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IN less than forty-eight hours after you leave Sau Francisco you find yourself crossing the bar which lies at the mouth of the Columbia River, and laughing, perhaps, over the oft-told local tale of how a captain, new to this region, lying oft' and on with his vessel, and impatiently signaling for a pilot, was temporarily comforted by a passenger, an oldCalifornian, who " wondered why Jim over there couldn't take her safe over the bar." " Do you think he knows the sound- ings well enough ?" asked the anxious skip- per; and was answered, " I don't know about that, captain ; but he's been taking all sorts of things ' straight' over the bar for .about twenty years, to my knowledge, antl I should think he might manage the brig." The voyage from San Francisco is almost all the way in sight of land ; and as you skirt the mountainous coast of Oregon you see long stretches of forwt, miles of tall iirs killed bj' forest fires, and rearing their bare heads toward the sky like a vast assemblage of bean-j)oles — a barren view, which you owe to the noblo red man, who, it is said, sets fire to these great woods in order to jn'o- duce for himself a good crop of blueberries. When, some years ago,Walk-in-l he-Water, or Red Cloud, or some other Colorado chief, as- serted in Wa.shington the right of the Indian to hunt buflalo, on the familiar ground that he must live, a journalist given to figures de- molished the Indian position by demonstra- ting that a race which insisted on living on I bufi'alo meat required about 16,000 acres of ' land per head for its subsistence, which is more than even we can spare. One wonders, remembering these figures, how many mill- ions of feet of first-class lumlier are sacri- ficed to -irovide an Indian rancheria with huckleb« fries. On the second morning of your voyage yon enter the Cidumbia River, and stop, on the right bank, near the mouth, at a jdacc famous in history and romance, and fearfully disjippointing to the actual view — .\sforia. When you have seen it, you will wish you had passed it by unseen. I do not know precisely how it ought to have looked to have pleas(Ml my fancy, and realized tlie (Ircanis of my boyhood, when I read Honne- ville's Journal and Irving's Asioria, and imag- ined Astoria to 1)e the home of romance and of picturesque trappers. Any thing less ro- THE COLUMBIA RIVER AND PUGET SOUND. 33'J maiitic than Astoriit is to - (lay you can scarcely imagiuo ; and what is worse yot, your first view- shows yoii tliat the narrow, broken, ir- reclaimably ronj^h strip of land never had space for any thing picturesque or romantic. Astoria, in tialii consists of a very t. arrow strip of hill-s do, backed by a hill so steep that they can shoot timber down it, and is inclosed on every side by dense forests, high, steep hills, and mud Hats, and look- ing now like the rud- est VVesteru clearing you over saw. Its brief streets are ])aved wilh wood; its inhabitants wear their trowsers in their boots ; if you stop off the pavement you go deep iu the mud, aiul ton minutes' walk brings you to tho " forest primeval," which, picturesque as it may be in poetry, I confess to be drcarj' and monotonous in the extreme in reiility. There are but few remains of the old trapper station — one somewhat large house is tho chief relic ; but there is a saw- mill, which seems to make, with all its buzz and fuzz, scarcely an appreciable impression upon the belt of timber, which so shuts in Astoria that I thought I had scarcely room in it to draw a full breath ; and over to the left they pointed out to uw tho rosidonco of a gentleman — a geiu^ral, I think he was — who came hither twenty-six years ago in some ofllcial position, and had after a quar- ter of a century gained what seemed to mo from tho steamer's deck like a ten-acre lot from tho " forest primeval," about enough room to bury himself and family in, with a probability that tho tirs wouluiliiing erected on piles over tho water — and here they fall into the hands of Chinese, who get for their labor a dollar a day and their food. The salmon aro flung uj) on a stage, where they lie in heaps of a thousand at a time, a surprising sight to an Eastern person, for in such a pile you may see flsh weigh'ug from thirty to sixty pounds. The work of pre- paring them for tho cans is conducted with exact method and great cleanliness, water being abundant. One Chinaman seizes a (isli and cuts off his head ; the next slashes off the fnis and disembowels tlie fish ; it then falls into a largo vat, where the blood soaks out — a salmon bleeds like a bull — and after soaking and repeated washing in different vats, it falls at last into the hands of one of a gang of Chinese whose business it is, with beav," knives, to chop the fish into chunks of suitable size for the tins. These pieces are plunged into brine, and presently stuffed into the cans, it being the object to fill each can as full as possible with (ish, the bone being excluded. The top, which has a small hole pierced in it, is then soldered on, and five hundred tins set on a form aro lowered ijito a huge kettle of boiling water, where they remain until the heat has expelled all tho air. Then a Chinaman neatly drops a lit- tle solder over each pin-hole, and after an- other boiling, the object of which is, I be- lieve, to make sure that the cans are her- metically sealed, the process is complete, and the salmon are ready to take a journey longer and nion> remarkable even than that which their i>rogenit((rs took when, seized with tho curious rage of spawning, they as- cended tli(! C\>lnmbia, to (leposit their eggs in its head waters, near the centre of the continent. I was assured by the fishermen that the salmon do not decrease in numbers or in size, yet, in this year, 1873, more than two millions of pounds were put up m tin cans on the Lower Columbia alone, besides liftoen or twentj' thousand barrels of salted salmon. From Astoria to Portland is a distance of one hundred and ten miles, and as tho cur- rent is strong, tho steamer re<|uiris ton or twelve hours to make the tri]). As you ap- proach the mouth of the Willaniotte you meet more arabh; land, and the shores of this river are generally lower, and often al- luvial, like the Missouri and Mississippi bot- toms; and here yon find cattle, sheep, or- chards, and fields; and one who is familiar with the agricultural parts of Calilornia no- tices here signs of a somewhat sev<'rer cli- mate, in more substantial houses; and the evidence of more protracted rains, in green and luxuriant grasses at a season when the pastures of California have already begun to become brown. I Portland is a surprisingly well-built city, with so nnmy largt; shops, so many elegant dwellings, and other signs of prosperity, as will nuiko you credit tin; assertion of its in- habitants, that it contains more wealth in proportion to its population than any other town in the United States. It lies on the right bank of the Willamette, and is the cen- ' tre of a large commerce. Its inhabitants seemed to me to have a singular fancy for I plate-glass fronts in their shops and hotels, and oven in the private houses, which led me at first to suppose that there must be a ■ glass factory near at hand. It is all, I be- ! lieve, inii)orted. j From Portland, which yon can see in a 1 da}', and whoso most notable sigiit is a fine view of Mount Hood, obtainable from the hills back of the city, the sight-seer makes his excnrsionsi conveniently in various direc- tions; and as tho Anu'rican traveler is always I in a hurry, it is iierhaps well to show what time is needed : To the Dalles and Cclilo, and return to ; Portland, three days. I To Victoria, Vancouver's Island, and re- turn to Portland, including tho tour of Paget Sound, seven days. j To San Francisco, overland, by railroad to Koseburg, thence by stage to Redding, and rail to San Francisco, seventy-nine hours. j Thus you may leave San Francisco by ' steamer for Portland, see tho Dalles, the Cascades, Paget Sound, Victoria, the Wil- , lametto Valley, and the magnificent mount- ain scenerj' of Scnithern Oregon and North- ern California, and be bj'c'c in San Fran- cisco in less than three weeks, making abundant allowance for possible though not probable detentions on tho road. The time absolutely needed for the tour is but seventeen days. Of course ho who " takes a I run over to California" from the East, pre- t determined to be back in his oSico or shop within five or six weeks from tla; day he left home, can not see tho Columbia Kiver and Puget Sound. But travelers are begin- ■ ning to discover that it is worth while to spend sonn^ months on tho Pacific coast ; some day, I do not doubt, it will be fashion- I able to go across tho continent ; and those ! whose circinnstances give them leisure should not leave tho Pacific without seeing Oregon and Washington Territory. In the j lew pages which follow, my aim is to smooth the way for others by a very siuiide account of what I myself saw and enjoyed. And first as to tho Cascades and the Dalles of the Columbia. You leave Portland for Dalles City in a steamboat at five o'clock in the morning. The better Wi-y is-to sleep on 342 HARPER'S NEW MONTHLY MAGAZINE. -Q... "--nafiliil r • •^fe^ lioiTNT noon. board this steamer, and thus avoid an nn- comfortably early awaliwiing. Then when you do rise, at six or half past, you will find yourself on the Columbia, and steaming directly at Mount Hood, whose splendid snow-covered peak seems to bar your way, but a short distance ahead. It lies, in fact, a hundred miles off; and when you have .iailed some hours toward it, the river makes a turn, which leaves the snowy peak at one side, and presently hides it behind the steep bank. The little steamer, very clean and comfortable, att'ords you an excellent breakfast, and some amusement in the odd way in which she is managed. Most of the river steamers here have thinr propelling wheel at the stern ; they have very powerful engines, which drive them ahead with sur- prising speed. I have gone, sixteen miles an hour in one with tht! current ; and when they make a landing tlie pilot usually runs the boat's head slantingly against the shore, and passengers and freight arc taken in or landed over the l)ow. At the wood-pile on the shore you may usually sec one of the people called " Pikes," whom you will recog- uize by a very broad brimmed hat, a fre- quent squirting of tobacco juiee, and the po.ssession of two or three hounds, whom they call hereabouts " hound-dogs," as we say " bull-dog." And this reminds me that in Oregon they usually ask you if you will eat an "egg-omelet;" and they speak ot pork — a favorite food of the Pike — as " hog- meat." The voyage up the river presents a con- stant succession of wild and pict'.iresquc scenery ; immense rocky capes jut out into the broad stream ; for miles the banks are precipitous, like the Hudson River Palisades, only often much higher, and for other miles the river has worn its channel out of the roek, which looks bare and clean cut, as though it had Ijeen of human workmanship. The first ex])lorer of the Columbia, even if he was a very commonplace mortal, must have passed days of the most singular exhil- aration, especially if he .ascended the stream in that season when the skies are bright and blue, for it <«>enig to me one of the most magniticent sights in the wt>rld. I uni not certain that the wildiie-ss does not oiquc.'*.- one !i little after it while, and there are parts of the river where the smoothly cut elitl's, conung precipitously down to the water's ^'dge, aiul foUowing down, sheer down, to the river's bottom, make yon think witli terror of the unhappy people who might here be drowned, with this cold rock within THE COLUMBIA RIVER AND PIJOET SOUND. 343 I their reach, yot not afl'orrliii^; them even a inoiiiiMitury Hupport. I should like to have seen the. riigjred cliffs relieved here and there liy the HoftiieMS of Hmooth lawns, and some evidences that man had eonrinered even thif rude and resisting nature. But for a cen- tury or two to come the traveler will have to asHed those rapids, and carried her owiu^r, Mr. Ainsworth, who Wiw also for tl'is passage of the t^iseades hvf pilot, and myself safely into Portland. We steamed from Dalles City about three o'clock on an afternoon so windy as to make the Columbia very rough. When we arrived at the head I of the Cascades we found the shore lined I with peopU; to watch our passage through i the rapids. As we swept into the foaming and roaring waters the engine was slowed a little, and for a few minutes the pilots had their hands full ; for the fierce currents, sweeping her now to one side and then to the other, made the steering extraordinarily diffi- cult. At one ])oint there seamed a probabil- ity that we shonld be swept on to the rocks ; and it was very curious to stand, as General Spragne and I, the only passengers, did, in front of t e pilot-house, and watch the boat's head swing against the helm and toward the rocks, until at last, after half a minute of suspense, she began slowly to swing back, obedient to her pilot's wish. Wo made six miles in eleven minutes, which is at the rate of more than thirty miles per hour, a better rate of speed than steamboats commonly at- tain. Of course it is impossible to drive a vessel up the Cascades, and a steamboat which has once passed these rapids remains forever below. At the upper end of the Cascades a bo.it awaits you, which carries you through yet nu)re picturesr and variety of |ire-apressiut shal- low dish-like de- pressi(ms iii the heails of such lig- ures, wherein to burn incense, ibit they coidd not give Mr. Condon any account of the ape's lu'ad they brought him, nor did they reeognizv its features as re- sendding any ob- ject or creature fatniliar to them even by tradition. The Dalles of the Ctdinnbia are simply a succession of falls and rapids, not reaching over as great a distance as the Ca.scades, but contaiidng one feature much more remarka- ble than any thing which theCascadesalVord. and. indeed, so far as I know, fiumil nowhere else. The Ctduuibin above the Dalles is still • This tradition ii> tlic bacio of llic poem, "The IjC- Rpnil 01 tlic l'iii«cailti<," witti wlilcli tliiB NunitiiT of tlic Magazine opj-nn. THE COM'MIUA KIVKK AND I'lJOFT HOUND. •Mr, a ilfilidfta8 rivor, coiniuiriiltlo in in its ed^e. Ku|)]i<)se it is ahove the Dalles a mile wide and lifty feet deep; at the narrow nor^e it is hut a hundred yards wide— how deep must it he ! Certainly it (•an h(i ('orreetly said that the strcuui in turned u)> on its ed};(^ Till' Dalk's lie live or six miles ahovo Dalles (.'ity; and you pass these rapids in th<« train whieh hears you to Celilo early th(' next morning after you arrive at Dalles ('ity. Celilo is not a town ; it is simply a jreojrriiphieal point; it is the spot where, if you were hound to tlio interior of th uiti- neut hy water, you would take steamhoat. The re is here a very Ion;; shed to shelter the floods which are sent up into this far-away and, to us Kastern )ieople, unknown int<'rior ; there is u wharf where land the hoats when they return from ii Journey of perhaps a thousaiul miles on the Upper I'oluinhia or the Snake; tli;'re are twi> or three laborers' shautii'H — and that is all there is of Celi'o; and your Jouriu'y thither has been made only that you may hvv the Dalles ainl ("ape iioru, as a hold promontory on the riv(*r is ealled. What I advist^ you to do is to take a hearty linieh with yon, and, if yiui eaii tiud one, a nuitle, and ^et oft' thii early Celilo train at the Dalles. You will have a most ply them with meat. The weatlici in this \mit of (Jrefjon, east of th(> Cascade rau);e, is as settled as that of California, so that there is no risk in sleep- iufj out-of-doors. There is a siiif^ularly sudden climatic cliaufje between Western and Kastern Ore- j;oii ; and if yon ask the captain or pilot on the lu).'it which \>\w-n between the CascareKoii, a vast ),'raz- iuif rej;ion, has conipaialively little rain. Wyane is not enticin^f, and there are but slight incouveuiiuices in the short lanil journey. The steamer leavinj; Portland at six A.M. lands you at Kalamii about eleven ; there you jret diniu'r, and jtro- ctu'd about two by rail to Olymjiia. It is a ^ood plan to telegraph for aceiunniodations on the ju'etty an{o directly to her on your a; riv- al at Olympia. I'unet (Stuind is one of the nuist ]iirturesquo and renuirkable sln^ets of water in the world ; antl the voyaj;e from Olynijiia to Victoi'iii., which shows yon the greater jiart of tlie sonnps at places named Newauknm, Tiiniwa- ter, andToutle; and if you seek further, you will hear of wlioh! cotintics liibeled Wahkia- kum, or Snohomis',, or Kitsar, or Klikatat; and Cowlitz, Hookinn., and Neucdeloiis greet and otVeiid you. They comitlain in Olympia that Washington Territory gets but little im- inigriition; but what wouilerf What nuin, having the wiiole Anu'rican eontiuent to choose from, would willingly date his letters from the county of Snohomish, or bring up his children in the city of NenolelojiH f The village of Tumwater is, as J am ready to bear witness, very jiretty indecsd ; but surely an emigrant would think twice before he estab- lished himself (ut her there or at Tout le. Seat- tle is sulticieutly barbarous; Steil.'icoom is :Mfi HARPER'S NEW MONTHLY MAGAZINE. lil no Ixttti^r; anil T HUHpcct tlllkt tilt) Ni>rtht>rn riuMllo Kuilroail teriniium biM IttMdl fixed ut Tikcuiuu ln'cunso it is Olio of thii few plucuB on I'liget Sound whoHO niinic dot'H not inspi'-c horror mid diHf{"»t- Olynipia, whicli liuH oil an arm of Pugtit Sound, anil was ouco a town ol' groat expeetatioiiH, Hurprisos the trav- eh»r by its streotH. all sliadod with niaguillcent ma- ples. The founder of the town was a iiiau of taste; and ho set a fashion which, being followed for a few yi'.irs in this country of abundant rains, hus given Olynipia's streets shade ueos by the hun- dred, which would make it famous were it an Eastern place. Unluckily, it h.is littli> else to charm the traveler, though it is the capital of the Territory; and when you have spent half an hour walking through the streets you will be quite ready to have the steamer set oft' for Victoria. The voy- age lasts but about thirty-six hours, and would be shorter were it not that the steamer makes numerous landings. Thus you get glimpses of Seattle, Steihicoom, Ta- coma, and of the so-called saw-mill ports — Port Madison, Port Gamble, Port Ludlow, and Port Towusend — the lost named being also the boundary of our Uncle Samuel's do- minions for the present, and the port of entry for this district, with a custom-house which looks like a barn, and a collector and inspect- ors, the latter of whom examine your trunk as you return from Victoria to save you from the sin of smuggling. From Port Townsend your boat strikes across the straits of San Juan de Fiica to Victoria; and just here, aa you are crossing from American to English territory, yon get the most maguiflceut views of the grand Olympian range of mountains and of Mount Kegnier. Also, the captain will point out to you in the distance that famous island of San Juan, whii^h formed the subject or object, or both, ofour celebrated boundary dispute with Great Britain, aud you will wonder how small an object can nearly make nations go to war, and for what a petty thing we set several kings and great lords to studying geography and treaties and interuational law, and boring themselves, and tilling en- terprising newspapers with dozens of col- umns of dull history ; and you will wonder YANOOCVERB ISLAND, VIOTORIA IIABDOB. the more at the Htu])iil pertinacity of these English in dinging to the little island of San Juan when you reiii li Victoria, and see that we shall presently take that dull little town too, not because we want it or need it, but to save it from perishing of inanition. It is something to have taste and a sense of the beautiful. Certainly the Phiglish, who discovered the little land-locked harbor of Victoria, and chose it as the site of a town, dis]>layed both. It is by natural advantages one of the loveliest jdaces I ever saw, and I wonder, remote as it is, that it is not famous. The narrow harbor, which is not so big aa one of the big Liverpool docks, is surrounded on both sides by the prettiest little miniature bays, rock-bound, «lih grassy knolls, and hero and there shady clumps of evergreens ; a river opening out above the town into a kind of lake, and spanned by pretty bridges, invites you to u boating excursion ; ard the fresh green of the law^n-liko expanses of grass which reach into the bay from ditferent di- n^ctions, the rocky little promontories with lioats inoDicd near them, the fine snow-cov- ered mountains in the distance, and the pleasantly winding roads leading in ditVer- ent directions into the country, all make up a landscape whose soft and gay aspect I siip- jKise is the more delightful because one comes to it from the somewhat oppressive grandeur of the fir forests in Washington Territory. In the harbor of Victoria the most con- spicuous object is the long range of ware- houses belonging to the Hudsou IJay Conipa- THE COI-UMFJIA KIVKU AND I'UOKT SOUND. :i»7 ny, with tlifir littlf tnulin^; Hicaiiicirt iiiood'iI iil()ii;{ni(lc. Thi'sn vi'MHi'ls bear tlm n'tnun of tnillic witli JiHuviiK*^ |iiMi|)l(;iii tho hi^li boitrd- iiiK iiettiiiKH wliic'li Kiiitnl tli(>iii froiii Hteiii to dturn, unil which nnt in tlicir iiioruHolid \nirtn pittrcfd for iiiimkutry. Ht'nt, too, you hoo a iiut'cr littluohl HtuHinlioat, thu lifHt thattsvcr v«!Xf(l tlu) wat««rH of tlic l'acill(! Ocean with itH padiUu-whuuls. AniliM your own Htuani- ••r IiuuIh up to till) wharf, you will uoticu, ar- niyi'd to ri'ceivo you, what in no doubt tho nioHt ohoekiiiK uiul eoni|il tu collectiou of ugly women in tho world. TIu-ho are tho IndiauH of this region. Thoy aro very light- eidortid ; their coin|)lcxiun hiM an urtilicial look ; thoro in Hoiuuthing ghiuitly and uunut- iiral in the yellow of tho facoH, iienetnited by a rose or carmine color on tho uheekH. They art) hideou.'i in all tho pusHiblo awpoctH and varieticH of liideoUHUeHH — undersized, miuat, evil-eyed, pug-noHod, tawdry in dross, un- graceful in I very motion; thoy really mar tho lau(i.,L' I, c , 80 that y')u are glad to escapo from them to your hotel, which you iind ;i (l.au and comfortable building, where, if you aro as fortunate as tho traveler who relates this, you may catch a glimpse or two of a fresh, fair, girlish Englii^h face, which will make up to you for tho precedent ugli- UOSH. Victoria hopes to have its dullness enlivened by a rail- road from the main- land one of these days, which maj' make rt more jtrosperous, but will |)robably destroy some of tlio ehariii it now has for a tourist. Ir can hardly destroy the e.\cel- lent roads by which you may take several pictiires(|u<« drives aiir of Customs at I'ort Townsend. If you use your time well, tho thirty-six hours vlnch the steamer spends at Victoria \ U Hufll' '• you to se ■ all that is of interest ^re to a traveler, and you can return in her down tin) sound aiul make more pernmnont your i-.ni I'ssions of its scenery. You w'U perhi4p8 be startled, if you chance to overhear i-ho conversution of your fellow- passengers, to gather that it concerns itself chieily witli millions, and these millions run to such extraordinary figures that you may hear one man pitying another for the conl'cs- sion that ho made no more thru a hundred millions last year. It is feet of lumber they are speaking of; and vs-hen you seethe mon- strous i>ilns of sawdust which oticumber tho mill ports, tho vast quantities of waste stnfl' they burn, and the huge rafts of timber which aro towed down to the mills, as well as the ships which lie there to load for South America, Tahiti, Australia, and California, you will not longer wonder that they talk of millions. Some of these mills are owned by very wealthy companies, who have had A SAW-MII.I- 348 HARPER'a NEW MONTHLY MAGAZINE. ' ,•■. ^,,^^ / '•• BALEM, OBKQON. the good fortune to buy at low rates larjje tracts of the best timber lauds lying along tlie rivers and bays. A saw-mill is the cen- tre of quite a town — and a very rough town too, to judge from the appearance of the men who come down to the dock to look at the steamer, and the repute of the Indian women, who go from port to port and seem at home among the mill men. Having gone by sea to Oregon, I should advise you to return to California overland. The journey lies by rail through the fertils Willamette Valley, for the present the chief agricultural country of Oregon, to Rosebnrg, and thence by stage over and through some of the most picturesque and grand scenery in America, into California. If yon are curious in bizarre social experiments, you may very well stop a day at Aurora, thirty miles below Portland, and look at some of the finest orchards in the State, the property of a strange German community which has lived in harmrmy and acquired V. jalth at this point. Salem, too, the cap- ital of Oregon, lying ou the railroml fifty miles below Portland, is worth a visit, to sliow you how rich a valley the Willamette is. And as you go down by stage toward California you will enjoy a long day's drive through the Rogue River Valiey, a long, narrow, winding series of nooks, remote, among high mountains, looking for all the world as though in past ages a great river had swept through here, and left in its dry bed a fertile soil, and ppace enough for a great number of hap- py and comfortable homes. ^ May and June are the best months in which to see Oregoi; and Puget Sound. With San Francisco as a starting-point, one may go either to Portland or to Victoria direct. If you go first to Vic- „ ,^^^^^^ toria, you save a re- l^^^n^^^HMj turn journey across ' "f t-K»°.i>ai'i^^^H' Puget Sound, and from Olympia to Kalama, but you miss the sail up the Columbia from As- 51p«g^^\?'v; il<' -' toria to Portland. The following table of fares will show you the cost of trav- eling iu the region I have described : Time. Farf. From San FranclBco to Portland 8 days $30 00 From San Francisco to Victoria 8 " 30 00 From Portland to Celilo 1 Jay T 00 Excursion tickuts, good from Portland to Celilo and back 8 days 10 00 PromPorllaudbyOlj-rapiato Victoria 8 " 12 25 From Portland to San Francisco by railroad and stage 79 hours 42 00 Meals on these journeys are extra, and cost from half a dollar to seventy-five cents. They are generally good. All these rates are iu coin. On the steamer from San Fran- cisco to Portland or Victoria meals are in- cluded in the fare. When you are once in Portland a vast re- gion opens itself to you, if you are an ad- venturous tourist. You may take boat at Celilo, above the Dalles, and steam up to Wallula, where you take stage for Elkton, a station on the Pacific Railroad, in Utah; this journey shows you the heart of our con- tinent, and is said to abound in magnificent scenery. I have not wade it, but it is fre- quently done. If you have not courage for so long an overland trip, a journey up to the mouth of Snake River and back to Portland, which consumes but a week, will give you an intelligent idea of the vas^/ness of the country drained by the main body of the great Columbia River. The great plains and table-lands which lie east of the Cascades, and are drained by the Columbia, the Snake, and their afilncnts, will some day contain a vast poi)ulati()n. Already enterprising pioneers are pusliing into the remotest valleys of this region. As you sail up the Columbia, you will hear of wheat, barley, sheep, stock, wool, on^hards, and raj)idly growing settlements, where, to our E.istern belief, the beaver still builds his dams, un vexed even by the traps of the hunter. i< \le e iu n d. CO t, er to If ic- re- |08S nd to oil lie lAs- iid. ble low av-