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A''*'- ' ^'^ '«• ' / i>-^' Mt / rnnuomi j ''t'lMmfiJ C>t^„U \ ■\hnaiia(''t>nA. /■*| 1 :i } l>lKECTORV NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN COASTS, ISLANDS, ETC., PANAMA TO imm^a STRAIT. ANn ITS WINDS, CURRFVTQ Avn t. v^uitKLAjb, A^D Passages. THIRD EDITION. BY ALEXANDER OEoi^^TTj^^ . PUBLISHED BY r/;?S „ I'KEET, EC. 1886. WTEMD AT SliSii;^ HAIL. I r„KFACE TO T,„.; SECOND EDITIOy. >- -ore „,..„ ,,,„ ,, .J; 7'"' ""- ■" "" .- '- .hi, dunge T-.y yc„ ,,„ c.„r„n,u 17 """'", '"" "'""" "''^«" °-"- -"'on. U,,,U.^ l^T":"" '^""'^ ''"'" ■■■- -«'^^b„h., „„.„""; Bohr.ngSca had „„t ■„.„ t...„ '- - »a,.„. Ku.ia„C :;:'.'•■*•■*''•"-'•»-•"■-, .a.™., '"8« i„ ,h, „„„j, „^.^^ J '^ "» g'o,, river Amur, „„» „f ,h, "nous arehi,..,.,^, „„^,^^ ' ■'^^" ™ » .eded e,„„ire, a„d ,„e ""'^ vWeed „„ rare .,,.„,„ ,„, ^ !. ? " ' '"" '^••"""' "« Foduccd, H„„ all m is c,,a,„ed "^"" " Wol,e.de.„,ar .hey Hit- vast extension of Steam „ • . P'oi'oi.^^ ; .he e.ahl.h, ™ :r"" "' '"" "■"°""""'" °'"- -» onhe,„,d.«. ,, We,.er : ;r':r'^''"''''^^ '"o «ove..,p„.e„. --o>«. or ,,. s.a,e Of Cal,;™ a 1 ""'"'' "'■" '""-"--on. Cl.".a and ;a„a„ .„ .he >,„rid. J^, ' T'"" "' ""■ "" ""'"''^^ "f "-«o coa., hy .l,era„„,, ^Z^^'^^' "■' ""'•"" '^ '"^ A.I.,..,, .,„ «»i'»ay .„ sa„ KraneiJ. r ""■""'^""''--.and.heiVi.ic «-ia„TerrUor„„A,„er,,: .he ::" T ""^ ^*^^ ^-'^ "' ...o -n. Of .he e„„,„,eree wi.h .h; ,a, '"'"' "'«»'"»■'■'" -^ "ovelo,,. «'K^.o» i., an .uar.er,,ha etal.:;: "'""*«'- -i'-O"- "54-1 5 ill If PREFACE. countries described in this volume, tliat the chanp;e is astonishing when it it considered in how short a period it has been effected. The present work then refers to a much more important subject than was the case with the preceding edition ; and, with its increase of interest, the improved knowledge of its hydrography will be found to have kept pace. As stated in the introduction to the South Pacific Directory, this edition is differently arranged to the first. In that, the first part referred to the coasts, the second to the islands of the Pacific Ocean. These later editions separate the oceans by the Equator, and each volume describes the area North or South of it, and is thus complete in itself, although they are supplementary to each other. It is scarcely necessary to recount the steps which have been made in our knowledge of the Pacific and its coasts. Up to a very recent time the recital of each voyage was a talo of discovery and adventure. Many of them are familiar household stories. Captain Cook's voyage is scarcely forgotten as a narrative ; yet not a century since he commenced the real work of correctly describing the Pacific. The voyages and 8ur\'eys of Vancouver, 1791 to 1794, arc still the best authority for the coasts of Alaska and British Columbia. At the same period the Spaniards had sent the well known commanders Galiano and Valdes, and also the unfortunate Malaspina, and his companion Dustamcnte ; these are deserving of all good mention. They examined much of the Western coast of America. Admiral Kruscnstcrtiy the hydrographer of the Pacific, follows next in order, and he fiist gave a correct notion of Japan, Okhotsk, and the ad- jacent parts of Asia (in 1803 — 1806) ; and, most important of all, has left an invaluable and noble work on the Pacific (1824, 1827), to which very many of the subsequent pages are indebted. To another Russian officer, Captain Frdddric Lutkc, we still are almost solely indebted for what we know of the inclement Sea of Behring, and of much of the Caroline Archipelago. A third. Otto Von Kotzchue, was sent by the Russian Government to the North Pacific in 1815 — 1818, and surveyed the Marshall Islands and other parts. Of our own countrymen, in later times, the late Admiral Frederick William Bccchey, slaiuis prominent. Ilia voyage in the Blomotn, 1826 — h f h ,»., ■ ■ ''REPACK. "• " '" • "ten"* pomt of vie- „„„,.. » -"■ '.l.nd., ,h„ u..h„ ,„.„j. ;~«_ "'-y^i BchH„« s,r.,-,,,H. s,„j. ■»35.., «.i„ .„„, , .,„ ,.^. ; * ■ ^•-- °.n,™„a„ .„„„„,. . , '««gn«i hi. co„„„„d ,„ c„„/, ., ■• **•*"'■ k"' W„g invalid.,!, he '""■)' P''«»- '^ ' ""' ''««™ining the p„,„i„. ^, 0">i«.ng m.„^ „,.„„ , ^W„ ,p,„„, „^. ^;^ Z^'C'^": "«"'-' under Co.„ed.. n-d no, ,0 be further ,ll„j,j ,„ " '"'''""»"' '""eying «,„.j,„„ Later than thi, „„ may notice .h ^r. S„>^» ^ y «« .'.e Arcie Sea, a. chronid.,, by -knoH^ged a, onr an.hori'il; ""' °""^ ""^ "--^ - d„,y Since the period when fh« r -«e..rorea,,„ded;ot:r:rr""'"''^"----- NO"- Pacifie. Cotnntencing „ith ^n, T """'"" '"'"""« °" "•« 'ke -or. Of Captain ^. ^J„ JoHb Iw ^^^^ "' - '"^ - of Veragna,,in '854. and of the observation, of ^Tt' °" "" "'"""^ °' corvette Z«5.,„,„^„„ ' °' ^■^''^-A*,, of the French On the cession by treaty of the C,I7 ■ S...03, .hat Government inr^diate y*':" '""""^ '" "" ''""^ better kno»,«,ge of i,, coasts, and the 1"?"" "'^" '" '«'"■- ' ".rectory drawn „p by Assistant G„ n T """ '™ "^ !*''«, •nd observations of the US. Coast sf ''■^•''- ''""" ""■ '""ey vi I'KKFACE. ThcM! directioiiit, aunprUcd in Chapter IV ,arc invaluable, and embody all previous olwcr vat ions. The shores of Juan de P'uca Strait were surveyed hy Captair Kellttt in |)<47. Vancouver's work >upplies the basix ot our present knowledge of the inlets to the S.E. of it. Vancouver*!! Island and the adjacent shores of the continent were ad- mirably and minutely surveyed by Captain (i. II. Richards, K.N., C.B., 1850 — 1M65, assisted by several meritorious officers, of whom Captain A'. C. Aliivuf and Messrs. J, A. Hull and I>. render may be mentioned. The Vancouver Island Pilot, drawn up from the observations thus collected, forms the basis of Chapters V. and VI. It will be seen that we have added many im|)ortant details from the very interesting works of Lord Afilhti, Captain Afaym; Mr. Whymper., and other adven,.urous and recent travellers. To the North of this Vancouver's work stdl remains the chief authority. Of Alaska, the older authorities arc still the chief, but of the Sitka Archi- pelago the Russian officers have m.-'.de much bettc charts, published in 1S48 — 1850, chiefly from the surveys of Capt. Yassilicff. Of the remainder of the territory of Alaska it is gratifying to find that our first edition is still considered to be useful, for the United States' Government have recently reprinted that portion as a guide for their newly acquired territory. Proceeding to the north-west, the chief advances made in the hydro- graphy arose out of the French and English Exjieditions to China in 1854-7, and, for the new Russian possessions, their surveys of 1849 — 185J Our knowledge of Japa'i has greatly and rapidly improved. It may be said to have commenced with Commodore Pcrr/s U.S. Expedition in 1M53-4. The singular circumstances related on pages 782-783 as to a re- markable and excellent native map, will be of great interest. It was drawn up by the astronomer Takapasi Lakusiiiinon, who destroyed himself when it was discovered that he had furnished a copy to a European resident. This has served in many parts as a basis of our knowledge, and this, with the surveys of Commanders Ward and liruokcr, R.N., and especially of Commander Charles Bullock, R.N., will api)ear as exact and perfect repre- sentations of the places of greatest i merest. Oil the the dl from I To I i'krfacf: vII Ot the i>lan(Is ami arthi|>claK<»c^ wliith arc dispcrwcl over the surface <»f the North Pacific we cannut ! are distribulctl throughout the following pages, our especial thanks and acknowledgment > are rendered. This volume has Ixx-n long delayed. Many avocations have prevented the author till now from devoting that time to it which the imiwrtancc of its topics would command. However, in now offering it to the nautical world, he trusts that no source of information has Ixx'n c v iMokei urs, he would express the gratification it has been through many years to collect and \ua ge the materials thus submitted. A. G. FINPT.AY London, Sfptemhrr ist, 1870. ':^h ii..>. Since the foregoing Preface was written many changes have taken place, as in other parts of the world, on the coasts and islands of the North i'acific Ocean. The great extension of steam and railway communication on the North American continent, and the opening up of coal deposits in various parts, has led to the settlement of new districts, and the rising up of flourishing towns and villages in places which were almost unvisited at the period when the previous edition of this work was published. Our knowledge of the Coasts, Islands, and Archii>clagoc8, has also been much inoreosed by the researches of Nautical Surveyors and others, who arc mentioned in the introductory remarks at the commencement of each Chapter and in the Notes. The incorporation of the mass of information thus available has led to a material increase in the sixe of the Work, and it is trusted that no useful source of information has been overlooked, to render it a worthy companion of the Author's volumes on the other great Oceans. VV. R. K. London, January 1st, 1886. \ •: . ,■ '■ .' i .' ■• il ' ^,J ■: X -♦* ■■^WW— WPI11>I P f l CONTENTS. SECTIOxN I. PAGE PREFACE tti TABLE OF GEOGUAPIIICAL POSITIONS xL SECTION IT. Chaptku I.— the coast OF CENTRAL AMERICA 1—80 1. The Coabt of Colomiiia: Panama to Point Bvrica ,. 6 2. CoatoRica 81 3. Nicaragua 44 4. San Salvador ^ 04 6. Guatemala 75 Chapter IT.— THE WEST COAST OF MEXICO, betweejt TEnuANTKPEC AND Mazatlan 81 — 126 Chapter III.— THE GULF AND PENINSULA OF LOWER CALIFORNIA 127—203 Chapter IV.— THE COAST OF CALIFORNIA 204-276 Chapter V.— THE COAST OF OREGON, Ere, FROM CHET-KO RIVER TO ADMIRALTY INLET 277-348 CONTEXTS. ""'" n.-VANCODVER ISLAND, BTC. -- <.'-™. ^" -«mm„ cotuMB,A, BTo. . . , """' ~ iHAPTER Vllr—TMP rti-. ,. 724- 776 '■"™.X,.-xn.MrAN.s.AHCHIPELAOO 777—917 SECTION III The Gilbert Arelupelago 923-1027 Tho MarshaU Aix^hijwlago .."..".'* OSS Tho Caroline Archipelago...... '.'.'.*.'' 050 The Palau or PoW laLuKU 870 ^^i-ANDS "^ AIARIANA OK LADRoXfi «ANDW,CH,sjSS ; ™E HAWAIIAN OR '»(i2-ii6a ■^VA /"nr* > I ^^ if. di Pi '-^ ' 111 * 1'' > /■' ./■ / A \ X CONTENTS. SECTION IV. THE PHENOMENA OF, AND DIRECTIONS FOR THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN. Chapter XV.— THE WINDS OF THE NORTH PACIFIC i-aois OCEAN 1166 Chaptek XVI.— the CURRENTS OF THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN 1194 Chapter XVII. — I.— l. Tides, with Tidb Tablks 1219 2. Magai'tic Variation 1228 3. Ice 1229 II.— 1. Density of Ocewi Water 1280 2. Temperature 1231 3. Depth of the Ocean 1232 Chapter XVIII.— PASSAGES 1234 ALPHABETICAL INDEX 1268 ILLUSTRATIONS. 1. Prevalent Surface Currents To face Title 2. The Isthmus of Panama „ pagn 7 3. View of the Volcano of Coseguina „ 60 4. Sun Francisco Harbour „ 239 6. The Strait of Juan de Fuca, Admiralty Inlet, and Pug^t Sound „ 321 6. EKquimalt and Victoria Harbours , „ 397 7. View of Mount St. Elins „ 6.39 8. China and Japan 777 9. Seto Uchi, or Inland Sea of Japan „ 789 10. Approaches to the Bay of Yedo „ 825 11. The Hawaiian or Sandwich Inlands „ 1063 12. Honolulu Harbour , 1U96 13. View of Honolulu „ 1096 14. Winds of the North Pacific Ocean , 1166 15. Winds of the Central Pacific Ocean (40° N. to 45* S.) „ 1192 16. Currents and Whaling Grounds of the Pacific Ocean , 1196 17. Magnetic Variation and Dip, 1886 „ 1228 18. Bottom Chart , 1233 19. Passagi'S in the North Pacific Ocean , 1236 ■P* 38 )6 14 9 18 9 1 2 nULE OF GWGjimiia IL fOSITIO.Ys I^' TifK WTu PAcmc ocm. im^^ Ih it;'. 41,.^* ■ G] ••• Jtfuni Ci Oaracbine ] I'atino Poin Darion Harl Brava Point Pajaros Isliii Sun Jose Ba Oalera lalan lala del liey Oonz.tl. 8 leli San Jose IhIi Siibogu Isi^n Pelailo l8lnn( Chepillo Islai PANAMA, C N.E. bantifl Flamenco Isli Bona Island, Point Chains, Parita Bay, L Iguana Island Cape Mala, ea Los Fruileg, S Marittto Point Montijo Bay, Fast point o Coiba Island Hennosa or Hicarita, Sout Bahia Honda, Contreras, Brii Port Pueblo Ni Perdo I Secas Ibidrius, ' David Bay, Sai Palenque Islan Paridald,, wat( Liidrones Islanc MontuoBi, 8.E. Burica Point, B Gulf of Dulco, ( Punta Areniti Sal-si-puedes P( Point Llorena, t Cano Island, \V( Point m.ila Uuepos Point Mount Jiidiia Port llerradura, TABLE OF GEOGRAPHICAL POSITIONS. %• JUan^ of the position* here given are onhj (iftproxitnate ; the h>njitndea haiv been corrected from the lal ■xC Anlhoritiei. Lftt. North. WCHt. Authorities. Page CENTUAL AMERICA. Oanchine Point, N.E. extreme - , 1, 8 78 22 15 The Survey by Capt. 11. Kellutt, 6 Patino Point, centre of islet 8 16 78 17 45 6 Darion Harbour, Graham Point 8 28 50 78 5 40 K.N., C.B., and 6 Brava Point, West exlrome 8 20 36 78 25 30 Com. .las. Wood, 8 Pajarofl Islands, N.W. Island - .S 32 20 78 33 10 K.N., 1845-49. 8 Hun Jose Bank, TroUopu Uock • 8 6 40 78 38 50 ,, 7 Oalera Island, centre - 8 U 2(» 78 46 45 tl 9 Isla del Key, extreme of Cocos Point 8 12 30 78 64 45 II 9 Gonz:>lt s Island, North ho:id 8 i.i ;iO 79 7 15 tl 9 Han Jose Island, IgiiaDi Point - 8 18 2.5 79 7 30 If lU Habi)gu Island, West point 8 37 10 79 4 50 t% T Pulal 17 Iguana Is and, centre 7 37 6 80 15 II 17 Cape Mala, extreme - 7 27 40 79 69 45 It 17 TiOH Frailes, South Rock 7 19 40 80 8 15 tl 18 Marittto Point, 8.W. extreme - 7 12 80 62 45 1) 18 Montijo Bay, 8.W. pt. of Golmrnador Id.- 7 32 16 81 12 45 11 18 East point of Cobaco Island - 7 33 30 81 1 45 It 18 Coiba Island, Damas Bay, Fc-a Peint • 7 23 45 81 37 25 If 19 Hermosa or West point 7 31 10 81 52 30 11 19 Hicarita, South point 7 12 30 81 46 60 If 20 Bahia Honda, Sentinela Island • 7 42 46 81 32 II 21 Contreras, Brincano Island, North point . 7 62 84 47 16 II 23 Port Pueblo Nuevo, Itocks of Magnetic I.- 8 4 39 81 48 tl 24 Perdo Intrusa Island 8 4 64 81 43 De Kosencoat. 25 Secas Isxinus, La Bruga Uock - 7 59 81 58 45 Kellott&Wood. 26 Uavid Bay, Sai'no Island, South side 8 11 62 82 12 8 Do Uos'eiicoat 28 Palenque Island, Ucsr IsLind, off S.E. pt.- 8 10 13 82 14 .00 Kullelt&Wood. 28 Parida Id., watering-place in Chimmo Bay 8 6 60 82 21 45 , 29 Liidrones Islands, South lele - 7 61 45 82 26 30 Kollutt. 30 Montuosi, S.E. end ... 7 27 3o 82 14 30 II 30 Burica Point, Burioa Island off it 8 1 82 66 30 It 30 Gulf of Dulco, Cape Matapulo . 8 17 83 23 30 M.'leLupeyrouae, 32 Punta Arenitas ... 8 32 83 21 15 1857. 32 Sal-si-puedes Point, 8.W. exlrume 8 25 15 83 40 30 ii 34 Point Llorena, oxtrerno 8 36 83 48 30 34 Cano Island, West point 8 42 45 83 87 20 It 35 Point ^l.ila ... 7 15 83 41 15 tl 36 (iiK.'pos Point ... 9 25 84 8 35 tt .'IG Mount Judas ... 9 ;U 20 84 31 30 19 36 Port llerradura, lake on beach - y 38 oO 84 39 30 Sir i;. Iklchcr. 36 lllft;?;., , :i - ^ Ii i\ xii TABLE OF OEOGRAPniCAL POSITIONS. Oiilf of Nicojrn, Blanco Inliind off capo Ciildera, hot Npriuga Pan lie Aziicur I'unta ArenaR, liglithoiiHe Capo Vt.'liis Uordii I'uint Port Culebra, river at head of port Capo Elena - - - balinas Itav, Salinas Island Ban Junn dci Sur, inner South point Cape DoBolada CoKiNTo or Ucalejo, Cardon Id. lighthouse Fonseca Gulf ; Cweguina Volcano Port La Union, Chicarene Point Port Jiquiliaco, Kast point River Lempa, East point Volcan dtj S. Miguel, 6,822 ft. - Port Libortad, Custom-houae - City of San Salvador • Port Acajutia, or Sunsonate, light on molu Isaico Volcano Port latapa or Iitapam Volcan de Agua Volcan dn fuego San Joac de Guatemala, Ubservation tpot Cbampurico WEST CdAST OF MEXICO. Soconusco Bar - . . Boca Harra, about - . . Ventosa Hay, Morro - . . Salina Cruz Bay, Morro Bay of Bamba, Punta de Chipoguu Morro of Ystapa, or Ayuca Port Guatiilco, Observation spot Port Sacrificios, West point Puerto Angel or Port Angolcs, East point Alcatras Uoc.ks . . . filaldonado Point, El Recodo Acapulco, Town of, Fort S. Dioiro Paps of Coyuca . . . Tequepa or Papanoa ... Pctallan, landy isthmus Port Sihuantuncjo, head of port Istapa Island, N.W. summit Mangrove Bluff ... Tojupan Point Marnata ... Manzauilla Bay, West end of villago Navidad Bay, North beach Porula Biiy, ObBtrvalion Covo, N. point Capo Comontes, extremity Point Mita, extremity La Corvotana liock . '''res Marias Ids., S. Juanito Id. N. pjint Picdra Blanc^i del Mar San Bias, Cmitom.houso Isabel iKland Boca Tecap»n, Palmita village - Rio Chametla, or del Rosario, \V. point Mazati.an, signal stfttion Piaatla Point l.at. Niirlh. » 32 4.5 9 54 2S 9 Ad iH 9 68 aO 10 19 10 32 10 36 55 10 63 16 11 2 60 U 16 30 11 68 20 12 27 56 12 68 13 17 6 13 9 20 13 12 15 13 26 13 29 13 50 13 34 13 47 54 32 50 33 13 55 19 14 17 44 13 14 14 20 15 25 16 12 16 11 16 9 49 16 1 20 15 62 15 44 58 15 40 41 15 39 9 16 58 16 18 40 16 ."JO 56 17 2 17 16 6 17 31 29 17 37 66 17 40 17 17 .14 6 18 22 18 27 19 3 13 19 13 !9 34 31 20 24 40 20 46 50 20 44 15 21 45 21 34 30 21 32 30 21 52 15 22 30 26 22 48 23 11 17 23 38 42 Wiht. 85 8 15 84 42 16 84 63 45 84 49 30 85 64 H5 47 .S5 38 85 51 86 43 40 85 63 30 86 40 40 87 12 16 87 34 30 87 47 5 88 27 40 88 48 30 88 17 20 89 19 20 89 1 30 89 60 4.^ 89 40 90 41 90 44 90 52 90 49 48 91 65 36 93 3 94 4."> 95 8 30 95 12 31 95 22 30 96 46 44 96 8 12 96 16 4 96 30 30 97 25 on 32 99 56 100 6 101 4 32 101 26 54 101 33 3 101 40 4 102 17 103 34 45 103 33 104 20 41 104 44 27 105 9 35 105 43 2 105 33 37 106 51 106 42 105 30 105 18 40 105 53 30 106 44 25 lOo 2 106 26 39 106 49 50 Authnritics. Sir E. Belcher. Comm. Philip. n II Chart. I* Lapelin. >i U.S.'Survey,1879 Chart. 'I'rastour. U.S.Survoy,1879, Chart. U. S. Survey. Sir E. Belulier. Chart. U.S.Survey,1879 O. H. Richards. Mainwating. G. 11. Riihards. U. S. Survey. BoeL-hey. U. S. Survey. Page 37 37 39 39 41 41 42 43 44 45 48 63 69 60 66 67 68 68 69 72 73 76 77 77 77 80 86 87 87 88 89 89 93 95 95 96 96 99 99 102 102 102 102 103 103 104 104 107 109 110 111 112 113 114 114 120 120 120 121 131 Culia Altai San II I'ointl Esterl cl Point I Lobosl Rio yJ Giiayi Cape 1 Tetflsi San Pe Tiburoil George I Rio Coll f TABLE OK OEOORAPIIIC; VL POSITIONS. XIII AUata, ObwrvHtion .pot 1 ">nt San Ig„«cio . *..tero de Agiabampo. Oba. Uill S P J^oint Hosa ]^bo8 Island, Monte Verde ' 2 ° ^-q"'. South entrance poin"t JetasdeCabra. orPHM I^WER CALIFORNIA. side J Lut. North. 24 37 45 25 26 , 25 36 26 16 18 26 40 27 20 16 27 36 30 27 55 63 27 50 27 66 30 27 69 28 46 66 31 64 3i 56 m 1 30 107 66 7 109 24 109 23 30 109 17 20 109 38 no 36 36 no 36 110 65 13 110 61 30 111 3 30 111 22 112 41 56 113 16 30 116 AuthoritiM ||.„^g II- S. Survey. U.S.S. Ji,4^. U.S. Survi voy. Townohond. V. S. Sur Voy. 132 133 135 136 135 136 136 1J6 137 138 141 141 141 143 145 i'oint Mansfles Loreto, (;athfldral . San Josef Island a .^' ^^*'^ P"'"' - EHpiritu Santo iia^nTLr'" ^''^' ^^ Pt- Coralbo Island, No h end ^"^"'^ o- Jose del Cabo ivr w ■ j , ' c.i.*.L„t&i,;'ti.l"''"°" Ai.MosUocks, South rock Boca de Soledad Boca do las Animas . S«n Juanico Point - i:.»avidson. 148 149 152 1.53 156 157 158 159 159 162 103 165 106 168 172 173 177 177 182 185 185 186 186 186 188 189 191 192 194 196 197 199 193 200 L'Ol 203 COAST OF CALIFORNIA. San Diego Bay, boundary obelisk on,t 1 oma, lighthouse . ban Luis Roy, auchorngc off . 'K^.??' •''8 "7 7 32 ■/ '' '' 14 lu'f 14 38 Itho^'unlfeM '"' nffi„„ ""*'^'"«'t« 210 33 If, "117 31 ortjoors. 211 f\ '-p .\ I »!<( /I ; - " ' ■ '■' ' . ' , 'it f l_ H XIV TABLE OF OEOGRAPniCAL POSITIONS. Ul. Norlli. liillH. Wwt. AuthurlliOT. H«(te San Juan Cn|iiiitrano, nnchorttKo off 3*3 'iU ib 11*7 44 'O The Survfy by 211 San Pedro Il«y, lii?htho. on Furtuin Point- ■ii 42 U 118 18 thu U. 8. ofliiurs 212 WilminKton, UufT at landing 33 43 -iU 118 16 3 under Lieut. W. 213 Santa Monica, hotel - 34 36 118 3r 40 A. Bartlott, 1840; 214 Point Iluoneino, liKhtbouiw} 34 U 119 13 Comm. J. Allien, 215 Buenavontiira Misxion 34 16 119 16 1853; and Assis- 210 Santt linrliara, lighthouse 34 ii 36 119 42 6 tant Uoo. David- 21G Point Contepcion, liKhthouso - 34 26 47 120 28 son, 1863 ; &c. 217 El Coxo, bluff 34 2U 6U 120 20 33 If 218 Coitus ijhoal, liiHhop Uock lA ft. San Clumonto Island, S.E point 32 26 46 119 5 *» 219 32 50 30 118 21 »• 220 Sta. Catalina Id., Kapor Uay, Alcatraz Id. Santa Barbara Island, summit • 33 27 118 24 20 II 221 33 3U 119 2 fl 222 San Nicolas Island, S.E. point • 33 13 119 26 >» 222 John liegg Itock, 40 ft. high • 33 22 30 119 40 30 » 223 Anacapa Island, Eitst ond 34 1 119 20 1. 223 St I. Cruz Id., Anacapa Bay, Oba. Point - 34 1 10 119 26 57 »• 224 Santa Kobji Island, W. point 34 120 10 «l 225 S. Miguel I.. Cuylor Hr., strm. in 8.V^pt. 34 2 16 120 16 It 220 San Luis Obispo, Whaler Island 36 9 28 120 45 • » 227 San Simeon, beach at head 36 38 24 121 11 II 229 Point Pinoa, lighthoum 36 37 6H 121 66 t» 231 MoMTERiT, Custom-house wharf 3S 30 17 121 62 27 II 232 Santa Cruz, light 86 66 66 122 1 33 tt 231 Pigeon Point, liuhthouse 37 U U 122 23 30 11 236 SAN FUANCISCO, Point Donifa lightho. 37 48 48 122 31 44 II 241 Fort Point, lighthouse Telegraph HiU, near Observatory 37 48 32 122 28 30 *l 242 37 47 5;i 122 24 15 It 24.5 Presidio .... 37 47 29 122 27 50 »t 244 Sir Francis Drake's Uiy, W. point 37 69 20 122 58 II 25.5 I'oint lioyes, lighthou o 37 59 36 123 1 21 »l 256 South Farallon lighthouse 37 41 49 123 4 It 2.)8 North Farallon 37 46 1 123 6 26 2.58 Uodfg^ Heast Tacfl Stej] Bud( Whii Lutni Semii Lopei San J f — '^' »'CAL POSITIONS. Port Ang^ KdrttS^JMi"'""'' ■ . Blunt or Smith jIi^,'"^ • Wa^4 *'"•—« W. point iacoma, wh«rf ,^'W.bov^,Sf-P;^ Wharf. I'ommi Island Vr?I^"^.*« ^^'n' 8««i«hmooSy Pai^H"' - 1^1. North, I.'irnf. '•« 39 ( 4fl 43 , , <6 63 44 *7 19 '«7 41 <« 23 16 4« 22 30 4H 8 48 10 69 *S 18 60 /m 3 /124 4 28 |124 6 64 '24 14 /124 37 124 44 40 124 Se 23 133 W 30 123 6 7 122 SI 30 '^uthorliio,. U.S.Swvey. g^PtlKolIptt. "• o. hurrey. *-"' JU.U, ij. {j'Pg ^^o Mrrisn columbu Garry Point "Snihouse ^'.mTd'&te ^"li^"0- i;rracks <8 8 40 48 9 22 47 54 40 «7 36 46 47 36 47 16 30 47 I« 45 <7 3 48 13 48 46 49 48 26 35 48 27 46 122 46 123 41 132 31 6 122 23 30 122 29 16 122 28 16 Ip 34 16 ,132 66 1^2 47 122 42 12 122 46 30 132 48 60 123 3 fertS,*^- Captrtin O. H Richards. 48 33 30 48 19 36 48 17 45 48 25 49 48 26 22 48 47 30 48 64 41 49 13 46 49 15 22 49 20 60 49 27 31 49 22 7 49 36 31 49 47 20 49 62 45 49 69 65 50 11 21 50 6 31 50 17 15 50 30 50 29 26 '124 27 37 123 42 40 123 32 15 /.?! 2« 46 123 23 2 126 12 50 126 16 64 124 50 7 126 06 17 126 16 40 126 26 27 126 32 32 126 37 32 , Gemro. Wood. , "• *^ender, R.s. j ^- H- Richards. 126 67 5 126 69 66 127 9 30 127 37 HB 127 67 20 127 52 127 62 16 128 3 39 448 49 ( 46 C 49 7 4 43 13 1 49 19 40 49 Ifi 18 /123 6 26 123 16 123 12 1 I '22 54 26 123 16 '23 12 XVI TAHLE OF (iEOCiHAlMIICAL TOSITIOXS. Utt. Ninth. ,»'. Nanaimci Ilurli., Knirauca IsUnd liKhtlio. Dr. I'.anaon'i hnuno Nan(H>go llurlHiiir, Kntrnnco Kock Daytx'H Sound, llunry Hay, Ueak Point - Cap" Miidne . . . Ildwu KuiiikI, I'lump'T Covo ({uathiiiiky Cove, Valiies Island, S, point- Knox Hay, 'J'huriiw lil , atrcHiu itt hwid - I'ort Nuvillr, Uc.bbiir'8 Nob Port IlHrvfy, Tidv-jwle Islet Alitrt Hay, I'drmoniiit Id., Yi'llr>w Itliiff - Heaver llnrboiir, Fort liiipcrt, iSboll Uli't - I'ort Aloxander, OoIcUir Cii., inlet in contri' IIo|io Inland, Hull Harbour, N. p«ml uf Indian Island . . . Triitni^lo Island, 8cott Islands, W. point • Cape Sc»tt, summit of capu Cape Caution Virfjin Uotk-, largest - Poiirl Uocks, lartfiwt . . . Hniith Sounil, K>f;g Inlot oft vntraucs Takush Harbour . . . Cnlvt^rt Island, 8nuth point FitzIIuKh Sound, SchooutT It«truat, Ctutru Ixliind . . . Nuinu Harbour Fitzhiiffh 8ound, Pt. Walkir - Hurkt- Channel, luMtoration Covu Hel' kula ancliora^ii FiNhiir Ciinal, I'ort •Jnhn, Murk Ilock Milbank Sound. Capu Swuin Port Hlakoney Finlayson Cb innol, Cartor Hay - Mll^H^;l Canal, Poison Cove Oardnor Caniil, Point StauLforth Co^ldan Anibongu - Gronville Channel, Klownufrgit Inlet, Morning Uecf ■ . . Skftcna Hivir, Point Ijambrr! - Canal du Princip«, Port StophonH. Hluff Pt. Chatham Bound, Mutlah-Cutlah Hay Port Simpson, 0\m. spot Stephens Island, (jlawdzeet. Harris Id. - Point Muckt'lynt), tintr. of Works (^nnal - Portland Jnlot, Kincolith Mii'.-.ion, NasiH. (•bsorvatoiy Inlet, Salmon Cove Portland Ciinal, Hoar liiver, at head UUBBN ChAKIX>TTK ISLANnS. Cape St. James, South extreme! Ilouhton Stewart Channel, Forsyth Pt. • Cumahewa Inlet, Kinu'ui Island Skidegale Channel, Bar rock at E. entr.- Cnpo Hall Uiise Point ... Virago Sound, Cape KdeiiHitw. Langara or North Island, North point - IlippH Island, West point Skiffogate Channel, Point Huck Port Kuper, Sansum Id., in Mitchill Har. Cape Henry ... Tasoo Harbour, entrance Anthony Island, S«uth point - 12 M 10 15 lA 43 ;ir. 2u 59 If) 24 3U 2 42 24 16 31 U 3;* fi8 35 2 42 ;i« 5U 4V .id 5» 47 .10 51 53 60 46 41 51 8 51 17 51 22 30 51 15 « 61 It) 51 51 25 51 28 .il 51 10 44 51 66 30 40 22 42 7 9 52 18 47 ■')2 49 41 52 66 53 35 30 63 22 44 52 52 52 52 20 53 39 24 5J 6 53 20 .54 20 10 64 33 61 5t 12 69 &t 39 51 :>9 26 .55 18 34 .)5 66 3 51 64 52 9 53 1 30 53 22 30 5,i 43 54 11 54 4 30 54 16 e 53 33 53 12 52 f)6 31 52 55 30 •V2 41 62 6 30 l.»n« WrA. 123 48 45 123 6U 3(> 124 8 (! 61 12 2U 14 39 4 1(1 124 126 123 125 126 12(! 12U 12« 67 127 26 127 39 127 66 3 129 6 32 128 30 46 127 48 128 12 45 128 I 30 127 51 127 38 43 127 66 127 44 38 127 52 23 127 65 127 40 30 12C 48 4 127 52 30 128 33 30 128 22 42 128 24 34 128 1 128 47 129 17 16 129 44 61 130 6 2U 129 44 130 27 30 130 26 36 130 46 10 130 26 .30 129 67 36 129 62 30 130 3 27 131 131 131 33 131 «1 131 50 131 36 30 132 21 30 132 66 30 132 59 30 132 34 132 9 132 22 132 7 131 12 40 30 Aulhoritlo. (>. II. Uivhardi. I). Pender, R.N 1807 — 1870. Ci.M.Dawsoii,&( I>. IVnder, IJ.N. Ci.M. Dawson, iie G. Wooro, Il.N. Chart, &c. I'uir* 469 470 474 477 480 483 496 4118 499 6U0 604 606 608 609 513 463 514 515 .il6 51.) 517 618 619 620 620 521 521 522 627 629 531 532 633 536 636 639 646 651 664 5,58 556 .563 5(>4 667 671 572 678 579 581 582 584 685 686 586 587 588 588 688 '!^!;^:^^'-'"'>'^'-mcAi.vn,,rm-s. ITU Sunt,. COAST OF ALASKA. Cwpo Fox . UijJim Un«l. j-„i„t svkoi 9«P«d"C'hiicon . Von },'""'"=/''"". I'<'i"t"«aker ■ '-"Pu I'olo . C«po Addii.frton c2r>m":^i,,:;te'VjI'J-.HoJth point : i riiuu l<'r...i.>..;..i. i... , -. U.M. ■I'lili'irltioi Pw ■/ •?! Ifl .to ll •■'I <7 ( "•"' 2!) (J 55 (■)« 5 5 .IS l.j ''■O 2U W 60 1 1. 'id 1131 r, I I'M ,VJ (l.ll 17 131 1.1 i;n 44 Viiiicouver, &o. I.JI |.j •?' 5.5 40 l|;i] 2(> , ■■<1 54 '■•i2 12 I'U 5.S 5" 40 .•((» Ii;j2 [1-J2 22 "-' :'i ;to 20 ».iiii:uuvcr, iiii ■'>l I.S 5(i i(j niici j.s olephens J'i.ss.,ir^ J>„r( ii , * I'omt Au^rustrt f^'luctK.n I'oint - ■ •'» 12 o I 1 oiut A,lo]ph„8 . ■ -|;VJ 2 'NtkH .Sound, Mitkrt . *^ ""'"« l.iorka JslHiui, hntrmr.. r i '. J ")-« Fairweather . JI';»ntFai,,vt.;,thor . •1 omt liiou . 1^2 ^H 1 1 •■(•'! 3.i laa 40 JJ-ty 51 134 3 1 133 4.5 '33 iH 1)33 ;i,S '33 27 30 132 37 1 1 33 30 '■•M ;) '31 l.i '31 20 133 1131 131 2 '33 2.5 .'« .'iO 1.33 24 '33 ^7 i;i.i '31 M () 134 00 134 32 '34 30 30 [134 ,-)2 l.il Oi) 4 '3.5 12 135 10 I.J(; U I ' 3ii 2,S 130 Jl ■^'ortA J'aci/ie. ■>< ■>7 57 2 .-,2 '"' f>2 1;5 ■'•'< ly ••">N 13 ■>'^ 50 30 5« .54 30 5!' 33 •''!' 32 30 •'!' 51 ■>'J 43 ■>'J 54 i(i H i. II. (.5 5 4.5 > 40 ;jo 13(5 I!) .J 5 13.5 2.S 1136 11 13(i 27 137 Jfu.ssi.in Chart. ^- «. Chart. Vancouver, &c. I 50 '37 31 i3'J 17 '3» 13 '3!» 32 "0 13 141 M •^y K. Bplrhor. > '"icouvur, iic ^'f 'ii. livlchvr. B|fe1: 1 . >;■■' ,M Hi XVIII TAni.F. OF ni:ofju.\riiTrAT, rosmoNs. MiMiiil St. Klin*, 19,.')00 fmit l'iiiii|>l>iii,t liiK'k ("itjMi HiK lclin(? Kiiyc Ulnnil, Citpe H'tmimil I'liiiif^ Willmm NuiiikI, C»p<' Wit-lic'il ()a|><' llirichinbriicik I'ort Klrhcs, riiiiipH I'oiiit I'tiil (iriivinit, S.k. puiiit SiniK Coriirr I lay • I'liiMt ViiUli'8, I'orl Kicxiiiiintlu I'oillt CllIlDHII Moiitii^ii Inliiml, Sniilh |i»int • Port ('hiiliiitTH, Tuiiil (iiliiioiir Cii|io I'liiji t - (^liiNwi'll Isl.'tncl'i, South ^'loiip • I'io IhIhihIh, South t'XtrciiU' I'oiiit (loni Cook Iiil't, CiijM) Kli/.ihflh • I'lirt C'liathain, WHt»irinK-|ilin'H I'oint 'Icilii Tfchouffutsfhoiik I'liy, Aiirliipr roint < IlldlDIIKHIIIlt IbI.iIIiI, Hllllllllil • ri\|M> I)uN>,'l:iM C'uiil^iai'k Inhtiiil, K. point AVcHi Koii'laiul North Foreliinil KoDiAK IsLANii, (ireville or Ti)l«toy Ciipe 81. I'liul Iliul).,('hiiBiivkii Covo, W. pt. Ig.itskoy li.ty, C'liiio Tuiikoy - Ciipe Trinity Alri'tian Islands and DgiiRiNn Ska. runineiilii of AliuHkii, Toualo Day Capo I'ruvidotice - Evdokoi'tr Inlaiiils, S. iuland ht. Stcphi'ii Inland Uukainok, or THchirikoff Id., N.E. pt Kchumii){f.n IJh., Ouii^h, N.U. point Handpoint, I'opofl'tStrait • 8annak or Halibut Island, centre Ounimnk Islnnd, CluchRldiiiHkoi volcano Ciipo Mordvinoff Krenitzin IsliindH, Oiigamok iNliind Tij^alga Island, centre Akouu Island, North point Ounalnshka Isliin I, .S.\v. point - Ulakhtii Uiiy, i xtiomity of spit lUuIuk, (')iiirc'h Oumnnk IslHud. Cape Sigak Joann ISo^toslofl' Island Yoiinaska Island, Noith point • Amoughtu Island, Cintro Sfgouam Island, East point Anilla Island, Kiist Capo Atkha Island, Korovinskaia IViy, S cnpo Sitkhin Island, contro Adiikh Island, Noith end Uay of Islands Kannga Island, N.E. point Tanaga Island, N.W. peak Goreliiy or Jiurnt Iwlitiiil, summit Amatignak Island, centre Semisopochnoi, or Sovrm Moimfains Id. Amichitka I.sland, N.W. point - Kiriluvskaia Jiay • Ijit. Norlli. m tio A!» til) «0 (to lid IK) 111) ft' •iO 44 A'.) 4(i liO 1(1 iV) fi.i r>l) ,'U .V.) 11) .'i;» 3!) ft'.) 22 fiH fi2 (i() 21 30 52 12 50 52 4 30 52 3 51 49 Ifi 51 ,i3 51 56 51 46 51 17 51 59 51 3S 51 27 1 Ill 112 113 144 1)5 11(1 I Hi I 15 I4li I Hi 147 147 l»7 14H 149 149 At 150 151 151 151 151 153 153 151 151 160 152 152 152 154 156 30 166 27 1.76 22 165 30 155 30 100 30 KiO 31 102 50 1H3 69 104 29 164 57 1G5 6 165 40 lfi7 47 UiU 28 34 lOii 31 36 108 42 167 33 170 35 171 14 172 IH 172 58 174 34 17t) 10 170 40 176 51 58 176 69 178 17 178 60 179 10 Long. E. 179 45 67 178 3.) 178 60 If. R. Niirv.'y. Hpanish Cliarl. '•..Sir E. i:.lolii-r. Vanciiiiv«r, &c, Mr K lloli^hor, fn Vanciiiivtr, \c. Chart. II. S. Sjirvey. Lisiansky, &c. Vancouver, Ac. Wassilieff, &c. If (•olownin, Krui'cnstern, 4c. Vancouver, tec. Chart. W. 11. Pall. Sarytsthoff. Kotzebuo, &c. Liitko. IJ. S. Survey. vy. H. D.n. Kotzotiue. ISarytschoff, &c. Kotzobiie, &c. Tehenkoff. Liitke. Inghostrom, &c. Stanikowitch. Inghi«trom, &c. W. H. Dall. Ingho.strom, &c. Harytsehoflf, &c. Inghostrom, &c. 030 039 6 to fill 643 (113 644 646 646 046 646 647 U4H 640 A4U 649 649 649 649 O.'iO 651 652 662 663 663 664 656 660 66!) 660 660 665 666 666 665 66S 667 66S 670 670 671 671 671 672 673 073 676 675 676 670 677 677 679 683 680 080 681 681 681 681 681 083 662 AllltrlJ Kiyri I Ki'kii KIhIJ llolll.lJ K<'iiiitsi| Ag.tlt(, Allou ll IB*,. TA'If.R (iK ui:()( "VPIIICAr. POSITIOXS. •In I«- OIJ 17:;!;; ::i'"v'-trom.&.. 1 7.) JO ' 7J 7 I I,', i" ■■'■' H 8 ■>> 2) ■■'■' M •'xi 7 '■>(' 2;i J,-, ■>7 ;iO 4 •''7 l,t ■is 17 -| fi« 12 fi •W 1!!) ■| W 35 oH 42 •W 3 9 •'>!> 5.5 •■>!) ,18 (iO 27 'iO 'i(» .'(5 <>l 51 J2 'i2 40 'i;t 35 '•'■i 2H :U) 'i3 53 33 IM I'J '> Ki 40 111 ")« ly U5 2'1 10 ''■'> o(i .-JO 5 3,S 40 71 23 31 'i3 52 'i3 15 liO IH t!0 30 liO ;j4 •if' 39 16 '7 8 fionj^. |l(,2 .,0 I(i3 1 Mil I'iO II i(;o 2 I 'is |,s 157 5,S ;57 47 1 57 25 ir>7 .( I5N 46 I I.'iN IH ( l()0 50 ( Ifi2 5 I 1«I 53 (J 102 5 I(i3 25 lt,iiiik.)wii(li. Von \Vr,,,i;^„|. I II ,9";"""'" '"'iik,j. *,<'"k, \c. J '••tiilinu. Chart. ^y■alll^|Ji,.((; I iiloljiii;, A.C. C'pt.K.K.SMiill,, I l^ijolc. T'. .S. S„rv,.y. I ''aK:oHkiii. Cook, 177,s. TolM.nkoir. 'ook. l!uLTl|..y. >i C,M,k. |J.«..S„r.vy. T . " ;^ U.s Siirvoy. IJS 55 IG 07 00 3 05 29 40 05 37 .30 05 30 30 179 57 E. 171 55 IfJO 44 170 .50 170 43 172 Von U'r,,ngi.i. llfcclicy. I'Utku. \%M' V Ml If f • '■ h U' I XX TABLE OF GEOGRAPHICAL POSITIONS. Cape Khaluotkin Ciipo Nygtchyfi^n Cape Neogtchan Arakamtchetchon I»lan(J, Ciipo Kjghjnin- Capo Mortons Ittygran Idland, Cnpo Postols - Capo Tchaplin Capo Teliotikotakoi I'ort Proviclcnco, Plovor Day Capo Spanbery Cape Attcheun Transfiguriition Bay - Cape Uehring Gulf of St. Croix, Capo J[oetchkcn Mount Linliiigai, 1,402 ft. Anadyr Bay, Alinmka Island Capo St. Thaiidoua . . . Archangel Gabriol Bay, N. point of ontr. - Capo Navarin, 2,512 foot Capo Olutorskoi . . . Capo Qovenskoi Cape Ilpinskoi . . . Vorkhotoursky, or Little Karaghinsky Id. CoMMANDEU ISLANDS, Bohiiug Islcud, Capo Khil'-off Capo Youchin . . . West extremity - - - Meiiny or Coppor Island, sottlcmont S.K. extremity . . . N.W. oxtreuiity - . - KAMCHATKA, ETC. Karaghinsky IsLind, Cape ClolonichtchefT Capo Kracheniiinikoff Capo Ilpinskoi Capo Kouzinichtcheff - Kiinighinskaiu Bay, mouth of iln, Karnga South point Cape Uukinskoi Capo Ozornoi Bivor Stolbo'. skaia Capo Stolbovoi Cape Kamchatskoi Klutchevskoi Volcano, 1.5, 7CG foot Capo Kronotskoi Kronotskoi Volcano, 10,010 foot Cape Shipunskoi Villeuchiiisky Peak, 7,372 feet - Avatcha or Awatska Volcano, 11, .'500 ft. AvATcHA Bay, church of IVtropauluVbki Cape Gavareah Cape Lopatka KuHiLs Islands. Alaid Island tiiimshu Ifiland, centro Poromushir Island, high mountain N.E. point Bhirinky Island Munkourusby I>laud, contro Lat. Korth. 65 15 05 5 64 55 30 04 40 04 33 15 04 37 04 24 30 64 16 64 21 55 04 42 30 04 48 04 50 05 30 65 28 40 65 30 30 64 37 02 42 02 28 02 16 59 .58 59 50 69 48 30 59 37 30 54 50 55 21 55 15 54 47 54 39 54 54 59 13 30 58 28 69 48 30 59 5 59 8 58 65 57 58 57 35 60 40 30 50 40 30 50 10 Long. W. 172 171 65 172 20 172 1 172 24 172 29 172 14 173 10 173 23 54 174 30 176 28 175 25 175 48 178 40 178 5 Long. E. 177 40 179 38 179 22 179 4 170 21 166 18 104 57 165 43 30 100 40 1G5 58 105 48 30 168 108 9 u 107 32 30 66 8 64 54 64 45 53 62 42 53 21 53 1 52 18 50 52 30 104 40 163 32 104 57 103 19 162 59 103 2 102 47 163 14 162 39 103 21 103 25 100 45 102 33 100 37 160 5 168 22 158 47 158 39 15 158 43 156 45 50 54 50 46 50 15 50 48 50 \r, 49 51 (I 155 32 156 26 Authorities. Liitke. Russian Survey. Liitke. Charts. Liitke. Chart. Golownin, &c- Liitke. 155 24 15 156 7 154 .58 154 32 Chart. Bcochcy, &c. Chart. Ivruscnstorn. Page 711 711 711 713 713 713 714 714 716 717 717 717 717 718 718 719 719 720 720 720 720 720 721 721 722 722 723 723 723 m 726 726 726 726 726 726 726 727 727 727 727 728 728 728 731 731 734 735 736 737 737 737 737 737 738 Ul Sil Ur Itu TABLE OF GEOGRAPHICAL POSITIONS. XXI Avo3 Rock - Onnokutiin Island, Cape Krenitzin Khaiimkotan Island, contro puak iShiashkotan Island, centre Chirinkotan Island Musir Islands, or Thu Snares - Kaikoke Island, peak - Mataua Island, Surytscheff Peak liashau Island Ushishir Island, South point Ketoy Island, South extremity - Siinusir Island, Provost Peak - The Four Urothors, South Torpoy Island Proiighton Island Unip, Cape Castricum, North point Capo Van dor Lind, South point Iturup Island, N.E. point Capo Uikord, South point Skotan or Spiinborg Isliind, centre ICunasiri Island, St. Anthony's peak Establishment in Traitor's Bay Sea of Okhotsk. Capo Lopatka Bolcherotsk Tigol l{iver, entrance - Capo Utkolokski Capo Bligaii I'oiistaresk . - - . Kaminoi, at the month of Penjina River • Cihijt'ga, or Fort Jiejiginsk Ciipo I'iiighin Okhotsk . . . . I'ort Aian, Capo Vneshni Jonas Island, 1,200 fett Fort Oudskoi . . . Great Shanfcir Island, North point ProkoJieir Island . . . Koassijft' Island . . . Capo Uousjiindsha . . . River Tiigiir, mouth - . . Capo Liitke Saohalin Island, etc. Ctpo Elizabeth Cipo Mary Kiirth Bay, Tartar colony Niidiejeda Bay, (.^ipe Ilurcer C^ape Uolovatohell' C'iipe Lowenstirn Cape Klokatclioff f'iipe AVurst t^hoal Point Downs Point Capo Dolisle Cape Ratmanofif Cape Riranik Mount Tiara Capo Bellingshausen - Cape Patience Robbwi Island, N.E. point Uivcr Neva, moiith Cape Notetu or Soimunolf • 40 49 49 19 49 8 48 62 49 1 48 36 48 17 48 47 51 47 35 47 19 47 6 46 29 46 42 46 18 45 37 45 36 44 26 43 60 44 22 43 44 50 62 30 52 54 58 1 57 50 58 40 61 62 62 10 59 10 69 20 56 25 28 56 23 61 29 55 11 55 5 54 43 54 40 53 40 53 67 30 54 24 30 64 17 30 15 45 10 15 54 54 53 25 54 3 53 46 53 52 34 51 53 51 30 .50 48 60 12 30 50 3 19 35 18 62 48 36 49 14 40 48 53 20 1/54 19 154 44 154 39 151 8 153 30 153 44 153 15 153 11 152 48 152 37 152 22 151 5? 50 150 3. 30 150 28 30 160 28 149 34 148 49 146 68 146 49 146 16 145 33 156 45 166 47 30 158 18 30 167 18 151 36 162 30 162 30 100 15 156 13 143 14 138 21 143 16 134 58 137 40 138 22 138 12 126 52 136 46 140 22 142 142 142 142 141 143 143 143 143 143 143 143 144 143 144 144 ;44 143 143 47 17 45 37 27 34 55 15 7 30 27 20 43 55 fi 35 25 45 46 15 33 10 2 KruBenstern. ;bart. Qolownin. Chart. Chart. King, &c. Charts. Lcssepa. Chart. Krutontorn. Kosmin, Chart. Krusenstern. Chart. ti Kruaenstcrn. 738 738 738 738 738 738 738 738 738 739 739 739 739 739 740 740 740 741 742 742 742 743 743 744 744 744 744 744 746 746 745 746 747 748 747 748 748 748 748 748 750 750 750 750 751 751 751 751 751 751 751 761 761 761 761 752 752 762 762 V ! I .t: 1 ' ■]*' ' I'. ; 1 -■■^m Wi m XXll TABLE OF GEOGRAPniCAL POSinONS. ; i\ IjU. North. I-oiiK. Kust. Authorities. Page Ciipe Dalryir.rle ... 48 21 "O 142 44 *0 Kruscnsturn. 752 Cupe Miiloif'sky 47 57 45 142 34 It 752 Uurnizot Poiik, or Mount Spanborg 47 33 142 20 If 752 Cape Scniiiviiio ... 47 16 30 142 59 30 II 752 Capo Tonin ... 46 60 143 27 30 ti 753 Cape LowBiiom 40 23 10 143 38 ft 753 Cape Siretoko or Aniwa 46 2 20 143 25 If 753 Capo Notaro or Ci illun, lii;hthoii80 45 54 142 2 Chart. 753 La Dangere>380 Uotk, or Kuinoii Opasnosti- 45 48 15 142 10 Ward, 1855. 754 Karsiikovsk . . . 46 38 47 I .2 47 43 Kussiau Chart. 754 Tolwotchi Bay, KJykoflf Point - 40 29 3 143 18 18 IF 754 Kiciri, Pic de Langlo - 45 11 141 12 15 KruNcnstern. 755 Uofunsiri, Capo Uiuber 45 29 140 55 Chart. 765 Cape Nossyab ... 45 27 30 141 3j n 760 Gulp of Tautary, etc. Maucka Cove 47 3 142 5 ff 768 KosQunai .... 47 58 45 142 11 30 (V 759 Sortunai .... 49 30 142 7 t) 759 Dui, lighthoueo 50 50 142 6 35 tj 760 Cape Pogobi ... 52 12 30 141 38 tt 761 Cape Disjippoiutmont - 45 48 137 51 M 761 Capo Saffron ... 47 19 139 5 jt 761 Fish Eiver ... 47 59 139 31 If 761 Low Cape ... Beachy Head, or St. Nicholas Point 48 28 140 12 761 48 58 140 24 *f 761 Bniracouta Iliirbour, Tullo I aland 49 1 60 140 19 II 761 Ciistries Bay, Quoin Point, lighthouau 51 26 140 54 tl 763 Aloxandrovski ... 51 28 2 140 48 4C< Uussiun Chart,&c. 763 N ikolaevsk .... 53 8 140 45 II 760 Expedition Bay, Miisoir Rock - 42 37 50 130 48 45 708 Amur Bay, or Guerin Gulf, Postchanni Pt. 43 11 131 48 1) 769 Skryplcff Island, lighthouse 43 1 45 131 57 45 If 771 Vladivostok, Ol)servation spot - 43 6 61 131 52 44 II 771 Askold Island, lighthouae 42 43 35 132 21 10 II 772 Hornet Bay, Fox Island 42 45 132 56 773 Islet PoLnt, or Capo Zamok 42 48 133 42 1* 773 Siau-Wuhu Bay, Observation spot at head 42 54 14 133 50 32 Ward, 1859. 773 Olga Bay, or Port Jlichaol 8eyniuur, Biy- dono Island ... 43 41 15 135 13 19 774 St. Vlndimir Bay, Low Point - 43 53 40 135 27 21 ;; 1 775 Shelter Bay 44 28 135 69 Tro'ison, 1850. 776 Sybille Bay, South point 44 13 45 .'36 22 30 If 776 Pique Bay .... 44 46 15 136 27 15 fi 776 Bullock Bay - - - 45 5 130 44 776 LukS Point ... 45 24 137 16 Chai't. 776 JAPANESE ARCHIPELAGO. KlVSIU AND SiKOK. Satano mitiaki, Cape ChichakofT, lighthouse ;)o .kS 30 130 40 Cliarts. 784 Kagosima, N. side of river eniruiico ;u 31 a 130 30 11 ,, 785 Oo sima, lighthouso - ^ . 31 31 131 25 ,1 780 Nonii Harbour ... 33 23 133 20 787 Wurato or Kotsi Inlet, lightho. on S. point 33 30 133 30 i» 787 Seto Uchi, ou Inland Sea. Kosiine no oosimn, N.E. point • 33 55 130 20 30 ,, 789 Simoiioseki, Rukuruu Island, lighthouso - 33 5S 53 130 52 31 ,1 (90 Muzu aaki 33 58 15 130 50 50 If 793 SImol HimeT TsurJ Ozun Tomol Nabal Awadl Hiogol Oosakf Isumi I Hinoi TanabJ TABLE OP OEOORAPHICAL POSmoxs. xxm Ozum,nohana,orCapeIyo . Nabae sjma. lighlhous'e Tanabe Bay, Cape Tanab6 .' 8.E. Coast op Nipok. ^Jo sima, Uarbour of Ki; P.-o- Lighthouse ' ^"a>'8ma Rock |u8i.yama Mountain - ' Tag Ba"?'^''"'^- «"'--: Mia «aki: OulpopYedo. fe"oS°'r&S"'^^^*'^°-« Simoda Harbow Op. ^''I' 'ghthouse Joka«i,,,g-. Centre Island Nosimasaki, lighthouse Yokoska Harbiur^)"!""'" " Yokohama Vi?.f,^»i7-^' ^''*'"'' ^O'nt Haneda^^inrSoLr! Volcanic l8«T8.S.E. OP Japax. Lat. North. S3 67 43 33 44 33 63 35 34 8 30 34 22 30 34 23 6 34 37 34 41 18 34 39 45 34 16 60 33 62 40 33 40 33 2f 20 33 29 8 33 28 15 33 33 45 34 21 65 34 30 40 34 35 46 35 21 35 51 34 48 12 135 45 40 135 48 13 135 52 10 135 55 30 136 54 44 136 54 50 138 13 28 138 44 30 138 31 30 138 46 22 34 36 2 34 34 25 34 40 35 8 8 34 53 20 35 8 27 35 16 18 35 17 20 35 26 23 35 31 56 138 51 12 138 56 57 138 66 40 139 37 7 139 53 67 139 41 8 139 45 12 139 38 50 139 39 13 139 48 3 Oo sima or Vries Island S P r. ■ . ^i;:^"«™'». highest S'^-^-P"'"' ^•Ii iki sima, highest part iieuncia Jiocks, southern iiroughton Hock, cntro I'litsr^K, Island, bavHttJP Knyonnniso Kocka ." hnuth Island PoKHfidin Isltind Lot8Wifo,orKicadeOro I East Coast op Nipon, ktc oKr2;g:gr^tiightho..so 5i-pi«;jk[,Nrth'2e ■ Capo Ycsiin 34 40 34 12 15 34 6 33 62 t 33 56 33 39 33 4 24 32 28 30 31 55 16 31 27 8 30 28 26 20 40 28 139 25 45 139 9 15 139 31 30 139 35 138 48 15 139 17 45 139 50 21 13!) 43 45 139 54 18 140 2 140 14 12 HO 10 45 Huntington, 35 43 38 10 30 27 ■11 20 41 9 U 17 11 33 40 61 il 48 30 140 61 32 Charf f7 141 36 ' "'• 7 141 59 10 141 2i) .75 ,^ 110 15 30 140 21 « 110 55 1'' 110 45 15 30 Mil 11 792 795 796 797 797 800 804 807 806 809 813 813 •1 -.r ■'> ^-4 XXIV TABLE OF GEOGRAPHICAL POSITIONa. t \ Taugar Strait, Hakodate Ilarbour, Kamida Creek, entrance - Consular garden • Cape Sirakonu Island of Ykzo. Volcano Bay, Endermo Hr., Sinmororan Cape Yerimo Akishi liay, entrance to lagoon - Capo Noyshaf, lighthouso Nemoro, lighthouse on '^onten siraa Cape Sirotoko or Spanberg Cape Soya, lighthouse Matsumai, river entrance Okusiri Island, North point Sutt Bay, Otatsuts Cape Novosilzov Iskarri Bay, Capo Skurlutzs, lighthouse Cape Tomomai Taruri Island, North end Cape Nossyab West Coast of Nipon. Bittern Rocks, S.W. rock Tabu sima, Observiiiory Hock, off E. extr. Awa sima, N.E, exiremo bddo Island, Ya or Wa saki Ogi Bay - - - Niegata, lighthouse - Toyama Bay, Fushiki, lighthouso N.inao, North Ilarbour, Niisuki-bana Rokko saki, lighthouse Nana sima or Astrolabe Rock - Yutsi sima - . • . Mikuni Koads Tsuruga Baj', lighthouse at entrHnce Miyadsu, East side of river entrance Oki Islands, Saigo Harbour Mino eima, centre Taka yama, or Cape Louisa Ai sima, or llichards Island Aburatani Harbour, Kudzu ura Teu-no sima, lighthouse Kiusiu. Kotsu sima, centre Oro no sima, or Obree Island - Kuri no kami, or Swain Reef • Yebosi sima or Cono Islet, lighthoupj Hakosaki Bay, Fakuoka, lighthouse Iki sima. Go no ura, Ham bima Yobuko Harbour, Taka siraa, lighthouse Observation spot Eirado sima, Port Firando, Hirago sima Tas'ke lighthouse - Yenoi sima, S.E. point • Fuku she Rock, beacon Ooto Islands, Uku sima, East point Hardy Harbour, I^Iiu sima, N. point Fukai, camber Om saki, lighthouse Lat. North. 47 8 46 24 30 42 19 54 41 56 43 2 22 43 26 47 43 20 30 44 20 46 31 41 26 30 42 15 30 42 47 30 43 20 43 14 44 20 44 2S 46 27 30 40 31 39 11 53 38 29 36 38 19 55 37 49 15 37 56 26 36 47 47 37 11 65 37 30 37 35 37 50 30 36 12 35 47 30 35 32 9 36 11 58 34 46 30 34 38 30 34 30 30 34 24 36 34 21 30 34 16 33 62 33 48 33 41 33 35 33 43 33 33 33 32 33 23 33 23 33 33 4 33 16 32 48 32 41 32 36 30 45 30 38 80 5 31 20 45 25 30 40 45 Kiut. Authorltlea. 140 43 44 140 42 37 140 12 140 69 33 143 16 144 51 60 145 52 145 32 146 24 141 64 30 140 9 30 139 34 140 21 140 22 140 64 141 40 141 17 141 36 139 137 139 31 139 34 17 139 16 7 138 30 30 138 26 25 3 66 3 42 126 55 58 137 19 136 64 136 55 136 8 135 68 135 12 41 133 19 20 131 7 131 36 131 17 130 68 42 130 50 130 130 130 129 130 129 129 129 123 129 129 129 129 128 128 128 6 30 1 30 16 45 58 60 23 45 38 40 64 62 66 32 5 33 33 21 40 26 30 9 30 65 62 50 60 36 6 Chart. Richards, 1855. Ward, 1859. Chart Bullock, Chart. Gouldsborough. Chart. Kimotsuki. Chart. Pago 868 8o8 861 864 865 866 866 867 867 766 861 869 869 870 870 871 871 871 872 872 872 873 873 873 875 876 876 877 877 877 878 878 879 879 870 880 880 880 881 881 882 882 883 883 884 884 887 888 889 890 891 894 896 89S H!(* :^!^^^^»OCK^IICAL PosmoNS. Slina^e Point ' ^'^Mhouae Kaba fc.ma, South point MoSr'^"---a.Oo„«kasa) THE CARO PELA( Kusaie, Ualan, Coquillo I Port Lele, 1 Jliiekaw Reef Pingelap or Mi Tugulu or MukilorDuper South poin Ponapi or Seni; Kiti Harb., Metalanien li Ant or Anden island I'akin Group, West point Kgiitik or Val East extrem ftukuuror Mont Efist point Matador Island Gnvr.v.ieh or Co ''laluk or Bordel l^unkiii Ki.ef (?) Jjosap I4iind " L'rviUe Islaud WKT -^^^^^i;:::!!!!^ J<'ib>vat iyi,,^j islands, Airek - ^"'Wftok or iL ""'^ Discoverer. Kotzebiio, 1817 '^oUbLuo, 1817 •^f't'Hhal], 1788 WaJlig, I7C7P Kotzobue, 1817 Shfinii, 1835 ,»rown, isoy bonnet (P) ^°°d. 1792 •"ennet (p) ■'Jennet iJond, 1792 ^'••y. IS24 DutJer, 1794 r.,u. •><)itii. 9 48 10 G IC 17 30 10 12 30 '1 2 'I U 30 1^ U Autheritios. XXV ii /''ilfc'O 1(>9 21 KJIJ 42 170 5j 170 4 Ui!) (7 '(-■■'J .-57 170 lu , f t'hurt. '' '« 107 43 /I H 3J 11 40 II 6 10 11 8 48 , 8 57 ( 8 41 t 8 19 7 69 I 12 30 7 43 5 oS 29 5 42 5 35 IOC 59 160 24 2.5 166 3.5 166 6 106 8 100 27 107 46 30 10/ 28 108 11 108 53 ,) 169 4 30 /vtwbuo. t hat. I'rovidtnce, igii "^^^° 1824 '''■«i-, 1824 -1 20 / IfjQ r „ / ^* 30 160 52 on ^^ M59 53 ' ""'^3 30 Ch,ut. •10 / 157 44 f. I , "1157 32 o/lS o',;/^'l^rvii,o. :f , 9S,5 98a 7 38 8 oO 6 53 C 59 I .34 4a I 1.55 9 154 1 I 152 42 152 33 9 (Mo; ntriivtil. irt. 20 IJ J^unk in. " t liait "J'tsrroy. 988 989 989 990 990 991 . I'.'He Lat, N. Mortlock Islw, Port Chamiaso, 1 , O , h Lukunor Islnnd Mortlock, 1793 .') 20 18 153 58 Liiiko. 992 Sotoau, Ta laUnd, W. end - 5 17 153 40 Chart. &93 Namoluk Ormip, Amcsse Id. - Liitko 5 45 15 153 16 30 Liitko. 993 Triik or Hogoluu Ids., l'i»o Id. Uiiperrey, 1824 7 42 30 151 40 Duperrey. 99*' South Island it 6 57 151 57 30 Chart. 994 Tsis Island, N.W. point »» 7 18 30 151 48 30 DUrviUe. 994 Hull IflHiids, Moiirileii Island - Hall 8 41 152 25 Chart. 990 Liitku ur East Ftiiu iHliitid Lutko 8 33 20 151 20 Lutko. 990 Numonuito CIroup, I'iserarr Id.- Ibargoitia, 1801 8 34 20 152 32 30 »i 997 Tumatam or Los Martircs, E. id. Duperrey, 182 1 7 27 30 149 28 Knorr. 997 I'uloat or Endurby Islunds, Alet Island Ronncck, 1820 7 19 25 149 15 Frevcinot 998 Silk or Ibargoilia Island Ibarguitiii, 1709 6 40 148 23 Chart. 999 Pikolot or Conuillo Islot Duporrey, 1824 8 9 147 42 Liitke, 999 West Fain Iskt Torres 8 3 146 50 Chart. 999 Hiitawal or Tucker Island Wilson, 1793 7 22 147 6 Duperrey. 1000 Lamotrek or Swodo Ida., S. id.- i» 7 27 146 30 Liiiko. 1000 Elato Island »» 7 30 140 19 ,1 1000 Olimarao Isles Lutko, 1828 7 43 30 145 50 45 II 1000 Ifalik or Wilson Ids., S.E. pt.- WUson, 1793 7 14 144 31 ri 1001 Woloa Group, N . extremity • It 7 22 G 143 57 53 II 1001 Itaour Island, N. uxtreme - 1* 7 21 39 143 57 30 ,1 1002 Foraulep Island Liitko, 1828 8 30 144 30 II 1003 Eauripik or Kama Islands Hunter, 1791 6 4" 143 10 ,1 1003 Sorol or Philip Islands, E. id. - t' 8 6 140 3 II 1004 Fais or Tromilin Island Tromelin, 1828 9 40 140 35 ,1 1004 Ulithi or Mackenzie Ids., Egoi, East o.xlrcmo n 10 7 53 139 54 58 Wilkes. 1004 Mopjmog Island - ti 10 6 139 45 30 Liitke. 1004 Yap, Eap, or Unawb Id., N. id. Hunter, 1791 9 37 25 138 7 50 D'Urville. ;CJ5 Hunter Keef If 9 07 30 138 22 Hunter. 10U7 Nfifoli or fllutelot^s Ids., N. id.- Vilklobus, 1545 8 35 137 40 Cheyne. 1007 I'ai.au or Pklkw Islands. Kvangle Island, centre It 8 2 30 134 38 30 Knorr. Kll Habelthuap Id., N.E. oxtr. - 7 40 30 134 38 45 1011 Korror Hr., Mulackan Pier - 7 19 134 31 45 Oravenor. 1012 Eil Malk Island, S.E. point - 7 11 30 134 27 30 Kuorr. 1013 I'elelew Id., island off' S. point 6 58 134 10 15 ,1 1014 Angaur Id., id. oflf S.VV. pt. - 6 50 Lat. 3. 134 10 n 1014 Anachor&tes Island - Bougainville, 17G8 .'iO 145 30 Bougainville. 1015 Comraerson Island - *f 40 145 17 Chart. 1010 Itoudeuse Island tt 1 26 144 34 liougainville. 1016 L'Echiquier Id., N.E. point >t 1 3 144 24 Bridge. 1010 Hermit Islands, Feme Islet Maurello, 178 1 1 28 50 145 5 45 Sanders, 1874. 1016 ]\latty Island Carteret, 1767 1 40 142 50 D'Entrecasteuux 1017 Duiour Island ,, 1 33 40 143 12 30 ,, 1017 1'iger Island Bristow, 1817 1 45 142 2 Bristow. 1017 New GiiNKA. Capo King William 6 1 147 38 Moresby. 1018 Astrolabe 13., Pt. Constantino 5 29 53 U5 40 b Cliurt. 1019 Humboldt Bay, Challenger Covo ... 2 30 140 42 11 H.M.f..Cfin!hngir 1021 Point D'Urville - 1 24 137 47 Jacquinot. 1022 Geelvink Bay, Jobi, Anisus Harbour, Station Point - 1 44 30 135 49 Powell. 1023 Danger Islet 17 135 3 ( hart. 1024 Port Dorei, Mana-Souaii I. 54 134 7 1} 1024 Lat. N. 1 St. Darid or Freowiil Islands - TTnrmck, 17(U 57 134 21 Williams. 1024 Helen Reef, N.N.E. end Seton, 1794 3 lol 52 I'oJcrson. 1025 Tobi or Lord North Island Uid y,.,il,, I7M 3 3 131 4 Chart. 1026 Muriere or Warren Hastings I. U»tchiuBon, 1701 4 19 30 132 28 30 McClellan, 1026 Annnl fciausol ISLA] Ti'i ClippeJ Passioil Ukvili Socoil TABLE OP OEOGRAPHICAL POSITIONS. XXIX Anna or Current Island I rr ■ , bamoral or «t, Andrew lalandjSuf 1761 ^oog. K. 4 39 6 20 132 4 132 20 ISLANDS BETWFPv t a TITUDES l5o & 2o^N Clipperton Island, rock 1 «ss.on Idund or I{ock jMaurjr. Clipporton, J 705 JJubocago •I Villalobos, 1542 f^myth, IS07 I wuko, i7ae . .oiauu or Kock bocorro or 8. 'I'omas, hmith wa.to Bay. landfng-placo 'tUrB^'^--i^ja„d: Johnston Islands, w" islpt "/ t .. CHspar Kico,or8„,yth IsiLds'l °''"'*°"> ''^"^ Wakes Island Mariana or Lai.hone Ids •- ' ^VAM, Ajayan P„int ' " ttI ]* ^i5"* ^''°"l (P-J-) - lama'K"''^'.^^™'^^" Port Tarofofo . Itola Island, summit Affinjan Island, centre "vmaV;^«°'^'^--'«Road, Saipan Id Magicienno Bav ^i'rallon do Modinilla ^ Armtaxan Island, centre Sariguan Island - lioib'''^''"'''?'^^''''^^.-; Guguan Island ." Alamagnn Island, E. point l'«g:m Island, N.E. ;„^d Agngan Island, S.E. point Am.ncion Island, crattr Urracas Islands . '"i(.jaS'' "^ ^-"- d I-indsay Island (e. d ) I'liirencu Shoal . Dugay Trouin litef - 10 17 17 II ' Long. W. 109 13 Sir P n 7 u I •'I u Woolndgu. 11027 1 1027 IC28 1029 18 42 67 1 110 56 r,-i 18 59 40|U2 7 30 Dowoy. 18 20 30 16 44 48 14 41 30 19 18 I Foster, Sec T'oiigJas f'iiiiisay Wa-'>'--Nut Makahanaloa Point - aiauna Kca Volamo Ll">lu Point Kawaihao Bay, lighthouse llauna Hualalai 114 43 10 169 39 35 Long. E. 168 56 15 166 41 15 11 If, 144 43 40 12 30 144 15 A o i^. h^ 39 13 19 50 |I44 37 30 11 fl ^5 1 144 39 45 13 18 9 144 45 j * 7 30 145 13 4 J^ 51 145 31 Sir E. Belcher, "rooko. Freycinet. Chart. D'Urvillo. Froyciuot. Sanchez. Dupurrey. 14 59 22 15 8 30 15 Cd 20 16 20 16 41 16 51 17 16 50 17 35 18 7 18 46 20 19 45 20 6 35 145 36 20 145 43 55 146 145 40 146 47 145 60 145 50 16 146 51 5.5 145 52 145 41 45 145 29 145 20 (1030 11031 11031 1032 1 1033 1 1034 11035 1 1042 1 1042 1043 11044 |1044 (1047 (1047 1049 19 90 ." P^^ 8 10 19 f H3 18 19 6 124 43 Harvey. Sanchez. Froycinot, &c. oauchoz. I Foster. Froycinet, Sanchez. Wilko.s. Sanchez. ■t'reycinet. Sanchez. Lind.say. Widsworth. Denior. (1049 (1053 (1054 (1055 (1056 (1055 (1056 (1067 (1057 (1058 (1059 1 1059 (1069 (10(30 (lOiiO (lOOI 19 30 19 43 51 19 61 30 19 49 10 20 IG 30 20 2 58 19 42 Long. W. (154 61 15 155 5 15 156 6 15 1'''5 28 iG 155 5G 156 51 155 53 30 Chart. ' Maldun. Chart. Chanibrd. Chart. 1 1073 (1074 1077 1072 1078 1078 1072 r^'i-^-' €•'-; I 4 • (' U asx :!^:::^jzj:^;;^^>^c^l Posm„.v3. Discoverer. Ut. North. '""(f. ■MoLoKAi Uoi ' ■^'" '^- point . Laeo'kite,°rf. point. Wiiiinoa I'oint Mana l^oiiglas, 1789 Los A hjos Rocks . Iteed Hocks ' ^' P°'"t j^'-^^cker Islan >, centre GardnerTlSd'''*'''^"" ■ M^'roIW N.W.end" f owset lieof 3f 'S.? '"'-: J^rusonstoru Rock .' '^'^ ^''' flicllish Jiunk '' Jf">cu8 Island ^J-.i.,i(o..j„,,,„J^^^^^^^^_. N'^rarqiiina, Uoi ''L'ld, I8o0 Lit Perouso. '-rooks, hs.iu AiU-n, 1820 Alien, KS20 J'^'iii'ifkaiiuha Ainorifan Libiansky, I805 '/^''W-t*, 1822 Brooks, 1859 Americnn I^iMiioaky, 1805 'luthuiitio. I Long. VV. 10 37 -h \m 4 20 19 29 ( 19 28 ( 18 /)4 c 19 25 ^'0 35 20 16 2l> J2 35 20 64 15 20 52 20 39 20 38 ii) 20 37 30 20 28 , 20 46 20 56 21 9 ( 21 G c 21 18 15 21 38 21 34 13 21 18 G 156 2 155 38 155 41 . 1)5 IS 150 25 150 I 1'50 15 „ 156 27 49 156 42 30 1'56 28 156 30 45 150 35 150 43 156 51 157 4 156 43 157 19 157 39 i 158 4 158 16 Uuperroy. Lg^, Wiil.l. U.S.Iix.Expo.ln, Chart. <'la|)p. Wiart. •• 21 57 50 21 52 21 57 12 22 1 30 22 13 21 46 „ 21 59 46 ''^^^'"M^ckson. 159 27 20 159 28 3U 159 40 159 47 30 159 20 ICO 13 30 100 6 30 jlfiO 8 45 160 32 30 |10I 45 Chart. 24 58 20 10 50 37 35 23 35 23 40 23 52 25 40 25 31 -'5 13 25 47 17 20 115 52 36 118 17 ;iC 137 30 164 40 100 16 10 160 40 107 59 1"0 37 30 iro 38 i"l 52 4- 173 57 27 ^^ 30 175 4g ^;i'''ini, 1799 JXorroll, 1825 Marshal], 1788 -'8 14 28 13 30 28 24 45 22 15 28 9 29 57 34 25 24 14 21 40 1"7 23 15 1"7 18 20 178 27 45 175 37 Lf'Ug. E. '5 48 - Chart. '•Tessan. 'f<"l field. rJruoko, Jlrooke. Brooks. iirooke. ,, " •-"ptjiin. iirooke. Brooks. Reynolds. (I 174 31 178 47 154 1 151 35 T • •" iwsiansky. '^ipijiii." (?) Jlorroll. I Belknap. I ^larshalj. 1082 1072 1085 1072 1080 1086 1080 1087 1087 1089 1090 1090 1090 1090 1090 1091 1092 1093 1 094 1094 1096 IlIOO llloi (1101 1 1102 (1102 1 1103 (1104 /l'05 1 1105 1 1105 11107 I '107 (1109 (1109 jlllo /I112 (1112 Ini2 (1113 |1U3 |1U4 |llI6 jlIlS 1118 1 1122 11123 j'l ^^!^!;!!!!!!^^ i:>>iJonRX*'«°° Islands. vS"hi -"wukido; Ofe;Z,.t'"«. .summit" j?cep Bay ,^,«l'e Hefo ,.fapo ynkim,, ." T,:sr^' ^°"''' po'-nt SrMffoo, 1773 ;?':«'•<"*. ir.ss 27 44 35 27 30 27 2 27 5 3. 2fi 30 ( 24 14 c 2'< 40 25 24 54 25 34 27 13 21 43 30 20 30 24 35 24 28 26 52 46 30 60 ZO 44 30 20 30 27 30 48 30 30 47 15 30 42 30 45 30 49 30 30 60 ,"2 15 (, 1'12 10 142 1, 3„ Ml 20 ]\\ 19 111 16 45 HO 40 140 60 136 10 134 ,131 26 „ ' ■?/ ^2 15 \i^ 3 30 130 62 130 31 130 14 130 26 3 J 130 18 130 19 130 7 129 60 129 20 I fieechoy. Krusonstern. (-hurt. Ln.'trt. Qiiin. -^ ""/'', &c. mean. Kondjitk. Knorr. I'.rry. Cetillo. <''hfut. 1850. ' 30 4 , 29 69 29 63 ' 29 64 29 62 , 29 41 29 38 ' 29 27 ( 29 13 ( ,29 8 C I 28 48 \m 3 129 60 129 38 129 33 129 52 30 129 32 30 129 42 129 37 30 29 20 30 29 13 30 /129 2 '''* "129 47 30 p'««c.hcht.,i84G,K 'll44 1144 '^""■"- /1145 |1I45 |1I45 |1145 |II45 |1146 1 1145 /1146 fll46 |1146 |ll4G 1130 1130 1131 1132 1130 1137 1137 1137 1138 1139 113a 1139 1140 1141 1141 1142 1143 1143 1143 1143 1143 28 31 28 18 , 28 J8 27 46 ' 27 52 30 /]28 /129 42 11^ ^2 30 29 59 30 128 68 Chnrt. Chart. lira, I ^-^te^3j 26 "I '' \^i n 'o 26 5 1274/ II I': It kl '' 20 or ',i " 1 126 49 QA '' '^^ '127 14 i c£t!''""^^'''- |1147 |1147 |ll48 /1I49 I1149 [1149 /1I49 1 1150 /II50 1153 ,1154 |1155 /1155 /1166 fll66 |1156 .1 ^ . I' 'Jo '( i -> txxii TATII.E OF riEOORAniirAL POSITIONS. Ili-inHllT. l,i>t. Nortli. I.IJTIH. Aiillinrilin. I'Kt ( 'y ** ( * MriACo-HiMA Inlands. Kiimi Islanil, Woat rinl 24 2.') 122 r.(i Chart. 1157 Kii-kicn-Biin, Wust uml 21 ly 123 38 It !!')« lliisyokiin, or Hiuiily Inland - 24 3 123 40 ti 1168 I'lk-chiiDK-Hiwi, IVrt llitd- dinptun, North point Tai-pm-Hnn, Junk Bay, 24 25 124 6 30 11.')!) South point 24 45 30 1215 10 tt 11(10 Hnn-pin-su, Norlh sidi ■i.i 47 7 123 .'iO 30 It 1102 Ti-a-uBu - 2.") as 30 123 40 •t 11G3 Italuigh Rock \mH.J}alri!/h,\S:\7 25 57 124 2 ti 1103 llecruit loliiud Lyall, t8(>l 25 67 40 124 43 moiui. 11G3 03. 77. 80. bi). I Ho. I ADDENDA. (Thv Julhwinij mfotmation hat been received too late/or iniertion in the Book.) TAOE 4y. I Imliistn'f Rock oould not be found on a close examination of the localit}' by the U.S.S. Ilaiiiji'f, and has been removed from the charts. A 2-fathoin!i »\\uix\ and a rock awash lie about half u mile offshore, in lat. 12^' 8' 4U N. 03. I PORT REALE JO, or Co;( i'jto.— The lighthouse on Cardon Island has been burnt. A temporary light is shown, visible 2 or 3 miles. 77. I SAN JOSE DE' OTJATEMALA.— A railway is completed to the capital, which is about 80 miles distant, and o,()()0 ft. above sca-levcl. 80. I Champerico. — A railway is completed to lletalhuleu. bl). I Morro Ayuca. — A rock, with 10 ft. water on it, lies IJ mile S.W. J S. from the southern extreme of Ayuca Point. 05. I Sacrijicios lU -Sacrijivios Hock, of 11 ft., on which the U.S.S. Tunamn-a touched, lies near the fairway entrance to the inner anchorage, with the West entrcmc of Saerificios Island bearing N. by W. f W., the S.E. ex- treme N.E. by N., nearly, and 810 yards E. by N. J N. from the South extremity of the West entrance point. 131. I I'uisllu Point. — The reef is reported to extend IJ mile oil'. The best anchorage northward of it is with Tiastla I'oiut bearing B. i E., and San Miguel Point N.W. 171. I San Lorenzo iicc/has a hlack buoy on its southern edge. 197. I San Geronimo Island. — Heavy breakers were seen from the U.S.S. liuufier, just Nortli of San Antonio Point. The North breakers bear, approximately, S.E. by S. f S. from Uaja I'oint, and N. i W. from San Geronimo Iisluiid ; the South breakers, S.E. by S. ; S. from Baja Point, and S.E. by E. ] E. from the island. 211. I Santa Monica. — The pier has been destroyed; Wilmington is now the only port of J.iih AUtjck'ti. North rtuijir. i',^ ; - 5 f T ■'^>' ;*■* i ADDENDA. PACE 2a7. I MoiiUmt Point. half minutt. -Tl-.. Fill/ Whistk now sounds a blast of 5 scroiids in every 'iU. I SAN FRANCISCO.— An elkctuic light, visible a long distance seaward, is shown on TvUyraph Hill, as a guide for the ferry boats. Time Signals. — Ou TeUyraph Hill, and on Mare Inland (p. 248), balls arc dioppcd at uoon, mean time of the 120th meiidian. 329. I PORT AKGELOS.— During fogs a Uell (in a white pyramidal structure, 108 yards N.W. by N. from Ediz Hook lighthouse) is struck by machinery once every 1 5 seconds. 337. I PUGET SOUND.— A steam Fog Whistle, giving a blast of 6 seconds in every minute, is established on Robinson Point, Maury Island, in lat> 47' 23J' N., long. 122° 23' W. 382. I ACTIVE PASS. — On Georgina Point, East side of the northern entrance, is a squoi'c white wooden lighthouse, 42 ft. high, showing a Jixed bright light, elevated 55 ft., and visible 12 miles, between S.W. ^ S. and E. ^ N., through West and North. .756. I CAFE SOTA LIGHTHOUSE.— On Cape Soya, the North extreme of Yezo, is an iron tower, 54 ft. high, painted white with three black bands. It shows a revolving light, with a flash every half minute, elevated 132 ft., and visible 17 miles, between W. § S. and E.S.E., through North. In foggy weather a Bell is sounded twelve times every minute. The light and fog signal are discontinued from December to March, inclusive. 630. I Macedonian "R.eei.—Kamegi Shoah\,\ih IJ to 2J fathoms on it, lies about 1 J mile W. J S. from Macedonian Kcef. It is about 7 cables in extent N.E. and S."\V., with u breadth of 3 cables. THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN. CHAPTER I. >^: r^*" THE COAST OF CENTRAL AMERICA. The country whose southern coast is described in this chapter, includes that long, narrow, and irregular tract which forms the junction between the northern and southern continents of America. Up to a recent period it was, politically and socially, most unimportant, and our knowledge of it was almost inferior to that acquired by the early Spanish possessors. But since the colonization and development of the resources of North-west America, conse- quent chiefly on the gold discoveries, it has rapidly drav.n the attention of all in- terested in shortening the highways of coniraex-ce, to the facility it affords for an inter-oceanic transit. The great success and surpassing utility of the Panama Kailroad, completed January 27th, 1855, increased the desire that a ship canal should be cut through the isthmus, aiid an attempt to carry out this grand project is now being made, under the direction of M. F. do Lesseps, as hereafter mentioned. The eastern portion of the great isthmus, that of Panama and Darien, belongs to the United States of Colombia (formerly called New Granada), which have the excluske privilege of this important transit. On the western boundary of this state is the republic or state of Costa Eica, one of the former confederation of republics of Central America. This territory, including an area of 1 Go, 051 square miles, is now divided into the five republican states of Guatemala, Honduras, Nicaragua, San Salvador, and Costa Eica. The Federal District, winch up to 18;'5 was Nurth Pacific. B '''""' '"■''' "■■■ "-^VniAL AMKWCA. , ' "■"•■■■ " 'liviJeil fr„„, ,,,,,( of jr ' , Guatemala, the western i:;.'; r ■* ■■■■ "T- '«-■ - r; ;?: "" '- — »- «.:;: I oeen very imperfectly on .he AU He. "? '"^''''' '''^^- ''°''> -^u^ : Narrative' tT' T ' ^'^'^ '^^ ">^ --^« of Cap,. S/rEdw ^; H ;r V*^" '^' ''' '''■'^' ".v ,^ '' te'? '^?'- Bovlfl Pl^ao ,, tontral America, arc- A 7?;^ . t^eograpluoal Socie,, ," April, ,«s;, "' '" '" ''^""'^ "" '"o "IToceedings of the Hoy ai the ..fly by Col. (ho of •ho kh m, nd ly TIIl'l COAST OF CENTRAL AMERICA. 3 Mountains. — In describing the general physical features of the country, these naturally become the first in order, influencing as they do the rest of its surface. The elevated range (a contintiance of the Andes) in Central America has no determined name, and is in many parts without a visible existence. It com- mences in Costa liica, at a distance from the Pacific of about one-fourth of tlie whole breadth of the isthmus, and, at the beginning of its course, separates this state from Veragua ; in Nicaragua it inclines close to the borders of the I'acific, leaving the lakes on the East ; in Honduras it returns towards the Atlantic, leaving the whole stite of Salvador on the South ; traversing Guate- mala, the new city and Chimr.ltenango stand on the top of the ridge, which now becomes more elevatcl as it approaches Mexico, and branching uito various groups, forms, in the western part of the state, that region which is vVnominated the highlands. The population on the Pacific side of the chain much greater in proportion to its extent than on the Atlantic slope. .he chain is apparently interrupted in its course through Central America by the transversal valleys containing the Lake of Nicaragua and the plain of •Comayagua, but still the elevation between the two oceans is considerable, and will be more dwelt upon when we describe the proposed canals, wliicli would render Central America of very great importance in the commercial workl,. should they ever be carried into execution. The Lakes of Nicaragua and of Leon, or Managua, are amongst the most important features of the country. On the Pacific .side, the rivers wliieh are met with rarely have their sources above 60 miles from the sea. Tlic Lempa is the principal, but is not navigable. The next in size is the llio Clioluteca, falling into the Bay of Conchagua. Although not jjossessed of good harboui's, yet it is still superior to Mexico in this respect. Vhe principal on the Pacific coast arc, Punta Arenas, lloalejo or Corinto !.* i'lion, Libertad, Acajutla, and San Jose. Voice ■%%,. ;e'..i.-*/.>n« are frequent, and their devastating effects have been, at times, v•^•^ .\-. . . The principal voleanos now, or recently, in activity, arc those of Cos'?j^'.. "a, f ■ alco, de Agua, and dc Fuego, and many others ; of these the Volcan de . ,^ ta is the loftiest, being dilTerently stated as 14,895 or 12,620 ft. above he Pacific. These volcarii .; cones, often separated from the general chain, and sufficiently lofty to be vis'ole 60 miles off, are most magnificent land-marks, and are thus most important aids to navigation. There are usually eight of these voleanos in activity — Isulco, las Pilas, Atitlan, Fuego, San Miguel, Momotombo, Orosi, and CartiUiO. Of these the first, Isalco, is an excellent beacon light, which overtor.,, r. .asonate; las Pilas is of recent formation, thrown up in 1850, and nlthouyh , : ..^-ios generally emit only sinoke. 'llic produclioHH of C'euliul xViuericu are important. The Tisingal gold &■ V ■ I ■ ■ >;: ■■^^, THE COAST OP Ppvtp * r ^t CENTRAL AMERICA. *^ninoiif> To "ines. near the Chirin r AMERICA. afforded as ™„eh ^01.11 t^r^f P J^T ^^'^^^^ »^^e of Costa Riea . of greater importance than T *^ '" ^"* ^^e vegetable '/'""' ^«^e coffee, sugar, and ooTton Le V '"™' ^' ^^^-ated^ its'" '''°" "^'^ height of the country ;! ™°'' Prominent. These T '' '"'''^°' -tton are grown L ' ^'^ ^^«^»*-° than 3 000 ft T-'"^ "''^ ^he An^encan possessions I„Z ^'"°'"'''« *« be the best furn t . . ' '*°'^ or the nopal cactus, cu i^'ir™' *'^''"^''-* the Jo 7'^^^ ''^.*^- the exports, coffee holds the first 1, "'' '' '""''''^'^S rapidlv „ 'nd>go. cochineal, sugar. /. ?* P ' "^^ ''*'^« ^"antiL S^' "°T^ o«^»ent coffee is exported t "j "^T*^ ^'•^"««. ^ the Gulf of V '^'°''' «-«..-_ThewhoLjfec ^'^^ ''-tin the Pacific^'' ^'^^'''°^«'- but the temperature and sfllnK""* ^'"^"*'" " ^'tuated between tl. ^ On the Pacific side, howe: r tl tT^', °^ ^^^ ^- World ' ''^ ""^^ are not sufficiently hi^h tn ' ! '^^ "^'"^ «till blows for ,u --h of its moisture Sd'T"' '""^'^ ^"^'^ -olen e ^^ / "°""'»''^« The climate i, . "' ^^^ olimate is verv d.tf " ''^^"^od of -re heX """^^^"^'-^^ -'-, much dri^atf !!" .^^ *^^^^'-tic side. The climate is . *^"' ^^^ climate is verv ditf " ^"^"^od oi "'^ to Witness an Pnf.v„ j.. - . Jt is rare o wifn. "-"^^uenuy very much '^ to Witness an entire Ho„ <• • sometimes hii* .., i ^ "^^ rain, even in *»„> • On the sea-eoast „f the Pacifi. .u * '-. •>« .'« .„,.e,r 1 trrrr «-. -'" •'- - *« — """■■''«'" the p„.i8^ ■liiia country is go pje • — - ' ' '««dence m it will b„ fou«d inJlJ'' ""^''^^'^''fe' account of ^"^ ^^AST OF COLOMBIA shores are healthy, although ♦), 5 S.E. to S.W., blowing ,„„ ,^ ™^. l^'" prevalent „i„d, ,,,.„ „; ™' torrent, of r.i„ f„, ,„^,,^ or fLtelV""'"' """^-S ""d wether td nearlv ever, ofternoon. .boot 3 H™ S' 'av ° T™'- "'""»« "■" -«n ^•E. and lasts till daylight Th , ' ^'°^^°* g"8t sets in fr«m ♦.. ---do. on>,e ^teolt:"" ""- '" ™"'- '*"'-'. «: ^Lt ^ the coast of Central Amerion f>, setting to the S V . "'"''* ^ne currents are variahlo k, * i ;.u».,orereo,e. o;Cnrr'^r' ^'"*" """•^--ree e,»«. . There ,. eo„,idemble diiBeulty in .„' ^ T '"" °'«'°" »' Z«mboe.. "on of the i.th„o. in the eb.e„ee ofTnv " « ^ ^^ ~™'"' "" "» l»Pula. = ^^c-t -5* - .eU::rb "• ''^ P'^P^^^^-'^ '« now estimated ^t t^oo ooo "'""' '^"' '''''>''' . r 1.;- Li^' i ( 6 ) 1. THE COAST OF THE UNITED STATES OF COLOMHIA, OR NEW GKANADA; PANAMA TO POINT BURICA. In our volume descriptive of the South Pacific Ocean, the directions for tb'» coasts of South America terminate with the Gulf of Panama. And this, al- though it lies eight degrees North of the Equator, will be a fitting commence- ment for our present work, as it is really the first point touched on by the transit trade from the Atlantic side. We therefore rcji' from that work those directions which refer to this portion of the coast of the United States of Colombia, or New Granada, Garachino Point on the East, and Cape Mala on the West, may be taken as the limits of what is called the Gulf of Panama. These points lie E.N.E. and W.S.W., true, 103 miles apart. The depth of the gulf within this line is about 80 miles, the city of Panama being at its head. Panama Bay is the space between the main and the Pearl Archipelago. Until the survey of 1849, by Captains Kellett and Wood, B.N., we were dependent for our knowledge on the old but excellent Spanish charts, and on the still singularlj' correct description given by Dampier, two centuries since. The following description of the coasts and islands of the gulf is taken from the Admiralty Directions, with additions from other sources. The BAY of SAN MIGUEL, to the N.E. of Garachine Point, on the eastern side of Panama Gulf, was well known to the Buccaneers, who used it as the entrance to the Pacific in their overland journeys from the Gulf of Darien, which they generally accomplished under 10 days. After Dampier's time it was almost forgotten until 1851, when the idea of a ship canal was suggested to connect it with Caledonia Bay, •"' the Gulf of Darien. The entrance to the gulf is Gi miles wide, between Lorenzo Point on the North, and Patino Point on the South. Buey Bank, an extensive shoal, drying in patches at low water, on which a heavy sea breaks, is 6 miles in circumference, its inner edge lying nearly 1 j- mile S.W. from Lorenzo Point, but the passage between should not be used, as there is only 10 ft. water in it, and generally a heavy swell. A spit with 12 ft. extends off its S.W. end for IJ mile, and only 4 J fathoms is found nearly 5 miles from it ; vessels should not stand within that depth. Colorado Point kept open of Patino Point, bearing N.E., is a good mark to clear this bank, and also for running into the bay. Further particulars of the bay, and of the approaches to Darien Harbour, will be found in the South Pacific Director^-. DABIEN HABBOUB, a magnificent sheet of water extending for 11 or 12 miles in a S.E. direction as far as the village of Chupigana, is formed by the junction of the Tuyra and Savannah Rivers. The depth of water from Paley Island as far as the mouth of the Savannah, a distance of 2 miles, is from 10 to 4^ fathums, beyond which there is not more than 12 to 18 ft. at low water PlKl.lJlHKD BY R H I.M RU . •* H t > 1 "^TREIT U di^MHMA -rrzr. — JT'- \r' I.AS,NV>Vr,.,,^^ / f -^ M " A ^ >» ■' -TV . r K 1^ U.A/»S u t: MRU •< Ursn <^.THEl.T LONDON illl _J ' V^-v. 'Sulphur /i»i'>.F"""' " '"■"'^ II "<■•' .'A'.Toh.u/mrii Hociiio I. jft. "■•; H^# -3>l C^ ' J" . ";- ilSHED BY RH LAI RIE 53. FLE^ DARIEX IIAUnoUR— rKAUL ISI.AXDS. sprinps. The best jilneo for anchoring is off tho vilhigo of I'almn, 1 mile to the Houthwnrd of I'rice Point, on the South side of the Boca Chicii, in from 7 to 10 fathoms, nt about 3 cnblcs fnmi the shore. The River Tuyra, the Sanln Maria of the Spnninnls nnd Ruccnnecrs, rises in lilt. 7° 40' N., and enters Durien Harbour near the village of Chupiyaua. The Hirer Chuchunaque, which flows into the Tuyra, rises in lat. 8' 50 N., westward of Caledonia l!ay on the Atlantic ; its course appears to have been the favourite track of the Huceancers from the Atlantic to the Pacific. Savannah River, which was tho one generally preferred for the proposed junction of the oceans, rises in lat. 8" 44' N., and a few miles from its source meets the liivrr Lara, where the bottom is level with the half-tide. It is high water, on full and change, in Darien Harbour, at 4'', and the spring rise is said to be 24 ft. The tides in the narrows at the entrance run propor- tionally strong, and great care should therefore be taken. San Jose' Bank, a dangerous shoal, 1 mile long by three-quarters of a mile broad, in the centre of w'.iieh is TroUope Rock, with only 2 ft. water, lies in the fairway of ships bound to Panama from the southward, being 15 miles W. \ S. from Garachine Point, and 9 miles E.S.E. from Oalera Island, the south-eastern of the Vc»t\ Islands. It is easily avoided either by keeping on the main shore until Garachino Point bears to the southward of East, or by passing about 2 miles from Calera Island, taking care of the shoal patch and rocks off its southern side. PERLAS, or PEARL ISLANDS, also known by the names of Mas del Bey, Islas del Istmo, and Idas de Colombia, form an archipelago on the eastern side of the Bay of Panama, consisting of sixteen islands and several rocks. Isla del Bey is the largest, San Jose, Gonzales, Casaya, Saboga, and Pacheca are of secondary, and the rest of minor importance. There are from 30 to 40 fishing villages scattered about these islands, containing about 2,000 inha- bitants, chiefly engaged in the pearl fishery, which is said to produce about two gallons of pearls a year ; the shells also form a lucrative article of com- merce much inquired after by French vessels. In 1874 the government pro- hibited any oysters being dredged for the space of seven years, on account of a disease having appeared among them, probably owing to over-fishing. These islands are low and wooded, the soil fertile, but not much cultivated ; most rf them belong to merchants at Panama, who employ negroes to plant ■ : cultivate them. The numerous cocoa-nut groves, and bright sandy beaches, intersected by small rocky bluffs crowned with trees, give these islands a pleasant aj)pearaucc. Pacheca, Saboga, and Contadora, with the islets of Bartholomew and Chipre, are a group in the northern part of the archipelago, forming between them a good and capacious harbour, well suited as a depAt for steamers. Pacheca and Contadora are covered solely by palm trees, unmixed with any others, which is singular. Saboga, the largest island, on the East side of ^V|. WM ■•' . *'■■, ■t S TIIK COAST OF COLOMIIIA. which is n ponsiderahlc villngp, hns a roof oxtotulinp I. J mile to the northward, which, with t'hiprc to the Moutliwunl, furmn the wcnUtii side of thin hurhoiir, I'nclieca and Uartholoinew being on ihe northern, and Contadora on the Houth- cnHtern side; the latter ishmd has 5 futhoinH close to it8 N.W. shore, which is h)W and well adapted for wharves. This harbour is about 2 miles long by nearly 1 mile broad, with an average depth of y fathoms ; iv has three entrances, each possoesing a 6-fathoms chaimel, which may be used as best suited to wind and tide. It is high water, on full and change, at Saboga Island, ai 4*'; springs rise 11 ft. Vessels 'ising the Pacheca Channel siiould pass within half a mile of the small island West of Pacheca, and stand to the southward until the centre of llartholomew Island bears E. by S. ^ S. Steer for it on this bearing until the northern islets otf Saboga open wostward of Sabtga, bearing S. by W. i W., when the vessel m?} haul lO the southward for Contadora. Lieut. Fleet, 11. M.S. Ganntt, 1880, remarkt that when entering by this channel upon the ebb tide, the East extreme of Saboga Isla.nd must not be brought to bear eastward of S. i E. to avoid belag set upon '.he N.E. rocks of the ledge extending North from Saboga, several of which cover at from one-third to two-thirds flood. If entering by the Contadora Channel, a ship should pass half a mile to the e.istward of Bartholomew Island, and not stand to the westward before the nearest islets North of Saboga open northward of Saboga, bearing W. by S. J 8., which leads through. Care must be taken not to open them too much, as there is u 2-fathoms patch off the N.E. end of Contadora to be avoided. Vessels frop'. the eastward using the Sahoya Channel, which is reported to have several shoal spots in it and should be used with caution, should pass half a mile eastward of Contadora, and continue standing to the southward until the outer islet on the reef off the South end of Saboga opens southward of the same island, bearing W. ^ 8. Steering on this course will clear the vessel of the su iken rock in this channel, which lies nearly 1 mile off the South side of Contadora ; and when Pacheca is shut in by Saboga, bearing N. i W., you may stand to the northward, and run through the channel, which is steep-to on both sides. If this harbour wert used, a few buoys would greatly assist the navigation. Chapera and Pajaros lie next to the southward, with a 4-fnthom8 channel between them, but the grc und is foul, and it should not be used. No vessel should attempt the passages South of Chapera Island, between it and Isla del Rey. Casaya, Bayonets, and Vi^eros, with several islets and rocks, are the largest islands on what may be termed an extensive reef stretchin;^ off from the N.^V. point of Isla del Hey, about 8 miles long by 6 miles broad, the passages between them being foul v.ith occasional strong tides. A shoal, IJ mile long by three- quarters of a mile wide, Laving only 9 ft. water on its shoalest part, lies nearly MAY OF PANAMA— PKAUL ISLANDS. 4 I nle« to the cauwu d . ' the North point of Casiiya. The whole of these islands dhoulil bo avoideil liy vc .scIh hound up t)ie bay. I8LA DEL RET, the main island c( thn group, is about 15 milcH lonj» by 7 miles bmad, with se v 1 peaks on '"t, the highest being about 000 ft. above the 8ca. Numerou.i islets, having di ep water between tben>, lie off its western shore, extending 3 miles from the coaht, but they should not bo ajjproached by strangers within the depth of 10 fathoniS. C'ocos Point, its -southern extreme, is a remarkable promontory jutting into the sea, 4 miles long l)y about I mile wide, its e.xtreme clitt' being crowned (in 1859) by an umbrella-like tree, which makes it con.spicuous. East of this point is the fine liny of St. Elmo, with con- Tenicnt anchorage in all parts, and a good stream of water at Lemon I'l int, in the bight of the bay. The eastern shore has also islands off it, but they are stccp-to, and may be approached to half a mile, with the exception of Canas Island at the eastern point, where there is a 3-fathoms patch lying outside a sunken rock, nearly 1^ mile from the shore. San Migv.al, the principal town of these islands, on the North side of Isla del Key, is of some size, possessing a conspicuous church ; it is, however, badly situated, landing being difficult at low water. Two hills (the C'crro Congo and Ccrro Vali) lie to the southward of it, the former being 181 ft. high. Supplies are uncertain and dear, being generally all sent to I'anama. Care must be taken in approaeliing it, as the bottom is irregular, and rocks abundant. OALERA, a small island, generally the first land made by vessels bound to Panama, is 7J miles E. J S. of Cocos Point, like which it is remarkable for its umbrella tree. A cliff forms its southern side, sloping down to a beach on the North, and to the southward a reef runs off for nearly 1 mile. 1 his island should not l>c approached within the depth of 10 fathoms, but there is a good passage between it and Cocos Point, by using which the vessel will be clear of San Joso Bank. GONZALES, or Pedro Gonzales, lies on the West side of Isla del Bey, with a broad, deep channel between it and the islets before mentioned. It is about 12 miles in circumference, and has on its northern side two bays, protected from the North by the Islands of Senora and Sciiorita. These bays, called Pfri'j and Mayicienne, were re-examined in 1858 as to their capabilities for a depot for steamers, and although not so good or so near to Panama as the har- bour South of Pacheca, yet still have some advantages. They arc divided by the little peninsula of Trapiche, off the East point of which is a rocky ledge, terminating in a shoal with 14 ft. water, 3 cables from the point. A large stream of water runs into the sea on the western side of Magicienno Bay. This bay, however, is small and shoal, without the advantages of Perry Bay, whieh is 1 mile wide, and runs back for the same distance. Senora and Senoriia, including the shoal off their eii,stern side, are about 1 mile long, and Ao/7/i Pacijic. ^ n..u r '1 y. i 10 THE COAST OF COLOMBIA. i ! i I tiii '1 \\\ \ lie nearly tlic same distance northward of Triipiche, vrith a 7-fathoms channel between, stoop-to on both sides. Gonzales was purchased in December, 18.57, by the British Government, of an Anierican citizen for £1,000, the New Granada Government consenting and retainini;; the sovereignty. No building was to be erected on it, but a vessel was to be moored. It was intended as a watering station for II. M. fleet. It is high water, on full and change, in Perry Bay, at S"" 50"", the rise being 1 6 ft. The tide stream is not felt in the anchorage, but there is a considerable set otl'the island, the flood setting to the northward, and the ebb to the south- ward, the latter being generally the strongci*. San Jose' Island, about 6J miles long by 3 miles broad, lies 4 miles directly South of Gonzales, the summit forming a table land. Nearly 2 miles S.E. from Isi;uana Point, the northern extreme, is a large waterfall, running into the sea, and forming an excellent watering place. Passage Rock is a dangerous sunken rock, with 1 2 and 9 fathoms alongside of it, lying near the centre of the channel between San Jose and Gonzales, which otlierwise is deep and clear. It is I.J mile from Gonzales, and 2 J miles from San Jose. Vessels should keep between the San Joso shore and this rock. The COAST. — Brava Puint forms, with Lorenzo Point, from which ii is distant '2 m>lcs, the nortlicrn point of entrance to San Miguel Bay. Both these jjoints ai'o edged with reefs and outlying rocks. Farallon Ingles is a small but high island, lying at the edge of the shoal off the River Buenaventura, about 5 miles to the northward of Brava Point ; 12 and 15 ft. water is found on its western side. Gorda Point, bold and woody, with 4 fathoms closo-to, lies 4 miles northward of the Farallon ; there is less swell after pas;sing this point. The Pajarns arc two small rocky islets, 4 miles north- ward of Gorda Point, with 4 and 5 fiithoms to the westward, but only 1 2 ft. between tliem and the shore. At these islets the .5-fathoms shoal commences, which continues in front of the coast round the Bay of Panama as far as Point (;inim6, on its western shore. The River Trinidad, 2^^ miles northward of the northern islet, has a low rocky point, forming the S.W. point of the entrance. A lUfathoms channel was found into this river, extending 1^ mile from the point. Sh(i(i Rock, a barren islet, fre([ucnted by birds, with shoal water round it, lies 2i miles from this entrance. Man(/ue and Majaciuay, 7 miles from the River Trinidad, are high, wooded islets at high tide, lying on a mud flat. There is a depth of from 10 to 12 ft. water to the westward of them. C/iiman River, to the northward of the.se islets, is wide at the mouth, but shoal, being nearly dry at low water. On the eastern side, under a hill, is the small town of Chitnun. This was the spot to which PizaiTo retired in 1.52.5, after beating iibout for 70 days with much dan- ger and incessant fatigue, without being able to make any advance to the south- ward. He was here joined by Almagro, und the following year they sailed again for Peru. the has sides! need I Ch| I)ain[| of the mile ascent mark within I point il is low with sh Thel Ears, al extreme Chepo ■■■'•^'^^"'r'WKr m \'w i m m* mm aM i Pelado Islet, W the Kiver Chi h' S. 4 miles from Afa raepm» Wand 3, ^ , ^ ' '""•"■»■ "-l"" -.bin.™, „':;" ,"" ""' ""'■^ '"■^ .out* ^:'°'■'*''"«•-"»"™. Js low river land w.-H. ■"''' c«ast bchveen ff,; . , "^ "ortheni The land North cf these ' • • ' ^«rs, about 19 «>•! xr ^*^''^ '""'^^'^'^o elovot;.^^ r^ , Chepo fiiver exte' ' ""■^P"^"""'*- '"*' "* *^'^' ^Vest itssource near the herofTho t^'' "^ ^^e interior of the isth.n . ward of Chepillo !«,„„,, th ..;;';;; ^^;-- i'i- entran:o':i "'"^ s^'ls should stand uo n^-.. ., ^''' ^^''"'"el, about s . 1 1 , "'•■'^- PANAMA is one of the " r f "™. Wi. , tl,ot f «'"l'li>l....mt of a ', "" '" ''"■''■». l.»t wa. -—--...;. j:*:;-- ,^' I ' ' '^' ''V' "'*>' ' r «3 1 ■f'\>. 4 A ■« ,:f *>■ 1^ ^ II 11 i; i h i i> I uM i !! ' i 13 THE COAST OF COLOMBIA. The site of Panama has been once changed. Where the old city stood, which is about 4 miles N.E. of the present situation, was aheady, when the Spaniards first reached it in 1515, occupied by an Indian population, attracted to it by the abundance of fish on the coast, and who are said to have named it " Panama" from this circumstance, the word signifying much fish. They were, however, speedily dispossessed, and even so early as in 1521, the title and privileges of a city were conferred on the Spanish town by the Emperor Charles the Fifth. In the year 1G"() it wus sacked and reduced to ashes by the buccaneer Morgan; and it was only after this built where it now stands. Its present position is on a tongue of land, shaped nearly like a spear head, extending a considerable dis- tance out to sea, and gradually swelling towards the middle. The old site is now quite deserted, but is well marked by a tower. Immediately about Panama, East along the coast, and N.W. from it, the land is low and flat, but West and N.E. the mountains approach it closely ; and from a hill called Cerra Ancon, about a mile West from the city, and 540 ft. high, an excellent bird's-eye view is obtained of the whole adjoining country, includ- ing the city, the islands in the bay, the neighbouring plantations, the mountains of V'eragua, the Pearl Islands, the flat country towards Chagres, the elevated chain l)etween Porto-lJello and Panama, the Rio Grande, the low land along the coast towards the Pacora and (.^hcpo, Panama Vieja, &c., all which come successively under review, and together constitute a landscape beyond measure l)eautiful. The city consists of two parts, the city j>roper of San Felipe, occupying the peninsula, and the suburb of Santa Ana on tiie isthmus. It contained a popu- lation of 25,000 in 1881, 5,000 being foreigtun's, who form the business porti"" "■« level. The , ' "■ "" *■<"" "'» """.port of L„„r '°* "P •» "Web the »mau„ .! " ''°""''""' ■•»-. a. r:r rc:r r ' ^"""" '^^ •'-«::: '^' ■'• "■-;.v n.-o. w„„e. .. p.,1 r """^ ^"^»- ^ '»■%•=. i^: l:^ :r He JPaaam. cm.1 o „ ""■»'• m,le „„,,h. an t'«t mated f^.t r z ^ furnicd to carrv- ti.- , • ■'^^'^^ of the '"t from the p,„„„^ ' ,7'"' '■"Ol'™ for Ih. p.«,„ „f„ '""''»■«)'. .? > » ''-» 1 eaMM 1^ I 14 THE COAST OF COLOMBIA. « I the course of which the canal will follow for about 4 miles. Thence it follows nearly the line of the railway, debouching into the Pacific at Pcrico, close to Panama, where it is to be widened to form a harbour. The total length will be about 45^ miles, with a depth of 27 ft. 10 ins., and a width varying from 73 ft. in hard rock, to 188 ft. in soft earth, with sidings at intervals for the passage of vessels. About 100,000,000 cubic yards of earth and rock will have to be removed; the summit ridge is 287 ft. above the mean sea-It, !. Among the many great difficulties the engineers will have to contend with, besides the climate, are the great bodies of water brought down in the rainy season by the Chagres Eivcr and the Rio Grande, and other streams, the route of the canal crossing and re-crossing these rivers. To obviate these floods it is proposed to construct canals to carry the water oif, and also to form a large reservoir in the upper valley of the Chagres. The range of tide is also about 20 ft. higher at Panama than at Colon, which will much interfere with the project of a canal free from locks, a difficulty it is proposed to overcome by establishing large lock chambers at the Panama end. Petillo Point, IJ mile to the \.E. of Panama, is a black rocky promontory with two small hills over it; rocky ledges extend from this point for IJ cable, and off their extreme a depth of 10 ft. may be found. A great portion of the bay, between this point and Panama, is dry at low water springs, yet at its entrance there is a depth of 8 ft. It is termed El puerto, or port of Panama, and it is here that most of the minor trade of the gulf is carried on by means of bongos, large canoes made from trees of such dimensions that some of them formed from a single trunk have measured 12 tons. Buey Point, only seen after half-ebb, forms the southern horn of this bay ; the long rocky ledges extend 3J cables from the N.E. bastion, 5 cables from the S.E. bastion in an easterly and 2^^ cables in a southerly direction, forming a bay southward of Buey Point, in which is easy landing after hnlf-flood, on a sandy beach in front of the Monk's gate. The general landing, however, is roimd Buey Point, at the market place on the northern side of the town. These lodges around the city, composed of rock witli sand patches between, although now iiksome and often dangerous to boats, afford every facility for erecting substantial piers and im- proving the port. The S.W. part of Panama Road is embarrassed by rocks and shoals. Although these dangers are mostly above water, yet this part of the Bay of Panama should bo avoided. Perico and Flamenco, with the outlying rock of San Jos/^, are a group of islands forming the South side of Panama Road. Ileiiao and Culebra, the western and southern parts of Perico, are connected with it by an isthmus of beach and rocks ; but at high water these present the appearance of three islands. Pcrico is the head-quarters of the United States mail steamers, the bay on its nortliern side forming a convenient anchorage, while en the isthmus, which is sandy on that side, steamers of 2,500 tons liave been easily benched. Vessels using this anchorage after passing the island of Flamenco should VI Lar gro just and must Da with 2i IM the ti brcczp that dangon tlieir cc ft. wate lies noai tlian 2 c shore of t Tides. - rise from fiom 1 to Directi( within 3 o and so hav p-'int Anco as the wine] over 18 ft. Rock on wi: towers are o ■"^''P is fair! t'''"i 18 ft. si 4 S-, and Sar Larger vosse "'I' peak of ''iiincnco, be IV'iico. If it "k' western sii •lit' eastward d V''.ssels (Ira,, Sulphur Jiocks, botwoen the R 'J'al'oguilla hea; 'Kv may ancho ^■'laiiicnco. witli 15 •^^^P close round the V ,. ^^""^^^A- .»»"« Oe Book,, , ; „°"*- . ' "■■ '» "■"'■ o»». »..e„,i„, ■Tides It ,•«)„■ L ^ "'*"'d attemrif f . ^^^^en and 1 9 ^* • i--t Aneon Hi,, ,,r;;7- ''^ the p,,,,,^ '^^f ^"^^ ^-^^bor and J,, , - tJ^^ -nd ha„,« to the w 7"' ""' '^""^'^ ^e tpt '^f, "^°''- ^^^m thL' ;;- ^« ft. shou,d p„ , ^rr""' "' "PP-oaehinrp; '"'^^ °" ^he port bo I^-k on With the Ct „ '^^ ''^"-'^«^ «oek?b? """ "^"^^^''^ '^-winl' ^--sareopentot lC:V';"'"^^«-^^'by?;r '""^""^ ^"^ ^^ ^^'"I> is fairJy in th. "*^^'^ of Ancon TT„ ^ ^ '^- ""^il the cath.,1 i t'-an 18 ft I '■"'^'^ ■■'«d may annh. '"^ P^^^ed the n„ , ^*'"' '« «• she may hare T. . , ^'^ accordine- fn i , ^""aWe the i'S anri Q r '*'^c ioztoJa iiiuf k S 10 her draft ■ -f "^^-^'•'^t-ard do not open 1 /'" '"' *^^»'»«nco to'l '' ^''■^''' tnek on S"'l''n.r Jiocks, with thn ir ^ ^ ' '^"'"tl' of tho n >"-- the Kveo :'"'"""- ''^^'^ «„ . • 1 f;"'^;'^'« «nd South of th« ;^-3-ehor AWth otthr: '^•"■^'^"" ^^'P^ l:? ^7^ ^^e pea' of ^-^r pe„i„,„j, ,,,^^; J ';^"-" ferieo and • . ; •' '■ I'd » { ;L 16 THE COAST OF COLO:\[RIA. by the S.E. bastion. During neap tides they may anchor more to the N.W. Panama Road, although shoal, may be considered secure ; the ground being muddy holds well. A sailor, resident in Panama for five years, remarks, that during that time there was no known case of a vessel being driven from her anchor ; and with good ground tackle and proper precaution a vessel might lie there all the year round with one anchor down. Attention to the tides and soundings of the roadstead will enable a vessel to lie close in at times for the discharge of cargo. TABOOA ISLAND, with those of Urava and Taboguilla, form a pleasant group of islands, about 4 miles long by 2 miles broad, lying 9 miles to the southward of Panama. Taboga, the highest and largest, 935 ft. above the sea, is well cultivated, with a considerable village on its N.E. side. To the north- ward of the village is the Morro of Taboga, a small hill, connected with the main island by a low, sandy isthmus, covered at high water. This place is the head-quarters of the Pacific Mail Company, who have here a steam factory and coal stores, also a gridiron, 300 ft. long (reported to be destroyed in 1877), on which H.M.S.JI/ay»c»V«nc, a vessel of 1,255 tons, was repaired in 1858. Vessels visit Taboga from Panama to procure water and supplies, both of which are more readily obtained than at the city. Water can be procured from the company's tank at 2 dollars per ton. The anchorage formed by the Morro is convenient, being about 3 cables from the shore in 10 fathoms, with the peak of Urava on with the high cliff at Taboga, and the church from S.W. ^ S. to West. Vessels coaling at this island should avoid giving liberty to their crews on account of the fever. Urava is a small, lofty island, separated from the S.E. point of Taboga by a narrow and shoal channel ; off its southern extreme is the small islet of Terapa. Taboguilla, 710 ft. high, also well cultivated, with some islets off its S.W. extreme, forms the N.E. island of the group, with a wide and deep channel between it and Urava, in the centre of which is a rock, said to dry 4 ft. at low water springs, with 8 and 14 fathoms close to. The Coast from Bruja Point to Chame Point, a distance of 16 miles, forms a shoal bay, with several outlying banks and rocky islets, and vessels bound to Panama should keep near the islands of Taboga, and not ajiproadi this shore within the depth of 5 fathoms. About one mile to the N.E. of Vique Cove, which is 5 miles westward of Bruja Point, is a lofty treble-peaked hill, called Cerro de Cabra, forming a conspicuous object to vessels bound to Panama, and frequently mistaken for Taboga by those coming from the eastward. Melones Island is a small rocky islet 2J^ miles to the N.W. of Taboga, with a rock above water, lying about half a mile to the northward of it. Chame Islu ■^, with Periqiie Rock, are of a similar nature, situated about the same distance southward of Taboga. Vallndolid is a large rock, nearly 2 miles to the S.W. of Chame Island, with 9 and 10 fathoms close to it. Cliame' Bay, at the head of which is a small river of the same name, is nearly GULF OF PANAMA— PARITA BAY. filled up by large banks, of which the largest is the Cabra Bank, lying in the middle, with Tabor Isle on it. On the southern side is Chamo Point, a sin- i;ular, low, woody promontory jutting into the sea, .5^ miles long by half a mile broad. Between this and Cabra Baak is a eonvenicnt harbour, 2 miles in ] igth by about three-quarters of a mile in breadth, with from 3 to 8 fathoms water in it, and from 16 to 18 ft. close to the beach of Chame Point. To the N.W. of the river is a high range called Sierro Caporo, and to the southward are the Cerro Chamo, a group of wooded hills. Otoqne and Bona, high and peaked, with Estiva Island and Jiedondo Rock, lying 6 miles to the S.E. of Chame Point, form a group similar but somewhat t^iualler than Taboga and Taboguilla, being cultivated, and having a con.sidcrable village, called La Goleta, in the bay on the western side of Otoque. Anchorage, in from 10 to 14 fathoms, may be found in any part of this group, and all dangers are above water. PARITA BAT, large and open to the eastward, is nearly 20 miles across, lying 4.5 miles to the S.W. of Chame Point. The coast between is a continuous beach, called I'laya Grande, in front of a low wooded bank. There is a depth of 4 to 3 fathoms at 2 miles off this beach, except S.E. by S. ^ S. of Ccrro Chamo, where there is only '^ fathoms nearly 7 miles from the land, and tlicncc extending to Chamo Point. To avoid this, vessels from Parita Bay should steer so as to pass about 2 miles southward of Bona, when they may steer up the bay, inside but nearer the islands than the shore. The mud flats are found again on the western side of Parita Bay ; but at Liso Point, on the South side of the bay, the beach again commences, and extends as far as Cape Mala, 38 miles to the S.E. hjuana Island, a little higlKT than the adjacent coast, and thus forming a conspicuous object, lies about 9 miles to the northward of Cape Mala, and 2 miles off shore. The island is steep-to, except at its South and F^ast points, with lo fathoms in the channel between it and the main. A reef is said to stretch to the N.E. of it. CAPE MALA, which forms the western point of entrance to the Gulf of ranama, is a low but cliffy point with outlying rocky ledges having deep water close to them. The land from the N.W. slopes gradually down to the sea at this point from a considerable distance, making the exact cape difficult to distinguish, unless the breakers are seen. On opening the gulf round this a strong southerly set is generally experienced, especially in the dry season. The PROVINCE of VERAGUAS, the western of the United States of Colombia, or New Granada, was but little known till the surveys of Capt. Kellctt and Capt. Jas. Wood, in 1848-9, and Capt. de Rosencoat in 1854-7, made us acquainted with its coasts. Of the interior we are still almost as ij;uoiaiit as were the early historians of Columbus. The relative poverty of the rerjinn has never attracted any attention, or raised any commercial pro- North Paci/ic. u V...... '■-fSaVV <^- yi,' 18 THE COAST OF COLOMBIA. i 4 y ■ ducts. The native population, chiefly Indian, does not exceed 50,000 in number. Some of these arc occupied during part of the year in collecting ))carls and pcarl-oystor shells, and also tortoiHc-shclls, for which one or two vessels annually visit the ditferent islands and harbours, of which that of David is the chief, the town being the capital of the province. In front of the coast is an archipelago, or rather range of islands, running generally parallel with it, and leaving a channel, 10 or 12 miles broad, within the four groups which they form. The coast itself abounds in excellent and spacious harbours, and throughout landing is easy and safe. There are few barred rivers or outlying shoals, but then there is little more than the vast jirimcval forest to visit. Los Frailes are two remarkable rocks or islets, the southern one of which is 112 miles S.W. i S. from Cape Mala. They arc 2} miles apart, N.W. by N. i N. and S.E. by S. ^ S., and are bold-to, with the exception of a reef extending about a cable from the N.W. point of the southern rock. They are a good mark for approaching Cape Mala. In leaving the Hay of Panama, the cape should not be approached too closely, as the current shifts from its easterly direction to the S.W. outside it. The coast trends to W. S.W. from Cape Mala, and at 13 J miles distant is the small island of Ilenado or Venado, lying off a projecting point named Haiti. Not far from this there is a commodious creek, according to native report, or river, accessible for vessels of any draught, having 10 or 12 fathoms de])th, and affording a sujiply of fresh water. The coast beyond this trends to S.W. for 16 miles to Puerocs Point, and then 27 miles W. by S., terminating in Point Mariato, from which it bears to the northward. The only outlying dangers are a shoal of 18 ft., lying 1^ mile off shore, at 2 miles E. by N. of Point Puercos ; and another reef, of some extent, a mile off shore, and 4 miles W.S.W. of Point Puercos. The rest of the coast is quite bold-to. Mariato Point is bold and bold-to, its S.W. extremity being in lat. 7° 12' N., long. 80° 52' 30" W. At 5 miles N.W. by W. from it is a small wooded island, Naranjas, which has deep water close outside it. Mariato Point is a good landfall for vessels from the westward bound to Panama ; the southerly current setting out of the gulf will be avoided by keeping under the land east- ward of it. The BAY of MONTIJO, 23 miles northward of Point Mariato, is an ex- tensive gulf, in front of which is the long and narrow island of Cebaco, which nearly encloses it to the southward, and the channel to the westward of it is pari'y occui)ied by the island Gobernador. The bay is thus completely sheltered, but unfortunately the depths inside ai"e so irregular, that it is useful only to vessels of small draught. There is a deep channel to the East of Cebaco, which shoals suddenly from 12 fathoms to 6, and then to 3 J fathoms, at 4 miles North of the I'-ast point of Cebaco. Keep along the East side of the bay, taking caie to avoid the roek Sun Juan, distant about \^ mile from 'i ., , ^<'II}A ISLAND. tl'e Jam], and also some others Ihwl . " o' Cebaco. pa^.i.,. „.. ,i^,,^,,, ^ "^3 " i he e .s another eJ,an„,, \„ t,., ™ ' channel i« narrower, and ;^;;';-' ^ l-'-ahle, because ,:';'"'• -tern entranee to the ty 'T" ''"""^''^ '' '"-h ^tn' T fathoms 'I'l • y " ^«^8sc should n^t « """ger. i„ n, ('UlJlA or Onihn „ •' - ^-- o.^ -r^arir ii ::;: -- --, ..n., . ,. ,^^,^ ^^ r "'"'^ ^""'"^ ---^ with . , «: : ;'-•""'--- ..e in^orin: fine season there are abundant str: J I'T'^'^' '^'^ ^'^^ -^"-''cd. I.,, ;-nd .ts shores, but it possesses l.f '" "" ^ -'-neho 1 '"vounto resort in early times as V ,""' ^'"^'"'^y «« ^^^^^'d It 1 'nolestatiim ■,,,,] U r ^'^''^^^^ conii,,,, to iu h ™^ ^ ott the shore, is a dan-oron^ r f "'"'""'^y' a»d outside of this -m •, ^'- I N. 5i miles from iC^ 7> "' ''""'' •^■^"^'^ ^^'^^ ^-X h ^ ," " distance S.W by W f v "'"'' ''"^ J'^'"'^' <^nd of IJiea. ' , ^"'""^ -.1 other r^ Ii^7f ,^-'^ the S,, JTc^'^^ ^'^ theNW . t, but thfy n,.e oi,„,.„ , '"'^- i hero are "iei\.\V. extreniA <•<■ *i • > • ''oove water // Ima. Bay, „„ ,t, • -N- r-.. i. .he pri,»,„,„ „„,,„,' ° ,'»""'•""''« ".ilea N.w.f„,„i,,,,,,, "uet between the reefs nvt,,.. i- '-"•irftHl Jigainst. 'I'h,,,.,, • ., V .a.„„, w„..„ ,,,„,, ,„;^'i;« .^. .e,,. . K ,,,,^ „, i"tis, Umbo ^yjjj, j^ jl' ■ Ml X * ' * . tt * iibtAf- ».>*• ''^^Hj 1. . '''. A '.i- ' I 4t . 'II !^ ;« ¥ til i 80 THK COAST OF COLOMIilA. point of very considerable iiiii)ortancc, ns iiironlinp; means of .shelter, and also water, near to the principal field of action iigiiinst the iSpanish galleons. In the account of Commodore Anson's voyage, the whole island is described to a of u very moderate heijrht, exceptinp one part of it (near the N.K. end), and its surface covered with a continual wood, which preserves its verdure all the year round. Tigers, deer, venomous snakes, monkeys, and iguanas exist upon tlie island, n statement repeated by Capt. Colnett (1794). In the surrounding sea, alligators, sharks, sea-snakes, and the gigantic ray abound. Pearl oysters, which attracted the pearl fishers from Panama, were also to be gathered from the surrounding rocks, and the huts of these men and heaps of shells still existed at Colnett's visit. On the N.E. part of the island, Anson describes a cascade of very great natural beauty, a river of clear water, about 40 yards wide, rolling down a rocky declivity of nearly 150 yards in length. Capt. Colnett, who was here in February, 1794, anchored in Damas Bay (I'ort de Dames) in 19 fiithoms, the North point of the bay in a line with the North i)oint of Cebaco Isle, bearing N.N.E., the watering place N.W., aiul the South point of Quibo S.E. by S. He says : — " Quibo is the most commodious place for cruisers of any I had seen in these seas, as all parts of it furnish plenty of wood and water. The rivulet from whence we coincted our stock was about 12 ft. in breadth, and we might have got timber for anv purpose for which it could have been wanted. There are trees of the cedar kind a sufficient size to form masts of a ship of the first rate, and of the quality which the Spaniards, in their dockyards, use for every purjjose of shii)building, making masts, \c. A vessel niiiy lay so near the shore as to haul off its water; but the time of anchoring must be considered, as the flats run off a long way, and it is possible to be deceived in the distance. The high water, by my calculation, is at h.alf-past three o'clock At fidl and change the flood comes from the North, and returns the srnie way, flowing 7 hours, and ebbing 5, and the j)er])endlc'ular rise of tiie tide 2 fathoms." Hicaron, which lies olt' the S.W. side of Coiba, 4 miles di.stant, is of a trian- gular form, 3} miles long, and well wooded. Its higliest point, 830 ft., is on the Fast side, an emincnee that commands a prospect all over the adjacent islands, and the coast beyond. Oft' its South point is Ilivarila, a small islet, covered with cocoa-nut trees. The channel between Hicaron and Coiba is of very irregular deptli, but is safe and practicable. Runcheria, or Quibito, is a small island 1^ mile long, and 1 J mile off the N.E. po,-.t of Coib,i. To the S.S.E. of it is a sandy beach, where there is good anc .'ornge, sheltered by a round and high islet. Wood and water are easily procured. A Frenchman formed a small settlement here on the South side. The channel between Coiba and Quibito is rocky and uneven, but is apparently safe. Afuera, or Caiial Island^ 4 miles N.E. i E. of Rancheria, is about midway between the North point of Coiba and the shore. It may bo passed on either ^ BAKU it:t;:^'°-^-^'-»"X^^^^^^^^ '™ '^^ l^aibour. It ;. <... ., '' '"'>' '« well natned m„i • opposite the ;Uh :"/■•'"• ^^ ^^•- ^••■- 1 : t; "V"^"^"* ""'"-' p-nce. «a.i:tr : ,?^^- «'-'^ that"; ;ir;^'^''- -a sheltered, wood and JorT ," ''' P""" ^^ i« easy of ' '"'" '■"" --1 -ay be hove d^o: "'''"'' ""'^ ^^''^ P-u T 1"""' ^^^^^^ it was surveyed bvl Z "^ '''""'•'' '^o"^'- wUhou fi ' '° ""'"''' *^«' « aI«o examined „,'"'" f!^^^-*^ ^^^''cher i„ hTtri " '"^"^^• I^elcher says : J" i^ '^/^^*- '^'^ i^-eaeoa, inte ";;".'' ""'^ '' ^- another of our .f„r ''' "^ ^'^'•^'J^. 1839 wo ^ '^"^"- ^''^ i''J>-ard ' our stations in I8'i7 ir ° moved on to li,.i.- i, «ent to clear the land but,, ^' ^^'" '>> -'th a fe. O " """^'* ' ' *" '^ -'nd I'J f..M ^^"« depth -• be.::^ K.t^ f'-'f^ '■^^'^-t po.;; :^\ ^-.^ --le withm l -''> ^ong; off its N W : ': "*""^'''- '^'^'^- is rath" ''' ''■ ^•^"'. '^ -other, ^„, 1 •' • ^""' '-^ '^ --^Ji island. />„ J ''" '""^ ^'-n half a % to th we tttd rr^"""" ^^^^- Honda into tT' "l ''' «°"''' P-nt -tensive. T 'I,^ ^'^ ^t"'' '^'^^ ^<^ *^^ -tj , I^'^"^^^"-' ^^''-/^. ;-d of the entrance'is ^2 "'? '""^ ^^ ^^ ''^ Kast. 1 ^ ' " "'"^° Woat gives the .l...,,---^^^^^^ ,,. ^^^ I 1 t ■• ^'^ ii Si- ' i^ i 1 ! 'ifen ,• r ' •j:i TlIK (OASr OF COLOMMIA. 1 t 'I ,8 'H In cotnini; to this hnrbnur, ult»?r hiiving mailo out Afiicin in mid-cliannel off it, the islund Mrdidor will he neon. It is of moderate height, and must bo steered for until the sn\nll islet, I'apora or Truehn, is made out, lyiu}; close to the South point of Medidor. There is a jjiissaire on fither side of this islet, hut it is hest to leave it to port, as the northern ciiiiniud is narrowed bv the rocks otf Medidor. Then steer for Guarida Point, or rather more to south- ward. The entrance to the bay is easy, although it does not make out well at a distance. To the right, close in-shore, is Svntinela hlet, which should be avoided on account of the rocks which surround it ; and to the left is Point (iuarida, which is (juitc clear, and may be ranged close-to. When past this point, bear up to port, and make for a round wooded islet, C/itnr/te, lying in the N.N.W. part of the bay, aiul anchor in 11 to 14 fathoms, muddy bottom, sheltered from every wind. The bay m separated into two parts by an island named 'Jalon, to the West of the an' norage. The only population of the bay consisted of a few Indian families on this island, f'-om whom eggs, fowls, cocoa-nuts, and bananas, were j)rocurcd at .^ ehoap r.;[e. They are also the most expert turtle catchers, and will furnish a large quantity daily. Fish also is abundant. To the eastward of the island the extensive mud-hanks, which uncover at low water, leave onlv a narrow space for anchorage in 5^ fathoms, but this is unimportant, as there is nothing to induce a vessel to como into this part of the bay. 'J'he only dangers to point out are a rocky reef a little above the line joining Point Penot and Pueril Islet, at IJ cable from the last; and another reef at the same dis- tance North of Guarida Point, on which there is only 8 ft. water. The Obliyado's anchoiage was with Point Guarida S. 40^' W., Sentinela Islet S. U^ W., Kspuela Islet, S. 83^ E., Chlnche Tslet, West point N. lb" W. Capt. dc Ko.seneoat made the position of this anchorage of the t)b]igado, op- posite Pueril, to be in hit. 7" 44' 52' N., long. 81-^ a 1' 0" W. High water, on full and change, at .•J" 30'" ; tides lise 1'2 feet. Water is abundant, and there is a stream, the Arroyo del Cobrc, in the S.E. part of the harbour, which can be ascended high enou^-h in a boat to get good water ; but the most convenient jdace is to the K.^.V. of the above anchorage, where there are two streams, which, with a hose, wdl fill the casks rapidly. Wood is abundant everywhere, the forests are magiiificent. Leaving liahia Honda is as easy as its access. Keep on the side around Point Guarida, avoiding Sentinela Islet. The best ume is in the morning, when the winds which jjrecode the sea breeze come from East to N.E. 'J'hese ore sometimes so light that you must tew out by your boats. Having doubled Point Guarida, steer for Trucha, leaving it to starboard, the same with Medidor, and not attempting to pass through the narrow and rocky channel which separates the latter from the land. The COAST beyond IJahia Honda is a succession of bays of different extent, among which the three principal are Monita, del liosario, and del Pajaro. 1 lie 1 Then oj)j)osi from A no she Bull which round i or Cab, Muerto, that of the souti dcbouel in the fi and has found, wh Tiie nav North of 2 "u nces, th( •'^outh end rently form ^orth (^nd , Neffrifo lu„ The it in a calm. V "■•'cky patches. PUEBtO NU ^n his book he si the mouth of the ""'c Island, in A following its bran «»all village, situ; first appointed tlu about a miles i„ i^ 1 ., "I'M .-. «.,.,o»,vr„ r:"*:' f™"- ".« ^ ^ ,.„,•„, .. , '"»'«». "hio, „'::," :"'"""' "^-o,, i " : .'""• -'W .1,0 ,,/J •"'' !■•"« 16 to l» «,,, '""'• "' '••'.i«n /,„„, i, ,, ,,;, ■•;'••' ™" ""Iv k. „»o,l f-™-. >vh„ ,i.. ,;t::: -"';■■;■ '" -h Of . ;;: 7 "°;" 'V".-..... /» t "ff" this coast T. ' '*'' "■'■"' """KTOUS ,.n , ^'"- '-tic a.Kl pearl, ""7' "" '' '^"-'^ % r ^rtec f ^'""^ "-'-red ^-"»^- The'i.,.lT '■ ''^' '"""- — > gran ^ ''' '"' ^'■^''--n ^--^ the depth, h ; r; """"•■''"^■•^- '^'^-'v .;;;"" ^•^'•^- ^•^'^ '-'' "«;- .h„.,er ";-d fro. the wreck of' ^ T ^ '"""' ^"'"^ "^ t M ' ''"^ ''' '''^' " '" ■'' «"'«. Vessels si n ''' ^'"> ^^ ^''-"'V'er wll, ^ ^ '"'• ^^ ^'■«'' «« ^"oJ^y patches. ''""''^ "«' P^«s between tL ""' ''"''''^'^ "» to ' '"■« book he says • » n '"7"^'"'^ ''^ ^ir K^ward TJ , k ^ -'"^ of the S nC r' ""'^ ^'"^ ^'-brNue : t v" ''^ *''^^'"^- '■^ ^«'-d, in Mar f ;r ^ "^'^^'^ ^^-vo, at the i "' '""J"^^' ^«^«, at „ s^' ''""ated on tho ir first appointo,? fl, ^"''-''' So J i'>'uiicu tliesenf-nf™ — 6"' "'/lere thr. c . — "'" ** l< \i- ' •*'•' t ^ i. I I' 1 I *! f i ^1 i n IWI m JUi (1^ ,1i i3 .1 ■I*. 1,1 I 24 THE COAST OP COLOMBIA. Three larger streams discharge themselves into the main basin at the western end of this is! > id, where the apparent great, entrance is sittiated, but so studded ■rfith rocks and shoals as to be unnavigable lor anything larger than boats. It is, in fact, an extensive archlpehigo, as most of the regions towards the Chiriqui territory will be found to be on future examination. " A plan waa made, which will prove interesting to those who may visit this port, for refuge or refit ; but water cannot be procured in any quantity. It may probably be found by digging welis. The natives generally appeared alarmed at our presence, nor could we induce them to bring o(F supplies. Had our visit been i)rolonged, no doubt this would have been dispelled ; as, after wo fell in with a negro who understood English, they appeared anxious to sell pigs, poultry. &e. " Tiieir principal article of trade is the sarsaparilla, that of this neighbour- hood being esteemed of superior quality. T)ie stveam runs fresh at some miles up, but we did not either meet it or succeed in finding the town. Sugar-cane of good quality was offered ; and tortoise-shell, one of their articles of trade, can be procured at the season." Sir Edward Belcher's survey was published 10 years later, and the place was again surveyed in 1854 by Capt. de Rosencoat, who in his chart or directions takes no notice whatever of his English predecessor, as is indeed the case throughout the French work. It would si^em to have been scarcely necessary for the two nations to have surveyed this uncommercial region twice within so few years. What follows is derived from Capt. de Rosencoat's pamphlet, adapting it to Sir Edwiird Belcher's survey. From whatever direction Pueblo Nucvo is approached, it is easily made out by the two hills or Morros, the Cuyado Hills, 300 and 400 ft. high, on the South side of the entrance, which, at a distance, make like two islands. A conspicuous sugarloaf hill, about 5 miles North of the entrance, is also a good m.ark, as it stands alone, and is 550 ft. high. On a nearer view, two low and w^ooded islands come in sight, Silva de A/uera, the Magnetic Island of Sir Edward Belcher, and Silva de Tierrn, or Silla Island, which lie E. bj' N, and W. by S., nearly 3 miles apart, in a line with the entrance of the bay. The entrance of the river is formed by a low mangrove island, Insolita, as before stated, which Capt. de Rosencoat calls Porcada. It is about 4 miles long N.W. and S.E., and has a former channel to the river to the N.W. of it, but this is now only passable by boats. The southern entrance is close around Cape Cayado, between that point and a spit projecting a mile to the W.S.W. from Eelitre Point, the South extreme of Porcada, and which, as it uncovers at low water, acts as a breakwater to the channel. Cape Cayado is so named from its supposed resemblance to the form of a bisho))'s pastoral staff, or a shepherd's crook, and has 8 to 10 fathoms close up to its base. The channel here is not more tlian '2^ cables wide, but the channel is straight, running nearly East and West, with to 10 fatlinms tluoughout. II: •H' It PUKBLO NUETO. necessary to hav( 'f "^ "^ 'l"»«er of a ,nile d.e'vi^^Z^lZ T'T ""' *'" ''""'^ ^''''^ to e„t.. ;'- or roc^ in the middle of .he „ . ZnT; ^"" ^'" ^^ ^ -''" -u , Jcrdono of ,le Eosoncoat IC > ! ' "" ^''^''"'^ of Uelcher nr ., orcada. when you may anchor in 7 to ot. "^ "'"'' ^'" ^^'^^ -,,e of ' '.^ best to enter M-ith the first of the fl 1 "T' ''"' ■^"'"^'-^- ''"«on. P, ,,,, I"-"^, -„, .,,., , „o, ,,, 1 ' ^ ^ - then the ed,e. of the ba:^ ^ fjuno chj,se to Intrusa; but tho I . ^"^'^' ^^''t^'r. Yo„ m-u- il.eresKlont Indians say that li.o M-ost"r J « '^""'^' '^^ ^••''"t--o..s. J"ne and October, send i„ a heavy J at ,^"^' "''''"' ^''^^ ^-')"-^ between «'-' - n.ay be found in the riJiZ^l^.'^^^l'^^^^^^^^^ ' '^"^ "' ^'^ ease a« b.,h up as Pa,o or r...> A/.w' f" ^^'''''^ ^'"''"t, and, if „c..,,sa , r.,..cal fr„ie, „,„,. ,„ „,,,„.„^„ - ;;»^' ^ ^omc ..,.,,, f„,,,, ^ "7"' »•'"•■'■ *■"■«■» « ".. na„„. A, „"':'" '*■' '" "" '-sen i. „„ (,, «.'p'"f .o .,.,. „w,, „,,,,; ,;;V ;;,;;■;' ,^« "»""»...-. „,,„:,„; ' "(-W town, has about 2 0nn ,•n^ 1-- b""iance. Ihi}i",)n„ii :'" --■'« •<•• ...0 .....re, L ~ ,. ;;; - "■:"<"-> '"-. «., „, ,„ i,™ Ao.M /V..>V. '"•'- "■'-•' -^tend. f.,n. ,,« North Jde.' f i 4 ) ? '^ •.' >* ' fell 1 rui f I;: l\ I ! i 2 ! ■; W m 5 J "' I , E II m ■ j I'' ■ t 36 THE COAST OF COLOMBIA. From the northern entrance before described, on the N.W. side of which is the low island Espartal, the coast trends to W. by N. for 21 miles, for the first 18 of which it is composed of narrow sandy beach, behind which is a line of forest, intersected here and there by the mouth of a river, which are rccoy;nisa- ble afar off by the whitened and bare trunks of the mangroves. About a dozen miles inland is a range of hills, the last steps of the Pacific Cordillera, between which and the sea is a wooded plain. Beyond the above limits the hills approach the sea coast, which is otherwise quite safe to approach by the lead at a distance of 2 or 3 miks; there are some conspicuous red cliflTs hereabout. The coast then turns abruptly from the San Lorenzo River to S.S.W. for 4 miles, forming a peninsula, off the S.K. point of which are the Benado Isles, which consist of cue larger island near the point, and three smaller on one bank farther to the eastward. Point OJo of De Rosencoat (the El Juvo Point of Capt. Wood), 3 miles West of the eastern Benado Islands, is the south- western extremity of a peninsula which forms the eastern limit of Chiriqui Bay. SECAS ISLANDS lie nearly on the meridian of 82° W. at 14 miles oflTthe coast. The group consists of three principal islands, with numerous rocks and islets, one of which is 5 miles northward of their southern edge. With one exception the islands are quite safe, and they will afford shelter to a small ves.sel, and several of them are accessible, but there is no fresh water, as their name indicates. A vessel becalmed or at nightfall might seek shelter safely here when approaching David Bay in 12 fathoms, sandy bottom. At 2 J miles N.I'], by K. of the South end of the largest island is aroc/c awaskixt high water, but which is (juite uncovered at low water, called La Bruju. There is. a wide- spread tradition that at the period of the Spanish conquest, some Indian refugees buried some treasures on the northernmost part of the largest island, and this is in some measure borne out by the discovery of several ancient implements and other objects. The Chiriqui coast, as this part is called by Capt. de Rosencoat, is fronted by a large group of islands, and with the numerous streams to the North of them, forming an intricate archipelago, to the North of which, by a tortuous channel, the ap])roaches to the town or city of David are found. The various islands and channels are so united by almost a continuous shoal, nearly 20 miles in extent from East to West, that, as above said, the only safe access is from the eastern end of the labyrinth.* — Captain Wood. * The charts ami directions for this part afTord an ciamplo of what should be avoideil. The island WI18 well and carefully survoyid by CommaudLT Wood in 181S, but this lino chart, with all its detiiils, was not published till thirteen years later. In the mean time thn French officers in the Ohliyado, comniandeil by Capt. liouxo de Rosencoat, also surveyed it, in 1851. The French survey h.is not the ^ligtlll■bt iilliision to its predecessor, and these two charts differ entirely in their nomenclature, &c., so that t'apt. de Uusencoat's directions uro i Si ni know two s a lice Fiu a larj steep- seen at four j)i A su joining which cessfull^ In coi Monitas board lia ward, tal for the >S TJiese arc ag.iinst tl; Tliis rock half tide, j (loos the li fatiioms is San Josp, J good anchc when the S Islands. At the 1 AV.N.W. , to West, Jl MiDia, Cart North of thi to the westv to David. 'J is ))robablo t El Jueo Poii another calle alnioBt unintelli "tiiKiiidu in th iluections, givin :) s \ ""^« ^oc/l (the Widow) lies -u 1 a large flat rock, with a reJf ! , ' ^° *^^ southward of El T «-p-to on all sides hair /"'"^' '^^'^ « '"''e to thc-E s P 7' '"' '^ -n at a distance b;;:!/;:" ' ''^ '' ^^^hcns all ..^,f i^ \^ '« 'i"'^^' four pinnacles are u„co^'7''° "' '""'« ^'--^^ "po u"; "^' '^ . ----issra:::-:j:^-visihi^tL;h:atj^' "^ -- jo.n.ng the West end ofVinda lill . '^'^'^ *" ^he West of th r which would place it abo.^f • Lf, ^"'^^ ^'^ «-as. abeut .idlf^e . r ward f.t ^ '^ ^° ^^^'n i^ cleared r> • *"" °" ^he «tar- At the head of the bav .« „ i- ■*'o»t unintelligible when usoi with Canf W T " - 1* 28 THE COAST OF COLOMBIA. if '1. ■li 8 1; Hi 1 i I I {' vH 1 1 I m a r ' which are numoious herds of cattle, which can be purchased direct from the owners. The I]oca Chica, or entrance to the river, hes between Vcntana and Saino. It may he known by some rocks on the extremity of the former, bein^ pierced through by tlie sea at its base, so as to have thj appearance of a window or vcntana. The j)!issage is very narrow, and in taking it keep close to Sai'no, and • guard against Lavandera Rock, which is quite covered at high water, lying 1^ cable oti' VeiUana. The water is very shallow within the point, and is quito unadapted for sea-going vessels, and cannot be taken without a pilot. Within, the anchorage is called El Pozo (the well), and from this can be seen the outer houses of the village of Boca Chica (or the Puerto de San Lorenzo of Captains Kellett and Wood). It consists of about a score of ranchos or huts, surrounded by orange trees and bananas. Fresh provisions, as butcher's meat, poultry, fruits, &c. , can be bought here cheaply. The watering-place is on the North shore of El Pozo, but it is not conve- nient, though the water is good. Capt. de Eosencoat made the sjimly bay on the South side of Saino in lat. 8° II' 52" N., long. 82^ 12' 8" W. The tides were regular, the greatest rise was 11 ft., the least 6 ft. ; high water at 3'' 15". David is the chief town of the province of Chiriqui, and lies about 25 miles from the sea by the eastern chaimel, or 10 miles by the western one, and to go thither in a boat a pilot is indispensable on account of the intiicacy of the channels. It stands in a fine plain, and is surrounded by cultivated lands, which extend as far as the extinct volcano of Chiriqui. The popxilation is about y.flOO, and it has a regular trade with Panama, sending thither by some suuill vessels pigs, poultry, eggs, vegetables, &i.e. The cattle are generally diiven to the market. The situation of David has some importance from the fact that it stands on the narrowest portion of the American isthmus, and on ascending the Chiriqui volcano both oceans can be seen at once. An ordinary cart road has been pro- posed as the modest substitute for a railway, w^hich should lead from Almirantc Bay on the Atlantic, a good liarbour, to that just described. Another feulur(! of importance is the existence of a coal-fidd, which extends nearly across. A ])ortion taken from Muertos Island, near the entrance of the river, was analyzed by Professor Eogers, and gave good results. Palenque Island lies otl the South side of Isla Brava, on the West side of David Bay. The shoal water which limits the bay trends to the E N.E. and W.S.W. from tliis island. Off its S.E. point is Deer Island, the S.W. point of which was made by Capt. Wood to lie in lat. 8"^ 10' 13" N., long. 82° 13' 40' W., but later authorities place it in long. 82^ 14' 50". PARIDAS ISLANDS are a group at the western extremity of those do- scribed as lying ])arallel to the coast and the chain of mountains which runs through the isthmus. They consist of one large island, I'arida, about 1 1 miles in circumference, at the ^^'cst end; another, much smaller, Bolatio ov Vvhtuo, ; lie,' the mIic P a ffoi \.E. smai; wher reach .'•leer t/ian TJie P.irida the lar Baraeo way bei ill Capt, Chtm iiig to tl Cruz. 'J channel i is xery n; From ; which is ;: ^ 1 miles, ; heavily an the hla S, lii-.ua. C)i Although t the French was the on! The Coas miles wide. (■ Hilled like I «(.'stenimost tiaues a regu wsrd. getting '' — •» U,c™. " '""« ""•■ »»»" -•' ■!.. pearl fi.l^l" JJie islands which run tn, J t'le largest, the others are uL.. . '■'"'° ^'^ ^hc S.E. of it • f j, : ^'"-o are some roeks,"^ ! 1 "^ ^' three-quarters of a „ i^; TT ; -y between Bolano a;dtn "r f ' '""^''"- '' '^ ""'^ E N E ^ >" ^ "" ^" ^ V. Wood's ehart '"^ '''' '^^^"^ ^ ^ ^'-er called z't ^I'^'j' . «--^«yisattheS.A7endofP •, ;;-o to the N.W. from it. southe:^,!^:;!'' ""'^ '^ » ^- of islands streteh - IV watenng-p,,,, i„ Chi^ ii "'"'""^* °' ^-'"^^^ « oalleH " e!<.mnel around the Xorth end , f , ^ '' '" "« ^"^-K- part Th '- ;«'. -»„., .,„„,„ ::;' ""•"*.. ^« 0..H. .„., :, :^,^^- .. « "" '-• "-them shore of the bay ' l!'™'""''**^'^ '" I'oint liurioa '^"^'^■. but there is sii.l * i ^ ^'"^' ^^'^^rs Piedri P; ":.... V,^ .,'"'■ f""' '» ">■'» Nor.., „,„■,;."?■/'""■«"■"»»..,. ,1.0 . t t.'. <* , ( , "' ii raasffiMtfiiM ■ I Hi I u 1 • . ' ^ f ':\ ■ if. n 4 30 THE COAST OF COLOMBIA. The Ladronos (or Zcdzoncs of Colnett) nre two islets or rocks, motlcrntcly high and harren, lying 14 miles S. by W. from the S.W. point of I'midii. They arc very steei)-to, and 70 fathoms was found close to their southern edge. They are quite safe in all directions, c-icept to the North, where some rocks lie a mile off. At 1 miles North of the Ladrones (8J miles according to the chart) is a rei)orted dangerous reef, which does not even show at low water, when there is OJ ft. water over it. It is said to lie with the West side of Parida bearing N. 9'^ E., and the East side of the Ladrones bearing South. Montuosa is a small lofty wooded island, completed isolated, 26 miles S.E. by S., southerly, of the Ladrones, and 22 miles West of Coiba. It is safe, except some rocks to the East of it, and is a good mark for approaching the coast. A reef extends about 3 miles north-westward of it. Colnett says : — " It rises to a considerable height, and is 5 or 6 miles (?) in circumference, its summit covered with trees ; the greater part are those which bear the cocoa-nut, which gives it a very pleasant appearance ; but islets and breakers extend off its East and West ends, to the distance of 3 or 4 miles. The bottom is rocky on the South side, as is the shore near the sea. There is a beach of sand behind some little creeks that run in between the rocks, which makes a safe landing for bouts. Here we went on shore, and got a quantity of cocoa-nuts, with a few birds. The S])aniards or Indians had lately been there to fish on the reef for pearls, and had left great heaps of oyster-shells. There were a great plenty of parrots, doves, and iguanas ; and it is probable that other refreshments might be obtained, of which we are ignorant. At all events, it may be useful to whalers or cruisers, by offering a place where the sick may be landed and cocoa-nuts procured, whose milk will supply the want of water." POINT BURICA, or Burrica, makes afar off like an island with three summits equally elevated and distant from each other ; on ncaring the cape another low point is made out which seems at first like an island, but is after- wards seen to form part of the point. To the southward of the point breakers extend for a mile, and terminate in this direction by a large, high and isolated rock, which forms an outer beacon. The cape may be seen in clear weather 35 miles off, and is thus an excellent landfall for ships coming either from eastward or M-estward. The territory of Jhirica, aecor(iing to Mr. J. II. Smith (1854), does not belong to the general government of the United StJites of Colombia, but is exempt from some of the imposts. It extends from the Guanuvano const, on the East side of the Burica peninsula, to the Ilio Claro, which falls into the Golfo Dulce. The coast between is an extensive region of cocoa-nut trees, 21 to 25 miles in length. But this thinly populated and uncivilized region has but little claim to exact political or social divisions, and its nomenclature and inland fealuics arc alike vaguely known. The exclusive claim of these stales to t its T cove Indii near is a p veyed beyoni the ¥r ing dir J lulas . . COSTA T?rr'i *« the trnnM-t route novos. th ■ u ^^e Coast W ,^ t-- 'i^^ene. '"^'^ -^-^^ ,.,„, ^„^, ^^ J"d.an vill„,,es on the .,,,1 , ,1 '' "'"'-' "" P'«cc.« of i«; ' ""^ '^ '"^. "",1 -'• ^"e e„t.nee of th G , J ^j"''^- '— that t^V"'^ -'^- ^•"".• •■•' » P'ojection called P.^.tT P '' '^' ' °'- « '»■' s "11."' ^''''''""". ^p-"^d Point riatana, „s I' r "'""'""'^ ■^"'vov of tl "' ""* ''^^« -"- .^'-' f-neh corvette Z ":. "'^^ '^.^'P^' -„« made ' ; c , r;'"" '-^-'s "'^' '''-ctf„„.s are chie«v7 ''^' '" '''''' ""d fro,„ if ^ '^'' ''"'^^"'". '" ^""- ^« ^- the ch:?;;'^- J'; -t het.ee;: P rr"^" ^'- ^"'W- TK . ^- ^<^STA RICA fhe state of Costa R; • "■""'»■ of .1,0 infc.r °"';" f '«'"«• whiol, i„ol„.,,' » ,''"""" f„„„,„, '1.0 „,i„f ,■„,,,,(,■ «"""""» 'mpo,t.„e„ '»«■■ P«<».oe^ eo,„ "off "■"'•^ "'« 'o„., If .t""- """ «■"■ ■iiroo,i„„r ,;""" """■-'-' portion of C t .- " "^"•^'^'^' ^'v- "''•' P''P'.Ia.i„„ ., ,^, ". M,v a„ ave: ,,, ,,, w^ 32 THE COAST OF COSTA RICA, KTC. 200,000. In 1882 the vnlue of the exports from this state amounted to about iT/iO.OOO, coffee being the chief article. The GULF of DULCE lies 30 miles to the N.W. of Burica Point. But very little was known of it till in 1849 a concession was made to a French company, and in 1850 a plan of it was made by M. Louis Cheron, and again in 1852, when its shores and capabilities were examined by the officers under Capt. de Lapclin. From this it would appear to be one of the best points of the old Spanish territory for European colonization, considering its fertility, healthiness, and safety of its navigation. The gulf is recognisable at a great distance. Its outer points are well marked, and according to the chart arc 15 miles apart. East and West, but the distance is reported by several observers to be not more than 10 miles. Cape Matapalo, on the West, is the South extremity of the peninsula and of the Cerro de Sal si Puedes. It is high, steep, and covered with trees, with some reddish coloured land-slips. About a mile E.S.E. of it is an isolated rock 10 or 12 ft. high, easily seen in all directions. Platanal Point, the eastern point, is the South end of a promontory formed by the chain of mountains which separates the low lands of Burica from the plain of the Rio Goto. This promontory is terminated to the North by a round-toj)pcd peak, covered with trees, rather higher (2,329 ft.) than thoso near it. This hill will indicate the Pnnta del Banco. All the shores of the entrance are clear and free from danger ; but in coming hither it is well to make Cape Matapalo, as the only inhabitants are on the West side, at the Punta Arenitas, and on this side are also convenient anchorages in case of being becalmed during the ebb, as throughout the gidf, except in the Rio Goto Bay, the depths are 20 and 30 fathoms at 2 to 4 cables from the shore, and then deepening to 50 and 100 fathoms. The outer portion of the gulf runs in a North and South direction 22 miles, with a breadth of 16 miles ; beyond this it runs to N.W. for 25 miles to the foot of the Cordillera, where it is 10 milc.i wide. From Point Matapalo to the Rio Eincon at its N.W. end, an extensive plain extends to the slojiing foot of the Cerro de Sal si Puedes. The shore is all low and wooded. At 5 miles N.N.E. of Matapalo Point is Punta del Sombrero, and 3 miles further that of Tigrito. Off these two points are some rocks above water, those off Sombroio extending half a mile, and off Tigrito three-fourths of a mile. These are tlio only dangers in approaching Punta Arenitas. PUNTA ARENITAS,* 9 miles beyond Punta del Tigrito, appears to be low * Punta Arenitas is culled Punta Arenas (Sumly Point) on some charts, but tho distinc- tion is here made that it may not be confused with the more impoitunl Punta Aron;is, iho chief port of the republic, in the Gulf of Nicoya. Some later information concerning Punta Arenitas, and other parts of tho const, is taken from the French " Instructions Kautiques sur Ics Cotes Ouesl liu CVutre-Ameriiiuo, ct liu Moxique," by M. A. I'liilhc,", 1871). mil exc the fori ited to about I'UNTA AREN7TAS. and entirely covered with wood Th. •>, '''^ tremnyofthe point J.„,s,, eon destroved."^''''''-'"^'-'^^ on tl,o .. '■'I'out 400 in number remnv , 7 ^ ^ "" '''"'"'^l^'-'ke, and the fn. ''■- "e>v vill,,,e err " '''°' ^ '•"•'' ^^-th c f t , """"^' l)ank.whieh„.;tial "^''- ^* '^ ^'^'^'o Kast of """t' "--"ning • P'Xt'allydne.sat low water- h. "^ P"'"t « a coril ^cables, and it i. twice that len-^N; '"?"^^^'^-'''' ^'''^ and AvCt ^ -ecu. beat occasioned b, the': ' V" '" ^"■'^--- -^ -oi o ^~ ":^;:?-- - - - -t .:;:r t -oraJ: S * F „f I ? P'""' *" bear W bv V i v "'^*'"' "^'"age , , , """ *"«' nnchora-o North nf ♦; 'athoms, bottom -rreen -k. bear to the West, steerin, fl ' ", ;'%P'»"*' ^'-ing p.,,ed ,,,;';;; some large trooa ,„;*i , . * " estcro for crpot^ ^- .• " from .h. ,Cc :j'* '»"'»""• ""Uom of ;,,°XZ " T' ""'' ''"I> theNiirtl, ,:f,l,. ^° °°"™>mic.TO will, ,],„ .„ '° "'" '"■'I it is '!.". you « h' f "'"'* "' "«• «'-.« of , 1' h '"•■''"' """ '•"'' •» 'J'lie North r *<=. throughout "'"'^ "ton* f:::rK,:t^""^"'°™-^ v.h.„o.cof.He oo,a„ '^^i '.rl'' ij • i "^ 'mA r i iii I' ■I. I ! !■!' !i ;l 'I i 1 1 H II- "I 34 THE COAST OF COSTA RICA. The Oolflto ontrnnpo is nhout .1 rabies wide, nnd the pnflsagc in mid-rlinnncl l)etween the higli and wiU-maiked point to the North, nnd the long nnrrow sandy tonpie to the S.W., hns a depth »f !')i to fij fnihoms. This sandy neck divides the (Jolfito into two parts, in either of which you may anchor, but if in the eastern part it is not advisable to brin^ the houses on the point to North of AV.N.W. 'J"he Cioltito is a landlocked basin, where you may hcnve down and careen, but unfortunately in all seasons it rains nearly every day, nnd storms Hre frtMiuent. The watering-place is in the North part of this small gulf, but the casks must be filled at low water, and floated otF at high water. The Rio Goto, the largest stream which enters the Gulf of Dulce, is 7J miles U.K. of the Golfito, but is not navigable. From its mouth a bank exteiuls to the northward, which joins the tongue dividing the fJolfito. The coast is low, sandy, with n violent surf, nnd covered with cocoa-nut trees. To the southward of the river, the coast, though low, is clean as far as I'unta del Hanco, the S.K. point of the Gulf of Dulce, Pavon Bay lying between them. The Gulf of Dulce, during the fine season, is under the influence of the land and sea breezes (the terral and virazon), the latter blowing from S.E. to S.W. between 1 1 a.m. and sunset, when it is replaced by the terral blowing from North to West. Notwithstanding its hot and luunid cliniato, the gulf is con- 8idere«l healthy by the natives, but this can afford but little evidence of its effects ujjon Kuropoan colonists. The Coast beyond Cape Matapalo extends for 18 miles W. by N. J N. to the high and abruj)t Pun/a Sal si Piiedcs. It is a narrow and sandy beach, forming a large cocoa-nut grove, behind which rises the Cerro. It is very steep-to, for at less than half a mile off shore, in the shoalest part, there is more than 40 fathoms, a strong surf usually beating on this shore.* At the point Sal si I'uedes the Cerro a])pr()aches the beach, and at less than a mile off the point is r roimd bare rock, called C/ioncha Pelona, around which the water is very deep, but you cannot pass inside it. From Punta Sal si Puedes to Punta Llorona the distance is 13 miles in a N.W. direction. Nearly midway between these points is the Corcoiai/o, a large rock SS ft. high, at the outer end of a reef composed of rocks above water. The irregularity of the depth and the colour of the water, and the breakers off shore between the two points, seem to indicate danger near tlie land. Punta Llorona is high, steep, wooded, nnd formed of cliffs partially coverrd with a rich vegetation, and n cascade falls over one of its i)erpendieul;ir precipices. Several islets lie within a few cables' lengths of the point. San • Thfi name Sal si Puef/cs (get out if yoii ciiii), iipplii d lo tliis bonch, is saij to be dorive(i from the fact that the bongos which come here to lo.ul with cocoa-mil.s, thcjugh able to hinJ easily iil. times, hiivo great Uittieulty auj dettnUun in tiubaiking tluoujjh the lorruidublo Hurl'. th a cl grol K"H indi' wliol IVdr be Ci lengtj and iho coast iifif ;» • ^ "■ j r.. iroin l'iiii>„ r i K->'-a l.y a rock I"" ' ""''•^' '^-^'' ^""-1 ti.e ]' ,- T '" '" ''''- '"«'-t..tio' e„, u "r"^'"^ ''.V " --".Ic tree. 0„' L,"' *=*;" ^'-^-. '''■^ti... I^t' known bv a .. , "'""" °''^'ill« which ov . ^ *""■•'■"''' «"u J-^'th. moderatcl/hH;"" " ''''^ '^'^^ "^ San l>2o" ■ . • ''•" N-w. si. ; ; t"'^ "' """'"'^ •^"^'« towa^ :i? ""' "^^---'^e to do landin.. is oa v 7 '' "'"' '^"'"^' »^«»"na trees ^"^^-"""'^-d rock.. Q,. --».:::rr,: :: "- ^"- --«:::::'::::;: ""- "■= The fiio Ajiiia ,l..i , '"'""toJiouc, which '""- ^vhere wal::;; ^^f ^l' ^^-'^ "" I i?'< *i |ii^ I • Caldcru hii.s lucii pioiioi-cd ii« the I'liciCc toniiinu!, of ono f.ftlui iiitor-oociinii; coiuiiiuni- cntions. According to ii iLixrl, j)iiblii-hi;d in 18(iG, bj Mr. F. K;irtzt', CE., diructur of the jiublic works of Contu Kica, a wuygon road from sen to sea was jii8lconii)lited, starting from J'orl Limon, neiir Point HLiiico, fiu iiiilus South of Oreytown, on the AUuniic side, crossing tho siiininit 1«;vl1 nrnr Cartago. 5,118 ft. above llir sta, jiassingnoar San Jo.-6, tho capital, terminating at Caldura. It is a n.acadainirttd road, (ilJ ft. wide, with cut-stono bridges, and with ample width for constructing ii railroad ovtr ninch of its course. Siuco tli.it time a railway has betn cdislructed from I'oit Liuion to Kio Sucio, a distance of 72 uiilca, and about '2(i miles from 8an Jose. Two ciiudh have also been proposed to terminate in the Gnlf ofNicoya, ono from tho River Wan Juan, by the Hio San Carles, terminiiting near I'unta Arenas; and a second froii. tlio Lake Nicaragua, by the liio Nuio, and iht l!io TliiiIM; ijue, which tails into tho Loud of tho Ciulf of -Niiuya. .39 Soon off.,. p„„f„^, t,,^ ..^^ 35 '^vee„ those islands and tJ.at of S '' "^ '^"' ^'^-S-'ito-s, you « ill , . ^'''- called a,.,.^,,; •^^; ;7;two.,„,r.al,,ei.J,: ^^^t r to the Ea.st fomuHl hv L , '' ^'^J^»-'»'<1 JJclchor^ i. I'l ' "* t'i\> "'Pommun cation ujti, ,i ^ fathoms, fi„p ^.. , '"^ "•■l»ascs m,,. b„ „i„„ J _ ''''"S. l.c,„g ,„„„ „„„, „ ■"■'''' ■<- ::'■ '■ »■■" "» " -" to JiVs" :' ■„ Tw "■■•'■"■ '■■■ ''^ '""»-.;:..'; * ff thn lighthouse nr thp fown f, . ~ ' ' '• "-■■"*:"r:::;;::;::-;- - '"-"';'"" ' *»« "* ^t . I. ■H-t t ■ t ) :.1 40 THE COAST OF COSTA RICA. Tho tides arc rcgahii- at Punta Arenas ; their maxiiuuin velocity is 1 J knot, and tlie average 1 knot. Tlif cstaljiishnierit of the port at I'luita Arenas is 3'' lO"", and the range at .springs 10 ft. 2 in. Water is to be procured at the Rio liaranca, 7 miles to the Kast of the an- chorage. The bar can only be passed between half flood and half ebb. The i-iver must he asceivrled for a mile, xintil the boat grounds, before which the water is not fresli, a«d even then is sometimes not very good. On account of the tides, not more than two trips can be made in the day. Fresh provisions are abundant, but live bulloekn cannot be easily procured. Sea stock may frequently bo jiwocured, but not in large quantiti""* The healthiness of Punta Arenas is but cu«*purati>»'*> : fever is prevalent thr>ughout the }ear, attacking natives and strangers ahke, but milder in the fine season than in the opposite one. There is no coasting tr:ule in Coata Rica, as there is only one port open on the I'acilic. The earrying trade along tho coast <»f CVjjlral America is almost entirely monopolized by the Ainerwan Pacific Mail ateameris, in connection with the Panama Railway. Punta Arenas was a free port till January, 1861 ; sinc<> th*^» customs duties have been co leetod, but th(^ shipjiing dues have not been altered These arc tonnage dues and anchorage duos, each 25 cents per ton register, o dollars (£1) for license, 1 dollar per man for hospital dues, ^ real (3?/.) per ton light- house dues. Owing to till' putiiil filling upof the harbour, vessels are obii;::i'd to lie much farther off than formerly, and there is some trouble in landing &c.. at low water. A wharf was constructed in 1871, and is used for landing and shii)ping cargo, and there is also ;. small steam-tug for towing the hiunches. With steamers, which arrive ^ ail iiours of the day and night, much damage is done to the goods in the iannches by rain and spray. The lighthouse is not in good order, and much reliance shouW not be placed on it : the commander of the Chilian corvette Chacafntco. 1878, stated that the lights at the town were visible before that of the lighthouse was seen. On account of the deleriora- (ioi) of Punta Arenas, it was projK.>sed to remove the port to Tarcoles, a spot to tb* eastward, and nearer to the capital ; bu': it was ni>gatived by the ''on- gress m 18^4. The restrictive policy of the Government i>as much redticd th'' pri»sj)erity o^ the port, which is now little more than a depot. The COAST U) the north-westward of Cape HIaneo is almost unknown, ani. xionsiquently, should not be do.sely approafhcd. A very imperfect survey dt' it was mnde by Mr. Hull, R.N., in IH.y.t, and Cajjt. de Lajielin also made a aligl.i sKctch of it, but the two do not agree. The coa.st is liigh and wooded. and hill* o beach at wliite sand interriipted at intervals by reddish-coloured clitfs ;* tlie i,''^\(it hil'b rarely exceed ''ape Rjnnco in elevation. The bcacli is of .sat iandin X.U'., off will' about 1 so calle well wo The the iiort It is scai the pecu '-^' or I ^ '" ^''« '"^-'t ^'8 n,ilo,s distant is .r'' *''" *""'« ^'> the ^^uV f "!/^^~-. il'e northward to Bealoio I ' • ^, '""^ ^' ""'^ '» commence ]n>r. It is scarcely worthv of ' ''"' ^' ^''"''^ ^'•'no in the -' "*'"''''"«• ^" !«' imjnaetieahlo •■ ,i - *" ^^''""n Hie offin,, u, ^ '^' snorter ■ — ~ ' ' '^ '"'''''* to A'^VH . ^ nul.Hfarth,,i« v„,„„,, ' • • ot tape ■"■ «'(/! to 1 fathoms ; but, as a rocky reef runs off a quarter of n mile to the West of the point, and some detached rocks lie South of the Viradores, it should not be used. Cocos Bay lies to the southwa7'd of the South Viradores, and between Cacique Point and Mu/a Point, bearing S.W. I)y S. from the former, the distance being about l\ mile. These points are both rocky cliffs, surmounted by hills. Coeos Bay may be about a mile in depth within the line of opening. The bottom is formed by a sandy beach, off the South part of which a line of rocks runs North about a ijuarler of a mile, and another small rock lies in its eastern part. It lies (^ntirel)- open to the N.W. /Sent/ii Point lies !.J mile S.W. from Mign Point, the West exireme of the bay, and midway between is u cliffy islet. To the eastward of Caeicjuo Point i.s a similar l>ay to Coeos Bay, having about the same wiiltli to IJuaia Point, which forms the South point of Port Culebra. 'Hie port extends nearly 4 miles within the two entrance points, Buena a.ad Mala, a mile asunder; and is about 2 miles wide, the depth even, G to 18 fathoms, atul anchorage everywhere. Port Culebra is certainly magnificent; and, from information by the natives, it is connected with Salinas, and thence to Nicaragu."., tiraiuida, &c. If anv iiiilroad is contemplated in this (luarter, it ought to enter at the Bay of Salinas, wliicli would render these two ports important. Water fit for consumption war, not found .it the beach, but maj- be obtained n short distance up the creek, which a boat may enter at high water. If w<'ils were dug, doubtless it would be found at th.'. N.W. side, .as the surrounding country is mountainous. Another symptom iii "ivour of this is the thiekly- woodegany, easily iittainable, has been taken. Timb*"-, in qreiit variety, abounded. In the bay, where Il.M.S Starliiii/ was at anchor, tluif r 'laiigei-ed tl seliisto.se se: CAPE El ^'oi'it, the c. tremity of t ^ieut. Bouca '''"«. in 1859, 'ion 3 niiJcs t Jclljrth.s fyom 1 J'oi'it is anoth( 'J''ie poninsu I'Ke a long prit and ,„, its \oj.t ST. ELEIf A "'"i i« about 5 r ■" a "lile due W ■'■■'^ '"i .second roc ■'"f^'f of the ba 'i'''"lersofamiI( '^lilioiiis, and prol '•"')■ '■" a channel "'■""- ''^'.V«. 'I'hcrt '■"■''"' entrance of SALIIfAS BAY ri ^ u 4.3 wns a large viJ/.n^.o m I » ^^^L/NAS /j,^ y '-- ^Vo„eh chit. ''"^'^"'"'' ^"^ ''-7 arc „.. rjoHr t"" '^ ""■'^' ""•. ^'7- ^^-e to the shore ""^— "-t position, t .2 77" '■""-'•• t'-T watered at (between t ' ^'™ '"•« ^"^-^rabJe rivuJ . ••""-" °^''-- constant s rf n'^r"^ "'"'^ '^-^^^T^i '"* ""'^ ^"«t ^"'"e down the gullies wTh ' ^"'^ '"^'""'•^' «ven /„ .i f '" "J^l'-'-^eh, by -''-to.se serpentine, cont'i f"' ^''--^ter of the ! ""' " ^'■'' - -'- ^""'t, the coast between h/ '^ ''^^"^ ^-' '"iles JV h .,. ;-''-V of thepeniZ: IteV""^ ""'"°-- '^^^^^ ^ ^ '^^ '' '^^'^ L-eut. Boucarut wlu. separates the Af,„ 7^ " ''^« ^^^ten, c. "-• '■" '«5^>, ^>i>^ tl"""' '^''^ ^-^' "• t e^; r "^'°^^ ^-- ^^'e„. L ;■ ''- -'^ nn-,es to " "•;"""^ ^'^ ^'^ -stern o, H ^"""^ ^« ^''^--I' 1'7' - another, whie re„n re ' ''"''' """ ■'•^ a nnij u "'' ' '^'•"''^'''^ "^; « '-. pHs,n, the sh ,:^ 77^^ ^ ^he West ^ ^^^^ ^^''^■• ""J'-nitsNonhMdei, ^ '"°^" "PP'-'nnost. Th.. ' '■"^"•'""es, is ST. ELEITA bIy "!" "'^ ^T «teep. j, • ''^. "'^^- - "meh serrated »'; 'n"^> ciue MVst of whi h a ?r""""- '"^ ""'■'^-- i'- 1 1 T- """"' -""'"t. «"d a .second rock at ^ ^^■''" ^""^ is marJ-.., '"^ ^^^v,,-/., •"'^''^' of the ,,7."''"'"'"'^-ofa ,nile ,„ .J^*"''"' "" the French ..h,. '"'>'" -^'--it!t^rvT'°""^'^-'^ «''Ht- ^.,t' '^ """« - '^ '■''"- '-.V.S. Therear .■^"^^'-'""'-'a which se ' ^■'''■' P'^rtieu- :;"" --e o;;r:; ^:::;;'> -^^a .., :;-:-:-- -« two .''f"'««-Msahigherisland , ^' '" "'*^ '^""thern.nost Ata) ^"^"'•'■*' 'V'-J? ^-"^^•. u.h.eh . , ,,„ J He ':--'fW. '^ ! I • >t ^fl 'I: f. '■< I f"- 41 TIIM COAST OF COSTA RICA, KTC. N.Iv by N. of Pdint Descartes and Point Arntica liarho on the North side, the entrance is '2 i miles wide, and tlic depths 18 to 20 fathoms. From thia line to a narrow sandy beach aX its head the depth of the bay is 4 miles, and the depth gradually shoalens tO 7 and 4 fathoms. Salinas Island is placed by Sir Edward lielcher in lat. IT 2 oO' N., long. 85'' 48' 40" W. (corrected). It lies on the South side of tlie bay, and is almost connected with the Soutli shore by a shoal which has from 3 to 16 ft. water on it, but i) fathoms between tho shoal and the S.W. coast. On tho North side of tho bay a reef of rocks lies against the shore, called Ei Osteonal. 'Vo enter Salinas IJay, a good mark, according to ('apt. dc Lapelin, is to bring the sharp volcanic Peak of Orosi, cleft on the summit, and 5,200 ft. high, to bear S. 83'^ E., which will lead up to the island, under the shelter of which there is good anchorage in the season of the West and S.W. winds. Salinas I5ay offers many facilities for commercial purposes, and being sepa- rated by only a narrow isthmus, 20 miles wide, from Lake Nicaragua, it has attracted attention us an advantageous terminus for an inter-oceanic canal. The line is from the Nicaragua Lake, by the Sapoa Valley, to the southern i)art of the bay. Cape Nathan is 4^ miles N.W. by W. J W. from the North point of Salinas 13ay, the coast between being much broken up into small bays, with bluH" pro- jecting points between them. Some islets lie to the West and N.W. of the cape at a (juarter of a mile distant, but the water is deep close outside them. The same irregular and bold coiist continues for 8 miles farther to N.W. to the southern entrance point of San Juan del Sur. 3. NICARAGUA. The Republic of Nicaragua is commercially one of the most unimportant states in the world. Its jwpulation, estimated at from 300,000 to 400,000 inhabitants, of whom about one-twentieth are whites, produce or require com- ])aratively little for the rest of tho world. Coffee and india-rubber are tho chief productions ; the value of the exports in 1882 amounted to £419,7(i2, and the imports £3.')2,043. Were it not for its magnificent line of lakes, by which an accessory Transit Route was once established under the auspices of Mr. V'anderbilt. it would not be worth notice. Since the .state has thrown utf tht' yoke of Spaiti, it lias gradually sunk in power and wealth, and the few resi>ectablc inhabitants Live s-imall weight m s^tate affairs. The northern part of the republic is mountainous, but the southern part Ls a vast plain, in whicli lie ilic famous lakc.s. being about -iw iiuies long iiid ion miU- liroad, c uiim,-I- m bn's the ; and isthii catioi Jfurn iiectcf Joj)ubl about i^edfor, POB 'iccount reason c distingu San Jua: or forefgi J-'iid betw 'i'his pc •'■ IVoctor •'ii.in i.s i„ 'he j)r() iiiinate hen lating this "ould form t''e Pacific, •'\fi-. Ste])i "liich was ^^■''«''«'. bein. parallel, run, <^'f>ular bluffs, under either * Tie po.Hitior f'Hic. r.H. Tho lo, W'StHv.ni ; \na as •"wiJian of C;illa '''''•T'liinations ,.r, t Mr. V,^i\y^ „ J '■> survey of ( lor the most part of tine sa> uiuiuii.i. The gttai Madrt ang.'. m,ik. '""' ."■"•( of tho ni f-^^-'-Julici l.roJu. on ^''>^'mu,„,,.liy„ f„ hi rW'T .SAN JVAN m. .,„„. >•"•'"'•»(,■ wi.h i,w, , """" ra,. SUB. jmirncj- 1„. „„j , «'"'»'■ Loon, „ fi„„ „|j > « «ho co.,,,,,^,,,, "■"■".fie, „j .i 7*' -"-■".o,,. 11,.,„„„,.,;';' *= «- Sa„ J,,,.,, "■■ S.c,.ac„ »,. *„■; °"' '» "■ .^bovo t„o «„::■ '"" "" "" '•■ »bove *-"■ ■«« -..« .„fa Tew"","*""- ■"'<- ... 1°, „! ;r "'"' "»• "' "Vn.™ ■»■*■«" of c„„,„ ,,„ ™ "'■ » i.. «.,„„ „„ „; ^ " ''!■ ''.». »• ,0 ,• fai; ; :,"-'""""-■ '-^.u^. ::;;■•''•'- »"•= p™-;;^:'.:;" "»"■'»».. b. - ■"'. ;;t? ."""•' °"-- ". e»rw,. ., .,. ■■■i: r;, ;• mmmmmmm 46 THE COAST OK NICARAGUA. I I 'I I ■; if iill with perfect safety- Supposing this to be correct, there is hut one ohjertion to this hnrbour, wliich I derive from Ciipt. D'Yriastc, with whom I miuie tlio voyage from Zonzouatc to Caldera. He told me that during the summer months, from November to May, tho strong North winds wliich sweep over the Lake of Nicaragua, pass with such violence through the Gulf of Papagayo, tliat during the prevalence of these winds it is almost impossible for a vessel to enter the Port of San Juan. " The harbour was perfectly desolate, for years not a vessel had entered it ; primeval trees grew around it, for miles there was not a habitation ; I have walked the shore alone. Since Mr. Baily loft not a person had visited it ; and probably the only thing that keeps it alive, even in memory, is the theorising of scientific men, or the occasional visit of some Nicaragua fisherman, who, too lazy to work, seeks his food in the sea. It seemed preposterous to consider it the focus of a great commercial enterprise ; to imagine that a city was to rise up out of the forest, the desolate harbour to be filled with ships, and become a great portal for the thoroughfare of nations. But the scene was magnifi- cent. " At 7 o'clock we started, recrossed the stream, at which we had procured water, and returned to the first station of Mr. Baily. It was on the River San Juan, li mile from the sea. The river here had sufficient depth of water for large vessels, and from this point Mr. Baily commenced his survey to the Lake of Nicaragua." — Incidents of Travel, ^"c. When the Central American transit route was established to assist the traffic to California, this lonely hai-bour assumed a different aspect. It was made the Pacific steam packet port communicating with the line established from New York by the way of the Lake of Nicaragua and the isthmus. The government of the state decreed the erection of a city ( Concordia or Pinedci) on the shore of the bay which forms the harbour. In 1852 this city consisted of a large encampment and a few wooden houses, pompously styled hotels, hut on the abandonment of the transit route it sank to nearly its original solitude. The shore in this neighbourhood is cut up into an infinity of bays or creeks. It is very steep-to, as you nearly touch the shore when in 14 or IG fathoms. From the great similarity of these bays there is some difficulty in making out the Port of San Juan del Sur, which is most readily done by the bearings of the volcanos of Momobaclio, Omotepe, Madera, or Orosi, which rise above the land like so many beacons. Momobacho is like that of San Salvador in all particulars. Its height, 4,4S2 ft., will not allow it to be seen in every direction, except you are some miles off shore. But the pointed summit of the cone of Omotepo (in the Lake Nicaragua), 5,0o() ft., high, and the well-marked saddle of the volcano of Madera, can always be seen, in clear weather, overtopping the hills nearer the &ea. In favourable circumbtanccs the volcano of Orosi, 6, '200 ft. high, with its two p The ''o gair The San Jua N.K. i ] a hill o Hitliin al The hi on the Jji folour, an t.ince apai t'litiance i ""y. and tl Vessels keeping ov( ^wth side, liolding groi "'c risk of g''>los fi.om V The harho '** t'lo same entering, aa p, IS pi'ocurod fr '"t'H- fresJi prov ^^e Lapelin. ^" 18G9, a 1 ^^•E. partof th( fort JTacaso ami to the N.W, '^ ""ly the reso, "'•"• '■'. and it nc '■^ •"'■'•''• portion,- '^'"' ''liortcn the t ''';'•■'' there is a , "^'wtliward of ^^^■' '-y W. diroc f«st produces dy, ''"""'"l- From i„, '"^ooasthetween i '"'"■■"Ith.t article. I :'. •I """l' «AN „,^ „,, ^^^ ''"" ^-n all po4JeX:^"7"«'''P to reach th;;;':':\*"^ to East or ^ '^'^'e .ea4, j^t ^J- ^eep to the land Xlt" '.^"""^ "i> to " '^■•'n Juan del Sur and , "' ^''" I>«'"t out at7r '''* " ''"'"'^t. T'>e hill on the Zth ,' '"'' ^''^ ?«•"'« of " k'"' "' "^ ^'-^'L When "" '^0 lands heh. 'df ^j'''^ '•^"'-"' "i'P- fe' ^^ ''-■"."ished -'our, and on the eomf,., ' ' °" ^'^^ «-th L iike a ' "^'^ ^"'^>'«'> P«teh ^""- -^P-t; these are r.7 "^ ^^^ --t are t reVr; ''""^ °' -'"'^' ^■""-'- - made out t e I '""^'"'"'-' ^y oe an l' , '"'"'•^' -"-" "'- -^•' -J then son^e ho„st T ""' ''"' "-'-^r vil H '"°" "^'^ the ^ ^--Is generall/:: 7 ""• '''■■'^''- ' ""'' ^'^ ^^- are l^-Ping over to the Sout^ "'''''^' '^'^ ^^arbour in f ''"''K ground against th ""^ ''"'^^ ^^^oken sh..)/ ^ """'""''« o« the : "'-"-d from wel : :■; ''"-^>- '^'■^"•nJ the head's th'r^^' "°«'' -''''e 7 fr-h provisions „t'l i,. ' " '< --, and Iffi^ ^^ ^'-'--- Water />; Z«^./,>,. '"^'' Pnces. there is nothing ^ '° ^^'- ^-^ept a ^" '«G9, a large iron ) ^''^""''^^ l^'-^'c.-, SE. 1-art of the bTv 1 , °^' ^"^ '"«°'-^d off the . P«.+ » ^^' ""<' "ear it fi„. "° town in <; <•„„ fort Jfacascolo, vV«„„/ 7 "''' ''' "nchora-e in w / ^''°'"''' '" the ^"'1 to the N. W of y"y^'' «'• /'^aya //..,«1" ^ *" « ^''thoms. '""'^ '■'- '•"'" 't neve h s ""''" ---"al,; ,t ^'^.^-•'^'-. and, Ji.^ ' "^ '■''■ portion is as 0" '""''^^ ^« ^^ I,- ral F ''^ "° ^•^"'^^'^ or towl' ;tl,.ard of San irirV '^''"^'^' ^"^ ^--" °^ ^^'-agua, to ■^■^^' V W. direction Z *'"'' *^^ ''oast trends , "'"^^'■""--clye-."., o ?' ■^"'^^" '■" •■' former 'n ""^ ^^'•"■^^* '« a r""' ^^--"C onl "^^^ ^- Mhil :fV^«^'«trict on the .1^ IR TIIF, rOAST OF NIC All A CUT A. I 11 i I the aiioliorap;t> is ))(Mfpctly safe, pnrticuliirly fnun Novcmliir il!l Mmv. Tlio wimls uic then t'oiisiuntly JVoiii ilic N.lv, lh()iij;li thi'y soiiiotimes blow very strong; hut tlio sca-hrcc/os durinj!; tliosc months never reaeli tlie coast. Brito is the first jxiiiit of interest North of San Juan. It is 7] miles norlli- westward of Nacaseolo, and is a small hay open to the S.W. It is the ter- minus of II canal pioposed by Colonel Orville \V. ( hilds and Mr. Fay. civil eni^inccrs, in 1850-1. 'l"he narrow neck of land was well surveyed, and the canal waH to leave the Lake of Nicariij^ua by the L'iver Lajas, opposite the island and volcano of Oniotepe. and would re(piire twelve locks to cross the separation into the I'acific. Ihit the costly works required in the Atlantic at San Juan de Nic^araj^ua and at Ih-ito, besides all the intermediate en;;ineeriii}.; (lidicultics, |)lacc the sciicine beyond controversy. Jirito was prontiuiiccd by competent authority to be in size and shape unworthy of this ^icat ship navigation. This scheme has again been revived in the United States. The coast to the northward of Ihito was surveyed by Malaspina, but wc have no particulars of it beyond those given on liau/a's chart. Hut as there really is no point of maritime interest on it, this is of the less importnnce. Mr. 0. U. Skinner says that after Hrito follows .Hoffotc, an oj)en anchorage ; next Cdinrm, off the mouth of a river between some reefs. This, by the road, is 21 miles from the town of Ximotcpe, and which is 'M miles from Managua on the lake. At 9 miles further along the coast is the road oL\[asupa, and 1 (i miles further is the anchorage of Mamcliapa, to the southward of Point !S(in Andres. HciC the Bru/il-H-ood district terminates. Sir Edward Hclcher, in i)assing along to the North, began to cxi)crience gusts from the Lake of Managua (no liigh land intervening in its course), causing him to go under treble-reefed topsails, &c. The coast trends, generally, to N.W. by W., and the position of these places is not marked on the charts. They are generally sandy beaches, separated by clilTs, against which the sea breaks with great violence. When in about lat. ll-* hh' the volcano of Momobacho, 4,482 ft. high, will be seen inland when at some distance off shore, as it is not higli enough to be seen over the hnid wluii close in. It much resembles the volcano of San Salvador in appearance, and seems to be of the same outline in all directions. The land within is very even on the summit, though not very lofty. C(ipe Denohtdii, an appropriate name, lies in about lat. IP 58', and it seems almost in mockery that one or two stunted slirubs are allowed to stand on its smnmit. Mahogany and cedar grow in the vicinity of the cape, and about H' miles to the N.W. by N. of it is Tamarinda.* Tamarinda is only an open beach, where the coast becomes somewlrit lower, near the river entrance ; beyond it, it rises again, and is called tin' • The Frii'ch directions pkce Punta llosolinlii in l;it. vr IV X,, lunij. 80" JS' .jl W,, or about lU) niiluB to the norlh-wu.itwiirJ ut tlif above iioi-ition. ■■^'iitlnvar >vaid of ( on it in J, ^feJji'nd "'■ such g, '^ '"erica n ""■""Kh th, '"'^-'icst inn, '^'"J LAiv "'"''•"•'''nw to '" ""■'''«. an, '^■' "loins in SOI '"'•rea.si„^, g„ "'"• '» 'le])tJ, c "'^"'■e that of t '^''"■« basin is] ""■'^■■•^ '■» bmultl """f »r them ""•■ '""uiitains "f water near A '"""'""•c is 200 '■^''""'■^ nnd grou '■'"''■"■rass the nal """■'• ''>an the A ;"'"■ '■' "•« no il ^"'^ fo feeep the] f'W'"ff places at f ^";"'^' ihe night. , ^\' '"'•g'-'st i.s/an| ''.^''■""^'•' the first , f ■■'""•« volcanos „ ;;'' "'"^ '^'0 last i,| ^^'"■'"'''^•'' notil iii '»'^J^l3>dMlU. ■If) '^ '^''''-'t- No ,. f ""'^'- ^i"'"^^ an,, s,.i ;" , ;" ^t^''' "--in. n,.,.,,y «. Vessels : r;'"^ ^•■"' '- "''ta.-„., ;"'; • ''"' ""•■ "-'^-t-n south Hard of ,1. ^i^ ^■'thonis );, „ .. ., "" •'^'"•/m. "V '" ^""""O-. 1877. "-^ ''•^''•■'^■--' ''y tho ,.a u. ; " ""^"'■^^■"■^'- ^^^■'"■"^1 the coast /ust ,. •. '"■"' ■^"•''^'%' "'■ ^u^'h «roat in, ''^'""•'f>ocl arc the ,,rc.f , i ^-Hea^:: ;-; ^"^ P^'^-t Of t::^^-;'^;"-.Uion.,.a„a :"-"^"^ 'he i.h,„ ,/7r '" '''"'' ''- «'vf l"''" "-"^- An '"^"-'l-'intisonly; ft^7' - ''-- opposite side J ,'"';' ,""" '"- -'t '" ""■'-• «nJ the „.' rr""' "^''^ - ^0 ,„i es ,o ' l'"' ''^ -^'-. "nd. ^""'"--•n so„.e p,";r. "^ •""-• The depth o "t '^>""^'^^^ '^--'t'. .. «'tI.udepthof.|5Lh ^' ""'^ '-^ fatho,„s tl, , ' '"''" '"'•"'" '', «^"- that of the ;^ ::; '- ^^^ -"-. The ,e:^ X 7^" "^"'"'^ -<^ «^ -ater near the s" 1 "' ''^''^''^ ^''^^■'"■•'^-.s i„t ^ '^ '""''^'^ ^- a-ay ;„ '•^'•-'« an" groups of isle^v .r'"'^ ^' ^'^^--s deep t, , ''" ^- """""•^■•''^« the navi,,at,o„ nor ^ .^"""' '"'"•^^ ^^ the ,1 f '" '"' «"'-al "'": '"- the shano; ; ;;''';^ -'->-.... ineo,„n „ ^\ : ""^ °^ 'he. """''• it is no imnedi,,., ? '"™= "'"' ^'Ven this : ^ ^ '^°"''^ «'' banks, ^-^ *° J^eep the s ' l' '^^ ;'" ^" ^'^ eraft at p e^ ""^' ''■'"'"^'- - y-^ Peaces at th" W I^ f "-'' ^- the- purpoC of i'; "^^' ''^ i--iee ^"^"'K U>e night. '"^ '''^^■' "'^ tho3- .scarce, • eve, ""^' '^o" venient .'^''r"^»"''^^'-^'-"-nthe,..k ''f?^''i'", the first . *" "'■'^ 0,notepe \r.„, f "- •■«'-«: o:;i: ";: r--'" -' »": :• :rr'""- ■'■■""■■ ^""^'t--'. Solentiname nnd :. ' "■*' '^ '"''""^t trianL^,, "^'' '"" ''avo "'""• and the last ' ? • "^T'"' '^'^ -nailer, an ' ■"': "'^' ' '"'^-s I-^ng ":----' -^-r;:- tr" T' "^e:;;.:r''^'^^'^' '- -- - '^-M/v.,>-,. ' ^""'''^' '*'""•- oi' the Lake of V U ( , ii' ■ :n. ■i.r#% ^ ^ "^f^"^' IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) %^ 1.0 I.I ^ lis illlM 1.8 1-25 1.4 1.6 ^ 6" ► Photographic Sciences Corporation ^ iV €^ :\ \ «• «> * 33 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, NY I4S80 (716) 877-4S03 6^ rv ^ (A .<9 «' 50 THE COAST OF NICARAGUA. the city of Niciiragua anil the Omotepe Volcano, S,OAO ft. above the •««. Mr. Stcpheni says it reminded him of Mount Ktna, rising, like the pride of Sicily, from the water's edge, a smooth un -oken cono to the above height. Near the town of Granada, at the N.W. end of the lake, there is the best an> fhurag'. for ships of the largest dimensions. The Uike of Niearngiin is connected with that of I^eon by means of the River runnloyn (or Tipitupu), navigable for the bongos employed in that country for 12 miles, as fur us the pluco called Pasquiei, where the inhabitants go to cut nnd bring away Hrazilinn timber. The 4 miles which remain between that place and the Lake uf Leon are not navigable by any kind of boat, whatever nmy be its construction, because, beyond Ptt8(|uiel, the channel is obstructed by a vein of rocks, which, when the river is swollen, are covered with water; but in the dry season, the water sinks so low that it can only escu])e through gradually diminishing fissures in the rocks. At a distance of a mile beyond this first vein of rocks, we find another more solid, wkiub, crossing the river at right angles, forms a cascade of 13 ft. descent. The Uiver Tipitapa, which discharges itself into the Lake of Nicaragua, is the only outlet fur Luke I^on. The lands bordering this river are somewhat low, but fertile, having excellent jmsturage ; as at Chontules, they are divided into grazing and breeding furius. All this country, covered with Krazilian timber, is scantily inhabited. The only village is that of Tipitapa, situuted near tP- - ubove-meutiuned waterfall. The Lake of Lkon or .VIanaoua is from 32 to 35 miles long, and 16 miles at its greatest width. It receives from the circumjacent lands, chiefly from the eastern coast, a number of small streams. According to Mr. Lawrence, of 11. M.S. Thunderer, it is not so dee]) as that of Nicaragua. The I.akc of Managua is 2ft ft. 3 in. above that of Nicaragua; ond, according to M. Oarella, the tlifl'erenee between hiyh water in the I'aeific and low water iu the Atlantic is \\^\ ft. In the pr<>]M>Hition for making use of these lakes, it is stated that the ground is perfectly level between the head and Uealcjo, one of the best ports on the coast ; but the distance is 33 miles in a straight line, and to Mr. Stephens the difficulties seemed to be insui>erablc. Sir Kdwurd Belcher was of opinion that there is no insurmountable obstacle to connecting' the I^kc of Managua with the navigable stream, the Estero Keal, fulling into the Oulf of Fonscca. Lkon is the largest city of the state of Nicaraguo ; it was formerly a place of imiwrtance, with a population of 32,0UU souls, but has been since greatly reduced by anarchy and other distressing circumstances. The population now amounts to about 25,000. It is situated on a plain about 21 miles froai Keulejo, 9 miles from the sea, and 16 miles from the Lake of Managua. It carries on some trade through Corinto, with which it is connected by a rail- way, which ia ulso being extended to Leon Viejo, on the shores of Lake # '111 ine niy . •nd ho ottfli i\ mtrchid up to "•r to it, he «. (fiw-v naraniin] •"UgHf »o,Jj^ 3 «« '■^rd. wl.ich U ^ »n i»idi«n tow ple« • , • -K»r work. 3 „,^ furtl ,'*"'''"■ ^^°"t « •"".. ' „ JT'^ •'*""'"-^. of Ion, ««- i..d.a„ tow„. w2 iT'r'r '-^'^^ there iT L' "^^Z' ^'^l ^'^ <- « flnervj •course .own, th. ei./of^;'^ ■*'«' '^-t th, E,tero (o er^.k, of ,, •-y C.D.1 into th, P.oiL „ , • """* •• ""^''K-ble to within q^ ^ ^'""' ^"''''» t«ko. ^"''""m ■^ .f ir > I t 52 THE COAST OF NICAIIAGUA. shoal water cxten(I:> some dintancc off its scnward face. Its southern point is ('ape Auttro, surrounded by a shoal. To the S.S.E. of this is Cailunon liluff, the western point of Castanon Island. I'hcsc two points are a quiirter uf u mile apart, and the channel between is called the liarra FuUa. Conmiy Reef, 3 miles south-eastward of Castauon Bluff, is dangerous, and shou'd be given a wide berth. Sir Edward lielchcr thus concisely describes the harbour: — "Cardon, at the mouth of the Port of Kealejo, is situated in lat. 12' 27' 55" N., and long. 87° 12' 15'' W. (corrected). The depth yaries from 2 to 7 fathoms, and safe anchorage extends for several miles ; the rise and fall of tide is 1 1 ft. Docks or slijis, therefore, mny be easily constructed, and timber is easily to be pro- cured of any dimensions; wood, water, and immediate necessaries and luxuries, are plentiful and cheap. The village of Kenlejo (the name signifies a barrel or chamber organ) is about 5 miles from the sea, and its population is about 1,0U0 or 1,200 souls. The principal occupation of the working men is on the water, loading and unloading vessels. It has a custom-house and ofTiccrs under a collector, comptroller, and captain of the port." Its popula- tion now amounts to about 3,000. Corinto, about a quarter of a mile northward of Paint Icacos, the South point of Ascrudures Island, has taken the place of Rcalejo, there being a custom-house here, and several other buildings. Un the opposite side of the estoro is a rond leading to the city of Loon, the trade with which, by this new route, hns much diminished the importance of Chinendega. Since the opening of the railway to Leon, tliu trade of Corinto ha.s been increasing. Between November, 1881, and November, 1882, 27 vessels called at this port for cargoes of fustic, cedar, ice., principally for Havre and Falmouth. The mail steamers call here twice a month, each way. Provisions are scarce and bad ; ships' stores may be obtained from lA>on, at a high price. Chinendega is rather a pretty town, with from 8,000 to 10,000 inhabitants, finely situated in a rich undulating plain. It is one of the few towtis in Central America which hod increased since the independence, and is only 3 leagues from the Port of Ueulejo, all the trade of which passes through it. — n. a. Dunlop, 1814. The present village of Rcalejo (for the nrme of town eannot be applied to such a collection of hovels) contains one main street about 200 yards in Iengt4», with three or four openings leading te the isolated cottages in the back lanes of huts. The inhobitants generally present a most unhealthy appearance, and there is scarcely a cottage without some diseased or sickly-hued person to be seen.* * "Thin is a very tickly plnru, and I Iwliuvo hath need enough uf iin liuspitnl; fur it is aMted so nigh the crcokM niid t!WHiii|)« thnt it is never freu from a noisome Hmoli, Tlic liuid ubuut it is It strong yuUuw cUy, yut «h«ru tliu tuwu atauds scoiiis lu bo iiaiitl." — Damyttr, vol. i., p. Til, About be trace house, 1 At I{ •trenm, nlongsicii nssort to •s necesf ■nd whit reniainde The wi Ik'ieher si ««nd and Btep romoi Capt. di could be pi Island, but Jn the E8te ■cason. The Tslar iron that th( to vibrate 2] ^y the Conu '^lie northi of Cardon iJ •••^land is call (nrdoH Head ix'inl, about tioutli end of the Sawyer /j tight.— On wooden light ""(l visible 1 thtfin, and the m PORT REALEJO. OR CORINTO. 53 About a mile below the toAii the ruiii8 of on old but well-built fort arc yet to bo trnccd. Vcssela of 100 tonii have grounded at the pier of Itealejo custum- houHe, but above that they would be left dry at low water. At Uealcjo water of the finest quality can be procured from a powerful ■treani, into which the bout can be brought, and the casks tilled, by baling, nlongsiue of a small wall raised to cause a highi>r level. Here the women resort to wnah, but, by a due notice to the alcalde, this is prevented. A guide is necessary un the first visit, after entering the creek which leads to it, and which should only be entered at half-flood. It is necessary to pole the remainder, the channel nut having sufficient width f tr oars. The water from the well on the Isliuid of Aserudorcs is good ;* but Sir V,. Belcher says, " I have a great objection to water infiltrated through marine simd and decayed vegetable matter, and consider the chances of sickness one step removed by obtaining it from a running stream." Capt. de Lapelin says that it was the only place hereabout where coni could be procured, but it was also very dear. Wood may be cut on ^serndnres Island, but care is required against snakes. There are also numerous sliurks in the Kstero. The anchorage here is very unhealthy and hot in the rainy season. The Island of Cnrdon is of volcanic origin, and the beach contains so much iron that the snnd, which probably is washed up, caused the magnetic needle to vibrate 21° from zero. Un the West end they found a mark, probably left by the C'onu(it/.\ 'ilio northern channel, or entrance to the port, lying around the N.W. end of Cardon Island, has a dejith of 6 to 10 fathoms. TL > N.W. point of the i.slaud is called Ponente J'oint, and is a detached rock. The N.E. point is Ciirdon Head, and is 30 ft. high. The cluiiinel pas.ses round close against tiiis point, about half a cnble northward of the liglithouse ; nil over towards the Suutli end of Aseradores Island the water is very shallow, and a large patch, tlie Snwyer Hank, is nearly uwash. Light, — On Cardon Ilcnd, the N.K. point of Cardon Island, is a white wooden lighthouse, 33 ft. high, showing a Jixed bright liyht, elevated 64 ft., unci visible 1<3 miles. A reef extends 2 cables from the West point of Cardon, onu a rock of 1 1 ft. was discovered by Commonder I'ayiiter, U.N., in 11. M.S. Gorgon, in 184i>, lying to lue northward of the island. From it Icacos Point, the South end of Aseradores Island, bore K. by N., Curdon Head, K. \ S., and I'oint Poreute, S. by W. i W. * " Wo oBtflbliahed our tide-guage on the Island of Aaoradorcs, although directly open toaenwiird through HarM Falsi, and we went fortunate to find a good well uf water clotio \Q\y(- bonoh."— Sir B. Btleher, vol. i., p. 28. t I'larl oyntt^ro aro found near the South of Cardon ; but few pearls, howi'voi-, ore fouud inthoni, und the search hua been found very unprofitublr.--Cr'. V. Hkknno; E»q. ■l 'i-^ H Mt f 64 THE COAST OP NICARAGUA. A pilot will procerd to nea when a veflwl i* rignallrJ offCardon iHlnnil, nnd his nerviccH arc conipulnnr}' if offered in good time. C'ahixin Ciiannkl, that North of the ialand, is now the only navigable i'litrnncc into the harbt. Wor ""■e tlio remar " I'he hrwi ••"liore, strongc although this 1 will, as y„„ pj the Kl Vi..j„ y "Ki Viojo i westernmost of "" nciive volcai ofa slice cut oH land is low, y^.l^l winther, and ap of San Miguel ( " ^"ving mac I'lclioragco/fth '"^•'"'onis, shal "•'li"" fn.m the sh *""'le(l dose dow "bsirved a break, ""•I the surf hcavi "" "i'"''"P. which '"'^•'"fthis„,H..„i ""' ^^'ct ep ■ ■ to Ui)o •i'tJelte.! tiees """"T RRA,,E,0. OR comVTO. ' ''o two rocks that nrr .K«. *« ir-nU between theaer/;';,:"" ''"" »»>— ."-ten. ^7 ^^ '"; '^ "• '-' ^ "J". lH.ari..g \.t; , i^ . , ''' ""^ "»*^ P«rt. and another hi^W. .. ,. "■""°' •"»« almost constantlv «,« i • ^"ith, Motnotoinl),, ;« ::;z ""^ '• "•« *- ="'-«»» rot.::"'''.':" •"""" «'^«-- "'» « «'-^ than u|K,„ the apparent „.„in 5(1 THE COAST OF NICARAGUA. 1 J it Inml (Asprndorcs, or Sawyer's I-«lnnil), nnd ia higher and more abrupt nt tliiB end than ('abtafiun ; there is ultio a liiri;e grcon tree jutting out i'roiii it tu the westward, and a higher rock close to it, which can be scon na soon (u the island itself. " The face of f irt. m Inland is of a reddish-brown colour, occasioned by burning the bambo^ . which grows thickly upon it. Having nmde out Cardon Island, the best anchorage is with lis N.W. end bearing East l| mile otf, and El Viejo, N.H. by N., in (>J and 7 fathoms, sand and mud. " No ship should anchor to the northward of the West end of Cardon bear- ing E. by S . as the soundings shoal v.-ry quickly from 6 to 5 and i^ fathoms, the rise being about 1 1 ft., and always a swell, sometimes very heavy, the ship rolling deeply ; nor is the bottom so good when nearer the beach. " At the commencement of the dry season, the land-winds frequently last for several days together, blowing very fresh, and preventing ships from enter- ing the harbour ; but, as the season advances, the land and sea-breezes become more regular, but never strictly so. Sir E. Belcher's plan of Uealejo is very correct, though there did not appear to me quite so much water near the East end of the North side of Cardon as laid down on it. The entrance is narrow, making it necessary to pass close to the tree on the West end of Cardon Island. A pilot takes vessels in and out. When leaving the harbour, you should have a eummanding land-wind, as the ebb sets directly acKoss the South entrance, and very strong. " 'ITic Calypso was a%vk'vanlly sittiatcd ; the land-winds failing us, we drifted down towards Cardon Island, and were obliged to anchor and warp against the tide into deeper water ; the anchor was let go in U^ fathoms, but it soon shoaled to less than 3 fathoms. " 'i'he proper anchorage, which is nearer the Island of Aseradorcs than the o])])()site shore, is confined ; the bottom soft mud ; consequently, should a vessel take the ground, no damage would occur. A large frigate would find consider- able difficulty in swinging here. " Itealejo is heolthy during the dry season (November to April), but subject to fever and ague during the rainy season, which commences in May. Water can be had, but not very good, and is very dear : the natives fill the casks out of the river at low water, a little above Kealejo." The conspicuous tree near the North end of Cardon Island was destroyed by a storm May 23rd, 1876, but another tree, planted in 1872, now forms a gouil mark. Dampier, who was on this coast in September, 1C85, says: — " We had very bad weather as we sailed along this coast ; seldom a day passed but we had uiie or two violent tornadoes, and with them very frightful flashes of lightning and claps of thunder. I never did meet with the like before nor since. These tor- nadoes commonly come out of the N.Fl. The wind did not last long, but bliw very fierce for the time. When the tornadoes were over we had the wind at "■;■■'• •-•™.'. .. «-.s.,v. „„, s „ ,""" "" •■■"^■•^'■^•■■^ « covered Mith trees «i ««t),„ms. M„„,„„^ . , ""* "I'fcar to bo '»• . .i.;,o J: '■ "- -; -r "n !« .« rr ;;:;'';;''"''V" "• '■•«'■. -'■'.v.ro „o. ooJ^™^-" ^ .h. h.^o..dd,i;:j ■*• »';'^'. " -il. N.«h-«-«„„d of!! ™"" '"'j- Pinn.clo, „. „ ' " '" °" ".■•'.« that «, '« 'h. ftmau, J,; ,1'''™ ■' ■•« in... |H..-,K.„dt,;„,t '"'""■ " "''"■» ' ■ ''' """"■■■ -"■• ™ .ec™,„ „ , ''"• '"" «i.l. .1.0 .I.KH1 '' " •» i'«c„„vo oud ,|„oT' "™*«S"». i» .il„„„ ,„, „„|. V , ""-«. i. i. ,d» k, ,„ ' '7'' e™"»ii.v k„„„,, ,," *^ '"'■ '.- -t™, '■"Pina, «„d A,„„„ , ' " """"•■" "f <""c-l,„,.„. r "° °' ""•■ f "If "• ' ■* " , ., • ) I" i .11' ' J '1 - i »R TIIK COAST nr NICAKAfirA, I'TC. N N1 ,( It ! till' two Iiittir. IlnnilmnH |»(>H«c»H<''t Amnimid or 'I'inrc, Sncnl»'-(;i"nn(lc «ir Vt'la'*- rpir/, i, anil Di-iiioNiciini, while Cuiichajjuita, Mitii^uuru, Muitiu IVix-x, anil ruiiia-Sacatu In ij bongoH. Itut the Honduras (iovernineiit, at the instance of M. Dardano, the Sardinian Conhul, Iuih declared the anchorage at Atnapalu on Tigre iMland to be a free i>orl, with the ho|!e of attracting hither, from it» centriil position and eai)abilitien, an entrepot of the eonuucrce of the gnlf. Nicaragua has its port of entry on the left bank of the F.Htcro Kenl to the S.W. It is nunly a post occupied by u few soldierH ut I'laya (irande. It is rarely visited, and (|uite unimportant. The inter-oci'anic railway across the .Sfato of Honduras was proposed to tor iniii:it«' on the northern shore of the gulf. It starts from I'uerto Caballos or Cintez. in the Hay of Honduras to the northward, running nearly dm* SmUh to I'liMta Iti'iniiliiia on Sacatc-Orande, or some other [)oint in the (iiilfof l-'onseca The total liii!;th between the anchorage in each port would be I IN geographical miles. It was surveyed in iH.'iS by Colonel Trautwine, and verified by Colonel Stanton, U.K. It was proposed also to extend the southern terniinus to Tigre Island by a pile bridge I \ mile long. Either this or the main land fronting; the Hay of Chisnuiyo, or else the Island of (iaiov;i or I,a I'nion, might be a ;■ rminus. The railway has since been constructed from I'uerto Cortes as I'u ua Sun I'edro. a distance of 37 miles. Mr. ¥.. Vt. Sipiier says : — The entrance to the bay. from the sea, is about lit mill's wide between the great volcanos of Coneh:i;^ua Ji,'-^^ ft- in height) anil Coseguinn .'l,(SOlt ft.), which stand like giant warders upon either hand, anil ciof volcanic origin. It i« it iiiilu '""g. by "'■/leaks ( "Jit/iwan '"•••se. nH ''••'■••r. (iiaJi "" ♦•«■]/ „, , "'I' 'iidiaris "HoriJ j,„„,, •'.<"'» Imve 1 yitr, nnd o,, ''"• nortlierii f'Med bv ,,;^, ""■ «"»se I'll V, •''■"•"«o.(iran,Ji "'"' »»einal be; ''""Hd with tl, "" "'^' M-n.„n „, ""• fe'round are f'"' '-'lins cense ""•■'".» of a brilli "'■p-'-Jen frrnin, ^ '"■'»*■•* it brow„p,j '"'■'■ "^'"-.1 „nd y ''''i' 'sinn.l of a from which it is SI ''""■"••'H.eof^,,,,., ;''■■•"""■'• ft-'-ti/e. am " '" fr'"*,'".! .by „ „, '■'"• ''•land of -i',^, ''■'.'•• Jti^N about 10 '"""■'"•'Vhtofo.V) f ;'•■»•" forms LJaek. '"'^'•••'^"t upon the ^^•"'■""••ejl.attlie ,"'"' '''^'-'T nnchorn... ""^'"'"'•theshore°* CoBe^uina Point is !'■•''"""' volcano of ;V'^ '''■ 't -ns an ^"^^ <'nv nv ,ovsF:r.v. fo '•"•'" 'mvc- hovn .„.., ""'"'••^'•a of cattl... n,ul i, ■ '^'"""y "'"Jx-s > ' .-.■.: :t:' ;r"' '"^ ^"'""" - '^ Zc ::"'V'- - ->' -^ ""• "•""'- -< ..,.e. of f ^ ""'"""'• "'^•'•" ■•"•'• run,.,-,. ■ "■ '"""' "'' "•« ■'^■"•"•-^•n.„.l,.„,,,..„ ' ' • ""- eo„M„nt Mr,.„„,s. ',: ""^ '"""■'• '•'""'-' -th tic,, '"' '''^" -""-"ee„K.„. o ; ""•"' "^ -•-.,.„.,,„„ r- '--;:;;;:;';;;;;'' >-'.'-.::: t;:^:;;:'"^''---'"^ f'^' '•"•n^. m,Hc. ,„, 1 , "" ''"'^■'•"•''"l lobe „f I, ""jxrilirs of "^'^••'"- .rain. .,,':,:. ^'" « ' r '^'-"^ opp.,r „^ ^^^ ^;";":< -•<• .i ■" fm, ,;::;■; 7" "■«- .>■. •.•„,. 1 ,: .7-, , " ,„„,„• C«p.iM Pota, i. ,^. g ,, . ' "'""" « 'able', -™.;.™^noor,.4:;r:;:'r::v'7-; "-• -... . * "• 't WfisniitiVntlv ,..,11 I,. . ^^ ' '" 'nt- 12" '.« v . '"" ' - -™";:'::::v,-- '"'* '•'" I-'J"" an inner harbour or bay of the Gulf of Fonscca, mid lies on the North side, around Chiriciuin or f'hicarcnc Point, e.xteiuling 8 (ir " miles ii'Iaiid, but the upper and N.K. sides arc .shallow and uncovered at low water. This contracts the limits of the port within much smaller dimension.- On these flats oysters are very abundant. The town, formerly known as Sun Carlos, or Conchngua, is situated on thi Boulh side of the port. The site is badly cho>en. as the didiculty in landiii;;!- ut all tunes great, and at low water nearly impossible; d\ning strong noitlniv| .J! I « I : ■ :H ' -,' i% ,,^^:1 ?* . ' ■■ .1 . '«*^'' * 1'" 'i t • • f •f 1 '^ winds tlic )it)iT, "voiilctJ. i inunioatian, 'J'Jif nptiml is situated n iliiKoIv over '''"•"»kIi the Light. -.t fnmi fho (■„„ 't'proceodi "ti'or direct f, i'v.iid the sho the Hood runs ''"'"g so. guid '•lii'uld not eoi: I'l'iiit. on the I « liich is the tu 'iistaiit. Heforo within l',)int C] s!«>j)es of the An you will linro t branc-hes to the Jivorginjj f„ the "•lilt of knowini; Having douhlf •^IHMis. the North « iter. A large s f^aoate bearing tV "•■Is of les,s druugh •'Ixive n;:chorago, 1 I'^'i'it (^hiri,,uin. , ''■"'"'"IS bottom of "'oasei.fthe Nort; "'■'"" tons usually "" it is not intend ymi in;.y stay in the »-''iita Mid Punta .Sac ''''•'I'iiig as niueh as *"^"''^'th„ftheeurre I'll' >-o tide. Vous ''i'^' tides aie regu ,"7,"' ""-"-' -„o,H.r,.„, , ■ '"'"'•■* i-N'-o-V. ^*'"'"' I'o.nt rhK.r ^ "'' '"■ ""-' ^"'"'•th point of ( ? "'" "' ' * ""'« vou will have ' """• ''"''^" ''^"P"' i-'-pre-.tor H '^" '"""^"'^ ''> 'he ■ , """ 'he a.ivaiitaiTo of th.. « , ^ "'"" "*^'^''i- the islui,!- ^ I'ov.njf douhlod Point Chir" • '^r^-'"'. the North part of whi.h ,"„"''"■'•■ '" "''''-^ha„„ol „,. ,,, . " " "* '"'t intended to stnv I u '"■ '" '"'"^ '"^•••^^K"!'"'. their vd.vitv,..., "> '-woiy attuiuin,, to .' k„ „ ^ - l^»"ts. except be- ,U' iT.>. ,«N' ^.1$ . ». .« ■;,'',. '. "I tif- ; r.|K r4 ' uv n --Ml: *r> ' ■itiMMWm WP i (iJ THE COAST OF NICARAGUA, KTC. Iwecn Point Chiriqiiin and the Negritos. It is high water, on full and change, at 3'' 15"' ; range at springs, 12 ft. 2 in. ; at neaps, 8 ft. lU in. The mud bank in front of the landing ploce dries out more than a cable's length ut low water ; it is better then to use the native canoes to pass through tliis liquid mud. A jetty has been constructed to avoid this incouveuience. If proceeding to Amapnla (or Ti(/re Ishind), steer for the steep-sided chan- nel between Munguera and Conchaguita, closing in with the N.W. point of the first of these islands to within 3 or 4 cables' lengths, so as to bring the second hummock of the summit of Tigre Island, or rather the part where the " sacate "* joins the trees, to bear about N.K. i E., the depth being from 1 1 to 13 fathoms. As soon as that bearing comes on, steer for it, and the lead will show a bunk of sand and mud, the depth on which gradually decreases from V3 to 4 or 4 J fathoms, which is the shoalcst part of the channel. As soon as Caracolito, a low islet, covered with bushes and scattered trees, bears N.N.E., and clears wi'll from Tigre Island, tliough it is connected with it at low water, steer N.N.E. i E. towards a small cabin or rancho, on the sandy beach to tiie right of Caracolito, approaching it till it bears N. by E., and then pa.s.s around it at the distance of 2 cables' lengths from the white house, and then the harbour will come in view, when you may anchor at 4 cables' lengths off the sandy beach, the flagstaff bearing S. 32' E., or a white house witli threi' doorways S. 39" E., being then in 8 fathoms, green mud, and of excellent (juality for holding. The shoal lying 4 cables N.W. of the N.W. point of Tigre Island is marked by a white buoy. Amapala is more frequented than La I'nion, and provisions ore more easily obtained here. Water is procured from the wells, which are private i)ro])erty. ludigo, cattle, hides, and wood, arc the principal exports ; ligliteps are used for landing or loading cargo, and it is j)roposed to construct a pier. The climate is generally healthy, and the population is about 1,100. The Estero Heal, in the southern part of the gulf, ajjpears to be of con- siderable importance, as Sir E. Uelcher took the Slurlitiff up it for 30 miles from its mouth, and might easily have gone farther, but the prevailing strong winds rendered it too toilsome a journey at this period ; he considered that it might be ascended much higher — the natives say GO miles — by vessels drawing 10 ft., but steamers would be absolutely necessary to tow against the prcvaleut breezes. According to Sir Edward Belcher's opinion, this unquestionably is the most • Siicato is tlio term applibd to thosf^ raro spaccB, bare of trcca, but covered with a spncics of long grass, culk-d sacute, whicli, dnriiij^ the; dry season, is of thi; colour ipf the ripo corn fiold< of Kiiropo. Thin grass U burned just buforo t'lo riiiny season commoncos, and then has a rod and sterilo upi'uaranco. Soon after tLu tirst ruius, it assumes u paK> grocn, wljich looks like a plunlatiun ot biigui -cuuod. "•''■.inf/i Mr. O ofLongoi ^'••'le/i.igi f^'ipt. V '•'* -'"'WsabJ •''"> to Cot '" "le mor, "I'xt day „/■ ''"''c Gulf ^><'lchev's pi, '"" '«'ce, ta '■'"' tides are '^ ''•'"• Abou ""■ "'fi^t, nnd "'^' ''"••>'" on th, /^' '■" co„„-n '^'"'"''- to „„; "" '''•^ coast, it "iikIs. '; '."'"'"•^. and ,v, ,.^;';-^""feo„ta,- •' •^"•"•"" run,,,-,. „;;^'''""'.«.nano,or "•-for,. iT " '"1 .."^^"^•^''Otofioo, I ■"" '"'Hnds of r (53 . f^-'I't- Wortl. snys :-r oaV n «'»b«rcadora to tho '^ "'Ivisable to stoor obJ V"^ """'^J" f'"- Co„oh..,„ • . '" ''^ '»-„.„,, ,„, ,^. ; ;" '- '-t si.,e of the Oulf of C 'T "''"'^'^ ^"'^^ « "-; ''"y afte. noon. '""""^- -"^^^^ this point l.- te in T, '■''"^'""- ^''•'"W ..,«b. =". "'« aca l,,ee«, t,; „.„ "'^ "'•"'■l-. »«.! to arrive . • "■« ^«^;.». o„ o„ „,,, . . ■""■' ""■'' '"""B <»..-! •'11' »'.«h f„,oc. ,|,a, ,,„. '! «»'"» 'o f«„ol,aK,n ,!,„ , , "7« "-« rrincipally from fh«T "'^" ''•'" '^ ^'"ch c!ll 7 ""^ "'"'"'^^t borond f" '■"'-'".' tho ,.„f from tl " ' ■ ""• ^""'■J'- *e. ' """" (^-•"""er ,.. II. " (••}' m. ' ■i?T''r '! '■■' . ■ »' i • ¥ «f ![ > ■^>i.l. ' ? W 1 4i Ill G4 THE COAST OF SAN SALVADOR. Jm Phtyeta (fr C/iiijutrtn, which is just to the soiithwnid of Chiquirin Point. You can anchor close in. The best way to water is by rafting, the water in the bay being quite smooth, you can pull well to windward, and alongside to the eddy, and then across the tides to the ship. We filled 2C times a day, although badly off for boats, having only a 28-foot pinnace. There is a surf on this beach, sometimes heavy, but seldom enough to prevent landing. Mer- chant vessels anchor so close, ns to be able to hand their casks off with long lines. When we first anchored in this point M-e tried, through ignovcncc, to water in the IMaya de Chicarcnc, but we found the surf so heavy, the water so bad, and such great difficulty from the tides, that we coulil not get more than 1 8 tons a day, and that after great labour to the men, and much damage to the casks and boats. Wood is not so cheap here as at Realejo ; beef about the same price, also washing ; but stock is dear, and difficult to get in any quantity ; turtle is plentiful, about 2 reals for one weighing 60 lbs. Sir Kdward Belcher's plan clearly shows the only dangers in entering Port La Union ; they are visible at low water, the only difficulty is the very great strength of tide ; it is quite a sluice round Chicarenc Poiut. 4. SAN SALVADOR. San Salvador is the smallest of the Central American Republics, but rela- tively to its extent, it is the most densely populated, and has the most industry and commerce. It extends from the North side of the Gulf of Fonseca to the Uio Paza or Pazaca, about 1 60 miles to the westward, which separates it from the Republic of Guatemala. Its population is estimated to amount to about 550,000. It is an agricultural state, and the princijial products are coffee (the chief article), indigo, sugar, and tobacco. Indigo, produced from an indigenous plant, the jiquilite, is easily raised and manufactured. The coast presents, generally, a belt of low, rich alluvial land, varying in width from 10 to 20 miles, liehind this, and presenting an abrupt face seaward, is a range of mountains, or rather a broad plateau, having an average elevation of about 2.000 ft. Along this plateau there are not less than eleven great voleanos, running in nearly a direct line from S.E. to N.W., coincident with the great line of volcanic action, which is traceable from Mexico to Chile. Its principal stream is the Lempa, which would be navigable for small steamers for probably 100 miles, but it is hopelessly barred from seaward. The chief ports, if such they can be called, with the excej)tion of the fine harbour of La Union, are Acajutla and Libcrtiid, mere oytcn roadsteads, only dcrivin;; their existence and importance from their proximity to the respective cities of Sau , S'i/vflfJ, Ueh •■"•<))•(/,.,; ""'.vo/',-, hi ^r(.,u "'■■'" t/,o.S ie.s/),.er,.,i^ , "'»'>ve-in(.„t ^iinmvr to , ^'''«' ooin,!, ""■ /"•0,/ucts , ^''"'"f'% and i '" '-'ci. voar • .""•""'• hks, '" ''''-' count ;'""^''" Amerie. ^•"'" '""n^Wand, , ''''"'"-'« Shon f„ ■'7' "- ^o,i,,, T: ^''-% eott y -'-/o of e -'""•««« doiJars ■ -•"•".ted to 1,20,^ '■i/iie of fl.; ^"ast, as fj., ^''■^'''- »o ,,;! y. ' '"• '■v/>Iored. . LV„.,,"'^"-^ee.so,J ..'"" ''^"ci'cs „,,,,' •'o/Y/ /J ■- ' ' ^ ''• - „„eh,,„ye.s, are only of interest. - "'"SO of tl , '■""'•^"^•^ «f Salvador hare . ■ "'•"' t'-ose of , ;r'""'^"^-^ «f Salvador have . ■ .^ -'"''. -Kl San M.V, J- .;, •• '"—pal fair. „re ij ^ p, '^' ^"'"'"■''■"^ "f "' "'e country N '*'''*'*' ""^ '« ftr ti, ' ""^ ''•'^' o^ the s,,„ > ^'-«' A.„e.:„ ,';;-- "^"3- and ,e r^" 'r--' of an, t P-'"et«give„forthe ":, ""'"' "'"' ^'"^ fnited S .? ' ''""'^t. as n-e], „, '•"f^-e and indi.0 a\ \ '"" '" ''-^ forei.^ne s „ ^'^'"^ ^''o onlj '" '««^ the value of t ,1 " "" ''''''''^^-'^- '" ""'"'^^'•^ o( l""ts, chiefly cottnn , P*""*'' aniouuted to ", i m . "'"'■•••W the rc°r """«'"»•■• v„v„„, " "."'"*'c.,o„ ,„ „,^ ""■' '■' «i'Wo '::'■: "■'• '■ - »■ ».;:,:;"'■;'""''•■■■■ - c ' "•tension such n .„. ■'^.(i-' rife 'Si', 'V If h •^. i^ , ? ;|'; 'j ^ fl r 1 1 s - >f ■ J4 ' •• *A I 4*' I ■ 1' ill! 1 •iTiM-iiri mnm :f!ilf^ :l':'l 60 TIIK rOART OF SAN SALVADOR. mirngp, thnt it apponrs an if the sni f bronkn much fartlier o(T than it docs in reiility. 'llie sounding!) off this shore arc regular, and increnKc gradually toward the offing, contrary to the opinion that the bottom is very uneven and dangerous to navigate by the load ; hut it may be affirmed that a vcnscI will be in safety anywhere between Fonseca and Point Uenicdios, so long as she is in more than H cr 10 fathoms, and, in a ealm, she niigiit anchor, as the currents are variable. A more general remark may alfo bo made, that on the whole coast of Central America, the lead will be a good guide, and that the depth above stilted is generally safe, except in some places, where it would be too near the land, and 1.5 to 18 fathoms is a better depth to maintain. PORT JIQUILISCO, or (iiquilinvo, or del Tihmfo dc los Libres (according to Colonel Don Juan Galindo, an Englishman in the service of the Uepublic), is about 32 miles beyond Candadillo, the N.W. entrance point of Conchagua. In 1798, the Koyal Consulate of Guatemala ordered Don Vinconte Uodriguej! del Camino to survey it. He states that it was then named the limj of San Sa/vador de Jiquilisco (a species of plant, the indiyofera disperma), anciently called the Bay of Fonseca. May this account for the double name applied to Conchagua to the S.E. ? The name given to it by Colonel Galindo evidently has reference to one of those " triumphs," so common and so ephemeral in these distracted countries. We hnve therefore preferred the old name. According to the old plan of Don V. del Camino, the anchorage is good and well sheltered. Like Tehuantepec, the coast of the main land appears to he fronted by a long narrow island, perhaps formed by the tremendous surf raised by the prevalent winds. Shoals extend about 4 miles seaward of Arena Island. A dangerous shoal is marked on some charts as lying 9 or 10 miles off the coast, S.S.W. of Jiquilisco ; M. Lnpelin searched for it without success in IS.'i'i, and the commander of the Vaudreuil could not find it in 1872, and it is considered not to exist. Commander IMiilip, U.S.S. Tuscarora, has examined the shoal extending off the entrance of the port in the form of a horse-shoe from side to side. At high water, in calm weather, the bar is smooth, but breaks at other times. Just outside the breakers San Miguel volcano bore N. 26" K., San Vicente volcano, N. 43"' W., and Pan Salvador volcano, N. 55° W. Mariners are cauticmcd not to approach the .shore w ithin G miles, when navigating in this viei.,ity. " The port, or rather the creek or ' Estero ' of Jiquilisco, has not the same appearance as the rivers, &c., to the West ; instead of mangroves, the shore ij marked by bushes of a ji.'dc green or muddy colour, or else without leaves. 'ihe volcano of San Miguel, Vc\ii on the bearing of N. 27" E., will lend on to the hoi-8e-.'hoe breakers. At IJ mile off the water is much discoloured, bul the dei)th is 7J and 8.J fathoms, fine grey Si,..d, which would not hold well; a 1 better anchorage would be IJ mile West of the bar, where there is an j adhesive mud, and black sandy bottom. We were not fortunate enough toj find the "The fnfer the H'lore It ( is 14^ {^ /"wsib/e 01 "■'"cii is bi «"'"" »iioah "■'" i>"'nt oi "'•''cs or rip '"•n'cs i„ t,,^ '""« at tJ,e ra ""•■• «n the bar Ledcnie). ,1, """ '«'o chann Tie fixvEjj "'^' -''"•^■'- *.«n 3i ca.,t,«u8 of hi, ,, ^;/-'>" Santo, „, "'^"•^'"•Projeetioi ;''^'%ue]orme< '^''' ^e cannot b •inion'f th^ fl7 7 °» "- w, «„p. r^ "» '"""".i WW, ,„o J ''- '■"'•• -"i »...o„- vw. ..,„„, .„, .„*',■ <.'--» pan „,„ .*, :i7,r "' "■'-• •f »»l. a pr„j>ctio„. ° ™-<-1uo„cc of u,, j„„„^ "• ""» "footed. '"S «• 1.0 l.Vo,h on /;„;'''"'. ~ «» .0 go. „.„ ;j'.°" «" «>l.or .,Jo 'T'- "^ -■<" !^ ^* '"■" ^" •'----::::;; rr- '•« '• ■^"'"ng the many undevol . ^o ^^kewise ^- « first value. Al" ^ "'' ^"""''''^^ «f San Salva , ;^P;neii>aI tWbutanes. C" ^/.^''^ «- ^-I-.andt.rva^f ^" ""^ -* ^"'"^- h Imd Ion., been ^"°" '<^« ""'es Jon^ ,.„ """^'^ «^«onie of ,r;'«^-'^'-np;. jr;^^ --;;^tions. Coal ::tr t^ "^^' "^- ^^"'"''■"rdia.and large bd V ''"P" '™'» ^Ik coast a, ^' ^'^"'^^ "^ rm 'li ■f. ■ • t .s »' ' ' ■hla www 68 TIIK COAST OF SAN SALVADOK. •' ! f I 1 wliut 18 kiioM-n a» pit eoul ; similar coal is cxtcusively useJ in Gorninny for various iiiiiK-ral purposes. The entrance to the Lenipa Kiver is similar in character to the others West of it. It is known by some larf^^e trees with white trunks, with the tops almost bare, risinfj; above the lighter coloured and lower wood, simi' ir to the copse- wood of northern countries. It is found wlien comin{; from the East or South, by bringing San Salvador to bear N. 50'' W., or San X'icentc N. IG" W., and then running on either of these bearings will bring up to the bar. Coming from the westward, San Miguel bearing N. (10" K., will bring you uj) to it. The entrance is about half u mile broad, barred by breakers, which reach a mile olf, and which the natives say cannot be taken. It is quite unimportant, and there are are only a few fishing huts on its left bank. Above this port and the mouth of the river the I'okan de San Miyuel rises. It in G,822 ft. higii, and is u very con.-picuous object in the ofKng, and will serve well to point out the locality- La Concordia, a '• port " of late growth, for the town of Pan Vicente, is at the mouth of the River Jiboa, 11 miles W.N.W. of that of the Lempa. This river drains the Lake of Itopango, but we have no particulars of the au- chiu'age, and its jiosition appears to be in doubt, the survey by Lieut. Chambiu placing it several miles farther to the westward. PORT LIBERTAD i.s about 83 miles to the W.N.W. of the Lempa. It was visited by tl.M.S. Sulphur, and wc give her commander's observations on it. One would naturally e.xpect from this title that something pretending to a bay, or deep indentation at least, would have warranted the appellation. 15ut a straight sandy beach, between two slightly projecting ledges of rock about a mile asunder, forms the jilaza of Libertad. It is har and interest only that have made it a port. At times the bay is smooth, but the substratum at the beach being of largo smooth boulders of compact basalt, the instant the surf rises they are freed from their sandy covering, and a dangerous moving strong bottom left, oii which the boat grounded. We were informed that it is generally violent fur three or four days, at full and change, which corresponded to the time of our visits. The rollers which set in on this beach curl and break at times in 4 or .'i fathoms, at least a quarter of a mile off. Those within, which are the uubt dangerous, are caused by tiie offset or elHux. The sand beach is eonijiosi'd chiefly of magnetic iron sand, the dried superstratum, about one inch in thick- ness, caking in flakes free from admixture. The anchorage is uneasy, and I should think unsafe, and should be avoided near the full moon. Sudden rollers come in, which are apt to snap chain gables, unless with a long range. Toultry, L Uulloeks can The port, u when Capt. d custom-house returning by r the volcano of Am iron pier tlie telegraph , wliite building When at 8 ; bottom, wliieh miles off you wi and with whitev to the West ; w some huts. Wh ^Vatcr may be | wliieh falls into i dt-'Lapelin adds July and October, ^\■hen the mail shown from a lant bearing between A San Salvador, i are connected by iSS-f, to construct t>an Salvador. Sir Edward Bel BeaJcjo, the road prettily situated oj] niouiitains rise, th| spicuous.* San ^' '.[-i HS PORT LIBEKTAI). 6« Poultry, bullucks, kc, uru tu bo obtained, but the prices are exorbitant. Uulloekti can only be embarked in one of their bongoes. I'he port, after Commander Belcher'ti visit, was for a long time deserted, but when Cupt. do Laprlia came here in 1U52, it had bei'n reinstuteil, and the custom-house stores rebuilt. A launch was also maintained, going out and returning by means of the andarivel. The mark for approaching it is to bring the volcano of San Salvador to bear N. ^ E., which bearing will lead up to it. An iron pier has lately been conBtructed for landing and shipping cargo, and tlie telcgrnph cable connecting Mexico with Panama has u station here. A white building on the extremity of the mole is conspicuous fron> sea. When at 8 miles off the depth will be about 25 or 27 fathoms, muddy bottom, which depth will gradually decrease towards the shore. At about G miles off you will begin to make out the large storehouse covered with tiles, und with whitewashed walls, having a flagstatl' to the East, and u white house to the West ; when nearer you will see the tops of the palmetto trees and some huts. When a mile off the place the depth will be about 8i fathoms. AN'iiter may bo got, though with difficulty, from the little liiver Quelama, which falls into the sea at less than half a mile West of the village. C'apt. (le La])elin adds his opinion that this place should not be frequented between July and October. When the mail steamers are expected a ^xetl hriyht light, visible 6 miles, is shown from a lantern at the custom-house. It is obscured by u building when bearing between N. by W. and N.W. by N. J X. San Salvador, the capital of the republic, is to the N.E. of Libertad. They are connected by a cart road 26 miles long, but a company was formed, in 1»84, to construct a railway between 'hem, 33 miles in length, by way of New Sim Salvador. Sir Edward Belcher visited this city in April, 1837, going thither from Kcalejo, the road being through a very mountainous tract. 'I he town is very prt'ttily situated on a level plain, or amphitheatre, from which several lofty niuuntuins rise, that of the Volcan de Son Salvador being the most con- bpicuuus.* San Salvador was the capital city of the confederation of the • When we first saw the mountain of Guatemala, wo wore, by judgment, 2o IcHgiiui' dis- tance Irum it. As we came nearer the land it appeared higher and idiiiner, yet wu saw no tin, liul 11 little smoke proceeding from it. The land by the sea was of a good height, yet kt luw ill comparison with that in the country. The Sfa, for about 8 or 10 loHgues from liic aliorc, was full of floating trees or drift wood, as it is callud (of which I have seen a great doal, but nowhere so much as here), and pumice atones floating, which prubably are thrown out of the burning mountains, and witsLud down to tho bLore by the ruins, which ue very violent and frequent in this country. The Volcan of Guatemala is a very high ninniitiiin with two poaks or heads, appearing like two Hugar-loiives. It often belches foith flames of fire and smoke from U-twecii the t»" h.■ilJ^^, and this, us the iSpaniards do report, happens chiefly in tempestuous wculher. — htiitptu; vol. 1., pp. 22o — 230. \*vm^ mt'm ?•■ ji-iw'i -t' '\ "4.1 1 hm n iii,- 70 THE rOAST OF SAX SAI-VADOR. i ' 8tnti>s of Central Aiiki u-n. iinriitiun wiim dixNolvod in IHU'J. It wiih ii very hiindHume city, of 2<'>,UUU inhahitiintH, witli fine churchcHiind public building'* : but on A])ril Kitli, IHUi, at 10 niiniitcH to eleven, such a terrific enrthtjuake occurred almost with- out the hlightest warniu};, tiuit in ten seconds the entire city was thrown into heaps of ruins. It was then nearly deserted, and the seat of government was removed to ('()jutepe<|ue, about 1'2 leagues di8tant. It wiui again entirely destroyed in }H~'.i, but is now rebuilt. The COAST between Liln-rtad and Acajutla is very uneven, covered with trees, or witli reddish-coloured barren imtehes. On the sea it forms elilfs, bor- dered by n beach of shingle. It is, however, suid to be quite clean, und may be approached within view of the breakers. A district along the coast, between the Ports of I.ibertad and Acajutla, is called the ('imta ilvl lialsamo ; it produces an article known eonimercially as the lialsam of Peru, from itn having been sent to Lima for e.\i>ort tu Kurope. It is collected solely by the aboriginal Indians wlio inhabit that district. About 20,000 lbs. were obtained for iiiniual export. Point Remedios has a reef otf it, said to extend in a south-westerly direction nearly i) miles, but later obsirvations state that it extends loss than 2 miles in a southerly direction In fine weather this reef scarcely shows it-self, there- fore more caution is necessary in rounding it. Ve.s.sels of alight draught have fr«iuently passed safely over the outer jiartof it unknowingly, whereas fcveral others, less fortunate, have been brought up by detached rocks, and a total wreck has ensued. The point is long and low, thickly wooded, and from the eastward easily recognized. PORT ACAJUTLA, or Sonsonate Boads, is the next attainable point beyond Libcrtad. The principal town of this port is Sonsonate,* which is situated about 15 miles inland, and is connected with it by a railway, opened in July, 1 882, and now being extended to the important town of Santa Ana, ia the interior. There is also a small town of about (iOO inhabitants on the roast, which gives its name to the port ; the houses are of various descriptions, most of them of the meanest order ; they are constructed of bamboo open work at • Sonsonnto, or Zonzonat*', derives its name from the Uio Grande, formed by almost in- numurablu springB of wiitur, to which tho uumu uf Zezentiall ia giveu, a Muxiiaa woril meaninif 40U spriii)^, corrupted to Zunzonate. "•Santisnima Trinidad de Zuuzonate is hituHted on the Rio Grnnde. It i.saplensnnt town, although the climute is very hot. E-ich of throe monastic ordun have (had) a convent hero. The church is vory spacious, besides which there are three oratorios. On the opposite eido of the river it has a suburb CHlIcd thn Uarrio dul Aiigbl, on which thore is a chapoi. The communication botwfon the town and tlio suburb is by monns of a stone bridge. In llio vicinity are three smull Indian vilhi^u:i, jcc." — Dun Dum. Juunua : TianslutiuH by Mr. Haiti/, p. 28. ^f^«T ACAJITLA ri Ok- M'""'L"u !u„',t.t' TJ' ""''"' '""•''"^' '■" «''•]-' boats ;— ^-^.os. Which are ] *i .IF. ]: 1: v , ' • V t "' . 1 i^. 1 '?'' > ' r '^ If. ^1 ill. r , -^ . r I » .".iw 1 >. i I ' 72 TIIK rOAST OF SA\ SALVADOR. '♦^•I I't'^pp, but its snfity in well iiniltTHtood liy the lonii pilo'n. Wiiti-r i« oon- (liicti'd to the |)i('r-lica(l, ro that it may be tnLen on board by n hoM.>. At 60 yai'iU from each Hide of tlio mole a buoy it moored. I.ii/ht. — Oil the end of the molf is n find li^lit. viHilile 7 mil«'«, nhowiiifj rrd to southward, and i/nxn to northward, with n hiiijht sector between over tlio bef t niK'horane ground. To clear the K■s, and fruit, arc plentiful and clieaji. Hy Kivin>» two days' notice, fresh provisions may l)c obtained in lar^e (|uaiititics from Sonso. nate. Water is plentiful on shore, but the dillieulty of mttinj? it off through the surf is very jjrcat. The mark for anchoring was, in IH.'J'i. the fla;,'stafl' on with the larf?o door of the custoiu-iiouse store, in 7 to \\ fathoms, according to the season. 'l"hc Ha^'- staff should not be brought North of \. fil" K., particularly when near the land, a» the bottom will then be rocky, and there is the chance of breaking or losing the anchor. The bottom is not good holding grounrl, and vessels some- times drive. In the fine season the current generally runs to the p].S.K. at tlic rote of eight-tenths of a mile per hour. It is high water, on full und change, nt 2'' 3.'}"' ; greatest range 1 1 ft. II. M.S. Havana anchored here in May, 18."j9. in 12 fathoms, with the land- ing place N. 55° E., and Point Uemedios N. 8r 25 E., the shoal ofl'the latter sheltering her from the S.K. ('apt. Ilarvey says: — Here wc found a subs'antially built wharf, ot wliicli there is generally fair landing, although at times the surf is such as to j)rcvi'iit any approach. Merchant vessels discharge and receive cargo by their own bouts. IJeef, stock, vegetables, and fruita may be obtained in any quantity from Sonsonate ; but two days' notice must be given to secure having any con- siderable amount. The pier, happily, is provided with cranes, which were use- fid in getting off bullocks. A vessel should stand no nearer to the Ilemc(li»8 Hank than to 20 fathoms without a good breeze nnd clear weather. The vol- cano Isalco was burning the whole of the stay. No lighthouse gives a belter light ; the bearing N.K. by N. is a good mark for the port. The following observations on this port, and on api)roaching it, ore by Capt, Worth, of II. M.S. Cnhjpso, in 1847 :— Acajutla, or Sonsonate Boads, although not much known, is safe, the oMc't inhabitant remembering only one wreck : the reef off Remedios I'oini brc;iks, the sea setting directly into the anchorage. Here the salt water is very inju- rious to the cables and copper ; although at anchor not more than a fortniglit, the cable and anchor were completely covered with small shell-fish, as also the boom boats ; this remark is applicable to all the ports we visited on this coH though not so much as at this place. The passages to the westward arc imcertuin us to time, the land luul sea breezes being so very unsettled. 7T)P/„ "" Uie p, '"'"' a nhi to .s. \y "etwcon '•"*" tJi,i„ ,^ '"" to be ,i, ""• "I'a hrvc '"'"'A'"'!, is to ^'•e coast i ^''•^ fi'UMcJ t '•"""'mia/ Nct t "'"'•'' mokvH, '"■•"•''"^' it /en.ys ""^•'''J' «-oo(lc.d. ''''"'« nnchon,^ "•'•^•"ftJ,e«ev, "';•'""« "re pa«t ''^■mcdios. ,,,,erp ; ''^""^'i'"s ub/ch r ''■""'^•■''- "Ppears to "";: ""•■'% a s„,ij, .'""*• ^'«theSj.' ."'■''"' on tbc.\E ;'«» "umber of ,„;, 7''^ '^'^' point out ;:'^"'-«omtbebc: ^''^'M-erydiffi, ^f^nr Af'AjT'Tr.A. 'Tic //ind hrcor.o nlwnv. ki -»., •"'"' « "'"J. to „.„ A« „ 7 , ""••'"'>cu,.. «„,j ,« „^„ - J-" -"Lore ,H,no,|) ,a '-•'*'' tli.in tw„ ,!„„ „„ . *f "Jutiu the. i)n««Hjft. i., verv »„ i- - ••• '"• "<'/..•...:• :t:7''"''^ '""' """ ^-" '4 t iT; !"''"' ""^■- ""' •"••« f)n.e^e will hi ' ""* '"•^•••^" "f^-" verv li ''"'""'^ '"''"K ^-- """ ''''-' '"^^"- «" '» - :i r:: f ;;;;^^' Win. o,... ^'''« « u quite el '^'•'^""^«"thtl.e,„, ^^:^- '-"Hi the «e„ l.m'!«.lZ„'r'"'.""^'''''-"«'' --I.v all „lo„,, ., ' """'•' -t to the s.E -,,'•" '" '"'"•^ ""•"• '""J "ft-. ' '•-orthesevt , '''''^" ^^-"«- to find, the , 7 ---". .^;:% ^:c;^;;: - ^-"^ '-^ ^Ti^rtrr • ^"" v<''ca«o« are pa^t. when it 1, "'' "' '^ '"• ^ "nle« off l ' '"""'^■ Jf™edios,,vherei„th„r. ;'""'"'■'>■ '" the hi^ht / !." '"""^ ''" « "^■""^dios which !„ ^■^'"' ""^ ""'•f <■"" lH« hear I ' ^^-^^^ "'■ ^'<""t '"•^--'"^".g 3 nnl; "j^s VT '""'^ ^''^^ -''B re : :' f '^"'-^«. '""^s- On the S V .• . , ■ '^"•^^tion, „n which ,1 '"^'^ !"»« of n «■• ^- on the N.e: :^ °^.'''; i'-t the beach •'l^:::.^-'^^ '''''>■ ^ ■•-to a number of ,„ a ! ' V' ''•«''^'' ^^^^ ^oeks an,, dul V"'' "" ''"^''^ "P"" -^^ '''^- point out a! ::^- ''">-^- «'-uh| ,«„ .., '^^^^ "J ^'-. dividing it "'etches fion, the bell ^'""" P"""* °^ ^'- 'o>v til J '"' ^"" ^«"«ot ^''^'Z' /V,>. °™- ^'"^ laalco is a conical volea„ '^ '^"'"^' ^o'cano, apparently 'it. . i" »'ji A - 1 . t ? r ' ' '','A I >i '''III' 'u!:*-! : 1... Mil Fit'''' 1 1'^ I'll 1 .1 ll 74 THE COAST OF SAN SALVADOR. on the East side of tlie Madrc, and the crater is about onc-foiuth down from the table land. Capt. W. H. Purker says that in the dry se-'son there are so many fires on the mountains that Isaico eannot always be distinguished. In making the port from the southward, the custom-house is visible from a distance of 12 mileK, with a good glass, and in coming from the eastward, the white shed on the jiier will open out as Uemcdios Point is rounded, which point should not be approached within 4 miles. When the old custom-house is clear of the bluff, which leads clear of some rocky patches, and the wharf bears about IvN.l''-., run directly for the latter, and anchor in about 10 fathoms, tluec- qunrters of a mile from the wharf.* 'I'he coast between Acajutla and San Joso or Istapn, a distance of about 60 miles, runs W. by N. and K. by S., with scarcely any inflexion; it is through- out of gray sand, wooded to the shore, and beaten by a continual surf. Here and there the vegetation was of a j aler green, and the whitened stems of the mangroves indicate the impassable entrances of the liios dos Esclavos,^ Pazas (the state boundary), San(ia(/o,n.\u\ Caoba. There is no known danger off shore, and the depths are regular, of sandy mud. The current runs from West to East, at half a mile to 1 mile per hour. The best course to pursue in coming from Acajutla to Istapa, or rather San Joso, is to keep 2 or 3 miles off the land, in 16 or 25 fathoms, so as to take advantage of the land breezes, which are generally light. The sea breeze often sets in from S.W. to W.S.W., and then you can beat inshore into 12 fathoms, The lead is an excellent guide, and there is nothing to fear, as the depths diminish regularly. IJut when the sea breeze sinks about 6 p.m., and the land breeze will not give you a way of 3 knots, it is better to »iy;hor at once, or you may lose ground. * " Romarks on the Navigation of the Coagts between San Francisco and Panama," hy Capt. W. II. Pnrkrr, P. M. S.S. Company, 1871. + "Thtf Rio de Ion Kuclivos, which falls into the sea West of Acajutla, is doscril)0(i by Rli'phens as a wild niaji-stic river. He crossed the bridge over it, erected under the SpaniHli dominion, and the greatest structure of that period. The village beyond was a mere col- lection of huts, standinu; in a magnificent situation near the river, and above which moun- tains rise covered to their summits with pines. Every predatory or lighting expoditiun Ip- twcou Quatemiila and San Salvador passed through this miHtrablo village. Twice within his route, Morazan's army was so straitened for provisions, and pressed by fear of pursuit, that huts were torn down for firewood, and bullocks slain and eaten half raw in the strict, without bread or tortillas. After lca\ing ihis village, the country was covered with luvii." — Incidentt of Travel. The Re| '■''"peetofj t'le populat to 1,252,49; consists of e, ""questional ocean, and ti f'"-' I'aeific it '^'■'"i'a being i ''''••i>ute, but it '''^"•ietofSocc J"»v)nent by ^^^ '■"■c ft'w and s,u. "°"e of them ci The famous v( 'sthnius are her 13,517 feet, Fue> ''ave been very fr "le third citj. of i, °fM00ft.,i„^^^ cen.su8 in 2880 itsj ^chfneaJ, cotton, "'^' fe''«.t staj,Je oj '^•/'"hiic is largely, /""■'s and in ditferej ^■'".502, and the if I'.v tc/ograph. . ^r^PA, or I^taJ '^"icoutJetoftheJ ^* of San Pedro.,, ''"^'"'■«uatemaJa,bti ;"' ^-^ « ntiies to tl ,'""'^^' «■'■»« nautieallv, *":'^- ^^''tJ'out a s„ J r''^"''"'J"'thi«worJr. ( 75 ) 5- GUATEMALA. The Republic of Guat ) • unquestionable salubrity u ^"'^ "^ scenery, of va.st f,. .-.• ocean, and thi« f„ t w [ act '"'' '*^'""^>' ^« ''- -an of ",! '"^';«'"^ ^"^- ^'-ific it extenit:t:;,>:::r'^^' ^'^ '- ---!/; ;::;"";7 ';;"'M.a being the boundary, r'^fr*? ""^ «=«"«"- o^ Me^o hJir ' ^''^l'"te, but it was settled in ,84 "^l.'^^^'^-^' ^-^ been the subiee of "" "■•-- of ^Wusco. extendi;'t:eatToT \^'^''"^' ^" "■^">* ^ ^ ^ Fv-nt b, Mexico of a con«dLb,e " f ^T ''T ''' ''^^'^^' "n t «re few and small ; the largest is the 1/ ' . v "'"'' ^''"'"*'' '"to the INe fi, none of them can ever ho ff ^^'^hUoyat, which passes th. . The famous vlaTo wh k"" '" '^'^'^- '''"'' '"^ '«thn.us are here Le Tn f "' ' '^'■^^■■^'^"■«'''%' feature of tl ' Lave been very frequently described T^ ^"'^''''"«'a). and Atitlan, 1] 500 f 4,400 ft.. ,„ a vast and beautiful plain inlanV J '^"'^'^ "' *^" *^J-vatio« --us m 1880 its population was esT L ' P""' "'^'^ '^'-- At tl^ -chu.eal, cotton, and indigo are the . ° '""•^""* *» 57.928 CoV '"^' ^-at staple of the cot t " Li ' • '"''"'^^ ^°^ "^-^' ^"t the fir.fl' ;P;^Hc i3 largely indebted to^he'^ o^ ^^''''T; ^^« — o^ , P rts and m different seasons. In i882 7 " ^^ ' "' '^'^^d '» differ ut '>^-«2. and the imports £384. 8 rt;"': "f '"^ "^^^^ «'"ou„t Z' •itST'- r "^^'"^^'^"'^^—-w connected ;-f;^"r:':i:::c::is^----uor^ ^"^-^>« miles to the westwar ::/:::;7/'^^- ''''^ ^^'^■» ^'^ It ■-.cMvas nauticaliy unimportant Itr " '^' '"• "^^ !'-'.' T, ,' ^-d. wuhout a single attribute to g e f^"" "^'^^^ ^'"^^'^-Id o,„. .Jj -;-'« "f a few grass huts. ' '' "" "'""« «^ P-t. The vil a^e Zt ^^^!:^^:::!!^^ -.V. 'K.ad,and. roc. or . ^ ■ . ' '"i-«, or reef or 'CensoGunenil f1,>I,. t>„-..,,. ' " ■ ' "^ I '"^ '■epulilic ir: .- "'f ir|if|r|i7«igag»igaiaBai 7fl THE COAST OF GUATFiMALA. lilt |i ' i::.i mark whatever to distinguish it from the a ^'"atenialt 'ast and wi ^■o^anos ar *"" ^hG two "'''>• i%'her, ^^'■' 'wo last. ""'"e periods "r^yices near "'''■■'I'itants of "'^""t'oned, an, «ccord/ng to tt 'fountain with ''""""•huishar f ™c.d that it ij ;; f^^Pa the .rue '^""te/naM, .y go "■'"'•^^eaeh.then "■^« about 2 7i J '^'•^"'a/a nearly « ;-^^'t"te the wL ;^We;ose to the , l^yi^b it, i, \ "'^'""'J behind ft ■^™.''^^ «'hich it has "''"''' ^^'^bontG^ti 7 t"'-^'^''^'^" that J "■'lic/i, ,vft!, M ' °i "-'.aiwavs !i Guatemala: then fh « *"* " ^^^ water voI,.„« .t . '^ ^^^ vol- volcano^ are of a mo^ ''°''"^"° "^ Tajumulco ^? °^^^"«^™«J« ; and the but the two m ddiro '"^'*' '^"'^ fl tten d or '' '"* '^' ^««* o^ the«e thctwo]a.t-me„tred • r ^""^'^ "* ^^^eir tops ""''""•'«' '^« consider- -ne periods of I " ^"*''* ^°'«»"«; it h " h^' ''^*^">™««t one of -cesnear , sutr* " '''''^ — apj ^,7 '"'' ^'•■^'^' ^ n.ent.oned, and appears to h 'e t" T '' *° ^'^^ -stward of th"?"' «ocord,ng to their bearin. T ? ^'^'''''^^ ^'''"mits, which on. . ^''■ mountain with a deon nof K ^' ''""'^^t^^d it has thlf ^ ""'^ '^'"^^ '■"« « whitish appe:r rth';;'^ -T^-- ^^^ 4" ^ r^-- °^ one Guatemala, N. 30 ^ '. "^ -'-«« of Guatemala, N I E J "''' '°'^""*> white beach, then bore N ' f ""^"'P'*' "^i«='' -a.^ just visible o ^^''^'^ ;-b°- I7i fathoms ne;b?^r'°"'^-^i"^^^^^^^^^ Guatemala nearly on will 'ido ^''""^^ ^^ 'hither of tL , ^"*''' «nd sufficiently near to n f " "'"'"'^ *° ^^''hin a few mil ^ ! ^°''""°« "^ 'i'^'nguish it, in cons." ' ^"'' "°^'^«« »he flag be fl. '° " «™«" 'trough which k h„ "'"'■""^^ to the river is llf *'""''« °^ trees -- -a^a?re:\:rwt.r^'^ ^^ ^--« Kr ^''"-^'" -'^. «'.o occasionally fi„d e^ ?"' '^^"^ ^'^'^'ter to about 40 "fn "' ''''''"' 7t\--'-hatLnlr'°^™-' ^" '^^^chargin, mtl^rfr"^;" '"'he bad season (Juiv to q . . "^'«« from the ''''' '" "-hor at, ot L?'^ "'"^^ ' ^'^""'•J imagine thi "'""--"thesouh rT;:, 1'^ '-^' -tirely expo!:;';: "''' """^« SAlf JOSE DE GUATEMALA th ^--'rprae- ipa if'-^. ■^'''■' iL .J H i^^ I' V ' .-'» ,•' ' ' ". '.'r' n, '■*,> f- ■ T, ,1. I . ^ _ -* ■ ni • ' 'J ^ THE COAST OF GUATEMALA. \^''r':> ,;■■ * I, tB ^ . 1 W^^Rt find the anchorngc is aliout The coast is very clear, -'^"f -\rr'5 tZins of .ate. The s.eU three-quarters of a mile from shore, mil to ^^ ^^ ^^ ^^^^^^^^ ,^^^ ^he Wks heavily upon the shore, -^ ^^J^f ^^aa-rivel) for laudin, on and lach, making it necessary to use h ,nrt I m ^^^^ ^.^^ ^^^^ ^, leaving the beach. The currents are veiTJ § ^.^^ .^ ^^^ ,,,,t period of Inhe moon, the variations ^^l^^;^^'^^ZXn^ir., is easy. lu March the 8iK hours. From November to - ^W ^^.^^ ,,,, ,horc, and at ebb and flo. of the tide extends i^'>-^^l^'ll [,, ,,,eh a distance of 1«0 to tfloodtidethesurf iss^oheavy^as.d^h p^^ ^^^ ^^^^^ ^^ ^_ ,,,^ ,„ z::^^ ^ -^' nr ::^:^'- — ^' -^t"! An .Von screrv-pUed pu- -« ^een ^nst ^^^ ^^^^^^^^^ ^^^^^ ^„,,i about 330 yards from the shore to a poin y ^^^^^^^^ ^^ ^^^^^ 3, „ the transportation between ship and Bho- _^ ^ P^^^^ ^^ ^^^ ^.^^ ^,p,,,, .f the year with facility and safety. lifting a weight of 4 tons. .^ ^^^,,i„,es shown on ;he t«p of Jsels are, however, dea. an proc- - ^^^^^ ,,,„,,,., . towu 40 -^es vision be previously made ^° J^^,^^ , ^.p^lation amountmg to 11 398 m aUtant, on the road to the capiUd -t JV ^^^^^^^ ^^ ^^.....t. The 1880 There are no means of rehtting .pons consist of coffee, hides, sugar, ^^^^^^^^^^ Vhe usual modes of -nveyance to the i ^^^^^^^^^ ^^^ ^^^^^.^^^^^ j,,,,. • . n;li■ -"""■'■^r r:-:^ "^^^^^^^ current generally ».s to ^^__ „i„d. «ill «lt« 't. ,.,,„ „mc here m ">"»• '■ >, —San J SAN JOSf:- D, OUATrauu m..l„ . ... . on the const Of Ou. to. . • " ^^^^^^^'ALA. « port, being inorelv n. ' "caption, it hn, n„ i • winch can bo seen at% d "" '"^ '^ '''«'> ^urk saudt b 1. T "'"'"■^•"^' ''^^" <•- the port. The alh '' °' ' '»''- ^^3 the t ' ""'' ^""^'^ '>""- '^■'■ere is so„,e difficuh v^- f , '"" '''^ ^^'^^- '' ''"''«">«. "' tl>o neighbourhood I. > " "^' ^^'^ anchora-e of S. v . "'-•'^s. horvever r^ "^' °''^' ""^-ke„ line o^f bl ? ' '''' '''''' ''"e ''^^-ten.ala,g::::;'"^;^'--«-ar^^ trees; the be.st f- ^>- ^V. . W... La";"n:t^^^ ^ro. ^- Ag„a being the neares 'and "' ""' ''"^''>«' ^- V E Ie ^V '' ''"^^"*- » -Joep notch in its sumLt k , '' ''°"«P'<'"ous; the form ^"^"^'" "'"^ "-'^-t guide till ZZtT '''^ ^^"- ^-"."<>rou^ t r"' ''^'"^^" 'y "'"J -^"'1. in H or 10 fatho „ T '"^'^ ^'"""^ i« tolerable '"7- end bearing «,.J;7;;^;«'^^«ta«-on the eusto,„ :! •'^^P'-' "»" »"^hor a little farther out • n 1 '" ''''^ '•■'"ny season i ^'°^ ^'t'' ^-munication with th u "''"''^-'"'^to'- brings Tal "''^ '^^ ^'''^^- to ■^ ''^^'^ to very violent n " '"P^-'^'- At hat ;"'""' '"' ^'"»'^^■■•"- "■■'^ ^-^' ^^'-r: r 1":'"^ -^ -"e: eTir ^'^-^^ -- ourrents. " Wh^n "'" bghtnnig. No relln "*"*<'<'*' attended -to« to j.„„ t,„ if ; ■""• ™« l»«rinE of 4 '° '" '™ «"-« "S "is coa,i the p„. ""mbarg ship «•-..,, '""« «« of oi;^ 7; »°: "■ W. """"■ ''■'■" »vo„, „„„,„,,„., r-"'- AtiV. '"""eW-N-Wofcs , • It lit * KIT. 1 I V \>i3" (1 V'fi 1: iflfp *' ' 80 THE COAST OF GUATEMALA. in 5 to 7 fathoms. Being quite an open road, Capt. '.Vorfinann, of the ship Magellan, says the cutters which bring off the sugar arc sometimes unable to do so on account of strong adverse breezes, causing delay. About 8 miles more to the westward is Tecojate, where the anchorage is bad, over shifting sand. San Luis, about 35 miles farther to the N.W., at the mouth of the l{ivcr Samala, may be known by two large sheds among some huts. The anchorage here is dangerous in the bad season, but the port is connected by road with the princij)al towns of the province. Champerico, 12 miles N.W. of San Luis, has a custom-house, and is in- creasing in importance; in 1880 its population numbered 605. Coffee is loaded here in the fine season (November to April), but in the rainy season it is very unhealthy, and the place is almost deserted. It is connected with Ketalhuleu, 25 miles inland, and Quezaltenango, the second largest town of the re]>ublic, and 50 miles inland, by a road. A fine pier has been built for facilitating the loading of vessels. Large quantities of salt are made here. Champerico may be recognized from sea by some large white houses and flagstaffs. The ancnorage, which is open and exposed, is in 6 to 8 fathoms, with Fuego volcano bearing N. 65° E., and Agua volcano N. 68° E. In the rainy season the anchorage is very bad, and the sea breaks furiously on the shore. About 45 miles farther to the N.W. is the village of San Beniio, whence india-rubber and hides are shipped. 'l"he republic extends to the boundary of that of Mexico, the River Tilapa, a distance of 95 miles from San Jose. It forms the southern side of the province of Suchiltepeques, and is the eastern portion of the exteubive bay called the Gulf of Tehuantepec. The Province of Suchiltepeques is bounded on the West by the Mexican province Chiapas, and extends along the Pacific about 96 miles. It was mucli more populous formerly than in Juarros' time. The climate is warm, but loss 80 than Chiapas. The province is watered by sixteen rivers ; of these the Samala, which discharges itself into the sea, under the name of the Xi'^alajm, is the most iiujwrtant. It is fertile from its situation, and abundance of water; the chief article of commerce is cocoa, so excellent in quality as to be preferred by many to that of Soeonusco. All the coast from San Jose to the head of the Gulf of Tehuantepec is dcgcribcd j as being low and sandy, containing many lagoons, with shallow entrances. Ikliind this low shore the mountains rise to a great height. rm H' n ^"'^ const, /esc states of PI ■ o. , ' '-'nap Ou PoJtionj '•goo^rnp^ '"'/'"'ts^ereat" "•'"eh thov,^- , "lose r)n.f„ . ^' and li °''ces to all porta '■""p'o ;i snfcty, '"'fame a "(the The vice-r. parent '^yalty '"onarchi est I I '^\ieo. s{„, '•/// /• "Ct^C CHAPTER n. ^UAbT OF MFXTnr^ ?r--^»f?--t^:i^^^^ »«»»'.». ,,„„,„„, 2 Ccrroro. A,,-,^ (11,"" "■'"■'""■■I "f U.c "" s'-R^p).,-.,, *7» -i'"!"... "• '""""■ •'■""CO, „„„ „„„;' ''•I»«. »cr.I?;,, "" *« '■»'«« .1.0,.. ' ''"• "^"""llv. « ver,. «„„„, , I'^^zi ,r "'"'»'"«'» of :,, 7;""'' " «.on»i „o„;:;™*»'' ^ for •w, „,„^„, -«'« o„po,.„, „„„„. .::.-^-"», „.,,4"*- • »' '»"B«s„„o [. „J * HI 111' ji'iL'sl 4. I "- II 82 THE WEST COAST OF MEXICO. i 111 •! Boon abdicated and retired, but returning, ho was apprehended and exorutcd. The government was then modelled on a similar constitution to that of the United States ; but the original i)arty divisions remained, though under different names, llie campaign which led to the annexation of Upper California to the United .States in 1847 led to no internal amelioration, and the first hopes of the world were defeated, when the *tatc was destroyed as an empire by the death of the heroic Maximilian. To these disturbances, and consequent insecurity of property, must be attributed the embarrassments of commercial enterprise, the enactments of the law, and the long train of evils which lie so heavy on this fine country, and its otherwise, in many respects, good population. Mexico is divided into twenty-nine political divisions, and has an area of 711,820 square miles, the population, according to the census of 1882, bcin" 10,001,884. About 2,800 miles of railway were open in 1883, and several important lines are under construction, some in connection with the United States system. Other lines are also projected to connect the numerous ports along the Pacific coast. The country of Mexico, especially that part on the Pacific, is divided by the natives into tierras calieittcs, or hot regions ; the tivrras iempladas, or tem- perate regions ; and the tierras frias, or cold regions. The first includes those beneath the elevation of 2,000 ft. ; the latter tract occupies the most important part of Mexico, and, in fact, is that vast plateau on which Mexico stands. On the low lands of the coasts the heat, during part of the year, is insupportable, even by the natives, and thus the town of San Bias becomes annually depopu- lated for a season. The Cordillera or mountain chain, which, in the southern Andes, is a well- marked line of lofty ranges, and less distinctly so in the North and throughout Guatemala, in Mexico divides into two somewhat indistinct branches, foUowinj,' either coast. That to the South is irregular, and in some parts but little known. At the head of the Gulf of Tehuantepec it is about 60 miles off the coast, on an average, but leaves many valleys of slight elevation between the detached portions of it. To the mariner most of them are unimportant, unless we mention the volcano of Colima, which becomes an excellent landmaik for that portion of the coast. Most of the peaks are volcanic, .some in activity; and the usual volcanic phenomena of erujjtions and earthquakes arc frequent, the latter particularly so ; and many severe visitations of this sort arc upon record. At Acapulco this becomes a serious bar to its continued prosperity. Of our hydrographical knowledge of the Pacific coast a few words uiay kl said. With some detached portions we are intimately acquainted, through tin excellent surveys made in 1837-8, by Sir Edward Belcher, of the English nani when on this coast in 11. M.S. Sulphur. In tlie voyage of the French frigai Venus, commanded by Du Petit Thouars, who was on the coast at the sa time with Sir Edward Belcher, we find some information ; and to M. Tess-i his J pos.sei "/' t/)0 ^.'itfcr li "lUc/j f, ^^'pst CO /'''-'• Offio "" '■^■■ped,-) S'lorcs, a t P"''''c.-U/on *"»' period, '"''% aTri,su ^^^^'ro, and a ''"■« captivity and a// papers outSc ■ "ce It to 'aj-, ''"''''■^'"'d. OS dr «J,''^«oco„.p„„l ^' ^»'est Coa '"quo. I t^e months a»'/ trade, ^e ^rol ,^J^^'"^"eanes'tJ ' O^ July] ^b^'/ievethe -^-e I V r '^"^ "«»'about:r".^'' ""d all I 'i' aboij titcc, "■"■■' "-' "' "- - "; :r "" "-" ■" ^•woni";;™' ""'"- -^ "o- *"«' period, was fruiter V ^^ '^'' '""J^^^' for bv t , ^ "'"'""^ ' ^»' the ,^-^— d b/ r",^,^^^^'"Hnna.a,u,e^^^^^^ of Europe J «etiro, and after^ds Zj^r' ""^ ^'"•-" '^ t e -"™ ^o Cadi, -^ a" papers „„d drawing L?" •"' ^'""* '--'"ff and °' ''°"'"'^- ^« ;-ed and suppressed by h ""^""^ ^«' - coJIeeted by th '"' "'^'^ ^'"''"l. ^■^« disturbed state of s''?"^""'™-*- ©f the ea«se of .r T''''''"' --« -'--, ./g,, have ledt ' '" "'"^"^^ ^« ^^ overll'" '"'^ '« ^--n. *>"«- it to sa,. that he 17^"'"'' ""''^'' ^^^^^pZlT "' '"'""-'-J ^^'^< - drawn up V /) " Tr'^'^^ ^™'" t^^ '",1; ^ '" ''^ ^'^""^^^ "hile accompanying rh! " ^ '^'> ^"'"a, p r g" ' " ^"''"^'i'-ontly ^ ^---- ' i f^ii ;:?:;;■-• '" "°^ ^^^ «^-v-ion: "' '"'ricne ,o ^IT ,'°" ' "" ""«'"0 to ,t K , *''»""'• I ^iall .ocou„.„/..^'"'™''«*S.n ■■ I i I'lf !i' 1 1 11 inl (^1 I •■ l§.l\ I • '1 ";■ 84 'IllK WEST COAST OK MEXICO. experienced of late years liavc occurred on tlic Ist of November, nltliough the weather usually clears up about the 20th of October, and sometimes even sooner ; and ns soon as the weather docs begin to clear up, a ship may, with common precautions, venture into the nnchoragcs again, for this reason, the weather will give aniple warning of a coming hurricane ; whereas, in the pre- vious four months, before the weather has cleared up, the circumstance that adds to the dangers of this coast is, that owing to the threatening appearance of the sky every evening, and the violent thunder storms and squalls at night, uccompaniud by heavy rain and lightning, the wind veering about, you are at first led to believe that the hurricane is coming every night, and latterly you Bce it is utterly hopeless to foresee the coming of it, as every night appearances were as bad as they could be ; the barometer here being of little or no use, and a tremendous sea occasionally setting in. Thus the remaining oflf this coast during the hurricane season will cause great anxiety. The squalls and gales usually commence about S.E., and quickly fly round to the southward and S.W. ; you have generally time to get to sea when it commences at S.E. ; but, as I have before shown, you must go to sea every night, if you can, if you would be free from the dangers of the cordonazos coming on. But a tremendous swell frequently sets in whilst the weathtr is in this threatening state, and the wind still light, which nuikes it impossible to get out. Moreover, if our boats happened to be out, and on shore when tlie swell came, it was impossible to hoist them in, and for this reason we have frecjuently been obliged to send our boats from the ship, with their crews, to be hauled up on shore, and remain there until the swell went down, that I might be ready to slip and go to sea. It appears that the cordoMiizos come on an average once in 6 or 8 yean, and we experienced none during our stay, although we had a gale on the night of the '21st of September. 1 was fortunately under weigh, and had plenty o. room when it came on, having stood out to sea on the evening of the 19th, on account of the weather being bad, and fearing the full of the moou on the 2t)th. It commenced about 9'' 20"" p.m. from the S.E., flying roimd to S.W.. heavy rain, thunder, and lightning, with a very heavy sea, reducing us to close- reefed main-topsail, and fore-staysail, washing away a boat, and obliging us to batten down. The sc^ualls come on very suddenly, the prevailing winds being in the bad season S.E. to South and S.W., and the heavy swell usuallv before and after the full and change of the moon. The swell is such as is seiii in the Buy of Biscay in a heavy gale, and, unfortunately, usually sets into the bays before the wind comes. I therefore think, that a ship caught at anchor off San Bias, or ^lazatlan, bv a cordonuzo, would have small chance of escape, especially oS the former, iis she would either go on shore or go down at her anchors ; to slip and slaml out the instant it commences from S.E. in her best course. The '""■o/lll lo/ii/t/er After "i'i'earan ^'>ti lih t'le tJierni '""' «epte 'eceivo nil ^^" tills c "'■ ""•'". a, '"•ea,/ti, acr, ' ^'- 6 in. in ("It found 1 1 1^0 men ^-ith «<""uion on tJ, """■^' 'iren.Jt.d ] .'V^'"'"" '■" th '"'"'"'• "nd, fro, "'^^"ffieientstrei '" ''"-' ^^'^'iider „ """"''''• of Guate] "'!;:"' "' '■»« head ^^'' ^i'"c-rica„ , r'"^''^" the At/a V'>s.sionofthe ^ ^'""-^-js were „"J , t '''''^^ Orti^ , '"'""-■%■ of rJI t i^aoou of 7VI,. I "^■T'lpeeho .^"'^•''■^^«>vej "1 , ■I i! :i "i .; nMitirr''r"rriyTiirtiffi«ri1TrMlilrltfitiTili 85 f^'Vl.F OF TrrTT-.». 'i'hc ran^^e of... , "'"I •VXTKl.Kf.. ^^^''''"'; -P%' above a t .. K ' "''''"'' -'""y ."«.«• ""' '^'''^ con.,Ueraiij,. ''"^''. <^xccpt duri„j, a J.Z, '"""''' '"'O inches; ^^^'«-'-^thof.Vovo„.bert, "^' ^•^"""- -'^en it .^J ' "■ '». i.. d>.p„, i„ °°'' ""^ ■""'"I' »a. 3 ft. s i, ■., ' ""'»»'"«1 .9 ft. i„ „ "- -vo,. „„, „„, • ■"'""' — in.„ the Oolf 'Auijuxiatioi, of th,. ;.„ *^"i" ii- H' i|^:-^;-MI; ■fl if S) ^1 !{».•■ f?' i-^ : ■ I ' ?» M' .1 Rfi THE WMST COAST OF MEXICO. H -; i| ill I \ ii'porti'd Unit it wiis |)riutic'iil)lu to construct n cnnal lutwccn tlic Ilivcr Oont- KiicuulcoH and Sitlinii Cruz, u distance of 144 miles, but about 140 locks would be ncci'Hsary.* The latest Ntdicino for making use of this isthmus is that by Capt. Ends, so will known in connection with the tiueccbsrul works for inijiroving the entrance of the Mississippi Kivcr. He proposes to construct a railway, on which vessels t)f large size would be transported from ocean to ocean in a few hours. The highest point reached by the railway would be about 600 ft. above the s«a level. The whole shore of Tehuantepec is subject to the visitation of terrific hurri- canes (which take their name from the isthmus), sweeping with resistless fury along this inhospitable coast, which does not afford a harbour of refuge even for the Hmallest class of sea-going vessels. Since the end of the sixteenth century Tehuantepec has beeu but very little frequented ; the sea retires daily from its shores, and the anchorage deteriorates every year. The sand brought liy the Chimalapu increases the height and exten; of the sandy bars lying at the c\-* of the channel from the first lagoon into the second, and from this into the sea. Between the base of the Cordillera and the ocean is a plain which separates them from the Ingoons, which, like an immense bay, communicates with the I'acific. This llano, or plain, consists of a shifting soil, formed by the detritus of the slate composing the adjacent hills. From the Cordillera to the lagoons the plain occupies a space of about 1 8 miles. According to the United States Tvey of 1871 the inner lagoon, named Tilema or Superior, is about 15 miles "»tent N.E. and S.W., by 10 miles in its greatest width, and from its mouth, i^ vhe liarra de Santa Teresa, te the point where the two discharge themselves iniu 'lie ocean, called the Jioca Barra, the distance is 6 miles. It is a marshy lake, the depth nowhere exceeding 21 it., with several small islands in it. The outer or Inferior lagoon, including the eastern and western lagoons, is about 30 miles in extent, East and West, and it is atnted that an arm of it rearhcs beyrvid the liarra de Tenola or Tonala, which lies in about long. C !" ii;' W, The mail 8teamc"s call at Tonala. The town has a population of about fi.T'jO. There is but little depth in either of these lagoons; thi-> oiuer one has not more than 16 ft. in the centre, in the line of the canoe navigation, the shallowest part having only 4 ft. Tlic sandy tongue of land dividing the interior lagoon from the Tilema Marsh, and that dividing this from tiic ocean, is formed by the waters brought down by the i iv is coming from the Sierre Madre, particularly the Chicapa and the Juchitan. Soconusco. — In 1871 the Mexican Government declared this port, on the ♦Rrports of Explorations niid Surveys to nscrrtain the practicability of a Ship-ciinal a■cro^B the Inhmus ot Tthuautoptc, li) Ciipt. R. W. ShufelJt, U.S.N., WusLicglon, 1«72. const of Ohi f^>r the use i to the chart, tlio anchoro^ About 17 I l''f,'li- Capt. n licrth of at fiitjiclied huti remarkable hi latter bar, and Mar, with a ( Smi Mateo. Boca Barra, extensive lakes <^ulf of Tehua •According to .1 Itast depth of 7 •Mr. Tra.stour, or of "i miles an entrance imprncl VENTOSA Bi long. 95" 8' \S'., J I'eing low and sai ti''ii of Major li; terminus for the isthmus from the river fulls into the oil the Pacific to t pused to be run on licnce to Chipegua in 1879. '^ho S.W. limit of an oblong shapi i" circumference ; froiji the former b projcfUon into the tastcin e.xtreiiiity oi t"e westward, and i: There is a stone tow '^'^ the northward t« the northward an scarcely broken by t »u'iy and shallow la ■-■y^m,t. VKNTORA n.VY. W const of Ohinpns, open to foreimi coinmiTc'c, and proposed to conRtniot n \s harf for the UNO of the iniiil stuitiuerH which hero hhip cueao, coH'ee, &{j. Aueordin;; to the chart, Moconusco bar is in lat. 15^ 2J' N., but we Lave uo particulars of the anchorof^c. About 17 miles inland, in Int. 16^ 0' N., is Soconusco volcano, about 5,000 ft. hif;h. Capt. W. II. Parker Htates that near Ttmnln Hur liie uliore should liiive n berth of at least 4 miles. To tho westward of thi.s bar there are luuueruus (Uuiched huts, and three villages, tho fust near San Francisco Bar. A remarkable hill, marked with white stripes of sand, lies 2 miles Kast of tho latter bar, and at 5 miles westward of the bar is tlie village of Santa Maria del Mar, with a couspicuous church, 7 miles beyond which is tho village of Sail Mateo. Boca Barra, or San Francisco Bar, as above said, is tho outlet of tho e.xti'iisive lakes which lie just within the lino of sandy beach at the head of the Gulf of Tehuantepec, and is in about lat. Ifi-' l.'V N., long. 94^ 45 W. .-Vccording to Mr. Trastour's survey, the Boca Harra • .; 500 ft. wide, with a least depth of 7 to 10 ft., but tho current sots out of it with great velocity. Mr. Trastour, on November 'Jth, 1850, at llj*", found it to run out at the rate of 7. J miles an hour. Tho sea breaks a mile from the shore, making the entrance impracticable. VENTOSA BAY, the harbour of Tehuantepec, is in lat 16° 11' N., and long. 95" 8' W., about 22 miles westward of the Boca Barm, the narrow beach being low and sandy. The enviroas were carefully surveyed, under the direc- li(in of Major Barnard, in December, ISoi by Mr. P. E. Trastour, C.K., as a terminus for the Tehuantepec liailway, \ ich was proposed to cross tho isthmus from the upper course of the Gofusacoaleos River at Minatitlan. This river falls into the (iulf of Mexico, and the railway wa.s proposed to terminate un the Pacific to the north-eastward of the Morro, from which a pier was pro- posed to be run out for one-sixth of a mile into 6J fathoms. The coast from hence to Chipegua Point was surveyed by the officers of the U.S.S. I'uscarora, in 1879. The S.W. limit of the bay is formed by the Cerro Morro, an isolated rock of an oblong shape, rounded at the summit, about 150 ft. high and 2,600 ft. ill circumference ; and a little more to the South by a pointed rock, separated from the former by an interval fdled in with sand, and forming an angular jirojection into the sea called the Murro or Fentosa Point. This point is tho eibtcni e.xtreinity of a line of rocky hills which forms tlie coast for a mile to tiie westward, and is the termination of a spur from the Cordillera of Oa.xaca. There is a stone tower on the point, with a Hagstaff near it. Tu tlie northward of the Cerro Morro is the sandy beach, which trends first to the northward and then eastward, the seaward limits of an extensive plain, scarcely broken by the isolated hillocks of Iluazoatlan. This beach is cut by saudy and shallow lagoons, having several outlets into the sea, and by the bed iii > ■ 1:1 U it: {;< . ,4^1 fii' I, ., I 88 THE WEST COAST OF MEXICO. of the Tcl.iantcpcc River. At the time of the periodical overflowing this current flows over a low country before reaching the ocean, which it docs by its mouth, about three-quarters of a mile northward of the Morro. It appears to have good holding ground, the depth being 6 to 9 fathoms, sandy clay bottom. The greatest difference in the level of the water observed was 6J ft. Ships ride sheltered under tho Morro, the bay being open to South and East, allowing vessels to have ingress and egress, irrespective of the quarter from which the wind blows. The bay, however, is said to be shoaling. The N.N.H wind commences in the middle of October, and ceases early in April. It is at its height, and blows without interruption in November, but after this it is not so regular, and gradually ceases altogether. If the summits of the mountains of Guichicovi and San Miguel Chimalapn, about 45 miles distant to the North and N.E., but visible from sea, are hidden by slate-coloured vapour at sundown, the northers will blow next day. If these mists are seen at the former hour on the southern horizon, the S.S.W. wind will blow on the following day. Salina Cruz Bay lies to the westward of the hills extending from the Morro of La Ventosa. From the termination of that group of high lands the sandy beach of Salina Cruz trends westward for about IJ mile, and bending to tho southward terminates at Salina Cruz Point, a rocky projection off which arc several clusters of rocks, above and under water, to the extent of IJ cable, but the water is deep, 8 and 9 fathoms, just outside of them. In tlie bay the depth increases from 4 fathoms near the shore to 8 and 10 fatlioms at 3 cables fnnu the sandy beach. At a quarter of a mile North of the point, at the foot o*" tlic high ground, is a spring. The village lies in the N.W. part of the bay, and is connected with Tchuantepec by a road, and tht» mail steamers make it a j)ort of call. The anchorage is good and well sheltered, and it is proposed to con- struct a mole, to extend 3 or 4 cables eastward of Salina Cruz Point. The tele- graph cable connecting Mexico with Panama is landed here. Salina del MarqncB lies to the westward of Salina Cruz, and is similarly formed, about 2 miles in extent, with lagoons at the back of the strand. Concjo Bay, *,a the westward, is divided from Salina Marcpics Ray by the Morro de Salina Marques, a hill 297 ft. high on a projecting point. Coni'Jo Bay is 2 J miles wide, and from its eastern point tho coast trends 1 mile S.W. by W. to Punta de Guela-ijiehi, the eastern point of Chipcgua Iky, The town of TEiiuANXErLC is about 11 miles in direct distance northwmd om the beach of Ventosa and Salina Cruz Bays. It has a population of about 8,000, and has several churches and a modern college. Chipegtia Bay is 5^ miles in breadth between Punta de Guela-giehi and xHinta de Chipcgua, and nearly half a mile N.E. of the latter point is a small rock, 10 to 15 ft. high, the depth between it and the northern part of tho point being from 1} to 4 fathoms, and westward of it arc heavy breakers. There is anchorage in 7 or S futhom.s, at 7 cables N.W. by N. \ \. from tin- lock. Accc l()?)g. 95° 2i of tho railw I'he coast following ac from the Na The Bay tion is by C long. 93'' 28' tlie coast run lilufl' headlnn( and afford nc called the Baj ward it shows jocting out fro double head. hare of vegeta ther inland, bei a few of wliicl trees and bushc of the Bay of I] ii" Punta de Zi; P'lnta de Zipejj showing throng shore from 2 to -i to ,3 miles po ■iml distant fron ^'ipi'i/ua, or Mac (i')n is from 60 U IvN'.E. and W.S. what can be see ''"'l^^s (?) distant, close to the reef. bv tiio divers in /^'Vcgua toward T The beach, or / t" land (m with .a than was very agr( hlowing along the beach, in 9 fathom The tforro Ayi li.v the U.S. survey North Pucifi BAY OF BAMBA— MORRO AYUCA. 89 rock. According to the U.S. survey Puita de Chipcgua is in hit. 16° 1' 20" N., long. 95° 22' 30" W. It has been proposed to make this the Pacific terminus of the railway across the isthmus of Tehuantepec. The coast beyond this to the W.S.W. is very little known, but we have the following accounts of two landi'ig-placcs between Salina Cruz and Guatulco, from the Nautical Magazine (1839), as related by Capt. Peter Masters. The Bay of Bamba does not appear on the chart 'J"hc following descrip- tion is by Capt. Masters: — Punta de Zipcgua (Chipcgua) is in lat. 10° I' N., long. 95° 28' 30' W. (?). From this point to the Morro de Ystapa (Ayuca) the coast runs about ^V.N.^V. by compass. Between these points are several bluff headlands, which do not project far out from the general line of coast, and afford no shelter. I'unta de Zipcgua forms the eastern part of what is c;illcd the Bay of Bamba, and is a very rcmnrkable headland. From the west- ward it shows itself with a bold dark cliff to the sea, about 100 ft. high, pro- jecting out from the western line of coast nearly a mile, and forming a kind of (Inuble head. A short distance within the outer bluff is a peaked hill, quite bare of vegetation, with the appearance of a light-coloured eandstone. Fur- ther inland, between 1 and 2 miles, the ground rises higher in small hummocks, a few of which are quite bare, and others have a small (luantity of stunted trees and bushes scattered over them. The head which forms the West side (if the Bay of Bamba is not so high, nor docs it rise so suddenly from the sea as Punta de Zipcgua. It is also covered with bushes. The eastcru side of I'linta de Zipcgua is covered with bushes and stunted trees : the sand only showing through the soil in very few places. When abreast of it, and off shore from 2 to 8 miles, the current was running to windward, W.S.W., from '2.J to 3 miles per hour. About N.E., by compass, from the Ptmta de Zijiegua, ami distant from 4 to 5 miles (?), is a high reef of rocks, called Vitdra de lipejiua, or Miichaynista, in the chart. Island of h'schcvan. Its greatest eleva- tion is from 60 to 70 ft. ; its length is about a third of a mile, running in an !',.N.K. and W.S.W. direction. It is said there are no dan;;orii near it but what can be seen. Between it and the main, from whieu it is about 4 miles (?) distant, in a N.W. direction, there is good anchorage ; the best is close to the reef. The pearl oysters are plentiful near this reef, and are caught by the divers in the rainy season. The general line of coast from Punta de Zl|)Pgua toward Tehuantepec runs about N.E. by N., easterly. 'I'he beach, or Pluya de liamha, is about 5 miles long, and must be very bad td land on with a fresh sea-breeze. There was more surf on it when wc landed than was very agreeable. The boat was half filled, although the wind was blowing along the coast. Wc came to anclior abreast the western part of the beach, in 9 fathoms, sandy bottom, offshore IJ mile. The Morro Ayuca, Aytda, or de Santiayo de Ystapa according to Musters, by the U.S. survey of 1879 is in lat. 15° 52' N., long. 95'-' 4G' 44' W. It is a North Pacific. n ' *" 1 % y ! i ■■ ,t ! i ■Hi . /■ ■ : it '' . , 'lT ; I 90 THE WEST COAST OF MEXICO. bold oliffy point, surrounded by a reef, which has 3 nnd 4 fatlioms close to it, and extending on the northern side about 1 J cable's length, some of the rocks being always visible. The bay, about 1 i mile in extent, has a low sandy shove, nnd vessels may anchor in 6 or 7 fathoms, fine sand, at three-quarters of a mile off, but only with northerly winds. Near the Morro is the entrance of the small river of Ayuta, the stream that runs by Ilaumilulu and Ystapa. There is a bar across its entrance. The canoes land on the beach in preference to going over it, as this is attended with danger. A few miles to the westward is the Morro de la Lagunn, near which is a large lake, from which the headland takes its name. Bay of Rosario. — The following description, and directions for this bny, are by Capt. Masters : — The West side of the Bay of Eosario is formed by the Morro de las Salinas de Rosario, and is in lat. 15° 50' 25" N., long. 96° 2' W. (?), by four .sets of lunars taken East and West of the moon. It projects about a mile beyond the line of coast. On the western side is a beach 4 or 5 miles in length to the next head. When abreast of Morro do las Salinas it appears like an island with two large rocks abreast of its eawtcrn and western part, but the whole is connected to the main ; what appears to be the eastern rock lieing a broken rocky head, iibout 100 ft. high. The western one is about half the elevation. Both these heads terminate with a broken cliff; the tops of them are bare, and of greyish colour ; the lower part is quite black, caused by the sea washing against them. Between these heads is a small sandy bay, at the foot of the Morro, which rises gradually from the beach to the top of the hill, nnd is about 180 to 200 ft. high. It has a few straggling bushes on it, but its general ap])earance is very barren. The beach of Rosario is 10 miles long from Morro de las Salinas to Morro de la Laguna Grande, which is its eastern extremity. About half the distance between the Morros is a rock on tlip •"•icli, (il, ut 40 ft. high, and nearly the same diameter; at spring tides tlio wa'ev ' s round it. » »' g the time of our lying in the Bay of Rosario, which was from the r2th of February to the 1st of April, wo had three .smart northers. These came on at the full and change of the moon. At this time the surf runs very heavy on the beach ; our boat was capsized several times wliilst we lay licre, in landing and coming off. At times the sea broke very heavily in all pint* of the bay, that is, on the beach. I was caught on shore, a few days alter arriving here, during the first norther, which came on suddenly with a parchini; hot wind. A cross, confused sea hove in from the South and N.K. The iiiil must have blown strong out in the gulf, from the .same direction, and thouirli it blew very heavily for three dayn, with the wind at times to the westward if North, the sea kept a\i until some time after the norther had ceased hlowiiv This is nut generally the ease, lor a str.ing nortlier ^anil in particular if it viih veiY 1 here after ! • iiul Lrd > i liw'iiv: THE BAY OF IIOSARIO. to N XW.) bents the sea down, at which time landing is attended with little or no risk, which was the case when we had the last two northers. I was informed (and judging from appearances I think correctly) that very often when the wind is North, or N.N.W., close in shore, it is N.E. in the offing, which makes it impossible to land on the coast. I remarked whilst lying hero, nt the full and change of the moon, when no norther was blowing, that ulthough the surf ran so high that no boat could land, the vessel lay without any motion. We were moored less than 300 fathjnii from the shore. The surf appeared not to be caused by a swell rolling in, and agitating the sea at the surface, but to rise from below, and without a^iy apparent cause, as we had iigh-t winds and fine weather the most of che time we lay here. On another occasion I was caught on shore with a boat's crew for three days. In attempting to get off to the ship, the boat was capsized and stove. It was then, and had b»vn ;). a week previous, nearly a calm. The hea^'y ground- swell in varia l" )» from the 8.S.W. We fortunately escaped from this beach withoii Jini; aay of our people, which was more than I expected, having had three laid up at different times, who were saved from being drowned by a mere chance. In addition to what has already been said about this part of the coast, it can b(j known by the low land at the back of the beach of llosario. This runs in flora 1 to 2J leagues before there is much rise in it, and is thickly covered wiih trees. From North to N.W. of Morro de las Salinas, nearly 2 leagues from the shore, the rising ground is formed by a number of small barren hillocks. From our anchorage, where we loaded, the following bearings were talan, lying in 9J fathoms water, sandy bottom. There are two large jwtehes of a whitish appearance, the farthest range of the Cordilleras ; the eastern is the lowest, and bore N. 59 J" W. Th.' appearance cannot be seen, unless from a little to the westward of Morrc i.^ l;\s Salinas. This has every appenranee of being a waterfall, and rises f ira tho other patch in a N.W. direction at about an angle of 45^". It isi-.ie;- f' i . ; s^inall valley in the Cerro del Chonga. The highest point of this ri. i^r' ' '. u.^t a small elevation above it, and is covered with trees. The waterfa)' 'iclhu s towards the South, and can be iiceu descending for several hundred ii' ! itfore it is lost sight of amidst the forest below. Cerro de Zadnn bore *J. 89" W., and the extreme bluff of Morro de las Salinas, S. 36" W., 3^ ir.les. The eastern point well within the liiiirings, and I'unta de la Laguna 'irande, N. 71" E., (J to 7 miles ; the rock K\ the beach (already mentioned ab 40 ft. high), N. 65"^ E. ; and the galena or shed, under which the cargr, was piled, N. 26° W., half a mile ; bearings by compass. At the western part of the Iv are four palm trees close to the beach. The distance from the Morro de ! j -'''jip? is about half a mile, and between these ■ms and the Morro is a larger fiu-v^r of j idms. Hetween these two clusters It all timcj the best place to huid, us a boat can beaeh iicie with compara- f \ a 92 THE WEST COAST OF MEXICO. tive safety, when at every other part of the bay the sea runs very heavy. At the neaps we found the place quite smooth, with the exception of a sea heaving in at about every 10 or 15 minutes; but it causes no risk to a boat provided she is kept end on. At the south -v.iistern part of the beach, and where n small pathway leads to cross the Morro de Salinas, close to the sea-side, in the clifiF of a rock, is a small spring of excellent water. We always found it clear and cool, even at noon ; my consignee said we could fill the ship's stock of water fri)m it with dispatch, but I soon found out that he knew nothing about it. The quantity that could be filled in a day did not exceed 30 gallons, and after having landed all , our water-casks we had to re-ship them, through a great deal of surf, and land them at the galena abi ;' ^lic ship. We filled our water at a well about a mile from the beach, but t ily was very limited; it being the only well that had water in it up to . day of our sailing, we did no. complete our stock. A captain of a ship should trust to no promises when he comes here, either with regard to supplies or anything else, no matter by whom made ; and, as water and fuel are indispensable articles, the filling the one, and cutting the other, should bo commenced immediately on their arrival by some of the crew. It is useless to employ Indians to work for the ship (that is, on shore), tlic greatest part of them will neither be led nor driven. On board they answer better (that is, a few of them) to haul the wood about in the hold. I found tho proiuisos of Indians, and, as they called themselves, " (/enic decente i/ ciiii/izado," on a par. From the Bay of Rosario to the Island of Tangolatangola there arc several small headlands, which do not project much beyond the general line of coast, with the exception of Morro de las Salinas do Rosario. Most of them have a steep elilF facing the sea, with fine sandy beaches between them ; at the back of which arc scattered a few small trees and bushes, the land rising in very irregular-shaped hills toward the Cordilleras. Abreast of the beaches, between the heads, the anchorage is quite clear, and when in from 9 to 12 fathoms water the distance off shore is about a mile, with sandy bottom. The Island o/ I'unyulataiKjola is thus mentioned by Danipier : — "At the small high island of Tangola there is good anchorage. The island is iiiilif- forcntly well furnished with wood and water. The main against the island i^ pretty high champion savannah land, by the sea ; but 2 or 3 leagues witliiii the land it is higher, and very woody." Capt. Masters describes it thus : — " The Island of Tangolatangola is E.N.E, 3 miles from Guatidco, and makes from the westward as a part of the niai:i land ; the outer part of it is quite bluff, or rather a cliff of a brownish slom. the strata of wliicb are horizontal, and it has the same geological appearance i tiic land on the main nearest it to tlie N.lv, and of tho same height, wmw. about 150 ft. Witliin tho island, and Kiund the western side, is the cntiiiihi of (lie beach tuJco." Aecc Tuscun ehaimel t'-Ktend t I'etweon about mi( continui'i,, '^"hc /iVi ^■i" into ti "ioutli. About 8 point of ,S«, Wanca. 'i'j tJt'J'th \;ii-ics t'le shore. POBr GD sfcmc h.irbo, I'ofat. TJjc o, ""w-quarters i«'t- Thodej '''"'onis at its J fhe beach at t\ Jt is li/gi, ^vatc'i lAirnpier's clj the best ports i^j "le harbour, on I »" » ^zz::: :;;;- -' -^^ POET GUAmC0.bc, .o ,bo . "■"■.'W.o.. l<"»>. .le el,,„„ol bot„.oo„ boi„,. ;,,,t,, '""' ' """=' ''■■^■''- of Puoto ;-•■ ^'^■''l'". Sra.ua,,, .b„rk„, ''1'^ """° ""»"" "' '" "-o"- '■ ; '"■.'. ya,o,, „u fu,,!:: : o::,'4r;: ?- ^- ■»« »" r ;: :;■ i-fll 7 ""•■ «'■=»' "lo, half a „,i,o f„„ °Z J"° "!"'•' "'••' H 'he .horo ■ „„° i-i«w „,ok, ,.„io„, b, .1,0 oo„rua,': " " ^ 1 T ""■'«»"■• "■"» " " Lr ;;'"' "».»""'' out of a U,t,o h„,o o" nil": "'"J ™'e» «l«t com™ i„ • «.o^ ou, „« ,ito He b,„™^, „f „ j; . '»f • "» °« of a „i,,o. f„„, „,h„,^.^. «■ '-y o.,l ,|,i, „o,. and spouVtl'b ;?''''•■''''"'"•*»'» .ikon '* .»"»„, ,„at,-„s ,bo waurs,,,, „ f " "■"""" "■«""» 'ho c" i ' ' . Pa .!■ 'J l%> ■ 1 i .1 <'ir * H f 1 t yA "• i !'-• U<>! \ 1 <, u;.' * / u 1^1 ^ i H \ ifl i I * \ \w ':-i ;/»■■! 04 THE WEST COAST OF MEXICO. ill iii I r:',t ■ ' i 1 j i ' 1 i 1 i { I iij.. "The harbour runs in N W., but the West side of the harbour is best to ride in for small ships, for there you may ride land-locked, whereas anywhere else you arc o|)en to the S.W. winds, which often blow here. There is good clean ground anywhere, and good gradual soundings from 1 6 to 6 fathoms ; it is bounded by a smooth, sandy shore, very good to land at, and at the bottom of the harbour there is a fine brook of fresh water running into the sea. Here formerly stood a small Spanish town or village, which was taken by Sir Francis Drake ; but now there is nothing remaining of it besides a little chapel si .d- ing among the trees, about 200 paces from the sea."* The following remarks, by Capt. Masters, will complete the description : — Santa Cruz, Port of Aguatulco ( Gua(ulco), is very difficult to make ; it is situated in a small bay, at the bottom of which is a sandy beach ; on its eastern part two huts are built, not visible unless close in-shore. The Piedra Ulanca is a reef of rocks extending N.E. by E. and S.W. by W. about a quarter of a mile ; the western part of the reef is nearly 40 ft. high, and for about one-third of its length it is of the same elevation ; but the remaining two-thirds to the eastward is low, in places level with the water. When abreast of it and off shore a few miles, it appears to be a part of the coast. Although it is called Piedra Blanca, it is a dark irregular-shaped reef of rocks. The anchorage in Guatulco is said to be good. It is well sheltered from all winds, except between East and S.E. by S. ; but, as the strongest winds blow from the northward, except in the rainy season, it may be considered a very safe port. It is the only place that can be considered a harbour to the eastward of Acapulco, and even in the rainy season I was informed that a vessel might lay there in perfect safety. The depth of water in the bay is Irom 7 to 9 fathoms, with a clear bottom. When about 5 miles off the shore from the Bufaderc, the western extreme point of land has a broken rocky appearance, and is not so high as the land adjoining. When about 2 leagues off shore from the Ijufadero, another cape, farther to the westward, can be seen. Its extreme point is rather low, but rises gradually inl;ind to a moderate elevation. To the westward of Santa Cruz are two bluff heads, which, when abreast of them, might be taken for islands. The first is about 3 miles from the port, the other is 2 miles farther to the westward, and has a white sandy beach, from a long distance. They aro also seen, too, lit times, urouiiJ the basea of icebergs, and there was one, the Devil's Trumpet, on the coast of UornwuU. Other instances, less striking, might be adduced of those singuhirities, which are well worthy of a soiinian's iitti,nti().n, showinji;, as they do, the power the waves exert, which, to raise such a column of water U3 above mentioned, must bo from 3 to 5 tons per square foot. • (ruatulco seems to have been an unfortunate place during the buccaneering expeditions against the Spaniards, for Sir Francis Drake sacked the place in 1674, and it was burnt in 1S87 by Sir Thomas Cavendish, aiiuuig other places. The reader will tiud oiany notices of lliose uud similar incidents in Admiriil Duruoy's coUtctiuu, WjiR./, I tho 0()a.< /oaj^-ues, and n rk diUerns. ''"e niou, '">fi, as ti 'i'ho I>o, n fortni^^ht ""t i'assed «hich were "'cy arc bui ■^f about I "'"'"t ■•» qiiav ''■1.V to the -\v ''■'"i i-oefcs. "'« ''q'th is a '"» '^'orth, she nt 3^5-; the '^' 2^ cab/es "■'f'"H-t.over ''"'^ point is an ™'"''>R from the "■'■•''"•a'd of the '^''"^ '«nd wind ^'JmetmicsatS.^l ^^'esfvvard of d "''"'^'i to the ford "'''"'^^' fays, off ";"°'''---"itis "'.'•"" must he or '-"'•'Sfl-.thoms.' ;7-n tra,,e ,wJ ■■' "'"^ tJ'c ebb tj [ , • 's"> the CM „,,. i''""y s,av,.„J ., ■-'^''"■^•" miJos J «(t shore. T(,„ I ij 'hecoasti ^vl.ich to the nufatj.ro the " •i'ho mountains aZt "" "' '^""^^^'^ '^bove the st ' f '^^ '""^« °f the Co"' '■'■^"•. - the, cants ?"" '"■^''^'- -'-" ea„„o bo ^ ^ "' ''"" ''«««« "^"■•-■■.'hti„.oarehi„;;V/'^dto.a,.ethat vessels have he -^ P"««ed it. although we V ''"' ''^ '''^ ^''^^test chan "^^'^'-'^^ ^^ ^^'"^h were on the beach ""* '* '"''^ f^m th! k ^"'^'''^^ ^'^ had t'.ey are huiU. "^' ^"" ^^^^'^ ^^ ^i^tfngni^^^ „:^-- '^'^« ^- huts /^•^•^outen^nes WestofGu . , '^^ ^'^'^ *-- near which n''o..t a quarter of a „„'! , "''" '^ =» «™«" green isl. , , '^y ^o the West of th i , It;"" '* -h,e off tt ^"'^ ^"^^ '^-->/.. "■'■"■ '"^ks. The her u ' ^"' '^^ "''^nd is surr. ?f ' ^^'''^ '' « small "•^ "^Tth is aL; ;:7f r^ '"^ ^— ; rd'::',^. ''- ^^- "-" '■"»" ^orth, sheltered from T' "'^' ^^^ ^'"ff at th ; , "^' ""■"• -^--e ~»ns from the „„, 'J ? ": °™' '•■ The p„„ ;, ,^^> ^J » «■ from ,l,e ""•»'o ^ if "1'™^'' to the foroi. n ' f ' ^'^'^''' the port for •"' '" °" ^'^^ «hore '"'" °^ '^ •-" It is a br d : ''T '■'" ^°"o-in,f i ;^T;' "'" "« ' ^ n.iles ^*' There is ^ood ..T ^''" ''"J' "''th two or t, ^^^^U^er's descrin. ::'T ""- CrttZini"^-^^ ^"^ '^y ^" ^vtor^fa:: '''^" ^^'- '-- ''^ fatho„,s ; 3-0,. ,vill tl ''''^' ''•'^ '■•'"-h wnfo- nu ■ "* ""« is a sinnll Jlxre are 1,0 dan-ers in \ 1 *^ "''''<^'' '« the town nf a , ' it is understood that its l»f;. / *'' ""* ^''^ situation of this hn^K . f, '" '" latitude IS 16^ 50' AT j , narbour, Mhcn lo% promontory, which maintains its heU;' f ''"' '' " ^"'"^^d ou by a -thout any low land; this high Cd "' " ,°'"^*"^" *« »'- very s'„ ■l™p. i-reoipioe facing .|,t T™'"' "» » l»p.. Ih Is fiT ' ' ^^'^Ja'^d between this aad ' ' ' h^ i v ' f ill, 1 too TIIK WKST COAST OF MEXICO. * mm : ' 1 '- ^ 1 '1 "I ' '( ") i 1 i ''■' 'I ': Arapuico Rin\.