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BEING LETTERS WRITTEN BY THE AUTHOR FROM ENGLAND, IRELAND SCOTLAND, BELGIUM, HOLLAND, DENMARK,' GERMANY, SWITZER- LAND, FRANCE, SPAIN, MONACO, ITALY, AUSTRIA, GREECE, TURKEY, TURKEY-IN-ASIA, THE HOLY LAND, EGYPT, INDIA, SINGAPORE, CHINA, JAPAN. CALIFOR- NIA, NEVADA, UTAH AND NEW YORK. TOOBTURR WITH NINETY-SIX ILLUSTRATIONS ENGRAVED ON WOOD. SECOND EDITION. I i \ How fresh was every sir/ fit and sountt On open main or winding shore I We knew the merri/ tvorld was round, And we might mil forcverm,ore." Tennyson. ^ov0nto: ROSE-BELFORD PUBLISHING COMPANY. 1881. \ V-P (^^zo~C54 \ Entered according to the Act of the Parliament of Canada in the year one thousand eight hundred and eighty-one, by Chester 'Jlas-s, in the Office i)f the Minister of Agriculture. V .^, \ X3 V To the Members of the Press, and other friends, who gave the writer a hearty welcome on his return home, these pagos are respectfully dedicated. 359388 II List of Illustrations. II CANADA. FAGE EDWAHI) HANLAN, CHAMPION SCLLLER OF THE \VoKLI>- full page, - M SUSPENSION BKIDUE AT NIAGARA FALLS, 5 UNITED STATES. STARS AND STRIPES- LIBKRTY, EQUALITY AND FRATEKNITV, • • 508 BIG TREEfl or MARIPOSA, CALIFORNIA- full page, .... fipj A CALIFORNIAN FoRTY-NINER, AN EMBRYO MILLIONAIHE-full page, - 621 ENGLAND. CHALK CLIFFS OF SOUTH COAST, 17 WINDSOR CASTLE, RESIDENCE OF THE QUEEN, 22 SIR BEVTS AT THE DERBY~NECK-AND-NECK PASSING THE WINNING- POST— full page, • • - 2o THE THAMES EMBANKMENT— full page, ....... 34 RIGHT HON. W. E. GLADSTONE, 35 THE EARL OF BEACONSFIELD, 47 SCOTLAND. OLD EDINBURGH BY GASLIGHT, 30 SCOTT'S MONUMENT ON PRINCES STREET, 61 EDINBURGH CASTLE -full page, 53 BOOM WHERE JOHN KNOX DIED -full page, 54 HOLYKOOD PALACE AND MONUMENT TO BURNS -full page, • • . 66 COLLEGE WYND, WHERE WALTER SCOTT WAS BORN, - • • • 58 IRELAND. THE giant's CAUSEWAY, 67 TOMB OF EDMUND BURKE, Qg THE FAR-FAMED BLARNEY CASTLE, • • • - . . . 76 BELGIUM. tHE BELFRY OF BRUGES, . • 77 VI LIST OP ILLUSTRATIONS. THE LION MOUND ON THE FIELD OF WATKRLOO, - HOLLAND. WINDMILLS AND DYKE8, ....... HTBEET SCENE IN AMSTERDAM— TEAM OF DOGS, • DENMARK. rHOBVALDSEN, THE GREAT DANISH SCULl'TOH, • SWEDEN. WHABF-St'ENE— full pivyc, GERMANY. BBANDENBUIKJ GATE AT THE END OF THE UNTER DEN LINDEN, THE GREAT WINE TUN AT HEIDLEBERG CASTLE, • A CASTLE ON THE RHINE— full page, SWITZERLAND. LUCERNE AND MONT PILATU8, FRANCE. PLACE DE LA CONCORDE AT PARIS— full page, - THE TRI-COLOUR OF FRANCE, WITH CAP OF LIBERTY, - SPAIN. PAOE 80 83 86 HBAD-PIKCE— BALCONY AND CONVENT, SPANISH PEASANT GIRLS— full page, SPANISH MONASTERY AND MONKS, MONACO. GAMBLING CARDS AT MONTE CARLO, .... ITALY. VENICE— GRAND CANAL AND PALACE OF THE DOGES, '- bird's-eye VIEW OF PISA, WITH ITS LEANING TOWER, ROME- CUPOLA OF ST. PBTER's, -THE PANTHEON, ARENA OF THE COLOSSEUM — full page, -TOMBS ON THE APPIAN WAY, . . . • 87 80 ill 10.3 106 101 110 108 123 126 130 132 139 7 160 162 172 173 PAOB 80 87 80 !»I 103 106 101 110 108 123 125 130 U.ST OF ITXUSTRATfONS. ROME- INTKBIOR OK THE CATACOMBS, • •' —ST. PETER'S CATHEDRAL, THE TIBER AND CASTLE OF ST. ANOELO, " —ST. PETER'S AND THE VATICAN— full page, . . . . CRATER OF THE VOLCANO VESUVIUS, SCENE IN EXCAVATED POMPEII, THE VOLCANO STROMBOLI, A LINK BETWEEN VESUVIUS AND .CTNA, GREECE. PALLAS ATHENE, THE 00DDE8S OF THE ATHENIANS, .... THE ACROPOLIS AT ATHENS, WITH THE PARTHENON AND THE TEMPLE OF JUPITER OLYMPUS— full page, TURKEY. MAHOMMEDAN MOSQUE WITH MINARETS, ...... PALACE OF THE SULTAN ON THE BOSPHORUS-fuU page, - A TURKISH pasha's WIFE, THE LATE SULTAN ABDUL AZIZ, - WHERE NEXT? TURKEY.IN-ASIA. THE OIANT STONES OP BAALBEC, THE HOLY LAND. A BEDOUIN TRAVELLER IN THE DESERT, THE HOLY SEPULCHRE AT JERUSALEM—fuU page, .... THE WAILING-PL.VCE OP THE JEWS, AT THE ACTUAL FOUNDATIONS OF SOLOMON'S TEMPLE— full page, EGYPT. Cleopatra's needle, as it once stood at Alexandria, ■ POSTAGE stamp, PYRAMIDS AND SPHINX, CHEFREN, the BUILDER OF THE SECOND PYRAMID, PHARAOH MENEPHTHES, WHO DROVE THE ISRAELITES OUT OF EGYPT, THE PYRAMIDS, INDIA. TAJ MAHAL, THE MOST MAGNIFICENT EDIFICE IN THE WORLD, AN INDIAN RUPEE— VICTORIA EMPRESS, .... vn PAGE 181 185 188 199 202 210 208 220 223 9 232 234 237 257 266 291 301 320 322 332 Ml 10 352 3.55 VIU MHT OF ILLUSTRATIONS. ELKPHANT-niniNfi IN INDIA- full page, OKOIIP OP MATIVK I'RINCKrt OK INDIA full pa>,'P, THE MONKKY TEMPIjE AT UBNAUEH— full page, MALACCA. MALAY niVKRH AT SINOAPORE, THE ANTIPODES, HAI,P-WAY ROUND THE WORLD, HONGKONG. f'HINEHE PALANQUIN, OR SEDAN CHAIR, CHINA. MOONLIOHT AT aEA, .... CHINEHE PAOODA AND JUNKH, BOOT AND FOOT OP A SMALL-FOOT WOMAN, CHINESE VIHITINO CARDS, TAIL-PIECE : MOON-Pi.CE AND PIG -TAIL, JAPAN. THE EMPIRE OF THE RISING SUN, THE FAMOUS INLAND SEA OF JAPAN, ISLAND OF ENOSHINA, BY A NATIVE ARTIST, .... DAIB00T8, THE LARGEST PERFECT FIGURE IN EXISTENCE- full page, A JAPANESE DINNER, WITH MUSICIANS AND RICE-GIRLS— full page, PUBLIC NUDE-BATHING IN JAPAN, JAPANESE FERRY- BO AT— full page, NATIVE DINNER BILL, JAPANESE TEMPO, JAP. BED, WITH WOODEN PILLOW AND LANTERN, A NATIVE FAMILY GROUP, JAPS. ON THE WAY TO MARKET, A STREET IN ABIMA, HANDSOME COSTUME OF A NATIVE JAP., FUJIYAMA, THE SACRED MOUNTAIN OP THE JAPS., JINRICSHA RIDING WITH NATIVE COOLIES— full page, HOME. PAGE :tti7 371 400 n 40ft 408 416 421 428 441 44C 447 485 486 489 495 14 497 498 500 458 461 464 478 502 526 TPUNK FULL OF 9URIOS, 10 PAOF ■M\7 ;i7i I IS i '*TF^HE following pages consist of letters written from Mr), cities on the four continents to a daily journal during a tour around the world which lasted about a year and a half, together with a large amount of correspond- ence hitherto unpublished. For years, it had been my cherished idea to make the circuit of the Globe, and to see the strange peoples and strange sights of other lands. I had long been promised the tour, to commence so soon as 1 had acquired my profession. This being accomplished, I started out on 10th May, 1879. To my delight, a few months afterwards 1 met a friend at Paris, France, who decided to accompany me for the whole journey. Our pleasure was enhanced by the fact that my friend and I were of the same profession, and had similar tastes in the way of keen relish for ad- venture and si<;ht-.seeinir. In writing about different nations, their religions and their customs, I have endeavoured to speak with toler- ance and without prejudice, to give them credit for what AA'as really worthy of it, and to condemn what appeared to be clothed in biofotrv and humbu";. PllEPACE. The composition must not be too severely criticized, for most of tlie letters were written not only amidst the ex- citement and novelty of sij^lit-seeing, but in odd, out-of- the-way places, as noisy hotels; pitching steamships; Syr- ian huts ; tents in Palestine ; Indian bungalows, with the heat at frying point ; Chinese inns, with the owners of pig- tails swarming a'ound ; — or in Japanese tea-houses, with one's attention distracted by cuiious and in({uisitive natives. After leaving Greece, a somewhat connected narrative is kept up; before that lime 1 have only written of sub- jects which specially attracted my attention. In conclusion, so far as I have been able to learn, no book has yet been published covering all the ground spanned by the following pages, namely, a thorough tour around the Globe, witli correspondence from the various points of interest, written on the sj>ot. -.^ TOUR ai'ouiid the Globe sounds foriiiRlable, but tlie railvva\'.s, steamships, and telegraphs of the nineteenth century have greatly dwarfed what was once regarded as a feat of daring and enterprise. From the days when Captain Cook astonished Europe with the announcement that he had actually three times at oomplished the circumnavigation of the Globe up to twelve years ago, there were but few persons who had properly made the tour. Now, however, since the building of the Pacific Railway, completing an iron girdle around the continent, we have furnished to us what was for ages a missing link. But there are even to-day several modes of going around the world. For instance, thousands of sailors can say that they have left England for Australia via the Suez Canal, and returned home by way of Cape Horn. In this way, of course, they .see almost nothing, having only stopped at a few sea-ports, and never having even got within gun-shot of the cities of Europe and Asia. Another traveller, desiring the mere credit of having seen all the countries of the earth, sets out on the journey with this grim «letermination, and resolves to finish the INTRODUCTION. tour within five or six months. He does this, probably, on a Cook's ticket, rushing through Japan, China, and India, making rapid connections with trains and steamers, and finally bolting past the Pyramids and over into Italy. A day in Rome — a glance at Venice — a dash through the tunnelled Alps, and away he goes to Paris. He arrives home, weary and dissatisfied, having finished his tour within the allotted time, but really having done himself and the great subject undertaken but scant jus- tice. Then, again, there are others who manage matters some- what differently. They travel leisurel}', buying no through tickets, stay- ing long enough in each country to see its cities and its people, to understand the leading features of its history, and to participate in the amusements and modes of life of the natives. They enjoy life, never think of moving away from a place till quite ready, and spend at least a year and a half or two years in this thoroughly pleasant mode of travelling. When they arrive home, they are stronger in body and mind than when they left, and have a clear and possibly an intelligent idea of the great sights of the earth. Under the banner of this latter class of travellers, T "svould advise an intending tourist to enrol himself. SYNOPSIS OF TOUR. PART I. 'HIS 811011 chapter and the following one cont«,in a running synopsis of the contents of the book, so that the reader may have, at a glance, a comprehen- sive idea of the itinerary followed without reading through the whole of the pages to discover it. I left my home at London, Canada, by Great Western Railway; pxssed Niagara Falls, took the New York Cen- ei s, T SL«I'ENHION BBirxiE OVEIl THK CHASM AT NIA(;AKA. tral to the Great Metropolis of the Empiie State ; and at New York embarked on the steamship " Abyssinia," of the Cunard Line, for Liverpool, where we landed after a ten days' passage, during which the ocean was as smooth as a mill-pond, an^ I so sea-sick that I hadn't a gleam of hope or [)luck left in me. I went pretty thoroughly over Great Britain from the Isle of Wight to the Highlands of Scotland, visiting Edin- burgh, with its Princes street, the most picturesque prom- enade in the world, and spending six weeks in exploring London, that most delightful of cities. After an Irish tour from Cork to the Giant's Causeway, seeing hy the way the Groves of Blarney, the lovely Lakes am G SYNOrSlS OF TOUR. I of Killarnoy, classic Dublin, go-ahead Belfast, and the fine old Cathedral City of Armagh, I crossed through England and over to Ostend, in Belgium, at last touching foreign soil. Brussels ; the field of Waterloo ; Antwerp, with its masterpieces of Ruber.s ; quaint old Rotterdam ; Amstei'- dam, the Venice of the North, with its diamond mer- chants and its " Night Watch," and Hamburg, the great free city of Germany, were all in turn visited. A Danish steamer, up the Baltic, took me to Copenha- gen, the shrine of Thorvaldsen ; a flying visit to Sweden, and then back to Germany. Berlin, the splendid capital of Kaiser William ; Dres- den, the home of art ; Cologne, famous ecpially for its pleasant perfumes and its disagreeable odours; the Rhine, with its picturesque castles and its sunny vineyards ; Frankfort, the cradle of the Rothschilds ; Baden, with its memories of Rouge et Noir; and fortified Strasburg, were each enjoyed. Then came Switzerland, with Lucerne, the gem of lakes, and the glorious view from the Rigi. A railway ride through France brought me to Paris, the gayest of the gay, where I spent five weeks most enjoyably, seeing the dark as well as the bright side of the far-famed French metropolis. Here I met an old Canadian friend, who decided to accompany me around the world. Together we descended through the rich heart of Gaul to Marseilles, the hot-bed of revolutions. By rail again we crossed the Pyrenees and entered Spain, the land of beautiful Senoras, stately Dons, and terrific bull-fights. From Barcelona we sailed across the Mediterranean to Marseilles, and went to Nice, the favourite English winter resort. The gorgeous Gambling Palace of Monaco; the magnificent scenery of the Riviera; Genoa, which breathes of Columbus ; the wonderful Cathedral of Milan, and the inasterpiece of Leonardo were seen, and we moved o^ to II SYNOPSIS OF TOU«. the the euch d to ^ -r" Venice, that weird City of the Sea, which one never thinks of but in a sort of dream. Across the Adriatic to Trieste, the Austrian home of the ill-fated Maximilian, and of his still more unhappy ( ^arlotta. Then to Bologna, famed for its past learnin<(, and Flor- ence, with its great picture galleries containing priceless treasures of art. Across to Pisa, with its leaning Towei- and its wonder- — P^- ^.^ — ^.. ^ ful echo, and down j—-^ \^ ^ ^^ ^ ^j^^ Italian coast, parsing in sight of Corsica, the birth- place of the Man of Destiny, who shook the cobwebs fiom the eyes of Europe, and ujade monarchs tremble in his pres- bird's-eve view ok PISA. ence. Kome at last, and glad we were to see it. Five weeks were none too long to see the glories of the once mistress of the worlil, and then we were off to Naples, Vesuvius and Pompeii. Steamship from here to Sicily ; passing through the ex- aggerated dangers of Scylla and Charybdis, and viewing the monster /Etna, we saile 10 SYNOPSIS OF TOUR. !i i; I stn(l(^nt ; the Pyramids, the last of the Seven Wonders of the World, and the Sphynx — monuments mysterious and vast — all claimed om- ;.if, ).fi,,ii K I By rail throu<;h the land of Goshen, wlicre the children of Israel toiled for the Eeer, and then up to Delhi, the Durbar City of the Great Moguls, where luxury once ran riot, and barbaric splendour was the order of the day. i SYPNOSIS OF TOUR. 11 We tarried at the "Mutiny" cities, Cawnpore and Luck- now, with their imperishable memories of " fair women and brave men." Also, at Benares, the holy city of tlie Hindoos, with its worshipped monkeys, elephants and bulls, and its burning ghats for human bodies; then we sped down the fertile valley of the Ganges to (Calcutta, the capital of the Em|)ire. This city, which witnessed the dangers and the triumphs of Hastings, and the dire tragedy of the Black Hole, is to-day bright, attractive and prosperous. Down the Hoogley, past its treacherous quick-sands, out of the Delta and into the Bay of Bengal. Penang,an island weighed down with the wealth of the tropics, where mangoes, cocoanuts and mangosteens flour- ish, and then we came to Singapore, seventy miles from the Equator and the antipodes of our home. We were half way aroun=:■ n)a«'e, in his Tabernacle. The building is said to seat o,0()0, and was jammed to the doors some time before service began. It is built in the style of a modern opera house, the seats near the entrance being about ten feet higher tlian those in front. 'Yha |)astor sits at the roar of the platform in a plain arm-cliair. There is a small table V)efore him, but no other furniture. Iirimediately below Mr, Talmage is seated the organist, who plays as if his life depended upon the lou(hiess of his music. In front of the platform, to the right of the preacher on an ele- vated (lias, stands Arbuckle, the bugler, who is an im- portant feature of the service. When Talmage gave out the hymn, Arbuckle mounted his IS a kind and action. ■T V, ■,■■-,, 'J 4 f f !i| in III I' fl li 24 DERBY DAY. liad provided theniselvcs witli pea-.shootors and two pock- ets crammed full of peaH. We had dozens of tormentors, iind kept our neighbours in a lively state of excitement, lioldint^tlii'ir ears to keep out the bugle blast, and in pro- tecting themselves from the showers of peas and torrents of wattii*. The only part I took was in laughing until I tliought 1 would expire, and in keeping my bugler con- stantly blowing, hardly giving him a moment's rest. It was certainly a jolly, free, happy day for the people. All the girls in the windows and on the side of the road threw kisses to whoever would notice them in the car- liagcs or on the top of a four-in-hand. It rained a little and got rather daik near the city, but jiothing could dampen our ardour. We sang and shouted till all were lioarse. It must sound rather sillv to read about, but the people thought it was real, unadulterated fun, and so it was. I "^ o pock- iientors, tement, in pro- torrents until I ;ler con- ;st. i people. ;he road the car- city, but shouted ' to read iilterated ENGLAND. THE OREAT RACR ON THE TYNK— OUK B^Y HANLAN VH. KT.MOTT -SCENES UE- KOKKTHE STRUr.CLE- HUJH I,RVEr, BRIDOE— HANI.AN AS COOF. AS A t'lICUM- HKK THE KKARKUI, EXERTIONS »»K ELMOTT-THUNDERS OK AI'HI.AIISE - HEAVY BETTINC THE CANADIAN TAKES IT EASII,Y— AND WINS- TIME, 21 MIN. I SEC— FRESH AS A DAISY — PLAYINU WITH THE BRITISH CHAMPION— KACTS ABOl'T EACH— COLONEL SHAW, THE FRIEND OF THE VICTOR— CARRIER PIUEONS— PRESS ENTERPRISE— HANI-AN's SPEECH- PRATSED IN EVERY LAND -STORY ABOUT THE CANADIAN -HANLAN VS. TRICKETT AND LAYCOCK. Newcastle-on TVNE, ENOr.AND, 17th June, 1879. ,T was announced in the Newcastle Ghroniclc, tliat the contest between " our Canadian boy Hanlan " and William Klliott, the great English sculler, for the a({uati3 championshi]) of England, was not to commence till 11.45 a.m., so we had a couple of hours to stroll around Newcastle-on-Tyne. On the corners of the streets were to be se^n kn(jts of excited sporting men, some of whom had con e from long distances, and had a large money in- terest in the result of the approaching contest. The neighbourhood of the railway station presented a busy ap- pearance ; every few minutes trains arrived from all direc- tions, east, west, north and south, packed with people who had come to see the much-talked-of and long-expected race. The pojmlation of the town is over a hundred thousand, and it has been estimated it was considerably more than doubled by the influx of visitors on this day. The coming struggle was regarded with ])eculiar inter- est both by the sporting men, who are an extensive and influential body in England, and by the public at large. The competitors stood on the top rung of the ladder in their profession, and each was the champion of a great ^ 2G KNGLAND. continent. Never before had real terror entered into the hearts of the Tynesiders. True, they had lost races in the past, but they were always confident of producing a cham- ])ion who could recover and keep the coveted laurels. Now, however, a youthful, boyish-looking stranger had appeared upon the scene, had thrown down the gauntlet to the gigantic and world-renowned scullers of the Tyne, and the general opinion airiongst friends and opponents was that his success was almost a foregone conclusion. The British champion is a splendid specimen of his class, a very Her- cules in size anrl strength, and regarded as the best sculler in England. On the other hand, Edward Hanlan, the champion of America, is a young man of njedium size, rather slight in build, and I should say would not have much more than half the physical strength of his oppo- nent. Notwithstanding these apparent ineijualities, the aver- age betting, for some reason which hns never been satis- factorily explained, was al)Out two to one; in favour of Hanlan. It could not be becau.se the Canat d6 ENGLAND. i III 'fi years old, of about medium height, with a stern, hand- some face, and quick, bright eyes. One of the chief })ic- tures at the Royal Academy this year is his portrait by the great painter, Millais. True to nature, it deUneates a rugged face with a broad intellectual forehead and a decidedly Roman nose, altogether features denoting great mental strength. Gladstone is a worthy leader of the Liberal party in England. He was first returned to Par- liament in 1832, in the Conservative interest, but, like Sir Robert Peel, he afterwards found a more congenial sphere in the ranks of the Liberal party. When he announced his conviction that he could no longfer follow his Tory leader, he was assailed by a servile press with the coarsest abuse, and branded as a traitor and a rene- gade. The people, however, who are always, in the long- run, the best judges, ha ^e thought differently of him, and at the present moment no public man in England has such a well-earned reputation in the hearts of the British nation for unswerving integrity and an entire devotion to the true interests of the people.* John Bright, who was for some time in earnest conver- sation with Mr. Gladstone, is acknowledged to be the greatest orator in England. He has always been fore- most in the ranks contending for the many reforms through which the country has passed during his parlia- mentary career. Although now sixty-seven years of age, and with hair quite white, he is still a vigorous and ener- getic man, and apparently in the best of health. He is about the same heiijjht as Mr. Gladstone, but has much broader shoulders and a deeper chest. When he got up to speak he rose so deliberately that another member, and on the Government side, had the floor before him ; how- ever, when the latter perceived that John Bright was also I * The electioua in the spring of 1880, subsetiuent to the writing of this let- ter, have proved, by un overwhelming majority, how British public opinion regards Mr. Gladstone. THE MARQUIS OF HAllTINCJTON. 37 'n, hand- chief })ic- ►rtrait by lelineates ad and a ,ing great 31' of the id to Par- but, like confjenial When he rer follow ress with d a rene- the long- r of him, Enorland ts of the m entire it eonver- o be the een fore- reforms is parlia- ,rs of age, md ener- He is las much le got up nber, and m ; how- was also of this let- blic opinion on his feet, he immediately l)Owed and gave way. All were anxious to hear him, and where a moment before tliere wjis a fearful hubbub of voices, it now in a moment became as (juiet as a church, and all bent forward to hear the silver-tongued orator. He commenced to s|)eak very slowly, but in a clear, distinct voice, which rang out over the House in decided contrast to the com[)aratively imper- fect speaking which had preceded him. He spoke for about a (juarter o*" an hour on the barbarity of flogging with the 'cat" in the army, and drew a stirring picture of the greu'i; injustice which sometimes occurs through this beastly system of punishment. His persuasive and con- vincing eloquence reminded me of the lines of Homer : — "Experienced Nestor, in persuasion skilled, Words sweet as honey from his lips distilled." On the left of Mr. Bright, a little further from the Speaker, sat the Marquis of Hartington. He is the eldest son and heir-apparent of the Duke of Devonshire, and is leader of Her Majesty's Loyal Opposition in the Com- mons. The Marquis is forty -five years of age, and up to this time is a happy bachelor. From the average mother's point of view, I fancy he would be regarded as the best match in England. His income is now large, but will be something fabulous when he comes into the title. He will then be the lord and master over one hundred and ninety thousand acres of land, situated in the most fertile ))arts of England and Ireland, besides coal mines, manu- factories, and city houses without number. About a week ago I looked over the palace and grounds at Chatsworth, the principal seat of the Duke of Devonshire. It is situ- ated in Derbyshire, and is the chief one of what are called the four princely residences of England. The picture- galleries, libraries, collections of antique china and curi- osities, green-houses, fountains, kc, are the best that money can procure, and are very interesting. It is a charming drive of eleven miles around the park, and thtj 38 ENGLAND. palace is a superb eilifice; yet, notwitlistanding these at- tractions, there is no mistress to shed her benign influ- ence over all, for the Duke is a widower, and the Marquis is still unmarried. But I fear 1 am wandering very far from the House of Commons. When the Marquis of Hartington rose to speak he was received with warm Opposition cheering, and listened to with attention by tlu; whole House. He is not at all a clear or impressive si)eaker, and his elocu- tion is careless, hesitating and defective, but ho appeared to be an honest sort of a man, and to mean what he said. I was informed that he is popular in the House, and when in Mr. Gladstone's late Government showed excellent ad- ministrative qualities. On the same side of the House, but below the gangway, are seated a compact body of men, who for eloquence and wit, and a deti^rmination to make their influence felt, sur- pass any other e(|ual number of members in the House. In vain do the Government try to annihilate them by cold indifference or direct snubbing. Every session-day these Home Rulers are to be found in their places, always ready to contend for a principle which they believe to be right. They all speak with a strong Irish accent, and those that I heard address the House spoke with unusual force and brilliancy. They are the life of the whole assembly, and though often extremely amusing in their quick repartee and in relating an occasional anecdote, they are thorough- ly in earnest in at all times advocating their darling scheme, " Home Rule for Ireland." Since the death of the late much-lamented Isaac Butt, M. P. for Limerick, Mr. Charles Stewart Parnell, M. P. for Meath, a prominent Irish Protestant, has been chosen leader of these remark- able men. Below the gangway is also seated Sir Charles Dilke, M. P. foi- Chelsea. He is a young man, thirty-five years of age, and a distinguished member of the House, in appearance tall and slight, with a dark complexion and prominent features. He is an agreeable speaker, but, like I MR. SECRETARY CROSS. 30 hose at- [n iriHu- Marquis iouso of rose to leerin^^, ?e. lie s elocu- peared ho said, d wlien ont ad- ngway, ICO and 3lt, sur- House. by cold y these 3 ready 5 right, se that •ce and ly, and jpartee roiiffh- larling of the k, Mr. ninent mark- /harles by-five House, Dn and fc, like most of the other members, talks in a conversational sort of a way, making no attempt at excellence of elocution. The members who sit bolow tho gangway, on either side of the Speaker, are supposed to be independent, and not to be the absolute property in foe-sim[)le of either party. Thus far T have only mentioned members sitting on the Opposition, or Liberal, side of the House. On the Government benches are many men well known to the world. Sir Stafford Northcote, the Chancellor of the Exche- quer, and M. P. for North Devon, has stepped into the shoes of the Earl of Beaconsfield, and is the Government loader in the Commons. He is a tall, stout man, with grey hair and a thick, heavy beard, and is fifty years old. I have not had an opportunity of hearing him speak more than a few words, but am informed he is a good speaker and a master of parliamentary tactics. He sat almost op- posite to Mr. Gladstone. Next to the Chancellor of the Exchequer sat Mr. Secretary Cross, who, whenever I have attended the House, ap[)eared to have more business to attend to and more questions to answer than any other member of the Government. It is said to be a rule that men who particularly dis- tinguish themselves in the Universities seldom make a prominent figure in the world afterwards; this is probably attributable to the fact that too much study has worn them out, and made them unfit in their more mature years to grapple with and overcome difficulties. To this rule, if it be a rule, Mr. Cross has proved an exception. At his University he carried everything be- fore him — prizes, scholarships and medals — and has now crowned his successful career by having been chosen for a most important post in the Ministry. He is a barrister of the Inner Temple, and as Home Secretary draws a salary of twenty-five thousand dollars per annum. He is not even a fair public speaker, but has a pleasant manner, and is very conciliatory to the Opposition. The House I III fl ■ 1 1 40 ENGLANO. liavinf^ resolved itself into a coimnittec, I had an oppor- tunity of lieann<( the dullest speech of tin; eveniii<,', ft was deliveiedhy Mr. Speaker Brand, who, for aggravating pom- posity, stands without a peer in the House. The burden of his remarks was that the Government hnd a majority, and that the minoiity shouM, therefore, quietly submit and not take up the time of the House in making objec- tions to the desires of the Ministry. This was a remarkal)le doctrine to propound, but as not a soul in the House paid the slightest attention to it, his remarks did no harm to the great principle of freedom of speech in Parliament, of which we so justly boast. Opj)osite to the Home Rulers sat Lord Eleho, M.P. for Haddingtonshire. He is a rising man in the Conservative ranks. In appearance he has the erect mien of a military officer, and, coupled with a good voice, is a pleasant and fluent speaker. Quite an intei'esting diversion was caused b}"- Lord Charles Beresford, M.P. for Waterford. He is but a boy in ap])earance, and I was surprised that he had the temerity to address the House at all. He is a captain in the navy, and made a rattling good speech, defending the use of " the cat " at sea. The speech was good, chiefly from the fact that he spoke out like a man, and did not, as the majority of the members do, mumble away as if he were carrying on a soliloquy. He is a young Irishman, brother of the Marquis of Waterford, and, I am informed, is a favourite protegd of the Prince of Wales. Seated on the bench beside the Chancellor of the Ex- chequer was the Right Hon. William Henry Smith, First Lord of the Admiralty. He is said to be the hardest-work- ing man in the Government, and to have a marvellous head for details. Before being taken into the Ministry, he was known to fame as the head of the gi-eac firm of W. H. Smith & Son, news-agents. At every station on the vast network of railways which covers England is to be seen a neat and commodious news-stand^ where books, DH, KENEALY, MP. 41 nowHpapers and maps, all the very latest puhli^ied, are exi>oserinte(l " W. H. Smith & Son." The First Lord is 53 years old, and I believe has now withdrawn from all con- nection with the enormous news traflic in favour of his son. He has a cool, business-like mode of speaking, which is quite refreshing. Next to Mr. (!ross sat Colonel Stanley, M.P. for North Lancashire. He is Secretary of War, and just now, owing to the Afghan and Zulu troubles, has his hands full, not only in attending to the onerous duties of his otHee, but also in defending himself from the searching inijuiries and shaip criticism of the members opposite below the gang- way. He is a fine, stalwart-looking man, l)ut only an average speaker ; is 37 yeai-s (»f ago, and a brother of the Karl of Derby. Both sides of the House seem to regard him as (juite an authority. Not far from Lord Elclio was Sir Robert Peel. The mere mention of his name led me to expect something fine, and I was not disappointed. He has been in the army, and is every inch a soldier, not only in his bearing, but in the manly, deep tones in which he addressed the House. His sensible, pointed remarks very properly received sxn atten- tive hearing. He is a worthy descendant of his illustri- ous ancestor. Edward Vaughan Kenealy, M.P. for Stoke-upon-Trent, is well known to all the reading world as the celebrated and fearless advocate of the Tichborne claimant. At the time of the famous trial he was an eminent Q.C., a Bencher of Gray's Inn, and stood among the fore- most at the Bar of England as a counsel of extraordinary ability. He conducted his client's cause with only too much zeal, and for that zealous devotion to what his friends say he thought was his duty, he was removed from his high position as a Bencher, disbarred by the Benchers of Gray's Inn, and can now no longer practise his profes- sion, He is certainly a martyr to the Tiohborno cause, '! 42 ENGLAND. The refill) fc of brinj^ing that unfortunate action is, that of the two j)rin(Mpal characters concerned, on UTIIEK I'KKRH TAKK PAKT. London, England, 1.S70. ^HK Brltisli House of Lords is a much nioro diguiHed ||\ ami screiU! cbauibor tlian tlio Houso of (.'Onunons. ^^ The lattor is plainly fitted up, ami is usually well tilled with a noisy, boisterous lot of men, who, when an obnoxious member is spcakinp;, seem to vie with one another as to who can make the <,aeatest disturbance, either by talkin<^ loudly, laughing, calling out " Order ! " " Sit down! " " Question ! " or something else to disconcert the speaker. Leaving the Commons during the heat of a debate, I walked over into the gallery of the Lords, and was much impressed with the ditterent cliaracteristics of the two Houses, TIk^ upper chamber is quite gorgeous in appearance, and, although it has more than two hundred less members than the Commons, its room is considera- bly larger and higher. There are 434 peers, but the red leather benches are seldom even fairly filled. Everything is conducted in the most quiet and inoffensive manner; in fact, they are hardly given an opportunity to get up any excitement, as their deliberations usuallylast lessthan an hour. The ordinary programme is somewhat as fol- lows : The Speaker takes the chair and proceeds to open the House, whereupon noble lords show their appreciation of the solemnity of their position by talking quietly to each other, and not paying any attention to the Lord Chancellor, who is, meanwhile, in an incoherent sort of way, passing some bills through and declaring them duly carried. After the Lord Chancellor has made these laws of the realm, he promptly adjourns the House, which, for w 44 ENGLAND. that day, concludes the labours of this august assemblage. Sometimes there is not even this much business to be done, but, on the other hand, on rare occasions the House sits for several hours. They seldom originate bills, and usually are content with constituting themselves a check on the more hasty and impetuous Commons. Opposite the gallery is the throne of the Sovereign. To the rifjht is a lower throne for the Sovereifjn's consort, and on the left another for the Prii'^e of Wales. All three are magnificent and richly embellished. In front of the throne is the celebrated woolsack, which has the ap- pearance ^f a very plain cushioned ottoman covered with crimson repp. On this seat Lord Chancellor Cairns sits and regulates the proceedings. The first front bench to the right of the woolsack is occupied by the Archbishop of Canterbury and the other spiritual lords. This place is alloiteat 1*0 111 on re in ho 1111 his las- )ocl on ten he 03 I I I .; V-. .».S^; S I o y. o 04 ip MM nOLYROOD PALACE. u a X o 'A M Ed o passage near tlie Queen's private apartment, the tlark l)lo(Ml-stains of her lover, Riz/io, which have never been erased. Queen Mary was only forty-live years old when slu^ «lied, and had been Queen of France and of Scotland ; had married three husbands, and had suffered nineteen years' imprisonment. She was the mother of James the Sixth of Scotland and First of England. I was shown the room in the Castle (not nine feet s(juare) where James was born. She seems to me to have been a pretty hard case, but all Scotchmen, for some reason, look upon her memory with a great deal of reverence. The most remarkable feature about Holyrood Palace is what is called " The Abbey Sanctuary." This very much resembles the Cities of Refuge mentioned in the Bible. The Sanctuary comprises the Holyrood Abbey precincts and all the Queen's Park. In olden times it had a criminal jurisdiction, but now confines itself to insolvent debtors. By the law of Scotland at the present moment, insolvents can be arrested for debt ; if, however, they are wily enough to esca}>e to the Sanctuary, they can stand on one side of the road and make faces at their enraged creditors on the other. If they step one foot !)eyond the well-known boundary line they may be dragged to prison. The old guide informed me that it was greatly used at the present day. During the panic which occurred after the smash- up of the Bank of Glasgow, at all hours of the night ex- cited, despairing men would rush into the Sanctuary, and there, at least, in its quiet solitude, feel safe from all the world. Some men who are there now have been in the place for years, and do not care to leave, but generally a stay of three or four days is all that is re([uired to make some arrangement with their creditors. This is the only remaining Sanctuary in Great Britain, and it has been especially excepted in the statutes abolishing the others. We visited the Signet Library and Advocates' Library. The latter contains more than 2()(),00() volumes, and was a great resort of Sir Walter Scott ; in the place where M, V, o BS n I I M < Q O O M O EDINHUUOH CASTLE. 67 H he was wont to rest, is liis sitting Hgure in marble, very natunii and life-like in appearance. We weie in tiie Heotcli Law Oouits, and tliere listened to cases trieraries are more extensive than th(^ one at Osgoode Ifall, Toronto, hut tlie building not half so tine. In the old town, the road which runs from the Cattle to Holy rood is called High Street; this was foiinerly tlie rendezvous of fashion and tlu; resort of dandies, but time works great changes ; it is now the lowest slum of Edin- burgh, and, with the exception of the neighbourhood of Seven Dials and Drury Lane;, at London, contains more tilth and s((ualid men, women and children than any place in the island. On this street are, John Knox's house ; a house once occupied by Oliver Cromwell anirth and deatli. The most prominent and romantic feature in any view of the city is " Edinburgh Castle." This stands on a pre- cipitous rock, 445 high, and was the scene of many a fiei-ce conflict during the feuds between the Highlands and Lowlands, and also between the Scotchmen and tlieir too ])owcrful foes, the English. The entrance is over a regu- lar bond Jide old moat and diawbridge of the feudal times; and its towers, battlements and prison-cells all speak of days long gone by. In the (Jrown-room are exhibited the (Jrown Jewels of Scotland ; these were lost for a long number of years, })ut were finally ERRy— GIANT'S CAUSEWAY -SEA-SICK ON THE CHANNEL — DESOLATE SOUTH lUELAND-THE LAKES OF KILLAUNEY— BEWITCHING KATB KEAUNEY— IKI IH GAME COCKS — A JOLLY RIDE THROUGH GAP OF DUNLOB— KISSING THE BLARNEY STONE- HOW A CiRL DID IT. Cork, Ireland, 25th Aug., 1879. /^tW ^ last letter left me shakiiif^ hands with mv uncle at Portadown station. I had been heartily wel- comed by my Irisli relatives, and had spent a deh'g^htful week at the house in which my grandfather was born. After a }ileasant railway journey up thiough tlie north country, J arrived at Londonderry. 'J'lie memorable siege of Derry,in 1G88, marks an epoch in the history of Protestant Ireland, and this is about all the town is noted for. The walls are in a perfect state of preservation, and are exactly one mile in circumference. They are between twenty and thirty feet thick, so the wear^ms of the day liad not much effect on them at the time of the siege ; but under our modern system of aitillery the masonry wouldn't sta,nd out many hours. I walked around on top of the walls. There iwe four unwieldy gates — one of them called " Butchers' Gate," because of the terrible slaughter which occurred at this })oint during (me of the onslaughts of the attacking army. H lom Derry by rail to Po.t Rush, where, in compan}'' with a vivacious Frenchman, I drove out to the far-famed Giant's C^ausev/ay on a jaunting-car. 'J'he wonders of the Causeway, with its pillars so re- markal)iy fitted together, the stately amphitheatre, and the beautiful caves, have been too often })ictpred to allow me to intlicc, upon the reader another descjiptiou. At Belfast I airived just in tlie nick of time to catch the steamer " Rathlin," bound for Waterford, 220 miles. BEWITCHING KATE KEARNEY. This journey on St. George's Channel was a memorable one for me. I was hopelessly sea-sick the whole way. The chops of the channel make a nasty, uneven, lumpy, not- to-be- dependeJ.-on sea. I was miserable and home- sick. Some one, in describing his feelings under similar circumstances, as the malady progressed, said, with ex- [)ressive and truthful brevity, " At first I was afraid I would die, and then I wtis afraid I wouldn't." Waterford is a poverty-stricken looking place, fearfully behind the age. It has a fine harbour, and is surrounded by a coimtry unsurpassed for fertility, but for some reason aj)pears to be at present under the same blight as the greater i)ortion of the South of Ireland. From Waterford T crossed over the south country to the Lakes of Killarney. Thousands of acres of land on each side of the railway are entirely uncultivated. The hedges are out of repair, and only a few stray sheep and cattle are seen grazinor in the meadows. The mud cabins give one the impression that the finances of the occupants nmst be at a low ebb. At Killarney I put up at the Railway Hotel, and was fortunate in meeting a party of jovial young Welshmen, who were out on the same errand as myself. Our party in a large carriage drove around the Low^er Lake to the Gap of Dunloe. At Kate Kearney's cottage we alighted and engaged saddle-horses to ride through the Gap, a distance of over four miles. This cottage is named after a celebrated Irish peasant girl of great beauty, who resided here in days of yore — " Oh ! have you not heard of Kate Kearney, She lives on the banks of Killarney ; From the glance of her eye shun danger and fly For fatal'H the glance of Kate K„aii:ey. Oh ! should you e'er meet this Kate Kearney, Who lives on the banks of Killarney, Beware of her emile., for many a wile Lies hid in the smil? of Kate Kearney — Though she looks so bewitehingly simple, There's mischief in evei-y dimple ;" &c., &c. w m 1 1 1 f 74 IRELAND. There is an easy-going raciness and simplicity about these lines which is thoroughly Irish. The horses in this neighbourhood are proverbially lazy, and are called by the guides " Game-cocks." I couldn't understand the reason of this, and asked for an explana- tion. A genuine Paddy, in a rich brogue, replied, "Shure, sur, its bekase the divils \vould rather die than run." The Gap is a wild mountain gorge, and none of the party will ever forget our ride through it. From the first we were besieged by a crowd of women and girls, who insisted upon our drinking a mixture of goat's milk and mountain-dew. They carried a bottle of each under their arms, and it was amusing to listen to the arguments they advanced why we should imbibe a " dhrap of the craythur." They were all barefooted, and wore no head covering. One of the girls, aged sixteen, named Eily O'Connor, the Colleen Bawn, was a genuine beauty. I had a long talk with her on the road, and was impressed with her in- telligence. She said that the girls usually got married when between eighteen and twenty years of age, but always had to supply the fortuve, which means thirty- five shillings to pay for the priest's services. I'he Pass lies between the Purple Mountain and Mac- gillicuddy's Reeks, and contain^ some grand and pic- turesque scenery. Notwithstanding the love of ease, which is the chief feature in the character of the " game-cocks," we succeed- ed by dint of an immense amount of bullying in making them gallop at a rattling pace tor a part of the distance. The girls took short cuts and kept up with us. This canter in the pure mountain air was glorious. At the end of the Gap we met two girls, about fourteen years of age. They must have been relatives of " Be- witching Kate Kearney." All remarked afterwards upon their great beauty. Although e^^o engaged in the " busy hum of commerce," they were exceedingly modest, and did •i^j.^mm.SSMn 6LARKt:V CASTLE. 75 not unduly press us to buy their wares. One was a second edition of Mrs. Langtry, the other was a brunette. Our boat met us at the head of the Upper Lake, and conveyed us back through the middle and lower lakes to Ross Castle. Near Tore we shot the rapids flowing under the Old Weir bridge. It was quite exciting, and reminded me in a mild way of adventures on Canadian rivers. The Lakes are beautiful, in some respects more so than Windermere. That same evenir;g, our whole party of seven left Kil- larney — six returning to England by way of Dublin and Holyhead, and one going down to Blarney (Jastle. The next morning, at eight o'clock, the weekly boat was to sail from Cork to Bristol, so my object was to kiss the Blarney Stone and then catch the Ijoat. What was my consternation to find out from the con- stable at Blaniey station, at 9.30 p.m., the following obstacles : that the village was a mile distant ; that there was no hotel there, but there was a Mrs. Smith, who might take compassion and give me a night's lodging ; that although only five miles from Cork, there was no jaunting- car or other means to get into Cork to catch the steamer, and no train left before 9.30 a.m. ; that the next day (Tuesday) wasn't a visiting day at the castle, and visitoi-s were, under no circumstances, allowed into the grounds except on Mondays and Fridays. These little facts were rather a damper. However, I walked with the constable, who had just been relieved from his duty, through a dark, lonely road into the little hamlet. Here I found Mrs. Smith a regular trump. She made up a bed in her parlour, and gave me a nice cup of tea and some poached eggs on toast. I mentioned my desire to see the castle early next morning, but she feared it was impossible. After supper I called on the woman at the lodge gate, and stated my case. After a long parley, she promised to admit me at dawn the following morning in consideration of my not mentioning to " a sowl" how 1 got in. ■m ,' I 70 IRELAND. Shortly after six the next morning 1 was at the gate. The gardeners and labourers were not yet astir. Every- thing worked like a charm. I got into the old castle and kissed the far-famed stone. It is awkwardly situated at a great height from the ground, and the kissing of it is really quite dangerous without the presence of a companion to hold one's legs. However, it is one of the most famous spots in Ireland, and is visited by thousands upon thousands of travellers. No one ought to be a hardy enough sce[)tic to doubt its virtues, which are enumerated in the following lines : " There is a Ktone there, that whoever kisses, Oh ! he never misses to grow ihxpient ; A cliver spoiiter, lie'll sure turn out, or An out-and-outer, to he let alone ! Don't ljoi>e to hinder him, or to bewihler liim, Sure he's a pilgrim from the Blarney Stone." Ladies seldom kiss the original owing to the real dith- culty and danger in getting down to it ; but one girl seems to have actec^ very sensibly, as T noticed on the wall in a lady's handwriting, " did not kiss tlie stone, but kissed a fellow that iiad," THE FAK-FAMEU BLARNEY CASTLE. BRUSSELS AND THE FIELD OF WATERLOO— THE LION MOUND- SERGEANT-MAJOR COTTON— THE DUCHESS OF RICHMOND'S BALL. Brussels, Belgium, September, LSTO. le 3rd inst., at three p.m., I leiu the St. Kather- ines Docks, near London Bridge, on the steamer " Swallow," bound for Ostend. The amount of ship- ping from every nation and clime on the face of the earth which is to be seen for the first three or four miles below London Bridge, on the Thames, is a thing which nmst be seen to be properly understood. Mile after mile of masts, flags, rigging, smoke-funnels and sails ; while loading and unloading the merchandise are swarms of deck labourers and sailors, a great proportion of the latter being foreigners. The East and West India Docks alone are a great sight. At one wharf they would be busy un- loading a cargo of elephants' tusks from Hiiidostan and Africa, while a little further on could l)e seen a ship laden with seals and oil from Greenland. From eveiy (piarter of the globe the inhabitants send their produce to this vrorld's market. After an exceedingly interesting sail down the Thames, past Greenwich, Woolwich, Margate, etc., we steamed past the North Foreland Light out into the English Chan- nel. This usually rough piece of water was quite calm. The night was beautiful and the moon full. On every side at the wide mouth of the river were numbers of ii| i I \^ I 78 FELGIUM. light-ships on which hung different coloured lamps. I made an easy chair out of a sail on deck, and sat there for a couple of hours revelling in the delightful scene, and brushing up my French with a young German who spoke excellent Parisian. At three a.m. of the 4th inst. we docked at Ostend. This is a fashionable Belgian watering-i)lace, and is said to have more than twelve thousand visitors annually. The swell promenade is the Digue, which is a massive wall built along the shore to keep the ocean at bay. The town being lower than the sea, if this wall were to give way it would play hob generally with the natives. The beach was well crowded with bathers and bathing ma- chines — the latter four hundred in number. I thought it would be as well to do in Rome as Rome does, so I hired a machine (one franc), went in for a bathe, and had a glorious swim. There were large numbers of children on the shore, who amused themselves with small red- handled spades, with which they dug entrenchments and built forts and cannons, which were duly attacked and captured by an armed body of little girls. Several pretty young ladies about ten years of age were being buried in the sand, all except their heads, by a crowd of admiring youths, who adopted this method of showing their devo- tion. Human nature was the same here as everywhere else — I did not notice a single ugly little girl being buried. In the afternoon I left for Bruges, and laid over a couple of hours to see the old city. In the fifteenth century this place was the most important commercial city in Europe ; it was the London of the trading world, and the Paris of gaiety and fashion; now, however, its cosily canals and its streets, with elaborately-carved and finished houses, are almost desei-ted. I wondered, while walking along the banks of the canal, if a student tourist like my- self would ever stroll along Cheapside and be pointed out by a chattering old guide a heap of rubbish and broken USEFUL DOGS IN BRUSSELS. 79 m pillars, where once stood the stately Bank of England, the most powerful financial institution of its time. Such has happened to Babylon and Homo, and such, I sup[)ose, will be the fate of grand Old London. The same night I came on to Brussels, where I now am. Belgium is a thrifty little kingdom, and its capital is second only to Paris for the beauty of its shops and boulevards, and the gay, thoughtless, cafd life led by its people. The present King, Leopold IL, is, I believe, popular with his subjects. I had the pleasure of seeing him on Friday as he was alighting from his carriage in front of his palace ; he is a fine, large, handsome fellow, and looks quite the ruler of men. As he is the cousin of Queen Victoria, I regarded him with a little more respect than an ordinary foreign prince. The Belgians are usually very small men, and the poorer classes wear huge boots made out of a solid piece of wood, not laced or tied on in any way, so their heels flip-flap every time they step. The shoes are so fearfully out of proportion to the size of their owners, that I did not blame the fellow who called after a Belgian dwarf, "Boots, where are you going with the man?" This is the first place that I ever saw dogs put to prac- tical use. It is quite common in the streets to see large dogs, which are apparently of a sort of mastiff breed, regularly harnessed up to a bread- waggon, an ice-cream saloon, or a costermonger's cart ; they seem to perform their duties quite as conscientiously as an English pony. Yesterday I joined a party of three Englishmen and went out to the field of Waterloo. This place is every summer visited by many thousands of all nations, with the exception of the French, who do not entertain pleas- ant recollections of the little dispute which occurred on this spot on the 18th June, 1815. On the battle-field, near to the British position, is the Lion Mound, a pile of earth 200 feet high, surmounted by a monument and ferocious-looking lion. It is common to hear it abused as an unsightly affair, and a disgrace to commemorate so 80 II i*^ m ii IJKLOIUM. ffieat an event as WaterJor, t THE HON MOIJliiTTrirTi^r ■" 'ng up a bitter feelino- ,,„, " "•""'^"''■ not necemny te "l^C TT J^'™''^ ^"'1 Britain it i a the base „f tl.e lio„ f^ 1' f "" '"P »'' the cone proceeded fco R ^' "'''*'^^'' ''^'i^^ at them !" "f. 7 '"^"^- [eene f' SSHj^^tt^'"^^-'' -'■■^' - ^: by the handful of British f?^' ^ "^^^ "^^e^ surrendenv? TllK MArrLK OF WATERLOO. 81 which, however, I might remark, is not worth a rush on }i military (|iie.sti()n, is that Wellington does not deserve so nmch credit as he has received. He commanded men who had the stnfF in them to resist the attacks of the French, and many military authorities think he would have been beaten had it not been for the timely arrival of Blucher. There was an English soldier named Sergeant-Major Cotton, who took his humble part in the battle, perhaps in the commissariat department ; however, his niece now keeps a hotel near the Lion Mound, and is continually talking about " my uncle, the Hergeant-Major." She is well known at Brussels, as she advertises extensively. The impression on the mind of the averagt; Belgian is somewhat confused as to who is entitled to the glory of having led the allied forces at Waterlo(j, whether it was Wellington or Sergeant-Major Cotton. The majority, I think, pin their faith to the sergeant as being tlie more probable. Brussels is a place of 384,000 population, including the suburbs, and is a much brighter and nxjre beautiful city than London. On the boulevards, streets, and avenues, the sidewalks and part of the road itself are, in many cases, thickly studded with small tables and chairs, at which are seated crowds of light-hearted, laughing people, drinking lager and light wines. The cafds, restaurants and estaminets are all wide open, and apparently have no doors or windows. The language spoken is French, ex- cept amongst the very lowest classes, who speak the real old Flemi.sh. There are several places in Brussels which are well worth describing, but it would take too long. I inight say, however, that the gayest day at this brilliant capital is Sunday ; then everything is in full swing — dancing, drinking and smoking all day long. I have seen the house in which the Duchess of Rich- mond gave her now famous ball on the eve of the battle of Waterloo. F ** '!: 82 BELGtuM. The lines in Byron's Cliilde Harold describing it are stirring : ** There was a sound of revelry by night, And lielgiunt's cnpital had gathurM then iler Beauty and her Chivahy, and bright The lamps shone o'er fair women and brave men ; A thousand hearts beat happily ; and when Music arose with its voluptuous swell, Soft eyes look'd love to eyes which spake again, And all went merry as a marriage bell ; But hush ! hark ! a deep sound strikes like a rising knell ! ******* And nearer, clearer, deadlier than before ! Arm ! Arm ! it is — it is — the cannon's opening roar! " The fact of such numbers of British officers leaving the joyous assembly and proceeding directly to the battle- field, fatal to so many of them, makes this ball quite a tragic event in history. LlANP A TOURIST'S VIKW OF THE PEOPLK, THEIR JUSTOMS AND TIIKIR COUNTRY — AMSTERDAM, THE VENICE OF THE NORTH — THE HOLLANDERS— THEIR DYKES AND WIND-MILLS. Amsterdam, Holland, September, 1879. , F ever there was a little kinf;doru wliich deserved credit for making the utmost of its opportunities, that place is Holland. It enjoys the reputation of being the lowest country in the woild, the greater part lying many feet below the level of the sea, but with praiseworthy energy the i>eople have built huge dykes along their coast, and thus are enal)led to live in a state of partial security and keep the much-dreaded ocean at bay. The entire kingdom is intersected with canals; they are almost as common as fences in America ; in fact, that is one of the uses to which they are put, as there is no other dividing line between the farms ; but the most remarkable feature of a Dutch landscape is the great number of wind-mills to be seen dotting the farms in every direction. The frugal peasantry make this economical servant do an immense amount of drudgery. Its principal duty is to drain the land by almost continually pumping the surface water from the low soil into tlie adjacent canal, whence it is conveyed to, and at low tide emptied into, the sea. In the intervals, when not on draining duty, the mill grinds the corn and cuts the wood. I would not be nuich surprised to hear that it also split and carried in the kindling. r^y '^'^-'' ^V. ^ ^\^^%^. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) y // y ^ w/L/.s 1.0 I.I 1.25 *"liM HJM '^ IM !iiZ2 IIM 2.0 ;ii 1.4 1.8 1.6 h" % A "1 \>^^ ."V d? / Photographic Sciences Corporation ^^ 4^ o '^ ^^v %" 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. M580 (716) 872-4503 %^ ,% ^. w- Wr I I 1 ! M 84 HOLLAND. Although tlie Belgians aud the Dutch have at different periods of their history been united as one people, there IS a marked distinction between the two nations. The former, especially those residing at Brussels, greatly re- semble their southern neighbours, the French, in vivacity and intelligence, but the Hollander is a different being. He drinks heavy beer, tills the soil to perfection, while his face never loses a stolid expression, and he is usually very foggy in comprehending and answering inquiries. In Belgium, the language spoken everywhere except amongst the lowest classes is French, and any person who has the slightest pretensions to education will know enough of English and German to converse a little ; Vjut in Holland, except amongst the well-educated, nothing is heard but Dutch, and very guttural and harsh it is. I have, however, observed that a large number of the words sound much like English, and that by simply adding scJte or ein to an English word, throwing an immense amount of emphasis on the last syllable, and gesticulating with energy, one can sometimes make himself understood. After having visited the ])rinci|)al picture-galleries in England, Ireland, and Scotland, I came to the continent with a strong prejudice in favour of modern painters, such as Dord, Millais, Landseer and Maclise, and against the old masters. This was caused by the fact that most of the specimens of ancient art in the British collections, although beautiful in colour, are stiff and unnatural in design. The real masterpieces are securely guarded in the continental galleries. At the Antwerp Notre Dame Cathedral, I was first awakened to a proper aj)preciation of the art of foriner days by seeing Rubens' two cele- brated pictures, " The Descent from the Cross," and " The Elevation c)f the Cross." The natural ap}>earance and in- tensity of sadness thrown by the prince of Flemish paint- ers into these two pictures is marvellous. Another grand picture by the same artist, and I think his chef d'wuvre, is " Christ Crucified between the Two Thieves," in which AN EXTRvNOIlDINARY PAINTER. 85 the figures stanrl out almost as if alive, and the terrible scene is depicted with rare power. In passing through the Antwerp Museum,! witnessed a most remarkable sight. Seated in front of and copying Van Dyck's well-known " Christ on the Cross," was Carolus Felu, a painter of some note in Belgium. He was born without either hands or arms, and does (ill his painting by holding the brush be- tween the toes of his right foot. He has a particularly I)leasant voice and manner. I talked to him for about ten minutes. He is an enthusiast in his art, and a devoted idolater and follower of Rubens. Since then 1 have seen the masterpieces of Rembrandt, Quentin Matsys, Jordeans and Teniers, and am now thoroughly converted into what it is, I believe, the correct thing to be, an humble admirer of the masterly genius of the painters of the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries. Belgium, in common with some other continental na- tions, has adopted the decimal currency, but have reduced it to a much finer point than the American system. Shortly after arriving at Ostend, I went into a sliop and asked the price of a photographic view of the Digue, It was ninety centimes. Not understanding the currency of the country, 1 thought that to pay ninety of any sort of coin for a small photograph was ratlier steep. However, upon consulting a coin table, I found there was a good deal of smoke without much fire ; it was only eigliteen cents of Canadian money, and this was a reasonable price for the view. The Holland coins are guildei-s, stivers and cents, one of the latter being e(pial to two Belgian centimes. Aniongst the poorer classes the women are scrujMilously neat in their attire, usually wearing short dresses oi light- coloured cotton. Their liead-covering is very peculiar. It consists of a sort of helmet, made of brass or tin ; from its cOxAx .a ;»t the right and left temple hang down silver or gold pendants of heavy wire, twisted into various shapes — in some cases I have seen them four or five inche?} 80 HOLLAND. Mi ! lonf( — this is all covered with a lace cap, ti tout ensemble having a rather uni((ueefl[ect. T was a good deal amused at first to see the amount of toliacco-smoking which the natives of Belgium and Hol- land are able to accom})lish. They must commence early in life, as I have seen ^Ntel&^ ^^y*^ ^^^ ^^"^^ "?* have l)een over six years of age walking along the main tho- roughfares quietly puffing away at a long clay pipe, and no person seems to notice it or see any ^ thing uncommon in ^*"3:;- what Canadians would think was a clear case of juve- nile depravity. This excessive indulgence in the use of tobacco may be the cause of the men being so dwarfish in stature. Amsterdam is a splendid old city of 300,000 popula- tion ; all the houses are built on piles. It is divided by the canals into ninety islands, reached by 300 bridges. The river Y runs through the centre of the town. If it ordy had a Doge, a Bridge of Sighs, and some kingly old palaces, Amsterdam would be a second Venice. HTHEET SCENE IN AMSTERIJAM. JS THE D.VNKS -A VISIT TO THEIK CAPITAT-—KOYAL DAlMlUTKHS—THK 8HUINK "K THOHVAI.DSEN PRESIDING GENII OF MANY CITIES (iREATKST SCll.rTOR OF .M<)I)EI{N TIMES HIS Ml SECM. CoPKNHAfJKN, DkNMARK, Sept., 1