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Lorsque le document est trop grand pour dtre reproduit en un seul cliche, il est film6 A partir de I'angle sup^rieur gauche, de gauche d droits, et de haut en bas, en prenant le nombre d'images nicessaire. Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la m^thode. rrata to pelure, n d n 32X 1 2 3 12 3 4 5 6 ^_^^^^^__^^__ ____^^^^_^^^ __^_^-_-_^^^^^ 5 ll i i r J rmKm'.aBrM''m'<^ H ^ I OFFICIAL REPORT -OF THE- EXPLORATION i -OF THE- mm f MMl M .>^>^>#«4^ I FOR THE GOVERNMENT OF BRITISH COLUMBIA -BY- NEWTON H. CHITTENDEN. PRINTED BY AUTHORITY OF THE GOVERNMENT AT I VICTORIA. 1884. I M5) -t^J OFFICIAL REPORT -OK THE EXPLORATION OF THr: FOR THE 1 '.?^«« -^> » » ^»r ^ GOVERNMENT OF BRITISH COLUMBIA BY NEWTON H.CHITTENDEN, PRINTED BY AUTHORITY OF THE GOVERNMENT AT VICTORIA, 1884. ' t % Chief Commissioner nf r j ne, of Laticis ami Worlds . of file Province of BriiisL r J , • Sir: ^""fffs/i Loiitmbia: Columbia. Gover>„„e,„ „f ^,^,.^^ ^"'"- Obedie,,/ Servant, ' "' ^'> Aov., 1884. IVoris, Co/mnbia: report of v^A", made ' British vide 11. h ..(^ \. s o > p r 2 s to 5s 9 i ■ 1.... r K ■:-'ii..N \^ \ \:..,;.i. |InM\.\ Oi'l MliVN 1 lSllKl;i Oil. \M) DuVlNti WollKS, N\\S KlVlli. II. I /••,.,,„ I'l,„l„ hy 11. Miii/ii'li'l. Chittbndkn and Paiity at Camp Maynard. Queen Charlotte Islands. From Phi>t(> hy li. Mnynaril, ^A MiMNc* St;KNE IN British C lumbia. A Keach on thk Upper Kootenav Ritkb. The Indian VrLLAOE or Oold Habbob, Qmnif Ohablotti Iblanob. From Photo by B. Maynard. •—^^^^"■(■■■■p OFFICIAL REPORT wttiiOF THE.r? >w . EXPLORATION OF l^HE .0^4^ ill* ^^ FOK THE _j§i Government of British Columbia iSL. BY N EW !( )N 1 1. ( HIT J EN I )EN. ij Geographical Position and Extent. The Queen Cliaiiotte IslandH, the extreme north-western lands of British Cohimbia, lie in the Paciiic Ocean, between fifty-one and fifty-live degrees of north latitude. They com- prise over 150 islands, and islets, their lon{»th being 156 miles, and greatest width fifty-two miles. Provost, Moresby Graham and North Islands, extending north-westerly in the order mentioned, twelve, seventy-two, sixty-seven and five miles respectively, constitute over eighty per cent, of their entire area. Pixon Entrance on the north, with an average THE EXPLORATION OF width of thirty-three miles, separates Graham Island from the Prince of Wales group of Alaska. Queen Charlotte Sound, from thirty to eighty miles in width, lies between them and the mainland of the Province. The nearest land is Stephen's island, thirty-five miles east of Rose Spit Point, the extreme north-eastern part of Graham Island, and also of the whole group. Cape St. James, their most southern point, is one liunared and fifty miles northwest of Gape Scott, th6 north- ernmost land of Vancouver Island. Discovery and Exploration. The Queen Charlotte Islands were first discovered by Juan Perez, a Spanish navigator, on the 18th of July, 1774, and named by him, Cabo De St. Margarita, and their highest mountains. Sierra de San Cristoval. La Perouse coasted along their shores in 1786, and first de- termined their entire separation from the mainland. In 1787, Captain Dixon sailed off and on their north-west shores, with his vessel, the Queen Charlotte, naming the group, also North Island, Cloak Bay, Parry Passage, Hippa Island, Bennell Sound, Cape St. James, and Ibbitson's Sound, now known as Houston Stewart Channel. The first white men known t to have landed upon the islands, were a portion of the crew of the Iphigenia, under command of Captain William Doug- lass, who remained about a week in Parry Passage in 1788, trading with the natives. The most extensive explorations made of any portion of the islands, by those early navi- gators, whose voyagos for purposes of discovery, trade and adventure, extended into these noiihern seas, were those of Captain Etienne Marchand in the French ship Sdide, who in 1791, examined the shores bordering on Parry Passage, and also about twenty miles of the west coast of Graham Island, from near Frederick Island southward. Since that date, although several parties of prospectors and others have visited various parts of the islands, no systematic effort has hitherto been made for the exploration of the entire group. Under the direction of the Dominion Government, the waters and shores of the north «'.nd east coast of the islands including those of Massett Inlet and Sound, Naden Harbor THE QDEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS. 8 aud Skidegate Inlet, have been partially examined, and mapped with considerabhi accuracy; but almost the entire west coast, BO far as the number, oxteut andi^haracterof its numer- ous indentatiims are conoorned, hais hitherto remained a term incognita. Judge James G. Swan, who, under the direction of the U. 8. Government, visited the islands in 188t3, and voyaged in a canoe from Massett to Skidegate, gave in a lecture before theProvincijd Legislature of British Columbia, the first public confirmation of the entrances to the inlets and harbors on the west coast of Graham Island, approximately, as re- ported by Captjiin Marc] i and. General Physical Features. High steep mountains, dense and almost unbroken forests, islands and islets in great number and water-ways most won- derful, extend for a thousand miles along this north-west coast' " Only mountains, forests and water," replied an In- dian, of whom I made incjuiries concerning this region. The Queen Charlotte Islands, in common with all those lying off the north-west coast of the? continent, are evidently the mountain tops of a submerged land, separated from it by a mighty volcanic upheaval followed by the sinking of the eju'th'rf surface, and the inflowing of the waters of the ocean, forming the most remarkable labyrinth of inlets, sounds, straits, channels and passages on the face of the globe. A continuous range of mountains from 600 to 5,000 feet in height, extends the entire length of tl*e islands nearest their western coast, rv^aching their maximum elevations on Moresby Island, between Darwin Sound, and the head of Cumshewa Inlet. These are clothed with an evergreen for- est of spruce, hemlock and cedar from near their summits down to the coast, with the exception of the comparatively small areas, as hereafter specified. The shores of the islands from Cumshewa Inlet southward to Cape St^ James, and from thence northward around the west and north coast to Mas- sett, are uniformly rock-bound, containing however, many stretch^^a of fine, sandy, or gravelly beaches. From Mas- sett to Dead Tree Point, Moresby Island, a distance by tlie -t i fl * THE EXPLORATION OP coast line of about Revonty-five miles, a magnificent broad beach of white sand, extends tlie greater. portion of the way. The shores of Naden Harbor and Skidegate Inlet and chan- nel are also gouerally low and sandy. With the exception of the north an of tho forest growth, its numerous swamps, and almost im[)assable dead- faUs. Forest Growth. The forest growth is very dense, and composed chiefly of spruce, hemlock, red and yellow cedar. I have measured several spruce trees, and also red cedars from thii-ty to thii'- ty-three feet in circumference, the finest spocimens having been found on Skidegate and Massett Inlets. With the ex- ception of those localities, I have seen no place upon the islands, where the available quantity of these woods is suffi- cient to warrant the erection of miUs for thoir mann^cture for exportation. There are fine specimens of yellow cedar of very scattering growth, and several bodies of considerable size on the borders of the interior lakes of Graham and Mor- esby Islands, as hereafter more specifically dc!Hcribed in Pro- gress Report No. 2. Its utilization is of doubtful practibility, on account of its distance from navigable water, and the ob- structions of the streams flowing therein. There is an. oc- casional alder bottom, hemlock is quite common, bull pine is found in a few localities, and yew, dog- wood and crab -apple occur upon all the islands. There is a dense undergrowth of salal, whortle, salmon, raspberry and other bushes, and shrubs. THE QUEBN GHABLOTTE ULANDB. Wild Animals. Black bear, land otior, marton, woaHol and mioe, aro ho far a8 known, tho only native aninialH upon tlio iHlaiulH. Dour and rabbit have boon placed upon Grulium iHland, by Alex- ander McKonzie E8(].,of MusHott, and tho latter by Uev. Mr. Robinson upon Bare Island in Hkidegate Inlet. The In- dians report having seen a species of Caribou, on the north- west part of Graham Island. Birds. The birds of the Queen Charlotte Islands are, eagles, ra- vens, crows, hawks, owls, black-birds, blue-jays, }iuniining birds, wrens, swallows and bats, of the same kind found in other parts of this region. Resources— Fish, Etc. The waters suiTOunding the Queen Charlotte Islands, abound with the most valuable varieties of fish found in this region. Hallibut are caught in unlimited quantities, upon banks near all the Indian villages ; small salmon of ex- cellent quality frequent nearly all the larger streams in the spiing, and a much larger, though inferior kind in the fall of the year. I have seen fine silver salmon at the mouth of the Ya-koun River, but it is doubtful whether they, or any other marketable salmon, frequent these waters in greot numbers. Immense schools of dog-fish feed on the shoals off the north and eastern shores of the islands, herring of good size and excellent quality visit Skidegato and other inlets in ^uch great quantities that their spawn forms an important asticle of diet with the natives, flat-fish, rock-cod, salmon 'and brook-trou^, clams and mussels are plentiful. Black Cod. Called by the Hydahs, Skil, and known on other parts of the coast as Pollock and Coal-fish, are caught off the west 10 THE EXPLORATION OF coast of the iglands. They have been prized hitherto for their oil, which the natives have extracted, by boiling them in wooden tanks, with heated stones. Samples obtained by Hon. James G. Swan in 1883, and by Messrs. McGregor and Combes during the present season, have been pronounced so excellent by competent judges, that the establishment of a fishery for their utilization, would seem to be practicable, providing that they can be taken in sufficient quantities. Messrs. McGregor and Combes caught 110 in three hours, about two miles from shore, opposite Gold Harbor, Moresby Island, fishing from a canoe manned by three Indians, with two kelp lines, 250 fathoms in length, with 60 native hooks upon each, baited with halibut. The fish dressed weigh on an average six pounds each, the largest being thirty-three inches in length. They are easily cured with salt and keep well. It is believed that a good steam schooner of about 100 tons register, provided with Columbia River boats of the largest size, manned by practical cod fishermen, will bo best adapted for catching these fish in marketable quantities. There are good harbors of easy access, within ten or fifteen miles off the fishing grounds, all along the west coast . Minerals— Gold, Etc. Gold was discovered at the head of Gold, or Mitchell Har- bor on the west coast of Moresby Island in 1852, by an In- dian, since known as Captain Gold, and about $5,000 taken out by the Hudson Bay Company, when the vein ( quartz ) pinched out. Parties of prospectors have examined tlie local- ity since, but have not found any further deposits. Colors of gold have been washed out from the sands on the east and north shores of Graham Island. Coal Numerous veins of coal have been previously discovered on Moresby and Graham Islands, the most important of which are the anthracite deposits situated on Skidegaie Inlet, and described under the nead of "The Cowgits Coal Mine" in THE QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS. 11 progress report No. 4. There are outcroppings of coal in several ether places on and near the shores of this inlet, viz: on its south side, nearly opposite the Cowgits seams, on AUiford Bav, and on the north side about half a mile from the Indian village of Skidegace. These coals are of a bituminous character, but the veins exposed are only a few inches in thickness. Beds of lignite formation lie on the north side of Graham Island between Tow Hill and Chown Point, on the Yakoun and Mamin rivers of Massett Inlet, on Lignite Brook and Nadeu Harbor and on the west coast near the sea otter hunters' camp of Tledoo. Coal has also been found at the head of Skaloo Inlet. The Indians have brought iii specimens of bituminous coal said to have been obtained upon a stream discharging into Cumshewa Inlet, and they also report having seen a seam near Ninstints. Messrs Knight, Williams and Allen, practical coal miners of Nanaimo, prospected the islands for coal during the past summer, but made no locations. Copper. Copper bearing rocks, and veins occur in several localities on the ea«t coast of Moresby tsland, and shafts have been sunk into them .^ t Copper Bay and opposite Copper Island and abandoned. The examination of these deposits is briefly mentioned in progress report No. 2. Productions, Cereals and Vegetables. Oats are the only cereal which has been successfully grown in the islands. Potatoes, turnips, cabbages, peas, and garden vegetables generally, with the exception of Indian corn tomatoes and melons are raised. Fruits. Crab-apples, red, blue and black whortleberries, Scotch, »■;-] i 12 THE EXPLORATION OP salal, salmon and strawberries are very abundant. Cran- berries were found on the north and east side of Graham Ishmd. A few black currants and goosebendes were also seen. Apple and pear trees grow well, but bear an inferior fmit which seldom ripens. Inhabitants— Physical Characteristics, These islands are inhabited by about 800 Hydah Indians, a very remarkable race of people. The most common type of the adult unmixed Hydah is about five feet, seven inches in height, thick-set, large-boned, with fairly regular broad fea- tures, coal-black hair and eyes, and a bronze complexion. They have generally — both men and women — finely devel- oped breasts and fore-arms, caused by their almost daily use of the canoe paddle from infancy. A few have well-formed legs, though the greater number are defective in this res- pect, resulting from much sitting, or rather squatting in their, canoes, in and around their lodges, with but comparatively little walking. Their feet are so short, broad and thick through the instep, that shoes are made by the manufacturer, expressly for them. Some of the young men W(^ar a mous- tache, and a scanty beard is occasionally seen upon, the face of the old men, though both generally eradicate such hair as it grows. Only the women and meoicine men permit the hair of the head to grow long. They walk with a springy light tread and agile step, thoiigli I easily outran a young Indian of Massett, who matched himself against me. Some of them are very strong in the arms, an Indian of Skidegate beating me at *' tug of war." Many are expert swimmers, sometimes diving from their canoes into the rough sea, and bringing out wounded seal which have sunk to the bottom. One of my men performed such a feat, springing from the top of a great rock, where the ocean was breaking. They are intelligent and quick to learn from observation. There are, probably, more well formed and featured people among the Hydas than any other aboriginal race, though there are none which can be considered handsome; indeed 1 have never seen an Indian beauty, nor an adult t'yjmmmmmmmt^fmmmmmmiMat^ THE QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS. 13 Indian woman of graceful movement. Black hair and eyes, white teeth and occasionally a rich olive complexion are their chief attractions. The Indian ages rapidly and are shorter lived than the whites. They suffer most from pulmonary and venereal diseases, the faces of many being scaiTed by the latter in its worst forms. Smali pox has also destroyed them by the hundreds. Dress— Ornaments. Etc. The Hydas have so far adopted the dress of the whites, that with the exception of blankets- still much worn by both sexes at their homes, and dancing suits — their original cos- tumes are now seldom seen. The blanket has been sub- stituted for the sea-otter cloak, trousers and dresses for the breech cloth, and leather undergarments by woven ones. The men wear hats, but the women very rarely ; a handker- chief or shawl being their most common head covering. Some of the elderly women, however, wear large hats of the Chinese pattern, braided by them from the roots of the spruce tree. The women are very fond of bright, striking col- ors ; though many exhibit considerable taste by the selec- tion of dcark shades, suited to their complexion. The men are quite as much inclined to over-dress as the women, when they have the means. On one of the hottopt days of sum- mer, I saw an Indian parading through the village of Skide- gate, dressed in a full suit of black, including a heavy 1)eaver Ulster. Both men and women generally go with barefeet, ex- cept when engaged in some occupation away from home, which exposes them to injury. Nearly all the adults are tattooed upon the arms and legs, many upon the breasts, and occasionally one upon the taco. The designs usually represent tribal and family crests and to- tem. The pr'^otice is being gradually discontinued. The face is generally painted for dances, by the women when mourning, and frequently by both sexes when travelling, to protect it from the eflfects of the sun and wind. Vermillion, the fangus of trees, burnt and ground, common charcoal, deer tallow, and spruce gum are used for this purpose . Labrets — 14 THE EXPLORATION OP W pieces of wood, bone or shell, from 1.^ to 2.^ inches in length — are worn by a few old females, but this hideous monstros- ity is now never found upon the young women. Many of the middle-aged, however, pierce the centre of the lower lip and insert a small silver tube, which projects about a quarter of an inch. Both sexes perforate the septum of the nose for rings, but I have only seen two worn by the Kydas, and these were silver. The medicine men, while performing their dances, sometimes insert a semi-circular bone from eight to ten inches in length.. They are very fond of ornaments, which are used in profusion, especially upon their dance and ceremonial dresses and robes, and by the females upon their persons. I saw a woman \t Skidegate with sixteen silver rings upon her hinds, and two or tliree heavy silver bracelets are quitch commcnly worn. Feathers, mother-of-pearl but- tons, ])uftin bills, abalone, dentalum and other sIibUs, silver pieces, and deer toes, are among their favorite articles of adornment. Manners and Customs. The Indian generally, is an ill-mannered brute, who steals into your presence without warning, handles whatever he sees without permission, smokes if you allow it, and seldom, especi- ally if a middle-aged or old woman, leaves you without begging a potlatch. He exhibits very little deferential respect for his su- periors, seldom expresses gratitude for favors, and more rarely does them without expecting compensation. At their homes, however, there is much to be commended in their conduct. There they are generally (juiet and pcacea))le, converse in low tones, and treat their children witli kindness. There is a noticeable difference in favor of the deportment of those Hydas of Massett and Skidegate who have come under the influence of missionary training. Domestic Relations. The Hydas generally enter the marriage state in eorlj youth, the females frequently between the ages of fourteen THE QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS. 16 ly •t. and sixteen. Matches are often arranged by the i)aronts bt;- fore the children are old enough to choose for thotiisc^lvos. In such cases, wluui of suitable ago, th(i young mm and wo- man begin to live together without other ceremcjny than a mutual agreement and understanding between them and their relatives, and the bestowal of [)resonts and dowry ui)on the bride. When the parties make their own selections, which is now oftenest done, and the young man falls in love, he tells his mother, who goes to the mother of his sweetheart, (ka-ta- dha,) and makes a declaration of her st)n's affection for and desire to marry the girl. If the proposal is favorably re- ceived, the parents and friends of the groom assemble at an appointed time at the house of the bride's parents, where, all sitting around the fire, the g(jod qualities of the young man arc j)raised l)y his friends to the father of the girl. She is present, also, and if satisfied after listening to all the gracious words in favor of her intended, she rises from her place, goes and sits down beside her lover, and taking his hand in hers the ceremony is complete. Among those Hydas who profess Christianity, marriage is solemnized by a ceremony, at which a missionary or Justice of the Peace ofl&cioces, the same as among the whites, and other unions are not regarded as binding. Polygamy was formerly much practised, especially by the chiefs, who took young women for their wives as often as they desired them, but none of the natives, so far as my obervation extended, now have more than one wife. Married women are generally well treated, and instead of being mere menial servants as frequently represented, they oftener carry the purse than the men, and have an equal voice in the man- agement of family affairs. Intleud, the only domestic un- pleasantness which I witnessed were cases of young wives vigorously asserting authority over the "old man." The marriage relation has, however, undergone a radical change since so many females, from their own earnings, not only bring most of the money into the household, but frequently support the men in idleness. Slavery. Slavery has existed among the Hydas, as with the other 16 THE EXPLORATION OF native races, from the earliest times. Until a comparatively recent period they were always at war with some of the coast tribes, and, being generally victorious, made many captives, whom they held in bondage, usually attached to the house- hold of the conquering chief, y ho became their absolute owner and master, even to ordering their sacrifice, which has occurred on many occasions. A slave, (elaidi), was formerly valued at from one hundred and fifty to two hundred blankets, but now, though there are still a number upon the island, they are no longer bought and sold, but enjoy unrestrained freedom. Many prefer to remain with or near their former masters and render service for food and protection — especi- ally men — rather than return to their native villages and en- dure the disgrace and taunts for having been overcome in battle. Several white men have been captured and held as slaves by the Hydas within the last thirty years. Potlatches. This custom of distributing property prevails more or less among all the northwestern tribes. The potlatch is usually preceded by a feast, also provided by the donor. They are never prompted by a spirit of unselfish generosity, but are given as a means of acquiring popularity and influence, for the compensation of labor performed, in satisfaction for in- juries done, and sometimes as a means of revenge. The greatest potlatches are given by the chiefs, either for the pur- pose of obtaining or retaining the chieftaincy. On such oc- casions the feasts are sometimes prolonged for days, and hundreds of blankets distributed. Whenevei* a great house or carved pole is erected, there is a feast and potlatch for all who assist in the work. They are also held on occasions of tattooing, when females arrive at mniurity, and as a part of the funeral ceremony. In most instances a record is kept of the property dispensed, and an equivalent, if not ah'eady received, is expected at some future potlatch. \ ■■v?f^''igsm>f!tmm:mm »i^. 't iamf THE QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS. 17 Dancing and Masquerading. The Hydas are fond of (lancinpj, and display groat ingenu- ity in devising many grotesque and fanciful costumes for wearing upon such occasions. Every boast, bird and fish almost of which they have any knowledge, is represented in some fonn —the heads of bear, seal and other animals are worn upon their heads, and also hideous masks, with moving eyes and lips The costly na-xln, or blanket, woven from the wool of the mountain goat, is thrown over the shoulder ; cu- riously carved rattles are hold in their hands, whistles imita- ting owls, wild geese, loons, eagles and other animals, are blown, drums are beaten; castanets — small hoops upon which numerous puflSn beaks are suspended — shaken, birds' down is scattered until it fills the air and covers the perform- ers, who, with a swinging, slouchy movement, dance for an hour at a time, rattling, whistling, singing and grunting. There are reception dances — Skaga and Hi-ate — house-build- ing dances — Skadul, the Kata-ka-gun dance when the house is completed, and the Skarut dance, preceding a distribution of property — and also on occasions of tattooing and death. The latter is performed by a single man, naked with the ex- ception of a breech-cloth, wearing a hideous mask on his head. He runs at large through the village, and simulating an inluriated wild beast, seizes dogs, tears them in pieces, and eats the raw flesh. Nearly all these dances have been abandoned at Massett and Skidegate, but most of them are still practiced in those villages not yet reached by the mis- sionaries. Totems and Crests. ^ There are five separate totems or crests among these people, established, apparently, to avoid too close blood relationships. These are Root, (eagle), Koqji, (wolf), Kit-si-naka, (crow)» and Sxa-nu-xa, (black bear and fin-whale uixited). The sev- eral tribes are supposed to have been originally about equally divided under these diflferent totems. Marriage between 18 THE EXPLORATION OP those of the same totem is forbidden, aud the system is per- petuated by the children adopting the totem or crest of the mother. Religion. The Hydas, with the exception of those who have euib raced the Christian faith, have no forms of religious worship, and I am informed by Rev. Mr. Harrison, missionary at Massett, and probably the best authority upon the subject, that there is no word in their language which signifies the praise or adora,tion of a Supreme Being, They believe in a Great Sj^irit, a fu- ture life, and in the transmigration of souls. Their God, (Sha-nung-et-lag-e-das), possesses chiefly the attributes of power, and is invoked to help them attain their desires. Their Devil, (Het-gwa-lan-a), corresponds with the devil of common belief, a demon who in various forms brings upon them evil and destruction. Morals. The inoral degradation of these people is so great that they seem to be nearly destitute of any sense of wrong-doing, while committing the grossest social sins imaginable. There is every leason to believe that before they came in contact with the whites, that they were much givento licentious prac- tices. Many of their legends and traditions {\re filled with vulgarities too great for translation. But with the opportu- nities afforded after the influx of whites into their country for obtaining money by the prostitution ol their females, this practice has prevailed until many of the present generation of young Indian women seem to regard this mode ot serving their kindred as their legitimate end. Almost incredible as it may appear, fathers and mothers become procurers for their own daughters, brothers for sisters, and, in some in- stances, husbands for their wives. Soon after my arrival at Skidogate, a Hyda^oung man called at my cabin to see if I would not take a rather comely Indian girl, about twenty years of age, who accompanied him, to live with me, and ■asiwpBPMiiili THE QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS. 19 neither seemed in the slipjhteat degree embarrassed, either in making the proposition or when it was declined. Immod- esty of speech or action in public places, however, is rare, oven among those women who change their man so often as it suits their caprice or convenience. Both the married and un- married have apparently not neglected their opportunities to improve upon the native stock by the introduction of foreign blood. There are Russian, English, Canadian, American, Chinese and Negro Hydas; Hydas with tiery red hair, tow heads, blue eyes, and all complexions from black to pale white. Manv of these homoleas half-breeds are farmed out with relatives, by their mothers, when single, thus leaving them free to go and come without incumbrance. Barrenness, disease and early death are the truits of such promiscuous in- tercourse, to such an extent that their utter extinction from these causes is inevitable, unless they are speedily removed. Their only hope of long surviving lies in the careful training of the young children by the missionaries. The habits and associations of the adults are too strong to be much affected by their labors. fng as for in- at ty Legends and Traditions. The mind of the Indian is full of weird strange fancies and imaginations. Groping in darkness, in almost total ignor- ance of the discoveries of science, with nothing to guide or correct him, it is no wonder that in his blind struggles to solve the great problenis which are more or less a mystery to us all — the origin of man and original creations — that he has wrought out the incongruous mixture of ignorance, supersti- tion and vulgar imaginaiion which mainly compose their legends and traditions. Some of them are doubtless based upon actual occurrences in the remote ages, which they have interwoven with their own fancies; others upon the exploits and experiences of their ancestors; though the greater number are pure fictions, fairy tales and hobgoblin stories, handed down from generation to generation. It would require a large volume to contain them all, and years to translate them with accuracy. I can therefore only give a few examples m ■.ti 20 THE EXPLORATION OF from those most frequently narrated, which I had from the lips of Edensaw, the oldest and ranking Chief of the Hydah nation, and Goo'd-nai-u-uns, wife of Goo-giil, well known as a gifted relator of their legends and traditions. Ne-kil-stlas is their great creative geni, who, by transforming himself into men, women, children, beasts, birds and fishes, or what- ever thing is best suited to accomplish his designs, performs the most miraculous deeds. Ne-kil-stlas is known also as Kill-sing-ne-keo-uns, Goya-ta-got-ya, Goy-kilt, Guoy-no, kill- gee-sklass. Hoy a, and by other names, according to the shape which he assumes. The Creation of Man. When the water which once Cv. ered the w^iole earth sub- sided, a raven (Ne-kil-stlas) was the only creature surviving. In his loneliness he started around the islands, seeking com- panionship, and when passing Sand Spit Point heard very faint cries, which he soon discovered proceeded from a cockle shell lying upon the beach. While examining it with great wonder, the voices grew louder and louder, until finally there issued therefrom several male * infant children, which rapid- ly increasing in stature joined him in a common search for mates. Upon reaching the lonely island of Ninstints they found females clinging helplessly to the rocks, whom rescu- ing and taking for their wives, peopled the land. Origin of Ligfit— The Sun, IVIoon and Stars. Ne-kil-stlas, soon discovering that light, fresh water, and many other things which the people most needed were in possession of a powerful chief called Setlin-ki-jash, and jeal- ously'guarded by him, resolved to obtain them . Now this chief's daughter had a little babe, which, when they all slept,. Ne-kil-stlas killed, and taking the place of the infant was fondly petted and cared for. When he found where the chief liu; * As related bjr others only one infant, and a female, was found in the cockle shell, whom, marying Ne-kil-stlaB, became the great father of the Indian race. THE QUEEN OHABLOTTE ISLANDS. 21 kept the moon, ho began to cry to see it, and continued so to do for a long time, and until they opened the door into the apartment where the moon was concealed, which seeing, No- kil-stlas instantly became a raven and seizing it with his bill flew away to the Naas country. Hero the Indians gatlmrod about him and begged to see the moon, of which they had heard. Ne-kil-stlas agreed to let tlu^n see it if they would give him all the oolachan fish which he desired, to which consenting, he threw down the moon before them, which they in their wild delight tossed so high in the air that it broke in pieces, and formed one part tlio sun, another the moon, and the small fragments the stars. ■•1^ Carvings. The Hydas are distinguished for their superior skill, above that possessed by any other aboriginal people on the conti- nent, in carving and mechanical arts and contrivances gen- erally. Jiesides their great columns, from 30 to 75 feet in height, covered with figures from top to bottom, nearly every article used by them is carved to represent either their totem crests, or some animal, bird or fish familiar to their sight. House-posts, canoe-heads, stone axes, mauls and mortars, fish-hooks and floats, seal-killing clubs, boxes of all kinds, cooking and eating utensils, trays, spoons, ladles, medicine charms, masks, rattles, whistles, gambling sticks, towes, and other articles, too numerous to mention, arc all carved. Their designs are often grotesque, many evidently purposely so, and their workmanship commonly rude compared with that of our best white carvers; yet their skill in so curiously and accurately shaping some things, considering their few and inferior tools and semi-savage state, is quite remarkable. Desiring to possess some small article of Hyda manufacture, I gave a young Indian jeweler a two-and-a-half dollar gold piece at 9 o'clock in the morning with instructions to make from it an eagle. Before 1 o'clock the same day he brought me the bird so well made that not many jewelers could im- prove upon it. \H I 22 THE EXPLORATION OP Food Supplies. Tho HydaH livo chiefly upon fish, tliotigli of Into yearn tliey consume also consi(lera])le (quantities of other Hui)i)Hes, es- pecially flour, rice, sugar, coffee, crackers, tfec, purchased from the traders. Of fish, halibut and salmon, dried and smoked, are mainly depended on, though n)any other varieties are eatcMi in their season— Inu'ring, flounder, trout, rock cod, true cod, clams, mussels, &c. Pollcxik, called by tho, Hydas skill, are caught ott' tin? west coast, principally for their oil, which is extracted b^ boiling them in large wooden tanks by means of heated stones. Dried herring spawn, salmon v- , sea and birds' eggs, chitons and octopus are favorit-- .tides of diet. Berri(^s and crabapples an; gathered ni large (juan- titios and (uiten both fresh and dried, frequently mixed with oolachan grease, tlusir choicest condiment, obtained from tha Nass Indians. Potat(Mis, generally of an inf«!rior size, are raised, chiefly by the old women. Many wild roots, bull)s and plants are also (\*iten: the lily, ep'dohiuiii., Iienwlciim, etc. Hear, wild g(M;se, duck, .J"f situated upon th(i immediate shore, the houses gcmer ;l]y standing in a row facing to the south or east, with from one to thr(v.> tall carved poles in front. Kah-oh and Ki-oos-ta, both in ruins, the former containing six houses and ten poles, and the latter fifteen houses and eighteen poles, are situated near each other on the south shore of Parry Passage, on Moresby Island. On the north mde of the Passage, on the south end of North Island, opposite Lucy Island, lies Tadense, with its six small houses- -still occupied by hunters and fishermen during the summer — and one lonely carved pole. On tho rocky, exposed THE QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS. 28 1. h Hlioro, just (Mist of KljiH-k Willi Point, Htivmls tlu* tliroo Iiouhoh ami one IiI(H) of partios of In- dians on routo to and from tlio wost coast. Its Imildors formerly ocoupicid opii- lation of about tliroo Imndrod and fifty Indians, 40 occupied houses, 50 carvod pok^s, and tho ruins of many ancient lodj;es. Tho Hiidso:. Bay Coini)any have had a Trading Post here since 1855, Mr. Aloxandcsr McKonzio having bo(m their agent for the last six years. Ho is the extroriK! north- western resi- dent white man on the soil of the Dominion of (Janada. Tho Episcopal Church of England established a mission at Mas- sett in 1877, now under the oxcollent chaigo of Rev. Chas. Harrison and wife. A.t Ka- Yung we found only the ruins of a few houses and carvod ])olos; also at tlio mouth of the Hiol- len, where there was formerly a considerable village. A still larger one is said to have stood at the base of Rose Spit Point, called by the Indians No-coon, and another between this point and Cape Ball, ()n tht; the oast coast of Graham Island, tho remains ot which may still be soon. We have now reached Skidogato, an imposing village, finely situatod, on the north shore of Skidogato Inlet, eight or ten miles from its eastern ontranct;. It contains 30 houses and 55 carved poles. A MetJiodist Mission, Church, and School building occupies a iiromiiiont site in the back-ground. Tho village of Gold Harbour is situatod upon Maud Island, three iuiles further up the inlet. Its people, now numbering 108, removed from Gold Harbour, on the wost coast, a few years ago. Here are 13 houses and 18 carved poles. Cumshewa, situated on the north shore of the inlet of that name, contains 60 people, 18 houses and 25 carved poles, and Skedance, on, -Jl 24 THE EXPLORATION OP the opposite, only 12 Indians, but 25 houses and 30 carved poles. Tanoo, or Laskeek, on Tanoo Island, is next reached. It is second in population to Masaott, coiitaining 150 natives, 20 houses and 25 carved poles. There is only one more Fyda village to the southward, Ninstints, with 30 inhabitants, 20 houses, 25 carved poles, and 20 burial columns, occu- pying a rock-bound islet lying off the south-west coast of Moresby Island, near the western entran{;o to Houston Stew- art Channel. There are five other villages on the west coast of the islands, all abandoned, and most of them in ruins. Tasso, on Tasso Harbour, Gold Harbour, between Gold Har- bour and Skidegate Channel, picturesque Chathl, on Canoe Passage, near its western entrance, Lenna-how, on Graham Island, opposite Nesto Island, Tiahn on Tiahn Cove, between Stowe Harbour and Frederick Island, and Susk, on Graham, opposite the latter. There are, besides these villages named, numerous houses and temporary lodges, from one to seven in a place, situated at the mouths ot the principal salmon streams, near potato gardens, and convenient to choice hunt- ing and fishing grounds. PROGRESS REPORT NUMBER ONE. Skidegate, Queen Charlotte Island;}, May, 1884. Hon. Wm. Sinithe, Gfiief Commissioner of Lands and Works of the Province of British Colnmlna: — Sin — I arrived at Mas- sett on the 18tli of April, and on the following day, pursuant to agreement, commenced the exploration of the Queen Char- lotte Islands, I was highly pleased with the first glimpses of Hyda land, its pleasant sloping shores and long stretches of splendid beaches being in marked contrast to the forbidding, rock -bound coast which had extended for hundreds of miles along our northward course . MASSETT INLET Is a magnificent body of water, about twenty-seven miles in length, from one to one-and-a-half miles in width, for eighteen miles, then widening to over eighteen miles, being sufilcit ntly \: - ' J^ THE QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS. 25 ' deep for vessels drawing twelve feet of water. There is fifteen feet of water on the bar at low tide, and safe anchor- age immediately inside, except during north-westers, when perfect protection could bo secured by running tlown the inlet. I desired first to make a recounoisance of the entire island, penetrate all its rivers, inlets and waterways, that I might thereb} be better able to determine which portion should re- ceive the greater share of my attention. For this purpose I proceeded to the mouth of the Ya-koun River, about twenty- six miles south of Massett, and from thence examined the shores systematically northward along the east side of Mas- sett Inlet to Massett, thence eastward following the north shore to Rose Spit,and from thence southward to Skidegate, penetrat- ing the rivers, inlets and inland as indicated by the red lines on the accompanying map. A brief description of tlie topogra- phy of this shore line and of its water courses and bordering counh-y will assist in locating the lands and other resources hereafter noticed. First in the order reached is a small stream, not down on the chart, flowing into a little bay about four miles north of the mouth of the Ya-koun River. From hav- ing found on its bank a cedar twenty-four feet in circumfer- ence, I named it Cedar Creek. It is not to exceed fifteen feet in width and filled with fallen trees its entire length. CANOE PASSAGE, Navigable for car.oes at high tide, is about eight miles in length, and from 150 to 200 feet in width. Passing through it at half tide with i.a average sized ca^.oe, we were com- pelled to wade and drag it over a mile. Flowing ' ito it trom the east is a little stream, unnamed, and not sbov/n on the chart, which, from having seen numerous grouse thereon and for convenience, I have called Grouse Creek. It is only about twenty-five feet wide and full of fallen trees. About a mile ab the northern entrance to Canoe Passage we reached a considerably larger stream, named Nedo Creek. It is about fifty feet wide at its mouth, but obs^tructed with log jams al- most down to the inlet. Next comes a small creek, called by my Indian guide Ka-la-pu-tant-la; then, Watoon Creek, which is about sixty feet in width, but full of dead fallen trees from near its mouth up. 26 THE EXPLORATION OP This brings us to the hirgost indentation on the east shore of Massett Inlet, about one mile and three-qnarters in depth inland, not named on the chart, but called by the Indians Del-kat-lay Inlet. It is situated about three and a half milos south of Mtissett. The eastern shores of Massett Inlet are uniformly low, sandy and forest-covered, though for several miles south from Watoon Creek, they are from fifteen to fifty feet in height, with small burnt openings on their summits. Following eastward along the north shore of the island, SKOONAN ItlVEll Is the first stream crossed. It is misnamed on the chart Chown Brooke. Chown is the name of the point lying just to the westward, which is more, prominent than shown on the chart. This river is about forty feet wide, but not navigable, owing to log obstructions. An inlet extends westward from near its mouth about two miles at high tide. .TOW HILL, A bold, rocky, perpendicular cliff, rising to the height of about 300 feet immediately on the sea shore, eight miles east- ward, is the most prominent landmark on the north part of the island. It is visible in fair weather twenty-five miles at sea and guides the navigator a[)proaching the harbors of the north coast. The Hi-ellen River, larger than any yet men- tioned, except the Ya-koun, flows into the sea just east of Tow Hill. This is also obstructed from within a half mile of its mouth up by log jams. ROSE SPIT, The extreme north-eastern land of the island, is more exten- sive than indicated by the chart. Mr. Maynard, the photo- grapher, who accompanied my Indian guide in a canoe around it, while I was engjiged in examining the country in- land, says that they were thrown with great force on to the spit by a heavy breaker more than three mUes off the extreme point of land of the penuisula, which split and would doubt- less have sunk the canoe, had we not taken the precaution to strengthen it with ribs before leaving Massett. Thii n(>rta shore of che island is general 'y low, Chown and Yaku u Foint } THE QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS. 27 « anJ Tow Hill being its only elevations exceeding fifteen or twenty feet. Between them are long stretches of very fine beaches, sandy, wide and gradually sloping. There are no harbors, though canoes and small boats take refuge in stormy weather at the mouths of the rivers already mentioned. A thick growth of spruce and cedar generally reaches down to the sea shore. About seven miles south of Rose Spit Point there is a lagoon three or four miles in length, which we have named Long Lagoon. The Hoy- kund-la River, not mentioned on the charts, about two rods in width, and choked with the usual obstructions, was passed, ten miles further south. Three brooks, from ton to fifteen feet in width, were crossed between it and TLELL RIVER. This stream, about thirty miles north of Skidegate, is the most important water-course on the island, (Vist of Massett Inlet. It is from seventv-five to IHO fe(;t in width, and nn vi- gable at high tide for about three miles. South of Tlell River there are several small brooks, but no rivers as far as Skidegate Inlet. There are no harliors on the east coast of Graham Island, find only canoes and small v(!ssels could find refuge in its Krrjiil bay indcaitations in stormy weather. Shoals extend n^n-ly its whole length, upon which many rocky reefs are vis- si f»c at low tide. Mr, McGregor, of the Skidegate Oil Co., J-' ;"7S tivit their small steatner struck a rock at least three and a ii.il miles off this coas*-. Mr. Maynard also reports that o ir canoe hit a rock over a mile from shore, when near the mouth of Tlell River. The general elevation of the eastern is much higher than that of the northern shore of the island, rising to bold sand bluffs from 50 to 250 feet in height for the greater portion of the distance between the Hoy-kund-la and Tlell Rivers. Having thus briefly outlined the most prominent physical features of the section ti'aversed, 1 will return to tlu^ point of departure on Massett Inlet, and notice its 28 THE EXPLORATION OF AGRICULTUllAL, GRAZING AND TIMBER LANDg. Of strictly aj^ricultural lands, the quantity found is quite limited. At the mouth of Cedar Creek there are about twenty acres of overflowed land which could easily be re- claimed by dyking. Along Canoe Passage there is a consid- erably larger tract of tide-land, probably 150 acres, which from two to three feet of levee would protect from overflow. Proceeding northward there is no open country until Dolcat- lay is reached, where there are about 900 acres of level land, about one-half of which is subject to overflow at high tides. This produces an abundant growth of meadow grass. It is situated about two miles southeast of the village of Massett. Passing over to the north coast there is a strip of grazing land from fifty to ten • '■ Ui width, narrowing as it is fol- lowed eastward, which e. ids from the village named, un- broken, for five or six miles along the immediate seashore. It produces a coarse sea blade bunch grass and affords con- siderable grazing. This tract comprises about 1,000 acr^s, most of which is of too uneven surface to admit of cultivation with the plow. On the inlet extending from Skoonan River westward, there are about seventy-five acres of tide-lands which could be re- claimed by a short, inexpensive dyke. Near Yakan Point, to the eastward, there are about twenty acres of level meadow land, with a small patch adjoining, where the Indians have raised potatoes. In the meadow I found cranberry vines, upon which last season's fruit was still hanging. About one mile south-west ol Tow Hill and half a mile from the sea shore, with timber intervening, there is a marsh containing about 200 acres, which could probably be drained and con- verted into good grass land. Here I also found cranberry vines in a flourishing condition and their fruit. Three or four miles back from the coast at this point, lies a tract of several hundred acres of swamp grass land, which by drainage, would afford considerable pasturage. A narrow strip of grazing land, from five to fifteen rods in width, extends for about three miles along the seashore, eastward from near the mouth of the Hi-ellen River. Five or six miles south-west of Rose Spit peninsula, I found a hay marsh of probably 150 acres. THE QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS. 29 I Rose Spit peninsula embraces from 1200 to 1500 acres of rolling grazing laud, portions of which are suited to agricul- ture. Immediately to the eastward of Long Lagoon there are about 200 acres of meadow land, a portion of which is quite low and wet. To the south and westward lies an irre- claimable swamp, covering from five to seven thousand acres, filled with dead trees, standing. South of the Hoya-kund-la River, and near the seashore, there is about 250 acres of grazing land, interspersed with groves of small spruce. From the mouth of Tlell River, south and westward, there is a considerable body of grazing land, estimated at two thousand acres. It produces, besides the usual coarse sand grasses, a nutritious wild pea vine. THE SOIL Is uniformly sandy and of too recent formation to be much enriched by decomposition. It varies but little in quality, there being no alluvial deposits, owing to the flat character of the eastern portion of the island. Tiiere is no sub-soil, ex- cept in a few localities, sand and gravel extending down to the rock layers. As far as I penetrated the interior, the roots of the fallen trees exposed only sand, sea-washed stones and shells. Clay was observed at one or two points, for a short distance between Hoya-kund-la and Tlell Rivers, also a forma- tion resembling peat. TIMBER LANDS. 'y.'i ■ A forest of spruce, hemlock, cedar and cypress covers prob- ably nine-tenths of the surface of the island. While in the aggregate, it embraces large quantities of merchantable tim- ber, a comparatively small portion is available for lumbering operations. This is due to the scattering growth of the best trees, and also to their location upon streams either too small to float logs or blockaded by fallen trees. I am speaking, of course, only of that section of the island so far examined. There are very fine specimens of sjiruce and cedar upon all the streams mentioned flowing into Massett inlet. Spruce is much the most common, and is found in bodies ot sufficient extent to warrant its manufacture into lumber on the shores 30 THE EXPLORATION OP of Canoe Passage, Grouse, Nodo and Watoon creeks. Some of the trees seen were from five to seven feet in diameter and of great height. The cedar was found chiefly on the banks of the streams and borders of marshes and swamps. In following up the rivers and creeks, especially those flowing into Massett Inlet, I almost invariably found Indian trails, evidently made for getting out canoe logs, and poles for carving their tribal and family emblems. These trails, upon which considerabh; labor had bepn expended at tlie crossing of ravines and marshy places, extended only a short distance, seldom exceeding two miles, branching off here and there to the base of great cedars from which they had selected a choice section, and rough- he wn before dragging out. The surface of the timber lands was generally covered from five to ten feet in depth with fallen trees, in all stages of de- cay, moss-grown, and half concealed by a thick growth of salal and salmonberry bashes. All of the streams which I followed up to their source, led into almost impassable swamps, through which progress at tlie rate of a mile an hour was difficult. Along the north and east shores of Graham Island, I saw but litth^, timber of sufficient size and in bodices large enough to warrant the erection of a saw mill. The smallness and obstruction of the streams and tlie absence of harlxn's, renders its })rofitable utilization difficult. There is but little of the yellow cedar or cypress growing in the forest now described. Scatterhig trees were seen at various points, especially along Massett Inl(5t, but no valuable tracts of it were found. It grows more upon the higher lands at the east(irn base of the mountains on the western portion of the island. Besides the forest trees mentioned, tlierc are occasional small bodies of alder, yew and crabapple trees seen, the latter bearing con- siderable fruit. Of plants, the strawberry grows everywhere upon the open lands, producing small fruit of fine quality in moderate abundance. IIALIliUT AND SAIiMON Abound in the waters traversed. I was sui prised to find the THE QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS. 31 IiidiaiiH c)itcliin<; tlio formor in Massott Inlet. Nodo and Watoon cRMfks, Skooiiaii, Hi-i'llon and Th^U UiviMS aro all Halinon streams, with tisliin<^ stations nt tlieir mouths. TUOUT Are also found in all these streams and in the other creeks and brooks mentioned. Shell lish, clams, round and lon^, though not abundant on that part of the; coast examined, may be obtained at sevL^ral p(jints thereon with but little difficulty. GAME Of some kinds abounds, es[)ecially {^eese, ducks and grouse. Black bear are numerous, their fresh tracks beinjj; frcqu(Uitly seen. There are no deer or rabbits, ex(;ei)t those which have been brought to the island by Mr. McK(Ui/ie and others, which are reported to be increasing. No wolves or bcnists of prey have ever been seen. There are no snakes, nor turtles, and very few frogs. Mosquitoes have not been troublesome, but are more numerous during the summer months. THE WATEll SUPPLY So abundant, owing to the swamps filled with decaying trees, through which it flows, is generally highly colored, and though perhaps not unwholesome, is not very palatable. There are, however, exceptional streams, especially at Skidegate, which, having their sour(res in the hills, are clear and pure. There is, of course, no difficulty in obtaining an abundant su])ply of rain water, which is much used for drinking purpcjses at Massett. It not being my ])ur[)ose to elaborate upon the vai'ious re- sources of the island in this hasty sk(;tch, but simply to indi- cate, as requested, the general rcjsults of my examination of that portion thus far ti a versed, the foregohig is respectfully submitted. Your obedient servant, ' Newton H. Chittenden. m 32 THE EXPLORATION OP PROGRESS REPORT NUMBER TWO. Skidegate, Queen Cliiirlott o Islands, June, 1884. Hon. Wm. Smithc, Chief Commissioner of Lands and Works of the Province of British Columtria: — Sm — On the 5th of May, having secured the services of two Hyda Indians, one a native of Ninstints, the extreme southern village of the Hyda nation, familiar with the shores of the southern portion of Moresby, and also of Provost Island, and the other of Gold Harbor, well acquainted with the northwestern coast of Moresby Island, I proceeded from Skidegate by canoe southward, cir- cumnavigating the islands above mentioned, and also crossing them from shore to shore at two different points, and pene- trating inland sufficiently far in several other places to deter- mine the general character of the section of country under examination. Our route was via Sand Spit Point, Copper Bay. the villages of Cumshewa and Skedance, Cumshewa Inlet, Louise Island, Selwyn Inlet, Talunkwan Island, Dana Inlet, Logan Inlet, Tanoo Island, the village of Tanoo or Laskeek, Richardson Inlet, Darwin Sound, De La Beclie Inlet, Hutton Inlet, Werner Bay, Huxley Island, Barnaby Island, Scudder Point, Granite Point, Skincuttle Inlet, De- luge Point, C<>Uison Bay, Carpenter Bay and Forsyth Point, all on the east side of Moresby Island; thence across Houston Stewart Channel, around Provost Island, entering Provost and Luxana Bays and Seal Cove, rounding Cape St. J^mes, and then along the west coast, northward, via the village of Ninstints, Henry and Robson Inlets, Grand View Inlet, Ta"soo and Gold Harbors, to the southern or Canoe Passage of Skidegate Channel, through which, touching at the aban- doned village of Cha-atl, we returned t(3 Skidegate, the round trip of about 325 miles having been made in twenty-three days. GENEKAL PHYSICAL FEATURES. Steep and often precipitous mountains, ranging in elevation from 800 to 4000 leet above the sea, rugged and rocky on their western slopes, densely covered with forests of spruce, hemlock and red cedar, extend from Skidegate to Cape St. THE QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS. 33 James, ami froii} Quoeii Cluii lotto Souiul to the ocean, over all the islands, so far as my observation extendetl, except the com])aratively small tracts as hereafter described. The small diameter of the islands south of Skidegate Channel leaves but little room at any [)oint for iku interior beyond the range of the human tjye, when standing upoii the summits of the highest mountains, after having traversed their shores. The latter are uniformly rock-bound, fret|uently bluff or pre- cipitous for from 25 to 1500 feet, with generally very limited border's of level country, the base of the steep mountains reachmg down to the sea, with but narrow foothill sloi)es. There are occasional short stretches of tine sandy beaches, especially on the bays and inlets. The streams flowing from the short water-sheds are small, but numerous, and without exception filled with fallen trees from near their mouth up. Their waters are generally rapid, clear and good. Trout are found in most of them, and a small, very excellent salmon is caught in considerable numbers in several of the largest. The rivers which I followed to their sources, rise in lakes and small swampy mountain basins. There are many good harbours for small boats, and several which afford perfect se- curity at all times for large vessels on the eastern shores of the islands traversed. Of these, Copper liay, Gray Bay, Las- keek Bay, Crescent Inlet, Sedgwick Bay, Werner Bay, Island Bay, George Bay, Collison Bay, Carpenter Bay, Provost Bay, Luxana Bay, and Seal Cove are the most important. On the west shore of the islands, though the harbor advantages are much more limited in number, they are believed to afford safe anchoring grounds for sloops and vessels of considerable size during the severest storms from any quarter. Henry and Robson Inlets, Tasso and Gold Harbors, from twenty-five to thirty miles apart, are the largest and best harbors on this coast, There is, I judge, sufficient water at their entrances to admit deep-draught vessels. Besides these waters, there are several indentations, greater than shown on the charts, and others not marked thereon, v/here small boats may find shelter. Among the latter. Grand View Inlet, so named from the magnificent scenery sur- rounding it, situated about eight miles south of Tasso Harbor, 34 THE EXPLORATION OF is one of tho socurost rotrouts for small boats I liavo cvor seon. When opposite the entrance, tiie rucky shore seemed to offer no landing place unless the storm should suddenly abate. Unexpectedly my Indian guides turned directly toward land, and ran through a narrow rock-bound passage into a little basin about fifty rods square, surrounded by mountaiuH rising very precipitously from 1500 to 2500 feet in hight, down which wore plunging ten cataracits, where the smallest canoe could lie in safety at all times. The west shore is much tho boldest, presenthig for considerable dis- tances, almost perpendicular-faced mountain walls from 1000 to 1500 feet in hight. THE AGRICULTURAL LANDS Embraced in these islands aggregate but a few huiuhed acres, principally lying in small tracts at the heads of bays and in- lets, mouths of streams, and on nmall benches at the base of the mountains. Most of the richest spots appear to have been cultivated at some time by the Indians for raising potatoes. The largest bodies of cleared arable land seen, contained not exceeding twenty acres. Theio are several thousand acres of lightly timbered spiiice and alder lands, bordering the bays, inlets and streams, which might be cleared and brought un- der profitable cultivation for dairying and the raising of root crops, should the dsvelopment of the other resources of the islands attract a sufficient population to create a home mar- ket for such products. The most available and desirable of the lands of this character noticed, are situated upon Skidegate Inlet, Cop[)er Bay, Alder Creek, four miles south. Gray Bay, along the cen- tral portions of the south shore of Cumshewa Inlet, Huttan Inlet, Henry and Robson Inlets, and on the narrows of Skidegate Channel. . GRAZING LANDS. The level grazing country is also of small extent, a tract of about 400 acres situated on Sand Spit Point, south of the entrance to Skidegnte Inlet, being much the largest found. It bears a scattering growth of coarse beach sand grass. \ THE QUEEN CHARLOTTE IHlJVNDH. 86 us 31' II- [n On tho sides of tlio mountains, howovcr, and in some places leaeliing up to their summit, anv .sovtu'ai thousand acres suited for stocik ran<^(5s, prcKlueing a thicker {growth of more nutritious grass, of the red-top variety. Of such pasture hinds wo found about 1,000 acres in cross- ing from Hutton IniV(»ral soa ottor swam within riflo range on the west ooast, and land ottor wo (riiaHcul upon shore and k'lled. Birds' o^gs, wliioii tlio natives ^atlun* in considerable quantt- ties, wo picked up by the dozens on several of the little isl- ands. Notwithstanding tlu^ disaffection which exists among the Indians upon tJK^ Nass, respecting their land rights, I have fimnd tlu? Hydas fri«Mjdly to my undertaking, inviting me in^o their iionsos to slec^p, both at Cumsliowa and Ninstints, aud pros(Miting my guides with halibut, eggs, etc. There are abundant evidences in abandoned villages, habi- tations and burial placets, of their formerly having been quite poi)ulous, ])robably ten tim(»s their present jmmbeu's. No country which I have ever visitod affords greater natural rosour(*<'s of food sup])ly from the soa and forest. ll(\spocttully, your obedient servant, Newton H. Chittenden. II PROGRESS REPORT NUMBER THREE. SkidKOATK, (^I'KKN ('UAKLOTTK IsLANnS. | OoTonFK, 1884. j Jfoti. IVm. Sinil/ic, (■(ynnin'sslovrr of Tiands nnd Works of the Prnvitirr of JirHifiJi (JoJfimhia: Sii{ : Ilsnino; (*(»in|>l('to(l tlic! examination of tlu> country [(ordorin^ on SkidotrMtc Inh't and (lliann(d, ond)racing the soutlioni portion ol' (ii'ahMni Islnnd, ;ind tlie nortli end of Moresby, 1 procoodcd to explore the west coaHt of (iraliiini IsIjuhI, Nortli Island, the north coast of (iraham island From (^iipo Knox oiistwnrd to Mass(»tt Inlet, also Vi- atro Soun('»', ihat por- tion luM'oin (loscrilu'd, (oniprisino; a slioro lino of ahont tivo inin(lront is sdniost lit- erally true so far as open lands are concerned, alono; the coast \v exco])tion of the monntam we ai"e now ( lose rioinsi, wi th th pastnrage as hereafter more speciiicidly mentioned. Mountains risino; very precipitously from, one to four thou- sand feet above the sea, uenorally thickly covered witli the prevailinase. Tlu? immediate C(>ast is unifonnly rock- bound, M'ith many sharp, jnocrcd points extendincr far out to sea, with out-lyino- reefs white with breakers in stormy weather. Most of the many INLETS, SOUNDS, BAVS, POINTS, ISLANOS, UrVKliS AND CltEEKS between Skidej^jate Channel and (^ape Knox, ••.:ivinir been hitherto uuKuown, except to a few of the nativ(!s, they will be briefly described in the order reached in advancinj^ iu)rthward. Indian luinies have been retained so far as known, but when these are of ditKcult pronuiu'iation, or unkiu>wn, Entrl' di names have been added; a star indicatinj^ such cases. First comes GOODEL liAV -About three and (Uie-half miles south of liuck Point, the extreme south-western laiul of Gra ^^i^P THE QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS. 39 hum Ishind. It is about two miles in deptli, v;itli a hoacli of the finest sand on t!ie island at its head. A. small island sur- rounded with kelp lying ahout one hundre(»n Point — -Abo.it four miles north-west of tlie entrance to the last nanu'd inlet -one of the most difficult for small boats to pass on the Y\^est ('oast, (except by a canoe passage in very calm weathcir.) we n(!\t enter CARTWUKUIT SOKNI) -This fiiu^ body of water, about two mih>s in width, extends fiv^e or six miles in an easterly direction, reaching to near the base of steep mountains from 15<)() to 2500 feet in height. Its shores are generally rocky, though there is a >siiuly beach at its head, where we found a good landing and camping place at tljr inoutli of Zuboff * river. This stream is fn»ni fifty to seveniy-five feet in width, and navio;able for canoes not exceedintj one hun: loir obstructions. Larjfe schools of dos salmon ge >g wtre riisliing in and out at the time of (Uir arrival, hundreds jumping their full lengtli out of the water. Though much iid'erior to mo^t other varieties of salmon, they are dried and smoked in large (juaiitities by the Indians *! 40 THE EXPLORATION OP An arm extends south -ward for about a mile from the south side of this Inlet, near its head to the base of high and very precipitous mountains, which from having four islets at its entrance, I have named Islet Inlet. There is also an island in the main inlet near the north shore about three miles from its entrance. Advancing and passing Kin-da-kooii and Hunter Points, the latter a high, bold promontory bring us to RENNELL SOUND, the largest indentation on the west coast of the island, extending about ten mihis from its n orth point entrance in a sontsi-easterly direction, and being from five to three miles in width. It contains five islands, Edward Island,* the largest, centrally situated, ulxmt a mile and a-half in length with a good beach, camping placewith a hut on its southern side, — and a group of four islands near its head; the largest of which I have called (^ypress Islaiul,* from having seen considerable yell<>w cedar growing thvjreon. There are five strejuns H(>wing into the sound, three in it south-easterly and two on its north-easterly side, from Hfteen to thirty feet in width, none of them navi- gable. The onW snow seen on (irahani Island in September, lay in a deep canyon on the northern slope of the high mountains which surround it head. There is an Indian hunters' lodge, chieHy maus hair seal were basking at the time of our visit. J*>oth shores at the entrance are bold and rocky. II THE QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS. 41 ttlo ^ ill (ep. cai' wo ill jtli. Itli- |t :i H'e ice SEAL INLET* — So called from haviiiAY, about tw(> miles in dej)th, with a fine stretch of sandy beach at its head. Tw(> or three miles beyond the lUixt point calles, except on its eastern si and-a-half mile> in depth, running a little north-east, with ri'gular shores, havintr a,n averam- bi'eadth of about tlii'ee-(inartei's of a mile. A small stream empties into it at its bead. Proceeding north-westerly past the old InAV, opening to the southward, at the northern entrance to Athlow Inlet, with a small island opposite. Passing the point last mentioned, we are soon in the Wii ters of KIO-KATII-LI INLET, which, with the exception of Rennell Sound, is the largest indentation on the west shore of Graham Island, being over five miles in length and three miles in width; containiuir five islands niid receiviiiir three streams, from fifty to one hundred feet in width, the largest being navigable for canoes about a half a mile from its mouth. Its south-eastern shores are very irreo;ular. Mount Itichard,* the highest elevation intlie north j)art of the island, lies to the eastward. Between Kio-Kathli Inlet and Fredciick Island, a dis- tance of about twelve miles, tln^re are four, ])ays from one to two miles in depth, with sandy beaches at their head, over whicli flow small streams — the first reached called by the Indians STOWE HARBOR, being the only one affording protection for large vessels against westerly storms. The old abandoned village of Tialni is situated facing the south, with a sandy beach fronting on the second indention north of Stowe Har- bor. . THE QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS. 43 of tree ircc rest its iiiit imK niis- to rviV [ho Ion 10(1 Tlic iinmodiate coast from Kio-kntli-li Inlet north-ward to Capo Knox, is less i)roeipitous than further south, but more dangerous to navigators by reason of its many out-lying reefs and rocks and the absence of harbors. CAVE BAY,^ ihe first south of Frederick Island, so - nfimed from a deeji cave in a high, rocky bluff near its nor- thern entrance, is the most extensive of those last mentioned, about two miles in de})th, with a fine sandy beach on the east side . Three streams fiow into the same, from fifteen to tw(!nty-five feet in width. There are threes rocky islets near its southern entrance, in- side of Point Patience,* which I have called the Sea Lion* Islets, those iiunnmul having been seen upon tliem by the na- tive sea-otter hunters. There is a good canoe landing in pleasant weather on the shore opposite, but in stormy wea- ther it breaks all around the bay. We barely escaped losing everything in effecting a landing at tli(^ most quiet place we could find. FREDERICK ISLAND, from a mile-and-a-half to a mile- and-throe-quarters in knigth, extending in a north-westerly direction, is situated about a mile north of Point Edward,* in- stead of south of it, as shown on the Admiralty Chart. It is thickly wooded, from fifty to three hundred feet in height, with rocky shores, except on its southern side, where wo found a sheltered cove,with a sandy beach acces- sible in stormy weather. The site of the deserted village of Susk is seen on the south side of a small l)ay to the south-east of Frederick Island. Therci are five bays between Frederick Island and Cape Knox — a dis- tance of cighteou or twenty miles — all of them exposed to westerly winds, excepting i-i small coves which afford safe canoci landings and harbors. Of these latter TLEDOO, a summer resort of the Massett sea-otter hunters, where there are three cabins, is one of the best and most fre(|uonted. There are four rocky islets lying from half a mile to a mile off shore bi^twoon Frederick Island and i\w cove, a distance of about four miles. There are two snuill streams within three miles south of Tledo(j, and one with- in a tpiarter of a mile north, the first of the former being M 44 THE EXPLORATION OF cnllcd "Boulder Crcok,"* tlio s(3con(l, " Islot,"* and tlio latter, " Otter Creek."* About two and a-lialf mile.s uortli east of Tledoo, around two rocky ])oints lies KLI-KA-KOON, a oani])in<:]; lAnco, on the south shore of a small bay, near the mouth of Hana-koot Creek. There is a sandy beacli at tlu^ head of this bay, and another small stream flowing in on its northern siih^. Around the next point and we enter S(H^-al-tzing or Ezra Bay, about two miles in d(!])th, having a sandy beach at its head and a small str(\'im flowing into it. There nro. five rocky islets lying off slu)ro, l)etw(H'n the northern entrance to this bay and Saka-kocm Point, at the southern entrance to LEPAS BAY, the most <^xtensiv(^ of tlu^ fiv(^ met . 'fhere a,r(s four bays from one to two miles in d<>pth on its ejistcsrn ii.nd north-(sast, with beiicluss ii,t iho'ir heads, wlii<0) we named in th(s onhsr reached in circumnavigating tlu; island from Tadensisejistward: — ( -larji,''" Hemy,* Edith and All)ert P>ays."" There is a small cnbin on the shore of Edith Bay, with a garih'ii patch adjoining. They are all ex- [)osed to easterly winds. CLOAK BAY, on its south-western sidt for small boats, after leaving BliUIN BAY, o[)enin}4 into the south-eastern entrance to Parry Passage. Here vessels sonu'times ancho)', though ex- posed to strong eddies. Hounding the next point we reach PILLAll BAY, so-named from an isolated column of con- glomeiat(5 rock, aljout a hundi'ed feet in height, standing near its eastern sidt;. It is three or four inihss in width, and a mihi and a-lialf in depth, but o[)en to north-east winds. Tins Jalun lliVKU, the largest stream between NU; for ciiiioos, about a milo tfoni its moutli, and also l;otwooii tlio small lakes nn^iitionod, by m«!ans of several portages — log-jambs, shoals and rapids. There are seven Indian h)dges at its mouth, this stream being a great resort for salmon. It is about twelvt! miles from the mouth of the Ain liiver to the e!jd of th(! north-western arm of the sound, which having no nann; on the cha't, I have called NEWTON INLET. It is about six miles in length, ami • two miles wide, with an ishmd at its ('utrance, kiu)\vn as Mut-oos, and seviual islets. I'hi roidv. we found two small streams, to the largest of which my attention was first at- tracted] by the noise of rapids at its mouth. This is called by the Indians, Ta-tzun-in. Ascending it by wading, with (!onsiderable difficulty, its bed was seen to be chieliy lime- stone rock. There are two rivers Howing into Newton Inlet from fifty to seventy-five feet in width, navigable for canoes at high tide about half a mile, when shoal rajnds are reached. Steep mountains from 1,500 to 3,000 feet in height, sepa- rate this inlet from the waters of the Pacific. Five or six miles to the south-eastward begins TI IN OWE INLET, which extends simth- westerly be- tweim four and five miles, having an average breadth of two miles. Two streams flow in at its head, up the largest of which we ascended about one-third of a mile at high tide, when a log jamb was found. There are three inlets between Tin-in-owe and the entrance to Tsoo-skatli Inlet, about ten miles to the south-eastward, and many islands and islets, the largest of which is called Wat-hoo-us Island. Into the first of these inlets flows the Awun River, rising in Awun Lake, about one hundred feet wide at its mcjutli, and which we were able to ascend with our canoe about one mile, when rapids were reached. Advancing several miles beyond on foot, the river was found choked with frequent log jambs. There is an Indian cabm and small garden plat cultivated for potatoes, at its mouth. Proceeding eastward, we next enter a small bay into which descends? over a precipitous ledge of rocks, a river, the outlet of a small . V THE QUEEN CHAULOTTE I8LANDH. 49 luko liiddoii from view by a narrow bolt of timber; thou fol- lows a doopor iiidoutation about a milo iii lougtli aud half a milo iu width to near its head, where uu islaud narrows it for a short distance to less than a hundred feet. Having seen here th0 acres of tide nuNidow lands, th(! largest trac^ts from five to twenty acrcss each, lying at the heads of Newton, Tin- in-owe and Tsoo-Skatli Inh!ts, and moutlis of tin; Mamin and Ya-koun llivers. The latter stream has an extisnsive delta of i'uhi land, fifty or sixty acres of which could be reclaimed by dyking. The bottom lands of tin; west coast, whit^h might be brought under cultivation by expensive; clearing, are limited to comparatively small tracts at the heads of inU^ts, their sides being generally })recipitous and rocky. Portions of the low lands along the north coast of the island, on Virago Sound and Massett Inlet, being c(jm[)aratively lightly tim- bered, might be reclaimed, for agricultural purposes. The GRAZING LANDS of the west coast, with the exception of small tracts of a few acres on the shore, lie on the sides and tops of the mountains, located in estimated (luantities, as follows: 300 acres on the north side of Ke-ow Inlet ; 500 acres near the head of Seal Inlet ; 200 acres on Skaloo Inlet ; 3000 acres on Athlow Inlet — principally (m its southern side — and a few hundred acres on the summits of the moun- tains to the northward. TIMBER LANDS. There is no merchantable timber on the west coast of Graham Island, excepting si)ruce, which is found in moderate cpiantities at the head of Renncjll and Cartwright Sounds, and the inlets to the southward. We ex- amined with considerable care those localities whero yellow cedar had been reported, crossing on foot from Athlow to Skaloo Inlet, finding small bodies of scrubby growth on the shores of each, also on Tattoo Inlet, but much the lar- est quantity on Cypress Island, Kio-kathli Inlet. The timber on tho north shore of Graham Island, includ- ing Vii'ago Soiuidj is generally light. From throe to eight THE QUEKN CHMILOTTE I8LAND8. 61 iiiiltts up tlu! Nii(l(in Uiviu-, liowovor, wo fouiul (MHmidorable bodirs of^ood spnic'i; uiul rod cudiir. [tH utilization would be attiiudod with }j;ro)it uxjumiso, owinj; to thn oxcoodiug roughness of tlie country and tiio loj^ jjuubs, hIiouIs and rapids of tiio rivor. Massott [nlot and Harbor oontains a much hirj^or ((uantity of availabhi spruce and nul cedar, the best tratitsof wliicli wtsre found on tlie (^ast side of the iidet opposite (hib Ishmd, alon;^ the l)anks of tlie Ain, Awun, Ma-min and Yakoun Uivt!rs, and on tlie inli^s pr»;viously described. The hirgest (piantity of yellow (iodar seen was on 8oos-u-uns Lake, which is believed to be too small to warrant the ex- penditure nticessary to obtain it. FISH. Hallibut, herrini;, salmon, sabnon trout, and do^ fish are caught in iuiliiuit(;d ([uantities in the waters described, also black c(xl or skill, all alonjjj the west coast of the islands. MINEUALS. — No minerals except coal are known to ex- ist in the country herein described, of which no veins hith- erto undiscovered have Ijeen found. FUK BEAllING ANIMALS, espticially boar, land otter ; nd Uiartin are very numeious. Since the abandonment of the west coast by the Indians for permanent residence, being but little trapped juid hunted, tlu^y have increased rapidly. We found largt^ nund>ers of old bear and martin traps along the streams and on the coast in the neighborhood of their old villages. Fur seal are killed in considerable numbers, and a few sea otter, from fifteen to twenty each season WATER FOWL. — Wild gtiese were very numerous in Massett Inlet, Naden Harbor, and the southern inlets of the west coast. Comparatively few ducks, however, wore seen. WATEll. — Nevirly all the streams from Athlow River, northward, and also those of North Island, Virago Sound and Massett Inlet to the head of its South-western arms are of a dark reddish color. THE CLIMATE of the west coast is exceedingly variable — stormy, squally weather prevailing during the greater portion of the year, the rainfall ranging from sixty to seventy inches. The Virago Sound and Massett Inlet country lying to the east 52 THE EXPLORATION OF of the mountains possesses a much more equable and desirable climate, the annual rainfall seldom exceeding forty-five inches, except at the heads of the inlets. Very Respectfully Your obedient servant, Newton H. Chittenden. PROGRESS REPORT NUMBER FOUR. I'.'ffi Skidegate, Queen Charlotte Islands, October, 1884. Hmi. Wm. Smit/ie, Chief Gommissloner of Lands tmil IVorks of the Province of Br'itish Columbia: — Slii — After returning to Skidegate from the exploration of the islands of the Queen Charlotte group lying to the southward, I devoted about one month to the examination of Skidegate Inlet, Skidegate Channel, the Canoe Passage from the latter to the west coast, and to the country bordering these waters, embracing the southern portion of Graham and the north end ot Moresby islands. For this purpose, I traversed their entire shores, and penetrated from three to eight miles inland at various pointc, following up the principal streams flowing into these waters, and visiting also the Cowgits coal mine, the Slate Chuck quarry, the Indian villages, fishing camps, and other places of interest . skidegate inlet, Considering its resourds of fish and timber, its coal deposits, the establishment thereon of the only manufacturing industry carried on by white men upon the islands, and two of the principal native vilUiges, it is at present the most important body of water embraced within the Quoon Charlotte Archipel- ago. The Inlet proper, from the entrance between Sand S|)it and Dead Tree Points, to its junction with the wators of Skid- egate Channel, leading through to the west coast, is twenty- five miles in depth, and from two or three hundred feet in the narrows to seven milc^ in width at the expansions of Bear Skir» and South Bays. Its shores are generally low and fie- THE QUEEN CHAULOTTE ISLANDS. 53' Lr quently sandy, and the back-lying country densely timbered and sloping gradually, except on its north-western side, where the mountains rise quite precipitous from 1,500 to over 4,000 feet above the sea. More than twenty small rivers and creeks flow into the inlet, several of which abound with a small but excellent variety of salmon. Of these streams, Kliok-a-doon, (Slate Cliuck), between Bear Skin Bay and An- chor Cove on the north, and Dena, emptying into South Bay, and Uiose discharging into Long Arm are the largest and m(YAt important. There are from one to four Indian houses at the mouths of the salmon streams, for their temporary lodgment dui'ing the fishing season. Over thirty islands and islets are embraced within the waters of the inlet. Maud Island, the home of the Gold Harbour tribe, is the largest, being between three and four miles in length, and from one to two miles in width. It is centrally situated, thickjy wooded, except where destroyed by fire on its southern side, with an average eL> iion of about three Imvidred feet. Lina and South Islands, the next in size in the order mentioned, are from one and a half to two miles in length. There is only a canoe passage between the forni'u- and Graham Island. Leading Island, lying be- tween Maud and Moresby, is the landmark by which naviga- tors are guided safely over the bar in clear weather. Bare Island, owned by the Skidegate Oil Company, not so des- titute of vegetation as its name suggests, is of interest as having been once a fortified stronghold of the Skidegate tribe, now living on the north shore, opposite, and as now contain- ing a flourishing colony of ral)bita. AGRICULTURAL AND GRAZING LANDS. There are upwards of two hundred acres of tide meadows at the mouths of the streams mentioned, the largest and best tract, containing from twenty to thirty-five acres, lying along the Dena, on Moresby Island. There are also several hun- dred acres of alder bottoms, with a comparatively light growth of spruce interspersed, available for cultivation. The density of the timber prevents the growth of nutritious grasses, ex- Gxcept in very limited quantities upon the immediate shorts. :54 'iTR't EXFLOilATldN df TIMBER. There is a considerable quantity of accessible spruce and red cedar of merchantable size growing near the shores of the inlet, and much larger bodies on the banks of the streams, and in the valleys a few miles back. It would be expensive to obtain the latter by reason of log obstructions, except where the fall is sufficient for the construction of chutes. On Slate Chuck I saw spruce trees over thirty feet in circumference, and r^d cedars nearly as large. Occasional groves of alder ustnl ex- clusively for fuel by the Skidegate Oil Company, are found on the shores. COAL. Several out-croppings of coal have been liitherto discov- ered on the inlet, including the only anthratutt^, so far as known, on the Pacific Coast. The vein is situated on the east side of Seymour Mountain, al)out a mile and a half from the shore at Anchor Cove. Upwards of a hundnid thousand dollars were expended in its (h^velopmont by the Queen Charlotte Coal Mining Company, chieHy in the con- struction of a railway and other shipping facilities. Several tunnels were bored, the h)ngest to a depth of 450 feet, reach- ing a vein of good anthracite coal from three to six feet in thickness, from which a vessel load was sold in Sail Fi'ancisco at a good price. But the vein soon b(^coming faulty, and the owners dissatisfied with the outcome from their investment, the mine was abandonrnl in 1872, and before the explorations made were sufficiently thorough to determine with much cer- tainty the character and extent of the deposit. THE SKIDEGATE OIL COMPANY'S ^.'"orks, buildings and wharf are situated on Sterling Bay, between Image and McGregor Points, ten miles from the en- trance to the Inlet. They manufacture from 135,000 to 40,000 gallons of refined oil annually, representing ovcu" 500,000 dog- fish, giving employment to hundreds of the natives during the summer months. This important industry is capable of in- definite expansion, and great credit is due to the enterprise and energy of Messrs. Sterling & Co, for its establishment and successful management. THE QUEEK CHARLOTTE ISLANDS. 55 eii- LOOO (log- the ill- rise lent THE SLATE CHUCK QUARRY, From wliicli the natives of the islands obtain the material for th(ni' stone carvings, is situated on the oast side of the monntain of tliat name, on the west hank of Klickadoo River, al)out three niiU^s and one-half from its month. The deposit is evidently an ext(>.nsive one, the exposures covering several acres. No united effort has boen maih^ to (h^voUip it, the In- dians quarrving it indi.idually and carrying it out on their l)acks —over a rough trail — as required. SKIDEGATE CHANNEL, From tlire(^ miles in width at its west coast entrance to two and thre(^ huiuhuMl fecit where it meets the waters of Skide- gate. Inlet, flowing in from the east, is of sufficient depth on th(i rapids to admit of the passage at Hood tide of vessels di'awing seven or (Ught f(!ot of wat(n'. Canoes pass through at all stages of water, but (mcounter very strong currents in th(^ narrows, near the divide — not less than five miles an hour — when the tides are running out. Its shores are compara- tively low, not infreqcnitly sandj', except for several miles from tlu^ cnitrance, wluM'ti tli(3 mountains are higher and more rocky and precipitcms. The bordering country is clothed with a dense forest of spruce, hemlock and cedar. SWAN INLET, The entrance to which was first shown on Judge Sv/an's map of his rec()nnoisanc(> along tlu^sci shores in 1883, opens into the chaniKil three and a lialf miles from the west coast en- trance. It is between three and four miles in length, with two arms, on(^ tli(> longc^st, extending in a north-westerly di- rection, and the other in a nortluirly, uniting about a mile and a ((uarti^r from the channel. High, steep mountains, thickly timbiu'ed —exc(^]it oi. tlu; west side, where there are two or tlirt^e liundr(Ml acres of grassy openings — surround it. Three streams of cl<\'ir water flow in at the heads of the arms mentioned, and a small island li from tin? entrance — a rendezvous for the native seal-hunters and fishermen. I, I 56 THE EXPLORATION OP CANOE PASSAGE, Leading from JiJkidogate Channel to the Pacific ocean, be- tween Moresby and Cha-thl ishmds, is eight miles in length, and from two to WiroAi liundred feet to two miles in width. Passing through it at half-tide our canoe grounded in several places. It was formerly much traversed by the natives in- habiting the ui^jandoned village of Cha-thl, on its nortli shore, near the west coast entrance, and also by the Gold Harbour peophi before their removal to Maud Island. Tliere are sev- eral hundred acres of grazing lands on the sides and tops of the mountains lying to the soutliward. V(^iy )"es])m Imnted, that they would sit upon the hranches of the trees almost within reach. They were ex- cellent eating, (juite fat and tender. Rr of $in. for a car.oe, thirty feet hmg, was accepted, which was a larger pri(^e than they had at first asked, Aftcn- strengthening it by putting in cedar ribs, I ri^sunKul my travels, a(^coiii])aiiied by Mr. May nard, the well known, enterjirising and ]>luckv artist of Vic- toria, and Thomas, who, besid(^s being so exc:ellent in the management of the canoe, knew the coast very thoroughly as far sy the introduction of the most aj)proved retorts, have sii<'ce(;ded in extracting an article so ])ure and clear that it meets with a ready sale at a good price, and is regarded as one or the best oils in use, (is- ])ecially for all lubricating purposes. The compa,ny manu- facture about 40,000 gallons annually, giving employment to the Indians from all parts of the island (hiring the summoi- months. They are now assembling at Skidegate, which they make their headquarters during the dog fishing season. The shore is covered with canvas, Indian men, women and chil- dren, dried halibut, herring siiawn, fishing tackle, bedding and camp equippage, presenting a scene of great interest. Remaining here over night several voices were heard sing- ing familiar hynms in a house close at hand. Going to the entrance I found a prayer meeting in piogreiss, and, being invited in, remained to its close. Knowing that they had re- ceived only very limited missionary instruction, and none whatever for several months, I Was considerably surprised that of their own motion, and without any white leader, they shouhl hold such a well-conducted religious servtce. The songs were well rendered in English, the })raying and si)eak- ing being in their native language. I refitted at Skidegate, hiring a stronger canoe and two Hydali Indians, known as Sam and Tom, who, together, were well acquainted with the principal waters to be traversed. Proceeding southward, steep and often ])recipitous moun- tains, ranging in elevation from 800 to 4,000 feet above the sea, rugged and rocky on theii' western slopes, densely cov- THE QUEEN CHAUU)TTE ISLANDS. 63 ^K iS- ley 3d. Ill- he V- erod with forests of spruce, heml(K;k jind (Huhii, extiMided from Skith'^utr to Capt) St. JiiiiKiS, and fioin (^iiceii Cliarlotte Sound to the Pacitic Oireuii, over all the islands, so far as my ol)servations exbnid, ex(!ept a f«'\v thousand acres of graz- in;^' lands. Small tracts of arable meailows and gardcai patches ar(! cultivated h.V the natives. Tin; Jiarrowiu'ss of the island south of Skidcgate l^NlV^^s hut little room for an in- terior, heyond the ran<^(M»f the (ije, when stamhng upon the snnimits of the hij^hest mountains, afttjr having travers«'d tiicii' shores. The latter are nniforinly lock IxMind, trecpuintly hlutl'y or pre(Mj)il^.Ms, from 20 to 1,500 feel in height, with geiu'iallv vi!rv limited hord.rs of level countrv, tlui hase of th(! st(H^]) mountains n^aching ih>wn to the sea, with Imt nar- row footliill sloj)es. Tins streams flowing from the short wa- tersheds are small hut nunuu-ous, and without exception, tilhul with fallen tre(?s from their source to their moutli. Their waters are generally rapid, clear and good. Trcmt Jire plen- tiful in most of tlnni, and a small, very excelh^nt salmon is caught in considerable numhers in sev(>ral of the largest. Wt! fimnd Chief Skidegate and s(iveral of his people securing their spring sup])ly hy mtNins of traps, from a creek flowing into Copper Bay, and Chi(^f Sluulance en, roidc for the same ])ur|)ose to a small stream em[)tying into Cumsliewa Inlet from Louise Island. The rivers, which I followed to their source, rise in lakes and small swampy mountain basins. There are several har- bors, where large vessels may find pcu-fect shelter during the severest storms. Although the timber area is so great, there are but few localities where saw mills could Ix; profitably operated. The forest embraces no Douglass fir, but little available yellow ciidar or cypress, and only comparatively small bodies of merchantable si)ruce, which are accessible without the construction of «.'xpensive roads. Between Skid- egate and Cape St. James there are more than thirty islands and islets, and bays, inlets, harbors, sounds and channels in great numbers. Day after day and week after week we pad- dled, rowjd and sailed along these wondefiil shores, visiting the Indian villages of Cumsliewa, Skedance, Laskeek, or Ta- noo, and Ninstints, all occupied, and several others now I 64 THE EXPLOllATION OF I ubaiKloiiinl. W») also tuosHcul Morosby Islaml from tlio «»ist to tlio west coaHt at two difforoiit .i)<)iutH, where tlio Indians assured me that tlierc were trails over which canoes had Bometimes been carried. We found no signs of a trail, ex- cept for a short distance, but, on the contrary, a country so dirticult to traverse, on account of swamps and faUen timber, that the transj)ortati()n of canoes through it would be a most hd)orious undertaking. All of the villages named are beautifully situated, facing the south from cozy sheltered nooks, with s[)lendid beaches, and abundant i "applies of food conveniently near. Besides the halibut bank marked on the chut, there is one near all of the villages mentioned, and inexhaustible quantities of clams and mussels along the neighboring shores. This is certainly one of the most favored regions in the world for the abode of the Indian. From the number and size of their houses now occupied, and ruhis, from fifty to seventy in each village, their burial Ghans and houses filled with the dead, these islands must have contained at least ten times their present population. Smallpox and the corruption of their women have been the principal causes of their destruction. The Hyda women, being good looking compared with those of the other coast tribes, have for twenty years been the special prey of the coarse libertines ol a large floating popu- lation, until virtue is almost unknown among them. Nothing can save the race from speedy extinction excei)t the most careful Christian training of their few healthy children. There are no missionaries in any of these villages, nor have they been visited by white men, except at long intervals , They treated me, however, with great kindness, inviting me to sleo]> in their houses, both at Laskeek and Ninstints, and presenting my guides with dried and fresh halibut, dried sea weed, fish spawn, and the eggs oi si^a fowl. Many of the nativ^es, especially the women, were [)ainted; a few of the oldest wore rings on their ankles, aud all had their noses pierced for them. My guides painted at Nin- stints both black and red, and urged mo to do so, saying that it would not only improve my appearance, but prevent the skin from bUstering. The preservation of their complexion I THE QUEEN CHARIXXl'TE I8IAND8, 65 a id find to bo the principal roason for painting by tlio women. Tiioy arn tho fairost on tlit) Coast, and ovidentl^ conacsious of it. One young woman, oxct'ptionally good looking, ran to a brook upon our approach, and (piickly washed off tho un- sightly pitch, deor tallow and charcoal, that she might appear in all het" native charms. Until we rounded Cape St. James, the extreme southern portion of the islands, we encountered but little disagreeably rough sea. 0[)posite Barnaby Island, however, wo wore struck by a heavy squall, which swept our canoe over the sur- face of the wate.i for more than 200 feet, and to withhi about twenty feet of a precipitous rocky shore, upon wl.ich the waves were dashing furiously, before we could rec(jver the use of the oars. But, from the cape northwest, it was a continu- ous battle amidst storms from all (juarters, encountering strong adverse winds and much of what the Indians called hyas solU'ks chuck (very rough sea). I could then understand why, before leaving, they had incpiired so carefully of Mr. McGregor, who recommended them, if I had a skooknm tamtum (a stout heart), and of me personally whether I was subject to sea sickness. We were four days rounding one point, making three unsuc- cessful attempts, the Indians turning bfick, but not until our canoe had been nearly swamped by heavy breakers. The skill of the natives in handling the canoe is something won- derful. When once at sea, I left its entire management to their judgment. On one occasion, when oflf a rocky point, we were struck by a heavy sea with alarming force. To ad- vance was seen to be impossible, and to turnback was almost equally [)erilous. It was no time for indecision, for another great breaker was rolling toward us. With a single signal word from the helmsman, with perfect coolness, a few power- ful strokes at jnst the right time reversed our little bark, and we were soon in safe water again. For considerable distances on the west coast rocky precipit- ous mountains face the sea, in places not less than 1,500 feet in height, almost perpendicular, rising over 4,000 feet within a few miles back. When running the guantlet of the storms along these forbidding shores we looked into the mouths of several dark caverns of unknown depth. Twice Indian Tom 66 THE EXPLORATION OP '.v. llV raised his i)aildlo, placed four small wads of tol)acco thereon, and, with a su\>plicaiing motion of his right hand toward these caverns, made an offering to the spirits which are supposed to inhabit them, praying that we might have a safe voyage. Here we found what I believe to be the grand est scenery of the Queen Cliarlotte Islands. We had been pulling for six hours agahist head winds, S((iialls and rough seas along this rocky, high walled shore, which seemed to offer no place where a landing would be possible, when suddenly the canoe turned toward bind, ran through a narrow rock bound passage into a little basin about fifty rods square, surrounded by mountains rising precipitously from 1500 to 2500 feet, down which ten cataracts were plunging. Grand View Inlet, or whatever it may be called is situated about eight miles south of Tasso Harbor. At; we were leaving it two land otters were seen owimming near the shore. G.ving chase, one of them ran out upon the land, where, after an exciting hunt with dogs, it was killed. One evening, as we were cam^jing in a rooky cove, IndiaM Sam suddenly seized his gun, ran down to the shore, and mounted a great rock wher(5 seal had been seen. Pres- ently he fired, and then stripping off his shirt, dove headlong into the sea. He soon rose tc the si^ri'ace grasping a great seal, with which he swam to the shore. Although they Jiad eaten a hearty supper, they sat up until midnight g(jrging themselves with its excessively fat meat. They had one con- tinual feast from the beginning to the end of the expedition, devouring, besides the sui)plies taken with us, seal, wild geese, duck, octopus, clams, halibut, musselj, sea eggs, biid's eggs, fish spawn, salmon, etc., ii; great quantities. On the thirty-third day after leaving Massett, I returned to Skido- gate through the Can(JO Passage and Skitlegate Channel, where I agaii; refitted for the west coast of Graham Island and the Virago Sound country, next to be traversed. Newton H. Chittenden. THE QUEEN CHARLOTrE ISLANDS. w pn- CORRESPONDENCE. NO. III. A forced (k'teiition at Skidejrute for the recovery of h diri- ahied liand, afforded an uiie.\])ected ((pportunity of becoming acquainted witli Indian life in tlieir viilatre lodjres and tisli- ing cainyjh, wliicli I will more fully describe in another let- ter. The 'Vaters of Skidegate Inlet, during the months of fltme • ,id 'luly, were alive with canoe-loads of men, women and children, [>lyiug between the dog-tishing groumls, their villagCKS and the works of the Skid* y;ate Oil Company. The latter are situated on Sterling Bay, a beautiful little harbor on the iMM'th shore of the Iidet, about three miles from Skid- egate. Here, as pi'eviously stated, were assembled at times a numerous fleet of canoes and hundreds of natives from all parts of the island, with their klootchmen, papooses and dogs. The latter gave us a series of concerts which will never be forgotten. Their number may be inferred from my having seen eleven dogs (lisend)ark fn^m a medium-sized canoe, fol- lowing one Indian, who alone arrived with it. The leaders of this renuirkable band were ten dogs which belonged to a family of Uydah aristocnicy, whose habitation was on the shore of a cosy cove about one mile distant, hidden from view by a rocky, wooded point. Three or four times during the twenty-four houi > they rounded the point, sat down on the shore, raised their noses heaven-ward at an angle of about forty-five degiaes, when, with half-closed eyes, and the ex- pression of a spirit medium when about to deliver an inspir- atioiuil lecture, they abandoned themselves t-o paroxysms of howling and yelping. To their first outburst, cai'ie a pr(>mj)t and deafening res- ponse from eveiy dog in the encampment, which continued with increasing vigor, until their united chorus quite baiiles roaf's present residence, a plain comfortal)le frame house ill the centre of the villsig^;. Two large splendid canoes were carefully housed in front. A small '•r'-hard in which a few lialf-grown apples were seen, next engaged the attention. The chiefs wife carried tlie keys to the house and to the piles of trunks and boxes it ci/htained. Tlieir furni- ture em])ra(;ed good modern beds, i.ioles, dressing cases, mirrors, cliairs, stove, lamps and other articles too numerous to mention. They opened trunk after trunk and box after box and showed me a very interesting collection of Indian wear; four masquerade head dresses reaching down to the waist covered with ermine skins valued at $iH) each; several complete dancing suits including a beautiful one made by the princess; Indian blanketSj woven b^ hand from the wooi THE QUEEN CHATiLOTTE ISLANDS. 69 n II c IB of the mountain sheop, musks, rattles, etc., and also a good supply of common blankets an^i other stores which they exhibited with evident pride. We next ransacked their old house, a large one, still in good repair, which stood n few rods distant. FVnirteon copper towes of various sizes, formerly valued at from fifty to five hundred dollars each, leaned aiiainst the broad front. Thr carved pole is so tall that, when erected, Nin-Ging- Wash received his nrcsent name, which siufuities "the longr ttick." pr n Tlie house was tilled with articles of Indian manul'acturc, curiously carved cooking and eating utensils, fishing in^ple- ments, boxes, mats, etc. The chief's property, real and per sonal, is worth several thousand dollars. It is reported thar the took his young; wife to Victoria, and refurnished his istab'lishment fr estaDiisiimenr iroin her earnings. She apparently has her own way in everything now, the old chief being (piite satisfied to i£et his rations of muckamuck and tobacco without tn»ui'ling himself as to how it is provided. CHIEF SKIDEGATE Was found, with about twenty of his people, catching and drying silmon at the mouth of a small stream flowing into ('0])per iiay, fifteen miles south of the village, lie is a cousin of Ning-(fing-VV isli. younger in appearance, though nearly as old. They (puirrelled bitterly over their rank for a longtime, Nin-(ring-Wash, by means of his more liberal pot- latches finally prevailing, but not until two of their adher- ants had been killed. Skidegate handed me a package of piipers, chieily letters of recommendation from ship masters, missioiuiries and others. It was evident that he was ignor- ant of their contents. One said the chief had been "bumintr" aroun Duncati for nrotection. pe pr, r 70 THE EXPLORATION OF Tlie letter warned the chief never to be gnilty of snch an act again, asfinring liini tiiat if the Indian liad injured liim, he should be proceded against according to law. But Skidegate has now kept out of ditKculty for several years, and like a good many white people, who sin as long as they are able to, before they reform, he has joined tlie church, and is trying to be a good Indian before he dies. -' DOCrroit MODEETH. My visit to the cheif medicine man south of Massett was ac- cidental. While making a trip of several days alone with my ca!ioe, I sought shelter from a severe storm on a little islet in Skidegate Inlet, where 1 passed a sleepless night in the rain ' id wind. It was only a short distance to the t.idian village of Gold Harbor, where, tiie following day, I landed and spread out my blaidvets to dry on the beach. Among the Indians squatting in front of their houses, T noticed one whose hair was tied up in a knot on the back of his head, the size of a large hornets' nest, of which it reminded me. Ap- proaching nearer, his face was seen to be marked with small pox, a piece was missing fn)m his nose, and altogether he presented a more remarkable than attractive appearance. I found him, however, quite talkative, snid soon engaged him in conversation to the extent which my limited knowledge of the Chinook would permit. He told me that he was a medicine Tyhee, and inviting me into his house, showed me the curious mene, and represented whales, bears, ravens, land ot- ters, eagles, thunderbirds, etc., and various other animals and iish, each accredited with special virtues for the cure of certain diseases. Selecting several which I desired to pur- chase, I placed in his hand the pieces of silver I was willing to pay for them. He counted the money, and then the cliarms over and over again, dwelling at length upon tbe wonderful curative powers oi the latter, but tinally accepting THE QUEEN CHAIlLOTTE ISLANDS. 71 my offer with the fuldition of a sinall pothiteli. The occupa- tion of the medicine man is now nearly ^one, only a few old people having any faith in their practice. Modeets ii^i the only doctor I have seen on the island who has kf)pt the vow taken when enterintr upon the profession never to cut or coml) his hair. His wife ohservino; that it was an ohject of interest to me, uidoosened the great hang, when the thick tangled ringlets spread over the old man's shoulders and reached down helow his waist. To further gratify my curios- ity, the chief put on a portion of his fantastic regalia, and ex- ecuted a medicine dance. The doctor then dressed me in his wildest and nules, given the greatest feasts, and made the most freipient and liberal potlatches. Though about seventy-five years of age, he is still quite vig- THE QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS. 73 It, 'h orous, and l»eiii^ well dressed in a suit of broad cloth, would easily pass for a much younger man. lie is the last of a race of powerful chiefa, his ancestors having ijeen hold and aggressive warrioVs, making many captive slaves from the other coast tribes. He is also a distinguised brave, but never fought with his own people, and has always been friendly to the whites. On one occasion he risked his own life to re- lease the captain and crew of a small vessel, the "Susan Sturgess," which had been made captive by the Indians of Massett. He has succeeded one after another of the chiefs of vsirious parts of the group by virtue of the erection of carved jxdes to their memory, bouiitifid feasts and genenms potlatches to their people, until he is now recognized as their greatest chief- VV TUK YAKOUN RIVER. Early in August we had reached the mouth of the Yakoun river, the largest stream on the island. Hundreds of salmon and salmon trout were Jnm])ing out their full length, as we paddled along under the shadows of the tall spruce which cover its banks. Advancing about a mile, we camped with a party of Massett Indians, who sold us splendiut by battening with our provision sack, we manageat until we had accomplished the round trip to the lake first men- tioned, by making several portages over log jami)s, shoals and rapids. Keturning, I decided to run one of the latter, and just as my men got out to lighten the canoe over a rocky phice, pushed out into the middle of the stream. Down my little bark swept, toward a narrow passage be- tween two re '.ks, around which the water was whirlinir and foaming. 1 had un(h;r-estimated the strength of the current, and in spite of my best efforts with one serviceable band, the canoe dashed on to one of the rocks, balanced a moment on its centre, whirled once around, and then sliot down stream, quivering like a frightened animal, into safe water again. VIRAOO SOUND, NADEN UARROR AND RTVER. Fifteen miles west of Masset the ocean indents the land for about thirteen miles from eiirht miles to one-eitjth of a mile in width forming what ih known as Virago Sound and Naden ITarbor, the latter being the most Jiccessible and safest anchor- ing ground for vessels on the north shore of the island. Into this iiarbor flows the Naden Uiver, the second largest stream THE QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS. 75 of tlie Qut'-tMi Charlotte ^roup. From MsiHsett Inlet touching at the abandoned village of Yan situated at its entrance, we j)ruceeded to those waters and advanced ten miles up the Naden Uiver three miles i)y canoe and thence on foot tliroutrh a thick forest of spruce and cedar with a dense undergrowth of intertwined salal, salmon, whortleberry and other hushes. I>ear tracks and traps were numerpus. hut no game was started except grouse, which were very tame and plentiful. Niglit overtook us several miles from crtmp, wet to the skin and without blankets! But further progress in the darkness being impossible, we l)uilt a roaring tire at the base of a great spruce tree, and lay down until daylight. The following night occupying one of the three habita!)le houses in the old village of Kung, situated at the entrance of the harbor, we found Cliinese pottery, and in the burying ground tlie largest carved figures of men we had seen, about seven feet in heiijht. Around North TKhmd into Cloak and all itfi othei' baya^ visiting the deserted 'irillages of Kioosta Yahh and Henslnng. Thirty-five miles further, stopping en route to examine the old village of Vatz and the Yalan River, brought us to the extreme northern land of the Queen Charlotte Islands, North Island. Here Capt. Marchand lay with his ships trading with the natives nearly one hundred years ago. The llydahs were then at least ten times their present numbers, swarming ill tlie waters and on the shores around the villages of Kioosta, Yakh and Tadense, where now only carved poles, houses in ruins, and numerous ixraves attest tlunr former reatness. Two Indian dotrs were the sole o fishins" and huntintr villam; of Tade ip ts ol Mise at the time of our ai rival. They had been left behind by sea otter hunters, with an abundant supply of whale blubber- -but were so lonesome that they followed us for a long distance along the shore, evidently for the purpose of being taken into our canoe. A beautiful clear, still day, favored the circumnavigation 76 THE EXPLORATION OF f t. !• I', A' ■■i * of Nortl» iHland, and tlie careful examination of its coast lino. A thick forest of spruce of small growth covers its entire area, down to its rocky shores, which are generally low, thoujfh risine^ to hold perpendicular hluffs from 50 to 200 feet in heijrht at North Point and around Cloak i?ay, the highest elevation on the island not exceeding 400 feet alxjve the sea. There are four small hays on its north-eastern side, from one to two miles in depth, oj)en to easterly winds, with fine sandy heaches at their heads where the remains of former habitations were visible. (31oak Bay, a much larfrer indenta- tion on the south-western shore, is exposed to westerly storms. The safest anchoraffe these waters affonl is found in a little cove on the south shore of the island between Cloak Bay and the vilhitre of Ilenslunir. Parry Passage, which separates North Island fromCraham is about a mile and a half in width, though the ship channel - very rapid except at th)od tide — is narrowed by reefs, and Lucy Island, to less tlian two thousand feet. Campintr ut the deserted village of Yakh, near Kioosta, we found large beds of strawberry vines of most luxuriant growth, anject far out to sea many rocky points with outlying reefs, white with breakers, except during the calmest weather; precipitous mountains from (me to four thousand feet in hight, cl(>thed with forests of pruce and cedar do\vn to the sea; l)eautiful land-locked harbors, with short stretches of fine satidy beach at their hea1TE ISLANDS. 77 III' lis Ktivmi.K ill wliit'li tsuliiioii und shIiiiom trout witc st't'ii l>y tlie liuinlii'ds; 8foreH of ihluiKls, isletH siiid cozy coves, wlicrc seal iiiid wild ^ccstj Hl)oiiiid, dcKcrihcs tlic ^viit'ral piiysicul feat- ures of tlie west coast of (iraliaiii Island. A si;bmkk(»ki> foukst. TIedoo is the iiiiiiie of u suiiiiiier rendezvous of tlie sea- otter iniiitei's of ISfassett, situated al»()Ut tiftei'u miles south of ('aj)e Knox. We liad landed at Klik-a-doo, a siiort dis tanc(^ ahove, the only place visihle where the sea appeartul not to he hreakini)-, and in exainiiiinLT the coast on foot several miles s(»uthward, discovered tht; tall pole which marks the site of the tliree cabins of TIedoo. At first view, the sea seemed to he hreakinu; alontj the entire front, hut a more careful examination disclosed a narrow entrance hetween the rocks throiioh which we were able to enter a perfectly shel- tered little canoe liarhor with a tine sandy beach at the land- ing place. A strong south-east wind caused a very low tide tlie follow- ing day, hiying bare a sandstone fiat about an eiglith of a mile from the beach, upon which black ol)jects were visible, I had already found on the sliore opposite at high tide, large pieces of lignite coal and petrified wood. Putting on my long boots, 1 soon discovered the base trunks of hundreds of forest trees from one to six feet in length extending as far out to sea as 1 could wade — some lying down and formed into lig- nite coal, but the greater number standing and petrified as hard as rock. The rocks along the north coast for hundreds of miles, show unmistakable evidence of violent volcanic action, and though the ocean has receded witliin the memory of Indians now living, these islands are probably the mount- ain tops of a submerged land, separated from the main body of the continent by the sinking of the earth's surface. AN INTERESTING RIDE. September with its gales had arrived, the last of the sea- otter hunters, except Captain John and family, we liad met IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-S) t ^ // ^ <^rt we were able to lighten the canoe by throwing things ashore and then haul her on the rocks. A split about three feet in length, above water line, was the only injury it sustained. C((iiq>uKj in a Cam,, we are out two miles across the divide where tides of Skidegate (channel meet those of Skidegate Inlet, brought us into the waters of the latter, in which we soon passed several parties of Indians camping at, and en route to salmon streams for their winter supply of dog salmon. Bill Itaving heard that his mother was with one of these parties, asked permission to land and see her. When tlie old woman saw her son approaching, she ran down the beach to meet him, and falling on her knees, ut- tered a wild strain of joyful exclamations over his safe return. I^KWTON II. ChI'ITENDEN.