*? fatlioms, and there is rmly one
indid'eri'nt anchoraj^e, Hatlle Hay, just within tiie entraiKre, on the West Ki<|e.
The I iitrance lies West of the iJarrier Ixiands, is a mile wide in the narrowest
part, and the soundinf^s in it vary from 14 to 1H fatbote
Clam hlft, at thout 40 ft. high ; foul ground exists among them. Shelter
hhniil, just within the entrance of the inlet on its South side, is about half a
iinle in extent, 300 ft. high, with a summit at each end covered with a few
stunted trees. The anchorage on its East side is about a third of a mile in
extent, with from 10 tO' 13 fathoms, well sheltered, but the bottom is irregular.
The entrance to it, round the N.E. side of the island, is less than a cable wide
in the narrowest part.
Between Shelter Island and the North entrance point of the inlet is a heavy
confused sea, which would be dangerous for sailing vessels, as the wind gene-
rally fails there.
Entering the anchorage on the East side of Shelter Island, do not bring Cape
Cook to the southward of S.E. by S. J S., till Li-ading Cone, a remarkable
stiTDviit at the head of the inlet, about 500 high, comes in line with Small Islet
on the North side of the entrance, bearing N.E. by E. J E., which mark will
lead into the inlet well North of Gierke Reefs and Surge Islets. When abreast
the latter, haul a little to the eastward, so as to enter midway between Small
Islet and Shelter Island ; pass Mithin a cable East of the bare islet off the
hitter's N.li. poiiit, and anchor in 13 fathoms, Avith the extremes of Shelter
Island bearing N.W. by W. i W. and S.W. i W.
The entrance of tlus anchorage is intricate and narrow ; and unless unavoid-
ably necessary, no vessel larger than a coaster should attempt it, as a furious
sea rages all around the outer parts.
Ship Rock, lying nearly 8 miles N. by W. of Cape Cook, 2 miles off the
shore in the centre of Brooks Bay, and midway between Klaskish and
Klaskino Inlets, is of small extent, and hn^ from 17 to 20 fathoms close on \U
South and East sides. The sea generally breaks very heavily over it. Small
Islet in line with Leading Cone, N.E, by E. J E., leads three-quarters of a
mile southward of it.
KLASKINO INLET, the entrance to which is in the North part of Brooks
Bay, and 10 miles N. jj W. from Cape Cook, is nearly (5 miles long in a winding
direction to the E.N.E. There are numerous rocks off the entrance, but a safe
though intricate passage through them ; and there is also a good anchorage on
BROOKS HAY— KLASKINO INLKT.
445
the Roiilh side, 2 miles within the inlet. Tlie soundings vary from 12 to 40
fathoms, increasing gradually inside, which becomes narrow, with high and
rocky shores, terminating in low land at the head.
Noh Point, the South entrance point of the inlet, is rocky, and covered with
a few stunted trees ; some rocks extend 3 or 4 cables ofT it, and close to its
outer part is a rocky nob about 100 ft. high. Anchorcuje Island, in the middle
of the inlet, about 2 miles within the entrance, is of small extent, and rocky.
The anchorage or harbour is between the East side of this island and the shore ;
it is well sheltcroc; Inside Anchorage Island some rocks extend nearly across
the inlet, rendering; it almost impossible for a vessel to go beyond them.
lied Stripe Mountain, rising on the North side of the entrance, abreast
Anchorage Island, is a remarkable conical-shaped summit, 2,200 ft. high, widi
a valley on either side of it. On its Sotith part, facing seaward, is a conspicuous
red cliffy stripe or landslip, easily distinguished from the outside ; the lower
part of it in line with Twenty-feet Hock, bearing N.IC. by N. { N., K'ads into
the entrance South of Channel Keefs, and nearly 2 miles N.W. of Ship
Itock.
Twenty-feet Rock, 4 cables W.N.W. of Nob Point, is bare, and 20 ft. above
high water. It is conspicuous from the outside. The only channid into the
inlet is to the westward of the rock, between it and Oliannel Ecefs.
Channel Reefs, the S.I'l. part of which is 3J cables AV. by S. of Twenty-feet
Uock, are an irregular cluster of rocks, mostly under water, extending in a
westerly direction to the N.W. shore of Ih'ooks Bay. There is deep water
between them in many places, but the only safe pas.sage into Klaskino Inlet is
upwards of 3 cables wide, with deep water between their S.E. part and Twenty-
feet Rock.
If obliged to enter Klaskino Inlet, when outside Ship Rock, bring Twenty-
feet Rock in line with the lower part of the red stripe on Red Stripe Moimtiiin,
bearing N.E. by N. \ N., and run boldly for the cntraTice with that mark on,
which will lead 2 J cables South of Channel Reefs; keep on this course till
within 2 cables of Twenty-feet Rock, when haul a little to the northward, and
])ass it on its North side at a cable's distance, after which steer about N.E. by
Vj. J E. for the centre or South jiart of Anchorage Island, passing a cable or
so North of the rocks oH' the South side of the inlet. AVhen abreast the S.W.
point of the island, haul (juickly to the eastward, round the rocks off its S.l-l.
point within half a cable, and anchor in from 9 to 10 fathoms, midway between
the East side of the island and the main, with ihe extremes of the former bear-
ing N.W. and S.W. by W. A large vessel should moor.
The entrance to Klaskino anchorage is even more intricate than that of
Klaskish, and should not be attempted by a stranger unless absolutely necessary
for safety. Eresh water may be j)rocurcd in both these anchorages.
At 3 miles from Klaskino, in the N.W, part of Rrooks Bay, is a largo rivulet
where boats may enter and find shelter in bad weather.
.,iv
lii
', i
•U6
VANCOUVER ISLAND.
LAWN POINT, the N.W. extreme of Brooks Bay, lies 12 miles N.W. by N.
from Cape Cook ; it is low, and some rocks extend more than half a mile in an
easterly direction from it, inside of which a boat may find shelter. The sea
breaks violently about this point, and everywhere along the shores of Brooks
Bay. The land in the vicinity of Lawn Point appears very fertile, and lightly
timbered ; it rises gradually from the sea to a height of 1,900 ft.
QTJATSINO SOUND, the north-westernmost of the deep inlets on the outer
coast of Vancouver Island, is an extensive arm of the sea, which penetrates the
island in a north-easterly direction for upwards of 25 miles. The breadth at
the entrance is r.oarly 6 miles, narrowing to less than a mile at a distance of 5
miles within ; the sound then runs in a north-easterly direction, nearly straight
for 13 miles, when it branches ofif in two arms, one extending to the S.E. for
12 miles, and terminating in low land. The other arm lies to the northward
of, and is connected with, the sound by a straight narrow |u4jd about 2 miles
long ; its length is 22 miles in an East and West direction, and the eastern
extreme, Ilupert Arm, is only 6 miles distant from Hardy Bay, on the N.E.
side of Vancouver Island. The western part terminates within 12 miles of San
Josef Bay on the outer coast. Just within the entrance of the sound, on the
North side, is Forward Inlet, a much smaller arm, about 6 miles long in a
northerly direction, in which are the best anchorages of the sound.
The shores of Quatsino Sound are generally high, and near the entrance
very much broken, with many good sheltered anchorages. There are several
islands within and along its shores, but they are mostly small.
From the outside the entrance of Quatsino Sound presents several remark-
able features, which render it easy to be made out. Along the South side of
the entrance are several rocks and small islands ; on both sides of, and within
the sound the land is high, and some of the summits are very conspicuous,
among others the Flat-top and Entrance Mountains to the northward of the
entrance, and the Nose Peak and Gap Mountains inside. Nose Peak being
easily distinguished from its sharp rocky summit.
The soundings in the entrance, and from 3 to 5 miles outside, vary from
30 to 70 fathoms, but within they deepen in many places to upwards of 100
fathoms. There are several dangers along the South shore at the entrance.
In the fairway are two very dangerous rocks, which only break in heavy
weather, and it requires great caution on the part of the navigator to avoid
them, when entering or leaving the sound.
It is high water in Quatsino Sound, on full and change, at ll*", the rise and
fall of tide being about 1 1 feet.
Reef Point, the S.E. entrance point of the sound, is 14 miles N.W. by N.
from Cape Cook, and IJ mile from Lawn Point, the N.W. extreme of Brooks
Bay. It is low and rocky, but rises gradually to a well-defined summit,
1,901 ft. above the sea. The coast between it and Lawn Point forms a slight
bay, filled with a number of rocks extending to a considerable distance oil'
I
J*
QUATSINO SOUND— FOinVARD INLET.
447
shore. Boat River, which runs into a small bight on the South shore of tho
sound, 5^ miles within Reef Point, is merely a small stream which a boat can
enter.
Bold Bluff, 7 miles North of Reef Point, on the South side of the sound, is,
as its name implies, a bold, rocky salient bluff, rising suddenly to upwards of
200 ft., when it slopes gradually to a summit, upwards of 1,G00 ft. high; it
may be safely approached to a cable. At this spot the sound contracts in
breadth to less than a mile.
Surf Islands, upwards of a mile S.S.W. of Bold Bluff, and 3 miles within
the entrance of the sound, are a chain of small islands, about 1 mile long in a
N.W. and S.E. direction, some of which are covered with a few stunted trees,
and are about 40 ft. above high water ; a short distance from them are a
number of breaking rocks, but at 3 cables from their South and West sides
there is from 10 to 30 ftithoms.
Entrance Island, .5 J miles N.W. JN. from Reef Point, at the N.W. entrance
point of the sound, is small and rocky, about 140 ft. high, and covered with a
few stunted trees. It is steep-to on its S.E. side.
Danger Bocks, a mile within the entrance, nearly in the fairway, are two
very dangerous pinnaclb rocks, of small extent, and steep-to on all sides ; as
they very seldom break, great caution is required, on entering or leaving the
sound, to avoid them. The North Danger lies 7 cables E.N.E. from Entrance
Island, and breaks at low water. The South Danger is half a mile S.E. of the
North rock, and is awash at low water spring tides ; there is deep water
between them. Between Danger Rocks and Surf Islands, the passage is IJ
mile wide, and clear of danger.
Pinnacle Islet in one with the East point of Low Islands, N.W. by N. \ N.,
leads midway between North Danger Rock and Entrance Island; Robson
Islet open North of Entrance Mount Point, N.W. by W. J W., leads 3 to 4
cables East of the rocks ; Village Islet just touching Brown Point, N.AV., leads
midway between them and Surf Islands ; Bedwell Islets, within the sound on
the North side, open North of Bold Bluff, bearing N.E., leads one-quarter of a
mile northward of North Danger Rock ; and Bold Bluff in line with the gap in
the centre of Surf Islands, bearing N. by E. J E., leads nearly a mile S.E. of
the South Danger.
FORWARD INLET, on the North side of the sound 1 mile within the
entrance, is about 6 miles long, first taking a north-westerly direction for 2
miles from its outer part, then turning to the N.N.E. for 4 miles, and con-
tracting in breadth ; it becomes shoal at the head, and terminates in large
salt-water lagoons. There are two anehortiges within it, North and Winter
Harbours, the iormer easy of access to sailing vessels ; both are very secure,
and well sheltered.
Entrance and Flai-toj) Mountains, on the West side of the inlet near the
entrance, are very ec.nspieuous objects from seaward ; the former is 1,275 and
mii\^
1
448
VANCOUVER ISLAND.
!i!i
*i I
II'
BIS! ,
Ji
1^
$
ii
the latter nonrly 1,000 ft. high. Pinnacle Islet, three-quarters of a mile north-
ward of Kntraiicc Island, at the S.W. entrance point to Forward Inlet, is a
small jagged roek about 40 ft. high, with a few trees on its summit.
Low Islets are three small wooded islets on the S.W. side of Forward Inlet,
nearly a mile within the entrance. Rohson Island, in the bend of Forward
Inlet on the West side, 1^ mile from Pinnacle Islet, and half a mile north-
ward of Low Islets, is about half a mile in extent, and 38.5 ft. high ; its shores
are rocky, but at a distance of a cable free of danger on the North and East
sides. A small village stands on the East side of Forward Inlet, abreast Robson
Island, and close off it is Vilhiyc Islet, a small bare islet about 40 ft. high,
which is rather conspicuous.
Bare Islet, lying 1 J cable off the shore, at a short distance eastward of the
N.E. entrance point to the inlet, is about 1 2 ft. high, and steep-to on the outside.
Burnt Hill, 1,095 ft. high, just over the N.E. entrance point of Forward Inlet,
is remarkable from the southward, being bare of trees and cliffy on its South
side ; at 1 mile N.E. of it is another conspicuous summit, named Nose Peak,
1,730 ft. high, with a bare rocky top.
North Harbour, which lies to the N.W. of Robson Island, in a bight on
the West side of Forward Inlet, is a snug and secure anchorage, about 4
cables in extent, with from 4 to 6 fathoms. The entrance is 3 cables wide,
rendering the hai'bour easy of access to sailing vessels ; it is perhaps the best
anchorage within the sound, and from being only 4 miles within the entrance
is very convenient. Browning Creek, in its western part, is IJ mile long, but
very narrow, with from 2 to 5 fathoms water, and terminates in a shallow basin,
dry at low water.
Observatory Islet, which lies on the North side of the entrance to the har-
bour, is a small bare rock, connected at low wc.ter to the main ; in lat.
50° 29' 25" N., long. 128° 3' 39" W.
Winter Harbour comprises that part of Forward Inlet which runs in a
N.N.E. direction, and is a capacious anchorage with from 8 to 11 fathoms.
Its shores are low, and bordered by a sandy beach, and the harbour becomes
shoal at a distance of a mile from the head ; its breadth varies from 2 to 6
cables.
Log Point, just outside the entrance of this harbour on the East side, is
low, and bordered by a sandy beach ; to the southward of it, and extending
4 cables off shore, is New Bank, with Z^ fathoms on the shoalcst part, and
contracting the breadth of the entrance passage to the harbour to less than a
cable ; but by keeping a little over to the West side when abreast North
Harbour, a vessel of the largest size may avoid this bank, and enter Winter
Harbour without danger.
Pilley Shoal, of 3 fathoms, on the North side of the sound, is of small
extent, steep-to on the outside, and marked by kelp. It lies 1^ cable offshore,
and 1 mile West from Bold Bluff.
. il
'HI
QUATRIXO SOrXD— HECATE COVE.
449
4
Dedwell hlets, lying 3i miles within the cntrnnoe, off a projecting point on
the North side of the sound, nre of small extent, wooded, and separated from
the shore by a very narrow boat pass, which is CDnspicuous from the entrance;
at 3 cables N.E. of them is Mondai/ 6'hual, with 1 fathoms, which is marked
by kelp, and steep-to on tlie outside.
Koprino Harbour, 8 miles within the entrance, in the centre of a bay on
the North side of the sound, is a perfectly landlocked but small anchorage,
affording njom for one or two ships to lie moored within. It lies to the north-
ward of Plumper Inland, which is about half a mile in extent, low, wooded,
and steep-to on all sides, there being a good passage on either side of it into
the harbour.
Dockyard Island, in the West part of the harbour, midway between
Plumper Island and the North shore, is small, but may be approached close to ;
there is good anchorage 1 cable South of it, in 14 fathoms. M'cdye Island
lies at the eastern limit of the anchorage, about 1 cable North of Plumper
Island ; there is a deep passage close to on either side of it into the harbour.
Olservation Islet, at the N.E. extreme of the harbour, is bare, and about 12 ft.
high; !at. 50° 30' N., long. 127° 52' 16" W.
East Passage leads into Koprino Harbour, eastward of Plumper Island. It
is half a mile wide at the entrance, and is clear of danger. Prideaux Point,
the East entrance point of East Passage, is low, and bordered by a sandy
beach.
The North shore of Quatsino Sound from Prideaux Point takes a general
north-easterly direction for 9 miles to Coffin Islet, at the trance of llecafo
Cove. From Bold Bluff the South shore of the sound runs nearly parallel to
the northern one for 13 miles in a north-easterly direction. It is high, and
indented by two bays of considerable size, and some small creeks, none of
which afford anchorage.
Limestone Island, 15 miles within the entrance, and in the centre of the
sound, is the largest island in the sound, nearly 3 miles long, and about three-
quarters of a mile wide in the broadest i)art. Its shores are rocky, but clear
of danger, and the islaiul is of moderate height.
South-East Arm, the entrance of which is a mile East of Limestone
Island, and 18 miles within the entrance of the sound, is 10 miles long in a
south-easterly direction, and varies in breadth from 3 cables to 1 mile. Its
shores are generally high and rugged, but terminate in low land at the head.
Whitestone Point, at the separation of the two arms at the head of (iuatsino
Sound, is a rocky point of moderate height, and lies three-quarters of a mile
N.E. of Limestone Island, abreast Coffin Islet. Hull Pock, which covers,
and is marked by kelp, lies 3 cables South of it, and 2 cables off shore.
Hecate Cove, on the North shore, about 1 mile N.E. of Coffin Islet, runs in
about two-thirds of a mile in a north-westerly direction, is from 2 to 3 cables
North Pacific. 3 m
>■.. I
"Si
.^.
^
'^/^,
^.
IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)
1.0
I.I
1.25
25
22
12.0
1.1^
U 11.6
6'
Photographic
Sciences
Corporation
#
,\
#
\\
^
V
%
^^
^
23 WEST MAIN STREET
WEBSTER, NY. MSBO
(716) 873-4S03
%
#
1
^
.<^
%s
f
'<>
':
4«0
VANCOUVER ISLAND.
41
I 'i
t
I
wide, and affords good anchorage near the centre in 9 to 1 1 fathom*. Tha
entrance is clear of danger, but in the inner part of the core, near the North
side, are some shoal patches, marked by kelp, with only 1 1 ft. water in some
parts. This cove is convenient for steamers or small oruft. Bound Island,
nearly in mid-channel about a mile ESast of Hecate Cove, and just South of
Quatsino Niirrows, ia small, and of moderate height ; there is a clear passage
between it and the North shore, but the one South of it is filled with rocks.
Qaataino Narrows, 20 miles inside the sound and connecting it with the
Rupert and West Arms, are 2 miles long in a northerly direction ; the shores
are high and rocky, but at half a cable's distance clear of danger. The tide
runs through these narrows at a rate of from 4 to 6 knots, and the streams
turn shortly after high and low water.
Rupert Ann, to the N.K. of Quatsino Narrows, is 5 miles long in a north-
easterly direction, and nearly a mile wide ; its "bores are high and clear of
danger. Its head terminates in low laud, and a bank dries off it for 2 cables.
West Arm trends in a westerly direction nearly 18 miles from the North
part of Quatsino Narrows, and varies in breadth from 2 cables to a mile. Its
shores arc generally high and rocky ; the northern one is indented by several
small bayH. There ure two anchorages, one at Coal Harbour, on the North
side, and the other at the edge cf the bank extending from the head. Coal
Harbour, 2 miles from the narrows, on the North side of West Arm, is of
square shape, from 3 to 4 cables in extent, and affords good anchorage near
the middle in from 12 to 14 fathoms. Indications of coal have been met in its
vicinity.
Directions. — KnterltigCiuitsino Sound from the southward, give Keef Point,
its S.K. entrance point, an offing of about 2 miles, and steer North till Hold
Bluff comes in line with the gap in the centre of Surf Islands, N. by £. j K.,
which mark kept on will lead S.K. of Danger Rocks; when the West side
of Robson Island comes open North of Entrance Mount Point in Forward Inlet
N.W. by W. i W., or Village Islet, on the East side of that inlet, is just
touching Brown Point, bearing N. W., u vessel will be well East of these rocks.
If bound up the sound, round the North end of Surf Islands at a distance of
about half a mile, or if going to Forward Inlet, steer about N.W. by W.,
taking care not to shut in the South side of Ilobson Island with Entrance
Motmt Point, until Bedwell Islets come open North of Bold Bluff, bearing
N.E., when she will be well North of Danger Rocks. Pass from 1 to 2 cables
off the East sides of Low Islets and Robson Island, and rounding the North
point of the latter, at the 3ame distance, enter North Harbour, and anchor in
from 4 to C fathoms near its centre.
If intending to anchor in Winter Harbour, when abreast the North part of
Robson Island, steer N.N.W., keeping well over to the West shore to avoid
New Bank, and when past it enter the harbour in mid-channel, anchoring in
11 fathoms about half a mile North of Grass Point. If bound to Koprino
QUATSINO SOUND.
461
Harbour, which can only b« entered by steamers or sailing Tessels with a fair
wind, round the N.W. point of Surf Islands at about half a mile, and steer
up the sound in mid-channel until abreast the harbour. If in a large vessel,
go through the East psMOge, keeping from 1 to 2 cables off Plumper Island ;
enter the anchorage close-to on either side of Wedge Island, and moor imme-
diately the vessel is West of it, anchors North and South ; a vessel may also
enter by West passage, and anchor in 14 fathoms South of Dockyard Island.
In navigating the sound to the eastward of Koprino Harbour the chart is
the best guide, and a mid-channel course is everywhere free of danger; sailing
vessels of any size should not, however, go eastward of that harbour, as the
anchorages beyond are rather difficult of access for them. If wishing to
anchor in Hecate Cove, enter it in mid-channel, passing North of Limestone
Island, and moor immediately the vessel is inside the entrance points ; the
tide runs from 1 to 3 knots abreast the entrance, and should be guarded
against.
Uoing through the Quatsino Narrows, keep well over to the North shore,
pnss North of Round Island, round Turn Point close-to, and guarding against
tide, steer up the narrows in mid-channel ; these narrows ought only to be
attempted at slack water or with a favourable tide, unless in a full powered
steamer. I'he best anchorage North of the narrows is Coal Harbour, aud if
wishing to go there, a N.W. course for 2 mUes from the narrows will lead to
its entrance, and a vessel may anchor near the cen:re in from 12 to 14 fathoms.
In navigating the West Arm keep well over to the South shore, when in the
vicinity of Pot Bock and Straggling Islands.
Entering Quatsino Sound from the westward, keep an offing of about
2 miles, till Entrance Island bears N.E. or N.E. by N., when steer to pass
about 2 cables East of it, but not further off. When abreast it haul to the
northward, bringing Pinnacle Islet in line with the East side of Low Islets,
bearing N.W. by N. J N., and steer up with that mark on till Bedwcll Islets
come well open North of Bold Bluff, bearing N.E., when enter Forward Inlet,
or proceed further up the sound, as before directed.
If the weather be so thick that the marks for clearing Danger Rocks cannot
well be made out, a vessel, if able to distinguish Entrance Island, may enter
the sound by steering for it on a N. by E. or north-easterly bearing ; pass
close to its East side, and haul to the northward when abreast it ; by keeping
half a mile on that course, she will be well clear N.W. of Danger Bocks, and
may proceed anywhere up the sound. On a clear night in fine weather, a
vessel may also enter in the above manner.
There is room, with a steady breese, for a smart working vessel to beat into
the sound to the southward and eastward of Danger Bocks, though without
previous knowledge of the place it would be rather hazardous to attempt it.
If obliged to do so, when standing to the northward towards Danger Bocks,
tack when Bold Bluff cuuics in line with the centre of the northernmust
Att
VANCOUVER ISLAND.
(wooded) Surf Island, bearing N.E. by N. ^ N. ; and in utanding to the South
■hore, tack when Bold Bluff comes in line with the S.E. extreme of Surf
Islands bearing N. | E. or N. by E. When the South side of Bobson Island
comes open North of Entrance Mount Point, N.W. by W. | W., she will be
eastward of Danger Bocks, and may stand further to the northward.
Beating between Surf Islands and Danger Bocks, tack at about 3 cables off
the former ; and in standing towards the latter, keep Robson Island open oh
before directed, till Bed well Islets come open North of Bold Bluff, N.E.
The Coaat of Vancouver Island from Quatsino Sound to Cape Scott, the
N.W. extreme of the islanl, runs in a general W.N.W. direction about
26 miles; it is generally rocky and iron-bound, indented by several bays,
mostly small, and from the projecting points some rocks extend in parts
nearly a mile off shore. At a distance of 2 miles off there is from 20 to 8U
fathoms, sand and rock, deepening to 100 fathoms at 10 to 11 miles off shore;
to the southward of Scott Islands the lOO-fathoms line does not appear to
extend more than 6 miles from them.
In navigating between Cape Scott and Quatsino Sound, do not approach the
shore nearer than 2 miles.
Sagged Point, 3 miles from the North entrance point of Quatsino Sound, is
a rocky, rugged point of moderate height. Open Bay, which lies just inside
it, affords landing for boats in fine weather on its East side. The coast be-
tween Open Bay and the entrance to Quatsino Sound is high and cliffy ; some
rocks extend nearly a mile off it.
Top-knot Point, 5 miles N.W. of Ragged Point, is low, with a summit 300 ft.
high, shaped like a top-knot, just within it ; some rocks extend half a mile to
the southword from it. Baft Cove, 8 miles from Ragged Point, is an open
bight about a mile in extent, and affords no shelter whatever. Cape Palmer-
ston, 11 miles N.W. from Ragged Point, is a bold, rocky point, rising to u
summit 1,412 ft. high ; some rocks extend hnlf a mile from it.
SAN JOSEF BAT, the entrance to which is 14 miles N.W. from Ragged
Point, and 8 miles S.E. of Cape Scott, is on extensive open bay, 3 miles deep
in a north-easterly direction ; the breadth at the entrance is nearly 2 milev,
narrowing gradually towards the head. Its shores are high, and off the South
side are scvwral off-lying rocks ; the soundings vary from 11 to 4 fathoms, but
the bay affords no shelter whatever, except with northerly winds, and should
only be used as a stopping-place in fine weather. The best anchorugc is near
the centre, in 7 to 9 fathoms.
Sea Otter Coye, just West of 8an Josef Bay, is about a mile long in a
northerly direction, and from 2 to 3 cables wide. There is 5 fathoms in tho
entrance, and from 1 to 3 fathoms inside it, also several rocks ; the shelter
within w very indifferent, and the plnce only fit for a coaster. A cluster of
bare iblets lies off the entrance.
CAPE RUSSELL-CAPE SCOTT.
453
CAPS BV88ELL, 16 miles from Ragged Point, and immediately westward
of Sea Otter Cove, is a remarkable headland 870 ft. high, and the outer part of
a peninsula formed by Sea Otter Cove and a small bay N.W. of it. Some
rocks, which break very heavily, extend nearly a mile South of the cape.
From Cape Russell to Cape Scott the coast, from 600 to 600 ft. high, trends
in a north-westerly direction, and is indented by three open bays, which ore
nearly a mile deep, but afford no shelter whatever.
CAPE SCOTT, the N.W. point or extreme of Vancouver Island, is about
500 ft. high, and connected to the island by a low sandy neck about 1 cable
wide. Some rocks extend West of it for more than half a mile, and there is a
bay on either side of the neck, which would afford anchorage to boats or small
craft in line weather only. Close to its S.W. extreme is a rmall creek among
the rocks, difficult of access, but once within it, boats mny get shelter in
southerly gales. The water being deep close up to the rocks, Cape Scott should
always have a wide berth given to it.
Scott Islands, and the northern and eastern coasts of Vancouver Island, will
be described in the next Chapter.
!i
'. \ I'!
I
1 •
1 'h
] 1
( <^< )
CHAPTER VII.
BRITISH COLUMBIA, ETC.
At the commcnccinent of the preceding Chapter a brief account is given of
the history of the hydrography of Vancouver Island, and incidentally of that
uf the main land adjacent. It will not be necessary to add much to that.
Vancouver's survey was an admirable reconnaissance of the shores of the strait,
which he made known to the world almost for the first time. But its more
important channels and features are now completely represented in the fine
series of charts executed from the surveys made by Capt. O. H. Richards,
assisted by Commander R. C. Mayne, &c., in 1859-65.
In this Chapter will be included an account of the North-east Coast of
Vancouver Island, which, lying on the channel which separates it from the
oontiuent, could not be well described except in connection with that coast.
We follow, therefore, the order in which it is given in the Vancouver Island
Pilot.
The country, as is well known, has only been comparatively recently thrown
open to the world. Prior to 1858, when the British Government resumed
possession of it from the Hudson's Bay Company, only a few posts of fur
traders existed throughout the land ; but in 1857 gold was first discovered
(although long before known to exist by the Hudson's Bay Company's officers),
by some Canadian emigrants, who successfully " prospected " the banks of
the Thompson and Bonaparte Rivers, tributary to the Eraser, and between
March and June, 1858, a rush of gold seekers crowded into the country from
California, and to this day this continues to be the chief object of its com-
merce. In 1 866 it was estimated that there were 6,000 white inhabitants on
the mainland, including 3,000 miners, who produced £600,000 value in gold
dust. The native population, most difficult to estimate, was considered to
amount to 40,000. By the census of 1881 the inhabitants of British Columbia
(including Vancouver and Queen Charlotte's Islands) numbered 49,459, the
area of the country being estimated at 465,978 square miles. The total value
of the gold produced in British Columbia between 1858 and 1882 amounted to
BRITISH COLUMBIA, ETC.
455
•bout £9,337,000. The gold fields are far inland, the principal being that
called the Cariboo.*
There exist within the limits of Brit>h Columbia large depoaita of the pre-
cious and useful metals, many of which have been systematically and profitably
mined for years, while others are only awaiting the development, of which
they are capable, to become a source of great wealth to the Province. The
list is a long one, embracing gold, silver, copper, iron, lead, cinnabar, pla-
tinum, coal, limestone, marble, and salt. — The Wett Shore, September, 1884.
A large portion of the country, especially that near the coast, is unfitted for
colonization, owing to its mountainous character.
The Catcade Range, through which the Fraser and Harrison Rivers find an
outlet to the ocean, is about 60 miles inland, and the Fraser bursts through a
gorge in it at about 15 miles above Yale in a succession of terrific rapids or
canons. This part of the river, and of the wonderful road which has been
constructed along its banks, is graphically described in the admirable book by
Lord Milton and Dr. Cheadlc.f
To the northward of Vancouver Island the coast is the weatcm seaboard of
the districts formerly known under the names of New Hanover and New Corn-
wall. The whole of it is fronted by an immense collection of islands of all
dimensions and forms. Within these is a correspondingly extensive scries of
channels and arms of the sea, forming a most complete chain of inland naviga-
tion, which may be pursued for many degrees to the northward, without
interruption or exposure to the oceanic swell. It is true that in many parts
these canals are too narrow to be very advantageous for sailing vessels to
work through, and are therefore more adapted for steam navigation than by
other modes ; yet the great depth of water, in most parts all but unfathomable,
and the boldness of the shores, make this disadvantage of less importance. One
featui-e adverted to by Vancouver, who has excellently surveyed part of this
inland navigation, and which is remarkable, is, that caution ought to be used
* The excellent Grand Trunk waggon road from Yale (the head of the navigation on the
Fraser Uiver) to the centre of the mining district of Cariboo, a total length of 376 miles,
was completed in 1866, through a country full of engineering difficulties, at an expense of
over £100,000, and is a result of which the young colony might be justly proud.
t In the higher parts of the Fraser, and indeed of all other rivers which flow into it, a
remarkable feature, which extsnds 300 miles, w described in the same work. Along the
aides of the mountains which confine tho river beds are three terraces — or benches as they
are called — perfectly level, and of exactly the same height on each side of the river,
evidently the beaches of some lake in former ages of the world's history. Thu formation
of the canon of the lower Fraser suggested their origin to the travellers. They supposed
that the g^rge through which the river now flows had been partially broken down, perhaps
by some grand convulsion of nature, at three separate intervals, and thus lowered the surface
of the lake, the surf of which had worn the beach it washed to a level strand, to the lower
levels as they now appear. See " The North-vett Pattage bp Land," by Viscount Milton,
and Dr. W. B. Cheadle, 186S, pp. 338-347.
450
BRITISH COLUMDIA, ETC.
■II
I "
!■
I
i:i !:
I
> "I)
I : !
i
in poMing oloao to soniC of the projecting points, for he found that, nciwith-
standing the perpendicularity of the oliffb componing the shores, that a shelf
would sometimes project under water, from the general line of the upper por-
tion, a hct which, if neglected, might lead to serious consequences.
Besides these channels the continent is penetrated with numerous and
peculiar canals, whose characteristics, greatly similar in all cases, will be best
gathered from the ensuing i .iSOiiptions. There are no rivers, or at least none
of importance have been dibvovered. They are mere torrents, fed in summer
by the melting of the snow, and in the winter by the untiring deluges of this
dismal climate. The Nass, the Babine, Skeena, or Skina, and Stikine, are the
only ones that may ascended to any distance, and even these only with con-
siderable difficulty and danger. It has been calculated that the shores of
British Columbia (including Vancouver and Queen Charlotte Islands) have an
extent of over 7,000 miles.
The primary discovery of the country has been before adverted to, and
many of the remarks are as applicable to this as to other portions ; but it arose
from the zeal and perseverance of two intelligent men, who traded hither
under the license of the South Sea Company. These were Capts. Portlock
and Dixon ; they made the principal discoveries on the coast subsequent to
Capt. Cook's visit in his last voyage. Their narratives are, nevertheless, too
diffuse, and abound with too much personal narrative and minutiae to afford
much general information on the country they visited. It was to the excellent
..urveys of Vancouver, in 1792, that we owed the greater part of our first
knowledge of the inland navigation and nautical information of this country,
now supplemented by the survey by Capt. G. H. Richards, R.N., and the
officers under him, in 1859 — 1865, as before mentioned.
Besides Portlock, Dixon, and Vancouver, the Spaniards surveyed a portion,
and their charts fill up the vacancies left by the others ; but of their surveys
we have no verbal description to be of service. In the voyages of Meares,
previously adverted to, there are also some notices of visitors to this coast
during the origin of the fur trade, as before explained, as arising out of the
notice afforded by Capt. Cook. Then Capt. Ingraham visited the S.E. side of
Queen Charlotte Island ; and Capt. Gray, who discovered the Columbia Biver,
first explored it in the Wathinfflon, which name he applied to it.
The Climate of the mainland coast opposite Vancouver Island differs some-
what from that of the S.E. portion of Vancouver Island. In summer the tem-
perature averages slightly higher, and in winter somewhat lower, while the
rainfall is greater immediately along the coast. The lower Fraser Valley
(New Westminster District) does not receive in summer the cold breezes from
the Olympian Mountains which blow across Victoria, nor docs it receive in
winter so much of the genial warmth of the warm ocean air. As a general
thing ice forms on the river for a short time, and snow begins to fall in
January, and continues to do so intermittently till March, the ground not being
1) !il
STRAIT OF GEOEQIA.
4S7
continuously corered with it Obsenrationi for seren conseoutire yeiirs — 1 874
to 1880— at New Westminster, give the highest maximum temperature 92°
in July, and the lowest 7^ in January, the mean annual rainfall being 59.66
inches.— 7Ae West Share, September, 1884, p. 291.
STRAIT OF OEOBOIA.— naving passed out of the Strait of Juan de Fuca
by either of the channels described in Chapter VI., pages 351 — 388, ante, when
to north-westward of a line drawn between the East point of Saturna Island
and Whitehorn Point of the main, a vessel may bo considered well in the Strait
of Georgia, but before entering upon any description of tho latter, it may be
well to offer a few remarks on the comparative merits of the two main channels
which lead into it, viz., Haro and Ro. ario Straita ; both have their advantages
and disadvantages under varying conditions.
Haro Strait is more tortuous ; the water is so deep that it would be impoa-
sible for a vessel to anchor in the main stream, and for its whole length the
tides, though not stronger, are more varying in their direction.
Rosario Strait leads by a very gentle curve almost a straight course into the
Strait of Georgia ; the depth of water, although considerable, is such that if
necessary a vessel might anchor in it. In one part it is somewhat narrower
than the narrowest parts of Haro Strait, und the tides run with equal strength;
it has its sunken rocks and dangers in an equal degree with the Haro, and
perhaps the anchorages in point of numbers and facilities for reaching them
are equal in both. Extreme care and vigilance are called for in navigating
either with a sailing vessel; to one with steam power, neither offer any
difficulties.
A glance at the chart will show that to a vessel bound from sea', or from
any of the southern ports of Vancouver Island, to the Strait of Georgia, the
Haro Channel is preferable, and it will be equally evident that to reach the
same destination from Admiralty Inlet or Pugct Sound Rosario Strait is the
most direct and desirable. Having entered, however, by either channel, the
promontory of Roberts Point will be immediately seen with its conspicuous
white-faced cliff, and appearing as an island. From the ncrthem entrance of
Haro Strait it will bear N.N.W. 11 miles ; and from the Rosario N.W. by W.
15 miles.
The general direction of the Strait of Georgia is W.N.W., and from a
position midway between Suturna and Patos Islands, 19 miles on this course
should take a vessel abreast the entrance of Fraser River, the Sand Heads
bearing N.N.E., distant 3 miles ; and for this distance the breadth of the
strait, not including the deep indentation of Semiahmoo Bay, is 10 miles. Con-
tinuing the same course for a further distance of 19 miles, will lead between
Bu-rard Inlet on the East, and Nanaimo Harbour on the West; at this
position the entrance of the former bears about N.E. ^ E. 16 miles, and the
latter S.W. i W. 7 miles.
North racific. 8 w
458
BRITISH COLUMBIA, ETC.
l!
The breadth of tho strait, after pausing the Sand Ilcads of the Frascr, in-
creases to 14 miles; and between Nunaimo and Burrard Inlet it is 20 miles.
The depth of water is from 70 to 100 fathoms between Roberts Point and the
wcHtcrn side of the strait, and further to the westward between Burrard Inlet
and Nanaiino as much as 200 fathoms in the centre.
The dangers to bo avoided in working through the strait are, on the eastern
sliore, Koberts and Sturgeon Banks ; and on tho wcatcrn, the neighbourhood
uf Most Point, and Tumbo Island, and the coasts cf Saturna and Mayne
Islands, until beyond the entrauoc of Active Pass. A chain of reefs and rocky
islets lie parallel with this shore, in places extending nearly a mile off; and as
the bottom is rocky and irregular, with a considerable strength of tide, vessels
ure recommended not to approach it within 2 miles.
It should also be remembered that the ebb sets to the S.W., through Active
Pass, and that tide races occur in its northern entrance. Boberts Bank is
cuHily avoided, especially since tho establishment of the pile lighthouse. If
the weather is thick, when 50 fathoms is struck, a vessel will be getting very
near the edge.
The Tides, although not nearly so strong as among the Haro Archipelago,
yet run with considerable strength, as much as 3 knots, particularly during
the freshets of summer, when the Eraser River discharges an immense volume
of fresh water, which takes a southerly direction over the banks, and almost
straight for tho mouth of Active Pass. This peculiar milky-coloured water is
frequently carried quite across the strait, and is sometimes seen in the inner
channels washing the shores of Vancouver Island ; at other times it reaches
the centre of the channel only, forming a remarkable and most striking con-
trast with the deep blue waters of the Strait of Georgia.
Below the mouth of the Fraser, the tide is rather the stronger on the
western sb.^o. On the eastern side, within the line between Roberts and
Sandy Points, scarcely any tide is felt ; and vessels will gain by working up
on that shore with the ebb, where good anchorage can also be found, if
necessary.
Allowance must be made for the tides, which is not difficult, having once
entered the Strait of Georgia by daylight, and knowing which tide was
running.
The COAST of WMhington Territory, to the southward of the boundary
separating it from British Columbia, has been previously described in pages
345—348. We now commence with the promontory to the southward uf the
entrance of Fraser River.
B0BEBT8 POINT is the termination of a remarkable promontory which
stretches southerly from the delta of Fraser River. It presents a broad face
to the southward, and itf southern extreme is a little more than If mile South
of the 49th pai'Mlel of latitude, the boundary between British Columbia and
the United States : the eastern point of the promontory is a remarkable white-
nonKRTR POINT— FHASEU IlIVKll.
459
fnccd cIlfT, 200 tt. high, its iummit crowned with trees. I'^rom it the Unit
gradually fulls to the westward and terminates in Iloberts Spit, n low shin^lo
point, within which is a small space of level clear land, where a few wooden
buildings were erected on the first discovery of gold in the Froser KiTer, and
named Roherti Town ; for a few months it served as a dcp6t for the miners,
but it has long been deserted.
From this spit the coast trends to the N.N.W., with bluff shores of
moderate height for 3^ miles, when it merges into the swampy delta of the
Fraser. From most points of view, and particularly fron the southwurd,
Uoberts Point presents the appearance of an island. Shoal water and rocky
irregular bottom, on which kelp grows in summer, extends for more than a
mile E.S.K. from the white face of the point, and vessels are recommended to
give it a good berth.
Anchorage will be found on cither side of the promontory ; to the eastward
in 9 fathoms, sandy bottom, with the extreme of the white cliff bcarin;;
W.S.W. distant 1^ mile; Roberts Spit, the western termination of the pro-
montory, should be just shut in by the white cliff. To the westward of th«
spit there is fair anchorage in 8 fathoms good holding ground, with t..ji spit
extreme distant three-quarters of a mile, and in one with Mount Constitution
on Orcas Island bearing S.K. J E., a white flagstaff at the North end of the low
land of the point N.E. by E. i E., and the bare bluff of the 49° parallel or the
monument on its summit N.W. ; here the edge of the bank will be distant a
quarter of a mile, and a ship should not anchor any further to the northward,
as Roberts Bank trends rapidly to the westward.
There is a granite monument, 25 ft. high, erected on the summit of the
parallel bluff, which is only just visible from the anchorage on account of the
trees ; it marks the boundary between the British and United States posses-
sions, and is mentioned on page 348 previously.
Ships should not lie at this anchorage with strong southerly or westerly
winds, but should shift round to the eastern one, or to Semiahmoo Bay, which
is always safe, and has anchorage in almost any part.
ROBEATS BAHK, caused by the sediment deposited by fhe stream of the
Fraser River, extends from the spit of Roberts Point in a W. by N. direction
for 9^ miles, to the Sand Heads or river entrance, and at this point is 5 miles
from the shore ; it then takes a N.N.W. direction for a further distance of 12
miles, joining Grey Point on the North, as it does Roberts Point on the South.
The portion of the bank northward of the Fraser has been named Sturgeon
Bank; it is steep-to, and a mile outside the edge the soundings are from
70 to 60 fathoms, shoaling thence to 20, and immediately after to 2 fathoms.
By night the edge of this bank will be cleared by not bringing the light on
Atkinson Point, Burrard Inlet, to bear westward of North.
FBASEB RIVER, in point of magnitude and present commercial im-
portance, is second only te the Columbia on the N.W. coast of America. Iix
1
m
m
;
'i
IK
4M
BRITISH COLUMnlA.
iu great freedom from risk of life and shipwreck, it pomessei infinite ndvnn-
tngcs over nny other river on the coast, and the cause of this immunity from
the dangers and inconTeniences to which all great rivers emptying themselves
on an exposed coast are suhject, is sufficit-iitly obvious. A sheltered strait,
scarcely 15 miles across, receives its wutei^ ; and thn neighbouring Island of
Vancouver serves as a natural breakwater, preventing the possibility of any sea
■rising which would prove dongeroua to vessels even of the smallest class,
unless they ground.
To the same cause may bo attributed in a great meaaure the fixed and almost
unvarying character of the shoals through which this magnificent stream
pursues its undevious course into the Strait of Georgia ; and there can be little
doubt that it is destined, at no distant period, to fulfil to the utmost, as it in
already partially fulfilling, the purpoauii for which nature ordained it — the out-
let for the products of a great country, whose riches in mineral and agricultural
wealth are dally being more fully discovered and developed.
llie river, with its numerous tributaries, has its rise in the Rocky Moun-
tains, between 400 and 500 miles from the coast in a northerly direction, from
whence it forces its way in torrents ond rapids, through oin» of the many great
parallel valleys which intersect this region, conhucd by gigantic mountains,
with large tracts of country, rich in agricultural resources on either side of
them, until it reaches the town of Hope,* which is about 80 miles by the
windings of the river, in an easterly direction from its entrance. A deposit of
silver ore has lately been discovered near Hope.
Above the City of Lytton, which stands at the fork or confluence of the
Eraser and Thompson Rivers, 55 miles above Hope, many rich deltas occur, or
as they are termed by the miners, bars, and among these, known as the wet
diggings, gold was first discovered in British Columbia.
At Hope the river assumes the character of a navigable stream ; steamers of
light draught reach this point and even the town of Yale, 1 5 miles above it,
during from six to nine months of the year. The Hudson's Bay Company
have a station at Yale. In June, July, and August, the melting of the snow
causes so rapid a downward stream that vessels, even of high steam power, are
rarely able to stem it, and during these months numbers of large trees are
brought down from the flooded banks, which offer another serious obstruction
to navigation. Between Hope and Langley, the latter 30 miles from the
river's mouth, there is always a considerable strength of current from 4 to 7
knots, at times more ; but at Langley the river becomes a broad, deep, and
placid stream, and except during the three summer months, the influence of
the flood stream is generally felt, and vessels of any draught may conveniently
anchor. The depth is 10 fathoms ; the current not above 3 knots.
* Hope is nn old atation of the Hudton's Bay Company. Its lite i^ the most beautiful
in British Columbia — a wooded level shut in by an amphitheatre of lofty mountains — Yalf
upon a grnnder scale.— Viscount Milton and Dr. Cheadle, p. 348.
a ship
rises ra
with tij
these sil
coveret
Langley
The usi
from thi
more th
Froi
Septemj
Noveml
sufficier
abated.
Decembj
and thel
drawing!
fharku nivRft.
4A1
Midway between T^ngley and Hope the Ilnrrinon River fnll» into the
FraRer and by it, a long chain of lakea extending in n general N.W. direotion,
n compnratirely enay route has been eatabliBhed, by which the Upper Fraaer
ift reached at a point just below Bridge Uiver, in the heart of the gold region,
thus avoiding that difficult and at present almost impaMable part of the country
between the town of Yale and the Fountains, by the main river a distance of
about 00 miles.
Vessels of moderate draught may enter the Frnser neor high water, and pro-
ceed as high as Langley (or Derby) with ease, during the summer season,
provided they have or are assisted by steam power. The only diffic\ilty is
between the Sand Heads and Garry Point, the entrance proper of the river,
but while there are competent pilots, and the buoys remain in their powitions,
this difficulty disappears. The lighthouse is a sufficient guide for making the
entrance. It must be remembered, however, that tht tidea of the Strait of
Uoorgia sweep across the channels of the entrance, and a large ship is recom-
mended to enter or leave with the last quarter of the flood.
The great quantity of deposit b ^ught down by the freshets of summer, has
created an eztensiivc series of uudks, which extend 5 miles outhlde the entrance
])roper of the river. ''' o main stream has forced two almost straight though
somewhat narrow channels through these bonks, and at its junction with the
current of the Strait of Georgia, which runs at right angles to it, has caused
the wall-edged bank before alluded to, extending to Koberts Point on the
South and Grey Point on the North.
The river is at its lowest stage during the months of January, February, and
March. In April it commences to rise from the melting of the snows, and is
perhaps 2 ft. above its lowest level ; the flood stream is strong enough to swing
a ship at New Westminster up to the end of this month. In May the water
rises rapidly, the river is at its highest about the end of June, and remains up
with trifling fluctuations until the end of July or middle of August. During
these six weeks the banks are overflowed, and the extensive plains above Langley
covered for a space of several miles ; the strength of the stream between
Langley and Hope being from 4 to 7 knots, and in the narrow parts even more.
The usual rise of the river at Langley due to these floods is about 14 ft., but
from the testimony of an officer of the Hudson's Bay Company, who resided
more than thirty years there, it has been known to reach 25 feet.
From''^he middle to the end of August the waters begin to subside, and in
September the stream is not inconveniently strong. September, October, and
November are favourable months for the river navigation, as the water is then
sufficiently high to reach Hope, and the strength of the current considerably
abated. The shallow stern-wheel steamers have got to Hope as late ns
December; between this month und April, owing to the shoalncNs of the water,
and the great quantity of ice formed, navigation even by these vessels, only
drawing 18 inches, ia attended with great difficulty, and it rarely practioabl«
Xl
fl
46i
BRITISH COLTTMfilA.
at all. The snags or drift trees which become imbedded in the river, also
form a serious obstacle to navigation at this season.
In April, the steamers commence again to run. In June, July, and August,
the rapidity of the current is the great obstacle, but these high-pressure
vessels, commanding a speed of 11 and 12 knots, frequently accomplish the
voyage, though at much risk.
The Harrison Biver route (page 461) obviates some, but not all, of these
difficulties. At New Westminster the freshets raise the level of the river about
6 ft., but the banks being high no inconvenience is felt, and the strength of
the stream is rarely 5 knots, during the winter 2 to 3 knots ; for some miles
within the entrance the low banks are partially flooded for a month or six
weeks. The rise and fall due to tidal causes is from 8 to 10 ft. at springs,
between the Sand Heads and the entrance of the river proper at Garry Point ;
at New Westminster it is 6 ft., and at Langley scarcely perceptible.
IIOHTHOTJSE.— On the S.W. end of Sturgeon Bank, and between the two
channels into the river, is a pile lighthouse, 49 ft. high, from which is shown
ajixeri bright light, elevated 52 ft. above high water, and visible 12 miles. A
Bell is sounded in foggy weather. Lat. 45° 9' N., long. 123° 16' W.
This light, first exhibited in May, 1884, supersedes that formerly shown from
a lightvessel, which was moored off the entrance.
There are no natural marks sufficiently well defined, or which are not too
distant, or too liable to be obscured in cloudy weather, to enable a vessel by
their help alone to hit the narrow entrances between the Sand Heads with
accuracy, or without the aid afforded by the pile lighthouse on the South Sand
Head. A large spar buoy is placed on the South Sand Head, at 8 cables
8. ^ W. from the lighthouse, and the northern edge of the channel within is
marked by smaller buoys.
When up with the lighthouse at the entrance, a remarkable solitary bushy
tree will be seen on Garry Point, the northern entrance point of the river
proper, stra'ght for which is the general direction of the southern or old
channel. It bears from between the ^ ind Heads N.N.E. a little easterly, and
is just 5 miles distant. Although to steer direct for this tree would not clear
the outer edges of either bank for the whole length of the channel, yet it will
be found an excellent guide, to give almost the straight line in, should the
buoys be removed.
The South Sand Head dries before low water, and has frequently a ripple
on it when covered. The lighthouse bearing about N. by W. ^ W. leads to the
entrance, and when up to the buoys, those on the port or North side of the
channel should be kept from half a cable to u cable on the port hand. The
least depth in the channel was 11 or 12 ft. at low water, and this occurred
about midway between the Sand Heads and Garry Point ; but in August,
1884, notice was given that there was only 5 ft. water in this channel, at low
Muter, summer spring tides.
\
L
'.
FRASER RIVER— NEW WESTMINSTER.
463
In August, 1884, the Canadian Government gave notice that a new channel
had formed through the Sand Heads, with a depth of 8 ft. at low water,
summer spring tides, and that it has been marked with black spar buoys,
numbered consecutively from 1 to 9. The Sand Heads lighthouse bears
S.E. i^ S. from No. 1 buoy, distant 19 cables. A red buoy is moored on the
South Sand Head.
Vessels making for the new channel should, to clear the Sand Heads, keep
on the line of Leading Peak, on Anvil Island in Howe Sound, just open west-
ward of Passage Island, bearing N. by W. } W., until Garry Bush (Leading
Tree) bears N.E. by E., when it should be steered for ; leave the black buoys
a quarter of a cable on the port hand, and after passing No. 9 buoy, steer for
No. 15 fairway buoy, which may be left on either hand, and thence to Garry
Point, which should be passed close.
There is always a great quantity of drift wood on the point, and the
northern side of the river should be kept aboard for nearly 2 miles, where from
8 to 10 fathoms will be found ; it is then necessary to cross to the South side,
and to keep close along it, passing the mouth of the South or Boat Channel,
nearly 2 miles above which, and abreast a clump of high trees, cross again
to the North bank to the left of two low sandy islands ; the channel then
leads rather along the North side of the river, and with the assistance of the
chart will be found sufficiently easy for vessels of 20 ft. draught until 6 or 7
miles above Langley,
It is not, however, recommended for a stranger to enter without a pilot.
NEW WESTMINSTER, at first chosen as the capital of British Columbia,
a dignity now i,edcd to Victoria, stands on the North or right bank of the
Fraser River, just above the junction of the North Fork, and 15 miles in a
general north-easterly direction from the entrance proper. It occupies a com-
manding and well chosen position, being within an easy distance of the entrance,
and having great facilities for wharfage along its water frontage, a good depth
of water, and excellent anchorage.
The river bank is somewhat precipitous in places, and the country at the
back is densely wooded, like all the lower parts of the Fraser, unless, indeed,
in the immediate neighbourhood of the entrance, where it is swampy grass
land, subject to inundation during the freshets of summer ; a considerable
clearing, however, of the timber has taken place in the vicinity of the town,
which has a prominent and thriving aspect, and when the facilities for
entering the river and its capabilities are better known, will no doubt rise
more rapidly into importance. Seve^'al roads connect it with Burrard
Inlet.
At present the principal industry at New Westminster !s the canning of
salmon, with which the river abounds. Sturgeon and the oulachan or candle-
iish are olso abundant. There are also some saw-mills here. There is com-
munication with ViotoiJ \ by steamer twice a week, and the telegraph cable.
tm
4C4
BRITISH COLUMBIA.
crossing the Strait of Georgia to Nanaimo, is connected with the line across the
continent to Montreal, &c.
The western end of the Canadian Pacific Railway extends along the northern
and western banks of the river from near New Westminster to beyond Lytton,
where it crosses the river by a fine bridge. As before stated, the railway is
expected to be completed early in 1886.
The military establishment or camp of the Boyal Engineers, a mile above
New Westminster, is a most picturesque spot, commanding an uninterrupted
view of the Queen's Reach, a broad, deep, and magnificent sheet of water.
From the camp to Port Moody, an excellent harbour at the head of Burrard
Inlet, the distance is 4 miles in a North direction ; a good road exists between
the two places, and a waggon-road to Coal Harbour at the entrance of the
inlet. At 5 miles eastward of New Westminster is the entrance to Pitt River,
which runs in a general direction from N.N.E. to N.E. for 28 miles, ter-
minating in two remarkable lakes enclosed between almost perpendicular
mountains, and navigable to the head for vessels of 14 ft. draught, the depth
in places being far too great for anchorage. A large tract of low grass land
lies on both sides of the entrance of the Pitt, which, however, is generally
overflowed, or partially so, during six weeks of summer.
Derby or New Langley is 12 miles above New Westminster in an easterly
direction, on the South or opposite side of the river ; the channel between is
deep, and there are no impediments to navigation. The spot was first selected
as the capital, and as a town site it is unobjectionable, having a considerable
tract of good cleared land in its neighbourhood, and all the requirements of a
commercial port ; the depth of water here is 10 fathoms. Large vessels may
proceed with ease 7 miles beyond Langley ; the navigation then becomes
somewhat intricate, and the current too rapid for any vessels but steamers of
light draught and great power. Above this there are numerous settlements
on the banks of the river.
The NOETH FORK is another entrance to the Eraser, navigable for
vessels drawing 6 or 8 ft. water, and is generally used by the natives proceed-
ing to or from Burrard Inlet. Its junction with the main stream occurs imme-
diately below New Westminster, from whence it runs in a westerly direction,
and enters the Strait of Georgia through Sturgeon Bank, about 5 miles north-
ward of the Sand Heads ; a large low partially wooded island lies in ita en-
trance, and splits the channel into two arms.
In many parts of the North Fork the water is deep, in holes, and the bottom
irregular ; it can only be considered a boat channel.
BUBBASD INLET is the first great harbour which indents the shores of
British Columbia North of the 49th parallel. It is the lirazo de Florida
Blanca of (ialiano and Valdez. Its entrance, which is between Grey Point on
the South and Atkinson Point on the North, is 14 miles N.N.W. from the Sand
Heads of Eraser River, 21 miles N. by E. from Portier Pass, and 22 miles
I
,i'
BURllAED INLET— ENGLISH BAY.
465
N.E. i E. from Entrance Island of Nanaimo. Howe Sound immediately
adjoins it on the North, Atkinson Point, the northern entrance point of the
inlet, being the eastern limit of the sound.
The entrance of the inlet is well marked ; Grei/ Point, a long wooded pro-
montory terminating in a rounded bluff, is very conspicuous from the south-
ward, while Bowen Island, which lies at the entrance of Howe Sound, and may
also be said to form the northern boundary of the inlet, is very remarkable ;
its high round and almost bare summit. Mount Gardner, reaching an elevation
of 2,183 ft., is easily recognised from any point of view. Passage Island,
small but prominent, lies in the eastern passage of Howe Sound, midway
between Bowen Island and Atkinson Point, and is an excellent mark from the
southward ; Anvil Peak, on with or just open westward of this island bearing
N. by W. 5 W., clears the edge of the Sturgeon Bank. A telegraph cable
from Xaiiaimo is landed at Grey Point.
The LIGHTHOUSE on Atkinson Point is a square wooden building, 58 ft.
high, showing a rcvolvimj bright light, attaining its greatest brilliancy once
every minute, elevated 110 ft. above high water, and visible 14 miles. Lat.
•19-^ 10' 40' N., long. 123^ 16' W.
When in the vicinity of Eraser Eiver, vessels will avoid Sturgeon Bank by
not bringing this light to bear westward of North.
Uurrard Inlet difTcrs from most of the great sounds of this coast in being
extremely easy of access to vessels of any size or class, and in the convenient
depth of water for anchorage which may be found in almost every part of it;
its close proximity to Eraser llivcr likewise adds considerably to its importance.
Owing to these advantages, and from its possession of unbounded pine forests,
some saw-mills have been established here, which now produce large quantities
of excellent timber, especially from the valuable Douglas pine, which is
shipped to various parts of the world. Masts of this timber have been shipped
which were 130 ft. long, and 42 inches in diameter, hewn octagonally. It is
divided into three distinct harbours, viz., English Bay, or the outer anchorage.
Coal Harbour above the Pirst Narrows, and Port Moody at the head of the
eastern arm of the inlet. The woods around it abound in deer, &c.
English Bay is more than 3 miles in breadth at the entrance between Grey
and Atkinson Points, which bear from each other N.N.W. and S.S.E., and
carries the same breadth for nearly its entire length or almost 4 miles ; it is
contracted in some measure, however, by Spanin/t Bank, dry at low water,
which extends in a northerly direction from Grey Point three-quarters of a
mile, and then curves easterly. The N.W. edge of the bank is marked by a
red nun buoy, moored in 7 fathoms.
This anchorage is well protected from westerly winds by Spanish 'lank, and
as there is a good rise and fell of tide, as much as IC ft. at springs, and n clean
shelving sandy beach at the creek, it would be a desirable place to beach a
North Pacijic. 3
I'iLjl
P
'i^tM
1^
■'^Ijw
Wm
v^:l3
466
BBITISH COLUMBIA.
ship for repairs. The head of English Bay on the South shore terminates in
a shoal arm, named Falte Creek ; on the North shore it leads by the First
Natrows to Coal Harbour. A convenient anchorage will bo found half a mile
from the South shore of a small creek, near the centre of the bay, with the
extreme of Coal FeninsuUi bearing N. by £., in 7 or 8 fathoms, or higher up
if desired.
In 1881 it was announced that a yaluable seam of coal had been discovered,
cropping out on the face of a sandstone cliff in the Imperial Naval Beserve on
English Bay, at 1 mile from Coal Harbour.
Vessels intending to pass above the Narrows must attend to the tides, and a
stranger will do well to anchor in English Bay before proceeding higher up.
The First Narrow* lie between the bluff of Coal Peninsula and the North
side of the iulet, where the breadth of the channel is not more than 1^ cable,
with a depth of 12 fathoms. When at the entrance of the Narrows, the mid-
channel course is E. by S. i S. for 1| mile, when the broad inlet is again
rcnched. The Narrows are li If a mile long, and then gradually open out to
half a mile in width, abreast of Brockton Point.
The strength of the tide in the narrowest part of the First Narrows is from
4 to 8 knots. The only directions necessary for a steamer are to keep the
South shore aboard, and to be quick and careful with the helm ; small craft
may go through with ease, the tide being favourable ; to a sailing ship a
knowledge of the locality is necessary.
It is high water nt Burrard Inlet, on full and change, at G p.m. ; and the
rise is IG ft. The ebb stream commences directly it is high water by the
shore, and runs out for two hours after it is low. There is consequently only
4 hours' flood stream.
COAL HARBOUR is on the South side of Burrard Inlet, 2 miles within the
First Narrows, and, on the completion of the trans-continental Canadian
Paeifiu Railway, of which Coal Harbour is to be the western terminus, it is
expected to become of great importance. The Railway Company is negotiating
for a large tract of land contiguoiu to Coal Harbour, English Bay, and False
Creek, for the formation of wharfs, docks, and other shipping facilities. The
city which is expected to arise here is to be named Vuncouver. The railway
will probably be completed early in the year 1886, the distance from Montreal
being 2,862 miles, and it is calculated that the distance between Liverpool
and Yokohama, Japan, will be shorter by 900 miles than vi& San Francisco.
It is intended to establish a line of steamers to China, Japan, &c,, on the
railway being opened.
Gas Town, with about 200 inhabitants, is situated on the East side of the
harbour, and a small steamer plies between this village and Moody saw-mills
on the northern side of the inlet. At Hastings saw-mill, on the East point of
fthe harbour, arc several piers for the convenience of vessels loading lumber,
with a depth of 25 ft. alongside the largest one, Wood for steaming purposes
• Moit
hu b«en
Oregon,
ductiuns,
BUBRARD INLET— COAL HAEBOUR— PORT MOODY. 4G7
cnn be procured in abundance ; the water is of bad quality. A powerful
steam-tug is available for towing purposes between Juan de Fuca Strait and
Burrard Inlet.
The scat of tho greatest lumbering industries in the Province is Burrnrd
Tnlet, where arc two large mills manufacturing for foreign exportation. The
Hastings Saw-mill Company cuts about 15,000,000 ft. annually, frequently
filling orders for special timbers of enormous size ; some have been cut tw.'uty-
eight inches square and 110 ft. long. The Moody ville Saw-mill Company cuts
nearly 20,000,000 ft. annually and employs about 100 men, having numerous
electric lights for night work. Cargoes of lumber arc sent to China, Australia,
&c., and spars to England. Another mill is located at Port Moody.*
Coal Harbour is easy of access for vessels of the largest draught at all stages
of the tide, and affords excellent landlocked anchorage. Vessels entering Coal
Harbour from English Bay should keep the South shore of the First Narrows
aboard within 2 cables, when past the narrowest part, until abreast Brockton
Point, the West point of Coal Harbour, when steer E. by S. for half a mile to
avoid Burnahy Shoal, a 9-ft. patch with kelp on it, lying 3 cables E. J S. from
the point. It is usually marked by a buoy, which is liable to break adrift.
The houses N.W. of Brockton Point open North of that point leads North of
the shoal.
Having cleared Burnaby Shoal, haul in South for the anchorage in 8 fathoms,
at one-third of n mile from the shore. The best anchorage is in 10 to 12
fathoms, with the North extreme of the piers at Hastings Mill bearing E.N.E.,
and the long floating landing-stnge at Gas Town, S. by W. ; here a vessel will
be out of the influence of the strong tidal streams. An islet lies near the
centre of the inner western part of the harbour, and within this the har-
bour dries.
Between the First and Second Norrows, a distance of 4} miles, the course
of tho inlet is E. i N., varying in breadth from half to 1} mile. The Second
Narrows arc similar to the First. On the North side is a bank similar to that
on the North side of the First Narrows, but more extensive, caused by the
deposit brought down from the high mountains by tho numerous streams
which empty themsel*. «.'!» into the inlet on the North side. The channel is
straight, and the tides which run from 3 to 7 knots set fairly through it. Tho
only directions necessary are to keep the South shore close aboard, and steer
from point to point.
Fort Moody. — The entrance of this snug harbour is 4 miles eastward of the
Second Narrows, at the head of the eastern arm of the inlet. It is 3 miles in
* Most of the kbove information, with much relating to other pnrta of Briii.-h Columbia,
has been obtained from tho " West Shore," of Suptomber, 1S84, ptillished nt Portland,
Oregon. Tbu number conttdna a very interesting account of the rrorince nnd itc pro>
ductions,
468
BRITISH COLUMBIA, ETC.
' I
length, and vnries in breadth from a third to half a mile, except nt its rntrnnco,
where it is only 2 cables across ; there arc no dangers, nnd a uniform depth of
water, with good holding ground. Abreast the turning point, and on the
North shore, where it changes its direction from N.K. by K. ^ E. to E. by 8.,
a bank dries off it for nearly 2 cables at low water, on which good oysters arc
found. The best anchorage is in the widest part of the harbour, just before
reaching the arm which turns E. by S., in 5 to G fathoms, about half a mile
from the road leading to New Westminster. It was at first proposed to make
Port Moody the terminus of the railway, but it has had to give way to the
superior advantages of English Bay and Coal Harbour, at the entrance of ti»c
inlet. A wharf has been constructed here reaching into 2G ft. water.
North Arm, just before reaching Port Moody, and 3 miles above the Second
Narrows, branches off from the main inlet, and runs in a general northerly
direction for 1 1 miles. It is entirely different in its character from other por-
tions of the inlet. The depth of water varies from 50 to 110 fathoms, and it is
enclosed on both sides by rugged mountains rising from 2,000 to 5,000 't.
almost perpendicularly, and down the steep sides of which the melting snow
in summer forces its way in foaming cascades, rendering the surface water in
the inlet below all but fresh.
winter months fresh water is to bo obtained ir
ing
parts
rard Inlet, and probably the whole year round there would be no scarcity ; in
June there is abundance at the creek in English Bay, off which is the an-
chorage. In Port Moody there is a fine stream close to the oyster bank.
SOUTHERN SHORE OF THE STRAIT OF GEORGIA.
OABBIOLA REEFS arc a dangerous cluster of rocks, some of which cover
nt half fiood, others having a few feet water over them. They lie 2 miles off
the eastern point of Gabriola Island, mentioned on page 388, ante, 8 miles
below the entrance of Nanainio Harbour, and cover a space of half a mile.
From the North point of Portier Pass, the outer extreme of the reef bears
N.W. i N. 8 miles; and from the easternmost of the Flat-top Islands, a
group of low wooded islets lying close off the East end of Gabriola Island,
E. i S. 1^ mile. On the largest ledge, which covers at G ft. rise of tide, is an
iron beacon, 26 ft. high, surmounted by a cage, and painted black. There is
a passage inside the reefs, but it is not recommended.
Thrasher Rock, at nearly G cables N. by E. ^ E. from the beacon on
Gabriola Reefs, and about 2 cables off the end of the reefs, has recently been
found in the kelp ; it dries IJ ft. at low water, spring tides, and between it
nnd the reefs there appeared to be a depth of about 5 fathoms, rocky bottom.
A conical black buoy is moored in 11 J fathoms, 1 ca'uio N.E, of the rock.
OABRIOLA REEFS— NANAIMO HARBOUR.
469
The mprks most convenient for vessels coming from the southward nrc to
keep the North and S.W. entrance points of I'orticr I'uss just touching, on a
bearing S.E. by S. } S., which will lead more than a mile eastward, and
working up Berry Foint well open of Flat-top Islands, W. i S., leads about
1 mile northward of Gabriola Reefs and Thrasher Rock. By night the light
on Entrance Island forms a good mark for avoiding these dangers; when
bearing W. J S., it I ads about a mile north-eastward of Thrasher Rock.
Westward of Flat-top Island the shore of Gabriola is bold until near Berry
Point and Entrance Island, when it should not be approached within a long
half mile. Foul ground extends for some distance eastward of the point of
the island.
Entrance Island lies half a mile N.N.E. of Berry Foint, the N.E. extreme
of Gabriola Island. It is rocky, 30 ft. high, formed of sandstone, bare of
trees, but has some vegetation on it. Vessels passing up the strait bound for
Nanaimo should round this island. There is a deep passage between it and
Berry Point named Fortcood Channel, something more than 2 cables in
breadth, which steamers and small craft may use ; but the South and West
sides of Entrance Island must be avoided, as reefs and broken ground extend
2 cables off them.
The LIOHTHOTTSE on Entrance Island ig a square wooden towei, 50 ft.
high, painted white ; from it is shown a Jixed bright light, elevated G5 ft.
above high water, and visible 14 miles. Latitude 49° 12' 50" N., longitude
123° 48' 45" W.
Having rounded this island at the distance of half a mile, or more if con-
venient, the entrance of Nanaimo Harbour will be distant 5 miles. There arc
three channels leading to the harbour, viz.. Fairway, Middle, and Inner.
Fairway Channel is the most convenient for vessels bound to Nanaimo from
the southward or eastward ; but Middle Channel is certainly the safest and
most desirable for vessels from the northward.
Fairway Channel is the most direct for vessels entering from the south-
ward or eastward. It lies between the shore of Gabriola and Ltyhlhounv
Island, which is a smooth-topped, grassy, sandstone island, 3 cables in extent
North and South, about 60 ft. high, and bears from Entrance Island W. by
S. i S. 3 miles. A ledge of rocks, 4 cables long in a North and South direc-
tion, lies E.S.E. neorly half a mile from the island, with a depth of 9 ft. on its
northern edge, and 20 ft. on its southern. The ledgj is generally covered
with streaming kelp, and has a channel of 7 fathoms water between it and the
island ; its North edge bears from the South point of Lighthouse Island
N.E. by E. 3 cables, and its South end E.S.E., nearly half a mile.
The breadth of Fairway Channel between this ledge and Rocky Point of
Gabriola Island is full three-quarters of a mile. For a distance of 2 cables off
the latter point from 4 to 7 fathoms, rocky bottom, will be found, where occa-
sionally kelp grows, but nothing exists which would bring a ship up. A mid-
-n
I
1 ;»
7!
M'
hi!
470
VANCOUVER ISLAND.
channel course ia recommended, which from a berth holf o mile off Entrance
Island is S.W. i W. for 3 miles. The water is deep, and the bottom irrcgiilnr,
varying from 1£ to 40 fathoms. If to the southward of mid-chnnncl it will
shoal to 15 fathoms, and shortly to 8 fathoms off Rocky Point.
Direotiont, — Having entered the Strait of Georgia, between Eost Point of
Satuma and Patos Island, a W.N.W. course for 38 miles will Icod nearly 3
miles outside Gabriola Reefs, and abreast Entrance Island, the latter bearing
S.W., distant 6 miles. A vessel proceeding through Fairway Channel, if
northward of mid-channel must keep a look-out for the kelp on Lighthouse
Island ledge; when Lighthouse Island bears N.W. steer S. ^ W., which leads
for the entrance of Nanaimo Harbour, distant a little over 2 miles. Strangers
should be careful not to mistake it for Northumberland Channel, which latter
lies from Lighthouse Island in a S.S.E. direction, between the high cliffy
West coast of Gabriola Island and Sharp Pom*, a remarkable narrow projec-
tion on the main, and off which, at the distance of half a cable, is a rock which
uncovers.
Having passed between Lighthouse and Gabriola Islands, there is a good
working space oi \^ mile in breadth, between Gabriola on the East and
Newcastle and Protection Islands on the West, but the water is too deep for
anchorage. The shores of the latter islands should not be approached within
a quarter of a mile, as shoal rocky ledges extend off them. Having brought
Gallows Point, the southern extreme of Protection Island, to bear S.W. ^ W.,
the town will open out.
A vessel may anchor, if necessary, with the high-water mark of Gallows Point
bearing W.N.W. , distant a quarter of a mile, which will be in the fuirway of
the entrance, but it is di£Scult for a sailing vessel to pick up a berth here with
a strong breeze, as the space for anchorage is confined.
NANAIMO HABBOUB, when the banks are covered, gives the idea of a
large sheet of water, but the deep part is limited. The entrance lies between
Gallows Point and the southern bank. A rocky ledge extends for 1^ cable on
every side of the point, and in summer is marked by kelp ; a large boulder
stands on the ledge off the point, distant 150 yards, and covers before high
water. The South side of the channel is the northern edge of the great
shallow bay to the southward, which, although it does not quite dry in this
part, has only 2 or 3 ft. on it at low water, and is steep-to. The entrance is
here marked on either side by a buoy about a cable apart in a North and
South direction ; within them the harbour opens out, but in its centre is the
Middle Bank, 2 cables long in a northerly direction, and half a cable broad,
with a buoy on either end of it. Two narrow winding channels, the North
and South, lead into the usual anchorngo, which is close off the town, and
westward of the Middle Bank. Both arc buoyed in the vicinity of the latter,
but no ctrauger should enter either channel without a pilot. The buoys are
i -i
NANAIMO HARBOUR— DEPARTURE BAY.
471
conical, those on the North sides of the channels being black and bearing a
'all, lUid those on the South sides red, and bearing a triangle.
A remarkable white patch on the cliffy shore of Gabriola Island just open
northward of the extreme of Sharp Point, the latter bearing E. by N. | N., leads
through the channel until near Qallows Point, which should be rounded at a
little more than a cable's length. In the North channel two buoys will then
be seen, a cable's length apart, the southern one on the North end of the
Middle Bank, the North one on the South edge of Satellite Ueef ; steer about
West to pass between them, then haul close round the southern buoy, and
steer for the Mine Chimney. Anchor close off the town in 5 fathoms, midway
between the buoy and Seacon liock, which dries at low water, and has a
beacon on it, consisting of a staff and ball. The South channel, though of
sufficient depth for large vessels, has a somewhat sharp turn at its western end,
but is very convenient for vessels leaving with a northerly wind, when they
would be obliged to warp out of the North channel.
The town of Nanaimo, the second most important settlement on Vancouver
Island, was founded by the Hudson's Bay Company, in 1852. It is situated
on the shore of the bay, and now has an increasing population of over 2,000,
mostly engaged in the mining and shipping of the excellent bituminous coal
found in abundance in the locality. The coal is shipped from a wharf,
supplied with chutes, which arc capable of shipping 1,000 tons per day, being
connected with the collieries by railway. Steam-tugs can be obtained for
towing. There are also several other wharves here, a ship-yard, &c. A
telegraph cable extends across the Strait of Georgia to Point Grey, thus con-
necting Vancouver Island with New Westminster, and the line across
Canada; and it is intended to construct a railway to Esquimalt, as before
stated.
COAL. — The mines of Nanaimo and Wellington produce a good bituminous
coal, which answers well for steaming purposes. It is lighter by about 10 per
cent, than Welsh coal, and its consumption is proportionately rapid, but from
tests made by II.M. Ships, the War Department of the United States, &c., it
has been found to be far superior to any other coal found on the coast. The
demand for it is rapidly increasing. It is now exported to California in lai^e
quantities, over 169,000 tons having been shipped to San Francisco in 1880;
about 120,000 tons were shipped to that port in 1883. Besides this, cargoes
are also sent to the Sandwich Islands and China.
Besides being far superior to any that has yet been discovered or worked
in this country, there can be little doubt but that this coal exists in sufficient
quantities to supply the whole Pacific coast for almost an indefinite period.
DEFARTUBE BAT. — A long narrow channel or arm between Newcattle
Island and the main leads in a N.W. direction from Nanaimo Harbour to
Departure Bay. It is IJ mile in length, and a cable in breadth, with 12 ft.
at low water, except on a rock, which has only 2 ft. on it, lying in the centre,
hMb
IH 133'
ttm*'
^HibH
l^u Vm '
ilri 1
III
if
id/fu
II
III
i'l'i '1 jl
■ Ik* P
'i|,V*i| 1
rieI 1
{r\B fl
S'lpi g
i '"a'S S
HI Ifl&t 1
ill
llll
jkS
it".
472
VANCOUVER ISLAND.
' .'
In
2 cables nortli-wcstwnrd of IJocky I'oint, the Soutli point of NewcaBtle Island.
A red buoy is moored on this rock, and a similar buoy is placed in 15 ft., on
the N.E. edge of the bank extending off the entrance to Mill Creek. Vessels
of IJj or 16 ft. draught may enter Departure Bay by this channel at suitable
times of tide, but largo vessels must enter northward of Newcastle Island.
Coal is found on this island, and has been worked.
From Lighthouse Island, the entrance of Deporturo Bay bears S.W. J W.,
distant 2 miles, and lies between the steep cliffy North point of Newcastle
Island, and Jesse Islet to the northward of it. The breadth of this channel is
3 cables, and the depth 20 fathoms. Little less than this depth will be found
in any part of the bay, and it is not nearly so sheltered as Nanaimo Harbour.
The western edge of the shoal in the S.E. part of this bay, extending from the
shore of Newcastle Island, is marked by a red beacon buoy moored in 6
fathoms, at 1^ cable N.W. of the entrance to the channel leading to Nauaimo
Harbour.
Vessels intending to load with coal (and there is no other inducement to
anchor here), and having to wait for a cargo, should bring the steep North
point of Newcastle Island to bear N. by E., and anchor in not less than
18 fathoms, off the coal mine, 2 cables from the shore; the bank runs up steep
within this depth, and shoals from 12 to 2 fathoms. Unless anchored well
out, a vessel is liable, with N.W. winds, to tail on the bank ; and ships arc
not recommended to lie here after they have got their cargo in. A stranger
should take a pilot for the coaling station iu Departm-c Bay, cither Hum out-
side or in Nanaimo Harbour.
Departure Bay has accommodation for a large amount of shipping, and there
are usually numerous vessels here loading coal from the wharves, which have
a depth of 5 to 7 fathoms alongside them, and are capable of supplying about
1,500 tons daily. Buoys are placed off the wharves, to enable vessels to warp
alongside. The coal is brought by railway from the Wellington mines, about
5 miles inland.
Middle Channel lies between Lighthouse and Five-Jinger Island, 1 \ mile
W.N.W. from it. The latter is a bare rugged islet of about the same dimen-
sions as the former, but of trap formation, instead of sandstone ; the five hum-
mocks on it resemble knuckles more than fingers. The channel is perfectly
free from danger, and has a depth of 80 fathoms.
S.8.W. of Five-finger Island are three smallar islets of similar character
and formation, with some rocks about them which uncover. Inner Channel,
4 cables in breadth, lies between the above islets and the shore of the main,
and being more direct than the channel between them and Five-finger Island,
is convenient for steamers or small craft.
Tides. — It is high water at Nanaimo Barbour, on full and change, at about
S** p.m., and the range of tide is sometimes 16 ft., which is as much as is met
with any\. lerc on the coast, and mokes this a most eligible spot for the con-
'I'Jie
tiiW <
NORTH UMBKIIL AND CHANNEL— STRAIT OF GEORGIA. 473
Btruction of docks, for which it offera peculiar facilities. This great range of
tide only occurs at midnight during winter, and in the daytime in summer.
The superior and inferior tides exist here as they do at Esquimau and among
the Haro Archipelago. On the opposite coast, at liurrord Inlet, this irregu-
larity docs not exist.
NORTHUMBERLAND CHANNEL, before mentioned as lying between
Sharp Point and the western shore of Gabriola Island, runs in a S.E. direction
for 1 i mile, and then East for 2 miles, when it enters the Dodd and False
Narrows, the former on the South side of Mudgc Island, the latter on tho
Nortli ; a rock which uncovers extends half u cable off tlio extreme of Sharp
Point. False Xiirroics are shoal, with no ship passage, but there is excellent
anchorage in 7 to 10 fathoms in Percy Bay, at their western entrance.
Dodd Narrows have already been described from the southward (p. 386).
They communicate with the inner channels leading to tho southern ports,
and save a distance of 20 miles in the passage from Nunaimo to Victoria or
Esquimalt.
The STRAIT of OEORQIA, as already observed, commences at the northern
end of tho Haro Archipelago, and extends in a general W.N.W. direction to
Cape Mudge, a distance of 110 miles. There are many harbours, both on the
A'aiicouver and continental shores, and several islands, some of considerable
si/0, form other channels, all of which are navigable.
Tlio average width of tho main strait westward of Nannimo is about 9 miles,
diminishing at its narrowest part between Lasqueti and the liallinac Islands,
to 5 miles. The general depth of water is great, frequently over 200 fathoms.
The tides are not strong, and between Nanaimo and Cape Mudgc there are
few dangers in the way of ships navigating the strait.
The smaller channels on the continental shore are Malaspina Strait and
Sabine Channel, the former lying between the continent and Texhada Island,
the other separating Texhada from Lasqueti Island.
On the Vancouver shore is Ballinac Channel, lying westward of the islands
of the same name ; also Lambert Channel and Baynes Sound, the former
between Hornby and Dcnman Islands, and the latter dividing both from Van-
conver Island ; they will be separately described.
Tides. — The meeting of the tides takes place between Cape Mudge and Capo
Lazo ; that is to say, the flood entering by Fuca Strait meets that entering
by the North end of Vancouver Island, within 20 miles of the former cape,
generally much nearer, but varying according to the phases of the moon and
the state of the winds ; and at the point of meeting a considerable race occurs,
which would be dangerous to boats ; there is generally such a race at tho
entrance of Discovery Passage. It is high water, on full and change, at Capo
Mudge and Cape Lazo at about 5** 30*", and the range during ordinary springs
is from 12 to 14 ft. At the entrance of tho passage during springs the stream
North Pacific. 3 p
'Ijilffi
474
VANCOUVER ISLAND.
runs as much as from 4 to G knots an Lour, the flood or easterly strcom being
tho strongest.
Winda. — In summer N.W. winds prevail in the Strait of Georgia, blowing
strong and steadily during the daytime from May to September. In winter
there is a good deal of moderate, calm, and gloomy weather, with frequent
gales from S.E. and S.W.
NAHOOSE HABB0T7B, at 8 miles westward of Nanaimo. will bo known
by the remarkable hill called Nanoose or Notched Hill, which rises between
COO and 700 ft. immediately over its North side, and shows as a double or
notch peak from tho southward.
The shore westward of Nanaimo is free from danger, and at the distance of
half a mile 20 fathoms will be found. Off the North point of tho harbour Ho
a group of small wooded islands ; the entrance is between Maude Island (tho
southernmost of them) and Blunden Point, on tho South Hhoro of the main,
and is here nearly three-quarters of o niilo in width. Westward of the latter
n sand-bank dries a considerable distance off at low water. Entrance Hock,
2 ft. above hi^h water, and 1| milo within Blunden Point, extends off a low
maple flat on the South side almost into tho middle of tho harbour, and con-
tracts tho width of the entrance here to a quarter of a mile ; within this tho
harbour opens out to nearly a milo in width, and terminates at tho distance of
1 1 mile in a shoal mud flat, which dries at low water more than half a mile,
and where abundance of oysters are found. The only danger on the North
shore, in entering, is North Rock, which lies nearly 2 cables from the shore,
and has 5 ft. on the outer part. It is a spacious ond wcU-shelterod anchorage
from all winds ; with Nanooso Uill bearing North there is anchorage iu 12
fathoms, near the centre.
Fresh water may be obtained from n cove at the bend on the North side,
and there is a convenient nook with a steep shingle beach, where a vessel
might be laid for repairs, if necessary, on the same side, a mile from the head.
It is high water, on full and change, at S*" p.m., and springs range 15 feet.
The COAST, for G niiies westward of Nanoose, is strewed with numerous
small islands and reefs, the latter generally marked by kelp. /I'lie outermost
of them, Winchehea and Yeo Islands, extend between 1 and 2 miles from tho
land, and beyond these there arc no hidden dangers. Grey Hock, bare, 12 ft.
above high water, and rather remarkable, lies 2 cables E.N.E. from the East
end of the Winchelsea group.
Bndder Reef, with 6 ft. water on it, lies a quarter of a mile S.E. i E. from
Grey Hock, and has very little kelp on it. This reef must be avoided by vessels
bound westward from Nanoose Harbour, and the S.E. end of the Winchelsea
Islands should be given a berth of at least half a mile.
Ballinac Islands, two in number, are larger than the groups just described,
and lie further off shore. They are about 250 ft. high ; the northernmost one
has but two or three trees, and its summit terminates in a sharp bore nipple ;
UALLIXAO CIIANNEI^QUALICUM IllVED.
475
the Boutlicrnmost is wooded. They hnvc tlic n|)i)i-nrnnco of ono islniid n8 scon
from nil points. The it«lnnds arc steep nnd bold un nil sides, nnd nro con*
spicuous after pnsaing westward of Nnnnimo. Vessels bound through the
Strait of Georgia would do well to steer for thcin.
Ballinao Channel lies southward of the islands, between them nnd the
•mailer group which extends off the const wcstwnrd of Nnnoojoe. It is n siife,
clenr pnssnge, 1 i mile in width nt its nnrrowest part, which is nbrcnst Cierald
Island. The depth in mid-chnnnel is 13G fathoms, and the shores uf the
islands on both sides may be approached within n cable's length, if neccsNnry.
The only danger in the channel in working through is Cutlam RerJ\ which linH
2^ fathoms on it ; it is generally marked by kelp, and lies on the southern
side. To steamers, coasters, or vessels with a fair wind, liallinac Channel is
recommended. With strong N.W. winds the water is far smoother hera than
in the channel northward of the islnnds.
North-west Bay is 6 miles wcstwnrd of Nnnoosc. MUtakcn Island, low,
wooded, nnd hnlf a mile long, lies immediately off its northern eutrnnce point,
nnd S.W. ^ 8. 2^ miles from the North linllinnc Island. The bay indents the
const for 2 miles in nn K.S.K. direction, mnking n peninsula of the land which
separates it from Nnnoosc Harbour. It is much exposed to N.W. winds, nnd
the water in it is very deep.
From North-west Hay the land trends, with n slight indentation, nearly
West for 19 miles to Denmc nnd Hornby Islands, and to the southern en-
trances of Bnynes Sound nnU Lambert Channel. The land between Nnnoosc
nnd the Komox or Comox district, n distance of 24 miles, is undulating, nnd of
n moderate height from the . ea-cor st to the base of the mountain ranges, n
distance of about 4 miles. There nrc largo deposits of coal in the Comox
district, and the neighbourhood of linynes Sound. At the latter it is being
worked.
Qnaliodm River empties itself on this coast, 80 miles westward of Nnnalmo,
and 5 miles eastward of the eastern entrance of Bayncs Sound. It is a small
stream, only noticeable as affording shelter to canoes or boats within its
entrance, and as being the terminus of the trnil between the head-waters of
Barclay Sound and the eastern const of the island, a distance of only 13 miles
in a direct line. Qualicum Bay is a slight indentation of the const, imme-
diately West of the river, where very fair anchorage will be found in 8 or 10
fathoms, three-quarters of n mile from the shore.
The mountain ranges westward of Nanaimo arc of considerable height, and
very striking in their general features and varied outlines. Most conspicuous
amongst them, and midway between Barclay Sound and the East coast, rises
Mount Arrowtmilh to a height of nearly 6,000 ft. Its remarkable summit,
terminating in three sharp, well-defined peaks, is rarely free from snow.
Denman nnd Hornby Islnnds lie immediately off the coast, 34 miles west*
ward of Nnnaimo; the former is 9 miles long in a W.N.W< diiection, or.
%A
i.ersi'd with large boulders, which can be seen
nt low water. Great quantities of kelp grow on it during summer, and it is
rarely entirely without it. To cross the kelp bar over its narrowest part and
in tho deepest water, 15 ft. a<, low water, a vessel should stand 21 miles
through the sound, north-westward of Henry Hay, until a rather remarkablo
white beach (on the western shore. West .'5 miles from Iteak Point) is brought
to bear S. by W. i W., then steer out boldly N. by E. i E. The entrauco is
marked by spor buoys, as before stated.
On Whito llcaeh leading marks, consisting of white-washed planks attached
to trees, have been erected. When in line tliey jjresent the npj)earancc of an
upper and lower cross, wliieli may be seen from a distance of G milcB, and lead
across tho bar in not less than 12 ft. at low water.
"'■^^
' .Ol^fc ■■■■"
M
Mi
I
478
VANCOTTVER ISLAND.
Port Augusta, in tlic N.W. corner of Bayncs Sound, nltliougli apparently
a large sheet of water, its upper part is a mud flat, which almost dries at low
tides, and is formed by the Courtcnay Eiver, which flows into it. There is a
village here, connected with Victoria by steamer, and at 3 cables from it is a
saw-mill.
From White Bluff", bofore mentioned, a remarkable elbow-shaped tongue of
land, named Goose Spit, projects to the southward and westward ; it is grassy,
with one or two hillocks, and bare, with two small clumps oi trees. Goose
Spit forms the northern entrance point of the port, and (Jrasmj Point tlic
southern ; the latter is very low and swampy, the delta of a considerable
stream. Off" it, at low water, sand and boulders dry for 2 cables, and the
water shoals suddenly from 10 fathoms to G ft. at the distance of 3^ cables,
leaving a width of less than a mile between tho entrance points.
Within Qoose Spit is an excellent place for anchorage, in 14 fathoms,
with a S.E. gale, though no sea to spenk of could get up in any part of Poit
Augusta.
Covrtenay River is a deep and rapid mountain stream, but on account of
falls and other obstructions is only navigable for a few miles for boats and
canoes ; it has its rise in Mount Washington, having a considciablo extent of
rich grass country on either side.
Mount Washington is remarkable, and rises to 5,410 ft. ; it is the westernmost
of a range 10 miles in length, terminating in Mount Bccher to the East; to I'n.
southward and westward of it are several high mountain ranges and peaks
from 4,000 to 7,000 ft. above the seo, the highest summits being covered with
snow all the year round.
The Beaufort Itange rise on the western side of Baynes Sound, 7 or 8 miles
from the coast, and stretch for 12 miles iu a W.N.W. and E.S.E. direction,
varying in elevation from 4,500 to 5,400 ft. ; they are very remark' ble, pre-
senting seven or eight distinct summits, which are rarely free from s low. This
range, together with Mount Washington, form the eastern boundary of the
great central valley and chain of lakes which run through the length of
Vancouver Island from tho head of Barclay Sound.
Lambert Channel, between Denman and Hornby Islands, is i safe pass^.ge
running 6 miles in a W.N.W. and N.W. direction. It is a mile wide at its
southern entrance, gradually increasing to the N.W. as it opens into tho
Strait of Georgia. The general depth of water is from 24 to 30 fathoms,
shoaling to 16 fathoms on either side within 2 cables of the shore. Coming
from the southward. Yellow Island marks the western entrance point, while
Mount Geoffrey, a remarkable flat-top hill, 1,070 ft. high, on Hornby Island,
rises over the eastern side of the channel ; either of these may be steered
for until approaching the entrance, when W.N.W. is a mid-channel course
througli.
On Hvi eastern side is Norris liock, of considerable extent at low tide, but
^J 1
noUNBY ISLAND— CAPE LAZO.
479
nt hi^h tide, a mere patch 5 or 6 ft. above water; it lies N.E. J N. IJ mile
from Yellow Islaud.
The eastern side of Lambert Channel, between Norman Point and Shingle
Spit, a distance of 2 miles, has two groups of covering rocks, extending nearly
2 cables off, and the shore should not be approached within a quarter of a mile.
Shingle Spii is a remarkable low point on the eastern side of the channel,
2 miles within Norman Point.
Off the North end of Hornby Island stands a remarkable boulder rock,
7 or 8 ft. high, with smaller ones near it, and vessels should not approach the
sliore in this neighbourhood within a long half mile, at which distance there is
7 to 10 fathoms.
Tribune Bay, on the S.E, side of Hornby Island, affords good anchorage
with all but easterly or south-easterly winds, to whica it is quite open. It is
easy to enter or to leave, and conveniently situated as a stopping-place for
vessels bound either way, being 35 miles West of Nanaimo, and 40 miles cast-
ward of Cape Mudge and the entrance of Discovery Channel.
The eastern end of Hornby Island terminates in a rather remarkable point,
called St, John, grassy, and bare of trees. Off it, in a S.S.E. direction, are
two or three small low islets. Some reefs which generally break extend
nearly half a mile outside the islets ; these should be given a berth, and it is
not recommended to pass nearer than half a mile to the N.E. coast of Hornby
Island.
The outermost of the dangers off the West point of Tribune Bay, id a
l-(i\thom rocky patch, called the Nash Jiatik, which must be carefully avoided.
It is a quarter of a mile in extent, and lies N.E. by K. nearly a mile from
Point Downes, the western entrance point, and S.W. by S. from the largest
and outermost of the low islets off Point St. John. With a leading wind it is
recommended to pass the eastern side of the b.iy within a short half mile, and
to steer up for the white sandy beach as soon as it is open, anchoring with the
eastern bluff of the bay bcarin}^ 1''. by N. JJ N., 3 or 4 cables from the eastern
shore, in 9 fathoms, sandy bottom. There is anchorage, if desu-cd, in 4
fathoms, much closer in.
CAPE LAZO will bo seen after passing the eastern end of Hornby Island,
from which it bears W.N.W., distant 15 miles. It is a remarkable salient
point about 250 ft. high, flat and grassy on its sunmiit, but wooded behind, and
falling abruptly to the sea in yellow clay cliffs. Although a bold-looking
headland, shoal water extends a considerable distance off, and it is recom-
mended not to approach its eastern and S.li. sides nearer than 2 miles, as only
4^ fathoms, uneven bottom, is found at the distance of 1 J mile.
Mittlenatch Island, at 1(3 miles N.W. of Cape Lazo, is half a mile iu
extent, 200 ft. high, bare and peaked. Between it and the Vancouver Island
shore, distant nearly G miles, is the fair channel to Cape Mudge and Discovery
Channel.
(l»V»
',><14
1':%:
' .; •■ i-nu .'IT
■^^•1,1^
'■^'i'-i\
i
480
VANCOUYEIt ISLAND, ETC.
Oyster Bay. — From Cape Lnzo the coast trends W.N.W., is moderately
high, and slightly indented with boulder beaches, which makes boat landing
attended with danger xinless in very calm weather. At the distance of 15
miles is Kuhtiahan Point, the southern extreme of a large but not very deep
indentation, named Oyster Bay ; Shelter Point, nearly 4 miles W.N.W. from
Kuhushan, is its northern extreme. There is fair anchorage in 10 or 12
fathoms in this bay for vessels waiting wind or tide. A reef extends half a
mile eastward of Shelter Point. At 4 miles north-westward of Oyster Bay is
the entrance to Discovery Passage.
CAFE MUDGE is one of tliosc peculiar headlands so frequently met with
on this coast, and resembles Point Roberts and Capo Luzo, except that the
yellow clay cliff which forms its face is more covered with vegetation. The
cape is between 200 and 300 ft. high, flat, and wooded on its summit, falling
to the westward as it enters Discovery Passage with a low boulder point. The
high land of Valdcs Island appears behind it from the south-eastward. A
boulder beach extends in a semi-circular form from it to the eastward, and at
the distance of 2 miles in this direction the depth is not more than 5 fathoms.
The western low part of Cape Mudgo should not be brought westward of
W.N.W. in entering or leaving Discovery Passage.
DIEECTIONS.— The southern shore of the Strait of Georgia, with its an-
chorages and smaller channels, having been now described, a few remarks will
be offered on the navigation of the main strait.
From the coast of Oabriola Island abreast Nanaimo, to the opposite shore of
the continent, about Burrard Inlet, the width of the strait is 14 miles, the
navigation free from danger, and the strength of the tide between I and 2
knots an hour. Coming from the southward, Mount Shepherd, on the South
end of Texhada Island, is a very remarkable object, and shows as a high
solitary peaked island standing in the middle of the strait ; it is 2,900 ft. iu
elevation, and is plainly seen in clear weather more than 30 miles off.
Proceeding westward, the long and comparatively low island of Lasqueti
rises above the horizon, its singular bare turret-shaped summit, 1,000 ft. high,
presenting an unmistakeable feature. The Ballinac, and snxaller islands west-
ward of them, will now soon be made out. When abreast the former, the
width of the channel contracts to 4 m'.les between them and the small island
of Sangster, off the S.E. end of Lapqueti ; after which it opens out again to
7 miles, and the rather remarkable flat-topped Mount Geoffrey on the West
end of Hornby Island will be plainly seen. The southern coast of Lasqueti is
bold, with no dangers off it which are not seen, except Seal Socks, which
cover at half tide, and lie 1 J mile West of Sangster Island ; off its West end
are the small groups of Flat and Bare Islands, but no hidden dangers. False
Bay, which indents its West end, is exposed, and not recommended as an
anchorage.
iSislert Itlets are the next remarkable objects ; they are two small black
THE STRAIT OF GEORGIA-HOWE SOUND.
481
rocks 10 ft. above high water, S.W. by S. from the West point of Lasqueti,
with a deep water channel over a mile wide between them and Flat Islands.
When abreast the Sisters, the main strait turns to the N.N.W. between them
and Hornby Island for 4 miles, and then resumes its original trend to the
W.N.W. The distance between the Sisters and Point St. John, the low bare
East point of Hornby Island, is 5 miles ; the latter, with the small islets off it,
should be given a berth of nearly a mile. The Sisters are bold on all sides,
but should not be approached too close in calm or light winds, as the tide sets
straight past them. Having passed Point St. John, the distance to the
entrance of the Discovery Passage is 38 miles. The strait maintains a
uniform width of 9 miles, until near Mittlenatch Island, or for 30 miles, the
only stopping places being Oyster Bay, already described, 4 miles from Cape
Mudge, and Gillies Bay, on the West side of Texhada Island. The shore of
Texhada Island is bold.
EK''M
end
alse
an
NORTHERN SHORE OF THE STRAIT OF GEORGIA.
HOWE SOUND was thus named by Vancouver after Admiral Earl Howe,
and was called Braze de Carmelo by Galiano and Yaldes. It is immediately
adjoining Burrard Inlet (page 464) on the North, and is an extensive though
probably useless sheet of water, the general depth being very great, while
there are but few anchorages. It is almost entirely hemmed in by rugged and
precipitous mountains, rising abruptly from the water's edge to elevations of
from 4,000 to 6,000 ft. There is no available land for the settler, and although
a river of considerable size, the Squawmisht, navigable for boats, falls into its
head, it leads by no useful or even practicable route into the interior of the
country. Copper has been found here.
The entrance is between Atkinson Point, the North point of Burrard Inlet,
and Gower Point, nearly 12 miles apart. The sound penetrates the continent
in a northerly direction for 20 miles, and although of such considerable width
for nearly 12 miles of its length, yet it is choked by soi:;, large and numerous
smaller islands, between which are several ship passages. Bowen Island, the
largest and easternmost, is remarkable, its highest summit rising to nearly
2,')00 ft., being round, smooth, and partially bare, unmistakeably pointing out
the entrance from any direction ; the island is 7 miles in length in a northerly
direction, and more than 3 miles in width.
Queen Charlotte Chani.el, the easternmost passage into Howe Sound, is
between Bowen Island and Atkinson Point ; Passage Island, half a mile long
only, but very prominent from the southward, stands in the centre of the
char-ne' and on either side of it is a deep water passage. A tide ripple is
Nurth Pacific, 3 (t
.S;'
'M
%
•ft'
■**''
t!
<82
BRITISH COLUMBIA, ETC.
frequently met with off Atkinson Point, caused by the meeting of the ebb
streams from the sound and Burrard Inlet.
Snuff Cove. — At \^ mile northward of Passage Island, and on the eastern
shore, is White Cliff Point, and opposite, on the Bowen Island shore, disiant
\^ mile, is a double-headed cove. Snug Cove, the southernmost of these,
though narrow, affords excellent anchorage to small craft in 9 fathoms, shel-
tered from all winds; Deep Cove, the northernmost, is larger, but with a S.E.
wind, when anchorage would be most required, a swell would set in.
Vessels bound to Port Graves, on the South side of Qambier Island, which
is the principal anchorage in the sound, should pass westward of Bowyer
Island between it and Hood Point, the North point of Bowen Island. The
latter is a rather remarkable low flat peninsula point, with a small high cliffy
island lying off it.
Bound up the sound by Queen Charlotte Channel, a N.N.W. course leads
mid-channel ; pass eastward of White Bock, Centre Island, and Anvil Island,
through Montagu Channel. White Rock is a small but remarkable islet, 30 ft.
high. Anvil Island is oval-shaped, and 3 miles long, and its summit, Leading
Peak, 2,746 ft. high, and very remarkable, resembles the horn of an anvil
pointed upwards. From almost all parts of the Strait of Georgia, this peak
appears as a most prominent object ; it is an excellent leading mark to clear
the shoals off the Fraser Eiver by being kept just open westward of Passage
Island, on a N. by W. J W. bearing.
Montagu Channel, 5 miles above Bowyer Island, and between Anvil Island
and the eastern shore, is a mile wide, and over 100 fathoms in depth, trending
first to N. by W. for 7 miles, when it runs to the eastward for a further distance
of 4 miles, terminating in a low delta, through which flows the Squawmisht
River. The sound carries its depth to the head and shoals from 100 fathoms
suddenly to 2 fathoms.
Collingwood Channel, to the westward of Bowen Island, between it and
the group of smaller islands which stud the centre of the sound, is the most
direct route to Port Graves. In entering both shores are steep and bold ; the
direction of the channel for 4 miles is North, its width about a mile, aud
the general depth varies from 50 to 100 fathoms. The small islands forming
the western side have no dangers but what are visible, except Passage Rock,
which lies almost midway between Worlcombe and Pasley Islands, and covers
at half tide.
Barfleur Passage lies to the westward of the central group of small islands,
between them and Keats Island. It is a safe ship channel, but not quite so
wide as the one last described. A rock, which breaks at low water, extends
li cable into the channel westward from the second of the islands in the
entrance. The passages between the small islands are not recommended to be
used unless by coasting vessels.
Shoal Channel, the westernmost entrance to Howe Sound, is between Keats
ebb
111 islands,
quite so
r, extends
Ids in the
Ided to be
leen
Keats
HOWE SOUND— GAMBIER ISLAND.
483
Island and the mainland of Gower Point. It is convenient for vessels coming
from the westward, and leads to Plumper Cove, a snug anchorage on the N.W.
side of Keats Island.
The South point of Keats Island, which forms the eastern point of entrance
to the channel, has a small but prominent and thickly wooded island lying
close off it, Home Island. From a little within this island a bar of sand and
shingle extends quite across the channel to the steep cliffs of the mainland ;
the greatest depth over it, at low water, is 15 ft., and that in the centre of the
passage, which is here half a mile in width. The width of the bar in the
centre is not over a quarter of a mile.
Plumper Cove. — Immediately after crossing the bar of Shoal Channel, the
water deepens to 20 fathoms, and two small islets, partially wooded, and
almost joined at low water, will be seen N.N.E. a mile off; between them and
the shore of Keats Island is iPlumpcr Cove, which is perfectly secure with
all winds, and however hard it may be blowing outside, it is generally a
calm here.
Thornborongh Channel is a continuation of tbe one just described, and
leads up the western side of the sound, between Gambier Island and the main.
Its direction after passing Plumper Cove is N.N.W., and at the distance of
6 miles is Woolridge Island, rather on the eastern shore ; the wider channel
lies westward of this island, but there is over 100 fathoms of water through
Latona Passage to the eastward of it. Passing Woolridge Island, the arm
turns to the north-eastward, and northward of Anvil Island leads to the head
of the sound.
Gambier Island, lying ir. the centre of the sound, immediately northward
of Bowen Island, is almost square-shaped, and 6 miles in extent either way.
On its western side rise two very remarkable cone-shaped mountains, over
3,000 ft. in elevation; the southern face of the island is indented by three very
deep bays or inlets, in the easternmost of which only is convenient anchorage
found. Port Graves, the easternmost of the three bays on the South side of
Gambier Island, is the principal anchorage in Howe Sound. It is about
8 miles from the entrance, and may be reached with great facility by cither of
the channels already described; its entrance will not, however, be very
apparent to a stranger, until closing Hope Point, which forms its eastern side.
At two-thirds of a mile within the entrance a shingle spit extends a short dis-
tance off the West side ; when within this spit there is anchorage anywhere
in 10 fathoms, but half a mile or more inside it, in 7 fathoms, is the best
berth.
The Coast from Gower Point, the western entrance of Howe Sound, trends
W. i S. for 18 miles to the entrance of Malaspina Strait, and is free from
danger. White Islet, a bare rock, 60 fi. high, lies IJ mile from the shore,
6 miles westward of Gower Point, and is remarkable, always showing veiy
white; there is deep water close to and inside it. At 4 miles N.W. of thi»
I
»:^l
m
V;?,}',
■■;*t^
M
1 1*', ;?
I';
484
BRITISH COLUMUIA, KTC.
islet the coast recedes and forms Trail Bay. There is a very marked drop in
the land at the head of this bay, across which, by a portage of 1,100 yards, the
natives carry their canoes into Secchelt Arm, one of the many arms of Jervis
Inlet. Trail Islets, four in number, lie something more than half a mile off
the western end of this bay.
Thormanhy Islands, two in number, almost joined, and upwards of 2 miles
in extent, are 18 miles from Gower Point, and form the S.E. entrance point of
Malaspina Strait.
TEXHADA or Favida Island, lying parallel with and on the eastern side
of the Strait of Georgia, is 27 miles in length, with an average width of scarcely
4 miles. Throughout its whole length stretches a ridge of rugged trap moun-
tains, wooded generally to their summits. At the southern end. Mourn Shep-
herd reaches a height of 2,900 ft. Towards the novthem end, the range
decreases in elevation, but there is scarcely an acre of cultivable land through-
out the island. Its shores are steep and bold on all sides, and the land rises
abruptly, except at the North extreme.
The only anchorage, and that merely a stopping-plaoe, is Gillies Bay, on
the S.W. side, nearly 18 miles north-westward of its South end. It will be
known by a remarkable white patch on its northern point. An anchor may
be dropped in 12 fathoms, at a quarter of a mile from the beach, but it is only
a stopping-place.
There are some deposits of rich iron-ore on this island, which are mined
and the ore shipped to the smelting works 1 1 Port Townshend. It has been
proposed to erect a furnace on the island, the coal for which could easily be
obtained from the Comox district, or Nanaimo.
LASQUETI ISLAND lies parallel with Texhada, at its S.E. end, and is
separated from it by a channel about a mile in width. Its length is 9 miles,
its average width something more than 2 miles, and it ic remarkable from a
singular turret-shaped summit 1,050 ft. high, called Mount Tremeton, rising
nearly in its centre. On its southern side are several boat coves, and in Tucker
Bay, on the northern, there is very fair anchorage, with some good land in
the neighbourhood. Songster Island, half a mile long, lies S.S.W. a mile from
Young Point, the eastern extreme of Lasqueti.
Jenkins Island lies 3 miles westward of Sangster, and close to the South
shore of Lasqueti ; Seal Rock lies about midway between. Sea Egg Rocks,
always uncovered, lie 3 cables off the West end of Jenkins Island.
STEVENS PASSAGE, between Sisters Islets and Lasqueti, is upwards of a
mile wide, and perfectly safe and clear. Flat Islands, on its eastern side,
should be given a berth of a quarter of a mile.
SABINE CHANNEL, between Texhada and Lasqueti Islands, is a good
ship passage 9 miles long, in nearly an East and West direction, with verj'
deep water ; its breadth at the western end is 3 miles, but several high conical
islands lying off the N.E. side of Lasqueti contract the width at the eastern
MALASriNA STRAIT-JERVIS INLET.
485
rood
krj-
lical
tern
end, in eorae parts to three-quarters of a mile. There is also a narrow but
deep channel, Jiull Patsage, to the southward of these islands, by keeping
close along the Lasqueti shore. Tucker Bay, on the North side of Lasqueti,
and equidistant from either end, is a very fair anchorage.
MALASFINA STRAIT is a wide navigable channel, separating Texhada
Island from the mainland. Its general direction is W.N.W. for 30 miles,
when it again enters the Strait of Georgia* between Marshall Point, the N.W.
extreme of Texhada, and Harwood Island ; its southern entrance lies between
Upwood Point, the S.E. extreme of Texhada, and the western of the Thor-
manby Islands, and is 4 miles in width.
Upwood Point is rugged and precipitous ; stunted pines grow between the
crevices of the bare trap rock, the land behind is more thickly wooded. Almost
immediately over it rises Mount Dick, a very remarkable hump-shaped hill,
1,130 ft. high, and 3 miles within is Mount Shepherd, the highest summit of
the island. A covering rock lies 2 cables off the point.
Thormanby Islands, before mentioned, lying close to the mainland, and
appearing as part of it, terminate at their N W. point in a steep clay cliff, off
which, at low water, dries s boulder point. The Texhada shore is bold, and
almost straight for its whole length, fronted by narrow shingle or boulder
beaches.
JERVIS INLET f is one of the most considerable of those numerous and
remarkable arms of the sea which indent the continent of America from the
parallel of Fuca Strait as far as lat. 60° N. It extends by winding reaches
in a northerly direction for more than 40 miles, while its width rarely exceeds
1^ mile, and in most places is even less.
Neither in a commercial point of view, as a refuge for shipping, nor as a
means of communication with the interior of the country, does it appear
likely ever to occupy any very prominent place, as it is hemmed in on all
sides by mountains of the most rugged and stupendous character, rising from
its almost perpendicular shores to five, six, and sometimes eight thousand feet.
The hardy pine, which flourishes where no other tree can find soil to sustain
• It was in ttiis part that Vancouver met, to his groat surprise and mortification, with
the two Spanish surveying vessels which had preceded him. Those were the brig Sutil,
under Don D. GHlinno, and the schoonor Mexieana, under Don C. Yuldes, detached from
the commiBsion under Malaspina, from whom, however, he met with the most polits and
friendly attention.
t Jervis Canal, or Inlet, named hy Vancouver after Admiral Sir John Jervii, is the
Brazo de Mazarredo of Gnliano and Valdes. Commander R. C. Mayne, R.N., attached to
the survey under Capt. G. H. Richards, made his way through the dense forest and thickets
between the head of Jtrvis Inlet and Port Pembtrton, on the Fraser River, in July, 1860,
the details of which arduous journey are given in his interesting work, Chapter IX. It
was thought that this might be a good route from the coast to the upper part of the Fraser,
but this journey dipp^llod any such a notion.
■"' '■•' • 'I . ■ :.: ■-■'.1; ■ I
T
I i'
;(, ;■
i!ll
li
t I
tl
I
I!i
486
BRITISH COLUMBIA, ETC.
life, holds but a feeble and uncertain tenure here ; and it is not uncommon to
see whole mountain sides denuded by the blasts of winter, or the still mora
certain destruction of the avalanche which accompanies the thaw of summer-
Strikingly grand and magnificent, there is a solemnity in the silence and utter
desolation which prevail here during the months of winter; not a native,
nor a living creature to disturb the solitude, and though in summer a few
miserable Indians may occasionally be met with, and the reverberating echo of
a hundred cataracts disturb the silence, yet the desolation remains, and seems
inseparable from a scene which nature never intended as the abode of man.
The depths below almost rival the height of the mountain summits ; bottom
is rarely reached under 200 fathoms, even close to the shore, and frequently
at much greater depths ; there are a few spots where vessels may drop an
anchor, but they are either open and exposed, with an inconvenient depth of
water, or from the narrowness of their entrance are only adapted to ntea men
or coasting vessels.
In the Vancouver Island Pilot, the various channels and shores are
described at length, but as there appears to be but little to interest general
commerce in this remarkable fiord, we shall make but brief extracts there-
from.
The entrance of the inlet is between Francis Point and Scotch Fir Point,
which are 12 miles apart in a W.N.W. direction. Nelson Island lies imme-
diately in the centre, and divides it into two channels, the westernmost being
the principal one.
Agamenmon Channel, the eastern entrance to the inlet, is 9 miles N. by W.
from Point Upwood. After running between Nelson Island and the main in
a general northerly direction for 9 miles, it joins the main channel of the inlet.
Its average width is little more than half a mile, the tides run from 1 to 3
knots, the depth of water varies from 50 to 100 fathoms, and it affords no
anchorage. There are three passages into Agamemnon Channel. The middle,
between Channel Islets and Pearson Island, and the easternmost between the
latter and Martin Island. The passages are about the same width, something
over a quarter of a mile, and have deep water. Vessels entering by the
western passage, or coming from the westward along the shore of Nelson
Island, must avoid Nile Rock, which covers at quarter flood, at a mile
S.W. by W. i W. from Fearney Point, the S.E. point of Nelson Island, and
the same distance West from the largest Channel Islet.
Pender Harbour is the only anchorage deserving the name, with a mode-
rate depth of water, to be found in the neighbourhood of Jervis Inlet, and its
entrance is so encumbered by islands as to render it difficult of accefs*- to any-
thing but steam or coasting vessels ; it immediately adjoins Agamemnon
Channel on the South, and lies E.N.E. three-quarters of a mile from Pearson
Island, indenting the coast for 3 miles in the same direction.
Vm Weitem Entrance of Jervit Inlet is between Alexander Point, the
JERVIS INLET— SEECHELT ARM.
487
South extreme of Ilardy Island, on the East, and Scotch Fir Point on the
West. The points are not remarkable, but the opening is readily made out ;
it is nearly 2 miles in width, and takes for a short distance a N.N.W. direc-
tion. Scotch Fir Point is rocky, and has two small islets lying close to the
westward of it, which, like the point itself, are covered with stunted pines.
Thunder Bay, formed on the western side, \^ mile above Scotch Fir Point, is
one of the few spots in Jervis Inlet where u vessel may drop an anchor, and,
being near the entrance, is likely to prove convenient.
Nelson Island, in the middle of the entrance to Jervis Inlet, is 10 miles
long in a northerly direction, and about 4 or 5 miles wide. The island is
mountainous, the summits ranging from 500 to 1,500 ft. in height. Cape
Cockhurn, its S. W point, is of white granite, about 80 or 90 ft. high ; a rook
lies 1 cable South of it.
Prince of Wales Beaoh. — Dark Cove, which affords a snug anchorage on
the West side of Jervis Inlet, within Sydney Islets, is 2 miles North of Captain
Island, and 12 miles from the entrance. Vancouver Bay, on the East side of
the inlet, 1 9 miles from the entrance, is about half a mile in extent, and of
square shape.
Princess Boyal Beaoh. — Deserted Bay, also on the East side of the inlet,
at the termination of Princess Royal Reach, and about 37 miles from the
entrance, is small, and affords an indifferent anchorage in its eastern part.
A valley extends from the head of the bay to the N.E., through which a trail
runs to the Lilooet Lakes on the Eraser River, and is much frequented by the
natives in the summer season.
Queen's Beaoh, — llie head of Jervis Inlet terminates in a patch of low
swampy land, through which flow some small streams ; it does not afford any
anchorage, there being 25 fathoms within half a cable of the outer edge of the
bank. A remarkable peak. Mount Victoria, rises 2 miles North of the water's
edge to a height of 7,452 ft., and is a very conspicuous object on approaching
the heod of the inlet. Princess Louisa Inlet, on the East side of Jervis Inlet,
5 miles below the head, is narrow, and about 4 miles long in an E.N.E. direc-
tion, with deep water.
Seeohelt Arm, the entrance to which is on the East side of Jervis Inlet,
1 mile North of Agamemnon Channel, is an extensive arm of the sea, pene-
trating the land for 1 7 miles in a south-easterly direction towards the Strait of
Georgia, and only separated from the latter by a low neck of land 1,100 yards
wide, forming an extensive mountainous peninsula to the westward, called
Seechelt Peninsula. A short distance within the entrance are some extensive
rapids.
Tides. — It is high water in Jervis Inlet, on full and change, at 6**, the rise
and fall being about 14 ft. Within Seechelt Inlet the rise and fall seldom
exceeds 6 or 7 feet.
Harwood Island, off the West entrance to Malaspina Strait, l^ mile from
ft
'
Hi
4R8
BRITISH COLUMBIA, ETC.
the continental shore, and about 3 miles N.W. of Point Murshull, U 2J miles
lonj; in a northerly direction, and 1^ mile wide, from 150 to 200 ft. hi{;b, flat,
and thickly wooded. There is deep water between the island and the shore.
Westword of Jervis Inlet, the North shore of Malaspina Strait runs in a
westerly direction for 1 1 miles, terminating at Gritf Point. For a considerable
distance inland it is low, and bordered by a sandy beach. There are no off-
lying dangers that are not seen. From Grief Point the North or continental
shore of the Strait of Ooorgia runs in a W.N.W. direction for nearly 20
miles almost straight to Sarah Point, the S.E. entrance point of Desolation
Sound.
Savory Island, nearly 6 miles W.N.W. of Harwood Island and I mile from
the continental shore, is 4 miles long in a W.S.W. direction, but narrow. A
sandy beach, strewed with huge boulders, surrounds it, and extends a con-
■iderable distance off its North and West sides, which should not be approached
nearer than half a mile. The height of the island varies from 80 to 120 ft.,
aid the South side is faced by sun. 3 remarkable white sandy cliffs, very con-
spicuous from the S.E. Its East extreme is a granite cliff, steep-to. A
sandy bar or ledge, of 1 to 2 fathoms water, extends from its West point to
Hernando Island. Hurtado Point, on the main abreast Savary Island, is about
250 ft. high, bold and cliffy.
Mystery liock, about 2^ miles S.E. i E. from the East end of Savary Island,
is of small extent, uncovers 4 ft. at low water, and lies near the South end of
a shallow bonk extending from the it >d. Vessels, therefore, in navigating
this locality should observe great cautiou "oing between Savory and
Horwood Islands, but by keeping within half a lu.. "' the continental shore
this danger will be avoided.
Bagged Islands, close to the continental shore, and running parallel to it,
are a rocky group of small islands 2i miles long ; their S.E. part is about 2J
miles N.W. of Hurtado Point, and some rocks extend 4 rabVs from their N.W.
extreme. White Islet, a mile to the S.W. of them, is a verr i' morkoble bare
white granite rock, about 70 ft. high. A rock, which unooverft at low water,
lie" 1 cable East of it.
Sarah Point, at 20 miles W.N.W. of Malaspina Strait, may be colled the
N.W. entrance point of the Stroit of Georgio. It is a rounding rocky point,
sloping gradually to the sea from a height of about 700 ft., a short distance
within it. The coast here turns shor^jly round to the eastward into Malaspina
Inlet.
Hernando Island, 2 miles West of Savary, with which it is connected by
the shoal prjviously described, and 3 miles N.N.E. of Mittlenatch Island
(page 479), is about 2 miles in extent, flat, thickly wooded, and from 120 to
170 ft. high. A ledge, composed of sand and huge boulders, extends two-
thirds of a mile from its S.E. point. Staff Bay, on the North side of Hernando,
LEWIS CHANNEL— DESOLATION SOVNlJk
489
khe
[nt,
ice
lina
affords anchorngc, and is useful as a stopping-place for vessvls bound to Bute
Inlet or Desolation Sound.
Baker Passage, tu the northward of Ilerunndo Island, and loading from the
Strait of Georgia to tho entrance of Desolation Sound, is about 3 miles long in
a north-easterly direction, and 1 mile wide in the narrowest part, being
bounded on the North side by Cortes and Twms Islands. Tho only danger in
at its N.W. entrance point, off which a boulder ledge extends upwards of 3
cables in a south-easterly direction. Centre Sock, which covers at a quarter
flood, is in tho middle of the passage between Twins Islands and Cortes.
Blind Creek, on the East side of Cortes Island, 1 ^ mile North of Twins
Islands, is a basin of about 4 cables in extent, but useless as on anchorage.
LEWIS CHANNEL, off the entrances to Desolation Sound, between Cortes
and Iledonda Islands, to tho westward of tho latter, runs nearly straight
upwards of 12 miles in a north-westerly direction, and varies in breadth from
I milo to 3 cables, widest at tho S.E. part ; its shores arc generally rocky, low
in tho South part, but rising gradually to *,ho N.W., steep-to, and everywhere
free from danger ; no directions arc necessary for navigating it.
Squirrel Cove, on the West side of Lewis Channel, 4^ miles from Turn Point,
the S.W. entrance point, is a small landlocked basin of 6 to 7 fathoms water,
with room for a vessel of considerable size to lie at single ai. chor. It is entered
by a narrow passage about 180 ft. wide. Squirrel Cove can only be entered by
Bteamers or sailing vessels with a fair wind, and the chart is the best guide.
There are no dangers whatever within or near it.
Northward of Squirrel Co' the West side of Lewis Channel becomes more
rocky, and gradually incrcob. in height ; it takes a northerly direction for a
mile to Junction Point, and then trends to the N.W. for 7 miles, the channel
ending at Bullock Bluff, the North extreme of Cortes Island.
Einghorn Island, in the South entrance to Desolation Sound, and forming
the S.E. point of entrance to Lewis Channel, is about 2 miles in circum-
ference, and from 400 to 500 ft. high ; it is cliffy, and steep-to on the S.W. or
channel side.
DESOLATION SOUND, which may be considered as the head of the Gulf
of Georgia, is occupied by a numerous archipelago of islands of various sizes.
Point Sarah, on the South side of the southern entrance, is also the point
where the coast turns to the eastward, and forms an arm, called by the Spanish
surveyors before alluded to, and who here formed a portion of the surveying
party with Vancouver, the Brazo de Malaspina. The latter leads in a S.E.
direction, almost parallel with, and 2 or 3 miles from, the northern shore of
the gulf to the distance of about 8 miles, with a smaller branch near the
middle, extending about 3 miles from its northern shore to the N.N.E.
From the mouth of this inlet the continental shore continues in an easterly
and N.E. direction, and for 6 miles ia much indented; and several small
Nu,-th Pacijie. 3 u
m}^yv
•it.
• '''*:*• it ""
■'"IP
• %'.■■
I^
m
t
i i
I !
il
\
1
i
■9 ^
t
)
IR '
i
m
! i
m
I:
iN
ill'
!
Ili!
490
BRITISH COLUMBIA, ETC.
islands and rocks lie near it to the lat. of 50° 9' N., where they disappear.
Between these islands and the large island on the opposite side is the enti-ance
to Horn/rat/ Channel, which from hence trends in a curve to the N.N.W. for
about 13 miles, being very deep, and from 1 to 2 miles in width. Brettell Point,
on the North eide of the northern end of Homfray Channel, forms the East
point of the Brato de Tola, the entrance of which, about 2 miles wide, has two
small islets in it. This apm extends in an irregular N.E. direction to the lat.
of 50° 30', where it terminates in shallow water and a little low land, through
which flow two small rivulets. The country presents one desolate, rude, and
inhospitable aspect, and was nearly destitute of inhabitants.
From the northern end of Homfray Channel, Bryce Channel trends to the
westwcrd, and is connected with Calm Channel, leading to Bute Inlet, by
passages on either side of Haza Island.
SUTIL CHANNEL. — This extensive channel, which leads from the western
part of the Strait of Georgia to the entrances of Toba and Bute Inlets, is
bounded on the East side by Cortes, and on the West by Valdes and Ecad
Islands. Its length in a northerly direction is 15 miles, and the breadth at its
entrance to the Strait of Georgia 6 miles, decreasing to 1 mile in the northern
part. The soundings in mid-channel are deep, though there are several dangers
off both shores near the southern parts, but northward of Mary Island it is
quite clear.
There are several good anchorages on either side, two of which. Drew Har-
bour and Carrington Bay, are easy of access to all vessels, and useful as stopping-
places.
The tides in the Sutil Channel are weak, seldom exceeding 2 knots. The
flood stream runs to the northward from the Strait of Georgia. It is high
water, on full and change, at &, and the rise and fall is 12 ft.
CORTES ISLAND.— The West side of this island, which forms the eastern
boundary of Sutil Channel, is gcnerully low, and indented by several bays and
creuks, in many of which good anchorage may bo found. Off Reef Point, its
South extreme, a ledge, composed of sand and boulders, extends three •■q[unrter3
of a mile, and covers at three-quarters flood.
Gorge Harbour, the entrance to which is on the West side of Cortes Island,
4J^ miles N.N.W. from Eeof Point, is 2 miles long in a westerly direction, and
1 mile broad at the widest part, affording good anchorage in 9 to 12 fathoms.
The entrance to it is through a narrow gorge nearly hulf a mile long, boimded
on cither side by steep clilfs about 200 ft. high, and less than 40 yards wide in
some places, willi fathoms in the shoalest part. The tide runs through it fronx
3 to 4 knots. The best and most convenient anchorage is in the West part,
about hall' a mile from the entrance.
In entering Gorge Harbour, which can ouly be done with a favourable tide,
unless in a steamer, after passing Guide Islets, steer boldly up the gorge or
entrance , and take care, on nearing its North part, to pass between Tide Islet
SUTIL CHANNEL— DREW HAEBOUR.
491
llnnd,
I, aud
icm8.
[udod
Idc in
from
(part,
tide,
go or
llslct
and the West shore, theprssage East of the islet being shoal, when haul to the
N.W., pass on either side of Bee Islets, and anchor in from 10 to 12 fathoms,
muddy bottom, 1 or 2 cables to the westward of them.
JUary Island, on the East side of Sutil Chunncl, about 3 miles N.W. by
W. J W. from Eeei' Point, is of a roimd shape, about 6 mi'es in circumference,
and from 70 to 150 ft. high ; extending upwards of a mile in a S.S.E. direction
off its South point is a ledge about 2 cables wide, called the Boulder Reef,
which covers at high water. Camp Island, off the We-t extreme of Cortes
Island, and 7 miles from Reef Point, is of small extent, aud wooded ; between
it and C.Ttes Island is Plunder Pass, about 3 cables wide, deep, and clear of
danger.
Carrington Bay, on tho N.W. side of Cortes, about 3 miles from Centre
Islet, is a mile deep in an easterly direction, about 3 cables wide, and affords
anchorage at a distance of 3 cables from ita head. Von Donop Creek, tho
entrance of which is 5^ miles from Centre Islet, is long and narrow, penetrating
Cortes Island in a south-easterly direction for upwards of 3 miles. There is
good anchorage in 5 to 6 fathoms near its head, but the entrance being only 30
yards wide in some places, a vessel should not use it as a stopping-place.
VALDES ISLAND.— Capo Mudge, the South extreme of Valdcs Island, and
the S.W. entrance point of Sutil Channel, has been described in page 480. A
bank extends in a south-easterly direction for some distance from the cape, and
until well inside the channel the cape ought not to be approached within 2
miles. The coast of Valdes turns sharply round the cape to the N.N.AV., run-
ning in a straight direction for 3^^ miles.
Drew Harbour, on tho East side of Yaldes, G miles from Cape Mudgc, is
about 1 mile deep, 3 to 4 cables wide, and rendered perfectly secure, and locked
by a narrow strip of land called Rebecca Spit, which forms its eastern boundary.
The anchorage, in 9 to 15 fathoms, sandy bottom, at a dist.incc of half a mile
from its head, is tho best in Sutil Channel ; its shores ore low, and bordered by
u sandy beach.
Ilyacinthc Bay, on Valdcs Island, and Ij mile N.W. of Drew Harbour, is of
small extent, with from 10 to 20 fathoms water, but allbrds no anchorage.
Open Bay is half a mile North of Ilyacinthc Bay, and separated from it by a
rocky point. A vessel should not anchor thore.
Hoskyn lalet, formed between Read and Valdcs Islands, on tho East side
of the latter, is 7 miles long in a northerly direction, with an average breadth
of two-thirds of a mile. The shores are broken and rocky, with some small
islands off the South entrance and along the East side, and thero is no anchor-
age within it, except for small craft.
READ ISLAND, bordering the West side of the N.W. part of Sutil Channel,
18 9 mileslong in a northerly direction, and from 1 to 3 miles broad. Its sout'iern
part is low, but rises gradually to the northward to 1,000 it. in some places.
■I
n
.iU.
M-
fi-'^'i^
■:l\
■am
Ill I
II
IP
I < I
!iili '•
492
BRITISH COLUMBIA, ETC.
Vi'ner Point, its South extreme, is bare, and about 40 ft. above high water ; it
lies 7 miles North of Cape Mudge.
Bnrdwood Bay, on the Kast side of Read Island, 2 miles from Viner Point,
is about a mile wide, 2 to 3 cables deep, ond contains several small islets.
There is 12 fothoras at a short distance off shore, in its North and South parts,
where a vessel may stop in fine weather, but the bay is open to the Soutb and
East.
Evans Bay, the next inlet on the East side of Bead Island, to the northward
of Burdwood Bay, is about 3 miles long in a northerly direction, 1 J mile wide
at the entrance, and branches off in two narrow arms near its head. Its shores
arc rocky and much broken, and there is no anchorage except in Bird Cove, on
the West shore, where small craft may find shelter. Frederick Point, the N.E.
point of entrance to the bay, is bold, and may be approached to 1 cable.
Hill Island, just outside the entrance of Evans Bay, is of small extent, but
conspicuous from its centre, 490 ft. high. The shores are rocky, and may be
approached to a quarter of a mile.
Fenn Islands, near the middle of Sutil Channel, to the northward of Evans
Bay, cover an extent about 1 J mile long and 1 mile wide. They are rocky,
covered with stunted trees, and their greatest elevation is about 270 ft. A
vessel should not venture among them, but there is a clear passage on their
East and West sides.
Directions, — Entering Sutil Channel from the Strait of Ooorgia, pass within
half a mile on either side of MIttlenatch Island, and steer N.W. by W. or
N.W. J W. for the entrance, taking care to keep the North side of Texhada
Island open westward of Hernando and Savary Islands E. by S., until Camp
Island opens West of Mary Island, N.N.W., to clear the reefs extending off
ttie South points of Cortes and Mary Islands (p. 491) ; when clear of the latter
danger, haul more to the northward, .steering about N.N.W. or N.W. by N.,
liiiti ^.u, ing about a quarter of a mile westward of Centre Islet, steer up mid-
ahr •' : ., going, as most convenient, on eitlicr side of Pcnn Islands.
... vessel may beat through this channel, but till past the dangers in the
South part it would not be prudent to near the West sides of Cortes and Mary
Islands within 1 J mile in standing to the eastward ; and in standing towards
Cape Mudge do not approach it within 2 miles, or bring Mittlenatch to the
eastward of E. by S. ^ S., until the cape bears S.W., when a vessel may stand
to half a mile of the Valdes shore. If intending to anchor, Drew Harbour and
Cnrrington Bay arc easy of access for any class of vessel, and but littli out of
the regular track.
Calm Channel, to the North of Lewis and Sutil Channels, leading from tliom
to Bute Inlet, is 9 miles long in a N.W. by W. direction, and about 1 mile
broad ; its shores rise abruptly to a great height, are everywhere clear of danger,
and the tides weak, except in the N.W. part. This chaunei is not well a lapted
i
for any vessels except steamers, as there is generally but little wind, and no
anchorage. No directions are necessary for navigating it.
Stnart Island, at the northern termination of Calm Channel, and in the en-
trance of Bute Inlet, is about 4 miles in extent, of an undulating surface, rising
in some parts to 800 and 1,000 ft. Its shores are rocky and clear of danger.
BUTE INLET. — This extensive arm of the sea, which penetrates the conti-
nent for nearly 40 miles in a winding course to the northward, presents many
similar features to Jervis Inlet, the gerieral breadth varying from 1 to 2 miles,
and the shores on either side rising a'jruptly and almost precipitously, in many
places to stupendous mountains from 5,000 to 8,000 ft. high, whose summits
are generally covered with snow all the year round. At the head are two ex-
tensive valleys, one penetrating to the N.W., and the other to the S.E., from
whj -h I'uw streams; the one to the westward, called by the natives //oma/Ao
/.!"• / ■'vigable for a long distance by boats and stern- wheel steamers of
a,;iit c if aught. Off these rivers some sand-banks extend a short distance,
affording indifferent anchorage near their outer edges; but the soundings
everywhere else in the inlet are very deep. The water for some distance from
the head is nearly fresh, and of a milky white appearance. In the summer
months there is a constant outset, varying in strength from 1 to 2 knots.
A direct route from the coast to the Cariboo country, by the way of Bute
Inlet, was partially carried into effect in 1864, and a small wharf was erected
at the mouth of the Ilomalko River. These solitary posts are very dangerous
residences, and some frightful tragedies have occurred at them. The wholesale
massacre of the white occupants has been more than once perpetrated by the
bloodthirsty Indians,
Bute Inlet war. | "oposed by A. Waddington, Esq.,* as a terminus of a
railway and 8team-*>o:-.i, route between the North Atlantic and Pacific Oceans.
F. Whymper, K ^ , sL »i .i n interesting account of a visit to a great glacier at its
head.
Arran Rapids, at ' ''. 'j enirance of the inlet on the West side, between Stuart
Island and the contin^.t, ;o 1 cable wide in the narrowest part. The tides
rush through with grea , strength, the flood from the westward ; and it would
be very hazardous for * vessel to go through them even at slack water.
'\m
W.'
M
t Mr. Wft(ldinpr*on spent fivo years in procuring information respecting his proposed
intor-ocoanic routo. Ilia plan was to form a milroiid from Iho head of Uuto Inlet, througli
iho Cascad« P.iirrr • to the junction of the QuoanoUo Kivor with tho Frasor Kivor, adifitanoo
of 222 mUoB. -Vt. . country was (luito unknown till thus explored by Mr. Waddington.
From this pent .- ^h ■ Fraanr there is a direct route to tlio Carihoo country, and tho
Fmsor is navigab'.' • Wrtiis, 'or stoam-boats for 280 miles up to tho Leather or Yellow
Head Pass through the Kocky Mninfains; from thenco the routo towards Canada, liy tho
Sa.skatchawan IJiver, has Ixon well surveyed. Tho dctiiils of this plan are given in tho
Jourmil of the Itoyd Googniphiail Society, 1868, vol. xxxviii, pp. 118—128.
>;
494
BRITISH COLUMBIA, ETC.
i ill
lilt
'I*!'! 'i
Orford Bay, on the East side of the inlet, 19 miles from the entrnnce, is of
small extent. A small vessel may use it as a stopping-place.
Waddington Harbour, at the head of the inlet, being in fact its termination,
is about 2 miles in e.xtent, and affords an indifferent anchorage oU' the edge of
the banks extending from the Ilomnlko and Southgate Rivers, and off its East
shore. Except in the vicinity of the rivers, the land rises almost precipitously
to 4,000 and 6,000 ft., is most sterile and rocky, covered with stunted pines.
Homalko or Homathko Biver enters 'NN'addington Harbour on the West
side, ond is a stream of considerable extent, winding to the N.W. through a
largo valley. At the entrance is a bar with only 1 to 2 ft. over it at low tide,
but within the water deepens to I and 3 fathoms, llomalko River and Wad-
dington Harbour may possibly I r, ue places of some importance, as, from tho
sources of the former, an easy ro\ .. fceu discovered to the gold-mining
regions in the far North of British tV la.
In navigating Bute Inlet but few directions nro required, as the points may
be everywhere approached to half a cable, and, if intending to anchor in Wad-
dington Harbour, when nearing it steer for its North part, anchoring about
three-quarters of a mile off the head in 1 5 fathoms, and about 3 cables from
the high northern shore. The anchor should be dioppod immediately 16 fathoms
is obtained, as the bottom shoals rapidly.
Tides. — It is high water in Calm Channel, on full and change, at T"", and tho
rise and fall is 14 ft. In Bute Inlet it is high water at G*", and the rise and
fall varies from 12 to 14 ft.
DISCOVERY PASSAGE, formed between tho West side of "V'aKlcs Island
and tho Vancouver shore, is the only known navigable outlet from tho North
part of the Strait of Georgia to tho N.W., and was named after Vancouver's
sloop. Its length in a N.W. and S.E. direction from Cape Mudge to Chatham
Point is 23J miles, and its average breadth a little more than 1 mile ; but at
Seymour Narrows it contracts to less than half n mile. Its shores, southward
of the Narrows, are moderately high and apparently fertile, but northward of
them steep, rugged, and mountainous.
Tides. — Southward of Seymour Narrows tho stream runs with great strength,
from 4 to 6 knots at springs, and turna at high and low water by the shore. At
tho southern entrance, near Cupe Mudgo and between it and Willow Point,
heavy races or tide rips rage during the flood, which would be dangerous to
small vessels in blowing weather. It is high water, on full and change, at
5*" 30"", and the rise and fall is about 1 1 ft.
Northward of Seymour Narrows tho streams nro comparatively slack ; they
run from 1^ to 2^ hours after high and low water. At the Narrows it is high
water, on full and change, at 4'', and the rise and fall is about 13 ft.
In Discovery Passage, when to the southward of Seymour Narrows, tho
soundings in mid-channel vary from 30 to 60 fathoms, except at 1 mile
N.W. by W. riw.n Cape Miidgc, w'-ere a shoal patch of 8 fathoms exists. In
they
|high
the
I mile
In
DISCOVERY PASSAGE.
Seymour Nnriows, with the cxcejjtiou of Hippie Hock in its southern entrance,
the least water in mid-channel is 36 fathoms, but northward of them the depth
increases to 100 and 110 fathoms.
Cape Mudge, with the bank otf it to the S.E., have been already described
in p. 480. From it the West side of Valdes Island takes a north-westerly
direction, and at the distance of 3 miles is a small indentation named Qnathi-
asfcif Cove, bordered by a sandy beach. The cove is only fit for steamers or
small craft, and only affords room for one vessel to moor in its S.l',. and anotlier
iu its northern part. The land between Cain- Miid^o and (iualhiasky Cove is
about 100 ft. high, flat, and fertile. An Indian village of considerable extent
stands midway between the two places.
Oowlland Harbour, the next opening in Valdes Island, about 5 miles N.W.
of Cape Mudge, is of considerable extent, being upwards of 2i miles long in a
N.W. and S.E. direction, and a quarter to two-thirds of a mile broad. The
i best berth, if stopping for a Bhort time, is in G or 7 fathoms, about 2 cables
East of Vigilant Point, the N.W. extreme of GowUand Island. In the South
l)art of the harbour the water is deeper, and the anchorage more extended,
Otf the entrance is Steep Island, about 100 ft. high, 1 cables long, N.W. and
S.E., and 1 cable wide. GowUand luand protects the harbour to the S.E.
Entrance Hunk lies nearly across the entrance to the harbour, and partly dries
at low water. There is a clear passage on either side of it, with not less than
4 fathoms.
From GowUand Harbour to Seymour Narrows the coast takes a W.N.W.
direction, being steep-to, high, and rugged. Maud Island, the S.E. point of
the Narrows, is small, and about 300 ft. high.
Willow Point of Vancouver Island, the S.W. point of Discovery Passage,
lies S. by W. nearly 2 miles from Cape Mudge. It is low, covered with willow
bushes, and off it a sandstone ledge extends to the N.E. for nearly 3 cables.
In passing the point do not approach within half a mile.
From Willow Point a low coast runs N.AV. for 7 miles to Orange Point, and
is bordered the whole distance by a sandy beach.
Duncan Bay, of which Orange Point is the East extreme, is about half a
mile deep, and affords good anchorage in 11 to 7 fathoms, sand, well out of the
tide, and sheltered from all except N.W. winds. This bay is easy of access,
and the best anchorage so\Uhward of Seymour Narrows, aiul is a good place to
await slack water for passing through the latter. Good anchorage will be found
in 11 fathoms, with Ilace Point bearing N.W. by N., and the centre of Small
Island, iu GowUand Harbour, N.E. by N.
Menzies Bay, immediately S.W. of Seymour Narrows, is of considerable ox-
tent, running in a W.N.W. direction for 1 i mile, and three-quarters of a milo
broad, but in its centre is a largo sand-bank, which partly dries at low water,
with a narrow but clear passage on either side. Good well-sheltered anchor-
■l I
1
i
1) f
n ■
I >
iiriH
f'ii
496
BRITISn COLUMBIA, ETC.
age, in 5 to 6 fatlioms, may bo procured between this banic and the head of
the bay.
SEYMOUR NARROWS, ot 10 J miles N.W. by W. from Cape Mudge, oro
about 1^ mile long, from 3 to 5 cablts wide, and the shores on both sides are
high, rugged, and steep-to. Ripple Jtock, a dangerous rock, with only 2J
fathoms least water on it, was discovered in the Narrows ofter f)io survey had
been published. It is about 1^ cable in extent N.N.W. and . -I.E., and lies
almost in the centre, but rather on the western side, between Maud Island and
Wilfred Point, at 3 cables S.W. by S. i S. from the N.W. point of the island,
nearly 2 cables from the nearest laud of Wilfred Point, and near the heaviest
part of the tide-race. It is therefore dangerous for large vessels during the
strength of cither stream, and should only bo passed at or near slack water,
keeping on the eastern shore. In consequence of the contraction in brcadtli
of Discovery Passage, the tide rushes through these Norrows with great
velocity, nearly 9 knots at springs ; the flood and ebb streams run for nearly
equal intervals of 6 hours, a very short period of slack water intervening be-
tween thorn.
It is recommended to choose tho early part of a favourable tide to pass
through these Narrows, for during the greatest strength a boiling race extends
across, and steerage becomes very difficult. It is stated on good authority that
a vessel steaming at the rate of 13 '»nots has been unable to make headway, and
even to be set back, while attempting the Narrows at springs. The U.S.S.
IVachusett, passing through the Narrows from the southward with a strong
ebb, settled down in an enormous 'vhirlpool, and struck heavily on lli])pIo
Hock.
Tides, — It is high water in Seymour Narrows, on full and change, at about
3''. The flood stream (from the northward) commences about 10'' a.m. ; tho
velocity at springs is from 10 to 12 knots, and at neaps 6 to 8 knots. Tho
average duration of slack water is about 10 minutes.
Northwiird of the Narrows, Discovery Passage takes a north-westerly direc-
tion for 12 miles to Chatham Point, the shores becoming more high and rugged
than before. On the eastern shore are several bays or openings, but, with tho
exception of Phmiper Bay, too deep to afford anchorage. The western shore ia
nearly straight, and near Chatham Point arc Otter Cove and Elk Bay, both
ttflbrding anchorage.
Plumper Bay, half a mile North of Seymour Narrows, is about two-thirds
of a mile deep, and the same in width, alfording anchorage in from 11 to 9
fathoms, near its S.E. part, easy of access, well sheltered, and out of the tide.
Dcep-u'ater Bay, separated from Plumper Bay by a peninsula, is about 1 mile
deep, and half a mile broad, but too deep for anchorage.
Granite Point is a high white granite bluff on the western shore, at the
northern termination of Seymour Narrows. At 2 cables N,.W. from Granite
Poiat is a rock with only 9 ft. water.
M
li
DISCOVKUY I'ASSAGK— LOUGIIDOIIOUGII INLHT.
497
ly dircc-
rugged
rith the
I shore is
iy, both
lo-thirds
JH to 9
Ihc tide.
It 1 mile
at the
I Granite
Nodales Canal is an extensive opening running in a N.E. by E. direction,
between Thurlow and Valdcs Islands, to Cardcro Channel ; its western entrance,
which is upward of a mile wide, with deep water, is 1 J mile N.E. by N. from
Chatham Point. There are some tide-rips off it.
Cardero Channel, passing from Duto Iidet entrance, to the northward of
Valdes and Thurlow Islands, into Johnstone Strait, is very intricate, and
unfit for shipping, in consequence of the irregular dii'cction ond rapidity of the
tides, and the fjioat di'ptli of water.
LOUGHBOROUGH INLET, which runs to the northward, at the western
end of Cardero ' 'lannel, is one of those extensive inlets so characteristic of tliis
11 region. It cxtL-uds for nearly 17 miles inland, tliough in many parts not more
than a mile wide, between steep and nearly perpendicular mountains, from
who.so summits the di.ssolving snow descended their rugged sides in many
beautiful cascades. An islet and some rocks lie off its East point of entrance ;
and in lat. SC^ 33' it appears, in ascending it, to terminate, but this arises
from two interlocking points, as the inlet itself proceeds about 10 miles farther
northward, terminating in the usual low land. The flood tide hero varies
about four hours from what occurs in the Gulf of Georgia, an evidence that it
comes frvjm the North end of Vancouver Island.
Elk Buy, on the West side of Discovery Passage, at 9 miles N.W. of
Seymoiu- Narrows, is about 1 J mile broad, and three-fjuartcrs of a mile deep.
It affords indifferent anchorage, in 14 to 15 fathoms. A rock, which covers at
half flood, lies li cable off the shore, three-quarters of a mile N.W. of Elk
Hay. Otter Cove, on tlie West side of Discovery Passage, and just South of
Chatham Point, is a small but snug anchorage, completely sheltered from all
winds by Liinesiono Inland, in the centre of the entrance. If intending to
anchor here, pass North of Limestone Island, and anchor midway between it
and the head of the cove, in from 10 to G fathoms; a large vessel should
moor,
CHATHAM POINT, nearly 24 miles from Cape Mudgc, is the N.W. ex-
treme of Discovery Passage, and also separates it from Johnstone Strait. It is
n low rocky point, and at 2 cables N.E. froni its North extreme \» Beaver liock,
awash at low water; in rounding, the shore ought not to bo approached nearer
than half a mile.
Directions. — In proceeding through Discovery Passage from the southward,
if the tide bo favourable, a vessel has only to keep in mid-channel till past
Seymour Narrows ; but if the tide bo unfavourable, after passing Cape Mudge,
keep about 2 or 3 cables ofl' tlio eastern or Valdes bland shore, which is
8teep-to, and the tide here docs not run so strong. If uiiable to get through
the Narrows, Menuies and Duncan Bays afford good anchorages. The latter
ought to be preferred being easier of access.
North of Seymour Narrows, the tides being comparatively weak, a vessel
North I'avi/ic. 3 8
i ,'
Uii^
mt
1:1
ill
,1
I I
i /
: I Ii
Mllf .
I '
r
14 '
II
nil
t I
■I;
Hi '1 .1
Hi '
i
I
!l
i:!i;ii:'
1; I
498
BRITISH COLUMBIA, KTC.
may proceed either in mid-channel or close to either shore, except in rounding
Chatham Point, which should not be approached nearer than 4 or 3 ciibluii, to
olear BeaTcr Ilock. Plumper Bay affords a good stopping-place to a vessel
unable to proceed through Seymour Narrows from the northward.
Sailing vessels of any sIeo ought not to attempt to boat through southward
of tho Seymour Narrows.
JOHNSTONE STRAIT, which separates tho N.E. side of Vancouver
Island from tho main, is comprised between Chatham Point and Reaver Cove,
being about 55 miles in length in a W. by N. and E. by 8. direction, with a
varying breadth of 1 to 2 miles. Tbo shore on both bides is high and rugged,
more especially tho southern one, which may bo said to bo a continuous
mountain range, rising almost abruptly from the sea, the summits of which
vary from 2,000 to 5,000 ft. iu height, some of tho higher ones being clad iu
snow all tho year round.
Tho shores of tho strait are nearly everywhere steep-to, except a few spots
along the northern side, hercaf r described. From Chatlmm Point to the
West end of Thurlow Island thi (oundings in mid-cliannci are very deep, no
bottom in many places being found with l.'JO fail -is. West of llardwicke
Island it again deepens to no bottom at 150 and 17u fathoms.
Tides. — Everywhere in Johnstone Strait it is high water, on full and
change, at 0'' 30"", and tho rise and fall of tide is from 15 to 17 ft. Tlio
streams run from 2 to 2i hours after high and low water by tho shore, and
except in the vicinity of Ilelnicken Island, and to the eastward of Knox IJ.iy,
they are not stron;. In the former place they run from 3 to 7 knots, and in
the latter 2 to 4 knuts ; but in other parts of the strait they seldom exceed
1 to S knots per hour.
THUELOW ISLAND is on the North side of Johnstone Strait, to the west-
ward of Nodales Canal. Its South side, which borders the strait, is rocky, and
about 13 miles long in a westerly direction; the eastern half is indented by
bcvcral bays, off which lie some small islands.
EInox Bay, on the South side of Thurlow, and 7 miles westward of Chathani
Point, is two-thirds of a mile deep, and about the same in width, affording
anchorage in from 15 to 17 fathoms 2 cables from the head. The anchorage
is well protected from East or westerly winds, but it ought only to be used as
a stopi)ing-place for the night or tide.
Between Knox Bay and Nodales Canal lie the Pender Islands, which ore
very rugged and barren, the largest being 150 ft. in height.
Westward of Knox Bay the coast of Thurlow Island is almost straight,
running in a W.S.W. direction for nearly G miles, when it turns to the N.W.
Its shores are high, rugged, and stccp-to.
Bipple Point, on the South or Vancouver shore of the strait, 6 miles West
from Chatham Point, is steep-to, and between it and Knox Bay are some heavy
tide rips in blowing weather. Camp Point, DJ miles W. by S. J S. from
SnS3
JOHNSTONE STRAIT— roUT NKVILLK.
490
Ilipj)lc Point, elopes gradually to the sea; mid half a mile to the N.K. of it is
Jilpph Shoal, with from 7 to 9 fathoms.
Salmon Bay. — The coast between Uip])le nnd Camp Points runs in n
W.S.W. diroetion, curving sliglilly inwards ; and westward froni Camp Point
to Salmon ISay it is nearly straight for ij miles. Salmon Bay at high water
apjjcars of considerable extent, but affords no anchorage.
Hdmcken Island, lying 3 miles westward of 'I'liurlow Island, in the centre
of the strait, is IJ mile long East and West, and about half u mile wide, with
a clear channel of the same width on either side of it. The island is abwut
150 or 200 ft. high. Speaker Hock, which covers at onc-tpiarter Hood, lieH
2} cables N.K. from its eastern point, and is in the track of vessels using
Current I'assagc. liace I'usaaijc, to the southward of Ilelmcken Island, is half
a mile wide, but deep nnd clear of danger. The tide sets very strongly through
it. This is the passage generally used.
Hardwicke Island forms the North side of Johnstone Strait for 7 miles to
the westward of Thurlow Island, and is separated from the latter by Cliancellor
Channel, lending to Loughborough Inlet. Near its S.W. extremity. Earl
Ixtlije runs ofT for .3 cables, and only uncovers at low water. Two islets lie off
the West point of Dardwiekc, and outside them Fanny Reef, which covers or
is awash at high water.
Snnderland Channel leads between the const nnd the North shore of Hard-
wicke Island to Jackson liatj and Topaze ifarbour, where anchorage will be
found. The tides are here very violent nnd irregular, and the channel around
the island contains many stinken rocks and rocky islets.
Blinkinsop Bay, on the shore of IJritiiih Ccjlumbia, 2^ miles N.W. of Hard-
wicke Island, and 2.5 miles from Chatham i'oint, is about 1} mile deep, and
half a mile wide. This bay affords good nnchorngc, in 10 to 12 faliioms, about
one-third of a mile N,!). of its S.W. point, and is well slieltcred and easy of
access. A d-fatlioms shoal, marked by kelp, lies 1 cable N.W. by W. from
Tuna Point, the eastern point of the bay.
PORT NEVILLE, the next opening in IJritish Columbia, West of Rlin-
kinsop Ray, is of considerable extent, running in a north-easterly direction for
7 miles, and varying from one-quarter to 1 mile in breadth. It affords a
spacious and secure anchorage, but in consequence of (Jhannel Rock, lying
near the middle of its entrance channel, great caution is required in entering.
In the shoalcst part of the entrance channel there is not more than 2£ or 3
fathoms, and in the middle of its North part, .3^ cables S.W. i S. from Boulder
I'oint, is Channel Hock, of small extent and very dangerous, having only 4 ft.-
over it.
Robbers' Nob is a remarkable low grassy point on the North side of the
port, about 1 mile from Boulder Point; to the westward of it is a sboal bey,
into which flow some large streams. The best anchorage is about half a mil*
S.W. of the Nob in or 7 fathoms.
ifeil'?
'uM'i
'f »'i
n'^' ■■'■ W**-'v
T.
600
BRITISH COLUMBIA, ETC.
l: I
It is high wntor in Port NeTille, on full nnd change, at 0'' 30"*, the rise and
fall of tide being 17 feet.
The coost between Ports Neville nnd Ilnrvey runs in a W. by S. direction,
slightly indented. At 4 miles W. by S. i S. from the entrance of Port
NeTille, and one-quarter of a mile off shore, lies Slwipson Hcef, which covers
at half flood.
FORT HARVET, the next inlet westward of Port Neville on the North
Bide of Johnstone Strait, runs into the East end of Crncroft Islnnd in n
northerly direction for 4 miles, with a breadth varying from onc-(iuarter to
three-quarters of a mile, and affords good and well-sheltered onchornge in
7 to 9 fathoms, muddy bottom, at the distance of half n mile from its head.
From its head to the N.W. is a norrow gorge, which partly fills at high water
nnd joins Knight Inlet. The soundings in the entrance vary from GO to 80
fathoms, shoaling rapidly towards the head. Broken Islands, off the East side
of the entrance, are low, rugged, and of small extent.
It is high water in Port Harvey, on full and change, at 0"' 30"", and the rise
and fall of tide is 10 feet.
Escape Reef, lying 2 miles West of Broken Islands, ond half a mile ofF the
Nortli shore of Johnstone Strait, is about a cable in extent, has 4 ft. least water
on it, and is marked by kelp in the summer.
HAVANNAH CHANNEL, the western entrance of which is H mile North
of Broken Islands, runs in a north-easterly direction from the East side of Port
Harvey, connecting it with Call Creek. Its length is about 4 miles, and its
breadth varies from one-half to 1 mile. There are several islands within it,
which lie mostly in mid-channel. Boughey Bay, in the S.E. part of Ilavannah
Channel, is about 1 mile deep in a southerly direction, and half a mile broad.
A vessel may anchor in this bay at a distance of half a mile from the head.
Browning Bock, in the North part of Havannah Channel, about on i-third of a
mile North of Hull Island, has only 12 ft. over it, and lies nearly in the fairway
of the channel to Call Creek.
CALL CREEK, the South part of which may be said to commence at the
N.E. point of Havannah Channel, is an inlet of considerable extent, its length
in a north-easterly direction being 12 miles, and its breadth varying from one-
half to 1^ mile. The shores on cither side are high and precipitous, rising
abruptly to mountains from 1,000 to 4,700 ft. in height. The head termi-
nates in a low swamp.
Chatham Channel, the East port of which commences at Root Point, the
N.W. extreme of Havannah Channel, trends to the westward, connecting
these waters with Knight Inlet. It is not recommended to use this channel.
Copt. Vancouver's tender, the Chatham, a small brig, passed through this
channel to the westward in July, 1792, and the least water found was 3
fathoms.
Forward Bay, 3 miles W.S.W. from Port Harvey, is a slight bend in the
JOHNSTONE STRAIT— KNIGHT INLOT.
SOI
1.
coast of Crncroft Island, about 1^ mile brood, nnd three-quarters of a miln
deep, with a small islet 30 ft. high ofT its S,\V. point. ' Its shores arc mode-
rately high, and n bank extends nearly 3 cables from its head. This bny
affords good anchorage, in 14 to 10 fathoms, off the edge of the bank; in
entering it from the eastward guard against I'^scapc Beef. From Forward Bay
the northern shore of Johnstone Strait becomes comparatively low, and trends
VV. by S. for 15 miles to Weynton Passage, at the termination of the strait.
Boat Harbour, a small cove affording shelter to boats, is 6 miles westward of
Forward Bay.
Hanson and Cracroft Islands, between Boat Harbour and Weynton
Pc "igc, are low, with rocky shores, and are separated by a passage 1 mile
wide. The South side of Hanson is 3 miles long, and off its S.W. point aro
some rocks extending for 2 or 3 cables to the wcstword. Off the South side
of Cracroft, at the distance of 2 miles from its West point, are the Sophia
Jslels, of small extent.
For a steamer, or a sailing vessel with a fair wind, the navigation of John-
stone Strait is perfectly easy, it being only requisite to keep in mid-channel,
except when nearing Ilelmcken Island from the eastward, when a vessel ought,
after passing Thurlow Island, to keep within 3 cables of the southern shore, or
Camp Point, till past Hippie Shoal, which, from being marked with kelp, is
likely to have less than 7 fathoms over it. In the vicinity of Helmeken the
tides are strong, but not enough to stop a steam-vessel of moderate power. To
the westward of it they have no great strength.
To the northward of Hanson and Cracroft Islands are numerous islands and
islets lying in the entrance of the channel leading to Knight Inlet. Between
the East and North sides of Hanson Island, and the West sides of Cracroft,
Harbledown, and Swanson Islands, is Blackfish Sound, leading to the channel
northward of Malcolm Island.
KNIGHT INLET, the Brazo de Vernacci of Galiano and Valdes, runs a
little northward of East, to the latitude of 50° 43', when its width somewhat
increases, and it thence takes an irregular northerly direction, to its final ter-
mination in lat. 51° G' N., long. 125° 37' W. The shores of it, like all the rest,
are formed by high, stupendous mountains, rising almost perpendicularly from
the water's edge. The dissolving snow on their summits produced many
cataracts, which fell with great impetuosity down ih"ir barren rugged sides,
and gave a pale white hue to the canal, rendering its contents entirely fresh
at its head, and drinkable for 20 miles below it. This dreary region was not,
however, destitute of inhabitants, as a village was discovered a few miles from
its upper extremity. At 10 miles westw^ard of the point where Knight Inlet
turns to the northward, the head of Call Creek approaches the southern shore
to within about a mile, forming the western part into a peninsula.
At 1 1 miles W.S.W. from this isthmus there is a wide passage leading from
the North side of Knight Inlet, with two islands lying in its entrance. The
!
^ »,;/•>■
'V'X'l,
W-<*-i
'5?. T'
«*•■.
'^■H
»>■ *;i
4
i
'i:
,1'
1
i
1
Ht'
1
I : ;
j ! '
i
1 11
^i
1
1
!■ ^
'.'1
' .r
i
,
}
1
i ;
602
BRITISH COLUMBIA, KTC.
poswgc winds around Gilford Islnnd to the northward nnd westward for about
20 miles, having on the starboard or contincnt.il Hliorc two smaller inlets,
named by the Spanish surveyors the Drato de BalUer and Jialdinat, and now
named Thompson and Bond Soundi,
Deep Sea Bluff, the N.W. extreme of t.iis passage, and so named from its
appcarnnco nnd situation, is in lot. 60" 49' N., long. 120^ 30' W. The channel
itself is in some parts full l*" innumerable rocks and rockj fslcts, and in it the
tides ore very violent. The channel to tho S.W. from Dcop Sea IJlufT
separates two of tho larger islands of liroughton's Archipr'ingo, that to tho
northward being called Broughton Island, and ti.'^ southern Gilford Island.
It is about 12 miles in length, and was named Fi/e Sou:>d, Like all ihe rest,
it is very deep, and tho tides very irregular; on some days they were very
rapid, on others scarcely pcrceptille.
I'oinl JDtif, the S.E. point of Fife Passage, is tho West point of Eden Island;
n small rocky islet lies off it, covered with shrubs. I'oini Gordon, the ojjposito
point of entrance, bears N.W. IJ mile from Point Duff, and off it are several
white, lat, barren rocks, lying a little distance from the shore.
The land within this western entrance is not very high, composed of rugged
rocks steep to the sea, in the chasms an'l chinks of which a great number of
stunted or dwarf pines are produced. Some few natives also visit this part.
Between Deep Sea Bluff and the East point of Broughton Island ia an open-
ing leading to a series of channels, which insulate the latter. The first,
leading to the N.E., bears first to the N.E, and then to the West, forming n
narrow isthmus. Vancouver found n convenient station for procuring wood
and water, the only ia^iplies this dreary region affords, near the southern part
of this arm.
The shore of the main across this small opening from Deep Sea Bluff takes
a W. by N. direction for about 3 J miles ; and then turns to the northward to
a point where tho arm takes an easterly course from an island and several
rocky islets, forming passages for boats only to tho eastward, while to the
westward of the island, between it and Fotnt Philip, is a channel of about
2 n.iles in width, with some islets oiT tho latter. From this point an inlet
extends 7 miles to N.E. by N., where it branches into two arms, Wakeman
Sound to the N.W., and Kingcomle Inlet to the eastward. The latter extends
11 J miles to its head, in lat. 60° 56' N., long. 126" 11' W., when it terminates
in a similar way to the many before utsoribed. lis shores, about a mile apart,
are composed of steep, high, craggy mountains, whose summits are capped
with perpetual snow ; the lower cliffs, though apparently destitute of soil,
produce many pine trees, which seem to draw all their nourishment out of the
solid rock. From its southern shore a small branch, named Belleisle Soundi
extends about 3 miles to the S.W. by S.
Monnt Stephens, conspicuous for its irregular form and its elevation above
the rest of the hills in its neighbourhood, is in lat. 50" 58' N., long. 1 26° 40' W.,
BROUGIITON STIIAIT.
A08
M-
and Is 5,665 ft. liit;h. It will itcrvo ns an excellent guide to the entrance of
the various c>utnnulu with which this country ahounds. It stands on tho
N.W. side of tho inlet just described, and to tho N.N.W. of Point Philip.
From Point Philip, tho contincnttd shore takes a W. i S. direction for about
1i miles, forming an irregular channel, named Sutlej Channel, with the North
shoro of Broughton Island. At this point it becomes divided into several
channels ; Mackenzie Sound, that to the northward, takes u direction
N.H. by E. for 7 miles, terminating, as usual, at tho base of Mount Stephens.
This narrow and intricate passage is only adniisuiblo for boats, and appears to
be a chasm caused by some natural convulsion. 'I'hc stupendous mountains on
each side of it prevent a due circulation of the air, and exclude tho rays of the
sun, rendering it a most uncomfortable place.
Westward of tho entranco of this passage there is an excessively dangerous
channel, so caused by the innumerable rocks with which it is bestrewed, and
the irregularity of the tides, which runs first to tho West and then to tho
South. To the westward of this again, Drury Inlet leads for 12 miles to t' u
W. by S. ; there arc many rocky islets and sunken rocks in it, rendering
it gerous even for boats. Near its termination is a very narrow opening
I \orthern shore, winding 5 miles towards the N.K., and named Actaon
ooi...u, replete with overfalls and sunken rocks, and ending in a cascade,
similar to many others hereabouts. These arc perfectly salt, and seem to owe
their origin to the tidal waters, which in general rise 17 ft., and, at high
water, render these falls imperceptible, by the rocky bar being 4 to ft.
beneath the surface. Within a few yards of one of these cascades, a con-
siderable stream of warm fresh water was discovered. Vancouver found a
small Indian village on a rocky islet near this part.
From the mouth of the principal arm, and of that previously described, a
channel leads S.W. into the main channel, separating Vancouver Island from
the continent. It was named by Vancouver Well's Passage, and is about
8 miles long. The S.W. point, in lat. 50° 49' N., long. 127= 2' W., was named
Point Boyles ; off it lie some islets, and lioncc the continental shore runs to tho
W. by N. for 37 miles to Capo Caution, which may be taken as the limit of
Queen Ch.a-lotte Sound, the N.W. entrance of the very singular and extousivo
inland navigation we have been describing.
At 11 miles W. by N. of Point Boyles is Blunden Harbour, lying within
Bobinson Island. Its entrance, wiuch is 2J cables wide, lies between tho
East end of Robinson Island and Barren liock, 12 ft. high, and has a depth of
6 to 9 fathoms. There is anchorage in 4 fathoms, northward of the West end
of Bobinson Island.
BROUGHTON STRAIT, which connects Queen Charlotte Sound with
Johnstone Strait, is upwards of 14 miles in length, East and West, the breadth
varying from 4 miles at the East to 1 mile at the West entrance. Its southern
shore is formed by Vancouver Island, and the northern one b^ the South side
H'V
itm
m
4.U^
'KvU
! i
'i ! f
'"i
Ji
niUTISlI COMiMIUA. V.Vl'.
of Mnlrnlin loliinit, nml liolli. rxi'i'pl ni'nr llrnvor ( 'iiv<\ mo low. Tlicfo nr©
Hovoi'hI irilntiilR, rookn. nnil ulionln in llu' riiHti'iii piii I ; Iml n olrnr iiitvij^ahlo
]iiiH.rl I'ny m < 'oiiiicniiiif IhIiuuI.
7ViA». Ill llrotifrlilon Sduil it im lni;li wiiliT, on !\ill nml oliiui^(\ n< ()'' HO",
tho ri^o nnd full of liiio hoing II m- I '> I'l.
HiiftVnr Covo, i>( llic H.K. cxlioinn nf llrmnc'itmi Stmit. riiii« in njiwnnU of
n niilo III 11 Hdiilticilv iliii'cliiin, mul iw liulf ii miii wnl"; ili nli.ircH mo liigh,
mill (lii> ili'jilli i.i (no (rii'iil I'lir mii'liiiiMtri'. I'',m'i'1Iiii( in.iililo in roiitul lioro,
ncviniil (nun dC wliicli were ijiiiinioil nml (iiliiMi In \'ii'liiri!i. Monti/ /ln/ils-
u'l'iih, II ii'iiiiii Kiilil(> oimio.'il priiK, il.O(() fl. lii))1i, mul X'l y rniiN|iuiiniiiM (Vuiu
t!ii< I'li'ilwmil. li'ii'i .'t iiiili'.M lit lliM S.W. (»r (he covc'.
Nimpkinli lUvor, wlii^li (Inwfi inlo u hIihUciw Iwiy >>ii tlw> Snnlh ulinro. A luilcR
W(<'r t 'ovo, ri iipwiiiii'i nf ii I'lililo wtdo iil onti'mioo, wilii \'^
fillhotllH, lull only navigiiMo dir iiny tli"liitii'o liy omioim. A liiink ilrioH nil' for
nciiiiv II niilis li'iuiiifr u nminw cliniiiu'!, wilii iilmiit t> i\. wiilor, iiilo Jlio
i'iv(iip;lili)ii Stinil, nlioiil 10 iiiiloH Wont
fioiii Hoiivoi ('iivo, iiiiiM in !» W.S.W. iliroolion I'm- ',' huIob, ih (linv i|iiMiloi'fl of
fi oiilo tiioiiil. mill nlloniM ii fMinii, woll mIioIIoioiI mioliiir.'i^-<<, in (> In !l fiitlioniN.
l''loin I.rdj^o roiiil, (lio Noilli poiiil of I'lili iiiico, ii iimiow lodf^o willl M (o ft
fiillioiiin on i(, iiiii'i mil l''iN,l''.. Ij iiiilo, mid Kolp (;i o« m nvrr il in iiiiiiinirr,
h'.rl Ucel, lyiiii; !• ouliios S S \V. I'lnin l.iilfj;o {'01111, mid iilioiil ? ciildrii nlf (lui
Soilfli (ilioi(< of (III' |ii'l I, oovnii ill (liiiO <|il:u(ii': llood. 'I'lio ooil'if finiil I'nll
MoNrill rilliH iilioiil. VV.S.NV. i iiiiIcm. (o llio fiiliiinro of IJiircn ('liiiiloKo
Sound.
Woyiltoil PrrhRR'O. /Vhchc hUtnA^, in tiio milio of Kioiinlilon Slniil, ii(.
lis oiihIith onlrmioo, nro 11 f-Moiip of niiinll low mliiiid", willi iioino rookx i'\loiid-
ing II nIioiI diHlmioo Noilli mid S.lv of (lioiii. Wryiidm rdhjiiigo Im^Iwooi)
IIiiiiMin iitid I'oiliHO iHlmidii, 111 iilioiil I] iiiilo wulo, iind iiiiIohii wtiiitinp, In
nnolioi' ill Milolioll Miiy, if oiiglil iiol. to lio iimmI, llio tidi^ rufiliinp, tliroiip.li it iit
fioni *i to (> kiiolH.
/.'
/'ii.v,vii./c, liotwooii I'l'itrno mid ( 'oriiioriiiil. iHliiiidfi, in two tliiidn of 11
til
ilo wide, liiil II rook lion in mid oliiiiimd iit iln Suntli piul. 'I'lio pii)iniif;[o ii«
diiiigoious. f i'»>iiii»<»M^ lalitiul liiTi in tlio rontto of (lin nliiiil to |li«i W'i'mI. »if
I'l'iiino Irilmidii. It ill iilioul \M fl. Iiigli, mid VM niilt'ii Ioik', Miiiit mid Woiit,
(innloii I'oiiil, ill! S.M. r^troiiio,
'A"
\V. liy N. fioin I'.oiiyor ( "ovo.
Alort Hnyi on tlio Houfl. »ido of ('oinioiunl iHlmid, in iiomly 1
lllllO WKll
nnd liiilf II milo dorp, alloi'din^ 11 (.rood mid woll nliidti'ii'd miolioirigo in from
tl (11 ".» futlionin, lllllddy lioKoiii. ) rll<>tr fUuft, tho S.W. point of llio li«y, miiyr
bi< iiH'o^iiixod liy n rciiiiiikiiblo yellow i lill iil (lin cxtti'iiio of (ho point. A
npv
flo
Col
Noi
n
IU!or(illl«>N SIK.MI qiiKKN t'UAUI.oriJ' SOliNH, fto;.
jili'f, mii'liinn iiilo iit'oiH IV ti wmIit, oxIimuU iVmu tlio iiim (ImminIim ii hhmi' nf
(liiN Imj-. A ini|)|ilv ol' woml ('ill' fitriiiiiiti^ iitniiDHPd oan hp itblniiUMl. 'I'Uerp \h
n BttliiKin oniinf I _v lino.
Ihufiiiut/Om inlitfiii. 7 nvilr* W'cni of lloiivi'i Covr. in J.h«> or'tilrf of Itroiii^lilnit
Sliiiit, i« ■inilll. lis Soullt tiiiil \V<'nl NiiliH iiir Ht<'i>|i In. luil friiiii ll|i< tioi itiiMii
out' II lull, widi im lilllo H8 !t 1\. \vn(cr m »i>!uo jnuti. niiiB Hoioes tlio nUuit iiiiiiuiig olV (Vmn the North |iiiin(
of I'oi t MoNrill, '1 II |i!iNNii^i< dui'i' >|iiiiiti'in of h niilo \viil(\ Hi(li \\o( Icsb (luiii
7 fiillloiun wiiti'i III mill rl\tioni').
MALCOLM ISLAND, wludi f.>ni»i tlio Nordi ni.Io of Hvonnliion S(ini(, i»
l.'^i nitloH lonf{ W.S.W. mid IvN.l'. , widi iiii iivcni^i' Iinwultli of miiiiv 'i
iiiilrn ; (lie kIhhc-b mo jjiMdMiilly low, ii siuidy iioiioli oxlciiiliiig olf ii mImhI iIik
(iiiu'o from (lioiii On iln Sonlli hkIo mo .\ti/i'fifll i\iu\ lu>u>jh luiyx, in wlui'li
voMNrU ninv niit'lnn' in d or H fiulioniH l>,l tir-iui, iIh Vm-A poinl. I'l lunli.
cliHV, liotilonil liy It l)r!iol(. iinil llio liilo hoih udoiiii in \\t vnnufy Pukfiifi'ii
Point, on (Iw Sonlli »nli' of (tii< I'lliiin), in ronnrcd'tl 1)y ii l>m, uilh 11 l\ in
homo pmln, to llaililin^diii IhIiiuiI. I'onl ^iiininl, liuuUoil liy K(>l|i, r\lrililR oU
i(M wosd'in Hiiliv
1)1HKCTI()N8. In nnvifcntitim nron^;Iii«iii io ilni norHiwiiul
of Niili|iliiNli llmik, mill wlion llio \Vpn( poiilf. of ('oiniomnt InIiiihI Iioiun
N. liY I'" kIk' will lio wi^^lwiml of if ; (lion »(oi'i to luiiiiil lin' .'vW |inin( of
I liiililiii( North nlion- of t 'oiinoiiinl l»lmiil o|ii!.r
tho iiiiii'i w.'itnn Noilli nf \'mii'iiii\i'i li.l.nul «illi llio Piioiliiv It w,ii no
iimnoil liv < 'iijil S. W'oilglioroiifj.li, of tlio I'l/in inyriif, in IVMl), ||n |fMi(.>lll in
ii|i\viirilM of •'to miliTi. iiiiininp, in mi oiikti'ilv iliiii'lion, mnl it'< lirruilth vmion
t'liiin ID III VII ini1i<>4, liinn^ lioiiniloil on llio Noilli liy llio hIioion oI UmIimIi
( 'oliimliiii. mill on llio Nonlli Iiy tho No: III nIioio of \iiiiioiivoi |ril;inil In llio
Ninth mill N I'l. |iiirl-i mo iiinunioi'ilhli' nu-lin miil inimiilt. <>f wliioli lilllo ih ill
iilorii-iit Unown; liiif iiloiip, itn aoiitlioiii niiloN luo two liiuml mnl iiiivi^iililo
oIiiiiiiioIn to tho I'lii'itio
Hioli^litoit Slinil I'lilorn lliin noiiinl ill itn S.I'', piiil. I'loin tlioiKio (o
'I lioniiiH I'oiiil llio ciiiml ol N'mnoiivi'i niii'i \\ In ;\ loi !• inilim, mnl ii
low , It IM lioriU'loil tlio w,,olo ilidlmno \<\ ii lioiioll ooiii|iii,'■,, ij
I 4
I, "'■
If!
i
!l
l\
\h il ;
il
'! ''I
II;
■?;■.
.1 'il
a/!
«Aft
r.uiTisn coLUMHTA, i;t(;.
of Dillon Kock. Anchor on tho eastern shore immediately 14 fathoms i»
obtained.
Shingle Point, 2 miles West of Rliushartie Ray, is low, and n heach nins off
it a short distance. Westward of this point it is difficult to land, except in fair
weather.
CAPE COMMERELL, 22 miles West of Duval Point, is the northernmost
point of Vancouver Island, and the South point of the West entrance to Ooletas
Channel. The cape is low, and some rocks extend off it for nearly 2 cables.
There is an Indian village on the Kast side of the cape. Tho large bay east-
ward of the cape is not fit for anchorage.
Oordon Group consists of a number of small islands running in an East and
West direction for .5 miles, and bordering the North part of the East entrance
of Goletas Channel. They are high and steep-to, and on the eastern or Doyle
Island is Miles f'nne, a romurkable summit .'580 ft high.
Duncan Island, I mile South of the Oordon Group, is about a mile in cir-
cumference, and 300 ft. high. Chrintic. Passage, between the West side of the
Oordon Group and Halaklava Island, is half a mile wide ; its shores are free
from danger. Jlroioniug Passage, to the West of Balaklava Island, between
it and Galiano Island, runs in a north-westerly direction from tlie Ooletas to
New Channel. It is about 3 miles long, and 2 cables wide in the narrowest
part ; it is deep, and a mid-channel course through is free from danger. The
tide is very weak in this channel.
OALIANO ISLAND, the largest of the islands on the North side of Goletas
Channel, is of triangular shnpe, nearly 8 miles long, and 3J miles broad, the
base fronting to the southward. The shores are very much broken along the
North and East sides. Mount Lemon, a remarkable peak of conical shape
1,200 ft. high, rises near its S.W. part, and Port Alexander is formed at its
8.E. extreme. The South side of the island is high and clilfy.
Port Alexander, upwards of 7 miles from Duval I'oint, and on the West
Hide of Itrowning Channel, runs in a north-westerly direction for li mile, with
a general breadth of about 4 cables. This port is easy of access to steamers and
sailing vessels with a fair wind, and affords good anchorage in 12 to 1.'! fathoms,
half a mile from its head, well sheltered from all except south-easterly winds.
Shadwell Passage, in the N.W. part of Goletas Cl.annel, between Galiano
and Hope Islands, is 3i miles long in a northerly direction, and its breadth
varies from one half to 1 J mile. The soimdings in the South part of this
passage are from 80 to 100 fathoms, decreasing ranidly from 9 to 13 fathoms
to the northward.
J'ansittart Island, in the centre of the passage at its North part, is 1 mile
long. Some rocks and small islets extend 6 cables West of it. Willes Islaml,
at the S.E. part of the pnssnge, is steep-to, and may bo approached to a cable,
Centre Island, in the middle of the passage, and 5 cables S.W. from Vansit-
laJt Island, is small, and vessels may anchor 2 or 3 cables N.W, of it, shcl-
di
CI
OOLETAS CIIANNKI^TIOPE ISI^AND.
609
t-
l-
tcrtd from all but northerly winds. Suwanee Rttrh, dryiiifi; 4 ft. at low wiitcr
spring tides, lies nearly a cable W. by S. J S. from Centre iHland, rendering
the passage unsuitable for any but small vessels, with local knowledge. One
Tree Islet, 4 cables We.st of Vansittart, with rocks and foul ground between,
is small, about 40 ft. high, and ha.s a single tree on its suiniiiil, which is very
con.'pieuous when seen from the northward, and of great use in identifying the
pansage. Cape James, the N.W. extreme of Shadwell Passage, is a rocky bluff;
some rocks extend off it to the 6outhWii;'d for a short distance, and foul ground,
marked by kelp, exists between it and Turn Point.
The South peak of Magin Saddle (on the West end of Galiano Island) in
line with the East end of Centrj Island, bearing S S.E., leads through the
northern entrance of Shadwell Passage, passing half a mile East of Cape Jamcsi
and li cable West of IJrcaker Reef.
Shadwell Passage may bo used by steamers or sailing vessels with a fair
wind. It would hardly be prudent to beat a large vessel through it, as there
is generally a heavy swell and strong tide in the North part. It is the passage
usually taken by the Hudson Hay Company's vessels when bound North from
the inner waters. Vessels may pass either eastward or westward of Vansittart
Island, Hate Passage, the eastern passage, being deeper, and nearly straight.
HOPE ISLAND, the westernmost of the group which forms the North side
of Goletas Channel, is G miles long, East and West, and its greatest breadth is
3| miles. The island is moderately high, and its shores are very much broken.
The sea breaks heavily along its North and West sides, and oiT Mexicaua Point,
the western extreme, a reef extends 3 cables. The South shora is steep, and
may be approached to one quarter of a mile.
Bull Harbour has its entrance on the South side of Hope Island, 2 miles
from the western entrance of Goletas Channel. Though small, this harbour
afibrds a very secure landlocked anchorage. It runs in a northerly direction
for 1 J mile across Hope Island, its head being only separated from the North
■horc of the island by a narrow neck of low land, 403 ft. wide ; its breadth at
the entrance is 5 cables, contracting to 1 cable at half the distance from tho
head, after which it again increases to nearly 2 cables.
Indian Island, \i cable North of the narrowest part of tho entrance, is
small, but comjiletely shuts in the harbour to the southward, leaving a passage
1 cable wide, on its eastern side. The anchorage is to the northward of this
island, in about 4 fathoms water, but there is only room for one or two vessels
of moderate size to lie moored. If intcniling to enter Hull Harbour, steer up
mid-channel, parsing East of Indian Island, and moor immediately the vessel is
North of it, anchors North and South. Steamers, or only small sailing vessels,
should use this anchorage, as from its narrow and tortuous entrance it is rather
difficult of access to long vessels.
Nahwitti Bar, or Ledge, stretching across the West entrance of Oolctas
Channel, is of sandstone formation, and on the eostt^..^ udgo rises sudUcnl) fiuui
*' 'fli*' ■,( '
hI
_:„ ^ ^ :..^ ^titxta
510
BRITISH COLUMBIA, ETC.
B;f '! M
if !!
I ill
40 to 9 fathoms, the depth increasing very gradually to the westward. Its
breadth within the lO-fathoms line is from 1 to nearly 3 miles, broadest at the
South part, where are sercral shoal spots, called Talnall Reefs, with 2^ and 3 J
fathoms, at a distance of 1^ mile from the South shore ; northward of these
patches the depths vary from 6 to 9 fathoms. In heavy westerly gales the sea
breaks right across Goletas Channel at this bar.
Lemon Point, Galiano Island, open North of Shingle Point, Vanoourer
Island, bearing E. by N., leads over Nahwitti Bar in the deepest water from 7
to 9 fathoms, well to the northward of Tatnall Reefs.
NEW CHANNEL, to the northward of Goletas Channel, and separated from
it by the islands which form the North shore of the latter, is an extensive elear
passage to the Pacific Ocean, about 12 J miles long, with a breadth varying
from 1^ to 4 miles, Its depth in the shoalest part is 60 fathoms, near the
eastern entrance, and its shores, except near the West part of the Gordon
Group, may be approached to nearly half a mile ; the North limit of the chan-
nel is formed by Walker Group to the eastward, and a few low rocks and islets
to the N.W.
Generally a heavy swell sets through New Channel from the westward, and,
with the exception that there is more room for a large vessel to work in or out
than in Goletas Channel, there is no reason to use it in preference to the latter,
unless, if running in before a heavy westerly gale, the sea were breaking across
the West entrance of Goletas Channel at Nahwitti Bar. If the wind be fair a
mid-chaunel course, about W. by N., will take a vessel clear through it.
Doyle Island, the south-easternmost of the Gordon Group, and at the S.E.
point of New Channel, is three-quarters of a mile long, and, as before stated,
has a remarkable summit, 380 ft. high. Miles Cone, on its centre. Crane Islets
are small, 30 ft. high, and steep-to, there being 100 fathoms wnter at a cable's
distance. They lie 2^ miles westward of Doyle Island, and about 3 cables
North of Gordon Group.
£oi/le Island, 1 i mile West of Crane Islets, and half a mile North of Hurst
Island, is small ; at half a mile N.W. of it is Grey Rock, which covers at one-
quarter flood, and is dangerous to vessels beating through this channel. Crane
Islets just touching the North side of Gordon Group, E. by S. } S., leads nearly
half a mile North of it.
The North shore of Balaklava Island is rugged, and half a mile N.W. from
its N.W. point are three low islets, 6 ft. above high water, at the North en-
trance to Browning Channel.
The North shore of Galiano Island is also rugged ; some outlying rooks lie a
short distance of it, but it may be approached to one-third of a mile. The
northern shore of Hope Island should not be approached within half a mile.
WALKER OB0T7P, at the N.E. part of New Channel, from 2 to 3 miles
North of its South side, is composed of a number of small islands and rocks,
porering an extent of 6 miles in a westerly direction, and 2 miles broad, the
'^t
QTTEEN CHARLOTTE SOUND.
511
highest being about 300 U. above the sea. Among them are several small
creeks and bights, which would afford shelter to boats, or even small craft.
Castle Point, at the S.E. extreme of the group, is bold, cliffy, and stecp-to, with
no bottom at 60 fathoms 2 cables South of it. White Rock, at the South ex-
treme of the group, lies 2 miles W.S.W. from Castle Point, and is 4 ft. above
high water. Nye Rock, off the South end of Schooner Passage, at the West
part of the group, covers at high water ; it lies W. i N., 2 J miles from White
Rock, and may be approached to 2 cables on the South side, but large vessels
should not stand inside it to the northward.
Redfern Island, the S.W. of Walker Group, is about half a mile long, and
one quarter of a mile wide ; half a mile S.E. of it are some rocks just above
high water. Prosser Rock, 2 miles W. by N. f N. of Redfern Island, is small,
and about 2 ft. above high water. Nearly a mile farther in the same direction
is Bright Islet, 100 ft. high.
Fine and Storm Islands, with their surrounding islands and reefs, occupy
the middle of the western approach to Queen Charlotte Sound, and form the
eastern margin of dangers between Shad well Passage and Cape Caution.
Fine Island, bold, rocky, and covered with trees, is about 250 ft. high, and
lies 4f miles N.E. by N. from Cape James. It is about a mile in circum-
ference, and Tree Islets lie half a mile N.E. of it. Sunken Rock, on which the sea
breaks in bad weather, lies 1 i mile East of Pine Island. Storm Islands are a
narrow chain of islands, about 2 miles long East and West, and form a most
useful landmark when crossing Queen Charlotte Sound. The western of these
islands bears from Pine Island N.W. by N. 3 miles, and from Cape Caution
S.E. by S., distant 8 miles. There are no outlying dangers beyond 3 cables.
The tops of the trees are from 150 to 200 ft. high, and on the western part
was a conspicuous single tree. Water can be obtained at the Indian fishing
station on Storm Islands.
Sealed Passage, between Pine Island and Storm Islands, is about 2^ miles
wide, and Blind Reef, on which the sea breaks in heavy weather, extends
nearly across. This passage should not be attempted. South Rock, awash at
low water, lies If mile E. i S. from Beid Island, the easternmost of Storm
Islands. Middle Rock, covered at three-quarters flood, lies 1 mile N. by W.
from South Rock. North Rock, awash at high water, lies N.E. nearly three-
quarters of a mile from Middle Bock.
Slingsby Channel, 4 miles north-eastward of Storm Islands, leads to Seymour
and Belize Inlets ; it is 5 miles in length, with an average breadth of 3 cables,
between the Outer Narrows and Nak-wak-to Bapids. In the Outer Narrows,
which are 1 cable in width, with no bottom at 40 fathoms, the tides run from
4 to 10 knots, strongest on the ebb, the change of tide being attended with an
interval of about 15 minutes slack water. With the wind blowing in, the
entrance breaks across.
Nak-wak-to Rapids (Kah-tsis-illa), at the eastern end of Slingsby Channel,
i'f
f 1 "-■
■^■^'fmmf^-
512
BRITISH COLUMBIA, ETC.
'i ir
111, I *! "
are 2 cables iu width, with Turret Island, 80 ft. high, in the centre, against
which the tide rushes with great fury. The channel westward of the islet ha»
a 12-ft. rock in it; that to the eastward is from 6 to 11 fathoms deep. The
ebb here attains a velocity of 20 knots at springs.
Steam vessels may enter the Outer Narrows in fine weather at or near slack
water, and proceed to Trcadwell Bay, 4 miles within the entrance on the
North shore, where anchorage will be found in from 9 to 15 fathoms, avoiding
the shoal of 1 5 ft. southward of the centre of the bay. To proceed through
Xak-wak-to Rapids, which should only be done on emergency, the turn of the
tide should be most carefully watched, so that the vessel may with certainty
make the passage during the only 10 minutes of slack water, for at no other
time would it be possible to do so with any degree of safety.
Within Slingsby Channel are Seymour and Belize Inlets, extending to the
eastward, and forming between them a long peninsula, which is again indented
by Nugent SottnJ, the entrance of the latter being nearly opposite Slingsby
Channel. These inlets are similar to the others, narrow and deep, with lofty
shores.
The Coast from Cape Commerell (page 508), the N.W. point of Vancouver
Island, takes a S.W. direction for 16 miles to Cape Scott. It is rather low,
but rises at a distance inland to hills 800 and 1 ,000 ft. high ; it is indented by
several bays, which, however, are too open to afford any shelter, except in
southerly winds ; foul ground extends off in some places more than 1 mile.
HECATE BOCK, lying W. ^ S. IJ mile from Cape Commerell, and three-
quarters of a mile off shore, covers at three-quarters flood, and the sea breaks
heavily over it. Lemon Point, Galiano Island, just open of, or touching.
Shingle Point, Vancouver Island, E. by N., leads three-quarters of a mile
North of it.
At Cape Scott the flood cornea from the southward, and rounding the cape
sets into Goletas Channel, its strength varying from 1 to 3 knots.
SCOTT CHANNEL, between Cape Scott and Scott Islands to the westward,
is 5i miles wide, with soundings in it varying from 25 to 40 fathoms. It is a
safe navigable channel for any class of vessel, the only known dangers in it
being the rocks extending nearly a mile West of Cape Scott. The tide runs
through from 1 to 3 knots, the flood from the southward.
SCOTT ISLANDS extend nearly 20 miles in an East and West direction ;
the principal ones being five in number, with some adjacent smaller islets.
There are wide passages between the western islands, but as no soundings
have been obtained in them, and strong tide ripples and overfalls have in-
variably been observed raging there, no vessel should venture among or
through them, unless compelled to do so.
Westward of Cape Scott the tides set with considerable strength to the
North and South across the entrance of Goletas Channel, and a vessel passing
?! Vi
THE COAST OF BRITISH COLUMBIA.
513
■;/:,f
out northward of Scott Islands must beware that she is not set down too near
them with the ebb stream.
Cox Island, the easternmost and largest of the group, and 1,047 ft. high,
is about 2i miles in extent, with ironbound rocky shores and several off-lying
dangers. This island forms the western boundary of Scott Channel, and is up-
wards of 6 miles W. by S. from Cape Scott.
Lanz Island, separated from Cox Island by a passage half a mile wide, is
2J miles long in a westerly direction, and a mile broad ; its shores, like Cox
Island, are rocky, and it rises near the centre to a summit 1,177 ft. above the
sea. Both the islands are wooded.
£ast Hat/cock, a small islet 80 ft. high, is 2 J miles S.W. from Lanz Island ;
it has a rugged outline, and some islets extend N.W. of it. West Haycock, 5
miles W. ^ S. from East Haycock, is small and rocky, about 1 80 ft. high. Some
islets extend over a mile S.W. of it, with foul ground around them.
Triangle Island, the westernmost of the group, is 26 miles W. by S. fi.om
Cape Scott : it is 680 ft. high, about a mile in extent, and differs from the other
islands in being very precipitous and bare of trees, and has a remarkable gap
in its summit. A ledge or reef extends 1 mile N.W. of it ; to the eastward are
three low islets, the outermost of which, 40 ft. high, is 1|^ mile from Triangle
Island.
In navigating near Scott Islands, it is recommended to give them a good
offing, especially in a sailing vessel, as the tides set very strongly through the
passages between them.
This will complete the description of the circuit of Vancouver Island. Its
seaward coast has been included in the previous Chapter, and this terminated
at Cape Scott. Of its interior, it would be out of place to dwell upon here ;
but at the conclusion of this Chapter some of the more recent works on the
subject are enumerated.
The COAST of British Columbia, to the northward of Queen Charlotte
Sound, is less known and frequented than that adjacent to Vancomer Island.
For its delineation and description we were, up to the time of the more recent
British surveys, chiefly dependant on the excellent work of Vancouver. Al-
though of old date, this was of less importance, inasmuch as from the nature
of the coast, an ironbound region not liable to change its character, the careful
survey, as far as it went, was a sufficient guide. As it is, it remains in almost
its primeval condition. The population is chiefly Indian, and they are both
intelligent and industrious, performing nearly all the labour of the salmon-
canning and lumbering industries, which have gained a foothold here.
During the years 1864 — 1870, Staff-Commander D. Pender, K.N., assisted
by several other officers, surveyed the outer coast and islands from Cape
North Pacific. t
'9')
, '
:\--^r-
i..'^.-
T
1 ..f,
■If
11
i^
\-^-<:>,
; X[>
"4-
618
BRITISH COLUMBIA.
III!
I'll
f I '
Jit!
r<>i
W 1;
IM
ifi
I I;
of S. lith Inlet, and appears less dangerous than the latter. It has, however,
on its southern side, many rocky islets and rocks, but none were discovered
benrath the water level. By keeping on the North side of the entrance, a fair
navigable passage is found, about half a mile wide, between the North shore
and the rocky islets that lie off its southern side. There was no bottom found
in the middle with 80 fathoms of line. From Rivers Inlet a channel diverges
northward of Penrose Island towards the South end of Calvert Island. It is
very narrow and intricate, leading through numerous rocks and islets to Point
Addenbiooke, in Fitzhugli Sound.
At the head of Rivers Inlet is the village of JFeekeeno, and two salmon
canneries and a saw-mill are established on the inlet.
CALVERT ISLAND forms part of the exterior coast northward of Rivers
Inlet, and within it is Fitzhugh Sound ; the former was discovered and named
by Mr. Duncan, the latter by Mr. Ilanna. Tlie eastern side of the ifilund forms
a stoop bold shore, rising abruptly from the sea to a great height.
FITZHUGH SOUND, the entrance to which lies 5 miles northvi'ard of Smith
Sound, is 39 miles long in a general N.N.W. and S.S.E. direction, having an
average breadth of 3 miles, with no known hidden dangers throughout. The
southern entrance lies between Craustown Point and Cape Calvert, 5 milea
W. i N. from it.
The coast from Long Point extends N.W. by N. 2J miles to Kcfp Point,
from which Cranstown Point boars N. by W., distant 1 mile. Canoe., Spur,
and Paddle Rocks, lie about a mile off Kelp Point, ocoupying a sjiace of 1^
mile N.X.W. and S.S.E., and more or less covered with growing kelp. Canoe
Eock, the centre and most prominent of these rocks, is bare, 25 ft. high, and
stands boldly out from the coast. Open Bay, on the N.E. side of Cranstown
Point, affords anchorage in 7 fathoms, but it is only used by local craft as a
temporary anchorage.
Cape Calvert is lae South extreme of Calvert Island, and at 2 miles North
of it lies Entry Cone, 1,200 ft. high, which forms a good mark from the south-
ward and westward. The cape is fronted by the Sorrow Islands, which are
»iteep-to, and covered with trees ; between them and the cape fair shelter may
be fo\md for boats in Grief Bay (Telakwas).
Directions. — In entering the sound from the southward, Addcnbrooke Island
open, and the East shore of the sound (beyond) shut in by Cape Calvert, bearing
N.W. by N. I N., will lead midway between Channel Reef and Egg Island,
and up to the entrance of Fitzhugh Sound. Allowance should be made for
tidal streams ; the flood sets to the eastward into Queen Charlotte and Smith
Sounds with a velocity at springs of nearly 2 knots. Vessels from the west-
ward should use North Passage, between Sea Otter Group and Calvert Island ;
this passage is about 3 miles wide, but Jledley Patch, of 9 fathoms (probably
less), lies in the West entrance, at 3 J miles N. J W. from Watch Hock
(pngc 515),
FITZIIUGH SOUND -SCHOONER RETREAT.
Schooner Retreat (Ka-pi-lis/i) is the name given to the anchorages among
a cluster of islands at the S.\V. end of Penrose Island, which here separates
I'it/hugh Sound from Rivers Inlet. It affords a secure stopping place, and
with care may be safely entered by steam vessels. During S.E. and S.W.
gales the gusts are furious, but with good ground tackle and care there need
be no danger in Schooner Retreat.
Safe Entrance, between Joachim and Ironside Islands, the largest of the
group, is three-quarters of a mile wide, and has from 8 to 17 fathoms water in
the middle. On its West side lie Grey hhnds, with a 2 to 3-fathoms shoal
extending IJ cable northward of them. Comber Rock covers at three-quarters
flood, and lies S. by \V. three-quarters of a cable from Surf Point, the S.W.
extreme of Ironside Island.
Friyale Bay, the southern anchorage in Schooner Retreat, is about half a
mile long N E. and S.W., and a quarter of a mile broad, with depths of 9 to
20 fathoms. The best anchorage will be found just within Safe I'Intrance, off
a clean sandy beach, in 13 fathoms water, with the N.E. extreme of Ironside
Island bearing W. ^ S., and the N.W. extreme of Sea Bluff, on the East side
of the entrance, S. \ W. It is necessary to moor. Maze Islands- are a cluster
of small islands on an extensive shoal projecting from the N.E. end of Ironside
Island, and leaving at its N.E. tnd a narrow channel with 5i to 9 fathoms
water, which leads from Frigate Ray to Secure Anchorage.
Secure Anchorage is about a quarter of a mile long N.E. and S.W., and 1 J-
cable broad, with depths of 9 to 11 fathoms. Ventcy P-issaye, leading to it
from the westward, between Ironside and Bird Islands, is contracted to about
30 yards in width by the shoals on either side, and is only suitable for small
coasting vessels.
It is high water in Schooner Retreat, on full and change, at 0' 30"' ; springs
rise 14 ft., neaps 11 ft.
Directions. — Vessels bound to Schooner Retreat should at all times use Safe
Entrance. If from the southward. Quoin Hill, 880 ft. high, at the West part
of I'enrose Island, should be brought in line with the hill, 200 it, high, on the
East end of Ironside Island, bearing N.N.E., which will lead to abreast
Karslako Point, the West extreme of Joachim Island, when Safe Entrance will
be open. After passing Karslake Point, steer very carefully towards Bluff
I'oint until Quoin Ilill is in line with Centre Island bearing N. ^ E., which
will lead through in mid-channel, and to the anchorage in Frigate Bay.
Safety Cove {Oat-so-alis) {Port Safety of Mr. Duncan?) is 7 miles north-
ward of Cape Calvert, on the West shore of Fitzhtigh Sound. It terminates
in a small beach, near which is a stream of excellent w-attr, difficult for boats
to reach. It is the first place that affords safe and convenient anchorage on
the western shore within Fitzhugh Sound. Vancouver found it a comfortable
retreat, in August, 1792.
Safety Cove is about a mile long W.S.W. and E.NE., and nearly half a mile
U - .:
lis,*-
m'^
m
;kc>
■:». V ^'
520
BUITISII COLUMIJIA.
P
wide at its entrance, to the westward of which the shores of the cove extend
l)urallcl to euch other at a distunco of 2 cables apart ; the head is filled by a
shoul extending out .3 cables. The North entrance point has two atnall islets
lying off it, which are useful in identifying the entrance.
There is good anchorage in 13 fathoms, mud, in the middle of the cove,
abreast a waterfall on the North shore. It is high water, on full and change,
at l*" 0"" ; springs rise 14 ft., neaps 11 ft.
At 4 miles North of Safety C!ove Fit/.-hugh Sound is contracted to IJ mile
by Addr.nhrooke and adjacent islands, which lie on the I'last side. Juvukshua
I'ax.i(i(/p, 74 miles North of Sjifety Cove, leads to the sea, between Calvert and
Hecate Islands; it has been used by coasting vessels. Ilakai (J/iunncl, .^J
miles North of Kwaksliua, and Niduti I'ussaye, 4 miles farther on, are two other
unexplored channels leading to sea. (See pp. .024-5.)
Ooldstream Harbour, at the North end of Hecate Island, affords good
acnonnuddation for small vessels ; it is about 2 cables in extent, with depths
of 7 to 15 fathoms, sand and mud. The entrance is through an intricate
])assage little over half a cable wide, between the shore and an island which
forms the North side of the harbour. Kvcninij Rock, drying 3 ft. at low
water springs, lies near the middle of the passage, about 2 cables within the
entrance ; it would, therefore, be advisable to jjlace a boat near this rock
before entering or leaving the harbour. It is high water, on full and change,
at l*" O™ ; springs rise 15 ft., neaps 12 feet.
BURKE CHANNEL.— Fitzhugh Sound extends 24 miles from Safety C'ovo
in nearly a true North direction to Point Wtdker, where it sejjarales into two
arms, the northern one named Fisher Channel. Tl»e easternmost was named
by Vancouver after iMlmiind Ihirkc. Its S.E. point is Point lulniund, about
2 miles S.K. by I'l. from T'oint Walker. There are some islets off Point
Edminid.but the channel is fair. The sides nf the eanal are composed of com-
pact, Btui)cndous mountains, and nearly perpendicular rocky cliffs, i)roduciiig
])ine trees. I'rom its entrance it trends .05 miles to the north-eastward to
Hcla-kuia, at the head of North Uentinek Ann. Though not surveyed in
detail, it has frequently been traversed, and may be safely navigated by the
Admiralty chart.
Namu Harbour, 1 mile S.S.E. of Ednnmd Point, is three-quarters of a
mile long, K.N.E. and W.S.W., and the same in breadth, with depths of
20 to 2H fathoms ; in the entrance lies Kin-ash Island, 2U0 ft. high, small, and
covered with trees, with a deep cininnel on either side of it, the southern one
nearly half a mile wide, and the northern 3 cables wide.
Large vessels should anchor in 20 fallioms, in the centre of Namu Harbour,
with the North extreme of Kiwash Island bearing West, and the West ex-
trenn^ of Plover Island, the South point -if Un' harboni. R, by E. Small
vessels may anchor in Whirlwind Hay, on the East side o*" the harbour, in
w,
\U
h,
ha:
So\ith bide. In taking up a berth great care is recpiired, to guard
against getting too near the edge of the flat, which is (juitc steep-to, A largo
• A turriUo tngctly uccuircd on tliia roiid in May, 1301. Thu trunchoroua Iiidiuns do-
htrnyi'd nciirly tlio whole of a jiiirty wlio woro milking tlicir way to tlio Cariboo Gold l/'iuld«.
'I'hi' jimliculars aro (luoted in 31r, I'. Wliyiiij'cr'tf iuturcsling work, pp. 34, 35.
Aorlh I'lKi/ic, 3 X
«>.• T* ?!
^; *
■ ,,)
1 1! "■'
: r
622
BRITISH COLUMBIA.
I ;:(
Tcsscl should moor in 45 to 50 fathoms. Small vessels may find shelter during
summer, on the North shore, under Custom House Point.
The N.E. point of King Island was named Point Edward, and around it
Labouohere Channel leads from Burke Channel to Dean Canal, which
penetrates many miles in a N.E. and North direction, terminating in low
marshy land.
Cascade Canal is to the N.W. of Point Edward. Its shores are bounded
by precipices more lofty than any hereabouts ; and from the summits of the
•mountains, particularly on the N.E. shore, arc some extremely grand and
tremendous cascades. The southern part of Dean Channel, forming the N.W.
side of King Island, runs S.W. to Fisher Channel, which separates the
southernmost of the Princess Royal Islands from the main land.
PRIN'CESS ROYAL ISLANDS form a portion of tliat immense archipelago
which here fronts the American continent. On its western side it is uneven,
rocky, and of moderate height. The eastern shore rises more abruptly, and is
bounded behind with lofty snowy raoiiuLains.
Fisher Channel. — Foif Rocks, rather on the I'last side of Fisher Channel and
3 miles North of Walker Point, consist of six rocks above water, the highest
25 ft. high, with a few shrubs on it; they may be passed on either side.
Port John. — At 8 miles northward of Fog Eocks is an indentation in King
Island, with Port John in its northern part, immediately under Remarkable
Cone, ;?,3()0 ft. high, and terminating in Evans Arm to the southward. Port
John, so named by Vancouver, affords anchorage in 20 fathoms, but is much
confined by Murk Rock nearly in th' middle, and by the flat extending off the
Btream at the head. There is also anchorage at the head of Evans Arm in
20 fathoms, which may be reached through the passage South of Boot Island.
There is a salmon-fishery on the South side of Evans Arm.
To the North of Port John is the entrance to Dean Canal, previously men-
tioned, which passes round the N.W. side of King Island toward Cascade
Canal. Fisher Canal continues its northern course for 4 miles above Port
John, its shores being comparatively of moderate height. At this point it
joins Johnson Channel which leads to liullovk Channel, the latter taking a
south-westerly course to Milbank Sound, and thus forming the North limit of
the southern Princess lloyal Islands. The shores of Johnson Channel are
stated to be low and rocky, with many detached rocks lying off them. The
southern part of Bullock Channel is stated to have many rocks and breakers iu
it, but all sufficiently conspicuous to be avoided in fair >veather. Several
inlets or arms run up to the northward from the canal leading from Fisher
Canal into Milbank Sound. They are very similar in character and need no
particular description.
LAMA PASSAGE is the main passage connecting Fisher Channel with
Seaforth Channel and Milbank Sound ; its eastern entrance, 6 miles North of
Fog IJocks, may be recognised by a conical mountain 1,000 ft. high, on the
Ead
shcl
bou|
for I
Pad
S-fJ
cntrl
witli
WhJ
Wes
tnin^
S cal
, )
Ul'O
The
Irs in
iveral
rislier
Id no
with
kth of
In the
LAMA TASSAGE— KLICK-TSO-ATLl IIAUUOUll.
523
N.E. point of Hunter Island, and by Pointer Island, on the South side, where
it is nearly a mile wide. Thence the passage trends West 2 miles to abreast
Serpent Point on the South shore, the breadth being about half a mile ; it
then widens and trends W.S.W. 4 miles to abreast Twilight Point, the S.W.
point of Denny Island.
Camp Point, nt the S.W. extremity of Denny Island, shoidd not be rounded
nearer than half a mile, as the bottom is foul for a distance of 3 cables. The
North entrance to Plumper Channel, which is a mile wide, lies opposite
Twilight Point, from which Imma Passage turns to the north-west for 4 miles
to Grave Point, sovithward of which the passage is contracted to 2 cables.
Bella Bella hlanch, three-quarters of a mile North of Grave Point, are bare
and about 15 ft. high.
Cooper Inlet, on the South shore of Lama Passage, 5 miles from the eastern
entrance, is deep and contains several small crocks and rocks ; but in fine
weather anchorage may bo obtained in 11 fathoms water under Westminster
Point, its N.W. point, by bringing it to bear W.N.W. Jane Creek, in the
S.K. corner of Cooper Inlet, may be used by small vessels. Large vessels may
anchor in about 18 fathoms in the entrance, midway between Charles and
George Points. Beefs extend a cable north-westward of Charles Point, the
northern point.
McLanghliu Bay, on the West shore of Lama Passage, half a mile South
of Grave Point, is a good stopping-place; it is about 4 cables wide and IJ
cable deep, with 8 to 14 fathoms water. The anchorage is in 11 fathoms off
the centre of the beach about a cable from the shore. In this bay is the site
of an old Hudson Bay trading post, founded in 1837, which in 18()8 was again
used as such. This is the only Indian winter residence between Qucon
Charlotte Sound and Scaforth Channel. There are stated to be three villages
here, with a population of about 500.
The Indians state that a rock exists in Lama Passage, abreast McLaughlin
Bay, lying half a cable from the eastern shore.
B[lick-t80-atli Harbour, on the North side of Denny Island, and 1 J mile
East of Bella Bella Islands, is about a mile in extent, and affords excellent
shelter for vessels of any si/.c. Steamer Passage, the channel West of Har-
bour Island, otF the N.W.. point of the harbour, is 1 cable wide, and suitable
for small vessels ; large vcs.sels arc recommended to pass through Wbcchrk
Pass, between a .3-fathoms patch near the centre of the channel and the
S-fathoms shoal extending three-quarters of a cable off Noble Point, the N.l'l.
entrance point of the harbour. The West extreme of Cypress Island in lino
with the East extreme of Meadow Island, N.W. by N. J N., leads through
Wheelock Pass in 11 to 19 fathoms water, and when Harbour Island bears
West a vessel may anchor in 1 2 fathoms. Secure anchorage may also be ob-
tained in 15 fathoms, with Harbour Island bearing S.E. by S. J S., distant
3 cables.
524
I i!
ii i'
BRITISH COLUMBIA.
11^ i
f I'; ^
; '■
Main Passage, leading from Lama Pussngc to Senfoith Channel, between
the N.E. extreme of Campbell Island and Narrow Island, is three-quarters of
a mile long N.N.E. and S.S.W., and from 2 to 2 J cables wide. Narrow Island,
about three-quarters of a mile North of Bella Bella Islands, is three-quarters
of a mile long E.N.E. and W.S.W., with a ledge of rocks, awnsh at high
water, at a cable from its South side. Some islets and a reef lie between it
and Deer Island, to the eastward.
Ounboat Passage, between Denny and Cunningham Islrmds, is narrow and
intricate, containing many rocks and kelp patches. From its western entrance
it trends about E. by N. 6 miles, thence North 2 miles to its eastern entrance,
at the junction of Fisher and Dean Channels. This passage should not be
attempted unless in small handy steam-vessels, with good local knowledge.
Outer Coast, — We now proceed to describe the outer coasts of the islands
which fonn Fitzhugh Sound and the inner channels to the northward, com-
mencing at Cape Calvert (p. 518).
CALVERT ISLAND is but little broken on its southern and western shores,
which are comparatively low, and thickly wooded. Sorrow Island, at the
I)itch of Cape Calvert, is conspicuous, and an excellent thick-weather mark,
from its cliffy formation, and by being covered with stunted trees. Landing,
in fine weather and off-shore winds, may be effected in Grief Bay (p. 518),
and in other bights westward to Herbert Point, the S.W. extreme of the island,
about 8 miles distant.
Mark Nipple, au isolated hill, 350 ft. high, a mile E.S.E. of Herbert Point,
is a very useful landmark. Llakeney Islet lies half a mile off the S.W. ex-
treme of Calvert Island, and at 1^^ mile W. by N. of it is the western edge of
FitzRoy Reef, the most outlying danger off the western shore of Calvert
Island ; it uncovers at low water, and extends about 5 cables East and West.
Carritigton Reefs, a cluster of sunken rocks, extend 5 cables from the shore at
If mile northward of Blakenoy Island. The coast northward of Carrington
Reefs is foul to the distance of 5 cables.
Kwalishua Channel, unexamined, lies between Calvert and Hecate Islands.
At its western entrance it is 5 cables wide, but Kuakshua Rock lies nearly in
mid-channel, and over it the sea only breaks at intervals.
Hecate Island forms the southern shore of Hakai Channel ; reefs extend
8 cables off its West side. Near the S.W. end is Leading Peak, a sharp
summit, IJ mile northward of which is Sugar-loaf Hill, 500 ft. high.
HAKAI CHANNEL, between Hecate and Nalau Islands, is about 7 miles
long in a general N.E. i N. and S.W. ^ S. direction, and from 1 to 1 J mile
wide. Numerous islets and rocks lie on each side of the entrance.
Tliis channel is not recommended to a stranger. If using it, steer midway
between North and South Pointers Rocks; thence a mid-channel course,
N.E. i N., towards a conspicuous mountain on the eastern shore of Fitzhugh
12
Roc
of,
r
Star;
and
maki
anc
and
Ea
has a
N
navig
I
HAKAI CHANNEL— WELCOME HARBOUR.
525
agh
Sound, will lend Uirough into that sound. The tidal streams attain the velocity
of 4 knots an hour at springs.
South Pointers, a small cluster of black rocks, 2 ft. above high water, and
Burroundcd by sunken dangers to the distance of 2 cables, lie on the South
side, li mile vvcstward of the Starfish Group. Starfish Islands, wooded, and
from 70 to 150 ft. high, lie on the South shore, and extend about IJ mile
N.E. and S.W. The group consists of three princip.il islands, much broken
into long, rocky, narrow creeks, with shores of white cliffs. Choked Passuye,
southward of the Starfish Group, is obstructed by rocks awash, reefs, and
sand-banks. Slarjish Ledge, over which the sea usually breaks, lies 2 cables
from the N.W. shoi'c of Long Island, the northernmost Starfish Island.
North Pointers are a cluster of bare rocks, of light colour, lying on the
North side of the entrance ; the outer rock lies N.N.W. 2 J miles from South
Pointer Rocks. Breaker Group, also on the North side, is about a mile in
extent, the larger islands being wooded, and about 250 ft. high. Breaker
Ledge uncovers at half ebb, and lies 5 cables S.E. of the contre island.
East Hock, on the South shore, o£F the mouth of Welcome Harbour, is
awash at low water, and lies half a mile off shore, and 5 cables N. by E.
from Kelp Point, the western entrance point of that harbour. Port Beef,
awash at high water, lies E. J^ S. 2 cables from East Rock. Leading Peak, at
the head of Welcome Harbour, seen in line with Bluff Point, on the North
side of the harbour, bearing S.S.E., will lead westward, and South Pointers
Rocks S.S.W. will lend northward of these rocks.
Welcome Harbour, on the South shore of Hakai Channel, is 3 cables wide
at its entrance, and extends IJ mile to S.S.E., affording good shelter to small
vessels. On its North shore is a sandy beach, M'herc a vessel might be beached.
Fairtvay Rock, with 21 ft. over it, lies nearly in mid-channel at the mouth
of Welcome Harbour. Leading Peak seen just northward of Bluff Point,
bearing S.S.E., will lead eastward of it. Ilarhour Ledge, 1 cable from the
N.W. shore of Harbour Island, is small and dries 4 ft. Codjish Bock, with
12 ft. over it, lies half a cable off the South shore of Harbour Island. If'ol/
Bock, awash at high water, lies close to the East shore, at 2 cables northward
of Sandspit Point, which has a sandspit extending 1 cable off it.
To enter the harbour, having passed not less than 5 cables northward of
Starfish Group, the leading mark for clearing East Rock should be brought ou
and steered for. Especial care will be necessary if the flood stream be
making. Having cleared East Rock, pass East or West of Fairway Rock, and
anchor in 7 to 9 fathoms off Sandspit Point, midway between Leading Island
and Wolf Rock, with the former bearing N.W. distant 1 cable.
Exposed Bay, on the South shore of Ilakni Channel, abreast Breaker Group,
has a dangerous cluster of sunken rocks near its centre.
Nalau Passage, between the Nalau Group and Hunter Islanc' is useless for
navigation. On the North side of its entrance is White Cliff Island, 4 miles
'■U (;
i ,
ii i
si
>' ii
^i^
1 1-;
.1'
•■t
(I:
626
BIUTISII COLUMBIA.
W. by N. i N. from tlie outer North Pointer Rock ; it is of small extent,
bare, and 250 ft. in height, its shores consisting of high white clifis.
QUEEN SOUND, between Goose Islands and //un/(;r 7s/aH(/, is about 12
miles long N. by E. and S. by W., and from 4 to 8 miles wide. At its northern
end is a labyrinth of islands and islets, rendering it intricate and dangerous.
Spider Island, 250 ft. high, at 3 miles northward of White Cliff Island, is 3J
miles long N.N.W. and S.S.E., and li mile broad, and connected with Hunter
Island by a ledge of rocks awash ; its N.W. extreme terminates in high, bold,
white cliffs. At 2^ miles northward of Spider Island is Superstition Point, off
which a ledge of high rocks and sunken dangers extends 1| mile to the S.W.
Near it are strong tide races.
Purple Bluff, 5 miles N.W. of Spider Island, is the S.W. extreme of a
group of islands, islets, and rocks, at the mouth of Plumper Cliannel, and
terminates in high, bold, basaltic cliffs, of a purple tint. The group extends
over a space of nearly 5 miles.
Ooose Islands, 5 miles westward of Spider Island, consist of four principal
islands, connected at low water ; the largest and northernmost is 250 ft. high,
wooded, and its N.E. extreme terminates in conspicuous high white cliffs. Ou
the eastern side of the West island is Yellocki, an Indian fishing village.
Goslimj Rocks, awash and sunken, extend nearly 4 miles S.S.E. of the South
island. West Hock, awash, lies 1 mile S.W. of the western island. Peveril
Bock, awash, lies li^ mile N.N.E. from the northcn island.
Plumper Channel leads between Hunter and Campbell Islands, from Queen
Sound into Lama Passage. Its southern end is oLstructed by numerous islets
and rocks. Hecate Channel leads between Campbell Island and the Baidswell
Group from Queen Sound into Seaforth Channel. This channel is also ob-
structed at its southern end by numerous islets and rocks.
Broken Oroup ( Qual-a-gute), 2 miles northward of Goose Islands, extends
2 miles N.N.W. and S.S.E. , and consists of several islets and rocks, connected
by ledges. Fingal Island, small and wooded, lies 1 mile W. by N. from the
northern island, and ledges extend 1 mile southward of it. Middle Rock,
6 ft. high, lies 2^ miles W. by S. from the South island. North Breaker, a
dangerous sunken rock, lies N.N.W. 1 mile from Middle Rock. Limit Island,
small and wooded, with foul ground extending 5 cables S.W. of it, lies 2 miles
N.W. J W. of Fingal Island, and about a mile off Bardswell Islands. At a
mile westward of Limit Island are liempstone Rocks, awash at high water,
1 mile apart E. by S. and W. by N. The western rock lies \\ mile S.E. of
Cape Swain.
Bardswell Islands lie on the eastern side of Milbank Sound, and are low
and wooded, extending over a space 7 miles square, with several boat channels
among them.
MILBANK SOUND, discovered and named by Mr. Duncan, is an opening
between the Princess Eoyal Islands, in lat. 52° 13'. Its S.E. jwint is Cape
MILBANK SOUND-
Stcain, so named after the third lieutenant of the Discovert/, Vancouvcr'a
vessel ; the cape is low and woodud. Its N.W. point is Point Day, 9 miles
N.W. by W. i W. from Cape Swain, and a group of wooded islets, with
numerous rocks, extend 2 miles S.S.W. from it. The southern and eastern
sides of the sound, being entirely covered with trees and with low shores, is
very pleasant in appearance, but the northern sides are a rude, confused mass
of low, rugged cliffs, bounded by innumerable rocky islets and rocks. Behind
Jorkins Point, at the head, the land of Princess Eoyal Island rises in moun-
tains 1,500 to 2,000 ft. high. The sound extends 17 miles in a northerly
direction to Jorkins Point, at the entrance of Finlayson Channel, with very
deep water.
Price Island, forming the western shore of Milbank Sound, has a con-
spicuous ridge of hills along its eastern shore. Prom Day Point its eastern
shore trends N. by E. for 4 miles to Aldrich Point, half a mile northward of
which is Boat Cove, affording shelter to boats. The coast North of Boat Cove
is almost straight and unbroken for 7 miles to N.W. by N. J N. to the entrance
of Schooner Passaye, a narrow intricate channel to Laredo Sound.
Directions. — Approaching Milbank Sound from the S.W., Helmet Peak on
Lake Island, 1,032 ft. high, is conspicuous. Stripe Mountain, on the North
side of Dowager Island, is 2,020 ft. high, with a remarkable lau:'slip down its
S.W. side. Helmet Peak in line with White Hock, N.E. by N. i N., will
lead up nearly in mid-channel. When within 2^ miles of White Rock, st.'er
E. by N. J N. towards Seaforth Channel, or N. by W. towards Finlayson
Channel.
A channel 8 miles broad, with depths of over 100 fathoms, mud, extends
south-westward of Milbank Sound. North-westward of this channel the
depths decrease to 50 fathoms, and less, at the mouth of Laredo Sound, with a
bottom of fine sand. South-eastward the depths are 7G and 80 fathoms, over
sand, mud, and rock at intervals. In thick weather, therefore, when ap-
proaching the sound from the south-westward, with average precautions, a
vessel's position should be indicated by the deep-sea lead.
Tides. — The flood stream approaches from the southward, and divides near
the middle of the sound; one portion running towards Finlayson Channel,
another towards Mathicson Channel, and another towards Seaforth Channel.
The reverse takes place on the ebb. The rate is variable, but it seldom ex-
ceeds 1 knot an hour in Milbank Sound; increased, however, within the
channels to 2 and 3 knots an hour.
OflF Cape Swain are the two dangerous Discovery Rocks, 8 cables apart
N. by E. and S. by W. The sea seldom breaks over the southern one, which
lies a mile W. f S. from the cape. About 5 miles within the entrance lie White
Pocks (Ka-mas-ik), half a mile apart N. by E. and S. by W. ; the northern
one is 6 ft. high, and the southern one 50 ft. high. At 2^ cables E. ^ N. of
febv':!'
m
^.li^j
«38
BlUTISn COLUMBIA.
H ,
i i =ii
1
ii
the latter is Sound Rock, with 12 ft. water on it, and another rock lies half a
mile to the S.W.
St. John Harbonr {Cheek- Squmiz) lies on the S.E. shore of Milbank Sound,
nearly midway between Capo Swain and Sound Point. Though confined, and
with a narrow entrance, it affords good anchorage for small vessels. It it
protected at its entrance by Raye Reef of rocks awash, and sunken rocks,
which form a natural breakwater, and eastward of this reef there is a clear
channel, 2 cables wide, with depths of 10 to 30 fathoms : ledorcs extend a cable
from the eastern shore. At 5 cables within the entraace lie two small islands.
Wood Island, the eastern and smaller one, being round, wooded, and con-
spicuous. The ehanuel eastward of these islands is barely a cable wide, and
leads into Anchor Bay, which is the usual anchorage for small vessels. Went-
ward of the islands the channel is wider and leads into Deep Bay,
In approaching St. John Harbour from the northward. Cape Swain should
be kept well open of the conspicuous quoin-shaped point 2 miles northward of
the cape, bearing S. \ W., until Wood Island is distinctly seen, and North
point bears East. Bring Wood Island to bear S.E. by S. | S., and steer for
it, passing half a cable eastward of it, and anchor in 10 to 11 fathoms, sand,
in Anchor Bay, with the eastern side of Wood Island, distant 3 cables, in lino
with the North extreme of Ilage llcef, N.W. i W. Bage Beef being nearly
covered throughout at high water, the entrance is then not easily distin-
guished ; it is better to enter at half-tide or low water.
Northward of Surf Rock, and between Ivory and Mary Islands, is the en-
trance to Blair Inlet ; the inlet l>as numerous islands and rocks in it, and at
its head is an Indian fishing station.
SEAFOBTH CHANNEL, connecting Milbank Sound with Lama Passage
(p. 522), has its western entrance between White Bocks and the rocks off
Sound Point. Thence it extends 14 miles to E. by N., with an average
breadth of 1 mile. The land on both sides is much broken by islands with
channels between leading North and South. Mouse Rock, over which the sea
generally breaks, lies 6 cables W. i N. of Surf Point, on the North side of
Seaforth Channel entrance. Between Sound Point and Gale Creek, 2J miles
eastward, a bank extends a short distance off the shore, on which tem-
porary anchorage may be fowid, with careful use of the lead, the bank being
steep-to.
Eynampt Harbour, on the South shore of Seaforth Channel, and about
2 miles westward from its junction with Lama Passage, may be recognised by
Grassy Islet, 20 ft. high, and Regatta Reefs, lying in the middle of
the channel IJ mile eastward of the harbour, also by White Stone, a con-
spicuous bare rock, 12 ft. high, lying 2 cables West of Kynumpt. The harbour
is 4 cables long N.N.W. and S.S.E., and averaging 2 cables in breadth with
6 to 16 fathoms, mud ; the best anchorage is in 7 to 9 fathoms, with tho
North extreme of Berry Point bearing E.N.E., and the West extreme of Low
'f -I-
m^
MATIIIESON CHANNEL— PORT BLAKENEY.
520
Island N.N.E. A rock, with 10 fc. water on it, is reported to lie 2 cables
S.W. of Low Island. It is hij^li water, on full and change, at 0'' 30" ; springs
rise 14 ft., neaps 11 feet.
Dull Patch, with less than G ft. water on it, lies half a milo N.N.E. of tho
entrance to Kynumpt Harbour, and a shoal of 3 fathoms extends li cable
westward of it. To avoid Dall Patch, it is recommended to keep tho southern
shore on board, wliicli in this vicinity may bo approached to within l.J cable.
MATHIESON CHANNEL is an extensive arm leading northward fii-m
Milbank Sound, eastward of Lady and Uowagor Islands. At 2^ miles within
the entrance it is obstructed by islands and rocks.
Port Blakeney, on the South side of Mathicson Channel, about 3 miles
within the entrance, is easy of access, and may be approached from tho south-
westward with the swell astern. At its entrance, between Promise and liiiiu
Points, the port is 2J cables wide, thence it takes a southerly direction for
about a milo, terminating in the mouth of a small creek insulating Mary
Island. Wood and water may be obtained in Port Blakeney, and cod and
olJ'cr usli may bo caught on Cod Reefs, and shell fish in the sandy bays.
Cod Jirr/t arc a cluster of rocks at tho mouth of Port Blakeney, tho
northern rock, with 24 ft. water over it, lying N.N.E. 3 cables from Promiso
Point, with a clear channel northward of it 1 J cable wide. Oke Reefs, about
2 cables northward of Cod lleefs, extend 2 cables from the South side of Oko
Island. The outer detached rock is 3 ft. above high water.
Directions. — Approaching Port Blakeney from the southward, Ilelmet Peak
should be kept just open of the eastern point of Lady Island, N. by E. ^ E.,
and when within 5 cables of the latter a N.E. \ N. course should be steered
towards Oko Island. Tho clearing mark for leading between Oke and Cod
Reefs should bo brought on astern, namely, White Rocks in line with tho
North end of Passage Island, W. J N., and when Mark and Oke Islands arc
seen in line bearing N.W. by N. a vessel will be N.E. of Cod Reefs, and may
then haul into the harbour, with the South extreme of William Island astern,
bearing North, and anchor in 10 to 12 fathoms, sandy bottom, about 5 cables
within the port, with Ilclraot Peak seen just open of Promise Point, N. by
AV. \ W., and three-quarters of a cable S. by W. of a small sandy patch of
4 fathoms.
It is high water in Port Blakeney, on full and change, at noon ; springs riso
13 ft., neaps 8 feet.
Off Cross Point, the S.W. point of Lady Island, and the northern entrance
point of Mathieson Channel, a ledge extends 8 cables, and partially uncovers.
At IJ mile N.W. by W. from its extremity is Boulder Head, the South
extremity of an island lying close off Lady Island. Boulder Ledi/e, with
li to fathoms over it, extends 9 cables south-eastward of the head.
Vancouver Bock, imcovering 12 ft. at low water, is steep-to on all sides,
Horth Pacific, 3 Y
a
W-
rii*.
:' I
630
BRITISH COLUMBIA.
u >
and lies N.W. by W. ^ W. distant 1} mile from Kouhlcr Head, and
8.\V. by S. J S. 1 railo from Cliff Islond. Cross Point in lino with Uouldcr
Head, K. I S., leads 6 cables southward of it.
Mots Passage (Too-witl), leads northward of Lady Island into Mathicson
Channel, but at 3 miles within the entrance, and 1 mile from its jtinotion
with Muthieson Channel, it is barely a cable wide, and beyond that position it
should not bo attempted by a stranger. CliJ" hlunJ, on tho North side of tho
entrance to Moss Passage, is small, 225 ft. high, and its S.E. extreme termi-
nates in high, conspicuous white cliffs. Bird Hock, 3 ft. high, with .uul
ground extending 2 cables eastward of it, lies E. by S. 8 cables from tho South
extreme of Cliff Island.
Morris Bay, on tho South side of Moss Passage, about 1 railo within tho
entrance, is 2^ cables wide and extends 3 cables to tho S.E. Westerly win'h
send in a swell, but tho bay possesses the great advantage of permitting tho
state of tho weather in Milbank Sound being ascertained when at anchor.
Good water may be obtained here, and clams and cnckles are in abundance.
Kit/i/ I'atch, on tho eastern side of Morris Hay, lies a cable from the eastern
shore, with dcj)th3 of 4 and 5 fathoms, sand.
Approaching Morris ]5ay, keep midway between lilrd llock and Salnl Point,
and if Vancouver llock bo uncovered, it should bo kept astern bearing
S.W. by W., westerly. The South extreme of Cliff Island open northw -d of
Hird llock, W. J N., astern, will lead to tho entrance. Anchorage will bo
found in 12 to 14 fathoms, sand, a cable from the western shore, with Salal
Point shut in by tho western entrance point, W. by S. j| S., and Detached
Island, on the North side of Moss Passage, bearing N.N.W.
At two-thirds of a mile westward of Cliff Island are a group of islets, of
which tho largest is named North Island, Ledges extend G cables N. by
W. J W. from the island, and uncover at low water. Alexandra Passage lies
eastward of Vancouver Rock and the North Island Group, and small steam-
vessels, possessing local knowledge, make use of it. The passage is barely 6
cables wide in its narrowest part.
Low Point, the S.E. entrance point of Finlayson Channel, is low and
wooded; at 2i miles W. by N. from it is the centre of Beaver Bank, about a
mile in extent, on which a least depth of 27 fathoms was found, where a
vessel might anchor in case of fog. Sandstone Reef is a conspicuous narrow
ridge a mile long, part reaching 4 ft. above high water, tho eastern end bein"
about 3J miles W. by N. of Low Point, and about one-third of a mile off
shore.
FINLAYSON CHANNEL is the main channel, from 1 to 2 miles wide,
leading northward from Milbank Sound. From between Jorkins and Low
Points it extends 3 miles northward; thence in a general N.W. by JN. J N.
direction for 18 miles, and then N. ^ E. 6 miles to the head of Cm it* Bay.
FINLAYSON CIIANNEI^CARTKIl HAY.
U\
Tlic land on both sides is from 1,000 to 3,000 ft. high, and both shores arc
tliickly wooded.
Oscar Fassagfe, 1 milo Tridc, lends eastward out of Finlnynon ChnnncI,
between Dowager nnd Hoderick Talanda, to the ehnnncl leading northward
from Mathieson Channel to Mussel Inlet. On its South side is Stripe Moun-
tain, 2,020 ft. high. Bulley Bay, un the South shore, Sjj^ miles within its
western entrance, affords temporary onehorogu in 15 fathoms, oeensionally
used by coasting vessels.
Sisters are two small wooded islets, about 90 ft. high, lying 2 cables from
shore, 3J miles northward of Oscar Passage. They arc 4 cables apart, and are
joined by ledges uncovering nt low water. Nowish or Otter Cove lies li cables
northward of the Sisters, between Indian and Susnn Islands. The entrance is
2 cables wide, and the cove thence extends K.S.K. for 5 cables, having on its
North shore, about 4 cables within the cove, a small bay, which affords an-
chorage for small vessels in 10 to 11 fathoms, sand. Jackson Pnssayc, north-
ward of Nowish Cove, was unexplored. Mary Cove, 5 J miles northward of the
Sisters, is barely a cable wide at its entrance, and extends in a northerly direc*
tion for 5 cables, terminating in a sandy beaci;.
Cone Island, on the western shore of Fmlayson Channel, is 3J miles long
N.W. i N. and S.E. J S., and about 5 cables broad ; its summit, about 1 mile
from the South extreme, is conical, 1,280 ft. high. Jane Island, 5 cables
northward of Cone Island, is about a mile long N.W. and S.E., and is low and
wooded.
Sarah Island, G cables northward of Jane Island, is l!) miles long N.N.W.
nnd S.S.E., and from 1 to ^^ miles broad. This island reaches its greatest
elevation of 3,000 ft. at 4 miles from its South extreme. On the S.K. side, at
7 miles from the South extreme, an unexplored bay faces south-eastward, and
nt 3i miles from this extreme are two high waterfalls.
Watson Bay, 9 miles northward of Sisters Islets, was unexplored. Wallace
Biyht, 2 miles northward of Watson Bay, and Goat Cove, I mile northward of
Wallace Light, both have very deep water.
Sheep Passage is nearly 1 mile wide, and leads eastward from the head of
Fuilayson Channel to Mussel Inlet, which is stated to have the same general
characteristics as the other inlets.
CARTER BAY is an excellent stopping-place at the head of Finlayson
Channel, and should be recognised by the high cliffj on its western shore. It
is 4 cables wide at its entrance, nnd about 6 cables deep in a northerly direc-
tion, the head terminating in a large stream, fronted by an extensive sand-
flat. 'ITiere is anchorage in 14 to 1.5 fathoms, mud bottom, IJ cable from tho
eastern shore, and 2 cables from the sand-flat, with the entrance points
bearing S.K. J S. and S.W. by S. J S. respectively. Water can be obtained
from tho stream, and here trout abounds. The shell-fish should not be eaten.
It is high water in Carter Bay, on full and change, at noon ; sinings rise
«.,-■ 1
■,''
'. \l
n
3B
saaESGSsssspissffisasaEmn
632
BRITIRTI COLUMBIA.
(f
h-
i}iMy::
. I
i i
!; 1
lliil
13 ft. 'J'lic observation spot, on the western shore, is in lat. 52° 49' 41" N.,
long. 1'28^ '21' ;i!' W.
Carter Hiiy and Mussel Inlet derive their names from one of Vancouver's
party having died from the effects of poisonous niusisels collected in Poison
Con; hit. 52= 55', hm^r. 128'^ 1' W. The whole party who jjartook of them
were .teized with a numbness about their faces and extiemities, Avhich soon
extended to their whole bodies, accompanied with sickness and giddiness.
Tliis may servo as a caution here, though generally the shell-fisli is wholesome.
Hie Kish Narrows, about 5J miles long N.W. and S.E., and from 2i cables
to 1 mile wide, lead from Tinlayson Channel into Graham IJeach. JlviriU
Hoc/;, with 10 ft. water over it, lies at the western entrance, nearly in mid-
channel. The North shore of the channel should be kept on board to
avoid it.
Klemtoo Passage, between Cone and Swindle Islands, !< about 3.} miles long
N.W. and y.E,, and in some parts barely a cable wide. Tliougli narrow, this
passage is safe, provided the mid-cliannel course be kept, and affords an-
chorage almost throughout. The tides are comparatively weak witliin it. It
is high water, on full and change, at noon ; springs rise 11! ft., ncajjs 8 feet.
South I'(iss(n/e, between Cone and Jane Islands, is 5 cables wide ; when
pas.sing through it the Soutli shore should be kept on board, passing '2 cables
nortlnvard of Cone Island, to avoid Kelp I'atvh, a cable southward of Jane
Islniid.
North Passage, between Jane and Sarah Islands, is 5 cables wide, and is to
l)c preferred to South Passage. Keep nearer the Nortii shore, and pass
2 cables South of Sarah Island, to avoid Datujer Patch, of 1 to 3 fathoms, a
cable north-westward of Jane Island.
TOLMIE CHANNEL, between I'rineess Koyal and Sarah Islands, is about
15 miles long N.N.W. and S.S.I']., and from a half to \\ mile wide. On the
South shore, 2^ miles northward of Sarah Island, :\n extensive arm takes a
southerly direction, and is reported to communicate with Laredo Sound. Care
is necessary, when approaching from the northward, not to mistake this unex-
plored arm for the reach leading to Klemtoo I'assagc.
Tolmio Channel, though not so wide as Finlayson Channel, is preferable
in some respects, especially if compelled to be under way at night. The
mid-chnnnel course should be steered throughoiit, except when navigating
the northern part of the channel, when tlie South shore should be ncarcd to
avoid Tohmc Pock, lying half a cable off the sliorc of Sarah Islatul.
Tides. — The ilood stream, from the southward, is stronger in Finlayson than
inTolmie Channel. Tlie ebb, however, is stronger inTolinie Channel, and runs
for IJ hour after the ebb has ceased in I'inlayson Chanuel. In the narrow
parts, both flood and ebb attain a velocity of .'J knots an hour at sjjrings.
GEAHAM REACH, northward of Tolmio Channel and Hie Kish Narrows,
is about 17 miles long N.W. by N. and S.E. by S,, and from a half to 1 mile
GKAHAM llEACir— rilASKU KEACII,
p; t^o
broad. Crmi Inlet lying on the North shore, 2 miles northward of Sarah
Island, was not explored. Flat Point, on the We.st shore, ;) miles vioitli-west-
ward of Green Inlet, is wooded, Hat, and eomparatively low, and near it lies a
large boulder rock.
Swauson Bay lies on the North shore, 7 miles from Sarah Island. There
is anchorage in 19 fathoms, .sandy bottom, in the nortlwri: part (if vhis 1 ay,
with the conspicuous waterfall on the fcjouth siiore of the i' ,icli sluit in with
the North entrance j)oint.
Khutie Inlet, G miles N.W. of Swanson Hay, and Aaltanhash Inlet, 2 miles
N.W. of Khutze, were both miexplored, and are reported by Indians to afR-rd
anchorage. Vancouver found .seareely any inhabitants hereabout. 'I'lie tides
meet abreast Aaltaidiash Inlet, lied CliJ/roint, the turning point into l'"raser
Keach, lies on the South shore.
ERASER REACH, the channel north-westward of Graham Reach, is 1'2A
miles long W. by N. and K. by S., and a half to l.J mile wide. In its southern
entrance lies JFar/c Island, l.J mile long East and West, the ehannel on
either side being deep. Abreast Wark Island is a bay on the South shore, at
the head of which is a fine trout stream.
Klchanc is an unexamined arm on the North sliorc, abreast Wark Island ;
the Indians report that anchorage may be olitained at the head. At laudx/ij)
Point, 4 miles W.N.W. of Wark Islaiul, is a remarkable landslip. Kinyruiubc
Point, at the North end of I'rinccss Royal Island, and the turning point into
McKay Reach, lies on the South shore, and is long, sharp, and conspicuous.
Oj)posite Kingeonibe Point, on ih • e.istern shore, is lis/icniian Care, where
Vancouver anchored. About 2^ mile., northward is a small inlet, where a hot
spring was discovered.
In sailing among the rocky precipices which compose the shores of the
channels hitherto described, it is not always ta'c to nvi'v^ too free with tlieni
in sailing by; for they are frequently found to jut. out a few yards at ot a Utile
below low-v nter mark ; and if a vessel should gv-juad '
»!"■ I
^ii
OABDNEB CHANNEL runs 4i; miles in an irregular course to the east-
ward, Kitlujj Hirer running into its licad. Its upjier part passes ihrough a
country that is almost an entirely barren waste, nearly destitute of wood and
verdure, presenting to the eye one rude mass of almost naked rocks, rising into
lofty mountains, whose towering summits, seeming to oveiliang their bases,
give them a tremendous appearance. The whole is covered with perpetual
ice and snow, and many waterfall* descend in every direction in the summer.
Douglas Channel lit'*! between the West coast of Hawkcsbury Island and
the main land, and oxtcuii* about 43 miles from the North end of Promise
Island lo ita head. About 17 miles from its head it i« joined by Devastation
Channel.
The Admiralty survey did not extend to the waters of Douglas and Gardner
Channels. The navigation i?, however, considered to be free from obstruction.
Her Majesty's ships have at different times visited these localities, and the
chai*ts, as corrected from observations resulting therefrom, as also from in-
formation furnished h\ ^he Government of Canada, may be taien, under
ordinary conditions of \v 'ather, to be a sufficient guide, in the hands of a careful
navigator.
In Douglas Channel, i.t Kit-kia-tah, G miles North of Promise Island, smaM
vessels may anchor in 5 fathoms, half a mile within the inlet. In Kit-i-roat
Arm, in Clio Bay, near the licad, anchorage M'ill be found in 17 fathoms.
This place is used by Her Majesty's ships when communicating with the
Kit-i-mat Indians.
In Gardner Channel, Etchardson Point is said to afford anchorage on each
side of it, in from 18 to 5 fathoms. Also at Kcmano Bay, anchorage of an
indifferent character rnny be obtained.
MoKAY REACH, leading westw.-.rtl of Fraser Reach into Wright Sound
ImkI Whale Channel, is about 8 uiilcs long W.S.W. and K.N.E., and from
1 to 2 miles wide. Tlic land on the North shore is higli and bold, with
mountains 3,000 ft. high. The land on the South shore is not so higli ; and
near the summits of the mountains are some c.Ktensive slatc-colourcd patches.
WRIGHT SOUND is a large sheet of wa'.or, 9 miles long East and West,
and 2i miles wide at its narrowest part. Grcnville Channel extends from its
M-estcrn part ; Whale Channel and Lewis Passage lead southward; and Douglas
Channel and Verney Passage lead northward. Gil Island, on the South side
of the sound, cTilminates in a well defined snow-clad peak 3,000 ft. higli.
Holmes Bay {Quel-ak-sea-hx), on the eastern shore of the sound, at the
entrance of Whale Channel, in 8 cables wide, and recccies in an easterly direc-
tion for about 4 c&bles, terminating in a .sand-flat. A small islet lies off the
South entrance point. There is anchorage in 14 fathoms, sand, with Gil
Mountain in line with the Jiotrth entrance point, S.W. by W It is high water,
on full and change, nt )'' "^ rise 16 ft., neaps 10 feet.
The North point of (iii j >uu u ..^ opposite /'oint Cummimj, the S.W. extreme
■' IM
ill'
WlilGIlT SOUND— GREXVILLE CHANNEL.
530
of Gribbell Island. Thcro is anchorage in a bay on the N.E. part of tho
i.slan(l, about a mile eastward of Turtle Island, its northern extremity. Here
Vancouver anchored in 40 fathoms, stones, shells, and sandy bottom, and called
it Fisherman Cove. There is also said to bo anchorage to the S.^V. of the
North point of Gil Island. Gil Island, ^^ ith the islands to the S.W., and tho
channels dividing them, arc described hereafter (p. 543).
PROMISE ISLAND, at the South cud of Douglas Channel, is 3J miles long
N.N.W. and S.S.E., with an extreme broadth of 2 miles. It is covered wiih
pine and cedar, and culminates in two doiue-shaped peaks, 1,G80 and 1,710 ft.
high respectis'cly. Cape Fareivell, its S.E. cvtreme, terminates in a high, bold
cliff, and a ledge, uncovered at low water, cxteuiis 2 cables S.E. of it. A con-
spicuous white cliff lies midway between Capo Farewell and Thom Point.
Dawson Point, vho North extreme, is low and wooded, and a ledge extends 2
cables northward of it, uncovered at half ebb.
Coghian Anchorage, about a mile westward of Cape Farewell, is 3 cables
wide at its entrance between Camp and Thom Points, and extends 2 miles to
the N.W., widening within to 4 cables. Ledges extend a short distance off
the p. '-.. I'ng points. Ilnrbour Rock, a dangerous rock of snuiU extent,
imcovcro a [i. at low water, and lies nearly in mid-channel near the head of
the harbour, and is nearly stecp-to. Otter Shoal o;ttends 100 yards from tho
western shore, at the head of the anchorage, with depths of 3 fathoms and less
upon it.
Anchorage in C to 7 fathoms, sand, will be found near the head of Coghian
Anchorage, or, for a long vessel, or those not wishing to go beyond Harbour
Rock, a berth in 24 fathoms, in mid-channel, at 5 cables S.E. of Observation
Point, may bo found. It is high water at the anchorage, on full and change,
at0''30"; springs rise 18 ft., neaps 14 ft. Stewart Xarrows, the channel
leading northward of Promise Island into Douglas Channel, is narrow and uot
recommended.
Tides. — The flood stream enters Campania Sound from the southward, and
the main body passes up Squally Channel. TLe J-sscr body, passing into
Whale Channel, unites at 1 mile nortiiward of Turtle Point with the main
body from Lewis Passage. Thence it sets directly across Wright Sound, and
impinging against Camp Point, causes very strong eddies there, and is then
deflected towards Grcnville Channel. Portions of the flood stream by Whalo
Channel turn into McKay lieach, J^ouglas Channel, and Verney Passage. On
the ebb, tho reverse takes place, the main body of water from Wright Sound,
&c., obtaining an exit by Whale ChanneL Both flood and ebb streams attain
the velocity of 3 knots an hour, at spriings, in the contracted portions of the
channels.
GEENVILLE CHANNEL, leading north-westward from Wright Soimd, is
the usual channel taken by steam-vcasels proceeding to the northern waters of
British Columbia. A vessel should keep as nearly as possible in mid-chanocl.
'", '. ^--
;, '-v'^if-
B>MMMMI%«W»MM9II9MnhM
■kV«lnilMm.4A«.kW . IMW
636
IJllITIsn C0LUMI5IA.
nhi
r<^:.i :
\
!• ifir
At it8 S.K. end it is 8 cables wide, and thence it extends 4 miles W, byN. JN.
to abreast Davenport Point, with an average width of 1 mile. I'rom this
point it trends W.N.W. for 11 miles, and narrows to 3 cables as Lowe Inlet is
approached, seldom exceeding; 4 cables in width until north-westward of
Evening Point, Klewnuggit. From off Lowe Inlet, the channel takcf a
N.W. by W. J W. direction for 7 miles, to abreast Evening Point; thence it
gradually widens out from 1 to 13 miles, and extends W. by N. J N. for 23
miles, to Ogden Channel. For 2 miles within it Mr. Whidbey (.July, Vi'Jo)
found the sea abounding in sea-otters, whiah sported about the bouts.
The hmd on both sides is high, reaching the elevaiiou of 3, GOO ft. on tho
North, and from 1,000 to 2,000 ft. on the South shore, and, as a rule, densely
wooded with piro and cedar. The mountains rise almost perpendicularly
nbovc water, and cause tho southern portion of this narrow channel to appear
even narrower than it is. Dut the general edeet of so many mountains rising
one behind the other renders Grcnville Channel one of the most bflautiful laud-
Bcapcs on this coast, and is equalled oidy by Klemtoo Parir.rgo
At springs the flood stream in the narrow portions of Gronville Channel
attains the velocity of 2 knots, and tho ebb 4 laiots au hour. Abreast Lowe
Inlet, strong eddies will be felt on the ebb.
Lowe Inlet {Kumowadah), about 14 miles from Wright Sound, is about
2J cables wide at its entrance between James and Hepburn Points, From
mid-channel, between the entrance points, the inlet extends .') cables N. by E.,
and thence N.N.E. for cables, to tho mouth of Nellie Jlami, which is nearly
circular in shape, with 15 to 17 fathoms water, over mud, and is 5 cables in
diameter, but its entrance is barely a cable wide. A large stream flows into
the N.E. corner of the basin, with a waterfall close to its mouth. Water
may be procured here, and trout caught in the stream.
Oil tho South shore of Circnviilc Channel, at 2 miles S.E. of Lowe Inlet, is
a remarkable bare hill, 400 ft. high, lam hid lies close to the North slioro
at 2 cables vt^estward of the inlet. On the South side of the inlet, Anchor
Cone, a remarkable mountain, rises to tiic height of 2,010 ft. Iliijh-ivater
Bocks, 1 cable from the westera shore, at 4 cables within Lowe lulet, cover at
high water.
Anchorage for vessels of moderate length will be found, in mid-channel, at
2 cables within the inlet, iii 8 and 10 fathoms, sand and shells. For a long
vessel, more convenient anchorage will bo found higher up the harboui-, in,
niiil-chanuel, in 20 fathoms, mud, with Anchor Cone Mountain bearing
S.E. by E It is high water, on full aud change, at 0'' 30'" ; springs rise
17 ft., neaps U> feet.
Morning Reefs extend N.W. by W. nearly 1 mile from Evening Poutt ;
the South bhorc of Orcnville Cliannel must be kept on board when ijassiug
them.
JQewnuggit Inlet lies miles W.N.W. of Lowe Inlet, and 1 mile west-
I
■B
GRENVILLE CIIANNEL—OGDEN CHANNEL.
637
ward of Evening Point. The entrance lies between Camp Point and Leading
Island, and is 4 cables wide. Thence the inlet takes an easterly direction for
4 cables, and there divides ; the longer arm, Exposed Arm, extends in a S.E.
direction for 3 miles. The shorter arm extends N.W. for \\ mile, passing
northward of Leading Island, and is 2i cables wide. Anchorage may be ob-
tained at Shij) Anchorage, in the N.W. arm, in 15 to 20 fathoms, mud, in
mill-channel. Exposed Arm is very deep. It is higli water, on •'ull and
change, at U'' 30™j springs rise 17 ft. The tidal streams meet ubrcast Evening
I'oint.
Stuart Anchorage, on the Siuth shore of Grei.ville Channel, 17 miles
W. by N. i N. of Klewnuggit lulc*^, lies 6 cables westward of a long, low,
wooded projection, which serves to Jistinguish it. Slaj Hock, uncovering
13 ft. at low water, lies 4 cables W. by N. J N. from this point, and has foul
ground extending from it 4 cables in a W.N.W. direction ; a small patch,
\meovered at low water, lies 1 cable South of the rock. Anchorage will be
found in 10 to 15 fathoms, rock, W. ^ S. 2 cables from Stag liock, bat in
proceeding for this anchorage, especially at high water, care is necessary.
False Stuart anchorage lies on the South sliore, 3 miles E.S.E. of Stuart
Anchorage. On its N.W. side is a high, bold projection, which sliould servo
to distinguish it from Stuart Anchorage, 'i'hc water is deep, close to the
shore.
Kxn-geal Inlet, on the North shore, 5 miles westward of Evening Point, and
Kum-eu-lon Inlet, abreast of False Stuart anchorage, were both unexjilored.
Gibson Islands are a group of islands, situated in the junction of Grenville
Channel with Ogden Channel. The western and largest island is 160 ft. high,
about 1 mile in extent, and wooded. On its East side is Bloxliam Inland, of
small extent. Watson Rock, uncovering 11 ft., lies 2 cables oS the South
shore of Gibson Island. A rock lies half a mile W. by S. from the iSouth end
of Bloxham Island, and Bluxham Shoal extends fi cables north-eastward from
the same end, and passes northward of Gibson Islands at that distance, with
depths of 1 to 3 fathoms over it. Gunboat Ilurhour, between Gibson and
IJloxham Islands, affords temporary anclioragc to small vessels, in 1 to 10
fathoms, a cable within the cntraaoo. The conuneutal shore, eastward of
Gibson Islands, is lined with numerous rocks and islets.
Bedford Island, of small extent, lies N.N.W\ 5 cables from Gibson Island,
and a spit extends 3 cables S.W. of it. The channel between the islands is
not reconmicnded, having less than 4 fathoms in it. Marrack Island lies
5 cables N.N.W. of Bedford Island, and Marrack Muck, which uncoverti, lies
nearly in mid-channel between them.
Kennedy Island, about a mile northward of Marrack Island, is 5 J miles
long N.W. and S.]'!, with an average breadth of i miles. It is wooded, and
rises near the middle in two conspicuous peaks, 2,7*1* and 2,470 ft. high
Aorth Pacijic. 3 z
^'%
538
BRITISH COLUMBIA.
' il ,' 1 '■'
ii
respectively. Cardcna Bay, on the S.E. side, is fronted by a mud bank, wliioh
extends over 5 cables from the shore, on which anchorage may bo found in
7 to 8 fathoms, '6 cables from the shore.
Port Fleming. — Between Marrack, Bedford, and Gibson Islands and the
mainland, there is a good harbour of even soundings from 3 to 7 fathoms, with
muddy bottom and very little current, as the tides meet here and form still
water, lliis basin 1 have named Port Fleming. Capt. Madden, an old
trader and pilot, stated that he alw.iys found this harbour good, well-sheltered
from wind, and free from currents and sea, and considered it the best between
Tort Simpson and Vancouver Island for large or small ships.*
Letois Island, 1 mile S.W. of Kennedy Island, is low and wooded. In
Laivson Ilarhour, on its N.W. side, small vessels may find anchorage in
4 fathoms, about 1 cable within the entrance.
Arthnr Passage, between Kennedy and Lewis Islands is about 5 miles long,
N.W. and S.E., and about 1 mile wide. Herbert Reefs, uncovered at low
water, lie on the West side of the passage, about 5 cables from the N.E.
extreme of Lewis Island. This dangerous cluster consists of two rocks,
5 cables apart N.W. and S.E.
FAUott and Elizabeth Islands, north-westward of Lewis Island, arc both
low and wooded. Bampjield Islets lie 2 cables o(F the North shore of Eliza-
beth Island. liloxam Passage, between Lewis and Elliott Islands, is fi'.rmt
2 cables wide, with a depth of 21 fathoms in mid-channel. At Chalmers
Anchorage, on the N.W. side of Elliott Island, anchorage may be found iu
13 to 14 fathoms, 2 cables from the N.W. extreme of the island.
Chismore Passage, between Porchcr Island and Lewis, Elliott, and Eliza-
beth Islands, is about 4 miles long W.N.W. and E.S.E., and from 2 to 5
cables wide. Elixabeth Rock, which uncovers, lies 1 cable off the South shore
of Elizabeth Island, at 1 mile within the western entrance of the passage.
There is anchorage in mid-channel, in 7 to 10 fathoms, 2 cables off the South
shore of Elliott Island, with Genn Islands seen midway between Elliott and
Elizabeth Islands, bearing N.W. by N.
White Cliff Island, nt 6 cables northward of Elliott Island, is about half a
mile long North and South, its South extreme terminating in high, white
cliffi. A lodge extends 2 cables southward of the island, and there is a depth
of 30 fathoms, mud and shells, at 1 cable southward of this ledge. Cecil Patch,
with 4 fathoms on it, lies West 1 mile from the South extreme of White C'lilT
Island. Genn Islands are two email wooded islands, about 120 ft. high, lying
close together ; the eastern one lies N.W. by W. I W., 2 miles from White
Cliff Island. Bribery Island, small and wooded, lies W. by S , 8 cables from
• From a Ueport by Captiiin J. (.'. Hrundigo, pnblishel in a Report in rcferonco to
the Cunadiau Pacific Ruilwiiy, by Sandford FIemiuff,E8(|., Ottawa, 18S0 ; cmtaiiiiiig much
inturesting iuformation on the harbours and northom coast of Driiish C'.'lambia-
I
t
i
i
MALACCA PASSAGE— SKEKNA lUVKU.
839
!
>
i
the western Genu Island. Lawyer Islands nrc nLoiit 1 mile in extent,
N.W. by W. and S.E. by E. ; the eastern island lies W. by S., 5 cables from
bribery Island. Cruice Rock, covering at tbrce-quarter.'j flood, lica W. i N.,
3 cables from the western Lawyer Island.
Malacca Passage, between Porcher Island and the Gcnn and Lawyer
Groups, is about G milct long W. by N. and E. by S., and about 1 J mile wide.
The summit d:" Kennedy Island, having bare patches on the N.W. side, in
line with the S juth extreme of White Cliff Island, E. by S., will lead through.
SKEENA HIVEE, the largest river on the coast of British Columbia
northward of Eraser Iliver, rises in Lake 15abine, about 200 miles beyond Port
Essington. For about 20 miles above Port Essington the river is available for
vessels drawing 4 ft. ; beyond that distance it is only navigable for cr.noes.
The head of navigation, for vessels drawing over 6 ft., may bo said to ter-
minate G miles beyond Port Essington, and 21 miles from the moui'i of the
river. Steamers from Nanaimo ascend the river, it being one of the routes to
the Omineca gold mines.
It is a prolific salmon stream, and there arc three canneries on its banks-
one at Aberdeen, another at Inverness Slough, and a third at I'ort Essington,
near its mouth, where there is a small village of traders, fishermen, and
Indians. 'I'he river is navigable for light-draught steamers as far as Mumford
Landing, CO miles inland, and 200 miles further for canoes. There arc two
missionary stations on the river, and along its course are many sjiots favourable
for settlements. — 77/e West Shore, September, 1884.
At G miles below Port I'lssington, the river divides into three channels,
called North, Middle, and Teli'graj)h Pas-sagcs. The salt water, as far as P'.rt
Essington, is stated to be of a light-blue colour, similar to that near Eraser
Iliver. In winter large masses of ice drift about with the tide, and the river
is stated to freeze over at 6 miles below Port Essington.
Coal is found on the banks of the Skina or Skcena Eiver. It was visited by
Mr. Downie in August, 1859, and may prove to be an important attraction at
some future period.* Gold is found in small quantities; also plumbago. Potatoes
are good and plentiful.
The entrance of Skcena Iliver is an extensive sound, surrounded by a
moderately elevated country, particularly on the N.W. ; but to the North and
East the view is bounded by lofty barren mountains, covered with perpetual
• Mr. Downie snys : At Kitsngatiilii (on tho Skina Hivor) wo entered on a most exten-
sive colli country, the eeams being in sight i\nil cut through by the river, and running up
Iho banks on both ni.luj, varying in thicknosa from 3 to 35 ft. Tho veins are larger on tho
E»Bt side, and aro coven d with sandstone ; on tho West sidn quartz lints the scams, which
aro smaller. Tlio veins dip into tho bank for a mile nlong tho river, and could easily bo
worked by tunnels on tho fr.ce.orby tinlung eliaflo from behind on the flats, as they run in
goft cartli. I hnvo scon no conl liko this in .■ill my travels in British Columbia and Van-
couver Island. (Sco Cupt. Mayne, Appendix, p. VA.)
%\
III
!!•;
!!•
540
BRITISH COLUMniA.
8now. The entrance is narrowed by a shoal against Poinl Lamlert, forming
a rounding spit, of 3 to C ft. water. The tide rushes in furiously.
Telegraph Fasiage, the southern and principal channel of Skecna River, is
about 8 miles long N.W. by N. and S.E. by S., with an aveiage width of
1 J mile. The western side is rendered dangerous by sand flats, some of which
dry, extending from the eastern side of Kennedy Island, but the eastern side
has depths of 4 J to 17 fathoms.
Unless under the guidance of a pilot, as the channels of the Skecna arc
subject to periodical changes, it is recommended, before attempting them, to
buoy the channel.
Port Essington lies cm the South shore, about 5 miles from De Horsey
Island, and abreast it anchorage will be found in mid-channel, in 4 to 6
fathoms, mud. Here there is a village and salmon canneries, liaspherry
Islands, eastward of Port Essington, lie close to the eastern shore, and were
so named by Vancouver from the quantity of excellent rasjiberries he found
here.
A heavy cross-sea is caused by strong winds from N.W. to S.E., and vessels
riding at anchor in the current here during a galo of wind, would be sure to
foul and trip their anchors. — Copt. J. C. Brttndige.
De Horsey Island lies about 1 mile northward of Kennedy Island, and
between them is Middle Passage, which should not be attempted by a stranger.
It is about a mile wide between the islands, but mostly occupied by shoals,
which contract it to a very narrow channel close to the southern side. To the
N.W. of this channel Chatham Sound is interspersed in most directions with
small islands, rocks, and shoals.
North Passage lies between Tsimpsean Peninsula and Smith and De Horsey
Islands. Mount McGrath, on Smith Island, is conspicuous, being 2,200 ft.
high. The navigable channel is barely a cable wide in some parts. An-
chorage will be found at 1 mile within the passage, off Woodcock Landing on
the North shore, nearly in mid-channel, in 8 to 10 fathoms.
Tides. — The night tides rise higher than those of the day ; the latter rising
24 ft. at springs. The flood stream at the entrance attains the velocity of 4,
and the ebb 6 knots an hour at springs.
Having given a description of the inner channels northward of Milbank
Sound (p. 526), we now proceed to describe the outer islands and the channels
among them. Game abounds on all the off-lying islands, and notwithstanding
the presence of wolves, deer are in great numbers. Water is plentiful at all
seasons, and trout may be procured in the streams.
IiABEDO SOUND, between Price and Aristazable Islands, is nearly 20
miles long N.N.W. and S.S.E., and from S to 14 miles wide. The eastern
shore is low, wooded, and much broken into bays and creeks. The West coast
of Price Island is fringed by several islets, rocks awash, and sunken rocks, to
; .IT
•
nf
LAllEDO SOUND- LAEEDO CHANNEL.
541
the distance of 2 miles. A group of ialnnds and islets extend southward from
Aristazablc Island.
Nab Rock, a dangerous sunken rock, over which the sea only breaks at
long intervals, lies S.]-]. by E. distant 3J miles from the summit of Entrance
Island, off the South end of Aristazable Island. The ground is foul for
1 mile S.E. of the rock, and several ledges uncover between it and Entrance
Island.
Kititstu mil, at the West entrance of Schooner Passage (p. 527), is of
triangular shape, with a well-defined summit 7 GO ft. high. Over the North
shore of the sound rise three remarkable mountains, Nvedle Peaks and Cone
Mountain, 2,400 to 2,800 ft. in height.
Don Point, on the western shore, 4 miles N. by E. from the summit of
Entrance Island, is a peninsula 150 ft. high. Schooner Point, the turning
point into Laredo Channel, lies N. by W., 7 miles from Don Point, the coast
being bold and rocky. A ledge, which uncovers, extends 3 cables northward
of Schooner Point. Steep Point, high and bold, forms the N.E. entrance point
of Laredo Channel, and lies N. by E., 2 miles from Schooner Point.
Directions. — Small sailing coasting vessels, to avoid the light winds nnd
calms which frequently prevail in the inner channels, make use of Laredo
Sound and the channels leading northward from it, as here the wind seldom
fails them. In clear weather, if Outer Island, off the South end of Price
Island, be not brought to bear southward of East, a vessel will pass South of
Nab Eock. Kititstu Hill, bearing N. J E., will lead eastward, and Schooner
Point bearing N.N.W. leads northward of Nab Rock.
LAREDO CHANNEL, between Princess Koyal and Aristazablc Islands, is
about 20 miles long N.W. by W. and S.E. by E., and from 2 to 5 miles wide.
At 6 miles within the entrance it is obstructed by a group of islands and
islets, contracting the ravigable channel, on their northern side, to barely
7 cables wide.
Beaver Ledge, uncovering at low water, lies 5 cables from the South shore,
at li mile westward of Schooner Point. South Channel Islands arc 150 ft.
high, and about a mile in extent East and West. North Channel Islands are
of small extent ; the eastern island lies N.W. by W., 1^ mile from the
western island of the South Channel Group. Channel Pock, a dangerous
sunken rock, lies nearly in mid-channel, S.E. by E. 6 cables from the eastern
islet of the South Channel Group.
Bluflf Point, on the southern shore, 2 miles W.N.W. of the North Channel
Islands, is high and bold, with a hill 400 ft. high rising immediatclj- over it.
Seal Pocks, covered at high water, lie 5 cables from the South shore, and
2 miles W.N.W. from Bluff Point. Sandspit Point, 5^ miles N.W. by W.
from Bluff Point, is white and conspicuous, with a ridge of bare hills, 700 to
DOO ft. high, over it. A shoal extends 5 cables northward of Sandspit Point.
Devils Point, the western entrance point of Laredo Channel, lies W.N.W.
f
mm
542
BRITISH COLUMBIA.
i
! i
mv
'■' ■ 't
■ :1
1^
; 11
I
,
4 miles from Sandspit Point; over it is n bnrc liill, with n conspicuo\i9 knob
on its summit. Spray Point, tlic N.E. cntrnncc of the channel, is bold, and
lies K.N.K,, 5 miles from Devils Point.
Tides. — The flood stream from Laredo Sound, and the ebb from the north-
ward, both increase in strength as the Channel I.sland Group is approached,
attaining the velocity of 6 knots an hour at springs in Snrye Narrows, the
channel North of that group. In the wider portions both streams attain
the velocity of 3 knots an hour at springs. Midway between Devils and
Spray Points, the flood stream by Laredo Channel is met by the stream passing
round the N.W. end of Aristazable Island, causing at springs dangerous tidal
roces in that locality.
ARISTAZABLE ISLAND is about 26 miles long N.W. and S.E,, and
from 1 to 10 miles broad, and wooded. At about 8 miles from its S.K.
extreme is a conspicuous saddle-shaped hill, 010 ft. high. Near the northern
end of the island, a bare ridge of hills, with four conspicuous peaks, rises to
the height of 950 ft. Over the S.W. extreme arc some bare hills 350 ft. high,
and at the extreme western end is a remarkable knob on the summit of a bare
hill. The southern shores arc broken into bays and creeks, obstructed by islets
and sunken rocks ; and there are several off-lying groups of islands.
Entrance Island, IJ mile southward of the South extreme of Aristazable
Island, is the outer island of a wooded group extending olF the point. White
Rock, 100 ft. high, bare and conspicuous, lies N.W. by W., 3 miles from
Entrance Island, and is the outer rock of a group extending 2 miles from the
shore. Sentinel Island, 250 ft. high, small, wooded, and conspicuous, lies
\^ mile from the shore, at 4 miles W. ^ N. from White Rock. Several rocks,
awash and sunken, lie northward of Sentinel Island, fringing the South shore
of Aristazable Island. The two most outlying rocks, which are from 1 to 2 ft.
above high water, lie respectively W. by N. 1 mile, and W.N.W. 4J miles
from Sentinel Island.
Gander Islands {Cha-che-Iucas) are a group of islands, islets, and rocks,
extending 10 miles|N.N.W. and S.S.E., and 4 miles wide, at about 6 miles
from the South shore of Aristazable Island. The larger islands of the group
are wooded, the tops of the trees being from 70 to 150 ft. above high water.
North Gander Island, the northernmost and largest, is about 2 miles long
N.N.W. and S.S.E., and half a mile broad. South-east Gander Islands,
100 ft. high, are two small wooded islands, 3 miles S.E. by E. from South
Gander Island. Goose Ledge, which uncovers, lies 3 miles S. by W. from
S.E. Gander Islands, and 3 miles S.E. i S. from South Gander Island.
Sparrowhaxvk Breakers were reported by H.M.S. Sparrojvhauk, 1809, to lie
respectively 4 and &^ miles S. by E. from the S.E. Gander Islands.
Tide Rip Islands consist of two groups lying N.N.W. and S.S.I'i. 2 miles
apart, the southern group lying 2 miles N. W. of the Gander Group. 'Ihcy
are 7 miles in extent^ N.N.W. and S.S.E., are wooded, and about 200 ft. high.
i
CAMPANIA SOUND-OIL ISLAND.
£43
The northern nnJ hirgost uland teriniuates, at its N.W. extreme, in con-
spicuous white clili's. At spring!) the tidal streams attain a rate of 4 knotH an
hour among these islands.
The Qandor and Tide liip groups and their vicinity, not having been
thoroughly examined, the channels between them should not bo attempted by
a stranger.
Campania Sound, between Princess Koyal Island and the South end of
Campania Islands, is 5 miles long N.N.E. and S.S.W., and 3 miles wide. On
the eastern shore, a conspicuous ridge of rounded hills rises to the height of
000 ft,, and ledges extend as far as .'J cables from the shore. At 3 cables from
the S.E. extreme of ('umpania Island lies Eclipse Island, small and wooded,
100 ft. high. For 1 mile northward of Eclipse Island, ledges uncover to the
distance of 5 cables off shore. South Surf Islarids, at the S.E. entrance of
the sound, consist of three wooded islands 250 ft. high, with several small,
rocky islets. North Surf Islands, 250 ft. high, three-quarters of a mile
W. by N. ^ N. from South Surf Islands, consist of three wooded islands,
1 mile in extent N.N.AV. and S.S.E.
Squally Channel, between Gil and Campania Islands, is 10 miles long
E.S.E. and W.N.W., and from 2J to 4.i miles wide. Violent squalls will
often be experienced here, descending from the high land of Campania Island,
when calms or light winds and smooth water w'ill be found in Whale Channel.
Gil Island, named Ysla dc Gil by Seiior Caamano, in 1792, forms the
North side of Squally Channel, and is 15 miles long N.W. by N. and S.E. by S.
by 6 miles broad. Mount Gil, 3,000 ft. high, lies near the N.E. end, and its
summit is clad with snow on the North side. A ridge of mountains, 1,500 to
2,000 ft. high, extends in a southerly direction from Mount Gil, curving
gradually to the south-eastward. The S.E. extreme of Gil Island is wooded,
flat, and low.
Channel Reef, uncovering at low water, extends 5 cables from Ledge Point,
the South extreme of Gil Island, and fringes the shore at the same distance for
IJ mile to north-westward. Windy Islets are three in number, the outer one
lying 5 cables from the shore, at 2 miles westward of Ledge Point. Windy
Rock, uncovered at low water, lies 5 cables E.S.E. from the outer islet.
Jilavh Rock, 2 cables from the "West extreme of Gil Island, covers at high
water, and is nearly steep-to.
Lewis Passage, between Gil and Fin Islands, takes a northerly direction
for 4 miles, and thence trends to N.W. for 4 miles, into Wright Sound,
with an average width of 1 \ mile.
Fin Island, 2 miles westward of Gil Island, is 4 miles long North and
South. Plover Point, its North extreme, has a large bay close southward of
it, with several islets lying in it, and drying tlaoughout at low water. Four
bare rocky islets fringe the North shore. Fin Rock, awash at high water, lies
2 cables from the South extreme of Fin Island.
iJ'^'^'^
IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-S)
//
4'^°. ^Lfi
w-
/.
■-'iiT^^
%'
fc
2e
1.0
I.I
1.25
2.5
2.2
2.0
1.8
U 111.6
Photographic
Sciences
Corporation
^
T
23 WEST MAIN STREiT
WEBSTER, N.Y. 14S80
(716) 872-4503
f\
•>^
#
<:
^\
[\
^v^:""^^
^^^u
it.
C/j
^
t
544
BRITISH COLUMBIA.
CriJge Paaage, between Fin and Farrant Islondo, is 3 miles long E.N.E.
and W.S.W., ond 1 mile wide.
Farrant Island, tx the S.E. entrance of Orenrille Channel, is 9 miles long
W.N.W. and E.S.E., and from 4 to 6 miles broad, reaching an elevation of
1,700 ft. on its South side. Block Head, the eastern extreme, terminates in a
high white cliff. Yolk Point, t!ie N.E. extreme, lies N.W. 4 miles from Block
Head and is smooth, bare, and rocky. Union Vaisai/e (Matliksimtas), between
Farrant and Pitt Islands, was not explored.
Whale Channel, between Princess Royal and Oil Islands, is 12 miles long
N.W. by N. i N. and S.E. by S. \ S., and from 2 to 3 miles wide. Leading
Point lies on the eastern shore, 5 miles southward of Holmes Bay (p. 534), and
over it is a conspicuous hill of triangular shape, 700 ft. high. River Light,
between Holmes Bay and Leading Point, has a large river at its head.
Maple Point, on the western shore, abreast of Holmes Bay, is comparatively
low, with maple trees growing on it. At 1 mile South of it is a sandy bay,
with a conspicuous sandy beach at its head. Shrub Point, 5 miles southward
of Maple Poiut, is comparatively low. Camp Islet lies 2 cables off shore, at
9 miles southward of Maple Point. It joins the shore at low water, and South
of it is a bay, 1 mile wide at its mouth, but occupied by a ledge of rocks,
Barnard Cove lies eastward of Trouble Island, at the South entrance of
Whale Channel, and affords shelter to boats and small craft, in 20 fathoms,
mud, 2 cables from the eastern shore.
Passage Island, at the junction of Whale Channel and Campania Sound, is
2 miles long North and South, the tops of the trees being about 250 ft. above
high water. Off its S.E. side, a group of islets and rocks extends 5 cables
south-eastward. The passages East and West of it are deep, and 6 cables wide.
Estevan Sound, between Estevan and Campania Islands, is about 15 miles
long W.N.W. and E.S.E., and from 2^ to 5 miles wide. At its S.E. ontranco
are several islets and rocks, nearly in mid-channel ; to a stranger, therefore,
Esteran Sound cannot be recommended. If compelled to xise it pass three-
quarters of a mile northward of South Watcher Islet.
Campania Island is nearly 15 miles long W.N.W. and E.S.E., and from
1 to 4 miles broad. It bus a conspicuous ridge of mountains, which oulmi-
nates in two bare dome-shaped summits, 2,000 ft. high, furnishing an excellent
IfTudmark. When seen from eastward a remarkable peak, nearly in the centre,
appears to rise considerably above the rest. The western end of the island is
comparatively low and wooded. Marble Rock, 5 cables N.W. of the N.W.
extreme, is 6 ft. above high water, small, white, and conspicuous. The
northern shore is bold, and the N.E. extreme terminates in a high white cliff.
The southern shore is low and wooded, fringed by islets and rocks to the dis*
tance of 1 mile.
South Watcher is a small wooded islet, 100 ft. high, lying nearly in mid-
channel at the eastern entrance of Estevan Sound, S.W. i W., 3} miles from
1
ESTKVAN ISLAND -NEPEAN SOUND.
5<13
Eclipse Island, and N.E. by E. i K. 3^ miles from I^rcakcr Puint. Ledges,
which uncover, extend 5 cables N.W. and S.E. of it. North IFatcher Islet,
60 ft. high, lies W. j N. 1 j mile from the South Watcher, and is surrounded
by ledges and sunken dangers to the distance of 8 cables. Blinder Rock,
breaking occasionally, lies S.W. by W. 1 mile from the South Watcher.
Ettevan Ledge, which uncovers, is a cable in extent, and lies 8 cables West of
the North Watcher. Breaker Point, the S.E. extreme of Estevan Island, is
low and wooded, and Don Ledge, which uncovers, extends 6 cables E.N.E. of
it. Breaker Reef, which nearly always breaks, extends nearly 1^ mile from
the shore, the outer rock lying 2 J miles S.W. of Breaker Point. Trap Rockt,
some awash at high water, extend 8 cables northward of the North extreme
of Estevan Island ; and thence front the western end of the island at th? dis-
tance of 6 to 2 cables.
ESTEVAN ISLAKD is about 14 miles long W. by N. and E. by S., and
from 2 to 5 miles broad. Its southern shores are comparatively low and
Avoodcd. Near the centre it attains an elevation of 1,500 to 1,700 ft., forming
a saddle-shaped mountain.
Haycock Island, small, bare, and 60 ft. high, lies W. by S. i S., 7 miles
from Breaker Point, and Haycock Rocks, three rocks awash, lie respectively
W. by S., S. by E., and N. by E., distant 1 mile from it. The passage between
Haycock and Estevan Islands should not be attempted.
Curtis Rock, breaking occasionally, lies 1 mile S.S.W. of Curtis Point.
Marchant Rock, over which the sea breaks at low water, lies 2 miles South
of Cox Point, the West extreme of Estevan Island, and IJ mile from the
nearest shore.
Cone Islet, small, wooded, and 250 ft. high, is the southernmost of the
Block Islets, and lies at the southern entrance of Otter Passage, at 2 miles
from the shore of Banks Island.
Otter Fauage leads to Nepoan Sound, between Estevan and Banks Islands ;
though nearly 1^ mile wide, it is obstructed on its western shore by Block Islets,
which contract the navigable channel to barely 4 cables wide in places. Thia
narrow channel is rendered more dangerous by the strong tides within it, and
in no case should Otter Passage be attempted, except ut slack water and with
local knowledge.
NEPEAN SOUND, between Estevan Sound and Principe Chauncl, is about
7 miles long ond 4 miles wide. Otter Channel leads westward from it to
Squally Channel, and is about 3^ miles long ; Sleep Point, its N.E. entrance
point, terminates in a high white cliff.
To the northward and westward of Ncpean Sound lie the extensive islands
forming Pitt Archipelago and Banks Island, separated from the continent by
Qrenvillo Canal, and from each other by the Canal de Principe; the first
80 named by Vancouver, on his exploration in 1793, and the latter by
North Paci/i«, 4 ▲
646
BRITISH COLUMBIA.
!
'.i ■(
i' 'I
.'I
Sciior Caamano, who first navigated it. The arc'npclago was named after th«
celebrated itatesman.
PBIHCIPS CHANNEL, between Banka Island and Pitt and McCauley
Islands, is about 42 milea long in a general W.N.W. and E.S.E. direction, and
from 2 1^ 7 miles wide. Its South shore is bold, with mountains from 1,200 to
1,700 ft. high over it. GaU Point is prominent, bold, and high, and lies
9 miles north-westward of Block Islets. A remarkable bore mountain, 1,260 ft.
high, lies close to the shore at 3 miles westward of Gale Point. Deadman
hUt, small and wooded, lies close off the North extreme of Banks Island, and
at 2 miles eastward of it is End Hill, an oval-shaped hill 460 ft. high, close to
the shore.
The North shore, the southern side of Pitt Island, is much broken, espe*
cially about midway, into bays, and the mountains, at about 3 miles from the
shore, rise to the height of 1,000 to 3,000 ft. Wolf Point, the S.E. entrance
point of Principe Channel, is high and conspicuous ; Brodie Rock, a dangerous
suukcn rock, lies 1 mile S.W. by W. i W. from it. Between Brodie Kock
and the shore the ground is foul to 2 miles westward of Wolf Point.
Port Stephens, on the North shore, at about 8 miles from Wolf Point, is
4 cables wide at its entrance, and thence extends N. by E. 6 cables, then N.E.
G cables, and thence in an easterly direction for 8 cables, terminating in two
bays, with a large stream at the head of the southern bay. It was named by
Capt. Duncan, in the Princess Royal, in 1788. Some islets lie westward of
the entrance. To reach the harbour keep about mid-channel, and haul
gradually to the eastward as the harbour opens out, and anchor in mid-
channel in about 12 fathoms. It is high water, on full and change, at 0** 30" ;
springs rise 18 feet.
Bluff Point, the western entrance point of Port Stephens, terminates in a
high white cliff. Oar Point lies W.N.W. 6 miles from Bluff Point ; west-
ward of it the coast recedes northward, terminating in Mink Trap Bay. Canoe
aaHGreen Top Islets, lying off the entrance of this bay, are both small, and
named from their appearance.
Mink Trap Bay, consists of two long narrow creeks, separated by a
peninsula ; this bay is useless as an anchorage for other than small vessels and
boats. At the head of the eastern arm is a village, to which a tribe of Indians
resort in summer for salmon fishing.
Anger Island, on the North shore, 9 miles westward of Oar Point, is about
4 miles long and 2 miles broad, with shoals extending 5 to 7 cables from its
South and East sides. Trade and Storm Islets extend from 6 cables to 1|
mile from its South and ea»tern shores
MeCanley Island, on the North shore, is 17 miles long, 9 miles broad, and
wooded nearly throughout. Near its centre it rises to the height of 1,1 GO ft.
Table Hill, 400 ft. high, lies close to the South shore. Off the S.E. end are
Vyteeler and Cliff Islets.
i
i
It
I
PEINCIPE CHANNEL— HANKS ISLAND.
647
Port Canaveral (of ScHor Caamano) lies near the S.E. extreme of
McCauIey Island. Diron Island lies on the western side of the port, with
several rocks and islets lying off its South and eastern rides. Alarm Rock is
a dangerous sunken rock, lying nearly in mid-chonnel at the mouth of I'ort
Canaveral, at 2 cables W.N.W. from Squall Point, and 2^ cables from Bed
Point Harbour Bank, with 6 fathoms over it (probably less), lies 1^ cablo
eastward of Alarm Uock.
Clown Rock, the outer danger extending S.E. of Dixon Island, dries 3 ft.,
and lies S.E. by E., 3 cables from Tonkin Point, the South extreme. Stephen
Rock, 3 ft. about high water, lies 1^ cable from Dixon Isl'ind ; its outer
portion, which uncovers, lies S.E. 2\ cables from Dimple Poitii, the N.E. ex-
trcme of Dixon Island.
Entering Port Canaveral, Dimple Point may be steered for when in lino
with Stephen Rock, N.W. by W., until Bush Islet, off the S.W. extreme of
Dixon Island, is just shut in with Tonkin Point, W.S.W. Tlie latter mark
kept on astern will lead to the anchorage ground, in 14 to 15 fathoms, sand,
at 1 J cable N.E. of the North entrance point, Rod Point. It is high water, on
full and change, at 0** 30*" ; springs rise 1 8 feet.
Petrel Channel, between Pitt and McCauley Islands, was not examined.
Its southern entrance is about 3 miles wide, thence the channel runs N.W. for
nearly 8 miles, when it divides, one passage running northward, the other
southward of Lofty Island, and again joining at 2 miles eastward of Ogden
Channel.
Ilankin Ledges extend nearly 1 mile off Ilankin Point, the S.W. extreme of
McCauley Island.
The mid-channel course should be kept when navigating Principe Channel,
until ncaring Anger Island, when the South shore should be neared to avoid
the dangers which extend off that island. The tidal streams run 3 knots an
hour at springs.
BANKS ISLAND is about 41 miles long W. by N. and E. by S., and from
5 to 10 miles broad. The southern shore is wooded and comparatively low,
seldom exceeding the height of 150 ft. This shore is broken into bays and
creeks, rendered useless as anchorages by numerous rocks awash, and sunken
dangers, extending 2 miles off in soaic places. Calamity Bay, at the S.E. ex-
treme of Banks Island, has iron-bound shores, with rocky islets and sunken
dangers occupying the bay nearly throughout. Breaker Islets lie off its South
•ide, the highest islet being about 70 ft. high, and wooded.
Terror Point, at the South extreme of Banks Island, is hi^h and bold,
200 ft. above high water. Terror Rocks, which break heavily, extend 1 mile
south-eastward of it.
Shrub Illet, 80 ft. high, with a conspicuous patch of bush on its summit,
lies 3 miles S.W. from Terror Point, and is surrounded by sunken rocks to the
distance of 3 cablcsi
MS
BRITISH COLUMBIA.
North Danger Rooki, 7 miles S.S.AV. of Wreck Point, nnd 12^ miles west-
ward of Bhrub Islet, consist of five bare rocks, 10 ft above high water, sur-
rounded by rockj, awash and sunken, to the distance of 5 cables. Vessels
■hould keep southward of the line joining Shrub Islet and North Danger llocks,
and not pass between those dangers and Banks Island.
Halibnt Rookl consist of two dangerous clusters, covered at high water,
each about 5 cables in extent, lying W.N.W. and E.S.U., lj[ mile apart.
The centre of the eastern cluster lies E.S.K., 9 miles from the summit of
Bonila Island, and S.E. by S., 4^ miles from Cliif Point. Cliff Point termi-
nates in high white cliffs.
Bonila Island, O miles S.S.E. from the N.W. point of Banks Island, and
4 miles from the shore, is an excellent landmark. It is about 2 miles long,
East and West, and I mile broad, and near the centre reaches an elevation of
650 ft. The summit is dome-shaped, and during the summer is clothed with
purple-tinted heather. Landing may be effected at the head of the southern
small bay on the eastern side of the island.
South lioc/ii, two small clusters awash at high water, lie S.S.E. and N.N. W.,
1 mile apart. The southern group lies S.S.E. about 3^ miles from the sum-
mit of Bonila Island. High-water liocks, nearly midway between Bonila and
Cliff Point, arc awash at high water, about 2 cables in extent, at 2\ miles
E. ^ S., from the summit of Bonila. North-tcest Iloc/ts, lialf a mile in extent,
lie N.W. by W. 2 miles from the summit of Bonila ; the highest is 3 ft. above
high water. North liocks, about 5 cables in extent are awash at high water,
and lie E.NE. 1 ^ mile from the centre of North-west Rocks. Middle liocks,
two clusters awash at low water, lie respectively W.N.W. 1^ mile, and N.N.E.
2 miles from the summit of Bonila.
White Bock* lie close to the western extreme of Banks Island ; the two
largest are about 30 ft. high, bare and conspicuous. They form an excellent
landmark. Anchorngc for small craft, in fine weather, is stated to exist close
northward of White Rocks, at the mouth of a creek.
OGDEN CHANNEL, between Pitt and Porcher Islands, is about 1 6 miles
long, and from 4 cables to 1} mile wide. It affords the shortest means of
communication between Skidegatc Inlet, Queen Charlotte Islands, and the
inner waters, and runs into the North end of Grenville Channel (p. 637). At
its southern end the channel is divided by Spicer Island into two passages.
The flood stream comes from the southward, and both flood and ebb streams,
in the narrow portions of the channel, attain a velocity of 4 knots an hour
at springs.
On Dolphin Island Nubble Mountain, with an irregular broken summit,
rises to a height of 1,400 ft. ; S.E. of it, and close to the shore, lies False Cone
Hill. Off the S.E. shore of Dolphin Island lie two small islets, and some
rocks ; Sentinel Islet, the eastern islet, lies about a mile off shore, is wooded
and about 100 ft. high. On the eastern side of Dolphin Island, I'assaye Cont
OODEN CHANNEL— CHATHAM SOUND.
549
Hill rises to the height of 454 ft., ond is a useful mark for indicating Schooner
Passage.
Spioer Island is of triangular shape, ond 2^ miles long, attaining near its
centre on elevation of 827 ft. Oft* its S.W. side, nt 5 cables from the shore,
are Chrittie laleli, a cluster of islets and rocks. At 1 ^ mile southward of
Spieer Island is Long Iiland, low and wooded, Channel Islet lying nearly
midway between,
Chunnel Group lies 1 mile northward of Spieer Island, and half a mile
northward of it lie some small islets. South Twin lelet is a small wooded islet
on the eastern shore, 5 cables from the eastern bare ulet of the Channel Group
and 1 mile northward of Spieer Island. North Twin Islet lies 5 cables
N.N.W. of South Twin Islet; the tops of the trees on it are about 130 ft.
high. Several islets lie between the Twins and McCauley Island.
Beayer Faaiage, between McCauley and Spieer Islands, is the wider and
better of the two passages leading into Ogden Channel. At its western
entrance it is about 5 cables wide, a\ d runs N.E. by N. for about 4^ miles,
thence sharply to N.N.W. for 2i miles. To poss through it keep about mid-
channel. North Hock, always visible, lies nearly in mid-channel at 5 cables
S.E. of Long Island. Connia Jlocka extend 3 cables from the N.IO. extreme of
Spieer Island, the outer rock only covering nt high water.
Schooner Passage, between Spieer and Dolphin Islands, is barely 2 cables
wide in its narrowest part, and is about 3 miles long North and South. i?oy«
Hock, a dongerouB sunken rock, lies nt its suuthem end, 2 cables from the
S.E. extreme of Dolphin Island. Sentinel Island bearing W.N.W. will lead
southward ; and Passage Cone Hill bearing N. by W. will lead eastward of
Boys Rock. The passage lies between this rock and Christie Islets.
To pass through Schooner Passage, when abreast the North end of Spieer
Island, pass midway between that island and the Channel Group to the North
end of Beaver Passage.
Alpha Bay, on the eastern shore, 4 miles within the North entrance of
Ogden Channel, is nearly i mile wide, but only 3 cables deep. Neor its
northern end a deep valley extends inland, and through it flows a fine trout
stream. Anchorage may be found in 10 and II fathoms, 1^ cable from the
shore, with the South entrance point of the stream bearing N.E., distant 2^
cables; and Anchor Mountain, 1,934 ft. high, over the North shore of the
bay, N.E. i N. It is high water, on full and change, at noon ; springs rise
18 to 19 feet.
At 1 mile South of Alpha Bay, there is a remarkable white patch on the
rocky eastern shore.
Peninsula Point, the N.W. entrance point of Ogden Channel, is prominent,
with a hill near its eastern extreme. Northward of it lies Ootia Bay.
CHATHAl. SOUND ir an extensive sheet of water about 38 miles long
N.W. by N. and S.E. by S., and from 7 to 14 miles wide. It lies between
550
BaiTISn COLUMBIA.
the Taimpwnn Peninsuln and Stcplicns nnd Dundas Islands, its N.W. portion
washing the southern shores of Alaska. It communicates with Ilccatc Strnit
by three channels, Edye Passage, in the S.W. comer of the sound, being the
channel usually taken. The eastern shores of the sound are low, ond 8ome«
what indented with small bays, s a '^ounded by reefs. The interior country
oonsista of snowy mountains, and i! ero arc several conspicuous mountains near
the coast. The shores and islands produce large numbers of pino trees.
There are numerous detached groups of islands, islets, and rocks in the
sound, the relative positions of which will be best understood by referring to
the charts, llie southern portion of the sound is comparatively free from
danger, the rocky clusters being of considerable elevation above high water
and moderately steep-to. Northward of Mctlah-Catlah Bay, however, ledges
which uncover at low water extend in many places to the distance of 2 miles
from shore. Abreast Port Simpson, two clusters of rocks lie in the fairway of
the sound ; and being but little elevated above high water, render that portion
of the sound dangerous by night or in thick weather. Northward of Metlah-
Catloh Bay, during a fog, or if uncertain of the position, the eastern shore
should not bo approached under 70 fathoms; nor the western shore under
40 fathoms.
Point Hunt, the N.W. point of Malacca Passage (p. 539), is very con-
spicuous, and forms the North point of Pitt Archipelago. It is in lat.
54° 0^' N., ond from it the North shore of Porcher Island takes an irregular
direction of S.W. by S. to Point Pcarce, the southern point of Ilefuge Bay, the
intermediate space having several rocks off it.
Ooll Bockl, about half a mile in extent, the highest being about 30 ft. high,
lie W. by N., 3 miles from Hunt Point. Ettrick Rock, uncovering 3 ft., lies
8.E. by E., 1^ mile from the centre of Gull Bocks. Ilavelock Rock, un-
covering 6 ft., lies S.W. I W., 1 mile from Hunt Point.
Green Top Islet, 16 ft. high, lies N.W. by W. J W., 4J miles from the
western Lawyer Island (p. 539). Holland Itlet, 10 ft. high, lies E. by
N. } N., If mile from Oreen Top Islet, and at 1^ mile N.E. ^ E. of it is
KHion Islet, off the mouth of North 8keena Passage. Kinnahan Islands, two
in number, lie about a mile ftom the shore, and are about 200 ft. high. The
South Island lies 1^ mile N.N.W., from Green Top Island.
Rachel Illands {Lak-oh-witt) consist of two islands, about 1 mile in extent,
N.W. and S.E., wooded, and about 200 ft. high, lying nearly midway between
Tsimpsean Peninsula and Stephen Island. The S.E. island lies N.W., 3| miles
f^om Gull Rocks; and S.W. by W., 5^ miles from South Kinnahnn Island.
Alexandra Patch, 1 mile in diameter, has depths of 10 to 20 fathoms, over a
bottom of mud and sand. The eastern edge lies I mile North of Bachel
Islands.
Lnoy Itluidf are a group of islands and high-water rocks, the lorge islands
being wooded. They lie nearly in the middle of the sound abreast Metloh*
CHATHAM SOUND— METLAH-CATLAH DAY.
fiftl
Catlah Bay, and are about 1 inilo in extent Eoat abd West. Tbo eaatern and
largest island i» 200 ft. high, and lies N.W. 5| miles from North Kaohel
Island. This group is of great use when making Metlah-Catlah during thick
weather. A ledgo of rooks, which jiartially uncover, extends from 4 to 9
cables southward of the Lucy Group, the outer rook lying South 9 cables from
the casti'rn ittliiud.
T8IHPSEAN PEHINSULA separates Skeena River (p. 539) from Work
Channel ; it is nearly 32 miles long N.W. and S.E., with a greatest breadth of
miles.
][ETLAH.CATLAH BAT is formed between Digby and Tugwell Islands,
and has a large Indian village on its North shore. Tugwell Island is about
1 1 mile long North and South, and 200 ft. high to the tops of tho trees ; it is
fringed by dangerous rooky ground, especially on its S.E. side, and at low
water is connected with Mission Point, .-^l/ord Reefa lie midway between tho
South end of Tugwell Islaud and Cridge Iilandt, tho latter lying on the S.K.
side of the entrance to the bay ; these reefs are about 3 cables in extent, the
northern rock uncovering 2 ft. at low water. Northward of Cridge Islands
the shore of Digby Island is fronted by shoals and rocks.
Devastation Island, half a mile eastward of Tugwell Island, lies near the
centre of the bay ; it is nearly one-third of a mile long North and South, and
150 ft. high, with two islets close off its South end. From its North end a
shoal, partly uncovered at low water, extends 5 cables N.E. towards Piko
Island, and southward of this lino are several islets. Carr Islet, about 60 ft.
high, lies 5 cables N. by E. from Devastation Island, and is connected at low
water with the spit joining Tugwell Island to Observation Point, the latter
being in lat. 64° 20' 10' N., long. 130» 27' 30" W.
Eastward of Carr Islet the navigable channel becomes much contracted by
shoal water on each side, and Kelp Rock, a, dangerous sunken rock, nearly
midway between Observation Point and Shrub Islet on the opposite side,
narrows it to barely a cable wide at low water. Mission Point lies three-
quarters of a mile N.E. by E. i E. from Observation Point; Venn Creek here
extends to E. by S. and has several Indian salmon-fishing stations on its
shores.
The village of Mellah- Catlah is situated on Mission Point, the population
being estimated at over 1,000 in number. There is a mission station here,
where the young Indians, most of whom speak English, ore taught useful
trades, llie houses of the mission stand about 100 ft. above high water, and
have a picturesque appearance. Tliere is a salmon cannery here.
In entering Metlah-Catlah Bay, Carr Islet just shut in with the West
extreme of Devastation Island, bearing N. by E., northerly, will lead between
Alford Reefs and the foul ground off Tugwell IsUmd. The flagstaff on Mission
Point in line with tho West extreme of Pike Islond, N. by E., leads eastward
of Alford Reefs. Anchorage will be found in 11 to 12 fathoms, mud, 3 cables
062
BRITISH COLUMHIA.
off the West side of Devastation Island ; with the South extreme in line with
the smaller Cridgo Island, bearing S.K. by S., and thu South extreme of Carr
Islet in line with the flagstaff on Mission Point, N.lr!. | N. Small vessels
occasionally proceed into Venn Oreok and anchor off the village, in 10 to 12
fathoms, but the channel into this anchorage is barely 60 yards wide at low
water, and should only bo attempted by short vessels of light draught. It it
high water at Metlah-Catlah, on full and change, at noon ; springs rise 21 ft.
Approaching Metlah-Catlah from the south-eastward, if the Lawyer Qroup
bo kept in lino with Orccn Top Island, S.K. by £. i E., that mark ustem will
lead directly to the entrance of Metlah-Catlah Bay. In thick weather, do not
shoal to less than 40 fathoms, and Lucy Islands should be cautiously steered
for and made, taking care to avoid the reefs on their South side. The large
island should bo brought to boar S.W. ^ W. astern, and a N.E. i E. course
should take a vessel to the mouth of Metlah-Catlah Bay. The bank of 10
fathoms and less water extends nearly 1 mile southward of TugwcU Island, and
the hand lead, if proceeding slowly, should indicate its position.
DUNCAN BAY, on tho North side of TugwcU Island, affords anchorage to
vessels desirous of communicating with Metlah-Catlah during the prevalence
of south-easterly winds. Its entrance is about If mile wide, and thence it
takes an easterly direction for about 1^ mile, terminating in the sandspit
which connects Tugwoll Island and Observation Point. Shoal water extends
5 cables northward of Tugwcll Island, and ledges and sunken rocks extend
ncorly 7 cables from tho North shore of tho bay. Jlecale Hock, with 10 ft.
water over it, lies near the head of the bay.
To anchor in Duncan Bay, pass 1 mile north-westward of Tugwell Island
and when the South extreme of Oribbell Island is seen just open of Observa-
tion Point E. i S., that mark should bo steered for, and a berth taken up on
that bearing, in 8 to 10 fathoms, mud, with the N.W. extreme of Tugwell
Island bearing S.W. by W.
Tree Bluff, tho South entrance point of Big Bay, lies 5 miles N.W. by
N. i N. from Ryan Point, the North point of Duncan Bay. The shore
between is low and wooded, but at 3 miles back from the coast it rises into
high land; tho two most conspicuous mountains being Mission Mountain,
1,310 ft., and Deer Mound, 2,230 ft. high. Immediately southward of Tree
Bluff is a wooded hill, close to the shore, 250 ft. high.
Between Metlah-Catlah and Big Bays, dangerous ledges extend off shore in
many places to the distance of 2 miles. These ledges uncover at low water,
and arc steep-to. Abreast Tree Bluff the edge of the bank, which dries at low
water, lies 1^ mile from the shore.
Hodgson Eeeft are a dangerous cluster of reefs which lie north-westward
of Duncan Bay. Their South part, which uncovers at low water, lies N.W.,
2 miles from Tugwell Island, and W.N.W., If mile from Ryan Point. From
that position, dangerous sunken rooks extend in a N.N.W. directioq for
w
Ij
CHATHAM SOUND— BIG BAY.
MS
2 miles. The South side of Kinnahan iBlandH, juat showing clear of Tugwell
Island, S.E. | E., leads westward of Hodgson Reeft ; the eastern Lucy Island,
if not brought to bear South of S. by E., astern, until Mount Ori/Bn is seen in
line with the North end of Burntcliff Island N. by E. ^ E., leads westward of
all dangers off Big Bay entrance.
BIO BAT (Lak-IIou), is 2^ miles wide at its entrance between Tree Bluff
and South Island, and takes an easterly direction for 3| miles. The head
of the bay, named Salmon River Biyht, into which run several streams, is
fronted by a sand-flut, drying 1 mile out at low water. South ItLnd is small
and wooded, with a sharp summit 50 ft. high. A ledge of sunken rooks
extends 5 cables S. ^ W. from South Island, and eastward of it, on the edge
of the reefs, lie Ilaycock and White Cliff Islets, the latter terminating^ in high
white cliffs. A S-fathoms bank lies 3 cables S.E. of White Cliff Island.
Shaltock Point, 3 cables E.N.E. of Wliite Cliff Island, is the N.W. point of
Salmon Biver Bight.
Ripple Dank, about 2 cables in extent, has 12ft. least water over it, -indy
bottom, near the eastern end: at about a mile S. by W. | W., from South
Island. Escape Reefs are a dangerous cluster of reefs lying in the mouth
of Big Bay. The western vecf has 4 ft. water over it, and lies S. J W,
\\ mile from South Island. The eastern reef, 5 cables to E.N.E., has 5 ft.
water over it. In summer kelp is found in great quantities upon Escape
Kcefs, and near the head of Big Bay.
Sharp Peak, 2,970 ft. high, on the ridge S.E. of Mount OrifBn, in line with
the South end of Swallow Island, on the North shore of the bay, bearing
E. by N., will lead directly into Big Bay, where anchorage will be found in
11 and 12 fathoms, mud, with Haycock Island in line with the North extreme
of South Island, N.W. by W. J W., and \VTiite Cliff Island in line with Mount
Griffin, N. by W. J W.
Bnrntoliff Island, northward of South Island, is about half a mile long, and
wooded, rising near its North end to 200 ft. high. Its North extreme termi-
nates in high reddish-brown cliffs ; the N.E. extreme is cultivated, and from
that point a long bank of shingle, awash at high water, extends 3 cables in a
Aorth-easterly direction. The whole space inshore of South and Burntcliff
Islands, uncovers at low water. One Tree Islet, 4 cables N.W. of Burntcliff
Island, has a sharp wooded summit, 150 ft. high, and is surrounded by a
ledge, which uncovers.
Flat Top Islands, 3^ cables northward of One Tree Islet, consist of three
wooded islands, surrounded by ledges and foul ground to the distance of
1^ cable.
Sparrowhawk Book, a dangerous sunken pinnacle rock, with 5 ft. water,
lies N.W. J N., nearly 5 cables from the North extreme of One Tree Islet.
H.M.S. Sparrotchauk struck un it in I8G6. It lies nearly midway betweoii One
North Pacific. 4 u
I
Ml
i
i !
BRITISH COLUMBIA.
Tre« and Fin1uy»oii iBlanda. and is stoop- to. Leading Peak, the first peak to
the S.E. on the ridge from Mount Qriffin, just open southward of the wood-
cutting establishniont abreast Otter Anchorage, R. by N. | N., will lead
northward of the rock, and southward of DodJ Rock, which lies a little
over 2 cables South from Fortune Point, with ledges between. Dodd Rock
only covers at the highest equinoctial tides, and there is deep water a short
distance southward of it.
Pearl Harbonr, eastward of One Tree Islet, is nearly 5 cables in diameter,
and affords good anchorage in 9 to 10 fathoms, mud, near the middle.
Finlayion Island is 2| miles long N.W. i N. and S.E. ^ S., and 1 mile
broad, 200 ft. high, and wooded. Fortune Point, its South extreme, termi*
nates in cliffs ; but Gordon Point, the North extreme, is compnrati' ely low,
with ledgt") uncovering 2 cables to the northward.
Red Cliff Point, on the East side of Cunningham Passage, f> cables X.E.
from Fortune Point, h rendered conspicuous by the high cliiTs over it, aad the
small islet close to.
Ottor Anchorage, at the South end of Cunningham Passage, near the
eastern shore, is useful if communicating with the wood-cutting establinhm'^nt
abreast it. Anchorage in 15 to 17 fathoms, nnnd, will be found with the
centre of the establishment in line with Leading Peak, K. by N. \ N., and the
northernmost Flat Top Island S. by E., distant 1^ cable. Tlie wood-cutting
establishment, from which the principal supplies for Port Simpson are
obtained, lies near the middle of a sandy bay, which dries nearly throughout
at low water.
Ctmningham Paaiage, eastward of Finlayson Island, is barely Z^ cables
wide in its southern part, but northward of Sarah Point, the N.E. extreme
of Finlayson Island, it widens out. To enter it steer N.E. for Red Cliff Point
in line with Fortune Point, until the mark comes on for clearing Sparrowhawk
Bock.
PORT SIMPSON is the most spacious harbour on this part of the coast,
and has a large area of smooth water anchorage, easy of access at all times of
tide. At its entrance, between One Tree Islet and Birnie Island, it is nearly
li mile wide; thence it takes an easterly direction for about 3^ miles, con-
tracting gradually as the head is approached, and terminating in a narrow
bight, named Stumaun Bay, which dries. At its head are several streams,
where salmon are caught. Mount Griffin, with its triangular summit, 1,410 ft.
high, southward of the port, is conspicuous, and on the North shore ore two
wooded hills, about 870 ft. high, named George and Lizzie. The mouth of a
lagoon, on that shore, is also conspicuous.
The greatest depth in Port Simpson is 29 fathoms, but the average depths
near the anchorage ground nre from 12 to 18 fathoms, mud. The usual
anchorage lies off the fort, in about 10 fathoms ; a good berth is with Parkin
Islands just open northward of Birnie Island, bearing N.W., westerly. A
CiIATIIAM SOUND— POilT STMrsON.
m
rnndjr patch of S fathoma liea off Fort Simpaon, with the Fort gato bearing
S.K. i E., and the polo on One Tree Talct, 8.W. 4 cable.
Village Iiland, at the S.W. entrance nf Port Simpnon, ia about 2^ cable*
long, and liea about a cable fVom the shore, with which it ia connected at half
tide ; on ita aouthem extreme is a Taimpaean Tillage, oonneoted with the ahore
bj a bridge. Near its N.W. extreme in a high pole. The observation spot,
on the N.W. extreme, is in lat. 64" 83' 61' N., long. 130» 26' 36" W. One
Trtt Islet lies close to the N.W. extreme of Village Island, and near ita
western end st^inds (or stood) a conspicuous decayed tree.
Birnie Island, at the N.W. entrance of Port Simpson, is three-qnartera of n
mile long North and South, and rises to a height of 330 ft. Ledges, which
uncover, extend 1 cable from Knox Point, its South extreme. The channel
northward of the island is obstructed by ledges.
Hankin Ree/t, which partially uncover, lie S.W. of Village Island, their
S.W. extreme being distant a little over 3 cables. Fortune Point just simi
in with Sarah Point, S. by E. 4 F . loads westward of them. Harbour Hee/i,
an extensive plateau of rocks awash at high water, form a natural breakwater
at the mouth of Port > npson, and protect the anchorage from N.W. winds.
It is nearly square in shape, and about 1 mile in extent, the S.E. portion lying
W.N.W.. 2^ cables from Une Tree Islet.
Dodd PaiMge lies between Ono Tree Islet and Harbour Reefs, and leads to
the anchorage off Fort Simpson ; it is 2 cables wide, with depths of 6 and 8
fathoms in it, and is available for steam-vessels, but local knowledge ia neccs-
aary. The mouth of the Ingoon on the North shore of Port Simpson, seen just
open westward of One Tree Islet, bearing N.E. i N., leads through.
Inskip Passage, the northern and principal entrance into Port Simpson,
lies between Birnie Island and Harbour Kcefs, and is a little over 6 cables
wide, with depths of 11 to 20 fathoms. In approaching from the Cunningham
Passage, Sarah Point in line with the South point of a bay on the eastern
shore bearing S.E. i E., astern, will lead midway between Harbour Reefs and
Finlayson Island.
Lizzie Hill, bearing N.E., will lead through the centre of Inskip Passage,
nntil Parkin Island is seen just open northward of Birnie Island, bearing
N.W., westerly, which mark kept on astern will lead up to the anchorage.
FORT SIMPSON was originally formed by the Hudson Bay Company at
the mouth of Nass River, but in 1831 the trading post was removed hither, on
account of the good anchorage found in the vicinity and the facilities afforded
tp sailing vessels. It stands near the S.W. entrance point of the b: v, close to
the beach, and when seen from seaward presents a strong and compact ap«
pearance. A large entry gato faces the beach, with a landing jetty of stones in
front of it. Excellent potatoes, lettuces, and radishes are grown, also rasp-
berries and strawberries in abundance. The climate is very uncertain. The
Company's trading steam-vessel calls periodically at Port Simpson, bringing
i;:i
656
BRITISH COLUMBIA.
!
r '
i
;!i
;i
supplies and returning with the Airs. Wood, water, potatoes, and crabs, can
be obtained in Port Simpson.
Before the fort was built, the villages of the Tsimpsean Indians were at
Metlah-Catlah, but the tribe being great traders, as well as hunters, thej
migrated nearer the trading post, and settled along the beach on either side of
the fort, and upon Village Island. In front of the houses high poles are
erected, with grotesque carvings on them. In 1868 the Indians numbered
about 2,000; in 1884 they were stated to number only about 800. There
is a Methodist mission here.
The language of trading, and for communication generally between tribes
speaking different dialects, is called Chinook. This jargon consists of English,
French, and Indian words strung together, with no grammatical basis. It is
readily acquired, and almost universally spoken by the coast tribes from the
Columbia River to Alaska.
The great :rise and fall of tide here permits a vessel to be beached ; a good
site will be found for this purpose just westward of the fort, the bottom con-
sisting of hartl sand, wifh a covering of weeds.
Tides. — It is high water at Port Simpson, on full and change, at 1** 30" ;
springs rise 17 vo 22 ft., neaps 14 to 17 feet.
For swinging to Uocertain the deviation of the compass, the hearing of the
knob at the North end of Table Hill on Dundas Island, froiu th? anchorage in
Port Simpson, is N. 76° 00' W. {true), distant 12 miles.
Parkin Islands, about 1^ mile N.W. | N. from Birnie Island, are about a
cable in extent N.W. and S.E., and though small, are 250 ft. high, wooded
and conspicuous. Codfish, of large size, are caught on a bank of 33 fathoms,
between these islands and Pointers Rocks.
Maskeljrne Point, the 8.E. entrance point of Portland Inlet, was so named
after the astronomer ; it lies li mile N. J E. of Parkin Islands, and S.E. ^ S.
3 miles from Wales Point, the N.W. point of Portland Inlet entrance.
Work or Wark Channel. — Immediately northward of Point Maskelyne is
the narrow entrance to this branch, which takes a general E. by S. ^ S.
direction for 32 miles, its head approaching the N.E. part of Skecna River
entrance, thus forming the land into a peninsula. Its S.W. shores are nearly
straight and compact ; its general width from 1^ to 2 miles, excepting near
the entrance, where it has a breadth of about 4 cables for a distance of 7 miles.
Here the tide runs at the rate of about 4 knots. An arm diverges from its
N.E. shore, at 23 miles within the entrance, and trends in a general N.E.
direction, but is made into a tortuous channel by a remarkably steep, rocky
precipice, which at high water becomes an island. It had formerly been
appropriated to the residence of a very numerous tribe of Indians. Wark
Channel has not been closely examined.
PRESCOTT and STEPHEN ISLANDS lie in the S.W. part of Chatham
Sound, with a boat passage between them. Together thoy are about 12 miles
CHATHAM SOUND— EDYE PASSAGE.
667
long W. by N. and E. by S., of triangular shape. Prescott Island is 820 ft.
high ; Stephen Island attains an elevation of 1,340 ft. near its East end, but its
southern shores are comparatiTely low, with some white cliffs near the centre.
Tree-nob Groups are an extensive labyrinth of islands, islets, and rooks
awash at low water, which extend 6 miles in a north-westerly direction from
the N.W. side of Stephen Island. The larger islets are wooded, and Van-
couver describes them as " an intricate inhospitable labyrinth." Butterworth
Rocks are a dangerous cluster, the southernmost 10 ft. high, with several
patches which uncover extending three-quarters of a mile north-westward of
it. This rock lies 3^ miles S.W. by 8. f S. from the S.W. island of the Tree-
nob Group.
EOYE PASSAGE, on the South side of Prescott and Stephen Islands, is
the channel usually taken between Chatham Sound and Hecate Strait. It is
comparatively free from danger, and at its northern end is Refuge Bay, an
excellent anchorage. The flood approaches from the westward, and both
streams set through the passage, at an average rate of 2 knots an hour.
Goschen Island, on the South side of the western entrance of Edye Passage,
is separated from Porcher Island by Canoe Passage, which was not examined.
Cape George, in lat. 53° 51' N., is its S.W. point, and for 5 miles northward
of this the coast is fronted by a rocky ledge of 4 to 8 fathoms, extending nearly
4 miles off, with several rocks, awash and sunken, within a mile of the shore.
Oval Hill, 630 ft. high, near the West extreme of the island, is conspicuous,
and 2 miles northward of it is a flat- topped hill, 170 ft. high.
Seal Rocks, a small cluster 10 ft. high, lie 6 miles W.N.W. of Oval Hill,
and 4 miles S.W. by S. } 8. from Cape Ibbetson. Warrior Rocks, 30 ft. high,
are two bare rocks 8 cables apart, E. by S. and W. by N., the eastern rock
lying 3 J miles N.W. i W. from Seal Rocks.
Cape Ibbetson, the southern entrance point of Edye Passage, and the N.W.
point of Pitt Archipelago, is a very conspicuous projecting land. It is the
North point of William Island, to the eastward uf which is Henry Island.
Arthur Island lies on the opposite side of the passage, off the southern side of
Prescott Island. Iruscott Patch, with 16 ft. water upon it, lies IJ mile
E.N.E. from Cape Ibbetson, and 6 cables off Henry Island. Foul ground
extends 3 cables off the S.E. side of Ai-thur Island.
Directions. — Approaching Edye Passage from the southward, to clear the
ledges off Goschen Island, the eastern portion of the high white cliffs on the
South side of Stephen Island should not be brought to bear westward of North
until Oval Hill is seen in line with Seal Rocks, S.E. by E. j E. Thence
steer N.E. J N. until the South and S.E. points of Arthur Island are in
line, which may then be steered for, bearing E. by N. J N. Pass half a mile
southward of the South extreme of Arthur Island, and when the entrance
points of Refuge Bay are seen in line, steer for them, bearing N.E. by N.,
taLlng care to avoid the small patch which nncovers at low water, 3 ca'ulcs off
f
I ■ !
It
!l
5&8
BRITISH COLUMBIA.
the South point of Useless Bay. Pass 2 to 3 cables westwoi-d of Pearce Point,
the South entrance point of Refuge Bay, and to enter Chatham Sound a
N.W. by N. course should then be steered towards Rachel Islands, passing
midway between that group and OuU Rocks.
Refuge Bay, at the N.W. extreme of Forcher Island, is an excellent
stopping-place during south-easterly winds, and here the state of the weather
in Hecate Strait can be ascertained. The entrance is 7 cables wide, and it
thence takes a south-easterly direction for about a mile, terminating in a sand-
flat which extendd neaily 5 cables from its head. Anchorage will be found in
12 to 14 fathoms, sand and mud, near the middle of the bay, with Table Point,
the North entrance point, bearing N.N.W., and Pearce Point, W. by S. ^ S.
It is high water in Befuge Bay, on full and change, at 1** 30"* ; springs rise
17 to 22 ft., neaps 14 to 17 feet.
Brown Passage, between Tree-nob Islands and South Duudas Island, is
about 6 miles long and 5 miles wide. Nearly in mid-channel, however, lie
Hanmer Rocks, dividing it into two channels. This passage is not recom-
mended to strangers ; the tides off the entrance are strong and irregular.
Stenhouse Shoal has only about 7 ft. water on it, and is reported to cover
an area of about 2,500 square yards; it lies off the entrance at 6^ miles
S.W. by W. from the South extreme of South Dundas Island, and W. by N.,
5 miles from the outer Osborne Island. North Breaker is the N.W. known
danger extending from the Tree-nob Group, and lies W.N.W. 1 mile from
the outer Osborne Island.
Hanmer Bock is awash at high water, with several patches, which uncover,
extending three-quarters of a mile W.N.W. It lies nearly in mid-chanuel,
N. by £. 2^ miles from the outer Osborne Island, S. by W. 2^ miles from
Cape Islet, and £. by N. 5^ miles from Stenhouse Shoal. Lucy Island bearing
E.N.E. leads South of it, and bearing £. } N., North of it.
Simpton Rock lies on the North side of Brown Passage S. by W., three-
quarters of a mile from Cape Islet ; it is 6 ft. high, with rooks awash ex-
tending half a mile westward, and a patch which uncovers 3 ft. at 3 cables
S.E. of it. Beaver Bock, with 12 ft. water on it, lies S.S.E. 1^ mile from
the S.E. extreme of South Dundas Island. Several patches of rock lie between
it and the shore.
Qlawdzeet Anchorage lies on the N.W. side of Stephens Island, and here
Vancouver stayed in company with three ships in search of furs, &c., under
the command of Mr. Brown. Its entrance is three-quarters of a mile wide, and
thence it extends 1 mile in a southerly direction. Entrance Bee/, awash at high
water, lies 2 cables N.W. of the eastern entrance point. The North end of
Tugwell Island in line, astern, with the eastern Lucy Island N.E. by N. ^ N.,
will lead to the entrance, when keep in mid-channel, and anchor 3 cables
within the bay and Iji oable off the South shore, in 13 to 14 fathoms, mud,
CHATHAM SOUND— DUNDAS ISLANDS.
m
It is high water, on full and change, at 1^ 30"; tprings rise 17 to 22 ft.,
neaps 14 to 17 feet
DUNDAS ISLANDS, so named hj Vancourer, are three in number, the
northernmost being the largest and highest. Their western shores have not
been thoroughly examined.
South Dundai hland is about 3 miles long N.W. and S.E., and 5 miles
broad. The shores are comparatively low, and wooded, but near the middle a
mountain range rises to the height of 1,400 ft., with four conspicuous peaks
which lie in a N.E. and S.W. direction. Middle Dundat Island lies about
2 miles north-westward, the passage between being obstructed by numerous
islets and rocks. It is nearly 5 miles long N.W. and S.E., and in general is
low and wooded, but near the southern end the land suddenly rises in an oval-
shaped hill, Coast Mound, 7<50 ft. high, a useful landmark. Connel Islands
are a group of small wooded islands off the western side of Middle Dundas
Island. The outer island lies about 2 miles from the shore.
North Dundas Island is about 12 miles long North and South, and about
7 miles broad near its North end. At 4 miles from its South end is T/tumb
Peak, 2,500 ft. high. Near the North end is Table Hill, 700 ft. high, with a
flat top, and a knob near its North end, a most conspicuous and useful mark.
Zayas Island, the largest of the islands off the western shore of North
Dundas Island, appeared to be about 4 miles long North and South, is wooded,
and about 260 ft. high. A ledge of rocks was observed to extend nearly a
mile from the N.W. extreme, and from the West side rocks are said to extend
3 miles. There is a good channel between Dundas and Zayas Islands, fre-
quently used by steamers.
Channel Islands, about 100 ft. high, extend across the channel between
Middle and North Dundas Islands, rendering that channel useless for any but
the smallest class of sailing vessels. Moffat Islands, lying close to the eastern
shore of Dundas Islands, extend over a distance of 6 miles N.W. and S.E.,
the highest being about 250 ft. in height. They show out well, being clothed
with a peculiar deep green pine tree.
Dude hland, a small wooded islet, 350 ft. high, lies 1 mile N.W. of the
Moffat Group ; two conspicuous white rocks, 30 ft. high, lie 3 cables west-
ward of it. Whitesand Islet, about 10 ft. high, lies 6 cables N.E. by E. from
Ducie Island ; a ledge of rocks, which uncover, extends 4 cables N.W. and
S.E. ofit.
Hammond Rock, with 9 ft. water over it, lies 9 cables E.N.E. from the S.E.
extreme of the S.E. Moffat Island. Coghlan Rock, with 3 ft. water, and
6 and 7 fathoms close around, lies 2 miles N.W. of Hammond Rock. Brodie
Rock, 3J miles N.W. of Coghlan Bock, is a dangerous pinnacle with only 3 ft.
over it at low water. Rachel Islands open northward of the Lucy Group,
bearing S.E. ^ S., will lead northward of the above-mentioned dangers ; but in
fiOO
BRITISH COLUMBIA.
II I
i l:
I'
!!
'ii
thick weather, the western shore of Chatham Sound must not be approached
under the depth of 40 fathoms.
Pointers Rooks lie at the North end of Chatham Sound, and are a dan-
gerous cluster of bare rocks, 3 ft. above high water, about 2 cables in extent
North and South. The southernmost and highest rock lies N.N.W., 3 miles
from the North extreme of Finlayson Island ; and W.S.W., 2^ miles from the
North extreme of Birnie Island.
Gonnis Bocks lie nearly in the middle of Chatham Sound, abreast Port
Simpson. The southernmost and highest rock is 15 ft. high, and from it rocks
extend 2 cables in a northerly direction. It lies W.S.W. 5^ miles from the
North extreme of Finlayson Island, and S.W. by S. 3f miles from Pointers
Uocks. Vancouver remarks : — " These in the daytime and clear weather are
easily avoided ; but in dark nights, or foggy weather, they must render the
navigation of the sound very da-jerous."
Oreen Islet, 3 miles S.W. by W. of Connis Rocks, and about 1^ mile off
the East side of North Dundas Island, is 40 ft. high, and has a small rock
lying close northward, and another close southward of it. Grey Islet, 30 ft.
high, lies 9 cables North of Green Islet; a rock with 6 ft. over it lies
1 mile W.N.W. of it, and another of 4 ft. at 3 cables S> uth of it.
Main Passage, between Pointers and Connis Kocks, is 3^ miles wide.
Oriflamme Passage, between Connis Rocks and Green and Grey Islets, is
3 miles wide. The passage between Dundas Island and Green and Grey
Islets, is nearly 1^ mile wide, but the tides in it ore strong ; and the channel is
not recommended to a stranger.
Onarled Islands, about 1 mile in extent East and West, lie off the N.W.
side of North Dundas Island; they are from 150 to 250 ft. in height, the
eastern islet lying W. ^ N. 2J miles from the N.E. extreme of the Dundas
Group, but the channel between is stated to be obstructed by ledges and
sunken rocks. White Rocks, about 30 ft. high, lie half a mile from the N.W.
extreme of North Dundas Island.
DIXON ENTRANCE is the channel passing northward of Dundas Islands,
and between Prince of Wales and Queen Charlotte Islands. Several sunken
dangers are reported to lie on or near a line joining the North end of the
Dundas Group and the South end of the Prince of Wales Group.
Cape Fox, so named by Vancouver, is about 8 miles northward of the
Gnarled Island Group, and terminates in remarkable high, white cliffs ; with a
conspicuous saddle-shaped mountain, 1,800 ft. high, immediately over it.
Lord Islands, about a mile extent, 3 miles S.E. of Cape Fox, are wooded,
and about 250 ft. high. A ledge, which uncovers 3 ft. at low water, lies
8 cables S.W. by S. from the S.W. island.
Tongas Island lies about 3 miles eastward of Cape Fox ; NaJiat Inlet, the
channel between, was not examined, but it extends in a northerly direction,
terminating in a stream in about lat. 54° 56' N., long. 1 30° 40' W. There is
ill
\
DIXON ENTRANCE— PORTLAND INLET.
661
a military poat of the United States here, but the approaches to the settlement
are intricate and require local knowledge ; the anchorage abreast the fort is
bad, with deep water and limited accommodation even for a vessel of moderate
length.
Boston Islands, lying off Wales Island, at the S.E. approach to Tongas, are
about a mile in extent East and West. The larger islands are woodc 1, the
western island being 450 ft. high, and conspicuous. A ledge, which uncovers,
lies 1 mile E. by S. from Boston Islands, and 1 mile off Wales Island.
Wales Island, on the N.W. side of the entrance to Portland Inlet, is about
7 miles long East and West. The N.E. shore is bold, with some conspicuous
reddish-brown cliffs nearly midway between the North and South extremes.
On the South side, about 1 mile westward of Wales Point, a deep bay faces
south-eastward, having some rooks within it, and a wooded islet at the
mouth, 1^ mile 8.W. ^ W. from Wales Point, having a smaller one 1 mile
south-westward of it. Entry Peak, about half a mile N.W. of Wales Point, is
1,400 ft. high, with a sharp conspicuous summit ; and near the middle of Wales
Island is a mountain, with a flat summit, 1,100 ft. high.
Tides. — The tides in Dixon Entrance and Brown Passage, especially in
their western parts, are variable and complicated. The flood stream approaching
from the southward is met by the stream passing northward of Queen Char-
lotte Islands, at about midway between the N.E. extreme of the latter and
the Tree-nob Group. Northward of that position this meeting of the streams
produces tidal irregularities, and at spring tides, or during bad weather, the
turmoil caused by the meeting of the streams is very great. In Chatham
Sound the tides set fairly through.
A strong current sets out of Portland Inlet and Wark Channel into
Chatham Sound, end sweeps past the Pointers, and then flows out through
Dixon Entrance. The current is about 2^ miles per hour. — Captain J. C,
Brundige.
PORTLAND INLET extends N. by E. i E. from the N.E. part of
Chatham Sound for 10 miles, thence N. by iil. for 10 miles, where it divides.
Observatory Inlet co.^i,inuing northward, and Portland Canal taking a N.W.
and northerly direction. It is from 2^ to 4 miles wide, and the shores are
high and bold, especially the eastern. Needle Peak, on the S.E. side of
Nasoga Gulf, is a sharp snow-dad pinnacle, 5,000 ft. high. The entrance,
between Wales and Maskelyne Points, is about 3 miles wide.
Point Wales is situated opposite the entrance of Wark Inlet, and would
appear, from the chart, to be only about 3^ miles distant, while in reality it is
little, if anything, short of 8 miles distant. — Mr. H. J. Cambie (Engineer in
charge of Bailway Surveys in 1879).
Compton island, on the East side of Work Channel entrance, is 2 miles long,
terminating in a long, low point, at its northern extreme. Emma Passage,
North Pacific. 4 c
m
'I
3
'!
I
562
BRITISH COLUMBIA.
eastward of it, u 5 cables wide, and runs E.S.E. for 3 miles to Union Bay, and
thence N.N.E. 3 miles, terminating in a sandy bay. Union Bay affords
anchorage for small vessels in 20 fathoms.
Somerville Island, 2,000 ft. high, on the eastern side of the inlet, is 8(
miles long N. by E. and S. by W., and 3 miles broad. The shores are wooded
and bold. Elliott Point, its South extreme, lies N. by E. 4 miles from
Maskelyne Point. Truro Island, 2 cables off the S.W. side of Somerville
Island, is about H mile long, wooded, with bold shores, and rising to two hills
800 ft. high. Vancouver found anchorage off a small bay on its West side in
35 fathoms, soft bottom. Nob Islet, 30 ft. high, lies close to the shore at
8 cables from the North end of Truro Island. There is a remarkable white
cliff just southward of it. Start Point, the North extreme of Somerville
Island, is high and bold, with a deep bay close eastward of it.
Steamer Passage, eastward of Somerville Island, is about 5 cables wide,
with deep water. Khutzeymateen Inlet, 5 miles within the entrance, was
not examined. Quinamass Bay, on the eastern side of the North end of the
passage, is nearly filled up with a sand-flat, rendering the bay useless as an
anchorage.
Naioga Qulf, eastward of My lor Peninsula, extends in a north-easterly
direction for 5 miles, and is 1 mile wide. Anchorage will be found 2 cables
from the head, in 10 to 12 fathoms, sand, in mid-channel. My lor Peninsula
is 9^ miles long N. by E. and S. by W., with an average breadth of 2 miles.
Tre/usii Point, the South extreme, terminates in high white cliffs, and
3 cables off it is the bare Banger Islet. The North extreme terminates in
Low Point, low and wooded, the southern entrance point of Nass Bay.
Pearie Island, forms the western side of Portland Inlet. York Islet, 5
cables N.E. of the North extreme of Wales Island (p. 561), on the West side
of Portland Inlet, is wooded, and 100 ft. high. Abreast it an intricate channel
leads westward to Tongas Passage. Cliff Point, lies N. J E., 7 miles from
Wales Point, and about 3^ miles from York Islet, terminating in high cliffs,
with a narrow creek southward of it. Lizard Point, 3 miles N.N.E. of Cliff
Point, has sandy bays close North and South of it, and when seen from the
westward, makes as an island. At 2} miles northward of Lizard Point are
some conspicuous red-brown earthy cliffs. Portland Point, about 18 miles
within the imet, lies 8^ miles North of Lizard Point ; it forms the turning
point into Portland Canal, and is high and bold.
Bamsden Point, which divides Observatory Inlet from Portland Canal, lies
2^ miles N.N.E. of Portland Point, and has a dangerous cluster of rocks,
awash and sunken, extending 4 cables S.E. of it. At half a mile eastward of
Low Point, is Landslip Mountain, 2,040 ft. high, v
C70
QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS.
n
I
reduced in numbera by disease, tbe population being estimated at between
1,700 and 2,000 in 1878. The possession of slaves is allowed, and there are
several of '^h.is unfortunate class amongst them; their owners are not held
responsible for their manner of treating them, which is stated to be frequently
very cruel.
The whole of the islands are portioned off amongst the different tribes and
families, and as they have very strict notions of the rights of property, the
acquisition of land is very difHcult for settlers. The permanent villages are
generally situated with regard to easy access to the fisheries, and the houses
have curiously carved wooden pillars in front of them. Fish forms the chief
article uf food, the seas here swarming with various sorts, as halibut, salmon,
herrings, pollock, cod, &c. From April to October the shell-fish are reputed
by the natives to be poisonous. At Skidegatc there is a factory for extracting
oil from the livers of a species of dog-fish. Immense flocks uf wild geese and
ducks at times visit the islands. Potatoes grow in abundance in most parts,
and thrive exceedingly well, forming an important article of food among the
natives. These are all to be bought either for money, strong cotton shirts,
cotton dresses, plain cotton, knives, tobacco, mother of pearl jacket-buttons
for ornamenting thcii" blankets, or any of the articles commonly bartered
among savages. The blanket is the recognized currency among the natives,
the unit of value being one worth a little over li dollar.
Coal is found at Skidcgate Inlet and Massct Harbour, that found at the
former being similar to anthracite, and at the latter it resembles canncl coal.
Copper deposits exist at various places, and have been worked. Gold has
also been found in considerable quantities.
Climate. — Though situated so far North, the climate of the Queen Charlotte
Islands, from their insular position, is much milder than that of the mainland.
Some men who wintered upon them described the temperature as being
moderate, little snow, and a great deal of rain. Indeed, all North of Fraser
llivcr the climate is very moist. At Sitka it rains almost continuously, the
average rainfall amounting to nearly 89 inches per annum. When I arrived,
on 1st of April, all the snow had vanished off the low lands, and the weather
was mild and pleasant. Mosquitoes were abundant, and towards the end
of the month humming-birds had begim to make their appearance. —
{R. Brown.)
South-east winds are prevalent, and are almost invariably accompanied with
thick rain ; those from the opposite quarter generally bring fine weather.
The heaviest rainfall is, however, local, taking place on the western moun-
tainous axis. It may often be noted that while heavy rain is falling on the
mountains the sky i comparatively clear over the strait to the eastward. The
general remarks on Winds given for the coast to the southward (see pp. 390-2)
apply almost equally well to those of Queen Charlotte Islands), so far as the
\ \
CAi'E ST. JAMES.
571
observations made in their vicinity show. Strong tidal currents prevail in the
waters surmundiug the islands. — Mr, G. M. Dawson.
0£N£B<^ REMARKS.— The following sailing directions for the Queen
Charlotte Islands commence at Cape St. James, their southern extreme, and
from thence proceed along their eastern side, named Hecate Strait ; round
Rose Spit, their north-eastern point ; along the northern shore through I>ixon
Entrance or Parry Chaunel ; and back to Cape St. James, by the Pacific or
western side.
The Queen Charlotte Islands consist of three principal islani.^, together
with several smaller ones, and are situated between lat. 51° 50' and 54° 15' N.,
and long. 130° 55' and 133° 10' W. The channels separating the |) -incipal
islands are, Houston Stewart Channel, running between Prevost T;jl(ind (the
southernmost), and Moresby Island to the northward of it; ani Skidegate
Channel which separates Moresby Island from Graham Island (the northern-
most).
The islands may be regarded as a partly subrn^rgod mountain range, being
a continuation northward of that of Vancouver Island. A line drawn from
their southern extremity to their N.W. point has a bearing of N.W. J W.,
and this may be taken as the direction of the mountain axis. The extreme
length from point to point is 136 miles; ihe greatest width 52 miles. The
highest and most rugged part of the mountain axis is in lat. 52'^ 30', where
many peaks bear considerable patches of perennial snow, and rise to altitudes
probably surpassing 5,000 ft. — Mr. G. M. Dawson.
■ Between the South extremity and Skidegate Inlet, the East coast is much
indented by inlets, generally having bold rocky shores, and forming numerous
islnnds. The West coast, which is much more precipitous and rugged than
the eastern shore, has not yet been much examined.
CAPE ST. JAMES was so named by Mr. Dixon from the common circum-
stance of the saint's day on which it was first seen, 1787. It is the southern
extremity of an island about a mile in diameter, and 1,000 ft. high, ito southern
port being a white clifi", about 180 ft. high. In approaching Cupe St.
James from the southward, the first laud that will be seen (if it is clear) is
the highest port of Prevost Island, about 2,000 ft., at the back of Cape
St. James.
A chain of rocky islets and rocks, with vertical sides, named Kerouart Islets
by La Perouse, extend 3J miles south-eastward of the cape, and as it is
reported that a sunken ledge extinds nearly 5 miles off it, precaution is
necessary in approaching this part of the coast. Mr. Gray, in the Columbia,
informed Vancouver that he had struck and received some material damago
upon a sunken rock, which he represented as lying ai a much greater distance
than the above, though nearly in the same line of direction. With Cape St.
James bearing W. by S. J S. about 3 J miles, and the outermost rock above
water S.W. ^ S., Mr. Inskip had 90 fiuhoms. As seen from the N.E. thcso
E,(.VVJ
> /!,
I
ii f
i
i I
572
QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISL,\NDS.
islets appear to form three groups, those lying close to the cape being about
180 ft. high, and the outer ones about 100 ft. high.
FEEVOST IST.ANB is about 12 miles long North and South, its eastern
and western coasts being bold. Between Cape St. James and East Point, a
well-defined headland 12 miles northward, the East coast is indented by
two bays or inlets, the southern apparently inconsiderable ; Luxana Bay, the
northern one, is probably 3 or 4 miles in depth. After rounding East Point
the eastern entrance to Houston Stewart Channel will open out, the coast
between this point and Moore Head, on the South side of the entrance, a
distance of 6 or 7 miles to N.W., being much broken, with several small islets
lying off it, and one round thickly- wooded and conspicuous island, 150 ft. high,
a good guide for the entrance of the channel.
HOUSTON STEWABT CHANNEL trends 2^ miles from Moore Feint to
Hornby Point, and thence 3 miles S.W. to its western entrance. At about 4
miles from the eastern entrance there is a depth of 90 fathoms, and the water
gradually shoals to 20 fathoms to within a mile of it ; thence the soundings
are very irregular, varying from 31) to 7 fathoms. In the entrance, which is
about a mile wide, there is 20 fathoms water. A strong tide iiins through the
channel.
The country around this locality is mountainous and thickly wooded ; but
the timber is smaller, and less valuable than that in the magnificent forests of
Vancouver Island. The soil is poor, but there are indications of copper in
different places. The sea otter, the fur of which fetches very high prices in
China, are (or were) numerous.
Within the northern point {Forsyth Point), and on the saire side, is a snug
bay, bordered by a sandy beach, at one-third of a mile off which there is
secure anchorage in 16 fathoms. At a quarter of a mile 'aside Forsyth Point,
and a little to the northward of the line of direction of the channel, is a rocky
patch with kelp, dry at low water springs ; a vessel therefore should not haul
to the northward too soon after entering. On the southern side are some
small wooded islands, here and there fringed with o\ dying pat'jhes of kelp,
which latter should always be avoided. At IJ mile W.S.V/. from Forsyth
Point is Trevan Rock, lying nearly mid-channel, contracting the passage on
its northern side to rather less than half a mile. Eastward of Mien Island,
the largest of the islands, there is good anchorage in H fathoms, mud.
The southern arm of this channel is about 3 miles long, and three-quarters
of a mile wide, with several small islands (the Shangoi) at its southern end or
entrance from the Pacific. A vessel coming from the southward, and wishing
to go in by this entrance, when abreast of Cape St. James, should close the
land to 1^ mile, and follow it along for about 12 miles, which will lead right
into it. Two white stripes down the mountains, 6 or 7 miles to the N.W.,
form excellent landmarks. By leaving Anthony Island, the largest and outer
Shangoi Island, on the port hand, the channel will show itself. Flat liuik.
iing about
its eastern
/ Point, a
dented by
Say, the
last Point
the coast
ntrance, a
imall islets
iO ft. high.
Point to
U about 4
the water
soundings
I, which is
rough the
oded; but
forests of
copper in
prices in
> is a snug
li there is
pth Point,
is a rocky
1 not haul
are some
of kelp,
I Forsyth
issage on
'n Island,
I.
-quarters
rn end or
'■ wishing
jlose the
ad right
e N.W.,
ud outer
(ti liovk.
HOUSTON STEWART CHANNEL— SKINCUTTLK INLET. 573
50 ft. high, which should be kept on the port hand, will form a good guide.
Anthony Island is 200 ft. high, with white cliffs, and off its southern end an
extensive ledge of rooks projects to the S.W. On the inner side of the island
is Ninttintt, an Indian village ; the natives are stated to be very wild.
Lotucoone, on the North side of the channel, just within Anthony Island, is
■aid to be a good harbour.
Bose Harbour, the northern arm of Houston Stewart Channel, is seciu-e
and capacious, running up in a northerly direction for 3 miles from its junction
with the channel, and is a continuation, in nearly a straight line with the
western portion of it. It is about three-quarters of a mile wide, and anchorage
will be found in 6 to 15 fathoms, but there is kelp and shoal water along its
eastern shore. The basin at its head is full of islets and rocks, and should not
be entered ; a sti-eam, named Sedmond River, enters the western side of this
basin, and the eastern side is only separated from Carpenter Bay by a narrow
isthmus.
About 3 miles to the northward of the eastern entrance to Houston Stewart
Channel, and at about 2 miles off the coast, are Danger Rocks, a ledge of rooks
lying a little above water ; the sea breaks violently over them, and for a con-
siderable distance around.
MORESBT ISLAND, the centre of the three principal islands, is 72 miles
long, but in places is only from 1^ to 2 miles in breadth. Near its centre aro
the San Cristoval Mountains, upwards of 5,000 ft. in height.
CABFENTEB BAT, at the S.E. end of Moresby Island, is a little over
2 miles wide, and runs westward about 5 miles, ending in a narrow arm,
which receive*! two streams ; this arm is filled with islets and rocks, making it
unsafe even for small craft. The coast is like that of Houston Stewart
Channel. In June, 1878, there were many seals in the bay. On its South
side are two small bays, the western of which. South Cove, has in its head
good anchorage for a small vessel in 6 to 10 fathoms. It is sheltered by a
little rorky reef which runs out from its East side.
Rankine Islands lie 1^ to 2 miles N.E. of Iron Point, the North point of
Carpenter Bay. Collison Bay, situated midway between the latter and
Skincuttle Inlet, is about If mile wide at its entrance, and has a probable
depth of 2 miles, running up into a narrow arm, which was not examined.
Several islet and rocks lie in its mouth, and it does not appear to be serviceable
as a harbour. Oull Rock, 10 ft. high, bears N.E. by E. i E., IJ mile from
iJi-luge Point, and about the same distance from the North point of Collison
Bay. Inner Low Rock lies S.S.E. from Gull Rock, and midway between it
and the shore.
SKINCUTTLE INLET is 5J miles deep in a S.W. direction, its entrance
being 4 miles wide, between Deluye Point on the South and Granite Point on
the North. The North side of the inlet is formed by Burnaby Island, and its
shores resemble those of other parts of the isluud» already described. The
i t ■
I' \i
%*y'
674
QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS.
' t
il
entrance is South of a chain of islands, called the Copper Islandu, lying
N.E. i E. and S.W. ^ W., on \rhich is a deposit of magnetic iron ore, with a
little copper pyrites. It is 1^ mile wide, bat should be used with caution as
there is reason to believe that a rock, sometimes bare, lies in it. The passage
to the North of Copper Islands is contracted. Bolkut Islands form a chain
about 2 miles long East and West, in the centre of the inlet.
Harriet Harbour, the first opening on the South side of the inlet, is 2 miles
westward of Deluge Point, m
Wt\^-.£Ji
I
^;^iJ^!
676
QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS.
length East and West, and is separated from Moresby Island by Darwin
Sound. It is densely wooded and hilly, attaining towards the centre a height
probably exceeding 1,000 ft. A-tli Inlet, on the North side, has not been
examined, but does not appear to be a good harbour. About 3 to 4 miles
E.N.E. from the N.E. point of Lyell Island is Halibut Bank, with 23 fathoms
on it, brown sand bottom.
Darwin Sound is 12 miles in length N.W. by W. and S.E. by E. ; it is
irregular in width, but is a fine navigable channel. In entering from the
southward. Shuttle Island, low and rocky, should be left on the port hand.
A mile beyond the North end of Shuttle Island, and in mid-channel, is a low
rock, with another, bare only at low water, a short distance to the North of it.
The flood tide sets up the sound from the southward, the tidal streams running
at the rate of about 2 knots when strongest.
The S.W. side of Darwin Sound for 4 miles from the South entrance is
rocky and broken, with several coves and inlets. Bigsby Inlet then runs in
2^ miles in a westerly direction, a gloomy chasm, scarcely half a mile in width,
and surrounded by mountains, probably as high as any in the islapds, rising
steeply from the water. At 1^ mile northward of Shuttle Island is Echo
Harbour. The entrance looks like a shallow cove, into which Mr. Dawson
entered to look for anchorage, and was surprised to find the passage into the
harbour, running southward about a mile, and surrounded by high hills, which
towards its head rise to rugged mountains. The entrance has a depth of
10 fathoms in it ; the sides then approach, leaving a channel scarcely 300
yards wide. In the harbour the depth is everywhere about 15 fathoms,
decreasing toward the flat at the head. The bottom is soft mud, and excellent
holding ground.
At 2 miles West of the entrance to Echo Harbour, the shore line falls back
forming Klun-Kwoi Bay, which runs up in several arms, its head approaching
Tasoo Harbour to within a couple of miles. The mountains appear to culmi-
nate here, the highest peaks being probably 5,000 ft. or raoro in altitude.
Crescent Inlet extends N.W. from the head of Darwin Sound, and then turns
gradually to a direction nearly S.W., and is over 4 miles in length, with steep
mountains and wooded sides. Red Top Mountain, about 3,000 ft. high, is a
conspicuous peak, rising on the North side of the inlet, at the angle of the
bend.
J \SK£EX BAY is the wide indentation between the N.E. extreme of
I A '.-J Iskad and Vertical Point, the S.E. point of Louise Island, 10 miles to
t!i '■ ^T W. From Laskeek Bay four large inlets run westward. Richardson
Inlni, the southernmost, is about 11 miles in length W.S.W. and E.N.E.,
with an average breadth of 1^ mile, its shores being moderately bold. The
southern side is formed by Lyell Island; the northern by Kun-ga, Tan-oo, and
Inner Islands. Kun-ga Island, about 1,500 ft. high, forms a good mark for
the entrance ; a low rocky reef extends some distance eastward of its outer
LASKEEK BAY— LOUISE ISLAND.
677
point, and another off its South shore. Tan-oo and Inner Islands are also
bold, rising to rounded hills of about 800 ft. Near Dog Island, 5 miles within
the entrance, are several small islets and rocks ; and at about 3^ miles
8.W. by W. of it, on the South side of the inlet, is a cove, where a small
vessel can find a convenient anchorage. The channels between Kun-ga and
Tan-oo and the latter and Inner Islands are probably deep ; several rocks and
patches of kelp lie off the East end of Tan-oo. The tide runs through this
passage with considerable strength, and it is unsuited as an approach to Echo
Harbour.
Laskeek or Klue village, on the eastern extremity of Tan-oo Island, is one of
the most populous in the islands. H.M.S. Alert anchored off here in 11
fathoms, about 2 cables East of the village, but this anchorage is not a
good one, being exposed to the N.W. and S.E. winds, and steep dose-to. The
S.W. end of Richardson Inlet is only about a quarter of a mile wide, and ob-
structed by a small island and several rocks.
Logan Inlet is about 7 miles in length, and nearly parallel to Richardson
Inlet, with Floiver Pot Islet, covered with trees, in its mouth. It constitutes
a fine navigable channel, the best approach to Echo Harbour. Vessels should
pass North of Flower Pot Island, and keep in mid-channel. Ti-tul Islet,
northward of Kun-ga Island, has low limestone cliffs.
Dana Inlet, northward of Logan Inlet, runs about S.W. by W. nearly
8 miles, with bold shores. In its mouth is Helmet Islet, high and rocky, with
another close southward o^ it; this must not be mistaken for Flower Pot
Island, in the mouth of Logan Inlet. At its western end Dana Inlet turns to
W.N.W., communicating by a narrow but apparently deep passage with
Selwyn Inlet, and thus insulating Tal-un-kwan Island. This island is 8 miles
long, and 2 miles broad ; the hills are rounded, and from 800 to 900 ft. high.
Selivyn Inlet is nearly parallel to Dana Inlet, and about 10 miles in length;
near its head it turns to N.W. by N., forming at high water a nari'ow
passage for canoes into the upper par: of Cumshewa Inlet, and insulating
Louise Island. Entrance Islet lies off the North entrance point of the inlet,
with a low rock about a mile eastward of it. After giving these islets a wide
berth, a vesrel should keep the North shore on board for a distance of 5 miles,
until the entrance of Eock-fish Harbour is reached. Rock-Jish Harbour is
formed by a boot-shaped projection of low land, at the angle of Selwyn Inlet.
It runs to W.S.W. for about IJ mile, with a width of half a mile, and an
average depth of 15 fathoms. It is a secure and well-sheltered anchorage,
more easily entered than Cumshewa Harbour.
Reef Island and Low Islands lie in the outer part of Laskeek Bay, their
position on the chart being uncertain. The southern and first-numed is steep,
and a reef runs off about half a mile southward of it.
Louise Island, separating Selwyn Inlet from Cumshewa Harbour, is about
North Pacific, 4 a
II,
111
678
QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS.
15 miles long East and West, and 8 miles broad. The mountains are from 3,000
to 4,500 ft. high, with snow in abundance. From Selwyn Inlet the East coast
runs N. by E. 8 miles, to Cumshewa Inlet, with several small open bays.
Vertical Point projects about halfway along this stretch of shore, and is
remarkable from the beds of grey limestone of which it is composed. North
of it are the two Limestone Islets, behind which the ebb tide forms a race.
Skedans Bay, northward of these islets, is strewn with sunken rocks, and
should on no account be entered by vessels. A large stream enters its head,
at some distance inland forming a high waterfall. Skedans village is at the
bead of a cove indenting the South side of a narrow isthmus, connecting two
remarkable nipple-shaped hills with the shore. Between this peninsula and
the Skedans Islands, the tide forms a race. These islands are low and
covered with trees ; their position on the chart is only approximate.
CUMSHEWA INLET runs about 15 miles to W.S.W., and differs, in the
low character of its northern shore, from the inlets to the South. There is
also more beach than in the southern inlets, and wide tide-flats. In the
entrance northward of Skedans Islands the depth is about 20 fathoms, shell
and gravel bottom. Off the North point of the entrance is Cumshewa Islet, a
barren rock, whence the Cumshewa Hocks excjnd nearly 1^ mile to E.S.E.
Kin-gut Island, just within this point, was covered with dead trees, and can
be recognised easily.
At about a mile within the entrance, an extensiTe breakiiig shoal runs off
from the South shore to within about half a mile of the North shore ; the
passage in is through this channel, in which the depth is reported to be
7 and 8 fathoms, the tides running strongly through it. A few patches of the
shoal dry at low water, but the greater part is indicated only by the kelp,
which grows thickly on it during the summer.
Within the narrows, on the North shore, is McKay Cove, where a small
vessel may find 8 pretty secure anchorage. Cumshewa village lies about a
mile westward of McKay Cove ; a small rocky islet lies off it. The best
anchorage for a large vessel in Cumshewa Inlet is probably on the South side,
in about 6 fathoms, nearly opposite the peninsula westward of the village, and
abreast a stretch of low land at the entrance of a stream.
From Cumshewa Islet, the coast runs W.N.W. to Spit Point, the South
point of Skidegate Inlet, a distance of 17 mile3, and is indented by Gray and
Copper Bays. At Copper Bay, about 5 miles from Spit Point, is an abandoned
copper mine. The land is low, rising to a height of about 200 ft., and is
densely wooded. The projecting points are generally low and flat, and formed
of gravel deposits. With the change in the character of the land, the beach
becomes flat, and shoal water extends far off shore, the depths shoaling from
10 fathoms, at 3 miles off Cumshewa islet, to 6 and 7 fathoms at 7 miles off
Spit Point. Lieut. Boxer, H.M.S. Alert, says that Cape Chroustcheff, 2 miles
8KIDEGATE INLET AND CHANNEL.
679
southward of Spit Point, should not be passed nearer than 6 miles ; the oape
is low and dark-looking.
SKIDEOATE INLET and CHANlTBL separate Moresby Island from
Graham Island. The inlet or entrance to the channel was surveyed by Lieut.
Daniel Pender, R.N., in 1866. The harbour is very spacious, and communi-
cates with the Pacific southward of Cartwright Sound, near Point Buck, by
an intricate channel, only navigable for canoes a portion of the way through.
Skidegate Inlet runs in a southerly direction for about 9 miles from Bar
Rocks, and then contracts to a width of 1}^ mile between Image Point and the
South shore. Within this it opens widely, forming two expansions, separated
by Maude Island, the northern arm containing many islands and islets, of
which Lina Island is the largest. North-eastward of Lina Island is Bearskin
Bay, on the N.E. side of which there is anchorage in 12 fathoms, and from
thence the inlet trends 5 miles to the S.W., and then turns to W.N.W.,
forming Long Arm, the total length of the inlet from Bar Rocks to the head
of Long Arm being about 21 miles. The southern arm forms South Bay, in
which is South Island, its western side passing into Skidegate Channel and
thence to the Pacific.
The shores of Skidegate Inlet are not so bold as those of the inlets to the
South, and are generally fringed with a beach. Westward of Image Point
the land increases in height, culminating at Long Arm, where there are
several summits, 3,000 to 4,000 ft. high. The surrounding country is densely
wooded, and timber of magnificent growth is found, chiefly Menzies spruce,
and apparently well-suited for lumber.
Spit Point is low and woody, and composed of sand deposits, which, ex-
tending northward, form the bar across the entrance. The bar or spit has
from 1 to 3 fathoms water on it, sloping off" very gradually seaward, and
extends in a north-westerly direction for about 9^ miles, to within nearly 1 ^
mile of Lawn Point, the northern point of entrance. Bar Rocks, which do
not always break, lie on the outer edge of the spit ; the western one dries 6 ft.,
and lies N.W. J N., 6J miles from Spit Point ; the outer rock dries 1 foot,
and bears N.E. by E., 4 cables from the inner rock.
Lawn Point is generally green, and a hill 500 ft. high rises close westward
of it. The coast hence to S. by E. is flat for 10 miles to Village Bay, and was
covered with standing dead trees. Dead Tree Point, 3J miles southward of
Lawn Point, is a projecting part of the coast, but otherwise is not con-
spicuous. Village Islands form good marks for Skidegate Inlet ; the northern
one. Bare Islet, 125 ft. high, is almost bare, and the other. Tree Islet, having
trees upon it, is 153 ft. high. The village of Skidegate, nearly half a mile in
length, is situated in the bay fronted by Village Islands. Village Bay is
good stopping-place, with anchorage in 14 fathoms, between Bare Islet and
the beach. Should a S.E. gale spring up, good shelter will be found in
AUiford Bay.
^ 1
4{
%
li
il
1 ■■!
I I
666
aUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS.
In the cove at Image Point, southward of Village Bny, some buildings have
been erected in connection with the dog-fish fishery. In 1883 the Skidegntc
Oil Company extracted 40,000 gallons of oil from the livers of about 400,000
dog-fish, which were caught by the Indians. This oil is stated to be superior
to any other kind as a lubricant, and is chiefly shipped to the United States.
Alliford Bay, on the South side of the entrance, is an excellent anchorage,
with good holding ground, in about 9 fathoms. Leading Island, forming the
western part of the bay, is 400 ft. high and appears round. The passage
between Flowery Islet, the outer islet, and the North point of the bay, should
not be used. Wood and water may be obtained here.
Anchor COYe, 10^ miles south-westward of Image Point, affords anchorage
in 6 fathoms. About a mile northward of the cove is Slate Chuck Brook, the
largest stream in Skidegate Inlet, so named from a quarry a few miles up it ,
from whence the Indians obtain the dark shaly material they use for carvin^^s.
Coal. — About a mile north-eastwurd of Anchor Cove is the now aband >ncd
Cowgitz coal mine,* on the sides of Mount Seymour, the working of which
was undertaken by a company formed in 1865. A tramway was constructed
to the coast, and much money expended, up to the abandonment of the works
in 1872. In 1869 about 800 tons were raised, and part shipped to Victoria.
In appearance the coal resembles anthracite, but the seam is irregular in
quality and thickness. Coal is also found in Saltspring Bay, to the S.E. of
Anchor Cove, and on the South side of Skidegate Passage.
Maude Island is nearly 4 miles long, S.W. and N.E., I^ mile broad, and
1,260 ft. high. On the West end the Indians belonging to Qold Harbour
have established a village.
Skidegate Channel runs from South Bay for 15 miles south-westward to the
Pacific, and about midway North Arm runs 2^ miles northward. From South
Bay to Log Point, a distance of 8} miles, the channel is contracted, particu-
larly in the East and West Narrows, the former in one part being only
200 ft. wide, and the latter 2 cables ; it can only be considered navigable for
boats or canoes. A small vessel might pass through, but the narrows must be
passed at slack water of high tide, so that both narrows cannot be got through
in one tide. The tides meet about the East Narrows, running with great
strength, probably 5 knots in several places. (See pp. 586-7).
Directions. — Approaching Skidegate Inlet the water should not be shoaled
under 6 fathoms at low water until the leading marks are on. A deep channel
into Skidegate Inlet may be found northward of Bar Rock spit, by steering
for Lawn Point bearing S.W. until within about a mile of the point, w>-3n a
general S.S.E. course may be steered, paying great attention to the soundings,
* Thii was fonnd by Capt. Torrens in 1869, but the party were nearly murdered by the
Indians. It was examined by Mr. Brown in 1866, and he says the coal has all the charac-
ter of anthracite, but altered and metamoi]ihoied by the presence of igneoui rock in a !•■
parkttble manneri
GRAHAM ISLAND.
6dl
as tkc northern pnrt of the chnnnol is narrow. Lieut. Miller, ILM.S. Amethytt,
1876, remarks, "From the N.E. Lawn Point makes like a bluff sloping towards
the North. Lorgc ships should bring it to bear S.W. and steer for it ; the water
will gradually shoal from 10 and 12 fathoms at 4 miles off, to 6 and 4^ fathoms
at about a mile from the point, when it suddenly deepens to 12 and 20
fathoms."
The West side of Leading Island, in line with the East side of Bare
Village Island, bearing South, leads northward of Bare Rocks, in 1>5 ft. at
low water. Coasters with local knowledge cross the spit in 3} fathoms, about
a mile South of Bnr Rocks (when they are visible), by keeping Dead Tree
Point bearing W.S.W.
It is high water in Skidegate Inlet, on full and change, at P ; springs rise
17 ft., neaps H feet.
OBAHAM ISLAND, the largest of the Queen Charlotte Islands, is 67
miles long with a maximum width of 52 miles. At its southern end, on the
North side of Skidegate Inlet, the land is very rugged and mountainous, with
many summits exceeding 3,000 and 4,000 ft. Beyond Skidegate the surface
becomes much less mountainous. To the northward lies a low, flat or gently
undulating, densely wooded country, seldom exceeding 300 ft. in elevation.
From Lawn Hill to Rose Point, the N.E. extreme of Graham Island, the
distance is about 48 miles to N. by W. The coast is straight and open, with
no harbour, the beach being gravelly or sandy. Dangerous flats, which have
not been examined, extending off the coast, should be given a berth of 6 or 7
miles, and the lead kept constantly going, the soundings varying from 9 to 11
fathoms.
For many miles northward of Lawn Hill, banks of clay and sand are found
along shore, and for about 17 miles northward of Tl-ell Biver these frequently
rise into cliffs 50 to 100 ft. in height. Northward of the cliffs the shore is
usually bordered by sandhills, covered with coarse grass, &c. This part of
the coast is also characterised by lagoons ; the largest opens at Cape Fifty
about 6 miles southward of Rose Point, and runs southward for some miles.
Its mouth forms a safe harbour for boats at high tide, but it is nearly dry at
low water. On some parts of the shore near Cape Fife magnetic iron sand is
abundant, with numerous " colours " of gold in it. There is anchorage off
the cape with off-shore winds ; but the lead must be most carefully attended.
Tl-ell Biver, a stream of some size, enters the sea at lOJ miles N.N.W. of
Lawn Point. Cape Ball (Kul-tow-sis), nearly 20 miles from Skidegate Bar,
is very conspicuous, having a remarkable white cliff on it, with lower cliffs on
either side ; it cannot be mistaken, for there is no other place like it between
Skidegate and Point Rose. The Indians report that at very low tide patches
of clay appear a long way off the cape. Capt. McNeill, of the Hudson Bay
Company's Service, states that he found a rook with 2 fathoms on it, lying
Rbout e miles East of Cape Ball.
■%i
IMwi
WB^
i-lOwB '
m
T^ln^V
iM.^^llK
''♦■'*^H
iiffi
i
aUEEN CHARLOttE ISLANDS.
B08B POINT, 80 named by DougTu in 1788, or Inviaibli Point, known to
the Indians as Nai-Koan (long nose), is a remarkable low promontory,
apparently formed by the meeting of the currents and wnve«. Where the
point becomes narrow and more exposed, it is clothed with small stunted
woods, which in turn give place to grass-covered sandhills. Beyond this the
narrow gravelly point is covered above high-water mark with heaps of
drifting sand, and great quantities of bleached timber. The npex of the point
is a narrow steep-sided gravelly bank, which runs out for a long distance at
low water. A dangerous spit runs off Rose Point in a N.E. direction, and is
reported to extend for a distance of nearly 5 miles. The point should, there-
fore, at all times be given a wide berth. Several vessels have been lost
here.
The shore between Boso Point and Masset Sound forms a large bay 22 miles
in width. With the exception of a few small rocky points, the sandy beach is
smooth ond regular, low sandhills generally bordering the woods, "^.e water
is shoal far off the shore, especially at the bottom of the bay, and on
approaching Masset Sound, where kelp forms wide fields at a great distance
from the beach. In the N.E. part of the bay there is anchorage with off-
shore winds.
Hi-ellen River, at 8 J miles S. by W. of Rose Point, is frequented by salmon
in the autumn ; its mouth forms a good boat harbour. On its West bank is Tow
Hill, an eminence remarkable in this low ct ^ry, facing the sea with a steep
cliff 200 ft. high. It is uncertain M'hether Tow K. - Voad low elevation a
short distance inland, near Cnpc Fife, is the same as the ^. ' ^'oon or Macroon
Hill of the old chart. Macroon Hill is described as a round-shaped hill,
300 or 400 ft. high, which, with Rose Point bearing W.S.W., distant 6 miles,
opens out clear of the land off which Rose Spit runs, but shows out so dis«
tinctly as to look almost like an island.
MASSET HABBOXTB is about 23 miles S.W. ^ S. from Poiiit F,->8e. lu
entrance is formed by a low point, with a ledge of rocks hali a mile oif it, and
covered with kelp, on the western side; and the point of ». i').ih, {Naiqu$z)
partly dry (the surf usually breaking the whole length of it) ou the eastern,
the passage between having an extensive bar. With the outer western point
bearing W. by N. 1 mile, there is 5 fathoms at low water ; from this position
the 30urse in is about S. by E. ^ E., the soi'ndings over the bar varying from
6 to 3 fathoms, for about 3 miles, to abreast of a village on the western shore,
a little more tlian a mile from what may be termed the inner or proper
entrance to the harbour; the water then suddenly deepens to 9 and 11
fathoms, the ehanne\ lying in the direction of the eastern point of what has
been called the inner entrance. Just inside, and round this point, is a pretty
bay, with a beach containing the principal village, named Ut-te-was, off the
centre of which there is anchorage in 10 fathoms, but the ebb tide runs very
fUoug. la 1878 thfe Hudson Bay Company had a post here, and the ChuroU
MASSET IIARnOUR-TSOO-SKATLI.
fi83
Missionary Society also hnd a itation, but the iDhabitantt are dccrenaing in
number. The company keep some cattle here.
The land in the vicinity of Mussct IIa>-bour is all low, no hills being visible,
and generally densely timbered with fine xpruce trees. At 3 miles up the
sound, a lagoon or arm runs off on the East side, and nearly opposite this, on
the West side, is Maait Island, from which the name of the inlet appears to
have been taken ; it is low und sandy, and a great part of the passage behind
it is dry at low water.
Manet Sound, from its entrance to the point at which it expands to Masset
Inlet, is 19 miles in length; it averages about a mile in width, and the depth
appears to vary from 10 to 12 fathoms. A number of little streams enter it. On
the eastern side, at 4) miles from the southern end of the sound, a narrow and
shallow passage runs off southward to the eastern part of Masset Inlet.
MaiBet Inlet. — At its southern end Masset Sound expands suddenly to a
great sheet of water, 17 miles in length East and West, and 5^ miles across
in its broadest part. This, to the northward and eastward, is bounded by
low wooded land ; and tu the West and South by hills, rising to mountains in
the distance ; even these, however, are comparatively rounded in form, and
probably exceed 1,500 ft. in height. The northern and southern shores are
often bordered by wide shoals ; the western half of the inlet is studded with
islands, and has four large bays or inlets on its southern side. The shores
here are steep, sloping do x at once into deep water. Many streams flow into
these inlets, the largest L ng probably the Ya-koun, which enters the S.E.
comer of Masset Inlet, in the bottom of a shoal bay. This stream formed a
portion of the disused route from Masset to Skidegate. The natives state that
in August the inlet abounds with salmon, halibut, geese, and ducks. Ain River,
on the northern side, is an important stream, said to flow out of a very large
lake, not far inland.
Tsoo-skatli. — On the South side of Masset Inlet, 5 miles from its eastern
extremity, is a narrow passage, the mouth of which is partly blocked by
islands, leading into a second great inlet called by the Indians Tsoo-skatli,
or " the belly of the rapid." Kelp grows abundantly in the channels, which
therefore cannot be very deep ; the tide here runs with great velocity,
especially at ebb, when in the western channel it forms a true rapid. The
inlet has deep water, is 9^ miles in length, and from 1 to 2 miles in width,
with many islands and islets in it. On the eastern side, 2^ miles from its
extremity, is Tow-us-tai-in, a remarkable hill with a steep cliff on one side.
Ma-min River, navigable by small canoes for several miles, joins Tsoo-skatli
Inlet at its East end.
Tides. — The rise of spring tides, at the entrance of Masset Sound, was
estimated at about 14 feet.
Between Masset and Virago Sound, which lies about 10 miles to the west-
ward, there is good anchorage in some places, in which a vessel might remain
i
m
1 ' t
t » >
I I
t :
i
I i
084
QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS.
a night, instead of keeping under way, or cruising about with a S.E. wind,
and the weather thick. Tlie coast between these two places is everywhere
low and wooded, with occasional open grassy spaces. It differs from the
coast East of Masset, in being rocky or covered with boulders. The water is
shoal far offshore, with wide fields of kelp, necessitating caution in approach-
ing the shore.
VIRAGO SOUND, the entrance to Naden Harbour, is 3 J miles wide between
its outer points, Edensatv to the East and Naden to the West; and 2^ miles deep
to the narrow passage, which is 1^ mile long and about half a mile wide,
leading into the harbour. Outside the entrance of this passage are several
banks, formed probably by the sand, &c., washed down with the ebb, which
runs with considerable strength; the rise and fall of the tide is about 13 ft.
The narrowest part of the entrance is about half a wide.
The outer anchorage is sheltered from all winds to the southward of East
and West. With two wooded islets, on the West side of the entrance, bearing
W. i S. distant 1 mile, and the East point N.E. J E. 2 miles, the depth is
fi fathoms, sand and shells. The shores are low and fringed with kelp, but the
lea dwill be a safe guide, as the water shoals gradually towards the land. ITie
depth on the bar varies from 2^ to 4 fathoms. A vessel can always get
an Indian pilot by firing a gun and anchoring for a short time. The inner
anchorage, opposite Kuny village on the western side, just within the narrows
is in 10 fathoms, at about 2 or 3 cables offshore. This village has been nearly
abandoned for the new Ya~tza village on the coast, at about 4 J miles west-
ward of Virago Sound. Above Kung village a bank extends off the eastern
side of the narrows nearly halfway across, leaving a channel along the western
shore, with 7 to 10 fathoms in it.
Naden Harbour, — This capacious and land-locked harbour is about 4 miles
in length North and South, and 2 miles in width, with depths of 8 to 12
fathoms in it. Densely wooded low land borders the whole harbour. The
S.E. shore has wide tide-flats off it ; the N.W. shore is comparatively bold.
Njden River, entering the harbour at its S.E. corner, is probably the largest
river of Queen Charlotte Islands. It flows from a large lake, and at high
water a boat can proceed about 2 miles up. Stanley or Te-ha River, in the
S.W. corner, is reported to be navigable for boats. The spruce timber is
excellent, and the harbour is well adapted for saw mills and the export of
lumber.
From Naden Point, the general trend of the shore is W. by 8. for about 17
miles to Cape Knox, the N.W. extreme of Graham Island. The shore and
country behind it are generallj' low ; some rooks occur at a little distance off
shore, but there is no appearance of a wide shoal-belt like that found East of
Masset. Klai-Kwun Point, 4^ miles W. by N. from Naden Point, is a re-
markable promontory, rising in the centre to a hill about 200 ft. in height,
^-
PARRY PASSAGE— NORTH ISLAND.
585
I
which is visible for a long distance. In a rocky bay, to the East of the point,
is the new Ya-tza village.
About 6 J miles to the S. W. of Klas-Kwun Point is Jul- un River, a stream
of no great size, but its mouth forms an excellent canoe or boat harbour at
high water. At 3 miles further westward is a small piomontory, on the East
side of which is another excellent boat harbour, and to the West of it is a
wide bay, called Pillar Bay, from a very remarkable columnar mass of sand-
stone and conglomerate rock which stands near the eastern side, about 25 ft.
in diameter and 95 ft. high, the summit covered with small bushes. It is
separated at high water from the shore.
Parry Passage, named after the late Sir E. Parry, separates North Island
(which forms the N.W. extremity of the Queen Charlotte Islands) from
Graham Island, and is about 2 miles in length, with an average width of three-
quarters of a mile. Off the point on the South side of the eastern entrance is
a low rock, with a reef covered at high water a little farther out. Lucy
Island, on the North shore of the passage, is separated from North Island by
a narrow passage, the entrance of which, with 8 to 11 fathoms, is between a
reef extending oflF the East end of Lucy Island, and a wide shoal, with kelp,
off the South extremity of North Island. Abreast Tartanne, the Indian
village on the North shore, the depth is 6 fathoms. Ledges of rock run off
the southern side of Parry Channel, but there is a good and clear channel
between them and North Island, through which the tide rushes and forms a
perfect race. On the South side was Chief Edensaw's village, from which he
intended removing to Virago Sound. Just within the eastern entrance of
Parry Channel, and on the South side, is a bay with anchorage in it.
Bruin Bay, on the South side of the passage and abreast Lucy Island, has
anchorage in 12 to 14 fathoms, sand, and may be used as a temporary
stopping-place ; the flood sets into it forming cddicn. The country is low and
wooded. On the South shore, at the West end of the passage, is Chief
Edensaw's village, now deserted.
On the South side of North Island, and westward of Lucy Island, is a snug
cove, called Ilenslung, with high banks and clitfs surrounding it. It is reported
that whalers occasionally anchored in it. At the head of the cove is a stmdy
beach, with a stream of water running down it.
North Island, named by Dixon in 1787, is about 5 miles in length, between
North Point and its southern e.vtreme, and composed of low, densely woodtd
land, no point probably reaching a height of 300 ft. On its ea8t3ru side there
is said to be a good anchorage in a bay which was formerly often used by the
vessels beUmging to the old North West Company.
Cloak Bay, the western entrance to Parry Passage, lies between North
Island and Cape Knox, and is about 2^ miles wide, with a simila;- dopth.
Some rocks, on which the sea breaks only in heavy weather, lie r: ine distance
m
'.y»ii
^'^
' '"''*.'> i*!
m
North I'acijic.
i >••
ii
586
QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS.
\ l]
Hi
off the North Island shore, and there are also a couple of remarkable pointed
islands on this side. Mr. Dawson states that the East side of North Island
affords no good anchorage.
Cape Enoz, the N.W. extreme of Graham Island, is a long narrow tongue
of land, on which are a few low hills. Its South side is bold, and off it lie
several rocks in a westerly direction, the farthest out at a distance of about
3 J miles off the cape, on which the swell seldom ceases to break violently.
On leaving Parry Passage for the westward, get a good ofRng before hauling
to the southward, to clear the rocks off Cape Knox. When well out, the
projecting point of Frederick Island will be seen about 18 miles to the south-
eastward. At 2 or 3 miles to the southward of Parry Passage is an indenta-
tion of the coast, which might be taken as its entrance by a vessel coming
from the southward, — a mistake that might lead to serious consequences, as
the whole coast, as fur as Frederick I.slanJ, appears to contain several open
bays, with outlying breaking rocks off each of them.
HIPPA ISLAND,* 26 miles S.E. i S. of Frederick Island, appears from a
position H mile seawaid of the latter to be high and bold, but from the South
its outer end appears as a low point, and the inner end bold. This portion of
the coast is higher and more broken than the former, the openings appearing
deeper, neither does it seem to have so many rocks lying off it. The Indians
show some good harbours towards llippa. When abreast Hippa Island, Point
Buck, 27 miles distant, and also Cape Henry, 18 miles further on, can be seen,
the coast presenting the same high and broken appearance as the preceding
2G miles. All the points along tliis part much resemble Point Buck, which is
rather low and rugged, jutting out from the high land at the back.
This coast of the island, as has been before mentioned, is very incompletely
knowr • and at 15 or 18 miles eastward of Hippa Island, Vancouver places
I':' enu i'; e of Rennell Sound, so named by Dixon, lat. 53" 23' N. The land
aTipciii- uiuch broken, and the coast composed of steep mountainous prc-
cipi ., divided from each other by water. These gradually increase in height
in coming southward.
Point Back, on the North side of the western entrance of Skidegate
Channel, has a laige higli island, Chalqiie, just to the northward of it, and
another, much smaller and peaked, standing out clear of the land, at about
3 or 4 miles further to the northward, lying in the entrance of Cartwriyht
Sound, which is formed by Point Buck on the South, and Point Hunter or the
North.
SKIDEOATE CHANNEL, separating Graham Island from Moresby Island,
lies in lat. 53° 9'. The eastern entrance has been alluded to on page 580.
* This island was so ntiraud by Dixon, from ita being inhabited by a tribe, who fortified
themselves precisely in the mnnner of a hippa (o-pah) of the Now ^ealanders. It ; : called
QufquHz by the Indians. Mr. Brown believes that native lead is found in the first .:ilut
ubuve Uippa Island, at a place called (Jhatlem,
PORT KUrER-MITCnELL HARBOUR.
687
W~
The western entrance is about 7 or 8 miles eastward of Point Buck, and is a
little over a mile in width. From thence the channel runs in an easterly
direction for 6 or 7 miles to Log Point, affording no sheltered anchorage. At
Log Point the West Narrows commence, and about a mile southward of it a
branch turns off to the southward and westward, entering the Pacific about
3 miles southward of the main channel, thus forming an island 5^ miles lomg,
and 1,000 to 2,000 ft. high. A vessel might find anchorage in the northern
entrance of this passage, but farther in it is blocked by a bank, with not more
than 4 ft. on it at high water.
PORT KUPEB.— About 9 miles O.E. of Skidegate Channel is a large in-
duniatir.n in the coast of Moresby Island, and nearly filled by Kuper or Kennedy
TyJai 'uch has a passage on either side of it, leading to Mitchell or Gold
"^'tO'bo'U,
Insl-ip Channel, which leads round the North side of Kuper Island, was
first used by H.M.S. Virago, in 1853, and is about 8J miles long, by half a
mile wide. A little without it, there are some small islands on either side,
but there can be no difficulty in discovering the passage in. In the channel
there is no bottom at 60 fathoms, but nt the entrance a cast was got with
35 fathoms, on a halibut bank. At a short distance inside the islands, on the
North side of the entrance, is a village belonging to the Kilkite tribe. Fur-
ther in, on the same side, and about 3 J miles up, is a deep opening, and where
this and Moore Channel meet, are two other openings to harbours, with some
small islands lying near them. This channel is no doubt equally as safe as
the other.
Moore Channel, au the South side of Kuper Island, is named after Mr. Geo.
Moore, master !Kagpatched a party in the brig Una, to examine
this placj for fe> i, and llr. Mitchell, who ooii-ssianded tho ahip, coUocttd about 1,000
dollirs worth of gold, but tho Indians stole it as soon^s^it was blasted, so the expeiiilioa
broke up. Again in July, 1869, a party under Mr. Downie^Hsjnpted to flnel gold here,
but decided t' \i further search woa uselosa.— Seo Captain Maynd^ British Columbia,
pp. 186, 187, \
' !•(!.•
n
i
'!■ '
1
ii'i .
1 i|ii
588
QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS.
M
* : 1
mile wide, surrounded by precipitous and densely wooded hills, from 700 to
800 ft. in height, and at its head, in Thetis Cove, is a sandy beach and a
stream of water. At If mile up the harbour is Sansom Island, a small spot
covered with trees, and the ruins of a number of huts. The anchorage lies
inside this, in Thetis Cove, keeping Sansom Island on the port hand; the
])assage being a cable wide, with deep water. This cove is completely land-
locked, but squalls, frequently accompanied by rain, come over the hills with
considerable violence. At upwards of half a mile from the mouth of the
harbou/, on the starboard side going in, is Thorn Rock, with only 3 ft. on it
at low water, lying about a cable's length from the shore ; and on the upposite
side, not quite at so great a distance from the land, but a little further out, is
another rock. These are dangeri r :o vessels working in or out; but if the
wind be fair, and a ship is kept mid i there is nothing to fear.
Douglas Harboiur. — At 1 mile to westward of Mitchell Harbour,
and on the same side of Moore Channel, is the entrance to Douglas Harbour,
apparently very similar to the former, from which it is separated by Josling
Peninsula. A sailing vessel leaving Moore Channel with a S.E. wind should
keep well over towards Hewlett Bay, on the South side of the entrance, to
enable her to fetch clear of Moresby Islands, as the wind will be very unsteady
until well clear of the high land to windward.
TASOU HABBOUB.— Ca/>« Henry, which lies 3 miles S.S.W. of the
entrance to Moore Channel, terminates in a steep slope, with a hummock at
the extremity. At 17 miles to the S.E. by E. of this is the entrance of Tasoo
Harbour, the intermediate coast being high, and rising abruptly from the sea.
Its entrance is short and narrow, but the harbour itself is extensive, with very
deep water in many places. There is anchorage in it, near some small islands
on the port hand going in ; it has only been visited by a few of the Hudson's
Bay Company's officers.
Between Tasoo and Cape St. James, about 60 miles to E.S.E., are other
openings, which, according to Indian report, lead into good harbours, the
southernmost of which is that leading into Houston Stewart Channel and Rose
Harbour. Inside Shangoi Islands, and close to Houston Stewart Channel, \h
an opening, called by the natives Louiscoon, and reported to be a good
harbour, not unlike Rose Harbour. This coast is also apparently very bold,
excepting off the Shangoi Islands, and like the previous 1 7 miles. The land
near Cape St. James has fewer trees on it than that to the northward.
Tides. — llie following brief account of the tides along the North and N.E.
coasts of the islands is given by a Hudson's Bay Company's officer.
'I'he course and strength of the tides are not regular, being greatly in-
fluenced by the winds. At full and change they are very rapid. The time of
high water is about 12'' 30"".
In Hecate Strait the flood tide comes from the southward. In Dixon
Entrance the flood, coming from the westward round North Island, sets along
]
TIDES.
589
the Masset shore across Hecate Strait for Brown Passage, spreading about
15 miles round Point Kose towards Cape Ibbetsou (Edye Passage), where it
meets the flood from the southward, from Skidegate, Banks Island, and
Canal de Principe; consequently between Point Kose, Cape Ball, Cape
Ibbetson, and thence S.E. 12 or 15 miles, the tides are very irregular.
The tides between Cape Murray, Point Percy, and Isle de Zayas are the
strongest and most iiTegular, causing a heavy and confused sea, so much so
that in bad weather it has the appearance of breakers.
In concluding this account of the coast of this distant British colony, it may
be remarked that the wonderful change in its fortunes, and the sudden
acquisition of importance to civilization is almost unparalleled. It is, there-
fore, difficult to keep pace with the progress of a country which, till so recent
a period, was only considered fit to be occupied by the trading posts for the
purchase of furs.
The nautical descriptions are, however, tolerably complete, and this is also
an evidence of the great progress of the times. The southern part of the sin-
gular and rugged coasts of this region were for the most part most excellently
surveyed and described by Capt. Bicburds in the Vancouver Island Pilot ; and
the surveys by Statf-Commander D. Pender, in 1864 — 1870, have added much
to our knowledge of the northern portion. Where these authorities are
wanting the work of Vancouver is our chief guide ; and this work has had but
scant justice awarded to its great merit.* Whether the country will rise to be
the home of a great and populous nation is a question which may fairly be left
to future controversy.
* Besides the excellent narratives of Capt. Mayne and Mr. F. Whymper, which describe
many parts of thii coast, " The North-west Passage by Land," by Lord Milton and Dr.
Cheadle, will, with the others, give a good insight into the early condition of the colonies.
•' Vancouver Island and British Columbia," by the B«y. Matthew Macfle, F.R.Q.S., 1866;
" BritiHh Columbia and Vancouver Island," by Mr. Duncan Q, F. Macdonald, 1862 ;
" V'ncouver Island and British Columbia," by Alexander Rattray, M.D., 1862; "Travels
in British Columbia, &c.," by E. E. Barrett- Lennard, 1862; may be consulted with much
advantage. Mr. Sproat's " Scenes and Studies of Savage Life," are very inters ting. As
be largely employed native labour at his saw-mills at Albcrni, in Barclay Sound, for
many years, he had special opportunities for arriving at some remarkable conc]usion.s.
There are numerous detached accounto, among which the Description of Vancouver Island,
by Capt. W. Colquhoun Grant, F.R.G.S., Journal of the Royal Geographical Society,
1857, vol. xxxvii., pp. 268 — 320, may be specially noticed. Several of the more rooent im-
portant works have beun noticed in various parts of the preceding description.
I
A«;l
( 590 )
'
M i
I
iHI
CHAPTER VIII.
THE COAST OF ALASKA, FROM PORTLAND CANAL TO THE
KODIAK ARCHIPELAGO.
The whole of the north-western Const of America, from the Portland Canal
to the intersection of the 141° meridian with the Arctic Coast, now belongs to
the United States. The length of this coast-line has been estimated at
11,270 miles. From the Portland Canal to Mount St. Elias, the highest peak
on the continent, in lat. 60° 10' N., the boundary between this territory and
Dritish Columbia is fixed at a distance of 30 miles from the coast, and from
Mount St. Elias the division is the mcridiai..4l line carried northward. The
area of this territory on the mainland is estimated by the United States' Coast
Survey officers at 549,500 square statute miles, of the Aleutian Islands in-
cluded in the territory 5,630 square miles, and of the other islands 22,260
square miles, together forming a total of 577,390 square miles.
This extensive but comparatively useless region was purchased of the
Russian Government by the United States, for the sum of 7,200,000 dollars,
in coin, the treaty for the transfer being signed on May 28th, 1867. The sum
of 200,000 dollars was added to the amount, for the purpose of extinguishing
the claims of the Russian- American Fur Company, whose head-quarters were
at Sitka, and of an ice-company, established in Kodiac, who had special
privileges conceded to them.
The Russian-American Company was established under charter from the
Emperor Paul, July 8th, 1799; and the extensive territory in question was
granted to them to occupy and bring under the dominion of Russia. The
Russian Company and the Hudson's Bay Company were thus brought into
collision, and the latter experienced considerable loss in their endeavours to
prevent this extension of Russian power. But in justice to Russia it must be
said that no country had a better claim to the territory ; for as early as 1741,
Yitus Bchring (a Dane in the employment of Russia), and his companion
L'^HfiBSUSS
r
THE COAST OF ALASKA.
591
Tschirikoff, had touched on the continent in the lat. of 59° and 56° respec-
tively; the former seeing much of the intervening countries, too, on his return;
and by 17G3 many other adventurers had penetrated eastward as far as Kodiuk
— and it must be remembered that no other nation claims to have penetrated
further North than lat. 53°. In addition to this, Russia had as gradually
improved her knowledge by possession as these discoveries advanced, and
this, too, not from any jealousy of other powers interfering, as was the case
between Spain, England, and France, to the South. Thus the settlement at
Kodiak was formed four years before our countryman Meares purchased, or
said he did si. nis tract of land in Nootka Sound, and Sitka was founded ten
or twelve years before Astoria was.
Notwithstanding this, the Hudson's Bay Company expended considerable
sums in the establishment of trading posts on the large Iliver Stikine in
lat. 56" 20'. The Russians resented by force this procedure of the company,
although England claimed the privilege of navigating the rivers flowing from
the interior of the continent to the Pacific, across the line of boundary esta-
blished under the treaty of 1825. The British Government required redress
for this infraction of the treaty ; and after negotiation between the two
guvernraents and the two chartered companies, it was agreed, in 1839, that
from the 1st June, 1840, the Hudson's Bay Company should enjoy for ten
years the exclusive use of the continent assigned to Russia by Mr. Canning
in 1825, and extending from 54° 40' N. to Cape Spencer, near 58° N., in
consideration of the annual payment of 2,000 otter skins to the Russian-
American Company. The boundary between the Russian and English pos-
sessions was fixed by the convention agreed to by the respective powers, Feb-
ruary 28th, 1825. The charter of the Russian- American Company, granted
in 1799, was renewed in 1839, when they had thirty-six hunting and fishing
establishments.
Sitka, or New Archangel, founded in 1805, was their chief post. Subordi-
nate to it there was a smaller establishment of a similar kind at Alaska, which
supplied one post in Bristol Bay, and three posts in Cook Inlet, all connected
with minor stations in the interior. Another station in Norton Soand had its
own inland dependencies. The whole of the territory was divided into six
agencies, each controlled by the governor-general. The inhabitants of the
Kurile and Aleutian Islands, and those of the large island of Kodiak, were
regarded as the immediate subjects of the Russian Company, in whose service
every man between 18 and 50 might be required to pass at least three
j'ears. The natives of the country adjacent to Cook Inlet and Prince William
Sound also paid a tax to the company, in furfi and skins. The other
aborigines in the Russian territory were not allowed to trade with any people
but those of the Russian Company.
The political troubles in which Russia was involved some years since, and
the probable unprofitable nature of this, their distant possession, led the way
m*<
I ^
592
THE COAST OF ALASKA.
to the quiet trnnsfcr of this immense region.* Under its new masters some of
its resources will most probably be further developed, but the real value of the
territory was the subject of much remark and controversy at the time of the
purchase. So little was known of WaUrussia that most vague statements
were made respecting it. And as the new regime is of such recent establish-
ment but little can be said here of the social condition of its inhabitants, or of
its value to mankind in general.
The one prominent feature which is of most interest in this work is the
peculiarity of its climate. In the first edition of this work (18.5U) the great
stream which, like another Atlantic Gulf Stream, passes swiftly along the
Japanese Archipelago, was traced for the first time, step by step, up to these
shores, and the circulatory system of the North Pacific was shown to be
analogous to that of the other oceans. Unlike the North Atlantic, the whole
of this eastward drift is carried on to the American coast (as explained in the
special Chapter hereafter), one portion along the Aleutian Islands, the other
towards Vancouver Island and Califrnia. The insignificant portion, which
passes through Bchring Straits, do not affect the great question. This
immense E.N.E. drift brings to the shores of Alaska a. .normous quantity of
water that is warmer than is due to the latitude. The one great result of this
is the wonderful development of animal life, which is the distinguishing
feature of the ocean washing it. It it the greatest Jithery in the world. The
accumulated development of ocean-life seems to be drifted on to the coast and
into its intricate fiords, as is the case, but in a minor degree, with the Atlantic
and the great fishing banks of the Loffoten Islands and the Coast of Norway.
The result of this um junded supply of ocean-food is that the rivers and
fiords teem with salmon to such an extent, that the quantity seems to be
incredible, were it not for the universal testimony of all who come here. In
the open sea, cod, halibut, and an infinite variety of fish, are to be caught in
unbounded quantities. Upon these fish and mollusca, the sea-otter by land,
and the whale in the sea exist, and are, at present, the chief objects of profit.
Settlements have been made at several places for the carrying on of the
fishery. In 1880, 10,000 cases of salmon are said to have been packed.
The climate of the region, too, is subject entirely to this ocean influence.
The prevalent S.W. winds, blowing over such a wide area of warmer ocenn,
bring to the land, and especially near the sea, a vast accumulation of aqueous
vapour, which, while it ameliorates the climate, and by its humidity causes
vegetation to be of most gigantic growth, makes the climate of Alaska to be
BO moist, that cultivation would seem to be hopeless. The following summary
• The history of the negotiiition, and the steps which led to it, are exhaustively related
in a "speech," by the Hon. Charles Sumner, before Congress, Washington, 1867. This ig
comprised in a closely printed pamphlut, of 96 columns ! and gives a resume of the whole
subject as far as was then known.
THE COAST OF ALASKA.
693
otfouyfftff years observations at the Imperial Observatory at Sitka will plainly
show this relation of temperature and rainfall.
Temp. Fahr. Rkin. Inches.
Spring (March— May) 41*.3 14.0
Summer (Juno — August) 64*.3 16.4
Autumn (September — KoTeikber] .... 44*.2 30.8
Winter (December— February) 31*.9 22.2
Mean
42>.9 Total
82.4
The greatest rainfall was 96 inches in 1850 ; least 58.6 inches in 1861. The
yearly average of days upon which rain, snow, and hail fell, or on which fog
prevailed, for fourteen years, was two hundred and forty-jive. These results
are from hourly observations.*
^t Ounalaska, according to Bishop Benjaminoff, the mean spring tempera-
ture was 33°.9, summer 49"'.6, autumn 37''.5, winter 30".! ; mean for the year
37''.8, or 5''.1 below that of Sitka.
The harbour of Sitka and the adjacent harbours never freeze, and the land
ice is unfit for the Californian market, which is supplied from Kodiak. Here
the ice forms from 15 to 25 inches each year, so that it is not thicker than
that of Boston, U.S., although it is 900 geographical miles further North ! a
wonderful evidence of ocean climate. 0' the whaling grounds we will briefly
speak in the next Chapter.f Of its forests, its coal fields and gold regions, wc
need not say anything — all these matters are yet in their infancy.
It is difficult to get an accurate estimate of the number of the population.
In 1836 the number of Russians in the territory of the Company was 730 ; of
native subjects, 1,442 Creoles, and about 11,000 aborigines of the Kurile,
Aleutian, and Kodiak Islands. In 1868 the population was reported by the
military commander to be, 2,000 whites and 60,000 half breeds and Indians ;
but this latter estimate must be very crude. Sitka is the port of entry. The
military force consisted of infantry and artillery, sufficient to garrison the six
military posts of Fort Tongas, Fort Wrangel, Fort Koutznou, Sitka, Fort
Kenai, and Fort Kodiak.
In 1870, Mr. W. H. Dall estimated the population at about 29,000, of
whom about 2,000 were whites and half-breeds. The latest estimate gives
about 40,000 natives, and about 500 whites.^
* In 1879 the U.S. Coast and Geodetic Survey issued a valuable work on the Meteoro-
\a\gj of Alaika, containing the results of obaervationa made at numerous stationn.
t When the representatives of the Federal Qovernment went to Sitka to receive the
transfer of the territory, a body of scientific men accompanied them, and the result of some
of their investigations, as given by Professor Davidson, was published in the Proceedings
of the California Academy of Natural Sciences, San Francisco, 1867.
X Much additional information relating to this territory will be found in Mr. W. H.
North Pacific, 4 o
!
SI
I
H
ill
594
THE COAST OF ALASKA.
The lawn of the United States relating to customs, commerce, and naviga-
tion, and the establishment of a collection district at Alaska, were extended to
the territory by the Act No. 125 of the Second Session of the 40th Congress,
passed July 27th, 1868. By the same Act the killing of fur-bearing animals
is prohibited, except under regulations prescribed by the Secretary of the
U.S. Treasury. By order of General Halleck, August 13th, 1868, the military
district is attached to California.
The character of the country, and its trade, &o., will be gathered from the
previous remarks and the subsequent imperfect descriptions. A portion of the
interior sounds were explored and surveyed by Vancouver, doubtless with his
usual accuracy, but of course this occurred before it was colonized by the
Russian Company. A Russian chart was published in 1853, which gave
many additional details, especially of the western face of the Sitka Archi-
pelago, which was re-surveyed by them. Additions to this chart have been
made by the U.S. surveyors, but up to the present time no systematic survey
of this coast has been made.
The southern part of this coast, or to as far northward as lat. 58° 15', is
fronted by numerous large islands, similar to the coast of British Columbia,
mostly rising in high mountains, and all covered with a dense growth of
vegetation. These islands are divided by numerous navigable passages.
The KOLOSCHENSK ABCHIPELAGO of the Russians, also known as the
Alexander Archipelago, is the extensive group of islands which lie between
the entrance of the Portland Canal, the boundary of the Territory, and the
northern part of the Sitka Islands. Its main features were well delineated by
Vancouver's survey in 1792, but in many parts, especially of that which has
become the principal part, the Sitka Group, the cursory examination he made
is somewhat defective. The Russian and United States off.cers have made us
better acquainted with it, and the King George III. Archipelago of our
illustrious navigator is now separated into four or more large islands. The
Russian designation is derived from the Indian tribes who inhabit them.
These Koloschians, or Kaloshes, have been known in British Columbia as
Stikines, and they speak the same language, or at least a dialect of it, as the
natives of Vancouver Island and the adjacent continent. Their number is
assumed as from 12,000 to 15,000, and they are separated into several families
or tribes. Although very much has been done by the settlers in bringing
them into a better condition than the primitive savages they were, they must
not be trusted.
Doll's valuable work, " Alaska and its Resouroes," and in other works by the same author.
Another valuable contribution to our knowledge of Alaska \» " Capitaiu Jacobaen's Beise
an der Nordwestkiiste Amerikas, 1881 — 1883," edited by A. Woldt, 1884. Oapt. Jacobsen
was sent out to procure ethnographical material for the Royal Berlin Museum. In
" From Fifth Avenue to Alaska," by Mr. £. Pierrepoint, 1884, an account will be found
of a voyage along the coast in 1883.
'1 '
I
^Ji-
TONGAS— nEVILLA GIQEDO CHANNEL.
695
The PORTLAND CAI7AL, forming the boundary, has been described be-
fore, pp. 561 — 568. Cape Fox forms the N.W. point of the approaches to it.
TONOAS, the southernmost of the military posts established by the United
States on their new territory, is on a small island, one of the Wales Island
group, which form the North side of the entrance to the Portland Canal,
about 3i miles N.E. by E. J E. from Cape Fox, in about lat. 64' 47' N., long.
130° 44' W., and opposite to Port Simpson, which is distant about 17 miles to
the E.S.E. I'he fort, which is garrisoned by one company, is of the usual
description, and the primeval forest had to be cleared for the purpose of
f^-Tiing the post. Fish, as everywhere besides, is most abundant. The
Tongas Indians, a small tribe of about 500 people, inhabited these islands. The
climate here is very damp, this locality being stated to have the heaviest rain-
fall in Alaska.
From Cnpe Fox the coast takes a westerly direction 4 miles, and then
N.W. i N. nearly 6 miles further, to a projecting point called Foggy Cape, the
coast being very rocky and dangerous. North of Foggy Cape is a large bay
filled with a labyrinth of small islands, rocks, and shoals, the north-western-
most and largest being N.W. by W. nearly 3 miles distant.
REVILLA OIOEDO CHANNEL.— Cape Fox on the East, and Cape
Northumberland on the West, bearing E. J N. and W. J S. 15 miles apart,
form the southern entrance to the Canal de Revilla Gigedo of Caamano, here-
after noticed. This channel, including Tongas Narrows, may be advan-
tageously used to keep in smooth water, and to avoid the frequent heavy swell
setting throu^ Dixon Entrance from the ocean into the South part of Duke
of Clarence Strait.
Four miles north-westward of the island above mentioned is the entrance to
the Boca de Quadra, which is almost rendered inaccessible by islets and rocks.
The inlet first takes a direction of N.N.E., to a point 7 miles within the
entrance, whence the shores become less elevated, and the inlet takes a
S.E. by E. ^ E. direction for 5 miles, and then North for 17 miles to its head,
in lat. 65° 17^', a small border of low land, through which flow two rivulets.
'J'he sides of this canal are nearly straight, firm, and compact, composed of
high, steep, rocky cliffs, covered with wood. Near the entrance, in the
Revilla Gigedo Canal, is an islet called by Vancouver Slate Islet, a prodigious
mass of this stone differing from any other about here. About 5 miles
N.W. by W. of the entrance is Point Sykes, and N.W. by N. 10 miles farther,
is Point Alava, and between these points is the entrance to Behm Canal, in
which lies Mary Island.
BEHM CANAL, so named after Major Behm, is one of those extensive
and singular arms which abound on this forbidding and inhospitable coast.
It runs northward for 65 miles, then westwardly and southwardly, encircling
the large island of Revilla Gigedo, and this is separated on the S.W. by tho
I!
r,
6M
THE COAST OF ALASKA.
strait of the Mme name, and Tongas Narrows, from Qravina and Annette
Islands.
From Point Sykei, the S.E. point of the entrance, the South shore runs
N. by E. 10 miles to Point Nelson, tie inlet being from 7 to 9 miles wide.
Eastward of Point Nelson an inlet takes a N.E. by E. and North direction for
4 miles, terminating in the usual manner, "ihe surrounding country consists
of a huge mass of steep, barren, rocky mountains, destituio of soil, the summits
covered with perpetual snow. The shores are nearly perpendicular cliffs
rising from the water's edge, llie N.E. po'nt of this inlet is Point Trollope,
6 miles from Point Nelson. In this part of tu^f canal ar? several islands.
North-westward of Point TroHopo are two long narrow islands on the Eaot
side, forming a narrow chur.nel 7 miies long inside o^ them. OfT the N.W.
point of the northernmost of these, bearing N.W. about 2 miles distant, is a
very remarkable rock, named by Vancouver the New Eddystone, from its
resemblance to the celebrated lighthouse and rock. Its circumference at its
bise is about 50 yards, standing perpendicularly on a surface of fine dark-
coloured sand. Its surface is uneven, and its diameter regularly decreases to
a few feet at its apex. Its height was found to be above 230 ft., lat. 55° 29'.
On the East shore of the canal, 4 miles above the New Eddystone, is an
unimportant arm, 7 miles in depth. The coast beyond this is straight and
compact, trending N.W. \ N. 8 miles to Walker Cove, an inlet extending
6 miles N.E. by N. The main inlet extends in a W.N.W. direction from
Walker Cove. The water is of a very light colour, not very salt, and the
interior country, on the Island of Revilla Oigedo, rises into rugged mountains,
little inferior in iieight to those on the eastern side. The shores here are
nowhere more than 2 miles apart, and on the East shore, to the northward of
the cove, is a cluster of rocks a mile in extent. Proceeding northward, the
canal takes a more westerly direction to Fitzyibbon Point on the East side, in
lat. 55° 56' ; and the opposite point, on che island, is called Point Whaley,
Borrongh Bay extends N. by £. ^ E. from Point Fitzgibbon about 6 miles,
where it is terminated by low land, chrough which three or four small rivulets
appear to flow over a bank of mud stretching from the head of the arm, and
reaching from side to side, on w'aich was lodged a quantity of drift wood.
When Vancouver was here, August 11th, 179S, he found the water perfectly
fresh, and the whole surfa e of the hay strewed over with salmon, either dead
or in the last stages of existence. They were all small, of one sort, and called
by him hunchbacked salmon, from a sort of excrescence rising along 'he backs
of the male fish. In all parts of the inlet, particularly in the arms, and in
every run of fresh water, vast numbers of these fish were seen, but all in &
sickly condition. If any just conclusion could be drawn from the immense
numbers found dead, not only in the water, but lodged on the shores below
high-water mark, it would seem that their death takes place immediately after
spawning, for the purpose of which they ascend these inlets.
iil^.
ftEIlM CANAli— roUT STEWART.
607
From the mouth of Burrotigh Bay, the main inlet takes an irregular
S.W. by 8. direction, to a point on the North shore, nearly C miles from Point
Whaley, named Point Lees. Beyond Point Lees the North shore of the
principal channel is formed by Bell Island, which is about 6 miles long in a
N.N.E. and S.S.W. direction.
The point on the South shore, beyond the West point of Bell Island, is in
lat. 66° 60', long. 131° 39' (Vancouver, vol. ii, p. 367) ; and her- the channel
turns sharp to the southward, and widens in that direction. On the opposite
side of the canal is an inlet extending in a westerly direction, for about
4 miles, and to the South of this inlet is a large bay, terminating in a sandy
beach nearly all round, its shores moderately elevated and thickly wooded.
Oif its S.E. point is an island, but no channel inside it. The interior country
is not very high, particularly westward, where a low wooded country extends
as far as the eye can reach.
Port Stewart, named after one of the mates of Vancouver's ship, is to the
S.S.E. of this, its South point of entrance being in lat. 66° 38' 15" N., long.
131° 15' W. Here Vancouver remained with his vessel in August .md
tember, 1793. He found it a small but convenient bay, secured, by several
before it, from the wind in all directions. Both excellent water and
wood in abundance were found close at hand.
It is formed by a bay in the land, having several islets and rocks lying
before it ; within these, from the South point of its entrance, it takes a course
of N.W. by W. i W., about 1^ mile in length and three-quarters of a mile in
breadth. In this space it affords good and secure anchorage, in from 4 to 1 8
fathoms, good holding ground. Towards its head are two very snug coves
or basins, one of which is a continuation of the port, the other formed by
an indent in the land. The best passage into Fori Stewart is between the
southernmost isle and the main land ; this is perfectly free from any obstruc-
tion, with soundings from 4 fathoms at the side to 1 1 fathoms in the middle.
The other passages are not very safe, having several rocks in them.
The eastern shore of Behm Canal, southward of the point where it Msumes
a southerly direction, is much broken and intersected with arms ; and
oppos;te to Port Stewart is a cove near which Vancouver was attacked by
Indians, in which two of his men were severely wounded ; hence he called it
Traitor's Cove, and a point to the South on which he landed, in lat. 65° 35',
Escape Point.
Cape Caamano, the South point of the peninsula dividing Behm Canal
from Clarence Strait, is in lat. 55° 29' N., long. 131° 52' W., and was so
called after the Spanish commander who first delineated (though imperfectly)
these shores.
On the opposite side of the channel, the westernmost point of the island of
Bevilla Gigedo is called Point Higgins, after the then President of Chile,
Seur. Higgins de Vallenar, and this latter name is applied to the North p oiut
•M
r.0'''
i. I
'5'
.1
I J !
: 4 .
666
THE COAST OK ALASKA.
of the Island Grnvinn, S. by E. 2 miles from Point Higgins. From two small
islands off Poinf Vallenar extends a ledge of rocks, parts of which are only
visible at low tide. Beaton hland lies to the northward of Point Higgins,
ngainst th«> eastern coast ; dangerous rocks lie half a mile off its northern
shore.
TONOAS NARBOWS, the narrow part of the Canal Revilla Gigedo of
Seiior Canraano, separates, as before stated, the Island, or rather Islands, of
Gravina from Revilla Gigedo Island and the main land. It runs W, by S.
from between Points Higgins and Vallenar to the southern entrance of Behm
Canal, described previously. It was not explored by Vancouver, and Lieut.
J. E. Craig, U.S.S. Alaska, 1879, states that it is merely outlined on the
charts, and very incorrectly, as it is a winding and extremely narrow channel,
the navigation of which is only safe with a competent pilot, as there are
many hidden dangers, and its sides are bordered by numerous low islets.
In some parts the channel is less than a quarter of a mile in width. The
current through the narrows is very swift.
Ward Harbour or Cove is situated on the East side of the narrows, about
3 miles from the northern end. There are wooded bluffs on each side of the
entrance, and on the North side two wooded islets. It appears to be from IJ
to 2 miles deep and about 1 mile wide. The Alaska anchored in 6 fathoms, fine
brown sand, with the entrance points bearing S. i W. and 8.W. by S. J S. ;
well sheltered on all sides by high land.
DUKE OF CLARENCE STRAIT separates the Prince of Wales Archi-
pelago on the West from the islands we have been describing on the East, and
from the Duke of York and other islands northward, and is probably the
opening distinguished in Caaraano's chart as the " Estrecho del Almirante
Fuentes, y Entrada de Nostra Sen. del Ciirmin."
Cape Korthamberlaind is the southernmost point of the Gravinn Islands,
and off it are several clusters of rocks, the bearings of the principal of which,
from a tolerably highroimd island lying about a mile S.E. by S. from the cape,
are as follow: the outermost to the N.W., W. i N., 3J miles; the south-
westernmost, S.W. 4J miles; the southernmost, which is the most distant,
S.E. by S. 6^^ miles ; and the south-easternmost, E. by S. J S. 5 miles distant.
Within some of these the intermediate spaces are occupied by an immense number
of rocks and breakers. The southernmost is a round lump of barj-en rock,
always above water, the channel between which and the N.W. and S.E, rocks
appeared to have no dangers in it. On the chart two other reefs are marked
outside these, the positions of which are doubtful, The one is called the
Devil's Ridge, and bears 1»^ miles S. i E, of Cape Northumberland; the other
is 1 6 miles to S. by W. i W. of the same cape.
Capt. J. C. Brundige, who searched for Devil's Bidge, says, «' I found a
sunken rock about 4 miles north-westerly of Zayas Island, having only 6 ft. over
it at low water. As near as I could judge the reef is not more than 1 acre. I
DUKE OF CLAKENCE STRAIT.
699
obtained several good observations and found it to lie with Cape do Chacon
bearing S.W. by W. ; Gnarled Island, E. by N, | N. ; and Zayas Island,
S.E. by S. i S. I havf: no doubt of this being the Devil's Kidge. I was told
by several Ilydah chiefs, that there is no other rock or reef in this locality.
" The Indians also informed mo that I would find one big stone between
Capes de Chacon and Northumberland. We then steered for the place
indicated, and saw the sea breaking heavily at about 2 miles off. I approached
as near as possible and took the following bearings : Cape de Chacon,
S.W. by W. ; island off Cape Northumberland, E. by N. ^ N. ; small island on
the West side of Clarence Strait, N.W. i W. The above bearings place
this reef 8 miles true North of where it is placed on the chart, marked
position doubtful. The breakers appeared to cover a space fully I mile in
extent." See note on p. 538.
Point Percy lies 9 miles W. by N. i N. from Cape Northumberland, and to
the E.N.E. of it there appeared to be an opening through Gravina Islands to
Behra Channel. It is the westorn extremity of a long, narrow cluster of low
islands, extending about 3^^ miles in a N.N.E. direction, nearly uniting to
the eastern shore, which is much broken North and South of them. Between
this point and Cape Northumberland are several clusters of dangerous rocks,
lyit.g in all directions, a considerable distance from shore, and indicated by the
weeds growing on them.
Tomgas Harbour. — Point Davison bears N.W. by W. i W. 2i miles from
Point Percy, and is in lat. 55° OJ' N. Between these points is the entrance
to the sheltered basin named Tomgas Harbour, which can also be entered by
the channel eastward of the islands, and is about 2 miles in length. At 3 miles
N. by E. of Point Davison the channel turns tc the N.W. and becomes narrower,
but with deep water. Anchorage will be found in about 15 fathoms in the
southern part of the harbour.
From Point Davison the coast runs N. by E. towards an opening about
2 miles wide, appearing to divide Gravina Island. In it are innumerable
rocks and rocky islets. Northward of this the shores trend N.N.W. 5 mlU,^,
and then about N.W. 20 miles to Point Vallenar. The shores of the Gra' ina
Islands are of moderate height, and covered with wood.
The southern entrance to the Duke of Clarence Strait lies between Cape
Northumberland on the East, and Cape de Chacon on the West. This latter
cape is the S.E. point of the Prince of Wales Archipelago, and bears
S.W. i S. from the former, about 25 miles distant, in lat. 54° 43', long.
131° 54'. About 3 miles southward of the cape is an extensive reef, on
which the sea breaks heavily. Capt. Brundige says the cape should not be
approached within 5 miles, except in clear weather.
About 9 miles northward of Cape de Chacon is the entrance to Gardner
Harbour, a small indentation in the coast, about a mile in extent, in which
there is anchorage. The first considerable opening on the western shore of
'¥ III '
, 'i- i
! K :(
llVl'^f'^
600
THE COAST OF ALASKA.
! i
1 I
:
I I
the strait, North of Cape de Chacon, is Moira Sound, which takes a south*
westerly direotion. From this sound the western shore takes a N.N.W.
direction, and fonna some bays. The largest of these, situated in lat. 55° 8',
has, in and before it, several smaller islets, the outermost being by far the
largest, &nd as it in many points of view resembled a wedge, it was called
Wedye Island ; off its South point lie.s a ledge of dangerous rocks. The land
iu the neighbourhood of Moira Sound is high, and rather steep to the sea ; but
beyond Wedge Island the straight and compact shores are more moderately
elevated, and the interior country is composed of lofty, though uneven moun-
tains, producing an almost impenetrable forest of pine trees, &om the water-
side nearly to their summits.
At 8 miles N.W. f N. of Wedge Island is a projecting point, in lat. 55° 16^,
and to the West of this is Cholmondeley Sound, which extends to the south-
ward, divided into several branches. Some small islands lie to the N.W. of
the entrance. On the eastern side of the entrance was the Eussian settlement,
Chaiintzeff, off which there is anchorage.
Point Grindall bears from Cape Caanaano S.W. by S. J S. about 5 miles
distant, with some rocks anJ breakers extending about a mile northward of it.
Grindall Island lies about a mile to the N.E. From Point Grindall an inlet,
named Casaan Bay, runs 13 miles W. by S. ^ S., having at its head the fishing
station named Baranovitch. Here the tide rises about 1 6 ft.
The strait up to this part varies from 3J to 1 1 miles in width ; and, with the
exception of the dangers immediately adjacent to the shores, is open and clear
throughout.
From Cape Caamano to Point Le Mesurier the coast first treuds W. J N., 6
miles, and then N.W. ^ W., 15 miles ; about half-way between these points is
a small island, with a passage between it and the eastern shore. Point Le
Mesurier projects from the main land to the west svavd, and has some isletti and
rocks extending about a mile from it. Opposite to Point Le Mesurier m Point
Onslow, N.W. by N. i N., 5^ miles distant, and between these points is the
entrance of an inlet, nearly as extensive as the one it enters, named Prince
Ernest Sound (after the Duke of Cumberland, afterwards King of Hanover).
Point Onslow is the South extreme of the island or islands forming the Duko
of York Archipelago.
The continental shore from Point Le Mesurier trends N. i E. to a point 12
miles distant, and is indented with bays. The opposite shores then incline
more to the eastward from this point ; and 4 miles to the northward of it is
the South point of an island thence extending N.W. 5 miles, leaving a tfllorably
good channel between it and the East shore. At 7^ miles N. by W. i W.
from the bay within the South end of the island is Poitit IVarde, iu lat. 56° 9'.
The western shore is irregular in its direction, and much broken; opposite the
island it is 6 miles distant.
From Point Worde the coast takes a sharp turn N.E. } N., 4 miles, to a
WRANGEL— FORT STIKINE.
601
to a
I
point where the ohaonel divides into two branches ; the easternmost extends
N.E. by E. about 10 miles, terminating in the usual way, and named Bradfield
Canal, The main branch extends in a N.W. by W. direction, 1 1 miles, to a
point in lat. 56° 22', where it again divides into two branches. This part of
the passage is not more than three-quarters of a mile broad, with an island and
two islets at the entrance from Bradfield Canal. At the North end the main
channel, before which lie several rocks and small islets, is not more than a
quarter of a mile wide, extending irregularly to the N.W. and S.W., forming
a passage about 3^ miles long to Point Maclan, where the channel is more
spacious, and again bifurcates, one branch trending to S.E. by S. through a
broken insulated region, the other stretching to the north-westward, nearly 2
miles wide. In this direction it proceeds about 16 miles to a very conspicuous
point, in lat. 56° 33', named Point Highfield, the northernmost point of Wrangel
Island, where the channel again appears to divide into two branches, to the
N.W. by N. and S.W. Between the North end of Wrangel Island and the
small Simonoff Island, 4 cables distant, anchorage will be found in 9 to 13
fathoms.
Etoline Harbour is on the western side of the North end of Wrangel Island,
3 miles S.E. of Highfield Point; lat. 56° 31' N., long. 132" 21^' W.
WBANOEL, one of the six military posts of the United States, is pleasantly
situated at Etoline Harbour. The scenery around is very fine, backed by lofty
snowy mountains. The buildings erected are most substantial, and th^re is a
large Indian village in the immediate vicinity.
Fort Stikine, near the mouth of the river, was originally founded by the
Russian- American Company, and in 1 842 was transferred to the Hudson's Bay
Company, on a lease of 10 years. The establishment, of which the site had not
been well selected, was situated on a peninsula barely large enough for the
necessary buildings ; while the tide, by overflowing the isthmus at high water,
rendered any artificial extension of the premises almost impracticable ; and the
slime that was periodically deposited by the receding sea was aided by the
putridity and filth of the native villages in the neighbourhood, in oppressing
the atmosphere with a most nauseous perfume. The harbour, moreover, was
80 narrow, that a vessel of 100 tons, instead of swinging at anchor, was under
the necessity of mooring stem and stern ; and the supply of fresh water was
brought by a wooden aqueduct, which the savages might at any time destroy,
from a stream about 200 yards distant.
The apparent opening to the northward of Point Highfield is entirely closed
by a shoal extending across it from Point Rothsay on the East or continental
shore, to Point Blaquiere on the opposite side, on the edge of which there is
only 6 and 9 ft. water. To the South of this shoal, and in its immediate vicinity,
are four small islands and two or three islets ; one of the former upon the shoal,
and the others, at the distance of 4 J miles from Point Highfield, extend to the
North Pacijic. 4 H
•• ?s->
114
Mi?
1^-
II: I
! I
:f
1
■■Hi
11
4
.1
! t
,i
602
THE COAST OF ALASKA.
S.W. of it. This shoal is very steep-to, and, by its connection with the adjoin-
ing land, it may be said to make the latter form a portion of the continent.
The BIVER STIKINE, Stachine, or Pelly River, enters this part of the
inland navigation, and has formed the shoal above mentioned, which thus
closes its entrance, but it is probable that local enterprise and knowledge will
Bhow a useful channel into it. The Stikine empties itself into the ocean by two
channels, respectively 4 and 8 miles distant from the fort. The latter is navi-
gable for canoes ; while the other, though only in the season of high water, can
be ascended by the steamer about 30 miles. Gold has recently been found in
this district.
The establishment is frequented by the Secatquonays, who occupy the main
land about the mouths of the river, and also the neighbouring islands. Most
of these Indians make trading excursions into the interior, in order to obtain
furs. Their grand emporium is a village, 60 miles distant from Dease's Lake,
and 150 miles from the sea, and thither they resort three or four times a year. —
Sir George Simpson,
The North shore of the principal arm leading from the mouth of Stikine
River now takes a direction of S.W. by W. for 14 miles to Point Howe, The
Bhores are indented with small bays, with some small islets ; the opposite, or
South shore, is about 3 miles distant ; and, to the westward of Point Craig,
lying from Point Howe East, 7 miles, the shore appears firm and compact ; to
the eastward of it, it is much broken and divided. From Point Howe the shore
rounds in a westerly direction to Point Alexander, the eastern point of the
entrance to Duncan Canal, which stretches irregularly N. W. by N. and W.N.W.
to its termination in a shallow bay, bounded to the North by a low sandy Hat,
in lat. 66° 58'. The entrance is formed into two channels by Woewodski Island;
the easternmost, named Wrangel Channel, is a narrow passage running north-
ward into the eastern end of Prince Frederick Sound, with a rock nearly in the
centre of its southern entrance. It first trends N.W. by N. for 6 mik-s, nnd
here it communicates with the more spacious western branch, about 2 miles
wide, on the western side of the island, the channel passing South of Point
Hood, in lat. 56° 40J'. From Point Hood, Wrangel Channel trends 4J miles
N. by E. to a low place producing very long grass, passing through broken
land, the depth varying from 2 to 6 fathoms. Hence the channel curves in a
general N.W. by N. direction, 9 miles, to Frederick Strait, its northern
entrance.
Point Mitchell forms the S.W. point of Duncan Canal, and is opposite the
opening of the southern branch of the Duke of Clarence Stroit, the descrip-
tion of which we will resume from the point where Prince Ernest Sound
diverges from it.
Point Onslow, as before mentioned (page 600), is the North point of the en-
trance of Prince Ernest Sound ; and from this to Point Stanhope, the next pro-
jection on the eastern shore of the channel, the distance is 15 miles to W.N.W.,
J
ii
' the en-
DUKE OP CLARENCE STRAIT— PORT rROTECTION. 603
some islets lying off the interyening broken coast. The coast then extends
N.W., about 9 miles, to Point Harrington, 3^ miles southward of which is a
small island, having on the North side tolerable anchorage, close under the
shores of Etoline Island, in Steamer Bay. The soundings are irregular, and
the bottom is rocky in parts.
Point Neshitt, the high South point of Zarembo Island, is in lat. 56° 13', and
bears from Point Harrington Wesi, .:bout 6 miles, the interval forming the
opening to Stachinski Strait, which trends northward towards the entrance of
Stachine or Stikine River. Off Point Harrington, and nearly in mid-channel,
is a cluster of low rocks ; and a ledge also extends southward of Point Nesbitt.
These seem very dangerous, as most of them are only visible at low water.
Bushy Island, which lies in the channel to the westward of Point Nesbitt,
is about 2 miles long, having off its shores, on both sides, some detached rocks,
but leaving between it and the eastern shore a navigable channel, extending
westward to between Point Macnamara on the East, and Point Colpoyt on the
West ; the latter bearing W.S.W. 6 miles from the former. Here the channel
enters from the north-eastward, as before described, and bears to the westward
and southward, through Duke of Clarence Strait, to the ocean. Point Mitchell,
the S.W. point of Kuprianoff Island, on the S.W. side of the entrance to
Duncan Canal, is the point on the North shore opposite to Point Colpoys, and
is 9 miles distant. The northern shore of this branch of the strait extends
S.W. J W. to Point Barrie, a distance of 19 miles. In that space are in-
numerable rocks ; and nearly midway between the two points there is a large
bay.
The southern shore forms the North coast of the Prince of Wales Archi-
pelago, and the distance between Point Colpoys and Point Baker, its East
and West extremes, is 16 miles. Just to the south-westward of Point Baker,
which is in lat. 56^ 21' 30", long. 133° 33', on an islet close to the shore, is an
excellent harbour. Port Protection, which afforded Vancouver an asylum when
he little expected it, amidst impending dangers, in September, 1793.
POET PROTECTION will be most readily found by attending to the fol-
lowing directions. It is situated at the N.W. extremity of the Prince of
Wales Archipelago ; its southern extreme comprises the base of a very remark-
able barren peaked mountain, named Mount Colder, which is conspicuous in
many points of view. An islet close to the shore forms the N.E. point of en-
trance, from whence the opposite point lies South, three-quarters of a mile
distant ; the channel is good, and free to enter, yet there is one lurking rock,
visible only at low tide, lying in a S.S.E. direction from the islet, 3 cables
distant ; it is clear all round, and indicated by weeds. There is also an irregu-
lar bank north-westward of the entrance, with from 15 to 32 fathoms ; this,
with the meeting of the tides around the Prince of Wales Archipelago, oauseb
»n agitation, or race, especially at the flood tide, bvt Uiere ii ao danger, th«
depth being very great.
mm
M
f't.vj'l
t\(-:m
:i.i:.
ItiV •.■■■P'JlJl -J
W'«
¥'i
•I
1
I
i
:
:| i
. !
'It
■I;
'!!
^ 1
=
:
1
■i
1
604
THE COAST OF ALASKA.
The harbour takes a general direction from its entrance E. by S. i S. for 2^
miles, and its navigable extent is from 5 to 3 cables in width, beyond which it
terminates in small shallow coves. The depth is rather irregular, from 30 to
60 fathoms ; the shores are in most places steep and rocky, and are covered
with an impenetrable forest of pine and other trees. They afford several streams
of fresh water ; some fish and fruit were found, as also wild fowl. The tides
appear to be irregular, but come from the South, and it is high water 7^ 40"
after the moon passes the meridian.
Points Baker and Barrie form, as before stated, the western extremes of the
branch of Duke of Clarence Strait, which trends E.N.E. and W.S.W. West-
ward of this the strait takes a southerly direction to the Pacific, and the
western shore of this portion is formed by the southern end of an island called
Kou Itland by the Russians, which is singularly intersected by deep bays and
inlets, and the shores of which are bestrewed with innumerable rocks, Mrith a
narrow channel separating it from the main, so full of rocks and dangers that
it certainly is not navigable.
The western shore of the strait bears from Point Barrie in a West direction,
but between is Conclusion Itland, about 3^ miles long, N.W. and S.E. Be-
tween Point Baker and Conclusion Island, distant from the former 4 miles,
and close to Point Barrie, is a smaller island, low, and about 2 miles long
N.W. by N. and S.E. by S., with a ledge of very dangerous rocks extending
from its South point. At 2^ miles westward of this is another island, with two
smaller ones off its South point. From hence the coast takes an irregular
direction about S.E. by S. ^ S. to a point in lat. 56" 17', forming the N.E.
point of entrance into Port Beauclerc.
Fort Beaaolero is of easy access and egress, free from every obstruction but
such as are sufficiently evident to be avoided. The opposite point of entrance
lies S.W. by S., 2 miles distant ; and from the points of entrance it extends
N.W. by W. 4i miles, and S.W. by S. 2 miles. Nearly in the middle is a
small island and some rocky islets, and a rocky islet with some rocks lies
before its entrance, S.E. by E., 1^ mile from the N.E. point of the entrance. The
surrounding shores are in general moderately elevated, and well covered with
wood, and water is easily procured.
Point Ameliua lies about 3 miles southward of the entrance of Port Beau-
clerc, and here the coast forms a bay for about 3 miles to the westward, and
thence it takes a south-easterly direction, about 6 miles, to Point St. Albans,
which is a low '•ocky point, in lat. 66° 7', long. 133" 61'. Off this portion of
the coast, islets, rocks, and breakers extend about 3 miles. About 3 miles
northward of the point is a snug boat cove.
Affleck Canal extends to the N.W. by N. 16 miles, immediately to the
westward of Point St. Albans. Its eastern shore has rocks off it for the first
4i milee, and then becomes straight and compact to its termination in some
low land, through which flow some streams of fresh water. The eastern aidef
CAPE DECISION— PORT BUCARELI.
605
of the canal are mountainous, but not so steep as the interior country. The
western side, from half a mile to 2 miles distant, is moderately elevated, and is
indented by three large bays in its southern part.
CAPE DECISION, the South extreme of Eou Island, is a rery conspicuous
promontory, extending in a South direction into the ocean, in lat. 56^ 2' N.,
long. 134° 3' W. To S.S.E. of the cape are some islands; the largest. Coro-
nation Island, being about 20 miles in circuit. From the N.E. point of this
island, which bears S.E. 5^ miles from Cape Decision, is a range of rooky
islets extending to N. by W. ^ W., to within 1^ mile of the main land, the
space between them and the cape appearing free from interruption.
Cape Pole is the promontory on the western shore of the Prince of Wales
Archipelago, which forms, with Cape Decision, 1 1 miles to W. ^ S., the en-
trance to the Duke of Clarence Strait. Off Cape Pole is Warren Itland,
which is high ; and between it and the cape many lurking rocks were observed.
To the southward of it, also, and appearing to extend to a distance of 4 miles
from the island, are some clusters of very dangerous rocks. Nearly in mid-
channel, between Warren and Coronation Islands, there was no bottom at 120
fathoms.
Although the navigation of Clarence Strait may be free from danger, yet it
ought not to be used without much circumspection, as several rocks are marked
on the chart.
Of the coast of the Prince of Wales Archipelago we know but very little.
From Cape Pole the western shore of the Archipelago trends very irregularly
to the E.S.E., and at 6 or 7 miles from the cape is the entrance to Sachine
Strait, a narrow channel which, running in the same direction for more than 15
miles, insulates what was thought to be the main land of the chief island, and
terminates in Tonock Bay. The outer coast then trends to the S.S.W. for 20
miles to Cape Addington.
Cape Adding^n, which appears to be the next most remarkable promon-
tory to the South of Cape Pole, was so named by Vancouver, after the Speaker
of the House of Commons. It is very conspicuous, and is in lat. 55° 27' N.,
long. 133° 48' W.
Port Buoareli, a very extensive inland sea, lies at the back of and to the
south-eastward of Cape Addington. It was discovered by Ayala and Quadra,
the two Spanish navigators, who anchored here on August 16th, 1775, and
named it Puerto del Baylio Bucareli, in honour of the Mexican viceroy. It
seems also to be the same as Sea Otter Sound of Meares, and is formed by
several islands. They here took possession, in the name of his Catholic Majesty,
of all the country they saw, and all they did not oee. The unfortunate La
Perouse also explored it. The tide here rises 13 ft.
Cape 8an Bartolom is the West point of the entrance of this inland sea, and
is in lat. 56° 13', long. 133° 38', and is the South extremity of a long, narrow
1^^
i
606
THE COAST OF ALASKA..
!
I!
' I
: I
peninsula, extending in a southerly direction, with some islets off it ; it is pro-
bably the Cape Barnett of Meares.
The entrance lies between Cape San Bartolom and the West coast of Suemez
Itland, 5i miles apart. There is anchorage in a bay on the N.W. side of
Suemez Island, at 8 miles within the entrance. To the N.E. of this it opens
out into a large bay, with many islands. On the N.E. side of this bay is a
settlement, called Kliavakhan, and to the S.E. it leads to Tlevack Strait, which
enters the N.W. part of Cordova Bay.
From Suemez Island the S.W. coast of the Archipelago extends to the S.E.
for 27 miles to Port Bazan, which is separated into two arms by an island, the
anchorage being in the southern arm. Cape Muzon, the S.E. point of the
Archipelago, is 12 miles to the East. Capt. Brundige states that it is a sharp,
barren, bluff point, with deep water close to it, and four small islands on its
N.E. side. To the northward of this cape is the entrance to Kaigahnee Strait,
between Dallis and Long Islands. There are two villages on Long Island, and
on the opposite shore is an indentation named American Bay. Near here the
channel is very narrow at Howkan Strait, leading to the South end of Tlevak
Strait. To the eastward of this, at the South end of Prince of Wales Island,
is the extensive bay called Port Cordova in the Spanish charts, and is the Port
Meares of that commander.
Baia Isle, or Wolf Rock, lying off the mouth of Port Bucareli, is one of the
most dangerous impediments to navigation on the exterior coast, and from these
circumstances it obtained from Vancouver its latter name. It is a very low,
flat, rocky islet, surrounded by rocks and breakers, which extend some distance
from it. It lies 13 miles S.E. i E. from Cape San Bartolom, 10^ miles from the
nearest point of the contiguous shore, and 8 miles N. by W. from San Carlos
Island. It was seen by the Spaniards in 1775, who called it Rasa, or low. By
Capt. Douglas it was called Forrester Island in 1786.
Ban Carloi is a small high island, the South point of which is in lat.
64" 48', long. 133° 30'. The channel between it and Wolf Rock appears to be
free from interruption. It was discovered by Ayala and Quadra, in August,
1775, and by them named San Carlos Island. It is called Douglas laland by
Meares and others, and Forrester Iilandhy Dixon and Vancouver, but its real
name must be that first applied by the Spaniards. It is very high, covered
with verdure, and visible about 60 miles off.
We now return to the northward.
CHBISTIAN SOUKD.— Between Cape Decision and Cape Ommaney, which
latte- is in lat. 66° 10', long. 134° 33^', and 16 miles distant from the former,
b Christian Sound, which forms the southern entrance to a very extensive in-
land navigation, extending in a remarkably straight direction to N.W. ^ N.,
through upwards of 3° of latitude, separating a series of large islands from the
contiiient of America. The principal of these are Chatham Strait, leading im«
mediately from Christian Sound to the northward ; Prince Frederick 8ott&d|
I
CHRISTIAN SOUND— PRINCE FREDERICK SOUND.
607
diverging eastward from it ; and Stephens Passage, which branches northward
out of the latter. These principal arms insulate the Sitka Islands (or ICing
George the Third Archipelago), Admiralty Island, and numerous subordinate
islands, which will be described in due order, commencing with the continentul
shores. Christian Sound is noticed again hereafter.
From Cape Decision the coast trends N.W. i N. about 15 miles to the
North point of Port Malmeshury. This is about 3 miles deep N. by W., and
then 3 miles S.E. by E., and has some islets and rocks in it ; notwithstanding
which it affords very excellent shelter in from 17 to 34 and 12 fathoms water,
and is conveniently situated towards the ocean. The North point, called
Point Harris or Gams, is rendered very remarkable by its being a projecting
point, on which is a single hill, appearing from many points of view like an
island, with an islet and some rocks extending nearly a mile to the southward
of it. At 7 miles farther northward is the South point of a large bay full oi
innumerable islets and rocks, the N.W. point of which, Point Ellis, is in lat.
66° 31', long. 134° 15'. Point Sullivan, which is the next point in the main
inlet to the northward, is in lat. 56° 38', and East of this, also, is an inlet full
of rocks and islets. From Point Sullivan the shores to the northward are less
rocky, taking a direction of N.W. f N. 13 miles, to Point Kingsmill, which is
conspicuous.
Point Kinpsmill is the S.W. point of Prince Frederick Sound, the opposite
point of entrance being Point Gardner, the S.W. extreme of Admiralty Island.
This sound extends to the N.N.E. and E.N.E.
PRINCE FEEDERICK SOUND.— From Point Kingsmill to Point Corn-
wallis the bearing and distance are N. by E. i E. G^ miles, the space between
being occupied by two bays, each taking an easterly direction, 1 or IJ mile
wide, and 4 or 5 miles deep, and containing many islets and dangerous rocks.
The northern bay is named Saginaw, and the southern one Security Bay.
The entrance of the latter is about half a mile wide between the South
point and some islands lying on a flat on the North side, and here there is
good anchorage in 12 fathoms. Farther in there is anchorage in 10 fathoms,
off the village on the North side, and northward of Cleft Island. The tide
rises here about 14 ft.
To the eastward of Point Comwallis are Kiku Islands and Strait; the West
shore of the latter trends to the S.S.E. 9 miles, from the northern Kiku Island,
and from this point Port Camden, an inlet about 1^ mile wide, runs in a
S. by E. direction 12 miles, to within 2 miles of the head of the inlet N.N.E.
of Point Ellis, previously mentioned. The shores of Port Camden are pretty
free from islets and rocks, but those to the N.W. of it are lined with them, and
render the approaching of it extremely dangerous, and its southern extension
is perfectly unnavigable for shipping. Coal has been found in a bay on its
eastern shore.
The peninsula of Kou Island, which is connected with the more eastern land
'"' f > *
G08
THE COAST OP ALASKA.
'
i: !
i' !
by the last-mentioued narrow iathmus, it bj no means so high or mountainous
as the land composing the adjacent countries on the opposite or north-eastern
side of the sound, which at no great distance consists of very lofty, rugged,
dreary, barren mountains, covered with ice and snow.
Point Macartney, the N.E. point of Kiku Strait, is a large, roimding,
though not lofty promontory, in which are several small open bays, and near it
several detached rocks. From hence the shore of Kuprianoff Island trends
N.N.W. about 3^ miles, where the width of the sound is about 6 miles across
in a W.N.W. direction, to Point Nepean. From this station, North, 3 miles
distant, lies Povorotny Island, a small island, with patches of rock from this
point reaching nearly to its shores.
The promontory still takes a winding direction about N.E. 5 miles farther,
from whence the southern shore of the sound extends E. by N. ^ N. 17 miles,
to the West point of Ptrenosnaia Creek, the only opening in the shore from
Point Macartney. This cove extends S.E. about 3 miles, forming a narrow
isthmus, 2 miles across, from the head of Duncan Canal (p. 602), anot^'>r
striking instance of the extraordinary insular state of this region.
Point Gardner, as before mentioned, is the S.W. extreme of Admiralty
Island, and forms the N.W. point of the entrance to Prince Frederick Sound.
To the eastward of the point ore two anchorages, both bad in S.E. weather,
but good in northerly gales. The one nearest the point is. called Surprise
Harbour, and the eastern one Murder Cove, the Indians having murdered
some traders here. Uff the point, in an E.S.E. direction, lie some rocks and a
small island, Yasha ; the former at the distance of three-quarters of a mile,
and the latter 3 miles distant. The coast hence rounds irregularly to Point
Townsend, a distance of 11 miles ; off the intervening projecting points are
some rocks. At 6 miles N.E. by N. from this is Point Nepean, situated in lat.
570 10', long. 134° 3'. It is a high, steep, bluff, rocky point, and off it lies a
ledge of rocks about half a mile. At 3 miles to the North of it, on the eastern
side, is Woewodtki Harbour. From this the coast takes a more northerly
direction, or N. by E. lOJ miles, to Point Pybus ; the coast between is much
indented with small bays, and vast numbers of islets and rocks both above and
beneath the water. It is in general but moderately elevated ; and although it
is composed of a rocky substance, produces a very fine forest, chiefly of pine.
Northward of this is a large channel, called Stephens Passage. Prince Frederick
Sound continues to the eastward and south-eastward.
Cape Fanshaw, which is the point of the mainland opposite, and forming
the angle at which the two channels diverge, is low and projecting, but very
conspicuous ; in lat. 57° 11', long. 133° 25'. The branch is here 8 miles wide,
and its northern shore takes a course E. ^ N., 16 miles, to a low, narrow point
of land 2i miles long, and half a mile broad, stretching to the S.E. by S.,
called Point Vandeput. Here the breadth of the branch decreases to 3^ miles
in a South direction, to a steep bluff point ; from this part the branch takes a
|:
fathoms water in it, between Point Saginaw and the island. The approach
to this harbour from Hood Bay has some islets and rocks in it, and was not ex-
amined. On the East end of Kenaanow Island a trading post has lately be«n
erected.
SOOTZjef AHOO or KnahnoTi is an Indian settlement, about I J mile E.N.E.
of Danger Point. The tribe of Indians which gave it the name were about
800 in number, and had a bad reputation. Opposite the village is a large bank
of shoal water, separating it from the roads, and within this there is anchorage
in 12 fathoms off the village. Saginaw Point, li mile to S.E. by E., is the
proposed site of a fort.
Danger Point, the North point of the roads, has a reef extending about a
mile to N.W. of it, and is in lat. .57' 29' N., long. 134" 36' 50' W. Northward
of it is the entrance to a narrow but extensive inlet, wiiich runs in a N.N.E.
direction for about 12 miles, from which position a passage for canoes is re-
ported to exist into Seymour Channel, and thus separating Admiralty Island
into two peninsulas. This part is known as the Koohnahon Archipelago. In
the entrance of the channel, northward of Danger Point, theie is a depth of 10
fathoms, and about 4 miles within is Stillwater Anchorage. About 9 miles
above this, on the South shore, are some coal n\inefl.
At 3 miles N.W. of Diinger Point is Samuel Point, and at 7 miles farther is
Point Parker. The coast is indented into several small bays ; the shores are
low, and much divided by water. Beyond this, still following the same direc-
tion for 28 miles, is Point Martden, off which are some rocks. The land is
very moderately elevated, covered with fine timber, chiefly pine, and terminating
»t the wfltefside with alternate steep rocky cliffs and t-^
LYNN CHANNEL— WILLIAM HENRY HARBOUR.
C15
,i ^
and
ham
Couverden, and at low water the highest part was 7 or 8 ft. out of water. It
consisted of a series of detached rocks extending at least a quarter of a mile to
the eastward of the position occupied. A vessel must not approach this reef
nearer than a mile, for a strong 2 or 3-knot current sets right across it.
In the southern part of the inlet are several islands and islets. At the North
end of this group is Vanderlilt Reef, lying in mid-channel, which must have a
good berth given to it. It lies about 3 miles S. ^ E. from Bridget Point, the
South point of Berners Bay.
Favorite Channel leads to the S.E. by E. towards Stephens Passage. In
the course through this channel, entering from the northward and westward,
keep well over towards Point Bridget to clear Vanderbilt Reef, until a S.E. J S.
course will take you through in mid-channel between Lincoln and Sentinel
Islands. The sunken rock laid down on the old charts near Shelter Island, in
this channel, may exist, but Lieut. Symonds, U.S.S. Saginaw, passed at low
water very near, if not over its position, in a steamer drawing 11 ft. of water.
The channel was found to be clear until George Rock was reached. When
passing to the eastward of this rock, keep well over towards Spuhn Island
after passing Point Louisa. Fritz Cove, where there is anchorage, was de-
scribed on page 612.
Berners Bay is a large indentation on the eastern shore, about 4 miles across
in a S.S.E. direction, and about 5 miles deep to the northward. Point St.
Mary, in lat. 58° 42' N., forms the North point of the bay, and from thence
the eastern shore of the inlet trends in a compact manner to the N.W. by N.
William Henry Harbour.— At 7 miles W. by S. ^ S. of Point St. Mary,
and on the opposite side of the channel, is the eastern point of this excellent
harbour. To enter it, keep from one-half to three-quarters of a mile from the
western shore until abreast the entrance. This is necessary, as otherwise it is
very difficult to recognise the harbour. Strangers will be aided in finding it
by noting that the highest mountain in this vicinity, which has a rounded, bald
top, without trees, is just to the northward and westward of the entrance.
When the bay has opened well, head in for the inner part, and select a berth
at pleasure in from 9 to 13 fathoms, muddy bottom. Wood and water can be
obtained here. There is a wood depot on the West side of the bay. About
3£ miles N.W. by N. from the East point of the bay is Endicott River, the
mouth of which is filled with sand bars.
About 6 miles northward of Endicott River is the South end of Sullivan
Island, with an islet about half a mile off it. The channel between the island
and the western shore averages about \^ mile in width, but at its southern
end a shoal extends nearly from side to side. Sullivan Island is about <5
miles long and 1 mile broad, and northward of it the inlet diverges into two
branches.
Seduction Point is the South extremity of a peninsula, consisting of a narrow
J-^:?
m
. '•'-*.
; '.' V ■«
■■;J..
i's^^'ii-l
i t
I
I
616
THE COAST OF ALASKA.
strip of land, 1 or 2 miles across, dividing Chilcat and Chilooot Inlets. Reach-
ing for 2 miles S.E. of it are the Chilcat Islands.
CHILCAT INLET, the western arm, trends 11 mDes W.N.W. from Seduc-
tion Point, and then becomes blocked by flats, bare at low water, extending
from side to side. About midway up lies Veniosa Island, and 2 miles farther
on is Pyramid Islet in mid-channel, bare of trees, and sandy.
Pyramid Harbour, on the S.W. shore of the inlet, bears S. i W. from
Pyramid Islet. To reach it, when abreast Seduction Point keep about mid-
channel, giving the preference to the N.E. shore, as flats are said to make out
from the opposite side. After passing Ventosa Island, haul over for the western
shore, and you will be aided in recognising the harbour not only by Pyramid
Islet, but by the old bed of a glacier, which will appear like a sand-spit, just
to the southward of the anchorage. Haul in for the bight, and approach the
shore boldly, anchoring in from 11 to 15 fathoms, soft mud, excellent holding
ground. There is a village 4 miles above the harbour. — Master O. C. Nanus,
U.S.S. Jamestown, 1880.
A shorv; distance above Pyramid Island commence the flats and shoals in the
mouth of Chilcat River. In May, 1880, Lieut. McClellan, U.S.S. Jamestown,
searched ineffectually for several hours for a channel suitable for a launch
drawing about 3 ft. It is dangerous for any vessel to go beyond Pyramid Islet
without a local pilot. Above Pyramid Islet the water is perfectly fresh, and
from the edge of the shoal limiting the navigation the North shore is distant
3 miles, and through a small op eiiing a raoid stream of fresh water rushes over
the shoal.
Tondustek is an Indian village on the North shore of Chilcat Inlet, about 4
miles N.W. by N. of Pyramid Islet. When visited by Lieut. Symonds, U.S.S.
Jamestown, in 1880, the population amountv-ii to 171 Indians. The village is
on a wide, grassy, alluvial flat, having for its background a bold granite moun-
tain, whose precipitous peak was streaked in a remarkable manner by slides of
bright slaty granite, sand, and gravel.
Chilcat Elver. — Lieut. Symonds ascended this river in a canoe. After
leaving the village a course was shaped up the river against an opposing
current of at least 4 miles an hour.
The course from the village was S.W., and at 2 miles from it precipitous
wooded mountains, 2,000 ft. in height, rose on either hand. On the S.E. side
of the river are seen rugged and serrated mountain crests, covered with snow.
About 5 miles S.W. by S. from Tondustek, up the valley of a stream called
Takheen or Hindmost River, is the Bertha Glacier, resting on a southern
mountain slope, and reaching nearly to the surface of the river. At 2 j miles
farther on the course was altered to West, around Spuhn Point, where the
river is 1^ mile wide. Sand bars just awash were continually met, and the
average depth in the channel was only 2 ft.
T
V,
IJfc;
CIIILCAT RIVER— CniLCOOT INLET.
617
Above Vanderbill Point, which bears West 2J miles from Spuhn Point, the
mud and sand flats, which fill the lower part of the river, were left behind,
and numerous low flat islands were met with, covered with trees. The current
is rapid, and increases in proportion as the channel between the islands narrows,
running at times 5 or 6 miles an hour. The average width of the river was
here 1 mile. Kuthcutlit village, 6 miles above Vanderbilt Point, had a popu-
lation of 123 Indians. From Camp Point, half a mile S.E. of this village, the
North bank trends 3 miles to the \V. by N. to Chilcat Point and Klukquan
village, where the river is 2 miles wide, and was alive with salmon. The clifla
on the banks are about 2,000 ft. in height. The village contained a population
of 558 Indians.
Above this village is the Taheen or King Salmon River, which was enterod
after rounding Chilcat Point. Nearly AVest of Klukquan village is a point,
on which is Chilcat Peak, 4,000 ft. high, where the Taheen, flowing from
W.N.W., and the Klttheeny or Dog-salmon, from S.W. by W., meet.
From every indication on the banks of the Chilcat River, Lieut. Symonds
concludes that, during the spring and summer freshet.s, the river never rises
more than 2 ft. above its level in September, which rarely exceeds 3 ft. in the
deepest part of the main channel.
CHILCOOT INLET is the eastern arm from the head of Lynn Canal. It
trends about 13 miles N.W. from abreast Seduction Point, and varies from IJ
to 2.J miles in width, terminating in low land, formed immediately at the foot
of high stupendous mountains, broken into deep guUeys, and loaded with per-
petual ice and snow. Near its head, on the West shore, is Portage Bay, M'here
the N.W. Trading Company have established a station, so named from the
canoe-portage, IJ mile in length, across the low peninsula to Chilcat River,
'I'he trading post is about 2^ miles from Tondustek village, and a Presbyterian
Mission was proposed to be established here.
To reach Portage Bay, when abreast of Sullivan Island haul over for the
N.E. shore of Lynn Canal, keeping about mid-channel until you open the
bay. Keep about a quarter of a mile from the South shore of the bay, and
anchor near it in from 9 to 15 fathoms water, muddy bottom.
Above Portage Pay two rivers enter the head of the inlet. Degea River,
the western one, is shallow, and is the outlet of Chilcoot Lake. The village of
Tananei, having 127 inhabitants in 1880, is at the junction of the river and
lake, about 4 miles from Portage Boy, Tgya Inlet enters the eastern side of
the inlet, and extends in a northerly direction to a shallow river of the same
name. There is reported to be plenty of water and good holding ground in
Tyyii Inlet.
■^■5*
i> '
North Pacific.
4 K
h-"
1 1
I
i '
!l •
( CIS )
THE SITKA AECHIFELAOO.
The land forming this collection of islands, named by Vancouver King
Qeorge III. Archipelago, was first discovered by Alexoi Tschirikow, the second
in. command of the expedition under the unfortunate I3ehring, in 1741. This
was their third voyage, and they were separated by a storm soon after they
had set out on their voyage. Tschirikow directed his course to the East, from
the parallel of 48°, and, towards the middle of July, made the laid of America,
between the 55th and 56th parallels; but others place his landfall in 58°. The
coast which he found was steep, barren, guarded by rocks, and without a single
island that could afford shelter. He anchored off the coast, and detached his
long-boat, with orders to put on shore wherever she could land. Several days
elapsing without her reappearing, he despatched his other boat to gain tidings
of her, but the latter no doubt experienced the same fate as the former, and it
is unknown what became of either. Some canoes, manned by native Americans,
presented themselves a few days after, to reconnoitre the ship, but they durst
not approach her, and there remained on board no boat of any sort that could
be detached to join or pursue them, and prevail on them to come to the ship,
where they would have been detained for hostages. Tschirikow, despairing to
see again the men whom he had scut on shore, resolved to quit the coast, and
accordingly returned to Kamchatka. These discoveries became known to
France and Europe from the fact of Dclisle de la Croyere, one of the brothers
of the French savans, and Dr. Stoller, the naturalist, having accompanied
Tschirikow. Such was the first authentic discovery of North-West America,
which arose out of the original plans projected by Peter the Great, and subse-
quently carried into effect by the Empress Catharine. It has since been called
the Sitka Archipelago, from the tribe of Indians who inhabit it.
The lond in question, like Vancouver Island and others to the southward, was
then supposed to form part of the American continent ; and it was not until
Vancouver's expedition that Chatham Strait was discovered, and thus showed
the real nature of the land on the Pacific. Vancouver, too, as will be seen from
the preceding remarks, did not very minutely examine the western shore of the
strait to which he gave the name of his vessel, but just inferred that it was
penetrated by one or more channels leading to the open ocean, from the fact of
some of the natives being found in the strait who belonged to the other side of
the islands.
Capt. Urey Lisiansky, of the Russian navy, examined the group in 1805,
and, by his survey, it appears that it consists of four principal islands, viz.,
Jaccobi, Kruzoff or Croozc, Baranoff, and Chichagoff.
Although Vancouver examined the channels to the eastward of it, and the
Russians and Americans have surveyed, partially, the western coast of the
THE SITKA ARCHIPELAGO.
619
chief island, yet our acquaintance with its physical characteristics is still very
limited.
BARANOFF ISLAND is the southernmost, and is ahout 85 miles in length,
by about 20 miles in its maximum breadth. On its West side is Sitka or
Norfolk Sound, the principal place of resort in these seas, and the situation of
the head-quarters of the former Imperial Russian Company, and now a settle-
ment of the United States.
KBUZOFF or rrooze Island, the South extremity of which is formed by
Cape and Mount Edgcumbc, lies before Sitka Sound, and was so named by
Capt. Lisiansky, after the Russian Admiral. It is 18i miles in length, and
separated from BaranofF Island by Neva Channel. At its North extreme is
Klokachcvn Sound, Olga Gulf, or tlic Bay of Islands, which leads to Pogibshi
Channel, separating the two principal islands of the group, called by Lisiansky
Pagoohnoy or Pernicious Strait. It joins Chatham Sound, is deep, and derives
its name from a party of Aleutians having been poisoned there some years pre-
viously by eating mussels. Kruzoff Island is called Pitt Island in La Perouse's
and some other early charts.
CHICHAOOFF ISLAND is the next and northernmost large island, and is
about 60 miles in length. It is divided from Baranoif Island by the strait pre-
viously mentioned, and extends from it to Cross Soimd, which separates it from
the continent to the northward.
Jacobi Island, the fourth of those described by Lisiansky, lies at the N. W.
extremity of Chichagoff Island, and is about 10 miles in length. The narrow
passnge separating them was not explored by Lisiansky.
These islands are all well wooded, chiefly pine, larch, and cedar. The rivers
abound in excellent fish, and herrings swarm in the sounds every spring, with
fine cod and halibut at all seasons. The climate allows the growth of European
grain and vegetables, the summer being warm. The natives aro described as
brave, but extremely cruel.
CAPE OMMANEY, in lat 56° 10', long. 134° 33', is the South extreme of
the archipelago, and off it lies Wooden Rock. They have been alluded to before,
on page 612, as forming the S.W. entrance point of Chatham Strait.
Port Conclusion, — At 6 miles N. i W. from Cape Oramaney, on the eastern
coast of Baranoff Island, is the southern point of the entrance to Port Conclu-
sion, so called because it was here that Vancouver's vessels awaited the con-
clusion of the survey of this coast in August, 1794, having left England on the
1st of April, 1791, for that service. The North point of Port Conclusion bears
from the southern N.W. 2 miles distiint, and the depth of water in mid-channel,
between them, is 75 fathoms, but decreasing to 8 or 10 fathoms close to the
shores, without rocks or sands, except near the points. From its entrance to
its head the port extends about 3 miles South, free from any interruption,
although it is inconvenient from its great depth of water. The soundings cannot
be considered as very regular, yet in general they are good, in some places
'M
:.m
•^M
•>*■]
I
'iii:
li
:j
'1, '
II
■
1
i
1
1
^
I ■
620
THE SITKA ARCHIPELAGO.
stony, in others snnd and mud ; but in the cove, where the vessels were «t
anchor, 1 1 mile within the South point on the other side, the bottom is rocky.
The head of this cove approaches within one-fourth of a mile of the head of
Port Alexander, another cove, whose entrance on the outside is about 2 miles
to the South of the South point of the harboiir, and has a depth of 7 fathoms
in it, with weeds growing across.
Port Armstrong, about half a mile S.W. from the North point of entrance, is
a most excellent and snug basin, about a mile long, and a third of a mile wide ;
but its entrance is by a very narrow but deep channel, half a mile in length, in a
S.W. direction, with some islets and rocks lying off its South points ; these are
steep, nearly close to them, as are the shores on both sides, which vary from n
sixth to a twelfth of a mile asunder, with a clear navigable passage from 8 to
12 fathoms deep in the middle, and 5 fathoms on the sides. The soundings
are tolerably regular in the basin, from 30 fathoms in the middle to 10 fathoms
close to the shores. Immediately within its North point is a fine sandy beach,
and an excellent run of water, as is the case also at its head.
The western shore of Chatham Strait was not minutely surveyed by Van-
couver's party. It follows a ncai-ly straight direction from Port Conclusion,
about N.W. i N. for 105 miles to Point Augusta, in lat. 58° Sf, long. 134° 58J',
preserving a nearly parallel direction to the opposite side, which varies from 5
to 9 miles distant.
This extensive arm, as far as was ascertained, is very free from danger, and
probably affords many places of refuge. The flood tide, although of short
duration, running not more than two hours, was regularly observed to come
from the South.* To the northward of Point Augusta the western shore
diverges more to the westward, while the eastern side beyond Port Marsden
still preserves tho same direction. Into the opening thus formed a peninsula
of the mainland projects to the southward, thus dividing it into two channels,
the principal being to the N.W., while that which continues on in a North or
West course is called Lynn Canal, previously described.
At 37 miles below Point Augusta is the entrance of Pogibshi Channel, on
the North side of which some reefs extend a long distance from the shore, and
are described hereafter. Siwash Channel, 17 miles below Point Augusta, is
said to be only navigable for canoes ; just to the northward of its entrance is a
* Mr. Whidbey considered that Chatham Strait was likely to be one of the most profit-
able places for procuring the skins of the sea-otter on the whole coast, not only from the
abundance observed in the possession of the natives, but from the immcnso numbers of
these animals scon about the shores in all directions. Here the aea-otters were in such
plenty thnt it was easily in the power of the natives to procure oa many as they chose to
be at the trouble of taking. They were also of extremely fine quality. — (Vancouver, vol,
iii, p. 264). Commander Muade, U.S.S. Saginaw, reports that in 1869 the otters had dis«
appeared from this strait.
POINT COUVERDEN— CROSS SOUND.
ftdl
large opening named Freihwaler Bai/, on the West side of which is Wachuaett
Cove, with a depth of 9 fathoms in it. '
Point Converden, the South extremity of the above peninsula, is in Int.
58° 12', long. 135" 4', and was so named after the seat of Vancouver's ancestors
in Holland. The continental shore in this neighbourhood constitutes a nan'ow
border of low land, well wooded with stately trees, chiefly of the pine tribe,
behind which extends a continuation of the lofty snowy mountains. About
half a mile S.E. of Point Couvcrden is an islet, and IJ mile N. by W. of the
point is one small island, the outermost of three or four rocky islets extending
in a line from the shore. Beyond this the western shore of the arm is firm and
compact, indented with a few coves, and some islets and rocks lying near it.
The eastern shore, described on pp. 614—615, presents a broken appearance.
Hanus Reef, 3 miles S.E. by E. J E. from Point Couverden, was also there
described.
Swanson Harbour, about 3 miles westward of Point Couverden, is sheltered
by Anslcy Island. It can only be entered from the East, the course from the
rocky islet off Point Couverden being about West. Off the S.E. point of
Entrance Island, which lies off the East end of Anslcy Island, a reef makes off
a quarter of a mile or more ; after passing these, steer about West for the
centre of the inner end of the harbour, and anchor opposite the western entrance
in from 8 to 10 fathoms, soft, sticky bottom. There is a passage between
Swanson Harbour and Lynn Canal, but this was not examined owing to the
short stay of the party from the U.S.S. Jamestown, 1880. " Sitka Jack," an
Indian chief, has a summer settlement here, and there is also a dep6t for wood.
CROSS SOUND. — From Point Couverden the continental shore takes a
somewhat irregular direction, W. by N., 20 miles, to a point off which lies a
low island, about 6 miles in circuit, with some islets extending about 4 miles
eastward of it, together named Pleasant or Porpoise Islands. All this shore is
reported by pilots to be foul for a distance of from 1 to 1^ mile from shore ; the
Indians, however, report that there are several safe anchorages.
The southern shore of this portion of the strait is of a more broken character
than the northern. From Point Augusta to Point Sophia, 15 miles to the
West, the coast is composed chiefly of rocky cliffs, with islets and detached
rocks lying at some distance from the shore. About midway between is
Spaskaii Harbour, a small cove, and at 2^ to 3 miles N. by E. J E. from Point
Sophia are the Sister Islands, nearly in mid-channel, with a reef, uncovering
at low water, a quarter of a mile off the South end of the eastern island.
Port Frederick. — Point Sophia is on the East side of the entrance to this
port, which is about 3 miles in width East and West, and thence extending
to the southward. On its eastern side is Hoonyah Harbour, which was visited
by the U.S.S. Jamestown, in 1880, and her officers give the following informa*
ion.
Halibut Rock, uncovering at low water, lies S.E. by S. ^ S. from the inner
••J
r"'
s
I I
■; *
622
THE SITKA ARCHIPELAGO.
island on the western side of the entrance to the port, distant about two-
thirds of a mile.
To reach Hoonyah Harbour, after passing Point Sophia, a vessel can safely
hug the eastern shore, till up with Entrance Point, a high red bluff, on the
N.W. side of the harbour, with a pinnacle rock close off it. After this is passed,
steer to pass between Pitt Island, a low island covered with trees, and the
eastern shore, and anchor in about 8 fathoms off the Indian village. The
holding ground is excellent, being sticky mud.
About half a mile southward of Pitt Island is Green Island, lying off the
North side of a larger island named Long Island. Between this ond False Point,
3 cables to the N.E., is the entrance of n narrow channel, nt the head of which
is a narrow portage to the upper part of Siwash or Tenakce Channel, commu-
nicating with Chatham Strait, but which is navigable for canoes only.
From the West side of Port Frederick the shore takes a W.N.W. direction,
7 or 8 miles, Avith some islets near it, to Point Adolphus, the North extreme of
the Sitka or King George Archipelago, in lat. 58° 18'.
OLACIEB BAY. — This large sheet of water, which was visited by Mr.
Hanus, US.S. Jamestown, lies N.W. of Point Adolphus, and extends in the
same direction for many miles, terminating at its head in some immense glaciers,
rising perpendicularly from the water's edge, and bounded to the North by a
continuation of the united lofty frozen mountains that extend eastward from
Mount Fairweather. At its southern end is a large group of islets, named
Sand or Deardslee Islands, extending in a north-westerly direction up the
centre of the bay for about 15 miles, many of them being high, and covered
with timber. It is reported that there are deep channels and safe anchorages
among them.
To enter this bay from Cross Sound , when about 2 miles from Lemcsuricr
Island steer about W.N.W. until you enter the bay, and then steer about
W. by N., or for Willoughby Island, a high island, about 5 or 6 miles long,
lying near the southern shore of the bay, at about 12 or 13 miles from its
entrance. In entering through the channel North of Lemesuricr Island, when
near the point where the waters of Cross Sound unite with those of Glacier
Bay, it will be necessary to give the northern shore a wide berth, for at this
point, which is low, a sand-spit makes out about 1^ mile from the land. In
running up to the inlet near Willoughby Island, no bottom was found at 16
fathoms, at a distance of from three-quarters to 1^ mile from the South shore.
Before entering Glacier Bay strong tidal currents or eddies will be encoun-
tered, especially to the northward and eastward of Lemesuricr Island, and this
part of Cross Sound is exceedingly dangerous for sailing vessels, since there is
much thick weather and ice in this vicinity. The tide here runs at least 3
knots an hour.
From Point Adolphus the South side of Cross Sound takes an irregular S.W.
direction, 17 miles, to ^'oint Lavinia, containing many open bays. In the
S,
CROSS SOUND— LEMESUIIIER ISLAND.
623
■cconcl bight westward of Point Adolphus there is anchorage in? to 15 fathoms,
8oft mud, said to be secure from all but north-westerly winds. Some sunken
rocks lie near the shore hereabout.
From hence the land makes awaj *o tlie southward, forming a large bigh^
named Mud Bay, the southern shore of which has the appearance of an immense
sand spit. In entering from the N.E. the western shore will appear like a
group of islands, llicre is an immense mud-flat, with soundings varying from
4 to 7 fathoms, about three-quarters of a mile to the eastward of the West
shore of the bay, and 6 fathoms, mud bottom, was found about three-quarters
of a mile from Goose Island, which lies just southward of a point appearing
to be the outer island. The holding ground is excellent.
Lemesarier Island, — About 7 miles W. by S. of Point Adolphus is the
N.E. end of this island, which thence extends 6J miles S.W. by S. ^ S.,
moderately high, and covered with timber. Reefs lie off nearly all the points
on its S.E. side ; off Iceberg Point a dangerous reef uncovers for about one-
quarter of a mile from the shore at low water, and in rough weather is said to
break at least another quarter of a mile farther nut.
About midway on the southern shore of the island is a deep bight, known as
Willoughhy Cove, where a small vessel can find an anchorage in 8 to 1 4 fathoms,
muddy bottom, excellent holding-ground. The cove is open from S.E. to
N.N.E., and a very strong current sets by just outside, which creates strong
eddies, bringing icebergs in dangerous proximity to a vessel anchored too fur
out.
Dundas Bay. — On the North side of Lemesurier Island is a channel 3 to 4
miles wide between it and the continental shore. The N.W. point of this
channel is Point Dundas, in lat. SB'' 20', long. 136" 9', and westward of this
point is a branch extending to the North and westward. At about 6 miles up
it the channel is nearly stopped by shoals, rocky islets, and rocks, 4 miles
beyond which it is finally closed, being in most places greatly encumbered
with ice. The entrance, which is about 1 or 1} mile wide between Points
Dundas and Wimbledon, has, in mid-channel, only 18 fathoms water. About
the entrance the soundings are regular, of a moderate depth, and afford good
and secure anchorage ; but in the summer season (or in July) vessels would be
much inconvenienced by the immense quantities of floating ice.
On the opposite shore of the sound is Point Lavinia, previously mentioned,
bearing S.E. i E., 6 miles from it. Retween these points is a group of one low
and two high rocky islands, with some rocks and islets about them, together
occupying the greater part of the channel.
Port Althorp is to the westward of Point Lavinia, and extends 11 miles
S.E. by E. of it. Its South point of entrance is Point Lucan, off which, in a
direction about N.W. by W., lies a narrow, high island, about 2 miles in length,
named Three Hill Island, the central hill being about 1,300 ft. high. Retween
the S.E. point of this island and Point Lucan there are two small islets and
lif
I
n
1 I
1'
LI
624
THE SITKA ARCHIPELAGO.
some rocks, which render that passage not to commodious for sailing in and
out of the port as that to the North of the island, between it and the western
part of a cluster of three small islands, which extend about 2 miles from the
eastern side of the port. This channel is clear, free from danger except close
to the islands, and is about 1^ mile in width, with Granite Cove, a tolerably
snug cove in which Vancouver anchored, just within its N.W. point of entrance,
on the South side of George Island,
Three Hill Island affords great protection to the northern part of this port,
which, opposite to that island, is about 2^ miles wide ; but nearly in the middle
of the harbour, and opposite the South point of the island, arc some detached
rocks ; and at Point Lucan, which is situated 4 miles S.E. of Granite Cove, the
width of the harbour is 2 miles, from whrnce it extends E.S.E., about 6 miles,
and terminates in a basin affording good and secure anchorage, the best passage
into which is on the eastern shore.
CAFE SPENCEB, the outer North point of the entrance of Cross Sound,
on the Pacific Ocean, is a very conspicuous, high, blutf promontory, off which
rocks are stated to extend for about 1^ mile. It is in lat. 58" 13', long. 136° 27',
and bears from Point "Wimbledon S. by W. | W., distant 9 miles. To the
West of Point Wimbledon the main land terminates in steep, rugged, rocky
cliffs, off which, at a little distance, are some rocky islands. The bay, extend-
ing to the W.N.W. between these points, was occupied by an icy barrier ond
a great quantity of floating ice (in July, 1794), rendering the navigation across
it very difficult ond tedions. The head of the bay, which decreases to 3 miles
in width, is formed by a range of lofty mountains, connected with which is ar
immense body of compact per{)endicular ice, extending from shore to shore.
In the upper part of the eastern side the shores are composed of a border of low
land, which, on high tides, is overflown, and becomes broken into islands.
CROSS SOUND, or Icy Strait, was discovered by Capt. Cook, in his last
voyage, on Sunday, May 3rd, 1778, and was named by him from the day marked
in the calendar. Its existence was denied by some after its original discovery,
but the survey of it proves that Cook's description is much more accurate than,
from the transitory distant view he had of it, might have been reasonably ex-
pected. Its eastern limits may be placed at Points Lavinia and Wimbledon,
which have been previously described. From seaward it appears to branch
into many openings. Its southern shore, from Point Lucan to Point Bingham,
which is opposite to Cape Spencer, trends S.S.W., 10 miles, and about mid-
way between these points Lisiansly Strait takes a S.E. by E. direction for
about 7 miles, and then turns to the S.W., where it is reported to communicate
with the ocean, thus insulating Jacobi Island.
Point Bingham, which lies S.E. by S. i S., 11 miles, from Cape Spencer,
affords a bold entrance into the sound, witb.out rock, shoal, or any permanent
obstacle. The group of rocky islands noticed as existing to the S.E. of Point
Wimbledon, form a kind of termination to Cross Sound, and almost separate
CROSS SOUND— CAPE CROSS.
025
the ocean from Chatham Strait, to the eastward of it ; but on cither sido of
these islands thern arc two narrow channels, both of which arc free from rockii,
shoals, or any other impediment, excepting the large masses of floating ice,
which render them very dangerous in the summer season, and in the winter
they are most probobly entirely closed or impassable.
' Every part of Cross Sound appears to be free from any rock, shoal, or per-
manent obstacle ; and if it does possess any navigable objection, it is the un-
fathomable depth which everywhere exists, excepting very near the shores,
olong which, in many places, are dctnohed rocks ; these, however, lie out of
the way of its navigation, and are sufficiently conspicuous to be avoided.
The unfortunate La Perouse touched on this part of the coast, previous to his
departure for the West, in 1786. He makes the following remarks upon it : ~
At Cross Sound the high mountains covered with snow terminate, the peaks of
which are 8,000 or 9,000 ft. high. The country bordering on the sea, S.E. of
Cross Sound, although elevated 5,000 or 6,000 ft., is covered with trees to the
summit, and the chain of primitive mountains seems to penetrate farther into
the continent. Mount Crillon, about as elevated as Mount Fairweather, is to
the North of Cross Sound, in the same way that Mount Fairweather is to the
North of the Baie des Franjais ; they will servo to point out the ports they
are near to. The one may be readily mistaken for the other, in coming from
the South, if the latitude should not bo correct viuiin 15'. Otherwise, from
nil points. Mount Fnirweother appears accompanied by two mountains, less
elevated ; and Mount Crillon, more isolated, has its peak inclined towaids the
South.
CAFE CROSS, which was considered by Cook as forming the S.E. point of
entrance to the sound, is not precisely so, but lies about 5 miles S.E. by S. J S.
from Point Bingham, which forms the true S.E. point. The interior part is
a low rocky land, free from any danger, but off the cape rocks extend for a
distance of about a mile.
From Cape Cross the coast takes a direction of S.E. by E., about 22J^ miles,
to another promontory, to which Vancouver gave the name of Cape Edward,
and off which lies a cluster of small islets and rocks. The coast between these
capes is much broken, and has several openings in it which appear likely to
afford shelter, but the vast number of rocks and small islets, which extend to
the distance of 3 or 4 miles from the shore, will render the entering of such
harbours unpleasant and dangerous, until a more competent knowledge of their
several situations may be better acquired. That which appeared to Vancouver
to be the easiest of access lies about 6 miles to the N.W. of Cape Edward, and
as it is in lat. 67° 44', he was led to conclude that this opening was Portlock
Harbour.
Portlock Harbour. — About 2 miles from the shore, to the N.W. of the
opening, we had 20 and 25 fathoms water, muddy bottom, and just within the
North Pacific, 4 i.
pi;. ■ ■
1 »*
.i'l
I
f l
.
! s
■ s
f (
!■ I
I'M
i I
hi
' i »
■ I.
lii
i
1
*
■1
696
TIIK SITKA ARCIIIPKLAGO.
entrance were sonic high barren rocks. On getting into the entrance of the
passage, which is ubuiit a mile across, we deepened the water to 30 ftithonis,
sandy bottom, the barren rocks just mentioned (and Ilogan Ishind) forming
the South side ; the northern side is Hill Ishind, low land. About half a mile
within the barren rocks we had 30 fathoms over a rocky bottom, which dei)th
and bottom we carried at least a mile farther, steering N.l'I. by E., which is
nearly the course into the harbour. Presently afterwards we shoaled the water
to 10 fathoms, being then in the narrowest part of the channel, not more than
half a mile across, having to the North some bold rocks, and to the South n
bluir point of land ; to the Kast of M'hich, a small distance from shore, are some
rocks which just show themselves above water. Immediately on passing tliese
rocks we deepened the water very quickly to 30 and 10 fathoms, and a most
spacious and excellent harbour opened itself to our view, bending to the N.W.
and S.E., and running deep in to the northward, with a number of small
islands scattered about. We ran up towards the N.W. part of the harbour, and
after passing a small island near the North shore, covered with trees, wo an-
chored in 31 fathoms, mud, entirely landlocked, the roulrs lying in the inner
part of tho passage, just shut in with the small island alrea^'y mentioned, and
bt-aring South, 3 or 4 miles distant. — Portlock, pp. 257-8.
(louldiny Harbour is a branch of Portlock Harbour, extending from its N.W.
part. It runs in a zig-zag direction, between North and N.K,, about 5 miles,
to the head of it, from the island in the entrance. It appears navigable for at
least 4 miles up for vessels of any size, and there are a number of small islands,
covered with trees, scattered about in various parts. Wooding and watering
are performed with facility.
KLOKACHEVA SOUND, or Olga Gulf.— From Cape Edward the coast
takes a direction about E. by S. i S. to this very conspicuous opening, named
by Capt. Cook the Hay of Islands. lie rightly considered that it was the en-
tronce to a channel which separated the land, on which Mount I'Idgcunibe is
jituated, from the adjacent shores. It is also the entrance to Peril Strait and
Pogibshi Channel, separating the two principal islands of the Sitka Archipelago.
The names given by Cook and others arc now forgotten, and the liussian charts
of 1848 and 1853 give Kussian names to all the points. Master G. C. Hanus,
U.S.S. Jamestown, 1880, gives some of the following information.
The entrance of the sound is about 4 miles wide between Klokachcva Island
on the North, and Sloucht Point, the N.W. point of Kruzo" Island, on tho
South. From hence it extends, with very deep water, 5 miles to N.E. by E.,
with some islets and rocks oil" both shores, and then it branches olT into two
channels, to the N.N.E. and S.E. by E. About a mile within the entrance of
the southern channel is the North end of Partovshikov Island, which thence
extends miles, leaving only a narrow channel on each side of it, leading to
the North end of Sitka Sound, Soukoi Inlet, to the West, being blocked by
Bhoal water at its South end.
KLOKACIIKVA SOUND— rOaiBSIII CHANNEL.
t-i^r
Nevski Strait. — Kan Islets lie in mid-channol off tlio northern side of
Pnrtovshikov IhIiuhI, iind Commander Coghlan, U.S.N., 1884, rcportN Uiat a
rcof lies 1 cable oil" the opposite coast, bearing N. J W. from the inlefs.
IJoyond this the inlet extends 22 miles East to the head of Baptist flisi,, in
which the water shoals gradually from 37 fathoms within its entrance to t>
fathoms at its head.
Ik'twccn Kan Islets and Baptist Bay the inlet is about half a mile wide. At
midway between, Nevski Strait branches off to S.K. J M. for 4 miles, and is
considerably narrower, the shores for the most part being lined *'iih stinken
rocks. Near its southern end is Whilvstonv Narrows, where f*.e channel,
liaving a depth of T) to 8 fathoms, becomes very narrow, bciii;^ coiifmed close
to the eastern shore by a bed of sunken rocks and kelp extending from the West
coast, having a rocky islet, named the Whitestone, on its 'A.V.. edge. Here the
flood tide comes from the northward.
Vessels entering Klokaeheva Sound should keep near the middle of the
entrance, until close up to the high bluffs of liaranofT Island, when, if wishing
to pass through Nevski Strait, there is a deep but narrow channel between
Kan Islets and the eastern shore. After this, keep about mid-channel, and
when entering Whitestonc Narrows avoid a sand-spit extending from the eastern
shore, and leave the edge of the kelp on the starboard hand.
Fogibshi Channel ( Peril Strait) is a winding channel, with numerous islets
and rocks in it, separating Chichagofl' and IJaranoff Islands. Its entrance from
the N.K. part of Klokaeheva Sound is half a mile wide, opening within to n
large bay on its Mast side, named liuhia or Fish Hay. On the northern side of
this bay, about 'i\ miles from the entrance of the channel, is Schulze Cove, fice
from .nil visible dangers. The llnssian steamers formerly used this cove as a
shelter from S.l-',. gales, anchoring just t miles East to Chatham Strait, having
a group of islands on the South side of its entrance. About 2 cables S. by E.
of the eastern point of the anchorage, known on the charts as Lindenbery B»
a few hundred yards outside of them. At 2 miles N.W. by N. of Point Graven
is I'oitit Hayes, close off which is an islet, and a very dangerous reef extends
1 or IJ mile to E. by S., the outer part of the reef consisting of numerous
detached rocks, many showing at low water. About 1 mile northward of thi.''
2)oint another reef makes out from the shor'^, and runs towards Morris Reef.
Eussian pilots state that this point should not be approached closer than 1 ^ mile.
From Siouchi Point, the South entrance point of Klokacheva Sound, the
coast of Kruzov Inland extends 17 miles S.E. by S. i S. to Cape Edgcumbc,
and nearly midway between them is Shelikora Bay, named Port Mary by
Vaficouvcr, presenting the appearance of a good harbour.
CAPE EDGCUMBE, Uie S.W. pointofKru/off Island, the Cabo del Engano
of the Spanish charts of Maurellc, is low land, covered with trees, projecting
considerably into the sea, in iat. 57^ 0' 15", long. 13.5° 461'.
Mount EdgOTUlbd, which stands on the South end of the island, inland of
the cape of the same uamc, is the Mount San Jacinto of the Spanish charts. It
was estimated by Lisiansky, who ascended it, to be about 8,000 ft. in height ;
on the last Hussion chart it is ««id to be only 2,800 ft., a remarkable difference.
The side toward chc sen is steep, and was covered with snow (in July, 1805);
that towards the .my (to the southward) is smooth, and cf gradual ascent, and
overgi'own with woods to within 1 J mile of the top. Thio upper space exhibits
a few patches of verdure, but i» in gcnerfjl covered with stones of different
colours. On the sumii) ' ^ bisin, or crater, about 2 miles in oircunrfe/ence,
and 40 fathoms deep, tli' o covered with snow.
SITKA SOUVD. The nam'' io that o# the natives, who call themselves
Sitko.-hani. It is probably the nvetut as that called by the Spaniards, Baya
I'^i •' fl
SITKA SOUND.
629
I
de Gtiadah/pa. It is also called Tchinkitdnay Bay by Marchancl and other
authors. The nanio of Norfolk Sound was applied to it by Dixon, whose in-
dustry first made known its real character ; he anchored, probably, in the first
cove round Cape Edgcumbe, and did not penetrate to the eastward, to where
the Russian establishment was afterwards founded. The charts and descrip •
tious of this period are so imperfect that they would probably rather tend to
mislead than instruct.
The coast of Sitka Kay is fronted by many steep rocks, and the neighbouring
waters thickly sprinkled with rocks, and little rocky islands overgrown with
wood, wliich arc a protection against tlie storms, and present a strong wall of
defence against the waves.
A bold, enterprising man, of the name of Baranoff, long superintended the
Russian Company's establishment. Although the conquest of the Sitkaeus
(Sitka-hans), a branch of the Kaloschiansor Kalushes, was not easily achieved,
he finally accomplished it. A warlike, courageous, and cruel race, provided
with fire-arms by the ships of the North American United States in exchange
for otter-skins, they maintained an obstinate struggle against the invaders;
but Bari.;>.;t! ..!• length obtained a decisive superiority over them. lie built
some dwehiiig-houses, made an intrenchment, and having, in his own opinion,
appeased the Kalushes by profuse presents, confided the new conquest to a
small number of Russians and Aleutians. For a short time matters went on
prosperously, wiien suddenly the garrison left by Baranoff, believing itself iu
perfect safety, was attacked by great numbers of Kalushes, who entered the
intrenchments without opposition, and murdered all they met with there with
circumstances of atrocious cruelty. A few Aleutians only escaped to Kodiak,
where tbey brought the news of the destruction of Sitka. This took place in
180 1, at the period that Admiral Krusenstern made his voyage round the world,
and his second siiip, the Neva, was bound for the colony. UaranofF took
advantage of this, and with three armed vessels he accompanied the N':va to
Sitka. The Kalushes retired at his ajiproach to their fortifications, and attempted
to maintain a sie^c, but the guns from the ships soon caused a speedy surrender.
Thej were allowed to retire unmolested, but they stole away secretly on a dark
night, after murdering all of their party who might have been an encumbrance
to them. Baranoff thus became nominally possessed of the island, but in
reality of u hill forming a natural fortification, and formerly inhabited by a
Kalush chief called Katelun.
Since the occupation of Sitka by the United States authorities, the ap-
proaches to the harbour have been examined, chiefly by Lieut. F. M. Symonds,
U.S.S. JamenloH-n, in 187'.»-80, from wh^fc survey the following description is
principally derived. Some information, also, has been obtained from a Report
by Mr. O. Davidson, made in 1807.
Sitka Sound is 12 miles wide at the entrance between Cape Edgcumbe and
Sitka Foint, and the N.W. point of Biorka Island the Point Wodclioust of
W r^'
wn
■
■■'■ I
If
r
,«<>
I
II
i'
i' ::
1 i ^-
L li
680
THE SITKA ARCHIPELAGO.
V.ancouver) to tlic E. by S. From Cape Edgcumbe tbc North shore runs
N.E. ^ E., 7 Jiiilcs, to Etmoloi or Shoah Point, nearly a mile E.N.E. of which
lie Low Island and rocks. Nearly midway between these points, and IJ mile
oflf shore, lies St. Lazara or Cape Island, moderately high, and wooded.
Biorka Island, on the South side of the entrance, is about 2 miles in length,
densely covered with trees and tall grass, and is the outermost of a labyrinth
of islands which extend many miles to the eastward. Several islets and rocks
lie off its shores, and the passage eastward of it is studded with sxmken rocks,
and is therefore dangerous. At more than half u mile S.E. by S. i S. from
the South extreme of the island, or one-third of a mile from Neprop, an islet
otf it, is the dangerous sunken Vasileva Hock. A still more important danger,
which will require all caution in entering the sound and making for the settle-
ment, is a sunken rock, with only 10 ft. at low water, only breaking occasion-
ally, and lying 2 miles S.W. by W. ^ W. from the N.W. point of Biorka.
The channel between this danger and the island is clear, and the western shore
of the island is bluff.
Symonds Bay, on the North side of Biorka Island, near its East end, has
good anchorage, and was named after the U.S. surveyor. On the AVcst side
of the entrance is Entrance Island, a barren rock, 50 yards in diameter, and
46 ft, high, an excellent mark. Ilanus Island, the eastern entrance point, is
covered with trees on its western side, and w.-xs named after another U.S.
surveyor.
The approaches to the bay arc free from dangers, with the exception of the
rocky patch to the westward of Biorka Island, and it is only necessary to
avoid the kelp patches. The first kelp patch on entering is on the western
side of the bay, and marks a rock with but 2 ft. water over it at low tide, the
only danger in the bay. In entering, ii.void the kelp patch northward of Ilanus
Island, and give the island a berth of 200 yards to the westward, then head
for the white snnd-beach at the head of the bay, the centre of which will bear
about S.S.E. Anchor in 7 fathoms, avoiding the kelp; the holding ground is
good, and the anchorage is sheltered against all winds except those between
W.N-W. and N. by E. Fresh water and wood may be had in abundance. It
is high water here, on fidl and change, at O** 24"" ; springs range 9 to 10 ft.
Within Biorka Island the South shore of the sound is formed by innumerable
rocks and low wooded islets, and the coast is indented bv large bays. The
outermost rocks appear to be the Vastlavha, 5J miles North of the N.W. end
of Biorka Island, and lying some distance off the low islands inside; the sea
breaks upon some o^^ them.
Betwc .'n Otmelo' Point and Bouronov Point, to E. by N. J N., Sitka Sound
becomes contracted to a width of 7J miles, havivg several islets and groups of
rocks on this line, the channel invariably used by the Russians being that be-
tween Vitskari Island and Kulich Rock, about 2 miles apart E. by N. i N.
and W. by S. i S. Vitskari Island, 7 miles to the N.N.W. of the N.W. point
lia
SITKA SOUND.
631
of Biorka, is very low and small, and on it is a conical stone beacon, the summit
of which is 41 ft. above high water. The reef, marked on the British Admiralty
chart an extending nearly a mile to N.E. by E. J E., is stated not to exist, but
three clumps of rocks, about a quarter of a mile apart, have been observed to
the N.W. of the island. Kulich Hock is stated to be about 20 ft. high, with
deep water and dangerous sunken rocks between it and the islets off Bouronoff
Point, lleefs awash lie about one-third of a mile N.N.VV. and southward of it.
"Within this the settlement is fronted by an intricate range of scattered islets
an'l rocks, between which there are three principal channels to the harbour,
which should only be entered ynder the guidance of a ' lot, or with good local
knowledge. Any detailed description is unnecessary, as .ae chart derived from
the late U.S. survey will be the best g^'ide. Directions aic given hereafter for
the approaches.
Commander R. W. Meade, U.S.S. Sufftnaw, 18G8, states that in fine weather
pilots may readily be procured, the charge for men-of-war being 4 dollars per
foot, the pilot taking the ship outside of Biorka Island or C!ape Edgeumbe.
The outer most conspicuous island is named Mukhnati, about 30 ft. high,
and covered with a thick growth of spruce. On its summit is a pyramid beacon,
formed of heavy logs, the summit being 72 ft. above high water, and bearing
about S.W. J S., nearly 5 miles, from Vitskari beacon. A dangerous rock,
with 9 ft. water over it, lies about 2^ cables S.S.AV. of its East point.
The Eastern Channel to the harbour is the widest and safest, the Middle and
Western Channels being narrow and somewhat tortuous. On the South side
of the entrance, which is two-thirds of a mile wide, are a group of islets and
rocks, near the middle of which, on Echhohn Islet, a beacon has been erected,
its summit 72 ft. above high water, and similar to that on ^lakhnati. At a
little over a mile S.W. ^ S. from this beacon is Zenobia Rock, with 15 ft. water
over it.
Middle Channel has several dangers in it, and is therefore not recommended.
In case it should be necessary to enter by this channel, its dangers will bo
best avoided by passing between Passage and Kayak Islets, which are about '1
cables apart.
Western Channel is wider than Middle Channel, but it is difficult to reach
the settlement by this passage, as it becomes very contracted at its eastern
end. The entrance is westward of Makhnati Island, and on the same side,
three-quarters of a mile within, is Whiiiny Ilsrbour, between Japonski Island
and the islands to the S.W. of it. Here the holding ground is good, with ex-
cellent shelter from N.E. gales.
Directions. — In entering Sitka Sound in a sailing vessel, with the wind
from the nortli-westward, it is advisable to give the Mount Edgeumbe shon a
wide berth, as under the influence of that high land the wind is api tc fail and
full calm when the vessel is in the vicinity of \ithka i. Biorka Island should
be given a berth of at least 2^ miles, and to clear tUe sunkra rocks westward
? ; 'WW
IS'': '■I
:!i!;
!i
1.
632
•1)
I*'
i '
?
THE SITKA ARCHIPELAGO.
I'
of it, do not bring Vitskari beacon to bear northward of N. i E. In entering
the harbour, leave the beacon on Vitskari half a mile to port. To an approach-
ing vessel the islands about Sitka appear as one confused mass, but they may
be approached boldly until the beacons are made out, after which the position
may be plotted accurately, and the desired channel chosen without difficulty.
After passing Vitskari Island, steer N.E. i N., until the beacon on Eckholra
Island bears E.N.E., after which Eastern Channel may be entered with safety,
keeping well on the South side of the channel in order to clear Simpson Shoal
and Tzaritza Hock. Vessels drawing more than 21 ft. must avoid a rocky
patch lying E. by N. from Entrance Island (or the 'J'wins), by passing within
300 yards of the eastern extremity of that island.
With regard to the anchorage at Sitka, Commander Beardslee, U.S.S. Jamts-
town, remarks, that ordinary gales blowing from S.E. and S.W. outside are
deflected to N.E. and South, respectively, before reaching the inner anchorage.
Very heavy S.E. gales, however, blow home with a force greater than is felt
from any other direction. Occasionally a heavy N.E. gale sends through the
valleys heavy squalls from E.N.E. For these reasons it is necessary to moor
very securely, if remaining here for any considerable time. The Jamestown
was moored in the western harbour, abreast the Indian village westward of the
town, with the eastern extremity of Harbour Island bearing S.E. ^ S., and the
East point of Japonski Island S.W. by S. J S., and this anchorage is recom-
mended to vessels visiting the harbour with the intention of remaining for
Bome time.
2ules. — It is high water at Sitka, on full and change, at 0*" SS"" ; springs
rise 9 to 12 ft.
Besides the approach from the S.W., a good passage exists between the
North part of Sitka Sound and Klokachev.i Sound, by passing through White-
stone Narrows, described on p. 627.
SITKA or New Archangel, formerly the Russian establishment, stands on
the N.W. side of a bay on the eastern side of the sound, about 12 miles within
the entrance, the observation spot being in lat. 57'^ 2' 52', long. 135° 10' 45" W.
In 1 883 it had a population of about 300 whites, and 200 Russians or Creoles,
their principal occupation being catching and curing salmon. There is a
custom-house here, also a hospital, saw-mills, school, stores, &c., besides the
official establishment. There is monthly communication with Portland (Oregon)
by steamer, and there is regular steam communication with Sun I'raucisco,
distant about 1,.500 miles.
A light is shown from the Goveraor's house when a vessel is expected, and
on firing a gun or rocket it will be answered.
As before stated (p. 502), the climate is not so severe as the latitude would
seem to waiTant. The mean temperature in summer is about 55° F., and in
winter about 32° only.
Mr. Frederick Whymper visited Sitka in 1865, and his interesting volainc,
tlP^i-
'■'^
ti
SITKA.
633
chapter vii, will give a good account of its condition at that time. The follow-
ing is taken from an article in the Mercantile Marine Magazine, 1869, which
gives a description of the place as it is under the new rogimc.
The harbour of Sitka is a very picturesque one, with plenty of water for the
largest ships to pass in and out, but a dangerous one, owing to the large number
of little islets and rocks, between which pass narrow channels, any of them with
sufficient water to float a ship, but hardly sea-room enough to be safe ; how-
ever, the old llussian pilot seems to have no difficulty in getting through them
when required. The entrance to the harbour is superb. Mount Edgcumbo
towers up some 8,000 ft. above the level of the sea ; its immense crater, filled
with snow, marks the north-western boundary of the harbom*, and can be ^ecn
at a great distance. Darauoff Island is made up of mountains piled on moun-
tains, looking as if pushed up out of the sea by some grand eonvr.lsion of
nature at no very distant day, as evidenced by their peaked summits and jagged
outlines.
The town of Sitka, formerly New Archangel, is situated on a point of land
jutting out into the bay, from the base of the mountains, probobly containing
about 1,000 acres, and from the character of the soil appears to have been made
by the washings of the ciean. On the point is a large lake of fresh water, in
front of which, along the edge of the bay, are about 150 log houses, scattered
about promiscuously. There is but one street, and that extends throughout
the whole length of the town, and is continued for about a mile to Indian River,
a little mountain stream emptying into the bay at this point. This is the only
road on the island ; beyond this, and, in fact, on all sides of the island, fjr
some distance before you reach its termination, the thicket is impenetrable.
This little river furnishes splendid water, cold as ice, aud seems to get its
supply from the melting snows on the summit of the mountains. To this littlo
river the road leads, and was made by the Russians for the purpose of getting
water, as the lake water is hardly fit to drink. There is not a well or cistern
on the island, a large proportion of the water used being carried in small casks
slung on a pole, on the shou'iders of two men or women.
The governor's house is built on a rock, and overlooks the town and bay ; it
is a very large structure, and formerly furnished not only a residence for the
Russian governor, but for many of the officers of the Company. The house is
surrounded by a wide platform, the side towards the bay being protected by a
redoubt and stockade, in which cannon were mounted, as well as on the plat-
form. The garrison flagstaff is on this platform. All approaches to it were
well guarded. On the other three sides were the Company's warehouses, form-
ing a hollow square, with a battery of some twelve or fourteen guns bearing
on the Indian village, and one of the approaches to the town.
The stockade, separating the Indian villngc from the town, runs in a north-
easterly direction, and is about I mile in length, terminating at the lake. The
J\Wth I'aci/ic. 4 m
mm :
H
634
THE SITKA ARCHIPELAGO.
i .1
I
r
I
I
1 ,.
<: li
Indian village fronts the bay, and contains about one hundred large huts, built
of hewn logs, and very substantial — built for defoncc as well as to live in.
The Grcco-ltussian church has rather an im}>osing cathedral here, which is
a great relief to the appearance of the town. It has a dome and steeple, with
a chime of bells, and stands nearly in the centre of the town, fronting the main
street — in fact is in its centre — the street fronting on each side. It is built in
the form of a cross, and, although it has a rather rough exterior, is very
gorgeous inside, decorated with the paraphernalia appertaining to the church
service, which is very imposing and magnificent. The church property here
consists of the bishop's house, widows' home, cathedral, and chapel.
About li mile eastward of the settlement is Jumcstown Bay, where fresh
water may be obtained ; a smnil jetty has been built here to facilitate the supply.
Biorha Island, or Point Wodchouse, as previously mentioned, is the S.W.
point of Sitka Sound. An extensive group of islets and rocks extend K.S.E.
from it for 3 or 4 miles from the shore, which takes a course about S.E. by E.
This part of the coast is much broken into small openings, with islets and de-
tached rocks lying off it. W'c can offer no account of it.
At 20 miles from Biorka Island the Russian charts show an extensive inlet,
trending to the N.N.E., named Whale Bay. It is the Port Banks of Captain
Dixon, and is in lat. 56^ 38'. The foUowuig are Di.\on's remarks on it : —
" The prospect at Port Banks, though rather confined, yet has something more
pleasing and romantic than any wc had seen on the coast. The land to the
northward and southward rises sufficiently to an elevation to convey every idea
of winter ; and though its sides are perpetually covered with snow, yet the
numerous pines, which ever and anon pop out their lusty heads, divest it of
that dreary and horrific cast with the barren mountains to the N.W. of Cook
Eiver (Inlet). To die eastward the land is considerably lower, and the pines
appear to grow in the most regular and exact order ; these, together with the
brushwood and shrubs on the surrounding beaches, form a most beautiful con-
trast to the higher laud, and render the appearance of the whole truly pleasing
and delightful."
Cape Ommaney, the southern extremity of the Sitka Archipelago, lies about
53 miles from Point Wodehouse, and has been previously described on pp. 612
and G19.
Thus the entire circuit of this archipelago has been imperfectly noticed.
We now return to the northward, taking up the description at the point
where Cross Sound terminates. This description, however, must be considered
as imperfect, as we are chiefly dependent for our information on the remarks
of the old navigators. Several of the more important points liave been ex-
amined, of late years, by the American surveyors, but no systematic survey Ikis
i»-«*
CAri'; FAiiiWKATn eu-mount FAiuwKAi iii:u.
635
yet been carried out. Attention will be drawn to their Ilcports in the parts
where these localities are described.*
Cape Spenoer, the point above named, has been noticed on p. 624.
From Cape Spencer the coast takes a general direction of about W. i N. It
is steep and entire, well wooded, and, with the exception of one opening,
Lituja Hay or Altona Gulf, between it and Cape Fairweather, appears not
likely to afford shelter for shipping. The coast is completely bounded at a
little distance by steep, compact mountains, which are a continuation of the
same undivided range stretching from the eastward.
At 15 miles westward of Ca])c Spencer is Forest Cape, with a small open
bay on its eastern side, having the most southern sea-coast glacier on its N.K.
side. Icy Cape is about 10 miles farther on, and at 13 miles northward of it
is Mount Cfillon, about 15,000 ft. high. At 32 miles West of Cape Spencer
is the narrow and dangerous opening to Lituya Hay or Port Frangais, which
extends to N.E. by N. for 6 miles, and then branches into two arms about 3
miles long. The entrance lies 2 or 3 miles westward of the termination of the
rocky bold bluffs in coming from the southward. The best anchorage is just
inside the North point, but the entrance is said to be very dangerous, from the
strong currents rushing over hidden rocks. A small river, frequented by
salmon, enters the sea 1^ mile N.W. by N. of the bay.
CAPE FAIRWEATHER lies 22 miles to N.W. by W. of Lituya Bay, the
coast between being low and sandy. It is placed by Vancouver in lat. 58" 50^',
long. 137" 50', and cannot bo considered as a very conspicuous promontory ; it
is most distinguished when seen from the southward, as the land to the West
of it retires a few miles back to the North, and there forms a bend in the coast;
and it is the most conspicuous point eastward of Cape Phipps, at Behring Bay,
to the W. i N.
MOUNT FAIRWEATHER is one of the most remarkable mountains on the
N.W. coast of America ; it is about 15,500 ft. high; in lat. 58° 54^'. long.
137° 31', and 9 miles from the nearest shore, its peak being always covered
with snow. Capt. Cook says : — " This mountain is the highest of a chain, or
rather ridge of mountains, that rise at the N.W. entrance of Cross Sound, and
extend in a N.W. direction, parallel with the coast. These mountains were
wholly covered with snow (in May, 1778), from the highest summit down to
the sea-coast (which was 12 leagues distant), some few places excepted, when
we could perceive trees rising, as it were, out of the sea, and which, therefore,
wc supposed grew on low land, or on islands bordering on the shore of tho
continent."
The waters surrounding Alaska have always been celebrated for their whale
• Itoferonco has been miido, in tho followinpr description, to tho " Report of Mr. Georga
Davidson, relative to the IJesources and C'oaat foaturea of Alaska," in tho U.S. Coast
Survey Heport, 1807, pp. 187 321.
1/ !
• 'I'Ji
ti; f
iV
630
THE COAST OF ALASKA.
IP
fisheries. Some of the Russian nnvigators inform mc that their host whaling
ground, from the middle of June to the middle of July, vns in the region named
Fairweather Ground, lying between Pamplona Reef and the shores off Mount
Fairweallier. The richness of this locality is confirmed by all the old navi-
gators and fur traders. — Mr. G. Davidson, 1867.
From Capo Fairweather to Cape Phippn, the South point of the entrance of
Behring Bay, the distance is 71 miles, West ; the intermediate coast is a low
border extending from the base of the mountains, well wooded, ond in some
parts appears to be much inundated, the waters finding their way to the sea in
shallow rivulets, through two or three breaks in the beach. The most important
stream is the Jliver Ahekh, which, when its waters overflow, form an extensive
shallow bay or lagoon, named Dry Bay, at about 17 miles from Cape Fair-
weather.
BEHRING BAT, or Taknta Bay, the true situation nnd chara^-ter of which
was first elicited by Vancouver, runs inland, to the N. by K., between Capo
Phipps nnd Point Manby. Capt. Cook, supposing that a bay existed to the S.E.,
conceived it to be the bay that Chctrow, the master of Rehring's fleet, rccon-
noih-cd. This mistake was also followed by Capt. Dixon, who gave the name
of Admiralty Ray to that in question ; but as Rehring certainly was the dis-
coverer of a bay in this locality, and there being but one, the name of that
navigator has supplanted that applied by Dixon.
The general direction of the bay is N. i E. for 24 miles, diminishing from
18 miles in width, at 4 miles from the entrance, to Digges Sound at its head.
The S.E. shores of the bay are fringed by numerous wooded islands, forming
n great number of small bays and anchorages, with very deep water in most of
them, and the entrances have strong currents, rendering them difficult of access
for sailing vessels. The North shore is represented as low and sandy.
Cape Phipps, the south-easternmost point of Rehring Ray, is in lat. 59" 33',
long. 139° 47'. This cape and Ocean Cape, 3 miles southward of it, arerepre-
eented as low and sandy, the whole peninsula being an intricacy of crooked
channels. About 2 miles within it, the const taking an easterly direction, there
is a sinnll opening in the low land, accessible only for boats, near which was
found nn Indian village. Capt. Sir Edward Rclcher states that he was driven
much to the westward by the current near Cape Phipps. — (Vol. i, p. 82).
Point Turner, which is a low, narrow, wooded strip of land, forming the S.E.
point of the island that protects Port Mulgravc from the ocean, is E.N.E., 2J
miles, from the inner or North point of Cape Phipps. About 3 miles N.E. by E.
from Point Turner is n point on the main land, which is the East end of a round-
ing bny, about 4 miles across to Cape Phipps. It is necessary to give a good
berth to Cnpe Phipps, in order to avoid a small reef that stretches from it into
the sea. Cape Turner, on the contrary, is bold, nnd must be kept close on
board, for the purpose of avoiding the shoals that lie a little distance to the
bi
BEHRINO BAY— POUT MULORAVE.
637
'
if
eastward of it ; between these shoals and the point good nnchornge is found in
8 to 14 fathoms, clear good holding ground.
The rise and fall of the tide here are about 9 ft. ; and it is high water about
30' after the moon passes the meridian.
PORT MULORAVE lies to the eastward of Point Turner, and is protected
from the ocenn, as before stated, by an island lying in a North and South
direction. It was possibly first discovered by Capt. Dixon, June, 1787, who
named it after that nobleman. It contains a number of small low islands,
which, in common with the rest of the coast, are entirely covered with pines,
intermixed with brushwood. To the North and N.W. are high mountains
covered with snow, about 30 miles distant.
It was visited by Sir Edward Belcher, in H.M.S. Sulphur, who stayed a
short time here. Fish, halibut, and salmon of two kinds, were abundant and
moderate, of which the crews purchased and cured great quantities. Game
very scarce. The remains of the Russian establishments were observed; a
blockhouse pitched on a cliff, on the East side ; and on the low point, where
the astronomical observations were taken, the remains of another ; also a staff,
with a vane and cross, over a grave. Sir Edward Bclciior says that a good
leading mark for the entrance to the harbour is Mount Fairweather over Cape
Turner.
An off-shore shoal, 7 fathoms, sand, was probably crossed by the Sulphur in
coming out of Port Mulgravc, when no land could be seen within 3 miles. —
(Belcher, vol. i, p. 89).
The island or islands before alluded to, which form the outer face of Port
Mulgrave, and of which Point Turner is the S. W. extremity, extend for 8 miles
in length. They are almost joined to the continental shore by a spit incom-
moded with many rocks and huge stones, but leaving a very narrow channel,
by which Vancouver's vessel, the Chatham, passed from one part of the inlet
to the other, from the northward. The depth in the shallowest part is about
15 feet.
Knight Island is 5 miles N. by W. of the northern entrance to the channel
just described. It admits of a navigable passage all round it, but some rocks
lie about half a mile from its West point ; and there is an islet situated be-
tween it and the main land, on its N.E. side.
Eleanor Cove, — From the North entrance to Port Mulgravc the continental
coast takes a northerly direction, 6 miles, to this cove, which is the eastern
extremity of Bchring B.iy. It is protected from the westward by Knight
Island, which is about 2 miles long in a N.E. and S.W. direction, and about a
mile broad, lying at the distance of a mile from the main land.
The phore here is low, and trends about N.W., 6 miles, to Point Latouche,
the S.E. limit of Digges Sound or Bay. The two points forming the entrance
to Digges Sound, thus named by Vancouver, are bluff, lying about 1 J mile
apart N.E. by E. and S.W. by W., the easternmost of them being Point La-
\ ' ''t!
>5^,
..«*,.
>r^y:<
IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)
1.0
1^ |Z8 1 2.5
1^ 1^ 12.2
JJ_ ? '- 111^
1.25 II , .4 |,.6
■< 6"
►
m
m
^%
Photographic
Sciences
Corporation
«
1', long. 143° 41',
but the longitude is considered by Kaper as 1 43° 54'.* The point of the cape
is low, but within it is a tolerably high hill, which is diKJoincd from the moun-
tains by low land, so that at a distance the cape looks like an island.
* It may be stated that the churts drawn up by Vancouver wore fuund ly Sir Edward
Belcher to be plainly erroneous about this region. All hi* Irunut bearingH and other ob-
servations indicated thii. A river appears to flow near Capo Suckling, which has not b«ga
noticed.— Voyage of the Suljikm; vol. i., p. 175,
'.))
CAPK SUCKLIXa— KAYE Oil KAYAK ISLAND.
641
Wheu near Capo Suckling, Capt. 8'u Edward Belcher snjrs: — "Our attention
was suddenly attracted by i\.o peculiar outline of the ridge in profile, which
one of our draughtsmen wm sketching, apparently toothed. On examining it
closely with a telescope, I found that although the surface presented to tho
naked eye a comparatively even outline, it was actually one mass of small, four-
sided, truncated pyramids, resembling salt-water mud which has been exposed
several days to the rays of a tropical sun (as in tropical salt marshes), or an
immense collection of huts.
*• For some time wc wore lost in conjecture, probably from the dnrk ash
colour ; but our attention being drawn to nearer objects, and the sun lending
his aid, we found the whole slope, from ridge to base, similarly composed ; nnd
08 the rays played on those near the beach, the brilliant illumination distinctly
showed them to be ice. We were divided between admiration and astonish-
ment. What could produce these special forms ? If one could fancy himself
perched on an eminence, about 500 ft. above a city of snow-whito pyramidal
houses, with smoke-coloured flat roofs, rising ridge above ridgo in steps, he
might form some faint idea of this beautiful freak of nature."
Cape Suckling is a low neck, stretching out from a mountainous, isolated
ridge, which terminates about 3 miles from it easterly, M'here the flats of tho
ice pjiramids just alluded to terminate. Apparently the river or opening near
Cape Suckling flows round its base. There is little doubt but that wo may
attribute the current to this outlet, arising, probably, from the melting of the
snow. We had less strength of current after passing this position. Immense
piles of drift wood were noticed on each side of the opening, but none elsewhere.
The current was northerly.
At the western limit of the cape commences a long reach of low sandy beach,
from 5 to 10 miles in width, and bordering the coast to Hinchinh: ook Island,
a distance of 75 miles. This flat is cut through by numerous streams, and at
1 to 2 miles distant the depth is not more than 5 to 10 fathoms.
Kaye or Kayak Island, to tho S.W. of the cape, is long and narrow. Its
South point, named by Vancouver Cape Hamond, is vory remarkable, being a
naked rock, elevated considerably above the land within it. There is also an
elevated rock lying off it, which, from some points of view, appears like a ruined
castle. A sunken rock is also said to lie 13 miles S.E. by S. \ S. of it, but its
existence is doubtful. Towards the sea the island terminates in a kind of bare,
sloping clifis, with a narrow, stony beach at their foot, and interrupted with
some gullies, in each of which is a rivulet or torrent, and the whole surmounted
with a growth of smallish pine trees. Off its N.E. point a rocky reef extends
to the beach.
" Kaye Island, viewed from the eastward, presents the appearance of two
islands. The southern is a high table-rock, free from trees and vegetation,
and of a whitish hue ; the other is moderately high land for this region, with
North Pacific. 4 N
P
643
THE COAST OF ALASKA.
three bare pealu, its lower region being well wooded." — Sir Edw. Btleher,
Tol. i., p. 70.
Wingham Island.— About 2 miles off the N.W. point of Kaye Island is
Winghum l8lp"«l, low, and about 4 miles long. Off its N.E. point, Point
Meturier, are Mme elevated rooks. Vancouver says there is a tolerably well-
sheltered roadstead on its eastern side, reached by passing its North end from
the West through a narrow channel and close to the shore. Within this, and
to the W. by N. of Cape Suckling, is ComptroUer Bay, which is shoal, and
extends 20 miles westward to Point Hey.
Wingham Island, which can be seen to nearly its whole length between Capo
Suckling and Point Le Mesurier, is moderately elevated, rising in three hum-
mocks, which arc bare on their summits. The southern, at a distance, owing
to the lowness of the neck, appears separated. The whole is well clothed with
trees. — Sir Edward Belcher.
At about 40 miles from Capo Suckling is the mouth of Atna or Copper River,
the latter name being taken from the deposits of native copper on its banks.
There was a llussian trading post some distance up the river, and tho district
is reported to be scantily peopled.
Xiddleton Island (Otchek). — ^The position of this isolated island is not
positively determined. It is reported to be above 7 miles long and 3 miles
broad, its North end being in lat. 59^ 30' N., long. 146° 30' W. Reefs extend
3 miles off each end of tho island, and off the northern end is a rock, upon
which the water breaki in great jets, and thence named tho Fountain. About
the middle of its western side is a small cove, with 13 fathoms over gravel.
The island is low and level, and is frequented by the natives for sea-weed and
seals.
Sea Otter Bank lies nearly equi-distont between Otchek and Kayak Islands,
being 23 miles N. by E. | E. from the former, and 32 miles E. by N. J N.
from the South end of the latter. It is laid down as two rocks, and has not
been examined.
PBINliE WILLIAM SOUND was first explored by Capt. Cook in his lost
voyage.* Although this extensive inlet was before known to the Russians, the
coast took him ten days to traverse, 1 1th to 2l8t of May, 1778, a week of which
was spent in the inlet ; but, from the subsequent survey of Cupt. Vancouver,
it was found that no portion of his celebrated predecessor's labours were so
defectively described and delineated as this, which leads t« the supposition that
some important authority has been omitted in the di-awing up of the narrative,
which would not have occurred had the unfortunate circumnavigator survived
to superintend its publication. From the minute examination which was mado
* IMnce William Sound, and particularly its N.E. part, was visited by Senr. Fidalgo, in
1790, for tho purposo of inquiring into the nature and extent of tho Uussiun establishments
in those regions.
PRINCE WILLIAM SOUND— IIINCIIINBROOK ISLAND. 643
of it by Vnncouver, it proved to be a branch of the ocean that requires the
grcntest circumspection to navigote ; nnd although it diverges into many ex-
tensive arms, yet none of them can be considered as commodious harbours, on
account of the rocks and shoals that obstruct the approaches to them, or of the
very great depth of water about their entrances.
The N.E. point of the coast, where the sound commences, is Cape WUthed,
which is 43 miles from Point Hey, last described, the coast between being
fronted by a very extensive mud-flat. The outward coast of the sound is
formed by Hinchinbrook and Montagu Islands ; between and to the West of
which are the entrancer ^o it.
Many of the islands and projecting points are low and wooded, but behind
these rise icy moimtains. The waters of the sound are very deep, the rise and
fall of the tide large, and the currents are very strong, with strong tide rip-
plings in the entrance between Port Etches and Montagu Island. The weather
here is very changeable, und sudden squalls of wind and thick fogs prevail.
HINCHINBROOK ISLAND is the north-easternmost of those before Prince
William Soimd. Its N.E. point, named Point Bentinck, is opposite to Point
Witshcd, about 3 miles asunder, the space between occupied by a low, barren,
uninterrupted sand at low water, being a continuation of the sand-bank extend-
ing from Comptroller Bay, and also along the coast to the northward of Point
Witshed. It is dry at low water, but at high water it was stated that there is
a boat channel, though Vancouver's party found the whole space occupied by
a most tremendous surf, rendering any passage at that time impracticable.
Cape Hinchinbrook, the S.W. point of the island, is 20 miles S.W. by S. i S.
of Point Bentinck, nnd is placed by Vancouver in lat. 60° 16^', long, (corrected)
146° 27'. In a direction S. by W., 7 miles from the cape, are Seal Bocks, a
barren, flat, rocky islet, with several rocks lying at a small distance from it.
'I'his lies, therefore, off the entrance to the sound between Hinchinbrook and
the N.E. end of Montagu Island.
Between Montagu and Hinchinbrook Islands Captain Sir Edward Belcher
found shoal water, contrary to Vancouver's idea, rendering it necessary to an-
chor in 17 fathoms, the tide running at 3 knots.
Port Etchei,* or Nutchek Bay, is on the eastern side of the entrance into
the sound, consequently on the western end of Hinchinbrook Island. The
depth off the North point of the entrance is very great ; no bottom with 100
fathoms could be found within a quarter of a mile of the shore. Off this point
* Port Etches dorires its name from Ilichard Cadman Etches, a merchant, who, with
others, entered into a trading partnership (May, 1785), under the tille of the Kinp^ George's
Sound "ompany, for carrying on the fur trade on this coast, having procured a licence for
this purpose from the South Sea Company. The voyages of Captains Portlock and Dixon,
in the King George and Queen Chnrlotte, in and subsequent to 1786, were undertaken for
tids company*
I
> t
644
THE COAST OF ALASKA.
•re Bomo rocky islets, and there are some within the entrance {Porpoise lioclci),
and until these arc past there is no depth for anchoroge. On the North side
of the port is a lagoon, Conitandne Harbour, within which was a Ilussinn estab-
lishment, on a situation commanding the low narrow peninsula, and formed in
1793, when some ship building was being carried on.*
The entrance is 1^ mile wide in its narrowest part, and thence the bay runs
N.E. for 5^ miles, terminating in a narrow shallow bay.
The narrow channel into Constantine or Brook Harbour passes around
Phipps Point. This lagoon is about 2 miles long, with shallow water, but
affording a channel of 12 ft. water nearly tu Fort Constantine, in which thn
current sometimes runs at the rate of 4 knots. Off the entrance there is an-
ohorago in 5 to 7 fathoms, eren bottom, half a mile from the shore. Fish is
plentiful.
Port Etches was visited by H.M.S. Sulphur, in 1837. In the account of the
voyage is the following : — " This establishment of the Imperial Russian Fur
Company consists of the official resident, eight Russians, and fifty Aleutian
and other allies. It is calculated to stand a tolerable siege, under determined
hands."
Port Etches might furnish a most complete harbour, if vessels frequented
these regions, or a station should ever be required in so high a latitude. The
currents, however, between it and Montagu Island render it difficult of ap-
proach ; and the Russian commandant stated that many sunken rocks (but
perhaps of 10 or 15 fathoms) lie off Cape Hinohinbrook. Capt. Belcher's ob-
sei vations make Vancouver nearly as much in error in longitude aa he ascribes
to Cook.
Phippa Point, the N.E. or opposite extremity of the peninsula, on which is
the Russian establishment, is placed by Sir Edw. Belcher in lat. 60" 21' 12" N.,
long. 146'' 50' 15" W. ; but later observations place it 20 miles farther to the
eastward. It is high water, on full and change, at 1** 15"* ; rise, 9^ ft.
Hawkini Island is to the N.N.E. of Hinchinbrook Island, and is about 20
miles long, N.E. by N. ^ N. and S.W. by S. i S. On its southern side is the
channel before mentioned, which is contracted by the sand-bank on the S.E.
shore to a narrow, difficult channel, against the southern shore of the island.
Off the entrance of the passage between Hawkins and Hinchinbrook Islands is
a shoal, and in the passage are some islets and rocks.
On the North side of Hawkins Island is Port Cordova, an arm extending
from its N.W. point about 13 miles in an easterly direction. Within these
limits are a bay and a small branch, in which are several rocks and rocky
islets. These shores are in general low, ending in pebbly beaches, where
* Upon Garden Island Oapt. Bolcher found a pine that was marked by Portlock, Juljr
22, 1787, and was very noiirly destroying it.— (Belcher, Tol. i., p. 73). At present the
island is covered with pine trees, without many traces of the garden.
rniNCE WILLIAM SOUND-PUKRTO DE VALDES.
648
shoal water extends some distance, and renders landing nt low tide rtrj un-
pleasant. To the northward is Port Oravina. The 8.K. point of its entrance
is placed by Vancouver in lat. 60^ 41', long. 146° 11^', ond theno* it extends
•bout 10 miles to the N.E.
Snug Corner Bay is on the N.W. end of the peninsula separating Ports
OntTina and Fidalgu. Its West point is in lat. 60° 45', long. 146" 35'. Cnpt.
Cook said it was a ver}* snug place, with a depth of 3 to 7 fathoms, OTer mud.
Fort Fidalgo is so named after the Spanish commander who visited it in
1790. It extends in a winding direction to lat. 60° 55', long. 145° 48'; its
width being about 2 miles, and its length 28 miles. Towards it« upper end
arc some islands, and itt shores ore pleasingly diversified by trees. A small
inlet runs in, 2 miles, in a N. by W. direction, at the N.W. point of Port
Fidnlgo, and 4| miles South from its West point is tha South end of Bligh
Island. The shores are also rocky. Bligh Iiland is 7 miles long N.W. by W.
and S.B. by E., and some islands off its North end form the southern side of
the entrance to Puerto de Yaldes.
Pnerto de Valdes was so nomed by Sefir. Fidalgo, and extends for 12 miles
to the North, where a small brook, supplied by the dissc 'ing snow and ice,
flows into the arm, and from thenoe extends 5 miles in a N.E. by E. direction
to its termination in shallow water. The port is from Ij^ to 3 miles in breadth.
Its West point is called Point Fretmantle, and is in lat. 60° 57', long. 146° 49".
Southward of Point Freemantle is an island 7 miles long, in a S.S.W. direc-
tion, and 3 miles broad ; within it is a passage 1| mile wide, with two bays on
the northern side.
Westward of this island is an arm extending about 4 leagues to the N.W. by N.,
and terminating at the foot of a continuation of the range of lofty mountains.
It is, in general, about 3 miles wide, and its western coast terminates to the
South, in Point Pellew, and from this the coast takes an irregular S.W. direc-
tion, 10 miles, toward the East point of a passage leading northward. The
shores are low, and bounded by islets and rocks.
From Point Pellew a channel extends about 8 leagues in length, to the
W.N.W. This in some places is a mile, and in others not a quarter of a mile
broad ; its West side is formed by Etther ItUmd. At 4 miles N.W. by N.
from its farther end is Point Pakenham, which is the S.W. point of Port Wells.
This extends in a N. by W. direction, and terminated in a firm and compact
body of ice. To the westward of the point is another unimportant bay, and
hence the coast pursues a southerly direction, 5 leagues, to Point Pigot. The
continent is here composed of a stupendous range of snowy mountains, from
whose base low projecting land extends, jutting out into points, and forming
the shores, which are thinly wooded with dwarf pines and stunted alders.
Point Pigot and Point Cochrane, opposite to it, form the entrance to Pattagt
Canal. The principal branch extends from Point Pigot S.W. by W., 13 miles,
and then S. by W>« 4 miles farther, terminating in lat. 60° 48'. Here the head
li
(
1
i
t.
646
THE COAST OF ALASKA.
of the inlet rcnchcs within 1 2 miles of Turnngain Arm, nt the head of Cook
Inlet, hereafter described. The isthmui itself is a valley of some breadth,
which, though containing elevated land, was very free from snow (in Juno),
and appeared to bo perfectly easy of access. Dy it the Ilussians, and Indians
also, communicated with either of these extensive sounds. The other branch
extends 2( leagues S.W. by S. from Point Cochrane, which is 1^ mile E. by 8.
from Point Pigot. Eight miles E.N.E. from Point Cochrane is Point C'ulron,
off which is an island about 3 miles from the shore, and about 4 miles long ;
and following the coast southward, for 6 miles, wo arrive at an opening about
2 miles wide. From the South point of the entrance, 1 1 miles along a shore
broken into small bays, lined by innumerable rocks, and exposed to the whole
range of the N.E. swell from the sound, brings you to Point Nowell, in Int.
60° 27'.
Uetwcon this coast and the ocenn are a considerable number of largo islands,
which lie generally in a N. by W. and S. by E. diroction. The coast of the
continent runs, but in a very irregular manner, in the same direction, to Cape
Ptiffet, in lat. 50° 55', long. 148° 3', thit being the point ^.¥ , and has a
landlocked cove, 1 mile from the entrance, with good anchorage, in 7 fathoms,
mud.
YoncouTer sajs : — " The place of our anchoring in Port Chalmers can only
be considered as a small cove, on a rugged rocky coast, very difficult of access
or egress." Stockdale Harbour, too, is only a bay f ill of rocks, and of course
not worthy of particular attention. The shores about Port Chalmers are in
general low, and very swampy in many places, on which the sea appeared to
be making rapid encroachments, the remains of the forests being seen below
high-water mark. Off the entrance to the harbour are several lurking rocks,
which make its approach very dangerous, as before stated. Great care is
necessary to avoid them, as some are not always visible.
The approaches to this harbour, from the South, are also much incommoded
by two small shoals midway between the South point of the harbour and a
rugged rock that lies about a mile from the East side of the largest of Green
Islands. The southernmost of these shoals has 6 fathoms least water, and the
other, three-quarters of a mile north-eastward of it, has a small patch of weeds
in 3 fathoms.
It is high water at Port Chalmers about one hour after the moon passes the
meridian; the current sets southward, and there is no diuught into the har-
bour. Springs rise 13 and 14^ ft., the night tides rising above a foot more
than those in the day.
The strait between Montagu and Green Islands, to the northward of Port
Chalmers, is embarrassed by a line of sunken rocks, which are very steep-to,
affording no indication of their proximity by the lead. From the N.W. point
of Montagu Island a ledge of rocks extends half a mile. Off the North point
of Green Island, 3 miles distant, is a ledge of rocks, and to the northward of
these again is another. The N.E. end of Montagu Island is divided into bays
or rounds, two of >Nhich appear capacious, but from their points of entrance
(as well as within them) rocks extend a considerable distance. As this side of
the island is greatly exposed to the prevailing winds, great caution ought to be
observed in navigating near its shores.
From the N.E. point of Montagu Island its eastern shores run compactly to
the S. by W. for 31 miles, to a low projecting point covered with wood. Off
it lies a cluster of six rocky islets, chiefly composed of steep cliffs, nearly level
on their tops, which may serve as a direction in thick or gloomy weather to the
South point of Montagu Island, lying from them S.W. by S., di$ ant about 16
miles. They are tolerably well wooded, and are not liable to be mistaken, par-
ticularly for the Chiswell Isles (about 63 miles to the S.W. ^ S.), because thoso
appear to be entirely barren.
CHISWELL ISLES-CAPE ELIZABETH.
640
From Capo Puget to Cape Elizabeth the shores have been well explored by
Russian navigators, and their reports show that the coast line is broken by bays
and coves, but none offering good anchorage, the water being deep close to the
shores. The coast is rocky and mountainous, yet covered with wood.
Chiswell Isles arc a group of naked rugged rocks, seemingly destitute of soil
and any kind of vegetation. The centre of the southernmost group, named
iSeal Roch, is in lat. 5ca-
sionally from the side of the ditch in which he lay, and covering his feet, ho
at last would not sullor it to be removed, and said that he felt some warmth
from it, which otherwise he should want in tho remaining parts of his body,
and thus the sand increased to his belly ; so that, after his ileeease, they were
obliged to scrape him out of the ground, in order to inter him in a proper
numner." — Muller.
TschirikotF's voyage was less unfortunate than his commander's ; but he had
scarcely fewer hardships. He returned to liussiu, after having explored part
of the American coast.
Such 'as the success of the first Russian expeditions. They were followed at
intervals by many others, among which the names of GL'totf, Synd, Krenit/in,
and Levaeheir, stand most conspicuous.
Our great navigator, James Co;'', ^, stored tho Icy Ocean, and ascertained
the exact nature of the continental (-eparation iirsi traversed by Bchring iu
TIIK ALEUTIAN ISLANDS. AND HKIIUINn SEA.
f)('.;»
August, 177R; and liis second in command, Cnpt. Clorkc, after ais sad catttM-
trophc at Hawaii, af^ain poiiotratcd to the icy barrier in July, 1771). Tlio abor-
tive Huseiiun expedition, under Commodore Joseph Hillin^a, nn K'n(;liNbtnan,
made by order of llie Em prosH Catherine IL, in 1785 to 17i)t,did not penetrate
the strait, one great object of the cxpeditf'":, after having traversed the Sea of
Itehring. In 1H17 Capt. Otto von Kot/.ebue examined uud named most of the
points on the American coast of Hehring Straits.
The Asiatic coast, frimi East Cape to Kamchatka, is amply described from the
admirable survey and examinations of Hear- Admiral Frederic Liitke. In IH'iO
the Kussian corvettes, the Moller, Capt. Stanikowiteh, 'ir.l the Stninvine, inider
Capt. Liitke, were despatched to these seas, and exu'.iined almost tiie whole of
the western shores, and to the account of this voya(;e we owe our descriptions.
To our own country wo are principally indebted for the accurate knowledge
wc possess of the American shores. This is from the memorable voyage of
11. M.S. Blottom, under Admiral F. W. Ueechey, who minutely surveyed the
eastern shores of the strait in 1 8'2G-7.
Tlic vessels employed in the Arctic searching expeditions in lH'ir>-.')4, in
quest of intelligence of the party under Sir John Erauklin, added something to
our knowledge of the Aleutian Islands und the northern harbours. 11. M.S.
Herald, under Captain (afterwards Admiral) Kellett, the I'lover, under (^om-
nuinder Moore, and the ex])edition in the Knterpriae and Inveilvjator, under
Captain (afterwards Admiral) CoUinson, in 1850, with others, may bo specially
noticed, liut the account of the progress of these noble ctforts belongs to
other subjects.
One of the latest expeditions to this remote land is probably the most won-
derful of all in its orijiin, Hefure the solution of the great problem solved by
the successful laying of the Atlantic Electric Telegraph Cable, in the summer
of I8f)7, the importance of leiegraphio conununication between America and
I'lurope, led to the project started by Mr. 1'. 1). Collins, of an overland con-
nection from San l''nincisc(i, actuss Hehring Strait, and thence through the
U\is8ian If a great
miles in
ad is 7 or
' barren.
Ibut there
broad." —
liles east-
( 669 )
TEE ALEUTIAN ABCHIPELAOO.
It is to the celebrated Bchring, as we have mentioned regarding the Kodiak
Islands, that Pussia owed the discovery of the Aleutian Islands. It was during
his return f.om the coast of America, in 1741, that he discovered several of
them, now known under the names of Semitsch, Kiska, and Amchitka. In
1 745 an enterprising merchant, named Basoff, made a voyage hither in search
of the sea-otters. After this period they were more frequently visited, and
they daily became better known. The geographical positions of the group we
owe principally to the Russian Vice- Admiral Sarytscheff, who accompanied
Capt. Billings in his expedition in 1791-2. To Capt. Cook, too, we owe some
observations on this island, and some others near it. Captains Golownin and
Kotzebue, in the years 1817 and 1818, determined the position of some of their
points. Capt. Liitke has given a long article upon this archipelago, from the
observations of Lieut. Tebenkoff, M. Ingnestriim, and several others, which in
our general ignorance of this archipelago are valuable. Capt. Beechey has
also added slightly to our knowledge of them ; and several other navigators,
hereafter alluded to, have added something to the general stock. Some of our
later sources of information are mentioned in the note on pp. 664-5.
The Aleutian Islands form a chain, which extends nearly E.N.E. from the
Isle of Attou, in long. 172° 30' E., to the peninsula of Aliaska, comprising an
extent of 23" of longitude, and lying between 51° and 55° 15' of N. latitude.
They have been divided into several groups. The ^ estem or Blijnie group
is composed of four islands — Attou, Agattou, Semitsch, and Bouldyr. Another
group is named Kryci or Rat Islands ; a third, the Andreanoff Isles ; and the
eastern group, the Fox Islands, because these animals are only found on the
islands composing that particular group.
The prevalence of fogs, and the rapidity and uncertainty of prevailing tides,
make an approach to any of the passes between the Aleutian Islands hazardous
in the extreme. — Commander De Long, U.S.N. (Voyage of the Jeanne tte, vol.
i., 1883, pp. 87-88).
On all these islands traces of volcanic action are evident. On many of them
there are volcanos in activity, and some, as for example, Ounimak, are subject
to continual volcanic eruptions and shocks. The Fox Islands exceed all others
in height ; the farther we advance to the West the lower they become. The
direction in which almost all the islands of the Fox group lie, lengthwise, is
N.E. by N. to S.W. by S. They are low and narrow to the S.W., and increase
in breadth and elevation to the N.E. But beyond the Island of Amkhitka,
where the general direction of the chain runs to the West, this law alters, and
the S.E. extremities of the islands are lower and narrower, and their N.W,
extremities higher and broader.
The following description commences with the easternmost of the Aj-cbip«*
lagO) and proceeds westward in succession.
670 THE ALEUTIAN AUCI1H'£1AG0.
FOX ISLANDS.
This group, extending from Ounimrk to Amoukta, is the most important of
the Archipelago, oommerciallj, on account of the produce of the chase which
is annually drawn from them ; and, geographically, from their central situation,
and the ports they contain.
OUNIMAK, or Unimak, is the easternmost of the group, and is separated
from the peninsula of Aliaska by the Strait of Isanotskoy. In a harbour in
this strait Krenitzin wintered in 1768. In 1826 Capt. Beechey passed through
the strait separating it from the islands to the southward. He calls its South
point Wtdge-thaped Cape, before which lies c rock, and the narrowest part of
the strait is formed by the Isle Kougalga, Beechey making the distance 9|
miles.
The southernmost point of Ounimak is called Cape Hilsou, or Kithouk, or
Khitkhoukh ; and, from its shape, by Captain Beechey, Wedge-shnped Cape.
From this southern cape the coast runs to the N.E. to Cape Lutke. The S.W.
point of the island is Cape Sarytscheff; before it is a large rock similarly
situated with respect to it as that of the southern cape.
The island is about 65 miles long in a N.E. by N. J N. and S.W. by S. f S.
direction, and its greatest breadtt about 25 miles. It is, so to speuk, but the
cover to a furnace, continually burning ; on the summit of this a high moun-
tain chain extends throughout the island, having several burning spiracles.
Notwithstanding the number of craters, the subterranean fire causes frequent
earthquakes. The highest of these summits, the Chichaldinskoi Volcano, or
Mount Shithaldin, reaches to a height of 8,683 ft. It is a regular cone ; and
to the eastward of it is another, with a double summit. It stands nearly in the
centre of the island, in about 54° 45' and 163° 59'. Mr. Whymper says: —
" Chichaldinskoi has a very graceful form. Near it is a second mountain of
less elevation, with a jagged double summit, of very odd and irregular appear-
ance. Smoke was issuing (September, 1865,) from a large cleft near the
summit." At 6 miles from the S.W. side is another equally conical volcano,
called Pogrommoi, or Nosovskoi, which Kotzebue says is 5,525 English feet in
height. The Itaannakh Chain has also two high peaks towards the N.E. ex-
tremity of the island. The whole of the mountain chains are nearer the South
than the North side.
A broad bed of gravel forms the N.E. extremity of the island, and a low
eoast extends as far as the village of Chichaldinskoi without any shelter. The
village is two-thirds the distance from the N.E. extremity to a cape 3^^ miles
eastward of Cape Mordvinoff. The N.W. extremity, Cape Mordvinoff(Ca/70
Noisak), is in lat. 54° 51', long. 164° 29'. From Cape Chichkoff, which is
bluff and very remarkable, because the land on each side uf it is very low, to
the West extremity of the island, Cape Sarytscheff, the coast forms the base of
FOX ISLANDS.
671
rtant of
e which
ituation,
the Pogrommoi Volcano. The latter cape is bluff, and of a moderate height.
At 7 or 8 milea from it, on the summit of the coast, is the village of Pogrom-
moi, off which there is a boat-lnnding. At 4 or 5 miles E.S.E. of Cape Saryts-
cheff is the small village of Nosovskot, where there is easy landing, and about
6 miles to the E.S.E. of this is the high steep Capi Khitkhoukh, with a high
pile of stones before it, and which is called Ounga.
Boriok or Onnimak Strait, through which Kotzebue passed in 1817, sepa-
rates Ounimak from the Krenitzin Isles to the southward. Its narrowest part,
as before mentioned, is about 9^ miles broad. The currents are very violent
in it, being variously stated to run at from 3 to 6 knots.
Although Rurick Strait is the widest and safest for traversing the Aleutian
chain from North to South, and vice verad, and also the most convenient for
passing into the northern part of the Sea of Bchring, it is not so advantageous
for ships which, coming from the Pacific, are destined for Ounalashka. Capt.
Wrangel recommends the Strait of Akoutan, farther westward, for this route.
Krenitzin Islands, the islands next in succession to Ounimak, are five in
number. The N.E. of them, called Kougalga, in reality consists of two islands,
Ougamok and Ouektok. There is a peak on the N.E. extreme of Ougamok,
visible a long way off.
Tigalga, Ktgalga, or Tigalda, is the next to the S.W., and is about 10 miles
long, E.N.E. and W.S.W. Its centre is in lat. 64° 5' N., long. 165° 5' W. A
small island, connected by a chain of rocks to Tigalda, lies off its northern ex-
tremity. Tigalda is mountainous, and intersected by three isthmuses. Birds
and sea-animnls frequent this island ; a great quantity of drift-wood is found
on its coast, and coal is found on the shore of Derbinskoi Strait.
Derhinshoi Strait separates Tigalda from Abatanok, and is remarkable among
oil the others for the extraordinary ropidity of the current and its strong tide
races.
Abatanok, or Avalanak, lies S.W. by W. of Tigalda, and is about the same
size, and lies in the same direction. At 2 miles W. by S. J S. of its western
point is the small island of Aektok, or Goly (bare), which is about 3 miles in
circumference, and lies 2 miles southward of the South point of Akoun.
Akoun forms the S.W. portion of Rurick Strait, and lies to the West of the
Krenitzin Islands. It is about 10 miles long, in a N.N.E. and S.S.W. direction ;
its breadth is unequal. There are two small bays on it, one in the N.E. part,
the other in the N.W. part of the island.
The island is mountainous, and particularly cliffy on its N.E. and North
sides. On the South side of the island is a sort of column, which, seen from
the East or West, resembles a tower, or steeple surrounded by houses. On its
N.W. side is a snroking volcano, and near the village on the side of Akounskoi
Strait are some hot springs.
Akotmakoi Strait, separating Akoun from Akoutan, is not more than 2 miles
t vfl
Him
m^
i
1
'1
672
THE ALEUTIAN AIICHIPELAQO.
wide, is throughout bestrewed with rooks, and subject to strong currents and
tide races.
Akontan, about a mile W.N.W. of Akoun, is large, mountainous, of a round
form, and having a diameter of 12 or 13 miles. It has no good harbour ; there
are tome coves on the northern coast, but they cannot be serviceable to any
but very small vessels.
With the exception of Ounaloshka, it is higher than the neighbouring islands.
Nearly in the centre is an active volcano, 3,898 ft. high. The coasts are steep,
particularly on the South side ; on the North they slope more gradually and
evenly. Volcanic evidences are everywhere abundant, and the fire from the
crater was seen in September, 1865. Between its S.W. end and Ounolashka
is Ounalga Island.
The ISLAND of OUNALASHKA, which is the largest and the best known
of the Aleutian Archipelago, follows. It extends about tio miles from N.E. by N.
to S.W. by S., with an average width of 15 miles. The S.W. extreme is in
lat. 53° 13' N., long. 167° 47' W. ; and the N.E. part is in lat. 54° 1' N., long.
166° 22' W.
The name here given as generally known to Europeans is a contraction of
Nagounahska. It is the most important of the group, because it was the resi-
dence of the chief of this section of the Eussian Company's hunting opera-
tions. There are about eight villages on the island, together containing about
600 inhabitants.
There are many deep bays on the coasts of Ounalashkr^, which have nearly
all been examined and surveyed by our navigators. The northern shore has the
greatest number, as for example : — Captain Bay, the Bay of Otters, lUuluk
Bay, Kaleghta Bay, and Samganooda Bay, visited by Cook.
ITnalaska or Captain Bay is formed by Capes Kalekhta and Wessiloffshy,
which lie in an E.N.E. and W.S.W. direction, 9 miles apart, and is about 13
miles to its southern part. The upper part of the bay contains three distinct
smaller bays, the eastern, northern, and western bays. Captain Harbour, the
southern bay, has not much to recommend it, and its entrance is scarcely more
than a quarter of a mile broad.
Cape Kalekhta is a rocky precipitous headland, about 1,500 ft. high, having
a peculiar pinnacle rock close off it, named Priest Rock. A rocky ledge ex-
tends about half a mile outside it. Cape Cheerful, the West headland, 8^
miles to W.S.W. of Cape Kalekhta, is high and bold, and is readily recognised
from the northward and eastward by a large cascade. The entire eastern shore
of the bay, nearly to the village, is studded with sunken rocks. Constantine
Bay is the first bay southward of Cape Kalekhta, with a reef clear across the
entrance. The next bay to the South is Letum or Summer Bay, with the
village of Imagnee near its head.
The general direction of the bay is about S.S.W. for 1 1 miles, and about
half-way inside the entrance is divided by a high island, named Amognak or
•ii_
irrenta and
of a round
•our ; there
ble to
any
ng islands.
are steep,
dually and
from the
)unala8hka
est known
Jf.E.byN.
trcme is in
' N., long.
raction of
IS the resi-
ng opera-
ling about
ive nearly
re has the
rs, lUuIuk
tisiloffsky,
about 13
e distinct
hour, the
cely more
h, having
ledge ex-
dland, 8^
icognised
srn shore
nstantine
:ross the
with the
ad about
>gnak or
FOX ISLANDS- OUNALASIIKA ISLAND.
67.1
Oumahnagh, rising precipitously to a height of 1,800 ft., forming Illuluk ILtr-
hour on its East side. The harbour takes its name from the village where tlie
Company had an establishment. Kotzebue says that it would be the best har-
bour in the universe if the entrance to it were not so difficult ; for a vessel en-
tering Port Illuluk, if it should fall calm, would remain exposed to the violent
currents and squalls which often occur here. The harbour is SJ miles in depth,
and the soundings in its centre are from 7 to 1 4 fathoms.
From the N.E. point of Amognak a narrow, low, boulder tongue stretches
southward about 1^ mile, forming another fine landlocked harbour, named
Ulakhta Bay, with 15 to 20 fathoms water throughout. It is known to the
Russians as Dutch Bay. The holding ground in the centre is good, in 14 to
16 fathoms over black mud and shells. Near the extremity of the boulder
tongue, which is in lat. 53° 53' 66" N., long. 166" 28' 34" W., is a half-
finished house.
To the East of this spit rocky shoals, covered with kelp, extend some dis-
tance into the eastern road. Between it and the East shore, which is high
and precipitous, is the entrance to Illuluk Harbour, with a depth of 7 to 20
fathoms. This bay is sometimes visited by whalers. The South entrance to
the harbour is very narrow and tortuous, and may be considered unfit for navi-
gation. The land around the harbour abounds in grasses, and cattle grow fat.
Vegetables also grow well.
It is high water here, on full and change, at 7'" 30" ; the highest tide ob-
served was 7i ft.
Igognak Point, on the West side of the entrance to Ounalaska Bay, has
some rocks extending in a curve half a mile in the southward, and behind this
reef is a safe anchorage. About 2 miles West of the point is a bank of 50
fathoms, noted for its cod.
The prevalent winds in winter are S.E., which bring rain and fog ; N.E.
winds bring clear weather ; and North and N.W., snow. The force of the
winds, even in the landlocked harbour of Illuluk, surpasses everything I have
ever experienced elsewhere, especially with westerly or south-easterly winds.
Shocks of earthquake, and other volcanic phenomena, are of almost daily occur-
rence. — Mr. G. Davidson.
Kaleghta Bay, which lies next to the eastward of Illuluk, is open and deep,
and only merits attention on account of a village of the same name which was
situated at its head. The Bay of Otters, or Bobrovaia, adjoins Kaleghta Bay
on the East, and is the largest of those which intersect Ounaloshka, being 18
miles deep in a N.N.E. and S.S.W. direction. Its breadth, as well at the
mouth as the rest of the bay, excepting the North part, is about 4 miles. Both
shores of the bay present a large number of small coves, 2 or 3 miles deep,
which contain good anchorages ; the rivulets which fall from the mountains
afford good water. The western part of the Bay of Otters is formed by a
North Pacific. 4 s
m
«74
THE ALEUTIAN ARCHIPELAGO.
t| ■ ii
peninsula, the aamo land which forms the eastern side of Captain Ray. At the
extremity of this peninsula is Samganooda Hay, where Cook anchored twice.
Judging from the description given by Cook, this port is preferable to Port
lUuluk. It is 4 miles long, and affords safe anchorage throughout its extent;
the mouth of the bay is a mile in width, and it narrows toward the bottom to a
quarter of a mile, where you may anchor in from 4 to 7 fathoms, on a bottom
of sand and mud, being entirely landlocked. This port has also the advantage
of being nearer the open ocean. Ilcrc there was an establishment of the Russian
American Company.
The Island of Ounalya, or Oonella, lies before Samganooda Ray, as men-
tioned before. Between it and the Island of Akoutan, to the N.K. of it, is the
Strait of Akoutan. Capt. Wrongol recommends this strait to bo preferred for
passing between the islands, because it leads directly to all the ports lying on
the N.E. side of Ounalashka. This strait is 2} miles broad ; but it is some-
what narrowed by a chain of islets. Egg Islets, lying half a mile ofi the N.E.
part of Ounalga. Spirkin Island, which forms the eastern point of the Ray of
Otters, is 10 miles long in a N. ^ E. and S. \ W. direction. Oudagagh Channel,
which separates it from Ounalashka, is about a mile wide, and 3^ miles long,
in a northerly direction. The depth in it is 45 fathoms. At the N.E. end of
Spirkin Island lies the e nail isle Ougalyan, being separated by a cle'j channel
about a mile long.
There are two rocks near the v. ^ coast of Spirkin Island, between which
Cook passed in the night of June 26tu, ''"S. According to Cook the nrst
rock lies 4 miles S. i E. from Ougalgan Isle ; the other at 5 miles directly to
the South of this isle; their distance apart is 1^ league, and the relative bear-
ing N.E. and S.W.
On the eastern side of Ounalashka is the small bry of Killiliak, which is
easily known by a remarkable cape, named Ar;ti:hitka, standing a little to the
North of the entrance to the bay. Ounalosbka here presents the appearance
of being divided into two parts. The baj ic p trfectly sheltered from all winds,
and the depth is about 10 fathoms.
Makouchinskoy Bay lies about the middle of the island, on the western side.
It is 2f miles wide ot its opening, and 11 or 12 miles long in an easterly direc-
tion. Its head approaches that of the Bay of Otters within .3 miles, and within
7 miles of Captain Bay, in such a manner that this portion of Ounalashka forms
a peninsula of 40 miles in circumference, composed of high mountains, among
which a very high volcano is to be distinguished.
OTJMNAK ISLAND, or TJnmak, lies next West to Ounalashka, and, next
to that island, is the largest of the archipelago. The strait which separates
them is 4 miles wide in its southern part ; but this is diminished to one-half by
Tinpinak Island, which lies in mid-channel, and renders the passage difficult
for largt vessels. Outside the strait, at 5 miles to the southward of Tinginak,
is a i^ci, Avhich covers at high watirr«i'>
FOX ISLANDS— OUMNAK ISLAND.
675
Oumnak is 65 miles in length, in a N. by E. | E. and S. bj W. ^ W di-
rection. Its height increases from its southern end; and its North end i com-
posed of very high mountains, amn^g which may be distinguished a very high
volcano, covered with eternal snow.
Upon the island are two active volcanos, the first, Vc$vidovik<3i, is nearly in
the centre of the island, and is its highest point, about 8,000 ft. ; the other,
Touliktkoi, is 10 miles from the N.E. side. The S.W. extremity of the island.
Cape Sigak, lies in lat. 62° 60', long. 168° 42'. A short distance from this the
S.E. coast forms some small open bays, one of which is called the Old Port,
and is somewhat sheltered from the South from seaward by a bank. Beyond
this is Black Cape, projecting considerably into the sea, and forming the open
cove called Drovianaia (wood), on account of the great quantity of drift-wood
thrown on to it. Beyond this the coast runs nearly straight, and not very high,
to Vcevidovskaia Cove, op-ju to the South, before which lie the Voevidovskat'a
Islands, mentioned presently. Here the coast is low and sloping, and thus ex-
tends to Gloubokaia (deep) Cove, into which a river discharges itself, abound-
ing with fish. Farther to the N.E., beyond a mass of rocks 90 ft. in height,
inclining to the N.E., is the village Egorkojskoi, in a small creek midway be-
tween Cape Sigak and Oumnak Strait. The neighbourhood of the village affords
great resources. A rude, sandy, and straight coast surrounds this as far as the
village Tou^'kskoi, lying in front of the islet Tanghinakh, in the Strait of
Oumnak. ;ar the S.E. coast there are many reefs and banks.
The eastern face of the island facing Ounalashka is steep and rocky in some
places, but is not high. The North part is high, sandy, and even, frequently
intersected with ravines, but without a single remarkable inlet. The West
coast is mountainous, but not steep. On this side, at 8 miles from the S.W.
extremity, is the largest village of the island, Retchechnoi, standing on a small
hill between some lakes inland and the sea-shore. Before it is a small and safe
harbour for small vessels. Nearly in the middle of the West side of the island
is the large but open bay called Ingakoadak,
On the S.E. side of the island, and in front of the Vcevidovskoi volcano and
the bay of the same name, are situated the small islands called, also, Vcevi-
dovskies. They are six in number, and are 2 miles off the coast, the interval
being full of banks.
Oumnak, like the rest of the islands, is deficient of wood, some willow ond
other bushes only growing on it. It is, next to Ounimak, the most subject to
volcanic eruptions. One feature is an evidence of this : it is the abundance of
hot springs, one of which resembles the Geysers of Iceland.
To the northward of Oumnak it was stated that a long reef stretched for 26
miles in a nearly North, true, direction, at the outer point of which is Ship
Rock, so named by Cook, in the form of a tower. Mr. Dall, however, could not
find this reef.
About half a mile within Ship Rock is the small island of Joann Bogoslofff
mA
'f;-9'
m
;m
i
^}^- ,
i
!;'
' f
L
676
THE ALEUTIAN ARCHIPELAGO.
which is of Tolcanic origin, and did not appear till 1796, after an earthquake.
The length of this small island, from N.W. to S.E., is ahout three-quarters of
a mile. A chain of rocks projects 2 m»ies beyond its N.W. extremity, and
another a mile from its N.E. point. The highest part of the island rises to
844 ft.* This island, as before stated, is said to be connected with Oumnak by
a reef of rocks, which doubtless owe their origin to a similar cause ; for, in
1778, Cook, and thirty years later Sai^tscheff, sailed between Ship Rock and
the Island of Oumnak.
To the westward of Oumnak is a group of four — or, according to Liitke,
five — volcanic islands, which bear the name of the Isles of the Four Mouw
tains ; they are all very near to each other. The name of the S.W. isle ia
OuUaga ; of the N.W., Tano; the N.E. is called Tschiganok; and that to the
S.E. Cliagamil. The first and the last are the largest, being 5 or 6 leagues in
circumference. On the U.S. charts the northern island is named Uliaya, the
middle islands Kigalgin and Kagamil, and the southern Chuginadak, the two
latter being the largest.
H.M.S. Amphitrite, Captain Charles Frederick, R.N., passed between the
Four Mountains Isles and Younaska on June 28, 1853. The four islands are
very remarkable, having conical peaks from 3,000 to 4,000 ft. high, and were
then covered with snow fully three-fourths of their height. The channel is 10
or 11 miles wide, and apparently free from danger ; no soundiuf^s at 15 fathoms,
a rippling, but nnt a strong current.
Tounaska. — To the S.W. of these islands is Younaska, which is about 15
miles long, N.E. by N. and S.W. by S. There is a high mountain in the centre
of the island. Tschegoula, or Tchougoul, a small island, lies about 8 miles
W.S.W. of Younaska, and near the N.E. point of Amoughta. It is of a cir-
cular form, and 3 miles in diameter. It seems as if formed of fragments of
rock ready to fall down, and has no landing place. At about a mile from it,
in the direction of Amoughta, is a small isolated rock.
Amoughta, or Amoukhtou, is the westernmost of the chain of the Pox
Islands. It is nearly round, and about 6 miles in diameter. I^s centre is
mountainous, and its summit irregular, the coasts being low, but steep. A
* Admiral EruBonstern adds en account of this phenomenon, 'rem Mr. Baranoff, chief
of the American Company's eBtablighnient : — " In 1806 a new volcano appeared on one of.
tho Aleutian Islands. Thoy then observed, bttweon Ounalaska and Oumnack, to the
North of the hitter, a flame jetting out of tho scii, aud soon after, smoke, which continued
ten consecutive days. After this, a white body, of a round form, was obsorved to rise out
of the water, and increase rapidly in sine. At the end of a month the flame ceased, but the
smoke increased considerably, and the island kept on increasing. In 1814 tho island was
formed by precipices, covered wiih small stonea, which were being continually rjoctod from
the crater. In 1315, a second expedition found the island very much lower than in tho
previous year, auH its appearance entirely chan{;cd. The prcoipicos had fallen, aud vrert
continually crumbling away."
ANDREANOFF ISLANDS.
677
tliort distance from its South end a high column of rock rises ahove the
water.
The Shannels between this group are those generally used by ships either
going or returning from the Sea of Behring. 7.'he Russian Company's vessels
generally preferred that of the Strait of Oimiinak ; but Capt. Wrangel prefers
the Strait of Akoutun, between that inland and Akoim, as being much shorter.
In returning by this strait, with the prevalent S.W. winds, you may run to the
S.E. without being cramped by the coasts.
The Strait of Ounalga should not be used except in case of necessity, on
account of its narrowness, its strong currents, and its terrible tide races, which,
when the wind and waves oppose each other, are sufficient to dismast a vessel.
The Strait of Akontan is considered by Liitke the best to quit by. It is 2
miles broad between Akoutan and the five Tchaitchi (sea-mew) Islands, which
are of an oblong form, distant half a mile from the N.E. point of Ounalga.
Care should be taken of these islands in coming from the southward, as a
mistake might be fatul.
The tide rips, occurring at half tide, in the approaches to Unalaska Harbour,
are only dangerous in severe storms. They are in general met with at the
North entrance of Unalga and Akutan Passes, and are especially violent oflF the
N.W. point of Akutan. Unalgu Pass is preferable for steamers and small
vessels. For large vessels Akutan Pass affords more room. It is a noteworthy
fact that there is never any wind over the tide-rips, however fresh it may be
blowing around them. — Mr. G. Davidson.
ANDREANOFF ISLANDS.
This group extends from Segouam, or Sisouam, to Goreli, or the " Burnt
Island," as Liitke also calls thcf.rdtramed island.
Segoaam, or Goreli, according to the hunters, is the easternmost of the
group. It is intersected by a chain of mountains, divided into three masses,
smoke issuing at times from the central mass. In the N.E. part they rise
perpendicularly from the water. There are no dangers around it.
Amouyhta Channel, to the East of it, is clear, safe, and has similar currents
to the rest. The channel to the West, between it and Amlia, is far from being
as convenient. From the extent of the latter island, and also that of Segouam,
a barrier of nearly 1 00 milet; is opposed to the periodic current passing between
them, and consequently the water rushes violently from either side through the
strait, causing terrible and dangerous races.
Capt. Henry TroUopc, ll.N., passed in II. M.S. Rattlesnake, between Segouam
and Anioukta, August 16, 1853, but without seeing land, lie confirms this
account of the races in the channel, lie says, " I neve, sow such a confused
tumbling sea, with appearance of overfalls, &c. j H wGshetl away one of the
gangways, and broke on board several times."
\
km
^0
I
It
»' i
"Si- ''km-
t S h I'.'fPf'
J A
iM
I !'
I il-
:i
;
I lil
1
!■:
i ^
'W
ill
If
678
THE ALEUTIAN ARCHIPELAGO.
Amlia, which succeeds Segouam, to the westward, is long and narrow, and
extends nearly East and West, true ; its length is about 40 miles. The centre
of the island is occupied with a chain of mountains, the greater part of a conical
form, but, compared with the others, of a moderate height. There is no active
volcano on it, and its shores are in general clear. The West cape projects to
the north-westward, and is in about lat. 52° 6^. On the South coast, about a
mile from the West end, is a large open bay, and an Aleutian village. At this
part the island is not more than a verst (two-thirds of an English mile) in
breadth, but it is broader in the middle. The South side forms several bays,
but all are open save one, Svetchnikoff Harbour ; this port is 16 miles from the
East extremity of the island, and penetrates 1 ^ mile to the north-westward, and
is about half a mile broad. It is sheltered from seaward by a small, narrow
island, about three-quarters of a mile in length. North and South, half a mile
southward of the East cape of the port ; this space is full of rocks, so that, to
enter, this island must be rounded to West. Inside there is 14 fathoms water,
and farther inside, 6 to 4i fathoms, sandy bottom. A high rock, lying E. ^ N.,
9^ miles from the entrance, and 2^ miles from the nearest coast, will point out
the situation of this harbour.
At 6 miles N.N.E. from the East point of Amlia, M. KlotschkofF, an officer
of the Russian marine, commanding a small vessel, the Tschirikoff, for the
American Company, is stated to have discovered a high reck, of 20 fathoms in
diameter, on which he foimd an immense number of sea-calves.
The strait between Amlia and Atkha is not more than 1 ^ mile broad, is still
fiirther narrowed by some rocks, and cannot be passed by a sailing vessel, on
account of the furious currents.
ATKHA, or Atcha, is the largest and principal of this group. The length
of the island, from the S.W. extremity to the farthest point to the N.E., is
more than 50 nautic miles. And here we find the same feature, so general in
the eastern group, of a narrow and low S.W. extremity, enlarging and increasing
in height to the N.E. Like the Peninsula of Makouchin, on Ounalashka, the
North part of Atkha also forms a peninsula, crowned with high mountains, the
northernmost of which is the active and smoking volcano, called Korovinskot,
lying on the North coast, and 4,988 ft. in height. Seen from the N.E., it pre-
sents two summits, and on the North is very steep, and the shore inaccessible.
At 4 miles to the South rises the volcano of Klutchevskoi, and not far from the
N.E. extremity is another. The base of the Korovinskoi volcano advances to
the North into the sea, forming a rocky escarpment, which is the North ex-
tremity of the island. To the East of this cape the coast trends to the S.E. by E.
On the other side it runs nearly on the parallel without curvature to the N.W.
extremity, called Cape Potainikoff, and forms a low, even, flat point, and drop-
ping perpendicularly. It is thus called or account of a reef 'extending Uu'nco ?
miles to the westward. On the cape is a steep, conical volcanc . 1' rom < h' <
the high and cliffy coast runs to the southward, to the low and nurrow i8tti'^''^ui
ANDREANOFF ISLANDS— ATKHA.
679
of Sergheieff. Its West extremity, Cape Korovinskaia, rises out of the sea in
a steep cliflP, with many slips.
Korovinskaia Bay, which opens to the West, is formed hy the large penin-
sula and the connecting isthmus. Two coves form the harbour of Korovinskaia,
which is perfectly sheltered, hut has an extremely difficult entrance between
tw o very low spits of grav jl. Mr. Dall found the harbour nearly useless, having
silted up, and not more than 12 ft. could be carried over the bar.
The outer bay is 6^ m:le& broad in its opening. There is only anchorage on
the North side, in 14 fr.thoms, before the entrance to the harbour. It is without
danger in the fine season, but in autumn terrible gales, passing from N.W. to
N.E., occur, when a ship could net remain here ; and at such times the entrance
is covered with breakers for several weeks together.
There are two villages upon Atkha. That called Nikolskoi, on the South
side of the inner harbour of Korovinskaia, consisted of a few houses for the em-
ployes of the Russian Company, a church, &c., and is in a low and damp situa-
tion, and has many disadvantages. There are about 300 natives on the island.
One great inconvenience of Atkha is the extreme scarcity of provisions.
There are two coves on the South side of Korovinskaia Bay. That nearest
to the isthmus is only worthy of attention from the fact that fossil wood is
found here, which may be an indication of coal. The other cove, Sarannaia,
is to the S.W. of the former, and is the only place where a ship can anchor
conveniently, and also may procure water.
At 6 miles south-westward of Cape laitchnoi, and 2 or 3 miles off shore, is
the solitary island Soleny (salt) ; it is small, and not high, and between it and
i\o. (Aii^ is the long Staritchkoff Reef. Beyond Cape laitchnoi the North coast
o' iikiu ■curves to the S.W., and forms several bays, which are open and un-
imr 'itii)');. To the eastward of Soleny Island, and to the South of a cape
£.>:.£. fioiP that island, is the deep bay of Gloubokaia, which, it is said, affords
excfcil: t slvlter. To the S.E. of Soleny Island is a landlocked bay, in which
are sonit oxcellent harbours.
Cape Tolstoi projects considerably into the sea. On its East side is an open
bay ; ju its West side is Kovurovskaia Bay, extending first south-eastward, and
ther. eastward. It is 24 or 25 miles from Korovinskaia Harbour, and, in fine
•<■, oather, is serviceable, but in bad or foggy weather its entrance is difficult.
On the S.W. side of Cape Tolstoi is a conical peak, which rises high and
solated near the coast ; and between this and Koniuji Island, at some miles in
*\v^ offing, are the islets which shelter the bay. Steer for the largest of them,
J 1 romul it carefully by the lead, and, when once it is doubled, the entrance
IS not difficult. Near the cape lying near the conical peak, called for this
reason Fodsajjolclinoi (under the peak), is a sunken rock, which only breaks at
times. To avoid this, pass between the islands.
coast trends 4 miles S
" roni
cape
by
i
Cape
Bttchvvimkoi, from which a reef extends for IJ mile to the north-westward j
^^im.\
I
j
;!i
680
THE ALEUTIAN ARCHIPELAGO.
' 1
and in this direction, at 8 or 9 miles from the coast, is the small island
Koniouge, which is an enormous rock, perpendicular to the North, and a low
point to the S.W. Its surface is constantly changing from volcanic effects,
and the Aleutes say that it regularly and slowly keeps rising out of the water :
around and on it are an innumerahle number of birds.
Beyond Cape Betchevinskoi the coast turns to the South, and forms a shallow
bay which penetrates 2 or 3 miles inland, the bottom being separated from the
South coast of Atkh ^ '^) ^k narrow, marshy isthmus, not more than 300 yards
broad. Beyond this d' i trends 2 miles to W.S.W., not far from the
mountains, and then turn- ,.'n to the South, forming two small bays. Beyond
this again the coast extends northward and westward, and then forms an obtuse
bluff cape ; then at a mile farther, another peaked cape ; after which the
island narrows so as to be not more than one-third of a mile broad, and forms
a low, sandy isthmus. To the south-westward of this isthmus a mountain, the
last in the island, forms the S.W, extremity of Atkha, distant 37 or 38 miles
from the village in a direct line, and about 18 miles from Cape Tolstoi.
It may be said that there is no summer in Atkha ; for during those months
fogs and rain are particularly prevalent. In winter, on the contrary, the
weather is generally clear. The island has abundant evidence everywhere of
its volcanic fires.
Kattatotchy Island, which bears W. by N. J N., 9 or 10 miles from the
mountain on the S.W. extremity of Atkha, is an extinct volcano. It is a
mountain rising at once out of the sea, the crater on its summit being stated to
be full of water.
Tohastie Islands, a group of small but high islands to the West of Atkha,
are thus called {tchastie, crowded) from their arrangement. There are thir-
teen of different sizes, and six large isolated rocks. The island nearest to Atkha
is Oglodah, 3i miles distant. It is high, steep, and without landing. These
islands are said to be unapproachable, from the strong tide-races and currents
which rush between them.
Sitkhin Island, which, to distinguish it from another of the same name to
the West, is sometimes called East or Great Sitkhin, is in lat. 52° 4' or 5', and
about long. 176° 10' (centre). It is about 25 miles in circumference, and in its
centre is a volcano covered with perpetual snow, which was ascertained by
M. Inghestrom to be 5,033 English feet in elevation.
Adakh is a large mountainous island, but lower than Sitkhin ; it is covered
with perpetual snow in some parts. Its North end is in about lat. 52° 3'.
The bay on the North side is open, and there are others on the N.E., South,
and V.'esi Bidec ; that to the South offers the best shelter. It is separated
by a small isthmus from the bay on the West coast. About the middle of the
N.W. side of the island is the Bay of Islands, with good anchorage behind
one of the islands. The position and details of the island are very imperfect,
as are also those of the next island.
KRYCI OR RAT ISLANDS.
681
all island
ind a low
c effects,
e water :
Kanaga, or Konniaga, is the island next West to Adakh, to which it is
similar in size, being about 28 miles in length, by 5 miles in breadth. The
northern part of this island is remarkable by a high smoking volcano, one of
the most lofty in the chain ; the rest of the island is not very high. Near to
its western part is a small island bearing the name of the Isle of Otters. These
islands, however, are but incorrectly delineated and placed on the charts.
Tanaga is separated from Kanaga by a channel 2 leagues broad, extending
8 leagues in a north-easterly direction. It is about 27 miles in extent, from
E. by N. to W. by S., and of irregular breadth. It is easily distinguished by
an elevated volcano, which stands at its S.W. point. Near the point is a bay,
which Sarytscheff visited ; the entrance may be about 4 miles broad, and it is
about 8 miles deep. At this distance, in the North part of the bay, the vessel
in which he penetrated anchored on a bottom of fine black sand, in front of
the entrance of two rivers. Watering is very easily performed in this bay, the
boats ascending the rivers without any obstacles.
About 20 miles S.W. * W. of the North point of Tanaga is Goreloy or Burnt
Island, with a circumference of 6 leagues. It has a very high volcano, whose
summit is covered with perpetual snow; and M. Inghestriim considers this
volcano, and those on Kanaga and Tanaga, as the highest in the Aleutian chain.
However, later observations do not confirm this.
South of this is a small group, the chief of which are the two small Dilaroff
Islands, which, with those South of it, form the westernmost of the group of
the Andreanoffsky Islands. Sarytscheff found the passage between them and
the S.W. point of Tanaga quite clear.
At some distance eastward of the eastern islet are two rocks. At about 12
miles southward of Goreloy is a third island, Kakhvalga ; and a few miles
westward of the latter is Ounalga, a low island. Ulak, also low, and the
largest of all, is to the southward of Tanaga.
Amatignak and Illak are also two islands to the southward of these again.
The southernmost, Amatignak (" a chip " in Aleute), is the larger of the two,
and the highest of all.
M*
KRYCI OR RAT ISLANDS.
The islands next West of the foregoing are included by Liitke and others
under the above denomination.
Semiaopoohnoi. — About 50 miles West of Goreloy or Burnt Island is the
Itle of the Seven Mountains. The name (Semisopochnoi) is significant of its
character. It is of a circular form, and is 10 leagues in circumference.
According to M. Inghestriim, its lat. is 51° 59', and its long. 179" 45' 57" E.
The mountains do not much exceed 3,000 ft. in height. One of the mountains
in the North part sends forth smoke. The North and East sides have a wild
Iforth Fac\fic. 4 8
■iHk
^^
r.
688
THE ALEUTIAN ARCHIPELAGO.
and desolate aspect. ; on the South and West there are aereral green spots.
The shores are in general clear.
The strait between Semisopochnoi and Ooreloy is the best for crossing the
Aleutian chain. It is safe throughout, is not less than -i5 miles broad, and is
not subject to tide races.
Amtohitka is a large island; it is not very hilly, and extends about 10
leagues W.N.W. and E.S.E. Near its West point are two small islands, the
larger of which is called Hat Island, a name, as above mentioned, which has
been extended to the whole group. Behring probably saw this island on
October 25th, and gave it the name of St. Maroiau (Markiana). He says it
was moderately high, and covered with snow.
It is low, and is not more than 4 miles wide at the S.E. part, but is
broader and higher in the N.W. Its S.E. extremity forms a peninsula, on
which a hillock rises, and from it a reef extends for 2 miles. The South
coast runs nearly in a straight line, without any bays or coves. At about a
third the length of the island a chain of moderately high mountains rises, and
falls again toward the N.W. extremity, where it forms a low but steep cape,
called by the Aleutes Satanna, or Bird's Cape.
On the North side of the island, at 10 miles firom its East end, is Kirilovskaia
Bay, which was stated to be the only place in the island where you cun stay at
anchor. This anchorage it. jomewhat sheltered from seaward by a reef off its
middle, which requires caution in entering ; there are also some reefs on either
side of it. It is dangerous to remain here in autumn or winter, when northerly
gales are prevalent. The lat. of the hay is 61° 27' 1", long. 179° 20' E. High
water occurs about 10 o'clock, at full and change.
However, when it was visited by Mr. Dall, in 1873, he found nowhere more
than 3 fathoms of water, and only the smallest class of vessels could enter it.
The schooner Yukon anchored in Constanline Harbour, on the North side of
the S.E. end of the island.
To the N.W. of Amtchitka are the Tschegoula Isles, a group of four small
hilly islands, which extend about 6 leagues. One of these is called by Liitke
Little or West Sitkhin, another is named Davydoff.
Kryci, Rat, or Ayougadagh Island, which gives its name to the group, is 7
miles long, mountainous, and in lat. 51° 45', long. 178° 10' E.
Kilka, a hilly island, with the exception of its eastern part, which is low,
lies to the W. by N. of the preceding. Its length, N.E. by E. and S.W. by W.,
is 25 miles. A rock, in the form of a column, lies 3 miles N.W. of the island.
Behring saw the island October 28, 1741, and he named it St. Stephan. Accord-
ing to M. Inghcstrbm, there exists to the East of Kiska, at 1^ mile distant, a
small isle, which he called Little Kiska; and 3 miles from this, in the same
direction, the small island Tannadagh, and a rock. He also mentions some
rocks, which do not uncover, between the islands Bouldyr and Kiska, at the
distance of 5 leagues from the former. Capt. Liitke, however, considers this
BLIJNl OROUP-ATTOU.
683
position as doubtful. Some other detached rocks are stated to lie in the
channel eastward of the island. Capt. Hague, S.S. Dora, 1884, reports that
he observed a reef with kelp on it, over which the sea broke, about 5 miles
eastward of the N.E. point of Kiska.
The harbour of Kiska is a noble bay, perfectly protected from all winds,
with good holding ground and a moderate depth of water. The entrance is
wide enough to enable a sailing vessel to beat in or out at any time. There
are lo hidden dangers, and the depth of water is sufficient for any vessel. —
Mr. W. H. Ball.
Booldyr lies to the W.N.W. of Kiska. It is a hilly island, surrounded by
peaked rocks, which extend to half a league beyond the S.W. point of the
island. It is about 4 leagues in circumference, and two large rocks exist at the
western part of the island.
BLIJNl GROUP.
This group, composed of two islands and a collection of separate rocks, is
called Blij'ni, or Near Islands, because it is the nearest to Kamchatka, of the
Aleutian chain. The discovery belongs to Behring.
Semitsch forms a portion of this westernmost group of the Aleutian Islands.
It consists of two small islands half a league apart, and extending E. by S. and
W. by N., 6 or 7 miles, with some rocks beyond the East end. On the charts
of Sarytsche£f and the Russian Admiralty a group of rocks, named Ingestem,
was inserted, as lying 16 leagues to the E. by S. of the Isle of Attou. Their
distance from the S.E. extremity of the Semitsch group is estimated at 10
miles in an E. by S. J S. direction, but their position is very doubtful.
Agatton, to the S.W. ) S. of the Semitsch Islands, according to Sary tschelF,
has a circumference of 34 miles. It is separated from Attou by a strait of 1 5
or 20 miles wide.
ATTOU is one of the largest of the Aleutian Islands, and has about 220 in-
habitants. Its eastern extreme lies 18 miles W. by N. from the Semitsch
Islands. According to Capt. Golownin's observations, in 1808, it is 27^ miles
in length, East and West ; but Admiral Sarytecheff makes it 48 miles long. In
the S.E. part of the island is a bay called Massacre Bay. It is about 3 miles
wide, and midway between the two outer capes is a group of small islets and
rocks, within which there also appears to be a low reef, and another lies out-
side them, half a mile to the S.W. Lieutenant Etolin discovered on the North
coast of Attou an excellent bay, which he called Tschitschagoff Bay, where
the BuBsian-American Company had an establishment. It is in lat. 52° 56',
and 9 miles from the eastern point of the island.
This is the western extremity of the Aleutian chain, which forms the south-
eastern limit of the Sea of Behring. The two islands lying near the coast of
Kamohatkai Copper and Behring Islands, 180 miles to the N.W., might almost
m
m
m^
BEimiNG SKA.
be considered as a continuation of the chain, but, as they are more connected
with the western coast, they are described hereafter in connection with it.
Attou is the westernmost of the islands ceded by Russia to the United States,
being so mentioned in the treaty. The territorial division passes midway be*
tween it and Copper Island, and then in a straight line to the middle of Behring
Strait.
'« i:
BEHBINO SEA.
The extensire landlocked sea which bears the name of its great discoverer
has been alluded to in the introduction to this chapter. Although very remote
from ordinary commerce, its eastern part has been frequently traversed by
navigators competent to ^escribe its features. Of these. Admirals Beechey,
Kellett, Collinson, Captai . Moore, Trollope, and others, may be cited as having
aided in composing the chart. The one great physical feature is the extensive
bank of soundings which stretches off for 26 to 350 miles from the American
coast, affording an immense anchoring ground for the whaling fleet which fre-
quents its waters. The eastern side, with which we are loss acquainted, is
deeper, causing a great difference in the mode of whale-fishing ; to the eastward,
the animal plunging into the mud in shoal water ; to the westward, diving to
great depth
The whale-fishery has been mentioned in the introductory remarks to this
chapter. But, in addition to their primary pursuit, the whalemen were all
more or less traders, and by their traffic with the natives of the more distant
ports and places, so far interfered with the exclusive privileges of the Russian-
American Company, that the question was made one of justice to the Russians,
that the United States should extinguish this privilege by the payment of a
sum of purchase money.
The shallowness of the northern part of the sea, and of Behring Strait, has a
marked effect on its physical condition. It will not allow of any floating ice-
bergs drifting southwards from the Arctic Sea ; the current generally sets
northward, so that its climate, though severe, is not so inclement as a region
in a corresponding latitude on the opposite side of the American continent. In
consequence of the comparative shallowness of the water, a strong wind will
raise a very ugly sea in a short time.
The seasons of navigation upon the two shores of Behring Sea are usually
somewhat uneven, the ice remaining longer in spring upon the Alaskan coast
than it does on the Siberian shore ; and the reverse in autumn, when the ice
from the Arctic forces its way through Behring Strait, and fills the western
portion of this sea for some distance before ice commences to form on the East
coast.— Cruise of the " Corwin'*
The American side all belongs now to the United States, as before men*
tioned, being included in the Alaska territory. And our task is rendered 8Qm««
riL
tHE PENINSULA Of ALIASKA.
685
what difficult on account of the change of masters, which may induce other
changes of which wc have received no account.
The PENINSULA of ALIASKA,* whose south-eastern coast has been pro*
Tiously described, forms, with the Aleutian Archipelago, the southern limits of
Behring Sea, or, as it has been sometimes called, the Sea of Kamchatka. The
description is therefore resumed at the point where the former left off, namely,
at the Strait of Isanotskoy. The charts are imperfect.
Point Krtnitzin appears to be the first prominent point to the .lorth-eastward.
It is the extremity of a low bed of gravel, and is the N.W. point of an open
bay, on the East side of which is the village Morjovskoi (Morses), standing on
low, marshy land, intersected with numerous lakes.
henbek is the next port in proceeding north-eastward. Its S.W. point. Cape
Glaxenap, or Mitkoff, is in lat. 55° 14' 8", long. 162° 50' 7" W. This cape is
very remarkable by a considerable elevation, and by its form ; at a distance it
is like an island separated from the low land to the South of it. The mouth
of the bay is filled up by a long and very low island, divided into two or three
at high water. Its South point is about a mile distant from Cape Qlazenap,
and its North point above 2 miles from Cape Moffet. The depth in the South
entrance was found to be 4 } and 5 fathoms, bottom of fine black sand. It was
considered that Izcnbek Bay would offer anchorage.
Amah or Aamak Island, lying off this part of the coast, is an extinct vol-
cano, about 2,000 ft. high, covered with calcined stones and lava. It is rather
less than 4 miles in length, in a N.W. and S.E. direction, and the position of
its South extremity is lat. 55° 25', long. 163° 1' 30". At 2 miles N.W. from
its North end is a rock called Sivoutchy (or Sea-lions) Rock. Between the
island and the main the depth is from 9 to 14 fathoms. Shoals are stated to
extend W.N.W. and S.S.E. of it.
The coast to the north-eastward presents nothing very remarkable : it trends
first N. by £. ^ E., and then N.E. f N. For a distance of 50 miles there are
only two capes, Leontovitch and Leskoff, somewhat higher than the rest. In
this space there is much drift-wood. Cape Leontovitch is low, but is the most
conspicuous, as beyond it the coast trends more to the East.
Cape Rojnoff or Roshnoff, which is at the extremity of the extent of coast
above alluded to, is very low ; and at IJ mile from it is the western point of
Kritskoi Island, also very low ; the two form the entrance to a shallow bay,
which runs in to a low isthmus, about 3 miles in breadth, separating it from
Pavlovskaia Bay, on the South coast of Aliaska. The chain of mountains which
extends through the peninsula is interrupted in this part. The rise of the tide
is 16 ft., and the (approximate) time of high water is T*" 30"".
* Captain Liitke says, that in spelling this AliasUa he follows the orthography generally
adopted in the colonies. It was sometimes previously spelt Aliaksa, The natives pronouoM
it Aliaktkha; so that both modes are right or wroog4
i
i
M
m
6M
fiEtmmo sfiA.
HOLLER BAT is a large indentation of the land, which narrows the penin-
sula to 12 miles in breadth at this part. A large portion of this bay is filled
with shoals, which uncover at low water ; but in its S.E. angle is a small cove,
where there is sufficient water for every description of vessels. This is the only
port which exists on all the North coast of Aliaska. It is about a mile in length
and breadth, with from 4^ to 8 fathoms, muddy bottom. In entering it you
must range close to the bed of gravel covering the cove from seaward, to
avoid a shoal which is less than a mile from it ; and as soon as you have made
out this bed of gravel, steer for a point on the East side of the port, which is
particularly remarkable by its blackish colour, and which lies about 1^ mile
N.E. by E. from the extremity of the gravel bed. The mountains, which are
of a moderate height, advance here to the coast, leaving no room for the mossy
plains which generally occupy the space between the foot of the mountains and
the sea-shore.
The bay is about 6 miles wide in its opening. Its entrance on the West side
is formed by the East point of KritaJcoi Island, which was determined to be in
lat. 66° 0' 7", long. 160° 41' W. The extremity of the bed of gravel which
forms the port is 7^ miles to the S.E. by E. from this. Kritskoi Island is very
low, and extends 9 miles along the coast in an E. by N. and W. by S, direction.
Opposite its West end is Cape Rojnoff, before mentioned.
From Moller Bay the coast trends to the N. by E. ^ E., and at 20 miles
distant is Cape Koutouzoff. This cape is high and abrupt, and 13 miles
N. by E. I E. from it is Cape Siniavine, also high and steep, the space between
being low, except two hillocks on the coast, about midway between. Cape
S6niavine is in lat. 56" 23' 45", long. 160' 2' 46" W.
* The coast beyond this offers nothing remarkabli for a considerable distance,
and consists of a low, level, mossy plain. At about 9 leagues from Cape Senia-
vine a low bed of gravel commences, which extends in front of the coast for 10
miles. Beyond this the low level coast extends 10 miles farther to Cape Stro-
gonoff, which is extremely low, and projects 2 miles to the North.
Comte Heiden Bay (or Houdobin Bay) is formed by the low .Cape Strogo-
noff to the westward. Before this cape is an islet, equally low, called on the
chart Chestahoff Islet, and between this islet, or rather between the shoal off
its North end, and the coast of the continent, is the entrance of the bay, which
extends 6 miles to the S.E., and the opening is 2i miles broad.
From this the coast, equally low, uniform, and covered with moss, trends
to the N. by E. In lat. 57° 5' are two moderately high capes, terminating to
seaward in sandy downs.
Cape Menchikoff (named after the Prince) is in lat. 57° 30' 4", long.
157° 58' 5", and consists of a mound of sand, with marshy land surrounding it
on all sidfts. At 8 miles N. by E. from this is the mouth of the River Ougatchik,
or Soulima, which is 2 miles broad, and has a depth in its entrance of from 10
to 18 ft. at low water. The North point of its mouth, named Cape Greig after
%:s^-
BRISTOL BAY.
687
the Admiral, is high and steep ; it is in lat. 57° 43', long. 157° 47' 2", and is
surrounded by sand-banks, dry at low water. From this the coast trends, low,
level, and straight, in a general N. i W. direction to the mouth of the Agougak
River.
The Biver Agongak, or Ugagouk, Krusenstem considers to be the northern
limit of the Peninsula of Aliaska, as it really separates Aliaska from the con-
tinent of America. It rises in a lake called Nanouantoughat, which is only
separated from the Strait of Chelighoff by a neck of land 5 miles in breadth,
at the back of the Bay of Poualo. Over this space was a portage for the mer-
chandise collected by the Russian-American Fur Company at the establish-
ments in Bristol Bay, which was thus transported, by means of the river, to
the head-quarters at Sitka.
The breadth of the river is about 2 miles at its mouth, and at about 7 miles
N.E. from it is a hill, which, with Cape Tschitchagoff, serves to point out the
position of the entrance. Its shores are very low, particularly the South side.
The current is very rapid, the tide rising 20 ft.
Cape Tschitchagoff, on the North side, is bluff without being high, and sur-
rounded for 2 miles distant by shoals dry at low water.
From this cape a level marshy coast succeeds. Its aspect is most extraor-
dinarily monotonous, and for 30 miles in a North direction there is only one
spot, in about lat. 58° 35', where there is a hill, which rises about 200 yards
from the sea, forming an elevation like a wall composed of sand and clay.
Cape Souvoroff, which is at the distance above named, forms the North point
of the mouth of the River Nanek or Naknek. This river, flowing from a lake
of the same name, traverses the Peninsula of Aliaska. At its mouth it is about
two-thirds of a mile in breadth, and there is 2 fathoms water in it. On each
side of the mouth are villages ; that to the right is Kouichougoumut, that to
the left Faougvigumut. The position of the latter, which was a Russian esta-
blishment, named Souvoroff, was ascertained to be in lat. 58° 42' 5" N., long.
157° 0' 30" W. The River Nanek abounds with an extraordinary quantity of
fish. From the evidences seen on its borders, the tide rises in the river tj
30 ft.
BBISTOL BAY. — The coast we have been describing forms the southern
portion of the coast of this bay, which was named by Captain Cook after the
Admiral, the Earl of Bristol. This great indentation was sailed around by
Capt. Cook, but the shoals which obstruct it prevented his making a detailed
examination of its shores. Lieut. Chramtschenko, an officer of merit, who
accompanied Kotzebue in the Rurick, was sent in 1821 to examine it in detail,
and subsequently to 1821, he, together with M. Etoline, a naval officer in the
Russian- American Company's service, were annually despatched, in two vessels,
to explore the American coasts. To these officers we owe the more accurate
knowledge of all the coast from Cape Newenham to Norton Sound, which Capt.
Cook could not approach on account of the shoal water.
i
:m
'^^y
I
088
■^;!
BEHRING SEA.
Cape Newenham formf the northern point of this baj', and Capo Ounimuk,
tho western point of the Lland of that name off' Aliaska, may be taken as its
southern limit ; the lattei lies 270 miles South of Cape Newenham, so that tiie
N.W. c«.'a8t of Aliaska forms the southi'-n part of Bristol Bay.
This bay contains another inner bay, which is formed by a promontory, named
Cape Consiantine, and within which three rivers debouch. The northernmost
of these is the Bristol Jtiver. Tbo Oiiglaghnioutes (as the natives of the bay
are called) give it the name of Quitsh'ik, or Kticha.k. The Ougaguk, on the
opposite side, ha? been before described.
The third rivisr which enters this inner bay, to thA 'westward of the Bristol
River, is called Nouchagak, or Xoushagak, its course being in a northerly
direction. The opening farmed 0.1 the North by the coast, and by Cape Con-
stantine on the South, may be taken as its mouth, which is 20 miles broad, and
preserves this breadth to the distance of 30 miles ; it then turns rather more to
the eastward, and its breadth begins to diminish. In lat. 58° 57' the river is
still 3 miles broad, and it is here, on tho left bank, that the Russian Company
founded an establishment, called Fort Alexandroffsk or Alexandra. A bank,
15 miles in length, lies before this establishment; and it is between this bank
and the main iand that there is a passage to the road of Alexandroffsk. The
tides are very strong in the river ; they rise 23 ft. in the summer months, and
47 ft. in the autumn. The ebb tide runs from 4 to 5 miles an hour.
The extremity of Cape Constantino is in lat. 58° 29' N., long. 158° 45' W.
It is surrounded by sand-banks .,0 the distance of 4 leagues to the southward.
In ge leral, all the coast betv'een the mouths of the Nouchagak and Bristol
Rivers is bounded by similar sand-banks. The eastern point of the bay, form-
ing the entrance of the Nouchagak, is named Cape Etoline, the bank extending
off which narrows the eritrance of the river to 7 miles in breadth. The bay
itself is called Khramf.schenko Bay. after the Russian surveyor.
From Cape Cor>staiitine the coast uxkes a westerly direction, and forms, with
Cape Newenham, an extensive bay of 105 miles in extent, into which the two
rivers, Kululah and Tujugiak, discharge themselves. There are several islands
in this bay ; Cook only saw the easternmost, which he named Round Island,
and this is an elevated hii!, cbout 7 miles from the coast. At the distance of
20 miles to the westward of Round Island is a larger one, about 50 miles in
circumference, which has been named Hagemeister Islund, after the captain of
that name, who was for some time commander of the Russian Company's
colonies here. Between Calm Point, its southern point, and Roimd Island,
there are four other islands in a north-easterly direction. Lieut. Khramtschenko
passed between these islands, and between the main land and Hagemeister
Island. This channel is about 8 miles in length, and it nxay be passed through
either from the North or South ; the anchorage in it is safe throughout. About
24 miles W.S.W. of Calm Pnint is Cape Peirce, behind which, according to
Khramtschenko, there is a small bay which affords anchorage.
CAPK NEWENIIAM— NUNIWACK ISLAND.
CfiO
CAPE NEWENHAM, 13 miles to tho W. | S. of this bay, was seen by
Captain Cook, July ICth, 1778, and was so named by his lieutenant, Mr.
Williamson, who landed here. It is n rocky point of tolerable height, situated
in lat. 58° 42', long. 162° 5'. Over, or within it, or«> two elevated hills, rising
one behind tho other, the innermost, or easternmost, being the higher. Tlie
country produces neither tree nor shrub, and the hills are naked.
Off tho westernmost point of the cape there is a small island, according to
the Russian charts, named Sea Lions' Island. From Cape Newenham tho
coast trends to tho northward, and here commence the sand-banks and shoals
lying before tho mouth of the great river Kuskowime, or Kouskoijiiim, which
discharges itself into the sea in lat. 59° 60', and which was explored by Lieuts.
Khramtschcnko and Etoline. There are many villages on its banks. Off tho
entrance, and about midway between Capes Newenham and Avinoff, a 9-feet
shoal is marked on the chart.
About 18 miles N.E. by N. of Cape Newenham is Tchayxan Bay, 4 J miles
long, and 3 miles broad. It is 2 cables wide at the entrance, the sides of which
are lined with shoals.
The Bay of Good News, 16 miles N.W. J N. from Tchagvan Bay, was
reached by the land expedition of Oustugoff and Korsakoff in 1818—19. If
it received its name from the reports gathered of some white-bearded men on
the banks of the Kvikhpak River, it would be more properly called the Bay of
False Alarms. It was examined in 1821 by M. Etoline. From his observations,
the extremity of the gravel bed, which bounds the opening of the bay to the
North, is in lat. 59° 3' 9", long. 101° 53'. 24 miles North of Cape Newenham.
It penetrates 8^ miles in a N.N.E. direction, and is 5^ miles broad, but its
entrance is narrowed by beds of gravel to a width of half a mile. Its shores
are surrounded with shoals, so that there is only good anchorage in the middle,
and that not too far in. In entering, keep on the North side. It is high
water, on full and change, at about 6^ 15"; the greatest rise being 13 to 16 ft.
Capt. Cook endeavoured to proceed northward along this coast, and pene-
trated to lat. 59° 37 J', but was prevented from getting farther from the shallow-
ness and intricacy of the channel. He then attempted to proceed to the west-
ward, but it was not until he had returned nearly to the parallel of Cape
Newenham, by the same route, that he could get to the West, clear of the
banks of sand and stones which confine it.
Under a line drawn from the North point of Goodnews Bay to Cape Avinoff,
the greatest depth between the shoals is 8 fathoms. In lat. 69° 48' is the bar
with only 2 fathoms, end a little lower down the channel is divided by a sand-
bar which has 6 fathoms in the narrow channel to the East, and only two in
the broader western one. — Mr. W. H. Dall.
NUNIWACK ISLAND,* discovered by Captain Wassilieff in 1821, lies
• Nuniwack, or, as it is otherwise spelt, Nounivak, or Nounivok (Liitke), was so uumed
North Facific. 4 i
■W
WM
1 1)
if I 5:
690
BEIIRING SEA.
/ri
ii •
.1^ i
!
\V. by N., 130 miles distant from Cape Ncwonham. It is about 55 miles iu
extent K. by N. and W. by S., and about half that in breadth. Cape Etoline,
its N.E. extremity, is in lat. 60° 27' N., long. IGfi'' 10' \V., and its S.E. point
is in lat. 60° N., long. 16;')° 22' W. A channel, 25 miles in breadth, separates
it from the continent, which l>cre forms a large cape in lat. 60° 35' N., long.
165° 20' W,, discovered by M. I'Holiue, to which he gave the name of Ccipe
Vancouver, and that of Cook to the strait, now named Etoline. The average
depth in the strait ib 5 to 8 fathoms, deeper toward the island.
Cape Etoline lies about 25 miles S.W. of Cape Vancouver, and has a sunken
rock off it. The West extreme, which forms a moderately high, steep cape,
is in lat. 60° 10'. From this the N.W. coast trends N.E., and the S.W. coast
to E. by S. ^ S. In approaching it from the West, the island presents a level
coast, not high, and terminating to seaward in reddish cliffs. There are several
places where anchorage may be found ; but the best place is in the strait on
the continental side, where the depth is 6 to 8 fathoms, gravel bottom. Several
villages were seen on the island.
The Corivin found good anchorage, with shelter from a S.W. gale, on its
North side, about 20 miles from the West end, off a small native settlement.
The natives were very shy.
Cape Avinoff, the S.E. limit of Etoline Strait, is in lat. 59° 40'. It is not
high, but at a distance resembles an island. It is surrounded by shoals to the
distance of 7 or 8 miles, so that it cannot be approached even in a boat within
this distance. This bank lines the coast as far as Cape "N'ancouver itself. On
the North side of (.'ape Vancouver is a wide and shallow indentation of the
coast, named Etoline or Hazen Bay.
CAPE ROMANZOFF, or Roumiantsoff, was thus named after the great
statesman by MM. Khramtschenko and Etoline, although Capt. Schischmareff
had already seen it two months previously, that is, in June, 1821. It forms
the western extremity of the vast and marshy delta of the Yukon River. M.
Etoline determined its lat. as 61° 53' ; M. Khramtschenko as 61° 50' 5' ; and
its long, is about 166° 13'. It is thus about 80 miles N.W. { N. from Cape
Vancouver. It is high and bluff, and in the middle of August was still partly
covered with snow, whitli well distinguishes it from the low and sandy sliorcs
to the North and South of it. It is entirely free from wood, like the adjacent
coasts. When seen from a great distance, it shows like islands.
Between this cape and Stuart Island, to the N.N.E., the coast is low and
marshy, with here and there capes and small hills, and intersected by the
mouths of the River Yukon. The sandy shoals which line this space, accord-
ing to what the inhabitants say, do not reach to the coast itself, but leave be-
by the Company's officers, EtolinBand Khramtschonko, who, Bimultttuoously wiih Wussilioff,
discovered it in l«L'l, iiftor tho native app«'.Ilalion. Tho lutlor culled it, from his hliiu,
DUcofei-y Ulmd, but tho first name is £ar tho bast.
InvimnNBLaii
mmsimmmmm
THE YUKON RITER.
691
5 miles iu
ue Etuline,
S.E. point
, separates
N., long.
le of Cape
\xc average
s a sunken
teep cape,
S.W. coast
;nts a level
are several
B strait on
m. Sever.ll
ale, on its
settlement.
It is not
loals to the
)oat within
itself. On
ion of the
the great
lischm/irefF
It forms
Kiver. M.
0' 5' ; and
from Cape
still partly
ndy shores
e adjacent
s low and
id by the
e, accord-
leave be-
ll Wussilioff,
tween a chnnncl deep enough for ships ; it is only off the river mouths that it
)■• broken by other banks, between which are tlio passes. Outside this exten-
sive shoal two j-atches of 4^ fathoms have been reported, one about 4(7 miles
W. J S. -irom the West end of Stuart Island, and the other 25 miles farther to
S. by W. J W.
The YUKON RIVER is one of the largest of North-West America ; yet
our knowledge of its existence dates from very recent times. Its character wa.i
first made known to Europe by the Expedition in 1850 — l,and one of Captain
(afterwards Admiral) CoUinaon's officers, Lieut. Barnard, was killed at Nulato
by the natives, in ascending it. But the officers of the Russian-American
Company first ascended it in 1835. Derabin went from Norton Sound to the
river in 1839, and in 1842 commenced the Fort at Nulato, which long bore his
name. It was visited in the same year by Lieut. Zagoskin, I.R.N. , who made
many observations here.
The Yukon or Kwich-pak (pronounced Kwif-pak, both words signifying
"big river"), is an immense stream. At Nulato, 600 miles above its mouth,
but only 50 miles from the head of Norton Sound, the river is from ^ to 4 or
6 miles wide, and it has been ascended, still as a large stream, for 1,800 miles.
Its tributaries would be large streams in Europe. But all this magnificence of
nature seems doomed to be almost useless to man.
At one period it was of the greatest interest to civilization. It was selected
by ihe Western Union Telegraph Company as the route by which the telegraph
wires were to connect the New and the Old World; and, as before stated, this
gigantic enterprise had far advanced, when, in 1867, the success of the Atlantic
cable led to its sudden abandonment, an event which caused so much sorrow in
those employed on it, that they hung black cloth on the telegraph poles at
Unalachleet, in Norton Sound, and put them into mourning.
Mr. Frederick Whymper's admirable work on his travels in Alaska, and on
the Yukon, will give many most interesting particulars of this enterprise and of
the river.*
The Yukon enters Norton Sound by many mouths, forrr.'ng an extensive
delta. The turbid waters have so filled up the head of the sound, that it is
very shallow, and the water is fresli 10 miles out to sea.
'I'he various entrances were examined by Capt. E. Everett Smith, attached
to the telegraph party, and he found that the southern mouth, the Koosilvuc,
gave from 2i to 9 fathoms, but the entrance to it is far out. The intermediate
mouths to the North are too shallow, and the Aphoon Moutk, o\>tv'\n^ into the
• Sen, al80, a Paper by tho sumo author in the Journal of the Royal OeoRrnphioal Society,
vol. xxxviii., ISOS, pp. 219- 2 SB ; " Alaska and its Uosourcos," l)y Mr. W. H. Dnll ; and
»n intcivKtiii^' Piper ))y Mr. K. W. Ni'lson, U. S. iSifrnal Service, "A olcdge Journey in
the Doha of the Yukon," pnhlishod in tho Proeocdiiigs of the Royal Cruographical Society,
^'uvenlber, 1882, pp. GGO - 070, with a Map.
■li
f
«dd
BEHRING SIU.
i
I
t
Kwiklipak montli of the river, is the only available one, and has a depth of 3
fathoms. The mouth of the Kwikhpak is in about lat. G2^ 40', long. 163^ 55'.
The Aphoon, or Uphoon, is also entered by a channel from Pastolik Bay. These
snoutha are generally blocked with ice till June 1st. At the latter mouth is
Pastolik, a village famous for the manufacture of skin boats.
The coast trends to the N.N.W. beyond Pastolik, past Cape Romanoff, a
solitary rounded hill, towards Stuart and St. Michael Islands, southward of
which it turns to N.E. by E. ^ E.
Stnart Island, in lat. 63° 35', is 6 or 7 leagues in circuit. Some parts of it
are of a moderate height ; but in general it is low, with some rocks lying off
the western part. One might anchor in 5 fathoms between the N.E. side of
this island and the continent, but wholly exposed to northerly winds. Also in
the North entrance to the channel between the islands, where 3 fathoms may
be obtained. The coast of the continent is for the most part low land, but
high laud is seen up the country. It forms a point opposite the island, which
was named by Cook Cajye Stephens, and lies in lat. 63" 33', long. 162° 19'; this
is the North extremity of St. Michael Island.
Some drift-wood was seen upon the shores both of the island and of the
continent, but not a tree was perceived growing upon either. The inhabitants
of Norton Sound are entirely dependent on this drift-wood, brought down by
the great Kiver Yukon, and which is found on almost every part of its shores.
St. Michael Island, to the eastward of Stuart Islimd, is 63 miles N. by E. ^ E.
from the Kwikhpak mouth. It can scarcely be oalled an island, as it is sepa-
rated from the main only by an insignificant canal, the bar at its eastern en-
trance having only 5 ft. over it at spring tides.
Chaktolimont Bay, called by Cook Chacktoolc, is an open bay to the north-
ward of St. Michael Island, between Capes Denbigh and Stephens. It is sur-
rounded by a low shore, where the water is so shoal that there is no passage
for ships between Besborough Island and the main, though it is 6 or 7 miles
off it. Capt. Cook anchored in the bay, but he stated that it is but an in-
different anchorage. There was very little rise of tide.
Tebenkoif Cove, on the East end of St. Michael Island, was discovered in
1831 by Lieut. Tebenkoff, an energetic employe of the Russian Company. It
penetrates IJ^ mile to the S.S.W,, and is closed on the South by a small low
island, on each side of which is a strait. The bay is not more than a mile
broad, and at its West extremity are two islets, very close to the coast. As far
ns the middle of the bay there is 21 to 24 ft. of water. The anchorage under
the West side, opposite the village, is only exposed to N.N.W. and N.E. ; but
even with these winds there is no heav)' sea.
REDOUBT ST. MICHAEL (formerly Fort Michaelovshi) ia situated in
Tebenkoff Cove, southward of the villages, and was founded by Lieut. 'J.'eboukoff
in 1833. H.M.S. Herald came here in September, 1843, and Dr. Sceman thus
describei the place. The Fort of St. Michael, or Michaelovskoi, then belonyod
REtDOUBt St. MICHAEt.— UNAtACHLEEt.
m
to the Russian-American Fur Company, and supplied two other trading posts,
situated some distance in the interior. It is now a trading station of the
Alaska Commercial Company, and stands on a little tongue of land, in lat.
63° 28^^', long, about 162° 3' W. It is built in the form of a square, composed
of trunks of trees, which arc laid horizontally over each other, in the manner
of the American block-houses. At each angle is a watch-tower, with loop-
holes; within '.~ 'valls are the various store and dwelling houses ; close by, a
chapel, consecrated to the rites of the Greek Church ; and at a short distance
a windmill for grinding corn. Grain is imported by way of Sitka, St. Michael
itself not producing it, nor indeed any cultivated vegetables, except a few
turnips. About four hundred yards from the fort is an Esquimaux village, the
inhabitants of which are a much finer-looking race than the more northern
tribes. The country adjacent is, like the greater part of the Arctic regions, a
vast moorland.
Mr. Frederick Whymper came here with the telegraph party in 186.5, and
he says that the station is built on the model of a Hudson Bay Company's
Fort, with enclosure of pickets, and with bastions flanking it. Inside are the
store-houses and dwellings of the employes, including the " casine" (caserne),
or general barrack, bath, and cook-houses. These painted yellow, and sur-
mounted by red roofs, gave it rather a gay appearance. The inhabitants of the
fort — all servants of the Company — were a very mixed crowd.
The entrance into the cove is not at all difficult After reaching Stuart
Island you can run parallel with the coast at the distance (if a mile in not less
than 4 fathoms water ; then you can range very close to the two ish ts .m the
West side of the cove. Coming from the North you must make either Bes-
borough or Egg Islands ; the first lies to the North of the cove, and the second
at 12 miles to the N.E. lu/g Island is smaller and lower than Besborough,
and about it there is anchorage in 3^ fathoms.
Two and a half fothoms may be carried well up into the cove, until opposite
the boat-house. This is the best place for small vessels. The rise of tide will
not average over 4 ft., and depends much upon the wind. Fresh fish, game,
or deer meat, can usually be obtained here by vessels. Good water can be pro-
cured on the shore of the mainland, in a small rocky cove opposite the Redoubt.
—Mr. W. H. Ball.
TJnalachleet, or Unalaklik, about 40 miles N.E. by N. ^ N. from Redoubt
St. Michael, is at the mouth of a small river of the same name, and was a
Russian post founded in 1840. According to Lieut. Zagoskin, it is in lat.
63° 53' 33" N., long. 160" 30' 16"; later observations place it about 13 miles
farther westward. Mr. Whymper states thfit it resembles St. Miciiael in being
enclosed by a picket, but is otherwise on a much smaller and poorer scale.
To the N.W. of the post was a large village of Malemutc and Koriak Indians,
a race of tall and stout people, but in other respects much resembling th»
Esquimaux. Extensive shoals prevail off" the mouth of the river.
«-5?
rs '
i ■:-^'>
Mi
694
fiEHWNG SVA.
1 f:
!
':
11
1 1'
hi!
^11
I
^i
The main stream of the Yukon is not more than 35 miles distant from this
part of the coast, and there is a portage between it and Unalaklik.
Besborouffh Island was seen at 15 leagues off by Cook, and though it lies 6
or 7 miles from the continent, has no channel inside it for ships, on account of
the shallowness of the water. It is stated that there is anchorage in 4 fathoms
inside it.
From the mouth of the Yukon River northward to Behring Strait the coast
is broken occasionally by rugged cliffs, but as a rule is low and undulating ;
along the beach are strewn great quantities of drift-wood. — Cruise of the
" Corwin."
Cape Denbigh is about 50 miles N. f E. from the North end of Stuart
Island, and 8 miles W. by N. f N. from Besborough Island. It is the extremity
of a peninsula, united to the continent by a low neck of land, on each side of
which the coast forms a bay, that to the southward being Chaktolimout Bay,
just mentioned.
The whole of the beach around the bay seemed to be covered with drift-
wood ; but on account of the shoals, which extend quite around, to the distance
of 2 or 3 miles from the shore, it is impossible to get it off.
Norton Bay, the head of Norton Sound, was partially explored by
Mr. King, one of Cook's officers. From the heights, on the West side of the
inlet, the two coasts were seen to join, and the inlet to terminate in a small
river or creek, before which were banks of sand or mud, and everywhere shoal
water.
Bald Head forms the north-western limit of this inner sound, and is about
25 miles to the north-westward of Cape Denbigh. On the West side of Bald
Head the shore forms a bay, in the bottom of which is a low beach. At about
20 miles to the S.W. J S. of this point the coast projects out into a bluff head,
composed of perpendicular strata of a rock of a dark-blue colour. The sound-
ings off this shore are very shoal, not being more than 6 fathoms at a league
off, and decreasing to 3 fathoms and under to the eastward. The coast con-
tinues in a S. ^ W. direction as far as Cape Darby, where it turns to the north-
westward.
Cape Darby is in lat. 64° 16', long. 162" 44'. Capt. Cook anchored off the
coast between Bald Head and this cape in a quarter less 5 fathoms, half a
league from the coast, the South point of which bore S. 26" W. ; Bald Head,
N. 60" E., 26 miles distant; and Besborough Island, S. 52^ E., 15 leagues
distant, true bearings. He states that all the drift-wood in these northern parts
was fir.
Golovnine Bay, on the West side of Cape Darby, was discovered in 1821
by Capt. Khramtschenko. The natives here term it Tatrhik. Its opening is
limited on the East by Cape Darby, and on the West by Cape Kamennoi, or
Jiovki/, lying about 9 miles W. by S. of the first. The latter cape was so called
from a flat and bare rock close to it. These two capes are high and steep, but
GOLOVNINE BAY— POINT RODNEY.
696
Cape Darby is the highest. The bay extends first to N.N.W., and then to
AV.N.W. At 3 miles to the northward of Cape Kamennoi there is a bed of
gravel across it, running off to the East from the West side. At 2 miles from
the East side of the bay, which is opposite to it, it is terminated b" a reef of
uncovered rocks, which, at a distance, is extremely like an artificial pier or
mole, whence it is called ihe Stone Mole, or Kamennaia Pristan. Beyond this
the bay is very shallow.
There is anchorage in all parts of the outer bay as far as the Stone Mole :
bring it to bear from West to W.S.W., true; within this the depth rapidly
decreases. The bay is perfectly clear throughout ; but, as it is open to winds
from the South, the anchorage is not without some danger from this cause.
AVater may be procured from a small river, and on the West shore drift-wood
may be collected.
The time of high water, the establishment, is G*" 23"". At full moon it rises
3 feet 8 inches.
The inner bay communicates with the outer by a narrow gullet. At its hoad
a large river discharges by five mouths, which makes the water of the Lay
fresh.
Aziak, or ^yak Island, called by Cook Sledge Island, on account of a sledge
found by him on it, is 10 or 12 miles S.E. J E. of Cape Rodney, and is in
about Int. 64" 30', long. 166° 7'. M. Tebenkotf thinks it is a mile in circuit,
and he describes it as a rock rising 642 ft. above the water, A low point pro-
jects on its North side ; and, on the East, a village stands on the slope of the
rugged coast. The island may be approached on all sides. The anchorage is
bad to the East, the bottom being of large stones. It is better to the North,
near the point, although the current runs here 3 knots, but the bottom is much
better.
Oukivok, or King Island of Capt. Cook, is a bare rock 756 ft. in height, not
more than a mile in circuit, and cliffs on all sides, with deep water close-to.
On the summits of the cliffs are a number of columnar stones. There is a
village, the houses excavated in the rocks, on a rugged slope, at 150 or 200 ft.
above the sea. The inhabitants appeared glad to receive a visit from the people
of the U.S. steamer Corwin, and seemed to be in a prosperous condition. They
live almost entirely by walrus and seal hunting.
POINT RODNEY is a low point to the N.W. J W. of Sledge Island, and
being low, and the water shallow, it is difficult to land. From the beach to
the foot of the mountains there is a plain about 2 miles wide, covered with
lichens and grass, upon which Capt. Beechey observed several herds of rein-
deer feeding ; some narrow lakes extend several miles along the coast. Upon
the beach is a greater abundance of drift-wood than is found on other parts of
the foast. About 2 miles from the coast the country becomes mountainous, and
far inland rises to peaked hills of great height, which are covered with peren-
nial snow.
i
f
;, IHI
^1
i
696
BEIIRING SEA.
,
i. !
* r
li
i- I
PORT CLARENCE, which was explored and named by Captain Beechey.
August, 1827,* is 30 miles to the north-westward of Point Rodney. It was
passed unnoticed by Cook in his passage through the strait, but this is not sur-
prising, from the character of the land forming it.
Point Spencer, the North extremity of a low spit of land, projecting about
10 miles from the coast, forms the southern protection of this spacious harbour,
and is in lat. 65^ 16' 40" N., long. 166^ 47' 50" W. It here forms aright angle,
having a channel about 2 miles wide between its extremity and the northern
shore. This southern side of Port Clarence is a low diluvial formation, covered
with grass, and intersected by narrow channels and lakes. It projects from a
range of cliffs which appear to have been once upon the coast, and sweeping
round, terminates in the low shingly point before named, Point Sjjcncer.
Near Point Spencer the beach has been forced up, by some extraordinary
pressure, into ridges, of which the outer one, 10 or 12 ft. above the sea, is the
highest. Upon and about these ridges there was a great quantity of drift
timber, but more on the inner side of the point than on the outer.
The northern and eastern shores of Port Clarence slope from the mountains
to the sea, and are occasionally terminated by cliffs. The soil is covered with
a thick coating of moss, among which are a few plants. The valleys and hol-
lows are all filled with dwarf willow or birch.
ORANTLET HARBOUR forms an inner harbour to the extensive and ex-
cellent bay just described. The channel into it from the outer harbour is
extremely narrow, the entrance being contracted by two sandy spits ; but the
wiitcr is deep, and in one part there is not less than 12 fathoms. At the upper
end of the harbour is a second strait, about 300 yards in width, formed between
steep cliffs ; but tliis channel, too, is contracted by sandy points. This strait
communicates with a large inland lake. Capt. Beechey found three Esquimaux
villages here.
" These two ports," says Capt. Beechey, " situated so near Behring Strait,
may, at some future time, be of great importance to navigation, as they will be
found particularly useful by vessels which may not wish to pass the strait in
bad weather. To the outer harbour, which for convenience and security sur-
j)asses any other near Behring Strait with which we are acquainted, I attached
tlie name of Port Clarence, in honour of His Most Gracious Majesty, then
Luke of Clarence. To the inner, which is well adapted to the purjjoses of re-
pair, and is sufficiently deep to receive a frigate, provided she lands her guns,
which can be conveniently done upon the sandy spit at the entrance, I gave
the name of Grautley Harbour, in compliment to Lord Grantley."
It is high water in the port, on full and change, at 4" 25"".
Point Jackson, named, like Point Spencer, from a distinguished naval officer,
• Port Clarence was for u long time proviously known to tho Uusiiianii ua Kaviayak Bay
L*u( they did not know that it contained ita ozcellent port. — Liitke.
mm
CAPE PRINCE OF WALES.
697
forms the North side of the entrance to Port Clarence. Off it the water is more
shallow than usual.
The harbour has frequently afforded refuge and shelter to our ships since
Admiral Beechey surveyed it. The Franklin Search Expedition of 1848 —
1854, which went vi& Behring Strait, made it more or less their head-quarters.
H.M.S. Enterprise, Capt. Collinson, came here in 1851. The Plover, Capt.
Moore, and afterwards Capt. Maguirc, was stationed here as a reserve or store
ship to the other vessels engaged in the search in 1851 — 1853. H.M.S. Rattle-
make, Commander Trollope, also wintered here October 5th, 1 853 — June, 1864 ;
■0 that this remote and sequestered spot has received much attention.
Grantley Harbour, after this, sprang suddenly into short-lived importance in
1866-7, as it was the spot selected for the landing of the Behring Strait electric
cable from the Asiatic shore. During the winter of 1866-7, Capt. Libby, of
the Western Union Telegraph Service, wintered here, and spent the summer,
with 40 men, leaving a good station and other houses when the enterprise was
abandoned. It is a central point at which the natives of Kotzebue and Norton
Sound, and the neighbouring country, meet the Tchuktchis from the Siberion
coast. Many whalers annually visit this harbour for trading purposes, and
Mr. Whympcr says that it is possible that a permanent white settlement might
be formed in this remote place. It is a good spot to winter in, but supplies
from the resources of the country are very uncertain.
Cape York, named after the Duke of York, is a bold promontory, and near
it there is probably a river, called Toup-nut by the natives. From hence to
Cape Prince of Wales the coast is of quite a different character to that to the
northward of the latter, being bounded by steep rocky cliffs, and broken by
deep valleys, while the other is low swampy ground.
CAPE PRINCE OF WALES is the westernmost extreme of America. This
celebrated promontory is the western termination of a peaked mountain, nearly
2,600 ft. high, which, being connected with the main by low ground, at a dis-
tance has the appearance of being isolated. The promontory is bold, and re-
markable by a number of ragged points and large fragments of rock lying upon
the ridge which connects the cape with the peak. About a mile to the north-
ward of the cape some low laud begins to project from the foot of the mountain,
taking first a northerly, and then a north-easterly direction, to Schischmareff
Inlet.
The natives have a village upon the low land near the cape, called Eidannoo,
and they are reported to be the worst people on the coast, having several times
attempted to seize the vessels of the traders. About 14 miles inland from
Eidannoo there is a remarkable conical hill, often visible when the mountain
tops are covered, which, being well fixed, will be found useful a' such times by
ships passing through the strait. At 12 miles farther inland the country be-
comes mountainous, and ia remarkable for its sharp ridges. The altitude of
North Pacific, 4 V
'^< I
898
BEHRING SEA.
: I h
?. .
i' ii
one of the pea^a, which is nearly the highest in the range, is 2,596 ft. These
mountains, being covered with snow, when the Blossom was here (August,
. 1827), gave the country a very wintry aspect.
Off the cape is a very dangerous shoal, appearing to extend 6 or 7 miles to
the N. by W. J W. from it, upon which the sea breaks heavily. It takes the
direction of the current, and is extremely dangerous, in consequence of the
water shoaling so suddenly, and having deep water within it. The Blossom
was nearly lost on it in 1827. The whalers report that this shoal is extending.
BEHBINO STRAIT separates America from Asia. A vessel sailing in mid-
channel can see both continents at once. At its narrowest part, between Cape
Prince of Wales and the East Cape of Asia, it is about 49 miles wide, but in
jnid-channel are the Diomede Islands. It is, comparatively, very shallow, not
exceeding from 20 to 30 fathoms in depth, and much of it less than this, so
that it will not admit of any deep floating icebergs to drift southwards. On
this account it was considered that a submarine telegraph cable, between
Grantley Harbour and Cape Choukotskoi, on the Siberian shore, would be
quite safe from any injury from this cause. In passing through the strait, the
officers of the Corwin noticed that the water was of a brownish tint.
The DIOMEDE ISLANDS are two small islands and a rock occupying a
conspicuous geographical position, as they lie between the nearest points of
the two great continents of Asia and America, being thus in the very narrowest
portion of Behring Strait.
They have been the subject of some slight dispute as to their real number.
Our celebrated Capt. Cook places three islands here in the middle of the strait.
Kotzebue imagined that he saw a fourth. The subject was set at rest by Capt.
Beechey, in the Blossom, in 1826. They are three in number.
The south-eastern of the group is a high square rock, almost inaccessible,
named by Capt. Beechey Fainvay Rock, and by the native who drew a chart
of this region, Oo-ghe-e-ak. It is an excellent guide to the eastern channel,
which is the widest and best. The central island was named, after the Admiral,
Krusenstern Island, and by the above-mentioned authority, Igna-look. It is
an island with perpendicular cliffs and a flat surface. The third, or north-
western one, which is the largest, was named by Capt. Beechey, after Kotzebue's
supposed discovery, Ratmanoff Island, and Noo-narbook by the native. It is
3 miles long, high to the southward, and terminates, in the opposite direction,
in low, rocky cliff's, with small rocky points off them.
They were visited by Mr. W. H. Dall, in Soptembor, 1880, and he describes
these islands as granite domes, rising abruptly from the water. There were
two villages, one on each island, the inhabitants chiefly subsisting on the innu-
merable birds. The boundary line between Eussia and Alaska passes through
th« channel between the two islands, in long. 168" 38' 5' W. The current
near these islands was reversed by the tide, the rate not exceeding 3 knots,
running diagonally across the stroit.
M3~~
KOTZEDUE SOUND— CAPE LISBURNE.
699
From Cape Prince of Wales the coast trends to the northward, the water
being shallow just to the North of it, as before stated.
The coast itself is low, with a ridge of sand extending along it. The land
behind is marshy in the summer, and extends without anything remarkable for
35 miles to the narrow and intricate entrance of Schischmareff Inlet, which
has not been explored. From hence to the north-eastward the coast it low
and swampy, with a ridge of sand in front of it, terminating at Cape Espenburg.
Cape Espenburg, or Spanhery, about 30 miles from Schischmareff Inlet,
and the western point of entrance to Kotzebue Sound, is a low flat point with
some high sand-hills on it. Near the end of the cape is a native village. A
bar of sand is stated to extend nearly 2 miles off this coast.
KOTZEBUE SOUND is a large indentation to the eastward of Cape Espen-
burg, with a moderate depth of water throughout, from 5 to 1 2 fathoms. At
its head is Eschscholtz Basin, extending for 10 miles to the eastward from its
entrance, the depth gradually decreasing from 4 fathoms to 1 fathom, where
the Buckland liiver rims into it. At the entrance of the basin lies Chamisso
Island, in lat 66° 13' 11" N., long. 161° 46' W., rising to a height of 231 ft.,
and having a cross on its summit, bearing the names of the Blossom, Plover,
&c. It is about IJ mile long, and has several streams from which water may
be obtained in the early part of summer, but later in the season the streams
become dry. The land about this part of the ^ound is generally characterized
by rounded hills from 600 to 1,000 ft. high, with suall lakes and rivers.
Between Chamisso and the South end of Choi Is Peninsula, 2 miles to the
northward, vessels can enter the basin with a fair wind, avoiding the shoal
extending about a mile off the peninsula. Within the isknd, and half a mile
from the shore of the peninsula, there is anchorage in 5 fathcns. good holding
ground.
From Choris Peninsula the coast trends 13 miles noi th- westward to Cape
Blossom, and here commence some shoals which line the coast to the west-
ward, extending as far as 8 miles off, and the soundings give very short notice
of its proximity. Hotham Inlet, off which this shoal lies, is a broad sheet of
water extending 30 or 40 miles to the south-eastward. At its mouth and at
Cape Blossom are the principal trading places of the natives of thif» part.
From hence the coast trends away to the westward, and becomes mor«
barren. In lat. 68° 7' 45" N., long. 165° 54' W., is Cape Thompson, a bold
headland, where the Cortvin procured an abundance of good water, but the
anchorage is bad. About 28 miles beyond this is Hope Point, with shallow
water off it, and intersected by lakes and creeks. Capt. Beechey, in passing
along this coast, found a northerly surface-current of li^ to 3^ miles per hour
in July and August.
CAPE LISBURNE, of Captain Cook, is about 38 miles northward of Hope
Point, and rises to a height of 849 ft. Here the coast turns to the eastward
nearly at right angles, and becomes lower. About 30 miles from the cape, and
w
m
a'
i
"W
II
I li
in
1 :'
i
f /•,
1 i
700
ICY OK POLAR SEA.
in lat. 68' 50', long. 164" 65', are some deposits of coal, sevcrnl tons of which
were shipped by the Cortoin, and found to be of fair quality, very similar to
the Seattle coal. There is good anchorage, with a southerly wind, within haif
a mile of the shore, in 4 fathoms. The locality is well marked by a peculiar
headland about 400 ft. high.
From the rugged limestone mountains at Cape Lisbume there is a uniform
descent to the rounded hills of sandstone at Cape Beaufort. The latter is
situated in the depth of a great bay between Cape Lisbume and Icy Cape, and
is the last place where the hills come down to the sea. At Cape Beaufort are
some narrow veins of coal. From hence the coast trends more to the north-
ward, and becomes fronted by a narrow strip of shingle or sand, having a
lake within it extending for above 120 miles. Drift-wood was everywhere
abundant.
loy Cape, the farthest point reached by Captain Cook, is very low. Extend-
ing about 6 miles off it are Blossom Shoals, consisting of several successive
banks, lying parallel with the shore, with from 2 to 4 fathoms over them.
Vessels rounding the cape in thick weather should not come within a depth of
10 fathoms.
From Icy Cape the coast continues in one low unbroken line to the N.N.E.,
and is a flat or slightly rolling stretch of Arctic bog. The beach abounds with
coal and drift-wood. At 40 miles from Icy Cape is a spacious opening or lake,
named Wainwriffkt Inlet, having a very narrow and winding entrance channel,
with only 9 or 10 ft. water in it. Several native villages we*"^ seen on the
coast beyond this. At 16 miles from this inlet is Cape Bt ~/ier, where the
coast turns more to the eastward. At 18 miles beyond it is Point Franklin,
the outer point of a chain of low sandy islands named Seahorse Islands. A
shoal, upon which the barque Helen Mar struck, extends 2 miles off the N.E.
side of the cape. Capt. Hooper, U.S. steamer Corwin, reports that the bay
within these islands, named Peard Bay, is entirely surrounded by shallow
water. At Ooglaamie, near Point Franklin, the United States authorities have
established a meteorological station. The coast from Cape Franklin to Cape
Smyth, a distance of about 40 miles, is a succession of clay cliffs from 25 to
75 ft. in height, with a shingle or sandy beach. The land in the rear is low
and flat.
POINT BABROW, 16 miles beyond Cape Smyth, is the N.W. extreme of
America, in about lat. 71' 23' 31" N., long. 156' 15' W. It is a low spit of
land making out about 6 or 8 miles from the regular coast-line, having a native
village near its extremity. A shoal of 3^ fathoms is reported to lie 6 miles
N. by E. of the point.
ICY or POLAK SEA. — This has been, and is, a vast field for the enterprise
of the American whalers. The barrier of ice, extending from the shores of
America to those of Asia, possesses all the peculiarities incident to the similar
HERALD ISLAND— WRANOELL ISLAND.
701
I of which
■similar to
Irithin hait'
peculiar
la uniform
le latter is
I Cape, and
laufort are
|he north-
iviug a
rerywhere
Extend-
Bucoessive
ver them.
depth of
e N.N.E.,
unds with
g or lake,
e channel,
!n on the
vhere the
Franklin,
lands. A
the N.E.
t the bay
Y shallow
ities have
I to Cape
:om 25 to
ar is low
:treme of
T spit of
; a native
) 6 miles
aterprise
bores of
I aimilar
natural features in other regions. It varies in its extent, or rather its encroach-
ments, on the open sea to the southward of it in different seasons, and therefore
no absolute description can be given of its limits. Icy Cape, on the American
shore, would appear to be a frequent limit to its southern side.
The ice-pack seldom moves more than a few miles off shore between Icy
Cape and Point Barrow, and is likely to close in at any time. A vessel going
North of Icy Cape should sight the ice-pack frequently, keeping close watch of
its movements, and in the event of its starting inshore should get below Blossom
Shoals as soon as possible. — Capl. Hooper, U.S.S. Corwin, 1880.
There is one feature of this sea which might appear somewhat remarkable,
and that is its shallowness. There is anchorage almost all over it. The depth
varies from 20 to 30 fathoms, seldom exceeding the latter ; the bottom com-
posed of sand, mud, and stones. This, therefore, simplifies the navigation
during the few weeks that it may be said to be open to navigation. It has
been traversed in almost every portion ; and, with the exception of Herald
Shoal, discovered by Capt. Kellett, no permanent danger appears to exist in
the open space between the shores of the two continents. Herald Shoal, upon
which 7 fathoms was the least depth found, lies in about lut. 70° 20' N., long.
171° 6' W. Captain Kellett was of opinion that much shoalcr water existed
upon it.
Herald Island, discovered by Capt. Kellett, H.M.S. Herald, in 1849, is
described as being about 4^ miles long. East and West, a solid mass of granite,
about 900 ft. high, almost inaccessible. It is in about lat. 71° 20' N., long.
175° 22' W., and was taken possession of in the name of H.M. Queen Victoria.
Plover Island lies about 23 miles to the S.S.W.
WBANGELL ISLAND, which had previously been considered as part of
an Arctic continent, was discovered to be an island by Lieut. Berry, U.S.S.
Rodgers, 1881. It is about 70 miles long East and West, and 35 miles broad,
including the sand-spits making out 6 to 10 miles from the North and South
coasts. A range of high hills extends completely around the island near the
coast-line, and a lower range extends from East to West through the centre.
One peak near the centre. Berry Peak, was found to be 2,500 ft. high. Several
streams were found, and a few bears were seen near the coast.
On August 25th, at 10 a.m., the Rodgers sighted Cape Hawaii, the S.E.
point, and soon after the ice surrounding the island was encountered, seemingly
a dense pack. Skirting the edge of the pack a lead was discovered at 4 p.m.
which was followed, and at 10 p.m., after having passed through about 1
miles of ice, the vessel anchored in 6 fathoms about half a mile from the shore.
Bodgers Harbour. — This small but excellent harbour, where the Rodgers
was anchored for 19 days, is 7 or 8 miles westward of Cape Hawaii, and is
formed by a bight in the coast-line, just East of a projecting promontory. It is
a little more than 200 yards in extent either way, with a depth of from 3 to .1^
fathoms in the centre. The observation spot, near the western extremity of
l^It
702
BKIIRINO SEA.
tho low sandy neck on the South side, is in Int, 70° 57' N., long. 178° 10' W.
The rise and fall of the tide was 3 ft. ; the flood tide sets to the southward an i
westward.
s (
i.
Having thus described the shores of Alaska, and the adjacent islands in the
Sea of Behring, it remains to describe the detached islands now belonging to
the United States, which are found in it. In this we have derived much in-
formation from the voyages of Capts. Liitke, Cook, Billings, Kotzebue, Beechey,
and other navigators, including the reports of more recent American and other
observers.
ST. LAWRENCE ISLAND, called Engtiae by the natives, is the northern-
most of those which Ho in the open sea, and was discovered by Behring on St.
Lawrence's day, August 10th, 1728. He stated that he passed by it without
observing anything particular on it, except the cottages of some fishermen.
Captain Cook gave it the name of Gierke Island. It was seen by Captain
Kotzebue, who e.xamined the East and S.E. sides, but did not observe the union
of the East and West portions.
From this cause, beyond doubt, the islands Macarius, St. Stephen, St.
Theodore, and St. Abraham of Lieut. Syndt, are only the higher hills, which
are all that ate seen of St. Lawrence at a distance. Cook thus named a part of
ito extreme Anderson Island.
In 1 828 Capt. SchischmarefF made a detailed examination of its shores, with
the exception of that part examined by his former commander, Capt. Kotzebue,
in 1817. On the S.W. side is a small optn bay, where the officers of the
Burick landed ; this spot is readily recognised by the small rocky island in its
vicinity.
From these and later examinations it appears that the island is about 85
miles in extent E. i S. and W. J N., with an average breadth of 20 miles.
The N.W. point, to which Admiral Krusenstern gave the name of the Russian
surveyor, -Se/iMoAmare/ /'om<, is in lat. 63° 62' N., long. 171° 30' W. The
N.E. point of the islond is in lat. 63° 15', long. 168° 36', the coast between the
two being much indented.
The islet which Cook saw near this latter point, in about lat. 63° 6', long.
168° 45', is composed, according to Kotzebue, of two islets: Schischmareffsavs
there are three. The inhabitants call the eastern part of the coast Kaegalak,
and the western Chiboko. The eastern point of the island is named Cape
Anderson, and here an historic doubt existed.
A shoal of 11 fathoms was found by the Blossom precisely in the situation
assigned to a small island named by Cook after his respected surgeon, Mr.
Anderson. This island had never been seen after, and the veracity of the great
navigator had been in consequence impeached. Capt. Beechey, however, recti-
) 1
«>euMU MUHiiiM
ST. LAWRENCE ISLAND-ST. MAITIIKW ISLAND.
703
fied this error, having found that it wu intended for the East end ot St.
Lawrence Island.
The inland is inhabited by a few Esquimuu . families, and Capt. Hooper, of
the U.S. steamer Corwin, 1880, states that the niitivcs are the best looking
found in the vicinity. The men are strongly addicted to rum, and will barter
anything they possess to procure it, and so long n.. it lasts will do nothing but
drink aud fight. Their number has decreased of late years, consequent upon
intemperance, sickness, and starvation.
The Swedish steamer Veya anchored, in July, 1879, in on open boy on the
N.W. side of the island. Professor NordenskiiJUl states thut it is very dangerous
to stay long here with a vessel, for there is no known haven on its const. In
consequence of the heavy swell, when the sea is clear of ice, it is diificult to
land on the island.
ST. MATTHEW ISLAND was discovered by Lieut. Syndt, in August,
1766. Captain Cook, ignorant of this circumstance, considered it as a new
discovery in 1778, nnd called it Gore Island. He only saw the S.E. part from
a distance, and probably only made out the small island, now named Hall,
lying separately to the North, which the Russian promychlcnniks call Morjovi
or Morse Island. Since Cook's time it has been seen by several Russian navi-
gators. Saryt8che£P anchored here ; Schischmareff passed close to it. On the
Russian charts it has always borne its original name, Matvoi, or St. Matthew ;
' ut to preserve the name by Cook, Liitke named the West extremity of the
island Cape Gore.
In 1874 it was visited by Mr. H. W. Elliott and Lieut. Maynard, U.S.N.,
who found the island tenanted by large numbers of polar bears.
St. Matthew Island lies W. by N. i N. and E. by S. i S., and in a direct
line is about 22 miles lonf;, and 3.]^ to 4^ miles in breadth. Its shores consist
partly of high rocks, partly of low land. The S.E. extremity of the island,
most justly called by Cook Cape Upright, rises out of the water like a wall to
the height of 1,400 ft., and this is the highest point of the island. It falls
suddenly to the N.W., forming a very low and very narrow isthmus; not being
seen beyond 4 or 5 miles, it causes Cape Upright, even at this distance, to appear
as a separate island. Beyond this isthmus the island increases in breadth and
elevation, and then again contracts, forming another isthmus, similar to the
first, at 9 miles from it, then a third, from which formation St. Matthew at a
distance appears like several islands. The S.E. or outer point of Cape Upright
is in lat. 60" 18', long. 172° 4' W.
About 8 miles W. by S. J S. from this cape is Sugarloaf Cape, thus named
from an extremely remarkable mountain which surmounts it. This mountain
is 1,438 ft. in height, and on every side appears as an irregular cone, the only
one on the island. Between Cape Sugarloaf and Cape Upright are two bays,
entirely unprotected, surrounded by low shores. On the North side of the
Sugarloaf is a simila. bay, and an isthmus similar to that connecting Cnpc
1;:
704
BEHRINQ SEA.
+'!
i Pi!
Upright. From this towards the W.N.W., as far M the West extreme, Cape
Qore, are almost perpendicular rocks, intersected in many parts by raTines.
Caps Gore terminates to seaward io a low clifT, and off it are some rocky islets.
At 3 miles from the North end of the island, on the coast quite by itself, is a
remarkable rock, of a rhomboidal form.
The North point of the island, named by Capt. Liitko after Capt. SarytschefTs
Tessel, is in lat. 60° 38', long. 172° 41', It is steep, but much lower than
Cape Upright. The eastern shore of the island much resembles the opposite
one. There are corresponding bays on either side, which form the nanow
isthmuses.
Hall or Motjovi Island is steep on every part except the S.W., and is
separated from the N.W. end of St. Matthew by Sarycheff Strait, less than 3
miles in width. Its North extreme, in lat. 60° 34',, long. 172° 42', equals Cape
Upright in elevation, and much resembles it. The South end extendi in a low
point to the S.E.
Pinnacle Island, justly so named by Cook, lies 16 miles S.W. | W. from
Cape Upright. Two sides, nearly perpendicular, unite at the elevation of 990
feet in a pointed crest, with a number of pointed rocks on it. At the steep
S.W. extremity are some isolated rocks ; and the N.E. point terminates in an
entire range of connected and extniordinary pointed rocks.
The shores of St. Matthew are clear, and the depth very great. There might
not be great difficulty in landing in the bays in fine weatber. The island is
not inhabited, and is scarcely capable of being so. The formation of the island
is volcanic.
I
i h'
i !
PRYBILOV ISLANDS.
These are a group of two volcanic rocky islands, and two small islets, dis-
covered by M. Prybilov in 1786 ; this officer was under Capt. Billings' expedi-
tion, in 1790. At first Ihey were called Noty (new); then Lebedevski, from
the name of the owner of the vessel which discovered them. M. Chelekoff
culled them Zouboff; more recently they have been called Kolovy (sea-bears),
and Severny (North), from the immense quantity of sea animals found there,
and their position relative to Ounalushka. Admiral S&ry tscheff has placed them
on his chart under the name of the oificer who discovered them, as here re-
peated. They are most commonly called in the colonies here Ot(rovki, the
Little Islands.
They are at present noted for the immense quantities of fur-seals, walrus,
&c., which frequent their shores. In 1870 the United States Government
granted a twenty years lease of these inlands to the Alaska Commercial Com-
pany, the latter having the exclusive right, and being entitled to take annually
not over 100,000 seal skins. The seals annually begin to arrive here early in
May, for breeding purposes, and in July, some parts of the shores, known a«
II
fllwiuiwiiniMi 1 1 "
jj^- ^ ^f^'j3f;jgs;i;;.7pa=is ^!tuzi«jt iaaaa»9!mua^ •«
PIIYBILOV ISLANDS— ST. GKORGE ISLAND.
70S
rookcnea, are covered with hundreds of thousands of these animals. In
October they begin to depart, and by the beginning of January they have all
di»appeared. They are most carefully protected, only the young males being
taken for their skins.*
The inhabitants are some of them descendants of the Aleutians brought here
by the Russians, and are all comfortably off, the Company having provided
them with decent houses, two churches, schools, hospital, &c.
The climate of these islands is as humid and disagreeable as possible. Ver-
dure does not show itself until the end of April or May. Dense fogs prevail in
summer, the atmosphere is rarely clear, and the sun is still more rarely to be
seen. Snow falls in October. In December North winds bring the ice, which
remitins here frequently until May. The lowest average temperature of a
usual winter ranges from 22° to 26^ F. The summer temperature ranges be-
tween 35° and 64".
It is sometimes difBcult to find these " small islands " in the condensed fogs
which prevail here. At times the land may be seen from the mast-head, when
below it is very thick.
A great many attempts have been made to raise a few of the hardy vegeta-
bles, but with the exception of lettuce, turnips, and radishes on St. Paul
Island, nothing has been or can be done. It is also next to impossible tu keep
cattle, sheep, or poultry, during the winter. No species of wood grows ou
the islands, but drift-wood is found on their eastern parts. Fresh water is
procured from lakes or rivulets.
ST. GEORGE ISLAND, the southernmost island, ia a little over 10 miles
in length. East and West, and about 4J miles across where widest. It rises
sheer and precipitous from the sea all round, except at three spots where there
is landing, at Garden Cove on the East coast, at the village on the North coast,
and at Zapadnie Bay on the S.W. side, otF each of which there is anchorage.
'i"he loftiest summit, southward of the village, rises to a height of 930 ft.
Capt. Liitke says the aspect of the S.E. coast is very monotonous, only one
point rising above the rest on its level surface. The surface of the N.W. part
is perfectly flat, and is covered with gi-as-i. Capt. Beechey states that the
island consists of two hills united by moderately high ground, and is higher
than St. Paul Island.
The coast in general is clear, and has a depth of 16 to 20 fathoms around it;
a stony kelp bed at Zapadnie, and another eastward of the village, being the
only hindrances to a ship's sailing boldly round the island.
• Most valuable nnd exhaustive accounts of tlie3e isknds, and thoir marine visitors, will
he found hi two Reports, by Mr. H. W. Elliott, ob the Seal Islands of Alaska, publiahed
at WiibhiDglon, U. S., one in 1873, and i,he other in 1881. Both theie most interesting
Reports are embellished with numerous illu:it.rat40D».
North Pacific, 4 j^
BEHEING SEA.
The village, consisting of about two dozen houses, and containing 92 inabit-
ants in 1880, is situated near the centre of the North coast. Here the coast
slopes inward, and is covered with a thick herbage. A small cove between
the rocks serves to shelter the baidars, and you may even anchor there in
South and S.E. winds. At a mile off there is 17 fathoms, black sandy bottom;
farther in there is anchorage in 10 fathoms, but the steamer is frequently un-
able to venture in for weeks at a time. The village is stated to be in lat.
56° 39' 16" N., long. 169° 19' W.
A shoal of 5 fathoms, marked by kelp, is reported to lie 13 to 15 miles
north-eastward of the East end of the island. It was seen in 1 824 by Capt,
Chramtschenko.
ST. PAUL ISLAND lies 34 miles N.W. i W. of St. George, which is 183
miles N.W. J W. from the N.W. point of Ounalashka, the channel between
the islands being free from danger. It is about 13 miles in length between its
N.E. and S.W. points, and about 6 miles across where widest. The eastern,
southern, and northern parts of the island are low, and the coasts sloping and
sandy ; but the West side is hilly, and terminates to seaward in a high steep
cape, which is distinguished by a remarkable height surrounding it. There is
on the East side of the island another volcanic hill equally remarkable, 550 ft.
high, and near the centre is another of the same elevation as that at the West
end, viz., 600 ft. Capt. Beechey says that St. Paul is distinguished by several
small peaks, which have the appearance of craters.
The northern and western shores are said to be free from danger up to
within half a mile, but extending off some of the projecting points on the
southern and eastern shores are several large rocky reefs.
The island is extended to the southward by a low bed of sandy gravel, on
the West side of which is the village and the Company's buildings. There are
about eighty houses here, the population amounting to 298 in 1880, 14 of
whom where whites. Off the village, either East or West of it, is the best
place for anchorage in these islands, but with southerly winds a vessel must
leave. Between this and the West end of the island the coast curves into a
bay, and forms some small coves, in one of which there is said to be tolerably
good shelter for small vessels. The greatest rise of tide is said to be not over
4 feet.
Reef Point, the southern extremity of the island, in lat. 57° 8' N., long.
170° 12' W., is about a mile from the village, and has a reef stretching about
half a mile south-westward of it. At 5 miles S.W. J S. from Reef Point, and
about 7 miles S. by E. J E. from the West end of the island, is Bobrovi or
Sea- Otter Island, a small bluffy island, about 3 miles in circuit, rising in a
precipitous form from the sea, except on its northern side where it is low. On
its S.E. extremity is a curious crater hill. A reef extends northward and
south-westward of the N.W. point. Some hidden dangers are stated to lie
between this and St. Paul.
f -fsiMi- y .^-^-^^*-* ''
THE COAST OF ASIA.
10l
About 5 miles E.8.E. from the N.E. point of St. Paul, which is surrounded
by a reef, is a low and rocky islet named Morj'ovi, Morses, or Whale Island,
over which the sea washes in storms. It is much frequented by sea-fowl, and
bears N.E. i N. about 1 4^ miles from Otter Island.
A reef is marked on the chart as lying 10 miles West of the S.W. point of
St. Paul, and another at 3 miles S. by W. from the same point. At 12 miles
to the E.N.E. of its N.E. end a bank is stated to uncover at low water. A rock
is also reported to lie about 90 miles N.E. by E. i E. from the same point.
15 miles
by Capt.
THE COAST OP ASIA.
The merit of discovery of this coast is due to Behring, as we have repeatedly
remarked previously. It had been slightly and cursorily examined by few sub-
sequent to that great navigator's first voyage until Captain Cook saw it, and
first declared its true character. Captains Clerke and King passed along it in
the following year. Capt. Kotzebue in the Rurick, Capts. Billings, Sarytscheff,
and Wrangel, also added slightly to our knowledge. But all these authorities
collectively gave a very vague and imperfect notion of the whole. All this,
however, was obviated by the surveyi;.g expedition under Captain (afterwards
Ilear-Admiral) Liitke, whose excellent and ample work leaves little to desire.
This expedition, which left St. Petersburg in August, 1826, consisted of two
corvettes, the Mollcr, under Capt. Stanikowitch, and the Siniavine, under Capt.
Liitke. The operations of the latter are our present object. After making many
excellent observations in the North Pacific, he proceeded to Avatcha Bay, and
thence surveyed the greater portion of the coasts of Kamchatka and Eastern
Asia to the northward, as far as the East Cape of Behring Strait. The account
of this voyage has furnished us with most of the subsequent particulars.
The Tchuktchis, the inhabitants of Eastern Asia, may demand a short notice
here. Of all the Asiatic races inhabiting Siberia these are the only ones that
have not submitted to the tribute of peltries demanded by the Russians.
The Tchuktchis inhabit the north-eastern part of Asia, extending from
Tchaun Bay to Behring Strait in one direction, and in the other from the Anadyr,
and the upper coasts of the Aniui, to the Polar Sea. To the South are the
Koriaks, and to the West the Tchuwanzes and Jukahirs of the Aniui. The
Tchuktchis, though still in a great measure a nomad race, have less of the
characteristics which usually accompany such a mode of life than the wander-
ing Tunguses ; they are more covetous and more saving than belongs to the
character of the genuine nomad races. They are disgraced by the most shame-
less licentiousness. Some of them possess large herds of reindeer, which are
driven from place to place in search of pasturage, and are also used for riding.
At times the meat may be procured in abundance, and cheaply. The wares
most in demand are large sewing and darning needles, pots, large knives, axes,
Buws, and other tools, liuen and woollen shirts, neckerchiefs, tobacco, and sugar.
&
'-'M
3vard of it the coast is high and bold, but to
the westward it is low. There are two vill&ges in the bay westward of it.
EAST CAFE, the extremity of Asia, has been mentioned before as forming,
with Cape Prince of Wales, the westernmost point of America, the narrowest
part of Behring Strait. x>. is a peninsula of considerable height, joined to the
continent by a very low, and, to appearance, narrow neck of land. It shows a
steep rocky cliff against the sea, from which it rises to a height of 2,100 ft.,
and off the extreme point are some rocks like spires. It is in lat. 66° 3' N.,
long. 169° 44' W. From its general appearance it might be taken for an island,
and this doubtless occasioned an error in the number of the Dioraede Islands
lying off it. Professor Nordenskiold proposes to name this cape Zhschnev,
after the Cossack who, in 1648, made a voyage from the River Lena, through
Behring Strait, to the mouth of the Anadir. From its summit the American
coast is plainly visible. On its North side is the village of UMle.
ST. LAWRENCE BAT, about 33 miles to the S. by W. of East Cape, was
Bo named by Cook, he having anchored in it on St. Lawrence's day, August 1 0,
• Further particulars of the natives will be found in Mr. W. H. Dall's valuable work,
"Alaska and its Resources," and also in Professor A. E. Nordenskiold's "Voyage of ths
I'lga round Asiii and Europe," translated by Alexander Leslie, 2 vols., 1881,
\Hi
ST. LAWRENCE 6aV.
?09
1778. It 18 remarkable that Behring sailed past it just half a century before,
that is, August 10, 1728, on which account the neighbouring island waa called
St. Lawrence Island.
The bay was minutely surveyed by Capt. Liitke in July, 1828, and here com-
mence the sailing directions given by that navigator, corrected, where necessary,
from later information. Cape Nouniagmo is theN.E. extremity of St. Lawrence
Bay, and is distinguished by a remarkable hill, not from its elevation, but from
its rounded summit. Cape Krleougoun, which forms the S.W. extremity, is
11 J miles S.W. by S. ^ S. from it. The western slope of this mountain de-
clines very gradually to form a large opening, through which runs a rapid but
shallow river, on which is a village of stationary Tchuktchis, named Nunamo
or Nouniagmo, 2 miles from the cape of the name. Cape Pnaougoun, beyond
which commences the interior bay, is 3J miles to W. by S. from this village.
Between these the shores are level and low, terminating abruptly at the sea-
shore. From these escarpments, entirely covered with snow in July, avalanches
were constantly falling with great noise. Not a single shrub breaks the
monotony of the interior plains.
Cape Krleougoun is high and very steep ; beyond it the coast turns rapidly
to the westward towards Metchigmensk Biiy. Upon this cape there is a moun-
tain, very remarkable from some sharp peaks. It is a very well determined
position on the chart. The cape is in lat. 65° 29' 40" N., long. 170" 50' W.
At half a mile from its extremity is a village.
From this cape the coast extends, rounding to the North and N.N.W., for
7 miles, where a bed of gravel projects, forming a tolerably large lake. It is
3 J miles S.W. by S. from Cape Pnaougoun, and may be taken as the other
point of the inner bay. Above it is a village.
The depth in the centre of the bay is 27 fathoms. At 1 or 2 miles from the
North shore there is 5, 6, and 9 fathoms, sand and gravel; farther off the depth
rapidly increases. At 1 or 1 J mile from the South shore there is from 7 to 12
fathoms, muddy bottom ; on approaching the inner bay the depth increases, and
opposite the bed of gravel there is 23 fathoms. No indication of reefs or dan-
gers was perceived.
These gravel deposits will be found to be so frequent in occurrence, that
they certainly form a moiety of the entire coast between East Cape and the
South extremity of Lopatka. A summary description of them may therefore
be here given. What is meant by a bed of gravel is a formation or collection
of shingle, rising from a few inches to 6 or 7 ft. above the surface of the water.
They are generally covered with a turfy moss and plants similar to those on
the land. They generally extend in a straight line, or gradually and slightly
curve. They sometimes form distinct islands, and sometimes join on to tho
continent, forming the coast itself, or else points projecting from it. Their
breadth varies ; some are almost washed over by the sea, and none exceed a
mile. There is generally a great depth on their edges, and frequently at 10 or
t I
i'%^
. M 1
910
b^HBiNG s£:a.
ii^
'I"
il 'i
12 yards off there is 4 or 5 fathoms. At 2 or 3 miles off the depth gradually
increases, the bottom frequently muddy ; bo that, wherever one of those gravel
beds is met with on the coast, so sure are you to find anchorage. Neverthe-
less it sometimes occurs that detached and similarly deep banks lie before
these. In digging holes in these banks water is foimd at the level of the sea,
but always among the shingle.
Such shingle banks are met with in other regions, but nowhere so freqaently
as iu the seas of fiehring and Okhotsk. They are seen at every step, and a
glance is sufficient to demonstrate that they are formed by the sea, but in what
manner is not so evident.
The inner bay extends West and W.N.W. for 19 miles, and throughout
maintains nearly an equal breadth of 3^ miles. The opening is rather narrowed
by a low gravel bed, at half a mile westward of Cape Pnaougoun. Its distance
from the South Cape is 2^ miles. Here is the chief entrance, where there is
more than 27 fathoms water, and no danger. In the East passage there is not
more than 1 1 ft. water.
Cape Pnaougoun and the coast, for a mile distant, are formed by a bed of
gravel ; farther off, though low, it is perpendicular, and covered with snow.
Extending from Cape Pnaougoun to the N.E. and W.N.W. it forms a cove,
now named Liitke Harbour, 1^ mile long and wide, in which is secure an-
chorage.
At the extremity of St. Lawrence Bay the termination of a chain of high and
peaked mountains abuts, which has every appearance of being a branch of the
chain traversing the Tchuktchi country from East to West, and joining the
Stanovoi chain. Two small rivers How into the head of the bay.
But few birds or fish, for provision, were seen here ; a few salmon were all
that were procured. But these privations were amply compensated by the
abundance of reindeer which was procured from the wandering Tchuktchis,
always near the coast in the autumn, for iron articles, &c., or, above all, for
tobacco. During the last few years ves^iels touching here only found a few
miserable natives encamped on the shores.
Fresh water is to be had, and of very excellent quality, but not everywhere
readily procurable. Capt. Liitke took his from a brook 1 mile from Cape
Pnaougoun; it may be taken from the beach by means of a hose. On the other
hand, not a morsel of wood can be got. It is worthy of remark that, although
the opposite or American coast abounds with it, both growing and drift, not a
single piece is brought here by the sea. The tides are very insignificant; the
greatest difference observed was 15 inches; and were usually very irregular.
As near as could be ascertained, the establishment of the port was 4'' 20"". The
currents are strong, but apparently as irregular as the tides. The winds are
generally light ; those between South and East bring the fog.
The observations made upon the bed of gravel make its West point lat.
65° 37' 30" N., long, about 170° 43' 30" W.
^
METCHIGMENSK BAY— STRAIT OF SITNIAVINE.
711
dually
gravel
erthe-
before
HETCHIQMENSK BAT.— From Cape Krleougoun the coast turns rapidly
to the westward, and, curving in an open bay, extends for 20 miles to the
W. by S. to a moderately elevated but very steep cape, on which is the large
village of Lugren. The coast appeared clear, without any danger. A bed of
gravel, separating Metchigmensk Bay from the sea, extends from Cape Lugren
lor about 10 miles to the S.W. by W., curving to the South.
The entrance to the bay is very difficult, from its narrowness and the lowness
of the points forming it. Before making them out, the people on them will be
seen, as if walking on the water. The entrance is so placed, that its opening
cannot be made out until it is brought to bear N.W., and consequently when
near the western side. It must thus be sought from the mast-head, like the
opening to a coral reef, which, in foggy weather, is impracticable. The best
mark to find the entrance is a cape on the North of the bay, whi6h, on the
continental side, projects to the South. It is tolerably high, even, and ends
in a low point to the S.W., appearing, at a distance, like two or three islands.
The northernmost and longest of these apparent islands, which is distinguished
by a cliff, lies W.N.W. from the entrance. Bringing it on this bearing, and
steering for it, you go right for the entrance.
The village of Metchigm, on the West side, at 2 miles from the point of the
gravel bed, is a sure mark. The winter yourts show themselves by a thick
verdure on and around them. The Bay of Metchigmensk penetrates the land
for a great distance. The remarks as to supplies at St. Lawrence Bay equally
apply to this. The entrance of the bay was assumed to be in lat. 6.5^ 30' 30",
long. 172° 0' W. The bed of gravel which forms tho West side of the entrance
extends 5 or 6 miles to the N.N.E.
At 15 miles S.E. by S. of Metchigmensk Bay Cape Khalueiktn ^rojecta, very
remarkable for a round-topped mountain. To the S.S.E. of the cape is Ili-
liaghyn Bay, surrounded by a very low coast, apparently terminating in an
inner bay.
Thence the coast turns to S.E. by 8. to Cape Nygtchygan, which, from
North and N.E., at 15 miles distant, appears to be an island, on account of the
lowness of the land between it and Heliaghyn Bay. It is steep ; to the N.W.
of it a bed of gravel extends 3 or 4 miles, which unites at its other end to the
coast, forming a lake or bay. Southward of Cape Nygtchygan is the opening
of the extensive Strait of Seniavine.
STRAIT of SENIAVINE.— The existence of this remarkable strait was
not suspected until the voyage of Capt. Liitke, who applied the name of his
vessel to it. It is formed by two large islands, ArahamtchetchenzxiA. Ittygran.
It runs first towards the S.W., then South, and to the East, nearly 30 miles,
and from 6 miles to half a mile in breadth. Its North entrance is between
Capes Neegtchan and Kougouan, bearing S. J E. and N. i W., 5 miles apart,
and is named by the natives Tchiarloun. Each of them is distinguished by
tolerably higli mountains. Neegtchan lies sc ne distance from the coast ; but
jV^Hf
713
BEimiNG SEA.
Kougouan falls perpendicularly into the sea, and was distinguished by Cook.
Capo Neegtchun, in Int. 64'' 65' 30" N., long. 172° 20' W., is the northern limit
of the strait; as Cape Mertem, in lat. 64° 33' 15", long. 172° 24', is its southern
extremity.
At 2 miles from Cape Neegtchan is the small river Maritch. Its mouth is
a good harbour for small vessels, as they can moor against the land. Near the
mouth, to the N.W., is the Tchuktchi village, Yaniakinon. Konyam or
Penkegnei Bay extends beyond the entrance, first W.N.W. 5 miles, then as far
to S.S. W., then 2 miles to W.S.W. It is surrounded by high mountains, ad-
vancing to the coast itself. It is deep and safe.
The shore at the S.E. part of Konyam Bay, in which the Vega lay at an-
chor for a couple of days, consists of a rather desolate bog. Farther inland
several mountain summits rise to a height of nearly 2,000 ft., split up into
pointed summits. Three Tchucktchi families were living near the bay, and
were friendly.
Abolecheff Bay, — The continental coast from Penkegnei Bay runs 6 miles
to S.S.W. to Abolecheff Bay, partly steep, partly sloping, but mountainous
throughout. Its opening is in front of the South point of Arakamtchetchen
Island, and it thence extends 6 miles to the W.S.W. and S.W., with a breadth
of 1 to 1^ mile. Its North shore consists of a gravel bed, behind which, at a
short distance, high mountains rise, among which Tagleokou is remarkable for
its perfectly conical summit. The upper part of the bay is surrounded by a
very low and sandy shore. Tbore is good anchorage throughout above thb
second cape ; but to be perfectly sheltered you must double the third cape, and
lie in 17 to 19 fathoms, sticky mud. Fresh water abounds every where, but no
wood to be obtained.
Abolecheff Bay had a short-lived dignity, which it is very unlikely to regain.
It was selected by the officers of the Western Union Telegraph Company as
the landing-place iar the submarine cable which was to connect the New and
the Old Worlds, from Grantley Harbour on the American side, as related on
p. 697, ante. The enterprise was abandoned.
From iYieJirtt or S.E. cape of Abolecheff Bay the coast runs 5 miles to
S. by W. J W., and forms a bay open to the North. The surrounding moun-
tains will not permit a ray of the sun to penetrate into it ; it is, therefore,
cold, sombre, and frozen. From this icy bay the coast runs 3 miles to the
E.N.E., and approaches the West extremity of Ittygran Island. A bay on the
latter corresponds to a gravel bed running to the N.E., and is made remark-
able by the high pyramidal mountain, Elpynghyn ; the two together form a
sheltered harbour, with 9 to 20 fathoms.
From the mountain Elpynghyn the coast trends evenly to the East for 6
miles ; then with steep, reddish cliffs, 2 miles farther to Cape Mertens, the
South termination of Seniavine Strait.
' t3t^
STRAIT OF SE'NIAVINE.
713
Capo Hertena ia high, steep, and is distinguished by a mountain with three
summits. Between it and Elpynghyn Mountain there is no shelter.
Arakamtohetohen Island, or Ka-y-ne, the largest of the islands forming tho
Strait of Seniavine, is 16 miles long S.W. by W. and N.E. by E., and 8} miles
in its greatest breadth. From the S.W. point to nearly one-half its length, it
is traversed by a chain of hills, moderately high, with flattened summits; tho
highest of which, Mount Alhos, has two separate granitic rocks crowning its
summit, a short distance apart. Cape Kyghynin, the East point of the island,
and the easternmost point of the land forming the Strait of Seniavine, is in lat.
64° 46' N., long. 172° 1' W., and 28 miles E. by N. i N. from the bottom of
Fenkegnei Bay, the western extremity.
Fort Batmanoff, at 2 miles S.S.W. from Cape Eougouan, is small but good,
and is preferable to all others on account of its proximity to the sea. It is easy
to make out by Cape Kougouan and another cape equally steep but lower, at
3^ miles S.W. of it ; Port Katmanoff is midway between them. The port is
formed by a gravel bed, extending 1 ,000 yards S.W. from the coast it joins.
A portion of the space behind it, 1^ cable in diameter, has 24 to 36 ft. water,
muddy bottom. Vessels can moor to the gravel bed, where neither wind nor
swell can incommode them. At 2^ cables from the South point of the bed is
an isolated sand-bank, with 8 ft. water over it ; this point must therefore be
kept not more than 150 or 200 yards off in rounding it. Water may be got
from u rivulet at the South point.
Cape Paghelian, the S.W. extremity of the island, is 8 miles from this port,
the coast between being low and nearly straight. There is good anchorage in
the slight bay formed by it, and tolerable shelter. Cape Paghelian is the ex-
tremity of a bed of gravel, and is scarcely above the suiface of the water.
From its commencement the rocky shores run 1^ mile to the eastward, rising
quickly to form the Meinghyngai Mountain, conspicuous from its rounded top.
Then begins a gravel bed, which, trending in a curve to S.E. and S.W., forms
the excellent road of Glasenapp. The extremity of this gravel bed, called
Yerghin, is If mile to E. i S. from Cape Paghelian ; there was a small village
on it. There is good anchorage in the bay thus formed, in from 10 to 16
fathoms, mud. You may even moor to the gravel bed.
From this cape the gravel bed runs 2 miles to the N.N.E. to a pointed and
steep cape ; then the shore gradually trends to Cape Ryghynin.
Ittygran Island, 2 miles to the South of the prenous island, is 6 miles
long E. by N. and W. by S., and 2 or 3 miles broad. Its N.W. extremity is
distinguished by a blackish and perpendicular rock. From thence the North
coast of the island runs directly E. by N., and then turns to E.S.E., to S.S.E.,
and S.S.W., to Cape Postels, the S.E. extremity of the island, lying 3 miles
N.W. by W. i W. from Cape Mertens, and 2J miles from the nearest part of
the continent. This forms the breadth of the South entrance to the Strait of
North Pacific, 4 y
! I
"
i
./ t
714
BEHRINO SEA.
S^iUHvine, called by the Tchuktcbis Tchetchehouioum. Cape Potteh is distin-
guished by a moderately high hill, with a perfectly round top. Kynkai Island
which is not more than three-quarters of a mile in circuit, lies 1| mile to
S.W. i 3. from Cape Paghelian. It is moderately high and rocky, with a
bare ilattish summit. Nouniangan, a small rocky blet, is outside the strait,
lying 4^ miles N. by E. f E. from Cape Mertens. It is about 80 ft. high and
cliffy, covered with verdure.
One remarkable feature of the Strait of S^niavine, which also occurs at the
Bay of St. Lawrence, is, that in these straits, enclosed by coasts, the depth
is greater than in the middle of the adjacent sea, which docs not exceed, except
in some parts, 24 fathoms. On the American coast the depth is not great ; but
it is still more singular that this depth is separated from the shallower open
sea by a bank with still less water over it ; so that the soundings first decrease
on approaching the coast, and then increase when on it. In the middle of
Behring Strait the depths diminish equally on either side.
The tide$ were almost imperceptible two or three days after the new moon,
but a strong North wind raised the level, temporarily, 2 or 3 ft.
The wind naturally affects the atmosphere ; with those between North and
West it is clear ; the South brings clouds ; and S.E. moisture.
Vessels coming to trade generally visit the Bay of St. Lawrence, but this
doubtless will be, or has been, abandoned for the Strait of Seniavine, the latter
being 60 miles farther South, and more sheltered from ice and North winds.
Its superior ports, too, are a great advantage. For a short stay, and to procure
water, Glasenapp Bay will be found excellent. If a longer stay is to be made,
Abolecheff Bay will answer. Should it be necessary to entirely discharge a
vessel and heave her down, Ratmanoff Bay offers every facility. The Strait of
Seniavine also offers more trade, because the Reindeer Tchuktchis assemble
here in greater numbers, from the superiority of the pasturage, even over thoso
of the Bay of Anadyr.
Cape Tchaplin. — The coast from Cape Mertens runs to S.E. by S. ^ S.
The mountains recede into the interior, and from the coast a bed of gravel pro-
jects, which, trending in a curve to E.S.E. and E.N.E., forms the long point
called Cape Chaplin or Tchaplin, in lat. 64° 24' 30", long. 172° 14' W. At the
commencement of this bed of gravel high mountains, with pointed summits,
advance to the shore.
CAPE TCHOUKOTSKOI.— From Cape Tchaplin the coast trends towards
the S.W. by W. for 8 miles, and then turns to the N.W., forming Tskagen
Bay, a large indentation with 17 fathoms in its entrance. From the West
point of this bay the coast again trends S.W. by W., 10 miles, and then turns
to W. by N. Capt. Liitke considered the southernmost point of this extent of
coast as Cape Tchoukotskdi or Choukotski. It is a bluff headland, declining
in a narrow crest, from which rise some high pointed rocks. It is in lat.
64° 16', long. 173° 10' W. Beyond this commences the Gulf of Anadyr,
THE GULF OF ANADYR— PORT PEOVIDENOE.
716
is disUn-
ai Island
I mile to
Ly, with a
the strait,
, high aud
urs at the
the depth
led, except
great ; but
lower open
st decrease
middle of
aew moon,
North aud
je, but this
e, the latter
orth winds.
1 to procure
to be made,
discharge a
'he Strait of
lis assemble
n over those
by S. i S.
f gravel pro-
e long point
' W. At the
ted summits,
ends towards
aing Tskagen
)m the West
ad then turns
this extent of
ind, declining
It is in lat.
Anadyr.
The GULF of ANADYR.— The S.W. limit of this gulf may bo placed at
Cape St. Thaddeus, lying 210 miles 8.W. \ W. from Capo Tchoukotskoi.
With this breadth in its o] oning, the gulf is 420 miles in circuit, without
reckoning the si llor sinuosjties and Holy Cross Bay or the Gulf of St. Croix,
which is 180 miles in circuit. It appears to bu free from danger, with the
exception of a patch of 1 ^ fathom, which is marked on the United States chart
near its centre, in lat. 64" 16' N., long. 178" W.
Up to the timu of the visit of Capt. Liitke, Behrlng had been the only navi-
gator who had sailed in it. The Gulf of Anadyr (pronounced . InarJer, and
not Annie-dear, Mr. Whymper says) wa« visited by the Western Union Tele-
graph Company in 1865-7.
On the eastern side of the bay Mount Dionysiut, a mountain of no great
height, on the South side of the entrance of Anadyr River, is the only land-
mark of the district.
Three large rivers enter the bay, two of which are the Arnoura nnd the
Anadyr. The last is navigable for 300 miles, and has no rapids of importance
in that distance. It is aubjr ct to violent freshets in the spring, and then rises
15 or 20 ft. above its usual level, flooding the country in all directions.-*
Travels in Alaska, &c., pp. 115, 117.
Along the North coast of the bay, no sort of danger was perecired from the
Siniavine, and the bottom is gravelly. It must therefore be considv red that it
is clear throughout, because Behring, who kept close to the land all the way
beyond the cape now bearing his name, does not either make mention of any
shoal or reef whatever. The eastern angles of the gulf are the portions which
have the least depth.
From Cape Tchoukotskoi the coast extends to W. by N. Capt. Liitke here
went off the land, so that he did not examine the coast immediately to the
westward of Cape Tchoukotskoi, and this is the part that since his survey has
been of great interest, as Port Providence was used by the Franklin Search
Expedition in 1848-9, and by the Telegraph expedition of 1865-7. At 12 miles
to W. J N. from this cape we reach Cape Stoletie (of the century), which much
resembles the former, of a blackish colour, and having, in a similar manner,
isolated rocks on its crest.
At 7^ miles from Cape Stol6ti6, Cape Ouliakhpen projects in a steep decli-
vity, and is high. The rocks of this cape, and also of those farther to the
north-westward, are not so black as those which extend towards Cape Tchou-
kotskoi ; and the isolated and pointed rocks on their crests arc not seen here.
On the East side of this cape is an open bay, into which the small river Vouten
falls.
PORT PROVIDENCE or PLOVER BAY is the first opening westward of
Tchoukotskoi, and, as stated above, is not marked on Capt. Liitke's chart. It
afforded winter shelter for II. M.S. Plover (Commander Mooee) in 1848-9,
which was despatched in search of the missing expedition of Sir John Franklin.
■l'.>!f|
• t
''■'M;
W
'"■■■,'?!■ ,■■
, ■«•.
Si
pi
a
II
i
;J ■
!!i
I I
tte
BEHRINO SEA.
It conslBts of an inlet extending to the northwnrd, terminating at its northern
end in two arms named Cache nnd Vladimir Bays. On its East side, at its
southern part, are two harbours named Plover Bay and Emma Harbour. Bare
oliflis and rugged mountains hem it in on three sides, and many-coloured lichens
and mosses are the only vegetation seen, except on a patch of open country
near Emma Harbour, where domesticated reindeer graze.
Plover Bay, which is frequented by whalers, lies just above the entrance
of the inlet. It is extensive, with safe anchorage in 1 R fathoms, protected
from the sea by a long, low spit of land, but the holding ground being slaty
and poor, it is unsafe in heavy northerly gales. Otherwise it is a very secure
baven, and it is no uncommon thing to find several whal: '~ vessels lying inside
in the summer. A supply of water could be conveniently obtained. There is
n Tchuktehi village on the spit ; their tents are composed of sicin, stretched
over a frame built of the large bones of whales and walrus. Tht« commander
of the Corwin represents the inhabitants as drunken and worthless. — (See
Lieut. Hooper's Tents of the Tuski.)
On the East side of this bay is Slavianska Bights where the Russian govern-
ment has established a coal dcpdt. In 1876 the bay was visited by Lieuts.
Onatsevich and Maximov, of the Bussian Navy, who made a partial survey.
The observation spot, at the head of a small bight on the West side of the bay,
was determined to be in lat. 64° 21' 56" N., long. 173" 23' 54" W. In 1880
the officers of the U.S. schooner Yukon deduced the long, as 173° 21' 32" W.
Emma Harbonr, in which the Plover wintered, communicates with the
larger one by an opening a mile wide, 4 miles above l .over Bay, forming a
basin 4 miles long, and 1^ mile in breadth, surrounded on every side by lofty
mountains, except to the southward, where it is separated from the sea by a
tract of low land and an extensive lagoon, and having deep water at the entrance
and middle, with good anchorage on each side close to the shore. On the low
land to the South was a native settlement, to which "belonged a large herd of
reindeer. The natives were very friendly.
Plover Bay, as before stated, was selected as the Siberian Station for the
Western Union telegraph cable, leaving Grantley Harbour on the American
side. A station was built, and the line was commenced toward the Amoor,
through a most rugged and difficult country, and one of the party, Mr. Bush,
made the entire journey from the Amoor, a distance of at least 2,500 miles, in
the winter of 1855-6, a feat which deserved to rank as the most remarkable of
many undertaken by members of this expedition.
Cape Uakkoun, like Cape Ouliakhpcn, is very high and steep. It is con-
spicuous, from a pyramidal rock rising from its summit.
Cape Tohing-an falls from a great height, almost perpendicularly, into the
sea. It is very remarkable by a red band which intersects the cape from its
summit to its base.
From Cape Tching-an the coasti consisting chiefly of perpendicular roekst
OULP OF ANADYIl— CAPE PEIIRINO.
717
trends to N.W. by W. f W. and W, ^ N. ns fnr as Cape Spanherg, which is
high, ond in lot. 64° 42 J' N., long. 174=' 36' W. On the South side of the
cape is a high steep rock, with n rounded top, and on the West side is a hill
equally rounded, the flanks of which gradually slope on cither side. Dctwccn
this cape and Cape Halgan, 9 miles distant to the West, a bay penetrates into
the land.
Cape Halgan is high and very steep, and in front of it is n large detached
rock. Cape Ninirlioun is as high and as bluffas the preceding, and in general
the intervening coast is equally so. This cape is very remarkable by its flat
top, but more so from its entirely difierent appearance from that which follows
it. Cape Allcheun, in lat. 64" 48', long. 175° 28'. This latter cope, moderately
elevated, is steep to seaward.
Transfiguration Bay. — The coast extends in a winding manner 4 miles
north-westward to a small open bay, which Liitkc recognised as Behring's
Bay of Transfiguration or Preobrayenia. It is surrounded by a low shore, and
towards its extremity it receives the Itiver Ledianaya (frozen), which the
Tchuktchis call Kouivacm. From this bay the coast is high, nearly perpendi-
cular, and like a wall ; it extends 9 miles to Cape Enmelian.
CAFE BEHBINO is equally high and perpendicular, and is situated in lat.
66° 0' 30' N., long. 175° 48' W. It is particularly noticeable, because hero
suddenly terminate the steep rocks which, with small exceptions, form the
entire extent of coast as far as Cape Tehoukotskoi, and farther North the coast
becomes still lower. The mountains in this space are similar to those at Capo
Tehoukotskoi : of a moderate height, level at the summit, sloping, and even
flat, which particularly characterises the mountains about Cape Ninirlioun.
The high and peaked mountains, like those in the Bay of St. Lawrence, will
no longer be seen, even in the distance. From Cape Behring the coast turns
abruptly to N.E. by N. J N., then to N. by W. J W., sloping gradually, and
terminating perpendicularly in some parts, as far as Cape Tchirikoff, ^hich is
steep, with a peaked summit, and forms an open bay. Some villages were seen.
Beyond this only a single bluff and high cape can be distinguished, lying 4
or 6 miles N.W. by W. J W. from Cape Tchirikoff. The coast thence trends
towards the mouth of a large river, from whence it takes a westerly direction.
At 10 miles from the mouth of the river, the lead only gave 6 to 7 fathoms.
All the eastern shore of the Qulf of Anadyr is destitute of wood.
To the westward of the river above mentioned, the coast is low for 4 miles,
and then commences to become hilly. The mountains, higher than those on
the East coast, are peaked or flat at the summit, but all are dispersed without
any order. The coast in this form extends 15 miles West, forming a small open
bay, into which a small river falls, and terminated on the South by a high bluff
cape. The bottom of the bay is in lat. 65° 36J', long. 176° 48', and is properly
the northern extremity of the Gulf of Anadyr.
At 3 or 4 miles from this last river the most remarkable bed of gravel that
,
■I
■'■\ '' '
',"5
I ''1
m
\i
!.r'"!
, • . /I
H-n
fcr
:i •■ I
I
f I
718
BEHRINO SEA.
I »'
\' i
i ,.
il I
■1 I
IB i
l! \
had been seen commences. It extends without interruption to S.W. by S. i S.
and W. by S. i S. for 45 miles, as far as Cape Meetchken, in the Gulf of St.
Croi.', and consequently forming the largest portion of the North coast of the
Gulf of Anadj T. It is throughout nothing but a heap of bare shingle, with the
exception of a very few spots, where there had been, or still was, a habitation.
A narrow and shallow canal separates this gravel bed from the continental coast,
which runs parallel to it, and bounds the sea with low reddish cliffs.
HOLT CROSS BAY, Gulf of St. Croix, or Kresta Gulf, occupies a space
of 54 miles of latitude, and 35 miles from E.N.E. to W.S.W., and reaches
within 10 miles of the Arctic circle. Its shores, to the distance of 35 miles
from its entrance, run nearly parallel to each other, to N.W. J N., and 20 miles
apart. Farther on they approach each other, and narrow the gulf to less than
4 miles.
Cape Meetchken, the western extremity of the bed of gravel previously de-
scribed, forms the East point of the entrance ; it is in lat. 65° 28' 40", long.
178° 40' W. The shortest distance to the opposite shore to the West is 13^
miles.
There is good anchorage on the North side of Cape Meetchken, open, how-
ever, to N.W. and W.N.W. ; the coast in this direction, being 40 miles distant,
affords not much protection. The depth is 5 to 9 fathoms, and the best place
is to bring Cape Meetchken to bear S.W. Care must be token, in entering, of
the rocky bank, which lies 1^ mile south-westward of the cape.
The eastern side of the gulf, the nearest part of which is 8 miles from Cape
Meetchken, has but very little depth. There are no mountains whatever along
the coast, which is a low cliff. Only near the entrance a branch of the moun-
tains advances, of which the nearest to the gulf is called, by the Tchuktchis,
Linglingai, meaning " heart rock," in Russian Serdze Kamen. It lies in lat.
65° 36it' N., long. 178° 6' W., and its height is 1,462 ft. above the sea.
At 26 miles from Cape Meetchken a tolerably large and high bed of gravel
advances from the coast to the W.N.W., and forms a cove 2 miles in circuit,
exposed to the N.W., in which there is safer anchorage than in that at Cape
Meetchken. At about 8 miles from this point a long and low point projects,
forming the South limit of the Bay of Kanghynin, which is nearly 6 miles wide
at its opening, but is shallow.
The northern side of the gulf presents an entire contrast to those of the East
and western sides. High mountains here advance in three abrupt capes, of a
sombre appearance, forming between them Egvekinot and Etclkouium Bays.
Egvekinot Bay, at the head of the bay, penetrates 7 miles N. by W. J W.,
with a breadth of 1 or 1 J mile. The high mountains which surround it leave
all round a narrow band of low shore. There is no part of the bay worthy of
the name of a harbour. Etelkouium Bay lies by the side of the former. The
depth in the entrance was 13 to 18 fathoms, muddy bottom, and it had every
appearance of being a good port. At the entrance of the bay, on its North side,
GULF OF ANADYR— THE RIVER ANADYR.
7.19
IW
«HI
a bed of gravel forms Krusenstern Cove. Quiet anchora|3;e may be had withia
it in 7 to 12 fathoms.
At 10 miles to the westward of Etelkouium Bay is Engaonghin Bay, at tlio
N.W. angle of Holy Cross Bay. It is a round cove of S miles in oircuit,, shel-
tered from the South by a low point projecting 2 miles to the West, and by a
gravel bed standing alone in front of the point. This forms an excellent har-
bour, the only one worthy of the character in the Gulf of St Croix.
From this bay the western coast of the gulf runs 8oUih, and then curves
gradually to the E.S.E., without forming a single rip.arkablc bay or cove. At
the distance of 10 miles from the port the mountains advance very near to the
sea, and reach it in places with high cliffs. This side of the bay is distingui'shcd
by its superior depth ; in the centre the depths are from 22 to 40 fathom.s,
muddy bottom.
The most remarkable mountain here is that of Matatchingai, at the bottom
of Etelkouium Bay. It is distinguished from all others as well by its elevation
as by its sombre and rugged flanks. Its height was calculated at 9,180 ft.
On the West side, up as far as the Port of Engaoughin, a large quantity of
drift-wood is found, even long and large trunks of trees ; on the East and
North coasts, on the contrary, not a single piece is met with. This circum-
stance is worthy of note ; it proves that the current from the River Anadyr,
from which it comes in entering the Gulf of St. Croix, bears chiefly to the
West, although from the bearing of its shores the contrary would have been
anticipated. On no part of the shores of the gulf is the smallest trace of grow-
ing wood to be met with.
The establishment of the port appears to be S*" 50". The greatest rise was
7 ft., but usually it was 4V to 5 J ft. ; some former traces showed a rise of 9 ft.
The EIVER ANADxli, which gives its name to the gulf which receives
its waters, is the most considerable of those falling into the Sea of Behiing.
The Western Uiiion Telegraph was intended to follow the course of the river
up to some villages called Anadyrsk, some distance from its mouth. From this
it was to cross over to the head of the Sea of Okhotsk at Tigil, thence proceed-
ing to Ghijega.
The land round it is low, and in approaching the entrance of the inner bay,
into which it falls, there is a very curious island, to which the telegraph party
gave the name of Sarcophagus, from a supposed resemblance. The entrance
to this bay is about 5 miles wide. On the shore large herds of domesticated
reindeer graze.
The telegraph party who wintered on the Anadyr in 1867 found that blind-
ing snow storms were prevalent during winter, and between log-houses, not
more than 100 yards apart, it was found necessary to stretch a guiding rope
for the men. Reindeer meat was obtained in great quantities.
CAPE ST. THADDEUP is the S.W. cape of the Gulf of Anadyr. Behring,
perhaps, gave this name to a cape on August 21, (O, S.), being iu lat. 62° 42',
iH
■ . ■■.'■■■^\,
'ff
the sea in cliffy headlands.
Tlje Gulf of Olutorskoi was not examined by Capt. Liitke on account of tho
fog and its distance. Its western termination is a cape, which was supposed to
be Cafe Govenakoi, in about lat. 59° 50', long. 106° 18' E. It is high, bluff,
and cliffy, and over it are some high mountains.
Cape Ilpinikoi. — From the latter capo the last-named coast trends in a
curve VN' 1^ S. to Cape Ilpinskoi, where the coast suddenly becomes lower.
This cajx s in la*. 59" 48J', long. 164" 57'. I'rojecting from mountains of a
moderate hei)^, it advMvces to the S.W. in an even point, not very high, and
falling porpf / 'V'/>vilarly into the sea. According to Krachenninikoff, it is
joined to the continont by an isthmus so low and narrow that the sea washca
oyer it.
fCaLa
)luff cape
st in this
^.W. and
r. At 15
ne applied
ily to the
; less than
the name
uns S. by
to its con-
ain on its
ndioulai'ly
nds Arcii-
Is through
d is distin-
ras entirely
miles in
i at a great
his return,
on it. This
>, is in lat.
with three
is cape the
onkoi; and
ainous, and
count of the
supposed to
high, blutr,
trends in a
omes lower,
untains of a
ry high, and
inikoff, it ia
c sea w(V8hc8
I
COMMANDER ISLANDS- BEIIEING ISLAND.
721
Verkholoursky or Little Karaghinsky Island lies directly before Cape Ilpiu-
ekoi, and is in lat. 59° 37 J^', long. 164" 43'. It is of a round form, and 3 or 4
miles in circumference. On all sides except the N.W., where it is low, it falls
perpendicularly into the sea. The strait between the island and Cape Ilpiu-
skoi is 12 miles broad, and nearly in the middle of it is a dangerous reef,
awash, extending H or 2 miles East and West. In the centre is a small but
high rock. A little to the northward is a stony islet, and it may be presume*!
that there are other dangers.
From Cape Ilpinskoi the coast curves to the West and S. W., forming a hirgo
gulf, which is bounded to the South by the large Island of Karaghinsky. As
this bay forms one of the narrowest and the lowest portions of the peninsula of
Kamchatka, it is usually taken as tlie northern limit of that country ; the Bay
of Penjinsk, in the Sea of Okhotsk, forming the opposite coast.
Although a small portion of the coast to the southward may be included in
the shores of the Sea of Behring, we shall for the present quit them, leaving
them to be described in connection with the peninsula in the next Chapter.
COMMANDER ISLANDS.
These two islands, Beliring and Medn}' or Copper Islands, which still belong
to Russia, do not in reality form a portion of the Aleutian Archipelago, but
must be considered as a part of the chain connecting the volcanos of America
with those of Kamchatka.
The first Russian navigators gave them their present name of the Koman-
(lorski Islands, in memory of one of the most tragic events in the annals of
navigation — the death of Behring (known in these countries under his title of
Commander), on the westernmost island, which now bears his nsrnc. Captain
Lutke's voyage of the Seniavine has furnished us with the accounts of them.
The Alaska Commercial Company maintain a station on each island for pro-
curing seal-skins, &o- The inhabitants are about 300 in number.
BEHEING ISLAHD is nearly iM> miles long N.W. i N. and S.E. j S. Its
greatest breadth at the North end is 16 or 17 miles; to the S.E. it narrows,
and forms a pointed cape, in lat. 54° 42', long. 166° 45' E. A chain of moun-
tains, 2,200 ft. m height, extends throughout the island ; in its centre are some
peaks. They are in general higher in the South, and lower and more even in
the North. There are several small rivers, frequented by fish when spawning.
The South cape, called Cape Mamtti by Behring's companions, is conspicuous
by some high peaked rodts terminating it. From this the V.nsX coast trends
N. I W. iu steep clilfs to Cape Khitroff or Hitrova, in lat. 54° 66 , long.
166" 46' E. From this to the N.E. point. Cape Waxell or Vaksel, the coast
trends generally N.W. by N. J N. The N.E. extreme is an obtuse, low head,
projecting 3 miles into the sea. Reefs project from its North and East angles
North Fiwijio, 4 z
'i 111
I'
3> . ■ .i
("iWlLi
i
722
BEHEINO SEA.
i
n !
i- ,'
to a mile or more, and it seems that all this coast is bestrewed with rocks. In
the curve formed by the East coast is a small bay with a gaudy beac! , on
which is a large quantity of drift-wood.
Cape Youchin, the low N.W. extremity of the island, is in lat. 55° 21', long.
166" 58' E. From this point a dangerous covered reef extends 3 or 4 miles to
the North, on which, at nearly a mile from the shore, is a large uncovered rock.
Between Capes Waxell and Youchin the coast forms an open bay, bestrewed
with rocks, and about midway between them was a temporary establishment of
the Russian- American Company.
From Cape Youchin the coast trends to S.W. to the West extremity of the
island, in lat. S.O" 15', long. 165° 48' 30"; and thence to the S.E., in which
direction, at 10 miles farther on, was the Company's factoi-y, on the shore of a
small bay open to N.W., where, in summer, is tolerably good anchorage in 4
or 5 fathoms, sand, at three-fifths of a mile from shore. This bay is called
here the part : but it must be by contrast to the other unapproachable points.
Two islets abreast of the village, due West, are good marks to make the port;
the one, Toporkoff, is 2 miles, and the other, Arii Rock (Alcas Rock), at
nearly 6 miles. Between the two, rather nearest to Toporkoff, is a sunken
rock that only uncovers at low water, called Pohvintchnfy. To the north-
eastward of tliis again are some indications of sunken reefs, so that the North
side? of these islands should be avoided.
The 8.W. coast of the island, from the port to the South extreme, is entirely
unknown.
The spot where Behring died, as related on p. 062, is on the East side of the
island, at three-quarters of a mile W.N.W. from Cape Khitroif.
The water is very deep around the island. At from 4 to 6 miles off the N.E,
and North shores the depth was found to be 58 to 67 fathoms, muddy bottom
on the North side ; further to the East, stony bottom.
HEDNY ot COPPEE ISLAND is remarkable for its long and narrow
figure. The only island it resembles hereabout is Amiia. It is about 30 miles
in length, and its greatest breadth towards the middle is not more than 5 miles ;
it fiequently does not exceed 2 miles. It seems to be the crest of? moimtain
rising out of the sea in a S.E. J E. and N.AV. f W. direction. Medny Island
is scarcely lower than its neighbour, Behring Island ; seen from the Behring
Cross, as the snot where the commander p evished is termed, it appears to con-
sist of three islands. Its shores are very steep, clear in most parts, and tho
depth around very great. There are some reefs at its N.W. and S.W. extremities,
and at soiae other points, but they do not extend far off. The island is entirely
without anchorage for large ships; but on its N.E. side, at 10 miles from its
N.W. extreme, is a small bay, where small vessels may ride, with 6 and 7
fathoms in its entrance.
The outer coasts of the bay are high ; the S.W. side is clear, but on the
East side is a multitude of isolated rocks and stones, which shelter the port a
i: .:|1
COMMANDER ISLANDS— MEDNY ISLAND.
723
\
little from the North. These rocks, and a high conical mountain on the S.E.
side of the bay, serve as marks for entering. The rocks must be left to star-
board, and then steer direct for the village, and as soon as you reach as high
as a stone column on the West side of tlie little harbour, you must cast anchor
instantly, and at the same time moor the poop to the shore, for there is no room
for her to swing. You will have 2 and 2^ fathoms at half a cable's length from
the shore. The harbour is badly sheltered from the North, and to guard against
North winds always keep a suflScient scope of cable.
The Compauy's establishment was ' the South side of the harbour, in lat.
54" 47'. The latiiv'de of the N.W. extremity of the island is 64° 54', long.
167° 32' 30" E.
Medny (Mednoi or Copper, as the Russian name signifies) was thus named
on account of the native copper found here, and which was attempted to be
worked in the middle of the last century, but the poverty of the mine led to its
abandonment.
The climate of these islands is not very rigorous. There are no very intense
frosts in winter, but they have at times very heavy snow storms. In January
and February the N.W. and West winds bring the ice on the coasts in large
quantities. The weather is clear with N.E. and East winds ; it is overcast
with those from East and S.E. There are no active volcanos on either of the
islands, but earthquakes are frequent, the shocks of which are sometimes felt
for a long time. The highest tides rise about 6 or 7 ft. There are no trees on
cither island, but in the lower parts are some bushes.
After violent and long-oontinued winds, a large quantity of drift-wood is
thrown on to the shores, principally of those species that grow at Kamchatka,
but sometimes the cypress that grows on the American coast, and even the
■wood which only grows at Japan. Sometimes, also, lacquered vessels of wood,
of Japanese manufacture, have been found, which goes to prove that in this
part of the ocean the currents trend to North or N.E.
The Aleutes say that in some pai'ts of the strait, between the islands, there
are sunken rocks, but, as they have not yet been seen, this may be doubted.
One of 2 fathoms is marked on the chart, at about 10 miles WN.W. from the
N.W. end of Medny Iblund.
ll
( 724 )
!
n 4
I ' •!
I II
iJ
CHAPTER X.
KAMCHATKA, OKHOTSK, AND THE KUEILE ARCniPELAQO.
The first country described in this Chapter is the great peninsula of Kamchatka.
It lies between the parallels of 62° and 51° North latitude, and is consequently
about 800 English miles in length. The honour of the first discovery of
Kamchatka is attributed to Feodor Alexcieff, a merchant, about the year 1648.
The conquest of the peninsula was completed in 1706, and it has ever since
paid tribute, in fura, to the governor of Irkutsk. It was made a new province
by Imperial ukase of December 14th, 1849, and foi-med of the territory under
the administration of the sea-coasts of Kamchatka, and the district of Ghijinsk.
The natural limit of the peninsula would seem to be, as we have before stated,
at the bay to the West of Cape Ilpinsk. The civil division extends beyond this
to the River Olioutor.
The natives are of two races, the Kamtchadales and the Karinks or Koriaks,
whose territories are divided at Cape Oukinskoi. The Kamtchadales diifer
from them more in mode of life than physical conformation. They seem to
partake of the Mongolian l^pe.
Of the geography of the peninsula a few words may be said. Of the eastern
coast, with the exception of the few points imperfectly seen or observed by
Cook and other naviy:ators, the only delineation that existed for a long period
was that furnished by Behring. Capt. Liitke was despatched from St. Peters-
burg to minutely survey this coast in the Scniavine, in 1827-8. Delays and
contrarieties prevented this being done to the extent intended, and only some
of the more prominent features received the great attention which that com-
mander was capable of exercising in this exploration. That officer's work was
published in 1835-6. Professor Adolph Erman also employed some time in the
examination of various points on land, it has since then been examined by
EuBsian officers, and their chart was published in 1849 — 51. From these
and later authorities the following description has been derived.
Kamchatka is pre-eminently a country of volcanos. Some of the highest
peaks in the world surmount its mountain ranges. These mountains, which
cover about two-tlurds of the entire surface, form an irrrgiiLir chain in a N.N.E.
and S.S.W. direction. Mamy of their summits are in a l*igh state of volcanic
ELAGO.
Kamchatka,
onsequently
iiscoveiy of
5 year 1648.
i ever since
ew province
ritory under
if Ghijinak.
lefore stated,
beyond this
or Koriaks,
adales differ
hey seem to
f the eastern
observed by
long period
n St. Peters-
Delays and
id only some
(h that com-
r's work was
e time in the
examined by
From these
r the highest
itains, which
T in a N.N.E.
o uf volcanic
KAEAGIIINSKY ISLAND.
725
action ; and, considered as a whole, it may be supposed that they form a por-
tion of the great volcanic belt which extends through Aliaska and the Aleutian
Islands, and is continued on through the Kurilcs, Japan, and Formosa, to the
Asiatic Archipelago.
In the principal range running North from Cape Lopatka, its South extremity,
thirteen summits, with craters and hot springs, have been observed, one other
height being isolated, and lying West of the main range. The most active of
these are Assatchinskoi (8,340 ft.), Avatcha (8,760 ft.), and Klutchevskoi
(16,131 ft.). During an eruption of the first, in 1828, the scoria and ashes were
carried as far as Petropaulovski, 120 versts (80 English miles) distant.
There are no large rivers in Kamchatka. The configaration and formation
of the peninsula preclude this. The largest is the Kamchatka River, which,
however, is said to be capable of admitting vessels of 100 tons about 150 miles
up the stream.
The severity of the climate hos been exaggerated, though it is severe. In
some of the sheltered v.iUeys, which possess great natural beauty, the tempera-
ture is not very inclement. Perhaps a similar train of remarks would hold
good both for Japan and Kamchatka, that tliere is great difference between
the East and West faces of the country ; the former differing from the piercing
West winds passing over the ice and snow o ;' the continent of Asia. Of course
agriculture has been but little pursued. Its slender population know but few
wants, and these are supplied from the produce of the chase, as bears, lynxes,
otters, reindeer, foxes, &c. The skins of these form the principal export, and
but few supplies can be calculated on by vessels touchinr; here.
KARAGHINSKY ISLAND.— This island, and the adj:;cent coast, until the
time of Liitke's exploration in 1828, had not been seen by any known navigator,
except Syndt, since the time that Behring had seen one or two of its points
through the fog.
It is 57 miles in length, and an uninterrupted chain of mountains traverses
its length, declining towards the S.W., and rising again at the South end,
forming a hill about 700 ft. in elevation. The western coast is of an insigni-
ficant height ; all the shore of the North and East sides of the island is higher
and steeper. This causes a great difierence in the appearance of the opposite
coast, the steep ascents, the rugged or rounded summits, frequently rising to
1,250 ft. above the sea, and an Alpine vegetation, give it a mountainous
character.
Its N.E. extremity. Cape Golenichtcheff, in lat. 59° \^', long. 164° 40' E.,
is 23 miles South from the Island of Verkhotoursky. Its South end. Cape
Krnchenninikoff, in lat. 58° 28', long. 163° 32', is at the distance of 40 miles
from Cape Oukinskoi, on the coast of Kamchatka. P'rom the N.E. extremity
to the S.E., in the centre of the island, a chain of steep mountains extends, of
2,000 ft. in height, on the two flanks of which arc chains of less elevation.
At 13 or 14 miles from the S.W. cud of the island the mountains decline
1 *■
■s
I '■
t
>
1
'•. i
' t
:i^.
I' I*
w^sfs^amm
72(J
THE PENINSULA OF KAMCHATKA.
n
\
considerably in height, becoming more even and sloping, and at 6 miles from
this extremity is a low isthmus of 1^ mile broad, which, beyond 20 miles off,
gives the appearance of a separation of the higher hills to the southward.
Beyond the S.W. end the coast trending to the East forms a bay open to
N.N.E. and N. by W., but where there is rery convenient anchorage.
At 31 miles from the S.W. end, and at 27 miles from Cape Golenichtcheff,
a bed of gravel running off the N.W. coast extends 7 miles to the West and
S.W. Its point. Cape Simenofft is 13^ miles E. by S. ^ S. from Cape Kouz-
michtcheff on Kamchatka. It is low, and is from half a mile to 300 yards in
breadth. With the coast it forms a bay, open to all the S.W. quarter ; but,
notwithstanding this, it is an excellent roadstead.
The depth in the strait separating Karaghinsky from the continent is from
13 to 27 fathoms, most commonly a muddy bottom. It seemed as if there was
some bank at 4 or 5 miles to the S.E. of Cape Krachenninikoff, as a change in
the colour of the water was observed, and the soundings rapidly decreased to
] 2 fathoms.
Cape Ilpinskoi, which has been before alluded to, is the North point of the
large gulf which washes the eastern shores of the narrowest part of the Kam-
chatka Peninsula. It is in lat. 59° 48^', long. 164° 57', and is joined to the con-
tinent by a low and narrow isthmus, over which the sea washes.
Cape Kotizmichtcheff, the position of which is well determined as lat. 59° 5',
long. 163° 19', is steep, and is conspicuous by the direction of the coast on either
side, as to the northward it trends S.E. towards it, and to the southward it
runs W.S.W.
Earaghinskaia or Ukinsk Bay, formed to the northward by Cape Kouz-
michtchcff, penetrates the land for 9 miles in a N.W. direction, its breadth
being from 4 to 8 miles. At the head of the bay the River Karaya discharges
itself, in lat. 59° 8', long. 162° 59'. The shores of the river itself are low, but
mountains covered with wood rise at no great distance. A bed of gravel ex-
tends for 4 miles to the South of the mouth of the Karaga, and then the coast,
but little elevated, turns gradually to the S.E., and forming a cape in lat. 68° 55',
long. 163° 2' E., which is the southern limit of Karaghinskaia Bay.
Cape Ookinskoi, which was p".socd at a great distance by Captain Liitke,
forms the southern limit of a very extensive gulf, 60 miles in extent from North
to South, of which Karaghinskaia Bay may be placed on the North. Cape
Oukinskoi, or JSatchikinskoi, was considered by Capt. Liitke to be in lat. 57° 58',
long. 1 62° 47' E. It is low and level ; the position of the high and remarkable
mountain upon it is probably determined with greater precision ; its lat. is
57° 54', and its long. 162° 52 . This cape is the boundary between the Kamts-
chadales and the (Sedentary) Kariaks ; the first dwelling to the South, the
second to the North of it. The coast thence extends for 25 miles to the S.E.,
to a cape marked on the charts as Cape Ozernoi, in lat. 57° 35', long. 163" 14' E.
It is distinguished by a mountain slightly peaked.
f
>t 1
CAPE KAMCIIATSKOI.
727
The coast beyond this is formed of high and sloping mountnins, and nothing
remarkable occurs until the liiver Stolbovskaia is reached. The mouth of this
river is very distinct, and is in lat. 56° 40^', long. 162° 39'. At 10 miles from its
mouth the coast begins to be mountainous, and continues so for 15 miles.
Cape Stolbovox is a high cliff, in lat. 56" 40f , long. 163° 21' E., and before
it are three detached rocks, one very large. The coast from the cape towards
the Biver Stolbovskaia turns abruptly to the N.W., and soon aftcrvrards to
West and W.S.W. At 13 miles South from Cape Stolbovoi, in lat. 66° 27',
the chain of mountains is interrupted to give place to a very low valley, through
which, to the W.S.W. from seaward, there was no elevation visible between
the Klutchevskoi volcano. The coast in question trends nearly upon a meridian
for 35 miles South from Capo Stolbovoi. Throughout this extent, with the
exception just alluded to, the coast is high and mountainous, terminating on
the sea-coast often in slopes, but with cliffs in some parts, but it is throughout
fronted by an extensive reef. From the above distance the coast runs 12 miles
to S.W. to Cape Kamchatskoi, and continues fronted by a reef.
CAFE KAMCHATSKOI.— There was some doubt as to which was the actual
cape bearing this name. The coast here forms a sloping and slightly elevated
cape, which, seen from the S.E. at a great distance, would have the appearance
of a remarkably prominent point.
From Cape Kamchatka the coast runs N.W. and West to the mouth of the
River Kamchatka, a tortuous stream of no great size, having the village of
Sharon at its mouth. The entrance is marked by two small beacons, and has
a depth of 11 ft. on the bar at high water. There is a high signal-house near
a village 2 or 3 miles North of the entrance, and a pilot can bo procured if re-
quired. The land in the vicinity is low and flat.
Tlie river was ascended by Major Abasa, a Russian ofRcer in charge of the
Siberian part of the Western Union Telegraph expeditions, in August, 1865.
He went from this to Tigil on the Sea of Okhotsk. Nishni (New) or Lower
Kamchatka, near the mouth of the River Kamchatka, is the place to which
Behring brought the naval stores, and built the boat in which he started on his
voyage of discovery, July 20, 1728.
Klutchevskoi Volcano, the great mountain of Kamchatka, lies at the back
of the bay to the westward of Cape Kamchatskoi, in lat. 56° 8' N., long.
160° 45' E. This volcano, called also Kamchatskoi, and sumamed Klutchevskoi
or Klocheffskaia, from the name of the village Klutchi (springs), lying at its
foot on the South or right bank of the Eiver Kamchatka, is of a truncated, but
very steep, conical form. On its S.W. and N.E. sides are two other but lower
mountains, the first with a serrated summit, called by the Kumtschadales the
Needle, the second even. The volcano bears W. i S. from the mouth of the
River Kamchatka, and the extremity of Cape Kamchatskoi is 80 miles E. ^ S.
from it. Capt. Liitke calculates its height as 1 6,502 English feet. Piofes-sor
■!:.%
-.W'
^■4
i M
'•J " i^
m
i
llWi
::■.,£
•a
728
THE PENINSULA OF KAMCHATKA.
Krman measured it as 15,766 English feet; ho terms it the Peak of Kliuchevik.
Its height, as given oa the Russian charts, is 16,131 ft.
Dr. Erman states that he saw it in a picturesque and sublime activity, and
approached the burning lava, which poured forth a continuous stream, till hu
reached the height of 8,000 ft.
CAFE KRONOTSKOI, with a large detached rock off it, is in lat. 54° 54',
long. 162° 33'. The intervening coast between it and the river trends S.W.,
South, and then 30 or 40 miles S.E. by S. In the distance is seen the chain of
high snowy mountains, extending to the Klutchcvskoi Volcano. About 30 miles
S.S.W. of the cape is Cape Kosloff, and it is reported that the coast northward
of this is charted 15 miles too far East. Several rocks lie off the coast between
these capes. The northern shores of the Gulf of Kronotskoi, which extend in-
ward to the S.W. of the latter cape, were not examined by Liitke. The North
shore is low near the sea.
Kronotskoi Volcano, 10,610 English feet in height, stands on the North
side of the bay in question, in lat. 54° 45', long. 160° 37' E. It appears to bo
entirely isolated, and may be seen at 120 miles distant. Kronotskoi Volcano,
like that of Villcuchiiiski, has the form of a regular cone, but it seems to be
less steep than the latter. To the left of it is a mountain, the summit of which
was flattened, and close to it a peaked hill, probably the same that was over-
turned during the passage of the Chevelutch Mountain from its ancient to its
present site.
Between it and Joupano£f Volcano, to the southward, many high mountain
summits were seen, but not forming a continuous chain. In the southern part
of the bay, at 30 miles to the northward of Cape Shipunokoi, a cape projects
in the neighbourhood of which the mountains recede into the interior of the
country, leaving only a low coast. From this cape to Cape Shipunskoi the
coast is mountainous, and imperfectly known. It is said to be indented with
deep bays and inlets.
CAPE SHIPUNSKOI, or Tschipunski, in lat. 53° 6', long. 160° 5' E., is the
extremity of some level land, which advances 3 miles from the chain extend-
ing to the Joupanoff Volcano, and terminates on the sea-coast throughout in
rocky cliffs 200 ft. high. Seen from the S.W. or N.E., it has the same aspect
as that of a projecting and even cape, but on the S.E. the level appearance is
confounded with the other moimtains. Beyond the extreme point are some
detached rocks, which seem to be united by a reef. Capt. Liitke observed a
strong current off the cape which produced some overfalls.
Cape Nalatcheff, 22 miles W. J N. from Cape Shipunskoi, is a high, steep
mountain, the summit irregularly rounded, projecting in a point to the South.
The coast to the eastward of it is low and sandy near the sea, and rises towards
a chain of moderately high mountains, but which are steep, and terminate in
peaks; these extend to Cape Shipunskoi. Viewed from the S.W., this chain
seems interrupted in a part where Betchevinshaia Bay opens. Trading vessels
AVATCHA BAY,
729
used formerly to visit the little River Vakhihkaia, which debouches 5 miles
N.W. of this bay. The little liiver Kalakhtyrka, which enters the sea at 7
miles from the lighthouse cape of Avatcha Day, is pointed out by a rock of
moderate height, whitened by the dung of the sca-b:rdB, lying 2 versts {\\
English mile) to the South of it.
The coast between this river and Avatcha Bay is lofty, and terminates on
the shore, in many parts, in high cliffs. This space is intersected in one part
by a low isthmus, between the bottom of llakovya Bay and the sea, across
which the hunters who go to take birds from Toporkoff Island transport their
canoes.
AVATCHA BAY.*
This bay, the principal port of the Peninsula of Kamchatka, derives its chief
interest from its containing the port of St. I'eter and St. Paul, Petropaulski,
as much os from its intrinsic superiority. It is so extensive and excellent, I'uut
it would allow all the navies in the world to anchor in perfect security in its
capacious bnsin. Yet the navigator in entering it will at first see no sign of
human habitation or commerce on its shores, unless, perchance, some vessel may
be approaching or quitting its only port, the little town above mentioned.
It was visited by Captain (afterwards Admiral) Beechcy, in II.M.S. Blossom,
in 1827, who made an accurate and ample survey of it. In the narrative of the
voyage of the French frigate La Venus, under Capt. Du Petit Thouars, is a
lengthened account of it commercially and nautically, and from those and later
authorities we derive the following.
The Road of Avatcha, or the inner bay, lies at the bottom of the outer bay
of the same name, and is about 10 miles in diameter, with an average depth of
from 10 to 14 fathoms. It is reached through a narrow channel, which is 4
miles long, and about 1 mile broad. This strait, although thus narrow, is not
dangerous, because there is anchorage throughout its whole extent ; in it, as in
nearly all close channels, the winds are almost always either directly in or out
of it ; that is, they are either contrary or favourable for passing it. In case of
having to beat in, it is necessary to attend strictly to the leading marks.
The immense Bay of Avatcha, which leads to this channel, is formed by the
retreat of the coast-line between Capes Povorotni or Gavareah and Shipunskoi
or Cheponskoi ; these two capes are the best landfalls for making the Port of
Petropaulski. In fact, whether Cape Gavareah or Cape Shipunskoi is closed
with, if the vessel should be overtaken in either of these positions by thick
* It is written AtvaUka by Admiral Beocliey. Cupt. Du Petit Thouars and othora writo
Avatcha; Miillor says ^u'a^scAa ; or properly, according to Knmtac ha laiian pronunciation,
Suaalaeha. Mr. Whympor says that, notwithstanding tho variety of spelling', Avatcha is
the distinct English pronunciation of the name of tho place.
^^orih Pacific, 5 a
I y:i
li-m
r.^^
IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3}
//
^ .«^%
1.0
I.I
•^ m 12.2
20
11.25 III 1.4
Photographic
Sdences
Corporation
1.6
23 WIST MAIN STRUT
WIBSTH.N.Y. MStO
(716)a73-4S03
4io
m
THE PENINSULA OF KAMCHATKA.
fogs or strong winds from East or S.E., it is always possiblo to keep at seat
should the endeavour be to moke the channel nt once on its parnllcl, not only
will the making the coast be retarded without any advantage being gained, but
should she then be surprised by any contrariety, there is no means of making
an advantageous tack in order to keep off, and the situation of the ship will be
troublesome, there being no soundings on the coast, and neither do they offer
any anchorage which could be taken in such circumstances.
If you arrive by night oti the entrance to the bay, and the wind should Le
contrary for entering, it will be dangerous to attempt to enter the port without
the assistance of a pilot, or unless well aequaintcd with it.
With contrary winds, with wind too light to steer, or during calm, the currents
and narrowness of the entrance render the navigation difBcult ; but the possi-
bility of anohoring throughout diminishes the danger. With a leading wind,
the entering or leaving Avatcha Bay offers neither difficulty nor danger.
If the currents affect the steering, which, in a light breeze, frequently happens
in the entrance, it is well to anchor in Ismenai Bay, on the East side of the
entrance, or, if necessary, in any part of the channel.
£IOHT.— On Dalni Point, the eastern point of the entrance, a /xed bright
light is shown, elevated 449 ft., and visible 24 miles, between E. by N. and
N.W. } W., round by South. It is only lighted occasionally, and owing to its
great elevation it is often obscured by fog. Lat. 52° 52' N., long. 158" 47' E.
There is telegraphic communication with Petropaulski.
The light may be approached without any risk, by means of the lead, and
there is pnchorage close to it.
There is no particular precaution necessary for safety in anchoring in Avatcha
Bay. The sea is never so heavy as to occasion any trouble ; but as the bay is
surrounded by high mountains, violent gusts are sometimes felt, so that, for
greater security and quietude, it is better to have a long hawser out. Lieut.
Stephens, II.M.S. Eyeria, says that vessels should moor.
The tidal currents are very irregular, both in form and duration ; they wcro
never found more than at 2 miles in the entrance, or 1^ mile in the road.
Fetropaultki Harbour, on the eastern side of this bay, is small, deep, and
well shut in. It is defended by three raking batteries.* A vessel, of what-
ever size, can enter it, and undertake any description of repairs.
• During tho Crimeaa war PetropauUki wa* attucked by nn allied fleet of lix ihipi,
French and Englitb, with a result by no means a subject of congratulntion to us. On
August 28th, 1S64, the ships opened firo on the outer batterioa, and the Itussiani retumod
it with groat spirit. Ultimately an ilUjudged landing was made of 700 men, during tho
unprotected march of whom almost all the officers were picked AT. Having lost theii
loaders, the men fell back in disorder, and were repulsed with a loss of 107 Knglish. Tho
■hips then bore off. This victory was the cause of very gro:it surpris .' and self-gratulation
to the defenders of this poor little town. When tho fleet rt turned in tho :v>llowing spring.
May and June, 1866, they found (he place abandoned, and it fill, of course, a very easy
prey. — Mr, Whymptr.
'y
AVATCIIA DAY.
731
f
TtiretHtlii Ilurhour, lying in the S.W. port of the bny, is extensive nnd ex-
cellent ; but as there is neither population nor trade in it, it has, up to the
present time, been of no utility.
JRakovya Harbour also forms, to the South of Petropaulski, an equally excel-
lent port, but it is of less easy access than the foregoing, on account of Ita*
kovya Dank, lying in the middle of the channel lending to it.
Windi, — In fine weather the morning breez« is from the North to N.N.W.,
lasting until 8 or 10 o'clock, and sometimes eron until 1 1 o'clock ; then, shift-
ing to the West and South, it sinks altogether ; in the afternoon, about 1 or 2
o'clock, the breeze from the offing sets in, varying from South towards East.
After the middle of Uotober the weather becomes wet, and then snow falls in
abundance ; the inner harbour becomes frozen over, and remains so till May
or June. Violent storms are experienced in November, December, and January.
Direotioni.*— It is desirable to make the coast well to the southward of Capo
Oavareah, and to round it as closely as possible, as the wind will, in all proba-
bility, veer to the northward on passing it. If the weather be clear, two moun-
tains will be seen to the West and N.W. of the cape, and one far off to the
northward and eastward. The eastern one of the two fbrmer, called VilUuchimki,
is 7,372 ft. high, and peaked like a sugarloaf, and is in lat. 52' 42', long.
158° 22' E. The highest and northernmost of the three is the Mountain of
Avatcha, in lut. 53° 21' N., long. 158° 47' £. ; ito height is 11,500 ft., and in
clear weather it maybe seen a very considerable distance. Koteltkoi Volcano
the centre hill of the three, emits very little smoke.
These peaks are the best guide to Avatcha Bay, until near enough to distin<
guish the entrance, which will then appear to lie between high perpendicular
cliffs. Upon the eastern one of these, the lighthouse bluff, there are a hut and
signal-staff, and when any vessel is expected a light is sometimes shown. If
the harbour be open, a large rock, called the Jiaboushka, will be seen on the
western side of the channel, and three others, named the Brothers, on the
eastern side, off the lighthoiue. The channel lies in a N. by W. direction,
true ; and when the wind is fair, it may be sailed through by keeping in mid-
channel ; but it frequently happens that vessels have to beat in, and as the
narrowness of the channel renders it necessary to stand as close to the dangers
as possible, in order to lessen the number of tacks, it is requisite to attend
strictly to the leading marks.
The outer dangers are a reef of rocks lying S.E., about IJ or 2 miles from
the lighthouse bluff, and a reef lying off a bank which connects the two caj .s
opposite, i.e. Slanitki Point, with the capo to the southward. To avoid tho
lighthouse reef, do not shut in the land to the northward of the lighthouse
bluff, unless certain of being at least 2^ miles off shore, nnd when within
• These dtroctiens «r« by Admind Becobey, m given in the Appendix to the Voj-agc of
tbo Bhuontt
732
THE PENINSULA OF KAMCHATKA.
; r
thrce-quniicrs of a mile onh , tack when the lighthouse bluff bean North, or
N. i £. Brothers Rock, in one with the lighthouse, leads close upon the edge
of the reef. At night, if the light be visible, keep it in sight bearing N.W>
There is anchorage with the lighthouse bearing N.E.
The first danger on the western shore has a rock above water upon it, and
may be avoided by not opening the Baboushka with the cape beyond, with a
flagstaff upon it, or by keeping Staniski Point well open with the said South
signal blttCr. In standing towards this rock, take care that the ebb tide in par*
tieular does not set you upon it. A good working mark for all this western
shore is the Baboushka open with Direction Bluff, the last cape or hill on the
h/t upon the low land, at the head of Avatcha Bay ; but there is a 3^ -fathoms
patch lying just East of this mark, abreast the North part of the cliffs round
Staniski Point. The bay South of Staniski Point is filled with rocks and foul
ground.
The lighthouse reef is connected with the Brothers, and the cape must not
be approached in any part within half a mile, nor the Brothers within a full
cable's length. There are no good marks for the exact limit of this reef off the
Brothers, and consequently ships must estimate that short distance. They must
also here, and once for all, in beating through this channel, allow for shooting
in stays, and for the tides which, ebb and flood, sweep over toward these rocks,
running S.E. and N.E. They should also keep good way on the vessel, as the
eddy currents may otherwise prevent hci coming about.
To the northward of the Brothers, two-thirds of the way between them and
a rugged cape, named Pinnacle Point, at the South extreme of a large sandy
bay (Ismenai Bay), there arc some rocks nearly awash; and off Pinnacle Point,
which lies N.N.W. 1^ mile from the lighthouse, there is a small reef, one of
the outer rocks of which dries at half-tide. These dangers can almost always
be seen ; their outer edges lie nearly in a line, and they may be approached
within a cable's length. If they are not seen, do not shut in the Rakovya or
North signal bluff. Off Pinnacle Point the lead finds deeper water than in
mid-channel, and very irregular soundings.
When northward of Staniski Point the Baboushka may be opened to the
Mstward a little with the South signal bluff North of it, but be careful of a
shoal which extends about 3 cables South of the Baboushka. The Baboushka
has no danger to the eastward, at a greater distance than a cable's length; and
when it is passed there is nothing to fear on the western shore, until N.N. W.
of the signal-staff, off which there is a long shoal, with only 2 ond H fathoms.
The water shoals gradually towards it, and the helm may safely be put down
in Ai fathoms; but a certain guide is, not to open the western tangent of
Baboushka with Staniski Point South of it. There is no other danger on this
side of the entrance.
When a cable's length North of Pinnacle Keef, you may stretch into Itmenai
Bajf, guided by the soundings, which are regular, taking care of a S-fathoms
AVATCHA BAY.
7«S
knoll which lies Imlf-wny between Pinnacle Point and the sceond cliflT, 7 cables
northward of it. 'litis bay affords good anchorage, and it may bo convenient
to anchor there for a tide. There is no other danger than the above-mentioned
Itnoll. Iimena't Rock, the large square rook at the northern part of this bay,
may be passed at a cable distance. This rock is connected with the land to
the northward by a reef, ond in standing back towards it. Pinnacle Point must
be kept open of the lighthouse bluff; when in one, there is but 3^ fathoms.
Rakovya or North bluff signal-staff to the northward, in one with the bluff
South of it (which had a large green bush overhanging its brow), will place
you in 5 fathoms, close to the rocks.
Off the North bluff of Ismenai Bay there extends a small reef to a full cable's
length from the shore ; until this is passed, do not shut in Pinnacle Foint with
the lighthouse bluff. But to the northward of it you may tack within a cable's
length of the bluffs,'extending that distance a little off the signal-staff bluff, in
consequence of some rocks which lie off them.
Northward of Bakovya signal-staff the only danger is Rakovya Shoal,
three-quarters of a mile long E.S.E. and W.N.W., and 3 cables wide, with a
depth of 6 ft. on its shoalest part, lying in the middle of the entrance to
Bakovya Harbour. Upon its West part there is a buoy in summer, and to
clear this keep the Brothers in ciyhf.
There is no good mark for determining when you are to the northward of
this shoal, and as the tides in their course up Bakovya Harbour are apt to set
you towards it, it is better to keep the Brothers open until you arc certain, by
your distance, of having passed it (its northern edge is seven-eighths of a mile
from Bakovya bluff), particularly as you may now stretch tc the westward as
far as you please, and as there is nothing to u "itruct your beat up to the an-
chorage. The ground is everywhere good, and a person may select his owr berth.
Rakovya Harbour, on the eastern side of Avatcha Bay, will afford good
security to a vessel running in from sea with a southerly gale, at which time
she might find difficulty in bringing up at the usual anchorage. In this case,
Bakovya Shoal must be rounded, and left to the northward ; 5 and 5^ fathoms
will be found close upon the edge of it, but the water should not be shoaled
under 9 fathoms.
The little Harbour of Petropaulski is a convenient place for a refit of ony
kind. In entering, it is only necessary to guard against a near approach to the
signal-staff on the peninsula on the West. The sandy point may be passed at
a few yards' distance.
Weighing from the anchorage, off the peninsula flagstaff, with light winds,
and with the beginning of the ebb, it is necessar}* to guard against being swept
down upon Bakovya Shoal, and, when past it, upon the signal bluff on the same
side. There are strong eddies all over this bay, and when the winds are light,
ships often become unmanageable. It is better to weigh with the last drain of
the flood.
I
194
THE PENINSULA OF KAMCHATKA.
Tfireintki Harbour, at the 8.W. angle of Aviitclia Boy, ia on excellent port,
but it is not frequented. It has no dangers, and may bo safely entered.
It is high wnfer at i^etropaulski, on full and change, at 3^ 30" ; the tide rises
6 feet 7 inchcjs at spring tides, and A\ feet nt ncnps.
The old church at Petropaulski is in lat. .53° 1' 0" N., long. 158° 43' 30" E.,
according toCapt. Beechey, but later authorities place it in long. 158° 39' 15'.
PETROPAULSKI stands in an amphitheatre on the slopes of two hilUt
which form the valley, and is simply composed of n group of small v ooden
houses, covered with reeds or dry grass, and surrounded by courts and gardens,
with palisades. It was founded in 1790 by Ivnn Jelagin, Behring's pilot, and
named after the two vessels of the exjiedition. At its lower part, in the bottom
of the valley, is the old church, remarkable for its fantastic construction, but
fast falling into ruins. A new church has been built by an American Fur
Trading Company, and at the back of it are the Company's premises.
In approaching Point Shakoff, as the extremity of the peninsula forming the
harbour was named, and on which is a battery, perhaps a white buoy will be
seen, marking the extremity of a bank having 3 fathoms on it, extending nearly
a quarter of a mile S.S.E. {true) from it ; two prominent white monuments in
the cemetery in line lead clear of it. This may be passed close to,* leaving
it to the left, and thence steer to the end of a low point of land which projects
at on angle of about 45° from the direction of the coast, and nearly closes the
bottom of the bay, making it into an excellent natural harbour, the best that
can be desired. This tongue of land, like an artificial causeway, is but little
above the surface of the water, and is now covered with halagans, huts raised
on piles above the ground, serving to dry fish. In the early days of the Russian
occupation it was the site of the colony. Arrived at the bottom of the port you
land on a plank, which holds the place of a mole.
Mr. 'Whymper, who was here in 1865 and 1866, says : — With the exception
of a few decent houses, the residences of the Russian officials and foreign mer-
chants, the town makes no great shew. The poorer dwellings are very rough
indeed, and are almost exclusively rude leg cabins. The only noticeable build-
ing is the old Greek church, which has painted red and green roofs, and a
belfry entirely detached from the building. Petropaulski was once a military
post, and had a rather larger population than at present. The Cossack soldiers
have now been removed to the Amoor.
The Russian- American Company had at one period stations in Petropaulski,
ond other parts of Kamchatka, but abandoned them, owing doubtless to the
competition of private traders. It is now one of the centres of the fur trade,
* Kooping the South end of the cliff under the cemetery bearing N.E., until within a
oalle's length of the beach, when the church will appear in the centre of the valley, leads
southward of this ahoal, after which the diruct channel to the Inner harbour htu nothing
less than 6 fathomi.— F. 0, Rohtrti, Matter, S.X., JI.U.S. " rmidtHt," 1856.
AVATCHA DAY— PETROPAULSKI.
735
but Nijui (new) Kamchatka is the present capital. Uolcheretsk ^tbj considered
the principal town formerly, but hcs dwindled down to an inconsiderable Tilkge,
and indeed the popuIatL^n, and with it the production of Kamchatko, is on the
decline. Yet the climate is by no means so bad as commonly beliered. Colonel
Bulkley, of the Telegraph Expedition, considered that it was better than that
of some of the New England States and Canada, and was quite certain that
agriculture was possible.
A vessel in need of repair will only find safe anchorage in Avatcha Bay, and
roust depend on her own resources both for provisions, workmen, and refit>
ments for the ship. It is, however, possible to procure, in urgent cases, some
slight aid from the Government stores, ond some workmen of the port ; but
these assistances, besides being limited, are very precarious. Wood is difficult
to get, but water is easily obtained. A supply of fresh beef nuiy be procured,
and a little fresh butter, but it is difficult to get poultry or eggs. There are no
sheep or pigs. Fish is abundant in the bay in the season ; it begins with cod
and is followed by salmon and <;almon-trout.
The Coatt.— The eastern coast of Kamchatka, between Cape Qavareah and
Capo Lopatka, is very little known ; it trends to the S.W. i S., the shores in
many places being lined with rooks. From the entrance of Avatcha Bay the
coast trends nearly due South for 33 miles to Cape Pocorotni, northward of
which are Littventch and Akhomten Bayt, where anchorage may be had with
fair shelter from westerly winds. From Cape Povorotni the coast trends
S.S.W., 24 miles, to a high headland named Cape Piratkoff, and between them
nre Muhuiia and Aaatcha Bavs. Southward of this the laud is not so high
and broken as to the northward. The coast is steep and bold, and full of white
chalky patches. The hills break abruptly, and form chasms and deep valleys,
which are well wooded.
At 14 miles S.W. of Capo Piratkoff is Cape Khadulka, forming the North
point of a large bay. The South extreme terminates in a conspicuous steep
reddish bluff. Cape Jelti, about 20 miles S.W. of Cnpe Khadutka, is from 300
to 400 ft. high, with precipitous red cliffs. Anchorage may be obtained on its
South side, protected by a reef to the East and an island to the southward.
From hence to Cape Lopatka the distance is about 60 miles.*
CAPE LOPATKA, the South extremity of Kamchatka, is inlat. 50° 52f N.,
long. 150° 45'. It is u very low, flat, sandy cape, sloping gradually from the
high level land to the North, and to the N.W. of it is a remarkably high moun*
* It wu on this part of tho coast that tho tingular ocourronceof the wreck of a JapancBo
vcBscl occurred in July, 1729. In a former page (301) wo have ipoken of such an event
having occurred on the coo&t of Oregon, and another will be mentioned at the Sandwich
Ittlunda. All these fads, which doubtless oiight be multiplied, would tend to prove that
tho winds and currents in tho western portion of the North Pacific hare a great analogy to
those of tho North Atlnntic ; the same progress of the cyclones, or revolving btorms, and
736
KURILE ISLANDS.
8 ;■
tain. lU name, Lopatka, signi6es the bladebone of a mnn, or a shovel, and m
ezpretsive of it* form. It extends from the South end of the peninsula 10 or
15 miles, and is about half a mile broad. A small iHlct lies to the S.R. of it,
eastward of which breakers were seen at a mile off shore. On the West side
of the cape extensive reefs project about 7 miles to the N.W.
Knrilr dv Ait, the passage between this cape and Shumshu, the N.W. Kurile
Island, is ^bout 8 miles broad, and very dangerous, on occount of the strong
currents and the sunken rocks on either side, which narrow it to a width of 3
miles, llie depth in this strait is 10 to 20 fathoms, and from its East end a
W.N.W. course leads safely through.
KUBIIE ISLAHD8.
»
This extensive chain of islands extends nearly in a uniform S.W. line from
the South extremity of Kamchatka to the North point of the Island of Yczo,
a distance of about 650 miles.
JioutioU Channel separates the chain into two portions ; that to the nok'th-
ward was formerly claimed by Russia; but in 1875 the northern portion was
ceded by Sussia to Japan, in exchange for the Japanese possessions in Saghaliu
Island, so that the entire archipelago now belongs to Japan.
The northern portion is all apparently of volcanic origin ; indeed the whole
chain may be looked upon us a series of submerged mountains, a continuation
of the mountain chain traversing Kamchatka through its whole length.
Of the southern portion the most considerable islands are Urup, Iturup,
Kunashire, and Tschikotan or Spanbcrg Island. On these there are military
posts for defence, and establishments for facilitating the commerce with the
Ai'uos, the native inhabitants. The name Kurile is derived from the Kamt-
ehadalc word for " smoke," the volcanic islands having been seen from Lopatka.
The islands are all surrounded by fields of sea-weed.
Our acquaintance with the configuration of the Kurile Islands moy be con-
sidered as tolerably complete. This result w&s one of the most difficult problems
in hydrography. The fog in which the group is constantly enveloped ; the
violent currents experienced in all the passages or straits separating them ; the
steepness of their coasts, and the impossibility to anchor near the land, are such
formidable obstacles, that it tries to the utmost the patience and perseverance
of the mariner to acquire any knowledge respecting them. We are much fu-
debtcd to a Russian Comraauder, Capt. Golownin, or Qolovninc, who, in 1811,
tho same drift to the N.E. oo its West side. The vesiul ia question was bound from
Satsuma tor another Japanese port called Ozuka. Sho was driven from her course by a
violoat storm to eea, where thoy rtmiiined for tix months, and at last reached this coast and
cast anchor. Tho crow, seventeen in number, landed and encamped, but they were all sliot
but two by a treacherous Coisack, who was afterward* hung. The two survivors wen srg Island. It is called in Cook's Toyngc Nadergida.
^r 's a desolate island, about 12 miles in diameter, rising to ^ iicight of nearly
1,500 ft. near its S.W. side. Its centre is in lat. 43° 60' N., long. 146° 49' E.
Its northern and eastern sides appear to be indented by several deep bays or
inlets. The space between Skotan and Cape Noyshaf, the N.E. point of Yezo,
is much contracted by islands, rooks, and reefs, named Walvis Islands by Do
VricB ; the only safe channel is between Skotan and the northern island.
KUHASIBI, or Kunaihire Island, the last of the Kuriles, is separated from
Iturup by Pico or Kunatiri Channel, which is about 14 miles wide, and was
first traversed, in 1643, by Capt. Yries; next by Capt. Lofifzoff, in the Russian
ship St. Catherine, in 1793 ; Capt. Broughton, in 1797 ; and Capt. Golownin,
in 1813, alse successfully passed through this strait. Lieut. Neville, ll.M.S.
Cormorant, reports that he observed a line of heavy breakers extending right
across this channel, the sea breaking perpendicularly 20 to 25 ft. high.
Kunasiri Island is about 66 miles in length N.E. | E. and S.W. i W., and
is high, St. Anthony or Tichatchanohury Peak, near the N.E. end, being
7,400 ft. high, and showing two distinct cones, rising one above the other. The
island is stated to be surrounded with rocks and dangers. Krusenstem named
the N.iS. point Cape Loffzoff.
The S.W. part of Kunashire forms Itmen Bay, named by the officers of the
Diana the Bay of Traitors, because it was here that the Japanese, after in-
viting Captain Golownin to land, seized him and made him prisoner. The two
points forming the bay lie in a N.W. } W. .'Od S.E. | E. direction, 6 miles
apart. The western point is a tongue of sand almost awttiih, with shallow water
off it, appearing to run to the S.W. across to the Yezo s^ore. The bay has a
depth of 3f fathoms, and at its head is the village of Tomari, the inhabitants
living on fish. The village is in about lat. 43° 44' N., long. 146" 33' E.
l! i>
'Wwirr
THE SEA OF OKHOTSK.
The flood tide, which hardly rises beyond 4^ ft., comes from the East, aad
directs itself along the coast, and turns around the S.W. point towards the
strait which separates Eunashire from Yen>, and called the Strait of Veto.
TiuM will be described hereafter.
THE SEA OP OKHOTSK.
The Se* of Okhotsk, surrounded as it is on aV its nurthem and western sides
by the continent, and to the S.E. by the range of the Kurile Archipelago, may
be considered as completely landlocked. In this respect, as well as in size and
general situation, it is not unlike Hudson's Bay.
The coast to the S.W. of Okhotsk was surveyed, but not verbally described,
by Sarytsoheffand Tomine; and of the Shantar Islands, and the great Island
or Peninsula of Saghalin, we have the details given by Broughton and Kruscn-
stem. In addition to these we have some details in the Russian charts of
1849 — 51, but nothing satisfactory.
We have few particulars respecting the open sea, its currents, or its sound-
ings ; but it is known to resemble the Sea of Pehring in its shallowness, though
it is somewhat deeper. The shores are closely surrounded by mountains,
which occasions all the rivers, with one exception, to be insignificant in their
magnitude.
The only river falling into this vast basin is the Amur, if indeed the Amur
can fairly be said to do so, terminating as it does in a bay, which, being bounded
in front by Saghalin Island, opens by one strait into the Sea of Okhotsk, and
by another into the Qulf of Tartary.
One feature of interest in this remote expanse of waters is the field it offers
for the whale fishery. Whales have at times been found to be very numerous,
and of late years the hardy American whalemen have here pursued successfully
their gigantic game.
Whaling vessels frequent this sea from the beginning of July to the begin-
ning of October, few, if any, being in it by the 10th of October. The shores
are covered with ice from November to April, but the main expanse continues
open throughout the year, and, being generally deep without any apparent
danger, its navigation is safe, notwithstanding the fogs and storms with which
it is often visited.
in former years, as before stated, the whaling fleet interfered very greatly,
by their trading, with the privileges of the Bussian- American Company, a fact
which formed one great inducement for the Russian Government to transfer
the Territory of Alaska to the United States. Since that transfer, the Oovenior-
Oeneral of Eastern Siberia has declared that the Sea of Okhotsk shall be con-
sidered as a closed sea, and that vessels which enter it for the whale fishery
ahnll pay a duty equal to 10 roubles per annum. The number of vessels
hitherto so engaged here has varied from 200 to 500. Permission is also
BOLCHERETSE.
743
neeenMrjr for foreign vessels wishing to trade, &e., on the Russian coasts and
islands of the Behring Sea, and should be obtained at Vladivostok.
Care must be exercised in approaching the shores, as in many parts their
longitude on the chart may be erroneous. Northward of the Gulf of Amur
navigation during the summer months in unsurveyed waters is less dangerous
than would at first appear, as in case of fog anchorage may commonly be found
when near the land.
CAFE lOPATKA, the South extremity of Kamchatka, has been described
on page 736.
The Western Coast of Kamchatka is uniformly low and sandy, for about
25 to 30 miles inland, when the mountains commence. It produces only
willow, alder, and mountain ash, with some scattered patches of stunted
birch trees. The runs of water into the sea from the mountains do not, with
the exception of the Bolshaya or Bolchoireka, deserve the name of rivers,
though they are all well stocked with fish from the sea in the season, as trout,
and difl'erent species of salmon. They are generally at the distance of 15 to 20
miles from each other. The Itsha and the Tigil are the next most consider-
able ; and neither of them have a course, with all the windings, of more than
100 miles.
Off the western coast of Kamchatka the sea is shallow to a considerable
distance ; and the commanders of transport vessels, who never lose sight if
the exposed coast if they can help it, judge of their distance from the land, in
foggy weather, by the soundings, allowing a fiftthom for a mile; nor is there at
the entrance into any of the rivers more than 6 ft. at low water, with a con*
siderable surf breaking on the sandy beach.
Bolcheretsk is the place that is best known to Europeans on the West coast,
though its present insignificance scarcely deserves notice. It was the seat of
the government of Kamchatka previous to its removal to Petropaulski. Of
course this abstraction has diminished its little importance, and it is therefore
seldom or never visited now by commercial vessels. The expeditions under
Captains Cook and Clerke visited it overland from Avatcha Bay. Capt. King's
description of it is as follows : — " Bolcheretsk is situated in a low swampy
plain, that extends to the Sea of Okhotsk, being about 40 miles long, and of a
considerable breadth. It lies on the North side of the Bolchoireka (or great
river). Below the town the river is from 6 to 8 ft. deep, and about a quarter
of a mile broad. It empties itself into the Sea of Okhotsk, at the distance of
22 miles ; whnrc, according to Kracbenninikoff, it is capable of admitting ves«
scls of a considerable size."
The villageb on this coast, beyond Bolcheretsk, are Itshinsk and Tigilsk,
situated on thu lUha and Tigel or Tigil Eivert. Itthintk, lat. 65° 55', contains
a church, and about ten houses. Besides these, there are eight inoonsiderablo
villages, containing each three or four houses, on the West coast.
:a about lat. 57° 8' is Hargatoff Point, northward of which is a group of
744
THE SEA OF OKHOTSK.
■^■
islaads and rocks. At 20 miles S.W. of the point is Moroshelehnoe Biver,
and about 10 miles inland a volcano. Thence to the southward the land be-
eomes low. Cape Utkoloktki, about 60 miles north-eastward of Hargasoff
Point, consists of high precipitous cliffs, its North point forming a peak with a
bluff 400 ft. high. Cape Omgon, 16 miles farther on, has somewhat the same
appearance. The tides hereabout follow the trend of the coast, the flood set-
ting northward ; at springs they run 3 or 4 knots, and form heavy races off the
prominent headlands.
TIOEL BIVEB, about 18 miles eastward of Cape Omgon, is a considerable
stream,' with a village just inside the bar. Beef, fish, and milk are plentiful ;
potatoes are also grown. About 30 miles up it is the Russian settlement Fort
Tiye/, called by the Russians a fortified town, built in 1752. Sauer says it
contained forty-five wooden houses and a church. It is surrounded by wooden
palisades, and is a place of some importance in Kamchatka, as the Koriak and
Tchuktchi tribes gather round it in Januory, to exchange their furs for tea,
coBec, powder, lead, &c.
Vessels drawing 14 ft. can cross the bar at high water, and moor off the
village. There is good anchorage off the entrance in 6 fathoms, with Cape
Omgon bearing W. by S., and the bar beacons in line S.E. by E. It is high
water, on full and change, at ll** ; springs rise 22 ft. The tides run with great
velocity, the flood to N.E.
0HIJIK8K OVLF, forming the N.E. portion of the Sea of Okhotsk, is but
very little known in a nautical view. Its entrance lies between Cape Utkolokski,
on Kamchatka, in lat. 57° 50' N., long. 157° 18' E., and Cape Bligan, in lat.
58° 40', long. 151° 35'. Within this line it extends about 150 miles in a N.E.
direction, when it divides into two narrower gulfs, separated by the promontory
terminating in Cape Taigcnots.
Fenjinak Onlf, the eastern arm, extends as far North as lat. 62° 25', and its
shores are quite unknown. Puttareik, according to M. Lesseps, in 1788, in
about lat. 61° 0' N., long. 162° 30' E., is a small village on the side of a hill,
the foot of which is bathed by the sea. The river cannot be called such ; it is
merely a narrow inlet of the sea, reaching to the foot of the above mountain.
Kaminoi, at the head of the gulf, is an ottrog, or village, about 300 versts distant
from Pustaresk. It is on an elevation nearly on the sea shore, and at the mouth
of the Eiver Fenjina, in lat. 62° 0' N., long. 162° 50' E.
The western gulf extends about 90 miles to the northward, shoaling gra>
dually towards its head. From Cape Telanaki, a bold headland, with an island
off it, on the East side of its entrance, to Oighiga River, at its head, the coast
consists of bold precipitous cliffs, with small indentations here and there. At
21 miles N. ^ W. of Cape Telanski is Cape Khalpih, off which lie the cliffy
Morskaia Matuga Iilandt, the one nearest the cape, about 250 ft. high, having
a high tower-like bluff on its northern face. Cape Varchalam, 25 miles to the
northward, should be approached with great caution, sunken rocks lying off it.
«i
GIIIJINSK GULF— OKHOTSK.
745
Oighiga Biver is navigable for vessels of light draught. At the entrance
is a trading station, and 1 2 miles up the river is Ghij'ega, the Russian settle*
ment. During the open season njixed bright light is shown from a small light*
house on the East bank of the entrance. It is high wateri on fuU and change,
atS**; springs rise 24 ft.
Oh^ega, or Fort Ghijimk or Jijiginsk, in lat. 62° 10', long, 160° 15', at the
head of the gulf to which it gives its name, stands on the river of the same
name, and frora without appears as a square enclosure defended by a palisade,
according to M. de Lesseps. The houses are all of wood, very low, and nearly
all of a uniform elevation. The population were all members of, or attached
to, the Russian service, and numbered 310 in 1881. The commerce is chiefly
in furs, and that principally reindeer skins. Reindeer flesh and salmon can be
procured here.
" The Ghijinsk of the charts is situated on the riv«r of the same name, about
8 miles frora the coast of the Ghijinsk Gulf It is an insigaificant village of
200 or 300 people, but it has more importance than its size would lead to the
belief. It is the seat of the local government, and is a centre of trade with
regard to the fur trade of the district. It is also the only place for several
hundred miles around where the poor Russian settler, or the semi-civilized
Kamtchatdale, can get any teo, sugar, or vodka (whiskey). The governor, or
Isprasnik, has only 25 Cossacks under him, and has no power to visit a
hundredth part of his immense territory." — Mr. Whymper.
It was made one of the stations of the intended Western Union Telegraph
icute. Mr. Knox, who came here in the summer of 1866, in charge of this
part of the expedition, docs not describe it cs a terrestrial paradise, the climate
being very unhealthy.
The North Coast of the Sea of Okhotsk, from Ghijinsk Bay to Okhotsk, a
distance of 400 miles westward, is almost unknown, and we can therefore give
no description of it.
OKHOTSK was formerly the principal seaport, if it deserve such a name, of
the sea to which it gives the appellation. It stands on the N.W. side of the
sea, in lat. 59° 20' N., long. 143'' 14' E.
The shallowness of the water a long way off from the entrance of the harbour,
and the violence and cross set of the tides ot the harbour's mouth, preclude
the possibility of Okhotsk being an easily accessible port, except for a small
vessel. The river, which is only accessible from June to September, has only
9 ft. water in its mouth.
Okhotsk was visited by Sir George Simpson in his overland journey. He
arrived here fron; Sitka, June 27th, 1842. " Okhotsk, now that we had reached
it, appeared to have little to recommend it to our favour, standing on a shingly
beach so low and flat ns not to be distinguished at our distance from the adjacent
waters. We saw nothing but a number of wretched buildings, which seemed
^orth Pacijic, 5
::l
746
THE SEA OP OKHOTSK.
to be in the sea, just as much as ourselves ; while, from their irregukrity, they
looked as if actually afloat ; and even of this miserable prospect one of the cha>
racteristio fogs of this port of the world begrudged us fully one-half."
' The tongue of knd, about three-quarters of a mile in length, and one-quarter
of a mile in width, is so little elevated above the level of the sea, that when the
southerly wind blows hard or continues long, the whole is almost sure to be in-
undated. The town lies about half a mile distant, situated on the left bank of
the Kuchtui.
A more dreary scene can scarcely be conceived. Not a tree, and hardly even
a green blade, is to be seen within miles of the town, and a stagnant marsh in
the midst of it must be, except when it is frozen, a nursery for all sorts of ma-
laria. The soil is on a par with the climate. Summer consists of three months
of damp and chilly weather, succeeded by nine months of dreary winter, as raw
as it is intense. The principal food of the inhabitants is fish, which is also the
staple food of the cattle and poultry. The Sea of Okhotsk yields as many as
fourteen varieties of the salmon alone, one of them, the ncrker, being the finest
thing of the kind ever tasted. On such fare, and in such a climate, no people
could be healthy. Scurvy, in particular, rages here every winter.
Okhotsk has declined since Nicolaicfski was established, the interest having
been much drawn to the latter place. In 1881 there were about 200 inhabit-
ants, existing by trading in furs and fish for the necessaries of life. There is
communication with Europe once a month, vi& Irkutsk.
Bad as the Harbour of Okhotsk is, it is believed to be the best in the Sea of
Okhotsk. The const between Okhotsk and Fort Oudskoi hns been surveyed
by the Russian Vice- Admirals Sarytscheff and Tominc, so we may suppose them
to be well represented on the charts.
For 30 miles south-westward of Okhotsk, or as far as Ulya, the coast is low,
but from thence to Port Aian, a distance of 210 miles, the shore is composed
of high cliffs, with mountainous peaks inland. Alcioma Bay, in lat. 56° 50' N.,
is sheltered by l^urki Peninsula, and good anchorage may be obtained hera in
3 to 5 fathoms, only open to winds between S.S.W. and S.E. by E.
FORT AIAN or Ayan, on the western coast of the Sea of Okhotsk, may be
recognized from the southward by Ca/e Vneshni or Outer Cape, a high barren
promontory with several craggy peaks upon it, at a mile eastward of its eastern
point of entrance, and in lat. 56° 25' 28" N., long. 138° 21' E. The coast in
the neighbourhood is high and bold, with whitish-colom'ed cliffs.
The inner part of the port is from one-quarter to half a mile wide, and
three-quarters of a mile deep, and affords good shelter for small vessels, in 2
to 5 fathoms, muddy bottom, only exposed to winds between South and S.E.
The outer part, with 8 to 12 fathoms over good holding ground, is exposed to
S.W. and southerly winds, which send in a heavy sea. On the West side of
the entrance is a reef of rocks, with 4 fathoms close-to, barely covered at high
water; the eastern shore is steep, and may be closely approached. The little
I i^.^
PORT AlAN— SIIANTAR ISLANDS.
747
rity, they
' the cha-
e-quarter
when the
to be in-
ft bank of
wdly even
marsh in
)rt9 of ma-
ec inontha
ter, as raw
is also the
s many as
g the finest
no people
est having
00 inhabit-
There is
the Sea of
n surveyed
ppose them
oast is low,
1 composed
66° 50' N.,
ned hera in
tsk, may be
ligh barren
f its eastern
be coast in
wide, and
essels, in 2
th and S.E.
exposed to
'^est side of
Ted at high
The little
settlement lies in a valley on the N.E. side of the bay. This locality is noted
for the quality of its sables.
The climate here is abominable, and fogs are uninterrupted ; the ice breaks
up in June, and snow does not always disappear before August. The port is
frozen over in November. It is high water, on full and change, at 12'' ; springs
rise about 10 ft.
Supplies are scarce in Fort Aian, and difficult to be obtained, beef only
being procurable, but fire-wood is plentiful. To the southward of the entrance
is a sandy buy, in which the soundings appear to bo regular, and where water
may be conveniently procured, or it may be obtained from a small stream on
the West side of the bay. Scurvy is common and fatal among the inhabitants,
but the wild rhubarb, growing close to the sea in many parts of the harbour,
is of great service as an anti-scorbutic*
From Port Aian the coast, bold and steep-to, trends 135 riles to the S.W.,
to the bead of Oudsky Bay. Norlh-eatt Harbour, in lat. 55° 10', is said to
afford anchorage.
JONAS or St, Jona Island, a collection of naked rocks, discovered by Capt.
Billings in the Russian corvette Slava Jiossii, lies off this portion of the coast.
It is about 2 miles in circumference, and 1,200 ft. high, lying in lat. 56° 23' N.,
long. 143° 16' E. Except off its West side, this islet is entirely surrounded by
detached rocks, against which the waves beat with great violence, and which
extend a considerable distance below the surface of the water. With the island
bearing North, distant 12 miles, Kruscnstcru had 12 fathoms water.
SHANTAB or Shantarski Islands, in the western part of the Sea of
Okhotsk, were surveyed by Lieut. Kosmin, who accompanied Capt. Wrangel in
his Siberian expeditions. From that survey it appears that the principal of
the group is Great Shanlar Island, which is 35 miles long, in an East and
West direction, and of an equal breadth from North to South. Notwithstand-
ing this extent of coast, it does not appear to afford any port, but the S.W.
point of the island projects to the S.W., so as to form an open bay to the east-
ward of it. Between this point and Cape Nikla and Dougangen, the nearest
-^"'^t of the continent, 14 rniles distant, are two islets, Barrier and Duck Islands,
surrounded by rocks and reefs ; one of these rocks is 30 ft. high.
The North point of Great Shantar is in lat. 65° 11' N., long. 137° 40' E. 5
its South point is in lat. 54° 36'. To the South of it are some smaller islands,
* Aynn was visited liy the allied squadron, and taken poHewion of on July 10th, 1865.
Mr. J. M. Tronson, who waa on board H.M.S. Barraeouta, gives a description of the place,,
and their visit (pp. 123 - 132). Ho says, " As we entered the port we could not but admira
the beautiful scenery of this calm retreat, notwithstanding our warlike mission. On each
side of the port a prominont headland projects. Ayan was formerly a post of tho Hussian-
American Company, but owing to tho competition of the numerous whalers, who all traded
with the natives, it had givon up all busineu on the coast before tho tr»nsfer of their in-
terest to the United States.
!
■I':
i i
■
I ■;
Ml
m
SAGHALIN ISLAND.
and to the East of it nrc two islands, one in lat. 55" 5', long. 138° 22', called
Proko/ief, the other, in lat. 54° 43', long. 138° 12', KoasBoff. At 6 miles West
of Great Shantar Island is Feklistojf hland, 20 miles in extent, from N.E. to
S.W., its breadth being about one-half. This island has also no port or shelter,
and off its West side lies Sugarloaf hland.
Southward of Shantar Islands the coast is indented by several deep inlets.
Oudaky Bay, westward of the islands, has a convenient depth for anchorage,
but appears to be very exposed. At its head is the mouth of the River Ouda,
In Int. 54° 41' N., long. 134° 27' E., about 20 miles up which is Fort Ouda or
Oudskoi, a considerable establishment, determined by Lieut. Kosmin, in 1829-
1830, to be in Int. 54° 29', long. 134° 68'.
From the mouth of the River Ouda the coast, for an extent of 50 miles, runs
nearly in an East direction to a point behind which is a small bay named the
Day of Swans. The western point of this bay is Cape Dotigandsha, and east-
ward of this, to the mouth of the River Tugur, the coast runs South, and forms,
with a promontory lying to the eastward named Cape Linekinskoy, the Day of
Tugursk, the opening of which is about 1 2 miles wide, and the depth about 35
miles. The Hiver Ttigur falls into the head of the bay in lat. 53° 45'. Tugursk
Bay and Iliver were partially examined, in 1806, by an ofRcer of the Kussiun
Navy, BorissofT.
Eastward of Tugursk Bay is another extensive bay named Oulbanski; there
is reported to be anchorage in Akademie Gulf, at its head, and also in Con-
stanline Day on its West shore. Separated from the East side of this boy by
a peninsula is St. Nicholas or Usalghin Day, of which little is known. Wc
have no description of the coast eastward of this, to the northern entrance of
the Gulf of Amur.
SAGHALIN ISLAND.
The name applied to this great island is derived from the Mnntehus, who
thus call it after their river, Saglialin Ula, the Amur, which falls into the sea
opposite the N.W. coast of this island. Besides the term Saghalin, geographers
have given it the names of Oku-Jcsso, Krafto or Karafta, Tschoka, and Sandan.
It is called Tarakai by the natives, and Kara/uto by the Japanese. It now
belongs to the Russians, the Japanese having ceded their portion of the island,
in 1875, in exchange for the Russian islands of the Kurile Archipelago.
The natives are comparatively very few in number ; scarcely any signs
whatever were seen on all the eastern side by Capt. Krusenstern, who closely
examined this coast, and from the second volume of whose voyage some of
the subsequent particulars arc taken. They were principally found in the ser-
vice of the Japanese in Aniwa Bay. They are colled Ainos, as are the natives
of the adjacent Island of Yezo, and are certainly the same people that, since
Spanberjs's time, have been called Hairy Kuriles. The Ainos are rather below
(il
SAGHALIN ISLAND.
740
22', called
miles West
m N.E. to
t or shelter,
Icep inlets,
anchorage,
'iiver Ottda,
>rt Ouda or
in, in 1829-
) miles, runs
named the
a, and cast-
I, and forms,
, the Bay of
th about 35
5'. Tugursk
the Bussiun
inski; there
ilso in Con-
this bay by
nown. Wc
cntiance of
ntchus, who
into the sea
geographers
and Sandan.
ise. It now
sf the island,
)clago.
ly any signs
who closely
'Hge some of
id in the ser-
■e the natives
le that, since
rather bolow
tlie middle stature ; of a dark, nearly black, complexion, with a thick bushy
beard, and black, rough, straight hair ; except in the beard, they resemble the
Kamchadalcs. The women are ugly, but modest in the highest degree. Their
oharocteristio quality is goodness of heart, as is expressed in their countenance.
Their dress consists chiefly of the skins of seals and dogs, of which latter they
kotj,) great abundance. They appeared to live in the most happy way in their
domestic life. Capt. Krusenstera is inclined to doubt the ancient accounts of
its inhabitants.
The total population is estimated to number about 14,000. The southern
part of the island is inhabited by A'l'nos, about 2,000 in number, and the
northern part by Ghiliaks (Tartars), the latter about 3,000 in number, good
seamen and hunters. The Russians have about 3,000 troops here, mostly em-
ployed to guard the convicts working the coal mines. The principal occupation
of the natives is hunting and fishing, the chief articles of exports being fiirs
and fish.*
The Island of Saghalin extends in a North ond South direction about 512
miles ; its breadth, in general, does not exceed 70 miles ; but near its central
part it is nearly 100 miles in width. At its southern end it gradually tapers
off to two sharp points, enclosing a large bay between them, named by the
Dutch Aniwa Bay. The northern part, as well as the southern, terminates
in a bay, which Capt. Krusensteru called North Bay. There is no port in the
island which can bo termed a safe place of refuge.
The island is mountainous, and to the North of lat. 50° the range forms in
rocky peaks ; to the southward of this the hills slope gradually to the coast.
Two ranges extend respectively N.W. and N.E. from its southern extremes,
meeting in Bernizet Peak in lat. AT 33' N. Mount Tiara, 4,000 ft. high,
stands out prominently on the East side of the island, in about lat. 50° 6'.
There are no volcanos in Saghalin. The chief rivers are the Tymy, i nd the
Poronai or Ty, only navigable by boats ; the latter debouches into the head of
Patience Bay, and the former on the East coast, in lat. 5 1° 55' N. M. Foliakof,
who explored the island in 1881-2, states that the Tym is navigable for vessels
of 1 6 ft. draught, for a distance of about 3 miles.
The western coast is steep and cliffy, the eastern is low and sandy. The
middle district of the island is flat and swampy, but to the North it is hilly
and fertile. It is well wooded throughout with firs of various sorts, birch,
elm, &c., and large quantities of timber are exported to Japan for building
purposes. The climate is cold and damp, so that little or no agriculture can
be carried on.
There is coal in several parts of this island, and on its West side, around
• An intorcsling account of S.ighalin will bo found in the " Journal of tho Royal Geo-
graphical Society," 1872, pp. 373 — 388, being a Paper by Colonel Vcniukof, tranalatod
from tho Russian '>y Ciipt. Spalding. See, also, "Sagbilin from a Jitpaucao Bourco," in
tho "Geographical Mngiizinc," August, 1878, pp. 20')— 208.
wmmmmm
f
JLi
I
1
I
i
f
i
1
i
i
1
1
1
!
msBs^m
f
i I
750
SAGHALIN ISLAND.
Jonquiire Bay ond Dui, it rises to tho surface, and is c * fair quality. Gold,
copper, and iron also exist here. Whales arc found on tho East imd South
OOMts, salmon and herrings abound, and in the deep bay of Aniwn on tho
South, into which two large streams fall, tho Japanese established nn exten-
sive salmon fishery. The largest fishing station is at the head of Patience liny.
Water u abundant at all parts, and drift-wood for fuel is found in large quan-
tities along the western coast.
CAPE ELIZABETH, the North point of the island, is in lat. 64° 24' 30" N.,
long. 142° 47' E., and is a high mass of rock, forming the extremity of n con-
tinuous chain of mountains. It is very remarkable from a number of high
pointed hills, or rather naked rocks, upon which neither tree nor verdure is
visible. It descends gradually towards the sea, and at the brink of the ])rcci-
pice is a pinnacle or small peak. Seen from the West, it is exceedingly like
Capo Lopatka, except that it is higher.
Cape Mary, 18 miles W.S.W. from Cape Elizabeth, is in Int. 54° 17' 30",
long. 142° 17' 45" E. ; it is lower than Cape Elizabeth, and consists of a chnin
of hills all nearly of the same elevation. It slopes gently down to the sea, and
terminates in a steep precipice, from whence a dangerous reef runs to the N.E.
It is high water here, on full and change, at 2** ; the rise is about 5 ft.
Korth Bay fSivernaia GubaJ, which lies between these two capes, is very
open, but appeared to be safe, especially in summer, when Nortli winds are
rare. At I ^ mile off shore the depth is 9 fathoms, sand, gradually decreasing
to 3 fathoms, over excellent anchorage ground. There is a village nt the licad.
Sailing vessels should not approach Capes Elizabeth and Mnry within 20
miles, to avoid the current ; the winds are generally light and variable in-
shore. By standing over to the Tartary coast the current is weaker, and the
depth of water moderate, affording safe anchorage in case of fog or calm.
Nadiejeda Bay, or Nadethda Bay, about 10 miles to the S.E. of Cape Mary,
on the West coast, is rnther open, and consequently not safe for anchorage, as the
ground everywhere is rocky. It lies in lat. 54° 10' 15" N., long. 142° 27'34'E.
A plentiful supply of wood and water may easily be procured here. The
southern point of the bay was named Cape Horner, after Dr. Horner, tho
naturalist on board Krusenstem's ship the Nadiejeda. Obman Bay, 44 miles
southward of Cape Mary, has barely sufficient water in its entrance for boats.
The N.W. const of Snghnlin is infinitely preferable to the S.W. ; between
the mountains, which are entirely overgrown with the thickest forests, aro
valleys which appear very capable of cultivation. The shores are broken, and
nro almost everywhere of a yellow colour, which gives the coast the appearance
of being hemmed in by an artificial wall. The confines of the high and low
lands are precisely in the same parallel as on the opposite side ; and beyond
the limits, to the S.S.W., as far as the eye could reach, nothing could be seea
but the low sandy shore, with here and there a few insulated but picturesque
sand-hills.
CAPE LOWENSTERN.
751
Cape Oolovatoheff, in lat. 53" 25' N., long. 141° 55' E., forms with Cape
Bombrcg, on the coast of Tartniy, the northern entrance into the Qulf of
Amur.
As we shall hereafter allude to the Amur River and Qulf, we return again to
the North point, and proceed to describe the eastern coast of the island.
CAFE LOWENSTERN, in lat. 54° 3' 15" N., long. 14^' 15' E., was named
after Kruscnstcrn's third lieutenant. The appearance of the coast between this
cnpc and Capo Elizabeth is very dreary : no traces of vegetation are apparent,
and the M'holc coast is ironbound, consisting of one mass of black granite rock,
with here and there a white spot ; the depth at 3 miles off shore was 30 fathoms,
rocky bottom. In front of Cape Luwenstcrn there is a large rock. South-
ward of it the shore is everywhere steep, and in several places consists of rocks
of a chalk-like appearance.
Cape Elokatcheff is stated to be in lat. 53° 46' N., long. 143° 7' £., and near
it appeared to be the mouth of a considerable river, bs the land appeared to bo
unconnected. Cape Wurst, or J''irsl, is in lat. 53°, long. 143° 30'. A long
way inland there arc several considerable high lands, the coast being, as far as
the eye can reach, composed of flat sand. Shoal Point, or Cape Otmeloi, in
lat. 52° 34', long. 143° 27', may easily be known by a hill of tolerable height,
which on this flat coast almost merits the name of a mountain, and forms a
very remarkable object. At this point the coast recedes to the westward, and
here a damjerous shoal lies. It is in lat. 52° 30' N., and stretches probably for
some miles North and South at a distance of 10 miles from the shore. This is
the on^y one mot with off the const, and has 4^ to 8 fathoms on its outer edge.
DoiohS Point, in lat. 51° 53' N., is remarkable for a round hill. To the
northward of it is a chain of five hills, of a billowy form, having the appearance
of islands in this extended plain. The whole coast here, like that to the south-
ward, is scarcely raised above the water'3 edge. Near here the River Tymy
debouches.
Cape Delisle, named after the astronomer Delisle dc la Croyere, is in lat.
51° 0' 30", long. 143° 43', and forms the boundary of the mountainous part of
Saghalin, for to the northward of it there is neither high laud nor a single
mountain, the shore everywhere consisting of sand, of a most dangerous uni>
formity.
Cape Batmanoff, in lat. 60° 48' N., long. 143' 55' E., terminates in a flat
neck of land, stretching a considerable distance into the sea. The coast here-
abouts is invariably craggy, and of a yellow colour. Cape liimnik is in lut.
50° 12' 80", long. 144° 5' E., and at the back of it, some miles inland, is Mount
Tiara, so named by Krusenstem from its form, a flat hill, 4,000 ft. high, re-
markable for having three points on its summit. It is in lat. 50° 3' N., long.
143° 35' E. From its parallel the coast trends to S.S.E.
Cape Bellingshansen is in lat. 49° 35' N., long. 144° 25' 45" E., and at 7
miles S.S.W. of it is a point which was thought to offer a good harboui'. The
%\:
11 -
if
;
• I
! I
[
III
I
702
SAGUALIN ISLAND.
■bore is vcrj- abrupt, and entirely white. Flat Bay, in lat. 49° 5', is surrounded
on all sides by very low country. It is a deep opening, in which even from the
mast-head no land could bo descried.
Cape Patience, the most prominent and the easternmost capo of Saghalin,
is in lat. 48° 52' N., long. 144° 40' 15' E., and is a very low promontory,
formed by a double hill, tcrminnting abruptly. From this a flat tongue of lund
projects some distance to the South. The flat hill near Flat Buy is the first
high land in that direction. By this hill Cnpe Patience, which, owing to its
little elevation, is not easily perceived, may soon bo recognised. The cape is
surrounded by a rocky shoal, extending a considerable distance off shore.
Bobben Island, or Tuileni, surrounded by a very dangerous reef, lies off
Cope Patience. Capt. Krusenstern saw and examined the extent of this reef.
The N.E. front he places in lat 48° 36', long. 144° 83', and that part which
may be considered as the S.W, extremity is in lat. 48° 28', long. 144° 10' F.,
so that its whole circumference is about 35 miles. The middle of Bobben
Island is in \a.*. 48° 32' 15", long. 144° 23', about S.W. \ S., 22 miles from
Cnpe Patience. The channel between the cape and the reef was not examined.
PATIENCE BAT is extensive, and limited to the East by the cape of tho
same name, and to the West by Cape Soimonoff. The ship Cuslricom, under
the Dutch commander Do Vries, anchored here in 1643, and gave tho names
to the bay, &e. Its North const is craggy and mountainous, and far inland arc
lofty mountains.
In the N.W. comer of the bay is the mouth of a tolerably large river, named
the Ny or Neva; its entrance, in lat. 49° 14' 40", long. 143° 10', is about half
a mile wide. Off its mouth the water wos fresher, and branches of trees were
among the clayey soundings. Near its entrance is Tichmenev, a Russian post,
A smoUer river debouches to the southward.
Cape Notetn, Saimanov, or Soimonoff, in lat. 48° 53' 20', long. 143° 2', is
the western limit of Patience Bay ; it is a high promontory, projecting very
much to the eastward. Cape DalrympU, named after the English hydro*
grapher, is in lat. 48° 21' N., long. 142° 44'. It is formed by a high mountain,
lying close upon the beach in a North and South direction, and is the more
easily known from being altogether isolated. Hence the coast trends S.S.W.,
consisting of lofty mountains, divided by deep valleys, the shore being steep
and rocky. The whole country is more agreeable in prospect than farther
South. Cape Muloffsky, a projecting point of land, is in lat. 47° 57' 45 ', long.
142° 34'. Bernizet Peak of La Porouse is probably the same as Mount Spanberg
of the Dutch. It is a lofty, rounded mountain, in lat. 47° 33', long. 142° 20',
and is also known as Mount Lopatinsky.
Cape Seniavine is a high point of land, in lat. 47° 16' 30", long. 142° 59' 30'.
To the northward of it the coast is low, and falls suddenly off to the westward ;
to the southward are lofty mountains.
MorlovinoT Bay lies to the southward of this, and is limited to the East by
ANIWA BAY— CAPE NOTOllO.
753
rounclcd
rom the
laghalin,
montory,
e of luud
the fiiHt
[ig to its
} cape ia
ore.
f, lies off
this reef.
U't which
1° 10' E.,
f Robbcn
iiiles from
examined,
ipc of tlio
•om, under
the names
inland arc
ver, named
nbout half
■ trees were
ussian post.
143" 2', is
ecting very
;li8h hydro-
h moimtnin,
is the more
inds S.S.W.,
being steep
than farther
)7' 45', long.
ml Spanherg
ag. 142= 20',
142° 59' 30".
tie westward ;
,0 the East bjr
Cape Tonln. Plenty of water was found in it in many places, and abundance
of firewood. Cape Tonin, in lat. 4G° 50', long. 143° 27' 30", is of moderate
height, and entirely overgrown with fir trees. A chain of rocks strctohcs to
the northward from it.
Cape Lowenorn, or Leveion, in lat. 46*^ 23' 10", long. 143° 38', is a steep
projecting rock, easily to be distinguished from the rest of this coast by itis
yellow colour. North of it the coast assumes a more westerly direction, and
consists of a chain of largo lofty mountains.
CAFE SIRETOKO, or Aniwa, the S.K. projection of Snghalin, is in every
respect a remarkable promontory, the more so from a chain of high mountains
near it, stretching away to the northward, between which and tho capo is a
hollow that gives it the appearance of a saddle. Tlic headland itself is a steep,
abrupt mass of rocks, perfectly barren, and having a deep inlet at its point.
The position was very carefully observed by Captain Krusenstern ; it is in lat.
46° 2' 20' N., long. 143° 25' E.
ANIWA BAY, occupying tho southern end of Saghalin, is an extensive
bight, about 45 miles deep, its entrance being GO miles wide between Capo
Siretoko and Cape Notoro to the East. From Capo Aniwa the coast runs first
in a northerly direction, and then inclines to the West to a headland, which
projects also to the West, and from this, as far as the head of the bay, it runs
North and South. In this part of tho coast is a rock cilled tho Pyramid on
tho charts. The West side of tho bay is throughout very mountainous. A flat
and rather projecting mountain, in tho direction of the coast, which trends
S.S.W., is alone distinguished for its greater height.
Aniwa Bay is open to the southward, but tho holding ground is good; along
its West shore, in depths less than 10 fathoms, the bottom is soft mud. In
winter broken ice is met with, but only at a short distance from the coast.
Water is inferior, and difficult to procure ; firo-wood can be obtaim d, but no
provisions, except fish, which is abundant.
CAPE NOTOBO, Crillon, or Krilon, the S.W. limit of Aniwa Bay, and tho
South extremity of Saghalin, from a distance of 10 or 12 miles makes like an
island. On its summit, 124 ft. high, is a small shrine, and 4 miles North of the
cape is a conspicuous hill. Quoin Hill, which rises abruptly from the shore to
nn elevation of 1,025 ft. A range of hills, varying from 800 to 1,200 ft. in
height, amongst which is one of sugar-loaf form, stretches along the coast to
the N.E. of Quoin Hill. Ilecfs of straggling rocks border the cape at a dis-
tance of 2 to 3 cables, and off its West sido some of them extend a consider-
able distonce. On the latter side, and 3 miles from the cape, near a Japanese
fishing-station, is an extensive patch of dangerous rocks, covered at high
water, lying about a mile off shore. A heavy tide-rnco is often met with off
the cape.
The LIGHTHOUSE on Cape Notoro, established in 1883, is 30 ft. high, and
North Pacific. 5 p
784
SAOHALIN ISLAND.
exhibits t^Jixtd light, elevated 135 ft., and visible 13 miles. The light is bright
over the bay and seaward between N.E. } E. and S.E., southerly ; rid thence,
over Kamen Opasnosti or Dangerous Bock, to S.E. by S. } S. ; and bright
thence, southward and westward, to N.W. ^ N. Its position is lat. 46° 64' N,,
long. 142° 2' E.
Fog Signals. — Near the lighthouse a Bell and Gun are established for Fog
Signals,
Kamen Opauoiti, named Dangerout Rock by La P^rouse, Similes S.E. ^ S.
from Cape Notoro, is about 20 ft. high, and 60 ft. in diameter, frequented by
sea-lions. It should not be approached nearer than a mile, as dangerous rocky
ledges extend around it A less depth than 20 fitthoms, when in its vicinity,
indicates close proximity.
Tsiiia or Tishia Rook, 72 ft. high, conspicuously marks the position of the
point of the some name, at 8^ miles N.E. by N. of the summit of Cape Notoro.
From the rock the coast trends to the N.N.E. towards the head of Aniwa Bay ;
at 2 miles from it is a reef, three-quarters of a mile o£f shore. AncV ige mny
bo taken in 8 or 12 fathoms anywhere along the coast between Ci. Notoro
and Tsisia Bock. Qood shelter may bo obtained here, and also farther to the
northward in the bight of the bay, from the prevalent autumnal ond winter
gales. Water was obtained by H.M.S. Aolteon at a small stream 2 miles
northward of the cape.
At its head Aniwa Bay forms a bay named Losotei, Lachi/orelUn, or Salmon
Rag, on the shore of which are some settlements. It is entirely exposed to the
South, which oi'e here said to be the prevailing winds, and consequently the
road is by no means safe. The great surf is also an obstacle to landing. The
Japanese had here also a large establishment, and Krusenstcrn's anchorage off
it was in lat. 46° 41' 15", long. 142° 32'. The Japanese factory, at the mouth
of the small river, bore N. 49° W., 2 J miles.
On the East side of this bay is Kuahankotan, a settlement composed of a few
wooden houses and wretched huts, close to which the Shikawa or Salmon Biver
flows into the bay. The point southward of Kushankotan runs out shoal, and
should not bo approached within 2 miles. Kartakovak, about 3 miles south,
ward of Kushankotan, is a military settlement, with some Japanese villages
southward of it. The flagstaff is conspicuous. There is anchorage off Kushan>
kotan, in 6 fathoms, sand and mud, about 1 mile from the beach, with the
village bearing E. by S. ^ S. ; a shoal is said to lie S.S.W. of this anchorage.
Also off Karsakovsk there is anchorage in 5 or 6 fathoms, at about a mile from
the shore, the settlement bearing East. Tamary Aniwa is apparently the name
given by the Dutch to the projecting point on the East side of this bay.
Tobootchi Bay, on the East side of Aniwa Bay, in lat. 46° 29' N., is a
shallow basin with 3j^ fathoms in its deepest part. The entrance is be-
tween sand-banks extending from the shore, nnd has only 9 ft. on the bar;
two beacons in line on Klykoff Point, the southern point, E.N.E., lead in. On
h-*^_
LA PEllOUSE STRAIT.
m
ht !■ bright
rtd thcncp,
and bright
48° 64' N.,
led for Fog;
es S.E. i S.
[juented by
srouo rocky
to vicinity,
tion of the
ipe Notoro.
iniwa Bay ;
igo mny
Notoro
thcr to the
nnd winter
im 2 miles
or Salmon
oscd to the
[uently the
ding. The
chorage off
the mouth
ed of a few
Imon Bivcr
; shoal, and
tiles south,
ise villages
iff Kushan<
, with the
anchorage.
1 mile from
y the name
bay.
y N., is a
ace ic be-
>n the bar;
ad in. On
the soutiicm shore of this bay are the Huasiaa scttlemcnU of Douuit and
Mouravieff.
LA PEROUSE STRAIT.
This strait is formed between Capo Notoro, the southern end of Snghalin,
and Capo Soya, the North extreme of Yezo, about 23 miles apart. The gcnoriil
soundings in it are 35 to 40 fathoms and upwards, decreasing to 25 and 2U fa-
thoms as the shores are ncared ; but as these latter depths will be found in the
middle of the strait near Dangerous Rook and in other places, the load in thick
weather cannot always be trusted to ensure safety.
There are heavy overfalls, giving the appearance of a reef, between Cape
Notoro and Dangerous Rock, but deep water was found in passing through.
Neither this capo nor Cape Nossyab should bo closed by a sailing vessel with-
out a commanding breeze, on account of the tide-raco off them.
Reftmsiri Island, lying off the South sido of the western entrance to La
P6rousc Strait, is in shape an acute-angled triangle, 1 1 miles long North nnd
South, nnd Z\ miles wide at the base which is iU North end, where there is a
shalU .V bay, with rather a populous village. The summit of a range of hills,
the highest part of which is nearly in the centre of the island, attains an eleva-
tion f 1,300 ft., but it is so close to Pic do Langle on Risiri as to appear to the
eye much lower. The island is cultivated, but only a few fowls, fish, and water
can be obtained.
The shores of this island appear to be clear of outlying dangers, except tho
North end, where foul ground appears to extend 8 or miles northward, a
dangerous rock, with only 8 ft. water over it, lying at the extremity. Nearly
2 miles North of the N.E. point of the island, and about East 2^ miles from
Boma$iri, an islet 1 mile northward of the N.W. point of the island, is a dan-
gerous rock, discovered by H.M.S. Billern,in 1855, but it nearly always breaks.
Barriok Rock, a doubtful danger, is said to lie about 7 miles westward of the
islond, in lat. 45° 93', long. 140° 41'.
Bisiri Island is aVout 6 miles S.E. of Refunsiri, and the passage between
them, and also that between Risiri and Yezo, are both quite clear of all known
danger, and may safely be taken. This island, from ite great height, becomest
for vessels approaching from the southward, a conspicuous mark for the West
entrance of La PSrouse Strait. It is nearly circular in shape, with a generally
low shore rising abruptly from the sea. No dangers of any importance aro
known in its vicinity ; a few detached rocks exist, but they lie close inshore.
It was first seen by La Ferouse, who took it for a mountain on the mainland
of Yezo, and named it Pic de Langle. Its summit attains on elevation of 5,900
feet, and may be seen in clear weather from a distance of 70 or 80 miles. It
is generally capped with snow, and often peers out most usefully above the
harassing fogs. According to Capt. Krusenstern's observations, it is in lat.
^%?
I
t i
!|
7S&
LA PEROUSE STRAIT.
45<» 11' N., long. 141° 12' 15" E., and it is probably the mountain which the
Datch called Blyde Berg.
A bluff point, called Nallo Head, jutting out on the N.E. side of thu island,
forms a small bay, which affords ehelter froni S.E., round by West, to North.
The holding ground is good ; the best anchorage is in the N.W. part of the
bay, in 6 to 7 fathoms. There is a small village on the West side. The tide
riKS about 4 ft. at springs, and the current in the vicinity of these islands sets
to the N.E., from 1 to 1^ knot an hour.
Totomosiri, or Monneron Island, lying N.W. J W., 40 miles from Capo
Notoro, is 1,400 ft. high, without the volcanic appearance of Refunsiri or of
Risiri. There are three rocks awash lying about a mile off its eastern shore,
and mother about a mile off its N.E. point. There is a spring on Totomosiri,
from which whalers are in the habit of watering, but with great difficulty and
labour.
CAFE NOSSTAB, the N.W. point of Yezo Island, was named Romamoff
by Krusenstern, and is in lat. 45° 27' 30" N., long. HI" 36' E. It is the
abrupt but rather sloping termination of a remarkable tabic land, and appears
like an island at a distance. Extending a mile northward from the cape is a
flat, narrow tongue of land, only a few feet above the sea, having upon it a few
huts and a fishing station. From the extreme point of this low land a shoal,
rocky spit, partly covered with weed, extends N.N.W. upwards of a mile, with
but little water over it in places, and at its extremity a depth of 2^ fathoms,
which rapidly deepens to 6 and 7 fathoms.
At 6 or 7 miles southward of Cape Nossyab there is anchorage in 12 fathoms
in u small bay, with the cape bearing N.N.E., and the summit of Risiri
S.W. by W. J W. The shore here is low and swampy.
CAPE SOT A, the North extreme of Yezo, 14 miles E.N.E. of Cape Nossyab,
may easily be recognized, sometimes even in a fog, by a remarkable white rock
lying off it to the westward, and which appears to be surrounded with broken
groimd. Reefs extend seme distance off the cape, and a reef awash is reported
to lie 7 or 8 miles E.S.E. of it.
Bomanzov Bay, between Capes Nossyab and Soya, is an extensive bay, in
which the land, covered with rank verdure, slopes towards the sea margin.
Several huts are distributed along the shores of the bay ; and about 5 miles
S.W. from Cape Soya is a large Japanese village or fishing station. Reefs ex-
tend along the East and South shores of the bay, so that a vessel intending to
take shelter here should be careful to keep 3 or 4 miles off shore, where there
is bad anchorage in 17 or 18 fathoms. The Nadiijeda, Capt. Krusenstern's
ship, anchored in this bay, at the entrance of a small bay in its southern part,
«t 2 miles from the nearest shore, in 9 fathoms, an excellent bottom of fine
sand and mud.
The Island of Yezo will be described hereafter.
H.M.S. Actaon, in Se2'ti;i..l'er, 1859, while engaged in surveying the islands
THE GULP OF TARTARY.
757
un which the
i of thu island,
rest, to North.
V. part of the
ide. The tide
;8e islands sets
les from Cape
lefunsiri or of
eastern shore,
on Totomosiri,
t difficulty and
led Romanzoff
E. It is the
d, and appears
the cape is a
g upon it a few
' land a shoal,
of a mile, with
of 2j^ fathoms,
in 12 fathoms
limit of Risiri
Cape Nossyab,
able white rock
d with broken
ash is reported
icnsive bay, in
c sea margin.
about 5 miles
on. Reefs ex-
el intending to
e, where there
Krusenstern's
southern part,
bottom of fine
,-i:
ng the islands
Bisiri and Refunsiri, was blown by a W.S.W. gale through the Strait of Ln
PSrouse, when the atmosphere was so laden with spray as to render it impossi-
ble to fix the position of the ship accurately.
Vessels bound through the strait from the east ird with an adverse wind,
would do well to stand across and work to windward in Aniwa Bay, where they
would have smooth water, no current, and perhaps find an eddy in their favour.
In and about La Perouse Strait the tides and currents are very irregular, and
they are probably much influenced by prevailing winds. They are felt mostly
inshore, particularly round Capes Notoro an 1 Nossyab, where at times they be-
come perfect races. It is high Avater near these capes, on full and change, be-
tween lO** and IP, and the rise is about 6 ft. 7; he flood sets to the East.
THE GULP OF TARTARY.
The entrance of the Gulf of Tartary, which insulates Snghalln, is 180 miles
wide between Cape Notoro and Cape Disappointment on the Tartary coast.
From Capo Disappointment, in lat. Ab° 48' N., the coast of Tortary or Man-
churia trends to the N.E., and forms, with the West coast of Saghalin Island,
which trends irregularly to the northward for 370 miles, the long channel
named the Gulf of Tartary, which communicates with the Gulf of Amur to the
northward by Tartary Strait. This strait may be considered to begin on the
parallel of about 51° N. ; on the parallel of Castries Bay the coasts converge
rapidly ; and abreast Cape Catherine, in SI** .'57' N., they are only 7 miles apart ;
17 miles farther North, between Capes Lazaref and Fogobi, they approach to
within 3^ miles ; nnd this is the gorge of the strait, and the entrance into the
Gulf of Amur.
The ports most frequented in the gulf are Barracouta Harbour and Castries
Bay on its western coast, and Dui, Jonqui^re Bay, and Kosounai on its eastern.
The anchorage alung the eastern coast is safe during the summer months, when
easterly winds prevail, aid there is generally fine weather ; but a vessel must
be prepared to weigh, should the wind veer to the West.*
The coast on both sides of the gulf is high, and there ore no striking land-
marks. The eastern shore is thickly wooded, and appears to be thinly in-
inhabited, the natives living chiefly on fish. No dangers have been observed,
and the soundings decrease gradually towards the shores.
The navigation of the gulf would be simple enough, but the fogs render it
dangerous, requiring the greatest caution to be observed. It has been remarked
by former voyagers, and this was confirmed by H.M. ships in 1855-6, that on
• Tho gulf was visjlod by H.M.S. Dwarf in 1873, nnd C»pt. B. W. Bax has given an
intircBting account of tfao chief potts in bis book, tnlitloi " The Ciuiaa of tho Dwarf in
tho Eitstern Seas," published ia 1876.
ZPS
758
THE GULF OF TAETARY.
nearing the land in these seas a vessel will frequently suddenly emerge from
the fog or find it lift. The inner bays arc rarely covered by fogs. The flood
tide sets to the northward, and the rise is from 5 to 7 ft.
Wood and water can be procured in abundance and with facility, on all parts
of the coast of the gulf, and cool, of fair quality, in any quantity, at Dui, close
southward of Jonqui^re Bay. Fish and wild fowl are plentiful. Very fine cod-
fish have been caught in soundings of from 73 to 30 fathoms.
Fogs. — From March till August fogs are almost continuous in the gulf, with
scarcely any clear interval for more than a day or two at a time ; they are most
prevalent and dense in June, and are immediately dispersed in N.W., West,
and S.W. winds ; the mercury is little affected by them. The prevalent winds
are described at the end of this work.
In August, September, and part of October, fair clear weather comes in
agreeable contrast, although in the latter month snow occasion;, lly fulls. The
change of weather about the middle of October is sudden, winter generally
usurping the v/armth of summer in a day, and setting in with all its vigour ;
at this period ice begins to form in Tcrtary Strait, and the season for sailing
vessels to be in the gulf on ordinary ocorsions must be considered as having
terminated. In winter, from Castries Bay to Dui, tuu siiuit is closed by ice
as far as the eye can roach. It begins to disappear early in April.
We now proceed to describe the shores of the gulf, commencing with the
West coast of Saghalin, and then the opposite coast of Tartary from Cape
Disappointment northward.
From Cape Notoro (p. 753) the West coast of Saghalin trends northward
for 40 miles to Nyassi Point, and is ii am 100 to 150 ft. in height. At 6 or 7
miles northward of Cape Notoro is a stream, an excellent watering place, with
anchorage off it in 9 to 10 fathoms, sand. North wai'd of Nyassi Point is
Nevelskoi Bay, consisting of numero'js small bights, with passages leading to
them between the reefs fronting *\e shore, of which Maucka Cove is the prin-
cipal. For the following and other information we are indebted to Captain
Anderson, S.S. Appin, 1880.
Maucka Cove, or Endtmyomo, in lat. 47° 3' N., is about 6 cables long East
and West by 3 cables wide, and is the head-quarters of a fishing company,
employing about 700 coolies. There is a small guard of llussian soldiers here.
The average depth in the cove is 4 to 5 fathoms, with room to moor a vessel
250 ft. long. Fine timber grows in the neighbouring valleys, and spars of any
size may be obtained. Potatoes and other vegetables are grown, and fresh
water can be procured from a stream. Coal has been found about a mile in*
land. Fish and game are plentiful.
To enter the cove, bring two poles in line S.E. ^ S., and steer for them,
letting go the first anchor when about half a cable within the reefs. Mount
Bernizet, or Lopatinsky, is an excellent landmark, rising in a sharp peak.
In the vicinity of Maucka, and to the southward, are several trading stations,
SAGHALIN ISLAND— SERTUNAI.
7fi9
emerge from
I. The flood
y, on nil parts
at Dui, close
iTery fine cod-
the gulf, with
they are most
N.W., West,
oyalent winds
ther comes in
ly fulls. The
iter generally
ill its vigour;
on for sailing
red as having
elosed by ice
•il.
acing with the
iry from Cape
nds northward
ht. At 6 or 7
ing place, with
yassi Point is
iges leading to
3ve is the prin-
ted to Captain
ables long East
hing company,
n soldiers here,
moor a vessel
ind spars of any
own, and fresh
ibout a mile in-
[ steer for them,
> reefs. Mount
harp peak,
trading stations*
with anchorage off each, more or less exposed to the northward. That off Pirols
is the next best to Maucka Cove.
Foro Tomari is a similar bight, 5 miles northward of Maucka Cove, with a
narrow entrance between the reefs. Notoro Point, 10 miles farther northward,
is triangular in shape, and conspicuous. Toubout or Notosama Bay, in lat.
47° 25y, is sheltered by reefs above water, and is about 6 cables in diameter,
with 4 to 6 fathoms water over it, affording shelter for one or two small vessels.
For 10 miles northward of this the coast consists of ciny cliffs.
EOBOimai. — Between lat. 47° 62' and 48° 2' the coast forms an open boy,
with low and sandy shores, affording a convenient landing when the sea is not
rough. Saghalin is here only 5 miles wide. At the head of this buy is
Kosounai, a Russian settlement of large white log houses, on the North side of
a small river. There are three pyramid beacons here, 40 ft. high. Game, fish,
and fire-wood are plentiful, and 3 miles northward there are large quantities
of coal.
At 30 miles North of Kosounai is Raitiiska River, with 4 ft. water on the
bar, leading to a lake. Northward of this, between lat. 48° 35' and 48° 60',
the coast is a steep bluff 800 ft. high, backed by high peaks. Sloukambiss
Point, in lat. 48" 43', is easily recognised by a white crescent-shaped patch on
the S.W. side of a hill inland. Tzilmetiev Bay, northward of this, is about 3
miles wide, but is a very insecure anchorage.
Orokes Bay, or Tany Kotan, the Bale d'Estaing of La P6rouse, in lat.
48° 56' N., aflbrds good anchorage in S.W. gales, but is open to winds between
W.S.W. and North. There is a depth of 6 fathoms at the entrance, decreasing
gradually to its head. Cape Oroj'i, or Baranov, in lat. 49° 23', rises to n
height of about 200 ft., and is backed by a fine grassy slope. About 7 miles
northward of this is Nyassi River, with 6 to 7 ft. on the bar, and a village on
its South side. Hereabout the bottom is rocky, and the depth irregular.
Sertunai, or Sokkota, is a small Russian post, 2^ miles northward of Nyassi
River, in the neighbourhood of which are some coal mines. The anchorage
here is bad. This locality was visited by Lloyd's agent at Alexnndrovski in
Castries Bay, in 1867. He says: — The coal mines at Najassee are in about
lat. 49° 35' to 49° 40'. I found that vessels can lie and load there, without
particular danger, in an open roadstead, the loading place being to the North of
the river. The depth of water, about 1 mile from shore, is 13 to 16 ft.,
deepening to 8 and 9 fathoms at 3 to 4 miles from shore. Weather mostly
calm during summer ; winds, from April to September, mostly moderate, from
N.E. to S.8.E. ; later, the winds turn over South to West, and cause the swell
to set towards Saghalin. During the spring fogs on the West side of the gulf,
the Saghalin coast remains nearly always and entirely clear.
Cape Votdvijenia, in lat. 49" 56', is a bluff about 100 ft. high, with a high
rock off it. Karsakov Bay, in lat. 50° 5', affords shelter from S.W. winds, and
has a village on its shore. Cape Piltoo, its South point, is surrounded by a
I
1
1
1
1
760
THE GULF OF TARTARY.
reef, and nearly half a mile from it are two rocks above water. From hence
aa far as Dui the coast is high and bold, and a reef is said to extend a short
distance off it. In lat. 50° 12' is KitouiiHill, a remarkable peak, 2,000 ft. high.
Koaakevitch Say, in lat. 50° 19', affords shelter from S.W. winds, in 18 ft.
water. In the vicinity are two sharp hills, about 6 miles apart, the southern
one lying 2 miles southward of the bay.
DUI, m about lat. 50° 50' N., long. 142° 5' E., is a Russian settlement on
the shores of a small bay formed by Cape Hoidji on the South, and Cape Otsisi
on the North. In the vicinity are a saw-mill and large coal mines, worked by
convicts. The coal, which is said to be nearly equal to North country coal for
steaming purposes, is largely shipped to Castries Bay, for the use of the Russian
squadron at Vladivostok and the Amur. It is loaded into boats from a pier
about a mile northward of the settlement ; its price is about 10 roubles (£1)
per ton. There is a telegraph cable to Castries Bay.
LIGHTHOUSE.— A square lighthouse, 40 ft. high, stands on the slope of a
hill overlooking the settlement, and from it is shown a Jlxed bright light, ele-
♦ated 374 ft., and visible 22 miles, between N. by E. J E. and S.W. i W. In
foggy weather a Bell is sounded slowly, but will be sounded rapidly when a
vessel's signal is heard. A Gun will be fired in answer to a gun fired at sea.
Cape Hoidji, near which is a waterfall, appears perpendicular from the south-
ward, gradually rising inland to a mountain summit. A reef extends nearly 6
cables N.W. by N. J N. from the cape, and is marked by two beacon buoys,
GO ft. apart, in 4|- and 4^ fathoms. Here the coast curves to the eastward,
with high red cliffs, broken by gullies. Cape Otsisi ends in a conical rock,
close to which are three remarkable pinnacle rocks, 50 ft. high; a reef extends
northward of the latter, the extremity being marked by a perch beacon.
Owing to the foggy weather, and the uncertainty of the current, it is ad-
visable to make the coast South of Cape Hoidji. The reef off this cape will be
cleared by keeping Cape Otsisi bearing N.E. until the lighthouse bears south-
ward of East, vhen steer for it. Small vessels can lie off the pier in 3 fathoms,
with the ligh* bouse bearing E.S.E. ; but larger vessels should anchor in 5 to G
fathomj, witn the pier bearing East, and Cape Hoidji S. by W. The anchorage
is only safe with easterly winds. A black mooring buoy lies in 5 fathoms, about
half a mile West of the pier.
JONQUIERE BAY, a small convict settlement, about 1^ mile N.E. of Cape
Otsisi, is in lat. 50° 54' N., and may be recognised by the rocks off that cape.
This bay should be looked upon only as a fine weather anchorage. It affords
shelter from N.E., round by the East, to South, but is exposed to oil other
winds, and the holding ground is mostly bad, with one or two good spots i.'i 7
to 9 fathoms.
A small river finds an outlet in the bay, and boats can poss over its bar
when the tide is in. A few native huts will be seen on the South side of the
entrance, and between these and Cape Otsisi, or Pinnacle Point, are scams of
JONQUIERE BAY— BAURACOUTA BAY.
761
From hence
extend a short
:, 2,000 ft. high,
nrinds, in 18 ft.
t, the southern
a settlement on
and Cape Otsisi
ines, worked by
country coal for
c of the Russian
ats from a pier
.0 roubles (£1)
a the slope of a
right light, ele-
S.W. iW. In
ropidly when a
;un fired at sea.
r from the south-
extends nearly 6
} beacon buoys,
o the eastward,
a conical rock,
i; a reef extends
h beacon,
urrent, it is ad-
this cape will be
•use bears south-
ier in 3 fathoms,
anchor in 5 to G
. Tlic anchorage
5 fathoms, about
ile N.E. of Cape
cs off that cape,
roge. It affords
)sed to all other
> good spots i.'i 7
ass over its bar
outh side of the
ut, are scams of
good surface coal, some of which, being close to the water's edge, can be easily
worked.
Large quantities of fish were taken in Jonqui^re Bay by hauling the seine
on the beach to the northward of the huts, and good sized flat-fish were caught
with hook and line about a quarter of a mile off shore, in 3 or 4 fathoms water.
Wild fowl and white hares are numerous. The watering place is inconvenient.
Drift-wood is plentiful. The natives are inoffensive and obliging.
Tides, — ^The time of high water, on full and change, in Jonqui^re Bay, is
lO**, and the rise is about 6 ft.
From Jonquiere Bay the coast trends to the N.N.W., and is bold of approach
as far as Cape Uandhi, from which to Cape Liak, at the entrance to the Strait
of Tartary, it appears as an immense plain, skirted by a shoal bank, with 5 to
6 fathoms at IJ mile off. Cape Tyk, in lat. 51° 40', is a low, sandy, project-
ing point, fringed with sand-hills.
Northward of Cape Tyk as far as Cape Golovache/, a distance of 100 miles,
the coast of Saghalin is mostly low and sandy, with numerous streams and la-
goons. On Cape Pogobi, in lat. 52° 12 J', at the narrow part of the entrance
to the Gulf of Amur, is a beacon ; this cape has a landslip on its southern side,
and a white house on its North side.
The West coast of Saghalin having thus been described, we now proceed
to give a description of the western coast of the Gulf of Tai'tary, siurveyed by
Colonel Bolshef in 1875.
Cape Disappointment, or Bielkyna, in lat. 45° 47' N., has rocks extending
a cable off it. When bearing N.N.E. the laud shows in three peaks, close
together. The coast to the north-eastward is hilly, and in lat. 47° 3' is Mount
liaross, 8,400 ft. high.
Suffirein Bay, formed by Cape Suffrein to the South, in lat. 47° 20' N., is
but an exposed anchorage, surroimded by vast forests which extend out of
sight. The cape is fronted by rocks, which stretch half a mile into the offing.
Grossevitcha Bay, or Fish River, in 47° ''5' N., has anchorage off its entrance
in 9 fathoms, at about a mile xrom the land, sheltered from N.W. and westerly
winds. Pestcha.iii or Low Point, in lat. 48° 28', lies between two bluff head-
lands, and there is a table-hill, 1,800 ft. high, a short distance westward of it.
A depth of 8 fathoms was obtained at a mile off shore.
From Low Cape the coost-liue northward is irregular for 15 miles ; its trend
is the.1 i\, by E. 20 miles to Beachy Head or St. Nicholas Point. It is wooded
and steep-to, the lead giving 14 to 17 fathoms at 2 miles off shore. High snowy
mountains are visible inland.
BAEBACOXJTA or Hadshi Bay. — The entrance to this bay (named, also.
Port Imperial), in lat. 49° 2' N., is between Freeman or MiUoutina Point on
the North, and Tullo Island on the South, which bear N. by W. and S. by E.,
about three-quarters of a mile apart. The general depths in the bay ore 5 to
North Pacijic. 6 £
!
762
THE GULF OF TARTARY.
\ 'I
! i
SJl
h
15 fathoms over a mud bottom. The entrance is open to the north-eastward,
but within the bay are several inlets, which afiPord sheltered anchorage for all
classes of vessels. The bay remains frozen for about the same time as Castries
Bay. Its shores are covered with wood fit for building purposes, such as the
larch, fir, and stone-pine. Wild fowl and fish can be obtained here. Russian
war-vessels resort to Pallas Bay for wood.*
The only danger is Carr Bank, with IJ and 2 fathoms on it, which extends
a cable oflf shore on the N.W. side of the entrance, one-third the distance be-
tween Sybille Head and Freeman Point. On the N.E. end of Tullo Island is
a white pyramid beacon, 27 ft. high, and there is a similar one on Pushiashina
or Hill Point, half a mile to the eastward.
Off the entrance of Babbington Harbour, the southern and largest inlet, is
Ustriiza, or Forlescue Island, IJ mile S.W. by W. from Tullo Island. This
inlet trends neorly 4 miles to the S.W., Imperial River flo'- 'ng into its head.
Zapadnaia or Pique Bay trends 3 miles westward, and on its North shore, 3
miles westward of Tullo Island, is the small Russian military settlement of
Konstantinovski, with a pier, on the shore of Pallas Bay. The best anchorage
in Barracouta Harbour is off this settlement, in 6 to 8 fathoms. Ice Harbour,
the northern inlet, is only 3 cables wide. It is high water in the harbour, on
full and change, at lO*" ; the rise is 3 to 4 ft.
In approaching the harbour from the northward, and having made Barren
Bluff, the centre one of three hills over Beachy Head forms a good mark to
lead to the entrance. Vessels from the southward should make the land near
Beachy Head. The beacons on Tullo Island and Hill Point indicate the en-
trance.
Vessels approaching the harbour in foggy weather should not shoal their
water under 40 or 35 fathoms, unless well assured of their position, and in all
cases due allowance must be made for currents. They are sometimes extremely
variable.
The COAST from Beachy Head trends in a northerly direction to Castries
Bay, and is steep-to ; 25 and 30 fathoms have been obtained at a cable's length
off Cape Byki, in lat. 49'' 33' N. The coast assumes a bolder aspect in pro-
ceeding northwards.
In lat. 49" 17' is Barren Bluff, or Lesseps Point, a high perpendicular head-
land, S.W. of which vessels will find shelter during winds from N.N.E. to
N.W., in 5 or 6 fathoms. Cape Byki, or Destitution, in 49"' 46' N., is bold,
high land, having a bay on its North side which affords good shelter in winds
• This bay was discovered by H.M.8. Barracouta, May 12th, 1856. The Russian settlo-
ment is in an inlet on the western side of the harbour, the entrance of which is 1^ mile
within the outer points. Here, at the head of a small bay, were found the burnt remiiius
of the Russian frigate Pallas, which escaped our cruisers in 1854-5. The settlement is built
on a rising ground cleared of wood, and supplied with water from two arUdcial wella.
CASTRIES BAY.
763
th-eastward,
irage for all
3 as Castries
sucli as the
re. Russian
lich extends
distance he-
llo Island is
Pushiashina
jest inlet, is
sland. This
ito its head,
rth shore, 3
lettlcraent of
st anchorage
Ice Ilarlumr,
! harbour, on
made Barren
;ood mark to
he land near
icate the en-
it shoal their
on, and in all
acs extremely
n to Castries
cable's length
ispect in pro-
idicular head-
•m N.N.E. to
6' N., is bold,
clter in winds
3 Ruasian settlo-
'hich is IJ milo
3 burnt remaius
ittlemont ia built
ficial wolla.
from S.E. to S.W., in 9 or 10 fathoms. Inland it is closed by a shelving beach,
on which arc scattered some Tartar huts. — {Mr. Tronson). Cape Siourkoum,
or Dent, a rugged, bluff headland, in 50° 5' N., declines to the eastward, and has
a bay on its North side; close off it is Gulf Rock, a pinnacle about 20 ft. high.
In lat. 51° 16' is Cape Duga, abreast which are two stony islands, and about
6 miles farther northward is a remarkable headland, presenting, when bearing
N. by E. or 8. by W., the appearance of a rocky column, with a round knoll
behind it. A few miles beyond this is the entrance of Castries Bay.
CASTRIES BAY is used by veasels to procure a pilot, or to discharge their
cargoes, when bound to the Amur, as those above 12 ft. draught cannot enter that
river. Its entrance is 4 miles wide between Kloster-camp or Quoin Point, on
the South, and Castries Point on the North, the former being marked by a
lighthouse, and the latter by a beacon. Rocks extend off both these points.
Although the greater part of the bay is open to easterly winds, which throw in
a heavy sea, yet vessels, if their draught will permit, will find shelter behind
the islands in it, particularly at its head on the West side of Observatory
Island. The bay is covered with ice from the middle of November or Decem-
ber to April. The isthmus which separates it from the principal branch of the
Amur is not more than 40 miles across, and Lake Kyzi is only 15 miles distant.
At the head of the bay is the Russian settlement Alexandrovski, founded about
the year 1855, composed of about forty wooden houses, inhabited by a guard
of about 100 men. According to the Russian chart, Alexandrovski is in lat.
61" 28' 2" N., long. 140° 48' 48" E.
Fish may be obtained from the natives ; flour and sugar in small quantities,
and occasionally meat and potatoes, can be obtained. Fresh water can be pro-
cured from the stream at the settlement, and fire-wood is abundant. There is
communication by road with the Amur River and other Russian settlements,
and telegraphic communication with China, Japan, Vladivostok, Nikolaevsk,
and Dui.
The LIQHTHO JSE on Kloster-camp or Quoin Point is painted red with a
white lantern, and shows a^xed bright light, elevated 262 ft., and visible 18
miles. The light is reported to be shown only from May 13 to November 13,
and sometimes to be only visible 4 miles. In foggy weather a Bell is sounded,
and a Gun will answer guns fired at sea.
Oyster Island, IJ mile S.E. by S. i S. from Observatory Island, is 2 cables
long ; a reef extends 3J cables northward of its North point, the extremity
being marked by a red and white beacon. Novik Bank, with only 5 ft. on it,
lies about midway between Oyster and South Islands ; a white beacon marks
its North end, and a red one its South end.
V'ostok Bank, or Danger Rock, upon which the sea occasionally breaks heavily,
but which does not show in smooth water, lies in the middle of the entrance,
with the western part of the promontory (the East extreme of which is Quoin
Point) in line with the bluff headland beyond, bearing about South. Its
m
ft;
'i
m
kt
764
GULF AND RIVER AMUR.
! ,
X.E. end is marked by a red and white buoy, and its S.W. end by two red
perches.
On Klikoff Point, westward of the settlement, are two white triangular
beacons, 90 and 66 ft. high, which in line, bearing W.N.W., lead nearly mid-
way between Vostok Bank and Oyster Island, and to the anchorage.
Vessels should not anchor in the bay South of Oyster Island, the holding
ground being soft and bad. The best anchorage is with Castries Point bearing
N.E. by E. i E., and St. Catherine Point S.E. by E. For large vessels the
best anchorage is in 4^ fathoms, mud, 4 cables W. by S. from Oyster Island.
Directions. — In making the bay from the southward, the two small and
barren islets off Cape Duga will be seen, about 16 miles southward of Quoin
Point. At half a mile northward of D'Assas Point, on the North side of the
entrance, is a small waterfall, a useful mark in foggy weather. In entering
the bay, the beacons on Klikoff Point in line, bearing W.N.W., will lead be-
tween Vostok Bank and the reef extending northward of Oyster Island, in 8 to
7 fathoms. The North end of Observatory Island, bearing West, leads well
northward of Vostok Bank.
It is high water in Castries Bay, on full and change, at lO** 30" ; springs rise
8^ ft., neaps 4 to 5^ ft.
Pilots. — There are no authorised pilots between Castries Bay and the Amur
River, but boatmen can be obtained by applying to the military commander at
Alexandrovski, and to the captain of the port at Nikolaevok, who are well
acquainted with the channels of the river. The government make no charge
for this service, but a sum of 50 roubles is generally given to the men. Captain
Anderson, S.S. Appin, recommends captains of steamers under 13 ft. draught
to dispense with the services of these men, unless able to communicate with
them in the Russian language.
Cape Susohef, or Sutvhoff, 14^ miles N.E. \ N. from Castries Point, has a
smull bay northward of it, affording anchorage in 4 to 5 fathoms. Northward
of this the water becomes shallower towards the entrance of the Gulf of
Amur. Capes Catherine and Nevelskoi are steep, bold headlands, about 4
miles apart, and densely wooded; the former has a white cliff, and about 3
miles N.N.E. of the latter is a shoal, the South side of which is marked by a
red huoy.
GULF AND RIVER AMUR.
The OULF of AKTTB, or Saghalia, b 70 miles long. North and South
and 25 miles at its greatest breadth. The waters of the River Amur, which
run into this vast basin with great rapidity, have formed banks of sand and
mud, which cover almost its whole surface, barely leaving the shallow channels
by which the stream flows on one side to the Sea of Okhotsk, and on the other
to the Strait of Tartary ; this renders the entrance of this gre.it river difficult,
aud at times dangerous.
GULP AND RIVER AMUR.
lea
end by two red
hite triangular
!ad nearly mid-
>rage.
id, the holding
-8 Point bearing
irge vessels the
Dyster Island,
two small and
iward of Quoin
)rth side of the
In entering
7,, will lead be-
r Island, in 8 to
i^est, leads well
0" J springs rise
T and the Amur
Y commander at
, who are well
make no charge
le men. Captain
r 13 ft. draught
nmunicate with
es Point, has a
IS. Northward
of the Gulf of
Hands, about 4
ff, and about 3
8 marked by a
rth and South
: Amur, which
1(8 of sand and
lallow channels
nd on the other
t river difficult,
South Channel. — Immediately North of Cape Lnzarcf, at the South entrance
of the gulf, the channel from the Strait of Tartary divides into two branches.
That which goes to the N.N.W., narrow and slightly winding, is called the
South Fairicay, and keeps close to the Tartary shore. It has a tortuous course
to Nikolaevsk, which is 65 miles from Cape Lazaref. The channel varies from
a quarter of a mile to 2 miles in width ; the depths are generally small, but
occasionally are as much as 14 and 19 fathoms. The least water is 2^ fathoms,
and a flat with this depth extends for nearly 10 miles between Capes Korsakof
and Prongc, and this may be considered the real bar of the river, and must be
crossed to enter it. Beyond this bar the water deepens, and 1 1 ftithoms is
found abreast the town of Nikolaevsk, above which the river is said to be na-
vigable for 1,500 miles.
The N.N.E. branch, or Saghalin Fairway, is wider and deeper than the
other, the least depth being 18 ft. at low water. It keeps along the Saghalin
shore, at about 5 miles distant, for nearly 60 miles, until just North of Cape
Halezof, where it almost touches the coast ; and 20 miles farther North, be-
tween Capes Golovachef and Menshikof, 16 miles apart, it opens out into the
Sea of Okhotsk.
The North Channel, a narrow gut, leads close to Cape Tehakh, the North
entrance point of the Amur, and then trends 30 miles N.E. to the Sea of
Okhotsk, from which it is separated by a bar with only 6 ft. over it.
The RIVER AMUR, or Saghalin Ula, is formed of the streams Shilka and
Argun, which unite in lat. 53^ 30' N. on the frontiers of Russia and China. The
former of these consists of the Ingoda and Onon ; the latter being the main
stream which rises S.E. of Lake Baikal, in the mountain chain called Khing-
khan Ula by the Chinese, and Yablonoi Krebit by the Russians.*
The river flows East as far as Nertchinsk, where it is said to be 600 yards
wide, and very deep ; then North, then again East, when it receives the Argun,
which comes from the South near Baksanova. The united streams, under the
name of Amur, continue to the East and S.E., receiving from the South the
affluents Sungari and Usuri, and reaching its southern limit in 47° 48' N., at
the Mariensk Post, or Kisi, one of the most important Russian stations on the
Amur. A battery has been constructed that commands both the entrance to
the port and the river. It is from this post that the overland route to Castries
Bay (page 763) starts. It would be a most important line for a railway. From
Mariensk the river turns abruptly to the N.E. and East, falling into the Gulf
of Amur between Capes Pronge and Tebakb, which are 8 miles apart, and both
are fortified.
• The work by the late Thos. W. Atkinson, Esq., F.U.G.S., entitled "Travels in the
liegions of the Upper and Lower Amoor," London, 18G0, is, witli his previous work,
" Oriental and Western Siberia," 1858, a most interesting nccount of this nccoinplishcd
utial'a long residence and journeys in these previously almost unknown regiona.
7fl«
THE RIVER AMUR.
The length of the Amur, including all its windings, is about 2,500 miles ; it
is nnvignble for lorge vessels as far m Nertchinsk, 1,600 miles from its mouth,
in the summer season ; in the winter it is frozen over. There are now a large
number of steamers on the Amur, the season when the river is open being
limited to about half the year. Its mouth becomes frozen over about the be-
ginning of November, and the navigation does not open again before May.
At Nikolacvsk, in spring and summer, winds from the eastward and south-
ward prevail, bringing fog and rain. In autumn North and N.W. winds blow.
Nikolaevsk.— The fortress of Nikolaevsk is built on the left bank of the
river, at 22 miles from the entrance. It is surrounded by wooden houses, and
was defended by batteries and strong advanced M'O'^ks, which were nearly all
dismantled, when the Russian naval and militar}' station was removed to
Vladivostok. There is telegraphic communicat i m with Europe, and also with
the Russian settlements. The river is about 2 miles wide abreast the town.
Supplies and assistance in the way of repairs ore difficult to be obtained at
Nikolaevsk. Bullocks and salmon, however, may bo procured. Timber is
plentiful, and the forests extend as far as the eye can reach, but the export of
wood is strictly forbidden. The river water contains much lime, and removes
the paint from the bottoms of boats.
Directions, — A vessel entering the Gulf of Amur from the Strait of Tartary
should proceed with great caution, with a boat sounding on each bow, and an
anchor ready at a moment's notice. At different intervals great chaiigus liave
been announced in the channels. In 1860 the South Fairway Channel was
buoyed, and conspicuous wooden beacons were erected on the land to guido
through the different bends.
Merchant vessels have often remained aground in it for weeks together, and
frequently had to throw a portion of their cargoes overboard to lighten. It
will thus be seen that no permanent directions can be given for this navigation.
The channels leading from the gulf to the anchorage abreast Nikolaevsk are
frequently changing, owing to the great amount of debris sent down by the
strong current of the river, and with the constant fogs, frequent squalls, and
gales, would render the approach both difficult and dangerous, were it not for
the admirable way in which they are buoyed and beaconed.
Tides. — The flood sets to the N.E. along the coast of Russian Tartary at the
rate of 2 miles an hour. At Cape Lazaref the tide flows twice in the twenty-
four hours ; the rise is 6 ft., and sometimes as vauch as 9 ft. at springs, and the
ebb runs 3J to 4 knots. Off the Hagemir Islands the rise is 2 to 3 ft., and the
ebb runs 2 to 3 knots. Abreast of Chome Island the rise is 4 ft., and the water
remains at its highest level about fifty minutes. From Cape Djaore, or Korsakof
Point, to Cape Pronge, there appeared to be no regularity in the tidal action,
it being greatly influenced by the winds. It was high water only oncf m
twenty-four hours, and the tide rose 1 foot with a southerly and 3 ft. with a
northerly wind.
THE COAST OF RUSSIAN TARTARY-POSIiriTE BAY. 767
00 miles ; it
n its mouth,
now a large
open being
lout the be-
>re May.
and south-
winds blow,
bank of the
1 houses, and
:e nearly all
removed to
nd also with
the town,
obtained at
Timber is
he export of
and remoA'cs
it of Tartary
bow, and an
ihanges liave
Channel was
md to guide
iogether, and
lighten. It
s navigation.
ikolaevsk are
iown by the
squalls, and
ere it not for
artary at the
I the twenty -
ings, and the
3 ft., and the
ind the water
, or Korsakof
tidal action,
only oncf m
3 ft. with a
During the few days H.M. ships were off the northern entrance of the Oulf
of Amur, in 1855-6, the greatest rise of tide observed was 6 ft. The current
from the Amur set to the N.N.E., over the banks, sometimes 3 knots an hour.
THE COAST OF MANCHURIA, OR RUSSIAN TARTARY.
The coast of what is now Russian Tartary was but little known till the im-
perial power in China began to decline. When internal rebellion, and ex-
ternal influence were brought to bear on that enormous empire, the countries
which surrounded it, and over which it may be said that its sway was but
limited, became of even less importance, and thus the Manchurian territories
were the more easily ceded to Russia, when the Amur and the adjacent
countries were settled, and commerce opened. The Russian boundary has been
made to gradually encroach on tlie Chinese regions, and is now established at
the Tuman River, the mouth of which is in lat. 42° 18' N.*
The coast of the Korea will be found fully described in the China Pilot, pub-
lished by the Admiralty. To give a full description of a coast seldom or never
visited by European vessels is thought to be beyond the scope of this work.
In the following brief remarks, extracted from the China Pilot, we commence
with the southern point, at the Korean boundary. The coast has been sur-
veyed at different times, and hence there is some confusion of names, but they
are given as adopted in the China Pilot.
Surveys of various parts of this coast were made by several British and
French officers between 1852 and 1855, but the Russians made a more com-
jjlete survey during the years 1859 — 1866.
FOSIETTE BAT, or D'Anville Oalf, is comprised between Sisuro Point to
the S.W., and Cape Gamova or Hxtgon to the N.E., about 33 miles apart. This
latter cape, rising 1,800 ft. above the sea, is the end of a peninsula extending
to the South. It is visible 30 miles off, and, coming from the N.E., is a good
landmark for this bay, as Sisuro Point is from the South.
To the N.W. the bay contracts, forming a strait 4 miles long, and about 2^
miles wide, known as Pallada Road, contracting at its N.W. extreme to a
narrow passage the navigable channel of which is further lessened by Tcher-
karsky Island and shoals, leaving only a channel of a little over a cable in width
communicating with two larger basins named Novogorod and Expedition Bays,
completely landlocked, and affording perfect shelter to any number of vessels.
It is said never to be frozen over. The shores are mountainous, but the land
at the bottom of the bay is low, marshy, and broken by a range of steep bluffs.
Furugelma Island {Cassini Island J, lying in the S.W. part of Posiette Bay,
is 3 miles in circumference, and 413 ft. high, forming a good mark for entering
* A detailed account of these Russian acquisitionB ia given by Dr. W. Q. Blackie,
F.B.Q.S., in the Journal of the British Association, 1858.
768
THE COAST OF RUSSIAN TARTARY.
I
r
i .
tho bay. There are two villages on its West face. A reef of rocks extends
more than half a mile from it8 S. W. point, and another reef projects fully 1
mile from its N.W. point. At half and two-thirds of a mile N.E. by N. J N.
and E. by N. f N. respectively from its N. E. point lie Pilier and liuoi/ Jiocks ;
the former is 30 ft. high, but the latter hardly shows at high water.
Kalavala or Moule Bay is partly sheltered to the S.E. by Furugelma Island,
and to the N.E. by Dodisko Peninsula, the summit of which, named Mount
Direction, is 820 ft. high. The bay is 1] mile deep, North and South, and 1
mile wide at the entrance, which is narrowed by a reef of rocks, awash, stretch-
ing neorly 2 cables off the West shore. With the wind from S.E. to S.S.E. a
heavy swell sets in, making the anchorage unsafe, and the holding ground is
not good. The highest tides observed rose about 3^ ft.
Fallada Boad, comprised between Mount Direction to the South, and Capo
Deger or Klaproth Point to the North, is 5 miles deep, N.W. and S.E., with a
mean width of 3 miles. It affords fair anchorage within Balbi and Maltc Rrun
(Ostrano) Points, the inner points of the bay, in 12 to 5 fathoms, over mud
bottom, open to S.E. Klikova or Yedo Rock, with 10 ft. on it, lies nearly in
mid-channel at the entrance to Falluda Uoad, with Ostrano Point bearing
West, distant 3^ miles ; it can be readily distinguished by the white seaweed
on it.
Expedition Bay i "^ood and secure harbour, and affords a safe retreat for
vessels not wishing to riub < . south-easterly gnlc in Pallada Road. The
entrance to it is nearly half a mile . iJe, but it is divided into two channels
by a large bare rock named the Mingan or Tcherkarsky. The eastern of these
channels should on no account be taken. The other channel on the West side
of the Mingan must be entered with caution, for it is narrow, and a shoal ex-
tends nearly half-way across from T:!i:;rkhodi Rock, so that it is advisable
rather to close the Mingan. Entering t le bay, take care to avoid a small
knoll of 3J fathoms, nearly in the i-en+ie of the fairway. The observation
spot on Tchurkhoda or Musoir Bock, i.^ in latitude 42° 37' 50' N., longitude
130° 48' 45" E., approximate.
It is high water at the entrance to Expedition Bay, on full and change, at
2'' 30", and the rise is about 2J ft.
Coal is obtained from coal-pits on Mokhouvey Peninsula, about 3 cables
N.E. of Tyrol Point, and here is a Russian settlement. Vessels can anchor off
the coal-pits in 18 ft. water, mud bottom, at 2^ cables from the shore. There
is telegraphic communication with the other Russian settlements.
Novogorod Bay, or Port Louis. — After passing through the channel be-
tween the Tchurkhoda and Tcherkasky Rocks, Novogorod Bay will open out
to the eastward. There are no dangers after the harbour is open. Anchorage
may be taken anywhere in mid-channel.
A hard sandy spit runs across the upper part of the harbour, above which is
a li/ge lagoon. The harboui- abounds with fish. There are several small runs
PETER THE GREAT BAY-AMUR BAY.
Ito
!ks extcntU
ects fully I
by N. 2 N.
'uoi/ Rocks ;
iXxaa, Island,
med Mount
3uth, and 1
ash, stretch-
to S.S.E. a
g ground is
;h, and Capo
S.E., with a
, Malto Brun
8, over mud
C8 nearly in
jint bearing
lite seaweed
fe retreat for
Road. The
two channels
tern of these
le West side
a shoal ex-
is advisable
void a small
! observation
'{., longitude
i change, at
tout 3 cables
m anchor off
loro. There
channel be-
irill open out
Anchorage
)ove which is
al small runs
of good water ; there are also various beds of oysters, and one of lnrp;o mussels.
The hills are covered with long grass, and abound with pheasants, partridges,
and foxes; and the low ground, which is swampy, with woodcock and snipe.
There are several villages of Manchu Tartars here.
PETEB THE GREAT BAT.— Eastward of Cape Uamova the coast forms
a deep bight 50 miles across, between it and Askold Island, divided by a penin-
sula, which projects southward from its head, and a chain of numerous islands,
into two deep bays, the western of which is named Amur Bay, and the eastern
Ousouri Bay.
Koriakov or Peelea Island, about 2 J miles long, lies about 11 miles W.N.W.
of Cape Oamova, and a chain of islets and rocks extends nearly 3 miles N.W.
of it. Off the S.E. point are several high rocks. Approaching from the south-
ward it appears as two islands.
Dournovo, Hildebrct.i.lt, and Dalevron Islets, about 100 feet high, lie from
2 J to 3J miles N.W. of Korsakov; two rocks, awash, lie 1 mile N.W. of
Dalevron, the northern island, and two others southward of it, all marked by
beacons.
Redcliffe Island lies about 3 miles N.E. of Korsakov, and a reef, marked by
beacons, lies about 4 cables N.W. of its North point. To the N.N.W. of it
are Antipanko and Sebereakov Islands, connected by a reef, both high ard
rocky, and covered with vegetation.
Mani , or White Cliff Bay, a large open bay westward of the latter islands,
apparent./ affords good shelter, but the South point, with rockis off it, should
not be approached too near.
AMUR BAT, or Ouerin Oulf, extends 35 miles N.E., with an average
breadth of 8 miles ; there are several good anchorages in it.
Slavianski Bay, or Fort Bruce. — About 2^ miles northward of Antipanko
Island is a conspicuous cliffy point, which forms the S.E. point of a secure and
deep bight, named Slavianski Bay, which forms an excellent harbour, and is
well protected by the Eugenie Archipelago. The soundings are regular, and a
vessel may anchor in 4 fathoms, good holding ground, near the head of the
N.W. bay, where there is a small river. Fish and potatoes were procured
from the natives. Vessels entering should pass South of Gerasineov Island.
When abreast Slavianski Bay, Mount Virginie, a high table hill, will be seen
to the north-eastward, with a tuft of trees on its summit ; and farther, in the
same direction, another named Mount Winchester, a rocky and elevated pro-
montory, the eastern slope of which terminates in a low sandy point named
Pestchanoi, in lat. 43° 11' N. H.M.S. Winchester, 1856, anchored in 6 J
fathoms, mud, with this point bearing S. by W. i W., and Retchnoi Islet
N.E. by N. i N. ; this anchorage is good, and quite landlocked. A provision
dc|}6t is established in this bay for the use of the Russian troops stationed on
the Sui-fun River.
2\,^orth Pacific. d p
\'-vi
770
THE COAST OP RUSSIAN TARTARY.
il
I
f
l!i
't
The head of Amur Bay forms an eztengive shallow bight, the shallow Sui-fun
flowing into its N.W. extremity. There is a Russian military post on the river,
and near it are some Government saw-mills.
The distance from Pestchanoi Point to the entrance of the river is 7 miles.
A vessel might anchor within 3 miles of the entrance, as the depths gradually
shoal towards it. Good water can be procured about a mile from the entrance.
Wood can be obtained on any part of the coast, the land being covered with
trees, and the beach with drift-wood.
EUGENIE AECHIPELAOO consists of a chain of high islands, extending
20 miles 8.W. of Muravief Amursky or Albert Peninsula.
Kazakavitoh Island, the largest of the chain, and separated by the Eastern
Bosphorus from the Muravief Promontory, is about 8 miles across, and deeply
indented in many parts. It is mountainous, and thickly wooded. Novik Bay,
or Port Deans Dundas, on its N.W. side, is a long and narrow inlet, extend-
ing nearly to the S.E. point. It is 8^ cables wide at its entrance, and is very
clear of dangers, having depths of 8 to 5 fathoms to within a mile of its head,
where it suddenly shoals. Voevoda Bay, or Port Stetvart, and Boyarin or
Wilder Bay, and several other smaller bays on the West coast of Kazakavitch,
also afford shelter for ships of the largest draught, and no doubt good water
can be procured by digging wells. Westward of Voevoda Bay two buoys and
three beacons are moored in line in about 1 1 fathoms, half a mile apart, for
testing the speed of vessels.
Paris Bay, on the N.E. side of Kazakavitch, immediately westward of
SkryplefF Island, affords sheltered anchorage in 9 fathoms, yijax Bay, North
of Paris Bay, has several shoal patches in it, Skriabin Bank, lying near its
centre, being marked by a beacon.
Popov, Reineke, and Rickord, the next largest islands, lie to the S.W, of
Kazakavitch, Japanese Strait or Fellowes Passage, the passage between the
two latter, having depths of 8 to 15 fathoms. Virkhovski Islands, nearly 3
miles S.E. of Reineke, are low ; the S.E. island is marked by a pole beacon.
Karamzin Island lies 1^ mile S.E. of Rickord Island; and four other islands
lie S.W. of Rickord, the outer of which is Jeltukhin Island. Tsivolko, 1 J mile
W.N.W. of Jeltukhin, is marked by a beacon, and l>,as a remarkable hole
through it. Currie Channel, between the latter and Antipanko Island, is 6
miles wide.
EASTERN BOSPHORUS, or Hamehn Strait, is 6 miles long, and about
half a mile wide in its naiTowest part, at its western entrance, where a sand-
spit stretches nearly half-way across from the northern point. Cape Tokarefsky,
a red and white striped buoy lying off the extremity.
LIGHTS. — A black and white pile lighthouse stands in 12 ft. water on the
extremity of Cape Tokarefsky spit, and shows a Jixed bright light, elevated
18 ft., and visible 4 miles southward between W. by N. f N. and E. by S, J S.
On Larionoff Point, on the opposite side, is a red lighthouse, showing a
Japanbsb.
ChLaai
Ko, as a prefix
Oki
O, as a prutix
Kuchi (makus Guchi
in the compound, as
Eawa giichi) ....
Eawa (makes Gawa
in the compound) . .
Yarna
Kuni
Nada
Utni
Seto
Hona
Saki
Misaki
Ura
Minato
Mura
Sima (in the Yedo
dialect pronounced
Shima, and somo-
times forma in the
compound Jima, as
Awa Jima)
Hama
Tei-haku
Siwo (pronounced in
Yedo Shiwo) ....
Bhi'wo, or eiwo. . . .
Ko shiwo ,,
Michinhiwo ,,
Hiki shiwo ,,
Iwa
Tshi
Kita
Minnmi
Hagauhi
Ninhi
Khzo
Anio
Yuki
Kumo
North Pacijic,
JAPAN.
Glossary of Japanese Words.
English. Japanbse. English.
Littio, small. Mid/.u Water.
Little, small. Hi Fire.
Largo, great. Tsuki Moon.
Largo, great. O Hi Sun.
Mouth. Ki Tree.
Michi Road.
The river's mouth. Machi Street.
lye House.
River. Hiroi Wide.
Mountain. H030 Narrow.
Country. Nagai (pronounced in
A sea. Yedo Nangai) .... Long.
Tne sea. Mijikai Short.
Strait. No (possessive pron.) Of.
Point. Wa (the definite art.) The.
Cape. Wo (ohjective case)
A prominent cape. Ga (indefinite article) A or any.
Day. Kane (in the com-
Harbour. pound Qane) .... Metal.
Villago. Aki-yane (red metal) Copper.
Kin Gold.
Gin Silver.
Tetsu Iron.
Tomio Lighthouse.
So A shoal.
Island. I'ukai Deep.
Coast, shore. Asai Shallow.
Anchorage. Tnkai High, lofty, tall.
Tera Temple.
Tide. Fune Boat.
Spring tide. .Toki sen Steamer.
Noop tide. Ho bune Sailing vessel.
i'lood tide. Kuroi Hlack.
Ebb tide. Shiroi AVhite.
Rock. Hana iro Itliio.
Stone. Ki iro YoUow.
North. Ilatolm Wharf, lauding.
South. Gako Cliff.
East. Take Hill.
West. Ikari Anchor.
Wind. Kochira r, i asai ka . . Is it shonl hereP
Rain. Kochira ni fukai ka Is it deep hero P
Snow. Niuorjin Man.
Clouds. Onna Woman.
.") V 2
■•mi
7
JAPAN— GLOSSARY, ETC.
Japanbsb. English.
Kodomo Child.
IJchi In, inside.
Unjosho Custom-house.
Ham Spring.
Natsu Summer.
Aki Autumn.
Fuyu Winter.
Hama Sand.
Doro Mud.
Hashi Bridge.
Sibansho Guard-house.
Qunkan Man-of-war.
Hata Flag.
Oats Month.
Nichi Dav.
Japanese. Enoiish.
Omo kaji Starboard.
Tori kaji Port.
Uma Horao.
Ushi Bull.
Niwatori Fowl.
Tamago Egg.
Kamo Duck.
Imo Potatoes.
Mame Beans.
Karo Magistrate.
Shikwan Officer.
Daimio Noble.
Joki sha Railway.
Oka La,nd.
Midzu umi Lake.
1,1
In the pronunciation of many of the above words, i and u are often almost inaudible.
Money.
The coinage now in use in Japan was adopted in the year 1871. The Yen, a gold
coin weighing 25.72 grains troy, was constituted the fundamental unit of the system.
The gold coins are 1, 2, 5, 10, and 20 yen pieces, the latter valued at £4 3«. Id.
Silver and copper coins are as follows, the yen or dollar being used in paying
duties, and in commercial transactions.
Silver.
1 yen
50 sen
20 sen
10 sen
5 sen
4». 2d.
2a. U.
lOi.
6rf.
2irf.
Copper.
1 sen = h4.
J sen := }tl.
1 rin =: ig-<''
Weights.
Avoirdupois.
1 drachm
1 oz. -
pound
cwt.
ton
.4695 Mommo.
7.5117
120.187
134G1.
209220.
Troi/.
1 gram - rr
.01717 Momme
1 pennyweight
.4121
1 oz. -
8.242
1 poand
98.1
1 inch
1 foot
1 yaixl
1 pole
1 furlong
1 mile
1 geographical mile -
1 degree ...
Measures.
.08378
1.00O02
3.019086
16.588473
663.539
•6308.812
6119.304
367158.
Shakus.
or 28.330111 Ri.
The Measures of Capacity arc as follows ; —
Chinese.
1 Shiyaku (Clioh) =
NgoB (Koh)
Japanese.
10 Sai -
10 Sbiyaku
10 KgoS
10 BhoU
'0 To .
- ^
1 Sho6 (Bbiiig) •
1 To (Tau)
I Koku -
Cubic measure.
1.1075 cubic inches.
11076 „ „
110.75 „ „
1107.5
6.409 cub'c feet.
Liquid measure.
or .3195 pints,
or 3.195 „
or 3.9!'i ■ (wllons.
ur iM'Si I'lf'it'ls.
EASTERN BOSPHORUS— PORT VLADIVOSTOK.
771
Enolisr.
)oarJ.
I.
toes.
LB.
istrate.
er.
le.
way.
1.
3.
iMt inaudible.
The Yen, a gold
lit of the system.
: £4 3s. id.
■ used in paying
)I717 MomitiR.
1'21
12
111 Ri.
Liquid moasuro.
..1195 pints.
•3.1M „
■ 3.9!'-. " laiUons.
4.ay'jS Ltir'iels.
Jlxed bright light, elevated 196 ft., and visible 14 miles northward between
W. I N. and E. | S. A red sector of 5° is shown between N. 80° E. and
N. 85° E., leading southward of Cape Tokarefski spit.
On Pospaloff Point, 2J miles E. by 8. J S. from Larionoff Point, two Jixed
leading lights are shown, which in line, bearing E. by S. ^ S., lead through
the channel between Cape Tokarefsky and Larionoff Point. The upper light
is bright, elevated 21 ft., and visible 4 miles, shown from a white beacon ; the
lower light, green, elevated 17 ft., is shown from a green beacon.
Skrypleff Island, a round rock, about 150 ft. high, and covered with grass,
lies at the eastern entrance to the Eastern Bosphorus. Two white cross
beacons on its East side in line, S.S.E., lead over the reef extending N.W. of
it. Vessels approaching from the northward should keep the beacons open of
each other. The North point of the reef is marked by a buoy. The extremity
of the reef extending eastward of Cape JitkoflF, towards the South end of
Skrypleff Island, is also marked by a buoy. A sunken rock is reported to lie
1i[ cables N.W. i N. from the North point of the island. There is a Signal
Station on the island, in communication with Vladivostok.
LIGHTS. — On the summit of Skrypleff is a lighthouse, 18 ft. high, showing
& Jixed bright light, elevated 150 ft., and visible 15 miles, h. fixed green light,
elevated 164 ft., and visible 4 miles, is shown from a pyramid on the N.W.
side of the island, and the lights in line, N.W. f N., lead through the eastern
part of the Eastern Bosphorus.
Fog Signals.— A Bell near the lighthouse is sounded in foggy weather; and
a G'ln will be fired from the East end of the island in answer to reports of
tf^'us hoard from seaward.
i ORT VLADIVOSTOK, Golden Horn Say, or Port May, on the northern
8* ^e ,/i '.he Eastern Bosphorus, is an excellent harbour, where a vessel may lie
ijui'.. ndlocked in 8 or 9 fathoms, stiff mud. The town, on its North shore,
i^ l:«it rising in importance, now that it is the head-quarters of the Russian
Sibcr '.;. squadron. At the western end is the naval yard. In the thick forest*
arou id, tigers, bears, wolves, boars, and deer abound. The shores are covered
wit'j oak forests, and coal appears to be everywhere present. The hills over
th e settlement are entrenched. In 1881 the population numbered 7,819, of
whom 5,883 were Russian. The exports consist of fish, &c., for the Chinese
market, the imports being provisions and manufactured goods.
In 1883 dock works were being actively proceeded with, and an hydraulic
lift, capable of lifting vessels of 4,600 tons, is in course of construction.
Fresh beef can be obtained at 6d. per lb., and all sorts of vegetables. Salmon
is abundant. A small supply of water can be procured from wells. Saghalin
coal can be had in any quantity. There is telegraphic communication with
St. Petersburgh, &c.
The climate, though variable, is pleasant during summer, but it is cold and
M
m
t!
iU
772
THE COAST OF RUSSIAN TARTARY.
dreary in winter, when the harbour is frozen for three or four months. May,
June, and July are usually wet.
Liffhti.—On Cape Goldobin, the eastern entrance point of the port, two
fixed lights, visible 8 miles, are shown from two red posts ; the upper light,
elevated 53 ft., is red, and the lower light, at 48 ft., is bright, the line of the
lights in line passing through the low point of Cape Tokarefski. Two fixed
lights, the eastern red, and the western green, are shown on the extremity of
the Admiralty pier, and on its inner extremity are tyro fixed bright lights.
Fog Signal. — A la'- ■re Bell is sounded slowly, in foggy weather, on Cape
Goldobin ; in answer ' <-'' \ from seaward, a large and small Bell will bd
Bounded in quick succef.
There is a battery on Cap ioldobin, and a Signal Station. Buoys mark the
shoal banks extending off the shores of the entrance.
According to Lieut. Onasetvich, the observation spot at Vladivostok is in lat.
43" 6' 51" N., long. 131° 53' 19J" E., but telegraphic determinations by U.S.
officers, 1881-2, compute the longitude as 131° 62' 44".
Patroclus Bay, on the northern shore of the Eastern Bosphorus, affords an-
chorage in its N.E. corner, in 6 fathoms. Ulysses Cove is a landlocked basin,
westward of Patroclus Bay, its entrance being only half a cable wide. Diomedes
Inlet, East of Cape Goldobin, affords secure and sheltered anchorage.
OUSOUBI BAY, or Napoleon Gulf, is about 33 miles deep, and 16 miles
wide, the land on its western shore being bold. The eastern shore has several
indentations, encumbered with shoals.
Askold Island, Termination Island, the eastern point of Peter the Great
Bay, is 2,000 ft. in height, about 3J^ miles long, and 2^ miles broad. Rocks
extend off its N.E. and S.E. points, and its shores are steep and rocky. Gold
is reported to have been found here. Nayezdnik Bay, on its South side, affords
anchorage at its head in 8 fathoms, open to S.W. winds.
LIGHTHOUSE.— On the South point of Askold Island is a red lighthouse,
showing afiashing bright light, visible 25 miles seaward between E. by N. f N.
and N.W. i W.
Fog Signals. — In foggy weather a Bell will be sounded ; and in answer to
every gun heard in the offing a gun will be fired.
Between Askold Island and Maidel Point is a passage 3 miles wide, Unkqfski
Island, having some islets off its North end, lying in mid-channel.
Strelok Bay, or Fort Freeman. — Westward of Maidel Point the coast forms
a bight, the centre of which is filled by the large island Putiatin, thus form-
ing a strait, on the North side of which are several small bays. Hasboinik
Bay, at the N.W. corner, affords excellent anchorage for one vessel in 5J
fathoms, completely landlocked ; and other vessels may anchor outside in pcr-
leci shelter. Ahrck Bay, eastward of Rasboinik Bay, is exposed to winds from
the S.E.
Vostok Bay, East of Strelok Bay, is open to the S.W., but small bays on
AMERICA BAY— 8IAU WUHU BAY.
778
its northern shore afford sheltered anchorage. The coast is high and rocky.
Gaidamak Harbour, on the West shore, although small, affords secure and
sheltered anchorage in 5 fathoms.
America Bay, or Hornet Bay, is formed between Cape Sredni on the West,
and Povorotny Point on the East. Capt. Forsyth, who discovered it in H.M.S.
Hornet, in 1856, describes it as a spacious inlet, 8 miles wide and deep, carry-
ing a moderate depth up to its head, but open to southerly winds. The
Sutchan or Ltfont River flows roimd the foot of a peculiar conical hill at the
head of the bay, with a depth of 5 ft. on the bar. Alexandroviska, a convict
settlement, is situated on this river. Gold is reported to have been found here.
Vessels should not pass between Lisi or Fox Island and the West shore, but
there is good anchorage northward of it between the island and the main.
Many villages and several herds of cattle were seen. Povorotny Point or Cape
Kruilov, the S.E. point of the bay, has a steep face of gray rock 200 ft. high,
and southward of it is a red cliff. Some distance N.E. of the point is a hill
with a red summit.
Wrangel Bay, on the eastern shore of America Bay, is 8 cables wide at its
entrance, and about 2 miles deep, affording perfectly sheltered anchorage;
the depths decreasing gradually from 10 fathoms at the entrance to 6 fathoms
at half a mile from its head. The tides rise 2 ft. Kosmin Bay, about 3 miles
South, affords good anchorage. Nakhodka Bay, on the western side of
America Bay, is nearly a mile wide at its entrance, and 2 miles deep, and is
perfectly sheltered from all winds, but the harbour is too shallow for vessels
of lurge draught. There is a small Russian military settlement here. Anchor-
age may be had in 4^ fathoms, soft mud.
The Coast from America Bay to St. Vladimir Bay, a distance of 150 miles,
embraces mountain ranges, which do not rise higher than 3,000 ft. The
coast is bordered by forests, and is thinly populated, the natives being com-
municative and obliging. As a general rule, along the coast of Russian Tar-
tary, every valley which terminates on the sea-beach has its stream of excellent
water. Drift-wood is generally to be found on the beaches.
The coast between America Bay and Cape Zamok, or Islet Point, was sur-
veyed by the Russian schooner Vostok, in 1861. From Islet Point to St.
Vladimir Bay was surveyed by H.M. ships Actaon and Dove, in 1859.
Tcheniya Bay, about 25 miles eastward of America Bay, is small but com-
modious, being over 1^ mile in depth, and 1 mile wide at its entrance, with
depths of 11 to 4 fathoms.
Cape Zamok, Ostrovni or Islet Point, is a bold, rocky headland, between
which and St. Vladimir Bay the coast is remarkably clear of dangers, a for-
tunate circumstance where the navigator is so frequently enveloped in dense
fogs.
Siaa Wuhu Bay, Preohrajenya, lies 6 miles north-eastward of Cape Zamok,
and affords a small but well sheltered anchorage in 5 to G fathoms, in its N.E.
1
i
i
i
1 n
u
''■<:i
m
THE COAST OF RUSSIAN TARTARY.
corner. It is 2^ miles deep, and 3^ miles wide at its entrance between Petrova
Island and Cape Creasy, its eastern entrance point, the latter being a bold
rocky headland, 695 ft. high. From the southward, a hill 2,720 ft. high, the
most elevated in the immediate neighbourhood, is a good mark to point out its
position ; it bears N.W. by N., 4^ miles, from Orekhof Island, which partly
shelters the anchorage. Vessels requiring a refit would find the inner harbour
admirably adapted for the purpose ; there is no perccpt^'^le rise and fall of tide.
An extensive plain on the North side of the outer anchorage affords pas-
turage for cattle, which are, however, small, but the beef is excellent. The
natives ask high prices, only accepting silver in payment. The country abounds
in deer. Vegetables and wood are plentiful. Water may be obtained at a
stream which flows into the N.E. comer of the outer bay.
St. Valentine Bay, Ta Wuhu, 22 miles N.E. by E. from Cape Creasy, is
quite exposed to the southward and eastward, and can only be recommended
as a temporary anchorage for steamers. Its position is marked by a hill 2,370
feet high, 1^ mile North of it; and its N.E. side by four very conspicuous
cliffs. There is a village here, but no supplies could be obtained. Castle
Point, 15 miles N.E. by E. ^ E. from St. Valentine Bay, is a remarkable bluff,
its yellow cliffs rising almost precipitously to an elevation of 1,060 ft.
Broken Head is a fine rocky promontory, 660 ft. high, 8^ miles N.E. by
E. f E. from Castle Point ; it is the termination of a range of hills, to the rear
and northward of which is an extensive and well-watered plain, void of trees.
Off the S.E. face of Broken Head is a high rock like a shark's fin. Inside the
entrance of Mosquito River, 2^ miles North of Broken Head, is a small shel-
tered basin of 3 to 5 fathoF?' water, too small for any but small craft. The bar
had 13 ft. on it in 1859. From 8 to 9 miles N.E. of Broken Head are a line of
conspicuous white cliffs. St. Eustaphia Bay, 4 or 5 miles beyond, is a small
open bay, with exposed anchorage in 4 to 5 fathoms, sand. The coast from St.
Eustaphia Bay trends E.N.E., 7^ miles, to Low Table Point, Mount Kruglaya,
1,920 ft. high, lying about midway between.
Low Table Point, 20 miles N.E. by £. from Broken Head, is 120 ft. high,
and is probably so named on accour^ of the perfect level country in its imme-
diate vicinity ; it is bordered with a vertical cliff, extending 2 miles to the
eastward from the base of a conspicuous round- topped mountain about 1,200 ft.
high, which is especially useful in making Olga Bay from the southward, before
Table Point is seen.
OLGA BAY, or Port Michael Seymour, in lat. 41° 43' N., 11 miles N.E. by
N. i N. from Low Table Point, was discovered by H.M.S. Hornet, in July,
1 856. It is open to the southward, but there is shelter from all winds in its
northern part, in 10 fathoms, mud. It is frozen for four months in the year.
A narrow passage, named Brown Channel, at its N.E. part, leads into an inner
harbour or estuary, which is well adapted for careening purposes. This channel
has only 3^ fathoms in it, deepening to 6 and 7 fathoms towards the inner har-
^ "niarnri i-i"
sn Petrova
ng a bold
high, the
tint out ita
ich partly
er harbour
fall of tide.
Sbrds paa-
lent. The
■y abounds
aiued at a
Creasy, is
ommcnded
, hill 2,370
onspicuous
d. Castlt
table bluff,
ft.
s N.E. by
to the rear
d of trees.
Inside the
small shel-
l. The bar
re a line of
is a small
St from St.
Kruglaya,
!0 ft. high,
its imme-
iles to the
It 1,200 ft.
ard, before
es N.E. by
/, in July,
inds in its
a the year,
to an inner
lis channel
inner har<
OLOA BAY— ST. VLADIMIK BAY.
775
hour, on the shores of which is a small military settlement. There is a
Chinese settlement on the eastern side of the bay ; the Chinese collect sea-
cabbage for export. Avakum or Gilbert River flows into the N.W. angle of
the port. Petrova Rock, with 5 ft. on it, lies 6 cables E. \ 8. of Cape Linden
on the western side of the entrance to Olga Bay ; it is marked by a perch
beacon.
Supplies can be had in moderate quantities only. The seine will always
procure an abundance of capital fish, such as salmon and trout. A few fowls
may also be procured, and small supplies of fresh butter, beef, and mutton.
The watering stream flows through a valley on the eastern side of the port, near
^be ordinary anchorage. Wood may be obtained in any quantity.
The position of Olga Bay may be easily known when approaching it from
the northward by Brydone Island, on the eastern side of the entrance, and th
only one on this part of the coast ; it appears white from seaward. Approach-
ing from the southward, the entrance will be recognised by the opening in the
land. Brydone Island is not distinguishable at any great distance, as, being
only 325 ft. high, it looks like a cliff of Mount Sacken, the hill 1,341 ft. high,
behind it. The outer anchorage is very exposed, and the holding ground not
go6d. It is high water, on full and change, at 5** 30°° ; the rise is about 3 ft.
The coast northward of Olga Bay for 20 miles is bold and rocky ; the white
chalk cliff of Cape Lunden is conspicuous.
ST. VLADIMIR BAY, in lat. 43° 54' N., 19 miles northward of Olga Bay,
was discovered by the Russian frigate America, in 1857. Its entrance, 1^
mile wide, and open to the East, is formed between North Head or Cape
Ballouzek, 347 ft. high, and South Head or Cape Watauski, 712 ft. high, both
of which, when approaching from the East or N.E., appear like islands. From
thence the bay extends westward, and forms three arms, one to the North, one
to the South, and the other, the smallest, to the West. The depths are about
15 to 5 fathoms in the North and South arms, but the West arm is compara-
tively shallow, and has a 2-ft. shoal midway in its entrance.
The South arm is well sheltered, but, as a slight swell is frequently expe-
rienced there, it can scarcely be recommended as a fit place for careening,
especially with Olga Bay in such close proximity. To the South it communi-
cates by a stream with a lake of 16 to 10 ft. water, which with little trouble
might be formed into a graving dock. A stony reef extends 2^ cables from
the East side of the entrance.
There is no fixed population in this bay. A few bullocks were seen, but
their owners would only part with them for sycee silver, refusing dollars. Soma
potatoes and wild onions were obtained. Deer are numerous.
The tides are irregular in St. Vladimir Bay. It is high water, on full and
change, at P, and the range is about 2 ft.
Approaching from the southward, Pinnacle and Chetyrek Points are the only
remarkable features, the former having a sharp needle rock at its extreme.
mi
I \
77fl
THE COAST OF RUSSIAN TARTARY.
1
!| iii
i
i lilt:
!
,1
' n
Chetyrek Point, 3^ miles S.S.W. of the South Head, is formed by three rooky
summits.
The COAST from St. Vladimir Bay trends in a N.E. by N. direction to
Barracouta Harbour, in 49° 2' N., then N. by E. to Castries Bay, and is firee
from apparent danger. Its outline was but imperfectly known until 1855, when
H.M. ships Sybille and Barracouta sailed along it, and determined the follow-
ing points and anchorages. This coast was surveyed by the Russian Colonel
Bolschef, in 1875, an undertaking of great difficulty and hardship.
Shelter or Oprichnik Bay, in 44° 30' N., affords shelter from N.E. winds.
Good water can be obtained in a river a cable wide, with a bar at its mouth,
and a depth of 9 ft. within. It affords a supply of fish.*
Sybille or Plastoon Bay, in 44° 44' N., affords shelter from S.S.E. winds.
Its entrance is remarkable from having on either side some prominent pinnacle
rocks, high and isolated. The bay is closed by a broad valley, tlirough which
some streams run and form a small river, which empties itself into the bay.
Fiqne Bay, in la t4° 46' N., has good shelter from N.E. and easterly winds.
The best anchorage is in 5 fathoms, with the point bearing S.E. by E. Cattle
may be obtained at this anchorage.
Bollock or Temei Bay, in 45° 5' N., affords but bad anchorage. Bullocks
and fowls can be procured, but with difficulty.
Luki or Shants Point, in 45° 22' N., is high, bluff, and woody. Cape Dis-
appointment, in 45° 47' N., has rocks extending a cable from it.
The coast to the northward, in the Gulf of Tartary, is described previously,
pp. 76 i— 764.
* This coast is described in Mr. Tronsoa's Voyuge of the Barracouta, 1859, p. 326, &o.
J three roekjr
. direction to
', and is free
il 1855, when
d the follow-
Bsian Colonel
N.E. winds.
It its mouth,
3.S.E. winds,
aent pinnacle
trough which
> the bay.
Eisterly winds.
>y E. Cattle
;e. Bullocks
Cape Dis'
d pre>iousIy,
), p. 326, &o.
(till I'l- (lull .' I'l- rlnli Slrail '^
Vi.!* Na. ("^
7../-«.i»i W II A N t. U A l!
Utn Ai)i .i/ia>
<<>n/^r»*inf (ir.'' .'•'
lv,|v.-in .. .^'j^. \ [>•.*..«/'
A* ^' i
V K I. i..y,' SKA ■: • •^^'""'-N'-^ «v/.s iJ-^^'^^rV
\SVt. \'uijf tsf ki-iii|:
''*'••'""• '' E A ^ T K H N SEA
, Swatoir
llft
OK ;''
^ Kikin w
/i", i//t-/A
Lu- chu
(il'OIIJ) ^
• ' "£^ . 1
'tte 7;,
rup
:-*^„
n*iii
Hiua I.
K M lALHll 'j 1 F, tn SIHt F r, ,0
/',.,.•
Wtfii>'
llj
i ■ Li IW>iU'*f Ml
(. r L t'' " K •
^<' ,<..i.i
.iUV.' ii.
O
w.
-_:rrrrx«TM«rir
1
St;ity«»*-1
'"»» /A :
yS'll'tMniir It-
nUmnLt R^
Sl".s7.v ■/.//(
Timi.iiiU'r ^, ■ > Y K Z O I W,'.'^.'' ,
.x^'
f.A.^"'".''.
'htiitt or lixjllui
'i '
S K
|i».x>4in^ W, "" -r , • -s ) .,
Ttm""'"' ^'•^ hr^ijrfl /
i'Wvrf/ij /;.
ttnu)
o r
ILttautura
1*
Ytiiiuiilii 11^
Tabu Sima ;:
(•.»-..«ri« ^^ ,.? f-
■a
4^
,1 A r A N
-^40
,. fto" K liusfhot.ii I?
• i
ha Sinta
''iinHt
"'^t
in
>
{f Ktiin i c
liiUiiUo I.
at Caaeo
uvo
M.lAURlt 53 FlttT STREET, ;.ONnON
Si\uth I.
, , 7i*ia/i/.tw<> /^
S.AiufiiMinht>
140
^30
t!iitmfHi.-i
TJft
m:i
mil
'1 »■
I
» '
I
i"::;
i
■0*. ■■'
f-
-♦■.^^
I
r
C 777 )
CHAPTER XI.
Sii .1
iLii
,i''V
JT
If "
THE JAPANESE ARCHIPELAGO.
The celebrated and long mysterious traveller, Maroo Polo, was the first to
announce to the westsrn world the existence of the rich and powerful island of
Xipangu, now known to be Japan. In 1642 a Portuguese, Mendez Pinto, was
cast by a storm on its shores, and a Portuguese settlement from Malacca was
soon afterwards made on Kiuaiu. In June, 1588, some citizens of Rotterdam
fitted out a small fiieet of five ships to trade in the Indian Archipelago, and in-
jure, as much as possible, the commerce and power of Spain. Among several
Englishmen in this fleet, were William Adams, of Oillingham, near Rochester,
and Timothy Shotter, who had accompanied the famous Cavei dish in his cir-
cumnavigation. The venture was pre-eminently imfortunate. Only one ship,
and that the smallest, the Joyout Message, commanded by Siebold de Weert,
returned to Holland. Two of the others were destroyed, and the fourth, in
which were these two Englishmen, reached Japan a mere wreck. The crew
were taken prisoners ; and, after some confinement, Adams was taken into the
confidence of the Emperor ; the rest departed. He was raised to great honours ;
became of first importance in the political and commercial affairs of the empire;
but did not succeed to the extent of his intentions, having gained privileges
only for the Dutch, who have studiously avoided mention of his part in their
establishment. Some extensive privileges were also granted, at his instigation,
to the English East India Company, to establish a factory at Firando.*
As is well known, the only port allowed to be open to foreigners (and this
permission was limited to the Dutch and Chinese) was the Port of Nagasaki,
or rather for the Dutch, the Island of Dezima, lying before it. But the Japanese
maintained a rigid exclusireness, and but little was known to Europe about the
country. Without enumerating the older authors, the principal work on Japan
was a collection from the notices of the Dutch presidents, by Dr. Ph. Fr. van
Siebold, who visited the country in the period between 1823-30, a magnificent
work, worthy of any nation.
* The first English who visited it were with Oapt. Saris, who came to the relief of Adams
from England, in 1611, arriving at Firando June 9th, 1613.
North Pacific. 5 a
BotM Tohaa
I',
.;!):
IJi
!'•!
?i i '
!
'i
H^
P-'»'*-!!^_
778
THE JAPANESE ARCHIPELAGO.
The ©rente of latei- years have marvellously altered the relations between
Japan and western civilization. The various attempts at obtaining some ad-
mission into Japanese affairs, made prior to 1863, cannot here be enunciated.
But in that year, July 8th, Commodore Perry, U.S.N. , appeared off the entrance
to Yedo Bay, with two large steam frigates and two sloops of war. He osten-
sibly i«)\ight at first only to abolish the barbarous Japanese laws, which con-
signed shipwrecked seamen to death, and their vessels to destruction. The
steady resistance to any intercourse, overawed by the presence of this formid-
able force, gradually gave way, and some concessions were granted before the
departure of the fleet, which left with a promise, or menace, from Commodore
Perry, that he intended to return for a more definite answer with a " larger
fleet" in the following year. Accordingly, on February 12th, 1854, a squadron
of nine war vessels appeared in the Bay of Yedo, and after skilful negotiation
a treaty of friendship was concluded between the Tycoon and the United States,
and permission was granted to locate a consul at Simoda, an insignificant place
at the South extreme of the Idsu Peninsula, on the West side of Yedo Bay.
The second stage of this international negotiation was reached by Mr. Harris,
the U.S. diplomat, who, by unremitting zeal, contrived to enter Yedo at the
end of 1857, not to leave it till April, 1858, with the treaty of commerce framed.
This great step was followed by similar concessions being granted to the prin-
cipal European powers ; and that with Great Britain was ratified at Yedo, July
11th, 1859. After all these apparent victories, it was discovered that these
treaties were illegal, having been made with the Tycoon of the period, whereas
it should have been ratified by the Mikado, but this was remedied by the ap-
pearance of the allied fleet from China, and the subsequent full recognition of
the rights of the external world to trade at various ports. Of the subsequent
troubles nothing can be said here. The works of Sir Kutherford Alcock, Capt.
Sherard Osborn, K.N., &c., &c., will supply all that can be I'equired.
The empire of Japan is composed of four large islands, Kiusiu, Sikok, Nipon,*
and Yezo, and numerous smaller islands, said to be above 3,800 in number, to-
gether extending about 900 miles. North and South, with an area of about
160,000 square miles. Nipon, or Honshiu, the largest and most important of
these, and that which gives its name to the whole empire, is more than 700
miles in length, N.E. and S.W., and its breadth varies from 50 to 150 miles.
South of Nipon, and separated from it by a narrow channel, is Kiusiu. Lying
N.E. of Kiusiu, and eastward of the South extreme of Nipon, is the island of
Sikok, about 130 miles in length. It is separated from Kiusiu by the Boungo
• Nipon is applied in Japan to tho whole ornpire. In the two words of the Chinese oha-
mcters which composo it, Jih Pun, it means the place of the riBingof tho Bun. Tho Japanese
soften the first letter into n, and so make it A'i Pun, tho Dutch spelling it Jch Pun, their>
corresponding with our y. The English, giving the harsher sound to j, cull it Japan ; so
Jeem winds.
in Niigata,
isaki, North
lern winds.
, and all the
mmer mon-
as the cold
h light Ta-
lking of ice,
geographic
I been more
rhe eastern
Ider, under
greater or
uch milder
cmperature
same lati-
perature of
West and
roximity of
•tion of fhe
North and
; to 30" and
md remains
>uwu on the
1)°, becomes
of Tsusima
rnae, in the
)e Soja (lat.
are obliged
is rigour of
the freezing
reat Isiunds
ent, have a
country be-
lants of the
• cultivated,
and they gather two rice harvests each year. The environs of Sendai, a city in
lat. 38° 16' N., long. 140° 53' E., produce this grain in such abundance, that,
notwithstanding their northern position, they are in reality, as they are called,
the granaries of Yedo, the most populous city of the country.
" But it is more particularly in the rigorous season, which lasts from the
commencement of January to the end of February, that this difference between
the western and eastern shores of Japan becomes most remarkable. At Dezima
(Nagasaki^ for example, in lat. 32° 45' N., long. 129° 52' E., the thermometer
marks 45° Fahr. ; while at Yedo, in lat. 35° 40', long. 139° 48' E., it rises to
56°; so that the position of the capital, more easterly by 9" 56' than Nagasaki,
raises its temper!^*^^iire liigher by 1 1°, although it is 3° nearer the pole. Thus
in the two months of winter in which these observations were made, the coasts
facing the Asiatic continent were exposed for thirty-seven days consecutively
to the freezing winds from N.W. and North. This circumstance explains, be-
sides, why the white mountain (Siro yamaj, which is on the western coast of
Nipon, in lat. 36° 10', is covered with perpetual snow at 8,200 ft. above the sea ;
and why Fusi yama, at the eastern extremity of the island, with its summit at
12,450 ft., remains without snow for months together.
" During the hot weather in July and August, when the winds blow from
South and 8.E., this disproportion in the temperature disappears, and the mean
height of the thermometer for this season is 79° at Dezima, and 76° at Yedo.
On the South and S.E. coasts, then refreshed by these winds, it hardly exceeds
85° ; nevertheless in the South and S.W. parts of Kiusiu, and chiefly in the
bays sheltered from the breezes, it often rises to 90° and 98°, and sometimes
even to 100°."
In the above description no mention is made of the I' o Riwo, which con-
siderably influences the climate of the coasts along which it flows.
At Hakodate the climate in winter is variable. In the winter of IS.'JO — 60,
the greatest depression of the thermometer was 12°. The characttr of the
winter season is uneven, and acts prejudicially on the health, in consequence
of the great variability of the atmosphere, thaws and sharp frosts alternating.
North-westerly winds blow for four months, and snow fell in the winter of
1859 daily for six weeks. Sir R. Alcock says the winter is almost Siberian,
with long continued and heavy falls of snow, the thermometer standing many
degrees below zero.
Storm Warnings are exhibited at the principal ports as follows : — For
storm approaching, the direction of which is not precisely known : A ball, or
at night a red light. Storm from northward : One cone with apex up, or by
night three red lights, one above and two below. Storm from southward :
One cone with apex down, or by night three red lights, two above and one
below.
Fogg are very prevalent on the coasts of Japan, especially in the northern
parts. lu Juno and July fogs occur frequently in Korea Strait ; fiirther to the
m
»k
782
THE JAPANESE ARCHIPELAGO.
North they envelope the coasts of Manchuria till the middle of July. Thun-
derstorms arc neither frequent nor violent.
Earthqnakes. — The whole region of the Japanese Islands is Tolcanic, and
many of the eruptions are fraught with extreme danger to ships. At Yedo,
one occurred in August, 1783, exceeding in its horrors and wide-spread deso-
lation that of Lisbon. Another occurred at Yedo on NoTember 10th, 1855,
which is said to have caused the destruction of 100,000 dwellings and 54 i.^ u-
plcs, and the death of 30,000 persons. In 1854 the town of Simoda was re-
duced to ruins. Simabara, in Kiusiu, is also a locality of terrible earthquakes,
one of which is said to have altered the whole feature and coast line of the
neighbouring province.
The Japanese Carrent, or Karo Siwo, as it is called by the Japanese in one
point of its course, is an immense stream which rushes past the southern coasts
of the Japanese Archipelago towards the N.E., and is exactly analogous to the
Gulf Stream in the North Atlantic. It has been observed by every voyager in
these regions ; and, like the Atlantic stream, may be traced to a great distance
to the eastward, and evidences of 'his drift have been frequently found on the
American coast, as in the remains of junks, or of these vessels with their crews
being drifted on to the American territories, as previously related.
But the Pacific current differs from the Atlantic stream in not being confined
in a narrow channel at its outset, and in the strongest part of its course. Hence
its velocity and direction are not so constant, and some great variations in the
current have been experienced, and these, too, without any apparent cause.
Thus there can be no dependance placed on its rate or direction, and inshore it
is certainly controlled or altered by tidal action. In a later part of this work
this remarkable stream will be noticed more at length, in the section specially
I'evoted to currents.
The Japanese Archipelago has never been properly surveyed. Some portions
have been minutely examined, especially the vicinities of the treaty ports where
European commerce has hitherto been allowed. In addition to the surveys
made by the officers of the American squadron in 1853-4, and the British fleet
in 1863, there are various portions derived from the surveys of Commander
J. Ward, R.N., in the Rifleman: of Commanders Brooker and Aldrich, R.N.,
in the Sylvia; of Lieut. Carpenter, R.N., in the Magpie; of Lieut. Hoskyn,
R.N., in the Flying Fish ; and especially of Commander C. Bullock, R.N., in
the Serpent ; and of Oapt. St. John and Lieut. Pearce, R.N., in the Sylvia*
All these and others have been connected together by a most remarkable
* Among the more rccont and numerous books of travel, &c., relating to Japan, we may
mention " New Japan," by Mr. Samuel Mossman, 1873; "Notes and Sketches from tho
Wild Coasts of Nipon," by Capt. H. C. St. John, H.M.8. Sylvia, 1880; "Unloaton Tracks
in Japan," by Miss I. L. Bird, 1880 and 1885; "Japan," by Professor J. J. Rein, 1884, a
ttandard work on tho country and its people ; and "A Handbook for Travellers in Coutrol
aud Nuilheru Jupau," by Mr. £. M. Sutow and Lieut. A. U. S. Uawos, 1884.
%.
'mMs^JjtjmSMmmJltm
ISLAND OF KIUSIU.
783
Thua-
map. During the political negotiations this perfect representation of the empire
was delivered to our representatives, and it was found to be a regular trigo-
nometrical survey of 6 miles to an inch, and so accurate that, when tested by
the surveyors, it was found that very great reliance could be placed on it. Such
a geographical work deserves especial mention.*
The ensuing brief directions are principally taken from those given in the
China Pilot ; and, though belonging to various authors, have been collected,
arranged, and amplified by Commanders C. Bullock and F. W. Jarrad, K.N.
Iliese directions, here much condensed, commence with the southern extremity
of the Archipelago, and, ?^^hough this is a different arrangement to the pre-
ceding portion of this work, it has been followed here, as it is thought more
cuuveuicut than proceeding from the northward.
ISLAND OF KIUSIU.
The word Kiusiu, according to Kosmpfer, signifies " country of nine," in
reference to its division into nine larger provinces. It is about 180 miles in
length North and South, and about SO miles in average breadth. It is separated
from Nipon by the Simonoseki Channel, which at its western entrance is only
about half a mile in width. The strait which separates it from Sikok also is
contracted to 7 miles broad at one point. The Strait of Van Diemen forms its
southern boundary, and the Strait of Corea, or Korai, is on the western side.
VAN DIEMEN STRAIT separates Kiusiu from a group of volcanic islands,
which, extending in a S.S.W. direction, connect this extremity of Japan with
the volcanic ranges of the Philippine Islands, and will be described in a future
Chapter. Nana shima no selo, or Van Diemen Strait, separates Kiusiu Island
from the islands Kuro sima, Iwoga sima. Take sima. Make sima, and Tanega sima,
on the S.W. and South ; it is clear of dangers, and consequently safe, but a
spot of 8 fathoms was reported by H.M.S. Eoebuck, in 1859, to lie about 2^
miles S.S.W. of Satano misaki, the South point of Kiusiu. Making this strait
from the westward, Kuro sima, 2,028 ft. high, the active volcano Iwoga sima,
2,331 ft. high, and the lofty cone-shaped mountain Okaimon dake or Mount
Horner, 3,020 ft. high, on the West side of the entrance to Kagosima Gulf,
• There is a sad story in connexion with this map, which is related in Commodore
Pony's " Narrotive," page 88. The story is thus told by a modern writer on Japan ; " Von
Siobold had been with Colonel Strurler, the Dezima chief, to Yedo ; tho Japanese astrono-
mer, Takahasi Lakutaimon, had, in violation of the law, fvurnished him with a copy of a
recently made map of Japan. The draughtsman who made the copy having become, from
some cause, offended wi^h tho astronomer, denounced him to the authorities. An investi-
gation followed, which lasted a year. Von Sicbold was banished from Japan ; and Tiikn-
hasi, and the draughtsman who accused him, both committed suicide." This occurred prior
to the commencement of thu Americun Expedition iu 1853.
784
THE JAPANESE ARCHIPELAGO.
IM
form conspicuous landmarks. The only drawback to the navigation of this
chanv'el is the heavy weather and thick atmosphere usually met with off
Satano misaki ; the Japan Stream setting strong to E.N.K. through the strait
at all times causes the latter to become a serious disadvantage, which is, how-
ever, somewhat lessened by the light now exhibited on the above cape. Vessels
are cautioned against passing southward of Iwoga sima, as there are detached
rocky shoals and very uneven bottom in that direction.
SATANO MISAKI, or Cape Chichakoff, the southern point of Kiusiu, is
bold and rocky, rising steeply to a wooded range 750 ft. in height, the moun-
tains at the back, from which it is a spur, rising to a considerable elevation,
and culminating in a peak 2,948 ft. high. A small islet lies 1^ cable southward
of the cape, and several detached rocks also lie close around it. This cape is
well known to vessels trading to Japan, and has attained celebrity from the fact
that almost constant bad weather is experienced in its vicinity, violent gales
with a thick murky atmosphere rendering the passage through Van Diemen
Strait at times somewhat perilous. Heavy tide races occur off the cape.
LIOHT. — On the island off the cape is a white iron lighthouse, 32 ft. high,
showing a fixed bright light, elevated 200 ft., and visible 21 miles seaward
between N.E. by E. i E. and N.W. by N. ^ N., through East, South, and
West. Lat. 30° 58' 30" N., long. 130° 40' E.
At 5 miles northward of Satano misaki is Talsume no hana, a bold and rocky
point, 1} mile N.E. of which is a small bay, in which anchorage may be ob-
tained in 12 to 13 fathoms. About 2 miles beyond this is another indentation,
with anchorage in 9 to 10 fathoms, sand, the best anchorage in this locality.
KAOOSIMA OULF is an arm of the sea, 35 miles in length, and from 5 to
10 miles in breadth, running in a northerly direction into the southern part of
Kiusiu. It is surrounded by high mountains, except to the North. Kami se,
a rock awash at low water, lies in the middle of the entrance, at 4 miles N.N. W.
from Tatsume no hana. At 25 miles within its entrance the large inhabited
island of Sakura, 3,636 ft. high, and 4 to 5 miles in diameter, nearly fills the
head of the gulf, with deep channels on both sides leading into an inner gulf,
or spacious harbour, 6 miles by 9, and quite landlocked.
Yama gawa, a small harbour on the West side of the entrance to the gulf,
is the crater of an extinct volcano. Its North part opens East to the sea by a
funnel-shaped passage a quarter of a mile in length, but only 1^ cable wide tit
its inner part, formed between a shoal bank extending 1 mile from the South
shore, and a reef extending 3^ cables from the North shore. There is 3f to 4^
fathoms over the bar, with a patch of 2 fathoms in the centre. No vessel
should attempt to enter in bad weather, although a vessel of 1,000 tons may
lie there at anchor, or moored to the shore. Inside the harbour the water is
deep. Supplies of fish, fowls, and fruit may be procured from the inhabitants
It is high water, on full and change, at 7'" 32"" ; springs rise 9J ft.
Kasa she, or IVatars Rock, two dangerous sunken rocks, the outer of 2J ft..
^ . ———»,—=
KIUSIU ISLAND— KAGOSIMA.
785
nnd the inner of 9 ft. water, lie close together, E. J N., 7 cables from Oo saki,
the North entrance point of Yama gawa, with a depth of 6 fathoms between.
At 4 miles northward of Oo saki is Tsiring sima, nearly a mile from the
West shore, with which it is connected by a reef; it is from 150 to 200 feet,
high. On the eastern shore, opposite. Racehorse Shoal extends about 2} miles
ofiF, leaving a passage about 3 miles wide. From hence the gulf extends 17
miles northward to Sakura Island, with a breadth of about 10 miles.
In the southern part of the channel westward of Sakura is Kami she, or
Parker Shoal, dry at low water ; temporary anchorage may be obtained on its
S.W. side. A fort stood on this shoal in 1863. Okiko and Karasu Islands
lie close off the S.W. and West part of Sakura. Several islets and rocks lio
off the N.E. side.
KAGOSIMA. — On the western shore, facing Sakura, stands the city of
Kagosima, formerly the fortress of the Daimio, Prince of Satsuma. Battery
Point, to the South of the city, is low, and has a spit extending from and
around it to 2 cables, very steep at its edge ; a shoal also fills the bay North
of this point. Off the centre of Kagosima, in front of the Daimio's castle, is
an inner harbour or iurge camber, gained by entrances between five forts of
masonry, which have deep water close up to them ; this castle cannot be seen
from the gulf. There is a cannon-shot foundry here, worked by Japanese, and
the town is in telegraphic communication with Nagasaki.
Two small rivers disembogue, one on the North side of the city with long
spits off its points of entrance ; the other, flowing through the southern part
of the city, falls into the shallow bay just North of Battery Point.
Light. — On the North end of the breakwater fronting Ben-ten Fort, tajised
red light, elevated 45 ft., and visible 6 miles, is shown from a staff.
Anchorage. — The extreme depth of the water in the gulf renders anchorage
anywhere very difficult ; the fleet found indifferent anchorage close to the
beach on the western shore, near the Seven Rocks, 4 or 5 miles South of
Kagosima.
The western shore of Sakura is very bold, but anchorage in from 12 to 25
fathoms may be found E. i N. of the castle of Kagosima, very close in. In an
easterly gale there is danger of driving off the bank into very deep water, and
having to slip the cables. Anchorage also may be obtained generally in the
southern part of the channel, in from 21 to 24 fathoms. At the head of the
gulf on the small bank off Hamaichi, and North of Ko sima or Havock Islands,
there is anchorage in from 7 to 9 fathoms.
The COAST for 140 miles to the north-eastward, comprising the whole of
the East coast of Eausiu is comparatively unknown. The land is generally high
and wooded.
Odomari Bay, 2 miles eastward of Satano misaki, has an average width of 3
cables, and affords excellent shelter, for only two steam vessels, from northerly
North Facific. 5 h
786
THE JAPANESE ARCHIPELAGO.
1 1 1
and north-westerly winds. A few fowls may occasionally be obtained from the
village. Kanon Saki, in 3P 10' N., is a bold headland, projecting slightly fi'om
the general line of the coast.
He saki, a prominent, bare point, 786 ft. high, is about 10^ miles N.E. oi
Kanon saki, and at 12 miles farther is Toi no misaki, a steep, bluff headland,
982 ft. high, with three remarkable knobs of trees on its summit, as seen from
the N.E. Several detached rocks lie off it. It is proposed to erect a light-
house on this point. Between these two points is the entrance of Ariaki no
wa, or Taaman Bay, which extends about 11 miles to N.W., but affords no
protection from winds between South and East ; excellent shelter may be ob-
tained from hard northerly and westerly gales any wjtiei-e off the N.W. shore, in
5 to 7 fathoms.
Osprey Breakers, reported, in 1864, in lat. 31° 27' N., long. 131° 40' E.,have
not since been seen. It is believed that they were caused by the current over-
fall.
Abnratsu Harbour, about 13 miles N. by E. of Toi no misnki, is the only
safe anchorage on the S.E. coast of Kiusiu. It is formed by Oo sima, and
may be entered by vessels of any size either northward or southward of that
island. Vessels of moderate size can anchor in 3^ to 4 fathoms off the town ;
large vessels can anchor in 9 to 10 fathoms, half a mile westward of the North
part of Oo sima.
LIOHTHOTJSE.— On the South point of Oo sima is a white lighthouse, 32
feet high, showing a bright light, revolving every half minute, elevated 287 ft.,
and visible 24 miles, between N. by E. and N.W. by N. (315°).
Kay eta or To saki, or Cape Cochrane, in lat. 31° 47', is a low hilly point,
terminating in a wooded knob 290 ft. high. Rocks extend off the coast be-
tween it and Abaratsu, and a reef extends 3 cables N.E. of the cape. Nelly
Rocks (Odo no se), reported, in 1863, by the British barque of that name, have
1 to 3 fathoms water over them, and extend three-quarters of a mile North and
South ; their central part being 3J miles East of Cape Cochrane. The coast
from Kayeta saki to Kuma sima, a distance of 38 miles, is a nearly straight
sandy beach, broken only by the mouths of a few rivers.
Kuma sima or Hoso sima Harbour, in lat. 32° 23', is a secure and well
sheltered anchorage for a large number of vessels. It is a narrow creek, the
entrance open to the N.E., and extending about a mile to its head. During
typhoons the winds at East and S.E. are usually the strongest ; Hoso sima
Harbour would thus afford shelter during the season when those storms occur.
A vessel in distress might safely be beached at the head of the bay. Anchorage
may be obtained in 6 fathoms immediately on opening out the village.
From hence the coast trends to the N.E. by N. to Sura saki, a bold bluff,
the eastern point of Kiusiu. Here the coast turns to N.N.W. to Sagano saki,
the N.E. point of Kiusiu. All this coast is much indented, and off its northern
part lie numerous islands. Inokushi Harbour, in lat. 32° 46', long. 131° 55',
TEE SOUTH COAST OF SIKOK.
787
18 said to be a secure anchorage in all weathers. Idi lima Harbour, a per-
fectly secure anchorage in 32° 59' N., lies between O Idi sima and the mainland,
with 8 fathoms, mud bottom. Sagano saki is a nearly detached mass of land,
triangular in shape, and 650 ft. high, with a village on the narrow neck con-
necting it with the main land. Numerous islets and rocks lie off the coast.
The SOUTH COAST of SIKOK, from Isa saki at the eastern entrance to
the Boungo Channel, to I sima at the western entrance to the Kii Channel, is
also as yet unsurvcyed. This coast is about 150 miles in extent, and is divided
by the projecting peninsula, of which Murato saki is the extreme point, into
two bights, that to the westward being the deeper. It is very broken in out-
line, with several deep indentations.
Isa saki, the southern extreme of Sikok, is a bluff headland, at the ex-
tremity of a peninsula having two peaks about 1,500 ft. high. Simidsu is an
excellent landlocked harbour, for small vessels, 4 miles N.W. of Isa saki, with
a depth of 5 to 6 fathoms.
Sasaki and Nomi Harbours. — The coast of Sikok, between Ootzu saki and
Ko sima no hana, forms a deep bight Z^ miles wide, and 4 miles in depth,
forming two inlets extending to the nortbward and eastward, in which are the
villages of Susaki and Nomi. Susaki is situated on the western low shore of
the northern inlet, in which is excellent sheltered anchorage. The eastern
shore of the inlet is steep-to, and should be kept on board. The usual an-
chorage is in 7 fathoms, with the low point of Susaki bearing S.W. i S. The
battery just below the temples is in lat. 33" 23' 18" N., long. 133" 17' 48" E.
Nomi Harbour, the eastern inlet, is secure and spacious, formed between
two peninsulas, the southern one having several islands and ro'iks off it. The
western chain, of which Naka no sima and Hey sima are the largest, }>rotect8
the anchorage, which is in 10 fathoms, 2^ cables off the village, fronr southerly
winds. Vessels entering either harbour should pass about half p. mile west-
ward of Hey sima, and in entering Nomi Harbour should koep the northern
shore on board. The southern chain of islets and rocks extends to the wooded
islet Ko sima in a S.S.E. direction. A rock, which uncovers, lies If cable
south-westward of Ko sima ; another at 3^ cables from its South point ; and
Breaker Rock, which uncovers at low water, lies S. by W. J W., IJ mile
from it.
Ura-no-TTtsi, 9 miles eastward of Nomi, is barred across the entrance by a
sand-bank. Some shelter may be obtained in S.W. winds, in 4 to 8 fathoms.
Wurato or Kotsi Inlet has a narrow and difficult entrance, but vessels of 15
feet draught may enter at springs. The outer anchorage, in 7 fathoms, sand,
cannot be recommended. On the South point of entrance, in lat. 33° 30' N.,
long. 133° 36' E., is a white lighthouse, 31 ft. high, showing a. Jixed bright
light, elevated 102 ft., and visible 10 miles, between N.W. J N. and S.W. by
8. i S. (247°), but obscured by land between N. 24° E. and N. 29° E.
B0T7NOO CHANNEL, which separates the islands Kiusiu and Sikok, and
m
il
I
1
II
t I
I 1 1
788
THE JAPANESE ARCHIPELAGO.
is the S.W. entrance to the Seto Uohi, is from 7 to 20 miles broad, and its shores
are singularly broken into projecting peninsulas. It was passed by Keompfer
and Thunberg, and they speak of the thousands of islands with which it is en-
cumbered. The allied squadron, under Admiral Sir A. L. Kuper, entered it in
August and September, 1864, and found it free from danger, and the Japanese
charts correct. Caution, however, is requisite in approaching the shores.
During spring tides the stream often sets through the northern entrance with
great velocity (6 knoto), and then during the flood stream, which makes to the
northward, a heavy tide-race forms off Mi saki.
Okino lima, a large island forming the eastern point of the Sotlfh entrance
to this channel, is 1,150 ft. high, and may be seen in clear weather at 35 miles.
To the northward of it, also towards Hima sima and towards the main land to
the eastward, the space appeared to be rocky foul ground.
Midzu-no-ko or Eoryalns Sook, named after H.M.S. Euryalua, is a small
rocky islet, 60 ft. high, lying in the middle of Boungo Channel, 25 miles N.W.
of Okino sima. It is surrounded by rocky shoals, some abo>.. water, to the dis-
tance of half a mile. It occupies a most excellent position for a lighthouse.
Takanaba, the island lying nearly in the middle of the northern entrance of
the channel, has two small rocks above water, at 2 cables N.W. of it, and reefs
extend nearly half a mile off in several places. The passage on the West side,
between it and Sagano saki, is encumbered with reefs, but the eastern passage
is free from danger. Mi saki, the narrow sharp point terminating the remark-
able peninsula which forms the western point of Sikok, is 150 ft. high, and has
off it two small islets.
THE SETO UOHI OR INLAND SEA.
The great Inland Sea of Japan, called by the Japanese Seto Uchi (Inner
Strait), is enclosed between the S.W. coast of Nipon, which entirely bounds it
on the North and East, and the Islands of Kiusiu and Sikok, which bound it
on the West and South. It extends somewhat in an East and West direction,
240 miles in length, with a breadth varying from 3 to 30 miles. It has six
divisions called nadas or seas, taking their names generally from the provinces,
the coasts of which they wash ; thus, the western part of the sea, as far as the
Boungo Channel, is called the Suwo nada ; and, proceeding East, we have in
succession, lyo nada, Misima nada. Bingo nada, Harima nada, and, lastly,
Isumi nada, sometimes called the Gulf of Oosaka.
The Seto Uchi was first navigated by H.M.S. Cruizer, in 1859, and it was
passed throughout by the allied fleet under Admiral Sir A. L. Kuper, in 1864.
It contains upwards of 300 islands and rocks, with numerous shoals nnd dan-
gers, and has a sea-board of nearly 700 miles, on which are situated numerous
villages ond large towns, and several of the provincial capitals. It abounds
with safe and convenient anchorages, and communicates with the Pacific by
I, and its shorca
I by Ksompfer
which it is en-
r, entered it in
d the Japanese
ig the shores,
entrance with
h makes to the
SoUfh entrance
ler at 35 miles,
le main land to
alui, is a small
25 miles N.W.
iter, to the dis-
i lighthouse.
;rn entrance of
of it, and reefs
the West side,
'astern passage
Dg the remark-
. high, and has
Uchi (Inner
irely bounds it
ivhich bound it
kVest direction,
!8. It has six
the provinces,
a, as far as the
St, we have in
a, and, lastly,
59, and it was
[uper, in 1864.
loals nnd dan-
lated numerous
i. It abounds
the Pacific by
r
^
^
1
^ ^ «
5 h
- ©
■^ J »
«t
c
1
■^ ^
.^
O ?^ a
3
r-
^' f^
s ^
^
s
t=l
'S
^
■
'g
1 1
1 !
^
^hLc
?5- 1
^ X
*» 1
« ft
».\
^1^ wf»
V
Fv,^'
rj
B. S" '■/
'A
^>.?'.
Y
1 ?
-! 1
— '
- s
,,.
1 J 1
4/
1 " i
^'•
^ 1
v^
y.
'H- ,
"*' i
II "
r
r , -
/
■*
-
-Ik
J
SETO UCIII-WESTERN FNTRANCE.
789
Kii Channel on the East, and by Doungo Channel, between Kiusin and Rilcok,
on the South ; and with the Sea of Japan by the Strait of Simonoseki on the
West. There is a great maritime trade along its po,;,'ilous shores, as well as
the through traffic to Oiisaka, one of the chief seats of commerce of the empire,
and the seaport of its ancient capital, Miako.
The Scto Uchi can be navigated with safety at all seasonn of the year, and
even under favourable circumstances during the night, the more particularly
now that it is lighted and a correct chart of it has been published. In winter,
when westerly gales are so prevalent, sailing vessels would probably gain time
liy tiding through this sea, rather than by endeavouring to beat round Satano
misaki.
Snppliei. — Water, of excellent quality, can be procured almost at any an-
chorage, and fowls and fish can be obtained at the villages. A very destructive
species of moUusk inhabits the Seto Uchi, and might prove very injurious to
ships' bottoms.
Tides. — The tides and currents of the Seto Uchi are fairly well known. The
tide vave comes from the Pacific by Kii and Uoungo Channels ; from the latter
it branches East and West, meeting the Kii Channel tide at about Awa sima,
in ' )ng. 133° 38' E., at the eastern entrance of the Bingo nnda.
The WESTERN ENTRANCE to the Seto Uchi is at its outer part 35 miles
across, being formed by the West coast of Nipon running South for 25 miles
from Kado sima, and the North coast of Kiusiu taking an easterly direction
for the same distance, from Wilson Island. At the angle where these coasts
meet within 3 miles is the large island Hiku sima, South of which is the fair-
way and entrance to the Strait of Simonoseki.
Kosime no oosima, or Wilson Island, 3 miles off the coast, and 2 miles
W.S.W. from Koko sima, is remarkable from its prominent position off the
entrance to the Inland Sea. It is flat, 6 miles in circumference, and surmounted
by a clump of trees, the highest part being elevated 854 ft., and visible in clear
weather 30 miles. A large fishing village lies on its eastern shore between
two rooky points, off which rocks extend for nearly a mile. Serpent Rock,
with 6 ft. on it at low water, lies immediately off the village, and nearly 1 mile
from the North point of the island. A rock, with less than 6 ft. on it, lies
half a mile from the N.E. point, with Hound Rock bearing E. by 8. i S., distant
14 cables. A shoal extends eastward of the S.E. point, with 3 fathoms on its
outer end, at a distance of 6 cables.
Koko sima, 600 ft. high, lies 2 miles E.N.E. from Wilson Island, the channel
between having a depth of 5 to 12 fathoms. PVom its S.E. point a long stony
spit extends nearly to the land. There is anchorage on both sides of it.
Bound Rock, 30 ft. high, lies 7^ cables to N.W. A rocky patch of 15 ft. lies
E. i N., 3J miles from the North point, with the outer high peak of Kiusiu
(1,900 ft.) bearing S. by W. i W., 3i miles. The clump on Wilson Island,
kept open of the North point of Koko sima, leads northward of it.
II
'I't
i
;i ! ;
no
THE JAPANESE ARCHIPELAGO.
From Kanega saki, abreast of Kokn sima, the coast trends E.N.E., 8J miles,
to Iwaya Point, the western point of the approach to Simonoseki Strait. As
this part has not been very closely examined, gieat caution is necessary in
approaching it.
Siro lima, — These two islands, 6 cables apart, and each half a mile long,
lie W. by N. J N., 16 miles, from the outer point of Wilson Island. The N.E.
island, 447 ft. high, with a wooded summit of rounded outline, has two high
rocks off its rugged North point, and a shoal spit running 4 cables off its South
point. The S. W. island is indented, its eastern sharp peak being 282 ft. high ;
there is shoal water off its South point, but its West point is steep-to. A rocky
shoal extends IJ mile S. by E. of the eastern point. A rocky patch with less
than 2 fathoms on it, half a mile long East and West, lies S, by E. 3 miles from
the eastern sharp peak, and W. by N. | N. 2J miles from Iwaya Point.
Iwaya Point, low and rocky, with projecting ledges, is about 5 miles S.S.W.
of Siro sima, at the termination of a sandy bay 5 miles wide. A conspicuous
wooded hill, 1,100 ft. high, with a round gap in its summit, rises 5 miles
S.W. by W. i W. of the point.
Eastward of Iwaya Point the shore is generally low and skirted with ledges,
but the back ranges are from 2,000 to 4,000 ft. high. The shore of Nipon is
higher, but its hill ranges are lower.
Masui sima, or Notch Island, lies 6 miles N.E. by N. of North Siro sima,
and 3 miles from the shore of Nipon, off Cape Morotzu, the hills over which
are 1,000 ft. high. The channel between is free from known danger. The
northern part of this island is a triple-topped bluff, 900 ft. high ; on the West
coast, about the middle, there is a rery sharp peak. A Bmall rook lies 1 mile
E.S.E. of the South bluff.
Ai-no lima, or Flat Island, 6 miles S. by E. from Masui sima, is a flat island,
84 ft. high, coyered with trees, and 1 mile in length. Reefs, dry or sunken,
extend about 1 mile northward off its North point, their northern extremity
being marked by a conical red buoy, bearing a cage, moored in 5 fathoms. A
spit runs 5^ cables southward of the South point ; foul ground also extends 8
cables E.N.E. of this point, at 7 cables distant marked by a small square rock.
Lighthouse. — Shirasu, or Low Reef, lying 1 J mile S.W. of Ai-no sima, is
nearly 6 cables in extent. North and South, and near its South end is a light-
house, 48 ft. high, painted in black and white bands, from which is shown a
fxed red light, elevated 44 ft., and visible 10 miles.
Boktireii Island, or Mntsure, 2 miles S.E. by E. of Ai-no sima, has on its
table land a large and conspicuous clump of trees, 340 ft. above the sea, which
is visible after rounding Wilson Island, when it will bear about E. ^ N. A
spit extends 2 cables from the North point. The U-ma sima group of islets
and rocks lies to the S.W. of Rokurcn, a shoal bank joining them.
LIGHTHOUSE. — On the East extreme of Rokureu is a granite lighthouse,
84 ft. high, showing a. fixed bright light, elevated 89 ft., and visible 12 miles,
SETO UCHI— THE STEAIT OF SIMONOSEKI.
.791
.E., 8J mile?,
i Strait. As
necessary in
f a mile long,
i. TheN.E.
las two high
I off its South
282 ft. high ;
)-to. A rocky
itch with less
3 miles from
Point.
miles S.S.W.
. conspicuous
rises 5 miles
I with ledges,
: of Nipon is
th Siro sima,
t over which
danger. The
on the West
3k lies 1 mile
n a flat island,
7 or sunken,
;m extremity
fathoms. A
Iso extends 8
I square rock.
Li-no sima, is
ad is a light-
1 is shown a
la, has on its
ho sea, which
t E. i N. A
roup of islets
1.
:c lighthouse,
ble 12 miles,
between N.W. J N. (leading half a mile North of the shoal ground North of
Ai-no sima) and S. by W. J W., through North, East, and South.
HIKU SIMA, lying at the western entrance of Simonoseki Strait, is 3 miles
in extent North and South, and has a smooth green hill, 365 ft. high, on its
North point. Its western point. Cape Skikttis, is a low rocky promontory,
with an island off it, which, as dangers extend a quarter of a mile off it, should
not be approached nearer than 4 cables. Its S.W. point, Entrance Head, is a
wooded bluf)!, 372 ft. high. The island is separated from Nipon by a narrow
shallow channel, named Kosedo Strait.
Light. — A. fixed bright light is occasionally shown about two-thirds up the
hill, on tho North point of entrance to Fuku-ura, a small shallow harbour near
th(3 South end of the island.
There is a small anchoinge on the S.E. side of Masui sima. There is an-
chorago also along the .Nfipon shore, .East of Ai-no sima and Rokuren, in 7 and
9 fathoms, but the coast should not be approached within half a mile, as it is
fringed with reefs; northward of this the reefs extend a mile off shore. If,
however, there be sufficient daylight to get round Ilokuren, it is recommended
to do 80 instead of anchoring outside for the night, and bring-to on tho bank
half a mile South of the U-ma sima group, in 6 or 7 fathoms. There is also
anchorage in 8 to 10 fathoms, eastward of Eamo Bank. Directions are given
hereafter.
It is high water at the western entrance of Simonoseki Strait, on full and
change, at 9'' 0"' ; springs rise about 4 ft., neaps 1| foot.
The STRAIT of SIMONOSEKI, commencing at Entrance Head, the S.W.
point of Hiku sima, is 7 miles in length, with a navigable channel varying from
3 to 7 cables in breadth, but the entrances arc encumbered with sand-banks.
It was surveyed by Capt. St. John, H.M.S. Sylvia, 1872-5. The town of Si-
monoseki stands on the Nipon shore, 4 miles within the entrance.
Hiku Flat, 1 mile W.N.VV, of Entrance Head, is a bank of sandstone rock
8 cables long, and 3 cables broad, with 13 ft. water on it. A red huoy, bear-
ing a cage, lies in 9 fathoms, 8 cables N.W. J W. from Manaita Rocks beacon.
Kokura Ledije is a flat of sand and rock, with shoal patches on it, fronting
the low shore of Kiusiu, South of Hiku sima, where stands the town ot Kokura
on a small stream called Ogawa. The flat extends from 1 to 2 miles ofl' shore.
Hamo Bank, of 3 J to 5 fathoms, lies 4 cables N.E. of Hiku Flat, and extends
6 cables N.W. and S.E., forming a channel 3 cables wide between it and the
shoal bank extenduig from Hiku sima.
Manaita Rocks, lying nearly 2 cables South of Entrance Head, imcover
towards low water, and are marked by a conical beacon, 20 ft. high, painted in
black and white rings, and surmounted by a ball. Narusi Rock, a quarter of
a mile S.W. of Kibuuc Point, the S.E. point of Hiku sima, and IJ cable off
shore, uncovers before half ebb, and is also marked by a white conical beacon,
20 ft. high, surmounted by a pcnr-slmped top.
I t 'I
THE JAPANESE ARCHIPELAGO.
Yodsibi Rock lies 4J cables E.N.E. of Kibune Point, and is best avoided by
bugging tbc Hiku sima shore. It only shows at low tide, and is marked by a
conical red beacon, 30 ft. high. It may be passed on either side, but the
western channel is the wider.
SIMONOSEKI, or Shimonosakl, is an important town from its position at
the entrance of the Inland Sea. It is formed of a single principal street run-
ning for nearly 2 miles at the base of some low steep hills along the shore of
Nipon. Its most conspicuous buildings arc the telegraph and custom houses,
the latter recognized by its tall white gables.
Supplies of beef, vegetables, and fruit can be obtained at moderate prices.
The coal, which is much used here in the forging of nails, was of the worst
possible description, and gave 75 per cent, of ash and earthy matter. Water
of excellent quality was brought off in buckets in large boats. The Japan Mail
Company's steamers call here weekly.
To anchor off the town, take a position well below the custom-house, in 6 to
10 fathoms, out of the tides, which are very rapid through the narrows, with
strong eddies along the shore during the western stream.
Tides. — It is high water at Simonoseki, on full and change, at S*" 30" ;
springs rise 8 ft., neaps 6 ft. The western or flood stream makes at 2J hours
before high water, the eastern stream 2 J hours after high water, so that the
western stream continues 5 hours, and the eastern 7 hours.
Off Mozi saki the velocity at springs is 7 to 8 knots, at neaps 3 to 4 knots ;
the current is at its full strength for 3 hours of each tide. There are heavy
overfalls in the eastern part of the strait at springs.
The Eastern Entrance to Simonoseki Strait lies between I saki and Kusi
saki, 2 J miles apart ; but it is divided into three channels by two extensive
sand-banks, named Middle Ground and Tano Bank.
LIOHTHOnSE. — / saki, the eastern promontory of the North point of
Kiusiu, may be passed at a distance of 2 cables. On its extremity is a granite
lighthouse, 30 ft. high, from which is exhibited & fixed \\<^h.i, elevated 122 ft.,
and visible 16 miles; it shows rec/ from W. by N., through North and East,
to S.E. f E., and bright thence, over deep water, to S. i W.
Ensi saki, the North point of entrance, has a reef extending 1 to 1^ cable
off it. To the north-eastward is the village of Toyo, and the ruins of the large
military station of Chofn. Kanziu and Manziu are two wooded islands, 6J
cables and li mile respectively, E. by N. of Kusi saki. Eanziu is low and flat,
with some rocks off its South point. Manziu is 198 ft. high.
Midway between Kusi saki and I saki, the Middle Ground, a bank of sand,
extends If mile East and West ; it is from a half to 3 cables in width, with
from 1 to 3 fathoms on it. This bank divides the strait into two channels,
that to the northward carrying the deepest water. A red buoy, with a cage,
is moored in 3 fathoms on the western patch, 4|^ cables from the West extreme,
with Kusi saki bearing N.W. by N. \ N., distant I mile ; and I saki light-
SETO UCHI— SIMONOSEKI STRAIT.
793
is best avoided by
nd is marked by a
ther side, but the
rom its position at
incipal street run-
long the shore of
id custom houses,
t moderate prices,
was of the worst
y matter. Water
The Japan Mail
tom-house, in 6 to
he narrows, with
inge, at 8^ 30";
lakes at 2i hours
'ater, so that the
3 to 4 knots ;
There are heavy
1 1 saki and Kusi
by two extensive
North point of
'mity is a granite
elevated 122 ft.,
North and East,
g 1 to li cable
uins of the large
aded islands, 6^
11 is low and flat,
a bank of sand,
in width, with
• two channels,
•y, with a cage,
; West extreme,
d I saki light-
I
I
i
house S.E. by S. J S., 14 cables. A black buoy, with a cage, is moored in 3
fathoms, southward of the eastern patch, and 3 cables westward of the eastern
edge of the shoal, with ! saki lighthouse bearing S. i W., distant 1 mile, and
Kusi saki N.W. j W., l-J mile.
laiiu Bank has from 2} to 4 fathoms on it. Its western extreme lies 5
cables E. ^ N. from Mozi saki, and thence it extends eastward nearly a mile,
dividing the channel southward of Middle Ground into two channels, neither
of which is to be preferred to the channel North of Middle Ground. Anchorage
in 5 fathoms may be found on the North side of the bank, well clear of the
tide-race.
Eanabuse, or Fisherman Rock, lies northward of Tano Bank, and 1 1 cables
N.E. by E. l E. from Mozi saki ; it is 120 yards long N. by W. and S. by E.,
has only 4 ft. on its southern end, 12 ft. on its northern end, and 5 fathoms
between at low water. A buoy, painted in black and white rings, carrying a
cage, is moored in 9 fathoms, half a cable South of the southern rock, with
Mozi saki bearing S.W. by W. ^ W., distant IJ mile.
The North Channel, northward of Middle Ground, is, with the exception of
the Kanabuse, clear of danger. The Middle Channel, between Middle Ground
and 'J'ano liank, carries 4 fathoms at low water springs. Hino yama, a con-
spicuous triple peak, 933 ft. high, opposite Mozi saki, kept bearing W. J N.
until the clump of trees on Take saki, the South point of the town, comes in
line with Mozi saki, leads through. This channel is well marked by buoys.
The South Channel, southward of Tano Bank, is the narrowest, although the
tides here are not so strong. It has a least depth of 5^ fathoms.
Mozi saki is the extreme of a promontory at the North end of Kiusiu, and
the strait is narrowed to 3 cables between this point and the eastern end
of the town. Immediately over it is a hill, 583 ft. high, with some tall trees
on its summit. A telegraph cable is hero laid across the strait, its position
being marked by buoys and beacons. The tide runs with great velocity.
Whit shed Bay, on the South side of Mozi saki, affords good anchorage in 5
to 7 fathoms, with Mozi saki and Observation Point in line, or n little open,
bearing North ; and Mozi village bearing East. Here the heavy ships of the
allied fleet, under Admiral Kuper, anchored after the reduction of the batteries
in September, 1864 ; but it is stated to be only suitable for vessels of moderate
draught. An extensive shoal of 3 to 4 fathoms fills up the whole of the southern
and outer part of the bay.
Directions. — Great caution is necessary in passing through Simonosoki Strait.
It is recommended that vessels should anchor, if the tide be not favourable on
arrival at either entrance, and they should pass through the strait as near the
time of slack water as possible.
If bound to Simonoseki from the westward, pass about 1 mile North of
Wilson Island, and steer E. by N. ^ N. for the North point of North Siro sima,
North Facijic, 5 I
im
■■'&
r*-l
I
If
794
THE JAPANESE ARCHIPELAGO.
!'!
which pass at half a mile ; then steer East, taking care not to bring the North
point of North Siro sima to the northward of West, till the centre of Ai-no
sima bears South, or llokureu lighthouso opens out S.E. J S., or at night until
the light is sighted, so as to clear the reefs off the North point of Ai-no sima,
marked by a buoy.
The Southern Channel is not recommended. It only shortens the distance 4
miles, and requires the large scale chart as a guide. To the S.E. of Shirasu
there is a depth of 2 to 2^ fathoms in it.
After passing the buoy North of Ai-no sima, steer to S.E., with the smooth
hill on Hiku sima in line with the North extreme of Kokuvcn, S.E. i S. ; or,
by night, when the light is sighted, bearing S.E. I S., steer for it. Hound
llokuren at about half a mile distant, and keep the lighthouse bearing between
N. i E. and N. by E. J E., and when Entrance Head is seen in line with the
peak, 1,261 ft. high, immediately S.W. from Clump Hill, 1,778 ft., bearing
S.E. f S., steer for it. These marks kept on will lead 4 cables westward of
Cape Sieikuts, and to abreast the Hiku Flat buoy ; whence, by keeping the
East extreme of Kanasaki sima in line, astern, with Cape Sizikuts, N.W. by
N. 1^ N., the vessel will pass between Hiku Flat and Hnmo Bank, and 1 J cable
westward of Manaita Rock. Continue on this leading mark a little pasi, the
beacon until the " Rocky Eminence," a peak, 1,193 ft. high, on the eastern
shore, is in line with Kibune Point, E. by N. | N., when alter course to
E. by S., and when Mozi saki is open of Kibune Point, N.E. } N., steer
N.E. J E. towards Yodsibi Rock beacon, which will lead past Narusi Rock to
abreast of Kibune Point.
From Kibune Poinl ji.2er towards Hino yaraa, bearing N.E. by N. J N., up
to abreast of the town, and when Kusi saki is seen open of Mozi saki, the
vessel's course may be altered to pass in mid-channel off Mozi saki.
After passing Mozi saki, to pass through the North Channel, steer to the
eastward, with that point in line with the clump of trees on Take saki, W. by
S. i S., astern, which will lead North of 'lano Rank, and 1 cable southward of
Fisherman Rock buoy, from abreast of which steei- towards the centre of
Manziu, N.E. by E. ^ E ; and when I saki lighthouse is seen in line with the
western buoy of Middle Ground, S.E. by S. J S., alter course to E. J N., with
Hino yama bearing W. | S., which will lead North of Middle Grovmd in not
loss than 8 fathoms. When the centre of Manziu bears N. by W. ]jj W., steer
S. by E. J E., which will lead eastward of Middle Ground in about 6 fathoms,
close to shoal water on the eastern side.
When I saki lighthouse bears N.W. | W., haul to the south-eastward into
the Inland Sea ; and at night keep the bright light in sight to avoid the shoal
gi'ound off Moto yama.
The Middle Channel is most generally used, as it is well buoyed. After
passing Mozi saki, steer, as before directed, to the eastward, with Mozi saki in
line with the clump of trees on Take saki, astern, W. by S, } S., and when
\
I ' I
f
.■ag«Sw5^5 EittSgai .B iaa a55
'■■ p ". ■.uuii'iatamtmM
SETO UCni— THE SUWO NADA.
795
iring the North
entre of Ai-no
r at night until
of Ai-no sima,
the distance 4
).£. of Shiiasu
ith the smooth
S.E. i S. ; or,
for it. Round
earing between
n line with the
78 ft., bearing
es westward of
>y keeping the
kuts, N.W. by
ik, and 1 J cable
little pask, the
on the eastern
alter course to
E. i N., steer
Narusi Rock to
by N. i N., up
Mozi saki, the
saki.
lel, steer to the
ike saki, W. by
le southward of
,s the centre of
n line with the
E. ^ N., with
Ground in not
W. i W., steer
bout 6 fathoms,
Li-eastward into
avoid the shoal
buoyed. After
th Mozi saki in
■ S., and when
abreast of Fisherman Bock buoy, steer towards the eastern Middle Ground
buoy, E. i N., until I saki lighthouse bears S.E. by S., when alter course to
S.E. i E. to abreast of the lighthouse; when bring it to bear N.W. f W.,
astern, and proceed into the Inland Sea.
For proceeding through Simonoseki Strait from the eastward the above
directions should be reversed.
The ensuing directions for the Seto Uchi are abbreviated from those drawn
up by Commanders C. Bullock and F. "W. Jarrad, R.N. They can only be
used in connection with the chart (Admiralty chart, No. 2875), which is com-
posed from the Japanese Government map before referred to, with subsequent
corrections by European officers. The intricate nature of the navigation cannot
here be verbally described.
The SUWO NADA, the western division of the Seto Uchi, is bounded on
the North by the provinces of Suwo and Nagato in Nipon, on the South by the
province of Buzen in Kiusiu, and on the East by Himc sima. It is about 40
miles in length East i.nd West, and the depth is not too great for anchorage.
Moto yama, the promontory about 7 miles eastward of Simonoseki Strnit,
has a long point terminating in a perpendicular bluff, with several clumps of
trees on it. A shoal bank extends 5J miles S.E. J S. from the point, its
southern limit marked by a red buoy bearing a cage, in 5J fathoms. Cape
Imagaica, 10} miles W.S.W. of Moto yama, terminates in a bluff point.
Hime sima is 3} miles long East and West, with a conspicuous sugar-loaf
peak 885 ft. high. Nisi ura, a bay at its N.W. end, affords good anchorage
in to 14 fathoms, sand, with easterly winds between E.N.E. and South.
Aliiiatne ura, on its S.W. side, is sheltered from northerly winds between
W.N.W. and N.E., with anchorage in 4J to 8 fathoms. The tides are strong
here, and the holding ground bad.
In the entrances of lunnage and Nisinaka Bays, on the coast S.W. of Himc
sima, there is anchorage in 6 to 6 fathoms, mud. JVaga saki, westward of
these bays, has a wooded rock off it, and a clump of trees on its perpendicular
extremity.
Iwami sima, in the eastern part of this sea, has a cone-shaped island east-
ward of it, which may be passed close on the S.W. Uwa sima, 3 miles to the
8.W., is small, with a cluster of rocks off the S.W. side.
Directions. — To pass through the Suwo Nada, from I saki, steer S.E. J- E.
10 miles, or until the promontory of Moto yama bears North. An E. by S. } S.
course may then be kept for 26 miles, which will lead 1 J mile North of Ilime
sima, and continuing 22 miles farther on the same course will lead 1 J mile
South of Ya sima, which may be rounded at a mile. Allowance must be made
for the tide.
In passing through the Inland Sea, as it is generally necessary to anchor at
night, so it is important that as many convenient anchorages ns possible should
be indicated along the route. Among tho,sc in the Suwo Nada are the follow*
mm
796
THE JAPANESE ARCHIPELAGO.
ing: — In 5 to 8 fathoms for 10 miles south-eastward of the strait, or about the
southern edge of the Motoyama Shoals. In 5^ fathoms, muddy bottom, at
MHazidi, in about lot. 34° N., long. 131° 33' E., with the small conspicuous
island, Tnba sima (Saba sima ?), bearing S.W. ^ W. It has a great trade in
salt. On the N.W. side of Kasato Island, which is approached from the S.W.
passing S.E. of three islets ; and also at the port of Kaminoseki, opposite the
town which stands on the North side of tho East point of an island of the same
name, a large place of trade.
ITO NADA, the next arm of the Inland Sea, lies between the islands and
rocks off Nipon to the N.W. and the clearer western coast of Sikok, and is
about 46 miles in extent. To pass through it, from 1^ mile South of Ya sima,
steer E. by N. i N., 14 miles, and pass half a mile South of Ko Minasi ; then
shape a more northerly course, passing on either side of Yuri, and through tho
channel North of Gogo sima or Kosii.
Ya sima is about 500 or 600 ft. high at its North and South points, and low
in the middle. Anchorage may be obtained in 1 1 fathoms near the middle of
the western side. Ko Minasi sima, li mile South of Minasi, and 13 miles
E. by N. from Ya sima, is about 200 ft. high, and may be passed at a quarter
of a mile on the South. Minasi is 550 ft. high, lurt makes like two islands
from the N.E. or S.W., joined by a sandy beach ; it may be passed on the
South or on the North at a third of a mile. The eastern end is 410 ft. high.
Gogo sima, of very in-cgular outline, ond thickly wooded, is 4 miles long, and
lies close off Sikok, the channel between being deep and clear. The southern
part forms in a wooded peak 945 ft. high. Yura Bay, on the East side of the
island, affords sheltered anchorngc, but an isolated bank of 9 ft. lies nearly in
the middle. There is also good anchorage in the North bay and off the town
of Mitsuga llama, about E. by S. of the South point. Also in Hiyoriye Bay,
eastward of the North end, avoiding the rocks and shoals marked on the chart.
LIOHTHOUSE.— TsK/M sima, a small island 6 cables long, N.W. and S.E.,
lying off Yura Bay, has a round wooded summit 502 ft. high, and on tho
N.W. point is a lighthouse, 30 ft. high, showing ajixed bright light, elevated
186 ft., and visible 20 miles seaward between S. J W., through West and
North, and E. by N. i N. It is high water here, on full and change, at lO*" 10™ ;
springs rise 11 ft., neaps 7 J ft.
MISIKA NASA.— This portion of the Scto Uchi is 30 miles in extent.
East and West, about the same North and South, and is studded with numerous
groups of islands, islets, and rocks, of which as yet little is known. At its
North extreme is the large town of Hiro sima, on the shoro of Nipon. The
southern boundary of the Misima Nada is an extensive chain of islands stretch-
ing in on East and West direction. From Gogo sima, passing South of Nokona
Island, and West of Simonanba Point, a N.E. course will lead through the
Misima Nada up to Kndjitori Point and Cape lyo or Ozumi no hana, off both
which are rooks. North of the latter is an archipelago 30 miles in extent
SETO UCIII— THE BINGO NADA.
797
t, or about tho
Idy bottom, at
lU conspicuous
great trade in
from the S.W.
opposite the
ind of the same
he islands and
Sikok, and is
ith of Ya sima,
Minasi : then
nd through tho
points, and low
r the middle of
and 13 miles
ed at a quarter
ike two islands
passed on the
410 ft. high,
miles long, and
The southern
Jast side of the
t. lies nearly in
id off the town
Hiyoriye Bay,
d on the chart.
f.W. and S.E.,
h, and on the
light, elevated
ugh West and
ge, at IC 10"';
liles in extent,
with numerous
nown. At its
r Nipon. The
slands stretch-
uth of Nokoiia
i through the
hana, off both
I in extent.
rhe BINOO NADA is about 30 miles wide, and about 38 miles long, TI.N.E.
and S.S.W. It is comparatively clear, having only a chain of six islands
stretching across its centre in a N.W. and S.E. direction, and a few others
lying near Kurusima Strait. Tomo is a town on the North shore, in about
lat. 34^ 22J' N., long. 133=" 23J' E., famous for its mke distilleries. There
is a pier harbour here for small vessels, and anchorage in 5 fathoms in the
roadstead.
From the Misima Nada to the Bingo Nada two routes are indicated on the
chart: a northern route through the archipelago, by the Aogi seto and Mekari
scto, a channel circuitous, narrow, and intricate, amongst high islands, but
the tides are not so strong, and a southerly one, Kurusima Strait, much to be
preferred, as shorter by 6 miles, safer, and more open, passing South of and
avoiding the archipelago. A third passage, the Kuruma no scto, also through
the islands, is the shortest, but not good.
Kadjitori saki is a sharp promontory, terminating in a bluff 200 ft. high ;
on its southern side is Obe Halo ttra, in which there is excellent anchorage in
6 to 8 fiithoms. Ozunii no hana, or Cape lyo, 3 miles to N.E. by E. ^ E., is
the northern termination of a promontory of undulating hills, forming the
western boundary of Kurusima Strait. A low grassy island lies off it, and a
reef extends beyond this, having at its outer end a flat rock, 3 ft. above high
water.
Eumsima no seto, the southern channel to the Bingo Nada, is about I^
mile wide in its narrowest part, between the S.W. point of O sima and the
village of Obama on Sikok, but northward of this line it is much encumbered
by islets and rocks. Nezumi sima, lying off Ilashi hama Inlet, has a wooded
summit 356 ft. high ; Ko no se, or Perseus Rock, with 4 ft. on it at low water,
lies 1^ cable E. by N. from the N.E. point, and a shoal bank also extends 8^
cables to the N.W., with several patches of rocks on it. Shiroi hva, a white
rock 25 ft. high, lies near the middle of this bank, and at 7^ cables N.W. i W.
of it is a rocky patch of 3 J fathoms.
Uma sima, half a mile S.E. of NezumI sima, has two summits, the southern
290 ft. high ; foul ground extends a short distance around its shores. Nagato
sima, 2^ cables eastward of Uma sima, is a round wooded islet, steep-to on the
West side. Mushi sima consist of four wooded islets, lying about 2J cables
N.E. of Nngato sima. sima, a large island on the North side of Kurusima
no seto, bears evidence of volcanic origin in the remarkable features of its
innumerable peaks, deep valleys, and off-lying pinnacle rocks. Tsu sima, a
wooded island, with two summits, lies half a mile from the West shore of
O sima, and is steep-to, except on the S.E. side.
The southern coast of the approach to the strait may be known by two
curiously shaped hills, one with a double summit, on one of which is a clump
of trees, 1,202 ft. above high water ; the other hill >as a lower clump, 363 ft.
above high water, close to the shore, 2^- miles South of the large town of
VtH
7
798
THE JAPANESE AECHIPELAGO.
V
M I
^1 i n
IN
Imahari, which is also very conspicuous. Obama village lies 2J miles N.W.
of Imabari, and 2} cables N. by E. J E. from the rocky point northward of
the village is Shiioi iwa, a white-topped rock, 13 ft. high. Amaze Rock, dry
at low water, lies 3^ cables N. by W. J W. from Shiroi iwa.
The following directions, with the aid of the large scale chart, will guide a
vessel safely through. After passing Kadjitori saki, steer to pass a quarter of
a mile North of the flat rock off Ozumi no hana, when the conspicuous tree,
in the first gap South of Kiro yama, on the South side of O sima, will be seen
in line with the North extreme of Mushi sima, bearing S.E. by E. i E. This
mark should be kept on until the West extreme of the N.E. point of Uashi
haraa is open East of Nczumi sima bearing S.W. \ S., which clears Perseus
Kock. A course may then be steered to pass West of Uma sima, borrowing
rather nearer to that island than the mainland, to avoid Amaze Hock. Uma
sima may be rounded at 2 cables, or, continuing the leading mark n little
farther on, a course may be steered to pass between Uma and Nagato sima,
keeping the latter island close on board. The other channels should not be
attempted.
Tides, — From Ozumi no hana the flood stream sets towards Nezumi sima
and Tsu sima, sweeping over Fcrseus Rock towards the North point of Uma
sima, and then takes the direction of the channels. The ebb runs with great
velocity from Imabari to the North, and sweeps directly through the channel
between Uma and Nagato sima, causing on the North side heavy whirls. The
velocity at springs is from 4 to knots.
It is high water, on full and change, at Hangata, a village midway between
Hashi hama and Ozumi no hana, at lO** 36*" ; springs range 11^ ft., neaps 5 ft.
Anchorage. — There is good anchorage off Hangata, North of Hiroso Rocks,
in 7 fathoms, 2 J cables from the shore. There is no really safe anchorage off
Obama or Imabari. Anchorage, though in a strong tideway, may be had with
off-shore winds, in from 11 to 13 fathoms, sand, good holding ground, with
Imabari pier bearing S.S.W., distant 2 J cables.
The Northern Route to the Bingo Nada passes through the Aogi seta and
Mekari seto, and the tides here are much weaker than in Kurusima Strait.
The entrance to Aogi seto may be readily distinguished by the conical hill
and white boulders of Ko-oge sima and the dark wooded Oge sima, care being
taken not to mistake the S.W. point of Okamura for Ko-ogc, as it also has
some white rocks at the base. From mid-channel between these islands, steer
to pass midway between Noka no hana and Niwatori jima, after which steer
midway between Osaki sima and Yoko sima until abreast the South point of
the latter, when close the Osaki shore, to avoid the foul ground West of
Yoko sima.
After passing Kodono sima, give its North shore a berth of 3J cables, and
pass West of the buoy marking the rock awash 2 or 3 cables from its North
end, after passing which steer to pass midway between Matsu sima and Kunu
m
8 2i miles N.W.
int northward of
Amaze liock, dry
mrt, will guide n
pass a quarter of
oospicuous tree,
imn, will be seen
)y E. i E. This
point of Haslii
1 clears Perseus
siina, borrowing
ze llock. Uma
ig mark n little
id Nagato sima,
8 should not be
ds Nezumi sima
1 point of Uma
runs with great
gh the channel
yy whirls. The
lidway between
h ft., neaps 5 ft.
f Hirose Rocks,
fe anchorage off
lay be had with
g ground, with
■^ogi seto and
irusinia Strait,
he conical hill
ma, care bein£r
as it also has
e islands, steer
T which steer
iouth point of
ound West of
J cables, and
om its North
ina and Kuno
Tf
8ET0 UCHI— THE BINGO NADA.
799
sima on the North, and 0-mi sima on the South ; and when East of this
channel, bring the round wooded summit of Osaki sima {not the clump) in line
with the North extreme of 0-mi sima, S.W. by W. J W. These marks in
lino, astern, lead between Admiral and Captain Banks, to raid-channel between
that island and the main land. The North shore should be kept about half a
mile off until abreast Kosaki sima, when that island may be rounded, borrow-
ing rather over to Matsu hama, the village S.E. of the large town of Miwara,
to avoid the sandbank between Sukune sima and the beacon East of it.
Between Iwashi sima and IIoso sima, keep in mid-channel and also between
Mukai sima and In-no sima, until Sasa jima, the small islet off Mukai sima,
bears N. by E., when the full of Ilachi gauno, the bluff East entrance of
Miwara, should be brought in line with the N.M point of Huso simn, bearing
N.W. by W. i W. ; this mark will lead out into the Bingo Noga, clear of all
dangers.
Tides. — The tidal streams appear to take the line of the channels, running
with a velocity of 2J to 4 knots, the flood to the eastward. It is high water
at Miwara, on full and change, at lO"" 37""; springs range 11 ft., neaps 5 ft.
Anchorage. — Vessels will find temporary anchorage in 9 to 13 fathoms, good
holding ground, with the South point of Okamura bearing East, and the South
end of the village of Mitarai N.W. There is good anchorage in 10 to 11
fathoms off the North end of Yoko sima, and excellent anchorage off Miwara
in 5 to 10 fathoms. At the southern entrance of the Mekari scto a mud-bank
extends between Ilyaku Kuan and Yuge sima, affording excellent anchorage,
except off the channel between Yuge sima and In-no sima.
Euruma no seto. — Follow the directions for Aogi seto until clearing the
channel between Kuno and 0-mi sima, when round the shore of the latter
at about 7^ cables, and steer S.E. to pass a quarter of a mile East of Iliotan
jima, and the same distance West of the S.W. point of Seto-da jima, bearing
in mind that the ebb sweeps strongly towards the beacon on the West side of
the channel. Keep about a quarter of a mile off the Seto-da jima shore until
the islet off the East point of Hakata sima, at the East entrance to the channel,
opens of the N.E. point, bearing S.E. i E., when steer to pass the latter point
at a quarter of a mile, and then for mid-channel between the islet off the East
point and Mu sima, taking care to keep the S.W. point of Seto-da jima open of
the N.E. point of Hakata sima, N.W. J W., to avoid the foul ground between
the East and N.E. points of that island.
Tides. — In the Kurunia no seto the flood stream sets to the S.E., and the ebb
to N.W., with a velocity of 2J to 3 knots.
Fronting the Kurusima no seto, in the Bingo Nada, are a range of islets en-
closing the Hi-uehi Nada. Kadji, the N.W. island, is a round double-topped
island, 264 ft. high, with a red cliff on the hill-side North of the summit.
Miojin, to the eastward, is 325 ft. high, and makes in three lumps, the highest
having a Jump of trees. Shi-shaka consists of two islands, the higher a grass*
800
THE JAPANESE ARCHIPELAGO.
illl'
h '~
I i
covered hill 501 ft. high. Hifci titna, fi miles south-irestward of Shi-shaka, U
a group of four islets, the eastern one surmounted by a oonspiouous obimaey<
shaped clump, 242 ft. above high water.
Farther eastward is another range of islands. Toyo, the N.W. island, has a
double peak on its East end, UOO and 250 ft. high. Ta^aikami, Oki, and Yeno,
form a conspicuous group. Takaikami has a single peak 800 ft. high ; Oki,
three peaks 530 ft. high ; and Yeno, one peak 200 ft. high. Mata sitna is
about 100 ft. high, and has a few conspicuous trees on it. Momo appears
barren, and has three small knobs on it, the highest of which is about 150 ft.
Ibuki is about 100 ft. high, and bluff at the East end.
A lino of islands also trends south-eastward across tlie eastern side of the
Bingo Nada from Tomo towards a projecting peninsula, Akenose misaki, on
the East side, 11^ miles distant. Hasiri has two peaks, the eastern 400 ft.
high. Udsi, to the S.S.E., has two peaks, 370 ft. high. Mutsu stma is 600 ft.
high, and cultivated; two rocks, covering at a quarter flood, lie nearly half a
mile westward of it. Nezumi sitna, 4 miles E. ^ S. from Mutsu, is about 1^
cable in extent, 63 ft. high, and of a brown colour, surrounded by rooks.
Directions. — To pass through the Bingo Nada from ICurusima Strait, give
the islets off the South end of sima a berth of about i. mile, and then haul
up W.N.W., passing northward of Kadji and between Takaikami and Oki sima,
whence the same course continued will lead between Mutsu sima and Akeno
misaki, the entrance of the channel from the Bingo Nadu to the Harima Nada.
Akeno misaki is a thickly wooded cape, rising gradually to Shiwoonde yuma,
a bare mountain, 1,130 ]'t. high, with a large clump of trees on its summit.
Eastward of this the shoies of Nipon and Sikok approach, the channel between
them being encumbered with numerous islands and dangers, the positions and
proportions of which will be best understood by referring to the large scale
chart. On the southern shore are several towns and large villages, the chief
being Tadoisu, Marugame, and Sakaide.
Light, — Near the central part of this channel is Yo sima, with Nahae sima,
about 1 cable in extent, off its S.E. point. On the summit of Nabac sima is a
granite lighthouse, 30 ft. high, showing a Jixed bright liijht, elevated 85 ft.,
and visible 12 miles between N. by E. \ E. and W. i N. Lat. 34° 23' 5" N.,
long. 133" 49' 10" E.
St Vincent Channel passes between the islands Sanagi, Hiro, and Siyako
on the North, and Nezumi, Takami, Usi, and the North edge of Conqueror
Bank on the South. In the centre of this channel, off Hiro sima, is Habitshi
iwa or Ten-feet Rock, 20 ft. high, and whitened. The channel southward of
Conqueror Bank is now very seldom used.
Directii ^s. — In sailing from the Bingo Nada into the Harima Nada, keep
as nearly as possible to the mid-channel track marked on the Admiralty chart.
The clump on Siyako Island in line with the South extreme of Habushi iwa,
E. by N. I N., leads between Sanajji and Nezumi ; and to clear the bank eX'
SETO UCHI— HARIMA NADA.
801
tending 3 miles eastward from the former, keep the North points of Usi siiiui
and Habushi iwa in line Puss on ( ther sido of the latter, and then bring lU
South extreme its own v, . 1th open of the North point of Tukami, astern, and
steer E. by N. ^ N., which will lead between Siyako and Usi sima, and north-
ward of Conqueror Bank. Thence steer to pass midway between Nabuo sima
lighthouse and Sanmen sima, where the channel is only 4^ cables wide. A
course thence E. by N. ^ N. will lead to a position midway between the con-
sjjicuous cone-shaped island OduUi, 549 ft. high, and the small island Kuuiichi,
southward of it.
From midway between Odutsi and Koduchi steer E. by N., taking; care to
keep th(! South point uf Tc sima a little open southward of Kuiiiwa, to pass
southward of Galatea Shoal and the bank extending 3^ miles westward of Oki
sima. When off the North point of Oki sima, alter course to E. by S. till the
South extreme of Knsiwu touches the North point of Oki sima, and then steer
S.E. by E. into the Ilarima Nada.
Anchorage.— On the South side of the western entrance to St. Vincent
Channel is Awa sima, having bays on its North, South, ond West sides, in
either of which anchorage may be obtained. Ino ura, on the South side of
Ilino sima, uffords convenient anchorage out of the strength of the tides, but
care is necessary, as the head of the bay shoals very suddenly. Anchorai^o
may also be obtained in either of the two bays between Ohara no hana and
No-o saki, to the S.W. of Koduchi. Inside the shoal off the city of Tuhunatsu
good anchorage may be had in 6 and 7 fathoms, sand and mud, about a mile
from the shore. 'J'he tides, however, are very strong, and great caution is
necessary in approaching this bay.
2'idet, — It is high water at Siyako, on full and change, at O*" 1 6"" ; springs
rise 9^ ft., neaps 4 ft., the flood setting to the westward.
HAEIMA NADA, the next division of the Inland >Sea, lies off the N.E. end
of Sikok, and is about 25 miles in diameter. It lies between Sozu sima on the
West and Awadji sima on the East, having about 20 fathoms water over its
deepest part ; the southern portion is clear of dangers, but the northern portion
is encumbered with numerous islands, rocks, and shoals
Sozu lima, a large island in the eastern part of the Ilarima Nada, is 12
miles long, 7 miles broad, and 2,686 ft. high, with a temple on the summit.
On its South side the high promontory of Djizo hana or Yosino, terminating
in a bluff 994 ft. high, stretches to the southward, forming a conspicuous land-
mark throughout the Ilarima Nada, and the narrow sea to the westward. On
its southern and eastern shores are several bays in which anchorage may be
found. Between Okado Point, the S.E. point, and Higiri saki, 2^ miles to
W. by N. i N., is Sakate Bay, into which a heavy sea sets with S.l'j. winds,
and the water is somewhat deep. Uchi no timi, a magnificent and spuiious
harbour entirely landlocked, the entrance to which is between Iligiri .siiki and
iiwlh Pacific. 6 K
U
t.
1
■,
l\
1
i"nr
803
THE JAPANESE ARCHIPELAGO.
i^\
U
I j,
iilii
H
ii
I
i'
11
Djizo hann, affords excellent anchorage for all claises of vessclo in ttom 7 to 8
fathoms, mud bottom, in any part of the harbour. On its ithores are several
large villages, the principal being Kuiakahe. Two dangerous reefs lie near the
East shore of the entrance.
Off the East side of Sozu sima are several isolated rocks. Ths outermost are
Naka no the, a dangerous sunken 3-ft. rocky patch, 1^ cable in extent, lying
nearly 2 J miles E. by N. | N. from Djiono simo, and Midzu no ko, 13 ft. high,
8J cables S.E. | S. from Nnka no she.
Hanam ura, on the Sikok shore, S.W. of Yosino bluff, is a fine harbour, but
has a 3i-fathoms shoal nearly in the middle of its entrnncc. A large town
stands at its head. On the promontory which forms its WeH dide, the high
vw^^edi Peak of Gotensan, ti sacred mountain, 1,260 ft. high, is a very con-
spicuous object. Large vessels will find good anchorage in 8 fathoi is, mud,
midway between t!'.e entrance points of Naga bama ura, the eastern arm of the
bay. Vessels drawing less than 16 ft. may anchor closer in, or may anchor in
Sido Bay, the western arm, in 21 ft. water. It is high water at ll** 16";
springs rise 6^ ft., neaps 2 ft.
Oda Bay, eastward of Ilanam ura, is 2 miles wide at its entrance, and about
the same in depth, the village of Oda lying at its head. Odu Point, the eastern
point, terminates in a steep cliff, and off it is a large high rock resembling a
man's hand. The poinl should not be approached within a distance of 2 cables.
Anchorage may be had in 7 to 9 fathoms at the head of the bay, ou the bank
extending to N.N.W.
Tsuda Bay, south-eastward of Oda Bay, is 1 j mile in width, and on its sandy
beach are the villages of Tsurua and Tsuda. It affords excellent sheltered
anchorage, except from winds between N.N.E. and E.S.E., which send in n
heavy sea. The best anchorage is in 5^ to 6 fathoms, 5 to G cables off the
sandy beach. It is high water, on full and change, at 1 1** 50"* ; springs rise
Gi ft., neaps 2 ft.
Taka sima, covered with brushwood, lies 3^ cables from the northern point
of Tsuda Bay, and at 2i cables N.E. of it is Oki no isso, a reef of rooks, 2
cables in length North and South, and uncovering at low water. Saruko aima,
a small islet joined to the coast by a shingle spit, lies W.N.W. of Taka sima,
and at 1 J cable N.E. of it is a reef on which is a remarkable pinnacle rock.
Ounobe yama, the eastern point of Tsuda Bay, has several rocks off it, and
between it and Ko Isso Point, 2 miles to the E.S.E., is Maaima Bay, with
good anchorage in 6 fathoms. The shore is formed of projecting cliffs, with
small sandy beaches between them. Ko Isso Point is the extremity of a sharp
wooded peak named Dino yama. Sand-banks extend northward of it, Maru-
kama Islets lying near the extremity. Ino sima, 5 cables to W.S.W., rises to
a sharp peak. At Ko Isso mura, a small port three-quarters of a mile south-
eastward of Ko Isso Point, the chain of hills surroimding Tsuda Bay ceases.
From hence to Matsu ura the coast is steep-to, forming an ev^snsive sandy beach.
SETO rOHI— HARIMA NADA.
803
from Y to 8
I are several
lie near the
lutermost are
extent, lying
, 13 ft. high,
harbour, but
L lurgo town
(le, the liigh
n very oon-
athoi 18, mud,
i-n arm of the
nay anchor in
ot 11" 13-";
ice, and about
it, the eastern
resembling a
cc of 2 cables.
, ou the bank
nd on its sandy
llcnt sheltered
hicli send in n
cables off the
' ; springs rise
northern point
ccf of rooks, 2
Saruko lima,
of Taka sima,
luacle rock,
cks off it, and
ima Bay, with
ing cliffs, with
mity of a sharp
•d of it, Maru-
^S.\V., rises to
f a mile south-
,da Bay ceases,
ve sandy beach.
Hatin Tira, a boy l mile wide, lying wpntwnrd of loji hnma no Imnn, nfford»
good anchorage, open between N.K. nnd N.W., in SJ to 6^ fathoms. A reef
extends half a cable N.E. of loji hama no hana Point, and hos a conspicuous
rock on it.
FUago aima, two high islets surrounded by rocks, lie half a mile N.N.H.
from loji hama no hunn, there being a deptli of 2^ fathoms in the passage be-
tween. Stotz sitna,, about 1 mile N.N.W. of loji hama no hana, is flanked on
its North and West sides by large, high rocks.
Hikieta Point, 2^ miles S.E. of Matsu urn, is formed by an isolated chain
of hills; its eastern side is bordered by several rocks, and to the N.W. of the
extreme point is a small rocky island joined to the coast by a spit of snnd.
The village of Hikieta is situated on the sandy beach on the South side of the
point. Matsu aima, IJ mile eastward of Hikieta Point, is high on its North
side, and bordered by rocks on its S.E. side, a rocky bank, 3 cables long, nlso
lying 2 cables W. i S. from the islet. Triple lalet, 3 cables E.N.E. of Matsu
simn, appears like three islets lying close together. Anchorage moy be ob-
tained in 7 If fathoms, mud, between Hikieta Point and the above-mentioned
rocky bank ; with the two islets in line, distant 3^ cables, and Hikieta Point
bearing W. i N.
To the S.E. of loji hama no hanr. is loj'i hama, a massive, isolated, and
thickly wooded hill, with a high sharp summit immediately over the coast,
which is bordered by cliffs, with off-lying rooks extending nearly 2 cables from
it. Between this hill nnd Hikieta Point is a cultivated valley at the head of a
small bay, in which thcro are salt-pans.
At about 7 miles westward of Hikieta Point is the entrance to Naruto
Passage ; the coast between has not been surveyed.
To the north-eastward of Sozu sima lies a large group of islands, of which
Nisi sima is the most important. Nisi sima is about 2 miles long, nnd on its
Nortli and South sides are bays where excellent anchorage moy be had. The
islond is uninhabited, and to the southward of it lies the Matsu sima group of
islets and shoals. Eastward of Nisi sima are three large islands, named Base,
Ye, and Tanga, with numerous islets and rocks. Westward of it is Inghe aima,
with rocks extending to the S.S.W.
//oM Bag, on the Nipon shore, northward of this group, in long. 134° 30' E.,
affords good anchorage in 3 to 4 fathoms, open to the southward. Morotsu
Bay, westward of Itsu Bay, is nearly IJ mile wide between its entrance points,
ond has a depth of 4.} to 3 J fathoms all over it. Four small islets lie off it.
Oo ura, West of Morotsu Bay, is a long narrow inlet, with a depth of 4 to Si
fathoms, where small vessels will find excellent anchorage. An islet lies off
the middle of the entrance, Sakoshi Bay, West of Oo ura, has a depth of 3J
fathoms, and vessels may onchor as convenient. It is high water at Oo ura, on
full and change, at 10** lO*" ; springs rise 5} ft., neaps 4^ ft.
Port Wuaimado, on the mainland of Nipon, about 6 miles North of tho
■f;;'i
:. fi>.
804
THE JAPANESE AECIIIPELAGO.
I !'
J I'i
western point of Sozxi simn, is not altogether easy of access, as the channel is
little more than 2 cables wide, shoaling suddenly on both sides. It is sheltered
from the south-eastward by Mae sima. The entrance is between the western
edges of the shoals extending west'fard from Mae sima and Kuro sima and the
shore of the mainland. Anchorage may be taken up as convenient in 9 fathoms
at about 3 cables from the town wharves.
Port Okoyama, the entrance to which is 4J^ miles W.S.W. from Port Wusi-
mido, is in a narrow strait connecting the Ilarima Nada with a shallow sheet
of water, known as Amaki Bay. At 1 J mile from the entrance, on the North
shore, is the mouth of the Saidaidji gaiva, a river of some magnitude. //« gaiva,
the mouth of which is 3 miles farther on, is n much narrower stream, but has
a greater depth of water. Okoyama, containing about 200,000 inhabitants, is
an important commercial centre. In entering, steer with Kogushi Fort, on the
South side li mile within the entrance, bearing N.W., until Komo saki, the
South point, bears South, when haul up N.W. by N. J N., steering to pass
midway between the two forts ; and when the ismplc on the South end of
Take sima opens clear of the South shore, steer to the westward, keeping about
1 cable from the South shore. Anchorage may be taken xip in 6 to 9 fathoms.
It is high water, on full and change, at lO"* 15"; springs rise C ft., neaps 4^ ft.
The tidal streams are very strong.
AWADJI, the largest island of the Inland Sea, is 30 miles in length North
and South, and 14 miles across at its southern or broadest part, which is be-
tween the projecting promontories of Nipon and Sikok, at the eastern entrance
of this sea from Kii Channel, which it divides into two passages, the Strait of
Isumi on the East, and Naruto Passage on the West. Awadji is mountainous,
from 1,000 to 2,000 ft. high, but the hills taper away towards its North cape,
which is low and sandy, with batteries on it.
LIGHTHOUSE.— On Ye saki, about half a mile W. i 8. from the North
point of Awadji, is a granite lighthouse, 27 ft. high, showing a yfxerf i»»y/*<
light, elevated 158 ft., and visible 18 miles between S.W. by W. J W. and
East, through North.
Akashi Strait, between the North point of Awadji and the const of Nipon,
is about 2i miles wide, and commanded by forts on both shores. It is nearly
free of danger, and its shores are steep-to. The tides here are very rapid.
On the North shore of the strait is the town of Akashi, the residence of a
Daimio. From the West end of the town a bank of mud extends to the W.S. W.,
with a series of shoals on it, and terminated by Shika no se, a narrow rocky
bank of 6 to 12 ft., extending 2f miles W. by S. J S. and E. by N. i N. ; its
eastern extreme of 12 ft. lying 8 miles W. by S. i S. from the stone lantern
at Akashi. Near the middle of its southern edge a red buot/, bearing a cage,
is moored in 17 fathoms. Lying nearly parallel to Sliika no se, at 2^ miles
southward of it, is Murom no se, a bank of sand with 6| to 7 fathoms on it.
i i
SETO UCHI-OOSAKA.
801
Tskut/e no se, a slioal of 2 ft., lies 7 cables off Awadji, abotit 6 rnilesi to the.
S.W. of its North point.
Directions. — In passing through the Harima Nada, the track marked on tlie
chart should be closely adhered to. After rounding the high bluff." of Djii^o
hana, gradually niter the course to E.N.E. for Akashi Strait. Ye saki light-
house bearing E. by N. i N., in line with the summit of End Hill, leads be-
tween Murozu no se and Shika no se. After rounding the lighthouse, the coarse
may be shaped into the Isuml Nada.
Anchorage is found off Yet Bay, 12 miles S.W. of T', saki, in 9 filhoms,
one-third of a mile from the shore, and all along towards that point in 7 to 12
fathoms. There is also good anchorage in 9 fathoms, sand, on the North side
of the strait in Yamata ura, lying between Kara saki and Akashi. Yumati iso,
a 2-ft. rock, lies 3^ cables N.W. by \V. J W. from Maiko fort. Off Iwaya, on
the N.E. side of Awadji, there is excellent anchorage in 8 fathoms.
Tides. — It is high water in Akashi Strait, on full and change, at G** 27" ;
springs rise 3^ ft. The tidal streams are variable, causing heavy tide rips.
Ichi-no-hana yama, or End Hill, is a wooded hill, 820 ft. high, 5 miles east-
ward of Akashi. Taka iso, a 9-ft. rock, lies nearly a cable off shore, 5 J cables
westward of Shiwoya village. Bira iso has 6 ft. on it at low water, 4 cables
off shore, 3 J miles E. | N. from the North point of Awadji. A red buoy, bear-
ing a cage, is moored in 5 fathoms southward of it. Ye saki lighthouse kept
bearing West, till End Hill bears N.E., leads South of it.
The ISUMI NADA, or Gulf of Oosaka, at the N.E. extreme of the Inland
Sea, and 35 miles in extent N.E. and S.W., is bounded to the South by a pro-
naontory of Nipon, and to the West by the large mountainous island of Awadji.
Its shores are in general hij^li '.nd thickly wooded ; in some places, however
they are low and sandy. It ii singular in having neither an island nor a
danger in it. On t^^e East shore of Awadji the water is deep, with no con-
venient anchorages except in small bays close in. The coast of Nipon, on the
contrjiry, affords good anchorage along its whole extent, reefs only extending
1 or 2 cables off it.
OOSAKA, a city of gre<:t commercial importance, was opened as a treaty
port to foreign commerce January 1st, 1868. In 1882 it contained 587,998
inhabitants, and, unlike most Japanese cities, i.s houses arc of two stories. It
fctands on the N.E. shore of the sea, and on the left bank of the main stream
of the Yodo yatva. This river, which takes its rise in the great inland lake,
Biwa, after flowing on a south-westerly course for 30 miles, enters the Gulf of
Oosaka by several channels. At the lower or north-western corner of the city
the river divides into two branches — the ^yi katva, as the Yodo is here called,
continuing directly towards the sea ; the other branch, the Kishu yawa, takes
a southerly course, and discharges itself 2J miles lower down the gulf These
two branches are navigable by junks of moderate size, but the heavier clasaet
ore compelled to discharge their cargoes in the roadstead.
fffri
i j'i
Jl i i i MiJJW li J.. l l|iitilWlili l
806
THE JAPANESE ARCHIPELAGO.
'rW
'i
I Mi wl
>is5j
«f*!S
M
'1
t
t
I;:
1;
'\\ :
t ' \
Oosnka is intersected by several canals, which arc mostly very shallow, and
Only navigable by the flat boats of the country. The castle of the Tycoon is
On the N.E. of the city, overlooking the river.
The Foreign CoBce««ion, named Ebisujima or Kawa guchi, occupies the angle
rormed by the Aji and Kishu branches ; its position is indicated by lofty trees.
The right of building is confined to this site, but the right of residence extends
over the oontig\K»us suburb westward. It is 2 J miles above Temposan, the fort
at the river's movrth, and 2 miles b«low the castle.
At Oosaka arc so»«»e iron and shijt building works, where both sailing vessels
and steamers are built and repaired. There is also a dry dock, capable of
taking vessels of 220 ft. long, and drawing 9 ft. water.
The River Aji, which enters the Isumi Nada between two jetties, is shallow,
but may be navigated by ships' boats as far as the castle ; it has a bar, which
at unusually low tides would be nearly dry : at exceptionally high tides, 7 to
ft. might be carried over. The channel is marked by large pik-s, the two
outer having triangular vanes to distinguish them ; the 8haUow««t part is just
outside these outer beacons, and the best passage over is at one-third the dis-
tance from the North beacon, so as to avoid a shoal extending .S.^V'. from the
other. When inside, the deep water is close along the groynes on the Soutli
side, which always show. There is generally 3 ft, more water in the lower part
of the river than on the bar.
Directions from unthin thf Bar — Keep the South bank of the river, which
will lead up in a nearly direct course to the Tycoon's Castle (above tlic first
bridge the river is seen to turn off sharp to the South : this is the Ki,shu branch),
keep close past the Concession, but in the same direction, for above this the
river has two distinct channels, separated by narrow islands and shallow sand-
banks, which can seldom be crossed.
B its may be obtained just above the fort, or at Ichiokashiuden on the left
bank, 2^ miles hi;^r up.
I/igllt. — The large fort of Tempostn, which stands on the South side of tlie
entrance, commands the entrance of tiie river ; it is a high turfed eartliw(/ik,
scarped with iv.usonry, and is a conspicuous landmark, the shores being very
low. On the parapet of its western salient is a white lighthouse, 35 ft. high,
from which wjifedbriyht light is exhibited, elevated 53 ft., and visible 12 miles.
Ooeaka Roads are open to the West and South. The depths are extremely
rogciar, diminishing gradually over a soft miid bottom; the holding ground is
60 good that it is considered a vessel could ride out any gale in safety. The
shores arc <> //where of clean sand (as are the river bars), but it constitutes a
fringe only, mud ixsing found at a cable from the low-water line. The best
anchoraii, the fort
iling Tessels
capable of
, is siiallow",
bnr, which
tides, 7 to
-•^s, the two
part is just
»rd the dis-
V'. from the
n the South
c lower part
*iver, which
)ve the first
shu branch),
ove this the
lialiow snnd-
i on the left
I side of the
1 earthwork,
being very
, 35 ft. high,
•ble 12 miles,
re extremely
iig ground is
safety. The
constitutes a
. The best
ant, in 4 to
B bar of the
all star fort
at low-water mark, a mile from the shore. This bar has not been closely ex-
amined, but it is probably a little deeper than that of the Agi, as a larger class
uf junks ascend this branch to Oosaka. The channel is marked by beacons.
Sakai, — At 4i miles S. by E. from Temposan is the mouth of Siikai Eiver,
whifib enters the sea between two short moles extending from two green bat-
terieo ; it has no bar, and has 3 to 6 ft. at the entrance, opening into an arti-
ficial harbour, with a depth of 5 and 6 ft. in it.
Light. — On the end of the South pier is a white lighthouse, 37 ft. high,
showing a.Ji.ted yreen light, elevated 53 ft,, and visible 10 miles.
HIOGO and Kobe', a treaty port, 12 miles West of Oosaka, is a better and
more convenient anchorage than the roadstead of Oosaka, having slight pro-
tectiou from the South, and being thoroughly sheltered from the prevailing
westerly winds. Iliogo Buy has an even depth of IJ fathoms, with good hold-
ing ground, mud bottom. The foreign settlement is situated at the head of
the northern bay of Kobo. This bay is somewhat smaller than that of Hiogo,
but its shores are steep, with about the same depth of water, and, if less shel-
ter-.id in S.W. winds, it is less exposed to easterly winds. Several streams flow
into the bays. In 1883 the population amounted to 54,421, with 4(50 Europeans
and Americans, chiefly missionaries, and 754 Chinese. During autumn and
winter smallpox is very prevalent here.
British subjects are free to go wherever they please within 21 nule3 of
Iliogo in any direction, that ofMiako (Kioto) excepted. The crews of vessels
resorting to Iliogo must not cross the liiver Ena gawa, which flows into tho
bay between Hiogo and Oosaka.
An iron pier, in connection with the railway* which runs to Oosaka ond
Kioto, allows of vessels going alongside to load and unload. A Japanese Com-
pany has lately erected anotlier iron pier, 450 ft. long, near the western camber,
extending into 23 ft. at low water, and furnished with steam 'iranes. In con-
nection with this pier is a series of brick warehouses. The exports are tea,
raw silk, copper, wax, camphor, porcelain, &c., principally to America; tho
principal imports are cotton aatd woollen goods, metals, and kerosine oil. lu
1883, 177 foreign vessels, with a total tonnage of 207,713, entered the port, of
which 124, with a tonnage of 159,2!}8, were British. In the same year the
value of foreign imports at Iliogo and Oosaka amotmted to £1, 735,352, and
the exports to £1,348,000.
• The railway Iwtweeu Kobe and Ooaaka (Agi knwa), 21J inilos loin,', wua opened in
Mny, 1874. From OoBiika it iu .untiuuod ivi a N.E. dirooiion, past Kioto tho anciont
capital, to OUu at the South ond of Biw.i Iiake, a distuuoo of nearly 37 iniloa. Thcnco a
line of BteamerH crosses tho lake to Nagahama, 40 milo.'j disuwit, whence another lino of
railway extends to Tsuruga, cnthoK.W. coaat, 20 miles distant. Another lino i.s Ijting con-
structed north-eastward of Xaguhama. It is proposed to extend this railway, bo that all
the chief porta of \ipou shall be in commanioaiion, includir.g Tsuruga and Niegata on tho
Wett coaat, and .biti^^oya, ttt the head of Owari Bay, and Yokohama on 4bo iJoutU coaMt.
M
'&■'
I
j'evcral dcttiehcd groups of rocks, some
of them above water, and amongst them (according to the fishermen who acted
ns pilots) are sunken rocks, over which not more than 24 ft. can be carried in
any of the channels, excepting the westernmost, which they stated to be clear
of danger and navigable. These channels should not be attempted.
In 1873, a rock, 10 ft. high, was reported by Capt, Hummel, S.S. Alexander ^
at 24 miles S.AV. J S. of I sima.
Wadasima Harbour.— On the West coast of Kii Channel, 14 miles N.W.
of I sima, in lat. 34° 0' N., is n bay affording excellent anchorage, especially
for smaller classes of vessels, in 5 fathoms, sand, completely lard'ockcd; and
sufficient shelter for vessels of heavy draught from all dangerous winds in 7
fathoms. Its only known danger is Johnston lioch, which uncovers 2 ft. at
low water, and liesN. by E, J E., IJ mile, from Wadasima, the lovf East point
of entrance.
TAKURA SAEI, the eastern point of entrance of Isumi Strait, is a wooded
headland, the extremity of a mountainous promontory, skirted with reefs ex-
tending 2 or 3 cables West and South of it. The coast South of it is low and
wooded for 5 miles, as far as Zoga saki, a rocky point with four small islands
off it which are steep-to.
The eastern coast of Kii Channel trends irregularly to the southward. It was
surveyed by Commander Charles Bullock, U.N., in the Dove.
Hachken gawa is a small river running through a plain 5 miles S.E. of Kata.
Waka yama, a small isolated wooded hill, is on its left bank, 1)^ mile from the
entrance ; on its summit stands the residence of the Prince of Ksiou, conspicuous
from the sea. There is only 3 ft. water on the bar. There are forts on both
sides of the river.
South of Zoga saki is a bay 4 miles deep, and 3 miles across its entrance, ia
which anchorage may be found in 4 to 10 fathoms.
'f. • i ■
p t
f'l
, :i>
i
i-.i
m
M
812
THE JAPANESE AIICIIIPELAGO.
Osaki Bay is 1 i mile deep, nnd open to the W.N.W. The villngo of Osalii
stands on the shore of ii narrow inlet on its North side, where small vessels can
find good shelter in 5 to 2 fathoms, which they can also ohtain in Smolz lira,
the innermost bay on the South side. The only danger is a rocky 1 -fathom
patch 1 cable S.E. of the North entrance head. AVnter and small supplies can
be readily obtained hei'e.
Oktno shna, W. by S. J S. 2 miles from the entrance of Osaki, has a round
hill 271 ft. high. DJitio shna, 1 mile East of it, is 400 ft. high, has high cliffs
towards the sea, and is wooded ; it may not be passed inside. A rock, awash,
lies about 2 cables South of it.
Miya saki, 220 ft. high, and 2 miles South of Okino sima, is an abrupt
wooded peninsula at the extremity of a range of small hills. On its North
side the Arita, n small stream, disembogues, and is navigable by small junks
for a short distance up. Miya saki may be passed at 3 cables.
Tskahara Bay is 5 miles deep and G miles across between Miya saki and
Sirasai saki, its North and South points of entrance. At its head is the bay of
Htrowatali, with anchorage in 7 to 8 fathoms, well sheltered from all winds
except W. by S. A pier at the South end of the sandy beach at its head, and
off a small town, px'otects small craft in a shallow inner harbour.
Kura sima and Taka sima lie off the southern shore of Tskahara Bay. Both
these islands may be passed at 2 cables, except the South point of Taka sima,
off which, at nearly that distance, there is a rock awash. The Karanio group
of small islands, with reefs about their North sides, lie N.N.E. of Taka sima
ond West of Hirowatali Bay, with a cluster of rocks E.N.E. of them half-way
to the shore.
Unless desiring anchorage or working to windward against tide, Tskahara
Bay should not be entered within a line joining its points, as there are two
dangerous rocks lying in the centre and northern parts of the boy. Golden
ilocky so named from the large amount of property lost there, is a very small
patch, nearly awash at low water, and so steep that the lead gives but little
warning. It lies about 2^ miles S. by E. J E. of Miya saki. The Sung-ami,
three-quarters of a mile North of the West point of Karanio, is a sunken rock
with 6 ft. over it, and equally steep-to. It lies 1 J mile N. by E. of Taka sima,
and S.E. ^ E., 2^ miles, from the point S.E. of Miya saki.
Sirasai saki, or White Rock Point, derives its name from the large masses
of quartz in its cliffs, and which, with the white pinnacle rock 200 ft. high, 4
cables E.S.E. of it, show very distinctly from the South. The point is not high,
nnd a large round rock lies 1 cable N.W. of it. Turtle were seen here. Fisher-
man Reef, a small narrow rock 4 ft. above high water and steep-to on the out-
side, lies 4 cables West of Sirasai saki. Oobiki ura is a bay between Sirasai
saki and Yura no uchi, where a vessel might anchor for the night with the wind
off shore, in 6 fathoms.
Yura no uohi is a harbour 4 to 7 cablrs in breadth, and 2 miles deep, and
> \\..
KII CHANNEL -T AN ABF; HAY.
813
ngc of Osalii
ill vessels can
I Smotz ura,
jky 1 -fathom
1 supplies can
hns a round
las high cliffs
. rock, awash,
is nn abrupt
On its North
y small junks
iliya saki and
1 is the bay of
i-om all winds
t its head, and
ara Bay. Both
of Taka sima,
Karamo group
, of Taka sima
them half-way
tide, Tskahara
there are two
bay. Golden
9 a very small
ives but little
The Sung-ami,
\ a sunken rock
of Taka sima,
18 large masses
200 ft. high, 4
int is not high,
n here. Fisher-
)-to on the out-
)etween Sirasai
t with the wind
niles deep, and
being sheltered by the sharp peaked island AU sima and the extensive reefs
off the South point of entrance, always above water, is only open between
W. by S. and S.W. by W. Winds from these directions cause some swell in-
side in a gale, but it is nevertheless a secure anchorngc, safe during heavy
weather or a typhoon. The smooth round hill, Kasanc yama, on its North
side, 860 ft. high and surmounted by a clump of trees, is conspicuous, and well
marks its position. To enter, pass North or South of Ali sima. It is high water,
on full and change, at 6'' ; springs rise 5J ft.
HINO MISAKI, being nt the turn of the coast, is the most prominent cape
in Kii Channel. Its terminal hill, llino yama, is smooth sloped, 675 ft. high,
and the islet off it may be passed at 2 cables. It is steep-to, but the tide
sweeping out of the bay South of it causes an appearance of broken water,
especially with a North wind. From thence the coast runs south-eastward for
19 miles to Tanabe.
At 2} miles E.N.E. of IHno yama, on the East of the range extending from
it, is a high flat-topped saddle of nearly 1,000 ft. elevation, and very con-
spicuous from the S.E. Eastward of this is a long sandy beach, along which
anchorage may be obtained in 4 to 9 fathoms at about half a mile off shore.
The only danger in approaching the anchorage near the mouth of the small
river Ilidaka kawa, is a large flat reef, named Nosima, the inner part of which
is 15 ft. above high water. It extends two- thirds of a mile off the coast, a mile
South of the river's mouth.
Ilibe saki, — The round smooth hill, Kirime yama, rises over this prominent
point. The coast to the S.E. of the range has several outlying reefs, the largest
of which extends 4 cables off Arari Point in detached parts, and its extremity
is S.W. by W. ^ W., 3 J miles, from Ilibe saki. Eastward of Arari Point is a
bay affording good anchorage in 5 to 8 fathoms.
North of Arari Point is a round hill, on the summit of which are three spikc-
shapcd monuments ; and 3 and 4 miles inland, North and N.E. of this, are two
large high clum])S which are very conspicuous from the olBng.
TANABE' BAY is formed in a bight of the coast, 22 miles S.W. of IHno
misaki, its outer parts exposed only to West and N.W. When approaching
from the south-eastward, Itsiye misaki, the most projecting point of the coast,
will first be made, and being very similar to Cape Tanabe, the bay between
them, in thick weather, may be mistaken for that of Tanabe. Itsiye misaki
is a sloping point with a low terminating cliff, but the hills over it arc much
higher than those of Cape Tanabe, and rise to a sharp peak, the outer of a con-
tinuous high range. The summit of Cape Tanahi, which has a single con-
spicuous tree on it, is only 539 ft. high, and falls abruptly inland.
Sato saki, North of the cape, is very dangerous, a reef with two islets on it
extending North half a mile from the point, and Isaki lieef, of flat rocks above
water, lying that distance West of it. There are sunken reefs and shoal water
'■->.
I
m
■fl
,'-■.■
.1
■.;#:•
■I I'lv
if
it
i-1
m
;■■■'■:,■
ri
iv
in.
!l I
111
II!!
iiii
,1.
814
THE JAPANESE ARCHIPELAGO.
between the latter reef nnd the point, nnd off both reefs the shoal wntcr extends
2 or 3 cables beyond the outer visible dangers.
In 1885 a sunken 6-ft. rock, named S/iakuahi or Ladle, was reported to lie
8J cables W. f S. from the outer islet northward of Sato saki, with Capo
Tanabo bearing S. by E. | E. Foul ground extends about li cable S.S.W. of
this rock, and a sunken 9-ft. rock lies about 150 yards N.E. by E. of it.
In the north-western part of entrance of Tanabo Bay are Saiio and North
Bay Reefs, 4 cables apart, with a deep-water channel between them. Thu.
816
THE JAPANESE ABCIIIPELAOO.
ooal, Bait, lako (tpirito), and dried fish. Charcoal of an excellent quality for
steaming purposes was obtained from them. The villagers supplied fish and
poultry ; some deer were brought off, also a few bullocks, and a small quantity
of vegetables.
LIOHTHOUSE.— Od sima is about 3^ miles long East and West, and rises
to a height of 536 ft. On its East point is a white lighthouse, 27 ft. high,
■howing a bn'i/ht lighv, revolvitiff e\ery half minute, cicvnted 130 ft., and visible
18 miles seaward between W. by N. J T and S.W. J S.
Directions. — Approaching 06 sima Ilnrbour from the westward, a heavy
tide-race is often met with off Siwo misaki. To clear the dangers extending
from the South side of Siwo misaki promontory, the right extreme of Oii sima,
the most southern point seen, must not be brought eastward of E.N.E. until
the West point of Mioya lima, an island off the West point of Oii sima, comes
well open of Itumo *nXi, the western entrance point, N.W. by N. ^ N., when
it may be steered for, taking care not to bring it northward of that bearing
until within half a mile of it, or until the Eust extreme of Isumo saki bears
S.W. by S. I S., when steer N.W. i N., passing mid-channel between the land
and Minga bima, which has n small ledge running off its South side ; after pass-
ing Mioga, steer for the anchorage.
If compelled to work in, the Oii sima shore is the clearest, but take care to
avoid a dangerout rock lying 1| cable W.S.W. of the West point of I'nuya sima,
an island, 120 ft. high, off the S.W. point of Oii sima. The S.W. bay of Oii
siniu is clear of danger.
Approaching the northern entrance of the harbour from the north-eastward,
Oii sima flat summit bearing S.W. by W. \ W. leads 7 cables N.W. of Kami
seh Rock (which has 16 ft. over it, and lies 1| mile N.E. \ E. from the light-
house), and parallel with the mainland, off which are numerous scattered rocks
only showing at low water, some more than half a mile off. Continue this
course until the lighthouse beni-s S. ^ W., wher^ Omi saki, the North point of
Oii sima, may be steered for W. by S., which will lead 2^ cables South of a
5-fathoms patch situated S. ^ W. the same distance from Kuro Sima Rocks,
which are two small rocks with foul ground off their West side. The small
rock off Omi saki may bo passed quite close-to, after which steer westward so
OS to give the South extreme of the rocks off Hasingui a berth of half a cable,
and thenco to the anchorage.
At niyht, with the light on Oii sima bearing westward of S.W., a vessel will
pass well clear of ArundcII Point. It is recommended to steer so as to pass
eastward of Kami seh Kock, and thence between it and Double Rocks off Oii
sima East point.
It is high water in Oii sima Harbour, on full and change, at 6** 50" ; springs
rise 5 ft., neaps 4 ft.
Koza gawa is a small but opulent town, situated on the East side of the
entrance of a river, 2\ miles N.N.E. of the North point of Oii sima. The river
J
NIPON ISLAND— UBA.KAMI HABBOUB.
m
hu • ihifting bar, but a obaonel, generally defined by breaken, it alwaya avail'
able for ooaating junlu. At high water, 10 ft. may be looked for on the bar,
probably more, but strangers should send a boat ahead to sound. Kon gawa
is the seat of an important whale fishery, and at the North end of the town is
an eztensiTe timber yard, in which are spars of considerable dimensions. Small
supplies of poultry, fish, rice, &c., can be obtained.
TJBA-EAMI HABBOUB is an inlet running 1^ mile in a W.S.W. direction
into the land, at 6^ miles N.E. by N. from the East point of Od sima, and, al-
though small, affords excellent shelter in 4 to 5 fathoms, over stiff mud. For
steamers it offers an admirable haven, but being only a quarter of a milo wide,
sailing vessels might experience a difficulty in getting in or out, particularly in
entering, as, from the direction of the valley at the head of the harbour, the
wind, which may be fair outside, is frequently found inside to be blowing
straight out.
In entering, avoid a spit of rocks projecting about half a mile E.N.E. from
the South point of entrance. One of them, named Hive, is 36 ft. high, and
some arc covered, but show sufficiently to be easily avoided.
^rundell Point, the North entrance point of Ura-kami, is rooky, with low
cliffs. A wedge-shaped rock, 20 ft. high, lies I cable N.E. of it, and a rock,
awash at high water, lies S.E. by S. i S., 2^ cables from the point. Taixe ura,
two bays westward of Tomio taki, the North end of Arundell Point, are
studded with dangers.
Kati ura is a small and sheltered harbour, protected on the southern side
by a small islet, and to the eastward by a point, on the East side of which are
high dark cliffs, 160 to 278 ft. high ; southward of this point are high pinnacle
rocks, and two small islets. The harbour has a depth of 3 to 6 fathoms, sand
and mud, the only danger being a small cluster of rocks, awash at high water,
150 yards from the eastern shore. The islet on the southern side forms two
channels, but only the eastern, 125 yards wide, is navigable. There is a village
here, and some mineral springs. Fish, poultry, rice, and potatoes are plentiful.
Largo junks load with inferior coal, brought from Singo, a town on the River
Olomthi, 7 miles to the N.N.E.
To enter Kats ura, pass between Black Boc^c, lying 6} cables N. i E. from
Tomio saki, and Tera sima, and thenoo steer for Bluff Point, the South point
of the islets southward of Kats ura, and round it at the distance of half a cable,
to avoid some sunken rocks lying to the southward. Anchor N.N.E. of the
islet on the southern shore. To the N.W. a fine cascade is visible, falling
275 ft. Large vessels will find shelter from N.W. winds in the bay northward
of Kats ura, in 10 fathoms.
£da j/atna, a sharp peak 1,166 ft. high, 1 mile fit>m the coast, and 2^ mile*
North of Otonashi Biver, is a useful mark. The coast hero is a steep continuotis
shingle beach for 12}^ miles, with some villages on it. At the northern ez-
North Pae\/io, 5 m
8]8
THE JAPANESE ABCHIPELAQO.
M
tremitjr of this beach u a amall bay, lying between two hilly points, with the
village of Odomori mura at its heoJ. Marmurika Rock, 70 ft. high, lies off
the eastern point, and must be passed on its southern side. Small vessels would
find shelter here from northerly winds, in about 8 fathoms, in the centre of the
bay. Ataihika ura, N.E. of Odomari mura, is open to winds between S.E. by E.
and S.W. by S., and has n depth of 5 to 11 fathoms, sand. Fowls, rice, and
fish can bo procured from the villages. Neyetlma ura, N.E. of Atashika ura,
hns very deep water. The coast hereabout is high nnd cliffy.
Xada Bay, N.E. of Ncgesimn, extends 3 miles to N.N.W., with an arm on
either side, the western of which affords sheltered anchorage in 5 to 10 fathoms,
nearly at its head. The bay is surrounded by high wooded ranges, and there
are several villages on its shores. In entering the bay, pass southward of
Outer Rock, 30 ft. high, lying nearly 7 cables S.W. by S. ^ S. from Ithimo
saki, the N.E. entrance point, which is rocky and cliffy. At 3 miles N. by
E. i E. from this point is Kuki taki, a cliffy promoatory, the southern point of
Owasi Bay.
0WA8I BAT is 4 miles wide at its entrance between Kuki saki and Doma-
kura saki, and 4| miles deep, branching into four inlets, only the northern and
southern of which are suitable as anchorages, the others being smaller, and
only frequented by junks. Owaii no minalo, the southern and largest inlet,
is open to the eastward. Yaguehi ura, the northern one, is 3 miles long, with
deep water up to its head, where it shoals gradually off the village, affording
excellent sheltered anchorage in 8 fathoms. Fowls, fish, and vegetables may
be obtained at the villages.
Togashira aima, 2]^ miles N.N.W. of Kuki saki, rises to a height of 527 ft.,
and is covered with trees, showing in bold relief against the high land behind
it. Some other islets and rocks lie to the northward and westward. Vessels
entering should pass northward of these. It is high water in the bay, on full
and change, at 7*" ; springs rise 5J ft., neaps 2 ft.
Nearly 2 miles N.E. by N. \ N. from Domokura saki is Sasado saki, at 1
mile westward of which is Sima kachiura, affording anchorage for small vessels
in westerly winds. The land to the westward is high. Otai yatna, in lat.
34° ir N., long. 136° 5^' E., a mountain 5,620 ft. high, is a conspicuous object
when approached from the eastward, and is apparently the highest land seen
from that direction.
NAO UBA, 4^ miles N.N.E. of Sasado saki, affords good anchorage for small
vessels at all times, but large vessels would not. bo protected from southerly
winds. The approaches from the offing appear to bo studded with dangers,
but by giving the numerous small islets a wide berth there is no difficulty in
entering. titna, the largest of these outl}ring islands, has a wooded summit
339 ft. high, a conspicuous mark from seaward. Sahara lima, a black rook 14
feet high, lies 9^ cables to S.E. i 8., and is the outermost.
The bay is 1 mile wide at the entrance, but farther in it narrows and trends
NIPON ISLAND— CAPE SIMA.
819
half a mile to the N.E., terminating in two small arms, in the southern of
which a small vessel will find sheltered anchorage in 7 fathoms, mud. A largo
vessel can anchor in 6j^ fathoms, sand, 2^ cables from the eastern side of the
entrance to the bay. Fish, poultry, rice, and vegetables can be obtained from
the villages.
Koa ura, 5^ miles eastward of Nag ura, and Hota ura, 2 miles beyond, arc
clear of danger, but too narrow to be recommended u anchorages.
Naiya ura, 2 miles East of Koa ura, is 1^ mile wide at the entrance, and
2^ miles deep, with two narrow arms, extending N.N.E. and N.N.W. There
are several small islets, but the only danger is Pearce Reck, awash at low water,,
lying off the western point of Hosa ura, 3 cables from the shore. Anchorage
may be obtained in either arm, the eastern having a depth of 3^ to 5 fothoms,
open to S.S.W. ; the western arm, sheltered !tom all winds, has depths of 9 to
14 fathoms, with a patch of 12 ft. situated 1^ cable from its eastern side. Fish,
Sec, can be procured at the villages. * '•'.■'.■.''
laskara ura, open to winds between S.E. by S. and S.S.W., has anchorage
in 7^ to 0} fathoms, off a small wooded islet at the head of the bay, 'n front of
the village of Taskara. After passing the southernmost rock off Entrance
Point, the East point, Tokin tan Peak, 1,640 ft. high, with bare slopes seaward,
kept N. by W. i W., leads up the centre of the bay to the anchorage.
Mora Harbour is about 1 mile wide at its entrance, and extends 4 miles
northward, dividing in the centre into two arms, the anchorage being in the
western one, in 10 fathoms, offtho village of Haztama. The entrance may bo
recognised by two large clumps of trees on a hill, 565 ft. high, about 1 i mile
N.E. by N. from the eastern entrance point. To enter, p'ecr in mid-channel to
pass 2 cables West of Kndzura sinia; a course N.N.K. uom hence will lead
towards the outer rock off the northern entrance point to the western arm.
Ooza Harbour, 3 miles East of Mura Unrbour, affords shelter from all but
westerly winds. Its entrance is 1 mile wide, and thenco it extends to the
eastward. An inlet, named Ilamagema ura, on the northern shore, just within
the entrance, affords sheltered anchorage for small vessels, in 5 to 7 fathoms ;
the bar has 12ft. water on it. Largo vessels can anchor in 7^ fathoms, sand,
cables within the entrance of the bay, or nearly 2 miles farther East in 14 .
fathoms, mud. It is high water in Hamagema ura at O** 15" ; springs rise 6 ft.,
neaps 1^ foot. P'owls, &c., may be procured from the villages.
CAFE SIMA, Xima, or Taio >aki, is a low wooded headland, 8 miles
eastward of Ooza Harbour entrance. At 3j cables East of it is a conspicuous
rock, 35 ft. high, and from hence to the S.W. several dangers lie off the coast.
sima and Ao titna, two wooded islets 3^ cables apart, lie from 1^ to 2 miles
S.W. of Mugi $aki, on which is a conspicuous clump of trees ; long reefs and
sunken rocks extend in all directions from these islets, the sea generally break-
ing on them, owing to the constant swell caused by the strong tides. Outer
Re^, which always breaks, uncovers 3 ft. at low water, and lies S. by W. ^ W.
820
THE JAPANESE ABCIIIPELAaO.
2 miles fi-om O Bima, with Jeujt yama, » oontpiouoiu bore hill, 1,280 ft. high,
just open \Ve«'. of Qon saki, N.W. by N. | N. Numerous tide rips occur out-
side the recfii.
Northward of Cape Sima to the entrance of Matoja Harbour, a distance of 5
miles, the coast is skirted by dangerous off-lying rocks.
MATOTA EARBOITB, 6 miles North of Cape Sima, is open only to the
East. Its entrance is 6^ cables wide, but immediately within rocks extend
northward fVom the southern shore, and contract the navignble channel to a
width of 3^ cables. The harbour is divided into numerous inlets and bays,
with safe anchorage in nearly all of them. A few fowls, eggs, and fish may be
obtained.
IIOHTHOUSE. — On the East extreme of Anorx taii, the South entrance
point, is a white lighthouse, 41 ft. high, showing a briyht light, molving
CTcry half minute, eleratcd 102 ft., and visible 15 miles seaward between
W. i N. und S.W. f 8.
Haka si, a rocky patch uncovered at low water, lies just within, the North
point of entrance, and a quarter of a mile off shore ; another patch lies 3
cables to the N.W. Watakano sima lies in the S.W. part of the harbour ;
North and South of it are two inlets, in the northern of which, H cable wide,
is the town of Matoya.
On entering Matoya Harbour the reefs on either side are nearly all visible ;
steer so as to pass the outer rock above water, on the southern shore inside
Anon saki, at a distance of 1^ to 2 cables, and then alter course to West for
the opening leading to the town, seen South of the cliffs of Miya no saki ; this
will lead If cable South of Haka se, and well clear of the rocks off a point on
the southern shore. With northerly windes large vessels may find good anchor-
age in the northern portion of the harbour, in 5^ fathoms, with the lighthouse
bearing S.E. i S., and the outer rock above water, off Miya no saki, S.W. ;
and with winds from the southward off the East extreme of Watakano sima, in
8 fathoms, with the N.E. point of that island bearing N.W. by W. ^ W. It
is high water, on full and change, at G** 50" ; springs rise 6 ft., neaps 1^ foot.
For 6 miles North of Matoya Harbour the coast is foul, and fringed with
off-lying reefs ; it then suddenly turns to the N.W., and is split up into many
rocky inlets, of which Toha Bay is the largest. Stretching hence across the
entrance to Owari Bay are numerous islands and rocks.
The town of Toba is on the West point of a shallow creek West of Toba
Bay, and off it lies the island of Sakate, 349 ft. high. Fish, &c., can be ob-
tained, also wood suitable for small spars. Great caution is necessary in navi-
gating in this locality. There is anchorage in 10 fethoms, 2 cables off a village
on the South side of Sakate, and also in 6^ ftithoms between the West end of
Sakate and He sima, three islets 7^ cables North of Tob«e«atle. The mountains
above Toba are high.
LI0HTH0V8E.— /S'uya sima, East of Sakate, is about 2 miles long, and
NIPON I8LAND-0WARI BAT.
831
rises to n height of 773 ft. Kooks extend off its East point. On its N.E. ex-
tremity is a white lighthouse, 34 ft. high, showing tL fixed briyht light, elerated
176 ft., and visible 15 miles between N.W. by N. f N. and S. i W.
The channel West of Momotori sima is deep, and 4 cables wide. Nearly n
mile West of it is a bay, with a rock 10 ft. high in the centre; the best an-
chorage here is in 6^ fathoms, 2^ cables S.W. of the N.E. point. About a
mile westward is Ye mura, a large village at the mouth of the Kagamiye gawa,
and 2^ miles farther on the Minalo gawa flows into the bay. Shoal water
extends off the latter, and for 1} mile northward of Toba sima there is only 4
to A fathoms, there being a deep channel into Owari Bay between these banks.
Momotori sima, nearly a mile North of Suga sima, is 3^ miles long, and
rises to a height of 552 ft. Some islets extend westward of its western end,
the outermost named Tola tima. A ledgo of 3 fathoms lies a quarter of a
mile South of the peninsula at its S.E. end, and a rock, awash at low water,
lies 6f cables East of the same point. There is shelter from southerly winds
for a small vessel in the buy on the North side of Momotori ; and there is also
anchorage on the southern side of the island in 6 or 7 fathoms.
A chain of islets and rocks extends 2^ miles north-eastward of the N.E.
point of Momotori sima, Odzu-kumi lima, half a mile distant, and 268 ft. high,
being the highest of the chain. Eastward of Kodxu-kumi tima, the eastern*
most, are two pinnacle rocks named Konaa aima and Shimodauaa aitna, with
less than 6 ft. water over them, and 6 cables apart N. i E. and S. ^ W.
Konsa sima, the northernmost, lies 8^ cables N.E. by E. from Kodzu-kumi,
and the other lies 7 cables E. by S. ^ S. Suga sima lighthouse bearing S.W. i S.
leads well eastward of them.
Kami sima, nearly in the centre of the main entrance to Owari Bay, rises
on its eastern side in precipitous cliffs to a height of 544 ft. Some rocks lie
off its shores, and to the S.W. of it are Oki no at, two dangerous reefs, the
eastern of which, nearly awash at low water, bears S.W. ^ W., I^ mile, from
the summit. The western reef, half a mile S.W. of the eastern, has a rock
2 ft. above high water on its western side. Suga sima lighthouse bearing
W.S.W. leads 3^ cables South of these reefs ; Kodzu-kumi summit N.W. f N.
leads \\ cable West of them. At 3f miles E.S.E. of Suga sima lighthouse is
Tat aima, a 5-&thoms shoal, which breaks in very heavy weather.
Directioni. — When abreast Matoya, bring Kodzu-kumi summit to bear
N. f W., which will lead about a mile East of Ishigaki iwa, after passing
which the course can be shaped to pass westward of Suga sima to Toba an-
chorage, or bring Yoroi saki in line with Ishigaki iwa S. i W., astern, unti
past the East end of Suga sima ; the South extreme of Momotori sima bearing
W. i S. leads in the deepest water North of Suga sima lighthouse, if wishing
to proceed to the anchorages.
L to saki, tLe eastern entrance point of Owari Bay, is a rooky promontory,
172 ft. high, with a sharp peak, 484 ft. high, a mile eastward of it. Some dc«
THE JAPANESE ARCHIPELAQO.
t
taohed rocks Ho to tho eastward, and tomoIs should not approach tho cape
within three-quarters of a mile. The tidal streams run strongly off it. Nortli-
ward of it Ihir protection from winds between N.E. and South may be found in
7 fathoms, about 3^ cablet from the shingU beaoh. H.M.S. Sjflvia rode out a
typhoon here in 1877.
OWA&I BAT, or 1»1 Sea, the main entrance to which lies between Kami
$ima and Irako saki, is about 35 miles long. North and South, and divided into
three separate arms, that to tho westward being the largest. According to ex-
aminations made by the German war-vessel Elizabeth, 1877, and tho Japanese^
Qwari Bay has no greater depth than 22 fiithoms, gradually shoaling towards
its head, off which shoal water extends for about 5 miles. Large vessels, with-
out local knowledge, should not shoal to less than 8 fiithoms. Vessels can an-
chor in any part of the bay.
. The western side of the bay shows a high mountain range, broken opposite
Yakaichi. The eastern coast is low ; from Moro saki to Taka me suki are hills
of moderate elevation ; North of Noma saki the land appears level and wooded.
The l^abofi in 1875, proceeding in nearly a direct line from Kami sima to
Yakaichi, on the West shore, obtained soundings of 12 to 25 fathoms at 21- or
3 miles from the East shore. A shoal of 2^ fathoms, mud, extends about 2^
miles firom the eastern shore, S.S.W. of Onia saki village.
Takaiohi is the port where all produce from the interior is shipped. Native
ateam-vessels call regularly, and the place is of rising importance. AUuda
Bay, the head of Owari Bay, is ;jhoal; Fune Kata or Atatau, on its N.E. shore,
is the seaport oi Nangoya, one of the largest and most opulent cities in tho
empire, to which it is proposed to construct a railway, about 4 miles long,
thence to bo extended till it joins with the system described with Iliogo here-
after. The Thahor anchored in 2^ fathoms about 5 miles from the village.
Mikawa Bay, the western arm of Owari Bay, appears to have no greater
depth than 12 fathoms, and to have a remarkably even sandy bottom, and well
protected from a heavy sea.
The channel between Kami sima and Irako saki is safe, but if entering nt
night care is necessary, as they are somewhat similar in appearance. The
southern passage shoidd not be attempted.
The Coast from Irako saki trends to the eastward for about 60 miles as far
as Omai saki, and is one long stretch of sandy beach, on which are sand-hills
and patches of trees. Ilamana Ko, the entrance to which is nearly midway
between, is an extensive shallow sheet of water, only admitting junks nt high
water; the coast westward of it is formed of remarkable yellow sandy cliffs.
On the eastern side of the entrance is the town of Mayesaka, and 8 miles in-
land is Hamamat$Ut a large town and telegraph station. Ttvrin yawa, 12
miles eastward of the entrance, is a river of some sise, and off ita entrance,-
named Kaketuka tninato, is a spit, under the lee of which, during westerly
windfl, good anchorage may be found in 7 to 10 fathoms. The water off thit
NIPON ISLAND— GULP OP 8URTJGA.
est
flout is much diieoloured. During the winter months, Oetoher to March,
on this coast westerly winds prevail, accompanied by fine clear weather.
OMAI 8AKI is a dark wooded bluff, 150 ft. in height, terminating a very
•andy shore with high beaches, backed by wooded hills. It may also be recog-
nised by two remarkable white patches, only one of which is visible from East
or West. Shelving rocks, dry at low water, extend 3^ cables from high-water
mark. A white beacon, bearing a ball, stands about three-quarters of a mile
N.W. of the cape.
LIGHTHOUSE.— On a sand-hill on the S.W. part of Omai saki is a white
tower, 71 ft. high, showing a biyht light, revolving every half minute, elevated
173 ft., and visible 19 miles seaward between N.E. and W. by N. ^ N.
Nearly 2 miles East of the southern point of Omai saki arc Lady Inglit
Rockt or Gozen itca, on which the vessel Lady Inglii was wrecked in 1859.
They consist of a reef one-third tf a mile long, North and South, composed of
isolated rocks, which usually uncover 4 ft. at low water springs ; they do not
always break nt high water, but the locality is marked by tide rips. There is
a deep channel between them and the shore, but a small rock, awash at low
water, lies nearly midway between.
Good shelter from westerly winds between North and S.W. may be found
North of Omai saki, in 6 fathoms, good holding ground. North Rock, awash
at high water, lies N. by W. \ W., 5 miles from Lady Inglis Uocks, and about
1 mile .off shore.*
OULF of SUBU6A (the rulomi GulJ'oi former charts), the waters of which
wash the western shore of the peninsula of Idsu, is 35 miles deep, and 3U miles
wide at its entrance, and, with the exception of Lady Inglis and North Reefs,
is thought to be free from any impediment to navigation. The water in it is
very deep, no bottom at 250 fathoms being found at mid-entrance, none at 160
fathoms midway across near the head of the gulf, and none at 110 fathoms at
a little more than a mile from the western shore.
The eastern side of the gulf, the shore of the Idsu peninsula, is generally a
belt of cliffs, broken, however, into several denp-water havens, which, though
small, afford good anchorage, but for sailing vessels with a foul wind are all
difficult of access, and the entrances of those horbours that are known, Tago,
Arari, Heda, and Yeno \ira Bays, on the Idsu shore, are too narrow to admit
* The barquo Oleander was reported, in 1880, to havo struck on a rock 6 miles N.E. by
N. \ N. from Omai saki. This rock was searched for without suooess by Liaut. K. Hoskyn,
K.N., inl881.
Fortmouth Breakeri.—Caft. Foote, U.S. frigato Ptrtmcuth, 1868, reported that he nearly
lost bis vessel ° 21' N., long.
1861, is formed
out in a north-
s good shelter in
ad, available for
opairs. A small
iiange, at T"" 30" ;
»ns and villages.
I vessels running
>oint at 2 cables,
of the harbour,
trict.
rt grain), small
X of a very fair
ater cou be ob-
sufficient quanti-
uruga Ottlf, is 1
I wooded island,
of entrance, and
;s ia the bay are
is good shelter
the depth is 13
midway between
8 on the western
abtained from it
in general, is givon
ly by Lieut. Elki^
It
I
I
1
U i " » *i » i / / • s 4 T v / K A D Z U
r^imdv
S A
^^
"A ^ tV itl *=»ir^r^4. « " d * i\'
• V- Tin ' N^\r*. ' 4B "• ** *l ♦ / /
•■■■ '«j4, """"^ V ' « " .1, /'^'^•"" ■♦■
*r';*" v^»' "'X''" ,,
yoko ■ qhm\ y'
14& . ^ m
4b
Daiho Stihn. >..
10 <;S^
« '7-::i4'^"<'"";
(iitA-m\nrtii|>^
.•fl* 4t « »t , ». T**, ^
J4 62 10*
1 2 .1 4
J
43
•h
„^ » u 8 7 i\.l a *
S3 " Uag» i» <'Ji, so 44 78
Nfiutir MilpM
38 -'«'$♦.
hlk.. « -v^^i^
N'lroX ISLAND-TIIE GULP OP YKDO.
fi24
with (lifncuUy, on account of its Bhallownou, it is best to procure it from tho
town wells. Tlicro is nbundanoo of fish and vegetables. 'II10 tide rises about
4 feet
H«d« Bfty, on tho East shore of the gulf, in lat. 34° 58^' N.. is 8 cables in
extent, N.W. ond 8.E., 4 to 9 cables wide, with a depth of 8 to 22 fnthomH,
over fine sand. Tho entrance, a quarter of a mile wide, and open to tho
N.W., is to tho northward of a low sandy spit extending half a milu northward
from the southern shore. It is a safe and aceessiblo anchornge, nnd is shel-
tered on all sides by high mountains. There is a village in n valley at its head ;
ii»h and vegetables arc abundant. Tho tide riiicB 5.} ft.
Arari Buy, Hheltcrcd from oil winds, but only fit for small craft, lies 9 mil. .;
southward of Ileda Hay. It is 4 cables in extent, North ond South, ond 2 fo
(1 cables across, witli depths of to 12 falliomx, over fine sand. Tho ■ ' urcs of
tho bay are mountainous. Water may be conveniently obtained fro ihe vil-
lage on the eastern *' > ; fish is plentiful. The entrance, open to the N.W.,
is only half a cubic wide; in enterin;^, keep in mid-eliannel, and when >u)nil
island opens, ciocr between it and the sandy point to tho S.W.
Tago Bay, about a niilo b'outh of Arari Uay, is 4 cables in extent, North nnd
South, and half a mile wide. It is sheltered from all winds, with depths of 12
to 20 fathoms, soft mud bottom. There is a small town here, and water can bo
obtained from tho wells. l''ish and vegetables can be procured.
In steering for the entrance, which is open to tho N.W., two islands (lying
half a mile W.N.W. from the South point of entrance) will be seen, with rocks
nnd breakers extending to the southward from them. I'nss northward of these
islands, between them and the mainland.
These four bays just described will serve as a refuge from S.W. winds, which
eausc a great swell in Suruga Gulf. Their coasts arc wooded and mountainous,
attaining tho height of 1,000 ft. The entrances must be approached fearlessly,
fur the hijjh coast conceals them, and the bays only open when within a mile.
THE GULF OF YEDO.
The GULF of YEDO, connected with Yedo Bay by Uraga Channel, is
bounded on tho West by tho mountainous peninsula of Idsu (terminated to tho
southward in Capo Idsu), and on the East by that of Awo, tho southern point
of which is 52 miles distant.
IRO-O SAXI, or Cape Idsn, is a fine bold rocky headland, and may be recog-
nised by a conspicuous white cliff, SJ miles N.W. of it, nnd a coait.'\ rocky
peak a few miles further in the same direction, forming the S.W. extreme of
the peninsula. The summit of Capo Idsu is a hill 250 ft. high, which falls into
two small ridges to the sea. There is on islet 50 ft. high a (juarter of a mile off
North Paci/ic. 5 N
i;
'1
: 1
826
THE JAPANESE ARCHIPELAGO.
For 3 miles E.N.E. the coast is fronted
the shore, 1 mile West of the cope,
with sunken rocks.
LIGHTHOUSE— On Iro-o saki is a white lighthouse, 24 ft. high, showing
ajxed red light, elevated 185 ft., and visible 8 or 10 miles seaward between
E. f N. and \V. by N. J N.
ROCK ISLAND and LIGHTHOUSE.— Eock Island, or Mikomoto, is about
104 ft. high, and a third of a mile in length, with precipitous shores and an un-
even outline ; it bears E. by S. J S. about 5 miles from Cape Idsu. On it is a
white lighthouse, 72 ft. high, showing a ^x«/ light, elevated 164 ft., and visible
19 miles. The ligbt is bright seaward, but red inshore over the dangers, be-
tween N.W. and N. by E., the latter bearing leading into Simodu Harbour.
Between this rock and the main land are the Yokone and live other rocks,
among which the junks freely pass ; but a vessel should not attempt to run
inside Rock Island at night. The channel between Rock Island and Ucona
Bocks carries irregular soundings of 9 and 14 to 30 fathoms ; a rocky 4-fathoms
patch lies 6J cables N. J W. from the lighthouse. The tides arc regular, the
flood setting W.S.W., 1^ mile an hour, the ebb E.N.E., from 2 to 3 miles per
hour ; the force of the ebb tide being considerably augmented by the general
north-easterly current.* The vicinity of Bock Island is remarkable for the
exceptionally bad weather frequently experienced in its neighbourhood.
Yokone or Ucona Bocks, two in number, though they generally appear as
one, bear N. by W., distant 2 miles from Bock Island ; the larger is about
25 ft. high. Five other rocks occupy a triangular space of a mile from W.S.W.
to N.N.W. of Yokone Bocks, the northern and southern of these small ledges
being nearly awash. A reef also extends 3 j cables towards them from Tohadgi
Point to the N.W. of Yokone Rocks. There is deep water between all thE. of Capo Diamond, and 2 miles off the Linil.
GULF OF YEDO-ODOWARA IIAY.
820
Approncliiiip; Sitnoila from the H.I'], pass westward of Kusu simn, from which
the harbour hoars N. by W. J W., distant about 27 miles.
From Iro-o saki the coast rounds in a N.E. direction 20 miles to Futo saki,
its general features being high, rocky, and even, having near Simoda a few
8andy beaches. Dctween Simoda and Futo saki the coast is bold of approach.
Over it the mountain Amagi yama rises to 4,700 ft., and on the N.E. ridge is
a conspicuous dome-shaped hill.
From Futo saki the coast trends more to the northward, forming r\ slight
bend to Fuhi-ura, where it becomes more broken, but maintains its bold fea-
tures under a lower range, the two higlicst points of which are elevated 2,070
and 2,100 ft. ; \indcr the latter is a round hill witli a large qtiarry. l-'roin these
hills the long low promontory of Matia/suni, bordered by vertical clifi's, stretches
to the eastward, and oil" its extreme point is a rock 20 ft. high. On its West
side is the ojjcn bay of Fuku-ura. From thence the coast assumes a lower
elevation, and gradually bending round to the eastward forms the treacherous
IJay of Odawara.
To the northward of Futo saki arc some small islands, the largest of whieii,
Ilatsu slma, miles distant, and 120 ft. high, is about 3 miles offshore, and to
W. by N. of it is the bay of Jjiro. This bay is open to N.E. winds, and an-
chorage may be obtained off the South point, on which is a village.
Atami Bay, 2] miles North of Ajiro, may be distinguished by a small white
cliff to the northward ; the water in the bay is deej), there being no bottom at
20 fathoms at the entrance ; a natural breakwater forms a shelter for small
vessels in 5 to 13 fathoms. Anchorage may be obtained in 7 fathoms, black
sand, with Ilulau simu bearing S.E. \ E., and a rock off the South point
S. by E. J E.
At Ataini is a hot sulphur spring, an immense column of steam and hot
water being ejected from the vent about six times a day. These baths are fre-
(pientcd by the Japanese, and there is a small village of 200 or 300 houses.
ODAWARA BAT, or Sagami ura, from the lowness of the land at its
head, has sometimes been mistaken by strangers for Uraga Channel. AVhen
past Vrics Island, hoMcver, the channel will be recognised by Sn-no saki, its
East point of entrance, being comparatively high (015 ft.), whereas Cape
tSayami, the southern part of the peninsula of that name on the West side of
entrance, is not more than 70 ft. high, with the excei)tion of a small hill of 351
feet elevation on the centre of its South part, named Tree Saddle, from two
conspicuous clumps of large trees ou its summit. The liyhts will indicate it
by night.
Care nmst be observed when steering for Uraga Channel not to be drawn
into this bay, as a considerable indraught has always been eyporienced, and
the low land at the head, contrasted with the high land to the westward of it,
looks so distant, that the bay has often been mistaken for the channel, and tho
error only discovered when deeply embayed, and probably close to some of the
m
THE JAPANESE AliCIIIPELAGO.
■!1
I '}
• I
.•eefs which skirt the head and East side of the bay, the most dangerous of
whieh is Macedonian llcef.
Teno >ima, 220 ft. high, is the eastern extreme of the low shore fronting
the plain at the head of Odawara Bay, which is said to bo very shallow, nl'
though there is 1 17 fathoms at 3 miles distance. Uba sima, a large reef, marked
by a peaked rock 30 ft. high, lies 1 mile off the beach, 2 miles to the West of
Yeno sima, and a similar reef lies three-quarters of a mile farther N.W. Yeno
sima has bold high cliffs of a light colour, which makes it very conspicuous,
ond a flattish summit with a few large trees. On the S.E. it cannot be ap-
proached within three-quarters of a mile, as an extensive reef skirts that part
of the island. The island is connected with the main, where the Sagami Hills
terminate, by a narrow ridge of shingle, which covers at high water, to the
westward of which a small river disembogues. There is generally a heavy
ground swell at this part of the bay.
The white pointea cliffs of Kotzbomura M'ill be seen 2^ miles East of Y'eno
sima (the coast between being skirted by sunken reefs), and are a guide to the
only anchorage on the North side of Odawara Bay.
Horino-utsi-mnra. — The bay directly East of the white cliffs is full of reefs,
and cannot be approached, but Horino-utsi-i ura Bay, the bay next S.E., and to
the North of Impcrieuse Bluff, is a fair temporary anchorage, though exposed
to West and S.W. winds.
A reef, 3 cables long, extends from a low point at the foot of Impericusc
Bluff. To the N.W. of this, a chain of rocks runs out westward from the low
point just North of the bluff, their centre part being marked by a large whitc-
tojjpcd rock 20 ft. high ; the outer rock is very small, but uncovered. At 3
or 4 cables North of this chain there is anchorage in 4 to 8 fathoms. The Dove
and Leven anchored here, the rocks breaking the heavy swell from the South.
Macedonian Reef lies off the East side of Odawara Bay, at 4 miles N.N. W.
of Joka sima lighthouse. It dries in many places at low tide, and, except in
the smoothest water, always btlrays itself by a breaker when covered ; but if
it be not visible, do not bring the lighthouse to the southward of S.E. by S. ^ S.
until the South end of the first range of hills, 700 ft. high. North of Cape
Sagami, bears E. J N. The ranges of Sagami Peninsula terminate in Impc-
rieuse Bluff, 500 ft. high, wooded, and very conspicuous. The West slope of
the bluff N. by E. will lead three-quarters of a mile outside the reef.
ASINA BAT. — Vessels embarrassed in the vicinity of Macedonian Ilccf
may find an anchorage about 1 J mile N.E. of it in Asina Bay, in 4 to 8 fathoms,
good holding ground, and sheltered from all points except westward, but only
n case of extreme emergency would justify a stranger using it. There arc some
rocks off the North side of the bay, but they show, and arc easily avoided by
keeping mid-chnnnel.
Ko>ajiTO Bay. — There are two or three excellent havens for small craft and
I'unks on the West shore of Sagami Peninsula, to the southward of Maccdo-
!!
GULF OF YEDO— TATEYAMA BAY.
S31
Jangcious of
tore fronting
shiiUow, n)«
reef, marked
tlio West of
N.W. Yeno
conspicuous,
innot be ap-
rts that part
Sagami Hills
rater, to the
ally a heavy
!ast of Ycno
guide to the
1 full of reefs,
tS.E.,audto
lugh exposed
f Imperieuso
from the low
large white-
crcd. At 3
IS. The Dove
1 the South,
ilcs N.N.W.
d, except in
crcd ; but if
E. by S. i S.
rth of Capo
Uc in Iinpv-
est slope of
ef.
donian llccf
to 8 fathoms,
rd, but only
ere arc some
avoided by
ill craft and
of Maccdo-
ninn Reef. Ko-ajiro, the largest of these, is 2 miles North of Joka sima light-
house, or three-quarters of a mile N.K. of the Moioisi, a long reef of rocks,
which extend off the point N. by W. J W. of the lighthouse. There is no
difficulty in entering. A reef stretches off the North point of entrance, half-
way across the entrance, with a 4-fathoms channel on tho bold South shore.
Farther in a peroh marks the end of the shoal from the South shore. Inside
this is secure anchorage in 3 fathoms.
Lighthonse. — Jolia sima is 1 milo long, and skirted with reefs. On its
West end is a white lighthouse, 25 ft. high, showing a ,/f j«/ ft. Tho
point is low, with the exception of a small elevation, at tho N.W. corner, on
which is an old fort. There is a heavy tide-rip off it, but no dangers at a greater
distance than half a mile from the shore.
TATEYAM * '^ AY.— The coast from Su-no saki doubles back abruptly to
the eastward 4 cr 5 miles before taking its northerly trend, forming, with
Daibo sahi, the point next North of Su-no saki, the Bay of Tatoyama, in which
shelter and good holding ground may be found in southerly and easterly gales,
but it is quite exposed to the westward.
The best anchorage is in about 7 fathoms, a quartw of a mile eastward of
Taka sima, the easternmost of tho two small wooded islands on the South side,
with the West extreme of Daibo saki N.W. by N. J N., and Sim yama, a hill
290 ft. high, S.E. by S. i S. This hill is the North extreme of some rising
ground in the S.E. corner of the bay. This position is well sheltered from
North, round East, to W. by S., but should there be any appearance of the
wind veering westward, an early departure is recommended, as a heavy sea
quickly tumbles in.
832
THE JAPANKSE AEC'IIirELAGO.
The Actaon obtuincd fisli, fowls in smuU quantities, and water, from a village
at tbo base of Siro yania.
Numerous small off-lying rocks stud tho const from Su-no snki as fur north<
ward as Kanayn Point, tbo outer of wbicb is Ghihu-isi or Black Rock, about
20 ft. bigh, lying N. by W., 1^ mile, from Daibo Point, and a mile off sbore;
near it arc several small rocks wbich only uncover at low water. Most of these
rocks sbow above water, and no danger is at present known to be a greater
distance than a mile off shore. Kanaka Point bears nearly East of tho Tree
Saddle on Sagami Peninsula, and is at the termination of the sharp well-defined
ridge of the Miogani yama, a fine dome-shaped mountain, elevated 1,U96 ft.
To tho northward of these hills the country (Kadsusn) becomes much lower,
and a few miles north-eastward of Futsu saki, tho point off which Saratoga
Spit extends, it becomes an uninteresting dead flat, encircling tho head of
Yedo IJay.
DIBECIIONS, — In navigating tho south-eastern coast of Japan, after pass-
ing Satano misuki, in Van Dioinen Strait, if the weather be thick, the vessel's
position should bo well ascertained before she is hauled to tho E.N.E., as her
course is parallel to the high land for about 20 miles from tho pitch of the
cape. It should also bo borne in mind that the Kuro siwo current on this
coast runs to the E.N.E. at tho rate of from 40 to 100 miles a day ; it may,
however, bo entirely checked for twenty-four hours by n N.E. wind, when it
may bo again expected to resume its former course, and possibly run with
greater ropidity than usual for one or two days.
Vessels, therefore, bound to the eastward must allow for this current, and
should keep not more than 30 miles off shore, so as to be enabled, if necessary,
to verify their reckoning by sighting the land,* as also to avoid being set to tho
southward, as is sometimes the case when approaching Capo Idsu, and with
light winds it is ditticult to regain the coast. In the summer season the north-
easterly current is not to be expected in the vicinity of Cape Idsu.
Vessels from tho Gulf of Yedo bound for Kii Channel, after passing Ilock
Island, should take an in-sbore passage, steering for Omai saki, and thence for
Oi) simn, thus avoiding the strength of the Japan Stream.
In approaching the Gulf of Yedo, tho remarkable high mountain Fusi ynmn,
a lofty and symmetrical truncated cone of 12,450 ft. elevation, and so different
in form from any other land in its vicinity, cannot ftiil to be of great service in
directing vessels either to Simoda or Yedo. In clear weather it is tho first
distant land seen, and generally to the north-eastward, visible at times upwards
of 100 miles. Iro-o saki, or Cape Idsu, is in line with it when bearing North.
When bound from the southward and westward endeavour to make Capo Idsu,
nnd if tne weather is at all clear, the chain of islands off the Gulf of Yedo will
* It is recommended to make Siwo misaki, tho East poiat of culritnco to Kii Ch:knncl,
whonovcr praclioaUo.
GULF OP YEDO— URAGA CHANNEL.
833
from a villngo
i as fur north*
Rock, about
le off shore }
Most of these
be a greater
of the Tree
► well-defined
ted 1,096 ft.
much lower,
it'll Saratoga
the head of
I, after pass-
. the vessel's
'J^.K., as her
pitch of the
■cnt on this
»y ; it may,
id, when it
y run with
urrcnt, and
■ necessary,
J sot to the
, and with
the north.
ssing Rock
thence for
Fusi ynraa,
io different
service in
8 the first
Js upwards
ing North,
-ape Idsu,
Yedo will
ii Chunnol,
at the same time be plainly visible. Omai saki, the West point of entrance to
Suruga Gulf, cannot bo mistaken for Cape Idsu, the former being low, with a
sandy beach and low sand-hills, with occasional patches of trees ; whereas the
cape is high and rocky, and its summit generally hidden in the clouds. Rock
Island being low, unless the weather is clear, will not be seen until long after
this cape and Yries Island are made. By night the lights form good guides.
Between Kii Channel and Rock Island westerly winds are most frequently
met with, falling light when the latter place is passed ; and often on rounding
Cape Sagami a strong N.E. wind is encountered.
UBAOA CHANNEL, connecting the gulf with the bay of Yedo, is remark-
ably clear of hidden danger. On its West side, about 1 mile off shore, lie
Ashika sima or Plymouth Rocks, always uncovered, and easily seen ; close to
them is a sunken rock, and in their vicinity, off Scnda saki and Uraga, are
several rocky patches extending some distance from the shore. The mariner
should bear this in mind, and as Kancda Bay has also some foul ground in it
at nearly a mile from the shore, it would be prudent to give this locality a good
berth in passing.
LIOHTHOUSE, — Sagami misaki, the western cape at the entrance to Uraga
Channel, was described on page 829. A 4J-fathonis patch lies 7 cables S.E.
of the North extreme. On Tsurugi saki, its S.E. point, stands a white tower,
37 ft. high, showing a flashing light every 10 seconds, elevated 110 ft, and
visible 16 miles. The light is bright seaward between W. by S. and N.E. ^E.,
and red over Plymouth Rocks between N.E. J E. and N.E. by N. J N.
Kaneda Bay, between Sngami misaki and Senda saki, is 4 miles wide, and
affords excellent anchorage with winds from South, round by West and North,
to N.E., in 10 to 3 fathoms, sand, good holding ground. Oki-no sima, 3 ft.
above high water, is a black rock in the S.W. portion of the bay, with foul
ground between it and the shore. Mits iso, a cluster of rocks three-quarters
of a mile from the northern shore of the bay, cover at high water. A 6-ft.
shoal lies W. by S. ^ S. 7 cables from the southern of these rooks, and another
of 9 ft. lies W. by S. i S., nearly 1 mile from the same rock. These dangers
necessitate great caution when anchoring.
Ashika sima, or Plymouth Rocks, are two dark rocks 5 ft. above high water,
lying N.E. i N., 5J miles, from Sagami misaki, and S. by W. J W., 3|- miles,
from Kuwan-on saki lighthouse. Kata sima, awash, lies S.E. by I<]. \ E.,
n; nrly 1 cable, from the eastern rock, and was marked by a red beacon.
Senda saki shows in steep white cliffs, the termination of the range from
Take yania. It has a dismantled fort at the summit of the cliffs, and is sur-
rounded by detached rocks, the eastern portion projecting out in a spit, the
outer eogc, of 21 ft., lying E. by S. J S., t> cables, from the point, leaving only
a passage of 3 cables between " ■•. and Ashika sima. The outer detached rock,
awash, lies S.S.W., 9^ cables, from Sendu saki.
North Pacifle, 6 o
Ml
834
THE JAPANESE ARCHIPELAGO.
Kurihama, the bay North of Scnda saki, is foul, and has a sandy ^eaoh at
its head, the end of a long plain which is drained by a river running into a
lagoon. Kadiuta taki, the North point of this bay, is terminated by a conical
mound, Shtndora, 69 ft. high, from which a ledge of rocks extends S.E. ^ S.,
4^ cables. From this to Tomio saki the ground is foul nearly 4 cables off shore.
Uraga,* a thriving village, and clearance port of the junk trade to Tokio
(Yedo), has a good harbour for vessels drawing less than 9 ft. Tomio laki, the
South point of entrance, is low, with a Japanese lighthouse and a memorial
stone near its extreme, which, when in line, lead clear of Ka yama or Elmstone
Rock, o dangerous 12- ft. rock, lying nearly 1 mile S. by W. J W. from Kuwan-
on saki lighthouse. A 12-ft. shoal ties E. \ S., 3 cables from the light, and
there is less than 3 fathoms ut 150 yards S.E. from it.
Mioj'in aakit the North point, is a bold bluff, surmounted by a battery. From
it to Kuwan-on saki the land is undulating, with villages in sandy bays. The
whole of this coast is foul for half a mile from the shore. Ashika sima kept
bearing S.W. by S. ^ S., until Kuwan-on saki light bears N.N.W., will lead
clear eastward of Ka yama.
LIOHTHOUSE, — Kmoan-on saki, or Kanon taki, is a steep headland, over
which is a conical hill 272 ft. high. On the slope of this hill is a square white
lighthouse, 51 ft. high, showing a. fixed bright light, elevated 178 ft., and visible
14 miles. A rtd ray is shown from the same lantern between South and S. by
W. i W. over Plymouth Kocks. Also from a window, 32 ft. below, a fixed
red light, visible 7 miles, is shown between N. ^ W. and N.N.E. over Sara-
toga Spit.
YEDO BAY is about 28 miles deep in a N.E. and S.W. direction, 20 miles
wide at its broadest part, with excellent holding ground, and capable of shel-
tering the fleets of the world. A careful attention to the lead will give warn-
ing of the approach to the margin of the bank of fine sand which skirts its
shores.
From Kuwan-on saki lighthouse to Rubicon Point, a mile distant, the coast is
slightly indented, having sandy bays between the points. Eocks extend 1 cable
off Rubicon Point. 0-tsu-no ura is a deep bay with a sandy beach, having
numerous villogcs. There is shallow water in its eastern portion, the outer
Bhool of 12 ft. lying N.W. by W. ^ W., 8f cables from Rubicon Point. In
the centre of the bay is a shoal, 4^ cables long nnd 3 cables broad, having 9
feet on the North and 13 ft. on the South edge, with depths of 2^ to 4^
fathoms between. The North edge lies S. ^ E., 4 cables from Saru sima.
Saru sima, or Perry Island, 198 ft. high, is cliffy, with a wooded flat sum-
* Vraga or Heception Bay is remarkable as the place whore the American Bqiiadron first
had communication with the envoys of the Japanese Emperor, July 14, 1863, which led to
the treaties opening the country to foreign commerce, (boo Narrative of tho American
Squadron, under Commodore M. C. Perry, XJ.S.N., 1866, pp. 266—303).
YEDO BAY-YOKOSKA IIARBOUll.
835
mit, nnd hns slioni \ratcr all round it. Kitsne no te, E. by S. ^ S., S} cables
from tliu South point, is a rock, covering at high water, nnd West, 3 cables
from the same, lio three rocks, awash at high water. Between these rocky
patches there is shallow water. No vessel should attempt to pass between
Hnna-reto and Saru sima.
Ilana-rete, 94 ft. high, to the N.W. of Saru simn, is a green conical mound,
sloping down to dark rugged rocks. Between it and the western end of
O-tsu-no ura the coast is composed of a scries of white cliiTs, with shingly
beaches intervening. Ko-naga ura. South of Ilnna-rete, is a deep bay, off the
South point of which is a conical islet 78 ft. high, 3^ cables S.K. by S. ^ S.
from which lies a rock, dry at low water, with foul ground between it nnd the
shore. A rock, awash at low water, with a red beacon on it surmounted by n
cnge, lies N.E. by K., 3j^ cables from Katshiriki, the North point of the bay.
^\<8scls should not attempt to pass inside it.
TOKOSEA HABBOUB, over 1 mile in depth, with a general breadth of 3^
cables, is the eastern of two large inlets, and may be easily recognised by lla
sima, 144 ft. high, off its N.E. point, nnd by a remarkable clump of trees, 365
fuct above the sea, known as Azuma, on the highest hill of the promontory
8cpctwcen N.W, by
ancse empire, is
hich it extends,
nted to 974,081.
ber and elevated
cs alco interpose
2rs on the shore,
e surrounded by
b of Shinagawa
leights of Goten
is about 1^ mile
ay station, close
il Navy Depart-
!e, West of the
itwardofOdiwara,
ra on tbo East to
6 milea square,
lame of Yedo was
o, or the Weatem
YEDO DAY— TOKIO.
The sinnll river Sumiila gawa, which flows through the centre of Tokio,
splits into two streams, flowing southward for about 2 miles through the ex.
tensive mud-flats which nearly fill up the head of tbo bay fronting the city ;
boats and small junks can use these channels.
Light. — On the West side of the fort, at the entrance to the western or
Tsukiji Channel, ajixtd rtd light is shown, elevated 62 ft., and visible miles
between E.S.E. and N. by K. } K.
The bay fronting the city is very shoal, a bank of loss than 3 fathoms water
on it extending from 2 to 3 miles from tlic shore, and in some parts even a
ship's boat could not approach the shoro within a mile at low water. The best
anchorage for a large vessel is in 5 to G fathoms, soft mud, good holding ground,
with the white lighthouse on the middle fort bearing N.W. I N., distant 3 j
miles ; smaller vessels may anchor nearer the fort on tho same bearing, but nt
2 miles from tho fort tho depths shual suddenly from 3^ to 2 fathoms.
The Coast from Tone gawn Point round tho head of Yedo Bay is low, with
shoal water extending a considerable distance off it, nnd forms » deep bay with
7 to 13 fathoms. Bamhu hana, about 8 miles S.K. from Kuwa saki, is low,
and from hence the low coast trends in a southerly and south-westerly direction
fou* 1 2 miles, and is si il from 1 i^ to 2 miles off shore.
Fatsu saki is a low sandy point, having a fort at its high-water line, 8 miles
S.W. from Band/u h na. From its extreme, sands, which dry at low water,
stretch out in a narroy bctn-een the point and
Uki sima, a rocky islet 150 ft. high to the southward, as foul ground exists
there. This bay will be readily recognised from a distaucc, s it is the sen-
shore of a valley between the Miogani yama and Svcno yama ranges, and two
small hills are in the centre of it.
In making the western board, the foul ground in Kancda Bjiy, and off the
coast thence to Ku\van-on snki, must be remembered. The s'lore of Kadsusa
I'ay, northward of the Miogani yama range, may be approached by the lead,
tacking in 5 fathoms.
If unable to fetch Kuwan-on saki on the starboard tack, be careful to tack
short of the bearing for clearing the Ka yama, page 834. Short tacks should
be made when to windward of Kuwan-on saki, not shoaling towards the oppo-
site or Kadsusa shore to less than 9 fathoms. When Saru sima bears W. by S.,
stand no farther eastward than to brinjf Kuwan-on saki to bear S. i E., until
Saru sima is S.W. ^ W., when Saratoga Spit will have been weathered. At
night do not bring the light off Treaty I'oint to bear West of N. by W. ^ W.,
until Kuwan-on saki light bears S. ^ E. Long boards may now be again made,
but do not shoal on cither lack to less than 5 fathoms, nor off Yokohama Bluff
to less than 7 fathoms. There ure sonie shoal patches of 3 J to 5 fathoms, sand
and mud, off the western side o?. tho bay between Saru sima and Mississippi
Bay, but none arc known at a greater distance off than 2 miles, and they may
be avoided by not bringing Saru sima to bear eastward of South.
The Tides are much affected by the winds, but both flood and ebb swoep
with great velocity round Saratoga Spit. The flood runs N.W. by W., and
the ebb S.W. by S., about 3J knots nn hour at springs. Generally the flood
stream sets a vessel on to the western shore.
VOLCANIC ISLETS, SOUTH-EAST OF JAPAN.
A very remarkable range of dotached Islets and rocks extends for about 300
miles in a S. by E. direction from Vries Island, at the entrance of the Gulf of
Yedo. There is no portion of the ocean which has been more misrepresented
than this in our older works, and the great number of supposed discoveries
rendered the charts so confused that no adequate idea could be gained of their
number or arrangement. The author endeavoured, in 1858, to reconcile these
vague surmises and great discrepancies, so as to give a more correct represent
tation of their real character.*
* So3 Tfansactions of tho UriUah Association, 185d.
North i'acific.
5p
,1 I ' '
m
liii
li!! I
842
niE JAPANESE ARCHIPELAGO.
This geographical confusion arose, no doubt, from the unsuspected influence
of the great Japanese current, which rushes through the group with exagger-
ated and uncertain velocity, and thus affecting the dead reckoing of many or
most of the ships which announced discoveries, ~nost of which are to the east-
ward of the true positions. It will be unnecessory to discuss these varying
accounts, since they are now in a great measure rcco'.icilcd by exact observa-
tions ; and this is of the greatest importance, seeing that the large commerce
between China, Japan, and North-Western America, passes through these
channels. What follows will, therefore, be confined to a brief description of
whnt is well ascertained, connected with an identification, when possible, with
what has been but vaguely sui-mised.
These islands arc all bold-to, some appearing to rise like a wall from thr
depths of the ocean, and they have but few outlying hidden dangers. '1%^
lead, therefore, in foggy weather, will give little or no warning, as in jme
cases no soundings will bo obtained with 150 fathoms of line within half a mile
of the shore.
7'he Currents, also, in thia part of the Japan Streuxn, are influenced by the
prevailing winds ; heavy current-rips, being of very com;non occurrence, have
often been mistaken for shoals. These rips are more constantly met with close
to the islands and rocks than otherwise. It may be well to bear in mind that
in calms, althoiigh the stream may appear to be hurrying the vessel on to an
island, if the island be steep it will always turn to the right or left on approach-
ing within a certain distance of the rocks ; not so, however, should shallow
water extend any distance, when the anchor must be depended on.
The usual set of the current through tliese islands is north-easterly, and the
rate ranges from 1 J to 3 knots, but the islands frequently deflect it from its
course, and the eddies always found on the margin of great currents are here
particularly numerous and active. Close to Fatsizio and Vries Islands, at less
than a third of a mile off", a regular change of tii .1 stream \a.s been observed,
and also between these islands and the coast.
As above stated, in their vicinity, in fact throughout the path of the Japan
current from the South end of Formosa to Pehring Strait, constant heavy tide-
rips will be encountered, which, in light winds, frequently render a vessel for
a time unmanageable. (See note on page 82G).
00 SIHA, or Vries Island, is the northernmost of these islands. It is au
active volcano, and Krusenstein applied the name of Vries Island to it, to
distinguish it from that to the south-westward. On Von Siebold's chart it is
called Barneveld Island. Its S.E. point is in lat. 34° 40' N., long. 139= 25f E.;
its N.W. point is a blufl", 350 ft. high. The island is oval shaped, about 9
miles in extent N.W. by N. i N. and S.E. by S. J S., and 5 miles wide, and
its summit, Mihara, attains an elevation of 2,550 ft. Miliara is an active vol-
cano, over which a white vapour cloud is generally floating, and frequently, at
night, it brightly reflects the glare of the subterranean fires in the crater be-
i^Uj^
VOLCANIC ISLETS SOUTH OF YKDO GULF.
843
ing, as in jmc
itbin half a mile
nenth, forming in clear weather a conspicuous landmark, visible by night or
day for many miles.
There arc several villages on the island, and a population of about 5,000.
The coast is free of all danger, with the exception of a few detached rocks and
boulders lying close to it. The principal village is on the North side, off
which n narrow bank affords a precarious anchorage in 12 to 18 fathoms.
Another considerable village, having the advantage of a junk harbour, is
situated at the S.K. point. Landing may be effected at the North village, or
in the junk harbour. The inhabitants were civil and hospitable, but averse to
strangers visiting the volcano. The Broken Islat t j^.oint. It is about 5 miles in diameter, and according to
Broughton well cultivated, and covered with verdure to the summit.
Onohara is a small group, 5 miles W.S.W. of Miaki. It is composed of n
cluster of seven or eight high detached rocky pinnacles, the centre one being
perforated in two places. When beaiing from E.N.E. to N.E., they appear
us one islet.
Mikora, or Prince Island of Do Yries, is also high, its summit being in lat.
33° 62' N., long. 139° 35' E. Von Siebold marks it as the Ongelukkig Eyland
of De Vries.
BROUGHTON ROCK, or Kanawa, in lat. 33° 39' N., long. 139° I7f E., is
a small inaccessible islet about CO ft. high, flat topped, and so bold that at
about a third of a mile from its N.E. side no soundings could be obtained with
1 80 fathoms line. The northerly current in its neighbourhood was found to
be particularly strong, running nearly 4 knots an hour.
FATSIZIO ISLAND, or Ilachijo, the most southern of the islands visited
by the Aclceon, is 8 J miles long, N.W. by N. and S.E. by S., and 4 miles wide
nt its broadest part. In shape it is nearly oblong, rounded at the N.W. cud,
while at its S.E. end a slight curve forms a bay, the observation spot in which,
close to some small huts, is ir. lat. 33° 4' 24" N., long. 139° 50' 24" E. Anchor-
age was obtained off this b: y in 16 fathoms, sand and gravel, at less than a
mile from the shore, but raite exposed from S.S.W. to N.N.E., and a vessel
would always be liable to experience a heavy swell. Tliere was 30 fathoms,
dark sand, at about 2 miles off this shore, but the rest of the coast appeared to
share the bold features and to be as stecp-to as the generality of these islands.
This island is n penal settlement of Japan. Its highest part is the northern,
where a mountain reaches an elevation of 2,840 ft. At the base of this moun-
tain, aud creeping up for some distance on its West side, is an extensive settle-
ment, while in several places along both shores arc found little hamlets and
villages, so that the island would appear to support a considerable population.
A tract of low land in the centre of, and extending across, the island is well
cultivated. To the southward of this the land again assumes a considerable
elevation, but does not reach the altitude of the northern part.
s
li|^i«wi« I .-
am
VOLCANIC ISLETS SOUTH OF YEDO GULF.
845
it. There is said
>atch, but except in
o attempt passing
•roaching this dnn-
inity would not be
)out N. by E., and
)f this island, 2,690
d Krnndten Eyland
; about 2 miles to
rocks 2 or 3 miles
and according to
summit.
is composed of a
centre one bein"'
N.E., they appear
mmit being in Lit.
Ongelukkicf Eylaml
g. 139M7f E., is
d so bold that at
I be obtained with
ood was found to
the islands visited
. and 4 miles wide
»t the N.W. end,
ion spot in which,
>' 24" E. Anchor-
1. at less than a
E., and a vessel
was 30 fathoms,
;onst a])pcarcd to
of these islands.
; is the northern,
ise of this moun-
extensive settlc-
tle hamlets and
able population.
B island is mxII
a considerable
At the S.F. end of Fatsizio arc two or three small streams of delicious water
falling down the rocks, and in smooth water boats may readily obtain an
abundant supplj . It is high water, on full and change, at & ; springs rise 5 ft.
Eodzine is a small and nearly oral-shaped island, 1,820 ft. high, 1^ mile
long, lying 2 miles westward of the highest part of Fatsizio. Some small
rocks, as is also the case with Fatsizio, are found quite close inshore, but no
off-lying dangers are at present known. A small population is to be found on
the lower part of the island.
The islands southward of Fatsizio were visited by the U.S.S. Alert, 1880,
and some of the following information is taken from Commander Huntington's
report.
AOGA, OnangO sima, or South Island, is a Dutch discovery verified by
Colnett, and according to Commander Huntington is in lat. 32° 28J' N., long.
139° 43J' E. It is about 1,000 ft. high, of irregular volcanic formation, 3
miles long by 1 mile wide. Its coasts are steep, and the only landing place is
on the N.E. side, near a sharp rock, 8 ft. above high water, lying nt a little
distance from th° land. The landing place can easily be distinguished by some
huts in the vicinity, but landing can only be effected in the native boats, on
account of the constant heavy surf. The island contains about 200 or 300 in-
habitants, the descendants of Japanese criminals. The North and N.W. sides
of the island are cultivated with barley, peas, beans, sweet potatoes, and radish,
upon which, with fish, these poor people subsist ; they have also a few cattle^
and grow a little tea. There is very little timber. There are no springs, their
water being supplied by frequent rains, and that is scarcely fit to drink. The
people are much in want of food, clothes, fishing tackle, &c.
BAYONNAISE KOCKS, in lat. 31° 55' 15" N., long. 139° 54' 18" E., were
seen by Capt. J. de la Graviure, in the French corvette La Bayonnaise, May
31, 1850, and his description accords with that of Koning Willem III. Island,
by Capt. Ilouckgecst, mentioned below. They are a group of sharp-pointed
rocks, elliptical in form, 2 cables long. North and South, with several hum-
mocks, the northern and highest summit boi"- ubout 30 ft. above the sea ;
several rocks extend a quarter of a mile off the N.W. and N.E. sides. Sound-
ings were obtained by the Alert, within a quarter of a mile of these rocks.
Bayonnaise Eocks arc probably .ae same as Koning Willem III. Island,
Been, if not discovered, by Capt. Ilouckgecst, in the Netherlands brig Koerier,
August 24, 1849, ■■ k' placed by him in lat. 31° 52' 48', long. 139° 68' 4G".
They were also seen from the Elizabeth Kimball, in May, 18G3, and her com-
mander states that at 7 miles W.S.W. of the rocks the bottom was plainly
visible in about 5 fathoms. Numerous other reports of rocks and reefs have
been made in this locality, as described in the previous edition of this work,
which may refer to this group, or have been owing to volcanic agency.
SMITH ISLAND, the next to the southward, was reported by Capt. Smith,
of the Heber. It was first seen in March, 18^0, during a gale of wind; and
'¥.-'.,^
I. I
■ t
3l
1
Jill'
I
S4d
THE JAPANESE ARCHIPELAGO.
on the return voyage, in December, 1846, a boat was sent alongside during n
calm. He placed it in lat. 31° 12', long. 139° 55', and stated it to be of a
needle shape, and probably 300 ft. high, but not more than 250 ft. in diameter
nt the base, surrounded by smaller peaks beneath the surface. Capt. Stickncy,
of the barque Sarah Warren, states that at a short distance East of it was a
rock, on which the sea broke furiously.
H.M.S. Tribune passed it January 18, 1859, the position being given as lat.
31° 18' N., long. 139° 50' E. It was described as a high pinnacle-looking
rock, about three-quarters of a mile in circumference, with heavy breakers
extending apparently a quarter of a mile from it, and a small rock close-to on
the North side. Observations made on the Alert place it in lat. 31"^ 27' 8",
long. 140° 2'; its height was estimated at about 421 ft., and no bottom was
found around it.
Capt. Scott, of the ship Lucile, states that on September 26, 1879, being in
lat. 31° 33', long. 139° 38', he observed an island bearing S.E. by E. J E.,
trtie, distant 15 or 20 miles, resembling in the distance throe hummocks, the
highest to the North. This accords with the position of Smith Island, but the
a2)pearance is entirely different.
Jeannetie Island, stated to lie in lat. 31° 30', long. 140° 0', is probably the
same. Todos los Santos and San Tomas, of the old charts, may refer to this
or PonaRdin Island.
Volcano Island, reported to be 40 ft. high, is said to lit in lat. 31° 21',
long. 1 39° 53', but its existence is doubtful. This position is not far from that
in which Capt. Smith, of the Heber, and the officers of H.M.S. 'Tribune, placed
Smith Island, as described above.
San Francisco Island.— The German war-vessel Ilertha, in 1875 arid 1876,
jinssed an island described as small and steep, with a rock about 2 cables from
its S.E. side. The position assigned to this island is lat. 31° 29' N., long.
140° 14' E., but it was not seen by the Alert.
'i'hcrc is still some amount of imcertainty about the last three islands ; it is
possible that active volcanic agency may account for this. In 1870 a volcanic
disturbance was observed at 4 miles N.E. by N. of Smith Island.
FONAFIDIN, or St. Peter Island, was discovered in 1820 by the Kussinn
lieutenant of that name, who gave it the name of Three Hills Island, from its
having apparently three hummocks. According to Commander Huntington,
of the Alert, it is of volcanic formation, about IJ mile long. East and West,
nnd rises to a height of 1,176 ft., in lat. 30° 28' 26' N., long. 140° 14' 12" E.
It is uninhabited, and its shores appear rugged and inaccessible. On its N.E.
side is a small cove, named Junk Cove, where the party landed through the
Burf. This cove is only open to winds between North and East, and junks
might find it safe to anchor here, but a large vessel would hardly find room to
swing. The depth gradually decreases from 10 fathoms at the entrance. There
is no timber or water. Gulls were very numerous.
\
VOLCANIC IPLETS SOUTH OF YEDO GULP.
847
A steamer caught in a gale in the vicinity of Ponafidin or Aoga simn, could
obtain shelter by keeping close under their lee.
LOT'S WIFE, Bioa de Oro, or Blank Rock, according to observations on
the Alert, is in lat. 29° 46' 28' N., long. 140° 19 J' E. It is a tall pinnacle,
rising about 466 ft. above the sea, and bearing a remarkable resemblance to a
ship under all sail. No tottom at 20 fathoms was found within 30 ft. of it,
but a rock lies off the western extreme. The current was setting to the S.E.,
causing a tide-rip.
This very extraordinary rock is thus supposed to bo correctly placed on the
chart, but it has been the subject of much doubt and uncertainty. In 1821,
Lieutenant Povalichin, of the Kussian Navy, discovered a rock of the form of
a truncated cone, in lat. 30° 3i'. In 1853, Capt. Somcrby, of the barque
2i:ibelita ITyne, discovered a black rock in lat. 29° 42', long. 140° 15', about
200 ft. high, and 100 ft. in diameter, with quite perpendicular sides. Ho
called it Black Rock. It was seen by the Linda, in 1851, by which it is placed
in lat. 29= 42', long. 140° 31', and was thought to be like a ship. It was also
seen by the Macedonia and Vincennes, of the U.S. Surveying Expedition, and
was placed in lat. 29° 47', long. 140° 22' 30'. Its altitude was calculated to
be 299 ft., and its base 40 lect.
Captain John Meares, well known in the history of early discoveries in tho
North Pacific, pabsed this, or a similar rock, when in command of the Felice,
April 9th, 1788. LiV.e most others who first saw it, he took it for a first-rato
man-of-war, under a crowd of sail. " It obtained the name of Lot's Wife, and
is one of the most wonderful objects, taken in all its circumstances, whicli I
ever beheld. The waves broke against its rugged fjont with a fury propor-
tioned to the immense distance they had to roll before they were interrupted
by it. It rose almost perpendicular to the height of nearly 350 ft. A small
black rock appeared just above the water at about 40 or 50 yards from its
western edge. There was a cavern on its S.E. side, into which the waters
rolled with an awful and tremendous noise." — Meares, p. 97.
Its position, as stated by Meares, was erroneous, in consequence of no allow-
ance being made for the strong easterly drift, unsuspected by him. It is also
the same as the Haystack of Krusenstern, and the Rica de Oro of the old
charts.
The continuation of this line of volcanic eruptive rocks, through the Volcano
and Bonin Islands, &c., will be described hereafter.
THE EAST COAST OF NIPON.
From Nosima saki (p. 831) the coast trends 3 miles eastward to Siamatsu,
thence N.E. to Cape Erratatsi (Cape King), and thence N.E. by l"!., about 30
miles, to Iwa-wada, whence it trends North, 8 miles, to Ohigasi saki (Capo
Blanco). The shore is wild and rock-bound j between Mela Head and Capo
BWHi
mmm
848
THE JAPANESE ARCHIPELAGO.
I
1 1
1 j
m
['
;' )
p
■1
^ :
1 *
■
i
'
;-
1
Ml'
1
If
i. !
■ • III
King there arc no cliffis, but between Capus King and Blanco the projecting
points arc generally rugged cliffs of yellow clay or gi-avel ; the high land ter-
minating near Ohigasi saki in a long-backed hill with two thumb-shaped pia-
nacles, fronted by a bold chalky cliff.
This coast is frequently obscured by fog, and is difficult to identify from the
eastward, and vessels approaching from that direction are liable to be set out
of their reckoning by the Japan Stream. The temperature of the sea often
affords a useful guide, and the soundings give timely warning. In the summer
months there are generally heavy breakers along this coast. Mela Head often
shows out in relief, when all the coast eastward is obscured by fog.
A vessel entering Ycdo Gulf from the eastward will nearly always experience
a current against her off Mela Ledge, of 2 to 4 knots in summer. From No
sima to Iwa-wada the current is weak inshore, and vessels making for the gulf
should keep as near the coast as safety will permit, that is \i mile off.
CAFE EBBATATSI or King has over it a wooded peak, Takaska yamn,
759 ft. high, a useful landmark, it being the highest summit of the Mela pro-
montory. Rocks extend 5 cables N.E. by N. from the cape. North of tho
cape temporary anchoroge may be had in 8 fathoms, sand, sheltered from
westerly winds. To the S.E. of the small village iu the centre the depths are
irregular and shallow. At the North end of the bay is a cultivated wooded
hill, about 4 miles from which is a low point with a village on it. A rock,
awash at low water, lies 5 J cables off this point, Kitsu Point bearing N.E. J E.,
distant If mile.
Eitsn ura. — Kitsti Point, the West extreme of Kitsu ura, is a broken rocky
point, with two rocks close off it. The bay is very deep, and is the only point
on this coast not protected by a bank of soundings. A large village is situated
on the eastern shore. A peak, 1,341 ft. high, situated N.E. of Kitsu ura, is tho
highest land between Cape King and Inu-bo-ye saki. A rock, 5 ft. high, lies
1 njile N.E. J N. from Kitsu Point ; and 100 yards E.S.E. from the rock are
several rocky heads.
Ko minato Point, 5 miles E.N.E. of Kitsu Point, is the West extreme of a
line of cliffs, and has off it some detached pillar-shaped rocks. From hence
the coast continues cliffy as far as Ohigasi saki, and skirted by reefs, through
which are channels to numerous sheltered anchorages for junks. At Naming'
awa, 2 miles E. by N. from Ko minato Point, the fishermen exhibit occasion*
oily a fixed bright light.
TCATSU UBA, about IJ mile eastward of Naming-awa, is the only harbour
between Mela Head and 8endai Bay affording temporary protection, for steamers
only, from easterly winds ; the holding grouud is not good, and the anchorage
is limited, a rocky 2-fathoms shoal lying near the centre. There are several
fishing villages here, where fish, fowls, and water may be procured.
Hachimann saki, a narrow cliffy promontory, forms the eastern side of tho
liarbour, ond irregular depths extend nearly 1 mile South of the point, and
r
NIPON ISLAND— INU-IJO-YE SAKI.
849
some rocks Ho 2 cables N.N. W. of it. To enter, steer in for the centre of the
sandy bench at its head, bearing N. by E. f E., until the highest part of the
reef N.N.W. of Hachimann saki bears S.W. J W., distant about 2J cables,
when anchor in 7 fathoms, sand. It is high water, on full und change, at
about S*" 10" ; springs rise C'i ft., neaps 4 ft.
Rocks and foul ground extend 8 cables o£f shore, 1 mile Enst of Hachimann
saki. Iwa-wada Point lies 4 miles N.E. f E. from Hachimann saki, and when
making for Katsu ura from the eastward, care must be taken not to mistake it
for the latter point. Tide-rips and overfalls are frequent off Iwa-wada. From
hence the coast trends N. by E., 4 miles, to Ko-hama, consisting of bold, steep,
stratified cliffs.
Ohigasi or Daito saki, a bold wooded headland, 7 miles North of Iwa-
wada, is the northern termination of the cliffy const, which is here of a whitish
colour, with several rocky pinnacles about 1 cable ofiF. There is good holding
ground, with westerly winds, in 4 to 7 fathoms, mud and sand, with the
northern cliff bearing southward of West. From Ohigasi saki the coast trends
33 miles north-eastward, forming an open sandy bay as far as the cliffs of
luu-bo-ye saki.
INU-BO-YE SAKI, a projecting rocky headland with a smooth bare sum-
mit, 242 ft. high, stands out in bold relief. Its South shore is a black cliff,
about 140 ft. high ; the S.E. point is low, and foul ground extends 4 cables
from it. Thence the shore trends northward, 3 miles, to a pillar-shaped rock,
and thence N.W. to the mouth of the Tone gawa, rocky lodges extending 3
to 4 cables off it. There is temporary anchorage in 4 fathoms, sand, 2 miles
West of the S.E. point.
LIGHTHOUSE.- On the S.E. extreme of Inu-bo-ye saki is n white tower,
103 ft. high, showing a revolvin;/ briyht light, attaining its greatest brilliancy
every half minute, elevated 1G8 ft., and visible 19 miles seaward between
N. f W. and W.S.W. Lat. 35° 43' 30" N., long. 140° 51' 32' E.
The Japanese steam-vessel Meji Mam, in swinging to her anchor off Inu-
bo-ye saki, recently struck on a 15-ft. pinnacle rock. The vessel is said to
have frequently anchored on the same bearings, and the master was of opinion
that the rock had been thrown up during a recent earthquake. The vessel
was anchored in 6 J fathoms, at IJ mile from the beach, with the lighthouse
bearing N.E. by N. i N. ; West end of small island, N.W. by N. ; East end
of reef, E. by N. ; Black Hocks, N. i 'E,.— U.S. Hydrot/raphio Notice, 1880.
The Tone gawa is the outfall of a series of streams and lakes, the waters of
which take their rise not far from Tokio. Only the smallest craft can cross
the bar at high water and in fine weather. There is a pilot-office at Choosi,
on the South bank, and here there is a population of about 25,000, chiefly
fishermen. There is daily postal communication with Tokio by means of steam
launches. Firewood and charcoal are plentiful,
North Pacijic. 5 -
\m
'.vl
'-r
8<0
THE JAPANESE ARCHIPELAGO.
.1 1
• i ill
:| '
There is anchorage, during westerly winds, in 6 fathoms, sand, at 7 cablet
northward of the entrance, but it cannot be recommended.
The Coast from Tone gawa to Machama, 35 miles northward, is wooded,
and from hence to Kawajiri, a fishing village 18 miles farther northward, the
shore is bounded by low cliffs. North of Kawajiri the hill ranges commence.
There are no known anchorages between Kawajiri and Scndai Bay, a distance
of about 110 miles. Toyoma Potnl, about 80 miles northward of the Tone gawa,
is said to have a dangerous reef extending 2^ miles K.S.E. of it.*
SENDAI BAT, in lat. 38° 20' N., lies between Matsu sima on the West and
Amitsu-hama Island on the East, about 20 miles apart. The land surrounding
it is mountainous, and in places thickly wooded. The sharp wooded summit
of Kingkasau Island is conspicuous. Large fishing "look-outs" i>rc often
found moored in the bay. Care is necessary in approaching the group of
wooded islands and rocks off Matsu sima Bay, in the N.W. corner of Scndai
liay, as reefs and rocks extend off them to a considerable distance. There is
said to be an indraught into the bay. At 10 miles inland there is: a high,
easily-recognisable mountain, about 4,600 ft. high, in about lat. 39° 28' N.,
long. 141° 41' E. ; imfortunutcly it is frequently obscured by clouds.
Matsu sima Bay is extensive but shallow. In its southern entrance, which
is obstructed by low reefs and sunken rocks, is the villoge of Sahusawa and
the small port of Ishibama, where small steam-vessels call. The northern
entrance to the bay, 4 miles to the northward, is completely blocked up by a
sand-bank, but good shelter for two or three vessels may be obtained, off it in
5 or 6 fathoms, mud, open only to the East. When making for this bight a
remarkable pinnacle rock, about 60 ft. high, with trees on its summit, stands
off the coast, ond there is a reef of rocks just northward of it. Anchorage may
be obtained with north-westerly winds, northward of this pinnacle rock, in
about 6 fathoms.
Kita Kami River, the largest of two rivers in the northern part of Sendai
Bay, is said to be navigable for junks for 70 miles, and boats can reach
Moriofca, 120 miles distant. A. fixed bright lantern light, elevated 52 ft., and
visible 6 miles, is shown from a white staff on the East side of the entrance ;
but it can with difficulty be distinguished from the lights of the village,
Ishinomaki, and the junks.
At 3^ miles eastward of the entrance is the fishing village of Watanoka,
situated on the western entrance to an extensive basin.
Amitsu-hama Islaad is rocky, and rises in bare hills ; it has deep water on
* Arkold Sock, reported by the Russian frigate Arkold, in 1859, to lie in lat. 36° 16' K.,
long. 141* 28' E., was again reported in thick weather, by the Russian war-vessol Sibole,
in 1870, about 11 miles southward of the spot in which it was first reported ; it was said to
be 20 ft. high. This danger has been searched for, and its position passed, by several of
H.M. ships, but no signs of it were seen. It has been removed from the charts.
NIPON ISLAND— KINGKASAN ISLAND.
801
its N.E. side, but a reef extends some distance off its S.E. point. Depths of
16 to 19 fathoms will be found between the island and Nagasnma, nud anchor-
age for largo vessels may bo obtained in 12 to 9 fathoms, sand, off its North
end. Aikawa, the second bay on the mainland, abreast the North end of Na-
gasama Island, is half a mile wide, affording anchorage in 7 to 9 fathoms, mud.
This boy may be recognised by its having the only white sandy beach in the
vicinity, and from a wooded islet lying off its northern point. This is a safe
anchorage, and the first sheltered spot for vessels bound northward from Ycdo
Gulf. It is easy of access, the entrance being between the cape West of
Kingkasan and the S.K. point of Amitsu-hama, off both of which there are
reefs. The reef projecting 3 cables from the southern cape is dangerous, as
the sea breaks on it only when there is a heavy swell.
Both these anchorages afford shelter from North and East winds, but a heavy
sea is thrown in by winds from East to N.W.
Nagasama and Tastro, two islets north-westward of Amitsu-hama, lie N.W.
and S.E. of each other, and arc about 150 ft. high, Tasiro being the southern, and
connected with Amitsu-hama by a reef. Off the S.E. end of Tasiro is a small
islet, and a single rock, which dries, lies 2 cables East of the southern e.xtremo
of Nngasama.
KIXOKASAN, or Goldmine Island, is bold, rising In a wooded peak, 1,000
feet high. It may be passed close-to, but the depth between it and the shore
is only 3 fathoms ; there is anchorage ok, the South side of the narrows. The
island is resorted to by pilgrims, it being dedicated to religious purposes.
Deer are numerous, and are considered sacred. Mica is found in large quan-
tities.
LIGHTHOUSE.— On its East side is a granite tower, 40 ft. high, showing a
fixed bright light, elevated 178 ft., and visible 19 miles seaward between
N. by E. and S.W. i W.
Fog Signal. — In foggy weather a steam Siren will sound a blast of 6 seconds
in every minute.
The Coast between Kingkasan and Yamada, a distance of 70 miles, is at
present but little known. It presents a deeply-indented outline, probably con-
cealing some fine harbours, those of Kama-i-shi and Odzutsu being the only
ones known. The shores appear high and bold, and arc apparently thinly
populated, fishing-boats being seen only off Simidzu. It is not recommended
to pass inside Hira sima, Asi sima, and their contiguous groups, lying north*
Ward of Kingkasan.
EAMA-I-SHI HAHBOXTB, in lat. 39° 16 J' N., is a spacious inlet, a little
over 1 mile wide at its entrance, and extends 2 miles westward, affording a
secure sheltered anchorage. Its shores are broken and rocky, forming several
bays, that in the N.W. comer being the largest ; at its head is a sandy beach,
at the North extreme of which is the town of Kama-i-shi, where fish, fruit,
fowls, and water can be obtained. Kama-i-shi is more easy of access to a
1 1
852
THE JAPANESE ARCHIPELAGO.
sailing vessel tlmn Yamada Ilurbour, 10 miles to the northward. It is not an
open port, and nt present there is no traffic whatever. At about 10 miles inland
is a district abounding in iron ore of good quality, which will probably soon
bo worked by tho Government. A railway is ia course of construction, as also
a pier in connection therewith.
Malaga saki, tho northern entrance point, is faced with cliffs, and rooks ex*
tend 3 cables off it. There arc two roeka near the centre of the harbour, about
onc'third of a cable apart ; tho northern has a depth of 6 ft. at low water, and
tho southern 2 ft. A black buoy ia moored on tho North sido of tho North
rock ; the southern rock is marked by a red beacon, an iron post, surmounted
by a cage over a triangle. Vessels must not pass eastward of tho beacon.
When entering, pass midwny between Matngn saki and the southern shore,
until tho town opens out and the red beacon bears N.W. by W., when houl up
for it, and steer for tho town, passing about 1 cable South of the beacon.
Sangan tima, about 3 miles N.E. of the entrance to Kama-i-shi Harbour, is
about half a mile long, with a wooded summit, and lies about three-quarters
of a mile off tho coast. On its S. W. part arc some whito quartz boulders, and
also on the cape N.W. of the island.
ODZUTSU HARBOUB, in about lat. 39" 23' N., long. 141° 55' E., is three-
quarters of a mile wide at its entrance, opening within to a spacious double
bay, nearly 3 miles in depth W.S.W. and E.N.E. In tho northeni bay is the
village of Oikutsu, on the North e' ore, and on the sandy beach at its head that
of Kirikiri. Kcefs extend half a mi> *- more north-eastward of the southern
cnti'ance point, and on the southern siciu v > peninsula is a large island.
At nearly 6 cables West of the northern entrance. _ r int is a small islet, on
which is a ruined temple ; from it a reef extends 3 cables towards the North
shore, nearly joining it, and protecting the anchoroge off Odzutsu from any
heavy sea. Fish is plentiful.
The harbour is surrounded by high, thickly woodec! ixUls, about 1,200 ft. in
height, and is open only to winds from E.N.E., from wbi( h, however, the an-
chorage off Odzutsu is perfectly sheltered. The depib. vi'.ries from 27 fathoms
at the entrance to 11 fathoms at the anchorage, ':i>i c'.bles S.W. of Odzutsu
mole ; the holding ground, black mud, is good.
YAMADA HARBOUB, a large basin, surrounded by mountains upwards of
1,000 ft. in height, is entered by a deep broad pass, running S.W. between
high bold shores. It is a magnificent harbour, perfectly landlocked, with good
holding ground, and may be run for by a steam-vessel requiring shelter at
almost ouy time with perfect confidence, but the water is too deep for anchor-
age except off Yamada. On the North shore is the village of Osawa, South of
which, on a sandy beach at the head of the bay, is the town of Shimo Yamada.
Supplies of any sort are scarce here, and the water is bad. Oo sima and Ko
tima lie at tho head, off the mouth of tho Ori-kasa kawa ; they are surrounded
by a shoal Sal.
NIPON ISLAND— SIllIYA SWI.
88S
Appronching from scnwnril, the many iHleU South of Y^mnda render it diffi-
cult to at once make out the entrance, but either from northward or southward
« safo course will bo to steer fur the eastern extreme of tho land seen, which
will lead up to tho harbour, when a mid-channel course may bo steered for tho
anchorage in 6 fathoms, off the centre of tho town of Yamoda. In spring,
fierce gusts of wind come down off tho mountains, and it is advisable to havo
two anchors down. It is high water, ou full and change, at G** 30*" ; spiings
rise 4 feet.
Miyako Bay, 8 miles North of Yamada, is about 5 miles deep, with depths
varying from 40 fathoms at tho entrance to 5 fathoms at 1 mile from the sandy
beach at its head. An island lies 3 cables off the shore on the West side of
,the entrance, 1 mile South of which is n peninsula projecting from the western
shore, and protecting the anchorage off Miyako, South of it.
North of Miyako the coast takes a N.N.E. direction, bordered by broken
cliffs, and backed by high flat ranges, which rise to about 2,000 ft,, gradually
decreasing in elevation towards the North until about Sanemuva Point, where
it becomes low. Auro saki stands well out, and may be recognised by its small
range of hills about 700 ft. high. Two isolated mountains can bo seen behind
Hon-na-mi. The land is densely wooded.
Cape de Vries is low and flat, about 330 ft. high, and is remarkable from
the way it stands out between two bays. The Duplelx sailed along this coast
from Cape Kiori to Capo Yries, at a distance of from 2 to 4 miles, and saw no
danger except close t he shore.
SIBIYA SAKT, or Cape Namhu, the N.E. extremity of Nipon Island, is a
narrow point, trending in a N.N.E. direction ; the land for about a mile South
of the extreme point is low and flat ; it then gradually rises to a prominent
hill with a double summit, called Siriya yama (Whaleback), tho highest part,
1,321 ft., being about 2^ miles S.S.W. of the point. The coast for about 4
miles South of the point is rocky. South of which a sandy beach extends for
many miles. From the N.E., at the distance of 6 or 8 miles, the outline of
this point resembles the back of a sperm whale, with its head to the southward,
the Dodo Rocks, off the point, forming the flukes.
LIOHTHOUSE.— On Siriya saki is a white tower, 94 ft. high, showinsj a
fixed bright light, elevated 150 ft., and visible 18 miles seaward between
S.W. by W. and S. i W. Lat. 41° 26' 10" N., long. 141° 29' 25" E.
Fog Signal— In. foggy weather a steam Siren will give a blast of 6 seconds
at intervals of 1 minute. Should the Siren be out of order, a Bell will sound
continuously 15 strokes per minute.
At 3 cables N.N.E. of the point is a conspicuous rock, 60 ft. high ; there is
no passage between. Rattler Rock, awash at low water, lies 8J cables E.N.E.
of the lighthouse. In 1879 H.M.S. Charybdis reported n rock 2 miles E. by N.
of the lighthouse, but a thorough examination by H.M.S. Flying Fish failed
'^^ I
i I
i I
! '
864
THE JAPANESE AECHIPELAGO.
to find it. A narrow ledge of less than 20 fathoms, usually covered with tide-
rips and overfalls, extends about 3 miles N.N.E. of Siriya saki.
The coast, from Siriya saki, trends S.W., and for about 3J miles to Uii/a
mura is foul and rocky. At IJ mile from the point is Observatory Island, a
rocky islet, 1 cable from the shore, and 80 ft. high.
Temporary anchorage may be obtained on either side of Siriya saki ; but,
ucder any circumstances, it is a most exposed place, and great caution should
be used. On the western side good shelter may be found from all winds, ex-
cept those from West, through North, to N.E., oflF Uiya mura, in 7 or 8
fathoms, sand. On the eastern side, at 2 miles South of the point, vessels can
anchor off the sandy beach > The lead is a safe guide, and from a vessel at an-
chor in 7 to 9 fathoms the light at Siriya saki is visible. A small vessel might
anchor in 4 or 5 fathoms with good shelter.
Directions. — Vessels bound from the Gulf of Yedo to Tsugar Strait will,
after passing Mela Head, experience the full force of the J.ipan Stream setting
to the E.N.E. Having passed Mela Ledge and the shoals E.S.E. of Nosima
Point, steer along the coast at a distance of 1 J or 2 miles as far as Iwa-wada,
and thence N.E. ^ E. for Inu-bo-ye saki, passing the point at 1^ or 2 miles
distant. By keeping farther off shore, however, the Japan Stream will be
more felt, and a more rapid passage ensured. After passing Inu-bo-ye saki,
shape a course to pass at not less than 3 miles from the coast ; North of this
cape the Kuro Siwo is scarcely perceptible. This coast is known to be sub-
ject in spring to strong galea and much heavy weather.
During thick weather the bank of soundings N.E. of Iwa-wada forms a
useful guide to vessels approaching from the eastward and bound southward ;
when, during summer, keep as near the coast as safety will permit, to avoid ihc
strength of the Kuro Siwo.
Current. — The Oya Siwo flows to the southward along the N.E. coast as far
South as Inu-bo-ye saki, its average width being from 100 to 200 miles. Ou
nearing the entrance of Tsugar Strait a sudden iall may be experienced in the
temperature of the sea of from 15° to 20°, as the vessel passes from the Kuro
Siwo into this cold current.
THE STRAIT OP TSUGAR.
The ST&AIT of TSITGAE, Tsuyuru, or Sangar, separating Nipon froirt
Yezo Island, is about 40 miles in length, E.N.E. and W.S.W., and 9J miles
wide at its narrowest part. The following description is principally from the
remarks of John Richards, Master Commanding H.M.S. Saracen, who sur-
veyed the strait in 1855, and of Lieut. Hoskyn, H.M.S. Sylvta, 1882.
Winds. — Strong N.W. winds prevail in this strait during the winter, accom-
panied by snow and rain, and the weather is very boisterous. In April the
wind hauls to the westward, with heavy squalls from tho S.W. In May the
ilii^
STRAIT OP TSUGAR— CAPE YOKOISO.
855
with tidc-
s to Utya
Island, n
snki; but,
ion should
winds, ex-
in 7 or 8
•essels can
ssel at an-
ssel might
(trait will,
am setting
of Nosiina
Iwa-wada,
3r 2 miles
m will be
)o-ye saki,
•th of this
to be sub-
a forms n
outhward ;
3 avoid the
loast as far
niles. On
iced in the
the Kuro
ipon from:
i 9J miles
f from the
who sur-
2.
cr, accora-
April the
I Mav the
wind is from the southward, variable between S.W. and S.E. (sometimes more
easterly or westerly), and fine weather commences, lasting until the middle of
September, when it becomes unsettled, and summer commences to break up
with frequent gules ; winter fairly setting in in October. Dense fogs prevailed
in May and June ; after that period they are comparatively rare.
Corrent. — Through the middle of Tsugar Strait the cvirrent sets constantly
to the north-eastward, but its breadth and velocity vary considerably accord-
ing to the wind and weather. Before and during a N.E. wind H.M.S. Saracen
found its strength was much diminished ; but with the wind from the opposite
direction, it would expand and fill up two-thirds of the channel against the
strength of the western tide. Steamers bound westward from Hakodate
should keep well inshore along the Yezo coast, to avoid the current as much
as possible.
Tides. — ^The shores are subject to tidal influence, the flood making to the
eastward. The tide in the stream ran about 12 hours each way near the full
and change of the moon, and there were only two regular tides by the shore
in 24 hours. On full and change, the flood stream made at Tatsupi saki at
&' 30"" a.m., at 1^ at Cape Tsiuka, and at 7" 30"" at Toriwi saki. The western
stream began about 12 hours later. The turn of the stream takes place 1^ hour
later every day nearly.
C. Pemberton Hodgson, Esq., H.M. Consul at Hakodate, writes : — " The
tides set with terrific force from the Pacific and Japan Sea ; coming from the
S.E. and E.S.E. on the one side, and from the West, S.W., and N.W. on the
other, they meet in the very middle of the strait. From any high land an ob-
server may see such fearful concussions of the two tides, each running from '6
to 5 miles an hour, and such heavy breaking overfalls, that he may wonder
how a ship can, even with a fair wind, face them; and, with comparative
alarm, how, with a contrary wind, a vessel can beat against them."
CAPE YOKOISO or Gamaley is near the N.W. point of Nipon, and in
approaching the western entrance of Tsuvar Strait from the S.W., Bittern
Hocks, described hereafter, will be seen lying W. by S., about 16 miles from
it. The land about this cape is moderately elevated and level. The coast be-
tween it and Oho saki, to the northward, if !ow and sandy. Between Sasagota
Bay, a large shallow lagoon, and Oho saki, 6 miles to the northward, the
coast is safe of approach, having regular soundings, ond fair anchorage in
N.E. winds.
Oho saki, or Cape Greig, is remarkable from its peculiar form, and being
the commencement of the high land extending to Tatsupi saki, 8 j- miles to
N.E. by N. i N. The bay between these points, although containing much
foul ground, may be useful to a vessel dui'iug an easterly gale ,
TATSUPI SAKI, or Cape Tsugar, the South point of the western entrance
to Tsugar Strait, is a bluff, 362 ft. high, from whence the land r>ses to the
height of 2,200 ft., 4 miles inland. A large rock, 300 ft. high, Mm 2 cables
85G
THE JAPANESE AECHIPELAGO.
■!: i:
i
■ W'
I- i
-I:
N.E. of the cape, and is connected to it Ly a low neck of sand and stones. The
cape is steep-to, but the strong eddies near it make it prudent not to approach
it nearer than a mile.
Taka no taki, or Gun Cliff, 9^ miles E. by S. i S. from Tatsupi saki, is
stcep-to, and has a battery of six guns on its apex, which is 200 ft. high. In
the bay between these points, off the town of Memoyah, about half a mile from
the shore, there is capital anchorage in 8 fathoms, the best in the strait next
to Hakodate. Wood and water is abundant here.
From the South point of Nambu Peninsula a steep cliffy shoro trends 25
miles northward, nearly in a straight line to Toriwi saki. The cliffs are coloured
with the most brilliant and varied tints, and, like the entire coasts of the strait,
are of basaltic formation. Among the most remarkable are the Red Cliffs,
1,600 ft. high, 17 miles southward of Toriwi saki. At 9 miles farther north-
ward are two remarkable pointed cliffs, named Cape Yakosi or Double Head.
Nearly 2 miles S.W. of this head is a rock 42 ft. high ; and North about 3
cables from this is a rock, awash at low water.
TOBIWI SAKI, the northern point of Nipon, is a low tapering point, half
a mile off which is Omasaki sima or Loiv Islet, 45 ft. high. The ground all
around this cape and islet is very foul. The soundings off it are irregular, and
the East-going stream causes swirls, tide-rips, and overfalls, sometimes very
heavy. Anchorage may be obtained out of the strength of the tide in 10 to 12
fathoms, 1 mile East of the point, but caution is necessary.
Singapore Bock, on which the steamer Singapore struck in 1867, has 9 ft.
on it, and lies 8 cables E.N.E. of Low Islet, at the extremity of a ledge of 6
to 17 fathoms, connecting it with Low Islet. The overfalls are very heavy
around it. At 6 cables N.W. by N. of Low Islet is a rocky 2} -fathoms patch.
Yake yama saki, 8 miles S.E. of Toriwi saki, is a bold headland, very stecp-
♦j; ;ii>-ut 2J miles S.E. of it are Aha-gawa mura and Red Cliff,two prominent
t-oinf.fj, .he former low and green, the latter fronted by red cliffs about 100 ft.
M: ' The coast is generally bold and rocky, backed by high densely wooded
hills. Minando mura and Ohata, 4 miles S.S.E. of Ked Cliff, are towns at the
mouth of a small river, where junks load timber. The coast hence to Uiya
mura, about 11 miles eastward, forms a bay with a sandy beach, free from
dangers, with anchorage in 7 to 10 fathoms. Cape Siriya saki and its light>
house are described on p. 853.
AWOMOBI BAT, a vast interior basin at the North end of Nipon. opens
on the South side of Tsugar Strait, the entrance being 5 miles wide, \\ ith high
land on both sides. Some half-tide rocks lie 1 cable off the salient part of the
West point. According to the Japanese, no hidden Kngers exist. Towards
the centre the water is too deep to anchoi but at 2 mUts from the East and
West coasts there is generally 19 to 22 fathoms. Without a pilot or a chart
it is not advisable to approach nearer than in II fathoms. There are nu^nerou^
villages ou the shores.
Jk^ii
TSUGAR STRAIT— AAVOMORI.
857
Awomori, at the head of the western part of the bay, appears to have from
15,000 to 20,000 inhabitants. The shore is bordered by a fertile plain of rice-
fields, and a great quantity of rice is exported to Yezo. Beef, timber, and fire-
wood can be obtained. The anchorage is open to the North, and 9 fathoms
will be found at 2 cables from the shore, with good holding ground. It is high
water, on full and change, at 2'' 58"" ; springs rise 2 J ft.
Light. — k fixed red light, elevated 't5 ft., and visible 6 miles, is shown from
a white staff in front of the town.
Natsu sima, 12 miles N.N.K. of Awomori, is the extremity of the peninsula
dividing Awomori Bay into two pavts. Shiranai Bay, 5 miles to the S.E., is
about 1 J mile in extent, but shoal water extends half a mile from its head.
ifolbi lies in the S.E. bight of Awomori Bay. The anchorage is in a large
^►w. liar indentation in front of the town, at 6 cables from the shore, in 6J^
-alic,:/-, gravel bottom. The town is half a mile from the coast ; at the shore
there is only a Ityge village. There is a considerable traffic in copper here.
From Nofitsi the coast trends 25 miles northward to Ando Bay, near the
head of which there is anchorage in 6J to 8 fathoms. To the S.W. of the an-
chorage is Port Ando, a, fine basin, sheltered by a bank of sand running
parallel to the coast, with good anchorage in 3£ to 5 fathoms, mud, abreast
the second village.
Cape Kusodomari, 1 8 miles S.W. of Ando, is the eastern point of the en-
trance to Awomori Bay. At 2 miles S.E. I E. from it, and 5J cables from the
shore, are the two islets of Ben-ten sima.
CAFE YESAN, or Esarmi, on the South coast of Yezo, is the North point
of the eastern entt-aAee to Tsugar Strait, and the East extreme of a bold pro-
montory, with r.i ,-ViA remarkable dome-shaped mountains in the rear. The
cape itself is f .toey; 'luff, about 600 ft. high, with some rocks off it ; the vol-
cano immc at '.? i^ovfi it is 1,935 ft. high, and frequently capped with a light
cloud of steuiu, -r.'J ■ la anchorage in the bay about 2 miles westward of the cape.
At 8 J miles 3.V by W. of Cape Yesan is Conical Islet, 200 ft. high, lying
dose to the high an i cliffy coast. There is a dangerous low point 1 mile to
the westward ; and at 2| miles to the eastward is Fold Point, which is low,
with a daugerows i-ecf extending 2 cables from it.
CAPE 8IW0KTJBI or Blunt bears W. I N., 2^ miles, from Conical Islet;
E. by S., 12 miles, from Hakodate Head; and N. by E. J E., OJ miles, from
Low Islet, which is the narrowest part of the strait. This cape is steep-to,
and the F '. current frequently runs with greater strength close to the rocks
than oil i. f.t'.' stream. The summit of the bluff immediately above the cape
is 1,022 l!. ; .' '. ; fi'oia thence the high laud ranges in towards Saddle Moun-
tain. The coubt for about 7 miles to the westward is a level plain, elevated
200 or 300 ft. ; beyond 7 miles it descends to the low beach connecting the
high land o*" Hakodate Head with the main.
iiorth i'acific, 6 8
8S8
THE JAPANESE ARCHIPELAGO.
? !
l!
!
l!
HAKODATE HEAD is the South extreme of a bold peaked promontory,
1,136 ft. high, standing well out from the high land of the main, with which
it is connected by a low sandy isthmus. The head is steep and precipitous,
and safe of approach. At 4f miles West of the head is Mussell Point, off
which a reef extends 2 cables, and is steep-to ; the entrance to Hakodate Har-
boar lies between these points. The coast from thence to Cape Saraki, at 4^
miles to the S.W., is lerel, but fringed with rocks, and requires caution in ap-
proaching. To the westward of the cape the shore is low, with a sandy beach
6ofe of approach, and clean vi-omd for anchorage to within 3 miles of Cape
Tsiuka.
HAKODATE HARBOUR.— Tju, t of Hakodate or Hakodadi, on the
Noith side of Tsugar Strait, is situalv-u at the foot of the northern slope of the
high peuiir-iila forming Hakodate Head. It is an excellent roadstead, 4 miles
wide and 6 miles deep, and, for accessibility and safety, is one of the finest in
the world. The harbour is in the S.E. arm of the bay, and is completely shel-
tered, with regular soundings and good holding ground, the best anchorage
being in 5 fathoms, mud, in a line with the avenue leading to the Governor's
house. A stony spit of IJ to 4 fathoms extends 1 mile northward of Anama
Toint, nt the North extreme of tlic promontory. There is a large fort on this
point.
This excellent port was thrown open to commerce by the treoty procured
by Commodore Perry, U.S.N., March 31, 1854. The town lies on the N.E.
slope of the promontory, facing the harbour. The appearance of the place is
striking and picturesque, and in its position, general aspect, and many par-
ticulars, resembles Gibraltar. The town, which contained 26,908 residents in
1884, stretches for about 3 miles along the base of a lofty promontory, divided
into three principal peaks of from COO to 1,000 ft. in height, whose bare sum-
mits are often covered with snow. The European residents numbered 34. An
excellent road connects it with Matsmai, 30 miles to the westward. The in-
habitants are chiefly engaged in commerce and the fisheries, and carry on a
large trade with the interior. More than a thousand junks have been seen at
one time at anchor in the harbour. There is telegraphic and steam commimi-
cation with other Japanese ports.
The principal exports are furs, sulphur, fish, herring oil, deer antlers, and
edible sea-weed,* the latter in large quantities, but the trade is almost entirely
in native hands. In 1883, only 34 foreign vessels, with a total tonnage of
13,571, entered here ; in the same year 1,457 Japanese vessels entered, with a
tonnage of 204,655, and 2,282 junks.
* " In its trosh state, tho \>ccd is in appearance much tho same ns tho ' kelp ' of Britain,
in lengths from 20 to 40 ft. Two or throe days of fine weather sufBcc to dry it, after whicb
it is cut into lengths, usually 3 feet 9 inchoj, and tied in bundles of half a picul each."—
Caj)t. r. Blakiston, F.R.G.S.
jaC,i i w.:..>j.i,-,!i.--.'..i.:a.UtaXi-lje'.«'
t:jiiiiii i g
TSTJGAR STRAIT— HAKODATE HARBOUR.
859
Supplies. — Water can be easily obtained from Kamida Creek, which enters
the harbour to the north-cagtward of the town, but the boats have to be
dragged over the bar of the river. The Japanese supply fresh water in their
own boats at a very moderate rate. A supply of wood and water may also be
ordered through the Custom-house, at the bazaar, or from the American agents
residing at Hakodate. The wood is suitable for steaming purposes, the pro-
portion required being 2^ times the weight of coal. Inferior coal is also pro-
curable. Merchant vessels entering the port are subject to the Custom-houso
regulations.
The seine supplied the American Squadron, in 1854, with fine salmon and a
quantity of other fish, and the shores abound with excellent shell-fish. Beef,
potatoes, sweet potatoes, fowls, eggs, and all necessaries can be procured. For
largo supplies of provisions, masters of ships should have recourse to the
American agents.
There are some shipbuilding yards here, turning out vessels of fair tonnage.
Vessels, even when seriously damaged, can undergo repairs in the harbour ',
timber of any dimensions can be procured, and its price is very moderate.
Expert and intelligent Japanese coopers, carpenters, and efficient blacksmiths
are also procurable.
There is a brass and iron foundry, though worked on a limited scale. Ships*
boats can be repaired or constructed by the Japanese in a very skilful manner
from drawings,
Lightvessel. — A lightvessel, painted red, with two masts, the forC'mast
carrying a ball, is moored in 7^ fathoms, oft' the North end of Anama Spit, and
exhibits a ^xed red light, elevated 36 ft., and visijjle 10 miles. From the
vessel the mouth of Kamid 35™ ; springs rise 5 ft.
From Endermo Harbour the coast trends about 35 miles to E.N.E. to the
villoge of Yubels, where deer are very abundant. About 10 miles inland is
the extinct volcano of Taromai. Urakatca Bay, about 50 miles to the south-
eastward, is an open anchorage, protected, however, from the S.E. by a reef.
jgg^gsmm
rs;jS6g5«imni!«-i-K
YKZO ISLAND— AKISIII BAY.
8G3
I Yezo, lies
ppears to bo
miles South
i, distant 6
rom the sea,
is found in
■ano. Silver
cm the sea,
ie, 11 miles
lano Bay ; it
)ny, is about
imn and the
wide South
lie town of
)w and flat,
other parts
•e is a road
is fish and
9i and there
Tans Olason
3; the U.S.
e grave.
, from which
regular ser-
''olcano Bay.
Iszi volcano,
the beach;
olcanos.
kable peaks
n entering,
ing about 2
3 to E. J S.,
f.byE.iE.
lined in 3J
change, at
N.E. to the
;s inland is
the south-
by a reef.
Beefs and rocky patches uUo extend off shore northward of the anchorage, and
great caution is rcquiied to (tuohor here. Between Yubets and Urakawa are
Saru and Su/sini, where coal is found.
Cape Terimo, the S.E. extremity of Yezo, in lat. 41° 56' N., long. 143° 16' £.,
is a rocky bluft', abuiil 80 ft. high, the South extreme of a plateau stretching
from the mountains. There are several pinnacle rocks close off the cape, and
a reef of rocks, 10 or 15 ft. high, extends five-eighths of a mile S.E. There
arc several fishing villages here, and with westerly winds fair anchorage may
be found on its eastern side.
Between Cape Yeriino and Akishi, a distance of nearly 00 miles, the coast
stretches about N.E., slightly curving back, then trending more to the east-
ward, with not even an indentation along it. Ktisuri, a Japanese fishing
Ectilcmcnt, lies 20 miles West of Akisbi ; there is anchorage off it, with tho
wind offshore.
Akishi Bay, the Bat/ of Good Hope according to Jansen's chart, is a large
basin of moderate depth of water, with a shallow lagoon at its northern end,
1'hcre is a fishing settlement here, and some of the best edible seaweed is
obtained in this neighbourhood. Wood and water are abundant.
The entrance, 1 j^ mile wide, lies between the Daikoku Islands on the North,
and the extremity of the reef extending 2 miles E. J S. from the South point.
The islands lie on a reef extending from the North shore. Near the North
end of the bay, and on its Enst side, is Conspicuous Bluff, 250 ft. high, about
2 miles West of which is a rocky reef half a mile long N.N.W. and S.S.E.,
dry at low water. The land in the vicinity appears perfectly flat, and is
thickly wooded. Two remarkable mountains are seen to the N.W., and others
to the N. by E.
The depth gradually shoals from 14 fathoms at the entrance to 3^ fathoms
West of a steep bluff on the East shore, just over the settlement, a distance of
b^ miles. In fine weather a convenient anchorage will be found in 7 fathoms
North of Daikoku simn, with Ko Daikoku sima bearing East. With S.E.
winds the best anchorage is in about 4 fathoms, in the N.E. part of the bay,
and with S.W. winds, in the S. W. bight of the bay North of the South entrance
point ; a good berth is in 5 fathoms, 7 cables from the shore. It is high water,
on full and change, at 6'' 30" ; springs rise 5 ft.
From Akishi the coast trends 7^ miles E.N.E. to a remarkable pinnacle
rock, about 80 ft. high, and from thence to Hamanaka or Kiritappu N.E. by E.,
6 miles ; the shore from Akishi, round Cape Noyshaf, to Nemoro, terminates
in dark cliffs, backed by wooded table-land.
Hamanaka Bay, in lat. 43° 5' N., is shallow, but it is a safe anchorage for
a small vessel, behind the island of Kiritappu sima. Facing the bay are the
islets Shiro iwa and Kuro iwa, connected by reefs.
The best entrance to this bay is between the rocks off the East point of
iiorth Pacijic, 5 3
166
THE JAPANESE ARCHIPELAGO.
1 •• '
.^; '
!i 1
Kiritnppu and the West extreme of Kuro iwa ; this possngc is about thice-
qunrtcrs. of a mile in width, Arith not less than 8 fathoms. Keep in mid-
channel, and round Kiritappu half a mile off, anchoring in 3^ to 5 fathoms,
three-quarters of a mile off the largo ficLic^ villagt; ou its low flat N.W. point.
From Hnmui.d^<\ the coast trends IC miles, H ^ N., to Cajie Um ; reefs aud
dangers are believed to exist 2 miles off this coast.
The coast hence to Capo Noyshaf, the East extreme of Yczo, trends about
N.£. by N., 18 miles, still gradually lo>roring and forming a narrow promon-
tory. Two islands, 4 to ^ '-.iilcs N.E. of Capa Usu, afford shelter behind them
for junks. liana Da'j, about 7 miles northward of Cape Usu, is about a mile
wide, and half a mile deep, and affords good shelter from W.S.W., round by
North, to I'u ; reefs and
trends about
■ow promon-
behind them
nbout n mile
,, round by
ast point, ia
27' N., long.
the greatest
)uly during a
1 white hex-
ed 74 ft., nnd
iuutc, except
rth-eastward,
ks and reefs,
ittlf-way from
la have a few
i eastward of
the western-
cape, and the
w pass to be
difficulty and
tween Skotan
inptufcreuce.
8 miles, to a
Is S.W. by S.,
len gradually
lets, and this
L by W. from
>ms iu it, und
ho has, with a
9(1 tho (jeogra-
NEHORO, the only plocc on the N.E. coast of Yczo with nny pretensions
to An anchorage, is in lat. 43" 20^' N., and is formed by a small island, Bentcn
lima, lying across a bay, and thus affording fair shelter for one Ycssel of light
draught. In the entrance midway between the island and point, 2 cables wide,
there is a depth of G fathoms, shoaling rapidly to 4 fathom.. Wood, water,
and fish are plentiful. The climate is cold, and fog is constant all the summer.
The land about Ncmoro is not more than 100 ft. in height; to the southward,
swamps and lagoons back the stony beach.
Light.— On the N.E. point of Benten sima njixed red light, elevated 75 ft.,
and visible 6 miles, is shown from a white mast 40 ft. high ; in February it is
not exhibited.
Nishihets liiver, though small, is a very important salmon river, and between
it andNenioro are several other fishing stations. In 18G9 not less than 1,000
tons of salmon were exported from this river.
A^olske SpH, in lat. 43° 33' N., is a low and flat wooded tongue of land
shaped like a hook, projecting about 6 miles from the land, and enclosing on
ts South side a shallow bay where only boats can float. There is a small
temple on its extreme S.E. edge. The anchorage off Notske affords shelter
from winds from the westward, but it is open to the East.
Shibets, 1 1 miles from Notske by sea, is a considerable fishing station at tho .
entrance of a river. The anchorage is open to the N.E., and but little wind
from that quarter, or East, produces a nasty sea. The country is very low and
fliit until past Shibets, from whence it rises suddenly into a grand lofty range
of mountoins, which terminate in Capo Sirotoko.
Cape Sirotoko, or Spanberg, the N.E. extreme of Yezo, is in lat. 44° 18' N.,
long. 145° 23' E. It has two remarkable points, one forming the eastern ex-
treme, the other the northern ; at 2 cables off the latter is a rock about 30 ft.
high.
YEZO STRAIT, separating Yezo from the island of Kunashir, is about 20
miles wide at either entrance, narrowing to 9 miles off Notske Bay ; at which
place a shoal ridge, having 10 fathoms deepest water, extends across the strait.
Northward of Shibets the water deepens quickly. Great caution is necessary
when proceeding through these straits, sudden patches of shoal water being
frequent. Between the S.W. point of Kunashir and Notske Spit the depth is
irregular, starting with 4 fathoms off the point, deepening to 6, shoaling again to
4, and again deepening to 11 fathoms at li^ mile off Notske Spit, at which dis-
tance, probably, the best channel runs through the straits. In December, ico
forms to a considerable distance from the shore.
The North Coast of Yezo, between Capes Sirotoko and Soya, trends about
200 miles to N.W. Its prominent features are : a high mountainous district
near Cape Sirotoko ; a low shore skirted with numerous lagoons u stward of
Share ; a high bluff near Yessasi ; and thence towards Soya a comparatively
low fir-wooded country. There is a total want of harbours along its entire
■■MMM
THE JAPANESE ARCHIPELAGO.
length, and no detailed survey has been mode. — (Captain T. Blnkiston.) In
winter the sea along this shore is said to be frozen for 6 or 8 miles out.
Share Bay is formed on the East by the high promontory of which Cape
Sirotoko is the extreme. At its head ia the village of Share, situated on the
bank of a river. There is said to be an extensive bed of pure sulphur near the
sen between Share and the cape. Inland, bearing S. ^ E. from 8hare, is a high
double-peaked mountain.
Ahashira, a, fishing station about 20 miles north-westward of Share, is
sittiatcd on tJie South shore of the bay, at tlic mouth of a river. Fronting the
village is a curious reef of rocks. Anchoi-age in 5 fathoms may be had with
ofF-ihorc winds on cither side of the reef. A bank of IJ^ fathoni extends from
the reef to the river. The country is of moderate height, 500 or GOO ft.
Fioni Abashira the coast trends northward for about 5 miles to Cape Notoro,
12 miles westward of which is Tokoro., a small fishing station at the mouth of
n river. About 2 miles westward of Tokoro is the outlet of the most extensive
lagoon on the whole coast, containing large oyster-beds. Yxtbets, a small
fishing station a short distance westward of the extreme Wobt end of the la-
goon, is situated in a .^^wampy district.
From Cape Notoro the coast trends N.W. by W. J W. for 44 miles to a low
point, just inside which is the settlement of Momlets, the head-quarters of the
district. With the wind off shore a vessel can anchor in 5 fathoms, 1 mile off
the settlement.
The coast from Mombcts to Cape Soya, a distance of 90 miles, trends about
N.W. by N. Smoaki is a small fishing station about 20 miles iS'.W. of Mom-
bcts. The coast between is fronted by a low sandy beach.
The coast N.W. of Sawaki is irregular and rocky, nnd skirted by reefs.
IJoronat, a small salmon fishing station, lies about 12 miles N.W. of Sawaki,
and Chuskiu Islet, about 1 mile off shore, lies 3 to 4 miles N.W. of it.
The West Coast of Yezo, from Cape Sirakami (p. 861) to Cape Nossyab, is
comparatively little known, and has but few good anchorages. The best is
Oterranai in Iskarri Bay, between which and Hakodate there arc no anchorages,
except with an off-shore wind, and then only at Sutt Bay and Cape Ilodgcrs.
Cape Ilodyers, or Su ne yo, a prominent, low, green point, in lat. 41^ 48' N.,
forms a bay on its North sJde, with convenient anchorage in 7 or 8 fathoms,
sheltered from N.E. or S.E. gales.
Tesasshi, in lat. 41° 52', is the principal town on this part of the coast, and
is said to contain 10,000 inhabitants. Off it lies Kamone sima, a small rocky
islet almost connected to the land by a sand-bank, forming an excellent shelter
for numerous junks. Larger vessels may anchor in 7 or 8 fathoms, with the
North end of Kamone sima bearing about S.W. ; they should, however, leave
if the weather threatens to be heavy from the westward. At 4^ miles north-
ward is the town of Odohe, ot 1 mile North of which is n white cliff 210 feet
high. Made iwa, 3 miles North of Odobe, is n dark pillar of rock, 70 ft. high.
'tJatA
-■■-"^'^-
Ml
MHHHMHHH
YEZO ISLAND -OKUSmi ISLAND.
869
Blakiston.) In
lilcs out.
of which Cnpo
situated on the
ulphur near the
Share, is a high
of £haro, is
Fronting the
y be had with
n extends from
or GOO ft,
Cape No/oro,
t the mouth of
most extensive
'ubeis, a small
end of the la-
miles to a low
quarters of the
oms, I mile off
s, trends about
N'.W. ofMom-
irtcd by reefs.
y. of Sawaki,
. of it.
[)e Nossyab, is
The best is
10 anchorages,
'ajjc Kodgcrs.
;• 41^ 48' N.,
)r 8 fathoms,
;ho coast, and
small rocky
client shelter
ms, with the
)wevcr, leave
miles north-
sliff 210 feet
, 70 ft. high.
Sihi no safii, 4 miles farther on, is a low, prominent point, at 1 mile North of
which, and close to the shore, is a round rock 35 ft. high. From Sibi no saki
the coast trends to tha N.N.W., for about 6 miles, to a white cliff, and is com-
posed principally of sandy beaches. At 4 miles westward is Seki nai no saki,
in lat. 42° 8', whence the bold coast trends N.N.W. for about 6 miles to Kudo
Bay. A rock, awash, lies 1 J mile North of Seki nai no saki, and half a mile
offshore. Kudo Buy has a white sandy beach, with anchorage in 8 to 10
fathoms Northward of Ota saki, 5^ miles N.W. of Kudo Bay, the coast is
very bold and precipitous, with deep water close-to, and backed by densely-
wooded mountains.
OEUSIRI ISLAND, 9 miles off the "West coast of Yezo, the channel between
being very deep, is for the most part densely wooded, and rises gradually to a
height of 1,955 ft. Between the summit and the North point are two moderately-
sharp peaks. From the northern peak the land declines gradually to the North
point, Gomiija saki, which is low and tapering, with a small round hillock, 237
feet high, about half a mile from the extrenio point. A reef extends about
half a mile off this point. The population, in 1881, was about 300 Japanese,
and a few Ainos, who earned a precarious livelihood by fishing.
The Fast coast of Okusiri is almost straight, and steep-to. The West coast
is rugged, and low rocks ejtteod nearly half a mile N.W. of the N.W. point.
A conical islet, 300 ft. high, lies near the South end of this coast, and rocks
also extend off the shore.
Awanai no saki, the South point of Okusiri, is low and tapering, curving
slightly to the eastward, and foul rocky ground extends 3 miles southward of
it, terminating in Morotsu no siina, a group of black lava rocks, about 25 feet
high, and surrounded by foul ground. These rocks should invariably be given
a berth of at least 2 miles.
On the eastern side of Awanai no sa^,;i is a bay, with a sandy beach, fronted
with shelving rocks, well protected from all winds between S.W. and North,
through West. Anchorage may be obtained in 8 to 10 fathoms, sand, with the
small temple, over the South end of the village, bearing about W.S.U". '>r
West. Fasterly winds send in a heavy sea. It is high water, on lull and
change, at S** SO"" ; springs rise about IJ foot. As a general rule there is a
steady set northward.
The Coast from Cape Ota, opposite the North end of Okusiri, is bold and
steep-to, and trends about N. i E., for 20 miles, to Cape Suisttki or Kutusoff;
thence it trends E.N.E., 20 miles, to Bekhei tnisaki, the West point of Sutt
Bay.
Sutt Bay, in lat 42*^ 48', is about 4 miles wide, and 3 miles deep. It is open
to winds between N.E. and N.W., but anchorage may be had in fine weather
cither at its heod, in 7 fathoms, at cables from the beach ; or on the western
shore off Sutt village, in about 1 3 fathoms, at SJ cables from the shore. The
distance across to the head of Volcano Bay is only about 13 miles.
-H
it?SS*SK.'Aaiai«t!i654a!.y -Bi-KKAC:
1 !
h
I
'U
1 1-
870
THE JAPANESE ARCHIPELAGO.
Sim-tmku Bay lies 15 miles N.E. of Sutt Bay, a short distance northward
of an enormous cliff known as Raiten. There is a coal mine 5 miles inland
from the northern arm of the bay, where there is a fair anchorage, and lighters
can load easily. The coal, which is of good quality, is conveyed to the coast
on tramways. Off shore, 2 miles from the point dividing the bay into two
parts, is a sunken 6-ft. rock. The settlement Iicani is in an open bay, sheltered
only from easterly winds.
Cape Novosilzov, 22 miles North of Iwani, is the N.W. point of a high bold
promontory which projects 20 miles to the N.W. It is 15 miles across, and
its summit. Mount Shakotan, rises to a height of 4,287 ft. ; off the cape are
several rocks. At 7 miles E.N.E. is Cape Taka stma, the North extreme of
the promontory. To the N.E. of this promontory is the large bay named
Stroyonojfhy Capt. Kruscnstcrn in 1805. At Maloyama Bay, 9 miles S.E.
of Capo Taka sima, there is anchorage off the village, in 9 fathoms, at about
half a mile South of the N.W. point, open to the N.E. Small vessels can an-
chor farther in, in 7 fathoms.
LIOHTHOUSE. — Cape Skudutxs, or lUyori yama, is the termination of the
rocky ridge of Kawasiri yaraa, 1,215 ft. high. On it is a white lighthouse, 33
feet high, showing ajixed bright light, elevated 102 ft., and visible 17 miles
seaward between W.N.W. and S. J E.
Iskarri Bay is the large bay eastward of Cape Skudutzs. From Cape
Skudutzs the coast trends southward for 1^ mile, and then curves to the west-
ward and southward for 2^ miles, formiiig Tamiya and Otaru Hays, separated
by a sandy point with a hill over it 204 ft. high. There are villages on both
these bays, the important settlement of Otorranai being on the southern one.
This is the only safe anchorage on the N.W. coast of Yczo, and is the port of
T.skarri, the greatest salmon fishery in tlip island. The bay is open to the east-
ward, but is well sheltered between N.W. and S.E., and is at all times safe.
After rounding Cape Skudutzs, steer into the bay, bringing the caatcrnmost
bluff to bear N.E., or farther in for a smaller vessel. The great resource of
Otcrranai is iti herring fishery ; about 6,000 tons of herrings annually are
dried and exported. They are also boiled down for manure. Edible, ecawced
is also procured.
A wooden pier, 1,440 ft. long, runs out into a depth of 21 ft. water, along™
side which vessels can load and unload. From hence a railway runs to Sapporo,
22 miles inland, the nominal capital of Yezo. It thence extends to the Poronai
coal mines, a total distance of 56>i miles, completed in May, 18B3.
Iskarri is a fishing settlement about 15 miles East of Otcrranai, at the mouth
of the largest river in Yezo, and noted for its salmon. In summer there is a
depth of about 10 ft. on the bar; and inside there is 6 and 7 fathoms. Large
numbers of junks come here, over 3,000 tons of fish being exported annually.
The river is said to bo navigable for light-draught vessels a great distance. A
vessel may anchor outside the bar, much exposed to westerly winds. Fire-
I
I
'
YESO ISLAND -NIPON ISLAND.
871
wood can be ubtaiued iu any quantity, aud coal haa recently been discoveicd
in tbe vicinity.
P'rom Otei'zanai to Cape Nossyab, a distance of 155 miles, the coast is bold
and rocky, without a harbour or sheltered anchorage, but with numerous fish-
ing stations along it.' Northward of Iskorri, OS far as Cape Buyimawas, it is
for the most part high and precipitous. On the North side of Cape Kamoieio,
or O/'uwi, or Malasptna, 9 miles northward of Cape Buyimawas, is a lofty red
cliff. The shore, to about 2 miles West of Maski, is precipitous, but then be-
comes comparatively low. Maski is 12 miles N.E. of Cape Komoieto, and 10
miles farther on is Jiurotnopi, a considerable settlen\cnt, situated in a small bay
open to the N.W. Obiraspi River enters the sea about G miles North of Euro-
mopi; about 24 miles up it coal of an inferior quality has been found. Tomomai,
about 18 miles northward of Obiraspi Ilivcr, is a comparatively large settle-
ment situated at Shishkojf Point. Fttribets is an old fishing station, about
16 miles northward, and 10 miles fartlier on Wirnhets River enters the sea, the
coast between being low. Tlio coast from a short distance South of Wimbets
rises, and the shore is skirted by a straight line of yellow cliffs 200 to 250
feet high.
Yagisiri and Tarun Islands, lying at 13 and 18 miles N.W. from Tomomai,
are 354 and 577 ft. in lieight respectively ; there is said to be a small village
on one of them.
Teskitt Rivet; about 9 miles North of Wimbets, is a considera' stream,
with a fishing station about a mile South of its entrance. Ilenci u dreary
straight wooded coast extends northward as far as the high land a little South
of Bakai, a fishing station about 13 miles South of Cape Nossyab. Under-
neath a liill at the buck of liakai village is a peculiar rock on a hummock,
(iuantities of drift-wood are found along this shore, and a monster species of
crab is also to be met with about here. Enormous quantities of herrings are
caught iu spring.
CAPE NOSSYAB, or Romanzoff, and Cape Soya, at the North extremity
of Yezo, together with the Strait of La Porouse, which separates Yezo from
Saghuliu, have been described previously on pp. 755-7, with the islands of
Kefuusiri and lUsiri, lying to the westward.
v. I.
5. ;<■■.'*■
THE WEST COAST OF NIPON.
The West coast of Nipon is comparatively little known, and should there-
fore be navigated with necessary prudence and caution. The only parts at
present surveyed are the islands Sado, Awa siraa, and Tabu sima, and the
Ktrait between Sado and Niegatu, by H,M. ships Aclceon and Dove, in 1859.
The coast from Tsugar Strait (page 855) to Rokko aaki or Cape Noto has been
partially cxp'ored by the Bittern aud othcsr of Il.M. shijis, the llusaian gun-
vessel Djiijit, and H.M. surveying-vessel Saracen. The latter vessel also ex-
872
THE JAPANESE ARCHIPELAGO.
I, I
i:^ ! If
plorcd the coast between the western entrance of the Inland Sea and Takh
yama or Caiie Louisa, in lat. 34° 40' N.
The coast between Capo Louisa and Sado is not often even sighted by
European ships ; its coast-line has been taken from the Japanese manuscript,
and may, with the exception of possible dangers off it, be regarded as accu<
rately delineated.
The coast from Cape Yokoiso (p. 855) to Nipgnta, a distance of 180 miles,
trends duo South to Oga sima Peninsula in about lat. 40^ and thence takes a
general S.S.W. direction to Niugata. Anchorage may bo obtained with off-
shore winds at Sahata in ZH" 58' N., and at Hamo 11 miles southward. It is
also probable that there is shelter on cither side of Oga sima Peninsula.
BITTEEN KOCKS.— This group of three small rocks, two above water and
one awash, was discovered by H.M.S. Bittern, 8th July, 1855. They lie close
together, within the space of 2 cables, steep-to on their western side, having
15 and 17 fathoms at the distance of 2 cables, and no bottom with 140 fathoms
at 1 i^ mile. The rocks were covered with seals. The south-western or largest
rock, in lat. 40" 31' N., long. 139" 31' E., and lying W. by S, about 19 miles
from Cape Yokoiso or Gamaley, is about 12 ft. high, the smaller one lying
rather more than a cable to E.N.E., and the third rock, awash, lies to the S.E.
Tabu sima, about 10 miles off the coast, is in shape somewhat like a horse-
shoe, with a club at its N.E. end. It is nearly flat, varying from 120 to 150
feet in height, and is 1^ mile long N.E. and S.W., its widest part, the N.E.
end, being not quite a mile across. The island is surrounded by detached
rocks, e.\cept on its S.E. side. No supplies could be obtained, except a few
fish ; the inhabitants export large quantities of dried squid. Springs of ex-
cellent water abound. Observatory Hock, off its East extreme, is in latitude
39* 11' 53' N., long. 139° 34' 17" E.
I'he ActcBon anchored in 25 fathoms off the bay on tlic S.E. side, with the
South extreme of the island bearing S.W. by W. i W., and Observatory Rock
N.N.E. The gun-vessel Djiyit anchored in the same bay in 9 fathoms, coral.
It affords shelter from all winds prevalent in the Japan Sea.
Awa sima, the N.E. extreme of which is in latitude 38" 29' 36" N., long.
139° 16' 7" E., is a narrow island running N.N.E. and S.S.W., and reaching
ot its southern extreme an elevation of 680 ft. It lies about 10 miles off the
coast, and is 3| miles in length, and nearly a mile in breadth, the widest part
being in the centre, where, on the East shore, is a fishing village, while
another stands at the South end of the other shore, in a small bay protected
by a natural breakwater. The S.E. side is fringed with a narrow bank of
soundings, the only anchorage ; the remainder of the island is bordered by
reefs and rocks. At nearly a mile N.N. W. of the North point is a dangerous
rock, on which the sea sometimes breaks. The inhabitants were, as well as at
Tabu sima, very civil. Nothing but fish could be obtained.
SADO ISLAND, lying 25 miles westward of the important trading port of
NIPON ISLAND— NIEGATA.
873
ea and Takk
; trading port of
Niegata, is 33J miles long, N.N.E. and S.S.W., nearly 17 miles at its widest
part, and is composed of two parallel mountain ranges lying N.W. and S.E. of
each other, the neck of land joining them being a plain, on the N.E. and S.W.
sides of which arc formed two extensive open bays. A remarkable sharp
conical hill, 700 ft. high, stands on a flat off the North extreme of the island,
and from a distance looks like an isolated rock. To the northward of this are
a few detached rocks close to the she:": and one off Ya, JVa, or Iladihi sakt,
the N.E. point of the island, which is in lat. 38° 19' 55" N., long. 138^ 30^ E.
This latter point rises somewhat abruptly, and attains an elevation of 3,800
fc(ima is in lat. 34° 45^^' N., long. 131° T E., and 20 miles distant from
the northern coast of the province of Naguto, which forms the foot of Nipon.
Its highest part, elevated 492 ft., is in the centre of its West side. Its sides
appear steep and cliffy, except on the N.E., where there is a sandy bay. A
large square rock lies half a cable off its eastern point, and there is an islet
on its N.W. side.
Taka yama, or Cape Louisa, 24 miles E. by S. f S. from Mino simn, is a
remarkable sharp peak, 1,680 ft. high, with a lower peak on its N.E. slope,
and an islet off its North point. Aston liocks, two in number, lie nearly 1^
mile off it.
NATSTJNOir SAKI, or Square Rook Point, is the northern extremity of
the western prolongation of the toe of Nipon ; it is 34 miles W. by S. f S.
from Taka yama, and 30 miles northward of the western entrance of the Inland
Sea. It appeared to be about 700 ft. high, with a nippled outline, bordered
by high cliffs on the North, and slightly tapering towards the sea, where it
was about 500 ft. in height. It may be easily known by the remarkable square
rock or head springing from its base, and which, being entirely detached from
>i
880
TDE JAPANESE ARCHIPELAGO.
M
the high land of the point, gives it the appearance of an island. Seen at the
distance of 24 miles from the N.E., it assumes the appearance of gently-shelving
tiible-land, having three or four large notches, the sharp cone of Aoumi sima
nnd the distant summit of Kabuto yama showing to the eastward. The former,
a sharp and remarkable cone 700 ft. high, marks the eastern point of the deep
bay of Fukugawa.
Ai sima, or Richards Island. — Between Natsungu saki and Taka yama
there is a large bay, with many isiluids in it, generally about 200 ft. high, and
flat-topped, with cliffy inaccessible slides. The largest are Ai sima and () sima.
Ai sima, the outer, is midway between the obovc capes and just within the
chord of the bay ; it is elevated 300 ft., having a flat-topped hill in its centre.
O sima, 5 miles East of Ai sima, is 400 ft. high, but longer and flatter.
Ilaki or Ilangi Day. — The anchorage off the large town is bad, being open
to the West, but good shelter may bo found in 9 fathoms inside the North
head, N.E. of the town.
Aoumi sima, 4^ miles in length. East and West, is 10 miles East of Natsungu
saki, its western point being the shaip cone before alluded to. On the Ja-
panese chart there is represented between this island and the coast, a finely-
sheltc'.cd and capacious harbour called Misumi, accessible by a broad channel
from the eastward, and by a narrow channel from Fukugaina Hay.
Igama Bay is an inlet extending 7 miles in an easterly direction on the
South side of Natsungu saki, shoaling gradually from 20 fathoms at its en-
trance to 5 and 7 fathoms about a mile from its head. Some islets and rocks
extend half a mile westward of its North entrance point, Funa sc, awash at
high water, lying 4^: cables South of it. In entering, keep in mid-channel,
and do not approach the shores on either side within half a mile. Aburatuni
Harbour, at the N.W. corner of the bay, affords good sheltered anchorage in
6 to 10 fathoms, mud, off the village of 0-ura, half a mile N.W. of Ye-no sima
Islet. There is also good anchorage 1 ^ cable North of the islet. It is high
water, on full and change, at lO"" 25'"; springs rise 3J ft., neaps 2 ft.
Tsu-no or Eado sima {Double Wedge Island of Richards), 1 mile westward
of the South entrance point of Igama Bay, is connected with the shore by a
shallow neck of sand, with a high islet midway between. It is 2J^ miles long,
E.N.E. and W.S.W., and of very peculiar formation as seen from the North,
being divided nearly equally into two very flat quoins, the points of the wedges
being both to the westward, and their steep falls to the East. On the S.E.
side is a village and pier, but foul ground exists hereabout. The North point
is low and smooth, with rocky patches extending about half a mile off it.
LIGHTHOUSE.— On the N.W. point of Tsu-no sima is a granite tower, 100
feet high, showing a flashing An"^/*/ light every 10 seconds, elevated 142 ft., and
visible 18 miles seaward between S. ^ £. and N.E. by E.
About 4i miles N.W. by N. J N. from the lighthouse, and 9 miles E. J N.
irom Square Kock Point, is the North end of a bank of broken shells, sand,
:M^
KIUSIU I8LAND-0KNKAI NADA.
Ml
and stone, having hero n depth of IG fathoms. Tlio bank is said to trend
towards the lighthouse, and to be connected to the point on which it standi,
and there may be less water on it than is known. In the wi'.'or, during N.W.
gales, a heavy sea .'uns on it, and many junks have foundered there.
From Tsu-no sima the coast trends southward to the entrance of Simonoscki
Strait (page 789), which is approached by a very even and gradually decreasing
depth. The shore should be given a berth, as, where surveyed or seen, it
was found to be very rocky.
THE WEST COAST OF KIUSIU.
K0T8TJ SIMA, or Colnott Island, lies in Korea Strait, nearly midway be-
tween Tsu sima and Simonofjeki Strr ' t. It is a mile wide at its broadest pnrt ;
iU sides are steep, with a high eliii at the N.E. point, and rises with slight
irregularities to a central peak 800 ft. high. Four notched rocks or islets, 80
feet high, lie 4 cables S.E. by S. of the South point.
Ore no sina, or Obree Island, iu hit. 33" 52' N., long. 130^ IJ' E., and 37
miles ^V, by S. of Siro simn, is a double-topped island, the southern ond higher
hill li ''v; 76 ft. high. It is about a mile in diameter, and steep-to, with a
few wretched inhabitants. There appear to be no dangers between this islan I
and Colnett, Iki, Tsu sima, and the entrance of the Inland Sea.
Kosime no oosima, or Wilson Island, and the coast thence eastward to
Simonoseki Strait, is described on pages 789 — 790.
GENKAI NADA is the sea comprised between Iki Island, Oro no sima,
Wilson Island, and the mainland. The numerous islands within it arc generally
safe of approach, and the western portion is singuh'.rly free from danger. Not
so its eastern part, where lie three very dangerous tidal and sunken rocks. The
soundings appear very even, 20 to 30 fathoms, except in the vicinity of these
rocks ; the bottom is generally sandy.
A steamer taking this route only effects a saving of 8 or 10 miles, but a
sailing vessel proceeding to the southward would benefit considerably by keep-
ing inshore in the Genkai Nada out of the north-easterly current, and taking
advantage of the tides, Avhich arc pretty regular, by dropping a kedge when
unable to make way. At night the light on Yebosi sima is a good guide. The
flood streams meet ofiPHakosaki; at springs the velocity is 1^ knot.
The Coast, — From Katsurl saki, southward of Wilson Island, the hills gra-
dually increase in elevation to the double peaks over Kanega saki, eastward of
Wilson Island, but high mountains are seen in the interior. Southward of
Katsura said, oflP which is a small islet with a single tree on it, the coast is
moderately low and wooded, to Chi-a saki, and thence a low strip of sand-hills
terminates in the North entrance to Ilakosaki Iky. Ten fathoms should be
the least water when nearing this part of the coast. The sharp double-peaked
}forth Pacific, # V
T^n
t^
^fi
ill
■'\l''
■m
m
J' ■
I' I
!!!'!
ilil
1 1
II
It
l!
882
THE JAPANESE AliOHIPELAGO.
hill Tatchi yama, 1,335 ft, high, ovcrlookbg the head of Hakosaki Bay, is
conspieuoits along this coast.
Ai sima, 8J miles S.S.W. of Wilson Island, is a table-land, 240 ft. high,
with bluffs to seaward, on which was a single tree. The island is about 2
miles round, and steep-to, having a bay on its South side which would afiTord
fair shelter to a vessel from almost all winds ; the depth, however, is great,
and anchorage in 10 fathoms is close to the shore. On the eastern end of the
island is a hummock, which from a distance looks like an island. At 1^ cable
off the East point is an arched rock.
Kuri no kami, or Swain Rnef, a dangerous cluster of rocks, is about 3
cables in extent, some of them always showing above water. It lies 5 miles
N.W. by W. i W. from Ai sima, and llj miles E.S.E. of Oro no sima, and is
the principal danger to navigation in this locality.
Jfagamo or Ellis Reef, lying S.W. | W., 8^- miles, from Swain Reef, lies
more out of the fairway of vessels making a direct course through the Genkai
Nada. It bears E. ^ N., 8 miles, from Yebosi sima, and W. by N., 3J miles,
from Too-dai Rock off Genkai sima. It never quite imcovers, but in bad
weather the heads of the rocks are seen. At three-quarters of a mile S.S.E.
of the reef is a patch of rocky ground, with soundings of 4 to 10 fathoms.
Nooze or Dove Beef, which shows some rouud boulder-heads, is 3 miles
S.W. by S. of Ellis Reef. It is 2\ cables in extent, and may be passed at half
a mile on the outside in 18 to 20 fathoms, fine sand
YEBOSI SIMA, or Cone Islet, 25 miles S.W. by W. | W. from Wilson
Island, is situated in the centre of the southern portion of the Genkai Nada,
and is a most useful guide to avoid the dangers above described. It is formed
of basalt, extraordinarily contorted, and is 160 ft. high, and quite steep-to.
The rocks between it and Iki sima are described hereafter (page 884).
LIGHTHOUSE.— On the summit of Yebosi sima is an octagonal white light-
house, 57 ft. high, showing & fixed bright light, elevated 182 ft., and visible 20
miles. Lat. 33° 41' 30" N., long. 129° 58' 50" E.
HAKOSAKI BAY extends about 10 mUes eastward, with a width of 3
miles. The entrance, between Genkai sima and Siga sima, is about 2 miles
wide, a considerable sea rolling in with uorthcrly winds. Genkai */»»«, or
Heed Island, is a round-topped island, 723 ft. high, with a bank of 2 to 5
fathoms extending from its southern side, leaving a narrow channel of S to 7
fathoms between it and the land. Two small islets lie on the West end of
this bank, and a rock lies to the S,E. of them. Too-dai, a, niue-pin-shaped
rock, lies 3 J cables W.N.W. of the ishmd. Siga sima, on the Ea.st side of the
entrance, is a rocky island, 1^ mile long, with a ridge of wooded hills, and a
grassy peak 636 ft. high. A narrow sand-bank, uncovered at low water, con-
nects its S.E. point with the shoxe. Dangerous rocks extend 8^ cables W. by
N. i N. from its N.W. point.
The bay is divided into two parts by Noko-no sima, a long narrow wooded
KIUSIU ISLAND-GENKAI NADA.
88&
cosaki Bay, is
210 ft. high,
lid is about 2
would afford
ever, is great,
era end of the
At IJ cable
ks, is about 3
t lies 5 miles
ao sima, and is
rain Reef, lies
ii the Genkai
N., 3i miles,
rs, l)ut iu bad
f a mile S.S.E.
fathoms,
ids, is 3 miles
J passed at half
from Wilson
Genkai Nada,
I. It is formed
quite steep- to.
3 884).
aal white light-
, and visible 20
a width of 3
about 2 miles
'enkai sima, or
jauk of 2 to 5
;mcl of 6 to 7
le West end of
liue-pin-shapcd
East side of the
:d hills, and a
ow water, con-
\ cables W. by
larrow wooded
island 454 ft. high. In the passage South of it the depth is only 3 fathoms,
but novthwiird of it there is 7 to 12 fathoms. The outer portion of the bay,
with 8 to 11 fathoms in it, is protected from all westerly winds, and the inner
bay is well protected by Noko-uo sima, but the depth shoals to .5 and 4 fathoms
soon after passing the island, and this anchorage is not recommended for vessels
drawing over 15 ft.
The shores of the inner bay are low and sandy, and at its S.E. part is the
large city of Fulcuoka or Hakata, two rapid streams flowing through it into
the bay. Cultivated plains turround the city, and South of it the country is
mountainous, rising 2,000 to 3,000 ft.
Light. — Near the North end of the city is a white lighthouse, 36 ft. high,
showing ajixed bright light, elevated 40 ft., and visible 10 miles.
From Niiii-xvura sahi, the West point of Hakosaki Hay, the face of a hilly
promontory trends 8 miles S.W. by W. to Koya saki, the indentations between
olFording no anchorage. Keya saki is a bluff cape, but southward of it rocky
reefs extend nearly a mile offshore. At IJ- mile westward of it is Ilime sima,
or Ilill Island, with a bank of sand and gravel, uncovering at low water, ex-
tending 8 cables South of it. The island is wooded, nbo\it half a mile in
diameter, and G47 ft. high.
Karatsa-no ura is a large indentation south westward of Keya saki. The
bill-ranges inland are cstrenjcly bold, Uki take Peak, with a small square top,
rising to a height of 2,685 ft. Close to the West side of the entrance is
Kasira sima, 281 ft. high, and about. 2 J- miles southward of it are Oii sima and
Taka sima, lying off the town of Karatsxt, AYherc a considerable trade is carried
on by junks, which load with coal, brought from the mines about 6 miles dis-
tance up the River Matsura, There are also extensive porcelain manufactories
at Karatsu.
The depths shoal evenly from 18 fathoms at the entrance to 6 fathoms, sandy
bottom, at 1 J mile off the town, whore there is good shelter, except from
N.W. to N.E. winds, when tiie bay of Funa-goshi, at its East end, offers the
best shelter.
IKI SIMA, the largest island off the N.W. coast of Kiiisiu, is 10 miles long.
North and South, and G miles in average breadth. It is of sandstone and ba-
saltic formation, chiofly tableland, the southern part rising to an elevation of
696 ft., and its N E, hill about oOO ft. There are many i-slands and reefs off
its shores, the deep indentations of which afford anchorage in well sheltered
harbours. liccfs were seen to extend a considerable distance off the eastern
coast.
Go no nra, on the S.W. coast, has depths of from 12 to 20 fathoms, but
near the centre is a rock, covering at high water. It affords shelter from .nlmost
any wind. In bad weather, from the North or West, Go no ura is convenient
and safe. To enter it from the westward, steer for the South point of liira
sima, the outer or southern island, giving it n berth of 2 to 3 cables, then steer
f\
' vfe
884
THE JAPANESE ARCHIPELAGO.
4
i
( 1
I,
'I i
mm
E. by N. for the next low rocky islet, giving it a berth of half a mile, wheii
haul up N. by E. i E., anchoring near the head in 12 fathoms. The telegraph
cable between Yobuko and the Korea is landed here.
Eooze no ura, on the West side of Iki sima, is not recommended as an an-
chorage, on account of the swell. Yu no ura, on the N.W. coast, has several
islets and rocks in it, and the navigation is difficult for a stranger.
Na sima, a cluster of rocks and islets, about 1^ mile long, E.N.E. and
W.S. W., lies about 3 miles off the East coast of Iki sima ; the southern islet
is fiat-topped, and 60 ft. above the sea. Idzumi Islets, about 2 miles eastward
of Na sima, consist of two low flat rocks, only 14 ft. above water, and probably
more dangers exist between them. A rock, with only 8 ft. water on it, lies
three-quarters of a mile S.S.W. from the eastern Idzumi Islet, and 3^ miles
N.W. by W. i W. from Yebosi lighthouse.
Kagara sima, or Christian Island, is the centre and largest of three islands
off the main land, 8i miles S.E. of Iki sima. It is 1^- mile long, North and
South, with a rock, drying 4 ft., at 2J cables off its South point. Mats' sima
lies close off its S.W. part, a rock above water lying in the centre of the South
end of the passage ; and rocks extend 3 cables off its S.W. point. Oogaiva
sima, 1 mile eastward of Kagara, is about three-quarters of a mile in extent,
with a clump of trees on its S.E. head, 245 ft. above the sea. The passage
between is quite clear.
Ilira si, or Passage Reef, lies half a mile S.E. of Oiigawa, and at its North
and South ends are rocks, 20 and 30 ft. high, on which are fishing look-outs.
It is 3J^ cables long, and the whole shows at low water ; shoal water extends
3 cables from its South point. Oo ri se, with only 3 ft. on it at low water, lies
2^ cables from the northern rock.
YOBUKO HARBOUR, southward of Kagara sima, is formed by two deep
sheltered indentations, faced by KabS or Kata sima. Yobuko, a large fishing
village, is on the eastern inlet, which is 7^ cables deep, and 1 J cable wide ;
whilst the western branch runs South for 1 J mile, varying in breadth from 1
to 2 cables, with deep water, and the large village of Nacoya on its western
side. Ilato saki, the western point, is low and rocky, with a remarkable square
clump of trees on it. KabS sima is 1 ^ mile long, with a clump of trees on the
fouthern end, 412 ft. above the sea.
The western entrance is broad, bold, and deep ; the eastern entrance, which
is used by junks, being narrower. Westward of Yobuko Inlet a reef extends
from the shore, leaving only a very narrow passage between it and Kabe sima.
Taka sima, off the eastern entrance, is a steep wooded islet, 209 ft. high,
and at half a mile N.W. of it is M^ se Rock, 20 ft. high. A Telegraph Cable
to Chusan Harbour, in the Korea, leaving the coast here, passes eastward of
Taka sima and Me se, and then between Kagara and Oiigawa ; it is landed at
the S.W. end of Iki sima, and at the island of Tsu sima.
Xiight. — On the North end of Tuka sima is a square tower, 15 ft. high,
KIUSIU ISLAND-IMARI GULF.
885
wer, 15 ft. high,
Blowing tifxed h'ght, elevated 156 ft., and visible 8 miles. The light is green
over Mo se between N.W. by W. f W. and N.W. by N., and red over Hira se
between North and N.E. by N. J N. ; in other directions it shows bright.
To enter the eastern channel, keep a mid-channel course, and anchor in 14
to 12 fathoms. A long vessel should anchor in 10 or 12 fathoms in the
western inlet, due South of the tuft of trees on Kabe sima. It is high water,
on full and change, at O** 16"" ; springs rise 9 ft., neaps 6 J ft.
The coast southward of Ilato saki is much indented, with long rocky points
extending from the shore into deep water.
Madara sima, or Covey Island, 3J miles W. by N. J N. from Ilato saki, is
IJ mile long. East and West, and steep-to. A rock lies 1 J cable off its West
point. The highest peak, 795 ft, high, is round and flat ; the western peak,
659 ft. high, falls steeply to the sea over a cliff-bound shore. There is a village
near the South point.
Fufakami, 9 miles W. by N. from Madara, is a saddle-shaped islanf'., about
half a mile long, and 316 ft. high, with steep cliffs. A'o Futakami, a wedge-
shaped rock, 176 ft. high, lies W. by N. J N., IJ mile, from Futakami, and at
6 cables E.N.E. of this is Kanatoo, a small rock above water.
Kariya, the entrance to which is 4 miles S.S.W. of Hato saki, is a spacious
and magnificent landlocked harbour, the depths varying from 17 fathoms at
the entrance to 12 to 7 fathoms inside. It extends south-eastward for IJ mile,
with an average width of three-quarters of a mile, with several islands in the
South part. The village of Kariya stands on the North shore. To enter, keep
about mid-channel.
Moko sima, 2 miles West of the entrance to Kariya, and IJ mile N.E. of
Taka sima, shows bluff capes at each end. A ledge uncovers for 1^^ cable off
its northern end, and IJ cable off the South point is a rock above water. A
large rock aUo lies 6J cables S.S.E. of the South point, and from the latter a
rock, just awash at high water, bears E.N.E., distant 5 cables.
IMARI OTTLF, the outer portion of which is protected by Taka sima and
Awasi sima, has three channels leading into it. Taka siina is nearly 4 miles
long. North and South, with rocks extending nearly to Kuro sima, which is
715 ft. high, with a cliffy face to seaward, 1 mile West of Taka sima.
The North channel. East of Taka sima, has tortuously-indented shores. The
whole of the channel, as mcU as the spacious waters inside, almost form another
harbour equal to Kariya, but at its southern entrance, and near its central part,
it is encumbered by rocks and shoal patches.
The middle channel, between an island off the S.W. cape of Taka sima and
a small island, 76 ft. high, 4 cables N.E. of Awasi sima, is 6^ cables wide, but
a shoal extends nearly 2 cables E.S.E. from the latter islet ; and from the
middle island shoal ground extends about 2 cables westward.
The South channel is 3 cables wide between Hosika saki and a remarkable
clump of trees on a small island, connected with the South part of Awasi sima
F
m
' • T %^ ft* s. Ts^ i r^p> n m
886
THE JAPANESE AECIIIPELAGO.
!; ^" i
I'i
■.I ','i
m
mi
.ill
,in
i
i'l
'ii!
by a Bca-M'all. In entering, keep rather close to the North side, which is
steep-to.
Kanai saki is 5f miles E. by S. ^ S. from the South channel, and the gulf
carries depths of from 29 to 18 fathoms across. To the S.W. of this cape is a
bay, with good anchorage on muddy bottom.
Faku sima, half a mile eastward of Kanai saki, is a singularly shaped island.
Between its N.E. coast and the main a narrow but deep passage leads to an
extensive sheet of water, covered with innumerable islets and rocks, which,
with a similar sheet of water South of it, has not been examined. There is
excellent sheltered anchorage, in 5 fathoms, about 1 mile S. by Pi. from the
S.W. point of Fuku sima; in 1874 coal could be obtained here at 3 dollars a ton.
From Kanai saki the gulf runs about S. by E., Z^ miles, the middle depths
decreasing from 17 to 3 fathoms, whence the water is shallow to the town of
Imari.
Imari, at the head of the gulf, is small, but about 7 miles distant is Ariia,
where are the finest porcelain works in Japan. The population of Imari, in
1875, was said to be about 4,000. Coal is found in the neighbourhood.
Atsusi no sima, 6^ miles N.W. i W. of Awasi sima, is 4 J miles long,
East and West, with two deep bays, on its N.E. and S.W. sides ; that on the
S.W. is the Port Lindsay of the old charts and China Pilot. The island is
well cultivated ; its highest hill, 720 ft., is near the northern end. Its coasts
are bold, but half a mile off its N.W. side is a large rock named Us6, with
several others around it, nearly 1 J mile W. ^ S. from the North point of the
island.
Port Lindsay, on the South side of the island, is a large sheltered bay, but
the water is too deep for convenient anchorage : the best is in IG fathoms, at
the N.E. end, and very small vessels could anchor in 5 fathoms in the small
inlet at the head.
Do sima, 1 mile southward of Atsusi no siina, is 2]r miles long, and it has
some rounded bare rocky summits of moderate elevation. At three-quarters
of a mile off its southern side are some islets with rocky ledges, terminating in
the small islet Yoko sima. Some sunken rocks lie 5 cables eastward of the
East point.
Ikutski, or Ykitsh Island, 5^ miles long. North and South, lies close off the
N.W. point of Hirado, separated from it by Obrce Channel. Its North point,
off which is a rock, has overhanging cliffs of considerable height, facing the
West, sloping gently to the East. The highest hill rises to a height of 929 ft.
Ikutski no seto, or Obree Channel, (bout 4 cables wide, is quite clear, with
a depth of 9 to 15 fathoms in the middle; in passing through, keep nearer to
the Hirado shore. The Saracen anchored just inside it in 7 fathoms, about 3
cables off Taiehi village, on the S.E. shore of Ikutski. At 1| mile N.E. i E.
of Obree Channel is Nakai no sima, about 2 cables long, with two small rocks
off iiB North side.
Ic, which is
ind the gulf
his cape is a
lapcd island.
leads to nu
ocks, which,
There is
E. from the
dollars a ton.
iddlc depths
the town of
[int is Arita,
of Imari, in
rhood.
J miles long,
that on the
The island is
Its coasts
led Usi, with
point of the
ered bay, but
IG fathoms, at
! in the small
)ng, and it has
three-quarters
terminating in
stward of the
js close off the
s North point,
ht, facing the
ight of 929 ft.
ite clear, with
tcep nearer to
homs, about 3
nilc N.E. J E.
ivo small rocks
KIUSIU ISLAND— HIUADO SIMA.
887
HIRADO SIMA, or Firando Island, 17J miles in length, N.E. and S.W.,
and, owing to its deeply-indented coast-line, of an irregular breadth of 2 cables
to 5 J miles, lies adjacent to the West coast of Kiusiu, from which it is separated
by Ilirado no scto or Spe.x Strait. It is high and hilly, and much wooded, and
its coasts are generally bold. Yasman Take, the highest hill, rises to a height
of 1,792 ft. Over fiisiki saki, the bold South point, rises precipitously a re-
markably sharp peak, 1,IG3 ft. high. Tsuba saki, the North point, is bold.
Yebukuro no minato, or Foil Firando, forms two deep harbours, on the
western side of the North end of Ilirado, and was, previous to 1623, the chief
location of British and other foreign trade with Japan, which from that period
was restricted to the Dutch and confined to Nagasaki. The town is on the
East side of the island. Oiisuka, the northern harbour, extends 2 miles east-
ward, averaging half a mile in breadth, and is sheltered from all winds, the
depths varying from 18 to 8 fathoms, muddy bottom. A good guide to recog-
nise its position is the small island lying off the North point of entrance.
Kaji-kake, nearly awash at low water, lies in mid-channel, about 7 cables in-
side the entrance, and can be avoided by keeping near the shore on either
side. There is anchorage between Ilirago sima and the head of the bay, in
12 and 13 fathoms, passing between this islet and another islet half a mile to
W.S.W.
Feruyi, the southern harbour, about half a mile within the entrance, extends
South, 1 J mile, with a brcadvh of 3^ to 7 cables, and is a perfectly landlocked
harbour, with excellent holding ground everywhere. Its entrance, although
barely IJ cable wide, is easy and clear, and the longest ship could boldly pass
througli it, and anchor as convenient in 10 to 15 fathoms, mud. A stream
flows into the head of the bay, and there are some small villages on its shores.
Sisiki Bay, at tlie southern end of Ilirado, is 3 miles deep, and has a general
width of 1 mile, the depth gradually decreasing from 1 7 fathoms at its entrance
to 5 fiithoms near its head. 06 Azika and Ko Azika sima, two remarkably
bold, rocky, conical islets, lie off the entrance.
The bay is open to the N.W. and W.N.W., but affords perfect protection from
all other winds, and to any vessel well found in ground tackle it would be a
welcome haven from a heavy westerly gale, as from 5 to 4 fathoms can be ob-
tained near the head, where no very heavy sea could reach. Several islets lie
off the West side of the peninsula forming the bay. A heavy tide-rip is gene-
rally found off Sisiki saki.
The eastern shore of Ilirado is clear and bold, and can be approached to
within 2 or 3 cables without danger. Sheltered anchorage, in 4 to 5 fathoms,
mud, can be obtained close off the village of Kigatsu in a snug little bay. At
4 miles farther North the spacious bay of Kawatchi opens, in which anchorage
can be found as convenient.
The town of Hirado, 2J miles from the North capo, is built on the North
side of a narrow bay ; off the entrance is lutvo ko sima, 1 J cable long, dividing
W\ ^
-\
%--'-Y ■
'^' -.
Ill
1
Wt
K
I. ■'.'¥-•;
m
\i> ->'
"^m
'I I »|| ■liiiiw
888
THE JAPANESE ARCHIPELAGO,
I
lt
Spez Strait into two channels, the eastern of which is used by vessels passing
through.
Tu'ke Earbonr, about 1 mile South of Tsuba saki, and protected by a rooky
islet, is very small, but much resorted to by junks, and has 4 to 6 fathoms
water. A BmaM^xed bright light is shown occasionally on the North point.
From the northern entrance of Spex Strait the coast takes an E. by N.
direction to Kama la Harbour, far preferable, as an anchorage, to Taske. A
little farther eastward is the deep bay Kubiki no wa, shelter ?d from all westerly
winds. At 2^ miles from Kubiki is Hosika saki, the southern entrance point
to Imari Gulf. Kamada Bay is protected by the island of Yoko, and can be
entered by steering midway between the S.E. point of the island and the oppo<
site shore in 8 fathoms; inside there is 5 to 7 fathoms.
HIBADO NO SETO, or Spex Strait, is now much used by steam-vessels.
A sailing vessel cannot, however, be taken through in safety without a com-
manding bieeze, blowing directly through the strait. At its northern part, for
1^ mile, the whole breadth of the strait is only 3 cables, and the navigable
channel in two places is only 1 J cable wide. This is the dangerous part of the
strait ; the great strength of the tides over the uneven bottom, ^specially west-
ward of Hirose Rock, causing small whirlpools, rendering it indispensable that
a ship should have good steerage way to ensure safety. After passing this,
the strait takes a circuitous round, for nearly 2 miles, to the next narrow pas-
sage, formed between the projecting part of Hirado and the coast ; passing
this the channel opens, the eastern shore having many indentations fronted by
numerous islands, reefs, and rocks.
Hirose Hock, 20 ft. high, lies in the middle of the northern entrance to the
strait. A bank of 4 J fathoms extends 1^ cable N.E. of its North end, and at
] J cable S.W. ^ S. and S.E. by S. | S., respectively, from it are Vineta Bank
of 2} fathoms, and Sylvia Hock, the latter lying at the extremity of a shoal
bank extending from the shore. These narrow the navigable channel to 1^
cable.
. Ootaake Rock, 6 ft. high, lies about IJ cable N. J W. from Red Cliff Point,
at the second narrows; a patch of 15 ft. lies 150 yards north-eastward of it,
and one of 9 ft. half a cable West of it. Kotaske Rock, drying 6 ft., lies 1
cable N.W. by W. i W. from Ootaske. Asama Bank, of 1 J fathom, sand and
shingle, lies in mid-channel, 9 cables S.W. by S. from Red CliflF Point.
James Rock, uncovering 2 ft. at low water, lies 7 cables off the eastern shore,
about 2\ miles N.E. J N. from the northern Kariki Island. Robinett Rock,
nearly awash at low water, but seldom breaking, lies 1 J mile S.W. of James
Rock. Kareki Islets have reefs extending a short distance off their South
points. Costa Rica Rock, the southernmost danger in the strait, has only 2 ft.
on it at low water, and lies IJ mile S.W. by S. from South Kareki; North
Kareki open West of South Kareki, N.E. by E., leads westward of it.
Kuro sima, facing the southern entrance to Spex Strait, is 2^ miles long,
KIUSIU ISLAND— SPEX STRAIT.
889
East and West. At 2^ cables off its western end, a conspicuous bold bluff, is
a flat rock, only 4 ft. above high woter. Ho-age, or «SaiV Roch, presenting
from a distance the appearance of a boat under Bail, lies A\ miles W. ^ S. from
the West end of Kuro sima.
Takasime, 1^ mileN.E. of Kuro sima, and between which vessels steer
when taking the eastern route, is a very conspicuous landmark, having a temple
near some trees cresting a square-topped hill.
Midzu sima and Mi sima are two islets about a mile North of Kuro sima.
Midzu, the eastern, has a reef drying 3 cables S.E. by E. J E. from its S.E.
point. A reef also extends 2 cables W.N.W. of the N.W. point ot" Mi sima.
Tides. — It is high water at Taske, on full and change, at 9'' 44™ ; springs
rise 8 J ft., neaps 5 ft. The flood sets to the North, the velocity of the tidal
streams varying from 2 to 5 knots in the strait.
Directions. — In entering Spex Strait from the North, vessels of light draught
use either passage, but the eastern passage, although much narrower, is by far
the safest and most easy to navigate. The North end of Kuro-ko sima, off
Ilirado, kept midway between Hiroso and the wooded head of Ushi-ga no kubi,
a point about 2 cables South of Ilirose, leads clear through the passage, pass-
ing the rock at little more than half a cable. From the wooded point the
Kiusiu shore should be kept at a cable's distance while rounding to Red Cliff
Point, and thence the same shore must be kept on board, distant 2 cables, until
abreast Aosa saki. If mile S.8.W. of Red Cliff Point, when a S.W. by S. course
can be shaped for the extreme South end of Hirado.
Directions from the southivard will be given hereafter.
Tenoi >ima, 9 miles S. by W. of Hirado sima, has numerous scattered islets,
rocks, and reefs off its North, South, and West sides, rendering great caution
necessary when approaching it. The island is IJ mile long, N.W. and S.E.,
rising towards the North end in two sharp hummocks, the highest 436 ft.
above the sea. Hira sima, to the westward, will be described with the Goto
Islands.
Saracen Beefs, a line of reefs and rocks, extend nearly 3 miles S. ^ W.
from the South point ; Minamize, the highest and central rock, is 65 ft. in
height. At 2 miles W. J S. from the South point is another patch of rocks
and reefs, the highest of which, Kuro sima, is 120 ft. above the sea; the outer
patch, of 4J fathoms, lying half a mile S.W. of it. Mize, uncovering 4 ft., lies
9 cables N.E. of Kuro sima. Iivoze, 30 ft. high, lies N.W. by W., 1^ mile,
from the N.W. point of Yenoi sima, and about 1 mile to E.N.E. is Kanagashira,
64 ft. in height, with several other large rocks.
Caution. — The channel westward of Yenoi sima being bordered by many
dangers, navigation in these waters is injudicious and hazardous. The tidal
streams are very strong, and set right on to the islands and rtefs.
Oo tate, 3^ miles East of Yenoi sima, has two hummocks u-^ar its S.E. end,
North Pacific, 6 X
I i
I I
! I
890
THE JAPANESE ARCHIPELAGO.
257 ft. high. It is 6 cables long, and 8 cables N.W. by N. from its western
point are two islets, 20 ft. high. A rock, awash, has been reported to lie half
a mile N. by E. ^ E. from Oo tate. Ko late, or the Bonnet, a small cone-
shaped islet, with a low rook close to its South side, lies 1 mile S.E. of Oo tatc,
directly in the fairway between Nagasaki and Hirado sima.
Foka ihe', a dangerous rook 4 ft. above low water, lies 4 J miles N. ^ W.
from Ko tato, and 6^ miles S.E. by S. ^ S. from the South cape of Ilirado sima,
directly in the fairway. On it is a stone beacon surmounted by a hemisphere,
34 ft. high, painted in red and white bands.
At 4^ miles East of Ko tate is Mikoto sima, with strong tide-races off its
West point at spring tides. A narrow shallow channel, with a reef in its
southern entrance, separates it from Kafci no ura sima, which has a deep inlet
on its western side, affording inferior anchorage for small vessels.
Oo sima, connected with the latter island, has numerous islets and rocks be-
tween it and the coast, the navigable channel, close to the East side, being 4
cables wide. To use it the chart is necessary. There is excellent anchorogc,
in 5 to 6 fathoms, in Otaiva Bay. At 1 J mile N.W. of Oij sima is Kata sima,
a wedge-shaped island 527 ft. high, with a small rock three-quarters of a cubic
southward of it. At three-quarters of a mile N.E. of Kata sima is Gana she,
a patch of rocks about a mile in extent, and at half a mile farther to the N.E.
is Shira she, a smaller patch, the N.E. rock Leing about 15 ft. high.
MURA GULF.— The islands and rocks just described lie off the S.W.
side of the entrance to this extensive gulf, rendering the navigation near and
among them difficult and dangerous. The gulf has not yet been explored.
At 3| miles southward of Otawa Bay is Takabo, a cone-shaped hill 743 ft.
high, with a clump of trees on its summit. At 2£ miles farther southward is
Mats^ sima, 2 miles long, rising to a flat-topped summit 708 ft. high. There
are coal mines on the island. An islet lies 4 cables off its N.W. point, and
from the North point islets and rocks extend 6J cables to N.W. by N. ^ N.
The whole of the channel between Mats' sima and the mainland is much en-
cumbered with reefs and obstacles.
Hiki sima is a partially cultivated island, 250 ft. high, 9 miles long. East
and West, with a remarkable cone-shaped rounded hummock at its S.E. ex-
treme, connected with the main body of the island by a long strip of shore. A
ledge of rocks extends 7 cables N.W. of the North side of the island. Rocks
also extend off its East and West extremes. At 1 mile N.E. of it is Ike sima,
a flat wooded island, with a salt lagoon at its North end.
Hako sima, a small round island, If mile S.E. of Ike sima, has off its West
side the remarkable pinnacle rock Tengo, with an arch through it. Kashi, a
square rock, 162 ft. high, lies 1^ mile E. by S. ^ S. from Hako sima.
' From abreast Kashe the coast trends S.S.E. to Miye no ura, with bold points
and sandy beaches, nearly all the points having off-lying rocks. Au isolated
i
■ JIJI.I1I- . IILI J 1 i .Jll
. rag
hmi"iri'lMiMJS
GOTO ISLANDS.
891
sunken rock lies 6 cables offshore, at IJ mile N.W. i N. from the oiiter flat
rock off the North point of Miye no ura (p. 898).
GOTO ISLANDS. — This mountainous chain of many islands, lying between
the parallels of 32° 34' and 33° 20' N., is 50 miles in extent, N.E. and S.W.,
and from 5 to 20 miles in breadth. The chain consists of nine principal islands, all
;nuch indented, forming six channels. The following descriptions, mostly taken
from the China Pilot, arc compiled principally from the reports of the surveys
by Commanders Aldrich and Pearco, H.M.S. Si/lri'a, 1876-9, together with
those of Commanders Brooker and Bullock, 186G-9, and J. Richards, master,
H.M.S. Saracen, 1855.
The winds in the channels between the islands can never be depended on.
The duration of the tidal streams in the North part of the islands is nearly
equal, the main direction of the flood being to tho northward, and the ebb to
the southward.
Uku sima, the northern Island, is 4,} miles in extent. East and West ; in
the centre are two peaks, the northern 842 ft. high. The shores arc indented,
with several small bights affording shelter for boats. Kttra no hana, its
northern point, is low, with dangers extending one-third of a mile northward.
At night give this shore a wide berth. Koshi no se, a group of three small
islets, lies 2 miles East of Kura no hana, tho centre islet being 200 ft. high.
A patch of sunken rocks lies about half a mile westward of Koshi no se.
Ojika seto or Eosaka Channel is the strait southward of Uku sima and
Tera siwa, the latter 120 ft. high, off the S.W. side of Uku sima. To tlie
eastward of its entrance are the Kttromo-se, a cluster of rocks 50 ft. high, at
2i miles S.E. of Uku sima. Ko no ura, between Tera sima and Uku siir.a,
has a bank of 4 J to 5 fathoms ; the best anchorage is in 10 fathoms, northward
of this bank. Small supplies offish, vegetables, &e., may bo obtained from the
villages. The harbour should be approached with Tera sima seen just open to
the westward of Uku sima, bearing N.W. {• W.
The western entrance of the Ojika seto is only 9 cables wide between Tera
sima and No sima, and neither side should be closely approached. Ai-no-se,
!6 ft. high, lies in the centre of the strait, \\ mile N.E. by E. J E. from No
sima; and Mu si'ma, 254 ft. high, with shoal water extending a quarter of a
mile S.E. of its eastern point, lies on the South side of the eastern entrance to
the strait, at 3 miles east^vard of No sima, and 1 mile southward of Uku sima.
Nosaki sima, 1,142 ft. high. Is 3i miles long, North and South. The channel
between it and Mu sima, half a mile to the northward, lias several dangers in
It. Between the South end of Nosaki sima and tho North end of Nakadorl is
a narrow strait, clear of danger, the islets Tanji and Shimomu lying about 1 J
mile to the S.S.E. of it. Nokubi Bay, on the East side of Nosaki, affords shel*
tered anchorage from all but S.E. winds.
Ojika Island, 3J miles long, East and West, is separated from Nosaki sima
^ifpi
It
l!
II
i
899
THE JArANESE ARCHIPELAGO.
by a navigable channel three-quarters of a mile wide, lunt Bay, on the eastern
shore of Ojika, is three-ciuarters of a mile deep, and nearly 7 cables wide at
its entrance, the shore being fronted with shelving rocks covered at high water.
From Tonosaki, the South entrance point, rocks extend 2 cables northward,
and shallow water half a mile south-eastward. Kuszukuri, the North entrance
point, has a rock at the extremity of the shelving rocks projecting from it.
The depths in the bay are from 4 to 14 fathoms, the best anchorage being in
about 8 fathoms, with the North point of Nosnki sima, in lino with the rock
off Kuszukuri Point, bearing E. by N. i N. ; and the South end of Nosaki
sima, in line with Tan-ji Islet, S.E. by S. \ S. It is high water, on full and
change, at S"" 40"" ; springs rise 10^ ft., neaps 2 to 4 ft.
At 6J cables westward of the S.l"]. point of Ojika, and 2 cables off shore, is
Ko-guro sima, 57 ft. high. Anchorage can bo obtained nearly midway between
it and the S.E. point of Ojika, in 72 fathoms, sand, with the South extremes
of Ko-guro sima and Kuro sima in line, bearing W. by S. J S., sheltered from
northerly winds.
For 11 miles to the westward of Ojika there are many islets and rocks. The
northern of these., named Iloage or Arch Rock, lies 4 J miles West of Madara
sima, off the West end of Ojika, and consists of two pinnacles, 167 and 120 ft.
high. A dangerous rock, drying 5 ft. at low water, on which the sea generally
breaks, lies G^ cables northward of Hoage, with the summit of Biriyo sima in
line with the West extreme of Iloagc, bearing S.W. J S.
Shiro-se, 105 ft. high, 13^ miles W. by S. from Ojika seto, is the western-
most islet in the northern portio.x of the Goto Islands. It is divided into two
pinnacles, nearly the same height, and off it arc several rocks.
Shaku shi, or Hodge Rock, awash at low water, lies 4 J cables N. \ W. from
Shiro-se. The North peak of Nosaki sima in line with Hoage, bearing East,
leads 2 cables northward of it.
Eorai-no-ze Rock, with 18 ft. water, lies 6 miles S.W. \ W. of Shaku shi,
near the S.E. edge of a rocky bank, IJ mile long and 2 J to 7^ cables wide, with
from 5 to 10 fathoms on it. The North point of liiriyo sima, in line with the
North peak of Nosaki sima, bearing E. \ N., leads northward of it ; and the
South point of Hira sima, in line with the North peak of Nosaki sima, E. by
N. \ N., leads southward of it.
NAKADOAI SIMA is 21| miles long between Sawosaki the South extreme,
and Tsua saki the North extreme. The coast-line is deeply indented with
bays. 0-mitzu yama, a flat peak 1,446 ft. high, 6 miles from its North end,
is the summit.
Nama ura Bag, f^. the western side of Nakadori sima, immediately to the
southward of O-mitzu yama, may be recognised by Cone Rock, 313 ft. high,
which forms the S«uth entrance point. It is 2 miles deep and half a mile wide,
with an even depth of about 16 fathoms ; shelving rocks extend 3^ cables in a
S.W. direction from the N.E. side of the entrance. The best anchorage for large
GOTO ISLANDS.
80*
vessels is ncnr the hcnil, in 1 falhoins, 2^ cublos from the shore, with the peak
of O sima just open eastward of Cono llock, bearing N. by W. | W., and Joss
Point, N.K. Tuttbo yashi, a rock 10 ft. high, lies li mile northward of the
entrance.
Hira sima, \\ mile from the East extreme of Nakadori sima, and 4 miles
westward of Yenoi sima (p. 889), is 2^ miles long, nnd rises to a peak GG3 ft.
high. Its western side is steep-to, and its costern side irregular, with a few
off-lying dangers and islets. Haidomari Bay, on the N.K. side, is 6 ciiblcs
deep, but is only suitable for junks. Komoda Bay, on the S.W. side of the
island, affords protection to small vessels from North and easterly winds ;
vessels should anchor to the south-eastward of a small wooded islet, named
Kojima, lying near the centre of the bay. There arc some mines of inferior
coal here. Nanori is a rem.irkablo rock, 92 ft. high, surrounded by rocky
ledges, 6 cables to ihc south- westwanl of Komo-no saki, the South point of
Hirn sima.
The channels on either side of Hira sima arc navigable ; that between Hira
sima and Nakadori sima is clear of danger, but in the channel between Ilira
sima and Yenoi sima are the Saracen llee/s (p. 889), to the southward of
Yenoi sima, and the foul ground to the south-westward of Kuro sima. The
eastern shore of Hira sima is the clearer side of this channel. In the vicinity
of Hira simn the streams run through the channels at the rate of 3 to 5 knots
during springs, causing heavy overfalls.
Oto no ae, or Old/tarn Rock, covered at high water springs, lies nearly IJ
mile K. by N. from Sawo mki, the South extreme of Nakadori. An islet, 78
feet high, half a mile to the westward of Sawo saki, in line with it, bearing
W. i N., leads to the southward.
The channel between Sawo saki andKaba sima to the S.W. is 3 miles wide,
and, with the exception of some rocks close to its northern shore, is deep and
clear of danger. On the S.W. side of Nakadori sima is M'akamaisu sima, 6
miles long, N.N.W. and S.S.E., the narrow and tortuous Nakadori Channel
lying between ; this channel is dangerous, if not impassabh , for ships.
Takigawara seto, separating Wakamatsu from Naru sima, is clear of danger,
and is about 4 cables wide in its narrowest part. In approaching from the
westword, Arafuku Island, on the North side of its entrance, is conspicuous,
presenting a reddish appearance with the sun on it. Anchorage may be ob*
tained in Takiyawara ura, eastward of the narrowest part. The tidal streams
at springs attain a velocity of 5 to 6 knots, the flood setting to the north-west-
ward. The tides meet off Kihuta, the small rock 131 ft. high, in the southern
entrance, forming heavy tide-rips.
Naru sima is much indented by deep inlets, Ai-no ura, the western of two
inlets on its North side, affording anchorage in 10 to 12 fathoms, sand, about
three-quarters of a mile from the head. Kadsura sima, to the northward, has
an extremely rocky coast, with a sandy beach and small village on its S.E. side.
80-1
THE JAPANESE ARCHIPELAGO.
jii
t' >t
■< i
"I
H
I
>\
i' !i
If am leto, or Ku/fa Channel, separates Nnru situa from Ilisaka sima ; it is
ubout 5 miles in length, half n mile wide near its central part, and eleiir of
danger. A good mark for the northern entrance is n hill, 637 ft. high, on the
N.W. point of Naru sima, with a peculiar knob on its summit when seen from
the westward. In the approaches from the southword arc two dangerous
rocks, with only 3 ft. on them at low water : Gunn Hock lies three-quarters
of a mile S.S.W. from the South point of Naru sima, and nearly two-thirds of
a mile S.E. by E. from the islet off the South end of Mia simo. Keary liock
lies 11 mile S.W. by W. \ W. from Gunn Rock, and 1 J mile S.W. J S. from
the same islet. The tidal streams attain a rate of C knots at springs in .'. ' Naru
seto, and heavy tide-rips arc met with.
Ohnhi Harbour, at the West end of Naru simo, and inside the Naru seto,
is a well protected harbour, the best anchorage being in its centre, in 10 to 11
fathoms, sand. Hardy Harbour, a small inlet, 8 cables in length, North and
South, ond 1 to 3 cables broad, is a snug anchorngc, on the S.W. side of Naru
sima. On the S.E. side of its entrance is Observatory Islet, at 1 cable South
of which a shoal, with 9 ft. water, extends IJ cable from the shore. From the
N.W. side of the entrance a shoal of 2 to 5 fathoms extends southward half-woy
across the entrance, leaving a deep channel between a 12-ft. patch and Obser-
vatory Island, only 1 cable wide. The best anchorage is in 10 fathoms, 3^
cables North of Observatory Islet.
Hisaka sima is 5 miles long, and 3^^ miles wide, hilly, and rocky along its
shores. Its northern shore is indented by Hisaka no minato, a long inlet ex-
tending 2i miles to S.S.E. It has a narrow winding entrance, in some places
only 1 cable wide, but clear of danger, and on CTierging from this narrow
passage a perfectly landlocked basin is reached. At the South end of this
basin arc two shelving muddy points, about 1 cable apart, with 7 and 8 fathoms
between them, forming the entrance to on inner and smaller basin. Perfect
security may be had here, and repairs and beaching couU. be effected *vith
safety in any weather. No supplies eon be obtained.
Tanno ura seto, or Fukuye Channel, between Ilisaka sima and Fukni sima,
is about 4 miles in length, with an average width of 1 ^ mile. It is clear of
danger, with the exception of some sunken rocks lying half a mile N.E. by
N. i N. and W. by N. from the northern point of Tatara sima at its eastern
entrance. Vessels should pass between Tntara and Yaneo. A rock, 4 ft. above
high water, lies three-quarters of a mile N.W. of the North point of Fukai
sima. The tidal streams run very strongly, attaining a rate of fully 7 knots in
the narrowest part of the channel. The flood tide sets to the northward. Heavy
tide-rips occur off the North end of the channel.
FTTKAI SIMA, the principal island of the Goto group, is about 18 miles long,
N.E. and S.W., and 15 miles across. It is very hilly, and its shores are broken
by numerous inlets and bays. The highest and most prominent peak on the
island is I'eteya yama, 1,520 ft. high, near its western side. Kashi no ura, on
.^■\
GOTO ISLANDS-FUKAI.
•M
the Euflt aide of the southern cutranco of Tanno ura scto, hns n smull islet in
its entrance, the channel, 1} cablo wide, being on in Weitt side. Inside tliero
is anchorage in 1 1 fathoms, mud.
FTJKAI) the chief town of the Goto Islands, is built on the sloping shore of
nn open roadstead, southward of Tunno ura seto. It presents a thriving and
cleanly appearance, and behind it arc fertile and well cultivated hills. There
is a junk harbour formed by a camber, with a smull lighthouse nt its octremc.
Immediately South of the main portion of the town there arc reefs with largo
boulders on them, which dry 3 ft. at low water spring tides.
Fowls, fish, and vegetables may be procured A small steamer runs about
once a fortnight between Nagasaki, Fukiii, and the Korea. The most conve-
nient anchorage is with the summit of Huiia sinut, 4C7 ft. high, bearing K. J N.,
and the Eust extreme of Yaneo, in line with the summit of Tntara, N.N.K., in
8 to fathoms, at i^ cables from the lighthouse.
Salidi 1/ama hana, the eastern point of Fukai sima, rises to a cluster of grassy
conical hills, 170 ft. high. Tutai sima, a conical rock, 191 ft. high, 1 mile
to S.E. I K., is at the S.W. end of a group of islets and reefs extending thence,
nearly half n mile, to N.N.W., and li mile to the eastward. Tatara summit
in line with the East extreme of Sada sima, N.W. by N. ^ N., leads eastward
of these dangers.
Tomie minato, or Tatvo Hay, indenting the S.E. side of Fukai sima, is about
2 miles wide at its entrance, and about the same in depth ; but shoal water,
extending from its South shore, contracts the anchorage considerably. In its
S.W. part arc several low islets and rocks, off y'omie village, where fowls, fish,
and vegetables may be procured. Very good anchorage may be obtained in
Tomic minato, sheltered, except from between E.N.E. and S.E. by E. In
entering, the southern shore should be avoided. The island of Kuro, in the
entrance, may be passed within a few cables on either side. Pass southward
of Ko Shirashi, the white rock lying IJ cable S.S.W. from the rocky islet
O Shirashi in the middle of the bay, and do not haul to the S.W. until mid-
way between the rocks and the shore, when anchorage may be taken up in 6
or 7 fathoms, sand. Mulstt, two small rocky islets, lie off the northern channel
into the bay, at 4 miles E. by S. ^ S. from Ko Shirashi.
A group of islands, extending SJ miles N.E. and S.W., lies 5 miles S.E. by E.
from Tomie minato. O sima, the southern and highest island of the group,
is also the largest, rising to a height of 301 ft. ; at its N.E. end is a fishing
village. Jlabe, about 1 mile North of sima, is low and flat, with a depth of
3f fathoms in the channel between. Aka sima, 172 ft. high, lies about half a
mile E.N.E. from Itabe ; reefs extend from its North, N.E., and S.E. sides,
liana se, the northern reef, lying nearly half a mile from the island.
Tsubashi hana, the South point of Fukai sima, is the South point of a pro-
montory similar to that at the N.W. point of the island ; it rises gently to a
height of 192 ft., and its shores are extremely shelving and rocky.
'.V.I
;/.,
!■ V|
m
f
ji !|l
-I
896
THE JAPANESE ARCHIPELAGO.
At 2} miles W. by N. is Tsutara sima, a narrow island, 364 ft. high, with
reefs and rocks around it, extending nearly three-quarters of a mile S.E. ^ E
from its East end. To the North of this island is a large bay, 4 miles in length
and 1 mile in depth, in the centre of which, and to the N.W. of Tsutara, are
Futago Islet, 156 ft. high, and Toma se, a rocky reef extending neorly a mile
S.S.W. from the shore, with an islet near its centre. At the eastern end of
the bay is Kuroshi, affording excellent shelter from northerly and easterly
winds.
Otakara Point, the West point of the bay, rises to a height of 330 ft., and
at H c»ble S.E. of it is Biro sima, 221 ft. high, with a rock 1^ cable S.S.W.
of it. Dai/to mura, the bay northward of Otakara, has a sandy beach near
the village at its head, and affords sheltered anchorage from winds between
West and N.E., in 8 to 10 fathoms, sand and shells. From Otakara the steep
and rocky coast trends 3} miles W.N.W. to Ose saki.
OSE SAKI or Cape Goto, the S.W. point of Eukuye sima, is exceedingly
bold, having 42 fathoms within \^ cable of it, its sieep rocky shores receding
from the cape at nearly a right angle. Immediately behind the cape is a
wooded hill, 851 ft. high, and to the north-eastward rise three fine mountains
(about N.N.W. of each other), separated by valleys. Very heavy overfalls are
frequently experienced off this cape, even in calm weather.
LIGHTHOUSE.— On Ose saki is a white tower, 36 ft. high, showing a
revolving bright light, attaining its greatest brilliancy every half minute,
elevated 265 ft., and visible 22 miles seaward between North and S.E. by E.
Lat. 32° 36' 45" N., long. 128° 36' 6" E.
Tama no ura, a large inlet or arm of the sea on the western side of Eukai
sima, is finely situated as a port of refuge, and, but for its great depth of water,
would be a magnificent harbour. Its entrance is 4J miles N.N.E. of Ose saki,
and 2J miles S.E. of Saga sima, which is about 2 miles in length, and 512 ft.
high. In the bay on the East side of Saga there is good anchorage in 7 to 9
fathoms, sand, sheltered from all westerly winds.
The entrance to Tama no ura is 6J cables wide, and must not be mistaken
for a blind opening 2 cables wide, only 2^ miles North of Ose saki, with a
rocky reef across its entrance, and only available for boats.
The main inlet of the harbour, which has a varying breadth of 3 to 7 cables,
follows the contour of the coast-line for 6 miles, separated from the sea by
Sima yama and a belt of land extending a mile northward of Ose saki, the
fishing village of Tama no ura being situated on the East side of the latter. It
first runs S. by W., 3^^ miles, then curves to the S.E. for 1 J mile to its head.
The depth within the entrance is 32 to 38 fathoms, decreasing gradually to 16
fathoms at its head, rendering anchorage inconvenient.
Directly S.I*ff*i
S4 ft. high, with
n mile S.E, i E
4 miles in length
of Tsutaia, are
ing nearly a mile
e eastern end of
?rly and easterly
It of 330 ft., and
U cable S.S.W.
andy beach near
winds between
)takara the steep
a, is exceedingly
shores receding
d the cape is a
e fine mountains
avy overfalls are
ligh, showing a
i-y half minute,
and S.E. by E.
•n side of Fukai
t depth of water,
S^E. of Ose saki,
igth, and 512 ft.
orage in 7 to 9
ot be mistaken
sc saki, with a
of 3 to 7 cables,
roni the soa by
' Ose saki, the
f the latter. It
le to its head,
jradually to 16
rbour branches
sheltered from
to 10 fathoms
GOTO ISLANDS -PALLAS EOCKS.
897
tm
projecting from the North shore of the harbour, just within the entrance, N.E.
of Kojima or Hallowcs Island, which is 224 ft. high. With N.W, winds,
however, this anchorage is exposed to a heavy swell, and the holding ground
is not good. Off the village, at the inner part of the blind entrance, there is
fair anchorage in 10 to 13 fathoms. Fish, fowls, vegetables, and good water
may bo obtained here. There is a good road from the village to the town of
Fukai.
The best anchorage for large ships will be found at the S-'F'. part of the luu -
hour, where the water shoals regularly. The best position is in 10 to li
fathoms, sand and mud, at 2 J cables from the shore. The entrance of Nugasti
no tira, extending to the N.E. from the head of the harbour, is narrowed to I
cable by Ko sinm Rock, on its North side. Very safe and sheltered anchorago
may be obtained here, for ships of moderate size, in G to 7 fathoms, mud.
It is high water at Tama no ura village, on full and change, at 8'' SI"" ; springs
rise 9 to 12 ft., neaps li to 4J ft.
The N.W. part of Fukai sima forms a projecting promontory, rising in its
centre to S/io i/ama, 594 ft. high. Between this and Kuto sa^i, the N.E. point
of Fukai sima, the coast forms a bay, the cultivated shores of which are much
indented by three inlets. S/to ura, on the East side of the promontory, affords
good shelter, except from winds between North and East, in G to 7 fathoms,
about half a mile from its head. Sonza ura, the centre inlet, affords anchorage
in 9 to 10 fathoms, mud, for a vessel of moderate size. Kiniku no minato, the
eastern inlet, can only be used by very small vessels ; good water, poultry, and
fish may be procured from the village inside the entrance.
Hime sima, a mile N.N.W. of i' o N.W. point of Fukai sima, is 5 cables in
length, and rises to a height of G47 it. ; Oto no se, b ft. above high water, lies,
midway between, Kam hone, two rocky knolls, the nearest of which lies 2J-
miles N. by W. ^ W. from the West extreme of Ilime sima, has 3^ fathoms on
it at low water; the outer knoll, 2^ cables to N.W. by N., has only 2 ^ fathoms
on it. Shinsone, one-third of a mile northward of Kamisone Hocks, is a rocky
patch of 4 fathoms. Nechisone, n 7-fathoms patch, lies 3|^ miles N.W. from tlio
West extreme of llimc sima, and about 2 miles W. by S. from Kamisone Hocks.
The locality is often marked by tide-rips.
Ose saki in line with the West extreme of Saga sima, bearing S. ^ W., Inads
westward of all the above dangers. The point North of Sho ura, well open of
the East extreme of Ilime sima, leads to the eastward of them. The flood sets
to the N.W. in this locality.
TORI SIMA, or Pallas Rocks, three in number, lie S.W.^W., westerly,
33 miles, from Ose saki lighthouse, the southern and largest rock being CO I't.
high, and about one-third of a cable in length, in hit, 32° 14' 36" N., long,
128"" 6' 18' E. The two southern rocks are clo.se together; the North rock,
40 ft. high, lies 4 cables N.N.E, from the South rock. They arc steep-to, and
isorth Pacific, 5 t
f
m
896
THE JAPANESE ARCHIPELAGO.
it
fr,-
. .^
Hiii
i
fishing vessels, by hooking on to their lee side, ride out moderate breezes,
f 'apt. iO'lmonds, of the P. and O. steamer On'ssa, reports that on several occa-
sions, when passing these rocks, the currents were found to be with the wind.
ME SIMA GrJSwlt, or Meac sima, consisting of two principal and three
smaller islands, with numerous islets, rocky pinnacles, and sunken rocks in the
channels between them, lie between S.W | W. and S.W. |^ S., 19 miles, from
Pallas Rocks, th<» whole extendin<.' about miles N E. and S.W. Thiey arc
visited by fisherm«f» during the fisiiug season, Mny ill November, a few only
remaining during the winter. Strong tidal streams set through the channels
between the islands, the flood to the N.W.
si'nw, or T(i/iart. The bay is
iiarbour, wliich is
E. from Two sima
, and Kagura sima
•e of the entrance
lorage at the head
of the bay, in 7 and 8 fathoms. It extends 2 miles in a N.E. direction, and is
much encumbered with dangers. Fukuda saki, ?i\ miles S.E. J S. from Kagura
sima, is a bold headland, G80 ft. high, with Teazer Rock, with about 3 ft. on
it at low water, lying 2 cables from its S.E. shore.
Iwo sima and Oki sima appear as one long island, although separated by a
narrow boat-passage. They lie in a N.W. and S.E. direction, and are of un-
dulating outline, the eastern summit of Iwo, the outer of the two, being '100 ft.
in height. Signal Head, the N.W. point of Iwo, is a good guide for entering
the bay. It is bold, and may be roimded at 3 cables distance, in 25 fathoms.
On its summit, which is cleared of trees, there is a lighthouse and a signal-staff,
from which the arrival of vessels is telegraphed to Nagasaki. Oki is more
wooded than Iwo, especially its southern summit. There is access to Nagasaki
Iiarbour by the channel East of Oki, between it and Koyaki.
The LIGHTHOUSE is situated on the end of a nan-ow ridge, i89 ft. high,-
IJ , v;I« within the extremity of Signal Head. It is a white hexn;^onal iron
tower., JJoft. high, showing nfixcdhriyht liglit, elevated 205 ft, and visible 21
miles, but eclipsed landward between E. |- S. and S.W. by S., outside Mitzusc
Hocks. Lat. ;i2° 43' N., long. 129^ 45' 13" E.
Hirase Bock, cohering at high water only, lies 4 cables from the eastern
shore of Iwo, and E. by S. ;^ S., 11 cables, from Signal Head; although not
directly in the fairway, it is in the route of vessels beating in and out. There
do not appear to be any other dangers near it. On it is a conical stone beacon
bearing ;i bail, elevated 20 ft., and painted in red and white bands. The biuft'
of Papenburg Island, bearing E. J S., leads 3 cables North of it.
Sotonohirase Eock, also covering at high water, lies 9 cables off the S.W.
shore of Iwo, and S. by W. J W., 1 j^ mile, from Signal Head, It is steep-to
in 17 fathoms on the outside, but this depth is continued on a spit running 1
mile N.W. by W. from the rock, its outer part in 18 fathoms being W.S.W.,
1 1 mile, from Signal Head, witli 37 to 38 fathoms on all sides.
Kutsno se and Kuro se Sockis.— Kutsno se, 10 ft. above high water, lies
inshore of the Sotonohirase, at 1^ cable from Iwo. Kurose is a large straggling
reef, of which the southern and highest part is 15 ft. above high water. North
and N.W. of it several reefs dry in ports oa the foul rocky ground between it
and the South end of Oki, from which it is distant 4 cables.
Taka sima, ;» miles S. by W of Signal Head, is about 7 cables in extent,
and has a precupitous ridge about 900 ft. high on its eastern side, and a smaller
ridge over the cliffs on its western or sea-face. Its shores are very rugged,
with reefs extending 1^ cable off its North and AS'cst points. Three small
islands, about 120 ft. high, Tohi .lima to the North, and Fittuho sima (two
islands) on the South, lie in line. North and South of its Eaat face. The latter
two are connected together, and fringed by reefs.
There arc coal mtnes in operation on the East side of Taka .^imri, yielding
coal of very fair quality ; in 1883, the output amounted to 252,949 tons, valued
'hi
A'Tl
i ^
; I
''t:\
I •
i\'i
II 'A-
■'^J
M
•:
.
\ n
I hi!
doo
THE JAPANESE ARCHIPELAGO.
at about SJ Jollnrs per ton. The only ancliorngc is on the West side of the
isltnd, in 2 to 7 fathoms, on a bank of coal and sand, which, at 3 cables from
the shore, deepens suddenly to 1j and 20 fathoms. Siuiill vessels nii^ht anchor
there in fine weather and smooth water, but the anchorage cannot be rcconi-
jncnded to large vessels requiring coal.
Hi sima and Nagano airna, \i and 2 miles S. by W. and S.S.AV. respectively
from the siimmit of Taka sima, are smooth-topped islands, about 120 ft. in
height, with rocky shores, reefs extending more than a caWe off their southern
points, Nagano sima is 4 cables S.W. of Ili sima, with about 14 or 16 fathoms
in the passage between.
Mitzuse Eo?ks, the outermost dangers in the approach to Nagasaki from the
South, lie 3^ miles S.W. of Taka sima, and N.W. ■} W., 2^ miles, from the
summit of Nomo saki. They spread irregularly over an extent of half a mile,
the interior rocks of the group covering with the tide. On the northernmost
rocks are two pointed islets, GO ft. in height, with outlying patches on the East
and West ; the south-eastern of the group is a bare rock, about 6 ft, above
high water.
NOMO SAKI, or Cape Nomo, is the S.W. extremity of the peninsula of
Nagasaki. At a distance it has the appearance of an island, and, when near-
ing it, cannot be mistaken for any other land in its vicinity, though the mis-
taking of this cape for the South point of Kaba sima led to the wreck of the
Sn/sumn steamer. From the West or S.W. the island Kaba sima will be seen
off the low point East of the cape. At cables North of the cape is Xomo
yama Poi?i(, which rises steeply to the wooded summit of a prominent hill,
Nomo yama, immediately beneath which, on a small bare shoulder towards the
sea, stands a look-out house. The coast between is broken and rocky, and
skirted >Aith dangerous rccf;j. which dry out in patches to a quarter of a mile.
At 2 cables off the cape is an inaccessible islet called Nomo liock, surrounded
by small, low, detached rocks, most of which cover.
Nomo ura, the entrance of which is 1 mile N.E. of Nomo yama Point, is a
fimall and perfectly-sheltered harbour, 6 cables in length, and from 1 to 2 ca-
bles in breadth. Within, there is a depth of 5 fathoms, but it is only accessi-
ble to small vessels, having not more than 9 to 10 ft. at high water in the
deepest part of it? narrow entrance, which is only 100 yards acro.ss.
The West Coast of Nagasaki Peninsnia, northward of Nomo yama Point,
is bold, with a few outlying rocks, and may be passed at 2 or 3 cables, in 10
to 13 fathoms. To the N.E. of Noiao ura the coast is low as far as a billy
point 2 miles distant. Off it are several long reefs, drying out in patches. No
part of this coast should be approached within half a mile.
The const for 3 miles N.E. by N. of this hilly point is bold, with soundings
of 5 to fathoms near the shore. It lies under a succession of hill ranges,
which terminate at a point abreast a group of rocky islets, North of which
point the small bay of Oofco tnura affords anchorage in G to b fathoms, A con-
./-
>l"
KIUSIU ISLAND— NAGASAKI BAY.
001
'est side of flic
t 3 cables frosii
■Is mi};lit anchor
iinuot be lecoin-
\Y. respectively
bout 120 ft. ill
ff their southern
1 or 16 fathoms
gasaki from the
miles, from tlio
of half a mile,
10 northernmost
chcs on the East
bout 6 ft, above
the peninsula of
and, when ncar-
though the mis-
he wreck of the
iima will be seen
e cape is Noma
prominent hill,
ilder towards the
and rocky, and
[uartcr of a mile.
loci:, surrounded
yama Point, is a
from 1 to 2 ca-
t is only acccssi-
igh water in the
cross.
)rao yama Point,
3 cables, in 10
as far as a hilly
', in patches. No
with soundinffs
of hill ranges,
S'orth of which
iithoms. A con-
^
spicuous smooth-topped conical islet, South of the islet group, is very notice-
able close off this coast.
Suzume, ii bare rock, about 50 ft. high, is the north-western of this group of
islets. Ni) si'ma, the southern, and all the other islets, are wooded and low,
and surrounded by large reefs.
Koyaki is the largest island off Nagasaki, and is situated directly S.W. of
the entrance, which may be gained by the channels both East and West of it.
This island is not high, but very hilly, its two ». ef elevations being 371 and
412 ft. Numerous reefs and islets border its broken outline, and on its eastern
side there is a mass of reefs in ti;e South channel.
An islet, named Joka sima, lies 5 cables W.S.W. of Mumcnoki, the South
point of Koyaki, and at 3 cables farther on is Hadmjase Rock, probably united
to Joka sima, as the large reef on which that islet stands stretches far towards
the rock, as it also does towards Mumenoki. Iladagase may be passed at 4
cables on its West side, in 26 fathoms.
Eageno Island, about 3J^ cables in extent, and 218 ft. high, appears part
of Koyaki, as it is only separated from its North point by a narrow boat-
passage. Naginato or Ilunyry Rock, which covers at high water, lies a cable
East of its N.E. point, off which is a small islet.
LIGHTHOUSE. — On the North point of Kagcno is a stone lighthouse, 16 ft.
high, showing a ^xcrf rfr/light, elevated 40 ft., and visible 8 miles between
W. by N. and S.E. i E., through North.
Eamino sima, at 6 cables North of Kageno, is the largest island on the
northern side of the fairway to Nagasaki. Its North hill is elevated 330 ft-,
and on its central hill, which is lower, is a signal-staff. On the East side there
is a small boat camber ; on the S.W. the small flat island of Siro simn, on
which there is a batterj-, connected with a work on Kamino sima by a cause-
way of masonry.
North-westward of Siro sima are the two small islands Ahio sima and ^f(tts
«i»m. Aino sima, Ij cable distant, is a flat table island, about (iO ft. high, on
a reef, with a conspicuous rock* close off its South point ; Mats sima, 5 cables
N.N.W. of Siro sima, is a small hill 100 ft. high. There is deep water in the
passage between Siro sima and Aino sima.
Barracouta Book. — Off Kabuto «aki, the S.E. point of Kamino sima. on
which there is a battery, are some small islets. At 1 cable from these, S.AV.
of Tree Kock, and W. by N. of the South bluff of P.ijienburg, is the Barracouta,
R sunken rock, which may be cleared to the southward by kecpin;: the summit
of the coast range (800 ft.) over Megami Point open of Papenburg, bearing
East.
Papenburg, or Takaboko, 2 cables S.E. of Kamino sima, is the small pro-
* This rock or islet was the oKi rvirp p^ce of Sir EdwHrd Brlchor, in 1842, from whidft
■evural meridian liistniicoa were nioaiiurcd U) Lu-clui, Uuel|Htrt, itc
r
■
Ml!
I'
Nil
f ,1^
!;!i
•!!!
I ,:
902
THE JAPANESE AECHIPELAGO.
cipitous island covered with dnik foliage, which so well marks the entrance to
the harbour. It may be passed at half a cable, in 18 fathoms. In 1G3G a
massacre of Japanese Christians took place here, they being hurled over the
cliff and dashed to pieces on the rocks beneath. At one-third of a mile to the
N.E. of it is the small flat wooded island A^czttmi sima,* lying off the small bay
of Kibatsu, East of the large village of Kosedo. Foul ground extends about 3
cables 8.E. of Nozumi.
Swinger Kook, discovered by II.M.S, Swinger, 187G, a dangerous sunken
rock, about 8 ft. square, with only 4 ft. on it at low water, lies nearly midway
between Ogami Point and Papenburg Island, and in the fairway of the entrance
to Nagasaki Harbour. To clear it, keep Signal Head well open of Kabuto
saki fort.
The HASBOUR of NAGASAKI, an arm or inlet running in a north-easterly
direction from the head of Nagasaki Ray, is large and commodious, thoroughly
sheltered from all winds, and available for ships of all classes. From its en-
trance, which is 3 cables wide between Ogami Point on the West and Megami
Point on the East, it runs 2 miles N.E. by N. to the city, increasing to a
breadth (although irregularly, owing to several bays on its shores), of three-
quarters of a mile. Above the city it narrows again, taking a northerly direc-
tion for another mile to its head, which is exceedingly shallow. The depths
decrease gradually from IG fathoms at the entrance to 4 fnthoms off the city.
There is a battery on Ogami Point, and a temple stands on the South extreme.
A sunken rock lies about 70 yards South of the East extreme.
Megami Point is at the foot of a steep ridge, on which are three batteries,
one above the other. At 1 J en.blc within it (a small islet lying between them)
is another point, on the extreme of which, in a battery, was a remarkable large
tree.
The harbour has three approaches. The principal one or fairway is directly
from the N.W., the entrance of which, 4 miles outside the harbour, is between
Fukuda saki and Iwo sima, and carries vci-y deep water, 32 fathoms, decreasing
to 20 fathoms in the passage between Papcnbuig andKageno, and again to 15
and 16 fathoms at the entrance of the harbour.
The second iipproach is by Oki Channel, between Oki sima and Koyaki, but
it is only .3 cables in breadth, and further narrowed by the reefs which extend
into the channel 1^ cable from cither shore. There are irregular soundings of
7 to 19 fathoms in it, and the best course through is midway between the reefs
which are seen. Neither this channel nor its approaches have been yet
thoroughly examined.
The third approach is by the South channel, between Koyaki and the main,
and can only be used by steam-vessels. Narrow and intricate amongst tho
• Thp observing place of Itichards in 1856, from which meridian distancrs were meaHured
to Hong Kung, liiikodato, &o.
Tf
ii
■ IJH, III II" '#,*»> '
KIUSIU ISLAND— NAGASAKI.
903
the entrance to
ns. In 1G36 a
urled over the
af .1 mile to the
fT the small bay
xtcnds about 3
igcrous sunken
nearly midway
of the entrance
pen of Kabuto
north-easterly
3US, thoroughly
From its cn-
^st and Megami
ncreasing to a
)vcs), of thrco-
lortherly dircc-
'. The depths
ms off the city.
South extreme,
hree batteries,
between them)
markable largo
way is directly
)ur, is between
ms, decreasinar
nd again to 15
id Koyaki, but
which extend
r soundings of
ween tlie reefs
ave been yet
and the main,
amongst the
i wure meaaured
reefs, with soundings varying from 4 to 15 fathoms, it cannot be recommended,
and can only be taken at the risk of the navigator.
Ilishmo Haul; which fronts the shore from Dcsima to the foreign settle-
ment, is a good and convenient place for grounding. Its western edge is steep,
but off Desima, W. by S. of the Dutch Consulate flagstaff, the bank is very
flat. Thi- is the anchorage recommended especially for gimboats and other
small vcs-els.
The u>ual anchorage for men-of-war is just above the British Consulate
Bluff, large ships anchoring in G to 7 fathoms rather over towards Minayc
Point,* at this the broadest part of the deep water of the harbour. Merchant
vessels usually anchor off the foreign settlement in 4 to G falhoius, or even
above Dcsima in 3 fathoms. In the hot weather of July and August, great
relief may be experienced from the closeness of the atmosphere, and it will be
beneficial to the health of the crews to spring the ship's broadside to the sea
breeze, which, in fine weather, is almost constant from the S.W., and generally
very fresh, until about the middle of August, when laud a;id sea breezes occur.
The best anchorage for holding ground and weather, clear of town, creeks, and
drains, is with Owara Creek bearing S. 55° E., and Minajje Point S. 50° W.,
in 6^ fathoms. The anchorage northward and inshore cf the hulk moored off
Owara Creek should be avoided, as the surface of the bottom is coated with
about a foot of soft slimy mud, through which light anchors drag easily.
The CITY of NAGASAKI, a treaty port, at present second only in im-
portance to Yokohama, and which was the only ])lacc of trade open to
foreigners between 1G23 and 1857, covers a broad valley on the eastern side
of the harbour, surrounded by lofty hills. Its population amounts to about
-10,000; there were 248 European residents in 1884. Nagasaki is one of the
five imperial cities of Japan, and is under the jurisdiction of a governor hold-
ing his appointment from the Mikado.
Desima, the historic site of the Dutch factory, and artificially formed, pro-
jects into the harbour on the S.W. side of the city, to which it is only con-
nected by a stone bridge. Shaped like the border of a fan, it is 250 yards in
length, and 80 yards in width, and is traversed by a central street. Desima
contained the residences and warehouses of the Dutch community, the Con-
sulate be'ng situated at its &.W. angle. At the broad steps at its West end is
the best place for landing at the city.
The Chinese community, numbering 644 in 1884, occupy the square secluded
block of houses S.E. of Dcsima, connected with the shore by a bridge. They
compose a trading guild and factory.
The foreign settlement is on the flat South of Dcsima, having a water front-
age of 730 yards ; it also stretches up the valley on Owara Creek on the South.
• Tho rock on the South side of Miniige Point, to wliicli all the meridian distances aro
referred, is u convenient and quiet spot for t«king observations.
\m
f
i
wmm
I i
iiy
904
THE JAPANESE AECIIIPELAGO.
The British Consulate is upon the bluflf South of this creek, where there is a
good landing-place. There arc also two landing-places in front of the settle-
ment, but only the lower one can be approached at low water. The American,
French, and Portuguese Consulates are on the hills at the back of the settlement.
The Japanese Custom-house is situate directly East of Desima, but is not
accessible to boats before a quarter-flood. The exports chiefly consist of coal,
dried fish, rice, camphor, and tea, their value in 1883 amounting to £647,361.
The imports are chiefly cotton, cotton goods, kerosene, sugar, and metals, their
value in the same year amounting to £187,731. Of late years the imports
have been much fulling off in value, while the exports have largely increased.
Munitions of war, by the 14th article of the treaty, can only be sold to the
Japanese Government and to foreigners.
" Though Nagasaki is only third in the list of the open ports as regards the
extent of its trade, it stands first as regards the numbers and tonnage of the
shipping resorting to it. This apparent anomaly is due to its being the main
source of the coal supply for the East of Asia. No less than 158 of the ships,
of 75,226 tons, entered last year (1883), came here in ballast; and of that
number only 15 went out either in ballast or with cargoes other than coal." —
Mr. Consul Hall.
In 1883, 339 foreign vessels, M'ith a total tonnage of 239,149, entered here,
of which 211, with a tonnage of 145,705, were British. In the same yeai',
1,066 Japanese vessels entered, with a total tonnage of 410,462.
Dock. — There is a dry dock, 420 ft. long, with an entrance 89 ft. wide, and
a depth of 27 ft. over the sill at high water, on the West side of the harbour,
1 mile South of the Arsenal. To avoid a bank extending IJ cable E.S.E. of
its South side, the dock should be approached from northward of East. A
ridge, with 24 ft. over it at high water, existed across the entrance, but this
was being deepened to 27 ft. A red mooring htotj is moored in 34 ft., at low
water springs, and a vessel 400 ft. long would just swing clear of the bank at
half tide.
I There is also a Patent Slip, 550 ft. long, capable of taking a vessel of 1,600
tons.
'Time Signal, — A guu is fired at noon, local mean time, a red and white
triangular flag being hoisted 5 minutes before.
Supplies, — All provisions are plentiful (mutton excepted), cheap, and easily
obtained, as also is wood and water ; the latter is brought off in boats to the
shipping. Coal is abundant ; there are several mines in the vicinity, the chief
of which is in operation at Taka sima. There is a Japanese Government
Bteam-factory and arsenal at Akunora, on the West side of the harbour, where
there are facilities for repairing iron vessels.
The telegraph cable from Shanghai is landed on the peninsula of Senbon,
after passing northward of Kageno sima and Iwo sima. Vessels are forbidden
to anchor in its vicinity, its direction being marked by beacons on shore.
Wf-"-
KIUSIU ISLAND— NAGASAKI HAUIiOUR,
90o
llioro there is a
It of the settle-
I The American,
' the settlement.
|ima, but is not
consist of coal,
bg to £647,361.
Ind metals, their
ps the imports
rgely increased,
be sold to the
s as regards the
tonnage of the
being the main
58 of the ships,
St ; and of that
!r than coal." —
9, entered here,
the same year,
2.
39 ft. wide, and
of the harbour,
cable K.S.E. of
rd of East. A
trance, but this
n 34 ft., at low
of the bank at
vessel of 1,600
red and white
eap, and easily
n boats to the
inity, the chief
ie Government
larbour, where
ila of Senbon,
I are forbidden
on shore,
I
Pilots, cither Japanese or European, can always bo obtained. It is said that
they are well acquainted with their business, and that it is their custom to
take entire charge of the navigation of the ship ; but great caution should
be used in this respect, as some of them have only knowledge of particular
localities.
Tides. — It is high water at Nagasaki, on full and change, at 7*' 15™ ; springs
rise 9 ft., neaps about 7i ft., but they are variable. The current in the harbour
is always sluggish. A strong southerly wind is said to raise the levei of high
water at springs to 2 ft. above the ordinary level.
DIRECTIONS.— The entrance of Nagasaki, although safe of approach, is
sometimes difficult for a stranger to make out from a distance, especially in
clear weather, when the islands blond with the mainland ; but on nearer ap-
proach, or in slightly hazy weather when the islands appear in relief, the un-
certainty is removed. It is said that vessels from the S.W. are very liable to
make the entrance South of Iwo sima.
When making Nagasaki from S.W. or West, steer for the lighthouse and to
round Signal Head, the North end of Iwo sima, at a quarter of a mile, taking
care not to bring the light to bear northward of N.E. by N. (on which bearing
it is obscured) on approaching it. By keeping the light in sight, or during
the day keeping the North point of Iwo sima bearing eastward of N.E. by N.,
will clear the shoal water off the dangerous Soto no hirase Bock. After round-
ing the head, steer E. i S. for Papenburg Bluff, passing it as closely as con-
venient, but taking care to avoid Barracouta Rock ; then E.N.E. for the en-
trance. At night do not bring Iwo sima light to bear northward of W. J N.
Passing in raid-channel between Ogami and Megami Points, a N.E. course
direct for the Dutch flag on Desima will then lead up in the best water, and
when the factory of Akunora, on the West shore, opens of Minage Point,
N. by W., a large vessel should haul up N.N.E., and anchor in 6 fathoms be-
tween it and the British Consulate or foreign settlement.
In approaching from the north-westward, the coiu-se from IJ mile S.W. of
Hike sima is S.E. by E. Iwo sima will be made without difficulty (appearing
end on, and under the mountain range Kawar.,yama, the highest on the Naga-
saki Peninsula), and passing about 1 luilc northward of it Papenburg will be
seen over the three low islands outside Kamino sima.
There is little or no difficulty in entering or leaving Nagasaki at night, if the
weather be fine, as the light on Signal Head, Iwo sima, is visible 21 miles in
clear weather, and the red light on Kageno sima now greatly facilitates night
navigation ; but should a vessel, from calms or adverse winds, be unable to
enter, every endeavour should be made to get inside Papenburg if it be the in-
tention to anchor, for outside this island the water is inconveniently deep, and
it would be preferable to stand off and on till djiB
■" '« If '
■.■fr
' li
m
^j!..-
I!'
If
906
THE JAPANESE AECIIirELAGO.
Anchornge can, however, be found in 20 to 20 fathoms, over a bottom of thick
green oazc with fine sand, good holding ground, or possibly rock or sand and
shells if near Hiraso Ifock. A vessel will lie here sheltered from all winds ex-
cept N.W., but exposed to the swell from that qiarter. There is also anchor-
oge East of Pnpenburg and Kageno, in 13 to 17 fathoms, or in 11 fathoms on
a bank S.W. of Megami Point ; the bottom here is mud, and the shelter good
except from West. Towards the eastern shore the ground is irregular and
probably rocky.
The East Coast of Nagasaki Peninsula.— About 22 miles of the eastern
side of Nagasaki Peninsula has been surveyed. It has generally a bold steep
coast, but there are several places on it where a vessel, blown to leeward of
Nomo saki by West winds, will find anchorage and good shelter from them.
Kaba simr., 2 miles East of Nomo saki, is covered with steep hills about 400
feet high ; its shores are mostly bold and abrupt, with rocks a cable off them.
Kabasima Bay, between Nomo saki and Kaba siina, affords anchorage at its
N.W. part only, open between S.E. and S.W., with reefs drying IJ cable off.
The eastern part of the bay, where a long sandy beach is seen, should be
avoided, there being a sunken rock. Bay liocl;, with 6 ft. Mater on it, and 4
and 6 fathoms about it, lying li mile E. I N. from Nomo Rogk, and 1 mile
N. i W. of the West point of Kaba sima.
Misaki Bay, North of Kaba sima, and East of the low jutting point and
sandy beach where stands the large village of Misaki, affords anchorage in 7
to 11 fathoms. It is gained from the westward by rounding, at not less than
2 cables distance, the South and S.E. points of Kaba sima, the latter a steep
hca'^ from which steer to pass outside a low reef (East Hocks) 1 mile N. by E.
of that head, which being passed, steer N.W. J W. into Misaki 13ay, and anchor
cither in 10 fathoms East of the flat rocks (on which may be seen a large bam-
boo erection used by the fishermen, whose nets it will require care to avoid) ;
or, passing North of the flat rocks, anchor in 7 or 8 fathoms. The channel
North of Kaba sima has a depth of G to 17 fathoms, but is only a cable wide.
Between East Eocks and Kaba sima the reefs leave only a narrow 4-fathom8
channel. Fish is plentiful here.
Tameitsi Bay is 4i miles N.E. of Misaki. To enter it, steer for the village
at its head, and when Kaba sima shuts in behind the southern point of the bay,
anchor in 10 fathoms or less, about 2 cables off" shore. Sitziwura, a small bay
2 miles ftirther N.E., has anchorage in 9 to 10 fathoms, at 2 cables off" shore.
Between Sitziwura and Mogi Bays, islets and reefs extend 2 or 3 cables from
the shore.
Moyi, another small bay, is 5^ miles N.E. of Tameitsi. Small craft can an-
chor in 3 to 6 fathoms, sheltered except from South to East ; and larger vessels
in 9 to 1 1 fathoms ofl" the entrance.
Aba Buy, 3 miles N.E. of Mogi, and 15 miles from Kaba sima, is rectangular
in shape, 1 i mile deep, and 1 mile in breadth. 'I'here is anchorage in the
I li!
' mm mmmmmimm
bottom of thick
ck or sand and
•ra nil winds ex-
is also nnchor-
11 fathoms on
the shelter good
s irregular and
s of the eastern
lly a bold steep
n to leeward of
?r from them,
hills about 400
cable off them,
nchoragc at its
ng IJ cable off.
iccn, should be
?r on it, and 4
gk, and 1 mile
tting point and
anchorage in 7
^t not less than
5 latter a steep
1 mile N. by E.
I3ay, and anchor
en a large bam-
!aro to avoid);
The channel
a cable wide,
•row 4-fathoms
for the village
3int of the bay,
'•a, a small bay
bles off shore.
3 cables from
1 craft can an-
l larger vessels
is rectangular
horage in the
7
4
%
KIUSIU ISLAND— SIM A!) AHA GULF.
907
centre, in 7 fathoms, open only between South and S.E. There is a boat
camber at the village on its western side. There is a road hence to Nagasaki,
only 3 miles distant. Maki sima, on the East side of Aba Bay, cxloscs on the
N.E. a harbour for small vessels, having 10 to 12 ft. water, accessible by two
narrow passages.
SIHABARA GULF.— Of this large gulf, which extends 70 miles into the
heart of Kiusiu, comparatively little is known. Siinabara, a large and broad
peninsula, so situated as to make this gulf an inland sea, has on its eastern
shore a city of the same name. In the centre of the peninsula is an active
volcano, i'zcii, 5,000 ft. high, a dark cloud of smoke usually resting over its
summit ; to the eastward is a second summit rising at the back of the city.
This is the focus of a wide volcanic region, and is associated with some of the
severest earthquakes on record, one of which, in 1 'i 93, was felt throughout
the whole of Kiuxiu, and is said to have changed the configuration of the
whole coast-line of the adjoining province of Higo, and the general form of
its territory.
Jlaya saki Channel, the passage into Simabara Gulf is about 2 J miles wide.
In its entrance is a rock imcovcring 5 ft. at low water, reported by Captain
Stevens, of the steam-ship Filipino. It bears N. 20" W. from the East ex-
treme of Tsuji sima, on the South side of the entrance, and N. 64° W. from
the East extreme of Oosima. Several other rocks are reported to lie south-
word of it. The tide runs with great velocity, producing whirlpools. On
clearing the entrance, the flat-topped island I'm sinia is seen ahead.
Knchinotsu, or Futsiuolsu, a junk harbour at the S.l', end of Simabara
Peninsula, is the place of shipment for coal from the Muke mines, the output
of which amounted to 142,3 10 tons iu 1883. On its western entrance point is
a white ligJithouse, 16 ft. high, showing ajixed hri
IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)
1.0
I.I
|50 "'^™ MHB
2.2
i4£ 1^
us. 2.0
1.8
1-25 \U 1.6
*i
6"
►
Photographic
Sciences
Corporalion
33 WEST MAIN STREET
WEBSTER, N.Y. M5S0
(716) 873-4503
/I^>
\^>^
45^
6^
i.^-'
L,^
flu
lli.,
; I!
: li
;i|
m
THE JAPANESE ARCHIPELAGO.
point of Amakusa. The harbour is formed by a low wooded tongue of land,
curving round to the westward and enclosing it, giving complete shelter, the
entrance being from the S.E. by a channel pnly 150 yards wide, carrying 5
fathoms water close along tho South side of the low tongue. A vessel may
anchor in the centre of the harbour, in 6 fnthoins.
Sagitan no ura, or Kame wa, 14 miles S. by W. of Tomiokn, is a narrow
inlet extending 4^ miles o^s'ward, the channel leading to its narrow entrance
being rocky and uneven. Nearly 2 miles north-wcstwnrd of the entrance are
n low rock and two pinnacle rocks, forming good marks. A rcof appears to
extend N.N.E. from them towards Taka hama, a rock about 2 miles distant.
The land around the harbour is high, and well cultivated. Supplies and water
can be obtained at Susinolsu, the principal village ; beef is moderately cheap.
The head of the inlet is shoal.
On the South side, within the entrance, is Kame Ufa, almost closed by a
bank of shingle. A shoal of less than 3 fathoms extends from its West point
towards the North shore, and only 4 fathoms can be corried ot low water be-
tween, and in passing through this narrow channel care must be taken to avoid
a sunken rock off the North shore. In entering, after passing the North point,
keep the northern shore on board until Kame urn opens out. Round the pro-
montory facing Kame ura at half a cable until the channel leading to the inner
anchorage opens, when anchor as convenient. The best anchorage is half a
mile N.E. of the narrow pass, off Min-ga sima Islet, in 7 to 10 fathoms, per-
fectly sheltered from ull winds. It is high water, on full and change, at S** ;
springs rise 9 feet.
£oto no ura. South of Sagitsu no ura, has a series of detached reefs in its
centre. Kotame Bay, on the South end of Amakusa, has a depth of 8 to 10
fathoms, and is well protected by Kasu sima. A reef lies in the centre. In
rounding Kasu sima do not approach too near the S.E. rock, as reefs have been
observed breaking outside it.
OTENTOSAMA SEA, between the western shore of Kiusiu and Amakusa
and numerous other islands to the eastward, extends in' a N.E. direction for 41
miles with an average breadth of 6 or 8 miles. It is studded with islets an<\
rocks, and communicates by two channels v ith Simabara Gulf. The northern
part is shoal, and blocked by sand-banks and rocks. Naga sima lies at the
southern entrance to this spacious inland sea, leaving only narrow channels on
either side. JCuro no seto, the southern entrance, is a safe and clear strait, but
should only be passed at slack water, as the tides run with great velocity. The
channel inside the Otentosama Sea, between Sisi sima and the islands to the
westward, is foul.
At 17 miles southward of Kuro no seto is Yoshiku muaki, th« western point
of a mass of high land rising to a peak 1,694 ft. high. At 1 mile N.N.W. of
it is Kamo tima, a small tower-like rock, 20 ft. high. The river Stndai kawa,
tongue of land,
plete eheltiT, the
wide, carrying 5
A vessel may
oka, is a narrow
narrow entrance
the entrance are
reef appears to
2 miles distant,
pplies and water
loderately cheap.
lost closed by a
its West point
t low water be-
)c taken to avoid
;he North point,
Hound the pro-
ling to the inner
lorago is half a
fathoms, per-
i change, at S"";
lied reefs ia its
pth of 8 to If,
the centre. In
reefs have been
and Amakusa
Jireetion for 4 1
irith islets and
The northern
»a lies at the
w channels on
lear strait, but
velocity. The
islands to tho
western point
e N.N.W. of
Sttidai kawa,
KRJSIU ISLAND— TOMARI URA.
navigable for 20 miles by boats, enters the sea 3^ miles northward of Yoshika
misaki ; at its entrance is the large fishing village of Oumiiaki,
At 3 miles S.S.E. of Yoshiku misaki is Haahima taki, 4^ cables S.W. of
which is Okino sima, a densely-wooded islet 301 ft. high. In the bight east-
ward of this point there is good anchorage in 7 fathoms off the village of
Hashima, sheltered from northerly and westerly winds. At 4^ miles south-
eastward is Nagataki bana, a rocky shelving point, with n dangerous reef ex-
tending over half a mile southward of it. From hence to the southward is a
long stretch of sandy beach for 19 miles, backed by low hills. A*in/>o«an, 2,100
feet high, with three summits, lies about 4 miles from the coast. Near the
centre of this bight, and 5 miles off shore, is Futa sima, a bare rock, 126 ft.
high.
Noma no hana, the most western part of Kiusiu, is cliiTy to seaward, and
surrounded by detached rocks, mostly above water. Xome Jima and Iltraie,
a group of islets and rocks, lies nearly three-quarters of a mile northward of it,
with sunken rocks between. Hence the coast trends 3^ miles eastward, form-
ing rocky points, as far as Kata ura.
Kata ora is a small harbour, completely sheltered from all winds, and pro-
tected by two islets. The squalls arc, however, violent, especially with westerly
winds. Inside tho bay is the village of Kata, and at its head is Ko ura village ;
fish, fowls, and occasionally a bullock mny be otained here. The entrance is
somewhat difficult to make out, and, as foul ground extends for about two-
thirds of a mile northward of tho eastern entrance point, care should bo
taken to keep well over to the westward, until sufficiently close to make out
the two small islets off the entrance, between which is the fairway in, 2| cables
wide. A large ship will find the best anchorage in 12 fathoms, mud, abreast
Kata village ; a ship of moderate size may anchor farther in. Near the head
of the harbour it is shoal for some distance from the shore. It is high water,
on full and change, at G** 55" ; spriiigs rise 8 ft., neaps 2 to 3 ft.
From Noma no hana the rocky coast trends 6 miles S.S.E. to Tsuruha saki.
Noma no take, a peak 1,964 ft. high, is conspicuous from seaward. Beroejtma,
3^ miles 8.E. i S. fro:n Noma no hanc is 8 cables long, and was covered with
grass and stumps of dead trees. SAe wan she, a rock with less than 6 ft. water
over it, lies 2 miles N.W. by W. from Tsuruha saki ; the sea breaks heavily
on it in bad weather. Tsuruka saki rises as an almost perpendicular cliff from
a base of detached rocks extending 2^ cables from it. Sura take, 816 ft. high,
lies 1^ mile inland from it. Sushi ura, to tho southward, is very open and ex-
posed, and of little use as an anchorage.
TOMABI XJEA, 9j^ miles South of Noma no hana, is a sheltered harbour,
protected from all winds except those from West and S.W.; and from these
quarters the sea is broken by a cluster of detached rocks stretching south-
eastward from the North entrance point, O she, the southernmost rock, being
96 ft. high. At the head of the harbour is a village on a sandy beaoh, where
910
THE JAPANESE ARCHIPELAGO.
small quantities of fowlo, fisii, &o., may b« procured. The coast hereabouts is
rooky, and numerous detached rocks extend from 1 to 2^ cables off nearly all
the prominent points.
Between she Uook and a small rock, dr}-ing 1 foot, half a cable off the
South entrance point, the entrance is 4 cables wide, and when within it the
rocky islet, Matu sima, will bo seen on the South side of the harbour ; and the
course may be altered to the eastward to pass it. Large ships should anchor
in 11 fi^thoms, with O she open about three times its breadth northward of
Matu sima. Vessels of moderate size will find bettor shelter by anchoring
more to the southward in 9 to 10 fathoms, with the summit of Matu sima in
line with O she. It is high water, on full and ohocge, at 7** 10"; springs rise
8 ft., neaps 3 to 5 ft.
The situation and capabilities of Tomari ura render it an important harbour,
especially as one of refuge to ressels experiencing signs of a typhoon in tho
neighbourhood of Van Diemen Strait. Indeed, it is the only secure harbour
on the coast for 130 miles N.E. of Sata no misaki. In deciding to bear up for
it when tho weather showed unmistakeable signs of a coming typhoon, it would
be necessary to bo sure of making it before thick weather came on.
Me laki, 1^ mile South of Tomara ura, is a cliffy point, with two sunken
rocks 1 cable off it. Tide-rips are frequent westward of it, and between it
and Okaimon daki patches of discoloured water will often bo met with at 1 or
2 miles off shore.
Makara Bay, 3^ miles East of Me saki, is 2 miles wide, and on tho sandy
beach at its head stands the town of Makurn. Tatle se, a pinnacle rock 145
feet high, lies 2 cables off the western point. Anchorage, sheltered from
northerly and north-westerly winds, may be had off the town. The depths
decrease regularly, with sandy bottom, but the West side shoals some distance
from the shore.
From Shemmi hana, the East point of Makura Bay, tho coast trends 4}
miles eastward to Akaeshc hana, and thence 2 miles south-eastward to Okaimon
daki (p. 783) ; it is fronted generally by a sandy beach.
Tides. — Between Noma no hana and Me saki the flood sets to the northward
along the coast ; tho streams run 2^ to 3 knots an hour during springs, causing
tide-rips off the prominent points. Between Me saki and the entrance tu
Kogosima Gulf, neither stream is very strong within 2 miles of the shore,
enabling sailing ships to work along shore to the westward.
XOSHIKI ISLANDS, consisting of two large islands with numerous smaller
islands, lies 12 miles off the mainland of Kiu3iu, and extend 20 miles N.E. and
S.W. lliey are very hilly, the highest peak, Oda yama, on the northern coast
6f the southern island, attaining an altitude of 2,036 ft. The inhabitants are
poor and ill-clad, and are principally engaged in fishing and agriculture. This
grf up wo^ examined by Commander Aldi-ich, II.M.S. Sjflvia, 1879, and the
fullowicg description is taken from his report.
'^0^
hereabouts »
off nearly all
cable off the
within it the
>our ; and the
lould anchor
northward of
)y anchoring
Motu siina in
springs rise
tant harbour,
)hoon in the
ecure harbour
to bear up for
loon, it would
in.
1 two sunken
id between it
t with at 1 or
on the snndy
aelo rock 145
ihcltcrcd from
The depths
some distance
ast trends 4^
rd to Okaimou
he northward
rings, causing
) entrance tu
of the shore,
eroiis smaller
lies N.E. niid
orthern coast
labitants are
ulture. This
}79, and the
KIUSIU ISLAND— KOSHIKI ISLAND.
Oil
Shlmo no Koihiki, the largest and southern island, is about 12 miles long,
and 4 miles wide at its broadest part, the northern part tapering off to a narrow,
rocky, and hilly promontory. Teuchi ura, on the South coast, affords shelter
from all but southerly winds, in 8 fathoms, in about the centre of the bay, off
a large village. Ilocks extend off both points, the reef from the western en-
trance point narrowing the entrance to less thar. 5 cables. Ttubura tlaki, the
N.W. point of the island, is cliffy, rising abruptly to two sharp peaks about
530 ft. high. A rock, awash, lies aearly 2 cables West of it. To the south-
ward the East coast is rocky and steep, for n distance of 5 miles, to Oda yama
hnna, southward of which are two open bays, wirh a village in each ; near the
southern village is a fine waterfall.
Jmita no teto, the narrow channel separating Shimo no Koshiki from Tuira
jima, is navigable with due precautions ; but the current runs 2 to 3 knots or
more at springs, and overfalls form on either side. The passage is narrowed
at one part to less than 2 cables by reefs which project from either shore.
Taira Jima, about 3 miles long, and connected to Kami nn Koshiki by a
reef, forms in two or three hills of over 900 ft. in height. Rocks extend nearly
5 cables off the S.E. point, amongst them being a conspicuous islet 175 ft. high,
with trees on its summit.
Slami no (or Naka) Koshiki, the northern and most important island of the
group, is of irregular formation, the S.W. coast being broken up by inlets and
bays ; the South coast is steep and cliffy, and on the N.E. shore is a sandy
beach enclosing a long narrow lagoon. A group of detached rocky islets, with
several sunken rocks among them, extends 4 miles E.N.E. from the N.E. point,
in the channels between which the rapid tidal stre^ us cause tiue-rips and over-
fulls. The ebb sets to the S.E., and it is then dangerous to approach them
closely.
Nishi no ura, a deep bay on the North shore, affords shelter from all but
North and N.W. winds. The water shoals gradually to the village at its head.
iSato ura, a small bay on the East side of the island, affords no anchorage.
Talsu Maru, on the S.W. side of the island, affords secured and sheltered
anchorage. From the entrance the inlet extends northward for 1^ mile, and
is 4 to 5 cables wide ; it then branches into two narrow arms. Large vessels
should anchor about half a mile inside the entrance. Vessels of moderate size
may anchor in 16 fathoms, abreast the opening to the eastern arm, and small
vessels in 9 to 10 fathoms in the northern arm, abreast the village. The eastern
arm is too narrow for anchorage, but a vessel could be safely benched at its
head. It is high water, on full and change, at 1^ 40*°; springs rise 7^ ft., neaps
3 to 5 feet.
Eastward of the South point of Kami no Koshiki the coast forms a double
bight, in the eastern of which there is good anchorage. Kamita hana, sepa-
rating these bays, is very rocky ; and a reef, drying at low water, extends 21
cables from it.
913
THE JAPANESE ARCHIPELAGO.
i*
• I
11
l;
,
"i|!
.i''J
i
iiii
W '
m :
lilt;
I
Naka Konfiiki ura, the western bay, extends three-qunrters uf a mile to the
N.E., and at its head is the chief village of the group. Good anchorage muy
be obtained in 7 to 8 fathoms, sand, 4^ cables from the village, and midway
between the rooky and shelving shores. A few fish, fowls, eggs, ko., may bo
obtained.
Knro Kami, a pinnaole rook 72 ft. high, lies 3 miles K. i N. fro.ii the N.K.
point of Kami no Koshiki, and between arc several islets and rucks, the pas-
sages between which should not be attempted.
Haka no M, or Pioneer Rocks, discovered by H.M.S. Pioneer, in 1861, are
two dangerous rocks, the highest, 8 ft. above high water, lying about 2} miles
S.W. of Kuro kanii. The channel between Kuro kaiui nnd Kamo sima, off
the Kiusiu coast, is 9 miles wide, and in fine weather is perfectly safe. In
thick weather, however, Naka no so is dangerous, and vessels should then
keep to the eastward of it, where the depth is less than 30 fathoms, while
westward of it the depth is 30 to 45 fathoms.
During August and September a constant southerly set was experienced in
mid-channel between the Koshiki Islands and the coast, and allowance must
be made for the westerly set which occurs on the ebb stream South of Hashima
saki.
Taka sima, or the Symplegadei, a group of five small islets, extending 2
cables East and West, and H cable wide, lies S. by E. \ E., 11^ miles, from
Na saki, the S.W. point of the Koshiki Islands. They were examined, with
the groups to the S.W., by Lieut. Pearce, H.M.S. Sylvia, 1875. From the
northward or southward they appear as three : the S.W. and highest, 210 ft.
high, assumes a triangular shape ; the S.£. islet, 1 89 ft. high, has a round
summit; and the centre islet has the form of a pillar. The N.E. islet has two
pinnacles. Two small rocks lie South of Taka sima ; the eastern, 2 ft. above
high water, lies S. \ E., nearly 4^ cables, from the summit of Taka sima; the
western rock, 4 ft. high, lies 2 cables S. ^ W. from the same summit. A 15-ft.
shoal lies 1 cable S.E. } E. from the western rock. It is high water, on full
and change, at about 7^; springs rise about 9 ft. The ebb stream runs strongly
to the south-eastward.
Tsokara m, or Retribution Rockt, were discovered by H.M.S. Retribution,
in 1858. They lie S. ^ W., 8^ miles, from Taka sima, and consist of four
rocks, divided into two groups by a channel nearly 1 cable wide. When bear-
ing North or South they appear as two pinnacles, and when bearing East and
West only three are visible. The southern rock is 9G ft. high, and the northern
pinnacle 90 ft. high.
Udsi sima, or Roche Poneii Islands,* lying 15 miles S.W. of Tsukaru se,
extend 5 miles N.E. by N. and S.W. by S., and consist of four islands, with
* Thus named (and deservedly so, if a European name ia admisaiblu), after the Ingenieur-
hydrogxaphe of the French Expedition under Admiral Cecillo ia 1816. , > > . , ,
u.
•■I'tmr '
MHMiaiMMIMitdUM
DIRECTIONS— NAOAf?AKI TO 81MON08EKI STRAIT. 013
numerous rocks around them, the channels between the islands being naviga-
ble. The central and principal island is 1} mile long, with a conspicuous
conical summit 1,097 ft. high. Off the N.W. point are several pinnacle rocks,
among them being the Iluycock, 330 ft. high. A conical islet, 190 ft. high
lies near the S.K. point. At 1 mile E. by S. ^ S. from the S.W. point is u
small rock covering at high water, and at three-quarters of a mile from the
same point is another, 2 ft. above high water. Double IilanJ, 8 cables West' oi
the S.W. point, is 227 ft. high.
East Itland, three-quarters of a mile eastward of Udsi sima, is 344 ft. high ;
the channel between is narrowed to about half a mile by ofT-lying dangerous
rocks, and here Ashing-boats find shelter. An islet, 132 ft. high, lies a short
distance North of East Island, and a quarter of a mile from the East Hide are
two rocks 12 ft. high ; the eastern shore is cliffy, and fringed with off- lying
rocks, f^ami sima, or Chimney Bock, the southern rock, is 185 ft. high, and
2 cables long, lying S. by W. } W., 2^ miles, from the South extreme of Udsi
sima ; a small islet lies close to its North extreme.
ir the Ingeuieur.
DIEECTIONS from NAGASAKI to SIKONOSEKI STRAIT.— In passing
through the archipelago which encircles the western coast of Kiusiu, there arc
not more islands than just sufficient as good marks in thick weather. Their
coasts are generally bold ; anchorages abound, and an offing may generally be
made before nightfall, should that or the approach of thick or stormy weather
render it desirable. The tides are regular within the islands. Outside, the N.E.
stream is almost constant in the offing.
]f proceeding outside Ilirado, after leaving Nagasaki, steer N.W., unless
wishing to pass outside Hiki siiaa. A run of 16 miles will place a ship abreast
thut island, and a further run of 1 3 miles on the same course will lead up mid-
cliannel between Ou tate and Yenoi sima, from which position a N.N. W. course
for 11 miles will reach the islets off the S.W. point of Ilirado. Puss a milo
outside these islets, und also of the A^'.ika sima 3 miles North of them, unless
intending to take the Obrce Channel (p. 88G), in which case pass inside them,
and steer N.E. by N. directly for it.
Coasting Hirado and Ikutski on a N.N.E. course, a run of 13^ miles from
Ou Azika simu will place a vessel off the North point of Ikutski ; then steer
N.E. by E. for 7 miles until past Use, the small rock off the N.W. face of
Atsusi no O sima, which, if not seen, may be cleared by keeping the summit
of Mudara in line with the summit of Mats' sima, bearing K. ^ N. Fussing
Usfi at Ij mile distant, niter course to E. by N. f N. to pass in mid-chunnel
between Futnkami and Madura, from whence at night Yebosi light should bo
North I'ucijic, 6 A -
914
THE JAPANESE ARCHIPELAGO.
■1 1|
11
sighted in clear weather ; oontinue on the same oourfe, pawing about 1 mile
westward of Vnbou tima. When that island or light bears S.K., alter course
to N.E. by I . ^ £. to clear Kuri no kami or Swain Reef, and pass northward
of Wilson Island, being careful lest the eastern tidal stream into the Strait of
Simonoseki, which sets rather strongly through the ehannels East of Wilson
Island, should set the yessel on to that reef.
By night, keeping Yebosi light bearing southward of S.W. by W. i W.,
will lead fully 2^ miles westward of Swain Keef; and the above course
(N.E. by E. i E.) continued on, should lead 1} mile westward of Kosime no
Oiisima.
THBOUOE 8PEZ STRAIT.— The inner passage from Nagasaki to the
Inland Sea by Spez or Hirado Strait is 15 miles less in distance than that out-
side Hirado, but it is seldom that a vessel is not obliged to anchor somewhere
for the night
The coatt rouU is taken by vessels who know the land, and in thick weather
prefer to sight it, and feel their way along from point to point. A more direct
course, however, is to steer straight for Ko tate or Bonnet Rock, but allowance
must be made for the current which, in the vicinity of Ou tate, and to the
southward, sets N.W. and S.E. ; so that a vessel in thick weather, and accord-
ing to the state of the tide, may be set either to the westward and northward
of her reckoning, or to the eastward, and towards the main. Having sighted
the easily-distinguished Ko tate, the bold bluff at the West end of Kuro sima
can be steered for, taking care to avoid that great danger, the Fukushe, marked
by a beacon, and remembering also the low rock otf the Went end of Kuro
sima.
After sighting the bluffs, vessels should steer for the South coast of Hirado,
which con be boldly approached to 1 or 2 cables, and by keeping it in sight at
2 cables distance the Costa Rica and Robinett Rocks will be avoided. Vessels
can run along the East coast of Hirado to the North as far as Kawatchi Bay,
when it is necessary to steer for the opposite shore, to avoid the Asama, before
entering the narrow port of Hirado Strait, at Red Cliff Point, from which the
vessel must be guided by the directions on pages 888-9.
When clear of the northern entrance of the strait, the course along the land
is N.E. by E. to Hato saki, distant 17 miles, steering for the clump beyond it
which is on the East bluff of Ogawa, the eastern of the three islands North of
Hato saki and Yobuko, and passing between the bluff S.E. point of that island
and the dangers South of it, but this channel is narrow and somewhat dan-
gerous. The same course will lead well outside the No o ze or Dove and
Nagamo or Ellis Reefs, which are 3 miles off shore, and may both be covered,
and outside but rather close to Swain Reef.
A preferable track may be pursued from Spex Strait, steering from it on a
N.E. I E. course to pass between Madura and Kagara, and rounding the N.W.
point of the latter at u mile ; from this a N.E. by E. i £. course will lead up
'4aii
SEA OF JAPAN— TSU SIMA.
015
about 1 mile
alter courM
M northward
the Strait of
St of WiUon
by W. i W..
tbove ooune
>f Koaime no
[asaki to the
ban that out-
ar somewhere
thick weather
A more direct
}ut allowance
9, and to the
r, and accord-
id northward
aving sighted
of Kuro sima
tushe, marked
end of Kuro
ist of Hirado,
; it in sight at
ided. Vessels
[awatchi Bay,
AHttma, before
>m which the
iong the land
imp beyond it
inds North of
of that island
mcwhat dan-
or Dove and
h be covered,
from it on a
ing theN.W.
will lead up
close to the West point of Wilson Ishutd, passing half a mile westward of
Yebosi.
Should the passage have been made by the Korea Strait, after rounding the
North point of Iki sima, steer E. f N. for the Siro simas at the entrance of the
Inland Sea, passing well northward of Orono sima with a elear run of 55 miles.
The tidal streams here are not Tery well known.
The 8SA of JAPAX, bounded on the East and South by the Japanese
Archipelago, and on the West and N.W. by the coasts of Korea and Russian
Tartary, is about 900 miles long, N.N.E. and 8.S.W., and GOO miles wide,
East and West, at its broadest part. As far as is known, it is clear of rocks or
dangers, with the following exceptions:—
Lianoonrt Sookl were discovered by the French ship Lianeourt, in 1849 ;
they were also called Menalai and Olivutsa Rocks by the llussian fri)>ato
Palla*, in 1854 ; and Hornet Islands by H.M.S. Hornet, in 1855. Captuiu
Forsyth, of the latter vessel, gives their position as lat. 37° 14' N., long.
131° 55' E., and describes them as two rocky islets, covered with guano, ex-
tending about 1 mile N.W. by W. and 8.E. by E., and apparently joined by a
reef. The western islet, about 410 ft. high, has a sugar-loaf form ; the eastern
is much lower, and flat-top ped.
MAT8T7 8I1IA, or Dagtlet Island, is a collection of sharp conical wooded
hills, crowned by an imposing peak, 4,0U0 ft. high, in the centre, in lat.
87° 30' N., long. 130° 53' E. It is 18 miles in circumference, and there are
several detached high rocks along its shores, some reaching an elevation of
400 to 500 ft. The shores are so steep that soundings could only bo obtained
by the Actmon'i boats, almost at the base of the cliffs. Landing may be
effected in fine weather with difiiculty. In spring and summer some Koreans
reside here, and build junks; they also oolleot and dry large quantities of
shell-fish.
Waywoda Rook is said to have been discovered by the Russian corvette
Watfwoda. It appeared to be 12 ft. high, 70 ft. broad, and its approximate
pmition is lat. 42" 14f N., long. 137° 17' E.
TSU SIMA, at the southern entrance to the Sea of Japan, in the Korea
Strait, is 37 miles long, N.N.E. and S.S.W., and belongs to Japan. Some
reefs and rocks lie off its. North and 8.W. ends ; a bertli, however, of 1^ mile
will dear everything. At high water a deep sound divides it into two parts,
the eastern part of this sound being an artificial canal, with 4 ft. in it at high
watF". The southern portion is mountainous, rising to a height of 2,126 ft.,
and on the North side is a double sharp peak, 1,700 ft. high, named Urfama,
forming like asses' ears when bearing 8.E. The northern portion is much lower.
The western entrance to Tsu sima Sound is 1^ mile wide, and clear of danger
except close to the shore. This spacious inlet possesses a large number of small
landlocked harbours and basins, all of them having deep watesy and vessels
1
. I
I-
I
il
!!i;l
.lilil
I
916
TIIE JAPANESE ARCHIPELAGO.
can moor to the rooki and trees. VeMeb requiring to be here down would
find this sound well adapted for careening purposes.
The Actmon anchored in 9 fathoms in Jma-haru Bojf, on the South side of
the entrance, about 2 cables South of ObserTatory Kook, the southemmoat of
two small rocks connected with the mainland at low water. This is a conTe-
nient anchorage for sailing vessels, or if only intending a short stay. Wood,
water, and vegetables were obtained, and some cattle and pigs were seen ; the
cornfields swarmed with pheasants. Coal exists on the N.W. side of the
island. It is high water, on toll and change, at S** SO", and the rise is 8 ft.
Itiuhara Bay, on the East side of Tsu slmo, in lat. 34° 12', is open from
E. by S. to S.E. by 9. Ittuhara, the capital, is situated on the N.W. shore.
The telegraph cable between Japan and the Korea is landed here.
^'iro Bay, at the N.E. end of Tsu sima, in lat. 34° 30', is reported by the
Japanese to be a good and safe anchorage at all times. , ,
The JAPAHE8E CVRREVT.— In the Chapter devoted to the Currents this
remarkable stream will be more particularly described in its extent, but a
few words here will form a fitting conclusion to this description of the Japan
Archipelago.
On the Jafianese charts the current is noticed as passing eastward off the
S.E. eo^at of Nipon, and is called Kuro Siwo, or the Black Stream, or KurO'
sertatoa. the current of the Black Gulf, from the bluish-black colour of its
w&ters. It was noticed by all early navigators, and more extended observation
has sfau^vn its analogy with the Gulf Stream of the Atlantic.
This immense oceanic current has its origin in the great North Eqoatorial
Current, which, on reaching the eastern shores of the Philippine Islands, is
deflected to the northward, and forms, eastward of the South end of Formosa,
the commencement of the Kuro siwo. Hence it flows rapidly between the
East coast of Formosa and the Meiaco sima group, and then takes a north-
easterly direction, westward of the Lu-chu IsUmds. Off the South end of
Kiusiu a branch turns to the northward into the Sea of Japan, gradually de-
creasing in velocity, and again flowing into the ocean through Tsugar and Im
P^rouse Straits.
The main body of the current passes to the E.N.E. between the islands
North of the Linschoten group, and through Van Diemen Strait, and then
along the southern shores of Kiusiu and Sikok, forming, near its margin, races
and tide-rips. After flowing through the chain of islands southward of Yedo
Gulf, the northern edge of the current leaves the coast of Nipon, and flows in
a north-easterly direction, a cold Arctic current, setting to the southward, in-
tervening between it and the N.E. shores of Nipen and Yezo. It now com-
mences to expand, its velocity greatly diminishes, and in about 160° E. it
Uk
THE KURO 8IW0.
017
re down would
e South aide of
outhernmost of
bis is a conve-
• ttajr. Wood,
irere seen ; the
V. side of the
) rise is 8 ft.
, is open from
9 N.W. shore,
re.
iportcd by the
I Currents this
eitent, but a
of the JopoQ
tword off the
am, or Kuro-
colour of its
)d observfttioa
th Equatorial
le Islands, is
I of Formosa,
between the
ikes a north-
South end of
^dually de-
sugar and La
divides, one stream, known as the Kamchatka Current, flowing to the north-
ward to Behring Sea, and the greater portion continuing to the eastward,
merging in the general easterly drift.
During the S W. monsoon the drift current ftom the China Sea joins the
main body of the Kuro siwo, which attains its greatest velocity, 2 to 3 knots
an hour, when abreast Sikok, where it has been known to set 100 miles in 24
hours. At thin season its maximum temperature is 86°, which differs about
12° from that of the occn due to the latitude. Off Nipon the N.W. edge of
the stream is strongly mark'.d oy a sudden thermal change in the water of firom
10° to 20° ; but the southern and eastern limits are less distinctly defined,
there being a gradual thermal approximation of the air acd water. A floating
seaweed is found in the stream, resembling the Fucum natant of the Oulf
Stream. ^
This current, howcTer, is considerably influenced in its limits and Telocity
by winds and local causes, as hereafter described.
Along the borders of the stream, where it chafes against tl counter currents
and torpid waters of the ocean, as also in its midst, where whirls and eddies
are produced by islands and the inequalities in its bed, strong tide-rips are en-
countered, often resembling heavy breakers on reefs or shoals.
& the islands
Ait, and then
margin, races
rard of Yedo
and flows in
mthward, in-
It now com-
it 160° E. it
( 018 )
I!!
,i
1 :i 1
!
1 .. , ,
It. i
■■ 1
! .1 !
SECTION III.
THE ISLANDS OF THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN.
In the companion Tolume to thia—that deaoribing the South Pacific Ocean —
allusion has been made to the imperfect notion that i* giren by inspecting a
map, of the importance and relative siae of the innumerable islands which are
scattered over these oceans. In many instances the minute coral spot, which
makes a considerable feature on the chart, could not be visibly represented of
its proper dimensions ; and this exaggeration is enhanced by the several names
by which it is distinguished, which seem to add to its siie and area. By far
the greater number of islets are of this coral formation. A few of the we'l-
known groups are volcamc, lofty, and of considerable dimensions ; but the
aggregate area of the dry land of the coral islands is remarkably small. In
most instances it is a mere strip surrounding the central lagoon, but of sur-
passing fertility, and supporting an immense population in proportion to the
actual area.
With a large proportion of the groups we are sufficiently intimate to affirm
that they are tolerably well represented; but in many instances they have not
been so acciirately surveyed as they ought to be, and the sameness of their
character renders this remark of the more importance, as it is difficult in many
instances to distinguish between small spots which so much resemble each
other. In the ensuing lists and descriptions we have stated the authority on
which the descriptions and the geographical position depend.*
As the structure, growth, and foundation of the coral islands is among the
most wonderful of all natural problems, we give here some extracts from the
work of Charles Darwin, Esq., who, while he accompanied the late Admiral
• In this edition it has not been thought neceissry to repest the quotations of the antho^
lilies which were given in *xttn»» in the flnt edition. To that work we, therefore^ refer the
reader who may he interested ia the history of the hydrography of the Paciflot
n
'i t
THE ISLANDS OP TIIR NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN.
019
■iom: but the
y uRoy in the Expedition in the Btaglt, aeeumulatod thoao atoree of know-
ledge which he made such abundant um of in later yean. We eonflne the
eztracta ttrictly to thoae remarks bearing on the structure of the coral islands.
Ur. Darwin says :— I will now givo n rery brief sooount of tho thrao gratt claaaei of
coral reafa, namely, Atolla, Barriar, and Fringing Reefc, and will explain my *iowa on thoir
formation. Almost eTorjr voyager who hni croaaod tho Paoiflc haa eipreat jd his nnboundod
astoniihment at the lagoon iilanda, or aa I ahull for tho future uall thom by their Indinn
name of Atolls, and haa attempted aomo explamition. Even aa long ago ait l
and the amoothneas of the bright groon water within tho lagoon, can har 1' bo im '^irinod
withont having been seen.
In previoua tho< 'ir' •• moat important conaidarotion hua boon ovurloohpd, nam.! v. on
what have the reof-builJing curals, which cannot livu at a groat depth, bused t)i 'ir .M.j I have called
and of islands.
Ihs, based their
b in tho case of
is surrounded
ding abruptly
Is bufore they
ior water, the
it this is very
'by the corals
5 ledge, often
accumulation
fhere the iu-
isitions in the
asedP Why,
oludodlandf
short notice,
rds in width,
^y under tho
but in such
at'on of ilio
THE ISLANDS OP THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN.
921
land is gently inclined. In fiwt, the reeb extend only to that distance from the shore at
which • foundation within the reqaisite depth, from 20 to 30 fathoms, is found. As far as
the actual reef is concerned, there is no essential difference between it and that forinini< a
barrier or an atoll ; it is, however, generally of a less width, and consequently few iilet«
have been formed on it. From the corals growing more rigorously on the outside, and
from the noxious effect of the sediment washed inwards, the outward edge of the reef is
the highest part, and between it and the land there is generally a shallow sandy channel
a few feet in depth. Where banks of sediment have accumulated near to the surface, as in
parts of the West Indies, they sometimes become fringed with corals, and hence in some
degree resemble lagoon ixlunds or atolls ; in the same manner as fringing reefs, surround-
ing gently-sloping islands, in tome dog^ree resemble barrier reefs.
No thwry on the formation of coral reefs can be considered sutisfactory which does not
include the three great classes. We have seen that we are driven to believe in the sub-
sidence of those vast areas, interspersed with low iitlands, of which not one rises above ihe
huight to which the wind and waves can throw up matter, and yet constructed by animals
requiring a foundation, and that foundation to lie at no great depth. Let us, then, take an
iitland surrounded Xty fringing reefi, which offer no difiSculty in their structure, and Itt this
island with its reef slowly subside. Now, as the island sinks down, either a few feet at a
time or quite insensibly, we may safely infer, from what is known of the conditions fovuur-
hble to the growth of coral, that the living masses, bathed by the surf on the margin vu
the reef, will soon regain the surface. The water, however, will encroach a little bv litli<*
on the shore, the island becoming lower and smaller, and the space between the inner eog»
of the reef and the beach proportionably broader. Coral islets are supposed to have bum
formed on the reef ; and a ship is anchored in the lagoon channel. This channel will be
more or less deep, according to the rate of subsidence, to the amount of sediment accumu-
lated in it, and to the growth of the delicately branched corals which can live there. Wa
can now see why encircling barrier reefs stand so far from the shores which they front.
We can also perceive that a line drawn perpendicularly down from the outer edge of the
new reef to the foundation of solid rock beneath the old fringing reef will exceed, by as
many feet at there have been feet of subsidence, that small limit of depth at which the
effective corals can live ; the little architects have built up their great wall-like mass, as
the whole sank down, upon a basis formed of other corals and their consolidated fragments.
Thus the difiSculty on this head, which appeared so great, disappears.
If instead of an island we had taken the shore of a continent fringed with reefs, and
have imagined it to have subsided, a great straight barrier, like that of Australia or New
Caledonia, separated from the land by a wide and deep channel, would evidently have been
the result.
Let us take our new encircling barrier reef, and let it go on subsiding. As tho barrier
reef slowly sinks down, the corals will go on vigorously growing upwards ; but as the
island sinks, the water will g^n inch by inch on the shore, the separate mountains flist
forming separate islands with one g^eat reef, and finally the last and highest pinnacle dis-
appearing. The instu.nt this takes place a perfect atoll is formed. I have caid, remove the
high land from withiiA an encircling barrier reef and an atoll is left, and the land has been
removed. We can new perceive how it comes tiiat atolls, having sprung from encinling
barrier reefs, resembli': them in g^eneral size, form in the manner in which they are grouped
together, and in their arrangement in single or double lines ; for they may be called rude
outline charts of the sunken island over which they stand. We can further see how it
arises that tho atolls in the Pacific and Indian Oceans extend iu lines parallel to the pre-
Notth Paci/ic. 6 b
922
THE ISLANDS OF THE NOETH PACIFIC OCEAN.
vailing strike of the high iiland and great ooaat lines of thoae oooans. I ventare, therefore^
to affirm, that on the the<»7 of the upward growth of the corals during the sinking of the
land, all the leading features iji thoae wonderful structures, the lagoon islands or atoUs,
which have so long excited the attention of voyagers, as well as in the no less wonderful
harrier reeft, whether encircling small islands or stretching for hundrods of miles along
the shores of a continent, are simply explained.
The arrangement of the following pages is similar to that pursued in the
volume on the South Faoific, viz., the islands and groups are described in
belts of latitude, each 10° in width, and proceed from the eastern side to the
western side of the oceaD in succession! commencing in this work with the
Equator.
( 923 )
CHAPTER XII.
ISLANDS BETWEEN THE EQUATOR AND LAT. 10" N.
Following the plan adopted in the South Pacific Directory, we commence
from the coast of America, and include in this Chapter the groups of islands,
the Gilbert Archipelago, which lie on the Equator, the Marshall Archipelago
to the North of it, and the Caroline Archipelago, lying within the same belt
of latitude. t
MALFEIO ISLAND, in lat. 3° 55' N., or, according to Commander Aldham,
H.M.S. Swi/l, July 22, 1851, 4° 3*N., long. 81° 36' W., is a barren, high,
perpendicular rock, which may be seen in clear weather at the distance of 60
miles, the summit being 1,200 ft. above the sea level. A small quantity of
green moss, and a few dwarf bushes, which grow in its cracks and guUeya,
afford the only verdure that it possesses. It is surrounded with islets, and the
whole may extend about 9 or 10 miles, from North to South. The centre of
thio island bears a resemblance, in several points of view, to the crown of a
head, and its being bn.rrcu accounts naturally enough for the name (bald head)
which the Spaniards have bestowed on it. It is surrounded, as it were, by a
strong current, having much the appearance of breakers, which, setting into
the gulf, and, being accompanied by light winds, with thick and hazy
weather, Colnett did not think it deserving of any further attention. The
current was found to set N.E. by E., 2^ miles an hour. Another statement is
made that they run violently to the southward and westward near it, a differ-
ence possibly owing to the different seasons they have been observed in.
Colnett's was in July, 1793. The rock itself bos 40 fathoms alongside of it,
and 110 fathoms at a quarter of a mile distent.
RIVADENETBA SHOAL.—" Being on board the steamer Peru, abreast of
Puna, October 22, 1842, and hearing that there was a terrible yellow fever
raging at Guayaquil, the steamer put back, and I was placed on board a small
schooner going to Realejo. On the 28th, in the middle of the day, the sea
calm, we bad caught a large turtle, when I observfd, at a few fathoms off, a
slis^ht swell on the sea ; we took the boat and went to it, when we sounded,
iv
924 ISLANDS BETWEEN THE EQUATOR AND LAT. 10° N.
and, to our astonishment, found only 16j^ft. (French ?) of water. In the centre
ot till!* cii •'■''■I' >ective plans given also coincide with the descriptions. These discrepancies
were decided in Vancouver's favour by Sir Edw. Belcher, in 1838, who places
the Observatory at the head of Chatham Bay, at the N.E. port of the island,
in lat. 5° 32' 57" N., long, (corrected) 87° 2' 10" W.
The island, according to Mr. Whidbcy's account, is about 12 miles in circuit,
with several detached rocks and islets scattered around its shores. Off the S. W.
point they extend to the greatest distance, nearly 2 miles, and would be dan-
gerous if they were not sufficiently high to be seen and avoided.
The island itself is very high, sufficiently so to be seen at more than 60 miles
distant ; and Vancouvvi- says that he lost sight of it at 46 miles W.N.W., not
from sinking below the horizon, but from being obscured by haze. The West
side is the highest, showing in the form of a round hill, descending to the
northern extremity, off which lies a detached islet. From the eastward the
southern part appears to rise abruptly from the sea, in steep rugged cliffs, to a
considerable height. The northern side is indented into small bayo, with rocks
nnd islets lying near them. The shores are chiefly composed of broken cliffy
perpendicular precipices, beyond which the surface rises unevenly to the sum-
mit of the island, the whole composed of one rude connected thicket of small
trees, near the shore ; but on the more elevated and interior parts of the island
are many large spreading trees, among which are cocoa-nut trees, but not in
such abundance as to distinguish the island.
The one great advantage which Cocos Island offiers, is the abundance of
MJii
HMMB
COCOS ISLAND.
925
fresh water. Apparently it is quite pure, and is very easily to be procured at
those points to which vessels can resort. Fish are abundant around the shores,
but would not take bait ; sharks in large shoals, and very voracious, are among
the number. Fowl of the oceanic kind visit the island, and afford tolerable
food. The cocoa-nuts, also, have been of great service to earlier navigators.*
All the trees for fuel have been out, and in 1838 there were no cocoa-nut trees
remaining which were accessible. Pigs are abundant.
Chatham Bay is the easternmost anchorage on the island. Vancouver moored
here in 33 fathoms, sand and gravel, good holding ground and free from rocks ;
the East point of the bay, which is a small conical islet close to the N.E. ex-
treme of the island, bore S. 51° E., half a mile distant; the West point of the
bay, 8. 75° W. ; a steep rocky islet lying off it, from S. 87° W. to N. 66° W. ?
and the watering place at the mouth of a very fine stream emptying itself over
a sandy beach, S. 13° W., about three-quarters of a mile distant. Outside this
the water deepens almost immediately. This bay is quite open to the North,
and Colnett states that though he found the prevalent winds to be from South
and West, he had it frequently strong from N.E. and North. Anchorage in 7
to 10 fathoms will be found farther in.
Wafer Bay, as it is named in Colnett's plan, is to the westward of the
former, and 1 mile distant from the North point ; it may be easily known by a
small rugged barren rock, about the size of a large boat, lying about 1 mile
West of the body of the bay. The bay also lies East and West, but is not
adapted for vessels of above 200 tons ; it is nearly sheltered from all winds.
Vancouver says it is certainly not so eligible a situation for procuring the good
things the island afTords as the bay to the eastward, although a more copious
stream of water flows into it.
llie climate of the island is humid. Vancouver considered it (January) tem-
perate and salubrious, but had heavy rains. Colnett, who stayed longer, ex-
perienced almost constant and very heavy rain. Flies, too, were very abundant
and annoying.
The tide is an important object in anchoring here. The time of high water
is ai 2" lO*", rising and falhng from 16 to 18 ft. The ebb sets to the East
at the rate of 4 or 5 knots, and the flood, which is weaker, runs to the West.
They are uninfluenced by currents. The current around is strong and irregular,
but generally setting to the north-eastward at the rate of 2 knots.f
* Colnett states that his men drank nn excessive qunntity of the milk, which did not in-
toxicate, but 80 benumbed them that they were unable to move without assistance : this
continued for four or five days. — Voyage to the South Seat, pp. 67-8.
t Oallego Itland was plHced on the charts in lat. 1° 48' or 1* 8' X., long. 101* W. Duncan
Itland was discovered in 1787, it is said, by Capt. Duncan, in a merchant vessel. He says
the island is small and rooky, in lat. 6° N., long. 106* W. Admiriil Krusenstem says it is
probably the same island as L'lle do la Tassion, in 16° a\' N., 106° W. In 1872, C!om-
926 ISLANDS BETWEEN THE EQUATOR AND LAT. 10° N.
' WALKSB I8LAHDS. — A wide extent of ocean intervenes in this belt of
latitude between the positions of the foregoing islands and that of the reported
isolated cluster which are named as above. From a notice preserved by Mr.
Purdy, they were discovered by Captain Walker, in 1814, and consisted of a
group of small, low, and well-wooded islands, in lat. 3° 34' N., long. 149" 15' W.
On some charts they are marked as Low Woody Islands, but their existence
is doubtful. ■ u
JABVIS I8LAHD.— Although this island is to the South of the Equator,
it is so connected with the groups which are next described, that we give it a
place here. It was discovered by Captain Brown, of the English ship Eliza
Francis, August 2l8t, 1821. As it was surveyed by the Peacock and Flying
Fish of Comm. Wilkes, U.S. Exploring Expedition, December, 1840, the posi-
tion then ascertained must be preferred to others, lat. 0" 22' S3" S., long.
159° 54' 11" W. Wilkes describes it as a small coral island, triangular in
shape, 1} mile long East and West, and a mile wide North and South. No
reef surrounds it, and it may therefore be safely approached, but it was con-
sidered very dangerous. It exhibits the appearance of a white sandy beach,
10 or 12 ft. above the sea, without a tree or shrub, and but a few patches of
grass. A few sea-birds were seen about it.
It is one of the islands worked by the American Guano Campany, and tho
description given by Mr. J. D. Hague shows that it is a raised coral island, the
interior lagoon having disappeared, and its bed being now 7 or 8 ft. above the
sea, with many marks indicating the gradual retreat of the sea. The vessels
which came here for the guano moored to mooring-buoys in very deep water,
in the same manner as at Baker Island.
It is certainly the same as Bunker Island, and perhaps, as no mention is
otherwise made of it, as Brocks Island, placed in 1° 13' S., long. 159° 40' W.
The other authorities generally place Jarvis Island somewhat tc the West of
Captain Wilkes's longitude.
' CHBISTMAS ISLAND, a coral lagoon island, was discovered by Captain
Cook, in the Resolution and Discovery, on Wednesday, December 24th, 1777.
He remained there till January 2nd ensuing, and observed an eclipse of the
sun, and from the season gave it the name. It is, like all other islands of the
same nature, a belt of low land, enclosing a lagoon, which, however, m this
cose is very shallow. It is so low that the land cannot be seen more than 8
mander IIiirriB, U.S.N., raw no indication of land or shoal in these localities, and from
this and searchus mnde by other U.S. Te»' \ it is obvious that they do not exist.
For further particulurs of these, and other reported dangers, see the " lists of Reported
Dangers to Navignlion in the Pacific Ocean," compiled at the U.S. Bureau of Nuvigation,
Wauhington. '■ . . . - . ' ; ; .
: . 'it
10» N. .
this belt of
the reported
rved by Mr.
msisted of a
149" 1 6' W.
eir existence
;he Equator,
we give it a
ship Eliza
i and flying
40, the posi-
13" S., long,
riangular in
South. No
it was con-
andy beach,
patches of
ny, and the
il island, the
t. above the
The vessels
deep water,
mention is
159° 40' W.
he West of
by Captain
24th, 1777.
lipse of the
lands of the
rer, kx this
ore than 8
M, and from
ist.
I of Reported
Nttvigation,
CHRISTMAS ISLAND.
1 V
927
or 10 miles off. The entrance into the lagoon is on the N.W. side, and is
divided into two channels, fit only for boats, by a small island, on which Cook
landed his instruments, and planted some cocoa-nuts, yams, and melon-seeds.
Here he also left a memorial of his visit.
The low land is covered with stunted bushes, and a few cocoa-nut and palm
trees here and there. From the S.E. to the N.W. points of the island the coast
runs about N.W. by W. f W., 22 miles, a deep bay running to the northward
from a point of land about 13^ miles from the S.E. point, near which were two
conspicuous cocoa-nut trees, bearing about N.E. by E., true, when in one with
the point. Close to the S.W. point are (or were) two or three groves of cocoa-
nut trees, planted by Captain Cook. From the S.W. point the land trends
N.E. i N., 4} miles, to the entrance of the lagoon, and from thence it trends
N. by W. i W. to the N.W. point, which bears N. by E., 12 miles, from the
S.W. point. In 1872 it was stated that the cocoa-nut trees had nearly all dis-
appeared. • i
Cook's party dug for fresh water without success in several parts of it, con-
sequently it was uninhabited, except by flocks of sea-birds. They also caught
abundance of fish. No turtle were seen by Captain Scott, September, 1840,
although Cook found an abundance.
In 1872 this island was visited by the U.S. ship Narragansetl, and in 1874
by the Portsmouth, Commander J. S. Skerrett. The best anchorage is stated
to be in 10 or 15 fathoms, sand, midway between Cook Island and Christmas
Island to the no; ihward, just off a breaking reef. This anchorage is smooth
when the trades ore blowing, but if the wind be southward of S.E., or north-
ward of N.E., a heavy swell sets round the points. Guano has been obtained
here by the American Guano Company. Very inferior water may be obtained
by digging.
In November, 1867, the lumber barque J. C. Fremont was wrecked in the
large bay on the East side of the island, and Capt. Hooper went to seek it in
the brig John DurAap and the schooner Dolphin, in 1858. He says : —
" On the S.W. point is a grove of cocoa-nut trees ; on the North side of the
bay and lagoon are two or three clusters, and one towards the S.E. point. The
most distant clusters cannot be seen the one from the other, as they are 25
miles apart. In the large S.E. bay, where so many wrecks occur, there in no
anchorage ; the water is very deep close to the shore, with a strong tide and
surf setting on it. The land is not over 10 ft. above the sea level in any part,
and cannot be seen from a ship's deck more than 8 to 10 miles off. Navigators
should, therefore, be cautious in approaching it.
" A singular circumstance noticed was that the fish, in the large lagoon near
which the camps were erected, were all dead, and in passing over the water in
a boat they could be seen at the bottom ; also on the lee shore of this lake the
fish were piled up in a state of preservation ; on being broken in two they were
"J if I
■; J
. '!
028 ISLANDS BETWEEN THE EQUATOR AND LAT. 10° N.
•8 sweet and wholeaome as possible. The water of this lake is extremely salt,
and stronger than any piokle ever used in curing fish or meat."
The large bight at the East end of the inland is very dangerous, and a vpsscl
getting into it at night will have a small ohanoe of getting out after discover-
ing the breakers.
Cook places the small islet in the entrance of the lagoon, now named Cook
Jalet, in lat. 1° 59' N., long. 157° 30* W., and Capt. Scott, H.M.S. Samarang,
1842, confirmed this position. Commander Skerrett places it in lat. 1" 67' 1 7" N.,
long. 157° 27' 46" W. It is high water, on full aud change, at 4** 23" ; springs
rise 3 ft. 2 in.*
FAHNIHO ISLAVD was discovered by Captain Edmund Fanning, in the
American ship Betty, in 1798. The next recorded account of it was by Capt.
Legoarant de Tromelin, who came here in the French corvette La Bayonnaiie,
in 1828, but his description does not at all accord with that of the discoverer ;
perhaps the coral island had increased in the interval. Prior to 1855 an
Englishman, Capt. Henry English, had established himself here with a few
white companions and about 150 natives of Humphries Island and other places,
to trade in the production of cocoa-nut oil. They placed themselves under
British protection, when Capt. W. H. Morshead, K.N., came here in H.M.S.
2>i(/o, on October 16, 1855. It was visited by Capt. Pearse, in H.M.S. Alert,
in 1861, and was accurately surveyed by Capt. O. U. Uichards, K.N., in H.M.S.
Hecate, in 1863.t
Fanning Island is of coral formation, of the lagoon type, and in shape a rude
oval, 9} miles long, N.W. and S.E. Towards the centre it is about 3^ miles
wide, but towards its south-eastern end 5^ miles; and its circumference is 27
miles. It is skirted by a small reef extending all round the island, but only to
the distance of half a cable from the beach, and against this the ocean swell
breaks, but seldom with any violence. Outside the reef there is no danger of
any kind. The belt of land, which forms the island has an average breadth of
half a mile, and only at one spot, near its North end, does it e:;ceed three-
quarters of a mile ; it is densely covered with cocoa-nut trees, which produce
* Sarah Anna Iiland, announced in the New York Ttibune, Mnrch, 1858, as lying in
lat. 4* 0' N., long. 154* 22' W., i« doubtful, as Vancouver passed near the position. It may
be the same as Maiden Island, nearly on the same meridian, but in 4* South.
t It is not improbable but that this may be the American Itlet, stated by Kotzebue to
have been diHcovered by Captain Mather, of the Amerieatt, in 1814, 28' more to the West,
and hIso the JFeeka Itland of whaler report, lat. 3° 47' N., long. 168° 37' W. It is singukr
that Capt. Hudson, of the U.S. Exploring veuel Peaeoek, should be satisfled that there is
no other island than Washington Island hereabouts. He states that he diligently sought
for eight days the positions whore five islands have been reported to exist, but no land was
seen. IVrhaps the strong and various currents hereabouts may have led to some coofusiun.
FANNING ISLAND.
929
fruit of the very finest description, but the regularity of the forest is occasion-
ally broken by gaps, leaving thick clusters of trees standing apart, with a low
corul space between. One very conspicuoLs gap is near the N.E. point of the
island, and the continuity of the belt of land is greatly broken there.
Ensrlilh Harbour. — The lagoon is spacious, but generally shallow and Aill of
coral heads. The entrance is near the centre of the S.W. side of the island,
M'here the channel is about 1^ cable wide, but not navigable* for large vessels
over half that width. Just outside the entrance, 2i cables, W. by S., from the
flagstaff on the South point, the depths vary from 24 to 40 ft., decreasing to
15 ft. and less towards the coral reef. The northern side of the entrance is the
shoalest, and the depth at three-quarters of a cable from the northern shore
does not exceed 15 ft., but at one- third to half a cable distance from the
southern shore the depth is 30 and 32 ft. Inside is a tolerably extensive basin
which affords safe anchorage, in 4^ to 5 fathoms, bottom of coral and sand,
with the flag-staff bearing S.W. ^ S., distant 1^ cable. This is English Har-
bour, which Capt. Morshead said would be an invaluable spot for a rendezvous.
The holding-ground is good, and there is sufficient room for several vessels,
when properly moored, to lie in perfect safety. Farther in the soundings de-
crease to 16 and 12 ft., and there are besides several shoal spots ; beyond these
there is again deep water. Vessels should only attempt to enter this harbour
at slack water.
It is high w ater, on full and change, at 6** ; springs rise 3 ft. The stream in
the harbour tuins at high and low water, and runs from 4 to 5 knots.
Whaleman Anchorage. — There is excellent anchorage for ships on the West
side of the island, towards the N.W. end, and 2 J miles north-westward of the
entrance to English Harbour ; it is called Whaleman Anchorage or Bay, but
has no title to the latter denomination. The depth of water is said to range
from 8 to about 15 fathoms at half a mile from the beach. Here ships of the
largest class have at times anchored to procure a supply of fresh water, which
is abundant adjacent to the anchorage.
The trade-winds blow steadily from the eastward almost all the year round,
and the island is seldom or never the scene of any boisterous weather. The
months of March and April are generally the worst.
The flag-staff at English Harbour is in lat. 3° 51' 26" N., long. lo9' 22' W. ;
Point Alert (the East extreme of the island, near which there is a gap in the
continuity of the cocoa-nut forest), in lat. 3° 52', long. 159° 16'; the North ex-
tremity of the island in lat. 3° 56^', and nearly on the meridian of the flag-
staff at English Harbour ; the South extremity in lat. 3° 48 J'.
The island is very fertile, and produces bananas, pumpkins, taro, figs, melons,
cabbages, radishef=, tomatoes, and numerous other garden vegetables, intro-
duced by the settlers. Every facility is afforded for procuring flre-wood and
water, as well as any fruit and vegetables in season, and the visits of whalers
North Pacific. 6 o
I k
■ :
|:l
930 ISLANDS BETWEEN TOE EQUATOR AND LAT. 10° N.
for this purpose are not infrequent. FiHh is abundant in the lagoon. The
gigantic land-crab ia found here.
Bound from Honolulu and the northward, make the island on the East side,
and sail round the South side. Ships must be careful in entering the harbour,
ns the coral reefs project farther seaward there than elsewhere ; but probably
a pilot can be procured.
WASHINGTON ISLAND was discovered by Capt. Fanning, the day after
he had discovered the island bearing his name to the S.E. It has also been
called New York Island on the charts, and is probably the Prospect Iiland
announced in 1858. According to Captain Wilkes, it is in lat. 4° 41' 35" N.,
long. 160° 15' 37" W., very nearly the position originally assigned. It was
surveyed by Commander Skerrett, U.S. ship Porttmouth. It is 3} miles long
by li mile broad, elevated about 10ft. above the sea, and is entirely covered
with cocua-nut and other trees, exhibiting a most luxuriant growth. There is
a reef off its eastern point, which extends for half a mile. At the western end
a coral ledge extends 2 miles in a N.W. by W. direction, on which the water
appears much discoloured, but the sea was not seen to break upon it, except
close to the point of the island. The surf is very heavy, and the island affords
no anchorage ; it is inhabited, but landing is dangerous. There is stated to be
a lake of brackish water on this island.
PALMTBA ISLAND was discovered, November 7, 1802, by an American
vessel of the name, during her passage from Juan Fernandez to Manila. Ac-
cording to the description of her commander, Capt. Sawle, it was uninhabited,
flat, and has a Ingoon in its centre, in which the tide regularly ebbs and flows,
running in and out at a rate of 6 or 7 knots. The Palmyra anchored on the
N.W. side of the island, in 20 fathoms, at three-quarters of a mile off shore.
Abundance of turtle were found, but no fresh water.
It was taken possession of by Capt. Zenas Bent, of Honolulu, for the Hawaiian
Government, in 1862, having been previously claimed for the American Quano
Company. Capt. Bent says the landing place is on the West end, and n vessel
can be in perfect safety in a depth of 3 fathoms. Some people were left on it
to cure biche-de-mer.
Palmyra Island was surveyed by Commander J. S. Skerrett, U.S. ship
Portsmouth, 1874. According to this survey, it consists of numerous small
islands, none rising over 6 ft. above the sea, and all covered with cocoa-nut
trees, lying round the edge of an extensive reef, 5f miles in extent East and
West, and 1} mile wide, though Capt. Sawle states that it is 14 miles long,
and about 7 miles wide, and Captain Bent 10 miles long, and 6 miles wide.
Breakers extend a mile from the N.E. and S.E. islets, llie lagoon within the
islands is nearly blocked up by reefs, its entrance at the western end being
only available for boats. On the North, East, and West sides the reefs are
PALMYRA ISLAND -SAM ARANO ISLES.
Q31
marked by breakers, but off the West end a bank of soundings extends 2]
miles to W. by N., the depths on it being uneven, and varying from 4 to 14
futhonu, coral bottcm.
It is dangerous to approach Palmyra Island from the northward or westward ;
the safest approach is from the southward. A vessel may stand safely in by
keeping Strawn Island, on which the huts are erected, bearing about N.E. | N.,
and run in until Bird Island, the S.E. islet, bears E. f N., when she may an-
chor in 7 fathoms, about 1} mile W. by S. ^ S. from Palm Point, the S.W.
islet. The water shoals rapidly from 30 fathoms. It is high water, on full
and change, at ft** 23" ; springs rise 2 ft. The observatiou spot, about 2 cables
N.E. of Palm Point, is in lat. 6" 49 4" N., long. 162" U' 29" W. Capt. Bent
placed the West end in lat. 5° 50 , long. 161" 53', but Cupt. Sawlo places it 30
miles to the westward.
A few people reside on Strawn Island, near the N.W. end of the group, en-
gaged in curing cocoa-nuts. Fish is abundant, but turtle is scarce ; curlew,
snipe, and plover were found. There is generally a sniiill pool of ruin-water on
one of the eastern islets. Rain is almost constantly falling.
Samarang^ Illet were discovered by Captain Scott, in H.M.S. Samarang,
September 15th, 1840, and the description of them exactly agrees with that of
Palmyra Island. The U.S. ship Portsmouth, 1874, spent two days in search-
ing for them, without finding them or any indications of shoal water, so that
Samarang Isles and Pulmyra Island are supposed to be identical, though there
is a difference of 54' of latitude between the recorded positions. According
to Capt. Scott, the West islet is in lat. 4" 55' 9', long. 162" 22' 20" W.
With the strong currents experienced by the Samarang in this neighbour-
hood, a more dangerous spot to those navigating these seas, unacquainted with
its existence, can scarcely esist than this group of coralline islets, with their
extensive reefs. Had it not providentially fallen culm during the night, the
Samarang must inevitably have been lost, us her course would have taken hur
directly on to the reef.*
* DouBTFDL Islands. — Maditon Island, from whulei' report, latitude 6° 30' M., lung.
169* 0' W., is probably Witshington Island.
Four Iikmdt, said to be in lit. 4* 32' N., long. 169* 32' W. Captain Stone, of the brig
Joiephitu, in quest of gunna islan Jg, sought for thia group, but was assured that uu islands
or dangers existed within 2d0 miles of the place.
Perhaps this last assertion may include Davit Iilund, said to have been found in 1858, in
lat. 6* 40' N., long. 170« 10' W.
An itland or shoal, in Int. 6* 36' to 6* 41' N., long. 166* 0' to 166* 18' W., has boon four
times announced by whalers. Captain Stone, ia the Josephine, ran near the first position at
mid-d.iy; g;ood obaenrations ; and although many birds were soon, among thumland birds,
yet no land was seen. To these may be adde 1 an island in 8° 40' N. and 168' 0' W., from
whaler report, which is probably Barber Island, if that exists. Commodore Sketrott, U.S.
ship rorUmouth, searched unsuccessrully lor all these iiliindg.
933 ISLANDS BETWEEN THE EQUATOR AND LAT. 10' N.
5' ■■.:
Kingman or Alio» Thomdikt Rttf. — Capt. Kingman, of the American (hip
Shooting Star, saw this shoal lying to the northward of Palmyra Island. It
is composed of coral and sand, and when the breakers on the N.E. part bear
KoMt, with a moderate breeae, a few small spots of coral con be seen above
water. The northern port runs K.S.K. and W.N.W., 13 miles. Shoal water
extends several miles to the southward. The position ascertained was 6° 27' N.,
long. 162° 12' W. llio ship Aliet Thorndike also saw it in 1859, placing it
in lat. 6° 24' N., long. 162^ 22'. Another authority places it in lat. 6" 3U' N.,
long. 162° 30'. The probable position is therefore 6" 27f N.. 162° 21' W. In
June, 1874, the British steam-ship Tartar struck on it.* Caldtw Reef, re-
ported to lie to the eastward, in lat. 6° 24', long. 161° 44', is also probably
identical with Kingman Reef.
In this locality reefs have been frequently reported, varying but little in
position in latitude but considerably in longitude, and it is probable thnt
different positions have been given to the same reef, and that the error tvo
been caused by incorrect reckoning and strong currents. Until this lor y
has been more thoroughly examined, great precaution should be taken iu is
navigation.
Maria or Crane Shoal was announced in 1863 by Captain Crane, of the
schooner Maria. She ran over a reef, the rocks of which were seen with about
4 fathoms over them; lat. 5° S3' N., long. 164° 0' W. They were searched for
in T«in by the U.S. ahip Portamouth.
BAKER I8LAKD is a low coral island of similar character to those around
it, but it had a large deposit of gunno on it, which has been worked by the
American Guano Company, and, therefore, it is better known.
It was seen by Capt. H. Foster, of the barque Jamaica, and has been many
times vaguely reported, as Phabe Island (see hereafter), or New Nantucket
Barber ItUnd is also placed ia lat. 6' 0' N., long. 177° 64' W., and in lat. 8> 4' X., long.
170' W.
Another Utand, which may be Barbary IiUnd, is said, from whaler report, to bo in lat.
8» N., long. 177" 20' W., or in lat 9' N., long. US' W.
Barbary Island, from a report in the New York Tribune, March, 1868, exists in lat.
3' 64' N., long. 173° 0' W., and it has also been placed 90 miles West of this position.
(Thin seems to be a peculiarly vague designvtion.)
Feur Rotki, from whaler report, in lat. 7* 61' N., long. 176<> 6' W. Another roek, in lat
7° 48' N., long. 173° 12' W. Probably do not exist.
Diana Shoal, reported by Captain Henry English, in lat 8* 40' N., long. 167* 20' W.,
hod only 6 ft. water over it. The Herald parsed over the site without seeing anything.
■ From whnlor reports in the China Mail, a $)uml lies in lat. 6* 36' N. and 160° C W. ;
another report 8!»ys lat 0° 30' N., long. 163° 30' W. The latter was searched for unsuo-
cussluUy by ibo U.S. ship PorUmouth, Those probably refor to the Kingman Reuf.
BAKER ISLAND.
998
Inland. Prvpn poiiitioni hare b«en auigned, varying tlightly from thkt given
by Capt. J. D. Hague, lat. 0^ 13' N., long. 176" 22' W. ; from obMnrationt
made on the U.S. ship Narrftgnnitti, rommander Mciidc, IH72, the centre of
the island was assumed to be in Int. 0" 13' 30 N., long. 17)1'' 2U 30' W.
The island is about 20 ft. high, and shows some signs of elevation ; the sur«
face is nearly level, and almost entirely devoid of vegetation, eicept patches
of grass here and there. Tlio outline is on irregular quadrilateral figure about
1 mile long. East and West, and three-quarters of a mile wide, North and
South ; it is surrounded by a reef 200 to 400 ft. wide, awash at high tide.
Fresh water is obtained by distilling sea-wuter.
Above the crown of the beach there is a sandy ridge which encircles the
guano deposit. This marginal ridge is about 100 ft. wide on the lee side of
the island, and is thore composed of fine sand and small fragments of coruls
and shells mixed with considerable guano. On the eastern or windward side
it is much wider, and formed of coarser fragments of ourals and shells which,
in their arrangement, present the appearance of successive beach formations.
Encircled by this ridge lies the guano deposit, which occupied the centre and
the greater nart of the island. None of the gross t'lat grows abundantly on
the margii ig found on the guano. In 1872 the guano was nearly worked out.
On the West side is a small open bay, in which is a boat entrance ; imme-
diately o] losite to which are the Company's buildings, and close to it (to the
northward) is the wharf. Outside of the reef the downward trend of tltc island
under water is so abrupt that an anchor will not grapple, but fulls awiiy
towards the bottom of the deep ocean. For this reason it was found necessary
to anchor large mooring-buoys outside the reef.
Mr. Charles Reeves, of the guano ship Loch-na-gar, gives the following re-
marks. — {Mercantile Marine Magazine, January, 1869.)
The wooden houses upon the island can be seen 14 miles from the mast-
head ; but if a ship should be at the buoy there, she can be seen long before
the island. On approaching, care should be taken not to be set to leeward
by the current, which constantly sets W.S.W., 2 knots an hour. If a ship
once gets to leeward, she may be weeks before she is able to beat up to the
island again.
As soon as the island is visible, the jack should be hoisted at the fore-royal
mast-head, and as a matter of precaution the royal taken it, to make certain of
the jack being seen. As soon as she is made out as bound to the island, tlie
American ensign will be hoisted from the signal-staff, if it is favourable for
coming to the buoy. But should the ensign not be hoisted by the time the
ship is close to the island, it is a sign that there is too much danger to come
to the buoy. Therefore be prepared to haul to the wind when they hoist
up " Stand to Sea," and carry all possible sail to hold your own against the
current.
But when the ensign is hoisted, get up your best lines to run to the buoy ;
11: i i!'
934 ISLANDS IJETWEEN THE EQUATOR AND LAT. 10° N.
they sometimes have lines at the island, but just as frequently as not they have
been carried away, and they have to depend upon yours. Steer for whichever
end of the island will give you the weather gnge, for you will have to lu9
^ound the lee side of the isluud to the buoy. The mooring-master comes on
board about 2 miles from the island and takes charge.
The easterly winds are frequently interrupted by squalls from the westward,
m«re especially from November to March.
As soon as dark clouds are observed gathering up to the westward, do not
hesitate a moment, but slip at once before the easterly wind fails. If you are
tempted to hang on, and the easterly wind fails, the ship swings round, and no
power can save her from destruction. The wreck-strewn shore bears melan-
choly evidence of this.
It frequently happens, during the winter months, that heavy surfs set in all
round the island. It would then be advisable for the ship to go to sea if there
is any wind to slip, for there is no communication with the shore except by
signal, and there is great risk of the ship being lost.
The winds during summer are from Enst to S.E., and blow steadily, but
from November to April they are generally from East to N.E., and are fre-
quently interrupted by westerly winds and bad weather. The Company has
discontinued loading vessels between the months of November and April.—
Commander Meade, U.S. sftip Narragannett, 1872.
HOWLAND or Holland Island was discovered by Capt. O. E. Netohcr,
in the Isabella, of Fairbaven, U.S., September 9th, 1842. It was afterwards
several times reported by whalers in 1851 and 1858, and in the latter year by
Oapt. Paty, of the schooner Liholiho. On January 16th, 1859, Capt. Eldridge,
of the American barque Amazon, announced it as a new discovery. Since that
period it bos been occupied by the American Guano Company. It will be
needless to quote the numerous positions assigned to it ; Commander Meade
places its centre in about lat. 0" 49' N., long. 176° 40' W.*
The following description is principally by Capt. J. D. Hague, who came
here in 1860, in search of guano. The island is about 2 miles long, N.N.W.
and S.S.E., by half a mile wide, containing, above the crown of the beach, an
area of some 400 acras. The highest point is about 20 ft. above the reef, and
10 or 12 ft. above the level of the high tide. Slightly brackish water is found
by digging a few feet. A mooring-buoy was placed off the West side of the
island, about 1^^ cable from the beach.
The general features of the island resemble those of Baker or Enderbury
Islands. Its surface, at least on the western side, is somewhat depressed, and
• Faguin Iflandi, reported by a whaler as in laf. ()• 40 X.,loiig. I71» 59' W., and another
island by the same authority, 35 miles to the southwiird, miiBt rufur tu lluwlund and Baker
l8lund«. The U.S. ship Narroj/anHtt passed over this position.
I t
'^^'"y"
THE GILBERT AR( HIPELAOO.
9.35
ills from thjB westward.
much of it is covered by a growth of purslain, grnss, and other vegetation, like
that on Baker Island, but considerably more abundant. Near the centre are
one or two thickets of leafless trees or brushwood, standing 8 or 10 ft. high,
and occupying an area of several acres ; the lower parta, near the roots, show
signs of life after every rain. The windward side of the island is formed by
a succession of ridges, composed of cc: al d6bri8 with some sand and shells,
running parallel to the eastern beach, each one of which may, at earlier stages
of the island's growth, have successively forire'I the weather shore. Occa-
sionally among those ridges a sandy bed is met with in which some little guano
is mixed. On the lee side there is also a sandy margin of confxderable width.
Bits of pumice and pieces of drift-wood ore sea' t. red all over the island's
surface.
The main deposit of guano occupied the middle part of the island, and
stretched, with some interruptions of intervening sand, nearly from the North
to the South end. Its surface was even, and in many places covered by a thick
growth of purslain. The deposit varied in depth from 6 inches to 4 feet.*
It is high water, on full and change, about T** 1 1" ; the rise is 8 ft. The
tides are regular, and of the semi-diurnal type.
THE GILBERT ARCHIPELAGO.
Of this group the island first discovered was the easternmost, Byron Island,
so named from the commander, who saw it June 3rd, 1765. The next were
the northern groups, discovered by the ships Scarborouffh and Charlotte, com-
manded by Captains Marshall and Gilbert. There is a loose account of this
discovery given in Governor Phillip's voyage, in 1788. The next authority in
order is a chart contained iu Dalrymple's collection, drawn by Roger Simpson
* DovBTFUL Islands. —The following annonncomenta of discovcnes hereabout, either
require confivmation oi do nc'. exist : —
New Market Itland, nccording to Mr. Consnl Pritchnrd, of Apia, lies in Int. 0" 22" N.,
lo'hg. 174° 40' W. This must refer to Buker Island. A re*/, by the same authority, lies
in l»t. 0° 21' N., long. 179° 20' W. A doubtful reef is placml 40 miles to the North of it
on the charts. These must aVen refer to Baker and Howland I«lan
j|;,;;i,ij|
>
■ 1 '
! f
t
i
1 ^I'^ii
(; ■"•
i
938
THE GILBERT ARCHIPELAGO.
persons per square mile, a density scarcely equalled in the world. Many
cruelties have been perpetrated ou these people by vessels engaged in " kid-
napping" labourers for sugar-plantations, &c.,and there is no doubt that many
of the reported outrages on merchant vessels have arisen from this cause.
In phyioal appearance this people are darker and coarser as a whole than
the more western inhabitants of Micronesia. They are also a larger race, some
of the chiefs being very corpulent, equalling in size the ancient chiefs of
Hawaii. This is also the more remarkable from thcsu islands being the most
barren of the atolls of Micronesia. The cocoa-nut and the pandanus, and a few
laboriously-cultivated taro, are the only vegetable productions, while the greater
number of the low islands of the Marshall and Caroline Archipelagoes produce
taro, bread-fruit, and jack-fruit in considerable abundance.
The usual height is about 5 feet 8 or 9 inches, but we saw many who were
considerably below this standard. There are none of those burly persons
among them which are so common in the Sandwich and Society Islands, and
we did not see one instance of obesity. — Mr. Hale.
The food of these people, besides the plants mentioned, consists of all kinds
of iiuh, from the whale to the sea-slug. Great numbers of fish are taken in
weirs ou th'j coral flats. Turtle are taken in the season on the beaches ; and
shell-fish, with tlie sea-slug or biche-de-mar, are obtained by diving. Whales
are said to have been formerly much more numerous than now. They then
sometimes got aground and were token, ^ow a carcase occasionally diifts on
shore.
There is not much to induce general trading vessels to come here; they pos-
sess but little in the way of refreshment, and there is neither wood nor water
in any quantity. They are only visited by small schooners in search of emi-
grants, and for cocoa-nut oil. They possess many good harbours, a rare advan-
tage in low coral islands.
Too much relianc:: should not be placed on the information received from
trading vessels as ".o anchorages in this group, as they frequently anchor close
to the reefs, and trust to the wind remaining in the same direction to keep them
off it.— H.M.S. EspUyle.
The Climate of these islands is equable, and though of high temperature it
is found to be less oppressive than in most tropical countries. For the most
part constant breezes prevail, and frecjuent rain falls, which moderates the
great heat, and at the same time confers fertility on the soil. From October
to April, the time of the Peacock^ s visit, is the winter, and is especially distin-
guished by the frequency of rains. Variable winds from the northward and
westward prevail at this season, and they have violent gales from the S.W. ;
these, according to Kirby (who was taken off the islands), are typhoon-like.
The natives plant stakes to prop up their houses, and tie them down, to prevent
them from being blown away. These storms last three or four days, veering
gradually round to the North. The Icewnrd sides of the islands receive most
ARITUAI.
930
damagr, nnd both land and trees are swept away. Kirby stated that, during
his residence, the lee side of Kuria had worn away. In these gales the trunks
of large trees are thrown on the West side of the island, together with large
lumps of resin, similar to that found on the soil at New Zealand, which the
natives use to scent their oils with. These trees, sometimes 2 ft. in diameter,
were thought to be of the pine species. Many stones arc found in their roots,
from 8 to 10 inches in diameter. These are a fine basalt, and the natives use
them for various purposes.
From May till September the weather is fine, with clear skies, and only
occasional showers ; and during this time the trade wind blows constantly from
the eastward, with intervals of calm. This is the season in which the natives
make their voyages ; they never venture abroad in the winter months, even
from island to island, being well aware of the danger of so doing.
Currents. — The Gilbert Archipelago lies near the northern limit of the South
Equatorial Current, which generally runs to the westward. Off Tamana it has
been experienced running 2 knots an hour to W.S>W. H.M.S. EspiegU found
that the current, which was westerly in the southern part of the group, began
to set to the northward and eastward North of Apamama, running to the east-
ward off the North point of Maraki at the rate of thre«-quarters of a mile an
hour.
Tides. — It is high water throughout the group, on full and change, at i** ;
springs rise about 6 ft.
Earthquakes are occasionally experienced in these islands. Kirby stated
that during the three years he was on Kuria, or Woodle Island, he had felt
ten or twelve, sufficiently severe to shake down a house. The natives exhibit
no fear on account of them. The direction of the oscillations seems to be from
the S.W.
The following account begins with the southernmost of the archipelago,
and proceeds northward. As the relative positions of the islands have not been
accurately determined, the pusitii/us here given must only be considered as
approximate.
ABXIBAI, Arore, or Hurd Island, is the southernmost of the group. It
was discovered in the Elizabeth, prior to 1810, and was then named Hope
Island. " But," says Mr. Purdy, " there being another Hope Island at about
14° distan t< the northward of the Equator, I have substituted Hurd Island
on the chart, from respect to Captain Hurd, of the Navy, hydrognipher to the
Admiralty."
The following account is taken principally from that cf M. Dutaillis. It is
low and well wooded, and perhaps may be seen at 10 miles off. Its length is
6 or 7 miles, and its breadth 1 or 1 i mile, but landing can only be effected on
the West side. Breakers extend 3 cables from the South point.
Hie sea breaks heavily on the shore to the East. At the North point of the
island there is a bank of sand, with some rocks interspersed, ou which there iit
I' i
m
THE GILBER" ARCHIPELAGO.
;il::;:-il5r
:;i !
but 3} fathoms. It is all the more dangerous because the sea docs not always
break on it. Its extent is about 4 miles, and its direction is determined by the
angles comprised between N.N.E. and E.N.E., of which the North point is the
summit. In a sketch by Capt. Peters, 1875, this bank is shown as extending
2 miles N.N.W. from the North point.
Off its West side whalers and small vessels have anchored off the reef in 25
fathoms, but so close that a shift of wind to the southward or westward renders
the position most dangerous.
The island has 2,000 to 2,500 inhabitants. They are completely naked.
Their canoes, foi-mcd from a vast number of pieces, are clinker built, and are
most graceful in form. Fish, poultry, cocoa-nuts. Sec, are easily procured in
exchange for tobacco. A missionary was stationed here in 1870.
According to M. Dutaillis, the South point is in lat. 2^ 40' 54" S., long.
177° 1' 13" E.; North point, lat. 2° 37' 24", long. 176° 66' 67". These results
are nearly identical with those assumed by Mr. Furdy, but later observations
place them 7' farther to tlie eastward.
NUKTTNAIJ, or Byron Island, was discovered by Commodore Byron, July
2, 1765. He describes it as a low, flat island, of a most delightful appearance,
and full of wood, among which the cocoa-nut was very conspicuous. He saw,
however, to his great regret, much foul ground about it, upon which the sea
broke with a dreadful surf. He sailed along the S.W. side.
It is of low coral formation, surrounded by a reef, and is 8 miles in length,
N.W. by N. and S.E. by S., and a quarter to IJ mil" in width. It is thickly
covered with cocoa-nut and pandanus trees, which can be seen 12 miles from
the deck. The island appears as three islands from a distance, in consequence
of the centre being low and sandy with a large clump of trees on it. There is
anchorage along the S.W. side, and in 14 fathoms, sand and coral, close under
the S.E. point, the bank being steep ; this anchorage is impracticable except
with a northerly or easterly wind. It is stated that there is no anchorage fit
for a large vessel. Landing is difficult except at high water. In 1872 the
population was about 5,000.
The S.E, point of Nukunau is placed by Commander Meade, U.S. ship
Narragansett, in lat. 1° 23' 42" S., long. 170'^ 34' 51" E.; later observations
place it 4' more to the eastward.
PERU, or Francis Island, is also called Peroat, Maria, and Eliza Island, on
former charts. It was discovered by Captain Clerk, of the ship John Palmer,
in 1827. It is 11 miles in length, N.W. by N. and S.E. by S., from one half
to li mile in width, 6 to 8 ft. in height, and thickly covered with cocoa-nut
and pandanus trees ; it is surrounded by the usual reef, and has an extensive
lagoon on the S.W. side, which can only be entered by boats at high water.
About the centre of the island the reef extends 2 J or 3 miles westward from
the land ; it also extends 2 miles off the N.W. point, and about half a mile ofl
the S.E. point. In 1872 the population was about 2,000. This island, ap
n
li^;
ONOATOA— TAMANA— TAPUTEOUEA.
m
ca docs not always
determined by the
North point is the
hown as extcndiuir
i off the reef in 25
r westward renders
completely naked,
iker built, and are
easily procured in
1870.
40' 54" 8., long.
i7". These results
later observations
odore Byron, July
ghtful appearance,
picuoua. He saw,
on which the sea
8 miles in length,
Ith. It is thickly
Jen 12 miles from
ce, in consequence
es on it. There is
coral, close under
practicable except
no anchorage fit
tor. In 1872 the
Meade, U.S. ship
later observations
i Eliza Island, on
hip John Palmer,
• S., from one half
d with cocoa-nut
has an extensive
ts at high water.
« westward from
)ut half a mile ofl
This island, ar
well as Byron Island, has a Samoan teacher belonging to the London Mission'
ary Society.
There is anchorage on the West side of this island, to the northward of the
most western point of the reef, in from 5 to 7 fathoms, about 1^ cable from the
reef, with the N.W. point of the island bearing N.W. by N. ^ N., and the
S.W. point E. by S. ^ S. The bank is very steep, and coming from the south-
ward care must be taken to avoid a shoal running out from the West point of
the reef. The South point of Peru is in lat. 1° 27' 30" S., long. 175° 59' E.
ONOATOA, Onnta, or Clerk Island, is described by the Rev. Mr. Bingham
as some 12 miles in length, having a lagoon bordered by a reef on the western
side, with a good boat channel near the centre. He says the Morning Star
anchored on the extreme western part of the reef, some 6 miles from the main
land, but they afterwards learned that there was good anchorage in a bay on
the N.W. side much nearer the land. This agrees with the description given
by Capt. Peters, in 1875. The natives are a tall fine-looking race ; the officers
of H.M.S. Barrosa found them very friendly, but they are often fighting
among themselves. They are stated to number about 3,000. A native teachei
was left here in 1870.
H.M.S. Emerald anchored in 16 fathoms, about 2 cables from the reef on
the N.W. side of the island, with Teumah Islet bearing N. by E. ^ E., distant
one-third of a mile, but found hardly room enough to swing. Boats can enter
the shallow lagoon. Teumah, at the N.W. extremity of Onoatoa, is in lat.
1<'53' S., long. 175° 30' E.
TAMANA, or Rotcher Island, is about 3 miles long and three-quarters of a
mile broad, having a fringing reef extending about half a mile from the North
and South extremes, and from the coast on the eastern side ; on the S.W. or
lee side there is deep wr.ter close to the shore, and there are no off-lying dan-
gers. The western shore forms a bight about half a mile deep, but there is no
anchorage. According to observations made on H.M.S. Emerald, the ap-
proximate position of its South extreme is lat. 2° 32' S., long. 175° 55' E.
The Kev. S. J. Whitmee states that the island is well supplied with cocoa-
nut palms and pandanus. Good water is procured in abundance by sinking
wells near the centre. There were three European traders here, and a teacher
was l&nded. — {Mercantile Marine Magazine, January, 1872, pp. 14 — 18.)
TAFXTTEOUEA, or Bishop or Drummond Island. — This extensive island,
or group of islets, had the second of the foregoing names applied to it by A dm.
Krusenstern, from the commander of the vessel, the Nautilus, who is presumed
to have discovered it. In the chart drawn up from that voyage, the only
island named is Drummond Island ; it is there shown as 26 miles long, the
whole length lined with rocks and reefs, outside of which the Nautilus anchored
in 18 fathoms. At 5 miles to the West of this reef is another, shown separately
on the chart under the name of the Nautilus Shoal, near which the vessel
wiw^"
vinced that no Sable Island exists.
ARANUKA— KUllIA— APAMAMA.
046
It was surveyed by the U.S. Exploring Expedition. It is 6^ miles long,
East and West, and 5} miles wide at the East end, diminishing to 2 miles at
the West end ; it is of coral formation, enclosing a lagoon. A rocky bank of
7 to 10 fathoms extends off the West and N.W. sides. There are two towns
on the West end, and several on the East and S.E. parts, and it is thickly in-
habited. The natives who came on board the Peacock said that the two ends
of the island were at war with each other. They are very much the same in
appearance as the natives of Drummond Island ; were naked, and spoke the
same dialect. This island affords neither wood, water, nor refreshments. From
appearances, its inhabitants (about 1,000) must be at times much stinted for
food. The South point is in lat. 0° 8' 30" N., long. 173° 32' 15" E.
KUBIA, or Woodle Island, was, with Hopper and Ilcndervillc Islands, one
of the first discoveries in the group, by Capts. Marshall and Gilbert. It was
surveyed by the U.S. Exploring Expedition. Its greatest length is 5 miles,
N.W. and S.E., and its greatest width, which is at its S.E. end, is 2^ miles.
The remainder is very narrow, and almost divided towards the centre. The
N.W. portion, named Oneaka, has two small lagoons, 200 or 300 yards from
the beach ; the water in them is not so salt as the ocean. In one of them the
bottom consists of red mud on one side, while it is white clay on the other.
They are used as fish-ponds by the chiefs. There is a reef extending to the
N.W., nearly 3 miles.
The island is but partially clothed with trees, consisting of cocoa-nut, pan-
danus, and a few stunted bread-fruit. It has no outer reef, and may be ap-
proached very closely, but it affords neither wood, water, nor refreshments.
The present population is about 1,500, not more than one- third of the estimate
of 1841. The Peacock took off an Irishman, John Kirby, a deserter from an
English whaler, who had not been roasted and eaten on his landing, but had
had the chiefs daughter given him as his wife. He had thus dwelt as one of
them from February 11, 1838, to April 15, 1841. He said that the natives,
though not professed cannibals, sometimes ate human flesh ; but their food is
generally fish.
APAMAMA, Roger Simpson, or Hopper Island, was one of the discoveries
of Capts. Marshall and Gilbert, in the Scarborough and Charlotte, as related
in the voyage of Governor Phillip, 1788. It wos not seen by Capt. Duperrey.
The latter commander believed it to be identical with the Dundas Island of
the brig Elizabeth, 1809. It must also be considered to be beyond doubt the
same as the Roger Simpson Island, discovered by Capt. Bishop in the Nautilut.
A survey was made of it in the U.S. ship Peacock, in 1841.
The islands, which are about 5 ft. above the surface of the ocean, lie on a
reef 10 miles long, N.W. and S.E., and 5 miles in width. The land is continuous
on the North and East sides, excepting two small strips of bare reef. There
is anchorage on the West side, in an opening between the reef and the N.W.
North Pacijic. 6 e
Twn
948
THE GILBERT ARCHIPELAGO.
point of the island, which is about 2 miles wide. Tlio soundings rnry from 3
to 6 fathoms ; across it, in some places, the bottom is broken coral, in others
coral sand. The entrance to the lagoon, although feasible, should not be
attempted through this passage ; but there is a good passage into it on the
South side of the island, which is a mile wide. It has a large population (about
6,000), but yields little more than will supply their wants. A small quantity
of fresh water may bo had by digging on the beaches ; wood and refreshments
are not procurable for shipping.
The chief, who also controls Kuria and Arnnuka Islands, resides on the
largest island, about 2J miles N.W. of its S.K. end, and there is also a German
trading-store here. Vessels can only trade with the natives by permission of
the king.
The southern passage into the lagoon may be readily recognised by Entrance
Island, which forms its eastern side. It is 3 cables wide, with an average
depth of 5^ fathoms, having some knolls of 8 ft. to 3} fathoms in it. Upon
the ebb tide the water is much discoloured. Northward of Entrance Island
the channel is contracted to 1 cable in width, and carries 3} fathoms, again
deepening and widening into the lagoon. It is high water, on full and change,
at 4" 30" ; springs rise 6 ft. The ebb runs 4 knots an hour. Vessels drawing
14 ft. go in with the assistance of native pilots. There is anchorage in 6
fathoms, with the centre of Entrance Islet bearing S.W. by W., half a mile
from the reef. The \\ \, ^nd of Entrance Islet is in lat. 0° 23' 3J" N., long.
173° 47' 45' E.
KAIAHA, or Hall hland. — The i.^ f of Hall has been applied to this
island both by Duperrey and by the American Expedition, though there is
great reason to believe that it was previously seen by the original discoverers
of the group, and then named Gilbert hland. The name, Hall Island, was
given by the commander of the brig Elhab<;t}i, in about 1809. If so, it ought
to be called Gilbert Island, and the other n>',mj has been dropped by Admiral
Krusenstern, who reasoned from the imperfect data then in existence.
Capt. Hudson gives the following account /rom his survey of it : —
It is of coral formation; the N.E. and S.E. parts are a continuous land,
whilst to the S.W. and N.W. it consists of a reef and bank, in some places
awash, with a sand- spit in its lagoon. The western sides of the island are,
therefore, very dangerous, and should be approached with caution, as the sea
seldom breaks on them, and the discolouration of the water is not at all times
to be observed. The population is about 4,000, but it affords neither refresh-
ment, wood, nor water. It is 9 miles in length, N.E. and S.W., and 6 miles
broad. On its West side, on some of the banks, there is anchorage in 10 to 15
fathoms. Its South end is in lat. O" 61' 30" N., long. 172° 55' 30" E. ; its North
end is in lat. 1° 2', long. 172° 56'.
There are two German stores here, one near the North end, and the othec.
TARAWA. H>
near the South end. Anchoring ground is reported about 1 mile 8,W. of the
North extremity.
TABAWA, Cookf or Kni^y Island.* — In this island there has been very
conHiderable confusion of names. Knoy Island was discovered in the Scar-
biirinKjh and Charlotte. A portion (probably) was named Marshall Island.
Ciipuin Duperrcy takes no notice of this name, but applies the name of
Gilbert Island to it. In the periodical publications of 1810 there appeared an
account of the situation of the islands seen by the brig Elizabeth. It was pre-
sumed to be in the year 1809, but oui chart says 1801. The extracts have
been preserved by Mr. Purdy, in his Tables. In that work there is an account
of the discovery of an iHlnnd, which was named Cook's Isle, the account of
which agrees perfectly with that of the South side of Knoy Island, now under
considcrati(m. There is no doubt of their identity. It may be assumed, then,
that Knoy, Cook, and M:;i'shall Island are meant for the same.
It was surveyed in 1841 by the U.S. Exploring Expedition. It is of coral
formation, 20 miles in length, N.W. and S.E. On its East and S.E. sides the
land is continuous and wooded, with the exception of four gaps, where the
reef is bare. The South side is 12 miles long, and trends nearly East and West.
On this part, near the West end, are three hummocks (which appear like
islands in the distance), and several small sand-banks, which are connected by
the same rp'>f. The island has its lagoon, but it has the appearance of beiiig
an extcnsi bay, in consequence of the reef on the West side being a sunken
one, on which is found 5 fathoms of water.
This island is partially wooded, having several groves of cocoa-nut trees on
it, and a dense undergrowth. Several towns were seen on it, and it appeared
to be thickly inhabited. It affords no supplies for vessels. The natives, about
8,000 in number, are entirely the same in appearance, in character, and cus-
toms, with the rest ; they go nuked, and speak the same dialect. They should
not be trusted. No supplies or water could be obtained here.
There is a German trading store 2 miles N.W. of the S.E. extremity, and
about 5 miles westward of it is a small sandy islet, with a few cocoa-nut and
pandanus trees on it, lying in the lagoon. Vessels entering bring this islet to
bear between East and E. by S. \ S. H.M.S. Rosario entered on the latter
bearing, and her ofRcers recommend that, to avoid the numerous shoals, a
vessel should steer to the southward, keeping close along the inside of the
South reef in not less than 6 fathoms. H.M.S. Blanche entered on an East
bearing, and the lagoon was tolerably clear of shoals as far as a line of saud-
bauks extending North and South from the sandy islet ; passing between two
of these shoals southward of the island in 4 fathoms, the Blanche anchored in
9 fathoms about 1 mile eastward of the islet, shut in by sand-banks in every
ind the othec.
* Knox Island in the American work, which is a pervorsion. It is Knoy Island In the
origiual.
048
THE GILBERT ARCHIPELAGO.
direction, H.M.S. Emerald anchored ine:de, off the S. W. idet ; trading vessels
anchor about 1^ mile westward of the trading store.
There is also fair anchorage at the North end of Tarawa, off a small islet on
the reef. The North extremity of Tarawa is in lat. 1° 39' N., long. 172° 64' 30" E.;
the S.E. end is in lat. 1° 22' 15", long. 173° 4' 30",
APAIAHO, Apia, or Charlotte Island. — The latter name was applied to
this collection of iilets by Adm. Erusenstem, from the idea that the term, The
Six Islands, was applied by their discoverer, Capt. Marshall, in the Charlotte.
In the original charts the names of these six i-slands were given as Marshall,
Allen, Gillesfy, Clerk, Smith, and Scarborough ; but they all lie in one reef,
BO must be taken as one. They were not seen by subsequent navigators, par-
ticularly by Duperrey, who would have cleared up the discrepancy. The U.S.
Expedition surveyed it in 1841, and the Narragansett visitod it in 1872.
It is a lagoon island, consisting of a string of coral islets, situated within
a reef, which is 6 or 7 ft. above the water. The reef has a bluff front, and is
much worn by the sea. Its length, in a N.W. and S.E. direction, is 16 miles,
and its average breadth 6 miles. On the East side the land is covered with
cocoa-nut and pandanus groves, with some undergrowth. The N.W. and
West side is a continuous reef, with many islets on it. There is no island in
the lagoon, as shown in the French chart of Duperrey. ILe population is
about 3,000, and there is a mission station here. Small quanties of fowls and
pigs can be obtained, and fish is plentiful. The water is brackish.
There are two ship channels and two boat passages into the lagoon, all on
the S.W. side. The N.W. passage is near the centre, about three-quarters of
a mile N.W. by N. from a thickly-wooded islet ; the channel is from 1 to 2
cables wide, with 2f to 5 fathoms. There is good anchorage outside this
channel in 6 to 8 fathoms, sandy bottom. This passage is used principally by
traders going out, as they have a fair wind through it. Bingham Passage is
the main ship channel, and is used by ail vessels entering the lagoon ; it is If
mile south-eastward of a small white sand-bank with a single tree i n it. It is
about 200 yards wide, with 2f to 5 fathoms water. The deepest part of the
channel is on the eastern side. There is good anchorage both outside and in-
side this passage, in 8 to 12 fathoms, sand and cori»l bottom. There arc
numerous coral patches between this passage and the mission station, off which
there is anchorage, but they are easily avoided.
There is a German trading store about 7 miles northward of the S.E. point.
The North point of this group is in lat. 1° 58' N., long. 172" 60' 30" E. ; the
S.E. point is in lat. 1° 44' 30", long. 172° 69'.
HABAKI, or Matthew Island, was also one of the original discoveries by
Capts. Marshall and Gilbert, in 1788. It is much smaller than cither Tarawa
or Apaiang, and is a lagoon island, of coral formation. It is but 5 miles long,
N. by E. and 8. by W., and 2^ miles wide at its base, being of a triangular
shape. It appeared to be densely peopled, for many villugcs were sccsi. Capt.
n .i
MARAKI— TARITARI— MAKIN.
949
Randall estimated tho populatiou at 2,000. Their dialect and customs were
the same as the rest of the group.
The principal village is on the West sidd, about H mile southward of the
North point, off which there is reported to be anchorage, but H.M.S. Etpiigle
could find none. There is a German trading store here. There is also reported
to be a boat passage into the lagoon, about 2 miles northward of the S.W. end.
•jfhe North end of Maraki is in lat. 2" 3' N., long. 173° 17' 30" E.
Of the discovery of Taritari and Makin Islands there appears to be no exact
record. They were not seen by Marshall and Gilbert, nor by Duperrey ; but
they were placed too far to the East on the chart. The name of Touching
Island h given to Taritari, the westernmost island, on Arrowsmith's chart.
They were examined by Capt. Hudson, of the U.S. Exploring ship Peacock.
TABITAAI, Luiaritari, or Touching Island, is somewhat of the figure of a
triangle, with its apex to the South, and its sides are above 14 miles in length.
The S.E. side is an almost continuous grove of cocoa-nut and pandanus, with
some undergrowth, and about 4 miles N.E. of the S.W. point is a German
trading store. On the two other sides is a reef, which is awash, excepting the
N.W. point, in which there is a small boat inlet. The population was about
1,500 in 1874 ; they appeared well disposed, civil, and more settled than on
any other of the group. The chief resides at Makin. There are several lakes
or lagoons of fresh water on the island.
The entrances to the lagoon lie close together, near the centre of the West
side. The northern one has a depth of 6 fathoms, but the southern entrance
is the best, being about 4 cables wide wiUi a least depth of 9 fathoms between
the reefs. There is a white house on a small island near the entrance. There
are numerous shoal patches iiisidd the lagoon, all easily avoided. The course
in is about N.E. until inside all the shoals, then bring a conspicuous large liut
to bear S.E. by S. f S., which will lead to the anchorage in 13 fathoms, which
is off a large village. H.M.S. Rosario found the bottom very uneven.
The S.W. point of Taritari is in lat. 3" 1' 30" N., long. 172^ 46' 15" E. ; the
North point is in lat. 3° 14', long. 172° 41'.
MAKIN, or Pitt Island, is of much smiillcr dimensions, being but 6 miles
long, N.N.E. and S.S.W., and from half a mile to 2 miles in width. Its N.E.
point lies in lat. 3° 20' 45 " N., long. 172° 58' 45 E. This small island is the
seat of government, and the natives now unite both names under the one of
Makin. When the Peacock approached, above twenty canoes came off, with
from five to ten natives in each ; in one of them was a white man, Robert
Wood or Grey, who had been left on the island by an English whaler, at his
own request, seven years before. Dr. Gulick estimated the population at 600.
There is no anchorage here.
Faanopa, L'anaba, or Ocean Island, in lat. 0° 52' S., long. 168° 24' 25" E.,
~'-'*-">W?tl-;,.,.;X«!V
TE
050
THE MARSHALL ARCHIPELAGO.
(Dutaillis), is considered as a part of the Gilbert Islands, but is described in
o\ir South Pacific Directory.
Nawodo, Onavero, or Pleasant Island, is also included in the Gilbert
Archipelago, but it is far to leeward. Capt. Cheyne places it in lat. 0° 25' S.,
long. 167° 5' £. It is also described in the South Pacific Directory.
i 1
Si '
m I
THE MARSHALL ARCHIPELAGO.
This extensive collection of islands lies between lat. 4° 30' N. and 12° 30' N.,
and is separated from the Gilbert Islands by a channel 160 miles broad. The
Rev. Dr. L. H. Gulick has devoted much attention to this group, as well as
to the other islands of Micronesia, and his nomenclature will be followed here-
after. The spelling of the native names is that adopted by the Micronesian
Mission — the system of Lepius. He considers that it is almost certain that
Alvaro de Saavedra visited both chains in 1529. More than two centuries
elapsed before they were again visited, as far as is known. Captain Wallis
visited what are now known as the Rongerik Islimds in 1767.
But the most important of the early voyages is that of 1781, by Captains
Marshall and Gilbert, of the English Navy, in the ships Scarborough and
Charlotte, bound from Port Jackson to China, which voyage originated in
the first colonization of Australia. As Captain Marshall was the principal
officer of the expedition, his name has been applied to the whole archipelago
by Elrusenstem and others ; that of Capt. Qilibert has been given to that to the
southward. There is considerable confusion in the original accounts. Captain
Gilbert having named some of the islands already named by Capt. Marshall ;
and Capt. Bishop, who ten years later discovered some of them, also named
them, which caused great difficulties in the nomenclature, which were not de-
creased by the great discrepancies between the respective longitudes given by
tliese officers.
Besides the discoveries of Capt. Marshall, there is another range of islands,
the Ralik chain, occupying the same extent of latitude, within 3 degrees to
the westward of them, discovered by various navigators proceeding to India.
In May, 1816, Kotzebue first saw the closely-connected groups of Taka and
Utirik, while on his way to the North. In January succeeding, after rec.uiting
nt the Sandwich Islands, he again visited this region, and discovered and
thoroughly explored the greater number of the llatak Islands. In October of
the same year he again returned directly from the North to these islands, and
added still another group to his discoveries, so leaving only Me three soutborii
atolls of the range une.xplored. In October, 1825, on his second \':)C'^c, Le
ngnin visited these islands, and added to his former explorations the four mtiit
northern groups of the Ratak Islands, the most eastern and western o** which
mxy be called discoveries, though he made most singular and coi-.iusing mis-
described in
the Gilbert
lat. 0° 25' S.,
ory.
Qdl2»30'N.,
1 broad. The
p, as well as
'ollowed here-
I Micronesian
: certain that
bwo centuries
iptuiu Wullis
by Captains
rborough and
originated in
the principal
3 archipelago
to that to the
unts, Captain
>t. Marshall ;
also named
were not de-
des given by
e of islands,
3 degrees to
ig to India,
of Taka and
«r rec.-uiting
icovered and
n October of
islands, and
ree southoru
V'.vq'c, he
ic four mi-it
rn o*" which
THE MARSHALL AECIHrELAGO.
961
takes in giving native names, mistakes never before noticed, and which long
perplexed Dr. Gulick.
In 1792 Capt. Bond discovered two of the Ealik Islands, and in 1797 Capt.
Dermott another. In 1804, the English ship Ocean, and again in 1809 the
brig Elizabeth, saw several of the middle Ratnk Islands. But of all others, the
most important nam( connected with the Marshall Islands is that of Kotzebuo,
of the Russian Navy.
After Kotzebue, Capt. Duperrey determined one group in 1824 ; since which
they have been visited by Capt. Hagemeister, in 1831 ; by Captains Chramt-
schcnkoand Schanz, of the Russian Navy, in 1829, 1832, and 1835; by the
U.S. Exploring Expedition, in 1840 ; and Capt. Cheyne, in 1845.
Several other visits to the different islands are also noticed by Dr. Gulick,
a most important event being the establishment of the Mission under Dr.
Pierson, in Kusaie, in 1855, which was subsequently removed to Ebon, where
it still remains under the charge of the Rev. Mr. Doane.
We are also much indebted for more accurate accounts of these islands to
the reports of Lieut. Fenn, H.M.S. Barrosa, 1872 ; Lieut. Tanner, U.S. ship
Narragansett, 1872; Commander Dupuis and Lieut. Browne, H.M.S. Rosario,
1874; Mr. J. Bray, master of the Missionary vessel Morning Star, 1880;
Capt. Maxwell and Lieut. Stocker, H.M.S. Herald, 1881; Capt. Bridge and
Lieut. Ommanney, H.M.S. Eipiegle, 1883 ; and of others, including those of
the German corvettes Ariadne, 1878, and Habicht, 1881. In the " Annalen
dov Hydrographie," 1881, Heft x., is a description of these islands by Captain
Jr.v...*; Witt.
Tnv .'lies or chains of islands, lying nearly parallel to each other, and run-
i> Ttj/j > \V. an'l S.E., are included under the name Marshall Islands. The more
eo"^ .n in the Ratak (the Radack of Kotzebue), and the western is the Balik.
Eacr ^ ..I numbers about fifteen low coralline groups of islands. Several of
these islands are very small, without lagoons; but the greater number ore fully-
furip jd atolls, and some of them are of an immense size.
". he population of the orchipelago does not, probably, number over about
T 0,000 : 6,000 perhaps in the Ratak chain, and probably 4,000 in the Ralik
Islands. And yet almost every one of their thirty atolls is inhabited ; from
which it may be gathered that the islands are but sparsely populated. Yet
intercourse with a very considerable portion of the inhabitants is secured by
KiVfng a permanent station, for they roam in their proas from island to island
' taoii respective ranges. There is comparatively little intercourse between
the two principal chains.
Nominally each range is subject to a high chief, or more properly to a chief
family. But several of the southern Ralik Islands are now independent of their
feudal head, who lives on Aurh. So, also, in the Ralik chain, the four northern
islands are held by a very slight cord of dependance.
The language of the two ranges is substantially the same, though there are
952
THE MARSHALL ARCHIPELAGO.
dialectic differences. And though the vocabulary of this language differs from
any spoken in the Caroline Archipelago, its grammatical construction bears the
most striking similarity to those westward.
In physical appearance the people are not unlike the Caroline islanders, as
described on Ponapi and Kusaie, save perhaps that they are a little coarser and
more vigorous in their manners, and perhaps also a little darker complexioned.
They seem more excitable and merciful than any of the Caroline islanders we
have met. It is sad to be obliged to report that disease has been rapidly
introduced among the Balik islanders by whale-ships passing the islands.
The only supv^i<:i which can be obtained at the islands are cocoa-nuts,
bread-fruit, &c., i. > 'ew fowls and pigs may be had at some of the larger
ones, where trading o s have been established. Water may sometimes be
obtained by digging weud, but it is usually brackish.
Winds. — The weather about the Marshall Islands is unsettled. In May and
June almost incessant rain and heavy squalls have been experienced, the wind
usually being a little to the northward of East in the latter month, during the
visit of H.M.S. EtpiigU. The prevailing wind from November to June is the
N.E. trade, but from July to October westerly winds, with unsettled weather,
may be expected. The Narragansett experienced variable winds during July
and August, the season of the doldrums, when much squally and rainy weather
may be expected.
The Currents among the reefs and islets are very irregular and uncertain.
Between about 4° and 8° N. the Equatorial counter c irrent, running to the
eastward, may be expected to be met with, running about 1 to 1^ knot.
The prevailing currents whiljt among the Marshall group were from the
eastward, about 1^ mile an hour, running occasionally, however, with equal
velocity in the opposite direction, caused apparently by the change of wind,
which was very variable, in September and October, with constant squalls and
rain. — Capt. Simpson, H.M.S. Blanche, 1872.
The BATAX CHAIN is the westernmost, and contains fifteen groups of
islands, in the following order, commencing from the South, viz. : — Mili,
Majuro, Arhno, Aurh, Maloelab, Erikub, Wotje, Likieb, Jemo, Ailuk, Mejit,
Taka, Utirik, Bikar, and Taongi. The last group, generally known as the
Smyth Isles, is so &r detached and uninhabited, that it will be described in
the next Chapter.
As the recent spelling of these native names differs so much from the previous
orthography, the older form will be given in parentheses.
MILI, (Milk J, or Mulgrave Islands, received their English name from their
discoverer, Capt. Marshall, in 1788. They were afterwards examined by Capt.
Duperrey and Capt. Chramtschenko, and by M. Dutaillis in 1848.
They appear to form a chain of atolls, together taking a sort of quadrilateral
figure, about 30 miles in extent, W.N.W. and E.S.E. The islands, almost all
MILI— PORT RHIN.
m
;uage differs from
truotion bears the
line islanders, as
little coarser and
er complexioned.
line islanders we
ms been rapidly
the islands,
are coco?t-nut8,
ime of the larger
ay sometimes be
id. In May and
enced, the wind
>nth, during the
r to June is the
lettled weather,
ads during July
d rainy weather
and uncertain,
running to the
H knot,
were from the
er, with equal
lange of wind,
int squalls and
een groups of
viz. :— Mili,
Ailuk, Mejit,
mown as the
described in
quadrilateral
ds, almost all
of which are connected with each other at low water, are sometimes separated
at high tides by the sea. Having been formed successively from coral, marine
productions, and the debris of vegetation, they have in the course of ages
acquired their great breadth. Here and there ore grouped some trees, among
which are the native houses, lliese smaller masses of verdure give to the
ohain the appearance uf small islands, on which cocoa-nut and bread-fruit
trees, &c., form clumps of beautiful verdure. The parts covered with trees,
being the largest, generally form the points around which the current runs
very strong.
In general, the whole chain is very steep-to on the outside, and only in-
creases on the side of the interior lagoon, where it is less disturbed by the sea,
and where the coral banks are still in course of formation. When they reach
the level of the water, they become, like the islands already formed, covered in
their turn by sand and some vegetables.
The space enclosed by these islands is a real sea, navigable for every de-
scription of vessels. The bottom, generally at the depth of 22 to 27 fathoms,
rises now and then nearer the surface, and shows in white patches, which thus
indicating the dangers, also point out the spots where the anchor may be
dropped. These banks, bestrewed with rocks, are nevertheless dangerous to
anchors and moorings, because they will break the one and chafe the other, of
which Capt. Dutaillis says he had sad experience. To take the best position,
attention ought to be paid to the rise of the tide. Its level has great influence
on the quality of the bottom, and it ought only to be chosen, if possible, at
low water.
Port Ehin, the ship passage into the lagoon, lies on the North side of the
reef, between Barr Island (pronounced as if three r's) and Tokoeoa Island, the
first to the East, and the other to the West, of the entrance. On Tokoeoa are
the stores of a German trading firm. The passage is about 2 cables broad,
and in proceeding for the anchorage steer along the western reefs, passing be-
tween them and a reef lying 2 cables to the eastward, then haul to the S.W.
and anchor as convenient in about 15 fathoms, mud and sand, 2 cables South
of Tokoeoa Reef, with the centre of Barr Island bearing N.W. ,
The Narragansett anchored in 15^ fathoms, with the West end of Barr Island
bearing N. by E. 4 E., and the S.W. end of Tokoeoa N.W. by W. i W.,
out of the tideway. The course in is about S.E. by S., the channel being
straight and clear until inside the islets, with from 10 to 20 fathoms of water ;
the tide is strong, but it runs nearly in the direction of the channel. Fresh
water, of a fair quality, can be procured from pits near the centre of Barr
Islet, and wood may be obtained in small quantities ; a few fowls and pigs can
be procured, and fish are plentiful, but many sorts are poisonous.
To reach the anchorage, with winds from the eastern quarter, take up such
a position as will allow you to range as near as possible to the pitch of the
North Pacific. 6 r
954
THE MARSHALL ARCHIPELAGO.
eastern reef, dnd round the bank attached to Barr Ifllaud as near as you please ;
it is shown by the whitish water. Pass southward of a rook lying 3 cables
S.E. by S. i S. from the observation spot on tb South end of Barr Island.
It is a small patch, over which the flood tide ruii8 with a velocity of IJ^ knot;
until half-tide it is indicated by very strong ripplings, and becomes nearly
awash at low water. Numerous shoal heads lie between this rock and the
fringe reef to the northward.
The 2i-fathoms patch shown on the chart, 5 cables S.E. i S. from the ob-
servation spot, was not seen from H.M. ships E»piitfle and Emerald; it is re-
ported to lie farther to the north-westward.
In general, it is better to enter or leave with the tide, unless indeed the
breeze is fair, and of sufficient force to overcome the strength of the current.
The less distance you are inside the anchorage, the less difficulty there will be
in getting out with westerly winds.
The observation spot on the South end of Barr Island is in lat. 6° 14' N., long.
171" 46' E., according to Capt. A. B6rard, of the French Navy. It is high
water, on full and change, at 5" ; springs rise 6^ ft.
There was another passage, but for boats only, between Anil Island and
Bouguenieu, the latter being the first islet to the West of Tokoeoa. The
distance between these two passes may be about 1^ mile.
There is a good pt. iage into the lagoon, in lat. 6° 15' N., long. 171° 49' E.,
and a good anchorage immediately inside the lagoon off a small village, used
by H.M.S. Barrosa.
Tapimoor Pass, about 8 miles eastward of Port Rhin, is bounded on the
West by Tapimoor Island. The Habicht entered by this pass, and steered
S.W. by S. for the anchorage off Mille Island.
There is a wide passage on the eastern side of the group to the lagoon.
Between this passage and the N.W. point of the group there are eight other
good passages for large ships. The best anchorage is at the S.E. end of the
lagoon, in 8 fathoms. — Mr. J, Bray.
Mille Island, the largest of the Mulgrave group, is situated at the S.W.
extreme, and is the residence of the chief, and the greater part of the popula-
tion ; all are Christians, a missionary living among them. In 1881, the popu-
lation of the group numbered about 700. The anchorage is off the East ex-
treme, in 16 fathoms, and there is good landing.
Between Mille Island and Port Rhin, there is no passage for even a boat
over the reef, and south-eastward from Mille Island are a few very low islands.
Lukunos Island, at the S.E. extreme of the group, has a wide passage on its
western side.
Knox Islands, four in number, extend 4 miles, North and South, and lie 6
miles, W.S.W., from Lukunos Island, with a deep channel between them and
the reef.
Keats Bank. — In 1872, Capt. Keats sounded in 13 to 5 fathoms, the bottom
ar OS you please ;
Ic lying 3 cables
of Barr Islund.
)city of H knot;
becomes nearly
lis rock and the
S. from the ob-
merald ; it is re-
nleas indeed the
I of the current,
iilty there will be
,t.6''14'N.,long.
avy. It is high
Anil Island and
f Tokoeoa. The
long. 171" 49' E.,
lall village, used
bounded on the
pass, and steered
ip to the lagoon.
; are eight other
S.E. end of the
ited at the S.W.
irt of the popula-
n 1881, the popu-
off the East ex-
^e for even a boat
>' very low islands,
le passage on its
South, and lie 6
etween them and
thorns, the bottom
MAJURO— AllUNO.
955
being distinctly seen, on a shoal in hit. 5*^ 55' N., long. 173° 38' E., about 85
miles eastward of Mulgrave Islamls.
MAJUBO or Arrowamith (Mcduro) Islands were discovered by Captains
Marshall and Gilbert, though their account and chart of them are not very
definite. Capt. Chramtschenko examined them in detail. Ilic group contains
thirty-three islands, some very small, situated on a reef about 30 miles in ex-
tent, W. by N. and E. by S., and 10 miles wide. It is of the usual coral
brmation, enclosing a lagoon ; the largest island, named Majuro, is 25 miles
long, and bounds the southern and western sides of the lagoon. It is a mag-
nificent island, with elegant forests of breud-fruit and pandunus. Cocoa-nuts,
of course, abound, and bananas seem to be plentiful. The inhabitants are
variously estimated between 1,500 and 3,000; they are constantly at war, the
northern islands against the southern. Cocoa-nuts, taro, and fowls can be ob-
tained. It is high water, on full and change, at 4** 45°*.
The entrance to the lagoon is on the North side, in about lat. 7° 1 2' N. ; it
is about 1^ mile wide, but a shoal coral bank divides it into two channels,
having a least depth of about 7 fathoms. The entrance is easily recognised by
the small round islet on its western side ; the West channel is close to this
islet. When entering, this is perhaps the easier channel to distinguish, but it
is further to leeward during easterly winds. A vessel making this channel
from the eastward should keep the small islet a little on the port bow, steer-
ing W. by S. until the passage is seen ; a S.S.W. course leads through it.
Having passed through, steer for a remarkable small sharp gap in the island
on the East side of the atoll, until the white buildings on Ejeet Island are seen,
when a course may be shaped for the anchorage.
A sailing vessel entering the East channel with an easterly wind, must luff
close round the reef off the island on the East side of the entrance ; when
through, steer for the before-mentioned sharp gap, bearing E. by S., until the
white buildings are seen.
The western portion of the lagoon is much encumbered with reefs, but the
eastern part is free from danger, with the exception of an off-lying reef near
the northern side. Inside there is an almost constant westerly current,
weakest near the northern side. There is no entrance to the lagoon from the
Enst side.
Ejeet Island is 9J miles from the entrance, and here is a trading station,
where there is a tank of rain-water. On the shoal IJ cable S. J W. from the
southern flagstaff is a beacon, on which a light is placed at night when a vessel
is known to be in the lagoon.
Good anchorage will be found in 25 fathoms, about 3 cables from the trading
station on Jeridy Island, at the East end of the lagoon. The centre of Jeridy
Island is in lat. 7" 4' N., long. 171° 24' 30" E.
ABHHO, Djuniel Islands, or Pedder Islands. — To the Enst of the fore-
going, Capts. Marshall and Gilbert discovered what they supposed to be two
006
THE MARSHALL ARCHIPELAGO.
m
groups, to which these names were applied, calling the broad and open chan-
nel separating them from Arrowsmith Island Fordyce Passage. The follow-
ing description is principally from the reports of Lieut. Tanner, U.S. ship
Narraffanaelt, and Mr. J. Bray, master of the Morning Star, 1 880.
Arhno has a greater extent of land than any other reef in the Ratak chain.
It is of singular shape, and has a vast extent of reef, measuring more than 100
miles in circumference, approaching the shape of a square, with narrow pro-
longations to the N.E. and North. It is of coral formation, the land being
from 100 to 600 yards in width, covered with iron-wood, cocoa-nut, pandanus,
and bread-fruit trees, the tops of the trees being visible about 18 miles from
the mast-head. In 1882 the population numbered about 3,000, the northern
islands being frequently at war against the southern.
•^ Extending about 4 miles N.N.W. from the N.W. point is a coral reef of 4
to 6 fathoms, ^ ere a vessel might anchor for the night in quiet weather.
There is a trading station about 2 miles N.W. of the S.E. point, with anchor-
age outside in 15 to 20 fathoms, i ^'' over 200 yards from the shore, but unsafe,
except with an easterly wind.
The enclosed lagoon is deep, and has few places with less than 22 fathoms.
The eastern side appears tolerably clear of dangers, but the West side is said
to be foul. The only entrances are on the North side, where there are four,
two ship and two boat channels.
he course in through the eastern passage is about S. by E., carrying about
4 fathoms over the reef, and passing eastward of High Island, the trees on
which arc much higher than those on the adjacent islets, and it is conspicuous
from all parts of the atoll. Dodo Passage is about 4 miles to the north-
westward ; the course in is about S.S.W., passing to the eastward of a small
wooded islet on the inner edge of the reef, a little to the right of mid-channel.
It is difficult to steer given courses in these passages, owing to the strong tides;
the eye is the only safe guide. Dodo Passage is wider and clearer than the
other ; it can be seen but a short distance, as the islets on either side and that
on the inner edge of the reef appear to be one. The two boat passages, be-
tween this and the eastern passage, are narrow.
H.M.S. Rosario, in 1874, entered by the East passage, finding 4} fathoms
least water. On leaving, a passage about 1 mile to the North was used, 6
fathoms being the least depth obtained, and traders report that this is the best
entrance to the lagoon.
A direct course from the eastern passage to the anchorage off the trading
station leads close westward of three small patches, about 4 miles within the
entrance; no other shoals were seen on this track. —H.M.S. Emerald, 1881.
The following positions were established by Commander Meade, U.S. ship
Narragansett-.—The N.E. point, lat. 7° 9' 17" N., long. 17P 56' 30" E. ; the
N.W. point, lat. 7^ 18' 47", long. 171° 38' 38"; the S.W. point, lat. 6° 59' 37",
AURH— MALOELAB.
957
long. 171« 31' 16'; and the S.E. point, lot. 6° 54' 2", long. 171" 44' 10", It
is high water, on I'uil and change, at 4** 45"*.
ATJBH, Ibbetion, or Traversey Islanda. — On Arrowsmith's chai't a group,
Ibbetson Islands, is marked, the same named by Kotsebue after the Marquis
de Traversey, ana by the natives Aurh.
This group is 16 miles long, N.W. by W. and S.E. by E., and 4 to 9 miles
broad, enclosing a deep lagoon. On the surrounding reef are thirty-two
islands, the N.W. of which is Pigen. The population is itumerous when com-
pared with the other isluuds, but scanty for its size ; it is about 1,000. Stobual
Island, at the N.E. end, has a very pleasant aspect. Kotzcbue placed his
anchorage in lat. 8° 18' 42", long. 171" 12' E. (by chronometer, 171" 8' 14"),
and procured great quantities of cocoa-nuts here. Aurh is at the S.E. end of
the atoll, and, as before mentioned, is the residence of the feudal chief of many
of the groups. The S.E. island is in lat. 8° 10', long. 171° 12'.
We entered through a passage about 200 yards wide, near the S.E. end of
the island, having 2^ fathoms least water. On leaving, we came out through
one of the five passages we found through the N.W. reef, four of which are
wide and deep. — Mr. J. Bray.
MALOELAB (Kaven), Calvert, Bass Reef-tied, or Araktcheeff Islands.—
This group was discovered on board the ships Scarborouffh and Charlotte, June
29, 1788, and were namod Calvert Islands, probably by Capt. Gilbert. The
Nautilus saw some islands, July 5, 1799, which were then named the Bass
Reef-tied Islands, which are identical with Calvert Islands. Capt. Kotzcbue
says their native name is Kaven (or Kawen), and he applies the name of
Araktcheeff (or Araksheef ) to them. Dr. Gulick calls them by the first name.
This group, consisting of sixty-four islands, was well surveyed by Kotzebue,
and is 33 miles long, N.W. and S.E., and 5 to 16 miles broad, enclosing a deep
and extensive lagoon, in which there is anchorage off some of the islands. Its
inhabitants, about 1,000 in number, arc precisely similar to those of Wotjc,
to the N.W. Kaven, or Araktcheeff, is the N.W. and largest island; it is 2 J
miles long, and three-quarters of a mile broad, and is in lat. 8° 51' N., long.
170" 49' E. The S.E. island is in Int. 8" 29' 30", long. 171° 1!'. It is high
water, on full and change, at 4** 35"> ; the greatest rice is 5 ft. Kotzebue found
very good water in pits on some of the islands, but provisions were not very
abundant.
Near the N.W. end is a passage half a mile wide, with three coral patches
in it. From the N.W. end to the S.W. end there are eight good passages,
several of which the Morning Star passed through. — Mr. J. Bruy.
Tjan is a well-cultivated island, and only useful trees, such as the cocoa-nut,
pandanus, and bread-fruit, are suffered, there. The anchorage off this island
is in Idt. 8° 52' 39", long. 171" 1' 31". Ofo/,off which there is anchorage in 8
fathoms, coral sand, is in lat. 8" 46', long. 171° 9' 42" (by chronometer). Torua,
which is twice as large as Tjan, is in lat. S'' 43' 10", long. 17P 9' 35", Theucj
1
1
! 1
1
i
1
f
i
958
THE MARSHALL ARCniPELAGO.
the atoll trends to the southward, ond finally fartlicr south-eastward (the
islands being generally small) to Airik, which is about the same size us Torua,
and affords a more beautiful proftpect than any of the other islands. There is
excellent anchorage, in 8 fathoms, about half a cable from the island, in lat.
8^31', long. 171" lOi'.
EBIKIJB (Egerup), or Biihop Junction Islands. — This is the southern of
two groups, which together were called Chatham Itlanda, from the voyage of
the Scarborough and Charlotte, probably by Captain Gilbert. The northern
group, Wotje, appears to have been considered aa a portion of it, and Captain
Marshall took them for the Barhadoea Islands, marked upon Anson's chart.
They were surveyed by Kotzcbue, who states tho native name to be Egeru]),
ond also gives the name of Tschitschayoff to them.
Erikub, or Egerup, lies to the southward of Wotje, and is somewhat smaller,
being 25 miles in length, N.W. and S.E., and 6 to 11 miles in breadth. The
whole circle consists of one reef, and contains comparatively few islands. Its
South point is an island, probably named Egerup, the only one seen with
cocoa-nut trees and people ; but these, it was said, were limited to one man
and two old women. Dr. Gulick says that it is uninhabited. A passage neur
this perhaps may be navigable, but is dangerous from its numerous turnings.
There appears but little inducement for visiting the group. The South point
is in about lat. 8° 56' N., long. 170» 6' E.
WOTJE (Otdia), or Romanzoff Islands, lie about 3 miles North of the pre-
ceding. The latter name is applied by Kotzebue, but the remarks relating
to their earlier discovery also belong to those of the Erikub group, as above
stated.
This group was minutely examined and surveyed by Kotzebue, in January,
1817. It is of an irregular oval form, 29 miles long. East and West, by 6 to
12 miles in breadth. It consists of the usual encircling reef, on which are
distributed sixty-five islands, of various magnitudes. Wotje ( Wotye), or Otdia,
is the easternmost and largest, about 2 miles long ; the anchoring place inside
it, which was called Christmas Harbour (or Port Noel), wos ascertained to be
in lat. 9° 28' 9" N., long. 170° 16' 5" E. As the low land here has no influence
on the atmosphere, the barometer falls and rises as uniformly as it generally
does between the tropics. The mean of the tidal observations gave for the
time of high water, on full and change, 2'' SO"" ; the greatest range was 7 ft.
The people were very friendly to Kotzebue, who remained here a considerable
time; Dr. Gulick estimated the total population at 300. To the S.S.W. of it
is an island, called by Kotzebue Egmedio, near to the S.E. angle of the reef;
to the South of it is a small high island.
The reef is quite continuous to the N.W. of Otdia, and on it stands a con-
nected chain of small islands, reaching as far as Ormed Island, at the North
part of the reef, 8 miles JGrom Otdia. The anchorage here is in lat. 9" 33' 16",
long. 170° 10' 68".
WOTJE— LIKIEB-JEMO.
959
uth-eastwnrd (the
amo size us Torua,
islands. There is
the island, in lat.
s the southern of
rom the voyage of
rt. The northern
of it, and Captain
}n Anson's chart,
ne to be Egerup;
somewhat smaller,
in breadth. The
few islands. Its
ly one seen with
nited to one man
A passage near
imerous turnings.
The South point
North of the pre-
i remarks relating
> group, as above
jbue, in January,
id West, by 6 to
ef, on which ore
Wotye), or Otdia,
Dring place inside
nscertoincd to be
has no influence
y as it generally
ons gave for the
range was 7 ft.
re a considerable
the S.S.W. of it
agle of the reef;
it stands a con-
«, at the North
in Iftt. 9" 33' 16",
From Ormed, the North side of the reef, also quite continuous, runs to
W.S.W., 8 miles, to Bird hland, and 9 miles still farther tc Qoat Island, from
whence to the West end of the reef is S mile»
There are several channels through the reef, all on the lee side. The first is
1^ mile S.E. of the West point, narrow and impracticable; the next is Rurick
Strait, 6 miles fiirther round the reef, by which Kotzebue entered. From
hence the reef continues, without islands, nearly 20 miles, to Schiachmareff
Strait, in every way preferable to Rurick Strait, as a ship can beat in or out
with the usual trade-wind. To the East of this again is Lagediak Strait, A
miles from the S.E. point of the group.
LIXIEB (Legiep), or Count Ileidm hlandt. — This group, ficitseen by Capt.
Kotzebue, November 5, 1817, and more closely examined in his second voyage,
perfectly resembles the others. There ore forty-four islands in the group,
which is 27 miles in length, N.W. by W. and S.E. by E., and from 7 to 12
miles wide. The natives are tall, handsome, robust men, advantageously dis-
tinguished from the other Radokers; they live chiefly on fish. Dr. Gulick
states the population to be 300. There are two entrances to the lagoon,
one on the South side, and the other on the West, which enable the lagoon to
be entered or left with the trade-wind. From this cause, and the appearance
of excellent anchorage, Kotzebue recommended this group to any navigator
wishing to put into Badak.
On the N.W. side are several large islands, well covered with cocoa-nut
trees. Likieh, the largest island, lies at the S.E. extreme, and belongs to a
European firm engaged in planting cocoa-nuts ; its S.E. end is in lat. 9° 48' N.,
long. 169° 21' E. It has a supply of good water.
The ship passage into the lagoon is South Pass, near the middle of the
southern reef. It is divided into two channels by a small island juHt inside the
lagoon ; vessels may use either channel, taking core not to pass too clote to
the eastern side of the island. On the West side there are two passages
northward of Kapenor Island, suitable for small craft only, both bein^ .b-
struoted by reefs. Anchorage may be obtained outside the lagoon, off H'-?-^..
The lagoon is tolerably clear of reefs in the northern part, but much ob-
structed by dangers in the S.E. portion. The anchorage off Likieb is in not
less than 9 fiidioms, good holding ground, and sheltered from winds from N.E.
and W.S.W. There is also good anchoroge, in 5 to 15 fathoms, westward of the
island next North of Likieb, on a gradually shelving bottom of sand and mud.
JEMO (Temo), or Steep-to Island, is a small island, seen in thn Nautilus, to
which the latter name was applied. Capt. Kotzebue says its native name is
Temo. It is a small uninhabited sandy island, three-quarters of a mile in ex-
tent, N.E. and S.W., the centre being in lat. 10° 6' N., long. 169° 42' B. It
may be approached on its western side to about half a mile distant, but a reef,
with breakers, extends 5 miles from the N.E. side, and from thence discoloured
water, with depths of 20 to 30 fathoms, extends to the S.W. part of Ailuk.
w
«'
960
THE MARSHALL ARCHIPELAOO.
■li!
8
||
4 ;
Si!
HI
il
MBJIT (Miadi), or New Year laland, was dioooTercd by Kotzobue, January
1, 1817. It is a low woody island, 3 miles long. North and South, and three>
quarters of a mile broad. This island is surrounded by reefs, extending 3^
miloa to the N.E., from 1 to 1^ mile on the North and West sides, and about
2 cables to the southwaiJ. I*, is clothed with a lovely verdure, and is in-
htoLitd by a similar race to those on the Kutusoff Islands, but they are said to
be not more than 60 in number. The position of the middle of the island is
lat. 10° 17' 80« N., long. 170» 66' E.
AILUK, Tindal and Watic, or Kruien^tern Itlandi. — Admiral Krusenstem
considers this [^roup tc be the sanie as that nnmed by Capt. Marshall, in 1788,
Tindall ard Wattn Island. Kotzebue supposed it to be a new discovery,
March 1, 1817, and applied the name of the great hydrographer to it. Its
native name is \ilu (or AiluU). Kotzebue surveyed it.
The group is 20 miles lor.g, N.N.W. and S.S.E., and 6 to 8 miles broad, and
has about 1 20 inhabitants. Kotzebue entered the lagoon by a deep but narrow
channel towards the North part. The eastern side of the group is formed by
a chain of islands, but the western side consists of a coral reef. Ailuk. or Aiht,
which gives its Uame to the whole, is at the S.E. end ; it is small, scarcely a
mile long, but has a pleasing appearance, and is distinguished from the rest
by its tall palm-trees. Good water cnn be obtained here. Its centre 's in lat.
10° 12' 30" N., long. 170" 4' E. Capeniur Island is the northernmost of the
group. Kotzebue's anchorage wos in lat. 10° 17" 25", long. 169° 69' 20". It
was high water, on full and cha.ige, at 4*^ 53"* ; the rise was 8 ft.
Near the northern part of the western reef there ere reported to be two
nivrow but clear passages into the lagoon at high water, and also a boat pas-
sage near the western part of the South reef. The anchorage in the lagoon is,
off Ailuk Island, in 12 fathoms, not nearer than 1^ mile to the island. The
anchorage in the northern part is better.
UTI&IK (Udiriok), Kutusoff or Button Islands. — On a chart inserted in
the voyage of Governor Phillip, two islands are marked as the Button Islands,
from the authoaty of Capt. Marshall, 1788. They were not inserted on any
other chart, and thus Kotzebue considered them as a fresh discovery, May 21,
1815, on his passiige to Kamchatka. This group and Taka, taken together,
have almost a North and South direction, and extend thus for 28 miles.
Eutuaoff, or Uiirik, at the S.E- end, was the only one inhabited. The island
first seen by Kotzebue had a beautiful grove of cocoa-nut trees. The people
came off, and were firiendly ; they were of a black colour, with straight black
hair. The island is now stated to be cultivated, but not permanently in-
habited. 7-4;; i"H'u I s
According to Kotzebue, the North point of the reef is in lat. 11" 29' N.,
long. 169° 54' B. Utirik Island is in lat. 11° 14' 30", long. 169° 57'.
TAXA (Tagai), or Souworoff, like the former group, consists of small
islands, connected by coral reefs, and seems to contain deep water in the
DIKAK— THE RALIK CHAIN.
901
oizebue, Jnnuarj
South, aud three<
fs, extending 3^
sides, and about
Tdure, and is in*
t they are said to
3 of the island is
iral Krusenstern
[arshall, in 1788,
new discovery,
ipher to it. Its
miles broad, and
deep but narrow
ip is formed by
Ailuk. or Ailu,
mall, scarcely a
id from the rest
centre 's in lat.
lernmost of the
69° 69' 20". It
ft.
irted to be two
Iso a boat pas-
n the lagoon is,
le island. The
lart inserted in
Button Islands,
nserted on any
overy. May 21,
taken together,
for 28 miles.
id. The island
The people
straight black
ermanently in*
lat. ir29'N.,
° '57'.
nsists of small
water in the
centre. Though it is thickly covered with tri'os, not a single palm-tree was to
be seen. Like Utirik, it is cultivated, but not permanently inhabited. The
channel separating tlie two groups is 3^ miles wide, free from rocks, and of
unfathomable depth. The latitude of the channel is 11° 12', long. 169° 51'.
BIKAR (Uigar), or Dawson Iiland, is tho r i-thernmost of the islands
hitherto considered as belonging to tho Ilatak chain. Its second name is de*
rived from Cupt. Marshall's chart. Uigar, from the statement of a niitivo to
Kotzebue, is triangular in shape, consisting, for the most part, of reefs, and
contains only three small islands, on the eastern reef, and all overgrown with
trees, but no cocoa-nut trees. Tliero is a trading station upon the southern
island, and a passage for small craft into the lagoon exists through the western
reefs, but is dangerous on account of the rapidity of the tidal streams. Tho
natives come here to catch turtle and sea-fowl. The southern island is in lat,
12° 14' N., long. 170° 15' E.
TaODgi, or Smyth, or Oaspar Rico Islands, tho S.W. ex' iino of which is
in lat. 14° 31' N., long. 1C9' 1' K., is nn uninhabited group, included by Dr.
Guliek among the Marshall Islands. But as it is so isolated to tlio northward,
it will bo described in the next Chapter.
Captain Moore, of the Morning Star, says : — The two chains, Eatak and
Ralik (meaning East and West), might be regarded somewhat in the light of
a large town, with alleys, streets, and avenues running through it, the in-
habitants passing ond repassing, engaged in like occupotions, seeking the same
amusements, and governed by tho same laws. A great uniformity of character
is observed.
That space of ocean comprehended between the two chains, and stretching
from the Bonham Islands, on the South, to the Eimski-Korsakoff (Rongcrik)
on the North, we will call the " lladak Sea." This sea, 300 miles long, and
100 miles broad, has been, as yet, but partially explored, and in which it is
supposed there exist dangers of a formidable character. How far this may bo
true of the southern portion I am unable to say ; but, having made a cautious
survey of the northern arm, I am prepared to believe that navigation is en-
dangered more by conflicting currents than by labyrinthine reefs. As may
be supposed, among so many islands, there is no regularity in the set of the
cm-rent.
The BALIK CHAIN runs parallel to the Ratak chain just described, and ex-
tends to the same parallel of latitude. The character of the separate groups com-
posing it appears to be the same, and the inhabitants of each are acquainted
with each other. There has been considerable confusion in the nomenclature ;
but with a view to including the earlier with the later decisions, the names as
formerly connected with each other will be given where they ditfer from Dr.
Culick's arrangement, which will be followed here.
l^orth Facific, 6 o
^'U..iiLlJ.UUIIH'.igelap-
as few inhabitants ;
mg, East and West,
f, and abounds with
slands; the eastern
islands are said to produce iron-wood. Knox Island, at its S.E. end, is in
lat. IPS' N.Jong. 166" 35' E.
BIKINI fUdia-MilaiJ, or Eschscholtz Islands, is the westernmost of these
groups, and was named by Kotzebue, in October, 1825, after the naturalist of
his expedition. He saw only the western part of the group, which he placed
in lat. 11° 40' N., long. 165" 24' 25" E. Capt. Chramtschenko also saw only
its western portion. " Next day we came up with an island, named by the
charts Eschscholtz Island. At noon, December 19th, 1858, we were close in-
shore, in lat. 11° 33' N., long. 165° 37' E. Could see twelve islands lying in
an East and West direction. We, being about the centre, stood for a channel
3 miles ii width between two islands. On getting near we could see the
bottom stretching across ; sent a boat to sound, found 1 1 fathoms, and sailed
over. We tacked and stood out, speaking a canoe on our way, with a chief
on board, who informed us that the name of the group was Bigini. We cleared
the western extremity at sunset, wliich is a circular reef. This part is very
dangerous, as all tho adjoining islets are small and very low, some of them
having only a few bushes. I noticed one peculiarity in this group ; tho bars
between the islands and shoals inside arc more sunken than any we have seen
heretofore, witli several deep channels into the lagoon. They are a very fine
race of people, if tlmsc in the canoe were a fair specimen."
Tho Noith side of this atoll, which is about 18 miles in extent. East and
West, is submerged to a considerable depth ; but at the South side there is
a wide passage through the reef, carrying from 11 to 12 fathoms water. The
islands are unproductive, and inhabited bj about 30 people.
WOTTHO, or Shanz Islands, a group of thirteen islands, were discovered
May 30, 1835, by Capt. Shanz (or Schantz), of the Russian Navy, in tho impe-
rial ship America, on her passage from I'ort Jackson to Kamchatka.* It con-
sists of a triangular reef with numprous small islands, enclosing a lagoon,
together extending 18 miles, N.N.W. and S.S.E., and from 4 to 12 miles
broad. The population amounted to about 40. The lagoon is accessible to
small vessels by a 4-fathoms pass on its West side, bctwec Onibelim and
Eirek Islands, in lat. 9^ 57'. Some rocks obstruct this pasv .ge, but they may
be avoided by keeping nearer to Ombeliin, the northern island. The northern
pass is full of rocks, and should bo avoided. The anchorage is off the S.W.
side of Wottho Island, the N.E. island of the group. The centre of Wottho
Island is in lat. 10° 11' N., long. 16G° 6" E. Mr. Milne, of the schooner
Jimatas, says the current runs strongly to the westward near these islands.
There was formerly considerable confusion in the hydrograj)liy of the groups
south-eastward of Wottho, arising out of the imperfect descriptions and vague
• Another announcement near this is Kahahala Inland, from whaler jcport, in lat.
10' 5' K., long. 166* 45' E. It is most likely the Bamo ;i3 Shanz Island. Anothor whiUer
ftunouncei a gri>up of islaiuh in lat. 9° 1' N., long. 161° 40' E.
964
THE MARSHALL ARCHIPELAGO.
i!
?;
■I
"t
il
1 1
:N
positions assigned by different discoverers. Later observations have, however,
cleared up these discrepancies, though it is somewhat difficult to reconcile the
yarions groups, as at present known, with the former very imperfect descrip-
tions.
TJJAE, or Catharine Inlands, the western of these gi'oups, is formed by an
extensive reef, 32 miles long, N.W. by N. and S.E. by S., and from 4 to 10
miles wide, enclosing a lagoon. They lie in the track of vessels between Aus-
tralia or New Zealand and China. Ujae and Enylameej, the southern and
northern islands, are considered to be the finest of the Marshall group, pro-
ducing everything that can be grown upon any of the other islands. The in-
habitants number about 300.
There are two ship passages on the West side into the lagoon ; that recom-
mended for entering is in about lat. 9=" N., formed by sunken reefs situated 4
miles northward of Bock Island ; this pass carries from !3 to 6 fathoms water,
with room to work through. The eastern side of the lagoon is moderately clear
cf shoals, but the West side is full of dangers. If bound for the anchorage off
Ujas, it is advisable to follow the eastern reef about 1 mile distant, and not to
approach Ujae under a depth of 5 fathoms. The pass South of Bock Island is
deep, and can be used when leaving. The West end of Ujae is in latitude
b" 48' N., long. 166^ 8 E., but observations by the officers of tlie U.S. ship
Essex, 1884, place it in long, 165" 41' 53" E. Tlie Serpent Group, seen by
Copt. Hammond, R.N., in ll.M.S. Serpent, in lat. 9^ 14' N., long. 166" 2' E.,
were probably the North end of Ujae.
LAE, or Brown hfands, is a discovery in the missionary ship Morning Star,
December, 1858. licr commander, Capt. J. W. Brown, thus describes it : —
•'Sunday morning, the 19th, was surprised at seeing land very near ahead, as
none is shown in my charts in that place. On coming up with it, found it to
be a group of fourteen islands', encircling three sides of a beautiful lagoon, the
western part being protected by a reef, with a small channel. A canoe camo
off, having two men on board. I gave them some presents, asked the name of
the group, which is Lai or Eiii, and left thi>'i little gem. The canoe brought
off some very fine bread-fruit and cocoa-nuts."
These islands lie close together upon a amvM reef about miles in diameter,
having a narrow passage into the lagoon from the westward, in which the
depth is 2 fathoms, but vessels can anchor off the entrance in 4 fathoms. Some
shoals lie about 1 cable S.W. of the anchorage. The inhabitants number about
250. Lac Island, at the S.E. eno:, is in lat. %" bT N., long. 16G= 27' E.
MENSCHIKOFF ISLANDS.— This group of islands, the South extreme of
which is in lat. 8" 42' N., long. 167" 47' E., encloses the largest lagoon in the
Marshall Archipelago, the AVest side extending 68 miles, N.W. | W. and
S.E. J E., its greatest breadth being 18 iiiiles. Notwithstanding its CYtent,
the inhabitants number only about 200. Except on Kwajalein at the South
extreme, and the islands situated on the N.E. of the Ailing-Jappel group, there
MENSCHIKOFF ISLANDS— LIB ISLA.ND— NAMU.
965
tions have, however,
cult to reconcile the
y imperfect descrip-
)8, is formed by an
, and from 4 to 10
essels between Aus-
j, the southern and
[arsliall group, pro-
ir islands. The in-
agoon ; that recom-
en reefs situated 4
o 6 fathoms water,
is moderately clear
)r the anchorage off
■■ distant, and not to
.\\ of Bock Island is
Ujae is in latitude
s of the U.S. ship
nt Group, seen by
., long. 166° 2' E.,
ship Morning Star,
us describes it : —
cry near ahead, as
with it, found it to
auliful lagoon, the
A canoe came
asked the name of
he canoe brought
miles in di.ameter,
rd, in which the
4 fathoms. Some
nts number about
66= 27' E.
South extreme of
ijest lagoon in the
iV.W. i VV. and
nding its extent,
^h\ at the South
ppel group, there
are few cocoa-nut trees upon these islands, and the natives visit them only for
curing fish. The islands on the N.W. side are almost destitute of trees. The
South end of Kwajalein Island is in lat. 8° 41' N., long. 167° 46i' E. The
West point of Ebadon, the N.W. island, is in lat. 9° 25' N., long. 167° ^' E.
This woidd appear to be the three groups of islands discovered by the
English ship Ocean, in 1804, the northern part being named Catharine, the
central part Lydui, and the southern part Margaretta, the latter being identical
with the Paterson Islands of the brig Elizabeth, in 1809. These islands also
exactly agree with the islands Kwadelen, Lileb, and Namou, on Kotzcbuc's
chart.
There arc twenty-five passages into the lagoon, but six only of these can be
considered as ship channels. The South pass, 4 miles N.W. of Kwajalein,
carries a depth of 10 fathoms. Upon the eastern side, the pass South of
Bigedj Island, in lat. 8° 52', has 7 fathoms ; upon the North side, the North
pass, eastward of Mellu Islands, has 10 fiithoms ; upon the West side, the
pass West of Eru Island, in lat. U" 10', carries 9 fathoms, and is considered a
good pass for leaving the lagoon ; the passage West of Onemak Island, in lat.
9° 8', carries 20 fathoms, and is the best when bound for Ailing-Jappel.
The northern part of the lagoon is shallower than the southern. Anchorage
can be obtained in it, off Kwajalein, in 15 to 7 fathoms; also westward of
Meek Island, but the water here shoal? suddenly. ietween Gagan and
Namtui-Eoj, at the N.E. end, anchorage may be taken up, but off Namtui
vessels should not anchor in less than 5 fathoms, and be prepared to leave by
the North pass in the event of fresh southerly winds, which render that an-
chorage unsafe. Outside the lagoon, anchorage will be found off Eru Island,
in 7 fathoms, also off Onemak in not less than 5 fathoms ; all other places are
too steep. It is high water, on full and change, at 4'' ; springs rise 5 J ft.
LIB ISLAND is '21 miles in extent. East and West, triangular in shape,
with reefs extending three-quarters of a mile from the South and East sides,
1 i mile from the North side, and about 2 cables from the West side. The
centre is of lower elevation than the coast-line ; the soil is fertile, and there are
about 50 inhabitants. There is no anchorage aro\md the island. Its centre is
in lat. 8° 19' N., long. 167° 28' E.
Lib is most probably the Tebut Island of Kotzebue's chart, and the Priu'
cessn Island of Captain Dennet, of the Britannia, in lat. 8° 20' N., long.
167° 30' E., which was also seen by Capt. Ilagemcistcr. It was seen by Capt.
Dunn, of the barque Dragon, in 1856, It was also seen by Capt. Moore, in
ihc Morning Star. He says : — "Going aloft, I perceived that wc were ap-
proaching a compact, small coral island, not more than 1 i mile in circum-
ference. We landed on the West side. There were 23 inh.ibitants, including
men, women, and children. It was covered with a thick growth of pandanus.
And a few low cocoa-nut trees."
NAMU, Ailinylabelub, or Musqulllo hlanda. — The latter name was given
•M;
w^^-c:^-
! I
\l : :i
r
lit
Mifi
966
THE MARSHALL ARCHIPELAGO.
liil
i .
by Cnptain Bond, who saw them the day after his making the Baring Islands,
December 16, 1792. They arc all well wooded, and inhabited, but are very
low and dangerous, and in thick weather a ship might run on the reef "ithout
seeing the land. Capt. Chramtschenko discovered that the group encloses two
lagoons, separated by a reef. At a short distance it might be taken for two
groups. Together they extend 36 miles, N.W. by W. and S.E. by E., the
greater number of islands being situated around the southern end. Bock
Island, on the western edge of the reef separating the lagoons, is in lat.
7° 59' N., long. 163° 11' E. There are about 150 inhabitants. The name of
Lambert was given to the northernmost portion, and lioss to the southern, by
Capt. Dennet, of the Britannia.
The largest island, named Musseket, lies on the N.E. side of the South la-
goon, the passage into that lagjon being upon the S.W. side, about 4 miles
westward of Leuen, the southern island ; there is anchorage southward of the
West point of this island. The islands Namu and Madaamet, at the N.W.
extreme, are sparsely covered with cocoa-nut trees. There is anchorage west-
ward of the former, which is in lat. 8" 11' N., long. 167° 58' E.
Great caution must be observed when passing to leeward of the reefs, in
consequence of the easterly set, and during May to September breakers are
rarely seen upon the reefs on the Ice side of the southern lagoon.
ODIA, or Elmore Islands. — This group was named by the Elizabeth, in her
passage from Port Jackson to China. The discoverer saw two small islands,
but Capt. Chramtschenko found that it consists of a large island and nearly
twenty smaller ones, named Odia by the natives. They are connected by coral
reefs, extending 28 miles, N.E. and S.W., and 15 miles in greatest breadth,
and are sometimes called Chramtschenh) Islands. On the charts by Kotzebuc
it is called Ilelul. There are about 200 inhabitants.
The lagoon, which contains many reefs, can be entered by five passages.
The South pass, in lat. 7° 14', is deep, and there is anchorage in it off a large
house, westward of Enyebing Island, in 5 fathoms. This is the best passage,
and in approaching from the westward it opens out when bearing N.E. by N.
A village stands on its East side. With winds from the eastward there is
anchorage outside the lagoon, in 10 to 12 fathoms, sheltered by Wotja Island,
the western island. Airek, the southern island, is in lat. 7° 12^' N., long.
168° 53' E., and there is anchorage off it in the lagoon.
JABWAT ISLAND is situated 9 miles, N. i W., from Jib Island, the
northernmost of Elmore Islands, from which it can be seen. It is tlirec-
quarters of a mile long, N.N.W. and S.S.E., by a quarter of a mile wide. It
is surrounded by reefs, extending a quarter of a mile from the South and West
sides, and three-quarters of a mile from the North and N.E. sides. There are
but few inhabitants. It is in lat. 7° 43' N., long. 169° 4i' E.
JALTJIT, or Bonham Islands. — The brig Elizabeth discovered, in 1809, "a
Tory extensive group of islands, joined together by low sand (coral ?) banks."
JALUIT— KILL
967
They were called G. Bonham'a Island, Capts. Duperrey and Chramtschenko
examined them ; the former called the northern portion Coquille Islands, and
the southern part Elizabeth Islands, from the ships which discovered them.
This group is 32 miles in extent, N.N.W. and S.S.E., and 7 to 20 miles in
width, consisting of four or five large islands and numerous smaller o: ".a, with
one in the enclosed lagoon. Mr. Bray states that Jaluit has become the most
important part of Micronesia. Upon the North point of Jabor, or Bonham
Island, is a large trading settlement, whence large quantities of coral, &c., are
shipped to Europe. This is a good place for a ship to recruit, as there is
plenty of good water, and pigs, fowls, bread-fruit, and cocoa-nuts may be ob-
tained from the natives, and occasionally ship's provisions from the traders.
The German Government has also established a coaling station here for men-
of-war. In 1882 the population of the group numbered about 700.
The lagoon appears to contain raoi-e coral shoals than the lagoons of the
other groups, necessitating very cautious navigation. There are four good
passages into it on the East side, and one on the West. The S.E. or Barrosa
Passage is the best, being short, and having 8 or 9 fathoms water, close round
the North end of Jabor Island. Sailing vessels go out by the S.W. passage,
bearing S.W. f W. from the anchorage off the trading station ; it is broad
and deep, but there is a sharp turn iu it, and a strong current. There are also
three good passages near each other, to the N.N.W. of the settlement.
When approaching this group from the southward, they appear as one long
low island, the gaps in the vegetation being difficult to distinguish. To enter
by the S.E. entrance, it is advisable to make the South extreme of the islands,
and to steer N.E. by N. along the reef, until the settlement is seen, bearing
W.S.W. The entrance will not be recognised until close in, the sea appa-
rently breaking right across it, and it is recommended to take a pilot. The
channel is less than half a cable in width, and the current sets across it in a
N. by W. direction, running with great strength near the time of spring tides.
On rounding the North end of Jabor Island, good anchorage will be found
off the settlement, in 8 to 19 fathoms, sandy bottom; that recommended is
with the trading station bearing N.E. by N. f N., distant 3 cables. There
are two dangerous patches of coral in the anchorage, one small patch of 3
fathoms nearly in the centre, and another awash at low water nearer the shore.
There is a beacon on the rock in the middle of the anchorage. The southern-
most of three piers is the most convenient for landing. The North end of
Jabor Island is in lat. 5° 55' N., long. 169° 39' E.
The North shoal in Jaluit anchorage is now marked by a small buoy ; tho
southern shoal has a small stick on it, and dries at low water springs ; both
shoals are easy to see. — H.M.S. Espiegle, 1883.
KILI {NamureckJ, or Hunter Island. — This island was first seen by Capt.
Dcnnet. It extends 2^ miles, E.S.E. and W.N.W., and is in lat. 6° 42' N.,
long. 169° 9' E. It is uninhabited, and landing is rarely practicable.
m
968
THE MARSHALL ARCHIPELAGO.
! ; I
: 1
HAMOBIE, or Daring Islands, were discovered by Captain Bond, in the
Soyal Admiral, December 15, 1792, and were named after the chairman of the
court of directors of the East India Company. They are two in number, lying
on a coral reef about 5 miles in diameter, and enclosing a lagoon only accessi-
ble to boats at high water. There is no anchorage here. The islands are fiat
and wooded, and contain about 300 inhabitants. There are two German
trading stations here, where cocoa-nuts, bread-fruit, bananas, and taro can be
obtained. The S.W. point is in lat. 5° 36' N., long. 168° 6' E.
EBOIT, Boston, or Covell Islands, — From information given by Captain
Duperrey, these islands were discovered May 25, 1 824, by nn American vessel,
under Captain George Ray, who called them Boston Islands. The name of
Covell (or Cowell) is from an American commander, of the barque Alliance,
who thought them a new discovery in 1831. They have been called Linnet
Islands by a whale ship, and it is also oalled the Fourteen Island Group. In
1845 a vessel was attacked outside the reef by three proas carrying 150 men,
and was nearly taken. They are the southernmost of the Ralik chain, and were
examined by Lieut. Tanner, U.S. ship Narragansett, in 1872.
The group consists of twenty-one well-wooded islands, lying on a reef about
25 miles in circumference, and is thickly inhabited by an able-bodied race of
men, who are of a light copper complexion, and about 1,200 in number.
Ebon Island, the southern and largest, is 6 miles long, and near its S.W. end
are the head-quarters of the Micronesiau mission. It is also stated to be the
chief station of the cocoa-nut oil trade. Trading vessels from Sydney, N.S.W.,
occasionally call here, and the mission schooner comes here annually from
Honolulu. The water is bad, and rain-water is collected for domestic purposes.
Wood, fowls, pigs, fish, cocoa-nuts, &c., are plentiful.
The only entrance to the lagoon is on the S.W. side, between the second
and third islets to the N.W. of the S.W. end of Ebon, the northern islet
being called Mej, and the southern Jurij ; as this is the only break in the
reef, the channel is not readily mistaken. This passage is narrow and crooked,
with strong tides running 3 to 7 knots on the ebb, making it unsafe for largo
vessels except at slack water ; the least depth is 9 fathoms, A stranger should
employ a pilot.
Having entered the lagoon the navigation is simple, occasional shoal patches
being easily avoided, with u bright sun. There is good anchorage in any part,
the depth varying from 5 to 28 fathoms. The Narragansett anchored in 15
fathoms, sand and coral, with the S.W. point of Ebon bearing S.W. by S.,
and the North end of Jurij N.W. i W. It is high water, on full and change,
at 4'' 45"" ; the rise is 6 feet.
The centre of the atoll is in lat. 4° 37' 26" N., long. 168° 43' 31" E. Mej
Islet is in lat. 4° 36' 34", long. 168° 41' 42". Eube, the S.W. end of Ebon
Island, is in lat. 4° 36' 26", long. 168^ 42' 10". ,
ENIWETOK— UJILONG.
9C9
ptnin Bond, in the
ho chairman of the
in number, lying
soon only accessi-
"he islands are flat
are two German
< and tare can be
E.
jiven by Captain
American vessel,
'• The name of
barque Alliance,
en called Linnez
land Group. In
irrying 150 men,
c chain, and were
f on a reef about
2-bodied race of
200 in number.
Jr its S.W. end
stated to be the
lydney, N.S.W.,
! annually from
nestio purposes.
een the second
northern islet
y break in the
w and crooked,
msafe for large
stranger should
1 shoal patches
?e in any part,
uchored in 15
r S.W. by S.,
iU and change,
31" E. Mej
end of Ebon
ENIWETOK, or Brown Group, was discovered by Capt. Thos. Butler, in
the ship Walpole, December 13, 1794. He named them Brown Range, after
the chief super-cargo at Canton, and also the North island Arthur Island, and
the southern Parry Island. They were more minutely examined by Captain
Fearn, in the snow Hunter, November 17, 1798, who named two other islands
East and West Danger Islands. He says : — Parry Island is not only the
southernmost of Brown's Range, but the eastern boundary of a most dangerous
and extensive line of keys or shoals, which occupy more than half a degree of
longitude, without a single apparent passage through which a stranger should
attempt to go. Capt. Fearn's positions are identical with Capt. Butler's, but
both are 28' too far East.
Dr. GuUck includes them in the Ralik chain of the Marshall Islands, although
so fur removed from them, and calls it by the first name. The few natives, only
30 or 40 in number, speak the Marshall Islands language.
They were surveyed, by Liitke, in November, 1827. He ran along the coral
reef forming its North and West sides for two days ; on the reef are about
thirty low islands uinl reefs, enclosing a lagoon. It is a nearly circular atoll,
20 miles in diameter North and South, and 26 miles East and West. Arthur
Island is in lat, IT 40' N., long. 162=' 15' E.; the West extreme of the atoll
in lat. 11° 30', long. 162° 1'; and Parry Island in lat. 11° 21', long. 162" 25'.
UJILONO, Arrecifoa, Casohos, or Providence Islands. — On the early Spanish
charts two groups, under the names of Arrecifos and Casobos or Cas lobas,
were shown hereabout ; but their existence was not verified till 1811, vhen
the ship Providence discovered a group, to which the name of the ship was
applied. Dr. Gulick. who calls the native name Ujilong, says that there is but
one reef here, so it must include the two older notices. He says the popula-
tion of Ujilong is 1,000. It was visited in 1864 by Captain James, in the
missionary ship Morning Star, who states that, although to the westward of
the Ralik chain, the natives speak the Marshall Islands dialect. It was also
visited by the Dundonald, Captain Kewley, in 1867; he speaks of the largo
quantity of cocoa-nuts.
This group, consisting of thirteen islands and several sand kays, extends 24
miles, E.S.E. and W.N.W., and 7 or 8 miles in breadth, the reef enclosing a
lagoon studded with coral patches. The islands are cultivated by a trading
firm, whose station is on Uyelang, the S.E. island. There ore two passages
into the lagoon, both on the South side. Hayes or Wide Pass, the western,
lies between two islets, and is the better ; it has 4 fathoms in it, and also a
shoal of 2^ fathoms. Anchorage may be obtained just inside, in 18 fathoms,
near the West islet, or 4 miles to the eastward, in 1 1 fathoms. The eastern
passage, 6^ miles to E.S.E., is narrow, and has only 2^ fathoms water in it.
There is no anchorage outside the lagoon. Vessels visiting the trading
Iforth Pacific. 6 H
i
,1
i
': 1
970
THE CAROLINE AUCIIIPELAGO.
station anchor in 9 to 10 fathoms, about 3 cables from the reef off the eastern
houses on Uyelang. The N.E. end of Uyelang is in lat. 9° 43' N., long.
161" 19' B.
THE CAROLINE ARCHIPELAGO.
This extensive range of islands was, until recent times, comparatively un-
known. This ignorance, and the terrible accounts of their dangerous character
given by various navigators who had crossed the chain, caused them to be the
subject of the greatest drfiad to all commanders sailing in their vicinity. All
these fears and doubts have, like most others of their kind, been dispelled by
the more exact knowledge which modern science gives of the actual character
of the subjects it is applied to. It is chiefly to the voyage of Capt. Duperrey,
in the French royal ship La Coquille, in 1823, and to the surveys of Rear-
Admiral Liitkc, of the Russian corvette La Seniavine, that we owe the greater
part of our geographical knowledge of these islands.
It has been thought that the first notice of any portion of these islands was
given by Diego dc Roche, a Portuguese, in 1525, as the Sequeira Isles, but it
is probable that his discovery was to the westward of the group. The same
may be said of the Reyes Islands, discovered by Alvaro de Saavcdra, in 1528.
The first whose claims have any weight are Villalobos and Miguel Lopez de
Legaspi ; the first in 1543, the second in 1565, but neither of their discoveries
can with certainty be recognised. Tue celebrated Sir Francis Drake also dis-
covered a portion of the range, September 30, 1579. The next in order is
Lorenzo de Baretto, who, in 1595, saw a large inhabited island in the group.
In 1686 the Spanish admiral, Don Francisco Lazeano, discovered a large
island, to which he gave the name of Carolina, in honour of the consort of the
reigning king, Charles II., but which island it is not now known. It gives the
name to the archipelago. The name of the Neiu Philippines has also been
applied, but that has long been in disuse.
Among the more complete early accounts of the Carolines is that by the
Jesuit padre, Juan Antonio Cantova, who visited several of the islands in 1721,
and during bis second voyage thither, in 1731, was killed at the Island Mogmog.
Several navigators have visited portions since that time, as related in the sub-
sequent particulars ; but, as stated in the first instance, the chief sources of
information are the works of LUtke and Duperrey.
The Caroline Islands, according to Krusenstern and Ltitke, extend from the
Pelew Islands on the West, to Ualan on the East, and from 2° to 12° North
latitude. But this distinction is somewhat arbitrary. The natives of the
Marshall Archipelago belong to the same race, so that the proposition of Dr.
Chamisso to include all these islands in the single denomination of the Marianas
is not without weight. But if it be necessary to adopt any divisions, it would
be necessary to distinguish that part of the Carolines extending from the Mort-
THE CAROLINE ARCHIPELAGO.
971
lock to the Ouluthy group, which nlone is inhabited by a nautical and com-
mercial people. Those more East or West do not participate in this distinction.
The information collected by the missionaries, and the charts drawn up by
them from native reports, were for nearly a century the only guides to navi-
gators. But they could neither determine their relative sizes nor positions ; so
that many islands scarcely visible on the surface of the ocean, having a name
as well as the larger groups, were placed as if miles in extent, and groups of
ten or fifteen would occupy the extent of several degrees ; this made the charts
an inextricable labyrinth. Then the commanders who crossed the line of the
archipelago in di£Pcrent directions, instead of meeting with entire archipelagoes,
were astonished to find either no indications of land, or else some small spot
to which they were delighted to apply some favourite name, which then took
their places in the chart, without superseding the older ones. The native
names also are frequently repeated, and disfigured both by the different pro-
nunciation in various parts of the group, and by different systems of ortho-
graphy. Such a chaos arose from all this, that any elucidation became a hope-
less task. Such was the state of their geography before the Coquille and
Siniavine cleared up all doubts, and declared their real character and number.
Among the later authors who have elucidated the geography of the archipe-
lago in a more complete manner, may be enumerated Capt. Cheyne, commander
of the Naiad, and the I?ev. Dr. L. II. Gulick, of the Hawaiian mission.
The Caroline Islands consist of forty-eight groups, forty-three of which are
coral atolls, and five of them are basaltic surrounded by fringing coral reefs.
These coral islands are immensely populous for their area. Capt. Liitke con-
sidered that the total length of these islands would not exceed 100 n\iles, and
as most of them do not exceed 200 yards in breadth, the entire areu of the
habitable portion of the atolls would not be more than 15 square miies. Dr.
Gulick estimates the area of the entire archipelago as 877 square miles, and
the number of people in 1860 as 18,000, but by the latest estimates of the
missionaries they are about double this. They are claimed as a Spanish posses-
sion, but it ii n erely nominal, and in August, 1885, the German gimboat litis
took possession of Yap, thus giving rise to a dispute with Spain.
The inhabitants of all these islands are scions from the same stock. Chamisso
considers them as the same as all the Malay tribes peopling eastern Polynesia.
The works of Chamisso, the notices of Dr. Mertens on the people, of Captain
Liitke, Kotzebue, and others, may be consulted with great interest on these
and similar points.*
Dr. Gulick says that many different dialects are spoken on its widely sepa-
rated islands, though they are evidently dialects of the same mother tongue,
* Among more recent publications we may mention the valiinblo work by Dr. A. Mosaon,
entitled " Los Folyn^iens, leur Originc, leura Migrations, leur Lungage," ptiblishod in
four large volames, Paris, 1880 — 1884, io wbich these questions ore thoroughly discussed.
i ;
I'y
'li
I
072
THE CAROLINE ARCHIPELA.aO.
nnd are strongly allied to the Marshall Islands dialect, and even to the language
spoken on the Qilbcrt Islands.
The character of the natives has been variously represented, and caution
should be exercised when holding intercourse with them, as several instances
of.treachery have been recorded. Of late years, intercourse with the mission-
aries and traders has made them more trustworthy.
Climate. — We have no general account of the winds nnd weather of the
whole archipelago, and from the fact that it lies in the belt of doldrums, or
equatorial calms, there is considerable difRculty in defining the conditions of
the weather in any particular season. Admiral Kruscnstern says : — But wc
learn from the relations of several navigators that the N.E. winds are not the
prevailing winds, which is confirmed by the fact that the inhabitants of several
of the western islands have been carried in their canoes towards the I'^ast and
N.E., a proof that during a portion of the year the winds blow from the West.
The Pelew Islands are, as is known, in the limits of the L^onsoons, which may
extend to the meridian of the Mariana Islands, and even some degrees beyond
that, up to the point where they are arrested by the regular trade winds.
This last part seems to be proved by the circumstance that the inhabitants of
the Carolines, who perform their annual voyages from Lamurek to Guahan,
situated several degrees to the East of that island, generally embark, from
what M. Chamisso states, in April, returning in May or June ; that is, they start
towards the termination of the eastern monsoon, probably that they may not
have long to wait for the return of the westerly monsoon, with which they re-
turn in May or June, when this monsoon is found to be in its greatest strength.
M. Chamisso draws a conclusion from this opposite to that which M. Krusen-
stem does. He says that the islanders return in May or June, before the
westerly winds set in ; however, it is known that the westerly monsoon never
comes later than the month of May.
The best account of the weather, &c., at Fonapi appeared in the American
Journal of Science, from the pen of Dr. Oulick. The following is extracted
from that account : — No island of the whole range, not even of Micronesia
(which includes the Gilbert, Marshall, Caroline, and Mariana Islands), has yet
been made a point for accurate meteorological observations, which will enhance
the value of records on Fonapi.
" The following meteorological averages, deduced by Mrs. QuHck from her
daily observations, extending through a period of three years, 1853—1855,
will speak for themselves of the more important topics connected with climate.
It is to be regretted that the want of necessary appliances has rendered these
observations much less extensive through the whole field of meteorology than
we would gladly have made them.
" Average for three years : Temperature. — Mean at sunrise, 78°.28 ; mean
nt noon, 83°.31; mean at sunset, 79°.27; maximum, 89°; minimum, 70°; range,
19°; mean, 80°.28.
THE CAROLINE AUCHIPELAOO.
Mi
to tlic language
od, and caution
iCTcral instances
ith the mission-
weather of the
of doldrums, or
ic conditions of
says : — But we
nds are not the
itiints of several
ds the East and
from the West.
)on8, which may
degrees beyond
lar trade winds,
e inhabitants of
rek to Guahan,
y embark, from
that is, they start
t they may not
a which they re-
reatest strength,
liich M. Kiusen-
June, be/ore the
' monsoon never
In the American
ing is extracted
n of Micronesia
Islands), has yet
ioh will enhance
!, 78<'.28; mean
lum, 70°; range.
" There ore few who will not remark the astonishing uniformity of tempera-
ture exhibited in the preceding summary. It ia to be questioned whether
there exists a scries of observations exhibiting as great a uniformity in any
part of our globe. The South Seas, generally notorious as they are for salu-
brious equability of temperature, have probably not yet presented anything
equal to this. ,
" The mean daily range is about 6".
«' The mean difference of successive days is about 1°.
" The utmost range of the thermometer, during three years, wns from 89°
to 70°, only 19".
" The mean temperature of the throe years was SC.SS.
" It should be remarked that the observations till May, 1853, were made in a
most peculiarly unfavourable locality, which greatly exaggerated and distorted
the thermometric conditions. The remaining observations were made from a
locality such as would always be sought for a residence, and will without the
slightest difficulty be found in every part of Ponapi. By these it appears that
the yearly mean is about 80°.d0 ; the utmost range about 12°; the mean at
7 a.m., about 78°; at noon, about 85°; and at 9 p.m., about 79°.50.
" Facts to be stated in connection with reriiarks on the winds and weather,
will sufficiently account for this singular equability, particularly when it is
remembered what an immense expanse of ocean surrounds all these Microne-
sian Islands."
Winds. — The following Table shows the distribution of the winds in the
different months of 1854: —
Months.
January . .
February
March , .
April , . . .
May , , . .
June . , . ,
tj
"gf
•g S
W
w if
•"•e
A
^1
SJ
1
29
2
28
23
S
29
1
29
2
22
8
Months.
July
August,. .,
September
October . .
November
December
-6
•S.S
•ss
'^■^
s-e
W2
Q 3
11
U
7
24
11
16
6
10
16
16
29
1
P
3
14
The predominating winds are the N.E. trades. During the northern winter,
u'hile the sun is in southern declination, and while, consequently, the whole
system of aerial currents is drawn to the South, the island is fully exposed to
their action. This period usually lasts from December to May, inclusive ;
11
r
11
I !
I :8
iil
'l!
*!
.*'i -li
111!
074
THE CAROLINE ARCHIPELAGO.
though there is much difference in different seasons. At times the trades do
not set in till January, and again they begin to blow steadily as early as No-
vember, and they cease blowing at any period from April till June. There are
certain seasons when they arc but faint, even during the dead of winter, as in
January and February, 1856 ; and, again, they may continually intrude them-
selves during all the summer, as in 1 856.
CuBRSNTS. — During the period when the N.E. trade is freshest, strong
westerly currents are generally experienced. From the middle of August to
the middle of November, when strong westerly winds, with heavy squalls, mny
be expected, strong easterly currents prevail.
On the subject of currents, they have been found very violent to the South
of the Pelcw I^ilands, bearing to the East, at the rate of 2 or 3 miles an hour,
particularly in the months of June, July, and August, that is, during the
strength of the S.W. monsoon. In the memoir on the currents, mention is
made of this current, as the equatorial counter current.
Gai.es. — It may be remarked that the severer class of gales are compara-
tively unknown here. The typhoons of the China i^ca, and even of the sens
North of the Marianas, about the Bonin Islands, rarely (if ever) extend to this
island. Yet once, during the youth of a few of the very oldest inhabitants
now living, a desolating wind swept over the island, so tearing up the bread-
fruit trees — the principal reliance for food — that an awful famine ensued, and
large numbers died. It would seem possible that this was a cyclone. And it
is very interesting that a similar gale produced similar results at Kusaie, or
Strong Island, 5 degrees East of Fonapi, and that, too, in the memory of the
very oldest inhabitants. May not this have been the very same erratic cyclone
that swept Ponapi ?
Weather. — Without being able to give accurate hydrometric figures, the
observations recorded regarding the general character of the days exhibit the
fact that there is much humidity, though nothing excessive. Situated just on
the southern confines of the N.E. trades, and under the northern edge of the
cloud zone that hovers over the equatorial regions between the two trade wind
Kones of the North and South hemispheres, the island is constantly exposed to
precipitations from above. Before the trade winds reach the island, they have
made their passage over thousands of miles of ocean, and have become saturated
with moisture ; so that, an soon as they impinge on the central elevations of
the island, some of which are 2,858 ft. in height, the clouds are arrested, and
showers fall ; and, as the island is but little more than 15 miles in diameter,
they readily pass over them and water the lee no less than the windward slopes.
And again, during the summer, while the trades have receded northwards, we
nre, ever and anon, shaded by the equatorial clouds, which pour their contents
most bounteously : yet wc are constantly so near the northern boundary of
this zone, that we do not experience its severer, its protracted, and unpleasant
pouring raius of weeks and months. The humidity is consequently more equa*
KUSAIE.
075
trades do
ly 08 No-
There arc
inter, as in
rudo them-
est, strong
August to
quails, mny
the South
ca an hour,
during the
mention is
e compara-
of the sens
tend to this
inhabitants
) the bread-
msucd, and
ne. And it
Kusaic, or
nory of the
iitic cyelone
figures, the
exhibit the
ated just on
edge of the
) trade wind
J exposed to
], they have
nc saturated
levations of
nested, and
n diameter,
nord slopes,
thwards, we
eir contents
boundary of
I unpleasant
more equa-
bly distributed through the year than in most tropieol regions ; yet wo speak
of the summer as the season most rainy, if not as the " rainy season." It must
be remarked, however, that the year, 1856, during which the trades were very
faint thi >ugh all their usual months, and were quite intrusive through all the
months during which they usually absent themselves, was the driest remem-
bered by the oldest inhabitants.
Of the electric phenomena, I can only report that thunder is rare and light-
ning still rarer. Thunder was heard only on twenty-eight days in three years,
nnd lightning only seen on eight days. 6o very seldom does lightning prove
destructive, that the natives have never suspected its agency, but attributed
its results to a direct visitation from their Ani or Spirits, the only gods they
reverence.
During the months of June and July, 1872, while amongst the Caroline
group, light and variable winds, with much rain, were experienced by H.M.S.
Blanche ; the current was also variable, but set generally to the eastward.
The orthoyraphy here adopted is that given by Dr. Guliek, as based upon
the system of Lcpius, established by his mission. As may be well understood,
tliere is much confusion in the early names, each voyager spelling the difficult
ative pronunciation in his own national method.
The dc8cri])tion of the archipelago begins with the easternmost, and proceeds
in a westerly direction. Great vigilance is necessary in navigating among
these groups, as there has been no connected survey, nnd some are very im-
perfectly known. The positions here given must therefore only be considered
as approximate.
KUSAIE, Ualan, or Strony Island, the easternmost, and one of the lofty
basaltic peaks of the Caroline Islands, was discovered, in 1804, by Captain
Crozer, commanding an American ship, who gave it the name Strong, after the
governor of Massachusetts. Capt. Duperrey sought for and found it in June,
1824, proving that Copt. Crozer's position was very exact, lie passed ten
days here, nnd made a minute survey of it. " The Island of Oualan," says
Captain Duperrey, " may at some future time become of great importance.
Lying in the ti-ack of vessels going from Australia to China, it offers at the
same time good ports for careenage, abundance of water, and refreshments of
different sorts."* The island was also visited by Capt. D'Urville and by Capt.
Liitke, the latter giving the following account of it : — Ualan is 24 miles in cir-
cumference, and is of volcanic formation. A break between two masses of
mountains, which extend across the island from West to East, divides it into
two unequal parts, the southern portion being more than double the extent of
the northern. On this northern portion is Mount Biiache, so named by
Duperrey, which is 1,914 ft. according to Duperrey, or 2,160 ft. according to
• Voyage de la Coquille ; et Observations sur I'llo de Oualan ou Strong, pur M. Lesson,
m^decin, &c. ; Journal de Voyages, Mai, 1825.
i
iiMiiwi* MiiwTfcBKnmiirfMrTif n
' li;
!
t
I
I »
:h
i
t
976
THE CAROLINE ARCHIPELAGO.
Liitke, above the sea level. From its rounded summit it falls gradually on nil
sides. Oil the southern portion, Mount Crozer, 2,152 ft. high, was named after
the discoverer of the island. Its crest extends N.W. and S.E. ; the North
flank is very steep and rugged at its summit. In general this portion of the
island has many peaks, both isolated and coupled in the form of asses' ears.
One of thqse peaks, more remarkable for its regularly conical summit, and by
its position in front of Coquille Harbour, was named Mericm Monumenl by
Liitke, after his lamented naturalist.
The northern part of the island is surrounded by a coral reef, which, open-
ing before the break between the mountains, forms a port on each side of the
island ; that to the West is Coquille Harbom-, which liutke used ; that to the
East is what the islanders call Nitimolchon, and Capt. Duperrey Lele* from
the nr.me of the small island lying in its centre. The southern part is sur-
rounded by a chain of coral islets, connected by reefs, and forming on the side
towards the island a shallow lagoon, through which this part of the island may
be traversed. The chain is broken tjwards the southern part of the island,
forming a small port, named by the French. Port Lottin.
The shore, sheltered by the roof from the violence of the waves, is s\irrounded
by a broad belt of mangroves and other shrubs, forming a thick wall of ver-
dure, which at first pleoses by its singularity, but its monotony soon fatigues
the sight. This belt also, hiding the real shore, renders it difficult to determine
the exact limits of the island, and also by its nature renders it constaotly liable
to change.
In general the whole island, from the sea to the mountain tops, with the ex-
ception of the highest and most peaked summits of Mount Crozcr, is covered
with a thick and almost impassable forest. In the neighbourhood of the houses
this wood consists of bread-fruit, cocoa-nut, bananns, and other fruit trees. The
break or valley between the two ports is the only part by which you can pass
fi'om one side to the other. The distance is only 2^ miles, but the road is un-
pleasant from the marshy pools, especially after rain.
Rivulets and water-coiu^es are met with nt every step. Their number, and
the richness of the vegetation, attest the humidity of the climate, unusual in
these latitudes. It did not, however, ajipear to be unhealthy. The villages
are chiefly placed along the beaches, but arc not much seen from seaward, as
they are hidden by the coral islets and mangroves. They are all surrounded
with stone walls, separating the properties. The number of inhabitants in the
fifty small villages enumerated by Liitke amounted to 409 men and 301 women.
They were saturated with disease, introduced by the whalers, and are rapidly
on the decrease. Dr. Gulick gives the same numbers as the total population, but
in 1882 the inhabitants were said to be only 300 in number. They arc described
as gentle, amiable, and intelligent.
• " The natives do not pronounce it Lele, but Ltllft," — liitke.
■ J
KUSAIE— MACKAW REEF.
977
gradually on all
ivfts named after
.E. ; the North
portion of tho
I of asses' ears,
summit, and by
s Monnmenl by
ef, which, open-
each eide of the
sed ; that to the
rey Lelc* from
cvn part is sur-
ining on the side
if the island mav
ft of the island,
•
land slopes gradually from the summit to the shore. On the South side is au
isolated and very distinct mass of basalt, which, seen from East to West, ex-
actly resembles o lighthouse or a sentry box.
From what could be judged of the principal geological formation of the
island, it is, like all the other islands of this sea, of basalt. It is entirely
covered with verdure ; but it seems less thickly so than Ualan. To leeward,
that is, on the South and West sides, mangroves and other shrubs grow in the
water, forming an imj)cnctrablc border.
There arc but very few habitations seen near the sea-shore ; the greater part
are hidden by the trees, but the smoke rising in numerous j)oints, and the large
clumps of cocoa-nut trees, attest the numerous population. The number of
people is estimated at 5,000, and they are described as particularly pleasant
ond good-looking. There is an American mission station here.
The whole isb f' is thickly wooded, and produces many varieties of good
timber. The shores are fronted with mangrove trees, which form an impene-
trable barrier to boats, except in the rivers, and other small channels among
them. Many of these are so narrow as scarcely to admit of oara being used ;
the houses near the shore have generally one of these channels leading to
them.
The Rev. Dr. L. H. Gulick has given an interesting Paper on the climate
nnd productions of Ponapi in the .\merican Journal of Science. In a former
page wc have made some extracts from this as regards the climate. The fol-
following is a description of the group.
Monte Santo, in about lat. C^ 53' N., is 2,861 ft. high. Several other points
approach it in elevation. A somewhat continuous range of hills extends from
Uu, of the Wanckn district, westward to Palckn, of the Jekoits district, the
general line of the range being that of a curve, convex southward. The eastern
third, or perhaps half, is narro^v and almost equally precipitous on the northern
nnd southern aspects, presenting in jnany places, as in Uu, perpendicular faces
of rock of great height, which show strong columnar tendencies. The middle
third of the range slopes very gradually on the southern aspect, where the
mountains maintain a comparatively regular descent from their summits to the
0.
rnl reef. Dcsidcs tho
Jund the island, while
resembling tho ordi-
named by Liitkc, in
dmiral Soniavine, is
from which tho lond
Zavaltchinc, named
1,000 ft. in heiglit,
other directions tlio
the South side is an
East to A\'cst, ev-
il formation of the
salt. It is entirely
"lun. To Icewnrd,
shrubs grow in tho
e ; the greater part
oints, and the lam-e
The number of
rticularly pleasant
re.
varieties of good
form an impcne-
I channels anion "
oars being used ;
"uiels leading to
r on the climate
-<-'• In a former
imate. The fol-
eral other i>oint8
'Is extends from
'its district, tlic
ird. The eastern
on the northern
lendicular faces
8- Tho middle
cct, where the
summits to the
PONAPI.
081
ocean shore, a distance of 5 or G miles. Several long narrow valleys r\\\\ up
these slopes, along the sides and at the heads of which arc many faces of
coiumnnr rock, over which leap the most romantic cascades. Again, the
western portion of tho range is narrow and precipitous.
A number of detached hills and short ranges still further diversify the scene,
more particularly the following. Midway between Mctalanien Harbour and
Ani Point, there rises a very high hill, of perhaps 1,000 ft., which sends west-
ward a low prolongation connecting it with the main central range. Again,
on the North of the island, in the Nut district, there rises a similar mountain,
but barely connected with even the mainland. At this place the most perfect
basaltic columns are found. The central ridge of Nut is but a prismatic mass,
ond about its base lie scattered columns of great length, also detached piles of
agglutinated columns arc found. This must have been, I think, at least one
of the spots wlicncc the materials for the Metalanien " Ruins " were taken.
Uy tho course of tho main range and the positions of the subsidiary hills,
two broad and long valleys are formed. One of them may be called the Meta-
lanien, the other the Nut valley. Each of them may be 4 to d miles in width,
and G to 8 miles in length.
There arc several solitary projections of rock in the Metalanien and Kiti dis-
trict. One, much resembling a sugar-loaf in shape, in the Metalanien valley
at the head of that harbour, is called Takain. Its height may be 400 ft., and
its circumference at tho base three-quarters of a mile. Its eastern aspects are
perpendicular, its western not so steep but that by adhering with hands and
feet it may be ascended. Adherent to the base of the main rock, yet separated
from it above, is ii much .smaller rock. Within a (piarter of a mile of Takain
rises a dome-shaped hill, of almost tho same elevation, but not so precipitous.
At the head of Panian Harbour a needle-shaped rock elevates itself from the
top of a slight ridge. It may be 10 or 12 rods at the base, and perhaps loO
feet high above the top of the ridge. On Liitke's chart it bears Iho name of
Mount Gut'ri/e ; on the French chart Jioic. In the West end of the island is
another needle rock, much like Mount (tut'rite.
A ntnuber of very active streams pour through the valleys on tho southern
side of the island. The largest is probably that emptying at the base of
'J'akain. (Jn tho North of the central range there are no streams, save one or
two draining the Nut valley. These streams, during the course of ages, nmst
have eftected great things. I (jucstion whether any bodies of water in tho
world are more active than these. During freshets, which occur with aluio>t
every heavy shower, they arc deeply iicrlurbcd by the black and red earths
with which they arc lad .'u. These alluvial substanees are dej)osited along tho
shores, forming in many places immense flats, over which the tide ebbs and
flows. It is only on tho iSouth side of the island, from Mctalanien Harbour to
Point Kittlitz, that these marshes arc of any considerable extent, for on this side
alone are the principal streams, and these S.W. shores arc protected from ihc
iSii
982
THE CAROLINE ARCHIPELAGO.
I!
roughened occnn, acted upon by the N.E. trades. The island at the mouth of
the Nut valley is but one of the olluvial marshes.
The insulated basaltic points about the main island of Ponapi are very in-
teresting features of the group. Mutok (or Tenedos, as named by Liitko), is in
reality an island, being only attached to the main land by an extensive alluvial
marsh. It is a sort of double hill, rising very precipitously on its eastern aspect
150 or 200 ft. Jekoits Island is an irregular triangle, each side being perhaps
1 i mile in extent. Along the eastern border, running North and South, is a
high ridge, 800 or 1,000 ft. in height, exceedingly precipitous. The north-
western part of the island is elevated from 150 to perhaps 250 or 300 ft., and
along its northern and western shores presents very precipitous ascents. The
columnar tendency may be seen in most of the ledges of this island, though
perfect prisms arc rare. Lutiffur and Poitilc are but points of columnar basalt,
about 100 ft. in height, with a talus about their bases, their circumference at
the water's edge being, perhaps, half a mile, /'arum is about 1^ mile in length,
and in one place half a mile in width, with a central ridge that may be at points
300 ft. in height.
The Manlapeti, or Munts, rise very abruptly from the water's edge. The
smaller of the two is a sort of dome, though presenting in many places faces of
perpendicular basalt. About its eastern shore are considerable hillocks of coarse
conglomerate. The larger Mant is but the crest of a ridge of prismatic rock
that along its whole western aspect presents a very precipitous face, and may
be in one place 300 ft. high. Tapak is but a repetition of the same, of less
elevation. Takain rises with much of the usual perpendicularity to the height
of perhaps 300 ft. The mass of its hill is of a reddish rock ; and in certain
spots a red earth is found which makes an admirable paint for native canoes ;
a substance that is also found in almost every part of the main island. Muto-
kaloj is about 50 ft. in height, and is very small. Only on the margins of this
islet have I succei;ded in finding anything approaching to cellular lava. Taman
Island has a general level of about 75 ft., and descends quite steeply to the
water on nearly every side. Near it, to the South, are several very small and
low basaltic islets.
It need scarcely be remarked that the general surface of all the basnitio
members of the Ponapi group is very rugged. Rocks and stones arc scattered
over almost the entire surface in the greatest profusion ; and but few plains,
even of a few acres in extent, are to be anywhere seen. Tlie leeward slopes in
the Kill district present a few spots that may be termed level. Basaltic speci-
mens may be found on almost every square rod of the island, but on certain
spots they seem to be adventitious rather than native. In such spots the earth
is a reddish clay, imder which will usually be found what seems to bo a de-
composed rock with frequent seams of red earth. Beneath the whole we strike
upon the substratum of basalt, in compact masses.
Surrounding the whole body of basaltic elevations ia a beautiful coral reef,
^ I
•J t
PONAPI.
m
land at the mouth of
Ponapi ore very in-
mcd by Liitko), is in
an extensive alluvial
r on its eastern aspect
h aide being perhaps
orth and South, is a
pitous. The north-
s 250 or 300 ft., and
pitous ascents. The
this island, though
) of columnar basalt,
iir circumference at
mt 1^ mile in length,
that may be at points
water's edge. The
many places faces of
ble hillocks of coarse
e of prismatic rock
itous face, and may
jf the snmc, of less
ularity to the height
•ock; and in certain
t for native canoes ;
nain island. Muio-
I the margins of this
ellular lava. Taman
uitc steeply to the
reral very small and
of all the basaltic
stones arc scattered
md but few plains,
le leeward slopes in
vel. Basaltic speci-
md, but on certain
luch spots the earth
it seems to bo a de-
the whole we strike
beautiful coral reef,
•^
distant from the coast of the main island the average distance of perhaps 2
miler.. There are no less than seven considerable intervals in the continuity of
thin reef , forming as many harbours, several of which are really excellent. Be-
tween the reef and the shore of the island are all the usual coral patches that
give such wondrous variety to tropical waters. On the outer reef are a number
of islets in every respect similar to those on the purely coralline groups. They
are found from the mouth of Metalanien Harbour, along the southern line, as
far as I'oint Kittlitz, but not on the North of Ponapi. These islets have a
nearly uniform elevation of about 2 ft. above high-water mark. I gather from
my own observations, and from the reports of the pilots, that soundings are
found outside of the reef, nearly if not quite round the island, at distances
varying from a quarter to half a mile from the reef.
Of its harbours Capt. Liitke has given us no account, as before stated. lie
sent Lieut. Zavalichinc, January 3, 1828, to examine one, at the South end of
the island, in an opening of the reef, and leading towards what is marked on
his charts as Mounts Tenedos (Mutok) and La Guirite (the sentry box), before
alluded to.
Eiti, or Rono Kiti Harbour. — Capt. Cheyne first described this harbour in
1848. It is the one most resorted to by American whalers. Its entrance is in
lat. 6° 48' N., long. 158'" 7' E. A vessel bound to this harbour from the east-
ward, from December till April, should endeavour to get into the latitude of
the island as soon as possible, after passing the Duperrey Isles, and continue
running to tho westward on the same parallel of latitude, until the island is
sighted, as strong westerly currents prevail at times during these months, with
much hazy wcatlicr ; and a stranger would be liable to get set past the island,
if a proper allowance were not maJe for the current. After making the land,
continue steering to the westward, until the reef is visible from the deck ; at
Avhich time, if the weather bo moderate, it is presumed a pilot will be along*
side.
The harbour forms a snug basin, where a ship can lie as safe as in a dock.
The entrance, however, is very narrow and intricate ; tho narrows for about
200 yards being only 40 fathoms wide. The outer entrance is between the two
small woody islands named Nalap and Namaur, the latter a sandy islet with
bushes on it, situated on the reef, to the eastward of the former. The channel
is 4 cables wide, between Shaulak or Little Nalap and the sandy islet. Tho
largest Nalap Island is 2^ cables in length. North and South, and tho inner one
two-thirds of a cable in extent. Namaur, on the East side, is about three-
quarters of a cable in length. The distance from the entrance to the narrows
is nearly a mile North (true) mid-channel. In entering, the elbow of tho
barrier reef to the southward of Namaur Islet, shou J have a berth of IJ cable,
as a coral spit extends from it some distance. In the middle of the outer bight
or harbour, the depth is 45 fathoms, decreasing gradually towards the narrows,
where it ranges from 10 to 15 fathoms. A detached sunken rock, with only 4
THE CABOUNE AUCHlPEtAGO.
. ., ,««s. and n
THE CABOLlNb A.W ^^ ^^^^ ^^ ^^^
to the anchorage at the head _ ^^^ ^^^^^^n the na _^^ ^^^^^
, *!, N hv E. and S. by » • V ' . ^ ^ anchorage w «»
in length. N- by ^^^^^ j^ ,„dth. The oe ^^^ ^^^^ ^^^^hout
tV:^ t;^::.-^^---^^^ dry . .. .ate.
Kiti or Boan ^^ J ^^^:^^^^^ ,f good fresh vater can ^.ay J^^ ^^ ^^^
from whence a P^*^";^^; ^^^^ean be easily obtained on ^- ^^ ,..
and an abundance of fi ev. d ^^ ^^^ ^^^^^^ "ijtust seud a boat in.
„.outh of the river. It « »"= ^.ttempting to enter must
Xe rise is 5* ft. A f "^°" '^a East side of the channel. ^^^
„ff „W,.ut "l-'T *^1\L *« re»«rl.-b<»k ot HAW ^^^^^^ .__ ^,.„^
4 ft. o« it on .bo po" ^"° ■ J .. etely »» P"""^ ^,, „„MO0S«iry. »
,h. »«ro»s » N.^^ • ^y -J „„j .. the i«'»« ''f^^*'^„.™,tot m«.t.bcaa.
..up would d^^r-'';^^ ,„„,.a fcom '""'-'"f ^„„„.H water. .»d
dUting"*'*'" *;Xi.a Wto« wM »• -*;'L .boo. to starboard
TbeordiM'y"*'"™ it i. requUilo. •' P»'"7' . ,, fctboms. Tbett
«^»art^:g":j--'--'-i^^^
round the tongu „ .i.„ ^ool to any deptb, ""
^arptonorthwardup^b P ^^^^^,^,,,adrops_ ,5^0 7' E.
,est to do eve--g - -;^;^^^, ,e found the lat. 6 4^ ^ ^^^ ^^ ^^^^ ..
" At the i«r-;;X° ,: full and change, at 6 , the r ^^^ ^^^ ^
Ccorrected). High >'«^«' , ^y Lieutenant G S. Key ^^^^^^ ^^^^
^ This anchorage --« ^^^^^^j.^,,: It is a Pf »* J f J,,,^ ,ater. which
Edwards (n^ate • o^«;^-^^„,,,.ard is a ^^^^^^^^^ \, best place for
holding gvound. To the ^^^ ^^^^^ ^,,gH ^ater^ ^^^ ^^^ ^^.
PONAPI— METALANIEN HARBOUR.
tM
on the
(true),
ly shoals
7 cables
Bt part of
its head,
', without
ow water,
anchorage,
procured,
and, at the
inge,
at 4";
i a boat in,
dangers can
le first of the
idden shift of
ace of getting
rne, 1839 : —
reefs, in which
the inner pas-
ikcn rock, with
ery stcep-to (7
course through
unnecessary, as
deep water, as
Uant mast-head,
ooth water, and
^oot to starboard
J fathoms. Then
horns, which it is
., long. 158" TE.
e was 4i feet."
nolds and Mr. R.
with strong clay
resh water, which
The best place for
, make nets and re-
scends in a torrent.
)tain Lutke says ;—
" Before the N.W. point of the island, remarkable for the high basaltic rock,
we saw a large opening in the reef, and beyond that an extent of water which
promised a good harbour. I determined once more to find a convenient an-
ohorsge. Our boats found a passage 2^ cables in width, and 25 fathoms in
depth, and beyond that, to all appearance, an extensive and safe harbour. But
hardly had they passed the entrance channel before they were met by canoes
full of natives, who surrounded them in an instant in a most turbulent manner.
Rather than come to extremities with them, the boats returned to the corvette.
It is possible that these natives had no hostile intentions, but their conduct was
such that the search was given over." This harbour was called Unwelcome
Harbour (Port du Mauvais Accucil) by Capt. Liitke, from his reception by tho
inhabitants.
Lod Harbour, another small harbour — much used by whalers, on account of
being able to sail in and out with the prevailing N.E. wind — is on tho S.E. side
of the island. The entrance is through a break in the reef, and the anchorage
between that and the mangroves which front the shore.
There is another harbour at the N.W. part of the island, in front of the high
perpendicular cliff which terminates the island of Jecoits or Joquoits to the
N.W. The entrance is through an opening in the barrier, about 2 cables wide,
but the water inside is very deep, from 25 to 30 fathoms. Capt. Moore says
that Jecoits Harbour is difficult and unsafe to attempt, and in this he was con-
firmed by examining it in n boat.
Metalanien Harbour, or Fort Metalamin, on the East sid} of the island, is
perfectly safe, and sheltered from all winds. It has a wide entrance on tho
North side of JViari Island, and the only hidden dangers to be avoided when
running in are a sunken rock, some distance within the entrance, and two
other shoals of 3 to 9 ft., farther to the westward, all nearly in mid-channel.
The sea sometimes breaks on the outer rock ; but it can always be avoided by
keeping the starboard side of the channel close aboard. The barrier reef at
this place extends a long distance from the main land, and between are many
coral fiats. The harbour is formed by the main land, and is similar in shape to
a horse-shoe, and the channel leading to it runs nearly in a direct line W.S.W.
from the entrance to the head of the harbour.
The three detached shoals in this harbour are most dihicult to see, even at
low water and with a good light. They were not visible from the mast-head of
II.M.S. Espiigle when entering the harbour, but were afterwards found to be
correctly placed on the plan; their surface being the same colour as the water,
they were not easy to see even when close to in a boat. The North point of
Tauche Island, on the South side of the harbour, was found to be in lat. 6° 51' N.,
long. 158" 18' E.— H.M.S. Espihgle, 1883.
Thia harbour may be easily recognised from seaward by a remarkable peaked
hill, resembling a spire or sugar-loaf, on the North shore within the harbour.
North Faci/ic. 6 k
*>
\&
\M
ill
> Mi
if
t
f*
!l
!
is;;
986
THE CAROLINE ARCHIPELAGO.
An abundant supply of firewood and excellent fresh water can nlwaya be ob<
tained here.
Strong N.E. winds prevail from December to April, with much hazy weather
and frequent squalls, attended with rain. During these months strong westerly
currents are very frequently experienced. From March to August the winds
are generally light and variable, but chiefly from the eastward, with much fine
weather. In September, October, and November, strong westerly winds, with
severe squalls and rain, may be expected ; and strong easterly currents are fre-
quently found during these months. On the whole, the climate must be con-
sidered very moist, as scarcely a day passes without rain, especially in winter.
The ofiScers of H.M.S. Lame made the following observations on this har-
bour : — It is highly advisable that no square-rigged vessels of any magnitude
should enter this harbour. The passage is narrow, with two rocks in it at
different angles, and as it fronts directly to the N.E., from whence the trade
wind is perpetually blowing, a heavy swell rolls in incessantly, and there being
no soundings outside the reef, it is dangerous in beating out in cose of the wind
dropping, and boats are useless for towing on account of the heavy swell. It
was entirely owing to these circumstances that the whaler Falcon, of London,
was wrecked in her attempt to beat out in July, 1 836, after having been threo
months wind-bound inside.
The Ant or Andema Group, the second cluster of the S6niavine Islands, lies
about 7 miles S. W. of Ponapi Island reef. This is the group said to be dis-
covered by Captain i'Vaser, of the ship Planter, in 1832, and named by him
William the Fourth Group, and in some charts Fraser Islands. But the dis-
covery in the Seniavine being prior to this, the credit is due to Captain Liitke.
When first approaching it, January 5, 1828, he was nearly being drifted on to
them by a calm which overtook him ; this was caused by the high land of
I'onapi interrupting the trade wind, but did not prevent the heavy swell from
rolling onwards. 'J'his incident may serve as a caution. He says that the group
is composed of a dozen coral islands of different sizes, covered with a thick
verdure. There was no appearance of habitation, but they were visited at times,
for they saw in one part a pile of stones raised on a large blackish rock. The
reef is of a triangular form, and is about 8 miles long on each side, the islands
occupying that facing the S.E. The South island is in lat. 6° 44' N., long.
157° 53' 30" E.
Capt. Cheyne, of the Naiad, calls them Ant Islands, and says they form a
group of four large, low, coral islands, covered with cocoa-nut and bread-fruit
trees, and surrounded by a coral reef, forming a lagoon inside, with a passage
between the two large islands.
These islands belong to the chiefs near Kiti Harbour. They have no per-
manent inhabitants, but are resorted to from May till September, for the
hawks-bill turtle fishery, lliey are also visited at other times for supplies of
cocoa-nuts and bread-fruit.
THE PA KIN OR P ^GUENEMA GROUP— NGATIK.
087
1
iy» be ob-
y weather
g westerly
the winds
much fine
inds, with
its ore fro-
ust be con-
in winter,
this hnr-
magnitudo
cs in it at
the trade
there being
of the wind
r swell. It
of London,
; been three
Islands, lies
1 to be dis-
med by him
But the dis-
ptaiu Liitke.
drifted on to
high land of
;y swell from
lat the group
with a thick
sited at times,
h rock. The
e, the islands
44' N., long.
i they form a
id bread-fruit
rith a passage
have no per-
nbcr, for the
)r aupplies of
The Fokin or f egnenema Group, the third and westernmost of the Sonia-
vinc Islands, is composed of five small islands, extending about 5 miles, N.W.
and S.E. The S.E. island is named Katelma, and its East point is in lat.
7^ 2' N., long. 157° 47' 30" E. The next lies \\ mile to the northword, and is
called Ta; the next is Tagaik, lat. 7'' 4' 4", long. 157° 47'. Kap mar, or
Kapenuare, is the westernmost and largest, its West point being in lat. 7° 4' 40",
long. 157^ 44'. In the Nautical Magazine, November, 1818, tlicy are called
Pakeen, and the following is the account there given of the group : —
It is composed of five small islands surrounded by a coral reef, forming n
lagoon inside, into which there is no passage through the reef The western-
most island is inhabited by a Fonapi chief, his family and servants, in nil about
thirty souls. The lagoon affords plenty of excellent fish. This place is cele-
brated for its canoe sails, whicli are manufactured from the leaves of the pan-
danus tree, and are eagerly sought after by the natives of Ponapi. Poultry
are also plentiful. In fine weather the natives, who are about 100 in number,
frequently visit Ponapi in their canoes.
NOATIK (Ngaryk), or Valientea Islands, is a small group of eij;' t coral
islands, the East extreme of which is in lat. 5° 47' 30" N., long. 157'' 32' E.
They were discovered, in 1773, by the Spanish navigator Don Felipe Tompson,
who called them Loh Valientes. Ho made a plan of them, which was found
by Capt. Liitke to be tolornbly accurate, but 1° 4' too far East. They were
seen, in 1793, by Captain Musgrave, in the Sugar-cane, who called them the
Seven Islands; and in the year following they were passed by the Britannia,
and named the Raven Islands. Captain Don Joachim Lafita saw them, and
determined their position in 1802. They were surveyed, in 1828, by Captain
Liitke, whoso account follows : —
The group is of a triangular form, and is 22 miles in circumference. We
counted eight islands, and not seven as marked on Tompson's plan. We
found a continuous reef surrounding the whole of the group, without having
the least passage into the lagoon. It would be cu ious to know if Tompson
was mistaken in marking an opening on the South side by which the natives
passed in their canoes, or whether this opening has become closed in the course
of fifty-five years by the zoophyte architects. On all the islands a large quan-
tity of cocoa-nut trees grow ; the South side of the northernmost island is quite
covered with a forest of these trees. Notwithstanding this, we saw no traces
of inhabitants except on the small island at the western angle. Tompson saw
people on the eastern islet, and canoes in the lagoon. We were surprised at
the entire absence of the latter. This was more strange, as a large quantity
of bread-fruit trees, from which they make their canoes, were seen ; and, be-
sides this, a large quantity of drift-wood lay on the shore. The population
must be very slight. It was supposed that the thirty men seen together on the
westernmost island formed the entire population.
Mr. Doane visited this group in 1874, in the missionary vessel Star, He
I*'
988
THE CAROLINE ARCHIPELAGO.
i-r;
■tates there is a boat entranoo to the lagoon near an islet on the eastern es-
trcmity of the reef. The islands are fertile, producing bread-fruit, oocoa-nutv,
sugar-cane, bananas, &o. — Qeographioal Magazine, August, 1874, pp. 203-6.
NUKUOB (Nougouorc), or Monteverde Itlandi. — This group, which lies
considerably to the South of the general line of the Caroline Archipelago, was
discovered, in 1806, by Don Juan Bapt. Monteverde, commanding the Spanish
frigate La Pala. The first or native name is that applied to them by Captain
Liitke, though he did not see them.
They were seen by Capt. R. L. Hunter, December 10th, 1840. They form
a group of small, low, coral islands, covered with cocoa-nut and other trees,
and connected by a reef, forming a lagoon inside, the whole group being only
about 12 or 14 miles in circumference. They are inhabited by n fine, hand-
some race, who are above the mean stoturc, and resemble the nntlves of the
Navigator Islands in appearance ; in 1874 they numbered about 150. Their
cnnocs are neat, and capable of carrying 12 men. The centre of the group is
in lot. 3° 62' N., long. 164° 56' E.
There is only one passage into the lagoon, and that is on the S.E. side ; it is
about 20 yards broad, and has been used by trading schooners. The tide runs
strongly through it, the ebb forming a heavy race outside dangerous to boats.
Matador Island. — In 1876 the master of a British schooner announced the
discovery of a group of fifteen small coral islands on an atoll, in lat. 1° 30' N.,
long. 167° E. (approximate). One of the islands was inhabited ; the natives
were very shy, and said the island was named Matador. This may be Spartan
Island, reported by the American ship Spartan, in lat. 1° 10' N., long.
159' 30' E.
OBEENWICE or Gonatantin Island. — This isolated spot was seen in 1825>
and then had the first name applied to it. It was again reported in the
Nautical Magazine, 1862, page 226, and was considered as doubtful. It was
then seen on December 20th, 1833, by Capt. Tardy de Montravel of the French
Marine, who has done great services to hydrographical science, in the French
ship Conataniin, bound to New Caledonia. They were again seen by Captain
W. Symington, in the Northfleet, 1864, and from the Spanish frigate Beren-
guela, 1866. Still more recently they have been seen and described by Capt.
Hamilton, barque Fire Queen, 1877. Their native name is Kapinga Malany.
The group forms an atoll similar to Nukuor, having twenty-eight small, low,
eoral islets, covered with cocoa-nut trees, on its eastern side, the western side
being coral reef. The reef is triangular in shape, with its base to the north-
trard, and is about 14 miles in extent North and South, and 8 or 9 miles East
and West, enclosing a lagoon. Only two islands are inhabited, both at the
S.W. portion of the group ; on one of these is a mound about 80 ft. high,
ORALUK.
980
le eastern ex-
it, coooa-Dut0,
1, pp. 203-5.
ip, which lies
shipelago, wa>
\g the Spanish
}ni by Captain
They form
d other trees,
up being only
ft fine, hand-
nPttves of the
150. Their
f the group is
3.E. aide ; it is
The tide runs
rous to boats.
announced the
lat. 1" 30' N.,
d ; the natives
ay be Spartan
10' N., long.
I seen in 1825t
ported in the
btful. It was
of the French
in the French
len by Captain
frigate Beren-
ribed by Capt.
jinffo Malany.
;ht small, low,
3 western side
to the north-
r miles East
I, both at the
ut 80 ft. high,
formed of dead coral. At the eastern extremity of the reef is a sand-bank. On
the South side there is a boat entrance to the lagoon, about 1 mile westward
of the western island. The East end of the group is in about lat. 1* 4' N., long.
164» 46' E.*
UEALUX, San Aguttino, or Dordelaite Island. — This is a small, low, coral
island, 2 miles long, and about 100 ft. high, with a reef projecting from it to
the S.E. for 18 miles. It wos perhaps discovered, in 1826, by Capt. Snliz, com-
manding Le Penmen, of Bordeaux. The reef forms a lagoon inside it, nnd
from its S.E. pnrt the island cannot be seen ; it is, therefore, very dangerous.
The island is in about lat. 7° 38' N., long. 155<> 0' E.
Several discoveries are stated to have been made in this immediate neigh-
bourhood. Jane Island, by Capt. Johnson, of the ship Guilford, in October,
1827, in lat. 7° 3 3'. His description, which accords very
nearly with that of Cnpt. Salie, is that of a low island, half a mile in length,
with II very dangerous reef running off the S.E. extreme to the distance of 5
miles, and a chain of rocks extending to the E.S.E., as far as could be seen
from the mast-head. Near the East extreme lies Baxo Trista, 50 ft. high.
Isabella Beef, so called from the wreck of a whaler of that name, was said
in the usual vague manner to be 80 miles long, and in lat. 7'' 21' N., long.
156" 30' E. Mr. Bray, of the Morning Star, 1880, states that he sighted a
small reef, which had a low growth of bushes on it, in lat. 7° 25' N., long.
156° 28' E. Cupt. Hamilton, of the Fire Queen, 1866—1872, states thot ho
passed this position on three occasions, no signs of a reef being visible.
Amicitia Island, in lat. 7° 35' N., long. 156° 45' E., is another doubtful
announcement. That the neighbourhood requires examination, the following
will still further demonstrate.
Another is Larhins or Campbell Reef, a dangerous reef discovered by Capt.
W. Campbell, of the ship Larkins, February 23, 1830. The N.E. point is
placed in lat. 7' 36' N., long. Ibb" 10' E. He did not see the small island, but
says it is 14 miles E.S.E. of Bordelaisc Island. Meaburn Island, in lat. 7" 49',
long. 155° 20', must be the same. San Agustino Island and Bnxo Trista, dis-
covered by Don F. Tompson, which, though placed by him 2" to the East,
would appear to bo the same ; more particularly, as, should the position have
been conect, ho would have been within sight of the high Seniavine Islands.
Liitkc discovered an error of V 4' in the longitude of Los Yalientes, which
would reduce the discrepancies to 1°, which Admiral Krusenstern considers
ought not to bo considered as decisive.
* DscAroLis KiF.r, reported to have been seen from the vessel of thnt name, in May,
1809, at hall a mile distHnco, in Int. 0* 32' K., long, about 152' 61' E., seemed to bo of
smnll extent, and the srn, nlthough smooth nt the time, broke oceastonnlljr over it It is
doubtful whether it exittd.
w
■ «'
■ 4l'
i''^:;
mh
I I
I i
1 !?
i 1
I I
1 :i
■■ ■ i (
m
:1N:
:i l!|
\B
990
THE CAROLINE ARCHIPELAGO.
Bordelaise Inland, therefore, it is very probable, is the only island. It is
covered with bushes and pnlm-trecs, and can only bo seen 10 or 12 miles.
M. Edw. du Fernet, master of an Oahu schooner, was wrecked on its reef in
1843, and remained on the islet five months, during which tin»c they built a
small craft which carried them safe to Guam. He was pretty certain that no
other island existed near it. The island is uninhabited, but we cannot bo cer-
tain of its character, or of the authenticity of the various announcements, till
a further examination is made.
Wishart Reef, 3Itn(o Breakers, or Costello Reef.— On January 3rd, 1842,
Capt. J. R. Wishart, in the barque Countess of Mmto, saw a patch of breakers,
dry in some places, more particularly in the North part, extending in a N.W.
and S.E. direction. He made it in lat. 8° 10' N., long. 154° 19' E. (corrected).
It was again seen by Capt. Agostinho Costello, in the Sardinian schooner Sofia,
November 27, 1854; a wreck, with only the bowsprit and jibboom, was lying
on the East port. It was described as of an ellipical form, 7 miles long. East
and West, and 2 miles broad. North an 1 South. Except the small portion at
the point where the ship lay, it was awash, or some feet under water, when the
sea breaks all over it. Lat. stated 8" 6' N., long. 154° 0' E. It was again seen
by Capt. Richards, in the Siamese ship Ocean Queen, July 25, 1855, the wreck
still lying on it. The position of the latter was lat. 8° 6' N., long. 154° 20' 30" E.
It was again seen by Capt. Webb, in the ship Mildman, in 1858. He saw two
wrecks on it, and places the West end of it in lat. 8° 8' N., long. 154° 29' E.
From an anuouuccment in the San Francisco Herald, a reef, 10 miles long,
lies in lat. 7' 56' N., long. 154° 20' E. All these announcements evidently refer
to the same reef, and arc tolerably accordant. The mean of the five positions,
supposing them to refer to the South end, as they appear to do, would place it
in about lat. 8° 5' N., long. 154° 17' E.
Dankin Beef, seen, in 1824, by the person whose name it bears, is marked
as an extensive shoal, the South end of which is in lat. 8° 50' N., long. 154° 10' E.
It is possible that it may be the same as Wishart Eeef, but as another announce-
ment, by a whaler, places it nearly in the above latitude, or 9° 0' N., 55 miles
northward jf the mean lai itude of the former, it must be considered for the
present as a separate danger, of unknown extent and character, but its South
end in about lat. 8° 55' N., long. 154° E.
LOSAP (Louasappc) is a small island, discovered and named by Captain
Duperrey, in lat. C° 53' N., long. 152" 42' 20" E. In the secoud volume of
Admiral Krusenstern's Memoir (p. 347) it is called Duperrey Island, but this
was before tlic publication of that commander's voyage. They are called the
Westtnelis fslands by the apocryphal Capt. Morrell, who believed them to bo
a new discovery, February 23, 1830. He says they seem to be composed of
three small low islands, of nearly equal size, connected by a coral reef. They
are well wooded with cocoa-nut and bread-fruit trees. They were neither of
them more than 5 miles iu circumference, and had biche-de-mar and pearl-
LOSAP— MOUTLOCK ISLES— LUKUXOR.
991
sland. It is
or 12 miles,
n its reef in
they built a
tain that no
annot bo ccr-
iicemcnts, till
ry 3rd, 1842,
1 of breakers,
ig in a N.W.
. (corrected).
hooner Sofia,
)m, was lying
es long. East
all portion nt
ter, when the
'as again seen
!53, the wreck
,54°20'a0"l';.
. lie saw two
, 154° 29' E.
miles long,
evidently refer
five positions,
would place it
nrs, is marked
ng. 154" 10' E.
iher announce-
I' N., 55 miles
idercd for the
but its South
ed by Captain
)ud volume of
land, but this
are called the
'ed them to be
e composed of
al reef. They
ere neither of
lar and pearl-
oysters on the rocfs. In 1874 the population was thought to uumber about
500.*
Losac is a beautiful lagoon, free frora shoals, and has n depth of about IG
fathoms. There is a nari'ow passage upon the eastern rcuf very much liko that
at Ebon, and it should be used only in the same manner. Upon the vkostern
reef are there six passages; some of them, however, have rocks in tLein with
not more than 2 J and 3 fathoms on them, and one I found with only 9 ft. The
best passage is the one to the South of the only large sand-baak upon the
reef. At the N.E. end of the lagoon there is a sn:!li lagoon within tho lagoon ;
there is good anchorage there in 8 fathoms. />' Uiville, properly calJcd Namu,
is a small island 12 miles N.W. of Losap, without any lagoon, and consider-
ably higher than most coral islands. It has no anchorage. — (J/c. /. Bray.)
It is thickly wooded with bread-fruit and cocoa-nut trees, and has about 150 or
200 inhabitants.
The eastern Losap Island appears to be in about lat. 6' 5.T N., long. 152" 42 E.,
and D'Urville Island in lat. 6° 59', long. 152° 33',
MOBTLOCK ISLES were discovered November 29, 1793, by Capt. James
Mortlock, commanding the ship Young William. Admiral Kriiscnstern ap-
plied the name of the discoverer to them, while on other cliaits the. name of
his vessel is given. Mortlock only saw their South side, and consequently
gained a very imperfect notion of them. This is obviated by the examination
made by Capt. Liitke. He surveyed the group, and they arc considered as
separate islands in Dr. Gulick's list, consisting of Luknnor, Sotoun, and Elul,
Capt. Cheyne says that these islands are well inhabited by an able-bodied
race, of a light complexion. Strangers should be very cautious in holding in-
tercourse with them, au hey are not to be trusted, no matter how friendly they
may appear. Under no consideration should any of them be allowed on deck.
Mr. Doanc, however, states that his experience does nryt agree with this, ilio
natives being very friendly during the stay of the Star.
The following are Liitke's description of them : — Between the lat. of 5° 17'
and 5° 37' N., long. 153° 59' and 153° 37' E., aro three low coral groups, on
which may be reckoned ninety islets of various dimensions.
LUKUNOR {Lougounor, Liitke — Lugunor, Cheyne), the easternmost of
these groups, is of an oval form, and about 1 8 or 20 miles in circuii. Lukunor
Island, at the eastern angle, is curved into the form of a horse-shoe, and forms
on its West side an excellent port, named Chatnisso, in honour of the naiurulist
who gave to the world the first notions worthy of credit on this archipelago.
• San Rafael Island of Captain Montevoido, 1800, nnd ao named by Diiporrcj', is
placed in 7" 18' N., lon^- 153" 5j' E., or 76 miles to the K.N.E. of Lo»ap I<4«nd. It in not
enumcmtcd in Dr. Gulick'< list, nnd thcio is somo ilnubt as to H» eiUtnncc. If not, it id
poBiDK ii some de«
greo coincide.
m
I
■1 ■■><
v';.
m.
M >•
:l'i
I
1 1
5.
992
THE CAROLINE ARCHIPELAGO.
The greatest breadth of the island is one-third of a mile, and its middle,
raised about 7 ft. above the sea, is covered with bread-fruit trees, and, on the
shores particularly, cocoa-nut and other trees. The southern part of the
island is sandy, but towards the North there is much vegetable mould, on
whioh arc the arum plantations, which require a very humid soil, and near to
whtefa are all the habitations of the natives. These plantations arc intersected
by xaan&w channels, which conduct the water to irrigate all parts, and serve as
boundary marks. The woods which surround them form a magnificent pano-
MMiiR, where plants rf every species arc in infinite varie^, giving the most ex-
c«ttent idea of the /Koductions of tb*^* low islands.
ISi*! wland naturally has no fresh water, but the rain-water is collected in
trenches and in excavations in the trunks of those cocoa-nut trees that arc in-
clined. The water in the trenches was always found to be brackish, and
smelt bad, 'J'his slight resource suffices for the inhabitants, inasmuch as they
drink but little, and the cocoa-nut supplies the deficiencies by its delicious
contents.
The Lukunorians were found by Capt. ]jiitke to b*? hospitable, kind, reserved,
and of agreeable manners ; they are above the middle sj.^e. 1'heir canoes are
constructed with infinite pains, and are very carefully preserved ; and in their
management they sliow great skill and judgment in the very long voyages which
they undertake These islanders are the easternmost of the Caroline natives
who thus vravcl,
Lukunor offers no more resources than any other of the low coral islaudn.
A good supply of cocoa-nuts may be looked for ; bread-fruit can only be had
in the season. Some poultry and pigeons were also procured. In 1 874 the
population was about 1 ,500.
Port Chamieso. — The entrance to this anchorage is between the West end
of Lukunor Island an''! the East end of Siapunor Island r it is about 2^ cables
wide, with 22 to 1 2 fathoms in it. To enter, keep dose round the West end
of Lukunor Island, and then steer E.N.E. for the anchorage in 1 2 to 10 fathoms,
fine 8»ad. The observation spot, 6 cables from the West end of Lukunor Island,
is in lat. 5° 29' 18" N., long. 163° 58' E.
" Here we find, if I mistake not, the gem of the coral islat\d» in Micronesia.
The lagoon, comparatively free from coral patches, and the islets fertile, and
so situated as to protect the anchoring ground, which has a fine bottom, and
close in to the shore if needed, and not deep, the contour of the atoll, the mild-
ness of the people, all combine to make this a beautiful island. There is but
one passitj^i , though easy of access, on the South side." — Mr. Doane.
The 80T0AN GROUP, to the S.W. of Lukunor, is 17 miles in length, N. W.
MVl '*, E, and 12 miles broad; about si.icty islets were counted on it. Two
puMajji.-t offer access to the lagoon, one on the South side, and the other on
th« Nort* the lagoon is stated to be very free from coral patches, All the
islets are ccrvfired with wood, the bread-fniit, cocoa-nut, and pandanus being
frnkt
0.
mile, and its niidtllc,
ruit trees, and, on the
Jouthern part of the
vegetable mould, on
mid soil, and near to
tations are intersected
ill parts, and serve as
a magnificent pano-
> giving the most ex-
vater is collected in
nit trees that arc in-
to bo brackish, and
s. inasmuch as they
'ies by its delicious
able, kind, reserved.
'J'heii- canoes are
ei-ved ; and iu their
long voyages which
le Caroline natives
low coral islands.
t can only be had
red. In 1874 the
^cn
the West end
nbout 2^ cables
i the West end
12 to 10 fathoms,
Lukunor Island,
le
ids in Micronesia,
islets fertile, and
i"e bottom, and
atoll, the mild-
I- Thcic is but
Doattfi.
in length, N.W.
ted on it. Two
id the other on
atchcs, All the
pandanus bcioj*
THE SOTOAN GROUP— TRUK Oil HOGOLEU ISLANDS. \m
abundant. Only two or three canoes approached the Seniavine, but no coni-
muuicatiou was held with them.
Capt. Cheyne, in the Naiad, visited the islands in October, 1844. He found
a good passage through the reef, on the S.W. part of the group, and anchorage
iu the lagoon, near the entrance, but the bottom was very uneven and rocky.
The Naiad anchored in 25 f.ithoms, about three-quarters of a mile to the
northward of the entrance, inside of a small islet bearing S.W. from her one-
quarter of a mile, and lay there three weeks, during which time they built a
biche-de-mar house on the small island, but could not get the natives to coia;et
the slug, and consequently were obliged to leave. In 1874 the populatiou was
conmuted to be about 1 ,500.
The West end of Ta Island, on the East side of the southern pass, is in lal.
6° 17' N., long. 163° 46' E.
The ETAL GEOUP is the third and northernmost of the Mortlock Isles ; it
ia a small group, not more than 12 miles in circumference, and composed of
several low coral islands and islets, thickly wooded, connected by a reef, form-
ing a lagoon, with no entrance for ships. The channel between it and Sotoan
is about 3 miles wide, and clear of danger. The centre of the group is in
about lat. 5° 35' N., long. 153° 43' E. In 1874 the population was about 600.
NAMOLTIK ISLANDS lie about 33 miles to the N.W. of Lukunor, and
were discovered by Capt. Liitke. In coming from the North, the Seniavine
passed them, at the distance of less than 12 miles, which shows how readily
these islands may be unnoticed even within such a distance. They were also
probably seen by Capt. Harwood, in the ship Hastings. They are most likely
the same as the Hashmy Islands (called by Dr. Gulick Mokor*), announced
as bemg very populous in the Sydney Herald, March 25, 1833. Capt. Clieyne,
of the JN'iaiai^, says xhey are five in number, the group 15 miles iu circum-
ference, of a circular form, 1 00 ft. high (to the top of the trees ?) and well
wooded with cocoa-nut, bread-fruit, and other trees. The reef may be ap-
proached within 200 yards, as no hiddeB dangers exist. The natives, he says,
though wearing the mask af friendsh^, are by no meims to be trusted, in
1874 the population was eatimated to number from 300 to 500. There is only
u boat passage into the lagoon. Amesse, the soutlieru island, is in latituile
6° 45' 15" N., long. 1;)3" 16' 30" E
TRUK or HOGOLEU ISLANDS. -This group is composed of four or five
large and lofty basaltic inlands, surrounded by a barrier reef, on which are a
great number of coral islands. It is one of the most extensive in the Caroline
Archipelago, and was disewvered by Captaiu Duptney, June 24, 1821. His
• Mokor Island (lat. 6» 41 N., long. IS'i' 40' E.) I could not And, though I searched for
it. I have liecn told by trKdinfj; oaj t.iins that it ia (eit.ou thrrc is iij iolaiid there. — Mr. J,
Oray, of tha Mnrnitiif Star, 1880.
North Pocific. 6 I,
i:!i;
994
THE CAROLINE ARCHIPELAGO.
survey, puLlislied on a large scale in the atlas of his voyage, compiiHOs almost
the sura of our knowledge of them, as the relation of his voyage, as fur as con-
cerns this part of the Pacific, has not been published. The north* iraost of
the group, Pise Island, is in lat. T" 42' 30" N., long. 151^ 46' E. ; the southern-
most. South Island, in lat. 6° 57', long. 151° 67' 30"; Torres Island, the
westernmost, in lat. 7° 20', long. 151" 24' ; and the easternmost, in lat. 7° 20 ,
long. 152^ 0' 30". The largest of them, Tol, is not more than 10 miles in cir-
cumference ; it is of very irregular form, and on each of its projections is a
hill, that to the S.E. being 700 ft. high. At 12 miles to the East of it is link,
4 miles long, and 700 ft. high.
Tsis Islet is three-quarters of a mile in extent, covered with cocoa-nut trees
and other wood. It has anchorage to the N. W. of it. and plenty of fresh
water can be procured ou the North side. Its North point is in lat. 7"^ 18' 30 " N.,
long. 151" 48' 30" E.
The Royalist Islands of Captain Chcyne are probably the S.E. extreme of
Ilogoleu. He passed 7 or 8 miles to the eastward of them in October, 1844,
and thought them a distinct group, as no part of the larger islands was visible.
They are low, of coral, covered witli wood, and enclosing a lagoon. They were
thickly peopled by a vigorous race.
This southern {>rotip is a reef of rectangular form, about 12 miles long,
N.W. and S.E., and 5 miles broad ; inside this reef (on which is the island of
Givi-y on the North, Hacq Island on the N.E., Lauvergnc Island on the S.E. side,
and South Island on the extreme South corner) is a large clear lagoon, with
one eiilranct on the S.W. side- I'he Blanche steamed along the S.W. and
N.W. side?, crossing the true Hogolu barrier reef in long. 152° E., carrying
from 7 to 8 fathoms, with shoal patches nearly awash on either side, and an-
chored in 17 fathoms off the N.W. end of Tsis Island. The natives were quite
naked, armed with spears and slings, are savage, and not to be trusted. On
weighing, with the intention of examining the group to the northward, found
it full of shoals, and, the weather being unfavourable, stood out of the passage
in the Hogolu barrier reef, bearing S.W. from the anchorage off Tsis Island,
with no bottom at 17 fathoms ; found the longitude, as marked in the Admi-
ralty chart, about 8 miles too far to the westward. — Captain Simpson, H.M.S.
Blanche, 1872.
Capt. Morrell gives a glowing picture of the people, but unfortunately it is
not correct. Capt. Cheyne, in the brig hniad ixwA Will-o" -the- Wisp, came here
in October, 1844, to collect biche-de-mar, and were completely taken off their
guard by the apparent fi iendlincss of the natives, who at first assisted them to
build their curing-houses. As soon as the brig loft, they attacked the schooner
with a force of 2,000 men, and were only repulsed with desperate fighting, nnd
the loss of six killed and five woinuled. They also seized the long-boat, which
was recovered the same day, and a severe drubbing administered. They liiul a
^
TIIUK OR lIOGOLtU ISLANDS— HALL ISLANDS.
996
comprises almost
je, as far as con-
northf imost of
!. ; the southern-
'ren Island, the
St, in lat. 7° 20 ,
10 miles in cir-
projoctions is a
last of it is Ititk,
cocoa-nut trees
plenty of fresh
lit. 7M8'30"N.,
I.E. extreme of
October, 1844,
nds was visible.
Jon. They were
12 miles lonjj,
is the island of
>n the S.E. side,
ir lagoon, with
the S.W. and
!° E., carrying
■ side, and nn-
ives were quite
B trusted. On
rthward, found
of the passage
ff Tsis Island,
I in the Admi-
npson, H.M.S.
irlunately it is
isp, came here
taken off their
isisted them to
d the schooner
e fighting, rind
ig-boat, which
1. They hail a
great number of large Spanish knives, and were armed with brass-hilted cut-
lasses. The population, according to Dr. Oulick, was 5,000.
The following more recent account is by Mr. J. Bray, of the missionary packet
Morning Star, 1880.
Tlie Truk, or Hogolu group, is in a vast lagoon like a large lake in the sea,
anil is a beautiful place. There are ten high islands in the lagoon, varying
from 10 to 15 miles in circumference, and from 200 to 1,000 ft. high, and
scores of smaller ones are found throughout the lagoon and upon the surround-
ing reefs. Givry, Hacq, Lauvergne, nd South Islands are upon a separate
reef, enclosing a lagoon into which thi • o seemed to be a passage at the S.E.
and N.W. Betweeii the two groups there is a wide clear passage with deep
water and a strong current running West.
Following up the eastern reef, we came to a good passage through the reef
about 300 yards wide, having a bank of 5 and 6 fathoms across its mouth, and
a good-sized island on its South side, called by the natives Woles Island, pro-
bably Caplin Island of the charts. On the North side is a small islet, or I
might say it is in the passage, as there is a small passage North of that again.
At 3i miles North of this there is another good passage about half the width
of the preceding; the island just South of it is named Chassant, the natives
call it Silat. At 14 miles farther North, in lat. 7' 30' N., there is a splendid
])assage a mile or more wide, with 15 fathoms of water, but just inside is a
small 3-fathoms bank. There are tide-rips in the passage during the N.E.
trades. At the North end of the lagoon the natives reported three more good
passages — the first 1 1 miles North of the last-mentioned ; also a passage at
each end of Pise Island.
Between Cuop Islands and Falau Islet there are five other passages through
the reef. The best is the first one East of Falau Islet, this islet being a good
mark to steer for, as it stands alone, and is well covered with high wood. I
think good anchorage can be found almost anywhere in the lagoon. The
soundings we took varied from 15 to 27 fathoms. We anchored near the S.E.
end of Umol Island, in 17 fathoms. More sheltered anchorage, however, can
be found ia the channel between Umol and Ruk Islands, in 17 to 19 fathoms.
The natives report numerous good passages through the reef extending to the
West and North from Falau Islet.
The natives are larger than any we have seen at any other of the Pacific
islands, and a ve:y amiable «nd pleasant people to meet. They aie very hos-
tile to each other, and each island has its own clan. I think there would he
no further danger, however, to any vessel visiting the lagoon. Mr. Kubary,
a German natuialist, who resided here for a year, estimates the populatiou at
10,000.
HALL ISLANDS. — In the relation of the v(>yag«B of Captain Saliz, in the
French ship Le Peruvien, 1823-27. it is stated that this giouj) was *i.seovere(l
by an English commundur uuiued llall, ia 1824, and that it coiMi«i or iu lat.
amesa, re-
ih the sea
1 Captain
r, was ob-
reporte,! a
16' E. Ha
>P) and 16
rface. He
loms, then
•rrect, the
it should
I' Captuia
nerved in lat. 7' 7' N., long. 149° 13 E., or about 12^ miles S. i W. from Alet.
The reef extended 1^ mile, N.N.W. and S.S.E., and the breadth was estimated
at half a mile.
SUK (Poulousouk, Sooughe), or Ihargoitia Island, was seen by Captain
Ibargoitia in 1799 and 1801. It was named Poulousouk (Pulo Suk) by Capt.
Freycinet, and was taken by Ibargoitia, though with no probability, for the
San Bartolome of Quiros, in 1597. Its position is about lat. 6° 40', long.
149° 23' E. It is of coral formation, covered with cocoa-nut trees, and similar
in size and appearance to Poulouhot. It is inhabited by a light-complexioned
race, about 100 in number. It is called Sooughe on Liitkc's chart. At 15 miles
to the East of it is a bank, seen by the vessel La Paz, in 1819.
Capt. Cheyne says : — I was told by the master of a whaler some years ago,
that a coral bank, with irregular soundings of from 10 to 30 fathoms, extends
from this island to the N.W., for a considerable distance, and terminafes in a
dangerous reef. The only idea he could give of the distance was, that when
abreast of the reef, the trees on Pulo-souk were just visible from the topsail-
yard. This danger requires confirmation ; but ships passing should be on their
guard, and keep a good look-out.
Lady Elgin or Irons Shoal. — A coral shoal was sailed over by Captain D.
Irons, of the Lady Elgin. The spot struck in 10 fathoms was in lat. 6^ 18' N.,
long. 149° 28' 30" E., from which a depth of 7i fathoms was carried for about
1 J mile to S.S.W., and then to N.N.W., when broken water was seen to North,
and clear water to West — {Naut. Mag., 1855, p. 278.) It may be the same as
La Paz Bank of 1819, which is placed at 25 miles to the northward.
Helene Beef. — In 1874, Capt. Leverson, of the German barque Helene, re-
ported the existence of a reef in about lat. 5° 30' N., long. 149° 10' E. The
reef, on which the sea was breaking, appeared to be about 8 miles long,
E. by S. and W. by N., and about a quarter of a mile broad. Captain
Siveright, of the barque Wandering Minstrel, also stated that he found a coral
bank, of 7 to 9 fathoms, in lat. 5° 32' N., long. 149° 13' E.
A bank of 13 fathoms has also been reported in lat. 4^ 13' N., long. 150° 15' E.
PIEELOT, or Coquille Islet.— This small islet was seen July 3, 1824, by
Capt. Duperrey. It was named after Duperrey's vessel by Krusenstern ; the
discoverer named it Bigali ; Liitke writes it Pigali or Pyghella, and places it
in lat. 8° 9' N., long. 147° 42' E. Don Luis Torres, who saw it and the adja-
cent island, names them Pigouelao and Faliao. It is not more than 300 yards
in diameter, and nearly level with the water's edge, and surrounded by a reef,
half a mile long. North and South. It is covered with a thick undergrowth of
bushes, and about fifty cocoa-nut trees. It is uninhabited.
WEST FAIU ISLET, in lat. 8° 3' N., long. 146° 60' E., that is, 52i miles
W. by S. of Pikelot, is a similar islet to '.t, both in size and character ; but the
reef extends over 2 miles eastward and westward of it, forming a lagoon on its
southern side. There is a high wood on the island, among which bread-fruit
m
i
■ •'■:
n
"'
' *
I
f i
If
1000
THE CAROLINE ARCHIPELAGO.
trees were seen, but not a single cocoa-nut tree. It is also uninhabited. Tlicre
is another island of the same name to the eastward, before alluded to, which
has been named Liitko Island for distinction.
Oraitilipou Bank, seen by Don Luis Torrss, lies somewhere between these
two islets. It had but 1 1 fathoms over it, but was not found by Liitkc, after
a careful search. It is placed on the chart in lat. 8° 7' N., long. 147° 16' E.
Fikela or Lydia Island is marked on Capt. Duperrcy's chart in lat. 8° 38',
long. 147° 10' (147° 13'). Its existence may be considered as doubtful, but it
is mentioned in Dr. Gulick's list.
8ATAWAL (Setuahal), or Tucker Island, was seen by Capt. Wilson, in the
missionary ship Duff, October 25, 1793. Duperrey places it in lat. 7° 22' N.,
long. 147° 6' E. The i.sland is not more than 2 or 3 miles in circumference,
and the articles of subsistence it produces are supposed to be only fish, roots,
cocoa-nuts, and, perhaps, bread-fruit. When the Duff approached, some canoes
of natives (not a stout race) came ofiP, and two men. Tucker and Connelly, de-
serted here. Capt. Oheyne (1846) says that it may be approached within one-
quarter of a mile, as no hidden danger exists ; that it is of coral formation,
covered with cocoa-nut trees. It had about 200 inhabitants.
Swede Islands consist of three separate groups, that to the East being named
Lamotrek (Namurrek, or Namouttek) ; the middle group, Elato ; and the
N.W. group, Olimarao, or Namoliaour. They are most likely the islands named
Swede and Haweis Islands by Captain Wilson, of the Duff, 1793, the first on
accourt of a Swedish sailor of his, who was landed at his own request on one
of them. They were examined by Liitke.
LAMOTBEK (of Dr. Qulick), an atoll of triangular form, is 7 miles in ex-
tent, E.S.E. and W.N.W. Several islets stand on the reef, which encloses the
lagoon, the S.E. of which is in lat. 7° 27' N., long. 146° 30' E. The popula-
tion was about 200.
ELATO, or Haweis, is nearly on the same parallel as Lamotrek, in 7^ 30' N.,
long. 146° 19' E. This group consists of an uncovered reef, 4 J miles in length,
N.N.E. and S.S.W., and 8 cables in its greatest breath, with some islets, the
southern of which is called Falipi. On the chart of Cantova, nearly in this
spot, it is marked Bank of Falipi. Can this bank have become an island in
the interval of 100 years ? There is a port in the Elato group, and the vessels
sent from the Marianas to collect biche-de-mar always stop here. Ca])t. Liitke
could not find the entrance to the lagoon, which he was afterwards told was
on the eastern side, contrary to the usual law of coral reefs. The natives were
very shy, and would not visit his ship. The population is about 300.
ToasB. — At a little over a mile S.S.E. from Falipi is the northern end of a
smaller reef, on the South end of which are the islands named Namoliaoure
and Toass, the latter in lat. 7° 24' 30" N., long. 146° 19* E. This reef is about
1 J mile long, N.W. and S.E., and encloses a lagoon.
OLIMAEAO ISLES are two small islets, lying on the N.E. and S.W. ex-
ted. There
to, which
ween these
jiitkc, after
47° 16' E.
lat. 8° 38',
btful, but it
ilaon, in the
It. 7° 22' N.,
cumference,
fish, roots,
some canoes
;]!onnelly, de-
i within one-
ol formation,
being named
Uo ; and the
islands named
1, the first on
squest on one
7 miles in ex-
h encloses the
The popula-
k, in 7^30' N.,
liles in length,
)mc islets, the
nearly in this
le an island in
and the vessels
I. Capt. Liitke
wards told was
le natives were
It 300.
thern end of a
d Namoliaoure
kis reef is about
, and S.W. ex-
IFALIK— WOLEA.
1001
trcmities of a reef, discovered by Captain Liitke in 1828, Olimarao, the N.E.
islet, being in lat. 7" 43' 30" N., long. 145" 66' 45" E. The group is not moro
than 5 or 6 miles in circuit, aad had some timid inhabitants, who asked for
food. The natives are about 200 in number.
lanthe or Nile Shoal. — Two shoals have been announced as existing at 105
and 125 miles respectively distant from Ifalik or Wilson Island, in a south-
easterly direction. The first by the ship lanlhe, in 1845, as in lat. 5'^ 53' N.,
long. 145° 39' E. (Nattt. Mat/., 1846, page 265, and 1861, page 160); and the
second by the barque Nile, in 1860, as in lat. 6° 31', long. 115" 42', nearly on
the same met idian, but 22 miles apart.
The lanthe passed within one or two ships' lengths of the eastern edge and
the shoalest part of a ridge of sharp rocks (apparently not moro than 8 or 1
feet under water, the water of a milky whiteness) in soundings of probably 6
or 8 fathoms. The shoal appeared to extend 8. by E. and N. by W., about
half a mile. The lanlhe claims to have obtained, on the same day, a good
meridian altitude, and estimated the nearest land to have been distant 85 miles.
The Nile passed over a reef, with little room to spare, the rocks being plainly
seen on each side of the vessel, and the man aloft reported breakers on ono
side ; the barque was before the wind, and only u few minutes between the
rocks. Notwithstanding the great difference in the latitude, the two reports
refer probably to one and the same reef.
Should they be but one reef, the mean latitude would be 5° 42' N., otherwise
there may be a continuous reef, or series of reefs, between the above parallels.
IFALIK or Wilson Islands. — 'lliis is a small group, seen as (wo isles by
Wilson, in the Duff, in 1793. They were visited by Liitke, April 3, 1828,
and were found to consist not of two, but oi/our islets ; Ifalik (or Evalouk),
Moat, Ella, and Fararik, lying, as usual, on the edges of a lagoon about 5
miles in circumference. This group is more populous in proportion than the
others. The Seniavine was soon surrounded by twenty-five canoes, containing
at least a hundred natives, who were distinguished from all the rest of the
Caroliners by their clamorous disposition ; he had some little trouble from their
stealing propensities. Capt. Cheyne says there is a good boat passage through
the reef, on the South side of the group. The islets are covered with cocoa-
nut and bread-fruit trees. The S.E. point of the group is in lat. 7' 14' N.,
long. 144° 31' E. The population was about 200.
At 1 1 miles N.E. by N. of this group is a bank of 1 2 fathoms, with probably
less water.
• WOLEA or Ulie Islands.— Captain Wilson, in the Duff, 1793, discovered
a group, which he named the Thirlee?i Islands ; but when the minute cxaiiiiim-
tioii was made by Lieut. Zavalichine, Capt. Liitke's officer, it was found to
consist of twenty-two islands, the names of which are very well designated on
Captain Freycinet's chart, and by M. Chamisso. The name, as given on the
North Pacific. tj m
.:•!;;;-
IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)
1.0
I.I
1.25
tli Wi» |2.S
12.2
1^ m
1^
2.0
1.4
— 6"
III
1.6
ff\
vi
'^^^*
■^
7
Photographic
Sciences
Corporation
23 WEST MAIN STREET
WEBSTER, N.Y. 14SS0
(716) 873-4503
o^
1002
THE CAROLINE AUCniPELAGO.
(
chart on a largo scale then drawn up, in Oulltay, in the narrative Ouleai, hj '
Dr. Gulick, as above.
From the observations made in the SMavine, the northern point of Jlaour,
the easternmost of the group, lies in lat. 7^21' 39' N., long. NS" 57' 30" E.
The charts of this group are a very good example of what exaggeration will
do to mislead the navigator. In the old charts this group occupies a space of
two or three deyreee in lont^'ttde. Capt. Frcycinet reduced it to eeventy tnilei;
but when the survey was made by Capt. Littke, it was found not to exceed six
nautic miles in extent.
The fatiguing uniformity of the coral islands has at least this advantage,
that one description serves for all. But the Wolea group differs from the
others in this respect. Its figure is very irregular; it has two projecting
angles to the North, and a deep indentation between them. According to the
usual hypothesis of formation, this figure cannot be explained but by supposing
that two independent groups were formed at the same time in this part The
ehannel of 12 yards, between the islands of Anyaliyarail and Farailet, seems
to mark their separation. The reef, which extends thence to the S.E., re-
unites abreast of Motoyozeu to the reef running from Raour Island, thus com-
pleting the eastern group ; at the same time a depth of 4^ fathoms, and the
reef extending East and N.E. from Felalis, marks the direction of the prolonged
reef, which would in time reach to Farailcs, and form the western group.
WoIea or Ouleai, properly so called, is advantageously distinguished not only
firom the rest of the group, but from the generality of coral islands. Its southern
side has : .ot the shoal which renders landing so difficult elsewhere ; but the
shore rises with a tolerably steep ascent, presenting an even, clean, sandy
bottom, on which every grain of sand may be seen through the transparent
water at the depth of several fathoms. The interior of the island is pleasant ;
it is a wood intersected in all directions by footpaths, and dotted with cleared
spots, where you meet with isolated houses. Unlike the generality of coral
islands, when you advance only a few steps from one shore, and then reach
the opposite, it occupies a large space, on which fine bread-fruit trees havo
sufficient room to form a sort of park. It occupies the N.E. angle of the group,
and is of an irregular triangular form, three-quarters of a mile in diameter.
Its North extreme is in lat. 7° 23' 30" N., long. 143° 57' E.
Palliou /«/an(/ extends from its S.E. extremity in a nearly true South direc-
tion, and is nearly connected with Jtaour Island, the south-easternmost of the
group, the two together being 1 i mile in length.
On the western side of Kaour, off the North part of which the Siniav%.it an-
chored, are four or five artificial harbours, such as had not been seen in any
other part of the Carolines. A jetty of large stones ran out for 100 yards into
the sea, and at each side of its extremity another line of stones, projecting at
an angle of about 60°, so that the whole has something the form of an anchor.
From the South end of Ilaour the reef projects nearly half a mile ; and between
EAUEir I K— PORAULEP.
1003
>u/«ii, bj
but the
it and Tagoilap Island, 2 miles to the W.N.W., is Motogottu Met, which is
very smnll, and, like all the rest, surrounded by a reef, so that the anchorage
in the eastern group has two entrances, one on oach side of Motogomu.
Felalutt or Falalit Island, the S.W. of the group, lies 2 miles to the 8.W.
of Tngoilap. Between it and Motogozeu there are some detached coral patches.
The reef runs to the N.W. three-quarters of a mile from Folalisse, leaving n
navigable opening into the Ugoon between it and Falulap or Faluellap, a small
islet, one of a group which extends N.N.W. and North, Ifmile, to Oulemeray,
the N.W. island of the group. Thence the chain is continued through Seliap*
and some smaller islands to E.S.E., to Farailesse, between which and Lanya-
liifaraiU is the very narrow but navigable channel before alluded to, forming
a northern entrance to the lagoon.
Captain Cheyne says — This group is well inhabited by a light copper-
complexioned race, who, although friendly in appearance, should not be trusted,
llicir weapons consist of Spanish knives, spears, clubs, slings, and stones.
Their canoes are similar in shape to the proa of the Mariana Islands. They
perform voyoges to Guam, and the other Caroline Islands in them. Their food
consists of cocoa-nuts, bread-fruit, taro, bananas, sugar-cane, and fish. Ships
holding intercourse with these natives should not allow any of them on deck.
Dr. Oulick says the population was about 600.
EATJBIPIK, or Eourypyg, is a small group, composed of only two islets,
lying on a reef 2^ miles long, N.V/. and S.E. Liitkc, who passed along its
northern side, had no communication with the inhabitants whom he saw stand-
ing on the beach, consequently could gather no particulars of it. It bos a
lagoon. Their existence was then established, though on Arrowsmith's chart
two islands are placed nearly in the same position, stated to have been seen by
Capt. Hunter, in 1791 ; there is no notice of this given in his narrative. Their
position is lat. 6" 40' N., long. 143° 10' E. Copt. Cheyne, who visited them
in September, 1844, calls them the Kama Islands. The population amounted
to about 150; now it is only about 50. The islets produce nothing but
cocoa-nuts.
Earl Dalhonsie Shoal, in lat. 8° 4' N., long. 145" 5' E., about 60 miles
N.E. by N. \ N. from Ifalik, has a depth of 19 fathoms on it, coral bottom.
70BATILEP (Farrojlap or Faitoilnp) was in reality first discovered by
Liitkc, Murch 28, 1828. Such an islund is stated to have been seen by Don
L. Torres, but it had been placed at hazard on all charts previous to its position
being fixed as lat. 8° 36' N., long. 144° 3G' £.* It is a sniall group, not more
than 4 miles in circuit, and composed of three islets, with a lagoon on heir
I
* It is rather tinKular that Ciipt. Wilkes iihouM state this island to be in lat. 10° 45' N.,
long. 146° 27' E., from tho chart*. Tho Flying Fi»h consuiiuently piisaed over thin position
without Bi'ving any indiciition of land: tho iama with Fois Uluii.—A'arrativ* e/lhs UniUd
Statei' Fiploring Exptdition, vol. v., p. 271.
wmm
1004
THB CABOLINB ARCHIPELAQO.
Ill
Wi>st side. The group cannot afford much for resouroos. Ito population was
about sixty able men in 1828. It is now uninhabited, according to Dr. Oulick,
who calls it Oardner Iilund.
ORIMES ISLAND. — From a report in the China Mail, Captain Qrimes, of
the ship yn. Captain
Jr.
'eral Manila
confessed to
?l8 ; the last
rhe tribe at
r, they now
ik says that
0.
bhe services
teide. The
r on it, was
iMce Hock.
It is high water, on fu'' nnd change, at 7" 15"; springs rise 4^ tt.— Captain
Bridge UiA Lieut. Ommanney, H.M.S. Etpiiifle, 1883.
Capt. Ilolcomb, an American, resident several years at Yap, and a navigator
in the neighbouring seas, states that typhoons and cyclonic storms are un-
known in Yap. The N.E. trade blows with tolerable freshness and steadiness
front the beginning of October to the end of May. The S.W. mon«)on pre-
vails during June, July, and August, but is frequently broken by short spells
of easterly winds. Rain falls occasionally all the yeitr round, but the rainy
season is between the beginning of Juno and the beginning of September.
The climate was described as being remarkably pleasant. Though hurricanes
are unknown, strong S.W. gales generally blow towards the close of the S.W.
monsoon season, late in August or September. This is also the season of very
light winds, when sailing vessels get about amongst the islands with di£Sculty.
Hunter Beef is a narrow coral reef, over which Capt. John Hunter passed
in the Waaitamheydt, July 17th, 1791. He had 16 fathoms water when on
it, and saw the bottom very distinctly. It extends nearly North and South,
and is about 23 miles N.N.E. of Yap. Lat. 9° 57^' N., long. 138" 22' E. It
was reported to lie 9 miles farther to the westward.
HGOU, or Matelotat Islands. — The first notice of these islands was given
by Yillalobos, who discovered them in 1545, but it would appear that they had
been previously visited, for the inhabitants approached holding up a cross, and
calling Buenat diaa Matelotat, from which their name was given. On Copt.
Liitke's chart they are called the Western Lamoliaour Group ; Dr. Qulick
says Latnoliork Islands ; and they have been called Goulou hlanda. They
were seen, in 1796, by Admiral Rainier, in the Suffolk, who gave them the
name of Spencer Keys.
The Ngoli or Matelotas group is composed of three (or five) small, low, and
wooded islands, connected by reefs and sand-banks. The two northern oni 21' E., whioh is very close to that of
Warwick Island. This position was passed over by H.ltl.8. Etpi^gU . 1883, but no signs
of shoal water were seen in the vidnity, and no bottom ooald be obtained with 50 &thoms
of line.
tends A miles
me is in lat.
the N.3. one,
he West and
uleU. There
igoon, but the
lost dangerous
laiiy weather,
s in cle»i' day-
luthem islot is
10 Arrccifos of
idrcs Clura and
them Palaos,
3 called PelUw.
which, though
I their inhabit-
h was lost upon
jer, "found the
11, and, in short,
nt which those
colour, plainly
country is well
Tcs with canoes,
uts, being their
u-e. They have
!he men go en-
iple towards the
E., requires oon-
b he saw what ap-
.N.E.andW.8.W.
position Msxgaoi
y close to that of
883, bnt no eig^s
Ml with 60 fikthoms
PALAU OR PELEW ISLANDS.
1000
English was nniformly courteous and attentive, accompanioU with a politeness
which surprised those who were the objects of it"
Capt. Cheyne says : — The Pallou natives ore quite a distinct raee ftom the
Caroline islanders. They are of a much darker complexion, less robust gene*
rally, and of smaller stature, but a great deal more intelligent, and polished in
their manners.
Capt. Robertson, in his memoir of 1705, has verj' justly censured the officers
of the Antelope for not having given, in any ])artof their narrative, the smallest
information, or " said one single word, whether it was possible for a ship to
anchor amongst, or r'nr, any of these islands;" nnd he observes thnt the only
piece of nautical infunnation he could find was the general description of their
limits, which ho has shown to be grossly erroneous. Capt. Robertson snys that
tho group " is a distinct range or chain of islands, extending 28 leagues in
length, N.N.E. and S.S.W., but in breadth very narrow; they are of moderate
height, small in sise, Lad in number almost innumerable. In the Vaniitlart,
1781, I had an opportunity of exactly determining their southern extremity
and eastern direction ; wc fell in with that side, and stood on to the N.N.W.,
thinking to weather them. After getting sight of tho northern islands, the
wind changed more northerly, which even prevented us from being able to
weather the island wc at first took to be the northernmost, but which we found
was not so ; therefore, judging it impracticable to get to windward, without a
great loss of time, we wore and stood to the southward, coasting along the
islands, at the distance of about 4 or 5 leagues from the East side ; rounded
tho southernmost, at the distance of 3 leagues ; from which wc took a departure,
allowing the latitude, by a good meridian altitude, to be G° 56' N. ; the
northernmost island I make to lie in lat. 8° 9" N. As to their longitude, I urn
not quite so certain ; there is such a discordancy in all tho accounts, that it is
impossible for me to determine exactly. I had expected much satisfactory and
authentic nautical information respecting these islands from Wibon's accounc
of them, published by Mr. Keato ; but in that I was sadly disappointed, there
being not one useful remark, throughout the whole book, that could possibly
be of the smallest utility to a seaman."
A sketch of the southern range of these islands, by Lieut. John Macluer,
was published by Mr. Dalrymple, in 1791, and in 1876 a partial survey of the
group was niado by Capt. Knorr, of the German war-vessel Herlha, from which
authorities some of the following description is derived.*
The circumstance by which this group and its history are made most familiar
to English readers, is the account of Prince Lee Boo, who was brought over
from thence by Capt. Wilson, after the wreck of the Antelope, August 9, 1783.
He was the second son of Abba lliuUe, the king, and on his arrival in EngUnd
North Pacific.
* Annalen der UydrograpliiOi 187C, Ucft vii.
Cn
I ;
i I
;t.
1010
PALAU OR PELEW ISLANDS.
eviiuMd such an aptitude for all civilized relatione, with luch an excellent dui«
position, that hie death, from imallpox, which occurred December 27, 1784,
when he was twenty years old, was felt throughout England with lively sensa-
tion. He was buried in Rotherhithe churchyard, near its N.W. ongle, he
hnTUg died in that parish. The East India Company erected the vault over
bis remains.*
In the Supplement to the Voyage of the Antelopt an account is given of the
Tisit of the ships Panther and Endeavour, which were sent out there with the
intelligence of Prince Leo Boo's death. In this portion, too, is the account of
Lieut. Macluer's residence in the group. The whole of these narratives place
the natives in a most amiable light. But there is a dark side to the picture ;
whether from the innate evil of the uncultivated savage, or, what is more pro-
bable, from the aggressions of foreign ships touching there, their fame has been
sullied by treachery. The Syren, whaler, Capt. Coffin, was nearly cut off here,
March 21, 1823, on passing the southernmost island. They came on board,
100 in number, apparently friendly ; but watching an opportunity, they at-
tacked the crew, and were only repulsed after desperate fighting, during which
most of the crew, thirty-seven in number, were wounded, and two officers
killed. In 1880, a British schooner was stated to have been pillaged by tho
natives.
Captain Ibargoitia remained under easy sail for five days, in 1801, off the
islands, and gives ns good an account of the natives, with whom he had con-
tinual communication, as does Capt. Wilson ; they most disinterestedly brought
off to him fish, cocoa-nuts, bananas, and various roots. Ho says that Coror
Islaud is the only one where you con anchor ; but ho was prevented doing so
by winds and currents.
Wind*. — The N.E. monsoon blows here from September or October to April
or May, usually between N.E. and East ; S.E. winds, however, ore not un-
common in the vicinity of the islands.
Revolviny Storm*, supposed to be the tail ends of typhoons, are said by
white residents to occur in the Pelew group at intervals of from 10 to 12 years.
They have been experienced as early as August, and may be encountered up
to November.— H.M.S. Espiigle, 1883.
The group, which consists of six greater and a number of smaller islands,
extends for a distance of 85 miles, about N. by E. and S. by W. ; its greatest
breadth is not more than 7 miles ; but taking into account the surrounding
reefs, this breadth would be trebled. There are several passages through this
reef, as shown on the chart. Tare and a few pigs and goats may be purchased
from the natives. The latter are about 3,000 in number.
* An Account of the Pelow laluub, from the Journula of Captain Henry Wilaon, by
George Keute, 4to., 1788; also a Supplement to the foregoing:, by J. P. Uovkin, M.A.,
4to., 1808.
KAJANOLE ISLES— BADELTHUAP.
1011
ezeellont du<
rmber 27, 1784,
ith lively Mnta-
N.W. angle, he
the vault over
\t is given of the
t thero with the
> the account of
narratives place
to the picture ;
hat is more pro-
nr fame has hecn
irly cut off here,
came on board,
rtunity, they at>
ng, during which
and two officers
pillaged by tho
in 1801, off the
lom he had con-
jrestedly brought
says that Coror
evented doing so
October to April
;ver, are not un-
Mns, are said by
>m 10 to 12 years.
3 encountered up
if smaller islands,
W. ; its greatest
; tho surrounding
ages through this
may be purchased
I Henry WiImd, by
r. P. Uockin, M.A.,
It appears, like Yap Island, to be of volcanic origin, nnd consists of six largo
blands, which, reckoning from tho southward, are called Angaur, Pililu, Eil
Malk (formerly called Earakong or Irakong), Urukthapcl, Korror, and Babel-
thuap, with numerous islets of smaller size, these latter sometimes rising {icr-
pendioularly to a height of 600 ft. Babelthuap is by far the largest island,
containing an area equal to all tho rest put together, 'ilic only island not
surrounded with coral reef is Angaur, which is detached, and the southernmost
of the group.
When the German war-vessel Hertha was herp in 1 876, the native popula*
tion was divided into twelve tr bes, the greater number residing in Babelthuap,
headed by a chief called Bupak. Of the existing kings, tho Erani of Korror,
and the Erani of Artingal seemed most potvcrful, but they were in constant
feud with each other, and failed to recognise the supreme power of the Spanish
Government. The principal occupation of the men, when not at war, is fish-
ing ; the women cultivating the soil. The only export was trcpang, in exchange
for old guns, ammunition, hardware, blankets, ond spirits. Tortoise-shell of
late years has become scarce.
K^jangle Isles. — The northern limits of the group consist of four or five
small islands, the largest of which is called Kyangle or Kajangle, about \\
mile long, and very narrow, ito centre in lat. 8° 2' 30" N., long. 134' 38' 30" £.
It was called Moore hit by Capt. Douglas, in 1788. Three others, off its
South end, arc called Arayonzet, Carapellas, and Korack, These islands are
surrounded by a reef, whose diameter is 4^ miles North and South, and nearly
5 miles East and West. Capt. Douglas, of the Iphiyenia, otates that he saw
two other low or sandy isles at 8 miles West of Moore Island, which he calls
Good Look-out Islands, portions of the reef which dry in Maelucr's chart.
Ngarnangl Beef, 11 miles to tho N.W. ^ W. of Kajangle, is of a most
dangerous character. It was formerly supposed to be very extensive, having
been reported to extend as fur as lat. 8° 45', and thence to the West farther
than the eye could reach. It is now stated to be of a triangular shape, about
6 miles in circumference.
Kossol Reef, the North point of which is about 2 miles South of the South
point of Kajangle Reef, is about 7 miles long, N.N.E. and S.S.W., and 2^
miles in greatest width, the passages North and South of it having depths of
10 to 20 fathoms, sand and coral bottom. At 4 miles westward of its South
end is a reef, apparently half the size of Kossol Reef, marked by heavy breakers.
The channel between Kossol Reef and the reef extending northward of Babel-
thuap Island is about 6 miles wide.
Babelthuap, Boubelthouap, or Baoheltaoh (the upper sea, in the Felew lan-
guage), is the largest of the Pelcw Islands, and is 20 miles long. North and
South. In its northern part, in lat. 1" 36^', is Mount Aremolunguj, 1,968 ft.
high, from the summit of which Lieut. Macluer could see the whole group.
Cape Artingal, its N.E. extremity, lies in lat. 1^ 40^' N., long. 134« 38^' £.,
"fi-- Tnms in it. It is 3^
.which is near the
sland, lies close to
imallest and south-
aas a tolerably high
!ef.
part of Urukthapel,
larrow openings in
the South angle of
Oluksakel, and the
T entrance channel,
coral patches in the
}f Malackan, in 15
iter. According to
»ier en the East side
1 off Channel Point,
lorth-eastwnrd of it,
I part carrying the
let directly through,
bluff East point of
ir, is a space nearly
' soundings, extend*
isg about 3 miles from the shore, on which there is good anchorage, but having
■omo oornl patches on its eastern itide. A ship may anchor in about 13 fathoms
with the following bearings, where she will have plenty of room to get under
weigh with any wind : — Mnlackan Peak, N. W. by N. i N. ; the southern
passage through the reef leading to Malackan Harbour, N.W. ^ W. ; and the
EMt extreme of the islands south-eastward of Babelthuap, N.E. ^ N. Inshore
of this the water deepens to 20 fathoms.
The channel between the South end of Babelthuap and Corror is three-
quarters of a mile wide, and is navigable from sea, round the East and North
■ides of Corror, to the King's village, near its western point, with a depth of
from 10 to 25 fathoms in it; but on account of a reef lying to U eastward of
Corror, fronting the entrance, and several coral patches within ;li . . reef, it is
too intricate a passage for a stranger to attempt.
The Island of Coror, although small, is the most imp' i ant of 'he group,
being the neat -f government. The king and chiefs arc most frien'Uy a\i.l hos-
pitable to I'ureigners, pan ticularly to the English, who will rccr Ivo every pro-
t 'on while within the limits of their jurisdiction. Abbn iiiulle, the king,
nominally claims sovereignty over the whole group ; but it is only by force of
arms that he is able to uphold his supremocy. The inhabitants of the northern
and eastern 'listricts of Babelthuap do not acknowledge his authoriiy, and are
often at war with Corur. Vessels trading here should not dispose of fire-arms
to any but the Coror people. — Cheyne.
In 1833, H.M.S. Eapilglt passed inside the reef North of Corror Island, and
anchored off the villages of Ackashar and Molegojok. The reefs arc very im-
perfectly known, and the coral heads inside them numerous, some of them
being exceedingly small. Off Ackashar, which is 1^ mile South of Molegojok,
there is a narrow and intricate passage through the reef, and about 4 miles
farther to the southward there is a good and safe opening.
Urukthapel, to the South of Corror, is of a very irregular form, its greatest
extent being 5| miles, E.S.E. nnd W.N.W. It is moderately elevated, very
rocky nnd barren, but covered with wood. The eastern shore is cliffy, and
from its eastern high bluff patches of reef extend to the southward, with good
passages between, until about a mile to the southward of the parallel of the
Ivuitli point of Eil Malk, where it becomes continuous for some distance,
reaching about 4 miles East of the S.E. point of Eil Malk. There is anchorago
within this reef on the East side of Eil Malk, but it must be diflScult to get
out of with a N.E. wind. The N.W. side of Urukthapel forms a bay, the shoro
of which is lined with small islets, and there ure also several in a bay on its
S.E. side. The passage between Urukthapel nndEilMaik is half n mile wide.
The South point of the former is in about lat. 7° 14' 80" 1%., long. 134° 28' E.
Urukthapel was not inhabited.
Eil Malk, the Errakong of the old chart, lies to the S.E. of Urukthapel;
iU S.E. point is in lat. 7° 11' 30' N., long. 134° 27' 30" £. The reet which
il
(
11
41
1014
PALAU OR PELEW ISLANDS.
surrounds the two islands on the East side forms to the N.E. of Eil Malk a
very excellent port, which has two entrances, one from the East, the other
from the West. The former is round the South end of Urukthapel, between it
and Eil Malk and some small islets ; but as it is not more than half a mile
broad, and is not well known, it cannot be recommended to large ships. But
to make up for this, there are to the West of the island two other passages
across the reef, which may be preferable to it ; the first, stated to lie in lat.
7° 14^', is three-quarters of a mile broad; the second, 1^ mile to the south-
ward of it, is much narrower than the former, but Lieut. Maclner passed it in
his vessel. On Capt. Knorr's chart only one passage is shown from the West,
in 7° 18' N.
Orolong or Aulong, a small island not more than 1^ mile in length, lies off
the N.W. point of Urukthapel. Macluer first anchored near this island, and
then steered to the S.E., along the coast of Urukthapel, to reach Errakong
Harbour. The centre of the island is ia lot. 7° 18' N., long. 134° 25' E.
At 3 miles southward of the S.E. point of Eil Malk is a good channel
through the reef, named Denies Passage. On its South side is the small
island of Earakong, between which and Pililu are three other small islands
lying near the edge of a continuous reef.
Pililu, or PeleUw, a pleasant and fertile island, lies 14 miles S.W. ^ S. from
Eil Malk, and is 3 miles long, N.E. and S.W. Between its North extremity
and Eil Malk, on the western reef, there lie, according to Macluer's chart,
several islands, one of which, named Akamokum, is separated by a reef, across
which is a passage not more than a quarter of a mile broad, through which it
is thought Macluer pnssed, as it is stated to be a good channel. At the South
extremity of Pililu, the reef which surrounds the group on the West side com-
mences, containing within its limits several islands, as mentioned above, which
appear to be connected with each other by reefs and shoals. The islet off the
South extremuy of Pililu is in lat. 6° 58' N., long. 134° 16J' E.
Northward of the parallel of Aulong Island, the western reef appears to be
continuous to lat. 7° 37', long. 134° 30', and here is a narrow channel named
Aremolunguj Passage, leading to the interior lagoon, with anchorage 'nside.
Mount Aremolunguj bearing E. f S. leads in, a curious peak appearing open
to the right of the summit. From hence there is a deep passage between the
reefs to Malackan and Korror. At 3 miles farther northward is Woodin Pas-
sage, and at the North extremity of the reef off Babslthuap is Kavasak Passage,
leading to the southward.
Angaor, the south-westernmost island of the Pelew group, is low, and is '' *-
miles in length, N.E. and S.W., the channel which separates it from Pililu
being 5 miles broad, and safe, but there are no soundings, the two extremities
of the islands bebg steep-to. Capt. Ibargoitia, who beat through to the west-
ward with a westerly wind, could find no bottom even at a mile off the shore.
He seat off u boat to the South end of this island to procure water, but it could
'i
THE NORTH COAST OF NEW GUINEA, ETC.
1019
f Eil Malk a
ist, the other
el, between it
in half a mile
ships. But
ther passages
to lie in lat.
to the south-
r passed it in
om the West,
ngth, lies off
is island, and
ich Errakong
23' E.
;oad channel
' is the small
small islands
not approach within 2 cables, on account of the shallowness and the surf. The
natives attempted to serve them, by bringing some off in their canoes by means
of the casks, which were carried half a mile into the woods ; but they brought
but little, and that not good.
Capt. Ibargoitia, who calls this island Niaur, determined the latitude of its
S.W. point to be 6° 53' 55" N., long. 134° 31' E., but more recent observa-
tions place the islet close off it in lat. 6° 50', long. 134° 10'.
At 1^ mile to the West of the S.W. point of this island Lieut. Macluer found
a bank with 10 fathoms water ; and in 1806 the same commander, in the ship
Mangles, found a reef extending half a mile from this low sandy point ; but
Capt. Horsburgh, who passed close to the point in the Anna in the same year,
did not see it, so it was supposed not to exist.
Capt. McClellan, when passing around the South end of Angaur, at about
2 miles distant, saw breakers and a few black rocks show occasionally for
three-quarters of a mile off the South point, and also a few for a good half a
mile farther.
W. J S. from
rth extremity
eluer's chart,
a reef, across
>ugh which it
At the South
'^cst side corn-
above, which
e islet off the
appears to be
lanncl named
iorage 'nside.
pcaring open
between the
Woodin Pas-
isak Passage,
3W, and is -**■
t from Pililu
extremities
t to the west-
>ff the shore,
'fbut it could
The archipelagoes to the southward of the Caroline Islands, consisting of
the Solomon Islands, New Ireland, New Britain, the Admiralty Islands, &c.,
arc described in our Sodth Pacific Directory ; but as the northern coast of
New Guinea, although South of the Equator, may be considered as the southern
limit of the North Pacific, that coast ond the islands will be briefly alluded to
here.
Anchorite Isles, — Anachoretcs Island was discovered by Bougainville, Aug.
7, 1768, in lat. 0° 60' S., long. 145° 30' E. H.M.S. Alacrity visited this group
in 1874. I'hey are described as five or six in number, occupying a space of
about 2^ miles in a N.E. by N. and S.W. by S. direction; they are low and
flat, thickly covered with cocoa-nut trees, and connected to each other by the
reef. The noithern island is the largest, being about half a mile loag. Off the
North end o;" the group a tide-rip is caused by the strong current setting to
the westward around (he end of the reef. There is a boat entrance across the
reef, near one of the southern small islets ; the cances came out over it through
the surf. The water inside the reef appeared discoloured and shallow. No
anchorage was found.*
* Monks Islands (Lot Monjot). — Four saiall, low islands, which extend nearly 6 miles
i. an East and 'West direction. Maurello first saw them in 1781, and determined their
position to be in lat. 0* 67' S., long, (corrected) I4&* 41'. Capt. Hunter also saw them.
The assigned position «vas passed over by H.M.S. Alacrity, in 1874, without observinfj;
any sign of thcni from the mast-head. They must be the same as the Anchorite group.
The brignntine Cotran, in 1874, also passed over it without observing them,
•ir*^
LJJUL ? LJ y jI>-g
1016
THE NORTH COAST OP NEW GUINEA, ETC.
'■■ '
I
Th« nativei somewhat resemble the Chinese in features, being of a light
colour, with long, straight, black hair, which they wear closely rolled up on
the top of the head. They are well-built men, but apparently cunning and
treacherous.
Commerion Iiland. — Another low island was seen from the mast-head of
Bougainville's vessel, at 8 miles distant, and named Commerson Island. It is
15 miles W. by N. from the northernmost of the Anachoretes, and in lat.
0° 40' S., long. 145° 17'. Capt. von Schleinitz, of the German vessel Gazelle,
1875, found there were two islands, covered with large trees and cocoa-nut
palms ; the S.W. island is the larger of the two, and nearly flat.
Two small islands were reported, in 1877, on thcEquotor, in long. 146° E.,
each being about half a mile in extent, connected by a reef, uninhabited, and
covered with low trees.
Boudeuse Island was named by Bougainville after his ship, August 9, 1768.
It is low, and in lat. 1° 26' S., long. 144° 34' E.
L'Echiquier (the Chess-board), so named by Bougainville, consists of a large
collection of islets. D'Entrecasteaux placed upwards of thirty on his chart,
but states that it is probable that in the North part of it many were not seen,
lliey are only a series of low, flat islets, covered with wood, all appearing to be
connected by reefs. The South point is in lat. 1° 40' 30" S., long. 144° 3' E.
In 1883, observations made on H.M.S. Espiegle placed their N.E. extreme in
lat. 1° 6', long. 144° 30', and the N.W. extreme in lat. 1° 3', long. 144° 24'.
This group is enclosed by a narrow reef, through which there are several
passages, the one chiefly used being on the N.E. side. During the visit of the
schooner Franz, in 1872, the number of islands of the group counted were
fifty-three. The natives, amounting to about 800, are of a dark copper colour,
with long stringy hair, and are frequently at war with the Hermit islanders.
Lob Eremitanos, or Hermits, were seen by Maurelle when 24 miles distant.
They are described by D'Entrecasteaux as being high in the N.W. part, and
seemed to leave considerable intervals, but, on a closer approach, they terminate
in low lands, and arc enclosed in a very narrow belt of sand, within which is a
large space of still water. They are inhabited ; the natives came off in canoes,
and apparently were friendly.
The group consists of seventeen islands, suiToundcd by a large reef, the ex^
teriur limits of which extend about 10 miles North and South, and 13 miles
East and West, and stretch about 6 miles from the shore of the largest island.
It was examined by the officers of H.M.S. Alacrity, in 1874.
Loof Island, about 500 ft. high, lies near the centre of the group, and is the
highest land in the vicinity. There are two native towns, one on Loof, and
one on Geloon Island. Pimi, the N.E. islet, is in lat. 1° 28' 60" S., long.
145" 6' 45 " E.
There are five passages through the reef; the N. W. passage, the broadest,
is about 1 mile wide, the anchorage generally used being on the North side of
THE NORTH COAST OF NEW GUINEA.
1017
Loof Island. The North postage lies N.W. by W., 4 or fi miles from Tet or
Zet, a small island lying off the North extreme of Loof Island ; this passage is
narrow, with generally a confused swell setting into it.
Alacrity Anchorage, formed by the reef on the N.E. side of Hermit Islands,
affords good shelter in 8 to 10 fathoms, sandy bottom ; there are two passages
leading into it, the northern named Coeran, and the southern Sabbcn Passage.
Coeran Passage, about 1^ cable wide, is separated from Sabben Passage by a
reef about 400 yards in extent, to the N.N.W. of which is the anchorage ; the
inner part of Sabben Passage is contracted by a shoal with 3 ft. water on it.
At the anchorage the only tide that is felt is for about four hours at low water,
when it runs nearly 3 knots an hour in a south-westerly direction, and there
appears to be only one tide in 24 hours.
It would not be advisable to attempt either of these passages under sail
during the strength of the tide, without a commanding breeze, as the tide-rips
render it di£Bcult to discern the reefs ; and shoals may exist that have not been
seen. — Lieut. F. W. Sanders, H.M.S. Alacrity.
Matty and Durour Islands are two small, flat islands, discovered by Carteret,
September 19, 1767. According to D'Entrecasteaux, the latter is in lat
1» 33' 40" S., long. 143° 12' 30', and the other in lat. 1°46'0" S.,long. 142" 56'.
Carteret places them in lat. 1° 43' 21", long. 143° 2' E.
Tiger Island is a discovery of Capt. Bristow, in 1817, and communicated by
him to Mr. Furdy. It is about 6 or 7 miles in length. East and West, and in-
habited by a ferocious rac«> of savages. Lat. 1° 45' S., long. 142° 2' K
THE NORTH COAST OF NEW GUINEA.
We cannot here enter into any general description of this extensive island,
or of the explorations which have been made by various European travellers,
a full account of which will be found in the " Proceedings of the Boyal
Geographical Society."* The S.E. coasts are described in our South Paciiio
Ocean Directory, and the following brief description will connect that with
the coast described in the Indian Archipelago Directory. The N.W. coast,
westward of Humboldt Bay, was surveyed by Captain Zwaan, of the Dutch
vessel Soerahaya, in 1875-6.
On April 4th, 1883, Mr. H. M. Chester, the resident magistrate at Thursday
Island, hoisted the British flag at Port Moresby, and formally took possession,
in the name of H.M. Queen Victoria and of the Government of Queensland, of
all that portion of New Guinea and the adjacp it islands, lying between the
meridianti of 141° and 156° E., thus including the Louisiade Archipelago. In
* In Fart 2 of Volume I. of that Society's Supplementary Papers, will be found a
valuable oompilalion, entitled " A Bibliography of New Guinea," by the late Mr. £. C.
Rye, F.Z.S., Librarian, 1884.
North Pacijio. - . ^^
1018
THE NORTH COAST OF NEW GUINEA.
i;i
!l '■
. May, 18R5, an arrangement was come to between Great Britain and Germany,
by which the North coast, between Mitre Rock, in lat. 8" S., and the Dutch
boundary, in long. 141° E., was ceded to Germany, and this is now the terri«
tory of the Gernuin New Guinea Company. At the same time a German pro-
tectorate was established over New Britain, New Ireland, and the islands in-
cluded in the area between long. 141° and 154*^ E., on the Equator, and the.
line of lat 8° S. to the coast of New Guinea.
The natives of this coast belong to the Melanesian or Papuan race. Althongli
in many places wild, suspicious, and excitable, yet, when treated with taot and
patience, veiy friendly relations have been established with them.
DAMPIEB STRAIT separates New Guinea from New Britain, and is de-
scribed .a our South Pacific Directory. The best channel through it is on the
New Guinea side, keeping the beach in sight, 6 or 7 miles distant.
Cape Xing William is difficult to define, the coast rounding gradually and
preserving its steepness. The part taken for Cape King William is a slightly
projecting point, with a village close to the northward of it, in about lat.
6° 6' S., long. 147° 40' E.
Mount Cromwell, about 8 miles S.W. of Cape King William, rises from the
eastern part of the immense Finisterre Range to a height of 7,700 ft., and takes
the shape of a blunt cone, apparently covered with tropical forest. Basilisk
Gorge is a huge break in the mountains, about 6^ miles north-westward of
Mount Cromwell. No bottom with 100 fathoms of line could be found any-
where along this coast, at distances varying from 1^ to 3 miles from the shore,
and the water had the appearance of being deep close up to the beach.
Mount Disraeli is a sharp, remarkable cone, 1 1,000 ft. high, situated in about
lat. 5° 58' S., long. 146° 29' E. Mount Gladstone, also conical, but of blunter
shape than Mount Disraeli, was found to be about 11,400 ft. high. It is in
about lat. 5° 56 30" S., long. 146° 24' 30" E. These were the two highest
peaks of the Finisterre Range sighted by H.M.S. Basilisk, 1874. From long.
146° 30' E. the coast, steep-to, continues its W. by N. ^ N. trend for about 32
miles to Cape Rigny.
ASTROLABE BAT was not visited by H.M.S. Basilisk, but from informa-
tion supplied by M. Miklukho-Maclay, an accomplished Russian eth '•ologist
and traveller, who had stayed there for about twelve months, it was ascertained
that the bay has about 83 villages around its shores, containing in all about
4,000 inhabitants, among whom as many as twelve dialects were spoken. Ga-
himt River flows into the South side of the bay. The inhabitants were generally
friendly.
Astrolabe Ba^, so named after D'Urville's vessel, lies between Capet Rigni
on the East, and Duperri on the N.W., about 24 miles apart, the depth of the
gulf being about 18 or 20 miles. The Finisterre Mountains become lower when
near the bay, which is completely surrounded by a line of moun^ns, even in
the bight of the bay. Capt. B. Moore visited the bay in November, 1878, in
ASTROLABE BAY— DAMPIER ISLAND.
1019
lermany,
e Dutch
he terri'
man pro-
lands in-
and the
Altltongh
taot and
ind 18 de-
t is on the
dually and
a slightly
about lat.
es from the
., and takes
Basilisk
westward of
found any-
n the shore,
each.
ited in about
ut of blunter
;h. It is in
two highest
From long,
for about 32
■om informa-
1 eth -'.ologist
18 ascertained
in all about
spoken. Oa-
ten generally
Cape$ Rigni
B depth of the
le lower when
i^ns, even in
aber, 1878, in
charge of the barque Courier, and speaks of the anchorage in the N.W. comer
OS being of very doubtful utility.
Port Constantitu, at the head of Astrolabe Bay, is about 2 cables in diameter,
with anchorage in about 28 fathoms two-thirds of a cable southward of the
North point, which is in lat. 6" 29' 63" S., long. 145° 46' 8" E.
At 16 miles northward of Port Constantino is an indentation in the coast,
with some islands off it, forming Friedrich Wilhelm and Prinz Heinrick
Harbours, which can be approached by the channel southward of Fischel
Island, the southern and largest, on the West side of which there is anchorage
in 1 1 fathoms. Friedrich Wilhelm Harbour is an inlet extending to the south-
ward, at three-quarters of a mile westward of Fischcl Island, and affording
sheltered anchorage in 10 or 11 fathoms. Prince Heinrich Harbour lies half
a mile northward of the entrance of the latter, and affords anchorage in 7 or 8
fathoms, sheltered by several islands and reefs.
Cape Croisillet, a well-marked promontory, lies 10 or 11 miles North of Cape
DuperrS.
After passing Cape Bigny, the Basilisk steered about N. by W. i W., pass«
ing mid-channel between Cape Croisilles and Dampier Island, thence along the
N.E. coast of New Guinea, outside Yuloan Island and the Schouten Isles, call-
ing in at Humboldt Bay ; after which a course was steered to pass about 20
miles northward of Cape D'Urville, and North of the Mysory Islands, close
South of Providence Island, through Dampier and Pitt Straits, to Amboyaa.
Long Island, in lat. 5° 20' S., long. 147° 10' E., is divided by a deep valley
Into two parts ; it is apparently uninhabited. The southern portion rises to a
high conical peak, estimated at from 2,000 to 4,000 ft. high, which D'Urville
named Cerisy ; the northern consists of three peaks grouped together, and not
reaching to quite the same height as the southern. Reaumur Peak, at its
North end, appears to have been a volcano. A reef extends off the western
point of Long Island. In January, 1885, breaking reefs were observed from
^^ M.S. Dart, 10 to 14 miles S.W. of Long Island, one of which had a bank of
e«nd and coral on it.
Crown Island, so named by Dampier, lies about 7 miles north-westward o?
Long Island. It is about 4 or 5 miles in circumference, and has rather a level
summit, 2,000 ft. high.
Sir R. Rich's Island of Dampier lies to the N.Et of Cape Duperr6. It is
of a similar nature to those already described, and resembles more particularly
Crown Island, but is a little larger and not quite so high.
In the space between Rich and Crown Islands breakers were sighted by
Capt. W. Symington, S.S. Hankow, March 10, 1877 ; he placed the position
of the centre of the breakers in lat. 4° 55' S., long. 146° 60' E., and estimated
their extent at about a mile each way.
Dampier Island, which is nearer the coast, being 6 or 7 miles N.E. of Cape
Croisilles, is certainly not less than 5,000 ft. high, in the form of a cone, pointed
1020
THE NORTH COAST OF NEW GUINEA
\'i
r
I
at the Bumixiit, but enlarged at the base to 36 or 40 miles in eiroamference.
Although it appeared capable of cultivation, no sign of inhabitants was seen
from the Astrolabe.
Franklin Bay is 32 miles N.W. of Cape Croisilles, and is limited on the
North by Cape Qourdon, which forms a well-marked promontory, though
slightly elevated. In general, in proceeding to the westward, the coast sensibly
decreases in height.
Vuloan Island is an immense cone, clothed with the most beautiful yegeta-
tion, and is not more than 12 miles in circumference. It is tolerably well fixed
in position, and nothing can render navigation more simple and easy than these
peaks planted on the surface of the ocean, serving as beacons for ships to steer
by in passing along an almost unknown coast. At 2 miles to the N.W. of Vul-
can Island is Aris Island, very much smaller, but still very high.
Pallas Eeef^oB reported, in 1878, by a barque of that name, to be situated
in lat. 3° 37' S., long. 145° 40' E., or about 50 miles &c:a the coast of New
Guinea, and the same distance eastward of the Schouten Islands. The Pallaa
passed close to the reef, the depth upon which was estimated at a few feet.
. Sehouten Islands, which lie off this part of the coast, are eight in number,
extending upwards of 100 miles to the westward, and appear to be uninhabited.
They are very high and conical, which denote an ignccus origin. Their height
contrasts singularly with the low elevation of the land of New Guinea near
them. They are covered with wood, and the mainland, very low near the sea,
is mountainous within. Mr. Powell found good anchorage pretty doss to the
shore of Broken Water Bay. The natives were very timid.
Victoria Bay, on the western side of If Urville Island, in long. 143° 28' E.,
was visited and surveyed by Sir E. Belcher, in H.M.S. Sulphur, July, 1840.
It is of nearly circular shape, the entrance, about 6 cables wide, being on the
N.W. side ; it is about 1 \ mile in length. North and South, by about 7 cables
in breadth, and has regular depths, varying from 9 to 30 fathoms, over a bottom
of tough dark mud, affording a snug and picturesque ancboraje. Streams of
fresh water abound, and wood is plentiful. The natives were friendly.
' At 42 miles West of Bertrand Island, the westernmost Schouten Island, is a
group of islands and lagoon reefii, westward of Pussier Point, lying very near
the coast, named Sainson, Faraguet, and Dudemaine Islands. The two first
are low, and covered with large trees. Dudemaine Island only has a small
hill on its western end. of 100 or 200 ft, in height, which may be distinguished
at a considerable distance among the surrounding low land.
At this part the belt of low land which lines the coast seems to form a largo
valley between two chains of very high mountains. This configuration would
lead to the presumption that a considerable river would flow through this valley.
The coast of New Guinea, beyond these, offers nothing agreeable in its aspect.
At one part it rises in steep cliffs, and breakers seem to extend a mile off the
shore. Far in the interior the summits of very high raountnins may bo seen.
IMI
wm
HUMBOLDT BAY.
i021
rence.
Men
on the
liough
Insibly
regeta-
jl fixed
In these
I steer
lofVul-
At 7 or 8 milet in the interior Mount Byr%*$ raises its double peak above the
clouds, in long. 141° 15'. The Aitrolahe ■mt» heredrifted within half a league of
the land, and from the calm was obliged to anchor before a small eoTe.
While lying near Mount Eyries, fifteen canoes, each carrying from three to
eight natives, put off and surrounded D'TIrrille's ship. There was not the
slightest doubt of their hostile intentions. From this part of the coast the im-
posing summit of Mount BougainvilU becomes visible in the West, raising its
head a considerable height above the surrounding mountains. The boundary
between the Dutch and German portions of New Guinea lies close eastward of
Mount Bougainville.
Humboldt Bay, thus named by Captain D'Urville, lies to the West oi this
mountain. It penetrates deeply into the coast, particularly to the S.E. Its
opening was about 4 miles in width. On one side the Cyclopi Mountain*, and
on the other Mount Bougainville, stand like gigantic sentinels, pointing out the
entrance to Humboldt Bay to the navigator at the distance of 60 miles. To the
West of Mount Cyclops the coast descends with a gentle slope to the beach,
and has some landing spots, with points more or lees projecting.
Humboldt Bay, in lat. 2° 40' S., long. 140° 42' E., may be recognised with-
out much difficulty. Point Bonftand on the eastern side being bold, about 700
feet high, and cliffy on its northern side. The Batiliik struck soundings in 4f
fathoms in entering, over a bottom of sand and coral, when the following were
the bearings taken :— Point Bonpland, S. 40° £. ; Point Caillie, N. 35° W. ;
and a point at the head of the bay resembling a peninsula, S. 72° W. Close to
this position anchorage was found in 16 fathoms. An uneasy swell sets into
the bay, breaking heavily upon the beach, which has a wild, dreary aspect.
The natives were very dark-skinned, bold, and noisy.
Caillie Point, the North entrance point of Humbolt Bay, is a promontory
500 ft. high, projecting in a S.S.E. direction from the mainland, to which it is
joined by a low neck. Challenger Cove, at the N.W. part of Humboldt Bay,
is formed by Caillie Point and a point 1^ mile to the S.W. of it.
H.M.S. Challenger, in February, 1875, anchored in 19 fathoms, with Caillie
Point bearing N.W. by N. ^ N., distant about 1| mile, but the swell from the
northward causing the ship to roli considerably, an anchorage was obtained in
Challenger Cove, in 36 fathoms, stiff clay, with the South extreme of Caillie
Point bearing E. f N. ; Observation Islet, South, distant 1^ cable ; and Village
Islet, S.W. i S. ; but the northern part of Challenger Cove appeared to afford
n better anchorage, being landlocked, with apparently no sign of shoal water ;
it was, however, not examined.
Matterer Bay, which lies about 42 miles westward of Humboldt Bay, is
rather deeper than any preceding. To the West of this inlet a low point,
covered with trees. Point Brama, projects considerably to the N.W. ; and
beyond the coast again recedes, forming Walckenaer Bay. In the rear of these
is u high luouutnin (Mount Benoistj. At 50 miles to the West is another
f-
I
i
It '
1022
THE NORTH COAST OF NEW GUINEA.
lofty chain, to which D'Unrillc gare the name of Gauttier Mountaini. after
the great French hydrogropher. Mr. Powell says the coast between Humboldt
Bay and Point D'Urrille is for the most part high, rocky, and rugged, though
tnuch broken into bays and creeks, but parts (and these appear to be the mouths
of streams) are low and swampy, having thick forests of mangrove bushes.
° " In front of, and at 2 or 8 miles distance from, the low beach in front of the
Oauttier Bange, several small islands followed each other. The largest, Merat
Island, is not more than 8 or 4 miles in circumference. At the distance we
passed them, about 8 miles, they appeared to be covered with clumps of cocoa-
nut and other trees. At 20 miles farther are the Ariptoa hland$t three small
islets; when 12 miles distant they appeared as a single island, moderately ele-
▼ated and well woodea. The chain of the Gauttier Mountains here terminates
on the coast. Farther to the West the land of New Guinea is very low, and
can hardly be distinguished at the distance of 12 or Ifi miles. The great Rivtr
Amhemoh or Reehuaten debouches here, forming a large delta, and sending a
large volume of turbid water into the.sea.
** I consider, then, that it is a positive fact that these waters proceed from
some considerable river, which discharges itself into the sea on this part of the
coast. Lougainville observed the same thing in this part, and from it drew the
same deduction. Precisely in this part of New Guinea the land forms a low
point. Point D'UrviUe, very far advanced into the sea, and everything tends to the
belief that it is formed by the outlet of a considerable stream." — M. D UrvilU.
In 1884, Mr. D. F. van Braam Morris, Dutch Resident of Temate, ascended
this river for some distance in the steamer Havik. He entered by the most
northerly mouth, in lat. 1° 25^' S., long. 137° 56' E., the entrance of which
was 4 cables wide, with a depth of 4 to 7 fathoms in it. The steamer ascended
against a strong current for about 60 miles, when the depth suddenly shoaled
to '2\ fathoms, and it was thought that even a steam-launch could not penetrate
much higher than this. They met with no opposition frem the natives. The
numberless openings on the East coust of Oeelvink Bay, between lat. 1° 20"
and 2° 30' S., are, with the exception of the Aiberan and Kei Bivers, but out-
lets from inland lagoons. — (See Proeetdingt of the Royal Geographical Soeiettff
March, 1885, pp. 172-7.)
Point D'Hrville is very low and projecting, probably islands; according to
the observations made in the Astrolabe by M. Jacquinot, it is in lat. 1° 24' S.,
long. 137'' 47' E. Stephen Islands are placed off it in lat. 0" 20' S., long.
V3T> 35' E., a doubtful position.
OEELVINK BAT is the very extensive bay of which Point D'Urville may
be said to be the easternmost point. We shall not describe it here, but shall
terminate our notice of New Guinea with Port Dorei or Dory, at the N.W.
point of the bay. Off its mouth are some very large islands, Jobi Island^
Mysory or Schouten Islands^ and others, all very imperfectly known.
The Italian traveller, Dr. Bcccari, who visited this bay in 1875, reports that
GEELVINK BAY.
1023
rtlairu. after
n Humboldt
ged, though
I the moutha
bushes,
t front of the
rgest, Merat
distance we
ipe of coooa-
, three small
derately ele-
« terminates
ry low, and
) great Itiver
id sending a
roceed from
is part of the
t it drew the
forms a low
; tends to the
/. Z>' Urville.
ite, ascended
by the most
ce of which
icr ascended
enly shoaled
lot penetrate
atives. The
lat. 1° 20'
ers, but out-
Meal Society,
according to
lat. 1" 24' S.,
20' S., long.
•'Urville may
ere, but shall
at the N.W.
Jobi Island^
wn.
reporUi that
it is smaller than Is shown upon the Admirnlty charts, and docs not extend so
far to the southward. The village of Waisaru, situated at the head, appa^
rently upon the most southern part of its shores, was found to be in lat. 3° 12' S.,
instead of 3° 45' S., as has hit?aerto been supposed. — Oeographical Magazine,
February, 1876, p. 39.
Point Oeelvink lies about 50 miles south-westward of Point D'Urville, and
here, perhaps, the immense bay of the same name may be said to commence.
West of this is the extensive island of Jappen or Jobi, and between is a smaller
one, which nearly doses the passage, and was named by D'Urville, after one
of his officers, Quoy Island.
Krudu or Quoy Island is 8 miles long. East and West, and moderately ele-
vated, well wooded, and pleasing in appearance. A channel of only 3 miles in
breadth separates it from Point Geelvink, formed by a moderately high hill. A
channel of the same breadth separates it from the West end of Jobi, which
descends in a very gentle slope to the sea.
Trattort Island* lie to the North of Jobi, and off the East point of Mysory
Islands, forming the North side of the Strait of Jobi or Geelvink. They are
small and low.
Jobi or Jappen Island, which lies in the opening of Geelvink Bay, accord-
ing to M. D'Urville's chart is about 90 miles in length, lying nearly East and
West. The Astrolabe only sailed along its northern side. The land on this
coast is high, steep, and covered with woods, without any openings. High
mountains form the central ridge, some peaks rising to a height of 2,500 feet.
Thi.i aspect is preserved in the most uniform manner, and throughout its whole
extent it did not appear to offer a single cove or creek fit to receive a larg^
ship. The mountains of Jobi decrease in altitude on nearing its western exr
treme, and its West cape is separated from Bultig by a channel 6 miles in
breadth.
Aniui Earbonr, on the South side of Jobi, at about 25 miles from its Wes^
end, is formed by Kaiari Island, which is about 1 mile in extent, lying 2 to 3
cables off shore. The town has a population of about 3,000, and is built on
the coral reefs on the North side of the harbour. Excellent water may be ob«
tained at the waterfall abreast the West end of the island, where there are
two trading stations, but no supplies. The barboiir is approached from the
south-westward by a channel, 4 cables wide between the rocks, between Kaboi
and Miosansus Island, in which there is no bottom at 10 fathoms. There is
anchorage in 9 to 12 fiithoms, with the North end of Kaiari bearing East ; and
also abreast the waterfall.
Bultig or Hump Island is hilly, of an irregular form, and 10 or 12 miles in
length, but not more than 4 miles broad. Three rounded islets, called the
Three Sisters, lie near its East point, and before its West point are two similar
islets, named by D'Urville the Brothers. Long Island is tolerably large, and
the land in general is but little elevated. Manim Island lies off its East point.
1034
THE NORTH COAST OP NEW GUINEA.
Sehontan or Myiory laUndl oonsist of two large islands, divided by a
nirrow channel, the eastern named Biak, and the western Koredo. Some
small islands lie off the South side of the latter, and at 10 miles N.W. by
N. t N. from its West point is Mofia or Providence Inlet. At 14 miles N.W.
of Mofia ia Meekaroar at Danger lelet, with a large coral reef extending
about 10 milea N.N.W. of it. About 75 miles E. by N. \ N. from Danger
Islet is a bank of 4} fbthoms, in lat. 0° 2' S., long. 136° 16' E.
Port Doroi, Dorerei, or Dory, is situated immediately to the South of Cape
Mamori, whieh forms the westernmost and outer point of the entrance of tho
great Bay of Oeelvink.
The harbour is easy of access, and is entered by a channel 3 miles in length,
formed on one side by the peninsula of Mamori, and on the other side by the
islands of Mana-Souari and Matmapi at Miormapi, and two banks, which are
awash. The harbour itself is not more than half a mile deep, and 200 yards
in breadth, with a regular depth of 10^ fethoms, sand and shells. Notwith-
standing the confined extent of this basin, ships of any class may calculate on
a safe anchorage, and sheltered from the winds and swell from the offing. But
as it is swTOunded by deep forests, and at the bottom of the harbour there are
many mud-banks, often dry, a long stay here would doubtless be unhealthy for
Europeans, eapecially in the rainy season. The best anchorage is in 14 fathonu,
northward of the missionary house on Mana-Souari.
The inhabitants of DoreY are distributed in several villages on the borders
of the sea ; and there are two others on the islands Mana-Souari and Masmnpi.
The village on the former is named Mansinian, with a church and a school,
and here the chief Dutch missionary resides. The total population of DoreK
cannot exceed 1,500 souls, all of whom recognise the sovereignty of the Sultan
of Tidore, who is under the suzerainty of the Dutch.
The result of the observations of M. Jacquinot has placed the Observatory
at DoreK in lat. 0" 51' 43" S., long. IZS° 59' 52" E. Later observations place
the North end of Mana-Souari Island in lat. 0° 54' S., long. 134° 7' E.
The following islands are but little known, and some only vaguely placed on
the charts. The few particulars which are given are derived (unless other-
wise stated) ftam our " Oriental Navigator," 1809, pp. 634—641.
• ST. DAVID I8LAHDS, Pedan, Onata, or Freewill Islands.— Tbia group,
about which there is some confusion in the old charts, was seen in the Warwick,
East Indiaman, in February, 1761. They were represented as two distinct
islands, but it is probable that one of them is intended for the Asia Islands.
Th^ are very low, are four in number, and with an islet or rock between the
North and East islets. The smallest in extent seems to be the highest, and
all of them are well covered with cocoa-nut trees, like most other coral atolls.
CARTERET UERF- HELEN REEF.
1025
iWdcd by •
redo. Some
les N.W. by
miles N.W.
ef extending
firom Danger
outb of Cape
trance of tho
les in length,
r side by the
ks, which are
nd 200 yards
Is. Notwith-
r ealonlate on
le offing. But
30ur there are
unhealthy for
in 14 fiithoms,
>n the borders
and Masmapi.
and a school,
ition of DoreK
y of the Sultan
le Observatory
irvntions place
°7'B.
[uely placed on
(unless other-
11.
. — ^This group,
Qthe Warwick,
IS two distinct
! Asia Islands,
ik between the
e highest, and
er coral atolls.
I
It is about 14 miles long, North and South, and of an oval fthnpo ; tho «ur-
rounding reef projects al>out a mile from thu North and South sides, but not
so far on the others. It is well inhabited. The centre is in about lat. 0° 57' N.,
long. 134° 21' £.
Carteret Beef was passed by Capt. Carteret in the Swallow, in 1767. He
passed between the reef and Evening hUt to the S.W. of it, nnd placcH it in
the doubtful position, 2" 54' N., 134'' 12' E. It is possible that it mny be tho
same as the next, as a depth of 2,UU0 fathoms has been found in this locality.
HELEN REEF was discovered in the East India Cotpnany's ship Helen,
Capt. Scton, in 1794. He says : — It is a very dangerous shoal, lying W.N.W.
and E.^.£., about 6 miles ; the East end appeared a dry sand, but on the West
part there were rocks a very little above water; no ground with 100 fathoms
of line 3^ miles due South of a very conspicuous port of it. I am iuclinvd to
think that the reef stretches a good way to the northward, as I saw from tlio
mast-head the appearance of breakers running from the West end to tho north-
eastward. From the ccutru of tho reef, to which I gave the name of Helen
Shoal, Lord North Island bears N. 75° W., 40 miles.
llie best account we have of it is furnished by Cap^iin Pcdcrsen, of tiio
Cordelia Beriun, who came to it in October, 1858, to recover the cargo of tea
from the Lady Raglan, wrecked on its West side.
The reef is above 16 miles long in a N.N.E. and S.S.W. direction, nnd 8
miles wide at its broadest part, which is near its southern end. Its interior is
a basin of deep water, encircled by a narrow belt of dark heads of coral, against
which the ocean swell dashes with great fury. In sailing round the reef no
break was seen through its margin, or foul ground along it, except at its south-
eastern point, where white or shallow water extended half a mile outside the
breakers, and where there appeared to be a narrow opening into the interior.
A rock, with 2 or 3 fathoms over it, was discovered lying West about a mile
from the wreck of the Lady Raglan, and North about three-quarters of a mile
from the extreme western part of the reef.
As no anchorage was found along the reef, the water being ocean deep cIohc-
to, the Cordelia Berian remained off it under sail from October 4 to November
11, her boats bringing tea from the Lady Raglan. During this period the
weather was generally unsettled, with heavy squalls from the W.N.W., then
calms, which often placed the vessel in a critical position, the currents being
strong and irregular, sometimes setting at the rate of 2 knots to the eastward
(or towards the reef*), and at other times as strong to the westward. The
* The Cordelia Berian lying-lo on the West itide of tbe reef, where the Lady Saffian wm
wrecked.
North Paci/c. 6 p
1020
IST.ANDS NORTH OF NEW GUINEA.
month of October wm more IkTourable than November ; in the former the
wind WM tteadier trom the eouth-weatward, and fewer ealnu ; in the latter,
there were calms and baffling winda, and the •qualla were hesTy and the current
strong.
The tides ran strong over the reef, the flood to the eastward, the ebb to the
westward. The flood sometimes set with such force that the men could not
keep their footing in 1 foot of water. The boats were enabled ut times to get
across the barrier at the S.8.E. part of the reef when the tide was high, but
great cam had to be taken to aToid the sharp heads of coral, having 10 to 20
fathoms water close to them.
In light airs or in baffling winds a wide berth should be given to Helen
Reef, for the currents in its vicinity are variable and strong, and have occa-
sioned the loss of many vessels on it, and others have but narrowly escaped
being wrecked.
llie N.N.R. extreme is in about lat. 3<> 0' N., long. I31» 52' E. ; the S.S.W.
extreme in about lat. 2° 40' N., long. 131° 42 E.
TOBI, Lord North, or Neville hland, was seen by the ship Lord North, in
January, 1781, and was also seen in 1789 by the Raymond, and was cf>' >d
Neville Island from a man on board. It is 1} mile long, R.S.E. and WJ V^,
with a reef projecting from its East end, but is bold-to in other direct, us.
It is densely wooded, and had about 200 inhabitants, who came off in their
canoes, but they are bold, and not to be trusted. Lat. 3° 3' N., long. 131° 4' £.
MABIEBE, or Warren Haitinga Iiland, was first seen by the East India
Company's ship Carnarvon, Capt. Hutchinson, September, 1701. It is about
2 miles long, North and South, and a mile wide. Like other atolls, it is low
and well covered with cocoa-nut trees, especially in the northern part, but the
middle and southern parts are higher. It is inhabited by people resembling
Malays, who are very poor, and can afford no refreshments.
Cnpt. A. McClellan passed it in July, 1855, and found a detached rock off
it, although it had been supposed to be clear all round. A reef stretches over
a mile from both ends of Mari^re Island, with a rock a good mile off its N.N.E.
side, showing in the hollow of the sea as a round black islet, about the size of
a whale. Horsburgh expressly states that there is no danger near this island.
He places it in lat. 4° 19' 30' N., long. 132° 28' 30" B.
Capt. Milledge, of the Nourmahal, who sighted the island in 1872, says that
a reef with heavy breakers extends about half a mile from the North and South
ends of the island. There ia a smooth beiMih on the western side. Some ca-
noes came alongside, and the natives appeared to be a very inoffensive race.
I
I
AHVA, or Current Itland, was seen by the Carnarvon, Warwick, and
Princess Augusta, the China fleet returning in 1701. It is a ver}' small, low
SANSOnAL, Oil 8T. ANDUKW ISLANDS.
1027
mer the
t latter,
I eunreat
lb to the
ould not
ei to get
tiigh, but
10 to 20
to Helen
ave ocoa-
f escaped
lie S.8.W.
island, not more than half a mile in diameter, covered with troe^,, and sur-
rounded by breakers, which run out from its South end for 2 miles. Its posi-
tion may be taken, approximately, as 4" 30' N., long. 132° 4' E. It is Tcry
dangerous in the night, and is inhabited.
SAHSO&AL, or Si. Andrtw /«/an(/«, have been placed l°too far East on the
charU. Capt. Maury says that they are in lat. 5° 20' N., long. 132° 20' E. They
were discovered by Padilla, in 1710, are two in number, and said to be con-
nected and surrounded by a reef which is steep-to, and extends but a short'
distance from either island. Kodo-koputi, the southernmost and largest, is from
1 to 2 miles S.S.W. from SansomI, the northernmost of the two. They are
small, low, flat, and thickly wooded ; and may be seen about 12 or 14 miles off*.
There were about 200 inhabitants on the islands, and these occasionally visit
the Palau in their canoes. — Rrynoldt,
North, in
was cp' fd
1 W.l ^^,
direotivns.
iff in their
. 13l»4'E.
East India
t is about
it is low
irt, but the
resembling
d rock off
etches over
itsN.N.E.
the size of
this island.
|2, says that
and South
Some ca-
sive race.
jrwick, and
small, low
( 1028 )
CHAPTER XIII.
ISLANDS BETWET'N LAT. 10° AND 20° N., INCLUDING THE
MARIANA OR LADRONE ISLANDS.
II '
CLIPPEETON ISLAND was discovered, in 1705, by a companion of Dam-
pier's, Capt. Clipperton, who separated from him or. the coast of South America
to go to the Indies, in which passage he fell in with this rock or island. Its
position, as given, was not very far from the truth. Its possession is claimed
by Franco.
Captain Sir Edward Belcher is the first who made us acquainted with its
exact character, and the following is his description of it. He made it May
8th, 1839, at the distance of 15 miles, at the dawn of day ; and the sim's roys
playing on its nearest face, it had the appearance of a brig close hauled. — The
name, Clipperton Rock, certainly misled us, and had we made the point at
night, with a fair wind, would almost inevitably have severely damaged or de-
stroyed both vessels. I certainly should have steered to pass it to the north-
ward, merely assuming it to be a solitary rock.
Nothing in this name could lead a seaman to imagine a high rock, placed on
the southern edge of a coral lagoon island, 3 miles long. North and South, by
the same East and West. Its description should stand thus: — A very dan-
gerous, low, lagoon island, destitute of trees, with a high rock on its southern
edge, which may be mistaken for a sail. This rock can be seen 15 miles, but
in thick weather the low coral belt, which appears like sand, will not be dis-
tinguished until close to it. The breakers on the eastern side do not afford
B 'ficient warning for a vessel to turn or change her course. On the northers
part of the belt the !and is a little rained, and appears to be clothed with some-
thing like grass.
There .arc two entrances frV -"ut the centre of the N.E. and S.E. sides) whicl"
PASSION ISLAND OR ROCK.
1029
at high water may be safe ; but at the moment we pHsscd, the surf was too
heavy, and the reflux showed the rocks bore. The high rock is situated in lat.
10° 17' N., long. 109° 13' W., at about the middle of the S.E. side, the N.W.
edge of the reef being more than 2^ miles to tl N.W. of it. On the beach
several large trees were observed, and an object, which was thought to be part
of a vessel, near the western opening.
In the centre of the lagoon, as viewed from the mast-head, there is one hole
of blue water, and a second belt is connected with rock, attaching it to the
East side of the island. This literally cont . itutes two islands formed by its two
openings ; both are on the weather side of the island.
No living trees were seen, but the whole '.land was covered with gannet,
boobies, frigate pelican, and several kinds >> tern, which had also been no-
ticed in great numbers during the previc us week, at least 500 miles to tho
eastward.
No bottom was obtained by the Sulphur with 100 fathoms of line, but the
Starling had soundings with less than 100 finthoms on the northern side.
Sharks, porpoises, and turtle, were observed together. The former annoyed
us much by biting at our patent logs. They were very large, and literally
swarmed. In all probability they were attracted by a shoal of file (balistesj,
and other small fislv, which had been feeding off our copper since quitting the
Island of Cooos.
PASSION ISLAND or Book.— The existence of this has been the subject
of much doubt, arising from the very contradictory statements as to its posi-
tion. It is stated to have been discovered in the early part of the last century,
by Capt. Dvibocage, in La Dicouverle, of Havre, on a Good Friday, and from
this circumstance it takes its name. This account is alluded to by Le Bar-
binaise, who nuide a voyage to the South Seas in 1714. The position stated
is lat. 4° N., long. 106° W., but on Espinosa's chart it is given as lat. 16°54'N.,
long. 109° W. This great incongruity, however, is in some measure set at rest
by thu following, by Lieut. Woolridge, R.N., commanding H.M.S. Spy: —
" On Deccmbor 2ad, 1847, observed an island bearing W.N.W., which,
though (as laid down) would have been 60' distant, we could only believe to
be the Passion Kook. As we passed less than 30' to the West of it in July
last, and did not see it, and now passed 60' to the East of it, it is possible it
may be laid down 30' too far to the West.
" Latitude and longitude, from bearings and supposed distance, 17° 11' N.,
108^ 21' W. It appeared from aloft high, and peaked in several places."
However, Commander Dewey, U.S. ship Narrnyansett, searched unsuccess-
fully for this rock in 1873, ?nd Ilear-Admiral Aliny, in the Ptnsacola, also
failed to find it.
:'!l
M
( 1030
REVILLA-GIGEDO ISLANDS.
This is a small group of four islands, apparently of volcanic origin, lying to
the southward of the Californian Peninsula, and discovered in one of the early
Spanish voyages. Fernando de Grijal^i, in 1523, named the principal island
Santo Tomas, now called Socorro. The name of the group is derived from
Capt. Colnett, in 1793, who gave the name of the Spanish Mexican Viceroy to
them, in gratitude for the kindness he had received from him during his cap-
tivity. — {Colnett, p. 116). The Spaniards intended to form an establishment
on them, but their natural character prevented this.
SOCORRO, or Sanio Tomas, is about 9 miles in length, N.W. and S.E., and
about 7f miles in its greatest breadth. It may be said to consist of ouc moun-
tain, 3,707 ft. high, which may be seen at the distance of 60 miles, and falls
in gradual descent at all points on the South side. It is in a grea ; measure
covered with brushwood, intermixed with low prickly pear trees (cacti J, and
occasionally shaded with other trees of a larger growth. Some Tew spots of
the soil are black and barren, as if fire had lately issued near it ; and the top
of the high land at a distance has the appeumnca of having been formerly a
volcano. The surface is of a whitish colour, likb ^bat of the pumice stone, which
was found on the shore. Neither fire nor smoke were, however, seen to issue
from the island.
The vegetables found by Colnett's people were considered as wholesome ;
they were beans growing on a species of vine, and the molie tree, whose leaves
make a pleasant and aromatic decoction. The prickly pear, an excellent anti-
scorbutic, grew in great abundance. Nume.-ouj land-birds, and plenty of sea-
fowl, also afforded food. Fish is very ahondaut, but difficult to take, on
account of the numerous sharks. Water is, however, not to be found, though
there are many indications that some must exist, but it has not been dis*
covered.
Capt. Colnett considered the safest ar horage, from June to December, to be
in Cornwallis Bay, between the South and S.W. points, opposite to two white
coral beaches, which are the first two in succession from the South point of the
island toward the West. It is remarkable from the pinnacle rocks, 30 ft. high,
which lie close off the West point of the bay. This bay is preferable in the
bad season, as the wind seldom blows more than two points to the southward
of East. It is necessary to anchor quite near the beach, as the water quickly
deepens.
In the good season, however, that is, from the latter end of December till
the beginning of June, the S.E., or Braithwaite Day, is to be preferred ; the
anchorage here is better, and it is the only good landing-place. It is readily
known, being a stony beach at the first inlet in the shore to the eastward of
the South point. All other parts of the coast on the South side of the island
REVILLA-GIGEDO ISLANDS.
1031
1, lying to
f the early
ipal island
rived from
Viceroy to
g his cap-
ablisbment
d S.E., and
' oue moun-
s, and falls
la: measure
'cactij, and
sw spots of
md the top
formerly a
itone, which
een to issue
wholesome ;
trhose leaves
cellent anti*
lenty of sea-
to take, on
und, though
been dis*
ember, to be
two white
joint of the
30 ft. high,
table in the
southward
ater quickly
ecembcr till
efcrred ; the
It is readily
eastward of
of the island
are iron-bound, which makes it difficult, if not impossible to land, except in
very fine weather. To anchor in this bay, bring the peak to bear N.W. by N.,
and anchor in 10 or 11 fathoms, a quarter of a mile from the beach. Accord-
ing to Commander Dewey, of the U.S. ship Narragiimett, 1874, his observa-
tion spot, at the landing-place, is in lat. 18° 42' 67" N., long. 110° 56' 53" W.,
or 2 J' westward of Sir E. Belcher's position.
Sir E. Belcher states that Braithwaite Bay has rocky landing, the shores of
lava coule, and nothing like a beach. Neither wood nor water visible, although,
from the constant clouds which hang over the high peaks, there must be a
supply in some other point. Lieut. Wood examined the western bay, which
is spacious, and, as goats were observed, it is probable that they find water.
" It is difficult to penetrat * into the interior, even for a few hundred feet,
owing to the abundance of the cactus opuntia (prickly pear), which make
those who attempt it suffer for their curiosity. One of the crew of the Sulphur
made himself ill from eating a lai^e bean, which grew abundantly ; but it
might have been from indulging too freely, because some were cooked and eaten
without injury." Two of Colnett's people were affected in the same way.
Cape Rule, the South point of Socorro, is a high bluff, surmounted by a hill
250 ft. high. Oneal Rock, about half a mile long, and 45 ft. high, lies 1 mile
N.W. by N. from Cape Henslow, the N.W. bluff. Several other rocks lie off
the coast between this and Cape Middleton, the North point, and over a mile
north-eastward of the latter are two small rocks, 15 and 50 ft. high. The
eastern coast is very dreary and forbidding, consisting of perpendicular bluffs
from 15 to 150 ft. high, with no landing.
San Benedicto Island, named Nublada (cloudy) by Yillalobos, in 1542,
and San Berto by Colnett, lies 30 miles N. J E. from the peak of Socorro. It
is a barren rock, 3 miles in length, N.E. and S.W., and from a half to three-
quarters of a mile in breadth. The surface is uneven, and its appearance
romantic, but barren, with little or no vegetation. It has two peaks, the
highest, 975 ft. high, near the southern end ; these, when seen at the distance
of 9 or 10 miles, have the appearance of two islands. On the West side is a
small bay, but it was not examined. Three small rocks, 60 to 200 ft. high,
lie close westward of the North point of the island, and a dangerous sunken
rock lies about a mile westward of the extreme western point. Near the
middle of the eastern side is a small beach, where landing might be effected.
The North end of the island is in lat. 19° 20' N., long. 110° 48' W.
Boca Partida, 67 miles W. ^ N. from the peak of Socorro, is a dangerous
barren rock, 110 ft. high, lying N.N.W. and S.S.E., consisting of two white
pinnacle rocks, connected by a low rugged ridge 20 ft. high. It is only 100
yards in length, by 50 yards wide. The N.W. end is forked ; the S.E. end is
like a ragged haycock. There is a depth of 35 fathoms at a boat's length off
all round ; at half a mile distance, 50 fathoms; and then no bottom with 100
fathoms. It appears like a vessel under jury-masts. There is a great quan-
t
i! *>
;
i i
1032
ISLANDS BETWEEN LAT. 10' AND 20° N.
' ii
tity of fish, but the sharks prevent them being taken. The only inhabitants
of the rock are men-of-war hawks, as at San Benedicto. Lat. 18° 59" 40", long.
112" 7' 30" W.
Santa Rosa, or Clarion Island. — We have no early account of this island,
and its existence was doubted until it was seen, in 1815, by Lieut. Ponafidin,
of the Russinn Company's ship Souvoroff, who calculated its position as lat.
18° 28' I'll., long. 115^ 6' W. Captain Fitzgerald, of the Alert, saw it in his
passage from Callao to San Bias. It was also seen by Captain Clark, of the
American ship Pearl, who modestly bestowed the name of Clarion on it. It
is called Cloud Island on some charts, but this is evidently the name of Nu-
blad.'. Jc^and to the eastward. It is also probably the same as Beat Island and
Freshwater Island, placed near to Cloud Island.*
Clarion Island lies 2^ miles W. by S.f S. from Socorro, and is a little over
5 miles long. East and West, by from 1 to 2 miles wide. It has three pro-
minent peaks, 1,282, 916, and 996 ft. high respectively, the highest near the
western end. Captain Fitzgerald describes it as being high in the West part
(1,500 ft. according to Sir E. Belcher), and when it bears N.E. it shows in
three simimits, which give it the appearance of a group of islets. Sir E.
Belcher speaks thus of it : — Clarion Island differs slightly in its features from
Socorro, excepting that a whitish-coloured fresh-water lake was found at the
beach, and birds were more numerous, viz., the gannet, frigate pelican, several
varieties of boobies, of tern, ducks, and doves. The plants were more luxuriant,
the cactus particularly so, but not so uncourteous as at Socorro — it did not
entirely stop the way. No streams were noticed. Fish were very numerous,
and took the bait freely, but they broke the hooks. Turtle were plentiful ;
two were captured. Sir E. Belcher was not fortunate enough to find wood
or wholesome water in any way to justify a vessel seeking for those necessaries
at these islands. Possibly distress might be relieved, but nothing beyond.
The South side of the island is clear and steep-to, except off two indenta-
tions with sandy lieaches, off the eastern of which breakers extend nearly half
a mile. Sulph.r Day, the western, affords tolerable anchorage in northerly
winds, in 12 rr 13 fathoms, 3 cables from the beach. Sir E. Belcher places
his observation spot, on the East side of this bay, in lat. 18° 20' 36" N., long,
(corrected) 114° 43' 19" W. With the exception of these beaches, the shores
consist of perpendicular bluffs, 80 to 600 ft. high, with a few small detached
rocks. Off the N.W. point is the remarkable Monument Rock, 200 ft. high.
The current in the vicinity of Clarion Island was found setting to the south-
ward from a half to 1 knot an hour.
* The positions nssigaed to most of these islands was also examined by Lieut. CalUihy
Ap R. Jones, U.S.N., and no indication of land discovered. Lieut. Jones was of opii •md
that all of thorn were erroneous positions of Siiuta Rosa Island, which, from all thoep
pusitionH, was in sight. Tbcy were alto sourchud for unsuccessfully by the U.S. ship Nar-
ragantett, 1874.
a^mm
JOHNSTON ISLANDS.
1033
inhabitants
9- 40", long.
this island,
. Ponafidin,
ition OS lat.
law it in his
)lark, of the
n on it. It
lame of Nu-
fl Island and
a little over
18 three pro-
lest near the
he West port
it shows in
jlets. Sir E.
features from
found at the
elican, several
lore luxuriant,
—it did not
ery numerous,
rere plentiful ;
to find wood
ose necessaries
ig beyond.
F two indenta-
Bnd nearly half
;e in northerly
Belcher places
' 36" N., long,
shes, the shores
small detached
;, 200 ft. high.
; to the south*
by Liout. Cate'bv
168 was of opii •'jd
ch, from all thoso
the U.8. ship Ifar-
Sir E. Belcher sought for the several islands reported near Socorro and
Clarion Islands, and passed over the position of Best Island, which, if it existed
within 10 miles, might have been seen ; he soon after sighted Clarion Island,
not far out of its position as given. Birds, principally gannet, together with
broad patches of weed, were at times plentiful.
RoCA CoBAL, Roca Pardero, New Island, Misipi Island, New Baldayo
Island, &c. — Several islands under the foregoing names have been announced
OS existing between lat. 16^° and 17" N., long. 133° and 136^ W., but the re-
ports hove never yet been confirmed, and their existence, whether as referring
to a single island, or a cluster of five islands, as has been reported, or a scries
of detached islands, is exceedingly doubtful.
The United States' Exploring Expedition passed through the reported area,
and Sir Edward Belcher, in the Starliny and Blossom, Copt. Trollope, iu II.M.S.
Rattlesnake, and others, have sought for this cluster of doubtful islonds unsuc-
cessfully ; but numerous indications of land were met with, medusa:, floating
sticks, frequent showers, frigate birds, &c. Sir Edward Belcher says : — " As
these latter birds do not go far from land, I am disposed to believe some one of
these reports to be well founded, but the position erroneously determined. So
many assertions can hardly rest on imagination."
JOHNSTON ISLANDS were discovered December 14, 1807, on board
II.M.S. Cornwallis, Cupt. Chiirles James Johnston. The discovery and place
of the group were announced by Lieut. William Henry Smyth, at that time an
officer on board the Cornwallis, hence the group is sometimes called by the
name of the frigate. The original observations place them in lat. 16^ 53' 20" N.,
long. 169° 31' 30" W. They are described by Wilkes, 1840, as a lagoon sur-
rounded by an extensive reef, extending N.E. and S.W. 10 miles, and 5 miles
broad. On the N.W. side are two low islets ; the westernmost, in lat. 16'^ 48' N.,
long. 169° 45' 36" W., is covered with bushes, but no trees ; the other is only
a sand-bank. This reef lies deep.
They v;ero examined in 1859 by T'^^t. J. M. Brooke, of the U.S. schooner
Fenimoye Cooper. He lanaod on them, and obtained excellent equal altitudes,
and his observations, which should be preferred, place the flagstaff on the
West islet in lot. 16° ''V 48" N., long. 169° 39' 35" W. He says :— It is a
lagoon island, the reef being in the shape of a quadrilateral, 3J miles in a
N. by E. i E. and S. by W. i W. direction, and ^ miles N.W. by W. i W.
ana &. "^i. by E. J E. On it are two islets, the smaller being N. 55° E. (true)
from the larger, and distant 1 mile. The larger islet is about half a mile long,
E.N.E. and W.S.W., and here (on the eastern side) were the huts and wharf
of the Pacific Guano Company of San Francisco, who claimed possession of it ;
a flagstaff marked its position from the distance. The smaller islet, a mere
sand-bank, is less than a quarter of a mile iu diameter. Breakers extend to
North Pacific, A^.
1034
ISLANDS BETWEEN LAT. 10° AND 20= N.
I
the North, nearly 1^ mile ; to th<- West the reef approaches the larger islet
within a mile. A bank surrouncui the reef, extending in a S.E. direction 5 or,
6 miles, with 10 to 15 and 20 fathoms on it.
The best anchorage is three-quarters of a mile S.S.E. from the huts under
the flagstaff on the larger island ; in running for it, the flagstaff should be
brought to bear N. by W. i W., though there is nothing to prevent its being
brought on any bearing between North and N.W.
The sea all round the islets is alive with fish of a superior quality ; and birds
are extremely numerous.*
Sol^etman Reef. — In October, 1868, Captain Schjetman, of the Norwegian
ship Anna, states that he passed a breaking coral reef, level with the surface,
in lat. 16° 8' N., long. 178° 66' W. It was about 1 J mile long, North and
South, and about half a mile wide. In 1880, the U.S. ship Alert passed this
position, but observed no signs of the reef.
i < t
ii
■ ?l
SMYTH ISLANDS, Gaspar Bico, or Toangi, a smt*^' group, arc the sub-
ject of some doubt as to their original discovery. On the early Spanish charts,
an island, Gaspar Rico, is placed between lat. 15° and 16° N., and in long.
170° E. In 1625, the Dutch fleet, called the Nassau fleet, passed near to a
low island, which they believed to be Gaspar Rico. In 1796, DonF. Quintano,
* Tho following are doubtful aiinouncemcuts whiuh have boon mndo of diacorerios in thia
vicinity : —
Wilson Iilaiid, lat. 19' 15' N., long. ICG" 40' W. Jlaysn-ous Island, lat. 19" 6' N., long.
163° 33' W., and an island a degree farther West. Commander Skerrett, U.S. ship Portf
mouth, 1874, searched unsiicccsafully for thcso islands, and aUo for Malloon or Maleone
Island, lat. 19° 24' N., long. 165° 18' \V., which another report places in 10° 15', 166° 52'.
An Island, lat. 16° 30' N., long. 163° 50' W., and a thoal 20' to the eastward, were also
not found by Commander Skerrett.
A shoal, from whaler's report, in hit. 18° 26' N., long. 173° 24' W., and another shoal on
the same paralltl, and in long. 170° 30'.
Jane Island, lat. 16° 10' N., long. 173° 15' W.
Tho ships of tho United States' Exploring Expedition passed orer and near to the posi*
tioDB of many of these islands and shoais in clear weather, and for many hundred miles on
their parallel, without seeing anything.
The following are also unknown : —
A shoal, from whaler's report, 13' 30' N., 170' 30' W. ; an island 13» 4' N., 168* 28' W. ;
another island, in 13° 0' N., 165° 40' W. ; an island in 11^° N., 1G3' 65' W., was not seen
by tho Josephine, Capt. Stone. They wore also searched for unsuccessfully by Commander
Skerrett
Gtspar Island, 14° 8' N., 179° 0' E., or 15' 0' N., 179° 20' E. The latter position was
passed over by the United States' Exploring Expedition. Tho same with San Fedro Island,
in 11° 17' N., 179° 0' W., over which tho U.S. ship Natragansett also passed in 1872.
r.
the larger islet
1. direction 5 or
the huts under
istaff should be
revent its being
iility ; and birds
' the Norwegian
ith the surface,
)ng, North and
lert passed this
ip, are the sub-
Spanish charts,
[., and in long,
dssed near to n
on F. Quintano,
discoveries in this
. 19"" 6' N., long.
:, U.S. 8bip Purls-
talloon or Maleone
13° 15', 166' 52'.
itward, were also
I another shoal on
near to the poRi-
hundred miles on
N., 168»28'W.;
iV., was not seen
ty by Commander
tter position was
iSa» Ptdro Island,
led in 1872,
SMYTH ISLANDS— WAKES ISLAND.
1036
in the Spanish ship Maria, discovered a group of five small islands, connected
by rocky banks, which he believed to be San Barlolomeo, discovered by Salazar,
in 1536.
These several discoveries evidently refer to one and the same group. On
December 22, 1807, II.M.S. Cornwallis passed to the northward of a group of
islets and rocks extending 17 miles N.N.W. and S.S.E., the centre of which
was estimated to be in lat. 14"= 30' 30' N., long. 168° 42' 15" E., from the ob-
servations of Lieut. W. H. Smyth, afterwards deservedly celebrated as the sur-
veyor of the Mediterranean, &c. The largest and eastern of the islands re-
ceived the name of Sybilla ; the southernmost, Petrel / the others. Fruitful,
Danger, and Rabbit Islands. The N.W. part of the rocky reef was named the
Hocks of Scylla.
Captain Kotzebue saw these islands March 17, 1817, and sailed along their
West side. His description entirely accords with that given by Lieut. Smyth
and Capt. Quintano. His determination for the centre is lat. 14° 42' N., long.
169° 3' 30" ; but he concedes the difference, 21', between this and that of Lieut.
Smyth, to the latter. They were also seen by the American brig Bolivar,
February 9th, 1833, and then named Farnham Island.
Iiicut. Brooke, of the U.S. schooner Fenimore Cooper, examined the western
side in 1859 ; heavy weather prevented a thorough survey of the reef. This
side consists of a coral wall, with some clumps of rock scattered here and there,
At the northern extremity there are some clumps of rocks partly above water
and partly awash, and to the southward a couple of sand-banks a few feet above
watcrj apparently separated from the northern rocks by a channel, the whole
encircled by breakers which do not run out very far. The group extends
about 9 miles, N.N.W. and S.S.E. ; the eastern extent was not ascertained.
The reef to the westward is very low and very bold,— nearly steep-to ; at the
distance of a mile from the breakers, bottom was just reached at 1,000 fathoms.
There appear to be some detached breakers about a mile north-westward of the
N.W. extremity. Lieut. Brooke made the position of the main clump of rocks
at the N.W. extremity in lat. 14" 41' N., long. 168" 56f E.
According to the latest accounts, the S.W. extreme of this group is in lat.
14° 31' N., long. 169" 1' E. The islands are low, and thinly covered with iron-
wood and bushes, and are situated upon the eastern and northern reef. The
western reef consists of two parallel reefs, having a boat channel into the en-
closed space which has 30 fathoms water in it. There is no passage into the
lagoon even for a boat, and no anchorage,
WAKES ISLAND was discovered by the Prince William Henry, in 1796,
and its position, &c., fixed by the United States' Exploring Expedition in 1840.
It was seen by Capt. Gardner in the whale-ship Bellona, in 1823. He describes
it as being 20 to 25 miles long, with a reef extending 2 miles from the East end,
1036
ISLANDS BETWEEN LAT. 10" AND 20° N.
•I
I
with detached rocks to tho West. It was well covered with trees. Captain
Sproulc saw it in 1858, in the barque Maria.
This danger is described by Lieut. Wakes as a low island of triangular form,
8 ft. above the surface of the sea, covered by shrubs, with a srtiall reef around
it, lying in lat. 19° 10' 54" N., long. 106" 31' 30" E. It has a largo lagoon in
the centre, filled with a variei^y of fish, among which are some fine mullet. No
fresh water, and no palm or cocoa-nut trees. From appearances, the island is
at times submerged, or the sea makes a breach over it. It was low water at l**
on the moon's last quarter. The reef around is very small.
The description of Capt. Sproule agrees well with this ; so that there is no
doubt his island is identical with that surveyed by Lieut. Wilkes. Captain
Sproule passed this locality repeatedly above and below the parallel of Wakes
Island, and gives evidence that all those islands and reefs marked on the charts,
under the names of Wakes, Halcyon, and Hclsion Islands, are one and the same.
Capt. Brown, of the missionary ship Morning Star, also searched for Halcyon
Island without finding it.
It is thus very probable that Halcyon Island, said by Eotzebue to have
been discovered by an American captain in lat. 19° 23' N., long. 165° 33' E.,
is the same as Wakes Island, because Captain Wilkes passed by its assigned
position without seeing it. Krusenstern calls Wakes Island by the name of
Halcyon, on this supposition. Another authority places Halcyon Island in
19° 6' N., 163° 33' E.*
In 1883, the Germau war-vessel Leipzig passed close to Wakes Island, and
under very favourable circumstances its position was estimated to be latitude
19° 18' N., long. 166° 41' 15" E.
Alligator Shoal. — We have no particulars of this shoal, which Is placed on
the chart in lat. 15° 5' N., long. 154° 20' E.
• An Maud in 19° 31' N., long. 166° 35' E., as announced in tho Alta California, another
island, from whaler report, ou tho same parnllcl, being 2° farther Enst, and also a bank in
20° 0' N., 167° 40' E., must refer to Wakvs Island. The latter bunk was searched for on-
Bucccssfiilly by the U.S. ship Portsmouth.
Besides these the following dotthtful islands may ba enumerated :—
Sail BaHolomco Island ; Maniifl Rodriguez Reef. — An island was discorered in 1536, by
Torito Alonzo de Saliiziir, called S. Bartolomoo, which is placed on Admintl Espinosa's
chiirt in Int. 15° 10' N., long. 163° 43' E., without stating upon what authority. It was
not found on a search of 100 leagues on the parallel assigned to it by Capt. Morlet, of
the French Marine, in November, 1851. In tho memoir of Admiral Espinosa, Manuel
Rodriguez Ucef is placed in lat. 11° 0' N., long. 141° 17' W. ; but these indications are so
raguo that no depondenco can bo place 1 on their acourbcy. It is sufficient horetomentioa
them.
J.
trees. Captnin
triangular form,
mil reef around
largo Ingoon in
fine mullet. No
!C8, the island is
low water at l*"
;hat there is no
'ilkes. Captain
irallel of Wakes
!d on the charts,
ae and the same,
led for Halcyon
)tzebuc to have
ng. 165° 33' E.,
by its assigned
by the name of
Icyon Island in
ces Island, and
to be latitude
ich is placed on
California, another
nd aUo a bank in
I aearched for un-
ered in 1536, by
dmiml Espinosa's
ithority. It was
Cupt. Morlet, of
Bspinosa, Manuel
ndications are so
it hotetomentioA
( 1037 )
MARIANA OR LADRONE ISLANDS.
Tlie orclitpelago of the Marianas or Ladrones is composed of a chain of voU
eanic islands, which extend in a North and South direction for a space of 420
miles, between lat. 13° 12' and 20° 32' N. Magalhacns, the first eircumnavi*
gator, discovered them on March 6th, 1521, but he only saw Tinian, Saypan,
and Aguigan. His companians in the voyage named them the " Islands of the
latteen sails " fTslas de las velas latinasj, on account of the triangular form of
the sails carried by their prahus. The Spaniards named them also Ladrones,
from the great propensity to thieving evinced by the natives, although Father
Gobien, who wrote a history of the archipelago, states that they hold this vice
in detestation. Antonio Galvaom mentions them under the names of Lot
Jardines and Los Prazeras, or Pleasant Islands.
It was in 1668 that they received the name of Marianas, in honour of the
widow of the King of Spain, Philip lY., Maria Anna of Austria. This name
has been continued to the present day, and has nearly absorbed all others given
previously. In 1564 or 1565, Andreas Miguel Lopez Legaspi came hither,
and proclaimed them to be the possession of the crown of Spain, but he stayed
here but a very short time.
The advantage which these islands afforded to the Spaniards, by their situa-
tion on the grand track from Acapulco to Manila, and the facility in procuring
fresh provisions and water here, soon induced them to take actual possession
of them. Under the pretext of converting the natives to the Christian religion,
they founded, in 1668, in the Island of Guahan, a mission under the direction
of Padre dc Sanvitorcs, which soon extended its infiucncc over the other in-
habited islands. The mutual good understanding, however, did not last long
between the missionaries and the natives, who after some months had elapsed
began to revolt against them. They attacked the fort, and killed several of
the Spaniards, but European discipline and fire-arms prevailed, and they were
obliged to yield. The war of extermination and the emigration to other islands
80 destroyed the population, that when Dampier came liither in 1686, that is
eighteen years after the arrival of Padre dc Sanvitorcs, there were not more
than 100 natives on the island. Dampier says that the number had been 400,
but the Spanish authors magnify them into 40,000 and upwards, a great ex-
aggeration. It was not until 1695 that all resistance was quelled, which proves
that up to this date the natives had not abandoned the hope of recovering their
independence ; but an epidemic finished the work of destruction, and when
Anson visited the island of Tinian, he found it entirely deserted. This island,
which once had a population of 30,000 men, was then only inhabited by wild
hogs ond cattle.
The reports of Sanvitorcs, also, confirm the estimates of the population. He
•ays, among other things, that during the first year of his labours he baptized
1038
MARIANA OB LADRONE ISLANDS.
13,000 people, nnd converted 20,000 ; but this must be overrated. The popu-
lation of Ouahan, according to Malespinn, amounted to 4,000 people, but ho
does not say how many of these were of the primitive race. According to
Kotzebue, there were but a single couple in 1817, at the death of whom the
indigenes would become extinct. This is a sad but true picture of the mode
in which the Spaniards facified the natives. The last-named author also tells
us that the Americans, who traded in peltry between the N.W. coast of America
and China, had formed an establishment on the islands of Saypan and Origan.
For this purpose they had brought some families of Sandwich islanders to cul-
tivate the land and raise live stock; but as soon as the Spaniards heard of this,
they sent a detachment of soldiery to the infant colony, who destroyed the
plantations, and carried away with them the Sar Iwich islanders as prisoners.
M. Chamisso, the naturalist in Kotzebue's expedition, has given a detailed
account of this enterprise, undertaken in 1810, by Capt. Brown, of the American
ship Derby.
The most complete nautical account and chart of the archipelago was that
drawn up by M. de Freycinct, who surveyed a portion of the southern part of
the group in the French corvettes L'Uranie and La Physicienne, in 18 lO."*^
The most recent accounts of this remote (and iiseless) Spanish colony are given
by Commander Sanchez y Zayas and Lieut. Camargo, of the Spanish Navy,
and by Capt. Knorr, of the German war-vessel Hertha, as mentioned in the
note below. To these we are indebted for many of the subsequent particulars,
which are incorporated with the remarks by Frcycinet.
Iliere has been much confusion in the names of the northern islets, in-
creased by the addition to the chart of an island which does not exist. These
* The accounts of the progreu of discovery in this group will bo found in Ilerrera,
decnd. 3, 1. 7, et, Bsq. ; Argensola, Conquista do laa Molucas, lib. i. ; Gon:ak» de Oeinio,
Hist, de las Tndias ; Oomara, Hist. Gen. de las Indias ; Ultimo Viaga al Esitrocho do ]\la-
galhaens, p. 206, &c. ; Anson's Vcyago Round tho World, by Kichard Walter, book iii.,
chap. 2; Byron's Voyage, in Hawkesworth's Collection, vol. i., p. 116, et seq. ; Wiillis's
Voyage, ibid., vol. i., p. 279, et seq. ; Portlock's Voyage, p. 317 ; Gilbert's Voyngo of tho
Charlotte, 1788, pp. 66-7 ; Voyage of Governor Phillip to Botany Bay, 1789, p. 255. Ob-
servations, &c., on a Voyage to Teneriffe, Tinian, &c., in the brig Mercury, commanded by
Xj, U. Cox, by Lieut. George Mortimer, 1791, p. 64, ct seq. ; Voyage do L' Astrolabe et
Zelee, tome v., pp. 202 — 336; Freycinet's Voyage, Faiis, 1826; Navigation et Hydrog,,
chap. xL, pp. 190 — 221 ; and the Voyage of the •'Spanish corvette Narvaez, by her com-
mander D. E. Sanchez y Zayas, Anuario do la Direccion de Hidrografia, iii, 1865, and a
translation of the same by Lieut. MacDermott, of the French Navy, in the Annales Hy-
drograpbiques, 1866-7.
Among later sources of information may be mentioned the notes on Guam Island, by
Lieut. Camargo, published in the Anuario for 1873, and a translation of tho same by Lieu^.
d'llombres, in the Annales Hydrographiques, 1876; and the Report of the visit of the
German war-vessel Hertha, in Annalen dar Hydrographie, 1876.
d. The popu-
pcople, but be
According to
I of whom the
of the mode
uthor also telU
)H8t of America
an and Origan,
slanders to oul-
a heard of this,
destroyed the
8 as prisoners,
iven a detailed
)f the American
elago was that
outhern part of
mne, in 1819*
olony ore given
Spanish Navy,
intioncd in the
ent particulars,
bern islets, in-
)t exist. These
cund in Herrcra,
on:alcs de Ocicdo,
Ebtrccho do 31a-
SVnlter, book iii.,
et seq. ; Wiillis's
's Voyngo of tha
r89, p. 255. Ob-
■y, commanded by
do L' Astrolabe et
ition et Uydrog.,
aez, by hor com-
iii, 1869, and a
the Annates Hy-
Guam Island, by
ho same by Lieu'.
f the visit of the
MARIANA OR LADRONE ISLANDS.
1039
diaercponcies have been rectified by Commander Sanchez y Zayas, as hereafter
explained.
P*rom the statistics gathered by Commander Sanchez y Zayas, there were
4,060 inhabitants in 1800, which number increased to 5,400 in 1818 ; to 8,609
in 1849; and to 9,500 in 1850. I3ut in the last-named year small-pox broke
out in the archi])clago, and in the course of that year carried off hnlf the people,
reducing the numbers to 4,556 souls. In 1865, the population was reckoned
ns 5,G10, of which 4,824 M'ere on Guajan, 335 on Ilota, 18 on Tinian, and 435
on Saypan; the other islands being uninhabited. The group is under the
outhority of a military Governor, residing at Agafia.
The indigenous race called Chamorros very much resemble the Tagals and
Visayos of the Philippines, but are perhaps more indolent, — a fault oompcn-
Sated for by good qualities, of whicli sobriety and unselfishness may claim
notice. The Caroline islanders, who have been import9.d, are naturally activo
and industrious.
The primitive inhabitants of the archipelago have left some memorials of
their talent behind them, like those of the monuments on Easter Island, at the
opposite extreme of the Pacific Islands. In Tinian these structures are re-
markable. They are described in Lord Anson's Voyage, where a view is given
of one, and they are mentioned by other and later visitors. Lieut. Mortimer
says they consisted, in the state he saw them, of two ranges of columns, either
of stone or composition, and of a pyramidal form, 5 feet 4 inches broad at the
base, and 14 feet high, having large semi-globes, 5 feet 10 inches in diameter,
placed on the tops, with their flat surfaces upwards. These singular strueturesi
which are not all exactly alike, are supposed by Freycinet to be the supports of
a wooden ceiling to which the roofs of the principal houses were affixed. But
this opinion is not participated in by other authors, and a further examination
points to the inference that they are sepulchral monuments of the former in-
habitants. There are numerous similar remains on the other islands, especially
at Asan, near Agaiia in Guahan ; but here they are smaller, and constructed of
stone.
Deer and wild goats are found in abundance, and form the principal food of
the Europeans (Spaniards) ; cows and pigs are also reared. Potatoes, inaize,
and rice are indigenous ; and cocoa, coffee, and hemp are cultivated.
Climate. — It rains very heavily at the Marianas, and it may be affirmed that
there are no dry and rainy seasons — it rains in torrents every day. The enormous
evaporation of the Pacific is condensed in passing over the islands, so that with
'winds from every quarter rain is abundant at all hours of the day or night.
The Narvaez was here in December and January, the period of the so-called
dry season, but rain was abundant every day, and the natives were surprised
at the weather being considered as wet.
The temperature is mild, and much cooler than at the Philippines, but the
inhabitants declared that the heat in August and September was almost suffd-
I
1040
MARIANA OR LADRONK ISLANDS.
1 !
oating. This must arise from the interruption of the N.E. trade wind, which
blows throughout the year with the exception of these two months, during
which the effects of the S. W. monsoon apparently reach to the Marianas. At
this time there is generally a dead calm, for the monsoon itself has not sufR>
cicnt force to reach the archipelago. It is therefore the season of intense heat,
rnin, and storms, and frequently of terrible hurricanes.
Admiral Krusenstern makes the following observations on this subject: —
The Murinnns lie in the region of the North tro])ic, and consequently in that of
the N.E. trade winds. But this is not the prevalent wind. The N.E. and
S.W. monsoons, which are met with in the Cliina Scu, on the coasts of China,
ond near the Philippine Islands, extend as far as the Marianas, and sometimes
even beyond them ; so that the limits between the monsoons and the trade
winds must be found somewhere near this archipelago, as is explained in a sub-
sequent pigc, in treating of the winds nnd currents.
Currents generally following the direction of the winds, it is probable that
it is also the case near the Marianas. But Capt. Golownin met with a rapid
current bearing to the N.E., although the wind blew from that quarter ; and a
Spanish officer affirms that a similar current generally flows in this part ; but
this phenomenon may proceed from some local cause, and is but an exception,
and does not affect the general rule.
From reci * observations it is stated that the currents in the Mariana Archi-
pelago set to ti. " ^V . at the rate of about three-quarters of a mile an hour,
during nine months o> vear, and to the N.E. during the remaining three
months.
Between the islands of Tinian and Aguijan a violent cm-rent was remarked
in the Centurion, the direction of which was alternately S.S.E. and N.N.W.
This would prove the existence of regular tides. The flood, which bore to the
N.N.W., was more rapid than tic obb, ar.d lasted longer. Pasco-Thomas also
remarked, that, during the byzv^;\os, the flood was 2 ft. less than at the qua-
dratures, which is contrary to v.!m^ usually occurs. The greatest rise of water
was 8 ft. ; with S.W. winds t)... flood rose higher than with other winds,
From later observations the tides are found to be insignificant, the greatest rise
not exceeding 3 ft.
Observations on the Winds, by M. de Freycinet. — We remarked that in April
and May the wind at the island of Guahan almost always blew freshly from
E.N.E. to E.S.E. It sprang up at break of day, became very fresh towards 8
or 10 a.m., and was calm during the night. The sky was most generally clear;
sometimes it was overcast with thick clouds, which, driven with great rapidity,
gave place to showers and strong gusts.
When the horizon was overcast to the S.W., N.W., and West, with a black
mass, not high, the sea began to break on the inner banks at Luis Harbour. It
also occurred that, notwithstanding the continuance of the easterly winds, the
.8.W. and westerly swell rendered the luirrow passages between these reefs im-
T ^ a^..
or AM.
^041
trade wind, whioH
months, during
:he Marianas. At
self has not tuffi-
}u of intense heat,
m this subject: —
pquently in that of
I. The N.E. and
ic coasts of China,
las, and sometimes
ons and the trade
explained in a sub-
it is probable that
met with a rapid
[lat quarter ; and a
in this part; but
1 but an exception,
the Mariana Archi-
>f a mile nn hour,
10 remaining three
ent wos remarked
S.E. and N.N.W.
which bore to the
Pasco-Thomas also
ss than at the qua-
eatest rise of water
with other winds,
it, the greatest rise
arked that in April
blew freshly from"
;ry fresh towards 8
)st generally clear ;
vith great rapidity,
West, with a black
t Luis Harbour. It
easterly winds, the
eea these reefs im-
prncticable. During our ntny, storms, accompanied by rain, were very frequent,
but of short duration. Thunder was never heard.
The monsoons are felt ni the Marianas ; that from the West takes place from
the middle of June to the middle of October. The wind, however, only blows
violently for three months of the year. Hurricanes are comparatively rare ;
earthquakes, on the contrary, arc tolerably frequent. Of the first-mentioned
scourges, there had not been one for seven years prior to our vLsit.
Between the years 1850 ond 1875, fifteen typhoons or hurricanes M-ere ex-
perienced at Guam, eight of them occurring in the month of November, two in
February, three in April, and one in June and September.
According to Don Luis dc Torres, the months of July to November arc the
season of bod weather, storms, thundcf, and rain ; and in December, January,
and February, the weather is variable ; March, April, May, and June, are the
finest ; the breeze (hen comes from East and N.K. The months when the winds
blow strongest are August, September, October, and November ; they blow at
these periodH from N.W. to S.W. by W., sometimes from South and S.E., but
in general rather between North and West than from North itself.
Observations on the Winds, Sfc, by Lieut. Camaryo. — The winds in these
islands follow the general law of the N.E. trade wind ; tliey are sometimes
modified by the monsoons of the China Sea, on the limit of which thr^y lie.
The S.W. monsoon is only light, but the N.E. is fresher and blows longer. It
lai' Tom the middle of October to the end of June, which is the fine season.
During July and August it blows from the S.W. ; it has less strength, but is
accompanied by strong squalls and heavy rain. It rains sometimes during the
N.E. monsoon, but it never lasts longer than three days. 'J he N.E. monsoon
is strongest during December and January. At the end of February it becomes
feeble ; turns to East and even, though rarely, to E.S.E. ; it freshens in the
latter half of March, and blows moderately. After this it dies away gradually
till July, when the S.W. monsoon sets in.
Hurricanes follow here the same laws as in the China Sea. Their influence
is rarely felt at the change of the monsoon from N.E. to S.W. ; but at this
period there are strong breezes or nortades. Hurricanes are only felt in Sep-
tember and October, at the change to the N.E. monsoon, when the northern
is'nnds of the archipelago are often devastated.
The Currents are modified by those of the China Sea, running to the S.W.
for nine months, and to the N.E. for the other three months, following the
monsoons, the S.W. setting about three-quarters of a mile an hour.
GUAM,* Guajan, or Guahan, is the southernmost and principal of the
• Guam is spelt in the Atlas Uistoriquo of Froycinet's "Voyage, GMiam, the w being
equivalent to the diphthong ou. Most of the words usually spelt with this, the Itilian u or
English 00, are thus written in the excellent map in question.
North Pacific. . . 6 r
I I
I )
i i
1042
MARIANA OR LADRONE ISLANDS.
Marianas, inasmuch as it is the seat of government, and is also the largest of
them. Besides this, it is the only one inhabited to any extent, the population
in 1873 amounting to about 7,000. It is 29 miles in length, N.E. by N. and
S.W. by S., and of irregular breadth, 10 miles where widest, narrowing in its
centre to not more than 3 miles. Except on the N.E. side, where there is no
laiiding, it is bordered throughout the greater part of its circuit with a chain
of reefs, which are uncovered at times. Excellent old Dampier thus describes
the island :— " At a distance it appears flat and uneven, but coming near it,
you will find it stands shelving, and the East side, which is much the highest,
is fenced with steep rocks, that oppose the violence of the sea, which continu-
ally rages against it, being driven by the constant trade wind, and on that side
there is no anchoring (except for small vessels). The West side is pretty low,
and full of small sandy bays, divided with as many rocky points. The soil of
the island is reddish, dry, and indifferently fruitful. The fruits are chiefly rice,
pine-ap])les, water-melons, musk-melons, oranges and limes, cocoa-nuts, and a
sort of fruit called by us bread-fruit. The cocoa-nut trees giow by the sea
on the western side in great groves, 3 or 4 miles in length, and 1 or 2 miles
broad."
It was surveyed by M. Duperrey, under the orders of Captain Frcycinet, in
1819. He went round it in a boat; and in the Atlas attached to the Voyage
of Z' Uranie are some excellent and detailed plans.
The North side of the island is rather low, the small hills of Santa Eosa,
about 630 ft. high, being the only elevation, but to the southward it is more
mountainous, Mount Tiniquio forming several peaks, of no great elevation.
Point Ajayan, the S.E. extremity of Guam, is in lat. 13" 14' N., long.
144" 44' E. To the West of it is Ajaynn (Ahayan) Z?rty, singularly obstructed
by reefs. The South end of Guam is an uninterrupted sandy beach fronted by
reefs, having two or three small islandj on it. Cocos Island, formerly called
DanioHo, and near to it BuU Isluncl,\\c 2i milo; from the S.W. point of Guam.
It is a mile long, low and barren, with some treofl, among which was a single
cocoa-nut tree, which gives its name. It is surrounded by 'cefs, which, extend-
ing to the northward, form between It and the actual S.W. point of Guam the
small boat harbour ' ends gradually to the sea,
terminating in long and low points. Its N.W. coast and the S.E. side of the
isthmus arc bestrewed with numerous rocks, on which the sea breaks, more or
less, according to the direction of the wind. The portion of the island not in-
habited is so encumbered with bushes (on the North side only are some cocoa-
nut trees) that it is difficult to penetrate.
Three wells furnish water to the people ; two of them are artificial, nnd the
water is detestable ; the third, which is natural, affords Letter, though it is
brackish. On the East coast, at 5 miles from the villages, there is a rivulet
of very good water. There are some cattle and pigs on the island.
Captain Sanchez y Zayas gives tlie following remarks on Uota : —
The two villages are more properly two streets which, collectively, arc called
Rota They consist of seventy-nine huts of leaves and bamboos, a small her-
mitage called a church, a house for the ixidre, and a sort of hovel which they
call the royal house. The priest is the only Eurojwan, and there were .IIJo in-
habitants. There is anchorage opposite to either village. 'I'he (streets are
built on the sandy isthmus, which is so low that tlie sea threatens to break
over it in bad weather, when the people take refuge in a cavern near Sosnu-
jaya. lliis cavern is exceedingly curious, abounding in crystul.s, nnd of un-
known but great extent. It is stated that there is an extinct cruter on tho
summit of the island, but it must be of great antiquity, for tho trees cover it
luxuriantly. On the flanks of the mountain there arc scattered a great number
of ancient stone monuments, apparently sepulchral, and belonging to an age
anterior to the Chamorros or last inhabitants.
The anchorage of Somnlngo, to the N.W. of the sandy isthmus, is very bad.
There is but a smatl space for anchorage on the reef, and the bottom is rocky,
beaides which the depth is most uneven. The Nurvaez was (juite brought up
to shoal water, and the anchor dropped in a hole .30 fathoms deep. 'Hie ground
all around the island is of coral, which will explain this, and the channel through
requires a pilot.
The roadstead of Sotanjaya, on the opposite side of the isthmus, is almost
as bad as the other, with this distinction, that here the const is rocky, ami
there is no landing. Although the Narvaez was here protected from the N.E.
ys.
4
AOriJAN-TINTAN.
1049
wind and swell, yot, to land, thr bont« had to pull around Point Taipingon for
S miles to get to the viliajju. Capt. Sanchez y Zayos thinlcH that it iH the worst
in the Marianas.
The only refreshments to be got here are poultry, bananan, and oranges,
which the people will exchange for useful things, such as clothes, nails, or
utensils, in preference to money. Water is scarce, bad, and difficult to em-
bark •
Aga^an, or Agrigan. — At 44 miles N.N.E. of Rota is the small island of
Aguijan, not more than 3 miles long, and 2 miles wide. In its North part arc
high, perpendicular, and ne»rly naked rocks, their summits crowned with a
thick w(Hid. At a distance this island appears parched and barren, but this is
not so when closer. At about three-quarters of a mile to the S.W. of Aguijan
there are three rocks, small and perpendicular, between which and the island
there is a passage for the largest ship. The island is uninhabited. It is said
that the inhabitants of Tinian formerly carried some goats to Aguijan ; they
may have multiplied greatly, for it is but little frequented. The only points
fit for landing are on the West and N.W. sides, in some very small creeks,
lined with sandy beaches. Its centre is in lat. 14'' 53' 30', long. 145° 30' E.
TINIAN, or Bona Viata, is seimrated from Aguijan by a channel 5 miles
broad. It has been celebrated for its fertility and the prodigious quantity of
cattle; in 1876 it contained about 200 inhabitants. It is 10 miles in extent.
North and South, and 4 J miles broad. Sunhuron or Amon lioad, on the
B.W. side of the island, being open, and the bottom very bad, cannot be
recommended as an anchornge, particularly between the months of June and
October; at other times it is secure. Lord Anson onchored here, August 27,
1742, in 22 fathoms, on a bottom of hard sand and corn!, about IJ mile off
shore; at this position the two extremes of the island bore N.W. i N. and
S.E. \ E. ; the centre of Aguijan Island. S.S.W. ; the peak of Saypan Island
was visible over the island of Tininn, N.E. by N. J N. ; and a reef of rocks
lying between the vessel and the shore, E. by S. j| S.
The first account of the Mariana .\rchipeIago that deserves the attention of
navigators is that given by Hichard Walter, the chaplain to CoinmtKlore Anson,
in his voyoge round the world, who came to Tinian as just stated, and remained
till the ei\d of October, 1742. Frightful ravages had b«'en made by scurvy in
the ill-fated crew of the Ceuturion, in a j)revious part of her voyage. They
arrived here in their floating hospital, and by means of the refreshments spon-
timeously produced, they all recovered in a week. Walter draws the picture
• KMiibitU Island* - in 18-12, Captain Kiiiibull rojxirted (in thu San Friiicisco llorald)
that he had nc'iiii a group of sumll i.«landH in W 'IW N., loiii,'. U'l" lu K, or 2i)0 mili'S
easlwitrd of Uutn. Nothing more i» kuuwa uf ihuui, and they may bu plucod u« vury
doubtful.
yuith Facijic. ^
«?'
10.10
MAKTANA OH T-ADIKA'F, ISLANDS.
! i
) i
of Tiiiian in the most plowiu'* colourn. The healthy ntid dry soil, the honuty "f
Its natural meadows, the divorsitioil woods nnd lawns, vnllovH niul hills, nhouiid-
injj; with hords of thousands of cattli* : f;uanncoi'«, wild hoi;s, exceedingly fierce,
hh praised hy Richard Walter,
and so dis|)raised by l$yron as being brackish and full of worms, was found to
be good and sweet; but this may have been the effect of season. Lieutenant
Mortimer was here in December, Commodore Hyron in .\ugust ; Caj)t. tJilbert
found "it dry in .\ugust, 17HS.
On one point all agree, that is, the badness of the roadstead; we therefore
quote Uichard Waller's words: — " Itut thv most imi)ortanl and formiilable ex-
ception to the |)la(e remains still to be told ; this is, the inconvenience of the
the road, and the little security there is, in some seasons, for a ship to anchor.
The only propiT anchorage place for ships of burthen is at the S. W. end of the
island: the I'eak of ."saypan, t^een over the uorthirn part of Saypan, ami bear-
ing N.N.K. i Iv, is a direction for rtadily finding it; the anchoring jjlac^ is
then S miles ilislant. Here tlie CV>i/Mrf on anchored in 22 fathoms, about IJ
mile off the shore, opj)osite to a sandy bay. The bottom of this road is fidl of
sharp jioii.te I coral mrks. which, during four njonths of the year, that is, from
the middle of June to the middle of October, render it very unsafe anchorage.
Noil. tlio licauty «>f
« nii«I hills, nhoiinil-
rxccciiingly fierce,
ilH, f^unviiM, cocoa-
iif fruit peculiar to
il-fniit," swell into
h that were taken
3 much, but Hyroti
The island hud no
with, '• and in the
lieeeH of excellent
in 'i'iuian, led ti>
10 found Tinian a
I of n ])aradi80, it
sutferahly hot, the
Walter, it is tn>c,
overcd with thcni
lout Rettinji; them
)st any othir place
Ill's in 17»>3, could
, drawf* a picture
I passed it in 17.SH.
condition at that
8 Honiewlint over-
r, who came liere
c were very wild
Kicliard Walter,
rins, was found to
ison. Lieutenant
ist ; dipt. Gilbert
nd ; wc therefore
nd formidable e\.
)nvenienco of the
ft ship to anchor.
Q S.W. end of the
viypan, and bear-
ichorinj; plac" is
ithoms, about 1 J
^his road is full of
year, that is, from
iinsufc nncliorage.
TIM.W.
lO/il
This is the season of the western monsoons ; whin near llu- full and ehanne of
the moon, but more particularly at tlie change, the wind is iiNually variable all
round the ccmipass, and seldom fails to blow with such fury that the Htoutest
cables arc not to be confided in. What adds to the danj^er at these times is
the excessive rapidity of the tide of flood, which sets to the .S.lv, between this
island and tluit of A^^uijan. This tide runs at first with a vast head and over-
fall of water, occasioning such a hollow and overgrown sea as is scarcely to be
conceived, so that we were under the dreadful apprehension of being poojied
by it, though we were in a <',u-gun ship. In the remaining eight months of
the year, that is, from the middle of October to the middle of June, there is
a constant season of scltleil weather ; when, if the cables are but well aniii'd,
there is scarcely .iny danger of tlieir being ever rubbed. 1 shall oidy a, whieli are found everywhere
on it, give certain indications of its vokanic origin. All the wi», who were sent hue from Agana, and
changed every two years, for the purpose of slaugiitering the cattle and ilr\ in"
the flesh, making what is called Uijea or tasajo (jerked beef), which is sold for
the benefit of the Lepers' hospital, and forms one of the small sources of revenue
jio-isessed by the islands. At a short distanee from the viiioge, on the Kast
coast, is the hospital for ineiirable lepers, of which, there were only three in
Idtio, creatures condemned without mercy by ihe Spaniards, but thcv are ca.id
for by the Indians. The antiquities which are found ou Timan have been be-
fore alluded to.
Sunharon is the only point where a vessel can anchor or a boat can lnuJ.
/
!
!
1
i
i
l!
1
1
1
!!
■n
r
•(
•I
10S2 MAUIANA Oil LADRONE ISLANDS.
The Sarvan anchored here for five hours in the best epot she could find, and
with every cauUon, but the broke her anchor. Thii will indicate the worth
of the anchomgv.
8AIPAH or Seypan Island, which is distinguished by a lofty peak, is so
clow to Tininn that small boato pass from one to the other over the shoal wnttr.
This island is fertile. wiKxlcd. and about 14 miles long. N.N.E. and S.S.W.*
The volcanic cone is of a p«"rfect form, but ita elevation has been much ex-
nggeroted. Capt. Sanchez y Zayiw believes that it is not more than 1.000 to
1.200 ft., but it was not mooHured. It has been given at double this. At about
2 or 3 miles North of Uuh |K'ak tboi-c is another extinct crater, moderately ele-
vated. The southern part of the island is flatter, forming an cxteUMive grnr.ing
ground. The beocli i.s bordered Manngaaa and two othur nmall inlsta. Nuthin^of thu kind pxiHta. The chart he
has improved is not quite correct, but in Uitter th;iii timt provioubly givun.
TANArAO-MAOiriENNE HAY.
1053
r be recognised
the Tortugn Hank, whii-h ih extremely dangerntin, and nearly nwnnh, the nea
but rarely breaking on it. To the North of this bank in n serieH of other HhoaU,
separated by small channels, which unites with those of Managnsa Inland.
'I'here is anohorngc aim) a)M)ut a mile outside the reefs in 19 fathoms, to 7 or
R fathomiH cUme to them, coral bottom, bringing the most conspicuous of the
houses about P^N.Fl, and Managasa Island to North or N. by K. The bottom
is generally rocky and coral, but with some sandy spot«. The Narvan an-
chored in M fathom*, rock and sand, with the West point of Managosn N. by E. ;
the Fast \w\\\\ N. 14^ K. ; Saypan N.W. point N. 'Ab K. ; the largest house in
Oarapan N. CH' B. ; the N.K. point of Tiiiiao 8. 14^ W. ; and the N.W. point
8. 'ir W.
Duriug the period of the N.K. trades this anchorage is safe, but during the
season when the S.W. monsoon may reach the Marianas, a vesMel would be in
great danger here, should she be overtaken with even motlcrately bad weather.
There is a boat channel across the reefs to the village ; it is wide enough,
and is lieaconed by the natives with trunks of trees. This channel can be u8«-d
by day by attending to these marks, but not by night without a competent
guide, as the channel is very crooked.
Tanapag is a spacious harbour between the N.W. shore of Saypan and
MunagHsa Island. The entrance is difficult, especially for a sailing vessel, with
N.K. winds, the narrow channel being bestrewed with rocky heads, but when
within there is a well-sheltered and safe anchorage. The Spanish corvette did
not remain long enough to make a plan of it, but from what was learned re-
specting it, it was concluded that this harbour, and that of San Luis d'Apra,
were the only ones in the Marianas, where a vessel of any size could heave down
and careen. A whaler of considerable draught had done so in Tanapag.
Magioienne Bay, so named by Capt. N. Vansittart, K.N., C.B., in command
of the steam-frigate of that name, in July, 1858, ib on the S.W. side of Say]>an ;
lat. 15" 8 30', long. 145° 44'. Capt. Sanchez y Znyas says that it ia not better
than any other part of the coast where there are regular soundings. It is pro-
bably safe with S.W. winds (August and September), but it would be better to
go to Tanapag. During the rest of the year it would be impossible to remain
here on account of the heavy sea. The MagicientHf from Hawaii to Ilong
Kong, being short of fuel, came here to cut wood.
Mr. Harvey, the master of the steam-frigate, says : —
" lliis bay cannot be recommended to a sailing vessel, as the water ia deep,
and the anchorage so close to a coral reef bordering its shore, th- 'vith a
southerly wind there would be no room to weigh. The depth is J" n;homs,
over coral with sandy patches, at only a third of a mile from the bluff at the
head of the bay, decreasing rupidly to 3 fathoms close alongside the coral reef,
which nearly dries at low water. The Magicienne anchored in 18 fathoms,
with the S.W. point of the bay bearing S. \ E., about 2J miles; the S.E.
point, which is a bluff, E.8.E,, 1| mile; and a wooded bluff at the head of tho
!.
i
' I
■ r
I'll
i
' l;
'':
1U51
MARIANA UK LAIHIONK I.SLANF»S.
Imy, N N.W. \ NV., nearly a third of a iniliv Wlu-n tlic vonscl !<\viin}; l<> llio
ghorc tlu-ro wan ;• fiilln)m!», coral patplu-n, unrf; nl n cnhli-'it ltnj?th to tht-Hoiitliward of lu-r
anchor tluTC wan no hottotn at 70 fallioius. Tho I av \» well protected, Uiiij^
o|K;n only fronj M.S.K. U> S)iith.
" Supplift. — Thiii' ii* a plentiful >'ii] the eautward of the wooded
blud at the head of the bay. Tlu- rr»'w nf the Mayuimuf cut down and
brought on boanl 17'i fathuniH in *\x dayn, the wiHxi (rt owing cictear» to be no water on the
island exc.-pt whi>t is caught during the rai.is, and the rainy si'ason in August,
Sej»tember, and Octolnr. Cocoa-nuts, bread-fruit, and limes arc plentiful.
There are aUc many wild pigs and bullocks; the latter belong to the SpaniNh
government. I'igs, poultry, and fruit, can be obtained at the village.
** The few days the Mai/icienne remained in this Ijay the wind wm light
from the S.V.. during the day, and at night a light air from the land ln.twi'eu
N.E. and N.W.
" It is high water, on full and change, ia Magicienne Hay, at C" -Hj";
the tide rises about 2J feet."
Wind^. — In January, February, and March, winds from N.Pi. tr North i)re-
vail, with violent rain sijualls fchuradusj, veering in Ajjril Ut Kast and K.S.r,.,
with moderate weather when the wintl hauls t*) the South of l-last. In .Mav,
June, and July, the prevailing winds are from South and S \V., with good
weather unil les-'i rain, nM.ough it is still abundant. Krom August to Novem-
ber it blows mostly frcm the West, with heavy rain interrupted by violent
storms, the last two months being the hurricane seabuu. In December the
wind veer« thronj:!! N.W. to North and N.K.
FAKALLON I*E MEDINILLA, or Uml hUnul, about W miles N.N.K. of
iSiijpan. i.>> only 2 niile> long, N.K. and S.W., its breadth being much less. It
is a calcare.ua rock, about 50 ft. high, flat, with jH-rpendieular sides. It is
barren, and hns reddisli patches, «Fid on the South and West sides are some
very deep caverns or grottos. M. I)u])eiTey says that the South point is ter-
minated by a small \n\\, perhapg joined to the island by a low isthmus. At its
South part is a pieieed n>ck, through which a boat might pass. Freyeinet
called it Pointe da Grottet, and the island itself after the respectable governor
of (J'.iam.
Cajit. S;ineh( / y i^ayas, who cxiiniimd thii idanJ carefully, could InicL' no
I
ill
I ^
m
St .
ANATAXAN SAnUJUAN-FAUAM.ON DF. TOHRKS.
tliwarilot' lar
jlcclcd, being
till" HhoroB of
H body, wliitc
po)ilnr. The
if till" WlH)(b'tl
cut iKiwn mill
5 cliMtc ti) tho
He tu the coriil
e out so ntuch
e(j»>ul to 1 ton
(bin, but tho
watiT on the
Rou in AunuHt,
arc jdciitirul.
to the Si)unii»h
illiipo.
*iii(l was lijjht
I luml bi'twifU
t G- 4i-;
1. t( NDith pro-
iiMt and K.S.K.,
Kant, lu May,
\V., with gDOil
;»»»t to Novem-
ilfd by vioUiit
iKcLiiibcr the
milrs N.N.K. of
iiuu'h U'M. It
ir sides. It is
!,ide» ure soino
uh point i.s tiT-
slhniun. At ilH
mss. Kreyfinct
ctiiblc governor
could tr:n.x- no
ronombliinre between its form lUid the French plan.* Kither the fij;ure of the
island hiw ehai);;ed eoniiderubly. or else the |)htn is ilrawn from imagination ;
tlio b)W neck rind hummock eouUl not bo rccogniseil ; all appeared of the same
elevation.
Tho (iovcmor of the Nfrtrinnas stated that there existed ve^tij;os of a rrntor
on itH summit. It is undoubtedly of voleanic origin, and is (juite bnre of vege-
tation, the seo washing completely ov?r it in heavy weather. Itii centre u in
lat. l.'i" A9 20' N., long. Ufi" 0' K. •
ANATAXAN or Anatajan Island. 27 miles N.W, of the last, is about H
miles long, F.ast and West, and over 1^ mile wide. It has two very high and
steep voleanic peaks lying on the same parallel. To the 8.\V. only there is a
small point slightly ])rojeeting.
It was seen by the \aniiez 10 miles off, although the we.ither was not very
clear. It is very stecp-to all around. In the southem part only is a sort of
creek, in which, howi'ver, the water is so deep that a vessel couhl not anchor,
'i'hree peaks are seen from this part, one of which, it is said, is a volcano.
Perhaps a closer examination might discover a boat or other landing, because
the island was inhabited at the lime of the Spanish discovery. It i§ covered
with trees and bushes, among which the cocoa-nut is conspicuous. Lut. of the
centre, Iti' '20 N., long 1 »'> 40' F,.
8ABI0UAN ISLAND, 1« miles to tho N.N.E. of l.e preceding, aj-pcars to
be merely a high hill, of the fornj of an upright cone, with a nearly circular
base, H mile in diameter. It« summit is rounded, and seems to be of volcanic
origin. It was formerly inhabited, but is now completely deserted. P'rcycinet
says that it is almost witlusut vegetation. Sanchez y Zayas says that it is
covered with trees; lat. If) 41 \., long. 1 l'>" 47 E.
FARALLON DE TORRES or Zealandia Rockt.— The first of these names
is given from a former (iovernor of the Marianas, who gave a note of their
po>ition to all comntanders who arrived at (iuam. The second is that of the
vessel commanded by I'ajit. .1. FosliT, who drew attention to their existence in
1 f<.'>9. Their jircvious omission from the charta led to a scries of very remark-
able errors, as stated in the note below. f
• Tiip citptiin of th« .ViiriiK': ailils ih.il till the nor'hom islands of tho iirdupcl.iffj) w, ro
Tcry bniily npn wniiil; mid, hs will bo mpiitioned presonlly, tlio ch irt w.is mimifottly
VI ly hiirrinlly dniwn up.
t Thow) locks win< shown ns two points to tho S.W. of Onj^nn (})ut without nimo) on
Kspinusii's chart nf 1812. Thty w. m pu-s<y Pn)vcin>t, in
Isl'J, and that ccimmrtndur, \>vu\n posx.dsr.i of a curroct lint of the island* in their pro|H,T
order, applied the name I'ludras do Turn h to tho iHland of (Jiijfiian to tho North of it,
then traniiwsini? all tho correct mums ii|) t) A^'r;K:ln, which ho ljiIUhI Asuncion, p'acd
];h/,m at 3 loigui'H tu tho Nnrtii uf th« iel md pro|)«,Tly ho c lUnd, but which ho ciill> d Ala-
nmf,'iian. 'ITiin mipposod i.'.ltnd, whiih th.y thou^jtit ihvy saw iinpirf^ctly through the hazo
/km M') cxislrnei, and thus Ihis imaginary island, couplod with tho oinission of thu Pii-draa
i
]^-
111
I /
it
li
.'Fl
it'
:|i
'I:
lose.
MARIANA OR I,ADR(^NK ISLANDS.
The name Farallon in perhaps scarcely applicable to there. They nro not
pinnacled rocks above water, and therefore Piedras de Torrti$, the Torrti Rorkt,
best describes them. It may be that the heavy sea constantly beating on them
has reduced the height of these evidently volcanic peaks, since their first an-
nouncement. They were not seen by the Narran., but they were described by
the shipwr^-ckod |)foj)le ♦hey had on board, and especially by Salas, « pilot,
AS consiHting of Ihret rocks awash, each about as largo as a boat, occu-
pying n sjmce about a cable's length, more or less, in extent There is no ap-
jH'urance of soundings near them, and in fine weather the sea only breaks at
long invervols. Their |H)sition, as stated, accords with that given by Captain
Foster.
The Zeaiandia, under the command of the above officer, from New Zealand
to Shanghai, waa possiing between Guguan and Sariguan on December 31, 1858,
supposing the channel to b« quite clear and safe, ns shown by the charts. He
says: — "At 4 p.m. Bariguan Island bearing S.8.W., distant 12 miles; wind
light from the eastward ; ship steering W.N.W. about 4 knots ; breakers were
reported right ahead ; saw two large patches about three-quarters of a mile
from the ship ; altered course to ]>aHs about half a mile northward of them,
keeping a good look-out from the top-sail yard. At 4.20 p.m Sariguan Island
bore S. by W. ^ W., distant alxjut 11 or 12 miles, and the breakers in one
with the island, distant from the xhip about half a mile. The two patches bore
from eac'u other N. by K and S. by W., about a quarter of a mile apart, with
dark water l)etween and all around them ; the sea broke at times heavily."
The weather was thrt'utenin^, and the day closing, so that Capt. Foster did
not think it prudent to make a closer examination of them, but his careful ob-
servations place them in about lat. 16" 51' N., long. 145-^ 50' K.
OXJOUAN. a small island about 36 miles northward of Sariguan, is 2J miles
long, N.N.K. und S.S.W. Its breadth docs not much exceed a mile, and it is of
mwlerate height, much resembling the Farallon de Medinilla. Its North point
df Tnrw«, well known to tho luitiTOi to eiUt to the South of Ougunn, hvi lod to the con-
fusion ttb<.ivB alluilid to. This error was common to all chnrt* aftiT tho puhlicntion of
Duporrey's chart of lHi<> until 1866, wh«n dipt. Sonchoz y Znyno' rhsrt wsh piifili-.htfl \iy
tin- Spniii.sh (roTomnittrit from the ob«)rvHtit>n» ii;«dc in the A'(;rni*z, in l'anrhci'. y ZiivM devot** wrcml |>nK('* to the diNouMion ofthi* im}x)rtant error,
anil to his ]>«MM|s't> lftwe«!ii thi-i>i- iisl.'Uidi. ~ 'See ,4nu. lljiii., No. •Hi'i, pp. '240 250.)
He took from Agri^-an luid raffun (ifti^iii j^nHina wh't wore mikily l.m on Ihn rn'f in
qtii-*tion in AuKuit, 1863, and the launi-h wun afttTWird* wrwkud on I'n^.kn. The rt-clili-
cation thus niHdo by t'...- .Sp.mish oommitnder wmh c !ii|ili't4', Imt iva the origin of thii niittak'
is ito raunif'-bt it do hi re to wiy that Oui «:ui erroneously call d Faniilon do Tom-s; AlttmA,ian
\»,ii« aiUo'i Uuj^uan; I'lii/nn wax chIUmI A«ri>{an, sn im*,'in«ry i«l*nd lH.ir\K suhMtitulod for
I'HjfMn. Bfi«idt» thin anothir imiidfinary ^;roup, the Manyj lalot.H, wlto suppoeed to bavo
\tatUi seen iu the I'luntt. Imt do uot exi«l.
u
•f-^ ■^-*'
i
ALAMAGAN— PAOAN.
1057
They are not
i TorrM Rocks,
Miting on thetn
their first an-
e described by
Sttlas, » pilot,
K boat, oocu-
rhere is no ap-
only breaks at
'en by Captain
n New Zealand
ember 31, 1858,
,he charta. He
12 miles; wind
; breakers wore
irters of a mile
thward of them,
Sariguan Island
breakers in one
;wo patches boro
mile apart, with
ues heavily."
Capt. Foster did
t his careful ob-
hw! Uxl to the oon-
the ptiblicHiion "f
rt wuH piiMi-ho'l liy
» 1S04 ond 1865.
his iinjKiilHnt error,
). ■240 'i.V).)
li,«i on lh<> r<"f ill
'iijf.iii. Till) rtttill-
irits'lii i)f thi! in'iitiil*''
luini? iloKcriptiiiii-' i>f
• jjrofnT n»mas. It
Tovrcs ; AUmitiinn
lK-it\if !4u\)«lituUHl for
ru »ujip'je«d to hiivo
is the lowest; it is covered with vegetation, is jierpendicular, nn^ unapproach-
Klh' on ail side*. Freycinet gives it« position, lat. 17° 16 50" N., long.
145" 50' 15" E.
ALAMAGAN is almost exactly North of Ouguan, at 16) miles distant from
it. It is 2^ miles long, North and South, \^ mile wide, and is one of the highest
in the archipelago. Dn it arc two peaks, as seen from the West, the northern
one being estimated to be 2,31(5 ft. high; to the South and Fast the 8lo|)« of
the hills is extremely ra])id, and the rock, which descends to the sea, is com-
posed of bare lava. At its South end there are, however, some white and red
spots, and to the West a point covered with trees. The North side is not so
steep as the South. The high<-Rt point on the North side is o vast crater, from
whence Freycinet saw smoke issue, as was also the case with another to the
N.W , at two-thirds up the mountain. Lat. 17" 34 N., long. 145-' 51' K.
PAOAN, or Piii/on, about 2') miles North of Alamagan, was imperfectly seen
by Freycinet. Capt. Sanchez y Xayas says that it is about 8 miles long, N.K.
and S.W., and 2^ miles broad. At a distance it makes as two or three islands,
because its two ends arc mountainous, and are connected by a deep valley.
There are three active volcanws on it ; one of which is to the N.K., the others
to the S.W., the highest peaks being from MOO to 1,000 ft. in height. The first
is a conical mountain, from which there issued dense columns of smoke when
the Narvaez passed, on January 5th, 1H65. The two others to the S.W^. are
open craters on the large hill, in which the island terminates at this end. One
of them is enormous, and flames issued from the other. The valley between
the hills is covered with black sand and innumerable bushes. The tropical
vegetation reaches nearly to the summit of the mountains, except the N.K.
cone, which ijj quite bare.
Tiiore is very little water on the island, hut pigs and game may be got in
abundance. The Narvaet anchored otf the N.W, side, about the middle; the
Hpot may be known by a large rock, which at 6 or 7 miles off seems to be like
an islet. At 3 or 4 cables otf this is bad anchorage in 14 fathoms, bottom of
coral rocks. Landing is very difficult here, but about a mile to the N.K. of
this rock there is a low sandy Iwach. which has probably better anchorage and
easier landing. This low beach is a very narrow tongtie of sand, which sepa-
rates the sea from a large and very deep lag(x)n. The Governor of the Mariana.s,
who was on board the Narvaez, thought that by cutting through this U)ngue
an excellent harbour would be formed, but such a harbv .:r would be useless.*
The volcano at the N.K. end is in lat 18' 7 N., long 145 52 K.
• There is a lnlo of tr»,uuri> being buriwi on Ptisan, in sbout 1820 or 1822. The captain
of an EiikHsIi mhooncr csmo to Agana in order to »«ik for the tri-awuro ho had hotjod lioro
whoii captnin of nn Knglish hri^j, whirb had com.; from kodjo port in Peru or Chili at tho
time o£ Oi.' war of in>lt>t)endon<:e. The iuhabitAiiU ha 1 placed ihcir valuablos on Injiird the
North Pavifiv.
u r
M!^
j-V...^_
M>il W %**IM» M
I i
\
■•A
1058
MARIANA OR LADRONK ISLANDS.
AQRIGAW or Gri^an Iiland, 41 miles N. by W. i W. from Pagran, i« about
6 miles long. N.W. and S.E., and 2| milc« wide, having on it two high i>eaks,
apparentiy a former volcano. Wilkes, by an imjierfect observation, made it
to be 2,300 ft. high. To the S.W. of the island there is, from what M. Frey-
cinct was a«sur«d, a small plain, in front of which there is bad anchorage, on
account of the violence of the currents. Some Americans and Sandwich
islanders established themselves on the S.W. side of this island, but were
forcibly removed by ihe Governor of Guam, as before stated. Capt. Sanchez y
Zay&s thinks that the abore elevation given by Wilkes is very much in cxcds,
OH he considered it not more than two-thirds of that height.
Agrigaii, seen from a great distance from the South, assumes the form of a
perfect traptaium with two small eminences at the upper angles. It is safe all
round, and it is very sttH'p, The anchorage may be easily known, because it is
in front of the only .s.ii)dy l)each on the island. Bottom will not bo found till
within ■i cttbifs of the iR'nch, and then the depth is regular, from 15 to 17
f;i«hym^>, black «»nd. The only anchorage is that taken by the IS'arraet, in 1 1
fiithomn, with the S.W. jxjint of .Vgrigau Ijearing .N'.N.W., and the South point
S. fi-i^ E., about a mile from the laiuling-place, and 3 or 4 cables otf shore. To
the southward was a large light- coloured patch like shoal water, but there was
not less than »> fiithom?! waior on it. The landing is very bad. The steep beach
is of very coarsf Mack sand, v<'ry light, and evidently of volcanic origin.
(hi .\grsj.n!in are abunduKce of cocoa-nuts, bananas, and tropical roots, as well
as t larg'-' qxiantity of pig>i, go.tts, and poultry. A curing-csUiblishment was
formed here, .similar to that on Tininn, but for want of means of communication
it W!i8 nbandoiivd, liie -Vuriiiifi taking otTthe inhahitttnts. The island i.s evi-
di'nlly volcanic, hut it is stated then? are no lava streams, nor appearance of a
cratt-r, U8 formtrly .stated, hut (apt. fvnorr, of the Hsrtha, wnys that "luxuriant
vegetation covered the two volcano* up to their smoking craU'rs." The soil is
very fertile, and the island is coverernii>ni.f,i.
• M'tnifn or Manjiu IttumU have U)tn auothi^r diJHoulty in the hyiirov^aphy of Ui«
Mariana«. Thi y wm: iii»t <*t»t(Hi liy Ijk i'l-rouAC to b««r 'iM* W. from Anunciun, but
whcth«r to N N.W. or K ,S.W. w.>»» nut cioar In th< (i<<;i.iint ut K«vyoin»'t « v'y'» ch*r{. Hut M Ij» Pt'iouw- my% Oint hi> n«.\'\.:t «aw
\\\v I'rr.^aui, th^y were j.1.«.«h1 t<> tti« N.N.W. of Asuncion on t.h.t Fr«>i>ch and .M|«»nisii
chart* of 1«62, »o that th»'y Jinre haU i'mw po,«ition«i on the chart*, and, in .addition to thi*,
Uit? Admiralty t;hart gnro the nauii- to tho Urroc**'.
Tliii my»t,
itiir «teftin( aihv^ at w.i«.
f
ASUNCIOH or Assninption Island, 64 miles N. by W. from Agrigan, is a
perfect volcanic cone alwut a mile in diameter, and with a large crater on the
summit, which rises to a height of 2,848 ft. Its eastern side is of lava, and the
sea washes up it to a considerable height, at least 260 ft., or double the height
uf the ninsts, a certain indication of the great depth of the sea at its base.
Thert' is scarcely any vegetation on the eastern side. At the North end of the
island is a rock through which the sea has worn a passage. About a cable to
the North of this two rocky heads show themselves.
On the West side the slope of the mountain is less rapid, and fornu a per-
fect cone; but, like the other, the coast is perpendicular. Outside the southern
and lowest part of the island there are two or three rocks, but not more than
half a cable's length off. All this side is covered with a vigorous tropical vege-
tation. It is not known whether any one has landed on it since La Perouso
did on Decci;.".>jr 1 Ith, 1786, when he carefully observed its position on shore.
I.ia Porouse anchored here in .'iO fathoms, but the Nurvaez ceuld find no bottom
at this depth anywhere round the island.
ABuncion is very lofty, nnd is conso^.h'iH*m'!i$i»wnimmim
fl*
'^ I . •
1 u
\
■ 1
1060
MARIANA OR LADRONE ISLANDS.
mountain, crowned with a volcano in activity, for four or five columna of TWy
thick and black smoke wore seen to the S.W. of the summit at a spot which
rcflombled a crater. On the South, East, and North sides the coast is prr{>en-
dicular, and the sea boats heavily upon them. To the S.K. a large rock lies
against the coast, and near this are seTcral others, one of which is very rrmark-
ablf, resembling n shnrp-pointed steeple ; a similar rock lies on the S.W. side.
To the West the side of the mountain slopes more gradually, but there nre no
oif-lying dangers on this side. There is no landing, and only a little vegeta-
tion near the South shore. It is unknown if there is any anchorage. Accord-
ing to Commander Sanchez y Zayas, the summit is in laL ''O" 30' N., long.
145'^ 8' 40' E., but according to Capt. Knorr, of the German corvette II«rtha,
who landed on the South point in 1876, it is in lat. '20° 33', long. 144" 48f .
In 1877 it was sighted by the U.S. ship Alert, and its approximate position
calculated to be lat. 20^ 36', long. 145'^ 12'. The volcano on each occasion waa
emitting dense volumes of smoke.
It would thus appear probable that there are two islands, some 30 or 80
miles apart, in this neighbourhood, closely resembling each other. Captain
Knorr estimates the height of the island he landed on o^ 850 ft. ; its shape cir-
cular, with a circumference of about 5 milea.
n I II
!i
m'^
;>;':i
,, .J) .
m
Britomart Reef.— In 1 869, Capt. Bartlett, of the British barque liritomarl,
passed close to a reef, level with the water, and from 400 to 600 ft. long, in
Int. 19-" 18' N., long. 14P 34' E. It was unsuccessfully searched for by the
U.S. ship Alert, in 1881.
LIU D8AT I8LAHD. — This island was discovered by Mr. Lindsay, of the
British schooner Amelia, during a calm, on Christmas-day, 1848. It appeared
about 60 ft. high, and 4 miles in length, very borren, and of a dark brown
colour. Of its position, lat. 1!)" 20' N., long. 141" 84' E., its discoverer speaks
confidently, having proved the rate of his chronometer only two days previously
at the islands of Grigan and Asuncion.
But Capt. Bartlett, of the liritomarl, passed over this position in I86U, when
it was not visible from the mast-head in fine clear daylight, and it was also
searched for in vain by the U.S. ship Alert, in 1M81.
FLORENCE SHOAL.— Capt. E. Wadsworth, of the Florence, report* as
follows:— "April l.Uh, 1862, lat. 18" 6' N., long. 143" 18 E., we passed overa
shoal of 2 miles in extent ; gut a cost of the lead in 10 fathoms, eurul, but was
off the bank before we could sound again. l'reviou.s to so\iuding we passed over
some places much shoalcr, probably not more thait '> or 6 fathoms ; I cuUcd it
Florence Shoal." No further report has been made.
*;
DETACHED ISLANDS AND SHOALS.
1061
AMOn Shoal. — On tho old charts a shoal is shown at 140 miles East of
LuKon, in lat. 17° 35' N., long. 124° 50' E. It may have been seen by Capt.
Ayer, in the Earl of Clare, March, 1848, who saw bottom of large white shells
and dark-coloured rocks, the water not discoloured, but took no soundingt, in
lat. 17° 50' N., long. 124'' 40' E.»
!■]
Dagay Troilin Reef— Capt. Denier, of the French barque Dugay Trouin,
states that he saw a reef in lat 19" 5' N., long. 124° 43' £. It broke very
little, with a calm sea. — Tijdschri/l voor het Zeewezen, 1875, p. 240.
The Philippine Iilandl, which limit the North Pacific to the westward, be-
tween the parallels included in this Chapter, are described in our Directory
for the Indian Archipelago, ftc, 1878, pages 585—606 and 8'
i:
^11 OJi
H ISLANH
I
THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
1063
A'^"
found in hii first intenriew two pieoM of iron, which could only be derived
from Kuropeani, a piece of iron hoop S inches long, and an apparent point of
a broadsword. The feather head-dreeses, in the form of European helmets,
and the grotesque heads of the same mAterial, which he procured, and are now
to be seen in the ethnological room of the British Museum, also indicate a
similar origin of ideas. Added to this, ihc adoration paid to Cook, as the
looked-for god, combined with the other traditionary uvidcncc, prove that some
former, though nearly forgotten, intercourse had taken place. He that as it
may, tu Cook undoubtedly belongs the real discovery of the Sandwich Islands
an now known.
It will be unnccesRory to enter into the details of the progrcHM of these
islands in their early days of Euro])ean intercourse.
After their discoverj- they were not visited till 1786, when Capts. Portlock
and Dixon anchored at Oahu. La I'urouse viHited Maui about the same time.
Vancouver spent several months hero in 179'i and 17l«3. He introduced the
present breed of cattle, and during his stay the island of Hawaii was ceded to
the Hritish crown. The first missionaries were landed at Kuirua, in Hawaii,
February 4, 1820, from Hoston, United States. Some from England soon fol-
lowed, and their zeal and indu.<«try soon elTccted a wondrous change in the
character of their converts ; and one most prominent circumstance arising out
of it was the visit of the King Libo-Liho and his queen, with a native suite,
to England, in 1822. They unfortunately died soon after their arrival. H.M.S.
Jilonde, under the command of Lord Byron, was commisaioned to convey their
b(Mlic8 back to their kingdom, a proceeding which made a most favourable im-
Dression in Hawaii. Matters would have gone on well but for religious in-
tolerance. I'hc Protestant missionaries, both English and American, had in-
creased ; but in 1 827 some Bomish priests were intro?
X
II
r i: j!
10ft4
THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
Mi i ■■
This interfer«nc« wm mbftequentlj adjiuted, and the pawn of tho king
Mttled on • firm baiU. A conatitution iiin)|ilc, but utringout, and adapted to
tho rvquiromenta of tho {tcople, waa promulgated in IH64, and the integrity of
tlie kingdom haa be«n guarantovd by a tripartite treaty > tween Kngland,
France, and the United States. The goTernment ia monarohicnl, and baaed
ln^^c■ly on that of Great Hritain. Tho king governi by a cabinet and a legiti-
latiTc chamber. Kach island haa iu viceroy, and life, pro]>erty, and justice arc
aa flccure aa in any country in the world. Unfortunately jHirty pulitics and in-
trii^uca mar at timea what might otherwise b« the perfect happiness of a simple
community.
The natives and their habits have been too often dnteribed to need much
being said hen;. When Cook first Unded, their uitoniNhment won citrcmo.
Thry wcru abt)ve the middle siM, and well made; their complexion rather
darker than tboae of Tahiti, and altogether not so handsome a |>e«iplo. Most
of their former .uatoins, so much dilated on in tho curly accounts, hnvo pasM>(i
away, and are generally superseded by European habits and manners, not
IM>rnup8 altogether advantageous to them.
The CKtimate of CWk. in 1771*. that there were 400,000, is generally be-
lieved to be much too large. Probably 300,000 would be nearer the ♦ruth.
One thing is certain, that there must have been a vastly greater populatiim
then than now, as is cvidencc, 10H,579. The decreaxe ap|K.>ar8 to
have been in progress almost from the date of their discover)*. One cause, at
least, has added to this : the number of young men who left tho islaiKLs in
whalers and other ships, and never returned. Another cause wan the niorulity
of 1848, the "year of dcoth," when it is supposed that 10,000 were swept
from the islands by the measles, whooping-cough, and ititluenza combined.
The last census, taken in December, 1H84, gave the following as the result
of the population, by which it will be seen that the nunilx^rs are increasing,
but this is owing to the foreign element, chieHy coiitiisting of ('l)iuese ami
Portuguese immigrants, employed on the sugar plant^itioiiH, &c. At the census
of 1878 the natives numbered 44,088, tlie hulf-CH«tes 3,420, and the foreigners
10,477. In 1884 the natives numbered 40,014, and the half-castes 4,218.
Besides the islands thus enumerated there are Moluiini, Lenua, Kaula, and
l^ihoa, which ore uninhabited, barren, and very small. The urea of the islands
in according to tho estiiuate of the Hawaiian governiovut survey.
if'
TIIF, SANDWICH ISLANDS.
1068
pr of tho king
uid aduptod to
the intogrity of
wwn Kiigland,
ital, and bwed
lu'l and n IfK'"^
and jmtice arc
politic* and in-
iueM of a Bimple
to need much
nt mw cxtrcino.
>mplexion rathi-r
a j)et)plo. Moat
unU, have pa»»o<'
aid mauncrf, not
, it general »;• be-
nearer the ♦rulh.
greater population
^•ing waste on nil
ilu, on Hawaii, it
j)eople muit have
been rapid. The
ig to tlu- ccniua of
ecreatte apiK-ars to
>ry. One cauw, at
left the inlands in
« w«» the mortality
10,000 were swept
enza combined.
)wing aa the reault
XT* arc increasing,
iijg of Chini'se ami
I, 4tc. At the census
>, and the foreignertJ
c half-casU'a 4,218.
Lenua, Kaula, and
ic area of the isluuds
survey.
I'ltllKKNT I'ol'UI.ATM'* or THS KlKUDnM.
Arrn "n. (^o. m. F()rci«n«ri. Nutivos.
Hawsii .,,
M«iii ....
Onhii....
MuUkKi
IiitiiBi . , .
Kikimi . . .
Niihnii .
Kiiliulnuo,
4,210 1I.U29
760
fiOO
270.
imI
r.iK) ,
l>7^
O.J
0,401
272
Total.
6,740
.■5, »!7 1 vessels touched
here, chiefly whalers. ( )f the moral ailvantagc to the natives of this influx of
licentious sailors, little can be said, but it brought much wealth. After that
year there was a very sudden and great decrease. The amount of sperm and
whale oil, and whaUltone, decreased to less than one-half, or one-third of what
it was in IMJH, when it was at the maxiiuum, 2:^1', Ifi I gallons sperm, :i, .').') l,.'t»2
gallons whale oil, and l,r>14,710 lbs. whalebone; reduced to 47,85".) gallons
■perm, 782,OH(> gallons whale oil. 572,900 lbs. whalebone, in IHCO ; and these
items became reduced, in 18(')2, to les.s than one-third of what they were io
1800. Since this jieriod this source of revenue has much declined. In 1881
only I'J whaling vessi'ls cii'led here.
The development of commerce and the incrca.se of the population in Califor-
nia, and the consociuent trade which has steadily progressed with San Fran-
• Amonjj; tho morn rocont works conUiininH; doscriptiomi of thi'su isl.iiul.s. wo miv men-
tion "Ndithirii Ciilifuniiu, Ori'gon. ainl Ui.i Snudwith islatub," by C. Noriihotf, ls74 ;
"The Hawniian ArthiptliKo," an iiitoroatiug suriua of Uttors, by InabolU L. UirU, I.S75 ;
" Difl Lwward-Inscln il.T Itiiwiiii.(irupi).." vnn Francis Itirtrh.ini, in MitthfiliinK>Jn aus
J. rerthcs' (loographiwhtT Anstiilt, 1S7S, pp. 203-7; " Dio Sundw oh-Insoln," by Graf U.
Anrep-Elmt, I/eipzig, 1«8.5 ; " Tho Honolulu Diiectory," an annu.i! publication; and •'Tlio
llawi*iian Alninnar and Annual."
Aorth i'acijic. Q
1 .
1:-
li
m
•^•
( 1
10f)G
THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
t !
i ! !
r
1
^mn
1 1
t
5ir
CISCO, and also the atlvanci? of llritlsh Columbia, and the intercourse with the
free port of Victoria, are now the real •o»rco8 of pronpcriHy to the Hawsuinii
IsknJu. They niny bo ocWKiilornl as the "West Indies" of \.W. America,
from their feitiiity ami m(at niJity for the j;rowth of stigur, coffee,
cotton, ^c, capable of supplyiiitj liic whole of the countries on the N.E.
Pacific with these uccossaricp, whicli arc now admillcd into the United States
free of duty.*
There arc n\imorouB f>ugnr-p1antntions on the various islands, but chiefly on
Maui, some of them being coraierScd by railway with the portM of shipment. In
1S8<, fi.'KCiH.') tons of ouj^r were expurted, and 4,!.'.58 tons of rice. Wool ia
also largely grown, the export in 1881 amounting to 407,623 lbs. There were
above 1, 000, OCX) »he«'p, including large flocks of merinou, on the inlando. The
island of Niihau was pupcli.iscd fioin the ;.;nvernnient by a i^eotch family from
(':i(iterbury. New Zealand, for a sheep farm. Cotton, which was largely grown,
failed on aeeoimt of drought and from wtirnis, and cofTce also suiFcrs from
blight. In 188J, the value of tine exports amounted to 7,977,^09 dollars, and
the import*; in 1881^ principally clnhini^, proviKicms, ironware, and lumber, to
5/)J4.2 {0 doll.'HR, the trade beiog chiefly with the United Slaten. Thv coinage
is similar to the Am'.'rican.
Excellent coal from Vancouver In^.and can be had for almut 1 1 dollars, or
44s. per ton, Australian ctvxl for the same price, uud the best WeUh stoani coal
at about 14 dollan,, or 5f>«. jH?r U)n.
Since the completion of railway communlcntion betwtcn New York and
San Franci.'«co, liues of steamers liave been establitihird iKtween the latter port
and China and Japan, and aUo to New Zealand and AusKralia, the steamem
on the latter service calling at the Sandwich Islands twice monthly. On the
completion of the Canadian Pacific Kail way. it it alao probable that other
lines of steamers will be established. nomc of which wnutd cail here. There
is also a liiu> of fine steamers ruiiuing between Sun IVaucisco oiui Honolulu
twice a month
The Windi, which arc most prevalent in the Hawaiian Archipelago, are
thoft<> froni the north-eastward. This trade wiiu!, which prevuils fi.r a gri'al
portion of the year, is inlf rnipted when the 8un la in high South latituiie, or
during the northern winter. From the geographical position of the isUnds
near to the tropic, the nortlicni edge of the ira-le wind locedvt to the *»utli-
Murd of their latitiMle in this se«s lutitudn Soiilh thi«t ih>>»e \»»ttn.iy ara North, arc at lUo prosoot J.ty
aoarly thirty tiaiis (fipntfr th^n tho«o of th« Sauxtmich liUnds, whilnt the latter havo
several tim^<« ^rmtft areii and rivrtilahie liind, ss well hi« ^rAut<>r 'Jivuniily of ditnatu miil
Mxf-urcts, it will b«3 rcsdily sci-n wlut un optsninj^ w pre*«nttd for fulur* c«mini'rcu, Hii.i
huw vali:«l.l.j this tradi' vn'iy h<,ioiu« to tJroat Uril*in, especially it Vittori* bo pr«sorvo«l
tu a ittM jfort. - Ml . Ci'n>ulGnural Syttf', l.'«65.
•^ H
IS^
TTIK SAN'nWlcn ISLANDS.
1067
iTiwrflc with llio
to the Hawiuitiu
■ N.W. America,
of »ng»r, coffee,
rit>8 on the N.E.
thn UniteJ States
U, but chiefly on
In of »hij)iii<"nl. In
of rice. WiKil ia
i Iba. There were
the i»latnl8. The
eotch family from
wn« hirgely grown,
J aUo sulfers from
77, ','0'.' %hicij blew over the low iatamus. At nijjht, calms
prevailed near all the jislands.
Tli« Climale of the Sandwich Island-t is generally temperate and healthy, for
a subtropical region ; it would appear to resemble that of the WcHt Indies,
though more temperate in the higher lands, being not too hot to prevent whit«
men working, even in agricultural pursuits. From the constant nature of the
wind, the temperaturn and climate generally vary on ditfercnt sides of the
islands, and from their insular character and their great elevation, the clouds
are intercepted, and rain is consequently abundant in some localities, and
drought the characteristic of others. 'Ihu.s the North uide of Kauai is ii'
cooler than tht South side from this cau^e, and it rains 9 months of the year,
and from this th« country is clothed in perpetual green. On tlie West side of
Hawaii, on th« other hand, raiu seldom falls on the coast, and a rainy day
once A year is considered remarkable. The range of the thermometer on the
windward side of ihe islandt, is from .')4- to hfi" ; on the lee side it seldom falls
so luw as the firmer tempenitun?. The climate is healthy, none of the uiter-
tropical diseases Arc known, uor do fc.Ter, ague, or cholera occur.
Bishop Statey gives the following ms a brief summary of the climate. Situated
only just within the limit of the northern tropic, and in the region of the N.E.
trades, which blow the griaf.er part of the year, and convey the ocean vapour,
eoadensed into clouds, over r.h« laountnjni* ami table lands, then to fall in fer-
tilizing showers, the country eiijoys a luxuriant and delicious climate. The
average annual temj)ernture is 77' P'alir., with only a few degrees of variation
above and bel(rw. Hut th« local climates are varied, dejjcnding on aspect and
elevation. At Waimon, on a plat»an about 4,000 ft. above the sea level, in the
N<>.rth of Ilftwuii. a fire in your bed-room is necessary. On the other hand the
houses at Honolulu and many other places are built without chimnc\s. no tires
being needed at any period of the year. Generally speaking, there is moro
rain on the windward than on tl;e leeward sides of the island. Hence th« rich
Lues of liio casicru sloijes of liawuu, eovired with verdure and cultivation
i
kW
<•»''■„
m
H
. j'-'yiii . w^"->j'^-f'^
(
■ t i
thu
I ! :j !
lOfiR
TIIK SANDWirn ISLANDS.
contrn?t strongly with the bare and arid look of the coast on the greater part
of the western side.
There is no trojjical wet season, in the ordinary sense of the term — that is,
at the summer ept>ch. On the contrary, the wettest jiart of tlie year is when
the sun's vertical is farthest removed from the northern tropic, viz., in De-
cember and January. Then abundant rain falls, storms of great violence,
called A'onat, sudder.ly arise, and the inter-islaud navigation has to be sus-
pended 'lSf.8).
On the West side of Hawaii the land and sea-breezes are very repular ; there
are also sstmn'j North winds, but the most severe gales are those from S.W.,
which, as stated, the natives term kona. These last from a few hours t-> two
or even three days, and arc followed by ruin ; they are seldom strong enough
to injure the houses.
The CurrenU in the immef the Japanese
archipelago for Vedo, but encountering a typhoon, was driven to sea. After
wandering about the ocean for ten or eleven months, they anchored, on the la.'it
Sunday ofDecemlK-r, 1832, near the harbour of Waiaka, Ouhu. The Hawaiians.
wlien tliey saw a strange j>eople, much resembling themselves in person and iii
many of their huhits, said, " It is plain now we come from Asia." How fur
their unwilling course was due to current of course cannot be exactly ascer-
tained, but it would ap])ear probable that, being blown off to the northward,
tiie Kuro Siwo. a current relatively similar to the (iulf Stream of the Atlantic,
may have carried them eastward, and then within range of the south-westerly
vurreut, which drifUi piue limber,
THE SANDWICH ISLAN'DS.
1069
the greater pnrt
(> term — that is,
ihc year is when
»pic, viz., in Do-
f grodt violence.
II has to be bus-
ty repular ; there
those from S.W.,
w hours t> two
im strong enough
tirnt sight wouhl ™
unil ut other times
)e governed by the
iiu8t a fresh breeze,
lin the influence of
ontestably demon-
some general luw.
from tt single pine
i was more singular
.1 end of Kauui in a
circumstance of fir
I is by no means un-
: had come froni the
ce be supposed, that
n the current drifu
wo have noticed the
at the entrance of
ic, a junk latlen with
antlw .)f the Japanese
riven to sea. After
anchored, on the la."it
ahu. The Ilawaiians.
Ives in person and iu
•m Asia." How far
Kit be exactly oscer-
(tr to the northward,
:ream of the Atlantic,
of (he south- westerly
Sir Edward Hclcher experienced a strong current to W.N.W. when off
Honolulu, and it frequently runs at the rate of IJ miif por hour. These con-
Binc of the fairest parts ol tnc islaud was thus in a single day converted
til
J'fo
II
tf$^
i^
1070
THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
a?
ill
iulo a black-looking, desolate tract of cinilers ami nmd. In many places in
Kau the ground opened, chasms of unknown depth were formed, whence buI-
phurous exhalations were emitted ; a fiosure, some miles in length, exten'rert<.>ighout the archipelago there is every evidence of their upheaval, and
tlie datos of these elevations arc manifest in the conditions of the different
islands. Those to the westward are the most ancient, Nihoa and Niihau are
the oldest; Kauai, Molokai, and Maui follow; and Hawaii, the largest and
most recent, is still in activity. But although it is awcrted that the western
islands nre the oldest, it may not be strictly correct, except in the sense that
the evidence of recent volcanic action is least evident tlierc. But everywhere
there are marks of a gradual or convulsive elevation of the group. On Molokai,
in the middle of the islands, coral is found at 500 ft. elevation, and in Kauai
coral beds lie at 4,000 ft. above the sea. It is in Hawaii itself, however, that
the grandest evidence of the plutonic origin of the islands is most evident and
active. In the other islands lava streams and extinct craters are recognisable,
but in the great island some of the most terrible pucnomena of volcanic dia-
turbauce have been shown in late years, as noticed previously.
There is very great variation between the orthography used by the early
voyagers and that subsequently adopted by the missionaries on a more intimate
knowledge of the language. The latter mode io, of course, to be considered as
the CO. rcct one, anu is that placed first in those pages.
'4
a
¥
HAWAII, the south-eastern, and by much the largest of the group, is called
(M'hi/hf« by C'i>ok and others; Kotzebue calls it Wahi; Freycinet and others,
Ott'hyhi. All these words are representations of the same sound.
Hawaii is of a somewhat trianf^ular form ; the West side, running generally
N. by W. i W. and S. by E. i E., is nearly 100 miles in length between the
North and South points; the N.E. side is 76 miles, and the S.E. .>»ide is 60
miles long ; so that its whole circumference may be taken na about 250 geo-
t graphical, or 288 Briiish statute miles.
The mountains of Hawaii do not ascend in peaks, as do many other volcanic
I islands, such &s Kimco or Tcneriffe, but rise gradually and comparatively un-
ibroken, particularly from the southern .shore, t« the iofty summit of Mauna IxMi.
^Its appearance altogether is less romantic and picturesque than Tahiti, but it
is more nmjViitio and grand.
There are but few inland settlements on the East and N.W. parts of the
Usland, but in (general the interior is an uninhabited wilderness. There is a
past ceutrul valley between the three great mountains, a great desert of lava.
lof every known kind, it is only the northern plain, tlio eastern 8loi)e, and
|»ome jwrtions of the South and West, which are productive, and where are to
|bc found sugar estates, and cattle " ranches " and sheep " runs " equal to any
fin the world.
There are three principal mountains in Hawaii, Mauna Kea in the N.E..
. «■
m
j ■ -
m
?•»•
Bouthernmosi o^ . ,uounUin lo ' prevail, an" ^'^b
tnrs Although R 9»«^ . ^un^mU froHt* V ,y^^^ iant«
tains, w)'-'' ,„i in *o""*" ^ » »,U of cone craitr"'
„„,i.e.-..»« l«'*- ""> „ ,,„ tcel. .„,i to b. one ot (be
«»„a L0» ."• "■^'i^ AW,.»Bb "" '»""'•;,,.. l-n .ncrc«-B.
.UU w be ranVcd -"^ * , ,„„. ,he »™;"'"" ° ' l„.Uy e» i" »»'*7
form i. *»' »• »" " " li, .« •««'■■"'''"'• "' , „41 Tbe b-Bb"' 1»"
o b.W »' *^ """"""vet .3.'^" «• ■'"' T, »"«. »» *- "•;'■
U«r ob«.T«»W'»' ""'"V,,, .^luK miles. .-'1 1""% j Thi. " *°
rflleb.ae.e„...e.«Wc^_, :„, ^^ ^„^„, er^P- -^,„. „,,„ ,„U....o
I
HAWAII— IIILO BAY.
1073
(1 on ft
formed
ountain
which
Vancouver),
cipal moun-
lalcr. vrhich
surrounding
8, or hiUs of
8 on iU i^i'les.
be one of the
in 1-XCCS9, it i<» ■
,eon incrcasins;.
;»a\ crater. lt»
yon its northern
servatu.nft nv.vile
he hit;hest part
•,0 ft. a^"^*' ^***'
wl extensive one,
,9 all those won-
^^1. This is the
boon among the
his active volcano
real measure uniu-
,, and to the Kn»t
,.„« elevated 4.400
l.lerm^ ruins ; w^at
,^,. -l-o the S.li- "f
it is a line of craters, from some of which n great eruption occurred May 31,
1840.
Having thus desorihed briefly and imperfectly these, the most wonderful
features of the Pacific, wc pass on to the coast, commencing with tlic S.E.
Cape Xumokahi, or h'apnho Point, the eaNtcnuiiost projection of Hawaii,
has some sunken rocks off it. Tlio country is exceediiigly fertile ; gu^ar-cane
grows here in abundance, coffee suceeods well, as do indigo and tacca, from
which arrowroot is made. The coa.st to the N'.W. is a precipitous shore, about
16 ft. high, on which the sea beats with violence at all times. It is bestrewed
with Inva streams, apparently of old date. At -i miles from the East point is
Puna, where there is a large church, but no village, as the houses are much
scattered. Hunakiki, a small village, is 1^ mile from I'una. At 4 J miles from
the East point is a spot where an extensiTc stream of lava enters the sea, calle fathoms about 2 cables off it. At its head, and off the town
Bf Hilo, the dej)th of 5 fathoms is found at from 3i to 5^ cables off, the depth
A'orth Pacijic. g j^
I' '■
■?\\
, ■:' r I
,,.1*1.
t :-T' '■' '
:«T
i*
U
.^rf?-
mm
mm
—rTltum»mm i .. r
1074
TJIE R^WmViril ISLANDS.
m
ill I
i ■
thraoe (lecrtMisinp gradually to the shore. At HJ cables E««t of Hilo is the
Tillage of W'hyeatra,, and here is the best landiiiK place for boats, tlioiigh it is
catty to land anywhere on tlie beach in proper boats. At 4 cables N.N.K. of
Whyentea is (\noa-uul Ishtnil, lyinj? close to the coast, in lat. 1'.)' 43 51' N.,
lon^;. l.'i.'i"" .')' l.'> W., with some rocks extending I J cable N.W. of it.
Blonde Reef.— At nearly a mile K. by N. of Toetw-nut Island a bank of 1 .J
to 3 fathoms rxtcMxls 1 j mile off shore to the W.N.W., of irregular form as
shown on the chart, and leaviiif; a chanml threcMiuarters of a mile wide lie-
tween its western edp' and the West shore of the l)oy, with a depth of •; to
1 1 futlioms in it. When the wind blows strong, a heavy surf breaks upon this
reef, but inside it is smooth. Its width averages about half a mile.
Tlie anchorage, which is shellered from the N.K. by Hlonde Itcef, is in ft to
H futlioms. sliir muddy bottom, the former deptii being touuv! Lantward of
('(>c(iu-n\it Isliuiil. and the dfcper water to the N.W. of it. It is only exposed
between North and \N'. by N., from which tpiarter the wind never blows hard
in summer, and but very rarely in the winter; tmly one northerly gale had
been felt in two years. The tide rises about I ft., high water at sunset, and
low water at «laylight. being influenced by the sea and land breezes.
The harbour of llilo, witii little expense, could be made one of the safest
and most commodious in the I'aeifie. Hy constructing a breakwater ou the
reef northward of Cocoa nut Island it would be perfectly safe, landlocked, anaeious than any
other bay or harbour on the island, and it is uot subject lu vioIei)t gales from
any quarter.
>>upplie« of fresh meat can be obtained, but vegetables aiid fruit arc srnroc.
Firewood also can be purchased. There is a golantcd with pine-upplos, and the soil covered with a rank vegetation. Waiakea
I'oint is on the opposite side of the bay from llilo, at rather more than a mile
off; the path between leads along a sandy beach, ou which the surf continually
breaks, and at times with great violence.
'• The scene which tho island presents, as viewed from the anchorage in
llilo Bay, is both novel and splendid; the shores are studded with cxten.sive
groves of cocoa-nut and bread-fruit trees, interspersed with plantations of
sugar-cane. Through these numerous streams are seen hurrying to the ocean ;
to this succeeds u belt of some miles in width, free from womla, but clothed la
verdure ; beyond is a wider belt of forest, whose trees, as they rise high fr«m
the sea, change their character from the vegetation of the tropics to that of the
I
>!
'•'•■
1076
THK SANDWICH ISLANdS.
!.
ft
m
'fril
i|^
]H)lar regions; and, above all, towvr th« anow-cupiH'd summiU of tho moun-
tains."— (Wilkes, vol. ir., p. no.)
Hilo, viewed from the harbour, presents much the Mine tropical appearance
an other partH of the iHlamlN, and ns a punoriiinic view it ih not aurpn.trted iit
beautv and grandeur of Hcenery by any other H]>ot in tlie kinj^oin. 'l'lier« is a
luxuriouHneMt and freshness in tho vcKotation, a iivin(?(^reen in the verdure and
foliage, that combine to present an ohnoNt jwrfect j)iet«ire. 'I'he cret«eeiit .iweep
of the bay, ending with tlie cluster of cocoa-nuts on the i^and, the towerinjj
heights of .Mauna Kea behind, tlie mitjeittic dome of Muuna Loa, all help to
form a landscape scene seldom e here in Jime, lH-15 : —
The anchoroge in Hyron Hoy is oj)on to oil winds from North to K. by N.,
being only Hheltered in that tlinvtion by an extensive sunken reef, Klondc
Ilecf, which sufficiently breaks the sea to render a nhip comporatively safe
behind it. The pilot told me that during his residence of twenty years here
he had seen some very strong gales from the N.H., but hud never known any
vessel suffer by them ; yet I am of opinion that on such occasions a vessrl
would tiad it very heavy riding, and should be provided with good ground
tackle.
There is seldom any difficulty experienced in entering this bay, as the sca-
breere blows right in, and should it be ever so light, with the iissistanee of the
swell astern, and bouts towing if necessary, the onchornge will be gained in
safety. But the egri'ss is not so easy ; it is often attended with difficulty, and
sometimes with risk. The channel between the reef and the shore is rather too
narrow to allow u square-rigged vessel to work through, unless she be a small
one, and then it should be only with a commanding breere.
To sail out of Hyron Hay, a ves,sel should start with the first of tho land-
breeee, which generally comes off soon aft^-r midnight, so as to get a gtnjd offing
b«;fore it ceas»8, otherwi.se, if daylight is waited for, tht land wind will »eldouj
hold long enough to take a vcsnel sufficMently off shore to k-avc her in a s;ifo
position ; and should the s«^a-liree7.e fail to blow home to the coast during the
day, which not unfred a vessel a little inside the
North extremity of lilonde liccf, which may be bt?n from a slight elevation
HAWAII— NORTHEAST COAST.
1077
•bore thp deck. There u a long gulley running up the land in a Boutherly
directiun from Cocoa-nut Cove, which forms a good object to 8tecr for when
once made out, as it leadn clone to the entrance of the channel ; it appoan
like a dark mark in tbo laud, uud there is nothing in that vicinity which re-
sembles it.
The Coaat to tbo northward of TTiloisnomcwbnt peculiar ; it is a steep bluff,
rising about 'iOO ft. ; this is cut into snuill breaks, ciiIUmI here " gulches,"
within -hich the villiiges arc generally situated, and thenatires grow hurtanns
and taro. ThpRc gulches are rayiucs from HIK) to 1,000 ft. deep, which have
been apparently worn by wuter-courses. There is no landing for boats, for all
along the coast the surf beats on the rocks with gri:at violence.
Ueyond llilo Hay the N.F.. coast of Hawaii is a le«> shore, withotit shelter or
anchorage. The coast is firm and compact, terminating generally in steep
rocky cliH's, with a few Muiall indi'iited bays, rendered easily accessible to the
native caniR-s by ttio sandy beaches that bound them. From these rugged rocky
cliffs many streams of water fall into the ocean.
Laupahot, several miles northward of Hilo, was the great pulu depot for this
side of the mountain, and i.-> a pleasant-looking humlet, situated at the mouth
of a deep ravine.
Capt. Sir Edwurd Belcher approached the.se i.slands from the E.S.E.,.Iuly 7,
1H37, and pacsing within 3 or 4 miles of the breaker line, witnessed those
numerous cascades resulting from tlio showers emanating from the heavy clouds
which cappoJ the summits of Maui and Hawaii. " No description can convey
the idea of the number and variety of the silver threads which they • xhibited ;
and a sketch, including twenty leaps within lUU or iJUO yards, would appear
almost a burlesque, yet such was the fact."
The south-eastern portion of this section of the land has a very drear}- aspect ;
Vancouver soys it was jjorfectly uncultivated, and nearly destitute of habita-
tions ; those which are to be neea are small, and thinly scattered. Advancing
to the N.W., the population and cultivation increiwe. At about 15 miles from
Urulakaka I'uint (^lat. 20' a ), which is called by Nancouvcr the N.I',. point,
tiic coast is composed of a clu.siir of remarkably high, .steep, rugged, and
loniantic clilfs, discharging from their nuktcl summits inanv rapid cataracts
into the ocean. The rushing of these impetuous torrents down the black
barren surface of the rocky cliffs, contrasted with the enchanting, cultivated,
and populous country to the Kast and West, and behind this dreary frontier
for a considerable distance up the sides of the lofty mountiiins, on approaching
them in the oiling present u very beautiful and picturcst^ue appearance. Nearly
in the centre of these cliffs is a tolerably deep, small bay, off the U'uimurtu
Valley, much resembling in api)earancc, and most other respects, the bay in
the island of St. Helena; but it seems too much exposed to the sea and the
prevalent wind to be an eligible place for shipping. At 3 miles to the west-
II
J-
».-:
'I
Vf .
n
1078
Till". SAM)WICII ISLANKS.
ill
1^1
,.' i
III-
wiinl of lliis l»ny, off tlu? wcstoni ostriniity of these cIKTm, lio iomc rocky iilct*,
II little (Ustntu'e from the liuul.
NVi'ntWHrd of thoHt' clilfs there ore wmndin^* off kIiofo, nn Vuncniiver fouiisereaks.
Light. — A fiifd hriyht light is exhibited as a guide to the anchorage of
Kawuihac; it i« shown on the North side of the shallow channel loading to
the pier, and is elevnWd about SO ft. above the sea. and is visible 10 miles.
With the light bearing K.N.K. there is good anchorage in h or G fathoms, about
a quarter of a mile from the shore.
On approaching this bay from the westward, a conspicuous white tomb will
be first seen appearing like u church steeple, then the white liglithouse, north-
wnrd of which there is a deep valley. 11. M.S. h\intome anchored in 'J fathoms,
R.ind, about 4 cables from the shore, with the lighthouse bearing K. by N., the
•I 1
HAWAII- KAWAIIIAK HAY.
1079
toml) E. i N., ami the Morni N.K. by E. } E. A ri'd Awoy in moored alMmt
10(1 yuriU KuHt of 'nil! poNitioti for tlic mail iitcamer. — Lteut. Chambri, 1877.
Vancouver anrlioreil in thin bay February 14, 1703, nnil again on February
2H, 17U1, in 2A fathoniR, on a bottom of fine brown nand and mud on the firHt
visit, and on a Btitf clay and good holding-ground un tho second, the points of
the bay bearing N. iWi" \V. ond S. 31' W. ; tho Morni, which is also con-
•picuous in pointing out the station, N. tlH' K. ; ond the wntering-plaoe at tho
distance of about \\ mile, being the nearest shore, 8. 79"' E. The Morai, or
temple, is a eonnpicuouM object, and a good leading mark into the anchoriige ;
it stnnils on a bnrirn eminentH- to the Houthward of the village, and is to I o kept
on a line with n small saddle liill, on the eiuitern land, rlescending from tho
higher parts, over the village of Toeaigh, on the North side of the bay. Its
Houth point, descending gradually from llualalni, and forming n low point, boro
by compau S. 31^ W. ; within this point, on the rismglnnd, are some elevated
hummocks; the third of these from the point, forming a kind of saddle hill in
a line with a low, ])rojectiiig, black, rocky point, in the middle of the bay,
bearing ti. 22 ' W., is u further direction, and a cross mark for this anchorage.
Ob sounding round the ship, about a fourth of a mile to the8.W.,a very small
patch of coral rocks was found, where the water was only 10 fathoms in depth,
but increatied suddenly to 20 fathoms all around it. This was afterwards found
to have only 3 fathoms in one part. On the opposite side, however, was clear,
good anchorage fur about a mile, where many vessels might ride without in>
convenience from the bottom, though nevertheless exposed to the violence of
the winds and sea between the limits above mentioned, comprehending 1 13 in
the western cpiarter.
The shoal is u very great inconvenience to (lie roadslend, which is at bcSt
but a very indilFerent one, being entirely exposed to tho N.W. winds and tho
western oceanic swell, which beats with great violence on the reefs encompa.ss-
ing the shores. The only advantageous circumstances are the run of water,
w Inch, however, d(H>8 not always flow, and the probability of procuring refre.Nh-
ments, from its contiguity to the populous and fertile western part of the
Kohala district, and the plains of Waimeu lying behind the land constituting
the sea-eoa.st.
The watering-place is in a small sandy bay, where, over a space of 20 yards
of rugged roek.s and stones, a fine stream empties itself, whose water is easily
to be procured by landing the casks on the snndy beach.
Vancouver says : — " Toenigh (Kawaihae) is situated in a grove of cocoa-nut
trecH, just behiud a sandy point. A reef of coral rocks, extemiing thence alxHit
three-ciuartcrs of a mile into llie sea, rendered it inaccessible to our boats in a
direct line, bat we landed very comniodiously in a narrow channel betwwii ilie
reef and the shore, near the Morai. to the 8.K. of the beacii. The village only
consisted of straggling houses: in the centre of them wa.s a reservoir of salt
water, from which nalt was made."
fei-
''I
i
m
"^ '■^^"'I'WtWWWgTMM^jWWim *»C>%'iHw
lORO
THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
m
P ■
mm-
;*!*,
1^1
if,
I ill
n
Capt. Wilkes «aT« of this part:— The diKtrict of Wnimea is situntcd on the
N.W. side of the islnnd. So much of tlic soil of this district as lies alonj; the
coast, though rich, is Iwdly watered, and 7 or H miles in the interior from
Kawaihae Hay it l>ocomeH excMMliiiijly rocky and harron. The hij;h land to
the eastward of Kawaihae causes almost a ])crpi in timber of goiKl ^izt• and ipiality for building. This wi« the
famous sandal-wood district, whence Kamehameha (the king^ procured the
cargoes he sold for the Canton market. Waimea was also the principal place
of exjKTt for hides, tallow, and bccf.
From the bottom <^f the bay tlic cok.-'t extends for about 2W miles in an irre-
gular S.S.W. direction to the westernmost point of Hawaii, Aaulano I'oint. It
docs not appear to atford any shelter or inlerest to the mariner.
The great lava stream which flowed from the summit of Mauna I/oa in .Janu-
ary — July, 18ftS», reached the sea about l.i miles to the iS. W. of Kawuihae, and
considerably altered the features of the co.ist.
The S.W. side of the Lsland is termed the district of Kona (or Akoita\ and
includes Kealakekua and Kairua or Kailau. 'I'he district of Kailau is similar
in character to that of Kealakekua, but the lava is of a more recent formation,
the eruptions from Mauna Ilualalai, in 1809 and IMIO, having llowed down
and covered nearly the whole nortiiern portion. The iiioiiiiUiin is H,72j ft. high,
and rises abruptly on its West side.
This being the lee .side of ihj island, as explained in a former j>agc, rain very
seldom falls here, and this, with the ab«ence of all dew, does not allow of much
cultivation. 'I here is coarse herbage enou;^h for slight pasturage near the shore,
but farther inland it becomes better, and tiic taro and bread-fruit are abundant.
l.jind and sea bree/es are very regular, and are the prevalent winds.
Kailua, Kairua, or, as it is called by N'aucouver, Tyahtaluoa Hat/, is in this
district, 3 miles from the We.^t jjoiiit. In Meiires's account of Capt. Douglas's
vovage. this bay is considered e(jual or superior to that of Kealakekua, but
Vancouver's closer examinaticjn led hiin to a dillerent conclusion. It is but a
(flight l>end in the general line of coast, not more than 2 cables in depth,
according to (apt. Dupcrrey's chart, and scarcely UB
I forctt>lii
lii ved to
oiupanictt
rictB, but
1 wiia the
;ur»nl tlic
ij)iil plucc
n an irro-
J'oint. It
I in Jimu-
iihae, and
ona], and
is winular
riimtion,
cd down
ft. liiyh,
riiin vtTV
cif much
If hhori',
uhuiidaut.
tl
iH in t)ii!i
I lou^laii'H
,1'kun, but
It in but a
in depth,
o uf a buv.
VancouTCr anchored with the northcrumost ju-int bottriui."; N 69' W.. by coni-
paas; the village, called Anc-oo-rooa, beinj^ the nenrrst fdioro, X. 30 J'., about
Haifa mile distant, and the point of Koivrooft (Kolui , S. '22' E. This was as
close to the shore as prudence would allow th«):n to lie, ind tho bottom in nil
diroptions appeared to consist of a mixture of rocks imd sand A considernble
swell rolled in from the westward, and by the beaten nppearancc of the roeliS
wliich chiftly compose the shore, this seemed to be iu ,!.^cnenii iho case, and for
tliat reason not ii very eligible j)laco for ^llipping. it ha**, however, one Mipe-
riority over Kealakekua in respect of landing. I'hi.j convenience is produced
by the jutting out of two points ; between these in a snialS cove, defended l>y
some rocks lying before it, which break the violence of the surf, and render
communication with the shore very commodious. 'Ilio lauding is on a sandy
beach, before a grove of cocoa-nut, brec iO-uit, and other tn.'cs, in tiu^ uiidi>!; of
which the village is situated. On a poiiu on the West side is th'"" tomb of
King Knmehameha, which is placed by Duperrey in hit. 1'.' 37' '2V .V., l(,i\j;'.
loG^ 1 W. ; later observations place it in 150^ 4 '20" W Towurd fhe South
part of this cove is a spring, which rose very rapidly from amongst *oriA« vocVs
which are generally covered with the sea water ; but when this is low, which
is sometimes the case, it is found to produce a stream of excellent frcv.h water;
by proper means there is no doubt but that it might be made available Jfyr ll.o
ncighbo>irhood and shipping.
Kairua Hay may be recognised from seaward by its two churchc?, audby ihe
cocoa-nut groves westward of the bay. Mauua Iluurari, bcanng N.E. by K.,
will lead to it. — Lirut. Lloyd, II. M.S. Teuedos.
The next district, or rather portion of the district of Kona, is that of Kci-
lakekua, or Karakakooa, which lies southward of the preceding. Wilke.s , the bay is about a mile in depth, and
liw l)otween two low points of land, ij^ mile apart, N N.W. and S.S.K., the
nortidern nam^'ii Im^a I'oint, and th«' •outln'ru Keei TotJit. On the North side,
which i* flat and barr-'u, stands tho milage of Kowrowra or Kaavoloa ; ana the South siile
the coast, for about a milo inland, hw a rugged appearance ; beyond which the
country risen with a gradual .'i.scint, an-l i> o\fr-pread with cultivated en-
closurcK anfl gn.ves of coeoa-nut trees, where tbe Labitations of the natites aro
scottered in grout numbers. '1 h<; '•liore all rourtd the bay is covered with a
black corul rock, which makes the landing yen diMigerous in rough weather ;
cxcej>t at the village of Kakooa, where there is a fine »>a»dy beach, with a
moral, <.r burjingplace, at one extremity, and a >ma!l well of fresh water at
tlic other This bay ajipearing to t'aptain ( ook a proper place to refit tho
ships and lay in an additional supply of water and provisions, ho moored on
the North side, about a ijuarter of a mile frwm the shore, Kowrowra bearuig
N W.
Kaavoloa Corf, in the N.W. part of the bay, altliough exposed to winds
from the South and S.\N' , may hv considered a safe anchorage, except dnnsi„'
the winter months , Cook I'oint, which lies three-cjuarters of a mile eastward
of Jf tlie cove, partially protecting it
fioin tlie swell. Cook's monument stands on thi- *hore, about 1 cable North of
Cook I'oint. A _Aj^(/ Any/./ /I'y/i/ is exhibited on Cook Point when the ni:i;l
vleamer is expected. Iktween ( ook I'oint and I'elcrel I'oint, three-ijuarteis
of a mile to E.S.K., there are deptlw of .30, 25, and 10 fathotns water, hotioni
c\n0^y of sand and shells; iu the vicinity oi rclcrcl I'oint, however, tise
bottom IS rocky.
Ijirge vesscU usually anchor in the middle of the bay. in 2'> fathoms, imnd.
with (ookii monument bian.ig .N.W., and Kcei I'oint S. ^ K. 11. M.S. Junloitx
Anchored in Kaavoloa Cove, in UO futhoins, abreast Cook's mouumeut, mooring
j^^ a KUro hnwrnsr to the shore, oud during lier stay of »i;i weeks ^m October
m
^
m
, .*»^-l'
■ JWMUIIllI ViUUUW H ^.^
iiost cnlireljr
fUlora strotiK
n n good ileal
illy very dry,
letimcs blowi
n Kfiilun, «lc-
imoitiil <"aj)t.
oj^frapliy.
N., ISTTi.nnd
in doplh, and
d S.S.K.. the
lO North side,
voloa; nnd m
re is anotluT
runs n s i ky
le South hiile
ind which llio
:ullivntod c'li-
lio natives arc
ovcred with a
u^\\ weather ;
l»«-ach, with u
ii'sh water ul
o to rrfit the
10 moored "ii
rowra bcariug
HAWAII— KEALAKEKITA HAY.
1083
and NoremWr'' fiouthrrly wind?< wore experienced only on two oconstons, when
a disngrccable swell ?et in, allhougli tlie winds were light ; iandint;, however,
was not interrupted. The best landing-placo is about half a cable southward
of Cook's nioimnient, whence there is a good road leading to Kona.
Ik'cf, fowls, sweet potatoes, and plantains can be obtained in Karakaknn, also
water nt Naipupii, on the S.E. side of tlic bay, but the tank is falling into
decay, and the wnter i" brackish in all the wells in the vicinity cf the cove
'Ihe J-unmut of Mauna Loa, bearing M. 2 N., will lea;uiati'>n the South
jioinl of the bay bore S. by W., and t!\e North jiitint \V. \ N We moored
with the stream anchor and cable to ti\«j no-thward, liubon! the sai!«. and
Rtiuck the yards and lopma.st. Tiic ships continued to be much erow^ -d with
natives, and were surrounded by a multitudi^ of canoe«. I had nowhere in the
course of ir.y voyages seen so nusuernus a Inxly of peojvie assembled at one
place ; fur, besides those who liadcomo off to us in canoes, all the shore of tiic
bay was covered with speet.Uor.s, and many hundreds were swimming round
the ship like siioals offish. We could iji't but he struck with the bingularity
of this scene ; and perhaps there wre fiw on board who now lamented our
having failed in our endeavours tn ilnd a northern passage homeward la.st
svuiimev. To tlii.s di.sappolntment we owed our havijig it in our ptwer to re-
visit the Sandwieli Islands, and to ennieii our voyage with a discoverv which,
though the last, seemed in many rc^pcet.s to be the mo-^t important that had
been made by Europeans throughout the e.\tent of the I'aeitio Ocean."
The suUwr|ucnt proceedings of tlic discovery ship* niy. familiar to most,
(apt. Cook on his landing was received by the natives in a most i xtraordinary
manner, lie received unmi.stakable evidences (-f adoration addres.SHl to him,
and sereral religious ccremonied occurred, in which he was the principal object.
The mojrt unlwuiuled liberality was also shown to liie vi.sitois, and all was
friendly and rcspt^rful. TIm? ships (juitted i!ie hay on the Ith uf Eebruarv,
but on onr- ..f tiieiu springing her foremast, they determined to return, and
roHched iheii formc! anchorage on the lUh following. Their reception was
tlie reverse of what wa» anticijiuted, and suspicion and aggression in small
matters took the place of the former good feeling. Jhis led to open outbreak,
and on Sunday, February M. 177'J, Cook landed with a boat's crew, in the
inid/.t of an immea»e and armed crowd. A chief had been unfortunately shot,
nnd the news arrsTing, was the signal for open wnrfurc, and Cook was stabbed
u\ tlic back in attemptuig i- :each the boat al the water's edge. Thua tiied
»M
^^
ui
1^
■,.s: —
t \ mimi'u\<-if>m»tmi,
IJiM!
"m
m
??■■
K 'r
1,1
ill!
1081
THF, SANDWICH IRIJ\.NDS.
this most rcmailcalilo man at the scene of liis most important discovery. Tlic
stone on wlwch he landed is still shown, and the stem of a tree, near to tho
»pot where he fell, was marked with an inscription on copper relating the fact,
now replaced by a monunjcnt, erected in 1874. The top of this tree has been
brought to Kngland, and deposited at Grecwich hofipital.*
The name of the bay, Karnkakooa, as Cook calls it, or Kealakckua, nccord-
ing to the missionary orthograpliy, sigiuties " the patli of llu: g'lds," and is ho
termed from a slide in the hill, still visible, by which the uativi. . believed the
gods used to cross the bay quickly.
The bay is not extensive, and opeUsS between two low and barren liills, on
each of which stands a town. Between them a higii perj)endieuiar bliilF rises
directly from the water, in which are nunuu'oiis eaves formerly and sU.\ some-
times used us places of buriivl. These caveii aix> ue^u ly inaccessible, and resorted
to by vast liucks of birds.
'I'hc district of Kau occupies the southern extremity of the i-^land. Tlic coast,
says Cap?.. King, presents a prospect of the most horrid and dreary kind, the
^^ :()le country appearing '.o have undergone a total change from the etFects of
some dreadful cunvulKiun. The ground iss everywhere covered with cinders, and
intersected in many places with black streaks, wiiich seem to mark the course
of a lava stream wlach flowci, not many ages back, from the mountain Iloa
to the shore. The southern promontory U>ekf> like tho mere dregs of a volcano,
'i'he projecting headiiind is composed <.f broken and craggy rocks, piled irregu-
larly on one ani>lhcr, and lenniuaiing in sharp jwints.
Notwithhl.inding the dismal nspect of this jtart of the island, it is much more
populous than tlic verdant mountains of I'una to the N.K. Nor is this circum-
btaiice hard to be accounted for ; the natives prefer such ground as litts more
cor»venient fur frshing, or is best .suited to the cultivation of yams, aiul ])lan-
tams. Njw, amid tlicse ruins there .ire many patches of rich soil, which are
carefully cultivated, and the neighbouring sea abounds with excellent i\f\\.
Another inducement for their residence here is that it is iixcj'unyus dii-'iivl.
I \\
• Tiio fnto of Cook is a wJ cTiJonce of n:i unfortunnt<; point in his person il churnctor.
Kis temper whs ovorboarin^f nri'l U«>ty, nm! for ihin Jiis ntUchvil friind iind companion,
Otptaiii Kiiii?, reraarku, h'; nii^rlil have U'on justly lilrimeJ. No other navif^ttor fvrir ux-
periuncc-i such a welcome. He wns the wd t>) them which tridiliun lid lh«ni to ( .ij>«ct to
ntiirn, and A"«o (O-rono), as he wn« uillrd, rrctived divini: honours una uiilx»uiiiio.l
li'iondity. I.'nfortun^tl 1y they uiJ not meet with duu contidi.ritioii, and he who wns cun-
■ileiL'd I ninortd waa ki!l<-!. Ail hit rcmaina wire zvA returnel iit tho tinH-, liut his libs
and brtast-boae, as iilso a xl'j«lgi.- from tlm N.W. c.:)i»»t of Atnorion, were ,if[iTward.i wi,r.
aS'pped ly thoao who bvlicvt-d in his riivmity. Tl.oy wore priservi'd in a ainall wicker
bifket, corrrfd with ro 1 foiithcrs, and dcjiohited in a t<-mple Jodicatod to Lone, on tho Kant
aide of th'.' ia'and. 'Jlny wore annually canic'l in prwosaion to other ]>arta of tlio island
Thfir fate haa nerer b«jn properly nscfrtninwl, hut it ia said thai aomo of tbi'm were
bfxufrht to Eo^fintid hy Libo-Liho. Tha teiuaiTider have pruhabl> b^tn hidden aiuoe
IdoK ly wai alKiliih>:d.
■I HW nmiHiK*
^-m
If
MAUI.
1085
wTicro tills voprtaWo prodtiotinn is collected nnd (IritMl for the China market,
and \b Bcnt to Honolulu for tthipnient in large bales. Oil' ihiit ]):ut of the const
Cnpt. King could find no ground at less than a ca})lo's length off the shore,
with IGO fathoms of line, excepting in a bight to the eastward of the South
point, where they had regular eouudings of 60 and 58 fathuins, over a bottom
of fine sand.
Ka Lae, the South point, is in lat. !«'" 51', long, l.la" 12', and on it stands a
tolerably large village. After Cook's visit it was reported that good anchorage
nnd excellent shelter existed close round on the western side of this South
point, and liad been overlooked by that navigator ; but Vancouver, to set the
matter at rest, examined it, anl found tb;it the .sliores were nearly straight, and
exposed to a tremendous surf, whieli broke witli such fury as to render landing,
if not impossible, highly dangerous, even to those inhabitants who are most
expert in the manngemcnt '' iheir canoes.
'J'he wU'>le of the S.M. side between the South point and Kapoho Point, a
distance of tlO miles, alfords not the smallest shelter or anchorage of any do-
seriplion. All this part of the island has been much altered by the cITects of
the volcano wliich stands over it.*
Ml
MAUI, or ^fo^l^fe of the older navigators, is the next large island to the
N.W., Alenuihuhii C'hnnurK between them, being -.'J^ miles in width. It is
43 miles in Iriigth, W. by .\. and Iv by S., witli :\ greatest breadth of '1-i nnlcs ;
nt a distance it appears like two islands, but a nrare;- ;i[)proach shows the low
sandy isthmus only a few feet above the sea, and G miles across, uniting the
two peninsulas. The whole island, like all the rest i/t' the group, is volcanic,
nnd appears to have been jjroduccd by the two adjacent voicanos, which have
ejected the enormous masses of matter of ^v'iuch it is composed. The island
resembles Tahiti more than iiawaii ilocs, both in form and appearance. The
lofty sunmiits of the southern piiimsula are never covereil with snow, though
they are ot'tcu seen above the clouds. The high land is steep and rugged,
• Th<> Hoiithom fTtremity of Ilnwnii s\itT r»'d most from the jrreat eruption of Mauna
Lor, ijf ISO.H, alliiduil to on puift- lOi'.'.V It cumnicncoJ, with but ft;w wiirninKS, on March
aVth, and fnim th.il period to April UUh it w.is cstimattd lluit ttct^ thommmi shuik* wero
frit, thi) hcivirst on .\pnl 2nd. which ww felt in ironolulii, and Jt-dtrojed every churoh
Bud liwi'llin,' in t^u Kau or tiiulhcm iinirict of ilnw.ni. ( in .April Ttti, a n^fr enter sud-
donU ImiKt out on tiio gidts of iho ni uiiiiftin, noar a houso, whiili win uov.-r. d with Uv..
teit iniHuii-i iiftiTwardK, iind from it a rivt-r of liro, viiryini^ frum .lOO tu 1,200 or I.jOO l> ••
wide, ri.u couthwiiid it tli>> nto of 10 inilfS nn Itour. '1 hi» l.iv i Btri/am ru.ithfd th.' Sviuih
point, and tho A""u jwckot, pli.•..sMl^,' ihi- point ut thi> Unif, it i< ottid at ;f nule.i diaunee
(prolnibly ixii(,'gieo ihit i; i» now nlfflott descrle I.
1086
Tiir, R.wmvirn islands.
if
m
f, %
dhowing at all times the igneous nntiirc of its formntion, extinct craters and
indurntetl lava streams. Where this has decomposed, the sides of the moun-
tains are covered with shrubs and trees.
The surface of the nortliern peninsula docs not appear to he of such recent
formation as that of the southern, and nUhou^Ii it is of evident volcanic forma-
tion, the marks of reernt eruption are seKloin seen.
The aspect of the two portions of Maui are very *tinct from each otluT.
East Maui chielly consists of Mauua llnlmkaUt /'house of the .-iun "), which,
from j)erpeiulicuhir clitfs near the sea, ri'>es in many jiarts with one ur.hroken
elope to the summit, 10,030 ft. high, somewhat resembling Mauna Ke.i, on
Hawaii. West Maui is very much intersected by sharp peaks and rul^es,
separated by dceji valleys wiiich form slopiiif; plains of cou'-iderable extent to
the i\orthward and southward. The highest peak of We.^t Maui is Murtnu o lurka,
6,130 ft. high, and the greater part of this peninsula is grazing land.
Mauna HaUdhala has the largest known crater in tlie world, or it may br
that it is formed of several craters. The mountain is 10,0;iO ft. high, and the
crater nu-asurcs over JO miles around its edges, and is 2 miles across its widest
p.ivt. The summit is hare. At the height of s.ooo ft. there is a largo cavern,
('apt. Wilkes s.ays : — ' The crater of llaloakala, if so it may be called, isa deep
gorge, open at the North and Kast, forming a kind of elbow ; the bottom of it,
as ascertained by the barometer, ¥rtt.s 2,783 ft. below the .summit peak. Although
its .'•ides are sleep, yet a descent is practicable at aliiu)st any part of it. Tlie
inside of the crater was entirely bare of vegetation, and from its bottom arose
some large hills of scoria and sand. Some of the latter are of an ochrc-rcd
colour at the summit, with small craters in the centre. All bori' the aj)pearanee
of volcanic action, but the natives have no tradition of an eruption."
The isthmus is, as before stated, very low, and con?.ubject« and sailors in. The area within ia
about an acre, and the walls are 20 ft. high. According to the observations of
the United Silalea' E.\ploring lixpcdition, it is in lat. 20 ol i>0',loug. 166' 41',
I,
. hi
i
m
1088
THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
I
11
&%
I tit
Hi
The tide horc J« irrogiilar. beln^ somcwlmt dcpondcnt on the winds ; it luns to
the N.W. generally, sixteen hours out of the twenty-four.
The Bcminnry of Lahninaluna is the most remarkable building to bo lecn as
the bay is nj)pronchod. It stands on the side of the mountain behind the town,
and 2 miles from it. It was founded in IS.'il, for instructing school-te.achers.
An rxecUent chart of the iSandwieh Tsliinds was engraved, on small pieces of
copper taken from a wreck, at this cstabli^hmeut, a singular production fur this
remote sjiot.
Lahaina is in some point.s n preferable place to TTonolulu for refreshment;
more order reigns here than in most places in the I'aeific ; and the absence of
foreigners and their attendant grog-shops, causes less temptation to be thrown
in the way of crews ashore. I'rovisions, especially j)otalocH, are abundant. In
the neighbourhood is one of the best sugar plantations in the islands, but rain
falls so seldom that every acre has to be irrigated.
Lahaina was a favourite recruiting place for the whale sliips, and conse-
quently the j)roducts of the other islands were brought here, and everything
may be got here except taro. The fruits arc excellent. 'I'liere are several
Kuropean residents and traders. The island seems to bo rising as the beach id
extending, having advanced at least 20 ft. since lb55.
Light. — \ fiifd briyht light, visible 6 miles, is shown on the bench.
As the shoals on the N.W. side of Maui extend a considerable distance from
the shore, vessels bound for T-ahaina roadstead should not approach the land
to the northward of it nearer than 3 miles until tlie lightliouse bears N.l'!. J N.,
when a good berth will be found in 10 to 15 fathoms, sand, with the lighthouse
on that bearing. Two lights horizontal, obout 1 ft. apart, are exhibited from
the lighthouse, but they cannot be distinguished m two separate lights until
within IJ mile of tlie ancliorage. The landingiilace is at a snuill jiicr ex-
tending from the lighthouse, and protected by a breakwater. — Lieut. ChilJ,
JJ..M.S. PetfTfl 1S7.5.
Notwithstanding that the anehornge on this side of ^faui is well sheltered,
Vancouver considered that the bottom was only a slight covering of sand over
a bed of hard coral. The lead does not discover thi.s, but on anchoring the
decritfulness of tin- bottom is manifest. The roadstead of I.ahaina is onlv an
open one ; the shores are bounded by a reef, with only one Landing for boats.
The soum'ings decrease regularly to Ti fathoms close to the reef, extending in
general about one-fourth of a mile from the brnch. Tne Wtst extremity of
Maui forms, with the West point of the ro.ndstead bearing N. 11 W. ond
S. 1 l^ Iv, 3 miles asunder, an excellent litilc bay. The North point is formed
b^ a round hill close to the water side.
The southern side of West Maui has a forbidding aspect ; the shores, how-
ever, are not so 8t«ep and rocky as elsewhere, and have generally a sandy beach.
There is a roadsU-ad here, called by Vancouver Paloa, which is rejiresented
as a good anchorage, and may be easily found by attending to the following
MAUI— LATIAINA- MAKKNA.
1080
'I
description : —Tho Inrgc bay, formed by tlic two peninsulas ond the snndy
islhmu», has its western side formed by high rocky precipices, that rise per-
pendicularly from tile sea. To the westward of these precipices tho coast is
chit'fly composed of sandy boaclies, and the mountains, at some distance from
thf shore, form two rcmiukabli' valleys, Kej)araled from each other by a high
riij;'j;rd mount lin, htxMiiingly di'liitliod from tlic rr.st, and aiiproaclun;,' nearer
to the boaeh than those to the right and left of it. The anchorage at I'atoa
is abreabt of the easternmost of these valleys, which appeared fruitful and well
cultivated.
The western side of this large bay f Ktuiudaea Hay J is formed by rocky
cliffs and precipices ; its oppo'Nite shore is about 4 miles distant ; the soundings
on the eastern side are regular, but very rock\-. Nearly in the middle of its
western side is a village, called Mackcrrey by Vancouver, off which there is
anchorage in 7 fathoms, a little more than a ([uarter of a mile off shore, bottom
of sand and broken cor;.l. It is only open to about two points to the S.W,,
but there is not much wind from that ([uarter ; one great inconvcnionco
attending the anchoring in any p;ut of this bay is the violent scjualls which
blow over the isthmus. These gusts, or rather gales of wind, blow constantly
when tilt" trade wind blows fresh at sea, and especially when it is most from
the northern (piarter. At these times it ]>revents any communication with the
hliore, and this is the more serious, as the holding-grouiul is triaehcrous.
Kamalaea l!ay is the seaport for the towns of Wailuku and Waikiipu, dis-
tant and 4 miles respectively from th? landing-place, which is at a pier in
the northern part of the bay, the ehannel leading to the landing-place being
about '20 yards wide, betwe<.'n two coral reefs. The anchorage is in the N.K.
j);irt of the bay, in l.'i to K fathoms, sandy bottom; a spar buoy is moored in
I' fathoms near this anchorage, and should be kejit well on the starboard bow
on entering the bay. II. M.S. Pelerrl anchored in 'J fathoms with the ])ier-head
bearing N. by W. I W. ; tho spar buoy, N. by K. 4' K. ; and the West point
of the bay, S.W. by W. j W.— Lieut. Child.
Makena, or Makee's Landimj, a small indentation near the South extreme
of Muni, derives its name from a j)lanter, whose e.state is situated about o niilcs
Kast of the laiuling-placc. It may be recognised from seaward by liound Hill,
500 ft. high, with a flagstaff on its summit, situated on a point about a milo
South of the landing ; on a nearer approach the stone church, uud several
houses near the landing, will le seen.
The anelunage is in 10 to 12 fathoms, sand, about ?> cables from the landing,
place, with Hound Hill flagstaff bearing S. by W. ? \\\ ; the Landmg-shed ou
the beach, K. by N. I \. ; and tho North extremes of Molokini Islet and
Kahulaui Island in line, W. by S. I S. ; the depths gradually decreasing to 3
fathoms near the shore. Off tho landing-jilace are two mooring buo^s for the
trading schooners, lying in J and » fathoms. This anchorage is exposeil to the
Aof.'A I'lici/ic. z
.1
it
1
1 1
w
II
1090
THK RANDWICII ISLANDS.
beary squalli which oocniionallj- blow over tlia low i«lhmu« near tho ecjjUo of
Maui ; nrnl landing in ships' boiiOt in at tiinon imprncticnblp.
AceoriKng to Lieut, (.'lapp, ILM.S. ifrout, the North point of the roadstead
is in lot. 20' 39' N.. long. l.')(')° 'JH W. It iti high water, on full uud change,
nt about 1'' ; spring* lisc about .') ft.
Aniitlicr anclioriiig-placc will be found near the S.W. point of Eii«t Mnui, a
little to the southward of the remarkable Hound Hill on a handy beach, pro-
jecting its rocky ba.se into the sea. I-'roni the appinianca uf iut summit it was
culled Volcano Hill; it lie* N. 20° W., about .'J niilcH from the South point of
Maui, and directly opposite the island of Molokiui. The soundings ure regular,
from 7 tu 1 '> and 23 fathoms. Th« bcuch appears cuuvcuicnt fur lauding on,
but there is no water.
MOLOKINI, Moroiint, or Morrotinnre, is a barren rock, lying in Alala-
Itiki Channtl, which Hcparates l"-ii.>.t Maui fiom Kahulaui. It is high, or it
would be dangerous to shipping. It is only visilid by llsheipicn, who dry their
nets en its barren surface.
KAHULAUI / Ka/ioolaur, Tahaurauf, Tnhnoroua, or KiuloolawfJ, lies .')J
miles oH'lhc .s.W. jxiint of .Maui, and fron> its shape and a])pearance seems as
if it once formed a j)art of that island, and had been detached by some convul-
bion. It is low, and almost desliliite of ( very Uiiid of viidurc or shrub, e\-
cej)ting a species of course grass. There ure no evidences of active volcanio
agency.
It is 12J miles long. N.lv by N. and .^'.W. by S., and o miles wide. It is
only inhabited at times by a few poor fishermen, and was used as a place of
exile ; it is now chiefly useful as a shcej) pasture. The whole South part is
covered with a light soil, consisting of decom[)osed lava, and destitute of vege-
tation. On the North side there is a better soil, cajiable in sonic pluces of
vegetation, and here there arc one or two houses. Olf the West point of the
island, fi'/zc Kfulnikuhiki, is a detached shual, seen by Cook on his discovery
of the island, February 21, 177',». It lies \\ mile off the point, and has '.( ft.
water on it. Vessels may pass safely within '2 miles of the point, but it will be
much better not to apj)roach within 3 miles. This shoal is the ouc of the very
few hidden from the navigator around the Sandwich Islands.
LANAI I r Uanai lies 7 miles to the West of West Maui, the channel be-
tween being named Auau, and It') miles to the N.W. of Kahulaui, the space
between being called Ktalnihahihi Channel. I.aiiai is a dome-shaped island,
IG miles in length, K.S.K. and W.N.W., and \ to 10 miles in width, higher
than Kahulaui, but neither so high nor broken as any of the other islands, iu
greatest altitude being about .'?,OtiU ft. The greater porticm i;f it is barren, and
the island in general sutFers from the long droughts whieli frecpiently prevail;
the ravines and glens, notwitlist;uuling, are filled with thicketa of small trees,
which serve useful building purposes to the natives of Maui. Like the rest of
the group, it is volcanic j the soil is hollow, und by no means fertile ; the shores
^t
irnT.OKAr— KAT'NAKAKAT.
1091
1 CCDUo of
rondnt^ad
id chan);e,
lat Mn\ii, a
irnch, pro-
lunit il was
til point of
irc regular,
audiiig on,
5 in Alala-
hi^lJ. <'«■ it
iio dry thfir
vfj, lies ft J
cc seems nti
ome couvul-
r shrub, v\-
ive vulcauio
wide. It is
ks a place of
ulli part is*
lie of \i%Q-
nv places of
)oint of the
is di.scdVi'ry
iiul \\M '.t ft.
ut it will bo
of lUc very
channel be-
i, the space
ia})cd isluud,
ridth, higher
er islands, it:*
,a barren, and
'utly prevail ;
f aruall trees,
kc the rest of
e ; the shorei
abound with Nhell-fish, mcdiidir, nnd cuttle-fish. The inhnbitnnts nro about
400 in number, nnd numerous shcep are kept on tho island. The country to
Ihi- South is hif^h and crnpfty ; it appears to have been frecpicntiy rent, lorfje
fissures beinif apparent on its sides. Thu other pnrt« of the island have a better
aspi I't.
MULOKAI or Moro/oi lies 7 miles North of T.anai, the channel between
b«'in^ named I'ailolo. It is a lonj;, irrej^uiar island, apparently I'ormed by a
chain of volcanic mountains, .'1,'i miles in length, K. by N. and W. by S., and
only 2 J to ',i miles broad. The mountains nre nearly Cfpinl in elevation to those
of Maui, and are broken by numerous deep ravines and water-courses, thesitles
of which are froiuently clothed with verdure, and ornamented with shrubs and
trees. There is but little level Innd in Molokai, and consequently but few
plantatitins ; several spots, however, are fertile, and repay the toil of their
cultivators.
One-third of the island to the West is a barren waste, and has but few in-
habitants. The remainder, to the Hast, is almost one entire mountain, rising
gradually from the South to tho heiglit of 2,5()() ft. ; while to the North it is
a. most perpendicular. On the .South side there is a narrow strip of land, not
exeeeiiiir.; niie-fouith of a mile wiile, the soil of which is very rich, and which
contains the greater part of the poDuIation. I'he .soil here, however, is too dry
for cultivation, which is carried on in the uplands. The people are very poor,
nnd ill-provided with necessaries. In 18;}2 their number was ti.OOO ; in 18 10
only 5,000, nnd this was reduced to less than 2,000 in losi ; at the lirst-nanied
period it was first occupied as a missionary station.
Tliero aie several small harbours within the reef on the SoiftlT side, near
Kaliiaa/ia, the missionary station, which are eajiable of sheltering vessels of
CO to 80 tons. The follow ing particulars conceruiug Kuunakakui and Kalanoa
are by l.ieul. Child, II. .M.S. J'etrrr/, 18To.
Kaunakakai is situated about tiie t'cntre of the .'-outhcrn side nf Molokai,
and t'loni it the West extreme ol' Lauai bears South. IKro there is nn outer
ami inner anchorage; the former is not good, owing to the unevenness of the
bottom, and the latter affords but a limited space; there is said to be not less
tlum l fathoms over the bar leading to the inner anchorage, and .0 to 7 fathoms
•within. Two posts on tiie shore form a leading mark, ami a red />uoi/ is moored
in o fathoms within the bar, for the mail steamer. Vessels ajiproaehing should
bring the posts in line, and anclior in 10 to 13 fathoms, rock nnd sand; this
mark also leads in niid-chamiel to the inner anchorngc. On each post is u
lantern, from which lights arc exhibited when the mail ste.inicr is expected.
(iuail and pheasants are to be shot (^with permission from the Ciovernment
at Honolulu), but no other supplies can be obtained here.
The South coast of Molokai should not be approached at night without local
knowledge, as the reef which fringes the South shore of the island is stcep-to,
and extends seaward in some places to a distance of 3 miles.
i *
M.
il
N?:
f'
I 'I
ul
i^tmmaitKil^
^,
V*
IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-S)
1.0
I.I
*^ 1^ III 2.2
'it lis,
2.0
1.8
1.25 1.4 16
« 6"
►
V]
/A
7
'/
/A
Photographic
Sdences
Corporation
33 Wci^l MAIN STREET
WEBSTER, N.Y. MSEC
(716) 873-4S03
'V-
z
%^
^v
o considered safe, being
exposed U the prevailing trade wind, and the heavy swell which occasionally
sets in. Tho best anchorage is in 13 fathoms, sand, with the church bearing
E. i N., find the North point N. | E. A red huoy for the mail steamer is
moored i:i l:' fathoms, with the church l>carin!^ East. Landing ut Kalauao,
always ditlicult. is at times dangerous, and no supplies can be obtained. This
is the port for communication with the Icikt 8«tt!en>ent, p.oplo oiiiicted with
that diticaso binng sent here from the other islands for isolation.
Sir Edward Ik-icher, H.N., says : — Passing the Kustrndof Maui, and coming
suddenly on Molokai, the view is very singul;»r ; four exactly parallel outlines
of picturcMpie ami lofty cliifs appear almost a visual deception, or the elTcct of
quadruple rcfractiun ; but on advancing it will prove f" bo a reality ; their
height is about lOit ft., and varying but slightly fiuiutho |)erpeudieular. Here,
also, as on Maui, several very pretty but loftier cascade; embellish the scenery,
wliicli. attired in nature's clothing only, is rich in colours.
The I'.asl j»oiiit of the island is ealltd Jlaldira J'oinl ; and at)Out three-
quarters of a mile otf its Soutii side is a small, barren, rocky islet, called
Mokuo Niki, or Moduenete. Off the N.W. end of the island a small bay was
observed by Cook ; but it was found by Vancouver that the space indicated
was nearly a straight shore, composts! alternately of riigged rocks and sandy
beaches. He anchored in \9 fathoms, within about a mile of the breakers, on
a tine sjimly bottom; the NN'est point nf ihe island bore South by compass,
distant I miles, k' .1 tho N.W. point N. '2Ci' K., about the same distance. This
w.-»s as close as safety would allow, but it is entirely exposed to the North and
N.W. wincb, which frequently blow with great violence, and to tho very boa^*)'
roll of the sea.
Light.— On Lae o l;a Laau Point, tho westcni point of Molokni, is n white
lighthouse, showing nfxed hriijht light, elevated iU ft., and visible 11 miles.
L.it. -IV G N., long, l.')?' I'J W.
OAHTJ, "r \Vi>ah(>i>, the next island in succcfwion, is divided from Moinkal
by haiui ( hnnnel, '21 miles in width. It may be looked on as the principal
of the group, as regards mnritime affairs, inasmuch as it contains the j)ort
chiefly frcquenteil by the shipping of the North I*acific. 'Ilie island is 40
miles long, W. by N. } N. and K. by S. ^ S., by '2\ miles in greatest breadth.
Like the re?st of the islands, it is of volcanic formation ; Captain Cook only saw
the North or tnniinanl side. and. judging from tliis alone, it appeared to him
to be by far the finest island of the grotip. " Nothing oould exceed the ver-
dure of the hills, the variety of wood and lawn, and rich cultivated valleys,
which the whole face of the country ilisplnyed." A different conclusion was
arrived at by Capt. Wilkes, who came tirsi u]m)ii th« lee sidA '• The appear-
OAHU.
1003
aaco of Ouhu is hy no tnennH invitiuK ; it han a greater rcsomhiancc to tliu
desert ccaHt of IVtu than any other of the Polynesian islands wu had visited,
and has as little nppciiranco of cultivation. The country, at fint sight, would
be tormed barren and rooky." There could not be a better example of per-
fectly oppoHite characters applied to the Name place than tluN, nor a better evi-
dence of thu great variation iand generally. Sugar ami
coffee are grown. There is a belt of aroblu land, only a few feet above the
sen, extending along this district, which increases in breadth to the weittward.
This narrow strip of land, varying from half a mile to '2 miles in width towards
the North end, is called the Kulauloa district. It is bounded by the mountain
chain of Kimohnunui, and from its position it receives abundance of rain for
agricultural purposes. There are several small streams, which will drive the
machinery for sugar-mills. The scenery of this part is most enchanting for
beauty, boldness, and variety ; Ktupendous precipices, rising some ;2,0U0 or
J,()UU ft., witii numerous small (Streams gushing down their sides.
The district of Waiahia stretches from Kitcmi Point, the most westerly enpe
of Oaliu, to Waiiuca, in tlie district of Kulauloa, on the N.K., ami to Waiaii.ie,
on the S.W., a distance along the coast of above 20 miles. Within this dis-
trict are a few bays for vessels not exceeding !.'''> tons burthen; the best of
these is Kawniloa. Those to the N.lv arc Wainica, Hnuln, Kakaua, Moluilui,
niid Makua. I'art of this ilistriel producer abundantly, being cultivated by
Irrigation. Five considerable streams water it from the Kouahaunui range,
passing down the fertile valleys.
As just ^tatcd, the sugar-cane has been Lnorensingly cultivated. The follow-
iug notes were made on a visit to the plantations in isilj :— .
I'assing by the two plantations in Nuuanu Valley, located within sjgV of
ITonolulu, we reached the /n«/i ^or cliff) over a good dry road, which here is
seldom found in winter, and encountering a cool bracing North wind, which
came rushing ihrougli the narrow gap and down the valley as if it had been
caged up nn hour or two by the encircling mountains. What a scene opens
here to the tia\cller, us he commences the descent ol the precipice - a jiluia 'ii
mm
If: I
li
"t
1091
THR SAXDWICII ISLANDS.
miles long, intcrscctctl with riil|*C!i of low hilU, and hrmmed in on tho mauka
side by bold pnlimdeji, in nomc places 2,000 (i. perpendicular.
Once down the pali, the trnvrllor finds himself in Ivoolau, which embmeen
all the windward oidc nf tins island, Kn»t of the nummit ridge, and extendiii;;
from Waimannlo at the South to ^^ aimea at the North, a tract about <5() niile«
in length, and varying from 1 to ,5 milcH in width. All this dintrictof Koolau
id oxpoRcd to fretiucnt xhower*, and in intersected with numerous small streams,
which tend to make it raluablc for agriculture and pasturage.
Hetween the foot of the pali and the Protectant church at Kantoht lies the
sugar estate of the Uuccn Dowager Knlama. Just beyond Kancohc in a tract
of 3,000 acres, called Ilteia, where the Roman Catholic church is lo€atcms,
sandy bottom, the extreme points of the bay bearing S.W. by \V. \ \\ . nnil
N.K. by K. I E., off the mouth of a fine rircr, running through a deep valley.
Watering here, however, could not be well efTcctcd on account of a reef which
strelthes along shore to the distance of half u mile.
At h'audiloa the coast forms a small bay, and has a dreary a consist of
tlic Burface
rounil, ro-
1, Winkupu.
aint iu the
itcd by the
13 fatli oinu.
■. J W. niul
iliop valley.
1 reef whieh
K'Ct on fllht
il iintl niiser-
ig change is
)uvcr'8 cxpc-
ivcstom coast
D S.W. piiint.
sccndmg nb-
it, whcneo a
iches, chiefly
Vancouver
iUago he had
lood the boaea
fertile valley
i;
^ -MmBJi' I
mmnmimmm
I'STI
#%.•# »%.♦.?* U^0^
lira
l_/
»»••
U''
I 7 4 1 •
»i .\» i4
. -5 ,*'y i« V o' '
w
n >
•J « jj
1?
1»
l«
» 4
«
*
\%
l.t
IS
u
" »*
^
la
i&
/
>i
n
>•
It
^ /Civwut /Km^
44
/
HONOLULU HARB*
IImII .« S. » Mil>
^' ^
OAIIU— HONOLULU.
10U6
\
^
\.
7
tHndi through the hills. Tho shore hero forma a small sandy bay. On its
South side, between two high rocky precipices, in a grovo of cocoa-nut and
other trees, stands the villiigc ; and in the centre of tho bay, about a mile to
the North of tlio village, i.t a high rock, remarkable for its projecting from a
Bundy beach. At o distance it appenri to be dctucheil from tlie land. Uctwcea
this and tlic high rocky i)o...t to the South of tliu village is a Hmuil bank «)f
8o\indings, htretchiiig some distuucf into the sea. Tlic South side of this bank
haH irregular rocky uouiidings, from '.ii to H fathoms i to tho North of it tho
edge is very obrupt.
The dibtrict cf Ku-a occupies the S.W. portion of the island, extending cast-
ward to within 7 miles of Honolulu, and 20 miles along the sea-shore. Unlike
others on this side of the inland, it is well watered by copious ond excellent
8j)rings, the streams from which are Kuflicicnt for working sugar-mills. This
iit the best part of Oahu for raising cattle and sheep, which ore seen here in
greater nun>bers than elsewhere.
The Pearl Lochs, o: Prarl Hiver Harbour, lies on the Simth side of tho
island, tlie entraner being about S miles K.N.K. of Laeloa Point. It i.s an
extensivi- inlet of the f.ea, into wliieh the Uiver Kwu and several other streams
empty themselves. It derives its name from the fact of llie pearl-oyster lieirig
found in it; it is not met with elsewhere in the Sandwich Islands. Tlie inlet
has somewhat the appearance of a iogoon wbicli has been partially tilled uj) by
alluvial deposits, and affords abundance of excellent fish. The depth of water
in tl>e mouth is only 11 ft- ; but after passing lliis coral bar, which is 400 ft.
wide, the depth of water becomes ample for large ships, and the basin is suffi-
ciently extensive to accommodate any number. If the bar were partially re-
moved, which might be effected, it would afford the best and most capacious
harbour in the Tacific. .\t pre»e!»t there is little necessity for this, as the neigh-
bouring port of Honolulu is ample for all the present rc(purement8.
HONOLULU is the capital and principal port of the kingdom of Hawaii,
and indeed of this part of the Pacific Ocean. It is not very many years sinco
it wos first frefjuented by Europeans, but Vancouver passed it without much
notice, in March, 17l>3, such is its opparent insignificance from the entrance.
Ifc was afterwards informed by Mr. brown, of tho ship Butteruorth, of iia ex-
cellence, ond his tender, tho Jackall, first entered it in 17y4. Mr. Brown gavo
it the name of Fair Haven. Vancouver calls it Honootwono.
Sinco tho periods above -aamed it has made a wonderful change in circum-
Btances, and few ploces in the world now have such a Tariety of popuktion and
manners as is to be seen here.
As the whaling fleet became more numerous, wealth was gradually brought
here, as it was the principal resort of the ships that cumo to refit. The poi)u-
lation gradually iucreased, and instead of a town of grass huts, with only one
house that had a chimney in it in 1827, when Capt. Ueechey came here, it is
now a hirge town of about 15,000 iohabitaata. The situation being good, it
IP
I
n
ill
P
I
loac
Tlir, SANDWICFI ISLANDS.
WAS orrntunlly ostnMiiihcd tin the capitnl nf tbo Hawaiian kingdom, tho !«•!•
dcncc of the confluU of fort'imi courts, and ihr cliicf port in the best channel
of mtcrcourno between the eautern coa«U< of the old, and the western coasts of
the n(W worUl. It hiix a fine cnpacinu'* liarboiir, furmed by the eoral reef,
enpable of acromiuodatin); '.M)'i vesxeln at a time, and is perfectly cafe in all
weathern. A small steam ve»^eI runs periodically bilween Honolulu and
Hawaii, and there are several ^rhooners constantly trading to and from the
various islands. , In mail-steamers between San Kranei.sen and New Zealand
call liere twice a niv)Utli, and anollior Unc of sU'Mucrs run» betwecu Soii Fran-
cisco and Honolulu, twice a month.
The central part of the city now consists of regularly laid out streets, on
rither side of whieh stand houses and warehouses, ci>nstruclcd after the
Kuropean style, generally painted, and frecjuently placed within spacious en-
closures with gardens, while its outer j)ortions are still chictly composed of
grass huts mhalnii d by the nativt s. IWsides these, there are the king's palace,
a fort, numerous churclies and chapels, jniblie ofhces, a custom-liousc ami a
sailors' hiune : also ample wharves, foundries, work-shops, and sliip-yards to
meet ony emergency that may arise, even to making a steam-ship if ordered,
but the charges are somewhat expensive, labour being very dear. In l^HJ, a
marine railway was conipKted, eaj)able of taking up a vessi 1 of 1,700 tons,
when light. On the NVcbt side uf tUu hurbuur U a Uuarautinc iiusj)itul, built
on reclaimed ground.
Supplies of cvrry kind, including ficsh nnd salt meat, may be obtained here,
and the prices are moderate. I'.xceilent wattr is eariiiil down frmn the .N'uuanu
N'alky, in iron pipi s. t-- siij)ply the city and the shipping. Auslruliau cuul cusla
about 10 dollars per ton.
In IHsl, •>:1, with a tonnage of 10J,308, belonged to the I'nited Suites.
Ii. tlie same year 1'.* whaling vessels, with a total tonnage of u» cn-
ly coinpo*"-'^^ "'
e kinK"» pn^uce,
„n.hoviso antl a
ship if orilcrcil,
iar. In ^^^'' *
I of I, TOO tons,
ic llo^♦i'itul, built
\,c obtatncil here,
fr..m the Nuuanu
BiiuUuu cyal coslfl
.»,:Ml. cntcreil the
the VniU-^^ f^Wtcs.
,,,(.k;\. called hero.
lie roads, is barren,
re. This r^'»i" •^''*
ll>c l;nul vises gra.
hilU are in si-^Wt,
I'unch JioHl,6Utt'ia
»\ volcanic ridges of
,l,„ul 7 n>ile^ long.
i;a\ics the northern
,,,ij,lccofl.lO<'f^-.
I,,„^,.^U between two
condense the clouds.
^,,U, thrvt h-ap fi-'>'"
,, and fnin a lai^e
4
-if
3
i^
I
1
n
mm'mmmmmmmmmiiiBtisii^sssssssi
\:*,S
i
Hi
f
[:!■
OAIIT'— nnxOLULlT.
l(l!»7
brook, whii'h U ngalii diNtributi-il by the iiiitivi'it to i^ivi- fcililitv iinil lu\iiriniico
to the vtili' below.
One of the most conspiomiis |)oii\t« on tlio South nido of Ouhu is I.nthi or
Diamond Hill, It lioft about -li inilvs S.K. )iy E. of Honolulu, nnd forms A
very pictun>H(|ue objiTt from tbi* linrlwur It in nn extinct volcnnie crntcr, thi*
Inrgpitt conKt crater on tlie iHJiinil, and huH iti« Inttertuinte from the ciicutnMtnnco
of bright crA'ittnlN rrm>iiiblin(; the diamond being found (m itit ttides. I tJi highest
p«)int reachcft an altitude of 7(')1 ft.
The mouth of the harbour is formed by nn inlet throupli a eoml reef, pomi-
bly kept open by the fresh-water streant flowing? through the town ; this bos
been nuppoMed to be filling tip the harbour nnd its entrance with alluvia! de-
jMmit, as a considerable diminution in the depth in obnerved ninee the earlier
explorations. This is more probably owitig to an entire upheaving of the coast,
as in evitlenced eUewhere in the diminution of watvr on rrx-ky shelves off the
cooHt atul the markft on the coast itself. It is true that this might be remediid
without great trouble, by deepening the channel or by tloing the same to the
more exten.MVC harbour of the Pearl Liigooiis t(» the Mestwjiiil.
Lights. — \ Jixril hii'/hl light is cxliibitfd from a lighthouse erected on the
inner edge of the western reef, at half a mile within the entrance of the
channel into Ibmolulu Harbour. It is elevated 2'') ft. above the sea, and is
vihible '.I miles sc.iward In twern S.K. by K. and West. From .he lighthouse
the Spar or l'\irway buoy bears S. by W., TiJ cables; I>ian>oiid Toiiil,
S.K. by K. ; Murber Point, W. \ S. ; and the eastern corner of the (Custom-
house, N. by K. i K., '1\ cables. Ne.ir to this corner of tlie Custom-house,
from a tower, a fisfd yrem light is exhibited, elevated "JM ft. above the sea,
and visible '-' or 3 miles. The green light is in lat. 'Jl' IH »> N., long.
167 6'2 1(1 NV.
Directions. — Vessels np]»rooebing at night should bring the leading lights in
line, bearing N. by K. J Iv, and should also be most attentive to \\\v soundings,
obtaining bottom under 10 fathoms, and not coming into less than \2 fathoms
before anchoring.
To enter the h.irbour. bring the lighthouses or the two lights in a line, nnd
keep them so until within 2 to 3 cables of the lighthouse on the reef, then
steer to the eastward, to avoi.teer N. W. to the aneliorat:r inside.
A conspicuous bell huny, painted black and white, with st.itf .iiid cjige, is
moored in \C, fathoms, I cables S.K. by S. J S. fnmi the spar buoy lying on
the Kast side of the entrance of the harbour, and a (juarter of a mile fnnu the
shore reef.
The following directions for the outer anchorage are by !\Ir. H. Thomp'Jon.
mastonoa thill i"*- .,,\,W. '"'V r hv S i S. lUc U-U buoy
;?7t:tnrt;:;u-i--^^''^-'"'^^""''^^^^
U m.-.rea near here. ^^^ n,„rn.nff i« the bent tune
^.ouU a U. nece..ry to enter ^^^^^^^ , ,,, .fu-r the tnule w.a
,. U.re are then leaau,, w.> - I - ^ I ^..^^...^^ .,, U.e aul o, .
^ •'--:::::r::i;-M.:^-on.^^
;;:::;:: o;:i:uC to -reef.. V.»a. enter... or U...
„e charKn-a half pih.U.R'- '«»-; „^..„aea. .o thnt ven^el. of «ny
TUe wharf ha. b^en n.ueh -F-^^ *"^ ,„ j,,,,, the a.,,lh over the bar
,, le n.ay h, alon...ae and -I here- n ^^^^ ^ ^ ^^ ^ ^ ^^ ^^^^
. 1 « .ater wa- .ulea to be 21 f t • »"^ ,„,,,„, there can be no
,h h.rbou, ..( Honolulu -» .«"' ^ l^ " « J.„„, .„„„„.. .u,.-,. U..".
: . . >w,.<" •■' '' "^ "" ""■ ""J ';l V -> I-- "•' "" '■•'"•>■ r
,,,.ern ^ae. ana by pae« enei u ^^^^ ontruncc
OAlir HoNoMLr-KAIAr.
KHrj
there i" «
linn water,
1) l)cU«»»«r.
liar i«cu"«»n»
l\irr«-f"»"C,
ctt of win J
i comU n""^
an f».Uown,
imn.l t'>piH'»
N. Tli»»»«»l'
ipon it nt low
un^er "houia
ill coinc off »f
P btitl at»chor-
nrinj; Nl'- by
Ihc beU bui.y
the best tim.\
ibe tin«li' wiiul
li the iu«l "f '*
\,.iaU» ri-iuly I"
HilUout « l'»li>l
t veiweU of *"y
,VU ovi'i ibc Ur
ft., anil ibat i'»-
thcrc can be n.»
.alf-U.lci. Ibil't
than 1« or I'J ft.
rirnrtl "taten ibat
prtaninK ojMTa-
„«u survey. lher«
1 Uaain^t inl*> the
can bvioVH on iW
„ its wrttcru nJi-.
irauco.
,arv.'H bare to moor
.,„^...,i.■nl di^t""""
on the reef, on tlie Wri>l iii(l«' of the harttoiir ; it in ailtimible to 'noor with lli«
VFMi'l'H brad about N I! , uh beuvy H<|uallii bl (in iinrb<»r
UP It r fiMit, BH the wind fiiMiucntly nliiftM t4> the S.W. and blow* itronj;, but
with »ii*!iciriit w.irniiin to prepare for it.
The jmMaj»e through tlie reef into the liarliour, though wrll buoyed nnil
beneonod, in dnnKerou", and ohuuld not bt- utteni|iti-d, even if tiie wind l>e fuir,
XMttiont n thorough kimwleilj^e of the port. From the mitiT unclinrajfc run
nlon^ Khore in nothing 1cm
channel over tin- bar. Wlu-n over thi- bur, stand on betwcin tlie buoyn ami
pile iM'aeon*, — tliu «lepth in the channel bf'iin^ from >'ti to ♦> fathomn. 'I'lii're i»
alway* a heavy nwcII on the bar with southerly windii, niakint; it dangerou*.
Any one iinuncd to the port should always taki* a pilot. The hurbuur atfurd*
nceommodation fur »« many aa '200 vcaaeU at a time.
laeut. Fleet, II M.S. (ianttet, 18H0, ■tatet that ahm^ide tlie coaling wharf,
veiMcU will have near the Huuth end about 4 futhoiui under il.ti keel, 4^
fathoniH on the off nide, niid .'I fathomn close to the wharf; Hlcam-^t mcU draw-
ill); 2'J ft. secure ulun;j;«idu the wharf. Welsh cuhI can be nuiLhuaed fur 1 1^
dollam a tun.
Much of the co-M bnnk« in exposed at low water. In con«eqii>«nce of tho
tea that roll* u^tr the reef, and breaks in 4 or ^ fathoraa wati-r, lioata munt
follu<- he name channel uh large ship*, or in all probability they «dl bo run un
the reefs, or be upset.
There are Mvcral pilots always ready to conduct vesneU into and out of tho
harbour; and tl.ere are aUo steam-tugs fur towage.
'J'iJeK. -It is hi^h water, on full and change, ut 4*' 2.1"", the rise and full
licidH 21 ft. at Hpnn;;^ ; but the tides here iiro much affected by the winds,
^iili'n whether from North or Souths bnnginK high tiiles, and a rise of ;i ft.
>Sed uf two words — a Tauai, literally «« I'auai.
The meaning of the word tauai is, to light upon, t.r to dry in the sun ; and the
uuiiie, accordiug to the lulo king, was derived from the U.ujr droughta which
3BMH
I ;
1100
TIIK SANDWICH ISLANDS.
Boinrtiinos prcvuiloil, or the larjjc pii-coa of tiinhtT (jcrnNiotinlly washed ou its
Bhorc§ (KIUh). 'llii« isliiml i» inlcrfsling i»« boing the lirst lanil of the K^oup
visitnl liv ('iM>k on their dis •» fry. "<»n Suiidav, Janufirv IK, 177s. ot day-
bnnk, an island ^Oahu) nmde it* a|)|H-arancc', and soon aflor «esaw more land
bt-arinj; Nortli. and i-ntircly dtUidud from the former." On the I'Jth he an-
chored in Waiinea Hny, on the St»uth side of Kauai, and was received by the
a.''Umi8hed natives with profound humility and reverence, a circumxtancu which
has (.inee iH-iri accounted for at* stiitetl in our intnxluctory ob«ervation«.
The islan.l i.s 'JS mileh lonjj. N.K. by K. i E. and S.W. by W. i W , and
abtiut '.'.'i indeii in );reateiit bn>adlh, the channel .H-paratii I milen broad. Like the rcttt of the archipelago, it i» of
volcanic formation. Its N.K. and N.W. sides arc broken and rugged, but to
the Sonlli it is more even. Tl-e hills heri' rise with n gridiial slope, and at
eoino di^lanee from the ^hore are covered with wood. '1 his is one of Uic best
cultivattnl of the islands, and even when tir^t discovcretl the plantations of tho
nativcfl were manage»l with in.lu!oint, a dangerous breaking spit extending nearly across from the
tsouth point. The channel passes westwaril of this spit, and leads to the har-
bour, in which there is a deprh of 2J to 4 fathoms. At the North end of the
bay is a wharf for shipping sugar, rice, \c . but the approach to it is verv
b!ialli)w. The observation spot. 1 cable to the .•>oulhward, is in lat. 'n '>'' OU N ,
KATAI-KALOA HAY-WATMKA 1«AY
1101
icd ou its
the group
«, at day-
more laiul
yih he nn-
ed by the
mice which
onH.
i W , ntul
t);ihu bi'iiiK
lugo, it is i>f
;od, but to
H>o, and ut
of U»c l>ct.t
ition» of iho
[)int of iho
5.000 ft. ;
a view of
at
u
indS. H^W.
ei i?* i» rounil-
d hill that i!».
mtaius of the
u\\ alon^ the
, htri' in most
r tho »outhi-n\
island, foniu-tl
•ulurly into the
.f N.W. of »t.
vard. ISctwcen
to bouts only
on thin part of
iui» btlongiiin to
ttlc and (tlutp.
it, !•< an indonta-
[ WoHt, and the
nd ihoaU. The
o the North fc^-
acroM from the
leadi* to the har-
North en«l «>f the
Bch to it in very
lut. '^1 •>' ^^ ^ •
Inn*;. ITiO 27 20' \\. It is high water, ou full and change, at U" 45" ; the rise
in 2i to a ft.
Ilulei;» lliver nin< into the S.W. anpic of the bay. and hero is the villapc of
Niiinmlii, 2 miles northward of which in Lihue, the centre of one uf the largettt
anil oldest sugar districts, the water for irrigation being supplied by a canal 10
miles long. Wailua Hirer. 5 miles norttiword of the harbour, has a depth of
about 20 fitthoniH inside the bar. and is navigable for 5 miles.
Koloa Bay will Im.> recognised hy the town, which has mnny high buildings,
and extends from the beach to a distance of 2 miles up the s1o]>g of the hill,
also by a low point with a sandy patch on its western side, situated between
the town and Koloa Point. From this low (mint a rocky ledge extends out a
short diMtJince, and somewhat protect* the anchorage. A red huoy for the mail
(iteamer is m f:ir as Point Mana or Kolo, the westernmost point
of Kauai.
Waimea Bay, on the South side. !•* the best nnchoring-place at the island,
except in the months of January and Fihruary, when the tray ravines or gulches. Tho town or village, which
has about 1,200 inhabitants, takes its name from a river which, af\cr a courso
of about 16 miles, falls into the sea at the place. Ituats may ascend it for about
three-quarters of a mile, and this is the only water that is not brackish. On
the Kact side of the river entrance arc the ruins of a stuuc fort, built by the
Russians in 1815, but soon after abandoned.
Waimea Kay may be recognised by Kona Feak, which is of reddish appear-
ance, and a conspicuous church in the village. With the church bcutuig .\. I I'..,
a good berth will be found in 10 to 15 fathoms. — Lieut. Child.
The coast to the wi-stward of Waimea consitUi of a sandy plain, from one-
fourth to a mile wide, and 150 ft. above the sea, whence it rises gradually to
tlic mountains. It has a sunburnt appearance, and is destitute of tries. On
tho low grounds the cocoa-nut tree llirivt>. and tiic sea-ooant i» ^•l>Il^ide^ed
the best ground fur fishing, and the maiuifuclurc of salt might be exlviiaively
carried on.
Near Waimea are some curious sand-hills, about fiO ft. high, called tho
" Harking Sands;" when the sand is set m motion by sliding down thcui, a
Muad like Hubterruneau thunder is emitted.
Point Mana, the Wo»t point of the island, is in lat. 22" \\' N., long.
159== 4"^' W., and off it a reef of rocks extends about half a mile from shore.
Near this the country assumes a very ditforeNt aspect ; from hence to iianalei
Hay the coast has a rcry rugged and romantic Bp|>earance, rising suddenly to
lofty, abrupt clitfs, which jut out into a variety of stifp, rugged, rocky points,
apparently destitute both of soil and verdure, but U-rminaling nearly m uniform
summits, on which, as in the valliys, are patches of lively green, producing a
singular eifect.
Hanalae or Hanalei Bay lies on the North side of the island ; Copt. Wilkos
calls it IlaUUa, signifying the land or place of rainlM)ws, a name arising from
the frequent rains, which clothe the country in ]>erpetual green. The village
ii, at the head of the bay, which is of bcuiiciicuLu form, a liltk* o>cr a mile m
i
KAUAI-TIANALEI BAY-NmAlT.
1103
; road,
I trado
n, nnd
regions
oint of
n con-
ic PIM»t-
into 4 J
». Tl.c
iinburnt
ini, anil
?, which
a courHC
or about
•h. On
I by the
1 appear-
rom one-
.(hmlly to
.■c». On
mxidercil
LlCUslVfly
-allfd thu
litem, u
N., long.
ini nhore.
to lianalci
idilcnly to
'ky poiuU,
m uniform
,pt. Wilkea
i»in>; from
he villuf^e
:r a luilc tu
width. Reefs and shallow water extend 2) to 4 oableafrom the shore, outitidc
which the depth varici waly from 6 to 7 fathoms.
It may be recognised by Na Pali Point, just West of the entnmee. This
point is the termination of some high land which slopes suddenly to the sea,
some parts of the slope forming several needle peaks. On the extremity of the
point there is a smuU hill, and a reef extends about three-quarters of a mile
from the point On the East side of the tntrance is a dark, bluff head, with
two sandy beaches a short distance to the eastward ; a reef extends about 3
cables from it. A remarkable conical hill bearing S.S.E. will lead to the an-
chorn(;o ; a good berth will be found in 7 fathoms with the cutranoe tu tho river
bearing K. by N., distant about 4 cables. — Lifut. Child.
Ilanalae, Itesides bullocks (noble animals, and meat iw fine as in England),
and vegetables of the finest quality, furnishes ft-uits, poultry, turkeys, kc,
elieap, and in abundance. Water can be filled in the boats, by sending them
into the river. — i llclchor, vol. i., p. 61.) Here is the Princeville sugar
j)laiitJ»tion, which was originally i)lunted with cotTee, but the trees became
blighted.
In Auf^ust the onchorage is safe, but when the N.W. gales blow, a very
hoavy 8oa must timible into the bay. Cnj)!. Sir K. Holchor was informed that
a Kussiuu store-ship rode out the season in spite of everjthing. The anchorage
is pretty well covered by a spit, over whicli there is alK)ut 'J ft. ; but there is
not surticient space in bad weather for more than three vessels, although in the
tino season the bay is spacious.
Till! laiiiliiig is within the mouth of a small river, near the western point of
tin- bay, w liicli carries, for a considerable distance up, from one to threc-iiuarters
of a fathom, into fresh water, and is further navigable for boats or canoes
(drawing 'i ft.) several miles.
T!;^ sctnery is beautiful, and it is surprising that such a favourable spot
should so long have bccii overlooked. The consul possesses a tract of land, on
which his tenant feeds cattle, makes butter and cheese, and farms to great ad-
vantage. I am certain that our men derived more nourishment from the cattle
we embarked tJiere than from any previous diet, and, contrarj* to the general
f«H'ling, preferred it to salt, regretting its loss. I would, therefore, strongly
advini- siiips of war to sacritice much to secure these advantages. — Sir Edward
lirlcher.
Six large rivers flow into the sea on the North coast of Kauai, East ond
West of Hanaloi Hay, irrigating a fruitful district, containing many large
sugar plantations. At miles westward of JIuualei Boy is the small harbour
of Hiuna.
NIIHAU {Onerow or Oneeheotv)\\c» ITJ miles W.S.W. of Kauai, the channel
between being called Kumukahi or Katdaka Pa*»aye. The island is about 15
miles long. N.N.E. ar.d S.S.W., and 2 to 7 miles broad. The eastern side is
rocky and unfit for cultivation, nor is there any si olier or anchorage on it.
1104
THR SANDWICH ISLANDS.
I! ' -
I
1
I
It is compnratively low, and with tho exception of fruit trees, wliich are
carefully cultivated, it is deiititutc of wcwd. 'Flic soil is too dry to produce
tare, but on that account it is will udnpted to the growtli uf yarns, &o., which
are very czccllcut, and of an enormous xize.
Niihau was famous for its yanm, fruit, and mats, and was the property of
the king, but was purchased by Mr. Sinclair, a New Zealand settler from the
Canterbury district, who removed here with his family, and used the island
exclusively as a sheep-walk. In 1877 there were about 75,000 nheep on tho
island, tlic inhabitanu, 233 in number, In-ing mostly in the employ of tho
owner.
The natives wen- a darker rnee than those on Oahu, and reminded Captain
Beeehcy strongly of t}io«e on How Island. They lived almost entirely ou the
westom shore, and were very jKx>r.
Yam Bay. — t>n the western roint of the islanii, in II fathoms, about ihreo-cjuarters of a mile
offshore, bottom soft, sandy, nyular, and gooti, the S.K. point of the island
bearing S. 77' K. ; the West point, N. -Ih W.; and Kaula Inland, 8. .58^ W.
He afterwards anchored in Yam Hay, in IM fathoms, with the N.W. point
bcarini; N. 2.i W., 1^ mile otf; the West point. S. l.V K. ; and Kaula,
S. a:\ W. ; but this |K»»ition, though the general rende/vuus for ships, wa» a
much worse jxwition than the former one.
Cook anchored wcntward of the S.W. poir • during a strong easterly gale,
one anchor in '20, the other in '2f> fathom*, the South point beariiij; K.S.K., and
the bluff Ik aad, .N.Iv by N.
.\dmiral Heechoy says: — Tlierc is but one place in this bay, the same in
which ^'aIicouver anchored, on the western side, where the boat of a man-of-
war can effect a landing with safety when tho sea sets into the bay, which is
of very common occurrence ; this in on il» northern shore, behind a small reef
of rocks that he* a little way off the beach ; and even here it is necessary to
guard against sunken rocks; off the western point these breakers extend 1^
mile. The soundings in the bay are regular, up»twiu-d good anchorag*', if rec«ring S W ; the extreme of the reef off Kona I'oint,
N. } E. ; and the church, .N.K. by K. \ K Tlie landing-place is protected
by some rocks in the N.K part of the bay, and is situated just inside a luva
patch, which from si-award appears like a point; with a hea%y nwcII, landing
I
*?. «;
NIIIIAU- KAULA— HIllI) ISLAND.
110.5
i» iinpracticaljlc. Whalers occa«iona!ly call hcru for fresh iKcat, but the sheep
beinj; bred for their wool only, very Uttle meat can l>e obtained.
Dirertions. — Vessel!* bound to Cook'n An»!'oraf;e from the north-eastward
ore recommended to j)a.ss about lialf a mile North uf Oreehoua Islet, and keep
about 2 miles oiF alonj; tlie western shore of Niiiiau, as the trad"; wind blows
more from the northward on this side of the island. Nona Point, about .5 miles
North of tlie anehoraj^e, is a lonj;, low, sandy point, having; a roek iHft. iibovc
water near it; the reef, whieh extends a short distance outride this roek,
should not be apj)roaehed nearer llian three-quarters of a mili-. Wlien the
landing-place bears K. by N., it may be steered for. the soundin;^s decreasing
gradually to \1 and 9 fitlioins. As the rollers set in with but little warning;,
eajlinj; vessels should proceed to seu un the first indication of them.
Lehtia, Oreehoua, or Kij«rd of a >.inKll, low, uninhalitud ielmd, callod Tammatapappa,
Hmtoo-p^ftu^pti, Ki>modtK,jtapp(• ft. in extent — where it appeared
pns.siiilf in tlif tinr-tt wcatlu r to Innd. The nienof-war bird« eame round the
hont in nome uuikImth. and were troublewoinc ; no senls, aen-lionK, or animnli of
nnv dcKcription were obwrved, nor any ap|M»ainnr<> of miano. I'rom the forma-
tion of the nx-k. and the larjte amount of heavy rain that falls in ita vicinity,
it is not p<><*sil>l«- tliat any (piantity eould aeeumulat*' ; nor were binU teen in
sui'h (juantitu-s as to warrant the expoctution. 'I'hc position uf the N.W. peak
is lat. -2^ X 15 N.. h.uK H'T 45 W.
The surveyinn-schiMiner h'rnimorr Cooper pnMed within a mile of this island.
It was found to lie nlKiut half ii mile long. Kast nnd NN'est, by a ({uartcr of n
tnilf iti width, with a ]M«nk at each extremity, the eastern one of which was
made out to he '>'^\ ft hi^h. ( apl I'atty, of the schooner Muunuiaiini, thinks
landini; praetieahle, althoui;h Tery difficult, at a small spur of santly beach on
the Nouth liide. where he also found a small drain of fr(>«h water, and saw n
ft w seals and plenty of birds. There is nnchorapc at from one-quarter of a mile
to '2 miles otf tlie South side, in from 7 to 17 fathoma.
This concludes the description of the islands composing the Hawaiian
Arehi|»ela^'o In tin- suhsefpi'iit pam^n-aphs wo shall i:;eluile all the islands to
the northward of lat 20 , suuie of wluch lie U) the cii«tward uf Uic Saudwich
Islands.
M'TACIir.l) ISI,ANI).< AM) SHOALS TO TUR NOUTH OF
LAT. 20 N.
Tlie north-eastern part of the North I'aeifie Ocean 5s sinfjularly free from
i«iilated nef> or losition was generally of the loosest character. I'suallr
kfcpiii'^ no proper dead reckoning, drifted in all directions by unheeded
currlnt^. very long o>it of sight of land in pursuit of their prey, they had
often no means of giving o correct longitude or even latitude, and the ffreat
sinulurity which exists among most of the coral reefs and islands, renders their
recognition when utiinhahitid very dittieult. In conH«'(pience of this, the chart
id ;ij>jiarentU bestuwcd with daiigiT*. whieli it is certain do nf>t exist in the
gjsSi
->ng the island to
lodrrate weather.
; rould onlj «re
■here it appeared
came round the
m«, or animiiU of
l-'roin the fortna-
I in ita Ticinity,
?rp binU wvn in
rUicN.W. peak
ih*of thin island,
y a ({iiartcr of a
ic of whirh wnn
inaiawai, thiiikH
luintlj bearh on
ater, and nnw n
quarter uf a mile
; the Hawaiian
til the island* to
uf Uie Saudwich
LOS ALM08- (iUADALUPE ISLAND.
1107
nvTu op
ilarly free fn>in
landN or vi(fia.M.
i; danger*, coral
Ifo czU'nl by ihf
n but little con-
ittl«>r«. a claas of
iracter. rnuallr
in by unheeded
prey, they had
', and the great
il«. rendrm their
f this, the chart
lot eiist in the
number* specified, but of ni.my of which we have no niciuiit of dt-ciding as to
their nu-rita.
For further information, rcfi'mirc should bo mnih' to the '* l.i^ts of Uopoitcd
Dnngera to Navigation in tlie PuciKc Oceiui," fon)|iil(Ml at thu I'.S. Hureau of
Navi);ntion, but reference will be mude in the uUHuiiig puges to those reports
which ar« worthy of utteutiun.
LOS ALIJOS, or Farallonei Alijoa, Ijinj,' nearly 20i) miles westward of the
aouthern portion of the C'uliforiiinu peninsula, have been alhnied to on pa^e
IS."). It is a danjjeious reef, composed of four j)rineipal rocks, which, in
nenriiig theiii, show themselves successively. They exteml about half a mile
Ntirth and South, antl not over a cable Kast and NN'est, the smithernmost and
highest beiii^ 1 IJ ft. high, and the northernmost 7'2 ft. Mesides these tlii-re
are numerous smaller rocks, the whole at a di>tance haviiit; so much the ap-
pearance of ships under sail, that such an error, easily made at ni<;ht, would
eipose a vessel to the greatest dangers. The name of these rocks, first dis-
covered in 1791, by CapUiin .Mar<{uina, in coining; from tlu- l'hilij)pines, and
not again reported until Admiral I)u I'etit Thouars' examination, is e.\|)ressive
of their dangerous character — "rocks which land a ship's cargo." The latest
observatious place the southern rock in lut. 24^ 68' N., long. 116~ 52' 30 \V.
OUASALTJFI ISLAND lies about 140 miles off the northern part of the
peninsula of Lower California. It is about 15 miles long. North and South,
by 3 to 5 miles broad, and is very lofty in the interior, a chain of hills ex-
tending throtigh the wliole length of the island. The highest of these hills,
near the North point of the island, is estimated to be 4,.'y'2',i ft. in elevation,
and one near the centre, 3,68 1 ft. The island can bo seen at a distance of
about fiO miles, and will ap]>ear, when bearing either East or WcBt, lower at
ita southern extremity than at its northern.
Off the South end of the island, within a distance of 1 j mile, arc two rocky
isleta, the outermost of which is ')(J0 ft. high. The shores are in general bold,
rocky bluffs, with detached rocks close-to, but they have not been closely ex-
amined. No dangers extend beyond one-fourth of a inilr from the island.
The only anchorage is on the S.E. side, in a small cove, fonuetl by u few rocky
islets, which lie off in that direction. I'ere vessels may anchor in 7 fathoms
water, shelteied from all wiuds, excepting from S.E. to E.N.lv, which seldom
blow here.
From unerring indications, there is no doubt that it hiut been once voloanie ;
it is very barren on its South end, but in the northern part there are several
fertile volleys, and the mounUiins ecmtain vegetation. Wood and water may
be obtained from a small cove on the N.E. side of the island, and goals' flesh
may Xx had for the trouble of shooting the animal.
This island was generally sighted by the Sv»j*tijJ^t' wh»iM bound to the south
I !
i
HOB
ISLANDS AM) SUOALS NOUTH OF LAT. 20 N.
waril from MuDtoroy, or from their other northern entHtiliMhnients ; in nhich
rout4^ thoy pniMoil to the wc>«twaril, out of si^ht of thoM< iaiandt which form
the Channel of Santa linrlmrn, for the ndvaiita^e of continuing in the iitrrnKth
of the N.W. windH ; and thun tliey reitchtnl the inlami of (iuiidaln]M-, from
whence they ^t^'ored a cour»e for CajH? San Lucas. The Nortli point of (iuada-
luiH? i« in lat. 2'r 10 50' N., long, lis 18 aO" W*
Andrews Island, in lat. '21" 30' N.. long. 131° 20' W., wna nefn by ihe
hnrijue I>rnlikliipu, Hiid thi-n i'«|li>r«t on the |mrall<'l
whi'To an ininnd h*"! luttly l>w»i ri'jorted, to fall into thi> pnnilli'l :■( Shfir<>f, .S'Ar/t>or*«,
SKalrrtt, or Shf^ri I'Utui . »\rfTV a nxtifly tn ('ii|>». S«n IiUcim, un'il I had Kiiffici>'ntlv (]<••
t«-nnin««d its iii'ii-txuti'nri' within ..i» mili* Fjt't ..r \\'.»t nf il« liaxif^nnl poaition. 'I'lio
Vi-nus hInc went ovur the wmc »froiiiiil on nuarly th<- tumv urrand, and witli lik« i.icrcu."
Till- I'.S. r\i\\'» Vfhi.an und Xar a^^Hirft (MtanlioJ lt>r it unsui-oi-wfiilly.
l.n/anir /iii.-i, Hiiid to huvf tx<'n tern \-y Uif Fn ruh cummnndur of that natno, in tho
Jrmn ISrrrf, S,'pt4>fnb««r, IMS. in Ut ^V \t W N., long. Vih' 0' W.. nhowoiK %» thrt-*.
pointa or peuks, 2fi or 30 ft. hint^, ti niowt imprutuiM'' in thui fpivat bii^hwiiy.
t IlmHrrmm hlaini. mirkod at KiO mili-s Kait of thin, if prubably inlt'nJi'd for thr inl.tnd
in Kju'h l^iMtiido. I . aiiditi'.n lo thii> ih' f"llu»iinr nm) U' boIumiI hero Ka^t ut llawiiii . —
JVVv I$U^>l^, lat. 2"" 2'>' N , long. i:J3* o' W , fr .m whaW rrport.
Ottfmr Rotk, lat. 2' 4h' N., loii^f 131" .''V W., or in 2.V 30' N, lon»f.
I.i3° W niid po»iti<.n wa« »ou»;ht ovit, wtth N , loii;: t.)(>" '>i' \V . and nlnoin
riniiUr E>un lontritiid", may If rt'p< litioitK ul tiiv aamn report. It wm not funud hy the
tiarraijanKlt in tli< htttvr poaition.
Muna I.ajara, Ut 27* 47' N., lon^. 1J»* 2fi W., wad not found ly thi> I'.ttmitulk , but
thia, U-^idtH i>4'Vfnil uther pnaiiiona nunr it, hua Ut-n pUcnl in longitude 144* 3U \V., .ti.d
\jt- \V. A th»a .l/«'i.i Aa.-o.ion iK>in«- o!d chartn. tmt ont- of ihi -hijia of Ihi- I'nittsl ."^Uiii,' K\-
plorin^ Kxps. Tho
Tusctrora suundud iu ;i, 540 fathoiui .luar tht> giruu iMj-i'.ion of I'liiludclpbiu I.-.liiud.
I'tilmtr Jiet/iit «Lm) improbublo. It wiim siiid to havt tiffu wen in tbo Kintijlthfr, in I. it.
iV •i.',' N., lonK. I'i-' ^i' W., but it in ulay uu the truck uf iLu Uuiltd .Siai.««' Kxpluriuj
i;x(«Jition, Julv 7th, lb41.
w
t
ill— -I
i
i
1110
ISLANns AND SlIOAT,S NORTH OF LAT. 20 N.
4Hch longitutliiml cilromity. ihi- wrsUTn oncalM»ut 'Jho f». high, ami the rnntfrn
ono 250 ft. ; a muall isltind. ab«>ul 100 yurdii to ihc North, isconiipotod witli th«'
Urgpr by a rcof. lie found from 15 to In fathom* wutor nt '2 iiiilo* «liKt,iii«r,
in k north -fai»terly direction, ('apt. ratty, of tho .lAiMrid^dirai. could not (iml
twy lanilin(;-|>lnco for boati, a* tho iuif hroki- all around.
It waa Timtcd noon afWr by Cnpt. lin»ok!«, in thr (lamhia IIp any* :— Tlii*
ialand is rocky, and about 1^ to J miluH lon^. kurroundcd by a bank making off
to the wujthwurd about 5(' niilrn, accordiiiff to dipt. I.onj^'* Atntt-mcnt. Cnpt.
Ilrooks crowicd in lat. 'J'i 14 , and found it to he about 15 niiica nrro** from
Ka*t to Wist. The wmtrrn edge in wry abrupt; the discolnuratiun of thi>
water ninv be sctMi nt a di^tanor of 3 mile* from tho m.ist-head. Soundin^i
ore fn)m deep M'a to 14 fathom*, which diH'|H>n to tbe ea*twnrd gnidunlly tn
•bout S5 fikthomt. at a di»t«nco t)f 1.') milo!* A vps*el crossing thi* reef by
heaTing-to can take any tjunnlity of ti*h of \cry tine quality. Tlicro i»n ravine
makes down from the S K eml of the ro(>k, wherw at *ome fwawons there i.s
water. A boat may land in good weather at the foot uf this gulch.*
FKENCH FKI0ATE8 SHOAL ^Ba»»f dti Fn^'ialn Fmn^aiaeitJ lies to tlir
westward of the Sandwich Islundtt. and wo* uIhu di*coverea*8age from Monterey to Macao, lie
described it aa a rocky bunk, nion- than I'i miles in extent, and even with tho
water's edge, having on iti* N W. extremity an islet, or bare rock, 100 yard* in
diameter, and 40 or 50 yard* lu height. The •}>aco between this rock and tli«
breakers was (X'cupied by ihrff Bui.d-liunkK, rai'ied about 4 ft. al)ove the surface
of the water. The astron'uuor, M. Dagclet, made the islet in lat. 23" 45 N ,
long. 165" 50', and the eastern point of the reef ia long. 165" 40'. Captain
Stouikowitch gives it the same position.
It remained unnoticed for many year*, except by *omc wrecks upon it, attri-
buted, but in all probability without reason, to its wrong position on the chart.
I)ut whi-n the guano excitement aroHe, it wa* examined by Lieut, lirooke, in
the U.S. hchoouer Fenimort Co-'ptr, in 1869, who reportitl large depowits of
that Bubittanco. He made the inlet in the centre to be in lat. 23* 4G N., long.
• Dtrkrrt UlanH, a wh*W report, in 23* 24' N., Irt.T ft' W., unJ r1i»<> in \.\v sftrno EoC>.
fl
w
20' N.
h, and the ptiKtcrn
)nMortc«I witli tht<
2 niilo* diKlJincf,
ai, could not find
Up wiy»:— Tliiii
bunk making off
tntt-nu-nt. Cnpt.
lilfs nrro!w from
ilourntiiin of thi-
vfn\. Soundin^jt
ird icrudunlly to
ng this rtcf by
riicrc in n rnvino
MniMins there is
ulcb*
10' W., or 2«> westward of Dagelet'n position. By the same authoritj
the Kiwt oilrcmity in in lat. 2.)^ 44 N., long. IGG- 5' W. j the 8.W. end of the
crcMcent, 23^1 N., ItiO" la W.
Lieut. Ttrooke apont four dnyn in nn oxnminntion of it, nailing all uround und
through the inner pamnges. The iHJet or rock (12U ft. high, 180 ft. base), with
• tniall rock about 250 yiirdu N.N.W. of it, he found in the centre of the reef.
'I'here weru aUo five dry mind-NpitM, the largt'^t thrcc-cpturtorH of a mile long,
bearing from the centre islet N. Tti* K. (true), 4 miles distant; the next, N. 45" K.,
'*> niilen dintant ; then a very small one, N. 11" E., 5 miles; then one N. H^° B.,
4] miles, also Tcry small ; and, lastly, one of half a mile diameter, N. 12" W.,
5 niiles distant from the centre rock. Hesides these, heavy breakers were seen,
N.W. i N., 6 miles from the rock ; then K. by S. ^ S., !> miles ; S.K. by K. i E.,
6 miles ; and S.W. } S., 5^ miles from the rock. A passage w-as found nearly
in a straight line from the southward of the N.W. breakers, close by the central
rock (West of it), to the S.E. extren»ity of the reef, in from 12 to 17 fathoms,
broken shells, rock, sand, and corul. Lieut. Brooke's position of the central
rock is from the mean of a number of excellent observations. His bearings, as
given above, are true ; the variation he made (1859) to be 9° L5' E.
It was subsequently visited by Capt. N. C. Hrooks, in the American biirquo
Gambia, in May, 1H59, and with the Modern Times, for the purpose of re^
moving the guano, but none could be found. He says : —
Next visited French Frigates Shoal, situated in lot. 23" 46' N., long.
100° 14 W., or rather this is the jmsition of the principal rock, on which A
very large and extensive deposit of guano had l)een rejKjrted to e.xist. Tl>e reef
is cr<»«cent-«hapod, convex to the north-eiistwanl, and about 45 mile* in cir-
euinferenc*\ 'llie position as given by Cupt. Hr(K)ks, of th« damhia, differs
from Lieut. Brooke, of the U.S. Hiirx'eying-schooner Fenimore Cooper. Capt.
Brooks is of opinion that his position is the correct one, as he took observa-
tions on both voyoges to the plocc. He also landed on sixteen small islands or
sand-spits which Riirroundcd the rock. One point of the crescent is to the
N.W., and the other hears S.S.K. The shoal is proteote*! on the N.E. and
S.K. by a reef on which the sinf breaks heavily. The guniio rock is about 180
flit long, and 40 ft. wide at the base, and rises very abruptly to the heigUt of
ll'.} ft., forniing a ndge, at each end of which there is a sjMiee of about 12
f-fiunre feet. This rock is situated in about the centre of the shoal, and can
be seen ut a distance of some H miles, and closely resembles a fulI-riggcd brig.
These shoals open to the \N est. There is no dang< r outside of the line of
breakers. There is good anchorage inside, in from 5 to 14 iathoms water. The
largest sand-spit of the group bears about N.K. by E. from the rock, about 4
miles distant. Inside of this spit there is a good harbour, where a vessel of
any draught of water may enter and lie in safety from the sea with good an-
chorage. Water may be obtained on the largest of these spits at about 8 ft.
flii'.
I
II
t
■^ I i
1112 ISI.ANPS AND SHOALS NORTH OF LAT 20 V.
U'liiw the Hurfncc. It it Tcry hr»cki«h. ind strongly itnitrrKiiittitl witli lime.
Tlio nhimU iilxtuiul Hith f'lKh iiml turtle — A'dn/Ko/ .l/wyrttinr, Sf|ttrinlKT, I HOO.
Auiong the nu)r»' riiiiiirknMe wrrckit wan the Ihinirl U'ooii, n whnler, «m
April 1 Ith, IS.Mt. The crvw livrtl on the inlctn fur *onie tiine, hut were rcM-iuHl.
The NomM '^framiin wu tdtnll}- wreckinl on tlicm, Mureh \'.\, iN.i'.J, hut iho
crrw of thnt tomvI were aI»o •uvvil. The lUhtccu wm lust h) uu»t4ikiii^ tli«
rtK'k fur a thip.
Brooka Shoal.— Cnpt. N. C. rtrook*. nfter Irnving Frrnrh Fiijjntew Shivil,
and running 'U) milo* W. by N. ^truc) frt)tn it, cronwil a ihoul tin which he
found 14 fitthomit water, and xnw the iMittotn dixtinetly. Although thi* wnn the
leiwt w.itrr fiiiu\d. tin re tuhv be lew. niid boidtj. thf-\V,tr
Hark, and the I'oilnrti Kock and PolLtnil Itlaml of the Anu-rieant. Aoeurding
to itw diwoverer, it \* a small island, al><>ut a mile in rirruinferenee, anj at it* S.W. point two large rocks running off to the N.W. C.ipt.
Stnniko^itrh place* it in lat 'J.V ;V N., long. K'.H' I ;»0 \V. I.icut. Un.okc,
r S.N., niakiH it* rcntre in lat. '25 40 , anil 'JJ' farther Kast. Hy hi'* ■-
•criptiun it is an inuoceMible nx^k, 17(t ft. high, with a base of about O : ,
and a smaller rock close to itM S.W. extremity, from which a r«H'f makes it
half a mile. .\ luink, with from 17 Ut 'id fathoms water, surrounda the rock,
exU'nding we>tward about 6 uules, and S.W. mure than tt nulvs.
Two Brothers Reef was so namcsition given was lat. 24 14 N., long. IfiH^ MY W. ;
but Capt. N. C Hrooki* »ays that he passed over the imsitinn of an island given
as 24 fi N., \Cu .S.') W., without seeing anything, although there was every
indication of land m the riciuity.
XARO REEF wa« di»covcre miles off. His position of it is
Ut. 25" 46' N., long. 17r 49 K. lu N W. end was placed by Lieut. Hrookc,
U.S.N., in lat. 25 31' N,, long. 170- ;»7f W.
Capt. N. ('. Hrooks says : — We next ran for Maro Shoals, in lat. 25"" 30' N.,
long. 170^ 31 W. These shmds cover an area of atwrnt 35 miles in circum-
ference, are low, and covered with breakers. They may be seen on a clear day
i
4 i
10- N.
intril witli lime.
"H'liUinJM'r, iHfiO.
'. hut Iho
) luuuking tltM
ml on wliich hr
11^1) (Imh whm the
•fd j»rciw uji Vfry
.>ar lU piwitiun,
MARC) m.v.y Dowsivr iikkf i.avsan isiand
1 1 1 .1
from nldft nt A n>il(-> ili«tiin('u ; the (liNcnliirutioii <>f water tuny l>o nnticcil an
■uoii an thu l)n>akciH ari' mcii. The nIhuiIh iir«> onchmril hy n line of iletiirhed
hreuker^, niid hii\c a Mitiidy hottoiii, with I ftUhoiii nf water, — mi rook or luml
above t)tc Niirfactf, nor niiy Ingoun innide. I coiiHJder theiit* HhoiiU very dan*
gerou*. oil at tiineit the hreiikeni iirc low and Nciireely to he iliNtiii^uiHhed front
8en-cn|>N. It in nearly cneireled hy a hunk with l;ooil ar -horage.
DoWMt Reef, on whioh the whaling hrig hnmrhamrha «trurk in 1H72, is
about H miitt< long, N.W. and SI',., ami I tniles troad ; in nonie partn the rp«'f
'\% awanh, and the «ea hrfak«< all over it. 'I hf poKition of thi' centre, as deter-
mined hy the tnii«fer of tlie Hmm hnmrhn, is lat. 2') l;i N., long. 170 38' W.,
and aliout !•'! niiieit South of Maro l{eef.
? wli.iler ^fnr,^,
le .\tiin-i>f- H'ur
aiiN. Aeeording
■nre, and '.i()(i ft.
he N.W. ('apt.
I-icut. Ilrooke,
It. Hy hi>< 'o.
f about dv t.,
r«H'f niakeiH ut
iJnd« the rock,
«• ve««el wliieh
a* the Kreneh
\(\H' 30 W.;
»n inland given
ere wu every
LATSAN or Moller Island ih an American discovery. Cnpt. Staniknwitch,
not knowing that it had Ix-en previously seen, gave it tho name of his vensid.
He describes it an a sniall. low inland, uniidiabited, of a eireular form, with a
lagoon, and fi miles in eireumfi-renoe. I"rom his observaticms it lies in lat.
25" IG N.. long. 171' lit \V. Its hei-ht is about •.'•'> ft.
Lieutenant Mrooke, T S.N., makes itJi centre in lat. 2."» 17' 17 \., long.
17r VJ 47' W., and states it to be '2 miles liin;j, and 1 J tnile broa the land. Outside
of this reef tliere is a bank ,'> miles wide, on which 1 fouiul from II to ID
fathoms water. Vhere is a boat passage inside the reef nearly the whole way
round the island, the only obstruction being cm the South and S, K. sides. Oood
landing can be found anywhere, excepting on the South and S.lv sides; good
anchorage anywhere on the West sido ; the best, however, is about half a mile
from the S.W. point, in from H to I'J fathoms water. It can be apjiroached
from any point of the compass, no dangers existing within half o mile (,f the
reef. On the Kast end of the islaml I found the remains of a wreck, but saw
DO signs of a camp.
There is a lagoon (m the island, about 1 mile long and half a mile wide, with
5 fathoms water in the (cntre, and coral bottom. On the shores of this lagoon
I found salt of good (|ualil,'.
There are (_1m.jH; live palm-trees on the island, 1.') ft. high, and I collected
twenty-five varieties of plants, some of them splendid flowering shrubs, very
fragrant. resend)ling j)lants I have st-en in gardens in lloiiohilu. I saw on the
beach trunks of immense trees, probably drUted from the N.W. coast of America,
Aorth i'acific. 7 ^,
>ii
%'
I i
1114
ISLANDS AND SHOALS NOUTII OF LAT. 20« N.
Tbo island contains a'cout 50 acre* of good ioil. It ia covered with a variety
of lantl and sen binh ; some of the land varioticf are small, and of beautiful
j)hunapc. Hirds' cri^ wi-ro nhundnnt.
'I'lurr is a very Huiall (Irponit of jjunno on this island, but not of suflficiont
({unntity to warrant any uttc-mpt<« to pet it. Dug a well, and found very good
water. The rcofs here abound in Hsh and turtle*
I
4:^-- '--l
LISIANSKY ISLAND was disooverod by Oapt. Lixiansky in the Russian
shij) .Vri'birli utruck on iu* rref on OotolKT l."), 180j, and was nearly
wroiki'il. According to iu* discovorcr's description, it is a snmll, low island,
almost on a level with the sea, excluhive of a small eminence on the caaiein
j>art. ItJ» soil consistJi of coral sand, overgrown with grass and creeping pluuts,
and full of holes. There is no water to l)e found, and consccjucntiy there are
no t.rocs or shrubs. Lisiansky found several large trunks of tnes thrown on to
the bcaeh. He calls the shallow S.K. part of the extensive reef, in the middlo
uf which the i.sland stands, the Xera Shoal, from bis vesttci. I'his is about 1^
mile K.8.E. from the island in his plan.
Capt. I'atty statis tliat the island is 1 J mile long, and the northern port 1
mile wide, ili'vat< il from iO to 40 ft. above the sea. It is surrounded by de-
loehed rocks, which from K.S.K. U) S.W. make otf a« far as the eye can reach.
I'apt. N. C. IJrtK)k8 visited it in the d'ambia, in 1859. He says : — lusiansky,
Lassion, and Pill, are one and the same islaiid. On most ehaiia quite a group
is laid down, but there is only one islantl, situated in lat. 'JG~ N., long. 173" 57' V/.
It IS ;J miles long, and - miles wide, anil is surroundetl by a reef, on which the
si-a breaks lut'Miy. A bank makes oti' several miles, on which there is I'J
fathoms water, shoaling to 8 fathoms near the reef. This reef is about half a
mile from the island on the Kast and North sides; on the West side it extends
in a circular form at a di.stance of 'J^ miles, tJie inside forming a lagoon. This
island should not be approaelied from ihe South, as a line of detached briakers
makes off for r.iaiiy imles, and can warei Iv be cc on the eatum
ud crrrpinj; pluutn,
oi^upiitiy there are
trcpg thrown on to
rvvf, in the M\iddlo
I'iuM id about 1|
e northern part 1
"urrounded by dc-
the eye can reach,
•ays:— Lisiansky,
inti* quite a g^oup
■ Aoug. 173-57' \V.
reef, on which the
which there ia la
?ef ia about half a
est tide it extends
>K a lagoon. Thi»
detached briakcrs
ed from Ma-cajn.
lost. Thic i^llu,d
I to the westward,
itnywhere ouUide
" on a line with
rN of a niilc ajwrt,
to same line, are
■1 about a quarter
ound 1 2 fathom*,
Amorican, January
n:4irii-.l l%tU,Ulp)na
y, uf the schuoQir
LISIANSKY ISLAND.
1115
gradually shoaling towards tht laaJ A vessel mny anchor within half a milo
of the land, in 1 fathoms water, with good anchorage. There arc rocks under
water in this lagoon, wliich may t-asily be avoided by keeping n good look-out
at tlie mast-head. I found about a i:-kn()t current sotting North and South ;
the tide ri'ics and falls 24 inches, (iood wuUt may bo obtained here with very
little trouble. The shoaU abound with finh a id turtle. Laiwling can bo effected
anywhere on tlie island. On the South end, near tlie centre, there has been a
lagoon, but it is now partially overgrown with shrubs.
On the Kast point, about half-way, is a liill about 40 ft. high, with a look-out
pole and cask. On the South end 1 found a ship'.s hou.si whicli had been used
♦o sleep in. On the North end I wiw the trunk of a redwood tree, 12 ft. in
eircuMifcrcnce. On the West ^idc found ;• notice left by ilu' Sajjrun JtlunU, and I'eli island by (.'apt.
I'ell, of the whaling brig Delaware.
Captain Lisiansky places the centre of the island in lat. 26" 2' 18 ' N., long.
173 42 30' W. ; Captain lirooks, as before stated, in lat. 2G N., long.
na-'S?' \\.\
• Xfra Uh»d, in 2")* fiO' N.. 172* 20' V,'., wmS not ceeii liy Capt. I'litly, ttcUuuUtr Miinua-
laiiai, nor by C'ltpl. Urojk^ ia thi> (ram/nu, aa abovo statoJ.
t Some Tory (lou)itf >il ivlnndii have be«a amiuunctxi in this neitfhbviurhool, of which tlia
following iiriy In- inciiti' ut^i ; —
An iti,in4, l.t. 2S' ;),■)■ N., I .n^. 171' if W. (China M.iil.)
Mas'iuhinrttii IshinH, lai. 28' ;iO'. luLj? 17G* dU' W., whaltr r port 0>«ptiin Pii'ty, nf tho
B< hoont r MaHUokaitm, ran ovor tliu |ilac» without Bceiiig it, or J'fitiiiiMpAKt JmrnU, l..t.
28* 20' N., kiiiif. .W 30' W.
A''.. /./.t« idaitly I i»i.'Mt(iky Island, budly spelt, uud piitct-a in Ktul instead of W rat
lt>nfcitud«.
Piakf hiinl, a whilur report, la«. 2r)* 30' N., long. 171' 0' W., is probably Li:ni wh ib'r rojxirt.
J'ulmrr JirfJ, accordiiitj; to Cupttin I'almLl, of ihu Ktn^thtr, lu Ut. 20* bV N. long.
i~i' io \V., Lab i tcul wutir ovut it.
Hi
f
I*
.J
'.-' 4
ii
1^
1116
ISLANDS AM) SHOALS NOIITII OF LAT. '20 N.
A Bank, n-porUd liy Cupl. iVIl, of the l»Ii^ Dflnnare (sec notr below), ia
lilt. 25' 50'. long. 174'" 26', or, nccording to whah-r report, 1" more to the eiutt-
waril, appan-ntly lies to the S.K. of Lisian-ky Islanil. Lieut. Hnxikc, U.8.N.,
of tlio /'ruimiirr ( 'mjirr, foiiiui l«>tli>in at l'>. 17, 18, '20, -■'), anil 40 fathom.-*,
hi'twii-n tiio parallri.s of '2't 13 N. and '-'(')" 'S \., and the meridians of
IT-'i J',* W. and 173 3'J \\*. It appears to he a south-ea-sterly rxtennion of
the bank around Lii^iaiinky, which i.slund the Cmtfirr could not gain yn account
of stormy weather. Nothing turther is known of it.
FEA.EL and HERMES REEF \* un extensive !>hoa1. on which two Driti.sh
whak'-Khips, tlie I'tui I and the Utrmen, were wreekinl on the same night, and
witliin 10 miles of each other. April 26, 1822. They were cast away on the
P^j>t side of the island, and were fortunatr in having favourable weather for
several days, which enabled them to save a great portion of their store*, and
to builil a ves.«.el of uImiuI oO tons from tlu wucks, with which they reached
the ^andwich Isumdh \n suf'ty.
It was vihited by Morrell in 1825, bjr .Stanikowiteh in lR'27,nnd a plan of it
is given by ("apt. 1 lujarrey. There are cousiilerable dilferenccs in the rc^pec,lvc
jKtsitions i\>>igucd by each.*
("apt. Staiukuwitch ^ay^ it consists of Kveral small i.slands, of whicii the two
largest are nametl I'ciiri and lU'rincs, encinled by a reef, through which ;s a
pas.sage by which the Dfiiientua passed tu an anchorage uear the largev of
the two i>lands.
(.'apt. N ('. Ihooks says : — The group consists of miles in circumference, on which the iea bituk.- h'-nvily. h js
ojKii from the \\ ist. TIhti' is a lagoon inside, where mmcIs may lie in .'» tu
16 fathoms, but they cannot a])priiach within 2 wiles of the land. 'Ilu' only
passage to the lagoon is tVvim tlic N.NV. The largest island, which Iwars
K. by S. i S. from the ciilnince, may be aitproached within J miles sjifely.
There is good anchorage anywhere uiit.-n' 8 .o TJ fathoms, but tlie
best is on tlie N.\S side, near the pa«.>am- to the Iftimiri. The current sets to
the North and South at the rate of 2 knots. The tide rises 21 inches ; tiic pre-
vailing winds are from tlie IvS.K.
'i'he largest islands are covered with coarse gracs and trees. I snw the re-
inaiiis of the two wrecks, llie keel, stem, and st -njiost. with three iron Uuiks,
still standing. I brought away a wo'«len inmUir used l'_. the party on sliore.
The remains of the camp still exist on ttp' large island. 1 took iM>sses«ion of
• Mnwrr Itank.-'Vht Amarican briK DrUu-are, II. Hunt, li«'ut»'nsnt-coiiiitiiinr.-i :• tmiik sbovs tht" wati r in Ut. t'^ 2f'< N , loriR. \',\' 'Ih \V , in 1844, wbiih, •«sn
ut s-jmn miK-.i liK It is atAtttJ, hImu, lliat ihcra
ar«i< vcral othors iu the iiL-i)fh)>uurhuui<.i, aiiti J'j uiil< .- lu tLv N<.>(iL uX th .t nuliicil ^buvu.
!0 N.
note below), in
ruore to the eH«t-
Mnx.kc, L'.8.N.,
iiul 10 fallionis,
le moridiims of
rly rxtcnoiun of
b':iiii jii account
hicli two nriti.slt
saint" night, nnj
ast awaj- on the
ible weather for
llioir 8tore», and
h they reached
and a plan of it
in the re^])ccavc
f which the two
ugli which .s :i
»r the large', of
lids, Rurrounded
h.v«vily. h i,
limy he in o to
und. 'llu' oniv
il. which bears
'2 mdcH (Mifelv.
thoins, but the
■ current set* to
nchcst ; the jire-
I Haw the re-
iree iron Uiiikft,
•arty on uliore.
k ]K>()Hei*«ion of
-coifimnndrr, ili».
((■*■*, wUith, Bwn
1, ttinu, tliat ihcre
Hhuuld Iw notirnl
iiulic til abtivu.
PEARL AND HERMES REEF- BROOKS ISLANDS.
1117
this fjroup. A bank nmkes off to the East and North for about a mile, and to
the West for several miles, with fr be 12 miks. Its shape is irregular,
its diameter from North to South 'J.^ miles, from East to West 1<> miles. The
N.E. point of the reef is in hit. 27" 6«' 30' N'., long. 17.5' 4(j W. ; the S.W.
end, lut. 27
175 47' ao'.
l« l.j', loll-. 170- 0' 30 ; the S.E. point, lat. 27" 48, lung.
Gambia Shoal was discovered by ('apt. Hrooks, of the Oamhia, 1850, who
stales it to be U) miles W. by N. from I'earl and Hermes Reef. The bottom
was disiinitiy seen, and had I i fathoms over it. On the latest charts it is
placed about ^(0 miles westward of I'earl and Hermes Reef.
BEOOKS or MIDWAY ISLANDS.— This atoll is of much more interest thnn
its uninhabited ami barren eomliiioii would warrant. It was discovered by
('apt. N. C. Urooks, in the (Jauibia, July 6th, 1S.5U. He called the two lalaiuls
Mi»
I i
1118
ISLANDS AM) SIIOALS NORTH OK LAT. 20" N.
U
.1
It
At the N.W. jwint is h littl? patch of bn'nkfr«i, n few tlv-t^ioht'd rix'ks, and then
comintncoi a C()mj)act coral wull of alnnit 5 ft. elevation, und, ns far nn our
olnHTvution wrnt, from 6 to 20 ft. in width, which contiKues for I J milrs to
tho (H»uthw;ird mill lastwnrd, wlii-n it Itvxe.i itn unif-nnitj- of surface, and pre-
nont.8 a lino of detached ri>«k>, vorj- little mon than auash, for 2^ niilci* to tho
(totithward ; thorr, oJF the loiitrr of Mitkllo Uri»oks Ihlaml, the n)rk« dip under
water, but re-upiK>i>r 2 mile!* to the wty.twartl. from whence they again show
B» a eontinuouM wull for ulniut 4^ milew to the northward and wentward. end-
ing there, and forming the South side of the entrance to Wrllrt Hurhour. Tlie
I iitrance in alH)ut thriv-. (Ihe chart shows the eutrauco
to be only one-tl.inl of a mile wide.)
The mirthern, v«i«ttrn, and southern portions of the reff are steep-to, to the
rocks. Wc >uw tho bottom in two placet* only where the sonndings are shown
on the chart.
On the West side shelteretl anchorage, during the trade winds, con be had
in fn)m 10 to V-^ "athi^iw, but on a very foul liotlom. The best outride an-
chorage is in Srtcard IuhuIb, in 10 to 13 fathoms.
Middki Brooks Island. - At the etinttrn extremity of the reef, or in the »t MuiiHr lirxjokn Ixlatul, uljto pt-ar-shuped, i J mile in length, und
half a mill' wide. It is of a nearly uniform elevation, varying from 6 to 15 (^.,
covcri'd with a growth of hniull «hiul>s. coarse grans, and some vines. The st)il
is all coral, sand, and tihells, except a small |x>rtion on the South side, where
tliere ari' a ftw acres of mould 2 ft. in liepth. No black earth is to Iw found
on this i.vlaud. The btaiii i.> of a dazzUiig whiteneiw. IJy digging -4 to 7 ft.,
water is readied, which becomes potable after standing. lt« North poiut is iu
Ittt. 28- U au' N., long. 177 1« 20 W.
At 1 \ mile West of Middle Hrooks Ireinic on its S.W. extremity. No black earth is to be found
on it; on the ccntt;iry, tlic glaM> fioin the white xaiid distress«>s the eye.
(apt. Hurdett inlormed m.- that lie had miu 260 yards of it wash awav, and
begin to re-form, during tb j fiw Mcuk.s he ha I been a»horc. The sandK])it up
by the N.\V. rocks, which was quite conspicuous when we anchored near it on
the 16th, had almost disapiKaicd by the 27lli, when I landed on it; but, from
the quantity of ^aIul tlnicalH)iil», I picMinu' a jK-rmanent sand island is forming.
On the lower island the ngint ot tin- racilic .Mail ('om]>auy had eslublished
himself, because it borders on tht- harbour.
Welles Harbour is formed very much like that of Honolulu, i» rulhcr more
20" N.
:t\ rtK'ks, nnd then
mi, as far nn uur
s for -t^ inilrH to
surface, nml prr-
ur 2^ iiiiloH tu the
e n)ck« jIij) umlcr
they ngniii »how
(I wctitwaril. piid-
et Ilarhour. 'I'lu-
nurthiTu eiJj;^ to
». shiiwiuj; uIm)\(!
OW8 the eulruiHc
■p steopto, to tho
ludings are shown
indu, can be had
lH.'bt uuU^idu uu-
of, or in the stini
ile in lfii(;th, and
; from <"> to 1 J ft.,
[• vines. The soil
JUlh Ri(h', where
h is to 1)0 found
ijipiti;; -1 to 7 ft.,
North point i.s in
Iflitnd, a small
nile long, threc-
eiitest elevation,
dctaclic 1 cluinj)!*
th of grass, the
:h is to he found
» the eye.
wa-'li a«ay. and
he sMiid ^pit up
hored near it on
in it ; but, from
land is forming.
had establiithed
, ik rulLer wore
BROOKS OR MIDWAY ISLANDS.
1119
roomy nnd ns safe, but ban not quite the sanio depth of water on its bar, having
but from 21 to 16 ft. at low water. The anchorage is in lat. 28-' 14' N., long.
177- 2;r 15' W.
The bar is quite narrow, and has an uneven bottom of coral rock nnd small
sanfl holes. Its deiilh varies from 21 to 16 ft., but changes so often and so
constantly, from 3J to Ji fathoms, as to make it unsafe to count on crossing it
without getting a IJ-fatlioms cast or two. Wc had I'J ft. going in, and two
ca :•< of 18 ft. in going out, both times at low water.
Like Honolulu, the entrance to it is from the West, through a narrow open-
ing in the coral reef 800 ft. across where most contracted. It can be entered
as n ndily as Honolulu at all seasons of the year. Depth of water for anchor-
ing .") to 7 fathoms, while sandy bottom.
This harbour is cut oil" from the liigoon by shoal water n mile in width ; and
our survey, carefully made, does not disclose a passiige anywhere for ships into
the lagoon. It would be possible for a light-draught vessel to get into the
lagoon by pa.-'sing to the northward of the " Middle Ground," and threading
her wny in amonp the rocks, but no channel proper for ships exists.
The lagoon is 2 miles in length, nnd 1 ^ mile wide at its greatest breadth.
Tliere are many coral lumps in it, with froni 1 or 2 fathoms water over them;
otherwise the soundings are regular, over a white sandy bottom.
Welles Ilnrlmur must, therefore, be the resort for shijw drawing less than 18
feet, or, at high water, of a little over that drnught. Vessels of deep draught
must lie in Setvard Roads, picking out a sandy bottom to let go in.
The greatest rise and fall of the tide, obser^'ed during the neap tides, was 18
inches; the lowest 15 inches. Kbb runs 6 J hours, flood .5 J hours. From the
appearance of the beach I suppose the riso of the spring tides is as much as 3
feet, which would allow a deejKJr draught to be carried over the bn,- at those
periods. The bar is well within the entrance, and there i» no swell on it during
the trade winds.
'Jhe flood sots to the northward, the ebb to the southwanl, from 1 to 2 knots.
At Welles Harbour tlic current alunxys ran out to the westward, with very little
strength.
The coral shelf which runs from the N.W. end of the reef to the southern
wall gives very irregular soundings, having deep fissures between the rocks,
and again spaces of sandy bottom. On this slielf. nt our anchorage of the 23rd
of .Vuguwt, we loit one anchor with l*^ f.uhoms of ilinin. and broke the flukes
ofl" another ; could not recover either of them.
Two circuits of the reef, made with good look-outs aloft, disclosed no dan-
gers outlying it ; and, so far J, a our observation goes. Pearl and Hermes Reef
to the eastward, and Ocean Island to the West, ore the only dangers in the
way of dire* approach.
Steamers, in approaching Hrooks Island from the eastward, should make
Middle Brooks Island, and follow the southern wall to the entrance of the hur-
IT
1120
ISLANDS AND SHOALS NOHTII OF I.AT. 20 N.
ill"
W\
¥ ;i
!' i
f i
^i
n
!
't
hour. If coming from the Wont, tlio Lower IMnnd should Ix* nmilc. Siulinp
Tpssrls from the oftntwani, during the trndo »ens'nti«, this portion of the
iskind seems to be emerging. Over all that part of the island where vegetiilinn
is found, there is a suj)erheiul layer of fine, j>orou», grayish Mind ; but geiieniUv
it is devoid of vegetuble mould, iivueath, you come at once to eLMirsti suud and
gravel.
On the South side of the island there is a slight depression, embracing u\tont
6 acres, extemling from N.N.K. to S.S.W. This an u has a superficial stratum
of vegetable mould, from IH inches to 2 feet in depth, mixed with a sUiiiU pi r-
ceulage of guano ; beneath this is a layer of euarite siind of ihc dt pih of I font,
Ml
mm\
T. '20 N.
1(1 lie nindc. Snilinj;
J kcop to norlhwaril
fnir wind for Siwurd
r with rastorly wind.-*,
lower tnn«t of a »liip
th iron band*. On tlir
he met with, nnd some
ir Inpnon bearh, was a
niid nl>io the skeleton
sland two lower masts
re, one of these over 2
1 tlie«p inlands. A fow
rtle abound, but ^ .tN
i;rmt abundance ; we
Is ; among them many
'Iv spot, we add the
iigcon to the Luika-
oral shells "nd sand,
at one point, where
iS in depth.
1 width : while South
d scantier vegetation,
id coral, extends frotn
id the North island,
vo hi','lu'r j)oiiit,s (the
ilh a growth of coarse
:»e of coral roek,ljin'^
(' lagoon. From tiiis
he s.iiuo deelinutioM,
L> island.
the numbers of dead
t, this porli(m of the
and where vegetation
h Mind : but general iy
cc to CL«urtM.< (kUikd and
ion, pmi^rncing alxMit
a superlieial stratum
\«-d with a >n.ull p» i-
f tlic d( plh of 1 foot,
BROOKS OR MIDWAY ISLANDS.
1121
and below this another Btratum of ioosc Htonc, sholls, nnd cornls, closely packed
together, extending down to the hard coral. This foundatitm of the island, as
of the reef, consists of madrepore, mcandrina, nnd porites corol. lUit little of
the red cornl can be found about the island, or in the Ingoon. This embraces
the whole extent of anything like true soil that I was able to find on the island.
This mould is, I think, of sufficient richness to raise potatoes, pens, beans, and
other vegetables adapted to light soils. There is a small amount of guiino mixed
with it; nnd with cultivation it would doubtless become richer by the addition
of decomposed vegetable matter.
The vegetation of the island consists entirely of shrubs, herbs, and coarse
grasses ; none of the shrubs are over 3 to 5 ft. liigh. Of these, nnd the herbs,
the principal families nre the legiuninosn», lobeliaccir, portulacco, and convol-
vulacca). Kome seem to be new species of the different genera of the above
families.
On both ishuids several wells linvo been dug, and water found nt depths of
from 4 to 7 ft. I have tested the water taken from these ns far as the materials
whicli I have will admit. When first collected, the specimens were so full of
Kand nnd organic iiiiimrities in a state of suspension, that it was necessary to
filter them. After filtration, tested by different re-agents, they were found to
be hard, free from organic impurities in solution, to contain carbonic acid, car-
bonate of lime, and a per-centage of chlorides. The quantitative nnnlysis of
these constituents I have been unable to make for want of proper materials, but
have preserved specimens for further experiments. It becomes better adapted
to drinking after standing some time. Captain Ihirdett, of the Pacific Mail
Steam-ship Company, is reported to have found fresh water; but, so far, he
bus chiefly used it for washing, and the specimen sent off to me gave the same
results, when tested, as the others. The water seems to become purer in pro-
portion to the depth ; nnd there is every evidence that wells, properly sunk to
a good depth, would afl'.uil a good supply of potable water.
Immense niunbors of sea-birds nre constantly hovering over and alighting
noon these islands. The bushes and surface of the ground nre thickly covered
with their nests ; while the young birds, unable to fly, are so numerous as to
ninke it difficult to walk any distance without trampling upon them. 'I'he prin-
cipal varieties are gulls, fern, gaiinct, men-of-war, and tropic birds. From sueh
vast numbers there should be a large amount of guano deposited; but, except
in the 5 acres I have spoken of, its accumulation is small, owing to the
looseness or porousness of the soil allowing it to be washed away or filtered
through it.
The lagoon is fidl of fish, seals, nnd turtle. The seal is the phoca vitulina,
or common hair seal, and is not of mueh commercial importance. The fi; h
belong principally to the mullet, perch, nnd mackerel families; many of them
nre of most brilliant colours, nnd seem to be species of the genus con/pheua
I\'oith I'acijic, 1 u
1122 ISLANDS AND SHOALS NORTH OF LAT. 20" N.
(dolphins). Largo quantitio* of the holothurian, bi'chc^ do mcr, exist on tlve
bottom of the sea, both iu»i(lc ftud outside tbo reef, nud can bo gathered with-
out any diffieulty.
During the seventeen days that this vessel remained at the islands, the lowest
point which the thermometer reached was 72\ while the highcat woa 8J>*. The
barometer varied from 29.22 to 30.25.
There appears to be enough true soil, of sufllcicnt depth to raise a good many
vegetables u]>on it at present, nud with but littlt< trouble the extent of this area
niipht be increased.
The watiT in some of the wells now dug mi;jht be uneu in nn emergency,
and doubtless by sinking proj)erly-coiistructcd wills to a suflieient depth, per-
fectly potable water may bo found. Owing to the nature of the soil, these may
be made with but little trouble, and at a very small expense.
r:
|.::;
OCEAN or Cure Island is an Ameriean discovery, the existence of which
wn« coutirmod by Capt. Stanikowitch, of the Imperial Uussian Navy, in 1827.
It i.s a small, low, and very dangerous island, with two sand islets, surrounded
by a reef, on which Capt*. King and Moltino were wrecked in the CiMstotif;
the American whalc-sliip Parker was also lost liere. The principal island is
htatcil to be IJ mile lonj;, and thicc-tjuarters of a mile wide ; and the others
are two small iisUts or band-banks. The opening into the lagoon is on tlie
S.W. side, and is rather less than a mile wide. It was examined by Capt. W.
Keynolds, I'.S.N., in the ship Lackawanna, in 18r>7, and i.s thus described: —
Ocran Islatui i> almost the facsimile of Urook-s Island, as will appear from
.'>.n ins])irtion of the chait. It commences, nKo, witlj a coral wall at it.s N.W,
extreme, wiiieli rontinues witho it a break until it dips under water about the
centre of (irein Island, b\»t does not crop out again. I'loni the end of the
wall the line of breakers continues to their ternunatioii about a mile West uf
the N.W. end of Sand Island; from thence to the N.W. rocks the water is
thoal, and affords no entrance into the lagoon, all of which is shallow water.
(I'rern J>liiitil, in the .'^.E. corner of the lagoon, i.s identical in appearance
from the sea with Middle Brooks Island, except that some portioi, > of tiie
slirubbery appeared to have grown a few feet higher. There is a small sand-
bpil between it and .*^and Island, as is the case at Hrooks Island ; but the Saittl
hlund here has not more than 10 ft. elevation above the level of the sea. The
trunk ^and roots of a large tree wua lying high and dry on the S.E. side of this
Sand Island, and on the N.E. end of Green lalund we saw a ship's lower muat,
which looked as if it had recently got ashore.
This reef is 1 \l miles in circumference ; no outlying d.ingers were seen from
the ma*>t-hcad, and no other lan'W*,><^ftS?yt-^W.*WBWM» „ i W cxtcut of this area
in an emergency,
iflicicnt (Iq)tli, pcr-
tl)ti soil, these minj
existence of which
ian Navy, in 1827.
I islcU, surroundtHl
in the GUdsfone;
prinripal island is
e ; nntl the others
' lajjoon is on tlic
iiined by Caj)t. W.
thus described ; —
will appear from
il wall at iti N.W
L-r water about the
iDUi the cn'l of the
ut a milo West of
ocks the water i.i
< shallow water,
cal in appearance
JO portion . of the
e is a small sand-
md ; but tl»c Sand
el of the sea. Tho
heS.E. .side of this
*hip'« lower must,
jrs were .seen from
'. ; tho N.W. jK)int
slands or j-ocks, in
OCKAN, rATROCINIO, AND MOURELL ISLANDS. 1123
lino East and West, surrounded by a reef, JJO miles in circumference. A bank
makcft off round the reef nt a distance of a milo, with 25 to .30 fathoms water.
The surf makes off to the Kint a quarter of a mile, and to the N.W. 12 miles.
The reef opens to the H.W. for about 15 miles. 'I'hc beht anehorn^e is found
by bringing the N.W. point of the breakers North, in from 7 to I'J fathoms, I
mile from the reef. Tho current sets North and bouth about 2 knots. The tide
rises 22 inches.
They can be approached from any point, and can be seen from the mast-head
8 miles, being about 20 ft. high, and corercd with bushes. On the North end
of the large island, which is 3^ miles long by 1^ mile wide, tlicrc has been n
lagoon, but it is now overgrown. On this island I found the remains of wrecks.
Good water may be obtained on this island. The second island in size is about
2 miles long and half a mile wide, with little vegetation, few fowls, and plenty
of turtle. The third is a mere sand-spit.]
It is probably tlio same as those de.«ieribed ns }fa. |