorage, about half a mile in extent, with from 10 to 14 fathoms ; and there are two good passages into it from Middle channel.* Maud rock, awash, lies 1| cables S.W. by W. from the west extreme of Mullins island, and a shoal extends E.N.E. from Marchant island, on which there is a dei)th of 9 feet at 1^ cables from the island. Shoal water extends eastward from the rock (above water), charted 1| cables East of Turtle island, having a depth of 9 feet at 1^ cables E. by S. from the rock above mentioned. *ilS^0 pUn of Island harbour on Admiralty ohart, No. 684 ; ncaU, m = ft inchea. Chap. VIII.] BARCLAY SOUND, 8BCHART CH ANNUL. .^27 A cluster of rocks, which dries 2 to 3 feet, lies in the position of the 3 fathoms, charted northward of Keith sland. Protection island, 250 to 300 feet high, is two-thirds of a mile long, narrow, and its coast is rugged and broken. Observation islet, 30 feet high, and another small islet south of it, lie half a cable from the middle of the south side of Protection island. Elbow rocks, which cover at two-thirds flood, lie H cables N.N.K. from Elbow island, between it and Protection island, and are steop-to on all sides. Pinnace rock, 3 cables East of Elbow island, almost in the fairway of the South entrance, only breaks in heavy weather, and is dangerous. Channel rock, in the middle of Harbour entrance, 4 cables from its east end, is of small extent, with 9 feet on it at low water. No one should attempt to enter this harbour without the chart, unless thoroughly acquainted with the place ; and it should only be entered by sailing-vessels with a fair wind. The best anchorage is near the centre of the harbour, about 2 cables west of the north-west end of Protection island, in from 10 to 12 fathoms, protected from the northward and from the westward by Puzzle, Keith, and Mullins islands. It is high water at full and change in Island harbour at noon ; springs rise 12 feet. Nettle island, the north-east island of Broken group, is nearly one mile in extent, steep-to off its north side, but east and west of it islets and rocks extend half a mile. Swale rock, at half a mile East of the eastern point of Nettle island, is a small bare rock 8 feet above high water, which is very conspicuous from Middle channel. Seohart channel, north of Broken group, connects Western and Middle channels. It is a winding channel 5 miles long, and about half a mile wide. A rock that uncovers at low-water springs lies 2i cables S.W. f S. from Sechart village, and 1^ cables N.W. | N. from the westernmost of the Hundred islands. Capstan island, 3 miles from the east entrance and nearly in the middle of this channel, is small, and the southernmost of a number of small islands extending nearly one mile from the north shore ; a rock lies half a cable south of it. North-westward of these islets is £!r« chart, No. S»2. 328 VANCOUVER ISLAND, WEST COAST. [Chap. VIII. the extensive villu^e Sechart, off which a vessel may anchor a quarter of a mile from the shore in 11 fathoms. Eastward of Canoe island in the approach to Anderson's wharf, rocks extend from the eastern shore of the i)aHs:ige to nearly mid- channel. Anderson's wharf is 200 feet lon>?, and has a depth of 18 feet water at the outer end. Northward of Sechart channel the west side of Middle cliannel is bounded by two Narrow islands about 2 miles in lenf,'th, and separated from the mainland by a narrow boat pass ; they should not be a!>proached nearer than half a mile. Bird JSletS, two small, bare, conspicuous rocks, lie almost in the centre of the north part of Middle channel, 9 miles from the entrance ; the southern islet is ii") feet, and the northern lU) feet above high water ; some rocks, which cover, extend one cable northward and westward of them. Efflngham inlet, in the north-west part of Middle channel, is narrow, and about 8 miles long ; its shores on both sides are high and rocky, and there is no anchorage. A sunknn rock lies i^ cables N.E. from the north end of Webster island, and nearly one cable from the east shore of Ellingham inlet. Vernon bay, one mile East of Ellingham inlet, at the head of Middle channel, is ni)wards of one mile in extent, open to the south- ward, and too deep to afford anchorage ; its shores are liigh and rocky. At '^ cables S.E. from i'almer point, the south-west extreme of Vernon bay, is Edward rock, 15 feet above high water, and 2 cables off the eastern shore of the bay ; just within i\>f* PTi+raKea is a ytef awash at high water. Western channel, leading into Rarclay sound westward of Broken group, between it and fJreat bank, is about 4 miles long, and from one to 2 miles l)road. Sail rock, lying off the south-west part of Hrokon group, is a bare rock like a sail, rising 100 feet above the sea, and very conspicuous ; northward of it arr some low islets and rocks extending from the south-west island of the group ; and on the east side of Western channel foul ground projects in some places half a mile off. Black rock, at the south-west part of Western channel, 3^ miles S.W. by W. ^ W. from Sail rock, is 10 feet above high water, and small ; si>me rocks which break extend 2 cables east of it. Great Bear islet, 30 feet high, lies 1^ miles N.N.E. from Black rock ; about See chart, No. 592. Chap. VIII.] BARCLAY SOUND, WESTERN CHANNEL. 329 • iith- aiid I'oine ibk'S A vet of and tho and on aces IlilCH and Jreat bout h«lf a cable off its east end there is a rock awash. Channel rock at tho south-east extreme of tho Groat bank, on tho west side of the Western channel, is l.") feet above hijjh water, bare, and stee])-to on its eastern side. From (,'hannel rock a reef extends IJ cables N. by W., upon w Inch the sea breaks at low water. Great bank is, within the lO-fathoms edge, 2^ miles long, and its greatest breadth is l\ miles; on tho shoalest parts, near tho north and Bouth-west ends, are from 3 to 4 fathoms, over which in heavy gales tho sea breaks. Shag rock, 8 feet above high water, on the eastern fli'le of the cliannel, 2\ miles N. J W. from Sail rock, and half a mile T^ st of tho Broken group, is small and bare, and foul ground exists one caljle from it. Round island, near the middle of the north part of the channel, ',)\ miles N. by W. from Sail rock, is small, but 200 feet high. Qowllanu, Table, and Castle islets, at the northern termina- tion of Western channel, are small, but steep-to on their south sides. At 2 cables N.W. of Table islet is a rock, awash at high water, and ha.f a mile N.E. from it is a patch 3 cables in extent, with from 4 to 7 fathoms ; the best passage into Toquart harbour ai)pears to be east- ward of these islets. A rock, which dries 9 feet, lies about three- quarters of a cable eastward of Gowlland islet, and a rock, awash at low water, lies one cable North from the island. Directions. — Western channel, though ^vide, should only be used by steam-vessels or sailing-vessels with a fair wind, and not then unless bound to Tocjuart harbour, in the north-western part of Barclay sound. When entering, give Sail and Black rocks a berth of half a mile, and steer up in mid-channel, passing half a mile West of Round island. By keeping Castle islet well open westward of Round island, bearing North, will lead between the reefs. Peacock channel, through the north-west part of Broken group, is about 3 miles long, and nearly one mile wide. A rock lies nearly in the centre of the channel midway between Dodd and Pender islands. It has 4 feet water on it, anil lies 4^ cables S. by W, J W. from the south end of Pender island. Galley rock, on the east »ide of Peacock channel, 1§ miles within the west entrance, and 2 cables west of Puzzle island, uncovers at low water. See chart, No. 593. 330 VAiNXOUVER iSLAND, WEST COAST. [Chap. VIII. Mayne bay, northward of Lyall point, is 2 miles lonj? and one mile deep. Its HhoreH, except near the north part, are low and Bteop-to, and there ih no anchorage except in itH south-east corner, where there is a limited area with 14 fathoms at about 2 cables off-Hhore. Stopper islands, lyin>? half a mile West of Mayne bay, are about 1^ miles in extent, wooded, and 200 feet hi^'h ; the rocks extend from 2 to 3 cables off their cast and west sides. I^arkins island liea close off their west side ; a reef awash at high waiter extends 2\ cables N.N.W. from its north end. Richard rock, 4 cables eastward of Stopper islands, is steep-to on the east side. Do not pass between this rock and the islands. Hermit islet, 3 cables North of Stopper islands, at the north-west point of David channel, is low ; at 2 cables N.W. by W. from it is a small wooded islet, about 50 feet high to the tops of the trees ; a rock lies close to its south-west side. Toquart harbour, in the north-west comer of Barclay sound, is about 1^ miles in extent, and well sheltered from all winds by Stoi)per islands. Its shores are low and steep-to, except from the head, where Black patch, a shoal with 9 feet on its outer part, extends out nearly half a mile. Image island, lying 3 cables off shore in the north-east part of the harbour, is small, and northwest of it is an excellent anchorage in from 11 to 12 fathoms. Pipestem inlet, extending upwards of 5 miles N.E. from Toquart harbour, has depths of 19 to 37 fathoms, but affords no anchorage whatever ; its shores are rocky, and rise abrui)tly to 1,000 and 2,000 feet above the sea ; at its head is a small patch of swampy ground, with some fresh-water streams flowing through it. Entering Toquart harbour by David channel, after passing Lyall point, steer well into Mayne bay, to avoid Richard rock ; when Hermit islet comes well open of the Stopper islands, steer for the harbour, passing midway between the Sisters and Stopper islands, and eastward of Hermit islet ; anchor in 14 fathoms, with Image island bearing N.E. by N., and Hermit islet S.E., or proceed further northward and anchor in 11 or 12 fathoms. Ship Ohannel, between the Vancouver coast and Great bank, southward of Forbes island, leads into the Ucluelet arm, and is 4 miles long N.N.E. and S.S.W., two-thirds of a mile broad in its narrowest part. Double island, at its south-east part, is of small See chart, No. 692. Chap. VIII.] UARCLAY SOUND, UCLUKLBT ARM. 331 oxtont, Bteep-to on the wt'Ht side, but from tho Houth and oast sides foul ground extrndn upwards of half a nuie. Kulp islot, 6 cables N.W. of Doul^le island, on tho opposite tsidu of tho chaunel, is low and bare ; kelp extends 2 cables South of it. Ugrly channel, eastward of shelter islands, is bounded on both sides by rocks and reefs, and, though probably deep, it has not been Burticiently examined to recommend its being used by a stranger. Starlight reefs, at its south-east part, are a cluster of rocks about 7 cables in extent, some above high water; in bad weather the sea breaks heavily over them. Look-out island, on the west side of Ugly channel, is well wooded, of small extent, and about l.'iO feet high ; at 3 cables South of it is Humphries reef, a patch of recks 2 cables in extent, and G cables North of it lies a bare rock 6 feet above high water, UOLXJELET ARM, just within tho south-west part of Barclay sound, extends 5^ miles N.W. by W. Its south shore is low, and the northern shore rises gradually to a flat-top range of considerable height, the south-east shoulder of which, mount Ozzard, 2,270 high, is conspicuous from the south-east. The depths in this arm vary from 4 to 8 fathoms, and there is secure and well-sheltereil anchorage between Sutton rock and Channel island. Care should be taken when entering this arm, as there are several sunken rocks near the shore. There are stores and post oflice at Ucluelet. Shelter islands, upwards of half a mile S.K. of the entrance, are small islets and rocks about one mile long and 3 cables wide, which completely shelter the arm from the sea. Centre reef, 3 cables west- wanl of their northern part, is of small extent, and about 3 feei, above high water. Aljjha passage, between Centre reef and Shelter islands, is 2 cables wide at its narrowest part, with depths of from 11 to 14 fathoms. There is, however, sjiid to be a sunken rock in this passage, and it should, therefore, not be used. Carolina channel, westward of Centre reef, appears to be the best for a stranger to use if entering the Ucluelet arm from seaward, but in heavy weather, when there is a long swell from seaward rolling in the entrance often appears to be an unbroken line of surf. A small pinnacle rock, with a depth of 6 feet on it, with 4^ to 5 fathoms between it and the shore, and G^ fathoms close eastward, marked by seaweed but not kelp, lies nearly half a cable from the See ohut, No. b'i'i. ' 332 VANCOUVBR ISLAND, WEST COAST. [Chap. VIII. Bouthorn entrance point intu Stewart bay, with Native islet bearin/sf N.W. ^ W., distant 4J cables. A rock, with a (l«'pth of .') f<'<»t on it, and 3.1 fathoms close to on its northern Hide, lies with Nutive islet bearing N.N.W. I W., distant 4J cables. A rocky patch, marked by kelp, with a depth of 5 fathoms on it, is situated with Ampiiit^ite point bearing \V. g S,, distant IJJ cables. A rocky patch, marked by kelp, with a deptli of 1^ fathoms on it, is hituatod with islet (.W ft.) on south-west side of Round island bearing W. J S., distant 1| cables. A rock, which dries 2 to 3 feet, with 4 fathoms close-to on its nrrthern side, lies about half a cable from the northern coast of Ronnd island, with Native islet bearing N.W. J N., distant 5J cables. Stewart bay, on the north side, half a mile within the entrance, is 2 cables deep, and half a milo wide. In its centre is a rock awash at high water, and the bay is too shallow to afford anchorage except to a coaster ; there is a nativt) village of considerable size in its west l)art, off which some small rocks extend about half a cable. A rock, with '2] fathoms on it, lies with wharf in bay (m south side of entrance bearing S. g W., distant 3 cables ; and Native islet N.W. I W. A rock, with 3 feet water, marked by kelp and eel grass, lies nearly three-quarters of a cable off the first point north-west of the Indian village abreast Leading \unni There are 2 J fathoms close around, and the depth increases (piickly to 7 fathoms in the fairway. Channel Islet, in the middle of the arm about 2 miles within the entrance, and one mile past Leading point, is small. There is a cleur passage north of the islet with 7 fathoms, but only 2 fathoms on its south side ; at 2 cables N.W. Ijy W. from the islet lies a small rock abov«^ high water, steep-to on all sides, except the south-east, from wliioli a sluial with 2^ fathoms water ext«'ndrt one cable. To tiie westward of Channel islet the arm beeomes wider, allording good anchorage in 4 to 7 fathoms, over a space one mile long and half a mile wide. Sutton rook consists of two rocks, each of small extent, lying 93 yards apart in a N.W. ^ W. and S.K. I K. directicm. The southern rock, '.\ cables S.E. by E. J E. from Channel island, has 7 feet on it, the northern one lu feet. A spar buoy coloured red «nd black in horizontal stripes is moored on the shoalust of the rocks. Se/i ohart, No. 5>3. Chap. VIII.] UCLUELBT AIIM.— CLATOQUOT SOUND. 333 llllTU oil itj ■k iu A little more than one cable N.E. of Sutton rock, and 30 feet from low water mark, is a narrow rocky lodge 40 feet in length, which dries 2 feet. Direotions. — Several chaniieln lead into Ucluelet arm, with apparently deep water through them, but there are ho nnny ' .oks and dangers in their vicinity that great vigilance is recommended, and it wouhl hardly be advisable to enter without a pilot ; should it, however, be necessary to do so, steer for Amphitrite pomt, and when about 2 cables from it, proceed eastward through the Carolina channel, keeping about 2 cables off its west shore to avoid Centre reef. Pass Round island, distant one cable, and steer W.N. W. up the arm, keojjing well over to the south shore ; pass Leading point within half a cable to avoid the rocks abreast of it on tiie north side, and anchor midway between "^utton rock and Channel islet, in 6 to 9 fathoms ; or proceed further westward, where a more extended anchorage will l)e found, taking care to pass north of Channel islet. WRECK BAY, I miles westward of Amphitrite point, is nearly 3 miles wide, and ono mile deep, with the small islet Horencia in the centre ; there are several rocks in the bay, and it is totally unlit for anchorage.* Long bay, H miles westward of Amphitrite point, is 7 miles wide and upwards of one mile deep, with from 8 to 11 fathoms between the entrance points ; there are several rocks in it, and no vessel should anclKtr here ; at its H<uith-eaHt point, just within the reefs, good shelter for boats will be found in all weathers. Schooner cove, in the north-west part of the bay, is of small extent, with 2 fathoms water ; it would afforil good shelter to a coaster or small vessel. Portland point, the north-west extreme of Long l)ay, is high and abrupt, with some small rocks and islets around it, at a distance of half a mile. Gowlland rocks, 1^ miles W.S.W. from Portland point, •xrv of small extent, bare, and from 10 to 1') feet above high water; they should not be api)roached nearer than ono mile. Caution. — When navigating between Barclay, and Clayoquot sounds, do not approach tha shore within 2 miles. CLAYOQUOT SOUND comprises a number of inlets, covering an area 30 miles long, and 10 broad. The entrance to it is fringed by numerous dangerous rocks, which require caution to avoid ; * Ste Admiralty ohart :~Syduoy inlet to Natiukt, No. 684 ; scale, m a 0*6 uf iaob. 334 VANCOUVRn TSMND, WB8T COAST. [Chap. VIII. it lies between Cox and Sliarp points, bearing? from each other W. by N. } N., and E. by S. J H., diHtant 21 miloH. There are Hovoral channels into the iiuu'r watern of thin sound, bnt with the exception of Ship channel tlu-y Hhould not be attempted by a Btnmper. Tides. — It is hij,'h wat^T, full and chan^f, in Clayo(iuot sound at noon, the rise and fall bi'injf about 12 feet. Cox point, at the south-east extreme of ('hiyo(juot sound, is rocky, and Var;j;a.M cone, a remarkable summit, •ilJ2 feet hiK'h, rises just within the point, and is very conspicmms from the westwarL Tomplar channel is a winding i>aB8a^'e al)out t miles long in a N.N.W. direction, with an avorago breadth of half a mile. The soundings vary from S to 10 fathoms in its entmnce, to 3J fathoms in its shoaleat part near the north end, and a shoal bank lies in Uio middle abreast Wakennenish island ; in hea%y v/catlier thesea breaks across the channt-1. No vessel dniwing more than 12 feet should attempt to enter the sound by this cluumol, and not even then without a pilot, as it is very intricate, and no directions can be given. False bay, just northward of Cox point, is about half a mil*' in extent, open to the south-west, and unfit for anchorage ; its shore are low and sandy. Wakennenish island, on the west siile of tlu* channel, one mile from Lennard iidand, is about 2(H) feet high ; at its south point is K cha diets, a large Indian village, generally occupied by the natives during the summer fishing season. Htnbbs island, 2 cables west of Round island, lias a snnd bank extending one mile northward of it, the extrem*- of which is marked by a black can buoy. Broken channel, betwein Wakennenish and Vargas islands, westward of the former, is upwards of 2 miles long, and half a mile wide in it.s narrowest part, with from (' to If) fathoms water ; several rocks lie oir i*s entraiic*', and on both sides; the tidal strL^anis run through from 2 to 5 knots, and no one should use it without a pilot. McKay reof, lying off the ontrance, 4 miles W. by N. from Cox point, is of Hinall extent, 5 to HI feet above high water, and the seu generally breaks heavily over it. Passage rock, which covers at high water, lies two-thirds of a mile North of McKay reef. Vai*B:as island, on the west side of Broken channel, is 1^ niile« long, and 4,^ miles wide at its broadest part, 'md its snrface is low See ohMTt, No. D84. \\ Chap. VIII.] CLAYOgUOT SOUND, SHIP CHANNEL. 335 ami umluliUiiiK ; "'^ ♦'»« ea.st(>ni side near the middle \h Kelwmart. a native villaj?*'. Hhiiulcn iHhmd, wi'stward of 0|)on bay, in oi Hmall sizo ; numnDUB rccfn aru Hcatterud about tliis locality. SHIP CHANNEL, wentwanl ol" Var',aH island, between it and a nuiiibfr of small islands and rocks, is the only passa^'e into Cliiyo(|Uot sound which should b»» attempted by a stran^'T, it is 5 miles lon^,' and from three-quarters to 1.) miles wide. The ilepthB in the south part vary from 20 to'2'.l fathoms, decreanini,' to r)|j fatluuus in tht^ shoalest part near tlu^ north end ; the tidal streams set throu^'h it at from one to 2 knots. Hare island is small, 40 feet high in the centre, and forms a jjood mark for identifying Ship channel ; a rock on whi<'h the spa breaks lies f) caldes K. by H. from it ; also, a rock on which the uea breaks lies about half a mile W. by S. f^(^m the summit of iian- island. Plover reeft, on the eastern Bide of the channel half a mile N.W. froni Jlare island, are of Ciinsiderable <fxt«nt, stretching one mile from the western side of Hlunden island ; some parts are (5 feet above high water, and there are f) fathoms at 2 cables West of th**m. Sea Otter rook, 2 milts W. by N. fnwn Hare islet, ia very small, ♦') feet above high wal<'r, and Uiere are .'> fatlntniB doso-tu, oil" its cast side. A rock upon which the sea breaks lies about a tjuarter of a inile eastward <»f Sea Otter rock. Shark reefp, some of which cov-'er, others (5 and Id feet above high water, lie 2 miles N.I5. ij N. from St i Otter roik ; they are about 3 cables in <*xtent, and should net be a >proaclu'd nearer thiiii 2 cables on their Bouth and east Hides. Lawrencj islands, on the west side, 2^ miles from Sea Otter rock, are Kiv.uii, low, and wooded ; but steep-to on the eaut side. Bartlett Island, half a mile westward of Lawrence islands, in low and \s()od«^d ; it,< shores are much broken, and a number of rocks t'xtetid for a (juarler to half a mile on all sides of it, and the island should not bo appn .ichetl within the latter distance. Twin islets, 4 miles from S««i Otter rock, are low, but wooded, and connected at low water ; kelp extends one cable South of them. Heoate passaj-re, north-east of and connecting Ship channel with the inner watern of ('layo(|Uot sound, Ib 'A miles long and upwards of one mile wiile ; there are several rocks on both itH shores. an<l a sand bank iu its centre, but to the southward of the bank along the north coast of Vargatt is ti clear paHsage with nut lesH than .'>^ fathoms. men cluMrt, No. fttt4. ■^5HHI 336 VANCOUVER ISLAND, WEST COAST. [Chap. VIII. ■ i i I Half-tide rock, 2 cables from Varpas iHJand, is of small extent, and covers at half flood. Hobbs isltst open West of Burffess islet bearinj,' S. by W. } W. leads 2 cables West of it : and the Twins in line with the north-west Whaler island bearing W. by S. leada 2 cables north of it, and sonth of North bank. Oat-face mountains, fronting Ship channel, are a remarkable flftt-toj) range i\,'Mi) feet high, with some patchtts of clilf and whitG bare rock in about the middle of their south siile. They are v»'ry conspicuous from seaward. Ahousat village with stores and post office is now moved to Flores island half a mile north of Base point. Deep pass, between two islands at the north-oast part of Hecate passage, is about 3 cables limg and 1^ cables wide, with 9 fathoms water, and is the best channel leading fr«»m IltK-ate passage into the inner waters. The tidal streams sot at the rate of frouj 2 to IJ knots through it. Hecate bay, 2 miles North from Deep pass, on the west shore, ia 6 cables wide and 3 caliles deep, with from D to 10 fathoms; it is one of the best anchorages within the sound, being easy of access and well sholten-d. There is a stream of fresh water in the middle of the bay, very convenient for watering. Cypress bay, 4 miles North from Deep pass, is nearly 2 miles in extent, with from 12 to 2(5 fathoms over it. On the east and west sides the shores are low, but are high on the north. Mussel rock lies 1 cables olT the east shore <»f the bay jmuJ half a mile N.N.W. jj W. from tlio east extreme. It is of small extent, and covers at threo- quarlors flood. Calm creek, in the norih-eaKt i>iu't of Cypress bay, is 6 cablet, long in the same direction, with from 4 to l) fatiioms, l)ut the entrance to it being narrow, with only 2 faihoms water, it is unelesB for anchorage, except to small craft. Thero is good anchorage in Cypress bay in 12 fathoms near Its north part, at half a mile from the shore ; and though it is open to the southward, no sea rifles. Meares Island, within the eastern part of Clayoquot sound, is 6 miles in extent in a iu)rtherly and 7 miles in an easterly direction. The coast, except on the north side, is high and rugged, and thero Stt chart, No. 684, ciiiip. \ni.] (LAVtM^i'oT s')i\i>. MKhWKM, soi\ii. ;5;;7 ;iif riovfi-al iiii>iiiit.\inK on th«> ea«t aiitl wcHt nidcH npwanlH of '?,(MH» fVet !il)(»ve tin- h«^ii ; one on tlic hittor «ii|«', nann'(l I,(»iif I'nii*', an isolated couioal m'«nntain, in 2,;52r) feet liijrh,nn(l vt-ry conHiucuous from Hi-avvanl near the eiiiranct of Sliip channol. |)iHa))|)ointiaent inl«'t runs nearly through iho inlanil from tin- south side to north, and then- are swveral other hichtnand l),iyK. < "|jiyo»|iiot settlement is on the ^oiiih-wesl extreme of the islMtei. Deception channel, n eomiuuation of Mn»ken ehaiiii'. !, Iietween Meart-s anil N'argas islandb, is ahont !> miles lon^ north ami south, and half a mile w ide, with irri>;,Milar depths of from .'• u> '.Ml fathoms. There are several rocks in its north-wehi |»;>rt : and a larp- sand- Itank. whieli partly dries at low water, extends from Var(;as island .ilonj,' its west side for in'iirly 2 miles, redueini.'' the deep part of the pasHaife to aluiut '.\ euldes. The tidal streatn setH at from 2 to T) knots throu^'h this ehaiiMel, and a stranv,'er should not attempt its navi^'a- fion. Local steam-vessels and those havinw loeal knowledjre use it, keejiiny close alonfj the north sliort . Ritchie buy, on the north-west side of Meares island, 2 miles easiwaid of Deep pass, is one mile wide, half a mile deep, ami all'ordH anchora^;!' in .')!, to III fathoms at 2 ciiMes ofV its eastern sitle. 'I'lie shores of the l)ay iire rocky. Yellow hank, which lies almost athwart the entrance of this hay, is about ihree-t^uarters of a 'iiile in extent, and has '.\ feel on the sho.ihfst part. If wishing' to anchor in Ijitchie ha>, and oomiii)? from Deep pass, proi red eaHtwanl to pass altout ono oalile North of Kohert point, and keeping the s{im« distance oil' the .south siiore, steer into the bay, anchoring in •'» '»'■ 7 fathoms about 2 cables from it^ east side, with the exirenies l>earin>/ North and S.W. ^ W. : enterin^^' from the norlhwanl, steer n)iil\vay hetweeii Sar.innc island and tlie n»»rtii point of the l»uy. Bedwell sound, the entrance to whicli is l.J, miles Kast from Cypress Iki\ , is 1 miles l«>n>.' and one mile broad till within 2 miles iif Its head, wln-n ii lonlnici* to ;{ caliles : the shores are Id^'h and ruu'tred. risinu on tlie east -nle to sharp ja^r^ed penks from 2,()(Ht to l.-ltKM'cel above the sea. At its head is a small patch nf low swiunpy land, and :i valley fr»»«ii which Hear river, a stream <if ( onHiii-rable si/e, tbiWN into the ii«»nnd The depths in the sound vary froiK 3o to 4r> fathoms, and there is im ancliorajre whatever within it. N'f oliari. No. ."'St 80 IIIHs mm ;i;$s VANCOrVHR iSI.AVn. WKST COAST. [fhap. VIII. I . .'1 Race narrows, t-aHt of M«Ml\vt*ll houiuI, an* li niih'H long, and al)ont 2 cal)h's wide in tho narrowfst part ; the tidal HtrramB s«'t throngh lh«'rn at 3 to 4 knotn, the flood from tlic wM'Htward, and iImtc arc 10 fatlioiiiH in tilt' Hlio!ii«>Ht part of mid-fliannt-l. Hijiplf inh'tH, off the caHt t'lilranoc to Riicc narrows, arc al>ont 'J(> fed hitrh, Hrnali and covered with IhihIh'S ; there are Hoinc strong' tid(> ripK around thcni. Warn bay, to the cawtwanl of Haec narntws and one mile from the north-ciiKt part of Mcarew inland, is upwards of 'i miles Jonj,', and about tliree-»|uartcrs of a mile wide; the shores on liftth sides arc hlifh, hut h»\\ at the liead, from whence issue several streams, and a sand-bank dries out upwards of oiu- cable. The depths in the buy arc irre^'ular, varying' from .'!• lo S lathoms, l)ut a vessel may anchor about ;» cables off shore nciir the west side of the hea<l of the bay in 11 to |('i fathoms. Fortune channel, between the cast side of Mcares island and the nniin, is 't miles long, north and south, and varies in breadth from !5 cables to I } miles ; its slmres arc high, aiid there are sevenil ofl-lying rocks (»n its west side near the mithlle. '{'he east shore of the channel from Warn bay to Deception pass is rocky, and indented liy several small bays which afford n«» aiuhoiage. Mosquito harbour, on the east Hide of Mt'ares island, iH mirrow, and about 2 miles long; there are several rocks and Hinall islets otf its entraiu'c, but it affords good anchorage insidt' in from 4 to 7 fathoms; the entrance is 1,', calilcs wide, with 11 f'atlioms, ami tlie harbour is easily entered by a steamer. Ilankin rock lies 'i.'t cai)lcs south-west of I'lover ]ioint, ami in the tmck of vessels entering Mosquito harliour : it is marked by ki-lp, and there arc '2',\ fatiiouis midway between it and the point. Wood islan<ls, in ilic middle df the enti",incc. nearly half a mile west of l'ln\cr point, are small, and some rocks lie a short distance of!" their south jtart, iiut there is a char |iassai;i' intu the hnrbour on iiotii sides «d (hem, with 7 fathoms water. lUackbeiiy islets, in the centre of the harbour ;iml three-iiuarters of a mile from the entrance, are small, but steep-to. there being I fathoms within om* ruble of them. When entering Mos(|uito harboiii-, rouml I'lover point one cable distant to avoid the Ilankin rock, and keep nnilway between WocmI inhuulH and the east shore, anchoring in alxnit 7 fathoms, oue-thinl .Sit chart. .No. i'lSl 'ii III ('||ji|i. VlfJ.] ( l,.iV<H/lOT sol'NIi. imnWMNi; I'.v^sAfSK. ;»:'.'.• in th«- •y kflp, nart»Ts liciuK of a mile Month of tlio ISI:u-kh«-rry inJi'tH ; a vt*HK«'l may **y\Wv wrKtwanl of (hi' Wood ishnuls l>y k<-«>|iin(f midway hftwt'cn th.'in and the Hhon-. Deception pass, at the south extntmu of Fortuuf chnnnt'l and coiuH'ctinj,' it witli Tdino inlot and llrownin^; passa^i", in a winding channt'l al)i)Ut 1), niih-s lonj,' and 2 cahh'H wiile ; tin' dcjithrt vary from ](• to '.'(• radioniH, and th»' tidal strt'aiuH wt witli r(»nHid«'ral»lt' sin'n>.'ih lhri»ni,'h ii. On \tn wi'st sido i-^ a narrow treck lialf a milo lon^ wit'i from S to '.> fatliomx, and in (hr middle of tin- pass i^ a small iHlci. Totlno inlet, in ih«' t-aMteni part <d' ('layo(|ii(it sound, is altoul l<l milfH loni;. and varies in hrcadth from a half to 1[, miles; tin shores are hlirh ami rocky, indented on the west wide l»y s(»me lar)^e creeks. The depths vary from 22 to I'lS fathoms, and tiiere is no anchorau'e, exci'pt near the entrance on the west side. Island cove, lialf a mile West of Warn island, is of small extent, with from H to jO fat hoi:. s in the middle, and com|i|fiely landlocked; a small island lies ofV the eniraiice, with a clear passaire one rahle wide on either side of it into the c«tve. (lunner harliour. on the wi-st side of the inlei, just north of Warn island, is 1), miles lon^'. hut narrow : a small islel lies in its centre, alioul half a mile north of the entrance, and hetween them a vesHe] may find ptod anchoi-.ip- in ahoin Id fathoms : the harbour ItecomuH shoal towards the head. Tmnquil creek, on the west side of the inlet \\ miles north from Warn island, in narrow, and npwanlsof one milelon^' ; its shores are liiirh and rocky, and the creek is too deep for iinchoraj;e. hetween Trauiiuil creek ami Warii idaml, alonj; the west shore. are several small rocky islets, e (tending from "i to ;{ lahles oM Deer treek, one mile lont; and a t|uarter of a mile hroad. has an inconvenient dcpili for anchoratre, there licin^' from '2'i to 'J'.t fathoms inside it. Browning: passage, ^'n the south siile of Meares island, connecting' Totino inlet with Templar channel, is .'> miles lon^' in a westerly direction, and less than hall a mile hroad. lis east end is only \\ t-aliles wi<le, unti off the west entrance there are several rocks, and no stran^'er, except with a sinull vessel, should attempt it. The dc|tths in it vary from I to 12 fathoms, and the tidal streams set through at a rate of 2 to i Koois, the liooil siieani froiii tin westward. .V/ chnrt. .Vn. -tM. SO ntf4M Y2 gr :'.l<> VAN'<'orvKH isi,\Ni>. wvm'V coast. [("nnj* vni. A ntok, witi) ii (In))tli of S f»M>( on ii. 1.^ to '» fatlioinH to ilu' north- ward, and 2 to 4 fathi»mH to tin- Hoiithward. is Hiiuiitcd noftliward of tho JHh'ts itt tlu' ciiHtorn end of Mrownin;; piisHa</f. 'V\w fairway is on tho northern sid<' of llic i k, and cairit's a dt'|itli nf .'» fallioinH. A r«'d spar ])tioy marks tin' rock. Tho jiassii^'c southward of th»^ ish>ts it is n'cotnnifndcd in profcr- «>noo to tliat lo thi' noriliwanl. North Channol, lo ilic westward u\ ship tiianii'l, and scparaifd from it i)V a niiiniifr <d' ^uiali islands and rocl\S, iios aloiiK (hf soiilh- «-asl sldi- of Khtrt's ishind in a nortii-t^aHlfrix dii-fcpon. It is t inih-s ioii^r, half a iniif widf in tht- narrowest part, and tho dt-pths in it vary from 7 to 17 fathoms : hotli sid«-s of tlic (diainirl ari* Itordt-riMJ liy itmiiiiifraldr rocks, ami a stranj^cr is not i-'cointncndcd to use it, as it has not iiccn clostdy cxainiiicd ; tln> sea ^'ciiffally iir»'al<s iica\ ily alon^r Itoth sides of its outer part. FlorOS island, in ilie w. -stern part of ( 'layiMjiKr, sound, iietweeii North channel and Sydney inlet, is m-arly 7 miles in extent : it Is low on the south anil east sides, lull hiudi mi the north and west, riHinj; in some places to ;'.IMII> feet : the shores are riiL'ired and hroken. and there are several oll-lyiny ro-ks aloinr its south and west sides ; as a rule its <uiter part <lu>uld not lie appi-oaeiied iH'arer than 2 miles. North arm, hetween tlie i-ast sides of Klorcs island and the main, is altoui S miles hui^j in a S.K. by S. direction, and nearly one mile hroiid. Its western shores are hiyli, Imt decreas.s gradually tn the southward: the depths arc very i,'reat in llic north pari,liut tiny shoal rapidly to the southward, win ir a xcssi-l uia.\ amhor in from .'> to S fathoms ahrcasi Uasi- )toini. Matilda creek, on the west side of Nnith arm. ahreasi the eiilran oiij,' III a S..S. to Ilerhert arm, is I [ miles I with from Id to 'i."» fathoms. Inn iis'Ichs as an amdiori Cl' dircctiiui. \er\ narrow. p- Herbert arm, ihe entrance to which is on ihe east side <»f Nuitli arm, alioiil ".' miles fnuii ihesuuili eiiiranet nl the lattei, is',' miles lon^r, in a iioiilierlv directiuu, an 1 its a\erai>e l>readth is about one mile. The shores art; mounlainous, and iiMieh broken, Mawiieii li.iy. on the south side of entrance to lierliert arm, ami ahoul 1.1, miles S.K. of Cone island, is of small extent, and all'ords aiudntraue in l.'» fathoms, near the centre; eiuer it in mid-channel. White Pine OOVe, on the east sid»'of Herbert arm. nearly 15 miles Ifom the entrance, is small, with a bank extenilinu from the head ; .Viv ohftri. .Nil. '.iM. ('Ii;i|t. VIU.] CI.AVogl «»T S(HM). SVhVKY IM.KT, :ui lllillll, t' mile to tlic ■\ sliual fniMi N'nltll iiiilfs illiollt II, nii<l itlDrds iiii>l. miles li«'ilil ; a small vi'hh«*I iiiiiy aiicliMr cluHr to the ft\m- nf this hunk in ulioui |l> t'atlioMiH: caiv, Imwovt'i*, slioiijil Ih- taken to avnid a shoal of ',\ fatlmnis Ivin^' uliuoHt in niiil-chanin-i, at alimit 7 i*ul)lfs from the ht'iui i>\ tilt! (oxo. Directions. —Kntrriny^ (Mayoiputt sc.un.l l»y Ship chiuuu'l (which latter w ill casilv In- i o;,'iiisci| liy Maff island, St-a Otter foek, and a I'einai'kahle ^iiininit inland, the Lunu cone*), i-nund either liaru island or S.a Otter rnek at the disianee ot" half a mile, and siver up the ehaniiel with the south point of Lawrence island and the Twins islets in line with the iiorih siimmii of the ('at-fac«> mountains bearin)^' N.N'.K." Keep the ahove-mentionetl mark on till within half a mile of the Shark reefs, when liani more to the eastward for the West extreme of N'ar^'as island, which tnay he rounded at a distance of '.\ cables. If jioinj; on through llecaic pas «i),'e (^pa^'c '.VXt) itUo Hecate hay, to clear Malf-tide i<ick keep ilohhs islet open \v«8t of Ittir^'est) ish't l)t>arin^ S. by W. j \V. until the Twins coiuo in line with the west Whaler island hearinjr W . by S.. \vh**n steor up the passage with that mark on astern, which will hiid north of lialf-tidu rock and south of the North hank. When past the latter, steer lhroiif,'h Deep pass, and aiu'hor in Hecate hay mid\fay Ix-tween its entrance points in !• or l<t fathoms. During' heavy south-westerly ;.'ide.s iIh- st-a is siid to break rij,'ht across Ship channel, between hawrence and Hobbs islamlK. Caution. — .\lthou;,'h there aif >everal apparently deep channels itito ('layo<|iiol soninl, they arc. with tl xception of Ship( hannel, so tortuous and filled with roeks, that n;> stranger should attempt to enter b,\ any except the latter, and not b\ it unless h.ivin;.' the latest .\i|inii*alt\ chart of the .Kound if the weather be clear, it will lie easy to '•eco;,'nise Ship channel, bin if in doubt, there will he littl«f ditliciilty found iti proeiirin;; a native oil' the entrance of siinicient intelli^'ence to pilot a \esstd in. Intendiiii; to navitrate the inner u ai<rs of tin >oinid. which can only bo done by a steamer or small craft, (be cliari will be found the bcHt jruide. SYDNEY INLET, westward <.f ClaviMmot sound, is 1(» niiles lonj,' in a N.N.W. dir»'ctioii. an<l varies in breatltli from a half to one mile. Its entrance is 'M, miles X.W. by N. from Uafael point, between the west side of Klores island and the mainland of Vancouver : al 4 inileR from the head are two sinall branches about .■<" clmrl. No. .'St. " X. Virw !• nil Ailinii'Mltr ohnri, .No, .">»«4, im VANnnVKK IHI.WK. VTKsr roAKT. [('h;i|i. VIM. ^1*^ ".' iniirs ill li'iiiftli, one i-xtfiidinu' imrili ihf otluT Houth-wrst ; tln' Hh«»ruH iirt' liiKli iukI rii>;^rfil, rirtiiiu ahniptly from iIm' hi'u lo !i,(KK> and '.\,(HH) fi>t>(. Tlw ih-pth in iUv vuivunw in l.'i t'litlioiiiH, incr«Miriiiik' f^rudiially tnwanlH thi' Im'uiI. Refug'e cove, junt wrHt of sharp piiiiu, and H<>piirat«'d t'ntiii Sydiii-y iiih't hy a luirrow pniitisiila, oxtfiids I.', inilcrt in a N.N.W. dinclitiii, iw Inun one to :.' calilcH wide, and all'ordH j,'ood anrliora;.;)* in t in .'» raihoniHal half a iiiili* witliiii the t-nlrancf, well Hlicltfri'd and H)<<-iiri> froiii all winds, llloll^|| a|tparonily oprii to Ihc K.S.K.» Tint riitranre in narrow, and .it 2 ritltlfs iiiMid*- Sharp point and aitoiit oiitt (■al>lu Iroiii tlio lUHlrrn Hhor*> is a rock having' only '.' fwi on it at low wal«-r. 'I'liin lock licH Hli^'lillY raslward of the t'aii\va,\, 1)111 a f^'ood luok out is n*-«'crtsary, us it is not always inark)Ml liy ktdp. CanOO roef, lyin^' just somh-wcst I'roin the fiitran*-*' and thri-*-- (juartffs of a inih- S.NV. I»y W. from Sharp poiut, is 'I fcul above iiip;h water, Init stt-rp-to on tin' south and west sides. Directions. — Knit-rin^' Uifnijf (ovf from st-awmd, l)riii>f tlm t'litraiH-t' or Sharp point to lit-ar N.N.W. J, VV., and sl«'i'r for it, so as to pass OIK- cahli' West of thf point : ihtn k>'*'p in mid-* haniD-l, or rather nearer the western slmre, tit a\oid the '.* feit rotk, having passed which keep close to the eastern shore and anchor in t,> or .'• fathoiiiH, ahoni 7 or S cables within tin- entrance. A sailin^j-vessel, if einliayed near this part of the ctiasi, would lind saft'ty and shelter in lUdu^^e «"ove. Shelter arm lu-anches otr from the east side of Sydney inlet N.K., alon^' the north side of Klores island for ( miles, and then N.K. hy N. for nearl\ the same <listancc, terminatiiif,' in a narrow cr«M-k at the lieud. The shores of Shelter arm are higli, prt-cipitous, and stee|»to ; thff tidal Htreams run from one to *.' knots throii)r|i it, the tinod stream from the west wanl. Steamei- cove is the only anchnra^^e i inditVerent ) in it, just .' miles within the entrance on the north side of l*'lorus island ; it is a small lii^'ht w lierc a vessel may anchor in 17 to P.* fathoms, passinu on either side of the islet at its untraii.**. Uocky pass is narrow, alioiit 1 .-{ miles lon^, in an cast and west direction, l)ut tilled with rocks, so that no vessel could kuI throu^'h it; the tide runs irregularly throii^di, hut seldom exceeds 4 knots. iSrc chHrt. No. .'isl. Sii pinii i>( !{• lu(;<' co\o till A(liiiirnli.> elinii. No. .i'*! ; -caU-, m s= .Itiinchi- I .\u CHAITKU IX. WEST COAST OF VANCOUVER ISLAND, FROM CLAYOQUOT SOUND TO CAPE SCOTT. Vakiatiox, '2\ :'.(> K. Ill LS'.ts. HESQUIAT HARBOUR, s milcH wt-Hiwaitl i.f th<> w.-st pun nl' ('ln\iH|iiiii siiiiiiil, is litniic'l :ii tin- Ixittnin (»!' llic l>;i\ on ilif cast diilt* • >r Ksli'vaii poiin. It is I iiiiifs loii;^ in a N.N.W. iliiMtrtion, ami iipwanlH of '2 iiiilfs wiiit* at tlu* (tiitraiuf, opi-iiiim out a lillli- iiiriiilt>, liilt on Hearing the Inail ii coiiti-.icis to li-ss tliar. mih* iiiij*-. Tlir (icptliH within the liarliniir vary fntni t tn S fatlinins, aiiti th(«r«« Ih ii ^(lod an<l Hrciir*' ancli<tra^M> in 7 or S tatlioniH at half a mile from tli«' hi'atl." llt'siiuiiit IK a Utrnv Imlian \illa);c, ami has a Uoiiiaii ('alhnlic mission fslahlishnifnt. 'I'lic store is alMuil oim* iiiih- iiorthwanl ol tin- viihiK'' "II tlif wcsd'in slioH'. TIh' am'lioi-a|i4<< nm'il liy the si-aitTs is oil thr stoi-f, oil till- villa^'c it is too rockv. The bar. — Aciuss lin- inliiiiio-. ImIucih IliMjiiiai liiiill ami Ksloviin point, is a l>ar or Ii'iIri', ahoiii '.\ c-abh's witlc, with from '.\ to ') fathoms water over it, which in a urt-M ineasiin' prevents the sea from Sill ill',' home into the hirli.tiir. Kelp jfrows more or less all over the aiiehorau'*' in :> ileptli of '> fathoms. Hesqulat bluff is a i«iiiarkai)le, low, wood.il point, wilii a shin^'le heaeli ai'onml it ; a reef, which eo\ersal a i|iiart< r llooil, lies half a mile S.W. from it. The shores of the harlioiir are mostly low ami v.ooileil, ami within the entraime, at a distance of *i cahU-H, eh?ar of <liiiiK<'r. On the west Hlih' of the hay near Ksti-vaii point are several imliciitions of coal, ami the lami is a|)parently fertile. • Srr AMiniraliy chart :—l')H|M>riin/u In fliiviH(Ujt rMiiiiid, Nti. .'iH'.i ; miuU;. «( = (••,( 'if All iiu'li. AImi, |ilnn <<| ||rM|uiul Iiiii'Ikmii' om suih' rliurt ; xcftlc. ni = I'.'i iiiuliCK. ^. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET {MT-3) k / A f/. f/. ^ ^ 1.0 I.I 11.25 IfriM IIM IJ^IIIM 1^ ^ IIIIIM 1.8 U III.6 Photographic Sciences Corporation -.i.r WEST MAIN STREET »MEBSrEt<,N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 4, V iV "V "^^^^ "^^ ^4^f^ m ) <r ... 4l^ <? i/j MA VAN(MH'VKH l.SliAND, WRST ("OAST. [("ha|.. I\. Boat basin is a suiall covh with -1 fathoms at tiio head of UeHquiat liarboiir (»ii thi' tMst sido : thoiv in a lar^'f fresh-water stream there, and vesselH u'av obtain wood and w.iter with great facility. ; I [ Directions. — Hestjuiat harbour is easy of access to sailiufj-vessels, even with a foul wind. The notch of Leading mountain in line witii East Entrance i)oint (not Hesquiat i^luff), bearing N.X.W., leads over the l)ar in 4.\ fathoms at low water. Knterin<,' either from the east or west yive the outer shores of the harbour a berth of more than half a mile, till past the bar ; anchor in 7 or 8 fathoms near the centre of the harbour, about half a mile from its head. In strong south or nouth-westerly gales the sea breaks heavily over the bar, but the anchorage is ahvays safe, and landing is at all times practicable in Boat basin. Tides. — It is liigh water, full and change, in Hesquiat harbour at noon ; springs rise 12 feet. ESTEVAN POINT, li) miles W. :^ N. from Rafael point, is a low, wooded and projecting point, bordered by a sandy beach, strewed with huge boulders. A ledge extends nearly one mile oil its south- west side. Hole in the Wall, the houth part of the point, may In- easily known by a remarkable gap in the trees at its extreme, which is conspicuous from the south-west. When rounding the west part of Estevan point, it would not lie prudent to approach the shore within 2 miles. From this point the coast takes a N.N.W. direction for 8 miles to Escalante point at the entrance of Nootka sound, and is low, foul ground existing off it for some distance. Estevan point is situated in latitude 45)^ :i'2' N., longitude 12G° 32' W. Sunday rock lies Ij miles distant from the shore, and nearly ',\ miles W. } N. frojn Hole in the Wall, the i)ilch of the point ; within the ledge good shelter will be found for boats in all weathers. NOOTKA SOUND, called King (ieorge sound by the celebrated navigator. Captain James Cook, in 1778, was of considerable political importance in former years, is a large sheet of water upwards of .Vr chart. No. M9. Chap. IX.] li.STKVAN roiNT. — NOUTKA .SOI'ND. .'Uf) ri miles in extent, containiuj^ several islands, and from its north side three narrow arms [)enetrate tiic land for distances of IS, 7, and 14 miles respectively. Its entrance is 5 miles wide between Maqiiinna and Escalante i)oints, which bear \V. by N. and E. by S. from each other ; at the entrance the shores are low, and have several oil-lying dangers, but inside the sound they i)ecome high, rugged, and precipitous.* In fine weather, tlu^ natives will be met with in canoes, in con- siderable numbers on the banks, Hshing for halil)ut, which are very i)lentiful along this coast. There are four anchorages in the sounti, two of which. Friendly cove and Plumper harbour on the east siile of Nootka island, are small though easy of acct;ss to steam-vessels ; the formei' is one, and the latter 7 miles within tiu' entrance : the others in the Tlupana arm, though well sheltered, are more inconvenient, being 13 and 16 miles from the entrance. Aspect. — From seaward the appearance of the land near the entrance of the sound offers to the navigator many striking features which in fine weather render it almost impossible to he mistaken ; the low land of Kstevan and Maquinna points at the entrance, with the breakers oH' them, the Xootka cone at the east point of Nootka island, and if coming from the South or S.S.W., Conuma peak, a remarkable steeple-shaped mountain, 4,8(S1» feet high (page !Ui)), is a mo.1t conspicuous feature. Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in Nootka sound, at noon, and the rise and fall is about 12 feet ; the tidal streams are everywhere inconsiderable. Escalante point, the eastern entrance point of the sound, is low and rocky ; some s-nall islets, and rocks generally above high water, extend oh' it in a westerly direction for upwards of one mile, but they are steep-to on their outer edge. At their outer end is a rock only uitcovering at low water. From Escalante i)oint to Hurilwood point at the narrowest part of entrance on the east side, the coast, which still keeps a N.N.W. direction for 3 miles, is bordered by several otf-lying rocks, and should not be approached within one mile until close to the latter point. * .Ute Admiralty pltiii :— Nooika .■iouiirl. No. l.lMf. ; i»calf. m = I'u incheii. 1'! :u(i VAKConVEIl ISLAND, WKST COAST. [Cllilp. IX. I <; Maquiniia point, the went ('Utmnce point of the sound, is low and wooded, and at its extreme is a remarkable burt'-topi)ed conical rock about (50 or 70 feet hi??h ; some rocks extend 15 cables ott" it in an easterly (' irection, aL«o alonj,' the coast from it to the tsastward nearly as far as the entrance of Friendly cove, and the shore should not be a])))roached near«'r than three-quarters of u mile, till near the latter place. Bajo reef, *! miles S.W. by W. I W. from Maijuinua point and 2f miles distant from the shore, is about '2 cables in extent, and the sea only l)reaks on it in heavy Aveather. This reef is the only known hidden danger outside the sound, and is dangerous to vessels enteringjit from the westward. Yuquot point, the east extreme of Nootka island, kept open east of Maquinna point, bearing N.E. } E., leads U miles south-east of it ; and Bight cone (a remarkable hill on the south side of Nootka island) kept well open west of Bajo point bearing N. by W., leads 1| miles west of the reef. FRIENDLY COVE, at the east extreme of Nootka island, just within the narrowest part of the entrance to the sound and about 2i miles north-east of Maquimia point, is al)out 2 cables in extent and sheltered from the sea by several small rocky islets on its south- east side. The entrance, one cable wide, is from the north-east. The shores on both sides of the cove are rocky and about (50 feel high on the north side, but at the head is a small space of clear, cultivated flat land, around which in the summer the natives build au (>xtensive village (Yuquot). There is a store at the northern end of the village.'* Anchoragre in Friendly cove, in from r> to fathoms, is (»f small extent, aflording oidy room for one vessel of tnoderate size to li(^ moored in the middle, though several small ones would find shelter Directions. — If ilesiring to anchor in Friendly cove, round Observation islet, the east entrance point, close to, and if in a large vessel moor with anchors S.S.W. and N.N.E., letting go the first immediately on entering the cove. Sailing-vessels, unless with a fair wind, would find some ditficulty in entering ; and if unable to shoot in, it would be preferable to warp or i)roceed further up the sound to Plumper harbour. iVr plan of Friendly cove on Admirnliv chart. No. MMfi : scale, w = II '8 inchrs un HggjBuy rhap. IX.] XOOTKA SOUXl). PLUMI'KH HARBOUR. Mi Supplies. — Fresh water in nuaixtity cannot Ije procur**! at Frien«lly cove, or nearer than Marvinas baj' ; but fish an<I «l«-<«-r mar generally be obtained in large quantities from the native*. Marvinas bay. — The west shore of Nootkasoun<l from Fri«-ndly cove trends in a X.N.W. direetion for about (1 miles to the em ranee of the Keudrick ar:\ and Tahsis canal ; it is rocky, and near the s»>nth l»art some islets lie parallel to it, extending for nearly 2 milt-*, distant about '.\ cables from the short'. There are two small crvvks with entrances too narrow for a vessel to enter : the northernmo?! of th»>m nameil by the Spaniards BoCii del Infiei-no, lies abreast the VK^nh part of the above-mentioned islands, and 1 } miles from Friea«lly cove. Marvinas bay, 4 miles N.N.W. from Frientlly cove, on the ea<i side of Xootka island, is of small extent and open to the souihwarvl ; it only atFords anchorage to a coaster. Water. — There are large fresh-water streams at the head ♦>f Marvinas bay, and just south of it, convenient for watering. Kendrick arm, at the west end of Xootka sound l»etw«-fn N»»>iki>. and Narrow islands, is about .') miles long in a uunh-wo^^ifriy direction, and half a mile wide, connected at the north part by a luirrow boat pass to the Tahsis canal ; on the west side, 2 mil«? fri>m itj5 south i«rt, is Plumper harbour, easy of access, and well «h<elier»>l. Northward of this harbour the shores of the arm on V^oih <idt* aiv rocky, terminating in two narrow creeks at the head, u»el<t-»ss. for purposes of navigation. PLUMPER HARBOUR, on the west side of Kemlrick arm, and G miles from Friendly cove, ifa a small bay indenting the east side of Nootka island, about .'5 cables in extent and affnrJiniir gooil anchorage in 12 fathoms. It is protected on the east side by two small wooded islets from 'M) to 40 feet high ; on the west side the shore is rather swampy, and there are several fresh-wau-r streams. Anchoragre. — Tiiere is a clear i)assage into the harlxiur between the two islets, or to the northward of the north one, which may !)e rounded at the distance of one cable, and there is mo'ii for a vessel to lie at single anchor inside ; it is the best anchonig.^ in the sound, the only drawback being its distance from the entrance. Tahsis canal, the entrance to which is at the north-we#t |«r4 of Nootka sound, about 6 miles from Friendly cove, is a long narrow .*vv chiut. Xo. l,;il(j. It 1 :i; il :i48 VA^fCorVKR ISLAM), WKST COAST. [Chaii. Ik. arm of th*- s>««. m^irly rttraii,'lit, mid 11 miles loiifr in a X.NV. In i^. direc-ti<tu : iht *hr>r*f!4 arf- monntaiiiout?, lot-ky, ami steej) to, auii tb^'r*' is no am'b<>raiffitr in it. In many parts this canal is only '2 cabl^'f- wide, but it J*t*«>m*» j^radually liruaiU'r at the lu-ad, where i^ a lar4re stream, and aL^jia consideruMe villa^^e, to which the nativeK rewort during' the !>aium»rr nt;a.son for salmon, which are caiij,'ht here in ^^reat plentv. At ]<>[, miJ'e* from i:he entrance of the canal <tn the west side, and separating lli^e n»>rth point of Nootka island from the main uf Vancouver i>ibn'l. are the T;'.hsis narrows, one cable wide, witlj 2^} fathoms m Ae »:eutre ; they c(»nnect Esi)eranza inlet with the Tahsis canal : nhe iLdai streams run weakly through them, the flood from the wesatwanl. At tljH <ntr<iiii(Cie(^lf Tahsis canal is a small island with a defir jiaBsaffe about one eablie wfile on both sides of it. Bligrh island. lyinsr in the centre of Nootka sound, is the lartrent island in it. l-^ie^^ abonr 4^ miles long in a northerly direction, and 2 miles wi(le ii. ihi^ northern part ; its shores are rocky, and indented by creeks on ih*- ■(♦•rathern side. Its south extreme is a long ir. tto-u point about ^I mifiw* north-^-ast of the entrance to the sound, and off its south and wetn siden are a number of islands extending uj»Avard»; of one mile frotm it, all steep-to on their outer edges, but amonjr which no ve*^l *h»>ald venture. The south part of the i.sland it rather low, bai di rii.-»es in the north and west parts to l,U3n and l,20<t feet. Resolution c-ovur. m the aouth-east point of this island, just within the entrance of ahe Zrieiarre channel, is only deserving of notice ah the spot where Cai|>tdin Cook refitted his ships in Vpril 177S : it is only a slight Wmll in che coast, with a deep and rocky b<»ttotn. an<l inconvenient for aiii».-ht>rd£re. being also op«n to the south-west. Junction island, lying about mid'^vay between the soutb-«asi point of N'arrvw L:^Eand and west siile of lUigh island, is about half a mile lonir aui*! '2'A> feet high : a small islet lies close otT it*; north-west side anJ another on the opposite side. The channel lies to th« west and ntrrth of .lunction island, and no vessel should pass between th^e laiser -uid Bligh island. Zuciarte channel, between the east shore of Nootka sound and Bligh iHland,ii9aiiioot 't mites long in a northerly direction, and upwardt^ Vr chart. Xo. 191 n. 1 Chap. IX.] NOOTKA SOCND.— TK[,UI'A\.\ ARM. ;')iy of half a mile wi.le in tlif narrowest part; its shores are liigh, au<l the depths within tht.- channel varying from S(^ to lOO fathoms. Guaquina, or Muclialat arm, extends 17 miles in an E.N.E. direction from the north-east part of Xootka sound, and varies in breadth from a quarter to ui)ward8 of one mile. It is bouniled on both sides by mountains from 2,<>fH» to 4,(»0() feet hiph, and presents simihii- features to the inlets before described alont,' this coast, terminatiii^' in low land at the head, throu;/li which a small stream flows into the inlet : there is no anchorage whatever within this arm except foi- coasters. One and a half miles within the entrance is Gore island, which is narrow, and ab(»ut 'A miles loni,', in an K.X.K. direction : thei'e is a clear, deej) passage on i-itht-r side of it, the soutiiern one being less thiui one cable wide at the east part, Tlie laiul rises in the centre to 1,2<>(> feet. slo](iiig gradually to each end ; its shores are rocky. On ihe north side of this ai-m, 14 miles within th«' entrance, is an extensive valley, through which flows a large stream, named the (rold river, indications of that metal having been ilisco\ered there ; the land in the vicinity of tiiis stream is lightly timbered and very fertile ; a small vessel may enter it at high water. The Muchalat Indians have a village at the mouth of Gold river. TLUPANA ARM, the entrance to which is in the north part of Xootka sound, is altout 7 miles long in a northerly direction, branch- ing off at the head in two smaller arms extending to the tiorth-west and north-east, the former about A miles, the latter 2 miles long, and each terminating in low land. Its shores are high and rocky, and the depths in it vary from S(l to 1U(I fathoms ; there are two anchorages one at Deserted creek on tiie west side, and the other at Head bay. the termination of the north-west branch. The mountains at the north part of this arm are the highest in the sound, many being from 4,00(J to ."),000 feet above the sea: Conuma peak, rising 7 miles north-east from the head, is 4,889 feet high, and of a steeple shape. Deserted creek, on the west side of the arm 3 miles within the entrance, is 2 miles long in a v>esterly direction and about 2 or 3 cables wide ; a vessel may anchor in 12 to 14 fathoms at one third of a mile from its head. Island bay, a small cove on its north-east See chart. No. I.yi6, :m VAXCOT'VKU laiiANI), WKST COAST. [Chap. IX. * ■ 1 ' Hide, just within the entranct', hiiH an islet in tlie centre, to the westward of which is room for a vessel to anchor in 12 fathoms. At the southern extreme of the promontory separating' the two branches at tlie head of Tlupana arm is Perpendicular bluff, a remarkable precipice of considerable heiiifht. Head bay, the termination of the western branch of the Tlupana arm, ir, nearly one mile lonp in a westerly direction, a))Out 4 cables wide, and affords anchorafje in from M to 1(1 fathoms at the tlistance of ;i or 4 cables from its head. .\t the entrance on the north side are three small islets about ',) or 4 feet above hij,di water, the inner one connected to the shore by a beach at low water ; l)etween these islets and Perpendicular bluff is a small bay, where a vessel may anchor in from It) to 18 fathoms. Directions. — Entering Nootka sound from the southward, after rounding' Kstevan point steer about N.N.W. for the entrance, which will be easily made out by the rocks off Escalante and Maquinna points ; keep about 2 miles off the eastern shore till })ast Escalante point, when steer up mid-channel into the sound. If bound to Friendly cove haul over to the west side of entrance for Yuquot point, which may be approached within a distance of one cable, and rounding it sharply, anchor or moor, as most convenient, in Friendly cove in from .5 to 1^ fathoms. If bound to Plumper harbour, after passing Yuquot point keep about half a mile from the north-east side of Nootka island, on a N.N.W. or N. by W, course for .5 miles to the entrance of the Kendrick arm, when steer up the latter in mid-channtd till abreast Plumper harbour, which may be entered by passing between Bold and Pass islets on its east side, or going to the northward of the former ; anchor in 11 to 12 fathoms near the centre of the harbour. Should it be desired to anchor in any of the anchorages within the Tlupana arm, steer as before directed till within half a mile of the entrance to the Kendrick arm, when haul to the north-east, p?"s to the westward of Junction and Bligh islands, and steer up the Tlupana arm, in mid-channel, or close to on either shore. Deserted creek and Head bay may be entered without difficulty. Entering Nootka sound from the westward, on nearing Bajo })oint do not approach the south shore of Nootka island within 4 miles, or shut in Bight cone with Bajo point bearing N. by W., until Yuciuot I See chart, No. l,ni«. Cluip. IX.] XOOTKA SOL'ND, IMRKCTIONS. ',\b\ point opt'118 eaHt of Maqiiinnii poiut bearing N.K. J E., which will clear the IJajo reef ; a veesei may then steer for the entrance of the sound, about N.E. by K., not ai)proachin;^' the shore betwei n Maquinna and Yuquot points nearer than one mile, until abreast the latter, after which proceed up the sound as before directed. If beatinpr into Nootka sound, when standing' to tlie westward, kecj) Yuqnot jjoint o])en east of Ma(|uinna point bearing,' N.E. ] K., which will keep a vessel well clear to tlie eastward of I'.ajo reef ; in standing,' to the eastward do not approacti Kscalanti' i)oint within U miles, nor Itrin;^ Burdwood ])oint to liear northward of X. by K. until abreast it, when standinj,' towards Matpiinnu anil Vu(|U'tt points on the west side, avoid brin^Mnf: the latter to bear to the eastward of N.N.E. until abreast it. Nootka sound is easier of access than any other place on the whole of the t est coast of Vancouver island, the entrance bein^' nearly 'i miles wide in ihe narrowest part ; and by attendinj,' to the above directions any sailintr-vessel may beat in or out of the sound. If, and provided with a chart, the nifjht be clear, it may be entered withoui .isk by bringing the entrance to bear N.N. E., and in a steamer but little difliculty would be experienced in picking' up the anchorages of Friendly cove and Plumper harbour. NOOTKA ISLAND, which bounds the west side of Nootka sound, is of considerable extent, being 1,') miles long in a northerly and 20 miles iii a westerly direction. Its south, or outer shore is low, rising gradually inland 1,.')00 and 2,900 feet above the sea, and has a beautiful and fertile appearance ; it is bordered by a sandy beach nearly the whole distance, and the sea breaks heavily along it.* Bajo point, (J miles west from Maquinna point, is low and rocky. A ledge named the Inner Bajo reef extends l;f miles from it in a southerly direction; and the Bajo reef (sre page ;J4(I) lies 2| miles S.S.E. from it. Westward of Bajo point the coast takes a W.N.W. direction for 10 miles to Ferrer point, and is slightly indented. Bight cone, a remarkable summit, .o40 feet high, rises 3 miles N.N.W. ^ W. from Bajo point, and is about one mile inland. When navigating along the south side of Nootka island west of the Bajo reef, it would not be prudent to approach the shore within tS<-c chart. No. M-'J. VAN('0|TVK|{ ISLAM). W KST COAST [Cliai.. IX. r ,E' 2 niilt.'s, until near Fci-n-r iioint, ihoni,'li tlinrc an' tut known oiitlyinj,' (langerH. NUCHATLITZ INLET, on tlie north-west wide of Nootka islimd, about IS miles \V. liy N. i'roin tin- cntriinco to Xootka sound, is f'l miles lon^' in a north-eastei-ly direction, and 3 miles wide at entrance, narrow intr towards the head ; its shon'S are hitrh and roeky, and nniih Itroken into ei'eeks and small i»ays ; oM' the eniranee, and wilhiii are several dan;,M'rs. The depths in the inlet vary from .'» to 17 fathon»s, and there are two i,'(»od anchoi'a},'t's, port han{,'t"ortl <)n the north side, and Mary basin at the head ; but owinjjr to the dangers oil" the entrance of the iiUet, ihey are both rather- dillii iilt of accesa. * - Caution. — None but small vessels should attempt to beat into this inlet, as there is jfenerally a heavy sea at the entrance, and no 8tran;,'er should attem))t to enter ludess the leading,' mark is easily distinguished. Ferrer point, the south entrance jioint of the inlet, is low and rocky ; thei-e is a dei)th of II fathoms at "i cal)les from ii, ami half a mile eastward of the ])oint is North-west cone, a very remarkable conical hill '^hO feet high, which proves a very useful guide to this locality from the westward. Danger rock, lying in the south part of the entrance, upwards of one mile N.W. ^ W. from Ferrer point, is the worst danger, as it is of very small extent, and the sea only breaks on it in heavy weather ; it is steeji-to on all sides, there being IJ fathoms close to it. The ])est passage into the inlet is between this rock and Ferrer point. Mark hill, at the head of inlet, in line witli the north part of Fitz island, bearing N.H J, F., leads south of this rock midway between it arid Ferrer point, and through the fairway into the inlet, Nuchatlitz reef, in the centre of the entrance and one-third of a mile north of Danger rock, is about three-quarters of a mile long in an E.N.F. and W.S.W. direction, and one cable wide. The sea generally breaks on this reef, and at its eastern extremity is a small rock awash at high water ; there is a passage between it and Danger >*ock, and also apparently northwaril of it, but neither should be attempted by a stranger, as no leading marks can be given for them. * iSei- Admiralty plan: — Esperanza ami Xiiuharlits; inlets. No, 5Ha; scale m:=2'0 inches. Chap. IX.] NUCIIATLITZ INLET. 353 South reef, nearly 2 cables in extent and covering at three- quarters flood, lies just within the entrance on the south side, one mile N.E. by N. from Ferrer point, and about 3 cables distant from the shore. Mark hill, in line with the north summit of Fitz island, bearing N.E. ^ E., leads 2 cables north of this reef. Louie creek, just inside South reef, is shoal, and nearly one mile in extent ; there are several rocks oil' its (entrance, and no vessel should enter it : to the eastward of the creek the south shore of Nuchatlitz inlet is rocky. Fitz island, in the centre of the inlet, and 3 miles from the entrance, is of small extent, low, rugged, and covered with a few stunted pine trees, the tops of which are about 100 feet above the sea. At half a mile West of it is Bar island, small and 20 feet high ; between the rock and Fitz island foul ground exists. Hare rock, of small extent, and 12 feet above high water, lies three-quarters of a mile S.W. of Fitz island. Mary basin, the termination of the inlet, is of considerable extent, and completely landlocked by Lord island, which lies across the inlet at the south-west i)art of the basir The depths ijisiiU; the basin vary from 5 to 9 fathoms, and the entrance on the north side of Lord island appears clear of danger, but it has not been sufficiently examined to recommend its being used V)y a stranger. Eastward of Mary basin, and connected to it by a narrow pass 50 yards wide, with from 7 to 9 athoms, is Inner basin, a sheet of water upwards of 3 miles long in ti.: easterly direction, with from 20 to 39 fathoms, and apparently useless as an anchorage. Port Langford, on the north side of Nuchatlitz inlet, 2 miles within the entrance, is about 1| miles long in a north-westerly direction, and varies in breadth from a quarter to half a mile. The depths in it vary from 5 to 8 fathoms, and it affords a secure and well-sheltered anchorage in about (5 fathoms, muddy bottom, at half a mile from the head. The east shore of the port is high, rising to Mt. Rosa 2,553 feet above high water, but the western shore is much lower ; both are rocky. Colwood islet, at the south-west extreme of the entrance, is email, and bare, 20 feet high, and nearly half a mile off shore ; See chart, No. 689. SO 11948 354 VANCOUVETl ISLAND, WRflT COAST. [Chap. IX. ' I I- I ;!; *r i' iM inside it, and to tlio westward round tho nortli entrance point of Nucliiitlitz inlet, are innumerable rockH antl small islets, among which no vessel should venture. Helmont point, the east entrance point into port Langford, is two-thirds of a mile N.K. \ K. from Colwood islet ; it is low, and a rock uncovers at one cable west of it. Directions. — Kutering Nuchatlitz inlet from the southward bring Ferrer point on a N. by W. bearing, and steer to pass half a mile west of it ; and when Mark hill comes in line with the north part of Fitz island N.E. ^ E., haul in for the entrance on that mark, which will lead in clear of Danger rock and South reef. When Ferrer point bears South, a vessel will be inside the rock, and may steer N.N.E. for the entrance to port Langford ; pass midway between Colwood islet and Belmont point, and proceed up the port in mid- channel, anchoring in ") or 6 fathoms, at half a mile from the head. Approaching the port from the westward, keep an oiling of 4 or 5 miles till Ferrer point bears East, when steer for it on that bearing till the leading mark for the channel (Mark hill in line with the north part of Fitz island N.E. § E.) comes on, when proceed as before directed to the anchorage in port Langford. Intending to enter Mary basin (which is not however recom- mended), when pt'.st Ferrer point keep the leading mark on till abreast Louie creek, then steer a little to the eastward, passing about one cable south of Fitz island and Bare rock (south-west of it) ; when past the former steer N.E. by E. ^ E. until the west point of Lord island bears N. by E., which will clear the shoal extending half a mile to the southward from Benson point, and then, on approaching Lord island, borrow a little towards the north shore and enter Mary basin to the westw.i.rd of the island and the small islet north-west of it ; when abreast the latter haul more to the eastward and anchor in from 5 to 6 fathoms near the middle of the basin. Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in Nuchatlitz inlet at noon ; springs rise about 12 feet. ESPERANZA INLET, the entrance to which lies between the north-west side of Nootka island and the main land of Vancouver island, 122 miles W. by N. | N. from the lighthouse on Tatoosh island, is about 16 miles long in a winding north-easterly direction. See chart, No. 589. ill Chap. IX.] NUCFIATLITZ INLKT.— KSPRRANZA INLET. ass with an avera^^o breadth of about one mile, narrowing: at the heafl, and ooniiPctcd by a narrow jnisfl (TahsiH narrows) to tho Tahsis canal in Nootka sound.* The entrance, thou<?li wide, contains several danporH ; inside the shores rise on both sides to mountains of consideral)le heiEfht. The southern shore is indented by three bays of moderate extent, which, however, afl'ord no anchoratife ; and from the northern one three arms of considerable len<?th penetrate the Vancouver shore for several miles in a N.X.W. direction. I'ort Kliza, in th(^ western arm, has tho only anchorage in tho inlot. Middle channel, the widest and best into Esperanza inlet, is 3 miles long in a northerly direction, and njjwards of one mile wide in the narrowest i)art. Its entrance lies '.\ miles W.N.W. from Ferrer ])oint, between Hlind reef. Needle rock, and a number of small islets extending off the north-wesL j)oint of Nootka island on the east, and Middle reef and Black rock on liie west ; a part of the former is always above water. Blind reef, at the south-east ext, .ue of the channel, :{ miles \ Ti'. ^ W. from Ferrer point, is abcut 2 cables iu extent, and the sea only breaks on it in bad weather; one cable Nortli of it is a small rock, and at a distance of 2 cables from its south and west sid*. a are depths of 13 to 19 fathoms^ Pin rock, of small extent, awash at low water, lies two-thirds of a mile East from J51ind reef. Needle rock, which is of small extent, lies two-thirds of a mile North of the Blind reef, and has from 14 to lo fathoms at 2 cables west of it. Middle reef, at the south-west entrance point of Middle channel, is about 3 cables long in a northerly directiim, and one cable wide. The sea generally breaks on this reef, and at its south extreme is a small rock 4 feet above high water ; there are from .'> to 20 fathoms at the distance of one cable on all sides of it ; its south part lies 4 miles N.W. by W. ^ W. from Ferrer point. lieading hill in line with Black rock bearing N. by W. leads through, the fairway of Middle channel two-thirds of a mile west of • iSee Admiralty plan : — Esperanza and Nuchatlitz inlets No. 589 ; scale, w=2 o inches. SO 11948 Z 356 VANCOUVER ISLAND, WEST COAST. [Chap. IX. »; I 1 i Blind reef, one mile west of Needle rock, and half a mile east of Middle reef. North channel leads into Esperanza inlet west of Middle reef, between it and the dangers off the south-east point of Catala island. It is about ore-third of a mile wide, and upwaMs of 2 miles long. Black rock in line with Double island bearing N. by E. ^ E. leads in through the fairway of North channel clear of Middle reef. CATALA ISLAND, 5^ miles N.W. | W. from Ferrer point, on the west side of the entrance to Esperanza inlet, is about 1| miles long in a westerly direction, and one mile wide in its broadest part. It is wooded and from 150 to 200 feet high, its shores are rocky, and several dangers exist at a considerable distance off it on all sides ; its north side is separated from the Vancouver shore by a passage half a mile wide, named Rolling roadstead, and a vessel may find a tolerably secure anchorage there in from 4 to 6 fathoms, though generally a swell prevails in it. The Twins, two small islets connected with each other at low water, lie off the south jioint of Catala island, and foul ground extends nearly 1^ miles south from them, terminating in Low rock 6 feet above high water. Black rock, which lies 4 cables S.E. from the east point of Catala, is a small bare rock 20 feet above high water ; foul ground exists between it and Catala, and also one cable south of it ; do not approach its eastern side nearer than 2 cables, nor attempt to pass westward of it. Entrance reef, about 3 cables north of the east point of Catala island at the eastern part of Rolling roadstead, is of small extent, and covers at half flood. Arnold rock, half a mile north from Entrance reef, and about 2 cables distant from the opposite shore, is awash at high water ; midway between these rocks are 6^ fathoms, and in the roadstead from 4 to 6 fathoms. The outer rocks off the north-west part of Catala island, open north of the low grassy point at the north side of the latter, bearing W. by S., leads into Rolling roadstead, midway between the Arnold rock and Entrance reef. See chart, No. 589. Chap. IX.] ESPBRANZA INLET, PORT ELIZA. 357 Half a mile inshore, and overlooking the north-east part of Rolling roadstead, is Leading hill, 1,104 feet above the sea ; it is of conical shape, and conspicuous from the entrance to Middle channel. Double island lies half a mile from the west shore at the inner and narrowest part of the entrance to Esperanza inlet. It is of small extent, and wooded ; a number of rocks exist between it and the shore. Flower islet, on the opposite shore, one mile E.S.E, from Double island and half a mile from the north-west point of Nootka island, is small and bare, and is the northernmost of the islets off Nootka island between the entrances of Nuchatlitz and Esperanza inlets- At 2 cables S.W. from it is a small rock 2 feet above high water. Eastward of Elower islet the south shore of Esperanza inlet takes a winding irregular outline to the E.N.E., is everywhere steep-to ' and rises gradually to mountains 2,000 and 3,000 feet high. There are three bays, all too deep for anchorage ; in the western one, which is just within the entrance, are several small islets. Centre island, half a mile off the south shore, and about 1| miles north-east of Flower islet, is about three-quarters of a mile long in an east and west direction, and of moderate height ; its shores are rocky. Hecate channel, near the head of the inlet, is 4^ miles long in a winding direction to the eastward, and its average breadth is about 6 cables. The western end is 8 miles from the entrance of Esperanza inlet ; and the eastern (Tahsis narrows) is about one cable wide, with 28 fathoms, connecting this channel with the Tahsis canal in Nootka sound ; the shores are high and rocky. i. I PORT ELIZA, the entrance to which is on the north side of Esperanza inlet, one mile north-east of Double island, is a narrow arm 5^ miles long in a N.W. direction, its breadth varying from 2 to 4 cables ; the shores are high, and there are some rocks and email islands in the entrance, and along the eastern shore. There is good anchorage in from 14 to 15 fathoms at half a mile from the head, and also in Queen's cove, which is upwards of one mile within the entrance on the east side. 8ee chart, No. 589. I 358 VANCOUVER ISLAND, WEST COAST. [Chap. IX l!iH 1 The head terminates in a small patch of low swampy land, through which flow two fresh-water streams, and off it a bank dries one cable at low water. The passage into port Eliza is through Birthday channel, eastward of Harbour island, and is 2 cables wide in the narrowest part. Harbour island, in the centre of the entrance, is about 4 cables in extent, wooded, and of moderate height. Between Harbour island and the west shore lies False channel, which has irregular soundings, and in its south part are two rocks which cover at half flood. Fairway island, on th« east side of Birthday channel, and 4 cables east from Harbour island, is of small extent, and covered with a few stunted trees ; some rocks extend a short ilistance off around it, the eastern ones being about (j feet above high water. Channel reef, half a mile N.N.W. of Harbour island, in the middle of port Eliza, is about one cable in extent, and covers at three-quarters flood. Queen's cove, on the east side of the port, about Ih miles from the entrance, is 5 cables long, and 2 cables wide, but at the entrance the width is contracted to half a cable by a small island, which at low water is connected to the eastern side of the cove. The channel lies to the westward of the island.* The cove affords room for a large vessel to lie moored in the centre in from G to 7 fathoms. Its shores are high and rocky, and it is completely land-locked, but it is easy of access for a steamer ; a large sailing-vessel would, however, be most likely obliged to warp in ; there is a fresh- water stream of considerable size on the west side of its head, very convenient for watering. ESPINOSA ARM, the entrance to which is 2 miles north-east of port Eliza, is 8 miles long in a N.N.W. direction, and its average breadth is half a mile. The soundings within it are deep, and it affords no anchorage ; at the entrance, on the west side, are some small islets, and a rock which uncovers. This inlet presents similar xeatures to the oiher inlets along the coast, being bounded by high, rocky, rugged shores, and terminating in low land at the head. At 4 miles within the entrance, on the east side, is a narrow branch or * See plan of Queen's cove on Admiralty chart, No. 689 ; scale, in= 30 inches. I ^ Chap. IX,] ESPERANZA INLET, DIRECTIONS. 369 low lies fork extending 3 miles north-east to its head, which is separated by a narrow neck 3 cables wide from the Zeballos arm, forming a peninsula of considerable size to the southward. The entrance to this narrow branch is choked up with rocks. ZEBALLOL ARM, the entrance to which lies 10 miles within the inlet, at the west end of Hecate channel, is about 6 miles long in a winding direction to the north-west, and about two-thirds of a milo wide ; similar to Espinosa arm, it offers no anchorage whatever, and is of no use to the navigator. Directions. — A stranger entering Esperanza inlet from the south- ward, through the Middle channel, and intending to anchor in port Eliza, should pass Ferrer point at a distance of about 3 miles, and keep on a northerly course till nearing the entrance to Middle channel, when steer to bring Leading hill in line with Black rock bearing N. by W., which will lead through the fairway, and clear of the dangers on both sides of the channel. When the south point of Catala island bears W.N.W., a vessel will be inside the dangers at the entrance, and should steer about N.N.E. for the entrance to port Eliza. When entering the port steer through Birthday channel, passing one cable east of Harbour island ; when past the east point of the latter, keep about N.W. by N. for the entrance to Queen's cove, or further over to the eastern shore, to avoid Channel reef ; when entering the cove, pass west of the island at its entrance and moor. If going to the head of port Eliza, keep on as before directed till within one cable of Queen's cove, when haul sharply to the west- ward, keeping about one cable from the east shore, till Fairway island comes in line with the east point of Harbour island bearing S.E. by E., when the vessel will be past Channel reef, and may steer up the port in mid-channel, anchoring near the centre, about 4 or 5 cables from the head, in 15 or 16 fathoms. No large sailing-vessel should attempt to enter port Eliza unless with a steady fair wind. Entering Esperanza inlet from the westward, keep an oflBng of 2^ or 3 miles from Catala island (if Kyuquot hill be made out, by keeping it open west of Tat chu point N.W. by W., a vessel will be well clear of any dangers off Catala island), till Double island comes in line with Black rock bearing N. by E. | E., and enter the inlet See chart, No. 689. 360 VANCOUVER ISLAND, WEST COAST. [Chap, IX. i:i' through th« North channel with this mark on, which will lead in. When the Twins islets bear N.W. by W., haul more to the eastward, passing a quarter of a mile outside the Mid and Black rocks, and steer for port Eliza as before directed. If the weather be clear and the marks can be made out, both North and Middle channels are equally good, the latter being wide enough for a vessel to beat through, though it would be hazardous for a stranger to attempt, as no turning marks can be given. Generally a heavy swell prevails off the entrance to Nuchatlitz and Esperanza inlets, and no sailing-vessel should ai.empt to enter, or leave either of them, unless with a steady fair, or leading wind. Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in 7j]speranza inlet, at noon ; springs rise 12 feet. The COAST, westward of Catala island to Tat chu point, takes a westerly direction for upwards of 3 miles, is indented by two small sandy bays, and bordered by a number of rocks, some of which extend nearly 2 miles off shore. Tat chu point is cliffy ; some rocks lie a short distance to the southward of it, and there is a native village of considerable size at half a mile east of it. Eliza dome, a remarkable mountain, 2,819 feet above the sea, rises 1^ miles N.N, W. of the point, and is very conspicuous from seawai-d.* From Tat chu point tlir* coast turns W.N.W, for 7 miles to the entrance of Kyuquot sound, and is indented by several small bays, in some parts of which boats may find shelter. BARRIER ISLANDS.— At 2 miles westward of Tat chu point is the commencement of a chain of small islands and reefs bordering the coast of Vancouver island for nearly 20 miles in a westerly direction to the entrance of Ou ou kinsh inlet. They extend in some parts as far as 5 miles off shore, and through them are two kno"wn navigable channels, the Kyuquot and Halibut, leading to anchorages ; the former channel leads into Kyuquot sound, and the latter into Clan ninick harbour ; but as a rule no stranger should venture in the channels among these islands, unless the weather be clear, or without a pilot. In thick weather do not stand nearer the Barrier islands than into a depth of 40 fathoms. * See Admiralty chart : — Quatsino to Esperanza, No. 683 ; scale, wt ^ 0'5 of an inch. Chap. IX.] ESPERANZA INLET.— KYUQUOT SOUXD. 361 Higrhest island, one of the Barrier group, Ijing 2 miles south of Union inland, is a remarkable bare rock 98 feet high, and uaeful in identifying the Kyuquot channel. KYUQUOT SOUND, the eastern entrance to which is 12 miles from Esperanza inlet, is a large broken sheet of water penetrating from the coast to a distance of 14 or 15 miles inland in two largb arms, and several smaller ones. Union island, 1,484 feel high, lying at the entrance, forms on either side of it a channel into the sound, the eastern one only being fit for large vessels ; there are several islands within, mostly small ; its shores are mostly rocky and very much broken, rising to high mountains, 2,000 and 4,00(« feet abo v, the sea.* There are three anchorages, Narrowgut and Easy creeks, and Fair harbour, the two latter being of considerable size, but are 13 and 10 miles respectively from the entrance ; tlie former, though very small, is 5 miles within the sound. K3ruiiU0t clianiiel leads into the sound through the Barrier islands, and eastward of Union island. It is nearly straight, about 5 miles long in an N.N.E. direction, and about three-<juaners of a mile wide. East Entrance reef, one of the Barrier group lying at the south- east extreme of the channel, is about 2 cables in extent and 4 feet alx»ve high water ; no vessel should stand inside it, nor, when entering the channel, round the reef nearer than half a mile. Ruggred point, the east entrance point to Kyuquot sound, is tpwards of 2 miles north of East Entrance reef ; it is rugged and ocky, but steep-to on the west side ; between it and East Entrance lef are a number of rocks, among which no vessel should venture. Tie east side of the channel northward of this point is slightly iilented and steep-to, to the termination of the channel. V"est recks, at the south-west extreme of Kyuquot chaimel and 2 iiles N.W, \ W. from East Entrance reef, are two in number, the higifr being 50 feet above high water ; some rocks which cover at a quat^r flood extend half a mile S.E. from them, with 20 fathoms close to thf outer edge. When navigating the channel do not approach West )ck8 within two-thirds of a mile. II .' , * •• Admiralty plan ;■ -Kyuquot sound, No. 717 ; scale, m ^ 18 ^62 VAXCOCVER ISLAND, WEST COAST, [Chap. II. - I White Cliff head, the sonth-east extreme of Union island, is one mile N.E. by X. of West rocks, and abreast Rugged point ; it is about 7(1 feet hig^h, facet 1 to the southward by a remarkable white cliff. Half a mile X.N.W. of the head is Kyuquot hill, remarkable, 740 feet high, bsiire of trees on its east side, and very conspicuouB from seaward. Chatchannel point, the north-west extreme of Kyuquot channel and the east poioj of Union island, is a low rocky point with a remarkable nob Jasn inside it : a rock which covers at a quarter flood lies 2 cables ea!<t of it, and the point should not be rounded nearer than half a mile. Leadingr island, ju;*t northward of Kyuquot channel, and nearly 3^ miles from \\*hile Cliff head, is about l\ miles long in an east and west direction, half a mib; wide, and rises near the centre to a hill 480 feet high, wiak-h, when kept midway between White Cliff head and Rugged ]xAni. X. by E. | E., leads into the sound through the fairway of Kyuquot channel. Blind entrance leads into Kyuquot sound westward of Union island, forming a narrow tortuous channel with some rocks in the outer part ; it shonM not be entered by a stranger, though coasters often enter the ec»iimd by this channel, but no directions can be given for navigating it, Narrowgrut creek, in the south-east part of the sound, about 1^ miles from tht- i-ermination of the Kyuquot channel, is 1^ milef long in an E. by X, direction, but is less than one cable wide juf inside the entrance, 'live depths in it vary from IG to 8 fathom, and there is only jost room for a small vessel to moor ; the shors are high, and the creek easy of access to a steam-vessel. A stream->f considerable size runs into the head of the creek, from wb'ch a hdk extends 3 cables. Shingle point, at the entrance to the creek on the north sic, is oordered by a sandy beach, and has 9 fathoms close-to. Deep inlet, at H miles north from Narrowgut creek, is*^hout 3 miles long in an E.X.E. direction, but affords no anchorage on its north side, at the entrance, is a remarkable high precipice. See dbart, No. 717. ;y Chap. IX.] KYUQUOT SOUND. 363 Ho hoae island, nearly in the centro of the sound, half a mile north of Union island, is about 2 miles hmg in a north-easterly direction, upwards of one mile wide, and about C)00 feet high ; its shores are rocky. On its north-east side is Dixie cove, where a small craft may anchor in G fathoms completely land-locked. Pinnace channel, between Ho hoae island and the east shore of the sound, is about '^ miles long in a northerly direction, and half a mile wide. TAHSISH ARM, in the northern part of the sound, has ita entrance .5 miles from the termination of Kyuquot channel. It is 6 miles long in a winding direction to the northward, and its shores, except at the head, are high and rugged ; the hea<l terminates in low swampy land, through which flows a considerable stream, off which a bank dries one cable ; and there is a small village at the mouth of the stream ; on the east side, 2 miles below the head, is a similar stream, off which a bank extends about 2 cables. Fair harbour, on the east side of Tahsish arm, is 2^ miles in length in a N.E. by E. direction, from 3 to 4 cables wide, and affords anchorage near either end in from 13 to 11 fathoms ; its shores, generally, are high, and steep ; at its head a bank dries off for one cable. The western end of the harbour is formed by a low, narrow neck about one cable wide at low water, connecting an island to the mainland of Vancouver, and separating the harbour from Pinnace channel. The entrance lies on the north side of this island, is nearly one mile long, and from one to 2 cables wide, with some small islets on its north side, the depths in it being very irregular, varying from .') to 20 fathoms ; when entering keep the south shore pretty close aboard, but take care to avoid a rock which lies on that shore about half-way in. A patch of 9 feet lies abreast it, and therefore considerable caution must be observed. This harbour can be entered by steam- vessels, or sailing-vessels with a fair wind. Some rocks, the outer one of which covers, lie .3 cables westward from the entrance to Fair harbour, about one cable distant from the shore. Moketas island, in the north part of the sound, between the entrance to the Tahsish and Kokshittle arms, is about 2 miles long, and one mile wide, rocky, about 4U0 feet high, its east and west sides i li IM >■ ^ \ I See chart, No. 717. 364 VANCOUVER ISLAND, WEST COAST. [Chap. IX , 11 1 being steep-to. At one cable from its north shore, near the centre, is a sunken rock, and on its south-east side lie Channel rocks, a small patch about 3 feet above high water ; they, however, are steep-to. The passage between Moketas island and the north shore of the sound is ,3 cables wide in the narrowest part, with from 14 to 38 fathoms in mid-channel ; if using it, keep well over to the north side. Kokshittle arm. the entrance of which is in the north-west part of the sound, about 6 miles from Kyuquot channel, is upwards of 8 miles long in a north-westerly direction, and about one mile wide at the entrance, narrowing gradually towards the head ; its shores are rocky, and of a broken outline, with several small islets oflE them. The depths in it vary from 20 to 80 fathoms, shoaling gradually towards the head. A very good anchorage, the best in the sound, ia on its west side at 4 miles from the entrance. The head of the arm terminates in low swampy land, through which flows a small stream, and a bank extends off about 2 cables. Just within the entrance, on the east side, is a small cove with 4 fathoms in the centre, available for small craft. Easy creek, the anchorage before referred to on the west side of Kokshittle arm, and 13 miles from the entrance of the sound, is about 2 miles long in an E.S.E. direction, turning sharply round from its entrance and running in this direction parallel to the inlet, being separated from it by a narrow rocky peninsula. It is 4 cables wide at the entrance, narrowing gradually to the head ; the depths in it vary from 12 to 20 fathoms, and there is good anchorage from half a mile within the entrance to the head. The shores are rocky, of moderate height, steep-to on the north side, but from the south a sand-bank dries off in some parts nearly one cable. The best anchorage is one mile within the entrance, in from 13 to 16 fathoms, about one or 2 cables from the north shore ; when entering keep near the aorth shore. On the opposite side of the arm, abreast Easy creek, is a village and a stream of considerable size, off which a bank dries out about 2 cables. GbamiSS bay, on the west side of Kyuquot sound, about one mile from the north part of Blind entrance, is nearly half a mile in extent, but affords no anchorage, the water being too deep. See chart, No, 717. Chap. IX.] KYUQUOT SOUND, DIRECTIONS. 365 Direotions. — No sailing-vessel should attempt to enter Kyuquot sound, unless with a steady fair, or leading wind, as generally a heavy swell prevails outside, which in a light wind would render the position critical ; and no stranger should attempt to venture in, unless the weather is clear, and the leading mark for the channel can be easily made out. Entering the sound by the Kyuquot channel, which is the only one a stranger should use, keep a good oiling, till the entrance of the channel is made out, (White cliff head, and Kyuquot hill at the south-east point of Union island, which have been before described, are very consjncuous, and will identify the channel,) when bring the summit of Leading island midway between Chatchannel and Rugged points bearing N. by E. § E., and steer up the channel with that mark on ; when nearing Chatchannel point, give it a berth of at least 4 cables to avoid .the rock which lies off it. If bound to Narrowgut creek pass eastward of Leading island, and keeping about one cable from the south shore, enter the creek in mid-channel, and moor when inside. If bound to Fair harbour, keep as before directed till near Leading island ; pass to the westward of this island, and proceed up to the northward through Pinnace channel, keeping about one cable or so from either shore, on to the entrance of Tahsish arm. On nearing Fair harbour keep from 2 to 3 cables from the east side of the arm till the entrance bears E.S.E., when steer for it on that bearing, keeping close over to the south shore {sec page ;{(j3) till inside, and anchor in the middle, about half a mile from the east end, in 11 fathoms. Bound to Easy creek, pass westward of Leading, Ho hoae and Moketas islands ; enter the Kokshittle arm in mid channel, and pro- ceeding up it for a distance of 4 miles will bring a vessel abreast the creek, which may be entered in mid-channel ; anchor in from 13 to IG fathoms, about one mile within the entrance, and from one to 2 cables from the shore. Tides. — It is high water at full and change in Kyuquot sound at noon ; springs rise 12 feet. CLAN NINICK HARBOUR, on the Vancouver shore, 3 miles westward of Kyuquot sound, is about one mile long in a westerly direction, half a mile wide, and affords good anchorage, in from 7 to See chart, No. 717. 366 VANCOUVER ISLAND, WRKT COAST. [Chap. IX. I 10 fathoms, at half a mile from tho head, from which a sand-bank extends 2 cables ; its shores are mostly low, and there are some rocks on either side of the entrance. The harbour is protected bj' Village, Table, and other islands of the Barri<3r proup, and there is only one channel, the Halibut, into it through them, whicli should not, except under unavoidable circumstances, be attempted by a stranger. Halibut channel, through the Barrier group to Clan ninick harbour, lies westward of Table and Village islands, and east of Look-out island. It is about 3 miles long in a northerly direction, and half a mile wide in the narrowest part ; the dejjths in it vary from It) to G fathon^s, being somewhat irregular. Table Island, on the east side of the channel, is the largest of the Barrier group, being nearly half a mile in extent, and about 150 feet high to the tops of the trees ; some rocks, mostly above water, extend half a mile from its south side, the outer <me being 50 feet high, with 15 fathoms 2 cables west of it. Trap bluff on the west side of the island is conspicuous. Half a mile E.N.E. of Table island is an anchorage with from 4 to G fathoms, tolerably sheltt^ied from seaward by some islands, and much used by coasters in sommer months ; the entrance to it is rather intricate, and iio stranger, or any except a small vessel, should attempt to enter. VlUagre island (locally known as Kyuquot), on the east side of Halibut channel, just north of Table island, is small, and about 150 feet high to the tops of the trees ; on its east side is Aktese, a large native village, much frequented in summer ; off it a bank dries nearly '^ cables. Eastward of this island among the Barrier islands is a small cove (Barter cove), with from one to 4^ fathoms ; it is well sheltered in all weathers, and much frequented by coasters when fur trading ; the entrance to it is very narrow, being obstructed by a rock that dries G feet, but leaves a clear channel of 4 fathoms. Two cables north of Village island is a rock awash at high water springs, but there is a depth of 5 to G fathoms at one cable from the west side. Look-out island, at the south entrance of Halibut channel, lies nearly one mile south-west of Table island ; it is small, has a few See charts, Nos. 716, 717. Chap. TX.] CLAN NINTCK HARnoUR, DTRRCTTONS. 367 trees, and about 150 feet high ; its east side may bo approached to 2 cables, but half a mile ofT it are some rocks, on which the sea always breaks. Granite island, which forms the south side of Clan ninick harbour, is about half a mile in extent, and joined by a sandy beach at low water to the Vancouver shore. Chief rock, '.\ cables east from its east point, is a very dangerous rock, which lies at the termination of Halibut channel, and only uncovers at low-water springs. Louise, a sunken rock, with less than G feet over it, lies with Channel rock bearing E.S.E., distant G,'^ cables. Directions. — Bound into Clan ninick harbour by Halibut channel (which is the only passage by which a stranger can enter it), keep about 2 miles off the Barrier islands till Look-out island bears N.W. by N., when steer for the entrance of the channel, passing about 2 cables east of Look-out island. Wh'm the north-west end of Table island bears N.E., steer about N.N.E., or more easterly, so as to pass 2 or I{ cables north-west of Trap bluff ; on nearing Cranite island, bring Trap bluff in line with the east high water part of Look-out island S.S.W. | W., and steer N.N.H ^ K. for the entrance of the harbour, with the above-mentioned mark on astern, till the north side of Granite island l)ears W. by N. } N., or the harbour comes well open, when a vessel will be clear of the (.hief rock, and may haul in to the north-westward for the anchorage, passing about one cable southward of a small rock 4 feet above water lying on the north side of the harbour H cables within the entrance ; there is a clear passage northward of the last mentioned rock, about one calde wide. As before noticed, no stranger should attempt to enter this harbour without a pilot, unless from absolute necessity, and if in a sailing- vessel, only with a steady fair wind. Anchor in from 7 to 10 fathoms, with the extremes of the harbour bearing East and S.E. by S. * OU OU KINSH INLET, 10 miles W.N.W. from Kyuquot sound, is 7 miles long in a north-easterly direction, and 8 cables wide at the entrance, narrowing gradually towards the head ; the shores within are high, rising from 2,000 to upwards of i5,00() feet.* The depths in the inlet vary from 40 to 60 fathoms, and there is only one indifferent anchorage, Battle bay, just within the entrance * See Admiralty plan : — Ou oa kinsh inlet, No. 716 ; scale, m= 1'8 inches. 368 VANCOUVER ISLAND, WEST COAST. [Chap. IX. on the wcHt flido. Tho entrance lies west of the Barrier islands, and the dei)th8 in it vary from 40 to 48 fathoms. Fairway rock, awash at low water, is situated in tho approach to Ou ou kinsh inlet, with Clara islet N.E. jj^ E., distant one mile. Clara Islet, at tht* south-east extreme of the *'ntrance, is small, bare, and 2*) feet above high water ; no vessel should go eastward of, or approach it witliin half a mile. This island is the westernmost of the l^arrier islands, and lies 21 J miles W. by N. from Tat chu point, where they may bo said to commence. Bunsby islands, on the east side of the entrance, close in shore, are about 2 miles in extcmt, and from 2.'')0 to J5()0 feet high ; the passages between them and the shore are choked up with rocks, but their west side is steep-to ; Pinnacle point and Green head at their south- west extreme are remarkable. North-eastward of these islands is Malksope inlet, 4 miles long in a north-easterly direction, but the entrance is intricate, and there is no anchorage within it. Cuttle group, lying at the south-west entrance point of Ou ou kinsh inlet, and 1 J miles N.N.W. from Clara islet, comprises a number of small islets and rocks, some of the former being wood'd ; nearly one mile S.W. from them is a rock on which the sea breal in fine weather. On the Vancouver shore, just north-west of tli lU, is Low cone, a remarkable summit 35G feet high, and useful in identifying tho entrance. Do not go to the westward of these islets, or approach their east side nearer than 2 cables. Sulivan reefs are a very dangerous patch of rocks lying nearly 3 miles outside the entrance of Ou ou kinsh inlet, 2 J miles W. by S. from Clara islet, and nearly 4 miles S.S.E. from Hat island in Nasparti inlet; they are about half a mile in extent east and west, and the sea only breaks occasionally on them ; there are from 10 to 11 fathoms close around them. Solander island, off cape Cook, just open east of the cape bearing W. J S. leads 1^ miles south ; Hat island, in the entrance of Nasparti inlet, in line with a summit on the west shore of the inlet bearing North leads 1^ miles west. See chart, No. 716. CllUp. IX.] or or KINSH INLFT.— NASPAUTI 1\LRT. m Battle bay, jnwt within Ihc tintranco of On on kinwh inlet, on thf wt'.st side, irt uuwunlH of a niilo wi<U', iin<l half a niih' dtH-p, with st'vrnil iHlctrt and Hiinkcn rocK'rt innide it near tlir middh' ; near the north |>;iit there is anchnra^'e in rmni (1 to'.) Cathoni!!, which may ht* UHed in fine weatlier. A rock, with a depth of '•• feet on it, lies with tho Hiiinniit of the Hoiithern Skirmish islet bearing N.K. ^ K., distant 2:{ cables, and a rock, with a dej)tl» of 6 feet on it at low wa t, lies half a cable K, l»y N. I N. from tlu^ north-cant point of the islet on the south-west shore of Uattle bay. Directions. — If int(Midin<,' to enter On on kinsh inlet, and anchor in Battle liay, ke(>p an oiling' of I or .'» miles from the main, till Clara iHlet at the west extreme of the Uarrit'r islands is made out, when steer for it on a N.K. bcarinj,', passing about half a mile west of the islet, being careful to avoid Fairway rock awash at low water situated one mile S.W. of Clara islet. When abreast the islet steer for the centre of the entrance about N.N.K., round the Skirmish islets, which lie in the middle of Hattle bay, distant 2 cal)leH, and anchor in 7 fathoms, midway between them and tlie north side of the bay. It is not recommended to use this anchoraj;e, unless embayed, as it affords but indifferent shelter in southerly gale-*, and no sailing- vessel should attempt to enter unless with a stisady fair wind. Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in Ou ou kinsh inlet at noon ; sjjrings rise 12 feet. NASPARTI INLET, H miles west of Ou ou kinsh inlet, on the east side of a lai'ge peninsula of which cape Cook is the south- west extreme, and in the head of an open bight or bay, is about 4 miles long, in a northerly direction, and about half a mile wide at the entrance, decreasing in some places to less than 15 cables. Its shores are high and rocky, indented by some slight bays ; there is a fresh-water stream at the head, from which a bank extends about i5 cables. The depths vary from 115 to ;50 fathoms, and there is a secure though rather limited anchorage, in from 115 to 1(1 fathoms, at half a mile from the head. Outside the (mtrance are several dangers.* Haystacks, off the east side of the entrance, and Ijf miles north from Sulivan reefs, are two l>are, sharp-topped, cliffy rocks, 6i) i.ef»t high, and about 2 cables apart ; at 2 cables from their wt^st side are from 25 to 20 fathoms ; northward of them, rocks and foul ground exist. East rock, ;5 cables from the east entrance point, is of small extent, has 17 fathoms at one cable westward of it, and covers at * St-e Admiralty plan : — Nasparti inlet, No. 716 ; scale, m = 1*8 inches. SO 11948 2 A 370 VANCOUVER 1?4LAXD, WEST COAST. [Chap. IX. i half flood ; the Haystacks, open south of Yule islet, bearing S.E. by E., lead from 2 to 3 cables west of it. Yule islet, about 40 feet high, lies nii(l\V!>y bttwocn the Hay- stacks and East rock. Mile rock breaker lies 1} miles from the west siiore of the entrance to the inlet, and 2 miles W. by N. ^ N. from Sulivan reefs. It is very dangerous, as it is of small extent, and the sea breaks on it with any swell ; the depths around it are irregular. Hat island, in the entrance of inlet, in line with a summit on the west side bearing North, h'ads l» cabh's east of it, and well clear of the Sulivan reefs, into the inlet. Do not stand westward of this danger. Mile rock, nearly one mile north of the above-mentioned danger is a small bare rock, 12 feet above higii water ; there are 21) Fathoms one cable east of it. A ledge i-xtends fully one cable from its north side. Ha.t islmd, 7U feet high, lying in the centre of the inlet just within the entrance, is small, a!id has a few stunted trees on the summit ; from the southward it is very conspicuous, and appears somewhat like a hat. It is steep-to on the east side, but nearly mid- way between it and the west shore is a shoal patch of 2^ fathoms, marked by kelp ; also two rocks marked by kelp lie in the fairway S.E. of Hat island. The inner rock lies about one ?able from the island ; the outer rock with 15 fathoms over it lies 2| cables S.S.E. ^ E. from the oast extreme of the island. Directions. — Nasparti inlet should not be used by a stranger unless from necessity, as in thick or cloudy weather it might be difficult to make out the leading marks, and no one should attempt to enter unless they are well made (»ut, especially as the sea only breaks on the outlying dangers in heavy weather, and they are seldom seen. A sailing-vessel should, in passing the entrance of this and Ou ou kinsh inlet, keep Solandcr island open south of the land east of cape Cook bearing Wi t. If entering Nasparti inlet, keep Solander island (off cape Cook) in line with the land eastward of it bearing W. ;|^ S., until Hat island k *f chart, -No. 716. Chap. IX.] NASI'ARTT INLET.— BROOKS BAY. Ml c I E. comes in line with a summit on the west side of the inlet bearing North, when steer in for the entrance on that bearing, which will lead ;} cables east of the Mile rock breaker, well clear of the Sulivan reefs, and half a mile west of P]ast rock ; pass east of Hat island and the sIkkiIs lyin^^ S.K. of it, and ste^'r iij) the inlet in mid-channel, anchoring in liJ fathoms, about one-third of a mile from the head. Tides. — It is high water at full and change in Nasparti inlet at noon ; sjmngs rise 12 feet. BROOKS PENINSULA.— Westward of Nasparti inlet is a peninsula, '.) mih'S long, and about 5 miles wide, projecting S.S.W. ; its sliores are for the most j)art very rocky, and rise almost abruptly from the sea to upwards of 2,000 feet ; there are several off-lying dangers around it, some of which extend upwards of one mile from the shore.* Cape Cook or Woody point, the south-west extreme of this peninsula and the most projecting point of the outer coast of Vancouver island, is K))) miles W. by N, i N. from the lighthouse on Tatoosh island. Tlu' cape rises abruptly from the sea 1,2(X) feet. At 2 miles from ca))e Cook and the south side of the peninsula the depths are from 20 to 90 fathoms, and as a rule no vessel should approach nearer. Cape Cook is situated in latitude r)0° 7' 0" N.,longitude 127° 5.7 :<0" W. Banks reef, which covers at three-quarters Hood, and on which the sea breaks heavilj', lies 3 miles E.S.E. from cape Cook, and two- thirds of a mile from the shore. Solander island, nearly one mile west of cape Cook, is bare, 580 feet high, and has two sharp peaks ; between it and the cape the passage is choked n\> with rocks, and no vessel or even boat should go inside the island. BROOEIS BAY, on the west side of Brooks peninsula, is a larg(! open bay about 12 miles wide, and (I miles deep ; there are several dangers within it, and two inlets, Klaskish and Klaskino, which afford anchorage but are very difficult of access, and no sailing-vessrl should attempt to enter either unless embayed and unable to get out of Brooks bay : the soundings are irregular, varying from 17 to 48 fathoms, shoaling generally to the northward.f * iSiv Admiralty chart : — Qiintsino to Espt-ranza. No. RS!? ; scale, w =0*5 inch. f See Admiralty plan : — Kla-skino and Klaskish inlets, No. 590 ; scale, m = 2 inches. SO 11948 2A2 .^72 VANCCnVKR ISLAND. WKST COAST. [Chap. IX. I Gierke reel^ lie in the south-oast part of the bay, .'> miles north from cape Cot)k, their outer extreme being 2h miles oft" the cast shore of the bay. They cover an extent of upwards »if 2 miles, some are under water, others uncover, and no vessel shouhl ventin-e among them. Cape Cook, bearing S.S.E. h K-. leads 2 miles west of these reefs ; and Small islet at the entrance of Klaskish inlet, in line with Leading cone at its head, bearing N.E. by E. ^ E., leads 1.^ miles north. KLASKISH INLET, at the head of Brooks bay on the west side of Brooks peninsula, and 10 miles N.N. Pi. from cape Cook, is about '^ miles long in a north-easterly direction, a?:d one mile wide at the entrance ; at its head is a long narrow basiii, the entrance of whicli is too contracted for a vessel to enter. There is an anclutrage just within the entrance to the inlet on the south side, to the eastward of Shelter island, l)nt it is diflicult of access to a sailing-vessel.* Caution. — The entrance to this anchorage is intricatt' and narrow ; and, unless unavoidably necessary, no vessel larger than a coaster should attempt it, as a furious sea rages all around tin* outer parts. Ship rock, lying 7i miles N. by W. from cape Cook, 2 miles distant from the shore in the centre of Brooks bay, and midway Itetween Klaskish and Klaskino inlets, is of small extent, and has from 17 to 20 fathoms close on its south and east sides ; the sea generally breaks very heavily over it. Surgre islets, on the south side of the entrance, .5i cables from the shore, are small, rocky, and about 40 feet high ; foul ground exists among them, and when entering the inlet do not approach their west side nearer than ') cables. Shelter island, just within the entrance of the inlet on its south side, is about half a mile in extent, IlOO feet high, with a hill at each end with a few stunted trees ; some rocks extend a short distance from its east and west sides, but the north shore is steep-to. The anchorage on its east side is about one third of a mile in extent, with from 10 to 1'^ fathoms, well sheltered, but the bottom is irregular ; the entrance to it, round the north east side of the island, is less than one cable wi<le in (he narrowest part. About one cable from the north-east point of Shelter is Bare i.slet, 15 feet high, which «m entering the anchorage should be p3ssed close to on its east side. *Sfe Admiralty plan : — Klankinh inlet, No. 590 ; scale, m=r2'0 inches. Chiip. IX.] KLA8KISH AND KLASKINO INLETS. •m Retwc't'ii Slu'lter iHliiml and the north I'utRiucc point of the inlet is a heavy confused sea, which is dangerous for sailing-vessels, as the wind generally fails there. Directions. — Entering Klaskish inlet when coming from the e.istward, and intending to anchor on the east aide of Shelter island, do not bring cape Cook Houthward of S.S.E. i E., till Leading cone, a remarkable hill at the head of the inlet almut 5(K) feet high, comes in line witli Small islet on the north side of entrance bearing N.E. Ijy E. I E., which mark will lead into the inlet well n<irth of the Clerke reefs anil Surge islets; when al»reast the latter, haul a little to the eastward, so as to enter midway between Small islet and Shelter island ; pass within one cable east of Hare islet ofT the latter's north-east point, and anchor in KH'athoms with the extremes of Shelter bearing N.W. by W. [. W. and S.W. ^ W. Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in Klaskish inlet at noon ; springs rise 12 feet. KLASKINO INLET, the entrance to which is in the north part of Brooks bay, 10 miles N. f W. from cape Cook, is nearly (5 miles long in a winding directi<m E.N.E. Numerous rocks lie oil the entrance, but there is an intricate jjassage through them ; and there is also a good anchorage on the south side, 2 miles within the inlet. The depths vary from 1<> to 20 fathoms in the lower part of the inlet, increasing gradually towards the head to 40 fathoms ; the iidet here becomes narrow, with high anil rocky shores, terminating in low land at the head.* Caution. — The entrance of Klaskino iidet is e\en more intricate than Klaskish, and should not be attempted by a stranger unless absolutely for safety. Nob point, the south entrance point of the inlet, is rocky, and covered with a few stunted trees, and close to its outer part is a rocky nob about 1IK> feet high. From Nob point a line of reefs above and below water with dei'p water between them extend fully J I miles in a W.N.W. direction. Twenty-feet rook, 4 cables N.W. by W. from Nob point, is bare and 20 fVet above high water. It is conspicuous from the outside, and there are 19 fathoms close to its north and west sides, but between •&'( Admiralty plun oi Klaskino iulel, No. 5'JO ; scale, m = 20 inuhea. 374 VANCOUVER ISLAND, WEST COASt. [Chap. IX it and Nob point the passage is choked up with rocks ; tlic only channel into the inlet being westward of the rock, between it and Channel reefs. Two rocks on which the sea breaks at low water lie southward of Channel reefs, and one mile distant from Nob point. The southern- most lies three-quarters of a mile S.W. ^ W. from Twenty-feet rock. Channel reefs, the south-east part of which is .'5^ cables W. by S. from Twenty-feet rock, are a cluster of rocks, mostly under water, extending in a westerly direction to the north-west shore of Brooks bay. There is deep water between them in many places, but the only safe passage into Klaskino inlet upwanls of 3 cables wide with deep water is between their south-east part and Twenty-feet rock. Anchorage island, in the middle of the inlet, about 2 miles within the entrance, is of small extent and rocky ; some small islets extend one cable from its north-west and south-eiist points. The anchorage between the east side of this island and the shore is from 3 to 4 cables in extent, and well sheltered, with from 1) to 10 fathoms water : the entrance to it, round the south-east point of Anchorage island, is about one cable wide in the narrowest part, with from 13 to 17 fathoms in the middle. Between Twenty -feet rock and the entrance to the anchorage are several dangers ; a rock 3 feet high lies H^ cables S.W. '^ W. from the south-east point of Anchorage island, and another 2 feet high 3 cables S.W. 5" S. from the same point, and there is a reef which covers one cable W. by S. ^ S. from the latter rock. When entering the inlet pass northward of these. Above Anchorage island some rocks extend nearly across the inlet, rendering it almost impossible for a vessel to go beyond them. Red Stripe mountain, rising on the north side of entrance, abreast Anchorage island, is of a remarkable conical shape, !2,:20() feet high, with a valley on either side of it ; on its south part, facing seaward, is a conspicuous red cliffy stripe or landslip, easily distinguished from the outsiile. Directions. — Bound for Klaskino inlet, when outside Ship rock, bring Twenty-feet rock in line with the lower part of the red stripe on Red Stripe mountain bearing N.N.E, | E., and run boldly for the ,SfY' chart, No, 5l>0. Chap. IX.] KLA8KIX0 iN'LfiT.— gUATSlN'O SOtfND. 375 eutnuice with that mark on, which will li-ad 2i, caliK* east of the southern patches of the Channel reefs ; keep on this omrse till within 2 cables of Twenty-feet rock, when haul a little to the north- wartl, and pass it t)n it« north side at one cable distant, after which steer about N.E. by E. ^ K. for the centre or south part of Anchorage island, passing one cable or so north of the rocks off the *«jiith siile of the inlet ; when abreast the south-west j)oint of the island, hanl tjuickly to the eastward, round the r^)cks off its south-«u^ j)oint within half a cable, and anchor in from '.t to 10 fathoms midway Ix'tween the east side of tlu; island and the main, with extremes of the former bearing N.W. and S.W. by W. : a large vessel should moor. Three miles from Klaskino, in the extreme north ]«art of Brooks iKty, is a large rivulet where boats may enter and tind shelter in Utd "Weather. Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in Klaskino inlet at noon ; springs rise 12 feet. Lawn point, the north-west extreme of ]>rooks bay, lies 12 miles X.W. by X. from cape Cook ; it is low, and some rocks extend more than half a mile in an easterly direction from it, inside of which a 1x)at may tind shelter : the sea breaks violently about this pointy and everywhere along the shores of Brooks bay. A vessel should keep a goo«.l offing. The land in the vicinity of Lawn point appears very fertile, and lightly timbered ; it rises gradually from the sea to a height of l,yW feet. Boat shelter. — Between the entrance to Klaskino inlet and Lawn point is a deep bay, in which are several islets and reefs ; it is nnfit for anchorage, being open to seaward, but at its head, north of May- day island, there is good shelter for boats. QUATSINO SOUND, the north-westernmost of the deep inlets on the outer coast of Vancouver island, penetrates the i«>lan>l in a north-easterly direction for upwards of 2;') miles. At the entnmee between Keef point (on the south) and Entrance island, it is nearly 6 miles wide, narrowing to less than one mile at 5 miles within : the sound then takes a north-easterly direction, nearly straight for l'.\ miles, when it branches off in two arms, one (South-east arm) extemling to the south-east for 12 miles, antl terminating in low land. The other iiei- chart, No. 590. ' 376 TAXCOUTER IsLAND, WEST COAST. [Chap. IX (West arm) li<« to the northward, and is connected with the wouud by a iraight narrow pass about 2 miles long ; it is 22 miles long in an east and west direction.* Just within the entrance of the sound on the north side is Forward inlet, a much sraaUvr arm, about G miles long in a northerly direction, in which are th*? hies* anchorages in the sound. The shores of Quatsino sound are mostly high, and near the entrance very much br»>ken ; ther. are several small islands within and along its shonw*. From the oatside the entrance to Quatsino sound presents several remarkable feature*, which render it easy to be made out ; along itti eastern side are sev>e-raJ r»)cks and small islands ; and on both sides of and within the i^>and the land is high, some of the mountains being verj- coospicuoa.-*. Among these are the Flatto]) and Entrance mountains northwani of the entrance, and Nose peak and Gap mountains inside : Noee peak being easily distinguished by its sharp rocky summit, 1.7i30 feet high. There are several »iangers along the western side* of the entrance ; in the fairwiiy are two very dangerous rocks, on which the sea only breaks in heavy wcasher, and it requires gi'eat caution on the part of the navigator to avoid them, when entering or leaving the sound. Redf point <Omannys), the south-east entrance point of the sound, 14 miles X.W. by N. from cape Cook, and H miles from Lawn point, the north-west extreme of Brooks bay, is low and rocky, but rises gradually to a well-defined mountain, 1,901 feet above the sea : the coast berween it and Lawn point forms a slight bay tilled with a number of rocks extending a considerable distance from the shore. Boat cove, into which flows a small stream (Culleet river) in which a boat can enter, and find shelter in bad weather, is a small bight on the eiisi shoiv of the sound, i)\ miles North from Heef point : the coast Ix^tween the two places is indented by several bays, and fringed by reefs, which ♦•xlt-iid in many places nearly one mile from the shore, and over which the st-a usually breaks very heavily. Bold bluff, 7 miles north from Reef point, on the south side of the sound, is, as it# name implies, a bold rocky salient bluff rising suddenly to upwank of 2(X) feet, when it slopes gradually to a S\ chart. Xo. 582. * iSer idmirals; pbnr d^aar'^ino .'M)und, No. 570 ; scale, m = :iV mcbuH. Chiip. IX.] yUATSINO SOl^NU. •Ml suniniit 1,1)09 feet hijjfh. At this spot the soiind contnicta to less than one mile in breadth. Surf islands, 1^ miles S.S.W. from Bold bluff, and 15 miles within the entrance to Qiiatsino sound, are a chain of small islands nearly one mile long in a N.W. and S,E. direction, some of which have a few stunted trees, and are about 40 feet above high water ; a shor^ distance from them are a number of rocks on which the sea breaks Although there aijpears to be ileep water between these islandfi and the east side of the souikI, it is not advisable to use that passage, as it has not been sufliciently examined. Entrance island, 5i miles N.W. .V N. from lieef point, at the north-west entrance point of the sound, is small and rocky, about 140 feet high, and covered with a few stunted trees. Northward of it is a narrow boat pass into the sound, about one cable wide, but filled with rocks, passable only in tine weather. Danger rocks, on the western side of the entrance, nearly in the fan-way, are two very dangerous pinnacle rocks, of small extent, half a mile distant from each other in a N.W. and S.E. direction, ami steep-to on all sides. South Danger rock is awash at low wi'.ter, and lies one mile East from the south extreme of Entrance island : North Danger rock (Okookstaw) is 7 cables distant from the same island, and breaks at low water ; there is deep water between the I'ocks. Tli<^ sea very seldom breaks on these rocks, great caution is therefore required to avoid them, when entering or leaving the sound. Pinnacle islet, in line Avith the east point of Low islets, in Forward inlet, bearing N.N.W. ^ W., leads nearly 4 cables west of Danger rocks, and midway between the North rock and Entrance island. Robson island, in Forward inlet, open north of Entrance Mount point bearing N.W. l)y W. J, W., leads l) to 4 cables east of Danger rocks ; and Village islet, on the east side of Forward inlet, just touching Brown point bearing N.W., leads about thn-e-iiuarters of a mile east of them, and midway between them and the Surf islands. liold bluff, in line with the gap in the centre of Surf islands, bearing N. by E. ^ E., leads nearly 8 cables S.E. of South Dangrr. Between the Danger rocks and Surf islands, the passage is 1^ miles wide. <St'<' chart, No. 570. :m Vai^couveu island, west coast. [Chap. IX. FORWARD INLET, on the wcHt side of the sound, is one mile wide at the entnince, anil about (! miles ionj; ; it lir.st takes a nortli- wefiterly direction for 2 miles from its outer part, then turning,' N.N.E. for 4 miles, it contracts in breadth, and becomes shoal at the head, terminating in large salt-water lagoons; in tlie upper part it contracts to less than a quarter of a mile in width in some places ; there are two anchorages within it, North and Winter harbour.s, the former easy of access to sailing-vessels, anil both are very secure and well shelte ' d. Entrance and Flattoi) mountains, on the west side of Forward inlet near the entrance, are very consi)icuous objects from seaward ; the former is 1,27"), and the latter %0 feet high. Pinnacle islet, three-i|uarters of a mile north of Entrance island, is a smiU jagged rock about 40 feet high, with a few trees on its summit. RobSOn island, in the bend of Forward inlet on the west siile, 1^ miles from Pinnacle islet, is about half a mile in extent, and ;iS,j feet high, and its shores are rocky. Uetween it and the west shore is a narrow pas.iage of 2 to 5 fathoms water. Low islets, 4 cables S.E. from liobson island, are small wooded islands which are steep-to on all sides. Villagre islet. — A small village is situated on the east side of Forward inlet al>reast Robson island, and close ofif it is Village islet, a small bare islet about 40 feet high, which is rather conspicuous. Bare islet, lying off the north-east entrance point to Forward inlet, is about 12 feet high, and steep-to on the outside ; it is 1^ cables from the shore, but the passage inside is only lit for a boat. Burnt hill, 1,095 feet high, just over Brown point, the m Ah- east entrance point of Forward inlet, is remarkable from the south- ward, being bare of trees and clitfy on its south side. NORTH HARBOUR, which lies north-west of Robson ishuul, on the west side of Forwanl inlet, is a snug and secure anchorage, about 4 cables in extent, with from 4 to G fathoms. The entrance is 3 cables wide, rendering the harbour easy of access to sailing- vessels ; it is perhaps the best anchorage within the sound, and from being only 4 miles within the entrance is very convenient. iSee chart, No. 670. wm Chap. IX.] (iUATSlNO SOUND, WINTER HAUIlOtfU. •M^ lirowning creek, in its west piirt, e.\teiulH J| luik'S wt'dtwanl, ami i.s very narrow, with from 2 to 5 i'athoins in it, terminatini.' in a shallow basin, dry at low water. Observatory rock, which lies on the north siije of the entrance to North harbour, i.s a small bare rock, connecteil at low water to the mainland. WINTER HARBOUR comprises that part of Forward inlet which runs in a N.N.E. direction, and is a cai)acious anciioraj^e with from S to 11 fathoms. Its shores are low anil bordereil by a sandy beach, and the harlnmr becomes shoal at a distance of one mile from the head ; its bn-adth varies from '2 to G cables. There is a store here where provisions and clothes may be obtained. ItOg" point, just outside the entrance to this harbour on the east side, is low, and bordered by a sandy beach ; southwaril of it, and extending 4 cables from the shore, is New bank, with '.\\ fathoms on the shoalest part, and contracting the breadth of the entrance passage to the harbour to less than one cable between it and a shoal spit extending from the opposite shore ; but, l)y keeping a little over to the west side when abreast North harbour, this bank may be avoided, and enter Winter harbour without danger. At the narrowest part of the entrance to Winter harbour, above Log point, on the west side, is Grass jioint, bordered by a sandy beach, which is steep-to. Pilley shoal, of S fathoms, on the north side of Quatsino sound, is of small extent, steep-to on the outside, and marked by keli). It lies Ih cables from the shore, and one mile west from Bold bluff Boat cove, <m the north side of the sound, is of small extent, with r> fathoms inside ; it wttidd all'ord good Hhelter for a small ci'aft ; the north shore of Quatsino sound between it and Bare islet is rocky and very much broken. Bedwell islets, lying oi miles within the entrance, oil" a pri»- jecting point (m the north side of the sound, are of small extent, wooded, and separated from the shore by a very narrow boat pass, which is conspicuous from the entrance. Monday shoal, at IJ cables See chart, No. 670. 380 VAXCOCVEH I8LAND, WKST COAST. [Chap. IX. N.E. of thfiii, has 4 t'lithoiUH (and reported less water) on it, is marked by kelp, aiul Hteei)-to on tlie outside ; earitward of Hedwtdl islets no swell is ever exi)erien('ed in the sound. Tides.— It is hi^'li water, full and cliaiiK'', »'» Quatsino sound at 11 hours; springs rise about 11 feet. KOPRINO HARBOUR, S miles within the entrance, in the centre of a bay on the north shore of Quatsino sound, is a perfectly landlocked but small anclutrage ail'ording i-oom for one or two shii)s to lit! moored within. It lies northward of l'lumi»i'r island, Avhieh is about half a mile in exti'Ut, low, wooded, and steep-to on all sides, there being a good passage on either side of it into the harbour. There is a store here where provisions and clothing may l)e obtained.* Dockyard island, in the west part of the harbour, midway between Plumper island and the north shore, is small, and a ledge, the greatest depth on which is 4 fathoms, connects it with Plumper island. Mud bank, about 1^ cables N.E. from Dockyard island, in the middle of the harbour, is a small patch of 15 feet ; there is gooil anchorage one cable south of Dockyard island, in 14 fathoms. Wedgre island lies at the eastern limit of the anchorage, about one cal)le north of Plumper island ; it is very small, and covered with a few bushes, a ledge extends a short distance westward from it ; there is a eleep passage on either side of it into the harbour. Observatory islet, at the north-east extreme of the harbour, is bare and al)out 12 feet high ; it is 2 cables north of Plumper island, and 15 cables from the north shore, connected to the latter by a bank which dries at low water. This islet is in lat. 50° 30' 0" N., long. 127'^ .52' IG" W. East cove, the head of the bight between Observatory islet and Prideaux point, appears to afford good anchorage in (J to 10 fathoms ; but the entrance to it has not been sufficiently examined to recommend its being used by a large vessel. Prideaux point, the east entrance point of East passage, is low, bordered by a sandy beach. The north shore of the sound from Prideaux point takes a general north-easterly direction for l) miles to Coffin islet, at the entrance of Hecate cove. It is bordered by a sandy * Sec plan of Kopriuo harbour on Admiralty ohart,No. 570 j scale, m — 60 inchea, Ohiip. IX.] QUATSIXO SOrXT).— KOPRIXO HAnnouR. :m hoi\ch, iiinl I'prcy Icdj,'*' lies (J miles from Pritlcanx point, is 2 cal>los from the siiorc, and lias 4 fathoms on its out«'r e(|^'e. From IJolij hlnlV the south shore of ihesmiinl treiiils nearly parallel to the northern for ]',\ mih's in a north-eastci-ly tlircelimi. It is hitrh and indented by two hays of eonsiderable size, antl some small creeks, none of wliieh afford anehorafjre. in Kctskfcmo i)ay, at 2 miles within Hold hhilf, is a native villa^'o of eonsiderable si/,e (May hat ti-e) and an(dioraf,'e in J 7 fathoms. Villaf^i; islamls, at the east extreme of Koskeemo bay, are of small extent ami l(»\v ; their outer i)art is steep-to. Shoal water extends 2.1, cables north-west from the entrance (»f Maad river. Brockton Island (Quolaad), lyin^ :i cables from a i)rojeetinj,' point on the south side of the sound, 7 miles X.E. from Mold blulf, is nearly half a mile lonfj, but narrow ; its west side is steei)-to. Limestone island (Maiclafjh), ir> miles within the entrance, and in the cenire of the sound, is nearly ;> miles lon<,', and about three- (juarters of a mile wide in thi' broadest part. Its shores are rocky, and the island is of moderate heiglit ; Quiet cove, on its nortii-west side, is small, and affords anchorage for small craft. Foul islets, lying midway between Holloway point, the south-west (extreme of Limestone island, and the south shore of the sound, are small, and about '.) cables in extent in an east an<l west direction. There is a deep ])assage, about 2 cables wide, on either si<le of them : the south passage is to be preferred. Single islet, half a mile north-eastward from Holloway point, and 3 cables north of the Foul islets, is low and bare. KultUS cove, abreast Limestone island, on the south side of the sound, is about half a mile in extent, with irregular soundings of from 12 to 25 fathoms ; it affords no anchonige, except for small craft. South-east arm, the entrance to which is one mile east of Limestone island and IS miles within the entrance of the sound, is 10 miles long in a south-easterly direction, and varies in l)readth from '•) cables to one mile, its shores are generally high and rugged, but terminate in low land at the head ; the depths in it vary from ){(( to 7(1 fathoms, and there is no anchorage, except for small craft ; a bank dries off 2 cables from the head, and close to its edge is a depth of 15 fathoms, St-e chart, No. 582. :W2 VANCOUVRR IHFiANl), WKHT (.'OAST. [Chap. IX. : Mist rock, ;'> milcH within tho «>ntranco, and 4 eabloH from tho ('UHt flhoro, is of Huiaii oxtcnt, and covcrH at lialf Hood ; l)y kot^pin;,' wt'll ovur to tho wt'Ht sliorc, a vosHol will clear it. AtkinH cov(», on the i^aHt side of the entrance to South-east arm, is 1 cables lonj,' in a northerly direction, and one* cable wide, with from ') to 7 fathoms ; (lier<( is room for a small vessel to anchor in it, bin, the cove is open to the sonth-cast. Whitestone point, at the Heparation of the two arms at the head of Qiiatsino sound, is a rocky point of moderate heif,'ht, and lies thre((-quarters of a mile N.K. from Limestone island, and abreast C(»nin islet. Hull ro 'k, which covers, and is marked by kolp, lies ',] cables south from Whitestone point, and 2 cables from llu* shore. I'etween Atkins cove and Whitestone point the coast is ntcky, and should not be approached nearer than '.\ cables. HECATE COVE (Ka,i,'ao^'h). on the north shore about one mile N.K. of (!olfin islet, imlents the shore abont two-thirds of a mile in a north-westerly direction, is from 2 to 15 cables wide, and affords good anchorajje near the centre in 1) to 11 fathoms. In the inner part of the cove, near the north side, are some shoal i)atches, markecl by kelp, with only 11 feet water in some parts ; the shores of the cove are moderately high, and bordered by a sandy beach.* This cove is convenient for steam-vessels or small craft ; anchor in about 11 fathoms, with the entrance points bearing South and S.K, ; a large vessel should moor. There is a depth of 1^^ feet at the end of the wharf. There is a settlement of Norwegians on the west side of the cove. There is a store and post office here. Kitten island, at the east side of entrance, is steep-to on the outside. Round island (Quatishe), nearly in mid-channel, about 1 mile East of Hecate cove and just south of Quatsino narrows, is small, and of moderate height ; there is a clear pa^c'age between it and the north shore, but the one south of it is filled v, ith rocks. At 3 cables S.E. from it is Bight cove, of moderate extent, with from S to 10 fathoms inside, but as the tide runs strongly off the entrance and there are also some rocks, it is recommended for small craft only. Quatsino narrows, 20 miles inside the sound and connecting it with Rupert and West arms, are 2 miles long in a northerly S<-r chart, No. 582. * See plan of Hecate cove on Admiralty chart, No. 570 ; scale, m = 6'0 inches. Chap. TX.l «iUOT><ISO sOUSn.— WEST ARM, :m (llri'Ption, aiiil 1.^ ciihlos whIc in ilic niirrowrHt part ; the (h'ptliB in it vary from li to I'O fiithoms, itH shoros iir«' liif,'li iind rocky. Turn jtoiiit, at the soiith-Wf.st extreme of the narrows, is Indd and clitVy, tlie cttartt tiinrmi,' sliarply roimd ii To the northward ; ashort distance oil' it are Home strong,' tith' vips. Pliilip and .la-n -s )>oiMH, at the iiortli exlr<'me of tin- narrows, are Ixdd and steei)-t() ; otV the hitter, wliich lies on the cant side, iH a Hinall ishind named Ma<pia/,neecht. Tidal streams. — 'i'hc tidal streams run t)irf)nj,'l» tliese narrows at a rat(» of from 4 to tl knots, and tin' streams tnrn shortly after hi^h and h)W water. RUPERT ARM, north east of Qnatsino narrows, is .'> niili>s ionij in a north-easterly direction, and nearly one mile wide; its shores are hij^h ; its head terminates in low land, and a haidv dries oil' it for 'i cables. The (h'jttlis in this arm vai-y from Sd to IJd fathoms, shoalinf? ijra dually to the head, oil' which a vessid may anchor, in Id to 17 fathoms, ashort distance from the ed^'e of the hank. Marliie creek, which lies half a mih^ Kast of the narrows, at the entrance of Rui)ert arm, is of small extent, and afl'ords anchora;,'*' in from 5 to ('» fathoms ; off its head a sand-bank extends t cables, and midway up tlu! creek are some small islets <m either side ; if intendiii}? to anchor, pass between and go just inside them. From Kupert arm to Hardy bay, on the north-east side of Vancouver island, is a distance of only (I miles, and a trail i'xists between th(^ two places, much frecpiented by the natives for tradini,' purixises to fort Rupert. Hankin point (Ruanispah), abreast Qnatsino narrows on the north side, is bold and rocky; it separates the Rupert fr(»m ihe ■West arm. "WEST ARM trends in a westerly direction nearly l.S miles from the north part of Qnatsino narrows, and varies in breadth from 2 cables to one mile. Its shores are mostly hifjli and rocky ; the northern shore is indented by several small bays, and off it are some rocks and small islands. There are two anchoraj^es, one at Coal harbour on the north side, and the other at the edge of the bank extending? from the head ; the former is of moderate extent, and the best anchorage northward of the narrows. See chart, No. 582. •^u VAXCOUVER ISLAND, WEST COAST. [Chap. TX. West arm gradually docroasea in breadth to tlie westward of the Straufglinj,' islands ; the head terminates in low land, and a bank pxten<ls upwards of 2 cables from it ; close to the outer edj^e of the latter arc from 12 to 11 fathoms, where a vesstd may anchor. Coal harbour, 2 miles from the narrows, on the north side of West arm, is of square shape, from 3 to 1 cabli'S in extent, and afl'ords good anchorage near the middle in from 12 to 14 fathoms. The shore is bordered by a sandy beach, and at the head are some fresh- water streams. This anchorage is easy of access ; indications of coal have been met with in this vicinity. It was at one time \vorlce(l, to a small extent. Pot rocks, which Vw 2 miles VVcst from Coal harbour, and 15 cables from the north shore, are of small extent, and cover at three-quarti'rs flood. Straggling" islands, about .'> miles from the narrows, are a group of small islands and rocks extending upwards of half a mile from the north shore ; the depths among them and to the northwar;! are irregular; when passing them do not approach their south side nearer than 2 cables. Just west of them on the iu)rth shore is a small patch c)f swamjjv ground, through which flow some fresh Avater streams, and a bank extends one cable from it. Directions. — Entering Quatsino sound from the southward, give Reef point, its south-east entrance point, an ofRng of about 2 miles, and steer North till Bold bluff comes in line with the gap in the centre of the Surf islands, bearing N. by E. | E. (see page H77), which mark kei)t on will lead south-east of Danger rocks ; when the west side of R')bs()u island comes open north of Entrance Mount point in Forward inlet, bearing N.W. by W. l^ W., or Village islet on the east side of that inlet, is just touching Brown point, bearing N.W., a vessel will be well east of these rocks. If bound up the sound, round the north end of Surf islands, distant about half a mile, or if going to Forward inlet, steer about N.W. by W., taking care not to shut in the south side of Robson island with Entrance Mount point, until Bedwell islets come open north of l^old bluff bearing N.E , when she will be well north of Danger rocks. Pass frotn one to 2 cables ofl" the east sides of Low islets and Robson islantl, ana rounding the north point of the latter, at the same distance, enter North harbour, and anchor in from 4 to t) fathoms near its centre,* *5^?^' chart, No. 570. Chap. IX.] QUATSTXO SOUND, DIRECTION'S. as.') If intending to anchor in Winter harbour, whcMi abreast the north part of Robson island, steer N.N.W., keeping well over tot lie west^liore to avoid New bank (sw page 'M^), and when past it enter tlie iiarlxwir in mid -channel, anchoring in 11 fathoms about half a mile north of Grass point. Winter and North harbours are the b.'St anchorages in the sound, and easilj- available for sailing-vessels, which could beat into the latter, and from being .->itnated near the entrance their position is very advantageous. Bound to Koprino harbour, which can only be entered by steam- vessels or sailing-vessels with a fair M'ind, round the north-west point of Surf islands at about half a mile distant, and steer up the sound in mid-channel until al)reast the harl>our. If in a large vessel, go throu^'h the Pkst passage, keeping .'"t om one to 2 cables from Plumper island ; enter the anchorage on either side of Wedge island, and moor immediately the vessel is west of it (witli anchors north and south) ; a vessel may also enter by West passage, and anchor in 14 fathoms, southward of Dockyard island. When navigating the sound eastward of Koprino harbour the chart (No. r)82) is indispensable, but a mid-channel course siiould be kept ; large sailing-vessels shouM not, however, go eastward of that harbour, as the anchorages beyond are rather dilHcult of access for them. If wishing to anchor in Ilecate cove, enter it in mid- channel, passing north of Limestone island, and moor inuiieil: ,'ly inside the entrance points; the titlal streams run ffom out- to 3 knots abreast the entrance, and should In- guardeil ai,Minst. Going through the Quatsino narrows, kre|) well over to the iiorili shore, pass north of Hound island, round Turn point close to, and guarding against tidal stream, steer uji the narrows in mid-channel ; these narrows should only l)e attempted at slack water or with a favourable tide, unless in a full-i»owered steam-vessel. The best anchorage north of tlui narrows is Coal harbour, and if wishing to i^'o there, a nortl.-west course for 2 miles from the narrows will lead to its entrance, and a vessel may anchor ncai- the (■i'ntr(> in IVom 1"* to 14 fathoms. In na\igatinu the West arm keep well ovi-r to the souiii shore, when iii the vicinity of the I'ot rock and Stragglimr islands. From westward.— Faltering Quatsino sound I'roin the westward, keep an offing of about 2 miles, till fhitrance island bears N.?]. or N.E. by N., wdien steer to pass about 2 cal)les east of it, but not further off. When abreast ir haul to the northward, bringing SO 11948 Sir chartK. Noe. 570. 582. 2 1$ :?8G VANCOUVKR ISLAND, WEST COAST. [C'hai), IX. Pinnnolo islet in lino ^vith the east side of Low islets, bearing N.N.W. ^ W., and steer nj) with that mark on till Bedweli islets conu) well open north of Bold bluff, bearing N.P]., wheii enter Forward inlet, or procet'd further \i\) the sound, as l)efore directed. If, when coming from the southward. Pinnacle and Low islets can be well made out, a vessel by keeping the former in line with the east part of the latter, bearing N.N.W. 'I W., will pass 3 cables west of Danger rocks ; but as a rule it would be more prudent to pass eastward of them. If the weather be so thick that the marks for clearing Danger rocks cannot be distinguished, a seaman, if able to distinguish lOntrance isliuul, may ent«M" the sound by steering for it on a N. by K. or north-easterly bearing ; pass close to its east side, and haul to tlus northward when aiM'east it; by keeping half a mile on that coui'se, the vessel will be W(u' clear north-west of the Danger rocks, and may proceed anywhere up ihe sound. On a clear night in line weather a vessel may also enter in the above manner. There is room, witli a steady breeze, for a smart working vessel to boat into the sound to the southward and eastward of Danger ro'l- -• though without previous knowledge of the place it would be ratl^ r hazardous to attempt it. If o])Iiged to do so, when standing to the northward towards Danger rocks, tack when Hold bluff comes in line with the centre of the northernmost (wooded) Surf island, bearing N.N.E. h K- ; iuid, in standing to the east shore, tack when Bold bluff comes in line ^vith the south-(;ast extreme of the Surf islands bearing N. ^ E. or N. by E. When the south side of Robson island com<*s o[hui north of Entrftnc(> INIount point, N.W. bj^ W. X W., the vessel will be east ward of D.ingi^r rocks, and may stand furtlier to the northward. Bcsating between Surf islands and Danger rocks, tack at about ;i cables of the former ; and when standing towards (he latter keep Robson island open as bi-fore directed, till IJedwell islets comes open north of Bold bluff, N.K. ; if going to North harbour, when inside Fiu'ward inlet, guard againnl New bank. The COAST of Vancouver island from Quatsino sound to cape Scott, the north-west extrtMucMif the isla))d, takes a general W.N.W. direction ; it is mostly rocky and iron-bound, indented by several bays, most of which are small, and from the projecting points some rocks extend in some places nearly one mile fiom the shore. iS'/. ciiiiiis. Nds firii. r)M2. Chap. TX.] QUATSINO SOUND.— SAN JOSEF HAY. as 7 Caution. — When navigating between oai)e Scott and Quatsino sound do not approach tlio shore nearer than 2 niiU's. Rugrged point, 3 miles from Quat.sino sound, is a rocky, rugged point, of moderate height, witJi 12 fathoms at half a inile outsidt; it. Open bay, wliich lies just inside it, affords landing for boats in fine weather on its east side. The coast between Open bay and the entrance to Quatsino sound is high and cliffy ; some rocks extend nearly one mile from it. Top-knot point, 5 miles N.W. of Rugged point, is low, with a hill 800 feet high, shaped like a top-knot, just within it ; some rocks extend half a mile southward from it. Raft cove, 8 miles from Rugged point, is an hjhmi bigiil about one mile in extent, and affords no shelter whatever. Cape Palmerston, 11 miles N.W. from Rugged i)oint, is a bold rocky point rising to 1,422 feet ; some rocks extend half a mile from it. SAN JOSEF BAY, the entrance to which is 14 miles N.W. jrom Rugged point and 8 miles S.E. from cape Hcott, is an extensive open bay, 3 liiiles deep in a north-easterly direction ; the breailth at the entrance is nearlj 2 miles, narrowing gi-aduaily towards the head. Its shores are high, and off the south side are several oil-lying rocks ; the de])ths vary from 11 to 4 fathoms, but the bay affords no slielter except with northerly winds, and should only be used as a st(ipi)ing place in fine weather ; generally a heavy sea sets into it, and a sailing-vessel caught there witli a south-westerly gale would inevita- bly g(» on shore. At the south side of the head of the l)ay is a fresh-water stn^aui of consitleralilr si/f, which boats can enter at higii water, and lind shelter in. Directions. —I ntendiiiur to anchor in the hay, hring the enti-ance to bear N.K., and steer for it, anchoring in 7 or "•• lathonis near the middle, with thi' entrance ])oints l)earing South and West. Sea Otter cove, just west of San .losel' hay, is ahoul one mile long in a northerly dii'e(^tion, and from 2 to '.\ cables wide. There are 5 fathoms in the entrance, and from "i.'e to 3 fathoms inside it, also several rocks ; the shelter within is very indifferent, and the iVp uiiai't, No. iit*2. BO 11948 2 K 1> 388 VANCOUVER ISLAND, WEST COAST. [Chap. IX. place only fit for a coaster. Off its south-east entrance point, and separating the cove from San .Tosef Imy, are some small islets extending nearly one mile from the shore ; they are bare and yellow- topped, about 40 feet high, and conspicuous from the north-west. CAPE RUSSELL, 10 miles from Rugged point and immediately westward of Sea Otter cove, is a remarkable headland 870 feet high, and the outer part of a i)eninsula formed by Sea Otter cove and a small bay north-west of it ; some rocks, oxi which the sea breaks very heavily, extend nearly one mile south of the cape. From cape Russell to cape Scott the coast, from 500 to 600 feet high, trends in a north-westerly direction and is indented by three open Imys which are nearly one mile deep but afford no shelter whatever. Sec chart, No. 582. h, a ks let ee er 389 CHAPTER X. COAST OF BRITISH COLUMBIA (INNER CHANNELS)— QUEEN CHARLOTTF. SOUND TO SEAFORTH CHANNEL. Variation in lSi)S. Queen Charlotte sound, 2i° 30' E. j Seaforth channel, 25- 3U E. THE INNER CHANNELS, herein tlescrilx^d, of the staltoanl of British Columbia afford smooth water, together with anchorages for vessels of moderate length, at suitable distances. See pages IG to 18 for routes usually followed. These channels, therefore, offer facilities to steam-vessels for avoiding the strong gales and thick weather so frt^juenily met with in Hecate strait. They are also available for fore-and-afi schooners, when navigating between Vancouver island and Alaska. Unless directed to the contrary, the mid-channel cours* irf recom- mended to be kept when navigating these inner waters. CAPE CAUTION (Ka klees la), the north entrance point of Queen Charlotte sound, is of moderate height and level, the tojis of the trees being about £00 feet above the sea ; the shore is white, and of granite formation, with a few rocks off it ; the land norih-east of the cape rises gradually in a distance of ") miles to Coo-st nipple, 1,350 feet high, 2 miles eastward of which lies mount Robinson, 2,100 feet high.* Position. — Cape Caution is situated in latitude 51' 9 39' N., longitude 127^ 48' 5" W. SEA OTTER GROUP, consisting of several danjarerons rocks, islets, and shoals which cover a space of about 12 miles in extent north and south and 10 miles in an east and west direction, lies at a • See Admiralty charts : — Vancouver islaud, and view;*. No. l.i*17 ; «cale. »»^ol."> of an inch. Cap« Caution to port Simpson, southern portion. Xo. 1,92:} b : scale, m = 0-25 of an inch. ^90 C. CHARLOnrTE SOUND TO SEAPORTH CHANNEL. [Chap. i. distance of f> or 7 miles from the seaboard of British ColumVia, frontintr th^- ctatift bt'tween capes Caution and divert.* Dangrer ^hoal, on which the sea is reported to break in hearr weather, it* ihe s«>uthernmost outlying dan^'er of Sea Otter group, and lies 10^ mi!«^ W. by S. h S. from cape Caution ; near the centre oi this shoal a depth of 9 fathoms, rock.s and stones, was obtained, MiiL 22 fathom* cloise ai»and. Shoaler water pi-obably exists. The south ejctivmes of Egj? and Table islands in line, l>earinfr N.E. I N^ leads clear to the south-eastward of Danger shoal and aJJ other danfirers on the south-east side of Sea Otter group. Virgrin rocks, near the western limit of the group, consist of three Avhit* rrjHcks, the largest of which (.50 feet high) lies 17 milt* West from caj«e ranti.)n. Southward of these rocks the iiO-fathomt^ line is 4 milies. and in a westerly direction it is 6 miles distant :; rounding the nfic-ks to the westward do not stand into less ihan 30 fathoms. Watch, rock, 74 feet high and black, lies near the northern limit of the grouji. 7] miles N. ;{ K. from Virgin rocks. The rock is steep-to. Pearl rocks, the northernmost of Sea Otter group, comprise several roekt; above and below water, extending H miles in a uurih- west and stmth-«rai«t direction ; the largest rock (15 feet high) lie*; li miles E. l»y X. frr>m Watch rock, and the south-east rock, on which the sea al^-avs br>?aks, lies one mile S.E. by E. from the largest rock. Devil rock, the north-eastern outlying danger, lies 1} mil«p N.E. {i E. from the largt-s^t Pearl rock. The sea seldom breaks on Devil rock, and there is apparently deep water close around. New patch, on which the sea generally breaks, is nearly 2 mil^e in extent, and li»-«4i miles S. by E. fi'om the largest Pearl rock. Channel reeC the eastt-mmost danger of Sea Otter group, ha*; about (j feet over it at low water ; from the ceiitre of this reef Egg island bears E. } X,. distant 4/„ miles. The sea seldom breaks on Channel reef, and there are tJO fathoms close eastward of it. Addenbrooke Inland oi)€n of, and the east shore of Fitzhugh sound (beyond) shot in by, caj)e Calvert bearing N.N.W. ^ W., will lead midway lietween Channel reef and Egg island, and uj) to the * S'e Admirahr clii*Pt ; — Approaches to Fitzhugh and Smith souuds, No. 2,44<i ; Hcale, i»( ^ 1 V inch. :eBt on oil he Chap. X.] 8RA OTTKU (JllOrP.— SOUTH PASSAOE. 391 :T: I entrance of Fitzhufjh sound. Allowance .should ho made fur tidal streams: the Hood sets to th(! eastward into Qu; cii Cliarlotte and Smith sounds with a veh)city at spriiif^s of nearly "* knols. Hannah, rock, the south-easternmost outlyiiii,' dani^'cr, on which the sea nearly always breaks, is situated about 2-^ miles South of Channel reef; Hannah rock is awash at hif,'h water, ami from its centre, cape Caution bears E. i| S., distant «S miles. Caution. — Danji,'erous rocks have been reported as lyiiii,' in a S.W. by S. direction, ;') miles from Danji^er shoal, and oceuiiyi'if^' a space of 2^ miles in diameter, but their existence is iloiil)tful. SOUTH PASSAGE, leadin^.^ t(. Smith and Fit/.haf,di sounds from the soutliward, lies between cape (•aution and the south-east limit of Sea Otter f,'roup, where it is about 7 miles broad, ^sdth irregular depths varying from iJ-i to 71 fatlioms. Blunden bay, :i slight bend in the coast between cai)e Caution and Neck point, at 2 miles N.W. 4 N. from the former, is about one mile wide at its entrance, and nearly one mile dee]). Indian cove, which lies in the northern part of this bay, affords good shelter for boats; it is the rendezvous for Indians on their canoe voyages, when passing between Queen Charlotte and Fit/hugh sounds. Hoop reef, — From Neck point the coast trends N. by W. for 2 mih-s to Good Shelter cove, midway betwei'ii which li(>s Hoop reef, about one-third uf. a mih^ from the shore ; this reef is three-(jiiarters of a mile in extent north-west and south-east, and a quarter of a mile broad. South Iron rock, on which the sea seldom breaks, lies three- quarters of a mile westward of Hoop reef, and nearly 1] miles N.W. i W. from Neck po'nt. North Iron rock, which dries 7 feet, lies nearly in the fairway of Alexandra passage, three-quarters of a mile N.N.W. | \V. from South Iron rock ; there are 7 to 1* fathoms close to. Clearing marks, — False Egg island in line with West rock off Table island, bearing N. by W. J W., leads 4 cables west of South and North Iron rocks. The west extreme of Surf islet, and the small islands near the south point of Shower island in line bearing N.E, by N. leads through Alexandra passage, between North Iron and Egg rocks. &•<• chart, No. 2,448. 392 Q. CHARLOTTE SOUND TO SEAFOKTH CHANNEL. [Chap, X. EGG ISLAND, immediately fronting? Smith houiuI, and standing boldly out from the coast, in the prominent landmark between Goletas cliannel and Fitzhu},'h sound. The iHland is 280 feet hif,'h, covered with trees, and is remarkable for its epg-like shape ; it lies T) miles N.W. \ N. from cape Caution. From the south-west side of the i^!land rocks extend about one eal)le, and on tlie oast side is a small island, which is separated from Eg^ island by a narrow gully, giving the appearance of a split in the island itself, when seen from north or south. Egg" rocks, on the north-west side of Alexandra passage, are a cluster of rocks, lying nearly tln-ee-ipiarters of a mile W.N.W. from North Iron rock, and about 2 cables S.8.K. from Eu'g island ; these rocks exteiid about a quarter of a mile N.N.W. and S.S.E., the northernmost being )50 feet high. Denny rock, a sunken danger on which the sea seldom breaks, and a source of danger in thick weather, lies a ijuarter of a mile W.S.W. from the southernmost Egg rock. The west extreme of Ann sland open west of Egg island bearing N. by E. leads about 3 cables west I Denny rock. SMITH SOUND, <; miles N.N.W. from cape Caution, is about 8 miles long N.E. and S.W., with an average breadth of 3^ miles, the entrance between Jones and Long i)oints being 4.^ miles across in a N.N.W. direction. At (I miles within the entrance, on either side of a cluster of islands, is a channel leading into Smith inlet. In almost every part of the sound the depths are over 40 fathoms, and there is generally a heavy swell. The south-east shore of Smith sound, for 4 or 5 miles from the entrance, is skirted by several small islands and rocks having deep water close-to ; good shelter for boats will be obtained in a small cove about a quarter of a mile north of Jones point, the south entrance point of the sound ; also in a cove one mile south of Jones point, abi-east Egg rocks. The entrance to the sound is protected by a rocky plateau (Cluster reefs) and several islands, islets, and rocks ; some above, and many under water, prominent amongst them being Egg and Table islands. Access to Smith sound may be had on either side of these islands. } See chart, No. 2,148. Chap. X.] SMITH SOUND. im Alexandra passage, tho continuation of Houth passage into Smith Hound, lies betweun Kf,'j,' ishmd and the south-eaateru point of entrance, the narroweat part between Ejiff,' rocks and North Iron rock l)eins (') cal>le.s ; here as elsewhere, however, the dangers are so steep-to that tlie (jiiickest use of the U-ad is enjoined. A general leading mark through Alexandra j)aHsage (making allowance for heav«' of swell and tide) is the west extreme of Surf islet in line witii the islets near the south point of Shower islaud bearing N.K. by N. Beaver passage. — Tlie northern channel into Smith sonnd lies between the islands skirting the north imint of the sound, and Wood and White rocks, the northern and north-western extension of the above-mentioned plateau. In Beaver passage the bottom is irregular, 20 fathoms being the least dei)th obtained. The course through the passage is E. ^ S. ; the east extreme of Search islands, just oi)en of the west end of Surf islet on that bearing, leads in midway between John rock (on south side) and False Kgg island (on north side), where the width is (J cables. This western entrance to the passage being the narrowest part, with the usual amount of sea or swell good steerage and vigilant attention are required. White rocks, 35 feet high, and very conspicuous, lie in the west entrance of Beaver passage, at 'i\ miles N. by W. [ W. from Egg island, and nearly one mile N.W. of Cluster reefs. J it Jolin rock, — At 3 cables N.N.W. ^ W. from White rocks, and 7 cables S. by W. ;] W. from False Kgg island, lies John rock, which dries 3 feet at low water, with 'J to "iO fathoms close around, forming the north-western danger on the south side of Beaver passage. FALSE EGG ISLAND, resembling Kgg island in shape, but smaller, is 150 feet high ; it lies on the north side of Beaver passage, and is the outlying landmark for this northern entrance to Smith sound. James rock. — At about 3 cables W. } N. from False Egg island lies James rock, the exact position of which is somewhat doubtful ; the sea breaks on this rock at low water, and between it and False Egg island the bottom is foul. Sec chart, No. 2,448. 304 g. CHATlIiOTTR SOUND TO HRAPORTH CHANNEL. [Chap. X. The west pa; t of tlie hirf,'o Oaiu)^ rock boiirin^' North, or in line ■with Quoin hill (on Penrose island), jtasHes three «|narterH of a mile west ward of .TanioH and John rocks, and leads clear (westward) of all daiif,'((rs at Wui (^ntraiictf of SinKh s«uind. Table island, the larj,'est of the groiij) occupying tiie entrance to Smith sound, is about one mile lonj,' north and south, and half a mile broad, with the tops of the trees 120 feet above the sea, nearly Hat, but wlu'U seen from abreast cape Caution appears to have two hills. A (dustei- of rocks, several of which are covered at low water, extend half a mile from the west side of Table island, having 24 fathoms close to the outer rock. Ann island, altout Jiair a miK^ in extent, is separated from the north end of Table island by a channcd (one cable wide in some parts) in which shelter will bi^ found for boats. Cluster reefs, consisting of several rocky heads and shoal patches, extend from Table island in a northerly and north-westerly direction into the entrance t)f Smith sound. George rock, on which the sea l)r(;ak8 at low water, is the north- westernmost of the reefs, and lies one mile N. by W. | W. from Ann island. Edward rock dries 7 feet and lies K.N.K. nearly three-quarters of a mile from George rock. Wood rocks, which are awash at low water, situated nearly a quarter of a mile K. by N. from Edward reef, consist of three rocky heads, and are the north-easternmost of Cluster reefs. Bertie rock, with .^i fathoms water on it, lies near the eastern edge of Cluster reefs ; from the centre of this rock the north-west extreme of Ann island bears S.W. ^ S., distant nearly three-quarteis of a mile. The west extreme of False Egg island in line with Kelp head, bearing N. Jj- W., leads westward ; and Limit point midway between Long and Shower islands, bearing E. by N. f N., leads northward of Cluster reefs. Tidal streams. — Allowance should be made for tidal streams : the flood sets to the eastward into Queen Charlotte and Smith sounus with a velocity at springs of nearly 2 knots. *V'* chart, No. 2,448. Phap. X.] SMITH SOUND— TAKHSII HAHHOTTR. '.\[)ri LONG POINT, the north-wcrtt iK.int of Smith Honiid, lion K. hy N. three-quarterH of a milu from Fiilno Kf,'?? ishiml ; Tic ishuul, which is nearly a (piarter of a mile in extent, lies clone westward of Lon^' l)oint, and is separatitd from it hy a hoat i»assafj:e, in wiiieh there is a depth of 1 fathoms. Ada roeic, whieli is awash at low water, liew 2 cablea S.S.K. ^ K. from Tie island. Position.— LonK poiiit, lat. nr !'.»' N., lonj,'. Ii7 47' :'.0 ' W. Brown island, on the north-east sidn of l'.eaver i)artsa),'e, lies Haifa mile S.E. \ S. from Lon^ point ; the island is :.'")() feet hii^di, nearly half a mile Ions N.N.W. and S.S.K., and a (piarter of a mile broad, with 17 to 2'.\ fathoms close to its south point. Surprise patch, on the north sid(* of Smith sound, lies I :J miles N.E. by E. j K. from the south extreme of lirown island ; there is a depth of 5 fathoms on this patch, 7 to 1/ fathoms close anuind. Judd rock, AVith Uws than fi feet water on it, lies three-quarters of a mile N.E. by E. h K. from Surprise patch, and three-quarters of a milo W. by N. from T.on<,' island, tlu; largest of the IJarrier islands. Barrier islands, at the head of Smith sound, comprise several small islands covering a space of al)out .') miles in (extent N.K. and S.W. IMakeney i)as8age on the north, and drowning passage on the south side of these islands leading to Smith inlet, are each about one mile wide, with no bottom at a dei)th of 40 fathoms. A i-eef extends 4 cables E.N.E. from the east end of Central island. TAKTJSH HARBOUR, on the south shore of Smith sound, 6 miles within the entrance, is 2 miles long, north-east and south- west, and one mile broad ; and is the only anchorage to v/hich a ship can resort for shelter when crossing Queen Charlotte sound. Vessels of large si/e can lie securely here. The entrance is three-(}uarters of a mile wide, and has dejjths of 22 fathoms, rocky bottom, in the centre of Sli « )assage, which is 2.V cables wide, and is formed by Gnarled islauas on the west, and Fish rocks (dry 3 feet at low water) on the east side. There is an Indian village here of the Quascilla tribe, but the lodges are wretchedly constructed and the people miserably poor. * See Admiralty plan : — Takush harbour, on chart Approaches to Fitz Hugh and Smith sounds, No. '2,448 ; scale, m= TO inch. 396 Q. CHARLOTTE HOUND TO HKAPORTH CHANNRL. [Chap. X. Petrel shoal, on which thero iH a depth of If) feot, Hituated ono ciihUi H.S.E if K. from the caHterninost (inarh-d inland, iH thei)rincipal danger in rounding' into Anchor bight. Fly basin, at the head of Takush harbour, perfectly hmd-locked, in about one iniUi long E.N.E. and W.S.W., and one to 2 cables broad, with 2], to 3 fathoms in the western and (5 to H fathoms in the "astern part of tht^ basin. The entrance to Fly l)asin, which is altoiit one cable wide, is contracted to a (juarter of a cal)le by a shoal (ixtending from the east entrance point, with a rock (dry 2 feet at low wati'r), and a patch of 'J feet on its western edge ; between this shoal and the west entrance point there is a depth of t) fathoms. If re(iuired a small vessel could bo taken into Fly basin. Anchoragre in Takush harbour will be found in 10 or 11 fathoms, mud, in Anchor bight, midway between Ship rock and Steep point, with the north extreme of Bull point in line with Anchor islands, bearing N.E. by E. I E., and east extreme of liloxham point N. by E. ^ E. Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in Takush harbour at Ih. Om.; springs rise 14 feot, neaps 11 feet. Directions. — When bound to Takush harbour, it is recommended to pass through Browning passage, and, after })as8ing North point, keep the north extreme of Bright island a little open north of that point l)earing W. by S. ^ S., until Berry point (south side of Fly basin) appears midway between the entrance points of Fly basin, S.H, which will lead through Ship passage ; and when Steep point is well open of the southernmost Gnarled island bearing W.S.W. a course may be steered for the anchorage in Anchor bight, taking care to avoid the shoal ground south of Gnarled island, passing midway between Anchor and Gnarled islands. Good steerage is required here, speed should be proportionately slow, the leads kept quickly going, and the water not shoaled to less than 7 fathoms. SMITH INLET (Quas cillah), the continuation of Smith sound, is about 3 miles wide at its entrance, between the eastern part of Taiiush harbour and Dsoolish bay ; it is said to extend nearly 25 miles in an E.N.E. direction, and at about 9 miles from its entrance contract j to a general width of half a mile, the shores being formed of Idgh, See chart, No. 2,448. Chap. X.] SMITH JNLKT. - FITZ HUfUI SOUND, 397 rocky precipices covered with wood. The inlet has not I)een Hurveyed. The eiiHtern arm of Smitli sound has deep water, and no known dan;,'errt within. On the southern side of the entrance art' Hiiund and Dot ishmds, Ixilh wooded. Al>out ('• niihs up, on tiie southern shore, is cape Anne, eastward of which is Quashehi hay, visited hy Vancouver. A rock, which dries at h)w water, lies one cahhi E. by N. \ N. fioni cape Anne, with a depth of '.) fathoms ch)se t-astward. Quasliehi hay is reported to afford safe but confined aneh«)nif,'t' in the southern bight, in 22 fathoms. On the nortliern sliore, opposite capo Anne, is a land slide, and a thickly-wooded point faeinj,' westward, which has the appearance of a cone from a vessel poinf,' up the inlet. The vessels of the Hudson's Bay Company anchor in 45 fathoms, rocky bottom, with the stern warped to trees onshore, off the entrance of an inlet 1]^ miles east- ward of cape Anne; this anchorage is bad. A cannery is situated about half a mile up the inlet, from which scows brinf,' cargo down to vessels at the entrance. The coast from Long point txtends 2] miles N.W. by N. to Kelp head, from which Cranstown point bears N. l)y W. distant one mile. FITZ HUGH SOUND, the entrance to which lies.'! miles north- ward of Smith sound, is 3'.) miles lonj,' in a general N. N.W. and S.S.K. direction, having an average breadth of \\ miles. The shores are mostly bold and rocky, the slopes are woodi'd and steep, and the elevation of the peaks from 1,000 to 3,400 feet. The southern entrance to Fitz Hugh sound lies between Cranstown point (the south-east entrance point of Fitz Hugh sound and soutii entrance point of Rivers inlet) and cape Calvert, the southern extremity of Calvert island, which bears from Cranstown [)oint \V. }, N. distant i miles.* The sound at 4 miles north of Safety cove is contracted to I^, mihfi in width by Addenbrooke and adjacent islands, which lie on the east side ; the shores on both sides are, however, steep-to. and the depths in the channel from 80 to 140 fathoms. Tidal stream. — The flood tide runs to the northward. Srr charu, Nos. I,92:{ft. '2.44S. ?,98 Q. CHARTiOTTK SOUND TO SKAFOTlTFf CHANNEL, [Chap. X. Canoe, Spur, and Paddle recks Mo about one miU' off Kelp hoa<l, and c»ccni)y ^ space of 1^ mileH in a N.N.W. and S,S,K. direction ; the space thus ench)Hed being foni, and more or less covered with growing kelj). Oanoe rock, tlio centre and most prominent of these rocks, is bare, 2;') feet high, and stands bohlly out from the coast, making a good point for identification. Open bay, on tlic north-east side of Cranstown point, affords anchorage in 7 fathoms, about 2 cables from the shore, during summer or with olV-«hore winds, but there is generally a swell in the bay, and it is only used by local craft as a temjjorary anchorage. Cape Calvert, tlie south extreme of Calvert island, is the Httuthern teiiiiinaiion of Cape range. (2,()()() feet high) ; it presents a broail face (»f rocky coast extending in a north-east and south-west direction, al)out i'l'iO feet high, and covered with a thick growth of hemlock and pine trees. At 2 miles North of the cape is Entry cone (1,2(H) feet high), which is conspicuous, and forms a good mark for recognisijig Fitz HugJi sound from the southward and westward; cai)e Calvert is fronted by the Sorrow islands, which are steep-to, of granite formation, and covei'ed with gnarled ;Mid stunted trees; between these i> 'anils and tlie cap<! fair shelter may be found for boats in Grief l)ay (Telakwas), but during south-east or south-west gah^s, a swell is more »n' less experienced, rendering landing dillicult and sometimes dangerous. Indians resort to Grief bay when travelling, or engaged in hunting the sea otter. Those from the westwanl, bound for Fit/. Hugh sound, should uso North passage, between Sea Otter grouj) and Calvert ieland ; this passagt- is about i» miles wide, lledley patch with '.• fathoms water (possibly less) lies in tlu' west entranei^ to North passage, at i.i^ miles N. j W. from Waleii r(»(k. ("a|)e ('al\ert is silualetl in latitude .'d' 2;")' 0' N., longitude 127 .'»;') 0" \V. SCHOONER RETREAT (Ka pi liah), i.n the east side of Fit/, Jlugii sound, is the name given t«t tiie andiorages among a cluster of iulunds at the south-west jtart of IViirose island, which here separates Fit/, Hugh sound from Uivtirs inlet. The Retreat affords a secure sto])ping place, and with care may be safi'ly entered by steam- V(?ssels. Kaislake point (Joachim island) its south-eastern entrance jtoint, lies 7 miles N.K. J N. from Sorrow ishnul. The (.Vf cburt. No. ?,44s. Chap. X.] FFTZ HUdU SOtlVD,— SCHOONRU RKTRKAT. :v.ni entrance to Schooner Retreat trends in a N.N.E. direction from Karshike point, where it is about half a mihi wide, contracting,' to one cable between Sea bluff and flrey islets; insitlc tlie narrows to tiie eastward, it expands into Frignte bay.* Penrose island, v,-hich forms the northern protection to Sciiooner Retreat, lies in the mouth of Rivers inlet, a branch of the inlet I)as8ing on either side of it. Quoin liill, 880 feet high, is situated near its south end about three-quarters of a mile inland Joachim island, the south-easternmost and largest of the cluster of islands at the south-west end of Penrose island, is 400 feet liigh, l\ miles long north and south, with an average breadtli of half a uiiK) ; the north extreme of this island is Hei)arated fi-oiii I'enrost! island by a boat pat^sage. Ironside island, the eastern part of which is 200 feet high, is thf next in size, and is separated from Sea bluif, the north-west point of Joachim island, by the channel into Schooner Retreat. (Jny islets on the west side of the channel into Schooner Retreat, lie close off the south-east extreme of Ironside island. Safe entrance, between Joachim and IronsiiU* islands, tliice- quarters of a mile wide, has in the middle from 8 to J 7 fathoms water. On the west side of Safe entrance, about .')0 yards from (iriy islets, lies a rock avvash ; from it shoal ground extenils Ih cables in a northerly direction, with 2 to 3 fiithoms on it, and 4 to 10 fathoms close-to. Comber rock, on whi<di the sea often bn>Mks, is an outlying danger at the north side of Safe tMitraiic*' ; ilie locU coNt'i's at threw- (|\uirtfrs ll((od, and lies tliret;-(|u;irtfrs of ii (•al)lf S. by \V. from Surf point, lli'.! soutli-wfst oxti'emo of Ironsidf islaml. Frigpate bay, tlie Simthfrnmost andufr.ige in Schooner Ueln-iil, in about half a mile long north-east and sotilli-west, and a ijiiarter >>( a mile l>road, with depths of ',* to 2(' fathoms; u is foiincil b\ ihc junction of Joachim ami l'enr(»se i 'Hnds on llu south, east, and noitii, and is protected on the west by Ironside and Maze isliinds. Centre ilJet, in the north jyart of the i>ay, of small extciii, lies 2} (ablcs from the north end of Safe entrance ; a shoal with from 2 to '^ fathoms on it, extends for more than one cable from its east end * iV ( Ailiiiiiallv |iliiii Siiliiioiitii Ut<l.i'»>al, 1*11 nIiuu) ol i^Iuils hI' uiiuliurugt-N bit^Wfeti tiipi' •'Rutioii mill I'oit Miiapgnii, No. I.'.tyl ; »o«lt>, m -^ (J e iinlmei. 400 Q. CHARLOTTE flOUND TO SEAFORTH CHANNEL. [Chap. X. in a north-easterly direction towards Penrose island. There are several other islets and rocks in the eastern part of the bay, from which a boat passage leads into Rivers inlet. The best anchorage In Fr' *ate l)ay will be found just within Safe entrance, oil a clean windy l)each, in 13 fathoms, witli the northeast extreme of Ironside island bearing W. ^ S., and the north-west extreme of Sea blufE S. } W. Vessels should moor. Maze islands are a cluster of small islands on an extensive shoal projecting in a northerly direction from the north-east end of Ironsitie island ; the north-east prong of this shoal extends nearly across to Penrose island, leaving a narrow channel with h}^ to 9 fathoms water, which leads from Frigate bay to Secure anchorage. Secure anchoragre, north-west of Frigate bay, is about a quarter of a mile long north-east and south-west, and Ij cables broad, with depths of 9 to 11 fathoms ; it is protected from seaward by Ironside, Bird, and Highway islands, Verney passage, leading to Secure anchorage from the westward, between Ironside and P>ird islands, is nearly half a cable wide with 7 fathoms in mid-channel, but it is contracted to about 30 yards by the shoals on either side, and is only suitablw for small roasting vessels. Chance rock, at the entrance between Folly and Stunted islands, renders this passage dangerous. Directions. — When bound to Schooner iietreat at all times use Safe entrance ; from the southward. Quoin liill (<S<SO feet high) at the south part of Penrose island, should be brought in line with tlie hill 200 feet high, on the east end of Iroiisid*; island bearing N.N.K., this wilHead to abreast Karslake point, the west extreme of Joachim island, when Safe entrjince will be oi)en. After passing Karslake point steer very carefully and ])roceed at a moderate speed towards Sea Bluff point until Quoin hill is in line with Centre island bearing N. § K., which will lead through Safe entrance in mid- channel, and to the anchorage in Frigate bay. Galea.— I'M ring S.K. and S.W. gales the gusts are furious, but with good ground tackle aud care there is no danger in Scli«>oner Retreat. Tides.— It is high water, full aud change, in Schooner Retreat at Oh. 30m. ; springs rise M feet, neajis 1 1 feet. iSv chart. No, l,!«»|. Chap. X.] SCHOONER RETREAT.— RIVERS INLET. 401 RIVERS INLET, the shores of which have not been surveyed, lias an entrance on either aide of Penrose ishind, but it is not known whether they are clear of danger. The inlet runs about 12 miles in a northerly direction, and then !(• miles north-eastward to the mouth of Wannock river. Zero and Black rocks are dangers at the entrance of the inlet , the former is a small rocky islet, composed of white liniestoiK', al)out 1') to 20 feet above higii water, and about 2 cal)les in extent ; the latter is a low, smooth, black rock, about 50 yards long, and 3 or 4 feet high ; with foul ground between it and the island to the lujrtliward.* A rock, with a depth of •! fathoms on it, lies with Zero rock centre bearing N.E., distant S cables. Pass north-west .vard of Zei'o rock, and south-eastward of Black rock, about one cable off eacii, in deep water. Schooner ))assage, the entrance to which from Rivers inlet is on the western shore, al)ont 10 miles up the inlet, and westward of Walbran island, has doo]j water, with low and densely-wooded shores. Tliis passage has an uniform l)readth of about 2 cables, and is fre<iuently used by the Hudson's i^ay Company's steam-vessels ; but it is not suitable for vessels more than 240 feet in length. There is a siinken rock at the western entrance of the passage, to avoid which sharj) turns are necessary ; and the northern shore should bo kei)t very close aboard. A rock lies 70 yards off shore on the western side of the northern entrance. Good anchorage is reportt^d in the north-western bight, in 10 to 20 fathoms, where the inlet turns to the eastward. Wannock cannery is on the northern siiore abou; miUs eastward of this bight. At the mouth of Wannock river the village O^^eekayno is situated on both sides, and a saw-mill, cannery, and ;i wooilen church are on the south side. The water is too deep for ancliorage off )weekayno. The least v\ater on the bar of the Wannock :s 7 feet at low water abreast the cliurch, and the mark for entering is to keep a land slip, the middle of three situated about one mile soulh-^Vl stward of the church, bearing S.S.W. ;| W. astern. There is a wharf at tlie saw- mill with a depth of 12 feet alongside. A mail steamer calls at the establishments in Rivers inlet once a month. Swan Rock is about a quarter of a mile in length W. by N. and K. o^s H., with depths of 1| fathoms on it, and lies with Lone island centre bearing East, distant IVo miles ; and Entry cone S.S.W. Addenbrooke island. — At about H miles N.W. from Karslake point lie a grou]) of islands off the eastern shore of the sound abreast L'. Addenbrooke, tlie westernmost of thegn J pel ,St:r uharta, Nob. l,^2ib, 2,44». liSO 11946 2g 402 Q. CHARLOTTE SOUND TO SEA FORTH CHANNEL. [Chap. X. islands, extenfls westward into the sound narrowinpr the width of the passapo between it and Calvert island to about If miles. SAFETY COVE (Oat so alls), on the west shore of Fitz ITuph sound, 7 miles northward of cai)o Calvert, is about one mile long W.S.W. and E.N.K., and nearly half a mile wide at its entrance, westward of which the shores of the cove extend parallel to each other at 2 cables ai)art ; tluTc are (lei)ths of to 17 fathoms within half a cable of its shores, and 14 to 19 fathoms, soft mud, in the middle of the cove ; a bank of sand and mud which dries, extends '.) cables from the head with 7 fatlnmis close to its edge.* The shores, excejit near the h<'a<l are high, rocky, and steep-to, rising to an elevation of al)ont 1,000 feet. There is a conical ])eak at the head of the cove* which beurs W. .', S. from the middle of the entrance. North i-ntrance point of Safety cove has two small islets lying off it, which are useful in iilentifying the entraiice, especially when coming from the northward. Anchorag'e. — Good anchorage will be obtained in 13 fathoms, mud bottom, in the middle of Safety cove abreast a waterfall on the north shore. Entering at night, keep in the middle of the cove, and keeping the lead going anclioi- as soon as 17 fathoms are struck, inuring south-east or south-west gales, strong gusts blow across the valley at the heatl of this cove. Water. — The stream which flows into the head of Safety cove affords excellent water, but is difficult to obtain by boats. The waterfall on the north shore, unless in exceptionally dry weather (August and September), will afford a good 8up])ly. Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in Safety cove, at Ih. (hn., springs rise 14 feet, neaps 11 feet. Kwakshua passage, between Calvert and Hecate islands, 7^ miles north of Safety cove, leads to the sea ; this passage is only partially examined ; it has, however, been used by coasting vessels. (.SVv i)age l'.)-2.) Hakai channel is .")J, miles north of Kwakshua, between Hecate island and the smaller islands lying off the south side of Hunter islanil, leading to sea. Vancouver reached the sea by this passage in 1792. {See page 492.) GOLDSTREAX HARBOUR, at the south-east entrance point Arcliart. No. \,<.)2:\h. ' Sir A Imiriili}- i.luH :— SidVty oove, on slitntt of plniiJ* .if anuhorage. bt^tween oape Caution and port Simpson, No. 1,901 ; soak'. »»= } inches. Chap. X.] PITZ HUGH SOUND.— NAMU HARBOUR. 403 111., els. in int ipe of Hakiii channel, affords good accommodation for small vessels ; it is about 2 c.iblos long north and south, and 2 cables broad, with depths of 7, lo 15 fathoms, sand ami mud. The entrance to this harlxnir from Fit/. Hugh sound is through an intricate passage little over half a cable wide, between the north extreme of Hecate island which forms the south shore, and an island about one mile in extent whicii i')rms th(! north side of Goldstrcain harbour.* Foul ground marked by k«'lp, extends one cable from Kelp point, the north entrance point of the harbour. Evening rock, which dries 3 feet at low water springs, lies near the middle of the {lassage about 2 e-ables within the entrance fm the north side of the channel ; it would, therefore, be advisable, in the absence of i^ood local know- ledge, to jjlacf a boat near this rock (when covered i before entering or leaving the harboui', and proceeding at slow speed, keep in mid- channel, where there is a general tlepth of (*> fathoms. Tides. — Ii is high water, full and change, in Golilsiream harbour at Ih. "m. : springs rise 15 feet, neaps 12 feet. Nalau island, separating Nalau and Hakai }Kissages, is 4.^ miles long north and south, 15 miles wide, and tioO feet high ; it is situated between Hunter and Hecate islands. Nalau passage, l miles north-westward of Hakai, is an on- fxplored channel leading to sea. (See page -I'.U.) NAMU HARBOUR, at the south entrance of Barke channel and one mile south of Edmund point, on the east side of Fitz Hugh sound, lies (j miles N.E. by N. from Nalau passage, the intervening east shore of Fitz Hugh sound being abrupt and Ixdd. It is three- quarters of a mile long. E.N.E. and W.S W., and three-quarters of a mile broad, with depths of 20 to 28 fathoms ; at its entrance lies Kiwash, a round island, 200 feet high, a ipiarter of a mile in diameter, and covered with trees. t South passage, between Kiwash and Plover islands (15*^ feet high) the latter forming the south entrance point, is nearly half a mile wide, with 23 to 28 fathoms ; North passage, between Kiwash and f'liir islands, on the northern side of the harbour, is .3 cables wide with 35 to 18 fathoms. Namu harbour may be entered either by North or South jiassage. ,W chart. No. l.'.»2:U. • .St Ailmiralty plan : — Goldstreani harbour on sheit of plans of anchorageH Imtween cape Caution and pott Simpnon. No. l.'.Hil : -icalf. tii = «;i» inchei^ + >' >• Adininilty plan : — Xamii narlxiui' on shi ct if jilaii- of anrhnraeen between cape Caution ami port Simpson. No. I.'JUI ; sculo, m = -to incbi-- SO lltfji 2C i ! li 404 Q. CHARLOITE SOUND TO SBAPORTH CHANNEL. [Chap. X. From the north side of Namu harbonr two inlets indent the land about on*- mile' ; the w.'.stern is named Harlef|uin basin, the oiiLwu which is chok«-»I with rocks, is called Hock cn'ek. At the niomh trf the latter is Whirlwind hay, its entrance lieinj? marked by two r.ujuU islands. Sanday bland to the northward, and Clam island to tin- southwani a qnarter of a mile apart. Two or !> miles enetward uf the haHxmr a chain of mountains from 2,(500 to ll,:j(K/ feet hich extends in a X.X.E. and S.S.W. ilirection for (> miles. Anchorage. — Lirsze vcssids sliMuld anchor in 20 failioms. in i.Ih- centre uf X;tiaju h;(rlx»iir, witii ti)i' north extn'ine of Ki'Aasb island Ijearin? West, ami the west extreme of Plover islaml S. Ir.- K. Small vessels may anchor in Whirlwind bay in 12 fathoms, clay, with tbf north extreme of Kiwash ishnid bearing.' W. by S., antl the o.^nxre td Clam island South. During iheaatumn and winter months the anchorage in Whirl-wind bay is not n-c*»mmended, as furious gusts blow over the moumaim* (;>.(>< 'Ofeet hishi in its vicinity. Thisanchorage is moreover confined l»y Loo roc-k- on which there is only '.) feet water, lying nearly in ili*- mi(Mle of th*- lx3T, 2 cables K. by N. | X. from the south extreme oi Sunday island. It is recommended not to bring Sunday island tn bear westwanl of W.X.W. when entering Whirlwind bay. There is a iarr»- i^itn-am and an old Indian camp in Whirlwind bay. Tides, — It i* hiirh water, full and change, in Xaniu harl>oui ai Ih. Om. ; spriiurs ris«e !.'► feet, neajjs ]2.\ feet. BURKE CHANNEL, an inlet on the east side of Fit/. Hiurh sound, '.\ laile^ n»>rthward of Namu harbour, leads to Heia kuia anchoratre at the head of Xorth Bentinck arm, a distance of .jf* mi]«ti in a general north-easterly ilirection, from its junction with Fit* Hugh soand- Borke channel lies between high, precipitous, rocky mountains, the suh^ of which are covered with stunted i)ine treeh. and mostly snow-capped, becoming more lofty as the head uf the inlet is approon-hetl. Hurke channel and Bentinck arm, though nui surveyed in detail, have been frequently traveised both by day and night.* Edmund point, the south entrance point of Burhe channel 'i^ low and wooded, and hasi several small islands south of it, lying ufi • &•« chart. No. 1,923*. f i i Chap. X.] NAMU HARBOUR.— HURKE CHANNEL. 405 an indentation, wliicli has the appearance of afl'()nlinf» sheltered anchorage. Some small islets also Hi' in the channel, eastward of Lidmund point. Walker point, tiie north entranc*' point to the chainiel, is formetl by an island situated 2 miles N.W. from Edmund point ; this island is steep-to, but at 2 cal)les the water is not deeper than 2(') fathoms, mud bottom, deepening quickly a short distance further ; a positi</n which might be used for anchoring in a fog. Temporary anchorage, north of Walker point, might on emergency, with care, and sending a boat aheatl, be taken up, but there are many covering reefs. The first reach of Fku-ke channel takes a N.N.K. li K. direction for 5 miles, and thence N.K. '^ K. for 1)1 miles, tlie first part being a little over one mile wide, but the latter part only three-quarters of a mile across. The titlal streams are strong in this reach, and several heavy tide rips are met with; but for the remainder of the distance to Bela kula they are not much felt. Immediately facing the eastern end of this reach is a bay which might possibly afford anchorage. The sea water here is lirackish. Restoration bay (Tsekwai), at 1 miles from the N.K. point of the first leach is situated innni'diatdy under a high, conical mountain, and has a sandy beach at its head, off which, at liaif a mile, is a depth of 40 fathoms shoaling gradually to ',) fathoms close to the shore. Several small streams enter the cove. Anchorage may be taken up in IS fathoms at about II cables fr tm low water mark: the sho.e should be approached very slowly when coming to an anchor, as the bank is extremely stee])-to and the water shoals very suddenly. The second reach of Uurke channel trends N. by W. for KH miles, ending abreast a 1»av, wooded point at the foot of a high mountain ; thence the channel takes a N.X.E. 4 E. direction for 12 miles, another arm (Kwatna) branching olf S.E. At one cable fnnn the soulh-west point (Mapalaklenk) of entrance to this arm is a rock, which uncoscrs at low water : it is the only known dangi-r in lUirke channel, and inay be avoided by keeping the north shore aboard Hence the channel takes a N.E. ] N. direction for 4 miles along the base of a remarkably bare, stony mountain situated on the south shore, which is almost entirely devoid of vegeUition. Thence the See chart, No. 1,9236. 406 Q. CHARLOTTE SOUND TO SEAFORTH CHANNEL. [Chiip. X. channel trends N.N.E, for miles, at which (listinu!e Dcane channel branches off N.W., Burke channel continninj,'' for 7 miles N.K. by E. i E., to Menzies point (Taliuko), in hit. 5:2'' IS' 30" N., where it divides into the north and south Jleutinck arms, the fornn-r takiuj,' a N.E., the latter a S.E. direction. North Bentinck arm is S miles long, and just within the entrance, on the north shore, is a small b.iy atl'ordini,' anchorage for small craft. The head terminates in a sand and mud Hat fronting low, swampy ground, covered with grass, which is submerged at high water. The inlet is here If'^ miles wide. Bela kula at the head of North Bentinck arm,all"ord8 inditl'erent anchorage close to the mud flat at the mouth of the river, on the south side east of Sutlej point. When taking nyi a berth, great care is required. A large vessel should moor in 45 to 50 fatlioms, as the bank is very steep-to, deejjening from one to IS fathoms m a distance of 200 feet; a stern anchor may also be i'e(juired, or a liawser laid out to the shore will be useful for keeping the hawse clear. Small vessels may find shelter during summer, on the north shore under Custom house point. The country abounds in fur-bearing animals.* Bela kula or Nookhalk river is a stream of considerable size and velocity, the deposit from which has formed the steep bank at the head of the inlet. The water is quite fresh alongside, and if i)umped in at low water is fit for drinking. There are also several good places for watering at, on the north shore, opposite the anchorage, a boat being able to go underneath the waterfalls. There is a Norwegian Settlement here. Tides. — It is high water, at full and change, at noon ; springs rise 13 feet. Winds. — The prevailing wind in Bentinck arm in summer is from south-west ; the westerly winds of the ocean blowing across Fitz Hugh sound being led up the inlet as through a funnel following the direction of the diU'erent bends. The breeze generally sets in about 10 o'clock in the forenoon, and blows fresh imtil sunset, when it usually falls calm. South. Bentinok arm.— From Menzies point, South Bentinck arm branches S.P]., about one mile in breadth, with high land on both .Sy' chart. No. 1,923 J. • See Admiraltj- i)lan :— Bela kula anflioniye on sheet of plans. No. 1,462 ; aoale, m = 4*0 inches. Chap. X.] BURKK CHAN'XKL.— IMsnER CHANNEL. 407 ', II sides, for aboul 20 milen. At '.) milos t'roin Mcnzies point an ifelanil lies on tiie easti-rn sliorc. Tlu! hoacl ol' the arm is reported to be .shallow, .') and V2 fathoms, but it has not l)een surveyed and is seldom visited. Kiltik. — From Nalau ijassage the coast of Hunter island extends 12 miles in a N. by W. | W. direction with only two openings, the northernmost of these named Kiltik on the west sidtM)f Fitz Hugh sound, oppositf Kdmund point, is a narrow creek (less than 2 cables), extending nearly one mile in a westerly direction, with an average dei)th of 20 fathoms in the centre, but shoal for one-third of a mile from its head. This creek, it is supposed, might be used by moderate sized vessels, but has not been examined in detail. The Trap. — At \',\ miles northwanl from the south-eiistm-n point of Hunter island a small islet lies off an imlentation of the coast, forming what has been termed the Trap. Strangers migiit be tempted to enter this opening ; it is, however, extremely contracted, not affording room for a steam-vessel to turn, and dangers are sujiposed to exist in the passage round the islan-', it should therefore be avoided. FISHER CHANNEL, the continuation of Fit/. Hugh sound northward from the entrance to Burke channel, leads to Lama and Gunboat passages on the west, and to port .John and Evans arm on the east. At 15 miles from Walker point Fisher channel divides into two, .Johnson channel taking a N.N.W. uiid Cousins inlet a North direction ; the former at a distance of '.) miles splitting into several arms (Koscoe and Sisters inlets on either side of Florence peninsula and Bullock and Kllersiie channels on either side of Yeo island). Bullock and Kllersiie channels communicate with Seaforth channel {see page 41:5), and from the north point of Yeo island, at their northern junction, the main inlet continues northward for a further distance of 10 miles to about hit. .')2'' M' N. These channels north- ward of Gunboat passage have not been surveyed in detail, and Bhould, therefore, be navigated with caution. Fog rocks, situated rather on the east side; of Fitz Hugh sound and ;i miles Nwth of Walker point, consist of six rocks above watt-r, flat and of a whitish cf>lour, tlie highest of which is 25 feet high, with a few shrubs on it ; close to the southernmost rock several small black rocks uncover at low water. These rocks (which appear nearly in mid-channel from the southward) may be passed on either side, 2; net uhart, No. 1,^236. 408 Q. CHARLOTTE SOUND TO SEAKORTH CHANNEL. [Chup. X. but the muin route lies westward of them, piiflBiii}; thcin at about half a mile. Walbran rock, with 12 feet on it at low-wati-r sjirin^' tidt's. ami 4 to 10 fathotriH clow* around, lies with the Houtii-cast extreme of Pointer island at the entrance of liaina passage, bearinj,' \V. by N. -J N. distant 2,f cables, and Brend point N. by K. ,| E. Tidal streams. — About midway between Fo^' rocks ami Lama passage the Hood tide from the northward meets that frt)m the southward. PORT JOHN.— At 4 miles North of Lama paasaj^e. on the eastern shore of Fisher channel, is an indentation, in the northern pari of which, immediately under Remarkable cone mountain, 2,302 feet hij^^h, is port John, southward of which is Fvans arm, into which there are two ])assages on eithei- side of Matthew island, 3(50 feet high, which lies at the entrance to th»i arm. The south passage is half a mile wide, the north passage is only one-liiird of a mile wiile, and this near the east end is contracted to 1 .', cables by a rock lying in the centre.* Port John (of Vancouver) affords anchorage in 20 fatlioms, l)ut is much ccmfined by Mark rock nearly in tlie middle, covering at half Hood, and by a Hat extending off the stream at its head. Thent is also anchorage at the head of Evans arm in 20 fat' oms, whicli may be reached through South passage, but the immediate approach to it north of Boot island is foul, and a large vessel should be preceded bj' a boat. North passage should only be used after temporarily buoying Peril rock, which has 12 feet water on it, and lies nearly in the middle of the eastern part of the passage. Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in port John, at Ih.Om. ; springs rise 13 feet. DEAN CHANNEL leads out of Cousins inlet to the N.N.E., in which direction it extends for about 12 miles, and there divides into three branches ; one (Cascade inlet) taking a north-west direction ; another (Labonchere channel) to the south-east, and communicating with Burke channel (see page 404) ; the other, main inlet, extending in a north and north-east direction, with an average width of one mile for a distance of IS miles, when it turns to the N.N.W. for 9 miles, terminating in low marshy land in about lat. 52° 52' N.f * 6># Admiralty chart : — Lama passage and Seaforth channel, No, 2,449 ; scale, m E= 1 '55 inches. t<aw chart, No. 1,9236. Chap. X.] PORT JOHN.— LAMA PASSACK. 40J) Kimsquit.— liound for Kiinsquit iit th»> hcinl of the channel, round Ruphoo point at thti diHtunc*' of a quarter of a mile and sti'cr up niiil-cliannel. As thi' lu-ad is approached the viUas« of Kiinsquil. and the river and sand-i»ank olV its entrance, will lie seen on tiic eastern sidt! ; two miles ahove the river the iidet is contracted to ahoii* one mile in breadth hy two low spits, ('i)ntinue mid-cliaiuiel hetvt'cen these spits and haul into the hay on the east shore, where anchoraj^e will he foinid, ol!" a p(d)l)ly beach, in 4t> fathoms, witli a larj^e l)ouhler on the north t'lid of the beach Ijcarin^ N. ;j \V., and the north-west point of the bay West. Cascade inlet, so named by Vancouver, from the nuinl)er of wateriall.s, extenils in a north-west ilirection for about 11 miles witli an average wiilth of thi'ee-(juarters of a mile. It, in common with the other branches of Dean channel, has not l)een surveyed in detail ; its shores are comjmsed of ])recipici's, and sesi'ral large cascades come down from the high mountains tiiai overlook it. LAMA PASSAGE, between Hunter and Denny islands, is the main passage connecting Fisher channid (the northern continuation of Fitz Hugh sound) with Seaforth chaiintd and Millbank souml ; its eastern entrance on the west side of Fisher;'hannel, (I miles North of Fog rocks, may be recognised l>y a conical mountain 1,000 feet high, on the north-east point of Hmiler island, and by Pointer island, on the south side of this entrance, where it is nearly one mile wide. Thence the passage tr-ntls Wi'St '2 miles to abreast Ser}»ent point on the south shore, the breadth being about half a mile, and the depths KiO fathoms in the middle, 2.') and 2(1 fathoms near the shores ; it then widens and trends 4 miles W.S.W. to abreast Twilight point (the south-west point of Denny island.* The entrance to Plumper channel {^see page 41).")), which is one mile wide, lies opposite Twilight point, from which Lama passage turns to the north-West between Denny and Campbell islands, for 4 miles to Grave point, which has several Indian graves on it. The north shore of Lama passage is bold, and a rock awash is reported to lie about one cable olt'-shore, W. ^ N. from Serpent point. The southern shore, after the first 3 miles, is penetrated by a number of indentations, some of which afford shelter. * iSce Adimralty uhuri;— Laiiia patwagt- and Seafoith chauuel, No. 2,44y scale m :3 1*56 iucheu. w 410 Q. CHARLOTTE WOUND TO SKAFOltTH CHANNKh. [Chap. X- ' Jii I J COOPER INLET, ►utuated on tho Houtliorn nhoro of Lama puHHiipt', ') 111. s from the uarittsrn <'iitraiict', is tlcei), and en itains HDvenil Hmall cm-kH, the indentationH already nuMitioiu'd, otV which lie a uinnher of islets an(i rocks, in line wcatluT auchora^t' may be ol)tain('d in 14 fathoms uniU'r Westminster point. Jane creek, in thtt south-east corner of Cooper inlet, may be used by small vessels. (Jluu'les point, its north point, has two reefs extending' one cable I'roin it in a north-westerly direction, the outer of which dries K fei't. Good auchora^'e may he had in this creek in '.( fathoms, with Charles point in line with the east point of Canal bi^'ht (on the opposite shore of the passage) bearing N.W. } W,, and George point, the south entrance point of .Jane creek, l)earing S.W. l)y W. Large vessels may anchor in about IS fatiioms midway between Charles tind George points ; the l)ottom in this creek is mostly rocky. Camp Island, lying close to the south-went extremity of Denny isliind, and the turning point into the northern part of Lama ptissage, should not be rounded nearer than half a mile, as the bottom is foul for .'5 cables in a south-easterly direction from it, with patches that uncover 2 feet at low water springs. McLaughlin bay, on the west shore of Lama passage, half a mile south of Grave point, is a good stopping place ; it is about 4 cabU'S wide and 1{* cables deep, with 8 to 14 fathoms water. The south point of the bay has a bare hill 150 feet high, wiiich in tliick weather is an useful guide to a stranger. The anchorage is in 11 fathoms oil the centre of the beach about one cabli' from the shore, with Grave point open east of south-west point of Narrows island bearing X. ] \V., and Archibald point open east of Napier point bearing S.E. by E. A spit runs of with Bare hill bearing West, Anchorage should be taken up well to the southward of the church.* In this bay is the site of an old Hudson bay trading post ; there is a smidl (juantity of cleared ground at the foot of a rocky hill 200 feet high, a quarter of a mile from the beach, on the west side of which there is a lake. This is the only Indian winter residence between Queen Charlotte sound and Seaforth channel. Sre chart, No. 2,441). • ffce AdmlrJilty plan : -McLaughlin bay, on sheet of plans of anchorages between cape Caution and Port SSimpaou, No. 1,901 ; scale, m =6*6 inchea. nhq). X.] COOPKU INLKr. — KlilK TSO ATM IlAllUOUll. Ill Tho Ilcllii Mfllii mitivi'H miK'nitod here liotn Hdlii IJcllii iHliirulM in IStlS ; ;in Amt'riciin iiiirtsidiiary now n'sidfs here, ami tlu-rc is a Huiall church anil school-hoiiHc. A rock irtsai'l, from Tnilian report, to exist in liatna i)aHHai.'»' abreast Mcliauj^'hiin hay, ami to lie half a calde from the eastern sliore, with Xapier point hearing S.S.K. distant nearly t) cables; tliis reported danf,'er has been r.e.Tched for without success by several of H.M. ships. <j'his jtissaf^o was frecjueMlly used liy the lii'irn- durin;,' the survey, and thouf,di nut then found tiie ruck may exist, and constHiuently the wostern iJhoro should be favoured. Tides. — It is hi^'h watev at full and chan^'e in Mcl^aughlin bay at Ih. dm. ; spring's rise ii feet, ncajjs H to ll» feet. Bella Bella islands lie threc-(iuarters of a mile north of (Ji-ave point, bari' and about l.'> feet hij,'h. Temporary anchora^'e may lie had to the t-astward of Bella Hella islamls olf a green l)usiiy Mat. KLIK TSO ATLI HARBOUR, ou thi- north side of Denny island, and 1,';, miles east of Hella Hella islands, is al)out one mile in extent, with dei)ths of '.) to \'.\ fathoms, and all'ords excellent she'ter for vtissels of any size, ilarljour island, olf the north-west point <»f Klik tso atli, has a retd" extendinj? one cable from its east end. Staamer passagre. — 'I'he channel south of Harbour island is one cable wide, with a deptli of 7 fathoms, and is suitable for sniiill vessels ; large vessels are recominencled to pass north of Harbour island and throu.rh Wheelock pass, which lies Ijetween a iJ-fathoms patch near the centre of the chanm-l and Noble point, tlu' north-cast entrance point of the harbour, from which a :5-fathoms shoal extenils three-quarters of a cable in a south-westerly tlirection. The west extreme of Cypress island in line with the i-ast extreme of Meadow island l)earing X.N.W. •/ W., leads through Wheelock i)ass in 11 to 1'.) fathoms, and when Harbour island bears West anchor in 12 fathoms. There is secure anchorage in 15 fathoms, with Harbour island i)earing S.S.E. \ E., distant 15 cables. Ka kOOSh dish creek, just north of Noble point, and extending 1\ miles in an easterly direction, is suitable for small craft, but is barred across by kelp, over 3^ fathoms. There is an Indian hshing station at the head of this creek. See chart, No. 2,449. 412 Q. CHARLOTTE SOUND TO SKAi-'OUTH CHANNEL. [Chap. X. Main passagre, loatlin^' from hnma \)HHHHfiv to Sciiforth cliiiniu'l, Itctwei'ii tlie iiorlli-t'aHt t'xticiiu' of ('iiinpl)i'll .iml Niirrows iwlaiuls, is tlirc»f-(iuartt'rs of a mile lon^' X.N.K. and S.S.W., and from 2 to 2^ cabli'S \vid«', witli depths of :2(t to ;{(• fathoms in it. Can; tshouUl !•«' taken to maintain a miil-clianncl conrsc, and in thick weather muelj caution must he ohscrvt-d, as tiie tidal streanjs an- very Htronji. Narrows island, sitnated abont three-tmarters of a mile North of l^clla Rella islands, is three-ijuartt'rs of a mile lonfr K.N. E. and W.S.W., and ni>arly lialf a mill- broad ; at one cable from the soutli sid(; of Narrows island there is a ledfje of rocks awash at hiifh water, with 5 fathoms close to. Pole and Tree islets, sitnated abont a (piarter of a mile from the east extreme of Narrows island, are two small islets 2 cables apart in a north and sonth direction from each other; 'L'ree islet, the northernmost, is I'lO IV-et hijjfli, with a detachetl rock close to its north-east side. There are two ro(;ky ledfj;es between these isletH and Narrows island. Hodg^es reef, w' ich tlries 2 feet at low water si»rinjj;8, with t! and 7 fathoms .-lose-to, li(>s nearly in mid-clianntd l)etween Tn-e islet and Deer island, t lie lattfi' lyin^' I cables east from the fornuT. From this reef the ctMitre of Tree islet bears West distant 2 cables. Meadow island, lialf a mile ion;; N.M. and S.W., lies 2 cables S.K. of I'ole islit. In the channel In'twi-en them are depths of '» to ir» fathoms, .d a reef lies half a cal)le from the north point of Meadow island. Deer and Cypress islands li*' eastward of the abovu islands, and are joinetl at low water ; the former is half a mile long in a X.W. and S.K. direction ; the latter one mile long K.N.K. and W.S.W. Gunboat passag'e, between Denny and Cnnningham islands, is narrow a!id intricate, containing many locks and kelp patches ; in s<»me places the t haniiel is not more than half a cable wide. From its western entrance it trends about K. by N. for (5 miles, thence North for 2 miles to its eastern entrance, which is at the junction of Fisher and Dean channels. Gunboat passage shouhl not be j'ftempted unless in small handy steam coasting vessels and with good local knowledge. St)« ohut, No. 2,41tf. Cbap. X.] LAMA PASSAGE.— i^EAPORTH CHANNEL. 4i:^ SEAFORTH CHANNEL, the muin clumiu'l connectinpr l^ima pasaivf^o with Milbank ^;.iiiti(l, betwetMi (Jiimphcll island, and tho Bardrtwoll group on the south, and Ciiatfi(^ld, Y«m), and Don islandfl on the north, in It miles lon;jr K. by N. and W. l)y S. with an avcraffo breadth oi one mile ; the land on both sides is mueh broken by islands with ehanntds i)et\vern Iciidiiv^ north and souiti ; tlie water is LTenerally de(*|), and witli \\ir Ailmiralty charts then' should be no dillicnlty in navif?atinj,', in ordinary weather. On the north side IhrtM- arms briinch oft northward ; Deer ptissage, tho eastern, between Oiinnini,'ham and Hhatfiidd islands, is a1)oiit 7 miles lontr, and commnniciites with .Johnson '^lianiici: Return ehamiel, the middle one, between Chatlield and Yeo islands, is al)ont ',) miles in lenji^th and joins Hulloek ehann(d ; antl Spillcr clKinnel, the western, betwiM'ii Yeo and Don islands, extends 4 miles and connects with Ellerslie channel (si'f paf,'<' 407). These channels have not been more than casnally examined, and tlieir entrances are fronted by iniuimerablc small islands, rocks, and reets. On the south side of Se.iforth channel, at 0.^ miles eastward of Sound jxtint, is Hecate chaniud, about 10 miles lontr in a ijfeneral southerly direction, with ;m averajje wiiltli of one mile, ami leads into (Queen's sound. Ormidale harbour, at tin- north extreme of Camplxdl islan<l. is about one mile deep in a S.S.M. direction, and is prote.'tcil tVom the north-ciist ity 'I'liorburne ami Nevoy islaiiils wliicli lie across its entrance. 'The chamiel, nearly one mile S.W. 'J S. from (trassy islet, lies westward of Nevoy island; it is alioiit \\ cables wide, with from 1 I to hi fathoms water. Inside the water is ilcep, the depth over the fjfreater part beinj? from l.'t to "iO fathoms. Steer in mid-chamud, and anchoi-aiife may be hail in 17 fathoms about •* cables S.S.K. from X"voy island. The passi;.,'!' in is loiii^er, bin the bcrih-is more convenient tlian in Kynumpt harbour directly west of it. Kynumpt harbour, on tin- north p(»int of Campbell island, imnu'diately west of Ormidale harbour (south shore of Seaforth channel), and abont :2 nules westward from its junction with Lama pussaj,'e, may l»e reco<,'nised by Grassy islet, 2i) feet hi^d,, and iiei,Mtta rock, both of which are conspicuous, lyinj,' in the middle of the chaimel 1| miles north-eastward of the harbour, and also by White stone, a conspicuous bare rock 12 feet high, lying 2 cables westward of the entrance.* * atf Admirulty plau : — Kynumpt hurbour, on cuart \u. 1,*JU1 ; iHiule, m := io inuhe*. 411 Q. CHARLOTTR SOUND TO SRAPOHTH rriANNEL. [Chap, X. The harbour, tlie entrance to which is between Shelf point and Low inland, is 4 cabh'8 h)ni,' X.X.W. and S.S.E., and averaging 2 cables in breadth with (! to Id fatlioniH, uind l)ottoiri ; the best anchorage \h in 7 to n fathoms witli tin- nortli extreun' of F.erry point bearing E.N.I']., and the west cxtrcineof Low ishaid A", by E. k E. A rocky ])atch with ll Feet on it, lies on the westorji side of tlic harbonr, with the south-east extreme of Low island bearing N.L. oy E. } E. distant 2;„ cables, and Shelf point N.N.V7. | W. It is high water, full and change, in Kynumpt harbour at Oh. 3(>ni. ; springs rise 14 feet, neaps 11 feet. Grassy islet, small, 'it* feet high, covered with long grass and bushes, and with two trees on it, lies nearly one niih- N.E. iiy N. from the cntrctnce to Onniilale harbour. Reg^atta rock, awash at high water, one cable in extent north- east and soutli-wi'st, lies lialf a mile W. by \. ^, X. from Grassy island. Dall patch, a shoal with less than »'» feet water on it, lies half a mile N'.X.E. from the entrance to Kynumj)t harbour ; from the centre of the patch Defeat point bears S. by W , j W". distant 4 cables ; it is marked by a spar buoy, coloured black and red in horizontal stripes in '2\ fathoms on the south-east side of the shoalest spot of 5 feet. A shoal of .'} fathoms extends \^ cables westward of Dall patch. To avoid Dall patch, it is reconnnended to keep the southern shore aboard, which in this vicinity may be api)roached to within i^ cables; or if wishing to go northward of thi' patch, — Grassy islet, in line with the south extreme of Handysidt island bearing E. ;} N., leads nearly midway between Dall i)atch and Regatta rock. Dundivan inlet, on the north coast of hufferiu islaiul, about I) miles wi'stward of K\inimpt harbour, indents the coast about l;j miles in a soiith-(>ast direction. It branches into several creeks, of which Lockharl and llait are t!ie largest, and there are several small islets just within the entrance. The water is inconvt-niently deep for anchorage. The south shore of Seaforth channel, westward of Dundivan inlet, trends in nearly a straight line to Sound point, the wouth-west point of entrance. At .'2.\ miles eastward of Sound j)oijit Oide creelj I)i*;inches *!• ohttit, No. 2,44S». Chap. X.] SBAPOllTH CHANNEL. 415 in a southtrly direction, and is Hupposed to connect with Boddy cre«>k from the soutli-oai<t, tliUH separating Dufferin island from the remainder of the Hardswi'U group. Edge reef, on which thon* is a depth of Ah fathoms, lies nearly 4 cables distant from the south shore, at '2 mik'S eastward of Souml point. Several patchrs lit- Ix tween it and tlu> shori'. Cod bank, on which thf least depth found was 27 fathoms, sand, lii'S in the middle of th*' wt-stcrn entrance to Seaforth channel li miles N. by W. from Sound })oint ; there are 58 fathoms nu the south sidt', and 1*13 fathoms, rock, e'lose-to on the nortli side »if Cod bank, Hyndman reefs, the outer of several islets and reefs lyin^ on the western shore at the entrance to Spiller ehannt'l, are nearly in tin- middle of that channel, and has a small rock only 'A I'eet aiiovc water on its south end. Berry creek. — The south shore <>f Don island is l)rokcn and rof'ky. and has numerous islets and rocks skirting it. Hi riy creek is nearly "i unl.^t; long in a tiortherly direction, and as the water in it is deep, and the entrance V)l<icke(l by small islets, it is useless as an anchorage. Blair inlet, i» mih^s \ve>l\vard of Herry creek, isanctther indenta- ti«(n, useless as an anchorage on account of the nutnerous rocks with which it is studded. Ivory and Watch i>lanils f(»rin its south side. Midge reefs, on the north side of Sealoith channel, cover at 10 fetd rise, and extend 1 ciibles in a soiitlM-rly direction from Hush point (Dim island), and are ;<;{ miles within the western eiitrance to the channel. .Mark rack lies one cable distant from the south-east point of Don island, aiul om' mile K.N.K. fnun Midge reefs; between them is Sunk reef. JJare rock, black and low, kept just open south- ward of Surf islet, bearing W, ^ S., leads half a mile southward of Midge reefs, and the n(U"th shore of Seaforth cluinnel should not be apj)roached within this distance. Mouse rook, on which the sea sometimes breaks, lies half a mile VV.S.W. of Ivory island off the entrance to HIair iidet. Idol point ke})t open of Surf islet, bearing K. \ N. leads 2 cables south of Mou><e rock. Mff chart, No. 2.4'li>. 416 CHAPTER XI. INNER CHANNELS, MILBANK SOUND TO CHATHAM SOUND. Variation in 1S9,S. Milbiuik HoiiiKl, li')' :50 K. | Chatham sound, 27^0' E. MILBANK SOUND has its entrance Itetween the parallels of .'i-'" ;• and :r2' 111 X. and the meridians of I'iS' IV.V and 12.S° i2' W. This spacious siieet of naler is the main oixMiinj,' from seaward leading to Seat'urth, Finlayson, ami Mathieson channels.* Ai its entrance l)et\veen cape Swain and Day iwint. the sound is nearly '.) miles wide, which breadth it maintains in a X.N. E. direction f(»r .') miles, thenet' it trends more northerly, and takes a N.N.W. direction lor lU miles, leading in that direction into Fiulayson ehannel. A run of deej) water S miles broad, with depths of ovi'r JOO fathoms, mud, extends south- westwai'd of Milbank sound. North- vvestward of this channel the depths decrease to .')0 fathoms, and less, off the entr.ince to Laredo sound, with a boaoni of tine sand. South-east- ward the depths are 7G and 80 fathoms, with a bottom consisting of sand, mud, and rock at intervals. In thick weather, therefore, or if overtaken by fog, when api)roaehing Milbank sound from the south-westward, with average precautions, a vessel's position can be indicated by the deep sea lead. Position. — Cape Swain is sitiuvted in latitude ^t'i'^ H' TjO' N., longitude 128°:i:r :5ii W. Landmai'ks. — A|»proachini,' Milbank sound from the south-west- ward, Helmet peak on Lake island i.< cunspicuous. This remarkable j.>eak is l,(t;^2 feet high, and bears a striking resemblance to a helmet, witii the sloping side towards the west. • Sii' Admiralty chartH : — Cape Caution to port Simpson, northern and Houthern portions, No. l.'J2;i (i and h ; scah*. n, = m-j.-) of mi inch. Chap, XI.] MILBANK SOUND. 417 of w. IILT IS un m [S, il U' t- <1 n Stripo mountiiiii, on the north sido of Dowager islanil, at tho entrance of Finlayson channel, is 2,020 feet hiph, pvramidal in shape, with a remarkable landnlip down its south-west aide, destitute of timber and soil, but otherwise wooded to its summit ; at its base is a coniiKu-.itively level space scantily covered with vegetation, which is remarkable in such a thickly timbered country. Neiiriuf? the sound (he low w<H)ded sh*»res of capo Swain, the south-west entrance point to tin sound, will l»e rect^jmised. The shore northward of it is nii'ch iirokeii, aiid the tops of the trees are about 120 feet high. Day point (south point of Price island), tlie north-west entrance jMjint of Milbank soimd, has a group of wooded islets, rocks awash at high water, and sunken rocks extending from it ; the western island of the group (Outer island) being round, woo<leti, ami con- spicuous. The outer edge of these dangers lies 2i^ miles S.S.W. from Day point, and 8 cables S.E. I, S. from Outer island. White rook (K'.a mas ik), lying about 5 miles within the sound, is ftO feet high, and half a mile N. by E. from it, is a smaller rock (Bare rock) 6 feet above high water. Both rocks are conspicuous, as, lying well out in the sound, they show out against the dark back- ground of pine and cedar, which line the shores of Milbank sound.* From White rock, a rocky ridge (on which the sea sometimes breaks) extends half a mile to the south-westwaril ; and a patch of 2 fathoms lies 2^ cables East of the same rock. Discovery rocks, situated ofl' cape Swain, are two dangerous r«H?ks lying <S cables N. by K. and S. by W. from each other. The southern danger, over which the sea selih»m breaks, lies one mile W. }j S. from cape Swain. The northern rock, which is usually indicated by breakers, lies N.W. ] W. distant IjV miles from cape Swain. West rock, situated on the eastern shore of the sound, is of srodl extent, 8 feet above high water, and lies half a mile S.W. \ S. *!rom Sound point. Several patches which uncover at low wat*;r He l)etw»-e i Sound point and West rock. Mouse rock (nee p. 4ir)) is a dangerous sunken nek on which the sea generally breaks, lying at the north-west entnui( v to Seaforth channel, (I cables W. ^ N from Surf islet . • See chart. No. 2,449. SO U94S 2D f ^r 418 VILBANK SOUND TO CHATHAM SOUND. [Chaj' Tl- Bash point (north side of Setiforth chiiiincr) Bocn just opn-n Howftj of Surf islet, bearing E. by N. ^ N. leiuls soutlnvanl ; amJ H^-iuHn peak seen ja*t open of the west cxtn^mi' of Miiry island. l»«ariur N. f E., \edtls westward of Mouse rock. Vancouver rock, a dangerous rock wliicli nm-ovtTs 12 I'hhi «i low water, and is steep-to on all sides (tlu're hcin^' depths of l."i »«i<l 14 fathoms; within one cable of tlie rock), lies 1 miles N.N.W. , IT frotu Whit*- rock, and 1.^ miles N.W. by W. }, W. fnnii Boulder b^ud. When risible this rock prt'sents the appeanmcc of a larire whalf^ ttuti is eonspicuons. Cross point Csoath-east extreme of Lady island), in line wirth Boulder head, bearing E. ^ S., leads (I cal)lt'S soutlnvanl ; and L*'w IK>int seen jast open westward of th»^ North island grou]», lienri.ur NortlL, leads westward of Vancoi ver rock. Cross ledge extends S cables southward of Cross i)oii:t, and jianiaUj uncovers. There is a depth of 20 fathoms close soiithwanl of Vnmt- ledge. Surf islet, bearing E. by S., leads southward of Cross ledce in mid-channel between Cross point and White rock. Boulder led^e, of sunken rocks, with depths of 1 [, and .'» iatboxiw-.. extends *.♦ cablt^ in a south-easterly direction from Houider hei»<L Boulder bank, with IH fathoms, rock, lies 7 cables S.S.W. Itomi Boulder heauL Surf islet, bearing E. by S., leads southward of vit*- dangers off Boulder head. North ledges, which uncover at low water, lie noilhward *rf the North island group. The north extreme of these ledge*, ii*^ G cables N. by W. ^ W. from North island ; aiid the south extreui*- 2 cables X.E. of that island. Sandstone reef, situated close to the shore in the n(»rth-we«Mirai portion of Milbank sound, is a conspicuous narrow ridge, of nunfl- atone formation, about one mile long in an E. by N. and W. by ■j»\, direction. The highest portion of this ridge is 4 feet above huSh water. The wesstem extreme of Sandstone reef lies ') cables from lfcr shore of Swindle island, and 1.', miles from the eastern side of Pri«»^ islan<I. PRICE ISLAND, forming the western shore of Milbank souud. has a c-uiuipicaous ridge of hills (Jocelyn range) along its etMUvni .Si^ff chart, No. 1,9336. Chap. XI.] MILBANK SOUND. •u:) shori', from 300 to (*iOO feet in lu'i^'ht. From Day point the eastern coast of l'ric«* ishmd tremls in a N. I»y K. tlin-ction for 1 inili's to Aklricii point, and is nmoli lirokiMi into small exposed Itays. Boat cove, whieli all'ords Hlielter to hoats, is situated half a mile northward of Aldrieh i)oint. With this exception the coast of I'rico island, north of Aldrieh point, is almost stmiujlit and unbroken for S miles, in a X.X.W. .', W. direction to tin- entrance of Schooner passage. The eastern shores (»f Milbank sound are comparatively low and wooded, with pine and cedar trees predominatinj,'. In that portion of tbf. sound lie two extensive chiinnels (Mathiesnn channel and Moss passap"), which hrancli from Milhank sound eastward and northward of La<ly island, resjjectively. Lady island is low and wooded throuf,'hout. The western shores of Dowa;,'er island are also low and woodi'd, but are flanked by hi^di mountains. The south-east extreme of an island contii,'Uous to L:idy islaml, terminates in a hij^di bold clilf (Honlder headi. ClifV island which lies off the south-west side of Dowa^'er island at the entrance to Moss i)asBaf,'e is small, 'i'^^t feet hi^di, and its south-east extreme terminates in hi;,di, c»msj)icuous white difVs. North island is rocky, about l.">() feet hi^rh, with some stunted trees growing,' on its summit. Low point, the western extreme of Dowager island, and the south-east entrance point of Finlayson channel, is low and wooded. Directions. — Approaching Milbank sound from the south-west- w^ard in clear weather, Helmet peak should be kei)t in liiu' with White rock, l)earing X.N.E. j; K., which mark will lead nearly in mid-channel up the sound. When within '21 miles of White rock, on that line, a vessel bound eastward may steer towards Seaforth channel, or if bound northward a X. by W. course may be steered towards Finlayson channel. In thick weather, with average precautions and attention to tlu' deep sea lead, the soundings will indicate the vessel's positi<in. liound from Seaforth channel into Fiidays<in clianiud, keep Idol point well open southward of Surf islet, bearing K. [. N., until Helmet peak comes open of the west extreme of Mary island, bearing I so 11948 St; chart Ni>. I .'J2:ii. 420 MILBANK SOUND TO CHATHAM SOUND. [Chjip. XI. N. 3 E., and thnn Surf iHlot shouM bo kopt astorn hearing K. bj- S. for 3 miles, which will load in mid-channel, H miles northward of White rock. From this position Olitr island should be seen open westward of Roulder head, Imarinf,' N.X.W. I W., and a vessel may steer N,W. by W. ^ W. f(»r ',\ miles, or until Low point is seen open westward of the North island f»roup bearing North ; thence steer N.N.W. for 3 miles, or until Stripe mountain bears N.K. by N., when it may be steered for on that bearing, and the course gradually altered northward into Finlayson channel. Tides and tidal streams. — The flood stream sets to the north- ward, and divides near the middle of Milbank sound, one portion running towards Finlayson channel, another towards Mathieson channel, and another towards Seaforth channel. The reverse takes place on the ebb. The strength of tide is variable, but it seldom exceeds one knot an hour in Milbank sound, but increases within the channels to 2 and ii knots an hour. MATHIESON CHANNEL is an extensive arm of the sea leading many miles northward from Milbank sound, eastward of Lady and Dowager islands, with depths of I0i\ and lO.'i fathoms in mid-channel. At 2J miles within its south entrance this channel is obstructed by islands, islets, and rocks, and a stranger should, there- fore, not attempt to proceed further. From the east entrance to Oscar passiige, by which it communicates with Finlayson channel {sec page 424), Mathieson channel extends in a N.N.W. direction along the east side of Roderick island for over 25 miles to its junction with Mussel inlet ; one arm, about .'i miles long, branching eastward at about T) miles south of the jiincti.m ; it has not been surveyed. ST. JOHN HARBOUR (Cheek squintz) is on the south-east shore of Milbank sound, nearly midway between cape Swain and Sound i)oint, and, though somewhat confined, affords good anchorage for snuiU vessels. The harbour is protected at its entrance by a reef awash and sunken rocks, which form a natural breakwater. Eastward of this reef, at the entrance, there is a clear channel, 2 cables wide, with depths of 10 to 30 fathoms. At .0 cables within the entrance are two small islands. Wood island, the eastern and smaller one, being round, wooded and con- spicuous. The channel eastward of these islands is barely one cable dft clmrtP, \os. 1,023*, •J,449. Chai). XI.] MATHIKSOX CHAXN'KL.— PORT BLAKKNEY. 421 wide jibreuHt Wood iHhiiul, and It'iidrt into Anchor biiy, whiili is llu' UBUiil iinchoi-.i),'e for sniull vchscIh. Wi'stwiird of tlu'm- iHlumU tlii* channel iH wider and leads into Det'i* bay, whirh forms thi' south- west arm of St. John harbour. There are depths of 1) to 20 fathoms in Dtt-p bay, and 11 to 14 fathoms in Anchor bay. Ragro reef extends 7 cabh^s northward from th»' west i>oint of St. John harbour, and is about 2 cables ^vi(h^ This (hm^'cntus reef consists of ledges which uncover, and rocks awash at hiffh water; the northern extreme uncovering 1 feet at low water. Mark islet, ('» feet above high water, lies about midway on the eastern side of Ra^'e reef. Ledges, which uncover, extend one cable from the eastern shore of the channel leading into the harbour. Directions. — Approaching St. John harbour, cajte Swain should be kept well open of the conspicuous (juoin-shaped jxtint situated 2 miles notlhward of the cape, bearing S. }, W. On no account should liage reef be approached inside that line, until Wood island (within the harbour) is distinctly seen, and North point bears Kast. When Wood island is recognised, it should be brought to bear S.B.E. ^ E., and steered for. Wood island on that bearing should be seen in line with a black high-water rock on the south shore of Anchor bay, with a sandy bay immediately east of the rock. Oaution. — At high water, when Hage reef is nearly covered, it is ditlicult to distinguish the entrance into St John harbour. At half- tide, and at low water, the northern end of that reef and also the dangers on the eastern side of the channel are •visible, and a vessel can be guided clear of them by the eye. That period of the tide is, therefore, the best time for entering St. John harbour. PORT BLAKENEY, formed between Mary and Don islands, on the south side of Mathieson channel, about IJ miles within the entrance, is easy of access, and lies immediately at the head t)f Milbank sound. At its entrance, between Promise and Hain points, the port is 2^ cables wide ; thence it takes a southerly direction for about one mile, terminating in a small creek leading into Seaforth channel.* Ood reeils are a cluster of rocks awash, and sunken rocks, about 2^ cables in extent in a north and south direction at the entrance to * Srr Admiralty plan :— Port Blakcncy. on sheet of plans, No. 1,462 ; Bcale, //( = 3 inchuH. T 122 MILMANK MOI'ND TO PHATHAM SOUND. [Chap. XI. ■ I port IMiikcncy. The Hoiithcrn nnk of this (•IiiHt«^r is 4 feet almvf hi>,'h wat(>r, iiiid th<' iiortlitrii rock, willi •,*! t'l'd sviitcr over it, lit-s l{ calth's N.N.K. Ifoin l'roini.,c p(»int, witli a ricar cliaiiiH-l iiortliward of it I }, ('altlfs wide. Oke reefs, situated ahout 2 caldPH northward of C(»d reels, extend 2 cahh's from tlie south side of Oko ishmd. 'Plie outer detached rock is '.\ feet ahove lii^'h water, and between it and Oke isJuPil Htfveral patches of rock uncover at hi^di water. While rocks of!" tlie soutii end of Lake ishmd, seen in line with the north end of I'assa;^*' ishmd (bet ween liake and Lady ishinds) lieaviny \V. A N'., will lead lielwcen Oke and Cod reefs. Mark islet, seen in line with Oke island, heaiinj,' N.W. liy N., will lead eastward <d' those dangers. Sand patch, with 21 feet water ui)on it, is of sinall extent, and lies nearly in mid-channel about ,"> cables witiiin port Hlakeiiey. Helmet ])eak,seen in line with Promise p(»int, bearing X. by W, [> W., will lead westward of Sand i»at(di. Anchorage in lO to 12 fathoms, sandy bottom, will be found about .') cables within jtort Hlakeney, with Helmet peak seen just open of Promise point bearing N. by \V. ), W., and Observation point (»n the north shore of East bay bearing E. by N. \ N. Tides. — It is high water at full and change, in port Blakeney, at noon ; springs rise 11$ f;'et, neaps S feet. Supplies. — Wood and water may be obtained in port J^akeney. liock cod and otlu'r tish may be caught in abundance on Coil reefs, and clams and cockles gathered in the sandy buys ; they are readily obtained at low water by digging in the mud anil sandy ground, especially in those places over which a fresh-water stream runs. Wild fowl are also plentiful in the season. Directions. — Aiiproaching port Hlakeney from the southward. Helmet peak should be kejit just open of the eastern point of Lady Island (J^ang point) bearing N. by E. J, E., and when within 5 cables from the latter a N.E. ^ N. course should be steered towards Oke islaiul, until White rocks are in line with the north end of Passage island bearing W. .^, N., and when Mark and Oke islands are seen in line bearing N.W. by N. a vessel will be eastward of Cod reefs, and may then haul into the harbour. Str chart. No. 1,-1<»2. rhap. XI.] PORT BLAKKNEY.— MORRIS BAY. 42:^ MOSS PASSAGE (Too Witl) Ifadn nortlnvurfl of Lady ishind I'roiM >fill)aiik rtnuiid into MatliicHoii chiiniu'l. At its wt'Btern ('iitranrf tliis pasriii^ff is nvci' oiu- inilr wide ; hut at '.\ milt'S within this <'iitraiic<', ami one mih' from its jiinctioti with Nfathicson chatmol, it is cuiitracti'd l»y Scjuaw island to l)an'ly one c-al)h» named Sloop narrows. I^cyond that position, therefore, it shoidd not l)e atten)pted liv a stran^'er. Bird rock, at tin- western I'nirantH- of Mctss passage, il laliles I''.. I»y S. Irom the smitli extreme of (Mitt' ishnid, is '.\ feet above hl^h vater Willi fonl uroiind extendiiif,' 'J ealile-i eastward from it. The south extreme of the Ntu't'i island ;;rou|t seen just open southwani of til.' south extreme of ClilV island, hearing W. I»y N. I, N., leads southward of ITird rock. MOPRIS BAY, situated on the south sidi- of Moss passaj;*-, aitout (jne mile within its wewtern «'ntrance, is 2.\ cables wide, and exten<ls in a soutli-easterly directi(ui for '.\ cables, i rminutinK in a tlat which dries at low water. Westerly winds send a swell into the rinchoraf,'e ; but the bay possesses the great advanta^^e of permitting the state of the weather in Milbank Bound being ascertained when at anchor, and if fog be prevalent (as is often the case) it can be seen from Morris bay.* Kitty patch lies at the I'astern (Uitrance to Morris bay, om- cal)le from the eastern shore. This bank is oi cable in extent north and south, with depths of 4 ami ') fathoms, siind. Directions. — Approaching Morris bay, a mid-channel course shoidd be ke])t between IJird rock and Salal juiint ; and if Vancouver rock be uncovered, it should l)e kept bearing S.W. by W. (westerly). When the south extreme of Cliff island is seen open northward of Uird rock, bearing W. ), X., that mark kept on will lead to the entrance to Morris bay. Anchoragre will l)e found in 1™' to 14 fathoms, sandy bottom, at one caltle from the western shori', with the western entrance j)oijit of Morris l)ay, bi'aring W. by S. ^ S., and Detached island (north .side of Moss passage) beai-ing X.N.W. Supplies. — (jood water may be obtained in Morris bay. Clams and cockles can lie gathered in abundance. Plover and other birvli frequent 13ird rock. Berries grow in abundance on Salal poini. .S/7- chart. No. 1,\>2U. • iSir plan of MorriH t>ay on Adniiralty chart, No. 1,462 ; scale, m = 412 inuhea. 424 MILRANK SOUND TO CHATHAM SOUND. [Chap. Xi. ALEXANDRA PASSAGE Vwh eustwanl of VancouvtT rock and North iHliiiid ^'roull. Snuili ntciim-voHHclH, powHoHHinKlociil know- M>^t', make uhh of Alexandni pasHii^tj, oHptu-ially when comiiij,' from tho northward to anchor in Morris baj' ; but this piiHwi^o in baroly 6 cabh'H wi(U' in itH narrowcHt part, and In tho event of an accident to tlio machinery a vohhoI UHinff it would bo in a dangerous position. Oliff island (nff^ p. 41D) is nearly steep-to, but the small islet close northward of it has foul ground extending from it one cable westward. Dlreotions. — If compelled by circumstances to make use ot Alexandra passiige keep the western shore of Finlayson channel north of .lorkins point in line with Low point, lu-aring N. by W. ] W. which is the general leading mark through this passage. It is, how- ever, recommended alternately to open and close these points, especially when nearing North island group, so us to keep in mid- channel. SCHOONER PASSAGE, leading from Livredo sound into the north-west corner of Milbank sound, is obstructed by islands, islets, rocks, and sunken dangers, and no 8i)ecitic directions can be given for it. It is occasionally, however, niaile use of by small coasting craft, and the large canoes of the Queen Charlotte islanders also pass through It when making the psissage to Vance mver island. FINLAYSON CHANNEL, the entrance to which is between Jorkins and Low points, extends from Milbank sound in a northerly direction for 15 miles, and thence in a general directi(m N.N.W. .j \V. (westerly) for LS miles, and thence N. ^ E. for miles to the head of Carter bay, with an avenvge width of one to 2 miles. The lantl on both sides is from l,(Kj() to ;},()(M) feet high, the peaks closely approach- ing the shores and rising in a precipitous nuinner from tho water's edge. UnK'ss where the vegt^tation has been denuded fnmi the mountain sides l>y landslips, both shores are thickly wooded, the pine ami cedar predominating ; occasionally their dark green foliage is relieved by the bright light green leaf of the maple. Osoar passage, 4^ miles north of Low point, leads oastwaitl out of Finlayson channel, between Dowager and Roderick islands, and ia about one mile wide, and G miles long to its junction with Mathieson channel. Sff chart, No. 1,923*. Chap. XI.] PINLAYHON CHANNEL. 42.5 1 HuUoy buy, Hitnated on tb« aouth Hhoro of Ortcar puHHii^t*, ^\ niili'H within itH woHtorn fiitmiict', th(Mij,'h hiidiII, iifTonlH t«'mjK)niry iinchoni^'f in l.'i fiithoniH, ut out' caMi' from tlir Hhort', and in occuHionally UBod by coaHting vuhboIh. The Sisters, two Hmall isletH, lyinjj 2 cables from tho wiHtorn Hhoro of FinlayHon channel, .'U mib-H northward of OHcar paHsaKisare wooded and about 5H) feet high. They lie north-wcHt and Honth-eaHt 4 cableH from each other, and are joined by ledgen which uncover at low water. NOWISH (Otter cove) Hob .5 cablcH northward of the f^isters isletH, between Indian and Susjin iBlandH. The entrance, nor hward of Indian inland, is 2 cableB wide ; the cove then extends K.S K. for .') cables, narrowing near itH head, to one cable wide, and having on itH north shore, about 4 cables within the cove, a small bay, which all'ords anchonige for small vessels in 10 to 14 fathoms, siindy bottom, in the middle of tho bay.* Tides. — It is high water, full and change, iu Xowish cove, at noon ; springs rise 12 feet. Jaokson passagre, an unexplored arm of the lustern shore of the channel, is 2 cables wide, and extends in an ••asterly directicm from its entrance. Mary OOVe, situated on the eastern shore, T)^ miles nortiiward of the Sisters islets, is barely one cable wide at its entrance, and extends in a northerly direction for ,') cables, terminating iu a sandy beach. There are depths of 24 and 7 fathoms iu mid-channel within this cove. GONE ISLAND, on the western shore of FinJayson channel, is ',)}, miles long in a N.W. ^ N. and S.E. ^ S. direction, ami about r> cables broad. The summit of this island. Hell peak, situated about one mile from its south extreme, is conical in shape, 1,280 feet liigli ; the eastern and western sides are precipitous ; but the land slopes gently to the northward terminating in Wedge point.* KLEMTOO PASSAGE, between Cone and Swindle islands, is about li^ miles long in a north-west and south-east direction, and in some parts barely one cable wide. Its southern entrance, one cable * Str Admiralty plaa : — ^Nowish cove, on aheet of plans. No. 1,462; scale, m = 4 inohei<. i3B MILMANIC HOrNI) TO CHATHAM SOUND. [Chap. XI. wide, oxtondH in a X.W. J W. diret-tinn for iil)out one mile ; thent-e ill ii Rt'imi-id dirt'ction N.W. ,| N. for '21 iniicH, to abn-awt the north I'Xirfiiic of .lam- island. The iU'|itiis in inid-ciiamwl arc from ID to iHl till bonis, .sand and shells, with rock at intcrval.s. 'Phctii^h narrow, liiis |iassaf;c is salf (pnvich'd a inid-cli.mncl ccnirsc Itc kept), and allurds aiiclioi-a^'c almost throiif,diout.'' Anchorag'e, snitaldc to vessels of moderate h-n^'tli, will he found north of Star ish't. nearly in mid-channel, one cahle from the sltorc of Cone island, at I j miles within the eastern eiiti-.mcc, in 12 fiithoms sand aixl shells. Tides and tidal streams. -It is hi^di water, full and change, in Klemlno passa^^'e, at iiotiii ; sprin^^s rise \'.\ feet, neaps IS feet, and the neaps ranp' ',\ feet. 'I'he tidal streams are comparatively weak. The tlood or north -j,'oin>j stream is l)ut little felt, the f?reat body of water passing' into Kiidayson channel. The <'l)b Hcldom exceeds the rate of one mile an hour. South passage, l>elween Cone and .laiu' islands, is .') cables wi«ic, with depths of IS to 1^7 fat I 'HUH, rock. Kelp patch, with .'> to \'2 feet oviM* it, lies one cable southward of .lane island, and is about one cable in «'Xtcnt in a smith-east and north- west direction. Ilerry point (ca.st side of Swindle island), sen just op»'n of Le^jmi point (west sid»' of Cone island) bearing S.S.K. | K., will lead south- ward and westward of Kelp patch. Wedp' rock uncovers ai lnw water, and lies ;")(• yards from the north «'Xtreme of Cone island. Kippic bank, with 11 fathoms, rocky lioltom, lies nearly in mid-channel of South passage. North pa8Sa8:e. lietwt^iMi lane and Sarah islands, is h cablen wiile, with tU'pths from 22 fathoms to no bottom at 38 fathomn. Danger patch, with one to '.\ fathoms watei over it, lifS one cable iioith-west ward of .lane island. JANE ISLAND, situat<'d .'> cables north-west of Cone island, is aliout one mile long i«i ii N.W. and S.K. direction, and .*) cabh's broad. It is low and wooded, the tops of the trees being 2(M) feet high. .V«' chart. No. I,tt2:V». * Sf Atiiniraliv {itiiii : — Klcmtoo partxapto and anchorairi^ tin iln'ct of plaiiN No. I.lii'i ; Huiklo. .'I = I inotioH. : Ohlip. XI.] KINLAYSON (MI ANNKL.— C'ARTKR HAY. [^"t Sarah Island, the south iH>int ol' wliicli is f, (ul.lcs north wjml of .lane island, is 15 inilt's lony in ii X.N.W. ami S.:'.K. ilin'ction, ami one niilf to ".'.', niilt's hi-oail. This islaii'l icadit'S ils irrfatcst clfvation of "jJUMl ft't'l at I milts from its south fxtrcmc. On thf south-t'UKt side of the island, at 7 inih'S from tin- south cxtrcmi', an lun" ,»|orod hay fati's south-iast ward, and at '.\\ Miih'S from ihf south i-xtn-mt' of Sarah island, on its casicrn short-, ihcn- aro {\\i> hij^di watt-rfalls. Watson bay lies on iln- <;isifrn sidf of I'inlaystm channfl, !• milo northward of Sistors ish-ts. This nncxplort'il hay is tiUf milf widf ;il its fiilram T. and iwifmls in an rastfrly dirt'fiion. Wallace big-ht lifs •.'.', mihs mtrthwanl <>f Walst.n l.iiy. It is Diit' niih' widi' at ii> •■ntrifiicf. anil lakos a norllnrly iliri-ctitui for nm' mill'. Tht'rv' is no hotlMo at ItK'i falhoiu.s, iiflwicn its tnlranff |Miinls. Goat cove, siluatftl ■[ mih-s ntirtliwanl of Wail act- l>it:hl, is .'» fai)h'S wiilf. ami oxtemls in an t-jistfrly ilin'ttion ftir .'• caliifs. Ifrminatiii}.,' in a samly ht-ach. Tlifff an- ilf|ilhs of 'l',\ Iti ',\\ fatlmms within this ciAt , tlu' fornn-r hcin;; closf to thf hcail. Sheep passag'e is ni-ai'ly om- mill' wiilf, and h-ails oasl ward from I'inlayson channi'l, jusi south of CartiM- hay. .\l i'l miles within its wfstt'rn t'liti'ancH, it trends nortiiward until its jiimiion witii MtiHstd inh't. MUSSEL INLET, which has imt hi'iMi t-xplori'd simi' Van- couver's visit in 1 7'.'i5, takes a X.N.W. ilirection for ahoul ."» miles, when it smldenly turns lo the casiwaril for alioiil the same ilistanec. tenniiiatinf; in I'oison cove, so named hy VanciHi\tr, owin^,' t<t several td' the (few of the I iisriirrrji liein^; |>oisoned ii\ e.ilinj,' mussels louinl there. It is staleil lo liavr (lie same ^'eii'f.d iliaraeicrislics as ihe other inlets. CARTER BAY. -Tlii> eseelleiit Htoppin- place li.s at the heati of Kiidayson ciianinl, L't'i mili'r. wiihin its entrance, ami is easilv reeo^'nisetl hy the hi;.di dill's tui its wfstern shore. I'lie Imv is I caldes wide ut its entrance, ahreust the iiiichor.iK*' Ki'"""d, ami almut )1 cahles tieep h) a northerly iliroction, tlie heatl tcrminatin," in a lar^'e Htreain fronted hy uii oxtensive llai." S-, chart. No. I.'.f.'il/,. * S<r Ailmiriihy plan : — tWior buy, on shfol of plan-. Nn. I.IHM ; KCiilf. "« = I iiiilii>. 428 MILBANK SOUND To CHATHAM SOUND, [Chap. XI. Anohoragre will be found in 11 to 1.') fathoms, iniul bottom, at IJ| cal>lt!H from the oasti-rn Hhore, and 2 cablcB from the rtind iiat •;? the heatl of the bay; with the entranee pointH of the bay bearing 8.E. I a. and S.S.W. ^ W. reHpectively. Supplies. — Water can be obtained from the Uirm^ stream at the head (tf tiio bay, which is probably one of the bewt watering {daceii along the coiwt. Tront abound in the frcfsh-water stream. Trackn of bear and deer were seen on the shore. Wild fowl frequent Carter bay. Oaution. — Shell fish, of whatever kinil, should not bo eaten. Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in Carter bay at noon ; springs rise IJJ feet. HIE KISH NARROWS lie northward of Sarah island, and lead from Finlayson channel into Graham reach. This channel is about 5^ miles long, in a general N.W. antl H.E. directitm, and from 2^ cables to one mile wide. The depths are M to 71$ fathoms in mid- channel, over a bottom of sand and shells. Hewitt rock, a dang*u'ouH sunken rock with 10 feet over it, an<l deep water close to, lies at the western entrance of Hie Kish narrows nearly in mid-channel. A black can buoy marks this rock. The north shore of the channel should l>e kept aboard when navigating the western p(»rtion of Hie Kish narrows. The south point of Carter bay, seiMi just open of the north t-xtreme of Sarah island, Ijearing S,E. ^ E., leads northward of Hewitt rock. TOLMIE CHANNEL, situated between Princnss Royal and Sarsih islands, is about !;'> miles long in a general N.N.W, and H.S.E. direction, and from a half to on»' mile wide. On the west shore, 2.^ miles northwanl of south point of Sjti-ili island, an tfxtensive arm takes a soul lierly direction, and is rep<»rted to communicatt^ with Laretlo sound. Abreast the n<.rth-eaHterii point of this inlet, a small islet lies close to the shore of Saraii island. Caution. — The northern reach of Tolmie channel looks duectly into this inlet, care is therefore necessary when approaching from the northward nut to mistiikc this un**xplored arm for the reach leading to Klemtoo passage. Sev uhart, No. l,VIIib. Chap. XI.] PINT.AYSON CHANNEL.— TOLMIF, CnANNKI< 42*> At 2 mllPB northward of the above-montioned 'nlot, on tho west shore of Tolinio fhunnel, lies another unexphired passage, facing the south-east. Tolinie rook, on winch is 4 feet water, lit'S 1(H> yards from the shore of Sarah ishmd, at 5 ca))U's within the northern entmnce of tlu' Tohnie channel. Directions. — T(tlnue ohannt'i, though not so wid«' an Firlayson channel, is preffnihlt' in some respects, especially if compelled to he under way at night. A mid-channel coiirse shoulil he steered tl!r(»iigh(»ut except when navigating the northern i)art of the chaiun'l, when the west shore should he noared to avoid Tolmie rock. Tidal atreama. — The flood stream sets to the northward, and is stronger in Finlayson than in Tolmie channel. Th«' ehh, Intwever, is stronj^'er in Tolmie channel, and runs for l.\ hourn after the ehh has ce;ised in I'inlayson channel. In the ujirrow parts of thes«' channels, both flood and ehh streams attain a velocity of '.) knots an hour at sj)rings. GRAHAM REACH, situated northward of the junction of Tolmie channel with Hie Kish narrows, is ai)out 17 miles long, in ii ««'nend N.W. by N. and S.K. by h. direction, and from a half t«i (iiH' 'uih' broad, with (''.'pths (»f from '.\S fathoms, rock, to l.')(> fathoms, .sjind iud shells. Frt)ni the north-west extreme of Sarah island this reach I ikes a N.W. by N. (northerly) direction Tor 7 miles, to abreaHt Swansrn l>ay, thence it takes a N.W. \ N. direction for \{)\ miles to abreast Ited cliff point. In general features this reach resembles Fiid.iyson chaiund.* Green inlet lies on the north shore, 2 miles northward of Sariih island. This unexplored arm takes an east<'rly direction at its entrance. Flat point lies on tho west shore, IJ miles westward of Green inlet. This point is wooded, flat, and compamtively low. Abnnist Flat point, on the south shore of the channel, is a remarkable large boidder rock. SWANSON BAY lies on the north shore, 7 nules from Sarah island. There is a conspicuous waterfall on the south shore of the chaiuud abreast S'vanson bay ; in very dry siunniers this is reduced to a very small si/e, anil even occasionally ceases altogether. ."*'(• chart. .No. I.1»>?»M. 430 MILHAXK HOUND TO CHATHAM SOUND. [Chap. XL Aii(h(init.'«' niiiy Ix- <»l)tuiiK'<| in |',( fiitii<nns, windy liottom, in t\u- nortlii-rii part of Swaiisnn li;iy, with llu- conHpiciioiis watfrFiiil on tlic Hotiili sliorr Hliiit in with the north fntninec point, and Flat point Hhiii in witli Iht- south fntranc-c point of tlu' hay. KhutZ6 IS an nncxplon-d arm, on the nortli shoi'o, (1 inih'S wcst- wai'd of Swaiison l»ay. it \h ;') calilt's wide, and lit's in a N.K. hy K. dirrrtion from il.s ontranct'. Anch<»raj;t' is rttportcd hy Indians at tht> hrad of lliis ildrt. Aaltanhash is another inh't on tht- nortli shore, unexamint-d hy the Admiralty 'inrvcy, 2 niih'S wc^stward of ivhnl/.t'. In size and direetion it is similar to Khut/e. and is reportcMl l)y Indians to adord anchora^'e. Tidal streams. — TIm' ti<lal streams meet abreast Aaltanhash inlet. Red cllft' point, thr tnrnin;r point into Kraser reach, lies on (he si»iitli shore, |7[, miles from Sarah island. This point terminates in a eonnpieiioiis elill' of a reddish hrown eol(»nr : and is a </ood landmark'. FRASER REACH, liie channel north-westward of (iraham reach, iti I'ii, miles Uma in a j,'eneral W. hy \. and K. hy S. direction, and a half to I.J, miles wide. In features it resemblea Finlayuoi) channel. Warke island is i[, miles lon^' in an east and west direction, and half a mile l>road. The east extreme of \\\h\ if^iantl lies one mile W.N.W. from l{<'d cli!V point. The channel on both .sides of the island is dee]*, l)ul that to the south is slij,ditly the widcT. There is a hay on the south shore of tiie chainiel, abreast Warke islainl, at the head of which is a line trout stream, communicating,' with a lar^ii' lake. Kraser reach from abreast Warke island takes a W. by N. tliri'ction for ;■) miles, thence W.N.W. for iJ milcH to abreast Iviut,'come point. Klekane, an unexamined arm on the north shore, abreast Warke island, is .'» cables wide, and takes a N.W. direction from its entrance. Ap|)roachiu},' from the south-eastward this arm appears as the con- tinuation of fJraham reacli. Anchora^'e may, from Indian report, be <d)taini'd at the head of Klekane inlet. .Vr churl. No. \'JTA,i, Chap. XL] FRASER REACH.— FISHERMAN COVE. 4:u KingrCOme point, tin- turning' pnini iiiiu M«Kay rfjuh. in on the Huuth Hiioi'ft I:i miles from U«'<1 clitr (Mtiut. Th«> point iM long, sharp, and conapii'iioiiH. McKAY REACH leads westwanl fnun Fnwer reach into Wrij^iit sotiiid, is altoiit S miles lony in a yenepal W.S.W. and K.N'.K. direetion, and troin one mile to 'i miles \vid<- ■ tlier*- is no hnttom in mid-( liannel at I'.VJ and 'i'i^t latlioms. ilie laiier M 'I t-ahles soutiiv.ard of ('innmiii}; point. From mid-clianmd abreast Kin^'come point, the r»:ud> lakes a W.S.W. direetion for I miles to abreast Trivei |Miint : ilienee S.W. by W. for I miles to aitreiwt Cuininin^' |Miint. W«'st\vard of Kin^'Cffme point, a deep bay lies on the south sh*»n', ht'tween Kin^'eome and 'IVivet points. The land on dm north shore of the cliannel is hiu'h ami bold, with inoiuitains i(,lKI() feet hiKh. The land on the s^iuth shore is not so hi^di ; and mar the summits of tli" niniintains an- s«»me ••xteiisive ban* pat( lies of slate colon r. ORIBBELL ISLAND, the shores of whieh have not been siirveyeil in detail, is of somewhat reeUmcidar form. alMtut 11 miles lon^' (nortli ami south), and 7 mil«s wide. The Wimbledon mountains, alonj; its south shore, are from ■.'.<•••'• to ;i,i»i»» f»>et hitfli. Ursula channel. — Metween I'iloi point, th«' southM-ast point of Ciribbell island, and Fisherman cove, on the op|M>8ite shore, in the entrance to Vi-sida channel whieh skirts ih»- «»a>t siile of (triblMdl island for about 7 milfts. Its shoren an* ciimjM»H*«i of steep lofty mouniaiTiH rising' abrujttly from the sea. and eovere«| with pines and for»*»t trees. Fisherman cove, on tlw^ east shore at the •ninince to IJreula channel, aft'ords it!difV»rent anchoraife in il<l faih<>m:», with the south point of the bay (a clump wliieh is eonnectetl to the short- 5iy a sandy ntH'k covered nt hi>j;h water) bearing S. j W. When anchorini^ Ihmv f«'el the way with the deep sea lea<l. as the water ^h<MU very v,uddenly from M^ fathoms to 1:2 fathoms, ihf Iaii«T depih bein^ ;! '.looui *J."» yjinls from the shore. .\ small stri.nn flows into the h.-m( of the c«ive, otf which a shoal extends some distance, its ihI^i- Ihmuk verv i«««p. S-r cliurt, .\i), I.!t23./. 432 XTLRAXK SOUND TO CHATHAM SOUND. [CfcajL IDL. At 24 milee northward from Fisherman covo ig aBmall inlnt vl»«?»^ a hot fnprini^ was iliscovered. The colour and taste of which re*HimUl*itl the waters at Cheltenham. Boxer reach, the continuation «)f Ursula channel W.N.W. almir the north-«<i«t and north sides of Oribbell island, is alnjot <"» luiiW lonp. On ii« north shore anchorage may bo found in the n(»n,b-v**n part ftf Riifhop «»ve ; this is a very fjood anchonif^f, ami is foruiHd \a a uarrriw ne<'k «»f sand rxtendin^' from the land tcrniiuHU-d la v clump oventi with trees, similar to that at FisluTman eo\>'. Tit* water fthtnls gnwlnally up to the sandy neck and a vi'ssel murixt ja*> into 15 fathoms. There appears to be anchorage on the south-east side of the suud;^ neck, but the beach runs out shoal a long way on tliat side. Vemey passagre, along the west coast of Gribbell islaiid. tak>* a northerly direction from Money island, off its west entrance yuKna. for about H miles, and communicates with Hoxer reach : it*! Hh<n'** havf not been surveyed. DcivastatiOIl channel. — From the junction of Verney patwat?* and IJoxer reach at the north point of Gribbell island, the chaumil continues northward along the east side of Hawkesbury island f*«r 20 milefl ; it« shores have not been surveyed. Gardner channel, the entrance to which is on the east Hide \tS DevsKtation channel, about mid-way along it, turns off at Staulfttrtiii point to the eastward, in which direction it continues, with mour sinuoaitiea, for npwanls of 4.") miles. " The land is an entirely liarr«u *' waste, nearly de«titate of wood and verdure, ai)pearing as a ma«t> uf " almtist naked rocks rising to rugged mountains whose toweriu|r " sumnjits appearing to overhang their bases give them a tn^nx^-ndou* ** ap^MSirance, covered with jwrpetual ice and snow." Its short* have not been surveyed in detail, l)Ut there is repon*-.! to be anchorage on either side of Richardson point, on th«^ suutii shore (tM»ath-«aKt of Channel island), about tl miles from the entranoe.. in from IK to h fathoms ; and also at Kemano bay on the north Hhupe. 20 miles further up, but here the anchorage is stiid to be indijaereut, as the vraUrr in deep and shoals very raj)idly from no botu»m M 2r> fathoms to 3 (iathoms ; great caution is recpiired in picking up a berth, and whi-n entering keep over towards the eastern eutruuoe .S,r chart, No. 1,92.1m, 1 Chap. XI.] DEVASTATION CHANNEL.— KITIMAT ARM. 433 point (Kiitranco hlufT), as shoal water extonds for som<' distance from the opposite i)oint. Keinaiio river flows thr!»ii«fh an t'xttnsivt' valley into the head of Keniano l>ay, and is a stream of sonie size, iiavif,Ml»le in the siunnier liy eanocs for a distaiit f S miles frnm its month. Kemano hay in fre(picnlcd hy the Kitliip Indians diirin^r liic hoidican lishin^' season; their villa|Lre, however, is at tlie head (tf the inlet, liearsare reported ti» be abundant in the Kemano valley, and mmmfain sluu-p in the mountains, bn«; a scarcity of deer. Fii-ewood ean be obtaineil from the Indians at a moderate priee. In the winter months ice forms at 2.'» miles from the head of fJardner channel. Tides. — ll is said to \w hi^di water, at fidl and chanije, in Kemano bay at 1 hr. p.m. (.lune) ; spring's rise about '.• feet. Kitimat urm.- ''rom tlie north end of llawkesbury island the inlet c(»ntinues in a northerly direction for a further distanci' of about 17 miles to about lal. .'')l 2 X., where it is terminated by a border of low land with a shallow llai exleiidiiiL,' from side to side, throu<,di which a small rivulet discharj,'es itself at the eastern corner, naviLrable imly for canoeH. This termination ilill'ers in some respects f?'oni many of the others ; its shores are not very al>riipt l)Ul are bouiuled on each siile by a ranf.,'e (d' lofty mountains, which, however. are not (as is constantly the case) counecti'd at the head of the arm, but continue ajiparently in a dire(;tion parallel to ea(di otlu-r. The valley between thcni, which is ',\ or i miles wide, bein^' covered with iiees, mostly of the pine tribe. Two Indian villages of the Kitimat tribe are situated near tlu^ head of this arm. Olio bay, on the east shore of the Kitimat arm, has been visited on several occasions by 11. M. ships for the purpose of etunmunicating with the Kitimat Indian.s, and affords anchoraj^'e in 17 fathoms. Kildala arm e.\tends in an K.N.K. direction for about 10 miles, branchini,' off from the east side of Kitimat arm at about 11 miles from its heail. Douglas channel, which extentls aloUK the west sliore of Hawkesbury island for upwards of 25 miles in a northerly direction, leadiiif,' intoilie Kitimat arm at its junction with Devastation channid, has not been surveyed. It is about '.\ miles broail, ami the short's are *r chart, No. I,it23</. S01194S 2K 434 MILRANK SOUND TO CHATHAM SOUND. [Chllp. XT. very hi^h. Kit kiu tah. an imexploreil inlet, Knmclit'H from tin* W(*Ht h1«Ii' of n(»nj,'IaH fhiiniu'l in a Honth-wcstcrly ilirt'ction at t'» niiloH from Money poinl, its Hoiith east entrance point. Small vcKselrt may anchor in T) fathoms half a mile within Kit kia tah inlet. WRIGHT SOUND, a sheet of water l> miles lon^ in an east and west dintction, and 2j miles wide at its narrowest part, lies between Crrlhhell and (Jil islands, with no hotlom at !!'.• and •220 fathoms. It commnnicates eastward with McKay rea(di, and westward with fJrenville channel. Cfil island, on the south side of the sound, culudnates in a well defined snow-clad peak ;?,(MM» feel liiLrh. (.SVv patfc 4S"i.) The mountains north-east wan I of Ilolinos hay have hare patches down their sides. Directions, — In thick weather, when the shores are almost (thscured to the wat(»r's edp', Wrifj:ht sonnd, with its diU'er 'nt open- infj;s north and south, makes a very pt^rplexin^j pictun' to a stran^'cr. Under such circumstances it is well to rememher that a due West course leads atro.ss the sound from McKay reach to (Jrenville channcd ; the distance from i)oint Cinnming to Yolk point heinf,' ju.^t 7^ miles. Promise island, on the north side of the sound, with its two ilome-shaped mountains, and cape Farewell, th«' south-east e.xtrfine of the island, are conspicuous. HOLMES BAY (Quel ak se a.x), situated on the ea^.tern shore of \Vrif?ht sound at the entrance of Whale channel, is 8 caMes wide at its entrance, and recedes in an easterly direction for ahoiit I cahlcs. terrainatinj,' in a sand Hat, which extends one cable from the head «»f the bay.* The north entratice point is hii,di and bold, and a small islet lies off the south entrance point of the bay. Anchorag'e will be found in II fathoms, sand, with the south extreme of Promise island in line with the north point of the bay, bearinj? W. by N. ^ N. ; and (Jil mountain in line with the south entrance point, S.W. by W. >■// it!;irt. No, l.lfjn,,. ♦ Sir Atlmiralty plan ; — Hohucs \my. on '^lit'et. No. I, '.Mil ; calc. in = 5r< incUes. Chap. XI.] wnionT sorND— coohlan .xnthouaok. 43.') Tides. — If iH hif,'h water, full lunl oluingo, in IIoliiu^H l»iiy, in Ih. ; H|>riiij,'H ri.sc ]',\ U'\.t, n«nipH !<• fot«t. Fisherman COVO was tlic n.iuu' (,'ivt'ii by Viincouver to an iincluiniL'f one luilc tsi.stwarti of Tiirtif jtnint, clo-sc to tlu> whore of (lil island. Thr WHtt-r in tleop, ami tlir anrhom^'o ruportod iiKlilVui-fnt. PROMISE ISLAND, »l tli-- s..iitli .'nrl of DoiiuIiiH channol, in ',\\ miles Ion;,' N.N.W.and S.S.K., witli an fxtmno breadth of 2 iniU'rt; it IH covcrt'il with pine and coilar, ami ciilminati-s in two peaks of doine-shajM), 1, (ISO ami 1,710 f«'ei hi^h respectively. Cape Karewell, the s(Mith-east extreme i>f tlie island, tcM'iiiinates in a hiyh, bold clilV. A eonspieiious white din lies on the soutli shore, midway l.'otween cape Farewell and 'I'hom jjoint. The east shore of the island is liij.rli, Willi an oetMsional bay with a sandy beach at its head. D.iwson point, ihe north i-xtretne, is low and woodetl. Farewell ledge inicovers at low water, and extends 2 eables south-east from c.ipe l-'arewell. This leilp- is steep-to, there l)ein;,' no bottom at |(( f.ithoniH at !>'> yards from it. Led-^es extend one cable from the eastern shore of Promise island. Dawson ledgre t'xtends '2 eiibies nt»rthwaii'tl from Dawson point, a)id uncovers at iiulf ebl). OOGHLAN ANOHORAGF. b.'tw(M'ii tiie maiidand and Promise island, situated about one mile westward of cape Farewell, is ',\ cables witle at its (Mitr.mce between Camp and Tliom points, and extends in a north-W((st direction for 2 mih»h, \siihMjiiur within the •intrance to 4 cables.* Thoui lu<lire extends KM) yards S.W. of Thorn point. Harbour rock is a ilan^orous rock of small extent, which uncovers (I feet at low water, and lies nearly in mid-channel near tht^ head of the harI)our. This rock is steep-to, there being depths of 10 and IH fathoms at 1(M( feet from the rock. Gil mountain 8eeu in line with Tliom p(»int, bearing S.E. j^ E., will lead north-east ; and Camp point seen just open of Observation i)oint, bearing S.F. j S., will lead westward of H'rbour rock. .»47 olwit. V(t. \. k:\ii * .Sf'i" Achnifiilty plan :• Coi^hlun imiihoruire. mi nlitM't t»f pluiiH, Nu. 2,1M!1 ; Hcal«'< »i=H'2.') inohc'i. so 1194S 2E2 I 4af> MILRANK SOUND TO ('HATIIAM HOUND. [Clllip. XI. Otter shoal (^xtfiuU l\ cahU-n Iroiii th»' wt'Htcru Hhctrt- at tho iKniil of the iinclioniKt', willi depths of '.) rathoins aiiil Wtin upon it. Anchoragre in ('• to 7 I'athomH rtami, will 1h' tVtiind iioar tho hfiid of (!o^rhlaii an"liorayt', with (iil inoiiiitaiii jiint rthut in witli 'I'lioni point, Itt'arin^' S.K., ami SifphciiH point just <tp('n u\' ],t'titia jtoint (Stfwart narrowH) Ix-arin;,' N.K. liy N. Wiicn filtering,' l<«'t'p in mid- channel, to avoid tin- li'dgc which iineovci'H oil' Tlioni point. Stewart narrows h-ad northward nl" Promise ishmd intr» DoMj,'las ohannel. The streams in this jiassairc are stron;,', and the chanin'l confined ; it is iherel'ore hdI ri'cumineiided. Tides. — It is hij,'li \vat( r, lidl and cliani,'!', in (!o;,'hlan anchoruj,'e at t»h. !{<>m. ; spriiifrs rise IS feet, neaps 14 feet. Tidal streams. — The Hood stream which onterH Cumpania sound from tile southward, divich'S oil' I'aHHa^rc island, and the main l»oiiyof water passes U|) Sipialiy channel. The lesser body, passin;,' into Whale channel, skirts the north shore of frii island, and iinilos, at one inih' northward of 'J'urtle pdini, with the main body of water wirudi has eiiiereil Wri^dit sound l»y Lewis passaf,'e. The Hood stream from that jiosition, sets directly across Wri^jht soinnl, and iuipintfini,' on (!ainp jHiint causes very stron;,' eddies oil' that point, and is then delli'cte.l towards (Jrenville channel. A (lortion of the hood stream Ity Whale chmnel turns into McKay reach, and meets, abreast of Aaltanliash inlet, the Hood stream from the Kinlayson «"hannel. Another jtortion proceeds into l)ou),das channol an<l Vtu-ney jjassa^'c. On the el)b, the reverse takes i)lace, the main body of water from Wriifht sound obtaining un exit hy Whale channel. The ebb streams from Wrii,dii sounil, I )(uif,das channel, and .McKay reach, unite nearly midway between Maple point and Holmes bay, setting? directly towards the latter, producing' stronj,' eddies ai the mouth of Holmes bay. 'J hence the stream sets fairly thnuigh Whale channel, and passiu;,' north ami south of l'assaj,'e island, unites with the stream <d' Stpially channel, and united they pass out into Camitania souml. lloth llofxl and «'bb streams attain the vtdocity of '.\ knots an htoir. at spring's, in tie' contracted portions <tf the cluunuds. Sir chart, So. l.ifJUrt, n M <'hiii». XI. J uiti:vvii/,K ciiANNKi,. 4M7 ORENVILLE CHANNEL I»m'Is nuith-w.rtiwiinl ..nt of Wrijjlii Hoimd, ami is ihf iiHiial cliiiiiii'l laktii liy stcam-vcsHclH wlu-ii i>r<»- crt'tlin^,' to ilif norllicni wains dl' Itriiisli CultiniJiia. At its Hoiitli-caHt cud (Srcin iiltt cliaiiiifl ahrt'aHt Yolk point in H cahh'H widr, tlicucf it trciulrt W. Itv N. \ N. t'nr I ihIIch to ahrraMt Davfiiport iKtiiii, with an avi'mj^r witltli of rue mih'. Kroiii this point till' cliainicl taki'S a W.N.W. ilirt'ctioii for II niilcH, and narrown to 'A cal)lfs as Lowo inlet is ai)prt>aclH'd, seldom excft'din^ l cahlt's in wiillli until north-westward of I'lveniny point (Klewiiii;,';rii ). From a position in mid-channel Wi'siward (»!' Lowe inlet, (Jrenville channel treiidn X.W. l)y \V. ■} \V. I'nr 7 miles, to ahreaHt Kvenin^ point, thence it widens to one and '.\ miles ; and extendri W.N.W. for 2',\ miles, to al)r«'ast O^'ilen channel. Tie' depths in (iri'iiville chaimel are IS to i;};; fathoms, rock. The land on Itoth sides is hi;rh, reai'hinK an elevali<in (tf li,')!!!) feet on the north, and from l,tiii() to •J,(iii(MVft on the soiitii shore; and tor the most part iH denstdy wooded with pine and cedar. The mountains rise almost per|)endiciilarly from the water, and cause the Houtheni ponimi uf this narrow (dianinl to appear even narrower than it is (\\ t-aljles). I hit the general ell'eci of so many mountains risin;: one hidiind the other, renders the (Ireiiville passau'e one of the most lieauiiful lands*-apes on this coast ; and is ei|uall«M| only hy Kh-mtoo passa^'e. The only directions necessary foi- na\ ij,'atin^' (Ireiiville (diannelaru to keep in miil-cliaiinel, cxcei>i when passing,' Nahanhah hay, and (hen the south, or I'itt island, short' should he ke)tt aboard. The Houth shore for I miles westward itf Devonporl pdint is stated to he foul, hut close ill. Tidal streams in (Jnnville channel are weak, in most places not exceeding' ont- knot ; the Hood stream from the northwaril laeetin^,' that from the siuithward abreast Nahanhah hay. Morning reefs extend N.W. hy W. nearly one mih- from P'vtmin^' l»oint, and Leahies from the north shore of Nalianlmh hay. The south shore of (iren\ille channel must he kept on hoard wiieli j)assinf,' Mttrniiif; rei'fs." r>are islet (north sitle of Klewnuf,'uit inlet) kept opm of Camp point (south siile of that inlen Itfarim,' N.K. 'I K. will had westward of Morninj,' reefs. LOWE INLH.T (Kumowadah). situated on the north shore of Grenville channel, about ik miles from Wright 8(»und, is a little over • Ht'e Admiralty plan : — Klcwnutrtfit. \i>. 'J.lS'.i ; ncale, «t = 3'25 inohcH, IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) V.A \ 1.0 I.I 1^ mil 2.2 2.0 1.8 1.25 1.4 1.6 •• 6" ► V] VQ ^>: 7 Photographic Sciences Corporation #v 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. MSSO ( ;i6) 873-4503 'V- <. .V/' ^^^ ^ i- & ^N k !^ ' ^ ^ i 438 MILBANK SOUND TO CHATHAM SOUND. [Chap. XL 2| cables wide at its entrance between James ami Hei)burn points. From mid--.lianuel, between the entrauee points, the inlet extends in a N. by W. direction for 5 cables ; thence N.N.E. for t) cables to the mouth of Nettle basin, and widens to 4 cables.* Nettle basin is nearly circular in shap(>, and is .') cables across ; but between its entrance points the Ijasin is barely one cable wide. Within the general depths arc 1") to J 7 fathoms, mud. In the north-east corner of the basin is a large stream, with a M'aterfall close to its mouth, and several others within (Verney falls). This stream is rejiorted to be connected by a chain of lakes with Kit kia tah inlet (Douglas channel). On the soutli side of the inlet a remarkable mountain, with a conical summit (Anchor con(^), rises to the height of 2,010 feet. High-water rocks, situated one cable from the western shore, at i cables within Lowe inlet, are awash at high water, and lie close to each other in a north and south direction. There is a depth of 23 fathoms, at 100 feet eastward of the rocks. Don flat, with depths of 3 fathoms and less upon it, extends one cable from the head of the bay south of Don ix/mt, on the eastern shore. Whiting" bank, at 2 cables witliin the mouth of Jjowe inlet, has depths of 10 I'athoms and less (Ui it extending across the entrance. Northward of that position the water deepens to 19 and 20 fathoms, mud. Anchorage for vessels of moderate length will be found, in mid-channel, on Whiting bank, in 8 and 10 fathoms, sand and shells. In this positi(m, Anchor cone mountain should bear E. by N.; and the eastern entrance point of the harbour (Hepburn point) U.K. by S. For a long vessel, more convenient anchorage will be found higher up the harbour, in mid-channel, in 20 fathoms, mud bottom, with Anchor cone mountain bearing S.E. by E. Supplies. — Good water can be i)rocured in Lowe inlet, from the stream in Nettle basin. Trout may be caught in that stream, and clams are found on tlie fiat at the eastern shore of Nettle basin. Whiting, in abundance, may be caught on Whiting bank. iS<f chart, No. l,\m<i. * Str Admiralty plan : — Lowe inlet, on sheet of plans, No. 2,18!( ■ cale, m — 3*75 iuuhes. Chap. XI.] LOWE INLKT.— STTAIIT AXCIIOU AC'^',. 430 •75 K(li))le iiettli'M j^ruw on iiio pIioii'h oL ttio lL)iisiii,uiitlcUV useful as tan autiscorl)utic when cooked. Tides. — It is liii^h water, i'lill aiul ehaii;,'e, in Lowe inlet at Oh. ;»(>iu.; springs rise 17 feet. nea^JS 15 feet. KLEWNUGGIT INLET lies '.) miles westward of l.oAve inlet, on the north shore of fxrcnvillo channel, and one mile Avestward of Kvening point. The entrance betwc^en Camp point (south shore), and Leading island is 4 cables wide, and thence tiie inlet takes an easterly direction for 4 cables, and there divides ; the longer arm (Kxposed arm) I'xtends in a south-easterly direction for '^ miles, and terminates in a swamp fnmted by a sand flat. Tint shorter arm takes a north-west direction for ]\ miles, passing northward of Leading island, and is 2v, cables wide.* Anchoragi' may be ol)taiued in the North-west arm (Ship anchorage) in 15 to 20 fathoms, mud l)(>ttom, in mid-channel, at one cable from either shore. Directions. — Entering Klewnuggit inlet, having cleared Morning reefs {sec page 4)57), keep in mid-channel between Camp point and Leailing island. Pass 2 cables S.E. of the latter, and anchor on its north side in 8hip anchorage. In this position the south-east extreme of Leading island should be seen in line with a con- spicuous clifF of purple colour, on the south shore of Exposed arm, bearing South. Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in Klewnuggit anchorage at Oh. IJOm.; springs rise 17 feet. STUART ANCHORAGE, situated on the south shore of Grenville channel, 25), miles westward of Lowe islet, lies 5 cables westward of a long, low, wooded projection, which serves to distinguish it.t Sta^ rock uncovers 115 feet at low water, and lies 4 caltles W. by N. Ij N. from the above-mentioned point. Tiiis rock has foul ground extending innn it 4 cables in a W.N.W. direction, and a small patch, which uncovers at low water, lies one cable south from the rock. * Set Admiralty I'lan ;— Klewnuytrit inlet, on shofit of i)laiis. Xo. 2,{H\) ; xcjvio III = 3"7") inches. t iSfet' Admiralty plan; — Stuart anohnrage, on shoot of plans, Xo. I.'.iul ; scale «t = rt inchen. 440 MILBANK SOUND TO CFIATIIAM SOUND. [Chiip. XI. i 1 The whole of this foul gruuiul is indicated by kolp during .summer and autumn. AnchOrag'e will bo found in 10 to 15 fathoms, rock, '2 cables \V. ^ S. from Stag rock ; with tht; south extreme of Gibson island seen touching the north side of t'itt island (Calvert point) bearing W.N.W. northerly. Directions. — Proceeding for this anchorage, especially at high water, care is necessary. Pass 2 cables westward of the foul ground extending from the Stag rock, and anchor when at one cable to the southward. Tides. — It is high water, full and change, at Stuart anchorage at Oh. 30m. ; springs i-ise 17 feet. The tidal streams meet abreast Evening i)oint ; eastwartl of that point the flood approaches from the eastward, and wtestward of the point from the westward. At springs the flood stream in the narrow portions of Grenville channel attains the velocity of 2 knots, and the ebb 4 knots an hoiu-. The latter stream continues to run for Ih hours after low water l»y the shore. Abreast Lowe inlet, strong eddies will be felt on the ebb. False Stuart anchoragre lies on the south shore :5 miles east- ward of Stuart anciiorage. On its north-west side tiiere is a high, bold, projection. This point should serve to distinguish Fidse Stuart anchorage from Stuart anchorage, as the hitter has a long, low, projection on its south-east side. The water is deep, close to Uie shore. Kxn geal, an unexplored inlet (m the north shore, ;") cables west- ward of Evening point, is 5 caljles wide at its entrance, and takes a north-west direction. A rock which uncovers lies 2 cables south-east of the north-west entrance point of Kxn geal inlet. At (I miles W.N.W. from Kxn geal is Baker inlet with a narrow oi)ening, but apparently quite extensive within, and in an easterly direction ; a small islet or rock lies in the entrance. From this in a west and south-westerly direction nearly ',\ miles is a narrow but deep opening, which from (xrenville channel appears to cut Pitt island iu two, and may join the eastern arm of Petrel channel. Hee chart, No. l,923rt. (vhap. XI.] GRENVILLE CHANNEL.— OGDEN CHANNEL. 441 Kum ea Ion, au uuux.piuied inlol on thf north shore, iibreast of False Stuart anchorages has an entrance 2 cables wide, and takes a northerly directif)n. Some small islets lie near the north shore of GrenvilJe channel westward of Kum ea Ion inlet. GIBSON ISLANDS, a grou]), situated in the western portion of Granville channel, at its confluence with Ogden channel, consists, of an island, IGO feet high, about one mile in extent, and wooded, and several smaller islets and rocks ; the shores of the larger' island are broken into sevei-al bays. On the east side of the large island is Bloxham island, of small extent, and Lamb islet lies one cable from the north-east shore.* r y |a ^t tt Watson rock uncovers 18 fe«t at low water springs, and lies 2 cables from *''e south shore of Gibson island. Bloxani shoal extends G cables north-eastward from the south- east extreme of Bloxham island, and extends northward of Gibson islands at that distance, with depths of one to 3 fathoms over it. Gunboat harbour, between Gibson and Bloxham islands, is a small harbour, which faces the soitth-east, affording temporary anchorage to small vessels, in 4 to 10 fathoms, one cable within the entrance, in mid-channel. Bedford island, of small extent, lies ;■) cables N.N.W. from the larger Gibson island. Bedford spit extends 15 cables S.W. I'lom Bedford island. The channel between Bedfonl and Gibson islands has depths of 4 fathoms and less in it ; this passage is not recom- mended. Marrack island lies .') cables N.N.W. of Bedford island and is one mile in extent. Marrack rock, which luicovers, lies nearly in mid-channel between Bedford and Marrack islands. Port Fleming.— Between Marrack, Bedford, and Gibson islands, and the mainland eastward of them there is a good harbour named port Fleming, of even soundings, from 3 to 7 fathoms, Avitli mudily bottom, and very little tide. Captain Madden, an old trader and pilot, stated that he always found this iiarbou ■ good, well sheltered from winds, and free from currents and sea. The approach to port Fleming from the north is by Arthur passage. See Admiralty plan : — Ogden ohannel. No l.'.tOl ; scale, m = 10 inches. 442 MILBANK SOUND TO CHATHAM .SOUND. [Chap. XI. Good anchorapje in reported on tlu' wcHt siilc of Siuitli inland, opposite mount McGrath. KENl^EDY IGLAND is Hi milos lon.i,' in a north-w»^st and south-east direction, wiih an averajife I)readth of '.\ miles, is woodeil, rising p[radualiy, and culminates near the middle in two conspicuous peaks, 2,7(5') and 2,170 feet hif,'h resi)ectively. The western and southern coasts of Kennedy island are boM, and little broken ; the northern eoasts have not been examined in detail.* Cardena bay, is an opim bay on the south-east side of Kennedy island, and is skirted by a mud bank, which extends over '> cables from the shore, with dej)ths of 5 to 10 fathoms upon it. It is a fjfood temporary stopping place in case of fogs or darkness on reaching Chatham soinid. Anchorage may be found on the bank, in 7 to S fathoms good liolding-ground, at 15 cables from the shore of Kennedy island ; and it is the best ancliorage in the vicinity of Hkeena river, sheltered from North and S.K. Lewis island, situated one mile southward of Kennetly island, is low, wooded, narrow, and 2g miles long, in a north-west and south-east direction. A shoal upon which the " Corona " was wrecked, extends 'A cables S.E. by E. \ E. from Henderson point, the south-east extreme of Lewis island ; from Henderson point it has a depth of feet at the extreme, and a rock that dries 10 feet at low water lies one cable from the point in the same direction. ARTHUR PASSAGE, between Kennedy and Lewis islands, is about 5 miles long, in a general north-west and south-east direction, and about one mile wide, with depths of 18 to ()3 fathoms, mud. Herbert reefs He on the western side of Arthur passage, about 4 cables from the north-east extreme of Lewis island, and G cables distant from Kennedy island. This dangerous reef consists of two rocks which uncover at low water, with depths of 7 and 9 fathoms between them, lying north-west and south-east, distant 5 cables, from each other. There are depths of 37 fathoms and over at one cable northward, and of 20 fathoms at one cable southward of Herbert reefs. The eastern and smaller Genn island seen in line with the south extreme of White Cliff island, bearing N.W. ^ W., leads northward of Herbert reefs. * See Ailmiialty plan : — Brown and Edye passages, No. 2,4f>3 ; i^wile, w= 1 inch. Chap. XI.] KP:NVKI)Y ISLANf).— CHALMKUS A>fOnOUA(!K. 443 V Lawson harbour, on iIk' imrtli-wt-Hi sidr of l^i-wia island, is iibout r> ciihlt^s lon^ in a north-west and sonth-i-ast direction, and 5 cables wide. Anchoraire for small vessels may lie fonnd in 4 fathoms, in mid-channel, abont one cable within Lawson liari-iiur. Elliott island, north-w^-st of Lewis island, is low and wooded ; aboul 1] miles Ion?,' in a W.N.W. anil E.S.E. direction, with afjrreatest breadth of three-quarters of a mile. Hloxam passajje, between Lewis and Elliott islands, and connecting Arthnr and Chismore passa^'es, is about 2 cables wide, with a depth of 21 fathoms in mid-channel. Elizabeth island lies westward of Elliott island, is nearly \\ miles long in a W.N.W. and E.S.E. direction, with an average breadth of three-(j[uarters of a mile. With the exception of a hill, 3;U feet high, near its eastern end, this island ia low and wooded. Jiamlield islands, a group of small islets, lie about a quarter of a mile from the northern shore of Elizabeth island ; \\ cables eastward from these islands are some reefs. A deep but narrow passage exists between Bamfield islands and the reefs. CHISMORE PASSAGE, between Porcher island on the south and Lewis, Elliott, and Elizabeth islaiuls to the north, is about 4 miles long in a W.N.W. and E.S.E. direction, and from 2 to T) cables wide, with depths of 4 to 21 fathoms, mud. It is obstructed by fold ground at its southeastern end, and is oidy accessible for ships l>y Hloxham passage, a narrow channel leading into Arthur passage between Lewis and Elliott islands. Kelp passagre, between Lewis and Porcher islands, is available only for boats. Elizabeth rock, which uncovers at low water, lies one cable from the south shore of Elizabeth island, at one mile within the western entrance of Chismore passage. Anchoragre may be obtained, in mid-channel, in 7 to Id fathoms, 2 cables from the south shore of Elliott island, with (Jenn islands seen midway between Elliott and Elizabeth islands, bearing N.N.W. I W. Good holding ground and excellent shelter. CHALMERS ANCHORAGE, on the north-west side of Elliott island, is formed at the junction of that island with Elizabeth island. S$f chart, No. 2,4.5:}. I iU MILBANK SOUND TO CHATHAM SOUND. [^^hii]). XI, Anohoragre may be found ill l;*) to 1 I riulioiiis, ;it ■? (•il)U'H I'roui the nortli-wt'Ht extreme of KUiott iHlaiid ; with that extremo sei'ii in line with Houth extreme of White Clill ishuid, hcarinj,' X.N.K. i K. White Cliff island, '3f'() t\et lil^ii, situated nearly midway 1)01 veen Kenntsdy mul i^lUiott islands, at (I cables northward of the laifer, is al)out half a mile lonjj: in a north and soutii direction ; its south t.-xtreme terniinatinj,' in liii,di, bold, white dill's. A leilge extends 2 cables southward from White Clill island. Marble has been (juarried at White Clill' island. Cecil patch, seldom marked by kelj), has 4 fathoms upon it, and lies one mile West from the south extreme of White Clifl island. There are depths of 7 and 18 fathoms at KM) yards from the patch. The summit of Kennedy island (Klizabeth peak), seen in line with the south extreme of White Cliif island, bearing K. by S., will lead northward of Cecil patch. Genn islands consist of two small wooded islands, about 1:20 feet high, lying close together in an east and west direction. The eastern and smaller island lies 2^ miles X.W. ^ W. from the south extreme of White Cliff island. Bribery island consists of low rocks very little al)ove high water, and lies 8 cables W. by S. from the western Genn island. Lawyer g'roup consist of two principal islands, and several smaller ones, about one mile in extent, in a N.W. by W. and S.K. by K. direction. The eastern and smallest island of the group lies 5 cables W. by S. from Bribery island. Cruice rock, of small extent, covers at three-quariers flood, and lies 2;^ cables W. ^ N. from the western Lawyer island. Hunt point (Quil mass) the north extreme of Porche'- island, is about 3 miles westward of Chismore passage. Temporary anchorage in off shore winds may be had under the point in about 10 fathoms. MALACCA PASSAGE, situated between Porcher island and the Genn and Lawyer groups, is al)out (i miles long, in a W. liy N. and Vi. by S. direction^ and about 1| miles wide, with depths of 21 to 81 fathoms, mud, the latter depth being found in the western portion of the channel. See chart, No. 2,45-t. Chap. XI.] ARTHUR PASSAGE.— SKRRVA RIVRR. 445 Directions. — The Hnmmit of Kennedy inhiud, Kliziiheth jjeak (l)are patches on nortli-west Hide), seen in line with the south extreme of White Cliff island, bearinj^ K. by S., will lead through Malacca passage. SKEENA RIVER, the largest river on the coast of British Columbia, northward of Fraser river, takes its rise in lake I5abine, near the village of Naas glee, about 200 miles l)eyond port Kssington. At 1,'20 miles from port Kssington th(f river divides into three branches, known as the Forks of th(^ Skeena, the principal bi-anch taking a northerly direction, tlie others a north-west and south-east direction respectively. The shores of Skeena are said to be low, covered with small hard wood and cotton trees ; also good sized white oaks, similar to those found on the banks of Fraser river. The shores at the entrance are densely wooded, chiefly cedar and hemlock, and bear evidence of a remarkably wet climate. Caution. — Unless under the guidance of a pilot, as the channels of the Skeena are subject to periodical changes, it is recommended, liefore attempting them, to buoy the channtd by boats or other means. Navigable depths. — At (5 miles below port Kssington, the river divides into three channels named North, ]\Iiddle and Telegraph passages. North channel (The Slue) is suitable only for small craft. It is about 3 cables wide, with several sunken rocks, and only 2], fathoms of water, and the current is very swift. Middle channel is obstructed by shifting sand banks, and is only fit for boats. Telegraph passage is the main passage with not less than 4 fathoms in the channel. For about 20 miles above port Essington the Skeena is available for vessels drawing 4 feet water ; beyond that distance it is only navigable for canoes. The head of navigation, for vessels drawing over t) feet, may be said to terminate (i miles beyond port Essington, and 21 miles from the mouth of the river. The river is navigable for light-draught steamers as far as Mumf ord landing, GO miles inland, and 200 miles further for canoes. The head of tidal water is about 18 miles above port Essington. The river is navigable witli dilTicuUy for small stern-wheelers alxuit S)r chart. No. 2,453. 44<; MILBANK SOUND TO CHATHAM SOdND. [Chap, XI. I5H inilos above tidal water to Kitsinn.Lrallum, whero thoro is a trail up the valley of Kitsnin^'alluiii river, to the head wat(>rH of Nass river. It in about 100 Tniles from tidal water, with a rise of 72r) feet to Skeena forks or llazeltoii, a Hetlleineut not far from the abandoned fort Staler. Telegrraph pa^sag'e, the southernmost and prineipal ehannel of Skeena river, is about S miles lonj,' N.W. by N. and S.K. by S., with an averaf?e width of l.\ miles. The western side of the channel is rendered danji^erous by sand flats, some of Avhich dry, extending from the eastei-n side of Kennedy islajul, but the eastern side has depths of 1 to 17 fathoms. Middle passag'e, situated between Kennedy and De Horsey islands, is obstructed at its western entrance by sand flats, some of which uncover, leaving a passage only available for boats. North, passage, between Tsimpsean peninsula and Smith and De Horsey islands, lias a depth of about 2}j fathoms in some parts, and is not I'ecommended. Mount McGrath on Smith island is conspicuous, ;2,220 feet high. x\.t the entrance to this })assage several dangers lie nearly in mid-channel ; the navigabh' channel lies on the south shore, and is barely one cable wide in some parts. Near the entrance of North Skeena passage there is a considerable mining camp called Willaciagh. From Inverness (Woodcock landing), on the north shore of North Skeena passage, a narrow inlet extends westward of north, joining the sea, near Coast islet, the inlet continuing north-westerly joins the large basin in which Oldlield island (containing mount Oldfield, 2,300 feet high) is situated. This basin enters Malacca passage between Lima point and Coast islet, and connects with Metlah Catlah bay through Venn creek. The land west of Oldfield basin, K.S.E. from Metlah Catlah, has been named Digby island. Anch.Orag'e. — There is no good anchorage off Inverness, the ground being hard and pebbles, and the ebb-stream very strong. There is a dangerous rock between Leer point and the village, and any vessel anchoring oflC Inverness would be very liable to be set down on it. See chart, No. 2,453. Cha]). XT.] SKRKNA RIVER , -POUT ESSIN'OTON. 447 4(1, Rocks. — Three diingorous nuiiken rocks lie in iiiitl iirar the fair- way in port KHHinf,'ton. The northern rock, which dries 2 fet?i at ordinary h)\v water,lies witli Veitch point S.W. hy S. distant 2,*, luile^, and northern extreme of Villaj^o ishuid, at the western side <.f lh«* entrance to Kcstall river, S, K. 1 K. The centre rock, whicli is the most (hmj^cTous, dries one foot at low water sprinj,'s, and lies with Vietch point S.W. ^ S. distant 2,';, miles, and northern extreme of Villafje island S. by K. i K. Th«' southern sunken rock is aw:t.sh at ordinary low water, aid lies with Vietch point S.W. distant 2/„ miles, and northern extreme of ViUa{.fe island S.K. 'l E. distant .")<» yanls. A black spar buoy is moored on tlu' centre rock lyinj; on the eilgu of the shoal water northward of Villa<,'e island. The buoy will lie flat at low water, and is liable to l)e run under by the tidal sir»-ain. PORT ESSINGTON (Spuk sut) lies on the south shore of Skeena river, about 11 miles from its mouth and G miles from De Iloj'sey island, an- affords extensive anchorage. The villa<re i.s situated on the west side of a point formin<i the antrle between the Skeena and Kcstall river. The settlement, l^almoral, is on the east side of the mouth of Kcstall i-iver. Steam-vessels call regularly at the large cannery at Pialmoral. At 2 miles above Kaspberry islands, on the southern shore, is a hot spring, 110° Fhr., about 100 yards from the shoi-e, the iidiabitants use it for rheumatic ; fVections. AncllOrage with good holding ground will be fouml iu mitl- channel abreast port Essington, in 4 to 7 fathoms, mud. A heavy cross-sea is caused by strong winds from seaward Itetween N.W. to S.E., and vessels would be vei'y liable to foul and trip their anchors. :i Raspberry islands, situated eastward of port Essington, consist of two wooded islets, lying close to the eastern shore ; they are joined at low water, and the passage between them ami tlie southern shore is only tit for boats. Supplies. — Potatoes of large size and good quality are plentiful ; also berries, which are dried by the Indians for their winter food. The Skeena is a ]iro1ific salmon stream, and (ish of the finest (piality Stjr (!hart. No. 2,4")3. 448 MILBANK SOUND TO CHATHAM SOUND. [Ohi'l). XI. iir«' procured hero. Good timber Ih i)Ioiitii'nl imd of largv size, ertpi'ciully Mpruci* und yellow Alaska cedar. Tides and tidal streams.— Tho tides am subject to couHider.ibh* diurnal iiiecjuality. It is IukIi water at full and ehanfje in port Kssiui,'- ton at 111. Oni. ; spriiif,' rise 2i feet, noaps 1.') fet^t. The flood stream at the entrance attains the velocity of 4, and the elib T) knots an hour at sprinf^s, and the latter is at times mncli accelerated by freshets. Winds. — During' September Ka.sterly and S.K. wiiuls, accom- l)anied by almost continuous rain, with fre(juent S(jualls, have been experienced. Coal. — Kitsaf<atla, on Skeena river, is reported to bo an extensive coal country, the seains beiu^' cut through by the river, and from 15 to H') feet thick. Ice. — The North passage of Skeena river is lilocked full of ice n(>arly all the Vv'inter, but it seldom reaches down as far as Kennedy island. Port Fleming is free from ice. From Kcstall river comes the greater part of the ice-floes which encumber the Skeena in tho cold season. Strong N.Fi. gales in winter interrupt communication with the shore, and though not frozen Dver there is much loose ice, iis also quantities of heavy drift- wood. Ships could not remain at port Essington during the mouths of December, January, February and March, and well into April. The snowfall has been about G feet on the level. Sfc chart, No. 2,45:?. 140 CITAPTEK XII. CHA.THAM SOUND, EDYE AND BROWN PASSAGES. AND DIXON ENTRANCE. Vartatiox, 27' 0' East in ISOS. CHATHAM SOUND is iil).)iit :',S milt-s long N.W. by N. and S.E. by S., 1111(1 from 7 lo II miles widr. lyinfr Ix-twvfn the Tsimjisean l)eninsalu and Stephens and Dundas islands.* 111 the middle oC tlie soiithein iiortion an- two groups of islands ( Rachel and Lucy islands) (oi^'ethri with fithcr detached islets and rock's, especially on tin- north -liore, Chatham sound communicates with Hcate strait by three channels, Edye passage, in the ,sontli-west • onier of the sound, being the channel usually taken (.nw page lti7). Brown passage, south of Dundas islands, though comparatively wide, has .strong and irregular tides near its western end ; and a patch of rocl:s awash at high water lies nearly in mid-channel. Landmarks. — On the north shore, in the .south-eastern portion of Chatham L-iound, mount Oldlield and mount McGrath, 2,3U(> and •2,220 feet high respectively, are conspicuous. With the exception of a cluster of bare rocks (Gull rock.s) off the mouth of Edye passage, the islets in that p-ortion of the sound are wooded, and of a conspicuous dark colour. On South Dundas islaiul, there are four conspicuous peaks, the eastern and highest of which is 1,1(10 feet hijrh. Northward (d' Metlah Catlah, Mission mountain, and Deer mound, of rounded form, will be seen rising from comparatively low land to 1,310 and 2,230 feet respectively. Coast mound, a conspicuous hill of oval shape, 750 feet high, will be seen on Middle Dundas island, with a chain of wooded islets, of a peculiarly dark colcrr, fringing the shore. * Sfi' Arlmiraity plan : — Brown i;ii(i lidye iiassajres. No. 2A'>'.i : -scale, m = 1 inch : also .Admiralty chart : — Cape Caution to port .Simpson, northern jwrtinn. N'o. \.'j-23ii ; >!cale, III = U'2.") of an inoh. SO 11948 2F 450 CHATHAM SOUND. [Chap. XII. Near the north-east extreme of North Dnndaa island, Table hill with a flat summit rises 700 feet, and is conspicuous. Southward of Table hill, Thumb peak rises 2,5(J0 feet. With the exception of one small islet (Grassy islet), the islets and rocks in the northern portion of C liatham sound are bare and conspicuous. At 2 miles southward of port Simpson, mount Griffin (Waverly peak), a mountain with a sharp summit, rises to 1,410 feet. South- east of mount GrilFin, the ridi^o has several conspicuous peaks risinj? to nearly 3,000 feet, amongst which are Leading peak and Basil Lump 2,200 and 2,9C»(^ feet high respectively. Mount McNeil, on the north side of Work channel, has a snow-clad summit, of conical shape, 4,300 feet high. Dangrers. — The southern portion of Chatham sound is compara- tively free from /langer, the rocky clusters being of considerable elevation above high water and moderately steep-to. Northward of Metlah Catlah bay, however, ledges which uncover at low water extend in many places 2 miles from the eastern shore. On the western side of the sound .ilso, there are several off-lying detached sunken rocks, with deep water close to them. Abreast port Simpson, two clusters of rocks lie in the fairway of the sound ; and being but little elevated above high water, render that portion of the sound dangerous by night or in thick weather. Caution. — Northward of Metlah Catlah bay, during a fog, or if uncertain of the position, the eastern shores of Chatham sound should not be approached under 70 fathoms ; nor the western shores under 40 fathoms. Anchorages. — Anchorage will be found off the north entrance of Skeena river (p. 44')), in Metlah Catlah bay (p. 452), Duncan bay (p. 451)), Big bay (p. 4.58), Pearl harbour (p. 4(J0), and Port Simpson (p. 462), Refuge bay (p. 400), and in Qlawdzeet (p. 470). Gull rocks consist of three bare rocks, about half a mile in extent, the highest rock being about 30 feet above high water, lying off the north entrance of p]dye passage, 3 miles W. by N., from the north- west extreme of Porcher island (Hunt point), and 3^ miles from the nearest portiim of Prescott island. Ettrick rock, a dangerous patch of small extent, which uncovers 3 feet at low water, lies 1^ miles S.E. by K. from the centre of the See chart, No. 2,453. Chap. XII.] GULL ROCKS.— LUCY ISLANDS. 451 luler ;overs •f the Gull rocks. Havelock rock, of small extent and nncovoring G feet at low water, lies 2h miles S.E, by E. from the centre of Gull rocks, and one mile S.W. by W. from Hunt i)oint. Both Ettrick and Havelock rocks have deep water close to. KitSOn island, situated off the mouth of North Skeena passage, is about 2 cables in extent, and lies U, miles N.E. V E. from Holland island. Shoal ground, with depths of (1 to <S feet on it at ordinary low water, extends about G cables in a south-easterly direction from the southern end of Kitson island ; near the outer end of this shoal ground the water deepens to 55 fathoms. The passage between Kitson island and Leer point is only navigable by boats. Green Top island, 15 feet high, is small, with a patch of shrub on its summit, and lies 4^ miles N.W. by W. ] W. from the western island of the Lawyer group. Holland island, small, wooded, and 10 feet high, lies V\ miles E. by N. ;| N. from Green Top islet. Kinnalian islands, two in numb(!r, and about half a mile long, lie close together in a X.W. and S.E. direction, about one mile from the shore of Tsimpsean peninsula ; they are wooded, about 200 feet high. The south extreme of South Kinnahan islands lies 1] miles N.N.W. from Green Top island. Rachel islands (Lak oh witz), two in number, about one mile in extent, in a X.W. and S.E. direction, wooded and about 200 feet liigh, lie nearly midway between Tsimpsean peninsula and Stephens island. The soutli-east extreme of the south-east Rachel island lies ;V| miles N.W. from the northernmost Gull rock. Alexandra patcli is nearly circular, one niik> in diameter, within the depili of 20 fathoms. This l)ank has di'pths of 10 to 17 fathoms, over a bottom of mud and sand. The eastern edge of Alexandra patch lies one mile Nortli of the norlh Rachel island. Lucy islands (Lachspanner), a group of islands and high-water rocks, the larger islands being wooded and the small bare, lie nearly in the middle of the sound abreast !Metlali Catlali bay, and are about one mile in extent in an east and west direction. The summit of the eastern and largest island is 200 feet high, and lies 5] miles N.W. from the north extreme of the north Rachel island. This group is Srr chart, Xo. 2.4:>;?. SO 11«48 2h'3 I 452 CHATHAM SOUND. [Chap. XII. of great use when making Metlah Catlah dui'ing thick weather, as Ijeing comparatively free from danger it maj' be approached (except on the south side), and, when made, tlie easternmost isUind of the group kept astern bearing 8.W, h W. will lead to the entrance of Metlah Catlah bay. A ledge of rocks, 1[ miles in length in a north-west and south-east direction, which partially uncover, extends from 4 to 1) cables south- Avard, and to south-westward of the Lucy group ; the outer rock lying i) cables South from the summit of the eastern island of the group. The north-western rock dries 3 feet anil lies 2h cables S.W. h W., from the nearest island of the group, and is marked by kelp. TSIMPSEAN PENINSULA separates Skeena river from Work channel, being barely half a mile wide abreast the mouth of Skip river. This peninsula (which takes its name from a tribe of Indians residing upon it) is nearly ;52 miles long, in a general north- west and south-east direction, with a greatest breadth of i) miles. The head-(piarters of the tribe of Indians inhabiting this peninsula are at Metlah Catlah and port Simpson. METLAH CATLAH BAY is formed between the shore of th<' Tsimpsean peninsula and the north-west coast of Digby ishind, and is |)rotected from the westward l)y Tugwell island and the reefs which join that island to the shore of the peninsula. The bay from its entrance takes a general northerly direction for one mile, gradually narrowing as the settlement is api)r()a('hed ; it then turns shari)ly to the east and south-east, the latter part being known as Venn creek.* Metlah Catlah Villagre, an Indian settlement, founded as a missionary station, is situated upon Mission point. The houses forming the mission are built upon an elevated bank, about 100 feet above high-water mark, and are mostly whitewashed ; tlii' whole settlement frcn the oiling presenting the appearance of a picturestpie English village. The most conspicuous buildings being the church, school-house, and mission house. Tug'Well island lies about 2 miles south-westward of Metlah Catlah village, and those desirous of communicating with that place usually anchor oil" the eastern side of the island, or olf its northern side in Duncan liay, according to circumstances. Tugwell island is iSi'c chart, No. 2,4o:<. • Si'e Admiralty plan ; — Metlah Catlah bay, No. 304 ; scale, to = 3 inches. riiap. XTT.] METLAII CATTiAH RAY. 453 )f th. Iletlah place I'tlu'rn luul Ih about 1] luilt^s loii;.', in a north and sonth direction, with an avoraj;;' breadth of lialf a mile, and is frinj^ed by dangerous rocky <xround) marked by kidp, especially on its soutii-eastern side. It is wooded (the tops of the ti'ei^s being al)out 200 I'eet high), and is connecteil at low water with Mission point upon which JMetlah Catlah village stands. A black buoy, in IV.V fathoms, marks the south-east side of Tugwell island reef with Dawes point W.N.W. distant (I cables. Dawes rock, awash at low water, lies 4 cables S.S.W. h W. from the south extrejue of Tugwell islaml (Dawes point). Between Dawes rock and Dawes point, large boulder rocks uncover at low water, and extend along the western side of Tugwell island, generally marked by kelp. Enfield rock has .5 fathoriis on it, and lies (Uie mile S.S.W. ^ W. from the south extreme of Tugwell island, with foul ground between. Caution. — Vessels should pass westward of Enfield rock, in not less than 10 fathoms, at low watt'r. Alford reefs are a dangerous cluster of rocks, about )) cables in extent north and south, lying at the entrance of Metlah Catlah bay. The northern i-ock, which micovers two feet at low water, lies () cables N.W. by W. from Quartermaster rock. A red can buoy is moored in (] fathoms, half a cable from the west end of these reefs. The south extreme of the large Cridge island, in line with Quarter- master I'ock, bearing E. by N., will lead southward of the reefs ; tlu' summit of Knight island kept midway between Pike and Shrub islands, bearing N.N.E. .] E., will lead westward. Quartern)aster rock, a small black rock, 2 feet above high w'ater, lies 4 cables W. by S. from the south extreme of the large C'ridge island. A rock, which uncovers one foot at low water, lies 1^ cables South from Quartermaster rock. Midge rt)ck, a i»atcli of snudl extent, which uncovirs at low water, lies half a mile North from Quarter- master rock. Cridge islands, two in number, lie at the south-east entrance of Metlah Catlah bay: the eastern and larger island is 150 feet high, and lies 2 cables from the eastern shore of the bay (Digby islands). See chart, No. 364. 454 CHATHAM SOUND. tChiip. XII. The western ishiml is siiuiU, 101 1 L'ret hii;li, and iien 2 cables W. by S. from the south extreme of tlie hirger Criilgo ishvml. Both ishinds are Avooded. Devastation island lies almost in the centre of the bay half a mile eastward of Tugwell island, and is nearly one-third of a mile long, nortli and south, and 201) yards broad. The island is wooded, 150 feet high, and two rocky islets lie close to its south extreme, from the northern extreme of this island, a shoal, portions of which uncover at low water, extends half a mile X.E. Knight island, barely lO feet high, small, with stunted scrub upon it, lies 4 cables E. '^ S. from the nortli extreme of Devastation island. Armour rock, with 9 feet water over it, lies S.E. by S., distant one cable from Knight island. Pike island, 100 feet high and wootled, is about one-third of a mile long in a north and south direction, and its south extreme lies 7 cables lO.N.E. from the north end of Devastation island. Carr islet, small, about (iO feet high, lies half a mile N. by E. from the north extreme of Devastation island, and is connected at low water with the spit which joins Tugwell island and Observation point. Shrub islet lies 1,\ cables W.N.W. from the north side of Pike island, is of small extent, and low. A shoalj the outer portion of which uncovers at low water, extends nearly 2 cables from the north side of Shrub islet, and is the outer portion of a l)ank of sand with patches of rock upon it, which connects Pike island, Shrub islet, Gribbell and Isabel islands at low water. A small stone beacon, surmounted by a stall' and cross piece painted red, 8 feet above high water, stands on the end of the rock^ ledge 1^ cables W. by N. ;{ N. from Shrub islet. This beacon shoukl not be approached nearer than 70 feet. Kelp I'OCk, a dangerous sunken rock, lies nearly midway between Shrub islet and Observation i)oint, 2 cables from either. The navigable channel between Shrub islet and Observation point, is contracted by Kelp rock to barely half a cable in width at low water. A black buoy, with top mark, is moored close eastward of Kelp rock on the north side of the channel. A black spar buoy, in 10 feet, on the point of the reef 1^ cables eastward. And a black spar buoy, in 6 feet, also on north side, with Mission point N.N.E., distant &'(■ chart, No. 'Ml. Chiip. XII.] METLAH CATLAH BAY. 455 2 cables. Thin buoy will lio tUit at low water ; the channel is close to. Gribbell island, situated on the south side ol' the channel leiiding into Venn creek, is about the same size as Shrui) islet, from which it is distant 5 cables N.E. A small rocky islet lies about half a cable oil" the north side of (rribbell island. Isabel island lies U cables N.N.E. from the summit of Gribbell island, and I] cables Houth from !\[ission point. A dangerous sunken rock lies half a cable westward of Isabel island, and reduces the navigable channel at low water to barely GO yards in wi dth. Venn creek takes an K. by S. direction from ^tission poini, but is only suitable for small vessels. There are several fishing stations ui)on the shores of this creek, in which the Indians obtain salmon, Venn creek at its head connects with the unexplored Oldlield basin, east of Digl)y island, which extends southwanl and eastward, connecting with Malacca and North 8keeua passages. Anchorage will be found in 11 to 12 fathoms, mud bottom, 13 cables off the western side of Devastation island, with the south extreme of Devastation island seen in line with the smaller Cridge island, bearing S.E. by S., and the south extreme of Carr islet seen in line with the flagstaff on Mission point, bearing N.E. \ N. Small vessels occasionally proceed into Venn creek and anchor off Metlah Catlah village, in 10 to 12 fathoms, with the flagstaff on ^[ission point bearing W. by 8. distant ii to 4 cables. The channel into this anchorage is barely (!0 yards wide at low water, when the dangers on either side indicate themselves, but the passage should only be attempted by short vessels, of light di-aught ; and at all times it would be well to place boats upon the rock which lies westward of Isabel island, and likewise on Kelp rock, should the buoys marking those dangers not be in position. Directions. — Approaching Metlah Catlah from the south-eastward, if the Lawyer group of islands be kept in line with Green Top island bearing S.E. by E. \ E., that mark astern will lead directly to the entrance of Metlah Catlah bay. During a fog or in thick weather, when approaching Metlah Catlah from the south-eastward, do not shoal to less than 40 fathoms, and See chart, No. 364. r I 4'ye> CIIATJIAM SOUND. [('Imp. XII. on Huch oucurtions the Lucy iHlaiuls should be (•;iiiti<»u«ly stecivd lor and sighted, taking' carc^ to avoid Iho rei'l'd whicli extend from the south and wouth-west side of the <,'roiip. The hirge or eastern Lucy ishind shouhl be brouj^ht to bear S.W. ';[ W. astern, and a N.E. 't K. course should take a vessel to the entrance of ^letlali Catlah bay. The bank of 10 fathoms (and less watei') extends nearly one mile southward of TuLfwell island, and the hand lead (if pro- ceeding slowly) should indicate the position. During summer and autumn large quantities of kelp mark this bank. To enter, Knight island, kept mitlway between Shrub and Pike islands bearing N.N.K. ] M, leads in to the bay, between Tugwell island and Alford reefs, in '2') fathoms. {See View on plan No. 364.) Carr islet, just shut in with the western extrem*! of Devastation island, bearing N. by E. northerly, will lead eastward of the foul ground off the south-eastern part of Tugwell island. The south extreme of the large Cridge island seen in line with Quartermaster rock, and t(niching the north extreme of the small Cridge island beai'ing E, by N., will lead southward of the dangers off Tugwell island. Auriol point, just open north of Shrub islet bearing N.E. ^ E., leads between the foul ground southward of Carr island and the ledge extending from the north extreme of Devastation islanil, ami when Ryan point comes open east of Carr island bearing N.W. h X. u cour.se may be steered as requisite for Venn creek. Tides. — It is high water, full and change, at Metlah Catlah at noon ; springs rise 21 feet, neaps 17 feet. DUNCAN BAY, on the north side of Tugwell island, affords anchorage when desirous of communicating with Metlah Catlah during the prevalence of south-easterly winds. The entrance to this bay between the nortn extreme of Tugwell island and Ryan point is about 1:| miles wide, and takes an easterly direction for about l.V miles, terminating in the sandspit which con- nects Tugwell island and Tsimpsean peninsula (Observation point) at low water. A shoal, v;^ith 3 fathoms (and probably less) water upon it, extends half a mile northward of Tugwell island. Ledges, which uncover, and sunken rocks, extend nearly 7 cables from the north shore of Duncan bay. Set- chart, No. 3t)4. rhii)). XII.] DUNCAN l!AY.— HiDCSOX UEIil-'.S. I.)( HecatO rock, with I't t\'ot watw on it, lies near tlic iicud oT Duuciiu bay, '.] cables rr<)iii the north shore and half a mile W. by X. from Observation point. Directions. — If desirous of anehorinL; in Duncan 1 ay, pass ow mile north-westward of Tu^'well island, and when the south extremi' of Gribbeli island is seen jnst open of Observation point, beariny: E. \ S., thai mark should be steered for; a berth should be taken tip on that bearing, in 8 to 10 fathoms, mud, with Chai)man point, the north-west extreme of Tugwell island, l)earinj? S.W. by \V. TREE BLUFF, the south ciurance point of iJiy- bay, lies .') miles X.N.W. I W. from Hyan i)<)iiU, the north eiitfaiiee point of niiiuMii bay. The shore northward of Ryan point is low and wooded for .'5 miles back from the coast, where it rises into hiyh land. Two streams enter the sound on this i)art of the coast, and there are two islets lyinf? close to the shore, respectividy (me anil "2 miles northward of Ryan point. The former (Swamp islet) is covered with low grass, and lies about .') cal)le8 from the shore. The latter islet is ban- (Slippery rock) about 4 cables from ♦^he shore.* Immediately southward of Tree bluff there is a wooded hill, close to the sliore, 2")0 feet high. Between Metlah Catlah and Big bays, ilangerons leilges extend oil shore in many places to the distance of 2 miles. These ledges uncover at low water, and are steep-to. Abreast Tree blul! the edge of the bank, which dries at low water, lies 1!^ miles from the shore. Hodgson reefs, a dangerous cluster, lie northward of Duncan bay; their southern part covers at half flood, and lies :2 ntiles X.W. from the north-west extreme of Tugwell island, and 1] miles W, ;[ S. from Ryan point. From that position, dangerous sunken rocks extend in a N.N.W, direction for 2 miles, A red can buoy, in 5 fathoms, marks the south-west extreme of the reefs, with Ryan point E. .^ N,, distant 1,"„ miles. The south side ol; Kinnahau islands, just showing clear of the south end of Tugwell island bearing S.E. :j 1]., h'ads westward of Hodgson reefs; and the eastern island of the Lucy group irhould not be brought to bear south of S, by E. (astern) until mount Grillin (oA-^er port Simpson) is seen in line with the north end of Burnt-clill island N, by E, .\ E. ; this mark leads westward of all dangers off the entrance to Big bay. * St^e chart, No. 1,1»23«. If It 45S CHATHAM SOUND. [Chap. XII. I I BIG BAY (Lak hou), the entninco to which between Tree })liiM' iind South iHlivud ia 2\ miles wlcU', takes an easterly direction lor '.\\ miles. At its head, which is skirted by a sand flat, which dries about half a mile from (lu^ shore at low water, several streams flow into the bay ; this part being known as Salmon river bight.* There is c(mfined anchorage, southward of Swallow island, at tin- head of Big bay in 4 fathoms, but the space is nowhere moi-e than 3 cables across. The anchorag(^ mark is the ship-building shed just shewing along the bank of the river. The little rock, one foot high, on the south edge of Swallow island ledge, is a good guide when entering at high water. Georgetown is a tiiriving little settlement on the banks of the river eastward of Swallow island. Two steam-vessels, of IHO and GO tons, have already been built. Mail steamers call, and anchor in the 4-fathoms bight. South island, situated at the north-west entrance of Big bay, is small and wooded, with a sharp summit, 150 feet high, and connected with the mainland bj foul ground, dry at low water, and one mile in width. A ledge of sunken rocks, with depths of G and 12 feet, extends 5 cables S. | "W. from the south side of South island. Hay- cock island lies 3 cables East from the summit of South island. A sandbank, about one cable in extent, with 15 fathoms water, lies ;{ cables S. ^ E. from Haycock island. White Cliff island lies 9 cables E. ^ S. from Haycock island : it is small, and terminates in high, white, conspicuous cliffs. Shattock point, 3 cables E.N.E from White Cliff island, is the north-west entrance point of Salmon river bight. Swallow island lies one mile E. ^ S. from White Cliff island and one cable from the north shore. Curlew rock is small, about 2 feet above high water, and lies 5 cables South from Swallow island. -.1 Ripple bank, at the entrance to Big bay, is about 2 cables in extent in an East and West direction ; the shoalest spot near the eastern end, having 12 feet water over it, sandy bottom, lies l^'^j miles S. by W. I W. from the summit of South island. This bank usually indicates itself by tide ripplings. * St'e plan : — Big bay, on Admiralty chart, No. 2,426 ; scale, m := 3 inches. Ohtip. XII.] BK! HAY, DIRECTIONS. -150 low i Escape reefs iift' a (luuj^'erous cluritt'r iit lh<> I'litnuico to Hi^' l)iiy, E.S.E. of liipplc bank'. The outer or WMrttcni ivcl" has 1 feet ovor it, and lies 1 ,'„ miles S. i W. from the Hurjiiuit of South islaml. Tlie eastern reef has 5 feet over it, and lies half a mile K.N.H. from tlti- western one. There are depths of 1(5 and 17 fathoms between these reel's. During the season of kelp ,L,'rowth, that weed is found inirreat quantities upon Escape reefs, and near the head of Wv^ l»ay. Anchorage will be found in Hig bay, in Hand \2 fathoms, mud, with Haycock island in line witli the north extreuie of Soutli island bearing N.W. by W. | W. ; and White (Miff island in line with mount Grlirm bearing N. by. W. \ W. Directions. — Approaching I'.ig l)ay from the southward nn)unt Grillin should be kept in line with the north extreme of Hurnt-clitl island N. l)y E. h E. until Sharp peak on the ridge south-east of mount Grillin is in line with the south end of Swallow island bear- ing E. by N. ; the latter mark will lead directly into IMg bay ; anchor with Sharp peak open south of Swallow island, in the position and depth above given. Burnt-cliff island, situated northwai'tl of South island, is about half a mile lonjj N.W. ^ N., an-.l S.E. h S., and wooded, its highest point near its north end being 200 feet high, 'i'he north extreme of this island terminates in high red-brown dill's ; the north-east extreme is cultivated, and from that point a long bank of shingle, awash at high water, extends )$ cal)les X.E. The whole space inshore of South and Burnt-clill.' islands uncovers at low water. \ ledge, which uncovers at low water, extends 15 cables N.W. from the north-west extreme of Burnt-cliff island. The channel between Burnt-cliff and One Tree islands is available only for boats. One Tree island, 4 cables N.W. of Burnt-cliff island, is of small extent, with a sharp wooded summit 150 feet high. A low grassy point extends 100 yards in a northerly direction from the north extreme of One Tree island, at the extremity of which a high, con- spicuous, solitary tree was standing in 1(S(j8. One Tree island forms the southern point of entrance to Cunningham passage, and the western shelter of Pearl harbour. A ledge, which uncovers at low water, surrounds One Tree island ; its greatest distance from the shore being 2^ cables in a N.N.W. ^ W. direction from the single tree. See chart, No. 2,426. 460 THATIIAM SOUXI). [fMiiq). xn. Flat-top islands, a ^rronp lyin^' m»i-lli\viinl (>r Oiii' 'V\vi' isliiml, consists of thtcc wooded islands, lyiii^' N.N.K. and S.S.W. of cacdi other. The niiddk' aud lonj^est island of tlie <xroui) is connectiMl by a narrow ^'rassy neek witli the northern island, and the latter has a Hat summit, covered in July with lon^' i>iass; also a sinj,'le stuntotl tree jifrowin;,' upon it (LSlIS). Tlie southernmost and smallest Fhit- lofi island lies ',\l eabl(;s X. hy E. from tlie tree on One 'I'l'ee island. Ledges, which uncover at low water, and foul ground, surround tho Flat-toj) f,'roui) 1[, cables distant. FINLAYSON ISLAND, the hu^est in this locality, is 2:- miles long N.W. \ N. and S.E. \ S., and one mile broad, 200 feet high, and wooded. The south extreme of the island terminates in clitt's ; l)ut the north extreme (Gordon point) is long and comjuiratively low, with ledges which uncover extentling 2 cables northward ; and on the north-west sitle of the island, about half a mile from the north- west extreme, is a large stream. Red Cliff point, oi^ the eastern side of Cunningham passage, half a mile N.E. fr';jn Fortune point, is rendered conspicuous by the high x'ed' brown cliil's over it, and the small islet close to. Immedi- ately south-east of the point there is a bay, with a sandy beach, and stream at its head. ■'i i' PEARL HARBOUR, situated eastward of One Tree island, is nearly circular in shape, and half a mile across : on its eastern side is a bay, which dries nearly throughout at low watei'. On its south- east side, the high bank of shingle which extends from the north- east point of J3urnt-cliff island effectually shelters the harbour from south-easterly winds.* Anchorage. — Gootl anchorage will be founil in 1) to 10 fathoms, mud bottom, near the middle of Pearl luu-bour, with Fortune pt)int seen just open northward of the southernmost island of Flat-top group, bearing N.W. | N,, and the tree on One 'J'ree island, W.S.W., distant 3 cables. Otter anch.orag'e, situated at the south end of Cunningham passage near the eastern shore, northward of Flat-top islands, is useful if communicating with the wood-cutting establishment abreast it. tSw chart. No. 1,923^. * <Sfe<- Admiralty plan : — Pearl harbour, on sheet No. 2,426. Ohap. XH.] PEARL HARBOUR, DIRECTIONH. 461 Aiu:h()ra;,'o iu lo to 17 t'ath)ai!, s.iii'l, will l)i,' r.)uu<l with the contiv' ol'tlt! wuoloiittiuij: rsl,il)lirtlimoiit iu lino with Leiiliu!; peak, bi'iiriiig K. by X. [ N., iiiid ihc Udrihermuo.st Fhit-top island (^Green luouud) S. I)y I']., (list;inl 1 [, c;il)l(S. The \voo(l-cuttin<? o.stiii)lishim)iil, IJ-oiii wliich the iiriiieii»al sup- plii's for i^ort Simpson arc obtained, is aitnated ncai- the middle of a sandy l)ay, the noi'tiiei-n point of tiie bay tenninatinv' in rliffs. Thn bay (IricH nearly thfOML,'liMiit at low water. From Otter anehor.ejre thei-e is a passa,t,'o »'astwartl of Flat-tup islands into Pearl iiarbour, but this is not recommended to a Btranjjrer. Sparrowhawk rock, a dangerous, snnkt-n, pinnacle rock, on which is 5 feet water, lies nearly half a mile N.W. | X. from the tree on One Tree island, and nearly in mid-channel, between One Tree and Finlays')n islam'. ; it is stin^p-to, there being depths of It) and 12 fathoms at ;')() feet from it. Sparrowhawk rock is marked by a conical buoy, cobnired black and reil in horizontal sti-ipes, Leading peak, a well deiined peak of ti'iangular shape (^the first to th-' south-east on the ridge from mount Grillln), in line with the nonh extreme of Green mound, the northernuiost islet of the Flat-iop group, bearing K. by X. h N., or that peak seen just open south- ward of the wood-cutting establishment abreast Otter anchorairo, K. by X. ] N., will lead northward of Sparrowhawk rock. Dodd rook lies a little over 2 cabli's South from Fortune jujint (Finlaysou island) ; ledges which tlry, connect it with that point. Dodd rock only covers at the highest e(|uinoctial tides, and is lh»Te- fore an useful mark wlii-n entering Cunningham passage, as there is deep water a short distance southward of the rock. Leading peak seen just open southward of ilie wood-cutting es'uib- lishment abreast Otter anchorage, bearing K. by X. [ X., will l»-ail sotithward of Dodil rock. Directions. — Approaching Cunningham passage, K(-il CliJV jKiint should be steered for in line with Fortune point, bearing X.E., until Leading peak is seen in line with the north Flat top island (Green mound), boating E. by X. l X., when the latter mark should be steered for. When the southern side of Burnt-clifl: island is seen Si'fi chart, Xo. 2,42fi. IC? CHATHAM HOTTND. [rimp. XTT, open northward of the troo on One Tree inh't, bwivnip S.S.K, [, K., u vt'HHol will 1)0 eastward of Sparrowluiwk rock ; and if bound to port Simpaon, may haul to tlit- nortlnvard into Cunnin^,']iani pawsafje. If bound into Pt-arl harbour, a mid-channt-l course from the abovo- monti(mod position should be shaped between One Tree islet and the soutiiernmost Flat top island. P.elletti and Shattoek points, two con- spicuous wooded points on the eastern shore, should bo ke])t in line, bearing S.M. by K., when oiiterini,' Pearl liarlxtur. CUNNINGHAM PASSAGE, eastward of Finlayson island, between it and the Tsimpsean pi-niiisula, lies in a N. by W. [, W., and S. by E. .', K. direction. The southern portioii (»f Ihis channel is barely 15.', cables wide ; but northward of Sarah point (the north-east t^xtreine of Fiidayson island) (he passaije widens, attaining,', between One Tree islet and Oordon point, a width of 1:{ miles. The depths in mid-channel are from 10 lo 'M\ fatlnuns, Villag'O island, at the south-west I'ntrance of i)ort Simpson, at about one c ible from the shore, with which it is counticted at half tide, is about a quarter of a mile lonj,' W.N.W. and M.S. 10. ; its south bide foi'u a bay ; and followins,' the trend of that bay and round the southern extreme of the island, the houses of one of le Tsimpsean Indian villages will be seen. Village island near ^ north-west extreme is about 50 feet high, having on it a high pole. One Tree islet is about 100 yards long east and west, covered with stunted trees, lying close to the north-west extreme of Village island. Birnie island, at the north-west entrance of port Simp>on, is three-quarters of a mile long North and South, and a little over 2 cables broad, its greatest elevation 1530 fe(*t being near the middle of the island. Tlie shores of this island are comparatively bold and unbroken. Knox point, the south extreme of Birnie island, lies 1^ miles North from Finlayson island. Ledges which uncover at low Avater extend one cable from Knox ])oint. PORT SIMPSON, the most spacious harbour on this part of the coast, is nearly ![> miles wide at its entrance between One Tree islet and Birnie island ; thence it takes an easterly direction for about i5[i miles, contracting gradually as the head is approached, and termi- nating in a narrow bight, named Stumaun bay, which dries across at low water. At its head are several streams, where salmon See chart, No. 2,426. Chap. XT I.] PORT rtlMPSOX. 403 ' ftro cinij^ht. The nortluMMi slun-c of (li.- port is frinjj.- 1 with :i rocky hoiich, compact iind hiicktMl hy rapidly rising' hiyh land. Tht< southoru rtlioro in not ho rc^jular, nor so sifi-p-io, tin- rork.s which dry at low water, near the eustci-n i)art of the hay, fxtendini* from hi^'h-watcr mark in Hoiuc placcrt for the diatancc of nearly ono-third of a mile. Coal has heon found hi're.* Port Simpson omhraces over 1 sipiare mih-s of water, from 4 to 20 fathoms deep with muddy 1) )tt(»in, i^ood holdini; {jrouml and free from rocks and shoals. It is easy of access from tht; sea, having no stron;,' tidal streams, and well shellereil from all winds except the west, which here stddom l)lows. The prevailing.' winds are south- west and north-west, from which the harhour is pt-rffctly piotecfed. Fort Simpson was formed hy the Hudson ISay Company in 1S;U as a trading' jmst, on account of the },'ood anchora:,'e found in its vicinity and the facilities afforded to sailin^'-vessels. The tradini,' post or fort stands near the south-west entrance point of the hay, close to the heach. A larije entry f,'ate 'aces the heach with a landini? jetty of stont!S in IVont of it. A i)i('r extends from tin.' fori ahout X.N.W. f, W. to the low-water M'^v of t!ie licach. or into a depth of 4 fathoms. There is a hospital here. Tlie Hudson Bay Company's trading steam-ve.ss-d calls periodically at port Simpson, hringing supplies and returning with the fur.s. Anchorag'e — The usual anchorage is off the fort, in ahout 10 fathoms, mud hottom ; a good berth beintf with Parkin island, seen just open northward of Birnie island, hearing N.W. (westerly), and (Gordon point) the north-west extreme of Finlay.son island, in line with One Tree islet, W.S.W. Hankin reefs are a dangerous cluster which partially uncover, situated south-west of Village island. The south-west extreme of these reefs uncovers G feet at low water, and lies a little over .1 cables 8,W. by S. from the nortli-west extreme of Vdlage i.sland. Sarah point, the north-east extreme of Finlaysou i.sland, bearing S. by E. Tf E., leads westward ; and the mouth of the lagoon on the north shore of port Simpson, seen optMi of One Tree islet, bearing N.l-]., leads northward of Hankin reefs. • Sit Admiralty plan : — Port Simpson, on sheet No. 2,121 : <c:i\e. m =: :{ inches. U'4 CHATHAM SOUND. [Ohap. XIT. Harbour reefs, awash at high water, form a natural breakwater to port Himi)Son, protecting the anchorage from N.W. winds. The sunken plateau is about one Hc^uare mile in extent, within the depth of .') fiTthoras. The south-east portion of tliese reefs only covers at the highest tides, and lies 2i cables W.N.W. from One Tree islet. Tlie month of the lagoon on the north shore of i)ort Simpson, bearing X. 47 ' K., leads south-eastward : Lizzie hill seen well open southward of IJiruie island, bearing N.E., leads north-westward ; and Parkin island seen open of the north extreme of Birnie island, bearing N.W. (westerly) leads novrh-eastward of Harbour reefs. Dodd passagre lies between One Tree islet and Harbour reefs, and is 2 cables wide, with depths of (! to S fathoms in it. This is available for steam-vessels, but local knowledge is necessary. Anchoragre patch, with is feet watei', sandy })Ottom, lies in the western portion of tiie anchorage ground oil' fort Simjjson. with the fort gate beai-ing S.E. I E., and the pole on the north-west extreme of Village island, S.W., distant ]\ cables. Choked passag'e, situated northwai-d of l)irnie island, has sev. ral ledges which uncover, and sunken dangers with d<»ep water between them. This passage should not be attemi)ted except in boats, and when nsing it keep near the north shore. Inskip passagre, the northern and jjrincipal entrance into port Himpson, is a little over 5 cables wide, and should invariably be used by a stranger. The depths in this channel are from 11 to 20 fathoms. Directions. — Approaching ijort Simpson from the southward by Cunningham passage, the cliffs on the north-west extreme of Burnt- clill island kept in line with the southernmost Flat-top island, bearing S. by E. I E. (astern) will lead through until abreast Sarah point. Thence the mark for leading westward of Hankin reefs should be brought (m astern (^src p. 4l)3), and when the lagoon mouth on noi'th shore of port Simpson bears N.E. j N., a course should be steered to pass north-westward of One T)'ee islet, and anchor in th':' position before mentioned. If not A^ishing u, enter by Dodd pas8ag«% when abreast Sarah point bring that point in line with the south point of a bay on the eastern shore of Cunningham \)assage, bearing S.E. ] E. (astern), which mark See chart, No. 2,420. rhap. XTI.] PORT STMPSOX. 4 A ard by Burnt - isliiiul, Sarali 11 reefs mouth uld be in th'^ will lead Houthward of the IIarbf»iir reefH, midway between that danger and Finlayson island. Entering port Simpson by Inskip passage, Lizzie hill (on the north Lhore) well open southward of Blrnie island bearing N.E., will lead 2 cables S.E. of that island and 3 cables N.W, of the Harbour reefs. When Parkin island is seen just open northward of Rirnie. island, l)earing N.W. (westerly), that mark kei)t im astern will lead u]) to the anchorage, in the depth and jtosition before mentioned. Indian Villagres.— Befon- the Hudson bay post was built, the Tillages of the Tsimpsean Indians were at Metlah Catlah, but tiie tribe being great traders, as well as hunters, travelling long distances inland, they naturally migrated nearer the trading post. They have therefore settled along the beach on either side of the fort, anil ujjon an island close opposite. Village ishuul was formerly oidy connected with the main at half tide, but the Indians have c(m- structed a trestle bridge, about OOO feet long and from U) to 20 feet high, connecting the island and the main (Hay point). Supplies. — Salmon, berries, shell fish, houlican oil, and dried seaweed form the principal diet of these Indians. Animal food (venison) is eaten when it can be obtained, but the winter food con- sists of dried salmon and houlican oil. The salmon are caught in immense ([uantities during the autumn and smoked over wood fires in huts. The houlican abounds in Nass river in the spring, the banks at low water being covered with dead fish. From this fish, which is larger and rounder than a s})rat, a nutritions oil is extracted, and is the principal commodity of this jn'ople ; the various tribes whose rivers the houlican do not visit, buying the oil in exchange for furs. Seaweed is taken in great <iuantities on the off-lying rocks during the low autumnal tides ; it is dried and compressed into cakes and used as winter food. A great luxury with them is rice a lid molasses. Wood, water, potatoes, and crabs, can be obtained in port Simpson. Repairs. — The great rise and fall of tide at port Simi)son ])ermits a vessel to be beached. A good site will be found for this purpose just westward of the fort. The bottom consists of hard ssmd, Avith a covering of weeds. S,T chart. No. 2.42H. SO 11948 2 a ! i uu\ CHATHAM SOUND. I: [Chap. XTI. Tides and tidal streams.— it is hi^'h wator, full and chanKe, at port Hinipsou at Ih. 30ni. ; springs rise 17 t(j 22 feet, neapa 14 to 17 feet. Chatham sound has very little tidal stream, not more than one knot. A strong stream sets out of Nass and Work channels in (Jliatham sound and then Hows out through Dixon entrance between Dundas islands and Alaska, at the rate of about 2.^ knots an hour. Deviation. — For swinging to ascertain the deviation of the compass in ])ort Simpson, Tal)lt' hill on Dundas island 12 miles distant is conspicuous. The bearing of tlic nob at the north end of Table hill, frotn the anchorage in ])ort Simpson, is N. liV' 00' W. (true). Parkin islands are two lying dose together, about one cabh' in extt'Ut X.W. and S.K. ; though small, I hey are "i.')!) feet high, wooded and conspicuous. The south extreme of Parkin islands lies al»oul 1}, miles X.W. j N, from the n<trth extreme <»f Birnie island, and ('» cables from the nearest shoi-e (Black point). Maskelyne point, the soutli-west entrance i)oint of Portland inlet, and the north-west enti-ance point of Work channel, lies li miles S.E. ), S. from Wales point. Maskelyne point is situated in latitude 54^ 38' WO" N., longitude i:iO°27'0" W. Work channel, the entrance to which lies close northward of Maskelyne j)oint, takes a south-easterly directi(»n for about .'50 miles : about <S miles from the head it divides into two arms, one branching northward for ;> nules, and tlte other arm south-east and east for S '-.liles, and approacliing within 2 or ',\ mih^s of Skeena river. Its siiores are bold and c(»n)pact, and surrounded by high, preci])itous mountains. Trail bay is situated on the western shore miles from tlie entrance of the channel, and Trail Hay cove on the west side of the bay, is small, and has good anchorage in i* fathoms. Two miles eastwai-d of Crace point, a rock just visible at low water lies in the centre of the channel. It is described as having a very small top with a depth of 1150 fathoms close to it. »'i' chart, No. l,92.Srt <'hap. XTi.] PORT SIMPSf)N.— E lYE PASSA(;E. k;7 There is indifferent anehora^'e at the head of the main inlet in o;"> fatlionis, two cables from low water mark. The tidal streams at the entrance of Work channel run about i\ knots. ichin.n' ist for •. lis )itoiis ,t low WEST SHORE OF CHATHAM SOUND. PRESCOTT and STEPHENS islands lie in the south- western part of Chatham sound, and are separated by a narrow passage available only for boats. These islands together are about 1 2 miles long W. by N. and E. by S. Prescott island has an elevation of 820 feet.* Stephens (Skiakl) island attains an elevation of 1,340 feet near its fast end ; its southern shores are comi)aratively low, with some white cliffs near the centre ; about one mile westwai-d of these cliffs there is reported to be a well sheltered anchorage in !• fathoms named Thistle harbour. Tree-nob groups are a mass of islands, islets, and I'ocks awash at low water, which extend (i miles in a north westerly direction from the N.W. side of Stephens island. The larger islets are wooded, and the smaller bare. Vancouver, who nearly met with disaster among them, describes them as "an intricate inhospitable labyrinth." EDYE PASSAGE on the south side of Prescott and Stephens islands, is the channel usually taken when communicating between Chatham sound and Hecate strait, as, by using it, vessels avoid the strong and irregular tides met with in R'own passage. It is com- paratively free from danger, and at itr northern end possesses an excellent anchorage (Refuge bay), in which a vessel may await a favourable opportunity for proceeding.* Cape Il)bet8on, the south-west point of entrance of Edye passage, is situated in latitude 54° 2' IJO" N., longitude 1:50" 42' 4')" W. Porcher island. — Approaching Edye passage from the south- ward, Oval hill, filJO feet high, near the western extreme of Porchei- island is conspicuous, and at 2 miles northward of that hill lies Flat hill, 170 feet high. At ',) miles southward of the latter, the western shore of Porcher island terminates in high white cliff's. The south-western side of Porcher peninsula has several rocks av/ash, and sunken rocks extending one mile off' it in a westerly direction. * See Admiralty plan . — Brown and Edye pnssajri'n Nos. 2,453 ; r*oale, w =r.- 1 inoli. 80,11948 2G2 i ' . i i 4t;8 CHATHAM SOUND [Chap. XII. Bass rock, 30 feet higJi, Hituuted cIo.se to the shore of Porcher island under Oval hill, is small, and bare. A rocky ledge, with depths of 4 to (S fathoms upon it, extends westward nearly 4 miles from the south-west side of Porcher penin- sula, in the vicinity of the Bass rock. The conspicuous white cliffs on the south side of Stephens island should not be brought to bear westward of North when approaching the western shore of Porcher island. Goschen island, on the n(»rthern piirt of which is situated Rubble mountain, 1,4(>(» feet high, is se])arated from Porcher penin- sula by Freeman pass, narrow and intricate, having many rocks, showing only at low water. Seal rocks, a cluster of bare rocks «»f small extent, 10 feet above high water, the centre of which lies ') miles N.W. by W. •} W. from the siimmit of Oval hill, and 4 miles H.S.W. { W. from cape Tbbets(m (south-west entrance point of E<lye passage), have depths of 12 to iJl fathoms at 2 cables from them. Caution. — No ves.sel should ])ass between Seal and Warrior rocks ; the passage is dangerous. Warrior rocks, two bare rocks iM) feet above high water, lie E. by S., and W. by N., distant (S cables from each other. The eastern rock lies :V{ miles N.W. .', W. from the centre of tlie Seal rock cluster. Wallace rock, marked by kelp and with a depth of 8 feet on it at low water 8})rings, lies with Seal rocks bearing K. l)y S., distant l], miles ; and eastern Warrioi- rock N.N.W. ] W. Deep patch, situated at the western entrance of Edye ))assage, is stated to have 10 fathoms u])on it ; there is, however, probably less water (m this patch, as kelj) was observed growing upon it in August. The patch is of small extent, and lies one mile N.N.E. from cape Ibbetson. The south extreme (»f Arthur island (View point) seen in line with the south-east extreme of that inland bearing K. by N. i| N., will lead northward of Dee}) patch. Foul ground extends ott" the south-eastern side of Arthur island to the distance of '^ cables. Sff chart, No. 2,453, 1/tl. Chap. XII,] RDYE PASSA(;R.— HHOWN PASSAfiK. 469 Truscott patch, with IB IVet water on it, lies IJ miles K.N.K. from cape lbbetH(»n, and (> c-ablew t'roin the nearest shore of Henry island. Tidal streams. — The flooil stream approaches from the west- ward, and both streams set fairly through Kdye passage with an average rate of 2 knots an hour. REFUGE BAY, situated at the north-west extreme of Poreher island, at the north entrance of Edye passage, is an excellent stopi»ing place during south-easterly winds, or if desirous of proceeding to sea from Chatham sound by the Edye passage, the state of the weather in Hecate strait can be ascertained. The bay is 7 cabli'S wide between its entrance points, and takes^: .i south-easterly direction for about one mile, terminating in a simd-Hat which extends nearly half a mile from its head.* The depths in tiie middle of the bay are from 14 to 2;i fathoms, sand, shoaling gradually towards either shore. Ancboragre will be found in 12 to 14 fathoms, sand and mud, near the middle of the bay, about 2 cables from the north and south shores, with the north entrance point (Table point) bearing N.N.W., and Pearce point bearing W. by S. .', S. Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in Kefuge bay at Ih. 30m. ; springs rise 17 to 22, neaps 14 to 17 feet. BROWN PASSAGE, between Tree nob islands and South Dundas islands, is about .') miles long E. by N. and W. by S., and T) miles wide. Nearly in mid-channel, however, lies a cluster of rocks, awash at high water, which divides Brown passage into two channels. Butterworth rocks are a dangerous cluster of rocks, the southernmost of which is 10 feet above high water, with several patches which uncover at low water extending three-quarters of a mile N.W. from it. This rock lies IVJ, miles S.S.W. ] W. from Hare island, the south-western island of the Tree nob group ; with that island in line with some wooded islands forming the north west cluster of Tree nob grouj) (Osborne islands). There is deep water between Butterworth rocks and Tree nob islands. * JSi'e Admiralty plan : — Ilet'uye bay. ou iiheet No. tt,4o3 ; scale, m = 4 inches m CHATHAM SOUMJ. [(niajt XII. ? s I ; StenhOUSe shoal, a dangerous patch with 7 feet leant water upon it, and reported to be 50 yards in extent, lies at the western entrance of Brown passage, G], miles S.W. by W. from Cape islet, the south extreme of South Dundas island. North breaker, over which the sea usually breaks, is the outer known danger extending north-west from the Tree nob group, and lies one mile W.N.W from the outer Osborne island. Hanmer rock (Lachschatada), a dangerous rock, nearly in mid- channel, 2\ miles N. by E. from the outer Osborne island, and 2h miles S. ;| W. from Cape islet, is awash at high water, with depths of 12 and '.V2 fathoms close to ; them air sevei-al ])atches whicii uncover, extending from Hanmer rock W.N.W. three-quarters of a mile. Simpson rock, lies on the north sidt^ of Hrown passage, three- quarters of .1 mile S. l)y W. from Cape islet ; this rock is ti feet above high watej", with rocks awash extending half a mile westward, and a depth of 17 fathoms at 4 cables southward of it : there is a patch which uncovers I) feet at low water, at 3 cables S.E. of Simpson rock. Beaver rock, with 12 feet water on it, lies 1 [ miles S.8.E. from the S.E. extreme of South Dundas island (Deans point) ; several patches of rock lie between Beaver rock and the shore of South Dundas island. Directions. — Brown passage is not recommended to a stranger, but should circumstances compel him to make use of it, the eastern peak of the four-peak range, on South Dundas islands, should Jje steered for, bearing N.K. by N., until the eastern and highest Lucy island bears K.N.K., which will lead through Brown passage south of Hanmer rock, or bearing K. '■[ N. will lead through, northward of this rock. Tidal streams. — la Brown passage the tidal streams set fairly through at an average rate of 2 knots an hour. The flood stream sets to the eastward, and off the western entrance to this passage the streams are strong and complicated. QLAWDZEET ANCHORAGE lies f)n the north-west side of Stephens island, and it was into this bay Vancouver was conducted ■•<"'■ chart., No. 2,4.)8. Chap. XII.] HROWN TASSACK.— DIXOAS ISLANDS 471 by tlie officer of the BnUi'nvnrth from his daiifjerourt position amidst the Tree nob group. Qhiwdzet't is exposed to the N.W., is tliree quarters of a mile wide at its entrance, and one mih^ deep in a southerly direction.'* Enti-ance reef, awash at hif,'h water, lies l cables N.W. from the eastern entrance j)oint of Qlawdzeet bay. Directions. — Tlu^ entrance to Qlawd/eet bay will be made if tiie north extreme of Tugwell island is kept in line (astern) with the eastern island of the Lucy gi'oup, bearing N.N.E. ], E. Keep in mid-channel when entering, and anchor at 15 cables within the bay and H cables off the south shore, in 12 to 14 fathoms, mud bottom, with the eastern entrance point of the bay bearing N.E. .', N., distant 4 cables, and the western entrance point bearing W. by N. J N., distant (5 cables. Tides. — It is high water, full and change, at Qlawd/eet anchorage at Ih. ;Wm, ; si)ring8 rise 17 to 22, neaps \A to 17 feet. Bay islands, on the south side of South Dandas island, are reported to afford anclud'age off their north-west side. The " linlhr- imrt/i,'" however, " on coming out struck upon a rock which seemed to be a small pinnacle by itself as no sountlings were gained near it." The examination of this locality has shown the existence of many sunken rocks, the anchorage under Bay islands shouhl therefore not be attempted. DUNDAS ISLANDS, on the western side of Chatham sound, were so named by V^ancouver ; they consist of three islands, the northernmost being the largest and highest. A number of smaller islanils (Moft'at islands) lie close to the eastern coast of South and Middle Dundas islands. The western coast of the group have not been thoroughly examined but they are much broken into bays and inlets, with several small off-lying islets.f South Dundas island is about ;5 miles long, N.W. and S.E.,and ;") miles broad, its coast being comparatively low, wooded, and broken into bays on the south and western sides. Near the middle of tlie island a mountain range rises 1,400 feet, with four conspicuous peaks which lie N.E. and S.W. •■Vr Admiralty plan : — Qlawdzeet anchorage, on sheet No. 2.453 : scale, »»=: 4 U inches. t Str chart. No. \,',>-2Hti. I 1 •! 472 CHATHAM SOUND. [Chap. XII. Middle Dundas island lies about 2 miles N.W. (»f South Dumlas island, the paasaj^e between beins:()l)structe(l by numerous low, wooded islets, rocks, and sunken dangers. The island is nearly ;> miles long N.W. and S.E., with a ufreatest l)readth of 5 miles; it is mostly low and wooded, with numerous creeks and bays on its shores. Near the southern end of the island the land suddenly rises in an oval- shaped hill (Coast mound) 750 feet high, which is an useful landmark. Gonnel islands, a group of small wooded islaiids, lie otf the western side of Middle Dundas island. The outer or soutli-western island of the group lies off the entrance to tlie passage between South and Middle Dundas islands, about 2 miles from the western coast of the latter, and 7 miles N.W. from Osborne islands. North Dundas island is about 12 miles long. North and South, and about 7 miles broad near its north end. This island, the highest and largest of the group, culminates in a mountain with a thumb-shaped summit, 2,r)()() feet high, about 4 miles from the south end of the island. Near the north extreme of North Dundas island there is a hill 7(M) fe^'t high, with a flat top, and a nob near its north end (Table hill), a most conspicuous and useful nuirk. The eastern coast of North Dundas island is but little broken ; bold, with a range of hills about IJOOfeet high, rising immediately above it. On the northern side, nearly midway between Whitley point and White islands there is a deep bay, though useless as an anchorage, at the entrance to which lies a group of small wooded islets (Gnarled islands). Otf the north-west extreme of the island, close to, are two conspicuous rocks (White rocks). The western coast of North Dundas island has not been examined in detail. Several islands were, however, seen lying oil" that shore to the distance of "2 miles. Captain Ih'undige put into a small harbour on the north end of North Dundas island. He says, " 1 found a small river there which extended 5 miles or more into the island." ZAYAS ISLAND is the largest of the islands which lie off the western coast of North Dundas island. The extent of this island has not been ascertained, but it appeared to be about 4 miles long, in a north and south direction, and about 2 miles broad, wooded, and about 250 feet high. A ledge of rocks, which uncover at low water See chart, No, \,d2'da. .,w Chap. XII.] DUNDAS ISLANDS.— HAMMOND UOIK. 473 wuH (>]>3t'rve(l to extend nearly one mile from the north-weHt extreme of ZayuH irthind. Frojn the west side of thi' island, ntc-ks are said to extend ',) miles. Z'lyas island appeared Hat and heavily timbered and probably Ji or 4 miles in extent. It has been reported that an nncoverin<,' rock lies in mid-channel between Zayas and North Dundas island, two more rocks ratht-r close in on north side of Zayas, anil three small islets less than one mile from its north-west extreme (probably Whitt- islets of the chart). F^esides these, dangers (presumably sunken) arc shown as lying 3 miles west from north-west point of North Dunilas, and 2 miles north from the north-west extreme of Zayas. Channel islands are a group of wooded islands, about 100 feet high, extending across the channel between Middh' and North Dundas islands. This group renders that channel useless for any but the smallest class of vessel. The passage, however, is frcfjuently used l)y the Ilytlah Indians, iu their large canoes, when proceeding from Queen Charlotte islands to port Simpson. Moffatt islands consist of six principal wooded islands and several lesser ones, the highest being about :2r>0 feet in height. This group, which lies close to the eastern coast of the Dundas islands, extends 6 miles N.W. and S.E. When abreast, these ishmds show out well, being covered with pine trees of a peculiar deep green foliage. Ducie island is a small wooded islet, I5.')0 feet high, lying one mile N.W. from the Moffat group. Two conspicuous white rocks, 150 feet high, lie il cables northward of Ducie island. Whitesand islet is a small sandy islet, about 10 feet above high water, lying G cables N.E. ))y E. from Ducie island. A leilge of rocks, which uncover, extends 4 cables N.W. and H.E. from White- sand islet. Hammond rock, of small extent, with I) feet water over it, lies 1) cables E.N.E. from the south-eastern extreme of the S.E. Motfat island. This rock has 34 fathoms close northward of it. Coghlan rock, with 8 feet water, and G and 7 fathoms close around, lies 2 miles N.W. \ N. from Hammond rock, and 15^ miles N.E. by E. I E. from the summit of Coast mound. There are depths iSee chart, >'o. l,923rt. J ;h|,| ■1i:l ■!l i !: 471 ("HATHAM HOUND. [C'hsil». XII. of 4;i aiul 4(i fulhomH, mud bottom, at (mr milt' northward of thirt rock. Rrodie rock lies IVj milcH X.W. from Ck)j,'hlan rock. Thindanj^eroiiH pinnacle rock haw oidy ;» feet water over it at low water, witli deptliH of 2(5 and 'M\ fatlioniH at a distance of KK) feet. The Rachel group of islands, kei)t open nortiiward of the Lucy yrou]), l)earing H.E. ^ S. will lead northward of the above-mentioned dangei's ; l)ut during a fog, or in thick weather, the western shore of Chatham sound must not be approached under the depth of 4() fathoms. Pointers rocks, are a dangerous cluster of hare rocks, ',) feet al)ove high water, about 2 cables in extent in a north and south ilirection. The soutliernmost and highest rock lies ',) miles W.N.W. from the north extreme of Finlayson island and 2:{ miles W.S.W. from the north extreme of Birnie island. GonniS rocks consist of several small rocks, nearly in the middle of Main passage into Chat li, an sound, abreast port Simpson. The southernmost and highest rock, 15 feet above high water, is bare, and from it rocks extend 2 cables in a northerly direction. The summit of this rock lies .'» miles W.S.W. from the north extrenie of Finlayson island, and ;*)| miles S.S.W. ^ W. from Pointers rocks. Vancouver remarks : — '* These in the daytime and clear weather " are easily avoided, as there are always some of them above the " surface of the water ; but in dark nights, or foggy weather, they '• must render the navigation of the sound very dangerous." Green islet, situated on the western shore of Chatham sound, about L^ miles from North Dundas island, is covered with long grass during the summer. It is small, 40 feet above high water, and has a small bare rock lying close northward, and another close south- ward. The middle anil largest islet lies 'A miles S.W. by W. from Connis rocks. Grey islet is a small bare rock, of a greyish colour, 30 feet above high water, '.* cables North from Creen islet. A sunken rock, with ('» feet water on it, lies one mile W.N.W. from Grey islet, and another rock, with 4 feet water on it, lies 3 cables south from Grey islet, between it and Green islet. MAIN PASSAGE, between Pointers and Connis rocks, is 'dif miles wide, with depths of 02 fathoms, at one mile N.E. of Si-r chiirt, No. 1,923</. Ill ' CMmp. XII.] POINTKBS IIOCKK.— DIXON KNTKANTK. Coiiuirt ntcks. IJoth Coimis uutl PointorH rocks uiay l»e approached to u ilistant't' of half a mile. ORIFLAMME PASSAGE li«'s werfiwanl of Coiinis ruik:«, i)et\vet'U that cliiHter and (Jret'ii ami (irey islets. It is nearly '.\ miles wide, with depths of 2IJ fathoms at 2 cables eastward of Green islet, and 1)5 and 70 fathoms, mud bottom, at 7 cables southward of Connie rocks. The passage between Dundas island anil the (ireen and (trey islets, is nearly l[, miles wide. The tidal streams in this pass;ige are strong, and the channel is not recommenJed to a stranger. Gnarled Islands, a group of wooded islamls, about one mile in extent east and west, lying oil the north-west side of the North Dundas island, is from UiO to 2.5(1 feet in height ; the eastern islet lies 2j miles W. | N. from the N.E. extreme of the Dundas group. The channel between Dundas and Gnarled islands is obstructed by ledges which uncover, anil sunken rocks. White islands are two bare rocks, about IKl feet high, lying half a mile from the north-west extreme of North Dundas island. DIXON ENTRANCE is the channel between Prince of Wales and Queen Charlotte islands, passing northward of Dundas islands. Several sunken rocks, of doul^tful position, are reported to lie in the western part of this passage, on or near a line joining the north end of the Dundas group and the south end of the Prince of Wales group.* East Devil rock is situated about 4 miles north-westwanl of Zayas island, in latitude 54° ■iO}' N., longitude 13P 4' 30' W. Ea«t Devil rock is marked by a breaker, and is awash at low water. West Devil rock dries 5 feet, and is in latitude W 3l»' 3o N., longitude 131° 3(5' 15 W. North rock lies 5 cal^les N.N.E. i K. from West Devil rock, with deep water around. Captain Carroll, commanding the steamer Idaho, 1883, reports that on April 13th of that year he sighted a breaker about 7 miles S.E. 4 E. from cape Chacon, and that the Nuiiex reef lies (! miles 8. by E. j E. from the same cape. McCuUough rock on which the sea breaks is said to have been discovered by Captain McCullough. From it the north-west end of Zayas island bears N.E. 4 E., and the southern end East, whilst the * See Admiralty charts :— (jueen Charlotte islands, No. 2.430 ; Port Simpson to Port MoAithur. No. 2.458 : scale, /« = o-24 of an inch. 47fi CHATHAM SOUN'l). [('hap. XII. IM 11 w«'8tHni shore of ZuyuH inhmd is diHtimt ahoiit ',\ mih'n in a S.K. J, K. <lirtH'tioii. A rock on whicli the sea hrciaks hravily lu'S about S niiluH N.W. by W. froni the M«»rth-\v«'rit ]toiiit of Noi'th iriland, (»r in latitude .'»l" 22' N., lonj,'itii(ly V^'^' 'i' W., this position irt courtidored doubtful. Oape Fox, so mimed by Vancouver, lies about 7 miles N.N.W. from the Gnarled island K''f>'iPi ami terminates in remarkable hijyh, white elifl's, with a c(mspicuous saddle-shaped mountain (Harry Sa<ldle), 2,(>(;ti feet hif,'h, immediately over it. Lord islands, a group of about one mile in e.xtent, lying '21 miles S.E. fn»m cape Fox, is Avooded and about 2r)(-) feet high ; the soutli- west island is distant .');} miles from the outer or north-western island of the (ruarled island grou]). Tiord rock, which uncovers .'5 feet at low water, lies S cables S.W. by S. from the south-west island of the l^ord group. Fleece rock lies three-(puirters of a mile south-eastward, anil Thistle rock one mile N.W. by N. of the South-western Lord island. Nakat inlet, has its entrance between cape Fox and Tongass island, and extends about 11 miles in a N.N.W. direction. (Vdig rock, with 9 feet over it, lies in mid-channel at the entrance 7 cables W. by S. ^ S. from the west extreme of Tongass island. In Nakat inlet, in the further bight inside the group of islands, is a well sheltered harbour with anchorage in less than 1;') fathoms. TONGASS ISLAND is about .'J miles eastward of ca])e Fox, and about IC) miles north-west of port Simpson, the settlement is dreary, and the almost constant rain and soft soil produces mud of a most tenacious nature.* Anchoragre. — The ajjpi-oaches to Tongass settlement are intricate and requii-e local knowledge ; the anchorage abreast the fort is bad, with deep water and lim.itet'. accommodation even for' a vessel of moderate length. Directions. — The piinjipal approach to Tongass is from the westward and is about half a mile wide. There are depths of 4 to 8 fathoms in this passage. The approach from the south-east is about 3 miles long, and passing between numerous islets, is in places barely one cable wide. The depths iu this passage are said to be from 5 to 16 fathoms. See chart, No. 2,458. * Hee plan of Port Tongass ; scale, /»= 1*5 inches on chart No. 3,431. rhui». X" T CAPK FOX.— WALKS ISLAXF). 477 Tlekhonsity harbour (or chimnt'n oityi, \n oiw <>f iIh> south- fa^trrn approuehtrt U> Touhhh.^ from ('li;ith:im Komul, This pasrtsi);^ is intricate and conatrictt'd. Boston islandSk lyiuK ofT Wales iHlaml. at t\\o fioutli-oastcrn approach to I'oiiwaHs, arc about one inilf in txtt-nt. Tlic hir^rcr islands are wooded, al'oiit 150 feet hi^dj ; the smaller ones are bare, .')(> feet high. Tile western island is J'><> feet hi>:h, round, wooded, and C(mspicuons. A ledj,'e, which uncovers at low water, lies one mile E. by S. from the easternmost of the Hoston islands, and one mile from the nearest shore of Wales island. WALES ISLAND, sitnated on th<' north-west side of the entrance to Portland inlet, is about 7 miles lony in an east and west tlirection, its north-eastern side beinjfabont 1 miles lonjr. The north- eastern shon; is bold, with some conspicuous elift's of red-brown colour, nearly midway between the north and south extremes of the island. A small islet lies close to the shore at the north extreme. On the south side, about one mile westwanl of Wales jioint, the s.'uth-east extreme of Wales island, a deej) bay faces south-eastward, and within it are some patches wliich uncover, and rocks awash. A wooded islet, about half a mile long, in a N.W. and S.E. direction, lies off the entrance to this bay, H miles S.W. .\ W. from Wales jioint. A smaller islet lies one mile south-we.stwani of the larger one. Entry peak, about half a mile N.W. of Wales point, is 1,4(H> feet high, of triangular shajie, with a sharp conspicuous summit. A mountain, with a flat summit, l,l(V.l feet high, is situated near the iniildle of Wales island. Cod bank, with depths of IW antl 47 fathoms, mud and .^hells, lies between Pointers rocks and Parkin island, extending from the latter within the r)()-fathom line, to the distance of l.j miles. There is a depth of I0t> fathoms, mud bottom, at .') cables south, and 99 fathoms, rock, at 5 cables north of Cod bank. Codtish of large size are caught upon this bank. Tidal streams. —'I'h(> tides in Dixon entrance and P>rown passage, especially in the western parts of those channels, an- variable and complicated. The flood stream apiJroaching from the southward up Hecate strait is met by the stream passing westward and northward -SV*- chart, No. 2,4.5S, .47S CHATHAM S-OrXD. [Chap. XTT. 11 I "III i of Queen Charbttte islands at about 15 miles eastward of Rose point, or about midway between the north-east extreme of Queen Charlotte islands and the Tree nob group. Northward of that position this meeting of the streams produce tidal irregularities, and at spring tides or during bad weather the turmoil oaueed by the meeting of the streams is so great as to convey an appearance of broken waters to that portion of them which lies between Queen Charlotte islands, Hrown passage, and Dixon entrance. In Chatham sound the tides set fairly through. Str chart, Xo. 2,430. I i It! [). XTT. point, irlotte ] this ipring ng of raters lands, tides 47H CHAPTER XIII LA.REDO SOUND TO OGDEN CHANNEL. Variation in I89.S. Laredo sound, 2')" 45' ?]. | Ogdeu cliannt'l, 2(r 45' E. LAREDO SOUND. Jn-tween Price and Aristazable islands, is nearly '10 miles long X.X.W. and H.8.E.,and from ;') to 14 miles wide. Kititstu hill, on the north-east«'i'n shore of the sound, is a well d<'tined summit 7G(> feet high. Over the north shore rise three remarkable mountains, North and South Needle peaks, 2/>0a) and '■2,8(H) feet in height, and Cone mountain is 2,400 feet high.** The eastern shore is low, wooded, and fringed by numerous islets, rocks awash, and sunken rocks, 2 miles from the west coast of Price island. At the western entrance of the sound a group of islands and islets extend from Aristazable island for more than .') ' iles in a south-easterly direction. Entrance island, 250 feet high, and three-quarters of a mile long N.W. anil S.E., is the outer of a chain of islands lying off the south extreme of Aristazable island. A bank of comparatively shoal water stretching across the mouth of Laredo s(nind, might serve to distinguish that sound, in thick or foggy weather, froni Milbank sound, there being depths of over 120fath(mis at the entrance of the latter. Nab rock, a dangeiv)U8 sunken rock, ovtir which the sea breaks only at long intervals, lies .{;{ miles S.K. by E. from tlie summit of Entrance island. The ground is foul for one mile S.E. from the rock, and several ledges uncover at low water between Nab rock md Entrance island. • St'i' Admiralty charts : — Cape Caution to port Simpnon, noutheni portion, No. 1,9236 ; scale, in=i)"2h of an inch : also northern portion, \o. 1,923^/ ; icalc. m =: 0-2r» of an inch. 9^ nil! \ 'i < 480 LAREDO .SOUND TO OODEN CIIAWEL. [Ohap. XITI. Don point, situated on the western shore of Laredo sound, 4 miles N. by E.. from the summit of Entrance island, is a peninsuha 150 feet liifjh, and when first seen, appears as an island. Close northward of Don point is a small cove, which affords shelter to boats. Double island, on the eastern shore, is wooded, about 100 feet high, and divided near the centre by a cleft which causes it to appear as two islands, when seen from the southward and northward. Low point, wooded and flat, lies 2^ miles N.N.W. from the summit of Double island. Low rock, which uncovers at low water, lies 4 cables N.N.W. from Loav ])oint. SchOOLer point is the turning' ])oint into Laredo channel, 7 miles N. by W. f n m Don point. Schooner ledge, which uncovers al low water, lies 15 cables northward of Schooner ))oint. South Bay islands, a group of small extent, lie at the head of Laredo sound. The larger islands are wooded, and 2,'/'^ :\t ' i;^h. North Ray islands consist of three principal wooded iti.'f^ "j - i-.all extent, 250 feet high. Steep point, high and bold, forming the north-east entrance point of Laredo channel, lies 2 miles N. l)y E. from Schooner point. Directions.— Small sailing coasting vessels, to avoid the light winds and calms which fre«iuently prevail in the inner channels, make use of Laredo sound and the channels leading northward from it, as the wind seldom fails them there. Pass one mile off Schooner ])oint and proceed through Laredo channel as hereinafter directevl. LAREDO CHANNEL, between Princess Royal and Aristazable islands, is about 20 miles hmg in a general N.W. l)y W. and S.E. by E. directi(m, and from 2 to 5 miles wide. Fury point (m the south shore, 4 miles N.W. by W. }, W. from Schooner point, termiicies in l)lack, smooth rocks, A small bay, with a sandy l)each at its head, and an islet at its entrance, lies close eastward of Fury point. Bluff point lies 7^ miles N.W. by W. h W., from Fury point ; it is high and bold, with a hill 400 feet high rising immediately over it. On the north shore of Laredo cha.inel, abreast Bluff point, is ar islet at the mouth of a creek. Ser chart. No. 1,923/'. Ohap. XIII.] LAREDO CHANNEL, TIDES. 481 tazab'.e by K south tew in head. Beaver ledgre uncovers at low water, and lies half a mile from the south shore, at ly^j, miles westward of Schooner point. There is deep water close northward of this ledge. Islet rock lies close southward of a small islet on the north shore, at 1^ miles westward of Steep point. South Channel islands are five wooded islands, 150 feet high, and about one mile in extent, lying nearly in mid-channel, G miles from Schooner point. North Channel islands are two wooded islands of small extent. The eastern island of the group lies 1^ miles N.W. by W. from the western island of the South Channel group. Ghannel rock is a dangerous sunken rock, lying nearly in mid- channel, 6 cables S.E. by K. from the eastern islet of the South Ghannel group. Seal rocks, which cover at high water, and are of small extent, lie half a mile from the south shore, 2 miles W.N.W. from Bluff point. There is deep water at two cables northward of Seal rocks. Sand«<pit point, 5^ miles N.W. by W. from Bluff point, is white and conspicuou;?; with a ridge of bare hills, 700 to 950 feet high, immediately over it. Sandspit shoal extends half a mile northward from Sandspit point. Devils point, the western entrance point of Laredo channel, lies 4 miles W.N.W. from Sandspit point. Over this point is a bare hiH with a conspicuous boulder or nob on its summit. Spray point, the north-east entrance point of Laredo channel, is bold, high, and lies 5 miles N.E. by E. | E. from Devils point. Directions. — Having rounded Schooner point at a distance of one mile, a N.W. by W. | W. course for 6 miles should lead into Surge narrows, taking care, especially if the ebb stream be running, to avoid Channel rock. Tides and tidal streams.— In the wider portions of Laredo channel both streams attain a velocity of 3 knots an hour at springs. Midway between Devils and Spray points, the flood or noith going stream from Laredo channel is met by the stream passing round the See chart No. 1,»232*. aO 11918 2H 1 i i 1 1 j i I 1 n r-*. 482 LAREDO SOUND TO OGDEN CHANNEL. [Chap. XIIL north-west end of Aristazable island, causing at springs dangerous tidal races in that locality. The ebb stream having divided in mid-channel off Devils point, one portion sets round the north-west end of Aristazable island. The other sets fairly down Laredo channai, and attains a velocity of 6 knots an hour, at springs, in Surge nurrows. From Surge narrows the ebb stream sets directly towards Fury point, and thence sweeps along the southern shore of the channel, passing across Laredo sound to Low point, whence it is deflected and sets fairly to the southward. C£ mpania sound, between Princess Royal and Campania islands, is 5 miles long in a general N.N.E. and S.S.W. direction, and 3 miles wide. On the eastern shore a conspicuous range of hills, with rounded summits, rise 900 feet, and ledges extend from it to a distance of halt rp lie On the western shore, 3 cables from the south-east extrein 'Jampania island, lies Eclipse island, a small wooded islet, 100 sL high, and for one mile northward of Eclipse island ledges uncover to the distance of half a mile. Soutll Surf islands, situated at the south-east entrance of Campania sound, consist of three wooded islands 250 feet high, with several small rocky islets close to. North Surf islands, 250 feet high, lying three-quarters of a mile \V. by N. ^ N. from South Surf islands, consist of three wooded islands one mile in extent N.N.W. and S.S.E. SQUALLY CHANNEL, between Gil and Campania islands, is 10 miles long E.S.E. and W.N.W., and from 2i to 4^ miles wide. Gil island, which forms the nortli side of Squally channel, is 15 miles long N.W. by N. and S.E. by S., and 6 miles broad. Turtle point, the north extreme of the island, is a peninsula, with small bays east and west of it. The south-east extreme of Gil island is wooded, flat, and low. Mount Gil, near the north-east end of the island, attains the elevation of 3,000 feet, the summit being well defined, and always clad with snow on the north side. Channel reef uncovers at low water, and extends half a mile from the south extreme of Gil island (Ledge point), and fringes the shore Seeohait, No. 1,923a. Chap. XIII.] COMPANIA SOUND.— PAPItANT ISLAND. 483 of that island, at the same distance, for 1| miles north-westward of Ledge point. Windy islets are a group of three, the outer of which lies half a mile from the south-west shore of Gil island, at 2 miles westward of Ledge point. Windy rock uncovers at low water, and lies half a mile E.S.E. from the outer or south Windy islet. There is a depth of 20 fathoms at one cable south of the rock. Black rock, situated on the north shoi-e of Sexually channel at 2 cables from the south-west extreme of Gil island (Blackrock point), the turning point into Lewis passage, covers at high water, is small and nearly steep-to. Violent squalls will often be experienced in Squally channel, descending from the high land of Campania island, when calms or light winds and smooth water will be found in Whale channel. Lewis passage, between Gil and Fin islands, takes a northerly direction for 4 miles, thence a north-west direction for 4 miles into Wright sound, with an average width of 1^ miles. Fin island, 2 miles westward of Gil island, is 4 miles long in a north and south direction, with an average breadth of 1^ miles. Plover point, the north extreme, has a bay close southward of it, with several islets lying oft' the entrance ; the bay dries throughout at low water. Four bare rocky islets fringe the north shore of Fin island, at the distance of one cable. Fin rock, awash at high water, lies on the western shore of the channel, 2 cables from the south extreme of Fin island. Cridgre passage, between Fin and Farrant islands, is 3 miles long in an E.N.E. and W.S.W direction, and one mile wide. Farrant island, at the sotith-east entrance of Grenville channel, is 9 miles long W.N.W. and E.S.E., and from 4 to C. miles broad. The land on the south side of Farrant island reaches an elevation of 1,700 feet. Blossom point, the south extreme of the island, has a small islet lying close to, with a ledge extending one cable south-west from it. Block head, the eastern extreme, terminates in a high, bitld, white cliff. The coast between Block head and Yolk point is bi oken into several bays ; the largest lies close under the latter poin*, and has See chart, No. 1,923a. SO 11948 2H2 481 LAREDO SOUND TO OGDEN CHANNEL. [Chap. XIII. two patches of rock which uncover, lying 2 cables from the shore at its entrance. Yolk point, the north-east extreme of the island, lies 3^ miles W. by N. I N. from the north extreme of Gil island, and 4 miles N.W. from Block head. Yolk point is smooth, bare, and rocky, and is nearly steep-to. Davenport point, the north extreme of Farrant island, lies 3 miles W.N.W from Yolk point. Union passage (Matliksimtas), between Farrant and Pitt islands, enters Grenville channel about 4 miles westward of Yolk point. This passage has not been explored. WHALE CHANNEL, between Princess Royal and Gil islands, is 12 miles long N.N.W. and S.S.E., and from 2 to 3 miles wide. Leading point, on the eastern shore, 5 miles southward of Holmes bay (see page 434), has immediately over it a conspicuous hill, 700 feet high. River bight, between Holmes bay and Leading point, is a deep indentation with a large river at its head. Maple point, on the western shore, abreast of Holmes bay, is comparatively low, and wooded, with many maple trees growing. Shrub point, on the western shore, .5 miles southward of Maple point, is comparatively low, flat, and wooded. Camp islet, a small, conspicuous, wooded islet, lying 2 cables from the western shore, at 9 miles southward of Maple point, is connected with the eastern shore of Gil island at low water. South of Camp islet there is a comparatively deep bay, one mile wide at its entrance ; but which at low water is blocked by a ledge of rocks which uncover. Molly point, on the western shore, one mile south-east of Camp islet, is the turning point of Whale channel into Campania sound. Barnard cove, south-east of Trouble island, affords shelter to boats and small craft. Pass in mid-channel between Trouble island and the eastern shore of Whale channel, and anchor in 20 fathoms, mud, in the eastern part of the cove, at 2 cables from the eastern shore. Passage island, situated at the junction of Whale channel and Campania sound, is 2 miles long in a north and south direction, and one mile broad. It is wooded, the tops of the trees being about 250 feet above high water. Off the south-east side of Passage island, a group of islets, rocks, and sunken dangers extend half a mile in a south-easterly direction. See chart, No. 1,923a. Chap. XIII.J WHALE CHANNEL,— CAMPANIA ISLAND, 485 The passages east and west of Passage ishmd are deep, and 6 cables wide. On the eastern shore of the eastern channel, several rocky islands extend from one to 2 cables from the shore, ofiE the entrance to a bay, ESTEVAN SOUND, between Estevan and Campania islands, is about 15 miles long W,N,W, and E.S,E., and from 2i to 5 miles wide. At the south-east entrance are several islets and sunken rocks, nearly in mid-channel. To a stranger, therefore, Estevan sound cannot be recommended. If, however, circumstances should necessitate its being made use of, a course should be steered to pass three-quarters of a mile northward of South Watcher islet. Thence a general course of W,N.W,. cautiously, for 15 miles, should take a vessel into Nepean sound, keeping nearer the south shore of the channel, to avoid t le dangerous ledges which extend one mile from the south side of Campania island. IS CAMPANIA ISLAND is nearly 15 miles long "W.N.W, and E.S,E, and from one mile to 4 miles broad. At one mile from its eastern extreme the island has an elevation of 1,000 feet, increasing westward, until it culminates in two bare mountains, with dome-shaped summits, 2,000 feet high. These mountains are of granite formation, and furnish an excellent landmark when seen from seaward. From their summits, which are 4 and 6 miles respectively from the eastern extreme of the island, the land slopes to the westward, the western end of Campania island being, com- paratively, low and wooded. The north-east extreme terminates in a high, bold, white cliff. The southern coast is low, wooded, and broken into bays and creeks, fringed by islets, rocks awash at high water, and at low water, to the distance of one mile. The western coast is bold, and little broken. Marble rock, a small, white rock, C feet above high water, lies half a mile from it. 'iOUth "Watcher is a small wooded islet, 100 feet high, lying nearly in mid-channel at the eastern entrance of Estevan sound, 3^ff miles S.W. ^ W. from Eclipse island ; ledges, which uncover at low water, extend from it N.W. and S.E. half a mile. See chart, No. I,g23a. 486 LAREDO SOUND TO OGDEN CHANNEL. [Chap. XIII. 1'^ North Watcher islet, (50 feut high, iH small, wooded and con- spicuous ; it lies lyff miles W. I N. from South Watcher islet ; ledges which uncover, and sunken dangers surround it to the distance of 8 cables. Blinder rock, over which the sea breaks occasionally, lies one mile S.W. by W. from the summit of South Watcher islet, and a little more than one mile S.E. from North Watcher islet. Estevan ledge, which uncovers at low water, is one cable in extent, and lies 8 cables West from the summit of North Watcher islet. Breaker point, the eastern extreme of Estevan island, is low and wooded ; Don ledge, which uncovers at low water, extends 6 cables E.N.E. from the ]K)iut. Breaker reef consists of three rocks awash, surrounded by sunken rocks over which the sea nearly always breaks ; the outer rock lies 2^ miles S.W. from Breaker point, and nearly 1^ miles from the nearest part of Estevan island. Trap rocks, some of which are awash at high water, extend 8 cables northward from the north extreme of Estevan island, and thence front the western end of the island at the distance of 2 to 6 cables. Guano rocks, on the north shore of Estevan sound, consist of a cluster of three white rocks, lying one mile distant from the south side of Campania island at (5 miles westward of Eclipse island. The highest rock is 30 feet above high water, and the group is surrounded by rocks awash and sunken rocks to the distance of from 5 to 7 cables. Between Guano rocks and Eclipse island, ledges which uncover at low water extend from 5 to G cables from the shore. Marble rock, half a mile westward of the west extreme of Campania island, is a bare rock 6 feet above high water, small, white, and conspicuous ; it is nearly steep-to en all sides. NEPEAN SOUND, between Estevan sound and Principe channel, is about 7 miles long and 4 miles wide. Otter channel, between Pitt island and Campania island, con- nects Nrpean sound with Squally channel, and is about 3^ miles See chart, No. 1,923a. ILtflcssM Chap. XIII.] E8TEVAN SOUND.— PRINCIPE CHANNEL. 487 long, and from iJg mileH at itw western, to one mile wide at its eastern end. Steep point, the north-eastern entrance point of the channel, terminates in a high, bold, white cliff. Otter passage leads south-westward from Nepean sound, between Estevan and Banks islands. This passage, though nearly 1^ miles wide, is obstructed om its western shore l)y a group of islands, islets, and rocks (Block islets), which contract the navigable channel to barely 4 cables wide in places. This narrow channel is rendered more dangerous by the strong tidal streams in it, the greater portion of the ebb stream finding its way out of Nepean sound by this passage, at the rate of more than 6 knots an hour at springs, which, meeting the ocean swell at the western entrance of this passage, produces a most turbulent breaking sea, dangerous to small vessels. In no case should Otter passage be attempted, except at slack water and with local knowledge. PRINCIPE CHANNEL, between Pitt and Banks islands, is about 42 miles long W.N.W, and K.S.E,, and from 2 to 7 miles wide. The south shore of the channel is bold, with mountains from 1,200 to 1,700 feet rising over it. The north shore is much broken into bays, especially about midway, in two of which, ports Stephens and Canaveral, anchorage may be found. Directions. — A mid-channel course should be kept when naviga- ting Principe channel, until nearing Anger island, when the south shore should be closed to avoid the dangers which extend off that Island. Deer point, at 4 miles westward of Block islets, is a small peninsula on the south shore, which when first seen appears, to be an islet. Gale point is prominent, bold and high, and lies 5 miles N.W. of Deer point. A remarkable bare mountain, 1,250 feet high, is situated close to the shore at 4 miles westward from Gale point. Despair point, at 11 miles westward of Gale point, is bold, and nearly steep-to. Headwind point lies 51, miles westward of Despair point, thence the coast is bold and unbroken. Deadman islet, a small wooded islet, lies close to the shore off the north-west extreme of Banks island, about 15 miles westward of Headwind point. End hill, an oval-shaped hill 450 feet high, lies close to the south shore of Principe channel at 2 miles eastward of Deadman islet. See chart, No. 1,928a. •1 'I 488 LAREDO SCrND TO OGDEN CHANNEL. [Chap. Xlll. Wolf point, the south-eiiHt((rn entrdnce point of Principe channel, and the south point of Pitt island, is high, bold and conspicuous, with several small islets close-to. Brodle rook, a danfrerous sunken rock, lies one mile S.W. by W.^W. from Wolf point. Between llrodie rock and the shore the ground is foul to 2 miles westward of Wolf point. There is a depth of 66 fathoms at 2 cables south of Brodie rock. PORT STEPHENS, on the north shore, at about 8 miles within the eastern end of Principe channel, is 4 cables wide at its entrance.* Guide islet, a small bare islet, lies one mile eastward of the port, with two small islets (the Sisters) lying midway between it and port Stephens. BlufiE point, 8 miles N.W. by W. | W. from Wolf point, forms the western entrance point of port Stephens and terminates in a high white cliff. Oar point lies 6 miles W.N.W. from Bluff point, the coast between these points being bold and unbroken. Directions. — Keep midway between the entrance points (Bluff and Centre points), and steer N. by E. for half a mile ; thence N.E. for half a mile, keeping mid-channel. Haul gradually to the east- ward as the harbour opens out, and anchor in mid-channel in about 12 fathoms. Tides. — It is high water, full and change, at port Stephens at Oh. 30m.; springs rise 18 feet. Canoe islet, a small bare islet, not unlike a canoe in appearance, when first seen, lies off the mouth of Mink Trap bay, at one mile N.W. by W. ^ W. from Oar point. Green top islet, three-quarters of a mile N.W. by W. ^ W., from Canoe islet, is small, with a patch of grass and shrub on its summit. Mink Trap bay, about 8 miles westward of port Stephens, consists of two long narrow creeks, separated by a peninsula ; this bay has deep water in it, but it is useless as an anchorage for other than small vessels and boats. At the head of the eastern arm is an Indian village, to which a tribe of the Kitkatlah Indians resort in summer for salmon fishing. See chart, No. 1,923a. * See Admiralty plan:— Port Stephens, on sheet No. 2,189 ; aoale, m =3'2o inchea. Chap. Xin.] PORT STEPHENS.—rORT CANAVERAL. 489 Anger island, on the north Hhoro, r> miles westward of Oar point, is about 4 miles long and 2 miles broad ; near its western end the island reaches an elevation of 730 feet. Trade and Storm islands are clusters of islets which extend from 5 cables to H miles from the south and eastern shores of Anger iHland. The narrow channel between Auger and Pitt islands is intricate and dangerous, with numerous rocks awash at low water which in July were free from kelp. The passage is used during the salmon season by small steam-vessels collecting fish for the Skeena river canneries. Wheeler islet is a small wooded islet, distant .5 miles W. ^ N. from Foul point, the western extreme of Anger island. Cliff isleta extend north-east of Wheeler islet to the entrance of Petrel channel. These islets are bare and rocky, with foul ground between them and the shore of McCauley island. MoCauley island is 17 miles long, 9 miles broad, wooded nearly throughout, and near its centre rises l,l()0 feet. Almost midway, on its south side, a bare hill with a tlat top, 400 feet high, lies close to the shore. PORT CANAVERAL, near the south-east extreme of McCanley island, about 21 miles westward of port Stephen, is an inlet trending N.E. for about three-quarters of a mile with an average breadth of about 3 cables, and depths of 6 to 18 fathoms over it.* Dixon island lies on the western side of the port, with several islands and islets lying 2 cables off its south and eastern sides. Squall point, the south-east entrance point, is the termination of the spur from Hat hill, and is bold and conspicuous. Red point, on the north shore, opposite Squall point, has a cliff of red-brjwn colour over it. Alarm rock, with H and 10 fathoms close-to, is a dangerous sunken rock lying nearly in mid-channel at the entrance to port Canaveral, at l^ cables W.N.W. from Squall poi . . ind 2^ cables from Red point. Harbour bank, with 6 fathoms over it (probably less), lies 1^ cables north-eastward from Alarm rock, and midway between Squall and Red points. See chart, No. 1,923a. * Ste Admiralty plan :— ^Fort Canaveral, on sheet No. 2,189 ; scale, m = 3*26 inches. 490 LAREDO SOUND TO OGDEN CHANNEL. [Cbup. XIIL Clown rock, on the woHtern Hhoro, drieH '.) feot, and lies 2'-\ cublofl 8.E. by K. from Tonkin point, tho south oxtreme of Dixon iebind, with foul ground between it and the shore. Stephen rock, 3 feet al)cve high water, lien on tlio western shore at IJ cabk's from Dixon iwland. The outer portion of Stephen rock which uncoverH at low water, lieH 2 cables S.E. J E. from Dimple point, the north-east extreme of Dixon island. Direotions. — Entering port Canaveral, Dimple point may bo steered for when In line with Stephen rock, bearing N.W. I N., until the middle of 15uah islet is in line with Tonkin point l)earing W.S.W. A course N.E. by E. ^ E. will lead to the anchorage in 14 to 15 fathoms, sandy bottom, at 1| cables S.E. of Red point. Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in port Canaveral at Oh. 30m.; springs rise 18 feet. Bush and Dark islets are small, wooded islets, which lie close south of McCauley island, oil the entrance to port Canaveral, at 2 miles westward of Wheeler islet. Petrel ohanuel is an unexaminetl passage between Pitt and McCauley islanils ; its southern entrance is about 3 miles wide, thence the channel takes a north-west direction for nearly iles, when it divides, one passage going nortftiward, the other 8( .ird of Lofty island, and again joining at 2 miles eastward of Ogden channel. Noble mountain on Lofty island rises to a height of 2,874 feet. Hankin ledgres consist of rocks awash, and sunken dangers, which extend nearly one mile from Hankin point (south-west extreme of McCauley island). Tidal streams. — Tn Principe channel tlie flood stream, setting to the north-west, approaches principally by EstevaL sound, being joined in Nepean sound by the stream which enters through Otter passage. At the western end of Principe channel thin stream is met by the flood which has passed up outside Banks islanu. The ebb stream runs out principally by the Otter passage. Both streams attain a velocity of 3 knots an hour at springs. &r chart, No. l,Q23(i. m CHAPTER XIV. OUTER COAST.— CAPE CALVERT TO OGDEN CHANNEL. Variation in 1898. Capo Calvert. 25'' 10' E. | Ogden channel, 26" 45' E. CALVERT ISLAND, tho southern island at the entrance to Fitz Hugh sound, is 13 miles long N.W. and S.E., and H miles across at its broadest part. The southern and western coasts of Calvert island are but little broken, comparatively low, and thickly wooded. Sorrow island, situated at the pitch of cape Calvert, the south extreme of Calvert ii»land {see page inS), is conspicuous (and an excellent thick- weather mark) from its clill'y forniutiou, and i>y l ig covered with stunted, weather-beaten t! as.* Mark nipple, an isolated hill, 350 feet high, at thi- south-west extreme of Calvert island, is a very useful landmark when approach- ing Fitz Hugh sound. Position.— Cape Calvert, kit. 5F 25' N., long. 127' 55' W. Blakeney islet, 150 feet higli, half a mile from the south-west extreme of Calvert island, is small, wooded, and about half a mile long. Hedley patch, with 9 fathoms on it, and probably shoaler, is of small extent, and lies 3^ miles S.E. ^ E. from Blakeney islet. Fitz Roy reef uncovers at low water, and is about a half a mile in extent in an east and west direction. Its outer or western edge lies 1^ miles W. by N. from Blakeney islet, and U miles from the nearest shore of Calvert island. Carrington reefs are a cluster of sunken rocks, the outer edge of wLich lies half a mile from the western coast of Calvert island, at 1| miles N.N.W. | W. from Blakeney islet. * See Admiralty charts :— Cape Caution to port Simpson, No. 1,9236 ; scale, m =r 0'26 of an inch ; also No. l,^23a ; scale, m = 0-25 of an inch. i i 492 t CAPE CALVERT TO OGDEN CHANNEL. [Chap. XIV. < * i The coast of Calvert ishinil, northward of the Carrington reefs, if, foul to the distance of 5 cables. KwakShua is an unexamineil channel between Calvert and Hecate islands. At its western entrance this passage is half a mile wide, and takes a north-easterly direction. {See page 402.) Kwakflhua rock lies nearly in mid-channel, at the western entrance of Kwakshna channel. The si>a only breaks at intervals over this dangerous sunken rock. Hecate reefs fringe the western coast of Hecate island to the distance of 8 cables. HAKAI CHANNEL, between Hecate and Nalau islands, is about 7 miles long N.E. i N. and 8.W. ^ S., and from one to 1^ miles wide. (See page 402.) Sugar-loaf hill, on the western side of Hecate island, is 500 feet high. Lending peak, about 1^ miles southward of Sugar-loaf hill, has a sharj), well defined summit. South Pointers are a cluster of bare black rocks, of small extent, 2 foet above high water, surrounded by sunken dangers to the distance of 2 cables ; they lie on the south shore, at the western entrance of Hakai channel, Ih miles westward of the Starfish, group. North Pointers are a cluster of bare rocks, of light colour, lying on the north shore at the western entrance of Hakai channel. The western or oiiter rock lies 2i miles N.N.W. from South Pointer rocks. Breaker grroup, situated on the north shore in the middle of Hakai channel, is about one mile in extent, the larger islands being wooded, about 250 feet high, and the smaller bare. Breaker ledge uncovers at half ebb, and lies half a mile S.E. from the centre island of the Breaker group. Directions. — Hakai channel is not recommended to a stranger. If using it, steer midway between North and South Pointers rocks, and thence a mid-channel course (N.E. \ N.) towards a conspicuous mountain on the eastern shore of Fitz Hugh sound, which will lead through hito that sound. STARFISH GROUP, wooded, from 70 to 150 feet high, lie on the south shore, and extend about J ^ niih's N.E. and S.W. The group consists of three principal islands, much broken into long, rocky, narrow creeks with shores of white cliffs. Starfish ledge, over which the sea usually breaks, lies 2 cables from the north-west shore of Long island, the northernmost of the Starfish group.* See chart, No. 1,923&. * Set plan : — Welcome harbour No. 1,462 ; scale, wt = 4*0 inches. Chap. XIV.] HA.KA1 CHANNEL.— WELCOME HARBOUR. 493 East rook, off the entrance to Welcome harbour, is awash at low water, and lies half a mile off shore, N. by E. from the western entrance point. There are depths of 2i^ and ;25 fathoms close to East rock, and 150 fathoms between that rock and Port reef, which latter is awash at high water, and lies 2 cables E. i S, from East rock. Leading peak seen in line with Bluff point bearing S. by E. | E. will lead westward of these rocks. Choked pjussage lies southward of the Starlish gro" p ; it is obstructed by rocks awash, reefs, and sandbanks. WELCOME HARBOUR, situated on the south shore of Hakai channel near its western end, is .'5 cables wide at its entrance, and l^ miles long in a S.S.E. direction. Thougli somewliat confined, it affonls good shelttT to small vessels, and within the harbour, on the north shore, tlicre is a s;ituly beach whoro a vessel might i)e beached. Strong westerly winds send a swwli into tliis harbour,* Exposed bay, situated just eastward of Welcome harbour, has a dangerous cluster of sunken rocks near the middle of the bay. Fairway rock, with 24 feet water over it, lies nearly in mid- channel at the entrance to Welcome harbour. There is a depth of 20 fathoms cbise westward, and of '.) fathoms close eastward of the rock. Leading peak seen just eastward of Bluff' point bearing S. by E. ^ E. will lead eastward ; and Sugar-loaf hill, seen in line with Leading island (a small, round, woode<l island within the harbour), will lead close westward of Fairway rock. Harbour iedge, situated one cable from the western shore of Harbour island, is of small extent, and drii's '.) feet at low water. Codfish rock, with 1 2 feet water ovt^r it, lies 100 yards off the south shore of Harbour island. Wolf rock, awash at high water, lies close to the east shore, at nearly 2 cables northward of Sandspit point. Directions. — Having i)assed not less than luiif a mile northward of Starfish group, the leading mark before given for clearing East rock should be brought on and steered for. Kspecial care will be necessary if the Hood stream be making. Having cleared East rock, pass east or west of Fairway rock as requisite, and anchor in 7 to 1) fathoms in mid-channel between Leading island and Wolf rock, with the former bearing W.N.W. distant one cable. * A'cplan : — Welcome harbour, on Admiralty cliart, No. I,4<>2 ; scale, »» = i-0 inches. 494 CAPE CALVERT TO OGDEN CHANNEL. [Chap. XIV. J ! Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in Welcome harbour at noon ; springs rise from 15 to 16 feet, neaps 12 to 13 feet. The flood stream sets to the north-eastward. Both streams attain a velocity of 4 knots an hour at springs. NALAU PASSAGE, between the Nalau group and Hunter island, is obstructed by islands, islets, rocks awash, and sunken dangers, and is ust'less for navigation. White Cliff island, situated 4 miles W. by N. ^ N., from the western or out(^r Noith Pointer rock, is of small extent, bare, and 250 feet in height ; its coast, consisting of high white cliffs, renders it conspicuous when seen from the south and west. A reef, on which the sea breaks at low- water, lies midway between White Cliff island and the North Pointers. QUEEN'S SOUND, between Goose and Hunter islands, is about 12 miles long N. by E. and S. by W., and from 4 to 8 miles wide. At its northern end is a mass of islands and islets, which render that portion of the sound intricate and dangerous. Spider island, 250 feet high, on the eastern entrance to Queen's sound, is iU miles long, N.N.W. and S.S.E. and 1,V miles broad ; it is connected with Hunter island by a ledge of rocks awash, through which there are boat passages, and its north-west extreme terminates in high, bold, white cliffs. Superstition point on the eastern shore of Queen's sound, 2 miles northward of Spider island, is the south-west extreme of a small island, which is connected with Hunter island by a narrow neck, awash at high wat(;r. Superstition leilge consists of high rocks, connected by rocks awasli and sunken dangers, the outer extreme of which lies 1;^ miles S.W. from Superstition point. Strong tide races will be met with in the vicinity of tins b'dge, ai)d the sea breaks upon it heavily at times. Purple bluff, the south-west extreme of a group of islands, on the eastern shore of Queen's sound, at the t>ntn;ney to Plumper channel, terminates in high, iMdd, Ijasaltic cliffs of :i purple tint. The group consists of numerous islands, islets (wooded and bare), rocks awash, and sunken rocks, extending over a space of nearly 5 miles. See ohai't, No. l,923i. au Chap. XIV.] NALAU PASSAGE.— BROKEN GHOUP. 495 Purple bluff lies 5 miles N.W. of Spider island, and 5 miles from the Goose island group. Goose islands, on the western shoro of Queen's sound, consist of four principal iwlands, connected at low water, the largest and northernmost iK'ing about !2(H) feet high, and wooded ; its north- east extreme terminates iueonspicnouH. Iiigli, wliite clitrrt. Yellocki, an Indian fishing village, is situated on the eastern side of the westernmost Goose island. Gosling rocks consist of numerous rocks, awash at high water, and sunken dangers, the outer (extreme of which lies nearly 4 miles S.S.E. from the southi'rnmost Goose island. West rock, awash at high water, lies one mih^ S.W. of the westernmost Goose island. Plumper channel, between Hunter and Campbell islands, leads from Queen's sound into Lama passage ; its southern end is obstructed by numerous islets and rocks, and no specific directions can be given for entering it. Hecate channel, between Campbell island and the Bardswell group, leads from Queen's sound into S<^aforth channel, and is also obstructed at its soutisern end by numerous islets and rocks. The two principal passages are Codfisii passage and Hrown narrows ; no directions, however, can be given for entering them. BROKEN GROUP (Qual a qute), situated 2 miles north- ward of the Goose island group, extentl 2 miles N.N.W. and S.S.E., and consist of several ' 'ets and rocks, c(mnected throughout by ledges which uncover ai low water. Fiiigal Island (Ivuhmkeate) is a small, wooded island, lying one mile W, by N. from the northernmost island of the Broken group. Fiiii,Ml ledges extend one mile in a southerly direction from Fingai inland, and consist of rocks awash, and ledges which uncover at low water. Peveril rock lies 1^ miles N.N.E. from the northernmost Goose island, and is H feet high. Middle rock, (i feet liigh, lies ;{ miles N.W. l)y W. }, W. from the north-west extreme of North (roose island. North breaker, a dangerous sunken rock, lies one mih' N.N.W. trom Middle rock. There is a depth of '21 fathoms, rock, at one nule westward of the North breaker. See chart, No. l,923i. 496 CAPE CALVERT TO OGDBN CHANNEL. [Chap. XIV. Limit island (Tmaitlek) is a small wooded island, with foul ground extending half a mile south-west from it. Rempstone rocks consist of two patches awash at high water, one mile apart, lying E. by S. and W. by N. from each other. The western or outer rock lies 1^ miles S.S.E. h E. from cape Swain. BARDSWELL GROUP, forming the eastern side of Milbank sound, consists of low, wooded islands, extending over a space of 7 miles square, the largest of which, Dufferin island, forms the west shore of Hecate channel. Among the group are several boat channels, communicating between Milbank sound, and Seaforth and Hecate channels. Position.— Cape Swain, lat. 52° 8' 50" N., long. 128° 33' 30" W. ARISTAZABLE ISLAND is about 2G miles long. N.W. and S.E., and is from one to 10 miles broad, and wooded. South range, at about 8 miles from its south-east extreme, is a conspicuous saddle- shaped hill 640 feet high. Near the western end of the island, over the north shore, North range, a bare ridge of hills, with four conspicuous peaks, rises to the height of 950 feet. Over the south extreme of the island there are some bare hills 350 feet high, and at the extreme western end of the island there is a remarkable boulder or nob lying on the summit of a bare hill. Wllite rock, 100 feet high, bare and conspicuous, situated 5 miles N.W. by W. I W. from Entrance island, is the outer rock of a group extending 2 miles from the shore of Aristazable island. Sentinel island, 250 feet high, small, rounti, wooded, and conspicuous, lies off the south point of Aristazable island, li miles from the shore, at 4 miles W. ^ N. from White rock. Several rocks awash and sunken rocks lie north-westward of Sentinel island, and also fringing the south shore of Aristazable island. GANDER ISLANDS (Cha che kwas), islets and rocks, extend 11 miles N.N.W. and S.S.E., and 4 miles broad, at about 6 miles from the south shore of Aristazable island. The larger islands of the group are wooded, the smaller ones bare, and tlie tops of the trees arn from 70 to 150 feet above high water. Large Gander island, the northernmost and largest of the group, is abou'. 2 miles long N.N.W. and S.S.E., and half a mile broad. Middle S-fl chart, No. l,i>2;ifc. Thap. XIV.] (tAXDRR ISLANDS.— ESTEV AN ISLAND. 497 Gander islands are two small, wooded inlands, lyinjL,' close tofjfether, the northern inland 5 miles S.S.E. from the south extreme of Large Gander island. A bare rock, witli sunken rocks surrounding it, lies 2 miles N.W. by N. from the Middle Gander islands. South Gander island liet^ (me mile H.S.E. from the Middle Gander islands, is 4| cables long N.N.W. and S.S.K., is half a cable Imwid, 70 feet high, and wooded. South-east Gander islands are two small wooded islands 1 '0 feet high, lying close together, '.\ miles S.K. l)y E. from South Gander island. Two small, bare, rocky islets lie H miles north-west of South-east Gander islands. G(»ose ledge, which uncovers at low water, lies i5 miles S. by W. j, W. from South-i-ast Gander islands, and i\ miles S.K. i E. from South Gander island. Sparrowhawk breakers lie, respectively, 4 and 6i miles S. )»y E. from South-east (iander islands. There is a depth of Ul fathoms between these dangers. Tide rip islands, 2 miles northward of the Gander group, extend 12 miles N.X.VV. and S.S.E., are wooded, and about 200 feet high ; the northern and largest island terminating at its north-west extreme, in high, white conspicuous cliffs, 2J, miles westward of Devils point, the north-west point of Aristazable island. Tidal streams. — The Hood stream sets to the northward, both flood and ebb streams attaining at springs, among these islands, a rate of 4 knots an hour. Caution. — An extended <>xamination has not been made of the Gander and Tide rip groups and their vicinity, and the tidal streams are strong, the channels between them, though deep, should not be attempted by a stranger. When approaching these groujis of islands, the lead and look-out should be esi)ecially attended to. ESTEVAN ISLAND is about 14 miles long W. by N. and TO. by S., and from 2 to .') miles broad ; the southern shores being comparatively low, wooded, and much l)roken into bays and creeks. Near the centre it attains an elevation of 1,.'»00 to 1,7(X) feet, forming a saddle-shapetl mountain with the highest part to the westwaril.* Haycock island, small, bare, and 00 feet high, lies 7 miles W. by S. ij S. from Hreaker jioint, the eastern extreme of lOstevan island. Haycock rocks are three i-ocks awash, which lie respectively W. by S., S. by K., and N. by E. distant one mile from Haycock island. SO 11948 .Str chart, No. l,^2^ti. 21 498 CAPE CALVERT TO OOnEN CHANNEL. [Chap. XTV. The passage between Haycock ishvnd and Estevan island shouhl not be attempted. Curtis point, on the south shore of Estevan island, 4| miles N.W. I W. from the summit of Haycock island, is low and wooded, with some rocky islets close to. Curtis rock, a dangerous sunken rock, over which the sea breaks occasionally, lies oiio mile S.S.W. from Curtis point. Cox point, is the west extreme of Estevan island. Marchant rock, over which the sea breaks at low water, lies 2 miles South from Cox point, and 1^ miles from the nearest coast of Estevan island. Cone islet, small, wooded, 250 fe'^t high, and conical, is the southernmost of the Block islets, and lies at the soiuhern entrance of Otter passage, and on the west side of that channel, ai 2 miles from the coast of Banks island. Breaker islets, which lie off the eastern end of Banks islantl, at one mile westward of Cone islet, consist of a group of islets and rocks awash, the highest islet being about 70 feet high and wooded. BANKS ISLAND is about 41 miles long, W. by N. and E. l)y S., and from 5 to 10 miles broad. The southern coast is wooded and comparatively low, seldom exceeding 150 feet in height, and is broken into bays and creeks, rendered useless as anchorages by numerous rocks awash, and sunken dangers. Calamity bay, at the eastern extreme of Banks island, is 3 miles wide at its entrance, and extends ){ miles in a north-westerly direction ; it consists of iron-bound shores, with rocky islets and sunkt'u dangers occupying the bay nearly throughout. Terror point, the south-east extreme of Banks island, is high and bold, 2(X) feet above high water. From its outer extreme this point slojies inland, and when first sv en appears as an island. Terror rocks consist of rocks awash and sunken rocks, over which the sea breaks heavily, extending one mile south-eastward from Terror point. Shrub Islet, of small extent, 80 feet iiigh, with a conspicuous patch of bush upon its summit, lies ',i miles S.W. h W. from Terror point, and has sunken rocks s-irrounding it to the distance of 15 cables. Grief point, H miles N.W. by W. ^ W. from Terror point, is low and wooded. A ledge, consisting of rocks ,iwash and sunken ,«&'/' chjirt, No. l,923rt. Cha)). XIV.] fOX POINT,— nONTLA ISLAND. iW \ (lanj^erH, extcndH H miles S.W. from Grief point. Foul hay, between Grief and Wreck pointH, is 5 miles wide, and 2 miles deep ; it is, however, useless as an ancli()raf,'e, beinj? obstructed by islets, rocks, and sunken danjjers. Junk led^'c, consistinj,' of rocks awash, itiul ledt,'es which uncover at low water, (extends nearly 2 miles S.K. frmn Wreck jxiint. North Danger rocks, 7 miles southward of Wreck point, ai-e a dan^'erous cluster of five bare rocks of small extent, 10 feet above hi^'h water, and surrounded by rocks awash and sunken rocks for half a mile. The centre of the cluster lies IS miles S.E. by K. J, M. from the summit of Bonila island. Vessels should keep southward of the line joiuiufj; Shrub islet and North Dan^rer rocks, and not pass between those dangers and Hanks island. Halibut rocks consist of two dangerous clusters (covered at high water) about half a mile each in extent, lying W.N.W. and K.S.E., distant 1.^ miles from each other. The centre of the eastern cluster lies 8 miles K. by S. ^ S. from the summit of Bonila island, and i'i miles S.K. by S. from Cliff point. Cliff point, (5 miles W. :| N. from Kelp point, terminates in high, bold, white cl ill's. Three small rocky islets lie near the shore close eastward of the point. South rocks consist of two clusters of rocks awash at high water, of small extent, lying S.S.K. and X.N.W., distant one mile from each other. The south or onU'v group, ov» v which the pea usually breaks heavily, lies 15^ mihis S.S.E. from the sunmit of Monila island. High- water rocks, lying nearly mitlway between Honila island and ClilV point, consists of six rocks, awash at high water, about 2 cables in extent, at 2] miles E. h B. from the summit of l)(»nila island. Bonila island, situated '.> miles S.S.E. from the north-west point of Hanks island, and -A miles from the south c(»ast of the island, forms an excellent landmark. The island is about 2 mile„ long east and west, and one mile broad, having on its eastern shore two small bays, with some rocky islets lying off them at 2 cables from the shore. Near the centre the island reaches a"i elevation of ");■)() feet, the summit being dome-shaped, falling almost perpendicularly on its north and south sides, but sloping gradually to the westwartl. Sie chart, No. l,t»2Srt, SO USt48 2 12 5r)0 CAPE CAIiVRRT TO ()(;nEN OHANN'KL. [Chiip. XTV. During the summer montlis, the sideB of Bonihv pesik are clothed with purplo-tinted lieather. Landiiij,' may be effecttMl at the head of the southern small bay on the eustern side of Bonila islan<l. Position. — Tl\e summit of I'.onila island is siluatt-d in latitude r»:r 2s' my n., ionf,'itud<' kui' :•.-» ]-) w. North-west rocks are a cluster, half a mile in extent, lying 2 mih(s N.W. by W. from the summit of Pxmila island ; the highest rock is ;i feet above high water. North rocks, a cluster, about half a mile in extent, and awash at high water, lie 1^ miles K.N.K. from the centre of the North-west rocks, ami '2 miles N.N.W. from the summit of Honila island. Middle rucks, two clusters, awash at low water, lie respectively 1.', miles W.X.W, and '2 miles N.N.K. from the summit of Honila island. White rocks lie dose to the shore at the westej-n extreme of Hanks island : the two largest rocks are about )>(> feet al)ove high water, bare and conspicuous, with several smaller rocks surroinuliug them, and they form an excellent landmark when making Ogden channel from Hecate strait. Anchorage for small cralt in line weather is stated to be obtainable close noithward of White rocks at tiie mouth of a creek. There is also anchorage reported to exi.Ht generally off the north-west coast of Hanks island. Supplies. — (lame abounds on all the off-lying islands. Notwith- standing the presence of wolves, deer are in great numbers, especially on the southern siiores, which ap})ear to be their favouritt; resort. Water is plentiful at all seasons, the source apparently being springs. Trout may be procured in the streams. Berries, especially the whortleberry, cranberry, and wild raspberry, have been found in abundance <luring duly and August. Cedar and i)itch pine are the i»rincipal woods met witii. Browning entrance is the approach common to the south end of Ogden channel and the west end of Princi])e channel. It is included between the south side of (Joschen island and the north- west extreme of Hanks island, and Ix'iwet'ii cai)e (reorge and White rocks is 14 miles wide. OGDEN CHANNEL, situated between Pitt and Horcher islands, is about It) miles long, ami from 4 cables to ]}, miles wide, and Chap. XIV.] BONILA IHLAN'D.— nKAVEll PAHSAfJE. noi iillords tliu shortest nu-uns of loininuniciitioii bet ween Quocu Charlotte IshmdH (SkideK'ate) and the Inner waters. At its southern end, Ogtlen channel is divided by Spieer island into Schooner and IJeaver jtassages ; and at one mile n(»rth\vard of Spieer island the channel is obstructed by Channel islands, which reduce the navij,'able channel to 4 cables wide.* On the eastern side of Dolphin island, dose to the shore, Passage cone, 4r)4 feet high, is an usefid mark for indicating Schooner l)assage. On the north-west sich- of Spieer island a saddle-shaped hill ri^es .^'00 feet. Spieer island, situated In-tween McCauiey and Dolphin islands, is 827 feet high. On its south-east side two small narrow bays indent the shore in a north-westerly direction ; and off its south- west side, at half a mile from the shore, are Christie islanils, a cluster of islets and rocks, some wooded and others bare. I^ong island consists of two low wooded islets, lying close together at li mile.s southward of Spieer island. Channel island is a small wooded islet, lying nearly midway between Long and Spieer islands. Channel group lies one mile northward of S])icer islaiul. The large islands are wooded, and the eastern islet of the grou}) is small, bare, and conspicuous. Half a-mile northward of tlu! Channel group are some small ishtts, one bare (White rock), anil another covei-ed with vegetation (False grassy isletj. South Twin islet is a small wooded islet on the eastern shore, half a mile from the eastern islet of the Channel group anil one mile northwanl of Spieer island. This islet, and the eastern bare islet of the Channel group, indicate the navigable channel, which lies between them. North Twin islet, resembles South Twin islet from which it lies N.N.W., distant half a mile. The tops of the trees ou North Twin islet are about I'M feet high. Dolphin island. — There is an anchorage on the north-west side of Dolphin island, in the bay olE Kitkatlah village^ in II fathoms, with Village point bearing Kast, ami the hii'ire white stone South. The channel between Dolphin and CJoscheii islands is rocky and dangerous, with strong tides, and should not be attempted. BEAVER PASSAGE, between McCauiey ami Spieer islands, is the wider and better of the two passages leailing into Ogden channel. • Sir Admiralty chart; — Ojjdan ehiinncl and adjacent anchorajfes, Xd. l.'JOi ; scale, m = 1 inuh. 502 CAPK CALVKIIT TO OCDKN CHANN'KL. [Chap. XIV. At its wi'stiTii oiitraiico Beaver piiHsiigc is about half a luilo wide, and takoH a N.N.l'i. •{ K. direction for about 4.^ miles, thence turning sliarplj' to the N.W. by W., towards tlic Channel group, for 2i milcH. North rock in always viHil)le, and lies nearly in mid-channel at the southern entrance of IJeaver passage, half a mile south-east from Long island. ConniB rock lies on the western shore (marked by kelp in the summer season) 3 cables from the north-east extreme ()f Spicer island. The outer of these rocks only covers at high water. The east side of Long island touching the west side of Channel island bearing H.S.W. J W. leads eastward of Connis rock. On the eastern shore, alnoast Connis rock, is a small cone-shaped wooded islet off a sandj" bay. SCHOONER PASSAGE, between Spicer and Dolphin islands, is barely 2 cables wide in its narrowest part, and is about 3 miles long north and south. Boys rock, a dangerous sunken rock, lies at the southern end of Schooner passage, 2 cables from the south-east extreme of Dolphin island. There is a depth of 4'.> fathoms, rock, at 2 cables South of Boys rock. Tidal streams.— The flood stream sets to the northward, and near the north end of Ogden channel divides, one part turning east- ward into Grenville channel, the other continuing northward towards Skeena river. The ebb stream from Grenville channel, Chatham sound, and Skeena river, unite off the north end of Ogden channel, and i)a8s out by it. The muddy water of Skeena river is usually distinguished against the blue water of Ogden channel. Both Hood and ebb streams, in the narrow portions of Ogden channel, attain a velocity of 4 knots an hour at springs. ALPHA BAY, situated on the eastern shore, 4 miles within the ncjrth entrance of Og<len channel, faces the west, anil is nearly one mile wide, but only I) cables deep. Near its northern end a deep valley extends inland, and through it flows a fine trout stream. From the south entrance point of this stream a sandspit extends 2 cables towards the north point of Alpha bay.* * Ute Admirally |)lan :— Alpha bay, on Admiralty chart, No. l,9Ul ; scale, m = 6-0 inches. Chap. XIV.] OODEN CHAN'NRL. 5(»3 Anchorage may be obtained in ](l and 11 fiithonis, at U nibles from the neareHt Hhore (Fish point), with the south entrance jioint of the trout stream bearing N.K. distant 2^ cables, and Anchor mountain over the north shore of tiie bay N.K. i N. ; in this p«»sition the point on the western shore under Rareside mountain should Ik; seen in line with north point of Ali)ha Imy, bearing X. by W. ^ W. Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in Alpha bay at noon ; springs rise 1« to 19 feet. Peninsula point, the nortli-west entrance point of Ogden channel, is prominent, with a hill near its eastern extreme, North- ward of the point, at the mouth of the river Oona, is Oona bay, al)out half a mile wide, and one mile deep in a westerly direction. There is said to be anchorag*' in H or 10 fathoms water on the north siile of Peninsula point, near the mouth of the river Oona. See chart, No. 1,IK)I. ,'*()4 CIIAITKK XV. PORTLAND AND OBSERVATORY INLETS AND PORTLAND CANAL. Variation, 27.1," E;i.st in 18'.»H. PORTLAND INLET extundH (vum Chathiim souiul N. by K. i K. for 10 inilcH, whore it dividun, oiu- arm continuing nortliw.inl to tlm head ol" Observatory inlet and the other to the head of I'ortland eanui. At its southern entrance, between Wales ind Maskelyne points, the inlet is about ;{ miles wide, and its shores are eoniiiaratively free from danger beyitnd the distance of 2 cables.* ComptOn island, at the north entrance of Work channel, is nf triangular shape, with a base ',' miles long to the southwaril, the northern extreme of the island terminating in a long, low point. There is a boat passage into Work channel eastward of Compton island. Emma passagre, northward o*' Compton island, is half a mile wide, and takes an P'.8.E. directi<-!i for 3 miles, thence N.N.E. 3 miles, and terminating in a sandy bay. The (h'pths throughout the latter arm are from 23 to l»(! fathoms. Union bay, at the head of the south-east arm, affords anchorage for small vessels in 20 fathoms at one cable from either shore. Somerville Island, 2,000 f»>et high, on the eastern sid(! of the inlet, is S^ miles long, N. by K. and S. by W., and 15 miles broad. The coast of this island is wooded, and bold, the land on its western side rising almost perpendicularly from the sea. Elliott point is the south extreme of Homerville island. Truro island, 2 cables from the south-west side of Somerville island, is about 1\ miles long N. by E. and S. by W., and nearly half a mile broad. The island is wooded, and culminates in two • Set! Admiralty chart :— Port Himpaon to Port MoArthur, No. 2,4.">8 ; scale, »»=:0'24 of an inch. Chap. XV.] I'OIlThAND INLET. 505 hiiirt «(KI led high. Nub ialet ib ii Himill, ruuinl, wnuiletl inlot, ;U> iW't hif,'li, lyiiijjf cloHO to th»' wcHtvin shore «»f .Soim-rvillc IsIuikI, diHumt .S ciiblort I'niiii tlic north cxtit'iiu' of Tniro irtlaml. There Ihh reiiiark- uble whito cliff jiiHt Houthwiiitl ol Nob isht. Start point, the north oxtrenie of Somervilh' island, lies al»reast Li/.iinl point, '.*;} miles from it ; it is high, and ixild, with a deep l)ay elose eastward of it. OllfF point, 7 miles N. ;; K. from Wales point, tenninates in hi^h clifls. Immediatel} south of the point is a narrow ereek, which extends some distance inland in a north-west ilirecti(»n. Lizard point is a promiiuri'. point on the western shore, ll miles N.N. K. from Clifl point. There are sandy bays<lorie nordi and south of this point, extending back a considerable ilistance, ^Mvint; lo Lizard point the shape of a peninsula, and when lirst seen from the westward it api)ears to be an islainl. At 2.^ miles northward of Lizard i)oint there are some conspicuous red-brown earthy cliffs. Flat point lies .')] miles N. j K. from Liziird point. The shore between these points is wooded and comparatively low, and a similar conformation exists 1.^ miles muthwanl of Flat point. I'ortland point, about IS miles within the inlet, li«'s :\ miles North from Flat point, is high, bold, and nearly steep-to. Ramsden point, whicH divides Oltservatory inlet from I'ortland canal, lies 2] miles N.N.K. from I'ortland point. A dangerous cluster of rocks (awash and sunken) extenil a short distance south-east from Ramsdeu point. Steamer passage, eastward of Somerville island, has an average width of half a mile, with depths of :2S and -JU or more fathoms water throughout. Khutzeyniateen inlet is an unexamined arm, '> miles within Steamer passage. It is half a mile wide at its entrance, and takes an E.N.K. direction. Quinamass bay, on the eastern side of Steamer passage, abreast the north end of S(»merville island, is half a mile wide at its entrance, and takes an easterly direction. At low water it is almost comi>letely lilled by a s;iud-ilat, rendering the bay useless as an anchorage. NaSOga grulf, eastward of Mylor peninsula, extends in a north- easterly direction for 5 miles, is one mile wide, and terminates in comparatively high hind. Anchorage will be found near the head of Nasoga gulf, in JO to 12 fathoms, Siiud, in mid-channel, at 2 cables frt)m the north shore. Sec chart, No. 2,458. ■M PORTLANl INLET. [Chap. XV Mylor pt'iiiiiHiila in ii h\ti\i and comparatively narrow .strip of land on the east<irn Hide of Portland inlet, between Nanoj,'a axiW and Nans bay. A small inh't (l{anf,'»'r JHlet) Hew oil" its south extreme, and there the land is comparatively low (l.'id feet) ; but it rises liuickly to the hei^dit of I2,'.*<»U feet, and forms hififli, bold, precipitous sliores. Trefiisis point, the south jxtrenit! of tlie \)eninHtila, terminates in high white cliffs. NASS BAY, on the east shore, lies at the month of Nass river. It is 2 miles wide at its entrance, the points of which lie north and south of each other, and the bay preservi's this width in an easterly direction for Ji miles, where it divides, one branch taking a north- easterly direction to the mouth of Nass river, and the other a south-westerly direction, formii\g Icel)erg bay.* An extensive sand-flat occupies nearly the wlnde t)f the eastern portion of the i)ay at low water. Low point is wotMled, On the south shore (»f the bay, half a mile eastward of Low point, is Landslip mountain, 'i,(U2 feet high, with a bare siile facing the north-west. North point terminates in a bold cliff, and one mile eastward is Mission valles ; at one mile back from the coast is mount Tomlinson, a conspicuous mountain, li,3<S,') feet high. Through the vaUey a large btream runs, dividing near its mouth into two branches. Fort point, the north-west entrance point of Nass river, terminates in white cliffs. And on the eastern side of the Ijay, some low, dark islands (Mud islands) will be seen. K'aiCOlith, a tjiission station sittiated east of the stream at tho mouth of the valley, is fronted by a sand-flat (Canoe flat), which renders communication by boat, except at higl\ water, almost impossible. There are two saw mills here, one owned and worked by Indians, (lold is found here in small quantities, and also coal. The tenipeniture is very severe, the thermometer in some winters falling to from HP to oO" below xero for weeks in succession. Observation spot, at the east siile of mission valley, is situated in latitude 5-1" 59' 20' N., longitude 12'.)° 57 M' W. Anchorage, in fine weather, may be had ofT Kincolith, nearly in the middle of Nass bay, on the line joining tho mission station and Landslip mountain, in 10 fathoms, mud bottom, at about 8 cables from the north shore ; with the mission flagstaff seen in line with * iSr« Admiralty ))lu)i : — Nmu bay, No. 2,iUU ; scale, masS inchue. Chup. XV,] NASH BAY AND IllVKll. 507 tlie centre ol' MirtHiitii vulloy, beuriuj,' N. by K.. uiul Leiuliny point (Houth Hide of Nuss river) seen just open of Fort point (nortli-weat entrance of Nass rivtr), btuiring N.K. by E. .', K. Caution. — A stron^-^ ebb tiile will be felt in this i)o.sition,anil care must be exercised in taking,' up a berth, aw Canoe flat is very steep-to, and it is recommended to use the deep-sea lead in ajjproaching it. Tides. — It is hif,'li water, full and chanye, at Nass l)ay, at Ih. ^nn. ; sju'ings rise 17 to 2',) feet. ICEBERG BAY, the south-west arm of Xass bay, is ;\ miles long in a S.S.W. direction, and not less than 7 caideii wide ; the head of the bay, terminating in a low swampy Hat, froi>ted by a saml-tlat, is only ."? miles from the head of Nasoga gulf. At the entrance of Iceberg bay the depth of 10 fathonu, and less, will be found ; but as the heail of the bay is apjtroached the water will deepen to over 40 fathoms. Anchoragre may be obtained ai the entrance to Iceberg bay, in 7 to 8 fathoms, mud, with the north-west entrance point of Nass bay (Xorth point) seen in line witli the north-west entrance point of Iceberg bay (Double islet point) bearing N.W. by W. .} W. ; distant (5 cables from the latter. NASS RIVER Hows int(» the north-east corner of Nass bay, the mouth of the river being, however, obstructed by a siind-flat, which dries at low water, auvl extends towards Iceberg bay. Kii>ple tongue, the south-west extreme of this extensive Hat, lies 2}, cables North from Double islet point. Within the river, the navigation is dilhcult and dangerous, the channel at low water being b.irely availal)le for large canoes ; local steamers, however, from Victoria, drawing (5 feet water, venture up, though they frequently run aground ; it is recommtudeil not to attempt the river until the strength of the Hood tide has slackened. The channel is liable after freshets to change. Nass river, at its entrance abreast Fort point, is li miles wide, whence its direction is K.N.E. for 7 miles, and N.N.E. for 7 miles, to abreast the Nase vilhiges. The channel near the mouth of the river being tortuous, the distance l)y the channel from Fort point to the Nass villages is about I(] miles. The south, middle, and north >Ste chart, No. 2,rJo. hOR 1'OUTLaND inlkt. [Chap. XV. vilhipes are known, rcripwtivoiy, by thi- Uiiiiu's of Kit niin i ook, Kit liili kuni kii lUih, unci Kit it kaiizc The river i-ontiniicM in a north- eaHtorly direction for ,''> niihis beyond the h»\ver Nass vilhi^es, and there divides, oni' brancli takinj: a north-westerly direction. Kilawi'ih'iks, the head of canoe navij,'ation, is situated on the north- went branch 40 miles from the lower Nass vilh^es. Tides.-- The time of hi,!,'h water al the h>wer ?*'ass villa^'es is un- certain, depending api>an'ntly u[)on the fres!iets down tlie river. Tliere was no shick at higli water, the water In-yinuiny to fall im- mediately it has ceased to rise (August, IStiS). At low water there was slack for one hour and a half. In the month of August the flood stream was not felt al)ove the Middle bank, and from Indian report this is the case at all seasons. Ice. — The river is reportoil to freeze over down to its mouth during severe winters. Fish. — 'I'he ILuilican, from which the nutritious in\ is obtained, the principal suslenanct' of the Indians, are caught in great numbers during the spring, as also are salmon. For this purpose, nunu'rous Kshing weirs are erected along the banks of the river, especially on the south shore ; and about II) miles up, near Stony point, there i.s an establishment where the hsh are siilteil down and shipped to Victoria. OBSERVATORY INLET, northward of Nass bay, is called by the hi liaiis Kit sah wati ; in some parts the shores are low, ami wooded, the land rising at a few miles l)ack to 4,(MHi and r),(MH( feet high. The low wooiled shore has an undergrowth of thick moss, overlying rock, and saturated with moisture, which renders travelling cUmcult." Salmon cove (Kwinamelith) lies on the western sluu-e, 11) miles from liamsd«-n point and W.) miles from Wales point. Richard point, the north point of KaUnon cove, is a long, 'vooded, conspicuous projectivui. From its north-east e.xtreuje Ihi' land trends in a south-westerly direction, for i ] miles, to the heail of Salmon cove, which is barely 15 cables wide. A sjind-flat extends 2 cables from the south shurti at the entrunce to Salmon cove. * Set- ohi..4,. No. 2,45X. C.h-.m. XX.] NASS HTVKII.— OHSKRVATOIIV IXLKT. '»(>!• Anchora^'e wus ohtainod hj- Vuncouvor in Salmon cove " in .'51 and " :')5 fathoijis waicr, muddy and small stony bottom. The points <»f " the cove bore by compass N.N.E. and S. by E." Brooke island, '2| miles lon^r and half a mile broad at its northern end, is low and wooded. The south extrenu' of this island lies 4 miles northward of KiehartI point, and '» cables from the eastern shore. Several patches of rock, which uncover at low water, extend 5 cables northward from Hrooke island (liaehjukiyeht). Paddy passjifj^e is half a mile wide, bet\v»'en Brooke island and the eastern shore, but near its northern end it is bju-ely '1 cables wide; it is reported un.safe and should not be used. Frank jjoint, situated .') miles N. by W., from Hichard point, and 1| miles from ilie wesit'rn ehoi f Hrooke island, is low, and wooded. Xschwan is the name of a .salmon fishery which lies at the head r>f a small bay on the Mcsterii shore, I miles northward of Fnvnk point. Larcom island, situated nearly in mid-chainiel, at the mouth of Ilastin^'s arm, is about "» miles lonj,', N.X.W. and S.S.E., with an avei-a^'*' breadth of half a mile ; Us south extreme lyin*,' IJ cables N.W. from Brooke island. The island is tiat, wooded, and comi)arativ(dy low. At its sonth-wesi end, there is an extensive lujroon. The channtd westward of Larc<»m island is obstructed near the north eiul of that island by several islets :in<l rocks, and is only available for boats. Hastingrs arm i)asses eastward of liarcom island, and takes a a;»neral X.W. .', X. direc'ion fori miles, thence westward for about one mile, and N.W. by N. for '.• miU's, until it terminates at the head of the inlet. This branch of Observatory inlet is from oiu'-half (o one mih' wide, terminatinsi in a woodt'd swamp, fronted Ity a mud Mat, The water in Hastingrs arm is deej), and has no known anchon»|,'e ^'rotnul. If proeeedini,' into this chaimel, pass miil-channel betwc-en I'rooke and Larcom islatids, taking' care lu avoid the fold f^round which extends half a mile northward from the former. Alice arm, the eastern bratich of Observatory inlet, I'nun its jnncti(»n with Ha.stin.t,'sarm, runs in a north-easterly direction 1 1 miles. This arm is obstructjtd at its entrance by a snnill wooded islainl t^liidtliu island) which divides it into two channels '.\ cables wide. Srr cUiirt, No. 2,4 r>s. 510 monTLAND CANAL. [Chap. XV. i lil '■ A rock, which dries about ;') feet at low water, lieH U cubk'ri W'jst from the south end of Liddle islaml. A rock, with 10 feet on it, lies with the north end of IJddle island bearing S. 2U' E., dirttani nearly 2 cables. The channel betwe«'n thi.^ rock and Davies point has <I t'atiioniH in it, and is recituunended in ])r»'rerence to passing between the rock and I.iddle island. Alice rock, with 7 feet on it, lies southward of Hans point, with the north end «»f Liddle island bearing S. l\ W., distant 1^ miles. There is lUu^p water on either side of this rock, but vessels should pass eastward of it, the western extreme of Urooke island in liiu^ with the western extrenu- of Liddle island leading half a cable eastward. Perry bay, situated on the eastern slntre at the entrance to Alic»' arm, is 2^ cables wide, and takes a southerly direction for nearly one mile, with dejtths of 14 and IK fathoms, mud bottom, in mid-chanmd. Off its western entrance point lies a small islet (Sojjhy islet). .Vt the head of the bay there is a salmon fislu'ry (Muckshwanne). Tides. — It is high water, full antl change, in Observatory inlet at Ih. Tim, ; springs rise 2',) feet, neaps 12 feet. Abreast Xass bay, the ebb runs with great strength, the blue water being clearly defined when meeting the muddy watt-rs of th.o Nass river. The strength of the stream in Observat<.; y inlet dejjends upon the freshets caused by the melting snow. PORTLAND CANAL.~At about 20 miles from Wales point, an arm branches «! njilea N.W., wiln an average breadth of 1 \ miles. Here Pearse channel stretches S.W. From this the canal trends Northerly for about .'')5 miles to its termination. It possesses few and indift'erent anchorages. In i)lace8 the mountains rise almost perpendicularly above the high-water line to the height of t),(M)0 feet. The two rivers Bear and Salmon at the head of Portland canal are separated by a high ridge of bare mountains. Oii the east side of the valley of Hear river a mountain range (extends in an east aiul west directifm ; mount Disraeli, the highest [)eak of the range, being a snow-clad pinnacle, 7,(KM) feet high. The delta of the Hear and Salmon rivers consists of a mud Hat, which covt-rs at high water, and extends over one mile from the mouth of the former river. This deposit of mud is nearly steep-to, breaking down suddenly to no bottom at 40 fathoms. ik'e chart, No. 2,Ar>H. Chaj). XV.] DO(}PISH HAY.— LKADINO POINT. r.u During the month of August, a curn'ut of about l.V knots an hour has been observed, settinir down I'ortland canal, for 25 miles below the mouth of l?ear river. Timber, &C. — Pint^ ami cedar are the ))rinci|)al trees met with, th(> former tali, and almost l>are to the top, and frequently above 100 feet high. Cedars are found in many i)laces of great size, with bninches close to the ground. Maple trees are occasionally seen, being distingiiishe<; ]iy thc\r Hglir and varief,'ated tints of green. Yellow cypress is iilso met with, being distinguished from the i)ine by its leaf, convex on both sides, and by its peculiar odour. The wo(»(| of the yellow cypress is light, t<tU'.'h, and dur.ible. and useful for rei)airing .^r building boats. Dogrfish bay, situateil on the eastern shore, about ))\ miles north- westward of Uamsden point, isabout U miles wide, half a miledeej), and faces the south-west; it is, howev«'r, tilled by a ssmd tlat at low water, rendering it useless as an anchorage. Windy islet is small, and lies close to the shore at the nctrth entrance \>mnt of Dogfish bay. Tree point, on the western shore, 4.^ miles from Portland point is low, wooded, and conspicu(*us, with high land at about one mile south of it. Tree point reef extends half a mile in a northerly direction from Tree point, and is nearly steej)-to. Spit point, on the eastern shore, t> miles from Hanisden point, is the turning point into the northtirn reach. Between Spit i»oint and Doglish bay several small woodeil islets lie close to the eastern shore, and are connected with it at low water. A tongue of sand, which uncovers at low water, extemls li cables s(tuth-west from Sjjit point. Heef island, a small island lying on the western shore abrea.t Spit point, lies 'J:{ miles N.W. fntm Trt'e b'.ulf, and 1 [ miles W.S.'tV. from Spit i)oint. Two small bays, with sandy beaches, lie u.ider Ueef island, in which a boat may tind shelter. A reef with rocks awash at high water, and sunken rocks, extends 2 cables K.E. fnun Reef island. Leading* point, a high bold p(»int, on the sv«'Stern shore, lies 2^ miles north from Heef islaiul. Dickens i)o lit is on the eastern Bhore, 4 miles from Spit point, the coast between them having a considerable curvt* to the eastward. Sre chart. No. 'i^W. > ■)12 PORTLAND CAXAr,, [Chap. XV. > A flmall black rock, K ft-at above hif?h wator, li(^H close sonth of Dickens point, antl a le(lf,'e of rocks wliicii uncover, extends 2 cables from the point. Sandfly bay, situated on the wcbtern shore, abreast Dickens point, is half a mile wide, and three quarters of a mile deep in a north-west direction, t«'rminatini,' in a swam)* with streams in the north-west and north-east corners. At the norili i»oint of the l)ay, two small islets lie clos«' to the shore. Saridtly bay is nearly Idled up at low-water by a saml-flat, with deei) water close-to, and is therefore useless as an anchoniKe. Stoi)ford i)oint, Ixdd and consijicuons, lies on the eastern shore, '.\\ miles from Dickens point. Halibut bay on the western shore, 4 miles from Sandfly bay, is half a mile wide at its i ntrance, and e.xtentls back li miles in a N.W. by W. direction, luiviu},' an extensive swamp at its head, through which three larj^e streams flow. Off tlu' south ])oint of this bay lie a cluster of small black rocky islets. The anclu)ra^'e in Halibut bay is in mid-chanind, at '.\ cables within the entrance, in (I to 10 fatljoms, mud Imltoni. It is hiyh water, full and chanjje, at Oh. IV >m. ; sprinjjs rise ll).^ feet, neaps 1.') feet. Cross islet, a small wooded islet, connected at low water with the shore, lies close northward of Ilaliljut bay. .\ rude wooden crosa was found on this islet, ))laced there at some remote j)eriod, api)arently to mark a s^rave. Lo^an point lies on the eastern shore, .'JJ miles from Stopford point. At '^ miles south-east of Lofjan |)oint, is Dent mountain, .'>,0.'>7 feet hi^h. ( 'am]) p«»int, on the western shore, is the turning point of the northern arm, which abreast of that point changes in direction from North to W.N.W.: it is wooded, bold, and precipitous. Hattie island, situated n(*arly in mid-channel, abreast C'ani]) point, is 400 yards long north and south with some stunted brush growing upon it. .V ledge of rocks awash, and sunk(Oi rocks, extend 2 cables northwanl from Hattie inland. The water is deep on either side of the island, beyond the distance of 2 cables from it. but the channel wt'stward of the island is recommended. Fljirclay valley lies on the eastern shore, abreast Hattie island ; a large stream flows through it, and the neck of land sepaniting Portland canal and Salmon cove (Observatory iidet) is here about 4 miles across. ' I .<*■(- chfirt, No. 2,458. Ohaj). XV.] SANDFLY BAY. — TURN POINT. 513 I Landslip point lies on the eastern shore, 2 miles northward of Hattie ishmd. Three conrtpicuouH huidHlipH are seen on the moun- tains south of Landslip point. Biuft" point terminates in a high bold clifV, and lies on the eastern shore, 2 miles from Ijimdslip point. The channel abreast lUud' point is one mile wide. Breezy point, on the western shore, 4 miles from Camp point, is conspicuous, and the land recedes to the southward between Camp and Breezy points. Tombstone bay lies on the western shore, ;{ miles N.W. by N., from Breezy point. At its entrance, the bay is 3 cables wide, and takes a southerly directiim, narrowinj? rapidly, until it terminates at cme mile within the imtrance at th(^ mouth of a river. An extensive well -wooded valley lies at the head of the bay, and on the north side of the valley, a remarkable mountain, with a snow- clad summit of dome shape, rises to the height of {)J)0() feet. Trout are plentiful in the river flowing into this bay. Berries are found in abundance, especially the wild raspberry. Maple point lies on the eastern shore, '^ miles from Bluff point. Afaple trees grow upon this point, and when in leaf render it con- spicuous. Immediately northward of Maple point is a bay, with a large stream flowing into it, fronted by a sand-flat. Swamp point, a low, marshy, wooded point, through which a river flows, lies .'$ miles N.W. ^ W. from Maple point. A sandspit extends half a mile to the southward from Swamp point. Pirie point, situated 2 miles N.W. by W. from Swamp point, is high, bold and conspicuous. A sandspit extends 2 cables from the eastern shore midway between Swamp and Pirie points. White point lies on thci eastern shore, 4 miles from Pirie point. Turn point lies on the western shore, H miles from Tombstone bay and is high, boKl, and conspicuous. Steep point on the western shore, (5 miles from Turn point, is bold and steep-to. Two large streams flow into the sea, mid- way between Turn and Steep points. Foggy point lies on the western shore, t! miles N.W. .^ W. from Steep point. Hay islet, on the eastern shore abreast of Foggy point, is small and wootled, and lies one cable off a point which divides two sandy bays, be'ing connected with the point at low water. Gn'en islets are two small, wooded islets, on the eastern shore, 2 miles from Bay islet. Close northward of these islets there is a considerable Sfe obart, No. 2,458. so 11948 2K 514 POnTLAND CANAL. [Chiip. XV. tract of ('(unpariitivrly low liiml, thickly wooilcil, throiiK'li which a lurf,'c Htcimi llowrt. Slal) point, torminatiuf,' in a hi^'h, Hinooth, ulatc- coloured dill", licH on the wcwtcrn shore, 2 miles from Foj^^y point. Blue point, on th;' eastern whore, 5^, miles from Green islet, and 1 1 miles from Ciifl" point (on the western shore), terminates in hi,i,'h, bold cliffs, of purple blue colour, and basaltic forniation. Closo south of the point, an extensive wooded valley extenils to the north-east- ward, through which two lar<,'e streams How. A saiidapit extends off their mouths to the ilistaiice of 2 cables. (Uiff" jKunt terminates in high white cliffs, and is steep-to. Verdure point, <»n the western shore, lies 4 miles N.W. by N, from Clift' point. The majde trees growing ujxm this ])oint, when in leaf, render it conspicuous. Mid-way between Cliff and Verdure points, there is an extensive wooded valley, through which a large strt>am flows in a south- westerly direction. Close northward of Verdure point is a bay, with a C(msplcu(ms sandy beach at its head. Landslip point, one mile N.W. by N. from Verdure i)oint, is conspicuous, it haviixg a high landslip over it. Round point is the turning point, on the eastern shore, into the northern and last ntach of Portland canal. With the exception of a small bay, which dries throughout at low water, tht* eastern shore northward of Blue point, for (I miles, is high, bold, and almost inacessible. The northern extreme of Hound point lies G miles from IMne point. Marmot river, on the tastern shore, 2^ miles from the mouth of Bear river, flows through an extensive valley which lies in an easterly direction. A sandspit extends S cables off the mouth of Marmot river, and is steep-to. At the head of the valley, a mountain range with three conspicuous peaks, 4,<)(K) to .'i.tKH) feet high, extends in a north-west and south-east direction. Salmon river, on the western shore, Ik miles from Bear river, is separated from that river by the Reverdy Johnson mountains, a range of bare mountains 4,0{K) to SjtHK) feet high. It is a stream of considerable size, and the valley through which it flows is half a mile wide at its mouth, the river then takes a north-westerly Sfr chart, No..2.4ri8. Clmi). XV.] ULUK POINT— OBSERVATION SPOT. .■(i:. ilin^ction, widening to ono and 2 miles, and Ih Hanked hy hi^h mountains. Bear river flows throui^h an extensive woodt'il flat, at the head of the Portland canal, and dividus near its month into sfVtTal streams, from which, diirini? the summer m(»nths, wlun the snow is meltinpr, a considerable body of water passes <tut into tln' inlet. The valley throufjh which this river Hows extends 10 miles in a northerly direction from the month of hear rivtr. ami is thickly wooded, and Hanked by the Gladstone mountains, 4,.S(K) feet hi^di ; it terminates at the foot of the Disraeli mountains, a rauf,'e which extends in an east and west direction. The Hear ami Salmon rivers have a mud flat extending,' across their mouths, rendering' communication, even by canoes, dillicult at low water. Commencing at about '.) cables south of Salmon river Vidley, this deposit of mud extemls across the canal in a north- (^asteiiy tlirection, passini? over (»ne mile from the mouth of liear river. The edge of the bank is steep, breaking down suddenly to 24 fathoms. Anchoragre may be obtained in 2o to iW fathoms, soft mud, about 1| cables below tlu* Hear river Hats on the eastern sidt' ; the holding ground is gooil, but the anchorage is unprotected, being exposed to the southerly winthi coming up the canal and the northerly winds that sweep down the Bear river valley. Tides. — It is high water, full and change, at the head of Port- land canal at Ih. iiOm. ; springs rise from 2'i to 27 feet, and occasionally 30 feet, neaps 15 to 20 fe(!t. In August it was noticed that the night tides rose considerably higher than the day tides. Observation spot, at the wooded high-water mark of the point near the centre of the month of Hear river, was found, by observations, to be situated in latitude '»')' '»,'>' \',V N., longitude 129^^ 5'.)' 17" W. See chart, Nu. 2,408. SO 11V48 2K2 r.ic CHAPTER XVI. QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS. Variation, i>6° Kawt in 1898. QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS, consisting of throe principal islands, may be regarded as a partly submerged moJintain range, — a line drawn from the southern extrniiity of the islands to their north-western jwint, representing its axis, — which, together with several smaller islands, forms a compact archipelago, situated between the parallels of ')!" 50' and 54° 1.5' N., and the meridians i:W54'and 1:5:?° 10' W.* The geneml character of these islands is mountainous and heavily timbered, and the mining resources are very extensive. The chief item of trade is in fur seals. The channels between the main islands are named Houston Stewart and Skidegate, the former or southern channel separating Prevost and Moresby islands ; and the latter, or northern, Moresby and Graham islands. PREVOST ISLAND, the southernmost island of the group, ia about 12^ miles long north and south, with a breadth of 8i miles. The land gradually rises northward from cape St. James (its south point) till near Houston Stewart channel, where it has in places an elevation of about 2,000 feet, which heights, if the weather is clear, will be the tirst land seen on approaching (Jueen Charlotte islands from the southward. The east coast «)f Prevost island is bold, and in many places bordered by steep cliffs. This part of the coast, between cape St. James and East point, a distance of 12 miles, is indented by two bays or inlets, the southern apparently inconsiderable, while Luxana bay, the northern, is probably .'J or 4 miles in depth. From East point the shore trends north-westward G or 7 miles to Moore head, * Si-f Admiralty charts : — Queen Charlutto islands, No. 2,4:iO ; Hcale, m = UlS of an inch. AUo. Tape Caution to Port Simpson No. \,V'i:t, a and b ; soale, m = Ul'S of an inch. Chap. XVI.] PRKVOST laLAM).— DANCKIl R0CK8. 517 thfi south-eiiBt entriince point of Hojistoii Ste>\'art channel. Tht* nhore is mwch broken, heinjf penetrated by inlet« which extend back among the hitrh hillH. Several Hniall IslandH lie of!' it, one of which is bold, densely covered with trees, and has a liei>?ht of !.'><• feet. The western sidf of Prevost island, between cape St. James and the western entranet- of Hoiistnii Stewart chaiuu-l, for about 12 rnihs is apparently bold, but it is less known than the opposite side. The land near cape St. James is not so thickly wooded as that to the northward. Oape St. James, so named by Captain Dix<m wh«» ronnded the cape on St. James' day, 17H7, in the Qnirn C/itiriofh; appears to be the southern extremity of an island one mile in <liameter, the narrow channel separating it from I'revost island running W.S.W. and K.N.E. The southern point of cape St. James is a vertical cliff about the same height as the larger ot the islets lying uH" it (ISO feet). The cape slopes gradually from a summit 1,()(H> feet high to the sea. Cape St. James is situated in latitude it[ ^A' N., longitude 131° 2' W. Kerouart islets received their name from I^ Perouse, and consists of a chain of rocky islets and rocks which extend from caj>e St. James iH miles in a south-easterly direction, corresponding with that of the mountain axis of tlu' ij;roup. A sunken ledge is rejwrted to extend 1^ miles further in the same direct i<tn. As seen at a distance of some miles to tin north-east, Kerouart isleta appear to form three groups, the first ij'ing close to cape St. James, consisting of two large rocks (Hummock islets) ISO feet high, the second of one large and several smaller rocks, and the third and further southward, of two or three rocks of 1(M> feet in height, and a number of lesser ones. These islets are remarkable, standing boldly up with rounded tops, and vertical cliffs on all sides; the smaller rocks having the sjime pillar-like form so frequently found where a rocky coast is exposed to the full sweep of a great ocean. They serve as secure breeding places for innumerable galls, puffins, and other sea birds. Dangrex* rooks. — About '^ miles northward of the eastern entrance to Houston Stewart channel, and at about 2 miles ofT the low and densely wooded point between the oast entrance of Houston Stewart See chwcU, Noe. l,923i!>, 2,i30. 518 t^l KKN CIIAKLOT'IK ISLANDS. [Chiip. XVI. chuimcl ;iii<t ('iir|»«'ii(»'r hiiy, in ;i \vi\m' of ntckn, lyiiiK ii littU- ,il»n\»- WiiltT, <»n wliicli tin" Ht'u bniaks violi'iitly, iiiul for a conBi(l«'nil>l»' (liHtancc iinmnd ; other rocks vmcirclo thcw, but thoy uro undrr wutor. Approiicliinf,' IlouHtoii Stt*wart chamiol from the northward, th»'Ho rockH nhoiiid bo j^ivi'ii a widu berth. HOUSTON STEWART CHANNEL treiulH fn.m Mcx.re h.-ad W.S.W for 21, Jiiih'S to Hornby point, tlivnce S.S.W. for :'. milert to tlie entrance from the Pacific ocean. Oppowite the bend formed by Hornby point \n Hone liarbour. fiOiiHcoone, at th«' wcHt entrance of the channel and juHt witiiin Anthony island, is said to be a «Jo<l harbour, similar to l?ose harl)our. The country rouml this locality is mountainous, mostly rising' steeply from the coast, and thickly wooded ; the 'rees, however, are stunted and show much dead wood, the roi>ts holding,' to the ahnost naked rock. There is no arable land, and the soil is poor. Hea otters are numerous.* Entering: from the Eastward. — This t'utrance may l)e known by its bold south point, and the round thickly wooded islet. Atal)out 4 miles from the entrance there are i)() fathonts water, and the depth gradually shoals to 20 fathoms to within one mile of it; from this distance ofl", the soundings are very irrefjular, varying? from lit* t(» 7 fatlKMus over a series of rid},'es or bars of rock, sand, shell, aJid mud. In the t'utrance, which is about one mile wide, l)etween M<»ore head and Lani,'ford point there are 20 lathoms water, with u rocky bottom. Raspberry cove.— Within Forsyth point, at one mile wes'waril of Lanj,'ford jjoint on the northern side, is a snuir bay, bordered by a Biuuly beach, in which, at about two-thirds of a mile from Forsyth point, and at one-tJiird of u mile from the beach, is a secure and cimveniont anchora>,'e in I (J fathoms. In the north-west part of the bay is Hasi)bcrry cove, into which a stream of wau r Hows. Rock. — At a quarter of a mile westward of Forsyth point, and a little to the northward of the lin«' of the direction of the channel, is a rocky patch with kelp on it which dries at low-water si)rinps; do not therefore, haul to the northward too soim after entering. On the southern side of the channel are some small wooded islands, here aiul there fringed with outlyinjir patchew of kelp, which latter should always l)e avoided. * See Admiralty plaiiti of ports, ius. in Queen Charlotte iBlands, No. 2,168. t ('Iiii|i. XVI.] HUL'STON STKWAliT ClIANNKL. r)l!> Trovan rook Ihh ]\ mil-s W.S.W. frnm KnrnMli pniiit. Hourly inid-cliiinncl, iunl contnictiii^' tin* piissii^M- on its iiMrth<>ni riitli* to riillnr l»'rtH fluin half ii mili- ; patclu'K of kt'l|> iiml KlUn inliintl, the lar^'i'Mt of the inlaiMls liclon- iiiciitioiicil, rt-ilticc thf chaiiiiol on tlu' Houthorn Hide of it to ahoiit onr calilc in width. Tnvan roi-k iH covtTPd at high watur ; rioHo to tlie n«»rth hitU- of it thf depth in 7 fat horns. Anohoragre. — Then' is a good anchor.igc t«» the t-astward of Klhai inhuid, ill a bay formed by tiic inlaml andarot-ky patch which covorn at iialf tide, at nearly half a iniU; eastward of the inland. The anchorage! iti in 14 fathouiH, mud, and the tidal stream ia not fult. Quadra rooks conHi^t of a jtateh 120 yards long in a N.N.E. and S.S.W. direction, and (lO yardu wide, tlie two shoalewt HpotH ])oing at eitlior extnMno with (I fcn-t water on them, 12 to 14 feet in other placoH, and .") to ti fathcmis around. The patch can he sc^en at high water, and is marked at times during slack watt-r by kelp ; with the tithil stream running it is distinguished by overfalls and tide ripH. From tlu' west extreme of tlu^ rocks, Hornby point bears H. ^ K. r)J cables, and south extreme of H(»ss island VV. by H. i S, The spring rise, in May, was observed to be 1(1 feet. r Rose harbour. — This secure and capac-ioiis harl»onr on the nortii side of Houston Stewart eliannel. takes a N.X.W. direction between Catherine point on the west and Ross island on the east, for ',) miles from its junction with the channel. For the first 2 miles the avcigo breadth of the harbour is three-(juarters of a mile, th»' western shore rising boldly with deep water close-to ; the eastern shon^ although high, hiis kelp along it, with shoal water, extending for one to 2i cables. The harbour then contracts to half a mile in width between two low points forming its head, beyond which is a basin, about 2 miles in circumference, filh-d with rocks and wooded islotB, having on its western side Sedmond river, a small stream abounding in the season with geese antl ducks. The land on its north and wep'> sides is high and mountainous, whilst that on its eastern side is low. This basin is separated from South cove in Carpenter bay by a narrow neck of low wooded land. Pincher rocks lie nearly 2 cables S. by E. from the east entrance point of the basin. .Sir churl. Ku. '2,llM. p :>2u gUEEN CHAllLOTTK ISLANDS. [Ch»V. XVI Entering: fyom westward. — rhc .somlifin arm nf iiDUrttou StPWiirt channol \h about 'A miloH l»n»>j, aiul tiirt't'-iiiiaricrrt of a mile wide, with Hevonil Hiiiall islands (Ofordon ish's) at its sonthorn entrance. The shoreM of both sides are bold and d«'nsely \vood«'d. Those from the soTithward bound in by this entrsmce, when abreaHt cape St. .liimes, shoidd chw the hind to IJj ndles, and after coasting it for about 12 miles, the entrance will oi)en. Two remarkable white stripes down the mountains, tl or 7 miles to the north-west- ward, are excellent landmarks. After passing at a convenient distance to the southward of Anthony island, the larj^'est and outer island at tlie entrance, which is '.'(Ml feet high, with whitt^ clill's (of! the southern end of which an extensive ledffe of rocks i)rojects 1 cables in a so>ith-west direction), tin* channtd will show itself. Flat rock. ')() feet hi^h, and resembliuf,' a haystack, lies much nearer the western than (he eastern side, and which should be kei)t on the ])ort haiul, will l)e a jjood <j:uide. There is an Indian villaj,'e known as Ninstints, (tf the Skanjxoi iril»e, on the inner side of Anthony island ; the natives are very wild, and persons visiting' or trndin^f with them should be on thi'ir {,'»»H"il- MORESBY ISLAND, the centn> of the three principal islaiuls of the Queen (Charlotte j^rnup, is 1'2 miles lon^', but explorations on its east coast have result«'d (l»y tracing,' out of the channels), in leaving; it a mere skeleton, in i»laees varying' from only I .[, to '2 miles in breadth. The highest aiul most rugge<l part of the island is i>robal)ly in about latitude .'i'i" '.W, where nuiny peaks bear patches of perennial BDow, and attain altitudes of over r),(KK) fe(>t. Also on Louise island, and about the head of C'umshewa, the land is very ruj;>,'ed, with many peaks of over .'5,(M)(» and l,(H)0 fei't in hei>,'ht.' Carpenter bay, the southernmost l)ay on the east side of Moresby island, is between Iron point on its north-western, and Islet point on its south-eastern side, a little over '2 miles wide, extendijig westward about .') miles. It is not ([uite land-locked, but is sheltt-red from the only direction (>th«'rwise (exposed, by a little rocky ri-ef which extends out fnun its east side. On its south side an* two small bays, the western of whi( h, .South cove, approaches near to the head of Rose harbour. At its head is good anchorage for a snuill vessel in from l! to 10 fathoms. CariK'nter bay ends westward in a narrow arm, which receives two HtreHins. It resembles the liead of Hose harbour in l)eing tilled with • .*»■ oh»rt«. Now. 1 ,W2;JA, a,43(). Chap. XVI.] MOUIvSHy island.— SKlXCllTjiK ini.kt. 521 smitll rocky iHlaiitls, aixl na-k.s, luakiuu •' uuHal'c tor ivni a .small craft. TIm- general character of the country surrounding,' the haj is like that of Houston Stowart ciiannt 1. In -I-'mv there were many Heuls in tlie bay. ColliSOn bay, situaiud i)et\veen Cariienicr lta,\ .ml Skincuttle inlet, is alioul 1;} miles wide between UliilV point, its south-east point uf entrance, iiiid th(> north-west )ioiiit, aiul has a prnl)al)le depth of 2 miles. It riins up into a narrow arm, whicli has not been examined. Seveml small Islands and rocks lie oil" its entrance, and it iloeg not appear to bo werviceablu aH a harbour. Gull rock, 10 feet hi>,'h, bears X.K. i)y H. distant 1", miles from l)elu;,'e ))(»int, and is tliree-(juarters of u mile olV Moresby island, between Colliso', l»ay and Skincuttle i ilet. Inner Low rock lies 8.S.K. fnun (full ;ock, and midway l)etW(cn it and Ihf slior-e. SKINCUTTLE INLET is .'i!^, miles tlei-p in a south-west direc- tion, with a width (d' I miles Ixtween Delup- point on the south and (Smnite point on the north side of it-* entrance. Tin' niu'th side of the inlet is formed by Hurnaby island, and from the north-west aiifjle lbirnal>y strait luns northward to Juan I'eri'/ sound, and separates Hnrnal)V island from tin- east shore (d" Moresby isiaiul. 'I'he siiores of Skincuttle inlet resemble those of other partsof the islands already described. Near tin' north-west an^'b' of tlie inlet the mountains riHe Htet^ply to a hei^dit of ;{,IHH> feet t>r more." The entnince to Skincuttle inlet is south of u chain of islands, called the ('o|tpt(r islands, lyiiij,' K.N.K. ami ^V.S.W. It is \^ mib'H wide, but should Id- used with caution as there is reason i<» believe that a rock, s(unetinies bare, lies in it. The passaj,'o to the north of the Coi)per islands is contracted, and with one or more rockri in itH narrowest part. Granite point is a rather remarkablt^ whitish i-ra^', joined to the main shore iiy a narrow neck of low land. Bolkus islands, live in number, wiih many small rocks and reefs, form a chain about U miles long, lyinK east and west in the centre of Skincuttl" inb't. The land is low, and on the western and hirt?«'st of the islands the soil appears to Ix good, though now covered with dense forest. *.<>, Ailinindly iiIhii :—Skiiioiiill(! iiiltti uii shuvt uf I'urlit in tjuouti tJbarlotlc ifilandii. .No. -Mt>H ; uailo, m =x U'6 of un inch. <^UKK.\ ( HAULwTTK ISLANDS, [Chap. XVI. A rock iiwiiHli iit lii;.,'h watur lieH midway iM'tw^en tin- Itolkns islainiM and tim Houth slior(',;in(l at equal clistanceH from llu' t-ntrancoH III Flarrict harbour and HuHton iidet. HuHh rock JHrtituatwl oiiocal)le N.W. from tlu! cast entrance point of Uuston inlet, anil IS caMes W. ] S. from it in Low lilack rock. Harriet harbour is 2 miles westward from tiie nouth »niri\iu;e poini ( I)e!u{,'e point), and e.xtendH nouthward one mile. It Hhov.id be entered by the channel on the went side of Harriet inland, which lies at its entrance, aiul a vessel should be kept near th»^ west sifie of the channel (as sevenil small rocks covered at hi«h wau*r lie aloii^' Harriet island), and run some distance beyond the inner end of the island before anchoring,', to avoid the shoal bunk which lies off itn point. The depth is about 8 fathoms, with f^'ood holding' ground, and the harbour is well sheltered from most directions, though subject to ht-avy stjualls from the valley at its head when a southerly t'ale is blowing. Huston inlet, l.\ miles west of Harriet harbour, it a wide inlet whicii runs south-eastward about 1 miles, and then turns to thi' woBt, in which direction its e.xtret-iiiy was not visited, but it approaches tlie western side of Moresby island to within about I}, miles. Tangrle OOVe. — At the western enil of Skincuttle inlet are thre indentations of the coast, of which tin- southern istieor^^c harbour. The Mortherji, lyint' at the eniraiute of Ibirniiby strait, is Tan^'le cove, a well sheltered anchorage for a small vessel, hut a shoal, the extent of whicli is unknown, lies ofV its entrance. The I'Utrance is l)etween a snudl island at its south side, and two other litlh> ish'ts to the north, and in it is a rock which uncov(frHat low water. The mountains at the head of Tangle cove are steep, and probably reach li.tMM) feet in height ; part of their upper Hlop«'s are bare nl trees, l)ut apparently covered with moss, where not compo8e<l of rock. North side. — On the south sliore of Uurnai)' island Ih a bay, with st'veral small islamls across the mouth of I, which may be a good harbotir, tmt it has not benn examined. Firther ciwt, in the vicinity of ua abandoned copper mine, are lilue Jay and Kingiisiier covas. Burnaby strait, b«'tween iLe west shore of Ihiraaby igland and MuruBby ittlund, ib D mileH iu length between 8kiucuttle inlet and Ste uhurt, No. 2,IW. ('Iiii|.. XVI.] SKINCUTTl.K INLKT. — ItrUNAHY JSTIt.VlT. 523 .luiiii I'oroz houikI, tin- suutlicni ixirtioii lor tin- (listamc ol abniit 4 wuU'.H lufiiim' narrow, Imt ;,Miniii!,' at (lit- iiortln-ni t'lid an avofii;-/*' width of l,j miles. All pai-tHo. r.iiii)al>y strait nuist he navi^'iiteil with f^reat caution, as then- an- many rocks, ami a larj^f jiortion ol' them art" covered at hijjh water, Dolomit*' narrows, at 2}, sniles north of the southern entrance, are not more than a ipiarterof a milo wi(i;', and here the i-liannel is crooke<l, and olistructed by rocks and shoalH, having' fr(»m ti to S IVel at low water. The tidal streams, however, are not strong', hut it cannot he recommei:<led as a passsiK*' for any cmft liirj^er than a i)oat or canoe. .JttHt south of Dolomite luirrows, from the west side of the strait, ojtenH Jiajr harhour, expanding' within to a l>asin nearly one mile in diameter. The Twins, nearly al>reast of Dolomite narrows, on Hurnaliy islaml, are two consi)ieu«)us mc.intains estimati'd at l,.'i(K) feet in height. Island hay, at I.^ miles North of the narrows, e.xtonds westward, and is '2 miles deep. It was so named from the inindter of small islands in it, ahoiit 17, and is probably too rocky for a siife harbour. Skaat harbour, at the north end of Hnrni> by strait, is a bay 2] miles wide, with a depth of about ."5 miles. Watiderer island and several MMialler islets lie oil the entrance. The harlxuir turns into a narrow inlet in its u|)per part, and terminates amon^'hi^^di UKUintains forming a portion of the axial chain of the islands. Skaat harbour has not been sounded or carefully examined, but from the character of itH shores it wouhi be likely to afford ;,'ood ancliora^'e, t-specially wenf- wanl of Wandei-er island, and if so, it is the bi^st for lar;,M' vet;sels in this vicitnty. The harbour will probably lie fotmd deejteHt on the Wanden-r island side, as there is an extonsiv-! lield of kelp oil' the opposite s lore. All Alon*' stone and Monument roek fortn ^,'ood marks to the northern »Mitran«e of lUirnaby strait, near whicdi lies the entrance to the harbour. Tlu' entrance to Skaat harbour on the southern side of \\'ander»'r island is very narrow ; at tiie aii^de formed between it and the shore of Hurnaby strait are two small coves alfordiuK' anchora^'e for a small vessel, but with wide tiilal flats at their heail, whicli a short distance beyond low water-mark fall away rapidly into deep wutttr. Limestone rook in a dangerous reel, dry only at low waier, but not ■ Atensive, ihouyh a second rock, also only dry at U>w water, lies a S-e uhartK, Nuti. 1. 9286, .' 4'M. 521 gi'KKN CMAIMiOTTK ISLAN'DS. [Chap. XVI, short difltanco Huuth-eaHt of it. The eastern point of Wanderer islnnd, in line with that of Centre irtlaiitl, leatJH clear of Umentone rock, one milo to the Houthwanl of the second rock. Huxley island, at the nortlieni entrance of i^urnaby Htrait, is nearly 2 miles Innj,' north and south, and iibout 1} miles l)road ; it is bold and remarkal)l(\ rising' rapidly from the beach to a heigh* of 1 ,r>tM> feet, Abn'ast the north-west point of the island, in mid-channel, a cast of 70 fathoms w ah obtained, with a fine sandy bottom. Burnaby island. — The north shore of Bnrnaby island, 5^ miles in length N.K. and H.W., is nearly straight on the whole, though with a few sliallow bays, oin^ of which is called Section cove. Alder island lies about th«' centre of this stretch of coast ; it is about half a mile in diameter, nearly Hat, with j)robably a gooil anchorage behind it, which should be approachetl from the north-west, as Saw reef runs out from I lie shore of Huriiaby island to the eastward, and this part of the coast is broken and rocky, with large fields of kelp extending from it. The hills on the north side of Htirnaby island are estimated at ;J(Mt to'MH) feet in height. From Scudder point, the north-east point of Hurnaby islan<l, the east side of the island tn-Jids southward, allowing the outer of the Cttpper islands to be seen. A considerable width of low land stn-tches back from Scudder point, coveretl with an open growth of large but gnarled spruces. Little beaelus of coarse gravel fill the spaces between the low shattered rock masses, apparently caused by the action of a heavy surf. JUAN PEREZ SOUND has at its eairance, lietween the north of l?urnal)y lslan<l and Kamsay island, a width of K miles. The s(umd e.vtends westward, a number of sinaller inlets ami bays branching oil' from it, and is continued in a more northerly direction by Darwin sonnd, by which it communicates vvith ilie np})er ends of the long iidets which extend westward fror.i La.skeek bay. From th»' centre of a line joining the outer entrance points to the southern entrance of Darwin sound, .hum Perez sound is liU miles in length. On its south-western side are Werner bay, Hutton inlet, and De la Beche inlet, which terminate in narrow channels or fiords, extending among the axial mountains of Moresby island, and which have not been examined to their heads. From Werner bay two small inlets branch. Hutton inlet appears to be about W miles lung ; U \ See oharto, Nun. l,{V2nb, 2,iSli. Chiip. XVI. ] .H'AX PKHKZ mH^Xn. ..','.> De la Hooho noarly tJ niilos, with a low valley, hiMiuncil in l>y hills oil I'ither sidr rniinii)^ north-west wan! from lis oxirt'iiiity. None of these openiii^'H seem to he well a<la|tte(l tor harhoms, as the shores are bold and rocky, seldoiu showinj? lu-aehes, atul the water to all appearances too deep for anchonijife. Bisohoff islands, lyinj,' i" t,'>«' north-west pa»t of .Iiian Peiez sounil oil' the south side of liVell island, an- low, luil densely wooded. Tiiere is sheltered anehoraj,'*' for small craft between the tvo larger inlandH, but it nuist be entered from the weslwani, and with nnieh caution, <»wini,' to the number of rocks and siinki-n reefs whit.'h surround it. Sedgwick bay, alxMit :\ miles deep, on the so\i(li shore of Lyall island, is oo much exposed for a harlMHir, as southerly winds di-aw dm'ctly u]) .luan IVrez sound. Ramsay, Murohlsoc, and Faraday islands are the lari^'est of a vfnnip of islands forming' the north-easi side of .luan Perez Hounil. liainsay island is 2] miles in len^'th east and west, IniH bold hills lining in the centre, and is densely wooded, lis south shore is hii^'h, with some rocky el ill's ; two small islets lie olf the north-east side, which is ru^rj^red and composed of solid nxrk. The north-west shore ban Heveml coves, but none suited for ancbormfe. Murchison island is '.*,', utiles Ion;,' ; and Faraday island nearly 2 miles ; both are low. Between Ramsay and Murchison islands is a small f^roup eoin})osed of H«>t HpriuK, HouHe, ami a few snuiller islets and rocks. On the south side of Hot SpriuK island is the spring from which it has its name. Its situation is eisily reeofritised by a patch id' ^reeii nn)ssy sward which can be seen from a consi<lerable distance ; sti'am also >?enerally lutvers over it. The t«'mperaiure is so hi>.'li that the hand can scarcely bear it with comfort. The water has a slij,'ht smell of sulphuretted hyd^o^'en, and a barely perceptible siiline taste. The Indians batlw in a nalunil potd in which the waters of onu of the streams cutlect. Between Hot Sprinj,' and Hous«' islands is n yood anchoniKc for small craft, shelt(*red on idl sides but the north. See uhwrtH, Noh. 1.92!)//, 2,430. 52t; <^ri':i;\ ciiAiniOTTK islands, [('hup. XVI Tar islands.— Kxictiiliiif,' nnrtliwanl Iroin tin- end of MurchiHon 'iHliind Ih ii cliiiiii of Hinall iHliiiidK iibout I niil(!s lon^, iiiirai'd the Tiir isliiDdH, iiH the IndiiiitH rc|>(>rt tli:it on oik* of tliciu hitiiininoiis rnutUT \h fo!iiid, <»o/,inf.j out jiinoii),' the slom-s on Uk; lifacli. Aj,'j^'I(»n»«'riito island, llic sonf ln'rninosl, lias a]t|»an'ntly liccn hurnt over, and iu covi'i'cd with Htandiii;,' dead trees. 'JMnw isiaiidH are oidy approxi- mattdy piaeiul <»n the chart. Nortliwinl of th«'ni lies a sin^fie h)W island with a few trees on it, nanie(l 'i'lil't islainl. Kocks dry at h»w water lie hut wocn Karaduy and Min-idiison islandH, and tln'r»* are several small rooky islets and low-water ro(;ks in th«' vieinily of Hoi Sprinjr and House islands. Entering: Juan Perez sound. — Tiioso «'nterin);' the sound had hetter do so to the southward of lianisay island, till the narrower (diannels have heen surveyed. No hottoni v as reached with 1)1 fathoms of line in the centre of tlu! sound .s(Mitl, of Ramsay island, nor at ahout one mile south-east of the extremity o*' IVischoll' island. The water is apparently deep througho\it, hut it has not heen soiindtul. i t LYELL ISLAND, ahoui IT) miles in diameter east and \V(!Ht, and t) miles north and south, is separated from iMoreshy island hy /Jarwin sound. The island is comi)osed of hilly land, mostly riHin>< at once from tin* shore to hei},dds of IXM) to DIM) feot, and attaining towardH the centre of the island a hei>,'ht prohahly exceeding I,IKM( f(»et. It is densely wooded, and on thu low land has some fine timher. The east coast has not heen surveyerl. A tli inlet, on the north sido (d' Lyell island, has not heen (examined ; it is ahout ',) miles deep, with two main arms, and does n«»t appear to he a ^(ood harhour. Halibut bank.--.\hout '.\ to 4 miles K.N.K. fn»m tln( north-east point (d' Lyell island is Halihut hank, with 'i!? fathoms watiM* on it. DARWIN SOUND lies hetwmin I.ycdl island and the west shore of Moreshy island ami from its Hotuhern entranc«» to White point is 12 miles in len»,'th N.W. and S.K. ; in width it is irroj,Milar, hut is a tine navif/ahle (diannel. In the south (tntranci; no hot torn was found at HI fathoms. When enterinj^ from the southward, Hhuttle island appears to he nearly round. The channid on itH eiisti^rn side should he fcdiowed, as this seems to he quit<« free fnim inipedimentH. AhreaHt the north end of Shuttle island in this clumnel u cast of IK fathoms wiw ohtained. One mile hi^yond thiH Utte ohartii, Nuh. I,i)2»<*, U,4SU. C])i\]). XVI.] I.YKIJ. ISI.ANIi.— KCHO HARnoiTU. '»'}' point, mill in inid-cluiniuil, in ii low rock which is not readily Hcon, with a Hccond, uiicov«'r«'d only at low water, a nhoi-t dirttancj* to the north of it. Tidal streams. — The Hood Htrcam HetH u|) Darwin hoiuuI from th«( southward into thct varir)UH inhitn, and then caHtward to the open Hea a<.'ain l>y KicdiardHon and l<o^an iidetn. The clih in like manner dniWH throu(;h from end to end in the opposite dire(;tion. TIm> tidal stream runs at the rate (»f 'i knots at. the strongest. Blgrsby Inlet. — Tin- solllll-W(^st side of |)arwin sound for .'» n ilcs from the south entrance is rocky and broken, with se\»>ral coves and iidets. At that flislance is |{if,'sl)y inlet, extending 'i\ miles in a west(M'ly dirt>ction. It is a j,'loomy chasm, scarcely half a mile in width, and surroundetl hy mountains iirohaldy as hi^li as any in the islands. These rise steeply from the water, siunetinu's attaining in 'he first instance a hei;,dit of :5,(KJ0 feet, and are in jdaces nearly jterpendicular, hut are mostly well wooded. Kurllur hack, especially in the southward and westward, massive summits of bare ifranite rise to ii heif,'ht of -^IKKMo r>,0(M( feet with their (,'(»r>,'es tilled with drifted snow li(dds. The inlet is almt)st void of anythiii),' like a beach. Shuttle island, thoM>,di low, is rocky. The channel lo the west of it is prol)ably deep eiioiii,'li for vessels of any class, init should n<»l be used until surveyed. There is a rock, covered at hij,di water, on the wi'st Hid(! of its northern entrance. ECHO HARBOUR.—At l.[, miles northward of Shuttle island, and opposite the inner end of Richardson inlet, is Kcho harbour. The paHsa;j^e into the harbour runs .southward about one mile, and in surrounded by hi^li hills which, towards its heail, rise lo ru^'^'cd mountains. The outi^* part of the entrance has a ilepth of lU fathoms in it, the sides then approach, leavin;,' a channel scarcely !!<>(( yards wide but ween abrupt rocky shores. In the harbour proper the depth is <'verywhere about 1.') fathoms, decroasinK ^'radually towards the head for a short distance, and th«*n running' steeply up to a Hat which is partly dry at low water, and above hiKh-water mark forms a narrow j^raHsy beach. The bottom iH soft mud, and Dxcidlent iioMinj,' ground. A v«Ty narrow piiHsaK« IouUh westward fromthi' bottom of the harbour into a secluded IniHiu, tire obortM, Nun. I,tf2:i//, 2,43U. 528 • JUKRN CirARLOTTK ISLANDS. [f'ha|». XVT. scarcely II qnartor of a milo in diainotcr, wliicli, with the exception of a channel in tlif niiiMle, is nearly dry at low water. Into its head fhtwrt a lar^'*' Itrook, coming from the mountainH to the Houth- woBtward. Klun kWOi bay.— At 2 milcH went of the entrance to Kcho harhour, tin" short' line falls back in Klun kwoi bay. The baj runs n|) in several arms, which have not been carefully examined, among the bases of ruj,'j,'ed snow-clad mountains, which rise steeply from the sh<»res, or at the sides of the valleys, by which the heads of the inlets are contimKMl inland. The hi<,'hest peaks aiv probably r>,()(K)feet or more in altitude. The moinitains of Moresby islanil ap|)ear to culminate here, and are n(»l such a ]trominent feature further .southward. To this i)art of the r.inj.'e IVrez's nann' of Si»?rr.i tie San (,'liristoval may be applied witli the j,'reatest i)roi)riety. The head of the bay api)roaches the southern arm of Tasoo harbour on the western side of Mttresby islan<l to within a couple of miles. Cresoent inlet may be considered as formin ; the extensitm of Darwin sound northward. It turns j,'ra(lually throujfh nearly half a circle from a norlh-west Iteariny to a direction nearly s<tuth-west, and is over 4 miles in length. It is a liord, with, steep mountains and wooded sides, l)Ut probably not so deep as most similar inlets, as tlH>r»* are stretches of beach of sonu" lenj,'th. It is not known if the Indians have any trail across to Tasoo harbour, to which, if correctly jilaced, the distance across cannot be ^'reat. Red top mountain, partly bare and abotit ii,(M)0 feet hif,'h, is the most conspicuous peak in the vicinity, risin).r on the north side of the inlet, at the an;,'le of the benil. LASKEEK BAY is the name <,Mven to the wide indentation of the coast between the north-east extreme of Ly»dl island and Vertical point, the south-east point of Louise island, bearing? N.W. and S.K. from each other, an<l 10 miles apart. From Laskeek bay foiir lartfe inlets extend westward ; of these the two southern, Richardson and Lof^an inlets, open into the head of Darwin sound. The two northern inlets, Dana and Helwyn, communicate at their heads witli the head of Cumshewa inlet to the northward. RiOhardSOn inlet is about 11 miles in lonf,'th in a W.S.W. ami K.N.K. direction, with an uvenige breadth of l.^ miles, and is Htraif,'lii, .Sir uhartH, Nuh. 1,U286, 2,430. Chap. XVI.] IIICHAHDSO.N AND LCMJA.N INLKT.'^. r):2;t with uutdemtply bold Hhorcs. Th«' s<»uth»'ni Hido Ih formed hy Lycll iHland, A tli inlot bcin^ juHt within the entrance, and Dof^ iwland about '> niih'H witiiin it. Kun ^a, Tan oo, and Inner ishmtln, from east to west, form tlic nortln-rn wide. Kiin na iHJand iu about l,.'itHI feet hi;»h, and forms a <,'ood mark for the entrance ; there is a low rocky reef some distance eastward of the (uiter ]unut of Kun j^i, and a seocmd oft" the south const of the siime ishmd. Near Dojj; ishin<l there are several small islets and rocks ; and at almut '.\}, miles west of it, on the south side of the inlet, is a cove, when^ a small vessel can find a convenient anchora^'c, proltably llu' neiirest stopping' plac») to Laskeek villa^'c. The channels between Kun n;i and Tan on and the latter and inner ihlands are probably deep, thouf,'h the first should be navi^ati^l with caution, and care taken to avoitl the east end of Tan oo island, as several rocks and patches of kelp lie off it. Laskeek or Klue Indian village is situated on the eastern extremity of Tan no island. It is (»ne of the most populous still reuiaining in the Queen (Charlotte islands. The westt-rn end of Uichardson iidet is contracted to a width (tf about a quarter of a mile, and obstructed by a small isliuid and seveml rocks. There is anchonif,'o off this villafir«> in II fathoms, about 2 cables East of the village. This anchorage is not a good one, being exposed to N.\V. and S.K. winds, and is steej) close-to. On anchoring, the houses should not be brought to bear south of West, as patches of rock stretch out two- thirds the distance across to the oi)i)osite shorts from Lasket'k jioint, so that going or coming from the north the east .shore should be kejtt well aboard, it btung steep-to. In the season, kelp marks the l)atche8. The tidal stream runs through Hicliardson passage with considerable strength, and it is unsuited as an approach to Kcho harbour, though the most direct way in from the sea. Log'ftll inlet is about 7 miles in b-ngth, and nearly par.dlel to I{ichardson inlet, with Flower Pot island, a snutll bold rock, covered with trees, oft" its mouth. One otiu'r snudi island lies close to the shore on its southern sid«', but it is otherwise free from obstructions, and constitutes a fine navigable channel, the best approach to Kcho liarbour. Enter to the north of Flower Pot island, and keep in the centn* of the channel. Kun gji island, as already iiu-ntioned, is high. Ti tul island, small and with low linu>stone cliffs, lies northward of SO ll'MH Sir chtkTti, NoH. 1, 9234, 2,430. 2L :.:iit • ^(•KK\ (MIAUI.OTTr: ISLANDS. [f'llilp. XVI. it. 'ran <iM ;mtl Iiiiht isiiiinlH an- also liolil, liHiti^' t<* roiiiuifil hills of iit'ai-ly iniifonii lici^'ht of alxnit SIM) Ict'l. Tlirv have hoiuc ^oihI gravelly lu'acht'H, tlinii^h immlly cocky. Timber. — In tin- inlets in the vicinity of l.ycll island t lien- is a consitli'i-ahlc (|iianlity of line liniltcr, ticcs ^rowiiij,' in ull motlcratcly love! and slu'ltcrcil places. Dana inlet runs alxml S.W. I»y W. nearly S miles, with hold shores ; at its enlr.ince is Ilelnn't island, small, rocky, hi^fh, ami «»f r<»iindud form. A ^/tecond small island is near it, and from most points of vi»t\v the channel between tlie two is not seen, and care is necessary not to mistake this islaiwl for Flow«>r I'ot island, at the entnince to liO^'an itdet. At its Avestern extremity Dana inlet tnins northward, communicating^ )iy a narrow Imt apparently dee|> passage with Helwyn inlet, and thns ciiltin^r olV 'I'al tin kwan island from Moresby island. Tal un kwan island is S mil)>s lon^, and 'i miles hroa*! ; the hills are rounded in I'orni. and from 8(H» to !MMI f»'et liij,'h. SELWYN INLET is nearly parallel to Dana inlet and about 10 miles in len^'th, and near its head, turning' northward, runs in that direction for a lik«- distance, forinin^ at IiIkIi water a passap* for caiUK's into the upper part <d' Cumsliewa inlet, and separates Louise island from the main shore. The passa^'e is narrow and walled in on both sides ity mountains which rise very steeply from it. Kntrance island is small and lies oi\ the north entnim-e jtoint with a low rock al)OMt om* mile eastwanl of it.* After ^'iviii),' the islets oH' the north imtnince a wid«' berth, keep the north shore for a distance of T) miles until the entrance of Kock- fish harbour is reached. Rook-llsh harbour in fornuul by a proj(H.tion of low land, at theaufih'of Selwyn inlet, an<l extends in a W.S.W. dir«'ction lor about M, miles, with a width of half a mile, aixl an avefni^'e depth of l'> fathoms. It is u secure and well sheltered anchorage, nmre easily entered than ('umshewa. The head of the west biiiuch of Selwyn inlet cannot be more than 11 or 1(1 miles from Mitchell ctr (Jold harbotir ((»n the west cousl), as a low vuUey ruutt some distance wuHtwiird. At about '.\ miles from ' Sir A'lmiralty |ilun :— SelwjTi inlet on sheet of Vort* in Quti«Mi f'hiirlojtt.' iNluiiilii. No. J. His : ituuli'. m =U'.j of ixu inch. IIIHC ill it. with Ct't'p <i('k- <l, at Ill nf ;isily lliaii ), ilH roni •liitte <'llii|.. XVI.] SKI.WYN IM.KT. (TMSMKW.V IXLKT. VM till' cutniiH't' of the |tiiHH:ij,'«' Uailinj,' to ('imiHhcwii ir< th«' <>|M'nin^ tu ail iiih't altoiit ',\ milt's ilt-.p in :i Hoiitli-wi st iliri'iiinn, iipimtachitii; to within I.Jj inil«-H of Mitchell harlnmr. 'I'hi'Hi- iipptT ariiiH of St-lwyii iiih't ar«> t'liviroiKMl liy hit^li ami ni^|ft>t| iiioiuitaiiiH. Reef and Low islands arc situated in the outer part of I-'»ske«k hay. 'I'he Hoiillieni ;iii*l liiNl iiaineil i.s steep aloiit,' the water's etlue, aiitl a reef niiiH t)tf ahoiit half a mile to the soiithwanl from it. Tiieir exact position iH not known. LOUISE ISLAND in altonl ].'» miles loii^' ciist ami west, ami S miles hi'oail, with lii;;h moiinlaiiis, ami doiilttless the snow on them lasts lliroiij,'hoiit the summer. l''roin Selwyn inlet the «'ast coiisi of the Island tivnds north-eastward S mih-s, with several small hays, fully open to the sea, and mostly rocky. Vertical point, the northern enii-aii'e point of Lisk«'ek hay. projects at ahoiit lialf-wa,\ alon^' thi.> stretch of coast, and is n-markuhle from the sliape of the lieds of ^M'ey liinestoiie nf which it is composiHl, u^'^M-eKatin^' at least MM) feet in ihi<-kness. North of the point are the two small Limestone islands, hehiiid which the tide running' southward aloii^ the coast, forms a race on the ehl). SkedanS bay, ahout '2 mih's from the eiitr.ince to Cumshewa. is strewn with sunken rocks and fully o]>en, aii*l should on im accmint he ciiiered hy vesstds. A lar>,'t> Htreani enters its head, which can he seen at some distance inlaml formin).r a hi^'h waterfall, ami which. accordin(r to the Indian.^ Hows out of u hike of some si/.--. hi;:h anion^' the mountains. SkedaiiH villaj^'e forms a seini-cin le round tin- head of a small hay or cove, very rocky, whi«h indents the HUith side of a narrow isthmus, connecting two remarUahle nippK-shaped hills with thu wain shore. This peninsula is situated at the south entrance point to Cumshewa inlet, and lietweeii it and the Skethinh islands, the tide f«>rms a race. Skedaiis islands, distant '.^[, miles from the shore, are low and covered with trees. CUMSHEWA INLET extends aitoiit 1') miles westwani, with a proloii^atitui southward connecting,' it with Selwyn inlet. It di(fi-rs from the inlets to the soiitii, in the Inw chafarter of ihe land on its northern shore. There is more heatdi aloti)jr the shores than in the southern inlets, ami wide tidal-Hats, indicating,' shoaler wator, whii-h iti not onlv found in the inlet itself, itiit e.Mends oil the citasl. Sir ohnrti*. Nt)f». I, ".»•_>;»//, '.VMi MO lllMS £ I IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-S) V ^ ,y,._ '^^ 1.0 i.l 11.25 u Hi 2.0 U 1116 hie Sciences Corporalion 33 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 m % V - ^ c> ►> 532 QUKEX CHARLOTTK ISLANDS, [Chap. XVI. Towards the head of the inlet, the .shores are quite bold in some places, and the water probably deep.''* In the entrance of Cnmshewa inlet, to the north of Skedans islands, are depths of 20 fathoms, with a shell and gravel bottom. Off the north point of entrance, Cumshewa island, a small barren rock, and the Cumshewa rocks, extend in a south-easterly direction nearly 1^ miles. When coming from the north, therefore, keep well ott" the shore till the rocks are passed, and then stand in to the entrance in a north-westerly direction. Kin gui island, just within the north entrance point of the inlet, is covered with dead trees, and can be recognised easily. At about one mile within the entrance, an extensive shoal, on which the soa breaks heavily, extends from the south shore, leaving a channel about half a mile wide between it and the north shore of the inlet. The passage in is throiigh this channel, in which it is reported there are depths of 7 and (S fathoms. A few patches of the shoal dry at low water, but the greater part is indicated only by the kelp whieli grows thickly on it during the summer. The tidal streams run strongly in the mouth of the inlet. McKay cove, within the narrows, on the north shore, is a cove, where the shore dries out for some distance at low water, but off it a small vessel may tind a pretty secure anchorage, though the tidal streams sweep round the cove. Cumshewa Villagre is situated on the north side of the inlet, about one mile westward of McKay cove, the houses being built along the shore of a bay facing south-eastward, ?>^ miles within the entrance. A small rocky islet, connected with the main at low water, lies off it. Anchoragre.— The best anchorage for a large vessel is probably to be found on the south side, 5^ miles westward of Skedans point and abreast a stretch of low laud, eastward of a stream. The COAST.— From the entrance to Cumshewa inlet, the coast trends north-westward to Spit point, the south point of Skidegate inlet, a distance of 17 miles. It is indented by two considerable bays. Copper bay — the northern — about 5 miles from Spit point, received its name from some copper works which were carried on there at one time. The land is low, and very different in appearance from See charts, Nos. l,92:ia, 2,1.30. * Si'r Admiralty plan : — Cumsl 3wa inlet, on sheet of Ports in Quean Charlotte ii^lands. No. 2,1(>8 ; scale, 7;t ^ U'5 of an inch. Chiip. XVI.] CUMSHKWA AND SKIDEGATK IXLETS. 5:?3 coast inlet, bays, ceived there from that of the coast southward. The projecting points are mostly low and flat, and formed of gravel deposits. "With the change in the character of the land, the beach becomes flat, and shoal water extends far ofl; shora, tho depths shoaling from 10 fathoms at '^ miles off Cunishewa island, to 6 and 7 fathoms at 7 miles otf Spit point. Near Cumahewa the beaches are almost entirely composed of boulders, but show more gravel and sand toward Skidegate. The surface of the country is densely wooded with trees of Targe Bize. Cape Ohroustclieff, 2 miles to the southward of Spit point, should not be passed nearer than 5 miles ; the cape is low and dark- looking. Coming from the southward, it shows very conspicuously ; when abreast of it. Spit point, the low south point of Skidegate, becomes visible. SKIDEGATE INLET, separating Moresby from Graham island, forms a spacious harbour communicating with the west coast at Buck point, south of Cartwright sound, by an intricate channel, only navigable for canoes a portion of the way. Skidegate inlet from its entrance extends in a south-westerly direction for about 9 miles from the Bar rocks, where it contracts to a width of 1] miles between Image point and Flowery islet on the north side of Alliford bay.* Within these points it opens again, forming two expansions, separated by Maude island. That part of the northern expansion eastward of I^ina island forms Bear Skin bay ; the part westward of the island has several islands in it, with Anchor cove in the western end. Beyond Anchor cove it turns north-west, forming Long Arm ; the total length of the inlet from Bar rocks to the head of Lontj arm being about 21 miles. The southern expansion forms South bay, in which is South island, its western side passing into Skidegate channel and thence to the west coast of Queen Charlotte islands. The shore of Skidegate inlet is not so bold as those of the flords to the southward, and is mostly fringed with a beach. The sur- rounding country is densely wooded, and where the land is flat, timber of magniflcent growth is found. This inlet would be con- venient in many respects as a site for saw-mills. Spit point is low and wooded, and composed of sand deposits which, extending northward, form the bar which stretches across the entrance to Skidegate inlet. * Si-e Admiralty plan ;— Skidegate inlet. No. 18 ; ttoale, m:= I'O inch. . .•)34 gUBEN CHARLOTTK ISLANDS. [riliip. XVI. The Bar ov spit, witli from (iiic to ;> t'atlioms w.ittT on it, t;xt(Mi(ls ill a north- westerly direction for about Kj miles to within nearly 1^ miles of Lawn point, the northern point of entrance. The sjnt slopes off very gradually seaward, while toward the inlet it rapidly deepens to 20 or v5() fathoms. J3ar rocks, on the outer edge of the spit, 2^ miles from its extremity, are two iii number ; the western one dries .') feet, and lies 6| miles N.W. § N. fi«om Spit point ; the outei- or eastern rock dries one foot, and lies '.) miles N.E. i E. from Dead Tree i)oint. The sea does not always break on these rocks. A red conical buoy is moored in n\ fathoms, on the north side of Dead Tree point channel, with Inner bar rock N. by E., ilistant 7 cables. Lawn point is generally green, with a small sand cliff and a large boulder in front of it ; a hill "jOO feet high rises immediately to the westward of the point, 'flie coast southward of Lawn point is tlat for 10 miles to Village bay, and is covered with standing ilead trees. Dead Tree point, M miles to the southward of Lawn point, is a projecting part of the coast, but otherwise is not conspicuous. Villagre islands, in front of Village bay, form good marks for Skidegate inlet ; the northern one (Bare islet), 125 feet high, is almost bare, and the other (Tree islet), having trees upon it, is 1.53 feet high. Skidegate village, nearly half a mile in length, is situated in the bay, off which are the Village islands, and consists of many houses, with the usual carved posts, fronting the beach. Villagre bay is a good stopping place ; anchorage may be taken up lietween liare islet and the beach in 14 fathoms. It is, however, exposed to S.E. winds. Should one of these gales spring up, good shelter will be found in Alliford bav. Alliford bay, on the south side of the entrance, is an excellent anchorage, with good holding ground, in about 9 fathoms. The passage between Flowery islet and the North point of the bay should not be used. Wood and water may be obtained. See charts, Nos. 1,923«, 2,430. Cha|i. XVI. i SKlDKfiATK INI-ET, DIlUa'TlOXS :uV} 1(1 « Danube rock, iu tlie lairway of tlic iiinor puit of Skidc^jrute inlet, with about 4 feet on it at low-water spring's, lies X. by K. J E.. .1 cables from the north-east point of Triangle islet. Anchor cove, situated 1(1.^ miles from Village islands on the n(trth side of the inlet, att'ords anchorage in 5 fathoms ; anthracite coal is found on both shores of the inlet, but principally on the sides of mount Seymour, one mile westward of the cove.* Cowgitz coal mine is about ime mile in a N.N.K. direction from Anchor cove. The Queen Charlotte Coal Mining Company was formed in l.StJo to open up the deposits of anthracite which had been discovered here, and abandoned in 1872. Observation spot, on North point, Anchor cove, is situated in latitude 5.r 12' 31' N., longitude 132° 14' 19' W. Biate CllUCk brook is the largest stream in Skidegate inlet, its mouth being a])out one mile north of Anchor cov(>. The brook receives its name from a quarry a few miles up its course, where the Indians obtain the dark shaly material from which they make carvings. In former years communication used to be kept up Avith the head of Masset inlet to the north by means of this stream, part of the distance being accomplished in canoe anil part on foot. Leading island, 3i miles southward of the Hare Village island, forms the western part of Alliford bay at the southern entrance to Skideg-ate inlet ; it is 400 feet high and appears round. Maude island, at the junction of the north and south ex[)ansioiis of the inlet, it, nearly 4 miles long, B.W. and N.E., U miles broad, and 1,2G0 feet high. On the west end of the island the In<lians belonging to Gold harbour (on the west coast) have established a village, on ground purchased from the Skidegate Indians. The Gold harbour Indians still preserve their rights over that region, and live there much of the summer, but find it more convenient to have their permanent houses near Skidegate. Directions. — A deep channel into Skidegate inlet may be found northward of Bar rock spit by steering for Lawn Doint on a S.W. bearing until within about a mile of the point, when the water will deepen to 15 or 20 fathoms; from this poir .general S.S.E. course may be steered, paying great attention to the soundings, until • See plan : — Anchor cove on Afltnlralty chart. No. 48 ; scale, in = 12 inches. yM\ gUBBN CHAULOTTE ISLANDS. [Chap. XVI. tho wcHt Hi(l(? of Leiiiiiij,' iHlaml comes in line with the east side of Bare island, bearing iSouth, when steer as requisite np the inlet.* The deep portion of the channel from opposite Lawn point till past the north-west point of Bar rock spit (or until the Boulder at Lawn poin<^ bears W. bj' N.) is only one-third of a mile wide ; attention to the lead and steering, with a sharp look out, is therefore necessary, as previously remarked. The west side of Leading island, iu line with the east side of Bare Village island bearing South, leads over the Bar rock spit, to the north- ward of the rocks, in 15 feet at low water, from whence the depth is fi'om 20 to 30 fathoms to Village islands ; passing to the southward of these islands anchorage may be found in the north-east side of Bear Skin bay in 12 fathoms, or, to gain shelter from a south-east gale, Alliford bay ia recommended. Coasting vessels with local knowledge use a passage with 3^ fathoms over the spit, about one mile south of the Bar rocks (when they are visible), by keeping Dead Tree point bearing W.S.W. until the leading mark comes on. Approaching Skidegate inlet the water should not be shoaled under (5 fathoms at low water until Lawn point bears S.W. or the leading marks are on. Tides. — It is high water, at full anil change, in Skidegate inlet at 1 h.; springs rise 17 feet, neaps 14 feet. The COAST. — From Lawn hill, near Lawn point at the entrance of Skidegate, to Rose point, the north-east extreme of Graham island, the distance is about 4:8 miles. The coast line is straight and open, with no harbour, and scarcely a creek or protected cove for canoes or boats for long distances. The beach is gravelly and sometimes stony to the Tl ell river, beyond this it is mostly sandy to Rose point. For many miles northward cliffs of clay and sand are fotind alongshore, and for about 17 miles northward of Tl ell river these frequently rise into cliffs 50 to 100 feet in height. North of the range of ciiffs the shore is almost everywhere bordered by sand-hills, which are covered with coarse grass, beach pea, &c., and would afford fine grazing for cattle. Behind these are woods, in some places burnt, and the trees generally scrubby. This part of the coast is also characterized by lagoons, and is evidently extending seaward, by the banking up of t he sand under the action of the sea. The largest lagoon opens out • iSee chart, Nd. 48. 1 Chap. XVI.] SKIDEGATE (NLET.— ROSE POINT. 537 at cape Fife about 6 milen to the Houthward of Rose point, extemling southward for some miles, and is reported by the Indians to com- municate Avith a second, further inhmd. The mouth of this higoon forms a safe harbour for boats or canoes at high water, but is nearly ilry at low water. The coast between Skidegate and Rose point 'having dangerous flats extending off it, whicn have not been examined, should be given a berth of (I or 7 miles, and the lead kept constantly going wliilst running along it, the depths varying from 1> w U fathoms. Tl ell river enters the sea at 10^ miles North of Lawn point, anil is a stream of some size. For about :\ miles above its moutli it runs nearly parallel to the shore, separated from the sea by a low swampy strip of land only about half a mile in breadth. This laml is of comparatively modern formation, being composed of sand and gravel, and is partly covered with spruce trees of no great' size. The water of the river is of a dark coffee or amber colour. Cape Ball (Kul tow sis), nearly :i{) miles from Skidegate bar, is very conspicuous, having a remarkable white cliff on it, with lower cliff's on both sides ; it cannot be mistaken. The Indians report that at very low tides patches of clay dry a hmg way off from the cape. A rock with 2 fathoms on it, lies about ti miles East from cape Ball. Cape Fife. — Near this cape on some parts oi" the shore magnetic iron sand is abundant, with numerous colours of gold in it. Then' is anchorage off" the cape with off-shore winds ; in this neighbourhooil the lead must be most carefully attended to. Rose fCint, the north extreme of the Queen (-harlotte islands, so named by Douglas in 1788, is known to the Haida Indians as Nai koon, or long nose. It is a remarkable low promontory, apparently formed by the meeting of the currents and waves from the southward and westward round this corner of the island. The inner part of Rose point, near cape Fife, does not differ from the low- wooded coast to the south ; the Indians say there are many lakes and swamps inland. Further out, where the point is narrower and moi-e exposed, it is clothed with small stunted wood, which in turn give place to waving grass-covered sand-hills. Beyond this the narrow Set' charts, Nob. 1,923«, 2,430. :.:?8 (^rKHN C'HAKLOITK ISLANDS. [Chai). XVI. yrmveily ))()iiit is covt-rt'tl above hij,'li-\vater mark with lu-aps (d • Iriftiuf,' riaiul, and f^ieat (|iiantities of hleacluMl tiinber, lo^'s, and stiiiijps, piled proniiseuously together. The apex of the point is a narrow steep-sided gravell.v bank, which extends for a long distance at low water. A dangerous spit extoi'ds off iiose point in a north-easterly direction, for, it is said, a distance of nearly 5 miles, but its exact extent has not been ascertained. H.M.S. Rocket struck soundings in 7 fathoms at least 3 miles from the end of the spit, over which the sea was breaking heavily, and which has four or live sandy hillocks on it. The point should, therefore, especially in dark or thick weather, be given a wide berth. Several vessels have been lost on Rose point, which is a dangerous and treacherous point to round at any time, except in tine clear weather, and many Indians have been drowned there on different occasions. Captain H. Brundige remarks : — " I examined Rose spit and found a •• stnmg current of about 2 knots. This spit or sand-bank extends out '• about 4 or 5 miles, with boulders and timbers, or large trees buried •' in the sand. Soundings were found to be gradual, from 40 fathoms " dcnvn to 5 fathoms close along side ; also gootl even sounding ail * the way to Masset with sandy bottom. Shijts could anchor under •• Invisible point in a south-easterly gale in 5 to S fathoms." Rose point is situated in latitude ')4^ 11' HO' X.. longitude i:u" ae w. HECATE STRAIT, between the Queen Charlotte group and the mainland of British Columbia, is 75 miles wide at its southerti entrance, gradually narrowing to 25 miles between Rose spit (Graham island), and the Butterworth rocks on the eastern side of the strait- In the fairway of the south-east part of Hecate strait the water is deep. From Skidegate across to within 10 miles of the mainland, in a north-east direction, the depths are from 8 to 25 fathoms ; in some cases, growing kelp was passed through by the survej'ing vessel Beaver (1866) in 8 and 13 fathoms. With the centre of Zayas island bearing N. by W. ^ W., and the north extreme of Stephens island E. by N. | N., the depth is 15 fathoms. This bank of soundings was found very useful on one occasion, during a strong breeze from the south-east, with thick weather, when H.M.S. Virago anchored on it and remained until it cleared up, anil the land became visible. Sir ohUita, Nosi l,l>2a« and h, 2,430. IL . Chill), XVI.] HKCATK ST HA IT, TIDKS. 539 Northward of a line clrtiwn from Skincnttle inlet, across tho strait to Banks island, the depth does not exceed 1(K) falhonis, and is i,'enerally much less. A similar shallow area borders (irahani ishuul to the north, and it is also probably comparatively shallow for some distance ofl' the west cbae^ of the northern part of the same island. From the vicinity of Masset a bank of siind not exceeding,' '2<> fathoms extends to the north ami i-ast, trendinjj; with Kose spit, and on the east side of the island extendiny: towards Cumshewa, its eastern marf,'in reachin<,' the middle part of Hecate strait. Theavera^'e depth of water is from 7 to 10 fathoms, but there are much siioaler parts. This bank was named Dogfish bank by Ingraham in 171)1. Near its eastern edge he places, in latitude !')'i° 5f»' and about 'M) miles S.K. (true) from Invisible point, a rock or shoal on which the ship Manjaret struck in 1792, drawing 1:5 feet. Near the spot he notes '.\ fathoms, deepening to .5, 7, and 12 fathoms eastward. Shoal.— In hit. .")3" 2() N., long. i'.W t) W., approximate, a shoal has l)een reported, but its position is doubtful. Tidal streams.— In Hecate strait, the flood stream sets to the northward. In Dixo'i entrance, the flood coming from the westward round North island, sets along the Masset shore, across Hecate strait for Brown passage, spreading for about 1.") miles round Rose point. towards cape Ibbetson (Kdye passage), where it meets the tlo.nl fr(»in the southward ; consetiuently between Rose point, oape Ball, cape Ibbetson, and thence south-east 15 or 20 miles, the tides are irregular. The direction and rate of the tidal streams are not regular, being greatly infiuenced by the winds. At full and change they run with great strength. Time of high water over the strait generally is al)out Oh. aOm. Between cape Murray, Percy point, and Zayas island, the tides are the strongest and most irregular, causing a heavy and confuseil sea, so much so, that in bad weather it has the appeanince of breakers. Rose point to Masset- sound. — The shore between these two places form a bay 22 miles in width. With the exception of a few small rocky points, the beach is smooth and regular, and almost altogether composed of sand, with gravel in some places, sloping steeply above the ordinary high-water mark. Low sand-hills generally form a border to the woods which densely cover the land. The water is shoal far oil" the shore, especially at 15 miles from Hose Set- charts, Nos. 1,923^ aiid h, 2,430. :>i{) iiVKKS (MtAKLOTTK TSI-.WDS. [Cliap. XV!. point, iinri on iippnnichinf,' Mhhhi t sound, wht'i-c kt-lp fonns wide fields at ii f,'reat distunce from the bt^ach. In the north-cawt part of the bay there in anchorage with oflF-shore winds. Hi ellen river, at 1) miles Honth-we8twaT<d from Hose pomt, is a stream of 80Lj,e size, which is frequented by great numbers of salmon in the autumn. Its mouth forms a good boat harbour. On its west bank is Tow hill, an eminence remarkable in this low country, facing the sea with a steep cliff 2(K) feet high, compos»'d of columnar volcanic rocks on one side, while the other slopes more gradually. MASSET HARBOUR is rather more than 22 miles S.W. ^ S. from Rose point, and should be approached with caution ; the entrance is between a low point with a ledge of rocks covered witli kelp, extending half a mile from it on the western side, and the point of a long spit partly dry (the surf usually breaking the whole length of it) on the eastern, the passage between having an extensivi' bar, upon which it is said there is a depth of 3 fathoms.* Just inside and round the eastern point of inner enti-ance is a bay, with a beach, containing the principal village (Ut te was), off the centre of which there is anchorage in 10 fathoms. At this part the width of the harbour is nearly 2 miles, a large sand-bank tilling up its western side. The ebb stream runs very strongly, making this by no means a good anchorage. Masset sound, from its seaward entrance to the point at which it expands to Masset inlet, is 19 miles long, and about one mile in average width. The depth, ascertained in a few places, varies from 10 to 12 fathoms. A number of small streams flow into it, most of which, according to Indian reports, have their sources in small lakes. At its soiithern end it expands to a great sheet of inland water, J 7 miles in length east and west, and in its broadest part 5^ miles. This, to the northward and eastward, is bounded by continuous low wooded land ; and to the west and south by hills, rising in the distance to mountains, rounded in form and about 1,500 feet high. About the heads of the inlets, and near the mouths of streams only, are small areas of flat ground found. Of these inlets, that which reaches furthest southward is called by the Indians Tin in owe. Sit chart, No. 2,4S0. * Stf Admiralty plan : Masset harbour, en aheet of PortH in Queen Charlotte ialandt), No. 2,168 ; scale, m = 175 inches. This plan, however, must be used with caution, as it has been reported detective. (•hap. XVI.] MA.ssKT iiAFimnn.— viH.uio sorvD. 541 On 111*' south riitlf of MawHt't inlet, :> milfs t'roiii its euHteni extremity, is a narntw juBHage, the mouth of which in partly lihteked l»y ialaudH, hut which leads into a wecoutl groat iulet known by the liulians a.s Trioo skatli. Kelp grows ubuntlantly in the channel on both sides of the islands, which therefore cannot he very deej). The tiile runs through them with great vehtclty, especially at ehh, wlien in the western channel it forms a true rapid, with much broken water. Tides and tidal streams.— The rise of a spring tide at the entrance of Masset sound was estimated at about 1-i feet, but, owing to the length of the luirrow souiul, Masset inlet has a tide of from S to 10 feet only ; and the second or Tsoo skatli still less, about (i feet. On one occasion, it was high water at the entrance of Masset sound 111. I'nu. \>.m., while in the narrow entrance to Tsoo skatli, 2l\], miles v.'stant, the Hood had just caused a reversal of the current at Oh. 20m. Owing to the gr«'at expansion of the upjH'r part of Masset inlet the tide continues to run up opposite Masset for about 2J, hour- after it is falling by the shore, whilst the ebb runs out for about ."5 hours after the water has begun to rise on the beach. Masset to Virago sound.— The coast between these two places is everywhere lo\, and wooded, with occasional open grassy spaces, differing from the coast east of Masset, in being rocky or covered with boulders. No wide sandy bays occur, and the points are mostly of dark low rocks. The trees along the shore are not of great size, and are interspersed with occasional grassy spaces. The water is shoal far off shore, with wide fields of kelj). The shore should be approached with caution, with the lead constantly going; there are some good anchorages, in which a vessel might remain a night instead of keeping under way, or cruising al)out with a south-east wind, and thick weather. VIRAGO SOUND, the entrance to Naden harbour, is 4i miles wide between its outer points, capes Kdensaw to the east and Naden to the west ; and 2h miles deep to the narrow passage (^ which is H miles long and about half a mile wide) leading into the harbour.* To the northward of the narrows, the west shore between Marv point, the western entrance of the narrows, and Jorey point, a distance of 2 miles, is bordered by a flat extending to a distance of about half * iSee sketch of Virago Round on Admiralty plans of ports. &c., in Queen Charlotte ielaudii, No. 2,168 ; scale, m=0'5 of an inch. :)42 • JT'KKN f'MAnLOTTK ISLANDS. i"nimp. XVI. a mile, iin<l on tho opjJOHitf Hliorc, from cajM- KiN'n.tav to TnHkip point, a shoal iiIhii cxtcndn altoiit tlic Hanic iliMtani-f : t'roin tiit> juttfi- poini a Hpit runs oH" to tii« westward for three-cjuarterH of a mile, with a depth of "11 fatlionis, contraotin;; the channel, in whieh tlie it-asi water is l\\ fathoniH, to a width of t cabh'S, The inner anchoraLfe, on tlie westtTn side, just witliin the narrows, iw in 10 fathoms, at alxmt 2 or '.\ cal)leH distant from the shore. Naden harbour. — This eajtacions and land-locked harlmnr is ahout 4 niili'H in ^'rcatewt It-n^'th nortli and Month, and 2 milew in width, with depths of H to 12 fathoms in it. Low land, densely wttoded with si)ruee and ht'mlock of fine fjrowth, borders the whole harl)our. Kock api)ears on the shon' only near thf bottom of tlie harbour, and in the narrows. Naden river Hows from a larf,'i' lake, which, according; to Indian acconnt, must be l(t miles oi- mon- in diameter, but is much encumbered by fallen tn-es, and its banks, except in a few swampy Hats, are densely wooded. At hif,'h water a Ixtat can i)roceed about '1 miles uj). Stanley (Te ka) river, in the south-west corner of the harbour, is reported to be navifrdble for boats ; and several smaller streams also eater the harbour. The spruce timber is excellent, and (he harliouj' 's well adai)ted for saw-mills and the exjmrt of lumbef. In August, the Indians say that halibut and salmon are abundant, and },'eese and ducks come in larpe Hocks. Tides. — The rise and fall is about 13 feet. Viragro sound and cape Knox. -From cape Naden the shore and country behind it are mostly low, though with some rocky cliffs of no great, height, and the points are rocky, but wide gravelly or sandy bays intervene. Some rocks occur at a little distance off shore, but there is no appearance of a wide shoal belt like that found east of Masset. Klas kwun point, -H niiles W. by N. from cape Naden, is a remarkable promontory, rising in the centre to a hill about 200 feet in height, which, owing to the flat character of other parts of the shore, is visible for a long distance. In a rocky bay to the east of the point, and open to the north-eastward, is Yat za village.* Half-way from Klas kwun point to the east entrance of Parry passage is .lal un river ; its moutli forms an excellent canoe or boat harbour ' iSrr chart, No. 2,430. ''Ii;i|». XNI.] VIIIA«;<» SOINIt.— N(»U'nr IMIiANH. :ii:» lit lii>,'li wiitcr, Al :5 iniUw furtluT wcHtWiiril in a Hinall i)i'<iin(mtory, on the eiiMt side of wliicli Ih iinntht'r exfclk-nt l>oat liailHUir ; tlu- I'illar irt a very romiifkiihh- columnar iiuvsH of Hantlrttoiif and con- ^'loniorato rock wliich staiulK near tho fastern side, about "2^^ IVct in diameter and 1)5 feet 1mj,'Ii. Parry passage weparates North island (wliicii forms tho north- western extremity of Queen Charlotte islands) from Graham island. The western entrance at the south-east anf,'le of Cloak bay is three- quarters of a luile wide, but is contracted to less than '^ cables by foul ^'round which extends in a N.N.W. direction from a point on the southern side of the entrance. The passaj^e projjcr is about 'i miles In it'n<,'th, with an average width of three-cjuarters of a mile. Tills channel, between the ledges of rock which extend oil' tlu- southern side for about one mile and North island, is clear, but the tide rushes through it, forming a race. The flood-stream vvv.h eastward, leaving the east end of the passage with a uorth-easte?"ly direction. A small islet lies about one mile eastward from the eastern entrance, and a rock awas' s rep(/rted 2} miles N.K. from the same locality, and about 1 j miles from the southern shore of North island. .1 ust without the eusterii entrance of Parry passage, and on the south side, abreast of Lucy island, is Bruiu bay, aH'ordiui^ anchoi'age ih from 1:2 to 14 fatlioms, sand. A lim^ of kelp fringes the shore, which is studded with rocky patches and stones. This is not a good aiichorage, as the Hood .sets into it from the passige, forming a number of eddies, and rendering it dilKcult to lie at single anclior without fouling it. North island is about 5 miles in length, between North point and its southern extreme, ami composed of low land, no point probably reaching a height of iUX) feet. It is densely wooded. On the eastern side there is said to be a good anidiorage in a bay which was formerly used by the vessels belonging to the North West Company. A small round high island situated close to point North, a prominent object in approaching, is named Thrumb. Remarkable wooden carvings are said to exist on the North island shore, or attached to the winter dwellings of the natives. Cloak bay forms the western entrance to Parry passage, lying between the south-west shore of North island ami caj)e Knox. It is <S!V' chart, Xo. 2,4150. 544 gUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLAN'DS. [Chai). XVI. about 2i miles wide, and the same deep; the depths in the middle of the bay vary from 30 to 17 fathoms, sand, gravel, and shells, and it is protected from all except westerly winils. Some rocks, on which the sea breaks only in heavy weather, lie some distance from the North island shore, and there are also a couple of remarkable pointed islands on this side. On the south side of North island, in Parry passage, is a snug covo named Henslung, in which whalers used occasionally to anchor. Tt is high water at full and change, at Henslung, at Oh. 20m., and the rise IG feet. Lucy island, on the north shore of Parrj- passage, is separated from the south side of North island by a narrow channel, on the north shore of which is a small Indian village, called Tartanne, which was in former years a place of importance. A reef runs off the east end of Lucy island, and a wide shoal with kelp stretches eastward from the southern extremity of North island. Between these lies the channel with 8 to 11 fathoms water. Abreast the Indian village the depth in the channel is 6 fathoms. CAPE KNOX, the north-west extreme of Graham island, is a long narrow tongue of land, on which are a few low hills. The cape may be considered as a gigantic dyke of igneous rock running in an east and west direction. Its south side is bold, and oflP it lie several rocks in a westerly direction, the farthest out at a distance of about i\^ miles from the cape. On these the swell of the Pacific seldom ceases to break with great violence. Cape Knox is situated in latitude 54° 10' 30" N., longitude 132° 53' W. Directions. — On leaving Bruin bay or Henslung cove for the westward, a vessel may pass close to the cliffs forming the southern side of North island, and keeping at about half a mile outside the reefs that extend off the south shore (Graham island), get a good offing before hauling to the southward, to clear the rocks off cape Knox. When well out, the projecting point of Frederick island will be seen about 18 miles to the south-eastward. At 2 or 3 miles to the southward of Parry passage is an indentation of the shore, which might be taken as its entrance by a vessel coming from the south- ward, — a mistake that might lead to serious consequences, as the whole coast, as far as Frederick island, appears to contain several Hi',- chart, No. 2,430. Chiip. XVT.] CAPE KNOX. — BUCK POINT. 545 open bays, with outlying rocks off (>ach of them. The Indians, in tlicir sketches of this part of the coast, do not draw any harbours, but merely exposed bays. Frederick island lies about U miles S. ^ W. from cape Knox Behind this island Intfraham is stated to have discovered a com- modious harbour in 1701, which he named port Injjraham. He places this inlet in latitude 53° 47' N. The northern entrance is formed by two high blull's with some small islets between them. Here Ingraham obtained 17 fathoms. Northward from the entrance on the coast is a larjije reef of rocks, and westward and southward from the southern j)oint of entrance along the shore of Frederick island are a large number of sunken rocks. The port extends about <) miles from the entrance in an easterly direction, is about 2 miles wide with four small islets near the head. In the vicinity of the islets is some kelp. At the head is a beach and 9 or 10 fathoms water. Towards the head the iiort curves more to the eastward. Half way towards the head Ingraham got (54 fathoms. The passage eastward of Frederick island has several islets in it and G fathoms water. Some kelp is noted in the channel ; Ingraham places this south entrance in about longitude 133° 5' W. Hippa island, lying 2i\ miles S.E. h S. from Frederick island, ai)])ears from a position IJj miles seaward of Frederick island as high and l)old ; but from tlie south its outer end appears as a low point, and the inner end bold. This portion of the coast is higher and more broken than the former, the oi)enings appearing deeper, neither does it seem to have so manj' rocks lying off it. The Indians show some good harbours towards Hippa. When abreast Hippa island, l?uck point, 27 miles distant, and also cape Henry, about 18 miles further to. the southward, can be seen, the coast presenting the same high and broken appearance as the preceding 2(5 miles. All the points along this part much resemble Buck point. A rock, on which the sea breaks heavily, lies in Rennell sound, in approximately latitude '):\° 20' N., longitude 132^^ 49' W. Buck point, on the northern side of Skidegate channel (which leads through to Skidegate), is rath(>r low and rugged, jutting out from the high land at the back. It has a large high island just to the northward of it, and there is another, much smaller and peaked standinjT out clear of the land at aliont 3 or 4 miles farther t'^ the SO IIOIS iir chart, No. 2,430. .M i I i 546 QUEEN CHARLOTTE SOUND. [Chap. XVI. northward, and lying in the entrance of Cartwright sound, which is formed between Buck point on the south, and Hunter point on the north. SKIDEGATE CHANNEL, the main entrance to which it; about 7 or 8 miles to tlie eastward of Buck point, and is a little more than one mile in width, extends in an easterly direction for 6 or 7 miles to Log jjoint, Avhere it is one mile wide. Foul ground extends one mile westward from Skidegato channel south entrance point. Dawson harbour is reported to be a secure anchorage on the north shore of Skidegate channel, 2 miles from the west entrance point, bearing S.W. ^ W. An island, about 2 miles in circumference, lies westward of the entrance to Skidegate channel, in a position bearing about West. distant 4 miles from the south entrance point of that channel. A rock, on which the sea breaks heavily, lies half a mile eastward of this island, or approximately in latitude 51?° 9|' N., longitude 132° 32' W. At Log point the West narrows commence, which lead to Skidegate inlet. About one mile west of Log point a branch turns off to the southward for one mile, and then westward to the Pacific, which it enters at about 3 miles to the southward of the main channel, form- ing an island 5^ miles long by 2 broad, which rises to an elevation of 1,0()0 to 2,000 feet. This passage is only adapted for canoes or boats, as it is blocked by a bank at its eastern end, with not more than 4 feet on it at higii water. The tidal streams from east and west meet about the East narrows, running through the channel with great strength, probably 5 knots in several places. The narrows must ^e passed at filack water of high tide, which lasts for a very short time, so that both narrows cannot be got through in one tide. Inskip channel, leading round the north side of Kuper island, is about 8^ miles long, and half a mile wide. A short distance out- side it, there are some small islands on both sides, but there will be no difficulty in discovering the passage in. In the channel there was no bottom at GO fathoms, but at the entrance a cast of 35 fathoms was obtained on a halibut bank. A short distance inside the islands See chart, No. 2,430. ■ Chap. XVI.] SKIDBOATB PHANNEL. — MOORE CHANNEL, 547 on the north side of the entrance, is a village belonging to the Kilkite tribes. Further in, on the name side, and about IH miles up, is a deep opening, and where this and Moore channel meet are two other openings to harbours, with some small islands lying near them. MOORE OHAITNEL, on the south side of Kuper island, is 5 miles long in an E.N.P], and W.S.W. direction, and half a mile wide, the shore on each side being bold of approach, high, and covered with trees nearly down to the water's edge. In mid-channel there is no bottom at 70 fathoms. On the north side, just without the entrance, are some small rocky islets, named Moresby islands, and on the south side a few rocks close in shore.* A heavy l)reaker, evidently on a rock, lies in the entrance to Moore channel, west side of Moresby island, in a position abont N.N.W., distant 1^ miles from cape Henry, or approximately in latitude 52° 57' N., longitude IM° 21' W. Mitchell or Gold harbour, about 2^ miles deep and half a mile wide, is surrounded by i)recipitous and densely wooded hills, from 70t) to 800 feet in height, and at its head in Thetis cove is a sandy beach and a stream of water. At 1| miles up the harbour is Sansuni island, a small spot covered with trees. The anchorage lies half a mile furtlier on, in Thetis cove, keeping Sansutn island on the port hand, the passage being one cable wide, with deep water. This cove is completely land-locked, but squalls, frequently accompanied by rain, come over the hills with considerable violence. Thorn rock lies one mile inside the mouth of the harbour, on the starboard side going in, and has 3 feet on it at low water ; it lies al)out one cable from the shore ; and on the opposite side, at not quite so great a distance from the land, but a little further out, is another rock. These are dangerous to vessels working in or out ; but there is nothing to fear if the wind be fair and the ship kept mid-channel. At one mile to the westward of Mitchell harbour, and on the same side of Moore channel, is the entrance to Douglas harbour, apparently very similar to the former, from which it is separated by Josling peninsula. Directions. — The land being very high on both sides of the channels leading into the above harbours, influences the direction of * Set Admiralty plans :— Ports iij Queen Charlotte islands, No. 2.1 fiH. SO lliHH 2M2 i ( I 548 gUKEN CHARLOTTE IHLA.NDS. [Chap. XVI. the wind which is either right in or out. Winds with any westing blow in, and those with easting the contrary, A sailing-vessel leaving Moore channel with a south-east wind should keep well over towards Hewlett bay, to enable her to fetch clear of the Moresby islands, as the wind will be very unsteady until well clear of the high land to windward. Tides. — It is high water, full and change, at Moore channel, at Ih. 40m. ; springs rise 13 feet, neaps 10| feet. TASOO HARBOUR.— Cape Henry, lying 3 miles from the entrance to Moore channel, terminates in a steep slope with a hummock at the extremity ; 17 miles to the southward of this is the entrance to Tasoo harbour, the intermediate coast being high, and rising abruptly from the sea. The entrance is short and narrow, but the harbour itself is extensive, with deep water in many places, the anchorage being near some small islands on the port hand going in. Between Tasoo harbour and cape St. James are other openings, which, according to Indian report, lead into good harbours, the southernmost of which is that leading into Houston Stewart channel and Rose harbour. Inside Anthony island, and close to Houston Stewart channel, is an opening called by the natives Louscoone, and reported to be a good harbour, not unlike Rose harliour. This coast, excepting off Anthony island, is also apparently bold. The land near cape St. James has fewer trees on it than that to the northward. Supplies. — The banks in and near Hecate strait, sw ^jt by strong currents, with the shore line of inlets and fiords, . nstitute the feeding grounds of the halibut and other fish, which i jound in the vicinity of the islands. The halibut is the most important, and is largely consumed by the natives ; the dog-fish is also very abundant, and is taken for the manufacture of oil ; salmon run up most of the streams in large numbers, especially in the autumn ; herrings are plentiful in some places, especially about Skidegate, at certain seasons ; pollock or coal fish are caught on the north and wc^^ "oast, and supplies an edible oil ; flounders and plaice abound in some localities ; cod and mackerel are also caught, and probably are abundant on certain banks at some seasons ; while smaller fish and shell fish, oysters excepted, form an important item in the native dietary. See chart, ^o. 2,430. Chap. XVI.] TASOO HAUBOUR. 549 are tain oast, lome vre and tivo Immense flocks of wild geese and duck visit the northern shores of the ishinds in the autumn. Potatoes grow in abundance in most parts, and thrive exceeding well, forming an important article of food. These are all to be bought either for money, strong cotton shirts, cotton dresses, plain cotton, knives, tobacco, mother-of-pearl jacket buttons for ornamenting their blankets, or any of the articles commonly bartered among aborigines. The blanket is now, however, a recognised currency. Bears are numerous, also martens, sea and land otters, which are caught for their furs, and mostly taken to the Hudson Bay Company's establishment at fort Simpson, Caution. — From April to October the sheu fish are said by the natives to be poisonous. 550 ii I! s: I o S5 o PQ o P m W I 03 O M W m oq o GO M M m s » hJ o « , Ph ;z5 n » h^l ^ ■^ » rj o < o m EH o i o o w H W n •3 a as 5 • •830 J bABQ jo Oii - •saiDO BAiiu i" OM a •^ o u* ?; » . 2 & C3 a a o - J V- is O A -s. . .0 - c ■ l_ a: rt g o c ft " & ■ is a - i H - W *^ ;^; _ •A)!'''"l>\\ Apnoji OfllU.lAV 6 -A. 11 Tl CS CO ,^ -^ ..'. y.o. "■ rH 1— < 1— ( r-* ^ tr t: H TO CO O a ^ ? C^ >o »- M 1- CO ^i: S Tl TI (X o I— t o o o '-' CJ . -. •^ •juuoniv m.vn^ « t- I-- f lO -^ M CO lO CO t- t- m '01 o; •spnoio B 00 71 CI o h- O irt Cl Cl Cl Cl SJ 00 H ?3 CO ■^ *t< '<9« t< eo Cl M P3 ti o in o o o c> •^ C3 t- 00 o o in S P S oo t-- r- lA E-i C >.^ ' ' : 1 1 1 i I 1 j 1 1 1 1 g lO 1^ o f-H M to -X) CO t2 o rH Ci t- ° K ^ eo Of, CI ^ ^H s "^ T lO in m m Tf -^ ■* cflj? ■dau«ij a 1 1 1 1 , 1 1 1 I 1 ! 1 , Woo |1" oinoj)xa h-( ' cS -» ^ s ca tc |I 05 QO <3 Ci C5 OS o Oi a> <=> T^ o 03 ai c; ci ?? ^e M d c^l CH ffC '.\ Cl W Cl i'^i . 1 CO Cl 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 u 1 IH -d ! J 1 1 1 1 a 1 1 1 a & GO a > e o Q m c3 551 ember October meter s for one only. § « ■w o O ^. © a c3 -j 4, M a •aao^I sXtiQ JO -ox O t-i EH < I •BB[130 SiDCHO ox 1 1 ^i ~" — > ~ OQ ?t m o t'. J 1 J3 1 Es a ) 02 a ■A - 1 — ^ g (3 o ■- -• ♦J 1 ^s-» o ^ yj g 'rA K < K ^ E — ' o w a Ol > o a (3 crj o i5 6 /, W 3 , ^ « /I 1 -- 1 •XliooiJA X[.nioii c .i:1i> rn \ ij- / ^ . — A cc — — • . ■'i C7' fci :^ ° " E T m 3> r- 1- 1 - rc o c- - •*' ■«! § -«! ,, , ^ H-I rt;:^ >. 3 § ? ? ? 53 S ?^ l-H » Cl ^ H^ M r-S ?1 M r^ O W w o •^ CI CO ^ ^ <] •Uiiioinv uv.o-pi t 1 ' ; 1 1 1 X '()[ oj 'spuoio 1 1 1 I 1 1 ! l-N o H 31 CO to O Oi o n C'l CO CO I' so CO 00 CO ^ ^ Cl CI 00 CD l^g. « rt -^ ° '=5 ^ »- ^» o o a- no 00 '•ri CO m 00 " V ry tn i-( M 3% 5 ^ cb &4 R p. CI F-H CI lO ?1 o I— t r-i o 1^ o s s o rt rt r- oo ->* CO CO • ^ in lo lO lO in -* Tf ■^ 1— 1 ^ KS-'S ■o3ut!}X S 1 1 1 i 1 1 1 tf H SoS am.uixa 1 1 1 ! 1 1 o o ^ 7J OC t|^ CO OO 00 § §3 00 4 » O o GO 'S oB «2§ C r; -T. cr> ci OS v-t n -M n ci CI ?, S ?, g o CO g^ ?, ?l 1 ■J 1 i 1 1 1 I 1 § "S ^ » .2 ^ h S •< a 1 1 pi u 53 o o 1 ■d l( 552 03 !2! O M H > n o > o ro '^ n &■- w ^" o o I-:; fH Pi 3 O o <1 w .•/: ►:) K pq o <1 H »q «J o • M « r4 o o ^H Pi S o ^ pq S] H ^ ;z5 O a i •823^ HittlQ .10 OX , . , ' ■ 1 . •801110 Si^VQ JO 'OX 1 1 : i 1 i 1 - III 1 1 C>1 CO to m r- ii:^ 1- ^ cs 1- ^ j: ^^ _ _ ^H => ~. o -H o o r-* Tl .. H >'< - is' CO M n 1— ' - - - = .— I -^ 71 71 — 2 p:' ^ „ ,^ -r -r cc ,_ ■^ ^ — M •M4 ,-. — X rf. 3 Q ro ,. OC f^ P-* d _ r ro ,, >* '•ri r- 1 i-H 1 - ^^ - ^^ .S w m^ ■-r .- • r -1 rr. 'A cc » ^ ir^ 00 1* ir. -f 71 -r ''■ -r -r fS P4 ♦f Tl ^ ^ '>\ _ ^ ri !C 71 ,- •o ^_ >'< Xi o ' - - - =. O - r- ' -- - - ■X'4!.u>|,iA Aimiuii 1 1 1 1 1 t 1 1 1 OitTUOAV crj . .° '-s ^ i -f 'r T. -^ .*. 71 •/: — ^, i- 1 . ■» -*• 1— 1 q5 ^ •Zi ■ >. -♦« » _ — ., _ ^_, c cc oj CO cc C-- o 7i »H to ■•O (—1 p in '" Ift -r: 71 fit ^1 71 M \'~i 1- !S •K.11!3X ' uiiioiuv ui!,i]\; - I- 1- ir. ^ CO IC^ l". h- •-0 1 - 1 - - '01 o)n'>'pu()ir) Q ■M .. ,^ _ . _ -"1 ._ M / f— < 71 K "^ 3 ►< i a o 1 - •Jl -■n C" I-H iC eo O a. ^ H ?^=-' '— uL 00 30 X I-- "■ CS £^ C 0. o ' t i 1 1 I 1 1 1 1 ] 1 a ^Qc?- H S^ S rj ro -r cc X T 71 -o X rK «: -r iC -X -f -r P.>- i» .3 --J ■«.iu.)A r, _ ■^ 1 - _ -f 71 -mS •o3at)ji .)mo.iixa -r « o r- m -r Ji; ?' So 5 ■"• '"' 1— ' - o — - - '* ^~ — *^ 'J- m2§ r ' t " 3C : 1 " hi " :/. O =:^ ^ o ^ 31 o 9^ 3i '■^ O o as C: c: o c: ro CO CO cc n CI w; 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 f k. 1 ':3 n >y e: , ^ u ^ S^ »► 3 ^ a 4 tl 1 p. 1 a •-3 •-5 -f. o 1 a o s 553 INDEX. Atli inlet AultaiihaKh inlet Aboritrines Acapulco Actreon sound Acland islands Active cove pass, caution . directions, light , tides ... point... Ada island rock Addenbrooke island Admiral island Admiralty bay head, light, position inlet , description Agamemnon channel Agate passage Ahousat village Aktese village Alarm rock, Canaveral port , Stuart Channel Alaska Alberni canal Albert head ... Alden bank, buoy point, light Alder island Aldrich point Alert bay, tides Alexander point, .lervis inlet , Kenneth passage port Alexandra passage, Milbank sound , Smith sound ... patch Alford reefs, buoy Alice arm — ^ rock Page. ... .")2(i . 43(1 2 ... 21 ... 21(1 ... 12.5 ... 142 ... 128 ... 129 ... 130 ... 123 ... 1!I5 ... 3!).-) ... 401 113,11,5 ... 3i» 3S :\r> ... :w ... 21!) ... 4t) ... 33t) ... 3(;t) ... 48!l ... 121 ...17,18 ... 31!) ... 7.5 ... 1()8 ... lOB ... 524 ... 41!) ... 265 ... 220 2!)2 304 424 3i)3 451 453 50!) 510 Alison sound... All Alone stone Allan islands Allen bank ... point. Possession sound Allit'ord bay ... Alpha bay , anchorage, tides islet passage Alton island ... American lake Amphitrite point Anacortes Anchor bay ... bight cone cove, Skidegate inlet islands, Takush harbour . , Treadwell bay , mountain Anchorage island • — patch Anderson island Anderson's wharf Angelas point port... , light, fog signal, storm signals, tides Angerisland Ann island Annacis island, tide gauge Annas bay Anne cape Annette creek ... Annie rocks Anthony island Anthracite coal Anvil island Apple T-ee cove Apples i.<land Arachne reef.. 3(fl( 523 IflO .53 '17 r.3 1 502 503 88 331 22!) t;i 332 1«3 421 3<)(; 438 535 3!)(; 2!)8 503 374 4fi4 tiO 328 32 32 33 489 3!)4 176 «itt 31)7 127 2!)6 520 535 212 45 271 112 554 Arbutus island, Lopez Hound islet point Archibald point Aristazablo island ... Arnold rock ... Armour rock ... Arran rapids Arrow passage Arrowsmith mount... Arthur island passage Atkins cove ... reef Atkinson island point, light Augusta port, directions Auriol point Ayers point INDEX. Page. ... HH ... IIU ... lot; ... 410 471t, 4'.lfi ... 3r.fi ... 454 ... 240 ... 280 ... 11»!» ... 4(W ... 442 ... HH2 ... i:u ... 287 ... 17S» ... 21)5 ... 450 66 Baaddah point, light Bahine lake Bag harbour Bainbridge island Bajo pjint rtof, point Baker inlet island passage, tides Balaklava island Balch passage Ball cape Ballinac channel, islands ... Balmoral settlement Bamber point Barafield creek islands Banks island ... reef Banton island Bar rooks, buoy Barclay sound , tide , directions ...322, ■ valley Bardswell group , position ... Bare hill, Gilford island ... , McLaughlin bay... island, Clayoquot sound ... 30 ... 445 ... 523 ...46,47 ... 351 ... 346 ... 440 ... 281 ... 226 ... 303 ... 60 .. 537 ... 197 ... 447 ... 285 ... 316 ... 443 487, 41)8 ... 371 ... 320 ... 534 ... 315 ... 316 329, 333 ... 512 ... 413 ... 4!)6 ... 285 ... 410 ... 335 Bare island, Ilaro strait , Miners channel , rock ; Nuchatlitz inlet , Tree-nob group islands islet, Forward inlet , Harwood island . Klaskish inlet , Klewniiggit inlet , Skidogato inlet ... , Spioden channel village island ■ point, light rock, Farewell harbour , Milback sound , Seaforth channel Bo reside mountain Barfleur passage Bargain harbour Barlandn bay... Barnard cove... Barnes island Barren rock ... Barrier islands Smith sound Page. 92 108 353 ... 469 .. 216 ... 378 ... 223 ... 372 ... 437 ... 534 ... 101 ... 536 ... 119 ... 272 ... 417 ... 415 ... 503 ... 212 ... 218 ... 2.30 ... 484 144,167 ... 293 ... 360 ... 395 ... 295 ... 366 ... 835 ... 269 ... 42 201, 203 ... 342 Barry islet Barter cove Bartlctt island Baronet passajje Basalt point Base flat, beacon point, Clayoquot , North arm 33(1 Basil lump 450 Bass rock ... ... 468 Bate passage . .. ... 305 Batt bluff 273 Battery point, light 52 Battle bay 3ii9 Bauza cove 254 Bay islands 471 islet 513 Baynes channel 89 mount 124 sound ... 199 . beacons, buoys, light 200 , directions 201 Bawden bay .. 340 Beaching place, Browning port ... 97 , Careen creek ... 146 , Drayton harbour 169 , Nanaimo .. ... 190 , Nanoose harbour 196 INDEX. 555 Page. ... »2 ... lOS [et 3S.3 ... 4f)9 .. 216 ... 378 ... 22.S ... 372 .. 437 .. 534 .. 101 .. 536 .. 119 .. 272 .. 417 . 416 . 503 . 212 . 218 . 230 . 484 i4, 167 21)3 300 395 295 3(i6 335 269 42 ,203 342 33t; 4.50 468 305 273 52 3ii9 254 471 513 89 124 199 too !0] 40 97 46 69 90 96 Beacon hill rock, Nanaimo , Squally reach Beak point Bealo cape, caution, light, poaition BeaU point Bear river, Bedwnll Bound , Portland canal Bear Skin bay Beaufort range Beaver cove creek, tide harbour , directionn, poaition , tides ledge, Laredo channel passage, O^den channel ... , Smith sound Page. Beaching place, Vancouver harbour 182 ' , Welcome harbour 493 86 189 116 203 315 54 .S37 515 533 206 263 244 267 268 269 481 501 393 111 125 470 252 82 72 74 441 72 206 185 99 379 337 234 206 72 74 300 425 411 98 162 289 462 164 164 point. Admiral island , Gauges harbour rock, Brown passage , Discovery passage , Victoria harbour Becher bay tides Bedford island, spit islands valley Bedwell bay harbour islets sound Bee islets Beecher mount Beecheyhead , tides Belize inlet Bell peak Bella Bella islands Belle chain islets rock, buoy Belleisle sound Belletti point Bellingham bay, buoys, light , coal channel, directions, light Felmont point Bolu Kula, river, tides Benjamin group Benson point Bentinuk arms island Berkeley mount Berry cove creek island point, Fly basin — , Georgia strait — , Kyn\unpt harbour ^ Swindle island Bertie rock Bessborou{,'h bay Beware passage Biokley bay Big bay , directions — river Biijht cone cove Bigsby inlet Bill of Orcas Birch bay Bird cove ... — island ... islet ... islets, Barclay sound ... reef rock , Moss passage ... , Rosario strait ... Bird's-eye cove lUrnie island Bischolf islands Bishop cove Birthday channel . Black bluflF islets ... 1(;3 354 406 283 354 — patch — rock, beacon , Barclay sound... , Eaperanza inlet , Rayner group ... , Rivers inlet ... , Squally channel rocks, buoys Blackberry islets Blackfish sound Blackrock point Blair inlet mount ... Blake island ... Blakely island Page. ... 4u6 ... 74 ... 257 . . 288 ... 415 ... 271 ... 396 ... 186 ... 414 ... 426 ... 394 ... 257 ... 273 ... 242 ... 458 ... J. 59 ... 65 346,351 ... 382 ... 527 ... 153 ... 168 ... 238 ... 4U0 ... 110 ... 328 ... 119 ... 151 ... 423 ... 162 ... 117 ... 4t)2 ... 525 ... 432 ... 3,58 ... 266 ... 149 ... 148 ... 330 ... 163 ... 328 ... 356 ... 293 ... 401 ... 483 ... 191 ... 339 ... 271 ... 483 ... 415 ... 277 ... 53 ... 148 4 556 INDEX. k Blakoly porh, diroutioriH ... rock Blakoney inlet, Calvert iHlnml pUHHa((0 ■ , Smith Houiid port directions, tidew Bligh island Wind bay, Harnoy channel , Jervis inlet creek entrance, Kyuqtiot sciund .. reef, Espuranza inlet , Sealed pasfatje ... Blinder rook Blinkinsop V)ay Blockhead islet islets Blosaom point Blount rock Bloxham island, shoal passage point Blue Jay cove point .. BluflF point, Collison bay , Laredo channel , Portland canal , Stephens port , Welcome harbour Blunden bay harbour, anchorage, direc tions, tides island . Clayoquot sound.. 4« 4fl 4<J1 , HU . :»;».-> . 121 , 422 , \^r, . 220 22»; 3«2 'AW . 48«> . 2.-.S 483 27« 487 483 2!K) 441 443 Sltfi .-.22 -.14 .-.21 4M(» .-.13 488 493 3'Jl BolknH iHlandn Bond Honnd ... Bonila island passage point Blunt island, beacon, light Blyth islet Boat basin cove, Milbank sound ... , Quatsino sound .. harbour ., shelter Boatswain bank Boca del Infierno Bold bluff , Quatsino sound... , Southgate islands head islet Bolin point 293 97 335 ... 281 ... 195 ... 158 ... 303 ... 344 ... 419 376, 379 ... 2fil ... 375 ... 114 ... 347 ... 117 ... 376 ... 296 ... 231 . . 350 ... 46 IMMition point Bon wick i.sland islands Boot cove Booker lagoon Boot i.tland Boston islands Bon^rhey bay Boulder, The bank head, le<lne point , Departure hay . Malcolm island , Neville port , Squirrel cove reef, buoy ... , Sutil channel 16f Boundary bay, anchorage , directions bluff , British Columbia mark rock Boyle i- iid ; at BoylcM int , position Boys rock Bowen island Bowj-er island Boxer point reach Brace point Bradley point Branham island Breaker group, ledge islets, Otter paasage point, reef ... , Estevan island reef ... Breezy point ... Bremner island islet Breton islets ... Bribery island Bridge river ... Bright island, Storm islands Takush harbour islet Page. .-.21 284 4U!I :.oo 313 279 2113 98 282 408 477 260 .'■.7 418 418 117 191 2(i6 2.-.9 227 166 235 170 ... 170 1 ... 170 ... 229 ... :u»7 ... 202 ... 286 ... 292 ... 502 179,211 ... 211 ... 304 ... 4.32 ... 52 ... 288 ... 296 ... 492 ... 498 ... 486 ... 497 ... 306 .. 513 ... 295 ... 301 ... 237 ... 444 ... 174 ... 309 ... 396 ... 308 INUKX :.r)7 ■{risdo |Miiiit ... liriti^i Cidiiiuliia, rtlxtriuim'.-i , liomiilary , oo«il , cliinate , coniimmicivtionH , currontrt , (loi;kn ... , f"b"« . foi'i'strt , fur trivlo — — , pi'iicral ruiimrkH , iof , inner paxwvgos . kelp , ocean j)aHna|?<!s , pilots ... Pn fn\ 112 2 1. 170 2 I ;< 11 , iiojmlation , products , railways . rainfall -^ resoue stations , Binokes ... , stiindard time ., , statisul • storm sijriials ... t'ele!,'nii)lis titles uniform ludvaKO winds Brockton island point, beacons ... , light Brotlie rock , Chatham sound , Principe channel Broken channel i?roup, Barchiy sound , Ijueen's sound islands -, Johnstone strait point Brooke Lsland Brooks bay, peninsula Brotchy ledge, beacon, buoy Brothers island Broughton archipelago island strait , directions , tides Brown island, Friday harbour , George harbour 2 1 i; 1('> 1*'. IM 2 I 1 4 (1 :< 7 2 !.•> 4 \2 14 ,s 181 ls-_> ,S(i 474 4SM :{;i4 4 <.!.-> 2:n 2<)0 1.12 .■)0i, 371 82 H2 2()".) 285 2(;2 2(11! 2f):$ isst 2;n llrown iriland. Smith sound . Wasp ii-lands narrows passayfe , directions, tides , point, light Browne mount Browning creek entrance, Ogden channel i'*lunds ... passage, Clayoquot sound . Oolotas channel , Smith Bimnd ... port rock Bruce mount point ... Bruin l)ay Buccaneer bay, caution Buccleuch point Buck point Ihickingham island ... Buckland point Bi\(hl inlet, directions, tides Budds harbour Bulkeley island Bull harbour, tides ... passage point rock, Chain islands ... rock, (^uatsi no sound ... BuUey bay Bullock bluff channel BunsV)y islands Buoyage Burdwood bay grouj) Burgess island islet, Hecate passage passage Burgoyne bay Burial islet Burke channel Burlo island JUirnaby island j-hoal, buoy strait Burnt hill Burnt-cliff island Burrard inlet, light , directions ... li''lits Pog»', I.-. I I ;•.» 170 *)5 , 28(1 . ;i7'» 21)4 ;t:ii» M04 :i!t5 '.•7 2tl() 121 2."<:i 217 2'.t.". .-,4:. 2 '.•2 182 O.'i . . :{4 ... 2r.t; ... ;io6 ... 21(i ... :<!»(! ... .S25 ... ;i82 ... 42.1 ... 228 ... 407 ... :{ti8 14 ... 2:{8 ... 28:$ ... 2;t:t ... xw, ... 2.-.;i ... 117 ... 117 ... 404 ... :U(! ... -.24 . . 182 ... .122 ... 378 ... 45!> ... 179 181, 183 558 Burrard inlet, anchorasro. pilots, tides... Burrows bay, light, island ■ , anchorage, directions, tides IXDRX. island Burwood point Bush islet. Canaveral port... islets point, light ... , Seaforth channel , Sunday harbour rock Bute inlet, tides . directions Butler cove, buoy ... Biitterworth rocks ... Cactus islands Cadboro bay point Calamity bay.. Call creek Callam bay Callao... Oalm channel, tides creek Calver cape Calvert cape, island, position point Camano head, island Campbell island river Cameleon harbour, tides ... Camp bay , Retreat passage cove island -, Lama passage Page. 18f) 160 ir,i 150 345 4W 275 41 415 280 522 240 241 (!3 40!) — islet, Whale channel... — point, Coghlan anchorage — , Johnstone strait , Klewnuggit inlet — , Portland canal Canal bight ... Canaveral port -, directions, tides ... 101 ... 86 ... 89 . . 498 ... 260 ... 31 ... 10 ... 239 ... 336 ... 74 398. 491 ... 440 ... 68 ... 412 ... 248 ... 253 ... 99 ... 278 ... 155 ... 285 ... 410 ... 484 ... 435 ... 25,'"> ... 439 ... 512 ... 410 ... 489 ... 490 Canoe flat island , Hechart channel ... islet, Principe channel passage, Blackfish sound ... reef rock. Smith sound .. , Queen Charlotte sound rocirs, beacon Cape islet range ... Capstan island Captain Cook Captain island passage Car berry bay Cardena bay ... Cardero channel -, anchorage, caution -, tides Cardigan rocks Careen creek Carmanah, light, position , rescue and signal station Carolina channel Caroline reef ... Carpenter bay Carpenter's rock Carr inlet ... islet ... Carriden bay ... Carrington bay reefB Carter bay -, caution, anchorage, tides point Cartwright sound Cascade bay ... inlet... range Case inlet sandbank Castle island islets point Catala island Cat-face mountains ... Catherine point Cattle island! point, light ... Cavendish rock Caution, Active pais , Bucaneer bay Page. 506 146 328 4at> 273 342 394 398 ... 112 .. 470 ... 398 ... 327 344, 348 ... 221 ... 126 ... 230 ... 442 ... 241 242 243 303 146 313 314 331 88 520 189 60 454 291 230 491 427 428 ... 163 ... 533 ... 166 ... 409 ... 50 ...61,66 ... 65 ... 169 ... 329 ... 308 ... 356 ... 336 ... 619 ... 268 ... 137 ... 229 ... 128 .. 217 INDEX. 559 Caution cape, position , Cardero channel , Carter bay ... , Chain iHlanda . Chatham Hound , Clayoquot sound — , Commerell cape , Danger rock — , Edi^e passage , Enfield rock ■ , Forward bay , Gabriola reefs , Gander group — , Ilavannah channel • — —-, Haro strait , Klaskino inlet , Klaskish inlet — , Lazo cape ... — point. Middle channel — , Nass bay Page. . 389 . 242 ,. 428 ,. 325 .. 4,-.0 .. 340 .. 310 .. 104 .. 4Ci8 .. 4, -.3 .. 2(;i .. ISO .. 497 .. 2G0 .. 93 .. 373 ... 372 .. 210 .. 140 .. 507 . navitjfating Inner channels 1«, 26 3.V2 549 2SG . 133 , Nuchatlitz inlet ... , poisonous fish , Polkinghorne islands , Portier pass . Quatsino sound to Cape Scott 387 ■ — . Race passage 74 rock 299 , Scott cape 310, 311 , Sea Otter group .391 , Skeena river 44.1 , St. John harbour 421 , Tohnie channel 42S , Vancouver island, West Coast , Warrior rocks , White rock Central island, Smith sound Cecil islet , Greenway sound patch rock ... , Fulford harbour' Celiareef Centre island, Burnaby strait , Esperanza inlet , Howe sound... , Shadwell passage islet. Camp island ... , Frigate bay ... Centre reef. Alpha passage... - — — , Clam bay ^ Spietlen channel rock -, Drury inlet ... -, Twins islands... Cha-che Kwas islands Chacon cape ... Chance rock ... Chancellor cliannel Chain islands, caution, Barclay sound , Ganges harbour ... ~ islets , Chalmers anchorage Chambers creek Cliamiss bay ... Chaunel group, Ogden channel island. Baronet passage .. , Gardner channel.. islands, Laredo channel .. island, Spiccr island . Toba inlet Page ... 331 ... 133 ... 101 X'J ... 291 ... 220 ... 49f', ... 47.-) ... 4(10 243, 2r)t; point, Stephen's port 312, 333 ... 4()8 ... 1(14 ... 395 ... 273 ... 288 ... 444 ... 114 ... 124 ... Ill ... 524 ... .^57 ... 212 305 235 399 488 , Ucluelet arm islands, Dundas group islet islets, Ganges harbour ", Pender harbour point reef, Barclay sound ; Eliza port ... , Sea Otter group , S(iually channel reefs, Klaskino inlet I'ock, Barclay sound , Island harbour , Laredo channel . Neville port recks. Barclay sound , Kyufiuot sound 258 Chapman point Charles island, Mackaye harbour... , Pender harbour ... . Trincomali channel Charles point , Blunden harbour , Cooper inlet... , Farewell harbour — rocks... Charlie islets... Charlotte bay Chart islet ... Chatohaunel point 325 12(i 87 443 t'lO 3(;i .-.()i 270 432 »81 501 233 332 473 III 125 219 8.S 323 358 390 482 374 329 327 481 259 318 .'.64 457 145 219 131 100 293 410 271 128 2(!8 299 273 3C2 ^1 i 5(50 IKDEX. Chatfield island Chatham channel islands point, position sound, landmarks strait Chaune island Cheek squintz Ch eltenham waters ... Chemainus bay, anchorage Cherry point ... Choslakee Chester port ... Chibadehl rocks Chick reefs ... r'hief rock Chimikim creek Chismore passage ... Choked passage , Starfish group Cihop bay Christie bay ... islands passage Chroustchetf cape ... Church point City of Feattle rock, buoy Olipperton island Cloak bry Clock rock Clover point, telegraph Clown rock ... Cluster reefs Clahoose Clallam point Clam bay , directions... - island Clan Ninick harbour , directions Clapp passage Clara islet Clarence strait Clark island point Clarke reefs rocks ... Classet cape Claydon bay Clayoquot settlement sound , caution ... , directioDB Page. ... 41. S 2fil.27C ... 2r.2 ... 41!) ... 18 ... 242 ... 420 .. 4:J2 ... ll'.t ... 114 ... 268 18 ... 27 ... :)71 ... :i67 ... 40 ... 443 .. 4()4 ... 4l»:5 ... 275 ... (17 ... 501 ... 3o;i ... r>n ... 72 ... lO.S ... lil ... 543 ... 275 85 ... 490 ... 31)4 ... 222 ... 35 ... 133 ... 134 ... 404 ... 3(i5 3f.7 27(i 368 18 167 163 372 l!t3 26 291 337 333 340 341 Clayoquot sound, tides Clement's city Clements reef Cliff island, Alexandra pnssage . Millbank sound , Wasp islands ... - — — islands ... islets, Principe channel point. Banks island ... — — . Portland canal inlet . Clifton village Climate ... Clio bay ... channel ... Coach islands... Coal , Departure bay , Esqiiimalt harbour ... harbour. Burrard inlet . Quotsino sound island , Kitsagatla , Xanaimo . New Wentminster point, Deep cove . Seattle , Simpson port ... , Skidegate inlet , Tacoma . Vancouver harbour ... , Victoria Ci)ast islet mound... nipple Ccastcr channel Cochrane islands Cockatrice bay Cockburn cape Cod bank Chatham sound... Seaforth channel reefs, Blakeney port ... ?Iiners channels Codf.sh passage rock Coffin islet, Hecate cove ... , Oyster harbour Coghlan anchorage , tides ... rook, Dundas island rock, Boyal bay ... Colburue passage Cole bay Pago. ... 331 ... 477 ... 143 ... 424 ... 410 ... 151 ... 4o;t ... 48>t ... 4!t',i ... 514 ... ,505 ... 66 4 ... 433 270,273 ... 28ii 2 ... lill 80 ... 171) ... 384 ... 11(1 ... 448 ... l!)ii ... I7.S ... 113 ... 51 ... 463 ... .535 56 ... IS! ... 83 ... 446 ... 472 ... 38!) ... 326 ... 22!) ... 286 ... 221 ... 477 ... 415 ... 421 109, 110 ... 495 ... 493 ... 382 ... 119 ... 435 ... 436 ... 473 ... 75 ... Ill ... 114 INDEX. 561 ngo- 3;m 477 143 424 410 151 4o:< 4 Sit 4!l<.) r)i4 505 ()(> 4 iM .,27:5 28»i 2 I'.tl SO 171» 881 110 448 19(1 17.S ii:{ 51 463 535 5(i ISl 83 44(> 472 389 32(5 22!> iM 221 477 415 110 495 493 382 119 435 43(i 473 75 111 114 CoUingwood channel Collison bay ... Columbia river Colville cape, island... Colvos passage rocks Col'ivood islet Comber rock Comet island Commencement bay, tides Commorell cape . position Communications Comox settlement ... Compania island islands, sound Company point Compton island Portland inlet Conconi reef Cone island , Finlayson channel ... islet. Block islets islets mountain, Princess Royal island Connel islands ... Connis rock, Beaver passage rocks Page. . 212 . 521 . 173 . 159 , 50 . 44 . 353 .. 399 ,. 109 5(i .. 302 .. 303 3 .. 205 .. 485 .. 482 .. 71 .. 271 .. 504 ... 98 .. 342 .. 425 ,.. 498 ... 163 Constance bank cove Constitution mount... Conuma jK'ak Coode peninsula Cook cape, position .. strait Cooper inlet, Queen Charlotte sound , San Juan port point reach reef 479 472 502 474 91 7 ... 1.53 345,349 ... •■-28 7(;, Copper island islands Cordova channel Cormorant bay ishiHd pass rock Corona shoal ... Cortes island... Cosby point ... Cottam reef .. SO 11948 371 23 410 70 62 243 112 319 521 107 96 265 60 2(i8 442 233 243 198 Courtenay river Cousins inlet Cove island Cowitchin harbour head Cowgitz coal mine Cowlitz bay .. Cox island point, Clayo<iuot sound , Estevan island ... Cracroft island Craig rock Cramer passage Crane island islets Craven rock Crawford anchorage Crescent bay , inlet point Crib island Crickitt bay Cridge islands passage Crispin rock ... Croker island point rock Cross islet, Malaspina inlet , Portland canal .. point, ledge Crown islets ... Cruice rock ... CuUeet river CuUen harbour tides Cultus bay ... Gumming point Cumshewa inlet islands, rocks, village., Cunningham island passage Curlew rock Current passage point Currents Curtis point, Estevan island — , O'Brien bay .. Cushman lake Custom house point Cutter creek ... Cuttle group Page. 206, 206 ... 408 ... 279 ... 116 96, 107 ... 535 ... 104 ... 810 ... 334 ... 498 ... 262 ... 476 ... 278 ... i:i ... 307 ... 41 ... 242 ... 32 ... .528 ... 123 ... 280 ... 320 ... 4.53 ... 483 ... 97 ... 185 ... 97 ... 303 ... 229 ... 512 ... 418 ... 148 ... 444 ... 376 282 ... 283 ... 43 ... 431 ... 520 ... 531 532 ... 112 ... 462 ... 4.58 ... 256 ... 298 ... 11 ... 498 .. 284 ... 66 ... 406 ... 276 ... 3(;8 2 N 562 INDEX. Page. Cypress bay 33(5 harbour, anchorage, tides... 2S8 island 163,164 -islands 412 reef IGii Dabop bay 63,65 Daedalus passage 268 Dalco point, passage 57 Dalkeith point 297 Dall patch, buoy 414 Dallas bank, shoal, buoy 35 mount 102 Dana inlet 530 passage... 62 Danger patch, Klemtoo passage ... 426 — — reef, Stuart channel ... 121 rock, Barclay sound ... 323 ■; , caution 104 , Douglas channel ... 141 , Nuchatlitz inlet ... 352 377 — rocks, Quatsino sound ... , Queen Charlotte islands — shoal, buoy , Sea Otter group Danube rock Darcy island ... , Sidney channel point Dark cove islet- Darwin sound -, tides... Dash iwint Davenport point David channel rock Davidson island ro(jk, buoy Da vies point Davis bay slough, buoys Dawamish river Dawes' point, rock .. Dawson harbour ledge, point -, Farrant island , 517 101 300 535 92 107 256 221 490 526 527 55 437 484 330 294 282 159 510 160 68 55 4.-):{ 546 435 Day island, anchoratje point Dayman island De Chutes' river — Courc,V islands ... — la Beche inlet ... — Horsey islands ... Dead Tree point Deadman islet Dean channel Dean's point Decatur island reef, buoy ... Deception channel ... pass, light 40( -, Clayoquot sound Decision cape Deer creek harbour island, Beaver harbour , Lama passage islands, Barclay sound lagoon passage. Calm channel , Seaforth channel point , Principe channel Deep bay cove Desolation sound , St. John's harbour • , Howe sound harbour, Fife sound ... inlet pass, Hecate passage ... patch, Edye passage ... sea bluff Water bay Defeat point ... Defender shoal Defiance point Deluge point ■Demock point Denman island Dennis rock ... Denny island Dent island mountain Denny rock Departure bay, buoys, coal , directions Derby point town Page. . 68 . 417 . 123 . 63 . 135 . 625 . 446 . 634 .. 487 ,408 .. 470 .. 148 .. 49 .. 337 67, 161 339 18 ... 339 ... 1.-.3 ... 267 ... 412 ... 317 ... 42 ... 239 ... 413 ... 120 ... 487 ... 202 ... 2:u ... 421 113,114 ... 211 ... 283 ... 362 ... 336 ... 468 ... 284 ... 251 ... 414 ... 249 ... .58 ... 521 ... 69 ... 199 ... Itil ... 409 ... 242 ... 612 ... .392 ... 191 ... 192 ... 217 ... 178 i 1 INDEX. 563 283 362 !?3ti 468 284 251 14 249 8 r>2i 6l» l'.»V» Itil 4()'» 242 512 392 191 192 217 178 Deserted bay creek Deserter's islands Desolation sound ... , tide Despair point Destruction island ... , light, fog signal Detached island ... Devastation channel island*.. Devil Rock, Sea Otter group Devil rocks Devil's head point , Aristazable island ... Diamond point Diana island ... Dick mount ... Dicken's point Dickenson islet point Dickerson point Dickson island Digby island Dillon point rock Dimple point... Dinner island, Griffin bay ... islet ... point Disappointment inlet Disrorrvy Discovery island, light passage, supplies , tides... Disney point . port, tides rocks -, Cowlitz bay. Disraeli mount Dixie cove Dixon entrance , tides island... Dobbin bay Docks Dockyard islands Dodd island narrows, directions .. , False narrows , tides passage, Simpson port SO 11948 Page. 221 349 294 231 232 487 25 26 ... 423 ... 482 ... 454 ... 390 ... 475 ... 61 ... 481 ... 497 ... 156 318, 324 ... 215 ... 511 ... 295 ... 265 ... 62 ... 286 446, 452 ... 268 ... 302 ... 490 ... 139 ... r.5 ... 98 ... 337 ... 427 ... 88 ... 245 ... 246 ... 35 ... 417 ... 141 ... 104 ... 510 ... 363 ... 475 ... 477 ... 489 ... 286 3 ... 380 ... .329 193 135 1.35 464 134 Dodd rock Do<lger cove ... Dofflemyer point, light Dog island Dogfish bank, Hecate strait bay , Portland canal Dolomite narrows Dolphin point island, Ogden channel Domville island Don flat island ledge point. Laredo sound ... Donald head Donegal head Doe island Double bluff island, Barclay sound , Departure bay , Esperanza inlet , Laredo sound islands , Clio channel — ■ --, Toba inlet islet point islets, Ragged islands Douglas bay channel, directions , tides Page. . 461 . 324 . 62 . 529 . 539 . 46 . 511 . 523 . 54 . 501 . 109 . 438 . 413 . 486 . 480 .. 288 . 265 ,. 397 . 42 ,. 321 ,. 191 .. 357 .. 480 . 154 .. 270 .. 233 .. 507 .. 225 .. 257 .. 141 .. 142 harbour mount rock ... wharf -, Milbank sound 433. 434 .547 96 253 190 18 417 303 Douglass island Dowerger island Doyle island Drayton harbour, anohorage, direc- tions, tides Drew harbour pass rock Drummond mount Drury inlet Dsoolish bay Ducie island , Chatham sound Duck cove Duckabus river Duff island Dufferin island ... 169 ... 236 ... 239 ... 99 ... 257 ... 290 ... 396 ... 20 ... 473 ... 276 ... 66 ... 282 414,496 5? N2 ■% .■% i; 504 INDBX. Duncan bay • -, directions , Discovery pa8sa<ire , Saratoga passage ' island rock Dundas island islands Dundivan inlet Dunlop point Dunsany jjassage Duntze liead , position rock Dusewallips river ... Dusky cove , tides Duval point, position Duwamish bay, river head, buoy Dye inlet Dyke point, beacon ... E cha chets village Eagle harbour, buoys island, light , Beaver harbour point Page. . 456 . 457 . 248 . (ia . 303 . 27 . 44!) . 471 . 414 . 208 . 292 . 7C , 78 . 28 . 65 . 279 . 280 . 301 . 50 , 52 , 46 77 Earl led{?e East bay. Blakeney port — ^ — cove, Kopriuo harbour Devil rock , entrance point, Hesquiat har hour , entrance reef Haycock island narrows, Skidegate channel.. Orcas sjund passage, Koprino harbour point, light , Gamble port ... , Prevost island ... -, Saratoga passage rock, Nasparti inlet ... , Welcome harbour 334 •*/ 60 267 159 258 422 380 475 344 361 310 546 Easter island Eastern channel, Barclay sound 153, 155 ... 380 ... 105 ... 64 ... 516 ... 68 ... 369 ... 493 ... 20 ... 316 -,di. rections 322 Easy creek Eel reef Echo harbour island islets Eclipse island narrows Ecoole village Ecstall river Eden island point ... .« Edensaw cape Edge reef Edith point, rock Ediz hook, light, fog signal Edmond islands Edmund point '■ Burke channel Edward Rock , Smith sound Edye passage... tides , Effingham inlet port Egg island, rocks . Elbow island, rocks. point... Eld inlet Eldon mount... Eleanor point Eliza dome ... island ... port Elizabeth island , i-ock, Arthur sage peak port Elk bay Ellen bay island Ellerslie channel Ellinor mount Elliot bluff passage point Elliott island point, Portland inlet Ellis bay Elwha river Emily group islet Emma passage pas- Pagre. . 364 . 264 . 627 . 218 . 295 . 482 . 299 . 325 . 447 . 281 . 2.">5 . 541 . 415 . 172 . 33 . 289 . 45 , 404 . 328 . 394 . 467 . 469 . 328 . 326 . 392 . 327 . 115 62 . 254 . 125 . 360 . 164 . 357 . 19 443 444 276 251 127 519 407 66 97 275 67 443 504 299 32 296 86 504 iz r .Ju nK- ts s ei r . ' . : INDEX. 565 End hill Enfield rock, caution English bay, anchorajre, tides En;rli^<h'8 cannery Enterprise channel reef , beacon Entrance anchorajfe bank, Gowlland harbour bluflF, Kemano bay island, light , position ... , Barclay sound ., , Laredo sound , Secret cove , Selwyn inlet , Quatsino sound Page. 487 1.-.:$ ISO 174 85 '.»H '.••J :n8 247 ... rM ... 18(i ... 187 ... 32:{ 479, 4'J() ... 218 .-.80 377 378 117 3.-.(i mountain point, Sansum narrows reef, Esperanza inlet , Qlawdzeet anchorage 471 rock, Nanooae harbour shoal, Lopez Bound Entry cone ledge, Sooke inlet peak Erasmus islands Elrie mount Escalante point Escape reef , caution, Johnstone strait reefs, Big bay Espinosaarm Esperanza inlet , directions .tides Esquimau harbour , anchorage , coal, telegraph, tides, winds , directions, caution , docks, repairs, supplies , navigable depths, lights , position 11»(> 147 3i)8 71 477 242 1.18 34.-. 121 2(51 45!) 3,-)8 354 35!) 3(10 7G 77 Es.sington port, anchorage, suppli ;s , coal, ice, tides ... Estero basin Estevan ledge island, sound point, position Ettti White Ettrick rock 80 78 71) 76 78 447 ... 448 ... 243 ... 486 485, 45)7 ... 344 ... 217 ... 450 Evangeline rock Evans arm ... bay ... point, rock Eveleigh Inland Evening point rock... rocks Everett town... Ewing island Exn geal inlet Exposed iiriu... bay ... Vag9. . 285 , 408 , 2.S8 , 57 232 , 437 , 403 270 (57 , 143 , 440 43!) 41)3 Fair harbour Fairfax point Fairwfvy channel, directions island ... rock , Welcome harbour ... False bay, Clayoriuot sound , Lasqueti island , hopcz sound --—channel ... creek Dunjreness ... light Dodd narrows, beacons, buoys Egg island Grassy islet ... narrows ... reef 121, Scatchet head Stuart anchorage Fane islet Fanny bay reef ... ... ... 257, Faraday island Farewell harbour -, tides cape, ledge Farrant island Fauntleroy cove point Favorite channel Fawn islet Fcarney point Fern cove 3(53 112 187 .358 3G8 41)3 334 21G 148 358 180 32 33 135 393 501 135 123 42 440 97 203 258 525 271 272 435 483 53 149 18 153 219 57 5G6 Ferrer point Fidalgo island, light Fiddle reef, beacon Fife cape sound Fiji Fin island, rock Fingal island, ledges Finlayson arm channel island mount First narrows, directions, tides , Alberni canal Fisgard island; light Fish point rocks Fisher channel Fisherman cove, Fraser reach , Wright sound Fisherman's bay Fishing bay Fitz Hugh sound, tides island Roy reef Five-fathoms shoal... Finger island Flat hill island. Bargain harbour islands ... point, Graham reach ... , Portland inlet .. INDEX. — , Upright channel rock, Mereworth sound — , Houston Stewart channel Flattery cape Page. ... 352 138, Ifil ... 87 ... 537 . . 281 ... 23 ... 483 ... 4!>,-| ... 115 ... 421 ... 460 ... 102 ... 181 ... 321 7(! ... 503 ... 31)5 ... 407 ... 431 ... 435 (i5 ... 156 ... 3!)7 ... 353 ... 491 ... 89 ... 192 .. 467 ... 218 ... 210 ... 429 ... 505 ... 146 ... 300 520 26 ' rocks light, fog signal, signal and telegraph station, position ... Flattop island Flat-top islands, Big bay Flattop mount Fleece rock Fleming port Flora ridge Florence peninsula ... Florencia islet Flores island Flower islet Pot island ... Flowery islet Fly basin 27 25 141 460 378 476 441 277 407 333 340 357 529 533 396 Fog islands rock rocks Fogs, caution, signals Foggy point Folly island Fonto bank Forbes island point, buoy ... Ford point Forests Forsyth joint Fort point Simpson Fortune channel point Forward !iay harbour tides inlet ■ channel 91 Fosdick point Foster island point Foul bay, point bcay, Bank's island islets point, Principe channel Foulweather bluff ... Four Mile rock Fox cape island — - islands — • rock Frances point, shoals, buoys Francis point Frank point Fraser bay reach river , beacons, buoys, direc- tions , ice, tides , light, rise and fall of river, position , navigable depths ... Frazur island Frederic point Frederick arm island - - sound -, Seymour inlet Freeman inlet Page 279 319 407 7 513 400 158 . 330 . 69 . 115 2 . 518 . 50<) . 463 . 338 . 460 . 261 , 256 , 257 . 378 , 186 58, 59 , 282 , 155 , 85 499 , 381 , 489 44 . 50 476 59, 60 297 , 288 , 167 , 218 509 243 430 173 176 177 175 174 72 238 243 545 18 299 153 INDEX. 507 Freeman pass Freke anuhorajjo ■ Freshwater bay , , Blackfish sound., cove Friday harbour Friendly cove, anchoraj^c, direc- tions ... , supplies ... Frigate bay ... Frost island ... Fulford harbour 11 reef -, anuhc rage Fur trade Fury point Page. . 468 . 22H . 32 . 271 . 2.S7 . l.'JS) 3lt'> 347 ;{;»;> 148 4. 124 1 25 Hit 2 480 Gabriola island pass, tides ... reefs, caution Galapagos islands .. Gale creek point Galiano island , Trinconiali nel Galley rock Gallows point Ganibier island Gamble port, directions Gander islands, caution, tidei Ganges harbour , anchorage Gap mountain Garden bay Gardner channel mount port Garry point Gastineau channel ... Gedney island Geneste eone Genn islands Geoffrey mount George cape harbour passage point chan- 111, 171), 18(i l.'JCi 1S(! 22 414 487 304 13U 32!) 188 214 (M 497 12.-) 12() 370 220 432 211 67 176 18 67 257 444 19!) 500 522 282 218 George i)oint, Gooper inlet island, (Joletaa channel reef, lUiiiile passage rock Georgetown Georgia strait, buoys, beacons , caution , general remarks , tides... Georgina point, light , Malaspina inlet Geralil islands Gerrans bay, anchorage Gibraltar island Gibson islands point ... Gibson's landing, llowc sound Gifford peninsula Gig harbour ... Gil island, mount Gilford island Gilles bay Gillies bay ... Gillot rock ... Gladstone mountains Glacier, peak Glendale cove (ilenthorne creek Glimp.sc reefs Gnarled islands, Dundas groups , Takush harbour Goat cove islands Gold harbour river Goldstroam harbour tides rage. ... 410 ... 303 ... 295 ... 3!I4 ... 458 ... 171 171,172 ... 171 ... 173 ... 129 ... 228 ... 197 ... 220 ... 326 ... 441 ... 59 ... 213 228, 229 .58 434, 482 ... 285 ... 215 ... 210 ... 293 ... 515 ... 277 ... 277 ... 127 ... 84 ... 475 ... 395 ... 427 ... 244 ... 547 ... 349 ... 402 ... 403 Goletas channel, position, navigable depths, tides ... , directions Gonzales hill point Good Shelter cove Gooch island Goose ledge island islands spit, beacon Gordon group head Gore island Gordon islets point> Finlayson island ... 301 ... 306 ... 85 ... 86 ... 391 109, 112 ... 497 ... 138 ... 495 201, 205 ... 303 ... 96 ... 349 ... 520 ... 460 1 568 Gordon point, Cormorant iwlmul , (JuUen harliour IflDEX. — river... Oorc rock ... Goiffe harbour , anchorage, tioDH Gor^fOH islands GoBchen inland Gosling rouk.4 Gossip ishind, buoy , lloid harbour Governor rock Page. . iC<'} . 2H2 . 70 . 2S2 . '2U diric- -, buoy Gower point ... (iowlland harbour, island, tides island, ISarulay sound rooks, Wreck bay Grace harbour point Grahnm island reach tides Granite island point , Skincuttlc inlet Grappler reef, buoy creek sound Grass point Grassy island islet, Chatham sound , Seaforth channel point bank, beacon Grave point, Lama passage , Maple bay , Nanaimo Gravel spit Graves port, directions, tides Gravesend reach Great bank Bear islet bend chain islet Race island, light ... Green bank cove head mound inlet islet, Broughton strait , Chatham sound islets ... 2.T) ... 233 •IflM, r.oi ... 4'.t.') ... 128 ... UK) ... 131 ... i;<2 ... 211 ... 247 ... 32<.» ... 333 ... 230 ... HW ... 533 ... 42l> ... 430 .,. 3ti7 ... 2.51 ... .521 ... 122 ... 31(; ... 291 ... 379 ... 32(i ... 450 ... 414 201, 205 ... 409 ... 117 ... 189 ... 148 ... 214 ... 176 ... 329 ... 32« ... 06 ... 87 ... 73 ... 156 ... 320 ... 368 ... 461 ... 429 ... 263 ... 474 ... 218 10 Green islets, r»)rtland canal point, Spieden island Top island Green-top islet, Trincipe chaniiul. Greene point Green way sound Grebe cove Gregory island (Jrenville channol, tides ... Grey islet , Chatham sound... islets rock . . New channel Gribbell island , Metlah Catlah Grief bay point Banks island GrifHn bay mount Grismond point Grouse island Growler cove... Guano rocks Guafjuina arm Guemes channel, island Guide islet, i"tephensport ... islets ... Gull reef rock --, Moresby island ... rocks, Chatham sound Gunboat bay harbour passaj^e, Seaforth chan nel Gunner harbour Pa(,'c. 513 12. 141 451 488 242 288 278 288 437 231 474 399 179 197 307 431 4 55 398 223 498 138 450 243 246 262 486 349 7,163 488 234 101 283 521 4.50 220 441 6 412 339 Haddington island ... Hahama river Haida point Hail islands Hains island Hakai channel, directions passage ... 265 66 ... 154 ... 273 ... 324 ... 492 402, 492 INDEX. ;')(;•.) Halu iiasHn;ro. -, I'utret Houml Half-tide rock , llt'CIl* ' IWMHilK'O ... , Lojier soiuiil lliililmt hank l)iiy, tides ... channel ... rocks ... Hall island [loint ... ... Halntead iKliind ... Hiiinmersley inlet ... island Hammond rock rooks ... nanl)ury islavd ... Ilaiulyside island ... Hankiii ledges, Principe channel... point, McCauley island ... , West OrcaH sound... , Quatsino narrows... reefs, Simpson port rock... Hanmcr rock Hannah rock... ... Hanson island Harbour bank, Canaveral \wTt ... cone ... island ... , Eliza jiort , Klik tso Atli , ledge, Welcome harbour Page. 1C3, 1C.7 ... l.^H ... H.lli ... lis ... -,2Cy ... .--12 ... 'till! ... l!t'.> ... i:i2 ... 2i:{ ... 302 ... G6 ... 2^2 ... 473 ... 70 ... 292 ... 411 41)0 4 'JO 1,-).-. 3S3 4(i3 338 470 3<.)1 21)2 4Si) 271 320 3,VS 411 — reefn, Simpson port — rock, Coghlan anchorage , Griffin bay .. , West Orcas sound .. Harbledown island Hardinge island Hardy baj' ... island Hardwicke island ... Harlenuin ba«in Harney channel Haro strait ... , directions, tides r-, caution , western channels Harriet harbour Harris island islet Harrison river 4i)3 4G4 43.-, 13.S l.-)4 2(J4, 270 ... 253 ... 2()i) ... 220 2.5(5, 25S ... 4U4 ... 1.-.4 ... <J1 ...93 1)5 ... 93 ... 100 ... 522 ... <J0 ... 295 ... 174 Harry point saddle Hartiitene island Harvell point Harvey port , directions, tides Harwood island 2 Hastings arm mill Hat hill — island Hatch point Hattie island llavannah channel, caution Havelock rock Hawkesbury island Hawkins island Hay point Haycock island , Wk bay ... islands Hayes point Haystacks rocks Hazel point Hazelton settlement Head i)uy Headwind point Health bay Heath point Hecate bay channel, Esperanza inlet .. , Queen's sound .. , Seaforth channel cove, (juatsino sound island ... , passage, Barclay sound .. , Discovery islands , Clayoquot sound... reefs, Hecate island rock , Duncan bay .. strait . , tides Hedley patch. Calvert island Hein bank Helby island ... Helen point ... Helmckcn island Helmet island peak... Hemming bay Page. . lis . 47<i . 61 . ;io(> . 2.-)9 . 2(;i 17,223 . 1.S4 . .".ti9 . 1.S2 . 4«!) . 370 . 113 . 512 . 2liO . 451 . 133 . 128 99 . 497 . 45H . 310 . 2HU . 309 05 . 410 . 350 . 4.S7 . 27.S . 307 . 330 . 357 . 495 413 . 3.S2 . 403 . 324 89 . 335 . 492 . 309 . 457 . 53H . 539 . 398 . 491 . 91 . 318 . 128 •>r ;>•) 530 410 252 570 INDEX. Henry hay capo iHliind point FIonHluntr covo, tides Hcplmrii point Herbert arm iHland reefs Hcriot islot Hermit islet Hernando island Henquiat bluff ... harbour, liar , directions, tides Hewitt rock Hewlett bay Heyer point Hi Ellen river Hicaron island IHdiiltro jioint, rock... Hie Kish narrows ... High island High-water rock rocks ... Bonila island Highest island Highway islands Hill island , Barclay sound Hillingilon point Hippa island Ho hoae island Hobbs islet Hodges reef Hodgson reefs, buoy Hoeya sound HolJsworth mount ]lole-in-the-wall channel ... point Holf'. rd islands Holland island point : , Malaspim inlet HoUoway point Holmes bay, anchciig m , tides Homalko river Home island ... Homfray channel Honolulu Hood canal Hood point ... Page. hi! lull 2111 5M i:\H :i»o H2 236 33(1 22.-, :U3 313 34 1 ... 1 28 ... r.J8 5,-) ... :>in ... 22 ... 22.-, ... 428 ... 27lt ... 15.-, ... r.w ... !'.•!» ... •((;! ... lou ... 238 ... 318 ... 228 ... 54.-, ... -m:) ... 33 () ... 412 ... 4-,7 ... 277 ... 2(>3 23!>, 251 ... 344 ... 282 ... 451 ... 82 ... 23(1 ... 381 ... 434 ... 4.35 ... 241 ... 213 ... 232 ... 23 ... 63 ... 211 UmxVu head Hoop reef Ho|Mj island point ... town ... Ho<iper island Hoi)etown pa«sagi! ... Horace point, Forward harbour , Pendril sound Hornby islands point Home lake Hornet passagt Horse rock Horswell bluff, buoys Hoskyn inlet... Hot Spring island, Juan Perez sound springs, Essingtou port , Fisherman cove , Harrison river Page. ... 64 ... 3!ll ... 306 211,214 ... 174 ... 290 ... 292 ... 256 ... 232 ... 109 ... 518 ... 198 ... 284 ... 280 ... 192 ... 237 Hyueii Hyudiil Hotham sound Houlican, defined House isleind ... , Juan Perez sound Houston island passage Stewart channel Howe sound -, anchorage -, directions Hudson island Arrow passago point, buoy , light Hudson's Bay Company station Hulah ledge Hull island Hummock islets ' ... Humphries reef Humphry rock Hundred islands Hunston inlet Hunt iwint Hunter island Huntingford point ... Hurst island Hurtaflo point Huston island Hutt island Hutton inlet Huxley island 525 447 432 174 221 1 278 525 ... 147 122, 132 ... 518 ... 210 ... 212 ... 211 121,123 ... 280 ... 39 ... 40 1 ... 102 ... 160 ... 260 ... 517 .. 331 ... 285 ... 327 ... 522 444, 450 ... 494 ... 249 ... 307 ... 224 ... 280 212,214 ... 524 ... 524 Indian INDEX. :)7i If jiicinlhe liiiy Ilyiidmiut rwl- . 4ir. Ibbetson ciipo, position Ico — , FroMer rivor — , Niiss rivor . Skeona river Icuborjf bay, auuhorage Idol iBlet point ... Imiigu island point Indian cove island, IJull harbour , Clam Ijay ... , Nowish uove islands passage , Fife inlet ... point village, Emiuimalt .. point Ingraham port Inmau point ... Inner Ba.jo reef Bar rock basin channel. Departure bay island Low rock passages, caution Insect island ... Inskip banks ... channel island, rock passage point Inverness Invisible point Iron point rocks Ironsides island Isabel bay island Isabella point Island bay , Burnaby strait l(;7 «; 177 us ,'■.07 122 4ir. •XM r>x\ mil VXl 42:. 275 272 283 1.-.4 7t; C4 545 HI.'} 351 5:54 353 I!I3 52!» 521 k; 281 (U 54(5 77 404 542 ■J4() 538 520 3!)1 3 "J It 230 4, -.5 124 34!) 523 Island cove .., harbour -, tides point, Sunday harliuur Islit point roik Itsauii shoal , buoy Ivory island Jackson bay 1 lassagc ,Ial un river ... James bay ... cape ... island , Rosario strait mount point, Lo\v(^ inlit ... , Quatsino narrows , Saaniuh inkt rock, Smith sound ... Jane creek island ... Java head Jeanotte island Jefferson point Jemmy Jones islet ... Jenkins island Jennis bay ... point Jervis inlet, tides Jesse island ... Pngo. . 331) . 326 . 327 . 280 . 520 , 481 . (il (12 . 415 Joachim island Jocelyn ranjj:e Joe cove Joe Brown's point ... John port, tides rock Johns island ... point ... Johnson channel point, light Johnstone reef strait directions -, tides .. 425 ... 5)2 ... 127 ... 305 ... KK) ... 162 ... 286 ... 438 ... 383 ... 114 ... 31»3 ... 410 ... 42(; ... 2!I4 ... 45 81> .. 21<i ... 2!)1 138, 145 218. 223 ... 258 ... li»l . . 3!l!» ... 418 ... 281 ... 08 ... 408 ... 393 ... 101 ... 242 ... 407 ... 61 ... 96 ... 253 ... 262 ... 254 H 572 Jones island, Middle channel , Miners channel INDEX. point ... Jordan river ... Jorey point Jorkins point Josei)hino islands ... Josling peninsula jioint Juan de Fuca strait , directions Fernandez island Perez sound Judd rock Ju}j island Julia island ... Jumble inland Juniper island Junction island passage point Juni^au Junk ledtic ... Jupiter hills ... - inner channels -, directions, tides • strait, northern shore Ka Kao Kao village... — Ivk'cs la ... — Koosh dish creek — mas ik — pi lish Kagaoj^h Kah tsis ilhi Knkweiken river Kala point Kiunux island Karlukweos village... Kanuutsen lake K'lrslake point Kate island Keats island Keith island, Barclay sound , Drury inlet ... Kelp bar, Baynes sound bay, Barclay sound ... Page. ,. 140 . lot) . 3!)2 . 71 . r.41 . 121 . 228 . 517 . 121 . 24 28 . 85 . 'JO 70 20 524 395 185 i:il 275 28;i 348 325 228 18 4l»!) (14 231 38i» 411 417 398 382 297 285 40 272 273 2(i3 398 280 212 32(i 291 16 204 31(i Kelp hoiid islet, Barclay sound ... passage... patch, Klemtoo pass.ige , Malcolm island Page 394, 397 ... .H21 point , Banks island ... , Goldstream harbour reef, San sum narrows buoy, Baynes sound reel's, llaro strait , beacon rocks, Baronet passage rock, Motlali Catlah , Kellett island, ledge Kelsemart village ... Kema.io bay ... river, tides... Kendrick arm Kennedy island Keinieth passage Kent island Keppel cape ... Kcrouart islets Ketron island Khutze arm ... Khutzeymateen inlet Kilawalaks river Kildala arm ... Kilisut harbour Kilkitc Indians Kilsagatla, coal Kiltik Kinisquit Kin gui isliuid Kincolith, position ... King George sound ... King island ... King islets ... Kingcomc inlet , anchorage nnmntaina point Kingfisher cove Kinghorn island Kinnahan islands ... Kinnaird island Kinkwasan ci "^^ ) Kiokh cove ... Kit a Kt''.izc ... Kit Kia tah inlet Kit lah Kuui Ka dah II] 443 42(; 2()G 117 499 403 ... 116 ,buoy... 117 202 92 9'2 270 454 160 335 432 433 347 442 292 308 ,115 ... i:i7 ... (10 .. 4:;(t r>i)5 ... 508 .. 433 ... 39 ... 547 ... 448 ... 407 ... 4(»9 ... 532 ... 5()G ... 315 317,324 ... 97 ... 288 ... 289 ... 289 ... 431 ... 522 ... 231 ... 451 287, 292 ... 18 ... 277 ... .''OS ... iM ... 508 INDEX 573 Kit mill i ook Kit 3ah watl Kitimat arm, Indians Kititstu hill Kitkatlah villaj^fe Kitlup Indians Kitsoii island... Kitsuinj^^allum river Kittoii island... Kitty islet Kitty natch ... Kiwash island Klahosloh rouk Klas Kwun ])oint rock Klaskino inlet, caution , directions ... , tides Klaskish inlet, caution , directions, tides Klekane arm Klemtoo passage , tides Kle\vniigf;it inlet, directions, tides Klik tso Atli harbour Kino Indian villa^'c Klun Kwoi Lay Knajii) island Knight inlet ... , tidi's Knight island Kno.v cape, position hay , tides — — — point ... Koitlah p,)int KokshiLtle arm Komass hlull" Koprino harbour Kc keemo bay Kuhmkeate ... Kuhushan point Kill tow sis ... Kulleet bay ... Kultus cove Kum ea Ion inlet Kumowadah ... Kan ga island Kuper island ... — — , Inskip channel Kwakshua channel, rock ... Page. . r)OS ,. nus . 4:53 ,. 47'.> ,. 501 .. 4H3 .. 451 .. 44(; .. 3S2 .. .HO ,. 42:} .. 403 .. 31 .. 542 .. 42 . 3 73 .. 374 .. 37.-) .. 372 .. 373 .. 430 .. 42.-. .. 42(; 431! ... 411 ... r.2'.» ... r.2s ... Ill ... 273 274.275 ... 454 • passage ... Kwatna arm ... 54 4 ... 251 ... 255 ... 402 ... 30 ... liC.I ... '207 ... 3S0 ... 381 ... 4!I5 ... 209 ... 537 ... 120 ... 3.'<1 ... 411 ... 437 ... 52'.t ... UK ... 54(5 ... 4!I2 402.4112 ... 405 Kwatsi bay ... Kwinamelith... Kwo niais point Kynumpt harbour Kyuijuot channel sound -, tides directions, tides village Page. . 284 . .-.OS . 170 . 413 . 414 . 3(11 . 3(11 . 3ti5 .. 3t;(J La Conner , light La Perouse ... Labouchere channel -. Dean channel Lachjokiyeht... Lachschatada rock ... Lachspanner islands Lady island ... islands Lagoon cove Lak hou Lak oh witz ... Lake island Lama passage Lamb islet Lambert c' iiel island Lancelot arm Landslip mountain lK)int, Portland i:anal Ijang point ... Langt'or.l jioint port Ill Langley Lanz island .. Larcorn island Laredo channel -, directions, tides sound. -, directions -, tides ... Large Gander island Larkins island . , Lascelles jioint liaskeek bay })oint. village Lasfjueti island • , tides 70 517 21(3 4 OS .50H 470 451 411) 4, 27(5 270 4.5S 451 410 40!) 411 i, 207 2S7 22H 500 514 422 51 S 353 4, 175 310 , 501) , 480 481 , 471) . 4. SO . 481 . 4l»fi . 330 . 2!»7 . 528 . 52!) . 215 . 216 ir 574 Lassiter bay Laura point Laurol point Laurence point ... Lawn point , Skidegate Lawrence islands ... point, tides Lawson bluff... ... harbour ... reef, buoy ... rock , buoy Lawyer f^roup Lazo cape ... ... , caution Leach islet ... ... ."■ieading bluff, Barclay sound cone, Klaskish inlet hill, Esperanza inlet , Queen Charlotte sound , island. Dusky cove , Klewnuggit inlet , Kyuquot sound ... , Skidejrate , Welcome harbour INDEX. mount, Ilesquiat harbour peak, Chatham sound , Hecate island , Howe sound , Pearl harbour , Saanitch inlet — point, Chatham islands , Knight inlet , Nass river ... , Portland Canal , Ucluelet arm , Whale channel Leche island .. Ledge point, buoy ... , Gil island rooks, Dusky cove Lee islet rock Leech island Leer point Legge point Lemon mount Lennard island Leonard point Letitia point ... Lewia chauuel, tides Page. 300 128 82 UTi 375 .-)34 ;)3.5 Hit; 143 443 IC.l 148 149 444 208 210 324 31'.) 373 35 7 294 279 439 3(52 535 493 344 450 492 212 401 115 88 275 507 511 332 484 290 2(i4 482 279 252 87 133 44t; 426 304 331 205 43(> 227 Lewis island Arthur passage Baronet passage passage reef, beacon rocks ... Libby rock, buoy Liddell point Liddle island Li gar island Light, Active pass ... Admiralty head Alden point ... Atkinson point Bare point ... Battery point Beale cape ... Berens island Blunt island... Brockton point Brown point... Burrows bay... Bush poin* ... Carnna) "'• Cattl'i ]) - ■: . Discover} inla" d Dofflcmyer point Eagle island ... East point Ediz hook Entrance island Esquimau harbour False Dungeness Fidalgo island Fisgard island Flattery cape Eraser river ... Georgina point Great Race island Hudson point Johnson point , La Conner ... Lummi point March point ... Marrowstone point Maylor spit ... Monroe point Moody point ... New Dungem«s No point Oak harbour Obstruction island Olympia Page. . 252 . 442 . 271 . 483 . 87 . 292 35 125, 127 SIO 290 129 38 105 179 119 52 315 81 158 182 55 160 41 313 137 88 62 60 105 33 186 76 33 161 70 27 175 ;29 73 >;l 7'./ .67 41 09 46 61 34 45 69 149 63 12 Page. . 2r>2 442 271 483 87 292 •^r, '>, 127 SIO 2<J0 121) 38 105 179 119 52 315 81 158 182 55 160 41 313 137 88 (52 GO 105 33 186 7(5 33 101 7C 27 175 ;3 f\ i;l ~'j .«!7 I '1'' 41 09 46 01 34 45 09 149 (53 Light, Orchard point , Patos point . . , , Pole pass , Portlock point , Prevost island , Race islands ... , Robinson point , Sand-head . . , Sandy point ... , Saturna island , Smith island... — , Steamboat slougli — ; Tatoosh island - , Tongue point —, Turn point ... — , Victoria harbour — , West point ... — , William head — , point , Yellow island Lighthouse island, buoy ... Lightville Lilooet lakes Lima point ... Limestone island , Otter cove islands, Laskeek bay point — rock Limit island ... point Lina island ... Linlithgow point ... Lion rock Lion's gate Little group ... Littleton point Liverpool town Lizard point , Portland inlet Lizzie hill Local magnetic disturbance Lockhart creek Lofty island Log point , Skidegate channel Logan inlet point Lone cone island Long arm, Skidegate inlet... bay harbour, Ilaro strait... INDEX. Page. ... 49 105, 143 ... 151 ... 127 ... 127 ... 73 ... 175 ... 08 ... 105 ... 158 ... 70 ... 27 ... U)9 ... 100 ... 81 ... 49 75 ... 104 ... 200 ... 1.S7 ... eo 222 ... 440 ... :i8] ... 251 ... 5:51 ... .'ir.! ... 523 ... 49(; ... 394 ... 5:i3 ... 291 ... 229 ... ISl ... IKt ... 270 ... 17S ... 200 ... 5<I5 ... 404 ... 205 ... 414 ... 490 ... 379 ... 540 ... 529 ... 512 ... ;i:i7 ... 401 ... 531! ... 3:!:i ... 120 Long harbour, Townsend port island, Mackaye harbour , Ogden channel ■ , Oyster harbour , Starfish group point, position Loo rock Look-out island Lopez island , sound, tides ... Lord island ... islands, rock Iioughboroigh inlet , tides Louie creek Louisa islet. Simoom sound point rock Louise island , Queen Charlotte is- lands .. rock ... Louscoone harbour Low Black rock cone island, Laskeek bay ... , Jliner's uliauncl , Kynumpt harbour .. , Wasp channel... islets. Forward inlet point, Finlayson channel , Juan de Fuca strait ... , rock, Laredo sound ... ~, NasH bay ■ rock, Esperanza inlet... Lowe inlet ... , tides Lucau islands Lucy island, I'erry passage islands ■ ro(;k, ;\Ialaspina inlet Ludlow port ... , directions Lumnii island — , liay, river, point. light Lund settlement, position Luxana bay Lyall harbour poii.t livell island Lyle point Lvnn canal 575 Pago. . 39 . 145 . 501 . 119 . 492 . 395 . 404 . 306 . 145 . 147 . 353 . 476 . 243 . 244 . 353 . 284 . 256 125 . 520 531 367 518 522 308 53 1 los 414 152 378 419 32 480 50(5 356 437 439 303 544 451 228 43 44 106 107 224 516 97 330 520 01 J8 576 INDEX. Lyre river Lytton city Page. . a2 . 174 Mnad river Macaulay point Macdonald point, ridge Mackaye harbour ... Mackenzie sound Maclaujjhlin point ... Madison port lii^ht, navigable depths Maggy point Magin saddle islands Magnetic disturbance .nolia bluff vilagh Main entrance, Knight inlet passage , Lama passage Malacca passage , directions Malaspina inlet , directions... , tides strait Malcolm island Malksope inlet Mamalilaculla village Manson bay ... Mai)alaklenk Maple bay, tides point, beacon , Portland canal • , Whale channel Maquazneecht island Maquiiina point Marble creek — quarry — rock ... March point, light Marchant island rock Margaret point shoal Mariatu point Mark hill ... 381 80 277 11.5 2'J2 80 45 46 271 304 288 205 50 381 273 474 412 444 445 228 230 231 217 205 •MW 272 234 405 117 201 513 484 383 340 383 444 485 103 320 4i)8 2'J'J 53'J 23 352 Mark islet , St. John harbour nipple rock, John port . Seaforth channel 'ht Marmot river Marrack island, rock Marrow.«tone point, li Mars island Marsden island Marshall point Martin island Marviuas bay Mary basin cove, Finlaysou channel island , Desolation sound , Milbank sound islet, Sutil channel ... point, Virago sound... rock Todd islet 21 Marylebone point Maskelyne point, position ... , Portland inlel Massacre bay Masset harbour, inlet, sound , tides Masterman islands Mathieson channel ... Matia island Matilda creek Matliksimtas passage Matthew island Maud island rock, Barclay sound... Maude ir.land Skidegate islet Maunsell bay Maury island passage Mauve islet May hat tee village... Maycock rook Mayday island Mayne bay ... island passage Mayor channel island... Maze islands ... McBride bay... Page. 317 421 491 408 415 514 441 41 280 281 7, 223 211) 347 353 425 230 232 419 235 541 294 80 232 406 504 ... 154 ... 540 ... 541 ... 209 ... 420 ... 145 ... 340 ... 484 ... 408 ... 247 ... 326 ... 195 ... 535 ... 288 ... 299 ... 53 147, 149 ... 287 ... 381 ... 253 ... 375 ... 330 ... 98 ... 242 ... 87 ... 296 ... 400 ... 243 INDEX. 577 McCauley island McCuUough rook McEwan point McGrath mount McKay cove ... reach reef ... McLaughlin bay tides McLeod island McNeil bay ... island mount McNeill port... Meadow island ■ point Meares island Mee na point... Melanie cove... Melville island Menzies bay ... , tides jjoint Mereworth sound Merry islands Metlah Callah bay, villajfe , anchorage, di- Page. 489, noi ... 47-. ... 297 ... 44(5 ... 532 ... 4:51 ... 334 ... 410 ... 411 ... 295 ... 8G ... 60 ... 450 ... 2fi4 ... 412 ... 49 ... 336 ... 30 ... 232 ... 232 ... 248 ... 249 ... 406 ... 300 ... 217 ... 462 rections tides ... Mexicana jwint Mid-channel bank , Mid rock ... Middle bank , Nanaimo , buoys, beacon , Nass river , Lopez sound . channel , directions... , tides , Barclay sound , Dejtarture bay , Esperanza inlet reef Dundas island Gander islands passage, Skeena river point , Discovery passage rock. Broken group , oealed passage rocks, Cunila island Midge reefs .. SO 11948 ... 455 ... 456 ... 306 ... 40 ... 360 ... 92 ... 189 ... 188 ... 508 ... 147 ... 137 138, 141 139, 142 ... 323 ... 192 ... 355 ... 355 ... 472 ... 497 ... 446 ... 35 ... 24M ... 495 ... 309 ... 50(1 ... 415 Midge rock Midgley point, rock, buoy .. Midsummer island Mignon point Milbank sound — -, directions , tides Mile rock, breaker Miles cone Mill creek bay stream Millar group Miller point Mills point Milly island Miners bay channel Mink island Trap bay Minor island, beacon Misery point Minstrel island Mist islets rock Mission point Mission valley Mistaken island . . Misty passage Mitchell bay harbour ... Mitlenatch island ... MofiPat islands rock Moketas island Molly point Monarch head Monday anchorage ... shoal Money island Monroe point, light... Montague channel ... harbour ... Montreal Monument rock Moody point, lijrht ... port , anchorage Moodyville Moore channel , tides 647 head Moresby island, Queen Charlotte islands ... Page. 4.''.3 167 275 300 416 419 420 370 303 116 , 189 294 69 . 257 . 258 . 129 , 108 . 231 . 488 . 158 . 65 . 276 . 259 . 382 . 452 . 506 . 198 . 281 . 265 548 225 473 267 363 484 96 281 379 432 46 212 131 182 523 61 184 185 183 547 548 518 520 2 578 INDEX. Moresby iglanda, Moore channel passage , buoys, directions... Morgan island, rock Morninrf reefs Morphy rock... Morris bay, anchorage, directions island... Morse island 101,103 Mosquito harl)onr passage Moss passage point Mouatt channel is'.et. Gillies bay point reef, Cowlitz bay , Enterprise channel ... rock, Goletas channel Mouse rock Muchalat arm, Indians Miickiteo town Muckshwanne Mud bank islands Mudge cape -, position, tides island Muirhcad islands Mullins island Mumford landing Murchison island Murden cove... Murraj' island labyrinth Mussel inlet ... rock ... Mutine point... Mutiny bay ... Mylor peninsula Mystery rock... Naas glee village Nab rock Nabanhah bay , Naden cape harbour, river, tides Nahmint bay Page. 547 111 112 232 437 297 423 2'JO KIS 33H 103 423 230 87 210 !)9 104 86 ... 303 41.5,417 ... 3411 ... 67 ... 610 ... 380 ... 506 ... 209 ... 210 ... 134 ... 291 ... 326 ... 445 ... 525 ... 47 ... 257 ... 296 420, 427 ... 336 ... 320 ... 42 ... 506 ... 224 445 479 437 542 542 321 Nahwhitti bar, directions Nai Koon cape Naiad islet ... Nak wak to rapids ... Xakat inlet Xalau island, passage Namu harbour . anchoragjv tides Page. ... 306 ... 537 ... 30H ... 297 ... 476 403, 494 ... 403 ... 404 ... 1S8 Naniiimo flats harbour, beacons, buoys, 188-9 , coal, directions, supplies, tides Nauoose harbour, hill , directions, sup- plies , tides Napier bay ... point Narrow island , Nootka sound islands Narrows, Admiralty inlet , Alberni canal arm ... island. Lama passage ... , Sunday harbour... , tides ; Slingsby channel 19(t 195 196 197 287 410 132 .347 32S 57 321 Narrowgut creek Nash bank ... Nasoga gulf Nasparti inlet , directions ... , tides Nass bay, anchoraj,'e , caution, tides river, villages , fish, ice, tides ... Native anchorage islet Navy channel, bctaeon, directions, tides Neck islet , George harbour point , Blunden bay Xeeah bay, buoy, light , anchorage, directions, tides Needle peaks rock Negro rock ... Neill point Nelly island 412 280 297 .., 362 ... 208 ... 505 ... 369 ... 370 ... 371 ... 506 ... 507 446, 507 ... 508 272, 273 ... 332 99 103 235 152 391 30 31 479 355 270 57 282 INDEX. 579 Nelson island, rock , Jervis inlet Nepean sound Nettle baein ... island... Neville islet port , anchorajje, tides Nevoy island New bank ... New channel, tides New Dungeness bay... , anchorage, fog signal, light, telegraph, tides ... New Caledonia channel... New Langley... New patch ... rock ... shoal, buoy Westminster , coal, supplies ... Zealand Newcastle island Newton mount Nicol rock Nicolas islands NickoU passage NichoUs island Night islet ... Nimpkish banks, river, tides , buoy Nina hill Ninstints village Nisqually. flats, river, tide reach Nitinat lake ... No point, light Nob point islet , Portland inlet point . Klaskino inlet Noble mountain islets point Nodales channel Nodule point Nookhalk river Nootka cone island Muiind , dinxjtions SO 1 l!t48 24 Page. . 21!l . 221 . 486 . 4.38 . ;t27 . 221t . 258 . 2.")'J . 413 . 37!» 1(12 . 3:5 34 23 307 178 3itO 23.-> 139 177 178 23 18S 114 1 W 3U.". 27ti 290 275 263 263 2'J6 520 61 60 314 45 144 151 505 31!) 373 490 303 411 1,252 41 406 345 351 344 3.-.0 Nootka sound, tides Norman point Xorris reef rock , Lambert channel North arm , Clayoquot sound bank, Ilocatc passage bay, Gritlin bay Bay islands ... bay, Waldron island Bentinck arm bluff — breaker Queen's sound channel, Clayoquot sound . , Esperanza inlet , islands, Laredo char-iel ... Page. ... 345 207,219 ... 201 ... 114 ... 207 ... 185 ... 340 ... 336 ... 138 ... 480 ... 105 ... 406 ... 169 ... 470 ... 495 340 356 — , Nanaimo .. — , Queen Charlotte sound - , Skeena river Cod reef Danger rock rooki) Dundas islands Fork, Fr.aser river Goose island ... harbour. Quutsino sound ... island group ... , Milhank sound , Queen Charlotte group Iron rock — led*''es ... ... Oljstruction pass, tides passage , Evan's arm , Farewell harbour ... , Klemtoo , Namu harbour , Queen Charlotte sound , Ila/.a island , Skeena river point. Anchor cove , Nass bay Pointer's rocks range ... reef, Stuart channel rock, Beavet passage . Dixon entrance 481 190 295 446 109 .377 499 472 178 495 378 418 419 543 391 418 149 152 408 271 426 403 398 239 44G 535 506 492 496 120 502 475 20 2 « 580 North rock, Fulford harbour , Nanoose harbour rocks, Bonila island Shoal island Surf islands Twin islet, Ogden channel. Watcher islet Norweyrian settlement Northumberland channel North-west arm, Klewnuggit inlet bay • cone rocks, Bonila island ... Nose peak Notch hill Notice boards No wish cove, tides Nuchatlitz inlet, caution , directions. INDBX. tides reef Nugent sound Numas islands Numukamis bay Nufiez reef ... Nye rock Nymph cove ... Page. 124 1% 5(10 118 482 r.oi ... 48r. 382, 40C ... 1!»:} 43!) 11)8 352 600 376 195 3,25 425 352 354 ... 352 ... 21t!» 286, 21)3 ... 317 ... 475 ... 308 ... 249 Oak bay , Vancouver island cove harbour, lights head Oakland ... Oar point Oat so alls O'Brien bay Observatory island, Koprino harbour inlet , tides Observation islet, Barclay sound ... , Friendly cove ... point, Blakeney port , Coghlan anchor- age , Glendale cove , Ilowe sound ... ■■ , Metlah Catlah 42 86 39 69 65 66 488 402 284 380 508 510 327 346 422 435 277 213 454 Observatory islet. Stamp harbour point, Freshwater bay rock rocks, San Juan port Obstruction island, passages , lights islet O'Connor settlement Ogden channel , tides point Oil wells, Augusta port Oke reefs Okeover ftrm OkishoUow channel Okookstaw Old North sand head Old passage — Tacoma Oldiield island, mount Olympia, directions, lights, tides Olympian range Ommaney islet Omannya point One-tree island islet , Port Simpson , Shad well passage O'Neal island Oolachan, defined Ooua bay, river Open bay , Glayoquot sound , Rivers inlet • -, San Juan island — , Valdes island .. Orange point Orcas Bill island, sounds Nob Orchard point, light port , buoys, dock rocks, beacon Orford bay Oriel rocks .. ... Oriflamme passage ... Ormidale harbour ... Osborn bay, anchorage Osborne islands ... Oscar passage Otter anchorage, Cunningham passage Page 322 32 379 70 ... 149 ... 149 ... 301 ... 52 ... 500 ... 502 ... 80 ... 205 ... 422 ... 228 239, 251 ... 377 ... 176 ... 281 ... 56 . . 446 63 ... 25 ... 286 ... 376 ... 459 ... 221 ... 462 ... 305 ... 140 1 ... 503 ... 387 ... 335 ... 398 ... 103 ... 237 ... 248 ... 144 152, 153 138, 153 ... 49 ... 46 ... 47 ... 47 ... 240 ... 232 ... 475 ... 413 ... 118 ... 409 ... 424 460 INDEX. 581 Patfc. Otter bfty, Pender island 129 channel, \ei)oan sound ... 48ti cove, Finlayson channel ... 42.') cove, point ... ... ... 251 , tide 2.-)2 island 2;>1 passage, Nepean sound ... 4S7 point 71 range 124 shoal 430 Ou ou kinsh inlet .S(>7 , directions, tides 301) Outer island 417 narrows, Slingsby channel... 297 Oval hill 467 Oweekayno villatfe ... ... ... 401 Owen island, point 70 Owens island !{2fi Owl island 275 Oyster bay, anchorage 209 harbour, tides 119 Ozzard mount .S3] Pachena bay Paddle rook Padilla bay Paddy passage Palmerston cape Pan point ... Panama reef , buoy Pandora head peak Park hill Parker island reef , tides Parkin island Parry bay, anchorajfe, quarantine station passage directions Parson bay Parsons point Parthia shoal Partridtfe bank, buoy point 314 39K 67 509 387 244 165 166 290 70 138 131 144 145 466 75 543 544 270 71 182 37 38 Pasley islands passai^e Page. ... 212 ... 288 ... 350 ... .501 179.211 422 Pass islet Passage cone, Dolphin island island, Howe Houud , Mathieson channel , Whale channel ... 484 islet, Knight inlet ... 275 rock, island 151 , (Jlayoquet sound ... 334 -, Colling wood channel 212 Passages, Dixon entrance to Cross sound 18 , Inner ; caution ., ... 16 , Panama to Vancouver ... 21 , Queen Charlotte sound to Dixon entrance ... 17 , strait of Georgia to Queen Charlotte sound 17 , Valparaiso to Vancouver 20 , Vancouver to Panama ... 22 , Vancouver and South- cast Australia , Vancouver to Valparaiso , Vancouver to Yokohama , Victoria to Alaska . Victoria to Burrard inlet Patey rock Patos island , li),'ht P.atrick passatre Peacock channel Peale pass Peapods islets Pearce point Pearl harbour island rocks Pearse channel islands peninsula Pearson island Pedder bay, anchorage, tides Peel island Peile point Pelorus point Pender harbour , anchorage, tides... 23 19 18 17 16 ... 113 105, 142 ... 143 ... 287 ... 329 ... 62 ... 166 ... 469 ... 460 ... 103 ... 39<» ... 510 ... 264 ... 282 ... 219 ... 74 ... 268 ... 126 ... 99 ... 219 220 island -, Barclay sound islands Pendril sound Penfold island ..97, 99 .. 329 .. 255 ... 2.32 ... 282 582 INDEX. Penguin inland Peninsula point, Ogflen channel Penn iHlands ... cove PenphruHe panaago ... Penrose bay island Percy anchorage bay island ledge Peril rock — — strait ... PeriHjndicular bluff mount Perry bay rock Peter point Petrel channel shoal Peveril rock Philip point ... Philipps arm Philips passage Phillimore point Piers island Pike island Pilkey point Pill island ... Pillar, the point Pilley shoal Pilot point, Admiralty inlet , Ursula channel Pilots Pin rock, beacon, light , Esperanza inlet ... Pincher rocks Pine island Pinnace channel rock Pinnacle islet point Pipestem inlet Pirie point Pit<3airn island Pitt island river Plover island point Gil island reefs Plumper bay, Dipcovery passage Page. . 14.-) . iiO:{ . 2;t« (iit . 28!t . 22!» . 8!ll) . i:h . 103 . 280 . ;{8i . 408 18 . :»5o . 300 . mo . !»7 . 57 . 41tO . 31(6 . 4!».-) . 383 . 243 . 281 . 131 . Ill . 454 . 121 . 235 . 543 . 32 . 37'J . 45 . 431 2 . 81 . 355 . 51t) . 308 3(i3 . 327 . 378 . 308 . 3.S0 . 513 , 1!) . 437 ,. 178 ,. 403 ,. 338 . 488 ,. 335 . 250 Plumper bay, Eaquimalt ... channel oove, Howe sound , tides Plunger pass... Poctt nook ... Point No point harbour. Nootka sound ... island, Quatsino sound ... l)assago Discovery island reef sound, llan» strait , Queen's sound ... , light Pointer island Pointers rocks, Chatham sound , Hakai channel Poison cove Poisonous fish, caution shell fish, caution Pole islet passage, liglit ... Polkinghorne islands, caution Pollard jioint Polly island Polnell point Popliam island Popplewell point Porcher island Port Angeles , light, fog siorm signals, tides Alexander Augusta, directions Blakely, directions Blakeney , directions. Browning Canaveral Page. ... 76 40!>. 4!»5 ... 213 ... 214 ... .147 ... 380 89 ... 143 ... DO ... 4'.»5 ... 235 ... 317 ... 44 ... 45 ... 409 ... 471 ... 4 '.12 .. 427 ... 549 ... 428 ... 412 ... 151 ... 28(5 . . . 284 ... 230 ... <;9 ... 213 ... 2S(i 443, 4(57 ... 32 signal tides -. directions, tides , Chester Discovery, tides EttingLim ... Eliza ... ... Elizabeth Essington, anchorage, supplies , coal, ice, tides ... Fleming Gamble, directions Gardner Graves, directions, tides Harvey , directions, tides 33 304 205 48 421 422 97 489 490 18 35 326 .357 276 447 448 441 64 67 214 259 201 INDEX. '>K\ Port John, tides Lftn^^f^)^l LiuUow ... , (lircctioiiH Madison ,li(flit,nnvi},'nl)le(U'i)ths McNeill Moody , anchorage Neville -, anchorage, tides Orchard... , buoys, dock , reef Renfrew, anchorage ... San Juan, anchorage ... Simpson , anchorage ... , directions ... , supplies, repairs , tides Stephens, directions, tides Susan ... , buoys ... Townsend Wrangell Portage cove ... Portland bny... canal -, directions, light ... -,repairs,tides,»ignals Page. 4 (IS r.\ 14 4.-. 46 12(14 l.st 18.-. 2.-..S 2:.'.> 4(; 47 4i»:} 7U 70 4(>2 4(;:< 4(14 Hut 4('>(; 4S8 (".7 68 3'J 40 41 18 230 3 333 510 anchorages, tides position inlet islands point Portier pass, caution, tides Portlock point, light Possession point, tides , Sooke inlet sound , navigable depths Position, Admiralty head ... , Beaver harbour , , Bonila island — , IJoyles point — , Calvert cape — , Carmanah lighthouse — , Caution cape — , Chatham point ... — , Commerell cape ... — , Cook cape ... ->ir> ... .-.04 ... Ill ... 505 ... 133 ... 127 ...43,67 72 ... 66 67 ... 38 ... 268 ... ■')() ... :',»- 3i»P, iiii ... 3)3 ... 389 ... 252 ... 303 ... 371 Page. Position, Hunt zc head ; Esquimau 78 , Duval point 301 , Entrance island 187 , Estt'van point 314 , Flattery cape light ... 27 , Fraser river liglithouse 175 , (ieorgina point I2'.t . ll.betson cape 4(>7 , Kincolith 506 , Knox cape 544 , Koprino harbour ... 380 , Long point 3'.C) , Lund Settlement ... 221 , Maskelyne point ... 466 , Mudge cape 21(1 , Poitland canal 515 , Rose point 538 , Sarah point 225 , Skidegate inlet 535 , St. James cape 517 , Swain cape ... 416,41)6 . Tatoosli light 27 , White Clill island ; Queen Charlotte sound ... Pot rocks Powell point islets Poyntz island Preed}' harlxiur Prescott island President chamiel ... point Prevost harbour i'^land, light Queen ... 274 ... 384 ... 27U ... 225 ... 257 ... 123 450, 467 ... 141 ... 45 ... lIMI ... 127 Charlotte island 51(i passage 112 Price channel 232 island 418 Prideau.x haven, tide 232 point 380 Prince o^ Wales island 475 .'each 221 Princess Louisa inict 222 Princess Royal island ... 428, 471t reach 221 Principe channel, directions ... 4H7 , tides 4!H) Prominent point 277 Promise island ... 435 point ... 421 Prospect point 180 Ptosser rock 308 5H4 INDEX. Protection iHlnnd -, Hnrclay houiuI. -, Namiimo -, S<iuirrcl cove . point Providence cove paHsago ... Pryce channel Puflln inland islet , Barclay sound... Puffot sound Pully point Pultenoy point Pumish passage Punt rock Puntluch stream Purple bluff Puyallup river Puzzle island Py lades channel Pym island rock Qlawdzeet anchorape , directions, tides Quadra hill rocks Qual a qute Qualicum bay -, river, buoy... Quamitchan river ... Quarantine, Parry bay station ... Quartermaster harbour -, dock rock ... Quascilla, village Qnashela bay... Quathiasici cove Quatishe Quatsino narrows -, tides sound -, dir«ctions... -, tides Pago. . :»5 . :»i'7 . 18H . 227 . 277 . 71 . 27,-. . 2:iit . u,-) . 82*; . 58 . .-.» . 2»><i . 277 . 271 . 2<)<; . I!M 5.5 . .'J2(i . i:?5 . Ill . 283 Quel ak ho ax Quiiu Chiirhittf Queen Charlotte channel islands sound Queen's cove sound Quatsap point Quebec ... 47(» ... 471 ... 132 ... 519 ... 4'.t5 ... IIM.I ... lltH ... 11(5 ...75, 84 ... 75 ... 54 ... 56 ... 4.53 3'.»5, 396 ... 397 ... 246 ... 382 ... 382 ... 383 ... 375 ... 384 ... 380 ... 66 4 — reach, Frasi-r river , Jurvis inlet Quiet cove Quil mass Quilcene bay... Quiinp(!r peninsula Quinamnrts bay Quoin hill mount... Quolaad Race islands, light, signals, tide; narrows, Clayocjuot sound passage, rocks, tides ... , Broughton strait , Johnstone strait point, Discovery i>assage , Tumbo i' 1 ... Rachel group islands Rafael point Raft cove Rage reef Ragged island islands islet, Barclay sound reef, Walker group Raglan point Railways Rain point Rainfall Rainier mount Rainy bay Rait creek Raleigh pa-ssige Ramsden point Ramsay arm island Ranger islet Ransom poiF'. Raphoe point 517 211 516 266 358 494 177 222 381 444 65 38 505 399 286 381 .... 73 ... 338 ...73,74 ... 264 ... 256 ... 248 ... 172 ... 474 ... 451 ... 341 ... 387 ... 421 ... 121 ... 225 ... 323 ... .S08 ... 303 4 ... 421 6 ... 56 ... 325 ... 414 ... 284 .505, 508 ... 239 ... 525 ... 506 ... 258 ... 408 INDBX. 58r) Page. Rapid hill 277 UiiMplMa'ry covo ... r>18 {hIiuuIh ... ... ... 447 ll.'iyiHir trniup 2!)3 lla/.ii inland ... ... 2'i!l Razor jwint !>7 Reml island 2:t7 mount .. 2W5 Rebeoua islet... ... 22li spit 2;i<> Rod clilf point 4:!0 , Cuiinintjlmin passago 4t)0 iHltit point ... 127 point 4«> Stripu mountain ... ... 374 top mountain 528 Redfcrn island 308 Rcdouda inland 227 , IJarclay aound ... 325 20U, 202 ... .341 ... 611 ... 151 ... .531 ... 317 ... 234 ... 234 1(>4 I'.H 112 .. 370 .. Ki'J 88, 342 .. 414 .. 124 .. luo .. 134 .. 308 .. 140 .. 408 ,.. iW, ... 23'.t 70 ... 545 .. 315 ... 313 ... 3, 25 ,.. 405 .. MS ... 48 ... 130 ... 278 ,.. 413 Reef Bluff reef, buoy Refuge eove, directions Reef island, Portland canal islands islet, Laskeek bay islets, Barclay i lund ... point, Cortes island ... , buoy ■ , Cypit ss island -, Departure bay ... -, buoy; Moresby island.. -, Quatsino sound Refuge bay, anchorage, tides cove Regatta rock Reginald hill Reid harbour... island , Storm islands ... rock, buoy Remarkable cone Rcmpstone rocks Rendezvous islands, tides ... Renfrew port, anchorage ... Rcnnell sound Rescue station, Beale cape... , Oarmanah ... stations Restoration bay Resolution cove Restoration point Retreat cove ... pa.s8age Return channel Revtrdy Johnson mountains Revillugigedo channel Rich passage Richard nwik islet point Richardson inlet passage -' point Richmond bay settlement Ridge islands King island Ripple bank, Big bay , Klemtoo passage bluff, tides islets, Clayofiuot sound passage point rock. Seymour narrows — — shoal, Johnstone strait tongue Ritchie bay Ritherdon bay River 1 ight Rivers inlet ... Robbers Nob point ... island Robert point Roberts bank, beacons point, Boundary mark spit Robertson island Robinson island l)oint , light Robson island reef Roche harbour , tide ... Rock creek ... islet point ... Rocket shoal ... Rock-fish harbour ... Rocky bay .., mountains p;\tch, Francis point pass ... point ... Rodd hill Roderick island RofFey point Vsmc ... r.i4 ... 18 ... 411 ... nno ... 21)5 ... .".(18 ... 528 ... 52!> ... 432 ... 2110 ... 185 ... 275 ... 235 ... 458 ... 420 ... 275 ... 338 ... 21»5 ... 255 ... 250 ... 251 ... 607 ... 337 ... .320 ... 484 ... 401 ... 25'.» 318,324 ... .337 ... 171 ... 170 ... 170 ... 2114 ... 21(3 ... 54 .55 ... 378 ... 86 ... 103 ... 104 ... 404 ... 1G5 ... 214 ... 133 ... ,5.30 ... no ... 173 ... 218 ... 342 ... G!) ... 77 ... 420 ... 288 r>sn INDEX. I i Roffers island ^95 Rolling roadstead 356 Root point ... ... 201 Rosa mount 353 Rosario strait, buoys I,j7 — , directions, tides ... I.")8 Roscoe inlet 107 Rose harbour ,")i',) islets 134 point 537 ; position 538 Roscdj'le rock 73 Ro.setta rock 22!) Ross island 5i<i RouK-h bay 2(15 Round i.sland, IJarclay sound ... 329 , Beaver harbour ... 2()S , Clayoquot i<ound ... 331 , Dodd narrows ... 135 r, Mereworth sound ... 300 , Smith inlet 3!t7 . Quiitsino narrows ... 3S2 . f^uoen Charlotte sound 2'.i| point, Portland canal Royal bay, roads ; anchoraj^o Ruanis])ah Rubble mount Rudder reef Rudlin biiy Ruff^'cd island, Fife inlet ... point , Open bay ... Rupert arm Russell cape — island Ruxton passage Ryan point Saanich inlet Saatiich peninsula ... Sabine channel , tides Sackville island Safe entrance Safety cove, anchorage, tides Saginaw channel Sail island ... --14 75 ... 3H3 ... 4(),S ... 1'.I7 ... 88 ... 2 S3 ... 3(11 ... •JS7 ... 3S3 ... 3S8 114, 124 ... 13ti ... 456 Hi no 216 217 285 nw 402 18 27.H Sail rock Salal point Salmon arm Seymour inlet. bank, buoy bay ■ , Johnstone strait channel cove. Observatory inlet .. river, bight , Portland canal Salsbury point Salt Spring settlement Sambo jioint Sammamish lake .. Samuel island San Francisco Jose islet Josef bay, directions Juan island I ^- port, anchorage Mateo bay Sand patch Sandfly bay Sand-head light Sandsj)it point, shoal , Welcome harbour Sangstcr island , Sandstone reef — rocks Sandy island, Baynes sound point, light . Cowtibz bay ... . Lummi bay . Waldron island Sansum island narrows Sarah island, Finlayson channel ... point, position , Finlayson island Saranac island Saratoga pa.ssage Sargeaunt passage, tides Sarita valley Satellite channel pilMS... reef, bi'- y Saturna island, light Savary i.sland Saw reef Sawmill poiit spit Scarlett point Scatchet hea<l '.»8, Page. , 328 . 423 , 222 300 137 4'J , 235 282 508 45S 514 65 124 270 50 118 3 317 387 102 70 3I!» 422 512 175 481 4;-'3 216 41,s 121 204 6S 104 167 141 547 116 427 225 463 337 68 277 317 113 324 ISJI 105 224 524 43 44 303 42 INDEX. ;J87 Schooner covo Wreck bay . passage Pago. ... 197 ... xv^ ... 296 .sound 41!». 424 Ogflen channel... 502 Rivers inlet Walker group Milbank point, ledge retreat , directions, tides Scotch Fir ))oint Scott cape , caution , channel, islands, tides, island ... point ... Scout p;itch ... Scrogg rocks... Scrub ibiland ... Scu<lder point Sea Bird islet — bluff — Egg rocks island — OtUu' cove group rock, Clayoiiuot sound . Seabeck bay ... Scabird point... Seabreeze island Scaforth channel Seal rock. Callani bay rocks, Edyo passage ... , Lare<lo channel ■ , Sangster island Sealed passage .. Search islands Seattle, coal, directions, repairs, tides, tugs ... Sebastian point Sechart channel, village ... Second juirrows narrows, Albrrni canal ... Secret cove ... , Secretary island, Haro strait , Juan de Fuca strait 4(11 308 480 .S98 4<M) ... 220 ... S09 U 0,311 310 123 228 103 "(> 280 524 315 399 2n; 179 387 .S89 335 ()5 88 278 412 31 4(i8 481 21(1 309 393 islands Section cove ... Secure anchorage Seddall island Sedge island ... 278. 230 327 I'M 321 218 122 72 132 524 4oO 325 279 Soflgwick bay Sedmond river Seechelt arm .. tides ... Sehone village Self point Selina point Selwyn inlet Semiahmoo bay, buoy, light Senanus is..ind Sentinel island, rock . Aristazabel island Sentry shoal Separation head Seppings island ... Separation point ^ Lopez sound Scrptr.it. point Seymour inlet island mount narrows , tides point, Moresby island Shadwell pjissage -, lidos Shag rock , IJarelay sound ... Shark cove l)ass reef. Middle channel reefs. Clayotpiot sound sand-sjiit Sharp passage j)eak ... point, (,'layoiiuot sound . Fairwiiy channel , Sydney inlet ... Shatt()ck point Shaw island Shawl bay Sheep islet , SUimp harbour — passage Shelf point ... , Kynumpt harbour Shell islet Shelter arm bay island, Klaskish inlet islands, Ucluelct arm piws point... Page. . 525 . 519 . ■ 222 . 223 . I(i4 . 318 . 229 . 530 . lt;9 . 115 . 101 49(> ... 225 ... 251 ... 324 ... 115 ... 148 ... 409 ... 299 ... 257 ... 535 ... 249 ... 250 .. 112 ... 304 ... 305 ... 155 ... 329 ... 97 ... 324 ... IKJ ... 335 ... 235 . . 288 ... 4.59 J34, 342 ... 187 ... 341 458, 462 ... 150 ... 281 ... 1.54 ... 322 ... 427 ... 293 ... 414 ... 268 ... 342 ... 293 ... 372 ... 331 ... 294 ... 209 588 INDEX. i , Shclvlnj^ rocks Shepherd mount Sherringham point , Shewoll iHla- ' Shikotan ... Shilshole bay, creek Shingle point , Kyuquot sound spit ... Shingles point Sliip anchorage. Klewnuggit inlet channel, Clayo(iuot sound ... , Barclay sound harbour , Barclay sound ... {)fV88age, Takush harbour , Uchucklesit harbour rock , Takush harbour Shrub islet, beacon Shoal bay. Rosario bay , Upright channel channel. Howe sound creek, Neville port ... harbour, Cramer pasaatfo , Vancouver island , islands point spit, beacon, light Shokomish river Shower island Shrub islet point Shushartie bay, directions... saddle Shute passage reef Shuttle island Sidney channel, island, spit , beacons, town , directions Sierra de San Christoval ... Signalilchew creek Simoom sound Simpson port -, anchorage, coal -, directions ... -, supplies, repairs -, tides ... rock Sinclair island Page. 165 215 71 27G li) 4"J 302 8()2 207 i:m 4:w l.-)6 :53.5 mo kj:) 317 323 3l).j 320 372 3'.m; 4.-.4 KiU 14(! 213 25'J 27!) 110 118 81 CG ... 303 ... 4'.IH ... 484 ... 302 ... .302 ... Kiy ... 113 ... r)2() ... io« buoys, ... 107 ... 108 ... 528 ... 61 ... 284 ... 4t)2 403 4G4 4t;5 ... 4ii6 ... 470 14 i, lti3, Ki.'i Single islet Sir Evcrard islands Sisters inlet islands, Barclay sound islets, beacon , Finlayson channel , Sloresby pjLssage , Rosario strait , Stephen's port point rocks . Sitka Skaat harlMjur Skagit river ... , buoys , light Skangoi Indians Skardon islands Skedans bay, islands, village Skecna Forks river, caution, navigable depths , coal, ice, tides, wimls Page. 381 21tO 407 3,'!0 210 425 111 n;7 488 6(i (>5 18 ,123 67 68 70 620 220 531 446 Skiakl island Skidegate chcvnuel inlet , bar , directions, position , tides Skiff point Skincuttle inlet Skip river Skipjack island Skirmish islets Skull cove reef Slab point ... Slate Chuck brook Slave island Sliainmou settlement Slingsby cliunnel, tides , directions Slip point Slippery rock Sloop narroft-H SlojK! point Slue, the Small islet Smith cove ... inlet island, beacon, light , Fleming port sound 44.-> 448 4(i7 646 533 534 5M5 ... 536 ... 47 ... 521 ... 452 141,145 ... 36<J ... 2l»6 ... 'J'J ... 5H ... 53.-. ... 305 ... 224 ... 2!»7 ... 29« 3il ... 457 ... 423 ... 274 ... 445 372,373 ... 50 ... 3U6 ... 168 ... 4(2 ... 3i)2 INDEX. 5.H9 Page. Smith sound, tides Hl»l Snag rock 251 Snake island, buoy 1H7 rock 14 Snakcland point, buoy ... ... (ill Snohomish river ... 67 , buoys ... ... tiS Snu<r basin 321 cove, lluwe sound ... ... 211 creek ... ... llti Solander island ... H71 Somass river ... ... ... ... H21 Sombrio river 71 Somerville island ... .504 Sooke bay 71 inlet, navigable de[)ths ... 71 , ancliorage, tiiles ... 72 Sophia islands ... 2ti2 Sophy islet 510 Sorrow island ... ... ... 4!>1 islands 'MS Sound point 413.414 South bay, island. Skidegate ... 533 islands 4f<0 Bentinck arm 406 bluff l(i!» Cod reef 110 cove, Carpenter bay 520 channel, Xanaiuio ... ... 190 channel islands. Lareilo channel Danger rock ... I)()t rock Dundasi and Gander island Iron rock island. Big bay , Dusky cove .. Kinnahan island Obstruction jiass, tides pas.sage, Evans arm ... , Klenitoo , Namu harbour , Queen Charlotte sound — Pointers rocks — range — reef, Nuchutlitz inlet — rock. Sealed passage... — rocks, Boni.'a island... — Shelt4?r island — Surf islands ... — Twin islet. Ogden channel I South Watcher islet I South-east arm, Quatsino sound Gander islands ... Southgate group river Southey island point Southworth point ... Spanish bank, beacon, buoy Sparrowhawk breakers ."^parrowhawk rock, buoy ... Speaker rock Spencer ledge Sphinx island Spicer island ... Spider island Spieden bluff, island channel , directions Spiller cliannel passage 481 377 '.•2 471 4!t7 3U1 458 27y 451 150 408 42(; 403 391 4!)2 4!M> 353 309 499 213 l>-2 501 Spit point Skidegate inlet... Spray point ... Spring passage Queen Charlotte sound Sproat bay Spuk sfit Spur rock S(iuall point Scjually channel reach Siiuamish harbour, rocks S<iuare island .S(iua\v island Sniawmisht river ... S.| lirrol cove, tide ... St. Felix island St. James cape, position St. John harbour Page. . 485 . .381 . 497 , 296 , 240 . 196 . lis . 57 . 180 . 497 , 461 . 256 87 . 131 . .501 . 494 . 101 . 101 . 102 . 413 . 280 . 511 . 533 . 481 . 140 278 319 447 398 489 4.S2 115 65 300 423 210 227 21 617 420 tioiiB IK)int caution, direc- 421 208,210 St. Miry cape 160 Stuekhouse island 288 Suig iMiy 226 rock 439 Stager fort ... ... 446 Stamp harbour, navigable depths 321 . anchorage, supplies, tides 322 St^indard time 2 590 INDEX. Page. Staniforth point 432 Stanley river.. 542 Stan wood, buoya (JS Staples islet 293 Star islet, Klemtoo passage ... 42(5 islands 271 rock, Tracey harbour 287 Starfish irroup, ledges 4!»2 StJirlight reefs 321 Start island 279 point ,50.") Starr rook, buoy ](i4 Station island 231 Steam tug 184 Steamboat slough, lights 70 Steamer cove, Sydney inlet ... 342 passage 270 , KliktsoAtli ... 411 , Portland inlet .. ')0'> , Uehucklesit harbour 320 Steep bluff, rocks, Howe sound , Portland island island, Arrow jjassage , GowUand harbour -- point Cardero channel Fly basin Larcflo channel Otter channel Portland canal Steilacoom , river, tides Stenhouse shoal Stephen rock Stephens island Chatham sound mount ' passage point port, directions, tides Stephenson point Stevens passage Stewart bay narrows Stikene strait Stillaguamish river , buoys , lights Stimpson reef StocK.<.de bay, point... Stoiioy mount Stony hill point ... 213 ... Ill ... 280 ... 247 ... ir>2 ... 242 ... 31)() ... 480 ... 487 ... .".IS ... r)9 ... 60 ... 470 ... 4!»0 ... 449 ... 467 ... 292 ... 18 ... 436 ... 488 ... 249 210,216 ... 332 . . 436 ... IS ... 67 <i8 ... 70 ... 2ri9 .. 156 ... 286 ... 213 ... 508 Stopford jmint Stopper islands Storm islands , Principe channel signals Stove island Strachan bay Straggling islands Stripe island mountain Striped peak Strawberry bay, island Strong-Tide islet Stuu,rt anchorage, G renville channel , directions, tides • channel, directions... • island, light , Calm channel narrows point Stubbs island, Clajoquot sound Stumaun bay... Stunteil Island Sturgeon bank, beacons Styles point Suquash anchorage, tides ... Sucia harbour, island , directions ... Sugar-loaf hill Sulivan reefs Sun rock Sunday harbour island rock , Sunderland channel, tides ... Sunk reef Sunken rock ... Superstition ledge, jwint ... Surf islands, Campania sound , Quatsiao sound islet, Seaforth channel , Smith sound point Surge narrows, Hoskyn inlet , Lareilo channel islets ,.. rocks ... Surgeon islands Surprise patch Surry islands... Susan islands port ... , buoys Page. 512 .'J30 308 489 15 235 300 384 272 417 32 164 88 439 440 ... 122 ... 100 ... 239 ... 290 ... 294 ... 334 ... 462 ... 400 ... 176 ... 243 ... 267 ... 143 ... 144 ... 492 ... 368 ... 295 ... 280 ... 404 ... 344 ... 257 ... 415 ... 309 ... 494 ... 482 ... 377 ... 415 ... 393 ... 399 239, 251 ... 481 ... 372 ... 274 ... 287 ... 395 ... 213 ... 425 ... 67 ... 68 INDEX. ;V.tl Sutherland bay Sutil channel, tides , directions Sutlej cluiiinel tides — point Sutton rock ... Suwanee rock Swnin cape, ]iosition Swale roek Swallow islaml Swamp islet point Swan rock Swanson bay... channel island Swifts l)a}- Swit'tsure bank Swindle islands Swiuomisli slough .. Swiss IJoy island Sydney bay ... inlet ... island islets... buoy> Page. ... 'J'.tl ... 23;t ... '2.\X ... 2«r. ... 2S« ... 4(m; ;t:i 1.3:52 ... ;i(i.. 4Ui. 4'.Mi ... :t->7 ... 4:.s ... 4.-.7 ... .■.!;( ... 401 ... 4211 ... 12.S ... 271 ... MS ... 27 ... 42.-) ii7 •is ... :<2:. ... 244 ... :u\ !»2 ... 221 To Altz villatre Table hill 4.-)(l, island, Barclay sound , ClaJi Ninick harbour , Smith sound point Tacoina. coal, dock, repairs, tide ... Tahsiiih arm Tahsis canal narrows Takush harbour auchorajre, direc- tions, tides Tal un Kwan island... Tala iK)int Taliuko Tan oo island Tangle cove Tar islands Tartanne village 472 :»2it ;<riti W.I 5(1 ;{(;:t ;i47 :m8 ,'{<».■. :»'.i(i :.:iM 4:t 4Uti .•.2!i .•i22 .■.2i! :,u Page- Tasmania . 2:{ Tasoo harbour .■48 Tat Chu point .U'<0 Tatnall reefs ... ... Hiiti Tatoosh island, lij,'-ht, fojf si^rnal, and telegraph station ... ... 27 Tatteuhaiii le(l;re 217 Taylor isUt ... ... ;tl> Te Ka river .■.42 Teakcru arm ... ... 227 Telakwas ;|'.»,S Telegraph, Ks([uiinalt ... ... so , Galtriola pass ... ... i:tt'i harlwur, anchorage. tides 12;{ j)assage ... . ... 44t> station, Beale cape ;ii:t, '\l'> , C'armanah light :<13, 314 , Flattery cape ... 27 , San Juan port ;U;t, 70 4 . :i:u . 12n •;.■> . 4'.KH . 2'.l2 . 2\r> . 87 . I IS . lilt . :i:u) 111, 77 . ■.17 . US . 4t;7 . 470 . 4:{j . 207 . 01 . ir.;{ . 174 . 28.-. . 4i;i . 547 . 214 .. 217 .. 22'J ,. 2;!0 .. lot; .. 543 Tele;:raphs ... Templer channel rocks Tent island, jioint Termination point Terror point, rocks ... Tessie points ... Texiula island Thames shoal Thatcher pa-ssage , directions Theodosia arm Thetis cove , Jlitchell harbour island. Stuart channel Thistle harbour ■ • rock ... Thorn point, le<lge Thomas point Thompson cove point river sound Thorburne island Thorn rock ... Thornborough channel Thormanby islands ... Thorp island Thors cove Thrasher rock, buoy Thrumb, the 592 INDKX. Thumb peak Thunder bay Thurlow island islands Thynne island Tides and Tidal streams , Active pass , Alert bay ... , Aljdia bay , Angeles port , Augusta iKjrt... , IJuU harbour , Campania sound to Grenville channel Baker passage Barclay sound Beaver creek , harbour Becher bay Bela Kula Blakeney pet Blunden harbour Broughton strait Brown passage Burrows bay Bute inlet Calm channel Cameleon harbour Canaveral port Cardero channel Carter bay Chath.im sound Clayoquot sound Coghlan anchorage Commencement bay Cullen harbour Cypress harbour Darwin sound Discovery island passage . port Dixon entrance Dodd narrows Drayton harbour Dusky cove Edye passage Es|ieranza inlet Essington jwrt Esquimau Farewell harbour First narrows Fisher chiinm-l Fitz Hugh sound Page. 450 220 242 254 230 12 l.'JO 265 .■.(•3 33 20(J 30(i 43(i 22(1 316 244 2(;!> 74 40ti 422 21t3 2i;:5 470 161 240 239 253 41(0 243 428 466 334 436 56 283 288 527 90 246 35 477 135 169 2H0 469 3fi0 448 80 272 182 408 397 Page. Forward harbour ... 257 Frasor river ... 177 Gabriola pass ... 136 Gander group ... 497 Georgia strait 173, 194 Gold- cream harbour ... 4(13 Goletiis channel ... 3itl erowUaud harbour ... .. 247 Graham reach ... 420 Graves port ... 214 Grenville channel ... ... 44(» Halibut bay ... 512 Haro strait ...54, 95 Harvey port ... 261 Hecate strait ... 539 Henslung cove ... .')44 Kosquiat harbour ... ... 344 Holmes bay ... 435 Island harbour ... 327 Jervis inlet ... 223 John port ... 408 Johnstone strait ... 254 Kemano bay ... 4.33 Klaskino inlet ... 375 Klaskish inlet ... 373 Knight inlet ... 274 Kyuquot sound ... 365 Klemtoo passage ... ... 426 Klewnuggit inlet ... ... 439 Knox bay ... 255 Kynumpt harbour . . ... 414 Laredo channel ... 481 Lawrence point ... 166 La/.o cape ... 195 Lewis channel ... 227 Lopez sound ... 147 Loughborough inlet ... 244 Lowe inlet ... 439 Maple bay ... 117 Malaspina inlet ... 231 Masset sound ... .541 McLaughlin bay ... ... 411 Menzies bay ... 249 Metlah Catlah bay ... ... 456 Middle channel 139, 142 Milbank sound ... 420 Moore channel ... 548 Mudge cape 195 210 Naden Imrbour ... 542 Namu harbour ... 404 Nanaimo ... 190 Niiuoosc harbour ... 197 Narrows ; Admiralty inlet... 57 INDEX. Tides, Naeparti inlet , Nass bay , river , Navy channel , Neeah bay , Neville port , New channel , New Duntreness , Nimpkish river , Nisqually , Nootka sound , Nowish cove , Nuchatlitz inlet , Observatory inlet ... . Obstruction paasages , Otyden channel , Olympia , Ou on kinsh inlet ... , Oyster harbour , Pedder bay . Partridge point . Plumper cove ; Howe , Pender harbour point , Portland uanal , Possession point , Principe channel , Prideaux haven , Portier pass , Quatsino narrows ... , sound , Qlawdzeet anchorai;:e , Race islands , Refuge bay , Rendezvous islands ... , Rip islands , Roche harbour , Rosario strait , Sabine channel , Safety cove , Sargeaunt passage ... , Seattle , Seechelt arm , , Seymour narrows .. , Schooner retreat , Scott cape , Shadwell passage .. , Shoal harbour , Simpson port , Skidegate inlet , SUngsby channel .. — ^— — ^-— narrows .. — , Smith sound , SO IIMS Page. ... 371 ... 507 ... 508 ... 99 ... 30 ... 259 ... 102 ... 34 ... 2f.3 ... 61 ... 345 ... 425 ... 354 ... 510 ... 150 ... 502 ... 63 ... 3t;9 ... 119 ... 74 . . 38 sound 214 ... 220 ... 1(55 ... 515 ... 43 ... 490 ... 2.32 ... i;w ... 3S3 ... 380 ... 471 ... 73 ... 469 ... 239 ... i97 ... 104 158,166 ... 217 ... 402 ... 277 ... 51 ... 223 ... 250 ... 400 ... 310 ... 305 ... 27".» ... 466 ... 636 ... 297 ... 394 Tides, Sooke inlet , Squirrel cove , Stamp harbour , Steilacoom , Stephens port , Stuart anchorage .. , Su quash anchorage , Sunday harbour , Sunderland channel.. , Sutil channel , Sutlej channel , Surge narrows , Tacoma , Takush harbour , Telctrraph harbour , Tolmie channel , Topaze harbour , Townsend port , Tracey harbour , Tredweil bay , Trincomali channel , Tucker bay , Vancouver harbour island, west coast , Viner sound , Waddington harbour . Wasp channel , Welcome harbour , Wellbore ch.innel , Wilson point Tide islet, Gorpre harbour Rip islands, tides Tie island Time, Standard Tin in ow e inlet Titul island Tl ell river Tlekhonsity harbour Tlupana arm Tmaitlek island Toandos peninsula Toba inlet Tod creek Todd rock , Barclay sound Toe point , Tofino inlet Toliva shoal, buoy Tolmie channel, caution ... , directions, tides. rock Tom Brown lake point Page. ... 72 ... 227 ... .322 ... 60 ... 48S ... 440 ... 267 ... 281 ... 257 ... 2X\ ... 288 239, 251 ... 56 ... 396 ... 123 ... 42'.> ... 25S ... 41 ... 2S7 ... 299 ... 133 ... 216 ... 183 312 283 211 152 494 256 37 234 497 395 2 540 529 537 477 349 496 65 233 115 87 31S 172 339 o9 428 42ir ... 429 ... 277 ... 112 2 P w 594 INDEX. Tombstone bay Tomlinaon mount Tongass iHland, directions ... narrows Tongue point, light , Hernando island Tonkin point Too witl Topaze harbour • , tides Top-knot point Toquart harbour Tow hill Townsend port , directions, light... , repairs, signals, tides Page. , 513 , 506 , 47r> 18 , 169 . 226 . 490 . 42.S . 257 . 258 . 387 . 330 . 540 . 39 . 40 Towry head Tracey harbour, ancliora^'e, tides. island Trade island ... Trafiford point Trail bay cove, Work channel islets Trainer passajre Tramp harbour Trap, the bluff island rocks Tranquil creek TreadwcH l)ay li'les Tree bluff, Chatham sound , Portland cantil ... island islet. Cypress harbour , Lama passage ... . Skidegate inlet .. islets. Walker group ... Tree-nobs group point, Portland canal reef Trefusis point Trementon mount Trevan rock Trevenou bay Trial islands Triangle islet island , Tribune bay channel ,. 41 . 243 ,. 287 ,. 281 .. 489 .. 285 .. 214 .. 466 .. 215 .. 281 .. 55 .. 407 . HiKi .. 279 ... 486 ,.. 339 ,.. 298 ... 299 ... 467 ... 511 ... 109 ... 288 ... 412 ... 534 ... 308 ... 467 ... 511 ... 511 ... 506 202,215 ... 519 ... 229 ... 85 ... 535 ... 311 199, 208 ... 284 Trincomali channel , directions , tides ... Trinity bay Trivet point Trivett island Trollope point Trouble island Trout river Truro island Truscott patch Tsa ko nu cove Tsckwai Tsimpscan peninsula Twkutsko point Tsoo skatli inlet Tsusiat waterfall Tuara mount Tucker bay , tides Tuft island Tug Tug well island, buoy Tulalip Tumbo island, reef, buoy ... Tumwater village Tuna point Tupper rock Turku point ; Turn island, Barclay sound ' point, light, ion signal , Lewis channel , Portland canal , Quatsino narrows , Shadwell passage Tumagain island TurnbuU cove reef Tumour island Turret island Turtle back range island point Twilight point reefs, rock Twin island -, rock, beacon islands islets, Clayoquot sound , Ogden channel , Queen Charlotte sound mountains rock ... Page. ... 130 ... 132 ... 133 ... 266 ... 431 ... 289 ... 72 ... 484 ... 249 ... .">04 ... 469 ... 277 ... 405 446, 4.'.2 65 ... 541 ... 313 ... 108 ... 215 .. 216 ... 526 ... 184 ... 452 ... tJ7 ... 172 ti3 ... 258 ... 185 ... 61 ... 317 ... 100 ... 227 ... 513 . . 383 ... 305 ... 218 ... 292 ... Ill 270, 273 ... 297 ... 153 ... 326 ... 482 ... 409 ... 271 ... 131 ... 139 ... 119 ... 335 ... 501 282 523 26S INDEX. nos Twin rocks, Ripple passage Twins, the Twins islands Twenty-feet rook Tzaartoos island Uchucklesit harbour Ucliielet arm , direotions ... Ugly channel Umatilla reef, light-vessel... Uniform system of buoj'age Union anchorage, wharf ... . Portland inlet ... city (village) island lake passage spit, beacon ... Unit rock Upright channel, hill cliff Up wood point Ursula channel Useless arm bay, settlement Ut te was village ... Utsalady , buoys Page. ,. 295 ,. 3.56 ,. 22(! ,. 373 ,. 319 320 331 333 321 25 H 203 114 51)4 6G 3(il 49 484 201 92 14r, 121 215 431 325 42 .540 69 68 Vargas cone ... island Yoshon island — point Veiicb point ... Vendovi island Venn creek ... Verdure point Vere cove Verney falls ... passage Vernon bay ... Vesuvius bay... Vertical point 221 184 182 Valdes island 130,236 Vachie anchorage 203 Vancouver b.ay • harbour, anchorage, coal, tug , light, town ... comjnunica- tions, sup- plies, tides ... island, west coast, caution, tides rock i4t;, Vansittart island 183 312 418 305 Laskeek bay Page. . 334 . 335 . 53 , 54 . 447 . I(i3 , 455 ... 514 ... 253 ... 438 400, 432 ... :t28 ... 122 ... 531 ... 5;{1 SO Victoria harbour, navigable depths , anchorage, direc- tions S2 , beacons, lights, pilots ■'<1 , coal, slip, sup- plies, tides ... S3 , communications, telegraph. quarantine mouat View point Vitrilant point Vigis point ... Village bay, Belize inlet ... , Iloskyn inlet , islands, Skidegate island, Barclay sound , Barrier group • , Knight inlet ■ , Port Simpson , Skeena river islands, Koskecmo bay islet. Forward inlet passage point, reef, buoy ... reef, Barclay sound rocks, buoy Barclay sound Vincent island Viner point sound, tides Virago sound , tides Virgin rocks Viscount island Viti rock rocks ... 84 222 ... 4t;s ... 247 ... 289 ... 300 ... 237 ... 534 ... 326 ... 31)6 ... 272 462, 465 ... 447 ... 381 ... 378 ... 272 201,203 ... 326 ... 76 ... 324 ... 286 ... 237 ... 283 ... 541 ... .542 ... 390 ... 276 ... 167 ... 163 SOfi INDEX. Voak rock Von Donop creek ... Page. . 290 . 2.S« -, tides Wa watl village — wattle bay Waddington channel harbour Wah ka na bay Wah shih las Wakeman sound Wakennenish island Walan point Walbran island rock Waldron island Wales island, point Walker group ■ hook point rock, beacon Wall island Wallace bight islands rock, Edye passage Walsh cove Wanderer island Wannock river Warke island Warn bay Warrblufif Warren islands Warrior rocks, caution Warspite rock Washington harbour — lake mount Wasp channel, tides island islands passages, directions ... Watch island rock Watcher islets Watmouth head, hill Wutsak point, buoy ... .SOO ... 29!» ... 232 ... 240 ... 241 ... 284 ... 278 ... 283 ... 3J4 ... 40 ... 401 ... 408 ... 104 477; 504 ... 308 ... 131 ... 40.-, ... 132 ... 144 ... 427 ... 296 ... 46j ... aOo ... 623 ... 401 ... 430 ... 338 ... 274 ... 260 ... 468 ... 248 ... 34 ... 50 ... 206 ... 152 ... 140 ... 160 ... 151 ... 415 ... 390 485,486 ... 159 ... 69 Page. Watson bay 427 island 292 rook 441 Watts inner point 212 Waverly peak 4.'>(» Weaddah point 30 Webster island 32S Wedge island 274, 38)» point. Cone island 42.'> rock, Klemtoo passage ... 426 Welcome harbour, directions ... 493 , tides 494 pass, point 217 Wellbore channel, tides 251! Wells pass 2.'<(i point 45 Wentworth rock 290 Wepusec inlet ,. 62 Werner bay 524 We-ser islet 303 West arm, Quatsino sound 383 bank 143 Devil rock 475 Haycock island 310 narrows, Skidegate channel 546 Orcas sound 163,154 passafre. Farewell harbour .. point, light, fog signal rock. Goose islands ■ , Milbank sound rocks, buoy , Kyuquot sound Seattle ... ... ... .. Westcott creek Westerman bay Westham island, beacon Westminster point Western channel, Barclay sound .. , directions reef, Barclay sound VVeynton passage Whatcone village, creek, coal Whale channel islet rock, buoy , Retreat passage rocks Whaler island Whaleton bay Wheeler islet. . Wheelock pass Whidbey island Whiffinspit ... . 271 . 49 . 495 . 417 . 192 . 361 . 52 . 103 . 300 . 176 . 410 . 328 , 329 . 323 . 264 . 104 . 484 . 106 . 77 . 278 . 137 . 336 . 234 . 489 . 411 . 38 71,72 tN'DHX. 597 White Hoach I my Page. . 151 . 272 — bluff, Hjdt ; Baynua Hound 201, 2i>l --cliff — , Rol)ort.s point — heiwl — inland, Arthur patiMa(,'e . Ptin hay — inlands, Kni;,'ht inlet... isliind, Nalau passage point, llowo wound iHland, IIowc Hound , Quocii Charlotte sound -• - ialaiid.". OundaH f,'roup — islet . llagi,'ed ishind — N'oh poini. Knif^ht inlet — Pino (M)Vi! — point, Darwin sound . PiirtlaJid eanal — river — - rock, hiKiy . Ari-taza))le island , caution . Channel group , Doufjlas channel , Howe sound ... , Milbank sound , Rosario strait , Secret cove ... , Stuart channel , Walker group — rocks, Banks island... , Dundan group , Lake island ... , Saanitch inlet . Smith sound... spit, point Stone ... Whitehorn point Whitesand islet Whitestone islands .. IJoint Whiting bank Whitley point Whirlwind bay Whiting bank Whollochet bay Wilfred point Willaclagh William head, lights point, light SO 11948 14<! 17(1 3(52 141 4. -.8 274 4!i4 211 •-•12 2!)7 475 214 225 27r, 81(1 52(j 513 5.5 77 4'j(; 104 501 141 212 417 l(i3 218 121 308 500 472 422 114 393 133 413 l(i8 473 218 382 438 472 404 182 59 249 446 75 164 Pago. Williams island 219 point 52 WilliauHoii rock ... IGO WilU's island 305 Willis jK)iiit 115 Willow point 248 Wilson island 291 point, light, fog signal, tide Winchidsca islands ... Wimbledon mountains Winds, ,Juan ilc Fueu strait , north of Vanojuver island , Queen Charlotte islands ., , strait of (Seorgia , Es(iuiinalt ... , (/(iorgia strait . Skeena river Wimly islet ... irilots, rock ... Winif point, buoy Wise island ... Wishart peninsula Winter cove ... harbour Wizard isbmd i.slet Wolf rock point ... Wolfe island Wo(k1 island ... islands... rocks ... Wootlcouk landing ... Woods point ... Woodward slough, buoys Woody point Wootten bay Work channel Worlcombe island ... Wrangell port, strait Wreck bay point Wright sound, directions Wyatt bay Wynyard point ... 37 19.5, 197 ... 431 8 9 10 9. 195 HO ... 195 ... 448 ... 511 ... 483 ... 47 ... 131 ... 284 9s ... 379 ... 321 ... 31.S ... 493 218, 48,s ... 72 ... 420 ... 338 ... 394 ... 44(i ... 288 ... 17(i ... 371 ... 230 ... 4(iG ... 212 ... 18 ... 333 ... 499 ... 434 239, 251 ... 292 2Q 598 TNDK.X. Xttohwan Page. Yale town Yat za villixRo Ycll(K!ki Villil)r(! Yclldw biiiik ... bliill', Alert h\xy Clitl' ancliorjifjrt' iHlivnd , light, BuyncH Hound islet — , Discovery piiHSiiKe —, PnivoHt imwsiigo • point, Kulleet bay ■ rock, Health bay Yemoalt point Yeo tslaml islands ... Iti7, 174 .-.42 4 '.».•. :W7 wr, 13 1 150 200 110 217 ii:( 120 278 47 4i:< l'.t7 Yew point Yolk |)oint \ iirk iHlnnd ... Young island... pasHa^'u point ... Yule islet ... Yiilkat blufr ... Yiuiuot |)oint, village Zayas island ... Zeballos arm... Zi'ptiinc head... Zero rock, Haro strait .beacon . Ilivurs inlet Pago. 77 4H7 •2:,H ir.l 253 21ti a70 Zuviarte channel 472 :(.■.!» 22H '.»2 1(2 401 34 H 599 i:»7 j.-.s 21(> •MO :U(; 172 :».•)!» 22H '.•2 '.»2 ltd :tiN LIST OF SAILING DIRECTIONS, «&c., PUBLISHED BY THE HYDROGRAPHIC DEPARTMENT OF THE ADMIRALTY. JULY 1901. Title. General. Ocean passage hook, lat edition, 1H95 .... BuiTisii Islands. Channel Pilot, part 1. South-west and south coasts of England, 9th edition, 1H99 ■ '■ 2. Coast of Franco and the Channel islands, 6th edition, 1897 Supplement, 1900 North Sea Pilot, part 1. Shetland and Orkneys, 4th edition, 1894 Supplement, 1898 — 2. North and East coasts of Scotland, Slh edition, 18f>5 - .' . . Revised Supplement, 19(X) 3. East coast of England, from Berwick to the North Foreland, including the Estuary of the Thames, and rivers Thames and Medway, 6th edition, 1897 Supplement, 1900 * 4. Shores of tlie North Sea, from Calais to the Skaw, 5th edition, 1892 Supplement, 1896 •Sailing directions for the West coast of Scotland, Cape Wrath to Mull of Galloway, including the Heliridos or Western islands, 4th edition, 1894 . - - . . Hydrographic Notice, No. 3, of 1897 - •Sailing directions for the West coast of England, from Scilly islands to the Mull of GalloAvay, also the Isle of Man, 4th edition, 1901. Hydrographic Notice, No. 3, of 1895 .... •Irish Coast Pilot, 1893 - - - - - - Supplement, 1898 ...... North of Europe and Baltic Seas. Norway Pilot, part 1. The Naze to Christiania; thence to the- Kattegat, 3rd edition, 1897 - — — 2. From the Naze to North cape, thenco to Jacob river, 2nd edition, 1894 - Supplement, 1897- . - - - Arctic Pilot, vol. 1, sailing directions for the Barents, Kara, and White seas, comprising also the North coast of Russia from the Jacob river to the Yenisei, Ist edition, 1898 ..... Baltic Pilot, part 1, containing directions for the Kattegat, the Sound, Belts, and channels to the Baltic, 3rd edition, 1895 . . . - - Supplement, 1900 ■ • - • Price. $. d. 1 6 2 6 3 6 6 2 6 (} 4 (> 1 .3 6 3 6 1 4 2 6 3 6 6 4 6 6 8 6 5 1 7i (3)17274.-2. ♦ RevisioDB in progress. 500.- -6/01. Wt. 6978. 2 u 600 Title. Price. NoiiTii OP Europe and Baltic Seas — cont. Baltic Pilot, part 2, comprislDg the Baltic sea, the gulf of s. d. Finlaurl, ami the gulf of Bothnia, 3rd edition, 1896 - - 4 8 Supplement, 1900 - - - - - - 2 6 Atlantic and Meditesranban, Ac. Arctic Pilot, vol. 2. Containing sailing directions for the Faeroe islands, Iceland, Jan Mayen and Spitzbergcn and the East coast of Greenland. (In progress.) ♦Fffiroe Islands Pilot, 1891 - - - - .0 9 ^Information relating to currents, ice, and magnetism, with general remarks on the coast of Iceland, 1891 • - 1 'Icelandic Pilot, port 1. Coast from cape Reykjanes to Stigablid, 1897 10 Sailing directions for the West coasts of France, Spain, and Portu- gal, from Ushant to Gibraltar strait, also the African coast from cape Spartel to Mogador, 6th edition, 1900 • - 4 Mediterranean Pilot, vol. I. Comprising Gibraltar strait, coast of , Spain, African coast from cape Spartel to gulf of Gabes, together with the Balearic, Sardinian, Sicilian, and Maltese islands, drd edition, 1894 - • - 5 Supplement, 1898 - --04 •■ 2. Comprising coast of France and of Italy to the Adriatic ; African coast from Jerbah to El Arish ; coasts of Kai%mania and Syria ; together with the Tuscan archi- pelago, and islands of Corsica and Cyprus, 3rd edition, 1895 - 5 Supplement, 1898 - - - 4 3. Comprising the Adriatic sea, Ionian islands, the coasts of Albania and Greece, to capj Malea, with Cerigo islands ; including the gulfs of Pattas and Corinth, 3rd edition, 1890 - - - 4 4. Comprising the Archipelago, with the adjacent coasts of Greece and Turkey; including also the island of Caudia or Crete, 3rd edition, 1900 - - - 4 Sailing directions for the Dardanelles, sea of Marmara, Bosphorus, and Bluck sea, 5th edition, 1900 - - - - 3 6 North America and West Indies. Newfoundland and Labrador Pilot. Comprising also the strait of Helle-islo, the North-east and part of the North coasts of Labrador, 3rd edition, 1897 - - - - 6 6 Supplement, 1899 - - - - - - 1 Sailing directions for the South-east coast of Nova Scotia and bay of Fundy, Ith edition, 1894 - - - -40 Supplement, J 000 - - - - - - 6 * Will be superseded daring 1901, bj Arctic pilot, Vol. 8. 601 Title. Price North AmbriOa and West Indies — cont. s. d. St. Lawrence Pilot, vol. 1. Containiog sailing directions for the gulf and river St. Lawrence, Gtli edition, 1894 - • - 3 6 Supplement, 1001 - - - 4 ■■ 2. Containing sailing directions for the southern parts of the gulf of St. Lawrence, and for its south entrance through Chedabucto bay and the gut of Caiiso, 6th edition, 1 895 ■ .3 6 Sailing directions for the East coast of the United States of America, Ist edition, 1899 - - - - 3 West India Pilot, vol. 1. From cape Orr.rsge in Brazil to cup(! Sable in Florida, with the adjacent islands, dth edition, 1893 - -30 Hydrographic Notice, No. 2 of 1806 - 1 — — — — ^— 2. The Caribbean sea, from Barbados to Cuba, with Florida strait, Bahama, and Bermuda islands, 5th edition, 1899 • 6 SouTU America and Pacific Ocean. South America Pilot, pa.c 1. East coast of Sout\ America, from cape St. Iloque to c«pe Virgins, with the Falkland, South Georgia, Sandwich, and South Shetland islands; also the North coast from cape St. Roque to cape Orange in FrenchGuiana,4thedition,1803 4 Supplement, 1806 - - 6 ■■.. — — — 2. Comprising Magellan strait, Tierra del Fuego, and West coast of South America from cape Virgins to Pauauia bay, also the Galdpagos islands, 9th edition, 1805 ■ • 7 (i Supplement, 1898 • - 6 Sailing directions for the West Coasts of Central America and the Unite<l States, 1st edition, 1890 - - - 3 Supplement 1901. {In progress.) British Columbia Pilot. Coast of British Columbia from Jnaii de Fuca strait to Portland canal, together with Vancuiivcr and Queen Charlotte island*, 2nd edition, 1898 • • ,5 c Supplement, 1899 - . (j Sailing directions for I3ering sea and Alaska, 1st edition, 1809 • 4 Africa. Africa Pilot, part 1. From cape Spartel to the river Cameroon, including the Azores, Madeira, Canary, and cape Verde islands, 6th edition, 1899 - 4 m - 2. From the river Cameroon to the cape of Good Hope, including Ascension, St. Helena, Tristan da Cunha, and Qough islands, 5th edition, 1901 • - - 3 6 602 3 G 4 4 4 6 G 5 9 Title. Price. Africa — cont, ». d. Africa Pilot, part 3. South and East coasts of Africa from the cape of Good Hope to cape Guardafui, also islands in the main route ihiough Mozambique channel, 6th edition, 1807 - 4 Supplement, 1900 - - - 8 Indian Ocean, Ac. Red Sea and Gulf of Aden Pilot. Containing description of the Suez canal, the gulfs of Suez ana Aki bah, the Red ma and strait of Bab-cl-Mandeb, the gulf of a.(len with Sokdtra and a<ljacent islands, and part of tht) Eastern coast of Arabia, 5th edition, lt)00 -.-.-- Persian Gulf Pilot. The gulf of Oman, and the Makran coast, 4th edition, 1898 . . » . West coast of Hindustan Pilot, including the Gulf of Mantir, the Maldive and Lakadive islands, 4th edition, 1899 *Bay of .Bengal Pilot. Containing sailing directions for the baj of Bengal, and the adjacent coi\sls of Hindustan, Burma and Siam, together with Ceylon, the Nicobar and Andaman islands, and the north coast of Sumatra, 2nd edition, 1892 Hydrographic Notice, No. 4, of 1895 - . - - Islands in the Southern Indian ocean westward of longitude 80"^ E., including Madagascar, 1891 Supplement, 1898 - - - - - - China Sea, Austhaija, New Zkaland. China Sea Directory, vol. I. Containing approaches to the China sea, by Malacca, Singa))ore, Sunda, B«nka, Gaspar, Carimata, Rhio, Berhalii, and Durian straits, 4th <>ditlon, 1890 - - - 4 Supplement, 1899 - - - - 8 • 2. Directions for the China nea lietween Singapore and Hong-Kong, 4th edition, 1898 . . - 4 Supplement 1901. • .___. 3. Comprising the coast of Chiua, from Houg-Kong to the Korea ; north coast of Luzon, Formosa island and strait ; the Babuyan, Bashi, and Meiaco Sima groups ; Yellow sea, gulfs of Pechili and Liautung. Also the rivers Canton, West, Min, Yung, Yangtze, Yellow, Pei IIo, niid Liau Ho, and Pratas island, 3rd edition, 1894 - - 4 6 Supplement, 1898 - - - 4 # ._ 4. f Comprising the coast of Korea, Russian Tartary, Japan islands, gulfs of Tartary and Amur, and the sea of Okhotsk ; nlso the Meiaco, Liukiu, Linechoten, Mariana, Bonin, Saghalin, and Kuril islands, 3rd edition, 1894 - 3 G Supplement, 1898 - • -04 • Undur revi»iou. \ The directionn for the Mariaua islanda will not b<j contained in the next odition, M they are now embodied in Paoi€c iilaudt, part I. 603 5 8 5 « Title, Price. China Sea, Australia, New Zealand— con^. «, d. Baslern Arcliipelsgo, part 1. Comprising the Philippines, Sulu archipelago, North-6ast coast of Borneo, Celebes sea. North-east coast of Celebes, Molucca and Gillolo puHHages, Banda and Arafura seas. North-west and West coastH of New Guinea, and North coast of Australia, l8t edition, 1890 - - - 4 Revised Supplement, 1898 - • * 2. Comprising the South-east coast of Sumatra, Java, the iHlands east of Java, Celebew, and the South and East coasts of Borneo, 1st edition, 1893 Sapplement, 1899 - - - Australia Directory, vol. 1 . South and East coasts, liaea strait, and Tasmania, 9th edition, 1896 - Supplement, 1900 . - - ■ 2. Comprising the East coast from Sydney lo Torres strait. Torres strait. Coral sea. Also a part of Carpcutariu gulf, 5th edition, 1898 4 Supplement, 19(K). - - - 3. North, North-west, and West coasts, from the gulf of Carpentiria to capo Leeuwin, with directions for passages thiough the neighbouring seas, 3rd edition, 1895 - - 4 Supplement, 1898 - - - New Zealand Pilot, including also the Chatham islands, and the off-lying islands southward of Now Zealand, 7th edition, 1901 ....... 5 Pacific Islamls, vol. 1 (Western groups). Sailing directions for the South-east, Northeast, and North coasts of New Guinea, Louisiadc, d'Entrecaateau, Solomon, New Ireland, New Britain, Admiralty, Caroline and Mariana islaiid.'j, 3rd edition, 1900 - - - 5 2. (C'entral groups). Sailing directions for New Caledonia, Loyalty, New IIebride.<«, Fiji, Tonga, Samoa, Union, Plicjcnix, EUice, Gilbert, and Marshall groups, 3r(l edition, 1900 . - - - 6 'A, (Eastern groups). Containing sailing directions for Tulwii, Cook, and Society islands ; Tuamotu, or Low archipelago ; Marquesas ; Line islands, and Sandwich or Hawaiian islandu, 3rd edition, 1900 . 3 6 G 6 * RevUion in progreni. 604 Title. Price. Tables. $. d. *Towf*ou'H great circle tables - - - - - 1 San's true bearing or azimuth tables (Burdwood) between the parallels of 30° and 60'^ inclusive, 1894 - - - 4 6 Deviation op the Coiipass, &c. Practical rules for ascertaining and applying the deviation of the compass, 1899 - - - - - - 6 Admiralty manual for ascertaining and applying the deviations of the compass, 0th edition, 1893 - - • -SO Questions and answers relating to the compass, 1898 - -02 Part Part Part Part I II III IV Part Part V VI Part VII Part VIII L18T8 OF Lights. — Corrected annually/ to the 3lst December. — Britisli islands - - - - — North sea and White sea ... —Baltic sea - . - - . . —Western shores of Europe and Africa from Dun- kern ue to the Capo of Good Hope, including Azores, Madeira, Canary, Cape Verde islands, &c. —Mediterranean, Blach, Azov, and Bed .seas —South Africa, East Indies, Chii^a, Japan, Australia, Ta.smania, and N.?w Zealand —South America, \vest?rn cn««t of North America, Pacific islands, &c. —Eastern shores of North America and Central America from Labrador to tlic river Amacon, including Bermuda auit :s!»nds of the West Indies 1 6 2 2 1 G 1 6 2 1 2 6 Tides. Tide tnblcH for British and Irish port«, and also the times of high water for the princip'"l places on the Globe (published annually) Notes on the tidal streams at tlio entrance of the English cbaunol 1 6 1 MiSCEIXANEOnfl. Catalogue of charts, plans, and sailing directions, corrected annually to Slst December - - - - Admiralty manual of scientific enquiry Signs and abbreviations adopted in the Admiralty charts - Itemarks on revolving storms, 3rd edition, 1883 List of time isignals established in vuriouB part.8 of the world, 1901 Distjmci>8 and heights ---.... Dock book, containing dimensions of the wet and dry docks, patent slips, Ac, of the world, with information relating to shipbuilding and engineering works, 1900 On the Station pointer, and the manner of fixing a ship's position byits aid, 1886 - - . . . Notes bearing on the navigation of H.M. Ships, 1900 Index to Notices to Mariners, 1900 .... 1 2 6 6 3 I 6 10 1 2 Undergoing roviiion. 605 ADMIRALTY AGENT FOR THE SALE OP CHARTS. London J. D. Potter » Babry Uelpabt Bristol Cardikf » » »» Cork CowKs vWe»t) >» n Dartmouth - Dover - Dublin »> Dundee Falmouth Glasgow Grrbnock )i Grimsby Hartlepool - Harwich - Hull Lkith Liverpool - »» i» i» »> London »i * ' Londonderry Maryport MiDDLKsniiouon Newcastle -on-Tyne »» »• Newport, Mow. North Shields Oban Plymouth Portsea Portsmouth « Qubbnstown • South Shields Southanpton SUB-A(iENT8 - 145, Minori??, E. - U, King St., Tower lljll, E. (In the United Kingdom). T. L. Ainsley F. M. Moore C. W. Price T. J. Williams T. L. Ainsley Wilson & Gillie, Bruce & Son - - - - Dobbie. Hutton, & Gohl)i»> A. W. Sutton & Co. G. H. May & Co. Pascal), Atkey & Son Cranford <fc Son • C. Clout - Hodges, Figgis & Co., Ltd. F. M. Moore P. A. FfRthers & Son Williams & Co. Whyte, Thomson & Co. A. Dobbie & Son D. McGregor & Co. R. Love - A. Dobbie & Son - O. T. Olsen - G. Pearson John Groom & Sons Newton Brothers W. Hakes D. Stalker - Philip, Son Si Nephew John Parks & Son Frodshum & Keen - John Bruce & Son - D. McGregor & (^o. J. Imray & Son, Ltd. E. SUnford - E. A. Miunioco - Quinlin Moore Con8t<intine,Pickering & CV. Docks. M. S. Doddtt - - 61, Quayside 1, Tip. 102, High Street. 1 and 2, Broad Quay. 3, Bute Docks. Primavesi Chambers, James Street. 107, Bute Street. •17, George Street. 46, Warren Place. 12G and 127, High Street. 20, High Street. Library, Fairfax Place. 13.5, Suargate Street. 104, Grafton Street. 23, Eden Qu«>. - 43, Dock Street. - The Quay. - 144, Broomielaw. - 45, Clyde Place. - 37, Clyde Place. - 17, West Blacklml! 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Moore & Co. A. B. Smalley Ayre & Son George Knowling - Lane, Crawford &, Co. Hirsbrnnner & Co. - Kelly & Walsh - Hon. Sec. and Treasurer Turner & Henderson Takata & Co. Charles Potter - ThomsonStationeryCo.jLtd Hibben h Co. Port Officer - - Divett St., Port Adelaide. Prins Hendrikkade, No. 90. 29, Wilhelm Strasse. 13, Unter den Linden. 72, Sinidt Strasse. Queen Street. Booksellers. Dock Road. Shipchandler. Libraries. Steinhoft L 9, Stubbcnbuk. 61, Neuer Wall. 13 and 15, Rue dc Paris. Merchants. Booksellers. Queen's Road Central. Custom House. 17, Quai de la Fraternity. 340, Little Collins Street. 1640 - 1642, N6tre Dame Street. 46 & 48, Hunter Street. 128, Front Street. 224, Rue de Rivoli. 17, Rue Jacob. Divett Street. Booksellers. The Point. Shipping Agents. Shipping Agents. 118 & 120, Mountain Hill. 91, Prince William Street. 231, Water Street. Shipping Agent. Merchants. 1, Nankin Road. Shipping Agents. Sailors' Home. 16 & 18, Hunter Street. Merchants. 31, King Street. 108, Cordova Street. 66, Government Street. Post Office. W ■ 4 NoTB.—- The ngenu io Tokyo for JapancM oharta are the Nippon Yumo Kaitiia, ■■^■i-