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THK

NORTH PACIFIC

OCEAN

PREvALt NT

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NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN

COASTS, ISLANDS, ETC.,
PANAMA TO imm^a STRAIT.

ANn

ITS WINDS, CURRFVTQ Avn t.

v^uitKLAjb, A^D Passages.

THIRD EDITION.

BY ALEXANDER OEoi^^TTj^^ .

PUBLISHED BY r/;?S „

I'KEET, EC.

1886.

WTEMD AT SliSii;^

HAIL.

r„KFACE TO T,„.; SECOND EDITIOy.

>- -ore „,..„ ,,,„ ,, .J; 7'"' ""- ■" "" .- '- .hi, dunge

T-.y yc„ ,,„ c.„r„n,u 17 """'", '"" "'""" "''^«" °-"-

-"'on. U,,,U.^ l^T":"" '^""'^ ''"'" ■■■-

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'- - »a,.„. Ku.ia„C :;:'.'•■*•■*''•"-'•»-•"■-, .a.™.,
'"8« i„ ,h, „„„j, „^.^^ J '^ "» g'o,, river Amur, „„» „f ,h,

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""'^ vWeed „„ rare .,,.„,„ ,„, ^ !. ? " ' '"" '^••"""' "«

Foduccd, H„„ all m is c,,a,„ed "^"" " Wol,e.de.„,ar .hey

Hit- vast extension of Steam „ • .

P'oi'oi.^^ ; .he e.ahl.h, ™ :r"" "' '"" "■"°""""'" °'"- -»
onhe,„,d.«. ,, We,.er : ;r':r'^''"''''^^ '"o «ove..,p„.e„.
--o>«. or ,,. s.a,e Of Cal,;™ a 1 ""'"'' "'■" '""-"--on.

Cl.".a and ;a„a„ .„ .he >,„rid. J^, ' T'"" "' ""■ "" ""'"''^^ "f
"-«o coa., hy .l,era„„,, ^Z^^'^^' "■' ""'•"" '^ '"^ A.I.,..,, .,„
«»i'»ay .„ sa„ KraneiJ. r ""■""'^""''--.and.heiVi.ic

«-ia„TerrUor„„A,„er,,: .he ::" T ""^ ^*^^ ^-'^ "' ...o
-n. Of .he e„„,„,eree wi.h .h; ,a, '"'"' "'«»'"»■'■'" -^ "ovelo,,.
«'K^.o» i., an .uar.er,,ha etal.:;: "'""*«'- -i'-O"-

"54-1 5

ill

If PREFACE.

countries described in this volume, tliat the chanp;e is astonishing when it
it considered in how short a period it has been effected.

The present work then refers to a much more important subject than
was the case with the preceding edition ; and, with its increase of interest,
the improved knowledge of its hydrography will be found to have kept
pace. As stated in the introduction to the South Pacific Directory, this
edition is differently arranged to the first. In that, the first part referred
to the coasts, the second to the islands of the Pacific Ocean. These later
editions separate the oceans by the Equator, and each volume describes
the area North or South of it, and is thus complete in itself, although they
are supplementary to each other.

It is scarcely necessary to recount the steps which have been made in
our knowledge of the Pacific and its coasts. Up to a very recent time the
recital of each voyage was a talo of discovery and adventure. Many of
them are familiar household stories. Captain Cook's voyage is scarcely
forgotten as a narrative ; yet not a century since he commenced the real
work of correctly describing the Pacific. The voyages and 8ur\'eys of
Vancouver, 1791 to 1794, arc still the best authority for the coasts of Alaska
and British Columbia. At the same period the Spaniards had sent the
well known commanders Galiano and Valdes, and also the unfortunate
Malaspina, and his companion Dustamcnte ; these are deserving of all good
mention. They examined much of the Western coast of America.

Admiral Kruscnstcrtiy the hydrographer of the Pacific, follows next in
order, and he fiist gave a correct notion of Japan, Okhotsk, and the ad-
jacent parts of Asia (in 1803 — 1806) ; and, most important of all, has left
an invaluable and noble work on the Pacific (1824, 1827), to which very
many of the subsequent pages are indebted.

To another Russian officer, Captain Frdddric Lutkc, we still are almost
solely indebted for what we know of the inclement Sea of Behring, and
of much of the Caroline Archipelago. A third. Otto Von Kotzchue, was
sent by the Russian Government to the North Pacific in 1815 — 1818, and
surveyed the Marshall Islands and other parts.

Of our own countrymen, in later times, the late Admiral Frederick
William Bccchey, slaiuis prominent. Ilia voyage in the Blomotn, 1826 —

,»., ■ ■ ''REPACK.

"• " '" • "ten"* pomt of vie- „„„,.. »

-"■ '.l.nd., ,h„ u..h„ ,„.„j. ;~«_ "'-y^i BchH„« s,r.,-,,,H. s,„j.
■»35.., «.i„ .„„, , .,„ ,.^. ; * ■ ^•-- °.n,™„a„ .„„„„,. . ,
'««gn«i hi. co„„„„d ,„ c„„/, ., ■• **•*"'■ k"' W„g invalid.,!, he

'""■)' P''«»- '^ ' ""' ''««™ining the p„,„i„. ^,

0">i«.ng m.„^ „,.„„ ,

^W„ ,p,„„, „^. ^;^ Z^'C'^": "«"'-' under Co.„ed..
n-d no, ,0 be further ,ll„j,j ,„ " '"'''""»"' '""eying «,„.j,„„

Later than thi, „„ may notice .h

^r. S„>^» ^ y «« .'.e Arcie Sea, a. chronid.,, by

-knoH^ged a, onr an.hori'il; ""' °""^ ""^ "--^ - d„,y

Since the period when fh« r

-«e..rorea,,„ded;ot:r:rr""'"''^"-----

NO"- Pacifie. Cotnntencing „ith ^n, T """'"" '"'"""« °" "•«
'ke -or. Of Captain ^. ^J„ JoHb Iw ^^^^ "' - '"^ - of

Veragna,,in '854. and of the observation, of ^Tt' °" "" "'"""^ °'
corvette Z«5.,„,„^„„ ' °' ^■^''^-A*,, of the French

On the cession by treaty of the C,I7 ■
S...03, .hat Government inr^diate y*':" '""""^ '" "" ''""^
better kno»,«,ge of i,, coasts, and the 1"?"" "'^" '" '«'"■- '
".rectory drawn „p by Assistant G„ n T """ '™ "^ !*''«,
•nd observations of the US. Coast sf ''■^•''- ''""" ""■ '""ey

vi I'KKFACE.

ThcM! directioiiit, aunprUcd in Chapter IV ,arc invaluable, and embody all
previous olwcr vat ions.

The shores of Juan de P'uca Strait were surveyed hy Captair Kellttt in
|)<47. Vancouver's work >upplies the basix ot our present knowledge of the
inlets to the S.E. of it.

Vancouver*!! Island and the adjacent shores of the continent were ad-
mirably and minutely surveyed by Captain (i. II. Richards, K.N., C.B.,
1850 — 1M65, assisted by several meritorious officers, of whom Captain A'. C.
Aliivuf and Messrs. J, A. Hull and I>. render may be mentioned. The
Vancouver Island Pilot, drawn up from the observations thus collected,
forms the basis of Chapters V. and VI. It will be seen that we have
added many im|)ortant details from the very interesting works of Lord
Afilhti, Captain Afaym; Mr. Whymper., and other adven,.urous and recent
travellers. To the North of this Vancouver's work stdl remains the chief
authority.

Of Alaska, the older authorities arc still the chief, but of the Sitka Archi-
pelago the Russian officers have m.-'.de much bettc charts, published in
1S48 — 1850, chiefly from the surveys of Capt. Yassilicff. Of the remainder
of the territory of Alaska it is gratifying to find that our first edition is still
considered to be useful, for the United States' Government have recently
reprinted that portion as a guide for their newly acquired territory.

Proceeding to the north-west, the chief advances made in the hydro-
graphy arose out of the French and English Exjieditions to China in
1854-7, and, for the new Russian possessions, their surveys of 1849 — 185J
Our knowledge of Japa'i has greatly and rapidly improved. It may be
said to have commenced with Commodore Pcrr/s U.S. Expedition in
1M53-4. The singular circumstances related on pages 782-783 as to a re-
markable and excellent native map, will be of great interest. It was drawn
up by the astronomer Takapasi Lakusiiiinon, who destroyed himself when
it was discovered that he had furnished a copy to a European resident.
This has served in many parts as a basis of our knowledge, and this, with
the surveys of Commanders Ward and liruokcr, R.N., and especially of
Commander Charles Bullock, R.N., will api)ear as exact and perfect repre-
sentations of the places of greatest i merest.

Oil
the
the dl
from I

To I

i'krfacf: vII

Ot the i>lan(Is ami arthi|>claK<»c^ wliith arc dispcrwcl over the surface <»f
the North Pacific we cannut !<pcak hurc in detail. Thuir ivnitioiis and
the iluscriptioiis of their characteristics are derived in each case frequently
from many sources, which are duly stateil.

To the authorities here enumeratcil, and to many f)thers whov; nhscrva-
tion> are distribulctl throughout the following pages, our especial thanks
and acknowledgment > are rendered.

This volume has Ixx-n long delayed. Many avocations have prevented
the author till now from devoting that time to it which the imiwrtancc of
its topics would command. However, in now offering it to the nautical
world, he trusts that no source of information has Ixx'n c v iMoke<l, and
that the book will be found to be deserving of their confidence. It is the
last of a series of six volumes bearing the Editor's name, whicii comprehend
a description of the whole ocean-world. And thus com ' .ling his la>i urs,
he would express the gratification it has been through many years to
collect and \ua ge the materials thus submitted.

A. G. FINPT.AY

London, Sfptemhrr ist, 1870.

':^h

ii..>.

Since the foregoing Preface was written many changes have taken place,
as in other parts of the world, on the coasts and islands of the North i'acific
Ocean. The great extension of steam and railway communication on the
North American continent, and the opening up of coal deposits in various
parts, has led to the settlement of new districts, and the rising up of
flourishing towns and villages in places which were almost unvisited at the
period when the previous edition of this work was published. Our knowledge
of the Coasts, Islands, and Archii>clagoc8, has also been much inoreosed by
the researches of Nautical Surveyors and others, who arc mentioned in the
introductory remarks at the commencement of each Chapter and in the Notes.
The incorporation of the mass of information thus available has led to a
material increase in the sixe of the Work, and it is trusted that no useful
source of information has been overlooked, to render it a worthy companion
of the Author's volumes on the other great Oceans.

VV. R. K.

London, January 1st, 1886.

\ •:

. ,■ '■ .' i .' ■• il '
^,J ■: X -♦*

■■^WW— WPI11>I P f l

CONTENTS.

SECTIOxN I.

PAGE

PREFACE tti

TABLE OF GEOGUAPIIICAL POSITIONS xL

SECTION IT.

Chaptku I.— the coast OF CENTRAL AMERICA 1—80

1. The Coabt of Colomiiia: Panama to Point Bvrica ,. 6

2. CoatoRica 81

3. Nicaragua 44

4. San Salvador ^ 04

6. Guatemala 75

Chapter IT.— THE WEST COAST OF MEXICO, betweejt

TEnuANTKPEC AND Mazatlan 81 — 126

Chapter III.— THE GULF AND PENINSULA OF LOWER

CALIFORNIA 127—203

Chapter IV.— THE COAST OF CALIFORNIA 204-276

Chapter V.— THE COAST OF OREGON, Ere, FROM

CHET-KO RIVER TO ADMIRALTY INLET 277-348

CONTEXTS.
""'" n.-VANCODVER ISLAND, BTC. --

<.'-™. ^" -«mm„ cotuMB,A, BTo. . . , """' ~

iHAPTER Vllr—TMP rti-.

,. 724- 776

'■"™.X,.-xn.MrAN.s.AHCHIPELAOO

777—917

SECTION III

The Gilbert Arelupelago 923-1027

Tho MarshaU Aix^hijwlago .."..".'* OSS

Tho Caroline Archipelago...... '.'.'.*.'' 050

The Palau or PoW laLuKU 870

^^i-ANDS "^ AIARIANA OK LADRoXfi

«ANDW,CH,sjSS ; ™E HAWAIIAN OR

'»(i2-ii6a

■^VA /"nr*

> I ^^

if. di

Pi '-^ '
111 * 1'' >

/■'

./■

X CONTENTS.

SECTION IV.

THE PHENOMENA OF, AND DIRECTIONS FOR
THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN.

Chapter XV.— THE WINDS OF THE NORTH PACIFIC i-aois

OCEAN 1166

Chaptek XVI.— the CURRENTS OF THE NORTH

PACIFIC OCEAN 1194

Chapter XVII. — I.— l. Tides, with Tidb Tablks 1219

2. Magai'tic Variation 1228

3. Ice 1229

II.— 1. Density of Ocewi Water 1280

2. Temperature 1231

3. Depth of the Ocean 1232

Chapter XVIII.— PASSAGES 1234

ALPHABETICAL INDEX 1268

ILLUSTRATIONS.

1. Prevalent Surface Currents To face Title

2. The Isthmus of Panama „ pagn 7

3. View of the Volcano of Coseguina „ 60

4. Sun Francisco Harbour „ 239

6. The Strait of Juan de Fuca, Admiralty Inlet, and Pug^t Sound „ 321

6. EKquimalt and Victoria Harbours , „ 397

7. View of Mount St. Elins „ 6.39

8. China and Japan 777

9. Seto Uchi, or Inland Sea of Japan „ 789

10. Approaches to the Bay of Yedo „ 825

11. The Hawaiian or Sandwich Inlands „ 1063

12. Honolulu Harbour , 1U96

13. View of Honolulu „ 1096

14. Winds of the North Pacific Ocean , 1166

15. Winds of the Central Pacific Ocean (40° N. to 45* S.) „ 1192

16. Currents and Whaling Grounds of the Pacific Ocean , 1196

17. Magnetic Variation and Dip, 1886 „ 1228

18. Bottom Chart , 1233

19. Passagi'S in the North Pacific Ocean , 1236

■P*

nULE

OF GWGjimiia

fOSITIO.Ys

I^' TifK

WTu PAcmc ocm.

im^^

Ih it;'.

41,.^* ■

••• Jtfuni

Oaracbine ]

I'atino Poin

Darion Harl

Brava Point

Pajaros Isliii

Sun Jose Ba

Oalera lalan

lala del liey

Oonz.tl. 8 leli

San Jose IhIi

Siibogu Isi^n

Pelailo l8lnn(

Chepillo Islai

PANAMA, C

N.E. bantifl

Flamenco Isli

Bona Island,

Point Chains,

Parita Bay, L

Iguana Island

Cape Mala, ea

Los Fruileg, S

Marittto Point

Montijo Bay,

Fast point o

Coiba Island

Hennosa or

Hicarita, Sout

Bahia Honda,

Contreras, Brii

Port Pueblo Ni

Perdo I

Secas Ibidrius, '

David Bay, Sai

Palenque Islan

Paridald,, wat(

Liidrones Islanc

MontuoBi, 8.E.

Burica Point, B

Gulf of Dulco, (

Punta Areniti

Sal-si-puedes P(

Point Llorena, t

Cano Island, \V(

Point m.ila

Uuepos Point

Mount Jiidiia

Port llerradura,

TABLE

GEOGRAPHICAL POSITIONS.

%• JUan^ of the position* here given are onhj

(iftproxitnate ; the h>njitndea haiv been corrected

from the lal

■xC Anlhoritiei.

Lftt.
North.

WCHt.

Authorities.

Page

CENTUAL AMERICA.

Oanchine Point, N.E. extreme -

, 1,

78 22 15

The Survey by
Capt. 11. Kellutt,

Patino Point, centre of islet

8 16

78 17 45

Darion Harbour, Graham Point

8 28 50

78 5 40

K.N., C.B., and

Brava Point, West exlrome

8 20 36

78 25 30

Com. .las. Wood,

Pajarofl Islands, N.W. Island -

.S 32 20

78 33 10

K.N., 1845-49.

Hun Jose Bank, TroUopu Uock •

8 6 40

78 38 50

Oalera Island, centre -

8 U 2(»

78 46 45

Isla del Key, extreme of Cocos Point

8 12 30

78 64 45

Gonz:>lt s Island, North ho:id

8 i.i ;iO

79 7 15

Han Jose Island, IgiiaDi Point -

8 18 2.5

79 7 30

Habi)gu Island, West point

8 37 10

79 4 50

Pula<lo Island, centre

8 37 3.5

78 42 30

y»

Chopillo Island, centre

8 66 32

79 8

■(

PANAMA, Cath., S.E. angle of S. tower -

8 67 C

79 32 12

Com. F.M.Oroen.

N.E. bastion ...

8 66 66

79 31 9

The Survey bv
Capt. H. Kolktl,

Flamenco Island, North point -

8 64 30

79 31 20

Bona Island, peak ...

8 34

79 35 5

iind Comm. J.

Point Cham6, extreme

8 39

79 41 30

Wood.

Parita Bay, Liso Point

8 68 10

80 21 60

Iguana Is and, centre

7 37 6

80 15

Cape Mala, extreme -

7 27 40

79 69 45

TiOH Frailes, South Rock

7 19 40

80 8 15

Marittto Point, 8.W. extreme -

7 12

80 62 45

Montijo Bay, 8.W. pt. of Golmrnador Id.-

7 32 16

81 12 45

East point of Cobaco Island -

7 33 30

81 1 45

Coiba Island, Damas Bay, Fc-a Peint •

7 23 45

81 37 25

Hermosa or West point

7 31 10

81 52 30

Hicarita, South point

7 12 30

81 46 60

Bahia Honda, Sentinela Island •

7 42 46

81 32

Contreras, Brincano Island, North point .

7 62

84 47 16

Port Pueblo Nuevo, Itocks of Magnetic I.-

8 4 39

81 48

Perdo Intrusa Island

8 4 64

81 43

De Kosencoat.

Secas Isxinus, La Bruga Uock -

7 59

81 58 45

Kellott&Wood.

Uavid Bay, Sai'no Island, South side

8 11 62

82 12 8

Do Uos'eiicoat

Palenque Island, Ucsr IsLind, off S.E. pt.-

8 10 13

82 14 .00

Kullelt&Wood.

Parida Id., watering-place in Chimmo Bay

8 6 60

82 21 45

Liidrones Islands, South lele -

7 61 45

82 26 30

Kollutt.

Montuosi, S.E. end ...

7 27 3o

82 14 30

Burica Point, Burioa Island off it

8 1

82 66 30

Gulf of Dulco, Cape Matapulo .

8 17

83 23 30

M.'leLupeyrouae,

Punta Arenitas ...

8 32

83 21 15

1857.

Sal-si-puedes Point, 8.W. exlrume

8 25 15

83 40 30

Point Llorena, oxtrerno

8 36

83 48 30

Cano Island, West point

8 42 45

83 87 20

Point ^l.ila ...

7 15

83 41 15

(iiK.'pos Point ...

9 25

84 8 35

.'IG

Mount Judas ...

9 ;U 20

84 31 30

Port llerradura, lake on beach -

y 38 oO

84 39 30

Sir i;. Iklchcr.

lllft;?;., ,

- ^

xii

TABLE OF OEOGRAPniCAL POSITIONS.

Oiilf of Nicojrn, Blanco Inliind off capo

Ciildera, hot Npriuga

Pan lie Aziicur

I'unta ArenaR, liglithoiiHe
Capo Vt.'liis
Uordii I'uint

Port Culebra, river at head of port
Capo Elena - - -

balinas Itav, Salinas Island
Ban Junn dci Sur, inner South point
Cape DoBolada
CoKiNTo or Ucalejo, Cardon Id. lighthouse
Fonseca Gulf ; Cweguina Volcano

Port La Union, Chicarene Point
Port Jiquiliaco, Kast point
River Lempa, East point
Volcan dtj S. Miguel, 6,822 ft. -
Port Libortad, Custom-houae -
City of San Salvador •
Port Acajutia, or Sunsonate, light on molu
Isaico Volcano
Port latapa or Iitapam
Volcan de Agua
Volcan dn fuego
San Joac de Guatemala, Ubservation tpot
Cbampurico

WEST CdAST OF MEXICO.

Soconusco Bar - . .

Boca Harra, about - . .

Ventosa Hay, Morro - . .

Salina Cruz Bay, Morro

Bay of Bamba, Punta de Chipoguu

Morro of Ystapa, or Ayuca

Port Guatiilco, Observation spot

Port Sacrificios, West point

Puerto Angel or Port Angolcs, East point

Alcatras Uoc.ks . . .

filaldonado Point, El Recodo

Acapulco, Town of, Fort S. Dioiro

Paps of Coyuca . . .

Tequepa or Papanoa ...

Pctallan, landy isthmus

Port Sihuantuncjo, head of port

Istapa Island, N.W. summit

Mangrove Bluff ...

Tojupan Point

Marnata ...

Manzauilla Bay, West end of villago

Navidad Bay, North beach

Porula Biiy, ObBtrvalion Covo, N. point

Capo Comontes, extremity

Point Mita, extremity

La Corvotana liock .

'''res Marias Ids., S. Juanito Id. N. pjint

Picdra Blanc^i del Mar

San Bias, Cmitom.houso

Isabel iKland

Boca Tecap»n, Palmita village -

Rio Chametla, or del Rosario, \V. point

Mazati.an, signal stfttion

Piaatla Point

l.at.
Niirlh.

» 32 4.5

9 54 2S

9 Ad iH

9 68 aO

10 19

10 32

10 36 55

10 63 16

11 2 60
U 16 30

11 68 20

12 27 56

12 68

13 17 6
13 9 20
13 12 15
13 26
13 29
13 50
13 34
13 47

32 50

13 55 19

14 17 44

13
14
14

15 25

16 12
16 11
16 9 49
16 1 20
15 62
15 44 58
15 40 41

15 39 9

16 58
16 18 40

16 ."JO 56

17 2
17 16 6
17 31 29
17 37 66
17 40 17

17 .14 6

18 22

18 27

19 3 13

19 13
!9 34 31

20 24 40
20 46 50

20 44 15

21 45
21 34 30
21 32 30

21 52 15

22 30 26

22 48

23 11 17
23 38 42

Wiht.

85 8 15
84 42 16
84 63 45

84 49 30

85 64
H5 47
.S5 38

85 51

86 43 40

85 63 30

86 40 40

87 12 16
87 34 30

87 47 5

88 27 40
88 48 30

88 17 20

89 19 20
89 1 30
89 60 4.^

89 40

90 41
90 44
90 52

90 49 48

91 65 36

93 3

94 4.">

95 8 30
95 12 31

95 22 30

96 46 44
96 8 12
96 16 4

96 30 30

97 25
on 32
99 56

100 6

101 4 32
101 26 54
101 33 3

101 40 4

102 17

103 34 45

103 33

104 20 41

104 44 27

105 9 35
105 43 2

105 33 37

106 51
106 42
105 30
105 18 40

105 53 30

106 44 25
lOo 2
106 26 39
106 49 50

Authnritics.

Sir E. Belcher.

Comm. Philip.

Chart.

Lapelin.

>i
U.S.'Survey,1879

Chart.

'I'rastour.

U.S.Survoy,1879,

Chart.

U. S. Survey.
Sir E. Belulier.
Chart.
U.S.Survey,1879

O. H. Richards.

Mainwating.
G. 11. Riihards.

U. S. Survey.

BoeL-hey.
U. S. Survey.

Page

37
37
39
39
41
41
42
43
44
45
48
63
69
60
66
67
68
68
69
72
73
76
77
77
77
80

102

103

104

107

109

110

111

112

113

114

120

121

131

Culia
Altai
San II

I'ointl
Esterl
cl
Point I
Lobosl
Rio yJ
Giiayi
Cape 1
Tetflsi
San Pe
Tiburoil
George I
Rio Coll

TABLE OK OEOORAPIIIC;

VL POSITIONS.

XIII

AUata, ObwrvHtion .pot

1 ">nt San Ig„«cio .

*..tero de Agiabampo. Oba. Uill S P

J^oint Hosa

]^bo8 Island, Monte Verde '

2 ° ^-q"'. South entrance poin"t

JetasdeCabra. orPHM

I^WER CALIFORNIA.

side J

Lut.

North.

24 37 45

25 26 ,

25 36

26 16 18

26 40

27 20 16
27 36 30
27 55 63
27 50
27 66 30

27 69

28 46 66
31 64
3i 56

m 1 30

107 66 7
109 24
109 23 30

109 17 20
109 38
no 36 36
no 36
110 65 13

110 61 30

111 3 30

111 22

112 41 56

113 16 30
116

AuthoritiM ||.„^g

II- S. Survey.
U.S.S. Ji,4^.
U.S. Survi

voy.

Townohond.
V. S. Sur

Voy.

132
133
135
136

135

136

1J6

137

138

141

143

145

i'oint Mansfles
Loreto, (;athfldral .

San Josef Island a .^' ^^*'^ P"'"' -

EHpiritu Santo iia^nTLr'" ^''^' ^^ Pt-

Coralbo Island, No h end ^"^"'^
o- Jose del Cabo ivr w ■ j , '

c.i.*.L„t&i,;'ti.l"''"°"

Ai.MosUocks, South rock
Boca de Soledad

Boca do las Animas .
S«n Juanico Point -

i:.»<w.»u,W.Si"""

28 58
^8 56 39
28 28 30
28 30 30
26 63 37
26 43
26 30 44 ,

25 16 30 I,.,

26 41 1,1,

26 59 37 1111
2-'5 42 llio
2< *4 30 1 1,0
i* 24 10 1,0
2-1 10 10 jliu
24 22 109

23 3 .% 109
22 62 3« 109
22 53 21

24 38 22
24 48
24 58 6
26 16
26 39 30

26 2 30
24 42 28

27 6 68

27 39 35

28 1 49
28 18 8

28 54 51

29 47 11

30 22 l.'i
30 29 46

30 57

31 61 30

32 23 46

113 6

113 34 35
112 61 30
112 17 30
111 6'< 4
111 4-
111 1/ 14
111 20 n

I Us. Survey,

36 40
n 45
20 41
5« 30
40 43
54
54 41
8 60
18
44 47

14 30
34 64

K.llott.

U. S. Survey.

4 18 21

1 54 27

' 11 3

' 36 10

31 46

47 46

69 7

18 3(1

13 21

J.>avidson.

148

149

152

1.53

156

157

158

159

162

103

165

106

168

172

173

177

182

185

186

188

189

191

192

194

196

197

199

193

200

L'Ol

203

COAST OF CALIFORNIA.
San Diego Bay, boundary obelisk
on,t 1 oma, lighthouse .

ban Luis Roy, auchorngc off .

'K^.??' •''8 "7 7

■/ '' '' 14 lu'f 14 38 Itho^'unlfeM '"'

nffi„„ ""*'^'"«'t« 210

33 If,

"117 31

ortjoors.

211

f\ '-p .\ I

»!<(

/I ; - " ' ■ '■' '

. ' , 'it f l_ H

XIV

TABLE OF OEOGRAPniCAL POSITIONS.

Ul.

Norlli.

liillH.
Wwt.

AuthurlliOT.

H«(te

San Juan Cn|iiiitrano, nnchorttKo off

3*3 'iU ib

11*7 44 'O

The Survfy by

211

San Pedro Il«y, lii?htho. on Furtuin Point-

■ii 42 U

118 18

thu U. 8. ofliiurs

212

WilminKton, UufT at landing

33 43 -iU

118 16 3

under Lieut. W.

213

Santa Monica, hotel -

34 36

118 3r 40

A. Bartlott, 1840;

214

Point Iluoneino, liKhtbouiw}

34 U

119 13

Comm. J. Allien,

215

Buenavontiira Misxion

34 16

119 16

1853; and Assis-

210

Santt linrliara, lighthouse

34 ii 36

119 42 6

tant Uoo. David-

21G

Point Contepcion, liKhthouso -

34 26 47

120 28

son, 1863 ; &c.

217

El Coxo, bluff

34 2U 6U

120 20 33

218

Coitus ijhoal, liiHhop Uock lA ft.
San Clumonto Island, S.E point

32 26 46

119 5

*»

219

32 50 30

118 21

»•

220

Sta. Catalina Id., Kapor Uay, Alcatraz Id.
Santa Barbara Island, summit •

33 27

118 24 20

221

33 3U

119 2

222

San Nicolas Island, S.E. point •

33 13

119 26

>»

222

John liegg Itock, 40 ft. high •

33 22 30

119 40 30

223

Anacapa Island, Eitst ond

34 1

119 20

223

St I. Cruz Id., Anacapa Bay, Oba. Point -

34 1 10

119 26 57

»•

224

Santa Kobji Island, W. point

120 10

«l

225

S. Miguel I.. Cuylor Hr., strm. in 8.V^pt.

34 2 16

120 16

220

San Luis Obispo, Whaler Island

36 9 28

120 45

• »

227

San Simeon, beach at head

36 38 24

121 11

229

Point Pinoa, lighthoum

36 37 6H

121 66

t»

231

MoMTERiT, Custom-house wharf

3S 30 17

121 62 27

232

Santa Cruz, light

86 66 66

122 1 33

231

Pigeon Point, liuhthouse

37 U U

122 23 30

236

SAN FUANCISCO, Point Donifa lightho.

37 48 48

122 31 44

241

Fort Point, lighthouse
Telegraph HiU, near Observatory

37 48 32

122 28 30

242

37 47 5;i

122 24 15

24.5

Presidio ....

37 47 29

122 27 50

»t

244

Sir Francis Drake's Uiy, W. point

37 69 20

122 58

25.5

I'oint lioyes, lighthou o

37 59 36

123 1 21

»l

256

South Farallon lighthouse

37 41 49

123 4

2.)8

North Farallon

37 46 1

123 6 26

2.58

Uodfg^ Hea<l, summit I mile from ostreme

38 19

123 4

260

Bodoga Bay, Fori Uoss

38 30

123 13

262

Point Arena, lighthouse

38 57 1'.)

12;i 44 42

264

Mendocino City, N. entrance point

39 18

123 48 32

265

Shelter Cove, S.E. part of bluff -

40 1

124 3 3

•1

266

Capo Mendocino, lighthouse

40 26 21

124 24 11

266

Humboldt BAy, lighthouse on North spit -

40 46 4

124 13

269

Trinidad Head, lighthouse

41 3 4

124 8 50

271

Klamath River, entrance

41 33

124 5

272

Crescent City Bay, lighthouse -

41 44 34

124 12 22

274

Pelican Bay, entrance of Smitli River

41 57

124 13

276

Mount Shasta, summit

41 20 U

121 45

27«

COAST OF OREGON, ETC.

Mack Arch

42 13 37

124 24 46

280

Port Orford, summit of West point

42 44

124 30

282

Cape Orford or Blanco, lighthouse

42 50 7

124 o3 2

284

Co<iuille River, entrance

43 8

124 25

285

Koos Bay, Cape Grtgory or Arago, Itho. -
Umpquah River, entrance
Cape Perpetua

43 20 38

124 22 11

286

43 41

124 12

288

44 19

124 6

2U0

Yaquina River, Newport

44 40 30

124 4 45

291

Yaquina Head, lighthouse

44 43 30

124 5

292

Cape Lookout

46 21

123 68 3U

293

Ciipe Meares

45 30

123 87 30

294

Tillamook Bay, entrance

45 34

123 66

294

Tillamook Rock, liglithouse

45 .56 10

124 1 10

2<jG

Columbia River, Point Adams, lighthouse-

46 12

123 58

300

Ciipo Disappointment, lighthouse

46 16 33

124 3 11

301

Astor Point, Astoria

46 U 28

123 49 32

306

J.'aI

CiJ

Pol
Nel

Bill

AnMii

Whl

Poiif

Du,

Ii<>st

Tacfl

Stej]

Bud(

Whii

Lutni

Semii

Lopei

San J

— '^' »'CAL POSITIONS.

Port Ang^ KdrttS^JMi"'""'' ■
. Blunt or Smith jIi^,'"^ •

Wa^4 *'"•—« W. point
iacoma, wh«rf

,^'W.bov^,Sf-P;^ Wharf.
I'ommi Island Vr?I^"^.*« ^^'n'
8««i«hmooSy Pai^H"' -

1^1.
North,

I.'irnf.

'•« 39 (

4fl 43 ,
, <6 63 44

*7 19
'«7 41

<« 23 16
4« 22 30
4H 8
48 10 69
*S 18 60

/m 3

/124 4 28

|124 6 64

'24 14

/124 37

124 44 40

124 Se 23
133 W 30
123 6 7
122 SI 30

'^uthorliio,.

U.S.Swvey.

g^PtlKolIptt.
"• o. hurrey.

*-"' JU.U, ij. {j'Pg <gT'Ue. 8.E. point,
'-o- » post at H.enj.

VANCOUVER ISLAND

«i^"i ft"*t5::/r ''*'^« Rock . '

Ksquimalt HaXurV " ?'-^«* ««<=« Rock "

Bsrclay Sound (^^7f"^^' ^"'nt
Ob«/rT«toryY,:f*j^««fe lighthouse

"jyoquot Soand, Ob^ ij ^j'"'^"' Canal .
Refuge Cove, Wljl^ 1 ''J^c^'o Cay .
"«»q«iat H«rbij;fc» West side ^
fcstevan Point <5!;\u' cove -

Nootka So»„i' S°f"'' extreme .

^•peranza Inlet, rock o, . "
J^yuquottjound/Shfn^lp P ^"> ^^o

Mrrisn columbu

Garry Point "Snihouse

^'.mTd'&te ^"li^"0- i;rracks

<8 8 40
48 9 22
47 54 40
«7 36 46
47 36
47 16 30

47 I« 45

<7 3

48 13

48 46

49
48 26 35
48 27 46

122 46

123 41
132 31 6
122 23 30
122 29 16
122 28 16
Ip 34 16

,132 66
1^2 47
122 42 12

122 46 30
132 48 60

123 3

fertS,*^-

Captrtin O. H
Richards.

48 33 30
48 19 36
48 17 45

48 25 49
48 26 22
48 47 30

48 64 41

49 13 46
49 15 22
49 20 60
49 27 31

49 22 7

49 36 31

49 47 20
49 62 45

49 69 65

50 11 21
50 6 31
50 17 15
50 30
50 29 26

'124 27 37
123 42 40
123 32 15

/.?! 2« 46
123 23 2
126 12 50
126 16 64
124 50 7
126 06 17
126 16 40
126 26 27
126 32 32
126 37 32

, Gemro. Wood. ,
"• *^ender, R.s. j

^- H- Richards.

126 67 5

126 69 66

127 9 30
127 37 HB
127 67 20
127 52

127 62 16

128 3 39

448

49 (
46 C
49 7 4
43 13 1
49 19 40
49 Ifi 18

/123 6 26
123 16
123 12 1
I '22 54 26
123 16
'23 12

XVI

TAHLE OF (iEOCiHAlMIICAL TOSITIOXS.

Utt.
Ninth.

,»'.

Nanaimci Ilurli., Knirauca IsUnd liKhtlio.

Dr. I'.anaon'i hnuno
Nan(H>go llurlHiiir, Kntrnnco Kock
Daytx'H Sound, llunry Hay, Ueak Point -
Cap" Miidne . . .

Ildwu KuiiikI, I'lump'T Covo
({uathiiiiky Cove, Valiies Island, S, point-
Knox Hay, 'J'huriiw lil , atrcHiu itt hwid -
I'ort Nuvillr, Uc.bbiir'8 Nob
Port IlHrvfy, Tidv-jwle Islet
Alitrt Hay, I'drmoniiit Id., Yi'llr>w Itliiff -
Heaver llnrboiir, Fort liiipcrt, iSboll Uli't -
I'ort Aloxander, OoIcUir Cii., inlet in contri'
IIo|io Inland, Hull Harbour, N. p«ml uf
Indian Island . . .

Triitni^lo Island, 8cott Islands, W. point •
Cape Sc»tt, summit of capu

Cape Caution

Virfjin Uotk-, largest -

Poiirl Uocks, lartfiwt . . .

Hniith Sounil, K>f;g Inlot oft vntraucs

Takush Harbour . . .

Cnlvt^rt Island, 8nuth point
FitzIIuKh Sound, SchooutT It«truat, Ctutru
Ixliind . . .

Nuinu Harbour
Fitzhiiffh 8ound, Pt. Walkir -
Hurkt- Channel, luMtoration Covu

Hel' kula ancliora^ii
FiNhiir Ciinal, I'ort •Jnhn, Murk Ilock
Milbank Sound. Capu Swuin

Port Hlakoney
Finlayson Cb innol, Cartor Hay -
Mll^H^;l Canal, Poison Cove
Oardnor Caniil, Point StauLforth
Co^ldan Anibongu -
Gronville Channel, Klownufrgit Inlet,
Morning Uecf ■ . .

Skftcna Hivir, Point Ijambrr! -
Canal du Princip«, Port StophonH. Hluff Pt.
Chatham Bound, Mutlah-Cutlah Hay
Port Simpson, 0\m. spot
Stephens Island, (jlawdzeet. Harris Id. -
Point Muckt'lynt), tintr. of Works (^nnal -
Portland Jnlot, Kincolith Mii'.-.ion, NasiH.
(•bsorvatoiy Inlet, Salmon Cove
Portland Ciinal, Hoar liiver, at head

UUBBN ChAKIX>TTK ISLANnS.

Cape St. James, South extreme!

Ilouhton Stewart Channel, Forsyth Pt. •

Cumahewa Inlet, Kinu'ui Island

Skidegale Channel, Bar rock at E. entr.-

Cnpo Hall

Uiise Point ...

Virago Sound, Cape KdeiiHitw.

Langara or North Island, North point -

IlippH Island, West point

Skiffogate Channel, Point Huck

Port Kuper, Sansum Id., in Mitchill Har.

Cape Henry ...

Tasoo Harbour, entrance

Anthony Island, S«uth point -

12 M
10 15
lA 43
;ir. 2u

59 If)

24 3U

2 42

24 16

31 U

3;* fi8

35 2

42 ;i«

5U 4V

.id 5» 47

.10 51 53

60 46 41

51 8

51 17

51 22 30

51 15 «

61 It) 51
51 25

51 28
.il 51

10
44

51 66 30
40

22 42
7
9

52 18 47
■')2 49 41

52 66

53 35 30
63 22 44

52
52
52
52

53 39 24

5J 6

53 20

.54 20 10

64 33 61

5t 12 69

&t 39

51 :>9 26

.55 18 34

.)5 66 3

51 64

52 9

53 1 30

53 22 30
5,i 43

54 11
54 4 30
54 16 e
53 33
53 12
52 f)6 31
52 55 30
•V2 41
62 6 30

l.»n«
WrA.

123 48 45

123 6U 3(>

124 8 (!
61
12
2U
14
39

4
1(1

124

126

123

125

126

12(!

12U

12« 67

127 26

127 39

127 66 3
129 6 32

128 30 46

127 48

128 12 45
128 I 30
127 51
127 38 43
127 66

127 44 38
127 52 23
127 65
127 40 30
12C 48 4

127 52 30

128 33 30
128 22 42
128 24 34
128 1

128 47

129 17 16

129 44 61

130 6 2U

129 44

130 27 30
130 26 36
130 46 10
130 26 .30
129 67 36

129 62 30

130 3 27

131
131

131 33

131 «1

131 50

131 36

132 21 30
132 66 30
132 59 30
132 34
132 9
132 22
132 7
131 12

Aulhoritlo.

(>. II. Uivhardi.

I). Pender, R.N
1807 — 1870.

Ci.M.Dawsoii,&(

I>. IVnder, IJ.N.
Ci.M. Dawson, iie

G. Wooro, Il.N.
Chart, &c.

I'uir*

469
470
474

477
480
483
496
4118
499
6U0
604
606
608

609
513
463

514
515
.il6
51.)
517
618

619
620
620
521
521
522
627
629
531
532
633
536

636
639
646

651
664
5,58
556
.563
5(>4
667

671
572
678
579

581
582
584
685
686
586
587
588
588
688

'!^!;^:^^'-'"'>'^'-mcAi.vn,,rm-s.

ITU

Sunt,.

COAST OF ALASKA.
Cwpo Fox .

UijJim Un«l. j-„i„t svkoi
9«P«d"C'hiicon .

Von },'""'"=/''"". I'<'i"t"«aker ■

'-"Pu I'olo .
C«po Addii.frton

c2r>m":^i,,:;te'VjI'J-.HoJth point :
i riiuu l<'r...i.>..;..i. i... , -.

U.M.

■I'lili'irltioi

■/ •?! Ifl .to ll

•■'I <7

(
"•"' 2!) (J
55 (■)«
5 5 .IS l.j
''■O 2U

W 60

1 1. 'id

1131 r,

I I'M ,VJ
(l.ll 17
131 1.1

i;n

Viiiicouver, &o.

I.JI |.j

•?' 5.5 40 l|;i]

2(>

, ■■<1 54

'■•i2 12

I'U 5.S

5" 40 .•((» Ii;j2

[1-J2 22
"-' :'i ;to

».iiii:uuvcr, iiii

■'>l I.S
5(i i(j

niici

j.s

olephens J'i.ss.,ir^ J>„r( ii , *

I'omt Au^rustrt

f^'luctK.n I'oint - ■ •'» 12 o I

1 oiut A,lo]ph„8 . ■ -|;VJ 2

'NtkH .Sound, Mitkrt . *^ ""'"«
l.iorka JslHiui, hntrmr.. r i '.

J ")-« Fairweather .
JI';»ntFai,,vt.;,thor .

•1 omt liiou .

1^2 ^H
1 1 •■(•'! 3.i

laa 40
JJ-ty 51

134 3
1 133 4.5

'33 iH

1)33 ;i,S

'33 27 30

132 37

1 1 33 30

'■•M ;)

'31 l.i

'31 20

133
1131
131 2
'33 2.5

.'« .'iO

1.33 24
'33 ^7

i;i.i

'31 M

()

134

134 32
'34 30 30

[134 ,-)2
l.il

Oi)

'3.5 12

135 10

I.J(; U

I ' 3ii 2,S

130 Jl

■^'ortA J'aci/ie.

■><

■>7

57 2 .-,2

'"' f>2 1;5

■'•'< ly

••">N 13
■>'^ 50 30
5« .54 30
5!' 33
•''!' 32 30
•'!' 51
■>'J 43
■>'J 54

i(i H

i.
II. (.5

5 4.5

> 40 ;jo

13(5 I!) .J 5

13.5 2.S

1136 11

13(i 27

137

Jfu.ssi.in Chart.
^- «. Chart.
Vancouver, &c.

I 50

'37 31

i3'J 17

'3» 13

'3!» 32

"0 13

141 M

•^y K. Bplrhor.
> '"icouvur, iic

^'f 'ii. livlchvr.

B|fe1:

1 .

>;■■' ,M

XVIII

TAni.F. OF ni:ofju.\riiTrAT, rosmoNs.

MiMiiil St. Klin*, 19,.')00 fmit

l'iiiii|>l>iii,t liiK'k

("itjMi HiK lclin(?

Kiiyc Ulnnil, Citpe H'tmimil

I'liiiif^ Willmm NuiiikI, C»p<' Wit-lic'il

()a|><' llirichinbriicik

I'ort Klrhcs, riiiiipH I'oiiit

I'tiil (iriivinit, S.k. puiiit

SiniK Coriirr I lay •

I'liiMt ViiUli'8, I'orl Kicxiiiiintlu

I'oillt CllIlDHII

Moiitii^ii Inliiml, Sniilh |i»int •

Port ('hiiliiitTH, Tuiiil (iiliiioiir
Cii|io I'liiji t -

(^liiNwi'll Isl.'tncl'i, South ^'loiip •
I'io IhIhihIh, South t'XtrciiU'
I'oiiit (loni
Cook Iiil't, CiijM) Kli/.ihflh •

I'lirt C'liathain, WHt»irinK-|ilin'H

I'oint 'Icilii

Tfchouffutsfhoiik I'liy, Aiirliipr roint

< IlldlDIIKHIIIlt IbI.iIIiI, Hllllllllil •
ri\|M> I)uN>,'l:iM

C'uiil^iai'k Inhtiiil, K. point

AVcHi Koii'laiul

North Foreliinil
KoDiAK IsLANii, (ireville or Ti)l«toy Ciipe

81. I'liul Iliul).,('hiiBiivkii Covo, W. pt.

Ig.itskoy li.ty, C'liiio Tuiikoy -

Ciipe Trinity
Alri'tian Islands and DgiiRiNn Ska.

runineiilii of AliuHkii, Toualo Day
Capo I'ruvidotice -
Evdokoi'tr Inlaiiils, S. iuland
ht. Stcphi'ii Inland
Uukainok, or THchirikoff Id., N.E. pt
Kchumii){f.n IJh., Ouii^h, N.U. point

Handpoint, I'opofl'tStrait •
8annak or Halibut Island, centre
Ounimnk Islnnd, CluchRldiiiHkoi volcano

Ciipo Mordvinoff
Krenitzin IsliindH, Oiigamok iNliind
Tij^alga Island, centre
Akouu Island, North point
Ounalnshka Isliin I, .S.\v. point -

Ulakhtii Uiiy, i xtiomity of spit

lUuIuk, (')iiirc'h
Oumnnk IslHud. Cape Sigak
Joann ISo^toslofl' Island
Yoiinaska Island, Noith point •
Amoughtu Island, Cintro
Sfgouam Island, East point
Anilla Island, Kiist Capo
Atkha Island, Korovinskaia IViy, S cnpo
Sitkhin Island, contro
Adiikh Island, Noith end

Uay of Islands
Kannga Island, N.E. point
Tanaga Island, N.W. peak
Goreliiy or Jiurnt Iwlitiiil, summit
Amatignak Island, centre

Semisopochnoi, or Sovrm Moimfains Id.
Amichitka I.sland, N.W. point -
Kiriluvskaia Jiay •

Ijit.

Norlli.

tio

A!»
til)
«0
(to
lid
IK)

111) ft'

•iO 44

A'.) 4(i

liO 1(1

iV) fi.i

r>l) ,'U

.V.) 11)

.'i;» 3!)

ft'.) 22

fiH fi2

(i() 21

<iO 42

;ti)
u

:<()

:io
I)

47 57
2.)

56 46 U

67 4(1
57
5U
ftfi 10
&!) 50
55 21
55 19 17
54 27
54 45
54 51
64 13

51 6
54 17
53 13
53 53 5(i
53 52 38
62 SO
53 .W 20

52 10
52 2(i
52 20
52 (> 30
52 12 50
52 4 30
52 3
51 49 Ifi
51 ,i3
51 56
51 46
51 17

51 59
51 3S
51 27 1

Ill
112
113
144

1)5

11(1
I Hi
I 15
I4li
I Hi
147
147
l»7
14H
149

149 At

150
151
151
151
151
153
153
151
151
160
152
152
152
154

156 30

166 27
1.76 22
165 30
155 30
100 30
KiO 31
102 50
1H3 69
104 29

164 57
1G5 6

165 40
lfi7 47
UiU 28 34
lOii 31 36
108 42

167 33

170 35

171 14

172 IH
172 58
174 34
17t) 10
170 40
176 51 58
176 69
178 17

178 60

179 10
Long. E.

179 45 67
178 3.)
178 60

If. R. Niirv.'y.
Hpanish Cliarl.
'•..Sir E. i:.lolii-r.
Vanciiiiv«r, &c,

Mr K lloli^hor, fn
Vanciiiivtr, \c.

Chart.

II. S. Sjirvey.
Lisiansky, &c.
Vancouver, Ac.

Wassilieff, &c.

If
(•olownin,
Krui'cnstern, 4c.
Vancouver, tec.
Chart.
W. 11. Pall.
Sarytsthoff.

Kotzebuo, &c.

Liitko.

IJ. S. Survey.

vy. H. D.n.

Kotzotiue.
ISarytschoff, &c.
Kotzobiie, &c.

Tehenkoff.
Liitke.

Inghostrom, &c.
Stanikowitch.
Inghi«trom, &c.
W. H. Dall.
Ingho.strom, &c.
Harytsehoflf, &c.

Inghostrom, &c.

030
039
6 to
fill
643
(113
644
646
646
046
646
647
U4H
640
A4U
649
649
649
649
O.'iO
651
652
662
663
663
664
656
660
66!)
660

660
665
666
666
665
66S
667
66S
670
670
671
671
671
672
673
073
676
675
676
670
677
677
679
683
680
080
681
681
681
681

681
083
662

AllltrlJ

Kiyri I
Ki'kii
KIhIJ

llolll.lJ

K<'iiiitsi|
Ag.tlt(,
Allou ll

IB*,.

TA'If.R (iK ui:()(

"VPIIICAr. POSITIOXS.

•In

I«<ltlln!|( 11,,.. (<,.|„, 11

A.n.-.k or A /nak^J,;/;'''/,"'!'..''^ «litl<„H .

Ch|i.. .Stn.«:,„io(r
t'iil'o Alciuhikoff

fhra„,t.schoMki';;''7f^""'"M"Vo

tV'Avinoff ' ^^•PO'nt-

Capo Viiticoiivcr
Cani) liotnunxoff

c.p.,'.i;;:;.«-''''''p''i. «'"«.^"

Cape Denbigh '^

Capo I)arl)y.

iT"^ ,7 «'''Jfe'" Inland

1 oint Uodr.oy. norlhurn „oak

S';oXk'-^^"'^^«'"''i : :

Iwtr!Sr'^' ^"""'^-^ ^^-'^' cent.

rrv!;,?'"''! ^''""'' N- point :
^^^'Kta.ll^l-ia..vi.,.:

rapo North *^°"'*'''*-A«u.

('apt) Sordze Kanion -

i;'ANT Cai-k of Asia .

"Jt. Lawrence Bay Cm,, U'^i

, Capo Pimongoiln '!'" ^"^'"""b'"""

Mclchiyuicu.k liay, entrance .'

lat.

North.

'■'I 2.) .I.)
••'I I. -I

SI ft.s 6u

r-oiiK.

Aiillloiiti,.,.

fl'.' .'I,

•V.' ;i()
•>- OIJ

17:;!;; ::i'"v'-trom.&..

1 7.) JO

' 7J 7 I I,', i"

■■'■' H 8

■>> 2)

■■'■' M

•'xi 7

'■>(' 2;i J,-,

■>7 ;iO 4

•''7 l,t

■is 17

-| fi« 12 fi

•W 1!!)

■| W 35
oH 42
•W 3 9
•'>!> 5.5
•■>!) ,18
(iO 27
'iO
'i(» .'(5
<>l 51 J2
'i2 40
'i;t 35
'•'■i 2H :U)
'i3 53 33
IM I'J
<il Ki
'i! 2(1 12
'> Ki 40
111 ")« ly
U5 2'1 10

''■'> o(i .-JO
5 3,S 40

71 23 31

'i3 52

'i3 15

liO IH
t!0 30
liO ;j4
•if' 39 16
'7 8

fionj^.

|l(,2 .,0

I(i3 1

Mil

I'iO II

i(;o 2

I 'is |,s
157 5,S
;57 47
1 57 25
ir>7 .(
I5N 46 I
I.'iN IH (
l()0 50 (
Ifi2 5 I
1«I 53 (J
102 5
I(i3 25
l<i(i 10
Ifi5 22
Ki-i 20
l«fi 13
103 r,6
"!2 19 (J
I'i2 3
iliO 30 10
l<il 30
1«2 U
102 59
KiO 7 y
100 17 .-,0
100 4 7 50
107 2 47

107 30 40

108 3
108 13
••■iO 15

171 30
108 30

172 4
172 40
172 4'
109 19
170 12 I

*>t,iiiik.)wii(li.

Von \Vr,,,i;^„|.

I II

,9";"""'" '"'iik,j.

*,<'"k, \c.
J '••tiilinu.
Chart.

^y■alll^|Ji,.((;
I iiloljiii;, A.C.

C'pt.K.K.SMiill,,
I l^ijolc.

T'. .S. S„rv,.y.
I ''aK:oHkiii.
Cook, 177,s.

TolM.nkoir.
'ook.

l!uLTl|..y.

C,M,k.

|J.«..S„r.vy.

T . "

U.s

Siirvoy.

IJS

55 IG

07
00 3
05 29 40
05 37 .30
05 30 30

179 57 E.
171 55
IfJO 44
170 .50
170 43
172

Von U'r,,ngi.i.

llfcclicy.
I'Utku.

\%M' V

• '■ h

U' I

TABLE OF GEOGRAPHICAL POSITIONS.

Cape Khaluotkin
Ciipo Nygtchyfi^n
Cape Neogtchan

Arakamtchetchon I»lan(J, Ciipo Kjghjnin-
Capo Mortons

Ittygran Idland, Cnpo Postols -
Capo Tchaplin
Capo Teliotikotakoi
I'ort Proviclcnco, Plovor Day
Capo Spanbery
Cape Attcheun
Transfiguriition Bay -
Cape Uehring

Gulf of St. Croix, Capo J[oetchkcn
Mount Linliiigai, 1,402 ft.

Anadyr Bay, Alinmka Island
Capo St. Thaiidoua . . .

Archangel Gabriol Bay, N. point of ontr. -
Capo Navarin, 2,512 foot
Capo Olutorskoi . . .

Capo Qovenskoi

Cape Ilpinskoi . . .

Vorkhotoursky, or Little Karaghinsky Id.
CoMMANDEU ISLANDS, Bohiiug Islcud, Capo
Khil'-off

Capo Youchin . . .

West extremity - - -

Meiiny or Coppor Island, sottlcmont

S.K. extremity . . .

N.W. oxtreuiity - . -

KAMCHATKA, ETC.

Karaghinsky IsLind, Cape ClolonichtchefT

Capo Kracheniiinikoff
Capo Ilpinskoi
Capo Kouzinichtcheff -
Kiinighinskaiu Bay, mouth of iln, Karnga

South point
Cape Uukinskoi
Capo Ozornoi
Bivor Stolbo'. skaia
Capo Stolbovoi
Cape Kamchatskoi
Klutchevskoi Volcano, 1.5, 7CG foot
Capo Kronotskoi
Kronotskoi Volcano, 10,010 foot
Cape Shipunskoi
Villeuchiiisky Peak, 7,372 feet -
Avatcha or Awatska Volcano, 11, .'500 ft.
AvATcHA Bay, church of IVtropauluVbki
Cape Gavareah
Cape Lopatka

KuHiLs Islands.

Alaid Island
tiiimshu Ifiland, centro
Poromushir Island, high mountain

N.E. point
Bhirinky Island
Munkourusby I>laud, contro

Lat.
Korth.

65 15
05 5
64 55 30
04 40
04 33 15
04 37
04 24 30
64 16

64 21 55
04 42 30
04 48

04 50

05 30

65 28 40
65 30 30

64 37
02 42
02 28
02 16
59 .58
59 50
69 48 30
59 37 30

54 50

55 21
55 15
54 47
54 39
54 54

59 13 30

58 28
69 48 30

59 5

59 8
58 65
57 58
57 35

60 40 30
50 40 30
50 10

Long. W.

172

171 65

172 20
172 1
172 24
172 29

172 14

173 10

173 23 54

174 30

176 28

175 25
175 48
178 40

178 5
Long. E.

177 40

179 38
179 22
179 4
170 21
166 18
104 57
165 43

100 40
1G5 58
105 48 30
168
108 9 u
107 32 30

66 8
64 54
64 45
53
62 42
53 21
53 1
52 18
50 52 30

104 40
163 32
104 57
103 19

162 59
103 2

102 47

163 14
162 39

103 21
103 25
100 45
102 33
100 37
160 5
168 22
158 47
158 39 15
158 43
156 45

50 54

50 46

50 15

50 48

50 \r,

49 51 (I

155 32

156 26

Authorities.

Liitke.

Russian Survey.
Liitke.

Charts.
Liitke.

Chart.
Golownin, &c-

Liitke.

155 24 15

156 7
154 .58
154 32

Chart.

Bcochcy, &c.
Chart.

Ivruscnstorn.

Page

711
711
711

713
713
713
714
714
716
717
717
717
717
718
718

719
719
720
720
720
720
720
721

721
722
722
723
723
723

726
726

726
726
726
726
726
727
727
727
727
728
728
728
731
731
734
735
736

737
737
737
737
737
738

Sil

Itu

TABLE OF GEOGRAPHICAL POSITIONS.

XXI

Avo3 Rock -

Onnokutiin Island, Cape Krenitzin

Khaiimkotan Island, contro puak

iShiashkotan Island, centre

Chirinkotan Island

Musir Islands, or Thu Snares -

Kaikoke Island, peak -

Mataua Island, Surytscheff Peak

liashau Island

Ushishir Island, South point

Ketoy Island, South extremity -

Siinusir Island, Provost Peak -

The Four Urothors, South Torpoy Island

Proiighton Island

Unip, Cape Castricum, North point

Capo Van dor Lind, South point
Iturup Island, N.E. point

Capo Uikord, South point
Skotan or Spiinborg Isliind, centre
ICunasiri Island, St. Anthony's peak

Establishment in Traitor's Bay

Sea of Okhotsk.

Capo Lopatka

Bolcherotsk

Tigol l{iver, entrance -

Capo Utkolokski

Capo Bligaii

I'oiistaresk . - - .

Kaminoi, at the month of Penjina River •

Cihijt'ga, or Fort Jiejiginsk

Ciipo I'iiighin

Okhotsk . . . .

I'ort Aian, Capo Vneshni

Jonas Island, 1,200 fett

Fort Oudskoi . . .

Great Shanfcir Island, North point

ProkoJieir Island . . .

Koassijft' Island . . .

Capo Uousjiindsha . . .

River Tiigiir, mouth - . .

Capo Liitke

Saohalin Island, etc.

Ctpo Elizabeth

Cipo Mary

Kiirth Bay, Tartar colony

Niidiejeda Bay, (.^ipe Ilurcer

C^ape Uolovatohell'

C'iipe Lowenstirn

Cape Klokatclioff

f'iipe AVurst

t^hoal Point

Downs Point

Capo Dolisle

Cape Ratmanofif

Cape Riranik

Mount Tiara

Capo Bellingshausen -

Cape Patience

Robbwi Island, N.E. point

Uivcr Neva, moiith

Cape Notetu or Soimunolf •

40 49
49 19
49 8

48 62

49 1
48 36
48 17
48
47 51
47 35
47 19
47 6
46 29
46 42
46 18
45 37
45 36
44 26

43 60

44 22
43 44

50 62 30

52 54
58 1

57 50

58 40

62
62 10

59 10
69 20
56 25 28
56 23
61 29
55 11
55 5
54 43
54 40

53 40
53 67

54 24 30
64 17 30
15 45
10 15

54
54

53 25

54 3
53 46
53
52 34
51 53

.50 48

60 12

50 3

19 35

18 62

48 36

49 14

48 53

1/54 19
154 44
154 39

151 8
153 30
153 44
153 15
153 11

152 48
152 37
152 22
151 5? 50
150 3. 30
150 28 30
160 28
149 34
148 49
146 68
146 49
146 16
145 33

156 45

166 47 30
158 18 30

167 18
151 36
162 30
162 30
100 15
156 13
143 14
138 21
143 16
134 58

137 40

138 22
138 12
126 52
136 46
140 22

142
142
142
142
141
143
143
143
143
143
143
143
144
143
144
144
;44
143
143

17 45

27 34

25 45

46 15

KruBenstern.

;bart.

Qolownin.
Chart.

Chart.
King, &c.
Charts.

Lcssepa.
Chart.

Krutontorn.
Kosmin,

Chart.

Krusenstern.

Chart.

Kruaenstcrn.

738
738
738
738
738
738
738
738
738
739
739
739
739
739
740
740
740
741
742
742
742

743
743
744
744
744
744
744
746
746
745
746
747
748
747
748
748
748
748
748

750
750
750
750
751
751
751
751
751
751
751
761
761
761
761
752
752
762
762

V !

.t:

1 ' ■]*'

' I'. ; 1

-■■^m

XXll

TABLE OF GEOGRAPniCAL POSinONS.

; i\

IjU.

North.

I-oiiK.
Kust.

Authorities.

Page

Ciipe Dalryir.rle ...

48 21 "O

142 44 *0

Kruscnsturn.

752

Cupe Miiloif'sky

47 57 45

142 34

752

Uurnizot Poiik, or Mount Spanborg

47 33

142 20

752

Cape Scniiiviiio ...

47 16 30

142 59 30

752

Capo Tonin ...

46 60

143 27 30

753

Cape LowBiiom

40 23 10

143 38

753

Cape Siretoko or Aniwa

46 2 20

143 25

753

Capo Notaro or Ci illun, lii;hthoii80

45 54

142 2

Chart.

753

La Dangere>380 Uotk, or Kuinoii Opasnosti-

45 48 15

142 10

Ward, 1855.

754

Karsiikovsk . . .

46 38 47

I .2 47 43

Kussiau Chart.

754

Tolwotchi Bay, KJykoflf Point -

40 29 3

143 18 18

754

Kiciri, Pic de Langlo -

45 11

141 12 15

KruNcnstern.

755

Uofunsiri, Capo Uiuber

45 29

140 55

Chart.

765

Cape Nossyab ...

45 27 30

141 3j

760

Gulp of Tautary, etc.

Maucka Cove

47 3

142 5

768

KosQunai ....

47 58 45

142 11 30

759

Sortunai ....

49 30

142 7

759

Dui, lighthoueo

50 50

142 6 35

760

Cape Pogobi ...

52 12 30

141 38

761

Cape Disjippoiutmont -

45 48

137 51

761

Capo Saffron ...

47 19

139 5

761

Fish Eiver ...

47 59

139 31

761

Low Cape ...
Beachy Head, or St. Nicholas Point

48 28

140 12

761

48 58

140 24

761

Bniracouta Iliirbour, Tullo I aland

49 1 60

140 19

761

Ciistries Bay, Quoin Point, lighthouau

51 26

140 54

763

Aloxandrovski ...

51 28 2

140 48 4C<

Uussiun Chart,&c.

763

N ikolaevsk ....

53 8

140 45

760

Expedition Bay, Miisoir Rock -

42 37 50

130 48 45

708

Amur Bay, or Guerin Gulf, Postchanni Pt.

43 11

131 48

769

Skryplcff Island, lighthouse

43 1 45

131 57 45

771

Vladivostok, Ol)servation spot -

43 6 61

131 52 44

771

Askold Island, lighthouae

42 43 35

132 21 10

772

Hornet Bay, Fox Island

42 45

132 56

773

Islet PoLnt, or Capo Zamok

42 48

133 42

773

Siau-Wuhu Bay, Observation spot at head

42 54 14

133 50 32

Ward, 1859.

773

Olga Bay, or Port Jlichaol 8eyniuur, Biy-

dono Island ...

43 41 15

135 13 19

774

St. Vlndimir Bay, Low Point -

43 53 40

135 27 21 ;; 1

775

Shelter Bay

44 28

135 69

Tro'ison, 1850.

776

Sybille Bay, South point

44 13 45

.'36 22 30

776

Pique Bay ....

44 46 15

136 27 15

776

Bullock Bay - - -

45 5

130 44

776

LukS Point ...

45 24

137 16

Chai't.

776

JAPANESE ARCHIPELAGO.

KlVSIU AND SiKOK.

Satano mitiaki, Cape ChichakofT, lighthouse

;)o .kS 30

130 40

Cliarts.

784

Kagosima, N. side of river eniruiico

;u 31 a

130 30 11

785

Oo sima, lighthouso - ^ .

31 31

131 25

780

Nonii Harbour ...

33 23

133 20

787

Wurato or Kotsi Inlet, lightho. on S. point

33 30

133 30

i»

787

Seto Uchi, ou Inland Sea.

Kosiine no oosimn, N.E. point •

33 55

130 20 30

789

Simoiioseki, Rukuruu Island, lighthouso -

33 5S 53

130 52 31

(90

Muzu aaki

33 58 15

130 50 50

793

SImol

HimeT

TsurJ

Ozun

Tomol

Nabal

Awadl

Hiogol

Oosakf

Isumi I

Hinoi

TanabJ

TABLE OP OEOORAPHICAL POSmoxs.

xxm

Ozum,nohana,orCapeIyo .
Nabae sjma. lighlhous'e

Tanabe Bay, Cape Tanab6 .'
8.E. Coast op Nipok.

^Jo sima, Uarbour of Ki; P.-o-
Lighthouse ' ^"a>'8ma Rock

|u8i.yama Mountain -

' Tag Ba"?'^''"'^- «"'--: Mia «aki:
OulpopYedo.

fe"oS°'r&S"'^^^*'^°-«
Simoda Harbow Op. ^''I' 'ghthouse
Joka«i,,,g-. Centre Island

Nosimasaki, lighthouse

Yokoska Harbiur^)"!""'" "
Yokohama Vi?.f,^»i7-^' ^''*'"'' ^O'nt

Haneda^^inrSoLr!
Volcanic l8«T8.S.E. OP Japax.

Lat.
North.

S3 67 43
33 44

33 63 35

34 8 30
34 22 30
34 23 6
34 37
34 41 18
34 39 45
34 16 60
33 62 40
33 40

33 2f 20
33 29 8
33 28 15

33 33 45

34 21 65
34 30 40

34 35 46

35 21
35 51
34 48 12

135 45 40

135 48 13
135 52 10

135 55 30

136 54 44
136 54 50
138 13 28
138 44 30
138 31 30
138 46 22

34 36 2
34 34 25

34 40

35 8 8

34 53 20

35 8 27
35 16 18
35 17 20
35 26 23
35 31 56

138 51 12
138 56 57

138 66 40

139 37 7
139 53 67
139 41 8
139 45 12
139 38 50
139 39 13
139 48 3

Oo sima or Vries Island S P r. ■ .
^i;:^"«™'». highest S'^-^-P"'"'
^•Ii iki sima, highest part

iieuncia Jiocks, southern

iiroughton Hock, cntro
I'litsr^K, Island, bavHttJP

Knyonnniso Kocka ."
hnuth Island
PoKHfidin Isltind
Lot8Wifo,orKicadeOro I

East Coast op Nipon, ktc

oKr2;g:gr^tiightho..so
5i-pi«;jk[,Nrth'2e ■

Capo Ycsiin

34 40
34 12 15
34 6
33 62 t
33 56
33 39
33 4 24
32 28 30
31 55 16
31 27 8
30 28 26
20 40 28

139 25 45
139 9 15
139 31 30
139 35

138 48 15

139 17 45
139 50 21
13!) 43 45

139 54 18

140 2
140 14 12
HO 10 45

Huntington,

35 43
38 10
30 27
■11 20
41 9
U 17
11 33
40 61
il 48

30 140 61 32 Charf

f7 141 36 ' "'•

7 141 59
10 141 2i) .75

,^ 110 15 30

140 21

« 110 55
1'' 110 45 15
30 Mil 11

792
795
796
797

797
800
804
807

806

809

813

•1 -.r

■'> ^-4

XXIV

TABLE OF GEOGRAPHICAL POSITIONa.

t \

Taugar Strait, Hakodate Ilarbour, Kamida
Creek, entrance -
Consular garden •

Cape Sirakonu

Island of Ykzo.

Volcano Bay, Endermo Hr., Sinmororan

Cape Yerimo

Akishi liay, entrance to lagoon -

Capo Noyshaf, lighthouso

Nemoro, lighthouse on '^onten siraa

Cape Sirotoko or Spanberg

Cape Soya, lighthouse

Matsumai, river entrance

Okusiri Island, North point

Sutt Bay, Otatsuts

Cape Novosilzov

Iskarri Bay, Capo Skurlutzs, lighthouse

Cape Tomomai

Taruri Island, North end

Cape Nossyab

West Coast of Nipon.

Bittern Rocks, S.W. rock

Tabu sima, Observiiiory Hock, off E. extr.

Awa sima, N.E, exiremo

bddo Island, Ya or Wa saki

Ogi Bay - - -

Niegata, lighthouse -
Toyama Bay, Fushiki, lighthouso
N.inao, North Ilarbour, Niisuki-bana
Rokko saki, lighthouse
Nana sima or Astrolabe Rock -
Yutsi sima - . • .

Mikuni Koads

Tsuruga Baj', lighthouse at entrHnce
Miyadsu, East side of river entrance
Oki Islands, Saigo Harbour
Mino eima, centre
Taka yama, or Cape Louisa
Ai sima, or llichards Island
Aburatani Harbour, Kudzu ura
Teu-no sima, lighthouse

Kiusiu.

Kotsu sima, centre
Oro no sima, or Obree Island -
Kuri no kami, or Swain Reef •
Yebosi sima or Cono Islet, lighthoupj
Hakosaki Bay, Fakuoka, lighthouse
Iki sima. Go no ura, Ham bima
Yobuko Harbour, Taka siraa, lighthouse

Observation spot
Eirado sima, Port Firando, Hirago sima

Tas'ke lighthouse -
Yenoi sima, S.E. point •

Fuku she Rock, beacon
Ooto Islands, Uku sima, East point

Hardy Harbour, I^Iiu sima, N. point

Fukai, camber

Om saki, lighthouse

Lat.
North.

47 8
46
24 30

42 19 54
41 56

43 2 22
43 26 47

43 20 30

44 20
46 31

41 26 30

42 15 30

42 47 30

43 20

43 14

44 20
44 2S
46 27

40 31
39 11 53
38 29 36
38 19 55
37 49 15
37 56 26

36 47 47

37 11 65
37 30
37 35
37 50 30
36 12
35 47 30

35 32 9

36 11 58
34 46 30
34 38 30
34 30 30
34 24 36
34 21 30

34 16
33 62
33 48
33 41
33 35
33 43
33 33
33 32
33 23
33 23
33
33 4
33 16
32 48
32 41
32 36

30
45
30
38
80
5
31
20
45
25
30
40
45

Kiut.

Authorltlea.

140 43 44
140 42 37
140 12

140 69 33

143 16

144 51 60

145 52

145 32

146 24

141 64 30
140 9 30

139 34

140 21
140 22

140 64

141 40
141 17
141 36

139
137

139 31
139 34 17
139 16 7
138 30 30
138 26 25
3 66
3 42
126 55 58
137 19
136 64
136 55
136 8
135 68
135 12 41
133 19 20
131 7
131 36
131 17
130 68 42
130 50

130
130
130
129
130
129
129
129
123
129
129
129
129
128
128
128

6 30
1 30
16 45
58 60
23 45
38 40

64
62 66

32 5

33 33
21 40
26 30

9 30

65 62
50 60
36 6

Chart.

Richards, 1855.
Ward, 1859.

Chart

Bullock,
Chart.

Gouldsborough.
Chart.
Kimotsuki.
Chart.

Pago

868
8o8
861

864
865
866
866
867
867
766
861
869
869
870
870
871
871
871

872
872
872
873
873
873
875
876
876
877
877
877
878
878
879
879
870
880
880
880

881
881
882

882
883
883

884
884
887
888
889
890
891
894
896
89S

H!(*

:^!^^^^»OCK^IICAL PosmoNS.

Slina^e Point ' ^'^Mhouae
Kaba fc.ma, South point

MoSr'^"---a.Oo„«kasa)<i

Koshiki lelanrfi T„t "

Taku «ima, Sy^aT's^- ^^'■'"

Udai8i„,a,Sou£'-'„d."°° ''"'*«
*EA OP Japan.

Ijiancourt Bocks .

^;rirck'^''^^^etis]a„a;pe„,.

Tsusizna Sound, Observator/Uock

•A o; M yf/f/zf,,

i-ii.st.

Authorities.

XXV

(I'iiiro

Chart.

I'^S 32 35
}29 45 13
125 61 13

129 46

130 25 30

120 2 20

130 12 4,5

129 50
129 44
129 44 20
129 25 30

»7 30 l3oi' M^°"J''h-
34 18 55 129 u zl

i^?!.

■m

S' '^■

XXVI

THE ISLANDS

i i

\ I I

Dincoveicr.

Likt.

ISLANDS BETWEEN THE
E(inATOR AND LAT. 10°
NUliTII.

Midpolo Tslnnd

Kivadoncyra Shoal -

Cocos Island, Chatham Bay Obs.

Walker Iwlaniis

Christmas Island, Cook Islot -

Fanning Id., English Ilaibuur,

Ih.gstiifr
Washington Island •
Pahnyra Island, I'alm Point -
Samarang Isles, West Islut
Kingman Koef
Baker Islantl, centre
ilowland or lluUand Island -

GiLHEUT Archipelago.

Anirai, or Iliird Island, S. pt. -
Nukunau or Byron Id., S. pt. -
Peru or Francis Id., ^. point -
Onoatoa or Clerk Id., Toumah-
Tamana Island, South end
Tuputoouoa, Bishop, or Drnm-

mond Island, Utiroa
Nanouti or Sydenham Island,

South extremity -
Aranuka or Ilonderville Id.,

South point
Kuria or Woodlo Id., N. ond -
Apamama Id., S. pass, Sand Kay
Maiana or Hall M., S. end
U'arawa or Knoy Id., S. W. extr.
Maraki or Matthew Id., N. pt.-
Apaiang or Ch:irlolte Island,

Bingham Passaro -
Taritari or Touihing Island,

S.E. point
Makin or Pitt Id., N.E. point -

Marshali. Akchitelaoo.

Mill or Mulgravo Ids., Barr Id.
Blajuro or Arrowsinith Lslands,

Jeridy Island
Arhno, Daniel, or Podder Ids.,

S.E. point
N.W. point
Aur or IlOielson Islands, ancli-
^lalo('lal) or Calvert Islaniiw.

Kaven Lsland -
Erikuli or Bishop Junction Id..

South point
Wotjo or IvoinanzofT Lslands,

Christmas Harbour

Lat. N.

Hivadoneyra, 1812

Walker, 1814
Cook, 1777.

Fanning, 1798

Saw'l'e, 1802
Scott, 1840
Kinirman
Foster
Belcher, 1842

'rho7i/i-«/w;(,i8io

Byron, i70.)
Clerk, 1827

Bishop, 1789

Marshall, 1788

ThoAV;:ff/W/(.1809?
Marshall, 17Ha

Alarshall, I78S

Marshall, 17S8

4
4

5
3
1 57 17

32 57
34

Lonff.

3 61 26

4 41 3d

5 49 4
4 55 9

6 27 30
13 30
49

Lat. S.
2 40 54
1 23 42
1 27 30

1 53

2 33 45

1 12 30

48 30
Lat. N.

20 54

51 30

1 20 30

2 1 30

1 14 30

3 3 30
3 19 15

6 14

7 4

6 54 2

7 18 47

8 18 42

8 51

8 5G

9 28 9

Long. W.

8*1 36 6

85 10

87 2 10

149 15

157 27 46

159 22

ItiO 15

102

162

176

37
11 29
22 20
21
29 30
40

Authoritica.

Long. E.
170 54 30
176 31
175 .i9
175 30
175 55

174 43 30

174 27 30

173 37 15
173 23 30
173 51 14
173 30

172 56

173 20

172 68

172 M
172 57 45

171 46

171 24 30

171 44 10
171 38 38
171 12

170 49

170 6

170 17

Aldham.
HivadcnojTa.
.Sir E. Belcher.
Walker.
Skorrott.

Richards.

Wilkes.

Skerrett.

Scott.

mean.

Meade.

Dut.aillis.
Chart.

Moore, 188 1.
Chart.

Pftge

Bcrard.
Chramtschenko,
Mcado.
Kotzebut;.
Cliart.
»»

Kotzeljuo

923
923
925
926
927

929
930
930
931
932
932
934

939
910
910
941
941

941

043

944

945
945
946
i)47
948

948

949

919

95J
955
9.'i5
957
957
958
958

Likie
S.E.I

Ji'mo '

Mejit

Ailuk
Ailull

Taka .

Uiirik :

Bikar i,

Hongolii
Island!

Kongorili
I^-land

Bikini, _
AilinifiniJ

^V'ottl^o c_
Ujae or cl
Lao or Br
Munschik(
Lib Iiilanc
NamuorM
(Mia or Eli
Jabv'at Isli
JahiiiorBo

Island, N
Kill or Hut
Namorik or
Ebon, Bosto;

Ebon Isla:
Eniwftok o

Parry Isla:
Ujilong or

Uyelang, >

THE CARO
PELA(

Kusaie, Ualan,

Coquillo I

Port Lele, 1

Jliiekaw Reef

Pingelap or Mi

Tugulu or

MukilorDuper

South poin

Ponapi or Seni;

Kiti Harb.,

Metalanien li

Ant or Anden

island

I'akin Group,

West point

Kgiitik or Val

East extrem

ftukuuror Mont

Efist point
Matador Island
Gnvr.v.ieh or Co
''laluk or Bordel
l^unkiii Ki.ef (?)
Jjosap I4iind
" L'rviUe Islaud

WKT

-^^^^^i;:::!!!!^

J<'ib>vat iyi,,^j islands, Airek -
^"'Wftok or iL ""'^

Discoverer.

Kotzebiio, 1817
'^oUbLuo, 1817
•^f't'Hhal], 1788

WaJlig, I7C7P
Kotzobue, 1817

Shfinii, 1835

,»rown, isoy

bonnet (P)
^°°d. 1792

•"ennet (p)

■'Jennet
iJond, 1792

^'••y. IS24
DutJer, 1794

r.,u.
•><)itii.

9 48
10 G
IC 17 30

10 12 30
'1 2
'I U 30
1^ U

Autheritios.

XXV ii

/''ilfc'O

1(>9 21
KJIJ 42
170 5j

170 4

Ui!) (7
'(-■■'J .-57
170 lu ,

f t'hurt.

'' '« 107 43

/I H 3J
11 40
II 6
10 11
8 48 ,
8 57 (
8 41 t
8 19
7 69
I 12 30
7 43

5 oS 29
5 42
5 35

IOC 59
160 24 2.5
166 3.5
166 6

106 8
100 27

107 46 30
10/ 28

108 11
108 53 ,)
169 4 30

/vtwbuo.
t hat.

I'rovidtnce, igii

"^^^°<!■xr"'■

109 39 19 Lr

109 9 Or. ■'■•'' 1S84.

168 6 o'^^'"'-

f^''^2iol,,.„„^^_

''*^^25 /chart.
fl61 19

»»

962

' 962
963
962
963
964
964
964
965
!'06
966

' 967
967
968

Kusaio, Ualan, or Sf, . I

Inland *^'°"P. «outJil

Dl-

*?1' r^)a,i(J

"•"Uo IslaaJ

S26

'"> 1824

'''■«i-, 1824

-1 20 / IfjQ r „ /

^* 30 160 52 on
^^ M59 53

' ""'^3 30 Ch,ut.
•10 / 157 44 f. I ,

"1157 32
o/lS o',;/^'l^rvii,o.

, 9S,5
98a

7 38

8 oO
6 53
C 59

.34 4a

I 1.55 9
154 1

I 152 42

152 33

(Mo;

ntriivtil.

irt.

20 IJ

J^unk

in.

" t liait

"J'tsrroy.

988

989

990

991

<t .i

V|*

'-fi-.',(

|i :

in rl

I :

XXVIII

TAIJLE OF GEOGRAPHICAL POSITIONS.

Discoverer.

I.Kt.

I.iinif.

Kiisl.

.'\uthut'itic>.

I'.'He

Lat, N.

Mortlock Islw, Port Chamiaso,

O , h

Lukunor Islnnd

Mortlock, 1793

.') 20

153 58

Liiiko.

992

Sotoau, Ta laUnd, W. end -

5 17

153 40

Chart.

&93

Namoluk Ormip, Amcsse Id. -

Liitko

5 45

153 16 30

Liitko.

993

Triik or Hogoluu Ids., l'i»o Id.

Uiiperrey, 1824

7 42

151 40

Duperrey.

99*'

South Island

6 57

151 57 30

Chart.

994

Tsis Island, N.W. point

»»

7 18

151 48 30

DUrviUe.

994

Hull IflHiids, Moiirileii Island -

Hall

8 41

152 25

Chart.

990

Liitku ur East Ftiiu iHliitid

Lutko

8 33

151 20

Lutko.

990

Numonuito CIroup, I'iserarr Id.-

Ibargoitia, 1801

8 34

152 32 30

»i

997

Tumatam or Los Martircs, E. id.

Duperrey, 182 1

7 27

149 28

Knorr.

997

I'uloat or Endurby Islunds,

Alet Island

Ronncck, 1820

7 19

149 15

Frevcinot

998

Silk or Ibargoilia Island

Ibarguitiii, 1709

6 40

148 23

Chart.

999

Pikolot or Conuillo Islot

Duporrey, 1824

8 9

147 42

Liitke,

999

West Fain Iskt

Torres

8 3

146 50

Chart.

999

Hiitawal or Tucker Island

Wilson, 1793

7 22

147 6

Duperrey.

1000

Lamotrek or Swodo Ida., S. id.-

i»

7 27

146 30

Liiiko.

1000

Elato Island

»»

7 30

140 19

1000

Olimarao Isles

Lutko, 1828

7 43

145 50 45

1000

Ifalik or Wilson Ids., S.E. pt.-

WUson, 1793

7 14

144 31

1001

Woloa Group, N . extremity •

7 22

143 57 53

1001

Itaour Island, N. uxtreme -

7 21

143 57 30

1002

Foraulep Island

Liitko, 1828

8 30

144 30

1003

Eauripik or Kama Islands

Hunter, 1791

6 4"

143 10

1003

Sorol or Philip Islands, E. id. -

8 6

140 3

1004

Fais or Tromilin Island

Tromelin, 1828

9 40

140 35

1004

Ulithi or Mackenzie Ids., Egoi,

East o.xlrcmo

10 7

139 54 58

Wilkes.

1004

Mopjmog Island -

10 6

139 45 30

Liitke.

1004

Yap, Eap, or Unawb Id., N. id.

Hunter, 1791

9 37 25

138 7 50

D'Urville.

;CJ5

Hunter Keef

9 07

138 22

Hunter.

10U7

Nfifoli or fllutelot^s Ids., N. id.-

Vilklobus, 1545

8 35

137 40

Cheyne.

1007

I'ai.au or Pklkw Islands.

Kvangle Island, centre

8 2

134 38 30

Knorr.

Kll

Habelthuap Id., N.E. oxtr. -

7 40

134 38 45

1011

Korror Hr., Mulackan Pier -

7 19

134 31 45

Oravenor.

1012

Eil Malk Island, S.E. point -

7 11

134 27 30

Kuorr.

1013

I'elelew Id., island off' S. point

6 58

134 10 15

1014

Angaur Id., id. oflf S.VV. pt. -

6 50
Lat.

134 10

1014

Anachor&tes Island -

Bougainville, 17G8

.'iO

145 30

Bougainville.

1015

Comraerson Island -

145 17

Chart.

1010

Itoudeuse Island

1 26

144 34

liougainville.

1016

L'Echiquier Id., N.E. point

1 3

144 24

Bridge.

1010

Hermit Islands, Feme Islet

Maurello, 178 1

1 28

145 5 45

Sanders, 1874.

1016

]\latty Island

Carteret, 1767

1 40

142 50

D'Entrecasteuux

1017

Duiour Island

1 33

143 12 30

1017

1'iger Island

Bristow, 1817

1 45

142 2

Bristow.

1017

New GiiNKA.

Capo King William

6 1

147 38

Moresby.

1018

Astrolabe 13., Pt. Constantino

5 29

U5 40 b

Cliurt.

1019

Humboldt Bay, Challenger

Covo ...

2 30

140 42 11

H.M.f..Cfin!hngir

1021

Point D'Urville -

1 24

137 47

Jacquinot.

1022

Geelvink Bay, Jobi, Anisus

Harbour, Station Point -

1 44

135 49

Powell.

1023

Danger Islet

135 3

( hart.

1024

Port Dorei, Mana-Souaii I.

134 7

1024

Lat. N. 1

St. Darid or Freowiil Islands -

TTnrmck, 17(U

134 21

Williams.

1024

Helen Reef, N.N.E. end

Seton, 1794

lol 52

I'oJcrson.

1025

Tobi or Lord North Island

Uid y,.,il,, I7M

3 3

131 4

Chart.

1026

Muriere or Warren Hastings I.

U»tchiuBon, 1701

4 19

132 28 30

McClellan,

1026

Annnl
fciausol

ISLA]

Ti'i

ClippeJ

Passioil

Ukvili

Socoil

TABLE OP OEOGRAPHICAL POSITIONS.

XXIX

Anna or Current Island I rr ■ ,

bamoral or «t, Andrew lalandjSuf

1761

^oog. K.

4 39
6 20

132 4
132 20

ISLANDS BETWFPv t a
TITUDES l5o & 2o^N

Clipperton Island, rock
1 «ss.on Idund or I{ock

jMaurjr.

Clipporton, J 705
JJubocago

•I Villalobos, 1542

f^myth, IS07

I wuko, i7ae

. .oiauu or Kock

bocorro or 8. 'I'omas, hmith
wa.to Bay. landfng-placo

'tUrB^'^--i^ja„d:

Johnston Islands, w" islpt "/ t ..
CHspar Kico,or8„,yth IsiLds'l °''"'*°"> ''^"^
Wakes Island

Mariana or Lai.hone Ids •- '
^VAM, Ajayan P„int ' "

ttI ]* ^i5"* ^''°"l (P-J-) -

lama'K"''^'.^^™'^^"

Port Tarofofo .
Itola Island, summit
Affinjan Island, centre
"vmaV;^«°'^'^--'«Road,

Saipan Id Magicienno Bav
^i'rallon do Modinilla ^
Armtaxan Island, centre
Sariguan Island -

lioib'''^''"'''?'^^''''^^.-;
Guguan Island ."
Alamagnn Island, E. point
l'«g:m Island, N.E. ;„^d
Agngan Island, S.E. point

Am.ncion Island, crattr
Urracas Islands .

'"i(.jaS'' "^ ^-"- d
I-indsay Island (e. d )
I'liirencu Shoal .

Dugay Trouin litef -

10 17
17 II

' Long. W.

109 13 Sir P n 7 u
I •'I u Woolndgu.

11027
1 1027

IC28
1029

18 42 67 1 110 56 r,-i
18 59 40|U2 7 30

Dowoy.

18 20 30
16 44 48

14 41 30
19 18

I Foster, Sec

T'oiigJas

f'iiiiisay

Wa<Isw"(jrth
■Denier

SANDWICU ISLANDS.
Hawaii, Cape Kumukahi
''\ran''d^"°^">-'>'--Nut

Makahanaloa Point -
aiauna Kca Volamo
Ll">lu Point

Kawaihao Bay, lighthouse
llauna Hualalai

114 43 10
169 39 35
Long. E.
168 56 15
166 41 15

11 If, 144 43 40

12 30 144 15

A o i^. h^ 39

13 19 50 |I44 37 30

11 fl ^5 1 144 39 45
13 18 9 144 45 j

* 7 30 145 13 4
J^ 51 145 31

Sir E. Belcher,
"rooko.

Freycinet.
Chart.

D'Urvillo.
Froyciuot.

Sanchez.
Dupurrey.

14 59 22

15 8 30

15 Cd 20

16 20
16 41

16 51

17 16 50

17 35

18 7

18 46 20

19 45

20 6 35

145 36 20

145 43 55

146

145 40

146 47

145 60

145 50 16

146 51 5.5
145 52
145 41 45
145 29
145 20

(1030
11031
11031

1032
1 1033

1 1034
11035

1 1042

1043

11044

|1044

(1047

1049

19 90 ." P^^ 8 10

19 f H3 18
19 6 124 43

Harvey.

Sanchez.
Froycinot, &c.
oauchoz.

I Foster.
Froycinet,

Sanchez.
Wilko.s.
Sanchez.
■t'reycinet.

Sanchez.
Lind.say.

Widsworth.
Denior.

(1049
(1053
(1054
(1055
(1056

(1055

(1056

(1067

(1057

(1058

(1059

1 1059

(1069
(10(30
(lOiiO
(lOOI

19 30

19 43 51
19 61 30

19 49 10

20 IG 30
20 2 58
19 42

Long. W.
(154 61 15

155 5 15

156 6 15
1'''5 28 iG

155 5G

156 51
155 53 30

Chart.

' Maldun.
Chart.

Chanibrd.
Chart.

1 1073

(1074
1077
1072
1078
1078
1072

r^'i-^-'

€•'-;

I 4

• ('

asx

:!^:::^jzj:^;;^^>^c^l Posm„.v3.

Discoverer.

Ut.

North.

'""(f.

■MoLoKAi Uoi ' ■^'" '^- point .
Laeo'kite,°rf. point.

Wiiiinoa
I'oint Mana

l^oiiglas, 1789

Los A hjos Rocks .

Iteed Hocks ' ^' P°'"t

j^'-^^cker Islan >, centre

GardnerTlSd'''*'''^"" ■

M^'roIW N.W.end"
f owset lieof

3f 'S.? '"'-:

J^rusonstoru Rock .' '^'^ ^'''

flicllish Jiunk ''

Jf">cu8 Island
^J-.i.,i(o..j„,,,„J^^^^^^^^_.

N'^rarqiiina, Uoi

''L'ld, I8o0
Lit Perouso.

'-rooks, hs.iu

AiU-n, 1820

Alien, KS20

J'^'iii'ifkaiiuha
Ainorifan
Libiansky, I805

'/^''W-t*, 1822

Brooks, 1859

Americnn
I^iMiioaky, 1805

'luthuiitio.

I Long. VV.
10 37 -h \m 4 20

19 29 (
19 28 (

18 /)4 c

19 25
^'0 35
20 16
2l> J2 35
20 64 15
20 52
20 39
20 38 ii)
20 37 30
20 28

, 20 46

20 56

21 9 (
21 G c
21 18 15
21 38
21 34 13
21 18 G

156 2
155 38
155 41 .
1)5 IS
150 25
150 I
1'50 15 „
156 27 49
156 42 30
1'56 28
156 30 45
150 35
150 43

156 51

157 4

156 43

157 19

157 39 i

158 4
158 16

Uuperroy. Lg^,

Wiil.l.
U.S.Iix.Expo.ln,

Chart.

<'la|)p.
Wiart.

••

21 57 50
21 52

21 57 12

22 1 30
22 13
21 46 „
21 59 46

''^^^'"M^ckson.

159 27 20
159 28 3U
159 40
159 47 30
159 20
ICO 13 30
100 6 30

jlfiO 8 45

160 32 30

|10I 45

Chart.

24 58
20 10 50
37 35
23 35
23 40
23 52
25 40
25 31
-'5 13
25 47 17
20

115 52 36
118 17 ;iC
137 30
164 40
100 16 10
160 40
107 59
1"0 37 30
iro 38
i"l 52 4-
173 57

^^ 30 175 4g

^;i'''ini, 1799
JXorroll, 1825

Marshal], 1788

-'8 14
28 13 30
28 24 45
22 15

28 9

29 57
34 25
24 14
21 40

1"7 23 15
1"7 18 20
178 27 45
175 37
Lf'Ug. E.
'5 48 -

Chart.
'•Tessan.

'f<"l field.

rJruoko,

Jlrooke.

Brooks.

iirooke.

,, "
•-"ptjiin.
iirooke.
Brooks.

Reynolds.

174 31

178 47

154

1 151 35

T • •"
iwsiansky.

'^ipijiii." (?)
Jlorroll.

I Belknap.
I ^larshalj.

1082

1072

1085

1072

1080

1086

1080

1087

1089

1090

1091

1092

1093

1 094

1094

1096

IlIOO
llloi
(1101

1 1102
(1102

1 1103
(1104

/l'05
1 1105
1 1105

11107

I '107

(1109

jlllo

/I112

(1112

Ini2
(1113

|1U3
|1U4

|llI6

jlIlS

1118

1 1122

11123

j'l

^^!^!;!!!!!!^^

i:>>i<t<i, 1851
^""'lo'ii^re, IS07

VoiXAxf,J2S8o"thi8]etP.
«"Jphur Island •'^"8"''"''o

f »wa sima
«'»>JonRX*'«°° Islands.

vS"hi -"wukido;

Ofe;Z,.t'"«. .summit"

j?cep Bay
,^,«l'e Hefo
,.fapo ynkim,, ."

T,:sr^' ^°"''' po'-nt

SrMffoo, 1773

;?':«'•<"*. ir.ss

27 44 35

27 30
27 2
27 5 3.
2fi 30 (

24 14 c
2'< 40

25 24 54
25 34

27 13
21 43 30
20 30
24 35
24 28
26 52 46
30 60
ZO 44
30 20
30 27
30 48 30
30 47 15
30 42
30 45
30 49 30
30 60

,"2 15 (,
1'12 10
142 1, 3„

Ml 20
]\\ 19
111 16 45

HO 40
140 60
136 10
134
,131 26 „
' ■?/ ^2 15
\i^ 3 30
130 62
130 31
130 14
130 26 3 J
130 18
130 19
130 7
129 60
129 20

I fieechoy.

Krusonstern.
(-hurt.

Ln.'trt.
Qiiin.

-^ ""/'', &c.
mean.

Kondjitk.
Knorr.
I'.rry.
Cetillo.

<''hfut.

1850. '

30 4
, 29 69
29 63
' 29 64
29 62
, 29 41
29 38
' 29 27 (
29 13 (

,29 8 C
I 28 48

\m 3

129 60
129 38
129 33
129 52 30
129 32 30
129 42
129 37 30
29 20 30
29 13 30
/129 2

'''* "129 47 30

p'««c.hcht.,i84G,K
'll44
1144

'^""■"- /1145
|1I45
|1I45
|1145
|II45
|1146
1 1145
/1146
fll46
|1146
|ll4G

1130

1131

1132

1130

1137

1138

1139

113a

1139

1140

1141

1142

1143

28 31

28 18

, 28 J8

27 46

' 27 52 30 /]28

/129 42

11^ ^2 30

29 59 30

128 68

Chnrt.
Chart.

lira, I

^-^te^3j
26 "I '' \^i n 'o

26 5 1274/

II I': It kl '' 20
or ',i " 1 126 49 QA

'' '^^ '127 14
i

c£t!''""^^'''-

|1147

|1147
|ll48
/1I49
I1149

[1149

/1I49
1 1150

/II50
1153
,1154
|1155

/1155
/1166
fll66
|1156

.1 ^

. I'

'Jo

i ->

txxii

TATII.E OF riEOORAniirAL POSITIONS.

Ili-inHllT.

l,i>t.

Nortli.

I.IJTIH.

Aiillinrilin.

I'Kt

( 'y

** ( *

MriACo-HiMA Inlands.

Kiimi Islanil, Woat rinl

24 2.')

122 r.(i

Chart.

1157

Kii-kicn-Biin, Wust uml

21 ly

123 38

!!')«

lliisyokiin, or Hiuiily Inland -

24 3

123 40

1168

I'lk-chiiDK-Hiwi, IVrt llitd-

dinptun, North point
Tai-pm-Hnn, Junk Bay,

24 25

124 6 30

11.')!)

South point

24 45 30

1215 10

11(10

Hnn-pin-su, Norlh sidi

■i.i 47 7

123 .'iO 30

1102

Ti-a-uBu -

2.") as 30

123 40

•t

11G3

Italuigh Rock

\mH.J}alri!/h,\S:\7

25 57

124 2

1103

llecruit loliiud

Lyall, t8(>l

25 67 40

124 43

moiui.

11G3

03.

77.

80.
bi). I

Ho. I

ADDENDA.

(Thv Julhwinij mfotmation hat been received too late/or iniertion in the Book.)

TAOE
4y. I Imliistn'f Rock oould not be found on a close examination of the localit}' by

the U.S.S. Ilaiiiji'f, and has been removed from the charts. A 2-fathoin!i

»\\uix\ and a rock awash lie about half u mile offshore, in lat. 12^' 8' 4U N.

03. I PORT REALE JO, or Co;( i'jto.— The lighthouse on Cardon Island has been
burnt. A temporary light is shown, visible 2 or 3 miles.

77. I SAN JOSE DE' OTJATEMALA.— A railway is completed to the capital,
which is about 80 miles distant, and o,()()0 ft. above sca-levcl.

80. I Champerico. — A railway is completed to lletalhuleu.

bl). I Morro Ayuca. — A rock, with 10 ft. water on it, lies IJ mile S.W. J S. from
the southern extreme of Ayuca Point.

05. I Sacrijicios lU -Sacrijivios Hock, of 11 ft., on which the U.S.S. Tunamn-a
touched, lies near the fairway entrance to the inner anchorage, with the
West entrcmc of Saerificios Island bearing N. by W. f W., the S.E. ex-
treme N.E. by N., nearly, and 810 yards E. by N. J N. from the South
extremity of the West entrance point.

131. I I'uisllu Point. — The reef is reported to extend IJ mile oil'. The best anchorage
northward of it is with Tiastla I'oiut bearing B. i E., and San Miguel
Point N.W.

171. I San Lorenzo iicc/has a hlack buoy on its southern edge.

197. I San Geronimo Island. — Heavy breakers were seen from the U.S.S. liuufier,
just Nortli of San Antonio Point. The North breakers bear, approximately,
S.E. by S. f S. from Uaja I'oint, and N. i W. from San Geronimo Iisluiid ;
the South breakers, S.E. by S. ; S. from Baja Point, and S.E. by E. ] E.
from the island.

211. I Santa Monica. — The pier has been destroyed; Wilmington is now the only
port of J.iih AUtjck'ti.
North rtuijir.

i',^

; - 5 f T

■'^>'

;*■*

ADDENDA.

PACE

2a7. I MoiiUmt Point.
half minutt.

-Tl-.. Fill/ Whistk now sounds a blast of 5 scroiids in every

'iU. I SAN FRANCISCO.— An elkctuic light, visible a long distance seaward, is
shown on TvUyraph Hill, as a guide for the ferry boats.

Time Signals. — Ou TeUyraph Hill, and on Mare Inland (p. 248), balls
arc dioppcd at uoon, mean time of the 120th meiidian.

329. I PORT AKGELOS.— During fogs a Uell (in a white pyramidal structure,
108 yards N.W. by N. from Ediz Hook lighthouse) is struck by machinery
once every 1 5 seconds.

337. I PUGET SOUND.— A steam Fog Whistle, giving a blast of 6 seconds in
every minute, is established on Robinson Point, Maury Island, in lat>
47' 23J' N., long. 122° 23' W.

382. I ACTIVE PASS. — On Georgina Point, East side of the northern entrance, is
a squoi'c white wooden lighthouse, 42 ft. high, showing a Jixed bright
light, elevated 55 ft., and visible 12 miles, between S.W. ^ S. and E. ^ N.,
through West and North.

.756. I CAFE SOTA LIGHTHOUSE.— On Cape Soya, the North extreme of
Yezo, is an iron tower, 54 ft. high, painted white with three black bands.
It shows a revolving light, with a flash every half minute, elevated
132 ft., and visible 17 miles, between W. § S. and E.S.E., through North.

In foggy weather a Bell is sounded twelve times every minute.

The light and fog signal are discontinued from December to March,
inclusive.

630. I Macedonian "R.eei.—Kamegi Shoah\,\ih IJ to 2J fathoms on it, lies about
1 J mile W. J S. from Macedonian Kcef. It is about 7 cables in extent
N.E. and S."\V., with u breadth of 3 cables.

THE

NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN.

CHAPTER I.

>^: r^*"

THE COAST OF CENTRAL AMERICA.

The country whose southern coast is described in this chapter, includes that
long, narrow, and irregular tract which forms the junction between the
northern and southern continents of America. Up to a recent period it was,
politically and socially, most unimportant, and our knowledge of it was almost
inferior to that acquired by the early Spanish possessors. But since the
colonization and development of the resources of North-west America, conse-
quent chiefly on the gold discoveries, it has rapidly drav.n the attention of all in-
terested in shortening the highways of coniraex-ce, to the facility it affords for
an inter-oceanic transit. The great success and surpassing utility of the
Panama Kailroad, completed January 27th, 1855, increased the desire that a
ship canal should be cut through the isthmus, aiid an attempt to carry out this
grand project is now being made, under the direction of M. F. do Lesseps, as
hereafter mentioned.

The eastern portion of the great isthmus, that of Panama and Darien,
belongs to the United States of Colombia (formerly called New Granada),
which have the excluske privilege of this important transit. On the western
boundary of this state is the republic or state of Costa Eica, one of the former
confederation of republics of Central America.

This territory, including an area of 1 Go, 051 square miles, is now divided
into the five republican states of Guatemala, Honduras, Nicaragua, San
Salvador, and Costa Eica. The Federal District, winch up to 18;'5 was
Nurth Pacific. B

'''""' '"■''' "■■■ "-^VniAL AMKWCA.

, ' "■"•■■■ " 'liviJeil fr„„, ,,,,,( of jr ' , Guatemala, the western

i:;.'; r ■* ■■■■ "T- '«-■ - r; ;?: "" '- — »- «.:;:

I oeen very imperfectly

on .he AU He. "? '"^''''' '''^^- ''°''> -^u^ : Narrative' tT' T ' ^'^'^ '^^ ">^
--^« of Cap,. S/rEdw ^; H ;r V*^" '^' ''' '''■'^' ".v ,^ '' te'? '^?'-

Bovlfl Pl^ao ,, tontral America, arc- A 7?;^ .

t^eograpluoal Socie,, ," April, ,«s;, "' '" '" ''^""'^ "" '"o "IToceedings of the Hoy ai

the

..fly

Col.

(ho

of
•ho
kh
m,
nd

TIIl'l COAST OF CENTRAL AMERICA. 3

Mountains. — In describing the general physical features of the country,
these naturally become the first in order, influencing as they do the rest of its
surface.

The elevated range (a contintiance of the Andes) in Central America has no
determined name, and is in many parts without a visible existence. It com-
mences in Costa liica, at a distance from the Pacific of about one-fourth of tlie
whole breadth of the isthmus, and, at the beginning of its course, separates
this state from Veragua ; in Nicaragua it inclines close to the borders of the
I'acific, leaving the lakes on the East ; in Honduras it returns towards the
Atlantic, leaving the whole stite of Salvador on the South ; traversing Guate-
mala, the new city and Chimr.ltenango stand on the top of the ridge, which
now becomes more elevatcl as it approaches Mexico, and branching uito
various groups, forms, in the western part of the state, that region which is
vVnominated the highlands. The population on the Pacific side of the chain

much greater in proportion to its extent than on the Atlantic slope.
.he chain is apparently interrupted in its course through Central America
by the transversal valleys containing the Lake of Nicaragua and the plain of
•Comayagua, but still the elevation between the two oceans is considerable, and
will be more dwelt upon when we describe the proposed canals, wliicli would
render Central America of very great importance in the commercial workl,.
should they ever be carried into execution.

The Lakes of Nicaragua and of Leon, or Managua, are amongst the most
important features of the country. On the Pacific .side, the rivers wliieh are
met with rarely have their sources above 60 miles from the sea. Tlic Lempa
is the principal, but is not navigable. The next in size is the llio Clioluteca,
falling into the Bay of Conchagua.

Although not jjossessed of good harboui's, yet it is still superior to Mexico in
this respect. Vhe principal on the Pacific coast arc, Punta Arenas, lloalejo
or Corinto !.* i'lion, Libertad, Acajutla, and San Jose.

Voice ■%%,. ;e'..i.-*/.>n« are frequent, and their devastating effects have been, at
times, v•^•^ .\-. . . The principal voleanos now, or recently, in activity, arc
those of Cos'?j^'.. "a, f ■ alco, de Agua, and dc Fuego, and many others ; of these
the Volcan de . ,^ ta is the loftiest, being dilTerently stated as 14,895 or
12,620 ft. above he Pacific.

These volcarii .; cones, often separated from the general chain, and sufficiently
lofty to be vis'ole 60 miles off, are most magnificent land-marks, and are thus
most important aids to navigation. There are usually eight of these voleanos
in activity — Isulco, las Pilas, Atitlan, Fuego, San Miguel, Momotombo, Orosi,
and CartiUiO. Of these the first, Isalco, is an excellent beacon light, which
overtor.,, r. .asonate; las Pilas is of recent formation, thrown up in 1850, and
nlthouyh , : ..^-ios generally emit only sinoke.

'llic produclioHH of C'euliul xViuericu are important. The Tisingal gold

&■ V

■ I ■ ■

>;: ■■^^,

THE COAST OP Ppvtp * r

^t CENTRAL AMERICA.
*^ninoiif> To

"ines. near the Chirin r AMERICA.

afforded as ™„eh ^01.11 t^r^f P J^T ^^'^^^^ »^^e of Costa Riea .
of greater importance than T *^ '" ^"* ^^e vegetable '/'""' ^«^e

coffee, sugar, and ooTton Le V '"™' ^' ^^^-ated^ its'" '''°" "^'^
height of the country ;! ™°'' Prominent. These T '' '"'''^°'

-tton are grown L ' ^'^ ^^«^»*-° than 3 000 ft T-'"^ "''^ ^he

An^encan possessions I„Z ^'"°'"'''« *« be the best furn t . . ' '*°'^

or the nopal cactus, cu i^'ir™' *'^''"^''-* the Jo 7'^^^ ''^.*^-

the exports, coffee holds the first 1, "'' '' '""''''^'^S rapidlv „

'nd>go. cochineal, sugar. /. ?* P ' "^^ ''*'^« ^"antiL S^' "°T^
o«^»ent coffee is exported t "j "^T*^ ^'•^"««. ^ the Gulf of V '^'°'''
«-«..-_ThewhoLjfec ^'^^ ''-tin the Pacific^'' ^'^^'''°^«'-

but the temperature and sfllnK""* ^'"^"*'" " ^'tuated between tl. ^

On the Pacific side, howe: r tl tT^', °^ ^^^ ^- World ' ''^ ""^^
are not sufficiently hi^h tn ' ! '^^ "^'"^ «till blows for ,u

--h of its moisture Sd'T"' '""^'^ ^"^'^ -olen e ^^ / "°""'»''^«
The climate i, . "' ^^^ olimate is verv d.tf " ''^^"^od of

-re heX """^^^"^'-^^ -'-, much dri^atf !!" .^^ *^^^^'-tic side.

The climate is . *^"' ^^^ climate is verv ditf " ^"^"^od oi

"'^ to Witness an Pnf.v„ j.. - .

Jt is rare o wifn. "-"^^uenuy very much

'^ to Witness an entire Ho„ <• •
sometimes hii* .., i ^ "^^ rain, even in *»„> •

On the sea-eoast „f the Pacifi. .u

* '-. •>« .'« .„,.e,r 1 trrrr «-. -'" •'- - *«

— """■■''«'" the p„.i8^

■liiia country is go pje • — -

' ' '««dence m it will b„ fou«d inJlJ'' ""^''^^'^''fe' account of

^"^ ^^AST OF COLOMBIA
shores are healthy, although ♦), 5

S.E. to S.W., blowing ,„„ ,^ ™^. l^'" prevalent „i„d, ,,,.„ „; ™'
torrent, of r.i„ f„, ,„^,,^ or fLtelV""'"' """^-S ""d wether td
nearlv ever, ofternoon. .boot 3 H™ S' 'av ° T™'- "'""»« "■" -«n

^•E. and lasts till daylight Th , ' ^'°^^°* g"8t sets in fr«m ♦..

---do. on>,e ^teolt:"" ""- '" ™"'- '*"'-'. «: ^Lt

^ the coast of Central Amerion f>,
setting to the S V . "'"''* ^ne currents are variahlo k, * i

;.u».,orereo,e. o;Cnrr'^r' ^'"*" """•^--ree e,»«. .

There ,. eo„,idemble diiBeulty in .„' ^ T '"" °'«'°" »' Z«mboe..
"on of the i.th„o. in the eb.e„ee ofTnv " « ^ ^^ ~™'"' "" "» l»Pula.

= ^^c-t -5* - .eU::rb

"• ''^ P'^P^^^^-'^ '« now estimated ^t t^oo ooo "'""' '^"' '''''>'''

. r

1.;-

Li^'

( 6 )

1. THE COAST OF THE UNITED STATES OF COLOMHIA, OR
NEW GKANADA; PANAMA TO POINT BURICA.

In our volume descriptive of the South Pacific Ocean, the directions for tb'»
coasts of South America terminate with the Gulf of Panama. And this, al-
though it lies eight degrees North of the Equator, will be a fitting commence-
ment for our present work, as it is really the first point touched on by the
transit trade from the Atlantic side. We therefore rcji' from that work
those directions which refer to this portion of the coast of the United States of
Colombia, or New Granada,

Garachino Point on the East, and Cape Mala on the West, may be taken as
the limits of what is called the Gulf of Panama. These points lie E.N.E. and
W.S.W., true, 103 miles apart. The depth of the gulf within this line is about
80 miles, the city of Panama being at its head. Panama Bay is the space
between the main and the Pearl Archipelago.

Until the survey of 1849, by Captains Kellett and Wood, B.N., we were
dependent for our knowledge on the old but excellent Spanish charts, and on
the still singularlj' correct description given by Dampier, two centuries since.
The following description of the coasts and islands of the gulf is taken from the
Admiralty Directions, with additions from other sources.

The BAY of SAN MIGUEL, to the N.E. of Garachine Point, on the eastern
side of Panama Gulf, was well known to the Buccaneers, who used it as the
entrance to the Pacific in their overland journeys from the Gulf of Darien,
which they generally accomplished under 10 days. After Dampier's time it
was almost forgotten until 1851, when the idea of a ship canal was suggested
to connect it with Caledonia Bay, •"' the Gulf of Darien. The entrance to the
gulf is Gi miles wide, between Lorenzo Point on the North, and Patino Point
on the South.

Buey Bank, an extensive shoal, drying in patches at low water, on which a
heavy sea breaks, is 6 miles in circumference, its inner edge lying nearly 1 j-
mile S.W. from Lorenzo Point, but the passage between should not be used,
as there is only 10 ft. water in it, and generally a heavy swell. A spit with
12 ft. extends off its S.W. end for IJ mile, and only 4 J fathoms is found nearly
5 miles from it ; vessels should not stand within that depth. Colorado Point
kept open of Patino Point, bearing N.E., is a good mark to clear this bank,
and also for running into the bay. Further particulars of the bay, and of the
approaches to Darien Harbour, will be found in the South Pacific Director^-.

DABIEN HABBOUB, a magnificent sheet of water extending for 11 or 12
miles in a S.E. direction as far as the village of Chupigana, is formed by the
junction of the Tuyra and Savannah Rivers. The depth of water from Paley
Island as far as the mouth of the Savannah, a distance of 2 miles, is from 10
to 4^ fathums, beyond which there is not more than 12 to 18 ft. at low water

PlKl.lJlHKD BY R H I.M RU . •* H t > 1 "^TREIT U

di^MHMA

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r K 1^ U.A/»S

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MRU •< Ursn <^.THEl.T LONDON

illl

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'Sulphur /i»i'>.F"""' " '"■"'^
II

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ilSHED BY RH LAI RIE 53. FLE^

DARIEX IIAUnoUR— rKAUL ISI.AXDS.

sprinps. The best jilneo for anchoring is off tho vilhigo of I'almn, 1 mile to
the Houthwnrd of I'rice Point, on the South side of the Boca Chicii, in from
7 to 10 fathoms, nt about 3 cnblcs fnmi the shore.

The River Tuyra, the Sanln Maria of the Spnninnls nnd Ruccnnecrs, rises
in lilt. 7° 40' N., and enters Durien Harbour near the village of Chupiyaua.
The Hirer Chuchunaque, which flows into the Tuyra, rises in lat. 8' 50 N.,
westward of Caledonia l!ay on the Atlantic ; its course appears to have been
the favourite track of the Huceancers from the Atlantic to the Pacific.

Savannah River, which was tho one generally preferred for the proposed
junction of the oceans, rises in lat. 8" 44' N., and a few miles from its source
meets the liivrr Lara, where the bottom is level with the half-tide.

It is high water, on full and change, in Darien Harbour, at 4'', and the spring
rise is said to be 24 ft. The tides in the narrows at the entrance run propor-
tionally strong, and great care should therefore be taken.

San Jose' Bank, a dangerous shoal, 1 mile long by three-quarters of a mile
broad, in the centre of w'.iieh is TroUope Rock, with only 2 ft. water, lies in
the fairway of ships bound to Panama from the southward, being 15 miles
W. \ S. from Garachine Point, and 9 miles E.S.E. from Oalera Island, the
south-eastern of the Vc»t\ Islands. It is easily avoided either by keeping on
the main shore until Garachino Point bears to the southward of East, or by
passing about 2 miles from Calera Island, taking care of the shoal patch and
rocks off its southern side.

PERLAS, or PEARL ISLANDS, also known by the names of Mas del
Bey, Islas del Istmo, and Idas de Colombia, form an archipelago on the eastern
side of the Bay of Panama, consisting of sixteen islands and several rocks.
Isla del Bey is the largest, San Jose, Gonzales, Casaya, Saboga, and Pacheca
are of secondary, and the rest of minor importance. There are from 30 to 40
fishing villages scattered about these islands, containing about 2,000 inha-
bitants, chiefly engaged in the pearl fishery, which is said to produce about
two gallons of pearls a year ; the shells also form a lucrative article of com-
merce much inquired after by French vessels. In 1874 the government pro-
hibited any oysters being dredged for the space of seven years, on account of a
disease having appeared among them, probably owing to over-fishing. These
islands are low and wooded, the soil fertile, but not much cultivated ; most rf
them belong to merchants at Panama, who employ negroes to plant ■ :
cultivate them. The numerous cocoa-nut groves, and bright sandy beaches,
intersected by small rocky bluffs crowned with trees, give these islands a
pleasant aj)pearaucc.

Pacheca, Saboga, and Contadora, with the islets of Bartholomew and
Chipre, are a group in the northern part of the archipelago, forming between
them a good and capacious harbour, well suited as a depAt for steamers.
Pacheca and Contadora are covered solely by palm trees, unmixed with any
others, which is singular. Saboga, the largest island, on the East side of

^V|.

■•' . *'■■,

■t

S TIIK COAST OF COLOMIIIA.

which is n ponsiderahlc villngp, hns a roof oxtotulinp I. J mile to the northward,
which, with t'hiprc to the Moutliwunl, furmn the wcnUtii side of thin hurhoiir,
I'nclieca and Uartholoinew being on ihe northern, and Contadora on the Houth-
cnHtern side; the latter ishmd has 5 futhoinH close to it8 N.W. shore, which is
h)W and well adapted for wharves.

This harbour is about 2 miles long by nearly 1 mile broad, with an average
depth of y fathoms ; iv has three entrances, each possoesing a 6-fathoms chaimel,
which may be used as best suited to wind and tide. It is high water, on full
and change, at Saboga Island, ai 4*'; springs rise 11 ft.

Vessels 'ising the Pacheca Channel siiould pass within half a mile of the
small island West of Pacheca, and stand to the southward until the centre of
llartholomew Island bears E. by S. ^ S. Steer for it on this bearing until the
northern islets otf Saboga open wostward of Sabtga, bearing S. by W. i W.,
when the vessel m?} haul lO the southward for Contadora. Lieut. Fleet, 11. M.S.
Ganntt, 1880, remarkt that when entering by this channel upon the ebb tide,
the East extreme of Saboga Isla.nd must not be brought to bear eastward of
S. i E. to avoid belag set upon '.he N.E. rocks of the ledge extending North
from Saboga, several of which cover at from one-third to two-thirds flood.

If entering by the Contadora Channel, a ship should pass half a mile to the
e.istward of Bartholomew Island, and not stand to the westward before the
nearest islets North of Saboga open northward of Saboga, bearing W. by S. J 8.,
which leads through. Care must be taken not to open them too much, as there
is u 2-fathoms patch off the N.E. end of Contadora to be avoided.

Vessels frop'. the eastward using the Sahoya Channel, which is reported to
have several shoal spots in it and should be used with caution, should pass half a
mile eastward of Contadora, and continue standing to the southward until the
outer islet on the reef off the South end of Saboga opens southward of the
same island, bearing W. ^ 8. Steering on this course will clear the vessel of
the su iken rock in this channel, which lies nearly 1 mile off the South side of
Contadora ; and when Pacheca is shut in by Saboga, bearing N. i W., you
may stand to the northward, and run through the channel, which is steep-to
on both sides. If this harbour wert used, a few buoys would greatly assist the
navigation.

Chapera and Pajaros lie next to the southward, with a 4-fnthom8 channel
between them, but the grc und is foul, and it should not be used. No vessel
should attempt the passages South of Chapera Island, between it and Isla del
Rey.

Casaya, Bayonets, and Vi^eros, with several islets and rocks, are the largest
islands on what may be termed an extensive reef stretchin;^ off from the N.^V.
point of Isla del Hey, about 8 miles long by 6 miles broad, the passages between
them being foul v.ith occasional strong tides. A shoal, IJ mile long by three-
quarters of a mile wide, Laving only 9 ft. water on its shoalest part, lies nearly

MAY OF PANAMA— PKAUL ISLANDS.

4 I nle« to the cauwu d . ' the North point of Casiiya. The whole of these islands
dhoulil bo avoideil liy vc .scIh hound up t)ie bay.

I8LA DEL RET, the main island c( thn group, is about 15 milcH lonj» by
7 miles bmad, with se v 1 peaks on '"t, the highest being about 000 ft. above
the 8ca. Numerou.i islets, having di ep water between tben>, lie off its western
shore, extending 3 miles from the coaht, but they should not bo ajjproached by
strangers within the depth of 10 fathoniS. C'ocos Point, its -southern extreme,
is a remarkable promontory jutting into the sea, 4 miles long l)y about I mile
wide, its e.xtreme clitt' being crowned (in 1859) by an umbrella-like tree, which
makes it con.spicuous. East of this point is the fine liny of St. Elmo, with con-
Tenicnt anchorage in all parts, and a good stream of water at Lemon I'l int, in
the bight of the bay.

The eastern shore has also islands off it, but they are stccp-to, and may be
approached to half a mile, with the exception of Canas Island at the eastern
point, where there is a 3-fathoms patch lying outside a sunken rock, nearly 1^
mile from the shore.

San Migv.al, the principal town of these islands, on the North side of Isla
del Key, is of some size, possessing a conspicuous church ; it is, however, badly
situated, landing being difficult at low water. Two hills (the C'crro Congo and
Ccrro Vali) lie to the southward of it, the former being 181 ft. high. Supplies
are uncertain and dear, being generally all sent to I'anama. Care must be taken
in approaeliing it, as the bottom is irregular, and rocks abundant.

OALERA, a small island, generally the first land made by vessels bound to
Panama, is 7J miles E. J S. of Cocos Point, like which it is remarkable for its
umbrella tree. A cliff forms its southern side, sloping down to a beach on the
North, and to the southward a reef runs off for nearly 1 mile. 1 his island
should not l>c approached within the depth of 10 fathoms, but there is a good
passage between it and Cocos Point, by using which the vessel will be clear of
San Joso Bank.

GONZALES, or Pedro Gonzales, lies on the West side of Isla del Bey, with
a broad, deep channel between it and the islets before mentioned. It is about
12 miles in circumference, and has on its northern side two bays, protected
from the North by the Islands of Senora and Sciiorita. These bays, called
Pfri'j and Mayicienne, were re-examined in 1858 as to their capabilities for a
depot for steamers, and although not so good or so near to Panama as the har-
bour South of Pacheca, yet still have some advantages. They arc divided by
the little peninsula of Trapiche, off the East point of which is a rocky ledge,
terminating in a shoal with 14 ft. water, 3 cables from the point.

A large stream of water runs into the sea on the western side of Magicienno

Bay. This bay, however, is small and shoal, without the advantages of Perry

Bay, whieh is 1 mile wide, and runs back for the same distance. Senora and

Senoriia, including the shoal off their eii,stern side, are about 1 mile long, and

Ao/7/i Pacijic. ^

n..u

r '1

y. i

THE COAST OF COLOMBIA.

i !
i I

tiii

\\\

lie nearly tlic same distance northward of Triipiche, vrith a 7-fathoms channel
between, stoop-to on both sides.

Gonzales was purchased in December, 18.57, by the British Government, of
an Anierican citizen for £1,000, the New Granada Government consenting and
retainini;; the sovereignty. No building was to be erected on it, but a vessel was
to be moored. It was intended as a watering station for II. M. fleet.

It is high water, on full and change, in Perry Bay, at S"" 50"", the rise being
1 6 ft. The tide stream is not felt in the anchorage, but there is a considerable
set otl'the island, the flood setting to the northward, and the ebb to the south-
ward, the latter being generally the strongci*.

San Jose' Island, about 6J miles long by 3 miles broad, lies 4 miles directly
South of Gonzales, the summit forming a table land. Nearly 2 miles S.E. from
Isi;uana Point, the northern extreme, is a large waterfall, running into the sea,
and forming an excellent watering place.

Passage Rock is a dangerous sunken rock, with 1 2 and 9 fathoms alongside
of it, lying near the centre of the channel between San Jose and Gonzales,
which otlierwise is deep and clear. It is I.J mile from Gonzales, and 2 J miles
from San Jose. Vessels should keep between the San Joso shore and this rock.

The COAST. — Brava Puint forms, with Lorenzo Point, from which ii is
distant '2 m>lcs, the nortlicrn point of entrance to San Miguel Bay. Both these
jjoints ai'o edged with reefs and outlying rocks.

Farallon Ingles is a small but high island, lying at the edge of the shoal off
the River Buenaventura, about 5 miles to the northward of Brava Point ; 12 and
15 ft. water is found on its western side. Gorda Point, bold and woody, with
4 fathoms closo-to, lies 4 miles northward of the Farallon ; there is less swell
after pas;sing this point. The Pajarns arc two small rocky islets, 4 miles north-
ward of Gorda Point, with 4 and 5 fiithoms to the westward, but only 1 2 ft.
between tliem and the shore. At these islets the .5-fathoms shoal commences,
which continues in front of the coast round the Bay of Panama as far as Point
(;inim6, on its western shore.

The River Trinidad, 2^^ miles northward of the northern islet, has a low
rocky point, forming the S.W. point of the entrance. A lUfathoms channel was
found into this river, extending 1^ mile from the point. Sh(i(i Rock, a barren
islet, fre([ucnted by birds, with shoal water round it, lies 2i miles from this
entrance. Man(/ue and Majaciuay, 7 miles from the River Trinidad, are high,
wooded islets at high tide, lying on a mud flat. There is a depth of from 10 to
12 ft. water to the westward of them. C/iiman River, to the northward of the.se
islets, is wide at the mouth, but shoal, being nearly dry at low water. On the
eastern side, under a hill, is the small town of Chitnun. This was the spot to
which PizaiTo retired in 1.52.5, after beating iibout for 70 days with much dan-
ger and incessant fatigue, without being able to make any advance to the south-
ward. He was here joined by Almagro, und the following year they sailed again
for Peru.

the
has
sides!
need I
Ch|
I)ain[|
of the
mile
ascent
mark
within I
point il
is low
with sh
Thel
Ears, al
extreme
Chepo

■■■'•^'^^"'r'WKr

m \'w i m m* mm aM

Pelado Islet, W
the Kiver Chi

h' S. 4 miles from Afa

raepm» Wand 3, ^ , ^ ' '""•"■»■ "-l""

-.bin.™, „':;" ,"" ""' ""'■^ '"■^ .out* ^:'°'■'*''"«•-"»"™.
Js low river land w.-H. ■"''' c«ast bchveen ff,; . , "^ "ortheni

The land North cf these ' • • '

^«rs, about 19 «>•! xr ^*^''^ '""'^^'^'^o elovot;.^^ r^ ,

Chepo fiiver exte' ' ""■^P"^"""'*- '"*' "* *^'^' ^Vest

itssource near the herofTho t^'' "^ ^^e interior of the isth.n .
ward of Chepillo !«,„„,, th ..;;';;; ^^;-- i'i- entran:o':i "'"^
s^'ls should stand uo n^-.. ., ^''' ^^''"'"el, about s . 1 1 , "'•■'^-

PANAMA is one of the " r f
"™. Wi. , tl,ot f «'"l'li>l....mt of a ', "" '" ''"■''■». l.»t wa.

-—--...;. j:*:;--

,^' I ' ' '^' ''V' "'*>' ' r «3

1 ■f'\>.

4 A ■« ,:f

*>■

1^ ^

i; i
h i

i> I

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' i

THE COAST OF COLOMBIA.

The site of Panama has been once changed. Where the old city stood, which
is about 4 miles N.E. of the present situation, was aheady, when the Spaniards
first reached it in 1515, occupied by an Indian population, attracted to it by
the abundance of fish on the coast, and who are said to have named it " Panama"
from this circumstance, the word signifying much fish. They were, however,
speedily dispossessed, and even so early as in 1521, the title and privileges of a
city were conferred on the Spanish town by the Emperor Charles the Fifth. In
the year 1G"() it wus sacked and reduced to ashes by the buccaneer Morgan;
and it was only after this built where it now stands. Its present position is on
a tongue of land, shaped nearly like a spear head, extending a considerable dis-
tance out to sea, and gradually swelling towards the middle. The old site is
now quite deserted, but is well marked by a tower.

Immediately about Panama, East along the coast, and N.W. from it, the land
is low and flat, but West and N.E. the mountains approach it closely ; and from
a hill called Cerra Ancon, about a mile West from the city, and 540 ft. high,
an excellent bird's-eye view is obtained of the whole adjoining country, includ-
ing the city, the islands in the bay, the neighbouring plantations, the mountains
of V'eragua, the Pearl Islands, the flat country towards Chagres, the elevated
chain l)etween Porto-lJello and Panama, the Rio Grande, the low land along
the coast towards the Pacora and (.^hcpo, Panama Vieja, &c., all which come
successively under review, and together constitute a landscape beyond measure
l)eautiful.

The city consists of two parts, the city j>roper of San Felipe, occupying the
peninsula, and the suburb of Santa Ana on tiie isthmus. It contained a popu-
lation of 25,000 in 1881, 5,000 being foreigtun's, who form the business porti<m.
It has an imposing appearance from the sea, and is lighted with gas. There is a
fine cathedral, built about two centuries ago, and lately repaired and restored.

Panama affords the usual sup()lies which are to be obtained in tropical re-
gions, but are generally dear; provisions of exctUent quality may, h<.wever, be
obtained from the United States by ships requiring them ; and, when time will
admit of it, getting such from the States is far preferable to purcha.sing in the
markets of Colon or Panama,

Water can be obtiiined at I'anaraa from the tank of the United States' mail
steamers ; but it is cheaper at 'I'aboga, where it may be purchased at 2 dollars
a ton. Coal* may be bouglit here at tinscs from the mail companies, but it is
generally dear. The cost ol' coal imported into Panama by way of ('ape Horn
being 10 dollars {)er ton, and by the railroad 15 dollars. Consuls of all nations
reside at Panama.

In 1881, 178 vx'«sels, with a total tonnage of 213,845, entered this port, of
which 68, tonnage 1)0,407, were Ihitish ; this is exclusive of the regular British

• Some coal bcdBaro reported to exist on the banks of the llivtu' ludio, lyiug botwteu
A»pinwull uud I'auiiniu, Nvliicli may becouiu of inipurtnncc,

anc
nag
the

Cen
time
the
com
at th(
and,
for t
Panaii

,*!iX

and American steamers wK' ;, 13

lengtli IS 45 miles, 3 O-JO ft • v Colonel G. M Tntf . ^

'»"».» w., ? «, !;!^ ' "° ">"" "■« level. The , ' "■ "" *■<"" "'»

""".port of L„„r '°* "P •» "Web the »mau„ .! " ''°""''""'

■•»-. a. r:r rc:r r ' ^"""" '^^ •'-«::: '^' ■'•
"■-;.v n.-o. w„„e. .. p.,1 r """^ ^"^»- ^ '»■%•=. i^: l:^ :r

He JPaaam. cm.1 o „ ""■»'• m,le „„,,h.

an t'«t mated f^.t r z ^ furnicd to carrv- ti.- , • ■'^^'^^ of the

'"t from the p,„„„^ ' ,7'"' '■"Ol'™ for Ih. p.«,„ „f„ '""''»■«)'.

.? > »

''-»

eaMM

1^ I

THE COAST OF COLOMBIA.

the course of which the canal will follow for about 4 miles. Thence it follows
nearly the line of the railway, debouching into the Pacific at Pcrico, close to
Panama, where it is to be widened to form a harbour. The total length will
be about 45^ miles, with a depth of 27 ft. 10 ins., and a width varying from
73 ft. in hard rock, to 188 ft. in soft earth, with sidings at intervals for the
passage of vessels. About 100,000,000 cubic yards of earth and rock will have
to be removed; the summit ridge is 287 ft. above the mean sea-It, !.

Among the many great difficulties the engineers will have to contend with,
besides the climate, are the great bodies of water brought down in the rainy
season by the Chagres Eivcr and the Rio Grande, and other streams, the route
of the canal crossing and re-crossing these rivers. To obviate these floods it
is proposed to construct canals to carry the water oif, and also to form a large
reservoir in the upper valley of the Chagres. The range of tide is also about
20 ft. higher at Panama than at Colon, which will much interfere with the
project of a canal free from locks, a difficulty it is proposed to overcome by
establishing large lock chambers at the Panama end.

Petillo Point, IJ mile to the \.E. of Panama, is a black rocky promontory
with two small hills over it; rocky ledges extend from this point for IJ cable,
and off their extreme a depth of 10 ft. may be found. A great portion of the
bay, between this point and Panama, is dry at low water springs, yet at its
entrance there is a depth of 8 ft. It is termed El puerto, or port of Panama,
and it is here that most of the minor trade of the gulf is carried on by means
of bongos, large canoes made from trees of such dimensions that some of them
formed from a single trunk have measured 12 tons. Buey Point, only seen
after half-ebb, forms the southern horn of this bay ; the long rocky ledges
extend 3J cables from the N.E. bastion, 5 cables from the S.E. bastion in an
easterly and 2^^ cables in a southerly direction, forming a bay southward of
Buey Point, in which is easy landing after hnlf-flood, on a sandy beach in front
of the Monk's gate. The general landing, however, is roimd Buey Point, at the
market place on the northern side of the town. These lodges around the city,
composed of rock witli sand patches between, although now iiksome and often
dangerous to boats, afford every facility for erecting substantial piers and im-
proving the port.

The S.W. part of Panama Road is embarrassed by rocks and shoals.
Although these dangers are mostly above water, yet this part of the Bay of
Panama should bo avoided.

Perico and Flamenco, with the outlying rock of San Jos/^, are a group of
islands forming the South side of Panama Road. Ileiiao and Culebra, the
western and southern parts of Perico, are connected with it by an isthmus of
beach and rocks ; but at high water these present the appearance of three
islands. Pcrico is the head-quarters of the United States mail steamers, the
bay on its nortliern side forming a convenient anchorage, while en the isthmus,
which is sandy on that side, steamers of 2,500 tons liave been easily benched.
Vessels using this anchorage after passing the island of Flamenco should

Lar

gro

just

and

must

with

2i IM

the ti
brcczp
that
dangon
tlieir cc
ft. wate
lies noai
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shore of t
Tides. -
rise from
fiom 1 to
Directi(
within 3 o
and so hav
p-'int Anco
as the wine]
over 18 ft.
Rock on wi:
towers are o
■"^''P is fair!
t'''"i 18 ft. si
4 S-, and Sar
Larger vosse
"'I' peak of
''iiincnco, be
IV'iico. If it

"k' western sii
•lit' eastward d
V''.ssels (Ira,,
Sulphur Jiocks,
botwoen the R
'J'al'oguilla hea;
'Kv may ancho
^■'laiiicnco. witli

•^^^P close round the V ,. ^^""^^^A-

.»»"« Oe Book,, , ; „°"*- . ' "■■ '» "■"'■ o»». »..e„,i„,

■Tides It ,•«)„■ L ^ "'*"'d attemrif f . ^^^^en and 1 9 ^* •

i--t Aneon Hi,, ,,r;;7- ''^ the p,,,,,^ '^^f ^"^^ ^-^^bor and J,, ,

- tJ^^ -nd ha„,« to the w 7"' ""' '^""^'^ ^e tpt '^f, "^°''- ^^^m thL'
;;- ^« ft. shou,d p„ , ^rr""' "' "PP-oaehinrp; '"'^^ °" ^he port bo
I^-k on With the Ct „ '^^ ''^"-'^«^ «oek?b? """ "^"^^^''^ '^-winl'

^--sareopentot lC:V';"'"^^«-^^'by?;r '""^""^ ^"^ ^^
^^'"I> is fairJy in th. "*^^'^ of Ancon TT„ ^ ^ '^- ""^il the cath.,1 i
t'-an 18 ft I '■"'^'^ ■■'«d may annh. '"^ P^^^ed the n„ , ^*'"'

'« «• she may hare T. . , ^'^ accordine- fn i , ^""aWe the

i'S anri Q r '*'^c ioztoJa iiiuf k S 10 her draft ■ -f

"^^-^'•'^t-ard do not open 1 /'" '"' *^^»'»«nco to'l '' ^''■^''' tnek on

S"'l''n.r Jiocks, with thn ir ^ ^ ' '^"'"tl' of tho n

>"-- the Kveo :'"'"""- ''^^'^ «„ . • 1 f;"'^;'^'« «nd South of th«

;^-3-ehor AWth otthr: '^•"■^'^"" ^^'P^ l:? ^7^ ^^e pea' of

^-^r pe„i„,„j, ,,,^^; J ';^"-" ferieo and

• . ; •' '■ I'd

» {

THE COAST OF COLO:\[RIA.

by the S.E. bastion. During neap tides they may anchor more to the
N.W.

Panama Road, although shoal, may be considered secure ; the ground being
muddy holds well. A sailor, resident in Panama for five years, remarks, that
during that time there was no known case of a vessel being driven from her
anchor ; and with good ground tackle and proper precaution a vessel might
lie there all the year round with one anchor down. Attention to the tides
and soundings of the roadstead will enable a vessel to lie close in at times
for the discharge of cargo.

TABOOA ISLAND, with those of Urava and Taboguilla, form a pleasant
group of islands, about 4 miles long by 2 miles broad, lying 9 miles to the
southward of Panama. Taboga, the highest and largest, 935 ft. above the sea,
is well cultivated, with a considerable village on its N.E. side. To the north-
ward of the village is the Morro of Taboga, a small hill, connected with the
main island by a low, sandy isthmus, covered at high water. This place is
the head-quarters of the Pacific Mail Company, who have here a steam factory
and coal stores, also a gridiron, 300 ft. long (reported to be destroyed in
1877), on which H.M.S.JI/ay»c»V«nc, a vessel of 1,255 tons, was repaired in 1858.

Vessels visit Taboga from Panama to procure water and supplies, both of
which are more readily obtained than at the city. Water can be procured from
the company's tank at 2 dollars per ton. The anchorage formed by the Morro
is convenient, being about 3 cables from the shore in 10 fathoms, with the peak
of Urava on with the high cliff at Taboga, and the church from S.W. ^ S. to
West. Vessels coaling at this island should avoid giving liberty to their crews
on account of the fever.

Urava is a small, lofty island, separated from the S.E. point of Taboga by
a narrow and shoal channel ; off its southern extreme is the small islet of
Terapa. Taboguilla, 710 ft. high, also well cultivated, with some islets off its
S.W. extreme, forms the N.E. island of the group, with a wide and deep
channel between it and Urava, in the centre of which is a rock, said to dry 4
ft. at low water springs, with 8 and 14 fathoms close to.

The Coast from Bruja Point to Chame Point, a distance of 16 miles, forms
a shoal bay, with several outlying banks and rocky islets, and vessels bound
to Panama should keep near the islands of Taboga, and not ajiproadi this shore
within the depth of 5 fathoms. About one mile to the N.E. of Vique Cove,
which is 5 miles westward of Bruja Point, is a lofty treble-peaked hill, called
Cerro de Cabra, forming a conspicuous object to vessels bound to Panama, and
frequently mistaken for Taboga by those coming from the eastward.

Melones Island is a small rocky islet 2J^ miles to the N.W. of Taboga, with
a rock above water, lying about half a mile to the northward of it. Chame
Islu ■^, with Periqiie Rock, are of a similar nature, situated about the same
distance southward of Taboga. Vallndolid is a large rock, nearly 2 miles to the
S.W. of Chame Island, with 9 and 10 fathoms close to it.

Cliame' Bay, at the head of which is a small river of the same name, is nearly

GULF OF PANAMA— PARITA BAY.

filled up by large banks, of which the largest is the Cabra Bank, lying in the
middle, with Tabor Isle on it. On the southern side is Chamo Point, a sin-
i;ular, low, woody promontory jutting into the sea, .5^ miles long by half a
mile broad. Between this and Cabra Baak is a eonvenicnt harbour, 2 miles in
] igth by about three-quarters of a mile in breadth, with from 3 to 8 fathoms
water in it, and from 16 to 18 ft. close to the beach of Chame Point. To the
N.W. of the river is a high range called Sierro Caporo, and to the southward
are the Cerro Chamo, a group of wooded hills.

Otoqne and Bona, high and peaked, with Estiva Island and Jiedondo Rock,
lying 6 miles to the S.E. of Chame Point, form a group similar but somewhat
t^iualler than Taboga and Taboguilla, being cultivated, and having a con.sidcrable
village, called La Goleta, in the bay on the western side of Otoque. Anchorage,
in from 10 to 14 fathoms, may be found in any part of this group, and all
dangers are above water.

PARITA BAT, large and open to the eastward, is nearly 20 miles across,
lying 4.5 miles to the S.W. of Chame Point. The coast between is a continuous
beach, called I'laya Grande, in front of a low wooded bank. There is a depth
of 4 to 3 fathoms at 2 miles off this beach, except S.E. by S. ^ S. of Ccrro
Chamo, where there is only '^ fathoms nearly 7 miles from the land, and
tlicncc extending to Chamo Point. To avoid this, vessels from Parita Bay
should steer so as to pass about 2 miles southward of Bona, when they may
steer up the bay, inside but nearer the islands than the shore.

The mud flats are found again on the western side of Parita Bay ; but at
Liso Point, on the South side of the bay, the beach again commences, and
extends as far as Cape Mala, 38 miles to the S.E.

hjuana Island, a little higlKT than the adjacent coast, and thus forming a
conspicuous object, lies about 9 miles to the northward of Cape Mala, and 2
miles off shore. The island is steep-to, except at its South and F^ast points,
with lo fathoms in the channel between it and the main. A reef is said to
stretch to the N.E. of it.

CAPE MALA, which forms the western point of entrance to the Gulf of
ranama, is a low but cliffy point with outlying rocky ledges having deep
water close to them. The land from the N.W. slopes gradually down to the
sea at this point from a considerable distance, making the exact cape difficult
to distinguish, unless the breakers are seen. On opening the gulf round this
a strong southerly set is generally experienced, especially in the dry season.

The PROVINCE of VERAGUAS, the western of the United States of
Colombia, or New Granada, was but little known till the surveys of Capt.
Kellctt and Capt. Jas. Wood, in 1848-9, and Capt. de Rosencoat in 1854-7,
made us acquainted with its coasts. Of the interior we are still almost as
ij;uoiaiit as were the early historians of Columbus. The relative poverty of
the rerjinn has never attracted any attention, or raised any commercial pro-
North Paci/ic. u

V......

'■-fSaVV <^-

yi,'

THE COAST OF COLOMBIA.

i 4

y ■

ducts. The native population, chiefly Indian, does not exceed 50,000 in
number. Some of these arc occupied during part of the year in collecting
))carls and pcarl-oystor shells, and also tortoiHc-shclls, for which one or two
vessels annually visit the ditferent islands and harbours, of which that of David
is the chief, the town being the capital of the province.

In front of the coast is an archipelago, or rather range of islands, running
generally parallel with it, and leaving a channel, 10 or 12 miles broad, within
the four groups which they form. The coast itself abounds in excellent and
spacious harbours, and throughout landing is easy and safe. There are few
barred rivers or outlying shoals, but then there is little more than the vast
jirimcval forest to visit.

Los Frailes are two remarkable rocks or islets, the southern one of which
is 112 miles S.W. i S. from Cape Mala. They arc 2} miles apart, N.W. by
N. i N. and S.E. by S. ^ S., and are bold-to, with the exception of a reef
extending about a cable from the N.W. point of the southern rock. They
are a good mark for approaching Cape Mala. In leaving the Hay of Panama,
the cape should not be approached too closely, as the current shifts from its
easterly direction to the S.W. outside it.

The coast trends to W. S.W. from Cape Mala, and at 13 J miles distant is
the small island of Ilenado or Venado, lying off a projecting point named
Haiti. Not far from this there is a commodious creek, according to native
report, or river, accessible for vessels of any draught, having 10 or 12 fathoms
de])th, and affording a sujiply of fresh water. The coast beyond this trends to
S.W. for 16 miles to Puerocs Point, and then 27 miles W. by S., terminating
in Point Mariato, from which it bears to the northward. The only outlying
dangers are a shoal of 18 ft., lying 1^ mile off shore, at 2 miles E. by N. of
Point Puercos ; and another reef, of some extent, a mile off shore, and 4 miles
W.S.W. of Point Puercos. The rest of the coast is quite bold-to.

Mariato Point is bold and bold-to, its S.W. extremity being in lat. 7° 12' N.,
long. 80° 52' 30" W. At 5 miles N.W. by W. from it is a small wooded
island, Naranjas, which has deep water close outside it. Mariato Point is a
good landfall for vessels from the westward bound to Panama ; the southerly
current setting out of the gulf will be avoided by keeping under the land east-
ward of it.

The BAY of MONTIJO, 23 miles northward of Point Mariato, is an ex-
tensive gulf, in front of which is the long and narrow island of Cebaco, which
nearly encloses it to the southward, and the channel to the westward of it is
pari'y occui)ied by the island Gobernador. The bay is thus completely
sheltered, but unfortunately the depths inside ai"e so irregular, that it is useful
only to vessels of small draught. There is a deep channel to the East of
Cebaco, which shoals suddenly from 12 fathoms to 6, and then to 3 J fathoms,
at 4 miles North of the I'-ast point of Cebaco. Keep along the East side of
the bay, taking caie to avoid the roek Sun Juan, distant about \^ mile from

., , ^<'II}A ISLAND.

tl'e Jam], and also some others Ihwl . "

o' Cebaco. pa^.i.,. „.. ,i^,,^,,, ^ "^3 " i he e .s another eJ,an„,, \„ t,., ™ '

channel i« narrower, and ;^;;';-' ^ l-'-ahle, because ,:';'"'•

-tern entranee to the ty 'T" ''"""^''^ '' '"-h ^tn' T

fathoms 'I'l • y " ^«^8sc should n^t « """ger. i„ n,

('UlJlA or Onihn „ •'

- ^-- o.^ -r^arir ii ::;: -- --, ..n., . ,. ,^^,^ ^^
r "'"'^ ^""'"^ ---^ with . , «: : ;'-•""'--- ..e in^orin:

fine season there are abundant str: J I'T'^'^' '^'^ ^'^^ -^"-''cd. I.,,
;-nd .ts shores, but it possesses l.f '" "" ^ -'-neho 1
'"vounto resort in early times as V ,""' ^'"^'"'^y «« ^^^^^'d It 1
'nolestatiim ■,,,,] U r ^'^''^^^^ conii,,,, to iu h ™^ ^

ott the shore, is a dan-oron^ r f "'"'""'^y' a»d outside of this -m •,
^'- I N. 5i miles from iC^ 7> "' ''""'' •^■^"^'^ ^^'^^ ^-X h ^ ," "
distance S.W by W f v "'"'' ''"^ J'^'"'^' <^nd of IJiea. ' , ^"'""^

-.1 other r^ Ii^7f ,^-'^ the S,, JTc^'^^ ^'^

theNW . t, but thfy n,.e oi,„,.„ , '"'^- i hero are

"iei\.\V. extreniA <•<■ *i • > • ''oove water //

Ima. Bay, „„ ,t, • -N-

r-.. i. .he pri,»,„,„ „„,,„,' ° ,'»""'•""''« ".ilea N.w.f„,„i,,,,,,,

"uet between the reefs nvt,,.. i- '-"•irftHl Jigainst. 'I'h,,,.,, • .,

V .a.„„, w„..„ ,,,„,, ,„;^'i;« .^. .e,,. . K ,,,,^ „,

i"tis, Umbo ^yjjj, j^

jl'

■ Ml

X *

' * .

tt * iibtAf-

».>*•

''^^Hj

1. .

'''.

'.i- '

4t .

'II

!^ ;«

til i

80 THK COAST OF COLOMIilA.

point of very considerable iiiii)ortancc, ns iiironlinp; means of .shelter, and also
water, near to the principal field of action iigiiinst the iSpanish galleons. In
the account of Commodore Anson's voyage, the whole island is described to a
of u very moderate heijrht, exceptinp one part of it (near the N.K. end), and
its surface covered with a continual wood, which preserves its verdure all the
year round. Tigers, deer, venomous snakes, monkeys, and iguanas exist upon
tlie island, n statement repeated by Capt. Colnett (1794). In the surrounding
sea, alligators, sharks, sea-snakes, and the gigantic ray abound. Pearl oysters,
which attracted the pearl fishers from Panama, were also to be gathered from
the surrounding rocks, and the huts of these men and heaps of shells still
existed at Colnett's visit. On the N.E. part of the island, Anson describes a
cascade of very great natural beauty, a river of clear water, about 40 yards
wide, rolling down a rocky declivity of nearly 150 yards in length.

Capt. Colnett, who was here in February, 1794, anchored in Damas Bay
(I'ort de Dames) in 19 fiithoms, the North point of the bay in a line with the
North i)oint of Cebaco Isle, bearing N.N.E., the watering place N.W., aiul the
South point of Quibo S.E. by S. He says : — " Quibo is the most commodious
place for cruisers of any I had seen in these seas, as all parts of it furnish
plenty of wood and water. The rivulet from whence we coincted our stock
was about 12 ft. in breadth, and we might have got timber for anv purpose for
which it could have been wanted. There are trees of the cedar kind a
sufficient size to form masts of a ship of the first rate, and of the quality which
the Spaniards, in their dockyards, use for every purjjose of shii)building,
making masts, \c. A vessel niiiy lay so near the shore as to haul off its
water; but the time of anchoring must be considered, as the flats run off a
long way, and it is possible to be deceived in the distance. The high water,
by my calculation, is at h.alf-past three o'clock At fidl and change the flood
comes from the North, and returns the srnie way, flowing 7 hours, and
ebbing 5, and the j)er])endlc'ular rise of tiie tide 2 fathoms."

Hicaron, which lies olt' the S.W. side of Coiba, 4 miles di.stant, is of a trian-
gular form, 3} miles long, and well wooded. Its higliest point, 830 ft., is on
the Fast side, an emincnee that commands a prospect all over the adjacent
islands, and the coast beyond. Oft' its South point is Ilivarila, a small islet,
covered with cocoa-nut trees. The channel between Hicaron and Coiba is of
very irregular deptli, but is safe and practicable.

Runcheria, or Quibito, is a small island 1^ mile long, and 1 J mile off the
N.E. po,-.t of Coib,i. To the S.S.E. of it is a sandy beach, where there is
good anc .'ornge, sheltered by a round and high islet. Wood and water are
easily procured. A Frenchman formed a small settlement here on the South
side. The channel between Coiba and Quibito is rocky and uneven, but is
apparently safe.

Afuera, or Caiial Island^ 4 miles N.E. i E. of Rancheria, is about midway
between the North point of Coiba and the shore. It may bo passed on either

^ BAKU it:t;:^'°-^-^'-»"X^^^^^^^^ '™ '^^

l^aibour. It ;. <... ., '' '"'>' '« well natned m„i •

opposite the ;Uh :"/■•'"• ^^ ^^•- ^••■- 1 : t; "V"^"^"* ""'"-'
p-nce. «a.i:tr : ,?^^- «'-'^ that"; ;ir;^'^''- -a

sheltered, wood and JorT ," ''' P""" ^^ i« easy of ' '"'" '■""

--1 -ay be hove d^o: "'''"'' ""'^ ^^''^ P-u T 1"""' ^^^^^^
it was surveyed bvl Z "^ '''""'•'' '^o"^'- wUhou fi ' '° ""'"''' *^«' «

aI«o examined „,'"'" f!^^^-*^ ^^^''cher i„ hTtri " '"^"^^•
I^elcher says : J" i^ '^/^^*- '^'^ i^-eaeoa, inte ";;".'' ""'^ '' ^-

another of our .f„r ''' "^ ^'^'•^'J^. 1839 wo ^ '^"^"- ^''^ i''J>-ard

' our stations in I8'i7 ir ° moved on to li,.i.- i,

«ent to clear the land but,, ^' ^^'" '>> -'th a fe. O " """^'* '

<leahn,s with us. ' '"' ^'^^ '^^ '^J- very „,eh f^Jd "l" ''^'*""^'

"^V'e found this to be a. . "^'^'^'^ «^ having any

Pletely landlocked, „nd peXlv'T"'"'' '"'''' ""'^ -'"venient harh

7- ^-'. - r ::^ r:r --or . :;;::;::;:- r -«

-^ oipiJ.isUic plants in fMii « ^' ™« Port we enlln.. . ^

'■"-n.o ■i,„o,„„i, ,„„,.^^^:r'""-b ».«mjd j; "r; "r

8»oil Older." '" '" inslmicl, win.,. ,|,„. ."="»■>■■ mj. cabin

^-W«/.w, Which fo . ^'^^--'^-^^' days in

^^•^-N..lon,::,':ttri?^^""r"P-ofthecntranee.^ ,

^'- -tent of abo^ : ,^ ^^ f f -all, and son^ X :T' ' " ^"■
'^f^out 2 cable, to the N F ^r V ' ; "^ ^''"'"^"^^ ^^^o show. . '"""' '' ^°

-P--ed by a narrow rocK.": '" ? ^'°" '^"«^-- Sout, of ^/V^'^''^'''"^
^•<-h point of the eltra T^ '"" ''"^^^' •^«^«^'- ^1 1 ) "' ""
^^^■tween is tolerably ^^ :, "^'^' " '"'^^ ^-t^^ of Sent^Ld t 1 1'^ '''^

^'■-lually decreases wi^Ltbr"""''"" ^''^ '" ^3 fa ^ i a '" ''"^'''^
f"fance un tn r / ! ^ ^">' *" '^ -'nd I'J f..M ^^"« depth

-• be.::^ K.t^ f'-'f^ '■^^'^-t po.;; :^\ ^-.^ --le withm l

-''> ^ong; off its N W : ': "*""^'''- '^'^'^- is rath" ''' ''■ ^•^"'.
'^ -other, ^„, 1 •' • ^""' '-^ '^ --^Ji island. />„ J ''" '""^ ^'-n half a

% to th we tttd rr^"""" ^^^^- Honda into tT' "l ''' «°"''' P-nt
-tensive. T 'I,^ ^'^ ^t"'' '^'^^ ^<^ *^^ -tj , I^'^"^^^"-' ^^''-/^.

;-d of the entrance'is ^2 "'? '""^ ^^ ^^ ''^ Kast. 1 ^ ' " "'"^°
Woat gives the .l...,,---^^^^^^ ,,. ^^^

1
t

■• ^'^

Si- '

! 'ifen ,• r '

•j:i

TlIK (OASr OF COLOMMIA.

t 'I

In cotnini; to this hnrbnur, ult»?r hiiving mailo out Afiicin in mid-cliannel off
it, the islund Mrdidor will he neon. It is of moderate height, and must bo
steered for until the sn\nll islet, I'apora or Truehn, is made out, lyiu}; close to
the South point of Medidor. There is a jjiissaire on fither side of this islet,
hut it is hest to leave it to port, as the northern ciiiiniud is narrowed bv the
rocks otf Medidor. Then steer for Guarida Point, or rather more to south-
ward. The entrance to the bay is easy, although it does not make out well at
a distance. To the right, close in-shore, is Svntinela hlet, which should be
avoided on account of the rocks which surround it ; and to the left is Point
(iuarida, which is (juitc clear, and may be ranged close-to. When past this
point, bear up to port, and make for a round wooded islet, C/itnr/te, lying in
the N.N.W. part of the bay, aiul anchor in 11 to 14 fathoms, muddy bottom,
sheltered from every wind.

The bay m separated into two parts by an island named 'Jalon, to the West
of the an' norage. The only population of the bay consisted of a few Indian
families on this island, f'-om whom eggs, fowls, cocoa-nuts, and bananas, were
j)rocurcd at .^ ehoap r.;[e. They are also the most expert turtle catchers, and
will furnish a large quantity daily. Fish also is abundant. To the eastward
of the island the extensive mud-hanks, which uncover at low water, leave onlv
a narrow space for anchorage in 5^ fathoms, but this is unimportant, as there
is nothing to induce a vessel to como into this part of the bay. 'J'he only
dangers to point out are a rocky reef a little above the line joining Point Penot
and Pueril Islet, at IJ cable from the last; and another reef at the same dis-
tance North of Guarida Point, on which there is only 8 ft. water. The
Obliyado's anchoiage was with Point Guarida S. 40^' W., Sentinela Islet
S. U^ W., Kspuela Islet, S. 83^ E., Chlnche Tslet, West point N. lb" W.
Capt. dc Ko.seneoat made the position of this anchorage of the t)b]igado, op-
posite Pueril, to be in hit. 7" 44' 52' N., long. 81-^ a 1' 0" W. High water, on
full and change, at .•J" 30'" ; tides lise 1'2 feet.

Water is abundant, and there is a stream, the Arroyo del Cobrc, in the S.E.
part of the harbour, which can be ascended high enou^-h in a boat to get good
water ; but the most convenient jdace is to the K.^.V. of the above anchorage,
where there are two streams, which, with a hose, wdl fill the casks rapidly.
Wood is abundant everywhere, the forests are magiiificent.

Leaving liahia Honda is as easy as its access. Keep on the side around
Point Guarida, avoiding Sentinela Islet. The best ume is in the morning,
when the winds which jjrecode the sea breeze come from East to N.E. 'J'hese
ore sometimes so light that you must tew out by your boats. Having doubled
Point Guarida, steer for Trucha, leaving it to starboard, the same with
Medidor, and not attempting to pass through the narrow and rocky channel
which separates the latter from the land.

The COAST beyond IJahia Honda is a succession of bays of different extent,
among which the three principal are Monita, del liosario, and del Pajaro.

lie

Then
oj)j)osi
from A
no she
Bull
which
round i
or Cab,
Muerto,
that of
the souti
dcbouel
in the fi
and has
found, wh
Tiie nav
North of 2
"u nces, th(
•'^outh end
rently form
^orth (^nd ,
Neffrifo lu„

The i<ai. I

"'f this coa
l^njaros. Tiie
of Toiba. '\\
on the Xoitii
for turtle and
ground. 'i'Jie
fi'ar, tJie depth
's a moderately
tower, about 2
named from the
>t in a calm. V
"■•'cky patches.
PUEBtO NU
^n his book he si
the mouth of the
""'c Island, in A
following its bran

«»all village, situ;
first appointed tlu
about a miles i„ i^

1 .,

"I'M .-. «.,.,o»,vr„ r:"*:' f™"- ".« ^ ^ ,.„,•„, .. ,

'"»'«». "hio, „'::," :"'"""' "^-o,, i " : .'""• -'W .1,0 ,,/J
•"'' !■•"« 16 to l» «,,, '""'• "' '••'.i«n /,„„, i, ,, ,,;, ■•;'••' ™" ""Iv k. „»o,l

f-™-. >vh„ ,i.. ,;t::: -"';■■;■ '" -h Of . ;;: 7 "°;" 'V".-..... /» t

"ff" this coast T. ' '*'' "■'■"' """KTOUS ,.n ,

^'"- '-tic a.Kl pearl, ""7' "" '' '^"-'^ % r ^rtec f ^'""^ "-'-red
^-"»^- The'i.,.lT '■ ''^' '"""- — > gran ^ ''' '"' ^'■^''--n

^--^ the depth, h ; r; """"•■''"^■•^- '^'^-'v .;;;"" ^•^'•^- ^•^'^ '-'<!,•„,,

*--. about 2 .it S t JV'"'-"^^"" ^^^ ^V.,.., ,,',;>' "«;- .h„.,er
";-d fro. the wreck of' ^ T ^ '"""' ^"'"^ "^ t M ' ''"^ ''' '''^'
" '" ■'' «"'«. Vessels si n ''' ^'"> ^^ ^''-"'V'er wll, ^ ^ '"'• ^^ ^'■«'' ««
^"oJ^y patches. ''""''^ "«' P^«s between tL ""' ''"''''^'^ "» to

' '"■« book he says • » n '"7"^'"'^ ''^ ^ir K^ward TJ , k

^ -'"^ of the S nC r' ""'^ ^'"^ ^'-brNue : t v" ''^ *''^^'"^-
'■^ ^«'-d, in Mar f ;r ^ "^'^^'^ ^^-vo, at the i "' '""J"^^' ^«^«, at

„ s^' ''""ated on tho ir

first appointo,? fl, ^"''-''' So

J i'>'uiicu tliesenf-nf™ — 6"' "'/lere thr. c . — "'" **

l< \i-

' •*'•'

i. I

I'
1

I *! f

IWI

JUi

(1^

,1i

■I*.

1,1 I

THE COAST OP COLOMBIA.

Three larger streams discharge themselves into the main basin at the western
end of this is! > id, where the apparent great, entrance is sittiated, but so studded
■rfith rocks and shoals as to be unnavigable lor anything larger than boats. It
is, in fact, an extensive archlpehigo, as most of the regions towards the Chiriqui
territory will be found to be on future examination.

" A plan waa made, which will prove interesting to those who may visit this
port, for refuge or refit ; but water cannot be procured in any quantity. It
may probably be found by digging welis. The natives generally appeared
alarmed at our presence, nor could we induce them to bring o(F supplies. Had
our visit been i)rolonged, no doubt this would have been dispelled ; as, after
wo fell in with a negro who understood English, they appeared anxious to sell
pigs, poultry. &e.

" Tiieir principal article of trade is the sarsaparilla, that of this neighbour-
hood being esteemed of superior quality. T)ie stveam runs fresh at some miles
up, but we did not either meet it or succeed in finding the town. Sugar-cane
of good quality was offered ; and tortoise-shell, one of their articles of trade,
can be procured at the season."

Sir Edward Belcher's survey was published 10 years later, and the place was
again surveyed in 1854 by Capt. de Rosencoat, who in his chart or directions
takes no notice whatever of his English predecessor, as is indeed the case
throughout the French work. It would si^em to have been scarcely necessary for
the two nations to have surveyed this uncommercial region twice within so few
years. What follows is derived from Capt. de Rosencoat's pamphlet, adapting
it to Sir Edwiird Belcher's survey.

From whatever direction Pueblo Nucvo is approached, it is easily made out
by the two hills or Morros, the Cuyado Hills, 300 and 400 ft. high, on the
South side of the entrance, which, at a distance, make like two islands. A
conspicuous sugarloaf hill, about 5 miles North of the entrance, is also a good
m.ark, as it stands alone, and is 550 ft. high. On a nearer view, two low and
w^ooded islands come in sight, Silva de A/uera, the Magnetic Island of Sir
Edward Belcher, and Silva de Tierrn, or Silla Island, which lie E. bj' N, and
W. by S., nearly 3 miles apart, in a line with the entrance of the bay.

The entrance of the river is formed by a low mangrove island, Insolita, as
before stated, which Capt. de Rosencoat calls Porcada. It is about 4 miles
long N.W. and S.E., and has a former channel to the river to the N.W. of it,
but this is now only passable by boats. The southern entrance is close around
Cape Cayado, between that point and a spit projecting a mile to the W.S.W.
from Eelitre Point, the South extreme of Porcada, and which, as it uncovers
at low water, acts as a breakwater to the channel. Cape Cayado is so named
from its supposed resemblance to the form of a bisho))'s pastoral staff, or a
shepherd's crook, and has 8 to 10 fathoms close up to its base. The channel
here is not more tlian '2^ cables wide, but the channel is straight, running
nearly East and West, with to 10 fatlinms tluoughout.

II:

•H'

PUKBLO NUETO.

necessary to hav(
'f "^ "^ 'l"»«er of a ,nile d.e'vi^^Z^lZ T'T ""' *'" ''""'^ ^''''^ to e„t..
;'- or roc^ in the middle of .he „ . ZnT; ^"" ^'" ^^ ^ -''" -u ,
Jcrdono of ,le Eosoncoat IC > ! ' "" ^''^''"'^ of Uelcher nr .,

orcada. when you may anchor in 7 to ot. "^ "'"'' ^'" ^^'^^ -,,e of

' '.^ best to enter M-ith the first of the fl 1 "T' ''"' ■^"'"^'-^- ''"«on. P, ,,,,
I"-"^, -„, .,,., , „o, ,,, 1 ' ^ ^ - then the ed,e. of the ba:^ ^
fjuno chj,se to Intrusa; but tho I . ^"^'^' ^^''t^'r. Yo„ m-u-

il.eresKlont Indians say that li.o M-ost"r J « '^""'^' '^^ ^••''"t--o..s.

J"ne and October, send i„ a heavy J at ,^"^' "''''"' ^''^^ ^-')"-^ between
«'-' - n.ay be found in the riJiZ^l^.'^^^l'^^^^^^^^^ ' '^"^ "' ^'^ ease
a« b.,h up as Pa,o or r...> A/.w' f" ^^'''''^ ^'"''"t, and, if „c..,,sa ,

r.,..cal fr„ie, „,„,. ,„ „,,,„.„^„ - ;;»^' ^ ^omc ..,.,,, f„,,,, ^

"7"' »•'"•■'■ *■"■«■» « ".. na„„. A, „"':'" '*■' '" "" '-sen i. „„ (,,

«.'p'"f .o .,.,. „w,, „,,,,; ,;;V ;;,;;■;' ,^« "»""»...-. „,,„:,„;

' "(-W town, has about 2 0nn ,•n^ 1-- b""iance. Ihi}i",)n„ii

:'" --■'« •<•• ...0 .....re, L ~ ,. ;;; - "■:"<"-> '"-. «., „, ,„ i,™

Ao.M /V..>V. '"•'- "■'-•' -^tend. f.,n. ,,« North Jde.'

f i

) ?

'^ •.' >* ' fell

1 rui

f I;:

! i

2 ! ■;

m
5

J "'

I ,

E II

■ j

I''

■ t

THE COAST OF COLOMBIA.

From the northern entrance before described, on the N.W. side of which is
the low island Espartal, the coast trends to W. by N. for 21 miles, for the first
18 of which it is composed of narrow sandy beach, behind which is a line of
forest, intersected here and there by the mouth of a river, which are rccoy;nisa-
ble afar off by the whitened and bare trunks of the mangroves. About a dozen
miles inland is a range of hills, the last steps of the Pacific Cordillera, between
which and the sea is a wooded plain. Beyond the above limits the hills
approach the sea coast, which is otherwise quite safe to approach by the lead
at a distance of 2 or 3 miks; there are some conspicuous red cliflTs hereabout.
The coast then turns abruptly from the San Lorenzo River to S.S.W. for 4
miles, forming a peninsula, off the S.K. point of which are the Benado Isles,
which consist of cue larger island near the point, and three smaller on one
bank farther to the eastward. Point OJo of De Rosencoat (the El Juvo Point
of Capt. Wood), 3 miles West of the eastern Benado Islands, is the south-
western extremity of a peninsula which forms the eastern limit of Chiriqui
Bay.

SECAS ISLANDS lie nearly on the meridian of 82° W. at 14 miles oflTthe
coast. The group consists of three principal islands, with numerous rocks and
islets, one of which is 5 miles northward of their southern edge. With one
exception the islands are quite safe, and they will afford shelter to a small
ves.sel, and several of them are accessible, but there is no fresh water, as their
name indicates. A vessel becalmed or at nightfall might seek shelter safely
here when approaching David Bay in 12 fathoms, sandy bottom. At 2 J miles
N.I'], by K. of the South end of the largest island is aroc/c awaskixt high water,
but which is (juite uncovered at low water, called La Bruju. There is. a wide-
spread tradition that at the period of the Spanish conquest, some Indian refugees
buried some treasures on the northernmost part of the largest island, and this
is in some measure borne out by the discovery of several ancient implements
and other objects.

The Chiriqui coast, as this part is called by Capt. de Rosencoat, is fronted
by a large group of islands, and with the numerous streams to the North of
them, forming an intricate archipelago, to the North of which, by a tortuous
channel, the ap])roaches to the town or city of David are found. The various
islands and channels are so united by almost a continuous shoal, nearly 20 miles
in extent from East to West, that, as above said, the only safe access is from
the eastern end of the labyrinth.* — Captain Wood.

* The charts ami directions for this part afTord an ciamplo of what should be avoideil.
The island WI18 well and carefully survoyid by CommaudLT Wood in 181S, but this lino
chart, with all its detiiils, was not published till thirteen years later. In the mean time thn
French officers in the Ohliyado, comniandeil by Capt. liouxo de Rosencoat, also surveyed it,
in 1851. The French survey h.is not the ^ligtlll■bt iilliision to its predecessor, and these two
charts differ entirely in their nomenclature, &c., so that t'apt. de Uusencoat's directions uro

Si ni
know
two s
a lice

Fiu
a larj
steep-
seen at
four j)i
A su
joining
which
cessfull^
In coi
Monitas
board lia
ward, tal
for the >S
TJiese arc
ag.iinst tl;
Tliis rock
half tide, j
(loos the li
fatiioms is
San Josp, J
good anchc
when the S
Islands.

At the 1

AV.N.W. ,

to West, Jl

MiDia, Cart

North of thi

to the westv

to David. 'J

is ))robablo t

El Jueo Poii

another calle

alnioBt unintelli
"tiiKiiidu in th
iluections, givin

s \

""^« ^oc/l (the Widow) lies -u 1
a large flat rock, with a reJf ! , ' ^° *^^ southward of El T
«-p-to on all sides hair /"'"^' '^^'^ « '"''e to thc-E s P 7' '"' '^
-n at a distance b;;:!/;:" ' ''^ '' ^^^hcns all ..^,f i^ \^ '« 'i"'^^'
four pinnacles are u„co^'7''° "' '""'« ^'--^^ "po u"; "^' '^

. ----issra:::-:j:^-visihi^tL;h:atj^' "^ --

jo.n.ng the West end ofVinda lill . '^'^'^ *" ^he West of th r
which would place it abo.^f • Lf, ^"'^^ ^'^ «-as. abeut .idlf^e . r

ward f.t ^ '^ ^° ^^^'n i^ cleared r> • *"" °" ^he «tar-

At the head of the bav .« „ i-

■*'o»t unintelligible when usoi with Canf W T "

- 1*

THE COAST OF COLOMBIA.

'1.

■li

i
I

1 1

r '

which are numoious herds of cattle, which can be purchased direct from the
owners.

The I]oca Chica, or entrance to the river, hes between Vcntana and Saino.
It may he known by some rocks on the extremity of the former, bein^ pierced
through by tlie sea at its base, so as to have thj appearance of a window or
vcntana. The j)!issage is very narrow, and in taking it keep close to Sai'no, and
• guard against Lavandera Rock, which is quite covered at high water, lying 1^
cable oti' VeiUana. The water is very shallow within the point, and is quito
unadapted for sea-going vessels, and cannot be taken without a pilot. Within,
the anchorage is called El Pozo (the well), and from this can be seen the outer
houses of the village of Boca Chica (or the Puerto de San Lorenzo of Captains
Kellett and Wood). It consists of about a score of ranchos or huts, surrounded
by orange trees and bananas. Fresh provisions, as butcher's meat, poultry,
fruits, &c. , can be bought here cheaply.

The watering-place is on the North shore of El Pozo, but it is not conve-
nient, though the water is good. Capt. de Eosencoat made the sjimly bay on
the South side of Saino in lat. 8° II' 52" N., long. 82^ 12' 8" W. The tides
were regular, the greatest rise was 11 ft., the least 6 ft. ; high water at 3'' 15".
David is the chief town of the province of Chiriqui, and lies about 25 miles
from the sea by the eastern chaimel, or 10 miles by the western one, and to go
thither in a boat a pilot is indispensable on account of the intiicacy of the
channels. It stands in a fine plain, and is surrounded by cultivated lands,
which extend as far as the extinct volcano of Chiriqui. The popxilation is about
y.flOO, and it has a regular trade with Panama, sending thither by some suuill
vessels pigs, poultry, eggs, vegetables, &i.e. The cattle are generally diiven to
the market.

The situation of David has some importance from the fact that it stands on
the narrowest portion of the American isthmus, and on ascending the Chiriqui
volcano both oceans can be seen at once. An ordinary cart road has been pro-
posed as the modest substitute for a railway, w^hich should lead from Almirantc
Bay on the Atlantic, a good liarbour, to that just described. Another feulur(!
of importance is the existence of a coal-fidd, which extends nearly across. A
])ortion taken from Muertos Island, near the entrance of the river, was analyzed
by Professor Eogers, and gave good results.

Palenque Island lies otl the South side of Isla Brava, on the West side of
David Bay. The shoal water which limits the bay trends to the E N.E. and
W.S.W. from tliis island. Off its S.E. point is Deer Island, the S.W. point
of which was made by Capt. Wood to lie in lat. 8"^ 10' 13" N., long. 82° 13' 40' W.,
but later authorities place it in long. 82^ 14' 50".

PARIDAS ISLANDS are a group at the western extremity of those do-
scribed as lying ])arallel to the coast and the chain of mountains which runs
through the isthmus. They consist of one large island, I'arida, about 1 1 miles
in circumference, at the ^^'cst end; another, much smaller, Bolatio ov Vvhtuo,

; lie,'

the

mIic

a ffoi

\.E.

smai;

wher

reach

.'•leer

t/ian

TJie

P.irida

the lar

Baraeo

way bei

ill Capt,

Chtm

iiig to tl

Cruz. 'J

channel i

is xery n;

From ;

which is ;:

^ 1 miles, ;

heavily an

the hla S,

lii-.ua. C)i

Although t

the French

was the on!

The Coas

miles wide.

(■ Hilled like I

«(.'stenimost

tiaues a regu

wsrd. getting

<J" the 110!

'ome, bin thei

points out tw(

'•'iitraiioe of a

C/iurco Aznl, ;

places, uiid the

PARIDAS ISLANDS.

"ear the eastern narf nf »J, i 29

"•'■"' .V°"- P"l>'' — •» U,c™. " '""« ""•■ »»»" -•' ■!.. pearl fi.l^l"

JJie islands which run tn, J

t'le largest, the others are uL.. . '■'"'° ^'^ ^hc S.E. of it • f j,

: ^'"-o are some roeks,"^ ! 1 "^ ^' three-quarters of a „ i^; TT

; -y between Bolano a;dtn "r f ' '""^''"- '' '^ ""'^ E N E ^ >" ^ ""
^" ^ V. Wood's ehart '"^ '''' '^^^"^ ^ ^ ^'-er called z't ^I'^'j'

. «--^«yisattheS.A7endofP •,

;;-o to the N.W. from it. southe:^,!^:;!'' ""'^ '^ » ^- of islands streteh
- IV watenng-p,,,, i„ Chi^ ii "'"'""^* °' ^-'"^^^ « oalleH "
e!<.mnel around the Xorth end , f , ^ '' '" "« ^"^-K- part Th

'- ;«'. -»„., .,„„,„ ::;' ""•"*.. ^« 0..H. .„., :, :^,^^- .. «

"" '-• "-them shore of the bay ' l!'™'""''**^'^ '" I'oint liurioa

'^"^'^■. but there is sii.l * i ^ ^'"^' ^^'^^rs Piedri P;

":.... V,^ .,'"'■ f""' '» ">■'» Nor.., „,„■,;."?■/'""■«"■"»»..,. ,1.0

. t

t.'.

<* ,

( , "'

raasffiMtfiiM

■ I
Hi I

u 1 • . '

^ f

':\

■

if.

THE COAST OF COLOMBIA.

The Ladronos (or Zcdzoncs of Colnett) nre two islets or rocks, motlcrntcly
high and harren, lying 14 miles S. by W. from the S.W. point of I'midii.
They arc very steei)-to, and 70 fathoms was found close to their southern edge.
They are quite safe in all directions, c-icept to the North, where some rocks
lie a mile off.

At 1 miles North of the Ladrones (8J miles according to the chart) is a
rei)orted dangerous reef, which does not even show at low water, when there
is OJ ft. water over it. It is said to lie with the West side of Parida bearing
N. 9'^ E., and the East side of the Ladrones bearing South.

Montuosa is a small lofty wooded island, completed isolated, 26 miles
S.E. by S., southerly, of the Ladrones, and 22 miles West of Coiba. It is
safe, except some rocks to the East of it, and is a good mark for approaching
the coast. A reef extends about 3 miles north-westward of it.

Colnett says : — " It rises to a considerable height, and is 5 or 6 miles (?) in
circumference, its summit covered with trees ; the greater part are those which
bear the cocoa-nut, which gives it a very pleasant appearance ; but islets and
breakers extend off its East and West ends, to the distance of 3 or 4 miles.
The bottom is rocky on the South side, as is the shore near the sea. There is
a beach of sand behind some little creeks that run in between the rocks, which
makes a safe landing for bouts. Here we went on shore, and got a quantity of
cocoa-nuts, with a few birds. The S])aniards or Indians had lately been
there to fish on the reef for pearls, and had left great heaps of oyster-shells.
There were a great plenty of parrots, doves, and iguanas ; and it is probable
that other refreshments might be obtained, of which we are ignorant. At all
events, it may be useful to whalers or cruisers, by offering a place where the
sick may be landed and cocoa-nuts procured, whose milk will supply the want
of water."

POINT BURICA, or Burrica, makes afar off like an island with three
summits equally elevated and distant from each other ; on ncaring the cape
another low point is made out which seems at first like an island, but is after-
wards seen to form part of the point. To the southward of the point breakers
extend for a mile, and terminate in this direction by a large, high and isolated
rock, which forms an outer beacon. The cape may be seen in clear weather
35 miles off, and is thus an excellent landfall for ships coming either from
eastward or M-estward.

The territory of Jhirica, aecor(iing to Mr. J. II. Smith (1854), does not
belong to the general government of the United StJites of Colombia, but is
exempt from some of the imposts. It extends from the Guanuvano const, on
the East side of the Burica peninsula, to the Ilio Claro, which falls into the
Golfo Dulce. The coast between is an extensive region of cocoa-nut trees,
21 to 25 miles in length. But this thinly populated and uncivilized region has
but little claim to exact political or social divisions, and its nomenclature and
inland fealuics arc alike vaguely known. The exclusive claim of these stales

to t
its
T
cove
Indii
near
is a p
veyed
beyoni
the ¥r
ing dir
J lulas

. . COSTA T?rr'i

*« the trnnM-t route novos. th ■ u

^^e Coast W ,^ t-- 'i^^ene. '"^'^ -^-^^ ,.,„, ^„^, ^^

J"d.an vill„,,es on the .,,,1 , ,1 '' "'"'-' "" P'«cc.« of i«; ' ""^ '^ '"^. "",1
-'• ^"e e„t.nee of th G , J ^j"''^- '— that t^V"'^ -'^- ^•"".•

•■•' » P'ojection called P.^.tT P '' '^' ' °'- « '»■' s "11."' ^''''''""".

^p-"^d Point riatana, „s I' r "'""'""'^ ■^"'vov of tl "' ""* ''^^« -"-
.^'-' f-neh corvette Z ":. "'^^ '^.^'P^' -„« made ' ; c , r;'"" '-^-'s
"'^' '''-ctf„„.s are chie«v7 ''^' '" '''''' ""d fro,„ if ^ '^'' ''"'^^"'". '"

^""- ^« ^- the ch:?;;'^- J'; -t het.ee;: P rr"^" ^'- ^"'W-

TK . ^- ^<^STA RICA

fhe state of Costa R; •

"■""'»■ of .1,0 infc.r °"';" f '«'"«• whiol, i„ol„.,,' » ,''"""" f„„„,„,

'1.0 „,i„f ,■„,,,,(,■ «"""""» 'mpo,t.„e„

'»«■■ P«<».oe^ eo,„ "off "■"'•^ "'« 'o„., If .t""- """ «■"■ ■iiroo,i„„r

,;""" """■-'-' portion of C t .- " "^"•^'^'^' ^'v-

"''•' P''P'.Ia.i„„ ., ,^, ". M,v a„ ave: ,,, ,,,

THE COAST OF COSTA RICA, KTC.

200,000. In 1882 the vnlue of the exports from this state amounted to about
iT/iO.OOO, coffee being the chief article.

The GULF of DULCE lies 30 miles to the N.W. of Burica Point. But
very little was known of it till in 1849 a concession was made to a French
company, and in 1850 a plan of it was made by M. Louis Cheron, and again in
1852, when its shores and capabilities were examined by the officers under
Capt. de Lapclin. From this it would appear to be one of the best points of
the old Spanish territory for European colonization, considering its fertility,
healthiness, and safety of its navigation. The gulf is recognisable at a great
distance. Its outer points are well marked, and according to the chart arc 15
miles apart. East and West, but the distance is reported by several observers
to be not more than 10 miles.

Cape Matapalo, on the West, is the South extremity of the peninsula and
of the Cerro de Sal si Puedes. It is high, steep, and covered with trees, with
some reddish coloured land-slips. About a mile E.S.E. of it is an isolated rock
10 or 12 ft. high, easily seen in all directions.

Platanal Point, the eastern point, is the South end of a promontory formed
by the chain of mountains which separates the low lands of Burica from the
plain of the Rio Goto. This promontory is terminated to the North by a
round-toj)pcd peak, covered with trees, rather higher (2,329 ft.) than thoso
near it. This hill will indicate the Pnnta del Banco. All the shores of the
entrance are clear and free from danger ; but in coming hither it is well to
make Cape Matapalo, as the only inhabitants are on the West side, at the
Punta Arenitas, and on this side are also convenient anchorages in case of
being becalmed during the ebb, as throughout the gidf, except in the Rio Goto
Bay, the depths are 20 and 30 fathoms at 2 to 4 cables from the shore, and
then deepening to 50 and 100 fathoms.

The outer portion of the gulf runs in a North and South direction 22 miles,
with a breadth of 16 miles ; beyond this it runs to N.W. for 25 miles to the
foot of the Cordillera, where it is 10 milc.i wide. From Point Matapalo to the
Rio Eincon at its N.W. end, an extensive plain extends to the slojiing foot of
the Cerro de Sal si Puedes. The shore is all low and wooded. At 5 miles
N.N.E. of Matapalo Point is Punta del Sombrero, and 3 miles further that of
Tigrito. Off these two points are some rocks above water, those off Sombroio
extending half a mile, and off Tigrito three-fourths of a mile. These are tlio
only dangers in approaching Punta Arenitas.

PUNTA ARENITAS,* 9 miles beyond Punta del Tigrito, appears to be low

* Punta Arenitas is culled Punta Arenas (Sumly Point) on some charts, but tho distinc-
tion is here made that it may not be confused with the more impoitunl Punta Aron;is, iho
chief port of the republic, in the Gulf of Nicoya.

Some later information concerning Punta Arenitas, and other parts of tho const, is taken
from the French " Instructions Kautiques sur Ics Cotes Ouesl liu CVutre-Ameriiiuo, ct liu
Moxique," by M. A. I'liilhc,", 1871).

mil
exc
the
fori

ited to about

I'UNTA AREN7TAS.

and entirely covered with wood Th. •>, '''^

tremnyofthe point J.„,s,, eon destroved."^''''''-'"^'-'^^ on tl,o ..

'■'I'out 400 in number remnv , 7 ^ ^ "" '''"'"'^l^'-'ke, and the fn.
''■- "e>v vill,,,e err " '''°' ^ '•"•'' ^^-th c f t , """"^'

l)ank.whieh„.;tial "^''- ^* '^ ^'^'^'o Kast of """t' "--"ning

• P'Xt'allydne.sat low water- h. "^ P"'"t « a coril

^cables, and it i. twice that len-^N; '"?"^^^'^-'''' ^'''^ and AvCt ^

-ecu. beat occasioned b, the': ' V" '" ^"■'^--- -^ -oi o

^~ ":^;:?-- - - - -t .:;:r t -oraJ:

S * F „f I ? P'""' *" bear W bv V i v "'^*'"' "^'"age

, , , """ *"«' nnchora-o North nf ♦; 'athoms, bottom -rreen

-k. bear to the West, steerin, fl ' ", ;'%P'»"*' ^'-ing p.,,ed ,,,;';;;

some large trooa ,„;*i , . * " estcro for crpot^ ^- .• "

from .h. ,Cc :j'* '»"'»""• ""Uom of ;,,°XZ " T' ""'' ''"I>

theNiirtl, ,:f,l,. ^° °°"™>mic.TO will, ,],„ .„ '° "'" '"■'I it is

'!.". you « h' f "'"'* "' "«• «'-.« of , 1' h '"•■''"' """ '•"'' •»

'J'lie North r *<=. throughout

"'"'^ "ton* f:::rK,:t^""^"'°™-^ v.h.„o.cof.He oo,a„

'^^i

'.rl''

• i

'mA

r i

iii

■I. I

!■!'

1 1

II-

THE COAST OF COSTA RICA.

The Oolflto ontrnnpo is nhout .1 rabies wide, nnd the pnflsagc in mid-rlinnncl
l)etween the higli and wiU-maiked point to the North, nnd the long nnrrow sandy
tonpie to the S.W., hns a depth »f !')i to fij fnihoms. This sandy neck divides
the (Jolfito into two parts, in either of which you may anchor, but if in the
eastern part it is not advisable to brin^ the houses on the point to North of
AV.N.W. 'J"he Cioltito is a landlocked basin, where you may hcnve down and
careen, but unfortunately in all seasons it rains nearly every day, nnd storms
Hre frtMiuent. The watering-place is in the North part of this small gulf, but
the casks must be filled at low water, and floated otF at high water.

The Rio Goto, the largest stream which enters the Gulf of Dulce, is 7J
miles U.K. of the Golfito, but is not navigable. From its mouth a bank
exteiuls to the northward, which joins the tongue dividing the fJolfito. The
coast is low, sandy, with n violent surf, nnd covered with cocoa-nut trees.
To the southward of the river, the coast, though low, is clean as far as
I'unta del Hanco, the S.K. point of the Gulf of Dulce, Pavon Bay lying
between them.

The Gulf of Dulce, during the fine season, is under the influence of the land
and sea breezes (the terral and virazon), the latter blowing from S.E. to S.W.
between 1 1 a.m. and sunset, when it is replaced by the terral blowing from
North to West. Notwithstanding its hot and luunid cliniato, the gulf is con-
8idere«l healthy by the natives, but this can afford but little evidence of its
effects ujjon Kuropoan colonists.

The Coast beyond Cape Matapalo extends for 18 miles W. by N. J N. to
the high and abruj)t Pun/a Sal si Piiedcs. It is a narrow and sandy beach,
forming a large cocoa-nut grove, behind which rises the Cerro. It is very
steep-to, for at less than half a mile off shore, in the shoalest part, there is
more than 40 fathoms, a strong surf usually beating on this shore.*

At the point Sal si I'uedes the Cerro a])pr()aches the beach, and at less than
a mile off the point is r roimd bare rock, called C/ioncha Pelona, around which
the water is very deep, but you cannot pass inside it.

From Punta Sal si Puedes to Punta Llorona the distance is 13 miles in a
N.W. direction. Nearly midway between these points is the Corcoiai/o, a
large rock SS ft. high, at the outer end of a reef composed of rocks above
water. The irregularity of the depth and the colour of the water, and the
breakers off shore between the two points, seem to indicate danger near tlie
land.

Punta Llorona is high, steep, wooded, nnd formed of cliffs partially coverrd
with a rich vegetation, and n cascade falls over one of its i)erpendieul;ir
precipices. Several islets lie within a few cables' lengths of the point. San

• Thfi name Sal si Puef/cs (get out if yoii ciiii), iipplii d lo tliis bonch, is saij to be dorive(i
from the fact that the bongos which come here to lo.ul with cocoa-mil.s, thcjugh able to hinJ
easily iil. times, hiivo great Uittieulty auj dettnUun in tiubaiking tluoujjh the lorruidublo
Hurl'.

th
a cl
grol

K"H
indi'
wliol
IVdr

be
Ci

lengtj

and

iho coast iifif ;» • ^ "■ j r.. iroin l'iiii>„ r i

K->'-a l.y a rock I"" ' ""''•^' '^-^'' ^""-1 ti.e ]' ,- T '" '" ''''-
'"«'-t..tio' e„, u "r"^'"^ ''.V " --".Ic tree. 0„' L,"' *=*;" ^'-^-. '''■^ti...

I^t' known bv a .. , "'""" °''^'ill« which ov . ^ *""■•'■"''' «"u

J-^'th. moderatcl/hH;"" " ''''^ '^'^^ "^ San l>2o" ■ . •

''•" N-w. si. ; ; t"'^ "' """'"'^ •^"^'« towa^ :i? ""' "^^---'^e to do

landin.. is oa v 7 '' "'"' '^"'"^' »^«»"na trees ^"^^-"""'^-d rock.. Q,.

--».:::rr,: :: "- ^"- --«:::::'::::;: ""- "■=

The fiio Ajiiia ,l..i , '"'""toJiouc, which

'""- ^vhere wal::;; ^^f ^l' ^^-'^ ""<! that" ^ i;: ^^^^ f- tl,
"■-'^■d,- its narrow he.r • ' ''" ""'■''"^"'•d "f this th ' ** "'^' '""^

« ""'e North of this ai-cMh ■ '^ '' ""'^" --'^'•i i.^iot f h "'' "' ^'"'-^
of Dulce. ' ^^"'^ "Tarates the ocean f, ' , ' " ""' "'"•^'^^^■^"•^t

^'-n hence the const ' "' ^'" ^"'^

'•""1 Mooded iJ T '""' *° ^^''^ N'orth for 20 „n

'-- ^^^^^'^^ Z::vT''' ""'-"n'i:!;:;::;^ "*-. w

';- '"- or n.outh^ :' h^-;^''' '''^ '^—a. Th.:; ^ ^ ^ ': "^' '^ *
""" '''-'^ --".unieate vit e ?"' ?"' ^'"' '^'^^ ""<^ it i d k""' ""^

""■""■•""'"-»<; ,1,0 o,«

.'.i'

ii-

«.

1 .-i- -

f.l!

lit '

^ .1

ii^^p..

TllK COAST OK COSTA HICA.

! ■■

II !(

bftween is ii snndy beitch, travoiBed by some inaccessible rivers, mid is qxiitc
clenr. At 3 J niilcH W. by N. i N. from tbis point is Unit of Lan Qui/wi,
covered with trees. Hetween these points lire a number of islets und rocks,
forming; two distinct groups, wliieli lire connected with the shore. The
soutlienaniist group is called the Xardiijos, the northern the (iitcpiis. The
larj^est of the latter grou[) is called Manuel Antonio, and shows a remarkable
g.'ip. It shelters a small sundy bay, tit for the bongos which come fishing for
turtle.

Point Mala, or Judas, is 22 miles W. i N. of the Quepos, the const
between being n snndy beach, beaten by a continual surf, without landing-
place. Near I'unta Mala there is a line of cocoa-nut trees a mile in lengtli.
The point is very low, and covered with trees and nmngroves. To the South
of it a reef of rocks and islets extends for li mile. 'J'he depth '. very irregular
on its edges, and the current drifts jxist it to the westward, frequen'ly at 2
miles, and never less than 1 mile an hour.

I'oiut (juiipilon is 6^ miles N.W. by W. from I'unta Mala ; the coast be-
tween is yand) and low, but is lined with breakers to 3 or 4 cables' lengths off
abreast the small rivers L'suhre and Tusuhre. Off Point Uuapilon arc two
rocks awasli, on which the sea breaks ; they are half a mile oU' the point, and
have a depth of 9 and 10 fathoms between them and the jioint. At 4 miles
N.\\'. by W. is Caiw Isle, which shelters the harbour named I'ort lierradura.

Port Herradnra, at the S.E. entrance to the Gulf of Nicoya, is a horse-shoe
bay, as its name indicates, facing the West, and is l.i mile wide between the
West point of C'auo Island on its South side, and lierradura I'oint to the
North. 'J'he harbour of nerradura is a good anchorage, is uninhabited, and
without any communication with the interior ; it has uo othe. resources than
an excellent and abundant watering-j)lace.

Cano Island is covered with trees, and has a reef (dl aroimd it, which con-
nects it with the shore. The northern j)oint of the bay is also bold and rocky,
and a reef skirts it on all sides for nearly 3 cables, but the edge of this reef is
steep-to, as is the case all rouiul the bay, and therefore the shores should be
carefully apjjroached. The South point consists of a high rounded hill, with
high land behind it.

llavannuh liuck, nearly awai-h, lies nearly in the middle of the bay, with a
house on the beaeh bearing N.H g N. three-quarters of a mile, and the pin-
nacle of Cafio S.W. by S. 9 cables. At the head of the bay is a watering-
])laoe, where excellent water may be obtained. Sir Mdward Belcher says that
twenty casks at a time may be obtained by rolling them into a small lake on
the heuch. This lake was made to be in lat. 9" 38' 30' N., long. 84° 36' 7" W.,
but hiter determinations place it in long. 84'' 39' 30". The anchorage is off
this watering-place in 5 to 8 fathoms, but vessi-ls may ride close to the shore
by veering the whole cable with a warp to the buaeli, and find good shelter,
e.\eepl froiu westerly winds.

I I

i.L

TlIK OILF OF MCOYA-CAPE RLANCO.

'f \

The GULF of NICOYA wm survej oil by ^ir Kilwiinl lU'lclier inthc Hlossotn
ill Januiuy, Ib'M. It was also examined by Cnpt. de Lapelin in La Drillante,
and wc di'i'ivf niiicb of what follows from that oHicit's remarks.

CAPE BLANCO is tiic south wt'sturnniost point of this extenr.ive gulf, and
is tlius dcbcrilied by Dampicr : — "Cape IJlanco is so called from two «hite
rocks lying off it. When we are oft' at sea right against the cape, they a])pear
IIS part of the cape ; but being near the shore, either to the eastward or west-
ward of the cape, they appiur like two ship.s under sail at first view, but coming
nearer they arc like two high towers, they being small, high, steep on all
sides ; and they are about half a mile from the cape. This cape is about the
height of lieaehy Head in Kngland, on the coast of Sussex. It is a full j)oint,
with steep rocks to the sea. The top of it is flat and even for about a mile ;
tlien it gr.ulually fulls away on each side with a g"ntle descent. It ajipears very
pleasant, being covered with great lofty trees." *

'i'he entrance to t'lie (lulf of Nieoya is distinctly marked by Ca])e Blanco on
tlie West, and I'oint Ilerradura on the East, forming an opening 21\ miles
wide. Caj)e Hiai.co is the point that has been generally made by keeping a
little to the East of its meridian ; bui there is probably some advantage gained
liv making tlie eastern side as the currents shift to westward, and the distance
would be rather shorter.

( 'ape 15hinco may be seen at 25 miles dii'tancc when bearing N.N. W., a))pcar-
iiig then like an island, the top of which is flat, and having near its centre a
slight indentation. Several white patches also serve to distinguish the cape
from the land at the back of it. The largest and lowest white spot is formed
by an islet quite white, lying South of the cape, from which it is sejjarated by
a channel a mile wide ; but it does not api)ear to be detached until you are
within 10 or 15 miles. It is only when Cape 131anco is seen from the West,
or to the North of West, that its true termination can be seen ; being much
lower than the surrounding land, it projects like an island, and falls abruptly
towards the sea. At the same time a small needle-shaped rock will be seen a
little to the South of the islet.

As far as the anchorage of Punta .\renas, the Gulf of Nieoya has few dan-
gers that are not visible. All the points and the shores may be approached to
within 2 miles. The islands are numerous, and some of them large ; they are
covered with trees, but are uninhabited, and at jn'escnt possess no interest
whatever. The western part of the gidf is nearly a desert, and the ports,
which as yet have not been frequented, lie on the East side ; these are those
of Ilerradura (previously described), Caldcra, and Punta Arenas. The bay of
Ttircoles also affords a good anchorage, where communication is easy with the
sliorc.

• To the westward of Ciipe lilanco a bank is imukcil on aomc cliiots; t;.i|it. dc L.ijiclin
iluul'ts its i'xi.sti;iicu.

Till-: COAST OF COSTA IlICA.

iitf

^11 }

1 1 1

Cai.detia was the port of entry for Costa L'ica till 18-10, at wliicli time its
iiiilu'iillhiness caused it to be aljaiuloned for I'unta do Arenas, notwithstanding
its security, and its proximity to the capital. It is about 33 miles IS'.E. of
Cape Blanco.*

PUNTA ARENAS (or Puntarenas).— In 1810, Tuntu Arenas was declared
a free port, and it is now one of the most important coniniercial places on the
coast of Central America. It is the only port of the state of Costa Kiea, which
is freipiented on the Pacific, and through it almost all its exj)orts and imports
pass. The sandy peninsula on which the town stands shelters an interior an-
chorage, called the Estero, into which, at high water, vessels drawing 13 ft.
can enter ; to the South of it is a sj)at ions roadstead, with an average depth of
6 J fathoms, wliich, although secure in the line season, requires some precautions
against the southerly winds.

Punti Arenas has a population of about l,.5tiO. Its streets are straight and
regular, but disagreeable from the sandy st)il. Tlu'v extend along the Estero,
by which all communications with the outer road lake jdace. Esj)arta, 13
miles distant, is connected with I'unta Arcnr-^ by a railway. At Alajuela,
320 ft. above the sea, the railway again begins, uud runs to Cartago, vi4 San
Jos6.

In 1882, 91 vessels, with a total tonnage of 150,017, entered this port, nearly
all belonging to the United States. Tlie value of the e.\])orts for the same year
was estimated at £703,862, of which coffee represented £084,825 ; iudia-
rubber and hides make up the balance.

In entering the Gulf of Nicoya the only precaution necessary is to hug the
eastern shore, for the ebb tide, which runs to S.W. to the (South of the
Negritos, is less felt, and the dej)th, though great, is less than on the western
side ; so that in case of a calm, or contrary current, an anchorage is more readily
tbund ; or you may be drifted out of the gulf, or else on to the Negritos (or
Nigretas), near to v liich the dejjths are great. You may readily know them by
a large black rock in front of them, having the appearance of a sail.

i> I

i?'<

|ii^

• Caldcru hii.s lucii pioiioi-cd ii« the I'liciCc toniiinu!, of ono f.ftlui iiitor-oociinii; coiuiiiuni-
cntions. According to ii iLixrl, j)iiblii-hi;d in 18(iG, bj Mr. F. K;irtzt', CE., diructur of the
jiublic works of Contu Kica, a wuygon road from sen to sea was jii8lconii)lited, starting from
J'orl Limon, neiir Point HLiiico, fiu iiiilus South of Oreytown, on the AUuniic side, crossing
tho siiininit 1«;vl1 nrnr Cartago. 5,118 ft. above llir sta, jiassingnoar San Jo.-6, tho capital,
terminating at Caldura. It is a n.acadainirttd road, (ilJ ft. wide, with cut-stono bridges, and
with ample width for constructing ii railroad ovtr ninch of its course. Siuco tli.it time a
railway has betn cdislructed from I'oit Liuion to Kio Sucio, a distance of 72 uiilca, and
about '2(i miles from 8an Jose.

Two ciiudh have also been proposed to terminate in the Gnlf ofNicoya, ono from tho River
Wan Juan, by the Hio San Carles, terminiiting near I'unta Arenas; and a second froii. tlio
Lake Nicaragua, by the liio Nuio, and iht l!io TliiiIM; ijue, which tails into tho Loud of tho
Ciulf of -Niiuya.

.39

Soon off.,. p„„f„^, t,,^ ..^^ 35

'^vee„ those islands and tJ.at of S '' "^ '^"' ^'^-S-'ito-s, you « ill , .

^'''- called a,.,.^,,; •^^; ;7;two.,„,r.al,,ei.J,: ^^^t r

to the Ea.st fomuHl hv L , '' ^'^J^»-'»'<1 JJclchor^ i. I'l ' "*

t'i\> "'Pommun cation ujti, ,i ^ fathoms, fi„p ^.. , '"^

"•■l»ascs m,,. b„ „i„„ J _ ''''"S. l.c,„g ,„„„ „„„, „ ■"■'''' ■<-

::'■ '■ »■■" "» " -" to JiVs" :' ■„ Tw "■■•'■"■ '■■■ ''^ '""»-.;:..';

* ff thn lighthouse nr thp fown f, . ~

' ' '• "-■■"*:"r:::;;::;::-;- - '"-"';'"" ' *»« "*

^t . I.

■H-t

t
■ t

)

:.1

THE COAST OF COSTA RICA.

Tho tides arc rcgahii- at Punta Arenas ; their maxiiuuin velocity is 1 J knot,
and tlie average 1 knot. Tlif cstaljiishnierit of the port at I'luita Arenas is
3'' lO"", and the range at .springs 10 ft. 2 in.

Water is to be procured at the Rio liaranca, 7 miles to the Kast of the an-
chorage. The bar can only be passed between half flood and half ebb. The
i-iver must he asceivrled for a mile, xintil the boat grounds, before which the
water is not fresli, a«d even then is sometimes not very good. On account of
the tides, not more than two trips can be made in the day. Fresh provisions
are abundant, but live bulloekn cannot be easily procured. Sea stock may
frequently bo jiwocured, but not in large quantiti""* The healthiness of Punta
Arenas is but cu«*purati>»'*> : fever is prevalent thr>ughout the }ear, attacking
natives and strangers ahke, but milder in the fine season than in the opposite
one.

There is no coasting tr:ule in Coata Rica, as there is only one port open on
the I'acilic. The earrying trade along tho coast <»f CVjjlral America is almost
entirely monopolized by the Ainerwan Pacific Mail ateameris, in connection
with the Panama Railway.

Punta Arenas was a free port till January, 1861 ; sinc<> th*^» customs duties
have been co leetod, but th(^ shipjiing dues have not been altered These arc
tonnage dues and anchorage duos, each 25 cents per ton register, o dollars
(£1) for license, 1 dollar per man for hospital dues, ^ real (3?/.) per ton light-
house dues.

Owing to till' putiiil filling upof the harbour, vessels are obii;::i'd to lie much
farther off than formerly, and there is some trouble in landing &c.. at low
water. A wharf was constructed in 1871, and is used for landing and shii)ping
cargo, and there is also ;. small steam-tug for towing the hiunches. With
steamers, which arrive ^ ail iiours of the day and night, much damage is done
to the goods in the iannches by rain and spray. The lighthouse is not in good
order, and much reliance shouW not be placed on it : the commander of the
Chilian corvette Chacafntco. 1878, stated that the lights at the town were
visible before that of the lighthouse was seen. On account of the deleriora-
(ioi) of Punta Arenas, it was projK.>sed to remove the port to Tarcoles, a spot
to tb* eastward, and nearer to the capital ; bu': it was ni>gatived by the ''on-
gress m 18^4. The restrictive policy of the Government i>as much redticd
th'' pri»sj)erity o^ the port, which is now little more than a depot.

The COAST U) the north-westward of Cape HIaneo is almost unknown, ani.
xionsiquently, should not be do.sely approafhcd. A very imperfect survey dt'
it was mnde by Mr. Hull, R.N., in IH.y.t, and Cajjt. de Lajielin also made a
aligl.i sKctch of it, but the two do not agree. The coa.st is liigh and wooded.
and hill* o beach at wliite sand interriipted at intervals by reddish-coloured
clitfs ;* tlie i,''^\(it hil'b rarely exceed ''ape Rjnnco in elevation. The bcacli is

of .sat
iandin
X.U'.,

off will'

about 1
so calle
well wo

The

the iiort

It is scai

the pecu

<leherihed

ing from

sun, with

At Capi

he says, "

Point 'i'ehj

breeze .-e.'d

distance of

In pa.'^sin

miles off' ,sji

duration, an

be impraelic

t" die \,ji't),

Gorda Po

Cap* OaiotiH ^ 1^1 fffmi\\\\ IB marked <jI1 bi(< chart at iH inili'd tVoin Ciipe Blitnco, andiiO

1 1 i ■■

"'■= mr;„T OF ,..,p.,„,n-„.

<■«■ »'n-eh oxu.,ul.s a roof .Z ' ^' ^^ '° ''"^"^ ^'->'-^' or I ^ '" ^''«

'"^-'t ^'8 n,ilo,s distant is .r'' *''" *""'« ^'> the ^^uV f "!/^^~-.

il'e northward to Bealoio I ' • ^, '""^ ^' ""'^ '» commence ]n>r.

It is scarcely worthv of ' ''"' ^' ^''"''^ ^'•'no in the -' "*'"''''"«• ^"

!«' imjnaetieahlo •■ ,i - *" ^^''""n Hie offin,, u, ^ '^' snorter

■ — ~ ' ' '^ '"'''''* to A'^VH . ^

nul.Hfarth,,i« v„,„„,, ' • • ot tape

■"■ «'(/! <iwn fops, rho l'„r* f M •'"■3' '^muthihU, .„ .

^-"'f.- little ..oek., ..JWno vl '7 '-^'^"'^'"^ 'a,.iw.,,« r';:""''^«-'.'-.'n^

*i.V.*^ -.^i^iSB^^W^JitMaW-

XRBK'l-KtXGHWfK'CnUItliaiM

THE rOAST OF COSTA RTOA.

I?::n

Velas, in lat. 10° 32' N., long. 85° 47' W., nnd some islands are said to lie off
the intervening coast. At tltis point the coast turns abruptly to the K.N.E.,
towards Port Culebra.

Off Point Gordrt arc several high rocks, the two largest, which are close
together, are about 2.J or 15 miles from the land, the others lie principally more
to the North and N.K. ; they were all high, and the smuller ones have very
much the appearance of upright tombstones ; others again, at first sight, appear
like a ship under canvas.

PORT CULEBRA was surveyed by Capt. Sir Edward Belcher in 1S38. The
.'ipot at which he observed, at th" head of the port, he places in lat. 10'' 30' 55" N.,
long. H')" 38' W. (corrected). 'l"he entrance to the port is between the North
and South Jlradcrca, some dctjiched cliffy islands, IJ mile apart. Between
the South Yirad(UTs and Cacit/iie Point, to the N.W. of which they lie, there
■ix a channel of .'> to 1 fathoms ; but, as a rocky reef runs off a quarter of n
mile to the West of the point, and some detached rocks lie South of the
Viradores, it should not be used.

Cocos Bay lies to the southwa7'd of the South Viradores, and between Cacique
Point and Mu/a Point, bearing S.W. I)y S. from the former, the distance being
about l\ mile. These points are both rocky cliffs, surmounted by hills. Coeos
Bay may be about a mile in depth within the line of opening. The bottom is
formed by a sandy beach, off the South part of which a line of rocks runs North
about a ijuarler of a mile, and another small rock lies in its eastern part. It lies
(^ntirel)- open to the N.W. /Sent/ii Point lies !.J mile S.W. from Mign Point,
the West exireme of the bay, and midway between is u cliffy islet. To the
eastward of Caeicjuo Point i.s a similar l>ay to Coeos Bay, having about the
same wiiltli to IJuaia Point, which forms the South point of Port Culebra.
'Hie port extends nearly 4 miles within the two entrance points, Buena a.ad Mala,
a mile asunder; and is about 2 miles wide, the depth even, G to 18 fathoms,
atul anchorage everywhere.

Port Culebra is certainly magnificent; and, from information by the natives,
it is connected with Salinas, and thence to Nicaragu."., tiraiuida, &c. If anv
iiiilroad is contemplated in this (luarter, it ought to enter at the Bay of Salinas,
wliicli would render these two ports important.

Water fit for consumption war, not found .it the beach, but maj- be obtained
n short distance up the creek, which a boat may enter at high water. If w<'ils
were dug, doubtless it would be found at th.'. N.W. side, .as the surrounding
country is mountainous. Another symptom iii "ivour of this is the thiekly-
woode<l sides and summits, as nvII as bright green spots of vegetation through-
out the bay.

Brazil wood is very aluindant ; mahogany and cedar were observed near the
beach, but ax they have been emj)lojed cutting the Hra/.il, jirobably all tlio
tedai and nialic>gany, easily iittainable, has been taken. Timb*"-, in qreiit
variety, abounded. In the bay, where Il.M.S Starliiii/ was at anchor, tluif

'laiigei-ed tl

seliisto.se se:

CAPE El

^'oi'it, the c.

tremity of t

^ieut. Bouca

'''"«. in 1859,

'ion 3 niiJcs t

Jclljrth.s fyom 1

J'oi'it is anoth(

'J''ie poninsu

I'Ke a long prit

and ,„, its \oj.t

ST. ELEIf A

"'"i i« about 5 r

■" a "lile due W

■'■■'^ '"i .second roc

■'"f^'f of the ba

'i'''"lersofamiI(
'^lilioiiis, and prol

'•"')■ '■" a channel
"'■""- ''^'.V«. 'I'hcrt
'■"■''"' entrance of

SALIIfAS BAY

^ u

4.3

wns a large viJ/.n^.o m I » ^^^L/NAS /j,^ y

'-- ^Vo„eh chit. ''"^'^"'"'' ^"^ ''-7 arc „.. rjoHr t"" '^ ""■'^' ""•.

^'7- ^^-e to the shore ""^— "-t position, t .2 77" '■""-'••

t'-T watered at (between t ' ^'™ '"•« ^"^-^rabJe rivuJ .

••""-" °^''-- constant s rf n'^r"^ "'"'^ '^-^^^T^i '"* ""'^ ^"«t

^"'"e down the gullies wTh ' ^"'^ '"^'""'•^' «ven /„ .i f '" "J^l'-'-^eh, by

-''-to.se serpentine, cont'i f"' ^''--^ter of the ! ""' " ^'■'' - -'-

^""'t, the coast between h/ '^ ''^^"^ ^-' '"iles JV h .,.

;-''-V of thepeniZ: IteV""^ ""'"°-- '^^^^^ ^ ^ '^^ '' '^^'^
L-eut. Boucarut wlu. separates the Af,„ 7^ " ''^« ^^^ten, c.

"-• '■" '«5^>, ^>i>^ tl"""' '^''^ ^-^' "• t e^; r "^'°^^ ^-- ^^'e„. L ;■
''- -'^ nn-,es to " "•;"""^ ^'^ ^'^ -stern o, H ^"""^ ^« ^''^--I'

1'7' - another, whie re„n re ' ''"''' """ ■'•^ a nnij u "'' ' '^'•"''^'''^

"^; « '-. pHs,n, the sh ,:^ 77^^ ^ ^he West ^ ^^^^ ^^''^■•
""J'-nitsNonhMdei, ^ '"°^" "PP'-'nnost. Th.. ' '■"^"•'""es, is

ST. ELEITA bIy "!" "'^ ^T «teep. j, • ''^. "'^^- - "meh serrated

»'; 'n"^> ciue MVst of whi h a ?r""""- '"^ ""'■'^-- i'- 1 1 T- """"' -""'"t.
«"d a .second rock at ^ ^^■''" ^""^ is marJ-.., '"^ ^^^v,,-/.,

•"'^''^' of the ,,7."''"'"'"'^-ofa ,nile ,„ .J^*"''"' "" the French ..h,.

'"'>'" -^'--it!t^rvT'°""^'^-'^ «''Ht- ^.,t' '^ """« - '^

'■''"- '-.V.S. Therear .■^"^^'-'""'-'a which se ' ^■'''■' P'^rtieu-

:;"" --e o;;r:; ^:::;;'> -^^a .., :;-:-:-- -« two

.''f"'««-Msahigherisland , ^' '" "'*^ '^""thern.nost Ata) ^"^"'•'■*' 'V'-J?

^-"^^•. u.h.eh . , ,,„ J

':--'fW. '^

• >t

^fl

'I:

f. '■< I

f"-

TIIM COAST OF COSTA RICA, KTC.

N.Iv by N. of Pdint Descartes and Point Arntica liarho on the North side,
the entrance is '2 i miles wide, and tlic depths 18 to 20 fathoms. From thia
line to a narrow sandy beach aX its head the depth of the bay is 4 miles, and
the depth gradually shoalens tO 7 and 4 fathoms. Salinas Island is placed by
Sir Edward lielcher in lat. IT 2 oO' N., long. 85'' 48' 40" W. (corrected). It
lies on the South side of tlie bay, and is almost connected with the Soutli shore
by a shoal which has from 3 to 16 ft. water on it, but i) fathoms between tho
shoal and the S.W. coast. On tho North side of tho bay a reef of rocks lies
against the shore, called Ei Osteonal. 'Vo enter Salinas IJay, a good mark,
according to ('apt. dc Lapelin, is to bring the sharp volcanic Peak of Orosi,
cleft on the summit, and 5,200 ft. high, to bear S. 83'^ E., which will lead up
to the island, under the shelter of which there is good anchorage in the season
of the West and S.W. winds.

Salinas I5ay offers many facilities for commercial purposes, and being sepa-
rated by only a narrow isthmus, 20 miles wide, from Lake Nicaragua, it has
attracted attention us an advantageous terminus for an inter-oceanic canal.
The line is from the Nicaragua Lake, by the Sapoa Valley, to the southern i)art
of the bay.

Cape Nathan is 4^ miles N.W. by W. J W. from the North point of Salinas
13ay, the coast between being much broken up into small bays, with bluH" pro-
jecting points between them. Some islets lie to the West and N.W. of the
cape at a (juarter of a mile distant, but the water is deep close outside them.
The same irregular and bold coiist continues for 8 miles farther to N.W. to the
southern entrance point of San Juan del Sur.

3. NICARAGUA.

The Republic of Nicaragua is commercially one of the most unimportant
states in the world. Its jwpulation, estimated at from 300,000 to 400,000
inhabitants, of whom about one-twentieth are whites, produce or require com-
])aratively little for the rest of tho world. Coffee and india-rubber are tho
chief productions ; the value of the exports in 1882 amounted to £419,7(i2,
and the imports £3.')2,043. Were it not for its magnificent line of lakes, by
which an accessory Transit Route was once established under the auspices of
Mr. V'anderbilt. it would not be worth notice. Since the .state has thrown utf
tht' yoke of Spaiti, it lias gradually sunk in power and wealth, and the few
resi>ectablc inhabitants Live s-imall weight m s^tate affairs. The northern part
of the republic is mountainous, but the southern part Ls a vast plain, in whicli
lie ilic famous lakc.s. being about -iw iiuies long iiid ion miU- liroad, c uiim,-I-

bn's

the ;

and

isthii

catioi

Jfurn

iiectcf

Joj)ubl

about

i^edfor,

POB

'iccount

reason c

distingu

San Jua:

or forefgi

J-'iid betw

'i'his pc

•'■ IVoctor
•'ii.in i.s i„

'he j)r()
iiiinate hen
lating this
"ould form
t''e Pacific,
•'\fi-. Ste])i
"liich was
^^■''«''«'. bein.
parallel, run,
<^'f>ular bluffs,
under either

* Tie po.Hitior

f'Hic. r.H. Tho lo,
W'StHv.ni ; \na as
•"wiJian of C;illa

'''''•T'liinations ,.r,

t Mr. V,^i\y^ „ J

'■> survey of (

lor the most part of tine sa> uiuiuii.i.

The gttai

Madrt

ang.'.

m,ik.

'""' ."■"•( of tho ni
f-^^-'-Julici l.roJu. on
^''>^'mu,„,,.liy„ f„

rW'T .SAN JVAN m. .,„„.

>•"•'"'•»(,■ wi.h i,w, , """" ra,. SUB.

jmirncj- 1„. „„j , «'"'»'■ Loon, „ fi„„ „|j > « «ho co.,,,,,^,,,,

"■"■".fie, „j .i 7*' -"-■".o,,. 11,.,„„„,.,;';' *= «- Sa„ J,,,.,,
"■■ S.c,.ac„ »,. *„■; °"' '» "■ .^bovo t„o «„::■ '"" "" "" '•■ »bove

*-"■ ■«« -..« .„fa Tew"","*""- ■"'<- ... 1°, „! ;r "'"' "»• "' "Vn.™

■»■*■«" of c„„,„ ,,„ ™ "'■ » i.. «.,„„ „„ „; ^ " ''!■ ''.». »• ,0 ,• fai; ;

:,"-'""""-■ '-^.u^. ::;;■•''•'- »"•= p™-;;^:'.:;" "»"■'»».. b.

- ■"'. ;;t? ."""•' °"-- ". e»rw,. ., .,.

■■■i:

r;, ;•

mmmmmmm

THE COAST OK NICARAGUA.

I I 'I I ■;

if iill

with perfect safety- Supposing this to be correct, there is hut one ohjertion
to this hnrbour, wliich I derive from Ciipt. D'Yriastc, with whom I miuie tlio
voyage from Zonzouatc to Caldera. He told me that during the summer
months, from November to May, tho strong North winds wliich sweep over
the Lake of Nicaragua, pass with such violence through the Gulf of Papagayo,
tliat during the prevalence of these winds it is almost impossible for a vessel to
enter the Port of San Juan.

" The harbour was perfectly desolate, for years not a vessel had entered it ;
primeval trees grew around it, for miles there was not a habitation ; I have
walked the shore alone. Since Mr. Baily loft not a person had visited it ; and
probably the only thing that keeps it alive, even in memory, is the theorising
of scientific men, or the occasional visit of some Nicaragua fisherman, who, too
lazy to work, seeks his food in the sea. It seemed preposterous to consider it
the focus of a great commercial enterprise ; to imagine that a city was to rise
up out of the forest, the desolate harbour to be filled with ships, and become a
great portal for the thoroughfare of nations. But the scene was magnifi-
cent.

" At 7 o'clock we started, recrossed the stream, at which we had procured
water, and returned to the first station of Mr. Baily. It was on the River San
Juan, li mile from the sea. The river here had sufficient depth of water for
large vessels, and from this point Mr. Baily commenced his survey to the Lake
of Nicaragua." — Incidents of Travel, ^"c.

When the Central American transit route was established to assist the
traffic to California, this lonely hai-bour assumed a different aspect. It was
made the Pacific steam packet port communicating with the line established
from New York by the way of the Lake of Nicaragua and the isthmus. The
government of the state decreed the erection of a city ( Concordia or Pinedci)
on the shore of the bay which forms the harbour. In 1852 this city consisted
of a large encampment and a few wooden houses, pompously styled hotels,
hut on the abandonment of the transit route it sank to nearly its original
solitude.

The shore in this neighbourhood is cut up into an infinity of bays or creeks.
It is very steep-to, as you nearly touch the shore when in 14 or IG fathoms.
From the great similarity of these bays there is some difficulty in making out
the Port of San Juan del Sur, which is most readily done by the bearings of
the volcanos of Momobaclio, Omotepe, Madera, or Orosi, which rise above the
land like so many beacons.

Momobacho is like that of San Salvador in all particulars. Its height,
4,4S2 ft., will not allow it to be seen in every direction, except you are some
miles off shore. But the pointed summit of the cone of Omotepo (in the
Lake Nicaragua), 5,0o() ft., high, and the well-marked saddle of the volcano of
Madera, can always be seen, in clear weather, overtopping the hills nearer the
&ea. In favourable circumbtanccs the volcano of Orosi, 6, '200 ft. high, with its

two p

The

''o gair

The

San Jua

N.K. i ]

a hill o

Hitliin al

The hi

on the Jji

folour, an

t.ince apai

t'litiance i

""y. and tl

Vessels
keeping ov(
^wth side,
liolding groi
"'c risk of
g''>los fi.om V
The harho
'** t'lo same
entering, aa p,
IS pi'ocurod fr
'"t'H- fresJi prov
^^e Lapelin.

^" 18G9, a 1

^^•E. partof th(

fort JTacaso

ami to the N.W,

'^ ""ly the reso,

"'•"• '■'. and it nc

'■^ •"'■'•''• portion,-

'^'"' ''liortcn the t

''';'•■'' there is a ,

"^'wtliward of

^^^■' '-y W. diroc

f«st produces dy,

''"""'"l- From i„,

'"^ooasthetween i

'"'"■■"Ith.t article.

I :'.

•I

"""l' «AN „,^ „,, ^^^

''"" ^-n all po4JeX:^"7"«'''P to reach th;;;':':\*"^ to East or

^ '^'^'e .ea4, j^t ^J- ^eep to the land Xlt" '.^"""^ "i> to "
'^■•'n Juan del Sur and , "' ^''" I>«'"t out at7r '''* " ''"'"'^t.

T'>e hill on the Zth ,' '"'' ^''^ ?«•"'« of " k'"' "' "^ ^'-^'L When
"" '^0 lands heh. 'df ^j'''^ '•^"'-"' "i'P- fe' ^^ ''-■"."ished
-'our, and on the eomf,., ' ' °" ^'^^ «-th L iike a ' "^'^ ^"'^>'«'> P«teh
^""- -^P-t; these are r.7 "^ ^^^ --t are t reVr; ''""^ °' -'"'^'
^■""-'- - made out t e I '""^'"'"'-' ^y oe an l' , '"'"'•^' -"-" "'-
-^•' -J then son^e ho„st T ""' ''"' "-'-^r vil H '"°" "^'^ the
^ ^--Is generall/:: 7 ""• '''■■'^''- ' ""'' ^'^ ^^- are

l^-Ping over to the Sout^ "'''''^' '^'^ ^^arbour in f

''"''K ground against th ""^ ''"'^^ ^^^oken sh..)/ ^ """'""''« o« the

: "'-"-d from wel : :■; ''"-^>- '^'■^"•nJ the head's th'r^^' "°«'' -''''e

7 fr-h provisions „t'l i,. ' " '< --, and Iffi^ ^^ ^'-'--- Water

/>; Z«^./,>,. '"^'' Pnces. there is nothing ^ '° ^^'- ^-^ept a

^" '«G9, a large iron ) ^''^""''^^ l^'-^'c.-,

SE. 1-art of the bTv 1 , °^' ^"^ '"«°'-^d off the .
P«.+ » ^^' ""<' "ear it fi„. "° town in <; <•„„

fort Jfacascolo, vV«„„/ 7 "''' ''' "nchora-e in w / ^''°'"''' '" the

^"'1 to the N. W of y"y^'' «'• /'^aya //..,«1" ^ *" « ^''thoms.

'""'^ '■'- '•"'" 't neve h s ""''" ---"al,; ,t ^'^.^-•'^'-. and, Ji.^ '
"^ '■''■ portion is as 0" '""''^^ ^« ^^ I,- ral F ''^ "° ^•^"'^^'^ or towl'

;tl,.ard of San irirV '^''"^'^' ^"^ ^--" °^ ^^'-agua, to

■^■^^' V W. direction Z *'"'' *^^ ''oast trends ,

"'"^^'■""--clye-."., o ?' ■^"'^^" '■" •■' former 'n ""^ ^^'•"■^^* '« a
r""' ^^--"C onl "^^^ ^- Mhil :fV^«^'«trict on the

.1^

TIIF, rOAST OF NIC All A CUT A.

I 11

i I

the aiioliorap;t> is ))(Mfpctly safe, pnrticuliirly fnun Novcmliir il!l Mmv. Tlio
wimls uic then t'oiisiuntly JVoiii ilic N.lv, lh()iij;li thi'y soiiiotimes blow very
strong; hut tlio sca-hrcc/os durinj!; tliosc months never reaeli tlie coast.

Brito is the first jxiiiit of interest North of San Juan. It is 7] miles norlli-
westward of Nacaseolo, and is a small hay open to the S.W. It is the ter-
minus of II canal pioposed by Colonel Orville \V. ( hilds and Mr. Fay. civil
eni^inccrs, in 1850-1. 'l"he narrow neck of land was well surveyed, and the
canal waH to leave the Lake of Nicariij^ua by the L'iver Lajas, opposite the
island and volcano of Oniotepe. and would re(piire twelve locks to cross the
separation into the I'acific. Ihit the costly works required in the Atlantic at
San Juan de Nic^araj^ua and at Ih-ito, besides all the intermediate en;;ineeriii}.;
(lidicultics, |)lacc the sciicine beyond controversy. Jirito was prontiuiiccd by
competent authority to be in size and shape unworthy of this ^icat ship
navigation. This scheme has again been revived in the United States.

The coast to the northward of Ihito was surveyed by Malaspina, but wc
have no particulars of it beyond those given on liau/a's chart. Hut as there
really is no point of maritime interest on it, this is of the less importnnce.
Mr. 0. U. Skinner says that after Hrito follows .Hoffotc, an oj)en anchorage ;
next Cdinrm, off the mouth of a river between some reefs. This, by the road,
is 21 miles from the town of Ximotcpe, and which is 'M miles from Managua
on the lake. At 9 miles further along the coast is the road oL\[asupa, and 1 (i
miles further is the anchorage of Mamcliapa, to the southward of Point !S(in
Andres. HciC the Bru/il-H-ood district terminates.

Sir Edward Hclcher, in i)assing along to the North, began to cxi)crience
gusts from the Lake of Managua (no liigh land intervening in its course),
causing him to go under treble-reefed topsails, &c.

The coast trends, generally, to N.W. by W., and the position of these places
is not marked on the charts. They are generally sandy beaches, separated by
clilTs, against which the sea breaks with great violence. When in about lat.
ll-* hh' the volcano of Momobacho, 4,482 ft. high, will be seen inland when at
some distance off shore, as it is not higli enough to be seen over the hnid wluii
close in. It much resembles the volcano of San Salvador in appearance, and
seems to be of the same outline in all directions. The land within is very
even on the summit, though not very lofty.

C(ipe Denohtdii, an appropriate name, lies in about lat. IP 58', and it seems
almost in mockery that one or two stunted slirubs are allowed to stand on its
smnmit. Mahogany and cedar grow in the vicinity of the cape, and about H'
miles to the N.W. by N. of it is Tamarinda.*

Tamarinda is only an open beach, where the coast becomes somewlrit
lower, near the river entrance ; beyond it, it rises again, and is called tin'

• The Frii'ch directions pkce Punta llosolinlii in l;it. vr IV X,, lunij. 80" JS' .jl W,, or
about lU) niiluB to the norlh-wu.itwiirJ ut tlif above iioi-ition.

■■^'iitlnvar
>vaid of (
on it in J,

^feJji'nd
"'■ such g,

'^ '"erica n

""■""Kh th,
'"'^-'icst inn,

'^'"J LAiv

"'"''•"•'''nw to

'" ""■'''«. an,

'^■' "loins in SOI

'"'•rea.si„^, g„

"'"• '» 'le])tJ, c

"'^"'■e that of t

'^''"■« basin is]

""■'^■■•^ '■» bmultl

"""f »r them

""•■ '""uiitains

"f water near A

'"""'""•c is 200

'■^''""'■^ nnd grou

'■'"''■"■rass the nal

"""■'• ''>an the A

;"'"■ '■' "•« no il

^"'^ fo feeep the]

f'W'"ff places at f
^";"'^' ihe night.
, ^\' '"'•g'-'st i.s/an|
''.^''■""^'•' the first ,
f ■■'""•« volcanos „

;;'' "'"^ '^'0 last i,|
^^'"■'"'''^•'' notil

iii

'»'^J^l3>dMlU.

■If)

'^ '^''''-'t- No ,. f ""'^'- ^i"'"^^ an,, s,.i ;" , ;" ^t^''' "--in. n,.,.,,y

«. Vessels : r;'"^ ^•■"' '- "''ta.-„., ;"'; • ''"' ""•■ "-'^-t-n

south Hard of ,1. ^i^ ^■'thonis );, „ .. ., "" •'^'"•/m.

"V '" ^""""O-. 1877. "-^ ''•^''•■'^■--' ''y tho ,.a u. ; " ""^"'■^^■"■^'-

^^^■'"■"^1 the coast /ust ,. •. '"■"' ■^"•''^'%'

"'■ ^u^'h «roat in, ''^'""•'f>ocl arc the ,,rc.f , i

^-Hea^:: ;-; ^"^ P^'^-t Of t::^^-;'^;"-.Uion.,.a„a
:"-"^"^ 'he i.h,„ ,/7r '" '''"'' ''- «'vf l"''" "-"^- An
'"^"-'l-'intisonly; ft^7' - ''-- opposite side J ,'"';' ,""" '"- -'t

'" ""■'-• «nJ the „.' rr""' "^''^ - ^0 ,„i es ,o ' l'"' ''^ -^'-. "nd.
^""'"--•n so„.e p,";r. "^ •""-• The depth o "t '^>""^'^^^ '^--'t'. ..

«'tI.udepthof.|5Lh ^' ""'^ '-^ fatho,„s tl, , ' '"''" '"'•"'" '',

«^"- that of the ;^ ::; '- ^^^ -"-. The ,e:^ X 7^" "^"'"'^ -<^

«^ -ater near the s" 1 "' ''^''^''^ ^''^^■'"■•'^-.s i„t ^ '^ '""''^'^ ^- a-ay ;„

'•^'•-'« an" groups of isle^v .r'"'^ ^' ^'^^--s deep t, , ''" ^-

"""""•^■•''^« the navi,,at,o„ nor ^ .^"""' '"'"•^^ ^^ the ,1 f '" '"' «"'-al
"'": '"- the shano; ; ;;''';^ -'->-.... ineo,„n „ ^\ : ""^ °^ 'he.
"""''• it is no imnedi,,., ? '"™= "'"' ^'Ven this : ^ ^ '^°"''^ «'' banks,

^-^ *° J^eep the s ' l' '^^ ;'" ^" ^'^ eraft at p e^ ""^' ''■'"'"^'- -
y-^ Peaces at th" W I^ f "-'' ^- the- purpoC of i'; "^^' ''^ i--iee
^"^"'K U>e night. '"^ '''^^■' "'^ tho3- .scarce, • eve, ""^' '^o" venient

.'^''r"^»"''^^'-^'-"-nthe,..k

''f?^''i'", the first . *" "'■'^ 0,notepe \r.„,

f "- •■«'-«: o:;i: ";: r--'" -' »": :• :rr'""- ■'■■""■■

^""^'t--'. Solentiname nnd :. ' "■*' '^ '"''""^t trianL^,, "^'' '"" ''avo

"'""• and the last ' ? • "^T'"' '^'^ -nailer, an ' ■"': "'^' ' '"'^-s I-^ng

":----' -^-r;:- tr" T' "^e:;;.:r''^'^^'^' '- -- -

'^-M/v.,>-,. ' ^""'''^' '*'""•- oi' the Lake of V

( ,

ii'

■ :n.

■i.r#%

"^f^"^'

IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)

1.0

I.I

^ lis illlM

1.8

1-25 1.4 1.6

►

Photographic

Sciences
Corporation

€^

«•

«>
*

33 WEST MAIN STREET

WEBSTER, NY I4S80

(716) 877-4S03

.<9

«'

THE COAST OF NICARAGUA.

the city of Niciiragua anil the Omotepe Volcano, S,OAO ft. above the •««.
Mr. Stcpheni says it reminded him of Mount Ktna, rising, like the pride of
Sicily, from the water's edge, a smooth un -oken cono to the above height.
Near the town of Granada, at the N.W. end of the lake, there is the best an>
fhurag'. for ships of the largest dimensions.

The Uike of Niearngiin is connected with that of I^eon by means of the River
runnloyn (or Tipitupu), navigable for the bongos employed in that country for
12 miles, as fur us the pluco called Pasquiei, where the inhabitants go to cut
nnd bring away Hrazilinn timber. The 4 miles which remain between that
place and the Lake uf Leon are not navigable by any kind of boat, whatever
nmy be its construction, because, beyond Ptt8(|uiel, the channel is obstructed
by a vein of rocks, which, when the river is swollen, are covered with water;
but in the dry season, the water sinks so low that it can only escu])e through
gradually diminishing fissures in the rocks. At a distance of a mile beyond
this first vein of rocks, we find another more solid, wkiub, crossing the river
at right angles, forms a cascade of 13 ft. descent.

The Uiver Tipitapa, which discharges itself into the Lake of Nicaragua, is
the only outlet fur Luke I^on. The lands bordering this river are somewhat
low, but fertile, having excellent jmsturage ; as at Chontules, they are divided
into grazing and breeding furius. All this country, covered with Krazilian
timber, is scantily inhabited. The only village is that of Tipitapa, situuted
near tP- - ubove-meutiuned waterfall.

The Lake of Lkon or .VIanaoua is from 32 to 35 miles long, and 16 miles
at its greatest width. It receives from the circumjacent lands, chiefly from
the eastern coast, a number of small streams. According to Mr. Lawrence, of
11. M.S. Thunderer, it is not so dee]) as that of Nicaragua.

The I.akc of Managua is 2ft ft. 3 in. above that of Nicaragua; ond, according
to M. Oarella, the tlifl'erenee between hiyh water in the I'aeific and low water
iu the Atlantic is \\^\ ft. In the pr<>]M>Hition for making use of these lakes, it
is stated that the ground is perfectly level between the head and Uealcjo, one
of the best ports on the coast ; but the distance is 33 miles in a straight line,
and to Mr. Stephens the difficulties seemed to be insui>erablc. Sir Kdwurd
Belcher was of opinion that there is no insurmountable obstacle to connecting'
the I^kc of Managua with the navigable stream, the Estero Keal, fulling into
the Oulf of Fonscca.

Lkon is the largest city of the state of Nicaraguo ; it was formerly a place
of imiwrtance, with a population of 32,0UU souls, but has been since greatly
reduced by anarchy and other distressing circumstances. The population now
amounts to about 25,000. It is situated on a plain about 21 miles froai
Keulejo, 9 miles from the sea, and 16 miles from the Lake of Managua. It
carries on some trade through Corinto, with which it is connected by a rail-
way, which ia ulso being extended to Leon Viejo, on the shores of Lake

# '111

ine niy .
•nd ho ottfli i\
mtrchid up to
"•r to it, he «.

(fiw-v naraniin]

•"UgHf »o,Jj^ 3

«« '■^rd. wl.ich U

^ »n i»idi«n tow

ple«<Muit slruight

^ «'' B. Uelch

•courge iow»rt

•ny csDsl into th

"le E,te,u j{^,„j_ ,

are the volcano- „f T ^''*' southward In „ • 7 '^'"" C"'d<»n.

.« '«* r„f T' 'T '■""•• '*"•" rz,'^" ■^"•'' '» ^--i.

i.iu .,.., ' these after Rl i" • ""''"' f tara. 'iVIin* ■ .■

'' ;'' ''" ^- It is a regular unj f ''^° "' ^^--t.-mho. u " ''«

, ''-' I-rt is formed by th. thr 7 "'"'"^ ^'^"^ «f =^.»50 feet '" '"''•

__^^^^ „ three-quarters of a niil.> • ,

• -K»r work. 3 „,^ furtl ,'*"'''"■ ^^°"t « •"".. ' „ JT'^ •'*""'"-^. of Ion,
««- i..d.a„ tow„. w2 iT'r'r '-^'^^ there iT L' "^^Z' ^'^l ^'^ <- « flnervj

•course .own, th. ei./of^;'^ ■*'«' '^-t th, E,tero (o er^.k, of ,,

•-y C.D.1 into th, P.oiL „ , • """* •• ""^''K-ble to within q^ ^ ^'""' ^"''''» t«ko.

^"''""m

■^ .f

ir > I
t

THE COAST OF NICAIIAGUA.

shoal water cxten(I:> some dintancc off its scnward face. Its southern point is
('ape Auttro, surrounded by a shoal. To the S.S.E. of this is Cailunon liluff,
the western point of Castanon Island. I'hcsc two points are a quiirter uf u
mile apart, and the channel between is called the liarra FuUa. Conmiy Reef,
3 miles south-eastward of Castauon Bluff, is dangerous, and shou'd be given a
wide berth.

Sir Edward lielchcr thus concisely describes the harbour: — "Cardon, at
the mouth of the Port of Kealejo, is situated in lat. 12' 27' 55" N., and long.
87° 12' 15'' W. (corrected). The depth yaries from 2 to 7 fathoms, and safe
anchorage extends for several miles ; the rise and fall of tide is 1 1 ft. Docks
or slijis, therefore, mny be easily constructed, and timber is easily to be pro-
cured of any dimensions; wood, water, and immediate necessaries and
luxuries, are plentiful and cheap. The village of Kenlejo (the name signifies
a barrel or chamber organ) is about 5 miles from the sea, and its population is
about 1,0U0 or 1,200 souls. The principal occupation of the working men is
on the water, loading and unloading vessels. It has a custom-house and
ofTiccrs under a collector, comptroller, and captain of the port." Its popula-
tion now amounts to about 3,000.

Corinto, about a quarter of a mile northward of Paint Icacos, the South
point of Ascrudures Island, has taken the place of Rcalejo, there being a
custom-house here, and several other buildings. Un the opposite side of the
estoro is a rond leading to the city of Loon, the trade with which, by this new
route, hns much diminished the importance of Chinendega. Since the opening
of the railway to Leon, tliu trade of Corinto ha.s been increasing. Between
November, 1881, and November, 1882, 27 vessels called at this port for
cargoes of fustic, cedar, ice., principally for Havre and Falmouth. The mail
steamers call here twice a month, each way. Provisions are scarce and bad ;
ships' stores may be obtained from lA>on, at a high price.

Chinendega is rather a pretty town, with from 8,000 to 10,000 inhabitants,
finely situated in a rich undulating plain. It is one of the few towtis in
Central America which hod increased since the independence, and is only 3
leagues from the Port of Ueulejo, all the trade of which passes through it. —
n. a. Dunlop, 1814.

The present village of Rcalejo (for the nrme of town eannot be applied to
such a collection of hovels) contains one main street about 200 yards in Iengt4»,
with three or four openings leading te the isolated cottages in the back lanes
of huts.

The inhobitants generally present a most unhealthy appearance, and there
is scarcely a cottage without some diseased or sickly-hued person to be seen.*

* "Thin is a very tickly plnru, and I Iwliuvo hath need enough uf iin liuspitnl; fur it is
aMted so nigh the crcokM niid t!WHiii|)« thnt it is never freu from a noisome Hmoli, Tlic liuid
ubuut it is It strong yuUuw cUy, yut «h«ru tliu tuwu atauds scoiiis lu bo iiaiitl." — Damyttr,
vol. i., p. Til,

About
be trace
house, 1
At I{
•trenm,
nlongsicii
nssort to
•s necesf
■nd whit
reniainde
The wi
Ik'ieher si
««nd and
Btep romoi
Capt. di
could be pi
Island, but
Jn the E8te
■cason.

The Tslar
iron that th(
to vibrate 2]
^y the Conu
'^lie northi
of Cardon iJ
•••^land is call
(nrdoH Head
ix'inl, about
tioutli end of
the Sawyer /j
tight.— On
wooden light
""(l visible 1<J
-V reef extei
was discoveret
l.vng to tLe no
Ascradorcs Isli
«• by W. i ^v.

• " Wo ostnblig
to "eawiird fhrongl
<o tKo bpiioh."— 5,1

t l'«Hrl oynterg i
«> thtfin, and the m

PORT REALEJO. OR CORINTO.

About a mile below the toAii the ruiii8 of on old but well-built fort arc yet to
bo trnccd. Vcssela of 100 tonii have grounded at the pier of Itealejo custum-
houHe, but above that they would be left dry at low water.

At Uealcjo water of the finest quality can be procured from a powerful
■treani, into which the bout can be brought, and the casks tilled, by baling,
nlongsiue of a small wall raised to cause a highi>r level. Here the women
resort to wnah, but, by a due notice to the alcalde, this is prevented. A guide
is necessary un the first visit, after entering the creek which leads to it,
and which should only be entered at half-flood. It is necessary to pole the
remainder, the channel nut having sufficient width f tr oars.

The water from the well on the Isliuid of Aserudorcs is good ;* but Sir V,.
Belcher says, " I have a great objection to water infiltrated through marine
simd and decayed vegetable matter, and consider the chances of sickness one
step removed by obtaining it from a running stream."

Capt. de Lapelin says that it was the only place hereabout where coni
could be procured, but it was also very dear. Wood may be cut on ^serndnres
Island, but care is required against snakes. There are also numerous sliurks
in the Kstero. The anchorage here is very unhealthy and hot in the rainy
season.

The Island of Cnrdon is of volcanic origin, and the beach contains so much
iron that the snnd, which probably is washed up, caused the magnetic needle
to vibrate 21° from zero. Un the West end they found a mark, probably left
by the C'onu(it/.\

'ilio northern channel, or entrance to the port, lying around the N.W. end
of Cardon Island, has a dejith of 6 to 10 fathoms. TL > N.W. point of the
i.slaud is called Ponente J'oint, and is a detached rock. The N.E. point is
Ciirdon Head, and is 30 ft. high. The cluiiinel pas.ses round close against tiiis
point, about half a cnble northward of the liglithouse ; nil over towards the
Suutli end of Aseradores Island the water is very shallow, and a large patch,
tlie Snwyer Hank, is nearly uwash.

Light, — On Cardon Ilcnd, the N.K. point of Cardon Island, is a white
wooden lighthouse, 33 ft. high, showing a Jixed bright liyht, elevated 64 ft.,
unci visible 1<3 miles.

A reef extends 2 cables from the West point of Cardon, onu a rock of 1 1 ft.
was discovered by Commonder I'ayiiter, U.N., in 11. M.S. Gorgon, in 184i>,
lying to lue northward of the island. From it Icacos Point, the South end of
Aseradores Island, bore K. by N., Curdon Head, K. \ S., and I'oint Poreute,
S. by W. i W.

* " Wo oBtflbliahed our tide-guage on the Island of Aaoradorcs, although directly open
toaenwiird through HarM Falsi, and we went fortunate to find a good well uf water clotio
\Q\y(- bonoh."— Sir B. Btleher, vol. i., p. 28.

t I'larl oyntt^ro aro found near the South of Cardon ; but few pearls, howi'voi-, ore fouud
inthoni, und the search hua been found very unprofitublr.--Cr'. V. Hkknno; E»q.

■l

'i-^

THE COAST OP NICARAGUA.

A pilot will procerd to nea when a veflwl i* rignallrJ offCardon iHlnnil, nnd
his nerviccH arc conipulnnr}' if offered in good time.

C'ahixin Ciiannkl, that North of the ialand, is now the only navigable
i'litrnncc into the harb<iur. It in stated that there in only 23 ft. over tiie bar
in the rhnnnel, at low water, when it is not conoiderud vafc fur veoitelH drawing
over '20 ft. to enter.

The mark given for taking this ohanncl is — run toward the entrance, with
('union Head and Icacoa I'oint well open of each other, until I'onente I'oi^t
bearii S. by W., when the courae should bo altered to the south-eastward so as
to Hail cloxe round Cardon Flead, us the current seta direct on Sawyer liank.

The mark for entering the Harra Falia wii« a rl^ia on a hill inland, or about
5 milee within the entrance, kept between the two points (Cape Auxtro and
CaHtanon Itlutr), nnd bearing about N.N.E. This mark kept on led into the
])ort. but itti the depth had decreased from 5 or 6 fathoms in 1838 to 2| fathoms
in IHCJ, it .•"lioiiUl not now be attempted.

The town of Healejo in up the channel running at the back of Ascrndoret
Island, which is 8 or 9 ft. deep.

It is high water at Realejo, on full nnd change, at 3" 6" ; springs rise 1 1 ft.
At the outer nnchornge the flood runs from N.E. to K.N.K., and the ebb the
contrary, about tlirec-qunrters of a mile per hour.

'I'he anchorage outride Curdon Island is safe only during fine weather ; a
large vessel should then anchor in 6} to 8 fathoms, with the Nurth point
of the i.sland bearing Kast to E. i N., and thin id the winter anehornge for all
vesi^elR. In fine weather vessels may anchor in 4 J to 6 fathoms, sand and mud,
about 1 mile W. i N. to W. by N. from the island.

The following are the remarks made by Mr. P. C. Allan, U.N., which will
prove very serviceable : — " Vessels bound to Benlejo from the southward
should (passing about 20 miles to the eastward of Isle Cocos) steer to make
the land to the eastward of the port during the period between November and
May, as the winds prevail from the N.K., and sometimes blow with great
vioknee out of the Gulf of I'lipagnyo, causing a curn.-nt to set along shore to
the N.W.

" A range of mountains in the interior may be seen at the distance of 60
mi!e« ; the most remarkable of tliein is the Volean de Viejo, tlic highcNt part of
which, bearing N.K. by N., is the leading mark to the anchorage. The shore,
for eome distunce on each side of the entrance, is low nnd woody. Cardun
Island, which is on the right Me of the entrance, is rather higher, and itH
western end is a brown rocky eliCT. The wooden tower, or look-out house,
which is situated 5 or 6 miles inland, may be seen rising above the trees.

" In coming from the southward, nnd running along the land, sliips must
avoid a rocky reef, which lies about 7 miles K.S.E. of the anchorage off
Uealejo, on which II. M.S. Cvnuay struck. This reef was examined by the
bout« of that ship.

•• The

■re ilitta

Kround I

is very u

thrce-ci'if

'"g this r

" The f\

during om

Mr. K.

southward,

(during tht

in front, wj

<"»er. there

vations. A

iM'Hring K.\

niountain, K

I'""-'- This I

'••ust rest-mbJ

f'ni>t. Wor

""■e tlio remar

" I'he hrwi

••"liore, strongc

although this 1

will, as y„„ pj

the Kl Vi..j„ y

"Ki Viojo i

westernmost of

"" nciive volcai

ofa slice cut oH

land is low, y^.l^l

winther, and ap
of San Miguel (
" ^"ving mac
I'lclioragco/fth
'"^•'"'onis, shal
"•'li"" fn.m the sh
*""'le(l dose dow
"bsirved a break,
""•I the surf hcavi
"" "i'"''"P. which
'"'^•'"fthis„,H..„i
""' ^^'ct ep ■ ■ to

Ui)o

•i'tJelte.! tiees

""""T RRA,,E,0. OR comVTO.

' ''o two rocks that nrr .K«. *«

ir-nU between theaer/;';,:"" ''"" »»>— ."-ten. ^7 ^^ '"; '^

"• '-' ^ "J". lH.ari..g \.t; , i^ . , ''' ""^ "»*^ P«rt. and another hi^W.

.. ,. "■""°' •"»« almost constantlv «,« i • ^"ith, Motnotoinl),, ;«

::;z ""^ '• "•« *- ="'-«»» rot.::"'''.':" •"""" «'^«-- "'»

« «'-^ than u|K,„ the apparent „.„in

5(1

THE COAST OF NICARAGUA.

1 J

Inml (Asprndorcs, or Sawyer's I-«lnnil), nnd ia higher and more abrupt nt tliiB
end than ('abtafiun ; there is ultio a liiri;e grcon tree jutting out i'roiii it tu the
westward, and a higher rock close to it, which can be scon na soon (u the island
itself.

" The face of f irt. m Inland is of a reddish-brown colour, occasioned by
burning the bambo^ . which grows thickly upon it. Having nmde out Cardon
Island, the best anchorage is with lis N.W. end bearing East l| mile otf, and
El Viejo, N.H. by N., in (>J and 7 fathoms, sand and mud.

" No ship should anchor to the northward of the West end of Cardon bear-
ing E. by S . as the soundings shoal v.-ry quickly from 6 to 5 and i^ fathoms,
the rise being about 1 1 ft., and always a swell, sometimes very heavy, the ship
rolling deeply ; nor is the bottom so good when nearer the beach.

" At the commencement of the dry season, the land-winds frequently last
for several days together, blowing very fresh, and preventing ships from enter-
ing the harbour ; but, as the season advances, the land and sea-breezes become
more regular, but never strictly so. Sir E. Belcher's plan of Uealejo is very
correct, though there did not appear to me quite so much water near the East
end of the North side of Cardon as laid down on it. The entrance is narrow,
making it necessary to pass close to the tree on the West end of Cardon Island.
A pilot takes vessels in and out. When leaving the harbour, you should have
a eummanding land-wind, as the ebb sets directly acKoss the South entrance,
and very strong.

" 'ITic Calypso was a%vk'vanlly sittiatcd ; the land-winds failing us, we drifted
down towards Cardon Island, and were obliged to anchor and warp against the
tide into deeper water ; the anchor was let go in U^ fathoms, but it soon shoaled
to less than 3 fathoms.

" 'i'he proper anchorage, which is nearer the Island of Aseradorcs than the
o])])()site shore, is confined ; the bottom soft mud ; consequently, should a vessel
take the ground, no damage would occur. A large frigate would find consider-
able difficulty in swinging here.

" Itealejo is heolthy during the dry season (November to April), but subject
to fever and ague during the rainy season, which commences in May. Water
can be had, but not very good, and is very dear : the natives fill the casks out
of the river at low water, a little above Kealejo."

The conspicuous tree near the North end of Cardon Island was destroyed by
a storm May 23rd, 1876, but another tree, planted in 1872, now forms a gouil
mark.

Dampier, who was on this coast in September, 1C85, says: — " We had very
bad weather as we sailed along this coast ; seldom a day passed but we had uiie
or two violent tornadoes, and with them very frightful flashes of lightning and
claps of thunder. I never did meet with the like before nor since. These tor-
nadoes commonly come out of the N.Fl. The wind did not last long, but bliw
very fierce for the time. When the tornadoes were over we had the wind at

"■;■■'• •-•™.'. .. «-.s.,v. „„, s „ ,""" "" •■■"^■•^'■^•■■^ «

covered Mith trees «i ««t),„ms. M„„,„„^ . , ""* "I'fcar to bo

'»• . .i.;,o J: '■ "- -; -r "n !« .« rr ;;:;'';;''"''V" "• '■•«'■.

-'■'.v.ro „o. ooJ^™^-" ^ .h. h.^o..dd,i;:j ■*• »';'^'. " -il.

N.«h-«-«„„d of!! ™"" '"'j- Pinn.clo, „. „ ' " '" °" ".■•'.« that «,
'« 'h. ftmau, J,; ,1'''™ ■' ■•« in... |H..-,K.„dt,;„,t '"'""■ " "''"■»

' ■ ''' """"■■■ -"■• ™ .ec™,„ „ , ''"• '"" «i.l. .1.0 .I.KH1

'' " •» i'«c„„vo oud ,|„oT' "™*«S"». i» .il„„„ ,„, „„|. V ,

""-«. i. i. ,d» k, ,„ ' '7'' e™"»ii.v k„„„,, ,," *^ '"'■ '.- -t™,

'■"Pina, «„d A,„„„ , ' " """"•■" "f <""c-l,„,.„. r "° °' ""•■ f "If

"• ' ■* " , ., • ) I" i

.11' ' J '1 - i

»R

TIIK COAST nr NICAKAfirA, I'TC.

N1
,(

It !

till' two Iiittir. IlnnilmnH |»(>H«c»H<''t Amnimid or 'I'inrc, Sncnl»'-(;i"nn(lc «ir Vt'la'*-
rpir/, <iiu'){Ui-n>i, anil Di-iiioNiciini, while Cuiichajjuita, Mitii^uuru, Muitiu IVix-x,
anil ruiiia-Sacatu In i<iii(; to San Salvador.

Kiich of till* BtatcH cliiiinin); |mrt of its HhnrPH linvo opened n port to com-
niciee. 'I'liat of San Carlos i\v la Cnion, lelon^jiiij; to San Salvador, ii« the inimt
iinportant, not on itx own account, hut h(-cau^c■ of ilM proximity to the city of
San Miguel, which at the time of il^ fnirH (in February and Nuvcniber) iit tliu
nioHt eommereial place in CentrnI America.

The port for llondnraH, called -V/;! I.itieuzn, Ih on the river Nncnomo; it will
oidv receive vcj^wIs of very lijjlil draught, ntiil '\» bcltlom visited exrept l>j
bongoH. Itut the Honduras (iovernineiit, at the instance of M. Dardano, the
Sardinian Conhul, Iuih declared the anchorage at Atnapalu on Tigre iMland to
be a free i>orl, with the ho|!e of attracting hither, from it» centriil position and
eai)abilitien, an entrepot of the eonuucrce of the gnlf.

Nicaragua has its port of entry on the left bank of the F.Htcro Kenl to the
S.W. It is nunly a post occupied by u few soldierH ut I'laya (irande. It is
rarely visited, and (|uite unimportant.

The inter-oci'anic railway across the .Sfato of Honduras was proposed to tor
iniii:it«' on the northern shore of the gulf. It starts from I'uerto Caballos or
Cintez. in the Hay of Honduras to the northward, running nearly dm* SmUh to
I'liMta Iti'iniiliiia on Sacatc-Orande, or some other [)oint in the (iiilfof l-'onseca
The total liii!;th between the anchorage in each port would be I IN geographical
miles. It was surveyed in iH.'iS by Colonel Trautwine, and verified by Colonel
Stanton, U.K. It was proposed also to extend the southern terniinus to Tigre
Island by a pile bridge I \ mile long. Either this or the main land fronting;
the Hay of Chisnuiyo, or else the Island of (iaiov;i or I,a I'nion, might be a
;■ rminus. The railway has since been constructed from I'uerto Cortes as I'u
ua Sun I'edro. a distance of 37 miles.

Mr. ¥.. Vt. Sipiier says : — The entrance to the bay. from the sea, is about lit
mill's wide between the great volcanos of Coneh:i;^ua Ji,'-^^ ft- in height) anil
Coseguinn .'l,(SOlt ft.), which stand like giant warders upon either hand, anil
c<m»liliitc unmisUikeable landmarks for tlie mariner. On a line across tlii»
entrance, and about ei[ui-distant from each other, lie the two considerablv
islands of Conehaguita and Maiiguera, and a collection of high rocks, eiiliol
his /■'uni/Ziinrs, which, while they serve to protect the b^iy from the swell of the
sea, divide the entiMiice into four distinct channels, eacli of snilicient depth nf
water to admit the passago of the largest vessels. These islands arc high,
Concbaguita being not less than .')<)() ft., and Mangiiera about (lOdft. in heiglii
They were formeily inhabited by Indians, who withdrew to the main land t.i
avoid the oppressions of the freebooters during the period of their a8ccnilaiii.'y
in the South Sea. Moth of these islands belong to San Salvador.

Of the islands previously named, N'elasipu'z, or Sacatcgrande, is consiilcralih
the largest, and, in common with the others, i.>iof volcanic origin. It i« it iiiilu

'""g. by

"'■/leaks (

"Jit/iwan

'"•••se. nH

''••'■••r. (iiaJi

"" ♦•«■]/ „, ,

"'I' 'iidiaris
"HoriJ j,„„,,

•'.<"'» Imve 1
yitr, nnd o,,

''"• nortlierii
f'Med bv ,,;^,

""■ «"»se I'll V,

•''■"•"«o.(iran,Ji

"'"' »»einal be;

''""Hd with tl,

"" "'^' M-n.„n „,

""• fe'round are

f'"' '-'lins cense

""•■'".» of a brilli

"'■p-'-Jen frrnin, ^

'"■'»*■•* it brow„p,j

'"'■'■ "^'"-.1 „nd y

''''i' 'sinn.l of a

from which it is SI

''""■"••'H.eof^,,,,.,

;''■■•"""■'• ft-'-ti/e. am
" '" fr'"*,'".! .by „ „,
'■'"• ''•land of -i',^,
''■'.'•• Jti^N about 10
'"""■'"•'Vhtofo.V)

f ;'•■»•" forms LJaek.
'"'^'•••'^"t upon the

^^•"'■""••ejl.attlie
,"'"' '''^'-'T nnchorn...

""^'"'"'•theshore°*

CoBe^uina Point is

!'■•''"""' volcano of
;V'^ '''■ 't -ns an

^"^^ <'nv nv ,ovsF:r.v.

'•"•'" 'mvc- hovn .„.., ""'"'••^'•a of cattl... n,ul i, ■ '^'"""y "'"Jx-s

> ' .-.■.: :t:' ;r"' '"^ ^"'""" - '^ Zc ::"'V'- - ->' -^

""• "•""'- -< ..,.e. of f ^ ""'"""'• "'^•'•" ■•"•'• run,.,-,. ■ "■ '"""' "'' "•«

■'^■"•"•-^•n.„.l,.„,,,..„ ' ' • ""- eo„M„nt Mr,.„„,s. ',: ""^ '"""■'•

'•'""'-' -th tic,, '"' '''^" -""-"ee„K.„. o ; ""•"' "^ -•-.,.„.,,„„

r- '--;:;;;:;';;;;;'' >-'.'-.::: t;:^:;;:'"^''---'"^

f'^' '•"•n^. m,Hc. ,„, 1 , "" ''"'^■'•"•''"l lobe „f I, ""jxrilirs of

"^'^••'"- .rain. .,,':,:. ^'" « ' r '^'-"^ opp.,r „^ ^^^ ^;";":< -•<• .i

■" fm, ,;::;■; 7" "■«- .>■. •.•„,. 1 ,: .7-, , " ,„„,„•

C«p.iM Pota, i. ,^. g ,, . ' "'""" « 'able',

-™.;.™^noor,.4:;r:;:'r::v'7-; "-• -...

. * "• 't WfisniitiVntlv ,..,11 I,. . ^^ ' '" 'nt- 12" '.« v .

'"" ' - -™";:'::::v,--

'"'* '•'" I-'J""<Jicu/a,lv l„ ,,

ft 1 ' -. . ' r S'

'jf*'

lit

'it' 'I

. I-

U^'^ - ':;**: ^\'" ill

r,n

THE (OAST <»F NICARAfa'A, VJC.

'■h

tlc'pth of 200 ft., when tlio bottom of the prntt-r bfcomcH llattiNli, with a nmnll
traiiN]iiirc-iit lake in itH ci-iitre. Ono of tl;o most remarkable volcanic eruption!*
(in ncoril orrurrt'd from it. It commcnre'l on the 'JUth of January, IH^ri, and
it« lirMt evidence waw. an nren at TiO niileit distance, an immentc column of smoke
and flame rniitfed from the erater. At M a.m. n very heavy nhock of an earth-
(|uake viixH felt ; the ni^ht following;, five NhoekN ; ond during the 2lHt, ''"veral
shoekM, nceompnnicd with the noise resiMnblin^ diHtant thunder, or " rftumfw,"
aH the Spaniards call it. On the 'i'2iu\, the ((round wns covered with fire, ashes,
or Hand, durknes.s and the ro.-ir of the volcano prevailing;. On the 2:ird, the fail
uf aMlu-H and noise inerensed till it became darker than the darkcNt ni)(ht, and
continued ho till •') p.m., when it cleared a little; evorythin|; was covered ihiekly
with the volcanic dust, the noise, and odour of sulphur, bein^ overpowering.
ItH devastating effectx were continue<l for many weeks after.

In proof of its trcmendotis effects, the eruption shook all the windows and
doors in the city of (iuatemala, which is between 2' and 250 statute miles
iliHtant, most forcibly. This was occasioned, not by the "^arthciuake, but by the
exploNions transmitted thro\igli the air; this »vnH cm January 2;}rd, IH'Mi. Hut
the distance to which the thunder of the ..ilcano was heard and the <iust felt,
was very much greater than this. According to the official account, these were
iMith felt and heard at Ciudad Real de Chiapas, a distance of 120 geographic
miles. It occasioned very greot alarm at Tonala ond other pnkU in Soconusco,
450 miles to the N.W. ; and on the coast about Mcrida, in Yucatan, 800 miles
off. Those to the southward were not slight evidences, but the air was
darkened, and the noises ♦crrific, an<l the sulphureous vapours most suffocating.
The Hocks peri.shed from the pastures being destroyed by the dust, ami
great sickness ensued among all from the water bcconiing tainted from tiii.'
same cause.

In the "Jamaica Watchman" (January 21», 1835), too, it is announced that
nil the ships about that island were covered with the fine volcanic dust, whieli
continued to fall for some days, covering everything.

(f. r. Skinner, Ks(|., left the city of (iuatemala and Istapa in the middle nf
March, i)a8sing large banks of floating pumice during the passage to Conchagiii
When at many leagues distance, they wci-e almost suffocated by the sulphureous
vapour and the volcanic dust, which ob.scured the sky, and settled on cvciv
thiiii,'. caiisiiig most violent burning pains in the eyes.

PORT LA UNION i> an inner harbour or bay of the Gulf of Fonscca, mid
lies on the North side, around Chiriciuin or f'hicarcnc Point, e.xteiuling 8 (ir "
miles ii'Iaiid, but the upper and N.K. sides arc .shallow and uncovered at low
water. This contracts the limits of the port within much smaller dimension.-
On these flats oysters are very abundant.

The town, formerly known as Sun Carlos, or Conchngua, is situated on thi
Boulh side of the port. The site is badly cho>en. as the didiculty in landiii;;!-
ut all tunes great, and at low water nearly impossible; d\ning strong noitlniv|

.J!

«
I

: ■ :H

' -,' i%

,,^^:1

. ' ■■ .1 .

'«*^'' *

1'"

'i t

• • f

•f

winds tlic

)it)i<iin^ j>T,

"voiilctJ. i

inunioatian,

'J'Jif nptiml

is situated n

iliiKoIv over

'''"•"»kIi the

Light. -.t

fnmi fho (■„„

't'proceodi

"ti'or direct f,

i'v.iid the sho

the Hood runs

''"'"g so. guid

'•lii'uld not eoi:

I'l'iiit. on the I

« liich is the tu

'iistaiit. Heforo

within l',)int C]

s!«>j)es of the An

you will linro t

branc-hes to the

Jivorginjj f„ the

"•lilt of knowini;

Having douhlf

•^IHMis. the North

« iter. A large s

f^aoate bearing tV

"•■Is of les,s druugh

•'Ixive n;:chorago, 1

I'^'i'it (^hiri,,uin. ,

''■"'"'"IS bottom of

"'oasei.fthe Nort;

"'■'"" tons usually

"" it is not intend

ymi in;.y stay in the

»-''iita Mid Punta .Sac

''''•'I'iiig as niueh as

*"^"''^'th„ftheeurre
I'll' >-o tide. Vous

''i'^' tides aie regu

,"7,"' ""-"-' -„o,H.r,.„, , ■ '"'"'•■* i-N'-o-V.

^*'"'"' I'o.nt rhK.r ^ "'' '"■ ""-' ^"'"'•th point of ( ? "'" "' ' * ""'«

vou will have ' """• ''"''^" ''^"P"' i-'-pre-.tor H '^" '"""^"'^ ''> 'he

■ , """ 'he a.ivaiitaiTo of th.. « , ^ "'"" "*^'^''i- the islui,!- ^

I'ov.njf douhlod Point Chir" •
'^r^-'"'. the North part of whi.h ,"„"''"■'•■ '" "''''-^ha„„ol „,. ,,, .

" " "* '"'t intended to stnv I u '"■

'" '"'"^ '"^•••^^K"!'"'. their vd.vitv,...,

"> '-woiy attuiuin,, to .' k„ „

^ - l^»"ts. except be-

,U'

iT.>.

,«N'

^.1$

. ». .«

■;,'',. '. "I tif- ; r.|K

r4 '

uv n --Ml:

*r> '

■itiMMWm WP

(iJ THE COAST OF NICARAGUA, KTC.

Iwecn Point Chiriqiiin and the Negritos. It is high water, on full and change,
at 3'' 15"' ; range at springs, 12 ft. 2 in. ; at neaps, 8 ft. lU in.

The mud bank in front of the landing ploce dries out more than a cable's
length ut low water ; it is better then to use the native canoes to pass through
tliis liquid mud. A jetty has been constructed to avoid this incouveuience.

If proceeding to Amapnla (or Ti(/re Ishind), steer for the steep-sided chan-
nel between Munguera and Conchaguita, closing in with the N.W. point of the
first of these islands to within 3 or 4 cables' lengths, so as to bring the second
hummock of the summit of Tigre Island, or rather the part where the " sacate "*
joins the trees, to bear about N.K. i E., the depth being from 1 1 to 13 fathoms.
As soon as that bearing comes on, steer for it, and the lead will show a bunk
of sand and mud, the depth on which gradually decreases from V3 to 4 or 4 J
fathoms, which is the shoalcst part of the channel. As soon as Caracolito, a
low islet, covered with bushes and scattered trees, bears N.N.E., and clears
wi'll from Tigre Island, tliough it is connected with it at low water, steer
N.N.E. i E. towards a small cabin or rancho, on the sandy beach to tiie right
of Caracolito, approaching it till it bears N. by E., and then pa.s.s around it at
the distance of 2 cables' lengths from the white house, and then the harbour
will come in view, when you may anchor at 4 cables' lengths off the sandy
beach, the flagstaff bearing S. 32' E., or a white house witli threi' doorways
S. 39" E., being then in 8 fathoms, green mud, and of excellent (juality for
holding. The shoal lying 4 cables N.W. of the N.W. point of Tigre Island is
marked by a white buoy.

Amapala is more frequented than La I'nion, and provisions ore more easily
obtained here. Water is procured from the wells, which are private i)ro])erty.
ludigo, cattle, hides, and wood, arc the principal exports ; ligliteps are used
for landing or loading cargo, and it is j)roposed to construct a pier. The climate
is generally healthy, and the population is about 1,100.

The Estero Heal, in the southern part of the gulf, ajjpears to be of con-
siderable importance, as Sir E. Uelcher took the Slurlitiff up it for 30 miles
from its mouth, and might easily have gone farther, but the prevailing strong
winds rendered it too toilsome a journey at this period ; he considered that it
might be ascended much higher — the natives say GO miles — by vessels drawing
10 ft., but steamers would be absolutely necessary to tow against the prcvaleut
breezes.

According to Sir Edward Belcher's opinion, this unquestionably is the most

• Siicato is tlio term applibd to thosf^ raro spaccB, bare of trcca, but covered with a spncics
of long grass, culk-d sacute, whicli, dnriiij^ the; dry season, is of thi; colour ipf the ripo corn
fiold< of Kiiropo. Thin grass U burned just buforo t'lo riiiny season commoncos, and then
has a rod and sterilo upi'uaranco. Soon after tLu tirst ruius, it assumes u paK> grocn, wljich
looks like a plunlatiun ot biigui -cuuod.

"•''■.inf/i

Mr. O

ofLongoi
^'••'le/i.igi
f^'ipt. V
'•'* -'"'WsabJ
•''"> to Cot
'" "le mor,
"I'xt day „/■

''"''c Gulf
^><'lchev's pi,

'"" '«'ce, ta

'■'"' tides are

'^ ''•'"• Abou

""■ "'fi^t, nnd

"'^' ''"••>'" on th,

/^' '■" co„„-n

'^'"'"''- to „„;

"" '''•^ coast, it

"iikIs.

'; '."'"'"•^. and ,v,

,.^;';-^""feo„ta,-

•' •^"•"•"" run,,,-,.

„;;^'''""'.«.nano,or

"•-for,. iT " '"1
.."^^"^•^''Otofioo,

I ■"" '"'Hnds of r

(53

. f^-'I't- Wortl. snys :-r oaV n «'»b«rcadora to tho

'^ "'Ivisable to stoor obJ V"^ """'^J" f'"- Co„oh..,„ • .

'" ''^ '»-„.„,, ,„, ,^. ; ;" '- '-t si.,e of the Oulf of C 'T "''"'^'^ ^"'^^ «
"-; ''"y afte. noon. '""""^- -"^^^^ this point l.- te in T, '■''"^'""- ^''•'"W

..,«b. =". "'« aca l,,ee«, t,; „.„ "'^ "'•"'■l-. »«.! to arrive

. • "■« ^«^;.». o„ o„ „,,, . . ■""■' ""■'' '"""B <»..-!

•'11' »'.«h f„,oc. ,|,a, ,,„. '! «»'"» 'o f«„ol,aK,n ,!,„ , ,

"7« "-« rrincipally from fh«T "'^" ''•'" '^ ^'"ch c!ll 7 ""^ "'"'"'^^t borond

f" '■"'-'".' tho ,.„f from tl " ' ■ ""• ^""'■J'- *e. ' """" (^-•"""er ,..

II. "

(••}'

' ■i?T''r '! '■■' . ■ »' i • ¥ «f

![ >

■^>i.l. '

? W

Ill

THE COAST OF SAN SALVADOR.

Jm Phtyeta (fr C/iiijutrtn, which is just to the soiithwnid of Chiquirin Point.
You can anchor close in. The best way to water is by rafting, the water in
the bay being quite smooth, you can pull well to windward, and alongside
to the eddy, and then across the tides to the ship. We filled 2C times a day,
although badly off for boats, having only a 28-foot pinnace. There is a surf
on this beach, sometimes heavy, but seldom enough to prevent landing. Mer-
chant vessels anchor so close, ns to be able to hand their casks off with long
lines. When we first anchored in this point M-e tried, through ignovcncc, to
water in the IMaya de Chicarcnc, but we found the surf so heavy, the water so
bad, and such great difficulty from the tides, that we coulil not get more than
1 8 tons a day, and that after great labour to the men, and much damage to the
casks and boats.

Wood is not so cheap here as at Realejo ; beef about the same price, also
washing ; but stock is dear, and difficult to get in any quantity ; turtle is
plentiful, about 2 reals for one weighing 60 lbs. Sir Kdward Belcher's plan
clearly shows the only dangers in entering Port La Union ; they are visible at
low water, the only difficulty is the very great strength of tide ; it is quite a
sluice round Chicarenc Poiut.

4. SAN SALVADOR.

San Salvador is the smallest of the Central American Republics, but rela-
tively to its extent, it is the most densely populated, and has the most industry
and commerce. It extends from the North side of the Gulf of Fonseca to
the Uio Paza or Pazaca, about 1 60 miles to the westward, which separates it
from the Republic of Guatemala. Its population is estimated to amount to
about 550,000. It is an agricultural state, and the princijial products are
coffee (the chief article), indigo, sugar, and tobacco. Indigo, produced from
an indigenous plant, the jiquilite, is easily raised and manufactured. The
coast presents, generally, a belt of low, rich alluvial land, varying in width
from 10 to 20 miles, liehind this, and presenting an abrupt face seaward, is a
range of mountains, or rather a broad plateau, having an average elevation of
about 2.000 ft. Along this plateau there are not less than eleven great
voleanos, running in nearly a direct line from S.E. to N.W., coincident with
the great line of volcanic action, which is traceable from Mexico to Chile. Its
principal stream is the Lempa, which would be navigable for small steamers
for probably 100 miles, but it is hopelessly barred from seaward. The chief
ports, if such they can be called, with the excej)tion of the fine harbour of La
Union, are Acajutla and Libcrtiid, mere oytcn roadsteads, only dcrivin;; their
existence and importance from their proximity to the respective cities of Sau ,

S'i/vflfJ,

Ueh

•■"•<))•(/,.,;

""'.vo/',-,

hi ^r(.,u
"'■■'" t/,o.S

ie.s/),.er,.,i^ ,

"'»'>ve-in(.„t

^iinmvr to ,

^'''«' ooin,!,

""■ /"•0,/ucts ,

^''"'"f'% and i

'" '-'ci. voar •

.""•""'• hks,
'" ''''-' count

;'""^''" Amerie.
^•"'" '""n^Wand, ,
''''"'"-'« Shon f„

■'7' "- ^o,i,,,

T: ^''-% eott
y -'-/o of e

-'""•««« doiJars ■
-•"•".ted to 1,20,^
'■i/iie of fl.;

^"ast, as fj.,

^''■^'''- »o ,,;! y.

' '"• '■v/>Iored. .

LV„.,,"'^"-^ee.so,J

..'"" ''^"ci'cs „,,,,'
•'o/Y/ /J ■- ' '

^ ''• - „„eh,,„ye.s, are

only of interest.
- "'"SO of tl , '■""'•^"^•^ «f Salvador hare . ■

"'•"' t'-ose of , ;r'""'^"^-^ «f Salvador have . ■

.^ -'"''. -Kl San M.V, J- .;, •• '"—pal fair. „re ij ^ p, '^' ^"'"'"■''■"^ "f

"' "'e country N '*'''*'*' ""^ '« ftr ti, ' ""^ ''•'^' o^ the s,,„ >

^'-«' A.„e.:„ ,';;-- "^"3- and ,e r^" 'r--' of an, t

P-'"et«give„forthe ":, ""'"' "'"' ^'"^ fnited S .? ' ''""'^t. as n-e], „,
'•"f^-e and indi.0 a\ \ '"" '" ''-^ forei.^ne s „ ^'^'"^ ^''o onlj

'" '««^ the value of t ,1 " "" ''''''''^^-'^- '" ""'"'^^'•^ o(

l""ts, chiefly cottnn , P*""*'' aniouuted to ", i m .

"'"'■•••W the rc°r """«'"»•■• v„v„„, " "."'"*'c.,o„ ,„ „,^

""■' '■' «i'Wo '::'■: "■'• '■ - »■ ».;:,:;"'■;'""''•■■■■ - c

' "•tension such n .„.

■'^.(i-' rife

'Si',

•^.

;|';

'j ^

s -

>f ■

J4 ' •• *A

4*'

I ■

ill!

•iTiM-iiri

mnm

:f!ilf^

:l':'l

TIIK rOART OF SAN SALVADOR.

mirngp, thnt it apponrs an if the sni f bronkn much fartlier o(T than it docs in
reiility. 'llie sounding!) off this shore arc regular, and increnKc gradually
toward the offing, contrary to the opinion that the bottom is very uneven and
dangerous to navigate by the load ; hut it may be affirmed that a vcnscI will
be in safety anywhere between Fonseca and Point Uenicdios, so long as she is
in more than H cr 10 fathoms, and, in a ealm, she niigiit anchor, as the currents
are variable. A more general remark may alfo bo made, that on the whole
coast of Central America, the lead will be a good guide, and that the depth
above stilted is generally safe, except in some places, where it would be too
near the land, and 1.5 to 18 fathoms is a better depth to maintain.

PORT JIQUILISCO, or (iiquilinvo, or del Tihmfo dc los Libres (according
to Colonel Don Juan Galindo, an Englishman in the service of the Uepublic),
is about 32 miles beyond Candadillo, the N.W. entrance point of Conchagua.

In 1798, the Koyal Consulate of Guatemala ordered Don Vinconte Uodriguej!
del Camino to survey it. He states that it was then named the limj of San
Sa/vador de Jiquilisco (a species of plant, the indiyofera disperma), anciently
called the Bay of Fonseca. May this account for the double name applied to
Conchagua to the S.E. ? The name given to it by Colonel Galindo evidently
has reference to one of those " triumphs," so common and so ephemeral in
these distracted countries. We hnve therefore preferred the old name.

According to the old plan of Don V. del Camino, the anchorage is good and
well sheltered. Like Tehuantepec, the coast of the main land appears to he
fronted by a long narrow island, perhaps formed by the tremendous surf
raised by the prevalent winds. Shoals extend about 4 miles seaward of Arena
Island. A dangerous shoal is marked on some charts as lying 9 or 10 miles
off the coast, S.S.W. of Jiquilisco ; M. Lnpelin searched for it without success
in IS.'i'i, and the commander of the Vaudreuil could not find it in 1872, and it
is considered not to exist.

Commander IMiilip, U.S.S. Tuscarora, has examined the shoal extending off
the entrance of the port in the form of a horse-shoe from side to side. At
high water, in calm weather, the bar is smooth, but breaks at other times.
Just outside the breakers San Miguel volcano bore N. 26" K., San Vicente
volcano, N. 43"' W., and Pan Salvador volcano, N. 55° W. Mariners are
cauticmcd not to approach the .shore w ithin G miles, when navigating in this
viei.,ity.

" The port, or rather the creek or ' Estero ' of Jiquilisco, has not the same
appearance as the rivers, &c., to the West ; instead of mangroves, the shore ij
marked by bushes of a ji.'dc green or muddy colour, or else without leaves.
'ihe volcano of San Miguel, Vc\ii on the bearing of N. 27" E., will lend on to
the hoi-8e-.'hoe breakers. At IJ mile off the water is much discoloured, bul
the dei)th is 7J and 8.J fathoms, fine grey Si,..d, which would not hold well; a 1
better anchorage would be IJ mile West of the bar, where there is an j
adhesive mud, and black sandy bottom. We were not fortunate enough toj

find the

"The
fnfer the
H'lore It (
is 14^ {^

/"wsib/e 01

"■'"cii is bi

«"'"" »iioah

"■'" i>"'nt oi

"'•''cs or rip

'"•n'cs i„ t,,^

'""« at tJ,e ra

""•■• «n the bar

Ledcnie). ,1,

""" '«'o chann

Tie fixvEjj

"'^' -''"•^■'- *.«n 3i
ca.,t,«u8 of hi, ,,

^;/-'>" Santo, „,
"'^"•^'"•Projeetioi

;''^'%ue]orme<

'^''' ^e cannot b
•inion'f th^

fl7

7 °» "- w, «„p. r^ "» '"""".i WW, ,„o J ''- '■"'•• -"i »...o„-

vw. ..,„„, .„, .„*',■ <.'--» pan „,„ .*, :i7,r "' "■'-•

•f »»l. a pr„j>ctio„. ° ™-<-1uo„cc of u,, j„„„^ "• ""» "footed.

'"S «• 1.0 l.Vo,h on /;„;'''"'. ~ «» .0 go. „.„ ;j'.°" «" «>l.or .,Jo

'T'- "^ -■<" !^ ^* '"■" ^" •'----::::;; rr- '•« '•

■^"'"ng the many undevol . ^o ^^kewise

^- « first value. Al" ^ "'' ^"""''''^^ «f San Salva ,

;^P;neii>aI tWbutanes. C" ^/.^''^ «- ^-I-.andt.rva^f ^" ""^ -*
^"'"^- h Imd Ion., been ^"°" '<^« ""'es Jon^ ,.„ """^'^ «^«onie of

,r;'«^-'^'-np;. jr;^^ --;;^tions. Coal ::tr t^ "^^' "^-

^^"'"''■"rdia.and large bd V ''"P" '™'» ^Ik coast a, ^' ^'^"'^^ "^

'li

■f.

■ • t .s »' ' '

■hla

www

TIIK COAST OF SAN SALVADOK.

•' !

f I 1

wliut 18 kiioM-n a» pit eoul ; similar coal is cxtcusively useJ in Gorninny
for various iiiiiK-ral purposes.

The entrance to the Lenipa Kiver is similar in character to the others West
of it. It is known by some larf^^e trees with white trunks, with the tops almost
bare, risinfj; above the lighter coloured and lower wood, simi' ir to the copse-
wood of northern countries. It is found wlien comin{; from the East or South,
by bringing San Salvador to bear N. 50'' W., or San X'icentc N. IG" W., and
then running on either of these bearings will bring up to the bar. Coming
from the westward, San Miguel bearing N. (10" K., will bring you uj) to it.
The entrance is about half u mile broad, barred by breakers, which reach a
mile olf, and which the natives say cannot be taken. It is quite unimportant,
and there are are only a few fishing huts on its left bank.

Above this port and the mouth of the river the I'okan de San Miyuel rises.
It in G,822 ft. higii, and is u very con.-picuous object in the ofKng, and will
serve well to point out the locality-
La Concordia, a '• port " of late growth, for the town of Pan Vicente, is at
the mouth of the River Jiboa, 11 miles W.N.W. of that of the Lempa. This
river drains the Lake of Itopango, but we have no particulars of the au-
chiu'age, and its jiosition appears to be in doubt, the survey by Lieut. Chambiu
placing it several miles farther to the westward.

PORT LIBERTAD i.s about 83 miles to the W.N.W. of the Lempa. It
was visited by tl.M.S. Sulphur, and wc give her commander's observations
on it.

One would naturally e.xpect from this title that something pretending to a
bay, or deep indentation at least, would have warranted the appellation. 15ut
a straight sandy beach, between two slightly projecting ledges of rock about a
mile asunder, forms the jilaza of Libertad. It is har and interest only that
have made it a port.

At times the bay is smooth, but the substratum at the beach being of largo
smooth boulders of compact basalt, the instant the surf rises they are freed
from their sandy covering, and a dangerous moving strong bottom left, oii
which the boat grounded. We were informed that it is generally violent fur
three or four days, at full and change, which corresponded to the time of our
visits.

The rollers which set in on this beach curl and break at times in 4 or .'i
fathoms, at least a quarter of a mile off. Those within, which are the uubt
dangerous, are caused by tiie offset or elHux. The sand beach is eonijiosi'd
chiefly of magnetic iron sand, the dried superstratum, about one inch in thick-
ness, caking in flakes free from admixture.

The anchorage is uneasy, and I should think unsafe, and should be avoided
near the full moon. Sudden rollers come in, which are apt to snap chain
gables, unless with a long range.

Toultry, L

Uulloeks can

The port, u

when Capt. d

custom-house

returning by r

the volcano of

Am iron pier

tlie telegraph ,

wliite building

When at 8 ;

bottom, wliieh

miles off you wi

and with whitev

to the West ; w

some huts. Wh

^Vatcr may be |

wliieh falls into i

dt-'Lapelin adds

July and October,

^\■hen the mail

shown from a lant

bearing between A

San Salvador, i
are connected by
iSS-f, to construct
t>an Salvador.

Sir Edward Bel
BeaJcjo, the road
prettily situated oj]
niouiitains rise, th|
spicuous.* San

^' '.[-i

PORT LIBEKTAI).

6«

Poultry, bullucks, kc, uru tu bo obtained, but the prices are exorbitant.
Uulloekti can only be embarked in one of their bongoes.

I'he port, after Commander Belcher'ti visit, was for a long time deserted, but
when Cupt. do Laprlia came here in 1U52, it had bei'n reinstuteil, and the
custom-house stores rebuilt. A launch was also maintained, going out and
returning by means of the andarivel. The mark for approaching it is to bring
the volcano of San Salvador to bear N. ^ E., which bearing will lead up to it.
An iron pier has lately been conBtructed for landing and shipping cargo, and
tlie telcgrnph cable connecting Mexico with Panama has u station here. A
white building on the extremity of the mole is conspicuous fron> sea.

When at 8 miles off the depth will be about 25 or 27 fathoms, muddy
bottom, which depth will gradually decrease towards the shore. At about G
miles off you will begin to make out the large storehouse covered with tiles,
und with whitewashed walls, having a flagstatl' to the East, and u white house
to the West ; when nearer you will see the tops of the palmetto trees and
some huts. When a mile off the place the depth will be about 8i fathoms.
AN'iiter may bo got, though with difficulty, from the little liiver Quelama,
which falls into the sea at less than half a mile West of the village. C'apt.
(le La])elin adds his opinion that this place should not be frequented between
July and October.

When the mail steamers are expected a ^xetl hriyht light, visible 6 miles, is
shown from a lantern at the custom-house. It is obscured by u building when
bearing between N. by W. and N.W. by N. J X.

San Salvador, the capital of the republic, is to the N.E. of Libertad. They
are connected by a cart road 26 miles long, but a company was formed, in
1»84, to construct a railway between 'hem, 33 miles in length, by way of New
Sim Salvador.

Sir Edward Belcher visited this city in April, 1837, going thither from
Kcalejo, the road being through a very mountainous tract. 'I he town is very
prt'ttily situated on a level plain, or amphitheatre, from which several lofty
niuuntuins rise, that of the Volcan de Son Salvador being the most con-
bpicuuus.* San Salvador was the capital city of the confederation of the

• When we first saw the mountain of Guatemala, wo wore, by judgment, 2o IcHgiiui' dis-
tance Irum it. As we came nearer the land it appeared higher and idiiiner, yet wu saw no
tin, liul 11 little smoke proceeding from it. The land by the sea was of a good height, yet
kt luw ill comparison with that in the country. The Sfa, for about 8 or 10 loHgues from
liic aliorc, was full of floating trees or drift wood, as it is callud (of which I have seen a
great doal, but nowhere so much as here), and pumice atones floating, which prubably are
thrown out of the burning mountains, and witsLud down to tho bLore by the ruins, which
ue very violent and frequent in this country.

The Volcan of Guatemala is a very high ninniitiiin with two poaks or heads, appearing
like two Hugar-loiives. It often belches foith flames of fire and smoke from U-twecii the
t»" h.■ilJ^^, and this, us the iSpaniards do report, happens chiefly in tempestuous wculher. —
htiitptu; vol. 1., pp. 22o — 230.

\*vm^

mt'm

?•■ ji-iw'i -t' '\ "4.1 1 hm n

iii,-

THE rOAST OF SAX SAI-VADOR.

i '

8tnti>s of Central Aiiki u-n. iin<l, in iniitntion of \Vii»liinf;ton in tlio I'niti'il Stntos,
it hnd a I'Vdirnl (li»trict attMi^ncd to it, which included the I'ort uf Lihcrtiid,
but thin confc(h>riitiun wiim dixNolvod in IHU'J. It wiih ii very hiindHume city, of
2<'>,UUU inhahitiintH, witli fine churchcHiind public building'* : but on A])ril Kitli,
IHUi, at 10 niiniitcH to eleven, such a terrific enrthtjuake occurred almost with-
out the hlightest warniu};, tiuit in ten seconds the entire city was thrown into
heaps of ruins. It was then nearly deserted, and the seat of government was
removed to ('()jutepe<|ue, about 1'2 leagues di8tant. It wiui again entirely
destroyed in }H~'.i, but is now rebuilt.

The COAST between Liln-rtad and Acajutla is very uneven, covered with
trees, or witli reddish-coloured barren imtehes. On the sea it forms elilfs, bor-
dered by n beach of shingle. It is, however, suid to be quite clean, und may
be approached within view of the breakers.

A district along the coast, between the Ports of I.ibertad and Acajutla, is
called the ('imta ilvl lialsamo ; it produces an article known eonimercially as
the lialsam of Peru, from itn having been sent to Lima for e.\i>ort tu Kurope.
It is collected solely by the aboriginal Indians wlio inhabit that district. About
20,000 lbs. were obtained for iiiniual export.

Point Remedios has a reef otf it, said to extend in a south-westerly direction
nearly i) miles, but later obsirvations state that it extends loss than 2 miles in
a southerly direction In fine weather this reef scarcely shows it-self, there-
fore more caution is necessary in rounding it. Ve.s.sels of alight draught have
fr«iuently passed safely over the outer jiartof it unknowingly, whereas fcveral
others, less fortunate, have been brought up by detached rocks, and a total
wreck has ensued. The point is long and low, thickly wooded, and from the
eastward easily recognized.

PORT ACAJUTLA, or Sonsonate Boads, is the next attainable point
beyond Libcrtad. The principal town of this port is Sonsonate,* which is
situated about 15 miles inland, and is connected with it by a railway, opened
in July, 1 882, and now being extended to the important town of Santa Ana, ia
the interior. There is also a small town of about (iOO inhabitants on the roast,
which gives its name to the port ; the houses are of various descriptions, most
of them of the meanest order ; they are constructed of bamboo open work at

• Sonsonnto, or Zonzonat*', derives its name from the Uio Grande, formed by almost in-
numurablu springB of wiitur, to which tho uumu uf Zezentiall ia giveu, a Muxiiaa woril
meaninif 40U spriii)^, corrupted to Zunzonate.

"•Santisnima Trinidad de Zuuzonate is hituHted on the Rio Grnnde. It i.saplensnnt town,
although the climute is very hot. E-ich of throe monastic ordun have (had) a convent hero.
The church is vory spacious, besides which there are three oratorios. On the opposite eido
of the river it has a suburb CHlIcd thn Uarrio dul Aiigbl, on which thore is a chapoi. The
communication botwfon the town and tlio suburb is by monns of a stone bridge. In llio
vicinity are three smull Indian vilhi^u:i, jcc." — Dun Dum. Juunua : TianslutiuH by Mr. Haiti/,
p. 28.

^f^«T ACAJITLA

Ok- M<?o«. nm] tho top is n,l,.|v tl, t h ^

;:"'• 7"'^ '•""'•••-- to the he„;'";;:;;!;.i";'';; ''':•'•''• «•'''"•' '""- ;. ,...,,.
-• - ;'f " i^ --te., t,.e .iwir :7;;'- ^'•--'^ 0^- ..,., s,.,:;:

\i'sm'Ih lonvitin- Kurono in \
roast ^o vessel .houKl arrive latt than t m ''"" '''■'*""'''""<i..K on .ho

"';;.'-».- fn.,„ ven,„n.., out' ""'^ '" "^'"" ^''^' --«t. .hieh prev.;

"h. port consists of an op-n b.v nf , • .
'"7"""T- ^••.- is anehora^:, :; ;^':^ '^ '''"''''- '' ^'^ —
'" ;;•" 7 to 1.5 fiuhon. water ; the bott !„:'" "" ''''"''''' '"'••"" »'»' «''<-
(.thoms.^^^ «houkl not und.or i„ |,,, ^han 12

"' '' ''"'•-"'■-l>'""'L"u !u„',t.t' TJ' ""''"' '""•''"^' '■" «''•]-' boats

;— ^-^.os. Which are ]<e; t ^7'"^ '''' •"^'- - i" C

V -.corner of the hay. near where the ',«■''"'"''''-' t'—fin t,,
;; '"^ -ally pun in in their own l^f^Z T''^' ^ '""•""« ^'-'-- "^

f" .V on page 76. ^^"'-J the andu-rirel, is described more

^"^lUTIv this morlo^f 1 j-

''"■'^'■■--■■■.;:::r:;r;;::;rnrr ''■'-'-- -e^

;-" -Ksists of a substantia tSi;;'''^' • ''"^ P'" -^ -.pleted in , 85 .

"■If .J •. • J"! Ri I

' ' ' \ > *i .IF.

v ,

' •

"' .

i^.

'?''

> ' r

If.

ill. r , -^ . r I » .".iw 1 >.

I '

TIIK rOAST OF SA\ SALVADOR.

'♦^•I

I't'^pp, but its snfity in well iiniltTHtood liy the lonii pilo'n. Wiiti-r i« oon-
(liicti'd to the |)i('r-lica(l, ro that it may be tnLen on board by n hoM.>. At 60
yai'iU from each Hide of tlio mole a buoy it moored.

I.ii/ht. — Oil the end of the molf is n find li^lit. viHilile 7 mil«'«, nhowiiifj rrd
to southward, and i/nxn to northward, with n hiiijht sector between over tlio
bef t niK'horane ground. To clear the <lnn);eni off lU-medioH Toiiit, do not bring
till' li^rht to 1 ear northward of N.K. by N. i N.

Heef, poultry, Vl•^etal>K■s, and fruit, arc plentiful and clieaji. Hy Kivin>» two
days' notice, fresh provisions may l)c obtained in lar^e (|uaiititics from Sonso.
nate. Water is plentiful on shore, but the dillieulty of mttinj? it off through
the surf is very jjrcat.

The mark for anchoring was, in IH.'J'i. the fla;,'stafl' on with the larf?o door of
the custoiu-iiouse store, in 7 to \\ fathoms, according to the season. 'l"hc Ha^'-
staff should not be brought North of \. fil" K., particularly when near the
land, a» the bottom will then be rocky, and there is the chance of breaking or
losing the anchor. The bottom is not good holding grounrl, and vessels some-
times drive. In the fine season the current generally runs to the p].S.K. at tlic
rote of eight-tenths of a mile per hour. It is high water, on full und change,
nt 2'' 3.'}"' ; greatest range 1 1 ft.

II. M.S. Havana anchored here in May, 18."j9. in 12 fathoms, with the land-
ing place N. 55° E., and Point Uemedios N. 8r 25 E., the shoal ofl'the latter
sheltering her from the S.K.

('apt. Ilarvey says: — Here wc found a subs'antially built wharf, ot wliicli
there is generally fair landing, although at times the surf is such as to j)rcvi'iit
any approach. Merchant vessels discharge and receive cargo by their own
bouts. IJeef, stock, vegetables, and fruita may be obtained in any quantity
from Sonsonate ; but two days' notice must be given to secure having any con-
siderable amount. The pier, happily, is provided with cranes, which were use-
fid in getting off bullocks. A vessel should stand no nearer to the Ilemc(li»8
Hank than to 20 fathoms without a good breeze nnd clear weather. The vol-
cano Isalco was burning the whole of the stay. No lighthouse gives a belter
light ; the bearing N.K. by N. is a good mark for the port.

The following observations on this port, and on api)roaching it, ore by Capt,
Worth, of II. M.S. Cnhjpso, in 1847 :—

Acajutla, or Sonsonate Boads, although not much known, is safe, the oMc't
inhabitant remembering only one wreck : the reef off Remedios I'oini brc;iks,
the sea setting directly into the anchorage. Here the salt water is very inju-
rious to the cables and copper ; although at anchor not more than a fortniglit,
the cable and anchor were completely covered with small shell-fish, as also the
boom boats ; this remark is applicable to all the ports we visited on this coH
though not so much as at this place.

The passages to the westward arc imcertuin us to time, the land luul sea
breezes being so very unsettled.

7T)P/„

"" Uie p,
'"'"' a nhi

to .s. \y

"etwcon

'•"*" tJi,i„ ,^

'"" to be ,i,

""• "I'a hrvc

'"'"'A'"'!, is to

^'•e coast i

^''•^ fi'UMcJ t

'•"""'mia/ Nct t

"'"'•'' mokvH,

'"■•"•''"^' it /en.ys

""^•'''J' «-oo(lc.d.

''''"'« nnchon,^

"•'•^•"ftJ,e«ev,

"';•'""« "re pa«t

''^■mcdios. ,,,,erp ;

''^""^'i'"s ub/ch r

''■""'^•■''- "Ppears to

"";: ""•■'% a s„,ij,

.'""*• ^'«theSj.'
."'■''"' on tbc.\E
;'«» "umber of ,„;,
7''^ '^'^' point out

;:'^"'-«omtbebc:

^''^'M-erydiffi,

^f^nr Af'AjT'Tr.A.

'Tic //ind hrcor.o nlwnv. ki -».,

•"'"' « "'"J. to „.„ A« „ 7 , ""••'"'>cu,.. «„,j ,« „^„ - J-" -"Lore ,H,no,|) ,a

'-•'*'' tli.in tw„ ,!„„ „„ . *f "Jutiu the. i)n««Hjft. i., verv »„ i-

- ••• '"• "<'/..•...:• :t:7''"''^ '""' """ ^-" '4 t iT; !"''"' ""^■-

""' •"••« f)n.e^e will hi ' ""* '"•^•••^" "f^-" verv li ''"'""'^ '"''"K

^-- """ ''''-' '"^^"- «" '» - :i r:: f ;;;;^^' Win. o,...

^'''« « u quite el '^'•'^""^«"thtl.e,„,

^^:^- '-"Hi the «e„ l.m'!«.lZ„'r'"'.""^'''''-"«'' --I.v all „lo„,, .,
' """'•' -t to the s.E -,,'•" '" '"'"•^ ""•"• '""J "ft-. '

'•-orthesevt , '''''^" ^^-"«- to find, the ,

7 ---". .^;:% ^:c;^;;: - ^-"^ '-^ ^Ti^rtrr • ^""

v<''ca«o« are pa^t. when it 1, "'' "' '^ '"• ^ "nle« off l ' '"""'^■

Jf™edios,,vherei„th„r. ;'""'"'■'>■ '" the hi^ht / !." '"""^ ''" «

"^■""^dios which !„ ^■^'"' ""^ ""'•f <■"" lH« hear I ' ^^-^^^ "'■ ^'<""t

'"•^--'"^".g 3 nnl; "j^s VT '""'^ ^''^^ -''B re : :' f '^"'-^«.
'""^s- On the S V .• . , ■ '^"•^^tion, „n which ,1 '"^'^ !"»« of n

«■• ^- on the N.e: :^ °^.'''; i'-t the beach •'l^:::.^-'^^ '''''>■ ^
■•-to a number of ,„ a ! ' V' ''•«''^'' ^^^^ ^oeks an,, dul V"'' "" ''"^''^ "P""
-^^ '''^- point out a! ::^- ''">-^- «'-uh| ,«„ .., '^^^^ "J ^'-. dividing it
"'etches fion, the bell ^'""" P"""* °^ ^'- 'o>v til J '"' ^"" ^«"«ot

^''^'Z' /V,>. °™- ^'"^ laalco is a conical volea„ '^ '^"'"^'

^o'cano, apparently

'it. . i"

»'ji A

- 1 .

t ? r ' ' '','A I >i

'''III'

'u!:*-! : 1... Mil

Fit''''

1 1'^

I'll

1 .1

THE COAST OF SAN SALVADOR.

on the East side of tlie Madrc, and the crater is about onc-foiuth down from
the table land.

Capt. W. H. Purker says that in the dry se-'son there are so many fires on
the mountains that Isaico eannot always be distinguished. In making the
port from the southward, the custom-house is visible from a distance of 12
mileK, with a good glass, and in coming from the eastward, the white shed on
the jiier will open out as Uemcdios Point is rounded, which point should not
be approached within 4 miles. When the old custom-house is clear of the
bluff, which leads clear of some rocky patches, and the wharf bears about
IvN.l''-., run directly for the latter, and anchor in about 10 fathoms, tluec-
qunrters of a mile from the wharf.*

'I'he coast between Acajutla and San Joso or Istapn, a distance of about 60
miles, runs W. by N. and K. by S., with scarcely any inflexion; it is through-
out of gray sand, wooded to the shore, and beaten by a continual surf. Here
and there the vegetation was of a j aler green, and the whitened stems of the
mangroves indicate the impassable entrances of the liios dos Esclavos,^ Pazas
(the state boundary), San(ia(/o,n.\u\ Caoba. There is no known danger off shore,
and the depths are regular, of sandy mud. The current runs from West to
East, at half a mile to 1 mile per hour.

The best course to pursue in coming from Acajutla to Istapa, or rather San
Joso, is to keep 2 or 3 miles off the land, in 16 or 25 fathoms, so as to take
advantage of the land breezes, which are generally light. The sea breeze often
sets in from S.W. to W.S.W., and then you can beat inshore into 12 fathoms,
The lead is an excellent guide, and there is nothing to fear, as the depths
diminish regularly. IJut when the sea breeze sinks about 6 p.m., and the land
breeze will not give you a way of 3 knots, it is better to »iy;hor at once, or you
may lose ground.

* " Romarks on the Navigation of the Coagts between San Francisco and Panama," hy
Capt. W. II. Pnrkrr, P. M. S.S. Company, 1871.

+ "Thtf Rio de Ion Kuclivos, which falls into the sea West of Acajutla, is doscril)0(i by
Rli'phens as a wild niaji-stic river. He crossed the bridge over it, erected under the SpaniHli
dominion, and the greatest structure of that period. The village beyond was a mere col-
lection of huts, standinu; in a magnificent situation near the river, and above which moun-
tains rise covered to their summits with pines. Every predatory or lighting expoditiun Ip-
twcou Quatemiila and San Salvador passed through this miHtrablo village. Twice within
his route, Morazan's army was so straitened for provisions, and pressed by fear of pursuit,
that huts were torn down for firewood, and bullocks slain and eaten half raw in the strict,
without bread or tortillas. After lca\ing ihis village, the country was covered with luvii."
— Incidentt of Travel.

The Re|
'■''"peetofj
t'le populat

to 1,252,49;
consists of e,

""questional

ocean, and ti

f'"-' I'aeific it

'^'■'"i'a being i

''''••i>ute, but it

'''^"•ietofSocc
J"»v)nent by ^^^

'■"■c ft'w and s,u.

"°"e of them ci

The famous v(

'sthnius are her

13,517 feet, Fue>

''ave been very fr

"le third citj. of i,
°fM00ft.,i„^^^

cen.su8 in 2880 itsj
^chfneaJ, cotton,
"'^' fe''«.t staj,Je oj
'^•/'"hiic is largely,
/""■'s and in ditferej

^■'".502, and the if
I'.v tc/ograph.

. ^r^PA, or I^taJ

'^"icoutJetoftheJ

^* of San Pedro.,,

''"^'"'■«uatemaJa,bti

;"' ^-^ « ntiies to tl

,'""'^^' «■'■»« nautieallv,

*":'^- ^^''tJ'out a s„ J

r''^"''"'J"'thi«worJr.

( 75 )

5- GUATEMALA.
The Republic of Guat ) •

unquestionable salubrity u ^"'^ "^ scenery, of va.st f,. .-.•

ocean, and thi« f„ t w [ act '"'' '*^'""^>' ^« ''- -an of ",! '"^';«'"^

^"^- ^'-ific it extenit:t:;,>:::r'^^' ^'^ '- ---!/; ;::;"";7

';;"'M.a being the boundary, r'^fr*? ""^ «=«"«"- o^ Me^o hJir '
^''^l'"te, but it was settled in ,84 "^l.'^^^'^-^' ^-^ been the subiee of ""
"■•-- of ^Wusco. extendi;'t:eatToT \^'^''"^' ^" "■^">* ^ ^ ^
Fv-nt b, Mexico of a con«dLb,e " f ^T ''T ''' ''^^'^^' "n t
«re few and small ; the largest is the 1/ ' . v "'"'' ^''"'"*'' '"to the INe fi,

none of them can ever ho ff ^^'^hUoyat, which passes th. .

The famous vlaTo wh k"" '" '^'^'^- '''"'' '"^

'«thn.us are here Le Tn f "' ' '^'■^^■■^'^"■«'''%' feature of tl '

Lave been very frequently described T^ ^"'^''''"«'a). and Atitlan, 1] 500 f

4,400 ft.. ,„ a vast and beautiful plain inlanV J '^"'^'^ "' *^" *^J-vatio«

--us m 1880 its population was esT L ' P""' "'^'^ '^'-- At tl^

-chu.eal, cotton, and indigo are the . ° '""•^""* *» 57.928 CoV

'"^' ^-at staple of the cot t " Li ' • '"''"'^^ ^°^ "^-^' ^"t the fir.fl'
;P;^Hc i3 largely indebted to^he'^ o^ ^^''''T; ^^« — o^ ,
P rts and m different seasons. In i882 7 " ^^ ' "' '^'^^d '» differ ut

'>^-«2. and the imports £384. 8 rt;"': "f '"^ "^^^^ «'"ou„t Z'
•itST'- r "^^'"^^'^"'^^—-w connected

;-f;^"r:':i:::c::is^----uor^

^"^-^>« miles to the westwar ::/:::;7/'^^- ''''^ ^^'^■» ^'^ It

■-.cMvas nauticaliy unimportant Itr " '^' '"• "^^ !'-'.' T, ,'
^-d. wuhout a single attribute to g e f^"" "^'^^^ ^'"^^'^-Id o,„. .Jj
-;-'« "f a few grass huts. ' '' "" "'""« «^ P-t. The vil a^e Zt

^^^!:^^:::!!^^ -.V. 'K.ad,and. roc. or . ^
■ . ' '"i-«, or reef or

'CensoGunenil f1,>I,. t>„-..,,. ' " ■ ' "^

I '"^ '■epulilic

ir:

.- "'f ir|if|r|i7«igag»igaiaBai

7fl

THE COAST OF GUATFiMALA.

lilt

|i '

i::.i

mark whatever to distinguish it from the a<ljnccnt shores. " There is no light
at night, and vessels at sea take their bearings from the great volcanos of the
Antigua, more than 60 miles inland. A buuy was anchored outside of tho
breaki rs, with a cable attached, and under the sheds were three large launches
for embarking and disembarking the cargoes of the few vessels which resort to
this jilace. Ik'hind the sand-bar were a few Indian huts, and Indians nearly
nuked. Generally the sea is, as its name imports, pacific, and the waves roll
calmly to the shore ; but in the smoothest times there is a breaker, and to pass
this, as a part of the fixtures of the port, an anchor is dropped outside with a
buoy attached, and a long cable piussing from the buoy is secured on the shore.*
It was from this place that Alvarado fitted out his armam'.nt, and embarked with
his followers to dispute with I'izarro the riches of Peru." — Stephens.

The usual nnchorage was with the flagstiff bearing between N. by E. ar.d
\ J E., at half a mile offshore, in 14 to IG fathoms. It is best to anchor to
the East of these bearings, as there the boats in lauding have the advantage of
the current which runs to the eastward at from three-quarters of a mile to 1 i
mile per hour.

Mountains. — The following remarks are by Mr. H. Thompson, master of
II. M.S. Talbot .'—The whole of this country is remarkable fo- its mountainous
ranges, which may be seen in clear weatlier from a great distance seaward,
many of their lofty peaks and volcanos serving admirably as beacons to gaide
strangers to the various little ports and roadsteads situated on its coast, which
otherwise would not be easily found. Such is the case when bound to the

• Tho discharge and loading of Tcssels lying off Istapa, and othrr places on this coast,
which ia not effected in tho easiest manner through euch a tremeclous surf lashing the
shore, is done by means of what is called here thu " muJa-rivel," A iglicD, " guess- warp,"
above ullnded to.

This contrivance consists of a cable made fast to a strong post on tho shore, the outer end
vi which is securi d by an anchor some distance outside the surf. Within this anchor,
which is marki d by a buoy, ^ut still sufficiently clear of tho brokun water, is another buoy
attached to the warp, by means of which the strong launch i .nployed is joized to it, or
ca.st8it off. The launch having been brought to tho warp buoy, the wnrp is thrown into
rowlocks, ono on the bow, the other on the stt-rn of the launch. Those are then boltid in
with a pin to pri:vent their slipping off, and secured by a stopper, wormed round it ne.ir
the bolts. Tho boyas, or watermen, watch tho heaves of the sea, which, singularly enoui{li,
are always heaviest in threes, and when the heaviest wave approaches, tho pilot gives the
«in;nal, the lashings which socuro the bow and stem are slipped, and at the same moment nil
hands haul in the warp ; while running on the tremendous wave she is propelled with im-
mcnso rapiditj', and is usually driven on to the beach with the succeeding, wave, whw
generally forty or fifty Indians, with the fall of an " aparcju," or treblo-purchaas line,
which is hooked to a ring on tho launch's stern-post, and secured to the post, haul her high
Hud dry with the ne.xt wave. It sometimes happms that tho practico, or bowman, doesnul
lake the right sea, and then a larger breakii over her, swamping the launch, or dauiagini;
the cmgo, or nerhttDs lo-'ng it. — G. U. tikimur, AV/.

rondsfea

'■oatistea,

s'tuated i

eano of J>

^'"atenialt

'ast and wi

^■o^anos ar

*"" ^hG two

"'''>• i%'her,

^^'■' 'wo last.

""'"e periods

"r^yices near

"'''■■'I'itants of

"'^""t'oned, an,

«ccord/ng to tt

'fountain with

''""""•huishar
f ™c.d that it ij

;; f^^Pa the .rue
'^""te/naM, .y go

"■'"'•^^eaeh.then
"■^« about 2 7i J

'^'•^"'a/a nearly «

;-^^'t"te the wL
;^We;ose to the ,

l^yi^b it, i, \

"'^'""'J behind ft
■^™.''^^ «'hich it has

"''"''' ^^'^bontG^ti
7 t"'-^'^''^'^" that J

"■'lic/i, ,vft!, M ' °i

"-'.aiwavs

Guatemala: then fh « *"* " ^^^ water voI,.„« .t . '^ ^^^ vol-

volcano^ are of a mo^ ''°''"^"° "^ Tajumulco ^? °^^^"«^™«J« ; and the

but the two m ddiro '"^'*' '^"'^ fl tten d or '' '"* '^' ^««* o^ the«e

thctwo]a.t-me„tred • r ^""^'^ "* ^^^eir tops ""''""•'«' '^« consider-
-ne periods of I " ^"*''* ^°'«»"«; it h " h^' ''^*^">™««t one of
-cesnear , sutr* " '''''^ — apj ^,7 '"'' ^'•■^'^' ^

n.ent.oned, and appears to h 'e t" T '' *° ^'^^ -stward of th"?"'
«ocord,ng to their bearin. T ? ^'^'''''^^ ^'''"mits, which on. . ^''■
mountain with a deon nof K ^' ''""'^^t^^d it has thlf ^ ""'^ '^'"^^

'■"« « whitish appe:r rth';;'^ -T^-- ^^^ 4" ^ r^-- °^ one

Guatemala, N. 30 ^ '. "^ -'-«« of Guatemala, N I E J "''' '°'^""*>

white beach, then bore N ' f ""^"'P'*' "^i«='' -a.^ just visible o ^^''^'^
;-b°- I7i fathoms ne;b?^r'°"'^-^i"^^^^^^^^^
Guatemala nearly on will 'ido ^''""^^ ^^ 'hither of tL , ^"*'''

«nd sufficiently near to n f " "'"'"'^ *° ^^''hin a few mil ^ ! ^°''""°« "^

'i'^'nguish it, in cons." ' ^"'' "°^'^«« »he flag be fl. '° " «™«"

'trough which k h„ "'"'■""^^ to the river is llf *'""''« °^ trees

-- -a^a?re:\:rwt.r^'^ ^^ ^--« Kr ^''"-^'"

-'^. «'.o occasionally fi„d e^ ?"' '^^"^ ^'^'^'ter to about 40 "fn "' ''''''"'
7t\--'-hatLnlr'°^™-' ^" '^^^chargin, mtl^rfr"^;"
'"'he bad season (Juiv to q . . "^'«« from the

''''' '" "-hor at, ot L?'^ "'"^^ ' ^'^""'•J imagine thi
"'""--"thesouh rT;:, 1'^ '-^' -tirely expo!:;';: "''' """^«

SAlf JOSE DE GUATEMALA th ^--'rprae-

ipa

if'-^. ■^'''■' iL

.J H

i^^

V ' .-'» ,•'

' ' ". '.'r'

n, '■*,> f- ■

T, ,1. I . ^ _

-* ■ ni
• ' 'J ^

THE COAST OF GUATEMALA.

\^''r':>

,;■■ * I,

tB ^ . 1 W^^Rt find the anchorngc is aliout

The coast is very clear, -'^"f -\rr'5 tZins of .ate. The s.eU
three-quarters of a mile from shore, mil to ^^ ^^ ^^ ^^^^^^^^ ,^^^ ^he

Wks heavily upon the shore, -^ ^^J^f ^^aa-rivel) for laudin, on and
lach, making it necessary to use h ,nrt I m ^^^^ ^.^^ ^^^^ ^,

leaving the beach. The currents are veiTJ § ^.^^ .^ ^^^ ,,,,t period of
Inhe moon, the variations ^^l^^;^^'^^ZXn^ir., is easy. lu March the
8iK hours. From November to - ^W ^^.^^ ,,,, ,horc, and at

ebb and flo. of the tide extends i^'>-^^l^'ll [,, ,,,eh a distance of 1«0 to
tfloodtidethesurf iss^oheavy^as.d^h p^^ ^^^ ^^^^^ ^^ ^_ ,,,^ ,„

z::^^ ^ -^' nr ::^:^'- — ^' -^t"!

An .Von screrv-pUed pu- -« ^een ^nst ^^^ ^^^^^^^^^ ^^^^^ ^„,,i

about 330 yards from the shore to a poin y ^^^^^^^^ ^^ ^^^^^ 3, „

the transportation between ship and Bho- _^ ^ P^^^^ ^^ ^^^ ^.^^ ^,p,,,, .f

the year with facility and safety.

lifting a weight of 4 tons. .^ ^^^,,i„,es shown on ;he t«p of

Jsels are, however, dea. an proc- - ^^^^^ ,,,„,,,., . towu 40 -^es
vision be previously made ^° J^^,^^ , ^.p^lation amountmg to 11 398 m
aUtant, on the road to the capiUd -t JV ^^^^^^^ ^^ ^^.....t. The

1880 There are no means of rehtting
.pons consist of coffee, hides, sugar, ^^^^^^^^^^

Vhe usual modes of -nveyance to the i ^^^^^^^^^ ^^^ ^^^^^.^^^^^ j,,,,.

• . n;li<Tence8awaittheanl^al0Il :„ the dry season are ex-

X" "';-'""'>■ -"""■'■^r r:-:^ "^^^^^^^

current generally ».s to ^^__

„i„d. «ill «lt« 't. ,.,,„ „mc here m ">"»• '■ >,

—San J

SAN JOSf:- D, OUATrauu

m..l„ . ... .

on the const Of Ou. to. . • " ^^^^^^^'ALA.

« port, being inorelv n. ' "caption, it hn, n„ i •

winch can bo seen at% d "" '"^ '^ '''«'> ^urk saudt b 1. T "'"'"■^•"^' ''^^"
<•- the port. The alh '' °' ' '»''- ^^3 the t ' ""'' ^""^'^ '>""-

'^■'■ere is so„,e difficuh v^- f , '"" '''^ ^^'^^- '' ''"''«">«.

"' tl>o neighbourhood I. > " "^' ^^'^ anchora-e of S. v .

"'-•'^s. horvever r^ "^' °''^' ""^-ke„ line o^f bl ? ' '''' '''''' ''"e

''^^-ten.ala,g::::;'"^;^'--«-ar^^ trees; the be.st

f- ^>- ^V. . W... La";"n:t^^^ ^ro.

^- Ag„a being the neares 'and "' ""' ''"^''>«' ^- V E Ie ^V '' ''"^^"*-
» -Joep notch in its sumLt k , '' ''°"«P'<'"ous; the form ^"^"^'" "'"^

"-'^-t guide till ZZtT '''^ ^^"- ^-"."<>rou^ t r"' ''^'"^^" 'y

"'"J -^"'1. in H or 10 fatho „ T '"^'^ ^'"""^ i« tolerable

'"7- end bearing «,.J;7;;^;«'^^«ta«-on the eusto,„ :! •'^^P'-' "»"
»"^hor a little farther out • n 1 '" ''''^ '•■'"ny season i ^'°^ ^'t''

^-munication with th u "''"''^-'"'^to'- brings Tal "''^ '^^ ^'''^^- to

■^ ''^^'^ to very violent n " '"P^-'^'- At hat ;"'""' '"' ^'"»'^^■■•"-

"■■'^ ^-^' ^^'-r: r 1":'"^ -^ -"e: eTir ^'^-^^ --

ourrents. " Wh^n "'" bghtnnig. No relln "*"*<'<'*' attended

-to« to j.„„ t,„ if ; ■""• ™« l»«rinE of 4 '° '" '™ «"<! m„ko

. '■*■ *■• ^vo„„™ !;:';■" '"'""'•'■ " ''°'°°"' '■""'>-«

"S "is coa,i the p„. ""mbarg ship «•-..,,

'""« «« of oi;^ 7; »°: "■ W. """"■ ''■'■" »vo„, „„„,„,,„.,

r-"'- AtiV. '"""eW-N-Wofcs ,

• It lit *

KIT. 1 I V \>i3"

V'fi

iflfp *' '

THE COAST OF GUATEMALA.

in 5 to 7 fathoms. Being quite an open road, Capt. '.Vorfinann, of the ship
Magellan, says the cutters which bring off the sugar arc sometimes unable to
do so on account of strong adverse breezes, causing delay. About 8 miles
more to the westward is Tecojate, where the anchorage is bad, over shifting
sand. San Luis, about 35 miles farther to the N.W., at the mouth of the
l{ivcr Samala, may be known by two large sheds among some huts. The
anchorage here is dangerous in the bad season, but the port is connected by
road with the princij)al towns of the province.

Champerico, 12 miles N.W. of San Luis, has a custom-house, and is in-
creasing in importance; in 1880 its population numbered 605. Coffee is
loaded here in the fine season (November to April), but in the rainy season it
is very unhealthy, and the place is almost deserted. It is connected with
Ketalhuleu, 25 miles inland, and Quezaltenango, the second largest town of
the re]>ublic, and 50 miles inland, by a road. A fine pier has been built for
facilitating the loading of vessels. Large quantities of salt are made here.

Champerico may be recognized from sea by some large white houses and
flagstaffs. The ancnorage, which is open and exposed, is in 6 to 8 fathoms,
with Fuego volcano bearing N. 65° E., and Agua volcano N. 68° E. In the
rainy season the anchorage is very bad, and the sea breaks furiously on the shore.

About 45 miles farther to the N.W. is the village of San Beniio, whence
india-rubber and hides are shipped.

'l"he republic extends to the boundary of that of Mexico, the River Tilapa,
a distance of 95 miles from San Jose. It forms the southern side of the
province of Suchiltepeques, and is the eastern portion of the exteubive bay
called the Gulf of Tehuantepec.

The Province of Suchiltepeques is bounded on the West by the Mexican
province Chiapas, and extends along the Pacific about 96 miles. It was mucli
more populous formerly than in Juarros' time. The climate is warm, but loss
80 than Chiapas. The province is watered by sixteen rivers ; of these the
Samala, which discharges itself into the sea, under the name of the Xi'^alajm,
is the most iiujwrtant. It is fertile from its situation, and abundance of water;
the chief article of commerce is cocoa, so excellent in quality as to be preferred
by many to that of Soeonusco.

All the coast from San Jose to the head of the Gulf of Tehuantepec is dcgcribcd j
as being low and sandy, containing many lagoons, with shallow entrances.
Ikliind this low shore the mountains rise to a great height.

rm H'

^"'^ const, /esc

states of PI ■
o. , ' '-'nap

PoJtionj
'•goo^rnp^

'"'/'"'ts^ereat"
"•'"eh thov,^- ,

"lose r)n.f„ . ^'

and li

°''ces to all

porta
'■""p'o ;i
snfcty,

'"'fame a
"(the

The

vice-r.

parent

'^yalty
'"onarchi

est I

I '^\ieo. s{„,

'•/// /•

"Ct^C

CHAPTER n.

^UAbT OF MFXTnr^

?r--^»f?--t^:i^^^^

»«»»'.». ,,„„,„„, 2 Ccrroro. A,,-,^ (11,"" "■'"■'""■■I "f U.c

"" s'-R^p).,-.,, *7» -i'"!"... "• '""""■ •'■""CO, „„„ „„„;'

''•I»«. »cr.I?;,, "" *« '■»'«« .1.0,.. ' ''"• "^"""llv. « ver,. «„„„, ,

I'^^zi ,r "'"'»'"«'» of :,, 7;""'' " «.on»i „o„;:;™*»'' ^ for

•w, „,„^„, -«'« o„po,.„, „„„„. .::.-^-"», „.,,4"*-

• »' '»"B«s„„o [. „J

* HI 111' ji'iL'sl

4. I

"- II

THE WEST COAST OF MEXICO.

111 •!

Boon abdicated and retired, but returning, ho was apprehended and exorutcd.
The government was then modelled on a similar constitution to that of the
United States ; but the original i)arty divisions remained, though under
different names, llie campaign which led to the annexation of Upper
California to the United .States in 1847 led to no internal amelioration, and
the first hopes of the world were defeated, when the *tatc was destroyed as an
empire by the death of the heroic Maximilian. To these disturbances, and
consequent insecurity of property, must be attributed the embarrassments of
commercial enterprise, the enactments of the law, and the long train of evils
which lie so heavy on this fine country, and its otherwise, in many respects,
good population.

Mexico is divided into twenty-nine political divisions, and has an area of
711,820 square miles, the population, according to the census of 1882, bcin"
10,001,884. About 2,800 miles of railway were open in 1883, and several
important lines are under construction, some in connection with the United
States system. Other lines are also projected to connect the numerous ports
along the Pacific coast.

The country of Mexico, especially that part on the Pacific, is divided by the
natives into tierras calieittcs, or hot regions ; the tivrras iempladas, or tem-
perate regions ; and the tierras frias, or cold regions. The first includes those
beneath the elevation of 2,000 ft. ; the latter tract occupies the most important
part of Mexico, and, in fact, is that vast plateau on which Mexico stands. On
the low lands of the coasts the heat, during part of the year, is insupportable,
even by the natives, and thus the town of San Bias becomes annually depopu-
lated for a season.

The Cordillera or mountain chain, which, in the southern Andes, is a well-
marked line of lofty ranges, and less distinctly so in the North and throughout
Guatemala, in Mexico divides into two somewhat indistinct branches, foUowinj,'
either coast. That to the South is irregular, and in some parts but little
known. At the head of the Gulf of Tehuantepec it is about 60 miles off the
coast, on an average, but leaves many valleys of slight elevation between the
detached portions of it. To the mariner most of them are unimportant, unless
we mention the volcano of Colima, which becomes an excellent landmaik for
that portion of the coast. Most of the peaks are volcanic, .some in activity;
and the usual volcanic phenomena of erujjtions and earthquakes arc frequent,
the latter particularly so ; and many severe visitations of this sort arc upon
record. At Acapulco this becomes a serious bar to its continued prosperity.

Of our hydrographical knowledge of the Pacific coast a few words uiay kl
said. With some detached portions we are intimately acquainted, through tin
excellent surveys made in 1837-8, by Sir Edward Belcher, of the English nani
when on this coast in 11. M.S. Sulphur. In tlie voyage of the French frigai
Venus, commanded by Du Petit Thouars, who was on the coast at the sa
time with Sir Edward Belcher, we find some information ; and to M. Tess-i

his J
pos.sei

"/' t/)0

^.'itfcr li

"lUc/j f,

^^'pst CO

/'''-'• Offio
"" '■^■■ped,-)
S'lorcs, a t

P"''''c.-U/on

*"»' period,

'"''% aTri,su

^^^^'ro, and a

''"■« captivity

and a//

papers

outSc ■

"ce It to

'aj-,

''"''''■^'"'d. OS dr
«J,''^«oco„.p„„l

^' ^»'est Coa

'"quo.

I t^e months
a»'/ trade,

^e ^rol

,^J^^'"^"eanes'tJ

' O^ July]

^b^'/ievethe
-^-e I V r '^"^

"«»'about:r".^''

""d all I

'i' aboij
titcc,

"■"■■' "-' "' "- - "; :r "" "-" ■" ^•woni";;™' ""'"- -^ "o-

*"«' period, was fruiter V ^^ '^'' '""J^^^' for bv t , ^ "'"'""^ ' ^»' the
,^-^— d b/ r",^,^^^^'"Hnna.a,u,e^^^^^^ of Europe J

«etiro, and after^ds Zj^r' ""^ ^'"•-" '^ t e -"™ ^o Cadi,

-^ a" papers „„d drawing L?" •"' ^'""* '--'"ff and °' ''°"'"'^- ^«
;-ed and suppressed by h ""^""^ ^«' - coJIeeted by th '"' "'^'^ ^'"''"l.
^■^« disturbed state of s''?"^""'™-*- ©f the ea«se of .r T''''''"' --«
-'--, ./g,, have ledt ' '" "'"^"^^ ^« ^^ overll'" '"'^ '« ^--n.
*>"«- it to sa,. that he 17^"'"'' ""''^'' ^^^^^pZlT "' '"'""-'-J
^^'^< - drawn up V /) " Tr'^'^^ ^™'" t^^ '",1; ^ '" ''^ ^'^""^^^
"hile accompanying rh! " ^ '^'> ^"'"a, p r g" ' " ^"''"^'i'-ontly

^ ^---- ' i f^ii ;:?:;;■-• '" "°^ ^^^ «^-v-ion:

"' '"'ricne ,o ^IT ,'°" ' "" ""«'"0 to ,t K , *''»""'• I ^iall

.ocou„.„/..^'"'™''«*S.n

■■

I i

I'lf

!i'

1 1

11
inl

(^1

I •■

l§.l\

I • '1 ";■

'IllK WEST COAST OK MEXICO.

experienced of late years liavc occurred on tlic Ist of November, nltliough the
weather usually clears up about the 20th of October, and sometimes even
sooner ; and ns soon as the weather docs begin to clear up, a ship may, with
common precautions, venture into the nnchoragcs again, for this reason, the
weather will give aniple warning of a coming hurricane ; whereas, in the pre-
vious four months, before the weather has cleared up, the circumstance that
adds to the dangers of this coast is, that owing to the threatening appearance
of the sky every evening, and the violent thunder storms and squalls at night,
uccompaniud by heavy rain and lightning, the wind veering about, you are at
first led to believe that the hurricane is coming every night, and latterly you
Bce it is utterly hopeless to foresee the coming of it, as every night appearances
were as bad as they could be ; the barometer here being of little or no use,
and a tremendous sea occasionally setting in. Thus the remaining oflf this
coast during the hurricane season will cause great anxiety.

The squalls and gales usually commence about S.E., and quickly fly round
to the southward and S.W. ; you have generally time to get to sea when it
commences at S.E. ; but, as I have before shown, you must go to sea every
night, if you can, if you would be free from the dangers of the cordonazos
coming on. But a tremendous swell frequently sets in whilst the weathtr is
in this threatening state, and the wind still light, which nuikes it impossible to
get out. Moreover, if our boats happened to be out, and on shore when tlie
swell came, it was impossible to hoist them in, and for this reason we have
frecjuently been obliged to send our boats from the ship, with their crews, to
be hauled up on shore, and remain there until the swell went down, that I
might be ready to slip and go to sea.

It appears that the cordoMiizos come on an average once in 6 or 8 yean, and
we experienced none during our stay, although we had a gale on the night
of the '21st of September. 1 was fortunately under weigh, and had plenty o.
room when it came on, having stood out to sea on the evening of the 19th,
on account of the weather being bad, and fearing the full of the moou on
the 2t)th.

It commenced about 9'' 20"" p.m. from the S.E., flying roimd to S.W..
heavy rain, thunder, and lightning, with a very heavy sea, reducing us to close-
reefed main-topsail, and fore-staysail, washing away a boat, and obliging us
to batten down. The sc^ualls come on very suddenly, the prevailing winds
being in the bad season S.E. to South and S.W., and the heavy swell usuallv
before and after the full and change of the moon. The swell is such as is seiii
in the Buy of Biscay in a heavy gale, and, unfortunately, usually sets into the
bays before the wind comes.

I therefore think, that a ship caught at anchor off San Bias, or ^lazatlan, bv
a cordonuzo, would have small chance of escape, especially oS the former, iis
she would either go on shore or go down at her anchors ; to slip and slaml out
the instant it commences from S.E. in her best course.

The

'""■o/lll

lo/ii/t/er
After

"i'i'earan
^'>ti lih

t'le tJierni
'""' «epte
'eceivo nil

^^" tills c

"'■ ""•'". a,

'"•ea,/ti, acr,

' ^'- 6 in. in

("It found 1 1

1^0 men ^-ith

«<""uion on tJ,

"""■^' 'iren.Jt.d ]

.'V^'"'"" '■" th
'"'"'"'• "nd, fro,

"'^^"ffieientstrei

'" ''"-' ^^'^'iider „
""""''''• of Guate]
"'!;:"' "' '■»« head

^^'' ^i'"c-rica„ ,

r'"^''^" the At/a

V'>s.sionofthe
^ ^'""-^-js were „"J
, t '''''^^ Orti^

, '"'""-■%■ of rJI
t i^aoou of 7VI,. I

"^■T'lpeeho

.^"'^•''■^^«>vej

"1 ,

■I i!

:i "i

.; nMitirr''r"rriyTiirtiffi«ri1TrMlilrltfitiTili

f^'Vl.F OF TrrTT-.».
'i'hc ran^^e of... , "'"I •VXTKl.Kf..

^^^''''"'; -P%' above a t .. K ' "''''"'' -'""y ."«.«• ""' '^'''^

con.,Ueraiij,. ''"^''. <^xccpt duri„j, a J.Z, '"""''' '"'O inches;

^^^'«-'-^thof.Vovo„.bert, "^' ^•^"""- -'^en it .^J

' "■ '». i.. d>.p„, i„ °°'' ""^ ■""'"I' »a. 3 ft. s i, ■., ' ""'»»'"«1 .9 ft. i„

„ "- -vo,. „„, „„, • ■"'""' — in.„ the Oolf

'Auijuxiatioi, of th,. ;.„ *^"i" ii- H'

i|^:-^;-MI;

■fl if S)

^1 !{».•■

f?'

i-^

: ■

' ?»

Rfi

THE WMST COAST OF MEXICO.

H -;

ill I

ii'porti'd Unit it wiis |)riutic'iil)lu to construct n cnnal lutwccn tlic Ilivcr Oont-
KiicuulcoH and Sitlinii Cruz, u distance of 144 miles, but about 140 locks
would be ncci'Hsary.*

The latest Ntdicino for making use of this isthmus is that by Capt. Ends, so
will known in connection with the tiueccbsrul works for inijiroving the entrance
of the Mississippi Kivcr. He proposes to construct a railway, on which vessels
t)f large size would be transported from ocean to ocean in a few hours. The
highest point reached by the railway would be about 600 ft. above the s«a
level.

The whole shore of Tehuantepec is subject to the visitation of terrific hurri-
canes (which take their name from the isthmus), sweeping with resistless fury
along this inhospitable coast, which does not afford a harbour of refuge even
for the Hmallest class of sea-going vessels.

Since the end of the sixteenth century Tehuantepec has beeu but very little
frequented ; the sea retires daily from its shores, and the anchorage deteriorates
every year. The sand brought liy the Chimalapu increases the height and
exten; of the sandy bars lying at the c\-* of the channel from the first lagoon
into the second, and from this into the sea.

Between the base of the Cordillera and the ocean is a plain which separates
them from the Ingoons, which, like an immense bay, communicates with the
I'acific. This llano, or plain, consists of a shifting soil, formed by the detritus
of the slate composing the adjacent hills.

From the Cordillera to the lagoons the plain occupies a space of about 1 8
miles. According to the United States Tvey of 1871 the inner lagoon,
named Tilema or Superior, is about 15 miles "»tent N.E. and S.W., by 10
miles in its greatest width, and from its mouth, i^ vhe liarra de Santa
Teresa, te the point where the two discharge themselves iniu 'lie ocean, called
the Jioca Barra, the distance is 6 miles. It is a marshy lake, the depth
nowhere exceeding 21 it., with several small islands in it. The outer or
Inferior lagoon, including the eastern and western lagoons, is about 30 miles
in extent, East and West, and it is atnted that an arm of it rearhcs beyrvid the
liarra de Tenola or Tonala, which lies in about long. C !" ii;' W, The mail
8teamc"s call at Tonala. The town has a population of about fi.T'jO.

There is but little depth in either of these lagoons; thi-> oiuer one has not
more than 16 ft. in the centre, in the line of the canoe navigation, the
shallowest part having only 4 ft. Tlic sandy tongue of land dividing the
interior lagoon from the Tilema Marsh, and that dividing this from tiic ocean,
is formed by the waters brought down by the i iv is coming from the Sierre
Madre, particularly the Chicapa and the Juchitan.

Soconusco. — In 1871 the Mexican Government declared this port, on the

♦Rrports of Explorations niid Surveys to nscrrtain the practicability of a Ship-ciinal
a■cro^B the Inhmus ot Tthuautoptc, li) Ciipt. R. W. ShufelJt, U.S.N., WusLicglon, 1«72.

const of Ohi

f^>r the use i

to the chart,

tlio anchoro^

About 17 I

l''f,'li- Capt.

n licrth of at

fiitjiclied huti

remarkable hi

latter bar, and

Mar, with a (

Smi Mateo.

Boca Barra,

extensive lakes

<^ulf of Tehua

•According to .1

Itast depth of 7

•Mr. Tra.stour, or

of "i miles an

entrance imprncl

VENTOSA Bi

long. 95" 8' \S'., J

I'eing low and sai

ti''ii of Major li;

terminus for the

isthmus from the

river fulls into the

oil the Pacific to t

pused to be run on

licnce to Chipegua

in 1879.

'^ho S.W. limit
of an oblong shapi
i" circumference ;
froiji the former b
projcfUon into the
tastcin e.xtreiiiity oi
t"e westward, and i:
There is a stone tow
'^'^ the northward
t« the northward an
scarcely broken by t
»u'iy and shallow la

■-■y^m,t.

VKNTORA n.VY.

const of Ohinpns, open to foreimi coinmiTc'c, and proposed to conRtniot n \s harf
for the UNO of the iniiil stuitiuerH which hero hhip cueao, coH'ee, &{j. Aueordin;;
to the chart, Moconusco bar is in lat. 15^ 2J' N., but we Lave uo particulars of
the anchorof^c.

About 17 miles inland, in Int. 16^ 0' N., is Soconusco volcano, about 5,000 ft.
hif;h. Capt. W. II. Parker Htates that near Ttmnln Hur liie uliore should liiive
n berth of at least 4 miles. To tho westward of thi.s bar there are luuueruus
(Uuiched huts, and three villages, tho fust near San Francisco Bar. A
remarkable hill, marked with white stripes of sand, lies 2 miles Kast of tho
latter bar, and at 5 miles westward of the bar is tlie village of Santa Maria del
Mar, with a couspicuous church, 7 miles beyond which is tho village of
Sail Mateo.

Boca Barra, or San Francisco Bar, as above said, is tho outlet of tho
e.xti'iisive lakes which lie just within the lino of sandy beach at the head of the
Gulf of Tehuantepec, and is in about lat. Ifi-' l.'V N., long. 94^ 45 W.
.-Vccording to Mr. Trastour's survey, the Boca Harra • .; 500 ft. wide, with a
least depth of 7 to 10 ft., but tho current sots out of it with great velocity.
Mr. Trastour, on November 'Jth, 1850, at llj*", found it to run out at the rate
of 7. J miles an hour. Tho sea breaks a mile from the shore, making the
entrance impracticable.

VENTOSA BAY, the harbour of Tehuantepec, is in lat 16° 11' N., and
long. 95" 8' W., about 22 miles westward of the Boca Barm, the narrow beach
being low and sandy. The enviroas were carefully surveyed, under the direc-
li(in of Major Barnard, in December, ISoi by Mr. P. E. Trastour, C.K., as a
terminus for the Tehuantepec liailway, \ ich was proposed to cross tho
isthmus from the upper course of the Gofusacoaleos River at Minatitlan. This
river falls into the (iulf of Mexico, and the railway wa.s proposed to terminate
un the Pacific to the north-eastward of the Morro, from which a pier was pro-
posed to be run out for one-sixth of a mile into 6J fathoms. The coast from
hence to Chipegua Point was surveyed by the officers of the U.S.S. I'uscarora,
in 1879.

The S.W. limit of the bay is formed by the Cerro Morro, an isolated rock
of an oblong shape, rounded at the summit, about 150 ft. high and 2,600 ft.
ill circumference ; and a little more to the South by a pointed rock, separated
from the former by an interval fdled in with sand, and forming an angular
jirojection into the sea called the Murro or Fentosa Point. This point is tho
eibtcni e.xtreinity of a line of rocky hills which forms tlie coast for a mile to
tiie westward, and is the termination of a spur from the Cordillera of Oa.xaca.
There is a stone tower on the point, with a Hagstaff near it.

Tu tlie northward of the Cerro Morro is the sandy beach, which trends first
to the northward and then eastward, the seaward limits of an extensive plain,
scarcely broken by the isolated hillocks of Iluazoatlan. This beach is cut by
saudy and shallow lagoons, having several outlets into the sea, and by the bed

iii > ■
1:1 U

it:

{;< . ,4^1

fii'

I, ., I

THE WEST COAST OF MEXICO.

of the Tcl.iantcpcc River. At the time of the periodical overflowing this
current flows over a low country before reaching the ocean, which it docs by
its mouth, about three-quarters of a mile northward of the Morro.

It appears to have good holding ground, the depth being 6 to 9 fathoms,
sandy clay bottom. The greatest difference in the level of the water observed
was 6J ft. Ships ride sheltered under tho Morro, the bay being open to South
and East, allowing vessels to have ingress and egress, irrespective of the
quarter from which the wind blows. The bay, however, is said to be shoaling.

The N.N.H wind commences in the middle of October, and ceases early in
April. It is at its height, and blows without interruption in November, but
after this it is not so regular, and gradually ceases altogether.

If the summits of the mountains of Guichicovi and San Miguel Chimalapn,
about 45 miles distant to the North and N.E., but visible from sea, are hidden
by slate-coloured vapour at sundown, the northers will blow next day. If
these mists are seen at the former hour on the southern horizon, the S.S.W.
wind will blow on the following day.

Salina Cruz Bay lies to the westward of the hills extending from the Morro
of La Ventosa. From the termination of that group of high lands the sandy
beach of Salina Cruz trends westward for about IJ mile, and bending to tho
southward terminates at Salina Cruz Point, a rocky projection off which arc
several clusters of rocks, above and under water, to the extent of IJ cable, but
the water is deep, 8 and 9 fathoms, just outside of them. In tlie bay the depth
increases from 4 fathoms near the shore to 8 and 10 fatlioms at 3 cables fnnu
the sandy beach. At a quarter of a mile North of the point, at the foot o*" tlic
high ground, is a spring. The village lies in the N.W. part of the bay, and is
connected with Tchuantepec by a road, and tht» mail steamers make it a j)ort
of call. The anchorage is good and well sheltered, and it is proposed to con-
struct a mole, to extend 3 or 4 cables eastward of Salina Cruz Point. The tele-
graph cable connecting Mexico with Panama is landed here.

Salina del MarqncB lies to the westward of Salina Cruz, and is similarly
formed, about 2 miles in extent, with lagoons at the back of the strand.
Concjo Bay, *,a the westward, is divided from Salina Marcpics Ray by the
Morro de Salina Marques, a hill 297 ft. high on a projecting point. Coni'Jo
Bay is 2 J miles wide, and from its eastern point tho coast trends 1 mile
S.W. by W. to Punta de Guela-ijiehi, the eastern point of Chipcgua Iky,

The town of TEiiuANXErLC is about 11 miles in direct distance northwmd
om the beach of Ventosa and Salina Cruz Bays. It has a population of about
8,000, and has several churches and a modern college.

Chipegtia Bay is 5^ miles in breadth between Punta de Guela-giehi and
xHinta de Chipcgua, and nearly half a mile N.E. of the latter point is a small
rock, 10 to 15 ft. high, the depth between it and the northern part of tho
point being from 1} to 4 fathoms, and westward of it arc heavy breakers.
There is anchorage in 7 or S futhom.s, at 7 cables N.W. by N. \ \. from tin-

lock. Accc
l()?)g. 95° 2i
of tho railw
I'he coast
following ac
from the Na
The Bay
tion is by C
long. 93'' 28'
tlie coast run
lilufl' headlnn(
and afford nc
called the Baj
ward it shows
jocting out fro
double head.
hare of vegeta
ther inland, bei
a few of wliicl
trees and bushc
of the Bay of I]
ii" Punta de Zi;
P'lnta de Zipejj
showing throng
shore from 2 to
-i to ,3 miles po
■iml distant fron
^'ipi'i/ua, or Mac
(i')n is from 60 U
IvN'.E. and W.S.
what can be see
''"'l^^s (?) distant,
close to the reef.
bv tiio divers in
/^'Vcgua toward T
The beach, or /
t" land (m with .a
than was very agr(
hlowing along the
beach, in 9 fathom
The tforro Ayi
li.v the U.S. survey
North Pucifi

BAY OF BAMBA— MORRO AYUCA.

rock. According to the U.S. survey Puita de Chipcgua is in hit. 16° 1' 20" N.,
long. 95° 22' 30" W. It has been proposed to make this the Pacific terminus
of the railway across the isthmus of Tehuantepec.

The coast beyond this to the W.S.W. is very little known, but we have the
following accounts of two landi'ig-placcs between Salina Cruz and Guatulco,
from the Nautical Magazine (1839), as related by Capt. Peter Masters.

The Bay of Bamba does not appear on the chart 'J"hc following descrip-
tion is by Capt. Masters: — Punta de Zipcgua (Chipcgua) is in lat. 10° I' N.,
long. 95° 28' 30' W. (?). From this point to the Morro de Ystapa (Ayuca)
the coast runs about ^V.N.^V. by compass. Between these points are several
bluff headlands, which do not project far out from the general line of coast,
and afford no shelter. I'unta de Zipcgua forms the eastern part of what is
c;illcd the Bay of Bamba, and is a very rcmnrkable headland. From the west-
ward it shows itself with a bold dark cliff to the sea, about 100 ft. high, pro-
jecting out from the western line of coast nearly a mile, and forming a kind of
(Inuble head. A short distance within the outer bluff is a peaked hill, quite
bare of vegetation, with the appearance of a light-coloured eandstone. Fur-
ther inland, between 1 and 2 miles, the ground rises higher in small hummocks,
a few of which are quite bare, and others have a small (luantity of stunted
trees and bushes scattered over them. The head which forms the West side
(if the Bay of Bamba is not so high, nor docs it rise so suddenly from the sea
as Punta de Zipcgua. It is also covered with bushes. The eastcru side of
I'linta de Zipcgua is covered with bushes and stunted trees : the sand only
showing through the soil in very few places. When abreast of it, and off
shore from 2 to 8 miles, the current was running to windward, W.S.W., from
'2.J to 3 miles per hour. About N.E., by compass, from the Ptmta de Zijiegua,
ami distant from 4 to 5 miles (?), is a high reef of rocks, called Vitdra de
lipejiua, or Miichaynista, in the chart. Island of h'schcvan. Its greatest eleva-
tion is from 60 to 70 ft. ; its length is about a third of a mile, running in an
!',.N.K. and W.S.W. direction. It is said there are no dan;;orii near it but
what can be seen. Between it and the main, from whieu it is about 4
miles (?) distant, in a N.W. direction, there is good anchorage ; the best is
close to the reef. The pearl oysters are plentiful near this reef, and are caught
by the divers in the rainy season. The general line of coast from Punta de
Zl|)Pgua toward Tehuantepec runs about N.E. by N., easterly.

'I'he beach, or Pluya de liamha, is about 5 miles long, and must be very bad
td land on with a fresh sea-breeze. There was more surf on it when wc landed
than was very agreeable. The boat was half filled, although the wind was
blowing along the coast. Wc came to anclior abreast the western part of the
beach, in 9 fathoms, sandy bottom, offshore IJ mile.

The Morro Ayuca, Aytda, or de Santiayo de Ystapa according to Musters,
by the U.S. survey of 1879 is in lat. 15° 52' N., long. 95'-' 4G' 44' W. It is a
North Pacific. n

' *" 1

% y

i ■■

,t ! i

■Hi .
/■ ■

: it '' .

, 'lT

;

THE WEST COAST OF MEXICO.

bold oliffy point, surrounded by a reef, which has 3 nnd 4 fatlioms close to it,
and extending on the northern side about 1 J cable's length, some of the rocks
being always visible. The bay, about 1 i mile in extent, has a low sandy shove,
nnd vessels may anchor in 6 or 7 fathoms, fine sand, at three-quarters of a mile
off, but only with northerly winds.

Near the Morro is the entrance of the small river of Ayuta, the stream that
runs by Ilaumilulu and Ystapa. There is a bar across its entrance. The
canoes land on the beach in preference to going over it, as this is attended
with danger.

A few miles to the westward is the Morro de la Lagunn, near which is a
large lake, from which the headland takes its name.

Bay of Rosario. — The following description, and directions for this bny,
are by Capt. Masters : —

The West side of the Bay of Eosario is formed by the Morro de las Salinas
de Rosario, and is in lat. 15° 50' 25" N., long. 96° 2' W. (?), by four .sets of
lunars taken East and West of the moon. It projects about a mile beyond the
line of coast. On the western side is a beach 4 or 5 miles in length to the
next head. When abreast of Morro do las Salinas it appears like an island
with two large rocks abreast of its eawtcrn and western part, but the whole is
connected to the main ; what appears to be the eastern rock lieing a broken
rocky head, iibout 100 ft. high. The western one is about half the elevation.
Both these heads terminate with a broken cliff; the tops of them are bare, and
of greyish colour ; the lower part is quite black, caused by the sea washing
against them. Between these heads is a small sandy bay, at the foot of the
Morro, which rises gradually from the beach to the top of the hill, nnd is
about 180 to 200 ft. high. It has a few straggling bushes on it, but its
general ap])earance is very barren. The beach of Rosario is 10 miles long
from Morro de las Salinas to Morro de la Laguna Grande, which is its eastern
extremity. About half the distance between the Morros is a rock on tlip
•"•icli, (il, ut 40 ft. high, and nearly the same diameter; at spring tides tlio
wa'ev ' s round it.

» »' g the time of our lying in the Bay of Rosario, which was from the
r2th of February to the 1st of April, wo had three .smart northers. These
came on at the full and change of the moon. At this time the surf runs very
heavy on the beach ; our boat was capsized several times wliilst we lay licre,
in landing and coming off. At times the sea broke very heavily in all pint*
of the bay, that is, on the beach. I was caught on shore, a few days alter
arriving here, during the first norther, which came on suddenly with a parchini;
hot wind. A cross, confused sea hove in from the South and N.K. The iiiil
must have blown strong out in the gulf, from the .same direction, and thouirli
it blew very heavily for three dayn, with the wind at times to the westward if
North, the sea kept a\i until some time after the norther had ceased hlowiiv
This is nut generally the ease, lor a str.ing nortlier ^anil in particular if it viih

veiY
1 here

after

! • iiul

Lrd > i
liw'iiv:

THE BAY OF IIOSARIO.

to N XW.) bents the sea down, at which time landing is attended with little
or no risk, which was the case when we had the last two northers. I was
informed (and judging from appearances I think correctly) that very often
when the wind is North, or N.N.W., close in shore, it is N.E. in the offing,
which makes it impossible to land on the coast. I remarked whilst lying hero,
nt the full and change of the moon, when no norther was blowing, that
ulthough the surf ran so high that no boat could land, the vessel lay without
any motion. We were moored less than 300 fathjnii from the shore. The
surf appeared not to be caused by a swell rolling in, and agitating the sea at
the surface, but to rise from below, and without a^iy apparent cause, as we
had iigh-t winds and fine weather the most of che time we lay here. On
another occasion I was caught on shore with a boat's crew for three days. In
attempting to get off to the ship, the boat was capsized and stove. It was
then, and had b»vn ;). a week previous, nearly a calm. The hea^'y ground-
swell in varia l" )» from the 8.S.W. We fortunately escaped from this
beach withoii Jini; aay of our people, which was more than I expected,
having had three laid up at different times, who were saved from being drowned
by a mere chance.

In addition to what has already been said about this part of the coast, it can
b(j known by the low land at the back of the beach of llosario. This runs in
flora 1 to 2J leagues before there is much rise in it, and is thickly covered
wiih trees. From North to N.W. of Morro de las Salinas, nearly 2 leagues
from the shore, the rising ground is formed by a number of small barren
hillocks. From our anchorage, where we loaded, the following bearings were
talan, lying in 9J fathoms water, sandy bottom. There are two large jwtehes
of a whitish appearance, the farthest range of the Cordilleras ; the eastern is
the lowest, and bore N. 59 J" W. Th.' appearance cannot be seen, unless from
a little to the westward of Morrc i.^ l;\s Salinas. This has every appenranee
of being a waterfall, and rises f ira tho other patch in a N.W. direction at
about an angle of 45^". It isi-.ie;- f' i . ; s^inall valley in the Cerro del Chonga.
The highest point of this ri. i^r' ' '. u.^t a small elevation above it, and is
covered with trees. The waterfa)' 'iclhu s towards the South, and can be
iiceu descending for several hundred ii' ! itfore it is lost sight of amidst the
forest below. Cerro de Zadnn bore *J. 89" W., and the extreme bluff of
Morro de las Salinas, S. 36" W., 3^ ir.les. The eastern point well within the
liiiirings, and I'unta de la Laguna 'irande, N. 71" E., (J to 7 miles ; the rock
K\ the beach (already mentioned ab 40 ft. high), N. 65"^ E. ; and the galena
or shed, under which the cargr, was piled, N. 26° W., half a mile ; bearings
by compass.

At the western part of the Iv are four palm trees close to the beach. The
distance from the Morro de ! j -'''jip? is about half a mile, and between these
■ms and the Morro is a larger fiu-v^r of j idms. Hetween these two clusters

It all timcj the best place to huid, us a boat can beaeh iicie with compara-

f \

THE WEST COAST OF MEXICO.

tive safety, when at every other part of the bay the sea runs very heavy. At
the neaps we found the place quite smooth, with the exception of a sea heaving
in at about every 10 or 15 minutes; but it causes no risk to a boat provided
she is kept end on.

At the south -v.iistern part of the beach, and where n small pathway leads to
cross the Morro de Salinas, close to the sea-side, in the clifiF of a rock, is a
small spring of excellent water. We always found it clear and cool, even at
noon ; my consignee said we could fill the ship's stock of water fri)m it with
dispatch, but I soon found out that he knew nothing about it. The quantity
that could be filled in a day did not exceed 30 gallons, and after having
landed all , our water-casks we had to re-ship them, through a great deal of
surf, and land them at the galena abi ;' ^lic ship. We filled our water at a
well about a mile from the beach, but t ily was very limited; it being

the only well that had water in it up to . day of our sailing, we did no.
complete our stock.

A captain of a ship should trust to no promises when he comes here, either
with regard to supplies or anything else, no matter by whom made ; and, as
water and fuel are indispensable articles, the filling the one, and cutting the
other, should bo commenced immediately on their arrival by some of the crew.
It is useless to employ Indians to work for the ship (that is, on shore), tlic
greatest part of them will neither be led nor driven. On board they answer
better (that is, a few of them) to haul the wood about in the hold. I found
tho proiuisos of Indians, and, as they called themselves, " (/enic decente i/
ciiii/izado," on a par.

From the Bay of Rosario to the Island of Tangolatangola there arc several
small headlands, which do not project much beyond the general line of coast,
with the exception of Morro de las Salinas do Rosario. Most of them have a
steep elilF facing the sea, with fine sandy beaches between them ; at the back
of which arc scattered a few small trees and bushes, the land rising in very
irregular-shaped hills toward the Cordilleras. Abreast of the beaches, between
the heads, the anchorage is quite clear, and when in from 9 to 12 fathoms
water the distance off shore is about a mile, with sandy bottom.

The Island o/ I'unyulataiKjola is thus mentioned by Danipier : — "At the
small high island of Tangola there is good anchorage. The island is iiiilif-
forcntly well furnished with wood and water. The main against the island i^
pretty high champion savannah land, by the sea ; but 2 or 3 leagues witliiii
the land it is higher, and very woody."

Capt. Masters describes it thus : — " The Island of Tangolatangola is E.N.E,
3 miles from Guatidco, and makes from the westward as a part of the niai:i
land ; the outer part of it is quite bluff, or rather a cliff of a brownish slom.
the strata of wliicb are horizontal, and it has the same geological appearance i
tiic land on the main nearest it to tlie N.lv, and of tho same height, wmw.
about 150 ft. Witliin tho island, and Kiund the western side, is the cntiiiihi

of (lie

beach

tuJco."

Aecc

Tuscun

ehaimel

t'-Ktend t

I'etweon

about mi(

continui'i,,

'^"hc /iVi

^■i" into ti

"ioutli.

About 8

point of ,S«,

Wanca. 'i'j

tJt'J'th \;ii-ics

t'le shore.

POBr GD

sfcmc h.irbo,

I'ofat. TJjc o,
""w-quarters
i«'t- Thodej
'''"'onis at its J
fhe beach at t\
Jt is li/gi, ^vatc'i
lAirnpier's clj
the best ports i^j
"le harbour, on I
»" <J"-' West Sid]
''"""»' rock, whj
s"""" "oise, whil
'"^<^^fJ' the wateif
'f «ies out j„.st /;]
"• '^'''Py call tij
;■"•"•'"•). Ui'on whJ
'-'■"'^'■n them,, J
'"'^'•'' to find the }J

/^'-sdoscrfptfoj
"'"*'"' -'"'mous/b, J

•'li

I'OKT GUATULCO
of the Bay of Tangolatangola At ,, , »3

beach; the anchorage is sairl . . "*"" ^^ 'ho bay is i fin„

tulco." ^ ''''^ '° be very good in it, but not V . ""'^

^ "*^' equal to Gnu-
According to the survey by Comm„ , ^
n^carora, 1879. Tango,: Jg^T^:;^^^^^^^^^^

ehannel a cable wide in its narrowest par, witTT*'' from the coast by a
extend to the N.W. of the island. The 17 " '^'' °'''* ^"*''«'"«- Rocks
iKtweon the island and the western IoLTT, ^ ''' ''' '' ' ^^'^ ^
about .nidway on this line. The bay Th 1 '' '""/ ""''°™^'-^ •" '««'tho„H
cont.„u„.g to bo of the same width '"'^' ^"'" ^^ '^^^'-'^ to the N W

About 8 cables S.W. of Iho Uv , •
"T "'"" " " ""•" '«'« or rook L :i ' ""'» «-^' "-I ".o PWr.

.trrr '""■ " •» " '-«- >» ^zz::: :;;;- -' -^^

POET GUAmC0.bc, .o ,bo . "■"■.'W.o..

l<"»>. .le el,,„„ol bot„.oo„ boi„,. ;,,,t,, '""' ' """=' ''■■^■''- of Puoto

;-•■ ^'^■''l'". Sra.ua,,, .b„rk„, ''1'^ """° ""»"" "' '" "-o"-

'■ ; '"■.'. ya,o,, „u fu,,!:: : o::,'4r;: ?- ^- ■»« »" r ;:

:;■ i-fll

7 ""•■ «'■=»' "lo, half a „,i,o f„„ °Z J"° "!"'•' "'••' H 'he .horo ■ „„°

i-i«w „,ok, ,.„io„, b, .1,0 oo„rua,': " " ^ 1 T ""■'«»"■• "■"» " " Lr

;;'"' "».»""'' out of a U,t,o h„,o o" nil": "'"J ™'e» «l«t com™ i„
• «.o^ ou, „« ,ito He b,„™^, „f „ j; . '»f • "» °« of a „i,,o. f„„, „,h„,^.^.

«■ '-y o.,l ,|,i, „o,. and spouVtl'b ;?''''•■''''"'"•*»'» .ikon
'* .»"»„, ,„at,-„s ,bo waurs,,,, „ f " "■"""" "■«""» 'ho c"

i '

' . Pa
.!■ 'J

l%> ■

1 i

.1 <'ir *

f 1 t

"• i

!'-•

U<>! \

1 <,

u;.' *

/ u

1^1 ^

H \

ifl i I

* \

':-i

;/»■■!

THE WEST COAST OF MEXICO.

ill

iii I

r:',t

■ ' i
1 j

i ' 1

i 1
i {

iij..

"The harbour runs in N W., but the West side of the harbour is best to
ride in for small ships, for there you may ride land-locked, whereas anywhere
else you arc o|)en to the S.W. winds, which often blow here. There is good
clean ground anywhere, and good gradual soundings from 1 6 to 6 fathoms ; it
is bounded by a smooth, sandy shore, very good to land at, and at the bottom
of the harbour there is a fine brook of fresh water running into the sea. Here
formerly stood a small Spanish town or village, which was taken by Sir Francis
Drake ; but now there is nothing remaining of it besides a little chapel si .d-
ing among the trees, about 200 paces from the sea."*

The following remarks, by Capt. Masters, will complete the description : —
Santa Cruz, Port of Aguatulco ( Gua(ulco), is very difficult to make ; it is
situated in a small bay, at the bottom of which is a sandy beach ; on its eastern
part two huts are built, not visible unless close in-shore. The Piedra Ulanca
is a reef of rocks extending N.E. by E. and S.W. by W. about a quarter of a
mile ; the western part of the reef is nearly 40 ft. high, and for about one-third
of its length it is of the same elevation ; but the remaining two-thirds to the
eastward is low, in places level with the water. When abreast of it and off
shore a few miles, it appears to be a part of the coast. Although it is called
Piedra Blanca, it is a dark irregular-shaped reef of rocks.

The anchorage in Guatulco is said to be good. It is well sheltered from all
winds, except between East and S.E. by S. ; but, as the strongest winds blow
from the northward, except in the rainy season, it may be considered a very
safe port. It is the only place that can be considered a harbour to the eastward
of Acapulco, and even in the rainy season I was informed that a vessel might
lay there in perfect safety. The depth of water in the bay is Irom 7 to 9
fathoms, with a clear bottom.

When about 5 miles off the shore from the Bufaderc, the western extreme
point of land has a broken rocky appearance, and is not so high as the land
adjoining. When about 2 leagues off shore from the Ijufadero, another cape,
farther to the westward, can be seen. Its extreme point is rather low, but
rises gradually inl;ind to a moderate elevation.

To the westward of Santa Cruz are two bluff heads, which, when abreast of
them, might be taken for islands. The first is about 3 miles from the port,
the other is 2 miles farther to the westward, and has a white sandy beach, from

a long distance. They aro also seen, too, lit times, urouiiJ the basea of icebergs, and there
was one, the Devil's Trumpet, on the coast of UornwuU. Other instances, less striking,
might be adduced of those singuhirities, which are well worthy of a soiinian's iitti,nti().n,
showinji;, as they do, the power the waves exert, which, to raise such a column of water U3
above mentioned, must bo from 3 to 5 tons per square foot.

• (ruatulco seems to have been an unfortunate place during the buccaneering expeditions
against the Spaniards, for Sir Francis Drake sacked the place in 1674, and it was burnt in
1S87 by Sir Thomas Cavendish, aiiuuig other places. The reader will tiud oiany notices of
lliose uud similar incidents in Admiriil Duruoy's coUtctiuu,

WjiR./, I

tho 0()a.<

/oaj^-ues,

and n rk

diUerns.

''"e niou,

'">fi, as ti

'i'ho I>o,

n fortni^^ht

""t i'assed

«hich were

"'cy arc bui

■^f about I

"'"'"t ■•» qiiav

''■1.V to the -\v

''■'"i i-oefcs.

"'« ''q'th is a

'"» '^'orth, she

nt 3^5-; the

'^' 2^ cab/es

"■'f'"H-t.over

''"'^ point is an

™'"''>R from the

"■'■•''"•a'd of the

'^''"^ '«nd wind

^'JmetmicsatS.^l

^^'esfvvard of d

"''"'^'i to the ford

"'''"'^^' fays, off

";"°'''---"itis

"'.'•"" must he or
'-"'•'Sfl-.thoms.'
;7-n tra,,e ,wJ
■■' "'"^ tJ'c ebb tj

[ , • 's"> the CM

„,,. i''""y s,av,.„J

., ■-'^''"■^•" miJos J

«(t shore. T(,„ I

ij 'hecoasti

^vl.ich to the nufatj.ro the "

•i'ho mountains aZt "" "' '^""^^^'^ '^bove the st ' f '^^ '""^« °f the Co"'
'■'■^"•. - the, cants ?"" '"■^''^'- -'-" ea„„o bo ^ ^ "' ''"" ''««««

"^"■•-■■.'hti„.oarehi„;;V/'^dto.a,.ethat vessels have he
-^ P"««ed it. although we V ''"' ''^ '''^ ^''^^test chan "^^'^'-'^^ ^^

^^'"^h were on the beach ""* '* '"''^ f^m th! k ^"'^'''^^ ^'^ had

t'.ey are huiU. "^' ^"" ^^^^'^ ^^ ^i^tfngni^^^ „:^-- '^'^« ^- huts

/^•^•^outen^nes WestofGu . , '^^ ^'^'^ *-- near which

n''o..t a quarter of a „„'! , "''" '^ =» «™«" green isl. , ,

'^y ^o the West of th i , It;"" '* -h,e off tt ^"'^ ^"^^ '^-->/..
"■'■"■ '"^ks. The her u ' ^"' '^^ "''^nd is surr. ?f ' ^^'''^ '' « small

"•^ "^Tth is aL; ;:7f r^ '"^ ^— ; rd'::',^. ''- ^^- "-"

'■"»" ^orth, sheltered from T' "'^' ^^^ ^'"ff at th ; , "^' ""■"• -^--e

~»ns from the „„, 'J ? ": °™' '•■ The p„„ ;, ,^^> ^J » «■ from ,l,e
""•»'o ^ if

"1'™^'' to the foroi. n ' f ' ^'^'^''' the port for •"' '" °" ^'^^ «hore

'"'" °^ '^ •-" It is a br d : ''T '■'" ^°"o-in,f i ;^T;' "'" "« ' ^ n.iles
^*' There is ^ood ..T ^''" ''"J' "''th two or t, ^^^^U^er's descrin.

::'T ""- CrttZini"^-^^ ^"^ '^y ^" ^vtor^fa:: '''^" ^^'-

'-- ''^ fatho„,s ; 3-0,. ,vill tl ''''^' ''•'^ '■•'"<! winds ,,-f'^°'"^ ^^•''^'^'■.

"■'•• •^'"' t''^ ebb to the S V ..'"'^^ '^'""^ ^ ft.; the « ;■ ^"^'^'^ ''^^'^ the

/'-'■^-"-nos westward of Port^ , " '"'^

» "^at soa fjiiig jj^i^^^^

♦ '

iW' ■■■■.»■

■:,'. • :V

- •: . -h-T^'

■'• u]

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tfliv .", V

THE WEST COAST OF MEXICO.

I I

■i, !■!-:: ■■■■I

w-m

According to the U.S. survey of 1870, the cntrnncc of Port Angeles is nearly
3 cablce wide, and it thence extends about half a mile to the northward, its
narrowest part being 1 i cable across, between Bufadcros Bluff, 200 ft. high,
and the island on the western shore. The depth in the entrance is 12 to 13
fathoms, shoaling to 6 and 5 fathoms at its head. The mail steamers call
here.

The coast westward of Port Angeles, as far as Acapulco, is very little known ;
several rivers and lagoons empty thcmsiclves into the sea, as shown on the chiirt.
Capt. Parker states that in long. 97" 3' there is a high bluff with huts on it,
and in 97^ 48' is the Rio Verde, in the neighbourhood of which the water is
much discoloured in rainy weather. There arc some huts a few miles to the
eastward of the Eio Verdo.

Near Alcatras Rocks, two white rocks in about long. 97° 25 W., the land
is moderately high and wooded ; farther inland it is mountainous. A few huts
lie to the westward of them. At 5 or 6 miles to the West of the Alcatras are
seven or eight white eliffsi by the sea, whicli are very remarkable, because
there arc none so white nor so close togctiier on all the coast. It is said that
a dangerous shoal lies S. by W. from tli • cliffs, 4 or 5 miles off at sea. Two
leagues to the West of these cliffs there is a tolerably large river (or entrance
to a lagoon), which forms a small island nt its mouth, "''e eastern channel
is shallow aud sandy, but the western channel is deep cnuugh for canoes to
enter.

Maldonado Poiut, — The coast and shoals in the vicinity of this point were
examined by the U.S. surveyors, in 1878, aud the following information is taken
from their report.

Escondido or El Recodo, he western extremity of Maldonado Point, is in lat.
16-" 18' 40' N., long. 98° 32' W. Clo.se under the point is a small bight, where
there is good landing, at a mile from which fresh water may be obtained in
abundance. The coast for 6 miles westward of Maldonado Point consists of
sandy cliffs, 200 to 300 ft. high, divided by ravines ; for 2 miles to the eastward
it is rocky, with the exception of two small sandy beaches. The country is
thickly wooded, and Cuacaul Peak, about 2 miles S.E. of El Recodo, is 400 ft.
high ; the Beehive, 3 miles N.W. of the point, and about a mile inland, is of
the same elevation. At the close of the dry season the land is frequently
obscured by smoke, when vessels should not approach within the depth of 20
fathoms.

Tartar Shoals, on which H.M.S. Tartar struck, March 4th, 1863, lie about
2 miles S.W. of Maldonado Point. The most dangerous outer patches lie
within a space of 1 J mile N.W. by W. and S.E. by E., between a patch of
16 ft. and one of 18 ft, and near the central part of this space are two sunken
rocks, with 7^ ft. and 13J ft. over them respectively, lying about 2 miles
S.W. J S. from the extremity of Maldonado Poiut. Shoal water also extends

U mile to tl

3 fathoms, oi

i'nssing ve

fathoms. 1'J

K. by S. and

E.S.E. Dun"

Off Cuacaul

fathoms, sheit

I'he River J

is stated to lie

This celebrat(

among the plae

prosperity to th

that power beeai

its level as a har

capability of the

is very limited, a)

minor importance

In addition to
drawbacks to any
pernicious to Eur<
marshy tract to tli
up, and occasions
under a tropieal
be diffused, a fruit
in the vicinity.

lioing entirely si

and the usual bree

ficial cut was made

and this has caused

Kartlujuakes are

becoming a substan

earthquakes, the hci

stason is also anothi

about the middle or

to the immediate vi(

2.790 ft.), the fall is

ill l«y7, the rain gau

^'or/h Pacific.

ACAPITLCO.

IJ mile to the W. by N. of the point, and near the outer end Is a patch of 2 to
3 t'atlioms, on the southern extremity of whicli is a wreck.

I'nssing vessels will avoid these shoals by not eoming within the depth of 20
fiitlioms. The current sets in a south-easterly direction, varying between
E. by S. and S.S.E., from a half to 2 knots per hour; stnmgest on the ebb,
E.S.E. Diiring the wet season the current is said to set W. by N.

Off Cuacaul Point, from 2 to 3 miles distant, there is anchorage in 8 or 10
fathoms, sheltered from the S.W. by the shorls.

The River Duke lies about 12 miles N.W. of Middonado Point; Clio Rock
is stated to lie 3 miles off it, at 3 miles from shore, with ti fathoms around it.

ACAPULCO.

This celebrated seaport has sadly fallen from the high position it once Wd
among the places of commercial importance in the world. It owt'd all its
prosperity to the system pursued by the Spanish colonial j)olicy, and, when
that power became annihilated in the new world, Aeapulco descended, not to
its level as a harbour, for it is one of the finest in the world, but to that of the
capability of the surrounding country in supporting it. This, as is well known,
is very limited, and the foreign trade that it has across the Pacific is of very
minor importance. The population now amounts to about 3,000.

Ill addition to the changes in its external relations, it has some very serious
drawbacks to any permanent prosperity. The climate is extremely hot, and
pernicious to European constitutions. This is increa.sed by the proximity of a
marshy tract to the East of the town. During the dry season this marsh dries
up, and occasions the death of great quantities of small fish, whose decay
under a tropical sun causes no ordinary amount of pestilential vapours to
be diffused, a fruitful source of the putrid bilious fevers so prevalent here and
in the vicinity.

licing entirely surrounded with high mountains, the sun has intense power
and the usual breezes are ir a measure intercepted. To remedy this, an arti-
ficial cut was made through the chain of rocks which surrounded the town,
and this has caused a freer circulation of air.

EartlKjuakes are a great scourge to Aeapulco, and must prevent its ever
becoming a substantial town ; at present it is poor and mean. Besides the
earthquakes, the heaviest of which occur between March and June, the rainy
stason is also anothe" great drawback, and is felt here severely. It commences
about the middle or end of July, and continues until the end of October. Owing
to the immediate vicinity of a very lofty chain overlooking the town (one of
2.'90 ft.), the fall is heavy and almost incessant. It has been asserted that,
ill 1h;S7, the rain gauge frequently indicated 28 inches in 24 hours. During
Aurlh Pavijic. o

THE WEST COAST OF MEXICO.

1 '-•

if .,;■■:

I'l ' '■!*' '

1 j| •' ■•'•(!'

1 i

;-." r'

this period the Inhabitants are compelled to use every precaution to keep their
houses dry, particularly under foot ; a neglect of this is suj)posed to produce
fever. The heat during this period is excessively oppressive, especially in May,
when the temperature seldom falls below 98^. Water then becomes scarce,
and, towards the end of the dry season, the ponds run dry, and wells aro their
only resource. — Sir K. Iklchtr.

It has been well surveyed, and the plan from the united observations of Sir
Edward IJelcher and M. dc Tessan, the IIydrograj)hical Engineer to the expe-
dition of Admiral Du Petit Thouars, in the Venus, with the later survey by the
U.S. officers in 187'.), will give a perfect idea of the port.

It consists principally of one extensive basin, in an angle of which, on the
N.W. side, stands the town. At its head are some whitisli rocks, the I'iedras
lirunvas, named also San Lorenzo and Karallon del Obispo, useful as marks in
entering. There are two entrances, form' ' by lioqueta or Gri/o Island. That
to the North of it is called the Boca Chica, or Little Entrance, and is narrow.
The principal entrance is between the South point of llo(iueta {Siclata Point)
and the S.l'l. point {Bruja Point) of the harbour, and is above 1 J mile in width.
It is quite clear.

The entrance into Acapulco lies about midway between the East and West
extremes of a high portion of the coast, which stands forward in a very pro-
minent way to the southward of the rest of the coast ; the centre part is the
highest, probably about 3,000 ft. above the sea.

Both ends run off to bluff points ; the eastern one is called Point Bruja, and
is distinguishable by its presenting a set of steep white cliffs ; it is succeeded
on the eastern side by a long line of white sandy beach, backed by a lower
range of country, which reaches to the foot of the hills.

The entrance of the harbour, when bearing North, has Point Bruja on the
East, and a small promontory on the W^est, not unlike each other, and both
having white cliffs.

The entrance may also be distinguished by a remarkable white rock, the
Farallon del Obispo, 148 ft. high, which lies nearly abreast of the middle part
of the white beach at the bottom of the Bay of Acapulco ; this may be scon
^vith ease at the distance of 10 or 12 miles, when it bears on any point of the
•compass between N. i W. and N.E. by N. ^ N. by compass; in other cases it
is shut in, either by the land near Port Marques, or by the Island of KoqueUis,
off the entrance.

Port Marques, an inlet l^ mile in depth, lies to the eastward of Point
Bruja ; its entiance between Diamante Shoal and the const to the N.W. of it,
is 7i cables wide. It is not easily made out till within 5 or 6 miles. In the
entrance the depths arc 18 to 20 fathoms, the shores quite bold-io, and in tlie
inner basin from 10 to 15 fathoms, but near its head, within the depth of 5
fathoms, is a sunken rock.

Hoqueta, or Grifo Island, is 1 J mile West of Point Bruja, that being the

Width of

from a w

"tfiiiiicrs f

ft'i't in hei

rock, whip

Piter cithe

iiciiily a mi

called Sani,

Tlicre are i

n'xMit ,3 filth

f'oni the Cas

of going.

S'ljjjjlics ai
fowls, 'llicn
t'le buoys abo
discharge nlon
'i'hcrc can L
Jt is understoo(
^ohy pronionto:
without any Jo,
cvcrywJiere pre,
its face is laid b
of a massy cJmrn
The ancliorng
two white rocks,
canted to the sea
f'lstwurd, and m
Jong tabular top,
there is no diffiJi
shore f,om the eai
sfa. and terminatii
''■"« •» high, and o
'^y to distinguisi
perhaps mistake so
The paps of Coy,
"^nsofdistinguis]

;-^^-W.ofthepr
, ""Ik. as a castle or

"hrupt precipice faci
^•"■te level; the top
■s 'a abrupt height;
nK not very unlike

""'^^'•guJar peaked t

■-— *«

ACAPULCO.
wuiili of tlie Rocn Oninde An,,. 99

^'■'"" a white .ooden toue,- 0;^?'' "''' "^'''^ '^ ^ ^ -"cs. is shown
stom.uTs are oxpcctcl A. '"'"""^ «f t»'is island „.u '"'""*"

f-t in height. cX ,7 t " ^""^' ««• »« N-K- end is a i "• T '"»''

-.k, which i :: " ft' f '-'V. ""'^ «»* n-rl, s eabut ::;;;';•• !^'"""- ^"
"v * It. above h <>-h wnfo- nu ■ "* ""« is a sinnll

Jlxre are 1,0 dan-ers in \ 1 *^ "''''<^'' '« the town nf a , '

it is understood that its l»f;. / *'' ""* ^''^ situation of this hn^K

. f, '" '" latitude IS 16^ 50' AT j , narbour, Mhcn

lo% promontory, which maintains its heU;' f ''"' '' " ^"'"^^d ou by a
-thout any low land; this high Cd "' " ,°'"^*"^" *« »'- very s'„

■l™p. i-reoipioe facing .|,t T™'"' "» » l»p.. Ih Is fiT ' '

^^'^Ja'^d between this aad

' ' ' h^

i v ' f

ill, 1

too

TIIK WKST COAST OF MEXICO.

* mm

: '

1 '-

"I '
'( ")

i 1 i

''■'

'I ':

Arapuico Rin\.<i conRidernlily, and Uiotigh it Rtill rcmnina a tolcrablu height, the
promontory is 'ilwnyn KuHicit-ntly conspicuous.

Wlien its extreme Soutli point hearti about Ka.st, and iiileed when it bears
considerably to the northward of Eust, there in uo high laud to be seen beyuud
it to the eastward.

At the di.stance of 7 or B leagues the land about Point liruja makes like an
inland. — Jiusil //all.

Sir Edward Belcher snys (January 12, 1838): — We made the high paps
of Coyuca, to the wcstwai I of Acapulco ; but I cr.nnot persuade myself that
they are good landmarks fur making the port. In the oHing they may be useful
if tw/ obscured.

Acapulco may be approached from the southward or wcptword, by keeping
the western cone open of the land, which will lead 'ip to the Uoca Chica en-
trance, or until Acajjulco port is so cl.,.,c und' r the lee, that no further marks
are necessary. There is no hidden dungvr in the entrance to Acapulco. Keep
a moderate distance from either shore ; 5 fathoms will be found alongside all
the rocks, und 25 to 30 fathoms in i.iid-channel. Round Point Grifo sharp,
rather than stand over to San Lorenzo, as the wind, generally westerly, heads
on ti\at shore. If working, tnck when the rocks ou the South point of Town
Hay show in the gap.

The two best berths are off the rocks alluded to ; that outside is preferable ;
but in either case let the outer rock bear W.lS.W. or W.N.W., so that n hawser
last to the rock may kcej) your broadside to land or sea breezes, and prevent a
foul anchor.

The Harbour of Acapulco has long been reckoned, for its size, one of the
most comi)lete in the world. It allords sheltered, landlocked anchorage of 16
fathoms and .i.'ider in a surface of 1 mile square ; which, allowing for moorings,
would, at half a cable's range, or 1 cable asunder, accommodate 100 Siil of
Tesscls, even of the line. The bottom is sandy at its surface, but clayey
beneath, and holds well.

It would naturally be inferred thnt, surrounded on its North and East sides
by mountains ranging from 2,000 to 2,700 f t , end by others ol' 300 to 500 ft.
on th West, the breeze would scarcely be felt, and the lieat be intolerable,
'i'his is confined to the town limits. At our observatory (Capt. Belcher's), and
it the j)ort, San Carlos, we enjoyed a c jnstant breeze.

In all harbours there miiy be objccti nable berths, but in that of Acapulco,
if care be taken to keep in the line of what I have designated " West Gaii, '
or neck of the peninsula op m of the South point of the town bay, both land
and sea breezes will be felt in their full ritrtr.gth, and free from causes which
would heat them before entering the port, the neck being but a few feet above
the sea-level.

Water of ^ood quality was found at .'•evoral points between the fort and j
Obispo Eock; but the two best streams aic between the fort iiad Sanl.oicuzi

;^^^^;;.et eonleal .u.n.nit.s I, "•'"'* "^'^ « ^-'1 gui... ."''""'"'''"^

"•entwar.! of Acapulco , '" ^^''"''•''^•". ""J 20 fW,„ To " ' '' '''^''

--t two di.tin,.t^„::;' !'-''• ^' ''-" ^'-ta„ce„/;j'v''";'- '■''^•'"""

""^ "'"re dLsfnnt n *^" "'^ «^'^'n J the nearer one n) ""''" '"'•'"n the

be seen on the on.^"'" ^''''"- ^^- by K. A.' ' \ ^ ""°"' ^^-^'r ^,000 ft

« -r 10 „,i,es of t, ' ""^ ' to between 2.000 and 3 n w T ""'"'" "««"«
^•''«:v coast, a. „,, ,n • '"*'' '^'""'^ ^^ -en .,;• H "• ^''•'^» -thin
"^ t'^e .oca Chfea '' ^"'"^ '^^^ ^^^ -"> land nortl,! 711"" ' '?'' ^•^"''-•
I)ian.ante Point wJ ' . ^"* *''*^ ''"'™"«o

--'and«tthedi;tance„fT"r''''''^''''*^™«-tremeofth , ,

" ^-- the South po nt T '""" = ^'^ ''- ^ of pI t ^ ' '""'' ^''"-^ ««

«'^V. or southward L "°"''' ^'''^^ low. M„ki„ . ^'^"'"' "^'^'''^'b

"ff- There i, ,? ^"^■"''« "'"^ «Jso «ee„ but fh "' " ^""•^'''^•'abJe

winch i« u . : ," ;■ '^^ --Jen tower on tie ^ "''"" ^"^'"^ »"!'-- cu

'^'^"^-P-t 1 mile and r.? , " ''"" «' « ^istane „f f ' "'"^' ""^ «'-
'.vi"g eastward of Cn2 "' *'^ '•^-'' "^ I^ „, e off T "' ^"'^ ^'"'"t
I'o'-nt, until Grifo pZ" ""^ '"^ '''^""'•^'' by steeri 1 1 J "'^'^^ ^''*^ -^k
^•^- points ar ^ l^ 7" ''''-™. -ben haul u fhlrf ^f -^^ '"^ ^^^^
'f ;^ - the buoy s^ t^:;^;;^:" «^ - ^^e dark^^'^:^ ^ J ^^^^^ ^°--
«< tbe Con3,,any's coal sh ^ ^ '''"""' '^^ two «uds i„ /r", ^"'^ ^« "«
-"•'^ take a departure t T' ''''' ^■"^ «"d «'," " ^° ^'^ "«''t

-•-«p-iusto::i HfT^ ^^'^'-^^ «oek Off Por:^:r'•°"^^^--'-
'/ ^^- ^I- de Petit-Tholf ?' r '"" ""'^ ^^-^^. «t 6^ 6- • th •
f ^^•^'- varying, fro. Cc hJlf ." ''"' ''"''''^^ ^^^ port th^ "" " "'^"^
""^•^^bb. In case of *" ^ '"''^s an hour K """""^ "'"« to

, '-: -t toX::::;^;-ora,e ean betil^^^ ^^P^^ ^-n,
"'^ beaches of Coyuca n ^^r^'"''" ^'^ ^'^-' ^nd formed h ^ ^™"^'«-
^-"y bay to the Wei that ' ' ""^ «° ^'-'^^''y upoTtl ^ "* '' ""''^^
!'' '^ '^ ^-oJ clean gr'ul; '' ," ""'""''^^'^ »° get Vj.^" ^^'^^ ^^g' «baUow.

^"'■"^ ■■'-Hi ...her trees w ' . """^ "'"''erately fertile n 7 "'' ■^^°'-«-

J ■ • 'ifre are

'.' • 1!?' '.' ' -^

1 ' I ft f: lU tf W^H

'" i si

te i i a y ei ffa>>j jw a i ^ ^

103

THE WERT COAST OF MEXICO.

.IV '

also m.iny vlllngos. The land-wind here is generally from the N.E,, and tlie
son -breezes from S.W.

The Paps of Coynca, serviceable as a tnark for approaching Acapulco, have
been bef.c n itioed. They are remarkable and rau" be readily distinguihhed,
08 Capt. Ik'lcher says, " when not obscured." According to the chiirt, they
are in about lat. 17° 2' N., long. 100'" 6' W.

At alnut 71 miles W. by N. ^ N. from Roqueta Island is Point Tequepa,
also named Jequepa or Papanoa, with a hill on it, 527 ft. high. Between this
point and an islet named Morro de las Animas, 112 ft high, nearly 3 miles to
N. by \V. ^ W., the coast forms a slender bay, in the S.E. angle of which is a
11 nc-kiln. According to the survey by the officers of the U.S.S. Juscarora,
1879, there is anchorage in 11 fathoms, sand, at C cables N. by E. i E. from
Point Tequepa, the lime-kiln bearing S.E. J S.

About 26 miles N.W. by W. i W. from Point Tequepa is the Morro de
Petatlan, 640 ft. high, which may be known by Poloci or White Friar Rocks
lying a mile off it.

"The hill of Petaplan (Petatlan) is a round point stretching out into the
sea, appearing at a disUince like an island. A little to the West of this hill
are several round rocks." Dampier anehorcd on the N.W. side of the hill,
passing inside of these rocks, between them and the round point, where he had
11 fathoms water. According to the U.S. survey of 1879, these rocks extend
half a mile W. J N. and E. J S., varying from 25 ft. to 200 ft. in height, with
deep water close to them. In the bay to the northward of the Morro there
is anchorage in 8 fathoms, sand, 3 cables off shore.

PORT SIHUANTANEJO, about 7 miles N.W. of Petatlar., was surveyed
by Capt. Kellett, R.N., in 1847, and bj' the officers of the U.S.S. Tuscarura,
iu 1879. From their plans it would appear to be an excellent harbour, but
open to the S.W. There is no hidden danger going in, and the entrance, half
a mile wide, is sufficiently marked by the bold coast to require no directions.
The position of the observations, at the head of the port, Capt. Kellett places
in lat. 17" 38' 3' N. 'i'he U.S. officers make the position of tlicir observation
spot, about 1^ cable S.W. of the villiige at the head of the bay, to be in lat.
IT"' 37' 66" N., long. 101" 33' 3" W. There is anchorage iu 8 fathoms, sand
and mud, near the centre of the port.

There is no mark by which this port can be recognised from far off at sea,
eo that vessels must make some known point of the coa.st and then coast along
the shore. A large rock lies IJ mile S. J W. from the middle of the entrance
to the port. Water may be procured from a lake at the head of the bay, but
it is brackish near the sea.

Istapa or Isla Grande Bay, according to the U.S. survey of 1879, is
formed by the irregular-shaped Ldand of Istapa or Estapa, and the coast. 'I'he
anchorage is in about 5 fathoms, a quarter of a mile N.E. by E. ^ E. from the
easternmost of the rocks off the North point of the island. A rock, awash,

MANGROVE ni.UFP-TEJTTrAN BLUFF.

103

with 8 fathoms around it, lies 4^ cables N. by W. J W. from the same rock.
On the coast, eastward of the island, is Mount Istapa, 720 ft. high.

Dampicr pasf ed along this coast, and says : — " About 2 leagues West from
Petaplan is Cheqtiictan (Sihuantanejo ?). At 1^ miles from the shore is a small
bay, and within it is a very good harbour, where ships may cai-een ; there is
also a small river of fresh water, and sufficient wood." lie landed at EbUtpa,
6 or 7 miles to the W.N.W. of Sihuantanejo.

To the West of Estapa, Dampier says the land is high, and full of ragged
hills ; and West from these ragged hills the land makes many pleasant and
fertile valleys among the mouuUiins.

All this coast is lined with villages and salt-works (salines), worked by tho
inhabitants. The approach to 'he coast is clear, but there is no safe an-
chorage, and there is not a single important river. That of Sacatula or
Zacalula, which comes from the Volcan de Jorullo, as also the Rios Camula
and Coalcaman, are not navigable. Capt. O. 11. Richards says that the
former, on the l'',ast side of Mangrove Bluff, must be a very small one, for
nothing of the kind could be made out from the masthead at the distance of
IJ mile.

Mangrove Bluff, a low, but well-defined point, 30 to 40 ft. high, in hit.
17° 54' r>' N., long. 102° 17' W., is the western extreme of a deep bay, at ihe
head of which tlie Canuta or Sali-pils are marked in the chart.

A higli and very remarkable mountain rises over the East side of the Salt
Fit Bay, and Blancos Isles, southward of Istapa Bay, are very conspicuous
objects. They are three white islets or rocks, the easternmost being thu
largest, square, and something like a haystack in shape.

Froni Mangrove Bluff the coast trends about W. by N., nearly straight, with
no remarkable feature for a distance of 52 miles to Lizard Point, which is low
and cliffy.

Soundings, — At. the distance of 8 miles eastward of Lizard Point there is
from 35 to 40 fathoms, at 3 miles from the shore, which continues until np-
linmching Mangrove Bluff; and, singularly enough, at the distince of 3 miles
ti) thiT westward of the bluff, and scarcely 2 miles from the beach, there is 132
fiiilioms, mud bottom.

Imiuediatcly South of the bluff, and nearly 2 miles from it, there is only 14
fiithdius, shingle bottom ; and the same depth, or less, continues for 3 or 4
iiiiks to the eastward, parallel with and at the same distance from the coast,
whvn the water suddenly deepens.

Tejupan Bluff is 26 miles W. by N. ^ N. from Lizard Point, the coast
lu't\vei.'n being generally steep, and rising .smucwliat abruptly to 2,000 feet.

i\t 10 miles eastward of Tejiipan is the only remarkable intermediate point.
Tliroo white rocks lie off it, in an E.S.E. direction, and a sandy bight is formed
to the westward. Inside them, there is a fertile-looking spot, with a village,
luul j.'.abahly landing, and shelter for boats.

'Mi

V:'

"KHMnillllliiiV

THE WEST COAST OF MEXICO.

'te: > ''

iC>: :

The bluff ia bolil and cliffy, with two small rocky islets off it. Amhorago
in 1 (') fathoms was found 7 miles south-eastward of the head, a mile from the
shore. The hills rise in successive ranges parallel with the coast to the
westward, the nearer ones from l,oOO to 2.000 ft. high, the more distant much
higher.

The Pap8 of Tejupan, a mountain ."i.SG? ft. high, with a double nipple
summit, lie !21 miles E.X.E. from the bluif of the same name, and although
remarkable in passing up or down the coast, would scarcely be so from sea-
ward, in consequence of the back ranges rising to a greater elevation.

Coliina Mountain, 12,000 ft. high, and 15 miles inland, is visible from this
part of the coast, and very remarkable when seen distinctly ; but the haze,
which generally hangs over thv^ distant land, renders this seldom the case, and
it therefore cannot be counted upon as a landmark. It is a saddle-shaped
mountain, having two sharp conical summits, apparently nearly the same
height ; the horizontal measurement between them from olf Tejupan Bluff is
45 miles.

Black Head is 18 miles N.W. from Tejupan Bluff, the coast between being
composed alternately of sandy beach and high uliff. Black Head is a clitly
peninsula, 457 ft, high, in lat. 18^ 36' 18' N., long. 103" 45' 30' \V., and is
connected to the shore by a sandy neck. X small white rock, 47 ft. high, lies
half a mile N.W. of the northern -extreme of tiic peninsula, and a baj- i.s formed
to the northward of the rock, where there is anchorage in fine weather in 1 1
fathoms, 1^ mile offshore.

Marnata, a new Mexican port, is situated between Tejiijjan Bluff and Black
Head, in lat. 18^ 27' N., long. 103'" 33' W., according to Comraandtr Main-
waring, H.M.S. Cameleon, 1874. The village, consisting of the custom-house
(a hut) and four or five Indian huts, is situated on the North side of a creek
communicating with a large lagoon. The anchorage is bud. being exposed to
nil winds from seaward, except N.W., and the shelter from that quarter is
indifferent ; the bottom is loose sand. Coasters anchor in 3^ fathoms, about a
cable from the shore.

Food is scarce, and water bad. The locality is unhealthy. Communication
with the interior is by bridle i)aths only, the nearest town of importance being
Colima, 150 miles distant. Brazil-wood is shipped during the fine seasuii
occasionally.

Gold diggings exist on the Eivor Ostula, about 15 miles northward of Mar-
nata, and silver mines near Cualcoman. u town situated 1:20 miles in the interior,
and containing about 1,500 inhabitants.

From Black Head the coast trends about W.N.W. 43 miles, to the eastern
point of Manzanilla Bay ; it is low and sandy, varying from 20 to 27 ft. in
height.

MANZANILLA was visited by Sir Edward Belcher in 1838, and by Oapt,
G. H. Kichards in 1H(')3. The bay (or harbour) is about 5 miles wide, and is

divided in
to the Eas
and this is
but safe, th

The port

rainy seasoi

its immedza

fcsted by m

nearly impot

many years,

port itself ha

population is

miles inland,

for the mail si

Capt. G. H

fI'Me Islet,

the sandy beac

firahani, at a d

hit'h, wedge-shi

the resort of nu

and m;iy be see;

a distance of n(

land. It can b

when bcai-inc fi-

-^fdnzanilla /]
point of entranc
wk, resembling.
«estv»-ard they
ward, the Vigia
mikk the sail r
chorage. As ne
'^a,^ood mark
and the same df
tiraudt will bear
'fhis course will
•''t;roupnf«vero,
^''•^^^ hftween the

'">'i. iii^cH over thj
P'"-'- '''he ancho,
"' a mile from tl;

'-<iww T7gy

MANZANILLA.

105

divided into two bays on the North side by Punta de la Aitdiencla. The bay
to the East is Manzanilla, and that to the West Santiayo or Brownimj liny,
and this is the best watering-place. Sir E. Belcher states that the bay is small
but safe, the anchorage is good, but the water brackish.

The port is well protected against the southerly winds prevalent during the
rainy season ; but, ou account of a very considerable lake of stagnant water in
its immediate neighbourhood, it is vory unhealthy during the summer. In-
fested by myriads of mosquitoes and sand-flies, even in the dry season, it is
nearly imjiossiblc to reside there. It has been open to foreign commerce for
many years, but has not been able to make much progress. Till lately, the
port itself had only a few houses and huts in the S.E. part of the bay, but the
population is now said to be over 4,000 ; the first adjacent town is Colima, 80
mik'S inland, with which it is connected by a railway. It is a coaling depot
for t!ie mail steamers, and silver ore is also shipped here.

Capt. G. H. Richards gives the following account of it: —
White Islet, or I'iedra Blanca of Manzanilla, lies off the eastern extreme of
the sandy beach which runs in almost a straight line for 13 miles from Vnpe
Graham, at a mile from the shore. It is a (piarter of a mile long and 300 ft.
high, wedge-shaped when seen from the westward, and remarkably white, being
the resort of numerous sea-birds. This islet is the mark for Manzanilla I?ay,
and may be seen from the westward iinniediately on rounding Navidad Head,
a distance of nearly 20 miles ; it then apj)ear8 just inside the extreme of the
land. It can be seen easily from a vessel's deck at a distance of 16 miles,
when bearing from E. ^ S., round by North to W.N.W.

Mamnnilln Bay is known by this white islet 2.} miles westward of its West
point of entrance. A high rock lies close off this point ; and another white
rock, resembling a sail, at a quarter of a mile off the eastern point. From the
westward they are both remarkable. Appro.aching Maii/anilla from the west-
wnvd, the Vigia Grande, a remarkable cone-shaped hill, will also be seen just
inside the sail vock. It is 740 ft. higli, and rises immediately over the an-
chorage. As neither the hotises nor shipping can be seen from seaward, this
is a good mark to steer for, passing from 1^ to 2 miles outside White Islet,
and tiie same distance from the West point of the entrance, when the Vigia
Oriuidi. will bear E, J N., and may be steered for.

This course will lead more than a mile southward of or outside the Sisters,
!i I'-roiip of five rocks, tlie largest of which is 10 ft. iiigh. Tliey lie in a direct
line l)tt\voen the West point of entrance and the Vigia (irande, distant from
the former 22 miles. A very roninrkuble table-topped mountain, 2,000 ft.
liic;ii. rises over the western point of the bay, and is an excellent guide for the
port. The anchorage is immediately under the Vigia (iraiule, about one-third
of a mile from the village, in 9 or 10 fathoms, over mud and good liolding
North Pacijic. y

■I

•J'

! ■" :k ;0- ,"=• ■•'■^ ^

I •.

106

TIIE WEST COAST OF MEXICO.

t ,i

f ii I "^1 1

■ 'i

ground. The West end of Manzanilla village ia in lat. 19" 3' 13" N., long.
10-1'' 20' 11" W.

The bay is safe with all winds except gales from West or S.W., which do
not oceur between the months, of November and June — the dry season, and
singularly oni.ugli, the least healthy; fevers and ague prevail, more or less, at
all times, but arc more f.itul during the dry season. It is not recommended to
lie hero more than four or five days at a time, and to take an olT-shore berth,
where the sea breeze will reach.

Supplii's. — Fresh beef and vegetables, as well as other necessaries, can be
obtrtined here. I'^resh water should on no necoimt be received on board, ami
it is desirable that the crews of vessels should laud as seldom as possible, ami
not be exposed in boats when avoidable."

Water of tolerable quality may be got from a small brook across the bay,
about N.W. from the anchorage. For the purpose of procuring it choose, if
possible, a very calm day. Stow the casks to be filled in the long boat or
launch, and anchor it near the brook at the back of the surf. Hire a canoe to
luiul the ciu-iks, with some iron-bound hogsheads, which are to be rolled across
the strand to the brook, and then filled, which don , haul them with a running
line to the boat, and fill the casks.

The tide occurs every twenty-four hours, the fliwd in the morning and the
ebb in the evening. It rises about 7 ft., and the current runs to the South.
Cood pearls, &c., may be had.

Maiiisanilla is about 20 or 30 leagues' distance from the city of Coh'ma, the
capital of the territcu'y of that name. The road from the sea is suffieientlv
good for carts. Except frecjuent carthciuakes and goitres, with which the
inhabitants are atfected, there is nothing remarkable in the city, which coii-
laius aboirt S0,00u inhabitants, wholly occupied in agriculture and commerce.
— fhtflof (If Mof'ras.

At about 24 miles to the E.X.E. of Manzanilla Bay is the Volcan de ChHiiki,
before mentioned, the westernmost of the Mexican gn>up. lt,s entire height
is 12,003 ft. ; it is in activity, and sulphureous vapours, cinders, and stones are
emitted ; but it has not discharged any lava for a long period. 'J'he dianu-tcr
of its crater is 500 ft., and its mouth is perpei\dicular. 'i'he tiai\ks of the
mountains are barren and clifiy. Tlie sulphur on it is of a bad qualitv. .\t
3 miles North of the volcano there is an extinct crater, which exceeds ihe
former in elevation by 710 ft., and the height of which above the port is
12,713 ft. Its summit is covered with snow, and it may be seen at very groat
distaiices at sea, and otl'crs, when tbe sky is clear, an excellent point of rt'coj,'-
jiition for navigators approaching Man/.anilla.

The valley in whidi Colima is situated seems to be formed of volcanic pro-
kIucIs and decompi)>eil lava. The vcgitation c()n>;ists of palms, aloes, ami
superb orange trees. .Vbove the usual level tlu'se tropical plants are replacwl
by forests of sombre pines.

From

nn nlino

'lie couj

behind, ;

and 4,00(

iiiui there

«AYI1

(ij)nrt, N.I

I'v tlie latl

ivru-2]

After ro

miles, tiie ,

distant 7 m

'"'gh pcakec

show ns del

small rock, (

half a mile.

«"atcr, and t

fatlioms.

'•^s the baj
point, will be
t'lo anchorage
recommended
K^'tti'ig out wi]
"ith Harbour
from the oastel
"ith the point
SHell.

^ "'"gle hoii,j
''*'"■ yards of tl
l'"t it is not reel
^•"d of the bay
*m; a strong .st
'''■'"" f''Je- Ther.
"'•'.v lie obtained.
^avidad Hei
siiiniiiit, about 1
"i't'ii seen frcn,
'""' «" he an islui
*t''tcr rises over.
' ^^ direction ; tl
"'■'' '''fetation, mj
f^'H'iii|,I,„n,t, to J.-,,!

;ii

j^3 ae a ; j n'' . 'nr r grT? 3J g ]UMg f

NAVIDAD BAY.

107

From 2 miles beyond the West point of Manzanilla Bay to Cape Graham,
an almost straight sandy bench extends in a W. by N. direction for 13 miles,
the coast being from 15 to 20ft. high; the long lagoon lies immediately
behind, and beyond again the land rises in distinct ranges to between 3,000
and 4,000 ft. During the fine season, boats may generally land on this beach,
and there is safe anchorage, half a mile from the shore, in 1 8 fathoms.

NAVIDAS BAY lies between Cape Graham and llarbour Point, 2i miles
njmrt, N.N.W. and S.S.E., the anchorage being protected from S.W. winds
by the latter point. The North beach of the bay is in lat. lO'' 13' N., loi\g.
104" 44' 27' W.

After rounding Navidad Head from the northward, at the distance of 2
miles, liie white sandy beach of Navidad Bay will be seen, bearing E. by N.,
distant 7 miles. Cape Graham, the East point of the bay, 700 ft. high, has a
high peaked rock close off it, as well as a smaller one, which, however, do not
bIiow as detached from any position a vessel would be in. There is also a
small rock, 6 ft. above high water, which bears froni the cape S.W., distant
half a mile. At 2 miles off the white rock of Navidad there is GO fathoms
water, and steering for the anchorage it gradually shoals to 40 and 30'
fathoms.

As the bay is approached. Harbour Point, a rery remarkable high white
point, will be seen on the northern shore ; immediately round and inside it is
the anchorage, a very fair stopping place during the fine season, but it is not
recommended for a sailing vessel at other times, as there is a dirticulty in
gi'tting out with a S.W. wind. The best berth is in 7 fathoms, sandy bottom,
with Harbour Point bearing S.S.W. a quarter of a mile, and the same distmico
tVom the eastern shore of the bay. Sailing vessels may anchor farther out,
with the point bearing West, in 10 and 11 fathoms, but there will be more
swell.

A single horse stands in the North hook of the bay, and a lagoon within a
few yards of the beach, where the water is fresh, and the natives say good,
but it is not recommended to use it unless a vessel is in distress. At the Sh'.
eiiil of the bay is the N.W. end of a long lagoon which here opens into the
nea ; a strong stream runs out of it, and there is sutticiont dej)th for boats at
half tide. There is a small village here, and some supplies of fresh provisions
mav be obtained. The anchorage off this end of the bay is not recommended.

Navidad Head, 7 miles westward of Navidad Bay, is a wedge-shaped
sir.iuiiit, about 400 ft. high, falling inshore to a low neck, and is reiuarkablo
when seen from any direction. On approaching it, within 3 or 4 miles, it is
sun to be an island, separated from the main by a low rocky ledge, which the
wator rises over. Off the head are three remarkable rocks, extending in a
- W. direction; the centre one being white, with a smooth round top, covered
with vegetation, and about TO ft. high. These rocks give the head sDme slight
rc.-ciul)lance to Farralono Point, with tlie I'laik's Kocks, when seen from the

^^^!
'}\

H
' I

■:S;''|i

. -*. ; '• '■ '■

,; ' *''Vi'a

, ■, ;,'

, ':^ ^

' *'. ^'H

'ii*

■ .1- -'--*>4/ii

'.' '. ''W^^

• K-

' ' • 'i^l^m

■ if

^4m

ll'^^:;

-I

■■}• .

lijiiiil

108

THE WEST COAST OF MEXICO.

N.W. ; but tlic peculiar shape of Wedge Island would prevent the possibility
of a mistake after the first glance.

The White Rock of Navidad has been mistaken for the White Islet of Man-
zanilla by strangers, and accidents have occurred in consequence, but this
mistake could only have arisen in the absence of any chart. The Navidad
Hock is small, the centre of three, and stands off a prominent headland. The
^\'hite Islet cf Manzanllla, 20 miles to the south-eastward, is very much
larger, remarkably white, and stands alone, a mile from shore, but being
rather in a bight, cannot be seen projecting from any position a vessel would
be in. Besides the three high rocks off Navidad Head, there is a sunken one,
which occasionally breaks, and lies S.E. J E. from the White Eock, distant a
short mile.

Tenacatita Bay is 5 miles wide from Navidad Head, its S.E. point, to
lirothcrs Point, its N.W. extreme. The latter has a rather remurkable double
hill rising immediately over it, which from the northward appears like an
island. Off the point is a high, square, perpendicular rock, and some smaller
ones about it above water ; there are also some off-lying dangers to be avoided.
Porpoise Rock, 7 ft. high, lies 1^ mile W. by S. from Brothers Point, and a
breaking rock lies S.E. by S. 3^ cables from the same point.

The bay is spacious, and is more than 2 miles deep, and there is said to be
good anchorage in its N.W. corner, well protected, with the wind from that
quarter. It should, however, be entered with caution, as it has not been closely
examined. A berth of 2 miles should be given to Brothers Point. One or
two rocks were observed in the N.W. part of the bay.

Commander S. Long, H.M.S. Pan/ome, 1875, states that Tenacatita Bay
affords a sheltered anchorage off the village on the East side of the bay, during
tlic wet season, and in West Bay during the dry season. Tamarinda Bay, ou
the East side, also affords a secure anchorage, but there is more swell than off
the village.

Tenacatita Bay is eonsidticd preferable to Manzanilla a« an anchorage, and
is said to be more healthy. It is easy of access, and appears free from hidden
dangers, with the exception of the rock off Brothers Point, on which rock no
breakers were visible at a mile distant, although a heavy swell was rolling in
nt the time. The soundings are regular, and the rocks appear steep-to.

After passing the line joining Brothers Point and Tenacatita Head, do not
approach the West shore within half a mile, nor the East shore within a
quarter of a mile. If bound to ^^'est Bay, pass eastward and northward of
Bird Islet, which is 10 ft. high, and has 3 fiithoms water close-to. A good
berth off Tenacatita village is in 10 fathoms, with the village open northward
of the outer rock ofF Brciikwater Point, and Flat Eock (3 ft. high, and having
3 fathoms close-to) showing a little inside Tenacatita Head. From this berth
the water shoals regularly towards the shore, and a vessel loading may, if
desired, anchor closer in in 7 fathoms.

Wafer

fire-wood

Coquita n

'i'he /)

5 miles W

P'oint, whi

Flat To;

point, the I

tain, 1,100

ward.

PERTJLA

venicnt anch

recognized fl

tlie northerni

pendicular w

isouthern islau

I'he best ni

between JJiva;

i" breadth, the

of Observation

W- 105° 9' 35

^i^as Point

tlie outer one Si

™ which the s,

close to it. 'J'

■I'ld I'ussarera
'■« "Hli the high
"'I't-, or midway
bi'v, where there
'"■•'.V anchor in th
^^t the 8.E. enc
of Chmnela. Veg,
'«'and and the «„
» ""Je wide, and
"'■"' tJ'e South poi
"K'ha.nelaju.t

^We of the bay.
"I'ne they will be

'''l"'"y-andoffth

^''o'li J'a.s,sarera

J'^t'Tit two-Un-rds .

"'^'tvo.s,se]sofg,.eat,

"t'UtliiT,! part of

FERULA BAY.

109

Water may be procured cither near the village or in Tamarinda Bay, and
fire-wood is plentiful. Numerous cattle were seen in the vicinity of the bay.
Cocjuita nut shells are abundant.

The Frailes, two needle-shaped rocks, from 80 to 100 ft. high, lie about
5 miles W. by N. o*" Brothers Point, and 6 miles south-eastward of Farralone
Point, which is low and projecting. They are at half a mile from the shore.

Flat Top Point is 8 miles north-westward of Farralone Point. Over this
point, the South extreme of I'erula Bay, rises a remarkable flat-topped moun-
tain, 1,100 ft. high, which is very conspicuous from the northward and west-
ward.

FERULA BAY, according to Capt. Bichards, H.N., is a spacious and con-
venient anchorage, 60 miles south-eastward of Cape Corrientes. It is easily
recognized from any direction by two islands, which lie in the centre of it ;
the northernmost of which, Passarera, 130 ft. high, is remarkable from its per-
pendicular white cliffs which are seen from a long distance. Colorada, the
southern island, is rather low, and has a slightly reddish appearance.

The best anchor ge is in the nortliern part of the bay. The entrance is
between Kivas Point, the N.W. extreme, and Passarera Island, and is a mile
ill breadth, the depth of water being from 15 tc 13 fathoms. The North point
of CTbservation Cove, at the N.W. end of the bay, is in lat. 19^ 34' 31" N.,
long. 105° 9' 35" W.

Bivas Foint is bold and cliffy, with some detached rocks 1^ cable off it,
tlie outer one 30 ft. high. From this rock a reef, 2 ft. above high water, and
on which the sea always breaks, lies Fast, distiint 1 } cable, with deep water
close to it. There is anchorage anywhere within a line between Rivas Point
and Passarera Island, in from 10 to 14 fathoms water, but the most sheltered
is with the high rock off Rivas Point, bearing S.W. by S., distant about half a
niilo, or midway between it and the sandy beach on the eastern side of the
bay, where there is 4 and 5 fathoms at I3 cable from the beach. Small vessels
iiiiiy anchor in the northern bight of the bay, and be more out of the r,well.

At the S.E. end of the bay, nearly 4 miles from Rivas Point, is the village
of Chamela. Vessels wishing to anchor near it should enter between Colorada
Island and the small islands to the S.E. of it. This channel is two-lhird.s of
a mile wide, and free from danger. Large vessels may anchor in 8 ftithoms,
with the South point of Colorada Island bearing S.W. by W., and the village
of Chamela just open of San Pedro Island, midway between the island and the
slu)re of the bay. Small vessels may anchor in 4 fathoms inside Coeina Island,
where tlicy will be two-thirds of a mile from the village. Inside this it shoals
lapidly, and off the village there is only a fathom of water.

Fioiu Passarera Island a bar extends to the opposite sandy point of the bay,
distant two-thirds of u mile. The least depth of water on it is 3 fathoms, so
that vessels of greater draught cannot pass from the northern anchorage to the
M uiheiii part of the bay, but must go outside the islands. The bottom is

Jrv;

•'"1 .!".

ii;.l'«;.^ft.;.,

'^■'.

■■>:\,

\^'

i,-,

ieai

1 ;'

1' ••
it'.' - ' 1

'■ 1*

u-m

THE WEST COAST OF MI^XICO.

eandy, but good liolding ground. During the fine season, from November till
June, the sea breeze from N.W. is regular during the day, and the land wind
ut uight, and the anchorage is perfectly safe ; but with S.W. or S.E. winds u
lieavy swell sets in every part of the bay.

Supplies of fresh beef, pumpkins, and water-melons, may be bad at the
village, by giving a day's notice ; there is also good water from a btream, close
to it. Dye-wood is exported, but of an inferior quality.

About 60 miles N.W. f N. from Kivas Point is Cape Corrientes, immediately
southward of which a sandy beach commences, the general features inland
being conical peaks. Soundings are obtained 4 miles South of the cape, and
at the distance of 3 miles from the shore, in from 45 to 55 fathoms, and when-
ever a sandy beach line is observed, 19 or 20 fathoms water will generally be
found within a mile of it, where vessels may anchor if necessary ; but the
coast is not considered safe between June and the end of November, during
which time S.E. and S.W. gales are prevalent, bringing in a heavy seo.

Capt. W. H. Parker says : — I must caution you against one of the most
marked currents on the coast : the current running from the East point of
Navidad Bay along the coast towards Cape Corrientes, generally about N.W.,
but sometimes setting North, with considerable velocity into Navidad, Tena-
catita, and Perula Bays.

CAPE COERIENTES, a bold headland, 425 ft. high, with rather a flat
summit, rises inland to between 2,000 and 3,000 ft. From the northward and
westward it is not remarkable, but from the southward it is bold and pro-
jecting. There are no known dangers off it, and soundings were not obtained
with 106 fathoms, at 4 miles \V'e!>t of it. Its extremity is in lat. 20° 25' N.,
long. 105° 43' W.*

The cape is a bold and well-characterised promontory, jutting far into t!ie
sea, with a tolerably straight sky-line, broken here and there by ravines and
small peaks. It is everywhere clad with underwood to the top, and has the
appearance of being a safe, bold shore. Sandy beaches were noticed at
different places, but in general the cliffs appear to be washed by the sea. At
about 6^ miles southward of the cape is Cucharilas lice/, which extends from
the coast, and is stated to have two sunken rocks, at half a mile off its
extremity, and 2 miles from shore. On the chart from the survey by tlio
officers of the U.S.S. Hanger, 1882, this reef is shown as extending only about
lialf a mile off shore.

During the years 1873-5, Commander Dewey, and the officers of the U.S.R.
Narrayatisett, were engaged in surveying the coasts and islands of Mexico

• Richmond Rocks, said to lio 8 miles W.S.W., or 13 miles VV. \ 8. from the capo, from
the report i^i Capt. S. Richmond, 1865, are believed not to exist. The natives and othirs
employed in the coatitiiig trade for many years assert that there is no such rock; it wu3
carefully sought for by the U.S.S. Haginau-, 1869, without siiuccsii.

between
porated tl
Bander

should mi
where fon
country ab
•'/'Vrt, the r
of this line,
'lead the sh
About a r
Cormlcs, bu
could lie her
flists. A sur
3 cables fron
Point Ifflesia,
"'lie outside t
t'lera, but thet
^^ 12 miles
small River J'
fresh water.
«ood cutters,
f lie shore, 210 1
from the Arcos
Rml; vessels c(
c'eso to the bea(
-'^t 4 miles N.
'iike, also known
"'""'■"g low and
anciiorage in 4 tc
i'l'nla Mita, 8
i't'ti'iig lioint, wit
''^'"' half a mile s,
5iWft.hi.,,. At
f^iilioms in X.AV".
•^' H miles S
■^"'^'" i-^'i"ids nam,
clear by keeping „
■T'lilctothe S.W.
'■'"'11 I'oint .Mita,
'''^"' '•> "lilo to the
«''tor, lies between

''^'"mrkso,. thee,
^ ^'''' . H'«8hington,

BAXDERAS RAY.

between Cnpc Corrientes nn,1 ♦». tt • "'

Bandera, Bay._lfcy„„d tw p """« ''"option.'

oumry abound,. M 2^ „n,., ^ ^y I" ly f''''^-^' »""■ "''-I, .,,0

About a mile to the eastward of CalTc
Corrales, but the water is very deon f T'"" " '^' ^'""" '^"'■bour named

could lie here i„ perfect seeuritvZ Z h"" """" '' '« ^''^'^^ ^^^^ a vise'

Pont I,les,a, recognised by a large roek nea Iv ! , ^"^^ ^°'""'t^>« -

>.le outs.de this n.k. it is stated there are V^ '""^ ''"''■ ^^out a

them but these dangers do not appear "„ th . " '"'' ^'*^ ' ''• ^'"ter over
At 12 miles K.N.E. of Idesi. P . "'^^'^ American charts

fresh water. At Q..„..,,,. 3^ 1 "f^,^''"^ '" '^ ^« 20 fathoms, and obt "^
;;;: -Uers. The ^reo, at'5 n^i 1 ^ t:^ ^^ -^ '-"- ^or the .r.^ ^
''0 .here, 210 ft.. 20 ft., and 30 ft. high?e " T"'"' "'^ *''^^^ ^^^s near

*:«'» ^no..„ „3 ,H„ ;i tr" If f""' "• ■'■"'"■".. .ho „,„■„. „f ,
■"■'""S >.w a„d ..„„,, i, ,„,„/ wt It" '"'"" ''^■- ^''- 'ho c™.. J„

; rr r„:^ '"""■"• ■'"-»^' «:;;:: "*■"" -^ -'■'«" <» ««»^

"• ^►///rt, 8 miles westward of tl.r )„f*

J-"^; P"i»t. with many outlying rl^ TroT' " ' ^""' "•^^™-' "^^ I-

- half a „,i,e southward of it Ibout , ' "" "' ^''•^''' »-l- water

5U0 ft. hi-h At 11 -I ^'^""^ « mile inland i, n • '

o"- At 1^ mile eastward of tho „ • , , " Piommcnt hill

fathoms in X.w. ^vinds. '^" ^'"'"' ^'"■'^'^ i« ""chorage in 7 or 8

-^t 3f miles S. by \V A W <• r>
-'";'-'ls named Z. y>.; 1^:;;^ "^ '^ the northernmost of three
'- h- koepin, nearer to the islan '^ f ^"r '^'"■"'" ^^''^ -^^^ - <1
""';^" the S.W. is the seeond island T "f " '"'^ ^'^ ^'^">' "-• about
"' J'-„t Mita. is a white rock 40 ft hi / ". °"'' ' ""^^« S"^'- bv S
''•^'f a mile to the westward aZ!\ ^ "''^ " '"^'^^'^ «»- 15 ft Ih
-.hesbetween the outer a^:;r--;:-^- near, „..,, le tg;
,, • '^--^« o'. the CO.U o.^~- r ^^^^^^': "^-- the latter.

I-

113

THE WEST COAST OF MEXICO.

1*^

■li

1 ^^

li ' '
1,

.t :;:.;-.

Corvftann, 17 miles W. by S. i S. from Piinta Mitn, nnd 21 miles N.W. by
N. 1 N. from Cape Corricntcs, is a bare whitish rock, 25 ft. high, and 3 cables
long East and West. When seen from the southward it appears in three
summits. The water appears to be deep around it, except on its western side,
where a reef extends a short distance off.

From Punta Mita the coast, bordered by hills 300 to 1,000 ft. high,
trends 21^ miles N.E. by N. i N. to Punta liaza, a reddish-coloured point
about 30 ft. high, the western point of Jaltemba Bay, an open bay in which
ships may find shelter in S.E. winds. At 2i miles eastward of Punta Eaza,
and a mile from the shore, is a small islet, 80 ft. high, between which and
the beach there is anchorage for vessels loading dye-wood.

At 10 miles N. by E. f E. from Punta llaza, and northward of Tecusitnn
Point, is the small bay of Chacola, with anchorage for small vessels, and at
1 1 miles farther N. J W. the River Custodlos falls into the sea, southward of
the point of the same name. From Custodios I'oiut to Camaron Point, south-
ward of San Bias, the distance is 10 miles N. by W. J W., the coast between
forming an open bay known as that of San Bias, in which there is said to be
no safe anchorage.

The TEES MAEIAS lie 60 miles to the N.W. J N. of Cape Corrientee, and
70 miles westward of San Bias. They were discovered by Mendoza in 1532,
and often served in after years, as a refuge to pirates and the buccaneers who
secured these coasts. Dampier was here in 1686, and he says, — "I had been
for a long time sick of a dropsy, a distemper whereof, as I said before, many of
our men died ; so here I was laid and covered all but my head in the hot sand.
I endured it near half an hour, and then was taken out and laid to sweat in
a tent. I did sweat exceedingly while I was in the sand, and I do believe it
did me much good, for I grew well soon after." — Vol. i. p. 270. A very
singular sand bath.

The group properly consists of four islands, extending 38 miles N.W. J W.
and S.E. J E. They ai-e of volcanic origin ; their western sides consist of
high cliffs, and perfectly barren, while their eastern sides are generally low and
sandy, with some vegetation.

Cleopha, the southernmost, is about 3 miles in diameter, and 1,320 ft. hio-h.
It has some rocks off its N.E. point; a white rock, 225 ft. high, half a mile off
its western point; and a pinnacle rock, 100 ft. high, 8 cables off its S.E. point.

Magdalena, SJ miles N.W. of Cleopha, is 8 miles long East and West, and
from 1 to 4 miles wide ; off its S. W. side are several detached islets and rocks.
In the middle of the North shore the land slopes from the summit, 1,090 ft.
high, to a level sandj- beach.* It is thickly wooded.

• Commander Dewey states that the highest p'lik of this island rises to a hiight of
2,3S4 ft., Imt the British Admirnlty chart, tHken frum the TT.S. survey, gives it as above.
Numerous discrepancies of this sort occur between iho two charts.

Marin

NU'. nn

(:■*. A)'1QI

m elovati(

nt'.irJy a n

rocks of}' i

•■ii:''in.st th(

P<''>J)lo, wh

^nn Juu

1,'roiip, and

a iiiilo off ft

rcsi'mblincr (

tiiosoiuhoni

•''•'•i'lg this c

'i'Jloy H-oro

'"^'V K(l«a,d I:

'^'''C'e is no

'nay «ow, but

pas,s they sho,

*^iimpli()n. \\\

■Mwxvr\x far ^fc

''«^^p"yed loaves.

'■■'ff'}'. but non^

"lignum vita;..

''"t none of the

^''•^h ajipear t

"C tile ocean abo
"'"'"niJs may i„,

•%• J found Jan,

"oathor previous

^'t'l-e \'ancou\

^■^^mkm of a ma.^

•■""' K'ood «-atcr c<

""J»-obahJc that if

""'"' "'<> tro„bl,>

' '''"• c)i»n.,„.i h, t

'" '* ''"»« *<fo. nnj
■'""■nd in other place-
'"'lorn with 100 faOic
■•"J « current 8omoti,„J
'^^""«'.(ot„koa,lvan

'™^ 'freeze to Itnep to
^'■'"^'''J, vol. ii. J, ,-,,,_

■i' i.-
Ik.

j_ ;, ,

TRRS MARIAS iSLAXns '
^fann Mmlrc or St n^„. ^ ., M8

-ovation to its ,0. N.W. ext i f J™ ^^ '"'r ' ^'^^'^"'^''^ ''-''"
n..W,a n,We. The South point i. , ' 'r , , "' ■*, ''""^— -of exten.I,
rocks oft ,t. On cither si.ln ,.f .u "^ ''•""'' P'ojoctin- wi.h

*n..S .1... ch.„„„, „,,, ,|„„^^,^,,^ •"= '»f of M.,i. ,j„j„ ,^,^^^_^^ ^^^^_

iJ'oro .s nothin. inviting in either o 1 vr' ' '"•^'^ •-

-'-V «"-. but fron, .hat I wi nteVo; ^ T' '" '*"-' -'"3- --on water
P-S thcshouh, ,e we,, ^.J^l^^^^^^:^-^^ -hich it «
^";"I^"«»- What remained in the n.turl t l. " '* ^°"'^ ^'^ «t ^o'" eon-
: '""f /- '^'^-o the influenee Z^^^ ^ '^"/f "^^''"^ """ ^^^'^ »
1 yed leaves. L,- bracks observe,!, tu tie Z 'T ^' " ''^'"'''^ '»^"-"» «
';t;;ly, but none were seen or taken. V af "i"' !" ^'"^ -"-ted the island

-athor previously had been fine. "" ""Practicable, although the

''■'-' Vancouver tried inefrcofmlN. r
--tionofa,naster of a ve sc ' " "'^"' •^"'' ^ "-^ "-.<J"ced. by the

»"" Kood water convenient.; t , 1;:? '^f ^^^^ '^'-. that wells w r ^.'^

"'""' t'<o trouble or risk ?* ''"''^ '^^ °''tained ; but is the result

■Ao/'M I'ucific. —

■■*>;:/■

^< -.u-.^."

Si-'i-'^ :^ V " 111 )'

'ti

114

rnE WEST COAST OF MEXICO.

3?: ' ■'.

■}im

There is nothing io mako it desirable for a vessel to anchor at these islands.
Upon Prince Gcorges's Island there is said to be water of a bad de8cri])tion ;
but the landing is in general very hazardous. There are passages between
each of these islands. The northern channel requires no particular direc-
tions;* that to the southward of Prince George's Island is the widest and
best; but care must be taken of a reef lying one-third of a mile otf its S.W.
point, and of a shoal extending 1^ mile off its S.E. extremity.

From the South channel Piedra Blanca del Mar bears N. 76° E., true, about
45 miles. It is advisable to steer to windward of this course, in order that, as
the winds during the {K>riud at which it is proper to frequent this coust blow
from the northward, the ship may be well to windward.

Piedra Blanca del Mar is a white rock, about 145 ft. high, and 140 yards
in length, with 8 to 12 fathoms all round it, and bears from Mount San Juan
W. § N., about 30 miles. At 1 1 miles E. I S. from this rock is Piedra Blanca
tie 7'ierrn, a small white rock, 55 ft. high, with two smaller ones N.E. and
S.W. of it, lying 8 cables S.K. J S. from the entrance to San Bias harbour.

Having made Piedra Blanca dc! Mar, pass close to the southward of it, and
unless the weather is thick, you will see u similarly shaped rock, named
Piedra de Tierra, for which you should steer, taking care not to go to the
northward of a line of bearing between the two, as there is a shoal which
stretches 3 miles off the mouth of Santiago River. The course will be
S. 79^ E., true.

SAN BLAS. — This port has much declined in importance of lute years,
Mazatlan having taken away much of its trade. The town stands on a hill,
with a stream of each side of it ; that to the westward is named the Enteru del
Arsenal, having a depth of IG or 17 ft. on its bar at high water, and here
small vessels are perfectly slieltered. A reef extends from the West point uf
the estero. The eastern stream, named San Christoval, is almost dry at low
water. Supplies of fresh beef, vegetables, wood, and water may be obtained
here ; the latter, of excellent quality, is found in the Ensenada Matenchen, 2J
miles eastward of San Bias. A railway is being constructed to Mazatlan, and
another between San Bias and Guadalajara, and from thence to join a line
from the city of Mexico.

In making this port, the saddle-peaked mountain of San Juan, 7,550 ft.
high, 18 miles E. l»y S. from the town, is an excellent landmark. The land
to the southward of the port is high, while to the northward it is low.

To bring up in the road of San Bias, round Piedra de Tierra at a cable's
length, and anchor in 5 fathoms, with the low rocky point of the harbour

• The mountains above San Bias may bo seen towering above the vapour which hang<
over evory habitable pnrt of Ihu land near it. The high'-st of these, San Ju.'n, fi,2'iO ft
above the sea, by trigonometrical measurement, is the best guido to the road of San Whs,
as it may be seen at a great distance, and is seldom obscured by the fogs, while tliu iuw
andtt are uluiost always bo. — liuclie]), vol. ii. p. 6S4.

boniing J

to windf

st'a, nnlesi

Wiould th(

heiided, nc

ns a vessel

I" case of )

'1l' 'i'ierra ai

rt'ek, after v

''»e connect

Tlie road

nn*I Decemb

southward an

'' is besides

^q>'c, no bus

It is high

between 6 and

fnpt. Basil ]

Having pa^g

t'le Tres Mnr/at

"'gift, when it

''■«f,'iie or two to

<!'" i'ierra, ,vhicl

^re not to go i„

'"^s off the coast

llie pitch of whic

'i'Jie watering-!

^o^'-walk, on the

keeping.

^''"ity offish „
'^red to the roots
^'"'•'y in June
monsooris of the
Period there prev«
""""der and dange,
" '^'» «^««on, retir,
"'« country, not on
are prevalent.

i" the evenings a

f^' ''*«' those peric

'fie most suitable for

'«»• to aj.prehend tht_

«"-^rot so surround,

1," -'

, . „ SAN DLAS.

bonnnjj N. i R, „n,l (ho two P.- , ■ '>•'

to whuh >r()-ii s « 11' "f'firn.s m one. This rr.n,i ;„

" ;.„",„:: ^■~"'— - ->..-,» .':; :,:r"* '""'"■"

'^l.~l.l.ho..i„dv /'? '""■■■'" '" -'"'>' .!» nor,, r .,„/"'""■■' '"'
hended. no time should be lost y " ^"''^ '"'"""^ ^''o* quarter be a ,

«- vessel at anchor is d^ " I ''7 ""' ''"'^-^--S toTo „^ T"
" ease of neeessit, a JTII;:^/:' "' ''' ''''"' «-ndt er.t'S"

'le iierra and the Fort lHutFil T '''''^"'^' ""^^ »^«d between P ,

-^- »^- Which i. .i„ n::t':tr..^7^« ^ ^^^ *° ^^« -"- « t:

''"connecting the two Piedras "^ *^^'"" ^° ''"^^ ^^ the northwa./o; a

- i^e^ib:: «:^::;t ;;::rr ^^^ ^^-- - months or ..,

ou hward and westward, .utcnuL t a.r'-*^ ^'^"^'^ 'y «^- ^ro. t L

^' " '^'•^'h wat:r : s r;, ^""-^^r ^^ ^'- p-^t. ' '^^ '""^'•^'^'' ^«

between 6 and 7 feet "' "' '"" -^ change, at 9^ 41™ • ,.r.- •

f^"Pt- Basil Han ,„,,^_ ' «i'nngs nse

J'aving passed about 8 or 10 In„
t''e 'iVes Marias Islands, stee- ^Tv '"^ '''^ ""^''^-'^ ^^ "- group call ,
"'gl't, when it would L ^ ^^'- ^°"''se. "ntil Piedr-. ». ^ ^'^

K'ue or two to 7. ''"^^'^''' *" «'eer directlvV t '"'" ""'"«« "'

roF-walk, on the beach 'n "^ "'"'" ''^'' ^"d or commen.

monsoons of the East Tn r '^^''"' commences with great vlnl

period there nrevn^ • , ""' ""'^ """^'""es for si/^ „ '"' "''"^ ^'"^

I" the evenings and • ''" ""^'"^

f:"

5i ■■•

. <

' , I

■

IVH

1 *>' i ^

||i

Miil

j..

iij

■m

mmmm

.'Xi:y,-e:xiitiLAi^A.i

116

THE WESi COAST OF MEXICO.

place is exiiemely imhealthy at times, nnd every precaution, espocliilly agninst
exposure at night, wou)d be at all times of importance.

The following; is by Capt. Mastei's : — " In the rainy season, when the wind
blows stiong from the southward, a heavy swell sets in at San Ulas, and as
there is nothing to protect the anchorage, it must bo flit very severely ; but I
never heard of any damage having been done to the shipping in consequence.

" There is some advantage in a vessel lying outside in the roads during the
rainy season, for there the crews have purer air to breathe ; and probably it
might be more healthy than that of the pert, besides licing jiartially clear of
mosipiitocs and other tormentors of the same caste, which are very numerous.
The crew also are easier kept on board. But if the ship has to discharge her
own cargo, the expenses of doing it will be considered ; and if her long-boit
is too small for that purpose, the launch, which must be hired, will mobt likely
be manned by the crew; so that they arc more liable to become ill, being more
exposed to the rain and sun, than if a vessel was in the port; and, in the next
place, their meals would not be very regular : tliey would also get spirits bj
some means, wliocver was in charge of the boat or launch (providing that Lo
should be even disposed to prevent it), whenever she went on shore.

" There is 13 ft. water on the bar of San Bias, in the shallowest part of the
entrance, and very seldom less even in the neaps. By giving the point which
forms the harbour a berth of 16 or 20 fathoms, you will avoid a large stone,
which is awash at low water, and is about 8 fathoms from the dry part of the
rocks or breakwater. As soon as you are so far in that the inuenno.st or
eastern part of the breakwater is in a line with the other part of it inside,
which runs to the M.N.li., it may be approached to within 10 or 15 fathoiiit;,
and by keeping well off from the low sandy point on the starboard hand as
you warp up the harbour, you will have the deepest water. But as the sea
sometimes in the rainy season (althovigh but seldom) breaks over the break-
water which forms the harbour, it would be best tc moor close under the high
part of the land on which The old ruins of a fort stand, with the ship's head up
the river, and a bower laid otF to the eastward, and an anchor frtjni the star-
board quarter, from the larboard side to the shore, cither by taking an anchor
out or making fast to the rocks. It would be next to impossible that anv
accident could happen to the ship ; the cargo can also be discharged with
dispatch, and immediately under the eye of the maste*- or mate, as the placo
where the cargo is landed would be about 100 fathoms from the ship. Tlie
ship's long-boat would do more inside than two launches if she was outside;
and besides, wlien the sea is heavj in the roads, t!>e discharging of the cargo
could go on. As there are no established pilots here, it would be advisiible
to engage a person to point out where the stone lays. The capUiin of the port
is the best to apply to, and if he does not come ofl" himself, would most likely
recommend a person."

Lieut. Shuiud Oaborn, 181(1, says that care mui-t. be taken in stundiii;; i)i fji'

the Jar

rent a2(

i^ias on

are cony

Pi'rfect Si

"verJund

between i

on the ma

steered by

'i'Jie twc

anchoj-age

idniost aloji

s'wufc'glfng J

«inco the

changed. Jj

Eon/c a])ppura

trade h;is bee;

'iVic largo t,

^'J- an KiigJish

cargo Of uvo o

WWltJis hx tho '

^^^e town is ;
to seaward, its .
"J^wit three-qua
^'■"* Jias been th
''"'ivenieneeof.s
new town ha.s so,
^" the Kstero ,
^'^"vcnient ancho
'^«^t 3 miJes dM>
''™vy work, it ,
I'l'sUion tiiat they
l"-wze blows.

'^■''e w;ucn„j,.j.j,
of San Bias. Tj,e
• "''^■' t^'^'o-'gh the J
'"^''^ '■« Jiablo to he

/t'apt. li,.3chov"e«
^ "• ■'"fivotim,

ir(j

overland letters froml' ^ --™""'c,.ted with hi " '""^' ^"

°" the main a litt I. J'"'''^"' '^^•^«^''- We br .Ik/ '"''^"^''""nel course

J he two Picdra Ulan ^^'ina, and

""(.'horatfe fnr ,. ' , ^^^^ "^"^ excellent marl-<, f .,

changed T(« „ , . " ^''^^'^f-'^'ev, fho tou-,, ^o ' * -^^ »>.

■"" tanjo .„..„ "Z:' ■'T''- ""■»"»"• """'''■ "" '"

.«.» i„ .„4r" "■'"' "«••'■ "* i» -'it; :rzr. ir"*-; -"" »

'^'^^e town is built } '" ''"'*''^'

"" -» .1 - rrcrr'"''" ■'■^'- »'- '»- r:: „^-™°'' '^ ■'■«

^" the Kstero d 1 1 ^"^^"^^'tanta. "''^ '« "'^^s. and the

"'^■^""f. '^Wavo tim,h„ -""'"'' '" «'"-<J''«nco o7 , "''^'""""'^ 't found

V I t

%-^«s^HaiiiHi

g^gggnamanHHi

W !'

118

THE WEST COAST OF MEXICO,

■ ■

8up])lics, by immersing the empty cask with the bung in such a position that
only the fresh water (which of course would be on the surface) could enter.

By rigging triangles with spars in such a position that the boats could go
under them to load, we succeeded in embarking daily 32 tons of water.

Many useful and ornamental woods are to be procured on shore, for the
mere trouble of cutting, especially lignum vita;. Fresh beef we found good in
quality. Game moderately plentiful ; oysters good and abundant ; vegetables
scarce and expensive. The climate may be summed up by the word execrable.

Mr. Jeff'ery, R.N.. thus describes his pa.ssage from Acapulco to San Bias,
which will form a fitting supplement to the preceding : —

On the 8th of December, 1833, we weighed with a light sea-breeze, which
enabled us to work out of the harbour. Towards the afternoon the wind
increased from the westward, and continued to blew fresh for thirty hours,
which is considered unusual on this part of the coast. We were nearly 60 or
70 miles off the land, and for the next ten dajs had nothing but calms and
light variable airs alternately, and the weather excessively hot and sultry. At
last we got in with the land, about 100 miles West of Acapulco, and on the
'ilst were off Point Tcjupan. The only remarkable objects on this part of the
coast are the Paj)s of Tcjupan : they are two sharp hills on very high land.
We now found the good effects of being close in shore, and I think it advisable
for vessels making this passage to keep as near the land as possible, for in the
daytime we had a regular breeze from the westward. It fell light about sunset,
and then about 10 or 11 o'clock the land-breeze would come from the N.F.
ITie advantage of keeping in-shore can seldom be doubted when we consider
that vessels are frequently 40 or 50, and sometimes 60 days making this
passage, through not kcejjing near the land. Between Tejupan and Cajie
Corrientes we found a current setting along the land to the westward froni
12 to 15 miles a day. On the 28th, when within 30 miles of the harbour, we
had very heavy rain and thick weather ; we aiTived on the 29th, and made
the passige in 21 days. After rounding Corrientes, if the weather is clear,
you will see the saddle mountain near San BLis ; and to the N.W. of it another
high mountain, with a remarkable peak at its N.W. extremity. If you look
at it with a glass it will appear split in two, but to the eye it appears as one.
I'll is is so very remarkable that it ought never to be mistaken, as there is
nothing like it on this part of the coast. When the above peaked mountain
bears N.E. the anchorage at San Bias will bear N.E. also.

The watering-place at San Bias is in a bay to the eastward of the roads; you
have to land the casks and roll them about 300 yards through the woods to a
river. At high water it is rather brackish, but at all other times the water is
excellent. Wood is very plentiful.

The fine season lasts from December to May inclusive. During that interval
the sky is always clear, no rain falls, land and sea-breezes prevail ; and, :is
there is no sickness, the town is crowded with inhabitants. From June to

Govern,
iucrease
but in 1

deluge t
thunder j
ill eonseq
dienches
the rock
season, in,
"in becon
'nischievou
such as the
'litis beir
aljandon the
o/'.Uiy.

'^"'-' uhoJe

c'ear, and ma

'i"he year i

remarked that

<i'y season the

t'le day from

P'ace during ti

^^ich commeni

'■""• As tJie

H'"i»i)igatniJ

"ceoinpanicd y^\

'''""■'"f? from all

'i't'cndofSepteJ

a terrible hurricj

''"^ft'stivalofSt.l

These hmrieuu

"""- ^"t they ar]

'^'^I'st them. Thei

-'''t' 'ash Mith bt

""t-'l't to slip her .

"^"'eeordonazosll
''^ "'"w- at such a
'"*' '"t'mations oil
'"'"'^I'-'ads entirely
''■J'tciaber and oJ

^T''^' %; thus!

'"'•■"' i'''««.d,^,.eroL
""''■'^•^t' ami all p,]

„ , SAN BLAS.

NoT.mber a very different order of tl • "«»

r™''- ^'^'^ '^'^v '>-"-- over s'^"'"'''"^^'"^'^' ''- '-at i. .,,,.
but m their stead hard .J '"^ ""^ land-breezes n„ ) ^ ^'

^eJ"«e the country Cth " '""^ "^''"° *^^ coast and '"'^"- ^^^^

t'-nder and h.h n .U n ""^""'^' violent squalls of wind.'"""'-' "'"^

'•" consequence of , ,"""'' *''" ^^""^ *^n ^la. is rid" T'""'"''''"' ^^

d.enehes the whole . "" ""'^ '' '^^ violence o the ""'"'-Citable.

~. indeed. ^J^^T '' '"' "^^^^"^ ^ i.l nr?',""'^'''^

"in becomes less volent'! ^7" ^«P^^'""^' - towards " the en .' "*"^
mischievous effect on ^'^ '"'^""^^' ^'"'''^ the iuten T ' ''''^" ''^^"

W»»."Sf«„, .11 „„„.,?„, 7"™' '*'""in8 and >h„„a„ , ™' """'^

'"•' "'""■»«;««. of i.. approach V, ° """ '"'^ S0> under ,,ui „„ '

'J,

. !

■S Wlio

ii ■■

Jl'

120

THE WEST COAST OF MEXICO.

lost in the road of San 151ns, and several people were drowned, without It
being possible to render them any assistance.

A monsoon has been observed on the N.W. coast of ^^exico, and in the Gulf
of California, arising from the inversion of the trade ivinds. In realit)-, this
wind, almost constantly blowing from the N.E. in tJie Atlantic, in the parts
North of the equator, is here supplanted by one from the S.W., and even by
winds directly from the AVcst. This inversion, which only prevails in the
Vermilion Sea, is not exi)erienecd on the Californian coast, washed by the
Pacific, beyond the latitude of 23^ North.

Between San Bias and Mazatlan, 120 miles to N.W. J N., the shore is
generally low and covered with trees or bushes. At 8 miles W. by N. | N.
from the entrance of San Bias harbour is Santiago River, off which a dangerous
shoal extends nearly 3 miles towards Picdra Blanca del Mar. At 4 miles and
12 miles farther respectively, N.W. by N., are the entrances to the Asadero
and Camivhin Estcros, frequented by vessels for cedar, dye-wood, kc. ; the
anchorage is in 5 or 6 fathoms, half a mile from the beach.

Isabel Island, about -10 miles W.N.AV. from San Bias, and 22 miles
W. ^ N. from the Boca Camichin, is 280 ft. high, and nearly barren. It is
IJ mile long N.W. by N. and S.E. by S., and aboi't half a mile wide ; neither
wood nor water can be obtained on it, and it is only frequented by scalers.
The beach is generally lined with rocks, but there is a small sandy cove, open
to the West, where boats may land, which they may also do, in fine weather,
at several sand beaches on the East and S.E. sides of the island. There are
several detached rocks around it, the most conspicuous being two whitish pin-
nacle rocks, 90 ft. and 75 ft. high, near its N.E. side.

lioca Tecapan, 45 miles N.W. by N. i N. of Boca Camichin, is the mouth of
the Rio IJaynna, inland of which are the hills of t'^e same name. The ni'choragi!
is in 6 or 7 fathoms, about 2 miles from the entrance. Two channels lead
into the estero, the northern one having a depth of 12 ft., and the southern
15 ft. at high water. The bar breaks even in moderate weather; the best
time to enter is in the early morning, before the sea-breeze sj)rings up. Fresh
water may be obtained from an Indian village near the entrance.

At 23 miles N.W. J W. from Boca Tecapan is the liiver Vhamatla or del
Rosario, only navigable by small boats in the dry season, to the towns of the
same name. The anchorage is in fi or 7 fathoms, a mile off the river's mouth.
It was in the small port formed by this river that Hernan de Cortes embarked,
April 15th, 1535, on his voyage to discover California.

Near the mouth of the Chamatla are the Chamatla Hills, 6f)0 to 785 it.
high, and midway between these and Mazatlan, and 9 or 10 miles from tlio
coast, is a remarkable range of hills, 1.200 to 1,705 ft. high, known as
Ln C'abeza de CithaUo. Farther inland the momitains are much higher. At
23 miles N W. J W. from the ]?io de (Jhamatla, and 10 jniles from
Ma/atlan, is the Rio IJarrun, a similar stream. The lead is a good guidi' in

heating u
'•egular.

On tJic (
the hacienc
Bullocks m
''i^•e^s is go(

JSAZATl

"ud eonsequ

pl"ces the es

Jong. 106° 25

Considerable

in the port.

'^ lie harbou
Kt^'ous in the
.stands ihe tow
fo the southwa
forming the A\
tfie top, but is
Crpston is sepnr
""'1 this last fro,
Cieston wiJJ be I
'"'■'••^s N.W. of ,
I'ojiiros, oIO ft. J
''l^*^ <wo patches
*'or it is the onlj
'^'•■'nds ; these i-
'■ithoms wafer.
'''fsc islets for,n !
''y f'"-' S/)aniards,
^''^•'ff-red from tlu
■'""^ till the end o,

'"S« of getting a wa
•''^' "lo i)revttl,,„t jy

'wl'aheavyseao^

'■'" '-inchoragc Sout

;'i'i"'''Tred.

light—On the s.

■"""- vvhich show
''"•'%ht was first,

•^' 6 cables nort
'^n'mauos, two rock
■'^^"(•■n.ling off th
^'^ith I'udjiv.

^/ uiv

MAZATLAX.

J'eating up the coast bctwcon ^n i,. '"'

On the coast sevcml la^e f-„.r«, „
the haciendas Z>./ J/„, o T "'' '^^" "^^r leaving Sa„ Rio. -r^

'" "» l»"- ^''™ 1''"" »'"» 'to lime i„ ,1,0 d J;

-nng the North side of the road T T ' " '"■'"' '^'•^-'' "«^ ft- hi^h

-' '«P- but is perpendicular sea^vard L ,h . ' ™""'"' '"^-' "^-J fe-een at

': ' " ""= »"'3- point on .,,i. ' , '° "™ " ""''^' »« Ao »„ch„l 7

fithoms water. Th^ ..n„i '"*^ <^oast bv flnf^ „f .,i

jne anchorage ii«f.fl ;o «i, x ■' "^'^ ol 2 J to 93

vno Spaniard., which is nrn.U to brir ,"'"''"" "'^•'' ^-™-ly u.sed
'^■i^-«J from the South and S W ' L' '""' '" '^^ --)• season/hr'
-0 t.H the end of Qetobor, and b^^w h tn '^ ""^'"' ^'•"'" ^^^^ --^^^nTf
"^! ^^ ^'^^-'^^ -->• between the isl, ^ ^ 'T ^"'^ ^"'^ '^ ^'"^ adva^
- eprevaleut N.M. winds of the 'C^ "^^"1 ?"' ^^^ ^"^ ' ^"t
^'■'-'' « beavysea on the beach th-it U r '''' "S'** 'nto it, and mJ

f'-ewa,o South of Cr:^;: t :^xr'' '" ^^ ^ ^^^ ^^^^-^t ^

;"*rred. these meonveniences are not felt iJ

;^-. two roc, i:::::is^:r: ,::;:"" -^v^^ --^ -d so...

-f-end,ng off the East poL of t fo ' ;' T ' *"' '•^^'- " ^""«'
Ao.M /'„«y,V, '0""tJ' ihc southern islet, 1,50 ft

'> !*

\ y *'

."itiU

\ \

122

THE WEST COAST OF MEXICO.

'If

high, has several detached rocks around it, and at 2J cables W.N.W. of it is
Tortuya Hock, about 5 ft. high. Ciervo Island, 250 ft. high, lies on the East
side of '.be entrance to the harbour, and is connected with the shore by very
shoul water ; about 2 cables S. by W. i W. from its S.W. point is Blossom
Hock, with only 10 ft. over it, marked by a flag buoy. Black Bock, 7 ft. high,
lies nearly three-quarters of a mile South of the same point.

The port of Mazatlan has been opened to foreign commerce for many years.
Under the Spanish dominion it was unknown, but on the proclamation of the
Mexican independence it was phiced on a difTesent footing ; and Capt. Sir E.
Belcher says, that between his former visit in 1827 and that in 1&39, it had
increased from a village to a town. Silver, copper, and dye-woods are the chief
articles of export.

The official name which was applied to it by the Mexican goverament is
La Villa de los Castillos. 'Ihe population is less during the rainy season, but
rises to 1G,000 or 17,000 at the dry season, or when the vessels arrive. It has
a very picturesque appearance both from land and sea, the houses being all
light coloured, and ia the better parts of the town handsome and commodious,
the style being that of the old Castilian, suitable to the hot climate.

The town stands on the East side of the peninsula, and about a mile within
the entrance of the river, on the bar of which there is only 6 ft. at low water.
The custom-house is at the South end of the town, and from it a pier extends,
southward of which is another for boats. Sunken rocks lie off the shore
between this and the fort, making it necessary for boats to give it a good
berth. At the back of the fort is a hill, 200 ft. high, on which is a Signal
Station. Supplies are said to be dear, and onh' rain water can be procured.
There is a hospital at the town. The mail steamers call here, and a railway is
being constructed to connect it with San Bias.

Ships ought to get their water in the peninsula which forms the South side
of the road ; everywhere else it is brackish. Although Mazatlan is less un-
healthy than San Bias, severe fevers are common during the rainy season.
Commanders should be strict in not allowing their men to run into any excesses,
which are highly dangerous. — M. Ditjlot de Mofras.

It is high water, on full and change, at 9'' 40"" ; springs rise 7 ft.
About 1 3 miles to the eastward of the port, on the road leading to San
Bias and Tepic, and 6 miles from the sea, is the old Presidio of Mazalliiii.
There are no vestiges of the fortification, and the fine barracks built by the
Spaniards only servo now to slielter a few cavalry soldiers. The Bio de Ma-
zatlan, which runs near the Presidio, and falls into the harbour, is not navi-
gable.

Capt. Sherard Oshorn, R.N., speaks rather more favourably of the climate.
lie says (1846) : — The coastrrs run up the river to the new town of Ma/atlnn,
which has risen to considerable importance within a very recent period, not-
withstanding the disadvantiiges it labours under from tlie paucity of siipiilics,

both nni

Wazntlai

^nn Sebi

general h

has niatei

I'uilt on t]

clean h'ness

ri.-ibJy nioo

to Creston

strength.

Gi|>t- Bo(

'The anchi

event ofagj

"•^ it is neces

""d make a

••'•Jing out th(

accidents hav,

Pver blows fro

I'econibor.

'J'here is no ,

'^■■'"'iii; the Jan

•^^''ger at the di

S""oi-a, some ]o|

"'P" upon the

^^••^mlm, and n

^'«^'Ulan. Ac,

°^ 20 miles a da:

other steep rockj

"'■■•y he further k.

'^■■"•'J'>nt, havin.

'«"'»^epn it and a

"P«n'i anchor i,„,
■Tifi tlie bluff ^Yr_

1"''r'"ofacabJeL
•""'^ofitineverv
''««"ce from the 1

"«' to shoot much,
'' ""' water shoaLs
""' '■''n^'ent of ,
^■^^' "fit. as that
^^"'"^"ftheanoho
'^"'"^^^■P water all

1101

> MAZATLAN.

both animal nnd vegetable, and from the water being both bad and scarce.
Mazatlan is now the outlet for the products of the valuable mining district of
S;in Sebastian, and imports directly large cargoes of English goods. The
general healthiness of the climate, ns compai-ed with its neighbour San IJlas,
has materially tended to an increase of its population. The town, from being
built on the crest of some heights, clear of mangrove and swarap, had an air of
cleanliness and pure ventilation rare in this part of America. Vessels inva-
riably moor in the roadstead, open hawse to W.S.W., and too close a berth
to Creston I.sland is not advisable, as the squalls sweep over it with great
strength.

C;ij)t. Beechey's directions are as follow : —

The anchorage at Mazatlan, at the mouth of the Gulf of California, in the
event of a gale from the south-westward, is more unsafe than that at San IMns,
ns it is necessary to anchor so close to the shore, that there is not room to cast
mid make a tuck. Merchant vessels moor here with the determination of
riding out the weather, and for this purpose go well into the buy. Very few
accidents have, however, occurred, either here or at San Bias, as it scarcely
ever blows from the quarter to which these roads are open, between May and
December.

There is no danger whatever on the coast between Piedra del Mar and Ma-
zatlan ; the land is a sure guide. The Island of Isabel is steep, and has no
danger at the distance of a quarter of a mile. Beating up along the coast of
Sonora, some low hills, of which two or three are shaped like cones, will be
seen upon the sea-shore. The first of these is about 9 leagues South of
Mazatlan, and within view of the island of Creston, which forms the Port of
Mazatlan. A current sets to the southward along this coast, at the rate of 18
or 20 miles a day.

liaviug npj)roaehed the coast about the lat. of 23° 11' N., Creston and some
other steep reeky islands will be seen. Creston is the highest of these, and
may be further known by two small islands, Venado and Pajaros, to the north-
ward of it, having a white chalky appearance. Steer for Creston, and pass
between it and a small rock to the southward, and when inside the bluff, luff
up and anchor immediately, in about 7 J fathoms, the .small rock about S. 17° K,,
niul the bluff W. by S. Both this bluff and the rock may bo pa.'*.sed within a
quarter of a cable's length. The rock has from 12 to 15 fathoms within 30
yards of it in every direction. It is, however, advisable to keep nt a little
difitance from the bluff, to escape the eddy winds. After passing it, be careful
not to shoot much to the northward of the before-mentioned Ix^aring (W. by S.),
as the water shoals suddenly, or to reach so far to the eastward as to open the
West tangent of the peninsula, with the eastern point of a low rocky island
S.W. of it, as that will be near a dangerous rock {Bloss»m Rock), nearly in the
centre of the anchorage, with only 1 1 ft. water upon it at low spring tides, and
with deep water all round it. There may be a buoy upon it ; but should this

M:J:;i

■It,

" .;': 1

f i/,,

■ I I

. , i;! :

'' ^■^l^'■ ' ■'*

'■,1

;;l

124

TIIl'l WEST COAST OF MEXICO.

be waslied nwny, its situation may be known by the eastern extreme of the
before-mentioned low rocky island (between which and Battery Peak there is
a chunnel for small vessels) being iu one with a wedge-shaped protuberance
on the western hillock of the northern island (about 3 miles North of Creston),
and the N.W. extremity of the high rocky island to the eastward of the anchor-
age being a little open with a rock off the mouth of the river in the N.E. The
South tangent of this island will also be open a little (4°), with a dark table
hill on the second range of mountains in the East. These directions will, I
think, be quite intelligible on the spot.

The winds at MazatU»D/|gcnerally blow fresh from the N.W. in the evening;
the sea breeze springs up about 10 in the forenoon, and lasts until 2 o'clock in
the morning.

To thea.' may be added the following extract from the remarks by the French
Admiral Du Petit Thenars : —

In approaching Mazatlan there is no difficulty. The latitude of the port
must be gained, or rather a few minutes to the North of it, on account of the
currents which generally run strong out of the Gulf of California, and which
would thus send a ship to leeward of the port. In clear weather the land may
be seen at 40 or 50 miles off, and, if you are on the parallel of Mazatlan, the
first which will be seen will appear iu the N.E., the N.E. J E., or E.N.E.,
according to the distance. Nearing the land it will be seen successively
extending towards the South as far as East, and even as E.S.E. From the
offing nothing can be made out. The land on the shores is g^encrally very
low, and, in the first instance, only the interior high land will be seen ; and it
is only when you are within 18 or 20 miles of the coast, for example, that its
different points can be distinguished. The islands of Creston, Venado, and
I'ajaros will be made out ; the first seen is Creston. As soon as all uncer-
tainties of the position of Mazatlan cease, steer either for the anchorage of
Venado or that of Creston.

In proceeding for Venado, with the ordinary winds of the season, steer for
the 8.W. point of Venado Island, carefully looking »ut for and avoiding a
small rock awash, called the Laxa, which lies about 200 yards from this point,
and does not always break : after having passed this rock, which may be done
within a hundred yards, bear more to the northward to enter the bay, and bring
the S.W. point of Venado to bear West, or even W.S.W., according as you
intend to anchor more or less within the bay.*

The subsequent description and directiens are by Capt. Masters, whom wu
have before quoted. It must be premised, however, that his names differ in some
few points from those of the Admiralty chart. We have therefore altered them
to agree with that, leaving the originals within parentheses.

• Du Petit TLouare, Voyage du Venus, vol. ii, pp. 175-6.

Maza

to the (

c-'overed

'uountair

of the ba

'I'he j)o

'ts wester

has nearly

where it ti

has from 8

Ciervo has

l«*'ng parti

heibie the ]

is situated \

with the isli

the same in

is 5 fathoms

la the exc

are very corr

sliould not ati

< '''ervo, but ai

and mud. \\

of it, a great J

to the S.E., ex

between it unj

sand. It is sai

nmch within a

In the summ

a third the distf

dt;pth of water i

drawing 12 ft. ^

'•'sk; but, asth(

to take a vessel i

^'orth of the i(

island of Azada(

"arrow boat chan

eastward across (

I'iiot informed me

«as low, not havii

^>liere I sounded t

'"• 5 fathoms, and ,

"•"tor, there is fron

\\'hcn the wind

125

t» the southwarri*f?u^ ^'"''^' '"''*''''• '^ ^« '""••"ed by a Pl„cf . •

lius nearly a rp„„i„ °° *^^ '-'astern side. Prom fi. ^'^'^ton on

^-•n. partially cl "^r""' '^"^ '^ ^^°"* ^^'^the hlj Jf ^ "' °'
•^efore the land at the h Ik ^^^^^^ ^'^^ «'-cl. ean be ZfllT'T'
i« situated well outside d '° ""^^« ^^ appearance Th ""''"'

tne same m hrpnfUi, i » ^'^-ivo, it is about s ft i.- i *

111 the excellent plan of f», i. ,

'-.o. but anchor outside i„ fro.n 9 ^o 2 JT ""''' P'*''' ^^ ^^'■'^ton to

nmoh ».Ui„ . few ,..„ ,:^ — "S. and ,h.. „, p„ ^^ ^'Je^vt'
In the summer season la. , ^

t :,::;r ': "™ ^"-'"^ » '• " ^'°'' '° "™°' ■» <>"«•«

i>ormot the island of Creston n 1 ,.
7 '7 »« "•"-S more th J 6 ft l; r' ""»' """ •" '' wh™ .Ij ,.1°

«l hr- °f °'°" "" '■■ *= '«>" .11. :;t "■"»"' ""p™"" ^

^•>V- a short chop of a sea heave, in

. .1

, )

. i,'

1 ir,

THE WEST COAST OF MEXICO.

between the island of Gomez nnd Point Pain (Cnlandare), nltlioiigli the distnnoe
they arc apart is short ; but by auchurio^, as already mentioned, oppuHite
Creston, nrost of it is avoided.

In the rainy season it is very unsafe to lay inside, as gales come on from the
southward, which bring in a heavy sea. Vessels of all sizes anchor in this
season in the outer roads, between the islands and the outer rocks, from which
they con be got under way, and stand clear of the coast.

To the northward of the present port of Ma/.utlan, about 5 miles, is the
N.W. Port of Moztttlan. It is a very fine bay, and well sheltered from the
N.W. winds by Venado and Pajaros Islands. It was in the southern part of
this baj- that vessels formerly discharged their cargoes, but the present port
being more secure, it was established in its stead.

Watering is attended with great risk at all times at Mozatlan, especially at
full and change, the boats having to cross the heavy surf of the bar formed
between a long spit which runs down tiie centre of the river, and a bank join-
ing it from the South shore. Several boats and lives are annually lost here.
In pulling in, care should be taken to cross the surf pretty ciose to the middle
ground, and, when tlirough the first rollers, to pull over to the South shore,
and keep it on board up to the watering place. In coming out no casks ought
to be allowed in the head sheets, everything depending upon the buoyancy of
the boat.

The water is procured from a number of wells dug by seamen, on a low
alluvial island, formed on a quicksand in the bed of the river ; none of tiiem
are consequently more than 10 ft. deep. The water is by no means sweet,
being merely sea-water, which undergoes a partial purification in filtering
through the soil.

Capt. W. II. Parker, 1871, states that there is good anchorage in 8 or 9
fathoms, with the South bluff of Creston Isl.md bearing W. by S. ^ S., Black
Kock S.S.E., and the town N. by W. i W. In approaching this anchorage,
be sure to keep IMoute Silla well open westward of Ciervo Island, so as to clear
Blossom Rock.

A pilot is always in attendance off Creston Island; pilotage 1 1 dollar per
foot, and .5 dollars for the iis-sistanee of a boat. There is 12 ft. on the bar, but
18 ft. inside. Discharging (in large lighters) co.sts about IJ dollar per ton, and
is always at the merchant's expense. Tonnage dues 1 dollar per ton when
loaded; in ballast, free. Labour 2 dollars per day. Sand ballast l^ dollar
per ton ; stone ditto 2^ dollars. Water 3 cents per gallon. Beef 12 cents per
lb. Weights and measures are the same us those of Spain. — J/r. Consul C.
Woulrich.

THE I

\^'"EN Cortt

liini great tit,

troops reduce

l"-<)jee(N of ex

in the AVost.

J-'oro the coas,
'"Vtnm (ni,.y„

'^^'""■■•>. and was ,

''■■'^•'^ ^'-ea the H

TiicGulfofc

•''■'•^'^t'onofCort
J'"'co in July^ ,5

"«■' concerned.

' '»e name of f '.
"'"'^ b- the nativi
" '■'* <Jenvcd frg„,

""•^ ""-^ are not to/
'"•"•■■'lont through J
"""■' ^'"-T perspire
;"-^"'f^-''artoCort,
'"'''" considered
I"ne trees yielding"
^''« Ponimuh is

;:";'-" to x„e,„ „,

'''^"'•'"■■■' /V«, or
"'"■••iaandAJta, j,
''■^"K"«^od, sinee th,
"■"■'""•y from it^ ,,i

( li.'7 )

*. 1%

.'M

■Iw-

"'•t1

'l«'^"

^ ^

if':

1' '

t (.'.

toflu. VAv ''^ ->' "1 November I5'?i ♦ ., "'"*? '""'dered the

''"•action of Cortes ir u , '"""^ ^'^P'ored hv Pn.n • ,

- coneernod. '^^^ -^i-lu,on of diseover, i„ ,,,,,;;;;

ila<nameofralifonuai,sof„„.., •

l'it\,iient tliroiio-lio,,* p.i;/. . "i-."i in.it it is dcrivn,! e

;- ""■«»'« .0 Con., „„„ h\ j;; ■ 7">'»^<« t„a. t„c. cMo, 1 ::

■Mil

'■1^

138

T-OWER CALIFORNIA.

I ■
I

1 V

During the serpntpruth and ei^litt-piith conturirH, largo qunntitlrs of prails
wore prociircd by the Spftiiish adventurers, and the pearl fisheries in the (Julf
of California increased in fame. At the period of its greatest prosperity, about
COO to 800 divers were employed, the fishery being carried on in small vessels
of 15 to 30 tons burden. In IH.'tl four tolerably large vessels, from Mexico,
with 180 divers, together obtaine<l pearls to the value of il'i.GtiO.*

The PENINSULA has romuincd, until quite recently, almost unknown to
the civilized world, and its Spanish possessor* linvo done notliing to explore its
capabilities, in all the centuries it has been in their possession. The maps,
therefore, have been strangely defective. But since Upper California has been
developed into one of the most prosperous countries in the world, a new interest
in it has been created. This led to the purchase of the central portion of the
peninsula by a New York Trading Company of the Mexican Kepublican
chief, Juarez, in 18G6. An exploring expedition, consisting of Mr. J. Uoss
Brown, Mr. W. M. Gabb, and Dr. Ferdinand Lochr, was organised in 1867,
and we now know from their report much more of the peninsula. f

'Jhey state that the inhabitants are not more than 0,000 in number, chiefly
half-custes, in whom Indian blood predominates, but they are now estimated
nt froii 25,000 to 30,000, including about 4,000 Indians, and this is the entire
population of an area about 080 miles (nautic) long by 23 to 120 miles in
breadth. The land of the peninsula gradually slopes, or forms a succession of
plateaux, from the shores of the Pacific to within a few miles of the eastern
coast, where it terminates in abrupt precipices, from 3,000 to 4,000 feet in
height, facing the Gulf of California. Thi.s .singular conformation suggests the
idea that the peninsula forms only one-half of a mountain range, divided longi-
tudinally, of which the corresponding or eastern half has disappeared along tiie
depression of the gulf. The narrow tract between the foot of the high escarp-
ment and the gulf shores is broken into ridges and valleys, forming a sort of
underclifT, and clothed with a luxuriant scmi-tropicul vegetation.

The rocks of this long mountain range are of modern geological date, or the
tertiary period, but the southern and northern portions are difl'erently consti-
tuted. Here the slope and escarpment are replaced by a chain of granitic
mountains. In the South, the peak of St. Lazaro rises to a height of 6,000 ft.,
1 eing the highest point. Most of the central part is hare of trees. One half

• The most TBlunblo pearls in the po.ssossion of the cotirt of Spnin were found in the ijulf
in 1615 and 1665, in the oxpoditions of Juan Yturbi and Bornal de Pinadoro. During tho
Btiiy of tho Visitador Giilvez in California, in 1768 and 1769, a private soldier in the ^jrcsWi'd
of Lorcto, Juan Ucio, was mudu rich in a ahort time by pi^arl fishing on tho coast of Cenilvo.
Since that period the numbers of pearls of California brought annually to market were
almost reduced to nothing. Tho Indiiins and negroes who followed tho severe occupation
of divers have been frequently drowned, and often devoured by sharks. Tho divers have
always been poorly paid by tho whites. — Alce/lo, 1768 — 0!).

t Official Report on tho Miiural Uesourcrs of the Unitid States, by Mr. Ross Drown,
1808, page 6H0. Tna v.arl- coTili.ius ir.ucli valuable geographical iiiforiiiatiou.

tlie

p.)

'" the

luv bvr

"cnfterc

Thcri

'"•■'i>il)i

"f* «outh

''"•"o an(i

^a'ctatioi

'"capabJo

h'x fruits

"■'no has h

Would have

"Pwies of a,

'''"''y; hut

■^' 'X'^o, the

''"'■•'"A' the w

'"'• -'«^ violc,

^" the s»|«

""' 'nterPsting

fe'^'t^'or with the

'^'he GULP r

■" ^^azatJan anc

f.'itor,s under the

"""ocountoftj,

"'' Arabia. The

''^''"'ctor and p„
^cat general.
^'"^ ^^rigth of
, "':^ '' i^ entra
.""''bother varie.

'"■''"•'••'•dthrapidi,.

I lead.* ^

'"•"'"» dry and
.-•^''■^■^"'rn border of

l*^^<"''>«p..rposo,„

f'cssod

^^"'•M P„r>y?r

•ny

TJfR Cil'T P /^T. ^

"'" '"P"'"'-" is conn . ^'^^^^FORN,.^.

-;|;-od vi„,.,,, „„, ^ -;■»«; b,u ,„ ,he re«t ' ;"^'^''""^-"- There

""■'Whlc for the ,i,,. ; r" ''arbours, but, «,,,„ .,,, ,.'"•

"« «-th -treu.;": "'^^ '""•"^- '' ^« -H t! ;:;T'"'^ '^"^"-- ^'-V are

"- "-' other, h V b ::: "'" ^ '^'^ -'"--h ; ;" ""•"-'^. "".r...

;"™f ^.'« °^p-dueiu;„ :: r f"- '"^^ '-^-^ iX o/T' """ '•""-'

'^'3« fruits «uitab/e to a u "''" "^ ^»'"- In so„ / ' """^"^^ I^'-'ma'

''■'•- '•- '-on „,„,"" , '"'" ^■'''"•^^' ''«v° been" 1 f ''"^ ^''^•"-ecl va -

■^P-- of «eaci„. s'L br'7 ''^' '^'^ *'-• 'eaves of T """"^'•""■^ ''-"
;^"''> .• but for the ,a„,, ^ ^ T "' °" *'>« '''''"ate of t, ""'^''"''^ "•-«'. «

JV GULF OK OAlC; l"'"" "»'™ ""-.o,^ ' ""'""■'' -•

"« .»»u« of .,,e e„,„„ „ *' "'" " V„„,i„„„ s^, > '•- l-m «,„„„,,, „„, .,

P'U general. "" " ''"' I'eon call,,, „,,, „ ""^""^ Virgin, tl,c,>

-.,,- ' " ''"' '"'° « «t its

At a few miles inland f '

' ^^"'•M P„r(/ir. "'"''^' November, 18;,,, j,. .^^"^ "^"'•^'''n cou„(ry_^,.„,

'. ' 'I-

' t

i i

•t

' ■♦'.
i ■».

■ 'l,

■ .■IBM

Uh'

»■■!

"■;:/■) :''^J#,r' ■■'■

■\ ■

ISO

THE GULF OF CALIFORNIA.

It has been often remarked, that a singular phenomenon oceurs here, which
science does not explain, and of which we possess but few examples. It is
that of rain falling when the atmosphere is quite clear, and the sky per-
fectly sorene. Tlie savant Humboldt and Capt. Beechey have related the
fact ; the first having testified as to its occurring inland, the second in the
open sea.

Independently of a great number of fish, of a variety of species, there arc
two species of immense shark found in the gulf {cl tihuron and la (intorerci),
which often seize the pearl fishers. Whales were also met with in consider-
able numbers. On the islands are numerous seals and sea-calves. The pearl
fishery is, or rather was, also followed, as stated in the introductory remarks.

The two shores of the Vermilion Sea run parallel with each other toward
the N.W. ; they are generally very low and full of salt marshes, tenanted by
alligators, reptiles, and insects. The general aspect of the country is horrible;
the imagination cannot conceive anything more naked, or desolate. There is
nn entire want of water and vegetation ; there are only mangroves, and some
thorny plants, such as the cactus, magueys (aloes), or acacias, to be seen. Orange
trees or palms are rarely met with, and one must proceed some leagues into the
country to find vegetable mould. The shore is formed by sand and la^ids quite
unfit for cultivation.

At the entrance of the gulf, on the eastern side, the summits of the Sierra
Mutlre may be seen in the distance ; these separate the states of Jalisco, Sinaloa,
and Sonora, and those of Nuevo Mexico, Chihuahua, and Durango. The coast
of Lower California presents, without interruption, a series of rugged peaks of
volcanic origin, and without any vegetation. This mountain chain, which
comes duwn from the North, and extends throughout the whole peninsula, gra-
dually decreases in elevation as it approaches Cape San Lucas.

The eastern side of the gulf is comprised in the Mexican States of Sinaloa
and Sonora. Their principal riches consist in their gold and silver mines, and
they have some considerable cities. The chief arc in Sinaloa, Culiacan being
the rcsiuonce of the governor, &c. Ilosario, above Mazatlan, has, or had, the
quartero of the troops. Up to 1839 Arispe was the capital of Sonora, in which
year it was carried 120 miles to the South, to the ancient mission of S. Joso do
los Ures, on account of the incursions of the Apache Indians. The poit of
Guaymas concentrates all the maritime affairs of Sonora, and Ilermosillo, the
present capital, with about 2'), 000 iuhabitimts, is the centre of its commerco
and riches.

Mr. JeflTery, U.N., who was here in .January, 1834, makes the following ob-
servations in his journal : — " In the f Julf of California two winds are prevalent
during the year, 'i'lie N.W. from October \mtil May, and the S.E. from May
until October. During the former wind fresh breezes and fine weather will
prevail, and a vessel making a passage up the gulf should keep the western
shoro on board, and she will find a little current in her favour, while on the

:,.:|.«i

■■■MHIHI

THE GULF OF CALIFOKXIA.

131

eastern shore it will be against her. When the latter wind prevails j-ou (j;tt
nothing but heavy rains, oppressive heat, and sultry weather, and the reverse
must be observed with respect to the currents.

N.15. — The above is a copy from an old Spanish manuscrijjt, and we proved
it correct when we made the passage in 1831."

During the rainy season, or from May to November, S.E. gales may be ex-
pected at any time below Guaymas, and occasionally a local hurricane or
cyclone, known as El Cordonuzo, blows with great violence. This latter is
generally toward the end of the rainy season. Toward the head of the gulf,
(luring December, January, and February, moderate gules from the N.W. ar^
frequently experienced. — Comm. G. Dewey, U.S.N.

The Tides are felt throughout the gulf ; their height yariea with the direc-
tion and force of the wind, and the configuration of the coasts : thus it is 7
feet at Jl.azatlan, the road of which is open, and at Guaymas, the port of which
is full of islets, and sheltered from the wind, it does not exceed 5J ft. In the
upper part of the gulf the tides are regular, increasing in strength until the
mouth of the Colorado River is reached.

The Currents depend in a great measure upon the prevailing winds ; be-
tween Guaymas and San Bias they are strong and irregular in the rainy season.

The COAST between Mazatlan and Guaymas is but little known or fre-
(juented ; it is low and dangerous, with numerous lagoons behind it, and sho\ild
be approached with the greatest caution. During the rainy season the currents
arc strong and variable, particularly off the mouths of the small rivers and
csteros. The interior country is an important mining district, which has been
worked from the earliest times, and still alTords, with due prudence and skill,
nil almost inexhaustible supply of silver, copper, and gold. The latter is
tliought to be too capricious to be profitable, and many of the copper and silver
mines have brought ruin (m their proprietors through extravagance and inis-
maii;ii;eiiient. Another article of export is dye-wnod, Vt r.ich is shipped from
tiiL' river entrances.

About 5J miles to the northward of Cre.-<toi Island is Pajaros Island, pre-
viously describeil, and at 2J miles farther to the N.W. is Camaron Point, a
rocky blulf 50 ft. high, with a red hill, -103 ft. high, 2 n\iles to the eastward.
From hence the coast trends N.W. J W., 2().J miles, to I'unta Piastla, a rocky
lR';ull:ind lof) ft. high, with a reef extending southward and westward of it.
Midway between the points is Giurza Point, a rocky bluff, surmounted by o.
liill 77 ft. high, and at 9 miles N.K. of Grueza Point is a double peak, 2,121 ft.
liij;li, with a solitary table-peak, 1,220 ft. high, at 5 miles westward of it. About
3J miles south-eastward of I'iastla Point a breaking shoal extends nearly half
a mile off shore.

Piastla River, 3 miles northward of Piastla Point, is a mere creek in the
dry season; ves.sels coming here for dye-wood anchor in 5 or fathoms, about a
Miilr from the beach, and abreast of a pier and some huts, a short distance enst-

i \"

v||-

'.I-

wsaai

132

TIIK GULF OF CALII'OKNIA.

wnrd of tlie northornmost headland ol Piastla Point, at a (juarter of a mile nortli-
ward (if which is a wliite islet, So ft. high. Water and eattlc may he ohtaiued
here. 'J'le village of Piastta is about 20 miles up the river. At miles farther
N.W. is the liirrr KUila, nearly dry in the hot season, hut a turbid torrent in
t)ie wet one. About ISO miles up the river is the village of Klotu, standing in
a thinly pojudati'd and partially cultivated country, of no interest to commerce.
The village is near the foot of the Sierra Mudre range of mountains, which runs
generally parallel with the coast.

At .'51 miles N.W. by W. | VV. from the River F.lota is the Rio San Lorenzo,
or lioca Taviila, only navigable in the dry season for coasters drawing .') feet.
Vessels come here for dye-wood, ^rom 15 to 20 miles inland, between the»e
rivers, is the Sierra de San Srbastiaw,- 1.000 to 1,500 ft high. Vessels wiming
to the IJoca 'I'avala for dye-wood anchor iii C> or 7 fathotnn. 2 miles from the beach,
with f'huehanione Peak, 4,0-15 ft. high, and 2K.J miles distant, bearing K.N.K

About 15 miles above the Boca Tavala is Qitila village, and at about 45
miles from its mouth, and the same distance from the iMouth of the Klota (on
a branch of which it is situated ', is the pueblo of Cosnla, a well known mining
place of about 5,000 iiduibitauls, with many gold and silver amalgamatKiii
works. Large numbers of cattle are reared, and the climate, though very hot,
is considered to be healthy.

River Culiacan. — Petween the Boca Tavala and the entrance of Altata
Fstcro, a distiince of 130 miles to N.W. by W. .J W., the low land e.\tcnds numy
nules inland, Heavy breakers extend nearly ;i miles seaward of the entrance
to the cstcro, the deptli on the bar varying between 2^ and 4,i fathoms. 'I'lie
anchorage is in 6 fathoms, 3^^ miles ort" the entrance, ■.villi the aaddh' of J'lldo
rado, 2,021 ft. high, in range with the distant Double Teak, fi,;!'.*? ft. high,
l)earing N 43' E., which, in 1873, was also the range for entering the estero
with 2i fathoms on the bar at low water. Small vessels find excellent sheltered
anchorage otf the village of Altala, 3^ miles .within the mouth of the estero.

Vessels of 50 to 100 ions can enter wheri there is sufficient wind to stem the
tide, which fKtcasioiially runs vt 4 to 5 knots, tlie ebb carrying discoloured
water several miles to sen.

In 1882 this port was surveyed by the ofticcrs of tl" l^S.S. Runner, wtin
made the ob-servation sjx/t tifar the railway station to be in lat. 24' 37' 45" N., long
107 5() 7' W. At 11 cablt .>( N.K. by K. from the anchorage is the outer buoy,
from which the buoy juNt citt-sitk' tflw breakers o*'the bar bears W. J N., 1 | mile,
with two other buoys between. 'fh<' l!>«>at channel, with 2 to 3 fathoms water,
lies in the direction of .X. by K. ,i K. from the outer buoy. It has been pro-
posed to run out jetties lo improve the bar, and also to show a light on the
North side of the entranoe, nearly a mile eastward of the tripod. 40 ft. high.

The river is used to H</ii< down thi' large quantities of Limn or .Niearagim
wind cut from all parts of (i- mountaiii" in this vicinity Culiinini, llir
capital of the province of ."^muloa i ■;<; miles f/'/tii it.>s mouth, it has been .i

li.'UliI;
Hlth 1

is the

aniouu

All

of tJie

silver, ]

road fi(

hut wati

above A

h is h

T!u' fo

'>'iri]ue C

'*' Aitata

s<'ason wi

strong wn^

ilieMeAica

''ops at nig

'"''m, near!

"iii sight ti

""-' SpaiusI;

^4- ay- or ;;

will bear N

~ ""'«. at.

"""'''j botto;

"On stceri

'akc tare not

•^^■^•eral miles

•^'""•''- Inca.v

^'•""' <'lit to sc

■'''''H'/illi,,.
'"■ 'lone witli
••"'""•f. who f,.t,
'^'•- Thirty ,„
'""■P^"rbru.oi,
■I 'J "'I I\'pa, t

'I'l about 20 mil
■ -Vorth Arp,,-,

^'""'■"fe' in iH ,,

" "(T. and reach

~l"'''if,' ti(Jes, is r,

^"'le aneliorag,.

, , AL'I'ATA.

''••"•'''^"'n^ f^>a„i.sh town, an.l snii '«o

'•"''•I from Alf.f . , I' '''"■'' ''•'>•" luTc- Tl „„ • ^3 '-'-^vood. vvitl,

4v « !f„ r:""'::'.°^ °"*"^"^ --.". » l" ■:;;: r ^:-™"^

^'' :>•' or . ,. , J; T' '"' "'■'"■■"'"•I • ■■ 1 ,! °" "'" "■"* '"•'"

...^ w,,::: '"' ' ■ --^ -^°' - -o™ »"; ;,:: °7^- "■««".

"(),. ct ■ I'-tthouisi water

^'•""l"'g in i« about > (. . , . P''""" ^'"'""r i„ i;,,„. n , ''

-"^'•. and roach A 1" T ^"'"'" ^''''^ "''-•. m. ■. '"' '^^"^^ ''"- '-■

&■

;::miii-.,

■■^/'fl^Q

134

THE GULF OF CALIFORNIA.

,i!

■U

i ?

20 ft. cannot readily go up to Altata. Ships frequently have to wait several
days before being able to put to sea, as the land breeze is seldom strong enough
to allow standing out against the flood tide, even with a moderate swell on
the bar.

There arc no regular pilots, but in answer to the pilot signal the masters of
coasters belonging to the port will come off. They are familiar with the
channels, but not with the handling of large vessels. The pilotage is l^ dollar
per foot and 3 dollars for the boat. For the harboiu'-master 4 dollars, and for
the bill of herdtli 4 dollars are charged, There are two custom-house officials,
one of whom is sent on board while the vessel is taking in cargo. No cargo
from a foreign port is allowed to enter. — Annalen der Ilydragraphie, iSBl.
(See Nautical M'licjazine, September, 1881).

From the entrance of Altata I'Istero the coast trends 39 miles N.W. to the
Boca Playa Colorada, and is very low and dangerous, as shoals extend a long
distance off, particularly off Tide Estero, 10 miles H.W. of Altata, and as far
to the N.W. as Altamuna Point, 9 miles beyond the Boca Tule, where 4^
fathoms is found at 3 miles from the land. Capt. S. Kiehmond, 18.54, states
that there is said to be a narrow channel close inshore, used by coajstiug and
also by other vessels, especially contrabandistas.

The entrance to Plnya Colorada I'Istero Wvs between two lines of breakijig
shoals. To enter pull in to withiu half a mile of the beach eastward of the
entr.ance, and then pull parallel to the shore line, between the two lines of
breakers, carrying from 9 to 12 ft. at low water. The village is 4 or 5 miles
from the mouth of the estero ; it has about 200 inhabitants, engaged \\\ ship-
ping large quantities of dye-wood. The anchorage outside is ir. 5 or 6 fathom.s,
about 4 miles off the entrance, and near the outer edge of the shoals. The
bar lies northward of Saliacca Island, and is diiTicult; it has about 18 feet
on it .it higli water, when coasters cross it. Within it is a wide bay, with
6 to 7 fathoms water, protected from all winds. The shore of the bay is an
extensive mangrove swamp, with numerous esteios. Colorada lies up the
largest estero, on a branch of which is El Manglon, another shij)ping place for
dye-wood.

At 8 miles N.W. J W. from the IJoca Playa Colorada is the entrance to the
Rio de ISinaloa or Cinaloa, useless for navigation. At about 40 miles up the
river is Sinaloa, a Spanish town, now said to be decayed and almost desolate.

At 16 miles W. | N. from the Rio Sinaloa i? the Boca Navachista, tlic
entrance of which is narrow and intricate, with 12 ft. on the bar at low water.
It has become no shallow that tiie town of Navachista is fast becoriing supyr-
tfod(!d by Playa Colorada. At 7 miles to the N.W. there is a remarkable wl\ite
rock, 75 ft. high, in the lagoon. Water may be procured by sinking wells on
J'inorama Island, a. small sand inland between Macapule and San Ignacio
Islan.ls, with several cotton farms on it. There is anchorage in 6 fathojiis,
betwi on '2 and 3 miles from the shore.

by Ml

goods

(' "t^o <

Tope

lias a 1

depth c

stantly .

7 "i- 8 f;i

of San (

bii'iipo ai

I'le nioutl

Uetwee

miles to V

^^^v. win

IX tends 3 <

San Ign

•""ck. 465 f

and only i-c.

^K'lacio p,„-,

Rio del ]

many },crcab

A considerab

fiontfd in ran

^^wal water e

'■''lo village

fO'Ti with El

"""'fe''' it is ,

stands on the f

^^' Hi miles

^''''^•- Alamos,

"'■"•<! of the lat(

^' ••>" excellent

^'■"'■•^"f Sinaloa
Agiabampo J

"•'•'"w and intr
""" 'f >■" liable t
'""' '5 ft. high

' ifcaring E.

i"''™"tl with the
^™"'"g E. i S. 'J
"■'""l. silver ore
'""" "'"• Alamo's

•ii-r.uTr..-._AofAnAMrorqTpnn

'i-ho road W N.vaoh- . -^^^^''^"AMPO ESTKRo.

taw^n .he „,,„,„„ „f . , , ' ""' '"""'"'"SO off

*««' in r„f„ „„,,'"' '"'"■ oomc, „„,„ ;. ,„ , ' "' ">"".. S.„ ,^„.„,,

•"I of Ihc la„„ , ,,,. ''"'"' 'Of 'be smallest ooastr,. . ""• "°«'l

™ of S,„„|„„ ,,„,"''' '"'. <''>^'"S Agi„,^ '■ "1^ Mo„„, Ala,„„,,^

, A.aba„po CX :ty7»- or .J/C™ :i -'- .e

'»*" »hbl',lL""':^^,""'* «- non„o,.„ Thla ;:"/"'^"»-or

-". Aia„,; : ^:;- ;™ ^wo., f,, :,:'"",::»';»"- '•-

ss6&smmiia^^^SS^^^

- • -TMiniiiifriiiiirTiiiim

111 ■'■

it.

1 :

130

THE GULF OF CALIFORNIA.

At 25 miles N.Fi. of Agiab.impo Estero is the entrance of the Rio del Mai/n,
fronted by a bar, leaving a narrow 2-fathoms ehanncl on its eastern side in the
dry season. The country in this A-icinity is fertile and thickly populated.
'I'he Indian village of Santa Cruz lies H miles up the river, ^fotint Alamos,
32 miles N.E. of the entrance, is 5,877 ft. high, and an excellent landmark.

Punta Rosa, at 9 miles W. by S. J S. from the Mayo, is a low reddish
point, about a mile eastward of which is an excellent anchorage in N.W.
winds, but open to the S.K., in Santa llarharn Bay. The best is in 6 or 7
fathoms, three-quarters of a mile from the shore, with the ruins of an Indian
house bearing N.N.W. There is a road from here to Alamos, 32 miles distant.
Provisions were plentiful here.

At 12i miles W.N.W. of Pimta Rosa is Arholeda Point, a few miles iidand
of which is a remarkable clump of trees, an excellent landmark. To tlic
N.W. by N. of Arboleda Point the coast is formed by Ciaris Island, about
12 miles long, and separated from the main land by a narrow lagoon. From
the N.W. end of Ciaris Island the coast extends 42J miles W. by N. ^ N. to
Lobos Point, and is low, sandy, and covered with bushes, with shoal water ex-
tending 1 to 2 miles off the mouths of the lagoons.

Lohos Point, in lat. 27"" 20,^' N., long. 110° 38}' W., is very low and dan-
gerous, from the shoal water extending northward and westward of it, and
recjuires great caution when approaching Guaymas, as the south-easterly
current out of the gulf sets past it with great strength. Lobos Island, of
whieh Lobos Point is the 8.W. extremity, is low and sandy, separated from
•ha main land by the narrow Estero dc la Luna. It is 4J miles long, its
highest point being Monte Verde, a remarkable green mound, 75 ft. high,
about 1 J mile within Lobos Point ; there is a solitary palm tree between the
hill and the p(>int, by which the coasters recognize the locality.

At 30| miles N. I W. of Lobos Point is CWro i'acicoris, a conical hill
450 ft. high, numerous lagoons lying along t.ic coast. Midway between is
the mouth of the new Yaqui River, filled with shoals, and only navigable for
the smallest coasters in the dry season. The old Yuqui Iliver debouches to
the eastward of the Cerro Yacieoris, and its banks are inhabited by some
Indians of the Yaqui tribe.* The waters of the river are much used for
irrigation, and excellent oysters are found in the entrance, and are carried to
Guaymas.

From Cerro Yacieoris the smooth sand-beach, named El Cochori, extends
12| miles westward to Morro Inglcsc at the entrance of Guaymas Harbour.

• This river may become of gome importance horeHfter, for Dr. VVilliiim A. Bf-11 stiitos,
186U, that there are uxtcnRive coal Jieldt on both sidtiB of the Uppnr Yaqui Kiver, of :i
quality tquiil in every re.ipcct to the fmn^t co.il of Nfwcai-tli> or Pennsylvania. Thf- nearcfit
coal to (Juaymas is found at San Marcial, (ill miles distant ; although lliis import.nt fact
will have great weight with *he future of Sonera, the minefl are at too great a diHliince from
the slioro to be available now.

protected

' ■' ' ' I^J

•III

GUAYMAS.

187

About 20 mileo inlaHd, eastward of Cerro Yaeicoris, is the Sierra Yaqui, the
highest peak of which, Mount l?acatelc, is 3,342 ft. high. To the eastward of
the Sierra Yaqui is the smaller range of Baroi/eca.

GUAYMAS is the principal harbour of the Mexican state of Sonora, but it
has hiiherto been of much less importance than Mazatlan, because the back
coiiutry at the latter is well peopled, whereas northern Sonora is almost
uninhabited. It now .ipi^ears probable that it will much increase in im-
portance, a branch lino conm eting it with the Southern Pacific Railway, be-
tween New Orleans and San ! rancisco, completed in May, 1883. The railway
passes to the northward through Hermasillo, the capital of Sonora, to Nogales
on the United States frontier, where it joins the American line.

The entrance to the harbour is two-thirds of a mile wide between Morro
Ingles on the East and Point Baja on the West, and is guarded by a lojig
rocky island called Pajaros, 212 ft. high, lying exactly in front and outside of
it, which makes the harbour doubly secure. The North end of this island is
connected with the shore by a shallow flat of 15 ft., the chann.;) thus passing
between the West side of Pajaros and Trinidad or San Vicente Island. 'J"he
harbour, though small, is well sheltered, and vessels can anchor according to
their draught of water ; vessels of light draught can approach the mole.
According to the ob.servations of the American surveyors, the observation spot,
on the East side of Almagrc Chicho or Almagrito Island, is in lat. 27"^ 54' 35 "N.,
king. 110" 54' 13" W.

The population now numbers about 5,000. E.xeellent flour, fresh bread, and
beef may be obtained at moderate prices ; no salt provisions or ships' stores
could be purchased. Fresh water and wood arc indifferent and expensive.
The mail steamers call here, the Colorado Eiver Steam Navigation Company
having a small coal depot here.

Dr. Bell says that the true harbour of Guaymas covers an area of a little less
than 4 square miles, in which three small islands, the rocky peaks of submarine
lulls, rise perpendicularly from a depth of from 3 to 4 fathoms, and form a little
inner harbour. From the bare volcanic mountains which enclose the Iwrbour
several irregular little promontories project into the water, and occupy much
valuable space. The total area, in i'act, of water more than 4 fathoms in depth,
does not exceed half a square mile.

It is thus described by Lieut. Derby in December, 1851 : — The harbour of
Guaymas is one of the best upon the coast ; it is perfectly landlocked and
protected by its numerous islands from every ([uarter. It has been so often
:mJ HO well surveyed, that it is unnecessary for me to enter into a minute
description of its merits. It is to be regretted, however, that it has not more
water, from 4 to 5 fathoms being the average depth, which is insuflici(>ut for a
ship (if the line, or even a first-cla-ss frigate. We found Guaymas a dirty
pluco, with a dirty population of about 1,500 or 2,000. The houses heing
North Pacific. X

:=raans3saga^

• It

. .IF

M'U^

138

THK GULF OF CATJFOKNTA.

built of adobe, with the roofs Bloping towards the interior, have a vorj' un-
finished appearance, and from the liarbour the town presents the appearunco
of having been abandoned when half built. There are two small piers in a
ruined condition ; and near the landing a large pile of earth, surmounted by
two or three crumbling walls, over which floats from i lofty statf the flag of
Mexico, marks the site of the adobe fort, knocked down by the guns of the
Dale during the late war. There are several wealthy individuals in Guaymas,
who monopolize the whole of the business with the interior of Sonora, but the
mass of the population are in a state of wretched poverty. The water at
(luaymas is obtained from wells, and is slightly brackish. I-lxccllcnt oysters
are brought from the Iliver Ya(iui, which empties into the Viay about 20 miles
South of the town, and sold to the shipping at a dollar a bushel; the Mexicans,
however, make no use of them.

The time of high water at full and change of the moon at Guaymas is not
very accurately determined ; it is, however, between 8 and 9 a.m. The
ordinary rise of spring tides is (J ft., neaj) tides 4 ft. The jihonomenon of four
tides in twenty-four hours has repeatedly occurred here, as I am crediblv
informed. The prevailing winds in May, June, and July, are from the S.l"j. and
S.W. The thermometer during the summer months ranges from 92^" to 98"'
Fahrenheit, the maximum 110°; during winter from 66° to 60", minimum 45".
— Capt. Wilcox, 1850.

Capt. Ilenry Trollope, K.N., gives the following directions: — Guaymas once
having been seen cannot, with ordinary attention, be mistaken ; the whole
coast is so remiirkable that one is only at a loss to say which is the most pro-
minent landmark; nevertheless, as I'ajaros Island lies right before the entrance
when 10 or 12 miles to the eastward, it is a blind harbour ; a stranger without
a chart might well be in doubt as to the entrance, ('aj)e llaro, a bold, bluir
headland, jutting out due South to seaward, and rising with a wall-like clilf
200 ft. from the water, is the best mark for tlie harbour; it has 14 or 1.')
fathoms touching the rocks, and the entrance between Ti-inidad (an island ,so
called from the distinct manner in which it is fornu-d in three divisions united
at their base) and I'ajaros is clear and free from danger, only talking care to
give the points, particularly Punta Tlaja, a berth of half a cable's length ; tlie
lead is quite suffic;ent guide for going in. Secondly, the white smooth bench
of Coehore, extending uninterruptedly from the Morro Inglese at the entrance
of the harbour, 12 miles to the eastward, and terminated suddenly by a still
more remarkable hill, called Cerro Tordillo, or, as we termed it, Morro Afulva,
lies in such contradistinction to the extraordinary mass of hills forming the
ppuinsula, out of whicdi the harbour of (niaynuis is hollowed like the crater d
a volcano, that it is from the contrast almost eqiudly renuirkable.

Further to the northward are the remarkable jjcaks called Tetas de Cabra
(Goat's Teats). Some have recommended these to be made, as the prevaieiii
wiiul is from N.W., and there is certainly no advantage to be gained by getting

ove
Ihxr
TvUi
M'es

rocks

i'</iial

itself;

i'lterio

to he o

twen J

*'■■'.>' wai

M. D,

offing by

<'al)ra, fy

"'fide ou(

''•■'i'lros, ,

■'"'-'er so a."

^'■Tl'our ,„
.V'li ])a,ss h,
'" "'<■ drau

i''''<'''. and tj

'■lllloills. jl
'''I'lOlllJt. 'J'l

'<* ^■'■i-y saf,. ;
"■'■C'l fro,,, ,.,J
P'''^n-nt any l|
IS the only (Jn

^'^'P'nfe' aJonr
""'^^nl not to!

^'"'■ymas is

'" "'f rainy sc

•^'.izatlan.

'^'''^' Mhwii

•^'"^■•'tJan. i)A
"■''•.* from a"

,' '^''"'s will d,..,„J
;"'^' for we are, of
-abeguardudai

r I

I t

guaymas.

over on the Cochorc shore wh.I. . ,• ^^9

f-" ■•' .si..p wHi h..ve th^; ; /, r""^"'^ '""'' *« '''^ -n^w„rd of Cape

^'r «l'o- of a large deep bay (San pt '" "'""' ''^^'•V stand on th

■ . . "'■ "-"i- uitti'i lias iu ... «i 1 . "' " " oour

""■"»■•■ The ,iJ„, „„ ■ '" ■" •k-io bcng „ ,,,„„ „^ -

'" '" «"v o» .Mo i„ .i,e Le: ;?■;'':' ''"" """ " «'■■ *- « r« ■

"" .T.':,no.";, il'? "■""" »' » "■ ™" "'"' '•"' "" "'"™' ■"'"■■'"•-

» -■ <■"". .heir ,,„p,„„„a r J, „r.r, '"•,""'' "" ' "' '■- ■'-■... .

* •""■;■"" -S .he ^on^.U^Z'tTlT:'" '""■ "■ ""■-

«.ee,- „ „, ,„ I, „,,,,„, "'" '"'"■•■""»'. »i" .00,, b„ ,„,, ,,.

;»;'■ »" ""• .»».. ..,.. hUo :; 'rr,'"' - ^ ■«»„,„';■.„;;:

iiaihour once fIn>,M j . "'' 'IiscovemI TI,„ .

"fc (loiil)Jed, two sands iro .„ • , ^'"- ''"trance of thn

''■'^■'•. and those draM-i„., 12 t„ ., . '"' '""^ ^""•'' '"■''Ice fast to the J.UHlin,.
''"'"""- J'-'Kc- -ship, 0.. t , :f , •'""';-'• •■' ''"--t" "f a „n-,., .,«. ;, "^^;

'^ ^-T -■>'•'• m all seasons ; the but o ', -'-'--ble number „f vessels

-" ^^"■» '^n --.uls. and for.„: ^Z:^ '"''""^' ^'^"""''- -'' ^^ T ! :
l'--t an, heavy s.oll reaehin-. r Tb :' r"'"""''"' "'"' '"^'-'^ whi h
^^ the only danger to shipping^, ' '''"' ''•";'^ '>'"^' '" ^«>"t of the e t"
r;7 -^'ong the land. 8ho!id ^v LeT T f ,-'^t"' '" '^'^"'"^ -"by
--f"' not to touch this bank. ''^ ""^''^"^ ^° '^'^'^t in, she should be

'"liiymas is surrounded bv J,;„i
'" ">P rainy season T. ^ "'""ntains, wbich make it . . ,

Ma^atlan. ' "^ "^^'^ ^•'"^ ^-'^ -e prevalent here as .t s nf ' ''''
The follow.-., . "' ''"^ ^^'- -"J

foil
H.JI.S. ^^,_^

lowing

remarks on (

MazatI,

■■"•••'■vcd at Guavni

'»ymas are by Lieut.-Com.

■'« on July 21. St, 18., 7,

^- O. Wool;

./...uan. louring this mc„„ " ""'y -'i.st,

';,■•- °c .«.:::,,:: ::r;::r •''"'-

the winil. «.i,;„i. ^ . '" "our. J' ,,.

.Ig,

'" four day.s fr„

wind,

^vhich, from the I9tli

'lour, jjicy

cun-r„fs runnin,! to

tlu

" to the 21. St

^vcre much influenced
''''' •^»"th-eas,erly and
' 'J'I'is will d,..,non8trat.. (hit t), ' .

'1'!

,:i','''\

,'r

v. 1 ■

itii?' :

... i

1 1

(
I

140

THE GULF OF CALIFORNIA.

i ■ ll'vi

!i'1i;

\::: ..iW

..i

southerly. The current also runs with more force on the eastern shore, which
side we kept.

" Ciipe Ilaro can be easily distinguished by the Tolas or I'aps, which re-
semble the teats of a goat ; they are to the northward. The island of St. Pedro
Nolasco is just visible from the deck to the N.W. The land on the Yaqui
shore i.s higli and peaked ; kecpinj; this broad on your starboard bow, steer to
the northward of a deep bay, where the land breaks off", and you will soon
perceive the island of I'ajaros, which is at the entrance, or facing Guayuias.
The water is deep all along the island of I'ajaros ; that is to say, 4 fathoms, so
close as to throw a biscuit on shore.

" A large ship will have to anchor soon after passing Pajaros ; that is,
abreast the Morro, in 5 fathoms. A small ship can anchor just inside the
isles of Ardilla and Almagro, in 4 and 3^ fathoms ; and in 3 fathoms, as far in
as the point off the town. You may go close to either of the lales Ardilla or
Almagro, in 13 and 3 J fathoms.

" Water is very difficult to be got ; it is to be obtained by sending about
4 miles for it, or it can be purchased ; but, owing to its baring to be brought
in on mules or in carts, the price is very high. I wanted 12 tons, which 1
found could not be obtained for less than 30 dollars, which would be nearly
10s. a ton."*

Of the shores of the gulf northward of Guaymas, our knowledge was very
imperfect till the survey by the U.S. officers in 1873-5, Sccf Previous to
this the chief authorities were the old Spanish charts, and the exploration
made in the U.S. transport Invincible, Capt. Wilcox, 1850, as related by Lieut.
George II. Derby.

At 3i miles W. by N. i N. from Cape Haro is Cape Arco, 970 ft. high, 2J
miles N.W. f N. of which is Punta Coloraria, the coast being high and
barren. At o miles westward of Punta Colorada is Punia Dohle, the Ensenada
de San Francisco lying between, with several islets in it, 10 to 50 ft. high.
On the North side of Punta Colorada is the anchorage of Bacockibampo,

• Jlirnwsillo, which is tho chief town of the state of Senora, is 84 miles by the road
Korth of Quaymas, which may he consiJcred as its port, and wilh which it ia now con-
nected by railway. But the trade of each was not considemblo, for Dr. Boll says that three
merchant vessels in 1867 glutted the markets of both places. Hermosillo is a most curious
and interrstingf old town, resembling whut a large Moorish town in Spain was in tho 17th
century. Its situation is singular ; it is built in the gap which the Rio Sonora has cut
through the wo«tern raimn, and which rises high all around it. It is tho focus of an im-
portant silver mining r> gion, and pofsefsos a mint for coining dollurs. Its inhabitants
number about 2.5,000.

t In 1880 the United Stat-^s Hydrographic OfBce published "Sailing Directions for the
WeBt Coast of Mexico between the U.S. boundary and Cape Curriontes, inclmiing the Gulf
of California," as derived from these surveys. Much of the information there given has been
bcorporated in this work,

slielft>r(
cured.

Hast sic
fiscotui,;

"ncJioivig
^oin(

"'C 2ef,is

tile outer
miles N.-w
'■"cky head
'■' •'^'lip may
San Ped;
'""•'•'•n, aim,
"•'t'l the coa
^^ ^ P'ace on
•Between Sj
'and, 560 ft.
affording „o -
Hiiitc rock, CO
'nsliore are ca
f'o'orado is th,
'"'■'.V be ohtaine,
■^""•'eotfthoe^
^'rom hence t
'^ AV«o Po{„(^ .
'' 'J'*' San Jua,
"''"ch extend 4 ^
J^ctween Kino
'" ">« mainland
""^" vessels ean'^

'"'«'''e bottom
^^" 'J'is part of
" ''e met ,vith.

•''"°""f their M'a

;■':''"'" ^'^'and, fs ;

'■"" ^'000 to 4,000
, ;'"^" ■^'"' intricat

/'''"^°" has Jong ,
'■^^ of about 500,

< \

R.l

III

l!J

sheltered from tho S p „ , . ^^^ I41

^"^'••'- A lull, I 450^'.. , "■' ^'''^ ^'"T. beef fruif ^

^--'*./.,a„„ M '?"r " *'- entrance to ' ' "! ^''^' ""'''-'•"ge. On the

--- ^'^ :"/::r " ^^^^ -^ ^ - ^ i^:^^^:::: ^;; ^^-- -

- *r tr n ^'---^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ - -- '.

, «« '■'.To so,..oo iZ'^ ■;■'»'■ " °' "• '- -"-'■

between San Pe.lro P • ^'"'^'^'^

•'fcl' «,c„d 4 „i. '"'° f "". '« lo„. ,„,, „„ , . ";°- ''■• coast, k„o».„

» 'k« -inland, 2J „,i ", tCtrvt""'' " ' '' '''"'^Zlr T'^T-

-»" ""■• part of ,h ' „, . ^" '^"" LaK«,„

raWOS ISLAM ."?;" '■°'- '"'■««-»■ """"• '■" " "'^'

■'*'" '»'"»'!. i. 29 mi Jl,! ■/"" °' "'■'"l' tear, Ws w ,„ •,
"S'lic largest i,l,„ , ""'""S «. I,j- E. a„,| x bv W ""'« f™™

,::»•■ "-i in.rioate ch,„ ' ' " ■' "P'-^M fro, t'" ' "■•""'•'

, ';» ^«. -on, c: r: :::;' ti' " '-" -^-^ * -

■■'« of about 500 whnn ^"^ ^^otJe of the r-n r

-'»-.-oi...sc,,t., as o„te4: :::'*-«-«

^"<-, and invariably-

IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)

1.0

I.I

1.25

V^ |2 8

125

2.2

ii^ 110

1.4

1.8

1.6

Photographic

Sciences
Corporation

33 WEST MAIN STREET

WEBSTER. NY MSBO

(716) 872-4503

L-c'

%°

142

THE GULP OP CALIPORNIA.

opposing any attempt at landing ; thej are said to be armed with poisoned
arrows. During the stay of the Narrugantett they at first were shy, and
made threatening gestures, but afterwards bccnmc very friendly. A rich bed
of pearl oysters is said to exist between this island and the coast of Sonora,
and there arc accounts of rich gold mines upon the island : but as no one is
ever known to have landed there, it is difficult to understand how the fact was
ascertained. A species of large deer is found on the island in large numbers.

Between the North and N.W. extremes of Tiburon is Fresh-water Bay^
affording anchorage in 6 to 7 fathoms, three-quarters of a mile from the shore,
sheltered from south-easters, but open to tho N.W. The eastern side of tlie
island is generally low and sandy, but near the S.E. point the coast becomes
steep, with rocky bluffs. On the North side of the peninsula, of which tlie
S.K. point is the extremity, there is good anchorage in 5 or 6 fathoms, sheltered
from the prevailing winds. It is said that fresh water may be obtained at an
Indian settlement, 5} miles northward of the anchorage.

Monument Point, the southern point of Tiburon, is a rocky bluff, 3J miles
S.W. by W. from the S.E. point, with a sandy beach between. About IJ mile
south-eastward of it is Turner Island, a small barren island, about 1 J mile long,
and 560 ft. high, with a reef of rocks extending towards <S«o/ Rock, 150 ft.
high, between which and Monument Point is a clear channel a quarter of a
mile wide, through which 5 fathoms may be carried. A dangerous rock, awash
at high water, lies 6 cables S.W. by S. J S. from the islet.

From Monument Point the 'ioast trends about W. by N. J N. 15J miles to
Willard Point, and is a succession of rocky bluffs. Between Monument Point
and Red Bluff Pc' t, 2J miles to the westward, is a small bay, with good an-
chorage in 5 or 6 fathoms, a quarter of a mile from the sandy beach, sheltered
from N.W. winds; the tide rises 6 to 8 ft. Willard Point, the S.W. extremity
of Tiburon, is a bold cliff, over 300 ft. high ; there is said to be tolerable an-
chorage in 7 fathoms, about 1^ mile eastward of it, and close to the shore. A
'orgc white rock, 30 ft. high, lies 1^ cable off shore, at i\ miles eastward of
the point.

The western shore of Tiburon from Willard Point to the N.W. extremity, a
distance of 21 miles, is mostly steep, with rocky bluffs. A number of rocks lie
close off the N.W. extremo.

San Estevan or Bruja Island, 6J miles to the S.W. of Tiburon, presents an
exceedingly wild and sterile appearance, resembling the generality of the gulf
coast on the California side. The appearance of the water between this island
and that of St. Lorenzo led us to suppose that we were on soundings, but on
trying the deep-sea lead we found no bottom at 100 fathoms. — {Derby). It in
about 4 miles long and 3 miles wide, and from 800 to 1,800 ft. high. There
are two tolerable anchorages off its southern end, on either side of a low
■and-spit.

San Pedro Martir Islet lies 22^ miles S. } £. from the South end of

/ ;..: in;

LIBERTAD BAY— GEORGE ISLAND.

143

Tiburon Island. It is a barren triangular rock less than 2 miles in extent,
rising to a height of 1,052 ft. Three small islets lie off its southern end, the
smallest being half a mile distant. The other islands to the westward of
Tiburon are described hereafter with the opposite coast.

Patoi Island, H miles N. } W. from the N.W. end of Tiburon Island, is small
and low except on the N.W. side, where it rises in a conical hill 310 ft. high.
It is barren and nearly white from the guano deposits. In N.W. winds there
is a tolerable anchorage on its southern side, in 5 fathoms, sand, a quarter of a
mile from the beach. Spring tides rise 10 ft., neaps 7 feet.

At 8 miles N.W. by N. ^ N. from the northern end of Tiburon is Cape
Trpopa, a bold headland 1,857 ft. high. At 6^ miles south-eastward of it is
Sargent Point, a barren rocky hill, 150 ft. high, at the South extremity of a
low and narrow neck of land partially overflowed at high water springs ; just
West of the point is a small bight, where there is tolerable anchorage in 7
fnthoms, half a mile from the shore.

From C!ape Tepopa for 39 miles N.W. \ N. to Cape Lobos the shore is low
nnd sundy, bucked by a coast range 600 to 2,300 feet high. Cape Lobos is a
rocky headland, 702 ft. high, with some sunken rocks off it.

Libertad Bay or anchorage, also called the Puertecilos, lies eastward of Cape
Lobos, and is well protected from N.W. winds, but open to the S.E. Anchor
in 8 or 9 fathoms, about half a mile from the head of the bay ; here spring
tides rise 12 ft., neaps about 9 ft. There is a road from here to the town of
Altar, Libertad being a shipping port for agricultural and mineral products.
At 23 miles N.W. by N. J N. from Cape Lobos is Cape Tepoca or Topoca,
oUU ft. high, and of a reddish colour, appearing as an island when first seen
from the northward. There is a rocky headland, 1,642 ft. high, about 13 miles
southward of the cape.

Tepora Bay lies to the eastward of the cape ; its western point is low and
rocky, with a reef, covered at high water, extending a short distance south-
ward of it. There is good anchorage, in 5 or 6 fathoms at low water, inside
this point, well sheltered from N.W. winds; spring tides rise about 15 ft.,
and neiips 12 ft. A hill, 540 ft. high, of a dark red colour on a yellow bed,
lies just to the northward of the cape, and is an excellent guide to this an-
chorage.

San Ignacio River, 18 miles N.W. J N. from Cape Tepoca, only breaks
through the sand-bar at its mouth during the rainy season, but fresh water
may be procured at all times just behind the sand-hills. To the N.W. of the
river the coast becomes lower, and as far as Shoul Point, 90 miles distant, con-
sists of low sand-hills, with some low stunted bushes on them. Shoal water
I'xtonds from the shore nearly all along this const, and the wind perpetually
raises clouds of the fine sand composing the shore.

George Island lies near the central part of a large indentation of the coast,
named George Bay, 6 miles off shore, and 48J miles N.W. | N. from (Jape

mv.

i> :4.-'> '■■■ m:

Cl\

144

THE GULF OF CALIFORNIA.

i;'' <;■ ''

111

Tepoca. It is merely a Imrron rock, 20fi ft. high, with rocks extending over
half a mile north- went ward of it, Humo nhove water, and others awash at low
water. In S.Fi. winds there is tolerable anchorage in 3J fathoms on the
northern side of the island, oif a sninll sand-beach covered at high water,
which connects the island with the nearest rock. Guano is abundant here,
and has been worked.

Bocky Point is a low black point, 20 miles N.W. by W. from George
IsUnd, ond about 5 miles farther W. by N. is Rocky lilufT, 408 ft. high, a
snaall open b'xy lying between them.

From Rocky Hluff the coast trends to the northward and westward for many
miles, forming the open bay named Adair. This bay is nearly 30 miles deep,
entirely open to the S.K., and filled with dangerous shoals. Shoal Point, on
the eastern side of the entrance of the Colorado River, is low and sandy, and
lies 45i miles W. by N. from Rocky Point.

About 9 miles W.N.W. from Shoal Point the beach projects slightly, and
behind it are some sand clilFs at the foot of the hills. Direction Sand-Mil,
which lies behind this projecting beach, is .'iSfi ft. high, and easily recognised
by a growth of bushes at its foot. It is an excellent mark for entering the
river.

Port Isabel. — A channel, with 2 to H fathoms at low water, leads from
Shoal Point to the slough of Port Isabel, 24 miles to W.N.W., passing the
mouth of Santa (Uara River, marked by a beacon on its West side, llie
entrance of Port Isabel is also marked by beacons ; the settlement is about 2J
miles up, und serves as a repairing place for the river boats. The lead is the
only guide, as the shoals are constantly shifting. At full and change the tide
runs with great strength, sometimes at the rate of as much as C miles an
hour.

It is high water at Shoal Point, on full and change, at about 0** 30*" ; spring
tides rise 25 to 30 ft, neaps G to 10 ft.

The head of the Gulf of California has evidently been formed by the detritus
brought down by the singular but almost useless river, the Rio Colorado.
There is no doubt that it is subject to very great changes,* and therefore no
directions can be useful for any period.

Jr. .;"'...■ i;

* The head of the f^ulf prubaMy wiio much farther northward in earlier ages of the
world's history. For at from 80 to 150 milps N.N.W. from the present mouth of the
Colorado is an area called the Salt Lake. This is shown by barometrical obaervKtiumi to
be beleu) the aoa-levpl. It ii now a dry plain of alluvial formation, with a bvach lino dis-
tinctly tmceablo. Mr. W. P. BLiko, of Washington, explains its formation by inforrir.jj;
that the silt or matter brought down by the river has fiUoa up the interval, and shut it off
from the gulf. The water was then evaporated by the dry winds of that desert region ;
and again, the water of the Colorado, at the time of freshets, overflows and runs back into
the desert for many miles. It has been prnpoied to inundate this area by means of a canal
from the head of the gulf, as stated in the note on p. 129.

The B
of the HK
its length
course hm
California
from its t
which drni
the juiicti(
North .side
Coin Jinny ;
to 100 tons
Mated that l
never travel
pas.ses by Fc
a distance of
flora .Salt In
licre are intei
tile lowest ex
Yuma, betwc(
p-^ports from
Above Cnlv
noraenon— the
tlirough the st
'fie level of th(
uiie.xani])Ied sii
oftraii.sjjort, or
I'ifut. Derby
T'le bar at th
"ic souruliiigij u
''"ttom, and wit
drawing a foot c
junction of the C
"" miles, owinj,
""Jo is but little
■^lontac/ue and
"'■i^edfromllanlj

THE BIO COLOHADO.
The BIO COtOHADO ,-, ♦) *<«

l'^"f ' bein, estimated at 1.050 ^^ The"" T ?" ""''^^ ^"-»«'-.
cour«o ho. only been known within a rl . """^ °'""-«'=^'- of it« upper

California fro.„ the territory ^A.l" f""'- '^ '^"••'^- »'- ^ta^
- its .o,H i« .He iunetiont^r'^2^;^ '' '""- - <^i-t dile/
Iwch drau. the rieh fining di«trict^^of ^E /'"' " "'"' ''"""^^""^ «^-m
t!'e junction is .4mo„a Cu, .,, *;. „ ^i^" ^"^°'"»- On the South side of
^•".•th .ide i, .,, ,,,„„, ,,f , J : It-^^^^^^^^^^^^ '"> --... and on the
Company; this e«„,pany. with another ll "'" ' "''^'•'"^" ^"^'^'n Navigation
t" 100 t.„s burthen. The conditio of " "'" "'""^^^'^ "»^ ^'-K- of 70
stated that these eraft draw o„.Z^[^l T V '" ^'''''' "^ ^- 't s
never travel by ni,ht. The J„ ll „ ''' "' '"-^"'^ '^'^^ '-'l^''^. »-
passes by Fort Yuma. The river is „avi , ®""'''"" J'^cificliailway

ad.taneeof «,2nailes by the ";;;'' ' '° '''''"'''^' '« '»t. 36" ,3 N^^
rom Salt Lake City, with'wh eh e^" "^ ,"""•• ""^ ^«« ""'- S S W*

- are intensely hot (rising ^^^ :'^:;''y ^ ^-<^ -d. The su.. I'
tl'e lowest extreme being 34^ Th. '^' ''"' *''« ^^inters are mil^^

Vun.. between I8.7-l'se?. wa^oIlylT "T"" "'^"^" '" ^ >-" -T e'
exports from the river are hemp, ant v" ^JlVr """"'"• ''' ^^^^^

Above Calvdle the Colorado runs thr \ u ""P^^'"''' °'-^«-

no.e„on--the Grand CaHon, a go^ ' Lotl T '""" ^^■"""^''•^"' ^'-1 phe-

the le,el of the river than it is on thn , ' ^•""^' ''^"«'^'y broader nf

-ampled singularity whieC^ 7^^:'"^ '' ''' ^^^^ ^^^
or transport, or for fertilising the eount y ro 'T'T^'''"-' "-- formean

I-ut. Derby says of it ( jLuary. f) ' "'"'^ " «-"•*

The bar at the mouth of the cJ .

*».U8 „ fe, „, „„„ ,t.^ '^ ■= "M fore, her .-.y „„ ^^ J

-"«»"r,h.„;,.„, Colorado Jj™''„';^-'«- TI.0 di.„..„r„„ ,J
'" ■"'''•• ""'"g to the „„„ b,„, of ,r °"''»'""". % ».tcr, i, about

•In Dr. lioil's •• No,^ TracT^^^ ^ ___J|^^y^_andare sepa-

''f*' ' . * * ¥ 'T« III) A I

'»•

. ? 1

; '

■I

'! i.

"'i' f^. J. If ^ • T ?

14G

THE GULF OF CALIFORNIA.

1! :

rated by a very shallow channel a mile wide. The country here is covered
with dwarf reed and courHC grass. Thousands of trunks of trcco lie seutti-rcd
over its surface uh far aa the eye can roach, showing that it muat be entirely
overflowi'd in the season of the freshets.

'J'he navigation of the Gulf of California presents none of those difficulties
which we liad been led to anticipate. The wind we found invariably from tlie
N.W., which, at tliis season of tlie year, is its prevailing direction; it is only
during the months of .June, July, and August, that the gales from the S.K. arc
prevalent ; except in Whale Channel we noticed none of the strong currents
so freciuently mentioned as existing in the gulf.

It would be dirtieult to mistake the entrance to the river, it being in fact the
li' '\d of the gulf, which gradually narrows from 40 to 3 miles when it is joined
by the r, ver, whose turbid stream discolours the gulf for many miles to the
southward, in soundings of 12 and 14 fathoms. On the Sonora coast, how-
ever, exi.sts an indentation some 15 or 20 miles in depth, called by Hardy
Adair i?ay ; the shoals of this can be seen from the mast-head, a view from
which would prevent one falling into the error which he did of supposing it a
mouth of the Colorado. The angle at the junction of the slough and the main
river is called Arnold Point, and from the mouth of the river (after crossing
the bar) tci this point, the channtl varies in depth from 15 to 30 ft., at ordinary
high tide, and may, as we have practically demonstrated, be ascended by a
vessel having a draught of 8 or 9 ft., by taking advantage of the flood, which
has a velocity of from 3 to 5 miles j)er hour. It is impossible to sail up, how-
ever, for although the river varies in width from 3 miles to GOO yards, the
channel is narrow and the navigation elsewhere obstructed by the numerous
sand-bars. The proper method, after passing Gore and Montague Islands
through the western channel of the river, is that which we adopted, to drift
with the flood tide, keeping close to the highest bank, sounding contimwiiy,
and anchoring before the time of high water : in this way we progressed
slowly, but steadily, making, perhaps, 4 or 5 miles per day, until we arrived at
the point where wc finally landed the stores, which I have named " Invincible
Toint."

The mouth of the Colorado has evidently greatly changed since Hardy's
visit in 1826. The ebb tide was observed to run at 5 J miles an hour, and the
flood comes in with a " bore," a bank of water, 4 ft. high, extending dear
across the river, and occurs daily till near neap tides, proving the assertion of
Hardy, that " t/iere is no sur/i thiuij as slack water in the lliver Colorado"

In January, 1851, the depth in the entrance of the Colorado was from 2^ ft.
to IJ fathom. I

Above Arnold or Philip Point, on which is a black beacon, the river is verj'
circuitous, the channel becomes narn.w, and the water hos less depth. Accord-
ing to the U.S. survey, the beacon on Philip Point is in lat. 31° 46' 10' X.,
long. 114" 43' 31" W.

The

of tho

feet, nn

from tj]

'hores a

country

The \

tlic CoJor

nnd i„ J,,,,

slioals e.xt

Consac*

I'oint. is ,

'''■'t.ince it
"""•'c for «h
'■"ne n« !/„,
10 iia/f „,„,-,

'">'' and do.
*'"''tor from I
*'""-e ; the bw
'fie bay. with

^' '' •'''■•'ted th,,,

/^' -'«i niiJe.s

^'"lama/iue, or

'""''«t niountji/l

'"" miJes off, ha

''°"''d to exist i\

^'>m Point A

'""'her to S. by

'''"' ti'/8 rising tl

^''''thwnrd of (hJ

' "' kv \y. i M-1

^''''"fto the.V.Avl
""■''"''■'"tismo.'tlvl
"'""-P-int, beingl

""'''■^'''•■'tnnt.nndJ
'^"" ^uis M,„i

"''"^'.'•"miJcoffiJ
''■'!"""•'<'" either]
'■'"'•■'I'lin half a r

"■'""I'e northern eJ
'^ """guous roc' a

I--.

COXSAO H0CK^3,^ ,,,, ,,,^^^

T'^o time of h;.h * . ""'^ '^^A^D. , .,

fro'» the mouth. Near ♦! *"^''' '""t'"" censes at „k '^"

'f-oros are thickly hW t '"""*'' ^''^'^ " "o veKetatl K Vu " '" '"''^•«
-'""try with « 1 u''"'' '""^' "'•l'«. -maU S ; "* ^•»^'^'- "P 'he

tl'c Colorado Hivor.,? ' ^""'' '"'•'"" '•^"''i^'-"/. Po.„, .

b «OCJt, or S/tn, li„ J ,

""- '" -",.it:;rr;:'".t'"' r •''- -'i. ::. i';:^- ,t' »

Siime a8 Hnnlv'« rv <-olonu!o l^iver ontrn. . " excellent

%y* Po.«(f lies 13 •, ^oiaisre-

ftrther to S. bv V i v T ^"^^ '''■°'" ^an Felin- P„- *

'"•"'"'•ard of the I„tter fZ V '"^ ™'''"' ^"'""d. There ■'''"'^^'•

i> • '• * "• from the point i« „ . ' '^et h ifh ins •,

Point to the N.W ,,oinf f c * ^""'^ 'nndmark P * ""'^''

"^•"« point,; ' ;;•;';• : '^- """^^' ^^^^ ^:2^'\ -' '^ '"^'-. •

"^"'Iv a mile off its s W 2 '""'^' ^'"^ " low «„„ , •

^^^-^'oneithersideo/t e::„;r '^^ '' '^''' ^^ZZZ "^^"^''""^
"'V' '*■'""" J-'f H mile. ,:;'"'"'• "^-•"'"y to thel. , "'^^^ '»"^' !
"'""i'enorth.mendof S ' ' '""••'*>• '^'^'t 478 ft , ""' "^''-o^^h-

A -6.0U. roc' 2:" ^"" ''^' " '^'^'^ ' -"^'-s Ion ' '*^"' ''^ ^"""-^^'cl

^'"^ '""• -^-' '- H mil. KaT.. t7^ j- -ter.

"y -^' i N. ftom

i:^'

t.t

«^»- • i""." 4'""./' Kr^ilik

;r "In

148

THE GULP OF CALIFORNIA.

Cantada, and nt is J miles N.W. by W. from Cantada w a reef of ;ockg, some
awash at low water, over half a mile in diameter. Another rock, awuhh at
low water, lies nearly a mile duo North from the N.W. end of San Lnis.

San Luis Gomales Hay affords j^ood anchora^^e, protected from south-
eosters; its whores arc low, ami 12 miles up the river at its head are tlie ruins
of the old mission of C '•mujuel, near which are some pools of fresh water.
From /'iHfl/ Point, tht eastern point of the bay, the coast trends about S.K. by
£. ^ E., 20^ miles, to Bluff Point, and is nearly all high and precipitous, with
hills rising to over 1,900 ft. about a mile inland.

Bluff Point, on the West side of the northern entrance to Balknaa or
WhaU Channel, separating Angel de la Guardia Island from the shore, is a
bold rocky bluff about 100 ft. high, und may be recognised by Sharp Peak,
3,189 ft. high, 6i miles S.W. i "W. from it. Double Peak, 5,440 ft. high, lies
13 J miles S. by W. ^ W. from the point. The tidal currents are very strong
at times in Ballenas Channel.

ANOEL DE LA OUARDIA ISLAND, or Angeles Island, is over 40 miles
in length, parallel with the coast, from which it is 7 to 12 miles distant, its
greatest breadth being about 10 miles. It is high, rocky, barren, and unin-
habited, except by iguanas and rattle-snakes. A range of mountains, 3,000 to
over 4,000 ft. high, extends its entire length, being most elevated in the
northern part. The whole of the western shore is inaccessible, and without
any anchorage. On the eastern side arc several open bays, where vessels may
anchor sheltered from the prevailing winds. Abreast the island, and about 27
miles inland, was the mission of San Francisco de Borjn.

At 3 miles northward of the South extreme of the island, a sharp bluff point
with a hill, 772 ft. high, a mile northward of it, is a small strip of sand beach,
at a quarter of a mile off which there is anchorage in 7 to 9 fathoms, protected
from north-westerly winds. About IJ mile beyond this is a sharp point, off
which is Pond Island, 1 mile long and 400 ft. high, connected to the poiiU; by
a reef. The coast between Pond Island and Rock Point, a bold headland with
cliffs over 500 ft. high, 12 miles to N.W. by N., forms an open bay in its
southern part, where there is good anchorage protected from south-easterly
winds. There is also anchorage just South of Rock Point, in 5 to 8 fiithoms.
From hence to Bluff Point, the N.E. extreme of the island, the distance is 26
miles to N.W. by W., the southern part of this coast forming a large open bay,
and the northern part being a succession of rocky bluffs.

Puerto Refugio, westward of Bluff Point, and sheltered by Mojia and
Granite Islands, consists of two harbours, with good anchorage sheltered from
every wind. Mejia Island is over IJ mile long, and rises to a height of 857
feet, and has a dangerous reef extending 4 cables N. by E. of its northern
point. Granite Island, about three-quarters of a mile eastward of Mejia, is a
little over three-quarters of a mile long, and 281 ft. high ; the channels on
either side of it are over three-quarters of a mile wide, with 15 to 30 fathoms,

lending to tl
To enter, bri
to bear ahoul
i"« it steer fc
'«. •" 0^ or 7
The wcsten
wide, and is c
n ffrotip of roc
I J" yards wid,
connects the i\
not less than 4
northward of S
from the South
^^'l^'ite R„ek, j
isl.md which s<

-^' >'.v K. I E., ,
and shells. Spi

I'rom Bluff I
SK. by E., 2G n,
of rocky bluffs, I
Point is low and
3 miles in extent,
The best is in 1
bcnring about N.
From the S.W.
coa.st is composed
inlets, 15 to 30 ft.
ANGELES BA
is a fine sheet of v
landlocked, being
beaches, and in th
the shore.

The adjacent coi
with larr'c boulden
''oot of the highest
wsters is exposed
'vhich grow about
Kv is ui)parciitly ^
*w many traces o
fmaiii seasons of tl
member, 18,50, all w
ported to be rich in
Smith Island, the

ANGELES BAY.

149

Icndinjj to the eastern harbour, which is about l^ mile in extent either way.
To enter, brinj; H'/tite Ruck, near the centre of the Imrbour, and 11 ft. hi>;h,
to bear about midway of the entrance of cither, and steer for it, and after pass-
ing it steer for the best anchorage, about three-quarters of a mile due South of
it. in nj or 7 fathoms, sand. Some rocks extend off the shores of the islands.

The western harbour is about a mile long N.K. and S.W., by half n mile
wide, and is entered from the westward between the South point of Mejia and
a group of rocks lying off the N.W. point of Angel dc la Guardia. A channel,
\M yards wide, between Mejia and an island lying between it and the shore,
connects the two harbours, and by steering N. by V.. \ E. through the centre
not les.^ than l fathoms will be found, fo enter the western harbour, being
northward of Sail Rock, a, sharp conical rock, 167 ft. high, 1 J mile S.W. J S.
from the South point of Mejia. steer for the middle of the entrance, keeping
White Rock, in the eastern harbour, in range with the South end of the
island which separates the harbours, until the eastern point of Mejia bears
N. by K. 3 E., when you will be in the best anchorage, 6 to 7 fathoms, sand
and shells. Spring tides rific iibout l.T ft., neaps !) ft.

From IJluff Point, before mentioned, the coast of the mainland trends
S.Iv by E., 2G miles, to Uemedios Point, and is on almost unbroken succession
of rocky bluffs, 50 to ISO ft. higli, with no anchorage or shelter. Remedios
Point is low and sandy, and southward of it "s an open bay of the same name,
3 miles in extent, where anchorage may be fo.jnd, sheltered from N.W. winds.
The best is in 10 fathoms, off a red hill 200 ft. high, with Uemedios Point
bearing about N. by E. .J E., distant IJ mile. The tide rises about 12 ft.

From the S.W. end of Remedios Bay to the entrance of Angeles Bay the
coast is composed of rocky bluffs, and off its northern part are three small
islet*. 15 to 30 ft. high, the two southern ones being of a whitish colour.

ANGELES BAT, abreast the southern end of Angel de la Guardia Island,
is a fine sheet of water, covering an area of about 25 miles, almost completely
lundlocked, being protected by numerous islands. The shores are mostly sand
beaches, and in the southern part shoal water extends some distance off from
the shore.

The adjacent country is extremely wild and rugged. The hills are covered
with large boulders. There .are three spring* of .slightly brackish water at the
foot of the highest hill (Hound Top Mo\mtain), and a bed of most excellent
uystcrs is exposed at low tide. The water may be found by noticing the reeds
which grow about it, and which are the only green things in the vicinity. The
b!\y is apparently well known to the people inhabiting the interior, as there
*ere many traces of old encampments, &c. There are plenty of turtle, and in
certain seasons of the year there nmst be great (juantitics of water, but in Oe-
ccmbcr. 18.")0, all was dr and parched. — {Lieut. Derby.) The country is rc«
ported to be rich in copper and silver-lead ores, and sulphur.
Soiiih I$land, the uorthei amost aad largevt of the isluuds off Angeles Bay,

;>■:..'

III' :^- it!''-.

f >

•* -l:

M-^

■«;■■')■

if:!

150

TIIK OULF OF CALIFORNIA.

■ i'i:'; .•':

4Ji? •;. >!■

III) ii . 4 , .

iiil.

• ^■i<i-

18 4 miles lonp. nnd narrow, riding to a height of 1,654 ft. nt its N.W. extreme,
elouc off wliich i» on inlet, CO ft. high. Another islet lies close off its western
side, with some dimnerous rocks half a mile N.W. of it. A white rock, 40 ft.
high, lies a little over half a mile southward of Smith Island, and I| milo to
the south-eastward is an islet 125 ft. high.

There are several deep and safe passages into Angeles Dny, which may bo
safely used when the land can be distiiiguishcd. The southernmost is between
Jird Point and two islets, ."iO to 70 ft. high, about 'A cables northward of it.
Another passage lies between these islets and a dark reddish-coloured island,
half a mile to the northward, which has a hill, 225 ft. high, on its sotitherii
side, with a monument on it. The pa.ssagc between this island and a group of
islands abo»it 1| mile to the N.W., contains mony rocks, sunken and awash,
nnd is dangerous. The northern passage, a mile wide, is between Smith Island
and a long narrow neck of land which extends ^\ miles to the S.K. from the
mainland, and is terminated by a rocky bluff; when up with this bluff, the
channel passes between it and the group of islands last mentioned. The bight
westward of the neck of land was not examined.

To enter by the southernmost pas.sage, bring Round Top Mountain, 3,423 ft.
high, lying 2 miles from the western shore of the bay, to bear S.W. by W. J W.,
nnd steer for it till nearly up with lied Point, when keep in mid-channel, nnd
steer West for the best anchorage, at the mouth of a .small cove formed by a
low sand-spit projecting over half n mile fiom the mainland iu a southerly
direction. In using the northern passage, keep well over towards the main-
land, to avoid the dangerous rocks westward of Smith Island. After pa.ssing
between the group of islands and the extremity of the narrow nock, keep at
least a mile from the land to avoid a shoal extending off it, and when the point
cf the low sand-spit bears West, haul up fbr the anchorage. Spring tides rise
about 12 ft.

La> Animal Bay. — From the West point of Angeles Bay to the entrance of
Las Animas Hay the coart chieHy consists of sharp rocky points, with some
outlj...^ rocks off them, and backed by high land. From the N.W. point of
the bay the coast trends 5 mile* southward, nnd then bends round to the N.K.
to Las Animas I'oini, which is a bold rocky bluff, 125 ft. high, di miicH
E. 3 S. from the N.W. point ; the enclosed bay affords good anchorage with
protection from the prevailing winds. The best anchorage is in the southern
part, in 6 to 12 fathoms, nearly on a line between the entrance of the small
lagoon at the bottom of the bay and the point, or the islets off it, lying about
2 miles to the N.W.

At the back of Las Animas Point are some steep reddish-coloured hills, 300
to 500 ft. high, and from hence to the N.W. limit of San Bafael Hay the coast
con.sists of rocky bluffs, backed by high mountains. Barnubc Rocks, two
rocks only 2 ft. above the water, lie 3^ miles southward of Las Animas Point,
aud from 3 to 4 cables off a low point, the channel between being only fit for

boati. T

thonis, CO

about y ft

^an Ra

wiiuls. It

covered w

I>.iy, i.s a Id

'iistance M

the hills.

Sal-si.pui
theX.W. o
current sets
watc.- being
choragc mig
Isles.

To the S.I

islands, once

j)()sed of coar

Iinnieuse qua:

isliinils of the

I'artida hi

111 (iuardia, up

uith two j)eak

Morthward, wi

oil tlic ea.stern|

-'!» fathoms bel

Partida is n'/,\

(if a mile nortlj

Baza Islanc

BAL-SI-PUKDES CHANNEL— RAZA ISLAND,

161

boat*. To the southward of the rocks there is fair uiichorngc in 7 or 8 fa-
thoniH, coarse saud, about a quarter of u mile oU' the bvuch. The tide rises
about '.) ft.

San Ea/ael lint/ is nn open bay, affording good protection from southerly
winds. Its shores consist principally of sand beaches, and the interior hind is
covered with vegetation. Sun Francisquito Point, the eastern jmint of tho
hay, is a low rocky Ijluff, with a number of rocks lying close ofl it ; at a short
ilistiince West of it, it is suid that fresh water may be found at the foot of
tho hills.

Sal-si-puedes Channel separates the islands of San Lorenzo, pad those to
the N.W. of it, from the mainland; it is wide and deep, and ihrough it the
current sets strongly, especially with an ebb tide and a N.W. winil. Tho
watc being deep, there are few jjlaces where a vessel may anchor, but an-
chorage might bo found near the western shore, or ueur Uaza aad I'artidu
Isles.

To the S.E. of the South point of Angel de la Guardia Island are three small
islands, onc(! named Las Arrinas, Animas, or Allen Islands. They are com-
posed of coarse clay slate, coloured trap, and trap tufa, and covered wit' cacti.
Immense quantities of seals arc found upon these, as well as most of the other
islands of the gulf.

I'artida Island, about C miles S.E. J E. from the South point of Angel de
la (iuardia, appears from u distance like two islands, and is about \\ mile lung,
with two i)L'iiks 100 ft. high. On its western side is u small cove, open to the
northward, with from a to 8 fathoms of water, and about one-third of a mile
oil the eastern side is a small islet, 75 ft. high, there being anchorage in 5 to
'.Ml fathoms between, sheltered from N.W. winds. At (i cables northward of
I'artida is White Rock, 175 ft. high, from which a reef extends about one-third
of a niilo northward, ending in a rock 2 ft. above low water.

Raza Island, 4i miles S.E. by E. from Partida, is about three-quarters of a
mile long East and West, and 100 ft. high, the guan(» on it giving it a white
aiil)uanmce. On its South side is a pier, house, and Hagstati', about 'A cables
(itr which there is anchorage in 5 to 8 fathoms, gravel and rock ; a reef, ex-
tending a short distance otf the S.E. point, must be carefully avoided. liaza
liuck, 75 ft. high, lies over a mile N.W. by W. J W. from the N.W. point of
liiv/M ; at '2 cables off its S.W. side is a rock awash. The guano on lia/.a has
been worked for several years past, the company having removed over 10,000
tuns in the first two years.

^al-si-puedes Island, 4jf miles S. by E. J E. from llaza, is about IJ mile
long N.W. and S.E., its highest peak, near the southern end, being 376 ft.
liigh. .Several detached rocks lie off the island, and nearly midway between
it and the northern San Lorenzo Island is a rock awash ; the channel is a
mile wide, and, as it is probable there are other dangers, it should not be
used.

fii*

til* I

■'■):,

K,\' ? •■■• ft '.(4

n i-i

I '1

ijij ■■'!*■'! ■
4j dUu

1S2

THE GULP OF CALIFOIINIA.

San Lortnto hland w \'1\ milus long, nnd from 1 to 2 milcR wido ; it ii
high and barren, tlic liighi'ht peak, ucur its southern end, being 1,5<J2 ft. high.
At 3 niilcH from the N.W. end Ih a narrow bout passage, dividing it into two,
and at 'A miloit south-eastward of this passage, on tho West side of the island,
is a sand beach, wliere landing may bo effected in smooth weather. In N.W.
winds, there is u good landing i)lace at a small suud beach ut tho S.K. extreme
of the island. The shore is generally bold.

San Ksteban and San I'eJro Murtir I*lund» arc described previously on
pp. 142—143.

At 2 miles S.K. J E. from Sau Eraneisquito Point is tho N.W. point of San
Francisijuito litty. The entrance is about u mile wide, and tho boy is open to
North and N.E., but atlbrds good shelter from N.W. nnd 8.E. winds. The
best anchorage is in tho S.W. part of the bay, in 5 to 6 fathoms, about a
quarter of a mile off a sand beach. A shallow cove opens into the southern
p:'rt of the bay ; the country in the vicinity is extreme'y barren ond stony.
San Gabriel J'oint, the outer eastern point of San rranciscpiito Jlay, is a
rocky bluff 45 ft. high, with high volcanic hills beiiind it, and i.umcrous rock.s
lying off it.

Santa Tvresa Point, IJ mile South of San Gabriel Point, is n rocky bluff,
30 ft. high, and South of it is the snail ojjcn bay of tho same mme. There
is good anchorage in 8 or U fathoms, sheltered from N.W. winds, 3 or 4
cables S. by W. J W. from the point ; spring tides rise 10 ft., neap:* 6 ft. On
the low neck of land between Santa Teresa and San Francisciuito Hays is the
bed of an extensive fresh-water pond, which is dry during eight months of the
year. At 32 miles nearly due West of Santa Teresa I'oint is a prominent
sharp peak, 6,258 ft. high.

Between Santa Teresa Point and Cape San Miyuel, 13J miles to S.E. by
S. J S., the coast is generally low. The cape is a bold rocky bluff, 160 ft.
high, with some rocks lying close off it, and about 5 miles inland are some
conspicuous mountains, 2,000 to 3,500 ft. high. Just South of the cape there
is anchorage in 7 or 8 fathoms, half a mile off shore, sheltered from N.W.
winds. A mile South of the cape is the northern end of a shoal extending
2 miles along the shore to the southward, with 2| fathoms on its outer edge at
a quarter to half a mile off shore.

From Cape San Miguel to San Carlos Point the distance is 12 miles S. by
E. J E. ; for the first 2i miles the coast is an almost continuous bluff, about 50 ft.
high, after which it is generally low. At 7 miles southward of Cape San Miguel
is San Juan Bautista Point, which is low, with shoal water extending a quarter
of a mile off it. Between this point nnd San Carlos Point, which is also low,
is the open bay of San Juan Bautista, with very regular soundings ; the tide
rises about 5 ft. At 9^ miles W. ^ S. of San Carlos Point is Sharp Peak, about
6,000 ft. high.

At 12 miles S.E. by S. J S. from San Carlos Point is Trinidad Point, a

i,a

CAI'K VIIiUKNKS.

prominent liuadlai.d, .50 ft. hig]i, with Bomo rouks oil' it ; northward of it is
tho open bny uf San Carlos. Home detached rockH lie off this part of tho
coast nnd that to the southward. Extensive patches of red water were met
with hereabout. At 7 miles S.E. of Trinidad Point is tho shoal o])ouing to a
Iit|;iK)n, and at '22 miles farther on is a fresh-water creek whieli may bo
iico^niscd by the grass and trees on its banks ; its entrance is ot a low shinglo
]i(iiiit, ofl' which a shoal extends over n quarter uf n mile.

.Santa ./na Ilai/, comiiri.scd between this low shingle point and Santa Ana
I'liint, ;54 miles to Iv.S.lv, has very deep water neorly up to tho shore, but
tlicru is anchorage, sheltered from the S.M. Olf liaja I'uint, '\ miles M. by .S,
ui Sunta Ana Tuint, n shoal extends a short distance, and just .South of it is
tliu mouth of a canon leading to the Keforma silver mine. About three-
([uartors of a mile south-eastward of the point is u landing-place, marked by a
stiiir with u white flag.

Cape Virgenes, l^ miles beyond Haja Point, is a rocky elifT about 200 ft.
liis'li, surmoimted by u hill 000 ft. high. Tho water is very deep hereabout.
I'roiu 12 to It miles inland arc thre' remarkable mountains, known as Im»
ins VtKjcnfs, the highest and souimrnmost being (>,.") I" ft. big' . They arc
the N.E. end of a belt ' f volcanic peaks, iu the vicinity of which sulphur is
•iiid to be abundant.

Trom Cape Virgenes tho land trends .1 miles to the south-eastward to a point
marked by a monument, and then alters its direction to nearly South for
\'<\ aiili'H, to the northern limit of Santa Maria Cove. The siiore con.sists of
brokin bhilFs, 30 to 200 ft. high, and about ^.J miles inland of the monument
is Santa Maria Mountain, •1,124 ft. high, its ridge running parallel to the coast
fur (icveral miles.

Sduta Maria Cove is about threc-cjuartcrs of a mile wide, with a shinglo and
saail beach at its head. Several rocks lie off the North point. There is au-
clinragc in 5 or fathoms, about a ([uarter of a mile from the beach, but open
iiS.K. winds. The southernmost of Las Tres Virgenes lies l.'i.J miles W. .J S.
fmm tho anchorage, and is a good mark when making for it. Spring tides
iiM about feet.

llilwcen Santa Maria Covo nnd San Agueda Point, CJ miles to S.K. .J S.,
are six valleys or canons, widely known for their yield of rich cojjper ore,
ivliich conns from tho interior, and is shipped to Kurope. Tho first is tho
('■mn tic Sunta Rosalia, 3 miles southward of Santa Maria Cove, and then
al)out a mile apart respectively lie tho Canons tie Suledad, de Purijatorio,
ik I'roviilcncia, atjd de San Aijucda. A little to the northward of tho Canon
il Santa Rosalia is a ranch close to the beach, and at those of Providcn.'a and
l'w|,'atorio there arc landing piers. In anchoring off these eaiions the lead
must be kept constantly going, as the water is deep to within a quarter of a
ciileofthe shore, and then shoals suddenly.

}\orth Pacijic, %

■k-!*A ■■•

,;■ >

^ '

^.^^m

V*5

154

THE GULF OF (CALIFORNIA.

Sanln Agucda Point, the eastern entrance point of ii lapjoon and of the canon
of tho same name, is low and sandy, with a shoal extending half a mile off it,
and across the lagoon entrance. At 12 J miles S.F. I S. from Santa Maria
Cove is a prominent point, surmounted by a red mound GO ft. high, tho coast
between being a succession of bluffs of moderate height, with intervening snnd
benches. From this point the coiist is low and sandy for .'I miles, to tho
<'iitrnncc of San Lucas Core, a safe anchorage in all weatliers for small crafi
drawing less than ft. water. The cove is about 2 miles in extent North and
South, from a half to three-quarters of u mile wide, and from Ii to ft. deep.
A small sand island lies nearly in the centre of the narrow and shoal entnmce,
the channel being on the North side, with G to 'J ft. at low water.

Tortuga Island, 23 miles E. by N. \ N. of Sunta Maria Cove, like most of
the other islands in the gulf, appears rocky, barren, mounUiiuous, and uniii-
habited. It is about 2 miles long K.S.Fi. and W.N.W., by a mile wide in the
centre, its highest peak being 1,0 IG ft. high.

SAN MAECOS ISLAND, the North end of which Is U.J miles S.W. J S.
from Tortuga Island, lies eastward of San Lucas Cove, being separated from
the shore by Craiy Channcf, a little over a mile wide in its narrowest part,
and through which a deptii of 1 fathoms may be carried. The island is bariTii
and hilly, about 5i miles long N.N.W, and S.S.F., varying in width from
1] to L'i miles; the highest peak, nearly in the centre, is 8'Jl ft. high, 'i'iieic
are extensive exj>osed (kposits of gypsum on the island ; puniiee-stone is also
fotind, and one of the hills is said to be entirely composed of tale. Frcsli
water may be obtained near the North end, and goats arc very abuuduiit,
There are several beds of pearl oysters aroiuid it.

The shores of San Marcos are chiefly composed of rocky blulfs, which aie
highest, 20 to 300 ft., on the eastern side. Off tho North point, which is sur-
mounted by a high hill, arc three whito islets 20 to 10 ft. high, and several
detached rocks extending nearly half a mile northward. The South point is
a low sand-spit nearly half a mile long, from which a rocky shoal cxtomls
1] mile to the southward, forming the narrowest part of Craig Chaiiial.
There is good anchorage i 5 to 7 fathoms, eastward of the sand-spit, avoiiliiii;
the shoal water extending nearly half a niile off the shore ; the tide rises about
4 ft. Lobos liock, 20 ft. high, with numerous sunken rocks around it, lies
half a mile S.K. A E. from the southern j)oint of San Marcos.

]''rom San Lucas Cove the coast trends 1 1^ miles W. by N. ] N. to f'iiivalo
Point ; it is generally low and sandy, with occasional bluffs, gradually .sio|)iiij,'
to tho mountains. Chiiato Point is low, with many rocks off it, ami at !■'
mile to the southward of it is Santa Inez Point or Cajx; Ihirravas, also low
and rocky ; the intervening coast is bluffy, with a few outlying rocks. TIrtc
is anchorage in I to 5 fathoms, under the lee of the latter point, half i :uile
offshore, sheltered from N.W. winds.

Santa Inez I^ilands arc three low islands lying south-eastward of the point;

from li to 5 1
are siurouHdec

'''• M S. flojn {

H>ven-ejgl,ths c
lew and rocky
^ '^•'v. lies thrc
Santa Inez :

' '■'I'lnido Point,

giiierally J,„v a

''•■"Ten table-hilj

tlie bottom of tl

^^<n(a Miujdulcn,

f'lr forming a col,

liic coast to the n

Miiface is thickly

i's'abli,slicd.

'Jhe old mission

plain, at the moi.fl

<" Ijc seen, but il

■Maico.s I,sl;„i,l, and

MULEGE, or i

I'ri'tn Point, a lov

'i"'"'^'''^ of a mile t

l''i'nt, so named fi

■ ''""''"i; <m a round

l^ivcr, and about ] j

^'^''"•J'igliJ theya
^Cimiinjr i„ ..f^.pj. ^^^

^^■' i •'^•, as there is

'""'''"'• m .5 to 7 fat

iluleye, formerly

'■'" I't 2 miles up tlie

*^'''"ated at 500 to I

filing, and raising a.

?™J beef, mtiy be p',

"'P'""' •'">d gyi)sum .

■;""«• and shallow, w

^^nge, at about 7\ nn

■J iiL' following obscrv
- 'J. V»'oolridge : "

-"« "bout a dozen of
'■' ; best marks i
'■•''« rather to the ri

I u

MULEGE, OR MOLE J E.

155

from 4i to 5 fatlimns may be carried tlirougli the cliaiiiicl between. They
arc surrounded by «lio:\ls and sunken rocks. Tliu nortl»ernniost lies '2 miles
K. I S. from the point ; the southernmost, also tlie largest and hij^hest, is
s.even-eighths of a mile lonj; and .'JO ft. hi};h, with shoal water extending off its
low and rocky southern point. A ;J-fathonis shoal, 1^ mile long N.N.W. and
S.S.E., lies three-quarters of a mile West of the southern island.

Santa Inez Bay is the large open bay lying between Santa inez Point and
Culortii/ii Point, a reddish bluff, about '.) miles to the southward. The shore is
j^ciierally low and sandy, and near Sania Inez I'oint are some conspicuous
barren table-hills, the highest being JUirracas Table, about JJOO ft. high. At
the bottom of the bay is a monument marking the southern boundary of the
Suntit M(i(/tl(i/eiiti riuiiis, a tract of laud ac(|uired by a San Francisco company
for forming a colony. Tlie plains are several miles in width, e.\tending along
the coast to the northward, but it is said no fresh water can be found, and the
smface is thickly covered with rocks, con.sc(picntly the colony has never been
I'smblislicd.

The old mission of (iuai/aliipe was situated on the northern edge of the
phiin, at the mouth of San Josu Canon. The remains of an a<|ue(luet are still
to be seen, but the mission buildings are entirely destroyed. Opposite San
Miiri'os Island, and IH miles inlaml, was the mission of .S'(//j /i/uiinO.

MULEGE, or MOLEJE.— At a mile south-eastward of Colorado Point is
I'riild I'oint, a low dark bluiF, between which and Soiubrerito I'oint, three-
(|uaiters of a mile to the southward, is the anchorage of Mulejc. StiDibrcrilo
I'liint, so named from its shape, is a pyramidal-shapeil roek. III) ft. high,
stiiuding on a round pf'.le.stal on the Norlii side of tiie moutli of Santa Uo.>-alia
Kiver, and about li mile westward of it is Colorado Peak, a reddish peak
lj3fi ft. high ; they are both excellent landmarks for making the anchorage. In
landing in steer for the peak, being careful not to bring it to bear South of
\V. ,J S., as there is much foul ground near the coast ouutli of that line, and
.iiu'lior in 6 to 7 fathoms, half a mile from the beach.

iluleyc, formerly the mission of Stiuta Itosalia tic Molejc, is a small village
,.!)! lit - miles up the stream named Santa liosalia ; the inhabitants, variously
Klimated at oOO to 1,000 in number, arc engaged ehietly in mining, pearl-
ii^liing, and raising and exporting fruits. Wood, water, vegetables, wine, and
.•10(1 beef, may be procured here ; and game is abundant in the mountain.s.
"ilpliur and gypsimi are found in the vicinity. 'J'he entrance to the river is
".i:uw and shallow, with several rocks in it; it is high water here, on full and
.i.iii;;e, at about 7'', and the tide rises about .T.J feet.

Thu following observations on Mulege and its ap[)roaehrs arc by Lieut. -Com.
? 0. VNoolridge : — " I'oint Conccpcion is diflieult to make out, when vou
uve about a dozen of the same kind within a few miles of each other. liow-
f r best marks i can give are some table land, wliich is very remarkable,
;■ i iji ratiicr to tlie right of ^l lejo village. Keei) this about two points on

■%\

.*•

^ ■•

■m::

''V 4

1 '" , » : 1-
, 1^

■*
-M

156

TIIK (lULK or CAT-II'OUXIA.

\ ''

your starboaid bow, nnd yoii may stand in until yoii dlspovcr Romc sandy
islets, which arc oil" a point ciUi'd I'uiita Viu-s. When you am Kast and West
with thcni, you will be distant from them about .'i miles. After passing these
isIclH, then steer So\ith and S.S.W. until you make out the Tyramid Uock,
Bpoken of by ('a])t. Hamilton. This rock is called Sombrerito, or Little Hat.
I think it bad to call it I'yraniid Kock, as tliere is a point wliich, in st.indinf^
in, may be ea.'sily mistaken for it, resemblin;; also a pyramid ; but the rock is a
jiyramid fixed on a rouiul j)edestal like a fort. Another j;ood way of makinf;
out this place is, when the wind is fair, to keep 'I'ortuf^a Island, about '20 miles
distant, bearing abotit N.W., and steer in S.M. till you make out the samly
islets, and jn-occed as above. 'I'hcre is a passage between the islets and the
main land for snjall vessels, but, thou|^h very invitinp;, should not be attempted.
I tried it, but {^ettin^ into 2^ fathumn, I put about as cpiick as ])ossible. My
anchoraj^e marks in Molcji'- ]!:iy were as follow, in Ti fathoms: — I'oint Coii-
cepcion, N. HI !'"/.; Tortuf^a Isle, \. l' W. ; Lobos I.sle, .\. '2 Iv; Sombrerito,
S. (J7'' W. ; JMinipalito Koek, S. L"2" W. ; and I'uiita San Vnes, N. Kr \V.

"This is very close in, but I wished to facilitate the waterin;^ ; about half a
njile further to the northward, in H fathoms, is a very f^ood berth. In ^^oiii;;
into the bay .'ifter makiuf; o\it the Sombrerito, if you wish to i;o (;lose in, take
care not to brinj; the Sombrerit(i at all on your starboard bow ; that is, do not
open tlie mouth of the river, as by soundin;^ I discovered a roek with only 1
fathom on it, on a sandbank with :i fathoms all round it, about tliree-(|uarti'rN
of a mile from the shore. It lies witli the entrance of the rivt'i' open, (lirectlv
between Sombrerito and Kquipalito Uoeks, distant from one-half to 1 mile nil"
shore.

" The report of the facility of waterinp; is very delusive nnd uncertain. In
the (irst place I cannot think it possible to water out of the river, as it is salt
for at least 2 or 2.^ miles, and a f^reat portion of the time boats could not pos-
sibly f;et u]) so far. 1 was there, fort>inateIy, when the moon was nearly full.
and llic water was (inly low between eleven at nij^lit and four in tlie morning,',
so thai I was enabled to water about eij^liti'en hmu's out of twenty-four, and
tliough I hud but one small boat (2.'i-ft. cutter), I maii.if^ed to }^et 12 tons ia
two days. Siie had to (;o l.J mih; up the river, to I'adras. The water is deli-
cious to drink at the stream, but it is so very low, ,and our water, after hriii;'
n day or two on board, becanu^ so black, nnd snu'lt so strongly of decayed veijc-
table matter, that, thuugli it improveil by keepinj^, it served ehielly for cookin;;
and washinj;."

Jufuipa/to Jlork lies on the South side of the entrance of Santa Kosnii.i
Uiver. An extensive shoal exteiuls from the mouth of the river for IJ mile to
the south-eastward of this rock, its outer eil|.;e bein;; threc-cpiarters of a mile
from the land. At the back of it are several small laj^oons. (iallito I'oint,
'_'! miles beyond Mcjuipalto Itock, is the N.W. entrance point of ('oncejiciiMi
IJay ; it is a conical rock, connected with the uiainluud by a strip of sanil, ami

surroun
Iyin« nL
for it wi

cojrc

Halliion

in width

part, nnd

lias ;i vcTj

of it is a I

water run

i** low nnd

I)eaeh. T

end of the

has Ncvcra!

e\t(nil o/fi

*!>'"« i'rdt

(lallilo I'oi,

Shoals ex(,.,

about 2 mill

wide. At ;

( 'oijnlr Jtay^

and Smith, ;i
'" 'I. "lakin-;
J'or ,! nn'Ie
tlien become*
jii«t South of
Jtmiadn I'oii,
f'l'des r:,-,st o(
ni;n'nl;inil bv
(•lioal w.iter e>
Mand is ]■',■;,,,
till* coast is III-
'J'iniija I'oint^
J'lis point is n
the best fresl, ,

Concepciou

%. is about .'i
trends to the S.
'•»' entrance to

'mail stream lu',

'•'"■"in Cone,.,

Colorado r„i„t,

COXCKPCIOX HAY.

157

Rurroundcil by slioril wator. A rock, witli ;i fatlicnns over it, is ropoitt-d as
Iviiij; about n luiK- norlh-i'ustward of (jallilo I'oint; diiij;('nt sarch was iniidc
for it without succoss.

CONCEPCION BAY, tbe cutranpc to wliicb is .">] uiilos wide, brtwocn
(inllitonnd Aj^uja I'oints, rxlcnds over 'J'i luili's in a S.S.lv dircctioii, vai; iii;^
ill width from - to 5 inili-s. 'riu-rc arc si'voral .small islands in its wi'slnii
part, and a numbi-r of atichora^i's sludtcrcd from all winds. 'I'lic wcsti'rn shore
has a very irri'^;ular outlino, with many blull' juiints, and at tin' soullicrn ( nd
of it is a lagoon, at thf entrance of which arc some small islands, and slid.d
water runs olf about half a mile. The southern shore, known as l,a /'ii.sii/mi,
is low and sandy, like the eastern shore, the water slioalin;^ (gradually to the
beach. The road betwi'cn .MuIcl;c and i.ori'to passes elosi' .alonj; tin; South
end of the bay, aiul about a mih- from the western side. 'J'hc eastern shore
has several low projeelin;^ points, and, except lu'ar las Omiilas I'oint, shoals
extend oil' its entire Icni^lli from a (piarler to three ijuartrrs of a mile.

Han /V(/;o /'«/'«/, a bold headland, about loo ft. Iii-ii, lies ft miles S.I',, of
(lallito I'oint, the coast beinj; low, with some blull's about midway betucc n.
Slio;ds extend oil' a considerable distance on either side of the point, and lor
about '1 miles .\(U'th and South of it the iiavi;;abie eliumel is not over 1| mile
wide. At •'! miles sn\ithward of San I'edro Point is the nortlieiri point of
Cdi/otr Uny, with shoal water oil' it; theb.'iy is about ."•.^ miles in extent iNorth
and South, and 1 .J mile Mast and West, but has a number of islets and rocks
iu it, makin;; its navi};ation sonu'wliat dillieult.

Fur ;i miles S.E, of Coyote iiay the coast is fornu-d by a scries of blull's ; it
tlicn bcconu's low, and forms a small bay, with a r.inch near its northern part,
just South of which is a creek where inferior fresh water nuiy be obtained.
Jlnnndn I'oitil, a low blulf point, is the eastern point of tliis bay, and at I
rallies Mast of it is Kirasnn Islanil, half a mile lonj^, and connected with the
Hiiiiiiland by a nari'ow sand-spit. i'lie coast eoutiuues low and s.mdy, witli
shoal water extending nearly half a mile off, and at li mile S.M. of Uieason
Island is /'/ly'//* 7^Jl'/l^ a sharp bluff point, -li) ft. high. l''rom Frigoli I'oint
tic coast is nearly straight, with {\t.'v\^ water close to, fni' aliout ;! miles to I. a
TiiKiJii /'«ih/, wdiieh lies a mile northward il' the lagoon, picviously nuMitioned.
This point is noted for a small well, just above high-water mark, which supplies
the best fresh water found in ("oncepeion Hay.

Concepciou Point, the northern extreme of the peninsula forming C'oneepoion
Ray, is about .'iO ft. high, with numerous rocks olf it. I'rom hence the coast
trends to the S.W. to Aguja and Sun Domitujo I'olnl;^, on the eastern side of
ttu' entrance to the bay. At '.ij miles S.iC. by S. I S. from the latter jioiut is
Siin Ljniicio Point, half a mile south-eastward of which is a ranch, »vith a
fiuall stream near it.

I'loiu ('oncepei(m Point the coast trends 1 I.V miles S.l',. by Tv \ V.. to
Colorado I'uiut, with outlying rocks a short distance olf the intervening points.

■ ■ ifl?::\' : .#

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I ' ♦» ' v,'

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if -I
if-.'

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■•i'- '■'

.. ■ , ;i---i.l

,i ■ ' »

■ 4-" i;-'"H.-^1

t^-Jl-

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■: r. fwV i.«', *

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ij m

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( f

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'it-'

i^ii

158

THE GULP OF CALIFORNIA.

At 11 miles from the former point is n low point, with a rocky reef extending
a quarter of a mile off; a conspicuous white mountain, '2A'''i ft. higii, lies oi
miles westward of this point. Colorado Point is a hiyh red bluff, with many
rocks off it, and at 4. i^ miles E.S.IC. is Sanla Teresa Point, surmounted by a
small sharp hill, and with many rocks off it; a conspicuous peak, 955 ft. high,
lies a mile S.AV. i W. from it.

Between C'oncepcion and Santa Teresa Points the coast is high, rocky, and
precipitous, affording but little shelter from the prevailing winds ; patches of
red water arc frequently met with hereabout. San Lino Bay, Soull: of Colo-
rado Point, affords shelter from winds from West, round by South, to S.E., in
from 4 to 8 fathoms ; there is also said to be good anchorage near Santa Teresa
Point.

San Nicolas Bay is a large open bay, lying between Santa Teresa and
Santa Antonita Points, lO.J miles apart S.E. J S. and N.W. \ N. The western
shore is bluff, with outlying rocks, and at 4 miles from Santa Teresa Point is a
small cove, atfording i ' clter to launches. The southern shore of the bay is
low ; several arroyos descend into its S.W. part from a conspicuous table-land,
1,235 ft. higli, 'JJ miles inland. Santa Antonita Point is 15 ft. high, with
shoal water extending a (juartcr of a mile northward of it ; Pulpito Point lies
\\ mile S.E. of it.

Ildefonso Island, 0^ miles N. J W. from 1 ulpito Point, is a'.barren rock, a
little more than a mile long X.N.W. and S.S.E., half.? mile wide, and 387 ft.
high. A reef extends about a quarter of a mile off its northern end, but the
passage between it and the mainland is apparetitly free from dangers.

PULPITO POINT, so named from its resemblance to a pulpit, is a bold
headland, about 500 ft. high, with some detached rocks extending a cable oil
it ; when first seen from the southward it appears like an island. There is ex-
cellent anchoi'age in 5 to 10 fathoms, southward of the point, and about a
quarter of a mile from the beach, well sheltered from north-westerly winds ;
the tide rises about 4 ft. Along the western shore of the anchorage arc
numerous rocks, some over 300 yards off. In the northern bight is a sand
beach and a good landing place. A tiiplc-pc.iked mountain, 1,G40 ft. high,
and 3J^ miles S.W. J S. from Pulpito Point, forms a good landmark.

Between Pulpito Point and Mangles Point, 14^ miles to S.E. by S. J S.,
the coast consists of rocky bluffs, with outlying rocks. It forms several promi-
nent points, with intervening bays, where anchorage may be found.

San Basilio Bay. — At 2^ miles S. I W. from Pulpito Point is Gull Rod,
between which and <SV»;» Basilio Point, fi miles to S.E. by S. \ S., is the open
bay of San Basilio, with no bottom at 15 fathoms a mile off the shore, which con-
sists of low bluffs, with intervening beaches. San Basilio Point is a red rocky
cliff, 50 ft. high, surmounted by a hill, 450 ft. high ; a few rocks lie off it, and
to the southward is San Juanico Cove, behind one of the sand beaches in
which is a fine-looking valley, where, it is said, fresh water may be procured.

Mercen

surmoui

J'^ggcd,

cf the p

tfANi

moderate

the .south

liigli. 'J']

nearly J,a

iii.ikin;,' f'o

J"'gljest on

the point, i

'"w its vail,

fresh water

'"'* an excell(

San Jlru

siiniewhat d

p^'iallel to tl

Uh. TJie t

mile off it.

till' bluffy cot

Point, tlirfc-(

•■'i'oiit a quart(

tlH're is good

beach.

Coronados :

^^rm,«,vo. i'o/,,/. about „ n.;in f ., J59

surmounted by a reel co„o 5,9 ft , .i t T' " " "^"^ ^'"^ «^ ''-k sandstone
jagsod. rocky bluff. 60 ft. hi-^h tb ' """" '^'^^^ "°'' '^ rock ] o Tff

of the point. '"»''• ^'"•^'^-quartors of a „,ile to tJ,e nonh J . ?

MANGIES POINT 4; •, '-"<>• th-westward

-^-te,y bigh bb,«; ;vit; a ;SI ^-^^ ^* ^- .°^ ^^ercenaWos Point, i. «
'--":-■" -1 of a succession , '^ '-"^'"^ "'''•"^^'>- «-" it. i

'"^''■; 'ii'ero is .ood ancbor.-u.. i„ 3 ' :""^-'^^''' -''-•. l-H,.) to .'ioo f

7. • / ., ^'•"iiinatcs, and a sand bfnr.1, • ^' o^ the creek

«■ «»iic„, „„„,,<,„„,, . ■"" '.' ''■" ■ "■i'- lo the „„„,,;. ° '°;^;: "'"»''»

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Tlir: GULF OF CALIFORNIA.

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and S.W. ; when tlicy blow very strongly, the ship must get under wny to
escape being driven un shore. If she is of small dntught, she may make for
Puerto Kscondido, 12^ miles to the South. The tide rises 3 to 4 ft.

The mission of Real He Lnreto, founded in 1097, opposite Carmen Island,
was the capital of Lower California ; but it became so much decayed that the
authorities were transferred to the Ileal de San Antonio, but La I'az is row
the capital. The presidio, the mission, and the church, very substantially
built by the Jesuits, were intended to serve, in case of attack, as an asylum to
the inhabitants. They are surrounded by a thick wall, which turns the waters
of a torrent coming from the mountains, which several times has washed
away the houses and the vegetable earth. The church, which was for a long
time in a state of decay, contained many pictures, silver vessels, and jewels of
considerable value, and, though left quite open, was considered safe from
spoliation.

At the time of the XarrarjansclCs visit it was a straggling village contain-
ing about 150 inhabitants. The church, a large stone structure with a dome
at one en<l, is in jtretty good repair. Fresh beef, vegetables, fruit, and wood,
may be obtained at the town, but water is said to be generally scarce, and that
from the wells brackish and unwholesome. The country hero is very fertile,
producing all sorts of tropical and temperate fruits and vegctable.-t. A road
connects Loreto with Mulegc.

Lorcto was formerly the centre of a considerable pearl trade, and is the port
of Comandu, an ancient mission, about 122 miles distant in the interior, with
which it is connected by a road passing over the Sierra de la Giganta. There
is a rich copper mine, known as VA Sance, and not worked at jirescnt, at tlis
foot of the mountains. The valley in which Ccuiandu is situated is very
fertile, and most of it in a high state of cultivation. The pop\ilation is variously
estimated at from 500 to 1,000.

From Loreto to Xopolo Point, a bold rocky point, 75 ft. high, the coast is a
low sand beach. At Ij mile So\ith of Loreto is Primera Agua Point, ofF-.vhicli
ft shoal extends about half a mile, with 1 to a fathoms on it. A small shallow
cove, westward of Nopolo Point, is sometimes used by small vessels. About u
miles S.E. by S. of Nopolo Point is Chucnque 15ay, the coast between consist-
ing of pebble beaches, and bluffs 15 to 75 ft. high, with a dojjth of 10 to 15
fathoms within a cable's length of it. Chucnque liaij is small, but aflords
protection from all but northerly winds ; to enter, jjoss northward of a small
island on its eastern side, the southern passage being quite shoal.

Punta Coyote, 1 J mile S.E. of Chucnque Buy, is a steep bluff headland, 75
feet high, the eastern extremity of a pear-shaped pcr.insula about 1^ mile long
and seven-eighths of a mile wide at its southern end, on which is a hill 350 ft.
high. On its western side it forms Puerto llscomlido, a perfectly landlocked
and secure harboui' for small vessels iu all weathers. The entrance is ouly

about 75 ft
7 fathoms i
iJctween
50 ft. high,
soundings a
"lile off. I,
f'oyote I'oir
with a ranch
from wells K
' '"int is a gn
"ith 2 to 3 fi
/^oj Cande
''•'tween Cam
''liould be usc(
Danzante ii
■'iS miles long,
eonsist of bold
t''e S.W. side i
pinnacle rock, :
the North end (
■J'iie channel bei
''v vessels boun(
CARMEN IJ
in its northern t
'•5(^0 ft. high, c
"" August 21st,
I'unia Jinja, ti
'andeleros Point
"ff"- At2in,i
ijting a sand and
•\rena, at the bac
'"''es farther nort
'•^ ^fartjuez Bay,
^'•■^ ''Pad. Norlhv
moderately deep ,
'%. is about 4 ca
mtrancc, between
•^' I4 mile nort
''''•""J. .It a quart
'Ula Islet, a low
»it!i some rocks of
''»'"'. -'J miles to ,
^'orlh Pacific.

CAUMKN ISLAND.

Ifil

about 75 ft. wide, with 9 ft. on the bar at high water, but deepening to 4 and
7 fathoms witliin. It is about a mile h)nj^, and half a mile wide.

Hctween Coyote Point and Canileleros Point, a prominent steep bluff, about
50 ft. hiph, 6 miles to the S.E., the coast forms an open bay, in which the
soundings are irregular, only 2J fathoms being found in some places at half a
mile off. Inland are some high mountains. About '2 J miles southward of
Coyote Point is a strip of sand beach, behind which is a fcrtilo gri en slope
with a ranch at its foot. Plenty of good fresh water may be j)rocured here
fiom wells 10 to 15 ft. deep. At 3J miles N.W. by W. J W. from Candeleros
IViint is a group of rocks, 15 to 40 ft. high, the outermost a mile off shore,
with 2 to 3 fathoms water, foul ground, between.

Los Candeleros arc three pinnacle-shaped rocks, 40 to 120 ft. high, lying
between C'lmdclcros Point and Danzante Island, the passage between which
should be used with great caution, as other rocks may exist.

Danzante is a barren island, lying 2i miles N.W. | N. from the point ; it is
^ miles long, nearly a mile wide, and rises to a height of 150 ft. The shores
consist of bold rocky bluffs, 25 to 75 ft. high, with deep water close-to, but on
the S.W. side is a strip of sand beach, off which anchorage may be found. A
pinnacle rock, 25 ft. high, lies off the southern end, and about half a mile of
the North end of the island is detached by a shallow channel, full of rocks.
The channel between Danzante and Carmen is IJ to 2^ miles wide, much used
hy vessels bound to Loreto ; the tidal currents arc very strong in it.

CARMEN ISLAND is 17 miles long N.N.K.and S.S.W., and :>^ miles wide
in its northern part ; it is of volcanic origin, and has a range of peaks, 5U0 to
1,500 ft. high, extending throughoat its entire length. It is inhabited, and
iin August 21st, 1H73, some violent earth([uake shocks were felt on it.

I'unta Jhija, the low South point of Carmen Island, lies 5 miles X. J K. from
Ciindeleros Point, with shoal -water extending more than a quarter of a mile
otfit. At 2J miles N.W. of Punta lUija is I'unta Arena, the coast between
hcing a sand and gravel beach. There are some huts on the heaeh !iear I'unta
Anna, at the back of which are some sharp peaks, (iOO to DvIO ft. high. At 3
miles farther northward, the coast consisting of rocky bluffs and deep ravines,
is Marquez Bay, which is small, with some huts close to a small sand beach at
its head. Northward of this bay the coast is generally steep and rocky, with
moderately deep water close to. Puerto Pnllaudra, 8J miles from Marquez
l!ay, is about 4 cables in diameter, with 5 to 5 J fathoms in most parts; the
entrance, between high headlands, is scarcely 3 cables in width.

At 12 mile northward of Puerto Ballandra is the bluff N.W. point of the
i>hnil, at a quarter of a mile off which, with 1 to 3 fathoms between, is
''hiilh Islet, a low sand island, about one-third of a mile long, and 20 ft. high,
with some rocks off its N.W. end. Between the N.W. juiint and Tintorera
I'oint, '2J miles to N.E. i N., is Oto Bay, in which ves,sels may anchor shel-
iYor//i Pacific. Y

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162

THE GULF OF CALIFORNIA.

.""- ,,

■IV 1

tcred from southerly winds. There arc a few deserted huts at the boUom of
the bay.

Tinlorera Point is a steep bluff, about 80 ft. high, with some rocks off it,
and at 1^ mile to the eastward is Puerto de la Lancha, a small open bay, with
2^ to 7 fathoms water, with anchorage sheltered from southerly winds. A
short distance farther eastward is a small landlocked cove, 2\ cables long and
a cable wide at the entrance, with a depth of 3 to 5 fathoms ; there are some
deserted huts near its head. Lobos Point, the N.E. extreme of the island, is
a rocky headland, 125 ft. high, surrounded by detached rocks; the const hero
turns abruptly to the southward, and for over 6 miles, to Perico Point, consists
of rocky bluffs, with occasional detached rocks. Perico Point is a sharp rocky
cliff, surmounted by a reddish peak, 460 ft. high ; near it is a detached rock,
80 ft. high, 150 yards southward of which is a sunken rock.

Salinas Bay, westward of Perico Point, has good anchorage in 5 to 6
fathoms, sheltered from all but S.E. winds. The tide rises about 3J ft. It
was surveyed by Capt. KcUett, U.M.S. Herald, in 1849 ; he places its head in
lat. 25^ 50' 34" N., long. 111° 6' 45" W., very closely approximating to the
late survey by the U.S. officers.

The bay is about 3^ miles wide, and 2 miles deep. Near its head, but par-
titioned off from the •'oa by a strip of shingly beach, about a quarter of a mile
wide, over which the water never flows, is a lake, about 1 J mile long and a
mile wide, the bottom of which is covered with pure white crystals of salt —
chloride of sodium — without any admixture or adulteration in the shape of
sand, algfc, or other salts. Commander Dewey says the water rises and falls
with the tide, but Dr. Bell states that usually no water covers this area, and
the salt has only to be raked up, packed in large sacks, and shipped to San
Francisco. Here it is ground and sold, without any purification, as the finest
table salt. Holes have been dug 10 ft. deep through pure crystals of salt.
Fine volcanic mountains form a semi-circle around this lake, and when it rains
the drainage from them flows into this basin, and covers it to the depth of a
few inches. It is supposed that the salt is thus washed down from some large
natural deposits. There are, also, some fine beds of the long-shelled oyster
hereabouts, which are shipped to San Francisco. The lake is connected by
railway with a landing-place in the bay, and on the narrow shingle beach is a
small village. Fish and turtle are abundant here.

White Point, the S.W. point of Salinas Bay, is a steep bluff point, with
some rocks extending about a cable off it. At 2 miles South of White Point,
the coast between being steep and rocky, is Gavelones Point, about 1 mile
N.W. by W. of which is a sharp peak, 1,491 ft. high. To the South of this
the coast mainly consists of steep bluffs, and about 2^ miles from the point is
a small stream, where it is said fresh water may be procured. Colorado Point,
2 J miles farther South, is a reddish bluff point ; a sunken rock, reported to lie
off it. was searched for without success. Here the coast recedes, forming the

open bay of
sand beach
extending s(

^fonserra

•"•"en; it ig

734 ft. in hei

off which roc

"quarter of a

«nd on the Nc

with shelving

'sJets, the easti

A rocky reef e:

the two is a na

is a dangerous i

Santa Catali

•^orth and Soutl

sliores are said t

sandy beach at ii

The Coast. ]

SK.^S.,thecoai
'and rising to 2,Qi
h^ numerous smal
ahout2milesoffa
" till 225 ft. highl
^•'^"8 ft. high, an
""'t' northward of

tliirdofare-Jceasl

oucthird of the c

■ to •! ft. above wa

fVom San Cosme

'"•'^'chofsandbea.
""cht-s and an arro
"■'''' 'WO rocks N,
''M a similar poi
'•n Pasquel Point ..
?0"fl anchorage in oi_
»"^1' near the bead
^l-luir point. At ]
*J"th«ardforhalfa
'^"n -^larcial Poin,
'"' -yarcial Hock, 1

"•''' numerous small

wamileN.N.W. of

'Ij;:i

MONSEURATE AND 8TA. CATALINA ISLANDS.

16?

open bay of San Francitco, where the bluffs become lower, terminating in n
Hand beach which extends to Puuta Baja, before desoribed, with shoal water
extending some distance off.

Monserrate Island, lU miles S.E. hj E. i E. from Punta Baja, is perfectly
barren ; it is 4 miles long North and South, and 1 to 2 miles wide, rising to
734 ft. in height. The southern and eastern shores consist of bold rocky bluffs,
off which rocky ledges project under water in some places from one-eighth to
a quarter of a mile off shore. Some rocks lie off the North and N.E. points,
and on the North .side is a small bight. The West side is a low rocky shore,
with shelving points. At 1 J mile to the northward are Las Galeras, two rocky
islets, the easternmost and largest being 70 ft. high, and the other 40 ft. high.
A rocky reef extends nearly half a mile S.E. of the eastern rock, and between
the two is a narrow passage full of rocky ledges. At 1^ mile North of them
is a dangerous rock, only about a foot abore high water.

Santa Catalina Island, 11^ miles eastward af Monserrate, is 7^ miles long
North and South, and about 2 miles wide, rising to a height of 1,634 ft. lt.»
shores are said to be abrupt, and there is reported to be a lunding-pluce on u
sandy beach at its southern end.

The Coast. — From Candeleros Point to San Cosme Point, 10| miles to
S.E. i S., the coast is a succession of bluffs and sand beaches, the mountains in-
land rising to 2,000 ft. in height. White Bock, 127 ft. high, and surrounded
by numerous smaller ones, lies 4 miles S.E. ^ E. from Candeleros Point, and
about 2 miles off shore. San Cosme Point is a rocky cliff, rising abruptly to
a hill 225 ft. high, 4 miles south-westward of which is a sharp twin-peak,
3,S08 ft. high, an excellent landmark. San Cosme Rock, 75 ft. high, about a
mile northward of the point, is the westernmost and highest of a group ; one-
thiril of a mile eastward of this is San Damien Rock, 46 ft. high ; and about
one-third of the distance between the latter and the point are some rocks
2 to 4 ft. above water, with some awash.

Yrom. San Cosme Poiirt the coast trends about 2 miles to the S.E., when a
stretch of sand beach, about 2 miles in extent, commences, on which are some
ranches and an arroyo. At the East end of the beach is a rocky bluff point
with two rocks N.W. of it, and at a mile farther eastward is San Pasquel
P'linl, a similar point, with a large white rock a cable north-eastward of it.
Sm Pasquel Point is the western limit of ^(^ua Verde Bay, a small bay having
good anchorage in ordinary weather, and where water may be obtained from a
ranch near the beach. The best landing is in the eastern part of the bay, near
ablutfpoint. At 1^ mile farther eastward the coast turns abruptly to the
southward for half a mile to San Marcial Point.

■VrtH Marcial Point is a rocky cliff, surmounted by a peak 1,131 feet high.
■^lu Marcial Rock, \\ mile N. J E. from the point, is small, and 25 ft. high,
»;th numerous smaller rocks around it, and a small rock awash about a quarter
did mile N.N.W. of it. There is a depth of 4 to 8 fathoms between the rock

; i r.'T • - ' .'. ...

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If-

■'iiv'J

164

TnK GULF OF CAMFOUMA.

Iff '!

and tlie Iiinrl. At a (iu«rt»T of a mile soutli-riwtword of Snn ^f:l^cinl Point in ii
(lungerntm reef awiisli, on which tho Hua always breaks, about onc-tliinl of ii
mile long K.S.K. and W.N.VV., with tf and 10 fathoms between it and the
jKiint.

Detwpon Ran Mnrcial and San Telmo Points, n distance of It mill's, tho
canst is nearly Htraifrht, with blulFi from 75 to <'i50 ft. hi(;h, and a few short
Htretchcs of sand beach. A depth of 10 to .'JO fathoms is foiinil within half a
mile of it. lietwecii .Sun Mareial Point and a blulf 1 J mile South of it, in thf
small bay of 6'(in Martf, where veiHels may tlml an('horat;e in j^ood weather in
from 10 to VI fathoniR, within one-third of a mile of the small sand beach at
the bottom of it. The land here is extremely mountainous. San Telmo Point
is sharj) and rupjjed, liO ft. hij^h, with numerous rocks close off it ; on either
side the bliifl's are of a reddi.sh colour. Nearly OJ miles to W. ^ S. is a con-
spieuou.s table-mountain, '2,S18 ft. high.

Hetween San Telmo I'oint and Nopolo Point, P)J miles to .S.K. J S., the
coast recedes considerably, and is a succession of rocky hiulls, sand beaches,
and deep ravmes, with several islets and rocks off it, and backed by a moun-
tain range about 'J,. ')()() ft. high. Sun ('urlo.i Hay, southward of San Telmo
Point, ..ffords good anchorage in 5 to 7 fathoms; there is a lagoon at its head.
Jilnck l\ock, S'} ft. high, at the South side of this open bay, lies about n milr
from the shore, the passage between being apparently safe for small vessel.s.
At 'J| miles southward of Hlack Rock are Moreno Unrks, with shoal water
between them and the land half a mile distant ; the highest is 40 ft. high, ami
ha.s a rocky reef extending a (juarter of a mile S.K. of it. About 2 miles
southward of these rocks is a lagoon. The coast here is a pebble beach, with
occasional red and yellow bluffs, 10 to 2,5 ft. high. A mountain, 2,534 ft. high,
4i miles inland, is a good landmark hereabout.

JIulxina Island is a barren rock, about half a mile long, and 90 ft. higli,
lying f>i miles S.K<. J S. from Moreno Hocks, and over a mile off shore, witli
10 to 17 falhoins between. It is covered with white guano, and West of it is
a small indentation in the coast, known as Tamhalirkc Roads. At 2j miles
•South of the island is a conspicuous red rocky bluflT, the N.W. limit of Do-
lores Baij, a slight indentation in the coast line. On the South side of the Iwv
is Dolores Point, near which is a ranch. A few miles iidand is the old missidii
I'iryeti dti Dolores. Los Jltirros is a conspicuous, broken, rocky cliff, 300 tii
500 ft. high, similar to Dolores Point, from which it is 3 miles distant. At 2
miles farther south-eastward is N'o])olo Point, for about 3^ miles north-westward
of whid; is a succession of rocky bluffs, 400 to 500 ft. high.

Aopolo Point is a rocky cliff, backed by a rugged peak 1,578 ft. high. From
hence to San Evaristo Point, f)| miles to S.E. | S., the land is high and pre-
cipitous, with deep water close to the shore. It is .said fresh water may be ol)-
aincd from an estero about Ii mile southward of Nopolo Point. San lu'ari.ilo
Point is a rocky headland, 130 ft. high, projecting three-quarters of a mile

•en ward

of the

eh<

' J)o

.rage ;

''■»•■«* mil

"Win corn

eliorage i„

point 2 mi

Santa C

f^^'iiy '"lani

"■'•'e- Its ,

'■'"''"'"g-plac
bench.

•^'«« Dir^f

•■' mile loiijr '

extends H oal

I'aif a mile f.,

•'suddenly, 'j']

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SAN JOSE]

SAN JOSEF ISLAND.

IflS

•pawnnl ; there !« a rnnoh in the hijjlit on its northern nidc. rhwc untithward
of tlie point in a cove, nhodt thri'c-(|tiiirtcrH of h mile docp, where tliere if< i\ii-
elioni(;e; roeky bluffs, 20 to 60 ft. hij;h, exteml ii niiUi S.K. of it, nnd then,
for Ii miles, a sand bench follows with only one short blutr, when hi^jh clill's
Mfjuin commence and extend IJ mile to Mechndo Head. There is jjood an-
(•li()rn!;e ii\ .5 or l> fathoms, at half a mile from the beach, soutiiward of a sandy
point 2 miles southward of San l'!vari»to I'oint.

Santa Cruz Island, 10} miles eastward of San Telmo Point, ii a barren
rocky island, L.'iOO ft. hi;^li, 3j| miles !(in^ N.K. nnd S.VV., and about H mile
wide. Its eastern side cousistj* of bold blulFs, ,1(10 to 1,000 ft. hinh ; the only
landin<;-|>lace is at th«i iS.W. extreme, where there is a short stretch of gravel
beach.

Stin Difijo fxlnnd, 3J miles S.S.E. of Santa (^ruz, is 7'2'2 ft. hif^h, nnd nearly
n mile lonj; N.lv and S.W. A reef of rocks, over which the sea usually breaks,
extends H cables from the S.W. point, ending; in a small rock awash. Nearly
half a mile farther to the S.W. .TJ fathoms wa>i fotmd, when the (U'pth increased
.siulilenly. The jiassai^es between this island and .'^anta (Vuz and San .losef are
apparently clear of dantjer. but the latter has not been thorou;;hly examined.

SAN JOSEF ISLAND, l.i miles S. i H. of San Dief^o, is of volcanic origin.
It')} miles lonp N.W. nnd S.F,., and 2 to fl miles wide, risinjj to a height of
'.',077 ft. near its centre, and terminating at its northern end in a sharp point.
It is mostly covered with Tcnetation, and larf^e numbers of deer exist on it. It
is separated from the coast, previously described, by San Jo.irf Chaunrl, 2 J
miles wide at its narrowest part, near the northern entrance. This channel is
nmi'h used by sailing vessels beating up the gulf, whereby they avoid the
heavy sea outside, and onn take advantage of the strong tides which set thronj;!!
It, varying from 1 to 3 knots. In bad weather anchorage can be found in the
luimurous bights and coves on both sides of it. At night, or in thick weather,
it is recommended to keep well over toward the western shore, where there are
no outlying dangers.

I'rom the S.K. point of San Josef a sandy bench trends about !\^ miles
\V. by S. to the S.W. extremity, a long low sand-spit, on the northern si<le of
which is the opening to a lagoon. There is 20 fathoms within a cable's length
if the S.W. point, at 1} mile north-ciistward of which is tlie Jiio Sun Jose
intronce.

Ainortajada Bay is formed between the S.W. point nnd Salinas Point, 4J
:mk's to N.W. } W., and is 1} mile deep. In its southern j)Brt there is good
iiichorage in 7 or 8 fathoms, jjrotected from all winds, especially the dreaded
iiinioiiazos or S.K. gales. Vresli water mny be obtained here. Cnyo Islet, 10
ffithigh, and 8 cables N.W. by W. g W. front the S.W. point, protects the
anchorage from N.W. winds ; a reef extends about a quarter of a mile off its
northiTu end. Sulinaa Point is sandy, and near it are two lagoons producing
M^i: (^viantities of salt.

ill

•!'l

166

THE OULF OP CALIFORNIA

I 1 I; »,

II iiiir

/li

'! i:

For 3} milcK northwnrd of Salinas Point the coast is a low sand beach, at
the northern end of which is a ranch, for 'I mili-s North of which ntvvp hills
rise inimedintcly from the water. About half a mile North of 'he ranch i» the
mouth of a deep stream. The coast then again bccomos low to a point opposite
Nopolo Point, and here San Josef Channel is only 2^ miles wide. In the
bight southward of the eastern point there is good anchorage in 6 to 10 fathoms,
200 to 300 yards from the shore. Just North of this point is the shallow
entrance of a Ingoon, and thence to the North point of the inland, a distance of
4 miles, the coast trends nearly North, an unbroken line of steep, dark, rocky
bluffs. A reef extends about a mile off the North point, and about 1} mile
southward of it is a sharp peak, 1,382 ft. high.

The eastern side of 8an Josef was not closely examined ; it consists of high
rocky bluffs, with intervening sand beaches. At Red Point, nearly 9 miles
E.S.E. from the North point, the coast alters its direction to S. by E. i E. for
miles to the S.E. point, a hill rising abruptly to 400 ft. high, off which are
several rocks. For 5 miles northward of this point there is a scncs of in-
accessible bluffs, 50 to 500 ft. high.

Las Animal are a group of rocky islets, not over a quarter of a mile in ex-
tent, lying 10^ miles E. by S. ^ S. from the North point of San Josef; the
largest and highest is about 90 ft. high.

San Francisoo Iiland, on the flast side of the sotithem entrance to San
Josef Channel, lies nearly 4J miles N.E. } E. from Mechudo Point. It is
irregular in shape, with an area of about 1^ square mile, the shores chiefly
consisting of rocky bluffs, from 20 to 150 ft. high, with intervening sand
beaches. The S.E. end is a rocky peninsula, 300 ft. high, and off the northern and
southern points there are numerous rocks ; a depth of 2} fathoms is found at a
quarter ot a mile off the N.W. side. There is anchorage in 5 to 10 fathom? off
a sand beach just West of the S.E. head.

The channel between San Francisco and San Josef is about 1| mile wide,
with from 4 to 6 fathoms, but Coyote Rocks, near the centre, and Seal Bocks,
farther westward, make it very dangerous. Between Coyote Rocks, the highest
40 ft. high, and San Josef, the channel is less than half a mile wide, with 6 to 7
fathoms in it ; if obliged to pass between San Francisco and San Josef, it is
safest to keep close to the latter. Seal Rocks, 1| mile West of *hc North point
of San Francisco, consist of two flat rocks, about 5 fl. high, with several sunken
rocks around them.

ESPIRITU SANTO ISLANB, forming part of the eastern side of La Paz
Bay, is 12 miles long N.W. by N. and S.E. by S., and 2 to 4 miles wide; it
is of volcanic origin, with numerous peaks, the highest of which is 1 ,970 feet
high. Rich copper mines are stated to exist on it. Lupona Point, its southern
extremity, is low and sandy, and between it and Bonanza Point, the next to
the N.E., the coast consists of alternate bluffs and sand beaches. From hence
white sand cliffs extend for \\ mile to a mound of boulders, and then the coast

turns to i\u

quarter of a

* or ti fathoi

Lobos I'oi

the coast fall

beach. A n

f.ohos Point,

side. Islu Pi,

of land less tli

I'hc northei

off it are Los .

the third is a 1

narrow channe

The western

niiies from the

f^'mth of which

vessels. £allen

the western sh(

three-quarters ol
bluffs.

A short distnn
two small island
rhorngc, frequen^
'" a sharp, dark,
%. between Vri
Ijiit \i th very sht
fliould keep outsiJ
of the island, is a
spicuous red mour
pt'iisa and Luponal
mile from the shorl

lA PAZ BAY
South, and from 1(
tiitlden dangers.
California.

Mechudo Head,
^^■^ \ W. from the
cliff, about 300 ft.
Si miles westward
■ninentpeakofaraJ
visible upwards of s]
»k. There is sai(f
For 5 miles S. by I

i^'A

11 Mf-'.\

J. "jii-ii

ESPIRITU SANTO ISLAND-LA PAZ UAY.

Ifi?

turns to the Eaiit for half a milu to a point off whicli a rocky reef extondN a
quarter of a mile. In the bight southward of thii* point there is anchoragu in
5 or t> fathoms, protected from north-wcoterly winds.

Loboi I'oint, the easternmostt point, w n hi^h rocky bluff, and from hence
tlic eoast falls away to the N.W., generally bluff, witli Hhort stretches of sand
beach. A reef extends a quarter of a mile off a rocky point 4 miles from
I.obos Point, and here the island is nearly divided by an indentation on cither
side. Isla Purtida, the northern portion, is joined to the main part by a neck
of land less than 3U0 yards wide.

The northern point of Kspiritu Santo is a rocky bluff, and about half a milo
off it are Los Islntet, three flat rocky islets, two of which are 60 to 60 ft. high ;
the third is a large rock, about 5 ft. high, westward of the other two. The
narrow channels between them are only navigable by boats.

The western side of Kspiritu Santo is similar to the eastern side. About 2J
miles from the North end is L'l Cardonal, a small inlet, three-quarters of a milo
South of which is a cove, in which there is said to be snug anchorage for small
vessels. Ballenas lalund, 228 ft, high, lies about half a milu off the middle of
the western shore of the island, with 3 to rt fathoms between ; it is about
three-quarters of a mile long East and West, barren, and surrounded by rocky
bluffs.

A short distance south-eastwn 1 of Ballena Island arc Gallo and Gallinat
two small islands, between winch and the shore is a partially protected an-
pliorngc, frequently used by eoe "ters. I'rieta Point, 2 miles farther to the S.E.,
is a sharp, dark, bluff point, des ;endin 5 in several steps from the hills. Gabriel
bay, between I'rictu I'oint and the next to the S.P^, is of considerable extent,
but " th very shoal water except in its outer part ; vessels anchoring hero
should keep outside the 5-fathonis line. Dispema Point, the S.W. extremity
of the island, is a rocky bluff, one-third of a mile northward of which is a con-
spicuous red mound, 213 ft. high, composed of lumps of lava. Between I)is-
pensa and Lupona Points less than 3 fathoms is found at three-quarters of a
mile from the shore.

LA PAZ BAT is an extensive indentation, about 40 miles long North and
!>outli, and from 1 6 to 20 miles wide, with deep water, and said to be free from
hidden dangers. At its S.E. end is the town of La Paz, the capital of Lower
California.

Mechudo Head, the northern limit of La Paz Bay, lies 18J miles N.W. by
W. i W. from the North point of Kspiritu Santo Island ; it is a bold, stratified
cliff, about 300 ft. high, surmounted by a dome-shaped hill 750 ft. high. At
3J miles westward of it is Mechudo Mountain, 3,672 ft. high, the only pro-
minent peak of a range of table-mountains extending to the southward ; it is
visible upwards of 50 miles, and, with the headland, makes an excellent land-
mark. There is said to be plenty of game hereabout.

For 5 miles S. by W. of Mechudo Head the coast consists of perpendicular

.|;

i, . ..^- ■■. . ..

I" ','■ '-, ■ ►'

'P- ■"".'■.

i'f'l

!v>

.j.«

' -t ^SSrjVt i' V ■■ tun ".

168

THE GULF OF CALIFORNIA.

bluirB, l/iO to 200 ft. hif;li, und then for Nome miles farther soutliwnnl it con-
sists of Hunil bciiclu'H backed by Hund-liills. HUiirs tlien apain coniineiiec j;ru-
dually, increasiiifj in heifj;lit to Coyot« Point, a perpendicular, white, rocky
point, 19 miles S. J K. from Mcehu(h) Head. To the southward of Coyote
I'oint, aH far as the S.W. anj^le of the bay, the coast presents a lonp; ran^e of
tableland. .'iOO to 1,000 ft. hif;h, ending in dilF* .')0 to 100 ft. hi(,'h, with
shinfjle beaches in'tersjiersed. At .OJ miles South of Coyoto Point is San Juan
ranch, just westward of which is a conspicuous dark peak, I,4.'{1 ft. hi;.fh.

{•"roiii the S.W. corner of the bay the southern coast for the first miles con-
sists of sand-hills. 2.') to 1>i ft. hif^h, and then for 8 miles eastward, to the
eastern end of I'll Mof>;ote, it is low and sandy, covered at n short distance from
tlie beach witli shrubs and buslies; shoals extend nearly a mile otfall this coast,
the depth on them varyinfif from 'IJ ft. to 8 fathoms.

LA PAZ HARBOUB. — III Mojote w n low sandy peninsula, 5 miles lon^'
I'last and West, protecting the northern and western sides of the harbour. A
boat passage ()asses near its N.I'", point, with less than ft. at low water, eii-
terinp; tlie main channel o])[)()site the town. I'riciu i'oinl, on the Fast side el'
the entrance of the channel leading to La Paz, is n sharj), perpendicular, gray
bluir, ;V2 ft. high ; some rocks lie off it, and shoal water, n-cky bottom, extends
about a (juarter of a nule S.W. of it. Nearly 3 miles N.F. by K. i K. from it
is a liill, 1,.')27 ft. high, with a conspicuous tree on its summit.

From I'rieta I'oint to La I'az the distance is ;Ji miles; vessels of 10 ft,
drauglit may >i.se the channel to La I'az at any time of tide, but should always
take a pilot, as it is narrow and tortuous, with steep banks on either side. The
northern entrance is usually marked by a buoy on each side. If obliged to use
the channel without a pilot, an experienced eye aloft and the leail are the only
gui<lcs that can be depended on. About a mill? southward of I'rieta I'oint is
;in entrance to the channel, through which IJ fathom may bo carried ; it is luil
over 100 yards wide, but is much used by small coasters, who enter it by
Iniiiging the North point of a largi> detached rock on the sliore to lii'ar F.S.I'!.
When waiting for a pilot, vessels may anchor any when! southward of I'rieta
I'oint, in from 7 to 10 fathonis. The best anchorage at La I'az is from ^00 to
.'100 yards westward of the wharf, in .'ii fathoms, sand; vessels drawing less
tliai\ I'J ft. can lie at the end of the wharf. Iteyond La I'az the elianiul
curves to the westward, terminating in a largo lagoon, a channel with 'J tti .'!
fathoms leading to its N.W. limit. It is higli water at the anchorage off Li
I'az, on full and change, ut 8'' '27'" ; the tide rises I J ft.

'i'he town has a popidation varioiisly estimated at from '2,000 to •1,000.
Cortes landed here. May L'rd, l.'i.'J.O.* It is a beautiful little ])lace, ncsliid

• Thd I'ort of Iiii i'az wiis namiii at tlm tiino of its iliHcovury lliiiiiii il" Santa C'ruz ; iilltT-
wiinls it was oiiik'd under tliu niuno uf I'urto dt^l Miiri|noas dul Valln (Oorlus}, and UaV.y tlut
•ly which it ia now known. It was during his Nta- mi Ihis buy that Cortus rucuivml tlio im-

|lv|:.fj,:,i.

amongst j)ali

of variegatei

^fu'iy of tiio

"•■'•T hot in s

tobcr, ami N(

^ic»h hovf,

""•nil (/iiantitii

"iimerous and

towns on the }i

the i)earl trade

At Lii I'nz, (

•10 tons, are /it(

"ii'J will bring I

"'•'J ends ii, ()(,

1'" l';iz and nen

''"'". Lo.s Cor,,,,,

I'lisinesH is j,ri„c

Ni'ar the old i

•"I'^er mines of y

'" •'*"'''''l «iuantitl,

Slid i„ cxi^t near

to I,a I'„z.

'» i'" I'a/ Jiay.

''"' 'I'O'. with li^r|

'"'"'"der of the yc
''■" I he Xortli'.J

"'"' '■'"Cks lyi,,;, ,.

Picliiling'ue hJ

muciiH, /.s/„,i(/, iJ

'''"'■I' 'I'Kl the I„,",|

'■"■■'''• '"■'"A; I.rote,

'''""'• "'"i at ■! cahl

■U'lavel !,eaeli extf

^'"'I'.v l>lu/r, i.s a s„J

''n"'"i. yieldin;; 1,1

'""■^".v a Nhelvi,,;, J

"'^^■'" llieS.J.;. J

'^'•'•^»n' is Jiiddc, si

''•■wntnowsofhiTdl
:"'"Hnotl.,.sH,„.ii

''"'"■""'"'■OMUMan.l.

LA VA'/j IIAUIIOUR.

160

amongst palm ticos at the extremity ol' the inlet, suriouiuled by hold mountains
of variegated voleanie roek, so common along the coast of Lower California.
Many of the sirects are lined with trees. Tiie climate is very healthy, though
^ery liot in sm.-.icr ; terrible hurricanes sometimes occur in September, C).
tobcr, and November.

Fresh beef, vegetables, bread, fruit, wood, and water may bo procured ii.
small (piantities ; the lultcr is obtained from wells. Snakes are said to be very
numerous and venomous. An extensive trade is carried on with the other
towns on tho gulf, and with the settlementJi in the interior ; it is the centre of
the pearl trade, and a prominent port for the export of silver.

At Lu I'ttz, the Hio Yatpii, aiul (luaymas, eight or ten small vessels, of 12'/ ,0
•10 tons, are fitted out for the pearl fishing. The divers are all Ya(piis In'Vi.ius,
and will bring up h'hells from a depth of S fathoms. 'J'he fishing begins iu Afay,
mid ends in October. The priuci|)al jjcarl banks in the gulf are in the IJay of
I. a Viva and near Loreto, the S.W. point of the Isle ("arnien, Kuerto l-lscon-
(lido, Los C'oronados, Los Dan/.autes, San Hruno, and San Marcos Islands. Tho
business is priiu'ipally iu the haiuls of (lermans.

Near the old mission of Sun Antonio, about -lO miles S.K. of La Viva, arc tho
silver n\ines of Tn'iinjo, the j)roperty of an .American (ronipai\y. (iold is found
in small <|uantitics towards the granite range of S;ui La/.aro, and copper ore is
Miiil to exist near the I'alabazas, lO miles from the Triunfo mines, on tho road
to I, a I'az.

In La I'az Lay, from May to November, north-westerly winds prevail during
tlie ilay, with light airs from the so\illi-e;ist\vard by nigiit. During the ro-
iiminder of the ytuir, winds from S.lv to S.W. prevail day and night.

To the North of Prieta Point is a small b.»y, full of slioals and coral reefs ;
Ciihmtdo Point, on its North side, is a bold, rocky, redbluil", about 50 ft. high,
with rocks lying a cable off it.

Pichiling-ue Harbour.— Northward of Colotudo Point is San Juan Ni<po.
mwiiut /.slant!, l.J mile long North and Soulli, and .'5 cables wide, between
wliicli aiul the land is tho small harbour of I'ichilingne, one of tho best on tho
miist, being protect( (1 on all sides, The wi stern shore of the island is a steep
liliill', and at 1 cables below its northern end is a rock awasli, a cable off slior(!.
A f;ravi'l beach extends around the southern end, and near the S.M. end, a
Mi'ky bluff, is a small hill 1.') ft. high, its western side sloping to a small salt
h';m\, yii'lding large (luantities of salt, 'I'iio eastern sid(> of tho island is
imisily a shelving sand and gravel beacd;, 'J'lient is a coal d<'pot for the I'.S,
luvviit the S.lv end. The natives have a tiaditiou that a largo amount of
iii'iisure is hidden somewhere on the island.

li'isiint luiws of hU (IJHf'rncc, lironnlit nn by tlui ji'iilmiHioM wliiili liis (j;roat sorvii'vs r.iiNiul,
W'l lliiit, not losN jmiufiil, uowa of tlio m rival of tins lir»t Mt'.xicau viceroy, sunt to runlaco
liinin \\\n coimmiiukI.

Nuit/i I'licijic, m

v^'r

.mai.

170

THE GULF OF CA'LIFOllNIA.

' W t>

The harbour is about one-third of a mile wide, with u depth of 4 i to
fathoms, nnd is easily entered from the southward ; the northern end of the
island is connected with the land by a shoal with only 3 ft. water over it.
Small quantities of tolerobly good water may be obtained from a well in a
vulloy on the eastern shore. Very fine pearls used to be found in this vicinity, •

For vessels not wishing to enter the harbour of La Puz, or those of over 20
feet draught which cannot reach that place even at high water, Pichilinguo
affords an excellent anchorage. The wind is fair for boats to go from hence to
La Paz during the day, and fair to return toward evening and during the night.
It is high water at the entrance, on full and change, at 8'' 30'" ; springs rise
4^ ft. To the South of the eastern point is False Bay, a cove about three-
quarters of a mile in extent N.E, and S.W., with 5 and 6 fathoms in its outer
part.

A vessel anxious to keep on the coast of Mexico, or in its neighbourhood,
during the bad season, cannot do better than run over to the Bay of La Paz
on the West shore of the Gulf of California, and but little to the North of
Mazatlan. In approaching it from Mazatlan the Island of Ceralho will be first
made, high and mountainous, and from it Espiritu Santo will be seen bearing
about W. by N.

Capt. Richmond says (1854) that the lead is not to be trusted in La Paz Buy,
as the water shoals very suddenly from 20 fathoms into danger on its wcsu'iii
shore, as well as against the islands to the East.

Lohos Island, northward of Sau Juan Nepomucino Island, is a (juarter of a
mile long, and 90 ft. high, lying 1 \ cable off shore. It is covered by a liglit
deposit of white guano. Lohus Rock, three-quarters of a mile northward of
Lobos Island, and half a mile offshore, is 12 ft. high. Kasttvard of the rock
is a small cove, with 2 to 2J fathoms water, which would afford good shelter
for small vessels. Diablo Point, IJ mile N. ^ E. from Lobos BocK, is a sharp
rocky bluff; between it and San Lorenzo Point, IJ^ mile to the north-eastward,
the shore recedes, forming a small cove, named Puerto Balandra, having 13
fathoms in its entrance, but inside the 3-fathoms lin, it is full of rocks and
shoals.

San Lorenzo ChaniiC\ separating Espiritu Santo Island from the mainland,
is 3J miles wide, but has some dangerous rocks and shoals in it, rcndeiiii!,'
great caution necessary wlien navigating it. Coyotv. ^'oint, the S.M. point of
the entrance, is rather low and rocky, with a small white rock close off it, and
a reef extending a little over a cable. At 2 miles westward of Coyote Point a
shelving rocky ledge, named Las Guleras, extends a quarter of a mile AV.N.W.
from a bluff point. About a mile farther westward is Arranco O.thc/lo Point,
a steep rocky projection, backed by a hill 104 ft. high ; a .^mall l^-fathoni shoal
lies 3 cables north-westward of it, with 2^ fathoms between.

Scout Shoal, with 1.J fathom on its shoalest part, is a dangerous shoal, lyin;
1 1 cables N. W. i N. from Arranco CabcUo Point ; it is about a quarter of a

mile in f
can hnoy
a I'atsa^c
^(in Lc
tance S.E,
a rocky lo,
least wafer
tJie shoaJes
"■ator nt loi
'Jhc main
I'lartersoff
t''o eastward
"iiieii wilj J,
"I'^i of Diabi
"'I-' NortJj cj
'I'l.irfcrs of a
J'l'^iJensa l>oi„
Point bears S.i
l-'iablo J»oint.
's advisable to ^
J'ctncen San
T""-tmofa mi
««.thor, or w),c
"i^' A'oi'tli end c
""•""fe'li it, steer
'■'••^'t i.igh, the fin
™ 'iny beanng b]
i.obos Points arc
''■ ''y ^V- and kej
i'iaWo Point.

'^0 pass til roil.-; j
Uo,sl'ointsi„y

■;' ^'y ^^i.'^pensn l\
''"' -^'ortli end of i

"""« tl'c course
sseor E, ? V

^■''"' lesseJs not dj
'"" "'nt South of
'■^^'%' During,
'^f''^. blowing fi.o.,

'f''^i"H lasts nil
, ;'''^'«-^i'" C'oroto pJ

"'•""''■"% with oj

SAN LOKENZO CHAX.Vel.

«^-' Zo,.«,,„ /,.,,^ J ' ^^th 4 fathoms water.

'^ -cky lodge, 4 cables long NAV 'n , s r V'""' °'^«P'"tu S„nto IsZ'l

•'"■•"'> imchviiv bctwcni. Y I 1 "■'"> "cann-'' K. .1 M

;;;-; ™-^^.» !«.„. .„. .,.t C;7 ;"«':;;• •;■" «'.™ '.».» „;u:

' or Lernlbo cannot h,. ,„„ i '"'o'-' ^mIi be past 7r

;.;-tm of a n,i,e off Co,ote l-o t \jt ""'' ^'^^■'- ^" 1- abo t th J
I^'Tcnsa Point, the SA\'. extremi v ' , • " ^''' ''' ''^^^ V,'. by N f
I'oi'it bears S.W. by S , "*'7"> °' ^'^^I'-'itu 8anto, until aJ„ , ,"
T),ni ] n • • ''J »• i i>., wlien steer W ••< sj .-. . '^"-anco Cabelio

•"'oi' ->. by L., .,„( steer for fj,„ .•„ , ^ -t'onanza and

'»»E. i N ' "" '■"l"™" I'oiM bear, «■ } » 7 ' ™"-

^''-Ubj broken and mountainous

t lit: ,■.'.;.• '-Il-

•■1

I.:

If '

i •'

1 ; I i

f Mi*

I* k

173

TIIK GULF OF CALIFORNIA.

■,: ' f

film

v"i':«,

i:M

»■'•

country. At hnlf n mile Routh-cn«twnrd of Coyote Point is ft bold, rocky bluff,
M-ith modcrntcly bigli liills, which haw frcq\icntly been mistaken for the jioint.
At 5J milcH farther on is ii rocky bluff, backed by a conspicuous hill 9S4 ft.
high, the N.W. point of Jlo.iario Hay. At the bottom of this open bay, which
18 fornic<l between the bluff and Point Santa Cruz, about 2 miles to the S.E., is
a ranch, just North of wliich a shoal extends a short distance ofT. A large
white rock and several small ones lie off Point Santa Cruz.

At 3 J miles beyond Point Santa Cruz is a rocky point, off which a reef
extends nearly a quarter of a mile ; fresh water may be obtained near this
point. At 2 miles fartli'"- lo the S.K. is Point La Lin, L'i miles S.E. of which
is Ci'orda Point, a bold rocky bluff, 50 to 75 ft. high, the N.W. limit of
Ventana Pay.

Ventuna Hay is a large open bay, 12i lulles wide between Point Oorda and
Point Arena de la Ventana to the Iv by S., and (5 miles deep, much frctjuenled
by pearl-fishing vessels. 'J'licre is (iiieliornge in 5 to 8 fathoms at half a mile
off whore in any part of the bay. 'J'he South shore is low and sandy, but on
the N.W. side th(! hills rise more abruptly, with some high peaks in the
interior. Los (.'aaic/iilr.i, the two liighest peaks, arc over 4,000 ft. high; they
lie 74 miles to the S.W. of (Jonlii I'oiiit, and ure a mile apart, H'ing visible
froi.i a great distance.

At '.».} miles westward of I'oiiit Arena in the small village of /« Ventana,
lying near the shore of the bay; there is a road from here to the Triunfo silver
mines, about 15 miles distant, but the silver is shipped at La Paz. Fresii
water, cattle, hogs, poidtry, vegetables, &c., may be obtained here.

J'oint Arena dn la Ventana, low and sandy, should not be approached
within half a mile, fathoms being found at that distance. In moderate
weather anchorage may be obtained inside the point, in G to 8 fathoms, sand ,
the tide rises about 4J ft From lience the coast continues low and sandy to
Perico Point, 2J mi'cs to S.E. by S. ; the latter is a steep, white, rocky bluff,
40 to 00 ft. high, backed by an abrupt hill, 707 ft. high. At about 2 miles to
the S. by W. of the point is u small cove, the const between being similar to
the j)oint.

CERALBO ISLAND, lying .TJ miles to the northward of Point Arena dc la
Viiitana, is high and barren, I'l.i miles long N.W. and S.E., and from 1 to 1
miles wide. It is said to contain rich copper mines. In the northern part of
the island is a jieak, 2,205 ft. high, and another in the southern part 2,477 ft.
high. The eastern side of Ceralbo is a succession of bold, rocky bluffs and
gravel biaehes, with deep water elose-to. A : eef extends nearly half a mile
off the North point, and small vessels, esj)ecially those engaged in the pearl
fishery, fVe(iiicntly anclior close eastward of the point, somewhat protetted
from strong N.W. winds.

Sral UocI;, 4 miles N.W. S N. from the North point, is about 100 ft. Ion;;
and !2 ft. high, witii a few suialler rocks in the vicinity forming u (luiigiiimii

group. /
water, nr„
channel b(

"'0"gh 80

survey.

'J'Jiu west

>^^<^n distan

'*''g'it indei:

f-a Liniona ;

'■"""th limit I

'"■"•(her south

""iilhwnrd of

'■■•'""d. 'J'hc .

aiielioi'age i„

■'■'•••• ''.VE. of,
I'Mniding n|,„|

rocky bJu/r, is ,
j^fontann /,'„

d.ingorous rock,

Oi'nriMg nbout >
^ ■'"'J fathoms
J" using the
necessary to keej
I'asswcll to the
'" '>ear anything
vessels shoulj „ot
knots per hour. ,
'0 La Paz will ,Io
"f'luainted with tl
thick weather.
^^iuertoi Jiay ;„

■'■'"' '«"<! nt the bac
f"»minont peak, .3
''"""• f" the nortl
'"^ky shore, but i„

™''' ''"'f a mile o

'liort.'.

"'"'-''■'■"" P.in, a

u \ ■

CKRALBO ISLAND

eroup. At Jc,,.stl,nnl00v„r,l«f, • " '

7'-.;r.-l a .l.e to J^l^ t ^''^'^''^^ " « ^'^ »-h at W
cJ.anncI bc.con thc«e rock,, „ Jcer.;. o " 1'" " """^ "^ ^ '•"^'--- -o

'.o"gh «o„,o .0,0 reported V. ^Z T '" ''^ '''^ ""'"^ '^'^'^^<^ ,

««rvoy. ex.t before the ti,„e of the Ameriean

^''«-' western shore of Ccrall • •

;;- ..tanee o^the ^U., S.^;: ;,:::^ ^^ 1"^ -t-. A reef extends a

/-Z.m.«„; A/ !/„„„,,,„,. .^ /,.„i,;;"'V'''''': "' ^''° ^^ottom. known a,
.South Ii.„i, ,,„•„., , /;/" ; " ;'''"\''^^'''» -'^ -'■'- '^-ther «outh. i

f'Tther southward is rwr..,. /'''"J'' '"«''• "''"to bluff At 'it '

"'« o. n|,„;h ,,, low and sand V f • ^ '"""'• ^''^ next point

«->';-«e in ,0 n.th.„„,,. , ,.,,,,r or ,^'''?'°"'^''^^-^'-'-cIo there i
'■■■ y K. of the S.W. point i« ;w,: • 7' , J "'^'^^-''-t- "f a n.i"
•^■^to". n, ab„., „ ,,..,..,.^„^ ^^^ n.i ; t' "^ '""' '''-'' '""""*• -"' -^ -

S ; ;^ r ""'^ °-^ ^^ -'"- "'- ' '" "^^ '"^ '■'■ ^"-' ^ «-p.

■"Montana Itock, g„ „,n„,„,i ,

"""'")• "> I'-P in mU.cl,a„„e, /„ "!? '";' ""'' "■" '""-"• '' » only
>» 1« r« rt, j„ b,„„ „,r™ ■.7" °' " '"I' »»iling vc„ol» b„,„„;

"» l».I »< .I.C back of „„ baV „;. .'t',' :'• " """' '" «•'■:■ I')- «. J S
K«-"™. ,.o»k, .,.708 f, ,„-,,h . '%°''7'"°'"™b-4,(«.or,. |.,„„„

''"""■ , "■ 'l-norUK.,.,, pan ,^ '.b^'.",^,. , "'"" "^ ">■ -V- f™. Pe»o

""■ ''■" » ■""« off .1.0 ..„d,. b' , ""','" "'"''"""SO - « <« 10 fa,b„„,,
"7; "'""""^ "««l ™oh« „oar ,b„

'I""'> the J-;,- ' •„„l „«• 1 •^ '''•'* ""'<''^ to S.K. bvE If •

1 ■ ' ^l'

wtvi

WB'i

i :i . !'■

174

TIIK GULF OF CALIFORNIA.

but the soiithcni part is low and sandy, and a doptli of 3 to 5 fathoms, with
indications of shiftin}^ shoalcr spots, is found at half a niilo off between Arena
I'uint and a steep rocky point 13 j miles north-westwai i of it. Several arroyos,
or streams, open into the bay, and there arc several ranches near the shore. At
2 J niik's southward of Pescaderos Point arc the ruins of a stone building, and
nt '.>i miles farther on is llnca Trinidud, with an extensive ranch near it.

Arena Point has deep water off it, but a heavy surf breaks around it. In-
land is a plain covered with cactus, bushes, and trees, among which the copal
tree is found. In moderate weather there is good anchorage in 7 to 10
fathoms, sand, at 1 mile S. by W. \ \V. from the point, and less than half a
mile offshore. The tide rises about IJ feet.

liitween Arena Point and High lilidf, 7 miles to S.E. by S. J .S., the coast
forms iui open bay l.j mile deep, with a sandy shore. lli<jh I'li'JI i^ a vwky
lieadland, 50 to 7.) ft. high, surmounted by a hill 820 ft. high ; .shoal wiiti. r
extends a slwnt distance around it, with numerous detached rocks elo^t-tu.
At li mile N.W. by X. 4 N. from it, and 1 cables off shore, is a sm:ill
breaking slioal, with \ to .^ fatlmms between it and the shore. Cape I'ulmo,
well open of High Biull', and bearing notliing eastward of S. ^ E., leads clear
of it. .lust to the South of High lUuff is a small settlement of pean
^i^hcl•s.

Cape Pulmo is a gray, bold, rocky bluff, 111) ft. high, surmounted by a
bill 8.J0 ft. high, i miles southward of High liluff, the coast between con-
sisting chiefly of sand bluffs about 20 ft. high, with a few outlying rocks. At
li mile northward of the cape, and about one-third of a mile olf shore, is a
small white rock, 12 ft. high. At 7 or 8 miles to the north-westward aio
some abandoned silver mines. On the South side of the cape is a mall bay,
with 10 fathoms within a cable's length of the beach; at its head is a stream
and a ranch. The sea breaks for a (quarter of a mile off the S.F. point.

Between ('a])c I'ulmo and (Jorda Point, 21 miles to S. l>j- \V. I W., the
coast is moderately low and rocky, with occasional sand beaches, sloj)iiig
gradually to the mountains. At 8 miles southward of Cape Pulmo is Por/ia
Point, i\ bold, rocky bluff GO ft. high, with numerous rocks close off it; it
may be recognised by its light gray colour. About 3 miles northward of it is
n rocky bind, ("lO ft. high, an arroyo and a ranch lying about midway between.
At 10 miles S.S.W. of Porfia I'oint is Polfia Point, low and rocky, with a
sm-f always breaking on it. About midway between the water is shoal and
discoloured for a mile or more off shore ; at a mile olF the depth was 12 fathoms.

(lorda Point, '<> miles S.W. of Polfia Point, is a round, rocky bluff about
50 ft. high, with many rocks close off it; a rather flat-topped hill rises from
to a height of 300 ft. At 1^ to 2 miles West of the point, and near the shore,
arc the Ccrros Prietos, a cluster of conspicuous hills of a conical shape and
light gray colour, resembling small craicrs ; they are distinguishable at a con*
si.lerable distance.

I'nlniia
^hicii
nio(Jcr«i
Laxaro

''it' wukJ
■•i"d the
MitJi the
^"■'iiienfoc

"t'Ji as on

"•'lalcrs mil

'''L' port of

^ L'ssels ni

■ f" ''^ f-iV^oi
miles N.I.J, jj

'■''"■''•i^^t a sJior
'-'""''■"g iJi on
■^"•^"- Thotu
-^' a little (
Josr /.Yew, ^j.j
^^icn^ixo, fertij
•'ip sand lUgc J
t^ist«-ard is a sn,
''"^ ^""^^ of the I
'''^/•'■"i^'^ boariJ
'•''Jie village ofl
^"irtens of a ,n J
■'""^ "-"od, may
f ""■■'"•^'I at tro\
^'■^'I'lcntonthe
^^^'^'^kvaro.„I,

■"''' '"■•'"J', namcdl
'•*'.*• ^^ obtained J

•^'"'Omission ofl

i'A

I-azoio to the N„„: , , "'"""» inliliij ,vi,l, „ """•■ «lo

«.«."■., I, „,:, J?""' -"'I. "•-.. The ta, ,,:„,;" '"""■"»"" "^ ■'^"
.1.0 .n'z: ;::''■' ''r'""^ ".« m,„ ;■;;'?•,■'', <■"""■■■■

'"■V'mlo<], „,.,,,, .., ," '"""»■■■. .l.or,f„„, ,1,,,, ,,„. '"" "' (-•'■«..!» oil'

■»--rxT^:^v----^

Jose liiicr wliiV.i. ■ ■ • "'""1 I'iiliniT T) • . •

«'-.■«, ^rffl,r" „""■'■'• »"■'■■» .■.. .!.« i: ' '; ^ ■"»' •*.

»■-". i» « ::r:r:::: •""" '■"-'■-':^':::. :;,:;:'; "' ^-

"« l»t of Ho cl.l, . ,, •" °'"".. "hero t-ooj „.,,„ ' '^""'" 1» .ho

™" '■■"»=- of s.„ w oV, :f '° r '™"'"^4..;oo "'^""'" "-' -^

""^ «'»'■■ "VboohC 'a,"", "" '""""'» "f «.:'"'"■ "'»'•
= J 'l"v ,„ ,1 , f ■ "" " ■■""' "■•■■do 1,0,0 • ""'■ "'"■"■ " i- cj

. ^. ,. . . ^~^ _ " ^ •"'• ^"^ ^-'Jinj? to tl,o

^'thcmiBsion of San J - ~"^

^ ?-- -:^£ J:'-^^^

erff E* 1

176

TllK Ol'Ll'" 01'' CALIFORNIA.

village, wlieru pcrttoitH ^itthing to go overland to the mines of La I'uis
inuy procure iiorscs nnd mules fur the journey, which in somewhat over lOU
miles.

This boy was visited by II. M.S. Herald, in June, 1848, nnd Cupt. Henry
TroUope, U.N., thus dpHorihoH it.

The Huy of Sun .Iosm Ih an indifrorcnt roodstcnd at the cxtrfnie of the
Californian I'eninNuIa. It is entirely exjjosed from N.M. l)y the l'la.st to
H.S.W. ; the water is deep evon eloso to the shore, and a hole havinjj; 10 or 50
fathoms exists in the best part. It i.s, however, u convenient place fur oh>
taining water, as well as for fresh beef and vegetables. Fruit, such as figs
nnd oranges, milk, Mexican cheest!, nnd one or two other articles may be pru'
cured from tlie village. One of the marks for the boy will be th- high range
of hills running to the N.^V. ; the remarkable thumb-peak of San Laxaro
standing uj) like a pinnacle is the highest of the range, while the valley of the
river is elcurly defined between this range on the left and u much lower range
of pinnacles, craters, and flat table-lands oi. the right.

Kunning along the coast from the eastward, Punta Oorda (the northernmost
point of the bay) is too remarkable to escape notice — a flat white hill of
moderate height, jjcrliaps 150 or 180 ft. high, with several pyramidal hills to
the left, particularly a group of three in one with a flat-topped eratcr-like hill
or truncated cone near it, and a flat level plain with a conical hill in it to the
right ; the long playa, or sandy beach, will then be seen, running along which
you will soon distinguish the strcani and a flagstaff on a slightly elevutud
mound. The coast may in imy part be approached without danger, huviug
.0 or G fathoms close-to, but deepening very rapidly. To avoid letting go
your anchor in the 50-fathoms hole, keep the flagstaff open to the westward of
the high jjcak of San Lazuro, or thumb, as wo call it, the latter bearing
N.W. by W., when a vessel may anchor in 13 to ITx fathoms, soft nmd, three-
quarters of u mile from the shore.

The river is 50 yards to the left of the flagstaff, and at low water, when
there is but little surf on the beach, aflbrds an excellent supply. It is, how-
ever, liable to interruptions ; strong N.W. breezes raise a heavy surf on the
beach, rendering landing somewhat difficult. However, with a party on shore
filling and a liuuliiig-lino for the casks, we completed very expeditiously,
getting forty tons on board in thirty liours. The sea at high water percoiutes
through the sand, rendering the water brackish nnd unfit for use. This can bo
remedied by going higher up the stream, but the labour is of course niorc,
Horses are good and easily obtained. There arc no remain? of the Franciscau
Mission of San Josu, the origin of the place.

Palmia I'oint, the S.W. extremity of San Joso I3ay, is a low, bluff, rocky
2)oi:it, with numerous rocks close off it, backed by a mound 353 ft. high. At
1 J mile off this part of the coast no bottom was found at 100 fathoms. Ccrro
C'ohradu, near the point aud ut half mile from the beach, is of red saudbtuuu,

602 ft,

Jos(' ai

For (

for n j;

•■•'inches

frntc he

folour, i

lonky CO

«'i'id f)cac

CAPE

though no

"'" ujouiita

''^tremity i

"terilo nj)pf

t'"-' Jiills, w

J.iifa.s ]iny

''''•'•J', rnrky
/.OS /.).„//,

""■'" ; the w

'■''■'I' of U>w ,

'""•(.sea.st,.,.,,

'"tk is L',31 ft.

'■^<' '-i'-i' r>2' no

" ;ini of it. 7

San lucas

I isyM

CAPK SA\ JX'CAS.

^'or about ]i mile S W h «
«"• « dmtnnco of j*! m;,^„ "•/ , "'" ^"''"''i ^'«''"t tho coast .•« . i
ranchcH ].•„, , ■, '* '« '"^ ""'1 Handy as fa, "''^' """^ ^^cn

«-'' '>eacJ. of s,.„ j„ ''- '^rther wc.twarcl. where it Joins t" , "

CAPE SAN LUCA«J /■' '''-''^'

•^^' l-t, in r, o,. 7 fathonls, . ' J^ '^ '""• ^'"•- '>-t anehon.,e is i''

'^■''>- '"'"on, was fou„,l. Afte, „ 1 -^ ,"' ^'"' ^■"1-' '^ 'h'lh of o, , ^ '^^
"--'". «too.. about X. W by V If- '" ''■"''^••^' -''-■'' '"ay be" j , T'"
'-«'-e,tbe fi„t o.,J.; ii^;'"' ^^'f ^'^ ^"--. a la.^o '.^^ J" '
'-'"inf,'.andbe.ca,Iy to e . '' ""'''""" ^'^ ""^''""a.^e K r"' "'

rvi 1

fit I*'

^ I

;, I

1 1

\ t '

^,"

T-

V 1

is *
lflffl£V"f ' -} "i

173

T.OWKR CAMrOKNlA.

a (lozoM liDus.v; niul mimerous huUs; the population, numl)Ci'ln{» nlxmt 150, arc
cliiotly i'n};ii;;iil in laisiiij; cattle. A custom-liouso huH recently been esta-
bliitheil. I'lxeellent fresh beef, vegetables anil fruit, can be obtained at
moilerato ])riees ; fretih water, of fair (juality, is abundant, the best bein^^
found in wells in the bed »>f an arroyo, about half a mile from tho beacli.
Wood can also be obtained, and there is plenty of game in the vicinity; count-
less numbers of turtle doves fill tho woods. A roud along tho beach couaects
I^au Lucas with San .lose, about Ifi miles distant.

The village eousi.sted of four houses at the time of C'njit. .Sir Kdwar'l
lieJehcr's visit, and water, wood, cattle, cheese, oranges, and pumpkins wen;
obtained. The water, which is procured from wells, is sweet when drawn, and
very bright, but is impregnated with muriate of soda and nitre, which pervaiU;
tho soil. It conseipicutly soon putrefies on board. Tho country about Cape
San Lucas is mountainous, and probably grauitiu. Thu plaiuK, us vrnli us the
hills, arc Tcry abundant in cacti.

The navigator has no hidden dangers to fear ; all aro above water. After
romiding the Frailos from the westward, he may safely stand i r tho houses,
tlro[)ping his anchor in \i) fathoms. The bad season is supposed to uomiucncu
in June, and teruiinates on the 1st of November.

A woril of caution in anchoring here may be given. Tho Sulj>/iui; on
shortening sail in coming to, had 10 I'athoins, and immediately after tliey li:ul
no bottom with S« fathoms, just as they were about letting go the anclmr.
This shows the necessity of keeping the lead on tho bottom before letting go
an anchor, or you may lose it.

The West Coast of Lower California.— With the exception of Todos
Santos and Santo Tomas, the entire ^^'est coast of the peninsula of Lower
California is barren in the extreme. The land is generally high and pre-
cipitous, ond its approaches bold, but there aro many places where vessels may
find sheltered anchorage from the prevailing winds.

Winds. — Along this coast north-westerly winds blow steadily for eiglit
months of the year; from November to February, inclusive, winds from
S.E. to S.W. aro fretpjcnt, with occasional moderate S.K. gales, aceomp.inii'd
with considerable rain. At the breaking up of these gales the wind hauls to
the S.W., sometimes blowing (piilc hard for a few hours, and then comes from
the N.W. with fine weather. Heavy northers, blowing from North to N.E, fur
one to three days, are liable to occur in December and January. Near ('a])i>
San Lucas, short but strong S.E. gales occur during the summer months,
sometimes extending as far North as ALigdalena Bay.

The weothcr is clear and ])leasant during the greater part of the year, ami
the climate healthy and equable, liain is most fretpient between May ami
October, but fog occurs at all seasons, chiefly during the summer, in the nij;lit
or early morning. There is more fog North of C'erros Island than South of it.

Tfie Currents along this coast set in tlie direction of the prevailing wind,

from
i^'iian
becfi
Th.

"feep,

"ur/lici,

arc vim"

jiMjeeti

'>eliiji(l

Tlie ^^em

nnd othe

'i'he ct

1 NUPCCSS
"'"■"VS |,t

iii.iliy ,.„(^,
''"idWc hill

''- i U-. „

'■"'isisN of
''"»-ere,i «itl

17!)

f , , ^'^Sf'ADoiiKs l,vv

"'"." 1.™.,, „.: ;;"■";"" '■'■■ 4 i ,,,,';,;" "■ • «■• ■■-

'' "•■ I"", rr.s It. i,i,,|, ■ "' '"'". u „„i.. .v,„,,|, „f -'"-I'."..!.

" • "•■ ■» ^w,,, .>",>::;":", '■;•;» " ., ;:\ X:t^', -

""'"«« "f - i.c„.i,o< ,„„.,, ; "'■'• ""■'-.'■ W'"^ 7,-, n. 1,;,,,,. .; , ; '■'■

-;:::•" r "-^'l ''-""' ' ^. '--.;.::;:?

•U)oiit 1' nuli'.s \ \Y I . », ,. " '

^^ T'-^'-- "-:-;•:: ir^'" '"-----

^ ' -'^'^ to X.n-. ,, ^ ■;' '^, "«'•• He...... rt., ,.,., Sa j! ..^ ?'. '■>•

"''^' "rc of vclli.u- l,i„H. , • '"•' ^^'•" '•irr..v,.s- ti,.- i , "V"'/ '//--.

'^^- ^'-'t..Mul iMwc... ,i.. ,„; ;'.';• /'-''--ilc..s^.,,l.c.

. TV.!

■}'V:

1 ' f 1 '

' ! •

.'•«

.1 '

f •

. J - ,1 1

f r

y*. > -UK* i

180

LOWER CALU'OUNIA.

■|

, is;

■' CI'

if ':

Bnid to 1)0 pincticnblo in fino wcnthcr ; ot the bnck is n fertile vnlloy, in which
is a settlement. At three-quarters of a mile northward of San I'cdro Point is
Lobos Point, tlie N.W. point of the same promontory.

Todos Santos River, entering the sen about 1^ mile northward of Lobos
Point, flows tlirough a fertile valley, and at 2 miles from its mouth is the
village of Todos Santos, with 800 inhabitants, on the site of the old mission of
Santa liosa. Fruit, vegetables, and cereals, of both temperate and troj)ical
climates, arc raised here, and it is an cxccllcut place to procure fresh pro-
visions and water.

In moderate weather there is good anchorage in 7 to 10 fathoms, sand, one-
third of a mile off shore, and about half a mile northward of L(jbos Point,
anchoring immediately after passing the range between Lobos and San Pedro
Points. The tide rises about 4 ft. Lobos Point is the N.W. point of a high,
rocky promontory, abruptly rising to a hill, 773 ft. high. The best landing is
at a little cove, somewhat protected from the swell, about half a mile eastward
of the point, and from hence there is a road to the village.

At 5 miles northward of Lubos Point is the Arroyo clc las Falmitas, with
palm groves at its mouth, and a beautiful valley extending inland.

From Lobos Point the coast, generally low, sandy, and barren, trends
N.W. by W. j W., 88 miles, to ]']1 Conejo Point ; about hnlfway between is
J'oint del Marquis, a low, rocky point, with a reef extending a short distance
off it, the only rocky formation on this part of the coast. In about lat. 24^ N.,
and from 5 to 10 miles inland, arc some isolated table-hills, 600 to 800 ft.
high, called Las Mesas dc Narva. In fine weather vessels may anchor any
where along this coast in 8 to 10 fatu •" mile or two from the beach. The

land being low the lead should be frcquci.. ^ -"sed, especially at night or in
thick weather, the soimdings being regular.

The cotmtry between Marquis Point and La Paz Bay, about 25 miles to the
N.E., is low and flat for nearly the entire distance, with a scanty growth of
bushes and cactus.

The OTJLF of MA6DALENA is an extensive in san J sea. whose existence
was scarcely suspected in Europe prior to the xWii of f ipt. Sir ll. IJelcher,
in 1839, when he minutely surveyed it. Nearly n'. Uj same time the Frciicli
frigate La Venus, under Du Petit Thouars, also Surveyed its shores, and liis
plan, much less elaborate than that of our English hydrographers, forms a
portion of the atlas accom^ianying the voyage. It may properly bo said to
consist of two extensive bays . Almcjas Kay to the S.E., and Magdalena Bay,
the principal, to the N.W. With the following description is incorporated
the information obtained by the officers of the U.S.S. Narraf/ansctt, in 1874.

SAirTA MARGARITA ISLAND, which forms the seaward face of the
greater part of these two bays, is a high, barren island about 22 miles in Icngtli,
by 1 to 4 miles in breadth. In its centre it is so low, that at a distance it
might be taken for two separate islands, the northern and southern portious

boi

Wll

frnr
C

n rc(

viole

iiiide;

tlie J)

and M

meiitioi

mcdfv

IhUv

f'ntrnnct

fide run

'"irrassec

fhcrefore

^ AlttR

7 milos wi

hut clear t

on the N.I

«cctcd wit

channel ha\

varj-ing froj

SoutJiwar
Iwo separate
J'rom tJie ch
'"n combinati
The Nortl
^^''^"t, true, t,
''■^trcmftics,
fcvicislj me
t'TiceS.E. of
'">''' nnd abo

AUIKJAS BAY-.>fAfinALKX V *aV.

bcine high ,„„a. Two s,K.cie, of to , • '*^

;'-''.'•« vcr, «oo.,e„.i„;, b.u H; "^^r"' «"* ^"'^ ••«'->'^ -no of

t-y. .unfit for f„o.,. b„t the she .^ e ."T '^ ' '''^ ""'-' "» the con
Cape To.co, the S.],' point of ., '.'';"^"^'"' "nd v„h,„blc.

-cef extending about ./eabts o u/ :"' 'r ''"^^' '^"''^' ■-'^7 point with

"J^^' ts leo, m 7 to » f„tho,„«. j/,;,,/ "^ ,^'- /"""'^ -'>'^twnr,l of th. ,,oi„t

At 3 J niilc8 N.K. ,,„ X. •> N of P ^ "

^'^•^V- point of Vr..,il, j^^;^ , '" '^"'^" '"^ '^'"''" ''^"-'« />./«/ tl.

-•' ^^'-^- Opposite the e,^:^: ;r:;7' if""^ "^""t ,0 n.i,. c^^'i, :

'";";';-'^. ^ low point bael<e.l ^^^^^ '"""'^ '^ ^^^ ^-'^^ /V-,V,,^^ "

Jotwcon Cape To.co and Santa Ala^Z P •"'' " '''^' ^"'^'-••"•''-
-tn,nce to the t,vo bay^hron h ^ J J'r '•\"^ ^-''- ""«' intricate
"'^' '""s very strongly throngi: this / T'' ""'>' ""' f-' ''oats. The
-ra-ed by sandy patehes nenri Id T "'""' "'"^•'' '« ""-h e

. ^.^MEJAS or lEE BAY is „bout jo n" "'"^ '"^l""'^^'!-

Jhe North side of Santi Af! • ^ ^'^'loafter noticed. "^

W «i>d sand),, .itl, ,„ t , 2T' '" """"m * Ihc co„M„

"*S|f'

^':!" ;.

' '' t '• 1

vf ■■

m \

• / '

I '"'■'

. 1 »w »

fi '■

■:/;';-'

" ;'• i

i ' ' ' ,

-)■ '

;H"-

'^''i t

n*')

' til wi » » * -»

I 'J- • J'jj t, j|

182

LOWER OALIFOUNIA.

f';.v

•4:

40 iniks. Or ■lii'ila is Lrnthoicil ami .•■lii[nicil to San I'laiu'lsoo : C\>h is alniiiilaiit.
ami there is plenty of ;;aiiie on the North sliore. Vast numliers of >hiinii)>
sometimes appear, giving the water a crimson coKiur. liotli this and Ahnejas
Bay were formerly much resorted to by whalers in the winter months ; ^ ast
numbers of whales were taken, chiefly in the latter b'^.y.

The entrance to Magilalena Bay lies between Cape Bedondo and Entrada
Point. C(Jpe Eedondo, the West point of Santa Margarita Island, is a round
rocky headland, nearly 100 ft. high, with .1 reef extending 3 cables westward
of it, its outer limit marked by a rock awash. The sea breaks over this reef;
but for two hours, on one occasion when the water was smooth, Lieut. Tanner
observed no break on the outer rock at the last of the flood and the first iif tlie
ebb. lie also observed a hca>-j- overfall, at the beginning of the flood, at least
'1 cables from the extremity of the reef, which may account for the reported
rock near the middle of the channel. Kntriida I'uint is a dome-shaped hill,
about '200 ft. high, connected with the main land by a low and narrow strip of
sand and rock ; several rocks, 10 to 20 ft. high, lie near it, and a reef extends
abo>u II cable to the S.E., over which the sea generally breaks.

The channel between these reefs is 2.^ miles wide, with 10 to 20 lathonus
water. In entering, a sailing vessel should keep wvU over toward Eiurada
I'oint, as the prevailing wind and current tend to set her toward Cajv
Itcdondo. The tidal currents here run from 1 to 2 knots per luuu-. To reaeli
the best ancliorage keep about thrce-iniartcrs of a mile from the land, nortli-
westward of Entrada Point, to Man-of-War t'ove, and anchor in S to ID
fathoms, abreast of some houses near the beach, T^ miles from Entrada Point.
Man-of-War Cove is situated at the N.W. extremity of Magdalona Bay;
the settlement is on the West side, and consisted of about ten houses in 187 1,
one used as n custom-house, and the others chiefly occupied by men engaged
in collecting and shipping orchilla. It is connected with La i'az, 11 j miles
distant, by a rough trail. It is high water here, on full and change, at 8'' 26'";
springs rise 6.J fl.. neaps 4 feet.

Light. — Xficd briyht lantern light, visible (> miles, is shown on the shore
of the cove ; Tcssels approaching at )ught should steer for 't bearii;;;
W.X.W., and anchor as convenient in about O fathoms.

In summer fresh water is brought to the settlement by small vessels, wliu'li
obtain it near one of the northern lagoons, about 40 miU's from the bay. 1 in'
watering places on the shores of the bay only furnish inferior water, obtained
bv sinking a cask in the sand. There is said to be a spring of excellent w;i!:r
near the southern end of Santa Margarita Island. Plenty of wood may Le
procured from the mangroves around the lagoons.

Having rounded I'oint Entrada. half a mile distant, haul uj) along the lanJ
to the westward. Mount Isabel is the first high laml after entering, and wluni
that is abeam the sand-spit running off fVoni the low point ;> mik\>* iiisiik'
Point Entrada, is abaft the beam, and yuu can luiul up m s;n'ety fur Co\ j

Point.
iJiin clo
Anchor

'Voun

the soutl

^vithin th

''"trance

"car t<i w;

"orthwnrt

Cove; her

Jong. HOC

Tessan's ej

ul'-War Co'

-^'orth\^•a

ehanuels e.\

'■I'ived the

-iirvcyors ar

"li,' them, n:

J" winter,

V^rt of the h

nttended.

I" the necc
following dcsi
I was iully
I'Ut oji e:uerii
'ii'-'-crued fron
K was (jnite a
at first, even n
F^i'vaiiing wi„
"1 whicji it ev,
i^iinvenient lur
^■"'■y- iVejxu-a
■-;^'-' ■•^ea, or wh;

''iM>i<'bable

i--^';i!uis, vi/., St.

^^no uiuiamed sa

^'''' fir.st j)art

'lit some j)rosj)e

»'"re noticed.

''f' '^t. I.a;;arus

!iH> two hays, a

a most cxtraonii

MAGDALV.XA BAY. 188

Point. You cannot fail to i iiiko I'ovo I'oint distinct from tlic liuul back of it.
Kun close to it, :uul follow to the anchomyo, which is directly olf the houses.
Anchor in S or '.> fathoms, one-tliird of a mile from the beach. — Cajit. W. II,
Parker, P.M.S.S. Co.

Mount Isabel, l.o'.'J ft. hii,'h, lies oj miles iS'.AV. by W. of Kntrada Point,
tiic southern point of San Lazaro peninsula. At the foot of Mount Isabel,
within the bay, a froiih-water marsh is maiked on the chart, 3 miles within the
entrance point. Five miles farther on, on the S.V.. face of the peninsula, ami
near to where the hi-h laml sinks to the lon;j: sandy nock connected with it
northward, is the ;jnclunay;e \riuler l)eli;aua Point, now known as Mau-of-War
Co\c; here Capt. Belcher establi.shed his observatory, in Lit. 2 I US' l.S' N.,
]onij. 112^ G' 21 ' ^V., at the foot of a liill 000 ft. in heii;ht. aceorJing to M. de
Tessan's chart. Accordmg to the U.S. surveyors, the observation spot at Man-
of-NVar Cove is in lat. '24- 3S' 22 N., long. 112" S' 50' ^V.

Northward of this the bay becomes very shallow, but has some deeper
channels e.\tendins; northward, separated by extensive shoals, which have re-
ceived the names of I)it I\iit T.'iouars, 'I'lssmt, and La I V;j(/.«, the French
svirvcyors and their ship. As there can be no inducement whatever for enter-
ing them, no further notice here is necessary.

In winter, with southerly winds, there is good anchorage in the southern
])art of the bay ; the chart is a sufficient guide, keeping the lead carefully
attended.

In the account of his exploration. Captain Sir Fdward Belcher gives the
following description of his progress : —

I was fully prejiarcd to have found, as the name imported, an extensive bay,
lut on catering the heads, which are about 2 miles asunder, no land could bo
ilisccrned from the deck, from N.\V. to N.K. or East ; ami even after entering,
i; was quite a problem, in this new sea. \s here to seek fo" anchurage, our depths
at first, even near the shore, ranging from 17 to 30 fatlums. Uowever, as the
prevailing winds appeared to bo westerly. I determined on beating to windward,
in which it eviutually proved I was correct. About 1 p.m. we reached a very
1-. nvenient berth in 10 fathoms, with a veiy sheltered position for our observa-
tory. Preparations were immediately made for the examination of this cxlcu-
>ivo sea, or what I shall in fut\uv term the ( iulf of Magdalena.

his piobable tliat this jiart of the coast formerly presented three detached
i>in!uls. viz.. St. Lazarus range. Magdalena range, and Margarita range, with
one unnamed sand island, and numerous sand islet.s.

The tlrst part of our expedition led us up the northern branch of what held
out some prospect of a fresh-water river, particularly as frccpient marks of cattle
wore noticed. In the prosecution of this part of our survey, wo noticed that
t'iu St. Lazarus range is only connected by a very narrow belt of &;ind bctwec;
the two bays, and that the summits of some of these sand-hills were covered in
a most extraordinary manner by piles of fragile shells, which rcsemblcil those

i ».

184

LOWER CALirOKyiA.

f()iiii<l recently in the gulf. At olovnlions of 50 and CO ft. these minute and
fnif^ile Hhf.'lis wore found prrfeci ; but on the boiicncs, either seuwiird or within,
not ft shell wii.s visible. This is the more cvtraordiiuiry, as these sandy wastes
arc constantly in motion, and drowning ever\ tiii.ig ci.se, and yet these shells
are always exposed. On digging beneath them to erect marks no beds of shells
occurred, nothing but j)lain sand. It wa.s further remarkable, that they ap-
peared to be collected in families, j)rinf'ipally area, venus, cardiuui, and murcx ;
when ostrea appcare<l they were by themselves.

The cliffs throughout the gulf abound in organic remains, and I cannot but
believe that the same cause has produced the above unaccountable phenomena,
which I witnessed throughout a range of at least 90 miles.

Having explored tlie westernmost estuary, about 17 miles North of our ob-
servatory, until no end appeared of its intricacies, I resolved on attempting a
second, which afforded a wider entrance, about 1 miles beyond the last, and it
still offered ample scope for employment, the advance boats being at that
moment in I fathoms, and distant heads in view; but finding no hope of reach-
ing fresh water, I determined on adhering to its main outlines.

l!y Noveiulx'i- '.tth (I HIS'.)), we had reached the Kastend of tlic first gulf, and
found the channel or strait connecting them not mor(> than a (jiiarter of a milo
wide. 1 was sanguiiK^ in expecting that we should di.scover a .safe eiiannel out
by the East end of Margarita, but I found tliat our boats, and, upon emer-
geiiey, the »S7ar//«y, might have pas.sed out, but it was far too dillieult and
doubtful for the ship.

We had frecjueiitly seen, indistinctly, the outlines of very high mountains,
to the eastward, distant 50 or (id miles; but on tiiis day 1 could detect bieaks
which indicated water-courses between them, and could plainly follow out
yellow breaks of cliffs as far us the i-ye could trace inland. 1 have not tlie
sl'i'htest do\ibt that these estuaries flow past them, and probably to the very
: .uso ji ho most distant mountain.

Al! .. all the time expended (IH days) on this immense sheet of water, it
»■.. naturally be enipiired, what advantages does the jjort offer? The reply
is, at the present moment, shelter; and from several water-courses, wliieh
were nearly dry at the time of our visit, it is evident that very powerful
streams scour the valleys in the winter season, which, in this region, is
reckoned between May and October. Fuel can bo easily obtained in the
estuary (mangrove).

Asa port for refit after any disaster it is also very convenient; and for this
jmrpose either our irirtherii or sontlu rn observatory bays may be selectcil.
The latter would afford better shelter ; but the former is certainly more conve-
nient, the access to it being entirely free from shoals.

In war it would be a most eligible rendezvcms, jiartieularly if watching tlio
coasts of Mexico or California, as no one could prevent the li)rmation of an
cstublishujeiit without ade(juate naval force, uud the nature of the coiaitry i'

»elf M-oii
nfTord ai
'leads of
Biih, no i
^Vater
<Jie wild
cnu.s(>s, it '
"f tJi(. Jiijj,
'■'''le ra,)^
to 2,000 ft.
Eroni Ku
Vated pnvi
hrcndti ,>r u

ilie .,.,, ^

'» «" A, hi^h
"/'"•ards.
Santa Jfarj

''''"' '^'"'fC is ,1 ,

fii.uine|.s to t,,p
'■''n"''ii-, and (he
""■'''■•'/ uartors „
''V >'-iii(Is. I'l^i

('"/"' -San lax

'"^ '"• seen f,,,. I

'"■"'.V I'oJd rnrky

''"•'li^'hest ],'j7n

•■■''• points of (J,,

■'•'■• '"••'W roe/,

""■''" '>,"'on, at th

Aims KOCKS

'""^'■kahlv rock.s

'•"'"""'■""t'on, b,u

"'""■''^"""'roeici,
■'-"" ""ticcd he,.,,
'■•"''^•il to liere.

,";'»■'•'•"< -ape Sa,

;;'"'''.voahy„,.

iiio raiifros (if i,;ii

,""■•"■ »'■ ■-i'. I.n,a „;:;""'"'- ■■« ii- .,. .V. «,:';".'•' ;-

Santa Maria B^rr ■ ""^

r=;:--3 1^^^^^^ e„

■|"'i'«ii.« 1,=-,. f,, -, „ ,■ '■ "■"' ''«'■ "«s"i ....,,„„„i,„ ;i ,":'■';"«
•"■"■. I ..« ..f .1,0 ,„ „„;,:• ^c; "'" «.... Of » ,„„c. „„. ^r """ ",•

•S»« .mliml l,,„,,r„ , , V ■^- '""- '">■ ll- .7- w n "'

'"*l.„,„.,o. "" ■■ ""'■ "■""■ "■- *.«»„„. ,J„^„. '•'>■ "•■" -0

»"»....... r»,„. s., , • "'''■ '""■« '"

'■'» llic m l„. .-..'""» Ij™- „i,irlv „„„IJ„| , „ °' •''• ""la

^ih »

s; '.

y^jK'' 1''

i 1

'^ ■ I :•

186

LOWER CALIFORNIA.

, :([;?! i',CT.,

'U'"'

interior, high land will be seen. The following description of the entrances
to them is taken from the report of the officers of the U.S.S. Narragamett,
1874. The shoals and bars at the entrances arc probably subject to occasional
changes, making an examination necessary previous to attempting to enter. In
moderate weather the channels are plainly marked by the smooth water be-
tween the lines of breakers. On the plains fronted by the lagoons there arc
many wells of good water.

Boca de Soledad, the southernmost and deepest of the three entrances to
the lagoons, is 30 miles N. by E. of Cape San Lazaro ; it is about half a mile
wide, with a ridge of sand-hills on either side, 50 to 100 ft. high. A breaking
shoal extends IJ mile north war : 'i.id westward from its southern side. To
enter, approach from the northwu/. Ing close to the line of breakers on

the North side of the entrance, and tl- v will be crossed in 9 ft. at low water,
deepening to 5 to 8 fathoms between the points, where the tide runs from 4 to
5 knots, and rises about 5 ft.

Boca de San Domingo, 13J miles N. J W. of Boca do Soledad, is three-
quarters of a mile wide, with a shoal extending a mile off it. A conspicuous
peak, 3,811 ft. high, and 60 miles distant, bearing E. by N., leads through the
entrance between the breakers, but there is only 2 J ft. on the bai'at low water;
the tide rises 5 ft.

Boca dc las Animas, 9J miles N. by W. of Boca de San Domingo, and the
northernmost entrance to the lagoons, is about three-quarters of a mile wide,
with a breaking shoal extending half a mile off it. The best channel is on the
South side, near the beach, with 3 ft. in it at low water.

Boca de Comandu, 7i miles IS'.N.W. of Boca de las Animas, is only open to
the sea during the rainy season. Near its source, about 25 miles distant, is
the ancient mission of Comandu, previously described on page 160. Boca de la
Purissima, 7 miles farther to the N.N.W., is closed during the dry season,
end flows through a narrow and very fertile valley. About 10 miles up is the
old mission of Purissima, now a village of twenty or thirty houses, with about
250 inhabitants. All sorts of fruits, vegetables, See, arc easily raised here, and
much mescal or pulque, the natioual drink of the Mexicans, is manufactured
from the maguey or aloe.

To the N.W. of Boca de la Purissima, sand-hills, 100 to 200 ft. high, line the
coast, with liigh table-lands and mountains farther inland, over which the high
peaks of the Sierra de la Giganta are plainly visible.

San Juanico Point, 11 miles N.W. 4' W. of Boca de la Purissima, is a sand
bluff, about 50 ft. high, surrounded by a shoal which commences about 21-
milcs north-westward of it, and extends from a half to three-quarters of a niilo
ofl' shore. About half a mile eastward of the point is the narrow entrance of
A't?; J'.:r.v.iro Lagoon, with about 3 ft. on the bar at low water. The lat'oou
extends about G miles to the North, and has an average depth of about 2
fathoms, with many shoals in itj soutlicrn part, Small coasters, diawing or

7 ft., entc
Vessels m
'niJcoffsI
shore is a
rocks. Sc
I'rom Ss
turns abru
southward
^"■fe'h; shoa
about half £
wind by anc
fiithoms, at
entrance to ;
San Donn
■ihle, dark, r(
fithcr side (
breaks on tli
moderate we
point, and ha!
wind.

From the eJ
N/\\^ by W.
■'^■Tidy througl
liigonn a narro
S'lnd beach, al
pn.ssages, with
smooth weathe
increasing grac|
BALIEJfAS
off the entranJ

^^'•i^ys. is.,[

quite regular,

fathoms, withir

Ingoons. With

'"■^ii surf along

made tliis a fay]

found hero. In|

nwlvward plun«>,

San Ignaoio |

tliG northward,

entrance. The

lo«- water, but i\

be extremely dail

BALLENAS BAY.

187

7 ft., enter it at highest springs. Much orchilla is gathered near the shores.
Vessels may anchor in 5 to G fathoms, south-eastward of the point, and about a
mile off shore, M-ith some protection from the coast wind. Not far from the
shore is a sulphur spring. Abaloncs and other edible molluscs are found on the
rocks. Several peaks, with perfectly flat tops, will be seen in the interior.

From San Juanico Point the coast trends 20 miles to the N.W., when it
turns abruptly to the westward for about 3 miles, and then IJ mile to the
southward to a rocky point with bluffs 15 to 30 ft. high, and a hill on it 85 ft.
high ; shoal water with rocky bottom, over which the sea breaks, extends
about half a mile off the point. Vessels may find shelter from the prevailing
wind by anchoring in Petjuena Bay, north-eastward of the point, in 5 to 6
fathoms, at a mile off shore. About 9J miles farther to the W.N.W. is the
entrance to a small lagoon, which can only be entered by small boats.

San Domingo Point, SJ miles W. by S. of the lagoon entrance, is a remark-
able, dark, rocky cliff, 175 ft. high, the cliffs extending for several miles on
either side of it. A reef extends a short distance S.W. of it, and the sea
breaks on the rocks at its foot, making it dangerous to land except in very
moderate weather There is anchorage in 5 to 6 fathoms, eastward of the
point, and half a mile off shore, affording some protection from the prevailing
wind.

From the cliffs northward of San Domingo Point the coast trends 40 miles
N.W. by W. \ W. to the entrance of San Ignacio Lagoon, and is low and
sandy throughout the entire distance. For 32 miles south-eastward of the
liigoon a narrow lagoon lies parallel to the shore, separated from the sea by a
simd beach, about a mile wide, through which are several narrow and shallow
passages, with extensive shoals off them, which can only be crossed by boats in
smooth weather. The lead is a good guide off this low shore, the soundings
increasing gradually from the beach.

BALLENAS BAY, comprised between the West end of a low sand island
off the entrance to San Ignacio Lagoon and Ahrcojos Point, IG miles to
W. by S. } S., is entirely open to the South. The soundings in the bay arc
(juite regular, and extend a long way off shore, gradually decreasing to 3
fathoms, within a mile of the low sandy beach, except off the entrances to the
lagoons. With the strong coast winds a heavy swell sets in which causes a
lii^^li surf along its shores. Whales of the " humpback " species formerly
made this a favourite feeding-ground, on account of the myriads of small iish
found here. In the fine sea.son, countless flocks of pelicans are seen making
nwkwai d plunges to catch their swimming food.

San Ignaoio Lagoon is a large sheet of water, extending about 20 miles to
the northward, with extensive shoals, partly uncovered at low water, off its
entrance. The channel is very narrow and tortuous, with 9 to 13 ft. in it at
low water, but is clearly marked by the breakers on either side. It is said to
be cxtrcuiely dangerous, on account of the strong currents running in diiicrcnt

•B'a;^^^

it.l

'■ t:-'i' ■/■■- '■' *««'3.e^ V

'|■v•,.^^•l. :•?■ :^''' vrl'iHi '

'" u

■1 :''

i'. . ■■

■\-:. <:

in •

,?■■ !

I •

i »

, ■■.-^■\ •;■■•• ' ■

1^1 ■ ,-,-;. fr It' ' •'■*■,

■•til"'..- '■ ' .' ■ ■ ';■•■•

«!;

■I

188

LOWER CALIFORNIA.

I %

ill'

directions at dlfTcicnt stages of the tide. A heavy swell usually rolls on tlio
bar at full and change of the moon. Vessels drawing 12 ft. may cross the bar
at ordinary high tides, the water deepening to from 3 to 7 fathoms inside.
Large numbers of whales were formerly found here. In moderate weather
there is good anchorage in 4 to 5 fathoms, with Point San Ignacio, on the
West side of the entrance, bearing N.K., distant 3 miles. In clear weatlicr the
high peaks of Las Trcs Virgenes arc plainly visible.

San Ignacio, or Ballenas liUgoon, was first seen in 1857 by Capt. Pool, of
the whaling barque Sarah JVarren, and in 1850 a whaling licet first entered it.
The raaiu branch of the lagoon is '2 miles wide at its mouth ; running North
fur 3 miles, it then turns a little to the West, and doubles its width C miles
from tlie bar. A small branch, making from the South part of the eutruuce,
and taking a more easterly course, runs through a low Hat country.

Near the head of this sheet of water are two islands, not over 2 miles iu
length, and I mile in width. Both are very low. The upper island, on its
highest part, has a growth of trees and low bushes, which gives it a pleasant
contrast with the surrounding country. The southern island is quite barren ;
flocks of grey gulls, pelicans, and cormorants, literally covered its shell beaches.
Around the shores large numbers of huge turtle lay sleeping, and shoals of cow-
fish and porpoises played.

The face of the country, immediately in the vicinity of this inland water, on
cither hand, is low, quite level, and extremely barren. To the south-eastward
rises a long table-land, to the height of 1,000 ft. or more, and then comes a
wild mountain country as far as the rye can sec. To the N.E. there is a belt
of level land, which appears to extend through the peninsula to the Gulf of
California.

The native name of this lagoon is Susa Maria. In a northerly direction
from its head, distant 35 miles, rises a mountain, showing three swells of land
at its summit ; it is called San Ignacio, and at its foot, not far from the la-
goon, is the old mission bearing the same name. As you view this mountain
from the coast, a still higher elevation is seen, standing alone, with rounded
peak. A small village now occupies the site of the mission, and near it are
extensive cultivated tracts of fertile land.

At lOJ miles westward of San Ignacio Point is the entrance of another la-
goon, with a breaking shoal extending three-quarters of a mile off its mouth,
which only small vessels can cross. It extends about 8 miles to the northward,
and is from 3 to 8 miles wide. From hence the western shore of Ballenas Bay
trends S.W. by S. ^ S., 9 miles, to Abreojos Point.

Point Abreojos (" Open-your-eyes "), so named from the dangers lying off
it, is low and sandy on the surface, but a reef extends a short distance South
of it, and close to its eastern side are numnrous detached rocks. It is higli
water here, on full and change, at l)'' ; the tide rises about 5 ft. There is good
auchurage in futhoms, suud, protected from the prevailing winds, between

Abrco

wJiero

nnchor;

mile S.

SVeJI yy

The I
and pi'oi
foot of a

separatee
m'ood Jan,

>vliaJcs.

^V. by S.
"lile soutli
of it, with
J^'orth and
"wash at lo
of 5 fathomi
Between ,
coast is low
feet high, wi
ing the shore
tnnce at sea,
from Abreoj,
"■egular, and
''ordered for
tliemouthofj
point. At 2

'^"ft Ifi/)oli/\

■•ocky point, ba]

southward of it

^'». 1,227 ft. jl

Ji'lentation of t|

^ '0 7 fathoms,

Asuncion I'oti

«H. bluff poir

tremity. a reeA

some large detac]

'lie point of the .

^ '« ' fathoms, cl

Asuncion IslaJ

^'"'"t. is thrce-qu

""■saudstoBc, and

1 i

ABREOJOS POINT— ASUN'CION ISLAND.

180

Abrcojos Point and the next point to the N.E., half n mile ofi" the sandy hoach,
where boats may easily land in moderate weather. Vessels .-ipproaehing this
anchorage should give a wide berth to a rocky patch of 4 fatlioms, lying 1}
mile S.E. by S. ^ S. from Abreojos Point, with 5 to 8 fathoms between; the
svell was observed to break occasionally in this vicinity.

The plains around Abreojos Point are inhabited by large numbers of coyotes
and prong-horned antelopes. There is a jiond of bad brackish water at the
foot of a barren hill, 277 ft. high, 3 miles N. J W. from the point; this hill is
separated from a conspicuous range of table-land, COO ft. high, and forms a
good landmark. The shores near the point arc strewn with the bones of
whales.

Whale Rock, about 2 J cables long and 1 ft. above high water, lies 4 miles
W. by S. ^ S. from Abreojos I'oint. A breaking reef extends ji quarter of a
mile south-eastward of it, and a dangeroi's reef lies half a mile .south-westward
of it, with 5 to 10 fathoms between; the latter reef is about 7 cables long
North and South, and one-third of a mile wide, many of the rocks being
awash at low water, and the sea breaks heavily over them. 'J'herc is a depth
of 5 fathoms in the passage, IJ mile wide, between AVhale Pock and the land.

Between Abreojos Point and Asuncion Point, 47 miles to the W.N.W., the
coast is low and sandy, rising gradually to hills and table-lands, GOO to 1,000
feet high, with high and broken mountains in the distance. The beach front-
ing the shore line, being composed of white sand, is seen a considerable dis-
tance at sea, contrasting with the brown clay cliirs and banks. For 1 1 miles
from Abrcojos Point the soundings are Irregular, but beyond this they arc
regular, and the water deep. About 8 miles from the point the coast Is
bordered for 2 miles by a shoal reaching over 1 mile off, and here Is probably
the mouth of a lagoon which extends parallel with the coast from near the
point. At 2 miles farther on another shoal extends about half a mile off.

San HipoUto Point, 27^ miles W.X.W. from Abreojos Point, Is a low, black,
rocky point, backed by sand-hills ; a breaking reef extends nearly half a v.\i\q
southward of It. At 5^- miles North of it Is a remarkable table-shaped moim-
taiii, 1,227 ft. high. In the open bay, named San Illpolito, formed by the
Indentation of the coast-linc eastward of the point, there is good anchorage In
5 to 7 fathoms, sand, under the lee of the point, and half a mile off shore.

Asuncion Point, 19 miles W. by N. i N. from San Illpolito Point, Is a low,
sharp, bluff point, with a conical mound, about "to ft. high, at its outer ex-
tremity. A reef extends a short distance off It, and the sea breaks heavily on
some large detached rocks on either side of it. In Asuncion Bay, eastward of
the point of the same name, there is gtiod anchorage, In moderate weather, in
5 to 7 fathoms, close to the shore, under the lee of the point.

Astincion Island, about three-quarters of a mile southward of Asuncioa
I'oiiit, Is three-quarters of a mile long, and lesB than 2J cables wide. It Is
of suudstonc, and entirely barren, aul waa the resort of vast herds of sea

ffT'

wi¥:\.

> ..t

190

LOV.'ER CALIFORNIA.

U ,i.:,i

' I'^iJi';

'■ I

,.i

/■?

animals; sonic hills near Its southern end arc 100 ft. high. It is surrounded
by rocks and kelp, and from its northern end a breaking reef of rocks, many
above water, and two of largo size, extends 3 cables northward and half a mile
westward. A solitary rock, awash at low water, lies about midway between
the island and the point, and between this rock and the point is a clear passage,
a quarter of a mile wide, througli which 4 to 6 fathoms may be carried by
keeping about 1^ cable off the point; but it should only be done in cases of
emergency. The tide rises about 5 ft.

Between Asuncion Point and San Roque Point, 7} miles to W. by N., the
coast forms the open bay of San Roque, the shore of which is generally bluff,
with occasional beaches fronting it. San Roque Point is a light- coloured
bluff, 30 to 50 ft. high, backed by a hill 543 ft. high ; IG fathoms water is found
within half a cable of it.

San Roque Island, 2\ miles E. by S. 2- S. from San Roque Point, is a rugged
rock 40 ft. high, 1 mile long East and West. A breaking reef extends a
quarter of a mile from its eastc end, and half a mile V.. by N. from the ex-
tremity of the reef is a patch oi .>)cks, with 11 fathoms between. A 3-fathoms
shoal lies half-way between these rocks and the shore, and heavy breakers ex-
tend nearly a mile off the land North of the isl. id. The channel between
should only be used by boats or very small vessels.

San Pablo Bay is an indentation, l.J- mile deep, between San Eoque Point
and San Pablo Point, about 3 miles to the N. W. It affords good anchorage in
10 to 15 fathoms, about three-quarters of a mile from the shore. At its head
is a sandy beach, ith steep bluffs on cither side. San Pablo Point is a dark,
slate-coloured bluff, with a prominent hill 760 ft. high. A reef extends about
half a mile southward of it. A few miles in the interior arc extensive table-
lands, 1,000 to 2,000 ft. high, behind which is a remarkable range of peaks,
2,000 to 3,000 ft. high, and of variegated colours, probably the Sierra Pinlada
of Sebastian Viscaino.

Between San Pablo Point and Morro Hermoso, 24 miles to N.W. ^ W., the
coast forms the open bay of San Cristobal, the shores of which consist princi-
pally of bluffs and sand cliffs, 50 to 100 ft. high. There is a deep arroyo nt 3
miles North of San Pablo Point, and at the head of the bay is a shingle and
sand beach, 4 miles in extent. In the northern part of the bay there are a few
large rocks near the shore.

Morro Ilcrnwso is a bare, rocky cliff, rising abruptly to a hill, 900 ft. high;
the coast N.W. of it consists of steep bluffs, 50 to 100 ft. high, backed by high
hills, and at 6 miles from it is a small open bay, eastword of Thurloe Head,
M'hcre there is anchorage in 6 to 7 fathoms, protected from the prevailing
winds. Thurloe Head is a bold, rocky point, with a reef extending a short
distance southward of it ; from hence the coast trends 2 J miles N.W. ^ W. to
Cape Tortolo, and is a long irregular cliff, high, rocky, and steep. Kelp ex-
tends a quarter of a mile off it.

Ski

horboi

Capo 1

H mile

gravel 1

formcrlj

early Sj

in the V

found,

Tho bn

fe'ivivelly I

w island i

peninsula

the bay, a

The anclio]

I'lit S.W. M

wountainou

J.'it, 21= 40' ,

"fox tremor

the sliorcs ;

^oiiff, and oft

f«i»s Tort^

""'1 from it a I

" '■oe'v-, 2 ft. a

IJt'twcen the o

!» 1'; i

if' U^iw

SAN MliTOLOME' HAY
BAN BABTOLOME' BAY ,.11.^- ^^^

i»rbour between San Dico and M T'^' ^"^ ''>' ^^'" ^^''"'ors. is the bo,.
C^Pe ...Co and Kelp P^t 1^'^^^: "^ ^'^ ^ ^^^^ ^^ « "
'* »»» ^« '" cliameter. The northern nd "^ ' '""''" ^'"^^^ '* " about
gravel beaches, but the western J ""''"^ ''''"'''^^ "••° low shinL-lo „

^orn^e,^ .ueh resorted to ^ Ta wj^r^^ °^ ''^^^^ ^^"^«- Th ""ht"
-ry Spanish navigators reported ^117^"°" *'"'' °^' ""'^ ™fi"ing' ^^^^
in the vicinity, pisi, ...rfi existence of large beds of « T,

'■'• 2' -10 N., long. ,n- 41- 20- w ,," , °""«"-" ''Md of Iho bay i, .•„

K ticcn the outer rock md the e.™c ■ V /, ""' "" *™ kr-e reel.

C" ft. high. A-./^ p^ . . J-^t , and the one nearest the eann

-nded by .elp. '^ ^^' ^"K". with .any outlying trr

ilie entrance to San Bartolonio lU ■

-. » ".0 0.... guide need: ':.;;::""• *° •-« '^^ ;! ed ^ ■'? :•

A. C ,„i,e. ^v. ly\ '° ;, ^-^-.t ' '0 » ft. " "''■■'' "■'"". ="

- niies, to ban Eugonio Point anrl . ■ '^'^'^^^ trends i\ W j at

.»riw.™' --'■^™°- »-, oL L ^^'4 "w",f .;'"" '°

"'"""'^•°""»'-»'»'-vhiehf„r,„..,,

f If "'41

Si-'"' % W Al

" 1 ■";*- ♦ '.Jir

N I i .

, I ' » '

102

LOWER CALIFORNIA.

•hur)

':^-^!

4 ■■

H !

South shore of Sobnstian Viscnino Uny, is a low, dark, rocky projection, 8\ir.
rouudod by a roc>f, cxteiKlinj; about a cjuartcr of a mile off. About half a mile
eastward of the point is a little cove, where there is a whaling station.

Natividad Island, about 4 miles West of San I'lugenio Point, is extremely
barren, neither shrub nor tree being found on it ; it is resorted to by large
numbers of sea-fowl as a breeding place. It is about 3 J miles long W.N.W.
and K.S.K.,from a half to 1 mile wide, rising to 502 ft. in height. Its shores
are mostly steei) and rocky, with detached rocks and kelp ; at the S.l'". end is
a sand beach. Some earj^oes of guano Imve been taken from Mtiria liork, 15
feet high, half a mile off the N.W. jjoint, and eonneeled willi it by a reef.
Several reefs extend oil' the N.K. side of the island, and about '2 cables West
of the southern point is Sail Hock, •!() ft. high, with a short reef extending
south-eastward of it, on which the sea only breaks at long intervals. A reef
extends about a (juarter of a mile eastward of the southern point, and ou ita
extremity is a llat-tojiped rock, about 25 ft. high, named Flat Hock,

Jhuri/ Channel, between San Eugcnio Point and Natividud Island, has
much foul ground and irregular soundings ou the island side. At a mile East
of Flat Koek is a rocky iJ-fathoms shoal, half a mile in diameter, over which
the sea only breaks at long intervals in fine weather. For IJ mile eastward
of this, numerous patches of (5 to 7 fathoms exist, but on the San Eugenio side
there is a clear ])assage, a mile wide, through which 17 to 20 fathoms may bo
carried by keeping about 1 J mile oil' shore, the kelp plainly marking the channel.
CERROS ISLAND, or Cedros, forming the western side of Sebastian Vis-
caino IJay, is sejjarated from Natividad Island by KcUctt Channel, 7^ miles
wide, deep, and clear. Ccrros is 21] miles long N. by W. and S. by K., its
width varying from 1) miles near the southern eiul to Smiles near the northern.
The southern part of the island is generally barren, but the northern portion
is comparatively fertile, the crests and western slopes of the mountains being
covered with cedars and pines. Goats and rabbits are plentiful, and there is
said to bo a few deer ; seals, 8ic., abound ou the shores. The island is said to
be rich in minerals.

It is an island of mountains throughout its whole extent, being a mass of
high, abrupt peaks, the highest of which is 3,955 ft. above the level of the sea,
and may be distinctly seen, in clear weather, fiO miles. On a near approach,
the sombre, barren appearance of all brought to view is anything but inviting.
Many of the southern slopes present a dark red hue, interspersed with high
variegated cliffs, which give a little change to the otherwise dull scene. On
landing, one is at once fully sensible of the extremely dry atmosphere prevail-
ing ; still there must be, occasionally, heavy rains, producing mountain torrents.
Morro Rcdondo Point, the S.E. extremity of Cedros Island, is n rocky cliff,
30 ft. high, backed by a low hill, with numerous rocks southward and west-
ward of it. The officers of the U.S.S. Nurragansctt made their observatiou
spot, on a low poinc half a mile to the northward, to be in lat. 28" 1' 48.7' N.,

long, n

springs

good an(

l^fnch, ai

chorago

Rrnss, lyi;

^'orthwar

of rocky I

the land r;

On the ;

Pt^'"* make

vaihng coai

likewise in

water may ]

of excellent

^ I'U-ge supj)

rushes at th

"ff" this sprin

•iiit a much I

shingle beach

A vessel ea

the island, in

ri'gularity of t

''I'pt in mind i

to May the wi

a strong " nort

strong gales in

Scammon.

'i'lie North p
'••irge outlying ,
si'ine cedar tree
^\'cst coast is si
and extend farti
lineofclifil, to
wf extends 2 n
/'W, half a mil,
''•■'saltic headlan
''f«vysurfonth(
''I'lp along the S.

I'lie southern
"fCapeSanAug
■^i'dtcrcd from th

CEEROS IST.AND.

198

long, ll.")" ir 2.0" W. Hero it is high water, on full and chnngo, nt O*" lO";
springs rise 7 to 9 ft. To the northward of this the coast recedes, forming a
good anchorage in 7 to 10 fathoms, sand, within a quarter of a niiie of tho
beach, as the water deepens suddenly. About 4 miles northward of the an-
chorage is a good watering-place, easily recognisid by a patch of t4ill, rank
grass, lying behind a solitary sand liench. The water is deep close to the shore.
Northward of the watering-place the ea.stern side of the island is a succession
of rocky bluffs and ravines, with short stretches of gravel beach, behind which
the land rises abruptly to tho mountains.

On the N.E. side, about 3 miles from the extreme North end, a low sandy
po"'"* makes out ; to the southward of this is good anchorage during tho pre-
vailing coast winds. In a ravine near it is a small stream of fresh water ; and
likewise in several of the valleys leading from the shore line to the southward,
water may be found within a mile of tho beach. At one of these places it ia
of excellent (juality. The only practicable place, however, for a ship to obtain
a large supply is on the S.V,. side, where there is a spring running among
rushes at the foot of a high peak close to the shore. Ancliorage may be had
off this spring, within 2 cables' lengths of the shore, in 20 fathoms of water ;
but a much better place for a ship to lie is 2 miles farther South, off a low
shingle beach.

A vessel cim always find shelter from tho N.W. winds on the South side of
the island, in depths varying from 6 to 25 fathoms ; these winds blow with the
regularity of a '* trade,'" from May to October, and the only precaution to be
kept in mind in choosing an anchorage is to avoid fixed kelp. From October
to May the winds are generally light and the weather delightful. Occasionally
a strong " norther," or a light S.K. gale, blows the first part of tho winter, and
strong gales from the N.W. again set in about the Ist of May. — Capt. C. M.
Scammon.

The North point of Cerros Island is formed by broken bluffs, with many
large outlying rocks. At the back of it is a sharp peak, 1,701 ft. high, with
some cedar trees on the summit. For 8 miles from the northern point the
West coast is similar to the eastern, but the rocks off it are more numerous,
and extend farther off; thence it curves round to the S.W., and is an unbroken
lino of cliffs to a point 2.J miles North of Cape San A^ugustin, where u rocky
reef extends 2 miles off to the N.W., with a conspicuous rock, named /itil
iioc/!:, half a mile from the N.W. extremity. Cape San Augustin is a bohl
basaltic headland, the S.W. extremity of the island. There is generally a
heavy surf on the western side of the island, and there are extensive fields of
ki'lp along the S.W. part.

The southern coast is similar to the eastern. South Bay, 2 miles eastward
of Cape San Augustin, affords anchorage in about 7 fathoms, close to the shore,
sheltered from the prevailing winds, but open to southerly gales, which some-
yurt/i I'acijic. 2 v

< i

", I \

■ . . ■ \- .. . . . - ■ V| ■%'

' i" ■'"■ v^-^ . > I ■ r i,*^tl1

.■■<

-- Ji.

I';' ' ill

<1. '•'.

; I,

194

LOWER CALIFORNIA.

time,^ occur during the early part of winter ; rocks extend half a mile off the
N.W. side. I'tttchcs of 6 to 10 fatlioms, rock, nro found 3 miles southward of
the coast, between the eastern limit of South Bay and Morro Redondo Point.

San Benito Iilandi arc a group of three barren islands, surrounded by
outlying rocks and kelp, the easternmost of which lies 17^ ttiilos S.W. by
W. i W. from the North point of Cerros Island. The group extends about
4 miles East and West, and IJ > lile North and South, the summit of the
western island being in lut. 28° 18' 8" N., long. 115" 36' 10" W. The narrow
passages between them can only be used by boats. The seal and the sra-
elephant are the only animals found upon them ; they are destitute of wood
and fresh water.

The eastern island is about 500 ft. high, but the middle one is small and
low; the western one is the largest andhighe&t. being 1| mile long, and three-
quarters of a mile wide, with a mound in the centre 650 ft. high. There is
anchorage in 10 fathoms, jand, a little West of the ''.E. point, with the mound
bearing N.W., and the North end of the eastern island open of the S.E. point,
bearing N.E. Just eastward of the point is a large red rock, behind which is
a small shingle beach, on which a landing-place may be found. In 1853 the
remains of what wa? supposed to be a Japanese junk were found on the
S.W. end.

Pinnacle Hocks, about three-quarters of a mile West of the S.W. point of
the large island, are two small rocks with only 6 ft. water over them, 80 ft.
apart N.E. and S.W. The sea breaks on them in all weathers.

SAN SEBASTIAN ViSCAINO BAY,* an extensive indentation of the
coast, lies within Cerros Island ; it is about 60 miles in diameter, and within
its limiia are several smaller bays and anchorages. Whales were formerly
numeroui' heiO at certain seasons ; sharks are found in the shoaler waters, and
other varieties of fish are plentiful. For - few miles eastward of False Point,
the southern sh )re of the bay consists of high bluffs, and the mountains ap-
proach the coast, but from thence its southern and eastern coasts are for the
most part low and sandy, with extensive marshes, high mountains being visible
far in the interior.

At 1 J mile N.E. f E. of San Eugenio Point (page 191) is False Point, steep
and rocky, half a mile northward of which is a dangerous oval reef, three-
quarters of a mile long, and surrounded with kelp, with a rock awash near its
centre, on which the sea breaks heavily. Chester Islets, 18 ft. high, are two
rocks covered with guano, and surrounded with kelp ; the westernmost lies

* Sebastian Viscaino, from whom thia name is derived, was charged bv the Spanish
viceroy of Mexico, Don Guspar de Zuniga, Count de Monterey, to surTey these coasts. Ho
set Bail on thia commission from Acapulco, May 5th, 1602, with four veesel.s, and among
others discovered and named the Fort of Montemy, which remained the capital of this
country up to recent times.

half ami
The eQ8t«
to the eai
beach, til
when a sn
SoamnK
hay. Cap
bar, and tli
in Jt, with
's n branch
^V'hales wei
in 18.58, am
country is a
supplies, exc
or by sea. :
Shnta Clara 1
Extensive t
marked by wl
constantly chi
atten ^ng to
''"f h is :

o'-'i- , nigh
bt'ing found ah
During the sta,
I'leventing any
Black Warr:
from that of Sc
the bar in 1859,
'Vide, with shoa
'"g 13 ft. have c
Manaela Lag
Black Warrior L
miles wide, a nar
«'parating it from
entrance, and Lag
weather, except u
From ihe entrai
Md then suddenly
miles N.W. j \v.
anchorage in 3 to
I'tach about 2 mil
I-agoon Head,
H 475 ft. high,

J.'. : • I

SAN SEBASTIAN VISCAINO BAY

half a mile N.E. of F«l«e Pofn. . . J»«

The eastern islet lies two J!' T " """»" '•°^J< close off its V ,u •

to the eastward t le c ^ ' L , " """'^ '"'''- '° the K. Z 8 Z V'"'

^-H. till aho. . :;::'z:::::z::': ^"'""- -^''- o!r ix

'T ^»^*- «-«-; ^tatefthlt iLM'j'l^^^fP"' '"^°''" °P--? -to the
bar. and that it varies from 4 to 12 J, " " ^^'''' '' ""'es from Z

- 't wHh „,„,,,„^ ^^^^ bars solr " " "''''• '"'^''^ «- --^ '-Tsl

- raneh extending 8 mile. uthJarl^r' '' '"" ^^^^^^ ^^'"^ ^
^ st :T"'""^""*^--'^-tri ^0^ i« navigfr

Santa Clara Mountains. ""'^ ^^ "^^'^ the boulder-like peaks Jfth.

Extensive shoals make off f

-ked by white sand bluffs/aTtr^Tr;''"""""" ^«^-. -^-h is
onstanti, changing, and a Strang rtit s''h' " "^'^^ ^'^«- ^he bar

r T ^° .T- '' " -^^ t'hat : ssT drL " r "-•-^'^^ ^* ^^^-r

ord ' : 'f "^ '"■'^ -'^^. but probabT; 2 toTw '" '" ^^"'^^'^ ^'^^

ord.. ,„gh txdes. deepening with n to 4 , . ^'- ^""''^ be found at

be-ng found along the South fhor^ ^rhil 1 "' ' '"*'•""«' '^ ^-^^ obanHe
I^unng the stay of the iVWa^a„ jj ^f !f '° T *'^ '^''^ "^ 'he lagoon
l";ve"t.ng any examination. ' """ *^« ««- -«« breaking heavily on the ba^'
Biack Warrior laeoon th. .

'"y ^ "• b»ve crossed the bar. "^ ^''^ ""trance. Vessels draw

«;c:r:iX^t rr^nl:;:: ;r^ ^^ -es North of that of
-'- w.cle. a narrow strip of low sa^d be h " ' '"' '°"*'' ""'^ «bout 2
J-.ng it from the waLs of the b y "^Vr^""' ^'^'' -«" ^^"ol
-trance, and l.«s 5 ft. over it at low wat^r . "''""^ "''°"* » -^'e off the
-ather, except near high water. " ' *'^ ^^^ ^-''^^ breaks on it in fine

irom ;he entrance of Man..«io t

i-agoon Head, the Ca6o A'-.«ro of tho ij o

■ f s.>* ■'■-]•

i * *

Hir ,

I 4* .

* :.;-*J65iiBi.*»r*f¥4-*»>-«'si^j, ,<. .

iiil : IE'

■1.

1 ;

J: i*i',.

r;;?

190

LOWKU CALIFORNIA.

From lidgoon Head the coast trends 13 miles N. A K.. nnd then 9 miles
>',Vk". by W. to tlie Soiitli point of Snntn Uohidia ikiy. Near the head the
coast consists of bluifs about '200 ft. high, but from thence they doclino to a
licight of 50 to 100 ft. High hilk rise a few miles inland, and mountains arc
i.sible in the interior, the most conspicuous being Ilii/h Leaning Peak, to the
E.N.K. of the bay.

Santa liosiilia Bay is about 6 miles wide between its southern point and
Rosalia Point to N.W. 2 ^V^» affording good sheltered anchorage in 5 to 8
fathoms, sand. The best landing will be found on a shingle beach on the North
side of the bay. Kocky cliffs line the eastern shore, and off the southern low
point a dangerous reef extends half a mile southward, surrounded by kelp.
About 2 miles W. by N. of Rosalia Point is Elide Island, a. barren rock, about
40 ft. high, the coast between being composed of rocky bluffs, /iO to 75 ft.
high. J'liido Island is about 3 cables long, a favourite resort of seals and
birds, and is connected with the laud, half a mile distant, by a breaking saud-
spit. Vessels sometimes anchor on the S.E. side of it, but there is usually a
heavy swell.

For !i miles N.N.W. of IClide Island the coast consists of low sand beaches,
nnd then follow bold and rocky clifl's, aO ft. high, for 3^ miles \V, i \. to
Rocky Point. Rocky Point is a steep cliff, Ih ft. high, and at \^ mile north-
eastward of it is a conspicuous conical hill, I,(U)() ft. high. From hence to
iSlack Point, lOi miles to N.W. J^ N., the coast is composed of sand beaches,
with the exception of a steep, projecting, rocky j)oint midway between, with a
hill, 500 ft. high, rising close to it. Blavk Point, the southern limit of Playa
Maria IJ.iy, is a low, dark, rocky projection, backed by white sand.

Playa Maria Bay is formed between Hlack Point and Maria Point, 5.J
miles to AV. by N J N. Tiie bay is open but clear, and its shores are low,
sandy, and barren. At 2 miles inland from its head is a hill called the Ai/i/iic,
1,132 ft. high, and on the .shore of the northern part of the bay is what ('apt.
Kellett called Station Peak, 25ti ft. high. There is good anchorage in 6 or 7
fatlioms, sand, in the northern part of the bay, protected from the prevniling
wind. It is high water, on full and change, at 0'' 20"" ; springs rise 7 to i) ft.
Maria Point, the northern j)oint of Sebastian Viscaino Hay, is low and
rocky, with sand-hills rising 100 ft. high, n quarter of a mile northward of it.
For IJ mile N.W. i W. of it the coast is steep and rocky; it then becomes
low for aliout .'i miles to Cone I'oint, forming the shore of Falsa Hay, in the
northern part of which there is ancliorage in 1 to fathoms, pretty well pro-
tected from the prevailing winds. There is a wide arroyo at the bottom of
the bay. Cone Point is bteej) and rocky, with a reef extending a quarter of a
mile south wnrd of \t; just North of it is Red Cone, 200 ft. higii, appearing
like an island when urst seen from the northward.

At 10 J miles N.W. i W. of Cone J'oint is lUanco Point, the coast between
receding about 3 miles, forming Blanco Hay, the shores of svhich are a suc-

cession of!

tected 'ron

liigh, an'! i

between tli(

rounded by

At 33 mil

between bei

sand beaclie

one behind (

a "u'le olf sh(

tities of drift

Canoas Pc

I'y hitls 700 I

Rood weather

I'oint, in 5 to

about -1 ft. I-

San Antonio j

moderately hi<

of wliich Somh

liliiff Point, is

Mif Point,

mid between it,

l'"int, is a iurg

fathoms, sand aj

Sacramento
">3 miles S.W.
It is about a mil
largo rocks awal
'lie passage bet J
and also bctwee
f^hould be avoid]

San Geronir

less than one-tlij

s.ind nnd guanc.

'ire two lower or

lii^h, and they a\

lialf a mile off til

f»il, over .vhich

'''<-f":itlioms patcll

other shoal .spoff

There is anclj

Island, but thcrcl

SACRAMKNTO REEF— SAN OKHONIMO ISLAND.

to?

cession of bluff points and sand beaches. There is good ancborngc here, pro-
tected 'roni the prevailing wind. Blanco Voint is a sand cliff, about 50 ft.
high, and is the eastern of two points forming tlie northern limit of the bay;
between them there is a cove about a mile wide, and the western point is sur-
rounded by detached roeka.

At ;i.'3 miles N.W. by W. j W. of Blanco Point is Canoas Point, the coast
between being composed of sand bluffs and rocky points alternating with low
sand beaches. From seaward three distinct mountain ranges iire visible, rising
one behind the other. About llij miles northward of IManco Point, and half
a mile off shore, is a solitary rock, 20 ft. high, surrounded by kelp ; large quan-
tities of drift wood were found on the adjoining beach.

Canoas Point is a sharp, perpendicular, sand bluff, 224 ft. high, surrounded
by hills 700 to 1,200 ft. high, backed by mountains about 2,000 ft. high. In
good weather partially proteeted anchorage will be found under the lee of the
point, in .'> to 7 fathoms, sand, about half a mile from the shore ; the tide riies
about 4 ft. From hence the coast trends N.W. by W. J W., -'i2i miles, to
San Antonio Point, and consists of sand bluffs 50 to 100 ft. high, backed by
moderately high hills, and in some parts by table-lands 1,000 to 2,000 ft. high,
of which iSotnbrcro Peak, 1,908 ft. high, lying about 2^ miles northward of
lUuti" I'oint, is the most conspicuous.

Bluff Point, 13 miles N.W. by W. ^ W. of Canoas Point, is 100 ft. high,
and between it and a remarkable gorge .'5 miles southward of San Antonio
l'(>int, is a large field of kelp, extending about 5 miles oil shore ; a depth of 12
fiillioms, sand and rock, was found in it at 4 miles off shore.

Sacramento Reef, on which the P.M.S.S. Sacramento was lost in 187.3, lies
oj miles S.W. by W. \ W. from San Antonio I'oint, and is very dangerous.
It is about a mile in extent N.W. and S.K., and half a mile wide, with several
hu'ge rocks awash and above water, over which the sea constantly breaks. In
tlie passage between the reef and San (leronimo Island, ."? miles to N.W. by N.,
and also between them and the land, there are large dense masses of kelp, which
should be avoided if practicable.

San Geronimo Island is a barren roek, three-quarters of a mile long and
less than one-third of a mile wide, covered in many places with a mixture of
sand and guanc. Near the centre is a peak, 172 ft. high, northward of which
nil' two lower ones. Its shores consist of rocky beaches and clifl's, 10 to 20 ft.
\%\\, and they are sin-rouuded by outlying rocks and kelp, A reef extends
lialf a mile off the southern extremit} , with a rock above water on it.s outer
cnil, over .vliich the .sea breaks heavily. The II.S.S. Ilander found a rockv
.^'•fathoms patch about IJ mile northward of the island, and it is j)ossible that
I'tlicr shoal spots may exist.

There is anchorage in about 7 fathoms, sand, eastward of Sun Oeronimo
Island, but there is usually an uucomfortable swell ; the tides rise about 5 ft»

■:"■!>■

19c

LOWER CALIFORNIA.

■ Ilk

On the S.E. side, at the base of the highest peak, there is a good landing-place
on a small shingle beach.

From San Antonio Point to Biija Point, 13 miles to N.W. ^ N., the coast
consist of sand bluffs, 50 to 100 ft, high. JJaJa Point is a sand cliff, about
30 ft. high, off which a reef extend.s a short distance southward, surrounded
by kelp. Eastward of Baja Point is Rosario Btn/, so named from the old
mission of El Rosario, situated in a fertile valley, about 1 1 miles to N.E. by E.
of San Antonio Point. There is safe and sheltered anchorage in the bay in
5 to 6 fiithoms, sand. It is stated that the country, at the head of the bay
near Buja Point, is fertile, and that supplies of vegetables, fresh beef, and
water may be obtained there.

At O.J miles northward of Baja Point is a ranch, lying in a smaH indentation
of the coast, between a dark hill, 409 ft. high, and an arroyo. For about
22 miies \. by W. of Baja Point, the coast consists of alternating sand bluffs
and dufk-coloured cliffs, gradually decreasing in height to the point. To the
jN.W, of this the shore is a low sand beach, us far as the entrance of the
lagoon North of Port San Queutin, forming San Quentin Bay. The water is
shoal for several miles off shore, and a long swell usually rolls in, making it
an uncomfortable anchorage.

PORT SAN UUENTIN is the name applied or chosen by Sir Edward
Belcher for the harbour, which, under several Spanish and English charts, is
called the Bay of San Francisco. This is much prciVriible, as the triple
repetition of the latter name on this coast, applied by the Spaniards in honour
of their patron saint, peculiarly so regarded by the navigators in the Pacific,
has led to confusion, It is a small and perfectly secure anchorage, protected
on every side, at the N.W. end of San Quentin Bay. The adjHcent country is
low and sandy, and no fresh water can be found near the coast.

" Port San Quentin does not afford anything equal to San Diego, but it is
more secure when within. The whole coaist is dreary, being either sand-hills
or volcanic mountains, five of which, very remarkably placed, caused one of
the early navigators to call it the Bp} of Five lliiis. It is the B.iy of the
Virgins of the former, and Port San Quentin of the later Spanish surveyors,*
As it appears engraved on an extensive scale under the latter name, I have
preferred that name for it." — Sir Kdtvard llelcher.

Cape San Quentin (or Viryenes), 2'2 miles N.W, by N. from Baja I'oint, is
the S.E, extremity of a peninsula forming the western side of the bay, pon,
and lagoon of San Quentin ; Mount Mazo. about a mile north-westward of it, is
210 ft, high. About two-thirds of a mile N.E. by N. i N. of it is KnIraJa
Point, the eastern point of the peninsula, a low and rocky point which shoulu

• The North promontory is called, by Vancouver, Point Five Hununoc»N. In liis cliui i
the bay to the North of Point Zuniga, the North end of the promontory, and 8 iniltis
KiK. W. of Cape San Quentin, is oallod the Dbj- de los Virg<'nes.

not be i

is a lov

from the

latter is

ward cf

'i'he bi

low wate

sending j

liable to

off the SOI

N.W. of

■^'ortb, not

by W. I ^

S ^\'. by M

fithonis, sa

5 ft. The I

in lat. 30= 2

About 5 c

Quentin, at

said to be i

ported.

Near the c
liills before n
forming a pro
who says that
land affords.
lor a series of
"'Hi the others
J'rora Capo
^fiicra Point,
'^'«' and rocky
"liich the sea '
^arJofthepoi
'iie coast is a lo

^-'inizas or San

sihI ubout 2.J n

''""vcr's chart.

between. The {■

•oflvs and kcip, a

"•"torn M^h is f;,

"•'te in low ,a..d3

^"•0 r(.'markable p

PORT SAN QUENTIN— SAN MARTIN ISLAND.

199

not be approached from the southward within a quarter of a mile ; the coast
is a low and rocky beach for about oncthird of a mile from the cape, and
from thence to Entrada Point the beach is sandy. At half a mile N.W. of the
latter is Sextant Point, low and sandy, with shoal water between ; and north-
ward of this is the anchorage.

The bar lies eastward of Entrada Point, and has about 2J fathoms on it at
low water. Vessels drawing over 12 ft. should not attempt to enter without
sending a boat to examine the channel, which is narrow and tortuous, and
liable to change with every southerly gale. To enter keep about half a mile
off the southern shore of the peninsula until Rocky Point, nearly IJ mile to
N.W. of Entrada Point, is open eastward of Sextant Point, when haul up to
North, not getting into less than 3^ fathoms ; when Rocky Point bears N.W.
by W. I W. steer for it until past Sextant P'unt, and Mount Mazo bears
S.W. by W., when haul up to W. J S., and anchor anywhere in 4J to 5^
fathoms, sand. It is high water, on full and change, at 8"" 30" ; the tide rises
5 ft. The United States sur%'eyors place the observation spot on Sextiint Point
in lat. 30" 22' 15" N., long. 115^ 59' 7" W.

About 5 or 6 miles north-eastward of the anchorage is the village of San
Quentin, at the foot of some hills, and near some salt-ponds, to which there is
said to be a channel through the la goo:'. A small quantity of salt is ex-
ported.

Near the coast, northward of the bay and lagoon, are the five remarkable
hills before mentioned, rising from a tract of very low and nearly level laiid,
forming a projecting promontory, named Point Five Hummocks by Vancouvcf.
who says that it is as conspicuous and remarkable as any projecting point the
land affords. In coming down the coast from the northward, he had taken it
lor a series of detached islands. The soiith-westernmost hill is 324 ft. high,
and the others range from 500 to 1,000 ft. in height. 's

From Cape San Quentin the coast trends about half a mile wcstw.ard to
Afucra Point, and then nearly a mile north-westward to lieef Point, and is
low and rocky, with numerous projecting points and outlying rocks, over
which the sea breaks heavily. A reef extends about a quarter of a mile west-
ward of the point. From hence to South-west Hill, about IJ miles farther on,
tiie coast is a low sand beach, backed by sand-hills, 100 to l.JO ft. high.

San Martin Island, the Viryenes of Sir E. Belcher, and also known as
Cenizas or San Hilario, lies about 9 miles N.W. by W. of Cape San Quentin,
and ubout 2\ miles off that part of the coast named Point Zuniya on Yan-
conver's chart, there being a depth of 10 to 15 fathoms in the channel
between. The island is about IJ mile in diameter, surrounded by detached
rocks and kelp, and resorted to by great numbers of seals and sea-fowl. Its
western side is formed of steep high cliffs, but its N.PL and S.I*;. sides termi-
naif in low sa'>dy land, extendin;^ toward the continent. Near the centre are
iwo remarkable peaks, the westernmost of which is an e.xlinct volcano, 4'J7 ft.

iSaNI

iilM -A J'

• I J' p.

ekl, J

200

L0W1':R CALIFORNIA.

high. It is quite harren, only producing the prickly pear, and a few stunted
bushes.

On the S.E. side of the island there is good anchorage, off the shallow
entrance to u small lagoon ; vessels can anclior anywhere off the N.E. side.
The best place to anchor in is Ilassler Cove, a snug little bight on the eastern
side, protected from all winds but the North ; anchor in 7 to 9 fathoms, with
the northern end of the boulders forming a breakwater, on the East side of the
cove, bearing E. by S. J S.

Jien liock, with 9 to 12 ft. water over it, and on which the sea only breaks
occasionally in moderate weather, lies 2| miles South of the East end of San
Martin Island, and 4 J miles from the land, with Mount Ceniza, 510 ft. high,
bearing V.. by N. j N., and just open southward of South-west Hill. There is
no kelp around it.

Between Reef Point and Cape Colnett, .38 miles to N.W. J N., there is a
moderate dej)tli of water near the shore, which appears to be free from out-
lying dangers. From near South-west liill the coast consists of bold rocky
cliffs for about 2 miles northward, succeed by a low sand beach IJ mile in
extent. Then perpendicular, dark, rocky cliffs, 150 to 200 ft. high, extend
for IJ mile northward, abreast of San Martin Island.

Between San Martin Island and Caj)e Colnett the coast forms a slight in-
dentation, known as the bay of «Sflrt Jiumoti or I)e las Viryrnes, the coast con-
sisting of sand hills from 25 to 100 ft. high. About 9 miles northward of Sau
Martin Island, fields of kelp extend 3 or 1 miles from the shore, as far as the
anchorage in Colnett Bay.

CAPE COLNETT is a remarkable headland, semi-circular in form, with
])erpendicular, dark cliffs, 100 to 350 ft. high, rising from a base of light sand-
stone. On its southern side, formed by the coast trending 2^ miles to the
N.E., is Colnett Buy, where good anchorage may be found in to 9 fathoms,
sand, abreast of a remarkable gorge. The best landing is at its head.

Cape Colnett was thus named by Vancouver, who says : — " This promontory
bore a very singular character as we passed. The cliffs composing it are,
about the middle, between their summit and the water side, divided horizon-
tally nearly into two etjual parts, and formed of different materials ; the
lower part seemed to consist of sand or clay, of a very smooth surface, and
light colour. The upper part was evidently of a rocky substance, with a very
uneven surface, and of a dark colour. This seemed to be again divided into
narrow columns by vertical strata. These apparent divisions, as well horizon-
tally as vertically, existed with great uniformity all round the promontory."

The coast between Cape Colnett and Santo Tomas Point, 40 miles to
N.W. J N., recedes considerably, and for 10 miles northward of th(> cape has
the same cliffy character ; from thence it consists of a succession of broken
bluffs and low beaches, with no known outlying dangers. A few miles inliuul
the coast range attains an elevation of 1 ,500 to 2,000 ft. About 5 miles from

the CO
now n
Jos6 P

Sant

the hfJL
At 1 mi
^olednd

'''■I'P, an(

clear of t

M half

t'le eastw)

fathoms, 6

the biyht

'tw rocks t

soon as Sol

ofami'leof

^^<'rra,janse
used as a w)
t''« tide rises
About 16 1
"le old niissi,
fnifts. A riv
c<'a.st; fl,,,.,^,^
•I'lthoiag,. to
a'Kl tJiwi it iA
'if t ween Sai|
f'c coast is i„\,
V»"i rocks.
f"ni,ii,fr the .S. .
«'"^ut three-,ju,l
^odos SantoJ
'""' '^'''l'. with J
•^^^^■dW.ofl]
""'''. "'id 37.J ft]

'■""' '■'■"»• 30 to c)
*'""'. in the N.K.f

^odos Santos"
'"■'="'••»• iorm to ,
'•"""*'%. IVu
,"'"' '"'■■'«'■. H m
'"^"'K the beach.

^'^"■'"Hthoreis

SANTO TOMAS POTVT t^^

V>t until a s„„|i „„j ^ 1. »""<i8. 1„ „a„t ;,

f™ rocks at it, .outhera ,„„1 • "*'■'' "f 'he inner „„,•„, „

About 16 iniloo A 1 " " >

° iiuies lioin tlie coast ;« f», -n

>-^: ••ock. /.„,.,, „, ^,;.^^^^ - -P water close-to. and nu.neCs tt '

■"- th..ee-,uartc.r,sofa:„i,eN.w"f "■'^' "'^^ "^ ^'^^ ^^''l.e extendi J
Todos Santos Islands are two l,. ,

»u* ».h a .« c„an„j;;t ::;,::f ■«™™.w ^^ ■"-'.-, ,„,a

, «

* 1

i' i> »

^' •; .•

i.
I '

D >'

II /'WM

; !. .'I

lit

'I-

1:!

'm'^'

202

LOWKU CALIFORNIA.

in a Htpop liill, .170 ft. liif?)!, nnd caHtward of it tliere is a «nug nnchornRc in
.3 to 6 fiitlioriiH, sand, slicltoied from all but H.W. winds. It in high wiiter, on
full and change, at alioiit !»'' ; the tide riHO« about ■! feet.

The coast northward of Todos los Santos May consists of high, stccj), rooky
clifFs, ri.sing abruptly from the soa, and comj)osing a craggy, mountainous
country, extending in a N.W. by N. direction for about 10 leagues to Point
San Miguul, when it assumes a more northerly direction, or N. by VV. J W.,
for 6 leagues. Tho shores still continue to be of steep rocky cliffs, which in
general rise, though not very abrujitly, to a very hilly country, remarkable for
three conspicuous mountains, entirely detacht^d from one another, rising in
(piick ascent at a littlo distance from the shore, on a nearly plain and even
Hurfacc. The northernmost of these presented the appearance of a table in all
directions from tlie ocean ; the middle one terminated in a shar]) peak ; and
the southernmost in an irregular form. 'I'he centre one of these remarkable
mountains lies from Port San Diego, S.K. by S., distant 'J leagues, and, at a
distance, may serve to point out that port. They were called the Tables, or
Mtxus do Jnun (iomez. — I'ancuuver.

At €>i miles W. by N. J N. from Knseiiada Point is ('ape San Miguel, the
coast between >)cing bold, with cliffs .OO to 100 ft. high. A large field of kelp
extends off this short'. Cape San Miyncl, the northern limit of Todos Santos
Hay, is a bold j)oint l.OO ft. lii(^h. From hence the coast trends N.W. I W.,
l((i miles, to Sal-si-pnedcx J'oint, which is low ami undefined. The coast
between, which is lined with kelp, consists of altertuite sand bluffs and rocky
cliff's about .'iO ft. high, the mountains rising to over 2,000 ft. a few miles
inland.

Oescanso Point is 10 miles N.W. i N. of Kal-si-puedes Point, the coast
between being generally sandy with an occasional rocky elifll', high hills rising
immediaUily behind the beach. Eastward of Deseanso Point is Descanso liny,
in the middle of which is Suyarloaf Jiork, LO ft. high, Ji^ miles S.K. by
F. J I'], from the point ; there is anchorag(! southward of it, and anywhere
along the sliore of the bay, in 8 to LO fathoms, sanil. At OJ miles F. by S. ^ H.
from the point is a small settlement, with some ctmspicuous sand-hills north-
ward of it ; small vessels fre(juently anchor near it.

I'Vom l)ese.'ins() Point the coast trends 13 miles N.W. I N. and then .'i miles
N, by W. j W. to the l)oun(lary numument placed on tho line betwei.'ii the
Mexican and United States territories, at tlu; South end of San Diego Hay.
'I'he shore is generally bluff, ."iO to HO ft. high, and a few miles inland is a ratit,'(!
of hills 400 ft. high, behind which rise the mountains. Tabic Monnlnin,
2,2.'J0 ft. high, about 7 miles N.W. by N. of Descanso I'oint, and Sharp I'cnk,
2,700 ft. cigh, a triple-peaked Tnountain a few miles southward of 'J'uhle
Mountain, are easily distinguished and form excellent landmarks. At •) miles
northward of Descanso J'oint are a ranch and an arroyo, off which are a I'tw
rocks.

Th(

and \*

fortes,

'"Vh, i

N. h^ I

mile 1,1

(ree«, tj

'lowers.

''"■ east\

sin.dJ (;,)

'■"^ n mill

7 eahJcH

pa'chcH of

On tfio '

"'id ha/fn

'■"'•k, ,00 ft.

'""•Iioragc i

'" coiiiinj

''''<'K'>, alihd

Thin -oiiij

slated, for th

California an

^'uvcys by C

The C0R0NAD08. ,..,...,,,.^, ^„ ^ . ''''''■
<'"ne.s. l,„t t,.„, ^,,_ -f.. "'■"'""• '" 1'102, aft..,. ,.,„ ,,. ,,'"'■' ""^ ^''<' '•oasl.

'■'.'■. bo,., [ :,: „ 77'-" '^^ C..I.,,,,. „, :,;' ■: ^'-n,..,. ,,..„.,

<>" tlu, West an.1 N W • i """itn.us

'•'"•k. --'O ft. ,.i,,l, L r, ^' '" '^" '^'"""«''- "....«, or ..,.,. ""■'•'•-'/-'".■t.T.M

"f,", Uie favour te icN,,,.. r ""''" ^W" masmx ,.r i

••'■"■•'-•'.gc iH «„ia to be loan., i.. . ' '''. """'"""« -a-Cepl.a.t^ ,^ '""■'-■

»t. U.S.S. Nurrayumiu.

ililk',' ■

, W'

i .

't »i .,' \jii

5 'i

201 )

i'llflll
ill

1 1

i-r

CHAPTER IV.

THE (X)AST OF CALIFORNIA.

In the commencement of the preceding chnpter, some remarks nre given which
may he taken in connection with the present suhject. Until May HO, 1818,
the countries respectively denominiUed Upper and Lower, or New ond OUl,
California, were under one dominion, suhject to the same laws, and under the
influence of the same social system ; intimately connected witli each other
morally, and having the same origin in n political sense, their histories may
be considered us identical. When, however, a new order of things heeaino
established, and Upper California was ceded to the dominion of the United
States, while the Lower Peninsula remained an appendage to Mexico, a won-
derful change took place in the importance of these two territories, not so
nnich arising from the change of masters as from that great event of the pre-
sent century — the discovery of gold in the biisiiw of the rivers falling into the
IJtty of Sun Francisco.

The first discovery or exploration of this part of the American coast was
made in 1540, under the orders of Don Antonio de Mend<)(,a, the viceroy of
Mexico, who despatched Francisco Vasquez Coronndo by land, and Francisco
Alar(,on by sea, in search of the supposed Strait of Aniun, which, it was said,
communicated with the Atlantic Ocean. AluF-(;on reached the ;?(ith parallel
(South of Monterey), hut was then forced to return. The same j)roject was
resumed in 1542 by Uodrigues do Cubrillo, a Portuguese in the Spanish ser-
vice, who reached the latitude of 44^^. His principal discovery was a projecting
l)oint in lat. 40J", to which he gave the name Cape Mendo(,'ino, by which u is
still known.

The Spaniards seem to have forgotten the.sc discoveries, till, in 1578, Sir
Francis Drake passed the Strait of Mugalhaens, then scarcely known, and
traversed the great ocean from South to North, reaching the N.W. coast of
America in lat. 48° North. He then coasted the shore <lownwards, and dis-
covered the harbour, now bearing his name, to the N.W. of San Francisco,
where he made some stay. He here formally took possession of the country
in the name of Elizabeth, Queen of England, imposing the name of New
Albion on it.

gavt
coloi
ferey
uuint
yivvrc
"li.Msio
t'leso I
"'iJ)ort,
'^''ocii'ty
'''iincis
^oreto,
"'•d soo
^'ontere
eountry,
In the f,
•'•■inuary,
Minds; bi
"'<• expJor
"'"'c-h was
^\'hen tJ
^V'^in, a frt
<)' their rcJi
•'"""nuiiitfe
siihseqiient
'i'lie resuJ
Wexfco was
-^'exico to t
'i'i« treaty t(
Among tlh
"''"''• the revJ
hVi,ti.,j„„t inj

''•"' obtainedf

''"'■''■fieation a\

"'■ '•onstruetj

''"'■■'"1 is U:il\

I""ticle.s oF,r,

'■'"•tlier s,>,„.j,j|

''""'", was f.„l|

''"''i"y(. who w^
"'' ^'"■'■< in therol

TIIK COAST OF CALIFOUNIA.

205

Tho cxpoditirtns of Drake, of (^avendinh in 1587, niul of Van Noort in 1598,
f;nve rise to conKidcrnblc jealousy with tho Spniiiardw, who di'tfrniincil to
culoiiizo thi'Ao con8tii. Accordingly, Don OaHpnr do Zimiga, Count de Mon-
terey, the viceroy of Mexico, deMpatched SobaMtian \'iscaino, in KiO'i, whoso
most northern important discovery was the harbour, which, in honour of tho
viceroy, ho named the Puerto de Monterey. The Spuniurds had foundml Heverid
missions on the Californinn Peninsula, u» before mentioned, nnd the ruiuH of
tlieso great establislunents still remain to testily us to their magnitude and
iiniiortance. On June 'J5tli, 17<')7, the FiUiperor Charles III. abolished the
Society of Jcsus (Jesuits) in Lower California, and gave their property to tho
Franci.scan order. Sixteen of the monks of this latter fraternity landed at
Loreto, in Lower California, in 1708, muler the Visitador, Don Josef de (lalvez;
and soon after they establis'icd the presidios and missions of San Carlos do
Monterey, and tho same at San Diego, in suelv a way as to protect all tho
country, adding, as an intermediate point, tho mission of San Uuenaventura.
In tho founding of these missions, for which Don Vincente Vila set sail in
January, 17(>9, tho vessels met with the greatest ditficulties from adverse
wiiuls ; but they were overcome. All this, however, did not make known to
the explorers the existence of tho finest harbour of all, that of San Francisco,
Mhich was subsequently discovered by a laud expedition, in 1770.

When the revolution in 1823 occurred, which separated California from Old
SjKiin, a fresh order of things was established, and the country was deprived
ol their religious establishments ; the consequent ruin of these once flourishing
cdinmuiiities naturally followed, nnd nothing can be more deplorable thou the
subsequent accounts of their downward progress.

The result of tho warfare between the United States and the republic of
Mexico was the cession by the latter of tho territories of California and Nevr
Mexico to the United States Government. The exchange of ratificatieu of
tliis treaty took place on May 30th, 18-18.

Among the settlers who had introduced themselves into Upper California,
utter the revolution, was Captain Suter, by birth a Swiss, and who had been a
liiniteuant in the Swiss guards during the time of Charles .\. of France, llo
luul obtained a large grant on the iSacraminto Uiver, and fixed iiis abode and
fortifieation at the head of the tide on the Sacramento, calling it New Helvetia.
lit" constructed a water-mill hero, and after one of the freshets to which tlio
htrcnm is liable, on examining the earth brought down by the waters, sonio
jiarticles of gold wore picked up, the discovery being almost purely accidental.
I'lirther search was made, and an inunenso (juantity of the prtH.'iou8 metal, no
ilcnibt, was collected.* Ere long this fact acquired publicity, and immediately

• It is BiiiBuliir tlmt tho oxiMtenoe of gold wiis nscertainpil by Sir Francis Drake, for
lliikliiyt, who WU8 witli liiiii, ciiiil, in lfiH9, "Tlioro is no purl of tho oartl\ horn to bo t.kon
up wliin ill thiTO is not a rciiHuimble (|<mntity uf (jolil iinil Bilvcr." \vl Ihia travtUcr's tule
unmiiiei uuhtodcil tor ucarly two uud u luilf cuuturiLii, till Juiu', I84H.

.'\

„t (,

i \

::'^m

( ''1

806

THE COAST OF CAMFOKMA.

H ; '">

almost the entire male population of California flocked to the gold region,
being the pioneers for the vast influx from every part of the Pacific and
neighbouring countries, increasing the population one hundredfold in the
course of a very few months. We cannot trace out here the jjrogress of the
gold movement, which received its first impetus in 1848. This very singular
chapter in the world's history has many illustrations in other places.

According to the report of Messrs. Wells, Fargo & Co., the total production
of gold and silver in the States, &c., West of the Missouri River, including
amounts from British Columbia and the West Coast of Mexico, amounted to
about £15,930,321 in 1883, of which silver represented £9,839,511. Up to
1882 the famous Corastock silver lode alone had paid about £24,247,667 in
dividends, since its discovery.

Besides its metallic treasures, much attention has lately been given to the
cultivation of all sorts of grain and fruit, for which the climate of California is
eminently suitable. Much of the grain and fruit is exported, there being largo
establishments at San Francisco for preserving the latter. It is estimated that
26,600,000 lbs. of fruits and vegctabKs were canned in the State in 1882. The
culture of hops and the vine is also largely on the increase.

The population of California, a very mixed one, by the census of lo30
amounted to 864,686, of which 767,266 were white, and 97,420 coloured, the
latter including 76,025 Chinese, an increase of 55 per cent, over the census
return of 1870. In 1860 it was 379,994, being an increase of 310^ per cent,
from 1850. Its area, according to the Beport of the U.S. Surveyor-General in
1879, is 167,031 English square miles.*

Immediately after its accession to the Unitr ^ States measures were taken by
the Government to commence a complete survey of the coast. Accordingly,
in the autumn of 1848 a surveying party was organised for field work, and the
schooner Ewing, under Lieutenant W. A. Bartlett, U.S.N., was despatched in
1 849, and subsequently a general reconnaissance of the wl.ole coast was com-
pleted. Commander James Alden published, in 1853, the results of this pre-
liminary examination, and in 1868, Assistant George Davidson drew up a
Directory for the Pacific Coast of the United States, and this useful work was
revised and republished by the same zealous officer in 1869. This latter
work has been followed hereafter, as it gives a complete hydrographical picture
of the coast.

The Winds. — The following remarks are extracted from Mr. Davidson's
work : — It has been advised to work close along shore to the northern ports
during the summer N.W. winds, and take the chances of land breezes to make
latitude, but the attempt will double the length of any voyage. Baffling light

' A\\

• Much information respecting the Railways, and various towns on the Pacific coast, will
bo found in " Crofutt's New Overland Tourist and Pacific Coast Guide," published at
Chiciigo.

! I*

TnE COAST OP n.r,

""'- off have strong N ly^ ^^ '''' '''''' ^^ilo vessels ,. . u

the current frequenl J o " "' ^°'-^°''<"r, alon^ Z "'""'' ''""^'•^J

e'o«eunderthe ::l'7„''»''-P- Wfr;. , f 7-^- '"''^ *''"*

^'- 'and North of ^ Pr l"" "'^""•^"- -« "eve/yet ht ' ""^* ^^^
in the region of thp « ^"'"'"«''«' ""d very rnrolv in/ a T '"'' ■* ^^'"^ o/f

-V over ,h» pe„i„,„,.^ mc.« .1"^ ''""8. in a *„«, f„„ *;".'» "'" «*«?■

'-avily. working round to the S W "'^ " '"'"'^^^^'^y ^^-m ,he S P .,
«W., weather thick rain '/•^^- ^^th a large and hr v ' ^^"'^"'S

^•W.. with an uglv er!r ""'^ ^'l"''"^ the wind no^ 'r''" ''"^'^' ^-"^ the
the San Franoise! aretr "^"""^ ^^T aouth-e 1^^"^"^'^ ^^-^ at
The sound ean be hZ' , ""'"^^ ^^^ ^"trance T '^' '^'^ ^''^aks upon

^ r-^oJelirat^^rorT/^^-"^^^^^^^^ ^ '"" ^^•^"-
and stronirlv a.^^ norther " will »« • ^

""o'> rrom one to fivp a., ' spring un nnA 1,1

weather. Win,]« , "^®' '«''th a dear hi , ^^""^ steadily

. «» "ko .»p. Of the™:! L' ' :r °"-" ^« ^-«. ^"'™°' '^

a. COAST ir™" ""'' "« '""'»e bow '■ "' '™'"' ™«i.io

ifel::^^;ym■;l

; Inf.;-'

^.'.I*

-.ht

't '

11.-

- 4 i

'. " Mm

• » 1 ( "^ ■ U.

' 1*

208

THE COAST OF CALIFORNIA.

from the low land South of San Diego Bay. It is an obelisk of white marble,
obout 20 ft. in height, and resting on a pedestal. It stands near the edge of
the bluff, about 300 yards from the beach, and is plainly visible from the water.
Its geographical position, as determined by the U.S. coast survey in 1871, is
lat. 32^ 31 68.46" N., long. 117'' 7' 32.37" W., or in time, 7" 48™ 30.15'.

From the boundary the coast is low and flat, ruiming N. by W. for about 7
miles, thence curving gradually westward, until it is nearly East and West at
the entrance of San Diego bay. There are high mountains in the interior of
the country.

POINT LOMA is the southern part of the western boundary of San Diego
B^y, and the termination of a remarkable narrow spur of coarse, crumbling
sandstone, which rises South of Puerto Falso, or False Bay, and West of the
town of San Diego, to the height of 300 ft. ; and after stretching South for
about 5J miles, gradually increasing in height to 422 ft., terminates very ab-
ruptly. A lighthouse, presently described, stands on this highest part. The
peninsula is covered with coarse grass, cacti, wild sage, and low bushes.

The eastern side of the entrance to San Diego Bay is low and flat, covered
with thick bushes and grass. It is called The Island, although a peninsula,
being very narrow and low towards the head of the bay. Ou Ballast Point,
at the base of the Point Loma ridge, arc visible the ruins of the old Spanish
fortifications, &c.

SAN DIEGO BAY.*— Next to that of San Francisco, no harbour on the
Pacific coast of the United States approximates in exeellence that of the Bay
of San Diego. It is readily distinguished and easily approached, and a depth
of 22 fi. can be carried over the bar, which is three-quarters of a mile East of
the southern extremity of Point Ijoma, and between it and the tail of the
Zuniga Shoal. The bar is about 600 yards across from the outer to the inner
5-fathoms lines.

In 1871, in reply to an inquiry of the San Diego Chamber of Commerce,
Professor G. Davidson, Chief of the U.S. Pacific Coast Survey, stated that
there had been no change in the depth on :he bar since the survey of Dal-
rymple, in 1782, and as a rule there is less swell on it than on any other bar
of the Pacific coast. The facilities for entering and leaving are considered
good, at all ordinary seasons, for vessels drawing 22 ft., at high water. Large
vessels can go about 7 miles up the bay, above Ballast Point at the entrance,
the channel averaging about 4 cables wide between the 4-fathoni8 lines. There
is less rain, fog, and thick haze, and more clear weather, in this vicinity, than
at all points to the northward, causing the entrance to be le&s difficult to make
and enter. — Mercantile Marine Magazine, August, 1871, p. 232.

t San Diogo Bay was diacoverod by Juan Rodriguoz Cabiillo, a Portuguese in the service
of Spain, in September, 1542, and called Port San Migiicl. It received its present name
from Sebastiuu Viaciiiuo, who surveyed it in Noveniber, l(i02.

flat-
by ti

iJesci'.
At

'inter (

to K) f.

nnd sti'(

NdiuJi ci

'jioaJi in

iJio nortJ

point. />,

'".'living 01

I'oinicWy c

Ijutnoiv di

JJoiiikI u

iiinst Jjouso

Ni'IooffJio 1

''"''fd JJarr
Jw^'icJ to t,
^'•"W It. Jje

"""'Iiii/fan

'^■•''•'''vc'rs ,]„„

'^bare. Jt j,

''^'''' in t'lo cJin

J'oivever, torn

^■^T Imve ,Jpve]

^^■"■'"i,' the

"•'"pormit, anl

^^ carried witjj

strong cin-rcnt «

.^'"'•■''- After |,|

""rom-lto 10 f

."'""" 2^-0 yards
"' '^ ^'"p from 2j J
^;«''erofa„,J

^''•^"''y in sight, c]
^•™"°t be missed .

^"''•^^totheriJ

^- A rnilcl

^'">"» Pacifil

SAN DiKoo jj^^Y^
Vessels coming ft-om the N AV m„l, *u ^00

flnt-topj,o.li.sla„d Mhca about 05 Jr "'^^'" "^ ''<'"" I-ma as a 1

-■so being .b„u, , „,L ';;° »"» "■« «»'»r„ .!,„„ „f ,,„,„, .

•■""■•■ clgo „,.A. ,1,0 lino !,■,""'' '""'"« " Ire.d.l, „f , ' ;""' ''^ """

•.«i «..ccbo. .o,.,b:S''r;7'- »"■■"« '" a. .bo : Xo :t, fT ''"

'"i'e<I y;«;.-„; .y, y ^ '^ "''' *° "P'''» more of tl.,. vM "^ '"*'»°

" • "■» from Da hi p , "' "' " ° ^''"' l-aving onl! ,, ft ° ''°""' -"'

t/.:-'--..-bo.o.-tr:o:::z^^^^^^^^^

^■,-.;^; I M

" ",.;.( '.■■.:

mmm

II hnM\ mtmM

111

.: ,'i

•210

TIIK COAST OK CAUroUMA.

wiUi i\nt», yet fi very narrow iJ-fiillioms channel runs close iiloiip; tlic eastern
■flliorc, Jicarly to the head of the hay.

('ornini^ from tliti Soutli, run foi ihu pxtrnmc end of Point Tioma, until
Jkllnst Toint and Lii Playa arc in ran^c, tin before, and follow the forcgoinjj
directions.

When inside the harhonr vessels are perfectly safe, l«it during very heavy
southerly weather the kelp ih said to drive in such masses as to luakc vessels
dra}^ their nnehors. Wu have never known sueh u case, and doubt if a vcbkoI,
with f^ood ground tackle and ])ro|)cr utteutioii, would Kuffer from tliis cmse ;
and t)ie lioldiiif^-f^round is oxecllcnt. In heavy S.E. "weather the sua hrcuka
ovir ilallast Point.

POINT LOMA LIGHTHOUSE.— TliJH primary sen-coast lifi;ht is less th.an
half a mile from the southern end, and situated uj)on tlie hij^hest part of the
jioint, 122 ft. above high water. The building consists of a stone dwelling, with a
low tower of pliLstercd brick rising from the centre, from which i.'* shown a
Jhcd lirii/ht light, elevated I'.Ci ft. above the sea, and viiubki iM miles.

It is high water at La I'laya (corrected et.tnbli.shmont) at 'J'' ■iH'"; springs
rise Ct ft., and neaps li feet 4 inches.

From Itallast I'oint the bay ruus about North for IJ mile, and thenco curves
gradually to the eitstwavd for .'5 miles, to New iS'an ])ic<ja ; thence to the head
of tlie bay S.K. 7 miles. The average width of the bay, after passing l,:i
J'laya, is l.^ mile, but at New .San Diigo, after eontraetiug t(» a little over
hair a mile, it again e,\j)ands to aboiit IJ mile, with low shores and e.Ktensivc
marshes and flats.

The great drawback in San Diego liay is the want of frish wati;r, which liiu:
,to be brought from the river. I'reah provi.sioiis are readily j)i'oeured here.
.Wood is scarce and not good. A vein of coal (lignite) has been discovered
near San ])ic!go, but it is stated to be of bad tpiality. The town has a ptjpulii-
tioii of about i,i'()(), and i.-^ the oldest in the; State, having been lust setllcil by
the .IcBuits in 17()'.). 'J'herc is a branch railway to San Diego, from the youtliern
I'acilie I!.iilway between New Orleans and Sun l^'raneiseii ; from San Diegu
it runs northward near the coast, till San Luis Key is reached, where it coU'
tinues iidaiul to the junction at Collon,

Tiicre i.i a wharf here reacliing into 2i'J ft. water; ami two steam-lags, Ik ■
longing to the Kailway Company, can be had for towing at reasonable chargc.i.
.In 1882 four Uritish ships, measuring 2,UI!; tons, arrived here with coal ami
,iron. and two loaded with wheat for (jlreat lirilain.

False Bay.-- At the .\orth end of tlu' ridge of Point Loma is an cxtensivi;
fihoal bay, called I'ueito Palso, or Pulse liay. 'I'lie bar at its entrance lies
N. by W. J W., distant .0^ milcB from tlu; so\ithern c.\tremity of I'oint Loinu;
and having but 3 ft. water, it can he crossed only in the suuiothcst wealhti.
The northern i)oint of this hay ia about 2 milts in lengtl(, very narrow, mil
covered with low wind dunes.

To tl,
cx-cej[)t |j
o/r this 8

'•'roni 1

•■'- miles,

or San Vv

San U

■'"'iiated in

''c.iled hn

■.ml (hrivii

V'-diey irmn

■""•P'T-ntcd tl

<•/ country i

'"* 'ui iu.supe,

""''I arc Htaf.

'" •t'- Tlie ai,

San Juan

•""''""•"gc, ro.

'•* "i/'idiy g,,;,

^'lio.sc laxuria

■''""•^■S give, ft

"I'l'n'ned iien

■'■'"-• bay, ,„■ ,
•^'•'•vcd, is- i„ j„t

''■>'" clilfy )u,uj
"■"•''• 'i'l.,„„c

'''•"Ill ''ail ,/-„,.,

^- i 'N- to .l'„i„(

'"•■''" is mnu-d I

'-' ''«i.s, and Nan (

"■''""* I" fho \. \\

"■"■'■"«• entrance,

''■'^■■''■'lotis for any

""'""i''- it h sai.f t

I /■

■''•IN LUIS Iluv^^S „.,,,

~ ""'■■■■ u«.»;77 ;''«»'.■""«..,■.,..;,,,,,,,,,, ,,,,,,

■■'■ "n..,.,„„, , ; :","f "^'"«-- '■-..,.,',:'":■"»■".'■"%-

; '■ -"-"-.I .,„,... ,, , ,•;" ""«"" ■» ..» „■;,„ : 7';"-' ■•'■-■■

'■'■"■■ I1<. a,„,l,„,aBe i- ,.,. " """-■''■ «'■' ""Iw.-.v r,. I "'''■ ""

"::^:;i:^,r^:::r.--"';;-^^^^^^^^^^ ^-

, •^.' "'■*•'"■'• f'e out.., ,,,,.,., -' *^•''"";^ 117 '.(,;' w

''■«'' «'"b- )u-a. to the N.\V t ;"'"■ ''■ ■'"■ ^^ • ■'•'- I'a i ' , i"'' '"'"

I'niMi v,.|„ J ,, . '""" I'lt-' lauJui".

;"=;£=?-=•;=-■: .:.

'".'«"■ ••'».l ^i.. (J,,!,,,,,, " '""'«•'". i.i.„ „.l,id, „,„ ,|„ ' • ' '"'■.. '..-

"i!" I.. li„. X iv r ;, """ ■'"•"• ■'••"/'."» .,r A ""■"■"■■"-' I

"• .™.™! : , ": T'-" u ■" •-"«■;: ::t:/T;T-^ " ' '^

.J ' "' '"■'"'"■"■'■ ■'•■.V r,,,.,, ,,:;:,:!;:. ;™" ".- ... ..„> ,.

"" _ " "" I..S.....I. AlK„„|,,,,

* 'llic niiasioM in hi(i,„( t, '~ _ _

'r'-" -'■•o' «■'-. .:„. ::^:'"-''"'''"^^ ^"'■'^-^" v.,,,, „„., ; " , • <

r-""^'"'^'.-!,., , ,i ';:'"":";■— ^ A. .: :""""""^-^-....

312

THE COAST OF CALIFORNIA.

East of Newport Lnmliiig, where most of the coasting steamers call, is tho
town of Santa Ana, with which it is connected by a yood waggon road.
Santa Ana is connected by railway with that from San Francisco to New Orleans.
About 12 miles N.E. of it arc some extensive mines of good coal. Farther to the
N.W., in about lat. 33" 42' N., is the landing wharf of Anaheim, a rapidly
rising ])lace ; water is scarce here. The town of Anaheim, about 9 miles
inland, has about 1,500 inhabitants, and has railway communication with Los
Angeles.

SAN PEDRO BAY, or Wilmington, — This bay is well protected in every
direction, except against the winter gales from the S.E. round to the S.W.
During the spring, summer, and autumn, it is an excellent roadstead. From
Point Ferniin, Avhich is the S.E. portion of high land forming tlie West side
of the bay. the line of bluif runs exactly North and South for about 2 miles,
being bold, and averaging 00 ft. in height. Near the \wh\i is a curious column
of rock, named San Pedro's Wife, or the Woman of the Period.

LIGHTHOUSE, — On Point Fermin is a square light buff-coloured tower,
50 ft. high, showing afas/iiny light, with alternate red and hri<jht flashes at
intervals of 10 seconds, citvited 15G ft. above high water, and visible I'J
miles.

Vessels coming from tlic westward through the Santa Barbara Channi.1
make San Pedro Ilill (1,600 ft. in height), forming the West side of the bay,
as an island projected against the mountains to the southward and eastward.
Approaching Point Vicente, which is the S.W. point of the hill, vessels can
keep it close aboard, there being from 50 to 80 fathoms within a mile of the
shore ; round Point Fermin within half a mile, in front G to 10 fathoms, ami
open the small island called El Moro, or Deadman ; run for that island, and
when .abreast of the landing (readily recognised by the houses on the blulf),
about 1 mile North of Point Fermin, anchor in 3 fiithoms, hard bottom, at half
a mile off shore. Vessels must anchor a mile off to get in 5 fathoms.

Coming from the South with N.AV. winds, beat in boldly until abreast of the
landing; keep the lead going, and anchor anywhere in its vicinity. Do not
ajjproach the low shore, to the North and Eiistof El Moro, closer than 1 mile,
at which limit 4 fathoms water will be found.

In winter anchor farther out, and more to the southward, in order to be able
to slip the cable and go to sea, should a heavy south-easter spring up.*

* Sir George Simpson, who vini'.'vl it in his overland journey round the world in 181 !•'.',
Boys ; — " S(in Pedro is an open hay, which has no belter claim to the character of a liarbour
than almost any other point on the coast, hcing exposed to both tho prevailing winds, and
being dostituto of everything in tho shupc of a lioasc, or oven of a thed. It s only recom-
mendation ia, that it afTorda access to tho I'achlo of Xuestra Senora, nhoiit 18 miles disfcinl,
■which contained a population of 1,500 soula, and is situated in one of tlio loveliest and iiidt
fcililo districts of Ccilifornia."

5Q(

^ea

j'nha

ing]

cann(

'J'J.o r

A^en- c

Larn

^esseis

tons, nj.j

Cisco or
Joad and
nnd cJica^

kt 33" 4

'^^yso, a]

'^'^0 ton!

^"gc/s), jj

^'■"'n AViJ,J

grnpe-grov

San FrancJ

to he nn «„J

^*^'ff"J.'i-con|

s'camers anl

^08 AngcJeJ

^'^'e foHo J

"' K'vcn in tj|

^''or vosscJsl

'"^preferable L

"'°"^' t'le coJ

'i'"co betwcc J

"'"^ free from

"•'"tcr month.,

^.e«,.„.,..„:i!'"""°-''"'~--«No.ro.v.

feet lonff from p 7 ""l'™^-^<^ ^t bv coustm.; ^"'*'^' •^'''''<-'^

JIlC town of IP-, • " '" "■ •■" lt»

"-.I, cot,;,.;' ;'"'"'" »»'i "»l n.-o l„„fcl ,,„, ., , „

<"S nmvi.,1 r *•''■'""■ '" '»»2. "I llri, , "" '""•' "mi-It

a .at J 39™. springs rise ^, ^ ' '"«'» >vater, on full i

J be town of Zw -/„ ? ' ' "'^'''P' '"i ^t- ""'

°n-"ra in fl,o X,,,,,. „, ,/° "? *• J" J. Molony, sh,-„ » .,■ ,

'''o-'S the coast il , ""'"""' ^^•''^•« ^'^ p.-evalent V U '"'''' ^"^''''""^'I

^i'"- between and f ,"""' '^ "^ "" ^'■'>-' mo "free / "'"''^ ''"^ ^'--

-^ -ee .on::: :;;;:^: ;^^;'"<'^ -^^ as .. ::.?: s ?; r ^'-

^^•'"ter month., the' \ \v ' ""' J'"'''*"f>''^ '^ ^ .s-ifc „„o t ' ' ^'^'''"^^

"^^•^^ •---''' "-Wi,.,j;:--;-t.^^^

.' ? n.

,;!i hk

, ^

-•U

iff

'. ?:-'

!"•'' '

■ ' . ' " ^

■I,'

51 ^ "■

^yii

■

ir ,?:■'

I it %

! m

']iv

314

THE COAST OF CALIFORNIA.

airs from the southward bclnj; common ; thou ;v vessel can taho the outsule
route, passing to the northward of CataUna Island.

•Small vessels, or steamers of light drauglit, can anchor witliin half a mile of
the beach in 4 fathoms, or even cross the bar at high water, and anchor abreast
of the village of San I'cdro ; but this slundd only be attempted in vessels
drawing less than 1 J ft., and with some local assistance.

In the roads the bottom is sandy oaze, and good holding ground ; but there
are large jmtches of rock, generally shown by the kelp, which soinetitues grows
in 20 or 30 fathoms of water, but always over a foul bottom. This must he by
nil me.ins avoided, and in coming to an anchor suflicient space, clear of kelp,
must be allowed around the ship to jwrmit lighters to come alongside with
facility. The residents at Wilmington assert that a vessel well found willi
ground tackle can ride out any of tlie winter gales, but doing so wouhl be
attended with a great amount of risk, as tlie place is quite open.

Vessels discharge their cargoes into large lighters, whicii carry from 100 to
200 tons, and are towed to and from Wilmington by a steamer. Ships having
a steam winch can discharge with great facility, as empty lighters are constantly
in attendance, and the water, owing to outlying beds of kelp, is perfcctiv
smooth. I'lxtni haiuls, or a steam winch for working cargo, can be hired at
Wilmington. Supplies of all sorts are gooil, and very cheap.

The harbour of Wilmington is an extensive shallow i ilct, (ho entrance to
which has been increascil to a de[)th of 17 ft. at high water by a Ivcaiiwater,
as yet incomplete ; but the extent of deep water inside the bar is limiteil, at
present only sufficient for a few coasting vessels. The channel from tho
entrance to the town, 3 miles above, is shallow and intricate, winding between
extensive mud flats, dry at low water.

At Wilmington the Southern Pacitic Eailway Company have a good wharf
and depot, and hero goods and pttsscngors are embarked for tlu^ coasting
steamers, which call here twice u week on iheir way from ISau I''rancisco to
San Diego.

If the bar is deepened to admit largo vessels (as is proposed), Wilmington
must become nr important seaport, and at present it has the advantage of being
incomparably the cheapest place on the I'acitie Coast. — /.'. J. M-

HonicA Bay. — From Point Vicente the coast trends N. by W. I W. for hi
miles; thence W. by S. to Point Dume in hit. 34' 0' N., long. \W 48' W.,
thus forming a curve in the coa.st-liuc, known as Monica Hay. At it-s head is
the port and town of Santa Muniva, connected by railway with Los Angeles,
IS miles distant. It is a favourite bathing-place, ;uul has a wharf into deep
water for the coasting steamers.

Point Duma rises into a dome-like form, 202 ft. high. Thclaml iiiiiiK'ili;itily
behind it falls uwiiy, so that in making it fi<nu tlie We,--!, it iiM.'s into view as

il-

IIUKNKMK POINT.

215

i\n isliiml close uiuIpv the hi^h inoiuitiiins, Eastward of Duinn the mountains
spring; directly tVoni the water,*

. From Point Duma to Point llueneme the coast trends about W. by N. 22
miles, J'oini Mitgtt beinij; nbont midway between. From thence to Sun
Uuenavcntura, distant about 7 miles, the coast trends N.W. by N. At 2 nnlos
West of Point Mugu is Lac/una Point, close under which is very deep water,
the lO-fathonis line running within 2o0 yards of the shore, lietween Point
Mu}?u and Buenaventura the coast is low, tint, and sandy, being the opening
i>f tl>e valley of Santa C'lara, through which flows the Santa Clara lUver. This
stream is< nearly dry during tlie summer, and terminates in lagoons and marshes.

The eastern entrance to the Santii Barbara Channel lies between the eastern
end of Anaeapa Island and Point Jltuneme, which is about half-way between
.l\)iiit Mugu and Buenaventura. Prom Anaeapa, Point Huencme bears
^i.E. by N. J N., distant lOJ miles, and a short distance southward (?) of it is
JWt llueuemf, when; mucli barley is shipped.

The Lighthouse on lluoneme Point is a light bull-eoloured tower, 46 ft.
high, rising from the keeper's dwelling; it shows i\ fixed hriyht light for I
minute, followed by six consecutive fiasltes of 10 second.s durntiou each, ele-
vated ;■) 1 fl. above high water, and visible 12 miles.

Directly oil" Point llueneme is found a remarkable example of a subnuirinc
valley, commencing with a depth oi" It) fathoms, -100 yards from the beach,
ineicasing to 60 f.Uhoins in five-eighilis of a mile, and to 113 fathoms in less
than 2 miles. Its general direction is South, with a width of a mile, and
bounded on cither side by defiths of 12 and lo fathoms. The best landing is
directly on the point ; landing in the bight to the eastward and leeward is im-
practicable. Vancouver says this was called Point Conversion on old Spanisli
maps ; he placed it in lat. 'd\^ U , and retained the name.

• At the bottom ol' llu- iKiy, lu'twicu Toiut Diiiiii' iind I'oiiit Vircnto, iaiil)it.uuuu spring'
In rut'iTOUto to \h\A, when VuiU'inivrr^iiiihorodin u .smullbay (iOmiUs to thiniirth-wu8tw:iril,
lit) says : — " ITio aurfuco of tho boh, whiih was purfecUy Buututh und tramiuil, whs covered
with II thii-U .■'liuiy 8ubst;«iice, which, wliuu st>i>!iniUnl or distiihiiti-d hy iiiiy littlo ai,'itution,
Ircamo very luminou.s, wtiilst tho lij,'ht hroezu tliivt cumu priuaimlly from the shoro brought
with it a very stronj? siniU of bumiiip; titr, or of bomc- such rosiuoim substiince. Tho next
inoining tlio sea h.id tho tipjioariiiieo of dissolved t.ir tlo:iti!if^ u|xm its Hurfai'o, which covered
{.ho occun ia all direction* witliiu ll>o limitH of our view, and iudicntcd thiit in tliia ui>i(,'h-
Imwrhood it was not subjoct to much agitation." This i-ingular fact, which uiigbt bu turned
to jirotilaiilo account, bus a lao been nolicod by others; — "Dtl'this part of tho coast (near
t-.tnta lUirbiira) to tho westward, (.'ajitiiiu Sir Edward Uolchor says, wo oxiicriouced a very
extraordinary sensation, as if iho ship wuh on lire, and after very doso investigation uttri-
liulid it to a bci nt from tlio shore, it being much nioro stmuililo on deck than bolow, and
the laud broozo conlirming this, it occurred to nic Uiat it might arise from najilitha on tho
finfaco." — Voyiigo of tho Suiphur, vol. i, p. 320. Thia waa boforu potroloum was thoiijjUt
of. It is montioucd aguin presently.

216

THE COAST OF CALIFORNIA.

f-i,\

» '

Bnenaventnra. — Tho mission of Buenaventura, situated at the foot of the
dividing ridge of the valleys of San Buenaventura and Santa Clara, about half
u mile from the shore, was founded March 31, 1782, in about lat. 34" 15' N.,
long. 119" 15' W. The climate is temperate, and the soil very fertile. There
is excellent holding ground off Buenaventura in 10 fathoms, but the landing is
not good ; the 3-fathoms line lies about a quarter of a mile off shore.

At 15 miles westward of Buenaventura, on the coast, there is a rich deposit
of sulphur, surface specimens of which liave yielded si.xty per cent. Around
the locality are I'ound ashes and scoria. The ground is hot, and the gas emitted
is almost suffocating.

SANTA BARBARA.— From San Buenaventura tr Santa Barbara the dis.
tance is 23 miles, and the bearing nearly W. by X. Santa Barbara is an open
roadstead for all except northerly winds, which arc unfrocjuent. On the West
of the long low sandy beach is a bold bluff called Potnl Filijjc or Castello, tho
hill rising behind which is called La Viyia.

Tho landing is on the beach about Imlf a mile Fast cf Point Filipe ; tho
shore is very low and flat as fiir as tho town, throe-quartors of n mile distant,
but gr.idually rises to the mission, which is a prominent object about 2 miles
inland, elevated 200 ft. above the sea. The town is of considerable size, lying
in the middle of an agricultural tract, running East and West, at the southern
base of the Sierra Concepcion, but of limited breadth. The trade with San
Francisco is not extensive ; but this being one of tho greatest stock-raising
districts on the coast, vast droves of cattle pass through and are sent to Sau
Francisco, and the mining districts. Tliero is rcguliir communication with
Sun Francisco by steam and sailing vessels.*

The mission, founded December Ith, 178(), is one of the largest and best
establishments of the kind in California, and in the gardens attached to it tho
grape and olive were cidtivated with success.

Sulphur, in large beds and of superior cpiallty, exists along the seaboard,
and manifests itself in all the warm springs. Wood and provisions in abun-
dance can be easily obtained here. Water is plentiful, but not so readily
procured.

The Lighthouse at Santa Barbara consists of a plastered dwelling, with a
low gray tower rising tln-ough the roof, situated 2 miles south-westward of the
landing-place, and 183 yards from the edge of the bluff. It shows a Jixcd
hriijht light, elevated 180 ft., and visible 17 miles. Approximate position, hit.
Sr 23' 35" N., long. ll'J" -12' 5' W.

• A largo Litnmon pit, iibout 8 iiiilos West of SiU.ta Barbara, cinjitits Jirettly into tho
ocoan, and tliu bitumen, iloating on tho water, works ngainBt tho sunmior or N.W. winds,
oven bt.yond Point Concepcion. Very frequcnth', in caliu weather, a great extent of tho
Burfiiec of tho channel becomes iridescent from tho thin film of bitumen spread over it. Tho
rocka along tho shore, even to tho westward of Point Concopeiou, are covered willi it.

> jj

"'" '"■'p. «...! nncho, i, jj ' 1 "' ""'' ""*■"• '" ' fall, J f' "^ "'""S
»»%". off ,„ ,« „ J7 •'; ' "' »i fathom,, h...<l JJJ ' " P™ "'""Sh

'I vwsel's Ji.nvse if iw.i . '""""^ « such vast ouanhV , ''^P' "^ tho

, ■'■'"■ "■■«-«»^ r™; ':; :, ">V"- '■^ "«,;«"""• "-'• "«■■"= ««,

'"'"■^'-" runs A\' i,,. ^ ... "'' ^'"'•'^"'•i ''iyhtiiouso to !> • .

l«»»«"..os c»ll„, „,„ ,^^, "-.'"Si. f".™i»« „„, of „""""' " " » ™«o

I« vallov „.l,;., '° ""•■ 0»"ola I',,,, . °'°"8 "'o »l>orc fc .

'"'•0 •!.« bono), J L^i, T"*'" 'o ".0 »!,„,. I;.. "'° ™S8'«1 '.«!.

roilfl C0»CEPCI0J,._,,- " '"'■"•'''-»•»''

„„,„,„. -"^ oi fto ft,,,f„,„;, .,„„,^_^ ,,.;■;,; '"s" '-ok „,„,^

™1«'. a,„l „,,„„ ,1 , ' 0"" Coiicopcion sianjj „„ ,,

''"'^'-t from the water If ^ '^"'•^^'•"^«, a.^d appear abn ! '" ^' P''°-

'^^'"- ^^--i„, a Z: " " ^'"""'^' ^'^-^"'^^t llu f ' """^'"'^'^ «f their

:-'0 .8- 0^ ,v. '^^ "W»'o.x„„ate position i« Ja^ 3,^ f !'^^-'-" ^'- ->a, .i^.j

.7;;r---^^;^^^i::!^ -- - -. or

J wat Concenr,-,, ,. " _ "'JCK or

•^'-''Co„cepc.-o„.,,7^ ____^J^ca :„ thick 0,

2j.

I.t.1 -K

■,.1 *■!

' ,<•

- I

i I-

218

TIIK COAST OF CALIFORNIA.

i ill

foggy weather sounds a blast of ft seconds in every minute. The buildings
arc painted white. A Ufchoal was to be stationed near the lighthouse.

" Next to the islands of the Santa Barbara Channel, Point Concepcion is
the most prominent and interesting feature between San Francisco and the
peninsula of Lower California. It has becu very justly and ajipropriatcly
termed the ' Cape Horn ' and the ' Ilatteras ' of the Pacific, on account of tho
heavy north-westers that are met with on coming through the channel, with
a great change of climate and meteorological conditions ; the transition being
remarkably sudden and well defined.

" During some summer seasons tho fog is almost interminable, but moro
particularly among the islands. For the space of six weeks, with clear days
and niglUs at the cape, the islands have been invisible ; rising, however, to an
elevation of 1,000 or 1,500 ft., the observer plainly sees the summits of tho
islands over the sea of fog which envelopes them.

" When the fogs prevail, they generally roll in from seaward at sunset, and
clear away about 10 o'clock next morning." — G. Daindson.

EL COXO. — At 2 miles East of Point Concepcion is the anchorage of
El Coxo, off the entrance to the valley of that name. This anchorage is a
better one than that of Santa Barbara, and the kelp is not so compact. In
coming from the westward, after passing the point at a distance of about three-
quarters of a mile, steer E. by N. and gradually round the bluff, which is a
mile East from the point, giving it a berth of half a mile; run on a N.N.l'l.
course for three-quarters of a mile, Adieu the vuUcy will open with a sand
beach off it ; anchor outside or inside the kelp, according to the choice of
depth, 5 fathoms being obtained within a quarter of a mile of tlic shore, with
hard, sandy bottom. Ten fathoms water will be found half a mile from tho
shore.

There is a large rancho at El Coxo, and it is one of the very best tracts for
grazing. Tlie beef lias a finer flavour and more delicacy than any met with
on the coast. The water is disagreeable to the taste. The primary astro-
nomical station of the Coast Survey was on the top of the bluff, and between
250 and 300 yards W. I S. from the mouth of the creek. Its geographical
position is lat. 31= 2G' 50.5" N„ long. 120" 20' 33" W.

ISLANDS OF THE SANTA BARBARA CHANNEL.

The name of El Canal de Santa Barbara was given by Viscaino, in Decem-
ber, 1G02, to the narrowest part of the channel lying East and West, and
about 55 miles in length. Until the U.S. coast survey fust examined in detail
the islands lying off the main between San Diego and Point Concepcion,
nothing accurate was known of their number, peculiarities, extent, or position.

It may not be here amiss to call attention to the abundance of mackerel
found in the channel. The water has been seen fairly alive with them, and

tho

ing

I)art

rain

Ijy e

durin

Con^
gcrou.j
tlic S.y
soundcf
led us
trend if
Nicolas,
long. Hi
to the S.
nature of
coral at t:
'J'he she
<^ miles fr,
"]'<"! it, so
this (laji'rn
fe'eneral di,
I'osition of
end of the
^'•om the S.
The ne.xt
of h'mited r
^roni the A'
""'1 from til
iiishop JJoc
•'ii'* shoal SI
between it ni;

^'j'on this

N.W winds

times a heavy

'•ocks. J„ p,,

proximity to i

^"s found tha

"•■"''. and the

f'K'cining tlicl

CORTES SIIOAr>.

21!)

they have been caught by hutidieds. {.'^ayil^^l^ of a very large size are found
in great numbers along the shores. The rainy season commences in the early
part of November, and continues until the middle of March. The quantity of
rain that falls docs not average over 15 inches, but some seasons are marked
by excessive drought. During the winter S.E. gales prevail, and soraetimca
during the summer months southerly weather will bring up heavy rain.

CORTES SHOAL.

Commencing at the southward, the first that claims our attention is the dnn-
gerou;; bank and rock called Cortes Shoal, bearing S.W. ^ W. IG miles from
the S.E. end of the island of San Clcmento. The extent of this bank has been
sounded out carefully, and found much greater than the early examinations
led us to suppose. Within the limits of the .'50-fathoms curve the general
trend is parallel with the islands of Santa Catalina, San Clcmente, and San
Nicolas, and it stretches about lo miles to W. by N., from lat. 32'' 24' N.,
long. 118° .OOi' W., to lat. 32° 32' N., long. ll'J° \1\' ^V., but curves slightly
to the S.W. It has an average and nearly uniform width of oi miles. The
n;itine of the bottom is hard, composed of white sand, broken shells, and fine
coral at the S.lv portion, and sand with broken shells at the N.W.

The shoalest and most dangerous part is that known as Lishop llicli, lying
miles from the S.E. tail of the bank, and having but 2A fathou"', of watei
upon it, so named frona the ship which discovered it by striking on it. Around
tliis danger the depth increases gradually, .nnd in an extent of 2i miles in the
general direction of the bank reaches buv 15 fathoms. The geographical
position of the rock is lat. 32° 25 J' N., long. 119° 5' W., and from the N.W.
end of the island of San Nicolas it bears S.E. by S., distant 57 miles; and
from the S.E. end of San Clcmente S.W. \ S., distant 4G miles.

The next shoal spot is one of 10 fathoms, about the middle of the bank, and
of limited extent, being only half a mile square within the 15-fathoms curve.
From the N.W. end of San Nicolas, it bears S.E. by S. J S., distant 54 miles ;
and from the S.E. end of San Clcmente S.W. J W., distant 50 miles. From
bishop Hock it bears W. i N., distant 5 miles. To the north-westward of
tliis shoal spot the depth is nearly uniform at 40 fathoms fur 1}^ miles, and
between it and Bishop Kock the depth is uniform at about 43 fathoms.

Upon this bank the current is variable, frequently setting against the strong
N.W winds with a velocity of nearly 2 miles per hour, and producing at all
times a heavy swell, and even in moderate weather breaking heavily upon the
rocks. In passing over the bank at night vessels have been sensible of their
inoximity to it by the increased swell. In the detailed examination of 185G it
wns found that the general set of the euwent was to the southward and cast-
ward, and the greatest velocity lA mile per hour; but no statement is made
cotueniing the prevailing wind.

':<' . < ■•

'' ~'

I ' ■it

'i.

220

THE COAST OF CALIFORNIA.

It lies in the direct route now followed by the I'ananm nnd San Frnnoisco
stcnm-ships, and wns discovered by Capt. Cropper, of the Mttani-sliip Curtm,
in March, 1853. Ilis position was determined by bearinj,'s upon San Nicolas
nnd San Clenicnte, nnd was very close, being within a mile of the latest and
best assigned place, lie says that the water around it was iu violent coui-
motion, nnd thrown up suddenly in columns at regular intervals of four or live
minutes. At first he thought ho saw breakers, and occasionally the watur
broke as on a reef, but he became confident that the disturbance was owing to
submarine volcanic agency. The sijccimcns of the bottom negative this idea.
He found his depth of water reduced from 42 fathoms to 9, which convinces
us that he was on the shoal spot, about the middle of the bank, and saw the
water breaking upon IJishop Eock, the same appearance that he witnessed,
having been seen many times since by others, and the nature of the rocky
bottom nnd depth of water supporting the assumption.

ISLAND OF SAN CLEMENTE.

This, like all the islands of the Santa liarbara Channel is high and bold, the
southern end being the higher, and gradually falling to the northward ; its
greatest elevation is estimated at 1,500 ft. The general trend of the island is
N.W. by W., its length 17 miles, with an average bi'cadth of 2 miles, and
50 miles in circuit. 'J'hc S.W. point of the island bears \V. J S. from Point
Loma, distant GO miles. At the N.W. end is a small indr ntation of the shore-
line, forming an anchorage, having a width of three-quarters of a mile, liy
half a mile in depth, with soundings decreasing from 12 fathoms, on the lino
of a large rocky islet at the West side to a point E. by S. from it, to 4 and 5
fiithoms close inshore. Kelp will be found in 10 fathoms, but the bottom is
tolerably regular and hard, it is anything but a pleasant or safe anchorage
in bad N.W. weather, and even in heavy southerly weather the swell must roll
iu disagreeably.

Under the S.E. end of the island anchorage may bo had in the deepest part
of the indentation, but the bottom is rocky and irregular. The S.E. point is
n vast sandstone pyramid ; and when it is brought to bear North, and the
shore three-quarters of a mile distant, the anchorage will be W. by N. A N.,
IJ mile, inside the kelp, in 10 to 15 fathoms, and one-third of a mile from the
narrow sand beach at the foot of the cliffs. Outside of the kelp the dcptli
ranges from 10 to 30 fathoms. This anchorage will afford protection in heavy
N.W. weather.

The soundings around the island show a depth of from 3G to 130 fathoms
close inshore, e.xccpt off the N.W. point, from which a reef makes out about
a mile. Neither wood nor water can be had here. The whole island would
appear to be unfit for raising stock, on account of the want of water, but it is
stated that thousands of sheep nnd goats thrive on it. Very few trees are found,

SANTA BARBARA CHANNEL.

221

nnd tlio nspcct is Ktcrilo. Tliis island was discovorcil by Cabrillo in ir>l2,
and called by liiiu San Salvador, after one of his two vcsmIs. Tliu present
name was given by Viscaino in 1GU2.

ISLAND OF SANTA CATALINA.

This island rises to a bei<;lit of about li.OOl) ft., and is remarkable for the
great transverse break or depression, 5 miles frniu the northern end, running
partly through it, and forming an anchorage or cove on each side. Tlds
depression bears S.S.W., IBj^ miles from Point I'ermin. The land connecting
these coves is very low, not over 30 ft. ; but the hills rise up on each side
2,000 or 3,000 ft., nnd when sighted from the North or South the whole
appears like two very high islands. The general trend of the island from its
S.K. end is W. by N. J N., 17} miles, with an avemge breadth of 4 miles in
the southern part, and 2 miles in the northern, while the shore-lino amounts
to about 42 miles.

Pandora Cove, or Catalina Harbour — The harbour or cove in the
southern side, 5 miles from the northern end, is only about one-third of a mile
in width, but its approaches are bold, and, so far as known, free from hidden
da'in;f'r.-. To find it, run along the S.W. side of the island, and ninke the
depression ; then stand in for the opening, keeping a. little left of mid-channel,
until a third of a mile inside of the heads. From thence keep in mid-channel,
initil abreast of the long, low point on the right, and anchor in 5 fathoms, soft
bottom. There is a depth of 3 fathoms inside of the low point, with hard
bottom, but not room enough for a vessel to swing. If the wind is blowing
from the N.W., vessels will lose it at the heads, and perhaps require to bo
towed in.

Raper Bay, or Isthmus Cove. — The anchorage on the North side of the
depression is also small, with a reef in the centre, and two large outlying rocks.
A steamer eould run iu on the West side of the rocks, and anchor off the low-
beach In 10 fathoms, when the reef would lie N. by E. from her, distant one-
eighth of a mile. Small craft will here find protection from the prevailing
winds, but experience difficidty in getting out, as there is always a sv dl setting
ill, nnd the wind blows in flaws and eddies on account of the high hills.
Between the two points forming the anchorage the distance is half a mile, and
tlic depth one-third of a mile.

The soundings around the island show deep water, from 19 to 75 fathoms,
close inshore, with no outlying rocks except off the North cove. The shores
nre rocky, nnd on the southern side fearfully abrupt, but on the northern shore
there are several indentations, where boats may land at almost any season.
Deep and precipitous gulches are formed by the ridgos of rock running
diagonally across the island from N.E. to S.W., and occasionally a small valley
varies the scene. A few settlers cultivate these spots, but their inconsiderable

1 .

* 1

h'"^'^

'..,'• t.

1 i

222

TlIF- COAST OF CALIFOUMA.

extent pic'cliiili's the iTuli/.iiif; of anytliiii;; lieyoiid ii susteiKuice. Soiiio riitllo
and sheep nru kept. About niiUway h'-twecii tlie \.\V. extremity nl' the ishmd
and the great break there is a spring of good water, and at the S.M. point good
water lias been obtained by sinking wells to a dejjth of TjO ft. or more, bnt in
the intermediate places water found at the same depth is brackish. The i«land
ia covered with n growth of thorny bushes.

This island was discovered by Cubrillo in 1512, and called by him La
Victoria, after one of his two vessels. It received its present name from
Viscaino in December, 1002, when it was thickly itdiabited by a people
reported to be very ingenious, particularly in pilfering and concealing, some
examples of which accomplishment they gave the (Spaniards. Piulrc do la
Ascension, who accompanied this expedition, gives veiy jjarticular descrip-
tions of a kind of temple to tho sun, with images and idols found . -rnr the
two coves.

ISLAND OF SANTA BARBARA.

This is one of the only two small islands of tho Santa Barbara group. It
lies on the line between the North end of San Clemento and the Plust end of
Santa Cruz, and almost half-way between them. From the North end of
Santa Catalina it bears W. by S. distant 215 miles. The extent of the island
would not exceed 2 miles ; its elevation at the highest part is about ."lOO ft.,
and the top has an area of about 30 acres, covered with soil, but no water is
found, and not a vestige of wood. The shores arc rocky and abrupt, pre-
senting on the N.K. and South sides perpendicular cliffs, exposed to the full
force of the ocean swell. Landing is at all times difficult and dangi. ous, the
water around it is deep, and there arc no outlying rocks. It is said to be
much more enveloped in fogs than the neighbouring islands. Its approximate
position is lat. 33° 30' N., long. 1 19° 2' W.

ISIANB OF SAN NICOLAS.

Of the Channel Islands this is the most distant from the coast, as well as
the driest and most sterile. It is about GOO ft. high, abrupt, and, like Suii
Clemente, comparatively flat-topped, but falling to the southern end. Tho
sides arc bold and precipitous, and composed of coarse sandstone. Its general
direction is W.N.W. and E.S.E. ; its length is 8 miles, with an average and
nearly uniform width of 3^ miles, whilst tho extent of shore-line is about
22 miles. The North point of the island bears S.W. by W. from Point
Fermin, distant 66 miles ; the line passing about 1 mile South of the island of
Santa Barbara.

The soundings around the island .show depths varying from 10 to 18
fathoms. At the North end heavy breakers make out 2] miles, and the

22(5

John Begff Hoclr ; u ^ Vancouver

''efincl. and cant cliK ^c '"" ^' ''^ "'-'t /o ft." , ,^; ^7, "•^^•^^•
"ccting thorn If ''"""'-• ^'"•' ^>^'«tonoe of ,/ ^'" «°"nJ''"«s

It was nnmod after the shin ; / n '

"- September 20th Wu n7 ^''^' ''^'^<^^^ «truck uno

with kcln. ' ^'-^' ""'^ ^^--^^ nearly ]„,t. Tho f„".l .^ " ''''^ "''«'•

i '° ^''"' '^o"om is covered

ISIAND OF AITACAPA.

Jnis IS in fj,pj . •

h- three-quarters nf o •, ^^- "» ^"•''V'lt. M-ith » J „ 1 """^

luiuitis ot a mile. This .•« » ^ ''"'*'-' "f over o ^-

"«i' in one of tho ., • '"'**''"" extreraitv is f« , enormous

'"' producing oniy

<.f •>

1.^

' r

i
1

224

THE COAST OF CALIFORNIA.

a few dwarfed species of cactus, and a thick-Icavcd succulent plant. Not a
drop of water is to be found on the islan'l.

Anacapa is a place of great resort for the seal, sea-lion, and formerly of tho
otter, but tho latter liave been nearly all killed off. It was on this island that
the steam-ship Winfidd Scotl ran ashore during a dense fog at midnight.
December 2nd, 1853, in cahn weather.

ISLAND OF SANTA CRUZ.

This island is tho largest of tho Santa Barbara Channel group, and lies off
the coast opposite the town of Santa Barbara, at a distance of 20 miles. Its
general direction is East and West, with u length of 21 miles, and an average
width of -1 miles, while tlie extent of its shore-lino is not less than 5.'] miles.
On tho northern side of the island and near the middle, the shore makes n
moderately deep curve, forming a roadstead called Prisoner's Ilarhuur, at tho
opening of a valley, where plenty of wood and Wi.tor can be obtained. An-
chorage may be had a quarter of a mile off the midi'Jo of the beach in 15
fathoms, sandy bottom ; but there is no protection from the heavy swell
setting in with a north-wester; it must, however, afford excellent refuge
in S.E. gales.

Anacapa Buy is an open bay southward of San Pedro Point, the eastern
point of Santa Cruz, where vessels can anchor in 13 or 11 fathoms, about one-
third of a mile from the landing-place in the X.IC. part of the bay, and hero
two buoys were moored. Kelp lines the greater part of the shore, and rocks
extend off several of the projecting points.

The soundings around the island sliow deep water close to tho shore, but
there are rocks showing quite plainly 1 mile from the S.W. point, and others
lying off the westernmost point.

In 1874 the U.S. surveyors discovered several other good anchorages and
landing-places, and also some good springs of water. A well-marked sub-
marine plateau extends off tho North side of the island ; there is a remarkable
cailon off the S.W. side, averaging 300 fathoms in depth for the greater part
of its length, with 40 and 50 fathoms on its seaward side.

Tlio island is bold, and about 1,900 ft. in height. It eastern part is ex-
tremely irregular, barren, and destitute of water, and the surface of the north-
eastern portion is thickly strewn with large angular pieces of stone, as if
broken with a hanmier. Several species of cactus and some of the coarse
grasses flourish, the latter giving sustenance to large numbers of sheep. Santa
Cruz Island is composed of coarse, dark grey sandstone, crumbling and rotten,
like that of Anacapa.

This island was called Juan Rodriguez by Fcrrclo, who commanded the ships
of Cabrillo after his death, which took place either in Prisoncr'a Harbour or in
Cnylcr's Harbour (Island of San Miguel).

SANTA BARBARA CIIANNJiL.

^h3 group comprising Santa Cm, q ^ ^^"^

---' - -iea Saa Leart^^:.^;: ^:2 ^^ '^ ^-^^> - c.i.

ISLAND OF SANTA ROSA.

This ,s the middle island of fh«

;'"-t-n of tl.e longer axis aim" e^.^ r"' "' "" "'"'''' '^''^^' ^^^^Z
J-gth; and the shorter North "nds'^- ' ""' '''^■•^'- -' ^ 2 miles i,
-tent of shore-line . about ^ l"' 3'" '''"'"' '' ' '"'^^ ^^ ^ ^^^^^Z

About a mile northward of tho \' w ■
^y 10 ft. water over it, w l^^Xt "/ ^^^^ '^'^^ - coral reef, .i,,
dangers are believed to exist eastw d of , 'r'" ""^^'"^ °"lv, and ot r
from Fmder Boek. off the N W " t . ''■ ^' ^''' 'i ""1^' N- by E Tl
a mile northward of ,> • , ' ^ °^ '^""'"^ ^o^'"*- and at thm *

- -ke it dangerous. ''''^'' '''^^'' ^^ ^he strong currents. ^C

^^ the shore, ^ut' rtLl^^tl^^^tr ".^"^^"^ '^ ^ ^^^^
il- outline of the island is bold "1 1" ""^ "'^^"- ^'^ --h decn

height of about 1,200 ft. The m' ;'"„" '' " '^"^'^ ^'-' "-"' o a
-"' ^-^-. It i3 ,,,, ,,,, n. t ;:,:f "^- -'^ -vered wuh eoars^g^L
arc steep and broken. The «ouH '""■' '''''' '""""'^ ^^s shores J

long. 120- 4' W* '°"^'^ J^''^"^ °f the island is in lat!Tj 53 ^ '

In Jiec/ier Hay, on the N P ^-^

P ■> 01 fu,l,„„,, „,,j ,1^^,, ^^___^_^ ,^,^^ ^^ »ul, U.|,,, ox,e„di„g into

MUHD OF SAB HlOTOt.

.This ,s the western of the S.nt. U ,

':!i^^^^^i!i:ij^ ^^ « -- X ":;;:' ''""^' ^^^ ^-- '-^

•oTT " ' -. _________J2_ "" average breadil, „f

• '■i Q

,1 r' ■ •

226

THE COAST OF CAIJFOKXIA.

2i miles. The extent of sfeore-liiie is 21 miles. Its western extremity is hold
and narrow, gr.uluidly increasinjj in lire idth until it iittain.s '.i^ niile.s. As seen
from the Houth-westward, this end oT tlu' island iipix-ais to be several liundred
feet in luMght, and contpcMed of sand dunes, therein diliering from all the other
islands. J'he eastern face »»• nearly straif^ht for 2 miles ; the southern face is
nearly strai}i;ht alonp it.** whole length, with liii!;h ahru])t shores; and from
.'}() to 37 fathoms wsrt/'r is found elose inshore breakers extend about 1^
mile rt«*awnrd of the wwitern end.

(Jn the N.M. side of iSti*' wland i.s the ■•niall bay ealled 'ui/lcr llurhottr, ••■ff
which lies a roek or islet, more than a quarter of a min' long, and several
hundred feet high. l''rom this islet to Che head of the harbour the distance is
IJ mile, and the oourse S.W. (,"lose under the western side of the harbour
there is anchorage in 6 fathoms, secure from fvery wind except the North,
which rarely blows here. The eastern part of the bay is full of rocks and
reefs, and ought to be avoided. The reef in the middle of the bay bear'* S.W.
from the West end of the i.'ilet, and is distunl half a mile : it is the same
distance from the West point of the bay, near the anchorage, m\<i bears
K. by S. from it.

At one-third of a mile S.W. by 8. i S. from the West end of the islet is a
rock, and rocky bottom, an<l on the same line is another, h.alf a mile di.stant.
The soutyiern part "f the i.slet i.s about half a mile from the East shon' of the
)jay. The bay shores are high, steej), and rolling, and covend with coarse
grass and bushes. There is no water here in summer, but during the winter
water drains down the gully at the beach in the middle and southern part of
the harbour.

The western point of the i.'-'iaud hi ars S by K. \ V,., distant 2.0 miles from
Point (!oneei>eioii, and H.V,. by 'S. i S . distant o') miles from Point Arguelio.

Sheep and some stock have been phu .d upon San Miguel, but the success of
the experiment has been doubtfid, certainly unremunerative.

The mouth of the stream in the S.W part of Cuyler JIarbour is in about
l«t. M' 2' J.V' N., hmg. 120° 16' W. It is high water here, on full and change
(corrected estaWiiAment), at 9'' 2o'" ; spring tides ri.se 5 ft. 1 inch, neaps
2 ft. 9 incheK,

San Miguel was 4'i.s<^6\'ered by f'abrillo in 1512, and f'uyler Harbour is
supposed by some to be the bay in which he winttred. He died January 5th,
1.043, having directed I'artolome Ferrelo, his pilot, to assume the command
of the expedition. He culled the island Juan Uodriguez. It is sometimes
called Han /kr«ardo. Cuyler Harbour was named by the U.S Coast Survey
in IK') 2.

Iii('hor(lsf,n Hoik, nhpwing wetl above water, liett X.W. by W. 4J miles
from the W(,-.ti in <x'ri .■«/ '/f San Jifiguel ; it bears S. ^ E., distant %'l miles,
frntii I'oint (Joncepeion. iiul S.J^.E, distant 30 miles, from I'oinf Arguello. A
rei-r cxt'-nds a short distanee around it. iCihon Ruck, a similar roek, lies

"as disr

".'"•n ron

"■•a I her

'■■"idi/ig is

"I the »„)!

'""lid f,

'i"'fn milr

'*'■" places

■^"'1 in niai.
'i'"'fa mil.
''"c;>fourth

SAX wjfi oms.^0.

„,, „^. 'y ''•"'■'' ''etweeu them.

The COAST, from Point r

-Tthwani of Point r„? "*"^'^J'"""' "orthward.-Th. first 1 n ,

"' i oint Coricepeion s />„,•„/ ^ „ ^"^'^^ ''('a'/Iand to the

••.n.1 l»ar;„s N.W. h, ^■, , w T 7"'"° "' ^'l^"'"'- ''"'•.^t ,j,°

-- "- - .». ™ .,.: ,■:;: ::i;: ;:■;■■■ ■■; «-„.„,, ,tj::i;::

-^'->n . abo„t ono-,o,„,|. .^ ^ f T " '^ ''"'"^ ''---"• off whin,.

"'«/ / edernx/rs, si-nifyi,,,, ]>,,;„. f vr '"' " '""««•" or, the-

'^'^^>mR.fi of ^„„|.,,;ii^ ,. -y''^' '""-",ta,ns fall i,,,,k ,,,!,, '"'"

I'' roimwi of sftruiliiii^ , - """""''»" Iwck unrHl, i,

'■""'""»"• -"'"■"« -.«■.,„'„, ,wLu:L ■'";:■' '■"" •'' ■'•<■ "1 »

. 1 - M "^^iHitn-

SAW LUIS OBISPO (I 1
■'l"'n ronfi,st<.a<I, opposed ,o tK "^ ''•' ''"" ''^«^'>'' ^anto^ „ • *

rf-'^ '-^./roii;-: ,.::,rt-''' --' -- "•.n,.;;;:„.;y;-

'" ^''« »«"uth of the oreek k '.'.oi " ■"''-^^''ieaWe. I,„t tho bent 1

w:--

> *'

§m

.;!}

f 'I

i?V

SSI

'••

228

THE COAST OF CALIFORNIA.

be got about a quarter of a milo from the beach. In winter anchor far enough
ovit to clear Point San Luis, if a south-easter should come up. During southerly
weather landing is frequently effected at the watering-]ilace when imprac-
ticable at the creek.

An automatic signal Whistle hmy is moored in about 14 fathoms, off the
harbour, with Whaler Rock bearing N.W., northerly) distant 1^ mile.

The distance from Whaler Rock, off Point San Luis, to the mouth of the
creek is about 1 J mile ; from the same rock to a white rock bearing E. by
N. f N. the distance is 2^ miles ; and a black rock lies half-way betweien the
white rock and the mouth of the creek. Whaler Rock, or Island, off San
Luis Point, is in lat. 35" 9' 28' N., long. 121" 45' W. It is high water
(corrected Citabliishment) at 10'' 8"; springs rise 4 ft. 10 in,, neaps 3J^ ft.

During the survey in 1874 a sunken rock, with 14 ft. over it, and marked
by kelp, was found to lie 1 1 cables S.E. by S, ^ S, from the end of People's
Wharf at Avila,on the X.E. side of the bay, and 13 cables E. bj' N. ^ N. from
the shanty on Whale Rock.

Oa the West side of the bay is Harford wharf, extending into 12 ft, water,
with sorae buoys off it, and on the opposite side People's wharf extends into
3 fathoms from the \i;lage of Avila, A railway extends from Port Hartford to
the town of San Luis Obinpo, which takes its name fiora the mission of that
name, founded September 1st, 17v2, and situated about 10 miles in the inte-
rior, in the middle of an e.vtensive and excellent grazing country. From San
Luis Obispo the railway extends to the southward to Los Alamos, and is to be
continued to Santa Barb>ira. Communication is maintained with San Fran-
cisco and other ports by regular steamers Jinrl lines of sailing packets.

To the nortliward of the bay of San Luis Obispo the Monte de Buchon rises
to a height of 1,183 ft., and is readily distinguished in coming from the north-
ward or southward.

At IC cables S,W. \ W. from the shanty on Whaler Rock, off Point San Luis,
is a small ledge of rocks with 18 ft. on its shoalest part, on which the sea
seldom breaks, even in bad weather. At haif a mile N.W, \ N. of this ledge
is another, on which there are detached heads with 18 to 24 ft, water, on which
the sea breaks in bad weather, Xeitlier of these ledges is marked with kelp.
To clear them, keep Sea Lion Rock (between Point San Luis and Point
Buchon) its width open from the farthest point of land to the westward,
until the nearest rocky bluff F.ast of Avila opens eastward of Whaler Rock.

The U.S. Surveyors were informed by old otter hunters on this coast, that a
sunken rock exists about 8 miles S.S.W. from Point San Luis, and furthermore
that thev had found kelp upon it in 4 fathoms. On the old Spanish charts an
island appears laid down in that direction, but distant about 8 leagues. One
of the Pacific mail steam-ships luid-to in a S.E. gale, and thick fog, off Point
Concepcion, and. drifting to the northward, came unexpectedly upon a simkcn
rock, upon which the sea was breaking heavily. The commander supposed

fiAY OF SAN SIAfKoX.

the vessel to bo then off Poin^ So! o i , , ^^^

but upon being i„ronned of^hV^ ^^^ f "'' "''^ "'='' "P- ^^
^>b'«Po, he was satisfied that he h " bo. '"'' ""' ' '"'^^ "^ San Lu s

7""^;:^-^'^--.in,his;;:t:^^° -. ,. ^ut unrortnnat..,,Ld ::

^e coast trends abruptl, to the Xort Vur/T """"^ '"^^ ^'^^^■•^- ^^'-e:

-;^M.tan.sn.K^,esot...ci;;::rs^^^^^

J, ° seaward base of Mount

From Point Los Esteros to H ""'''"•

«".tod to „g,i=„„„, » »■"■••■}• of „„ g,^, „,,^,^.^^^^ ^^^ '-■|;3

SATofSAIf SUTEOK-Thi, ;
;*-;l'lvB„.d.„e„ „, '; ' -™»I .yo„d ™d.,o„d, ,,„

-- -ho, .„,„ie„ „', .t : :: r'*: ' 7 f-'-. »»nd „p:-c-

•"■'«l"ns .-oil „„,, and ,e„d„i„,. .,, L,,, "^ '«-'■ - >"" » mil. ,o„,
•-of ,ho ,a„U beach .ho »h relt^T" """ "' "" >-* "• ^

r^'f^Sc .a southerly weather. ^^^ ^"-^ »^-d« „ot ti. .h'^hte.t

yi-ijeisiiaimssaii.

-lilfa~si:-VtTrn-,

I'll

^^1

' 1

i
i

, i

■ 4'

2d0

TIIK COAST OP CALIFORNIA.

this part of the coast. The geographical position of the outer and larger rock
is lat. 35° 39' N., long. 121° l.")' W.

The Lighthouse on the point N.K. of Piedras Blancas is a conical white
brick building, 90 ft. high, showing a Jtxcd and Jlashing briyht light, with a
flash every 1.5 seconds, elevated 170 ft. above high water, and visible 19 miles.

About l.J mile North of I'iedras Hl.mcas, and inside the outer edge of the kelj)
line, is a rock, bare at low water, on which the barque Harlech ('as//e was lost-
It lies nearly a mile off shore.

From Piedras Hbmcas the coast trends N.W. J W. for a di.stanee of .57 miles,
in an almost perfectly .straight line. At a distance of 18 miles from these rocks
the above-mentioned bearmg cuts a bold bluff and rounded point called Pttnta
Gorda, off which, and for 2 or 3 miles along the shore northward, there are
many rocks. 'I'his point is the Cape San Martin of Cabrillo. As there is one
point under Cape Mendocino, more generally known as Punta Oorda, it is
recommended that this point retain the name given to it by Cabrillo, especially
as iill his names have been cast aside.

Continuing on the same bearing, and at a distance of 49 miles from Piedras
Blancas, is Point Stir, sometimes called Lohns, making out nearly half a mile,
and on which it is proposed to erect a lujlitlmuse. As seen from the North or
South,, at a distance of 11 miles, Point Sur appears as a large high, round-
topped island; but upon approaching it a low neck of land is seen, connecting
it with the main. It is in about lat. 30° 20' N., long. 121" h^' W. In April,
1874, the S.S. J'enfura ran upon some rocks about a mile northward of it. 'J"he
highest peak of the range bordering the coast lies 6 miles in from Point Sur,
and attains an elevation of 4,414 ft.

Still continuing on the same benr'ng, 57 miles from Piedras Blancas, and 7.)
miles from Point Sur, another slight'y projecting point is pa'^sed, about a mile
to the eastward of the course. Thence the course trends more to the no- th ward,
running N.N.W. for 8 miles to Pofnt Cypress, and passing Point Carmcl, the
South point of Carmel Bay.

The mountains, which had fallen back behind Los F,steros, gradually approach
the shore-line North of San Simeon, and about 10 mile North of Piedras
Blancas they come down abruptly to the coast, and run parallel with it to Point
Carmel, forming one of the bnidest and most compact shores on this coast, and
attaining a uniform elevation of nearly 4,000 ft. These mountains were called
by Cabrillo the Sierras Alias, but at present the range is known as the Sierra
dc Santa Lucia. From their abrupt faces cascades may be seen falling from a
height of 40 or 60 ft., directly into the sea.*

• On the opposite or eastern slope of tho ridi,'o is the valley of S.tlinas, through which thii
Rio Ituen.i Ventura flows. Thi! llill^i iiro rendon d much morH fertile hy tfinir i|)ii8ure to
the fogs and mists of th" coast, which supply thorn plentifully with moistiiri", ind this i.i
leen running in many rills down the hill-sides. Th3 valley of Salina* ie 50 miles in length..

nbou

soutl

tectci

and s

Frant

out bj

bay, i,,

J)oiiit 1

trees a

sent a

'ihe

the bay

distance

POIN

with wji

I'f'ck.s niii

wlien th(

■10 or 46

a niilo int

denly as c

as a very

northern t

I.ucia, e.xi

I. wis Ohi.sfi

The lig

of the gro^^
J' -ml bright
•'""g- 121" t

a'l'l ha.s an uv.

l"wcr end is or

'"jftoni being f

f'T .stock farms

iiilla iiro covore.

'i'ho rivor hai

'">"• receives th(

.Monterey. 'I'h,

'■'ill.", some 2,00(

•''^"'•'l'n^' I;.rgo a

"■''-■. =ind tJ„! moi

' .H

'^'■^ta„o<. , ,„i,,, ^'^"^-'^1 d"-ect,on of tl.e shore is N . , '"'

POINT PIWOS , ^ •' ""^ ^^^

■rijvub makes ouf n<, ^ i

"" ' "''''''' '^ '■« eovored. ^i^i^" ! """'^'"^' 1'-"^. bnn,.-,.. ^he , •
'wks make out n n, * 'i"'''"'^'" "<"" "lilo of fhn ; '""'''•

- — * *' '»

""'i ha., a„ average wid,h of 6 or 7 iTT — ~.

"""■ -0 2,00. „ ': ""''■ "'■' "•"• "''«■*■.., i,i : z r""'' "■ "■" "'v of

i^'j ■ .

;;;.;:' -1.

I-

,1 I

:.«' it!

( 232 )

THE BAY OF MONTEREY.

Point Pinos forms the S.W. point of this bay, and Punta de la Santa Cruz
(forming the western shore of the anchorage of Santa Cruz), the N.W. point.
A line joining these two points runs N.W. by N. ^ N. 19J^ miles, and the greatest
width of the bay, near the mouth of Salinas River, is 9| miles.

From Point Pinos to the anchorage off the town of Monterey the course is
K. by S. ^ S., and the distance 3 miles. The shore towards the town is rugged,
composed of granite, and covered with a heavy growth of fir ; but to the cast-
ward of the town is a long sandy beach, backed by sand dunes of slight eleva-
tion. For a distance of 10 miles along this beach the line of 3 fathoms lies at
a distance of 1 50 yards off shore, the water deepening rapidly beyond that, and
the bottom almost everywhere hard.

The only part of the bay in which vessels can anchor in security is near the
southern part, off the town. To bo protected from the sea it is necessary to
lie at no great distance from the S.W. shore, whence, either at night or in the
morning, the prevailing wind allows vessels to leave the bay. Notwithstanding
north-westerly winds are common, there are few instances known of their being
80 violent as to risk the safety of well-found vessels. The soundings are regular,
from 30 to 4 fathoms, sand and mud.

Vessels coming from the northward, bound to Monterey, follow the coast
from Point Afio Xuevo to Point Santa Cruz, then run well into the bay, but
not too far, for fear of losing the wind, and to avoid the set of the heavy swell
rolling towards the beach. Leaving Point Santa Cruz, and keeping on a
S.E. by E. course about 15 miles, will bring vessels into 25 fathoms, and
nearly 2 miles from the beach ; thence a South course for 8 miles will bring
them to the anchorage in 10 fathoms, and half a mile from the landing.
These precautions arc necessary, because Point Pinos, with the whole bay, is
almost continually enveloped in a dense fog. Very frequently the coasting
steamers have to run for the beach, and then be guided by the route to the
anchorage.

A direct course from Point Ano Nuevo to the anchorfige is S.E. i E., and the
distance 36^ miles. From Point Pinos to Point Ano Nuevo the bearing is
N.W. i W., and the distance 34 miles.

By anchoring well in at the western side of the anchorage, vessels will avoid
much of the swell that comes in with the heavy N.W. winds, but never suffi-
cient to make any berth there dangerous. In heavy southerly weather Point
Pinos breaks the swell, but the wind draws very strong over the anchorage.
The water shoals from 15 to 3 fathoms in a distance of 300 yards, and the lead
should be used to avoid running in too far.

When the California mail steamers stopped at Monterey they frequently ran
outside of Point Pinos, or in very dangerous proximity to it.

}

TITE RAY OF WOXTEREY.

Tt,«* « ^'^<-^>iEREY.

The town of .Afontorov present, n 233

^«ter. I,„mediately behind /^ ''''^' ^'■'">' «W<^arance a« «oe„ f
fiilJ and vallov „ ^ , *^° country rises in r,l * ^'■°'" ^''e

"""''.V) .-.. I..i„,„o .,„. 3„. ,;f-" "'""' ««»<«m-l,„„,c at 5fo„, .

-.u™, Monte.,, .„„ «',.;" *:'?r''^ ^>' » "rio., „>if • *";,;"".

I'rom Its mouth vc-h;^u • , " ^^ ^^o^^ WnernlKr j ^ucna-

to the X.N.W ThJ . °"'°' ^^"^ '^'^t'^H'^o is o. J'''' '" *^ ^"^ranee to
^''■^tanee of 7 or 8^ , '"''* '""^ ^^^'W. nearly s r , ' ^ ""'"^^ ^'^'^

North of Salinas liLr r ' ''''^' "'°

tl^e settler spots unsurpasrfrn'f^'^'^^^^ -Stable lands aff r
California. ^ ^ ^""^ Productiveness, even in ., ^^ording to

Jja rerouse sax's " I />,,„ . ~__

f""nded, nor yot their f„ •, '^P'"'' '^° """ibor of xvh 7 ~ ^—

effect from whal,.,s, but tho inJ T ""^ '"^'^^ '" ^he air W f 1" ^"^' P'^'^^-^ot of

Many w... woretir^ X'cr-^"^ ''^ ^ -^H Sr r '''"^-^-e;
resort of that animal- .),„ T, ^" *^^'=°''ff« Simpson in lfi4o V.""-

T''e whale has boon knoCn to t T ' ''''''''>■ ^-^- '' '"' '« «°--

--"-ndalmo^ttosuffocat^ thZX^^ '""•"" ^'--"'o- -U th

AorM /^«ci>. * '^^ «t«nch. ''"'* ''"' report of a

2 II

■4

•if

i/t

%■

1 1 '

:i : I^BMptfXf

Pi^

IS 5

It:

234

THE COAST OF CALIFORNIA.

discovered, and to some extent traced out in this bay. The head of the valley
iH five-eighths of a mile South of the mouth of Salinas Kiver, and the 20-
fathoms line is only a quarter of a mile off the beach, the depth increasing to
50 fathoms in the next quarter of a mile. At this distance from shore the 20-
fathoms lines are three-eighths of a mile apart. The general direction of the
valley for the next 2 miles is 8.W. ^ W., whore wc find a depth of 117
fathoms, and the SO-fiithoms lines lie about five-eighths of a mile apart ;
thence the valley runs about West, reaching a dopth of 17 J fathoms in a mile,
and 210 fathoms in SJ miles, with 42 fathoms less than a mile to the North of
this. The soundings arc not numerous enough to trace its outlines in deep
water, but the indications are, that for 10 miles of its length it runs nearly
S.W. by W. i W., with no bottom at 315 fathoms. The only available boat-
landing upon the beach of the bay shores is at the head of this submarine
valley. There are no indications on the land of this peculiar formation, except
that at its head the bay very gradually reaches its greatest easting.

The extensive valley, called the Salinas /'/nm*, through which Salinas River
flows, extends inland from the eastern part of Monterey Bay. It has been
before alluded to on pp. 230-1 (note).

SANTA CRUZ HARBOUR.— This harbour or anchorage is at the N.W.
part of the Bay of Monterey, and is of very limited extent. It is protected
from all the winds from the northward, but expo.sed to the full sweep of the
southerly gales, and many coasters have been driven ashore during the winter
season. It is about three-quarters of a mile in depth northward, by IJ mile
East and West.

Light. — At about 100 yards from the extremity of Santa Cruz Point is a
white tower, 35 ft. high, rising from the keeper's dwelling, from which is
shown ajixed red light, elevated G9 ft., and visible 14 miles. In approaching
from the northward the light will not be seen until it bears about K. f N.

Vessels coming from the northward, after leaving Point Alio Nucvo, follow
the coast-line on a general course E.S.E. for about 18 miles. The shore for
this distance is abrupt, rugged, and moderately elevated, with a range of high
hills, or mountains, whose summits in summer are all almost continually en-
veloped in fog. Skirting the shore at a distance of half a mile, a depth of from
G to 10 fathoms can be carried; and upon making Point Santa Cruz, the top
of which is moderately level for some distance back, 4 fathoms is obtained
within a quarter of a mile of it ; round up and run along in 5 fathoms until
abreast of the beach, where good anchorage will be found half a mile from the
shore. Vessels from the South in summer keep well into Monterey Bay, to
escape the full force of the north-westers and the l.^avy head sea.

During the winter months anchor well out, so as to be able to clear the shore
westward of Point Santa Cruz, in ease a south-castor springs up.

Landing on the beach is generally disagreeable, as it extends out some
distance, but boats usually land at the embarcadero, at the foot of the bluff in

yellow c

about 3(

I'oint its

100 ft.

The cons

the hills

southwan

Ano Nue\

On the

thick or fo

From P

^'I'l/eon Pox

^oUa. 'I'll

enijnies the

P'^tcnt. Foi

l^'wJ is f Jiai

''ii' base of t

The underiyi

The IIGi

brick tower,

J'OIXT ANO NUEVO.

the N.W. part of the harbour. Theh.n.- ' ^^^

I'ajaro country to San P ^"'^ abundant frei.^ht fm V ^""

'I'lw, f , ^ *° »an Francisco, wifh w)„nJ. •. • . *" '°" 'lere and tJiP

^'- owuha«apopulationofab ut3 00 1 ^''"""^ , ^^ ''«

^ '0 h.gh mountain. N. 2.3^ E iL ' I ? " " '^^'°""'*-' l-^thin/plaer
>'^-A. and is 3,791 ft. hi,h. ' ''' ""''' ^^^ «-ta CVu.. is aa.V ' ,I„,
It 's high water here at I OM 8".. •

xie,n^ swell from the N W .>„,i i • ° ^ °tt'cted somcwhnf n, ■

r»tat Ano Bue.o-A. « "■« i-W of .

taOft. hiL'h. TJnnn ♦)„■„:. , . ^"'" ""^'^red with a ,.„.._ j .

J'''fe'g'

about 30 ft high u„ ■ •■ " *'" "t"'" "vcred J'h . " '.'""""" °'

'"";^o^f..y weather sounds abastof";^ '^ ''''"- ^^^ ^^^^'•-^. which in

I'rom Point Ano Nuevo th. '''°"^'^ «t intervals of -^^

^''y^o« /'o/,,^ o ,„;, " ^^- '^"•''^t runs to the N W / ""' °^^^ ^^^onds.

^■'1«. 'i 'h ; '" '^^•""'^ -'-'> - the rock, Lfnt ealM t"' ' "''^« ^«
/"e high mountain, 13 miles Kv w "'^'^ the T^w,,/,, rfw„

it I

^>.

.%,

IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)

1.0

I.I

1.25

*" 111

2.0

U III 1.6

Photographic

Sciences
Corpordtion

23 WEST MAIN STREET

WEBSTER, NY 1 4580

(716) 872-4503

t/i

2dC

THE COAST OF CALIFORNIA.

10 seconds, elevated 150 ft. above high water, and visible 18 miles. At 100 ft.
West of the lighthouse is a sieam Fog Whittle, which in thick or foggy
weather souuiIj a blast of 4 seconds, at alternate intervals of 7 seconds and 45
seconds.

From BoLa Point to Pilhr Point or Punta de Corral Tierra, forming the
S.W. point of Half-moon Bay, the general direction is N.W. by N. ^ N., and
the distance 18 miles. h.t 3^ miles above the Piseador opens the San Gregorio,
another small stream, and 2^ miles still further is the Tunitat. The seaboard
between the valley of the Piseador and that of the San Oregorio undergoes a
striking change both in the character of its topography and its geology. Instead
of the table-land we meet with a spur of the coast mountains running into the
sea, and having nn elevation of 600 ft. within a mile of it. The shore-line and
the coast generally present a very rugged and broken appearance, occasioned
by the deep gulches cut through to the ocean.

HALF-MOON BAT.— This anchorage is 6 miles S.S.E. from Point San
Pedro, and 18 miles S. by E. from the Golden Gate. The south-western point
of the bay is formed by a bluff table-land, about 160 ft. in height, called the
Corral de Tierra, 325 yards South of which stretches a number of black rocks,
which show ns one when seen coming up the coast, but as three or four when
approached from the N.W. The largest is nearly as high as the bluff, and
locally known as Sail or Pillar Rock. The point is known as Pillar Point,
and from its 8.E. extremity rocky and foul bottom, marked jy kelp, extends
S.E. \ E., seven-eighths of a mile, dropping suddenly from 14 ft. to 5 fathoms.
This is the inner reef, nd makes the bay available as a summer anchorage.
At IJ mile S.E. from the same part of the point, a narrow ledge of rocky
bottom, one-third of a mile long, and marked by kelp, stretches in the same
general direction ; its S.E. extremity was marked by a black buoy. The
passage between this outer and the inner reef is three-quarters of a mile wide,
with rocky and uneven bottom, from 3^ to 10^ fathoms. These ledges lie
parallel with the coast mountains, and with the shore-line, from which the outer
one is distant Ig mile.

From the eastern extremity of Pillar Point the shore runs N.W. by N. for a
quarter of a mile, to a short wharf; then N.E. for three-quarters of n mile,
curving to the eastward and south-eastward in a long bend for 2^ miles to the
mouth of the Arroyo de los Pillarcitos, down which com?8 the only road cross-
ing the peninsula of San Francisco, between the Laguna dc Mercedes and Santa
Cruz. The highest part of this road, which crosses a depression of the penin-
sula, is near the Coast Survey Station ridge, which is 1,0'J3 ft. above the ocean,
and but a few feet higher than the road. The outer reef is nearly abreast of
the Pillarcitos, from which the coast runs South 4 miles to Miramontes Point.
which is S.E. J E., 5 miles from Pillar Point ; thence to the mouth of the
Tunitas the distance is 4 miles S.E. The greatest extent of the bay may be

HALP-MOON BAY— POINT SAN PEDRO.

iil

•aid to be between Pillar and Miramontes Points; but the part near the
former only is available.

The soundings between the rocky ledges and the shr iC are quite regular,
decreasing from 9 to 3 fathoms, at less than a quarter of a mile from the
beach, with sandy bottom, llie passage to the anchorage is between the inner
and outer reef, with the high, bare-topped mountain bearing about N.E., and
in line with a house known aa Widow Wood's. This bearing also leads up to
Amesport Landing, a wharf reaching into 6 ft. water, a short distance from
the house. This mountain is steep, with straggling redwoods on its flnnks,
and the summit bare. It is locally known as liald Pate; but on the Spanish
grants as Cumbra de las Aurat. When inside the reefs, beat up until Pillar
I'uint bears about S.W., distant half a mile, and anchor in 4^ fathoms, hard
sand. With southerly light winds a heavy swell sets in ; but upon Uie
approach of heavy S.E. weather, it is necessary to go to sea.

The muss of redwoods cresting the mountains of the peninsula ceases
abruptly abreast of Miramontes, and only stragglers are seen to the northward.
They are a good mark for recognising this part of the coast when coming in
from sea.

Around Ilalf-moon Bay is a limited extent of agricultural country at the
seaward base of the mountains, and small coasters carry the produce to
San Francisco.

About 1 mile along the coast to the north-westward is a small boat harbour,
100 yards wide, formed and protected by outlying rocks, and having 3} fathoms
in it, used as a whaling st^ition in the autumn months..

At 2J miles N.W. by N. of Pillar Point is Montara Point, on which is a
steam I'off Whistle, which in thick or foggy weather is sounded for 5 seconds,
followed by an interval of 25 seconds, and then a blast of 10 seconds, followed
by nn interval of 10 seconds. Point San Pedro lies 3^ miles to N. by
W. i W.

Point San Pedro lies N.W. by N. i N., 30 miles from Point Aiio Nuevo,
and S. by E., 1 1 miles from I'oint Lobos, at the entrance to the fiolden Gate.
It is a black, bold, rocky promontory, over 500 ft. high, having a high, large,
jagged rock ot the northern part, and is a promir.ent and excellent mark for
making the entrance to San Francisco. The principal rock is neorly 100 ft.
high ; its South face is white, and shows the line of stratification plainly.
From the West the dip of the strata shows about 60 degrees to the northward.
It is connected with the main by some low rocks. Haifa mile to the N.E. of
the point is the valley of San Pedro, from which the point takes its name.
From I'oint San Pedro the whistle buoy off the bar of San Francisco is distant
about Hi miles to N.W. J W. A lifeboat is stationed on the coast between
Point San Pedro and Point Lobos.

The range of mountains forming the north-eastern short of Monterey Bay,
and extending to Santa Cruz and Point Ano Nuevo, is called Santa Cruz,

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238

THE COAST OF CALIFORNIA.

Tbencc northward to the Golden Gate, and forming the peninsula of San
F mnciNco, by bounding the bay on the West, the mountains arc known as the
San Francisco or San Bruno range.

SAN FRANCISCO.

Ilic port of Snn Francisco was discovered as Inte as the year 17G9, and that,
too, not by the obviouH mode of such an expedition, but by one overland.
Perhaps one reason why it had been so overlooked by navigators is, that its
narrow entrance is so fre({uently hidden by fog. In 1767, when the Jesuits
were replaced by the Franciscans, the Viceroy of Mexico, the Marquis de ('roix,
finding that Kngland and France were taking an interest in these countries, as
evidenced by the expeditions of Cook and Bougainville, and that Russia, too,
was steadily progressing from the North, proposed to the ecclesiastics the
colonization of tlii. territory. Accordingly it was divided into districts, and
missions were planned for San Diego and Monterey, the only two ports then
known to exist in the upper province. Three vessels were despotched from
San Diego, but were eminently unfortunate, from the fact that the N.W. or
()pj)osing winds blow during three-fourths of the year. Under these circum-
stances the remainder of the distance was undertaken by land, and though the
explorers did not recognise what is now Monterey, they made the far more
valuable discovery of the inland sea to which the name of the patron saint of
their order, and of sailors in general, was given.

The mission was founded, and its progress had but comparatively little to do
with the external world, and this little commercial importance was all but
annihilated by the revolution in 1836.

When Capt. (afterwards Ucar-Admiral) F. W. Beechey surveyed the har-
bour in 1828, the place had but a few wretched adobe houses at Verba Buena,
occupied by indolent half-breeds, with not the slightest indication of the won-
derful capabilities which were soon after to be developed. History affords no
example of such a sudden rise in importance as California. Scarcely a niDiith
had elapsed after its annexation to the United States before the gold diseuvery
by Capt. Suter and others was made, and very soon after the desolate harbour
of San Francisco became crowded with shipping, bringing an immense influx
of gold-seekers, and the ships, three or four hundred in number, laid there,
deserted by their crews, and in some eases by their captains also. But this
influx of people has left behind it the permanent advantages of a settled
population, and there can be no doubt but that San Francisco, the Queen of
the Pacific, is destined to be one of the most important centres of civilization
and commerce that the world possesses,
liesides the immense territory of which it is the commercial and political

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creased by the

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SAN FRANCISCO.

enpital, and ita vaat power, „f . 239

the N h.,,, ^-^«e^„;;irr:;r :;" """"""-'' ^^^ — or

Ch.„a Japan, fcc. and the „u„,erous Lo '" "'^" ^"'^'^'^ «»«»«, „„.,

and fro. this port oa a centre is o„ "f 1 T ''"™'" *'*''' "°" ""'
1 .ere are reguW services of »ai. , eal " 7^' "''''' P^^"* -"tury

;-d.,thetraZ,n^:-X:;;;^Portanee .as ^1:::::^^-

- ".ost remote part of the world ^h Fur ' " ""^^ ""'"^^ ^ -n^^ et
't« population amounted to 131 000 n 7'''°" '"''^' '"''^ travel. In 18«7
;» 233.066. and it no. stand f'^I J^' ^''^-^ "^ 1««0 it had incre^^^ J
- '-"'ue of its foreign impor^LT^, ' '''''' ""'"'^ ^^n - ^4 d

rn ,883 the total value of foroi,;" "^ V" f'""' ""' P°P"'"t'--
by sc-a amounted to about £7.538 542 of .^ ""^"^^^ '"^^^ ^an Francisco

«r.tam;andoftheren,ainder £3 83, 875 "'"'l ^««-^-««« came fro„ Q Z
"1 ra»v silk and tea TK« *"^'«'^'.875 came from Japan anrl ri • .

("ryn port,, „f .,,,„j ;^W ta,„.g» ., 523 2„^ ^__

»m„i„ .till h„d, ,,,„ i; '"«'•■ "S.rss tonnage, ,.„ Briti.h „

".600 ton,, Austmlin, 162 20O ,„„. v °' "" '*«"• 'k™ Mo, Zh

■iheaetcreatinjrtheflMf P.-« T^ " — -— ^ •""pre-

^ound to co.plete'herte r : '""'^'''^^ ^^ ~"

than three times that rat« T, "'* °^ '"^ ""ile" a year- fh ^'""'"'"Pany were

«--«hed at the en' JTse^ZT""' '" ""' ''' ^ '^^ CetrPaXr^' " ""^'^
"< given in Dr. Boirg <■ V J '"^°'"'* «' 'h« Progress of .hi ^'°''- ^* '^a'

from thence the OrcLn . ^ "'"^ ^ ''^ ^""tern termiZ ^ n ' " '*'"*'*'"=« ''^ 2.«5

j.'-l^!

340

THE COAST OF CALIFORNIA.

<; II

paring a bill to present to the legislature now in session, reducing the rates of
pilotage considerably.

" The construction of a sea wall or quay, 4,500 ft. in length, has been of
great advantage to the port. Vessels of large draught can load and discharge
nlnngside, and the erection of sheds on it, 2,000 ft. in length, affords every
facility for the efficient handling of grain, which is allowed storage for fifteen
days."— Afr. Consul Booker, 1882.

At Hunter Point, about 4 miles S.E. from the central part of the city, is a
graving dock excavated in the solid rock ; it is 450 ft. long, with an entrance
90 ft. wide, admitting a vessel drawing 22 ft. at mean high tide. The
charges range from 32J to 25 cents per ton per day for steamers, according to
size, the latter chnrgc being for vessels of 4,000 to 6,000 tons. Sailing vessels
over 500 tons pay 40 cents per ton for the first day, and 20 cents per ton each
day following. There is also a floating dock close to the dry dock, capable of
taking a vessel of 1,400 tons, and another smaller one in the northern part of
the harbour.

San Francisco is ill-placed, as far as mere building facilities arc concerned.
When the first houses were built in 1848 and 1849 they stood on a strip of
beach around the Cove of Verba liuena, and at the foot of the steep and lofty
sand-hills. Dunes and cove have disappeared together ; the hills have bcon
shot bodily into the bay, and the former harbour is now the business quarter
of the city. One great danger on this coast all its cities share in common ;
several times within the present century the spot on which San Francisco
stands has been violently disturbed by subterranean forces.

The Contra Costa range is unbroken but by the single gap of the Golden
Gate, and through this opening the cold winds rush in a never-ceasing gale,
spreading fan-like as soon as they have passed the Narrows. Hence it is that
the Golden Gate is called the "Keyhole," and the wind the " Keyhole Breeze."
Up I'ountry they make it raise the water for irrigation. In winter there is a
calm, and then the city is as sunny as the rest of California. — (Sir) C. Went-
worth Dilke, M.P., 1868.

Although the entrance is easy, facilitated as it is by the excellent lights and
buoys Which define its prominent points, or point out its few dangers, we give
unabridged the directions drawn up by the U.S. Coast Survey officers in 1862,
modified, of course, by the changes which have since been made.

The OOLDEIT OATE is the entrance to the bay, and presents the character
of a great cleft or fissure in the sea-coast range of mountains, thereby connect-
ing the Bay of San Francisco with the Pacific Ocean. In approaching it is
difficult to imagine that a deep channel lies ahead, so clear is the atmosphere
and so well defined the Contra Costa Mountains behind the bay. Both shoves
are bold, broken into points, and rocky ; but the northern is much the
bolder, rising almost perpendicularly from the water, attaining an elevation of
about 1,000 ft. but a short distance back, and in 7 miles rising to 2,600 ft.

^" ^'^ South ,;cio f ^"^ ^^^^''^^^^^-Pomr r r.r.

''«'■"'""<«' about a : ^ "''"'• '"""•'^ 300 ft hTh . '""' '••^' '^^^ Point «
•"'"••"r to an Z.;:*^' "'• " '-ie to the ,y'), ","" r^''""'..' fro„ t t,.

:r'^ '"« ^'utr ;:: x^^f^ o„ thf wt?„;;r;; ";^ ""'-•' or ::

"'."^ »"y i>ortio„ of aw, '"" "'^ ^ ^"'l""." rt "''^^»^""''^- There

""""'d by the eurroal ? '''' ''"' struck the bL^ ".";'•"'' ""^ '-t o„
'"^«- P-n, 5 to 6 2 ""' ''" P°'"*. »nd then '"'"'' *'"^ ^'-^ •• ^va^

'"• the pofnt. '-"-- -n be feu„, „„ ev ' ' "^^ "^ ''- "" th« ou

,.^^*«Xi,htho«.eo„theSW '^"^""'"- «'•''• ofan,,;.

,, . ^•' JoiiL'. 122° 11' . , 'WJconds. 'ii„. ■■ , , "• "i'»tner m

^ o'nt bears K i v , ' ''^ ^\ and fr • ''-''«''ou.sc « ,„ , ,

°f *« point, .„d eoZ r 'I' "'»"' • l-'fcr „r „ „, ,

"'j;^..!...., „,,„.'' ""' """■ H'k hiu. Win, ;': '• . "p «»•.., it ,■

°'^/' «» u: rTr''°°' *-- " » 2;:;: ■"."««' « c

^«c'fic coast was over .J, "* t^H'raphic „,. '"""'^^ ''"n to the

'"•« the 3 mil,, „r "'7' ''""■ng i„ „,„" ]""'« the »„tr„„„, ,.

W«k, jaggod r„„i,,

242

TUK COAST OF CAMFOUNIA.

about dO ft. high, but all within the fi-fathomt line, and closo inxhore. Thoj
are called Stal RocKm, being much fre<{uented by iieulg, and one of them shows
a large arch from particular directions. The outer one bears from Point
lionita S.K. by S. ^ 8., and is distiutt ^| mil s. On tho cliff opposite the
rocks is Cliff House, a favourite resort of the people of San Francisco, 6 miles
distant by road.

From the outer Seal Rock tho general trend of tho shore runs in a N.N.E.
direction fur nearly a mile, to a short, jutting, high point, off which lie Mile
Hooks, and hero a Uffhoat is stationed. From this point the shore runs well to
the eastward for a mile, gradually trending to the North for 1 \ mile tn Fort
Point. In the deepest part of this bend the shore is low, with small hillocks
rising from the general surface and slope of the hills, and fronted by a long
sand beach.

Mile Rockl. — These two rocks lie northward of Point Lobos, a sV ort dis-
tance within the limit of the entrance of the Golden Gate. They are small,
near each other, and have a height of 15 ft. above water, *ith u good depth of
water all round and close to them ; but the current twirlo and eddies about
them in such a manner as to render a near approach anything but agreeable
or safe with a light wind. The inner and smaller rock is one-third of a mile
N.W. by W. of the small juttiug point inside of Point Lobos, and very nearly
2 milc8 S.W. ^ S. from Fort Point. Vessels running in on the line of Fort
I'oint and Alciitraz Island, pass less than half a mile from thj outer and
linger rock. The rocks bear S.E. \ E. from Donitn light, and distant nearly
1| mile. They were called "One Mile Uocks " by Uccchey, in November,
1826.

Fort Point was formerly a bold, narrow, jutting promontory of hard
serpentine rock, 107 ft. above high water, and surmounted by a small Mexican
fortification, called Fort Blanco. The view from the point was one of the
finest in the harbour ; but the whole headland has been cut down to within a
few feet of high water, and increased in area to form a large fortification.
Upon the hill side rising behind it arc houses for the accommodation of the
garrison and workmen. Eastward of the point is a long substantial wharf,
constructed for receiving stores, ordnance, &c.

Several sunken rocks lie close off the point, the two outermost, with 9^ and
11 ft. over them, lying respectively 113 yards N.W. by N. and 120 yards
N.E. by N. J N. of the lighthouse. These rocks are especially dangerous on
account of the violent eddies of the tidal current in the vicinity of the point, a
close approach to which should be carefully avoided. A buoy is moored well
outside them. Several large vessels have been lost on Fort Point, by venturing
too close during light airs and strong irregular currents. The ebb frequently
runs at the rate of 6 knots.

The Lighthoase on the N.W. bastion of the fort on Fort Point is painted
whice, and shows a fixed bright light for 1 minute, foUowutl during the next

m:'
Ap(

abn
T

alm(
went

depti

SAN FRANflSCo IIAIIBOUR.

243

minu.^ by four consecutive red JIaihu, clertted 83 ft., and visible 1ft miles.
According to the Rurvcjr of 1877 the lighthouse is in Ut. 37° 48' 32* N., long.
12*2" 28' 3C" W. The South Farallon light ia visible from a vesacl'a deok wb«n
abreast of Fort Point.

The fog bell at Fort Point is on the eastern side of the lighthouse, and
almost toucliing it. The bell weighs 1,002 pounds, and during fuggy or thiok
wentlier is otruck by machinery at intervals of 10 sccondi.

The Bar off the entrance to tlie Hay of San Francisco, in 1H74 had a leost
depth of 4 j fathoms at the lowest tides. Its general form is that of a horse-
shoe, commencing 4 miles southward, stretching out gradually to G miles
abreast of Point Lobos ; and when nearly up to the parallel of Poi.it lionito,
running inshore towards that point, and forming the Four-/ufhom$ BanK, tw in
a distance of 4 miles down to 1. The average breadth of the bar within *hi
limits of the G-fathoms curve is abaut 1 mile. It falls off outside to 10 nud 12
fathoms in half a mile, and deepenH gradually inside. Not less than ' ^ lathuras
exists over the bar, when Point B«nita light bears between N.K. by K. ^ L.
and N. by W. \ \\ *

The fairway over the oar and the approach to the Golden Gate i« markjd
by three hlff- and white striped conical buoys, moored in a lisie about
S.W. by W. from the inner part of Fort Point. The outer one is an automatic
Whistle buoy, moored in 15^ fathoms, outside the bar, nearly 8 milcH
S.W. J W. from Bonita Point lighthouse, ond 10 miles S.W. g W. from Fort
Point light. The middle buoy is m 9^ fathoms, about 5^ miles within thr
outer buoy, and the inner buoy is moored in 20 fathoms, about midway
between Bonita and Lobos Points, and 2\ miles from the middle buoy.

A hell buoy is niooieil in alumt « fathoms, a short disfanoe S.E. of a IJ-
fathoms patch on the southorn part of the bar, at JiJ miles K. | S. from tlic
Whistle buoy, with Point Bonita lighthouse bearing N.N.E.

No vessel should anchor on the bar if she can possibly avoid it ; frequently
a heavy swell sets in without wind, and if the current is running strong ebb,
it allows little chance of escoping from an uncomfortable berth. The U.S.
sluop-of-war Vincennes anchored on the bar in a calm, and when the flood
tide made it brought up a swell, which broke over her.

The flood-tide makes on the bar about 61 minutes earlier than at San
Francisco.

It has been given as a rule for steamers approaching in thick weather, to
run for the bar as nearly as they can estimate, keeping the lead going until
they strike 5 fathoms, and run on until the depth is iuci ■'ased, when the

* On June 19th, 1882, tho S.S, Uteambia capsized and sank on the bar in 5^ fatkom», at
5^ miles S. by W. } W. from Bonita Point light hoiine. To mark the ppot, until the wreck
is removed, a Ml buoy, painted in red and black suipett, is moored in 6 fathoms near the
wreck, with Bonita Point lighthouve beuiiug N. by £. ^ E., 6} miles, and Fort Point light<
houEtN.E. {N.,6imiUi.

* 1.' I ' ' 5 f ■

.' -ii

K t-

In '•

I.;

I-^

244

THE COAST OF CALIFORNIA.

armed lead should bring up gray sand with red specks, and they may con-
clude themselves within the bar. Recently it has been intimated that these
peculiarities of bottom exist also outside cf the bar. The pilot boats cruise
outside the bar.

The fog sometimes stands like a wall, outside of a line from Fort Point across
the eutniiice, while the buy inside is beautifully clear. After the greatest heat
of the day is past, this fog creeps in and envelopes land nnd water.

Four-fathoms Bank. — llie eastern extremity of this lank is about a mile
westward of Bonita Point, with a depth of 7 to 1 fathoms in the channel
between, which is frequently used when the bar is impassable. The S.E. end
of the bank is marked by a black conical buoy moored in 5^ fathoms, nearly
li mile S.W. by W. J W. from Bonita Point lighthouse. At about 3 miles
W.S.W. of this buoy is a similar one on the West end of the bank, but this
cannot be depended on.

The shores of the Golden Gate. — Oh the North side of the Golden Gate the
shorts are very j)recii)itous, with an occasional short stretch of sand beach at
the base of the blutfs, affording a beat landing. Point Diablo is the first
point iaside Bonita, and bears N.E. by K. 3 K., distant IJ mile from it;
between these the shore is indented about three-quarters of a mile, affording
a boat landing during smooth weather for the lighthouse people. In the
vicinity of Point Diablo the faces of the cliffs show of a reddish purple colour.
The red specks found on the bar are doubtless derived from the disintegration
of these reddish cliffs.

From Point Diablo the shore is jagged and irregular to Lime Point Blttff,
495 ft. high, distant 1 mile, and bearing N.E. f ¥,. Off this point are several
high rocks, but they are so close to the bluff as to be distinguishable only from
certain directions. From Lime Point Bluff to Fort Point the distance is
barely a mile, and the bearing S. by E. J E. This is the narrowest part of the
Golden Gate. Thence the bay begir.s to open well to the N.E.

On Lime Point is a Fog Whistle, which in thick or foggy weather sounds a
blast of 10 secouds at intervals of 30 secends. This was established in
September, 1883.

On the South si4e, eastward from Fort Point, the shore is low, flat, and
marshy, to Point San Jose, distant 2J miles, and bearing E. by N. Thi»
point is moderately high, with a few houses clustering upon it, and is locally
known as Black Point. Off this reach was the " outer anchorage " of former
navigators, and the Presidio of San Franeieco is seen a short distance
behind it.

Frem Point Stm Jose to North Point, at the base of Telegraph Hill, the dis-
tance is 1 mile, and the bearing E. | N. All this space forms part of the city
of San Francisco, and is covered with houses. The shore here is denominat d
the North Beach, and from about the middle of the lowest part projects a
long wharf over the flats to 3 fathoms water. This has naturally cau-scd a

6AN FIlANCiSCO— A1.CATRAZ ISLAND.

great deposit around it, and now only 4^ ft. of water can be obtained at the
N.W. part of the wharf at mean low wator. There is first-rate anchorage in
9 to 12 fathoms, abreast the city, either above or below a space set apart for
the traffic of the Oakland ferry-steamers, and a telegraph cable.

Telegraph Ilili rises to a height of 301 ft. above the mean level of the bay,
and is covered with houses to its summit wherever building room oau be ob-
tained. There was formt'rly a telegraph or semaphore on it.

ALCATRAZ ISLAND and Light.— This is the first island that is opened
in entering the Golden Gate, and upon it is erected a lighthouse. The island
is nearly 600 yards long, in a W.N.W. and E.S.E. direction, by about 2G0
yards in width, and rises to an elevation of 135 ft. above high water. The
summit is fiat, fulling away gently on all sides for some distance, and then nt
the sides dropping perpendicularly. Deep water marks exist all round the
island, and, with the exception of one or two places, the sides are so steep that
a landing is effected with difficulty. Extensive fortifications are constructed
upon it. At the S.E. side a small pier has been built to receive stores, ord-
nance, and materials. Off the N.W. part foul bottom makes out about
300 or 400 yards, and on this a conical buoy, painted in black and rtd bands,
is moored about three-quarters of a cable from the island.

The lighthouse is built on the summit of the island, and bears N.W, from
Telegraph Hill, distant 1§ mile ; from Fort Point N.E. £ E., distant 2 J miles.
The light is Jixed bright, elevated 166 ft. above the level of the seu, and should
be seen from sea at a distance of 19 miles.

The frame-work supporting the Fog Bell is built on the S.E. extremity of
the island, close to the water's edge ; the bell is struck by machinery f«ur
blows at intervals of 9 seconds, followed by a pause of 28 seconds.

In the entrance, within the line from Fort Foiut to Lime Point iiluff,
there are several hidden dangers.

Presidio Sheal, having 3 to 3 J fiithoms least water on it, lies 1 J mile inside
of Fort Point, and bears N.E. by E. i E. from it. It is about 700 yards long
within the 4-fathoms curve, very narrow, with sandy botttom, and has deep water
all around it. Its general direction is on the above-mentioned bearing. From
the shoalest part, which is near the centre, the I'rcsidio flagstaff bears S. ^ E.,
and a conical buoy, painted in black and red bands, is moored in about 5 fathoms,
close southward of it.

During the detailed survey of the harbour, a ridge, with less than 7 fathoms
on it, was found to extend in an irregular curved line from the N.W. point of
Alcatraz Island to tht Ejist end of Presidio Shoal, with an average width of
3 J cables within the 7-fn thorns line. The shoalest spot yet discovered on it
has only 22 ft. watsr over it at the lowest spring tides ; this lies in the regular
track of vessels, and is a danger to those of large draught. It is about 100
yards long, and lies nearly 4 cables S.E. by E. \ E. of Bird Rock, and
6i cables S.W. by W. J W. from Alcatraz lighthouse. With Bonita Point

>v.n

l^t;

:;> ji-,':. " \

^^r^^^^T.

246

THE COAST OP CALIFORNIA.

old disused lighthouse in line with the extremity of Diablo Point, W. by
S. ^ S., a vessel will pao8 2 cables South of this shoal spot, and will cross tho
ridge in about 5^ fathoms.

Anita Rock shows above wnter at low tides, and is situated 1 1 mile inside
of Fort Point, and bears E. by N. from it. It is only 300 yards from the low
beach, and has deep water close around it. An iron beacon, bearing a cage,
painted in black and red bands, stands on the rock. Vessels should not
approach this beacon within a cable's lungth, as a strong current sets across
the rock; It was named after the United States quarter-master's barque
Anita, which struck upon it.

Bird or Arch Rock is a small pyramidal rock, ab«ut 45 ft. in diameter, 18 ft.
high, and bearing W. J S., distant seven-eighths of a mile from the lighthouse
on Alcatraz Island. When seen in the direction from or towards Presidio
Shoal, it presents a perforation at low tidc«.

Skaff Rock is a low white-topped rock, about half a mile N.N.E. from Bird
Ilock. From Alcatraz light it bears W. by N., distant 1 mile. For about
300 yards towards Alcatraz Island the bottom is foul and irregular, but outside
that limit 10 fathoms is found. The rock shows about 4 ft. above the highest
tides, being then not more than 8 or 10 ft. in extent.

Blossom Rock is a ledge which originally had 5 ft. on it at the lowest tides;
in 1870 it was removed by blasting, and there is now 4 fathoms at low water
over the site. A conical buoy, painted with red and black bands, is moored on
its N.W. side. Vessels should not approach this buoy from any direction
nearer than 2 cables, as there is a heavy tide-rip in the locality. This ledge
bears E. by S. from Alcatraz light, and about 1 mile distant, being almost
on the line joining the South points of Alcatraz and Verba Buena Islands.
From the summit of Telegraph Hill it bears N. ^ W., distant 1 mile. It
was discovered, and named by Captain Beechey, R.N., after his ship, in
November, 1826.

TERBA BUENA ISLAND is the large high island opened to the East and
South of Alcatraz, after entering tlie Golden Gate. The western point of this
island is If mile N.E. by E. of Telegraph Hill. Its peak is 343 ft. high ; the
sides steep and irregular, and rising to a ridge running nearly East and West.
On the western or San Francisco side the water is very deep close inshore,
but from the N.W. point a 3-fathoms bank extends 1 J mile N. W. bv N.,
spreading to the eastward for half a mile, and thence running to the N.E. point ;
for about half a mile northward of the island this bank is very shallow, with
M little as 1 foot of water in some places. In early times this island is said to
have been densely covered with wood, and was known to navigators and whalers
as Wood Island. Now it has but a few scrubby trees.

The Lighthouse on the S.E. point of Verba Buena Island is a wooden
tower, 22 ft. high, painted a light buff colour; it shows a /red bright light,
elevated 97 ft., and visible 15 miles. In fo^jy weather a IVhistle, in front of

the
n 61
rea(

Cre,

out

wha

the

San

are

the

enouj

I' *k'

SAN FRANCISCO— OAKLAND HARBOUR.

247

the lighthouse, is sounded for 4 seconds, at intervals of 16 seconds ; in case of
a sudden fog a Bell is rung at intervals of 10 seconds, till the Steam Whistle is
ready.

Oakland Harbcnr. — Opposite the city of San Francisco is San Antonio
Creek, leading to the town of Oakland, and to the northward of this, stretching
out to within two-thirds of a mile of Yerba Buena Island, is a long railway
wharf or mole, with 5 fathoms water at its outer extremity. This wharf is
the terminus of the Central Pacific Railway, and passengers and goods for
San Francisco are ferried across in large stcam-vcssels. Extensive wharves
are also constructed near the mouth of the creek, and this will probably be
the railway terminus, should the works at the entrance form a channel deep
enough for sea-going vessels.

"The work of improving this harbour is being energetically carried on
by the U.S. Government. The training walls or jetties, running from each
side of San Antonio Creek, are to be 9,500 ft. and 12,000 ft. long respectively,
running out into deep water. Another year's work will probably complete them.
There is, for a width of 300 ft. between the training walls, a channel 10 ft.
deep, and for 100 ft. wide the channel is 14 ft. deep. To get the action of the
tide for the purpose of keeping the channel open, a canal has to be excavated,
conncctinj? the head of the harbour with San Leandro Bay. An English
vessel, drawing 16 ft., reached Oakland Wharf in 1878. At the end of the
mole, IJ mile from the mainland, the Central Pacific Railroad Company have
built a magnificent depot or station, which was rendered necessary by the
enormous local and increasing overland traffic." — Mr. Consul Booker, 1882.

Above San Francisco the harbour extends about 24 miles to S.E. by E.,
both shores being bordered by a large extent of shoal water, especially on the
eastern side, between which a comparatively narrow channel runs nearly to
the head.

ANOEL ISLAND. — When passing through the narrowest part of the
Golden Gate, this large island bears about N.N.E., and is seen as an island for
a very short time when in the narrowest part of the Golden Gate. It has an
irregular and bold shore-line of about 5 miles, and an area of one square mile.
It rises to a height of 771 ft., is covered with grass and bushes, and cut in
every direction by deep gulleys. As seen from the south-eastward it appears
part of the northern peninsula, but is divided from that en its N. W. face by
Raccoon Straits, three-quarters of a mile i.i width, having a depth of water
ranging from 1 to 30 fathoms, and a very strong current. A narrow, high
jutting point makes out from the S.E. portion of the island, bearing N. J W.
from Alcatraz Island light, and distant 1 1 mile. From this head the general
trend of the southern face for over a mile is W. by S. toward ^aucelito Point
on the mainland.

Punta de los Cavallos is half a mile N.N.W. from Lime Point Bluff. The
Hhorc-linc between them falls slightly back, and a very small valley makes down

liii^^i

248

THE COAST OF CALIFORNIA.

•%:

from the hills behind. From Point Cavallos the general trend of the shore is
N.VV. by N. for IJ mile to Point Sancelito or Saucelito. At a mile from Point
Cavallos is the anchorage of Saucelito, where men-of-war and whalers formerly
anchored. It lies abreast of the little town of Saucelito, whence much of the
water used in San Francisco was formerly taken in steam water-boats. North
of this anchorage is a large bay, with but a few feet of water. From Saucelito
a railway extends about 8 miles to the town of San Rafael, situated up a
creek leading from the head of the shallow bay of San Rafael, opposite Son
Pablo Point. From thence the railway branches off to the uorthwaru and
westward, the latter branch extending to Duncan's Mills on the Russian River,
passing by Tomales and Bodega Boys.

From Saucelito Point to the western point of Angel Island, the distance is
IJ mile, and the bearing N.E. by E. ^ E. To Peninsula Point, forming the
south-western part of Raccoon Strait, the distance is 1 mile, and bearing
N.E. i E.

Off the eastern s.Je of the harbour, opposite Angfl Island, a shallow bank
extends, the 3-fathoras line reaching 3J miles off tlie shore. Nearly in the
centre of the upper part of the harbour, to the N.E. of Angel Island, is
Southampton Shoal, marked by a beacon at each end, and a mile farther on
some rocks extend from the eastern shore the outermost being named Red
Rock. The deepest and widest channel is westward of them.

At 5i miles N. by W. i W. from the North end of Angel Island is San
Pablo Point, on the East side of the entrance to the strait of ihc same name.
At 2 aad 3 cables W.S.W. of the point are the two small Brother Islets, on
the eastern of which is a lighthouse. Some rocks lie to the eastward and
southward, as shown on the large scale chart.

Light. — On the West end of East Brother Islet is a square light buff-
coloured lighthouse, 37 ft. high, showing a briyht Jlashiny light every half
minute, elevated 62 ft., and visible 13 miles. At 50 yards N.E. of the light-
house is a Foff Whistle, which, in thick or foggy weather, will be sounded in
alternate blasts of 4 second" and 8 seconds, at intervals of 24 seconds. In
case of sudden fog a Bell is sounded at intervals of 15 seconds, till the Whistle
is ready.

San Pablo Bay, divided from the harbour of San Francisco by San Pablo
Strait, is nearly circular, and about 10 miles in diameter, the northern half
being a mud flat with only a few feet of water over it, with Petaluma Creek at
its N.W. extremity. On the East side is the channel for large vessels, having
a depth of 4 J fathoms, leading to Karquines Strait.

Light, — On the S.E. extreme of Mare Island, on the North side of the
entrance to Karquines Strait, nfxed bright light is shown, elevated 76 ft., and
visible 1 4 miles. It is not seen when In-aring eastward of E. by N. A Bell is
Bounded every 10 seconds in thick or fuggy weather.

Karquines Strait runs nearly East and West for 8 miles, and is half a mile

SAN FRANCISCO <j

«'«'".*: lit "' "", ^' -i '- .he l^T™:;"" '•°™ ■"^""'•" "

01 ferry-boats fr. *- "Ocramento an,) e ""• ^t is m

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*•>.'- :• M. ^: l!i

250

THE COAST OF CALIFORNIA.

When the moon's declination is North, the higher of the two high tides of
the twenty-four hours occurs at San Francisco about eleven and a half hours
after the moon's transit ; and when the declination is South, the lower of the
two high tides occurs at about that interval. The lower of the two low waters
of the day is the same whioh follows next the higher high water.

The corrected establishment, or mean interval between the moon's transit
and the time of high water at San Francisco, is 1 2'' 6"". The mean rise and
fall of tides is 3.6 ft. ; of spring tides, 4^ ft; and of neap tides, 23 ft. The
mean duration of the flood is f)*" 39"" ; of the ebb, S*" SI" ; and of the stand, 34'".
The average difference between the corrected establishment of the a.m. and
p.m. tides of the same day is 1** 28"* for high water, and 0** 38" for low water.
The differences when the moon's declination is greatest are 2^ 30"" and O*" 48"".
IHie average difference in height of these two tides is 1.1 foot for the high
waters, and 2.2 feet for the low waters. When the moon's declination is
greatest those differences are 1.5 foot and 3.7 ft. respectively. The average
difference of the higher high and lower low waters of the same day is 5.2 ft.,
and when the moon's declination is greatest, 6.1 ft. The higher high tide in
the twenty-four hours occurs aboui ll*" 22™ after the moon's upper transit
(southing), when the moon's declination is North, and about l*" 2"° before, when
South. The lower of the low waters, about 7*' after the higher high tide. The
greatest observed difference between the two low waters of one day was 5.3 ft.,
and the greatest difference between the higher high and lower low waters of
one day was 8.5 ft.

SAILING DIRECTIONS.

For approaching and entering San Francisco Bay. — In approaching the coast
every opportunity should be seized for determining the vessel's position, as
fogs and thick weather prevail near the land. Vessels coming from the south-
ward make the coast about Point Ano Nuevo (lat. 37" 7' N.), and follow it at a
distance of 4 or 5 miles up to the bar. Steamers keep close under the land for
fear of losing it in foggy weather. Coming from the westward, they first sight
the South Farallon Island (lat. 37° 42' N.), with its lighthouse, and keep upon
either side of it ; but it is preferable to go to the southward, especially in thick
weather and at night, as the vicinity of the island has not been surveyed in
dete'l. From the South Farallon lighthouse the Point Bonita light bears
N.E. by E. 23§ miles. Coming from the north-westward vessels make Punta
de los Reyes, 597 ft. high, in lat. 38" 0' N., long. 123" 0' W., with its light-
house, and pass within 2 or 3 miles of it, 1 5 fathoms being found within u
quarter of a mile of it, but vessels are apt to lose the wind by getting too close
under it. From the western extremity of this point. Point Bonita light bears
£. £ S., distant 25^ miles, the line passing over the tail of Duzbury Reef, at a

distance (

cruising r

The pn

Point, giv

nated by I

fort the '

moored ne

line; the

fathoms le

can cross 1

of Alcatrai

shore Sout

the Four-f

of Bonita,

bank the c

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fortunate i:

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The deep

than its wii

narrow, anc

Between

distance is i

deepest wat

vessel to atl

on the bank

small sail b(

in under th(

muddy bottc

The foUov

S. Eardley-A

xi — xii : —

"We ent
Channel. '1
for steamers
opinion for t
1. On cor
Reyes is easi
taking care t
should the w
ble to anchor
Zcalout (dra^
the could not

SAN FUANCISCO-SAILINO DIRECTIONS.

251

distance of 17^ miles from Point Rejres. There are nsually two pilot-boats
cruising off the bar.

The prolongation of the range from the Nerth endof Alcatraz Island to Fort
Point, giving a course N.E. } E. for vessels entering the Golden Gate, is desig-
nated by Sir Edward Belcher " the fair-way line ;" and he calls the island and
fort the "fairway marks." Three fairway buoys, previously described, are
moored nearly on the line of Fort Point and Alcatraz Island lighthouses in
line ; the lighthouses in line, bearing N.E. by E., lead over the bar in 5^
fathoms least water. In clear weather, and with a favourable wind, a vessel
can cross the bar in not less than 4 j fathoms from the line of the North end
of Alcatraz Island just open of Point Bonita, N.E. by E. J E., round to the
shore South of Point Lobos, N. by W. ^ W. Northward of the former line
the Four-fathoms Bank, having 3f fathoms upon it, commences 1 mile West
of Bonita, and stretches out over 3 miles, with a breadth of 1 mile. Upon this
bank the clipper Golden Fleece struck in 18.57, and came into port with 7 or
8 ft. of water in her hold. She was the second of that name that was un-
fortunate in entering the harbour, the first having been totally lost on Fort
Point.

The deepest water over the bar is with Alcatraz Island open a little more
than its width from P'ort Point, N.E. by E. j^ E. ; on this line the bar is very
narrow, and the least depth is 5| fathoms at lowest tides.

Between the eastern extremity of Four-fathoms Bank and the shore, the
distance is seven-eighths of a mile, and within this space can be found the
deepest water for entering the harbour, but it would be dangerous for a sailing
vessel to attempt it with a P jod tide and light winds. While it is breaking
on the bank, only a heavy swell is found through this 8J-fathoms channel, and
small sail boats have passed in safety when they dared not try the bar. Close
in under the cliS», 2 or 3 miles above Bonita, there is anchorage in 8 fathoms,
muddy bottom.

The following remarks on the northern channel arc taken from Lieutenant
S. Eardley-Wilmot's book " Our Journal in the Pacific." — Appendix, pp. vi,
xi — xii : —

•' We entered the harbour of San Francisco by the northern or Bonita
Channel. This has been mentioned before as preferable to crossing the bar
for steamers of deep draught, and further experience leads me to repeat that
opinion for the following reosons : —

1. On coming from the northward at night, or in foggy weather^ Point
Reyes is easily made, and the land kept in sight all the way to Bonita Point,
taking care to give Duxbury Keef a wide berth. After rounding Point Reyes,
should the weather be too thick to keep sight of the coast, it would be advisa-
ble to anchor in Drake's Bay, and weigh the moment the fog lifts. H.M.S.
Zealout (drawing 26 ft.) did this on one occasion, and entered the harbour when
she could not have attempted the ^ar Channel.

V' • I'

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i-i

THE COAST OF CALIFORNIA.

2. When leaving or entering the harbour during, or shortly nftcr, heavy
weather, this channel is preferable as carrying the smoothest and deepest
wattr. The least water is 7 fathoms, just off Bonita Point, whereas on the
Bar there is only 5^ fathoms, which is not sufficient when there is much tea
running.

3. When leaving the harbour during foggy weather, Bonita Channel is cer-
tainly more secure.

The turning between Bonita Point and Four-fathoms Bunk is rather sharp,
and for that reason it is advisable when going out that way to start with the
last of the flood, so as to pass Bonita Point before the ebb makes with any
strength, on account of the strong eddies off Bonita Point.

We moored in about the same spot as on our previous visit, which I con-
sider the most convenient anchorage for men-of-war ; Mission liock bearing
S. 16° E., liincen Kock buoy, N. .M)» W., and Telegraph Hill, N. 61" W.
Care must be taken not to anchor within 500 yards of the shore, as some order
exists against men-of-war anchoring within that disitancc."

Vessels can also cross the southern part of the bar in about 5 J fathoms, by
steering with Round Top and Lone Mountain in line N.E. until Bonita Point
bears between North and N. by W. ^ W., when it can be steered for.

During clear, moderate weatlitr, any vessel can croes the bar, within the
limits we have mention <1, without running until she has got on the " fairway
line," whereby she might lose her slant of wind. Should the wind fail, or be
light, and the current adverse, anchor outside the bar in 15 fathoms, mud and
fine sand ; or after crossing the bar in 6 to 10 fathoms, fine gray sand, with red
specks in some places. Run in mid-channel between the heads, and avoid too
close proximity to the northern shore, not only in entering, but in leaving ;
the high, bold bluffs causing calms and baffling airs, even with a south-easter
blowing out.

Between Fort Point and the opposite shore, take special care not to approach
Fort Point too close, because the currents set round it irregularly and with
great rapidity, and the bottom is uneven and rocky. A depth of 69 fathoms
is given in the centre of the channel. In the Golden Gate an ebb current has
been measured running about 6 miles per heir. As a general rule the winds
increase within the heads, drawing in very strongly abreast of Fort Point.
When off this point steer for Alcatraz lighthouse until the North point of Tele-
graph Hill bears E. by S. ; then steer to give it a berth of a quarter of a mile,
running through among the shipping.

In making the port at night, it is customary to run for the Whistle buoy and
cross the bar with Fort Point light on with Alcatraz Island light ; or better,
the latter a little open to the northward. But this practice frequently involves
much delay and annoyance, when the wind will not permit a vessel to attain
this position without a tack. With Bonita light bearing from N. by W, to
a.'E. by E., a vessel may boldly run on within those limits, and unless there

b-^ a her
a mile, a
light iVo
until th
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the diec« lou
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Steamers
endeavourec
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about 5 fath(
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In beating
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they keep bet
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past which th
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heads. If the
with the wind
Farallones; if
works off to L^
smoother, and
her port.

The Urnds.-
bccn previouslj
the thermomet(
Been, except a 1

l«_ .:^--.-:.

SBI^""™—

6AN FRANCISCO- SAILING DIRECTIONS.

S53

h-* a heavy swell safely cr^ss the FBur-fathoms Rank. Give Bnnita n berth of
a mile, aud when within the heads and Bonita abeam, gradually open Alcatraz
light Korth ef Fort Point, until abeam of the latter ; then run for Alcatraz,
until the lights of the shipping show the vessel's position. Hauling up fbr
them, anchor off the North beach in 10 fathoms, or off the N.E. front of the
city in 10 fal^xoms, soft mud.

In coming uptn the coast in thick foygy weather, sailing vessels should nwt
run into Ichs than 50 fathoms, because the water around the South Farallon,
and off Point San Pi^dro and Punta dc las Reyes, is very bold. Cordell Bank,
however, with 25 fathoms least water, exists at about 20 miles to the westward
of the last. S.W. of the line passing through the Farallones and Noenday
Hock, the lOO-fathonis curve is only 4 miles distant, and the 50-fathems curve
only 2 miles, with a very irregular bottom. If the Farallones be made, a
course can be eaHily laid for the bar, but it would be unadvisahle te run into
less than 10 fathoms, soft mud, if the Whistle buoy be not heard, a& the set
and strength of the currents off the bay are yet undeternuued. Sir Edward
Uelcher says, that being caught in a fog, he anchored in 15 fathoms to the
southward of the bar, and determined " that southerly of the fairway line the
ebb set N.N.E., flood S.S.W." We suppose he means from the N.N.E. and
the S.S.W. During the season of freshets in the Sacramento and tributaries,
the diflct loured water outside the bar will frequently point out the position of
the entrance.

Steamers in thick weath«r were accustomed to run close along the coast, and
endeavoured to make the land North of Point San Pedro, running in until they
got about 15 fathoms, aB<i then laying a course for the bar, shoaling upon it to
about 5 fathoms, and then gradually deepening, while the fog-gun (now re-
placed by a Siren) gave the direction of Bonita light.

In beating out, vessels start on the last quarter of the flood, make the first
tack to the northward of Blossom Rock, and weather it on the second ; thence
they keep between Alcatraz and the South shore, avoiding Bird Rock, 1 mile
West of the South end of the island, and giving a good berth to Fort Point,
past which the ebb current will carry them rapidly (with a strong tendency
towards the South shore), and a couple more tacks will carry them clear of the
heads. If the vessel be bound to the northward, and the weather set in thick,
with the wind to the N. W., she makes a tack ofi' slwre to the southward of the
I'arallones ; if the weather be clear, short tacks are made off shore until she
works off to Los Reyes, because the sea to the leeward of that headland is much
smoother, and the current less ; then stands off until a course can be made for
her port.

I'Jie Winds. — Some remarks upon the Winds of the Coast of California have
been previously given on pp. 20G-7. At San Francisco ice is rarely seen, and
the thermometer never remains at freezing paint 24 hours. Snow has not been
ecen, except a few flakes, with two exceptions, for 25 yeare. The difference in

t>^

lar W'**^

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iKl

tlM'i '■*''*'*

•"Wm'

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S54

THE COAST OF CALIFOUNIA.

temperoture between day and night it seldom greater than 15" F., while the
extreme range between the highest and lowest observations on record is but

rf!

DUZBURT POINT and Reef.— From Point Boiiitn to Duxbury Point,
forming the West siJc of Uallcnas Hay, the course is W. by N. J N., and the
diHtnnce 9| miles. The point, sometimes called Ballenas, is a t^kble-lund about
lUO ft. high, which stretches along the coast for a mile or more, and gradually
rises to a narrow, nearly treeless ridge, 1,389 ft. high at its greatest elevation,
and running in a straight line 25J miles N.W. J W. to Tomalcs Point. The
old Cttlifornians expressively call it the Cuchilla Grande. Parallel to this ridge
on the Kast, and starting from the West end of the great cross ridge of Table
Mountain, runs another to the north-westward, and the depression between them,
abreast of IJuxbury Point, forms liallenas Bay, as it does Tomalcs Hay further
up the coast. This depression forms a lung narrow valley, well watered and
timbered, and in many places cultivated. Two streams running into each bay
have their sources nearer the bay from which each runs.

Duxbury T?*-*/" makes out IJ mile S.E. J S. from the southern extremity of
the point, and stretching towards Point Bonita forms a safe anchorage in
northerly weather. From the tail of the reef to the rocky point E.N.E. from
it, the distance is 3 miles, and from this line to the greatest bend of the bay
the distance is If mile. A buoy, painted in red and black bands, has been
moored in about 6 fathoms, close off the extremity of the reef.

BALLENAS BAT. —In this bay the 3-fathoms line makes off three-quarters
of a mile from the S.E. face of Duxbury Point, but approaches tbe low sand
beach East of the narrow entrance to the lagoon. From 4 to 8 fathoms of
water, with a regular bottom of sand and mud, is found in the bay, and 6
fathoms quite close to the reef. A lifeboat is stationed here. From Duxbury
Point to the bluff at the entrance to the lagoon, the distance is 1^ mile
N.E. by N.

The lagoon North of the bay is at the foot of the mountains, and, except
small crooked channels, is bare at low tides, and filled with small islets. The
South side of this lagoon is bounded by a long, narrow, sand-spit, stretching so
nearly across it as to leave nn entrance of but 100 yards wide at the S.W. part.
Only a few small vessels run between Ballenas or Bolinas and San Francisco.
The bay is a safe anchorage in summer, and the lagoon is readily accessible for
small craft, except in heavy weather.

• " The Weat ; from the Census of 1880 ;" by R. P. Porter, published at Chicago, 1882,
p. 497. Much information concerning the Western States will be found in this valuabls

111
pecul;

Noi
gradui
ing up
of the
action
bluffs,
the sea.
reasons
June, 1,

The 1

Mountai

miles ill!

ward, an

the top o

valley co

appears fj

SIR f;

West end
To the Ivi
Duxbury t
10 miles, t
until it rea
N. by E. i
line curves
Jong, high,
extend hal
Drake's Baj
weather; ai
5 fathoms, h
as the swell

Several es

trancrs are

which stretcl

approaches y

Head. The e

breakers on e

It was named

California. II

trading upon

tJi trance to th

,tr.

.,1

■> ■

i ] •<

SIR FRANCIS DRAKE'S BAY.

2S8

The shore North of Boiiita Point is bold and high, presenting a marked and
peculiar undulating surface at right angles to the sea front

North of Duxbury Point the hard rocky chore continues bold and high, but
gradually merges into cliffc, consisting chiefly of yellowish clay and sand rest-
ing upon granite ; and as the surface is regularly undulating, with the direction
of the alternate ridges and valleys at right angles to the shore, the wearing
action of the surf forms a continuous series of round-topped, bright, vertical
bluffs, averaging 100 ft. high, and presenting a very noticeable feature from
the sea. Its resemblance to portions of the coast of Kngland was one of the
reasons which induced Drake to apply the name New Albion to the country in
June, 1579.

The mountains in the background rise over 2,000 ft., and the " Taolc
Mountain," of Hecchey, attaining an elevation of 2,604 ft., stretches nearly 2
miles inland at right angles to the coast, and forms a prominent mark from sea-
ward, and from the Hay of San Francisco. A few large trees arc seen along
the top of the main ridge, running parallel with the coast and behind the
valley connecting BuUenas and Tomales Bays. The ridge is very sharp, and
appears Hut-topped only in two directions.

SIR FRANCIS DRAKE'S BAY.— From the tail of Duxbury Reef to the
West end of Point Reyes, the course is W. f N., and the distance 17^ miles.
To the Mast end the course is W. by N., and the distance 14 J miles. Fum
Duxbury the shore is bold and compact, running nearly N.W. by W. for about
10 miles, then curving regularly to the westward, changing to a low shore,
until it reaches its greatest latitude at the Estero de Limantour, which bears
N. by K. i }']. from the East end of Point Reyes, distant 3 miles ; thence the
line curves to the southward and S.W., 1 mile West of the point, leaving a
long, high, narrow point stretching to the East, and off which the breakers
extend half a mile. This curving shore-line forms Drake or Sir Francis
Drake's Bay, which affords a large and admirable anchorage in heavy N.W.
weather ; and by anchoring close in under the North side of the point in 4 or
5 fathoms, hard bottom, good but contracted anchorage is obtained in S.E. gales,
as the swell rolling in from the S.W. is broken by the reef.

Several esteros or lagoons open into the North side of the bay, but their en-
trant s are very narrow and shoal. The largest is the Estero de Limantour,
which stretches to the northward over 3 miles, and one of its numerous arms
approaches within a mile of the ocean beach, 5 miles North of Point Reyes
Head. The entrance to this lagoon has 8 ft. water, and is generally marked by
breakers on either hand. Coasters can enter with the prevailing N.W. wind.
It was named after Limantour, notorious for his attempted land-claim fraud in
California. He was a Frenchman, but a citizen of Mexico, and asserted that in
trading upon this coast in 1841, he lost the Mexican vessel Ayachuco, at the
eutiauce to this estero.

IT" 't«i

''.4. ife.-: ""i^jMI:. *1

I* d ? "■.

•>5 »\ V

^•■i/

\ ■ I'

' i, ■ '■: "1 ■•'■'•,1« K

t .

;

356

THE COAST OF CALIFORNIA.

POINT RETES is the most prominent and remnricable headland X«rth of
Point Coneepcion. It is distinctly Tisible from the entrance to San Franciico
Bay, and the aummit of the ridge presents an irregular jag);ed outline, with the
highest pnrt absut one-fourth of its length from the western extremity. Its
southern fece is a precipitous wall of hard sienitic granite, rising boldly from
the ocean, attaining am elevation of .597 ft. in 300 yards, and stretching away
nearly in a straight line K. by N. niul W. by S. for 3 miles. This direction is
peculiar on the coast, and would not bo expected fron a consideration of the
trend of the coast mountains, and of the Farallones, which ^re in line N.W.
and S.E. Oh the North side the cape falls away regularly to a low undulating
neck of land, cut up by estcros making in from Drake B^r. When made from
the southward it is raised as a long, high island, bm on approaching it from
the westward it is projected upon the mountains 'nning North from Tabiu
Mountain, and its characteristics nro not so onsilv recognised. Its base is very
broken and r 'cky, and bordered by crags and hundreds of rocks, but they may
be boldly approached, and 8 fathoms, hard bnttam, obtained within less than a
quarter of a mile. Off the eastern extremity a reef makes out half a mile in
continuation of the point. Upon this reef it breaks heavily in bad southerly
weather, but 9 fathoms can be had close to the breakers. Off the western
head a depth of 12 fathoms is found quite near to the rocks.*

The Lighthouse on Point Reyes, a white tower, 23 ft. high, is situated on
the steep slope of the bluff point, about 200 yards from its extremity. It
shows a briyht flashing light every 5 seconds, elevated 29G ft., and visible 24
miles. In thick and foggy weather a Fog Siren will sound blasts of 5 seconds
at intervals of 70 seconds. Lat. 37" 59' 36" N., long. 123" 1' 21" W. A lifeboat
is stationed here.

Vessels bound to San Francisco from the northward always make Point
Reyes, and, when up to it, sight two mountains on the swutbern peninsula of
San Francisco as island.<i. One of these is Blue Mountain, 1,100 ft. high, the
other Abbey Hill, 1,250 ft.

Curdell Bank. — A shoal had long been known to exist some miles westward
of Point Reyes, and Mr. Davidson made a cast of 30 fathoms in that vicinity
as early as 1853. It is now reported that "the least water found was 25
fathoms, about 1 mile S.E. ^ E. from the central point of the shoal (about 20
miles W. by S. \ S. from Point Reyes). Within the curve of 30 fathoms, the
shoal is 5 miles long, with an average wi'dth of 1^ mile ; but it is 12 miles long,
and 5 miles wide within the 50-fathoms curve. Its longest axis is in a direc-
tion N.W. and S.E., or nearly oa the prolongation of a line through the
Forallou Islands." Sounding within the 30-fathoms curve, the lead failed to

* The hMdlsnd of Panta de Iob Reyes wan diMcovured by CabrtUo in 1542, bnt th* present
name was given by Viscaino, in 1603.

bung u{

up live

broken f

gravel ai

to be in (

The wntc

<l<'j)th of

bahle tha

of this h\u

nnco to vc

swell is i„

I a "3, p. o

SOITTH

islt'ts, knoM

tunce of 2;].

ning N.W.

nearly a mil

sea, and pre

vegetation e

masses, whic

ii])on the nio

Notwithstani

dition of the

fragments by

be imagined.

l)Iainly visibl,

Those islets

which ai-e tal

shores.

Vessels fron
southward of t
the westward (

• 'ilie Farallor
is stated to have
Cabiillo had passt
to effect a landinj

Sir Francis Dr.i
lour or bay, wher

North Pac

- — *-=*^i8n«.»—

TDE FAUALLOXES.

S67

brinf^ up Bprpimcns of bottom, it proviiip to be rocky ; the nrmcd lead brought
up live bnrnaclcH. OutNide of tliis curve there is a deposit of white shcllR,
broken fine. Heyond the depth of (0 fitthomH, coarse black Hand, mixed with
gravel and broken Hhell.', was found. The general set of the current appeared
to be in a southerly direction, witli a velocity of about 1 to IJ knot per hour.
The water gradually deepens from the shoal t-iward the mainland, attaining a
depth of 7l) fathoms, after whicrli it shouis again toward the shore. It is pro-
bable that deptliH of less than 26 fathoms may yet bo found within the limits
of this shoal, it will therefore receive further attention, because of its import-
once to vessels coming from the northward in thick weather. A change of
swell is rapidly perceived upon the shoul. — Mtrmnlik Murine Mayaune, July,
1»73, p. 201.

THE FABAIL0NE8.

SOTTTH FARAILON,— The southern and principal one of the six rocky
islets, known us the Farallones de los Frmjles, lies ofl'thc CJolden (iate at a dis-
tance of 'J;Ji miles ; the whole group is disposed in ;i nearly straight line, run-
ning N.W. from the southern one. This is the largest and highest, extending
nearly a mile East and M st, attaining an elevation of about IMO ft. above the
sea, and presenting to the eye a mass of broken jagged rocks, upon which no
vegetation exists, excepf a few stunted weeds. The rocks are sharp angular
masses, which, becoming letachi'd by the operation of natural causes, roll down
upon the more level parts of the island, and cover it with irregular boulders.
Notwithstanding that it is the outcrop of an immense dyke of granite, the con-
dition of the superficiiil portion is such that it could be separated into small
fragments by a pick or croivbar. A more desolate and barren place can hardly
be imagined. From the hills about the Golden Gate the South Farallon is
plainly visible, rising in regular pyramidal form.*

These islets are resorted to by immense numbers of sea-birds, the eggs of
which aie taken and sent to San Francisco. Sea-lions frequent their rocky
shores.

Vessels from the westward, running for the Golden Gate, should keep to the
southward of the South Farallon, especially in thick weather and at night. To
the westward of it a depth of 50 fathoms is obtained at a distance of 3 miles.

* 'ITie Farallocen do los Frayles were discovered by Ferrolo, in February, 1S43, and he
is stated to have seen six islun'.s in this vicinity, one large, and five very small, which
C:ibiillo had passed on the previous voyage. He states that for five days it wad impossible
to etTect a landing upon them, on account of the S.W. winda and heavy soa.

Sir Francis Drake is the first that specially mentions them, in 1679, as Ijnng off the har-
hour or bay, where ho refitted his ships.

North Pacific. 2 I.

■I < , .u ' n

S':-\

.1 'W '

vv ,

■ ..„.<■■

1 -1 *

'W'^:": ■■vMi'^^ km

258

THE COAST OF CALIFORNIA.

shoaling to 20 fathoms in 2 miles ; whereas inside of it the hottom is very
regular at 30 fathoms for 10 miles, and then decreases regularly to the har. On
the S.E. side of the island there is said to he good holding-ground in 15 fathoms.
The San Francisco pilot-boats cruize off the island.

South Farallon Light. — The tower stands on the highest peak of the prin-
cipal island, and is built of brick, 29 ft. in height, surmounted by a lantern and
illuminating apparatus of the first order of Fresnel. It is a revolving bright
light, showing a prolonged flash of 10 seconds every minute, elevated 360 ft.
above the mean level of the sea, and visible 26 miles. Lat. 37° 41' 49" N., long.
123*^ 0' 4" W. "^oint Bonita lighthouse bears from it N.E. by E., distant 23 J
rniles, and Point Reyes lighthouse N. by W. J W., 17f miles.

At 200 yards 3 K. by S. J S. from the keeper's dwelling is a Fog Siren,
which, in thi'iV or foggy weather, will give blasts of 5 seconds at intervals of
45 seconds.*

About half a mile S.E. J E. of the lighthouse is a rock of 6J fathoms, on
which the sea breaks in heavy weather. The pilots also report having seen
oreakers on a rock between the South and Middle Farallones, and supposed to
Qave only 3 or 4 fiithoms over it. Breakers have also been observed in heavy
(veather on a 5J-fothoms rook, lying 2\ miles W. by N. J N. from the light-
aouse, and about half a mile S,W. by S. f S. from the Middle Farallon.

The MIDDLE FARALLON is a single rock, between 50 and 60 yards in
diameter, and rising 20 or 30 ft. above the water. It lies N.W. by W., distant
2 J miles from the lighthouse on the South Farallon. Its geographical position
is lat. 37° 43' 31.6" N., long. 123° 1' 54.9" W.

The NORTH FARALLONES lie nearly in a line with each other and the
Middle and South Farallones, and consist of a group of four islets, having a
pyramidal appearance as their name denotes, and comprised within a space of
little more than half a mile square. T'he northern three are quite high and
bold, the highest peak of the middle one attaining an elevation of 166 ft., whilst
the southern one of the group is a mere rock of about 35 yards in diameter,
and hardly 20 ft. above water. Viewed from the S.W. or N.E., breakers ex-
tend across from the largest island to the next one S.E., and during a heavy
ground swell it has been seen, from Point Reyes Hill, breaking on an isolated
sunken rock, lying apparently between the northern and largest islet. From
certain directions a small pyramidal detached peak shows close to the North
side of the northern islet. The northern islet, 160 yards in extent, bears

CiS'J

* In JHnuftry, 1859, a Fog Whistle, of 6 inches in diameter, was placed on the South
side of the easttrn part of the island, about 27r) ft. from the water. It was erected over a
natural hole, in the roof of a subterranean piis8H{j;o connected with and open to the ocean,
and was blown by the rush of air through the passage, caused by the sea brealdng into its
mouth. It is said to have been hoard at the distance of 7 or 8 miles. It was probably re-
moved in 1880, when the Siren was established.

7 ^^>"110NK._.Oo..n.v BOOK.

Vv .- fill __> /ii

At 2 miles to the south-eastward nfll T' ^''^''' ^^ ™'I<^«-

eV"t: r "^"' ^-•■'^^ '^^o- w^e'r "r-- ^^ ^» ^^atod that
ce - whe„ torn away by storms. I„ Jj ''T ' ^"^ ^^^P "''^^nd it. ex-

visible when directly over if T '* '''* "^^^^ '"^ water If ;« , ,

in the description of the South P.v.i)
-g San Francisco, we have hemof! "f ' "' " '"^^ ''-^^-^ ^or approach
Gate at night and in thick ZZl T'^ ""'^^ ^^P^-^-^ the JoTd t
^aiallon light. This advice has nol ^'^ '° *^^ «°"^'^^-d of the s' ft

With Punta de los Keyes andr;:::^:^-- -^ ahouldltllor
-mnb^tween them should keep tt^^^^^^^^ ^ound . and

the rock w H bear 8 P r . ^ ^ ^he Golden Gate fn *u .

''Par a.h., distant 2+ piii,,- r ■ •'" *^at position

South-west of thr> )• aial-

• It waeiyjporteii, Jflnuan- ISRt .k^! '"~ ^

' •*"' "^•> long. 137° 30' W.,

pa PI,' o'^Slu

. f '>; •' '

' 4 '

■I Aed Jiaci'

'I *

* Hfo ro-

Hl*^

TTIK COAST OK OAMI'OIIMA.

P ¥ ■} I

■' ,p

POINT T0MALE8, Nortlnvmd of I'undi .Ic l.m UrycH is n l,.nK ronoli .)f
brond wliil(< hpikI lioiuili, liiK-kcil liy nuihI iIhhcn, itiiil cxtciKiiiiK in ii N. J I''.
(liri'clioii iilioiit. I'JinilcH, (Miiviii^^ lo (li<* N.W,, iiiiii <<liiiii^iii|j; to ii liigli pri'-
<M|iit(iiiM cimsl, niiiniiiK to I'oiiil. ToiimlcM, wliicli liciirH N. liy W., l') iiiilfN IVum
I'oiiil iloyi'H. 'riiii-('-(nmilcrH of ii inilo bcfiiit' rfiirliiii)^ tlic |iiiiiil ii nicUy iNlrl,
80 fl. in lifinlit, is hvvu close iiiNliorc. At rt iiiilcN ikl)uv(t J'*t)i«t Koyi'M is llio
opoiiin); to iin chIito, the Norlli poiul of wliicli in low anil Niimly. 'I'lic wider
arm rniiH 1 iiiiio towuriln tlio lu-mi of tlif wi-Ntcin hriinch of llm I'lHtcro do
Ijiinunlour, and litllo nior(> tliitn tliiit diNtunco from it; tlio oilier nrni riiiiN
nearly 1) mile to tlu> north -went ward. The ridji^e forn)iii<{ TotnuloH i'oiiit and
tlu' wi'»tern Nhorp of Toniiilefi Hay ii« tlu' noitliern cxtrwinity of thiit Ntarling
fioni |)iuhiiry I'oinl. Aliout Ii iiiileN from the |)oint the ri(l^;e in CiT.'t ft. hif^li,
witli Nli^hlly hiW(M' p;roiiMd a few niilcN Soiitli. It in wliere the sand dnneH
Ntrikc tliin ridKe that tlic eoast ehun^en itn eliaraeler ; thence (o tlie iioint it in
lioUl and roeUy, witli hrcaluMH al)out one third of a mih- olf the point, and on
llio proh. Illation of tlie ridge, wliich avcra^uM li'HN than tliruv-ijuarturH ofuiniio
in hreadlh for tlie hiNt t inih'H.

The BAY of TOMALES extends from TonuilrN I'oinl S.K. J Iv for I'J,!
inih's, willi nil avcriigr widlli of fii-ven-einliliis of a niih\ 'I'lic entrimee is
narrow, and ohHtrued'd hy a har lia- in^i; a dcplli of 10 fl., h.-tween Mandy huni|)s
of 7 ft. The bar Vwh nearly half a mih^ l'',aNt of the cxtreint point, and -lOO
yards from tlic blutlH. It is exposed |o the fnll force of the N.W. swell, and
with I he least swell from scawai'd i( lireaks ne,-oNN I he whoh> eiitranee. l''or '2
or •'< miles this hay is contriwted, hiil hus a narrew deep channel elose under
the western s'iori>. At ■! mih's within ihi' ])oint lies n Ntnall island near the
middle oi the l)ny ; hryond it the depth of water lieeomes more remilar. The
*harcN are thickly scllli'd willi peo]ile i'n|4;.ij;ed in iinricultni'd | (irsnilH.

The railwHy fram Nuiivclito lo Uuvsian Kiver skirts the 'aslcn sid« of the
hay, and at the viliagr nf 'I'omalr.t, a f<'w miles inland froui the entrance, aro
Nome lar^;p warihoUHes for sloring grain.

BODEQA HEAD, IH milcH N.N.W fnim i'oint Kcycs, '"orms ihe norlhcrn
point of llodega Hay, (>o»isidering Tomules i'oinl Ihe sr-Mthcrn. The head is
'iOO or iUlO fl. high, wilh a slighlly rounding suniniil, ai.d coiiliu'.ies of nearly
tile same hrighl lur a mile or two ti'irlliward, wheicit chuiigeH to a hrond Hand
bencll, wilii low eoimliy near, hut high lulls in the liackgrmind. 'Ihe I'ikm- of
the land alioiil here lii'gin.s to eliange from its uniform w;inl 'if liees, to hills
pai'lially cuvcied. Il hu.s lieeii (Vc-ipieiitiy held out as a warning not lo inislake
Ihidcga ilcad lor i'unia de los Keyes, liiil tlieie exists no rcMMiniilile gi mind for
raising a ipiestion on this siil>iccl, although navigators who have lost or

porlKil, having Init frdin .'1 to Ti ruthuiiiH wiii.er u|>iiii tliiiii. 'I'liis inl'unii.itiim wiis iilitidiUMl
III IHfi.'i, Biiil Hiiice lliiiu snvorMJ II H. HiiiVoyiiin vchhcIm Iwivii imminniwifiilly Hiii'ilml for it,
but furtlior uxiuiinutlioii in ni«'gi<» ny, They uro loforrnl to nuao fully ii"'r«iiflor,

,' " —

"^^I>K(/A HAY.

::;-:-;■ tt "- ■•■"■"- ^^^^^^^^^ ■" ■' -

BODEGA BAY r ... ''""t"n.„t,on

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262

THE COAST OF CALIFORNIA.

ing from Russian Eiver valley to Petaluma Creek, by which chann-^l much of
the produce of this region finds its way to San Francisco.

The shore between Bodega Head and P'ort Ross, about 15 miles to
N.W. i W., curves slightly to the eastward of the line joining the two places.
Sand dunes commence IJ mile from the southern point of the head, and
extend 2J miles to the mouth of a small stream called Salmon Creek ; these
dunes are bordered by a broad sand beach.

Russian River.— At 9^^ miles N.W. by N. J N. from Bodega Head the
Slavianska or Russian litvvr empties into the sea, breaking through the coast-
hills, which here reach an elevation of 2,200 ft. De Mofras calls it the San
Sebastian. During the summer months a dry bar forms completely across the
mouth of the river, so that the road nlong the coast passes over it. It requires
heavy rains to brcik t'>roiigh it, and forms again after a few weeks of dry
weather. During the summer the bed is dry above Healdshurgh, .30 miles
from the mouth, nnd can be forded in several places in that distance. Before
breaking through the coast-hills it comes from the northward, through a broad
fertile valley. The arroyos and streams opening into the river near the coast
are filled with a very dense growth of heavy redwood; and in 1860 a tram-
road Wi-s being graded along the coast to the lagoon inside of Bodega Head,
to carry the lumber from the mill on the river.

At Duncan's Mills, 6 miles up Russian River, are some extensive saw-mills,
in the midst of great forests of redwoods. This is the present terminus of the
railway from Saucelito, the distance from San Francisco being 80 miles.
There is a good road down to the sea, and stage communication as far north-
ward as Mendocino City, 96 miles distant. Above Duncan's Mills, several
miles farther up the river, is Gurnetjville, with large saw-mills, situated at
the end of a branch from the San Francisco and North Pacific Railway.

From Ross Mountain, 2,198 ft. in height, the discoloured water of the river
has frequently been seen working along close inshore to the northward, and
never to the South. The fishermen experience the same eddy current.

Northward of this river again commence the high coast-hills, covered with
timber, which gradually approaches the' coast, and reaches it about halfway to
Fort Ross. The Russian vessels us'jd this as a distinctive mark for making
that anchorage. Where the timber commences to skirt the coast a bold spur
of the mountains comes directly upon the sea. At Fort Ross there is a small
extent of open, cultivated ground, moderately low, but backed by the high
wooded country. The coast and coast-hills to the northward are mostly covered
with dense forests of immense redwood, pine, and a thick undergrowth. At
one of the Coast Survey mountain stations over forty trees were cut down which
measured 5J^ ft. in diameter (spruce) to 8J^ ft. (redwood).

Fort Ross, — The rocky, contracted, and unsafe anchorage off this place is
32 miles N.W. J N. from Point Reyes, and 15 miles from Bodega Head. The
large white buildings on the rising ground, and about 100 ft. above the sea,

FORT ROSS— HAVEN ANCHORAGE.

263

are the only marks for making it, and the shore is so steep and guarded by
rocks and reefs as to render approach dangerous. Lumber, grain, and dairy
products air shipped here.*

Two miles above Fort Ross is a small contracted anchorage, called Timber
Cove, where a great deal of timber is sawn, and carried by coasters to San
Francisco. Eight miles above Ross is another contracted anchorage under
Salt Point, where coasters load lumber.

In 1879 Commander Coffin, U.S.S. Ilassler, reported that a dangerous patch
of foul ground lies oflF the entrance of Timber Cove. It lies from one-half to
three-quarters of a mile off shore, with several rocky heads, one nearly awash
at low water. Kelp extended out from the shore and covered the western half
of the patch, which, being small, is not often marked by breakers. Vessels
passing should not shoal their water to less than 30 fathoms in this vicinity.

From Fort Ross to Punta de Arena the coast is almost straight, running
N.W. by W. \ W. for 37 miles. It is compact and abrupt the whole distance,
covered with trees to the water's edge, and backed by an unbroken ridge of
hills about 2,000 ft. high, and wooded to their summits.

Haven Anchorage, about 24 miles north-westward along the coast from
Fort Ross, is a contracted anchorage, under high precipitous rocky islets, with
a short stretch of beach on the main, affording a boat landing. There is a
protection, when anchored close in, against heavy N.W. weather ; but it
would be very difficult to recognise the locality unless the position of a vessel
approaching it were accurately determined. Northward of this anchorage
high, bold rocks line the coast for 4 or 5 miles. They are generally known as
Fishing Rocks.

A few miles South of this anchorage is the mouth of the Walalla River,
open in the rainy season, but having a dry bar in summer. It rises South of
Fort Ross, behind the first range of coast-hills. One of the Coast Survey
stations on the North side of the river, and 3 or 4 miles from the coast, has an
elevation of 2,192 ft., and this may be taken as the general height of this

* The property of the Russian eatiibliahment at lioss and Bodega hud (August, 18U)
ju.^t been triiiisferred to Ciipt. Suter, of New Helvetia, at San Francisco, for the considei-a-
lion of 30,000 dollars. In the purchase was included all ihe stock, houses, arms, utensils,
and cattle belonging to the establishment, Thj buildings at the two posts numborod from
fifty to sixty, and they frequently contained a population of 400 or 500 souls.

Dodt'ga was first establir.e(? ^y the Russians in 1812, under a permission of the then
Governor of Monterey to erect a few small huts for salting their beef. A small number of
men were left to superintend this business, which in a few years increased until the place
boi'iime of xuch importance in the eyes of the Sp.inish authorities, that on the Russians
i'Hi'rr iting to establish themselves at San Francisco (on the Island of Yorba Buena), they
wtic orderud to leave the country. This they refused to do, and, having become too strong
to be removed by the Spanish force, they had been suffered to remain undisturbed until
the time of our visit. — Commodore Wilkes, U.S.N., Narrative, ^e., vol. v. pp. 179-80.

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264

THE COAST OF CALIFOKNIA.

|i i

POINT ARENA is the first prominent headlnnd * orth of Point Rej-es,
from which it bears N.W. J W., distant ()7 miles. Approached cither from
the northward or southward, it presents a long level plateau, stretching out
about 2 miles West of the highlands, and terminating in a perpendicular bluff,
which averages about 200 ft. in height, except the extreme N.W. part, which
is comparatively low, partially covered with sand, and destitute of trees for
some distance inland. When seen from the southward, with the sun shining
ui)on the face of the bluff, it shows remarkably white for the length of
2 miles ; in fact, no point upon the coast presents such a bright appearance,
or such uniform vertical bluffs, composed of hard rocks, twisted and distorted
into many plications. Bold water is found close off the point, outside the
kelp, which, stretching strongly to the southward, shows the set and compara-
tive strength of the current, running at 1 to 2 knots per hour along the coast.

The Lighthouse, at about 100 yards from the N.W. extremity of Point
Arena, is a white tower, 100 ft. high, showing a fixed bright light, elevated
156 ft., and visible 19 miles. At 121 yards West of the lighthouse is a steam
Fog Jf''/i''<!ffe which, in thick or foggy weather, is sounded for 5 seconds a*
intervals of 25 seconds. Lat. 38^ 57' 10' N., long. 123^ 44' 42" W.

About 2 miles southward of the point, a small contracted valley opens upon
the shore, and off it is an anchorage for small vessels, moderately well protected
from the N.W. swell, but open to the S.W. Several schooners have gone
ashore here. A large bed of kelp lies off the anchorage.

About 1^ mile N. by W. from the point are several rocks showing just
above water, and upon which the least swell breaks. These were noticed by
Vancouver in October, 1793. When 1 mi'c off Arena a high, sharp, pinnacle
rock shows well out from the shore on the horizon to the southward, with
some rocky islets inside, and breakers well out beyond the PtiDric/e Hock, yet
northward of it ; but their distances from shore are probably not so much as a
mile. At 10 miles North of Point Arena is a small stream called the Nevarro,
upon which is a lumber mill. Articles floating from this river are found
on the coast to the northward of it.

Albion River. — From Point Arena, the first point to the north-westward
is 24 miles distant, and bearing N.W. by N. J N. After passing Arena the
coast trends to the eastward of North, and for G miles presents a low shore-
line with sand beach, changing suddenly to a straight, high, bluff shore, with
a few trees, and banked within half a mile by hills of 2,000 ft., covered to
their summits with wood. At 10^^ miles from Arena is the mouth of Albion
River, a very small stream, with the barest apology for a harbour at its mouth.
A saw-mill upon this stream induces coasters to obtain freights here, but a
great many of those trading have been lost. In 1853, the coast surveying
steamer Active passed in, but broke her anchor on the rocky bottom.

MENDOCINO BAY,— At 20J miles from Arena, and 4 miles northward of
Albion River, is a contracted indentation called Mendocino Bay, available for

n few \

Jjoints J

nearly ]

large is

botwcor

tlio sea

around t

the N.E

200 and

^lat sand

""d uj)oi

rocky. I

its centre.

'i'Jio ba\

<iiid, withe

iniaeut :na

00 ft. hi.,-h

The Soutli

than the ot

>vard; then

the houses

^'■••'dualJy dc

t'i'd of the I

liaiidsomcly,

summer, anci

Iicr cable an(

vessels liavc

^Irnclociiio
mile above it,
^vas fonnerlv
tiannvay. 'J']

I'Vom the

Arena), the ^1

•■"id bounded 1

piesent an aln

>v.uvl of MeiKl

Ijccoines dry ai

From tlie de

the general trci

fur the whole

of hills running

^'orih Pac

MENDOCINO BAY.

2Co

n few vessels in summer, but dangerous in winter. The northern and southern
points nrc about three-quarters of a mile apart, and the eastern shore retreats
nearly half a mile. At the southern head arc several small rocks, and ono
large islet surrounded by rocks, off which are heavy breakers. Midway
between the heads is a small reef, with 3}^ fathoms least water, upon which
tlie 8ca breaks heavily with very little swell; deep water is found close
around this reef. Off the northern head is very bold water close to it. Into
the N.IC. part of the bay enters the i/i"y liiver or Eio Grande, between
200 and 300 yards wide, with n good channel on the southern side, a broad
flat sand on the northern, and a bar at the mouth with but a few feet of water,
and upon which the sea always breaks. The eastern sliore is bold and
rocky. In the south-eastern part ia a sand beach, with a reef extending from
its centre.

The bay forms so slight an indentation in the coast-line, that it is difficult to
find, without acipiaiiitanco with its miimte.st peculiarities, as there are no pro-
minent .marks by which to determine it. The North head is a table bluff abont
(30 ft. hij;h, and destitute of trees to the northward and some distance inshore.
The South bluff is likewise destitute of trees, but more irregular in outline
than the other. Vessels bound for this bay in summer work a little to wind-
ward ; then run boldly in tow, ids the North point, to the eastward of which
the houses become recognised, keep as close as possible along the shore,
gradually decreasing the distance to not less than 100 yards just off the South
end of the point in G futhoms, run on about 150 yards past the point, head up
handsomely, and anchor in 5 or (> fathoms, hard bottom. It is a bad berth in
summer, and in winter a vessel must anchor far enough out to be able to slip
her cable and go to sea upon the first appearance of a south-easter. Several
vessels have been driven ashore here.

Mendocino City is situated on the North side of the bay, and about half a
mile above it, on the North side of the river, is an extensive saw-mill, which
was formerly placed on the North head, the timber being brought to it on a
tramway. The town is sometimes called Mci</f/siillc.

From the point just North of Mendocino Bay (the first one made from
Arena), the shore runs nearly straight for 28 miles N. by W. I W., being low
iiiul bounded by rocks for 12 miles, when the black liills reach the water, and
present an almost vertical front 2,000 ft. in hciglit. At about 10 miles north-
wind of Mendocino liay is the mouth of Ten-Mile liiicr, the bar of which
becomes dry at the end of the dry season.

From the deepest part of the bight, which is northward of Ten -Mile Kiver,
tlie general trend of the coast to Cape Mendocino is N.W. ^ W., 4o miles, and
for the whole of this distance it is particidarly bold and forbidding, the range
of hills running parallel to the shore and rising directly from it. It has been

North Facijic.

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*.i5||U>?S

360

TIIK COAST OK CALIIOKNIA.

■• 1

t I

)

found iinpossiblu to travel uloii<; this btrt'tch of suabuaril ; luul tlio trail I'uos
well into the interior viiUcjs.

Shelter Cove. — From the compact Hhoro iibovu described a phituuu, destitute
of wood, and from CO to 300 ft. in height, jutH out, just above latitude 40° N.,
for a distance of half a mile, affording an anchorage from N.W. winds, and
may perhajjs be regarded as a harbour of refuge for small coasters which havo
experienced heavy weather off Cape Mendocino, and are short of wood and
water, both of which may be obtained hero from one or two gulches opening
on the sea. From Point ^Vrena it bears N.W. by N. J N., distant 0.5 miles.

The whole sea-face of the blulf or plateau is bounded by thousands of rocks
above and below water, and vessels coining from the North for shelter must
give it a wide berth, rounding it within one-third of a mile, and anchoring in
o fathoms, hard bottom, about one-third of a milo from shore. In this
position fresh water comes down a ravine bearing about North, and an Indian
village existed in 1853 at the bottom of the wooded ravine, a little further
to the eastward. There is always a swell here, and boat landing may not bo
very ca.sy.

Punta Oorda is 17 miles N.W. by W. i W. from Shelter Cove, and, as its
name implies, is a large, bold, rounding point. Half a mile off it lies a largo
rocky i.slet, with rocks close inshore, North of the point. From I'unta do
Arena it bears N.W. I N., distant 81 miles, and the line passing tangent to
Punta Gorda runs 1 mile outside of Caj j Mendocino. La Perouse calls Cape
Fortunas Punta Gorda. IJetween Shelter Cove and Cape Mendocino several
sunken rocks extend nearly a mile off the coast ; on some of them the sea only
breaks occasionally, and they can rarely be detected when strong winds arc
blowing. Vessels should not approach this coast within less than 1^ mile.

CAPE MENDOCINO is 93 miles N.W. •; N. from Punta de Arena, and
12^ miles N.W. by N. J N. from Punta Gorda. Here the range of coast-
hills from the southward appears to meet a range coming from the eastward,
forming a mountainous headland about 3,000 ft. high, which is the western
limit of the N.W. trend of this section of the coast.

The LIGHTHOUSE, on the West extreme of Cape Mendocino, is an iron
polygonal tower painted white, and 20 ft. high, surmounted by a rod dome to
the lantern. It shows a lens light of the first order, revolving/ in every half
minute, showing a hriijht flash of 15 seconds duration, followed by an eelijiso
of 15 seconds. It is elevated 423 ft. above the sea, and may be seen 27 miles.
Lat. 40^ 2G' 21" N., long. 124° 24' 14" W.

In 1873 the U.S. surveyors examined the dangers off Cape Mendocinc, niul
they are now accurately placed on the chart ; they break only at low water,
with a very large swell on. In 1875 another sunken rock, with G ft. over it,
was found at Ijt mile S.W. J W. from the lighthouse. The dangers lying off
this cape arc characteristic of several points on the coasts of California and
Oregon, and, until thorough surveys arc made, vessels should not attempt a

pass

pnssi

fil

Jciiow

reef, i

beinjj

3 mile

sunltor

been r

doeino,

havinir

'J'o tJ)

'■ocks an

or sugai-

from tlie

isolated

^V. by S.

an<l is .-jo,

•Above th

covered v

giiished in

■'U 7 mi]

'*'dcs of t);

foaJ-ofI spi

numerous 1

village of /

" The U„
harbour of
between the

betirs i.s cni);

tion is Ji,„i

f^'o'iiinbia L'
Orfonl, Caj,e
'^"'■iiiidnd oi-

^■'■"ni Caj)c

fi"""! 2,000 to

from 3 to ,5

St. George, an

"<■ the country

"''staclcs to thc-

'■'■'"''ys of the

''f'ng construct.

CArK MKNDOCIXO.

207

pnssnj^o Insidp f)f outlying rocks, and should nlso give them a good berth in
piisfiiii^ ouUidc.

Blunt Hooks. — About .1 miles off the cape, lies a reef, just under water,
Ijnowu as IJluiit Ikocks or Itccf, iipou which llic sea gcncndly breaks. This
reef, the outermost known danger oil" tlic eape, wm notieed by Vancouver as
l)oing about 1 league off shore. The southern rock on it bears \V. J S. nearly
13 miles from the liglithouse. lictweea this reef and the cape arc numerous
sunken rocks, rendering tlie jiassagc between very dangerous. A reef has also
been reported at about 8 miles N.\\'. by W. fioni the rocks ofl" Capo Men-
docino, but this is supjjosed to be the same as lUtmt Ueef, the distance probably
having been over-estimated.

To the southward, aiul immcdiatoly off the pitch of the cape, lie numerous
rocks and rocky islets, the latter being largo and high, with a peculiar pyramidal
or bugar-lonf ap])eaiance. None of them seem to be mor{; than half a mile
from the shore, which is almost perpendicular, and destitute of a beach. The
isolated rock lying just off the pitch of the cape, and one-third of a milo
W. by S. I S. from the lighthouse, is known as tlie Su<jiir-l(Hif ov Ifaystdch,
and is .'i:2H ft. high. The face of the cape is very steep, roeky, and worn.
Above this the general appearanec; of the land is rollitig, and the surface
covered with timber. The ])yramidal islets off it are very readily distin-
guished in approaching from tlie North or South.

At 7 miles South of Mendocino is a small stream, called Matlolr, Upon the
sides of the hills in Lower Mattole, and not above a mile from the I'aeifie,
coal-oil springs were discovered in IHOl. Along the eourse of this stream are
numerous bottom lands under cultivation. A few miles above its mouth is the
village of Pctrolia.

" The United States Government has In contemplation the construction of a
harbour of refuge on the northern coast, but there is a difference of opinion
between the engineers and tlie naval oflicers as to which of the present har-
bours is capable of being made the most desirable for the purpose. The selec-
tion is limited to the open roadstead between Cape ^fendociuo and the
Columbia liiver. Trinidad, Crescent City, Modi's (? Mack's) Arch, I'ort
Orford, Cape Gregory, and Cape l-'oulweather, have each been surveyed, and
Trinidad or I'ort Orford will probably be the final selection." — Mr. Vuitsul
Itouhtr, 1K81.

I'rom (.'ape Meiulocino to Cape Orford the hills upon the seaboard range
from 2,000 to 3,000 ft. high, running parallel with the cotist at a distance of
from ."5 to 5 miles, receding somewhat at the Kel River Valley and Point
St. George, and at other points coming abruptly to the ocean. The whole face
(rf the country is covered with dense forests, and offers almost insuperable
ohstades to the opening of roads intended to strike the trail leading along the
valleys of the Sacramento and Willamette, through which railways are now
being constructed.

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2G8

TIIK COAST OF CAT.Il'OKMA.

i'i

!•.

CAFE FORTUNAS, or False Mendocino, lies northward of Cniio Mendo-
cino, distant 5 or 6 miles, and is another bohl spur of mountainous hcadhind,
similar, and almost as high ns that cape. Between the two the shore recedes
slightly, is depressed, and forms a beach, receiving a small stream called Hear
or McDonald Creek, coming down through a narrow valley or gulch, and
closed by a bar near the end of the dry season.

Off Cape Fortunas lie several rocky islets, presenting the same peculiarities
as those off Mendocino, and a rock, with 12 ft. water over it, lies cables
W. i S. from the Cape Hock. There is no beach at the base of the almost
perpendicular sca-facc. We have ventured to call this Cape Fortunas, to avoid
the repetition of Mendocino, and to commemorate Ferrelo's (the pilot, and
successor of Cabrillo) discoveries.

It is reported that soundings have been obtained well to the westward of
the cape ; should such prove correct, the fact will be of importance to vessels,
especially steamers, bound North or South, when near the coast ai 1 enveloped
in fog, as it would enable them to judge of their position, and change their
course.

Eel River, — After passing Capo Fortunas the shore changes to a straight,
low, sandy beach, with valleys running some distance inland. Eel River is
a small stream, with a bar at its month, and distant M miles from Cape ilcn-
docino. It is very contracted and crooked, receiving the waters of a great
many sloughs near its mouth, and draiuing a most fertile valley, which is
rapidly filling with settlers. Salmon is plentiful here; in 1882 the canneries
packed 330,000 tins of 1 lb. each. The bar had 9 ft. water over it at high
tide, in the spring of 18.J0.

HUMBOLDT BAT. — The entrance to this bay, also called Qual-a-waloo, lies
21 miles from Sugar-loaf Islet, off Cape Mendocino; and the bar N. by E.,
22 J miles from 15lunt Eocks. The bar is \{ mile from the entrance between
the sand points, or 2 miles from the S.W. and highest point of Red lUiiJf,
which is the second bluff above Eel Kiver. Like all the bar rivers on this
coast it undergoes irregular changes, depending much upon the prevalence,
direction, and strength of the wind. Thus, early in 1851 it bore N.W., distant
2 miles from lied Bluff, and about half a mile from the North Spit, with 3^
fathoms upon it. In the fall of 1852 the bar was reported to have moved to
the northward its entire width, and the ranges for going in, as laid down by
the survey of the previous year, were entirely useless. In 1857 less than
13 ft. at high tide could be found upon it, and its extent was very much
increased. Eventually a deep and narrow channel will be cut through.

According to the survey of 1858 the channel over the bar, between the
breakers on either side, varied from less than a cable in width, between the
North and South spits, to about 2 cables at a mile outside, where the depth
was from 3 J to 4 fathoms, deepening to 8 and 11 fathoms farther in. Vessels

■hoi
wat(
Ai
most
are s(
out tf
get til
positic
invalui
winds
A.n a
15 fatli
hearing
near thi
The ,
North 01
consists (
the cent
pnintcd r(
53 ft. abo
steam /b,
alternate 1
^t is sug
Bluff, whei
over the su
'i'lie bay
extends 9 r
^ess than hi
expands to
The single (
ones, which
""id flat at _
with extcnsi
shores, and
«'dth is Jial.
shallow shcei
t'lc greater ^..
^y a grassy fl
'^oith Spit, n
H fathoms.

The Xorlh
composed of „
parallel with t

]

r
ilf

HTJMnOLDT DAY.
•hould not at (cm])t to ontor « m 269

-o^tc/roctive service i„ .if.orl „ ^ h.r " ^'"^•' ""^ '- rendered the
"'■e seen nppr„„cl.i„., the b.r 17 ^ ''^'' '^ '^' '^«'-. When vess!
»»' to take then. i„. uul I V "'^"^'^ '"^ ^''^'^ ^^'"ff- "'ul tl tul

•"valuable for town-, out tho , ? , ''" '''''•' ^o steer for her Sb

^'••"J« blow directly in tl ''''^P'>' ^^^^^n lumber vessels a, ,!' '"

"'Jtciij 111 the channc . A /i/uf. j • ^ ■'"•-'s, as the summer

An automatic Jf/us(/c /,„„ , ^^""^ '« stationed here

- ^^'-. nearl, ^S'/Ttru^ T1 '"^^^ ^^'^^ ^« -rod in
'>ear.n,S.I, b, K. . ,, This prllrj ^ '.'"""' ""'^ ^''^ ^^^d BlZ
"c^y has position. ^'•^''^'^^^ ^^P^'^«« the bell-boat formerly moored

^-;of :^^:^:; -- - the ^.th spit. three.,uartor. of a mile

--^ts of a keeper's dwel,i„,, l^^^^'^?'' ^'^ ^'^ -I son shores.

the centre, both being whit ' 1^

painted red. The liH,t i, r ' ""^ «"rmounted by an J

f ft- «bove high water, and -isible iT mi ^ f ""' '""•^'' «-'-' elevated

team /, ,y,,,,^^ ^^^^^ ,^ d s E f . " ''^^ °^ ^"°=^ -'ther a

alternate blasts of 4 and 8 second, a int^^^^^^^ « sounded in

It ,s suggested that a better r.Lw I "^ '"''°«^«-

B^"ir,^vherethc,ight would n b/ ill " f "^^''^"°"'° -"^'^ ''e on Ked
over the surf on the beach. ^''^'^ *" ^^ "^'^^-'ed by the mist hangin!

Jl'o bay is situated immediately behind thn .
e-xtcnds 9 miles North, and 4 mil s ^ '„? , '°" ""^^I''^^ ""d dunes, and
'e«s than half a mile in width between Ls rf"""' '^'"«" -"^™et d to
expands to nearly 3 miles, and r:Tn^^Tl''' ""' '^"^ ^'"^'^ ^ ^'-'
iho smgle channel running into this pt" of . . ""''"'"■' °^ ^"^'e Iilu,r.
ones, which contain from ^ to 3 ftthom f ^'''' ''"''" ^"^^ ^-o crooked

-ud flat at low tides. Abreast of hTnt "'"'" "" '^^ ^^"^^ «'-- ^ b
-th extensive sands bare at ,o J i^^l ^ •" ^^ "^'^'"^-^ ^ ^'^ - -

r-T ,;■"""'■"»" "-'-^^-P-allel Jl'i^":; ^•'^--n the opposite'
^ id h ,s half a mile for a distance of 3i ^^' r " "°'thward its avera-^c
^ballow sheet of water, having ^oL JJ "* fi'" '^'^P^'^'^^ -*° ^ ^^o
the greater part being bare at low t des ^ '^ '^""'"^^ *^-»Sh it, b^

^y a grassy flat nearly a mile iJ l/'T^r^^^^^'- ""^ flats. 1,orde:.d

--^. not less than3.hom:::J:--^^^

I'll ^''''*;>'i '• "I*"

^«rrK' ^ ' ' " • .' -El-'

ni'.

■1 <i-^

ii '

270

TIIK COAST OF CALIFOllNIA.

trees cover the liillocka, nnd run northward I nulc, when a space of a milo
occurH within thorn. After that they continue ulonj; the shore.

The South Spit, from the entrance to Table JUutF, does not avcra};e one-
quarter of a mile in widtli, is formed of low snnd dunes nnd grassy hillcieks,
nnd bordered on the bay side hy ninrsh. At the southern oxtreniily rises
I'nble lUnff, which the nnmc well describes, to a hci;;ht of iibout 200 ft., its
western point nearly renching the sea beach, nnd forniiiiu; a good landmark for
making the bay. At 5 miles East of it the hills commence rising. Abreast of
the North end of the South Spit rises lied lilujf, presenting to the entrance a
perpendicular face, composed of sand and gravel, coloured hy the decomposition
of iron ore near its surface, which is 9G ft. aliove higli water, and destitute of
tree or bush. The bay front of the bluH" is about one-third of a mile long,
gradually declining to the low, flat land to the North, nnd also falling away to
the South and East. On this bluiF the pilots have a flagstaff to range with
known points of trees beyond, by which they sross the bar, nnd keep the run
o'its changes.

The militaiy station of Fort Humhohll is on a reservation on Red Ijluff,
about 100 ft. high, innnediately behind the town, which is on the West side
of the bluff. The low land on the eastern sliorc, above Red IJlulF, averages
half a mile in width, and runs as far as l-lureka, gradually changing to nuirsh,
nnd bounded by plntcaux and hills covered with wood. At a mile North of
the entrance, and on the eastern side, enters u small stream, called MowitcU
or Elk River : three-quarters of a Ue above this is situated H'c town of
Bucksport, off the northern part of \\\ ' a depth of 3J fathoms is found
within 150 yards of the shore. Vessels arc go, .side the Saw-mill Wharf

here at high tide to lead; at low tides they rest upon i.. nuddy bottom.

The town of Eureka is 4 miles N.N.E. of the entrance, and off it is a portion
of the channel, having nearly 3 fathoms in it, but no channel reaching it
having more than IJ fathom. The town, which now has a population of about
2,000, was laid out before this latter fact was discovered. Vessels lie at the
wharves, resting on the mud at low tide ; there is regular comaunieation with
F' n Francisco by steamer, and large quantities of recUvord lumber are ex-
ported.

Abreast of Eureka lie several low marshy islands cut up by sloughs and
ponds. The largest, called Indian Island, is about a mile long N.E. and
S.W., by half a mile in width. It is marked by two hillocks, surmounted by
clumps of trees, near which, in 1854, there were several wretched Indian
huts. The smaller islands lie between this and tliu eastern shore, and parallel
with it.

Areata, ioimcrly XJniontown, is situated on the N.E. shore of the bay, nnd
can only be reached by boats at high tide. It is the starting point for the
Trinity and Klamath gold mines. From it an extensive wharf stretches far
out over the mud flat, which vessels can reach at higli tides.

Mad Itit
averages ab
egress; but
passage thr(
from the la
the cxecuti
Ileccta and

TBINID.
nnd North [
continues pi
changes to i
the low bea
shore.

The Ligl
18 ft. high,
elevated 19t

TRINIDj
contracted,
ately good s
the roadstea
high, coverc
sides, and 8
half a mile
tween. At
fatlioms cloi
distance is
about half {i|
well above
tending abc
being abouii
town, or vil
is on the
low neck ri|
vessels lie
shore.

In workil
the rock jij
(having a
face of the
within one
westward
A swell w|
chorngc, a|

TUIMDAl) HEAD AND HAY,

2T1

Mail Jilvcr runs iiilo the Hca about a mile North of llMttboVih Day. U
avcra|{L<ii about lOU yards in width, Mith u bar nt its ciitiiincu «hicU prevents
egress ; but the vast aiuouut of timber in the valley must eventually find u
passage through a canal to the X.W, point of Humboldt Bay. A deep slough
from the latter is said to approach quite close to Mad liivcr, thus favouring
the execution of such a project. This river is tho Uio do log Tortulus of
lleccta and Dodega, 1775.

TBINIDAO HEAD lies X. } W., 17^ miles from the bar of Humboldt liuy,
nud North 39 miles from Capo Mendocino. Tho low sand beach off Humboldt
continues past Mad Uiver to within a couple of miles of 'J'rinidad liay, when it
changes to a bluff, guarded by innumerable rocks. For the entire distance of
the low beach a depth of from 10 to 16 fathoms may be found 1 mile from tho
shore.

The Lighthouse on th.' southern shore of Trinidad Head is a white tower,
18 ft. high, showing n fixed briyht light, varied by n red Jlash every minute,
elevated 198 ft., and visible 17 miles. Lat. 41"' 3' \> N., long. 121' 8' 5(i' W.

TRINIDAD BAY. — The bay or roads* :A of Trinidad, or S/io-rait, is very
contracted, but having deep water, and all dangers visible, it forms a moder-
ately good summer anchorage. Trinidad Head, forming the western shore of
the roadstead, and a prominent mark when seen from close in, is about 37 o ft.
high, covered with a low, thick undergrowth of scrub bu hcs, has very steep
sides, and 8 fathoms close to its southern base. Off the westc.u face, for nearly
half a mile out, lie several high rocky islets, with numerous sunken rocks be-
tween. At half a mile So' h of the head is Pilot liock, 101 ft. high, having 9
fathoms close to it. Fron. le .South face eastward to the o-fathonis curve, the
distance is 1 mile, and the depth of the bight to the northward of this lino U
about half a mile, with half a dozen rocks lying outside the 3-fathouis line, but
well above water. In the northern part of the bay there is a sand beach, ex-
tending about half a mile; thence eastward the shore is very rocky, the bluff
being about 300 ft. high, and covered with a heavy growth of timber. 'J'he
town, or village, fronts tho N.W. part of the roadstead, and the boat landing
is on the North side of a round knoll, making out about 100 yards from the
low neck running to Trinidad Head. A wharf is now built here, at which
vessels lie to load lumber. A very considerable quantity of seaweed lies off tho
shore.

In working into the anchorage, beat in boldly past the outermost rock, until
the rock just off the eastern side of Trinidad Head is in range with the knoll
(having n few trees upon it), between the town and the head, with the South
face of the head bearing W. by N., and anchor in 7 fathoms, hard bottom,
within one-third of a mile of tho rock and hend, having the neck visible to tho
westward of the knoll, and a sugar-loaf rock beyond the neck showing over it.
A swell will generally be found setting in. In winter it is a dangerous an-
chorage, and if a vessel is unluckily caught, her chances of riding out a south-

f A.

I '(mm

: U

;

:■ '1

1272 T1!K ('OAST OK CAUKOHNIA.

onstor ni\ .•cry fi'W. 'I'lii) town (luring tlio winter is .said to bo nearly deserted,
but a brisk trado is earried on in summer. Tlic couneetion with San KninciHeo
by steamer is yet uncertain. It has been prupu.sed to cun^truet h harbour of
refuge licrc.

The laud in this vicinity is very rich, and well adajiteci to ngrioulturo. The
redwood tree.s {^row around it, and attain an enormous Hize. Tho stump of
one which was measured was about '20 ft. in diameter, and n dozen trees
standing in the vicinity averaged over 10 ft. Oiu< was aflirmcd to bo stnuding
on tho bank of a small stream at the S.M. par', of the bay, moosuring over DO
feet in circumference. The bark of these treses lias a thiekiieHS of from 8 to 14
inches ; they grow ])erfeetly straight, retaining their thickness to a great
height, begin to brunch at -lO or 100 ft., and frecpiently attain 2/iO ft. in height.
The forests of this timber, when free from undergrowth, present an imposing
sight.*

'J'he shore running M.W. by N. from Trinidad Head for f> miles is remark-
ably broken and rocky, which induced Vancouver lo call its northern ex-
tremity, in lat. ■11'^ H' X., liockij I'oi'nt. About 1 mile olf this jjoint lu? several
rocks, sometimes known as the Turllvs. About 1 i mile southward of them is
Cone liuck, a mile olf the shore.

From Kocky Point the shore takes a gentle sweej) eastward, making its
great(!st indentation at the N'orlli end of th(^ onei' famous d'old /iluj/', in lut.
•II" '27' N., long. 12 r' r W., and then treiuling westward to Crescent City. CJold
lilulf has an extent of 10 miles, and is very bold and high.

lletween IJoeky I'oint and (iilon ItluH', which is the fust one to the north-
ward, there is a stretch of low sand beaeli, innnediiitely behind which is an ex-
tensive lagoon several miles in length, anil from a (luarter to 1 mile in width.
It lies parallel with the beach, and at some seasons is not connected with tho
ocean, but at others an opening exists at tliu northern e.\tremity. The Indian
iianu; of this lagoon is .l')-shie-sho-ran.

Redding Rock lies nearly 5 miles ulf the South end of (iold lUuH", in lat.
•11 ' 21' N., long. 121" ir W. It is a single, large, rocky islet, alxmt 100 ft.
high, and reported to have dcej) water all around it, with no outlying dangers.
A'ancouver places it in lat. 11 ' 2.0' on his chart, and 1 miles off shore ; but in
tjie narrative states the distance at half a league, and that it is half a niih; in
circuit. His track lies inside of it. It is staled that a reef, eommeneing at tho
shore 2 miles above the rock, stretches out towards it. The rock received its
present name in IHIO or 1850.

KLAMATH RIVER.— The uio\ith of this river is in lat. 11" ;};}' N., long.
121" 3' \\. It is perhaps 200 yards wide, having u long siuul-spit on tho

• rortTriiiidatl was (liHcovdroilJ line lOtli, 177''), liy Ucc('tji mid II("Iiih;i», uikI jilncoil in
lilt. '11° 7' N. Noiir it thuy pliicn n slroiim, whiih tlicy iiill tlio iUo <lo loi Tortoloe, or
ri^rcuii ilivor ; thi» is now ciilk'd Mnil Itivur.

fiouth sido,

■horc. Sou

side of the c

tlio bar. U

ing across i

schooners on

tho winters (

heavy weath

At 3 or -1 I

mouth of a g

distance of 1 ,

It has, howe>

small coaster

either side, ai

called Ahmeii

when the hill

uncncumbcrci

regularly swec

of Orescent ('

( )fi" the coat

rocks. About

iiiid half a mil

water around,

near Wilson C

CRESCENT

utiually rcHortei

the town (Ores

till- gold diggiii

wilh sunken rm

.\o vessel shoul

kiiowltdge of tl

liy kelp.

The outer dr
i.cdije, and is se
it; it lies nearl}
\V. a W. from J
'liuigerous, as it
Hot well marked
lii^litliouse islet.
Till' usual ane
111' Willi ley hliii
liuni liol 1(1111. 'I
A'urth I'luij

KT.AMATII llIVKll— CIRKSCENT CITY MAY.

973

South Hido, running N.W. niul piirallol to the high hillH wliicli form tlio North
■horc. South of the entrnnce for 1 i mile nrc outlying rockH, nn«l nt the North
side of the entrance lie scvcrnl othorH. It is reported to hiive 'ij fiUhoniH ujjon
the bar. U|)on passinp it in 1853, witl;in less tlmn n mile, the sea wiw break-
ing across it, and no aj)peanmce of a safe channel watt presented. Small
schooners enter it ; but it is stated Uiat the mouth was completely closed in
the winters of 1851 and 18(50, and that the bar ch».!i<je! with every change of
heavy weather.

At 3 or 4 miles northward of the Klamath is a small sharp indentation at tho
mouth of a gulch, off which lie one large and several small rocks; but from a
distance of IJ mile it could not bo determined whether any stream opened here.
It has, however, received the name of False Klamath, because it has misled
small coasters seeking for the Klamath, although there is no sand point on
either side, as exists at the latter. The State mnp of (California has a creek,
called Ahmen, opening here. The const thence continues bold for several miles,
when the bills begin to recede, and the shores present many pleasant slopes,
unencumbered with forests, and now under cultivation. Tbe shore is low, and
regularly sweeps to the westward for n coujjIo of miles, forming the roadstead
of Crescent City.

Off tho coast between Klamath River and Crescent City are several outlying
rooks. About <i miles northward of the river are iSitters Hocks, above water,
and half a mile off shore. A dangerous rock, with 3 ft. water ovor it and deep
MHter anmnd, lies 4 miles S.I'I. by S. from the Sisters, and 1 mile off the point
mar Wilson Creek ; there is no kelp on it, and the sea rarely breaks.

CRESCENT CITY BAY.— TliiH, the most dangeroiis of tho roatlsteadn
usually resorted to on the coast, has acquired some impoitnnco, on account of
the town (Crescent City) being the depot for the sii|)plies of miners working
llio gold diggings on the Klamath, Trinity, ami Salmon Ui\ers. It is filled
willi Kunken rocks and reefs, and has n goodly number showing above water.
No vessel should think of gaining an anehornge here ivlthout a pilot, or perfect
knowledge of tho hidden dangers. The dangerois patciics are nearly all marked
liy kelp.

The outer danger, having 3^ fathoms water ov--^.- it, is known as Chase
/.(Y/f/e, and is several hundred yards in extent, with 12 to 14 fathoms anmnd
it; it lies nearly a mile S.K. by S. J S. from Hound Hock, 8 cables S. by
W, J W. from Miissel Rock, and Ij mile olf shore, being considered highly
'limgirous. as it lies in the track of shipping to or from the southward, and ia
not well marked by kelp. Other sunken rock i lie half a mile S. by Jv of tho
lii;lilliouse isl(>t.

'I'lic usual anchorage is on a line between the lighthouse and the Nor'.h siilo
of Wliiiler Inland, the large islet lying 8 cables Kast of it, in 3^ fiulxmts,
liuril bottom. To reach this position, run lor the small Rnuiid liork, lym^j
Kurth I'acijic. 2 if

' '':^:J^*

274

THE rOA8T OF CALIFORNIA.

illji

I 1

I:i

I A

H.K. J R., scvf>n-rIf;hthB of a mile from the lighthouse, and 42 ft. hif^h ; pass
it on the ImihI wide, giving it ii berth oC 100 yardH; steer N. by W. J W. for
three-eiglilhs of u mile, passing 100 yards East of Fuuntlernif Rock, wliicli is
covered at three-cjuartirs flood, and on which an iron beacon, 25 ft. higli, lias
been erected. If ibis rock be covered, and the beacon gone, its position is
generally marked by a breaker. It is necessary to keep it close aboard, bccauso
there is a sliarj) bayonet rock, having only 2 ft. of water on it, and 200 yards
to the ca.stward. Head up for the town, and anchor in 3 J fathoms, with Flat
J(ock in line with IJattery Point. In summer there is always some swell here,
but in winter it rolls fearfully, and vessels must choose u position to bo ready
to run to sea at the approach of a south-caster.

To enter or leave it at night, as is done by the mail and coasting steamirs, re-
(piires a perfect local knowledge of the dangers and peculiarities of the land-
marks, (.'oastiiig stoain(!rs, in fine weather, usually anchor close inshore to dis-
oluirge freight, which is received in lighters.

A wharf has been built out from liattery Point, and landing is now easily
cffectt^d in good weather. Jn south-coasters the breakers wash over it. Comniu-
nicntinn is maintained with San Francisco and other ports by mail and coasting
steamers, whi(oh, nt one time, carried as many passengers aud as much freight
for this place as they carried to the Cohimbia Eiver.

The town lies N.W. from the anchorage, immediately on the low shore ; old
drift logs, in some instances, forming the foundation for wooden houses, 'i'he
population amounts to about /iOO. The lands adjacent are being cultivated ; a
gristmill has been built, and a good trail leads to the "diggings" on the
Klamath and Illinois Uivers.

Ituttery Point, the S.W. point of the bay, is elevated about 2.5 ft., and con-
tinues so to the westward. The lighthouse is erected on the rocky islet about
300 yards S.S.W. of the point, and connected with it nt low tides by a broken
mass of rocks, over whi(!h a single foot-bridge is constructed.

ii;.', TOHTHOUSE consists of a keeper's dwelling, of stone, the natural
Otluii- .ay), with a low tower of brick, jdastered and whitewashed, rising
iior. ic centre, and surmounted by an iron lantern painted red. It is situated
at the S.W. part of the roadstead, on the seaward extremity of the island jtoint,
which is hiTc about 45 ft. above high water. The light is ftxed briyht, varied
by a^rtsA every 1} minute, elevated 80 ft. above high water, and visible 15
miles. It illuminates 315^ of the horizon, and is in lat. 41" 44' 34' N., long.
124" 12' 22' W., 70 J miles N. by W. from Cope Mendocino.

It is high water at Crescent City, on full and change, at 11'' 44""; 8prin"s
rise 5J^ ft.

POINT ST. GEORGE, 2\ miles W. by N. from Crescent City liglit, is from
60 to 150 ft. high, with tablc-laiul some distance back. It is bounded by
hundreds of rocks, Home of which rise perpendicularly 200 ft. from the water.
Three or four of the largest present a remarkably white appearance, which

•erres

'ed to ,

Orford.

been pr

Creac

">^' W.

^ 'niles.

the fornii

•L'efs, ant

oi- leaving

many h„ii

the .slioro.

tile gencni

f'e niiiltiti

J"'' UlilU-T,*

tl . ,, ^.,„,

P"'" •'> tito

'I'he poHit

'"'"'•d, but

^•W. rock,

niiJes W. b

(''rorye Jieej;

tremity „f „,]

the cJiannel.

^^' J w. r,.,„

Pelican Bt

'*''""glit lor 1
"ideiitiition, p
^t- 'icorgt-'s I
some distance
siieani call-,d
fill an ee to tl;
•■''though scan
<'«tiinate as to
^'"<'h is a low
''" 'he weslwail

'•"■'« t, is //„,s,v/,

'"•■" IuhI by ,1 j;
"■'If- way b,.

'""'"in the ooaj

'"'"■e inland, an|

Mount Shasd

1 j: L

CR1':SCENT C!ITY ROCKS -rELICAN BAY.

275

Borres to (lifitingiuHh this point. The extensive reef in its vicinity may have
led to confusion among the old discoverers by llieir eoiifoinidini^ it with ('a|)0
Drford. The present name was ^iven to it l)y Vancouver, in I7'J2. It has
been proposed to establish a liyhthtmsn liere.

Crescent City Rooka. — This name is applied to the rocks and reefs cxtend-
inf^ W. by N. J N. from the Sonth part of I'oint St. Cieorge for a distance of
7 miles. The name of Drayon Rucks was given to them by Vancouver, but
the former is the name now generally nsed. A ]>assage exists inside of the
reefs, and is iikvariably used by the mail vnd coasting steamers, when entering
or leaving Crescent City Hay. Tiiere arc ten «r twelve outlying rocks, and
many sunken ones, with the passage rui niiig between them and tiiose close to
the shore. This passage is about u mile in width, has 10 fathoms in it, and
the general course through is nearly N.vV. and S.!"!., but not straight. Aiming
tl»e nniltitudc of rocks on the land side of the passage are three very larg<' and
J)!' miro •' oies, about 200 ft. high, ll lias already been stated tliat several of
tlii i:' j.rr.1 ky islets have a well marked white appeuranee, occasioned in
part .1^ tl^5 deposits of sea birds.

The position of all the visible rocks and breaks of this reef have been deter-
mined, but it is thought that a detailed survey would reveal others. 'J'he
N.W. roek, called N.]V. Seal Rock, is -liO feet high, and lies about fi^
miles W. by N. j N. from I'oint St. (Jleorge, and between the two lies iSt.
(leoryc Reef, which breaks, and another group of rocks, on the southern ex-
tremity of whicli is Star Rock, (i I ft. high, on the West side of the enlranet; to
the channel. In 1K;V,(, Shtilirick Reef was reported to lie 8 miles S.VV. by
\V. jl W. from the point, but its existence is ddubll'ul.

Pelican Bay.— From the northern part of I'oint St. (Jeorge tlie roast runs
straight for 12 miles N. \ VV., thence W.N.W. for 'J miles, forming a deep
indentation, called by I.. i'( r(mse, in 1787, I'elican Hay, and by Vancouver,
St. (Jcorge's Hay. V-n '. < tulles from I'oint St. (ieorge the shore is low for
some distanee bacV •..u' ;''•• -ii'sd by a sand beach, to the mouth of a small
sueam call'..,d Si- l/i fii'.-i on which are some salmon canneries. 'I'he
entrance to this river i ■ loin-cd for in vain from the deck of the steamer,
although scarcely 2 miln < 'i shore, but they were able lo form a good
esliinate as to where it slioi Id open by the peculiarities of the northern bank,
wliich is a low [)crpeiidicu'.ir blidl', in about lat. IT .07' N., long. 121' I .'i' \V.
To the westward of the Ciitranee of Smith J{iver, .iiul about li mile from tlio
C(i:tst, is J/axxler Rock, u sunken rock with only 12 ft. water over it, someliines
iii.uked by a little k' ip.

ll;df-\vay between Crescent Cily and the mouth of Smith Uiver there is
a small sheet of er, called /.ukc luirl or '/uldira. North of this small
slreum the ooaf,'. .icu'ies an I'ievation of about 100 or 200 I't. for u short dis-
tance inland, and i.i ' ■ . i:.;;vl !i; high mountains.

mount Shasta is 'i luu^niiiceut peak, 11,112 ft. high, in tho reur of tho

asg^H

H^BP

276

THE COAST OF CALIFORNIA.

entrance to Smith River, its position being about lat. 41° 20' N. long.
121° 45' W. Its summit, on wliich there is n bet spring, gives evidence of its
having been an active volcano. The snow lies in patches on the sides and
part of the peak of this mountain.

The 42° paraliui is the boundary between the States of California and Oregon,
at 14 miles northward of Point St. George. It strikes the coast near u notice-
able high pyramidal mound, rising abruptly from the plutcuu, which is desti-
tute of limber.

Til

^HE Sta

the sovei

between

present c

the forme

pages.

'The act

angry disc

its present

^aws of sov

The N.\

^y Sir I'Var

t'»c lat. of

name, l^

^^^e shaJll
voyage in J
'" ifi03, no|
these have
some reason
'f'alJy authel
'■Spanish authl
and after enj
'■^outh point
now calied q]
^'ootka Sounci
I'Jio next, i]
^'crez. Don.
I^ut was at firs
'"'"•t Trinidad]
'''^"iver found if

C ^77 )

CHAPTER V.

THE COAST OF OREGON AND WASHINGTON TEKRITORY,
FliOM CIIET-KO RIVER TO ADMIRALTY INLET.

The State of Oregon forms an integral portion of the United States of America,
the sovereignty having been acknowledged by the treaty of July 15th, 184(5,
between that jjower and Great Britain, and is that country described in the
present chapter, lying between the parallel of 42"" N. and the Columbia River,
the former separating it from the State of California, described in the preceding
pages.

The actual right of possession of Oregon territory was the theme of long and
angry discussion, and notwithstanding the cession of the claim by Britain to
its present owners, it must ever be acknowledged that their right by the usual
laws of sovereignty was indefeasible.

The N.W. coast of America, in this part, was first made known to Europe
by Sir Francis Drake, in his voyage in 1578, before mentioned. He reached
the lat. of 48° N., and coasted southward to the harbour now bearing his
name. It was next seen by the Spaniards.

We shall not dwell here upon the much-disputed accounts of De Fuca's
voyage in 1592, which will be mentioned elsewhere, nor of Martin de Aguilla
in 1003, nor of Admiral Bartolomeo de Fuente, or de Fontc, in 1640. All
these have been denied the merit of truth, but there certainly would appear
some reason for believing a portion of the first-named narrative. The ne.\t or
really authentic account of any voyage to this part of the coast is from the
Spanish authorities. Ensign Juan Perez sailed from San Bias in the year 1774,
and after encountering storms, made the land on July IGth, in lat. 54"", the
South point of which was named Cape Santa Margarita, the land being what is
now called Queen Charlotte's Islnnd, and the cape, Cape North. He then made
Nootka Sound, which he called Port San Lorenzo.

The next, in March, 1775, was under Capt. Bruno Hcceta, under whom was
Terez. Don J. de Ayala has been frequently named as chief of the expedition
but was at first in command of the second vessel, the Sonora. Thev made
Port Trinidad, North of Cape Mendocino, wlu-ro they left a crosH, which Vnn-
nouvcr found in 17'.)3. Tliuy went northward, but buing separated by a storm,

^^W:

■» \-,'-f^\.X < ■ ' ,■ *r . ■■ ■ ft i\

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378

THE COAST OF OHEGON.

:t i

.1 '

Ecceta returned, and saw the opening of the mouth of the Columbia, which he
called the Ensenadn de Ascencion ; it was also called Heceta's Inlet in some
subsequent Spanish charts. Such are the first Spanish voyages.

In 1776, Capt. Cook left Plymouth on his last voyage, and after discovering;
the Sandwich Islands, in January, 1778, he made the coast 200 miles North of
Cape Mendocino, proceeding northwards.

From some notices given respecting the fur to be procured on tlv coast
during Cook's voyage, some vessels fitted out for this region from Cbma, the
fifbt of which was under Capt. James Hanna ; but, in 1787, Capt. Berkeley
discovered an inlet in 48° 30'. In 1788 Capts. Duncan andColnett were on the
coast ; and Duncan, running down the coast from the North, anchored on the
South coast of a strait off a village called Claasit, or Claasel, in 48° 30'.

In 1788 Capt. Meares entered this strait, ond communicated his discovery to
Capt. Gray, of the Columbia, in which vessel the latter discovered the great
river now known by that name. This fact is recorded by Vancouver, to whose
expedition, in 1792, we owed almost the whole of our first knowledge of the
coasts. In 1839, the mouth of the Columbia was surveyed by Captain Sir
Edward Belcher. The American Exploring Expedition also examined the
Columbia River in 1841, and part of the Straits of Juan de Fuca, afterwards
more elaborately completid by Capt. Kellett, in 1847. But soon after the
transfer of the region to the United States, that government instituted a survey
of the coast, the preliminary examination being commenced in 1849 by Lieut.
W. A. Bartlett, and subsequently continued by Lieut. McArthur and Com-
mander Jas. Alden, U.S.N. These surveys have in many instances been en-
tirely completed. One of the earliest resui^ of the hydrographical examina-
tion of the western coast of the United States was the establishment of the
system of admirable lighthouses, which now mark its prominent points.

The Hudson's Bay Company, during this period, having established settle-
ments, derived almost the sole benefit from its productions ; but in 1846 it was
determined that the right of sole possession should be divided. It was agniiist
the claims of England ; and the treaty before alluded to stipulated that all
South of 42° should belong exclusively to the United States, the navigation of
the Columbia River to be open to both parties, and indemnification granted to
settlers of either nation on either side of the boundary.*

Mi^l

km r

* Tho origin of the name " Oregon " is involved in some obscurity. It i«, perhaps, first
found in some travels in the interior of North America, in 17C6-G8, by Jonathan Curver,
publiaiied in London in 1778. Ho does not state his authority for cnlling the riror by the
numo of Origan, or Oregon ; and it has been supposed by some that it was an invention of
his own. It has also been stated that it is from the Spaniards, from the " orugivno," or
wild marjoram {origanum, Lat.), said to grow on its bunks.

The native names appear to be very incapable of being rendered into European ortho-
graphy. Thoir pronunciation iu so very imperfect, that it is almost impousiblu to arrive at

THE COAST OF OREGON.

279

Aeeorcling to the census of 1880, the population of Oregon amounted to
174,767, its area amounting to about 96,030 square miles. In 1870 there were
80,923 inhabitants. Agriculture and the raising of cattle are the principal in-
dustries. The Indian inhabitants, who are scattered in numerous tribes through-
out the territories of Oregon and Washington, are, it is supposed, rapidly de-
creasing in numbers, from their dissipated lives and their rude treatment of
diseases. They acted in many instances as the allies and hunters for the white
men settled among them, but on more than one occasion have proved the
treachery of the wild man's character.

On the coast between Cape Lookout and Cape Flattery, and up the Columbia
to the first rap '.s, the singular custom prevails among the Indians of compress-
ing the skuUa of the infants. Thus the heads of all acquire a remarkable de-
formity, but which does not appear to affect their intellectual capacity.

Fish is very abundant in these regions, especially salmon ; and in the subse-
quent pages some accounts are given of enormous quantities being found in the
fresher water at the heads of the extensive and singular inlets which penetrate
the coast to the northward. The salmon is of several varieties, and in the
spawning season they ascend the Columbia and other rivers for 600 or 800
miles above the mouth. A singular fact occurs in this migration : one variety
ascends the Cowlitz, another the Columbia, another the Willamette, &c., &c.,
that which is peculiar in one stream never being found in the other. When
they are taken in the upper parts of the rivers, they have their tails and fins
nearly worn off with the effect of their long and difficult ascent of these rapid
streams, and arc almost unfit for food.

The climate of western Oregon and Washington is mild, having neither the
extremes of heat during the summer, nor of cold during winter ; this is probably
owing to the prevalence of the S.W. winds, and the mists which they bring
with them from the ocean. The winters are short, lasting from December to
February, and may be termed open. Snow seldom falls, and, when it does,
lasts but a few days. Frosts are. however, early, occurring in the latter part
of August, which is accounted for by the proximity of the snowy peaks of the
Cascade Kange, a mountain or easterly wind invariably cp.using a great fall in
the temperature. These winds are not frequent ; and during the summer of
1841 they were noted but a few times. The wet season lasts from November
till March ; but the rains are not heavy, though frequent, the annual rainfall
ranging from 67 to 125 inches, being greatest on the coast of Puget Sound.
The climate during winter is not unlike that of England ; and as to temperature,

any satisfactory conclusion as to tho real names, and each voyager has reprpscntcd the
same woid in very different forms, so that an absolute 8tand;ii'd must not be expected.
Sir Oeorge Simpion gives some amusing instances of the imperfection of their powers of
speech.

7^a

i ■Jj

■hh

280

THE COAST OF OREGON.

Ml ■ I

I'M} i:

,i:

'3'-

is equally mild with that of 10° lower latitude on the eastern coast of the
United States.

Chet-ko River. — About G^ miles north-westward of Smith River entrance,
and in lat. ■I'i'^ 2' 30" N., empties this stream, which is from 50 to 60 yards
wide at its mouth, with banks about 100 ft. high, and bounded half a mile in
shore with very high hills. It appears deep and sluggish, and in August,
1853, was completely closed at its mouth by a heavy gravel beach. The an-
chorage off it is open and exposed from West to South, with several reefs in
and around it. Indian huts were found in great numbers upon both banks, but
most of the Indians were engaged higher up the stream in taking salmon.

According to the U.S. survey the shores of Chet-ko Bay or Cove are lined
with rocks and shoals, reaching from 1 to 4 cables off, but o'lisidc these the
depths oppear to be regular. There is anchorage in 6J fathoms, sand, with
Bar Hock and Miller's house in line N. by W., the former 2 cables distant. Bar
Rock lies li cable S.S.W. from the entrance of the river. It is high water, on
full and change, at ll*"; tides rise 4 f( ' t. The extremity of Chet-ko Point,
on the West side of the bay, is in lat. 1 2' 29" N., long. 124° 17' 37" W.

MACK REEF. — About 12^ miles north-westward of Chet-ko Cove is Mack
Eeef, consisting of a line of rocks above water, extendi g in a N.W. by N.
and S.E. by S. direction, and nearly adjoining the shore at Crooks Point; the
highest, called Mack Arch. 228 ft. high, being at the southern extremity, and
unmistakeable from the large opening through it. Mack Arch is in lat.
42° 13' 37" N., long. 124° 24' 46' W. The coast between the Chet-ko and
Mack Point, is high, bol'' compact, and bordered by vast numbers of rocks,
with very deep water close inshore.

To reach the anchorage behind the reef, steer to pass a short distance east-
ward of Mack Arch, and when between Mack Reef and the shore, witli Mack
Aich bearing S. by E. J E., and Mack Point N.E. by N. ^ N., there is good
anchorage in 6 J fathoms, sandy bottom, with the reef IJ to 2 cables distant.
Northward of this anchorage is an inner anchorage, separated from the outer
by a thick belt of kelp, extending from the beach to the reef, but through
which there is a clear channel. Bring the highest point of Mack Arch to
bear astern S. J E., and steer N. % W. ; this will lead through the channel in
from 3J to 4 fathoms, and avoid a sunken rock with only 2 ft. at low water,
which lies at the edge of the kelp on the eastern side. From the northern or
inner end of the channel, the course should be altered to the westward, and
good anchorage may be had just inside the kelp, in from 4 to 5 fathoms, sand,
with Mack Point bearing E. J N. and Mack Arch S. by E. ^ E.

Between the rocks forming Mack Reef there are passages leading to the
inner and outer anchorages, and ajjparently free from danger ; but they should
not be used imtil more closely examined.

Wood and water can be obtained at Mack Shelter, but no other supplies. It
is high water, on full and change, at 11'' 55" ; tides rise 3J feet.

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282

THE COAST nv oiuiaoN.

'»: i

abrupt and precipitous face to Port Orford. Many rocks closely bonier tlio
shore, ond 5 miles South of Port Orford a high, rocky ialet lies nearly a mile
off the jase of the hill, about 1,000 ft. high.

FOHT ORFOBD. — This is by far the best summer roadstead on the coast
between Point llcyes and the Strait of Juan do Fuca, and it has been proposed
to construct a harbour of refuge here. From the extremity of the S. W, point
eastward to the main shore the distance is 2 miles, and from this line the
greatest bend of the shore northward is 1 mile, formiug the port. The sound-
ings within this space range from 16 fathoms close to Tichenor Rock, forming
the West point of the bay, to 3 fathoms within one-quarter of a mile of tho
beach on the N.E. side, with 5 fathoms at the base of the rocky points on the
N.W. side towards Tichenor llock. One mile off tlie shores of the bay the
average depth is about 14 fathoms, regularly decreasing inshore.

The point forming the western part of tho bay presents a very rugged, pre-
cipitous outline, and attains an elevation of 850 ft. Its surface is covered
with excellent soil, and with a sparse growih of fir. From this point tho shore
becomes depressed to about 60 ft., at the northern or middle part of tho shore
of the bay, where the village is located. The hills behind are covered with a
thick growth of fir and cedar.

The anchorage is usually made with the eastern end of the village bearing
North, being just open to the East of a high rock on the beach, in fathoms
water, hard bottom, having a sharp, high point bearing N.W. by AV., a
quarter of a mile distant, the beach in front of the village distant a quarter of
a mile, and three rocks just in the 3-fathoms line E. by N., distant half a mile.
Steamers anchor a little to the eastward of this position, and closer to the
village, in 4 fathoms. Coasters from the South in summer beat up close
inshore, stretching inside of the outlying islets to avoid the heavy swell out-
side. Coming from the northward they keep just outside of a high rock one-
third of a mile off the western head, and round Tichenor Tlock within half a
mile. In winter, anchor far enough out to be ready to put to sea when a
south-easter comes up. During a protracted gale in December, 1851, a
terrible sea rolled iu that no vessel could have ridden out. The old steamer
Sea Gull was driven northward, and lost two weeks iu regaining her position,
and the mail steamer Columbia held her own for many hours off tho Orford
lieef.

The usual landing is between the rock called Battle Hoc/:, North of tho
anchorage, and the point of rock close on its West side. A road is cut from
here up to the village, which consists of but a few houses, and has a lumber-
mill. Sometimes a lauding is made on the rocky beach a quarter of a mile
westward of Battle Ecck, in the bight, where a sloping grassy bluff comes to
the water ; but this landing is over a rocky bottom. A road is cut up tho
slope to the site of the military post of Port Orford, which is now abandoned.
From Battle llock the shore eastward is skirted by a sand beach for 1^ mile

From
N.W. i
about a
N.W. by

is compos
ridge of
firs ; wl;

CAPE ORPOED OR BLANCO.

283

to a rouph, rocky point, called Coal I'oinl, off which is a cluster of rocks*
About iiiidwiiy in this distance empties a small creek, whoso banks are com-
posed of n deposit of auriferous sand and gravel, the same as found in front of
the village abreast of Battle Rock, and tvhich has yielded as high as 3U to 4U
dollars per diem to each miner. A group of rocks extends about half a milo
offshore, on the N.W. side of the creek. Battle Rock was so named because
liu! first adventurers made a stand against the Indians on this rock in .funo,
IH.31. Coal Point was so named from the reported existence of coal in this
vicinity.

Several attempts have been made to open a road from this place to the
mines about 00 or 70 miles e.istward, but thus far without success. Several
parties have gone through, but could find no direct available route for pack
a;.',, ials. Upon the opening of such a road it would become a large depot of
supply for the interior. In the neighbourhood of Port Orford arc found
immense quantities of the largest and finest white cedar on the coast, and
large saw-iuills are in operation, affording n supply of this lumber for the
San Francisco market, unapproachable in quality by any on the Atlantic coast.
The high mountain about 12 miles East of I'ort Orford is called Pilot Knob.
'n»is bay was called Ewimj Harbour in 1850 by Lieut. MeArthur, but is now
known by no other name than Port Orford from its proximity to Capo
Orford.

It is high water in Port Orford (corrected cstublishment) at 11'' 20""; mean
rise and fall o'l ft. ; of spring tides 6 ft. 10 in. ; neaps 3 ft. 8 in. The top of
the ridge West of the village is in about lat. 42° 44' 22' N., long. 124-^ 30' W.

From the western extremity of Port Orford, Cape Orford or Blanco bears
N.W. J N., distant CJ miles, the shore lino between them curving eastward
about a mile. Klooqueh Hock lies about 3 cables off shore, nearly a mile
N.W. by W. of Tichenor Rock. Immediately North of Port Orford the shore
is composed of a very broad loose sand beach, backed by a long uniform sand
ridge of 100 ft. in height, covered with grass, fern, sallal bushes, and a few
firs; wh'le behind t'.iis the ground falls and forms lagoons and marshes. This
ridge extends nearly to the mouth of a stream called Elk River, 4^ miles from
Tichenor Rock. This narrow stream, fordable at its mouth at low tides,
coracs for miles through broad marshes covered with fir and white cedar, and
an almost impenetrable undergrowth. The South side at the mouth is low,
sandy, and flat ; the North side, a slope rising from the marsh inshore, and
terminating on the beach in a perpendicular bluft", averaging 100 ft. high,
covered with timber to its very edge for a couple of miles, when the timber
retreats some distance inland. The face of this bluff' exhibits vast numbers of
fossil shells in the sandstone. At its base a sand beach exists which may bo
travelled at low water.

CAPE ORFORD or BLANCO.— In making this capo from the northward
or southward, it presents a great sinxilarity to Point Conoopcion, appearing

•lit m±\

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RH i''>rr

HH (^

•^

281

THE COAST OF OUEOOX.

first as an iKinnd, because the neck conncctinj? it with t ■ i> main Is compara-
ti/cly Jow, flat, and destitute of trees, with which the cape is lioavily covered
to the edge of the cliff. It is perhaps over 200 ft. Jiigh, but the trees upon it
make it appear at least 1 00 ft. more. The sides are very steep, and worn away
by the action of the sea, showing a dull w' itish appearance usually, but bright
when the sun is shining ujjon them,* Ai, the base arc many black rocks and
ledges stretching out to form the inner part of Orford Kccf. In the bend
8.E. of the cape, rises a I.:jjh, large, single rock, about 100 yards from tho
beach. The approximate geographical position of the cape ib lat. 42° 50' N.,
long. 124° 33' W., being thus the most western part of tb^j main land until
lat. 47° 50' is reached.

The LIGHTHOUSE on Cape Orford is a white towov, 50 ft. high, standing
on the highest part of tho cape, it shows afxed bright light, elevated 250 ft.,
and visible 23 miles.

ORFORD REEF, about 4 miles off tho coast, between Port and Capo
Orford, is a group of rocky islets and sunken rocks. Tlicrc arc seven largo
high ones within an area of 1 square mile, with small ones that are just awash,
and others upon which the sja only breaks in very heavy weather.

The south-eastern rock is called Fin Rock, and has a perpendicular face to
the S.W., with a sloping surface to th-^ N.E. Near it are several low black
rocks. Fin llock lies W. J N. distant 4 J miles from the western point of Port
Orford, and the general direction of the six others is N.N.W. from Fin Eock.
West of Port Orford, and distant 4. J miles, is a small black rock, and near it is
a smaller onP; upon which the .sea breaks only occasionally. At 4^^ miles
\V. by N. i N. iK'Tn Port Orford, lies the largest of the seven islets, rising up
with high and nuurly perpendicular sides. On the same course, and 1} mile
further out, is a small oek, and halfway between them is a rock awash. This
is the northern limit ov the group.

Stretching S.S.W. for IJ mile from Capo Orford are numer6us rocky islets
and sunken rocks, with large fields of kelp ; but ceasing at that distance a
passage is left IJ mile wide between them and the northern islets of the other
jTrouj), with 9 to 19 fathoms in it. This passage is in constant use by mail
ttjd coasting steamers, but great caution is necessary to avoid the sunken rocks
on either side.

At 1 mile North of Cape Orford is a small stream having a great number of
rocks off its mouth. In 1851 it was usually called Sikhs River, the Chinook
" jargon " name for friend. On some maps we find a stream near this
locality called Sequalchin River. The Tillage upon the Kikhs is called
Te'cheh-quut.

• It was named Capo Blanco on tho old Spanbh maps, from tfie assertion of Antonio
Flores in 1603, but the name Capo Orford was given by Vancouver in 1792, in honour of
his much respected friend Iho noble Earl (George) of that title.

but m

althoii

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Nor

a marl

dunes,

inountn

points 1

and bu!

southwi

COQI

lat. 43"

H mile

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Along tl

of a mile,

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Jt (1851).
lessen the
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spreads or
tho river
with man
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and destro
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'Jlie hv
shows only
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CAPE G]

ther

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Gregory, wh|
elevation 2

COQUILLE EIVKR— CAPK ORKGOllY.

•86

At 10 miles North of Cnpo Orford, La Purousc plnccs n onjic cdlcd Toledo,
but no headland exists between Orford nnd the South head of the Coquille,
although a ni. all stream ealled Floru's Creek empties upon the coast about
halfway between them.

Northward of Cape Orford the appearance nnd nntura of the coast assumes
a marked change. Long reaches of low white sand beach occur, with sand
dunes, broken by bold rocky headlands, and backed by high irregidar ridgen of
mountains. On the sea-fiice and southern sides of many of these prominent
points uo timber grows, nnd they jiresent a bright lively green of fern, gass,
and bushes. The general altitude of the mountains appears the same as to the
southward.

COQUILLE RIVER.— From Cnpo Orford to the mouth of the Coquillc, in
lat. •13-' 8', the const runs exactly North for 18 miles, with a slight curve of
) ^ mile eastward, and a short distance North of Cape Orford, consists of a
low sand bench, immedintcly behind which are long shallow Ingoons, re-
ceiving the wntcr from the mountains, but having no visible outlet to the sen.
Along this shore the soundings range from 7 to 16 fathoms at a distanci.
of a mile.

'J South point of the entrance to Coquillc Eiver is a high bluff headland,
w he North point is a long, low, narrow spit of sand, overlapping, as it

w .1- southern head, so that the channel runs parallel with and close under

it (1851). A short distance off it lie several rocks, but not of sufficient size to
lessen the western swell which breaks continually across the bar.

The entrance is about 200 yards ncross in its widest jMrt, and it then
spreads out into n large sheet of shallow water, into the N.I"/, part of which
the river runs from the interior. It drains "x very fertile region, clen.<.'ly covered
with many vnrieties of wood. Numerous Indian encampments were found
nlong its banks from the mouth, and quite extensive fiuh weirs were discovered
and destroyed. About 15 miles from its mouth there is a portage of 1^ mile
to Koos Eivcr.

llie hydrogrnphie rcconnaissnncc of this river in 1859 by the Coast Survey
shows only 3 ft. of water on the bar, ar.d it was reported inaccessible for
vessels of ordinary draught. The North point is n long stretch of dreary sand
dunes, and has n single bold rock nt its southern extremity. The channel
made out straight from the southern head, and North of the rocks. The
approximate position of its entrance is Int. '13"^ 8' N., long. 124"' 25' W.

Works nre now in progress for deepening the channel over the bar, by con-
structing jetties, and in 1883 thuru was a flepth of 7 it. at lov.- water. There
is a small steam-tug here. Timber is exported to San Francisco.

CAPE GREOORT or Arago.— Between Coquillc lliver and this headland
there is another low sand beach for 10 miles to the southern part of Cape
Gregory, which rises up very precipitously; the hill, attaining perhaps 2,000 ft.
elevation 2 miles back, runs in a straight line northward for 3 or 4 miles, and

. :\

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b*,:

V^l^

:m.

tmu:.

286

THE COAST OF OREGON.

i:t

it. la »;; I

bounded by mnny rocks, slopes to the northward to a sharp perpendicular
point, about CO ft. hijjh, and peculiarly cut and worn by the action of the sea.
Thence it takes a sharp turn to the K.N.I';, for 2 miles, to the entrance of lioos
Bay. The co^)c, as seen from the southward, .shows a couple of rocks a .'«hort
distance from its western point. Along the low shore, soundings in 10 fathoms
are found 1 mile off.

It is sf^ted that vessels anchoring under the North foce of the cape may
ride out heavy S.E. gales. If so, it is very important, no other place between
Sir Francis Drake's and Neu-ah Bays being known to afford tiiat protection.
If a south-caster should haul to the S.W., and then N.W., as they u.sually do,
the chances of getting out would be very few. A lifeboat is stationed here.

It was named by Capt. Cook, who placed it by bearings in lat. 43" 80', and
is described by him as follows : " This point is rendered remarkable by the
land of it rising iraraediately from the sea to a tolerable height, and that on
each side of it is very low." Vancouver placed it in 43° 23'. It is sometimes
called by the recent appellation of Arago, which has been adopted on the Coast
Survey charts. It is known by both on the western coast.

The LIGHTHOUSE at Cape Gregory stands on a small island off the
western extremity of the cape, the keeper's white house being 350 yards from
it, at the So\ith end of the island. T'ae tower is of iron, painted white, and
25 ft. high; it shows ajixed brlr/ht light, varied by a Jkish and eclipse, each
of 3 seconds duration, every 2 minutes ; elevated 75 ft., and visible 14 miles.
Lat. 40° 20' 38" N., long. 124° 22' 11 W.

KOOS BAY.— Nearly 2 miles E.N.E. of the northern extremity of Cape
Gregory is the wide and well-marked entrance to Koos or Coos I'ay. Tiio
South point, named Koos Head, is high and bold, being the base of the hills
forming the cape, whilst the North point is low and sandy, with shifting sand
dunes that reach 100 ft. in height. In 1861 a narrow channel cut across the
North point, forming a tolerably large island, which Mas washed away before
the close of the season. Such changes arc constantly taking place, and involve
changes in the bar and channel. The points lie nearly North and South of
each other, and about three-quarters of a mile apart. About a cable off Koos
Head is an isolated rock named Guano liock.

'J'he bar, in 1805, was N. by W. ^ W., 1} mile from Koos Head; 2}
miles to the N.N.E. of Capo Gregory lighthouse ; and its width between
the breakers on the East and West sides was less than 1 cable, with 4 fathoms
at the entrance, shoaling to 7 ft. farther in. From the inner part of the bar,
the channel increases in width, and deepens to 10 fathoms off Koos Head,

Tn 1880 an automatic Whistle buoy, painted in black and white stripes, was
moored in 15 fathoms, 1^ mile "\V. by N. } N. from the outer part of the bar,
with Cape Gregory lighthouse bearing 8. by E. I ]]., distant II mile. A buoy
is also moored on the inner side of the bar.

In 1853 and 1854 a depth of only '.) to ".)} ft. could be found on the bar.

Durin j: i

moved to

river bars

to the N.

smoother

smooth.

pletely ao

supposed :

employed

on full am

Empire

Traffic is i

Francisco i

sumption, I

geology of

mines, and

previous ye

ingtoii Ten

115,000 ft.

vessels have

^\'orks an

structing je

depth of Wi't

'i"ho bay
letter U, wit
ward behind
of water in i(
depth of wa
depth from 3
mile, and rui
on the easteri
and shallows,
of the channo
a huot/. The
head of it beix
A'oos liiver
for 20 miles ft
liiver is so nc;
and about 15
J'^xoepting i
of the entranc
pi.ies. No lai
Ifiver the bottt

KOOS BAY.

287

Duiin.!; the working season of 18G1 the bar, wlilcih then had 13ft. over it,
moved to tlic northward, tluis indicating great changes in this as in all other
river bars on the coast. I5etween 1861 and 1865 it had shifted about 6 cables
to the N.N.E. Vessels enter and leave on the flood-tide, because the bar is
smoother ; with the ebb there is a heavy break, unless the sea be remarkably
smooth. In moderate N.W. v.eather the sea has been observed to break com-
pletely across the entrance. The currents run very strongly, as might be
supposed from the extent of the bay and size of the channel. A tug-boat is
employed at the entrance for towing vessels over the bar. It is high water,
on full and change, at 11'' 2G'" ; springs rise (ij ft., neaps oj feet.

Empire City lies on the East side of the river, about 3J miles above the bar.
Traffic is drawn hither by the mining of lignite, which is carried to the San
Francisco market in schooners; it has becu found unfit for steam-ship con-
sumption, but is used for small stationary engines and domestic purposes. The
geology of the country does not give promise of true coal. There arc several
mines, and in 1883, 25,000 tons were shipped, a diminution as compared with
previous years, the coal being of inferior quality to that obtained from Wash-
ington Territory. There arc four saw-mills on the baj-, turning out about
115,000 ft. of lumber daily. There arc also some ship-building yards, where
vessels have been built up to 2,000 tons.

Works are now in progress for improving the channel over the bar, by con-
structing jetties, which are stated to have already caused an increase in the
depth of Wi'ter.

The bay is very irregular in outline, and its general shape is like the
letter U, with the convexity to the North. One small branch stretches south-
ward behind Koos Head ; it is called the South Sloiigh, and has but 2 or 3 ft.
of water in it. North of the entrance the bay proper begins, and has a good
depth of water. Abreast of the Nortii point the width is GOO yards, and the
depth from 3 to 7 fathoms ; thence northward it increases in width to nearly a
mile, and runs very straight on a N. by ]']. ^ E. course. The channel runs
on the eastern side of this part, the western half being filled with sand flats
and shallows. A sunken rock, called Fearless Rock, lies on the eastern side
of the chaimel, abreast of the upper part of the rocky shore, and is marked by
a huoy. The whole length of the bay is estimated to be about 25 miles, the
head of it being a little further South than the entrance.

Koos liiver empties into the head of the bay, and will give passage to boats
for 20 miles from its mouth, where a small slough that empties into Coquillo
Kiver is so n(>ar as to leave a portage of only 1 J mile between the two waters,
and about 15 miles from the mouth of the Coquillc.

I'lxcepting the peninsula, which forms the western shore of the bay North
of the entrance, the entire country is an immense forest of various kinds of
pi.ies. No laud for cultivation is found without clearing, and even on Koos
Uivcr the bottom lands, which atford excellent soil, have to be cleared of the

>, ^>

-^r'i-;i«'j

288

THIi COAST OF OIIKGON.

fr '

1^ WW.' > f !

thick grow til of laurel, maple, and myrtle. Tiie coal mines aro beyond the
great bend, near the head of the bay, and on the western side.

The name Koos is that, approaching nearest the Indian pronunciation of the
word. On some maps wc find a stream called Cahoos or Kowes, emptying
just South of Capo Gregory.'*

UMPOUAH aiVER.~North of Koos Bay to the Umpquah Kiver is
another straight low sand beach, with sand dunes, backed by a high ridge of
hills densely timbered. The shore runs nearly North, presenting a very white
appearance when the sun shines upon it, and having from 10 to 15 fathoms of
water 1 mile off the beach. The southern point of the entrance to the river is
a marked spur of the mountains from the S.E., and is bordered by sand dunes.
The North side of the entrance is a long range of white shifting sand-hills,
running with the coast for 2 miles, and suddenly changing to high rocky hills,
covered with wood.

Umpquah Kiver is the largest stream entering the Pacific between the
Sacramento and Cohunbia Rivers. It is ol miie.*5 N, \ W. from Cape Orford,
and 21 rnilos North of Cape Gregory. The lower reach of the river is long
and narrow, running nearly North for G miles; bordered on the South side by
a rocky wooded shore, and on the North, for 2 miles, by loose sand-hills,
changing, after the first mile, to sand sparsely covered with coarse grass,
bublics and fir, and in 4 miles to steep, high, rocky banks, covered with large
trees. An immense ilat, mostly bare at low water, stretches South from the
North point to within 300 yards of the South side of tlic entrance, through
which narrow space runs the channel, having a bar with only 13 ft. upon it in
1853, and less than 100 yards wide. From the bar the point of bluff just
inside the entrance bore N.E. by E., distant 1^ mile. lu 1881 the depth
on the bar was stated to be 18 ft.

The bar is subject to great and frequent changes, and should not bo
attempted by a stranger. In light weather the breakers on each side point
out the channel, but with a heavy swell the sea is terrific. Several ves.scis
have been lost here, and on one occasion a steamer, which had struck on ',he
bar in entering, was detained for several ^v•ecks, the depth having so much
decreased. Vessels which can cross the bar can ascend as far as Gardner
City, 5 miles above the bar; small vessels can reach Scotisburg- 20 suiics
farther.

In IS.^l or 1852 two range marks were placed on the South shore for
running in by, and they are frequently referred to as data by which to trace
the changes of the bar, but the captain who erected them assured the sur-
veyors that the bar was not on their range, but to the southward of it.

Buoys for crossiny l/ie bar. — In January, 1858, it was announced that the

• Tho word Koos signilles in tho Too-too-tim liineuago ii luko, lagoon, or Inmllockod
bay. Duilot do Mofras very amusingly translates it M. do Viichcs (cows river).

bar had b

The inner

low water,

buoy was j

tide, and c

range with

to the beac

tho outer bi

light was di

' and the buo

After cros

creases in dt

Abreast of tl

I'ook, visible

not been ace

across tho riv

mile from its (

which the cho

mid-river, and

North five-eig

'I'he small ind{

stretch from th

teiisivo mudfla

tlicji expands tc

'lilts. At 5 mil

TJiis river is s

land, well adapt

(iisc'overed in tin

■">'' "'I ft. in circ

'■- Kah-la-wat-sc!

•^lueh salmon is (

^'om tho Um

^^- i ^V. to tho I

'.vin^' more than ;

HECETA BAJ

^'nithern end of a

"')|»it tho same dii

i;«homs, and tho n

faiisc blue sand,

''ivo offcn reporte(

''■I'iow; frequently

'iiscovered this ban

<Ao/Y/< Pari/ir.

VMVaVAU BIVffl-„ECK-A BANK.

I"" >.«<1 boon „„kd by ,„„„„„ .„ . ^- S8!>

'7 ™ "»«■' i« o-tsid. the b»" t ? L'"* °"'^ "°«' "■ "• Tbe o„,„.
fie, »d .„„ld .,,„ b, '» '« ftttom. at ,ho .ame sUgc of ,|,„

r"f ""> "■<. lightho J, which °tid! ..°°c '"'"« "'° «■"■ '""J' °

« a. be„h, „b,,i , of ,,i4 ::,' "J*!" °"* »* »f 'be c„ta.co c o
o outer „oy. h ft. c.u,d bo oLiod ^ ,t b» / "' "'"■"' ' "■'"= '-

«n the b„o,.. „„e removed. " "" *"" '*«'.« the b,.h,ho„so

After erossing the bar the channel „,„. ,
-a,e. in depth fr„,„ 3J f,„h,„"t H fa! "* '° "" '™'l' •'■°". ."<! in-
'll.rea»t of the meeting „f the™,!, ,, ""' "" ""' P"" of tile bluff

.;«-.. visibic at e.rc„: C^:\^\Ct^^ °'T ^"""' ^'-« " '•
'"' ''«"■ «"»«ly determined. Pr«„ 1 "" ''"'=• '" P"'"™ bas

». lofrom „. o«remit,, the„ha„, aor Jp ^r ' f°'"' '"'™' """W -f •
*oh the channel „„,. n„ ..ZV.f'.L"' I"" ■""" '"-— "■ong
"■"1-mer. and bearing E.N.E. fro„ u,7? !^^^ '^ "' •■■ "" »"'' '»*» in
^"nh fivceighth, of a mi,c f„ ' " "'° .''™"' «■«' -f the North p„i„, '„j
The., nail i„,cn^„„„ of .be^r,c Le'""" I' '"" "'""^ '■° "'« '*».! •.' "
; -'=h from the p„i„. of .he hit '"a J ,5 » ff • f - ™.ting the tt

" " "'"'"''"■ ""^ ""Ic. in«de .hot. I ""■ •^''■'' '-'' ■» but an „.,.
'"■ e«Pnnd, ,„„ „,„„, „„,, .^ 5,,^,^™'*" "-"'"'"-tinueshalf a ,„il„„.ido

''"" "ver i, .aid „ j,^„ ^ ojtremct f o ''" "" "" '""™'<1-
- -11 adapted to ngrieultore a'd ^I'in!"''", "'''r ""--"'i^ '" P*o

"-■■ »'"- ^ »:;' h:r° *'■ -' "^^ «ppi. .be na":rc:;;;,f

■."■-= u„,re than 3 mile.'cl^j '"r,"" '° ^'°'"""''» ""■°^" "o eat' v^
'-'»'». »nd the „a„„o „ ^ '' J '° '-»' *P". J'" <i«eo,ered „p W ;'

«"o blue ,and, coral „„ , , " '"'^ """We, there bei„..

'•"■'■"Oonrepor, dZ ' ' '""'■'"• -"""i' »»" "bell. , 2 " '""*

Wed thi. bant '"^ ""««»'' W <o the e.,ami„a,' „„ „S

!» iv- mJ iira^gi M^t-- '<

3 »■■

:-!-t

■f1

lifS"

I t

<f^

iiii

m, , .

f^ii'i:i.

■Ai ■

H h3

:^|'.

ji W'-

•'"4 ■

'S :?|

200

THE COAST OF OREGON.

When ITcceta was upon this coast, and in this vicinity, he said, "On Sunday
I found great diiToicnces (of depth) at 7 leagues. I got bottom at 80 fathomB,
and nearer the coast I sometimes found no bottom." Should a thorough ex-
amination of liis discoveries here satisfactorily show that he did really cross
this or any yet undiscovered adjacent bank, it would be a tribute to bis ex-
plorations on this coast to apply his name to it.

After leaving the Umpquah, 2 or 3 miles, a bold rocky coast, with high steep
hills covered with timber, runs straight for about 8 miles, changing to low
sandy beach with sand dunes, backed by a high ridge of hills. This continues
for 15 miles, when the hills stretch out to the shore, and crowd upon it for 13
miles, to end abruptly in steep bluffs forming Capo Pcrpetua. At 7 and 1 1
miles, respectively, northward of the Umpquah are Takhenitch Creek and
Ixillcoos River, which lead to some lagoons 1 or 2 miles inland. Cape Heceta,
the northern limit of the sand dunes above described, is about 800 ft. high,
and covered with wood, but the seaward face, which is 1 J or 2 miles in extent,
is green to the edge of the cliff. Its northern extremity is in about lat.
44° 9' N., near which is a small sandy cove ; two small cascades are seen near
the southern part.

CAPE PEEPETUA is 39 miles N. by W. \ W. from the Umpquah, its
approximate geographical position being lat. 44° 19' N., long. 124° 6' W.
This cape wns named by Cook in 1778. The face of the cape is nearly 5 miles
long, with a very slight projection from the straight trend of the shore. It is
very high, and has a regular though steep descent to the shore, bringing the
trees to its very edge. To the northward of Terpetua the coast range of
hills is cut by numerous valleys, through which flow many small streams to
the ocean.

From the Umpquah to Capo Perpetua, nt a distance of a mile from the shore,
soundings are laid down from 8 to 14 fathoms. From thence to Capo Foul-
weather the soundings range from 7 to 12 fiitlioms at the samo distance off.

Alseya River, — Northward of Cape Pcrpetua the shore continues straight,
high, and bold, and at 8J miles distant is Alseya River, which expands, within
its narrow cntninoo, nearly to the size of Yaquina llivcr. A bmad sandy point
forms its North head; the depth on the bar is uncertain. Northward of
Alseya lUvor the shore is marked by sand dunes for 4 miles, or as far as Seal
Jioeks, southward of Reaver Creek. Thence to the Yaquina llivcr the shore is
low, and thickly wooded.

YAftUINA klVEE.— At 21 miles N. by W. i W. of Capo Perpetua is the
entrance to Yaquina llivcr, the northern head of which, as seen from the S.W.,
appears as a bold sandy bluff, surmounted by a clump of fir-trccs near the
southern extremity ; a line of low black rocks extends about 4 cables S. by W.
from the bluff. The iSouth point i° lower than the northern, and is thickly
wooded nearly to the beach. The interior country is hilly, and also thickly
wooded.

from

it ap

Water

struct

and tl

the wi

nnd th

at 5 or

Aboi

outside

consistii

reef, hoi

13-ft. ro

and aboij

A beac

and two 1

IJ'-"-- a I

U mHe S,

is a d/aci ;

tween lyfn

channel de

'■i moored c

shore.

'i"hc (owi

I'-'nst side ol

known as I

Oysters are

some s,".w-ni

IS high wate

A raihvnv

I'ortland at

^"•'"^7- It is

^vorks have n

here.

Above jVch
distance of 1 :
t'le river; ad
J'li'cs between
Vessels boui
J't^rpctua, 22J-
'" sight up to
'Tostward of th

YAQUINA EIVER.

291

The bar extends away from the rocks off the North head, and is never free
from breakers on each side of the channel, except at extreme high water, when
it appears about half a mile wide. The depth on the bar was 9 ft. at low
water, at the time of the survey in 1870, but jetties are now under con-
struction, to improve the entrance, which has already deepened in consequence;
and the engineers expect to increase it to 17 ft. at low water by continuing
the works. The bar is reported to be smoothest in June, July, and August ;
and the summer winds arc favourable for entering or leaving. The current runs
at 5 or 6 knots between the heads when s^'-nnsrest.

About three-quarters of a mile from the shore, and at a quarter of a mile
outside the bar, is a very dangerous reef, about 1^ mile long North and South,
consisting of numerous rocks with 6 to 18 ft. upon them at low water. This
reef, however, acts as a breakwater against the westerly seas. A dangerous
12-ft. rock, which breaks at low water, lies south-westward of the entrance,
and about a mile off shore.

A beacon v.as built upon the North head, as a guide for making the entrance ;
and two beacons were placed on the soutliern point as a range for crossing tlie
bar. A black buoy is moored in GJ^ fathoms, just outside the bar, and nearly
\\ mtle S.W. by S. from the North head. At a mile N.E. J Y.. from this buoy
is a black and white, buoy, marking the inner edge of the bar, the channel be-
tween lying on a curve southward oi" this line. Above the latter buoy the
channel deepens to 6 fathoms, betweou the heads, and off Newport a red buoy
is moored on the East side of the narrow channel, which runs near the western
shore.

The town of Newport consists of shout twenty or thirty houses, built on the
East side of the North head, and f;'o;ng the large expanse of shallow water
known as Yaquina Il<iy, through which the river runs in a narrow channel.
Oysters arc abundant here, and are shipped to Sun Francisco. There are also
.some sr.w-mills. Tlie town is in lat. 44^ 40' 30" N., long. 124" 4' 4o' W. It
is high water, on full and change, at l^*"; springs rise 7i' ft.

A railway is being constructed from Yaquina Hay to join the line from
Portland at Corvullis, about GO miles inland, in the feitilo Willamette
valley. It is expected that when this railway is completed, and the harbour
works have made the entrance safe for large vessels, a large trade will arise
here.

Above Newport the river takes a general E.N.E. direction to lilk City, a
distance of 12 miles in a straight line, but about 23 miles by the windings of
the river ; a depth of 9 ft. can bo carried uj) as far as this. A small steamer
pliL's between the two places.

Vessels bound for the Yaquina from the southward should first make Capo
I'erpetua, 22.1- miles southward of the river, and endeavour to keep the shore
in sight up to tlic entrance, and carefully avoid the 12-ft. rock lying south-
westward of the latter. Vessels from the northward should sight Yaquina

■ ■. .'•.■■- - ■■ • ' '. ?■ A* ? ,

!■■ w:'r,:'iA, ''^ ■'-•VIS I

■wm-m

\ -

•~\ '

- ,1

292

THE COAST OF OREGON.

■il!IM

111,

Head, with its liglitbouse, which will servo as a guide to the river entrance, 3 J
miles to the southward. The buoys marking the bar, and the beacons, if still
existing, will then point out the bar channel, but a pilot would be necessary
for a stranger.

YAftUINA HEAD and EIGHTHOUSE.— From the North head of Yaqnina
River the shore, for 3J- miles to N.N.W., is a long line of bluffs, 100 to 200 ft.
high, with shoal water oif it, as far as Yaquina Head, southward of Cape Foul-
weather, Yaquina Head is a high, bold point, extending about half a mile
into the sea from the low beach, with two conical hills on it, 300 to 400 ft.
high, backed by high mountains. When 2 or 3 miles off the river, its grassy
heads show against the bolder headland of Cape Foulweathcr. On its ex-
treme point stands a white lighthouse, 81 ft. high, showing a Jixcd bright
light, elevated 161 ft., and visible 19 miles. Lat. 44" 43' 30" N., long.

124° .y \V.

CAFE FOTJLWEATHER. — There seems to have been some uncertainty as
to tlic exact position of this cape, the point now known as Yaquina Head boiii^^
marked as Cape Foulweather on some charts. This cape was named by Cooic
on the day he made the coast, March Gth, 1778, but the point of the headland
is not that referred to by him. At noon he was in lat. 44^ 33', and the land
extended from N.E. ^ N. to S.E. by S., about 8 leagues distant. In this situa-
tion he had 73 fathoms over a muddy bottom, and 90 fathoms a league fiirther
olf shore. The land he describes of moderate height, diversified by hills and
valleys, and principally covered with wood. No striking object presented it-
self, except a high hill with a flat summit, which bore Easi from him at noon.
This may have been what he subsequently called Cape Perpetua. At the
northern extreme the land formed a point, which he named Cape Foulweatlier,
from the exceedingly bad weather he met with soon after. The expression
" northern extucme " has led some geographers to place the cape as high as
hit. 4 Ji^ but he judged the Foulweather he named to be in lat. 44° 55'. Being
here driven off the coast by continued bad weather, he had no opportunity to
verify his position, and did not sight the land again till in lat. 47° 5', thus pass-
ing by the entrance to the Columbia. Vancouver places it in l;it. 44"" 49'.
I5oth of these determinations evidently refer to the northern part of the high
land, now known as Cape Foulweather.

About 4 miles northward of Yaquina Head commences the long, bold face
of the headland now known as Cape Foulweather. Low yellow cliffs line the
shore, and at nearly 3 miles from Yaquina Head a low black rock lies half a
mile off shore ; just southward of the southern limit of Cape Foulweather is a
large rock, the same distance off. The sea-face of the cape is about 5J miles
in extent N.N.W. i id S.S.E., and is marked by six or seven sloping grassy
heads, crowned with trees. Its elevation is estimated to be about 800 ft.
Northward of its westernmost point, which is about 7 miles northward of
Yaquina Head, is a small cove, behind a black point covered with trees, with

yell

nppi

the J

abrUj

it. .

.sand

strcar

shoal,

in ext

the ea

Froi

N. by

which i

in lat.

large i

South

to. De

Kaouai,

Casca

riirrged h

l"'{,'h, is (

the sea aj

the north'

having tw

may be ob

^vard slope

The Sou

trees, over]

mile wide,

""d Nekas

^^fad a timl

is lined by \

from Cascad

Haystack

southward ol

^^awuggah Ix

north-eastwai

and its summ

CAPE I0(

bHow from 13

increasing froi

Falcon, or Fa]

^^''''' mVEE-CAPE LOOKOUT
J-"o-cli/r nn,U„nd beach .vf ^.•„ ,,, '^'^' 29.1

nrprox.mateJy i» lat. 44° 52' IV '. "°'^^'™ oxtromity of the o,n„ •

shoal nn 7 • •. P°'"* '« ^ 'ow bhiff TJ, . ^ P"'"* o^ thc

from Cascade Head, having a hi^h rock off . '"""'^' °^ '^ «^^'->'^™. 9 miles

^%^^../t J?cc>^. about 12 mis nir : ""'''"" P*^'"*-
-thward of Cape Lookout, is a 1 I'r' ,"' ^'"-^^ "ead, «„d 8 .He.

«orth-eastward of it is ff„y,,,,/, PoinTJ ^^^' ""'^ "^°"' ^'^If a milo

ill' '•"III

i?rj :• '•It; I

§K,:^' v'^ll 1'

f ' ' •,» ^^ -^

I.' '

r • ' '. ' •

f^ff)''

J fr'firol

^^ . .' .

, I

• -1

i"?'

ir y

294

THE COAST OF OREGON.

■.A I

!■

mile from shore ; but, ns upon the whole coast, a heavy regular swell ro!i3 in
from the West.

Cape Lookout, 18 miles northward of Cascade Head, is situated in about lat.
45° 21' N., long. 123° 58' W. It projects somewhat sharply into the sea for
half a mile, and, as seen from the South, the top is tolerHbly flat and reguliir,
and at the highest part is estimated to attain an elevation of 3,000 ft. Tlic
face directly toward the ocean is perpendicular, high, and towards the South
destitute of trees. About 8 miles southward of it, Haystack Eock, off tlio
Nawuggah, stands well out from the low sand beach behind it, jirch Rock
lies off this cape, and one appears very close inshore, about a mile f.o the
northward of it.

CAPE MEABES. — Two or three miles after leaving Capo Lookout the 'and
falls to a low sand beach, behind which is a long lagoon, called the Nat-a-hats,
or Oyster Hay, having an opening under the South head of Cape Mcarcs, or
La Mesa, the well-marked point to the northward, which is the termination of
a spur or ridge, running from the south-eastward, presenting an abrupt front
to the ocean for about 2 miles, and being part of the western boundary of
Tillamook I5ay. Cape Meares is about 1,200 ft. high, and covered with trees,
its face being broken and blutf. Off it lie several arched rocks ; in approach-
ing from the southward four largo rocks show off the cape, two having arclies
through them. These rocks are about 150 ft. high, except the outermost,
which is smaller.

In coming down this coast in the fall of 1857, the surveyors made a few
notes upon some objects, and the following mcmoranduiu was made whilst nenr
this point : " Three high rocks (one arch) off the point South of False Tilla-
mook ; one more on the North side." Not being then aware of any doubt us
to the name of the cape, no other particulars were noted. Four rocks were
laid down off the S.W. face on the Coast Survey reconnaissance of 1850, and
one on the North. Three large rocks and one small one are laid down off the
S.W. face in the original sheets of the reconnaissance of 1853, the most distant
being 1 mile from shore, with several small ones between them and the shore,
and two or three others off the N.W. face.

TILLAMOOK BAY. — From Cape Meares the land falU. to a low narrow
peninsula of sand dunes, 40 or 50 ft. high, running N.W. by W., and covered
with trees for 3 miles, and then with grass and bushes for another mile, to the
entrance of Tillamook IJay, which is 23 miles southward of Tillamook Head.
The North side of the entrance rises abruptly to wooded hills, 1,200 ft. high,
and just within it is Green Hill, 420 ft. high, of a bright green appearance,
and destitute of trees.

In lBf)7 the bar off the entrance was about 1 J mile south-westward of Green
Ilill, and three-quarters of a mile from the nearest part of the North head.
The channel over it was narrow, but quite straight, and a depth of 15 ft. could
be carried through it at low water. The entrance to the bay is 3 cables wide,

butt

The I

break

rapid!
water,
river a
'I'ho se

its hea(

Aboi

liorfis, (

higli, of

ftom tli(

miles to

Nehaleni

NehaL

45° 40' N

almost uii

the river

ftwny to t

the river i

cut up by

(■July, 178,

•mined the

Grcnville.

Clarke, v

cipal town (

to a creek c

^nj'- Ui)oi]

the head of i

<hcular fall, i

""••C'ks settle

■isccnd it, til

Milloy, and dc

"btained from

'iistances from

tlie foremcntio

•'!'< about the p,

tlie description

CAPE FALl

hcs in lat. 45° .,

fica-face comin"

top 18 irregular,

TILLAMOOK BAY.
but tlic clinnncl is onlv twn ♦».•», ' '■^^'^

T1.0 „.„o«« p.„, ,; s^t It;* :'''?r"° "■° """■™ -

"•■'■■ f»8™y colour, 11.0 8outl,em°„ ll ""■'• ""J' ""> "l-.t «0 /

from .1.0 .ouU.„,rd. F„„ .Hon ,1"'* "° ""' "■"'"'.■l' »• "W,, !oc„

tl'e nver .s .separated from the sea bT a V f "'"'^^ "°'""™^'' "^ its mo th
ftwnv to thp iV P A ^ " sandy T)eiiin<ii.lo i • "»outh

,, «^S moo's, .rdX^-"^ J,-" «. Ti-CoirC ■ '"'

^ ^'^'•^ ^^^ic oUicr poixat. in

.« ;' "

,t ,

i '

ii .

« ^HRFSrl

< 1 ', I

29C

THE COAST OF OKEaON.

I \

I r

. 1

tiiis latitude, the southern face of the cape is destitute of trees, but eoTcred
with a thick growth of grass, bushes, and fern. Several rocks lie off tho cape,
one named Falcon or Last liock, 50 ft. high, lying t'lrcc-quarters of a mile
from tho land. About 2 miles northward of tho cape, and nearly a mile off
shore, is another isolated rock, 113 ft. high.

At 2 miles South of Capo Falcon is a stictch of sand beach and sand dunes,
and about three-quarters of a mile southward of it is a double-headed peak,
about 1 ,200 ft. high, covered with grass to the summit, and named Ne-ah-kah-
nie by the Indians. At the base, on tho oouta s.aO of the mouutoina, is a large
house.

TILLAMOOK HEAD.— This prominent cape, in lat. 45° 58', is 11 miles
N.N.W. from Cape Falcon, and 20 miles S.E. by S. ^ S. from Cape Disappoint^
mcnt. The coast from Capo Falcon curves about a milo eastward ; it is bold
and rugged, guarded by many high rocky islets ond reefs, and in several places
bordered by a low sand beach at the base of the cliffs. At 2 miles southward
of tho head, Clarke (1803-C) locates a creek 80 yards wide at its mouth, which
he calls Ecola, or AVhale Creek, now known as Elk Creek. Some rocks lie off
the coast, Arvh liock, HO ft. high, lying a qiiaitcr of a mile off, in lat.
45^ 55' N.

F'om the South bar of Columbia Eivcr tho summit of Tillamook Head ap-
po'irs flat for some distance back, and has an estimated height of 1,250 ft. Off
tho face of the cape, which is very steep, iio several rocky islets ; onu of thcni,
named 'Tillamoo'i Hock, on which is the lighthouse, is 115 ft. high, and rugged,
and stands out about a milo from the S.W. face. Around it the water is be-
lieved to be deep, u steamer having come almost upon it in a thick fog, but
inside of it Iio several high rocks. An isolated rock, just above water, lies
about midway between the rock and tho head, and though the least water
close to cither of these rocks is 15 fathoms, strangers should not attempt tho
passage, as the currents are strong and irregular. From the bar of Columbia
River two rocks can bo distinctly seen, the inner being the larger, and its
apparent distance from the head about half the apparent height of the cape.
As seen from the southward, the large rock has a perpendicular fact; to tho
westward, and slopes to the East. It is the resort of thousands of seals.
Vessels should not pass inside of the line joining Tillamook liock and Last or
Falcon Rock.

The LIGHTHOUSE on Tillamook Rock is 48 ft, high, and painted white ;
it shows a bright flashing light, with a flash every 5 seconds, elevated 133 ft.,
and visible 17 miles. With the light bearing between N. by W. } W. and
S.E. by S. i S. a vessel southward of Columbia River entrance will be clear of
danger. A Fog Siren, on the West side of the lighthouse, will sound a blast
of 5 seconds, at intervals of 1^ minute, in thick and foggy weather.

This cape is a good landmai-k for making the mouth of Columbia Eiver, no
such high headland occurring on the coast northward of it for over 70 miles,

COLUMBIA RIVER.

297

and before being up with it the moderately high land of Cupe Disappoiutmeut
is seen, and made as two islands.

The face of the cape is much broken, and formed principally of yellow clay,
presenting a bright appearance in the sunlight. Clarke says that 1.200 ft.
above the ocean occurs a stratum of white earth, then (1805-6) used by the
Indians as paint ; and that the hill-sides slip away in masses of 50 to 100 acres
at a time. Upon the top of the cape Clarke says he found good, sound, solid
trees growing to a height of 210 ft., and acquiring a diameter of from 8 to
12 ft.

From Tillamook Head southward many miles was the country of the Killa-
muck Indians, then estimated to number 1,000 people, and having fifty houses.
The coast from Point Orford to Tillamook head is well diversified by high hills
and valleys, presenting a country well watered by numerous small streams
emptying into the ocean. It is densely covered with various woods, and for a
few miles inland looks favourably from the deck of a vessel. Sonio distance iu
the interior ranges of mountains occur, the general direction of which appears
to be parallel with the coast-line, which attains its greatest elevation and com-
pactness between Cape Falcon and Tillamook Ilead, after which a sudden and
marked change takes place, and a stretch of low sandy coast commences, and
runs for nearly 100 miles northward, only broken by Cape Disappointment.

At 2 miles northward of Tillamook Head commences a peculiar line of low
sandy ridges, running parallel to the beach towards Point Adams, and appear-
ing like huge sand-waves covered with grass and fern. Between some of them
run small creeks, whilst the country behind is low, swampy, and covered with
wood, and an almost impenetrable undergrowth. About 3 miles North of the
head, Clarke says a beautiful stream empties, with a strong rapid current. It
is 85 yards wide, and has 3 ft. at its shallowest crossing, and is now known as
Nekanekum Creek, The coast is fronted by shallow water.

Vessels approaching Columbia River from the southward can pass with
safety half a mile West of Tillamook Rock, and should then keep seaward of
the line joining the light oa the rock and that on Cape Disappointment.

COLUMBIA RIVEB.

This river is by far the most considerable of any that enter the sea on this
side of the Pacific. The river, with its valley, is the most interesting and im-
portant part of Oregon, not only on account of the variety of soil, productions,
and climate, but also from its being a valuable line of communication between
the sea-coast and the interior, now supplemented by the construction of the
Northern Pacific and other railways.

Columbia River rises in British Columbia on the western slope of the Rocky
Mo'mtains, near lat. 50° N., long. 116° W.,and enters the ocean after a course
North Pacifio. 2 (j

■• ' ... -"."^ t«-J

_ 'J I « ■ ! I m mmtimm^'i^^mmmmmm!*''^

vfi

m: H

I
>

208

HIE COAST OF OREGON, ETC.

of about 1,400 miles. Its navigation is intnrrupted by several rapids, which
divide it into four sections. From its mouth to Vancouver, a distance of 114
miles, it is navigable for vessels which can cross the bar ; during its lowest
stages vessels not drawing over 12 ft. water can ascend about 45 miles farther,
to the Casc^Jes. The tides rise and fall above Vancouver, but they cause no
change of current beyond Oak Point ; during the freshets the Columbia rises
at Vancouver 19 ft. above the low- water mark.

The valley of the Columbia, as high as the Cascades, is divided into high and
low prairies ; the latter are not suitable for cultivation, on account of being
overflown by the annual freshets, but they are admirably adapted for grazing-
lands. The soil of the upper or higher prairie is light and gravelly ; it is well
covered with pines, arbutus, oaks, ash, and maples; and the hills which border
it are generally volcanic.

For Sailing Vessels, without the aid of a steam-tug, the entrance to the
Columbia is impracticable for two-thirds of the year. It could not be safely
entered at night, and in the day only at particular times of the tide and direc-
tion of the wind. Unlike all known porta, it wjuld require both the tide and
wind to be controry to ensure any degree of safety.

Before the introduction of steam, veH«els frequently had to lie for several
weeks in Baker Bay, inside the entrance, during the winter, for fine weather
to get out, for which a fair wind and smooth water are indispensable. The
difficulties of ingress were also greater, inasmiich as a vessel in the open ocean
could not watch her opportunity so conveniently as when at anehjr in Baker
Bay ; and the hazard would be still greater were it not that the openness of the
coasts, and the prevalent gales, lessen the hazard of a lee-shore.

One feature which renders it still more difficult for a sailing vessel to cross
the bar is, that a good and commsnrling breeze within or without the mouth
often falls to a calm when the breakers are reached. The shifting of the shoals
forming the bars and entrances, which they do apparently very considerably
at short intervals, increases the difficulty, from the impossibility of having
any established marks for the guidance of the commander, which will be good
for a lengthened period.

In addition to this, the cross-tides, and their great velocity, increase the
difficulties. The heavy swell of the Pacific, and the influence of an under
current, add their embarrassments, and pM these become greater from the
distance of the leading marks of the channel, and their indistinctness when the
weather will permit entrance. It is necessary to use them, because the com-
pass bearings are of little or no use. The land near it is well marked, and this
is some little advantage.

" But these obstructions, in proportion as they lessen the value of the river,
enhanced at the same time the merit of the man who first surmounted them —
a merit which cannot be denied to the judgment, perseverance, and courage
of Capt. Gray, of Boston. Whether or not Capt. Gray's achievement ia

COLUMBIA RIVER.

'ntltlcd to rank as a discovery, the question is one wliich a bnro sense of
justice, without regard to political consequences, requires to be decided by
facts alone. First, in 1775, lleceta, a Spuniiird, discovered (lie opening
between Cape Disappointment on the North, and Point Adams on the South,
— a discovery the more worthy of notice, inasmuch as such an opening can
hardly be obser^'cd excepting when approached from the westward; and being
induced, partly by the appearance of the land, and partly by native traditions
as to a great river of the West, he filled the gap by a guess with his Kio do
San Roque. Secondly, in 1788, Mearcs, an Knglishmau, sailing under Por-
tuguese colouru, approached the opening in question into 7 fathoms water, but
pronounced t!. • Kio de San Iloquo to be a fable, being neither able to enter it
nor discover any symptoms of its existence. Thirdly, Gray, though after on
effort of nine days he failed to eflect an entrance, was yet convinced of the
existence of a great river by the colour and current of the water. Fourthly,
in April, 1792, Vancouver, while he fell short of Gray's conviction, then
unknown to him, correctly decided that the river, if it cxi.sted, was a very
intricate one, and not a safe navigable harbour for ves-sels of tho burden of
his ship. Fifthly, iu May, 1792, Gray, returning expressly to complete his
discovery of the previous year, entered the river, finding the channel very
narrow, and n •>t navigable nore than 15 miles upwards, even for his Columbia,
of 220 tons. According to this summary statement of incontrovertible facts,
the inquiry resolves itself into three points — the discovery of the oj)eniiig by
Heccta, the discovery of the river by Gray on his first visit, and the discovery
of a practicable entrance by the same individual revisiting the sjot for the
avowed purpose of confirming and maintaining his previous belief. Oiuy thus
discovered ont point in a country, which, as a whole, other nations had dis-
covered, DO that the pretensions of America had been already forestalled by
Spain and F.ngland." — Sir George Simpson.

The entrance of the river is now, however, rendered as safe as that of most
other barred harbours, by the establishment of powerful steam-tugs, and a pilot
station. On account of the shifting channels, wo vessel should cross the bar
without a pilot on board. No vessel drawing over 20^ ft. should attempt to
cross the bar, except between May 1st and October Ist, when it is generally
smooth. In bad weather the sea breaks across the entrance from shore to
shore.

Vessels drawing 24 ft. have safely crossed the bar at high tide in calm
weather, but a vessel should not draw much over 20 ft. if she wishes to avoid
possible loss of time In waiting for a smooth bar. It is proposed to improve
the entrance by carrying out a jetty from Adams I'oiut, over Clatsop
Spit.

An entrance should not be attempted without a tug, if the entrance is not
well defined by breakers. The best time for a sailing vessel to enter and
depart is after ebb and before quarter-fl©od, as the tide then runs direct

'•■ ' ■ t

^^■'

1'.-' 4 .'fi^Vw

SBOM

""■""■Hnm

*00

THE COAST . .■ OKECOX. ETC.

i' I

l!:| f.

through the <.......iirl?. ar.iJ a go:'d h'-oeyc ij noiM^s«-ar_v . In foppy viealhcr

attention 6.bouid be paid to the lead, and the land should be made South of
the bar.

PiloU. — The pilot station is at Astoria, and vessels arriring off the bar are
telegraphed from the lighthouse on Cape I'tisappointnjvnt to the FtAtion, when
a pilot i» sent out Tith a steam-tug. The bar pilot will conduct the voBsel as
far &% A.'tona or Tongue Point, when % rirer-pilot must, be taken on board, if
ascending to Portland, kc.

We new proeeed to gire a general description of the rircr, but directii^ns
for entering it would be worse than useless owing to their inevitable uncertainly.
The shipmaste;, tberefr.re. who wcuid enter unassisted by a proper pilot, must
be quite prej)ared to exhaust all a seaman's energies in the formidable under-
taking. And he will the more readily comprehend the necessity of this, ■when
it is sa;d that, previouslv to the estabushment of the pilot service, nearly every
vessel whose Msi", is recorded gives an account of her grounding on some part
of the passage ; and the Prticock. one of the United States' Exploring Expedi-
tion, was txMAlly lost on the terrible bar.

The first complete survey that w.as made of the river was that by ?ir Edward
Belcher, in H.M.S. Sulphur, in 1&39. which showed some remarkable changes
from the charts of 1792. Tlie northern channel up to Caj<t^ Disfippointnient
was then the only known good entrance. The U.S. Exploring Expedition, in
1841. also examined it. and found but one channel, hut that was little changed,
The next advance in its hydrographv was the discovery of the So-Jth channel,
in January or February. 186v>. by Capt. White, who found not loss than
4 fathoms on the bar. In 1851 the V.S, Coast Survey officers under Lieut.
W. r, M'Arthur, completed a preliminary survey of the outer entrance, and
m 1869 a survey was m.ide by Wr. E. Cordell. V S. Coast Survey, which
showed that the North channel had very much altered and wk? unsafe, ixcept
for small vessels. To these and later authoritie?. mcluding the examination
by Lieut. Price, in 1882, and to the directions drawn up bv Mr. George
Davidson, combined with our former observations, we owe the following
reuiaiks ; —

POIlfT ADAMS, the South point of the estrance.is low and sandy, covered
with bushes and trees to the line of sand beach and low dune* : and although
it is reported to have w.ished away over half a mile since 1841. the surveyors
found compar.itively sma',1 charges since the survey of Broughton in 1792. On
the eastern side of the point is Fort Sfermf.

The LIGHTHOUSE on Point Ad.amf is a square tower, rising from the
keeper's dwelling. 49 ft. high, and painted n light buff colour. It stands i>n a
low ridge on the western side of the point, and shows a _^jW rrd light, elevated
P9 ft ■ and visible 15 mile*.

Ihc beech around Point Adam», and to the south w.ird some distance, is

usually called Clainop Beach * On Point Adaras some missionaries trcrc csta-
blip'ned in 1S41. near the Indian tillage. Capt. Wilkes risit^d ihew pioneers
in the wildeiTiess. In xralking on the sand-hills, and about Point Adams, he
MTJ that ho had never in all his life seen so vriany snakes as vrere on the beach,
where t.hej vere fivparrnllv ff-edi.ng at levr tratcr.

CAPE DISAPPOIXTMEXT.-I-The North side of the Columbia Rirer
forms part of Washington Territorv ; it >ras the southern boundarv of the
•' Xevf Gocrgia." of Vancoure.r, 1792.

This cape is the only heaulatid fio.Vi Tillamook to 1st.. 4T' 20 that breaks
the low line of shore. It preseat< a gCvViogioal formation not !.>efure met with
on the sea-bo.^rd. being compose^i of h or iiontAl oolumaar basalt, rising to an
deration of iS7 ft... disposed in a succession of huge round bills, broken on
the sea front by short strips of sand beaeh. and covering an irregular area of
about S miles by one. Inland of their crests the trees commerce, and their
tops reaching above the summits of the hills increase their apparent height.
The inshore sloi>e of the hills is nioie gentle, so th.-.1 psths can be easily
earned to their tops.

As seen from the southward. wh,en off Tillamook Head. Cape Disappcntment
is made as two round-topped island.*. Apprcaeheii from the N.W.. it rises in
a similar manner: from the West and S.W. it appears projected upon the
mountains, hut the slightest hazir.o.!* in the atmosphere brings it out in sharp
rchef. A h/rhr-ai is stationed just within the cape.

The LIGHTHOUSE is not upon the top of the cape, but upon a spur a little
to the West of the S.E. pov.nt. knoMu as ii\?iiceci Feint, and shout 95 ft. below
the highest part. The tower ij whitewashed, plsred IP^ ft. above the kvd
of the sea. and being 40 ft. in height, and projected against s dark green back-
ground, shows well by day. The light is f,.s-iii hnpht. elevated 232 fl. above
the sea, and visible about 22 miles. The Ff'f Bri!. formerly sounded here,
was disccntinued in September, iSSl. Th'.' lighthouse is in lat. 46"' 16 32' X.,
long, 124'' 3 IV W.

Dm-iug the early part of the evering dense fogs, formed over the waters of
Gray and Shoalwater Bays, are brought southward by the summer winds, and
roll ever Cape Disappointment, which they ccmpletel}' shut in before roiicViiig
across the river, so that a vessel might make the light en I\iint Adams, when

• rpon Clat*ej:> Bench, before the white* oec'.ijiied th? ciMintry, a Chinrw er .Tapanwie
,!rnk, wjf.h raanv hands, ard a carg-o of "t>f«ririix. wm oast a»heri\ and went to pi<"C«R. but
iVe (Tf» ■Kprf saTfKJ. In sv-pport of thif In.ijar, tradition, cvca^.onsiiT, afior cteat slorn-.s,
piecM of thif wax are t.hrcwn ashvire coaled wi'.b sard, an.; Wi'ar.bed npaT.v whit.*. For-
ni«>rlT ,1 great dfiai wm found, h\\\ ridw it it rarely mrt wilfc.

t Thii" v-ape "ai" seen br I> HpKVta, m Anffiisl* i7".^. and "(fair hx 0*pt, Mwires, in
ilii'.T. ITSS. wh^n he fal.l<<d it Capf /'..Mfpc^ntrnfyit. by which r.ame ii i? sviii kr.own. In
JiT?2. Gray, thf roal ducoverer of the tiver, called it Oi/w Sanccrk arteiw»rd, but reiin«
qiiished thit term. It it flill, hcwc\tr, applied tc it m forcn woilis T:» Icdiar. name u
i^.ivh-ei't.*!

^._. —

^R^e^*^5i«WiWB»"

i '

ioi

rUK COAST OP OUKOON, KTO.

thnt r)Ti the oilier cjipc wiih iiiviHibli- ; but by Hccinjr botli lij^litH a \ohhv] could
liold any n(|uin'(l jiositioii at nij^lit near citlici bur, and niii in and lake a jiilot
upon till' (irsl ()|)|iiiitiiiiity ; for il would be UHMUiuiii|j too grunt u rink to enter
liic river at iii^ht without a jjiiot.

Wlii'ii tlic evening fu^H, from the nortlicrn bnyH, do not cover the cnpo, n doniio
fog in Hoini'tiincH exjurricnced rolling down the river about Bunrinc, enveloping
everything below the top of the caj)e. The evening fogH are, liowcver, very
regular.

The Entrance to ('oluinbia lUver ih 5 inileH wide between the nearest parts
of Cape l)iMUpi)ointnient and I'oiiit Adams, hei-ring N.W. by W. J VV. and
U.K. hy K. i K. from each otluT ; hut the pa.swige i« greatly ohHtntc^tcd Ijy
extensive Hhifting »hoalH, which extend in a curve, between the two poititH,
and nearly 4 niiieH weuward of the line joining the jioiiitH. Tlu; numeroim
surveys that liave been made of thin river prove «o coneluHiveiy the great
changes whicdi the channi^Is through llie nhoals undergo, that the KubNe([(ient
remarks o7i the North and South ehaiineiH must be used with gr«'ttt caution.
'J'he best advi(;c W(' can offer is, when uji wilii the bar, vutil Jor a j'hil. The
buoys, hereafter dcHcrib(;d, and tlic range beacons for leading in, erected at
the I'last end of Sand Island, are sbiflcd to eorresjiond with the changes.

The mail and (;oaHting steaineiH used to enter the South channel |)arallel
find close to the iu-ach South of J'oint Adams; but with a heavy swell from
the westward they roll very muidi after roinuliiig the point. In heavy wejither
dome of them j)referred entering tlie North ehimncl, althougli it gives u detour
of some miles. In l''ebruary, IHS.t, it was announced that the. North channel
had been gradually shoaling to a depth of IT feet.

Sailing vessels cannot beat into the South ehnniiel against the HumTner winds
blowing from tbi; N.W., b«it almost invariably come out through it. The
licavily laden vcttHcls of the Iludsou'it Ihiy ('oinj)uny imvc always ui^ed the
North channtd.

During heavy weather, and especially in winter, the sea l)reak« with terrific
fury from N.W. of Cape I>ihap]ioinlment well to the southward of Point
Adams, and the mail steamer was once trying for (i() hours to find the smallest
idiow of an o])ening to get in. Sailing vessels have laid off the entrance six
weeks, waiting for a fair ojiportunity to enter, and many have laid inside for
weeks trying to get (nit. 'J'he mail utenmer meanwhile, exerting all hi'r power,
would drive through the combers, having her deck swejit fore and aft by every
Bpa. Few places present a scene of more wildness than this bar during a S.I'/.
gale, contraMting strongly with many times during the summer, when not a
breaker In neen to mark the outline of the shoalest spot. In bud weather the
pilot boats cannot ventnn; out, but a steamer might ; and the mail MteumerM, to
avoid delay, now regidariy carry a bur pilot with them.*

hrinj

use i

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in tli<!

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504

THE COAST OP ORKGON, ETC.

I :

Toint Adams lighthouse bears E. by N. J N., you should be up with the
whistling buoy ; from it steer N.N.E., which carries you past the inner bar
buoy, also Nos. 1 and 3 on the Middle Sands, leaving the black buoys on the
port hand. After passing No. 3, change course to N. by E., leaving the red
buoy No. 2, Clatsop Spit, on the starboard hand ; then McKenzie Head just
shut in with Hancock Point, astern, leads to the black buoy otf Adams Point.
The entrance buoys are stated to be invariably out of position. The buoys, from
the bar buoy No. 2, are placed as nearly in line as possible and nearly in the
narrow channel.

The North Channel, as before stated, is now not available for large vessels.
It would be useless to attempt to give directions for using it, as the constant
changes would speedily render them untrustworthy.

The outer black and ivhite striped buoy, off the entrance to the North
channel, is moored in about 10 fathoms, with Cape Disappointment lighthouse
bearing N.E. I E., distant 3J miles, and the whistle buoy S.K. by S., 3| miles.
At a little over a mile to N.E. a similar buoy is moored on the bar in 3J
fathoms, and on a line E. by S. from this, within a distance of about 2 miles,
were three other buoys, the first black and white striped, the second red, and
the third black, the latter being situated at the junction of the North channel
with the main channel of the river. At 3^ cables N.E. of the red buoy a black
buoy was moored off the South end of the flat extending nearly IJ mile south-
ward of Cape Disappointment lighthouse. At half a mile to N.E. by N. of
the latter buoy was another black buoy, on the West side of the channel leading
to Baker Bay.

BAKER BAY, to the eastward of Cape Disappointment, was so named
by Broughton. There is good anchorage in it under the cape, to the E.N.E.
of which four buoys were moored, marking thi. deeper water of 4 to 6 fathoms,
and the northern entrance of the channel between Sand Island and Chinook
Spit, having 2^ to 2f fathoms water in it, leading to the main channel of the
river; a black and white buoy is moored at the eastern entrance of this channel.
Baker Bay runs 2^ mili\s northward of the cape, and into its head run
some small streams, coming from the direction of Shoalwater Bay, with which
they are connected by i small portage. A survey, made in 1881, demonstrated
the practicability of constructing a canal between these bays, for vessels of
light draught. Two or three houses and a saw-mill, a mile northward of the
cape, are all that remains of the settlement designated as " Pacific City." The
greater part of the bay is occupied by shoal water, Sand Island and Chinook
S^it lying on its S.E. side.

Kanges cannot be given for the channel from Baker Bay to Sand Island,
owing to the constant changes and the influence the current exerts at different
stages of the tide. The cross tides in the North Channel, and the baffling
wind near Cape bluff, make this channel very difiicult for sailing vessels. The
prevailing wind is N.W. by W., and in the narrowest part of the channel
vessels must generally beat in a cross tide.

Br..*;;*

COLUMBIA RIVER— CLATSOP CHANNEL. 305

Chinook Pomf, the eastern limit of Baker Bay, is N.N.E. 3 miles from the
fort on Point Adams, and 4f miles E. J N. from Cape Disappointment. It is
n low strip of sand at the base of high wooded hills, one of which, eallcd
Scarborough Hill, is remarkable for a great part of its southern slope being
bare of trees. There is no good anchorage near this point, as a heavy sea
sometimes sets in on it over the bar.

There are many fishing and Indian huts on Chinook Beach, occupied by
salmon fishers. The fish commence running up about the end of May, and are
remarkably plentiful by the end of June.

Point Elli-i, or Ellice, is 1 J mile E. by N. of Chinook Point. Behind it rise
two peaked hills, one of which is (or was) used with Point Adams, as a
leading mark for the southern bar. At 5 miles N.E. of Ellice Point is
Portucjxiese, Broiujhton, or Gray Point, on the western side of Gray Bay, into
which falls the Alamicut River.

Sand Island, before alluded to, is a dry spot on the eastern extension of the
Middle Bank. This bank is formed by the trees and timber which have floated
down the river, and which bceomo lodged here, forming a nucleus, around
which the debris brought down by the stream increases. The island is about
1 J mile long E.S.E. and AV.N.W., curving to the south-westward of this line,
and from half u cable to 2J^ cables in width. On its southern side are two
beacons, used as marks for the South channel over the bar.

Clatsop Channel, which passes in an easterly direction around Point Adams
and Ciat-so]) Beach, is about two-thirds of a mile wide between Sand Island
and Clatsop Spit, which stretches off for 2j miles W.N.W. of Point Adams,
lining at its outer edge not more than 7^ ft. water, oQ' which a rod buoy is
moored. The channel is from 6 to 12 fathoms deep at the bend.

Clatsop Channel further up is bounded on the North side by the Middle
Ground off Young Bay. The West end of this Middle Ground is marked by a
black hiioy, lying in about 4 fathoms, with the fort on Point Adams bearing
S. i E., distant three-quarters of a mile.

The southern side of this bank is marked by throe more hlack buoys, tho
tliird marking the Niirth side of the channel abreast Astoria. The tide sets
fairly through the channel from Astoria to Sand Island.

At about 4 J miles I'last of tlie fort on Point Adams is Point George, Youny,
or Smith, forming the East limit of Young Bay. It is. the first point made
after passing eastward of Clatsop ISeach ; immediately behind it the laud is
liigh and densely wooded. The entrance of Young River, so named by Van-
couver after Sir George Young, lies to the southward of the point. From its
banks a low meadow, interspersed with scattered trees and slirubs, extends to
the more elevated land. From a sort of bar across its entrance it is not easily
inivigable, though the depth is above 2,} fathoms. Lewis aiul Clark Rivers,
and several other small streams, also empty themselves into Young Bay.
Xorth Pacific, 2 R

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THE COAST OF OREGON, ETC.

Astor Point lies E. J N., 5J milns from Point Adams. It is low at the
river bank ; the southern channel passes close to it. The United States Coast
Survey Station, about one quarter of a mile westward of the bay, is in lat,
46° 11' 27.G" N., long. 123° 50' 5" W.

ASTORIA, which lies to the eastward of Point George, on the southern
shore of the river, has been much celebrated ; but its early fame depends
mainly upon its historian, that delightful writer, Washington Irving, who has
told all the world of its former progress and fortunes. Its original appellutiou
was superseded for that ot Fort George, when it was taken possession of by the
British.* The peninsula upon which Astoria stands forms a bay -.vith Young
lliver, where the intrepid travellers, Lewis and Clark, wintered.

Of late years Astoria has risen into prominence by the development of the
wheat and timber export trade, and as the head-quarters of the salmon-
paeking industry ; the total pack of Columbia Eiver salmon, in 1883, amount-
ing to about 650,000 cases of 48 lbs. each, or nearly two-thirds of the whole
pack of the North Pacific coast. The greater number of the canneries are in
the town itself, and these, with the saw-mills, give employment to the greater
part of the inhabitants, who number about 7,000. British vessels carry on
the greater part of the trade ; the imports consist principally of tin-plates
and coal. Vessels drawing 22 ft. can load alongside. There is good
anchorage in 6 fathoms, 2 cables off the wharves, with the town bearing South.

Mr. Cherry, the consular agent, in 1884, stated that eflbrts are being made
to connect the port with the interior by a railway, which would pass through
a country known to possess coal-beds of considerable extent, to the fertile
Willamette valley. It also offers good sites for dry docks, &e.

Astoria is very beautifully situated. It is 10 miles from Cape Disappoint-
ment in a direct line, and from it there is a fine view of that high promontory
and the ocean bounding it on the West ; the Chinook Hills and Point Ellice,
with its rugged peak, on the North ; Tongue Point and Katalamet Eange
on the East ; and a high background, bristling with lofty pines, to the South.
The ground rises from the river gradually to the top of a ridge, 500 ft. in
elevation. A government military road leads to Salem, Sac, on the Willamette,
and at Upper Astoria, a village three-quarters of a mile to the eastward, is a
landing-pier.

At 2i miles N.E. ^ N. of Upper Astoria, and 3J miles S.S.E. of Portuguese
Point, is a remarkable projection from the southern shore, called Tongue Point,

* In 1809 Mr, John Jacob Astor, a German, who had emigrated from his native country
in 1783, engaged in the fur trade, and in that year obtained u charter from the Now York
legislature for organizing a Pacilic Fur Company, all the capital of which belongud to him-
self. His plan was to establish posts on the coast of the Pacific, on the Columbia, &c., &o.
For the execution of this project, two expeditions wore sent out, one by seu and one by
land. In September, 1810, the ship 'Tonguin loft New York, and in March, 1811, founded
the Doat of Astoria.

COLUMBIA RIVER— TIDES.

307

forming a penin^'ula ; and to the North of this point is a channel, which Capt.
Belcher designated the Tongue Channel. This leads over to the northern
shore, and then turns to the eastward on the northern side. Woody Island
Channel trends away north-eastward of the point.

Tongue Point is considered to he the best position for a fortification to
defend the channel up the river. It is a high bluff trap rock, covered with
trees of large dimensions. There is a small portage on Tongue Point, which
canoes often use in bad weather, to avoid accidents that might occur in the
rough seas in the channel that passes round it.

The space, whose shores are thus imperfectly described, is from 3 to 7 miles
wide, and very intricate to navigate, on account of the shoals which nearly
occupy its whole extent. These shift very TTiaterially, and that, too, in very
short periods of time, so that no established directions can here be given.

Tides. — It is high water at Astoria, on full and change, at 12'' 42"" ; springs
rise 1^ ft., neaps 4 J ft. At Cape Disappointment it is high water at 12'' 20"".
'J"he tides in this river are subject to a large diurnal inequality, which may
either accelerate or retard the time of high water, sometimes as much as 1 to
1^ hour, and increase or diminish the rise by 2 or 3 feet.

Off Sandy Island, in the South channel, the strength of the ebb current was
measured in 1851, and found to be nearly 5 J miles per hour. The observa-
tions of the Coast Survey in 1868, however, show a maximum velocity of only
3'4 miles in the same position. TTiese observations were carefully made, and
show the direction and velocity of the current during each quarter of the ebb
and flood, from the bar to Astoria.

These observations show, first, that there is no slack water at the change of
tides from flood to ebb ; secondly, that off the entrance to the North channel
the maximum velocity of the flood is 2 miles per hour, and the set E.S.E. ; the
maximum velocity of the ebb is 2 3 miles, and the set S.W. by S. J S., almost
exactly in the direction of the axis of the channel. In the North channel,
between the Middle Sands and the S.W. point of the North breakers, the
velocity of the flood was 2-5 miles, and its set E. by S., or nearly across the
channel. The velocity of the ebb was 2-7 miles, and its set S.W. ^ W.,
directly down the channel. Off Cape Disappointment, between it and Sulphur
Spit (where Belcher grounded), the under-current of the flood set N. by E. ;
and the surface ebb set S.W. ^ S. with a velocity of 31 miles. About a mile
to the eastward, however, with Cape Disappointment lighthouse bearing
W.S.W., the velocity of the ebb increases to 4-4 miles per hour, setting
W. by S., exactly toward Cape Disappointment. There is here very little
flood current. At the junction of the North and South channels, 1 mile East
of Sand Island, the flood was E. by S. i S., li mile per hour; and the ebb,
W. i N., 4 miles per hour.

Off the South channel entrance, li mile S.E. of the South end of he
Middle Sands, the ebb attains a velocity of 2 miles per hour, with a set at its

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308

THE COAST OF OEEGON, ETC.

maximum, S. J W. The flood sots E.S.E., when it attains its greatest velocity,
■vvliich is 1-3 mile. OflF the N.W. end of Clatsop Spit, the flood, at its
maximum, sets E. by N. i N., at the rate of 1-4 mile ; and the ebb S.W. i W.,
3 miles per hour. In mid-channel, S.E. of the eastern end of Sand Island,
the ebb attains a velocity of 3-4 miles, and sets W. by S. ; while the flood at
its maximum sets E. i N., with a velocity of 1-9 mile. This is very nearly
the same position where, in 1851, the velocity was found to be nearly 5i} miles.
The COLUMBIA RIVER, above the broader portion of its course, may be
briefly described. At night liffhls are shown at various places on the banks,
for the pilots' use. From Tongue Point it continues towards the N.E., the
southern side consisting of low and marshy islands ; but, after advancing about
10 miles, the land becomes high and rocky on both sides, the river turning
from a N.E. to an E.S.E. direction, at Katalamet or Cathlamet Point.

At about 3J miles above this point is the western point of Puyet Island,
well wooded, and about 3J miles in length, dividing the stream into two
branches, and affording a passage on either of it. It continues in the same
direction about 5 miles farther, when it takes a turn to the N.E. for about 3
miles to Oak Point on the South shore, where the river turns nearly at right
angles, taking its course along a barrier of trap rocks on the West side, and
which rises 800 ft. perpendicularly above its surface. On the opposite side of
tlie river is one of the remarkable prairies of the country, covered with tall
waving grass, and studded with many oaks, from which the point takes its
name. What adds additional interest and beauty to the scene is Mount
St. Helen's, about 40 miles off in the eastern quarter.

From Oak Point to Walker Island the distance is about 4 miles ; it is small
and wooded, and was named by Vancouver after his surgeon. At 4 miles
above Walker Island is the mouth of Cowlitz Eiver, entering the Columbia on
the North shore, with the town of Monticello a short distance up it.

Cowlitz River. — From Cape Disappointment to the mouth of Cowlitz Eiver
the bearing and distance are E. J N., 48 miles, in a straight line ; but along
the course of the river the distance is considerably more. The Cowlitz runs
N.N.W. for 24 miles; thence N.H to its head-waters in the Cascades. It is
navigated by canoes about 28 miles to the ('owlitz landing, where, before the
construction of the railway, travellers took mules or horses through to Puget's
Sound, a trip of 52 miles. Small steamers can ascend the river nearly
40 miles.

Mount Coffin, a conical hill on the North shore, 2^ miles westward of the
mouth of the Cowlitz, is 240 ft. high, and is so named from having been the
burying-place of the Indians. On the opposite side of the river is a high
barrier of trap rocks covered with majestic pines. Coffin Rock, about 7 miles
above Mount Coffin, is of small dimensions, and has been the burial-place of
chiefs, who are usually interred in canoes, which are provided with all the
necesf'vv appendages to the land of spirits and their hunting grounds.

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COLUMRIA IIIVER— PORTLAND.

SOO

Opposite the entrance of Cowlitz River is the town or village of Rainier. At
4 miles beyond the Cowlitz, and on the North bank of the river, is Kulama,
the terminus of the railway from Olympia, on Puget Sound, Tacoma, Seattle,
&c., and from hence steamers ply to I'ortlund.

From the mouth of the Cowlitz, the Columbia runs about 15 miles S.E. by S.
to Warrior Point, where the river separates into two branches, that to the
westward, called the Warrior Branch, forming with tho Columbia, the large
Island of Mullonomah, or Wappatoo, connected with Willamette River.

Willamette River. — The entrance of Willamette River is about 26 miles
S.E. by S. from the Cowlitz. The Willamette continues the same genera^
course of the Columbia for IG miles to the falls, where is situated the town of
Oreyon City, having about 2,000 inhabitants, destined to become a place of
importance, on account of the extensive water-power, the river falling there
perpendicularly 38 to 40 ft. There is a system of locks here, to enable vessels
to reach the upper part of the river. The fertile valley of the Willamette,
through which railways pass to the southward, is well settled, and contains
several thriving towns. On the lower part of the Colunjbia and Willamette
many saw-mills have been erected, and a large trade is carried on in
lumber.

PORTLAND. — At 6 miles below Oregon City, is the rapidly-improving city
of Portland, situated at the head of ship navigation, and 98 miles by the iver
from Astoria. In 1880 its population amounted to 20,814, and according to a
careful estimate made at the close of 1883, it had increased to about 40,000.
In 1883 the Northern Pacific Railway was completed, thus connecting Port-
land with the eastern States, and the Oregon and California Railway was
expected to join up, at the end of 1884, with the line coming northward from
Sacramento, thus giving direct railway communication with San Francisco,
See. Another line will connect with the line going northward from Kalama
to Puget Sound. At present there is regular communication by steamer with
San Francisco, British Columbia, Puget Sound, Alaska, &c., and a large fleet
of stern-wheel steamers ply on the Columbia and Willamette Rivers. On the
latter river the steamers ascend as far as Eugene City, 138 miles above Port-
land, when the water is high, and to Salem, the capital of the State, 61 miles
from Portland, all the year round.

A dry dock is being constructed at Portland by the Oregon Railway Com-
pany ; it will be 400 ft. long, with an entrance 72 ft. wide, having 18 ft. water
over the sill at the lowest tides New wharfs are also being constructed at
Albina, on the East side of the river, opposite Portland.

A large export trade is carried on at Portland in wheat, flour, wool, hides,
lumber, &c. The total value of the exports from Porthmd and Astoria, in
1883, exclusive of the coasting trade, amounted to £1,328,903, of which Great
Britain took £1,227,717. In 1883, bl vessels, with a total tonnage of

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THE COAST OP OREGON, ETC.

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79,673, entered the Columbia from foreign ports, of which 74, with a tonnage
of 72,696, were British.

Between Portland and the entrnncc of Willamette Eirer, the rivjr is
obstructed by four bars, through which channels are being dredged to a depth
of 20 ft. In June, 1883, a least depth of 17 to 18 ft. at low water had been
attained. Mr. Laidlaw, Vice-Consul, states that the completion of these im-
provements will do away with the expensive lighterage now necessary at low
stage of water in the river (October to December). There are two red leadin</
lights at the entrance, near the town of St. Helen,

At 5 miles above the Willamette, and on the North bank of Columbia Eiver,
is the town and fort of Vancouver, formerly a settlement of the Hudson's Bay
Company. At 45 miles above this the foot of the Cascades is reached. The
Cascades are a series of rapids, 4 miles long, where the river bursts through
the eastern part of the Cascade Mountains, the basaltic walls of which rise
precipitously over 3,000 ft. on either side, presenting a magnificent sight. At
present steamers ply between Portland and the foot of the rapids, whence
passengers arc conveyed by a tramway to the head, where steamers are ready
to convey them to the Dalies, a distance of 50 miles ; here the river becomes
contracted between narrow perpendicular walls, and rises 100 ft. above its
ordinary level during freshets. From Dalles a railway runs 14 miles to Celilo,
when the river again becomes navigable for 185 miles to Priest's Rapids.
Above this it is navigable for about 250 miles from Fort Colville.* The
railway now passes along the southern side of the river.

" A canal and locks are being constructed around the Cascades. The object
is to improve the river at the minor rapids and give lockage around the*
principal rapids of the Cascades, for stages of 20 ft. of water at the foot of the
canal, for about one-half of the year, which iL>cludes the busy boating season.
The plan is arranged for any extension for higher stages of the river. The
canal will be about 3,000 ft. long. The low-water lock will have a lift of
about 24 ft., and the lock capacity will be 90 by 462 ft., with a least draught
ofSft."— 1/r. Vice-Consul Laidlaw, 1884.

The snow peaks of the volcanic Mount St. Helen's and Mount Hood lie
exactly in line with the Cascades, the former N.W. \ N., 35 miles distant ; the
latter S.E. i S., 28 miles distant. Mount Hood is an extinct volcano, 11,225 ft.
high, covered with cellidar lava.

• Much information concerning the upper part of Columbia River will be found in a
" Report of an Examination of the Upper Columbia River, and the Territory in its
Vicinity," by Lieut. Thomas W. Symons, U.S. Army, published at Waahingtou, 1883.
The volume is illustrated with numerous maps.

( Sll V

WASHIUGTON TEaRlTOKY.

Columbia River divides Oregon f
between the parallels of 46" a^nd 40^1'^''^'' ''^"'^°^3'. which extends

75.120; ,„ 1870 it was 23,955. I ",-^^^ P°P"'«'ion in 1880 was
PO'ted. and the canning of salmon ^T''''' °^ *'™^- "« out and!
-ied on. Coal i. ,;.mfd in :^Z:''^ ''' ^"'^^ «^°""^. '^ . y'
ducuon ,n ,88. was over .00.000 rTrat"''"' ''''''''-' '''' '^'^^ P™-
ol Washington Territory which liesK . ''°"'°" °^ '^'' ^««tern section

>s watered h, several strlms^om::;:;;;- i^/ ^"^""^^^^ -^ ^^%- So^

the V 1 " "'° '" ^"'''fi^ «n the w!st 13 T."'" ''' ^"^"'"^- - the
h Wh. These all rise in the spurs olheP? "*'' ''"°"^* ^-"'^ -
pa of the country. The land between h/p.' '^""^•^' ""'^ '^''^i" this
or C^^keeles Kiver is an extensive ^iL iT' "^^ ^^^ ^^^^-'i^. Chica;

ihe country f.om the seaboard to thlrT "' '''' '^'^'"'"^^ ^''-"-
W of spruce, pine, and hemlo k T^ ^ "' " ""^'^^^'^ -"h a dense
earth, with a substratum of clar Th. 7 " " '^"^''^ ^ ^laclc vegetlb e
Chehalis Kiver are fertile, a d of oT ""' '"""^' ''''' bordentg the
-d. would yield good crops of wheat I""' '''''''' ^'^ ^^ite ^a^
l^anng an abundance of J ,.,eer '"^ ' f \«r« -cellent sites for farm
>«umcation. '*'^^' '^^ but a short distance from water com

~:r;:t::S:r^ -^^^^^ ^-d presents an inviting
t-es of the species spoken of ab 7 ^ ";"'^"''^'-»' -'^ covered with
brown stratun. of sandy vegetable earth t. "1 °' '''^ '°''^^^-^-^ i« " tl n
;"- baving the appearanct of bei" ';f ' ^"'^°^' ^' ^''^>- -^ gravel : C
t'- tract of prairie lands in the vIT V f^"'"' '^^^''' '^'^ succeeded bv
'-"- J-cls for flocks of sh el d^ "' ^'^^"""^' ^^-b are valuable s
^'•^tens.ve range in a S.E. direcUon ^d 7 ""^- • '''^^^ ^^^'^ ^-'e a ve;
-tbe South towards the Cascade' Aw""* '^"' ^'^ "''"^^ °^^^^ Cowl !
^»b.n this district are numerous ponds ! ,"1: "'""''' '^ ^^"^^ «^^ ^^-t
'"";'' f"'n-hing luxuriant crops of n I '' ''^''"""'^^'^ "^y "eh meadow

«''ieh jut in all d,V« . ' 'P'"''^' ''"d arbor vitaj Th 7 T ''

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WASniNOTON TERRITOUY.

mutit, tlu'icforc, be considered an extremely dangerous, particularly on account
of the off-lying rocks in the northern part. Safety, hawcvcr, can always bo
insured by not approaching the laud into less than 70 fathoms.

SHOALWATER BAY.— The bold clitfs of Cape Disappointment, oftcr ex-
tending about 3 miles northward, change suddenly to a low, broad, sandy
licttch, running N. by W. J W., 18 milis, in nearly a straight line to tho
southern point of the entran e to Shoahvater Hay. At li mile behind tliin
•l)each lies tiie soutliern arm of the bay. Its waters reach within a mile or
two of the North side of the cape, and the portage from tlicuco to tho Wap-
])alooche emptying into Baker Hay, is said to be about a mile long, and always
used by the Indians and settlers. The peninsula thus formed is covered with
trees and a dense undergrowth of bushes. Within half a mile of its extremity
it becomes very low ond sandy, and has a covering of coarse grass, but no
trees. This point was called Zow Point by Meares, in July, 1788. On the
recent Coast Survey charts it is named Leadbctter Point. The Indian desig-
iiiitiou is Chik-lis-ilk.

CAPE SHOALWATER, or Take Pom/.— From Leadbctter Point, Cape
ShoaWater, the North point of Shoahvater Bay, beors N.W. by X. J N., 5^
miles. Half a mile of the cape is low, sandy, and destitute of trees, but some
tolerably high land, covered with wood, rises immediately behind it, being the
only elevated ground, between Capo Disappointment and Point Greuvillc,
which approaches the shore-line. A lifeboat is stationed here.

It has been said the entrance of Shoalwater Buy resembles that of Columbia
Kiver, but the isolated position of Cape Disappointment and the seaward face
of its bold cliffs without trees form a peculiar feature. This with Scarboroiujh
Hill, partly bare, lying 5 or 6 miles eastward of it, the high mountains inland,
and in clear weather the beautiful snow-peak of Mount St. Helen's, have no
counterparts at Cape Shoahvater, and should remove all doubt in regard to tho
supposed general resemblance between them.

The LIGHTHOUSE on Cape Shoalwater, sometimes called Toke Point, is a
white structure, consisting of the keeper's dwelling, with a tower rising
through it, 35 ft. high, about a mile from the extremity of the cape. The
light is Jixed briyht, varied by flashes every 2 minutes, elevated 85 ft., and
visible 15 miles. Lat. 46° 43' 4' N., long. 124° 4' 28" W.

The bay was discovered by Lieut. John Meares, July 5th, 1788, in tho
Felice, but its shoal appearance deterred him from attempting to enter it. It
was surveyed in 1852 and 1855 by the U.S. survey party under Lieut. James
Alden, and it then had two entrances, separated by a middle ground, on which
was an island, in a similar way to the entrance of Columbia IJiver. But in
1868 this arrangement was changed, the South channel had much filled up,
and was said to be of no use, while the North channel had increased in depth
to 5 fathoms, and was much wider and deeper, besides being broad and straight.
The island hud disappeared, and vessels sailed over its position.

SIIOALWtVTKU 15 AY.

313

As tho bay is much frequented for oysters, which ore exported to Son Fraj-
cisco, &c., it is of some importance, and isi considered to be one of the best har-
bours on the coast North of San Francisco, being stated to be much more easy
of access than Columbia liiver.

The directions which follow are part of those issued by Lieut. Alden, but
they must be taken with the qualitications above alluded to. No stranger
should attempt to enter without a pilot. Buoys have been placed to mark tho
channels, their positions being shifted when the constant changes make it
necessary.

At 4 miles off the entrance to Shoal water Bay a depth of 10 fathoms is found,
and when well off shore a high double-peaked mountain shows to the eastward,
well inland.

In 185.5 the bar at the South channel had 4 fathoms of water upon it, was o
mile wide, and was 2 miles off the beach South of Leadbetter Point, with the
northernmost trees bearing N.E. by E. When inside, if the tide is low, sand-
bars and flats will show on both hands ; the broad deep channel to the S.E. is
distinctly marked by bare patches on either side, and a narrow deep channel
to the N.W. running into the North channel. The current runs very strong
through this channel. In summer, with a north-wester blowing, it is a dead
beat after passing the bar, and in some places the chaanel is less than half a
mile wide between the 3-fathoms lines. Coasters no not enter it except with a
southerly wind, and always pick out the channel from aloft. In summer they
have a leading wind out, and start on the first of the ebb.

The bar at the North channel had about 3$ fathoms upon it, and bore
S.W. by S. J S., 3 miles from the southern extremity of Cape Shonlwatei*, or
Toke Point. It was about a mile in extent within the S-fathoms line, and
bore N.W. by N. | N., 5 miles from the South bar. In making the bay from
the southward in summer, work to the ivorthward of Cape Shoalwater, then
run in and follow the shore outside of the breakers in 6 or 7 fathoms, gradually
approaching them, to cross the bar. If it is low water, sand-banks will show
in different directions, and the channels will be tolerably well marked.

The present invariable practice of vessels entering is to steer out the channel
from the mast-head. In calm weather the channels must be known, or a pilot
employed, if one is to be found.

The Middle Sands lie between the two channels. The southern tail was
S.W. li mile from Leadbetter Point, then ran N.W. by N. J N. for 2i miles,
then N.N.E. 2i miles, and E.N.E. IJ mile, with an average width of IJ mile.
At a mile outside of it soundings are found in 7 fathoms.

This bay, as its name implies, is so full of shoals that at low tides about one-
half of its area is laid bare. Good but narrow channels are found throughout
its extent, but no directions can be given for running them. Without a know-
ledge of them, or without a pilot, follow them only at low water. The currents
North Facijic. 2 3

V-:->i-

■ '■, f';

li^i

IHIil

iin

314

WASHINGTON TERRITORY.

then run with great velocity, and it is very difficult, and frequently impossible,
to keep a course against them. The arm, stretching southward toward Baker
Bay, is 1 5 miles long from Lcadbetter Point, with an average width of not less
than 3J miles, whilst the upper portion stretches to the N.E. for 9 miles to the
North of the Wallahpah River, reckoning from the middle of the line joining
Cape Shoalwater and Leadbetter Point.

The principal stream emptying into the bay is the Whil-a-pah or Wallahpah,
at its N.E. part. At about miles from Cape Shoalwater it is less than a
quarter of a mile wide, with low swampy banks, and steep bluffs on each side
about IJ mile apart.

The mouth oi Palux or Copalux River lies 5 miles N.E. J E. from Leadbetter
Point. It is half a mile wide at its mouth, and contracts very much in 2
miles. ITie Nasal enters about 1 1 miles South from the Palux, and abreast
of the middle of Long Island. It has over 20 ft. water at its mouth, with
bluff banks for some distance, until it begins to expand, when it is bordered
by flats.

Several streams open from the North side of the bay. One -^f these, the
Necomanche, near the Wallahpah, has 6 ft. in the main channel, anu shows 1^
mile wide at high tide.

There are three islands in the bay. Pine Island, about 1 J mile N.W. by N.
of the mouth of the Palux, is a small sand islet of only 4 or 5 acres in extcii ,
occupied by oystermen. It is near the channel and oyster beds, which stretch
for a couple of miles to the N.N.E. of it. The Indian name of this island is
Nass-too. The North end of Long Island is 8 miles from Leadbetter Point.
This island runs irregularly about S.E. for 6 miles, and has an average width
of IJ mile. It is covered with a dense forest of fir and undergrowth. At a
mile S.S.E. of Long Island is a very small islet called Round Island, of only a
few acres in extent, covered with wood and bushes. The shores of the bay,
except on the peninsula, are mostly composed of low perpendicular cliffs of
a sandy clay, in which are strata of recent fossil shells and the remains of
trees.

At 6 miles N.E. J N. of Leadbetter Point, is a sharp narrow cliff, 60 ft.
high, laking out into the bay, which is wearing it away, and has exposed many
large basaltic boulders. No other place on the bay presents this geological
feature.

The peninsula is a long flat marshy and sandy plain, elevated but a few
feet above the level of the sea, and covered, like the entire surface of this
country, with a dense growth of gigantic forest trees, principally spruce, fir,
and cedar, with a few specimens of maple, ash, and black alder. The spruce
freijucntly attains a diameter of 8 ft. The Indian name of the peninsula is
Tee-choots.

The shoals are covered with .shell-fish, amongst which the oyster is most
abundant, and the principal article of export. They arc small, and have a

GRAY HARBOUR-

SIS

coppery taste. Codfish and halibut abound ; sturgeon, said to be of good
quality, arc plentiful ; and salmon, of several varieties and excellent flavour,
exist in infinite numbers. In spring, vast shoals of small herring enter the
bay. In winter, wild fowl are innumerable, but these have been made shy by
the bad shooting of the Indians. Black and white swan, geese, mallards,
canvas-backs, &c., always reward the experienced sportsman.

It is asserted by settlers here that boats, canoes, Sec, which have broken
adrift and gone out of the bay, have in every instance been found on the bpach
North of the entrance, and generally between it and Gray Harbour.

From Cape Shoalwater to Point Hanson, the southern aide of the entrance
to Gray Harbour, the distance is 13^^ miles, and the hard ocean sand beach
furnishes an excellent road that can be travelled at half-tide by waggons.
Large quantities of cranberries are gathered at the back of this beach, and sent
to San Francisco.

GRAY HARBOUR.— The entrance to this bay is formed by Point Hanson
on the South, and the southern point of Eld Island on the North. The
northern end of this island is connected with the outer part of Point Br' ivn
at low water, but at high tide the beaches are one-quarter of a mile apart.
The bar off the entrance is subject to great and frequent changes, so that a
stranger should not attempt to enter without a pilot. The following descrip-
tion is chiefly derived from the surveys of 1862 and 1867.

The South end of Eld Island lies N.W. by W. i W., If mile from Point
Hanson ; its length is If mile, and the direction N.W. ^ W., with a breadth
of 200 to 400 yards. Half-way between Point Hanson and the island lies the
N.E. end of a shoal or middle ground, bare at low water, and stretching
S. by W. f W. for 1|- mile, with an average bret-di'. of thi-ec-eighths of a mile.
Between the N.E. end of this shoal and the South cad of Eld Island passes
the channel, with a wWth of less than five eighths of a mile, and a depth of 16
fathoms.

The channel over the bar, which had 25 ft. water in 1867, was then situated
3J miles W. by S. J S. from Fort Chehalis flagstaff" (half a mile South of the
extremity of Point Hanson), and 2J miles S.W. i vS. from the South point of
Eld Island. From hence the channel ran straight to the N.E., and was marked
by buoys. A survey, made in 1881, showed there was a straight entrance
channel, with 18 ft. water at low tide.

The following directions applied to the entrance to Gray Harbour in 1883.
The solitary tree on the South end of Brown Point must be steered for on the
bearing of N. ^ E., until the house on the North part of Hanson Point bears
N.E. From this position the outer bar buoy, black and u-hite, in 8 fathoms,
should be seen ; pass close to it, then steer N. by Jv, keeping the mound on
the land immediately behind Brown Point in line with the right part of tlio
first broad depression in the trees on Brown Point, which leads to the inner

-T--> iPSV^l^-^J

.^•^^'HiMt^ff.^UiH.M

mi I

316

WASniNC-TON TERRITORY.

bar buoy in 5 fathoms of water. II.M.C Heroine, 1883, passed out of the
North ohannol one hour before high water, tht least depth l)eing 27 ft.

If the buoy cannot be seen in rough weather, from the deptli of 6 fathoms
steer N.E. ^ E., with Hanson Point a little on the starboard bow, between
buoys Nos. 1 and 2, If they cannot be seen, the North and South breakers are
a very good guide. Hanson Point should be passed within three-quarters of a
cable, in 6 fathom.". Thence steer .% E. i N. for the red buoy, No. 4, off
Whitcomb Flats, passing it at the distance of half a cable, and then steer for
Simpson's saw-mill, a little on th* starboard bow.

There is a depth of 20 ft. on th« bar at low water, and 14 ft. can be carried
to Simpson's saw-mill from No, 4 lyjwy. At low wav.r the flats are 't»ry.

The peninsula terminated by Point Hanson is shout three-cjuarters of a mile
in breadth, and 3^^ miles long, and covered with fir to within half a mile of
the point, which is a low sand-spit embracing a small marsh. The general
direction of the peninsula is N.W., and inside it lies South Bay, with a wldtli
of half a mile, affording the only safe anchorage near the entrajice. More
than half of this bay is occupied by mud-flats. To secure- the best position
here, bring the northernmost trees on Point Hanson to bear .S. 71'^ W., distant
three-quarters of a mile, and anchor in the channel in 3^ fathoms. In 1862
this position placed the vessel out of the influence of the South channel run-
ning to the Chchalis.

The anchorage under Point Brown is not only uncomfortable but unsafe to
a vessel without heavy ground tackle. At this point there is no protection
against the full sweep of the heavy summer winds, which, blowing at times
counter to the strong currents in the bay, cause a very disagreeable short sea.
Another circumstance tends to render this axichorage unsafe. Between Point
Hanson and Eld Island lies the middle shoal, 'vhiih, being bare at low water,
confine* the waters to a narrow regular channel : but when the tide rises
sufficiently to cover this shoafl, the couflicting currents cause a heavy over-
fall, esper^ially on the large tides, strong enough to tear a vessel from her
anchors.

The peninsula terminated by Point Brown is about a mile in breadth, and
4J miles long ; its general direction is S.E. by 8. The bay shore is covered
with fir. The outer shorr is tihe commencement of a sand waste, stretching
towards the Copalis River. Between the timber and this waste is a large pond
or lagoon, and outside that the sand a covered with coarse beach grass, and
stunted lupine bushes, and cut up with the tracks of boars, cougars, wolves,
elk, &c. From the North end of Kid Island a body of water stretches into the
sand waste parallel ar.d near the ocean Lc.ich for about a mile. Close under
the bay shore of this peninoula runs a narrow crooked channel, which Whidbey
(1792) surveyed for 2 mile*, anti « which fae found 4 fathoms.

From Point Hanson the moutii >/ ^'//ehalt's fiher hears N.E. f E., distant 12
miles, and this course is thegen<^ri*l ^c-H-ion of the S.E, side of tlie bay, c.\ce()t

10 miles

! I,

CfllAY HARBOUR— CHRIIALIS RIVER.

Sir

the indentation forming South Bay. The first bluff inside the point is named
Stearns, hearing N.E. by E., and distjint 5J miles ; around the S.W. side of
this bluff comes John liiver. "Within 1 ^ mile of the mouth of the Chehalis tho
Ne\iskah'I enters, coming from the S.E.

From Point Brown, Point New lies N.E. ^ N., distant 4J miles, and off it
are two rocks, called JVed Rocks. I'rackenridge liltiff" commences about three-
quarters of a mile East of Point New, and extends 3 miles eastward to the low
land bordering lIoquiam(s River. From Point New tlie shore-line runs nearly
straight to tlie Chehalis, distant 8 miles, and the point of Stearns Bluff lies
S.E. i S., distant A\ miles. To the N.N.W. of the line joining Points New
and Brown lies North Bay, consisting of an immense mud-flat, bare at low
water, and having an area of 22 square miles. At its head lies Saddle Hill.
In the stretch of 4 miles N.W. of Point New are three small streams, called the
Typso, Chinois, and Humtolapy, emptying into North Bay. They work narrow,
crooked channels through the mud flats, but at low water there is not sufficient
depth to carry a whale-boat through them.

It is calculat'^'t that more than nine-tenths of Gray Harbour is bare at low
water. Inside ti,p csitrance the area of the surface of the water, bounded by
tlie flats bare at low tide, is only 4i square miles. This will give a fair idea
of the limited extent of the harbour. Tlirough the flats lying between this
available space and the Cliehalis, 7-un two contracted channels. Tho northern
commences at a point 2 miles E.N.E. from Point Brown, is the only available
one, and would require buoying out for its entire length. For about 6 miles
it was three-eighths of cj mile wide, with a depth of 4 fathoms. The .South
channel commences just inside Point Hanson, and is very contracted and
shallow. The flats are so extensive, and the mud so soft in places, that it is
impossible to reach the shore except at hifjli tides. This fact has retarded the
development of the trade in lumber, although the shores are heavily timbered.

The trade of the bar amounts to carrying the supplies needed by a few
settler?, and the people employed in the salmon fishery.

Chehalis Elver can be navigated by small steamers for 20 miles, to the
mouth of the Latsop or Salsop, which comes from the northward, and for 25
miles farther, at higli tide. Boats can go much hiffher. The country behind
the bay appears low and flat, and well watered by the Chehalis and tributaries,
which drain a section well timbered, and doned with many amail prairies and
bottom lands.

Copalis River, — From Point BroMm the shon line trends about N.N.W. for
10 miles to the mouth of the Copalis. The barren waste of Point Brown con-
tluuei along this shore, commencing with a breadrn of over i mile, stretching
from tho ocean to a dense forest of fir. and growing narrower a.s it approaches
the Copalis, where the timber comes to tho water's edge.

This stream is about 100 yards wide, but the mouth is aimost closed by m
bar. Upon its banks reside the Copalis tribe of Indians, from whom the rivui'

I li

' ' r

■■ :. ?;

■;■ V

III'

31ft

WASniNTiTON TErvRiTOKY.

derives its name. Like all the streams on this coast, it abounds in salmon, but
those caught here are celebrated for their richness of flavour.

From the Copalis to Point Grcnville the shore runs N.W. :}■ N., about 16
miles, and continues low, nearly straight, and bordered by sand beach, which
changes to shingle, disposed in long rows parallel to the coast. These ridges
of shingle dam the mouths of many small streams and form ponds, abounding
in trout, and -well stocked with beaver and otter, according to the accounts of
the Indians. The high land also approaches much nearer the beach, and forms
sandstone cliffs, with rocky ledges projecting into the ocean.

POINT GEENVILLE is a bluff, rocky promontory, stretching t^-estward
about a mile, and then southward about a quarter of a mile, forming a very
contracted and exposed roadstead. The 3-fathoms line extends half a mile
from the beaoh, compelling vessels, except of very light draught, to anchor so
far out, that the point and the rc-cks off it afford but little protection from the
N.W. winds. It is useles.s during the winter months. The point has high
hills lying behind it, and many rocks immediately off it. Two of these, about
75 ft. high, lie E. by S., 400 yards distant: another lies S.W. \ S., half a mile
distant, with 5 and 6 fathoms around it, and this is said to show a large per-
foration through it, when viewed from the S.E. or N.W. Others sLretch
along t.ie coast to the N.W., one of them showing from the South as a leg-of-
multon sail. The bluff itself is composed of fine sandstone, is very sleep, and
may be ascended by a difficult tr.-iil, which is u;^cd by the Indians. It is said
to be a great resort for sea otters, which are bunted by the natives.

North of Point Grenville to C'npe Flattery the shore is bold and rocky, with
occasional short reaches of ,«and beaoh. The timber comes down to the water ;
moderately high hills approach the coast, through which cm])ty numerous
small streams, whilst the irregular Olympus Range looms uj) far in the interior.
In winter these mountains are covered witls snow, which lies in the gorges and
valleys nearly the whole summer. Mount Olt/mpus is the highest peak of
the range. It attains an elevation of 6,54(5 ft., in lat. 47° 59' N., long.
123" 30' W.

Northward of Point Grenville the coast begins to increase gradually in
height ; the shore is composed of low cliffs, with a beach at their base, and
many detached off-lying rocks. There appears to be a current setting north-
ward at about IJ mile an hour. In the vicinity of Destruction Island a strong
current or tide has been experienced setting inshore.

Qu^-nt-utl River. — The mouth of this small stream is between 3 and 4 miles
N.W^. by W. from Point Grenville, and is almost closed by the shingle and
gravel thrown up by the surf. Tl.erc is, however, a contracted opening for the
passage of canoes in calm weather. The closing of the entrance has so dammed
the tiver as to form e small lake inside, upon the banks of which is situated a
village of the Queniutis, a race of Indians once hostile to all other tribes.
With others to the northward they were notorious for their hostility und

* 'Hiis i«l„
name, by wli

DESTRUCTION ISLAND.

319

viudictivcness to the whites, having taken and destroyed several Spanish,
English, and Russian vessels and their crews. Hence we moot with the names
Destruction Island, Isla de Dolores, Punta do Martires, &c., in this immediate
vicinity. Now, however, they are ever ready to render assistance to vessels in
distress. The river is said to rise in a lake at the foot of the mountains.

For 4 miles above the Qucniutl the coast trends in the same direction,
N.W. by W., is composed of sandstone cliffs, and bounded by many precipitous
rocks, the lieight and direction of which are generally that of the cliff. In the
Coast Survey reconnaissance of 18o3 one is placed 2 J mil offshore, in lat.
47'' 27', and the vessel's track is laid do>;'n inside of it. A great many largo
rocky islets lie close inshore in this vicinity, but northward the coast is nearly
clear to Destruction Island. It makes a slight curve eastward, and alternates
with bokl yellow clifls and low shores.

DESTRUCTION ISLAND.— This island is the only one found deserving the
apjiellution after leaving the Farallones, off San Francisco. It is about 75 ft.
high, quite flat on the top, covered with grass, but destitute of trees, and has
liigh perpendicular sides of the same height as the clifls on tlic main. It is
said that there are some remarkable perforations through a rock near it, but
these are doubtless only seen in particular directions, for in passing close to it
the surveyors never noticed them. On the eastern end were formerly some
rude Indian Imts. In Vancouver's time he found two or three dwarf trees at
either end. In running along the coast, 10 miles off, it is very difficult to
make out this island, because, being within 3 miles of the main, it is pro-
jucted against the coast cliffs, and cannot be distinguished from them until
close uj)ou it.

The island is about half a mile long N.N.E. and S.S.W., and 300 yards wide
near its southern end. A sunken rock, with 16 ft. over it, lies about 220
yards South of the extremity of the reef oflF the South end, and a quarter of a
mile from the island. Off the North point projects a gravelly tongue, about
200 yards long, curving to the N.W., and just beyond this a ledge sweeps one-
third of a mile to the westward, with a few detached rocks outside it. Off the
North end of the island and ledge a number of large detached rocks extend in
the general direction of the island, nearly a mile from the edge of the bluff, and
generally marked by heavy breakers.

The whole extent of the island and reefs is not more than If mile in length
by half a mile wide. The soundings between the islsnd and the shore vary
from 1 to 12 fathoms. There is ru) shelter here from S.E. winds, and it should
be avoided.*

* This island is ciilUid /sVa de J'oloret upon old Spfliiinh iniip.s. It received its prvseut
niiine, by which it ia only known on the coast, in 1787, from Capteio iHrkely, who Bent a
I'liig-boat (rum King (ieorge's Sound to expli.re an far South as Ut. 47°. Tt»e yr«w of a
iiiimllt;r boat entorud i bhullow river, and rowed up auiue dintaucu, »here iht-y wi«« uttaoki d
und mui'doit'd by the ludians.

820

WASHINGTON TERRITORY.

From Destruction Island, northward, the shore is composed of cliffs, which
form a regular curve to a point bearing N.W. ^ W. from the North end of the
island, and 1 1 miles distant ; thence the shore runs nearly straight on that
course for 10 miles, to two high, ahrujjt, and well-marked rocks, standing a
mile from shore. The outer one is bold, and covered with tall trees, but the
inner one is bare. They are in about lat. 48° N., long. 124° 43 W. Many
others, but smaller, lie inside of them, and 19 fathoms is found close outside.
Along this stretch the shore is irregular c.nd bluff, with many high rocky
islets off it.

In the indentation northward of Destruction Island, and about 4 miles from
it, empties a small stream called Hooch by the Indians.

About 15 miles from Destruction Island, off the mouth of the stream called
Quil-ley-ute, are two rocky islets covered with trees, the southern one having
a cave in its sea-faec. About 3 miles farther northward is Table Rock, about
70 ft. high.

FLATTERY ROCKS.— From the two rocks above mentioned to Cape Flattery
in 48^ 23' N., the bearing is almost N.N.W., passing through a group of high,
well-marked, rocky islets, in about lat. 48° 11' N., named Flattery Rocks.
Before reaching these the coast-line curves about a mile eastward, with a bluff
shore nearly free from rocks for about 8 miles, when a large white rock,
half a mile out, looms up prominently, and is distinctly seen against the main
la-iid.

Flattery Rocks extend between 2 and 3 miles from shore ; the outer ledge is
awash, with one islet on it, and the track of the coast surveying steamer is
laid down inside of it, with soundings in 9 to 20 fathoms. High, abrupt, tim-
bered islets lie inside, with their ocean faces nenrly perpendicular, about 150
ft. high, and sloping landward. Where desti.ute of trees, these are covered
with grass, bushes, &c.

From Flattery Rocks a high rocky coast, bordered by outlying rocks, ex-
tends for 8 miles, when a low sand beach occurs, receiving a small stream
which runs E.N.E., and finally North, behind the mountain constituting Cape
Flattery, to within 200 yards of the beach in Nte-ah Bay. A ri.se of 20 or 30
feet of the sea would make Cape Flattery an island, extending 5 miles ( , '.N.W.)
by 3 miles in breadth. This creek is used by the outer coast Indians during
the prevalence of heavy winter gales, when the passage outside the cape would
be impracticable.

From Point Grenvillc to Cape Flattery the hills rising from the coast are
about 2,000 ft. high, densely covered with trees, and cut up by innumerable
valleys. The shore is inhabited by numerous tribes of Indians accustomed to
war, and bitterly hostile to the whites. They are far superior to the Indians
found along the southern coast. Their villages are heavily atockaded, aud the
houses made of cedar boards, which they have cut with great industry from tb«
tree. Their houses are very large, and partitioned off into Stalin for each

The

extrem
Biver ]
tion ha
I'eachin,
'jeen co;
little fre
Victoi
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said to h
for heav
to Octob(
4,400 mi,
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territory,
about 25 ,
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reached in
Ocean -g
f^t St. Mic

J'espectivel
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DIRECTI
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S"'-ve}'ed, a
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ci(

1898.

^or the Third Edition of

FimATS DIRECTOEY FOR THE

NAVIGATION OP THE

NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN,

-:o:-

reoohing the »S M f "^^'toinrng t],e easie, ■^'°'" .'A. great atten.
been eofn^fef ^ ,"' '■•»'>' ">= coast, and tl llllw' '""*f ' '■<'^'«'' '<='
little frequented ' ""^ °' """■''>"< »' vesseh bo iTl ^ '"fomalion ha,

Vi»'orttZ""'a'„°d1^-',r '° •'»' S-dT^. °„ ; thfn- '■'" ""'
or from the varin.,. ^^^"^^ are the nortq L 7u ^° J^u-ectory.

said to belhlpr •''PP'"'"^^'^^ ^° fcfae goldfiell ? ^^ "'^^^^^ ^^^^^^ 'o
territory, is by that ' T^ '^'^' ^'^'^'^^^^ by n ^^/f .^'^ ^,^^vson City.

™ssed Saftf. * »/'■-. and otheri,Xt^™;; '" j^)™; Canal),

'» ">e Di.-ecto,-y Of the ^?"''» '<= "'" Pages on .vh c ,?,! ' "">' "'«■

» close to the AT^Lr °"^ '"»'" »oM of the „l *, ° ^soribed

-eX"ndTa? '' ^^^^^^^^Z:^>:'] '"■'"■* -"'"-'Ian

IT; 7- "'™^' "- '^-"«'-;.a'i;i s: ■■■'7" . "--- -

^Vo;^;i Pacjic Addenda. "" '^^^'^"^ to reach

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2 ADDENDA.

the Gulf of Georgia. Seymour Narrows, in Discovery Passage, should not
be attempted except at slack water. Broughton Strait is generally used,
and is recommended as the safest. After passing through this strait, keep
the Vancouver shore aboard, follow Goletas Channel, and enter Queen
Charlotte Sound by way of Christie Pass, which is said to be safe at all
times and at all stages of the tide. Issuing from Christie Pass, a straight
course is laid for Pino Island, which is left to the eastward; thence for
Egg Island, which is also left to the eastward, and thence the course is
laid for Cape Calvert.

The inner passage is always to be preferred, for the reason that in winter
there is less inconvenience from S.E. and S.W. gales, and in sununer the
fogs and high N.W. winds are partly avoided.

Proceeding northward from Capo Calvert, Mr. W. E. George, a qualified
coast pilot, says vessels pass through Fitzhugh Sound, Lama Channel,
Seaforth Channel, Milbank Sound, Finlayson Channel, and Grenville
Channel to Chatham Sound. Those channels, which are fairly well charted,
offer no dilliculties for the largest ships with an experienced pilot.

The usual track of steam-vessels through the inner channels of Alaska is
from Chatham Sound to westward of Cape Fox, then through Tongas
Narrows, Clarence Strait, Stikino Strait, and Sumner Strait to Cape
Decision. Tongas Narrows is a perfectly safe passage for the largest
steamers with a competent pilot. Sumner Strait, the best channel for
large vessels, has some hidden dangers, notably McArthur Ledge, the Eye
Opener, and Helen Rock. Wrangel Narrows is the passage commonly
used by mail steamers of 1,000 tons burden, or 220 ft. in length, but is not
a safe channel for larger vessels, or those exceeding 17 ft. draught, and its
passage should only be attempted at high water slack.

From Cape Decision to Juneau, through Chatham Straits, Frederick
Sound, and Stephen Passage, is open, clear navigation, for which the
charts are sulliciently reliable, and, with an experienced pilot, there is no
difllculty. Large steam-vessels bound to Sitka should take the sea passage
via Cape Ommaney, but, if required to touch at Juneau, may proceed to
sea from there by way of Cross Sound.

Cross Sound presents no difliculties to navigation, except that at times
great quantities of ice-floes, drifting with the strong currents, render the
passage somewhat dangerous, and only to be undertaken in clear weather,
or daylight. Anchorages may be found at Hooniah, Willoughby Cove,
Bartlett Bay, and along the S.E. shore of Gustavus Point, towards Pleasant
Island. The passage inside Pleasant Island, to the northward, also affords
fair anchorage, but, in the absence of sui'veys, should not be attempted
without a local pilot.

For remarks as to Magnetic Variation, see the Addenda for page 324.

For the routes between Victoria, Vancouver, and Nanaimo, see the
Addenda for page 399.

Parie 318. — Sonora Reef. — Between Point Grcnvillc. and Cape Elizabeth,
3f miles to N.W. by W. | W., a dangerous breaking reef is reported to
extend li mile seaward.

ADDENDA. 3

P.if/cs 318-319, 320. — The Qucniutl Imlians arc now under Government
control, and always ready and anxious to render all the aid they can to
rescue and assist those who may be unfortunate enough to be cast away
on tiieir shores. The currents on this coast appear to ho uncertain, the
wreck and loss of the ship Port Gordon, in 1H88, being attributed to a
strong southerly current, whereas competent authorities have reported a
set in the opposite direction.

Page 319.— DESTRUCTION ISLAND LIGHTHOUSE, on the S.W. end,
is a white iron tower, 80 ft. high, showing a. jlash'nuj bright light every 10
seconds, elevated 144 ft., and visible 18 miles. In foggy weather, a Siren
sounds a blast of 5 seconds in every minute.

Page 320.— FLATTERY ROCKS.— A red Whistle Bnmj lies in 24| fathoms,
1| mile S.W. by W. * W. from Umatilla Beef, and 13 miles S. | E. from
Cape Flattery lighthouse. It is proposed to place a lightvessel hereabout.

Page 322.— STRAIT of JUAN de FUCA.— Rocky shoals and dangers
are usually marked by kelp during the summer and autumn, and vessels
should keep clear of it. In winter and spring it is not always visible.

Pages 323, 405. — -Soundings. — In June, 1897, a sounding of 2G fathoms,
very coarse sand, was reported from the steamer Mogul, when in latitude
48^ 46' N., long. 126' 36' W., outside the 100-fathoms line as shown on the
chart. Another quick cast showed no bottom at 98 fathoms.

A 13-fathomsbank is said to lie about 14if miles N.W. by W. ^ W. from
Cape Flattery lighthouse. In 1889, H.M.S. Siuiftsurc found 20 fathoms
hereabout.

Pages 324, 392.— /'b^/.— Observations taken during 7 years, 1886-1892,
show that from November to June there is not nmch fog in the strait,
April being the clearest month. July, August, and September, are -he
foggiest months, the average for these at Cape Flattery being 119, 183, and
120 hours respectively ; at Ediz Hook, 80, 86, and 65 hours ; at Dungeaess,
69, 88, and 77 hours ; and at Wilson Point, 48, 65, and 82 hours.

Magnetic Variation. — In 1889, Mr. Cumming Dewar, of the yacht
Xi/anza, reported that when about 5 miles from the Vancouver Island
shore, between the River Jordan and Beechey Head, the compasses were
powerfully affected by some local attraction, which disappeared as the
vessel was kept more over towards the mainland.

Recent information shows that the magnetic variation, between Van-
couver Island and the mainland of British Columbia, is also changing much
more rapidly than was previously supposed. In 1897, at Vancouver Harbour
there appeared to have been an increase of about 1" 35' since 1891. At
Baynes Sound, the chart showed the variation as about 23i°E.,but obser-
vations showed it to be more than 2G'. Similar results have also been
ol)tained in other localities, and mariners are advised to bear this iu mind,
when navigating ir these waters.

P(7(7<! 326.— CAPE FLATTERY LIGHT, on Tatouch Island, now shows
a red sector over Duncan and Duntze Rocks, between N. 39° W. and
N. 32' W. It is obscured to the eastward, between N. 73° E. and S. 15° E.,

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but eastward of Chibadelil Rocks it is not visible till northward of N. 08"^ E.
There is a H'ujnal Stdtion hero, with telct,'rai)hic communication.

Vessels are reconunended not to pass between Tatouch Island and
Duncan Rock, as breakers liave been seen about IJ cable S.E. and east-
ward of the latter. In lH'.);j, a -4-fatlioins shoal was reported to lie 7J
cables N. by W, ^ W. from Tatouch Island lighthouse.

Pages 32G-327. — Nee'ah Bay. — A KmaW fixed hrujht light, elevated IG ft.,
is shown on a post on Ba-ad-dnh or Mec-na Point, the eastern point of the
bay. A red Whistle Piioy lies in the entrance, in about 22 fathoms, 4

cables N.W. of the North end of Waaddah Island.

Parjes 328-.329.— Port Angelos. — In fogf,'y weather, a Bell is sounded in a
•white tower, 108 yards N.W. by N. from Ediz Jlook lighthouse, being
struck by machinery once every 15 seconds.

Page 329. — New Dungeness. -A red buoy was placed in 4^ fathoms, oS
the extremity of the spit.

I'age 331.— Libby Rock, witli 11 ft. over it, lies about Ih cables off
Middle Point, and 3^ miles W.H.W. of Wilson Point lighthouse ; a red buoy
lies northward of it, in 8 fathoms.

Page 331.— WILSON POINT LIGHT is now Jixed bright, varied by a
rc(/ y/rts/i- every 20 seconds. A ?yv^ /;i(o// lies in 7 fathoms, oil' the foul

ground N.W. of the point, with tiie point bearing E. by S. ^ S., distant 7^
cables. Another red buoy lies in 5 fathoms, off Point Hudson, li mile
S.E. ^ S. from the lighthouse.

Pages 331-332.— PORT TOWNSEND now contains about 5,000 in-
habitants, and carries on a considerable trade in the export of timber.
The wharves have a depth of 20 ft. alongside. There are some small en-
gineering works here, and provisions are plentiful. A large well appointed
new hospital was opened in 18'J5, superseding the previous one. In 1896,
the exports were valued at £703,827, and the imports at £80,500 ; in that
year, 1,919 vessels entered, with a total tonnage of 980,081. Pilotage is
optional, and vessels can obtain the aid of steamtugs, if required. There
is railway communication with the western shore of the northern branch
of Hood's Canal. There are facilities for rating chronometers at the
custom-house. Vessels entering Puget Sound must first clear at the
Quarantine Station at Diamond Point.

In ]\Iarch, 1898, the steamer Victoria, drawing 18 to 21 ft., struck
heavily on some obstruction among the kelp, at about 3i cables S.E. g E.
from the custom-house.

Lights. — A small y/.n,v(f red lantern light is shown on Hudson Point ; and
another, elevated 22 ft., on Marroustont Point. At the latuer a Bell is
sounded in foggy weather, two quick blows every 15 seconds.

Page 333.— PUGET SOUND, &c.— Reliable pilots may be obtained for
the navigation of these waters, but at present pilotage is not com^yulsory.

Page 333. — Bush Point is marked by a small fixed bright light, elevated
25 feet.

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ADDHNDA. 5

Page. 33i5, — Port Madison. —A small fixed red light, elevated 2.'3 ft., is
fihowii on Miiiiroc Point, at 150 yards from the end of the Hpit, on the S.K.
side of the entrance.

Port Orchard, —A (,'overnment dry dock was opened at the Naval Station
hero in 18U6, being coiiHtructed of timber, with a masonry entrance and
concrete floor. It is G7.5 ft. \on^, with an entrance 92 ft. wide, having 30
feet over the sill at mean high water.

Duwamish Bay. -A small /;"j*«/ bright light, elevated 12 ft., is shown on
Bdttery I'oint. A red Dell Ilitni/ lies in G fathoms, close off the spit

extending N.N.W. of Dmraviish Head.

Pages 33.0-330. — West Point Lighthouse. — In foggy weather a steam
Trumpet sounds a blast of 5 seconds in every half-minute. The Bell is
discontinued.

SEATTLE now has about 70,000 inhabitants, and is the largest and
most thriving town of this region, being connected with the (!iuia(lian and
United States main railways, and having lines of steamers to Alaska,
Japan, Ac. It is also the headquarters of the Puget Sound fisheries. There
arc shipbuilding and engineering works, where ordinary repairs can bo
executed, and also several largo sawmills. The patent slip will only take
up small vessels. The wharves have depths of 40 to 45 ft. along?'de, and
the head of the bay is being deepened and improved by diedging. Coal is
stored in large quantities. The exports are chiefly wheat. Hour, tinned
salmon, and timber, valued at .£219,874 in 1896 ; the imports were valued
at £3G,283. In that year, 113 vessels entered the port, with a tonnage of
12G,505.

Page 336. — Eagle Harbour. — Two huoj/s have been placed in the entrance,
a red one near the S.E. extremity of Wing Point reef, and a black one off
the spit on the South side of the entrance.

Blakeley Harbour. — There are some iron and wood shipbuilding yards
here.

Restoration Point. — Decatur Beef, extending off Restoration Point, is
marked by a red buoy, in 8 fathoms, on its eastern side, 2 cables E. by S. -j S.
from the point.

Page 337. — Rich Passage is the narrow channel southward of Bainbridgo
Island into Port Orclmrd. A small Ji.rcd bright light, elevated 25 ft., is
bliown on Orchard Point, on the South side of the entrance A pole

beacon stands on Orchard Bocks, on the East side of the passage, and a
red buoy lies in 8 fathoms, 2 cables S. ^ E. from them.

Page 337. — Commencement Bay. — A sm&W fixed bright light, elevated 12
feet, is shown on Brown Point, on the North side of the entrance.

Page 338.— PORT TACOMA is now connected with the Canadian and
United States railway systems, and is the chief place of trade of this
region, having lines of steamers to .lapan, fee. The town now contains
about 40,000 inhabitants. Coal is stored here in large quantities, and
there are spacious warehouses at the wharves, alongside which the largest
vessels can lie afloat, in 30 to 40 ft. water. There are several foundries

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and engineering works, and large sawmills. The exports are chiefly wheat,
flour, cotton and woollen goods, and timber, valued at £1,236,040 in 1896.
Steamtugs may be had, and are sometimes met with as far seaward as
Cape Flattery.

PiUje 338. — Quartermaster Harbour. — A red buoy lies in 8 fathoms, off
Finer Point shoal, on the East side of the entrance. There is a floating
dry dock here, 325 ft. long, capable of raising a weight of 5,000 tons, and
there are facilities for repairs, &c.

Page 338. — Maury Island is separated from the S.E. side of Yaahon
Island by a channel with 4 fathoms least water in it. On Robinson Point,
its eastern extreme, is a white frame lighthouse, 25 ft. high, showing a
fixed red light, elevated 40 ft. ; in foggy weather, a steam Whistle sounds a
blast of 6 seconds in every minute.

Page 339. — Baloh Passage. — A small fixed bright light, elevated 25 ft.,
is shown on the South end of Eagle Island.

Page 340. — Olympia now contains about 4,500 inhabitants. A channel
400 ft. wide, with 6 ft. in it at low water, has been dredged to the wharf,
and improvements "Are still in progress.

Page 341. — Port Gamble. — A black can buoy lies in 16 ft., near the mud
bank on the East side of the narrow entrance channel.

Pa/fe 342. — Everett, at the mouth of the River Snohomish, on the eastern
side of the southern part of Possession Sound, is an important town, con-
nected with the railway system, and having iron and shipbuilding works,
paper mills, &o.

Pages 342, 343. — Port Susan, &c. — The channel over the flats at the
North end is uarked by red spar buoys on its eastern side, in depths of 9
to 10 ft. at high water. The western side of the channel over the flats

in Skagit Bay, from Utsalady to Stanwood, on Stillaguamish River, is
marked by similar buoys, in 12 to 15 feet. The southern side of the

channel, from Utsalady to Skagit River, is also marked by similar buoys,
in 12 to 16 feet. Several small lights are shown for the use of coasting
vessels, in Skagit Bay, &c.

Page 343. — Partridge Point. — A red Bell Buoy lies in ISJ fathoms, out-
side the kelp, and about 1 mile off the point, with Wilson Point lighthouse
bearing S.E. ^ S.

Page 344. — Deception Passage. — A small fixed bright light, elevated 40
feet, is shown on the S.W. point of Fidalgo Island.

Page 344.— BOSAKIO SJB.ATI.—Latoson Reef is marked by a Bell Buoy,
painted in red and black bands, lying in 6 fathoms off its eastern side, with
Smith Island lighthouse bearing S.W. by S. J S., and Deception Islet
N.E. by E., the latter distant 1^ mile.

Page 345. — Burrows Bay. — A smekll fixed bright light ia shown on the end
of the wharf.

ADDENDA. 7

Page 346. — Oaemei Cliaiuiel is the passage between Guemes Island and
the North end of Fidalgo Island, and has a red buoy lying in 4 fathoms, on
the South side of the western entrance, at 3 cables N.E. ^ N. from Shannon
or Ship Point. City of Seattle Hock, with 9^ ft. over it, is marked by a red
buoy, in 14 feet. There is a branch railway from the mainland to Shannon
Point, passing the settlement of Anacortes, on the North side of Fidalgo
Island. In clear weather, with a strong flood tide, vessels bound to
Bellingham Bay from the southward usually pass through this channel.

Pages 346-347. — Bellingham Bay, fto. — Several dangers have been found
in the channels leading to Bellingham Bay, and buoys have been placed to
mark some of them. Some small lights are also exhibited, to assist in the
navigation, which is not recommended without local knowledge or the aid
of a pilot. With ebb tide, small vessels bound westward pass through Hale
Passage, eastward of Lummi Island.

Page 348. — Drayton Harbour. — A small fixed red light is shown on some
piles in 4 fathoms, off Tongue Point, on the South side of the channel
leading to Blaine. This town is connected with the railway system.

Page 348. — Mud Bay, the N.E. angle of Boundary Bay, is filled by a
mudflat, dry at low water, through which are several very shallow chan-
nels, marked by pile beacons, leading to Nicomcck'l liiver.

Page 352. — Davidson Bock is marked by a black can buoy, in 26 feet.

Page 353. — Belle Bock is marked by a black can buoy, in f) fathoms, to
E. by S. f S.

Page 353. — Black Rock is marked by a pole beacon, bearing a barrel.

Page 354. — Lnrnmi Island. — A rock, with 12 ft. over it, about half a mile
W.N.W. of Migley Point, the North point of the island, is marked by a
nun buoy, in 7 fathoms, close to its S.E. side. A ledge, with 12 to 15 ft.
over it, extends about three-quarters of a mile E. by N. J N. from Migley
Point.

Page 355. — Cattle Point. — A small fixed bright light, elevated 100 ft., is
shown on the southern extremity of San Juan Island.

Salmon Bank. — A black can buoy lies in 5 fathoms, on the outer edge,
with Cattle Point light bearing North.

Page 356. — Oriffln Bay, — Netv Slioal, with 3 ft. over it, in the fairway
of the entrance to North Bay, 6 cables E. by N. from the North end
of Dinner Island, is marked by a spar buoy.

Turn Rock is marked by a pole beacon, bearing a barrel.

Page 357. — PatoB Island.— A small fixed red light, elevated 30 ft., is
show'i on Alden Point, the western extremity ; in foggy weather, a Daboll
Trumpet sounds a blast of 2 seconds in every 20 seconds.

Page 358. — Clements Beef is marked by a red tiun buoy, lying in 13
fathoms, about 2^ cables N.E. of it.

Page 359. — Upright Channel. — High Water or SJuig Rock is marked by
a polo beacon, bearing a barrel.

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Page 361. — Thatcher Paaaage. — Lairson Rock only uncovers at very low
tides, and is marked by a can bvay, painted in red and black bamls, lying
in 6^ fathoms, near its southern edge.

Page 361.— Obstrnotion Island.— A small fixed bright light, elevated 24
feet, is shown on the S.E. point, and a fixed red light on the S.W. point.
A pole b( icon, bearing a barrel, stands on a rock in Peavine Pass, close to
the North end of Blakely Island.

Page 364.— Discovery Island Light, &o.— See Addenda for page 402.

Page 365. — ^Zero Book is awash at high water, and is marked by a black
stone beacon, with a pole bearing a conical topmark, elevated 28 feet.

Xelp Reefs. — A stone beacon, 20 ft. high, stands on the eastern side, and
the buoy has been removed. A 3-fathoms patch lies northward of Davey
Island.

Page 366.— SATUSNA ISLAND Lighthouse is a square white wooden
tower, 60 ft. high, standing on the East point, showing a revolving bright
light every half-minute, elevated 125 ft., and visible 18 miles seaward, be-
tween N.W. by W. } W. and S.W. ^ D.

Orcas Knob, well open East of Waldron Island, S.E. by S. J S., Heads
dear of the foul ground eastward of Tuinbo Island.

A conical black buoy was placed in 12 fathoms, oS the extremity of the
reef extending over 1 mile off the East point of Saturna Island.

Page 366. — Cormorant Bay. — A 2-fathoms rock, usually marked by kelp,
lies 2^ cables S.S.W. of the S.E. rock of Johnstone Beef.

Page 367. — Plumper Sound. — A small rocky patch, with about 16 ft. over
it, lies on the eastern side, 2f cables W. by N. from Croker Point.

Page 368. — Mayne Island. — A 2-ft. rock lies in the kelp, at 1^ cable
E. by S. from Edith Point, on the North coast.

Page 369. — Stuart Island.— A smaXl fixed bright light, elevated 35 ft., is
shown on Turn Point, and in foggy weather a Trumpet sounds a blast of
3 seconds in every half-minute.

Page 371.— Directions. — With a strong flood tide, vessels bound to the
southward from Itoche Harbour are recommended to pass through Spieden
and President Channels, passing westward of Barnes Island into Bosario
Strait. With the ebb, in clear weather, Spieden and San Juan Channels
can be used.

Page 372.— Sidney Channel.— On the coast, in lat. 48° 39' N., is the town
of Sidney, off which shoal ground extends for about 3 cables, its outer
edge being marked by two red spar buoys. A depth of 9 ft. is found about
3^ cables N. by E. | E. from the wharf.

A black spar buoy lies on the S.E. edge of the two 3-fathoms patches
West of Darcy Island, in the southern entrance of the channel.

A rock, with 20 ft. over it, lies about 1 cable off the West side of Sidney
Island, with the beacon on Sidney Spit bearing N.W. by N. | N., distant
1^ mile.

ADDENDA. 9

A S-fatboms spit extends about 3 cables northward from the N.E. point
of James Island,

Sidney Spit has a conical white wooden beacon, 50 ft. high, on its N.W.
extreme. A spar buoy, painted in red and black bands, lies in 16 ft., on
the S.E. rocky patch off the N.W. end of Sidney Island.

Page 373.— Shute or Colbome Pauage. — A spit extends 400 ft. from low-
water mark off the West side of Knapp Island. The passage between
Knapp and Piers Islands is safe, having 5^ fathoms least water. Several
dangerous rocks lie in the passage westward of Coal Island. The narrowest
part of the channel is marked by two buoys, about 1 cable apart ; Cape
Keppel in one with Cowitohin Head, W. 3° S., leads through the pF.S8ago,
in 8 to 10 fathoms, lietween the buoys, and clear of all danger. In 1896,
this district was reported to be incorrectly shown on the chart published
by the British Hydrographio Office.

Page 375. — Admiral Island. — A red spar buoy lies near the S.W. edge of
Kelp Reef, off the S.W. coast, about 3 cables S.W. by S. from Entrance
Point.

Page 375. — Cowitohin Harbour. — A red spar buoy lies on the end of the
reef, on the East side of the entrance to MM Creek.

Page 376. — Osbom Bay. — A bUick spar buoy lies on a rock, just drying
at low water, eastward of Shoal Islands.

Page 377. — Bare Point Light — A fixed bright Wght, elevated 36 ft., and
visible 11 miles, is shown from a lantern on a white house 30 ft. high.

A rock, nearly awash at low water, lies 2 cables eastward of Yellow Point.

Page 378. — Grappler Beef is marked by a spar buoy, lying in 7 fathoms,
off the S.W. extreme.

Page 381. — Prevost Island Lighthouse. — On Portlock Point is a whuj
wooden tower, 48 ft. high, showing a, fixed light, elevated 72 ft., and visible
10 miles ; it shows bright, with a red sector over Enterprise Reef. In
foggy weather, a Dell, 300 yards S.E. of the lighthouse, is struck once
every 15 seconds.

Page 381.— ACTIVE VAS8.— Enterprise Reef dries about 18 inches at
low water, and on its western part is a white conical beacon, standing on
piles, and bearing two balls, rising 22 ft. above high water.
Page 382. — Gossip Island reef is marked by a black can biioy, in 5 fathoms,
Oeorgina Point Lighthouse, on the eastern side of the North entrance to
.\ctive Pass, is a square white building, 42 ft. high, showing a fixed bright
lif^ht, elevated 55 ft., and visible 12 miles northward, between S.W. ^ S.
and E. ^ N. In foggy weather, a Ilorn sounds a blast of 8 seconds in
every minute.

Page 384. — Oovemor Bock is marked by a conical black buoy, lying in 7
fathoms, off its eastern side.

Page 385. — Portier Pass should be avoided, owing to the numerous rocks
iu it. Romulus Rock, with 3J fathoms over it, lies on the South side of
North Pacific Addenda. 3

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tho wostorn entrance, 9 'jabloR K. hy S. g R. froni Cardalo Point. A
lO-ft. rook lies two-thirds of a caMo S.K. by S. J S, from Virago Kock. A
4-fathoinH nwk lies 3 cahl* 4 N.W. J N. from Tongue Point. A .HJ-fatlioms
rook lies 3{ cables ^.10. by B. ^ K. from C'anoo Islet centre, and u reef ex-
tends from it to the rock southward of ('anoe Islet.

rnije HH7. — False Narrows.— Tho channel has about .I fathoms at high
water, and is nmrkod by hiioi/s and beacons, but shoidd not be attompteil
without a thorough ac(|uaintance.

rages 390, 405.— Currents.— Off Juan do Fuoa Strait, and along tho
western coast of Vancouver Island, tho currents appear to depend to some
extent upon the force and direction of tho wind. In winter, tho prevailing
winds being between K.K. and S. VV., the tendency is to produce a northerly
set, and numerous instances have occurred of such a set.

The obb tide divides into two branches between ('aj)e Flattery and tho
Vancouver shore, one turning sharply to the southward around the caiw,
and the other sets to tho westward along tho Vancouver Island shore.
Tho flood sots invariably to the northward into all the sounds running into
the Vancouver coast.

Paje 392.— Fog.— See Addenda for page 324.

Paijes 393, 405.— CARMANAH Lighthouse, 2 miles W. by N. * N. fron>
lionilla Point, is a white wooden building, 4(i ft. high, showing a llashiiKj
britjht light, elevated 173 ft., and visible 19 miles. It shows three flashes,
separated by intervals of 15 seconds, and followed by a partial eclipse of
30 seconds.

In foggy weather, a Horn sounds a blast of fi seconds every half-minute.

A Siijnal Station is established at the lighthouse, connected with Victoria
by telepliono, for the use of which there is a taritV. In foggy weather, vessels
may conununicate with the keepers by whistle sounds, using the Morse or
Continental toltgraphic codes, and they will bo answered by a whistle.

A depot of provisions, and other necessaries, has been established at the
Iig!»tlu)use, for tho benefit of persons wrecked on the coast. Notice hoards
have boon erected along the coast between Capo Hoalo and Port San .luan,
giviiig information necessary for those in distress. As wrecks do not usually
break up rapidly on this coast, seamen are advised to stay by the ship as
long as possible, the loss of life on these occasions being nuiinly owing to
attempts to get ashoro, or from exposure afterwards.

Page 393. -Port San Juan has a small settloment at its head, with a
telephone station.

Page 394.— Sooke Harbour. — Tho fairway of the channel to the wharf on
the western shore is marked by pile beacons, three to starboard painted
red, and one to port painted black. About 1 cable S. by W. ^ \V. from the
latter is a dangerous rock, awash at low water, lying op(>o8ito to a whit(>
triangle fixed on a tree on tlio eastern shore, with 11 fathom in tlie narrow
channel between.

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ADDENDA.

Pdiji' 395.— Raoe laland Lighthoaie.— In fo^^y wetithcr, a ntuain whistles
will ^ivti four short blnsts, in uiiswor to a stoaiiiuij Higitiils, if the iiorthorn
|X)rtioii of Juan do Fiica Strait is frue from fo^, aa is of ton the uaso.

Ptuje 3UG. — William Head is tho sito of tiio QiKiKintine Station, and two
small /u-«!(/ red lujhts aro shown for tho ^^uidanoo of vi'ssi'ls coniinj; hithor
for inspuotion. Buoh vuhhuIh must procoed northward until thcso lights iiru
ahuam, and thon westward until tluiy are in lin»', to S. by \V. k W.,
defining thu limit of tliu (|uarantinu anchorage, whiuh is also dulined l>y
iiaou liook light being shut in by tho head.

Paije 398.— E8QUI HALT is connected with Victoria, 3J miles distant,
by a tramway. Tho dry dock is 4S0 ft. long, by (i.'i ft. wid»\ with 29 ft.
over thu sill at high springs. A slip will also take up vessels .'t'JO ft. long,
and drawing 32 ft., of 2,;">(K) tons weight. Ordinary repairs can be executed
for vessels and their machinery, ^loorings are laid down in Constance
('ovo. Water can bo obtained from a hydrant at the dock.

.\ ft-ft. rock lies near the South shore of I'ltunfuT Uni/, about 3 cables
S. I'j. by S. I S. from Dyke Point beacon, with a depth of 14 ft. between it
and tho North coast of Inskip Island.

I\t<je 399.— VICTORIA HARBOUR.— Berens Island Lig^ht is now occult-
«"«(/, eclipsed for 5 secomls once in every 20 seconds, and visible 10 miles;
it shows hritjlit, with a red sector over IJrotchy Ijt-df^i! between S. 31 Ji.
ami S. 3ti'' E. In foggy weather, a Hell is sounded in answer to vessels'
sigiuils.

Shuitl Point buoy has boon removed, and the spit is now marked by a
red pile beacon, on which a fixed red iujht is shown, visible 3 miles. Pin
liock, farther in, is marked by a similar Ackco'i, bearing a /ucc/ brnjht Vujht.

VICTORIA contained 1U,H41 inliabitants at the census in IKUI, but tiui
population now immbers upwards of 20,000, it having increased greatly in
iiiiportanco since the growth of railway and steam cotninunieation. The
railway is now open to Nanaimo, 7;i miles distant, and there is daily coin-
iiamication by steamer with Vancouver, tho terminus of the Canadian
I'iieifio Uailway. Tho outer wharf has a depth of 30 ft. alongside, and is
fiunished with cranes ami sheds. There are si'veral slij)s, for vessels up
to 1,000 tons weight, and ordinary repairsean be e.\ecuteil. Steamtugs can
bf iuid, if re(piired. The hospital will admit seumen.

lUotchij /,t;(/i/<'. — When strongest, the tidal stream sets towards this
clanger at a rate of about 3 knots an hour.

Directions. — Victoria to Vancoucer. — In clear weather, with y/oo*/ tide,
tilt; .Vmerican authorities reconnnttnd the following route, thu distancu
Iniiig shortest, water smoothest, and tide of the most assistance : —

i'.iiteri)riso. Mayor, and Daynos ('hannels, Sidney (Channel (passing
vststward of Moresby Island and tho islands southward of it); thenco
lliioiigh Swanson Chaimel and Aetivi I'ass, and across to Hurrard Inlet.

With the ebb tide, tho usual route is outside Trial Island to tho main
channel of llaro Strait, foL. ,'ing the latter to the (iulf of Georgia. This

v.' >

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V, . r
• I

K' 11

A %<

*■ ■•i-.l'

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ADDENDA.

route JH recoil) mended in thick weather, and also, at all times, to navigators
not familiar with the tides and daiif^ers of the narrower channels.

Homo of the fastest Bteaincrs, after passing outside Trial Island, and
partly through IJaro Strait, at ebb tide, stand up Bwanson ('haniiel and
through Active Pass.

Victoria to Nanaimo and Departure Bay. — With flood tide and clear
weather, pass through EnterpriR , iv ayor, Daynes, HwanKon, and Trinco-
nialio Channels, and Dodd Narrows. Uy this route the smooth water and
strong tide will be of great assistance. On the southward trip this route
should also bu followed when the tide is ebb.

With adverse tides the usual route is through the main channel of Haro
Strait and the Gulf of Georgia.

Page 402. — Fiddle Beef is marked by a conical white beacon, bearing a
staff and cage, elevated 60 ft. above high water.

Page 402.— DISCOVERT ISLAITD Lighthouie, on Sea Bird Point, the
East extreme, is a square white wooden tower, 47 ft. liiKh, showing a
fixed bright light, elevated 91 ft., and visible 15 miles seaward, between
N. 42" W. and S. HI" W. In foggy weather, a Horn sounds a blast of 8
seconds, with intervals of 1 minute.

A 9-ft. rock, marked by kelp, lies about 4 cables S.S.W. of Sea Bird
Point, and a l&-ft. rock lies 75 yards N.N.W. of the 'J-ft. rock, with 4
fathc-ms between.

Page 406. — Tides, &c.— See Addenda for page 390.

Soundings. — Kco Addenda for page 323.

Bonilla Point should not bo approached within 1 mile, as shoal ground
extends more than half a mile off it, with deep water near the edge of the
reef.

Cannanah Lighthouse. — Bee Addenda for page 393.

Page 406.— Pachena Bay.— Several rocks are reported to lie in the passage
between tieabird Islet and the eastern shore.

Page 407.— CAPE BEALE Lighthouse.— In May, 1898, the light is to
bo altered to show a red sector over the dangers, between about West
and N.N.W. A depot of provisions, &c., has been established here, for the
benefit of shipwrecked persons (see Addenda for page 393). There is
telephonic communication with Victoria, messages being transmitted at
tariff rates.

Bamfield Creek. — A 6-ft. rook lies nearly in mid-channel, about halfway
from the eiitrunce to the anchorage. A 3-ft. rock lies in the middle of the
narrow channel between Burls Island and Kance Island.

Ship Islet is now bare of trees.

Page 408. — Diana Island.— 2'orW Jiock has 1 to 2 ft. over it at high
water, and a 3-fathoms kelp patch lies about 100 yards eastward of it.
Self Point, the eastern extremity of llclhy Island, appears like a wooded
islet, and is an excellent mark at night.

ADDENDA.

PoffC 409.— Alberni Inlet — A rocky patch, dryiriK 3 to 4 ft. at low water,
lioB near the head of San Mateo Hay, The rock said to lie off Mutine

Point hafl been nearclied for in vain, hut an 8-ft. rock lies ahont I cahle off
Hlioro, northward of the point, at 6J cablua N.N.E. of the North point of
Turn Island.

Paije 410.— Stamp Harbour.— .SMwinas Hirer has 3 ft. leant water in its
entrance, doe|H>nin^ to 6 ft. within. The channel ia marked by sjiar buoys,
black to West, and red to East.

Pages 413-414.— BROKEN OROTTP.-Reveral punkon rocks have recently
been discovered in the channels anion^; these 'slands, and others may exist.

415.— Seshart Channel. — A rock, drying at very low tides, lies 1 cable
K. by N. J N. from the eastern extremity of Canoe Island, and another,
dryin({ 2 ft., lies 150 yards farther on. On the coast, opposite Canoe
Island, is Aiulerson's Wlutrf, 202 ft. long, reaching into 3 fathoms water.

Pf«/c 416.— WE8TEEN CHANNEL.— In 1HH7, />firtCo«« wore erected on
Hound Island and Castle Island, hut thoy have been blown down, and will
])robably not be replaced. A reef, breaking at low water, extends l'{

cable N. by W. from Channel Hock, A rock, awash at low water, lies

over 1 cable N. ^ W. from the North point of Oowlland Island.

Page 418. — Uoluelet Ann. — A 3|-fathoms rocky patch lies in Carolina
Channel, at IJ cable E. | N. from the islet on the S.W. side of Round
Island. A 5-ft. pinnacle rock lies nearly 100 yards off the South entrance
point of Stewart Hay, and 41 cables S.E. \ E. from Native Islet. Another
.O-ft. rock lies 4J cables S.E. by 8. J S. from Native Islet. A rock, drying
2 to 3 ft., lies 5J cables S.E. J 8. from Native Islet. A 2j|-fathom8 rock
lies 3 cables N. ft E. from the wharf in the bay on the South side of
Ucluelet Arm entrance.

I\uje 419. — Sutton Hocks, with 7 to 10 ft. least water, and 4 fathoms
close around, lie 2 cables S.E. ^ I'L from the S.E. extreme of Channel Islet,
uiid a sjHir buoy, painted in red and black bands, lies on the southern rock.

Page 420.— CLAYOQUOT SOUND.— A breaking rock lies about half a
mile W. by S. from the summit of Bare Island, and another lies about 2^
cables eastward of Sea Otter Bock.

Page 423. — An 8-ft. rock, marked by a red spar buoy, lies northward of
the islets at the eastern end of Hrowning Passable, Vessels must pass to
the northward of it, and of a black can buoy at the N.E. extremity of the
spit extending northward from Slubbs Island.

Page 4.39.— Kyuquot Sound.- C/irtwucZ Hock dries 8 ft. at low water, and
to the S.E. of it is a rock drying 2 feet.

Page 441. — C^an-niniok Harbour affords one of the best anchorages on
tlio West coast of Vancouver Island, and is easy of approach. Village or
Kyidiiud Islaiul has a post-office and a church, and tiiere is a large lioman
Catholic chapel on the island next eastward of Village Island. The rock
lying in the entrance has G ft, over it at low water, with deep water close

' ■>

ADDENDA.

SB I ,

around ; it is not marked by kelp, and lies over 6 cables W.N.W. of
Channel Rock, with the S.E. extreme of (iranite Inland bearing S.W. ^ S.

Paijes 441-442.— Oa-ou-Kinsh Inlet — Fniruny Hock, awash at low water,
lies 10^ cables S.W. j^ W. from the Hummit of Clara Inlet. The leading
mark, the entrance of the inlet bearing N.N.E., is therefore not correct.

Pcuje 443.— Naaparti'Inlet. — Two rocks, marked by kelp, lie in the fair-
way S.E. of lint hland ; the inner one lies about 1 cable ofif the island,
and the outer one, of 3 fathoms, lies 2^ cables S.E. by S. ^ S. from the
East extreme of the island.

Pnijc 449. — Quatflino Sound. — Mnmlay Shoal is said to have less than 4
fathoms over it. Near Ilecatc Cove is a Norwegian settlement, with a

store and post-oiTice, and the wharf reaches into 3 fathoms at low water.

Paije 454.— BRITISH COLUMBIA contained 98,173 inhabitants at the
census in 1891, and its area is now estimated at 383,300 square miles,
including Vancouver Island, &c. Victoria is the capital. The northern
part of the coast is almost destitute of settlers, except for a few camps of
timber cutters. The seas abound with excellent fish, and at the river
mouths are extensive salmon fisheries and canneries. The South part of
Vancouver Island and the Fraser River delta are suitable for the cultivation
of barley, oats, and hops, but the clinmte is too cool and wet for the pro-
duction of grain in the districts bordering on the ocean. In the more
northerly parts not even potatos can be grown.

Pago 457.— STIIAIT of 6E0BOIA.— Vessels bound from New West-
minster or Vancouver to Nanaimo, with a strong head wind and flood
tide, usually steam through Portier Pass (see Addenda for page 385), and
then to the northward by the inner passages. With a light or fair wind,
thoy pass northward of Gabriola Island. '

Page 459.— ROBERTS BANK is marked by two pile beacons on its
western part, each b'ing surmounted by a conical framework, reaching 12
feet above high water. The North Sniul Head beacon stands near low-
water mark, at 10^ cables S. A E. from the Sand Head lighthouse, and there
is 14 fathoms water at less than 2 cables westward of it ; the other stands
on the S.W. edge of the w&nk, at 3^ miles S.E. i E. from the lighthouse.

Sturgeon Bank is also marked by two black pile beacons, each bearing a
cross, lying 4 miles and 7^ miles to N.N.W. of the lighthouse. They are
liable to be washed away.

Pages 459-464.— FRASER RIVER.— Som</i Channel, or Canoe Pass,
with 4 to 8 ft. water in it, can only be used by small vessels, with local
knowledge. Its entrance is close southward of the southern beacon on
Roberts Bank, within which the channel is marked by eight single pile
beacons.

Page 462. — Sand Head Lighthouse, on the S.W. part of Sturgeon Bank,
is in lat. 49'' 5' N. The Fog Hell is struck once every 20 seconds. At

7i cables S.W. by W. from the lighthouse, in 9 ft. water, is a black pile
beacon, bearing a ball 6 ft. in diameter, rising 12 ft. above high water. At

ADDENDA.

1 cablo West of it tho depth is 13 futlioins, increasing rapidly to 20 and 30
futhoiiis.

In 1805, tho old entrance channel, which trended S.S.W. from Garry
Point, was stated to have entirely closed up. The entrance of the present
channel h I'i mile north-westward of the li({hthouse, and works are in
progress to ensure tlie permanency of it, but tho aid of a pilot is necessary
for strangoi-s. The tree on Garry Point has disappeared ; it is proposed to
erect a. heacon here.

liiioi/s. — A red Dell Uuoij, surmounted by a staff and ball, 16 ft. high,
lies in deep water, about half a mile S.W. of the entrance, which is marked
by two hiiui/s: one, painted red, lies about IJ mile N.W. | N. from the
lighthouse, and the other, painted black, lies about 2 cables farther north-
ward. Within these the channel is marked by red buoys to starboard, and
black buoys to port, in entering. A beacon stands on tho East side of
Westham Lilatul, 2J miles within Garry Point, and two spar buoys mark
Woodward Sluwjh, eastward of the beacon.

The least depth at low water, up to New Westminster, is 9 ft., and 17
to 19 ft. at high wpter springs, about 5^ miles within the entrance, or 1
mile within Garry Point. The following directions were issued in lb95,
but must be used with caution, as changes may occur.

Page 463. — Directions. — Having made out the Sand Head lighthouse,
and the bell buoy, steer to pass between the outer buoys, and then to leave
tlie black buoys within close on the port hand, and the red buoys close on
the starboard hand, up to Garry Point. Keep within 1 cable of that point,
and of the shore south-eastward, nearly as far as English's cannery, which
is about 9 cables south-eastward of Garry Point. Then bring that cannery
to bear N.N.W. astern, and with it on that bearing cross over to the
Westham Island bank, keeping about 1 cable off up to the beacon on that
island. Thence alter course to the eastward, and pass between the two
spar buoys at the entrance of Woodward Slough. Steer in mid-channel,
rather on the northern side of the river, through Woodward Slough and
Gravesend Beach ; thence southward of Annacis Island, keeping towards
the South shore through the first bend, then in mid-channel to New West-
minster, where vessels lie moored, in a depth of 6^ to 7 fathoms, sand
and mud.

Tides. — The time of high water is 2 or 3 hours later at New Westminster
than at the entrance of the river. In September, 1890, the ebb ran 3 to 4
knots, flood 1 to 1 J knot, the water being quite fresh.

NEW WESTMINSTEK contained G,641 inhabitants at the census in
1H91. It is connected with the Canadian PaciQc Railway, and on the
opposite side of the river is Liverpool, which is connected by railway with
Seattle.

PoAje 464. — North Fork, the northernmost approach to Fraser Biver, is
nearly dry at low water, and only navigable by small craft, with local
knowledge. It is marked by single pile beacons, the outermost being in
lat. 49° 14' N., long. 123° 13f W., outside which the channel is lost in the
sands of Sturgeon Bank. .

\ [■■

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■ '" t ■ . ■ •■•.•, .■ fitlr

ADDENDA.

• 1

Pnyc 4Gr>.— BUSBARD INLET.— Atkiiuon Point LighthoaM is 41 ft.

hi|{h ; the li^lit ih uluvutod % ft., and in olmcured whrn buaritiK oantwiird
of N. 7'2' K. In fo^^^y woatlior, a Jlorn Hounda a blaiit of 8 sucondH,
Boparatcd by intorvaU of 1 niinuto.

Spanish Hank. — A pile beacon, Hurinounted by a red hall, Htands on tho
northom od^u. Thoro \h H fatlionia at KM) yards northward of it.

i'dr/cA 4(iO, 467. — Firit Narrows liave eddies when tlio tidal streams are
ninnin|{ strongly, nocessitating caution, oHpcciaily with vessels of dovp
draught. Two ])ile beacons inari< the edge of the dryinj^ bank on the North
side, about 1 mile apart; they are painted black, and surmounted by a white
cone, 10 ft. high, base upwards. About midway between these l)oaoons
are two others, one on each side of the water aupply pipe which hero
croHses the Narrows.

Brockton Point Light — On the mast at the Signal Station is shown a
fixed light, elevated 51 ft., and visible H miles; it ia britjht, with a red
sector of 30' over liurnaby Shoal, between N. 83° E. and S. 6T E. In
foggy weather, a Jiell is stnick once every 25 seconds.

Partbia Shoal, with 21 ft. least water, is 3^ cables in extent, EahI and
West, within the 5-fatboin8 line, and the eastern edge lies 2} cables
N.W. i W. from the eastern extreme of Brockton Point. Two black mast
beacons, 30 ft. high, have been erected on Brockton Point, to lead clear
South of this danger, in not loss than 5^ fathoms. In line they bear
E. by S. ^ S., 65 yards apart. Two mast beacons, each bearing a white
drum, stand on tie South shore, to show its eastern and western limits.

liurnalyy Sluml ia {narked by a red spar buoy, in 12 ft., on its N.E. part.

Tides. — Prom observations at Vancouver, in April, May, and June, it was
found to be high water, on full and change, at T**, and the rise 11 feet.
The streams turn at high and low water by the shore. There is a largo
diurnal inequality. In summer, the higher tides occur at night, and in
winter during the day.

Pilots. — A small pilot boat cruises off tho entrance to Burrard Inlet, but
sometinieB anchors near Spanish Bank, or in Skunk Cove, half a mile east-
ward of Atkinson Point.

VANCOUVER is now a considerable town, containing 13,685 inhabitants
at tho census in 185)1, increased to over 20,000 at the present time, and
is rapidly growing in importance. Tho Canadian Pacific Railway was
completed in 1887, and there are now linos of steamers running to China
and Japan, Australia, Alaska, and tho various coast ports. It is calculated
that by this route the distance from England to Yokohama is shorter by
1,026 miles than by way of San Francisco. It carries on a large timber
trade, having extensive sawmills. The railway wharves have depths of 24
to 2G ft. alongside at low water. Provisions and supplies are plentiful,
including coal and water, the latter being obtained from Capilano Creek,
on the North shore of the First Narrows, the pipe passing across on the
bottom. At present there are no facilities for docking, but vessels can ho
beached on the North side of the harbour, for painting, &c. Steamtugs
can be had, if required.

ADDKNDA.

Page 468. — OabrioU Reeft. — Tho Imacon ha« l>oon doHtroynd, aiul will
not bo roplocixl. The btutij lyiii^ ofT tho N.B. oiul Im a black can, witli HtafT
and nqtuire caije.

Page 409. — Entrance Island Light now hIiows nul ovur Gabrinla UocfR,
btitwuoii Uast and S. 83" E. (7"). In fo^t^y weather, a lloiii aoundH a blast
of H seconds, with intervals of 45 fleconds.

A reil can huoij lies in 9 fathoms, about 1 cable south-naRtward of tho
Bouth end of tho rooky led^o H.S.K. of LiijhthoHse or Snake Island,

PaijPH 470-471.— NAVAIMO now contains al>out 5,000 inhabitants, and
is ooiuieotod with Victoria, 73 miles distant, by railway, and with Vancouver
and other coast ports by regular lines of steamers. About 320,000 tons of
coal were raised hero in IHUO. A wharf extends lAO yards from tho western
part of (iallows Point, into 4 fathoms water, and other wharves have been
oonstruoted, with 2H ft. alongside at low water. Tho prison, on tho wostern
side of Newcastle Island passage, is a conspicuous building. IVesh meat
and stores may bo obtained here, and water is abundant and good. Snuill
repairs could bo executed, and vessels r le safely Iwachod, if necessary.
Seamen are admitted into the hospital. Oare is no^-rssary in entering the
harbour, as tho tidal streams 'letiiues run strongly. Pilotage is com-
pulsory. VesBola lie at anchor ofT the town in A fathoms.

Lights. — On tho South side of the entrance channel, about 2 cables
S.S.K. from Gallows Point, is a black pile beacon, on which is shown a
Jised red light, elevated 10 ft., and visible 2 miles, but it may nut bo possible
to exhibit it in bad weather.

On the northern end of Middle Itank is a black pile beacon, l)earing a
Jixcd briijht light, elevated H ft., and visible 2 miles.

Beacon Uock is now marked by a black stono beacon, bearing a staff and
ball, rising 10 ft. above high water. Nicol Hock, I J cublo lO.S.E. from

Beacon Hock, has been dredged to a depth of 10 ft. at low water ; a tide-
guago stands on piles close southward of it.

Buoyage. — A scjuare flat red buoy, with staff and ball, lies on the North
side of the entrance, at 1^ cable S.E. by S. from Gallows Point. A

bUick buoy, with staff and triamjle, lies on the South side of the harbour,
at 2} cables S. | W. from Gallows Point. A red buoy, with staff and

ball, lies on the South side of Satellite lice/, 3 cables W. by S. i S. from
(iallows Point. A black buoy, bearing a staff only, lies on tho South side
of South Chamiel, 4 cables S. by W. J W. from Gallows Point, and a
dolphin stands about 1 cable to the S.VV. of it.

A red buoy, with staff and ball, lies to the S.E. of Middle Hank, over 4
cables S.W. by S. from Gallows Point, and a red spar buoy lies three-
tenths of a cable West of it. A black buoy lies on the rock eight-tenth i
of a cable N.VV. of Beacon Bock. A black buoy, with staff and triamjle,
lies on the West side of the harbour, 2i^ cables N.W. ^ N. from Beacon
Bock.

North Pacific Addenda. . .4

t.*-!

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•\h

.Ui I

ADDKNDA.

/Vif/r.vl71-172.— DEPAETURE BAY.- Tho coal-mining town of Welli>Kj-
ton is oonnootod with Nnnaimo by railway, ft"'! "ow containn about 2,(XX)
inhabitants. In IH!M>, nearly .340,(XX) tons of ooal wcro raised hero. Capt.
WaUjnii., of tlio government steamer l,>u<u{r<i, states that the passage to
and from tiie wliarvt>s. between Double Island and Black Kocks, is perfectly
safe and free from danger. The passaj^o northward of Black Rocks and
Jesse Island is also j^ood and safe, care bein^ taken to avoid a 2-fathomH
patch lying about 100 yards eastward of the eastermnost IMack Uock.
Peptlis of 7 and S fathoms are found close along the North shore of l)o\d)lo
Island aiul .Jesse Island. At I cable ofT the Hast end of the oastennuost
Double Island is a depth of 2 fathoms, marked by kelp.

A rock, with 2 ft. over it at low wat«'r, and stcep-to, lies between .Tosso
Island and Horsewell HIulT, with the latter bearing N. by W. J W., and
the western bluff of .1 esse Island S.W. by S.

Buoyage. -r/( I r^c Rock, nearly in the centre of Inner Chaimol, is marked
by a block .s/.vi;' buoy on its eastern edge. Another nuirks the oastorn side
of the entraMe<> of Imuir Channel.

Jn 18%, tiu! following buoys were stated to exist; — A red buoy, with
ntalT aiul hall, marking the reef olT Newcastle Island, on the S.l'i. side of
the bay. A red c<ui buoy on the edge of the shoal on the North shore,

inside Black liocks. A block con buoy eastward of the reef off .losso

Island. ,\ red con buoy off Horsewell Bluff reef. A blark spar buoy

on tlio South side of West Rocks.

Po(jc 47.1. — Northumberland Channel— /''n/.v/' Nnrivvs are intricate and
dangerous, with a depth of about '.i fathoms at high water. Thu channel
is marked by three single pile beacons, aiul three spar buoi/s.

Poijc 174.— Nanooce Harbour. -.\ l(»-ft. rook lies in th.n entrance, 2 J
cables N. j V,. from Mnlrance Rock. A rj-fathoms rock lies over IJ cable
E. by N. J N. from the iO-ft. rock.

Paiie 47.0.- Qualioum River.— .\ black can hiioii lies in 5 fathoms, about
one-third of a mile northward of the entrance.

i*<T(/c 47r». YELLOW ISLAND Lighthouse is a square white wooden
building, .V) ft. high, standing on the sui nit, and showing n, JloshiiKj
briijht light, elevated 120 ft., and v'sible J7 miles: a group of three Jiaxlics,
with intervals of 1.0 secoi\ds between tiiem, followed by an interval of .30
seconds. The light is visible in all directions, except where obscured by
trees and the high land of Denman and Hornby Islands.

To clear Mo pie lionk, the light should not bo brought to bear northward
of B. by N. i N., and, when passing Hornby Island, the light bearing S.W.
loads clear of th.-' reefs southward and eastward of that island. The passago
between Yellow Island and Denman Island hap only 2 ft. water in it.

Page 476.— -BAYNE8 SOUND.— A pile beacon stands in 18 ft. water, on
the northern edge of tlic bank extending off Maple Point; it is surmounted
by two white discs, 7 ft. in »liaineter, rising 1(> ft. above high water.

Kel}) Jie.cf, off lieef JUii(f', on the eastern side of the entrance, is niarked

ADDKNDA.

by a red nun hiioif, in 6 fathoniH, IJ milo W. by S. from Yollow Island
li^hthouHu; an<l another lies in li fathoniH, off tho West spit, tliroo-quartci-H
of a mile farthor to W. by S.

Deep Bay. — In 1H',)3, tho 11.8. vohhoI Alhatwas anchored in lOJ fathoms,
Hhuttinf^ out Yollow Island light by thu clump of truos next to tho main
body of trees on Maple Point.

['(njr 477. — Fanny Bay. — A pile honcon stands in I'J ft., on tho outer
extremity of Ihutc Flat ; it is similar to that on Maple Point (see page IH),

A red spar buoij lies in 3^ fathoms, on tho end of the ruef extending oft'
Villiujc Point.

Union Bay is about 4J miles to tho N.W. of Fanny Bay, on the western
side of the sound, and just southward of I'liion Spit, whioli is marked by
a pile beacon, bearing a disc, in 18 ft. water, on its extremity. There are
coal stores at Union Hay, eomuHited with tho mines by railway, and tho
principal wharf reaches into G fathoms at low water, where vessels t)f any
six'.e can lie alongside. There is good anchorage in 10 or 1 1 fathoms, mud,
off the South end of tho wharf. A few fresh supplies could be obtained.

Vatjes 47(», 477. - Kelp Bar is now marked by two single red pile hcocons,
in 3^ fathoms, each bearing a triamjli', rising <,) ft. above high water. Tlioy
are 533 yards apart, at tho I'^ast and West limits of the shoalest ground,
and by passing southward of them, on a S. by \V. ^ W. or N. by K. J K,
oourso, a vessel will cross the bar in a least depth of I'i ft. at low water.
Tho White lieach leading marks, when in line, appear like a St. Andrew's
cross, and lead in tho same depth southward of the beacons.

In 1HI)5, it was reported that thoro was much shoalor water, at half a
mile S. by V,. J M. from tho wcstorn bar beacon, than shown on the chart,
depths of ".) to IT) ft. being found.

I\uje 47M. — Port Augfusta. — A few fresh supplies may be obtained at tho
villago of Coiiiox. On tho S.W. extremity of Goose Spit is a wooden
pyramid hearon, 3'J ft. high, painted white above and black below. A single
bliick pile beacon, bearing a luill, stands in 15 ft. water, near tho N.E. ox-
tremity of tho ffat extending from (r'nr.w/ Point.

Paije 480.— Kuhushan Point is very low at its extremity, tho trees being
iKH) yards within.

Poije 480. — Cape Mudge. -The first of tlie flood stream sets strongly to
tlio eastward, over tho shoal ground soulii-oJistward of the oape.

Pai'<^ 481. — Sisters Rooks, to tlie R.W. of 'laaqueti Island, are three in
number, and on the eastern and largest stands a black wooden pyramid
Ixuicon, 42 ft. high.

I\ujcs 48'2-483, -Shoal Channel. — Two rocks, drying 3 ft. at low water,
lie on tho West side of the ohannol, tlie northern one being nearly 3 cablus
I'i. \ 8. from tho extremity of the wharf at Ciibson's Landing.

Paijes 4**'^-484. — liock Point is tho point next northward of (Jower Point,
and a boulder reef extends half a mile off shore just eastward of it. A

lock, drying ut low water, lieu 'JJ cables olV sliore, bearing N.E. ^ N. from

t,'

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3<-;'

ii I

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i H v»ii

ADDENDA.

iiji

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f i

^\llite Ltlet. A similar rock lies 2 cables off shore, bearing N.W. from
the rock off the North end of the western Trail Islet. A shoal extends

Scabies off Welcome Point, the rounded point E.N.E. of Merry Island.

Welcome P(tss is the channel between Merry and Thormanby Islands.
A rock, drying at very low springs, is said to lie in the fairway, about 8
cables N.E. of J^aro Islet, and others may exist.

Pof/c 484. — Texad% Island. — Some deposits of gold, silver, and copper
ore are worked on the East coast.

Pflf/c 485.— MALASPIVA STRAIT.— Buccaneer Bay, formed between
the northern ends of the two Thormanhy Islands, affords good sheltered
anchorage at its head, in 15 fathoms. Shoal water extends half a mile
northward from both islands, and on the East side of the entrance is
Tattcnhnm Ledge, with a rock drying at low water on its S.W. side, about
3^ cables N.W. by W. from Derby Point.

Piuje 486. — Pender Harbour. — Several rocks have recently been found in
the approaches, as shown on the chart.

Pttije 487. — Two rocks, of 3 and 4 fathoms, lie about 2 miles E.S.E. of
Cape Cockburn. Opposite the 3-fathoms or northern rock, which is 1^ mile
off shore, is a large white cross on a conspicuous boulder, which in lino
with a whitewashed tree trunk would lead over it.

Ptu/cs 487-488.— Harwood Island.- At 1 mile W.S.W. of the South end
is Bare Islet, 30 ft. high. On the mainland, to the N.E. of Harwood Island,
is the settlement named Sliavimon.

Poije 488. — Sayary Island. — A reef, half a mile in extent, W.N.W. and
E.S.E., partly drying at low water, is reported to lie about 3 miles S. ^ W.
from the S.E. extreme of the island. All the area within a line from Bare
Islet towards the West point of Savary Island is said to be foul.

P(i(jc 488. — Lund is a settlement, with a post-office, on the coast south-
eastward of lia{i(jed fslands, in lat. 49" 59' N.

Page 488. — Hernando Island. — A dangerous small rook, awash at low
water, lies N. ^ W. from the bluff of Hidalgo Point, on the North side of
the island, with no safe passage between.

Poiics 490-491.— CORTES ISLAND.— A ml can buoy lies in 14^ fathoms,
off the S.W. end of the reef extending from lieef Point, In 1895, this
dangerous reef was said to extend farther than shown on the chart.
Matison Hay, eastward of Mary Island, is clear of danger, and has a store
and post-otKce at its head. The narrow channel between the North end of
Mai'y Island and the shore has a small rock nearly in mid-channel, marked
by a pole beacon.

Wlialeton Hay, on the West coast of Cortes Island, about 1 mile north-
ward of Mary Island, affords good anchorage for small vessels in 5 fathoms,
northward of a pole beacon on a rock near the head of the bay, on which a
iujht is shown when the mail steamer is expected. Here is a small settle-
ment, with a wharf and post-office. In the middle of the entrance is a small
rock, with 8 ft. over it, and steep-to.

Page i
tidal ouri

Warsp
off the W(
between ]

Paife 4
GovernuK
channels (
occurring
and last q
with any (
Therul(
inland oha
and two Ic
in or out.
to the time
thus ; — It i
of the large
the day in
also in Nov
low water i
the stream
On four
May and Ji
reason to bf
for at least
Narrows, tl:
it arrives ofl
southward,
dangerous w
and also ab
Point. Wit
the South ui
through the
water swirlii
ship off the s
The positii
running, and
Narrows.

There is no
time, slack w
when the tidt
Dircctions.-
Ll)b or flood t
Maud Island
tlie last of the
tlie main curn

ADDENDA.

Piiijc 495. — Qowlland Harbaar. — Rxei-cise caution in entering, as the
tidal currents run swiftly between Sheep and Qowlland Islands.

Warspitc Hock, a dangerous pinnacle with only 4 ft water over it, lies
off the western shore, at IJ cable N.E. of Middle Point, nearly midway
between Race and Orange Points.

Piufc 496.— SETMOUB NABROWS.— Tides.— In 1894, the Canadian
Government issued the following remarks : — The tides in the inland
channels of British Columbia are affected by the winds, the highest tides
occurring at certain times when neap tides are expected, at about the first
and last quarters of the moon, so that no tide table can be depended upon
with any degree of accuracy.

The rule governing the tides of the Pacific coast is applicable to all the
inland channels of British Columbia ; that is, there are usually two high
and two low waters in each day, locally termed the long and the short run
in or out. Owing to this peculiarity some difference of opinion exists as
to the time of high water at Seymour Narrows, which may be explained
thus : — It is high water, on full and change, of the short flood at 3**, and
of the large or long flood at from 4'' to 5^''. Usually it is high water during
the day in winter, and at night in summer. During May, June, and July,
also in November, December, and January, there is only one real high and
low water in each day, the water rising by the shore, while in the channels
the stream runs ebb.

On four occasions in Seymour Narrows, at about full and change, in
May and June, the water was observed to be perfectly still, and there is
reason to believe that the slacks of the highest tide at this season continue
for at least 30 minutes. As the time of high water approaches in Seymour
Narrows, the flood tide runs comparatively smoothly from the North until
it arrives off Maud Island, when the stream, deflected by the land to the
southward, turns to the S.E., causing, unless close to slack water, most
dangerous whirlpools and overfalls near the South shore of Maud Island,
and also about 1^ mile farther on, near mid-stream, opposite to Race
Point. With the ebb tide the stream runs compai'atively smoothly from
the South until again off Maud Island, where it turns to the northward
through the Narrows, and becomes a rapid and dangerous race, with the
water swirling in all directions. The tendency of the current is to keep a
ship off the shore when passing through the Narrows.

The position of Hippie liock will always be seen when the current is
running, and is easily avoided by keeping along the eastern shore of the
Narrows.

There is no danger in passing through Seymour Narrows at the proper
time, slack water or near thereto, but no vessel should attempt to pass
when the tide is running strong.

Directiom. — When going through the Nai-rows, bound North or South,
i;l)b or flood tide, keep along the eastern shore, passing the S.W. point of
Miiud Island about 200 yards distant. When bound South, and going with
till! last of the flood, after passing the S.W. point of Maud Island, follow
tlie main current well over to the South shore before turning eastward, and

111 ; ■# :

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c; -^ ■ ■'■ ^ ■.■'^ u A

:r —

ADDKNDA.

'H:

! ,

■I

i 1

do not uttoinpt to go round Maud iHluntl closely, as jiint I'laKt of iIiIh point,
on llui IliHxl tido, ai'O tho dangorouH wliirlpoolH pruviouHly niontiontul.

Plumper Bay has a rocky l4-ft. Hhoal near tho edge of the shoal ground
in itH S.K. part.

Hole in the Walt, or Okishollow Channel, \« tho narrow paHnago northward
of ihunite I'oint, which tliunco oxtcndn aoroHH to tho lOant coast of Vahhw
Island, one branch debouching opixisite the ontranco of ituto Inlet, antl
another runs into iloskyn Inlet at Surge Narrows. It is frequented oidy
by small steaniers for lumber.

I'lKje 4i)7. Cardero Channel. — Rome rocks have recently boon found in
this channel, as shown on the chart.

PiKjc 4<J7.~ Chatham Point. - A rock, with about 15 ft, over it, is reiwrted
to lie about 2 cables N.l'i. ^ N. from Heaver Uock.

I'mjo W.).- -Johnstone Strait— In April, 1H9H, the ship Uichard III.,
drawing 11)^ ft., was reported to have struck a rock on /i'i/»/>/i' Shoal.

/'(r;/r! 502. -Gilford Island. In IHi)l,arock, «lrying at low water, was
reported to lie about I^ cable W.N.W. of While Vvint, on the N.W, coast,
in lat. 50" 40J' N., long. I'JG" '2H§' W.

I'aije 504. Nimpkish River. A ml spar hiioi/ lies in 3 fathoms, on the
northern extreme of the bank.

Port McNeill. -.\ red spar huoij lies in 5fathon)s, oiT the eastern extreme
of Ledge Point reef.

Vaije 50(5. Beaver Harbour. — Fort liupert has been abandoned by tho
Hudson Hay (bmpany, who have withdrawn their trading station here.
A 5-ft. rock lies I -j cable 10. by H. \ H. from the northern point of Round
Island, and at 100 yards H.H.W. of this rock is another with 12 ft. over it.

P(»</<!517.— SMITH SOUND. -In IH07, it was announced that a steamer
had struck on a G-ft. rock in the channel between (/(tntral and Koimd
Islands, supposed to be on the eastern extremity of a reef extoMding 4
cables IC. N.l'i. from (kuilral Island.

Smith Inlet is reported by (!apt. .1. T. Walbr'M, of the steamer Danube,
to have deep water, an«l no known dangers within. On the southern side
of the enlraiKui are Hound and Dot Islands, both wooded. About G miles
up, on the southern shore, is Cape Anne, eastward of which is Qnashela
Hay, visited by Vancouver, which is said to alTord Ck>ntmed but safe anchor-
age in its southern bight, in 22 fathoms. \ rock, drying at low water,
lies 1 cable K. by N. ^ N. fron> Cape Arme. On the northern shore, oppo-
site Cape Anne, is a land-slide, ami a tiiickly- wooded point facing west-
ward, which has the appearance of a cone from a vessel going up the inlel.
Tho vessels of the Hudson I3ay Company anchor in 45 fathoms, rocky
bottom, with the stern warped to trees, otl' the entrance of an iidot l^f mile
eastward of Cape Anne ; this anchorage is bad. A salmon cannery is
situated about half a mile up the inlet, from which uuows bring cargo down
to vessels at the entrance.

f'i

APnRNDA.

l\uifs 517-r»IH. — Riven Inlet.- A i'nuky4-fathoinn pntch, with 20 fathoiiifi
oloHo arouiul, lios in tho Houtliorn oiitninoo, at H caUloH H.W. j^ \V. from
Zoro liuuk. AcoordiiiK to (<apt. J. T. \Vall>raii, tho iith^t niiiH ahout I'J
iiiiltm ill a iioi-tht«rly direction, and thiiii 10 iiiilus iiorth-oaHtwai'd to thn
iiiotith of tho iiiv(>r Waiiiiook. In tho ontranco lies /ien> Ituclc, of whito
liniostoiu), 15 to 'JO ft. hiKh. Illack Hock in low and Hinooth, and M or 4 ft.
hi^li, witii foul f{roiind hotwoon it and tho inlaiid tothonortliward. VoshoIh
Hlioiiid pasH north-woatward of /oro Hook, and Houth-oiVHtwai'd of Mlack
iiook, ahout I cahlo oil' oach, in du**p wator.

Schoofier PtiHsinjf, tho ontranco to which in on tho wostorn hIioio, ahout
iO iiiiloH up tho inlot, and woHtward of Walhran iHland, IniH (loop wator,
with low and doiiHoly-woodod hIioioh. It hiiH a hroadth of ahout 2 cahlon,
and iu fro(|Uontly UHod hy tho lludHon May Coinpany'H KtcaniciH, hut it Ih
not Hiiitahlo for vohaoIh nioro than 210 ft. lon^. Thoro ih a Hunkon rook at
tho woHtorn ontranco of tho paHHa^o, to avoid which Hharp tiirnnaro iiocoh-
Hary ; and tho northorn shoro should ho kopt very cIoho on hoard.

(iood anohoraf{o in roportod in tho north-woHtorn hi^ht, in 10 to 20
fathoiiiH, whoro Uivoi'H Inlot turnu to tho oatttward. Wdiinock caniiory in
on tho northorn Hlioro, ahout 2 iiiiloH eastward of tluH hi^ht. At tho mouth
of tho /k'(iT»- Wannock isthovillano of Oweekayno, ivnl a Haw-mill, oannory,
and a woodoii church aro on tho South «ido. Tho wator is too dtiop for
anchora^'o olTOwookayno. Tho leant wator on tho har of tho Waiinook is
t> ft, at low wator ahroast tho church. Thoro is a wharf at tho saw-mill,
with a depth of 12 ft. alongside. A mail stcamor calls at tho ostahlish-
monts in Uivors Inlot oiico a month.

/Vjf/c ."ill). — Fitzhugh Sound. —.S'rrdu Hock is a dangerous rocky patch,
not marked hy kelp, lyin^ ahout half a inilo to tho K.IO. of Atldciifirookc
I'oint: it is ahout 2^ cahlos in extent, K. by S. and W. hy N., with 7 to
12 ft. over it.

/'(K/cv .')22-.'523. — Lama Pa»sage — 1 I'd //);•((» Hock, with 12 ft. over it, and
sti'(\p-to, lios 2jj cahlos I'i. hy S. j[ K, from tho S.IO. extroino of Pointer
Island, on tho South side of tho ontranco. .\ rock awash lios oloso to

the northorn shoro, hoariiij^ ahout W. hy N. from Scrpont I'oint.

McLaughlin Bay.- Tho rock roj d to lit) ahout (5 cahlos N.N.VV. of
Niipior Point has boon stMirchod for ir. vain.

Piuje 522. — Dean Canal has tho village (^f Kimsqiiit at its hoad, at 2
iniloH ahovo which tho inlot is oontractod to ahout 1 milo in width hy two
low spits, and hoyond those, on tho Mast shoro, is a hay, whoro vessels may
lio in -lO fathoms, olT a pohhiy heach.

Pages 528-529.— Kynumpt Harbour.— Tho lO-ft. rock reported to lie 2
{.'m\)\vh S.W. of how Island, soarchod for unHiiccoflfifully hy the onicors of
11. M.S. Heroine, in IHH.'), was found, in IHi)5, to lie more tluin 2 cahlos
S.W. hy W. { W. from tho K.H. oxtromo of how Island, and has (5 ft. over
il at low wator.

Ill 181)1, a .s/xrr l>no>i, painted in red and hlackluuids, was placed in 9 ft..

V.*, V. '^ ' Ml

ADDENDA.

iiil

close westward of the shoalest part of Dull Patch, but a later aooount
states that it lies in 2^ fathoms, on the S.H. side. In 1893, the steamer
Alki, drawing 17 ft., struck at low water on a rock said to lie a short
distance northward of Dall Patch.

rmjes .535-530.— OBENVILLE CHANNEL.— In 185)7, Capt. J. T. Wal-
bran, of the steamer Quadra, reported that for 4 miles north-westward of
Devonport Point the western shore is fronted by foul ground to about 1
cable off, or less. The eastern shore ia Irald. He also states that from
Klewnugget northward the eastern shore is not accurately charted, and
several islands and openings are not shown. A dangerous timber snag
was also found in a depth of IG fathoms, at 2 miles R. by S. j S. from the
South end of Bloxham Island.

Page 540. — Port Essington has thi-ee dangerous sunken rocks in and near
the fairway. The northern one, drying 2 ft. at low water, lies nearly 2^
miles N.E. by N. from V'eitch Point, with the northern point of Village
Island, at the West side of Ecstall River entrance, bearing S.E. | E. The
central and most dangerous rock dries I foot, nearly 2f miles N.E. ^ N.
from Veitch Point, and is marked by a Mack spar biioif, lying on the edge
of the shoal ground northward of Village Island. The southern rock,
awash at low water, lies nearly 2J miles N.E. of Veitch Point. The settle-
ment of Port Essington is on the West side of Ecstall River entrance, and
on the East side of the river is Balmoral, where there is a large salmon
cannery, where steamers call regularly.

Pacjc 546. — Anger Island is separated from the coast of Pitt Island by a
narrow and intricate channel, which is used by small steamers engaged in
collecting salmon for tlie Skeena River canneries.

Pa*je 549. — Beaver Fasaage. — The northern and smaller Connis Rock is
a wooded islet.

Pa<je 549. — Kitkatlah Inlet. — See Addenda for page 557.

Patjc 550. — Kitson Islet, ofif the mouth of North Skeena Passage, has
shoal ground, of 6 to 8 ft., extending about 6 cables south-eastward from
its southern point. The passage between the islet and Leer Point is only
navigable by boats.

Page 551.— METLAH-CATLAH BAY.— A black spar btioi/ lies in 3^
fathoms, on the S.E. extreme of the reef extending South of Tugwcll Island,
at 6 cables E.S.E. of Dawes Point. A red can buoy lies in 6 fathoms,

half a cable westward of Al/ord liee/s. A small stone beacon, bearing a
staff and cross pieces, rising 8 ft. above high water, stands on the extremity
of the rocky ledge extending 1^ cable N.W. of ^S7ir«/> Islet. A black spar
buoy lies close eastward of Kelp Jiock, and another in 10 ft., on the ex-
tremity of the reef IJ cable eastward. Another lies in 6 ft., 2 cables S.S.W.
of Mission Point.

Page 552.— Hodgson Beefs are marked by a red can buoy, lying in 5
fathoms, off their S.W. extreme, at nearly IJ mile W. * S. from Ryan
Point.

ADDENDA.

Patjc 553. — BIG BAT. — There is contincd anchorage in 4 fathoms, south-
ward of Swallow Island. On the banks of the river, eastward of the island,
is the village named (n'oriiclown, where is a email iron shipbuilding yard.
The mail steamers call hero.

P(Uje 553. — Sparrowhawk Bock is marked by a buoy, painted in black
and red bamis, lying in 2 fathoms.

Page 554.— PORT SIMPSON is the nearest harbour on British territory
for vessels bringing passengers and cargo for the upper reaches of the Yukon
River, via the Stickeen Kiver. These have now to be transferred into river
steamers at Fort Wrangel, on United States territory, as it would not bo
safe for river boats to navigate the open waters between. A pier extends
from the fort to low-water mark.

Pages 556-557.— STEPHEN ISLAND.— 7?H</<'rs Cove, on Stephen Island,
is an excellent and secure anchorage for small vessels, being clear of danger,
and can be entered in the worst weather. The water is deep, and the
shores steep-to, there being sheltered anchorage in 12 fathoms, mud, a
little above the rock on the North side. There is a fishery station here.
Skiakl liay, about 1 mile to the N.W. of White Cliff Point, is full of rocks.

Page 557.— EDYE PASSAGE.— In 1897, Capt. J. T. Walbran reiwrted
that there is no passage from the northern end of Canoe Passage, or Kit-
katlali Inlet, into Edye Passage, there being an isthmus 2^ miles wide.
The inlet is a spacious sheet of water, witij numerous islets in it. At 5
miles W. i[ N. from the village of Kilkatlah is the entrance of Ficedmait
Pass, which thence trends 2i miles to S.S.W., only 100 yards across in its
narrowest part, but widening to 1 mile at tho seaward end. Tiiis passage
is intricate, witii strong tidal currents, but is used by steamers engaged in
the halibut fishery.

Wallace Hock, with 8 ft. over it, and marked by kelp, lies about 1^ mile
W. by N. from Seal liocks. Broken water is also stated to have been
observed much nearer to Warrior Rocks than to Wallace Rock. The passage
South of Seal Rocks is safe, and also that northward of tlie Warriors, but
vessels are advised not to pass between.

Page 558. — Refuge Bay has a fishery settlement on its West side, with
a cannery and a store. The wlmrf reaches to low-water mark.

Page 572.— Houston Stewart Channel.— (i,'"(J(/r<J liocks form a small rocky
patch, with 6 to 14 ft. over it, the western extreme lying (')\ cables N. ^ W.
from Hornby Point. In May, 1892, the rise at springs was observed to bo
U) feet.

Page 579.— SKIDEGATE INLET has some deposits of coal on both
shores. A red huoif lies in 3^ fathoms, on the North side of Dead Tree
Point Clmnncl, at 7 cables S. by W. from Inner Bar Rock. Danube
Ixock, in the fairway of the inner part of the inlet, has about 4 ft. over it,
and lies 3 cables N. by E. } B. from the N.l'i, point of Triangle Islet.

i'df/c 580. — Skidegate Channel. — See Addenda i. : page 58G.

North Pad tic Addenda. S

■k 'ktii'';i:^}

■ "%

ADDENDA,

I ' •,. !

,(■1 1

Pdiic r)fi4.— Virago Sound. — In July, IHDfi, the village of Kunij was found
to bo entirely deserted, and no pilots could be obtained by firing a gun at
the outer anchorage.

Pa(ic 58r). — North Island. — A rock, on which the soa breaks heavily, lies
about H miles N.W. by W. from tlie N.W. point of the island.

PiK/r 580. — Rennell Sound. — .\ rock, on which the sea breaks heavily, lies
in about lat. HT 20' N., long. 132" 49' W.

/V/r/r.s . "580-587. —Skidegate Channel. — In 1890, an island, about 2 miles
in circumference, was observed to lie about 4 miles West of the South point
r' the entrance. Foul ground extends 1 mile westward of the latter point,
and at half a mile eastward of the island a rock was seen breaking heavily.
On tiie North side of the ciiannel, about 2 miles within the entrance, is a
good liarl)our with secure anchorage.

Patjc 587. — Moore Channel. — A heavy breaker has been observed in the
entrance, about i\ mile N.N.W. of Cape Henry. In 189G, Capt. Meyer,
of the steamer Daiuilw, stated that when steering along the shore between
Capo Henry and San Christoval Mountain (in lat. 52" 29' N.), no large
openings were seen, as marked on the chart, except Tasoo Harbour.

Pdije 588. — Tasoo Harbour is easy of access for steamers, and well shel-
tered, but no good anchorage was found for the Danube ; she lay 1 cable
off a conspicuous gravelly beach on the North shore, eastward of three
rocky islets.

P(V/cs 590-594. — ALASKA. — The population of this vast territory, whose
shore-line has an extent of about 20,500 statute miles, was estimated
at only 32,052 at the census in 1890, of whom 4,298 were whites. Its
wealth and resources consist mainly of furs, fish, minerals, and timber,
the fur trade being still by far the most important. Lignite coal has
been discovered in various parts. The best timber is found between
the S.E. boundary and Prince William Sound, and several sawmills are
now at work. In 1891, United States customs officers were stationed at
Mary Island, Wrangel, Juneau, Kodiak, Sand Point (Schumagin Islands),
and Ounalaska.

The United States Government has surveyed the more frequented parts
of the coast and islands, the great extent and intricacy of the coast-line,
and the innumerable off-lying islands and rocks, causing this work to be
very slow and tedious. Every care must be exercised when navigating in
this region, as previously remarked in page 1 of the Addenda.

Pages 593, 595. — Tongas is no longer a military post, but there is an
Indian village here.

Paqc 595. — BEHM CANAL is navigable by the largest vessels. There is
a custom-house on the N.W. side of Mary Island, off the eastern entrance
to the CanaL

Page 590. — Burrough Bay has a salmon cannery at its head, near the
mouth of Ujitik Bivei:

Page 597. — Yess or McDonald Bay, a long narrow inlet, 5 miles westward
of Bell Island, has a salmon cannery near its head.

ADDENDA.

Ptujc 597. — On tho North sido of NaJui Dai/, on tho western coast of
Rovilla Gi^odo Island, is tho viUago of Loriiuj, where there is a la^^»o
sahnon cannery and a post-oOice, situated in about lat. 55' 30' N., long.
13P 38' W.

Pnrje 698.— TONGAS NARROWS and Approaches.— Sea Addenda on
page 2. On the West side of the channel, opposite Alava Point (page 595),
are some off-lying islets and rocks, the easternmost known as Hoy Hocks.
A bltick can buoy lies in 12 fathoms, close eastward of Hog liocks.

Spire Island Reef, off the northern side of Annette Island, is marked by
a black can biioi/, in 7 fathoms, off its N.E. extreme.

Cutter liocks, lying off Mountain Point, opposite tho northern extreme
of Annette Island, are marked by a mast beacon, bearing a barrel, painted
in black and white baiuls. In 1895, kelp, with tho appearance of shoal
water, was reported 1 mile W.S.W. of the beacon.

California Hock, lying off the North side of Pennock Island, in tho
southern approach to the Narrows, has a buoi/ 1 cable north-eastward of
it. Idaho llock is marked by a red nun buoij, lying in 20 ft., over 6

cables N.W. ^ W. from the East end of Pennock Island.

Northward of the N.W. end of Pennock Island is tho village of Kichikan,
with a post-ofliice.

Pai/e 598.— DUKE of CLARENCE STRAIT.— TPcs* Devil Rock is in lat.
54' 39 J' N., long. 13P 3G' W. This locality was examined by the sur-
veyors in 1897, when broken ground, with 10 fathoms least water, was
found to extend 1^ mile North of the rock, and is said to break in heavy
weather.

Page 599. — Felice Striit— Poi«< Pcrcj is the westernmost of a group of
islets lying in the passage between Duke and Annette Islands. This strait
has several reefs in it. Wallace Reef, off the South coast of Annette Island,
and nearly three-quarters of a mile S.W. by W. from Snipe Islet, is marked
by a red nun biioij. A similar buoy marks Ajax lieef, 2 miles farther
south-westward.

Nichols Passage divides Annette Island from Gravina Island, and has
numerous islets and reefs in its southern part, especially off Port Chester,
on the western side of Annette Island, where there is an Indian village
and mission station, the New Metlahkatlah, with a salmon cannery, saw-
;iiills, stores, &c. Kelp Rocks, lying in mid-channel off Port Clioster, are
marked by a red nun buoij, in 10 fathoms, off their N.E. side. At
1| mile to E. by S. -^ S. from this buoy is a black can buoij, in 10
fathoms, off the extremity of the reef extending from Gull Islet, which lies
westward of Village Point. Waldcn liocks, lying in mid-cliannel, in tho
northern entrance of Nichols Passage, were marked by a mast beacon, whioh
was removed in 1897.

l'(('je 601. — Point Hiyhficl/l has a fish cannery on it. A 6-ft. pinnacle
rock, 3^ cables N.E. by E. from the point, is marked l)y a red nun buoy,
lying in 16 feet.

Etoline Harbour is now known as Wrangcl Harbour.

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WRAN6EL has lately risen to some notoriety, iniing situated at the
n)outh of the Stikine Biver, one of the main approaches to the Yukon
River goldfields. Here ocean-going vessels transfer their passengers to the
river steamers, and some controversy has arisen with the United States
customs authorities, but the navigation of this river is free by treaty for
Canadian as well as American vessels.

Page 602.— STIKINE or STICKEEN RIVEE, as stated previously (in
page 1 of the Addenda), is a favourite route for many to the goldfields,
being all in Canadian teriitory, and is also likely to be the most frequented
on the completion of the railway. During the winter the river is frozen
over, but from May to the middle of November it is navigable for vessels
drawing 4 ft. as far as TclajrapJi Creek, a distance of 138 miles from Fort
Wrangel, and at 12 miles below Telegraph Creek is the settlement of
Glenora. A railway is being constructed from Glenora to Lake Teslin, about
140 miles distant, whence ordinary river vessels and boats can reach the
Yukon ; it is to be completed in the autumn of 1B98, and is not likely to
be obstructed by snow in winter.

Garden roots and vegetables are raised on Farm Island, at the entrance
of the river, and salmon and wildfowl abound in the surrounding region.

Paf/e 602. — Wrangel Channel or Narrows is only available for vessels
drawing up to 17 ft., as previously explained in page 2 of the Addenda.
It has numerous dangers in it, many marked by buoys or beacons, but local
knowledge is necessary for its safe navigation.

Pa(je 603.— DUKE of CLARENCE ST'RAIT.— Lincoln Rock, covering at
high water, lies beyond Point Stanhope, on the N.E. side of the channel,
in lat. 56° 3^' N. ; it is marked by a red nun buoy, lying in 7^ fathoms,
about 2 cables S.W. of it.

Pa(je 603.— Sumner Strait separates Prince of Wales Island from Ku-
prianof Island, and in about mid-channel of its eastern part, westward of
Zarembo Island, are two dangerous rocky patches, steep-to. McArthur
Beef, the easternmost, has 2^ fathoms over it, and is marked by a nun
buoy, painted in red and black bands, lying in 6 fathoms, off its N.E. side,
at 3 miles S.E. | E. from Mitchell Point. At 3 miles S.W. ^ W. from
McArthur Reef is Eye-opener Rock, drying 12 ft., marked by a mast beacon,
bearing a barrel. (See page 2 of the Addenda).

On Point Barril is a salmon saltery, &c.

Shakan or Chican Bay, 10 miles southward of Port Protection, is filled
with islands, and at its head is a small village, with a post-office, sawmill,
and store.

Page 606. — Klawak, or Tlewak, at the head of Port Bucareli, is the most
important settlement on Prince of Wales Island. It has a post-office, salmon
cannery, stores, sawmillj &c.

Page 606. — Port Cordova has a large group of islets and rocks in its
entrance, between which and Long Island there appears to be a clear
passage. On the northern shore, opposite Long Island, is a fish cannery.

ii:!

ADDENDA.

Howkan, or Jackson Post Office, is a largo Indian villago and mission
station, with sawmills, stores, &c., on the western side of Lvmj hlanil, up
Kaiijdhncc Strait.

In 1890, a rock, on which the sea broke he'wily, was reported to lie about
5 miles E. by N. ^ N. from liasa Isle or ]y'olf Hock.

Pages GOG, 613, G19. — Cape Ommaney, in 1897, was reported by the U.S.
surveyors to bo charted about 5 miles East of its proper position.

I'aijc 607. — Point Ellis. — Near this is an extensive salmon cannery, with
largo stores.

Paije GOB.— PRINCE FREDERICK SOUND appears to be peculiarly
frcn from dangers to navigation, and abpunds with tish, including salmon
and trout in the larger streams. At 10 miles eastwai'd of Cape Fanshaw is
the entrance of Farnujut Bay, at the head of which there is sheltered
anchorage. Opposite this, on the northern side of Kuprianof Island, is
tiie long narrow inlet named Portayc Bay, with 3^ fathoms least water in
the entrance.

Thomas or Wood Bay, the large inlet eastward of Point Vandeput, has
its entrance embarrassed with shoals, and possesses very grand and varied
scenery, the mountains rising 2,000 to 3,000 ft. sheer from the water, while
in its northern and eastern angles there are great glaciers.

7/om Cliffs, opposite the northern entrance of Wrangel Strait, are very
prominent, and here is a fine waterfall, where water can be obtained by
boats.

Leconte Bay, 10 miles eastward of Horn Cliffs, is always full of icebergs,
derived from the glaciers, but abounds with seals, which are hunted by
the Indians.

Pa^jc 610. — Stephens Passage. — In 1889, a 3-fathoms rock was reported
to lie about 2 miles S.W. ^ W. from the outer Tiviii Islet, in the southern
entrance. Midway Islets lie i miles W. ^ N. from Point Coke,

Page 611. — TAKO ARM has been proposed as a good route of approach
to the Yukon golddelds, but it ends in a glacier which breaks off in ice-
bergs, rendering the inlet almost useless for navigation. It was proposed
to construct a railway hence to Lake Teslin, but this is now being made
from the Stikine River (see the Addenda for page 602).

Page 611. — JUNEAU now contains about 3,000 inhabitants, and its
wharves are lighted by the electric light. Fresh water and provisions can
bt3 obtained hero. On Douglas Island opposite are the famous Treadwell
f,'oldmines, which have yielded vast wealth, though the ore is of low grade.
The passage round the northern side of Douglas Island can only be used
by canoes.

Page 612. — Saginaw Channel. — Favorite Reef, on the eastern side of the
southern entrance, is marked by a buoy, in 10 fathoms, off its S.W. edge.
Faust Bock, of 2f fathoms, lying off Point Retreat, at the northern entrance
to tlio channel, is marked by a can buoy, painted in red and black bamls,
close off its eastern side.

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raijc 012.— CHATHAM STRAIT Iuvh not yet boon Hurvoyod. Ciiptain
iT. T. Wulbran, of tlio Caimtliaii Government steivinor (Jittulra, in IHS)7,
suKf^ostcd the followinn directions for voshoU bound northward throu>,'h
it : — From a position 2^ cables South of (Japo Onnnaney (aoo the Addenda
for page 006) steer W. ^ N., for 7 miles, and then alter course to N.W. ^ N.,
which will lead clear up the strait for about 7G miles, until Point Lull is
abaft the beam. This course will pass Yaslia Island about 2^ miles distant,
and Point Gardner 2 miles. Jiussinn Reef lies on a lino drawn between
Caution Point and Distant Point, 3^ miles from the former, well out of the
general track of navigation. It lies parallel with the sltoro, and is about
7^ cables long.

Vtuje 613. — To the N.E. of Russian Roof is Cha-ik liaij, on the North
sido of which is an Indian village. At 2 miles eastward of the village is a
covo, with good sheltered anchorage in 12 fathoms.

Between Point Gardner and Killisnoo, heavy tide-rips occur off nearly
all the projecting points and reefs, sometimes to 1 mile off shore.

Kelp Bay is tlie largo indentation on the western side of the strait, oppo-
site White Water Bay. Its northern arm runs 3 J miles westward, and is
connected with Ilanus Bay, in Peril Strait, by a flat covered 2 or 3 ft. at
highest tides. Much cedar has been cut and rafted hero. Vessels can I'md
anchorage at the heads of the various arms of the bay, in 18 to 21 fathoms.

At 4 miles southward of the southern point of Kelp Bay is a conspicuous
waterfall, at H mile southward of which is Ta-Katz Bay, where there is
good sheltered anchorage in 20 fathoms, in the basin just before it turns
abruptly to the northward.

Page 613. — Killisnoo. — Kenusnow Island is now known as Killisnoo, and
on its S.E. point stands a beacon, marking the West side of the eastern
channel into Killisnoo Harbour. On the eastern side of this channel aro
some-sunken rocks, marked by a red nun buoy, in 5^ fathoms, from which
the end of the wharf bears W.N.W. There is a clear channel between the
South side of the island and the low sandy 'fable hid. The extremity

of tlie reef extending off the N.W. end of the island is marked by a red nun
buoy, in 8 fathoms, with the wharf bearing E. by N. A white wooden
beacon, 20 ft. high, marks some rocks about half a mile westward of the
wharf ; the best winter anchorage is in 14 fathoms, with this beacon in lino
with the middle of Table Islet, and the wharf bearing N.E. by N. jj N.
There is a fishing village, with a post-oflice, on the N.E. end of the island,
and a trading station at Kotcosok.

Kootznahoo. — A black can buoy lies in 5 fathoms, off the extremity of the
reef extending from Danger Point. The coal mines are not now worked.

Pages 613, 628. — Morris Reef extends about 2 miles eastward from Ilaycs
Point, on the western side of the strait, opposite Kootznahoo, many of the
rocks showing at low water. The extremity wiis marked by a buoy. Good
sheltered anchorage can be obtained in Sitkoh Bay, in 20 fathoms, in a
bight formed on its eastern shore, 2 miles above Hayes Point.

Page 614. — Winds, — In summer, the wind blows almost constantly from
the sea up Chatham Strait and Lynn Channel, which lie almost in a

ADDENDA.

Htrni^ht lino, cniiHod hy tho hi^h inountniiiH on cithor nidn divortitiK the nir
cunoiitH towiviilH tlio axis of tho chaiinol. ThoHc, buiiig lioavily charged
with iiioiHtuie, ctiiiso fitMiiK^nt and heavy fallu uf rain or hiiow.

Piiflfl (514. —LYNN CHANNEL has heoomo of considcrahle impoitanco,
now h((in>,' oiin of tho most fro(|iK!ntod routes to tho Yul<on j,'ohUiol(lH (soo
pa>,'o I of the Addenda). Oocan-^oin^^ vohhoU land thi'ir i)aHHonj,'orH at
Cliilcat Iiilut or at Chilcoot Inlot, at itn huad, but thu forniur atTords vory
poor Hholtcr from tho provaihnj; soutlicrly windw. Mr. Oj^ilvie, tho (Jana-
dian survoyor, reports ('hilcoot Iidtjt to ho prufcrahlo as an anclioraKO ;
Si<aj{way Hay, near its head, iH always open to navij,'ation, and has doop
wator, oxcollont sholtiir, and ^'ood wharves for hvrgo vessels.

llaniis licefin marked l)y a cdii /»»<>//, painted in red and I'lack liamh.

In Funtcr lUiy, opposite Point Couverdon, aro some ^'oldminos.

i'rtf/e 015. — Vaiulcrbilt licef ia marked hy a Inunj, 1 cable ofT its N.E.
side ; attempts have Ix^en made to establish a mast beacon on tho reef,
but it has been washed away.

Favorite Channel. — Pnundstonc Jinck is a dan^^orous 12-ft. pinnacle, lyin^
nearly in mid-channol of the northern entrance; it is marked by a can
buoii aintod in red and black b<iiids, lyiu}^ in 3 fathoms, oil" its western
side, 1 mile S. ^ E. from Sentinel Island. Should the buoy bo adrift,
vessels approaching^ from the northwi' 1, after passing Vandorbilt Reef
buoy, should stoor for the eastern edge of Shelter Island until up to that
island, and then keep a mid-channel course down Favorite Channel.
Approaching from tho southward, steer v mid' channel course with Portland
Island astern, until tho South end of Sentinel Island is in line with the
S.E. end of IJenjamin Island.

Jicrncrs Bay lias a sawmill in it, about 3i miles northward of St. Mary
Point. At 8^ miles N.W. by W. from this point is a settlement named
Seward, with mines and sawmills. In 18U7, there was a dangerous

sunken wreck lying in the anchorage in William Ihnrij Harbour.

Vaijc G16.— CHILCAT INLET.— There is a village, with a fish cannery,
at Pi/ramid Harbour, and others on tho opposite shore. Dalton's Trail to
the Yukon River, by way of the Chilcat and Klaheela Rivera, is a good and
easy route for those bound to or from the goldfields, and may possibly be
used during winter, but a great many pack-horses would be necessary, as
the land transit of about 300 miles takes two to three rtreoks.

Page 1 17.— CHILCOOT INLET.— There is a mission station, withapost-
otl'(iC, (\j Poi*a{ic Bay. The compasses are liable to considerable disturb-
ance hntweon this bay and Battery Point to the southward, tho needlo
being scmetimes deflected to the extent of one or even two points to the
westward. This disturbance has been noticed to decrease gradually to tho
southward of Battery Point, the needlo resuming its normal direction when
about 4 miles distant from that point.

Skagway River. — At the entrance, near tho head of Chilcoot Inlet, and
3 miles southward of Dyea, there are wharves reaching into deep water,
where large vessels may safely lie and discharge cargo at any time of tide.
Vessels anchor in depths from 30 to 40 fathoms, mud. In February, 1898,

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ADDENDA.

about 6,000 people were encamped hero. Hence there is a trail over the
White Pass to Lake Bennett, 28 miles distant, whence the Yul<on f^old-
fields can be reached by canoe or boat, the Klondyko being over 500 miles
distant. Thio pass, attaining an elevation of 2,000 ft., is oonsidered easier
to surmount than the Ciiilcoot Pass, but both are obstructed by deep
snow in winter,

Dyea Inlet, the head of Lynn Channel, has no harbour, but the anchorage
is reported to be better than that at Skagway, though vessels coming here
would be exposed to the violent winds which blow up it. Ocean-going
vessels here transfer their passengers and cargo into boats or barges, if they
be bound for the Yukon goldfields by way of the Chilcoot Pass to Lake
Bennett. At 15 miles from the sea this pass attains an elevation of 3,G00
feet, and, being impassable for horses, a wire tramway has been erected to
haul goods to tlie summit.

Wharves and other acconnnodation for large vessels are being con-
structed, and in February, 189H, about 5,000 people were encamped here.
Large vessels lie in about 28 fathoms, mud, southward of the flats, which
dry 1 mile out at low water, and are stcep-to.

Payc G19.— CAPE OMMANEY.— See the Addenda for page 606.

Paijc 620.— Siwash, Berry, or Tenakce Inlet, is long and narrow, with
deep water, and at its head is a narrow portage for canoes to Port
Frederick. On its North side, about 8^ miles within the entrance, is a
village of Iloonah Indians, where there are some hot sulphur springs.

Paxje 621.— CROSS SOUND.-Seo page 2 of the Addenda. In 1898, the
U.S. surveyors reported that Pleasant, Porpoise, Sisters, and Spasskaia
Islands, are charted about long. 7', and Point Sophia about 10', too far
West.

Pa(/c 621— Port Frederick.— In 1893, the U.S.S. Pinla, drawing llHt-.
at low tide touche 1 on a sunken rock on the West side of the entrance, at
about 2 miles W. J N. from Point Sophia. There is a mission station

at Uoonijah Harbour.

i'm/c 622.— GLACIER BAY.— In the "American Journal of Science,"
January, 1887, is an r,ri.icle l)y Mr. G. F. Wright, in which ho estimated
that the Muir Cllacier, the most imposing of the five immense glaciers at
the upper part of the bay, and which has a sea-face of 1 mile, represents a
body of ice measuring about 5,000 ft. wide by 700 ft. deep, entering the
sea at an average rate of 40 ft. a day. At 10 miles inland it is 10 miles in
width.

Paijcs 623-624.— Port Althorp.— In 1896, Capt. II. H. Lloyd, an Alaska
pilot, reported this harbour as good for vessels of any size, and as being
easy to approach. Off the western shore, near its head, is a round wooded
islet, eastward of which '^liere 's anchorage in 22 fathoms, mud. The
anchorage N.W. of Georyc Islnml is not good, the bottom being very rocky;
a rock, 130 \i. iiigh, lies 2A cables S.W. A S. from the western point of the
island, with which it is connected by a reef.

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Pages G24-625. — Directions. — The Ri-oup of islands lyinR between Wim-
bledon and Lavinia Points are named Ininii hhauh, and vessels must not
attempt to pass sout vard of them, this narrow ohamic.l beiiif^ dangerous,
and the tidal current sweeps through it with terrific force. Vessels sliould
pass about mid-channel between the N.W. island and Wimbledon Point,
where there are no known dangers, though floating ice and thick fogs nniy
bo met with.

Parjc 627. — Nevski or Neva Strait. — Several of the rocks and dangers are
now marked by hui>,jii and beacons, but local knowledge is necessary for thj
safe navigation of this narrow and intricate cluinnel.

Pogibshi Channel, or Peril Strait, is largely used by the local coasting
and other vessels. Brad Hock is a dangerous rock, with 7^ ft. over it at
low water, reported by the surveyors in 1898. It lies about 150 yards Eas j
of the first point above Salinonberrji Cove, on the West side of the southern
entrance to the channel. In the narrows the tidal streams sometimes

run 10 knots an hour, causing rapids, whirlpools, and eddies. Slack water
lasts only about 20 minutes.

Paije 028. — Fairway Islet, lying in tiio eastern entrance of Peril Strait,
is a prominent mark, being about 320 ft. higli, and covered with trees.

Haniis Bail, 4 miles south-westward of Fairway Islet, is frequented by
Indians for drying fish, and is not reconnnonded for largo vessels. At 4
miles farther westward is Sa-ook Bay, att'ording good anchorage in 18 to 22
fathoms, mud, above a spit projecting from the western side, H mile from
the entrance. Hodman Bay, the long inlet 4^ miles farther westward, has
irregular depths in its entrance, but there is good anchorage near its head,
in 10 to 12 fathoms, southward of two islets.

2%c 681.— SITKA SOUND.— Eaateru Channel. -A white beacon, 20 ft.
high, known b,« the West Beacon, has been ercckid on Makhnati Island,
and over 2 miles to S.E. by E. f E. is the East Beacon, also white, stand-
ing on the summit of the Eckholins. Zenobia Hock was marked by a buoy,
but it was discontinued in 1895. A nun buoy lies \'\ 10 fathoms, southward
of Makhnati Hock, and 3 cables South of the West bor.con. Tzaritza Hock
is marked by a black can buoy, lying in 10 fathoms, at about If mile
N.E. by N. J N. from the East beacon ; and another lies in 5 fatiioms,
close southward of Simpson Hock. A 3J^-fathoms pinnacle rock lies 4^
cables E. by N. f N. from the East point of Katz Island.

Middle Channel. — A black can buoy lies in 5 fathoms, close southward of
Kccne Hocks. Clian7icl Hock is marked i)y a polo beacon, and nearly 2
cables to N. by E. \ E. is a black spar buoy, in 5^ fathoms, marking the
North side of the channel. A red spar buoy lies in 6 fathoms, marking the
North end of the shoal, at l\ caijlo N.N.E. of Chamiel Kouk beacon. A
9-ft. rock lies Ij^ mile W. { S. from the same beacon, and north-eastward
of Apple Islands ; and a rook awash lies 1 mile W. l)y N. from the beacon.

Patjes 632-G34. — SITKA contained 1,190 iMliaiiitants at the census in
1890, of whom 294 were whites. The citadel was destroyed by fire in

Nortli Pacific Addenda. . ^

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March, 1894. There is regular communication by steamer with San Fran-
cisco, Victoria, Puget Sound, Ounalaska, St. Michael's, &c. A fixed bright
lantern light, elevated 108 ft., is shown on a white framework on Castle
Bock, in the N.W. part of the harbour.

Page 635. — The COAST between Capo Spencer and Prince William Sound
affords only two safe anchoracjes, with landing all the year round, at
Yakutat village and Kayak Island ; though in summer, the Indians can
land at Lituya Bay,- Dry Bay, at the head of Yakutat Bay, at Icy Bay,
Icy Cape, and Cape Yataga. Lieut. H. W. Seton-Karr, who examined
this region in 1886, states that eastward of Yakutat and Icy Bays there
exist small plains covered with forest of spruce and cedar, but elsewhere
the plains consist of bare stones covering huge glaciers. The coast-line is
therefore undergoing constant alterations. ;

Pages 636-637. — Yakutat Bay. — In 1895, breakers wero reported as ex-
tending 2^ cables off Ca2)e Phipps and Ocean Cape. H.M.S. Hyacinth
found good anchorage in 13 fathoms, off the Indian village, with Cape
Phipps bearing S. 55° W., and Turner Point S. 85" W. Deposits of coal
exist in this region. There is a Swedish mission station at Port Mulgrave.

Disenchantment Bay, the inlet at the northern angle of Yakutat Bay, is
surrounded by magnificent scenery, and the largest vessels could safely
use it. At the end of the 18th. century it was closed hy a wall of ice, which
has retreated 5 or 6 miles since that time.

Pcujc 638. — Point Manby is a low wooded bluff, and between this and
Icy Cape the water is often discoloured, probably by streams from the
glaciers.

Page 638. — ICY BAY is now merely a slender bight, the bay having been
filled up by d6bris brought down by the Yahtse River. Icy Cape, the ex-
tremity of the Guyot Glacier, consists of ice cliffs about 300 ft. high ; it is
reported to be in lat. 60° 10' N., long. 141° 27' W., or about 12 miles north-
ward of the position shown on the chart.

Page 639.— MOUNT ST. ELIAS was decided by the Boundary Com-
mission, in 1892, to be in Canadian territoi-y, its summit being elevated
18,01? :t., in 1^.. CO^ 17' Uy N., long. 140° 55' 19^" W. Its summit
was attaii.:^''' for the first timr; en July 31, 1897, by the Italian Prii ee
Luigi Amadeo di Savoia, who made the elevation, by mercnripj barometer,
to be 18,060 feet. No traces v/ere seen of any volcanic action, as reported
previously. It has been seen from sea when 150 miles distant. About 17
miles to the north-eastward of Mount St. Elias is Mount Logan, rising to
an elevation of 19,512 ft., the highest peak on the North American con-
tinent, and about 2 miles from this is another peak, elevated 19,276 feet.

Pamplona Rock was carefully searched for, but in vain, by the U.S.
survey steamer Hassler, in 1892, no trace of any danger being encountered.
Sealing and other vessel'^ vbo report having seen no indication of such a
danger near the charted position.

Pa(,
144° \
usual!

Pag,
island,
has a
miles f)
Great c
ledge i
barque
the chai
Page
ment on
having
rises 9 f(
On the
a 8 nail s
Middle
end, its c
towards
by kelp ai
of wild ge
10 miles (
*he West
dark boul
from 30 to
Foitntaii
the North
in 1882, lie
Capt. Simii
miles N. b]
long. East i
have also b(
reef was rejj
chinbrook, i
East and W
The tidal
to the N.E.,
In 1895, tl
Cape Hinchii
ward of their

Pages 642-

leaving can u

the dangers b

only to use th

Hinchinbroc

,i ■

Pa(jc 640. — Cape Suckling is now considered to be in about longitude
144° W. About 4 miles to the southward and westward of it are two shoals
usually marked by breakers.

Page 641. — Kayak Island. — Some Swedes were found living on this
island, in 1886, engaged in hunting sea-otters. Ca2}e St. Elias or Hamond
has a reef extending many miles southward of it, on which, at about 6
miles from the cape, stands a flat pRrpendicular rock, 500 or 600 ft. high.
Great caution must be exercised when navigating in this vicinity. A rocky
ledge is reported to lie 3^ miles S.W. f S. from the cape, on which the
barque Sea Ranger was lost in 1893. There is not less than 6 fathoms in
the channel northward of Kayak Island.

Page 642. — Wingham, Mitchell, or Little Kayak Island, had a settle-
ment on the S.E. point, which is connected with Kayak Island by a bank
having 19 ft. over it, inside which there is good anchorage. The tide
rises 9 feet.

On the western branch of the wide delta of the Atna or Coj^pcr River is
a s nail settlement named Alaganik.

Middleton Island is about 5 miles long, and 1} mile wide near the South
end, its central and highest part being elevated 140 feet. Hence it declines ~
towiirds the North to a long sandspit, dry at low water. It is surrounded
by kelp and foul ground, and is covered with grass and bushes, the resort
of wild geese, ducks, and sea-birds. Breakers are said to extend more than
10 miles off its southern end. There is good anchorage about the centre of
^■he West side, and thence to the South end extends an unbroken line of
dark boulder clay cliffs about 100 ft. high. On the East side the cliffs are
from 30 to 50 ft. high. In 1892, there were a few settlers on it.

Fountain Rock is variously reported to lie 2^ to 5 miles northward of
the North point, and a rock, on which the barque Northern Light struck,
in 1882, lies nearly 4 miles S. 32" E. from the S.E. point of the island.
Capt. Simmons, of that barque, stated that Sea Otter Reef lies about 19
miles N. by W. | W. from the North point of the island ; it is about 2 miles
long. East and West, awash at low water, and breaks heavily. Overfalls
have also been seen 6 or 8 miles eastward of this reef. In 1893, a sunken
reef was reported to lie nearly midway between the island and Cape Hin-
chinbrook, in lat. 59° 50' N., long. 146° 30' W., about half a mile long,
East and West, and sometimes breaking.

The tidal streams hereabout run 2 to 3 knots an hour, the flood setting
to the N.E., and the ebb to the S.W.

In 1895, the U.S. authorities reported that Cape Suckling, Cape St. Elias,
Cape Hinchinbrook, and Montague Island, lie about 21' of longitude east-
ward of their charted positions.

Pages 642-643.— PRIIfCE WILLIAM SOUND.— Steamers entering or
leaving can use the channel westward of Montague and Green Islands, all
the dangers being reported as visible, but sailing vessels are recommended
only to use the channol between Hinchinbrook and Montague Islands.

Hinchinbrook Island is mountainous, and was covered with snow at the

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ADDENDA.

bo^'iimitig of Juno. ('(ij)c Iliiicliinhrook, a ncntly blopiii},' ridge, is now cnn-
Hidoiod to i)(! in about lonj^. J4G" 2G' \V. Seal Hocks art) two bare blackish
rockH, about 10 ft, lii;^li, surrounded by nuinerouH Hinall rocks cxtcndiiij^
about IJ cal)lo off. A roef oxtendn about 1 mile to N.I'j. by N., and heavy
breakers liave boon scon cxtondiiif^ 1^ mile to tlio eastward and southward.
Conso(juently, tboy sliould bo f^iven a wide bortli.

Port Etches is safe of approacli, and vessels may take up anchorage as
convenient, the usual bertli being with I'hipps I'oint bearing W. ^ N. In
severe gales, a line of briiakers extends from I'orpoiae Uocksto Fort Point.
On the latter is the trading settlement, known as Nncliiik, which contained
02 inhabitants in .lune, 1K'.)4, and tiie Kussiun fort no longer exists. No
supplies coubl be ol)tainod liero, but wood and water were plentiful. Boats
approach it from tlio northward, by way of C!onstantino Ilari)our, tho least
depth in the entrance chamiol being about '.) ft. at low water. y\ spit of
shingle, elevated about 35 ft., connects tho village with tho shore to tho
, westward, and forms the southern boUi;di'."y of tiie harbour.

PtKjc ni'l. — Hawkins Island is divided by a boat passage leading into
I'ort Cordova from the central part of its South shore, and has three small
islands olT its N.K. end.

Port Cordova. -Vessels Itound here, from off Port Etches, usually steer
N.W, by N. ^ N. for Kimvlcs Hv.ad, tho black blulT between Port (jravina
and Port Pidalgo. When about (5 miles from it, they alter course to
N.i''i. by H. g H. for the northern side of tho bay, avoiding tho Hawkins
Island shore, until well within tho bay.

At Ona, about (J miles to the N.N. 10. of C!apo Witshed, arc two salmon
canneries. Vessels bound hero usually pass through tho lU-ft. channel
between Hawkins Island and the island off its eastern end, and then feel
their way with tlie lead.

Patjc G15.— Many islets and rocks lie off tho point between Port Cordova
mid Vorl (IntriiKt ; in the latter there is good anchorage, between tho
aouthern point and a low wooded island 2 miles to the N.W. of it.

Port FiiUiliji) is reported to bo full of shoals. A shoal Hat is reported to
occupy the western part of tlie sound between this and tho North point of
Novvell Peninsula,

i'ri(/c.s' Gl.'i-IJUi. — Pafisaijc Canal. — -Thero is a portage from tho head of
this inlet to tho head of Turnagain Arm, in Cook Inlet.

Vnijca Gt7-G48.--M0NTAGUE ISLAND is very nigh and mountainous.
Koeks and foul ground extend 2 n:iles off thoN.V/. point, and an islet lies
off the N.l'l. ponit, 'riie western i)ay at the N.H. end alTords good anchor-
age. Wiuulcil Isldiiits, about 17 niih's north-eastward of Cape Cleare, ex-
tend about 7 miles along the coast, and attain an elevation of 130 feet.
Th(!y should bo given a berth of at least 2 miles. Off CVf^w Clviuc, are
several large rocks, ami a reef extends about 1 J mile southward of it.

Tho coasting steamers use the channel i)ot\vcon Montague and (Ireen
Islands, although it is repoitcd to l)e full of rocks. There is said to bo good
anchorage in the northern part of M'Lcud Ilaihoar.

ADDENDA.

Pdijc. (54!).— Chiswell Iiles. — Tlio southern Seal liork is now coiiHidcrod
to lio'in ivboiit lat. 0!) .3.T N., long. 149" Hi' W.

In 181)0, tlioro was a small sottloniont named Lou-ell in licsnrrcclion Ihti/,
the only ono botwocn Cny Pugot and Cape Elizabeth.

Pnijc 649.— Cape Elizabeth is in about long, 151" 52' W. Cluujatz Inlands
are high, and generally topped with snow, the lower parta being wooded.
Thoy appear to bo safe of approach to 1 mile distant.

i\tf/(! 650. — COOK INLET has attracted considerable attention of late
years, owing to its fisheries and lignite coal deposits, sciains '2 to 7 ft. thick
appearing on the Surface, and gold has been found in Turnagain Arm. Tho
following information is gained from tho reports of tho U.S. surveyors, and
of captains of vessels who have visited its shores.

Northward of .\nchor Point, the eastern shore is low, with many lakes
and rivers, and with an unbroken lino of uniform Hat blulTs, 110 to 160 ft.
high, as far as Capo Kussilof, where there is a break, and then tho blulTs
become lower as far as Kaknu liiver, when they agam become higher.
Near Capo Douglas tho coast is also low and Hat, but to tho northward tho
western shore is mountainous, tho lower slopes being wooded, but between
the West and North Forelands it becomes again low and flat.

In the upper part of tho inlet, tho water is of a whitish colour, with
yellowish patches during flood tide.

In sununer, clear warm weather prevails, a great contrast with tho rainy
weather then experienced in Prince William Hound.

Tides, — The tidal streams run from 1^ to 2^ knots an hour, tho main
stream of flood setting parallel with tho eastern shore until deflected by
the I'jast Foreland towards tho opposite coast. The ebb runs stronger near
tho West shore, and there is said to bo a constant southerly set olT Capo
Douglas. At Kussilof River tho tide rises from 18 to 28 feet.

Direct ions. — By keeping 5 miles oil the eastern shore, as far as the East
Foreland, a vessel will clear all dangers. Northward of Kalgin Island,
the load should bo kept constantly going, as shoals are continually forming
or altering. If bomid to the upper part of the inlet, cross from under tho
East Foreland to tho West Foreland ; either may l)o approached to a
distance of about IJ^ mile. Hound tlio West Foreland and haul for the
North Foreland, keeping on that side of tho ciuumel from whi'-!; liio tide
sots. From North Foroland a course N.E. ^ E. carries to tho islands off
I'oint Mackenzie.

Barren Islands are seldom topped with snow. TTeavy tide-rips are
formed westward of Amutali, tho western island, and a shoal is reported
to lie or 6 miles E. '\ S. from it.

Cape Beds. — Flat or Maijnct Island a, northward of Cape Bode, and
tide-rips have been seen 1| mile ol?" it, near a depth of 30 fathoms.

Graham or I'hKjUsti Ilarhoiir has a trading sottloniont on its southern
shore. On the North side of the entrance are some abandoned coal-mines.

I'dtjc 051, — t'lie lo' na Ban, 7 miles N.1'1. of Dangerous Cape, is a narrow
inlet, which can bo entered by vessels drawing 12 fl., and has a shingle

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ADDENDA.

boaoh in its inner part, whoro thoy could bo cloanod or repaired. On ita
caHtorn aide is tliu lishinf,' villa^,'o of SnUhtvia.

CHUOACHNIK or KACHEKMAK BAY.— Archimandrito/ Hocks, lyi ig
to the south-wostward of Cual or I'hitrance Point, arc roportod not to exist
as shown on tlio chart. This point is said to ho extending to tlie south-
ward, and has some buildings near its extremity ; vessels should not anchor
in loss than 8 fathoms. In 181)5, the steamer Chchalis obtained 30 tons of
coal from the bluff between (Joal I'oint and Jilnjf Point. The latter is high
and perpendicular, and between this and Anclior Point, a low sandy pro-
jection 12 miles to the W.N.W., kelp extends 4 miles oil' shore. To the
S.E. of Anchor Point is a village, from whicii a rocicy shoal extends about
3i miles to S.8.E.

Pcujc 0/32. — Between Anchor I'oint atid Cape Kussilof, rocks extend 1 to
'2 miles oiT shore, uncovering at low water. Munina, or Ninitchik, is a
village 22 miles northward of Anciior Point ; two reefs extend 2 miles off
it, and there is good anchorage between them.

Kussilof River, 18 miles beyond Munina, has a village witli some fish
canneries at its liiitrance, off wliich K<irliik Shoal extends for several miles,
partly drying at low water, and curving towards tlie shore on either side.
In 1890, a barrel l>i(i)ii was placed on its outer edge. Cape KaHxilof, to tho
S.W. of tho river entrance, is not a prominent mark, but at 8 miles south-
ward of it are three conspicuous rocks, 20 ft. liigli, called the Sisters. In
September, 1897, tho U.S. surveyors on tlio .'l/Aa</'os,s recoimnonded vessels
coming here to stand in for the cainiery buildings bearing I'j. by N., and to
anchor 3 to 4 miles from tiiem, allowing for 30 ft. or more as the range of
tide. Hence a staked boat chamuil, dry in places at low water, leads in to
the moutli of tho river. The Alhalross found 2A fathoms at G miles W.N.W.
of the caimeries. In 1895, Capt. Salvesen, of the steanuir Jennie, re[)orted
having sounded on a 3-ft. pinnacle rock, nearly G miles W. by N. ^ N.
from the canneries.

Kaknu River iias a village known as Kcnai, witli a salmon cannery and
trading station, on tho North side of its entrance, which is fronted by reefs.

Kamishak or lioiirdieii Pay, tlie large bight westward of Siuxw and
Augustine Islands, is shallow, and should only be used by small vessels.
Sunken rocks appear to lie between these islands, so tiiat vessels entering
should either pass soutiiward of Shaw Island, or nortliward of Augustine
Island. There is a village at Portaijc, in its N.l'i. angle.

ST. AUGUSTINE or Onchoin/anat Island is a conical active volcano, about
3,000 ft. high, which had a violent eruption in 1889. A rocky patcli, partly
awash at half-tide, lies 7 miles S.E. of the peak, and others are said to
lie farther out.

Chinitiia P^ 11 miles S.E. J S. from Iliamna Volcano, is protected by
a reef and " ^ ext'jnding from its southern point. Tiiero is a small
village here, "cnce to Kalgin Island the coast is fronted by extensive
banks and sliLt. , some drying at low water, within wiiich is a deep
ohamiel. Jliaiuiia or Iliaminsk Volcano is active, and rises to a sharp peak.
Brown bear and deer abound in these regions.

ADDENDA.

Tuxedni or Sn?/*/ Hnrhnur is a Rootl anchoraRO, the ontranco boiiiR south-
ward of Chinick Island, tho approach northward of that island boing cloHod
by a reef,

111 1H95, Capt Salvoson reported that tho 4-fatlioiii8 Rhoal, charted 5
iiiilos south-eaHtvvard of ('hisick Ishind, dooH not exist, liavinf^ frequently
fltoainod over this area, and found depths of 17 to 19 fathoms. Ho also
could not find the ri-fathoins shoal shown G miles farther southward.

If bound to Chinitua or Snug Harbour, keep South of tho parallel of
Anchor Point, hauliiifj; up to the western shore when Iliamna Volcano
bears N.W. by N., keeping to tho westward of tho banks, and using tho
lead constantly.

rage Qtb'.i. — Kalgfin or Conlyiac Island is very low and wooded, with
Bomo islets off its northern end. Shoals extend 7 miles northward of it,
about 3 miles off its eastern shore, and far to the S.W. of it.

Jicdoubl or liiirnt Mountain, 11 miles westward of Point Harriet, rises
to an elevation of 11,270 ft., and is an active volcano, its summit being
Bomowhat flat, A largo glacier descends into Redoubt Bay, between Point
Harriet and tho Wet;^. Foreland.

In May, 189G, Capt. Lundquist, of tho steamer Albion, anchored in 10
fathoms, sand, poor lulding ground, northward of tho West Foreland, and
found tho tidal stream running 8 or 9 knots an hour.

Between tho East and North Forelands, tho greater part of tho area ia
occupied by an extensive shoal, which is extending westward. The chan-
nel hero passes near the western and nortlioru shore, which forms Tradimj
liaij, on the North side of wiiich ia tho village of Ti/onick. A few milea
northward of tho North Foreland is a salmon-salting factory,

I'aye 054. — Suskitna River runs into the northern angle of Cook Inlot,
through a delta bordered by oxlensivo mud-flats, drying nearly 10 milea
olT at low water, and hero tho tide rises over 30 feet. Tho mud is so sticky
that a boat grounding on it may be swamped by the incoming tide. It ia
considered to be one of the largest rivers of Alaska, and traces of gold havo
been found on its banks.

Tho inlet to tho N.M. of Turnaijain Island is now known as Knik River.

Turnagain Arm is embarrassed with shoals, and the tides run 5 to G
knots at springs, tho rise ranging from 13 to 35 ft., l.o that great caution
is required in its navigation. There is a portage from its head to Passag(!
Canal, Princo William Sound. A dangerous rock, drying at half-tide, liiis
in mid-channol, H mile E. by N. g N. from Point Possession, Captain
liundquist found good anchorage in G fathoms, close to the beach, just
eastward of this point, out of tho run of tho tide, Drift-ico was seen iiero,
in May, 189G,

Page G55,— KADIAK ARCHIPELAGO.— Tho climate is mild enough to
allow the rearing of cattlo and sheep, and tho raising of potatos. Tho ship-
ment of ico has been discontinued.

Page GSG. — Portlock and Albatross Banks are the wide hank of sound-
ings fronting tho eastern shoros of tho Kadiak Archipolago, and they

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ADDENDA.

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abound with fish, chiefly cod, halibut, and red rock-fish. The bottom con-
sists of sand, gravel, and broken shells.

Shuyak Island, the northernmost of the Kadiak Archipelago, is low and
wooded ; it appears to have rocks extending 5 miles oflf its northern side,
and is separated from Afognak by a narrow strait, only navigable at slack
tide.

Afognak Island has numerous outlying rocks around it, and off its
northern end lies Sea Otter Islet, surrounded by breakers to at least 2
miles distant. In the bay westward of Tonki Cape, the N.E. extreme,
sealers find good anchorage, and obtain supplies of wood and water. The
only permanent settlement is at its southern end, where there is a trading
store, &c. Marmot Island, lying eastward of Afognak, is high and flat,
with rocks extending olf its North end to abreast Tonki Cape. The strait
between the S.W. coast of Afognak and liaspbcrrij Island is not navigable.

Ougak or Ugak Island has three small peaks, and is reported to lie about
IJ mile south-east war-", of its charted position.

ST. PAUL HARBOUR, being easy of access, is a great rendezvous for
sealers, and there is regular communication by steamer with Sitka and
Ounalaska. Small quantities of coal may sometimes be obtained here, but
provisions were not to be had. Large vessels can go up to the wharf. Fish
abounds in the harbour, but is said to be unwholesome. Small vessels can
haul up on the beach in the inner harbour. At the census in 1890, the
population numbered 495.

Paye 657. — Loiuj Island has steep rocky clifi's, and its summit is covered
with trees. It is used for pasturing cattle, and breeding the black fox.

In 1895, Capt. Hansen, of the schooner Kadiak, reported that Hutchinson
Reef is actually part of the reefs about St. George Bock, and is charted
about half a mile S.E. of its proper position.

Htimpback or Sugarloaf Bock consists of two or three small rocks, with
one large one, said to be only 6 ft. high ; they appear as one from the
S.W. or N.E. At three-quarters of a mile S.S.W. of it is a rock, awash
at low water, and IJ mile farther on is Kalisin Beef, awash at high water.

Directions. — The southern approach to St. Paul Harbour is the better.
The North channel is good in clear weather, but Williams and Hutchinson
Reefs make it dangerous in thick weather. Vessels should not attempt to
pass between Williams Reef and Long Island. In 1893, the following
directions were issued by the U.S. authorities : —

If entering by the North channel, in ordinary weather, Williams Reef
appears to be the best mark for making it. Passing at 1 mile to the north-
ward and westward of it, steer for the Channel Rocks, changing course
when the strait between Near and Kadiak Islands is open, which leads to
the wharf.

If coming from the southward, it is best to make for Ugak Island, though
in any but thick weather Cape Greville, with its outlying rocks, is unmis-
takable, and gives the best bearings for making the outer Humpback ; in
fair weather, a peculiarly shaped ridge on the mainland, called the Devil's
Thumb, if brought over the southern end of Long Island, will lead to it.

ADDENDA.

When abeam, distant about 1 mile, a course West, passing half a mile
southward of the inner Humpback, clears the Ghallt Patch. When the
strait between Wooded Island and Long Island is closed, change course
to N. i W., steering for the white church near the western point of
Wooded Island. When almost up with this point, which is marked by
kelp, steer N. by W. ^ W. for a few huts on the beach of Kadiak Island,
and anchor in about 14 fathoms.

Off the western side of Wooded Island, to the S.W. of the Russian church,
is a dangerous network of lost anchors and chains. Strong tide-rips and
eddies also render this anchorage an undesirable one.

Page 659. — Cape Greville or Chiniak is low and broken, backed by pine-
clad hills and sharp snowy mountain peaks, and dark rocks extend about
2 miles northward of it. U(jak or Igatskoij Bay, or Eagle Harbour, has

the native settlement of St. Orlovsk on the South side of the entrance, and
canoes can pass hence to the northern arm of Kiliuda or Kiluden Bay.

Sitkalidak Island is separated from Kadiak by a narrow strait, the
eastern part of which is not safe for vessels drawing over 8 ft., without
local knowledge. A breaking rock lies over 1 mile northward of Cajie
Barnabas. There is a settlement in Port Ilobron, the second bay inside
Cape Barnabas, and here is a good harbour for vessels of any class, with
fresh water in abundance from a mountain sti-eam.

Old Harbour, on the Kadiak shore, in lat. 57° 11' N., long. 153° 13' W.,
affords anchorage in 7 fathoms off the salmon-fishing village named
llunamiut or Three Saints, which can be safely approached by keeping in
mid-channel. About 4 miles farther southward, with Lisianski Bay lying
between, is Three Saints Bay, with the village of Ziatitz on the South side
of the entrance, and subject to furious squalls.

Alsentia Bay, westward of Two-headed Island, has a village at its head,
with good anchorage off it, but N.E. winds send in a heavy sea. Gce36
Islands lie off the southern end of Kadiak, the channel between being un-
safe, but between the western island and Cape Trinity is Russian Harbour.
A rock lies about 2 miles north-eastward of the eastern island. Sitchinak
Strait separates these from Trinity Islands, and tide-rips are met with in
it ; in mid-channel, depths of 12 to 17 fathoms will be found, giving the
Geese Islands a good berth.

In 1894, the U.S.S. Banger sounded in 15 to 21 fathoms, sand and rock,
on a bank lying from 21 to 30 miles eastward of Sitchinak Island.

The U.S. authorities report that the coast and islands hereabout are 6'
westward of the positions shown on the British charts.

Sitchinak Island consists of two parts, the western low, and the eastern
much higher. It is surrounded by foul ground, except on the North side,
and some small rocks lie about 1 mile E.N.E. from its East end. Coal has
been found here.

Tugidak Island is low and marshy, and heavy breakers are reported to
extend 12 to 15 miles off its eastern side, and shoal water 10 miles south-

Nortli Pacific Addenda. 7

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ADDENDA.

ward and westward of it. A dangerous rock is said to lie at least 7 miles
West of its South end.

Alitak Bay has a large sahnon cannery a few miles northward of Akkiok,
the villa{,'e at its entrance. Cape Alitnk, on the West side of the entrance,
is a p(!ninsula, with a hif?h douhle peak, with anchorage in 9 fathoms, sand,
at 3 miles to S.l']. by E. ^ E. Northward of it is the inlet known as
Ijuzy liny, which can bo safely entered by steering N.W. \ N. for a con-
spicuous dark peak, 1,010 ft. high, on its northern side, and anchor as
convenient, in 15 fathoms and under. Good water is plentiful. Olga Bay
is tlio head of a long inlet on the N.W. shore of Alitak Bay, and has a
salmon cannery at its N.E. end.

Cape Karluk rises abruptly to an elevation of 1,G00 ft., and there is a
busy settlement on the spit at the mouth of the river, with large salmon
canneries. In 1890, over 3,000,000 salmon were dealt with here.

Oniijak or Uyak Bay is frequented by vessels for shelter from northern
and eastern gales. On an islet at its entrance are a wharf and shed, and
on the western shore, about 10 miles from the entrance, is an inlet named
Larsen Harbour, where there is a salmon cannery.

Pa(ic 660. — Chelighoff Strait. — From Cape Douglas south-westward, the
coast of the mainland has the appearance of a rugged chain of mountains,
rising abruptly from tiie sea, indented by numerous bays and inlets, and
fronted by many rocks and a few islets.

About 20 miles S. ^ W. from Capo Douglas is the off-lying island of
K'mpalik, on an inlet westward of which is the village of Katjiiyak, or
Dowjlas. At IG miles beyond this is the projection named Cape Nukh-
shak, on the South side of Ilalln Hay, from the head of which there is a
portage to Lake Naknck. At 4 miles south-westward of the capo is the
native fishing villarge of Kiikak ; much salmon is caught in the inlet or
bay to the S.W. of it.

At 25 miles S. by W. from Cape Nukhshak is Takhli Island, in front of
Avialik Harbour, where there is sheltered anchorage in 10 fathoms, sand.
Seams of brown coal have been found here.

Katmai, 14 miles westward of Takhli Island, is the largest permanent
settlement on this part of the coast, and is situated up a small salmon
river, whence there are trails to Lakes Nahiek and Decharoff. Traces of
coal and petroleum have been found hereabout. Hence to Wrangell Bay,
about 80 miles to the S.W., there are no permanent settlements, but the
bays are frequented by fur-hunters.

The head of Foualo or Cold Bay is in about latitude 57" 47^' N., long.
155° 28' W., and about 12 miles from Lake Becharoff or Najiouantoughat.

Page 665. — At 12 miles beyond Cold Bay is Portage Bay, much nearer
the lake. Westward of this bay are Becharoff and Kialagvit Bays, fronted
by islets and rocks. There is a trail to Lake Becharoff from the former
bay.

Wrangell Bay lies 32 miles south-westward of Cold Bay, and here is a
fishing and trading village, where the schooners put in for fresh bear or
deer meat. '

ADDENDA.

Chignik Bay is the largo open bight, about 70 inilos south-westward of
W'rangell I3ay, and TuUumnit or Castle Point, on its South side, is a con-
spicuous landmark. Tliorc is secure anchorage in Doris Cove near the head
of the bay. Westward of Doris Cove is a high bluff, at the entrance to
Chignik Lagoon, which has a depth of 22 ft. at high water, deepening
within to 3 and 5 fathoms. Hero are some salmon canneries, the coal for
which is procured from a mine a few miles up the river.

Between Tuliuinnit Point and Kuprianof Point, 70 miles to the south-
westward, the coast is much indented, with several otT-lying islands, and
affords anchorage in some parts. On Mitivfania Island ia a native village.
In August, 181)2, the Wcniaminof Volcaiio, to the N.E. of Ivanof Bay, was
in eruption.

Page 665. — Semidi or Evdokccf Islaiuh were reported, in 1895, to lie
only 5 miles off shore, and, with the adjacent coast, appeared to be in-
correctly charted. They are used for breeding the blue and black foxes.
LightJiouse Hocks apj^iear to cover a space of about 2| cables, the largest
reaching an elevation of 90 ft. ; they are frequented by sea-lions.

Pages 66C-666. — Oukamok or Chirikoff Island has rocks extending several
miles off its West side. Vessels can anchor northward of these rocks, also
off the N.E. end, and southward of the West point.

Page 666.— SCHUMAOIN ISLANDS, like the rest of this region, have
not been carefully surveyed, and other dangers probably exist besides tlioso
shown on the chart. They are fronted by a wide bank of soundings,
abounding with fish. In 1893, Capt. Gaffney reported having often fished
on a small rocky 27-fathoms bank, lying 15 miles E.N.fj. from the summit
of Simeonoff Island, and a 23-fathom8 patch is reported to lie H mile
farther eastward. In 1892, Capt. Applegate reported a 7-fathoms shoal to
lie with that island bearing between W.N.W. and N.W., distant 20 to 35
miles.

Page 667. — Ounga, or Unga. — There is a fishing station, with a trading
store, in Dolarof Harbour, and a gold-raining village on the northern shore
of this bay, which is unsafe in S.E. gales, but small vessels can find shelter
in the lagoon.

Fopoff Strait, between Unga and Popoff Islands, is safe of approach from
the southward, while Unga Eeef, Popoff Reef, and the 15-ft. patch lying
between Unga Reef and Range Island, make the northern entrance some-
what difficult. The northern entrance is marked by a red haoij on the
East side of Unga Reef, and a black biioy lies on the rocky patch about 2^
cables eastward.

HUMBOLDT HAHBGUB is formed by the northern part of Popoff Strait]
and on Sand Point is a fishing village, with a custom-house and post-ollico.
There is regular communication by steamer with Sitka and Ounalaska, and
coal may sometimes be obtained here.

Light. — A local firm has placed a fixed light on the North side of the
harbour, showing bright over Sand Point, and red over the fairway between
Sand Point and Unga Reef.

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ADDENDA.

Directions.— In 1893, the U.S. authorities issued the followijig roinarks
ooncorning the approach to Humboldt Harbour. In coming from the east-
ward, the U.S.S. Mohican passed Cnstlo hlaiul, which is high and rugged,
at a distance of 2 miles, and then laid the course for Wedge Cape, a low
sharp point. Rounding this at 1 mile distant, alter course to S.W. ^ S. to
pass half a mile eastward of the Haj/stacka Islets, and when the eastern-
most islet bears N.N.W., steer S.W. by W. ^ \V. to pass 1 mile South of
Popoff Head, a high rounded projection. A \V. ^ S. course hence will load
southward of Egg Islands, and on the northern shore will be seen a reddish-
yellow cliff, the eastern point of lied Cove, where there is a fishing village.

Pass about 7^ cables westward of Egg Islands, and then steer for a small
building on Sand Point. Give this point a berth of 2 cables, and then steer
for the white buildings at the North end of the harbour, which will clear
Caton Shoal (of 14^ ft.), and the rocky patch eastward of it. Anchor as
convenient, eastward of this rocky patch, not less than 2 cables from tho
wharf.

Scotland Rock, lying in the channel between Karpa and Korovin Islands,
is usually marked by breakers. Korovin Straii, between Korovin and
PopolT Islands, is deep and clear, and so also is Gormans Strait, between
Korovin and Andronica Islands.

Nagai Island. — Sanborn Harbour, the inlet on the N.W. coast, affords
sheltered anchorage, but vessels should not anchor in less than 10 fathoms,
whence tho depth shoals very rapidly. Very strong squalls occur hero.
On tho N.E. side of the entrance is Porpoise Harbour, where there is a
fishing station.

Mist Harbour, at the eastern end of Nagai, is entort^ '-v a channel, about
100 yards in width, with 15 to 27 fathoms in it, with a lo.. ''ispit on

eitlier side. Within it opens to an area about 1 mile in lengtii, -ving
from 1^ to 3^ cables in width, with depths of 30 fathoms or more in its
central part.

Spectacle Island, between Nagai and Big Koniushi, is reported to have
its South end shown 2 miles too far southward on the chart ; Peninsula
Islet is placed too far to the N.E.

Sandy Cove, in Little Koniushi Island, is 1 mile in width, and afToidi
good anchorage, except with S.E. winds, in 9 fathoms, sand, in the S.W.
angle.

Portage Bay is the deep inlet in the coast northward of Un^a Island, its
head being separated from Herenden Bay, on the North coast of Aliaska
Peninsula, by an isthmus about 2 miles in width, and it has been proposed
to construct a railway over this to the coal mines (see the Addenda for
page 686). In its upper part is Albatross AncJiorage, with depths of 9
fathoms and under, sandy bottom.

Beaver Bay, about 6 miles v/estward of Gull Island (off the North end
of Unga), is a commodious haibour, with good anchorage in 8 to 15 fathoms,
well protected from northerly winds between East and West.

The COAST, to the S.W. of Portage Bay, is deeply indented by Pavloff,
Cold, and Marshovo Bays, besides which there are numerous other smaller

ADDENDA.

'>ay*i. as shown on tlm /.».«..* • *^

-now wa.„„„„ ch.„„:5j «;;;"'• "* '"""■•». ".on .„;!,■ '„■

S.W and the best anchora-^e for a 1„ ^^^ '' °P°" ^^^^'ween S R ancl
the church bearin- W N w , stranger is in abn; t 10 fJh

'o '™'n the western

« ^?o;:„^ra.trl:it -^

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'"^iount Sannak bearing Noffh ° u ' '■°°^' ^^^^^ at low water if °u
^ Aleks Hock, a snmTbtkfn' " .^k"' .'^^- ''" '' N- lonllKs W ''"^
^outh of Cape Pankoff. '"° ^*^''^' '« ^^Ported to lie'abo't 21 Zn

schooners. S'°">^ T'°''^Ie at its northern end bv .h

^'»age aie some hot springs. ' ^ * ^^'^ "»les nortlnvard

/'aj/e 669._The AIEUTIAW tst at^tt^c

i"ll-sides are carpeted with wild flowers '^" ^" "^""^ '^^d July, the

Page G70.~0VmilLAK is said fo h ' • ,

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ADDENDA.

ward of Cape PatikvJ, the eastora extreme. A ledge, with three rocks on
it, extends 1 mile S.E. from Cape Lazarcff. Cape Khituk or Seal Cape,
the S.E. extreme, is a rocky cliff, 150 ft. high, and there is no islet off it,
as shown on the chart. At 1 mile eastward of it is a conspicuous steep
hill, about 500 ft. high. SJiazo Bay, on the North coast, eastward of Cajje
Lapin, is shallow, but affords anchorage in 6 to 9 fathoms, sand, in the
S.W. angle, sheltered from all winds but those between N.W. and N.B.
Bears, reindeer, foxes, wolves, and wild-fowl ai*e found here.

Tagc 671.— FOX ISLANDS PASSES are the three navigable rhannels. to
or from Behring Sea, between Ounimak and Ounalaska. Ounimak Strait,
the widest, is used by nearly all vessels bound to or from Behring Sea;
being clear of hidden danger, it is the safest in thick weather. Akoiitan
Strait, between Akoutan and Ounalga, is narrow, but clear of danger in
mid-channel. Ounahja Strait, between Ounalga and Ounalaska, is safe,
but tide-rips are generally found in it, the streams running strongly. In
clear weather, Tigaida forms a good landmark, as also does the volcano on
Akoutan.

Erenitzin Islands. — Tigaida and Owjamok Islands are both fringed with
reefs on their southern sides, making it unsafe to approach them in thick
weather near enough to make out the land. The strait between them is
blocked up with islets and reefs.

Akoun Cove, at the N.E. extreme of Akoun, is large, and easy of approach,
but is subject to heavy squalls. Ikonn Strait, between Akoun and Akoutan,
is only available for small vessels.

Pages 672, 677. — Akoutan.--The summit of the volcano is usually ob-
scured by clouds or smoke. There is a village in the deep harbour on its
N.E. coast. Akoutan Strait has islets and rocks on either side, and in bad
weather the sea breaks right across.

Ounalga Island is comparatively low, with red cliffs. The opposite coast
of Ounalaska has dark cliffs, with a bright red horizontal vein in them.
Emjlish Bay, on this coast, forms a good harbour.

OUNALGA PASS has depths of 25 to 35 fathoms in mid-channel, and is
subject to occasional heavy squalls. The tides here run with great rapidity,
averaging 6^ knots, the flood setting North, and the ebb South; heavy tide-
races are formed where the streams reach deep water. It is, consequently,
advisable to use this channel only at or near slack water.

Pages 672, 074. — Egg Islet, or Ongalgan, lies off the North end of Biorka
or Spirkin Island, with a depth of 35 fathoms between. The two low rocks,
4 or 5 miles to the southward, are known as the Signals, and there is a
depth of 10 fathoms in the channel between them and the coast.

Page 673.— OUNALASKA. — Captain or Iliuliuk Bay.— A ridge of irregular
soundings extends acres;; between Pinnacle Rock, on the South side of
Summ.er Bay, and the spit on the East side of Dutch Harbour. Amogiiak
or Amaknak Island appears like a truncated pyramid at its North end,
when entering the bay. The best anchorage is in about 16 fathoms, 2 cables
north-eastward of the rocky islets at the entrance to Iliuliuk Harbour.

miles

ADDENDA.

Page 673. — Iliuliuk Harbour has a truding station on the coast, with a
wharf. Coal and water may be obtained here, with limited quantities of
preserved provisions. The only anchorage is in 10 fathoms, in the middle
of the harbour, in line with the South side of the wharf. A red spar buoy
marked the East end of a shoal off the eastern islet at the entrance, and a
barrel buoy marked a 3J-fathom3 shoal about 30 yards southward of the
spar buoy. The narrow channel between these and the village has about
5 fathoms least water.

DUTCH HAEBOUB has a trading station and village, with a custom-
house, on its South side, off which a jetty extends 300 ft. into 3^ and 4^
fathoms water, and large vessels can lie alongside. About 1,000 tons of
coal is stored here, and water can be obtained, with small supplies of pre-
served provisions. There is regular communication by steamer with Sitka.

It is high water, in Captain Bay, on full and change, at 3'' 50°, and the
extreme range of tide is 5 feet. There is, consequently, not much tidal
stream in the harbours.

Directions. — In approaching Captain Bay, give a berth of at least 1^ mile
to Cape Kaleakhta, the shoals off which will be cleared when Priest Bock
and the shore line to the southward are in line, but it is advisable to con-
tinue the same course until the South side of Summer Bay is open of the
South heed of Constantino Ray, when a S. f E. course will lead towards
Ulakhta Head, and may be followed until shortly after rounding Priest
Eock, when the houses in Iliuliuk may be seen and steered for.

In entering Dutch Harbour, round Spithead at a distance of 100 yards,
and anchor in 16 fathoms off the wharf. The best anchorage is nearer the
western shore of the bay, and nearly opposite Spithead.

Page 673. — Kaleakhta Bay, eastward of Cape Kaleakhta, has a waterfall
on its v.'estern side ; at 3 miles eastward of the cape is Erskine Point, off
which lies a rock somewhat similar to Priest Rock.

The Bay of Otters, or Beaver Inlet, lies between Biorka or Spirkin
Island and the N.E. coast of Ounalaska.

PoAje 674. — Ounalga Island, &c.— See the Addenda for pf,ge 672.

In 1895, the South coast of Ounalaska was reported to oxtend several
miles farther South than shown on the chart, and, being fronted by rocks,
it should be given a wide berth. About .5 miles wiChin the S.W. end is an
isolated conical peak, about 2,000 ft. high.

Chernofski Harbour is a deep inlet on the western coast of Ounalaska,
about 12 miles from the S.W. end. The entrance, between two low pro-
iiiontorios, is nearly half a mile wide, and within there is sheltered anchor-
age for vessels of the largest size, in depths under 20 fathoms. In the
northern angle of the bay is a village, with a white church, standing on a
shingle isthmus separating this part of the harbour from the sea. No sup-
plies could be obtained hei-e, except wildfowl, salmon, and trout, and
water could be had with difficulty from the stream running into the shallow
southern angle of the harbour.

Dirccllons, — In approaching from the northward, make Cape Neil Juan,
a high, bold promontory. Chernofski church is about 3 miles south-wosi-

■;''■■•?■

ADDENDA.

ward from this cape, and is a conspicuous mark ; a deep cut in the cliff,
about half a mile westward of the church, is also a good mark. Bound
East Point at a distance of not less than 2i cables, and steer in E.S.E. in
mid-channel, and rounding the low shingle point at the S.E. extremity of
the eastern promontory, anchor in 10 to 12 fathoms, mud, in mid-channel,
midway between the point and the church.

Makushin or Makouchinskoy Bay has a village, with a white church, in
the first inlet on the North side, off which there is good anchorage in 14
fathoms. Makushin Volcano rises to an elevation of 5,474 ft., at 6 miles
totheN.N.W.

Page 675. — OTTMNAE. — Cajje Sigak is now considered to be in about
lat. 52° 42' N., long. 168° 57' W., and to the S.S.W. of it is the low sandy
island of SamaUja, the channel between appearing dangerous. Vcevidoff
Volcano rises to an elevation of 7,236 ft., and there are no mountains be-
tween this and Cape Sigak, the land being hilly as far as Nikolski, and
then lower to the cape.

At 6 miles north-westward of Cape Sigak is Adugagh Island, about 100
feet high, and vessels are recommended not to use the channel between, as
there are numerous reefs, and the tides run strongly.

Nikolski, 14 miles N.E. by N. from Cape Sigak, is a village, with a
church, off which there is anchorage.

Bogosloff Islands. — A depth of 755 fathoms has been found midway be-
tween these islets and the North coast of Oumnak, with no trace of the
long reef reported. The islets are about 800 ft. high, 1|- mile apart, N.W.
and S.E., now separated by a navigable channel over the site of Shi}) Rock,
which has disappeared. New Bogoslojf or Greivingk, the N.W. islet, rose
from the sea in 1882, but appeared almost quiescent in 1895 ; a low spit
extends off the S.E. side, where landing may be effected. These islets are
frequented by sea-birds and sea-lions, and, when several miles to leeward
of them, a smell of sulphur and guano has been noticed. Constant changes
in the sea bottor' "poear to be going on around them.

Page 6' , ■-. -Vr, o" I our Mountains were examined in 1894 by the officers
of the U.S. v .' -oncord and. Conobi. They are uninhabited, and, as
stated by Liitke, are five in number, extending over an area of 29 miles,
N.E. by N. and S.W. by S., the only known danger being a breaking reef
reaching 1^ mile south-eastward from the S.E. point of Chuginadak, the
S.E. and largest island. At the western end of this island is a peak, rising
to an elevation of 8,150 ft., the highest point of the islands. The tidal
streams run strongly hereabout.

Younaska rises to an elevation of 2,864 ft., and, in 1895, was reported
to be charted 4 to 5 miles N.W. of its true position. The tidal streams
run with great violence in the channel between it and Amoughta. Tchcgoula
Island is 4,300 ft. high.

Amoughta rises to a peak, elevated 3,738 feet.

Page 677— FOX ISLANDS PASSES.— Sec the Addenda for page 071.

ADDENDA.

Page 677.— ANDREANOFF ISLANDS, and the islands westward of
them, are only approximately shown on the chart. They are now unin-
habited, though densely populated when first visited by the Eussians.

Segouam, or Siyuam, is reported to have rocks and discoloured water
extending 1^ mile off its East and West ends.

PoAjc 678.—At\siidL.—Nazan Bay, W.N.W. of the West end of Amlia,
affords anchorage in 10 fathoms, in its S.W. angle, sheltered by a group of
islands and rocks, off the only village in the island.

Page 681. — Goreloy or Burnt Island rises in a peak, elevated 5,334 feet.
Amatignak Island rises to an elevation of 1,'J21 ft., and, in 1895, was
reported to lie 4 miles South of its charted position.

Page 683. — Bouldyr rises to an elevation of 1,145 feet. Breakers have
been reported at about 10 miles E. by N. i N., and 12^ miles S. by E.^E.,
from its eastern < ui, us charted.

Agattou. — -. l!". 'e U.S.S. Albatross found anchorage in 15 fathoms,
sand, about \j ' 1. 1 z off shore, available in westerly winds, about 2 miles
south-westward cf tl>e N.E. cape, with Cone Peak bearing N.W.

ATTOU rises to an elevation of 3,084 ft., near its centre. A dangerous
15-ft. rock lios in the fairway of the entrance to Tschitscliagoff Bay, about
IJ mile from the flagstaff, which appears in line with Eange Point. Within
this are numerous rocks, and the depth shoals to a bar of 2 or 2^ fathoms,
within which vessels can lie in 6 fathoms and under, off the village at the
head of the bay. Good water can be obtained here.

Pa5re684.— BEHRING SEA.— See Addenda for p. 704. (Prybilov Islands).

Winds, tfc. — In Behring Sea, southerly winds are said to prevail in
spring, and northerly winds in the autumn. In summer, if the air be un-
usually clear, with a falling tiarometer, a strong S.E. gale, with rain,
almost invariably follows. The c ui-ents depend much upon the prevailing
winds, the set being chiefly to 'j" arthward.

Ice. — In winter, according < > a ror it issued by the U.S. Hydrographic
Office, the general contour I r,bv. S0')5liern ice limit in Behring Sea is from
Bristol Bay to about 35 milts staU.v.iird of the Prybilov Islands, and then
to the N.W. towards Cape Oir j. nsk' . Many years ago, ice is said to
have descended to Ounalaska, and i . .-anuary, 1878, it reached Ounimak
Pass and Akoutan Island. In some seasons, no ice is seen at the Prybilov
Islands, where broken floe ice m usually found from December to May.
Heavy solid ice is not met with ff.r southward of St. Matthew Island.

At St. Michael's, Norton Sou'ici, ice ceases to form at the beginning of
May, but vessels are not expedited to reach the settlement till June 10-15 ;
the earliest recorded arrival was May 25, 1875. Navigation is again closed
al)out the middle of Octob'"

Page 685. — Amak Islau. i~ J ,GH2 ft. high, and its South end is now con-
sidered to bo in long. 1(33'^ 7' i-' r<. Kocks extend from it to Sivoutchij
liuck, and dangers are said to '•taoh 5 miles eastward of its South end.

Nc'th Pacific Addenda. 8

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ADDENDA.

Parjc G86. — MOLLER BAT. — The S.E. aw^le is known a^ TTcrendcn Bay,
and on its eastern shore is a deposit of bituminous coal, which has been
worited. (See the Addenda for Portage Bay, page 667).

Parjc 688. — BRISTOL BAT. — Large salmon canneries have been esta-
blished near the trading station of Tahlekuk or Fort Alexander, on both
sides of the entrance of the Jiivcr Nouchagak. The approaches are encum-
bered with shoals, but good pilots can be obtained to take vessels inside.
Cape Constantine is new considered to be in lat. 58° 25' N., long. 158° 40' E,

lionnd Island lies 11 miles off shore, and midway between it and Hage-
meister Island is a group of islands and rocks, apparently connected with
the latter island by shoal water. There is a passage northward of these
to Togiak Baij, which can also be approached i > ; he channel westward of
Hagemeister Island. A 3-fathoms shoal lies at ? ilea S.W. by W.

from the southern end of this island.

Page 689. — Kuskoquim River is navigable for vessels of shallow draught
for about 500 miles from its mouth. The tide is said to rise 50 ft. in its
entrance, which is filled with mud-flats at low water, and here is a great
salmon fishery in the summer. There are numerous villages and trading
stations on its banks.

Pages 689-690.— NUNIVAK ISLAND rises to an elevation of about 500
feet, and is said to be incorrectly delineated on the charts. It is covered
with grass, being bare, of trees, and its shores are mostly low, with occa-
sional clilfs 100 to 150 ft, high. The coast consists of shallow bays, be-
tween low rocky headlands, fronted by islets and reefs reaching some miles
seaward, and breaking heavily. There is a lagoon at its southern end.
In 1890, the inhabittints numbered about 700. In 1897, Captain Higgins
steamed along the S.W. coast, and found the distance by log to be 53 miles
between the S.E. and N. W. points. Cai)e Etoline is in about lat. 60°25J' N.,
long. 166'^ %h' W., and on it is the village of Koot, the principal place in
the island. There are said to be several reefs between the island and the
coast, and the tides run strongly in this channel. Depths of 4J to 9
fathoms are said to extend 12 to 15 miles ofi" tiie West coast, and breakers
have been seen 6 or 7 miles off the southern extremity of the island. A
shoal, 3 miles long, with 10 ft. over it, is reported to lie 5 miles off the
N.W. coast.

In 1889, Capt. Smith, of the Bahna, reported a 2^-fathoms shoal about
12 miles South of the principal peak of Nunivak, and was of the opinion
that this shoal extends to the north-westward along the coast of the island.

Southward of Cape Vancouver is the village of Dununuk, with a mission
station and trading store.

Pages 691-692.— TUKON RIVER, as already stated on page 1, forms
the easiest but longest means of approach, both for passengers and cargo,
to the goldfields around the upper part of its course. Considerable atten-
tion has been given to this river by the Canadian and United States sur-
veyors, so that this region is now fairly weii known. Taking either the

ADDENDA.

Polly Eiver or Lewis Elver as its source, its length is estimated to bo from
2,500 to 2,800 miles, of which 2,300 miles are navigable by river steamers.
At the junction of the Polly and Lewis Rivers, about 1,850 miles from the
mouth, the river is about three-quarters of a mile in width, and this can
be reached by 400-ton stern- wheel vessels, drawing 4 ft., and smaller
vessels can ascend 300 miles beyond this, to Lake Teslin ( see the Addenda
for page 602). At Fort Yukon, near the Arctic Circle, the river is about 8
miles in width. Dawson City, at the mouth of the famous Klondijke
River, is about 1,570 miles up the Yukon, and is reached by the steamers
from St. Michael's in from 14 to 16 days.

The river delta has a sea-face of about 100 miles, and there is no known
suitable location for a to\,'n at its entrance, owing to the land being all
overflowed annually on the breaking up of the ice. Neither is there any
safe anchorage off it, owing to the wide extent of shallow and uneven
ground. Ocean-going vessels, consequently, transfer their passengers and
cargo at St. Michael's into the river steamers.

The head of the delta is about 100 miles from the sea, and for some 200
or 300 miles above this the river is many miles in width, appearing like a
sea of yellow water.

The Aphoon Mouth, about 80 miles southward of St. Michael's, still
remains the only approach to the main stream, and is said to have only
8 ft. water in it. It is narrow and intricate, and easily to be distinguished
by the trees on its banks, whereas the other mouths are wider but shallower,
with little or no vegetation, and blocked by bars and driftwood.

Ice. — As a rule, it is not safe to enter Norton Sound much before July,
on account of the ice, which forms again early in October. In 1889, drift-
ice was met with off the northern shore so late as July 11. The position
of the ice depends greatly upon the prevailing wind and the current from
the river, and the ice is sufficiently heavy to require caution on the part of
vessels not fitted to encounter it. (See, also, the Addenda for page 684).

Mr. Ogilvie, the Canadian surveyor, states that the river does not become
open for navigation before July 1, as a rule, and becomes frozen up again
by October 1.

Tides. — In Norton Sound the usual range of tide is about 3 ft., but it is
much affected by the winds ; a strong gale from the southward may cause
a rise of 8 to 10 ft., while a strong northerly gale may cause a fall of the
same amount.

Paije 692. — Stuart Island is said to be incorrectly delineated upon the
chart, and has a low flat-topped hill in its centre.

On August 27, 1897, Captain J. F. Higgins reported that his steamer
Excelsior grounded on a shoal of hard sand, with 10 ft. least water, about
10 miles westward of Stuart Island, or in lat. 63'' 42' N., long. 164° 10' W.
It continued shallow for 3 miles to the N.W., but deepened quickly to tho
eastward and N.E. He considered it to have been recently formed, pro-
liably by the action of ice.

Capt. Higgins gives his opinion that it is not safe to pass in or out of
Norton Sound, South of the parallel of 64' N. To East of long. 164" W. in

ii^>^■■:tol'j

f\0

ADDENDA.

tho sound, there is no (greater depth than 10 fathoins, and between Golov-
nino Bay and Stuart Island there are spots with only 7 fathoms on them.
Ho also states that North of the Yukon, on the lino of the immense body
of ice which passes out of the river, the bottom changes from year to year,
and is very lumpy, ho having found, in June, 181)7, while dodging along
the ice, spots with but 17 ft. on them, alternating with depths of 6 fathoms.
Ho has Been large ice floes aground in 8 and 9 fathoms, and, with the
water full of sand during tiie spring and summer freshets, a shoal can bo
quickly formed about one of the floes. Between the mouth of the Yukon
and Cape Nome, the soundings may be expected to vary considerably from
year to year.

Par/es 692-G93 — ST. MICHAEL'S has now become a very busy place
during the open season, from June to October, but there is no harbour, in
the proper sense of the word, the anchorage being unsafe in bad weather,
both from want of protection and the shoal water. The depth at the usual
places of anchorage ranges from 3 to 4^ fathoms, the latter depth being at
a distance of lA mile from the landing. When a sea arises, vessels find it
often necessary to shift anchorage farther out, or leave altogether.

Directions. — In addition to Capt. Higgins' advice, as given above, wo
here give the directions recommended by the oflicers of the U.S.S. Thetis,
in 1890 : — In approaching Norton Sound and St. Michael's, from the south-
ward, a good berth should bo given to the mud-flats and shoals making out
from the delta of the Yukon. Vessels should keep outside the depth of 7
fathoms, as it shoals rapidly, and there are lumps reported as forming.
The host course is to steer for Cape Nome, from a position between Capo
Smitli and the S.E. capo of St. Lawrence Island. When within 10 miles
of Capo Nome, stand to the eastward along the northern shore, until Capo
Darby i^' righted, and then steer for I'jgg Island, off St. Michael's.

Tile 1)1 i, guides for St. Michael's and its anchorage are Egg Island and
two low rounded mountains, or hills, known as the Sisters. E(jij Island
is a small low flat island, sloping from a moderate bluff to a low point at
tlio eastern extremity. The general course from Egg Island to St. Michael's
anciiorage is <S'. 3G" W, (true), and the bearing of the Sisters from Egg
Island is S. 8° \V. The soundings from Egg Island to the usual anchorage
run very evenly; 7 fathoms is found off" the island, decreasing to G and then
G fathoms, until the anchorage is readied, 8 miles distant from Egg Island,
witli a depth of 4i^ to 4 fathoms, mud.

In 18'.)G, tlie U.S. surveyors reported there was from 3 to G ft. loss water
in the harbour than shown on the chart.

Pmjc G94. — Golovnine Bay.— In 1893, the steamer Bertha anchored in 4
fathoms, close westward of an islet, on the I'jast side of the bay, 7 or 8
miles within Cape Darby. On Fish liivcr, 40 miles from the sea, is a
deposit of silver-lead ore.

PiKjc G95. — Aziak, or .S7cr/f/e Island. — The U.S.S. Thetis found a least
depth of GA fathoms in the channel between this island and the coast.

Pdj/i

who h(

The T

Spenco

the ma

sand, a

souther

varies v

Orant

Direc

distingu

steer foi

keep alo

Page 'i
by the ci
found th)
off shore,
beacon b(

Page 'i
Palena, t
about 10
of this p(
wintering

In 1889
bank, in h
water fart

Page 7(
Lncrctia, i
western en
and the rei

Page IQi
ftiw patche
census in 1
111 1888, Cf
oir the S.E

Page 703

ahnost cons

aspect, the

vicinity, dri

U.S.S. Thet

s'lipo and dt

Tlie range

an I lour, floe

('ai)e Upri

'I'iio Thetis u

ADDENDA.

Piujc OOG.— PORT CLARENCE is now lar^'oly used by the Arctic whalerH,
who here await the annual visit of the relief steamer from San Francisco.
The TJictis found the best anchorage in 4if fathoms, just inside Point
Spencer, and under the lee, in case of southerly winds, of a shoal spit from
the main spit of the point. The holding ground is good, mud and fine
sand, and there is good protection from northerly winds, but poor from
southerly and westerly gales. There is some little range of tide, which
varies with the wind as in Norton Sound. Fresh water can be obtained.

Grantley Harbour will admit vessels drawing less than 12 feet.

Directions. — In thick weather, the spit of Point Spencer is not easily
distinguishable. In coming ' 'An the southward, the safest course is to
steer for Cape York, giving the coast a berth of at least 2 miles, and then
keep along shore to the eastward to the entrance of the harbour.

Page 700. — Icy Cape. — In 188!), a mast beacon, 26 ft. high, was erected
by the crew of the U.S.S. Thetis, about 3J miles S.W. of the cape. It was
found that the S.W. side of Blossom Shoals extended about 2 miles farther
off shore, and 2^ miles farther to the S.W., than shown on the chart. The
beacon bearing .S'. 36" E. (true) leads clear of the S.W. side.

Page 700.— POINT BARROW.— In 1890, Capt. Smith, of the whaler
Balena, reported that Owen Shoal, of 3\ fathoms, shown on the charts at
about 10 miles N. ^ E. from this point, does not exist. Vessels eastward
of this point, after the first week in September, must be prepared for
wintering.

In 1889, Capt. McGregor, of the whaler Narwhal, reported a 12-fathom8
bank, in lat. 71" 64' N., long. 161" 10' W., and considered there was shoaler
water farther westward.

Page 701.— Herald Island.— In 1889, (Japt. Whiteside, of the whaler
Lncrctia, reported that his vessel was lost on a reef extending from the
western end, at a point 6 miles S.W. by W. from the northern extreme,
and the reef appeared to extend much farther westward.

Page 702.— ST. LAWRENCE ISLAND consists of granitic rocks, with a
few patches of moorland and grass. The natives numbered 207 at the
census in 1890 ; they subsist by the chase of bear, fox, reindeer, seal, Ac.
Ill 1888, Capt. Smith, of the Balena, reported a shoal of 3 fathoms, or less,
utT the S.E. cape.

Page 703.— ST. MATTHEW ISLAND is uninhabited. It appears to bo
almost constantly enveloped in fog, and has a cheerless and inhospitable
aspect, the climate being cold and damp. Heavy ice is met with in its
vicinity, drifting on to it with the prevailing winds. When visited by the
U.S.S. Thetis, in June, 1889, no bears were seen, only a few foxes with
biiipe and duck. Fresh water is abundant.

The range of tide is about 4 ft., and the streams run from 1 to 2\ knots
an hour, flood to the eastward, and ebb to tiie westward.

Ciilie (//;»'tj//t< has a solitary rock, about 25 ft. high, off its extremity.
Tlio Thclls anchored in V2\ fathoms, sand, in the bight westward of the

ill'."''

p.: !,t- •■,,;, 'V

ijV>

ri'ii'-

});

'<\ IF

ADDENDA.

first high headland north-westward of ('apo Upright, k'V'"K "• K"od hurth
to tho low rockH off the headland. TIero there is ^ood prolnct.ioii frotti
southerly winds between H.W. and S.H., and landiiij^' can bo effected on
tho beach. In tho vicinity are some lakes of fresh water.

With northerly winds, anchorage can be ol)tained off tho South sido of
tho island.

A small islet was shown on some charts about H miles northward of tho
eastern part of the island, but its existence is extremely doubtful.

Pdtje 704. — Ilall hland is frequented by sea-birds, and there is anchorage
in the l)ight on its Hast sido. Snri/tcheff Strait \h said to be clear of danger,
hut there are rocks on either sido. Tho tidal streams run strongly in this
vicinity.

PtJinacle Island, as seen from the eastward, appears like two rounded
hills, with small pinnacle rocks off tho N.VV. end.

Page 704.~PRYBILOV ISLANDS havo been tho focus of uuich con-
tention between tho British and United States authorities rcigarding tho
pelagic or deep-sea seal fishery. The Russian ai Anuirican (Governments
practically contended that JJehring Sea belon,, d solely to those two
nations, but, on this question being submitted toari)itration, the arbitrators,
assembled at Paris, on August 10, IH'J'S, decided mainly in favour v i (ireat
Britain, this sea being declared open to the vessels of all nations. Thus,
neither Russia nor the United States have by right any exclusive privileges
beyond tho limits of the usual nuirine league from their shores.

Tho Britisli and American (jovermnents, however, havo agreed to alto-
gether prohibit the chase of the fui seal within a zone of GO geographic
miles from any part of the islands ; and it is also forbidden from May 1 to
July 31, both inclusive, over tho wide area bounded on the South by the
parallel of .'JO" N. from the coast as far as the meridian of IHO ', aiul on the
West by this meridian as far North as GO" 40" N., whence the boundary is
a line to lat. 0-5" 30' N., long. IGK" 4'/ W., in Beluing Strait, and thence
on this meridian to the northward. In the open season, only sailing vessels
may be employed in this pursuit.

Both nations employ cruisers to prevent infraction of these regulations,
the object of which is to avoid the extinction of these animals, by afford-
ing them a close time during the breeding season.*

In May, 1890, the U.S. Government granted a 20 years lease of the
right to kill seals on these islands to the North American Commercial
Company, the annvial take being limited to 100,000 skins, or 70,000 on
St. Paul Island, and 20,000 on St. George.

There are several anchorages around the islaiuls, but vessels should not
attempt to ride out a gale, unless lying to leeward, and well sheltered. A

• By an Act of CongroHS, dated Docombcr 29, 1897, citizoiiH of tho United States are
prohibited at all timet* from tlio chaso of tlio fur-HOivl in tho waters of tlie I'aeilio Ocean
Nortli of tho parallel of 35" N., includitig Holiring Sea and tho Hea of UkhotHk. TIiIh
Act, however, does not apply to tho regulations concerning tho taking of seals on the
I'lvhilov Islandn.

AI)l)FiNM)A.

hoavy Burf soon risos on tlui woiitlior nido with hucIi wIihIh, rendering
lati(1in<4 (linicult or (lun^orouH.

Tides, dc. — The ciirnsiits around tho JHlands are very Htroii^ and uncer-
tain, hoinf^ greatly inlluonced by tho wind. It is high water, on full and
ehan^^n, at about .0'' .'JO'", and tho range is about 3 feet. Normally, tho
flood Htreani HotH eaHtward, and the ebb westward, with a niaxiniuni Burfuco
rate of 2^ knots, but behiw tho Hurfaco it has been found to run much
faster.

I'a(je.H 705-700.-81. GEORGE ISLAND sliouhl not bo approached within
a depth of 12 fathoms. Ihlnol Point, tho western extreme, is a precipitous
elilT, and tide-rips aro some.times met witli off it. Zapadniv. liaij affords
good shelter from K.N.H. winds; a reef extends about 2^ cables off' its
southern shore. Tiio village, on the North coast, contained 93 inhabit-
ants at tho census in iHiK), and is now considered to be in lat. 56" 3(i' .30" N.,
long. 10!)" 32' 15" W. ; a red house in lino witli tho flagstaff loads to tho
anchorage off it. The beach is fronted by thick kelp, and landing is only
possible with smooth water, when a flag is shown on the llagstatT.

In 1H94, tho IJ.S.H. (Umcord anchored on a patch of 17 fathoms, sand,
7i^ miles N.K. by I']. J H. from Tolstoi Point, tho western extremity of tho
island. A 3-fatli()ms patch, with kelp on it, has also been reported to lie
about 9 miles eastward of tlio same point.

Two islands have been reported to lie to tho southward and south-woat-
ward of tho l'ryl)ilov Islands, but their existence is so extremely doubtful
that they have becsn removed from the charts.

Paije 70(J.— ST. PAUL ISLAND is 12 miles in extent, N.K. and S.W.,
and 4 miles across where widest, rising at its western end to an elevation
of G33 feet. At tlio census in IHiiO, the village contained 244 inhabitants,
of whom only 22 were whites. Under favourable conditions, boats can
land in Village Cove, northward of tlie village near the southern point, or
on tho shore near Black Bluffs, eastward of the village ; also at tho
western extremity of Lukannon Bay, and on both sides of the island,
abreast Cross Hill.

Hutchinson Hill, tho N.E. extreme of tlic island, is connected with it by
a low narrow isthmus, known as Sea Lion Neck. Tho hill is fronted by
rocks, marked by kelp ; one, of 3 fathoms, lies nearly 1 mile N. by W, ^ W.
from the shore, and another i'\ mile i'l.S.E. of the eastern point. In 1H95,
a depth of 7 fathoms was found ofT tho North shore, about 3 miles
H.W. by W. ^ W. from the iiill, and tliero may bo less water hereabout.

Reef Point is now considered to bo in lat. 57" G' 30" N., long. 170" 20' W.,
and should bo very cautiously approached in thick weather. Masters of
passing vessels are retjuested not to disturb the seals hero by firing guns,
or making any unnecessary noise.

The usual anchorage is in Enijlish Buy, in 10 to 4 fathoms, off Village
Cove, or off Black Bluffs, according to tho wind. A flag is shown on tho
side an approaching vessel should anchor, and is then hauled down if land-

und the island, as shown

nig be unsafe
on the chart.

rages

Xiii

'■'' 1

^''. i-;'

\ (•

•' !■

1 1

\K\4

ADDENDA.

S. W. Point has a reef extending about 1 mile off it, and just to the east-
ward of it are some remarkable white patches on the cliffs.

Otter or Bobrovi Island has two small craters on its East end, whence
the land rises gradually to its West end, which is high and cliffy. Foul
ground, with breakers, extends from 5 to 7^ cables around its western
part, its North side being clear of danger. There is anchorage in 9^ fathoms,
sand, about half a mile N. by W. from Crater Point. In 1893, the U.S.S.
Albatross made an unsuccessful search for the breakers reported to lie
between this island and Beef Point, a depth of 26 fathoms being found at
If mile N. by E. from the island.

Pa^e 707. — Morjovi or Walrus Island has a breaking reef extending about
2^ cables South of it. This and Otter Island must be very cautiously
approached in thick weather.

Offlying Beefs. — In 1896, the U.S.S. Cortvin found a depth of 35 fathoms
in the position of the 5-fathoms shoal said to lie 7^ miles westward of the
high bluff at the western end of St. Paul Island. Overfalls and swirls were
noticed hereabout.

In 1894, the U.S.S. Ranger made an unsuccessful search for the kelp
bank said to lie about 16 miles E.N.E. of Hutchinson Hill, depths of 28 to
34 fathoms, sand, being found around the given position.

The rock or shoal, said to lie about 90 miles N.E. by E. \ E. from the
N.E. point of St. Paul Island, was searched for in vain by the U.S.S.
Thetis in 1889, and other authorities also deny its existence.

! K S

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TatDosh I. ji AjreJ Uffht atj6t A. vuriMe to miles
NewDungeness.^/iiK^ Uflht at2COir.visi4 m.
Smithl. JrpniAwi? Ughtevay-k minat90A.visj5ni

il I \^

AI>MlRAI.r

3iO' 1?4"

I . ■

THE STIIAIT OF JUAN DE FUCA.

831

family. The numerous streams emptying upon the coast afford them a never-
failing supply of the finest salmon ; and to obtain means of barter with white
traders, they fearlessly attack and capture the different spcuies of whale on the
coast.

THE STRAIT OF JUAN DE FUCA.

The discovery of tins important strait was the subject of much controversy ,
It was attributed, in a narrative published in Purchas's Pilgrims, to a Greek
pilot, known as Juan dc Fuea, but whose real name was Apostolos Valerianos.
He related that he found, in 1592, a channel here leading from the Pacific into
the Atlantic, which was then named the Strait of Anian. Much doubt was
thrown on this statement, and, by a singular fatality, its entrance was passed
unperceivod by Cook and others, so that these uncertainties seemed to be con-
firmed, and the strait was not re-discovered till Capt. Ivendriok entered it in
the American sloop Washington, in 1789. It was well surveyed by Captain
Georf^e Vancouver in 1792, and the very singular character of the inlets
diverging from it to the S.E. was then first ascertained. The shores of the
strait were surveyed by Captain (afterwards Admiral) H. Kellett, in the
Herald, in 1847, and to the S.E. of the strait, Vancouver's work was re-
examined by Commodore Wilkes, U.S.N., who found but little to correct.
More compiv-^te surveys of some of the ports, &c., have been made by the oflTicers
of the U.S. Coast Survey, since their occupation of Washington Territory, and
it is to the last-named authorities that we owe most of the subsequent descrip-
tion of the South side of the channel, leaving that of the opposite shore of
Vancouver Island for the ensuing chapter. Wo have also derived some of the
following from the accounts given by Capt. G. H. Richards, R.N., and from
various other sources up to the present time.

From its geographical position, the strait is liable to all those sudden vicissi-
tudes of weather common to high northern latitudes ; and in few parts of the
world is the caution and vigilance of the navigator more called into action than
in entering it.

The breadth of the strait between Capo Flattery, its southern point, and
Bonilla Point, Vancouver Island, its northern, i.« 13 miles ; within those points
it soon narrows to 1 1 miles, and carries this breadth on an East course for 40
miles, or until Race Islands bear N.E. by E., distant 10 miles ; it then takes
an E.N.E. direction for a further distance of 14 miles to the shore of the con-
tinent, or more jiroperly Whidbey Island-
Between Race Islands and the southern shore the breadth of the strait is
8 miles, after which it immediately expands to 17 miles, leading northward to
North Pacific, 2 x

-:~.v<VV--*«*f%r^^if^^

928

THE STRAIT OF JUAN DB FUCA.

]'■ i

the British possessions by various channels among the labyrinth of islands
known as the Haro Archipelago, and southward to those of tho United States,
by Admiralty Inlet and Puget Sound.

The coasts of Juan de Fuca Strait are bold, abrupt, and covered with a heavy
growth of timber and bush. They are remarkably free from danger, and may
be approached safely within half a mile ; but there is one breaking rock which
lies nearly that distance off the West point of Crescent Bay on the southern
shore. The soundings in the centre are of groat depth, but within IJ mile
of either shore there is generally under 40 fathoms. On both sides of tho
strait there arc several anchorages or stoj)piTig places which may bo taken
advantage of hy vessels, either inward or outward bound, when meeting
with adverse winds, ilooky shoals and dangers are usually well marked by
kelp.

On tho northern or Vancouver Island shore of the strait tho hills rise gra-
dually, and arc densely wooded, but near the coast attain to no great elevation.
On the southern side the almost perpetually snow-clad mountains, known as
the Olympian range, rise more abruptly, and vary in elevation from 4,000 to
more than 6,500 ft. ; but, though oxoeedingly grand in their rugged outline,
present no very marked summits as seen from the strait, nor any great variety
in their features.

Tides. — It is high water at Capo Flattery, on full and cliange, at noon and
at midnight. In the outer part of Juan do Fuca Strait there is no very great
strength of tide ; it varies from 1 to 4 knots, seldom so much as tho latter, un-
less near Cape Flattery ; but when approaoliing the more contraowd part in
the neighbourhood of Kaoc Isl;uif1«, which ici^eives the first rush of tlie pent-
up waters of the Strait of Georgia, strengthened and diverted by the labyrinth
of islands which choke up its southern entrance, it is not surprising that eddies,
races, and irregularities occur, which almost baffle any attempt at framing
laws which may not rather embarrass than assist the seaman. The result,
however, of observations continued throughout an entire j-oar at Esquimalt,
and partially on other parts of tho coast during three seasons, appears to
warrant the following conclusions, viz. : —

The flood tide sets to the northward along the outer coast of the continent
and Vancouver Island. It enters the Strait of Juan do Fuca at (.^apo Flattery,
running with considerable velocity, sometimes 3 or 4 knots ovci- Duncan and
Duntze Eocks ; it then turns sharply into the strait, passing through the va-
rious channels among tho Ilaro Archipelago into tho Strait of Georgia, and
within about 5 miles of Cape Mudge, where it is met by tho flood from tho
northward, which, sweeping the western coast of Vancouver Island, enters
Goletas Channel and Queen Ciiarlottc Sound at its northern extreme, in lat.
61", thence southerly down the narrow waters of Johnstone Strait and Dis-
covery Passage, meeting t)ie tide which enters by Fuca Strait, and reaches
about midway between the northern and southern cxtrcmca of Vancouver

THE STRAIT OF JUAN DE FUCA.

323

Island, or close to the spot where the broad expanse of the Strait of Georgia
merges into the narrow channels adjoining it.

On the western side of the island the tides were found to be regular, nor is
any marked irregularity observable in Johnstone Strait and Discovery Passage.
The great and perplexing tidal irregularities may therefore be said to be em-
braced between the Strait of Fuca, near Race Islands, and Cape Mudge, a
distance of 1 50 miles ; and a careful investigation of the observations made at
J'squimalt, and among the islands of the Haro Archipelago, shows that during
the summer months, May, June, and July, there occurs but one high and one
low water dm-ing the 21 hours, high water at the full and change of the
moon happening about midnight, and varying but slightly from that hour
during any day of the three months; the springs range from 8 to 10 ft,, the
neaps from 4 to 5 ft. The tides arc almost stationary for two hours on either
side of high or low water, unless affected by stron j; winds outside.

During August, September, and October, there are two high and low waters
in the twenty-four hours ; u superior and an inferior tide, the high water of the
superior tide varying between 1'' and 3'' a.m., the range during these months
from 3 to 5 ft., the night tide the highest.

During winter almost a i-eversul of these rules n|ipears to take place; thus,
in November, December, and January, the 12-hour tides again occur, but the
time of high water is at or about noon instead of midnight.

In February, March, and April, there are two tides, the superior high water
occurring from P to 3^ p.m. Thus it may be said that in summer months the
water is low during the day, and in winter low during the night.

The ebb stream has always been foimd to run southward through the Hnio
Archipelago, and out of Fuca Strait for 2^ hours after it is low water by the
shore, the water rising during that time ; the ebb is stronger than the Hood,
and generally two hours longer duration.

Xlie tides during those months, when two high and two low waters occur in
the twenty -four hours, are far move irregular than when there is only one 12-
hour tide, and another anomaly exists, viz., tlie greatest range not unfrcqueutly
occurs at the first and last quarters, instead of at the full and change of the
moon.

Some remarks on the Winds, Currents, &c., will he found in Chapter VT, at
the cominenccmcnt of the description of Vatu^ouvcr Island.

Soundings. — lietweentho parallels of 48" and I'.) the 100-fathoms bank ex-
tends for 32 miles off shore ; and for C) or 6 miles on either side of the parallel
of 48" 30', which pa.sses through the centre of Juau dc Fuca Strait, no greater
deptli than o.O fathoms is fo\md at the distance of -10 mile.s from the entrance.
Steering for the strait within these limits of latitude, viz., a few miles on cither
side of 48^ 30', from o5 to 60 fathoms will be carried for 20 miles, the bottom
fine dark sand, sometimes varied by gravel and snuiU stones, when it will deepen
to 80 and 90 fathoms, generally muddy bottom, for a farther distance of 10

V * ■'

1 .} I

.-.>jf *:^ j»I

■- ■■ • SI

324

THE STRAIT OF JUAN DE FUCA.

miles ; a vessel will then be within 8 or 10 miles of the strait : if to the north-
ward of 48^ 30' the water should shoal to 36 and 40 fathoms, rocky or gravel
bottom ; if to the southward it will continue deep, and will increase to more
than 100 fathoms, when within 8 or 9 miles of Cape Flattery.

Tlie outer edge of the bank is rather steep, falling from 90 to 150 fathoms,
and then no bottom with the ordinary line. There is one peculiarity which
should not pass unnoticed ; the deep channel of over 100 fathoms, which runs
through the centre of the strait, on entering the ocean is deflected to the
southward, probably owing to the superior strength of the ebb stream and the
southerly current, and a zone of deep water about 3 miles in width, with from
140 to 150 fathoms, extends in that direction to the 48° parallel ; between it
and the shore, a distance of about 8 miles, the depth decreases suddenly to 30
fathoms, fine dark saud, and immediately outside it from 07 to 80 fathoms will
be found.

Mr. Ocorge Davidson, of the U.S. Coast Survey, states that durihg dry
summers the Indians and settlers set fire to the forests in every direction, and
the country soon becomes enveloped in a vast smoke, which lasts for two or
three months. At such times it ii frequently impossible u* make out the shore
at half a mile distance.

In summer the prevailing wind draws into the strait, increasing towards
evening, and frequently blowing a 10-knot breeze before midnight ; but, unless
the wind is strong outside, little is felt in the strait, and very frequently sail-
. ing vessels are a week from Cape Flattery to Admiralty Inlet, or vice versa
In winter the S.E. winds draw directly out, and create a very heavy cross-sea
off the entrance, the great S.W. swell meeting that rolling out. In such cases
trading vessels try to gain Nee-ah Bay or San Juan Harbour, and remain at
anchor until the wind changes. In beating in or out, vessels may run as close
under either shore as winds and currents warrant.

Direetions. — Vessels bound for Fuca Strait from the southward or westward,
except the coasting steamers which all carry pilots, shouhl make Cape Flattery;
there is no inducement to hug the coast, on which a long rolling swell fre-
quently sets; and this swell, meeting the south-easterly gales of winter, causes
a confused sea. The cape and its off-lying rocks should not be approached
within a distance of at least 3 miles. It is equally necessary, either in enter-
ing or leaving the strait, to avoid the Vancouver coast between Port San
Juan and Bonilla Paint, when there is any appearance of bad weather.

It is recommended to pass at the distance of at least 10 miles from the coast,
unless working to windward ngainst a fine northerly wind, when it may be
safely approached within 3 miles.

To vessels making the strait in bad weather, it will bo more desirable to run
in and seek shelter than to remain outside. If the land has been made on either
side, within a moderate distance of the entrance, or if the latitude can be relied
upon within 2 or 3 miles, it will be advisable to run for the strait. The

CAPE FLATTERY.

325

powerful light on Tatouch Islnnd, off Cape Flattery, will, unless in very thick
weather, be seen at a considerable distance, and ns soon as a vessel is
actually within the strait she will have comparatively smooth water, witii
sufficient sea room, and may either run boldly up the centre for the light on
Eacc Islands, or maintain her position in the entrance by the assistance of
Tatouch Island light. The latter light becomes sliut in by the land when
bearing westward of W.S.W., and Kace Islamls light is obscured by Ucechcy
Head when bearing eastward of E. by N. I N.

In approaching from the westward with a heavy westerly or N.W. gale,
thick weather, and uncertain of the latitude, it would be ])iudcnt to lay by at
not less than SO miles from the entrance to 'he strait, or on the edge of the
bank of soundings. These gales seldom last more than 12 hours, and if they
veer towards the S.W., the weather will clear, and a vessel may immediately
bear up for the strait.

With a S.E. gale it is recommended to close the land, smoother water will he
obtained, and the bank of soundings off the Vancouver Island shore will give
a vessel pretty acciuatcly her distance from the land. Gales from this quarter
sometimes continue in the winter season for 30 hours, and when a vessel
strikes soundings on the edge of the bank in 90 fathoms and carries them
into CO, she may put her bead to the S.W., aud will have plenty of room
for drift.

It is of great importance in making the strait during bad weather to strike
the outer edge of the bank of soundings, as the ship's distance from the land
will then be accurately known. It has been already observed that after
running 20 miles eastward the depth increases from 55 to 90 fathoms, which,
if the lead has not been kept previously going, might be mistaken for the
outer edge.

Should a sailing vessel be overtaken by a dense fog, she should not close the
land, but stand off sufficiently far to avoid being set by the southerly current
too near Gape Flattery. A steamer, having sighted the light or land, and
certain of her position, should get the Vancouver shore aboard, and may feel
her way in by the chart and lead. At 8 or 10 miles eastward of I'ort San
Juan there is anchorage in 12 fathoms, a mile from shore, and if the fog is
very dense a stranger should anchor. It must be remarked, however, that not
unfrequently the weather is clear a few miles within the strait, while the
entrance is totally obscured.

CAPE FLATTEEY or Classet is a remarkable point of land, and distinctly
seen at a distance of 35 miles, rising gradually from the sea to a thickly-
wooded mountain nearly 2,000 ft. high, with an irregular shaped summit, and
falling again at the distance of 3 or 4 miles to the eastward. When seen
from the southward or S.W. it has the appearance of an island, being separated
by a stretch of low land from hills of the same or greater elevation, which rise
again immediately southward of it.

326

THE STRAIT OF JUAN DE FUCA.

On a ncnrcr view, the headland itself, with its wild off-lying rocks, over
which the sea is almost constantly hreaking, presents no inviting ai)pearanee.
It is a rugged sea-worn cliff, about 100 ft. high, and rising gradually to its
more prominent feature, a densely wooded mountain. From the capo the
coast trends E.N.E. for 4 miles to Nceah Bay, and though no positive dangers
e.\ist half a mile from the shore eastward of the cape, there is generally a
heavy swell with irregular tides, and vessels are by no means recommended to
approach it within a mile. The current sometimes runs 3 knots an hour.

Tatouch or Tatoosh Island, lying W.N.W. half a milo from Capu Flattery,
consists of several small rocky islets, bare of trees, and connected by reefs. It
is half a mile in length W.N.W. and E.S.E., and rises to a height of 108 ft.,
the sides being perpendicular. A reef is said to extend a (juarter of a mile off
the W^est side. Between it and the cape there is a reef, on which the sea
breaks heavily in bad weather. A leaning rocky column, about 140 ft. high,
and 50 ft. in diameter, is seen to the S.E. close under the cape. It is some-
times called Dc Fuca's Pillar or Pinnacle Hock.

The LIOHTHOTTSE, known among seamen as Cape Flattery light, stands
on the summit of Tatouch Island, which, with its outlying reef, is the most
western portion of the United States. It consists of a keeper's dwelling of
stone, with a tower of brick, whitewashed, 04 ft. high, and shows n fixed bright
light of the first order, elevated 1G2 ft., which in clear weather should be seen
from a distance of It) miles, so that a vessel from the southward will make it
before being up with Flattery Rocks. In foggy weather a steam Fog Whistle
sounds a blast of 8 seconds at intervals of 32 seconds. Its position io lut.
48" 23' 15" N., long. 124° 41' 40" W.

Duncan Rock, rather more than a mile N.W. by N. from Tatouch Island
lighthouse, is a small low black rock, a few feet above water, but the sea
always breaks over it. There is deep water between it and the island, but
vessels are recommended not to take the passage unless compelled to do so.

Duntze Rock, with 3 fathoms water on it, lies about a (juarter of a mile
N.W. b y N. from Duncan Koek, and freijucntly breaks. Sailing vessels are
recommended not to approach the lighthouse on Tatouch Island nearer than
3 miles. lu the immediate neighbourhood of Cape Flattery, and among these
rocks, the tides are strong and irregular.

NEEAH BAY.— From Cape Flattery the coast trends 4 miles IvN.E. to
Koitlah or Koikla Point, on the W'est sido of Nceah Bay ; the shore is high and
rugged, backed by hills 1,500 to 2,000 ft. high, covered with timber. Deep
water is found within one-third of a mile of the bluffs. The bay is 1^ mile
wide between Koitlah Point and the North end of Wyadda Island to E. by
N. J N., and extends about 1 J mile to the S.S.E. The western .shore of the
bay is high and cliffy, and bor.^^red by craggy rocks 300 to 400 yards off. A
reef extends for more than a cable off Koitlah Point, and within the point a
sand bank, which dries, e.\tends off a qtuirter of a mile at low water. The

NEICATI BAY— CALLAM BAY.

head of the bay Ib a low saiuly beach, on which there is generally some surf
rolling, and backed by woods.

Wyadda or Waaddah Island, forming the East side of the bay, is a high,
narrow ridge, about half a mile long N.W. and S.E., and covered with pino
trees. It is separated from Ba-ad-dah Point by a 4-fathoms channel, 2J cables
wide. Off the S.W. part a rocky ledge and shoal water extends for 3 cables.

The bay offers a safe and convenient anchorage to vessels meeting S.W. or
S.E. gales at the entrance to the strait. A good berth will be found in 6
fathoms, sandy bottom, with tlio outer point of Wyadda Island N.E. by N.,
and Koikla Point W. by N. A short distance within this position kelp grows
in large patches all over the bay, and some care is necessary in selecting a
berth. Largo sailing vessels may anchor in 7 or 8 fathoms a little outside the
above bearings, in the centre of the bay, with the outer point of the island
N.E. by E. The holding ground is not so good on the island side. It is high
water in the bay at 12*' 33'" ; springs rise 7J ft., neaps IJ feet.*

The best anchorage is in about .'i fathoms, in the South part of the bay, off
ilio small stream running in at the eastern foot of tlio hills, wlicrc some Indian
houses will generally be found, and abundance of fresh water. A li/ebuul is
stationed at Necah Bay.

A vessel should leave this bay on any indication of a N.E. wind, and if too
late, and uni.lilo to weather Wyadda Island, she may, with the assistance of
the chart, run between it and the main.

The rugged coast to the castwaiJ of Neeah Bay is quite unfit for settle-
ment ; although behind the rocks which lino the shore lies much rich and
fertile land, which, however, can only be reached from Admiralty Inlet and
I'uget Sound.

CALLAM BAY. — From Neeah to Sekou Point, on the western side of
Callam Bay, Ihc distance is 14 miles. The intervening coast, which trends in
an E. J S. direction, is nearly straight, and the shore bold, the only remarkablo
feature being Klaholoh {Seal Rock), 150 ft. high, which lios a short distance
olf the shore, 2 miles eastward of Wyadda Island. The bay is easily recog-
nized by Slip Point, its eastern bluff, which is the western termination of a
bold coast ridge, about 1,000 ft. in elevation; some rocks are said to lie off it. f

C'allam Bay is 2 miles wide, with about G fathoms water in its centre, and a
small stream runs into its head. It is open to the northward ; the usual

• Comniandor It. C. lliiyiio, UN., who was ongngod on tho survey under Capt. O. II.
Richards, saj-s in his interesting book thut tho Indians muster horo in largo numbers,
owing to tho quantity of cod, halibut, and other fish, on tho bank running out from tho
Bhoro of tho inland. Tlio fishery will, no doubt, at somo futuro time, prove a sourco of
eonsidorablo profit to the colony.

t About halfway along tho face of this ridgo is a vein of lignite, a coal not fit for steain-
Bhip use, but it contftinod C8 per cent, of carbon. Tho fucc of this ridgo has deep wator, but
tho bottom \» very irregular.

'.IS* S

t u;f

328

THE STEAIT OF JUAN DE FUCA.

anchorngo is in 6 to 8 fathoms, but it must be considered as only n temporary
stopping-place, being only safe •with southerly winds.

The coast from C'allam Bay continues in the same direction for 7 miles to
Pillar Point, so called from its terminating in a bare columnar-shaped rock, a
little remarkable, where, from the character of the country, generally thickly
wooded from summit to water-line, few objects present themselves by which
vessels may accurately fix their positions. The coast on the East side of this
point forms a small biglit, in which there is a considerable stream and an
Indian village, and then trends E. by N., with a gentle curve to the south-
ward, to Strij)ed Peak, distant 17 miles; a small river, the Lyre, emptying
itself just eastward of Low Point, 7 miles westward of the peak. Eocks abound
close along the shore.

Striped Peak is rather remarkable from a land.sHp occurring down its face,
and from which it received its name. It is several hundred feet high, but the
landslip is rapidly becoming obliterated by vegetation. At 1 J mile westward
of the peak, and a third of a mile off the West point of Crescent Bay, which is
merely an indentation, lies a rock, which breaks at low water, the only known
detached sunken danger which occurs on the southern side of the strait, with
the exception of one off the shore, G^ miles westward of New Dungaiess.
Westward of it some kelp grows a short distance from the beach, on the some-
what sheltered part between Striped Peak and Pillar Point, and here the depth
of water at a mile from the shore varies from 8 to 1 6 fathoms ; westward of
Pillar Point it deepens to 40 fathoms at that distance.

FRESHWATER BAY, at 3 mik-s eastward of Striped Peak, is a mile deep
between Observatory and Angelos Points, the two entrance points, which Ho
8 miles apart E. by N. J X. and W. by S. J S., and within this line the depth
varies from 6 to 12 fathoms. Observatory Point has several rocks lying a
short distance off it ; the western side of the bay is a high bold shore. Angelos
Point, the eastern entrance point, is low, and here the river Ehvha, emptying
itself through it, forms a delta. Vessels may anchor within the line of the
points in from G to 9 fathoms, but being open to the northward, it should only
be used as a temporary stopping-place.

Eastward of Angelos Point the hills recede, leaving a level space between
them and the coast. Thence they rise to a great height, their summits capped
with snow, even in summer, forming some of the highest peaks of the Olympus
range.

PORT ANGELOS, or False Dungeness, is 7 miles eastward of the East point
of Freshwater liay, the intervening coast forming rather a deep indentation to
the southward, off which as little as 3 fathoms water is found nearly a mile
from the shore. The North side of the port is bounded by one of those low
narrow sand or shingle spits which are a characteristic feature of the country.
This spit, which is named Eiiiz Hooh, or False Dunyeness, curves from a high
bluff in an E.N.E. direction for nearly 3 miles, and forms a large and good

15?

PORT ANGELOS-NEW DUNGENESS.

329

harbour. On tho North or Bpit side tho wator is deep, vaiying from 15 to 30
fathoms ; but southward of a lino drawn through the centre there is excellent
anchorage in from 7 to 10 fathoms in any part of tho port. The outer part of
tho spit is steep-to, and may be rounded close-to, after which the port extends
for 2^ miles in a westerly direction, by more than a mile in breadth. Although
open to easterly winds, they do not blow home. Fresh water is to be obtained
from streams on the South side of the port. Coal is reported to have been
found within 3 miles of tho point.

Light, — About 27 yards from tho eastern extremity of Ediz Hook is a square
white lighthouse, 35 ft. high, with a red lantern, from which is shown a Jixed
bright light, elevated 43 ft., and visible 12 miles.

The spit is so low that at timti the sea washes over it, and as it is im-
possible to see it at any distance, vessels would be apt at night, were it not for
the light, to run on it if passing close to the southern shore of tho strait. At
night vessels should not go within tho depth of 14 fathoms.

Tho white sandstone cliffs on each side of Port Angclos are mostly bare
of trees, whilst those within the port are nearly covered with trees. From
tho lighthouse on Ediz Hook, New Dungcness lighthouse bears N.E. by E.,
disUmt 12^ miles, the coast within this line forming a large bay, in which tho
soundings aro regular, shoaling from 18 and 25 fathoms to 5 and 3 fathoms.
Anchorage may be bad ia this bay with easterly winds, but it is exposed to
tho West and N.W.

At 5 miles E.N.E. from the entrance of Port Angclos is Greeri Pointy tho
coast westward and eastward of it being composed of high, inaccessible cliffs,
with a beach of shingle, sand, and boulders. At 1 J mile N.E. by E. of Green
Point, and half a mile from the beach, lies Pandora Reef, a sunken rock with
1 1 ft. over it at low water, well marked by kelp.

NEW DUNGENESS BAY.— From Green Point tho coast extends 2J miles
farther to E.N.E., and then runs north-easterly for 2 miles to the commence-
ment of another long, low, narrow sand-spit, covered with grass, stretching
from tho bluff shore in a general N.E. by N. direction for 3J miles, forming
the N.W. side of the roadstead of New Dungcness. Tho sea washes over it
occasionally. A narrow shoal extends north-eastward for half a mile from the
end of the spit, and having from 2 to 2|- fathoms water over it ; a heavy tido-
rip runs over it at the change of the currents, and deep water is found close to
its extremity.

The spit just described encloses a largo space where shelter may be found
from winds between North and S.E., round by tho West, in 5 to 10 fathoms.
Tho bottom being stiff mud affords good holding ground. This place is more
convenient as a temporary anchorage than Port Discovery.

On the inside of the spit, 1 mile from the eastern extremity, another narrow
sand-spit stretches 1 J mile southward towards the main shore, forming a largo
Horth Pacijic, 2 V

. 11

^ a

Mllllf ■

S V"' * >

r \ ■
i. ■ ', (

i ^

830

THE STRAIT OP JUAN DK FUOA.

inner shonl bny with n narrow opening, through which the water passes oa
over a rapid, iit low tido ; abreast this point, is a small stream, on the western
side of which is a bluff CO ft. high, and upon it is n Inrgc village of the
C'lallums. The shore eastA'ard of the stream is low, swampy, ond covered
with trees and brush ; it forms the southern or main shore of the roadstead,
and off it arc extensive mud-flnts, which are bare at low water for five-eighths
of a mile, and run as fur as Wasliington or Hudds Harbour ; shoal water cxlsits
for some distance outside tliosc Hats. A depth of about 20 fathoms is found a
quarter of a mile southward of the lighthouse point, the depth regularly
decreasing across the bay with a soft tenacious muddy bottom.

Fresh water may bo obtained in abundance at the above stream, but boats
must obtain their supply at low tide, and come out when the tido has sufficiently
risen. There is a village here, with a church.

LIGHT. — Near the outer end of the spit is a structure consisting of a
keeper's dwelling, of stone, with a tower of brick ; the upper half being a,
dark lead colour, the lower half white. The tower is 8ft ft. high, and exhibits
njixml bright light, elevated 100 ft. and visible IG miles. Lat. 48" 10' 50' N.,
long. 123" 6' 7" W.

In foggy weather a steam Fog Whistle, 130 yards north-eastward of the
lighthouse, is sounded every minute, as follows : a blast of G seconds followed
by an interval of 12 seconds, and then a blast of 3 scconda followed by an
interval of 39 seconds.

Tho usual and best anchorage in New Dungcness I3ay, is to bring the light-
house to bear about N. by E. J I'], half a mile distant, where 10 fathoms is
found a third of a mile off the beach. With the lighthouse bearing N.W. by N.
three-quarters of a milo distant, tho same depth and bottom are found, the
nearest shore will bear South \\ mile, and the mud flat three-quarters of u
mile in the same direction ; from this position a vessel con readily got under
weigh and clear the point.

It is high water at Ne>v Dungenoss, on full and change, at S*", and (he risQ
is 5 feet.

The coast from New Dungcness trends to the E.S.E. for nearly 7 miles, and
forms a deep indentation, in tho western corner of which is Washington
(or Budd's) Harbour, and in the eastern Port Discovery. Tho entrance of tho
former is almost closed by a long sand-spit extending from the eastern side,
leaving a narrow channel with only 2 fathoms water, which deepens within to
13 and 20 fathoms. The coast from New Dungcness is low, flat, covered with
trees, and bordered by an extensive mud flat, The Indian name of the bay is
S'quim.

PORT DISCOVERY, the harbour where Vancouver anchored and refitted
his ships, and from whence he commenced his exploration of these regions in
May, 1792, is an extensive inlet running in a southerly and S.E. direction for
6 miles, with an average breadth of IJ milo ; tho general depth of water is

ml
shL
al[

P""
th

COM

i.\

ADMIUAI/IY INLKT— PORT TOWNSIIKND.

331

from 20 to .00 fathoms, but an nncliornge may bo had on tlic West Ride, \^
mih) within the entrance, in 1ft fathoms, close to the shore. A spit extends a
short distance off Clallum Point, the western point of entrance, and there ia
also shoal water off Cape fleoryc, on the opposite Hide. At the head of the
port there is 10 fathoms, but a mud flat extends for a quarter of a mile from
the shore. Salmon River runs into its liead. The shores arc abrupt, ond
covered with wood. Mount Chatham, 2,110 ft. high, rises near the S.W.
part of the bay.

Protection Island lies ^ miles immediately off the entrance of the port,
and 8heltcr.s it from N.W. winds. Its western extremity lies 7i miles ]•'. [-f S.
from New Dungencss lighthouse, and it extends thence 1^ mile to N.K. \ I'l.
Its seaward part is covered with timber, but the southern si'dc is undulating,
and covered with fern. Off the northern side a line of kelp, about half a mile
out, marks the 4 -fathoms line, aiul from this Dalian Hank runs o miles to tlie
N.N.W., with 5 to 15 fathoms on it, with a patch of 3 fathoms 2 miles N.W.
of the North point of the island. There is good anchorage on the bank with
light airs and strong adverse currents. Eoefs extend about half a mile off the
East and West points of the island, but thenc is a clear deep channel in on
cither sPde.

Vancouver stated that there are few places where the variety and beauty of
the flowers are so great as they are here, surrounded by woods, almost im-
penetrable in some places, lie also mentions having here seen some tall poles
erected on the shores, which Commandtr Wilkess in 1811, ascertained to be
used by the Indians for suspending nets for taking the wild fowl, which
frequent tlie shores in great numbers. There is a village and saw-mill here.

ADMIRALTY INLET.— At 11 miles E.N.E. from New Dungencss light
is the entrance to Admiralty Inlet, •!.] miles wide, between Wilson Point on
the '\Vest and I'artridgc Point to N.W. by N. .^ N., the latter a^ remarkable
sloping cfiff of a whitish or yellowish colour ; and here eon\mcnces that ex-
tensive and singular scries of inland navigation, which penetrates the continent
in a general southerly direction for nearly 90 miles.

Between I'ort Discovery and Wilson Point, about G miles to the eastward,
the shor« is high, witb steep yellow cliffs ; during ebb tides a very strong eddy
ciwrent sets to the eastward along tliis shore. Wilson Point, the N.E. ex-
tremity of Quimper Peninsula, is composed of lotv sandy hillccks, with a shoal
spit extending nearly half a mile off it.

The LIGHTHOUSE on Wilson Point is 46 f». high, and painted white,
showing ajixcd bright light, elevated 53 ft., and visible 12 miles. In foggy
weather a Foy Whistle sounds a blast of 8 seconds in every minute.

PORT TOWNSHEND lies at the threshold of Admiralty Inlet, and is the
port of entry for the Puget Sound district of Washington Territory. Vessels
leaving Fuca Strait have frsqucntly, when overtaken by a Mcsterly gale, been

' -:-iii

-aifiisiiift;.

TUK STRAIT OF JUAN DK FUOA.

conipellcil (o benr mi nnd seek shelter in it. Althoiigli n snfo linrbour, from its
grcnt extent it iu subject to a disagreeable sea during strong winds.

The entrnncc iH between Wilson and Mnrrowstono Points, the Inttcr botiring
from the former l-l.S.K., 3J miles. At IJ mile S.E. by S. J H. from WiJNon
' I'oint, and on the snmc side, is Hudson Point, the distance between which oiul
Murrowstonc I'oint is nlso IJ mile; nnd between these two points is more jiro-
perly the true entrance of the port, which now runs in a S.S.W. direction for
S miles, and then S.E. for about the same distance, the average breadth being
nearly 2 miles ; the general depth of 'vater is from 9 to 15 fathoms, good hold-
ing ground, soft mud when within Hudson Point. Hudson Point should be
rounded within half a mile or less.

At half a mile within Hudson Point there is good nnchorogo in the western
side of the pert, off the wlmrf and houses, in 8 to 10 fathoms, from n ([uurter
to half r. mile from the shore. In winter anchor further out, to clear Hudson
Point in getting under way with a south-easter. It is high water, on full and
ch.inge, at ;i'' 49"" ; springs rise 5^ ft., neaps 4 ft.

'J'he town of I'ort Townshend haa increased very much since the discovery
of gold on Fraser lliver, and the rise of the settlements on Puget Sound,
whence large quantities of timber, coal, &c., arc now exported, which is ex-
pected to groatfy incrcosc in the future from the construction of railways, nnd
the consequent opening up of the country. In 1883 the population numbered
1,000. There is a Marine Ilosfjitnl here. Fresh water is scarce, but vessels
can obtain a small supply near the military post. Some fine farms lie near the
^own, and vegetables are plentiful nt reasonable prices. There is a blast furnace
in operation here, making iron from native ore.

'J'hc military post is on the blufi', 2 J miles S. by W. from the town, and on a
site which commands one of the mont beautiful views in these waters. Laving
the bluff and varied shores of the bay on cither hand.

In 1882, the value of the exports to foreign coiintries from Puget f?Dund
amounted to about £304,318, ehieily in lumber, nnd in American vesselsi.
Besides this there is a large export trade to San I'rnneisco, and other ports of
tl»c United States. In the same year 408 vessels entered from foreign ports,
with a total tonnage of 240,800.

Opposite the town is the entrance to Kilisut Hurhour, nearly closed by a
long sand-spit. At high tide boats can pass from its South end to Oak Hay.
There is only a narrow portage between the latter and the head of Port
Townshend.

Marrowstone Point is a low sandy point stretching 300 yards eastward
from the base of the bluff, and forming an indentation on its southern face,
where anchorage may be had in 12 fathoms, with a current or eddy invariably
running ebb.

ADMIBALT7 HEAD, abreast of the entrance to Port Townshend, nnd 3 J
tailcB N.E. by E. from Wilson Point, is a perpendicular cliff 80 ft. high, desti-

wmtmtmsiigmim

ADMIRALTY INLET.

3;j.'i

tuto of trees, fnlliii}; on tlio ra«tcrn nido to a low, pebbly Bhore, which r»iiis '2
mil'H to the K.N.M,, and Htrikes the high cliffn on the criHtoru «.'!( of the inlut.
Thii« bay han n hard, nnndy bottom; a strong current alwuyH makes out of it,
niid it is exposed to the full sweep of south-casters.

The LIQHTHOUSE on Admiralty Head connistH of a keeper's J>vcllin'7,
with a square white tower, '1 ft. high, showing a Jixftl liriyhl light, clLvatetl
I OH i^., and risible about 17 miles. Its geographical position is lat. 'IB"" U' 2'2,' N.,
long. 122Ml'W.

ADMIRALTT INLET is a collection of very singular and labyrinthine
channels, terminating at Pugct .S()\ind and its various branches, which reach
the lot. of 47° 2'. Some portions of their shores are remarkably fertile and
beautiful, and it \/Muld seem to be almost the only eligible ])art for eoloni/atiou
in Washington Territory. The original settlements emanated from the Hudson's
Boy Compony. The term Pugct Sound is sonietimes applied to the whole of
the waters extending from the Strait of Juan dc Fuca to the southern ex-
tremity of Pu?;ct Sound.

The whole of these inlets were occltrately ana amply explored and surveyed,
for the first time by Vancouver, in May, 1792, and most of the names were
applied by him. Ilood'u Canal was thus named after Lord Hood. 'I'lio
American Exploring I'^xpedition, under Capt. Wilkes, also surveyed the asiscm-
blago of inland wu.ij^, ..dding the names not given by Vancouver, chiclly those
of the officers of the expedition.

The shores of all these inlets and bays arc remarkably bold ; so much so^
that in many places a ship's side would strike the shore before the keel would
touch the g*'ovmd. Tito following is a gcRorol description of the principal re-
markable objects.

Starting from abreast Marrowstone Point the mid-channcl course up Ad-
miralty Inlet runs S.K. by S. J S. for 7 miles. The shores on either hand are
bluffs of apparently uniform height, covered with trees. After running thus
about 6 miles there will be passed, on the eastern shore, n low point, with one
or two clumps of trees and bushes, named Hush Point. On the western shore
is Nodule J'oint, a, rounding bluff" point, 1 mile North of the N.E. point of Oak
Lay; off" this point there is good anchorage in 12 or 15 fathoms. The high,
bold headland, several miles directly ahead, is Foulweathcr Jilnff, and that to
the E.S.K., destitute of trees, except one large clump, which marks it con-
spicuously from this direction, is Double Bluff. The deep indentation between
it and Hush Point, with low land in the rear, is Mutiny Bay. At the end of
the course Oak Bay opens to the westward, and stretches towards the waters
of Port Townshend. It has bluff* shores nearly all around it, with a depth of
6 to l'*) fathoms. The length of the bay is 3 miles, and its average width
about li mile.

The opening West ofFoulwcather lUuifis Hood C'nna/(hereofter described);

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834

THE STRAIT OF JUAN DE FUCA, ETC.

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vcssola boiri J into it keep close to the ^v.Jtera shore of tlic blufT, and pnss two
low points lyU'C' '^*'*'' * -;,ethcr.

The next or third course up the inlet is E.S.E. for 10 miles, passing on the
eastward Double Bluff, which stretches north-eastward for a mile, and rises
klOO or 400 ft., having its top covered with wood. The bluff running also to
tre northward forms Useless Bay, whicli has deep water over the greater
poitina of ., with a large shallow baj^ called Deer Lagoon at its head. The
high bluff forming the southern point of Useless Bay is Satchel Head, and a
similnj bluff lies 2 miles E, by S. of it, with shoal water extending about half
a mile off the coast. These form the southern extremity of Whidbey Island,
in lat. 47° 54', and are the turning points into Possession Sotmd. The two
heads are about 300 ft. high, and covered with trees.

Foulweather £luff. — On the western side of the last mid-channel cour!5c is
Foulweather Bluff (already noticed), which is pcrpendicidnr on its N.X.W,
face, aud about 225 ft. high, with heavy firs upon its summit. It slopes
towards the East to a bluff 40 ft. high, but is steep on the side next to Hood
Canal. The low point, 4 miles eastward of it, is Point No Point, making well
oat, lud destitute of trees or bushes ; there is good anchorage in 10 futiioras
on the South side of this point, and thence the western shore run? aearly
straight S.E. by S. for 10 miles.

Light. — On Point No Point is a white lighthouse, 20 feet nigh, showing n
/xw/ £;•////((! light, elevated 27 ft., and visible 10 miles. In foggy weather a
Bvll, in a tower on the outer end of the spit, is struck once every 10 seconds.

At the end of the last course the inlet expands to a ^vidth of 7 milts. The
next, or fourth mid-channel course up the inlet, is S.S.E. for 21 miles to
Allen Bank, which lies a mile off the North end of Vashon Island. Five miles
on this course, or 7 miles from Point No Point, brings uis to an excellent little
harbour on the western side of the inlet, called Apple-tree Cove, having a low
point on the North side, with a soft mud-flat extending several biuidrcd yards
up the inlet. There is no fresh water in the vicinity, but very good timber
may be procured suitable for boat-spars and booms.

On the eastern shore, opposite the cove, is a small indentation with good
anchorage, and where fresh water might be procured at high tide. Tlic inlet
is here only 3 miles wide, and continues so to Point Jefferson, 2 miles south-
ward of Apple-tree Cove. 'ITiis is a moderately low, straight bluff, with the
groiuid rising behind it, and covered with timber. Stretching off its eastern
face for three-quarters of a mile is a 9-fathoms shoal, which affords capital
anchorage for vessels when drifting with light airs and adverse currents.

At night, vessels entering Admiralty Inlet from the strait should steer for
Admiralty Head light bearing E. by N., keeping Wdson Point light open on
the starboard bow. When the latter light bears S.W. by S. ^ S, a S.E. J E.
course will lead direct to Point No Point. WJien Double Bluff bears N. by

IKSKMCVKK^?

ADMIRALTY INLET—PUGET SOUND.

335

B. ii E., change course to E. by S., until Point No Point bears South, when
{liter course to S.E. i S. for the southern part of the iulct.

PORTS MADISON and Orchard,— Pom< Jefferson is the northern Bide of
the entrance to Tort Madison, Avhich runs 3 miles W.S.W., with an averago
width of 2 miles, and a great depth of water, cxcepl under Point Jefforaon,
where ancb.orage may bo had in 10 and lo fathoms, hard sandy bottom, with
patches of kelp inshore.

The S.E. point of the entrance is low and sandy, making out from high
wooded ground. At a mile West of it is the narrow entrance to a natuml
canal, upon which, in full view, are situated the Port M.iJison saw-mills. At
the S.W. part of the bay is the voiy narrow entrance to P<''t Orchard, where
there is a saAv-mill. The channel is somewhat crooktd, but it has 3 and 4
A\tiioms water in it. On the western side of this entrance arc some white
putchcs of beach, foi'med by elara shells. Both »idcs of the entrance are bluffs.
Yfsscls not well acquainted with the channel must enter under ea.'jy sail, and
keep a lead going on each side of the vessel to ascertain where the deepest
water lies. After getting through, give the point, 1 mile off on the western
side, a berth of nearly half a raih;,, to avoid a shoal which makes out East
from it.

Bainbridge Isla.id lies between Port Orchard, Port Madison, and Admiralty
Inlet. It is 8 miles long by 2^ miles in breadth, and its general direction is
S.E. by S. A few loggers' huts stand on the western side, and the Madison
E.aw-mill at the North end. On the S.E. part it is iudeuted by two small
harbours,

Duwanaish Bay. — Abreast of Port Madison the eastern shore of the inlet
retreats, and there receives several small streams, but it gradually makes out
into a very long, lo^^-, sandy point, called West Point, which forms the extreme
N.W. part of the entrance to Duwamish Bay. The bay runs E. by S., CJ-
miles, and has a width of 2 miles. To tho South point, lioherts or Battery
Point, which is low and bare, with a curiously-.shaped mound rising sharply
behind it, the course is about S.E. by S,, and distant 4^ miles. There is an-
chorage in 10 to 15 fathoms under West Point, but on the North side tlio
water is very deep. Through the centre of the bay the depth ranges from 38
to 40 fathoms. On the North side of Battery .Point a vessel anchoring in 20
fathoms cannot have a greater scope of chain than 35 fathoms without being
too close to the sliore. On this side of Battery Point is tho deserted town of
Alki (the Indian phrase for " by-and-byo "')• The town has had several names,
but there is nothing about it to command trade.

Duwamish Head is n bluft' head, 2 miles N.N.E. of Battery Point, about 150
feet high, and covered with trees ; at low water the bo;ioh extends o^•cr a
nuarter of a mile N.N.W. (if it. The head of the bay is an extensive flat,
bare at low water, into which flows the Duwamish lUver.

The Lighthouse on the extremity of West Point is u eciuare brick tower,

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THE STEAIT OF JUAN DE FUCA, ETC

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painted white* with a red lantern, showing a. flashing light, alternately red and
bright, every 10 seconds, elevated 20 ft. above high water, and visible 10
miles. Behind the lighthouse is a white structure, containing a Bell, which
in foggy weather is struck by machinery at alternate intervals of 5 and 25
seconds,

Yessela approaching from the northward, after passing about 1 mile off
Point No Point, should steer S.E. J S., and when West Point light bears
S. by E. J E., alter course to S. by E. After passing the light, at one-third
of a mile distant, bring it to bear N. by E., when an E. ^ S. course leads into
Seattle Harbour.

SEATTLE. —The town of Seattle is situated at the N.E. part of Duwamish
or Elliot Bay, a little over 5 miles inside of West Point, It is the largest town
on Puget Sound, and had a population of 9,000 in 1883, having nearly doubled
the number of its inhabitants in two years. Large quantities of lumber and
coal are exported, also salmon, wool. Hour, and iron. The largest vessels can
lie alongside the wharves.

There is a railway from here joining the main line to Portland at New Ta-
coma, 25 miles distant, and another line extends 21 miles eastward to the coal
mines of Newcastle, which yielded about 220,000 tons of coal (pure lignite), in
1882, which is conveyed by steamers to San Francisco, 154,611 tons having
been shipped in that year, and 167,600 tons in 1883.

Seattle has been proposed as the terminus of a branch of the Northern trans,
continental Pacific Eailroad, penetrating the Cascade Mountains by the Ya.
kima Pass, and thereby making the line 1-10 miles shorter than by the Columbia
Iliver pass.

The usual anchorage is directly off the wharf, in 10 to 15 fathoms, with the
largo white house on the extreme point bearing about East, or E, by S„ and at
n distance from the beach of about 500 yards,

RESTORATION POINT.— From the S.E. point of Port Madison to this
point the shore of Bainbridge Island is bluff and somewhat irregular, and is in-
dented first by Eagle Harbour, having a long pebbly spit, making out 300 or
400 yards S.E. from its North point ; and next, at Point llestoration, by
Blakely Harbour, having off its entrance a large rock, 15 ft. high, with deep
water all round it, lying three-quarters of a mile nearly N.N.W, from the
point. Blakely Harbour is only a quarter of a mile wide, and three-quarters
of a mile long, with 18 fathoms, sticky bottom, at its mouth ; there is a saw-
mill here. Eagle Harbour is larger and more commodious than Blakely.

llestoration Point is low and flat for about 300 yards on its S.E. face, rising
sharply inshore to about 100 ft., its sides covered with grass, and the summit
with firs. A ledge, bare at low tides, extends IJ cable off its extremity.
There is anchorage at a quarter of a mile S.S.E. of the point, in 15 fathoms,
sticky bottom ; anchorage can be found by bringing the rock North of it to
range just over and inside of the point.

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it^^'aVMW ^M'^v «

The geographical position of the trlangulation station of the Coast Survey
upon this point is lat. 47° 35' 6" N., long. 122° 29' W., approximate. From
this point Battery Point bears E. by N. i N., distant 2J miles.

The approximate establishment at Restoration Point is 4'' 4" ; the mean rise
and fall of tides is 7.4 feet.

South of Re»toration Point, Admiralty Inlet opens westward for a couple of
miles into a I ly, in which is situated an island about three-quarters of a mile
in extent, called Blake Island. From the N.W. part of the bay a narrow
crooked pass, 3 miles long, leads to the southern part of Port Orchard, which
spreads out into several arms. The pass is obstructed by rocks, and is difficult
of navigation. There is anchorage in 17 and 18 fathoms, mud, under the low
eastern point of Blake Island.

Our last course brought us to Allen Bank, off the North end of Vashon
Island, with Blake Island to the westward, and three-quarters of a mile dis-
tant. This bank is nearly a mile in extent, and has as little as 10 fathoms
upon it, with a variable bottom, in some places mud, and in others hard sand.
The N.E. point of Vashon Island is Dolphin Point ; the N.W. point, Point
Vashon ; the point abreast of it is Point Southworth ; and the channel 1 mile
vide, commencing between the last two points, is Colvos Passage, running
West of Vashon Island.

The main body of Admiralty Inlet continues about S.E. for 8 miles, then
S.S.W. 8 miles further, with an average width of 2 miles. In this stretch the
currents are moderately strong, the chances for anchoring few, and it is some-
times calm while a fine breeze is blowing through Colvos Passage.

Brace Point lies on the East side of the inlet, N.E. from Dolphin Point. In
Fauntleroy Cove, northward of Brace Point, there is good anchorage in
10 and 12 fathoms, and here fresh water is easily obtained. The round-topped
point having two or three lone fir trees upon it, and situated on the same side
of the inlet, 4 miles above Brace Point, is called Point Ptilly; the water is very
deep close to it on either side.

Colvos Passage is the usual, we may say the invariably used ship-channel
towards Puget Sound. It is about a mile wide, with high bluff shores, varied
by numerous small, low sandy points making out from the face of the bluff,
and having deep water off them. The passage is 1 1 miles long to the South
end of Vashon Island, called Dalco Point, and it runs with a nearly straight
course S, by E. At 1^ mile inside of Point Vashon there is a small curve in
the shore-line called Fern Cove, with excellent anchorage in 5 and 10 fathoms.
Abreast of Dalco Point on the western shore there is a small harbour, with a
narrow and shoal entrance, called Gig Harbour. Looking out of the passage
to the North, Mount Baker shows distinctly in clear weather.

COMMENCEMENT BAY.— When abreast of Dalco Point this bay, at the
termination of Admiralty Inlet, opens to the E.S.E., and over its low back-
North Pacijic. 2 x

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THE STRAIT OF JUAN DE FUCA. ETC.

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ground shows tho high suow-covered peak of Mount liainier. The general
direction of the bay is E. by S. J S., with a length of 3 or 4 miles, a width of
2 miles, and a great depth of water up to the line of the extensive flat at its
head, which is backed by marsh.

PORT TACOMA, at the head of Commencement Bay, is now rising into
prominence as a shipping port for wheat, coal, &c. At its back lies an
immense forest, and in the vicinity are extensive deposits of good coal. Hops
are grown in the neighbourhood. The railway from Columbia River and
Portland, 147 miles distant, terminates here, and branch lined extend to the
eastward to the Carbonado coal miles, 33 miles from New Tacoma, and north-
ward to Seattle. lu 1883 the town had about 4,000 inhabitants, exclusive of
the adjacent old town of Tacoma, and was expected to increase very rapidly
in size and importance. Several cargoes of wheat have already been despatched
from Portland by railway, for shipment at Tacoma. In 1883, 130,400 tons
of coal were shipped from here to San Francisco.

Vashon Island, lying between the southern extremity of Admiralty Inlet
and Colvos Passage, is 11 J miles long, with an average width of 2 J miles.
The island is high, with steep shores, covered with wood and undergrowth.
Its surface is marshy in many parts that arc (juite elevated. Halfway down
on its eastern side lies a curiously shaped peninsula, formed by a narrow, low
sandy neck of land, which makes out into the inlet, and then runs towards
the South point of the island. The space between this peninsula and the
island is an excellent harbour, known as Quartermaster Harbour, 4 miles
long, and three-quarters of a mile wide, having a depth of 5 to 10 fathoms
water in it.

Point Defiance and the Narrows. — The high, sharp yellow bluff facing
the South entrance to Colvos Passage is called Point Defiance, and between it
and the western shore pass all the waters of Pugci Sound. This passage is
named the Narrows. Its average width is three-quarters of a mile, and very
imiform; the shores are high, bold, and in some places rocky. For 2 miles to
the S.E. it« course is a regular curve. The next turn is to the southward,
and at a distance of 2 miles in that 'direction the waters of the sound open
ahead, with a narrow pass between the main and Fox Island to the West, and
on the East is a small peninsula, with anchorage in 15 fathoms on its North
side ; there is only anchorage on its South side outside the kelp.

PUGET SOUND is a most singular termination to Admiralty Inlet. The
fertility of its shores, and its fine climate, may possibly make it of considerable
importance in future years. It received the name of Mr. Puget, the officer
under Vancouver's exjKjdition, who originally surveyed it.

Puget Sound may be described as a collection of inlets, contained in an area
of 20 miles square, the only entrance to which is through the Narrows, which,
if strongly fortified, would bid defiance to any attack, and gunrd its entrance
against anv force. The aggregate shore-line of this sound, and the adjacent

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PUGET SOUND-OLYMriA.

s.-jg

part of Admiralty Inlet, with Colvos Passage, to the North cnrl of Vashon
Island, is not less than 370 miles. Upon its shores are situated the settlements
of Steilacoom, Nisqually, Olympia, and Newmarket.

The inlets, in the wder in which they come from the entrance, have
received the names of Carr, Case, HammeraUy, Totten, Eld, Btidd, and Heri'
derson, from the officers of the United States' Exploring Expedition ; they are
united by passages, which form several islands and peninsulas. All these
inlets are safe, commodious, and capacious harbours, well supplied with water,
and the land around them fertile. On many of the islands and jjcninsulas are
to be found slate and sandstone, which, though soft and friable in some places
where it has been exposed on the surface, will be found suitable for building
purposes.

Steilaceom. — On the eastern shore of Puget Sound, 9 miles South of Point
Defiance, is situated the town or village of Steilacoom, upo» a rising bluff,
with about 600 inhabitants. Fort Steilacoom stands about a mile inland,
upon a piece of gravelly prairie, and roads lead from it to the town and the
creek.

The usual anchorage is off the small wharf, in 15 fathoms, hard bottom,
and about 2 or 2^ cables from the shore. An island lying 2J miles westward
of that position is called McNeil (Duntze), and between it and Fox (Kosario)
Island, to the northward, there is a passage 1^ mile wide. The passage on
the South side of McNeil Island, between it and Anderson (Fisgard) Island, is
generally known as Balch Passage. It bears about S.W. by W. from the an-
chorage, and is marked by a small wooded islet in it, called Eagle Island, off
which lies rocky bottom, and vessels keep closer to the North shore. This
passage is the direct channel to Olympia, instead of following the broad oiio
southward of Steilacoom.

When approaching Steilacoom, or bound direct for Olympia, a patch of kelp,
with foul bottom and less than 3 fathoms of water upon it, must be avoided.
It bears S.S.E. 1 mile from the South end of Fox Island, and N.W. by W.
1| mile from Steilacoom wharf. The tide-rip upon it and abreast of the town
is very great ; quite sufficient, with a little wind, to swamp a small boat. The
shores of the main and islands are bold, nearly uniform in height, and covered
with trees.

The corrected establishment of this port is 4*" 46'"; spring tides rise 11.1 ft.,
and neap tides 7.2 feet.

"Nisqually, 5 miles South of Steilacoom, and on the same side of the sound,
is at present u place of little or no trade or importance. It was one of the
early posts of the Hudson Bay Company. An extensive mud-flat exists off
the mouth of the wide, marshy valley, but the dejjth of water is very great
close to it, and the anchorage room very much contracted. The River Niu-
qually empties here, and there are two small saw-mills upon it.

OLYHFIA, — It would be almost useless lo attempt to describe the route to

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THE STJRAIT OF JUAN DE FUCA, ETC.

Olympia from Steilacoom, as a pilot or a good chart is absolutely noccssnry in
making the passage. The mid-channel course is 21 miles in length, and its
width from half to IJ mile.

Olympia is situated at the bead of Budd Inlet, which is 6 miles long and
three-quarters of a mile wide, and runs nearly South. The shores are steep
and wooded, and the head of the bay an immense mud-flat, behind which is
the town. It had a population of 2,100 in 1883, and acquires importance
from being the capiiol of the territory, but especially on account of its
proximity to the Columbia River valley, and to the headwaters of the Chehalis.
As before stated, a railway runs from here to Kalama on the Columbia River,
a distance of about 66 miles, from whence there is also communication with
Portland. The lumber trade is its principal industry.

A depth of 3 fathoms can be carried on the West side of Budd Inlet, within
IJ mile of the wharf. Vessels are brought up to the wharf at the highest
tides, and then rest in the mud until ready to leave. The approximate geo-
graphical position of the wharf is lat. 47° 3', long. 122° 55'.

The greatest di£Ference between the highest and lowest tides is reported to
be about 24 ft., and is doubtless more than this when we compare its position
with that of Steilacoom. The approximate corrected establishment is 5"" 8".

At 2 miles South of Olympia is Newmarket, on the Tumwater River, where
there are saw and flour mills, with several other saw-mills in its vicinity.

HOOD CAKAL. — The entrance to this arm of Admiralty Inlet lies between
Basalt Point and Foulweather Bluff, the latter bearing E. J S., distant 3 J miles
from the former. The first mid-channel course is S.E. for 4 miles, pointing
directly into Port Gamble, at the entrance to which the houses and mill arc
plainly visible ; and passing a high, round, wooded peninsula on the West
side of the channel, and connected to the main by a narrow neck of low sand
beach. This is frequently mistaken for an island, and is called Hood Head.
Between this head and Port Gamble the canal changes its course, and runs in
nearly a straight line S. by W. 40 miles, with an average width of 1^ mile.
In lat. 47° 21' N., it makes an abrupt turn, and runs for 12 or 13 miles
about N.E.

Port Ludlow. — Close to Basalt Point He some rocks, with others about half
a mile S.E., called the Colvos Rocks, among which is one 25 ft. high, but of
small extent. Close inshore, and abreast of this, is a rock just aivash at high
tide, but between the two runs a channel with 15 fathoms water, having soft
muddy bottom. The bright blufi" head, ^mile S.E. of Colvos Rocks, and
about 2 miles S.W. by W. from Foulweather Bluff, is Tula Point. Halfway
between Colvos Rocks and this point is the usual entrance, over a sand-bar
having 4 J fathoms. Vessels can pass inside of Colvos Rocks, carrying deep
water and 8 fathoms, soft muddy bottom, anywhere inside of Tala Point, even
past the saw-mill if necessary; the mill lies 2i miles S.S.E. of Basalt Point,

fat

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ADMIRALTY INLET— HOOD CANAL.

841

on a low sand point, inside of which there is excellent anchorage in 7 and 8
fathoms.

Of all the small harbours in these waters this has the preference, as it is
completely landlocked, and protected from gales from every quarter by the
high land and high trees around it. The approach was marked by buoys.
The first steamboat built in these waters was launched here in 1860.

Tekalet or Pert Gamble.— After passing Foulweather Bluff, keep closer
to the eastern shore than to the western, to avoid the strong current passing
round the low point which makes out from Hood Head. Run for the saw-
mill, plainly in sight, on the western side of the entrance to the bay, and when
within a mile of it approach the eastern bluff within one-third of a mile, in
about 10 or 15 fathoms, gradually drawing closer inshore, and passing between
the outer white and inner black can buoys. At the lowest tides the white
one is in 15 ft., the black in 12^ ft., and the small spar buoy between them in
mid-channel in 17 ft., but it rarely shows above water at any tide. After
passing these buoys the mill bears almost S.S.E. half a mile distant. Steer
S.E. or halfway between the mill-wharf and the East point, pass to the East
of the white spar buoy, which is in 12^ ft., and run through the entrance,
passing the wharf at about one-third of the distance between the points. Do
not round up to the eastward, as a shoal makes out almost parallel with the
point. It may be here noticed that these buoys were made and placed by the
Puget Mill Company, for the benefit of vessels trading to the port.

If the wind be ahead while beating up, it will be impossible for a largo
vessel to get in, as the channel is half a mile long, and not over 100 yards
wide at the narrowest part. Anchor off the buoys, and drop in with the early
flood, or warp in with the last of the ebb. On the shoal forming the western
side of the passage 10 ft. water may be found until up with the white spar
buoy. The bay extends 2^ miles to the S.E., and has a depth of 4 to 9
fathoms, mud bottom.

At about 3 miles from Hood Head, on the western side of the canal, is
Suguamish Harbour. A large sand-bank occupies its centre, and extends a
mile in length N.N.W., by half a mile in width. The approaches to the
shoal, which is in part bare, are detected in thick weather by the lead, the
soundings decreasing regularly from 20 fathoms. Keep, however, close under
the northern shore, which runs 2 miles W.S.W. from the low point called
Termination Point.

At 14 miles from Hood Head the canal curves more to the southward, and
then to the S.S.W. around Hazel Point, on the West side of which a large
arm of the canal makes North for 10 miles, bifurcating near its head. On its
western side the eastern spurs of the Olympus range reach its waters, and form
the western shore-line of the canal to the great bend. The sharp peak named
Mount Constance is said to attain an elevation of 7,777 feet.

At 2 miles South of Hazel Point, and on the eastern side of the i "nal, is a

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THE STRAIT OF JUAN DE FUCA, ETC.

fine harbour, formerly called Hahainish Harbour, but the name has been
clianged to Scabock by settlers, who have built a small saw-mill there. It is
formed by Scabock Island on the West, and is about a mile long by half a mile
wide, with good bottom in from 10 to 16 fathoms. Shipbuilding is carried
on here.

Above this Hood Canal becomes contracted in width, with very deep water.
From Seabock Harbour it runs 22 miles to Annas Bay, in a general S. by W.
direction, and then suddenly turns to the north-eastward, terminating in Lynch
Cove, 12 miles from Annns Bay, and about 2 miles from the northern extremity
of Case Inlet, a branch of Puget Sound.

WHIDBEY ISLAND, forming the eastern shore of the northern part of
Admiralty Inlet, is about 33 miles in length, and of very irregular figure, being
in some places not more than a mile broad. It is well fitted for settlement
and cultivation. The soil is good, the timber excellent, and there are several
open plains, which have been prepared by nature for the plough. There are
many villages of the Scatchat tribe on the island.

POSSESSION SOUND may be considered as the southern entrance to the
channel separating Whidbcy Island from the main land. Its eastern shore is
compact, forming a deep bay, into which the Sinahomis or Skywhamish River
falls. On the southern side of this bay is the village of Mukilteo, and on the
North side that of Tulalip ; the coasting steamers call here on their way to
and from Bellingham Bay. At 7 miles within the entrance is a high round
island, lying in the centre of the sound, and off the entrance to the river. It
was observed by Vancouver that the tide or current constantly set outwards
here.

At 2 miles N.W. from this round island is Point Alan, the South extremity
of Camano Island, which lies between Whidbey island and the main. Point
Alan is the end of a high, narrow strip of land, which separates Port Susan on
the East from Port Gardner on the West of Camano Island. Port Susan ex-
tends about 1 1 miles north-westward, and has deep water, terminated by ti
line of kelp fronting a tract of swampy land, through which a rivulet extends
and divides the North end of Camano Island from the main. The land
farther back is more elevated, and covered with a growth of timber similar to
that in other parts. It was in the upper part of this inlet that Vancouver's
ship, the Chatham, ran aground, but was soon got off.

Eastward of Alan Point, on the main land, is a small bay, before which
Vancouver anchored. There were two excellent streams flowing into it, but
they were so nearly on a level with the sea, that it became necessary to pro-
cure the water at low tide, or at some distance up the brook, which latter was
easily effected, as the boats were admitted to where the fresh water fell from
the elevated land. They also took some fish with the seine.

Port Gardner (so named by Vancouver after Vice-Admiral Sir Alan
Cai'daer) is the western arm of the continuation of Possession Sound, its

POSSESSION SOUND.

848

western shore being formed by Whidbcy Island. This shore was found by
Vancouver to be well peopled by Indians, who were very friendly. The water
is deep, with good shelter from all winds. On the western side a deep inlet,
named Holmes Harbour, extends about 5 miles S.S.E. into Whidbey Island, and
has some rocks ofiF its eastern entrance point. At about 14 miles from Point
Alan, and 8 miles N.W. by N. of Holmes Harbour, the branch which runs
thus fur about W.N.W. assumes the directions of S.W. by W. and N.E.

Penn Cove is the termination of the western branch, and is a very commo-
dious and excellent harbour, with regular soundings from 10 to 20 fathoms,
good holding ground, sheltered from all winds. Its western extreme, in lat.
48" 14', 5 miles from its entrance, is only about a mile from Partridge I'oint,
on the western shore of Whidbey Island. On each point of the harbour
Vancouver found a deserted village, in one of which were several sepulchres,
formed exactly like a sentry-box. At the head of the bay is the village of
C'oveland, and farther to the S.W. is Coupeville, on Puget Sound.

The main channel to the N.E. leads to a branch whose general direction is
N.W. From the eastern shore of this branch a shallow flat of sand, on which
are some rocky islets and rocks, runs out until within half a mile of the western
shore, forming a narrow channel, navigable for about 9 miles. The depth in
its entrance is about 20 fathoms, but gradually decreases to 4 fathoms in ad-
vancing northward, and the sand-bank, continuing with great regularity,
makes it about half a mile wide to lat. 48° 24', where it ceases to be navigable
for vessels of any burden, in consequence of the rocks and overfv^iis, from 3 to
20 fathoms deep, and a very irregular and disagreeable tide. Beyond this the
channel communicates with Rosario Strait by Deception Pass. Between
Fidalgo Island, on the eastern side of the northern end of the channel, and tha
main, is a narrow boat channel leading to Bellingham Bay. There is a saw-
mill at Utsalacly, on the North end of Camano Island.

In the bay just to the westward of the West entrance point of Possession
Sound, that is, the South point of Whidbey Island, there is a shoal lying a
little distance from the shore ; it shows itself above water, and is discoverable
by the soundings gradually decreasing to 10, 7, and 5 fathoms, and cannot be
considered as any material impediment to the navigation of the bay.

From the entrance of Possession Sound the West coast of Whidbey Island
continues in an iricgular N.W. by W. J W. direction to Partridye Point,
which forms the N.E. point of the entrance of Admiralty Inlet. Admiralty
Head, with its liyhthouse, have been described on pp. 332-3. Partridge Point
is a high, white or yellow sandy cliff, crowned with trees, having one of the
verdant lawns on either side of it. It rises to an elevation of about 260 ft., and
its southern part is in lat. 48" 12' 30" N., long. 122" 47' W., approximate.
From this point the coast trends llj miles northward to Deception Passage.

" Passing at the distance of about a mile from this point, we very suddenly
came on a small space of 10 fathoms water, but immediately again increased

[■V ■■,'P

I *

344

THE STRAIT OF JUAN DE FUCA, ETC.

I !

! i

our depth to 20 and 30 fathoraa. After advancing a few miles along the cnstern
shore of the gulf, we found no effect from cither the ebb or flood tide." —
Commodore Wilkes, U.S.N.

Smith, Blunt, or Bonilla Island, lying 6J miles N.W. of Partridge Point,
and 5 miles from the nearest land, is at the eastern end of Juan de Fuca
Strait, Eosnrio Strait going northward of it, and Admiralty Inlet to the south-
ward. It is only about half a mile in extent, and rises to a height of 55 ft. at
its western extremity. It is generally low and sandy, forming at its West end
a cliff of clay and gravel, above which are some dwarf trees. From it the re-
markably lofty and snowy peak of Mount Baker, 10,719 feet high, boars
N.E. i N., and that of Mourit Rainier, 14,444 ft. high, S.E. i E., the latter
being the highest peak in Washington Territory. Two other very lofty snowy
mountains are also seen to the southward of these. They appear to be co\ered
with perpetual snow, as low down as they can be seen, and seem as if they rise
from an extensive plain of low country. There is no fresh water on the
island.

The Lighthouse on its western summit, showing a revo/rin^ bright light every
half minute, is alluded to hereafter, on p. 352.

A field of kelp, with 6 fathoms water, extends I J mile westward of Smith
Island, with hard and sandy bottom. There is good anchorage on the North
and South sides, eastwavd of the kelp, in about 10 fathoms or less. The eastern
part is formed by a very narrow low spit of land, over which the tide nearly
flows. A low islet lies nearly a mile N.E. of the island, and is connected with
it by a narrow ridge of boulders and rocks, bare at very low tides.

At 3 miles southward of Smith Island is an extensive field of kelp, lying off
Partridge roint. Within the 10-fathoms line it is 3 miles long E.S.E. and
W.N.W., and 1^ mile wide. The general depth on it is 5 to 10 fathoms, sand,
gravel, and boulders, but the shoalest tpot is said to have only 14 ft. over it,
rocky bottom ; this spot lies about 3^^ miles from the nearest shore of Whidbcy
Island, and about the same distance S.E. of Smith Island lighthouse, and was
marked by a buoy moored in 20 ft. off its southern side.

Deception Passage, which runs into Port Gardner, to the North of Whidbcy
Island, is a very narrow and intricate channel, which, for a considerable dis-
tance, is not 40 yards in width, and abounds with rocks above and beneath the
smface of the water. These impediments, in addition to the great rapidity and
irregularity of the tide, render the passage navigable only for boats or steam
vessels of small burden, and well acquainted. Deception Islet, small and
wooded, lies off the entrance, with a sunken reef on its South side. Lawson
Rock, a dangerous sunken rock of 3 fathoms, lies about 1 J mile S.W. by W. J W.
from this islet.

To the northward of this the Strait of Juan de Fuca is limited by a collection
of islands which separates it from that explored by Vancouver, and named by
him the Gulf of Georgia. The North side of Deception Passage is formed by

Fidalgo
land, in
feet nea

The
south wa
face vari
rock, wh
few dwai
BOSA
Juan de
Island an
more par
and on
rocky, lie
tide, half
a very uni
near low i
On its
Passage is
Head. T
side by Al
some detac
about 3^ n
extent, and
marked by
quarter of i
and 700 ft.
S.E. side. '
in the bay i
through Ro
Cypress
within it, ai
northern en
cypress tree
ground cove
extend aboii
On its we
so named bj
found there
not very dee
bottom, belli
at anchor in
North J

w \

n ;t

ROSARIO STRAIT.

Fidalgo Island, separated from the main land on the East by a tract of low
land, iutcrsectcd by a narrow stream. Mount Erie risos to a iicight of 1,250
feet near its centre.

The country here assumes a very '^iS'orevt aspect from that seen to the
southward. The shores are here composed of steep rugged rocks, whose sur-
face varies exceedingly as to height, and exhibits little more than the barren
rock, which in some places produces some herbage of a dull colour, with some
few dwarf trees.

BOSARIO STRAIT forms the eastern connection between the Strait of
Juan de Fuca and the Gulf of Georgia, running northward between Fidalgo
Island and that next westward, named Lopez Island, which will be duscribid
more particularly hereafter. Off Cape Colville, the S.E. point of Lopez Island,
and on the West side of the entrance of this stiait, and which is low and
rocky, lies Davidson Sock, a very dangerous sunken rock, visible only at low
tide, half a mile E. | S. of Colville Island; and 2^ miles to the northward is
a very unsafe cluster of small rocks, some constantly and others visible ouly
near low water. The strait varies from 5 to IJ miles in width.

On its eastern side, the coast of Fidalgo Ishind northward of Deception
Passage is high, precipitous, and bare for 2 or 3 miles, and is known as Sares
Head. To tbn northward of this is Burrows Bay, protected on its western
side by Alan and Burrows Islands, half a mile off the South end of which are
some detached rocks, 22 ft. high, named Williamson liocks. Alan Island,
about 3J miles north-westward of Deception Islet, is three-quarters of a mile in
extent, and 200 ft. high, with its southern face partly bare. Dennis Rock,
marked by kelp, lies a quarter of a mile off its S.W. side. Burroivs Island, a
quarter of a mile northward of Alan Island, is about 1 J mile long, between 600
and 700 ft. high, with a remarkable flat top ; Young Islet lies close off its
S.E. side. There are deep ''hannels between the islands, and vessels may anchor
in the bay in about 10 fathoms, if necessary to await a favourable wind to pass
through llosario Strait.

Cypress Island lies in front of the opening of llosario Strait, some 7 miles
within it, and is 4 miles in length, rising to a height of 1,.520 feet near its
northern end. It obtained its name from producing an abundance of upright
cypress trees. Its southern side consists of alternate white cliffs, and si ping
ground covered with fern or trees. Rocks and foul ground, with much kelp,
extend about half a mile from its S.W. point, towards Burrows Island.

On its western side, and at IJ mile from its S.W. point, is Strawberry Bay,
so named by Vancouver from the great quantity of very excellent strawberries
found there when Mr. Broughton first visited it. It is of small extent, and
not very deep, but there is excellent anchorage in 6 to 10 fathoms, muddy
bottom, behind the outlying rocky islet named Strawberry or Hautboy. When
at anchor in 1 G fathoms, fine sandy bottom, the South point of the bay bears
North tacijic. 2 y

■*yj

f 'Li

nil)

THE STRAIT OF JUAN DE FUCA, ETC.

] I

. h
I

(■
I

( .
I

111:
iii'

S.K. i S. ; Strawberry [Hlot, round which is a clcnr jjood pnssnpio, Wost: nnd
the bottom of the bay Knst, nt the diHtancc of about three-quurtcrs of a mile.
This situntion, Uiough very commodious in respect to tlie shore, is greatly ex-
posed to the winds und uen in a S.S.K. direction. In fair wcutlier wood and
good water may be easily procured.

The strait here is only 1 } mile wide, and from here will he •'•on Ttald Peak,
n perjjendicular rocky peak, 750 ft. high, on the North end of Cypress
Island.

Jiock Islet is a small round islet, covered with trees, lying nearly 2 cables
northward of the North end of Cypress Island, with a passage of U fatlionis
between. Cyprfss lieef, lying one-third of a mile W. J S. from Kock Islet, is a
datujiroHs rocky patch, with kelp growing about it, covering at half flood.

Sinclair Island, thickly wooded, and comparatively V)w, lies half a mile to
the north-eastward of Cypress Island, with a deep j)assnge between them, lead-
ing to ndlingham Channel. Au extensive and dangerous shoal, the Panama
Rue/, extends nearly half a mile in a W.N.W. direction off its N.W. extreme,
some parts of it uncovering at half-tide ; a large boulder stands on the inner
part of the reef. There is anchorage in 10 to 15 fathoms, half a mile off tho
North side of the island.

Guemes Island lies to the eastward of Cypress Island and North of Fidalgo
Island, and to the eastward of these the main land forms Padilla Pay. Hetwecii
(Juemes and Cypress Islands is Bellingham Channel, leading towards lielling-
ham Hay.

BELLIXOHAM BAY is separate*! from Padilla Bay to the South by a long
narrow peninsula, of which William Point is the West extreme; the village of
ISamish is situated on the point. There are a number of channels leading into
it through the cluster of islands before alluded to ; and the bay itself extends
about 12 miles N.W. ami S.E. It everywhere affords rrood and secure an-
chorage. Opposite to its North jjoint of entrance the shores are high and
rocky, with some detached rocks lying off it. Here is a brook of most excellent
water. To the North and South of these rocky cliffs the shores are le.ss elevated,
especially to the northward, where some beautiful verdant lawns are seen. The
land generally is inconvenient for communicating with, on account of a shallow
Hat of sand or mud which extends a considerable distance off the land.

In the Spanish survey this bay appears in two portions, the northernmost
being named Gaston Bay, This part is separated from the gulf by a long,
narrow peninsula, terminating in Point Francis ; au inlet lying in the middle
of the bay is called Puerto del Socorro, and the southern jjart of the bay is
called Padilla Bay, an a])pellation confined in the recent charts to that still
farther South. Coal, or rather lignite, has been found and worked in the
sandstone beds in Bellingham Bay, but of late years the mines have been very
little worked, since the opening up of the Vancouver Island mines and those
ou Puget Sound.

fiuemr

to the

North

South {

l)oint

around

From I'

part of

and the

mile fro;

Lumn
very nar
able dou
(lungers t
Belliiighi
10 to 15
Island, u;

irhit,',

showing 1
is !) miles
distant K
Island.
Birch ]

N.W.; till

entrance j

off it, and

Jims in a ?

10 fathoms

with Whiti

Semiahn

promontorj

wliieh bear

tends in a r

South banii

streams atui

at low wate

^'cssels si

bluff of Rob

bearing Icat

general dept

ground. It

11 feet.

hi;m,in(jiiam hay— houndary hay.

847

7)fV?r/rV(»w.— Vessels bound for Hc'Uinghum Hay piwa bftwuen Pypnss und
Ciuemes Islands, the channel runnitij^ about U miles N. by \V. ^ W., and thou
to the eastward between Sinclair and Gucnies Islands. At 2 miles \.l-',. of tho
North point of Clucmcs Island is Vendovia hlnnd ; pas* North of tliis, and
iSouth of tho small islet offKliza Island, 2 miles to N.K. by N. i'roin the N.W.
point of Vendovia. If tho current be Hood, and the wind li^iit, ke«?p close
around Ouemcs and Vendovia Islands, to avoitl bein^ set post Sinclair Island.
From Mli/.u Island steer for the eastern shore, and follow itM trend to the N.K.
part of tho bay, when tho buildings will point out tho position of the mines
nnd the villa<;!;e8 of Sehome ami Whatvom. Here tliero is anchorugo at half a
mile from the shore in 4 fallioms, soft bottom, in very smooth water.

Lummi Island, off the N.\V. point of Hellingiiam May, is 8 miles long, and
very narrow. On its south-western side it is high and precipitous, a remark-
nble double mountain rising I,3()() ft. abruptly from the sea. There are no
dangers off its western side, and on its eiisteni side is the N.W. channel into
Hellingham Hay. Abreast Clark Islatul there is a contracted anchorage in
lU to 15 fathoms, and shelter from northerly winds, on tho West side of Lummi
Island, under a low point named Village Point.

H'hiti'horn Point is a remarkable bold bluff, about 150 ft. high, its face
showing as a steep white clay cliff. It is the southern point of Hircli Hay, and
is '.) miles N.W. \ N. of the North point of Lummi Island, and N.K. by N.
distant 10 miles from the entrance of the strait, belw.cn East Point and I'atos
Island.

Birch Bay is between Whitehorn Point and South HIufT, 3 niilcs to tho
N.W. ; the latter, which is a moderately high rounding point, forms the North
entrance point of the bay. Some large boulder stones stand a short distance
off it, and should not bo rounded at a less distance than half a mile. The bay
runs in a N.N.E. direction for 2\ miles. The holding ground is good, in J to

10 fathoms, and with S.K. gales it affords excellent shelter. A good berth is
with Whitehorn Point bearing South, distant a mile, in i fathoms.

Semiahmoo or Boundary Bay is an extensive sheet of water Ijotween the
promontory of Koberts Point on tho West, and South lUuff on the Kast,
which bear W. by S. and K. by N. of each other, S miles apart. The bay e.\-
tends in a northerly direction for nearly 7 ujiles, and is only separated from tho
South bank of Frascr Kiver by a low delta ;i miles across, intersected by
streams and swamps. All its upj)er part is shallow, and dries off for 3 miles
at low water.

Vessels should never stand so far to the northward as to bring the white
bluff of Roberts Point to bear to tho southward of S.W. by W., which line of
bearing leads less than half a mile outside the shoal edge of the bank ; tho
general depth of water outside this line is from 7 to 15 fathoms, good holding
ground. It is high water, on full aud change, at 4'' 50"" ; springs rise nearly

11 feet.

■1 i AvXf* </J •

8 '<

lii

£2S3S^S^SE£Sfi2

;}48 THE STRAIT OF JUAN DE FUCA, ETC.

The boundary between Washington Territory and British Columbia is
marked on the shore, and also along the parallel of 49°. by iron beacons or
pillars, set up by Capt. Kichards, in July, 1861. , , .

' Drayton Harbonr. at 3i miles N. by E. of South Bluff, is formed by a re-
„.arUble low narrow spit, over a mile long, whieh is the termmat.on of he
bluff itself. The spit is covered with grass and dr.ft t.mber, and a few pme
fees grow on it. Several wooden buildings were erected on it m 1858, and
received the name of Scraiahmoo City.

There is 5 fathoms water in the entrance, but the channel is narrow, and no

vessel unacquainted with the locality can enter, unless by placing boats or

nolcs on the edges of the shoals. ,4.

The northern shore of Juan de Fuca Strait will be described ui the next

Chapter.

;ll

r i

( 34'J )

CHAPTER VI.

VANCOUVER ISLAND, ETC.

Phior to 1789 the outer coast of this island was supposed to bo that of the
American continent, but in that year its insular character was established.

The first intimation in Europe of the existence of the channel which sepa-
rates Vancouver Island from the continent was in the observations ])reHxed by
Capt. Meares to the Narrative of his Voyages. In the chart aceompanyiiiy;
that work there is a sketch of the track of the American sloop Wdkhiuyton, in
the autumn of 1789, which is that through the inland navigation presently
described. The name of the commander is aot given ; but it was naturally
supposed that Capt. Gray, of the Columbia, previously mentioned, was the
person. In the angry discussion which ensued between Meares and Dixou
relative to the remarks of the former, it is stated that Mr. Kcndrick was the
commander of the Washinyton, who perhaps took it after it had l)een (jiiitted
by Gray. Therefore Kcndrick,* in the sloop Washinytoti, must be taken as
the person who really made known the real character of the territory in
question, after the formerly discredited voyage of its discoverer, De Kuca,
in 1592.

Vancouver reached the coast in Maych, 1792, and after navigating through
the strait to the eastward, he applied the names Quadra and Vancouver Island
to it ; the first name in compliment to the Spanish commandant at Nootka
Sound, from whom he received much politeness during the negociations rela-
tive to the restoration of the tract of country claimed by Great Britain, as
mentioned hereafter. The first name, however, has been dropped, and that of
the surveyor only retained for it, which is certainly preferable, as the Spanish
governor took ho part in ita geographical advancement.

It remained in the same state, untenanted by Europeans during many sub-
sequent years, until later events gave it a new existence. It was only visited,
at regular intervals, on its north-eastern side, by the (ifl'icers and agents of the

• Kcndrick ncTer returned to Kuropo. He was killid in 1793, in Kiirakiikooii Viay, by
a ball ascidentully Urud fruni a. ItritiBh vvssol while saluting him.

"■ t !

850

VANCOUVEIl ISLAND, KIC.

iti

if:

II li '<

^! *

rr 'f

1 I

Iliulson's Ray Company for the trau:* in furs and other commo'lities collected
by the natives, and at Nootka Sound, oi. its 8.W. side, for refreshments, Sec.,
by th ' vessels in the North I'aeiP.c.

When, however, the treaty which severed Oregon and Wawhinpiton Territory
from Great Britain, and the thriving settlements ostahlished therein by the
lludson's Bay Company became surrounded by a foreign power and interest,
Vancouver Island assumed a fresh importance to English commerce.

'I'he Bntish crown granted the tteminion of Vancouver Island to the
Hudson's Bay Company by letters patent under the great seal, and dated
January 13th, 1849, whicli gav** the absolute lordshi]) and proprietorshij) of
the whole island, with itt' mines, dec., to the lIudMu's Ii»y CumpM»-y, at the
yearly rent of seven shillings.

In the course of time several diflRoulties and (ju*nitions arose between the
British Government and the Hudson's Buy Comj)ai\y, relative chiefly to the
lands occupied by the latter prior to 1849, and it was deemed advisable that
the government should regain the possession of the island, reserving to the
Company. ;ind those to whom they had disposed of the land, all previous
rights, and thus, by miilual agreement, it reverted to the Crown on February
3rd, 1862.

The prosperity of the island did not advance as was anticipated, and the
superior attractions of the gold-fields of British (^^olumbia no doubt tended to
add to the depression felt, especially in iStiO. A further anomaly existed in
the different policy maintained in these two adjacent young colonies, and, after
much strong feeling on both sides, the two colonies were united, or rather
Vancouver Island was attached to British Columbia by Act of I'arliament,
1866, a measure proclaimed in Victoria, its capital, on November 19th in that
year. The question of the future capital of the united colonies was then
mooted, and the decision was arrived at that NVw Westminster, proclaimed
the capital of British Columbia February 14th. 1859, must give way to the
superior advances and general commercir.l interest which belonged to Victoria.
This town was proclaimed as the capital on May 25th, 1808. In 1871 tho
province of ik-itish Columbia was admitted into the confederation of the
Dominion of Canada.

In the subsequent «<«scripti()n we commence with the Haro .Vrehipelago,
which lies to the S.E. of Vancouver Island, between it and Washington Ter-
ritory of the United Htateu, This congeries of islands and channels, so little
known and so little valued at the tiiiic. has been the subject of very serious
controversy and complication between the two nations, the I'nited States and
Great Britain, threaten'ng at one time to involve them in a war.* At the time
of the treaty which s 'parated Oregon fiom Great Britain, the charts showed

and

ahi\i;

• Thin subject is My discuniiod ,« the "Hittory of the Sun Juan Water Boundary
UucHion," by Viscount Milton, 1879,

^ ,ss

HARO AECniPELAOO.

3.il

only two chnnnels, tho oastorn one, that of llosario, being the only one used,
and the other marked on the old Spanish maps as the Cunal do Haro, hut
almost unknown and quite unused.

The vague wording of the treaty of 1841 said that "the channel" should he
the separation between the two territories, meanin<^, as is maintained, the
Canal de Kosario. IJut the United States Government, as soon as tho cuuntry
became valuable, insisted that Ilaro Channel was " the Channel," and thus
claiming the Island of San Juan as included in their territory. This island is
the only one worth having for colonization, as it commands all the channels
leading to the country of Uriti.sh Columbia, as well as the harbour of Victoria,
from which it is distant only /i or 6 miles. In order to adjust these rival
claims, Capt. G. H. Richards, II. N., arrived hero in November, 1850, in
U.M.8. Plumper^ ior tiio purpose of making a detailed survey, and fi.xing tho
boundary on tho parallel of 49° N. I'he results of this exliaustivc examiuiition
showed that, instead of one or two channels, there are three principal pas.sages
through the archipelago, and with very numerous ramifications from each. In
1 872 this question was subniittoil to the arbitration of the Emperor of Ucnuany,
who de^ .u J in favour of the United States.

lA, ',

THE HARO ARCHIPELAGO.

The HARO ARCHIPELAGO lies in the space separating Vancouver Island
from tl»e continent, the disumcc between them being about 20 miles, aiid the
islands coverin;; a space of about 400 square milei> in area. There are three
more im])ortant islands, San Juan, the westernmost and best, Orcas, the
northernmost and largest, and Lopez the southernmost. There are about
thirty minor islands and innumerable rocks, mere masses of trap rock covered
with ])ines.

The subsequent description taken, with some abridgments, from the Van-
couver Island Pilot, drawn up by Capt. G. II. Hichaids in lSfi4, and from
other and later ■lovirces of information, connnenees with the south-easterumost
portion, as following in geogruphieal order the previoub descriptions.

BOfiABIO STRAIT.

ROSARIO STRAIT is the easternmost and onf <.f the principal channels
leading from the Strait of FWa into that of Georgia. Its southern entrance
lies between Lopez and Fidalgo Islands, before described, and from thcueo its
general direction is from N.N.W. to N \V. for '2i> miles, when it enters the
latter strait. Its eastern side has been brwfly descrit>ed on pp. .'J45-0.

Like Ilaro iStrait, the llosario has several .small channels which branch ofT
to the eastward, and lead between islands to the Umtcd States settlements in
RelUugham Hay, or by a more circuitous route into tlic Strait of Georgia iuell'.

\%:

t.vTIs^'s

352

THE HARO AUCIIIPELAGO.

NN'*;

ii' !

t',

if.'^

The breadth of the strait varies from 5 miles to something less than 1 J mile,
the narrowest part being between Uhikcly and Cypress Islands. 'Ihe depth
varies from 25 to 45 fathoms, occasionally deeper.

The tides arc strong, from 3 to 7 knots in the narrower parts. The principal
dangers are the Bird and Belle Ev7cks, which lie almost in the centre of the
strait, 4 miles within the southern entrance. There are several anchorages
available for vessels delayed by the tides or other causes. The ebb tide here,
as in the narrower straits, runs from 2 to 2^ hours after low water.

LIGHT. — On the summit of Smith or Blunt Island (see p. 344), near the
West end, is a lighthouse, 35 ft. high, painted white, with a red lantern, which
shows, at an elevation of 90 ft. above the sea, a bright light, revolving every
half minute, and visible 15 miles.

Having m.ade Smith Island, which vessels bound from sea up Eosario
Channel should do on aboiU, a N.E. ^ E. bearing, it may be passed on cither
side. When New Dungcness light bears S. by W. keep it so astern, steering
N. by E., which leads midway between Smith Island and Fonle Bank, an
extensive kelp patch lying W. by S,, 8J miles from it, on which the least
water yet fovmd is 3 J fathoms. When to the northward of the patch, a course
may be steered for the entrance of the strait, which, however, should not be
entered at night. If passing to the southward of Smith Island, avoid two
kelp patches of 5 fathoms and loss water nearly 3 miles S.S.E. from the light,
and 4 miles W. by N. from Partridge Point, a remarkable white-faced cliff on
the main. Vessels from the southern parts of Vancotiver Island, bound up
Ilosorio Strait, should of course pass northward of Smith Island.

CAPE COLVILLE, the south-eastern extreme of Lopez Island, is the
western entrance point of Rosario Strait, which is here 4^^ miles wide. IVal-
moath Hill, flat-topped, and about 500 ft. high, rises immediately over it.
Colville Island, small, and bare of trees, about 50 ft. high, hes southward of
the cape, distant half a mile. Entering the strait, Colville Island should be
given a berth of a mile. Some other rocky islets lie between it and the cape.

Davidson Rock, drying 4 ft. p,t low water springs, lies East a little more
than 3 cables from the East end of C^olville Island, and South nearly a mile
from the cape itself. Kelp grows about the rock, but the patch is so small
that it is difficult to make out, the kelp being run under by the current.

Kellett Island is a small flat-topped islet, covered wit'.i grass, and lying im-
mediately northward, and close oil' the low extreme of Cape Colville. (.'ape
St. Mary, the next point northward of Cape Colville, and a little more than a
mile from it, foruis the southern point of Davis Bay. Ilulah Rocks, or Kellrtt
Lrdye, uncovered at low water, and marked by kelp, lie 3 cables N.E. by N.
of Cape St. Mary. There is a deep passage, between tlicm and the cape. Vesbels
passing outside them should give the cape a berth ■,)f a long half mile.

Davis Bay affords good and convenient anchorage in a moderate depth of
•rt-ater. After rounding Hulah Rocks, a vessel may stand to the westward into

\ ^k

llOSAKIO STRAIT— ORCAS ISLAND. * 3^3

the bay, and finchor in 6 fathoms, mud, little more than half a mile from the
shore. A kelp patch, on which there is shoal water, lies N. by W. a mile from
the cape. There is anchorage in from 4 to 8 fathoms anywhere within a mile
of the Enst shore of Lopez and Decatur Islands.

Bird Rock, lying almost in the centre of Rosario Strait, is ci>mposed of
three detached rocks close together, the southernmost being the lareest, and
20 ft. above high water. From Cape Colville it bears N. I E. nearly 4 miles,
and from the South end of James Island, S.E. by S. 1} mile. There is deep
water close to it, but on account of the strength of xo tides, sailing vessels
working up or down, particularly during light winds, are recommended to give
it a berth of half a mile.

Belle Hock is the most serious dar'ger in Rosario Strait, because it only
imcovers near low water, and the tides run over it from 2 to 5 knots. It lies
N. by K. i E. distant 6 cables ftom Bird Eock, and the passage between the
two rocks carries from 8 to 20 fathoms, but vessels are recommended not to
t.-ike it except in cases of necessity, on accoimt of the tides. Belie Eock is
easily avoided by day. The great danger of it to a sailing vessel is being left
with a light wind in the centre of the strait, as the water is too deep with
much prospect of an anchor holding in so strong a tideway.

James Island, almost divided in the centre, is a remarkable saddle i,sland,
with two summits, 2.50 ft. high, lying close off the East side of Decatur Island.
There are no dangers on its eastern side.

Blakely Island rises to an elevation of 1,044 ft. in its Horthem part ; its
eastern part, opposite Strawberry Island, is bold and rocky, ri>iiig to between
1)00 and 1,000 ft. IV/iite and lllack Itocks are three quarters of a mile apart,
and lie off the S.E. shore of Blakely Island. White Rock the southernmost,
is C or 8 ft. above high water, and a little more than a quarter of a mile from
the shore at the eastern entrance of Thatcher Passage (p. 301). Black Rock,
just awash at hi;^h sj)rings, lies X.E. by N. from White Rock, and half a mile
from Blakely Island. There is a deep channel between these rocks, us also
between them and Blakely Island.

The Peapods are two small rocky islets, bare of trees, lyii>g half a mile
from the western shore of Rosario Strait, and 1 \ mile southward of Lawrence
Point, the eastern extreme of Orcas Island. They are three-quarters of a mile
ap.art in a N.M.E. and S.S.W. direction, the aorthemmost. being the largest
and highest. A little to the westward of a line drawn between them is a third
rock which just covers at high M'ater. There are no dangers about them which
are not visible.

ORCAS ISLAND is the most extensive of the group known as the Haro
Archipelago, and contains the finest harbours. It is mountainous and in most
parts thickly wooded, although in the valleys there i- a eonsiderable t)ortion of
land availa))le for agricultural purposes, and partially clear of timber. Its

North Pucijic. 2 z

llll^^

3S4

THE HARO AIICIIIPELAGO.

El '

aouthera side is singularly indented by deep sounds, which in some places
almost divide the island. This is particularly the case in the Eost Sound,
separated only from the waters of the Strait of Georgia by a low neck of land
a mile across. On the eastern side of this sound, Mount Constitution rises to
an elevation of nearly 2,500 ft., wooded to its summit. Deer abound on the
iaiund ; coal, also, of inferior quality, is found here.

The eastern side of Orcas Island, between the Peapod Islets and Obstruction
Pass, falls back in a bight, where there is considerably less tide than in the
main stream of the strait, and if necessary a vessel may drop her anchor within
half a mile of the shore in about 16 fathoms.

Lmvrence Point, the eastern extreme of Orcas, is a long sloping point, the
termination of the ridge of Mount Constitution. Immediately on its North
side it rises abruptly in high, almost perpendicular clilFs, and trends to the
westward, falling back for 3 miles in a somewhat deep bight, which is rocky,
has deep water, and is unsheltered.

Ilosario Strait now lies between Orcas and Lummi Islands, the direct
channel being along the western shore of the latter in a N.W. J W. direction,
passing between it and Barnes and Clark Islets. Anchorage may be had, if
nece-sary, within a mile of the shore in 15 fathoms, between Sandy and
Whitehorn Points, northward of Lummi Island. This last island has been
briefly described on page 347.

Tides. — After passing northward of Lawrence Point, the ebb tide will bo
found to set to the eastward between Orcas and the small islands to the north-
ward of it, as well as lo the S.E. through the northern entrance of the strait.
When as high as Alden Bank, or about 8 miles above Lawrence Point, the
strength of the tides sensibly decreases, and while a vessel is eastward of a lino
between this bank and Roberts Point, she 'vill be entirely out of the strong
tides of the Archipelago and the Strait of Georgia. It is recommended will)
the ebb tide to work up on this shore.

Clark and Barnes Islands are two small wooded islands, 2 miles N.W. of
Lawrence Point. Two smaller islets. The Sisters, bare of trees, and a high
rock lie immediately S.E. of Clark Island. There is a passage 1^ mile in
breadth between these islands and Orcas with a depth of 45 fathoms. The
tides set strong about the Sisters, and the best and most direct channel is
between Clark and Lummi Islands.

Matia Island, 3 miles W.N.W. from Clark Island, and IJ mile eastward of
Suciii Island (which is 2 miles off the North side of Orcas Island), is a mile in
length. East and West, moderately high and wooded. Close oflF its East point
is Puffin Islet, and extending a short distance eastward of the islet is a flat
covering rock. Vessels bound through Rosario Strait are recommended to
pass eastward of Matia.

ALDEN BANK, 2 miles in extent Nortli imd South, and 1 mile East and
West, lies in the centre of the northern (.iilrance of ilosario Strart. .%»

MIDDLE CHANNEL.

35S

Southern limit is 2 miles North of Matia Island, aad there is a channel 3 miles
in breadth between it and the eastern shore.

Tlie depth of water on this bank varies from 3 to 7 fathoms, and in one spot
so little as 14 ft. is found. The bottom is in some parts rocky, with patches of
kelp growing on it ; in other parts it is sandy, and offers a convenient anchor-
age for vessels becalmed or waiting for tide.

Vessels pass.ag up or down are recommended to pass on the eastern side of
the bank.

)■

THE MIDDLE CHANNEL.

MI'DDLE CHANNEL is the centre of the three passages leading from the
Strait of Juan de Fuca into that of Georgia, and is bounded by Sr.n Juan
Island on the West, and the islands of Lopez, Shaw, and Orcas on the East.
Although a deep navigable ship channel, and eligiMc for steamers of the largest
size, the southern entrance is somewhat confined, and subject to strong tides,
with a general absence of steady winds ; the wide straits of Ro.virio and Ilaro,
on either side of it, are therefore far to be preferred for sailing vessels above
the size of coasters.

The general direction of the channel is N.N.W. for 5 miles, when it treads
to the W.N.W. for 7 miles to its junction with Douglas Channel. The southern
entrance lies between the S.E. point of San Juan and the West point of Lopez
Island. In entering, the danger to be avoided on the western side is Salmon
Bank, extending southerly from San Juan ; and on the eastern side WhiOd
Rocks, always out of water. The tides in this entrance run from 3 to 7 knots,
with eddies and confused ripplings.

Salmon Bank extends IJ mile South from Cattle Point, a bare point about
50 ft. high, the sloping termination of Mount Finlayson, and the S.E. extreme
of San Juan Island ; the least depth of water found on it is 10 ft., with rocky
patches, marked in summer by kelp.

Whale Rocks, on the eastern side of the entrance, are two black rocks a
cable's length apart, and 3 or 4 ft. above high water. A patch, on which kelp
grows, with 1 fathom on it, extends 2 cables S.E. of them, otherwise they are
steep-to, but it is not recommended to pass them nearer than a quarter of a
mile, as the tides set strongly over them.

Directions. — In entering Middle Channel from the westward or southward,
Cattle roint should be given a berth of at least IJ mile. Mount Erie, a re-
markable summit on Fidalgo Island, l,2oO ft. high, in line with Jennis Point
N.E. by E. i E., leads IJ mile South of Salmon Bank in 13 fathoms; when
the entrance of the channel is open, bearing N.N.W., or when Goose Island, a
small islet on the western side of the entrance, is in one with Turn Island, and
Orcas Nob bearing N.W. by N. J N., a vessel will be well to the eastward of
the bank, and may steer in for the pnssngc, Orcas Nob is a remarkable conical

V^T-'''J^' i ^'''V'""

'-■' ';'7':»^-*i»'*n

356

The haro archipelago,

I ]

I i

!• -

hill, with a bare stony Bummit, 1,100 ft. above the sea, rising over the West
side of Orcas Island.

Griffin Bay is an extensive indentation on the eastern side of San Juan, im-
mediately within the southern entrance of Middle Channel. Although so spa-
cious, yet from the great depth of water there is but a limited portion of the
bay available for anchorage, and this is in the southern angle, immediately off
the remarkable prairie land between two forests of pine trees. Half-title Hock,
Just awash at high water, lies W. J X., distant 1 J mile from Harbour Rock,
and 4 cables from the western shore of the bay. There is another rock, which
only UHcovers at or near low water, lying S.E. ^ S. 4\ cables from Half-tide
Eock, and N. J W. a third of a mile from the pier on the beach.

With all westerly or southerly winds, Griffin Ray affords good shelter; but
with those from North or N.E. it is considerably exposed. A stranger sliould
drop an anchor directly 12 fathoms is struck. North Buy, in the N.W. angle
of Griffin Ray, immediately under Park Hill, a bare grassy eminence, about
180 ft. high, affords good anchorage in 4 to 10 fathoms, with all winds but
those from S.E., to which it is somewhat exposed.

The greatest rise and fall at the southern entrance of Middle Channel, ou full
and change, is 12 ft. ; but little stream is felt at the anchorages.

Turn Island lies X.W. by N., nearly 5 miles from the South entrance of
Middle Channel. Turn Buck lies nearly a quarter of a mile N.E. of the island,
and covers at three-quarters Hood. The tide runs with great strength over this
rock, and vessels passing up or down the channel are recommended to give it a
good berth.

Friday Harbour is on the North side of the peninsula, immediately opposite
to North ]3ay ; it is rather confined, but offers good anchorage, and is easily
accessible to steamers or small vessels. There is a village here. Brown Island
lies in the entrance, and there is a passage on either side of it. The passage
in, westward of Rrowu Isla.id, is the widest and best, being 3 cables across. In
the centre of the entrance there is a rocky patch, with 3i fathoms at low water.
Anchor with the passage between the island and the main open, and the West
cliffy point of the former bearing N.E. in 9 fathoms.

Eeid Bock. — After rounding Turn Island, Middle Channel trends to the
•westward, and Reid Eock lies in the fairway; the least water on it is 12 ft.,
and it is surrounded by thick kelp, which, however, is sometimes run under by
the tide. The rock bears from the North point of Turn Island W.N. W. 1 1-lOth
\nile, and from the N.W. cliffy point of Brown Island N.E. by N. ^ N. three-
quarters of a mile. There is a clear deep channel on either side of it. After
passing Reid Rock, there arc no dangers which are not visible.

On its eastern side is the group known as the Wasp Islands, between and
among which is several passages leading between Shaw and Orcas Islands,
and communicating with the magnificent hurboui'S and sounds which deeply
indent thg southern coasts of the latter.

MIDDT.K CHANNEL— DOUGLAS CHANNEL.

S57

On llic western side of MiJclle Channel, 4 miles from Caution Point, is Rocky
Pxiy, with the small island of (fXeal lying in the centre of it. The bottoni is
rocky, and as the bay docs not afford much shelter, vessels arc not recom-
mended to use it imless in case of necessity.

Jones Island lies In the nortliern entrance of the channel, on the eastern
side, nearly half a mile from Orcas, being separated from tlic latter island by
Spring Passage. The island is generally wooded, but its western points arc
bare and grassy.

Spring Passage, between Jones Island and the West side of Orcas Island,
is a safe deep water channel, and saves some distance to a steamer passing up
or down Middle Channel, by Dougl is Channel. Some rocky patches extend a
cable off the south-eastern side of Jones Island ; and a rock, which covers at 2
feet flood, lies the same distance North of a small cove on the N.E. side of the
island ; so it is desirable to pass through in mid-channel ; the western side of
Orcas Island has, however, no dangers of! it.

Flat-top Island is in the northern entrance of Middle Channel, N.W. by W.
2 miles from Jones Island ; it is one-third of a mile in length, wooded, and
about 100 ft. high. Off its western side, distant 2 cables, is a rock, nearly a
cable in extent, and 15 ft. above high water.

DOUGLAS CHANNEL may be said to be the continuation of Middle Channel,
and leads into llaro Strait, between Orcas and Waldron Islands. There arc
other passages leading into the Ilaro, viz., westward of Elat-top Island, be-
tween it and Spiedcn and Stuart Islands ; and eastward of Flat-top, between it
and Waldron Island. In the former the confused tides and eddies are liable to
entangle a sailing vessel among Spicden and the neighbouring groups of small
islands and rocks ; in the latter, M^hite Hack, with its ofl'-lying dangers, oITcrs
serious impediments to the safe navigation of the same class of vessels.

Both shores of the channel are free from danger. If necessary, vessels will
find a stopping place in the bay southward of the Bill of Orcas in 12 fathoms.

The channel eastward of Flat-top Island, between it and White Rock, is
about the same breadth as the one to the West of it, but Danger liock, with 5
feet on it, which lies a little over a quarter of a mile S.E. by E. i E. from the
centre of White lloek, must be earei'ully avoided.

If passing between White Hock and Disney Point (the high stratified cliff of
Waldron Island), the latter should be kept well aboard if the ebb is running,
or a stranger is liable to be set on the rock.

It should be observed that the ebb stream continues to run down through
the whole of the passages in the Archipelago for two hours after it is low water
by the shore, and the water has begun to rise.

Patos Island, IJ mile long, lies 2'; miles E.N.E. from the East point. of
Satuma, on the South side of tiic Gulf of Georgia ; the passage between them
being the widest, and at j)rescnt most frequented, though not always the best
channel from Haro or Middle Channels into the Strait of Georgia. Active Vcve,

:B?^^ \

\' \ ■

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i a

dsd

THE fiARO ARCMlfKLAGO.

at its western end, is formed by a smnll islet connected at low water, and affords
nnchorngc for one or two small vessels.

The passage into the Strait of Georgia between Patos and Sucia Islands, al-
though considerably narrower than the one just mentioned, is for several reasons
at times to be preferred, especially for vessels passing through Middle Channel,
or for sailing vessels with a N.W. wind.

If intending to take the passage between Patos and Sucia, either up or down,
an excellent mark for clearing the Plumper and Clements Reefs, which are
dangerous patches (presently described), lying southward and northward of
Sucia, is to keep the remarkable round summit of Stuart Island, 650 ft. higli,
just open westward of Skipjack Island, the westernmost wooded island North
of Waldron ; this leads well clear of both the reefs, and the same ceurse,
N.E. I N., continued, would cross Alden Bank in 5 fathoms.

If taking the passage from Middle or Douglas Channels, keep tbe white
faced cliffs of Roberts Point well open westward of Patos Island, or keep the
West end of Patos Island on the starboard bow until the marks before described
are on, when steer through the passage. If the ebb stream is running, it is
better to keep the Patos Island shore aboard ; 16 fathoms will be found on the
Sucia shore, but it is not recommended to anchor unless positively necessary.

In standing to the north-eastward, when Clark Island is open of the East end
of Matia, or Puffin Islet, a vessel will be eastward of Clements Reef.

SUCIA ISLAND is of a horse-shoe shape, remarkably indented on its
eastern side by bays and fissures, running in an F.ast and West direction ; the
largest of these, Sucia Harbour, affords fair anchorage in 10 to 15 fathoms,
mud bottom, open to the East. The island is from 200 to 300 ft. high, thickly
covered with pines, and its western side a series of steep wooded bluffs. The
dangers lying off it are Plumper and Clements Reefs; the former has 10 ft.
water on it, and lies S.W. by S., 1 J mile from Lawson Bluff, the highest N.W.
point of the island ; N.N.W. 2J miles from the Bill of Orcas, a remarkable
bare knob point on the island of that name ; and S. by E. nearly 2 miles from
the East point of Patos Island. There is a deep passage between Plumper
Reef and Sucia, but it is not recommended.

Clements Reef has 9 ft. on it, and lies N.E. \ N., 1 J mile from Lawson Bluff;
N.W. i W., 1 mile from Ewing Island, the N.E. point of Sucia ; and E. ^ N.,
2 miles from the East end of Patos. Some rooky patches, covering at high water,
and marked by kelp, lie between Clements Reef and Ewing Island, and it is not
safe to pass between them. There is a deep channel of more than a mile in
breadth between Sucia and Matia, the island to the eastward of it.

Parker Reef is a considerable patch lying in the passage between Sucia and
Orcas Islands, and at low water uncovers a quarter of a mile of rock and sand ;
its eastern end always shows its rocky summit above water, and bears from Nob
Point or Orcas Bill N.E. J E., 2 J miles, and from the East point of Sucia,
b, i E., IJ- mile. There is a passage on either side of the reef; that to th«

t 1

MIDDLE rilAXNEL-LOPEZ ISLAND.

8ft9

Uv^V

loutliward, between it and Orcos, is half a mile wide, but a strauyer is reoom
mended not to use it.

Malta Island, a little more than a mile eastward of Sucia, haa been before
alluded to.

LOPEZ ISLAND. — We now return to the islands and passages on the eastern
side of Middle Channel. Lopez is the southernmost of the islands, and helps
to form the western side of Rosario Strait, as it docs the eustern side of Middle
Channel. It is 9 miles long. North and South, 3 miles wide, East and West,
and thickly wooded, but differs from all the other islands of the Iluro Archi-
pelago in being much lower and almost flat, except at its northern and southciTi
extremes, where elevations occur of a few hundred feet. Its southern side is
a good deal indented by bays and creeks, which, however, from their exposed
])osition and rocky nature, cannot be reckoned on as anchorages. On its
western side, in Middle Channel, is a creek terminating in an extensive lagoon,
the former ofiering great facilities for beaching and repairing ships. On the
North shore is Shoal Hay, affording anchorage ; and on the East is the spacious
and excellent sound of liopez, which has an entrance from Middle Channel, as
well as three distinct passages from Rosario Strait.

McKaye Harbour is on the South coast of Lopez Island, 2 miles eastward
of the entrance to Mif''^.le Channel. It is entered between Jennis Point on
the South, and Long and Charles Islands on the North ; from the latter it runs
easterly for a mile, and then trends to the southward for a short distance, ter-
minating in a low sandy beach. In the entrance there is from 8 to 12 fathoms,
muddy bottom, but with the prevailing south-westerly winds the anchorage is
a good deal exposed. Coasters or small vessels drawing 12 ft. may get shelter
in the South bight ; with northerlv or easterly winds there would be fair an-
chorage.

Shark Reef, on the western side of Lopez Island, immediately within
Middle Channel, and half a mile northward of White Cliff, consists of two rocks
generally awash, extending something more than a cable off shore, and which
must be avoided by vessels working up the channel. There are no dangers oa
the coast of the island above this reef.

Careen Creek, on the West side of Lopez Island, is 4 miles within the entrance
of Middle Channel. The western entrance point is a low sandy spit, close
round which there is 3 fathoms, and on it a vessel might be beached and re-
paired with much facility, and perfectly sheltered ; the creek terminates in a
large salt lagoon.

Upright Channel, separating Lopez from Shaw Islands, is a deep steep
passage leading from Middle Channel to the sounds of Orcas and Lopez, and
by several passages into Rosario Strait. The narrowest part of the entrance is
between Flat Point and Canoe Island, where for a short distance it is scarcely
2 cables in breadth. A rock lies a cable South of the South point of Canoe
Island, marked by kelp. The tides are not considerable in the channel. At

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THE HARO ARCIIIPKLAOO.

1 J mile from Flat Point, on the South side of the channel, is Upright TTill, the
Btecp clifTy North extreme of Lopez Island. It is covered with timber, and
from 200 to 300 ft. high.

Shoal Hay lies immediately eastward of Upright Hill, and runs in a S.S.E.
direction for a mile to its head, which is separated from False Bay, in T-opez
Sound, by o low neck a cable's length across. Although npjjarently a consider-
able sheet of water, the anchorage for large vessels is much limited by a shoal
which extends from just within the point of Upright Hill towards the eastern
point of the bay, and more than half-way across.

LOPEZ SOUND, on the eastern side of the island of that name, runs in a
8.8.E. direction for 7 J miles, or nearly the whole length of the island, its head
reaching within half a mile of the waters of Fuen Strait. Its eastern side is
formed partly by Lopez and partly by Decatur and Rlakdy Lslands, lying
parallel with it ; and between these islands, as well as northward of the latter,
arc passages leading into Rosario Strait. The average breadth of the sound is
nearly H mile, and there is a convenient depth of water for anchorage in almost
ever}- part of it.

The sound may be entered from the westward through Middle and Upright
Channels, and from the eastward by Obstruction Passage, or by Thatcher and
Maury Passages.

Until as far South as Frost Island, which is nearly 2 miles within the en-
trance of the sound, the general depth of water is from 20 to 30 fathoms.
Thatcher Passage, leading into Kosario Strait, between Blakcly and Decatur
Islands, now opens out, aud in proceeding up the sound the depth soon decreases
Ic 9 fathoms, varying between that and 5 fathoms for a distance of 2i miles, or
as high as Houston Island. The only impediment between Frost and Houston
Islands is Middle Bank, on which, however, there is not less than 3 fathoms at
low water. It is half a mile in extent North and South, 2 cables East and
West, and lies almost in the centre of the sound, its North end bearing S.S.E.
a quarter of a mile from the South end of Frost Island, and S.W. by W. J W.
1 i mile from the North entrance point of Thatcher Passage, or South point of
Blakely Island.

Entrance Shoal, with 2 fathoms on it, and marked by kelp, must be avoided
by vessels working in. It lies E. by N. J N. 1 J mile from Upright Point, and
half a mile from the shore of Blakely Island ; there is deep water on either
side of it.

False Bay is on the West side of the sound, a mile from Shoal Bay, their
heads being only separated by a low narrow neck, 200 yards across, the clifly
extreme of the peninsula being Separation Point. It is unfit for anchorage,
except for small vessels. Half-tide Rock, covering at half-flood, and not marked
by kelp, is in the track of vessels entering. It lies S.lv by E. i E. three-quarters
of a mile from Separation Point, and N.W. by N. 2 N. 4 cables from Arbutus
Island. Froit Island liee close oflT Gravel Spit on the West side of the sound.

end

enti
the;
in 5

MIDDLE CIIANNEL-TIIATCHER PASSAGE.

361

It is wooded, and ita western side is a steep cliff, between which and the spit
end there is a narrow channel of 5 fathoms.

Black Iilcti are a ridge of steep rocky islets, lying within and across tho
entrance of Maury Passage. At 2 cables 8. by W. from the southernmost of
these islets is a rock which covers at quarter-flood. There is good oncborago
in 5 fathoms in the bight, westward of Crown Islet.

THATCHER PASSAGE, between Vlakclyand Decatur Islands, is tho widest
and most convenient passage into Lopez Sound from Ilusario Strait. It is 1 ^
mile in length, and its narrowest part 4 cables wide, with a general depth of
from 20 to 25 fathoms. Lau-son Rock, lying almost in tho centre of the eastern
entrance, is the only danger, and covers at 2 ft. flood. There is a good passage
on cither side of the rock ; that to the southward is the best.

Uanry Passage, between Decatur Island and the S.E. part of Lopez, is tho
southernmost entrance to the sound from Rosario Strait. It is scarcely 2 cables
wide at the entrance, with a depth of 12 fathoms. Black Islets lio across the
western entrance, and it is necessary to keep to the southward, between them
and Lopez.

Obstruction Passages. — Obstruction Island lies in tho centre of the channel,
between the North point of Blakely and the S.E. point of Orcas Island, and
forms a safe and convenient communication on cither side of it, between Middle
Channel and Rosario Strait by Upright Channel ; they likewise lead from Eo-
snrio Strait to tho Sounds of Orcas and Lopez. The passes arc more adapted
to steam than sailing navigation, although there would bo no difficulty to a
sailing vesisol with a leading wind and fair tides. Small vessels would never
find any difficulty by studying the tides.

North Obstruction Pass is about 1^ mile long, and its average breadth 2
cables. There arc no dangers which are not visible. The eastern entrance bears
from Cypress Coue, a remarkable bare peak on the North end of Cypress Island,

w.s.w.

South Obstruction Pass, though narrower than tho North, is perhaps tho
better channel of the two. It is not above three-'^uarters of a mile in length,
and is perfectly straight ; its direction N.E. and S.W. In its narrowest part
it is not much over a cable wide. On the South side of tho eastern entrance
two rocks extend off Blakely Island, the inner one always above high water ;
the outer, n long black rock, is nearly a quarter of a mile off shore, and just
owash at high water.

SHAW ISLAND is much of tho same character as Lopez, though consider-
ably smaller, being about 3 miles in extent, measured in any direction. It is
the continuation of tho eastern side of Middle Channel, and between it and
Orcas Island lie the Wasp group, among which arc several passages leading to
the harbours of Orcas and Lopez, and into Eosario Strait.

Wasp Islands, five in number, besides some smaller islets and r^cks, lie on
North Pacifc. 3 ▲

862

THE HARO ARCHIPELAGO.

the vastorn side of Middle Channel, between Shaw and Orcas Islands. Ytllow
island, the westernmost of the group, \i rather remarkable from its colour,
grassy, and nearly bare of trees, the remainder of the group being wooded.
From its West end a sandy spit extends for a cable's length, with a rock on
the extreme, bare at low water, and round which kelp grows ; therefore, this
loint should bo given a berth in passing up or down Middle Channel. North-
ward of Yellow Island are Brown and lieef Islandt ; off the West side of the
latter a reef extends for more than a cable's length. Wtup Pasiage leads
through this group to the sound of Oreas and to Rosario Strait. With the
assistance of the chart a steamer would find but little difficulty in passing
through it, though the passage by Upright Channel is to be preferred.

If desired, a vessel may pass into Wasp Channel to the southward of Yellow
Island, between it and Low Inland, a small islet, thence northward of Nob Islet,
and as before directed, between Crane and Cliff Islands.

There is yet another passage into Wasp Channel soutlnvard of Cliff Island,
between it and Neck Point, the remarkable western extreme of Shaw Island.
These two latter passages are the shortest into Wasp Channel for vessels from
the southward. The eye M'ill be found the best guide ; a good lookout is
necessary, ond to a steamer there is no difficulty.

North Passage, — This clear, deep channel leading to Deer Harbour, the
westernmost port in Orcas Island, lies between Steep Point, the S.W. point of
Orcas, and Ilccf Island, the northernmost of the Wasj) group. It is nearly a
quarter of a mile wide, and 20 fathoms deep, and the only danger to avoid in
it is the reef off the West side of the latter island. Deer Harbour may be en-
tered equally well between Eeef and Hrown Islands. A patch of 2 fathoms
lies S.W. by W. nearly a cable from the N.W. point of the latter.

ORCAS ISLAND, the largest of the archipelago, has been before noticed,
as forming the western side of Rosario Strait. Its most elevated part. Mount
Constitution, 2,'18G ft., is on the eastern side. On the West side is Turtle Hack,
a long wooded range, 1,600 ft, and West of it again, rising immediately over
the sea, that singular bare-top cone known as Orcas Nob, a remarkable object
when seen cither from the North or South.

'I'lie ports of Orcas ore Deer Harbour, West and East Sounds ; but on the
western and northern sides of Orcas there is no convenient anchorage. A
vessel might drop on onchor, if necessary, southward of the Hill of Orcas, a
remarkable projecting bare point, with a knob on its extreme.

The North coast is steep and precipitous, except between tho Bill and
Thompson Point, a distance of 2J miles. Immediately off this part of tho
coast is Parker Reef, described in page 358. From Thompson Point, a bare
cliffy point, the coast forms a slight curve easterly to Lawrence Point, distant
6 miles. Lawrence Point, the sloping termination of tho high range of Mount
Constitution, is tho eastern extreme of Orcas Island ; on its northern side it i«
a steep and almost perpendicular cliff,

tnl

Isll

dill
raJ

Inkl

bei

froil

MIDDLE CHANNEL— 0RCA8 ISLAND.

8C3

Deer Harbour is the westernmost of the three ports of Orcns, and, us before
observed, is conveniently entered from Middle Channel by North Passage be-
tween Steep Point of Orcns and IJeef Island, or between the latter and Urown
luland of the Wasp group. The harbonr is a mile long in a North and South
direction, and about the same breadth at its southern end ; it narrows, however,
rapidly, and terminates in a shoal creek, and fresh-water streams fed from a
lake. Fawn Islet lies off the steep cliffy shore of the West side of tlic harbour;
below it the depth of water varies from 1 to 15 fathoms, abreast and above it
from 5 to 8 fathoms. The bottom is mud.

Weit Sound may be entered from Middle Channel, «,'!ther by the Wnsp or
Upright Passages, already described, or from Eosario Strait by cither of tho
Obstruction Passes. Having entered by Wasp Passage, cleared Passage Uock,
and being off llroken Point — a remarkable clilly jioiiit, the extreme of a small
peiiiusulu on the North side of Shaw Island— West Sound will be open, ex-
tending in a N.W. i N. direction for more than 2 miles, with Orcas Nob im-
mediately over the head of it. The breadth of the sound is about three-
quarters of a mile, and the depth of water from 10 to 10 fallioms, with no
hidden dangers.

White Beach J!ai/, so named from the qnantitics of white clam shells, tho
remains of native feasts, lying on its shores, and giving them the appearance of
white sandy beaches, is on the eastern side of the sound, 2 miles above Itroken
Point. Massacre Uay is the continuation of the head of the sound, between
Ilai'.la and Indian Points, and the anchorage is nearly a mile above White
IJeach 15ay. Harbour lioch, covering at one-third flood, 'ies almost 'v\ the
centre of the bay, between the two entrance points.

Harney Channel, between Orcas and Shaw Islands, connects the West and
Kast Sounds of Orcas. It commences nt Broken Point, and runs in an easterly
direction for 3 miles, when it enters Upright Channel between Foster and
Hankin Points ; the former is a low sloping green point, the southern termina-
tion of the peninsula which separates the two sounds ; the latter is the eastern
bluff wooded point of Shaw Island. N.W. from Hankin Point is a rocky patch
which lies more than a cable off shore, and covers at half flood. Camp Cove
is immediotely northward of Foster Point; it is a convenient cove for boats,
or a small yesfel. Iligh-ivater Hock lies more than a cable's length from the
shore, and half a mile north-eastward from Foster Point; it is awash nt high
water.

Mind Bay, on Shnw Island, is on the South shore, midway between Broken
and Hankin Points. A small round islet, partially wooded, lies in the centre
of tho entrance, and a reef of rocks, covering nt high water, extends from its
western point, almost choking the entrance on that side. A rock, covering at
a <iuarter flood, also lies off the eastern side of the islet, so that the bay is only
eligible for coasters, which should keep the island close aboard in entering.

East Sound. — Entering this sound by Upright Channel, or through th«

. i

864

THE HARO ARCHIPELAGO.

Wasp Passngrs nnd Ilamry Channel, when abreast Upright 11111, from which
Diamond Point, th<i western point of the sound, bears North 2 miles, its cu-
tranco will bo easily made out. If by the Obstruction Passes, as soon as n
vessel is at their western entrance, the whole length of the sound will be open,
bearing N.W. ^ W. A remarkable conical hill, over 1,000 ft. high, rises on
either side of the entrance, which lies between Diamond and Stockade Points.
From between these points the sound runs in a N.W. by \V. direction for
G miles ; for the first 2 miles the breadth is three-quarters of a mile ; it then
contracts at Cascade Bay to half a mile, and opens out again above to more
than a mile. The head of the sound terminates in two bays, a jutting clitfy
point separating the two. The general depth of water in the sound is
15 fathoms.

Stockade Bay, en the eastern side of the sound entrance, nearly a mile North
of Stockade Point, the north-western entrance point of North Obstruction
Pass, affords anchorage in 8 fathoms, about 3 cables from the shore.

Green Bank, on the western side, immediately opposite Stockade Bay, is a
bank of sand extending halfway across the sound ; on it there is from 5 to 9
fathoms, with one patch of 4 fathoms. On the eastern side of the sound, 2
miles above Stockade Bay, is a small hook facing the S.E., forming Cascade
Bay. A large stream falls by a cascade into the bay, and it would be a con-
venient place to water a ship.

HABO STRAIT.

HARO strait, the westernmost of the three channels leading from the
Strait of Fuca into the Strait of Georgia, is bounded on the western side by
Vancouver Island, and its off-lying smaller islands and reefs, and on the eastern
side by the islands of San Juan and Stuart, and runs in a N.W. by N. direc-
tion for 18 miles; it then turns sharply to the N.E. round Turn Point of Stuart
Island, for a further distance of 1 2 miles, leaving Saturna Island to the west-
ward, and Waldron and Putos Islands to the eastward, when it enters the
Strait of Georgia between Saturna and Patos Islands. It forms the boundary
between the British and United States territories.

It is for the most part a broad, and for its whole extent a deep navigable
ship channel ; but on account of the reefs wh>ch exist in certain parts, the
gencrul absence of steady winds, the scarcity of anchorages, and, above all,
the strength and varying direction of the tides, much care and vigilance is
necessary in its navigation, and it is far more adapted to steam than to sailing
vessels.

Besides the main stream of the Haro Strait thus described, there are several
smaller channels and passages branching from it by which vessels may enter
the Strait of Georgia ; thus Swanson Channel leads into the strait by Active
Pass (formerly Plumper Pass, by which name it is more generally known),

it*. AtJ*fU« J^ ■4i3-MV->'

HARO STRAIT.

365

and the Trincomalio and Stuart Ckaniicls by the Torticr Pass, or Dodd
Narrows.

These channels may be again entered by smaller ones ; thus Sidney and
Cordova Channels, on the western side of llaro Strait, lead by Moresby and
Sltuto Passages into the Swanson and Stuart Channels, and finally into the
Strait of Georgia. These channels arc essentially adapted to steam navigation,
or to coasting vessels; they afford smooth water, and many of them anchorages.
They will be described in their proper order.

Middle Bank, lying in the southern entrance of Ilaro Strait, E. by N., 4
miles from Discovery Island, and almost in mid-channel, is a rocky patch about
2 miles in extent each way, and the least water found on it is 10 fathoms. In
bad weather there are heavy tide ripplings on and in the vicinity of this bank,
which are dangerous to boats or small ciiift.

Zero Rook. — The principal dangers in the southern part of Ilaro Strait arc
Zero Kook and Kelp Ileefs. The former lies on the West side of the strait, is
about half a cable in extent, covers nt three-quarters flood, and its vicinity is
marked by kelp; it bears from the East point of Discovery Island N.W. GJ
miles, and from the high white clifT of Cowitchin Head E. by S. 3J miles.

Kelp Reefs lie almost in the centre of Ilaro Strait, N.W. by N. i N., 7J
miles from the East point of Discovery Island ; E. by N. J N., 5 miles from
Oowitchin Head ; and East 2 miles from the South end of Darcy Island. They
uncover at low springs, and are well marked by kelp, which extends in
detached patches to Darey Island. A lnwi/ was moored on their eastern side.
Unit Rock lies E. by N. i N. thrce-quartcro of a mile from the S.E. point of
Darcy Island, and uncovers 2 ft. nt low tides.

DIRECTIONS, — Vessels passing up Ilaro Strait to avoid the atovc dangers,
after rounding Discovery Island at the distance of u mile, shovild steer N.N.V,'.,
or for Kellett Bluff of Henry Island, a remarkable steep rocky headland un
the eastern side. This course will clear Kelp Reefs by over a mile. In
working up, when standing westward, a vessel should tack when Low Island
is shut in with the S.E. point of Sidney Island, which will give Zero Rock a
good berth ; but when approaching Kelp Reefs, Rare Island must be kept well
open to the eastward of the same point to avoid them. The eastern or San
Juan shore is steep close-to.

When abreast Kellett RlufF from half a mile to a mile, a N.W. by N. course
will pass the same distance from Turn Point of Stuart Island. There are no
dangers extending far off this point ; but whirling eddies and tide ripplings,
caused by the meetings of the streams from so many channels, are generally
met with, particularly with the ebb. A vessel may reach this point with a
fresh southerly wind, but will almost invariably lose it here, until having opened
out the middle channel eastward of San Juan.

AftP- rounding Turn Point, a N.E. i N. course for 10 miles will lead to the
northci.. entrance of Ilaro Strait, between the East point of Saturna and Patos

I '

3C6

IIARO STRAIT.

Island. This pn.Mnge is 2^ miles in breadth, but is subject to heavy tide
ripplings and eddies ; it is recommended when poHsiblc to ])aHH through the
centre of it. The flood from Uosario Strait, which is met with as soon as tho
passage between Orcas and Sucia Islands is open, is apt to set n vessel
towards the Kast point of Saturna, otT which and 'i'unibo Island there is much
uneven and broken grounc wuh hea^'y races. This point should be given a
berth of a mile.

The ebb sets to the eastward even before the Strait of (Jeorgia is well open,
and a vessel finding herself not likely to weather Patos should pass between it
and Sucia, where there is a good clear passage of above a mile in breadth ; if
this passage is taken, the Patos Island shore should be kept rather aboard.
Deware of the Plumper and Clements Reefs; the former lies S.W. by S.,
1^ mile from the N.W. bluff of Sucia Island, and hns 10 ft. over it ; the latter
N.H. i N. the same distance from the snnio blutt', und has U ft. over it. When
in the Strait of Georgia from W. by N. to W.N.W. is a fair mid-channel
course. If bound for Fraser River, a N.W. by \V. course from tho centre of
the channel between Patos Island and Knst Point will lead to the Sand
Heads, the distance nearly 20 miles. Kntering the strait, and having ])a88ed
to tho northward of Patos Island, if the ebb is running n vessel is extremely
liable, unless with a commanding breeze, to be set to the eastward and down
Rosorio Channel.

The northern shore of Sucia Island should by all means be avoided. If Alden
Rank can be fetched, it offers n guo<l anchorage while waiting for a tide.

Cormorant Bay, between Gordon and Cowitchin Heads, on the western
side of Ilaro Strait, is a good stopping place, and easy of access under most
circumstances. Fresh water may be obtained on its southern shore. It may
be entered either to the southward or northward of Zero Bock ; the passage
to the southward is 1^ mile in breadth, with a depth of 20 fathoms. Mount
Douglas, a remarkable hill, 696 ft. high, with its summit bare of trees, rises
immediately over the coast at the head of the bay. Johmione liee/Mcs three-
quarters of a mile from the shore, midway between Cadboro Point nnd Gordon
Head, is marked by kelp, and of small extent. Three shoal patches, with from
6 to 12 ft. on them, lie W. J S., 1 to IJ mile distant from Zero Rock. There
is but little stream of tide in Cormorant Bay when within Zero Bock, and tlic
holding ground is good.

Although there ore many harbours among the archipelago of islands which
form Ilaro Strait and its tributary chonncls, yet the number eligible for sailing
vessels overtaken by darkness or an adverse tide is comporativcly small.

Rctwccn Cormorant Bay and the northern entrance of Haro Strait, Plumper
Sound and Cowlitz Bay are the only eligible stopping places for a sailing vessel
seeking shelter. - .

Stuart Island, indeed, affords two fair harbours, and Boche Harbour, at tho
N.W. end of San Juan Island is a suitable anchorage for steamers or small

HAUO 8TII AIT— PLUMPER SOUND.

807

coiUitci'B, but no Haili^.g tomcI of moderate tonnnge could enter cither, under
ordinary circumstances, without great loss of time as well as risk.

Tidei. — The stream of tide runs fairly through the main channel of Ilaro
Strait, outside Kelp Kcefs, and inside them through the Cordova and Sidney
Channels; passing outside Kelp Reefs, and eastward of Sidney Island, a
part of the flood stream will be found to branch off to the eastward, between
Snn Juan and Stuart Islands, and there meeting the flood from Middio
Channel, cause heavy races and eddies, so that although there are deep-water
channels between these islands, they are not recommended for sailing vessels ;
in like manner the flood runs to .' o N.W. between the group of islands north-
ward of Sidney Island, and through Shuto and Moresby Passages, though
the main stream will be found to run fairly between Stuart and Moresby
Islands.

FLUMFEB SOUND.— If from any cause it should bo found necessory to
anchor in that bend of Ilnro Strait between Stuart Island and the East point
of Saturna Island, this sound is recommended as u safe and convenient har-
bour, easy of access with the wind from any quarter. It is formed between
Pender and Saturna Islands, and the entrance lies N.E. by N. J N., 5 miles
from Turn Point of Stuart Island, and an equal distance from the I^ast point
of Saturna. liluntlen Island, about 2 cables in length, and close to the shore,
forms the western entrance point ; Monarch Head, a high, bold, rocky head-
land, the eastern. The sound runs in a W.N.W. direction for 6 miles, with
an average breadth of 1 i mile. There is anchorage in a moderate depth of
water in most parts of it, as well as several bays or harbours if preferred.

There are no dangers at the entrance ; either shore may be approached close,
in working up, and but little tide is felt.

Excellent anchorage may bo had in almost any part ; the most convenient
is off" the entrance of Browning Harbour, on the South side of the sound, in
8 fathoms. Above Browning Harbour, the only danger to bo avoided in
working up the sound is Perry Hock, with G ft. on it, marked by kelp ; it is
2 cables from tho shore and N.W. by N., three-quarters of a mile from Razor
Point, the North point of the harbour.

Browning Harbour is on the South side of Plumper Sound, 3 miles within
the entrance ; it runs in a West direction for IJ mile, and is a third of a milo
wide, but rather less at the entrance. The depth of water decreases gradually
from 10 fathoms nt the entrance to 4 fathoms at its head, with good holding
ground.

Lyall Harbour and Winter Cove lie in the S.E. corner of Plumper Sound,
and arc indentations in the N.W. end of Saturna Island.

Lyall Harbour is the southernmost, and its southern entrance point, a cliffy
bluff, bears N. J E., ii! miles from tho entrance of Browning Harbour. Tho
harbour runs East for 1 J mile, gradually narrowing and termbating in a sandy
beach with a good stream of fresh water at its head ; but Critpin Rock, with

S68

IIAUO STRAIT.

ft. on it at low water, dcorcoics its value as a harbour for sailing ycssels.
I1iis rock is a mcro pinnacle, nearly half a mile within tbo entrance ; there is
no kelp to give warning of its position, and it lies exactly in the middle of the
harbour. Jioot Cove, on the South side of the harbour, a third of a mile
within the South point, has 3 fathoms water, and is a convenient spot for
repairing a vessel. A small islet lies off its western entrance point.

Samael Island, between Satuma and Mayno Islands, is ainiust connected
with cither, but leaving two passages by which boats or even small coasters
may pass into the Strait of Georgia at proper times of tide. This island is
indented on its southern side by several bays, among them Winter Cute,
which is formed between its south-eastern side and the N.W. point of Saturna,
nud is only half a milo northward of Lyall Harbour. The depth of water in
the cove being only from 2 to 3 fathoms, it is only fit for small vessels, which
must pass to the westward of King Islets, and on cither side of Minx llecf.

NAVT CHANNEL is a continuation of the western part of Plumper Sound,
and leads between Pender and Mayne Islands into Triucomalio Channel. In-
dependently, therefore, of its value as an anchorage. Plumper Sound becomes
a highroad for vessels bound into the Strait of Georgia or Froser Hiver by
Active Pass, or to Nanainio, or any of the north-western ports of Vancouver
Island. From the north-western end of the sound abreast Fnno Island tUo
channel runs West for 3 miles, when it enters Trincomalie Chuuncl between
Mayne and Prevost Islands ; its average breadth is half a mile.

CoHconi Jieef lies about midway through Navy Channel, 1 J mile from Fano
Island, and nearly 2 cables off the northern shore, and narrows tlio strait at
that part to a third of a mile. It is a ledge of rocks extending in the direction
of the channel for more then a cable's length, and covering at half tide ; its
vicinity is marked by kelp.

Enterprise lieej's are two rocky patches, the westernmost of which dries at
low water, and both are marked by kelp. 'J'hc outermost of these reefs lies
W.N.W. 1 milo from Dinner Point, the N.W. entrance point of Navy Channel,
and S. by E. i\, o-thirds of a mile from Helen Point, the South point of Active
Pass. Vessels using Navy Channel should keep rather southward of mid<
channel. The shores of Pender Island arc bold.

Bedwell Harbour, on tho S.E. part of Pender Island, the entrance to which
bears North 3 miles from Turn Point of Stuart Island, and is the samo
distance westward of the southern entrance of Plumper Sound, is, on account
of its narrower entrance, not so eligible a stopping-place for vessels waiting
tho tide as the latter ; but for steamers it is a good harbour. Its narrowest
part, which is at the entrance, is a quarter of a milo in breadth, but it soon
opens out to half a mile, and runs in a W.N.W. direction for 2 miles, tho
depth of water being from 5 to 10 fathoms, mud bottom. The only danger
which does not show is Dreto Rock, with 10 ft. on it, in the centre of tho
harbour, and a third of a mile from its head. Camp Bay, between Bcdwcll

STUART ISLAND— srii:i)KN CIIANNKL.

369

Harbour and Pluinpcr Sound, and half ii milo westward of lilundcn Island,
offers shelter nn a stopping-place to small craft, when not conTenieut to work
into cither of these ports.

STUART ISLAND, lying 3 miles north-westward of the northern part of
the island of San Juan, is 3 miles long in an Kast and West direction, of an
irregular shape, and n'tout 650 ft. high, the summits of the hills partially hare
of trees. Turn Point, its N.W. extreme, a bold cliffy bluff, form** the salient
angle of Ilaro Strait, where it changes its direction suddenly from N.W. by N.
to N.E., before entering the Strait of (ieorgia. There are two aiichoragos
in Stuart Island, Reid JIarhour on its southern side, and I'revost Harbour
on its northern, but both are small and intricate for sailing vessels above the
size of coasters.

Johns Island, with its numerous off-lying reefs, lies to the eastward of Stuart
Island, and separated from it by n navigable chnnnol of 1 fathoms, but it is
narrow, and only recommended for coasters acquainted with the locality.

Spieden Island, lying between San Juan and Stuart Islands, is 2, miles long
in an East and West direction, and very narrow ; its southern side grassy and
bare of trees, its summit and northern side thickly wooded. Green Point, its
eastern extreme, is a slojjing grassy point. There is a channel on either side
of Spieden Island ; New Channel to the northward, and Spieden Channel to
the southward.

Spieden Channel, between the island of that name and San Juan, has a
general W. by S. direction. Its eastern entrance, between Green Point and
the N.K. point of San Juan, is two-thirds of a mile wide, and for 2 miles the
water is deep and clear of positive dangers ; the meeting of the flood-tide,
however, from Ilaro Strait with that from Middle Channel, causes heavy
ripplings and irregular eddies, and these, together with the general absence
of steady winds, render the navigation always tedious and dangerous for sailing
vessels ; its western entrance is encumbered with numerous reefs and shouls
with irregular soundings.

Sentinel Island stands in the western entrance of this channel. It is small,
bare on its southern side, about 150 ft. high, and bears E.S.E. two-thirds of a
mile from Spieden Bluff. Centre Reef is a dangerous patch, awash at low water,
and almost in the centre of the channel. It bears from Sentinel Island
S.W. by S. nearly half a mile ; from Spieden Bluff, the western extreme of
that island, S.E. by S. more than two-thirds of a mile ; and from Morse
Island, off the North point of Henry Island, N.E. by N. J N., 1 mile ; the
kelp will generally bo seen round the reef, but it is sometimes run under.
Danger Shoal is also at the western entrance ; it has 2 fathoms on it, and is
maked by kelp, though not always to be distinguished. It bears from
Spieden Bluff S.W. by S. J S. three-quarters of a mile. Hare Islet is a rock,
about 15 ft. high, lying in the southern part of the channel, E. by N. A N.
North Pacijic. 3 u

870

IIARO STRAIT.

1 milo from Morse Islond. There is a shoal patch of 15 ft. nearly 2 cablva
N.W. by N. from it.

Dirtciion: — Vessels bound from Haro Strait to the eastward through
Spieden Channel should pass about a quarter of a mile or less northward of
Morse Island, and then steer for Green I'uint, the Kast extreme of Spieden
Island, until Sentinel Island bears N.W. ; the dangers will then bo passed, and
a straight course may bo steered through.

If bound westward through this channel, if the passage between Spieden and
Sentinel Islands is not taken, the shore of Spieden Island should still bo kept
aboard within a quarter of a mile to aToid the tido races.

New Channel to the northward of Spieden Island, though narrower than
the one just described, is deep, more free from danger, and the navigation of it
more simple. The northern shore of Spieden Island is bold and nteep, an<l
should be kept aboard ; the narrowest part of the channel is a quarter of a
mile wide between Spieden and the Cactus Isliinds.

SAN JUAN ISLAND, the western coast of which forms for some diitanco
the eastern boundary of Ilaro Strait, is of considerable size, being 13 miivis in
length in a N.W. and S,K. direction, with ar average breadth of alout
4 miles.* Its western shores are steep :ind rocky, and afford no anchori.ge,
soundings from 100 to 150 fnthoms being found within half a mile of the coast.
Mount Dallas rises abruptly to a height of 1,086 ft., but the eastern side of
the island falls in n more gentle slope, and aiTords a considerable extent of
good land available fur agricultural or grazing purposes. Towards the
southern end. and visible from seaward, were some buildings, once a farming
establishment of the Hudson Hay Company, but now abandoned;! the south-
eastern extreme, which forms one of thi3 entrance points of the Middle

* Lord Milton's excellent work on the political importitnco of San Juan, and the discus-
sion which it gflvo rise to, has been before alluded to.

t Cupt. R C. Mnyne, R.N., in his intorosting book, " Four Years in British Columbia and
Vancouver Iiliind " (employed on the survey), thus spoHkg of San Junn Island. There is
more lund available for agriculture hero than on any other of the group; and of this the
Hudson Bay Company took advantage some years ago, and established a sheep-farv upon
it. It ii situated on a beautiful pruirie at the S.E. end of the <*1an<i, ^vh:ab, rising UO ft.
above the water, lookn most attractive to the emigrant posHing onward toward the Fraser.
1 have never seen wild flowers elsewhere grow with the be; uty and luxuriance they possess
here. Perhaps I cannot illustrate the attractions of San Juan hotter, than by saying that
it was the spot selected by bis Excellency the Governor's daughter and niece in which to
spend their honeymoons.

At onu time I believe the Company had as many as 3,000 sheep on the island, distributed
at various stations, all under Mr. Griffith's charge. Uis house, which is very pleasantly
situated, looks out on the Strait of Fuca, and commands a magnificent view up Admiralty
Inlet. Directly in front of it lies a bank, which is a very favourite fishing-station of the
Indians, where they catch a large number of salmon and halibut.

6 fit.
over I
and

IIKNUY ISLAND— WALDUON ISLAND.

•71

Channel, trrminntcs in a white clajr cliff, over which riiea Mount Fialayson to
a hpight of 550 feet.

Henry IiUnd.— Off the N.W. end of 8nn Juan lies Henry Itilnnd, being
only separated from it by a narrow channel called Mosquito I'assa^je. I lenry
Island would be taken as a part of 8an Juan, the passage appearing merely as
an indentation. KelUtt IHuff, the S.W. point of the inland, niakeit as the
most prominent headland on the eastern side of llaro Struit, when seen from
the southward. Immediately eastward of it is Open Bay, whieh has mure the
appearance of a channel than the true one, MuH(piito I'usitage. There in nut
either shelter in the bay, or anchorage in the passage, for anything bcyou!
coasters.

Hoiqaito PMsage runs in a northerly and N.N.W. direction for .*) miles, y*
something over half a mile in breadth, and is studded with numerous i cfs,
which are marked by kelp. When a mile within the passage, H'estcult creek,
an indentation in San Juan, '^^unches otf to the N.K., and affords a haven for
coasters. At the northern entrance oi Mosquito Passnj^e, the space bctw(..i
San Juan and J^'^nry Islands opens out considerably, and the deptli of water
increases. This space forms Roche Harbour, whieh must be entered from tho
northward by vessels of burden ; its entrance is somewhat confined but not
uneasy of access, and it affords good shelter when within. Morse Island, a
small flat cliffy island, about 30 ft. high, lies a quarter of a mile wcsttvard of
the North point of Henry Island ; and the entrance of Hochc Harbour is half
a mile eastward of the former. Small vessels leaving Koche Harbour, and
bound southward, may take the Mosquito Passage.

WALDRON ISLAND lies in the northern entrance of the Middle Channel,
and its anchorages are frequently available for vessels passing to or from Huro
Strait. The island is thickly wooded, moderately high, and cliffy on its
southern and eastern sides, but falling to the northward, where it terminates in
low sandy points. Dianey Point, its southern extrmne, is a remarkable high
stratified bluff.

Cowlitz Bay, on the western side of Waldron, between Disney and Sandy
Points, affords good anchorage with all winds, the depth of water from fi to 8
fathoms, and the holding ground stiff mud ; it may be sometimes more
desirable to anchor here than to work 2 or 3 miles up into Plumper Sound,
particularly for vessels coming up Middle Channel.

North Bay, on the N.W. side of the island, affords anchorage in 8 to 10
fathoms about a quarter of a mile off shore, but it is net b, any means so
desirable a place as Cowlitz Bay.

Daager Book, — This dangerous reef, mentioned on page 357, with only
5 ft. on it, and on which the kelp is rarely seen, lies S.E. by E. i E., a little
over a quarter of a mile from White Rock, which is 25 ft. above high water,
and bos also a covering rock extending 2 cuiiles to the N.W. of it.

373

HAUO SI it AIT.

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The WESTERN CHANNELS of HARO STRAIT may be uBcd with ad-
vantage by st('ann'r« or coiistors bound from the soutliorn porU of \ ancouver
InIuiuI to iho ^^Irait of (ioorgia, or to the districts of Siianich, Cowitchin,
Naiiaiino, and the nunu-rons intermediate harbours; their advantuj^jos over
ITnro Strait consist iu a U>8S strength of tide, witli sheltered anchorage in ahuost
all parts, while in the latter Rtrait the depth of water is so great that it is im-
possible to anchor, and sail'ng vessels may fretjuently be set back into Tuca
Strait, thus entailing great delay as well as risk. On the other hand, the
western channels arc not free from danger, yet, with the assistance of the chart
and a good look-out fron aloft for kelp, they may be navigated during day-
light with ease i>nd safety.

Sidney Channel. — (laving jmssed either inside or outside Zero Hock, and
intending Jo take Sidney Cluinnel, between Sidney and James Islands, which
is the best, the following directions should be observed.

The southern face of Jamrs Island is a moderately high and steep white clay
cliff, its summit <'overed with trees ; towards the eastern part of this elilf aio
two remarkable notches on '\\» summit. Steer to the N.X.W. to bring Moiint
Tuam (on the southern point of Admiral Island) over the centre between these
two notches, bearing N.W. by W., ami this mark will lead westward of tlio
3-fathoms patch off Darcy Island, and between it and the shoal of !) ft. ex-
tending south-eastward of James I.sland.

The breadth of the channel is nearly a mile, with from 11 to 20 fathoms,
until near its northern end, where a patch with 3 fathoms, marked by kelp,
lies 3 cables' lengths off the western point of Sidney Island ; this is avoided by
not shutting in the passage between Darcy and Sidney Islands, until the N.W.
end of Sidney Spit, n long stndy tongue with a few trees on its extreme, bears
North. There is good anchorage off this spit in S fathoms.

Cordova Channel, westward of James Islaiul, between it and the main
Island of Vancouver, is a fair passage with anchorage along the shore of the
main island a'.d little tide. It is not, however, to be preferred to the Sidney
Channel, as a sand-bank, with 15 ft. <>\\ it, lies in the ceutro of the southeru
entrance.

Miners Channel. — Low and Bare Islands are two small islands lying off the
eastern side of Sidney Island, and between them and the latter there is e. good
passage, three-tpiarters of a mile in breadth, with 10 fathoms least wairr. This
channel may often prove convenient for vessels having passed up Ilaro Strait
eastward of Kelp Heefs, and desiring to take the inner channels to Saanieh,
Cowitehin, or through Stuart Clianncl. Midway between liow and Bare
Islands, ond on the line between their N.\V^. points, is a reef which uncovers.
A 3-fathoriis shoal lies on each side of the southern entrance of the channel.

Having passed to the northward of Sidney Island, either by Cordova, Sidney,
or Miners Channels, the Shute or Moresby Passages may bo taken as coutc*
nienti

RHUTK AND MOllESHY PASSAOKS.

373

Shnte Passage.— To enter this passage, after leavinj; Sidney Spit, pass be-
tween Jones Island and the Little (iroiip, then eastward of Coal Island, Knapp
nnd Pyni Islands, nnd between Piers and Portland IwIandR, when Satellite
Channel will be entered, whieh leads directly to Saunich, Cowitehin, and the
western ports of Vaneouver Island. This is a j^ood, clear channe'., and with
the assistance of the chart may be used with much facility.

Jones Island lies Xorth from Sidney Spit two-thirds of a mile, with a clear
passage between. The Li/flr (7roup lie W. by N. two-thirds of a mile from
Jones Island. They consist of four rocky islets, bare of trees, and connected by
reefs. Bird IsUl, lying on the eastern side of Shutc Passage, and N.N.W.
two-thirds of a mile from the North point of Jones Island, is about 6 ft. abore
higii water.

Coal Island, whicl; helps to form the western side of Shute Passage, lies
close olf the N.E. extreme of Saanich Peninsula, and immediately at the en-
trance of Shoal Harbour. It is a mile in extent, and thickly wooded, and its
eastern and northern shores are free from danger.

A rock, which covers at quarter flood, lies W.X.W. 4 cables from the East
end of the grouji, and S.S.E. nearly two-thirds of a mile from the East point of
the island. A sniall patch, with 4 fathoms over it, and marked by kelp, lies
N.E. 1 mile from the East point of Coal Island, N.W. by N. i N. more than
three-quarters of a mile from IJird Islet, and one-third of a mile S.W. from
Yellow Islet.

Celia Rrefvwwi also be avoided. The least water found on it is 9 ft. ; it is
marked by kelp, and lies North two-thirds of a mile from the North point of
Pym Island. Knapp and Pi/m Jshimis are small and wooded, lying between
Piers and Coal Islands. Having passed westward between these islands, a
vessel is fairly in Satellite Channel.

Moresby Passage. — After leaving the northern end of Sidney Island, the
directions for Moresby Passage are the same as those already given for Shuto
Passage, until abreast the ¥a%\, point of Coal Island. From a berth about one-
third of a mile off this point, the direct course through the passage isN. by W.
for 2 miles, or until near its northern entrance, which lies between Portland
ond Moresby Islands. This space as wide, and free from danger ; it then be-
comes somewhat intricate, from Tnrnbull Reef and Canoe Hocks, which extend
oil both these islands, narrowing tiie channel at its northern entrance to little
over one-third of a mile.

Oir the eastern point of Portland Island are three rocky islets, the Sistfrs,
which extend to a distance of nearly '2 cables. They are abo-.n 25 ft high,
have a few stunted cedar trees on their summits, arc joinc.l by reefs, and will
be immediately recognised either from the northward or southward. Eastward
Trom the Sisters, at a distance of more than one-third of a mile, extends Turn-
bull Rti/, with 2 fathor-s least water on its outer edge, and marked by a heavy
bank of kelp. Cano$ liock* aro a dangerous ledge, extending \V. ^ N., nearly

874

HARO STRAIT, ETC.

half a mile from Reef Point, the N.W. point of Moresby Island ; the outer rock
of this ledge covers a little after half flood, and is not marked by kelp, though
kelp grows between the point and the rock. When both or either of these
dangers are visible, the passage is very easy.

Prevost Fasiagfe lies between Moresby Island and the group of smaller
islands to the southward of it, and leads by the Shute or Moresby Passages
into Satellite Channel. To a vessel passing up the main stream of Haro Strait,
and bound for Swanson Channel, the easiest and most direct route is between
Stuart and Moresby Islands ; but circumstances of wind or tide may render it
convenient to take Prevost Passage.

The dangers to be avoided in Prevost Passage arc the Arachne and Cooper
Reefs. Arachne Reef lies nearly in the centre of the passage, in a direct line
between Fairfax Point, the S.E. point of Moresby Island, and Tom Point, the
East point of Oooch Island. This reef covers at quarter flood, and has a
good deal of kelp on its N.W. edge, which, however, is frequently hidden by
the tide.

Cooper See/, lying half a mile N. by W. of Tom Point of Gooch Island, is
marked by kelp, and uncovers at half ebb.

Yellow Island, a small bare island S.W. by W. nearly 1 mile from Fairfax
Point, may be passed on either side. The North side is recommended ; if
passing on its South side, take care to avoid the small patch of 4 fathoms,
marked by kelp, mentioned in page 373 as lying S.W., a third of a mile
from it.

SATELLITE CHANNEL is formed by Admiral Island on the North, and
Moresby, Portland, and Piers Islands, and the northern shore of Saanitch
Peninsula on the South. It leads to Saanich Inlet, Cowitchin Harbour, and
by Sansum Narrows to Stuart Channel. It is a fair deep passage, with but
few dangers, which are not always visible ; among these are Shute Reef and
Patey Rock.

Shute Reef a a ledge less than half a cable in extent, with two rocks, one of
which dries 8 ft. at low water, its vicinity being marked by kelp. It lies W.S.W.
two-thirds of a mile from Harry Point, the North point of Piers Island, and
N. f E. nearly 3 cables from Arbutus, a small islet lying half a mile westward
of Piers Island.

Patey Rock, at the western end of Satellite Channel, is a single rock, un-
covering at half tide, with kelp round it, and is in the way of vessels working
into Saanich Inlet or Cowitchin Harbour. It bears from Hatch Point, the
westernmost point of Saanich Inlet, N.E. by N., two-thirds of a mile, from
Coal Point, a remarkable nob point, the South extreme of Deep Cove, N.W. by
W. ^ W. nearly 2 miles, and from Arbutus Island S.W. by W. i W., 3J
miles.

Cecil Rock, lying S.E. i S. ■ quarter of a mile from the S.W. point of
Russell Island at the entrance of Fulford Harbour, must also be avoided ia

SAANICn INLKT— COWITCIIIN HARBOUR.

376

working up Satellite Channel. Boatswain Bank, on the western side of the
channel, affords good anchorage in from 4 to 9 fathoms, sandy bottom. It ex-
tends three-quarters of a mile from the Vancouver shore, between Cherry and
Hatch Points.

SAANICH INLET is a deep indentation running in a nearly S.S.E. direction
for 14 miles, carrying deep water to its head, which terminates in a narrow
creek within 4 miles of Esquimalt Harbour. The inlet forms a peninsula of
the S.E. portion of Vancouver Island, about 20 miles long in a N.N. W. and
S.S.E. direction, and varying in breadth from 8 miles at its southern part to 3
miles at its northern.

On the southern coast of this peninsula are the harbours of Esquimalt and
Victoria, in the neighbourhood of which, for some 5 miles, the countiy is pretty
thickly wooded, its prevailing features lake and mountain, with, however, some
considerable tracts of clear and fertile land ; the northern portion for about 10
miles contains some of the best agricultural land in Vancouver Island. The
coast line is fringed with pine forests, but in the centre it is clear prairie
or oak land, and much of it under cultivation ; seams of coal have also been
found.

Off the eastern or peninsula side of the inlet there are some good anchorages,
the centre being for the most part deep. Immediately southward of James
Point, the north-western point of the peninsula, is Deep Cove, but no conve-
nient anchorage.

Norris Rock, awash at half tide, lies S.W. by S. 2 cables from James Point,
with 12 fathoms between it and the point. Vessels rounding this point should
give it a berth of half a mile.

COWITCHIN HARBOUR is 4 miles westward of Cape Keppel, the southern
extreme of Admiral Island ; Separation Point, the western point of entrance of
Sansum Narrows, forms its northern entrance point, and is somewhat remark-
able, being the termination of a high stony ridge dropping suddenly, and run-
ning off as a low sharp point to the southward. Cowitchin runs to the west-
ward of this point for 2^ miles, and the general depth of water in it is 30
fathoms, which shoals suddenly as the flat, which dries off for more than half
a mile from the head of the harbour, is approached. But for the large tract of
good land contained in the valley of Cowitchin, the port would scarcely be
deserving of notice, and certainly the terra of bay is more applicable to it than
that of harbour. The only convenient anchorage to be obtained is in Snug Creek,
on the North side of the harbour, or off the outer village on the South side, a
mile within the entrance.

Sansum Narrows run in a general northerly direction between Vuacouver
and Admiral Islands for a distance of 6 miles, when they lead into Stuart
Channel. Their average breadth is about half a mile, but at their narrowest
part, abreast Bold Bluff on the Admiral Island shore, 2^ miles above Separation
Point, they are contracted to a third of a mile. The high land on either sidt

876

IIARO STRAIT, ETC.

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renders the wind generally very unsteady ; it cannot be recommended except
for steamers or coasting vessels.

Entering Sansum Narrows from the southward, a kelp patch, with 9 ft. on
it, must be avoided on the Admiral Island shore. It lies 2 cables S.S.W. from
n small islet close to the coast, nearly u mile E. by N. from Separation Point,
and S.E. i S. half a mile from Entrance Point.

Another rocky patch extends nearly a cable off shore from the eastern side
of the Narrows, three-quarters of a mile north-westward of Entrance Point.
Burial Islet, a small spot used as an Indian burying-place, lies on the eastern
side of the Narrows, 1^ mile above Separation Point.

Bnrgoyne Bay. — Bold Bluff, a smooth headland of bare rock, is steep-to ;
the channel here is scarcely a third of a mile across. Burgoyne Bay, the
entrance to which is half a mile eastward of Bold Bluff, is a narrow and rather
deep indentation in Admiral Island, terminating in a sandy head. There is no
bottom in the bay under 30 fathoms, until within 2 cables of its head, when
the water uhoals suddenly from 10 to 4 fathoms. Anchorage may be had if
necessary.

Maple Bay. — From Grave Point the Narrows take a north-westerly direc-
tion, and at a distance of little more than a mile or the Vancouver Island shore
is Maple Bay. Boulder, the southern entrance point, is remarkable from a
large boulder stone standing at its low water extreme. Although an inviting
looking bay, the water is too deep for comfortable anchorage. Bird's-et/e Cove,
which runs in a southerly direction for nearly a mile from Boulder Point,
affords fair anchorage in 8 to 10 fathoms. A shoal patch, with 2 fathoms, ex-
tends nearly a cable off the West side of the cove.

STUABT CHANNEL. — Sansum Narrows extend IJ mile northward of
Maple Bay, when they lead into Stuart Channel, the westernmost of the ship
passages which wash the eastern side of Vancouver Island. The western side of
this channel is formed by the shores of that island ; its eastern by the coasts of
Admiral and Thetis Islands. It ruus in a general N.W. direction for nearly 20
miles, when it joins Dodd Nan-ows below Nanaimo. The principal dangers are
North and Escape Eeefs, White Eock. and Danger Reef.

On the western or Vancouver Island shore there are some good harbours,
viz., Osborn Bay, Horse-shoe Bay, Oyster Harbour, and Chemainos Bay; on the
eastern side there are also some anchorages, Telegraph and Precdy Harbours
on the western, and Clam Bay on the eastern side of Thetis Island.

Osborn Bay, the southernmost anchorage on the western side of Stuart
Channel, may be known by Shoal Islands, a low wooded group, connected at
low water by reefs and mud-banks, and which form the northern side of the
bay. The bay affords good anchorage, sheltered from the prevailing winds,
from the westward and S.E.

The coast north-westward of Osborn Bay, between it and Horse-shoe Bay, is

STUART CHANNEL.

377

iy,i9

shoal f(ir some distance off, deepening suddenly when half a mile from the shore,
and vessels should by no means approach it within that distance.

Horse-Shoe Bay, 4 miles north-westward of Osborn Bay, will be known by
a rather remarkable sharp point {Bare Point), bare at its extreme, which forms
its eastern entrance. There is convenient anchorage for small vessels within a
quarter of a mile of its head. Bird lieef, a rocky ledge uncovering at half tide,
extends a cable's length from the shore, north-westward of the western point
of entrance, and bears from Bare Point W. by S. half a mile.

Oyster Harbour is 4 miles W.N.W. from Ilorse-shoe Bay, the intervening
coast being free from danger ; the harbour runs in the same direction for 4
miles, is nearly a mile wide at the entrance, narrowing gradually within.
Kntering from the northward. Coffin Islet should be given a berth of 2 cables ;
there are no other dangers which are not visible. At low water the oyster beds
dry for 2 cables off the South shore. A good anchorage for a large vessel is a
mile within the ontrance.

It is high water in Oyster Harbour, on full and change, at B** 30" p.m., and
the rise is 10 ft.

Chemainos Bay is 2 J miles northward of the entrance of Oyster Harbour,
and W. by S. the same distance from Reef Point, the N.W. point of Thetis
Island. It is open, and cannot be recommended. Yellow Point, bare and
grassy at its extreme, is the North point of Chemainos Bay. From thence to
Round Island, at the southern entrance of Dodd Narrows, and bearing N.W. 5
miles, the coast is bold, and free from danger.

From the northern entrance of Sansum Narrows to North Eeef, a distance of
4 miles, there are no dangers, and both shores may be approached boldly in
working up.

North Reef is a sandstone ledge, running in a north-westerly and south-
easterly direction, as all the reefs in this channel do. It bears from the S.E.
point of Tent Island S. ^ E. half a mile, with a clear channel between of
26 fathoms. Its summit is just awash at high water, and therefore easily
avoided.

Tent Island, narr nd two-thirds of a mile long, lies off the South ex-
treme of Kuper Island, and a cable's length off its S.E. end are two remarkable
worn sandstone rocks, 8 or 10 ft. above water; the breadth of the passage be-
tween them and North Reef is one-third of a mile. Nearly 2 cables N.E. i E.
fi-om the S.E. end of Tent, is a rock which uncovers 2 ft.

Escape Reef, at 2 miles N.W. by W. i W. from North Eeef, is a dangerous
patch, nearly one-third of a mile in extent, in a W.N.W. and E.S.E. direction,
which covers at quarter flood, and has n- kelp to mark its position. It lies
nearly half a mile from the West shore of Kuper Island ; there is a deep
channel a third of a mile wide between it and Kuper Island.

Alarm Rock is scarcely in the track of vessels working up Stuart Channel.
North Pacific. 3 c

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!i|l?«|
\^M

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878

HAIIO STRAIT, ETC.

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It lies ncnrly 2 ciblos S. by W. from the S.E. point of Hudson Island, the soulh-
castcrnmost of the group of islands which lie off the western sides of Kuper
and Thetis Islands. It just covers at high water. False Rock lies N.W. by
W. J W. 4 cables from Scott Island, the north-western of the group just men-
tioned, and covers at half flood.

White Rock, about 30 yards long, and 15 ft. above high water, lies N.N.W.
1 mile from Ucef Point, the N.W. extreme of Thetis Island. This rock has a
whitish appearance, and is readily distinguished from a vessel's deck at 2 or 3
miles. It may be passed within 2 cables' lengths.

Ragged Island, a low rocky islet, with a few trees on it, lies a third of a
mile northward of the North end of Thetis Island, with a passage of 12
fathoms between them.

DANOER REEF covers a space of 3 cables almost in the centre of the
channel. A small portion of it is generally awash at high water, at which
time it is difficult to make out until within a short distance of it. White Ivock
bears from it S.E. by S., distant 1 mile ; and Tree Islet N.E. i N., two-thirds
of a mile.

In passing through Stuart Channel, there is a clear passage of 1 J mile be-
tween Danger Ucef and the Vancouver Island shore, and going either up or
down the channel. White Kock kept on with the low neck (a gap between the
two summits of Thetis Island) leads well to the westward of the reef. There
is a clear passage of three-qurirtcrs of a mile between White Hock and Danger
Reef, and of more than half a mile between the reef and Tree Island, with a
depth of over 30 fathoms.

Vesuvius Bay, on the western side of Admiral Island, immediately opposite
Osbom Bay, has deep water, but shoals suddenly at its head. It is not recom-
mended as an anchorage. There is also anchorage inside Idol Islet in Houston
Passage.

Orappler Reef, on the eastern side of Houston Passage, is a cable in extent,
and uncovers at very low water. It lies a quarter of a mile off the N. W. end
of Admiral Island, with Southey Point bearing N.N.E. half a mile; there is 5
fathoms between it and the shore of the island.

TELEGRAPH HARBOUR, on the West side of Kuper Island, is a snug
anchorage, and its entrance is between Hudson Island and Active Point, which
are half a mile apart. Entering from the southward. Escape Reef must be
avoided. If passing inside the reef, the shore of the island should be kept
aboard within a (juarter of a mile : if outside, or westward, then the Sandstone
Rocks should be kept open of the S.E. point of Tent Island, until Upright
Cliff of Kuper Island bears N.E., when a vessel will be well to the northward
of it, and may steer for the entrance of the harbour, which is free from danger,
with the exception of Alarm Reef, extending from the S.E. point of Hudson
Island.

Preedy Harbour is separated from the one just described by a group of

SWANSOX CilANXKL— ADMIRAL IST>AND.

379

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small islands and reefs ; its entrance is to the northward of them, between
Scott Island and Crescent Point of Thetis Island, and is a third of a mile in
breadth ; in entering, the Thetis Island shore should be kept aboard to avoid
False Rock, a patch which covers at half tide, nearly 4 cables W.N.W. from the
West end of Scott Island, and S.W. ^ S. half a mile from Crescent Point.

SWANSON CH&NNEL leads from Ilaro Strait to the north-westward be-
tween Admiral Island on the West and Pender Island on the East. Passing
eastward of Prevost Island, it enters Active Pass between Galiano and Mayno
Islands, thence into the Strait of Georgia ; northward of Active Pass it connects
with Trincomalie Channel.

ADMIRAL ISLAND, separating the Stuart from the Trincomalie and
Rwanson Channels, is of considerable extent, being nearly 15 miles in length
N.W. and S.E., and varying in breadth from 2 miles at its northern end to 6
miles at its southern end. It has two good ports, Fulford Harbour on its S.E.,
and Ganges Harbour on its eastern side. The southern portion of the island
(which is a peninsula formed by the indentations of Fulford Harbour and Bur-
goyne Bay, a valley separating the heads of these ports) is composed of a lofty
ridge of mountains, over 2,000 ft. in height, rising abruptly from all siues.

Immediately northward of the valley, and over Burgoyne Bay on its western
side. Mount Baynes rises to an elevation of nearly 2,000 ft., and is very remark-
able ; its southern face being a perjjcndicular precipice, visible a long distsmce
from the southward or eastward. The Otter Range, of somewhat less eleva-
tion, rises northward of Mount Baynes, from whence the island slopes away in
n wedge shape, its northern te- mination, Southey Point, being a sharp extreme.
The island is for the most part thickly wooded. Near its northern end is the
Saltspring settlement.

Fulford Harbour penetrates the S.E. side of Admiralty Island in a W.N.W.
direction for 2J miles. At its entrance is Russell Island, between which and
Isabella Point, the western point of the harbour, is the best passage in. Cecil
Rock, with 2 fathoms on it, lies S.E. i S. a quarter ol' a mile from the S.W.
point of the island. The breadth of the southern entrance is two-thirds of a
mile, with a depth of 20 fathoms until abreast North Rock, which is a small
rocky islet lying close off the North point of the harbour ; a rock, which covers
at quarter flood, lies 2 cables West of it, and more than 1^ cable from the shore,
80 that strangers entering should keep rather to the southward of mid-channel
until past it. Mount Baynes appears very remarkable from the harbour, rising
immediately over its head almost as a perpendicular cliff. The northern passage
into the harbour between Russell Island and Eleanor Point, though in places
not more than one-third of a mile in breadth, is a safe channel of 14 to 18
fathoms water. Louisa Rock, with but 1 fathom on it, is the only danger;
it lies 2 cables from the northern or Admiral Island shore.

OANOES HARBOUR is a safe and commodious port for vessels of any de-
icriptiou or size. Its southern entrance, which is in Swanson Channel, lies

■^:m

uMif^

T- ' ■ , .'J ■• '!.. >.i '.>ii

IIAnO STRAIT, ETC.

r,.

between Admiral and Provost Islands, and has no dangers which arc not
visible. In entering, Channel hlets may be passed on either side ; they are
two small wooded islands, 1^ mile within Beaver Point, and 2 cable" from the
shore of Admiral Island.

Liddell Point, the S.W. extreme of Prevost Island, and the northern en-
trance point of the harbour, has an uncovering reef extending 1^ cable cast-
ward of it. Acland Islands, two in number, lie to the westward of the point
along the shore of Prevost Island, between which and them there is no ship
channel. The fair channel into the harbour is between the Channel and
Acland Islands, the breadth between them is half a mile, the depth <'3U fathoms ;
having passed these islands the harbour is nearly l^mile wide, and the general
depth for 2 miles, 20 fathoms.

There are but few dangers in working into the harbour, and they are easily
avoided. A rocky patch with I fathom on it lies W. J N. 2 cables from the
West point of the westernmost Acland Island, and nearly the same distance
off shore. The 1 -fathom patch is more in the track of vessels; it lies with
the southernmost Channel Islet bearing E. by S. ^ S. nearly 2 miles, and
Pi'ile Point, the N.W. extreme of Prevost Island, North 2 miles, and is half a
mile from the southern or Admiral Island side of the harbour ; there is a clear
passage of half a mile south >vard of the patch in 14 fathoms. To the north-
ward of it the passage is a mile wide.

A vessel may anchor as soon as 10 or 12 fathoms is found. Chain Islands
are a group of six or seven low narrow islets connected by reefs, extending
from the head of the harbour in an E.S.E. direction for IJ mile. To the
southward of these islands the ground is clear, but to the northward of them are
scattered reefs, and a vessel is not recommended to anchor on that side within
the outermost island.

Captain Passage also leads into Ganges Harbour, to the northward of Pre-
vost I.sland. It is a clear dei^p passage, nearly half a mile wide, with depths
from 30 to 40 fathoms, and vessels from the northward intending to enter
should always use it. There is only one danger, which is well inside Ganges
Harbour, and is almost equally in the track of vessels working up by the
southern passage; it is a small patch of 2 fathoms lying 3 J cables S.W. by W.
from the western entrance point of Long Harbour.

Long Harbour may be almost considered us part of Ganges Harbour. It is
a long narrow crock, its general breadth being 2 to 3 cables, running parallel
with and eastward of the latter for 3 miles. Its entrance is between two
sloping, rocky points, similar to each other, on the North side of Captain Pas-
sage. At a quarter of a mile within the entrance is a high, bare islet, which
must be passed on its South side ; 1 mile within is another island, somewhat
similar, which may be passed in either side. At the head of the creek is a
snug place for a ship to repair, &ie., but as a harbour it is only adapted to
steamers or coasters, and, with the good and easy anchorage of Gar.ges Hur*

PRKVOST ISLAND— ACTIVE PASS.

8R1

[18

bs
pe

botir so cloHC, there would appear tu be no reason to recommend this con-
trnctcd and inconvenient one.

PBEVOST ISLAND, lying in the centre of Swanson Channel, is moderately
high, thickly wooded, and of an irregular shape. It is 3 miles long, in a
N.W. and S.E. direction, 1 J mile in breadth, «>iij on its southern and western
sides it is indented by several bays and creeks ; i^ northern side is almost a
straight cliiTy shore.

Ellen Bay, on the S.E. side of Prevost Island, between Liddell and Red
Islet Points, is three-quarters of a mile deep, by onc-Oiird in breadth, r.iid
affords fair anchorage with all but south-easterly winds in 10 fathoms, mud.
Annette and Glenthorne Creeks, on the western or Ganges Harbour side, ore
curious, narrow indentations, running into the island for a mile in an E. by S.
direction. James Bay, in the N.W. side of the island, and on the South side
of Captain Passage, offers anchorage in 10 fathoms for one or two vesscis of
moderate size with southerly winds. Hawkins Island is a small rocky islet, with
a few bushes on it, lying close off a remarkable white shell-bench on tlie N.E.
side of Prevost Island. From 2 to 3^ cables W. J N. of its north-western
point, are Charles liocks, three smooth-topped rocks, not marked by kelp, and
uncovering towards low water.

ACTIVE PASS, — From Discovery Island, in the southern entrnnec of Ilaro
Strait, to the Sand Heads of Eraser Iliver, by the Active Pass, is just 40 miles,
and the line is almost a straight one. By adopting this route, not only the
most dangerous and inconvenient part of Ilaro Strait is avoided, viz., its
northern entrance abreast o' the East point of Saturna Island and Putos
Island, where the tides are strong and apt to set a vessel down Rosnrio Strait,
or over on the eastern shore, but a distance of nearly 10 miles is saved.

After entering Swanson Channel (page 379) between Admiral and Pender
Islands, steer to the eastward of Prevost Island. From Portlock Point, the
south-eastern bluff of Prevost, the entrance of the pass bears N. by W. ^ W.
1 J mile. The southern point of entrance, Helen Point, is low, bare, and of a
yellowish colour ; over its northern side rise the high, stony hills, on the
southern side of Galiono Island. The entrance itself does not become very
apparent until it is approached within a mile. If overtaken by night, or
waiting for tide. Otter Bay, on the West side of Pender Island, is a good
tlopping-place ; it is a mile North of Mouatt Point, and 2J miles E.N.E.
of the Channel Islands in Ganges Harbour ; a very fair anchorage is to be
had in the centre of the bay, in 8 fathoms, and no dangers. Ellen Bay in
Prevost Island might also be used, but the former is preferred. There are few
dangers to be avoided in passing from Swanson Channel through the pass ; the
principal of them is the Enterprise Reef, two dangerous patches which lie off
the West side of Mayne Island.

In passing up Swanson Channel, keep Pelorus Point, the eastern extreme of
Moresby Island, open of Mouatt Point, the western extreme of Pender Islond.

..-:*

I ;

882

IIAIIO STRAIT, ETC.

These two points, just touching, lead very close on to the reef, but open
they clear it IJ cable. If coming out of Navy Channel, a vessel should keep
over for Prevost Island until these marks are open. When Helen Point bears
N. by E., the reef is cleared, and the entrance may be steered for. There is
a passage inside Enterprise Beef which may be taken when both the kelp
patches can be seen.

On vhe western side of Swanson Channel, the uncovering rock, IJ cable east-
ward of Liddell Point, must be avoided, and the points northward of it. Red
and Bright Islands, should be given a berth of a cable.

Active Pass runs in an E.N.E. direction for 1^ mile, and then turns North
for the same distance, fairly into the Strait of Georgia. The average breadth
of the channel is about one-third of a mile, and its general depth about 20
fathoms. There are no hidden dangers, but the great strength of the tides,
together with the absence of steady winds, renders it unfit for sailing vessels,
unless, indeed, small coasters ; for steamers it is an excellent channel, and a
vessel commanding a speed of 8 knots may take it at any time without
fear.*

A quarter of a mile within the southern entrance, and very close off the
northern shore, is a rock which uncovers at half tide. This is the only danger,
and cannot be said to be in the track of vessels ; in passing to the westward,
however, against the flood, a vessel should keep rather on the southern side, as
the tides set over towards this rock.

Miners Bay, on the South side of Active Pass, where it takes the sharp turn
to the northward, affords anchorage, if necessary ; but a vessel must go close
in to get 12 fathoms, and then she is barely out of the whirl of the tide. A
small rock, with only a few feet water over it, is reported by local pilots to exist
off Laura Point, the North point of the bay.

In entering or passing out of the northern entrance, the point of Gossip
Island, on the West, and also Georgia Point, on the East, should be given a
good berth; indeed, the best directions which can be given are to pass
through in mid-channel. From thence the Sand Heads of Fraser River bear
N. by W. i W., distant 11 miles. The Sand Head buoys are visible at
2 or 3 miles.

Tides. — The flood-tide in Active Pass sets from West to East, or from
Swanson Channel into the Strait of Georgia ; and the ebb, in the contrary
direction. The velocity during springs is sometimes 7 knots ; at ordinary

i! .

* H.M.S. Termagant passing through Active Posh in July, 1860, rtm on to Laura Point,
on the South side, from refusing to answer her helm in massing the turn to the northward,
the tide at the time favourabkt and running about 4 knots. U.M.S. Plumper and Alert
were ahead and astern of her at the tima The Termagant't draught was 18 ft., and she
sat 6 ft. by the stem ; an under current striking her heel was probably the cause. H.M.
steam-ahips of equal siie and greater length had passed through previously on several
..ocasions,

TiUXrOMALIK CHANNEL.

«M

tides, from 3 to !> knots. In tho northern entrance there is sometimes a heavy
tide ripple, cnuHcd by a patch of 7 and 9 fathoms, and by tho meeting of the
tide through tho pass with that in the strait.

TRINCOMALIE CHANNEL commences at Active Pass, from the southern
entrance of which its general direction is W.N.W. for 24 miles, when it enters
Dodd Narrows.

Like all the inner channels already described, this one must be classed as
essentially a channel for steamers or coasters ; it can only be used with advan-
tage by vessels bound to the eastern ports of Vancouver Island below Nanaimo,
or by such as choose to enter Nanaimo itself by that contracted pass tho Dodd
Narrows.

The eastern side of the channel is formed by the long narrow islands of
Oaliano and Valdcs, and the western by Admiral, Kuper, and Thetis Islands.
Some smaller islands are scattered over it, and there arc also several rocks
which require to be known and avoided ; nevertheless, with the assistance of
tho chart, and these directions, it is a desirable and safe channel for the class
of vessels before mentioned. The general depth of water is not inconvenient
for anchorage if necessary, as it rarely exceeds 30 fathoms, and from 12 to 18
fathoms can generally be found at a convenient distance from the shore.
Montague Harbour, on the western side of Galiano Island, is a good stopping-
place, also Clam Bay on the East side of Thetis Island.

There are two passes leading into the Strait of Georgia, viz., the Portier
and Gabriola; both are intricate and dangerous unless to those perfectly
acquainted with them, and the tides are so strong, and varying in their set,
that they cannot be said to be applicable to the general purposes of naviga-
tion, and few vessels would be justified in using them, unless in cases of
emergency.

Montague Harbour is formed between the S.W. side of Galiano Island,
and Parker Island, and its entrance, between Phillimore Point and the small
island of Julia, is IJ mile W.N.W. from the West entrance of Active Pass.
The entrance is but little over a cable in breadth, but has deep water, and is
free from danger. Immediately within the points it widens out to a quarter
of a mile, and anchorage may be obtained in 8 to 10 fathoms in the arm which
leads to tho harbour. There is a narrow passage to the north-westward from
this harbour into Trincomalie Channel.

Several smaller islands extend W.N.W. of Parker Island, viz., Sphinx,
Charles, Wise, and Twin Islands, the latter two rather remarkable rocky islets
about 30 ft. high.

Atkins Reef lies on the western side of Trincomalie Channel, one-third of
a mile from the shore of Admiral Island, and in the track of vessels working
up or down. It is a cable in extent, and covers at 4 ft. flood, its neighbour-
hood being marked by kelp, which, however, is rarely seen when there is
any ripple on the water. The reef bears from Peile Point, the N.W. end

S84

IIAllO STRAIT, KTC.

, I

of Prcvost Island W. by N. ^ N., 3J miles ; and from Twin Island S. i E.,

1 i mile.

Walker Hook is formed by a peninsula or tongue of land projecting from
Admiral Island, 4 miles westward of Captain Passage. On it« S.K. side is
fair anchorage for small vessels in C fathoms, but a shoal patch marked by
kelp lies 2 cables eastward of the S.E. point of the peninsula.

Governor Rook is a dangerous rocky patch lying almost in the centre of
Trincomalic Channel. It has 4 ft. on it at low water, is about half a cable in
extent, and though kelp grows on it, yet it is very difficult to make out until
quite close to. From Twin I.-land it bears W. i S. 1§ mile; from tiic S.K.
point of Walker Hook X.W. by N. IJ mile; and from Quadra Hill S.S.W.
This hill cannot be mistaken ; it rises from the centre of Oaliano Island to the
height of 746 ft., and a remarkable white basaltic cliff will be seen on the
coast immediately southward of it.

Walker Book lies North two-thirds of a mile from Governor Rock, and is
scarcely less dangerous, except thot it uncovers at half ebb. From Twin
Island it bears W. by N. i N. 1 J mile, from Quadra Hill S. W. by S., and is
distant two-thirds of a mile from the shore of Galiano Island.

These two rocks are the principal dangers to be avoided in Trincomalie
Channel ; they are both steep-to, and may be passed if necessary at half a
cable's length.

Direotions. — In passing up or down Trincomalie Channel, vesseln may either
take the passage southward of Governor Rock, or that between it and Walker
Rock, or northward of the latter. If taking the southern passage, after having
cleared Atkins Reef, Walker Hook, and the shore of Admiral Island, which is
bold, should be kept aboard within half a mile, until Quadra Hill bears N.E.,
when a vessel will be to the westward of both rocks, and may steer over
towards the S.E. end of Narrow Island, giving it a berth of at least a quarter
of a mile, as a reef extends off it.

If passing northward of Walker Rock when bound westward up the
channel, keep Parker and Wise Islands aboard within half a mile ; there are
no dangers off them. When abreast Twin Island, which may be passed within

2 cables, haul in to the northward until Mount Sutil, on the southern end of
Galiano Island, is well open northward of Twin, or until the mountain is on
with Charles Island. Run up with these murks on astern (which will lead
well inside Walker Rock) until Quadra Hill bears N.E. by E.

Coming down Trincomalie Channel, and desiring to pass northward of
Walker Bock, keep over on the Galiano Island shore until the N.E. point of
Thetis Island is shut in by the South point of Hall Island. As long as these
points are not opened a vessel will be northward of the rock, and when Quadra
Hill beors North, she will be well eastward of both it and Governor Rock.

HOUSTON PASSAGE leads from the Trincomalie into Stuart Channel.
Vessels intending to take it had better pass up southward, or inside Governor

i »

rORTIER PASS.

38.)

Rock. '11)0 entrnncc U between the N.H. point of Admiral Islmd and Narrow
and Secretary Islands ; thoro are no (langers.

Southty Point is the sharp northern extreme of Admiral Inland, and may bo
approached to a cable's length to the northward. At half a milo S.S.W. of it
is Orapplcr Iteef described in page <')7K ; round it Houston Passnge turns
abruptly to the soutliwnrd, ond .Stuart Channel may be entered cither by the
main passage between North Reef and Admiral Island, or if necessary, be-
tween North Heef and Tent Island. Give North Uecf a moderate berth,
OS a shoal ridge of rocks extends one-third of a mile oH" its N.W. and S.W.
ends (page .177).

FORTIER PASS separates Galiano from Yaldes Island, and is the first
outlet into the Strait of Georgia, northward of Active Pass, from which it is
distant 11 miles. The pads, though short (not exceeding a mile from its
southern entrance until fairly in the strait) is narrow, and is rendered still
more so by sunken rocks on its western side. Tho tides arc very strong,
running from 4 to 7 knots, and ovcrfulLs and whirling eddies arc always to bo
met in the northern entrance. No vessel but a steamer commanding a speed
of 8 knots is recommended to take it unless in a case of emergency. The first
danger in tho southern entr oe is Jilavk lioc/c, just awash at high water. It
is on the western side of ihc pass K.8.K. I J cablo from Native Foiut, tho
N.W. entrance point, and i easily avoided.

'fho second and principal Jange; is Virago liock, almost in the centre of tho
channel, but rather on the western side. It only uncovers at low tides, and
bi ars from Native Point E. by N. J N. 2 cables, and from Race Point, tho
centre projecting point on the East side of the pass, S.W. by W. a little over
2 cables, which is tho least breadth of the passage. The third danger is a
2-fathoms rocky patch, extending from one of the outer East points of tho
pass, bearing from Race Point N.E. by N. ^ N., a third of a mile, and from
Tongue Point, tho outer East point, W. by N. J N. 3 cables' lengths ; this
patch is covered with kelp, which is generally visible.

Directions, — At any stage of the flood stream a steam-vessel acquairi,ed with
tho channel might pass out into the Strai*^ of Georgia with facility. 'l"ho
eastern shore should always be kept aboard within a cable's length until
beyond Race Point, which should be passed close, after which a vessel with
the flood stream should make for Canoe Islet, a bare yellow rock about 20 ft.
high, N.N.W. two-thirds of a milo distant, in order to clear the 2-fathom8
patch. Canoe Islet is clear of danger on its Mcstern side, but its eastern
side should not bo approached within 3 cables' lengths.

In passing out of the channel with the ebb-tide, the gi'cat danger to bo

avoided is the violence of the stream setting against and round Race Point,

which, if a vessel have not sufficient power to stem, will either take her on

the port bow and set her on the point, or, which is still more probable, on the

North Facijic. 3 D

■•H

,W.

■r'i'

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■ 1

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886

IIARO STEAIT, ETC.

starboard, and set her on Virago Rock, as was the case on ono occasion with
II.M. stcam-vcsscl of that name.

Entering Trincomalio Channel from the Strait of Georgia by this pass, a
vesBol should keep a ^''ird of a mile eastward of Canoe Islet, and then steer for
KiiCe Point, duo allowance being made with the flood for the 2-fathoms patch ;
if with the ebb, Eacc Point should be kept close aboard to avoid being set on
Virago Rock, and having passed the point, hug the eastern shore, which is
clear of danger. The rule on all occasions should be to avoid the wcst(;rn
shore ; the great strength of the tide ceases immediately on clearing the
entrance points cither way. From the Strait of Georgia the pass is always
easily recognized at the distance of several miles, by the gop formed by its
sloping wooded entrance points, terminating in two low extremes, from most
points of view overlapping each other. Steer for tho entrance on a bearing
about S. by W.

Tides, — The flood tide runs from Trincomalio Channel to tho northward into
the Strait of Georgia, and the ebb in the contrary direction. The ebb stream
commences from 1 to Ij hour before it is high water by the shore, and for 1
liour after low water, or from 7 to 8 hours. The high water at the full and
change of the moon occurs about G p.m., but is not very regular.

CLAM BAY is on tho eastern sides of Thetis and Kuper Islands, opposite
to Portior Pass. The continuation of the bay separates these two islands at
high water, when there is a boat channel into Telegraph Harbour (p. 378), on
their western side. A remarkable white spit point of broken clam shells, seen
from a long distance, forms the southern entrance point of the bay ; imme-
diately southward of it is a considerable native lodge. Leech Island, ofi" the
noithern point, is a small wooded islet. Centre Reef, with 7 ft. on it, and
It. -kcd by kelp, lies almost iu the centre of the entrance.

The best passage into Clam Bay from the eastward is northward of Narrow,
Secretary, and Indian Islands, between them and Ilall Island. After passing
Indian Island steer in for White Spit, giving it a berth of a cable, and anchor
in 6 fathoms in the centre of the bay, the spit bearing East, and Leech
Island N.N.W.

There is fair anchorage on the western side of Valdes Island, 2 miles above
Portier Pass, immediately off a yellow cliff; 8 fathoms, sandy bottom, will bo
foimd with the cliff bearing N.W. by N. distant a quarter of a mile.

DODD NARROWS may be said to commence above Round Island (p. 377),
although tho narrowest part is a mile distant from it. To small vessels or
steamers of sufficient power to obey their helm quickly, this narrow pass offers
no dangers. The strength of the tide at its greatest rush is above 8 knots,
the least depth of water 7 fathoms, and the narrowest part of the channel is
80 yards wide ; but this is *br a short distance, and the pass being nearly
straight, a vessel is carried through in a few moments.

If bound through Dodd Narrows, and liaving to wait for tide, there is fair

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77),
Is or
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fair

anchorage with but little tide, westward of Round Island in G fathoms, midway
between it and the shore.

In procticding for Dodd Narrows from abreast Portier Pass, the mid-
channel cou is W.N.W. for about 3 miles, or until Ragged Island and '"ccf
Point of Thetis Island arc in one, bearing S.W. by S. The most direct course
is northward of Danger Eecf, between it and Tree Island ; the latter is a sinall
round wooded islet, lying off the South end of De Courcy loiands. This passage
is two-thirds of a mile wide, with a depth of 25 to 30 fathoms.

Danger lleef (p. 378) should not be approached within a cable, w' ?re there
is 9 fathoms ; if the reef should not be seen, it is recommended to pass Tree
Island at the distance of a quarter of a mile. There is deep water betw.,,n it
and De Courcy Islands.

The passage between White Eock and Danger Reef is likewise a crj- good
one; it is three-quarters of a mile wide, with n depth of 20 to 30 fathoms.

In passing up, keep on the starboard or eastern side of Eound Island at a
convenient distance ; the only directions necessary after this are to keep in
mid-channel, and to attend the steerage quickly and carefully. Immediately
through the Narrows the tide ceases, and a vessel will be in Northumberland
Channel, a fine wide passage leading to, and only 5 miles from, the anchorage
ac Nauaimo.

In taking the Narrows from the northward, be careful not to mistake the
False Narrows, which are on the port or northern side of Northumberland
Cliannel, and are much wider than the real pass, but nearly dry at low water.
Dodd Narrows are not so easy to pass from the North as from the South, as in
the former ease the slight bend that has to be made must be made immediately
on entering the narrow part. The tiden should be studied in passing cither
way. It is not recommended to attempt it with the full rush of the stream ;
an hour before or after low water there is no difficulty to a steam-vessel.

It is high water in the Narrows on full and change daj-s at 3'' 30™ p.m., and
low water at O*" 30" a.m., and on those days the flood stream commences at
low water, and runs about 7 hours. The first of the flood is the best time to
pass the Narrows. Vessels leaving Nanaime and intending to pass down,
should be at the Narrows an hour before high or low water, as the tides are
nearly an hour earlier at the Narrows.

PYLADES CHANNEL.— Z^e Covrcy Islands are a group extending {^
miles in an E.S.E. direction from Mudge Island, which separates the False
from Dodd Narrows, and on their northern side, between them and Valdes
Island, is Pylades Channel, which leads by the Gabriola Pass into the Strait
of Georgia, as well as to the entrance of False Narrows. The average breadth
of the channel is a mile, with a depth of 3.5 fathoms, and at itc head, near the
entrance to False Narrows, is good anchorage in !) fathoms, convenient for
vessels intending to take Gabriola Pass and waiting for tide.

I'alsa Narrows are full of kelp, and shoal at low water, affording only e boat

t >

«;v.-^

>,it

t{ ■il

nni

388

VANCOUVER ISLAND.

passfiyc into Northumberland Channel. The passngcs between Dc Courcy
Islands are deep and navigable ; that between the North and Middle Islands is
half a mile wide, and free from danger. The narrow pass between the Middle
and South Islands is scarcely a cable wide, but has a depth of 5 fathoms.

OABRIOIA PASS, between the South end of Gabriola Island and the
North end of A'aldes Island, is not recommended, unless for coasting a'csscIs
knowing the locality, or steamers, if necessary, for it is a narrow and intricate
channel, something of the same character as Dodd Narrows, except that it is a
much longer reach. Its direction is E.N.l'i. for little over a mile, its narrowest
part is not over 250 yards in breadth, and the shoalest water is 6 fathoms ;
half a mile E.N.E. from this narrow, the course changes to S.K. by E., leaving
a narrow ridge of low wooded islands on the starboard hand, off which a
chain of covering rocks marked by kelp extends for nearly 2 cables ; two-thirds
of a mile on this "oursc leads into the Strait of Georgia, when the Gabriola
Reefs must be avoided. These latter arc an extensive group of rocks, un-
covering at low water, at 1^ mile eastward of Flat-top Islands, and are fully
described hereafter. Much broken ground exists in their neighbourhood, and
it is desirable to give them a good berth. They arc marked by a beacon, and
a buoy was moored N.E. of Thrasher Hock a« their outer extremity.

The north-eastern side of Vancouver Island will be described hereafter, with
the description of the Strait of Georgia, &tc.

VANCOUVER ISLAND.

This extensive island has a similar relation to the Pacific Ocean to what the
south-western part of England has to the Atlantic, and in many respects their
climates resemble each other. But the physical characteristics r-f the two arc
widely different. The rugged coasts of Vancouver Island rise steeply from the
water, backed by rounded hills, covered with the monotonous pine groves,
beyond which, rmd traversing the island, a loftier range of bare rugged moun-
tains culminates in a scries of irregular peaks.

It is about 252 miles long, varying from 20 to 05 miles in breadth, and has
an area of about one-fourth of that of England and Wales. On its S.W. face
it is very deeply indented by those singular inlets so characteristic of the
adjacent mainland. There is very much land quite unfit for cidtivation or
colonization, but in some of the valleys and along a portion of the river banks
are tracts of surpassing fertility. It is estimated that the area of the island
amounts to about 10,000,000 acres, of which 389,000 acres arc arable land.

From its geographical position, exposed to the full scope of the westerly

VANCOUVER ISLAND.

380

winds which prevail over the Pacific, the mountains, intercepting the rain
clouds, furnish an ahundant and never-failing supply of water, which may
be certainly found at every valley or beach. The forests afford some of the
finest timber in the world, whether as the largest and straightcst spars for
ships or for building purposes, and a large and increasing trade is rising
around the saw-mills, which are established in various parts. At the same
time the rocky and barren shores arc covered in many places with a stunted
growth of useless wood. Of other supplies, the natives in the districts away
from the European settlements, will bring deer, grouse, salmon, halibut, rock-
cod, and other fish, in moderate quantities and for reasonable prices, in e.\-
change for blankets, common sheets, knives, tobacco, k",. Copper and iron
have been found, especially in Barclay Sound. Traces oi gold have also been
met with.

Coal is one of the most important of the possessions of Vancouver Island,
and appears to exist in vast quantities, and of excellent quality. It was first
discovered at Nanaimo, from Indian report, by Mr. Joseph McKay, in May,
1850. In September following the same seam, called Douglas seam, was dis-
covered on Newcastle Island, in Nanaimo Harbour. Its general thickness is
from 6 to 7 ft., with from 8 to 10 inches of fire-clay running through the
centre. Other and larger seams than this have since been discovered on the
adjacent coast, and still further examination has demonstrated that there is
an unbounded supply, which is now very extensively worked.

Cnpt. W. Colquhoun Grant, E.ll.G.S., its first colonist, in 1843 made an
elaborate examination of the capabilities of the island in its original un-
coloni/>ed state, and in few words his views are thus : The whole centre of the
island — as far ns it has been at present explored — may be said to be a mass of
rock and mountain, and of the little available land which is found in patches
along the sea-coast, by far the greater part is densely covered with timber,
the removal of which would be so laborious ns to make the bringing of the
said land under "ultivation scarcely a profitable imdertaking. The little open
land which there is, howe>cr, is in general rich, and had the British Govern-
ment thrown the island open to tho exertions of individual enterprise, the
greater portion of such open land would doubtless, ere this, have been settled.
It is not, however, always that the wooded land is capable of cultivation along
the sea-coast ; on the contrary, the reverse is the rule ; the greater portion of
the land on the southern, and nearly all on the western coast, as far as it has
yet been examined, consisting of barren rock, barely affording sufficient
holding groimd to the stunted timber with which it is covered.

His opinion of the climate, too, is not very cheerful. He says:— "The
climate, as usual on the coast of the Pacific, is divided into two seasons of dry
and rainy, or, as Pore Accolti, the Jesuit priest of Oregon, expressed it, ' Iluit
mois d'hiver, et quatrc d'cnfor ;' he added two months, however, to the winter
for the benefit of Oregon. On "\'ancouvcr Island it generally rains and snows

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390

VANCOUVER ISLAND.

from October to March, and during the rest of the year a parching heat pre-
vails, which dries up all the small streams. In the commencement of autumn
dense fogs prevail, enveloping everything in obscurity, and preventing, as I
think, the rays of the sun from having a due vivifying effect on tlie crops.

" Tlie prevailing winds along the coast in winter are from the S.E., varying
from that to the S.W., and with occasional heavy northerly gales ; the pre-
vailing winds in the summer are from the North and N.W. Generally speak-
ing, the climate is both agreeable and healthy ; and not a single death, that I
am aware of, has occmTcd among adults from disease during the six years that
I have been acquainted with the island."*

Dr. Rattray gives the following characteristics of the different seasons in the
South part of the island. The spring is short, and lasts from the beginning of
March to the end of April or bcgmning of May. In early March the weather
undergoes a marked change, and a drier and milder climate forms a decided
contrast to the cold and wet winter months which precede it. Towards the
end of April fine weather has fairly set in, with mild dry S.W. winds.

The summer begins with May and ends with September. Ilain falls seldom,
and never heavily ; fogs and mis u? arc rare ; sometimes the heat is excessive.
The autumn, which lasts during October and November, presents a marked
change. Cold and moist northerly winds succeed the dry southerly breezes of
summer. Fogs begin in October, and occasionally during the latter part of
September ; but periods of fine mild weather, sometimes lasting ten days or a
fortnight, form what is called the " Indian summer."

During the winter, which lasts from the beginning of December to the end
of February, cold moist northerly and southerly winds prevail, with frequent
rain and fogs. Snow is uncommon and never heavy ; ice is seldom more than
an inch thick.

The following remarks are from the Vancouver Island Pilot : —

Currents, — A southerly current has been found to prevail on the western
coast of Vancouver Island more or less throughout the year, particularly froni
August to November, probably in some measure caused by the N.W. winds
which blow constantly during the summer. T'jIs current, joining the ebb tide
out of Fuca Strait, has been known to set vcss* is between 4 and 5 miles an hour
to the southward, and during fogs there is great risk of being drifted on to
Cape Flattery, or some of its off-lying dangers; extreme caution should, thcrcr
fore, be observed in entering the strait at such times, especially near the full
and change of the moon, when the tides are at their strongest.

Winds. — During summer, the prevailing winds from N.W. or S.W. take a
westerly direction within the Strait of Juan de Fuca ; while the S.E. gales of
winter blow fairly out.

Although a westerly wind may be blowing within the strait, it frequently,

• Seo Journal of the Ilojul Gcograpliical Socitity, vol. xxvii, pp. 208— a20.

VANCOUVER ISLAND.

891

during the change of the seasons, blows heavily outside at the same time from
S.S.W., or sometimes suddenly changes to that direction, from a slight easterly
wind on opening the entrance, which makes that pai't of the coast of Vancouver
Island between Fort San Juan and Bouilla Point a dangerous Ice shore to a
ship without steam iiower.

The coast winds in summer prevail from S.W. and N.W., the former during
the early months, and the latter blow fresh and with great regularity during
June, July, and August. In September and the early part of October the
winds are very uncertain, and there is generally a great deal of calm, gloomy
weather.

The barometer usually stands above 30.00 inches during summer; should it
fall to 29.90 a south-easterly wind, with thick rainy weather, may be expected,
but of short duration, and clearing up with a westerly wind as soon as the baro-
meter rises.

The winter winds are S.E. or S.W., more frequently the former. They set
in towards the end of October, and continue until the middle of April. S.K.
gales arc generally preceded by a short interval of calm, cloudy weather ; they
spring up gradually from East or E.S.E., veering to the southward, accompa-
nied by rain and thick weather, the barometer falluig rapidly ; when the baro-
meter becomes stationary, the wind shifts suddenly to S.W., and blows heavily
with clear weather, but fieipicnt squalls of rain. The barometer begins to
rise immediately the wind veers to S.W., from which quarter it generally blows
from 12 to 20 hours.

The violence and duration of these S.E. gales is always proportioned to the
fall of the mercury ; with the barometer at 29.50 a strong gale may be looked
for from this quarter. It seldom falls below 29.20, when very bad weather is
certain to follow. On two or three occasions, in as many years, it has been
known to fall to 28.90, and has been followed by S.E. gales of great violence.

A S.E. gale sometimes springs up, though very seldom, with the barometer
above 30.00 inches. On such occaMous the wind has alwav:: Lul-u preceded by
calm, cloudy weather and rain, with a high but fulling bai-ometcr ; such gales
are not violent, and are of short duration.

S.E. gales are always accompanied by thick d'.ty weather, and rain; they
seldom continue from that quarter for more than 12 or 18 houx'S, unless the
barometer fulls very low, and ahnct always shift to S.W.

"When the S.W. gale of winter is not preceded hy the south-eastern, the
barometer seldom falls ; it cither remains stationary, when the gale may bo
expected tc continue longer, or rises slowly, when it will gradually subside and
fine weat.er ioUow. S.W. gales arc accompanied by heavy banks of clouds,
and passing showers of rain, sometimes snow.

The barometer has been known to full during winter as low as 29.45, and
has bern followed by no gale or bad weather, but on such occasions there has

.

'i ^

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892

VANCOUVER ISLAND.

been n heavy full of snow on the hills, and a sudden fall of 16 degrees in the
temperature.

A fine northerly or N.B. wind frequently occurs at intervals during the
months of December, January, and February ; it is always accompanied by a
high barometer, above 30.0, and at such times a continuance for several days
together of clear, cold, frosty weather may be looked for. The barometer on
these occasions will sometimes rise as high as 30.70, and the fine weather will
probably last a fortnight or more.

Fogs. — Although fogs in this region are not nearly of such frequent occur-
rence as on the neighbouring coast of California, where they prevail almost un-
interruptedly during summer and as late as the middle of October, yet from
August to November they occasionally occur in Juan do Fuea Strait, and are
sometimes very dense over the entrance for several days together. They are
generally accompanied by calms or very light winds from N.W., which renders
them more dangerous to sailing vessels closing the land.

The natives have been frequently described since the visit of Cupt. Cook to
Nootka Sound first made us intimate with them ; but they are disappearing
fast. The West coast of tho island is very thinly populated, the highest esti-
mate of the natives not exceeding 4,000, divided into a number of very small
tribes. As a rule they arc harmless and inoilensive, though in a very few cases
the crews of vessels wrecked on their coasts have been plundered and ill-treated.
They are addicted to pilfering, especially in the vicinity of Nootka Sound, and
ought to be carefully watched ; this is, perhaps, the worst charge that can bo
brought against them.

All the tribes speak a difTercut dialect, and the Chinook jargon, which is
used at Victoria in transactions with the settlers and natives, will not be gene-
rally understood on the West coast.

The island now forms an integral part of the province of British Columbia,
as explained on page 350, the seat of government for the island and continent
being at Victoria.

Its S.W. coast was but very little known till the publication of the fine
series of charts, the result of the elaborate survey by Capt. G. II. Richards,
ll.N., in H.M.S. Plumper. To these charts, and the directions which elucidate
them, we owe the following description, which is somewhat abridged, as, for
the present at least, many of the places it describes are but of little interest to
'' general navigator.

The present chapter will include a description of the south-eastern and south-
wci-t /n coasts of the island, leaving that portion on the Gulf of Georgia, &c.,
to be given in the next chapter.

JUAN DE FUCA STRAIT lias been before described, pages 321— 331, with
the harbours and coast on the South side, the northern limit of Washington
Territory. We now commence with the northern side of the strait, continuing

for
btto

PORT SAN JUAN.

393

the description from the N.W. point of the entrance to its junction with Ilnro
Strait.

FORT SAN JUAN is the first nnchorngo on the North shore within the
entrance of Fuca Strait. The opening, which is remarkable from seaward, is
seen for a considerable distance, and makes as a deep gap between two moun-
tain ranges. The centre of the entrance bears N.]']. by N. J N. from Capo
Flattery lightliouse, and as the light is visible from the anchorage it is not
difficult to enter or leave during night time. The entrance points lie E. ^ N.
and W. i S. of each otiier, nearly IJ mile apart. The port runs nearly straight
for 3J miles in a N.E. by N. direction, and carries a breadth of 1 J mile almost
to the head, which terminates iu a round beach composed of muddy sand.
Gordon Itiver empties itself through the North end of this beach, and Cooper
Inlet penetrates its southern end ; small vessels can enter these at high water.

Off Owen Point, the western point, at something more than a cable's length,
is a low flat rock, named Owen Island, awash at high water. Observatory Rocks,
at the eastern point, are high pinnacles, with two or three trees growing on
them, and some smaller rocks off, the outermost of which lies 1^^ cable from tlie
shore. At 4 cables within these rocks, and IJ cable from the shore, is another
reef, partly out of water, named Hammond Rocks. On the North side of the
port some rocks and broken ground extend for a mile within Owen Point, and
nearly 2 cables from the shore. The outermost rock, awash, lies N.E. I E.
from Owen Island, distant 4 cables, and is 2^ cables from tlie shore.

The port is entirely open to S.W. winds, during which a heavy sea rolls in
if blowing a moderate gale, but there is a convenient depth of water all over
it, from G to 9 fathoms, the bottom fine muddy sand. In the outer part of the
port there is generally a swell. Good anchorage will be found about \\ mile
from the head, with Owen Island bearing S.W., and Adze Head E.S.E., iu 7
fathoms, with all winds from the land. It is not considered advisable to re-
main here when there is any sign of the wind shifting to the south-westward ;
vessels should then seek shelter in Neeah Bay, or run farther up the strait.

The hill named Pandora Peak, on the N.W. side of the port, does not show
as a peak within the port.

The Coast. — From Port San Juan the shore of Vancouver Island trends East
to Shcrringliam Point, distant 24 miles, and presents no very remarkable
features. Providence Cove, fit for bouts, lies 3 miles eastward of San Juan ; and
at 7 miles farther East, in a small bight, is a stream named Somhrio River,
The River Jordan, a considerable stream, is 5i miles westward of Sherringhara
Point. Eastward of Sherringhara Point the shore curves a little to the north-
ward, and at the distance of 4 J miles E. i N. is Otter Point. The points on
this side the strait are not remarkable nor easily distinguished unless close in-
shore ; some of their extremes are partially bare of trees. Vessels running or
working up the strait at night should be careful not to get so near the North
North Pacifio. 3 e

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894

VANCOUVER ISLAND.

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shore as to shut in Race Island light by Beeohey Ilcnd. From Otter Point the
entrance to Sooko lulot is E. by N. i N. 3f miles, the intervening coast form-
ing rather a deep indentation named Sooke Bay, in which vessels may anchor
in fine weather something more than half a mile from the shore in 8 fathoms.

SOOKE INLET is a remarkable sheet of water; its entrance is little over
half a mile in breadth, and leads by a narrow and tortuous channel 3 miles in
length, and in a general North direction, to a beautiful landlocked basin,
nearly 2 miles in extent, in an East and West direction, and 1 mile North nnd
South, with a depth of from 8 to 16 fathoms all over it. It is not likely, how-
ever, to become a harbour of much importance. The houses of settlers hero
begin to appear near the coast.

Vessels may anchor in 10 fathoms half a mile off the entrance, and, if neces-
sary for shelter, may with a fair wind run inside Whiffin Island, where there
is sufficient space to anchor. From the depth of 10 fathoms Mount Mnffw're,
on the eastern side of the inlet, bears about N.E. ; it is partly covered with
trees.

Whiffin Island is low, gravelly, and always connected with the western
shore of the entrance. Its easteni point bears N.N.E. three-quarters of a mile
from the centre of the entrance ; it must be rounded close, leaving it on the
port hand, as a reef lies only half a cable eastward of it. On rounding the
point drop the anchor at a cable's length within in 8 liUhoms ; here there is a
space of deep water 2 cables in extent.

Secretary Island, small and wooded, lies IJ cable off Possession Point, a
mile south-eastward of Sooke Inlet. There is a depth of 16 fathoms between
it and the main shore, and from it Bcechey Head bears E. J S. 2J miles, with
a bold steep shore between, and deep water elosc-to.

BECHEB BAY.— Beechey Head is a bold wooded cliff, forming the West
entrance point of Becher Bay, Cape Church, to E. by N. J N., being the eastern
one. Three rocky islets lie off the latter. The breadth of the entrance is 2 J
miles, and off the eastern side are several small wooded islands, named Bedford
Islands. The depth of water at the entrance varies from 20 to 50 fathoms,
rocky and irregular bottom. At three-quarters of a mile within, in a northerly
direction, are Wolf and Frazer Islands, with some small islets off them ; be-
tween these two islands, which lie East and West of each other, Frazer Island
being on the eastern side, is the channel 4 cables wide to the anchorage ; it
then takes a north-easterly direction for three-quarters of a mile, where an-
chorage in 10 fathoms may be had, with the centre of Frazer Island bearing
S.S.W., distant a quarter of a mile.

Becher Bay cannot be recommended as a good anchorage; it affords no
great shelter with southerly or westerly winds, and vessels outward bound had
far better wait a fair wind in Parry Bay to the northward of Race Islands. The
currents have very great strength aroimd Beechey Head. Vessels bound up
the strait should pass the land about Bcechey Head at the distance of 2 miles,

RACE ISLANDS— RACE PASSAGI-:.

395

if intending to po outside Roco Islonds. Steamers intending to take the Race
Passage may pass Cape Chviveh about lialf a mile distant, and keep the land
aboard about that distance until up witb Uentinck Island, when the latter
should be closed and kept within a quarter of a mile or just outside the kelp.
The passage between Ucntinek Island and the Vancouver shore is choked with
rocks, and strong tides run both inside and outside.

B.ACE ISLANDS arc a cluster of low bare rocks, the outermost of which
lies a mile S.E. of Uentinck Island at the S.E. point of Vancouver Island, and
5 miles E. by N. from Reechcy Head. They occupy more than half a mile in
extent. North and South, and the same East and West. The outermost and
largest, or Great Race, is IJ cable in extent, and 25 ft. high; the others arc
smaller, a few feet above high water or awash. The tides among them run
from 3 to 6 knots, and during bad weather heavy and dangerous races occur.
The outer rock should be given a berth of a mile, at which distance from 40 to
60 fathoms of water will be found ; it may, however, if necessary, be rounded
at a less distance, the most ofF-lying danger being Rosedale Hock, with 5 ft. on
it, lying S.E. by E. from Great Race, distant 4 cables. In light winds a sail-
ing vessel should give these islands a good berth, especially when eastward of
them, as the ebb sets strongly towards them.

Race Island Lighthouse, on Great Race Rock, consists of a keeper's dwell-
ing of stone, with a tower of the same material, 105 ft. high, the latter being
painted with alternate horizontal black and white bands. It exhibits, at an
elevation of 118 ft. above high water, ti fashing hriyht light, which shows a
flash every ten seconds, visible in clear weather at a distance of 18 miles. Lat.
48" 17' 45" N., long. 123° 32' 15" W.

In foggy weather a steam Whistle, a short distance S.E. of the lighthouse,
sounds a blast of 5 seconds at intervals of 72 seconds.

Race Passage is a clear channel, 4 cables in breadth, between Race Rocks
and Bentinck Island, with a depth of not less than 14 fathoms. This passage
may be taken by a steamer ; but it is not recommended for a sailing vessel
under ordinary circumstances, on account of the strength of the tides, and
races caused by the irregular rocky nature of the bottom. The course through
is N.N.E. and S.S.W.

After rounding Race Island lighthouse at the distance of a mile, the course
for Esquimau Harbour is N. ^ W., 8 J miles. The lighthouse on Fisgard
Island is very conspicuous, and will be seen immediately on rounding Race
Islands ; a course direct for it will clear all dangers, but attention must be paid
to the set of the tides. The ebb runs almost directly from the Ilaro and
neighbouring straits towards Race Islands, and a sailing vessel, unless with a
commanding wind, should give them a berth of more than a mile. The flood
sets in the opposite direction to the N.E., and with light winds vessels are liable
to be carried to the eastward.

By night, when Fisgard Island light bears N. by W., a vessel may steer

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89n

VANCOUVER ISLAND.

boldl}' for it. llio only precaution necessary is to keep the bright light in full
view.

'i ho eatrancc of Victoria Harbour being only 2 miles eastward of Esquimalt,
the same precautions aro necessary as regards the tides. The course from a
mile off Bace Islands is N. ^ E. ; during daytime Christ Church, a conspicuous
white building with a spire, and standing on an eminence, will be seen shortly
after rounding these islands, bearing N. by E. It should be kept just on the
starboard bow. At night, or during bad weather, it is strongly iccomniended
not to run for this harbour ; but if it is decided to run for Victoria, it must bn
borne in mind that when Fisgard Island light changes from bright to red, a
vessel will be very neor the shore.

Bentinok Island, lying close off the S.E. point of Vancouver Island, is little
over half a mile in extent, irregularly shaped, and lOO ft. high, being almost
divided in the centre by a narrow neck. The narrow channel between the
island and the shore is obstructed by numerous rocks.

Between Bcntiuck Island and Esquimalt Harbour, a distance of 8 miles, iho
coast is indented by several bays, and anchorage may be obtained in 8 to 10
fathoms anywhere within a mile of the shore, except immediately off Albert
Head. The only danger is a reef lying about a cable's length off the head.

Pedder Bay, the first of these indentations, has its entrance immediately
northward of Bcntinck Island, 2 miles N.N.W. of the Great Encc, between Capo
Calver and William IIea<l, where its breadth is three-quarters of a mile. The
inlet runs to the W.N.W. for 2 miles, narrowing rapidly, and when half a mile
within is only fit for small craft, which may find good shelter at its head.
Vessels of any size may anchor in the entrance in 7 fathoms, with winds from
the southward and westward.

Parry Bay, immediately northward of William Head, affords good anchor-
age with all westerly winds. Vessels bound to sea, and meeting with a strong
wind from this quarter arc recommended to i-eturn here ; the anchorage is in
fathoms, from half to three-quarters of a mile off the sandy beach, with
William Head bearing S.W. by S. about the same distance. With a south-
easterly wind there is ample room to get under way.

Albert Head, the North point of the bay, is moderately high, sloping to the
sea, bare of trees at its extreme, but wooded immediately behind ; a reef lies a
cable off it. William Head somewhat resembles it, but is lower. The water
is too deep for anchorage immediately off these heads.

BOYAL BAT or ROADS, of which Albert Head is the southern point, and
the entrance of Esquimalt Harbour the northern limit, is a fine sheet of water
8 miles in extent, and affords good anchorage with all winds which would pre-
vent a vessel from entering that harbour. A vessel may anchor anywhere
within three-quarters of a mile from the western shore, in 10 to 12 fathoms.
A good berth is a mile South of Duntze Head with the entrance open, or the
beacon on Dyke Point, near the site of Thetis cottage, just open of Inskip

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897

Rocks (in the haibour), which is the leading mark for clearing Scrogga Rocks
running in or out.

LIOHT. — A lighthouo-c is erected on tho summit of Ftsgard Island, a small
rocky islet 25 ft. high, and almost connected with the shore, forming the
Western entrance point of Esquimalt Harhour ; tho tower is of hrick, white-
washed, and 57 ft. high, with a red brick dwelling-house adjoining. The light
is fixed, elevated 70 ft., and visible 10 miles, and show*- br'njht when bearing
between N. i W. and N.W. by W. \ W. ; red between N.W. by W. \ W. and
S. J E. ; and bright between S. i E. and S.E. J E. The bright light is in-
tended to guide a vessel in from seaward, and, while visible, clears alike the
western coast between Eace Island and Esquimalt, and the southern shore,
with its off-lying dangers, Scroggs Eocks and T3rotchy Ledge, between Duntze
Head and Trial Island. The red light will be found useful by vessels bound to
Victoria or Esquimalt from the eastward ; after rounding Trial Island it will
indicate a vessel's distance from the shore, and if bound to Esquimalt, u
W.S.W. course will lead a safe distance outside Brotohy Ledge, until the light
changes from red to bright, when it may be steered for, and not before.

ESQUIMALT HARBOUE is a safe and excellent anchorage for ships of any
size, and with the aid of the light on Fisgard Island may be entered at all times
with great facility. These advantages caused it to be selected as a naval station
by the Admiralty. The entrance, which bears Nortli 8i miles from the light-
house on Great Race Island, is between Fisgard Island and Dvmtze Head, and
is 3 cables in breadth, opening out immediately within.

The only dangers are Scroggs Rocks, which lie on ihc eastern side, S.S.E. 3
cables from Duntze Head, and cover at three-quarters flood. Inskip Islands
kept well open of the head leads clear to tlie westward of them, but the best
mark for entering with a leading wind is a pyramidal white beacon on Dyko
Point, 23 ft. high above high water, just open or on with the western Inskip
Eock, bearing N. by W. J W., which leads in mid-channel. 'J'hctis Cottage,
which formerly stood on Dyke I'oint, and was used as a leading mark, was
destroyed by heavy falls of snow in 1879-80, and tho ruins have been re-
moved.

Fisgard Island should not be passed within less than a cable's length, keep-
ing just without the kelp, which extends about half a cable eastward of it,
for a rock, M'ith 7 ft. water over it, lies three-quarters of a cable N.E. of tho
lighthouse.

Entering Esquimalt Harbour, Fisgard island light should be left from 1 to 2
cables on the port hand ; when it bears N.W. by W. J W., the light changes
from bright to red, and shows the latter colour within the harbour ; and when
it bears S. by W. at n convenient distance, a vessel may anchor in 7 fathoms,
or stand into Constance Cove if preferred. Scroggs Rocks, on the eastern side
of the entrance of the harbour, must be avoided; they bear E.iS.E. from ¥ia*
gard Island, distant nearlj 4 cables.

lU'i •

398

VANCOUVER ISLAND.

Vessels entering the harbour at night with a strong winil after them, should
take care to shorten sail in time, as the space for rounding-to is somewhat
limited ; and it is desirable to moor if any stay is intended, as the winds are
changeable.

The best time to leave the harbour is early in the morning, when cither a
calm or light land wind may be expected. There is little strength of tide in
the harbour, or for some distance without, and it sets fairly in and out.

The strongest and most frequent gales blow from S.W. and S.E., which arc
leading winds in, but rarely from N.W. The S.W. is a summer wind, gene-
rally fresh, and brings fine weather, unless it blows a gale. South-east winds
may be looked for during the winter months, or between November and March,
and generally a strong gale once in a month, with rain and thick weather.
The N.E. wind rarely blows with much strength, and always brings fine clear
M'catlipr ; a direct South Avind, to which some parts of the liarbour arc open,
seldom blows, and there is Jiever sufficient swell to render the anchorage in-
convenient.

Whale Rock, with only 7 ft. on it at low water, lies W. i N., 2 cables from
Inskip Islands, or nearly midway between them and the western shore of tlic
harbour. This rock is of small extent, and not marked by kelp ; it has a clear
passage on cither side, that to the eastward being the widest. Yew and Ilodd
Points, just touching, point to the rock ; Yew Point, just touching the liglit-
hoase on Fisgard Island, S. by E. 2 E., leads nearly a cable's length westward ;
and when Ashe Head is well shut in by Inskip Islands, a vessel will be clear to
the northward.

Anchorage. — The most convenient anchorage is in Constance Cove, on the
eastern side of the harbour, immediately round Duntze Head, the general depth
being 6 fathoms, and the holding ground good ; there is, however, safe anchor-
age in any part of the harbour, in not less than 4^ futlionis, as far northward
as Dyke Point. A cable's length above this point the water shoals to 3 fathoms,
and from thence to the head of the harbour is a flat with only a few feet on it
at low water.

The town of Esquimalt is situated on the southern side of Constance Cove,
and on t^.' i >' 'ernside of the cove is the Naval Hospital. There is a dry
dof ..;■•' y completed, 400 feet long, with an entrance 90 feet wide,

having vater over the sill. Esquimalt is the proposed terminus oftho

railway to Nanaimo, which, on the completion of the trans-continental Cana-
dian Pacific Hallway, will probably very greatly increase the importance of this
harbour.

Thetis Cove in Plumper Lny, on the eastern side, immediately North of
Constance Cove, is a snug anchorage, with the harbour entrance just shut in
by Inskip Eocks, in 4 J fathoms ; but vessels proceeding above these rocks must
take care to avoid Whale Rock.

Water may be obtained during the winter months without difficulty from

VICTOEIA HARBOUR.

399

the many streams that empty themselves into the different bays, caused by the
great quantity of rain which usually falls at that season ; but in summer water-
ing is a tedious process, and boats must be sent either to Rowc stream, at the
head of the harbour, or to the salt lagoon just outside the entrance. Both ofifer
difficulties, unless at or near high water.

Water, however, might be conveyed, at n trifling expense, from the chain of
lakes just over the western side of the harbour, near Colwood Farm.

VICTORIA HARBOUR is a little more than 2 miles eastward of Esquimalt,
with its entrance between Ogden and MacLaughlin I'oints. Macaulay or
Sailor Point, a remarkable projectior. nearly midway between the two harbours,
is a bare flat point, about 30 ft. high, showing as a yellow clay cliff", worn by
the action of the sea and weather iito a rounded nob at the extreme. The coast
on either side of this point for a nrilc is fringed with sunken rocks, and is dan-
gerous for boats in bad weather, many fatal accidents having occurred.

The entrance to this harbour is shoal, narrow, and intricate, and with S.W.
0. '^ ii) gales a heavy rolling swell sets on the coast, which renders the anchor-
':l<- . Me unsafe, while vessels of burthen cannot run in for shelter unless at
or nvi:r high water. Vessels drawing 14 or 15 ft. water may, under ordinaiy
circumstances, enter at such times of tide, and ships drawing 18 ft. have en-
tered, though only at the top of spring tides.

The channel is buoyed, but it is necessary to take a pilot, and the space is so
confined and tortuous that a long ship has considerable difficulty in making the
necessary turn. A large per-centage of vessels entering the port, small as well
as large, constantly run aground from these causes, or from trying to enter at
an improper time of tide, or neglecting to take a pilot. Such accidents, how-
ever, arc seldom attended with more than delay and inconvenience, as the
shoalest and most intricate part of the passage is sheltered. When within, the
port is perfectly landlocked, and vessels may lie in from 14 to 18 ft. at low
water, but the I'n.'oour accommodation is limited.

Black buoyfr rt..>
northern m'. : '.rh'
from Sho^il 'oii". .r
ore of pyramidal -' •

Light.— On B(ro>

i,. ilio southern side of the entrance, and red buoys the
r.r ys marking the northern edge of the shoal extending
'.< 'Jhannel Eock (lying half a cable S.W. of Pclly Island),
iic, surmounted by a ball.

' tand, on the West side of the entrance to the harbour,

is a white tower, 30 ft. high, from which is shown a Jixed blue light, elevated
44 ft. above high v. iter, and visible G miles.

VICTORIA, th' capital of Vancouver Island and British Columbia, is beau-
tifulh' situated jn the ssouthern and eastern sides of Victoria Harbour, havin"*
a population *-ariously estimated at between 6,000 and 8,000. A good road
connects it v'th Esquimalt, 3^ miles distant. It is the centre of a considerable
foreign au' <. asting trade, which will probably greatly increase on the com-
pletit)u oi' t' ';Q s-ccntlncntul Canadian I'acific Railway. A line is also pro-
jected to vuu . I the Eu.jt side of the island from Esquimalt to Nanaimo, &c.,

, ■'"^■re 13 a depth of I4 to Ifi ft 7 ' "''^''^ Columbia Ci.m/ 7 ^
-ty. alongside wWeh vol I 1 ' T ''^ ""*"• "^ ^^o wh„r;s i" f ' °-
^'»'I^our is a small «)• ^^ ^''^''° ^^ovvn. On th. ''°"* ''^ t^e

- ''o p^oour; e;^'^;;:::^^^ -ds up to'i :„rs'^ r'^ °^ ^'^^

«o«ti„g tank to vosselL,° ^"''''^' "'^^ ^«ter ea„ t '"'^"f. P'^'^'-'ons

- "ISO bo unC:;^t;r r '° ^^-'^'''- -- 1 ::::r f -"^'^^

Anchorage-Vessels ancho ''"'''"' ""^ ^^'^'^P- ' ' *"""

^vith offLsho,^ . "1"° ir ',er. This is „ „„ , * ' ""'^"'"y

-«y bo look^^:^ "^^--^^ '-'^'^ ^'- wLe:,r: r":r ' ^^ «

'J'Jiero arc three or f m '™'"'"- ''"'' '^''"'^"^

f„ : '^'"^ '^'^ ^o"'- pilots att...r.l,n,j .„ .,

--bleinextc.. M ''""''•^'P'^'t^it

No,.,l. of i,. '''■■ ^«'«". "-i ttae „.,„„,„,„, Jr "l™ « vessel „.„, i„
I'« COAST r™ y,„,„„, ,. ^ "'"'"P'-o.u™,,,^,^

■"il« ,„ Clover P„i,„, autrfc Th """'' '" '"' «"y diree.' ,

' I

TRIAL ISLANDS— GONZALES POINT.

401

liiacon Hill, <i gentle rise of the land, 2 cables from the water's edge, and
n mile East of the harbour, is grassy and bare of trees ; its height is 140 ft.,
and there is a staff or beacon on the summit. Here there is a race course.
Clover Point, at 2 miles eastward of the entrance to Victoria Harbour, is low,
bare of trees, and projecting; it is steep-to, and off it are some strong tide-rips,
dangerous to boats in heavy weather, lioss Buy, to the eastward of it, is open,
but sometimes used by small craft if waiting for the tide, there being from 4
to 5 fathoms at 2 cables distance offshore. Foul Bay, nearly a mile N.E. of
Clover Point, is of small extent, and filled with rocks. Off its entrance arc
Templar Rocks, about 4 ft. under water, and marked by kelp. At the back of
Foul Point, the eastern point, is Gonzales Hill, 2'!0 ft. high.

Trial Islands, nearly IJ mile eastward from Clover Point, on the South
side of Enterprise Channel, are two in number, bare and rocky, but generally
appear as one. The southern and largest is 80 ft. high. Strong tide ripples
prevail off the southern island, especially during the flood, which runs nearly
6 knots at springs just outside it.

Enterprize Channel, between Trial Islands and the Vancouver shore, is a
narrow, tortuous, but deep channel, much used by steamers and coasters
trading to Victoria Harbour, as a slight saving of distance is effected, and less
tide experienced than by going South of Trial Islands. Its length is about a
niile, with 4 fathoms least water. McNeil Boy, on the North side of the
channel eastward of Foul Point, is upwards of 3 cables in extent, with from 2
to G fathoms water. It is open to the southward, and is used by small vessels
waiting for the tide. Mouatt Reef, in the eastern part of the channel, 3 cables
from Trial Island, and nearly 2 cables off shore, is about a cable in e.\tent, and
covers at a quarter flood. This rock is dangerous for vessels using Enterprize
Channel, as it lies just North of the fairway.

Brodie Reef, with 3 fathoms least water, lies nearly a mile N.E. \ N. from
the summit of Trial Island, and should be carefully avoided by vessels using
Enterprize or Mayor Channels.

GONZALES POINT, forming the S.E. extremity of Vancouver Island, is
a low salient point, rocky, bare of trees, faid sicep-to on the East side. From
hence to Cadboro Hay the shore is low, with dwarf oak and pine trees.

Oak Bay. — From Gonzales Point the Vancouver shore trends to the north-
ward, and at a mile from the point forms a sandy bay, which is somewhat less
than a mile in extent, and affords fair anchorage near its North part in from
3 to 4 fathoms. The best anchorage is northward of Mary Todd Islet, lying in
the South part of the bay.

CADBOBO BAY, 2i miles to the northward of Gonzales Point, is about
half a mile in extent, and open to the S.E. ; no sea, however, rises within it,
and there is good anchorage in from 3 to 4 fatlioms near the entrance.

Mayor Channel, to the northward of Gonzales Point, and \\\.st of Chain

North Racijic.

3 t

■ 1 » • ' \

■ v;* i

■: I

.l<;

I I

i !

402

VANCOUVER ISLAND.

Islets, is about 2 miles long in a winding direction to the northward ; its
breadth in the narrowest part is 3 cables, and tlie soundings in it vary from 9
to 13 fathoms. The channel is bounded on the West side by Thames Shoal
and Fiddle Reef, and abreast the latter on its opposite side lies Lewis Reef.
The tide seldom runs more than 3 knots through this channel, and it is the ono
generally used. Thames Shoal, of 2 fathoms water, is of small extent, and
marked by kelj) ; it lies nearly half a mile N. by E. from Gonzales Point, at
the S.W. part of Mayor Channel. Channel Point in line with the West side
of Great Chain Islet, N. by E. J E., leads a cable East of this shoal, and the
highest part of Trial Island in line with Gonzales Point, S. f W., Ictas half a
cable West of it.

Lee Rock, which only uncovers at lew water springs, lies IJ cable west-
ward of Thames Shoal. It is marked by kelp, and is steep-to on the East side.
Rctwecn this rock and Thames Shoal is Mouatt Channel, a cable wide, with
from 7 to 9 fathoms. The highest part of Trial Island in line with Gonzales
Point, S. 2 W., leads midway between Thames Shoal and Lee Rock, and also
through the fairway of the North part of Mayor Channel, between Fiddle and
Lewis Reefs.

Fiddle Reef, at the N.W. extreme of Mayor Channel, and upwards of a
mile fro)u Gonzales Point, is of small extent, and awash at high water spring
tides. It may be approached close-to on the East side.

Todd Rock, at 2 cables West of Fiddle Reef, in the entrance to Oak Bay,
covers at two-thirds flood, and is marked by kelp.

Lewis Reef, at the N.E. part of Mayor Channel, nearly 3 cables S.E. of
Fiddle Reef, and 2 cables West of Chain Islets, covers at high water, and may
be approached close-to on the West side. The passage between it and Chain
Islets is filled with kelp, but has not less ;,"aan 2 fathoms.

CHAIN ISLETS, midway between Discovery Island and the Vancouver
shore, are a bare rocky group, three-quarters of a mile long in a westerly
direction, and half a mile wide. Spencer Ledge, off their East side, at a dis-
tance of 2 cables from the easternmost high-water rock, is marked by kelp, and
has 9 ft. on its shoalest part ; if going through Hecate Passage it requires to
be guarded against. Cadboro Point, open West of Channel Point, N.W. by
N. i N., leads a cable East of this ledge through Hecate Passage.

Caroline Reef, at the North part of the group, and connected to it by a rocky
ledge, is of small extent, and covers at a quarter flood, but is well out of the
track of vessels using any of the channels. Foul ground, with from 3 to 4
fathoms, and marked by kelp, exists upwards of a cable West of it.

DISCOVERT and CHATHAM ISLANDS.— Discovery Island is 2 miles
N.E. of Gonzales Point, at the junction of the Haro and Fuca Straits. It is
wooded, about three-quarters of a mile in extent, and its shores on all sides are
bordered by rocks. liudlin Bay, on its S.E. side, is filled with rocks, and
should not be used by any vessel.

'1.'*l

DISCOVERY AND CHATHAM ISLANDS.

403

Chatham Islands, to the N.W. of Discovery Island, and separated from it by
n narrow boat pass, are of small extent, forming an irregular group, low and
wooded, the tide rushing with great strength through the narrow passages be-
tween them. Leading Point, at the South extreme, is a bare rocky islet at high
water. Channel Point, their West extreme, is also bare and steep-to ; the tide
runs strong past it. Strong Tide Islet, the N.W. of these islands, is rocky,
about 50 ft. high, and wooded ; its West side forms the eastern boundary of
Baynes Channel, and is steep-to. The ebb tide runs very strongly past it, nearly
6 knots at springs. Refuge Cove, on the East side of Chatham Islands, is small,
and has 1^ fathom in the centre ; coasters or small craft entangled among these
islets may find shelter in it. Alpha Islet, the easternmost of the group, is bare,
and 10 ft. ab'^'o high water.

Fulford Rc«/f, 3 cables North of Chatham Islands, is about a cable in ex-
tent, and covers at three-quarters flood. Vessels using Baynes Channel should
keep well to the westward to avoid this reef, as the tide sets irregularly in its
vicinity.

Hecate and Plumper Pauages. — Discovery Island is separated from Chain
Islets by a passage half a mile wide in the narrowest part, forming an appa-
rently clear and wide channel, but near the middle of the South part lies
Centre Rock, which has only 3 ft. over it, and, though marked by kelp, this,
from the strength of the tides, is often run under, and seldom seen. There is
a deep passage on either side of this danger, the one to the westward being
called Ilecate, and the eastern one Plumper Passage. The latter is wider, and
best adapted for large steamers, but the tide sets very strongly through both of
them. Cadboro Point well shut in North of Leading Point, N.W. J N., leads
through Plumper Passage in mid-channel, East of Centre Rock.

Baynes Channel, between Cadboro Point and Chatham Islands, connecting
these inner channels with Haro Strait, is upwards of a mile long, and half a
mile wide. The soundings in it are irregular, varying from 4J to 30 fathoms,
and the tide at springs rushes through it with great velocity, strongest along
the eastern side.

Five-fathoms Shoal, lying in the centre of the channel, is not marked by
kelp. On its northern side is a patch of 4J fathoms, near which a shallow
patch of 16J ft., about 83 yards in extent, North and South, was found in 1880.
If wishing to avoid these shoals, a vessel has only to keep a little over on either
side of mid-channel.

CADBORO POINT, on the Vancouver shore, at the termination of the inner
channels, is nearly 3 miles North of Gonzales Point, and three-quarters of a
mile West of Chatham Islands. It is about 50 ft. high, rocky, and bare of
trees. A small islet lies just off it, also a reef which covers. In passing, do
not approach the islet within 2 cables.

The coast West of Cadboro Point to Cadboro Bay is low, very much
broken, and there are some off-lying rocks. Jemmy Jones Islet, which is bare,

17 ^

^^\

f'n

VANCOUVER ISLAND.

and 15 ft. above liigh water, lies 3 cables off shore, midway between the two
points.

None of these inner channels, though deep, should be used except by steamers
of moderate size, or small craft, unless in cases of necessity. Coasters and small
steamers, when taking advantage of them, generally proceed through Mayor
Channel. The Hecate and Plumper Passages are nearly straight, and better
adapted for large steamers than those West of Chain Islets.

Tides. — The high water, on full and change, is irregular, and much influenced
by prevailing winds ; the greatest rise and fall of tide at Discovery Island is
12 ft. During summer months the flood stream in these channels commences
at ll*" 15" a.m., running with great strength till nearly 3 p.m., after which but
little tide is felt till 4 a.m. on the following day, when the ebb commences and
runs strong till nearly 11 a.m., the time of low water by the shore.

COK STANCE BANK, lying in Juan de Fuca Strait, nearly 6 miles S.E. by
E. i E. from Fisgard Island lighthouse, 3 miles S. by W. from Tiial Island,
and 7 miles N.E. from Race Island lighthouse, is upwards of a mile in extent,
with 9 to 14 fathoms, but a vessel should not anchor on it, as the bottom is
rocky.

Fonte' Bank, about a mile in extent, wit ''rom 3 J- to 5 fathoms, and marked
by kelp, lies nearly in the middle of Juan de Fuca Strait, G miles S. J W. from
Cattle Point, San Juan Island, 8 miles E. by S. from Discove. Island, and 8
miles W. i S. from Smith or Blunt Island lighthouse. This bank ought to be
avoided, as there may be less water on it than was found.

HARO STRAIT has been described on pages 364—381. We now proceed
with the Western Coast of Vancouver Island, commencing with the coast
beyond Port San Juan, described on page 393.

The WESTERN COAST of Vancouver Island is comprised between Bonilla
Point, at the entrance of Juan de Fuca Strait, and Cape Scott, the N.W. ex-
treme of the island, a distance of upwards of 200 miles. Its general direction
is W.N.W. and E.S.E., but the coast is broken into deep inlets, the principal
of which — Barclay, Clayoquot, Nootka, Ksperanza, Kyuquot, and Quatsino
Sounds — are large sheets of water, with features similar to the other great
inlets on this part of the American continent.

Making the Land. — When first making the land, an unbroken range of
mountains will be seen ; on a netirer approach it appears thickly wooded, and
apparently fertile, intersected with many deep openings and valleys, which in
most cases are some of the inlets before mentioned. The coast is generally
low and rocky, but rises immediately to mountains of considerable height. It
is fringed by n\imerous rocks and hidden dangers, especially near the entrances

<; 'i

THE WESTERN COAST.

40i

of the sounds, and tho exorcise of great caution and vigilance will be ncccssai-y
on the part of the navigator to avoid them, even with the present large scale
charts. On no occasion, therefore, except where otherwise stated in the follow-
ing pages, should a stranger attempt to enter any of the harbours or anchorages
during night or thick weather, but rather keep a good offing until circumstances
are favourable ; and when about to make the coast, it cannot be too strongly
impressed upon the mariner to take every opportunity of ascertaining his
vessel's position by astronomical observations, as fogs and thick weather come
on very suddenly at all times of xhe year, more especially in the summer
and autumn months.

Tides. — All along the outer or West coast of ancouver Island it may be
said to be high water at full and change when the moon crosses the meridian,
viz., at noon and midnight, the tide showing considerable regularity as com-
pared with the inner waters, the greatest rise and fall being everywhere about
ft. There are two high and low waters in the 24 hours all the year round.
In summer months the superior high water is at midnight, and in winter
months at noon.

The flood stream appears to set along the coast to the N.W., and the ebb to
the S.E. ; neither is of great strength, except in the vicinity of Fuca Strait
and Scott Islands. In the summer months a set is generally found to the
southward, and in winter in the opposite direction, but the currents are
irregular, and influenced by prevailing winds.

Soundings. — At the entrance of Juan de Fuca Strait the lOO-fathoms edge
of the bank extends upwards of 30 miles off" shore; it then runs neai-ly straight
in a N.W. by W. direction, gradually nearing the coast, and abreast Cape
Cook or Woody Point the depth of 100 fathoms will be obtained within 4
miles of the shore; to the N.W. of Woody Point the lOO-fathoms edge does
not extend more than 10 miles off shore, and to the southward and westward
of Scott Islands even less.

The nature of the bottom, when under 100 fathoms, appears to be generaTiy
composed of sand and gravel, and does not differ in one part from another
sufficiently to aflbrd any guide for ascertaining a vessel's exact position on
the coast; the bank, however, extends far enough off" shore to the S.E. of
Cape Cook, that if running for the coast in thick weather, the mariner, by
sounding in time, will get due notice of his approach to the land, as the edge of
100 fathoms does not come within 18 miles of it, and the bank shoals very
gradually.

The Coast from Port San Juan runs 10 miles in a westerly direction to
Bonilla Point, rising gi-adually to elevations from 1,000 to 2,000 ft. ; it is rocky
and bluff, and the land is thickly wooded. Bonilla Point, tho Noith entrance
point of Fuca Strait, is 12 J miles N.N.W. of Cape Flattery; the point slopes
gradually to the sea, is not in any way remarkable, and may bo approached
within I mile.

::^^^^m

' '

:i!'

t06

VANCOUVER ISLAND.

Nitinat Lake, the entrance to which is narrow and shoal, is 7 miles west-
ward of Ucnilla Point. The lake is of considerable size, extending to the
northward and eastward. There is only 1 to 2 fathoms in the entrance, and
the sea generally breaks heavily across it in bad weather. Four miles to the
westward of the entrance is a remarkable waterfall, called by the natives
Tsusiat, which may be seen at a good distance, even in thick weather, when it
would help to identify a vessel's position, being the only waterfall on this part
of the coast.

Pachena Bay, 20 miles westward of Bonilla Point, is nearly 2 miles deep in
a northerly direction, and half a mile wide, with from 5 to 6 fathoms water,
but as it is open to the southward and S.W., and there is usually a heavy swell
setting into it, no vessel should anchor there. 0£F the entrance is Seabird
Islet, 10 ft. high.

The coast between Pachena Bay and Beale Point, the S.E. point of entrance
of Barclay Sound, a distance of 3 miles, is rocky, forming an open bay which
aifords no shelter.

BARCLAY SOUND* is an extensive arm of the sea, 30 miles westward of
the entrance of Juan de Fuca Strait. It is upwards of 14 miles wide at the
entrance, and though encumbered by numerous islands it maintains this
iM-eadth for nearly 12 miles inland, when it separates into several narrow inlets
or canals, the principal of which, the Alberni Inlet, extends 23 miles in a
northerly direction, its head reaching within 14 miles of the eastern or inner
coast of Vancouver Island. Off the entrance, and in the southern parts of the
sound, are innumerable rocks and islands, with several navigable channels
between them, which, however, ought to be used with great caution by a
stranger, who should not attempt to enter at night. The shores are low,
except in the northern part and among the canals, when they become high,
rugged, and mountainous.

It is high water in Barclay Sound, on full and change, at 12'', and the rise
and fall of tide is about 12 feet.

A bank of sand and gravel, with depths from 25 to 45 fathoms, extends
20 or 25 miles to the southward and westward of the entrance of Barclay
Sound. In the middle of this bank there is a deep hole, the East part of
which is 5 miles S. W. from the entrance ; from thence the hole extends 19
miles in a W.S.W. direction, with depths varying from 60 to 100 fathoms.
This bank and hole are useful for ascertaining a vessel's position in thick
weather.

There are three navigable ship channels into Barclay Sound, viz., the

* Barclay Sound, as it is now spelt, at the head of which the Albcriii Settlement is
placed, (should properly, I believe, be " Burkely," as it was named by Captain Berkely, of
the ship Imperial EagU, who in 1787 discovered, or rather rediscovered, the Strait of Fuca.
m-Ca^t, £. C. Maym,

ti-t

I i ■

BARCLAY SOUND-CAPE BEALE.

407

Eastern, Middle, and Western, and all require great caution in navigating ;
they will be described in their regular order.

TLa Eastern Channel, on the eastern side of Barclay Sound, between the
main shore and Deer Islands, is 12 miles long in a N.N.E. direction, and its
breadth varies from I to 1 J mile. Its shores are low and rugged, except in
the North part, which becomes high. The soundings in the entrance vary
from 18 to 22 fathoms, increasing gradually to 90 and 100 fathoms at the
North part. There are several dangers within it, the rocks off Cape Bcale
and Channel Rocks at the southern part, and Fog Rock off the East side of
Tzaartoos Island.

CAFE BEALE is the S.E. point of entrance of Barclay Sound, and of the
Eastern Channel ; its lighthouse is 30J miles N.W. by W. | W. from Cape
Flattery lighthouse. It is a bold rocky point, 120 ft. high, and some rocks
c+^nd off it, from 2 to 4 cables.

'I'he LIGHTHOUSE on Cape Beale is a square tower, about 40 ft. high,
and painted light stone colour ; from it is shown a revolving bright light every
half minute, elevated 164 ft., and visible 19 miles. Lat. 48" 47' 30" N., long.
125° 12' 50" W.

At night the light should not be brought to bear to the eastward of E. i N.,
to avoid the dangers ofi' the entrances to the sound. To the northward of
East the light becomes obscured.

Bamfield Creek, 4 miles from Cope Beale, on the East side of the channel,
runs in 1^ mile in a southerly direction ; there is room for a vessel to moor at
a short distance from its head in 6 fathoms. Grappler Creek extends from the
entrance of Bamfield Creek two-thirds of a mile to the eastward. Kelp Bay,
5| miles from Cape Beale, is two-thirds of a mile wide, a quarter of a mile
deep, and affords a fairly-sheltered anchorage in 6 to 14 fathoms.

Mark Islet, 8 miles from Cape Beale, and 1 cable off tlie East side of the
channel, is small and wooded, and conspicuous from the entrance of the Middle
Channel.

Nnmukamis Bay, 9 miles from Cape Beale, at the N.E. part of the Eastern
Channel, is of an oblong shape, 3 miles wide and IJ mile deep ; its shores rise
gradually to mountains from 1,000 to 2,000 ft. high. In the centre of the bay
are the San Josi and Reef Islets, of small extent and low,

Poett Nook, in the South part of this bay, about 1 mile within its S.W.
point, is a landlocked basin, about 3 cables long and 2 cables wide, with 7
fathoms water.

Turn Island, at the N.E. point of the Eastern Channel, and dividing it from
the Alberni Channel, is small and wooded, and separated by a narrow boat
pass from the East shore.

Ship Islet, at the S.W. point of the Eastern Channel, N.W. J N., 2 miles
from Cape Beale, is 100 ft. high and rocky, with a few remarkable trees on its
northern part, which at some distance seaward give the islet the appearance of

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408

VAXC'()l'Vi:U ISLAND.

u .«hip unflcr snil, an>l form a good murk for identifying the channel. There is
front 23 to 2-1 futhoniH nt 2 cables distanco front it.

DEvlR ISLANDS form the western boundary ( the Eastern riinjinel, and
run N.X.K. ond S.S.W. for 10 miles, with a breadth varying from 1 to 2
miles. They arc low and of inconsiderable size, exeej)t the rorlhern one,
which is 1,000 ft. high in parts, and of consideriible extent. There is only
one navigable passage through them, the Satellite Pass, between Ilulby und
Hill Islands.

King^ Island, the southernmost of these islands, is about 1 mile long and half
a mile broad. Its ihores are very rugged and broL''>n, with rocks extending
from 1 to 2 cables off.

Channel Hocks, on the West side of the channel, 3 cables East of King
Island, and 1 mile E.N.E. from Ship Islet, tre about 1 caole in extent, and
cover at half flood. There is 10 to 12 fathoms at the distance of a cable to
the eastward of them, and the sea generally breaks over them. They must be
carefully avoided.

Diana Island, separated from King Island by a passage full of rocks, is of
triangular shape, about 1 J mile wide, and thref;-{juarters of a mile broad. Its
shores arc rocky, and at a distance of 2 cables from its East side is 2'odd Hock,
awash at high water, with IC fathoms close to it.

Helby Island, the next island northward of Diana, has off its North side a
small, but well sheltered, anchorage, in from G to 9 fathoms, easy of access
from either the Eastern or Middle Channels, and very convenient ns a
stopping-place for vessels entering or leaving Barclay Sound. This is known
as Entrance Anchorage.

Hill Island, two-thirds of a mile North of Helby Island, and separated
from it by Satellite Pass, is small, with a summit of moderate height at its
southern end. At a quarter of a mile South of it is a patch of 3J fathoms
water, marked by kv Ip, and there are several suall islets and rocks off its East
and West sides.

Bobbers Island, separated from Hill Island by a passage full of rocks, is
2 miles long and 1 mile broad at its widest part. It is low and stecp-to on the
eastern side, and between it and Tzaartooc Island is a small landlocked basin
of j to 7 fathoms water, but almost inaccessible.

Tzaartoos or Copper Island, the northernmost of the Deer Islands, is 4J^
niles long in a N.N.E. direction, and IJ mile broad. It is higher than the
otuer islands, rising in many parts to 800 and 1,000 ft. ; its eastern side, except
in the vicinity of Sproat Bay, is steepto, and may be approached to 2 cables.
Limestone of a fine quality : j to be found ;u its northern part, and there arc
several indications of copper and iron ores.

Sproat Bay, on the East side of Tzaartoos Island, is about half a mile wide
and 2 cables deep. In its centre are two small islets, and between them and
the southern side of the bay a vessel may anchor in from 11 to 15 fathoms.

"' ' " ]

BARCLAY SOUND— ALUKUNI INLET.

409

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Leading Bhtff, situated just South of the bay, is ii steop point -100 ft. high, and
connpicuous from the entrance of the ICastorn Channel.

Fog Rock, lyJnfj about 2 cables lOust of Sproat Hay, is of small extent, with
only ft. over it, and stoop-to all round. This danger is in the track of vessel.s
using Sproat bay, and rei^uires caution to avoid it, not being marked by kelp
in the spring.

Nob Point, the S.W. entrance point of Alberni Inlet, and N.W. point of
Eastern Channel, is about hi'lf a mile to the northward of Tzaartoos Island,
and nearly 13 miles from Capo Uoalo. It is a remarkable cliffy projecting
point 476 ft. high, stcep-to on its South and East sides.

ALBERNI INLET, at the N.E. part of Barclay Soimd, runs in a winding
northerly direction for 22 miles, with a breadth varying from 2 cables to
1 mile, and terminates in a fine ea])acious anchorage at its head; the shores on
cither side are rocky and rugged, rising abruptly from the aca to mountains
2,000 and 3,000 ft. high ; at the head, however, the land becomes low and
fertile, a large quantity being fit for cultivation,. A settlenicnt and large saw-
mills are established there, and quantities of the finest timber exported to
different parts of the world. Several vessels have also been built here.

The soundings to within 1 mile of the head vary from 100 to 40 fathoms,
r the shores of the inlet are everywhere free from danger. The entrance
■en Nob Point and Turn Island lies at the termination of the Eastern
^ .unci, lies 13 miles N.N.E. from Cape Beale.

San Mateo Bay, on the East side of the inlet, at IJ mile North of Turn
Point, is three-quarters of a mile wide, and 1 mile deep. Its shores are high,
and the soundings in it vary from 20 to 50 fathoms, being too deep for an-
chorage. Mutine Point, midway between this bay and Turn Island, is rocky,
and, as at a short distance off it a rock is said to exist, a berth of 2 cables
ought to be given in passing. Just South of this poiiit is a small bay with
irregular soundings from 11 to 17 fathoms, which might be used as a stopping-
place.

Uchncklesit Harbour, on the West side of the inlet, 2 miles within Nob
Point, is 3 miles long in a westerly direction, and its average breadth is about
half a mile; the North shore is high, using gradually to mountains of 2,000
and 3,000 ft., but the South shores and head are low ; all are free from danger
at the distance of a cable. The soundings vary from 20 to 40 fathoms, and
there are two secure anchorages. Green Cove at the entrance, and Snug Basin
at the head, with from 9 to 15 fathoms water. Limestone of very fine quality
is to be procured at the head of the harbour, and coal has been found.

Green Cove, just within the entrance on the North side of the harbour, affords

a snug, well-sheltered anchorage in 9 to 14 fathoms. Harbour Island, off its

South side, and completely landlocking the anchorage in that direction, is of

small extent, with a clear deep passage on either side into the anchorage. A

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410

VANCOUVJUl ISLAND.

rook lies half n cablo off itn S.K. point. Tins antihorago is cnnTonicnt na a
•toppinf^-pluiio for vessels bound to or from Stump lliirbour iit the hciid of
Albernt lalot, and the cntnincu.s to it, on cilhur uidc of llurbour iHlund, muke
it uvailiible to siiilinf; vchsoIm or Kt(Minii'rn.

Stm7)ier I'aa.sai/fi, on tlio Must side of ITarliour Island, loadH into fSrcon
CVvj. Ft Hhould only bo tisrd by HttNunerH, or Hailiii|j; sliips with a fair wind.
Ship Paxncif/c, wliich leads into (Ircen ('ovo Noilh of Harbour Island, h
4 cables Ion;;, and 2 cables wide, clear of danger, with from 1 1 to 20 fathoms,
Bi^d available for sailing ships unable to enter or leave Qrcen Cove by Steamer
russule.

On the North shore, 1 mile from Green Oovc, is a largo otrcam of fresh
water, with a bank extending a short distance oft" it.

From llehuekh.'sit Harbour, tho Alberni Inlet trends N.K. byK. for .T miles,
and is stee|)-to on botli sides, after wliieh it runs N. by W. to the head.

Nahmitlt Bay, on the West side of Alberni Inlet, 10 miles within its en-
trance, is about half a mile in extent, with from 10 to 20 fathoms water, and
may be \is(m1 as a 8topi)ing-place, if working down the inlet; a largo stream
disembogues jit its bead.

The I''ir.s( A'anows, l>i mUv.H from tho entrance to the inlet, are ,1 cables
M-ide at low water, steep-to on the West side, with 2(5 fathoms in mid-
cluinnel ; if passing through them at high water, keep well over to the western
shore.

I'he Second Nurrowii, IH miles from the entrance, are 2 cables wide at low
water, Ntee])-to on the Mast side; the West si(l(> dries out 1 cable at low water.
Tlu; dei)th in mid-channel is 40 fathoms; and in going through them a vessel
ought to kcej) well over on the east(Tn side.

Stamp Harbour, at the head of Alberni Inlet, is a capacious and seeme
inielioinge, 2 miles in length, aiul varying in breadth from I cables to 1 mile.
Its western kIioic is high and rocky, but the eastern side an<l head are low
and fertile, with a ([uantity of clear h :v(>l land, almost (it for cultivation. A
Ktrcam of eonsidcrabh! size, the A'l/ma.v.v ]iivn\ (lows into the harbour at the
]iead,and is navigabli- for canoes several miles. It h.is its source in a chain of
extensive lakes in tho interior of Vancouver Island, arul the iiuantity of water
discharged from it is so great that there is a constant current out of tho inlet,
often exceeding 1 knot in stiength.

An extensive saw-mill bus been built on the Mast side of Stamp IIar))our,
nnd a small settlement formed, eon)j)osed mostly of the workmen connected
with the establishment, (ireat (puintities of the finest timber in the world for
spars are exported fnnn this piaee, and vessels of coiisiderable size may lie
close to the saw-mill witbidit grouiu'ing, as there is ■! fathoms almost iitongside
it. 'I'he aneliorago in the )jirO!)ui is in H to 12 fathoms, at the distancu of
three(nun»ers of a mile from the head, with Observatory fhh t S.W. and tho
Daw-mill North.

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lUUOLAY SOUND -EASTEUN CIIAN.NKL.

Ohscrvatori/ hlet, in tlio centre of the linrbour, is u Nmnll linrc rock about
6 ft. above bif;li water. Some rocks cxteiul hiilf n cnble North of it, but may
be ai)i)n)ai-hi(l within 1 cable. It is in lat. 'I!)" 14' N., lonj;. 121' M)' W.

DirectioilB. — In entering Har(;lay Sound througli the MuHtern (Channel, tho
S.K. entrance point, Cape Heale, may be eauily recognized frc)ni the S.l'',, by
itK liphthouBc and the inlands West of it, Ship Islet being also very eonHpicuous
from the trees on its Nirtli part. In approach ing or roimding the cajie, do
not come nearer than half a mile to avoid the rocks oil' it, until 'I'urn Island at
the North part of Ka.stcrn ('hainiel is well .shut in by Leading HluH', Tzaartoos
iHlund, N. by E j V,., when steer up the EaHtcrn ('hannel with that mark on,
wliich will lead clear of the roc'ks off the West side of ('!ij)c IJcale, and I'last of
Channel Uocks. When Ship Island bears W.S.W., the vessel will be well
North of the latter, and may Uien steer up mid-channel about N.N.E. ; on
nc.'iring Leading HIufT, keep the East side of Hill Island open South of it
S.VV. i S., to j)a.sH I'',ast of i''og Hock, luitil the West sidi- of Nob I'oint conu-s
open East of !/imestojie I'oint N. J W., when steer up within 2 cables of either
shore, or in mid-channi-l. If bound to Stamj) Harbour, after entering the
Alberni Inlet, the only direction reciuired is to keep mid-ehaimel, and anchor
i 'I the eastern side of the harbour, with tin; bearings already given.

After cnteriuy, tho Alberni, a strong southerly wind will generally bo ox-
j)crienced, blowing homo to the head ; it however usually falls a little during
the niglit.

A stenm-tug is atta(;hed to the saw-mill establishment, for the purpone of
towing vessels through the Eastern ( 'hannel ; when a vessel is expected the
tug generally lies in Dodger (,'ove, at the entrance of Middle Channel, where
a good look-out can be kept.

If beating into the Eastern Clianncl, whieli ouglit only to be done by small
or quick working vessels, when standing towards Cape IkMi.le, tack before the
passage between Turn Island and the main comes oj)cn of Leading IJIulF
N.N.E. Ship Islet may be approached to a (piarter of n mile; when nearing
King Islanil, or Chaniud Kocks, tack when Turn Island comes sliut in with
Leading Hluff. As a rule, in standing fowardi* tlu> East shore do not como
within 2 cables, and after ])assing (Channel Uoeks, keep outside of the line of
Deer Islands. On nearing Leading Jtlulf and I'"og l{o(rk, keep Hill Island
open of the fiumei- S.W. 4 S. till Nob I'oint comes well opiii nf Liniestime
I'oint N. i \V., which cU.ais l''og Koek to the South and N.E. In standing
into Numukamis Kay, give Ileef and San .lose Islands a berth of about
2 cables, after which tlu; shore on either side may be approached to about a
cable, cxeej)t near thi; centre of Numukamis Hay, which should not bo
apiiroaehed closer than half a mile.

If necessary to anchor for the night, or from other causes, Entrniice An-
chorage in the DerrGroup, just North of lle!l)y Island, is reconiniended, being
Bceure, and easy of access from either Eastern or Middle Channels. Kelp,

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Vanx'ouvkk island.

Spront, nnd Xahniint Jiajs, also Green Cove, arc easy of access, nnd mny bo
used us sloppiuf^-places.

MIDDLE CHANNEL, the largest passage into Rarclay Sound, is adjacent
to the Kahtcrn Channel, and se])araf.ed from it by Deer Ihlaiid.s. It is upwards
of 12 luiles long in a N.N.K. direction, and Smiles wide in liic nanowuht part,
being bounded on either side by numerous small islands and rocks. Tho
soundings within vary from 30 to 51 fathoms, and olf its entrance arc three
dangers, named Western .Reef, Channel Ketf, and Danger Uock, which only
break in heavy weather, and require great camion to avoid. Vessels will avoid
them by night by keeping Cape 13calo light in sight. In southerly or south-
westerly gules there is generally a very heavy sea in this channel.

Danger Rock, in the S !•;. part of the entrance of Middle Channel, is OJ
miles ^V. i N. from Cape Beale, and S.\V. by \V. i \V. 2^ miles from Ship
Islet; it is of small extent, and only breaks in heavy weather. There is from
22 to -10 fathoms nt a distance of 2 cables around it. Swiss IJoy Island just
open '\\\'»t of Entrance Island, X.X.K., leads half a mile East of Danger
Hock ; Mark Islet open North of Kagged Island, N.l'!., leads the same distance
West of it, and East of Channel Hcef ; iind Sail Kock in sight West of Storm
Island, N.W. by W. i W., leads South of it and C'hunncl Ifeef.

Channel Reef lies near the centre of the entrance of Middle Channel, Sjf
miles W. I S. from Ship Islet, and ij mile W.iS'.W. from Danger Uoek. It
is about a cable in extent, uncovers at low water, and has 27 fathoms close-to
on tho eastern side; tliere is from 19 to f)U fathoms in the channel between
it and Danger J^oek, aiid the .same marks clear !)oih of them.

Western Reef lies in the S.W. part of the cutramee, 5^ miles W. 2 ^•
from Ship Ish t, ami 1 mile South of the Broken Group ; it is about a cable in
extent, awash at low water, and should not be aj.iproaelied wilhiii half a mile.

Entrance Island, the S.E. jjoint of Middle Clnmnel tntranei, and nearly
1 mile W.N.^^^ from Shij) Islet, is of small extent, and wooded. It is steep-to
and cliffy on the South and Wcsl sides.

Hecate Passage, lending into Middle Channel between Entrance Island and
Danger Hock, is 2 miles wide, with from .'53 to 71 fathoms water, and i» the bcMt
way to enter Middle Channel in thick weathvr, or fiom the South or Ea^t.
iS/iar/i J'uss, between I'liitranee and Ship Inlands, is two-thirds of a mile wide,
with from 11 to 25 fathoms in the middle, and may be used by steamers or
sailing vessels with a fair wind.

l)o(hjfr Cote, on the ICast side of Middle Channel, between Diana and Kin;;
Islands, is a narrow creek about two-thirds of a mile long and a cable wide,
with several rocks and small islets off its entrance. It ufJbrds good shelter to
coasters or small eraft at its bead, but it should not bo attempted by -i stranger.

Satellite Pass, 3 miles from Entrance Island, lies between Ilelby nnd 1 1 ill
Islands, connecting the Eastern and Middle Channels. Its length is about a
mile, and breadth half a mile j the soundings in the middle vary from 9 to 22

J3AKCLAY SOUND—MIDDIJ.; OnANNEL.

41.1

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fathoms. nn<l the South side is clear of danj^cr, but .'5 ('111)108 South of TTill
Island, on the North side of the pass, is a shoal ])atch with 3^ fathoms, marked
by kelp. Leading IJluff open of the East side of ilill Island, N.K. by N., leads
to the S.E. of this shoal.

A vessel l)f)uiid to Albcrni Inlet, after having entered Middle Channel,
should proceed through this pass into the Eastern Channel, and on to the inlet
through the latter, keeping about 1 or 2 cables North of Ragged, Ilelby, and
Wizard Islan<ls.

Village Rocks, lying on the East side of Middle Channel, G miles from
Entrance Island, and one-third of a mile from the N.W. jjoint of Robbers
island, arc 2 cables in extent, nearly awash at low water, and usually break in
heavy weather. They should not be approached within a (juartcr of a mile.

Chain Islands, on the East side of Middle Ch;uinel, are a chain of small
islets and rocks nearly 1 miles long in a northerly direction, 'i'hey run
parallel to the West side of Tzaartoos Island, b( ing separated from it by a
passage three-qnartcrs of a mile wide, but filled with rocks, and among which
no vessel should enter.

Swiss Buy Is/am/, the southernmost of this group, is small and cliffy, and
2 cables West of it is /I'lll liork, of small extent, with less than 2 fathoms
water, which breaks in bad weather. A vessel ought not to approach the
West side of these islandn within half a mile, ext ept when rounding their
North part.

JUNCTION PASSAGE, nt the N.E. part of Middle Chnnnel, connecting it
with the Alberni Inlet and lilastern Channel, lies North of the Chain arid
Tzaartoos Islands, between theni and the main. It is 2 miles long in an
easterly direction, about one-third of a mile wide, its shores are clear of dan, r,
and the soundings in mid-channel vary from 50 to 84 fathoms. On the North
side of the passage is liainij /iV/y, abovit li mile in e.vtent ; but there are
several roeks and small islets within it, the shores are rugged and broken and
the water too deep to afford anchorage. Northward of this hay, and connected
to it by a very narrow boat pass, is Cselesn Inlet, a large sheet of water with
from 9 to 20 fathoms, which no vessel can enter.

BROKEN GROUP, which forms the boundary of Middle Channel along the
\\\',--t side, is eomj)osed of a number of small islets and rocks, covering a space
ujjwards of miles long and 4 miles wide. They are low, and the principal
ones wooded, the largest being about a mik^ in extent; there are several
passages through them, and a good anchorage, called Island Harbour, in their
N.E. part, but as a rule no stranger should venture among them or appro,Hch
wilbii> half a mile, as the soundings are irregular, and there may exist rocks
besides those marked on the charts.

< at tlie S.W. entrance t)oint of

BedoDiia, the S.E

Middle Channel, 4.J miles W. i N. from Ship Jslet. It is «niall. wooded, and
uf u round sha^ie ; some rocks extend a cables off its S.E. jioiut, ami hall' u

l\\

414

Vaxcouveu island.

I :

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mile E.N.E. of it is a reef which covers at half-flood. Between Redonda
Island and Channel Reef is a passage 1 mile wide, with from 19 to 33 fathoms,
but it should not be attempted by a stranger.

Village Island, the largest of the group, is IJ mile North of Redonda, and
upwards of a mile in extent ; the East side is bold and cliffy. On its North
side is a village of considerable size, where landing may be effected in almost
all weathers.

Coaster Channel, which runs in a westerly direction through the Broken
Group, North of Village Island, is about 4 miles long, and from half a mile to
1 mile wide, with from 10 to 24 fathoms; but as there are several rocks within
it, this channel should not be attempted by a stranger.

Village Reef, in the East part of Coaster Channel, half a mile North of
Village Island, is small, and 4 ft. above high water ; there is 34 fathoms at
3 cables East of it.

Island Harbour, in the N.E. part of Broken Group, and 5 miles from the
entrance of Middle Channel, is a good, well-sheltered anchorage, about half a
mile in extent, with from 1 to 14 fathoms water ; it is formed by several rocks
and islands, and there are two good passages into it from the Middle Channel.
Protection Island, off its East side, and protec .ing it in that direction, is two-
thirds of a mile long, and narrow. Elbow Islet, 3 cables S.S.W. from Protec-
tion Island, is small and rugged, with a notch in the centre ; the islet is con-
spicuous from the southward. Elbow Rocks, which cover at two-thirds flood,
lie IJ cable N.N.E. of Elbow Islet, between it and Protection Island, and are
steep-to on all sides. Pinnace Rock, 3 cables East of Elbow Islet, almost in
the fairway of the South entrance, only breaks in heavy weather, and is dan-
gerous to vessels entering the harbour by that passage.

Island Harbour may be entered either by the South or by the Harbour En-
trance. The South entrance, between Elbow Rocks and Protection Island, is
li cable wide at its South part, with from 9 to 14 fathoms water. Harbour
Entrance, along the North side of Protection Island, between it aud Gibraltar
Island, is nearly a mile long, and its breadth averages about 2 cables. The
soundings within it vary from 15 to 18 fathoms, and in the middle, 4 cables
from its East end, lies Channel Eock, of small extent, with only 9 ft. on it at
low water.

The best anchorage is near the centre of the harbour, about 2 cables West
of the N.W. end of Protection Island, in from 10 to 12 fathoms, protected by
Puzzle and MuUins Islands from the westward.

No one should attempt to enter this harbour without the chart, unless
thoroi;ghly acquainted with the place ; and it ought only to be entered by
sailing vessels with a fair wind.

Nettle Island, the N.E. island of Broken Group, is nearly 1 mile in extent,
Bteep-to off its North side, but East and West of it iome islets and rocks
extend out half a mile. At half a mile Eu&t of its East point is a small bare

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BARCLAY SOUND-MIDDLE CHANNEL.

415

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rock 8 ft. above high water, named Swale Rock, which is very conspicuous from
Middle Channel, and marks the East entrance of Seshart Channel.

SESHART CHANNEL is North of Broken Group between it and the main,
and connects the Western and Middle Channels. It is a winding channel, 5
miles long in a westoly direction, and about half a mile wide; the soundings
in it vary from 16 to >'5 fathoms, and a mid-channel course through is free from
danger.

Capstan Island, 3 miks from the East entrance, and nearly in the middle of
this channel, is small, and the southernmost of a number of small islands, ex-
tending nearly 1 mile from the North shore. Westward of those islets is an
extensive village, called Seshari_ to the 8ou*^wardof which a vessel may anchor
a quarter of a mile off shore.

Bird Islets are two small, bare, conspicuous rocks, lying almost in the centre
of the North part of Middle Channel, 9 miles from the entrance ; the southern
islet is 35 ft., and the northern 30 ft., aiiove high water.

Effingham Inlet, the entrance to which is in the N.W. p.".rt of Middle
Channel, is narrow, and about 8 miles long in a curved direction to the N.W.,
terminating in a low swamp ; its shores on both sides are high and rocky, the
western one indented by several bays. The soundings in it vary from 35 to 70
fathoms, and there is no anchorage.

Vernon Bay, 1 mile East of Effingham Inlet, at the head of Middle Channel,
is upwards of a mile in extent, open to the southward, and too deep to aflTord
anchorage ; its shores are high and rocky. At 3 cables off Palmer Point, its
S.W. extreme, is a rock 3 ft. above high water.

The North shore of Middle Channel is rocky and bold, rising in some place
to mountains upwards of 3,000 ft. high ; it is steep-to, and clear of danger ; in
southerly wi.ids the sea breaks violently along it.

DIRECTIONS.— Entering Barclay Sound by the Middle Channel with a fiiir
wind, and coming from the West or S.W., keep well clear of the western part
of the Sound, and 3 miles South of Broken Group. Steer towards Ship Islet
on an K.N.E. bearing, until Mark Islet conies open North of Ragged Island
N.E., when haul into the Middle Channel with that mark on, which will loud
midway between Channel Eeef and Danger Rock; when Ship Islet bears
E. by N. the vessel will be clear North of them, and may then steer up mid-
channel. If bound to Alberni Inlet, a sailing vessel ought to proceed through
Satellite Pass into the Eastern Channel (as the wind is generally unsteady in
Junction Passage), proceeding according to the directions given in page 411
for the latter channel. Should it, however, be requisite to go through Junction
Passage, give Chain Islands a berth of nearly half a mile to avoid the rocks off
them, and steer in mid-channel through the passage into Alberni Inlet.

Unless intending to go through Satellite Passage, do not approach Deer
Islands within half a mile.

If entering Middle Channel from the eastward, or in thick weather, and not

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41G

VANC'OITVKR ISLAND.

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ftble to sec the marks for clearing the reefs, keep well out until Kntrnncc Tslnnd
bcnrs North, when steer through Hcente PiiHsagc so as to pass 2 or 3 cables
West of the island, which will lead well eastward of all danger, then proceed
as before directed.

Heating into Middle Channel, when South of Danger Rock ind Channel
Reef, keep Sail Rock (wliich lies off the S.W. side of Broken Oroup, and is
very conspicuous) open South of Storm Isliind, the southernmost of the group,
N.W. by W. J W., until Murk Islet comes nearly on with the S.K. point of
Hill Island N.E. i K., wiien, if standing to the westward, tack ; in standing
to the eastward, avoid shutting in the passage between Hill and Ragged
Islands ; tacking when these hitter marks are on will lead between Danger and
Channel Reefs, and clear of them. When Ship Islet bears East, a vessel will
be northward of them, and may stand over to about half a mile from Deer
Islands, and a mile from Rroken Oroup. If bound to .Mberni Tnlet, when able
to lay through Satellite Pass, do so, keei)ii)g nearer to its South shore, and beat
up to the former through the Eastern ('hannel. No vessel should nltempt to
boat through Middle Channel unless the weather be clear, and the marks well
made out.

WESTERN CHANNEL leads into Barclay Round westward of Rroken
Oroup, betwt^en it and (neat Rank. Its length is about t miles in a northerly
direction, its breadth from 1 to 2 mihis. Siiil Hock, lying off the S.W. part of
Rroken Oroup, is a bare rock like a sail, rising 100 ft. above the sea, and very
conspicuous. Shwj Rock, H ft. above high water, on the East side of the
channel, 'JJ miles N. J W. from Sail Rock, and half a mile West of Rroken
Oroup, is small and bare, and foul grouiul exists 1 cable from it. linund /s/am/,
near the middle of the North part of the channel, i.s small, but 200 ft. high ; it
lies -Ti miles N. by W. from Sail Rock.

Black Rock, at the S.W. entrance point of the \\'('stern Channel, .'!J miles
S.W. by W. J W. from Sail Rock, is 10 ft. above high water, and snuill ; some
rocks, which break, extend 2 cables East of it.

Channel Hack lies at the S.E. extreme of (ircat Rank, on the West side of
the channel. It is bare, 1.") ft. above high water, and steep-to on its eastern
side. Great Ihink is, within the 10-fathoms edge, 2 J miles long in a nortlierly
direction, aiul its greatest breadth is 1 J mile ; on the shonlest parts, near the
North and S.W. ends, there is from .'5 to 4 fathoms, marked by kelp, over
which in heavy gales the sea breaks.

Directions. — The Western Channel, though clear of danger and wide, ought
only to be used by steamers, or sailing vessels with a fair wind, and not then
iniless bound to 'I'cxiuart Harbour, in the north-western part of Rarclav Soinid.
In entering, give Sail an'l Mhiek R'oeks a berth of half a mile, and steer up
mid-channel, passing tialfamile West of Round Island.

Peacock Channel runs through the N.W. part of Rroken Oroup in a N.E.
direction from the NVostern to Seshart Channel. It is about .'( miles long, and

1 V\

BARCLAY «orxn,TO(arA,rr HAunoup

ncnrly „ milo wide, with from 20 to 30 fat, • ''^

«;r. but on it. K„«t ..., , j ,.,,, ':^,^ ' /'^ ^^^-t «i.,„ i, ....^ of d«„.
of Pu.xIo I«I„„„. u,, ry„,/ ,,,^,,, ° ^^ ^-"t entrance. a„,l 2 cables We"t

.to, , ,„,,„ , ,, ^^ .^/ This; ;ri;:r ": '-^ ^^"'^'•' "-> '- s

>v.th „ fa.r win,!. """^' '« ''' f„r «ten„K.r«. or sailing vessels

^/(/>i(l I.,lan,l, (ho N W of II 1, r,

Mayno Island, northwar.i of Lval! P • . •
';"'^'. '""1 1 nnlo .leep. I,, shore 1 r,'' '' f "" '""""^' «""Pe. 2 .i,es
■^'-i>-t':. ti.e .o,nu,in,. vary fr„,„ 20 t>;'" '" ''•""' ^-'^ "- low
;--<7'; ." it.s S.,, ,o,„er. .here there s;,;?' ""' ''^'" ''^ "" "-'-rn

"J" "^» ^^^-W. point. n,ay he approael^ ol T' ''''""'''^ «-'»' ^
f W-- /'/-.'/.. bin, half a mile Wes" of r ™. ''^

T 7™"-' i» '. »".! .1.0 ».„*,,;,;;'■■■'■'• •■"«"". •■! o,,i,i„ „■ ,,

'-". .1..-. rock „„„ n„ i.,„„„, • "■»>""oo ; « ,e», .,,„„„ „„, -'

Toquart Harbour, i„ ,|,„ \ w , ,

S."l.p.r I,ln„,,> f,,„„ „„ „ ' "J""' U »..lc 1., ..,,„„, „„,, ,„„ „,,';"»

"7,;^ '"'< '«"- % J.:. """"''■° " •" '-^*™^<o »*: ',:

' '''<'.'/" I'dssaofl leads intn ♦!,„ v ,
"tail iH a small nntfli .c -.uuo ft. ahovn fi>..

,„,„„,„,. ""^" "'''"■"'■' »'""».>. »...of.«i.-„.r. .:::;,'"'■"
;•""•■■ ■•"""« """. I....II.-I .„ ,1.0 ;:;*„: :," f™" •^'""i- w™^. ^^s,

3 ft

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418

VANCOUVER ISLAND.

Island, the southernmost of thcra, is moderately high, nnd stcop-to on ita
South side ; nearly a mile S. W. from it, and extending from the oppoiiitc shore
are a number of rocks above high water.

Ship Channel, between the Vancouver shore and Great Bank, southward o£
Forbes Island, leads into Ucluelet Arm, ar \ is clear of danger. It is 4 miles
long N.N.E. and S.S.W., two-thirds of u mile broad in its narrowest part,
and the soundings vary from 26 to 38 fathoms. Double Inland, at its S.E.
point, is of small extent, steep-to on the West side, but from the South and
East sides foul ground extends upwards of a mile. Kvlp Islet, G cables N.W.
of Double Island, on the opposite side of the channel, is low and bare ; kelp
extends 2 cables South of it, but there is a depth of 31 fathoms midway be-
tween it and Double Island.

Ugly Channel, to the eastward of Shelter Islands, connects Ship Channel
with the ocean. It is bounded on both sides by rocks and reefs, and, though
probably deep, it has not been sufficiently examined to recommend its being
used by a stranger ; the soundings in the North part vary from 28 to 30
fathoms. Starllyht Reefs, at its S.E. part, are a cluster of rocks about 7 cables
in extent, some above high water ; in bad weather the sea breaks heavily over
them.

Looh-out Island, on the West side, is nearly bare, of small extent, and about
l.'^O ft. high ; at 3 cables South of it is a patch of rocks 2 cables in extent, and
C cables Nortli of it lies a bare rock, 6 ft. above high water.

UCLUELET ARM, just within the S.W. entrance point of I3arclay Round,
is narrow, and extends 5J miles in a N.W. by W. direction, running parallel
to the outer coast, and separated from it by a narrow peninsula. Its South
shore is low, and indented by several small creeks and bays ; the northern shore
is nearly straight, nnd, at a short distance inland, rises gradually to a flat-top
range of considerable height, the S.E. shoulder of which, Mount Ozzaid, is
2,'l7-'> ft. high, and conspicuous from the S.E.

The soundings in this arm vary from 4 to 8 fathoms, and there is secure .ind
well-sheltered anchorage from 1 mile inside the entrance to the head.

Shelter Islands, upwards of half a mile S.E. of the entrance of Ucluelet
Arm, are an irregular cluster of small islets and rocks, about a mile long in a
N.W. and S.E. direction, and 3 cables wide, which completely shelter the ar'n
from the sea. Centre Reef, 3 cables westward of their northern part, is of small
extent, and about 3 ft. above high water.

Carolina Channel, West of Centre Keef, between it and Amphitrite Point,
the S.W. point of entrance to Barclay Sound, is the westernmost passage into
the latter and Ucluelet Arm. This channel appears to be the best for a stranger
to use if entering Ucluelet Arm from seaward.

Leading Point, on the South side of Ucluelet Arm, G cables within the
entrance, is bold and steep-to, and here the breadth of the arm contracts to a
cable. Stewart Buj, on the North side, half a mile within the entrance, is 2

CLAYOQUOT SOTTM,

cnWc.s,Iooi,,nn,nmIfamiIcwic]p r •* ' '''»

""^-t 2 .nilcs within the ent.- " and t" , *'^'' '" '""^ '"'''<"'^ "f t X.
il'crc nre several channels Inn,!- " '"'^'^ ^^'''<-'-

The Coast from An.pl.itrito J.„i„t takoV u" ? '" '°"'*'* ?''"»•
to Point Cox. It is Jo,,, „„,, .„; "' ^^^^« " ^V. by N. direction for iT ^n

o -oay, 8 miles westward nf \ i • •
-CIS ofa mi,e deep, with ;: ^ ^f^' 'T' " ^ '"'^^ -^^^. -^ "P-
iJ-ore are several rocks and shoal wat wi "I '""^" *'^° -'-«- VolZ
chor hero. ^.,,„„,, ^^, the N W " ' ' ""' "« ^--^'J ought to '
shelter to a sn.all vessel. ''•'' ' ^'•^'^ «^ ^he bav, ,,,,j .^d Jd

Portland Point tho iv w .

Z:r'r° ''■'■''■ '""■ "-r ;:,::;- «"-^^ ..*. .t:

° „'" '"S'' »■»'«■■ Tl.cy oiiBl.l not ,„ I "■ ''°"' ™'' from 10 to 15 r,

.l.cr W. by N. J N. 21 „ile,, n„a i. Ji to. » "■,' °f '' '»""'S f™. col
i-o-nd. .„d 06 „,i,o, w.X.VV. fromcw p,l 'v ' ''■ ''>' ^- fr™ «"chv
,t t ■""> ""= -nor w».or. of rhfeToJ" 7"°"!"°"'°- ■''■— -ovS

irr 'T °"^"* '"" '° '« "'-pwy ««;;:'"' "■" ''«""■■»» »f ^4

■it 18 high water in f'ln„„ ^ c- ^ ''irnngcr. ^

<■»" bci„/.bo,;;; ""^°^"°' ^"""^•«" -■'"'«■"' =--,0, „ „,, .,.„ „,„„„^

, •■<'WICOX,.tth„S.E.ox.„„o.ff,,

bo «,,p,.„„„|,ed ,„ k„,f „ ,„„,. A "rAa^"'""' ''"'"''■ '■' ■■"^y. »nd ma,

Ia.np,„ Ctanel, „,„ i,.^ ^e^ r,??""''''''™'' f'"". .ho »«I "'
•ul« on ll,c Ka„, .„j j, ,,-7 ° "'""'' bolown I,„„. ]>„,

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420

VAN'COUVER ISLAND.

nttcnipt to enter tliis sound by this chnnnci, nnd not even then without n pilot,
oa it is very intricate, and no dircctioutt can be given. lu heavy weather tho
•ea breaks ri^lit across.

Broken Channel, between Wakonnenish nnd Vargas Islnnds, to the west-
ward of the former, is upwards of 2 miles long in a northerly direction, and
half n mile wide in its narrowest part, with from G to 15 fathoms water.
Several rocks lie off its entrance, ond on both Hides. The tide runs through
from 2 to 5 knots, and no vessel ought to use it M-ithout a pilot. Mi Kay Itrrf,
lying off the entrance, 4 miles W. by N. from (.'ox Point, is of small extent,
and 5 to 10 ft. above high water ; the sen generally breaks heavily over it.
Two-thirds of a mile North of this reef is I'assaije Itock, which covers at high
water.

Vargas Island, on tho West side of Broken Channel, is 4i miles long, 1]
miles ot its broadest part, and its surface is low and undulating. On the
eastern side, near tho middle, is a native village called Kehemart ; and at half
a mile from tho South shore, running parallel to it, is a chain of small islets
and rocks, called the Hugged Group.

Ship Channel, to the westward of Vargas Island, between it nnd a number
of smoll islands nnd rocks, is the only passage into Clayoquot Sound rtliich
ought to be attempted by a stranger. Its enlraucu lies nearly 1 1 niik.s westward
of Cox Point, and the channel is o miles long in a N.N.E. direction, with a
breadth varying from three-cjuarters to 1 \ mile. The .soundings in the South
part vary from 20 to 22 fathoms, decreasing to .'Ji fathoms in the bhoalest jiarl
near the North end. The tide runs through it from 1 to 2 knot.s.

Dure Islet, at the S.E. entrance point of the channel, is .small, rising to a
summit 40 ft. high in the centre, and forms a good mark for identifying Ship
Channel. A rock, which breaks, lies 5 cables K. by S. from it, but there is 20
fathoms within half a mile of its S.W. side. Plover RecJ/iy on the I'last side of
the channel, half a mile N.W. of Pare Island, are of considerable extent,
stretching 1 mile from the West side of Plunden Island, and some parts are G
feet above high M'ater. Ilohls and Burgess Islel.s lie at the N.I']. ])nrt of the
channel, 2 cables from the West side of Vargas Island, and nearly connected
with it nt low water.

Scu Offer Rvch lies at the S.W. entrance point of Ship Channel, 2 miles
W. by N. from Pare Islet; it is very small, nnd only G ft. above high Avater.
Shark Reefs, some of which cover, others G ft. and 10 ft. above high water, lie
on the West side, 2 miles N.M. by N. of Sea Otter Iloek. They are about '6
cables in extent, and should not be approached nearer than 2 cables on their
South and Kast sides.

Lawrence Islets, on tho West side, nearly 3 miles from Sea Otter Eock, arc
small, low, nnd wooded. Jiartlctt Island, half a mile to the westward of
Lawrence Islets, is low and wooded ; its shores ore much broken, and ought

Iiout n pilot,
weather tho

io the wcst-
Tction, and
01118 wntcr.
ins through
^rh'mj lirrf,
lall extent,
ily over it.
in at higli

PS long, A \
?. On the
nnd at half
inmll isli'tH

1 a number
md >>l:ich
i westward
III, with a

the iSoutli
julest jiart

ising to a
ying Sliij)
liere is liO
ist side of
le extent,
rts are
rt of the
jonnectcd

, 2 miles
h water,
tvatcr, lie

about '6

on their

ock, arc
Lward of
d ought

CLAV0(iU0T SOUND.

not to be nppronchcd within half „ ■. , ''-'

«"^ ^'..nn.., are low and ^ ""'^- ^-- ^''""'^ "t the N.W. part of

. ^''*"'*« f »"age, to the N.J.; of „„,,

"■nor water, of the sound, is 3 m le r"""'"?: ""'" ''''"""^' -"' "'"
Wgasl«,„„d„,, the main shore V„Z;" "" ^^•"'- "'-''- •between
iJ.ee are several rocks on both its s "-""V"' "'"' "i'""^'''* "f " ".ile wide
to the southward of the b.nk I ?* "'"' " ""'"'■'^""'^ '" 'ts eentre V
^>"^;;H not iess r^XiJ^, ''' ^^^^ ^'^ ^ Va.,„, •':;,::

Jt'tiJ-lule Jiuc/i, o/r the S W

Va^«"«;^Ia„d.isofsma,i;xtcnt,':;;t^^^^ iWgo. „nd 2 cables from

to 1 cable on the out.ide. "'"^ "' ''""■^'-''. ""U .na, be approached

' "':/«« Mounluim, rising on <J,„ • ,

; ~: :::;t:::: rrr :^'^- - --,„ ,..,.,, ,. .,

"irougii It. Jlncale liaij 1 u^W. m , *-'"'*- '""S from 2 tii

» 0-. is « cables wide and . elbl'e ^ ''';?''/' ''"■^' '''-• "" the ^^,,

f--"r<«anger.„ndoneoftheb uti ""' ^"'» '-^ ^'^ >" ^^thoms. ,

ofaceess, and well ,s,.„tered. ' 1 ::^'" ^^■'''"■" ^'^ -'"d. being i;

«f b ver, eonvenient for w :: ^ " 7'"" "^ ^'■-'' -t- in the :., , ^

- ^ ^- 1..^. and bare. It i« ,. ,; ' : ,^-:-'^ ^^^^^ at its iV.., ,.,„,

Cypress Bay. on the main shore of V„ , ^•' '""^ '-^" ^«' ^'^ ' ^V".

l'a.s.s. IS nearly 2 miles in extent w tl f rr"'"' "'"' ' ""'^■•^ ^-tli of J,,,,,
"-'"-ge in 1. ,u,,,, „,^'^ ;^ ' ':'V' '-^ ^'^ '^'''-- There . g J
^"-"0- It is open to the Z^^^^Tl "' " ''^'"'" "^^""^ " ""''^ ^

^-s isi j; :;;i:;:t;:r ?t -' ------.i ; '^' ^"^

°»<> N-K. on Vargas l.and. ^ ^ ^ ^ :'^^''^"'^"- «'>'"»'. adjacent to
"" '^'^yy '^--tion. Its shores ejlt,;" v"""'"'^ ""^ ^ "'"- i
u..e and there are several sum/nio^hel-W Mv ''^" ""^^ ^'^«^' «"^
2.0 .) ft. above the sea ,- one on the latte en iV "' "'" "'"-'''-^ "^

h.gh. and very eonspieuous from seaward ,' r ''''^ ''""'■' ^^ ^"'•■^^ ''•

An extensive inlet runs nearly throug 1 i'l 'r;'"'™'^^^ "^ «'"1> C^'i-nel.
North, and there are several other 1 'ghts'.d " ''"-' '""^'' ^^^ to tho

on. North and «outh. and half a mdewil' ^l ''T' ''^ "'-' ^ '"Hes
to 20 fathoms. The tide runs from 2 to 5 •' t , '"^'"''"' '•'^""''"'^^ ^'"o"' -^
.trnnger «h la „ot attempt its naviga. '" ''""*>"' ^'''« ^^^--^ and a

^'•^^>i.«i^«y. on the N.W. side ofkires Island 2 m-,

'"'' ^ '"''^s eastward of Deep

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422

VANCOUVER ISLAND.

Pn««, i« n milo wide, linlf a milo dr p, nnd nffords nnchorngo in 5J to 10
fatlioms it 2 ciil)lcs off its eastern shore. Tlic Hliorcs of tho bay arc rocky, but
liavc no (iiitlylnf; danf;;cr8.

If wisliiny to anchor in Ilitchic Kay, and coming from Deep Pass, proceed to
the eastward so as to pass about 1 cable North of IJobcrt IVjint, and keei)ing
the same distance off the South shore, steer into the bay, anchoring in .1 or 7
fatlioms about 2 cables from its I'iast side, with the extremes bearing North
and H.W. 2 W. ; entering from the northward, Kteer midway between Suranao
Island and the North point of tho bay.

Tho North shore of Mearcs Island is low, nearly straight, and steep-to ; it
takes an K. by N. direction for nearly 4 miles, and then turns sharply to
the S.K.

Bedwell Sound, tho entrance to which is li mile West of Cypress Hay and
northward of Mcarcs Island, is 7 miles long in a northerly direction. The
shores are liigh and rugged, rising on the Mast side to sharp jagged peaks from
2,000 to 4,300 ft. above the sea. Jlacc Narrown, lOast of Ucdwell Sound,
between tho North side of AToares Island and the main, are li mile long, and
about 2 cables wide in the narrowest part. The tides run through them from
3 to 4 knoti. Warn lUiy, to tho eastward of Kacc Narrows, and 1 mile from
the N.K. part of Miares Island, is upwards of 2 miles long. The shores on
both sides are high, but low at the head, from whence issue several streams,
and a sand-bank dries out upwards of a cable.

Fortune Channel, between the East side of Mcarcs Island and the main, is

5 miles long, North and South, and varies in breadth from 3 cables to 1} mile;
its shores arc high, and tliere arc several off-lying rocks on its West side near
the middle. Tho souiulings vary from 30 to 7u fathoms.

Musauito Ildiliour, on the ]']ast side of Mcarcs Island, is narrow and about
2 miles long in a north-westerly direction. There arc several rocks and small
islets off its entrance, but it affords good ancliorage inside in from 1 to 7
fathoms. The entrance is li cable wide, with 11 fathoms, and the harbour is
well adapted for a steamer.

In entering Mosquito Harbour, round Plover Point at a cable's distance to
avoid Ilankin Hock, and keep midway between Wood Islands and the J'^a.st
shore, anchoring in about 7 fathoms, one-third of a mile South of JJiaekberry
Islets. A vessel may enter westward of Wood Islets by keeping midway
between them and the shore.

Bark Island, 7 cables South of Plover Point, on the West side of Fortune
Channel, is small. Some rocks extend a short distance off its West side, but
there is a clear passage between it and the West shore. Duuhle Inland,

6 cables South of Dark Island, is small and steep-to. There is 24 fathoms in
the passage between it and Mcarrs Island.

Deception Pass, at the South c.-treme of Fortune Channel, and connecting
it with Tofino Inlet nnd Browning Passage, is a winding channel to the S.S.E.

in 5} to 10
! rocky, but

I piocccd to
11(1 kct'pinjj
ig in 5 or 7
ring North
.'cu Suruuao

»tocp-to; it
bharpiy to

>us Day nnd
jtioii. The
peaks from
r-ell iSouiul,
e long, and
tlieni from
I mile from
! shores on
ral streams,

lie main, is
to 1.} mile;
it side near

' nnd about
s and .small
from •! to 7
harbour is

distance to
1 the J';ast
IJlaekbeny
ig midway

of Fortune
st side, but
hlv Ixluml,
fathoms in

connecting
the S.S.E.

C-UVOQUOT SOUND-TOFINO LM.eT.

about li mile !„„,,, „„,.., ., ^^^•^'^' m

n am hland, nearly 1 mile N' , T, ^"'"' '*'•^^'•
'"''-•' i-t within the out am '-^ "V"'*"" ''''^^< offtho W.» ,,,, ,.„

^>'th from « to 10 fathoms i„ the middo ^''""'^' " "^ «"'"» extent

//-•^;.«-. on „ West side of t c h ,1 ' '"; V"'"^''*-"^"^ '""'^'-'^'''J- ^"2;

it« WestThlitare si^,.'?! ^'',' 'T'''^ '^^ ^''"^ '»'<-''. «"'! 2^ cables f.

0"ble'8distanccfro--' V ^''"'' «nle, there bein.^ 47 1? "*

^"' '^•"'"'- Northward nffiw •■ "f^ ^' '"thonis at a

»ortt 0ha„„el, to „,„ ,,„ °''"'

'" •■»»« 1*=.^. to 3,000 ft. lie r ■ "' '"»■'' '>" "'0 ;io.lh and West ! "•'
f^outh extreme of Florcs, is cliffv „ i . '"'^''- ^'V«*^ /'o.«/ fl

o«fo„a . .u» . ,, „..i .„; 2;; ,: ,:tr "*'• ^»"° ~

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434

VANCOUVER ISLAND.

N.N.W., and contiimcs in 'i;it diroctiou for 7 miles, being indented by sevoval
«nmll bay*'

byux^ey Inlet, at the West end of Clayoquot Sound, is 10 miles long in a
N.W. by N, direction, and varies in breadth from hnlf a mile to 1 mile. Its
cnlrnnco is 3J miles N.W. by N, from Eafael Point, between the West side
of Flores Island and the main of Vancouver. At 4 miles from the head are
tno small branches about 2 mile? in length, one cxI ending North, the other
S.W. The sliorcs arc high and rugged, rising abruptly from the sea to 2,000
and 3,000 ft. The depth in the entrance is 15 fathoms, increasing graduiilly
towards the head, and tliero is no anchorage. Sharp Point, the S.W. point
of cntrauco to Sydney Inlet and S.W. extreme of Clayoquot Sound, is low and
rocky, and may be jipproachcd to a cable's distance.

Refuge Cove is just West of Sharp Point, and separated from Sydney Inlet
by a narrow peninsula. It runs in 1 J milo in a N.N.W. direction, is from
1 to 2 cables wide, and affords good anchorage in 4 to 5 fathoms at half a milo
within the entrance, well sheltered and secure from all winds, though appa-
rently open to the S.S.K. ; the entrance, though narrow, is clear of danger,
with the exception of a rock, with 7 ft. water, nearly 2 cables N.N.W. of
Sharp Point. Canoe Beef, lying just S.W. of the entrance, and three-quarters
of a milo westward of Sharp Point, is 2 ft. above high water, but steep-to on
the South and West sides. A sailing vessel, if embayed near this part of the
coast, would find safety and shelter in itcfugo Cuve. It can be entered by
steering for Sharp Point, bearing N.AN''. by N. .} N. ; pass a cable West of the
point, and then keep close to the eastern shore, and anchor in about 5 fiilhonis,

7 or 8 cables within the entrance.

Shelter Arm branches off from the East side of Sydney Inlet to the N.E.,
along the North side of Flores Island for 5 miles, and then takes a N,E. by N.
direction into the land for nearly the same distance, terminating in a narrow
crock at the head. It is upwards of half a mile wide, 10 miles long, and the
soundings vary from 40 to 90 fathoms in the South part. There is only one
indifferent anchorage in it, just 2 miles within the entrance on the North aide
of I'lores Island, in a small jjlaeo named Steamer Cove. The shores of Shelter
Aim are high, ^.rccipitous, and steep-to. The tide runs from 1 to 2 knots
tlirougli it, the Hood stream from the westward.

Obstruction Island, on the East side of Shelter Arm, and separated from the
North point of Flores Island by a narrow pass, is about 2 miles in extent, and
700 ft. high. Its shares are rocky and broken. Itochj I'nxs, on its Soutli side,
is narrow, about IJ mile long, and filled with rocks, so that no vessel could
get through it.

North Arm, between the East side of Flores Island and the main, is about

8 miles long in a S.E. by S. direction, and its breadth is nearly 1 mile. Its
shores arc high in the South part, but decrease gradually to the southwar'l, A
vessel may anchor in 5 to 8 fathoms abreast Base Point.

N.E.,

..yN.
narrow

d tlio
ly one
til side
Shelter

kuots

om the
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about
10. Its
lav'i, A

CLAYOQUOT SOUND-HESQUIAT HARBOUR.

Matilda Cove, on the West side of North Arm, abreast the entrance to
Herbert Ann, is a very narrow creek. IJ mile long in a S.S.E. direction, but
useless as an anchorage. Bane Point, the S.W. entrance point to North Arm,
is low and sandy, and there is from 2 to 3 fathoms at a cable'.s distance from it.

Herbert Arm, the entrance to which is on the East side of North Arm,
about 2 miles from the South entrance of the latter, is 9 rniles long in a
northerly direction, and its average breadth is about I mile. The shores are
hi^li, mountainous, and much broken ; and there is no anchorage cicept at the
South part of its entrance. Cone hland, lying at the entrance of this arm, is
about 1 mile in extent, 1,000 ft. high, and stecp-to on the South and West
sides, but the poiisage into Heibert Arm North of it is blocked up by rocks and
small islets. Bawden Bay, on the South side of e\\trauce of Herbert Arm, and
about li mile S.E. of Cone Island, is of small extent, and affords anchorage in
1.5 fathoms, near the centre; enter it in mid-ohanuel. White Pine Cove, on
the East side of Herbert Arm, nearly 3 miles from the entrance, is small, with
a bank running off the head; a small vessel may anchor close to the edge of
this bank in about 10 fathoms.

DIRECTIONS.— Entering Clayoquot Sound by Ship Channel (which latter
will bo easily recognised by Baro Islet, Sea Otter IS.ock, and a remarkable
summit inland, the Lone Cone), round either Bare Islet or Sea Otter Hock at
the distance of half a mile, and steer up the channel with the Twins Islands in
lino with the North summit of the Cat-face Mountains, bearing N.E. by N. I N.
Keep the above-mentioned mark on till within half a mile of Shark Reefs,
when haul more to the eastwai'd for the "West extreme of Vargas Island,
which may be rounded at a distance of 3 cables. If going on through
Hecate Passage (page 421) into Hecate Bay, to clear Half -tide Rock keep
Ilobbs Islet open West of Burgess Islet S. by W. J W. until the Twins coino
in line with tho West Whaler Island AV. by S., when steer up the passage
with that mark on astern, which will lead North of Half-tide Rock and South
of the North Bank. When past tho latter, steer through Deep Pass, and
anchor in Ileoalo Bay midway between its cntrnnce points in ft or 10 fathoms.

During heavy south-westerly gales the sea is said to break right across Sliip
Channel, betwcsen Lawrence and Hobbs Islands.

Although there are several apparently deep channels into Clayoquot Sound
they arc, with the exception of Ship Channel, so tortuous, and filled with rooks,
that no stranger should attempt to cnti,r by any except the latter. If intending
to navigate the inner waters of the sound, which can only be done by a steamer
or small craft, the chart will be found the best guide.

HESftUIAT HARBOUR, 8 miles westward of the West part of Clayoquot

Sound, is formed at the bottom of the bay on the East side of Estevan Point.

It is 4 miles long in a. N.N.W. direction, and its breadth at the entrance ia

upwards of 2 miles, opening out a little inside, but on ncaring tlie Lead it

North Pacific. 3 I

i\ K

KM:

I 'It"

420

VANCOUVER ISLAND.

contracts to less than a mile. The soundings within the harbour vary from
4 to 9 fathoms, and there is a good secure anchorage in 7 or 8 fathoms at the
distance of half a mile from the head. Across the entrance, between Hesquiat
Bluff and Estevan Point, is a sort of bar or lodge, about 3 cables wide with
3 to 4 fathoms water over it, which in a great measure prevents the sea from
setting homo into the harbour. Kelp grows more or less all over the anchorage
in a depth of 5 fathoms.

Hesquiat Bluff, the East entnnce point of the harbour, is a remarkable low
wooded point with a shingle beach around it ; a reef, which covers at a quarter
flood, lies half a mile S.W. of it.

The shores of the harbour arc generally low and wooded, and within the
entrance at a distance of 2 cables clear of danger. At the head on the East
side is Boat Basin, a small cove with 4 fathoms. There is a large fresh-water
stream there, and vessels may wood and water with great facility. On the
West side of the bay near Estevan Point are several indications of coal, and
-the land is apparently fertile. The natives though friendly are much inclined
to pilfering, and should bo carefully watched.

Directions. — IIes([uiat Harbour is easy of access to sailing vessels even
with a foul wind. In entering either from the East or West, give the outer
shores of the harbour a berth of more than half a mile, till past tlie bar, after
which they may be approached to 2 cables; anchor in 7 or 8 fathoms near the
centre of the harbour, about half a mile from the head. Leadiny Mountain,
at the head of the harbour, and 2,720 ft. high, if brought to bear N. by
W. I W., will lead across the bar clear of dangers, but over a small spot of
■ 3 fathoms.

In strong South or south-westerly gales the sea breaks heavily over the bar,
but the anchorage is always safe, and landing is at all times practicable in
Boat Basin.

ESTEVAN POINT, 14 miles W. t N. from Rafael Point, and 02 miles
W. by N. i N. from Cape Flattery, is a low wooded and projecting j)oiiit. A
rocky ledge a mile wide extends nearly 1 mile off its S.W. side ; and \\ mile
off shore, and nearly 3 miles West of the pitch of the point, is Sunday Hock,
so that in rounding the West part of Estevan Point, it would not be prudent
to approach the shore within 2 miles. IJole in the Wall, the South part of
the point, may bo easily known by a remarkable gap in the trees at its ex-
treme, which is cons2)icuous from the S.W.

Prom the western part of Estevan Point the coast takes a N.N.W. direction
for 8 miles to Escalante Point at tho entrance of Nootka Sound, being low,
mid foul ground exists off it for some distance.

NOOTKA SOUND.— This celebrated place was, until 1789, supposed to be
on the continent of America, but the discovery of its insular character deprived
it of the great importance previously attached to it.

It was named by Captain Cook, who came hither in his last and disastrous

•Ofihil
t'lo Introdf
8omo Spaiij
t Tho 4
'Jve of tho
her Supercl
f^"Pt. Nathl
John Atoiircl

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vcd

NOOTKA SOUND. '

TOjvigo, Kniff Gcorffe's Soutul, but he afterwards found lliat it was called
Nootka by the natives, and hence bj' that name it has ever since been known.
It is stated, however, that no word more nearly resembling Nootka than
Yukuad, or Ynquot, the name applied to Friendly Cove, has since been found.

It communicates with the Pacific by two openings, the southern one of which
is probably the Port San Lorenzo, in which the Spanish navigator. Ensign
Juan Perez, was, with his ship, the Santtayo, on August 10th, 1774 (St. Law-
rence's day). He had been despatched by the Mexican viceroy to survey and
take possession of these lands.*

Cook had heard that a Spanish expedition had been hither, and the foregoing
fact was confirmed by the former purchasing from the natives two silver table-
spoons apparently of Spanish make, one of which was worn as an ornament,
and hau probably been stolen from the Santiago,

From the accounts contained in Cook's voyage of the fut's ptbtSurcd here,
several A"essels were fitted out from the East Indies to take advantage of the
enormous profits they afforded. The earliest of these appears to be that of
James Ilanna, an Englishman, under Portuguese colours, who reached Nootka
in April, 1785. He repeated the voyage in 1786, but then he 1'ad to compete
with others, Capts. Lowrie and Guise, in two small vessels from Bombay, and
Capts. Meares and Tipping from Calcutta, all under the East India Com-
pany.f

It was in the prosecution of this trade that Capt. Meares stated that he had
purchased a tract for the erection of a house and factoi-y in Nootka Sound,
Avhich subsequently led to very serious results. The Spaniards had claimed,
by right of a papal bull, dated 1493, the whole of these countries, and also by
the subsequent right by discovery ; but they had not erected any fort, or in
any other way taken possession of it. In consequence of the orders, or the
misunderstanding of them, from the Spanish government, the fy/tii/emn was
taken possession of by I'lstevau Martinez, who had accompanied Perez in 1774,
and who had been sent hither to assert and maintain this claim. The
Argonaut, under Capt. Colnett, was subsequently seized, and the captain sent
a prisoner to San lilas, he suffering from delirium or insanity in consequence.
From this and other matters the respective governments warmly took up the
cause, and the consequences were some warlike prcj)arations, which cost
England three millions sterling, but which were quieted by the Nootka Con-

* Of this voyage no nccount iippenrcJ until ISO'J, whon a short notice of it was given in
the Introduction to the Journal of tho Sudl and Mixicana. A more porfoot notice from
gome Spanish MSS. will bo found in Grccahow's History of Oregon, &c., pngos 114—110.

\ Tho accounts of theso fur trades between 178') and ITSv) will bo found in the Narni-
tive of the Voyage of the Ship Qitfrii Charloltf, by her Captain, John Dixon, or rathor by
her Supercargo, Beresford ; the Narrative of Iho Voyago of tho Ship A'iinj O'lViyi; by
Capt. Nathaniel I'ortlock; and tho Narrative, b' foro (juoted, of tlio Voyages of Capt,
John Moares,

■'» r.:

WWW*'*«V*MIK^

jj;

428

VANCOUVER ISLAND.

vcnli'on of October, 1790, by which the South Sens were opened to British
enterprise. The preparation of these fleets, however, was not without some
results. They did good service afterwards, as Lord Howe's victory was gained
by them four years later.

Vancouver was subsequently sent to recover possession of these lands, but
did not then succeed as he intended, the Spaniards having erected a fort here,
and the possession still remained undecided. In 1818, Spain concluded a
treaty with America, in which she ceded all her possessions South of lat.
42° N. to the former power, leaving the northern part as it had been. This
convention was renewed in 1827, and the whole question was definitively
settled by the Oregon treaty of 1846.

The first who more minutely examined this important inlet was our great
circumnavigator, Cook. Sir Edward Belcher visited and surveyed a part of it
in 1839, and it was completely examined by Capt. G. H. Richards, in II.M.S.
Plumper, in 1 862. The following is from the Vancouver Island Pilot by that
officer.

Nootha Sound is a large sheet of water upwards of 6 miles in extent, con-
taining several islands, and from its North side three long narrow arms pene-
trate the land for distances of 18, 7, and 14 miles respectively. Its entrance
is between Maquinna and Escalantc Points, W. by N. J N. and E. by S. ^ S.
from each other and distant 4 miles ; at the entrance the shores are low, and
have several off-lying dangers, but within they become high, rugged, and pre-
cipitous, and fue everywhere free from danger.

The soundings at the entrance vary from 40 to GO fathoms, deepening
within the sound to upwards of 100 fathoms in many places; to the southward
of the entrance, and extending 6 miles West of Estevan and Escalante Points,
is a bank of 22 to 30 fathoms water, deepening gradually to the S.W. In the
vicinity of Bajo Reef, and to the westward oi it, there is 20 to 27 fathoms ;
but at a distance of 7 miles South of Nootka Island 40 to 60 fathoms will be
found. In fine weather the natives will be met with in canoes, in considerable
numbers, on these banks, fishing for halibut, which is very plentiful along
this coast.

There are four good anchorages in the sound, two of which. Friendly Cove
and Plumper Harbour on the East side of Nootka Island, are small, though
easy of access to steamers ; the former is 1 and tlio latter 7 miles within the
entrance ; the others in the Thipana Arm, though well sheltered, are more in-
convenient, being 13 and 16 miles from the entrance.

From seaward the appearance of the land near the entrance of the sound
offers to the navigator many striking features, which in fine weather render it
almost impossible to be mistaken. The low land of Estevan and Maquinna
Points nt the entrance, with the breakers off them, Nootka Cone, 1,G19 ft.
high, Rt the East point of Nootka Island, and if coming from the South or

«i p.

!■ ^Il ^

NOOTKA SOUND— FRIENDLY COVE.

429

S.S.W., Conuina Peak, a rcmnrkable stccple-shaped mountain, nearly 5,000 ft.
higli, is a most conspicuous feature.

Tides. — It is high water in Nootka Sound, on full and change, at 12'", and
the rise and fall is about 12 ft. The tidal streams are everywhere incon-
siderable.

ESCALANTE POINT, the East point of entrance of the sound, is low and
rocky ; some islets, and rocks generally above high water, extend off it in a
westerly direction for upwards of a mile. From Escalantc Point to Lurdwood
Point, at the narrowest part of the entrance on the East side, the coast, which
still keeps a N.N.W. direction for 3 miles, is bordered by several off-lying
rocks.

MAftUINNA POINT, the West entrance point of the sound, is 11 miles
N.W. of the western p.'irt of Estevan Point, and 4 miles W. by N. i N. from
Escalantc Point ; it is low and wooded, and at its extreme is a remarkable bare-
topped conical rock, about GO or 70 ft. high; some rocks extend 3 cables off it
in an easterly direction, also along the coast from it to tb.e eastward nearly as
far ns the entrance of Friendly Cove, and the shore ought not to be approached
nearer ihan three-quarters of a nii?.T till near the latter place.

Bajo Reef. 6 miles S.W. by W. J W. from Maquinna Point, and 2^ miles
S.S.E. of Bajo Point, is about 2 cables in extent, and only breaks in heavy
weather. This reef is the only hidden danger outside the sound, and is dan-
gerous to vessels entering it from the westward. Yuquot lY'int, the East ex-
treme of Nootka Island, kept open eastward of Maquinna Point, and bearing
N.E. I E., clears its S.E. side by 1^- mile.

FRIENDLY COVE, at the East extreme of Nootka Island, just within the
narrowest part of the entrance to tiiG sound, and about 2^ miles N.E. of Ma-
quinna Point, is about 2 cables in extent, and slielterod from the sea by a small
rocky high-wafer island on its East side. The entrance to it is from the N.E.,
ond a cable wide, and the anchorage within is in from 5 to 'J fathoms, of small
extent, affording room only for one vessel of moderate size to lie moored in the
middle, though several small ones would find shelter. The shores on both sides
of the cove are rocky, and about GO ft. high on the North side, but at the head
is a small space of clear cultivated flat land, around which in the summer the
natives build an extensive village.

If desiring to anchor in this cove, round Obscrvatoiy Islet, the East entrance
point, close to, and if in a large vessel moor with anchors S.S.W. and N.N.1'<.,
letting go the first immediately on entering the cove. Sailing vessels, unless
with a fair wind, would find some difficulty in entering ; and if unable to shoot
in, it would be preferable to warp or proceed farther up the sound to Plumper
Harbour.

When the Spaniards were in possession of this coast in 1792, Friendly Cove
was their principal establishment ; and when Capt. Vancouver visited it in that
year, no less than eight vessels were in it, most of them small, and secured to

if.' t.-

480

VANCOUVER ISLAND.

the shore by hawsers. At the present date no vestige whatever of the settle-
ment remains.

No fresh wnter in any quantity can be procured at Friendly Cove, or nearer
than Marvinas Bay ; but fish and deer may generally be obtained in large quau-
titles froiii the natives.

The West shore of the sound from Friendly Cove runs in a N.N.W. direc-
tion for about 6 miles to the entrance of Kcndrick Arm and Tah-sis Canal ; it
is rocky, and some islets run parallel to it. There arc two small creeks, with
entrances, too narrow for a vessel to enter. The northernmost of them, called
by the Spaniards Boca del Inlerno, lies abreast the North part of the above-
mentioned islands, and 1| mile from Friendly Cove.

Marvinas Bay, 4 miles N.N.W. from Friendly Cove, on the East side of
Nootka Island, is of small extent, and open to the southward ; it only affords
anchorage to a coaster, but there is a large fresh-water stream at the head and
just South of it, convenient for watering.

Eendrick Arm, at the West end of Nootka Sound between Nootka and
Narrow Islands, is about 5 miles long in a north-westerly direction, and half a
mile wide, connected at the North part by a narrow boat pass to the Tah-sis
Canal ; on the West side, 1 mile from its South part, is Plumper Harbour, ea.sy
of access, and well sheltered. Northward of this harbour the shores of the arm
on both sides are rocky, terminating in two narrow creeks at the head, useless
for purposes of navigation.

PLUMPER HARBOUR, on the West side of Kcndrick Arm, and G miles
from Friendly Cove, is a small bay indenting the East side of Nootka Island,
about 3 cables in extent, and affording good anchorage in 12 fathoms. It is
protected on the East side by two small wooded islets from 30 to 10 ft. high ;
on the West side the shore is rather swampy, and there are several fresh- water
streams.

There is a clear passage into the harbour between the two islets, or to the
northward of the North one, which may be rounded at a cable, and there is
room for a vessel to lie at single anchor inside ; it is the best anchorage in the
sound, the only drawback being its distance from the cntiancc.

Tah->is Canal, the entrance to which is at the N.W. part of Nootka Sound
about G miles from Friendly Cove, is a long narrow arm of the sea, nearly
straight, and 14 miles long in a N.W. by N. direction; the shores are moun-
tainous, rocky, and steep-to, and there is no anchorage within it.

Bligh Island, lying in the centre of the sound, is the largest island within
it, being about 4 miles long in a northerly direction, and 2 miles wide in tlio
northern part; its shores arc rocky, and indented by some creeks on the
southern side. Its South extreme is a long narrow point, about 3 miles N.E.
of the entrance of the sound, and off its South and West sides are a number of
islands extending upwards of a mile from it, all steep-to on their outer edges,

NOOrjCA SOUND-TLUPANA ARM
but among which no vessel «}.„, . 7 431

'» M f«<l.«m,, about „ Jtw,™ „; ;"TT''' °"'' "" ■"" ""*o™ge i, fc „
Vessel, „,„y .,,„ ,„^.^„^ /w" '"'''= «■»"' "- *™m ftlling inifi,; " ','

Deserted CVeek in ,■> f „ ""'• O" «'» North shore „f ,i "''•

rr , „ '""'ems. on the Wnct -j „ ***^ '"« eutrauco of

s.e.s o» the North si* of it, eutrL" M. ""? "*• ™* «"« very W

".0 coast „orth,v.r. of""""'' ^"''-^ "^ «'«'"% P-pe„dio„t C;^
Jl.emount.iMa,th„rf„|

""ics .^.i<,. from the head is 4 sso ^ . • , "' ^"'"'otw iVo/. ,- . '

I T_ il ' .^

In the second volume cf *t, —

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VANCOUVEIUSLANU.

432 «,v;rh wiU be easily

Lrd otlhe former 1 mclior m ii

'^«*- • . . anchor i«n,»n>ro .„cbor.go,-i.WnTlup.«A«..

Should it be desired to irnchor m any ^re necessary.

WcringNootta sound ftomtk^^ „M,i„ 4 mto, or •>"" '" '^\(

'^»"° ""'VSnE 1 'i. "Mol> «m c'- »* ''t ; ;r-*i '"^

^r X.oin., and U ^^'^^!;'^^^, .tljo Po«. ««d . aWn. 1 »de
inlwd.

Mil

NUCIIATLITZ INLET.

433

test

rtUo

liles to
Cone,
\\ mile

NUCHATLITZ INLET, oa tho N.W. side of Xootka Islaiul, about 18 milua
W. by N. J N. from the entrance of Nootka Sound, is 6 miles long in a north-
easterly direction, and 3 miles wide at the entrance, narrowing towards the
head. Its shores are high and rocky, and much broken into creeks and small
bays. Off the entrance and within arc several dangers, niiiking it advisable for
strangers not to attempt to enter without a pilot. Ferrer Point, the South
entrance point of tho inlet, is low and rocky ; just within the point to the east-
ward is a very remarkable conical summit, 350 ft. high, called the North-west
Cone, which is of great use in making out this locality from the westward.

Da'.yer Hock, lying in the South part of the entrance, upwards of a mile
N.W. i W. from Ferrer Point, is the worst danger in entering, as it is of very
small extent, and only breaks in heavy weather ; it is steep-to on all sides,
there being 1 1 fathoms close to it. The best passage into the inlet is between
this rock and Ferrer Point. Nuchatlitz Reef, in the centre of the entrance,
and a third of a mile North of Danger llock, is about three-quarters of a mile
long E.N.E. and W.S.W., generally breaks, and at its inner extremity is a
small rock, awash at high water ; there is a clear deep passage between it and
Danger Rock, but it ought not to be attempted by a stranger. South Rcif,
which lies just within the entrance on the South side, is 1 mile N.E. by N.
from Ferrer Point, and about 3 cables off shore ; it is nearly 2 cables in extent,
and covers at half flood.

Fitz Island, in the centre of the inlet, and 3 miles from the entrance, is of
small extent, low, rugged, and covered with a few stunted pine trees, the tops
of which are about 100 ft. above the sea. At half a mile West of it is a small
bare rock 20 ft. high, and steep-to on the West side, but between the rock and
Fitz Island foul ground exists. Mary Basin, the termination of this inlet, is
of considerable extent, and completely landlocked by Lord Island, which lies
across the inlet at the S.W. part of the basin ; it has not been sufliciently ex-
amined to recommend its being used by a stranger.

Fort Lanyford, on the North side of Nuchatlitz Inlet, 2 miles within the
entrance, is about If mile long in a northerly direction, and varies in breadth
from a quarter to 1 mile. The soundings in it vary from 5 to 8 fathoms, and
it affords a secure and well sheltered anchorage at the distance of half a mile
from the head. Within the entrance it is clear of danger. Colwood Islet,
at the S.W. extreme of the entrance, is small and bare, 20 ft. above water.

Sirections. — Entering Nuchatlitz Inlet from the southward, bring Ferrer
Point on a N. by W. bearing, and steer to pass half a mile West of it ; and
when Mark Hill, at the head of the inlet, comes on with the North part of
Fitz Island, N.E. ^ E., haul in for the entrance on that mark, which will lead
in clear of Danger Kock. When Ferrer Point bears South, a vessel will be
inside the rock, and may steer N. by E. J E., or N.N.E., for the entrance to
Port Langford ; pass midway between Colwood Islet and Belmont Point, and
North Facific. 3 Jt

434

VANCOUVER ISLAND.

'! '1.

proceed up tbe port in mid-channel, anchoring in 5 or C fulhuius, mud, at a
distance of half a mile from the head.

Approaching the port from the westward, keep an offing of 4 or 5 miles, till
Ferrer Point bears East, when steer for it on that bearing till the leading mark
for the channel comes on, Mark Hill in line with the North part of Fitz Island
N.E. i E., when proceed as before directed.

No vessel of any size should attempt to beat into this inlet, as there is gene-
rally a heavy sea at the entrance, and no stranger should attempt to enter un-
less the leading mark is well made out.

ESPEBANZA INLET, the entrance of which lies between the N.W. side of
Nootka Island and the main of Vancouver, at 122 miles W. by N. ^ N. from
Cape Flattery lighthouse, is about 16 miles long in a winding north-easterly
direction, and its average breadth is about I mile, narrowing at the head,
which is connected by a narrow pass, Tah-sis Narrows, to the Tah-sis Canal in
Nootka Sound.

The entrance, though wide, contains several dangers ; but within the shores
are nearly everywhere steep-to, rising on both sides to mountains of consider-
able height. The southern shore is indented by three bays of moderate ex-
tent, which, however, afford no anchorage ; and from the northern one three
arms of considerable length j)enetrate the Vancouver shore for several miles in
a N.N.W. direction. In the western arm, named Port Eliza, is the only an-
chorage within the inlet.

The soundings in the entrance vary from 12 to 20 fathoms, deepening within
to upwards of 100 fathoms in many parts.

Middle Channel, the widest and best into Esperanza Inlet, is 3 miles long
in a northerly direction, and upwards of a mile wide in the narrowest part. Its
entrance lies 3 miles W.N.W. from Fcrr3r Point. The West side is clear,
except at the South part, where lies Middi^ Beef, a part of which is always
above water.

£lind Reef, which lies at the S.E. extreme of the channel, and 3 miles
N.W. ^ W. from Ferrer Point, is about 2 cables in extent, and only breaks in
bad weather. A small rock lies a cable northward of it. Needle Rock, which
is of small extent, lies two-thirds of a mile North of Middle Reef, and has from
14 to 15 fathoms at a distance of 2 cables West of it. Middle Reef, at the
S.W. entrance point of Middle Channel, and separating it from North Channel,
generally breaks, and at its South extreme is a small rock, 4 ft. above high
water, lying 4 miles N.W. by W. J W. from Ferrer Point.

Loiu Rock, 6 ft. above high water, is the outermost of the dangers off
Catala Island, and lies nearly a mile due West of Middle Reef. To the
N.N.E. of it are several other rocks and dangers. Black Rock, 20 ft. above
high water, one-third of a mile eastward of the East point of Catala Island,
should not be approached nearer than 2 cables.

North Channel leads into Esperanza Inlet West of Middle Reef, between

N.J
its I
15

pass
widj
the
Soutl

ESPERANZA INLET-PORT ELIZA.

485

h nnd the dangers off the S.E. point of Catala Island. It is about a third of n
mile wide, and upwards of 2 miles long, merging at the North part into ^liddlo
Channel. The soundings in it vary from 17 to 22 fathoms, and the danger! on
its West side are nearly all above water.

Catala Island, 5 J miles N.^^ i W. from Ferrer Point, on the West side
of the entrance to Esperanza Inlet, is about If mile long, in a westerly direc-
tion, and a mile wide in its broadest part. This island is wooded, and from
l;")() to 200 ft. high ; its shores are rocky, and several dangers exist at a con-
siderable distance off it on all sides. Its North side is separated from the Van-
couver shore by a passage half a mile wide, named Rolling Roadstead, and a
vessel may find a tolerably secure anchorage there in from 4 to 6 fathoms,
though generally a swell prevails in it.

Rolling Roadstead. — Entrance Reef, about 3 cables North of the East point
of Catala Island, at the eastern part of Rolling Roadstead, is of small extent,
and covers at half flood. At half a mile North of it, and about 2 cables off tbo
opposite shore, lies Arnold Rock, which is awash at high water. Half a mile
inshore, and overlooking the N.E. part of Rolling Roadstead, Is Leading Moun-
tain, 1,101 ft. above the sea. It is of conical shape, and couipicuous from the
entrance of Middle Channel.

Double Island lies half a mile off the West shore at the inner and narrowest
part of the entrance to Esperanza Inlet, and 3i miles within the outer part of
the North and Middle Channels. It is of small extent, and wooded. Flower
Islet, on the opposite shore, 1 mile E.S.E. of Double Island, and half a milo
off the N.W. point of Nootka Island, is small and bare, and the northernmost
of the islets off Nootka Island between the entrances of Nuchatlitz and Espe-
ranza Inlets. At 2 cables S.W. of it is a small rock 2 ft. above high water.

Hecate Channel, near the head of the inlet, is 5 miles long in a winding
direction to the eastward, and its average breadth is about 6 cables. The
western end is 8 miles from the entrance of Esperanza Inlet ; and the eastern
end, named Tah-sis Narrows, is about a cable wide, with 28 fathoms, and coa-
nects this channel with the Tah-sis Canal in Nootka Sound. The shores ar«
liigh and rocky, and may be approached close-to.

Port Eliza, the entrance to which is on the North side of the inlet, 1 milo
N.E. of Double Island, is a narrow arm b^ miles long in a N.W. din ction, and
its breadth varies from 2 to 4 cables. There is good anchorage in from 14 to
15 fathoms at the distance of half a mile from the head, which terminates iu a
small patch of low swampy land.

Harbour Island, in the centre of the entrance, is of moderate height. The
passage into Port Eliza on its East side, through Birthday Channel, is 2 cables
wide in the narrowest part, and clear of danger. Between Harbour Island and
the West shore lies False Channel, which has irregular soundings, and in its
South part are two roclrs which cover at half flood. Channel Reef, half a mile

'■:•>

. !plif:'»lp'ini<i

436

VAN'COUVEU IST-AND.

N.N.W. of Ilnrbour Island, in the middle of Port Eliza, is about a cable in
extent, and covers at thrcc-ciunrters flood.

Queen's Cove, on the East side of the port, about 1 J mile from the entrance,
is 4 cables long and 2 cables wide, with from 6 to 7 fathoms water, and atfonls
room for a large vessel to lie moored in the centre. Its shores are high and
rocky. The cove is completely landlocked, and only half a cable wide at the
entrance.

Eipinoza Arm, the entrance to which is 2 miles N.E. of Port Eliza, is 8
miles long in a N.N.W. direction, and its average breadth is half a mile. The
soundings within it are deep, and it affords no anchorage ; at the entrance on
the West side are some small islets, and a rock which uncovers.

Zeballos Arm, the entrance to which lies 10 miles within the inlet, at the
West end of Hecate Channel, is about 6 miles long in a winding direction to
the N.W., and about two-thirds of a mile wide. Similar to Espinoza Arm, it
offers no anchorage whatever, and is of no use to the navigator.

Sirections. — A stranger entering Esperanza Inlet from the southward,
through Middle Channel, and intending to anchor in Port Eliza, should pass
Ferrer Point at a distance of about 3 miles, and keep on a northerly course till
nearing the entrance of Middle Channel, when steer to bring Leading Hill in
line wi»h Black llock N. by W., which will lead through the fairway, and clear
of the dangers on both sides of the channel. When the South point of Catala
Island bears W.N.W., the vessel will be inside the dangers at the entrance, and
should keep about N.N.E. for the entrance of Port Eliza, passing from 2 to 3
cables East of Double Island. In entering the port, steer through Birthday
Channel, passing a cable East of Harbour Island ; when past the East point of
the latter, keep about N.W. by N. for the entrance of Queen's Cove, or farther
over to the eastern shore, to avoid Channel Eeef. In entering the cove, pass
to the West of the island at its entrance, and moor immediately the vessel is
inside, anchors N.W. and S.E.

If going to the head of the port, keep on as before directed till within a
cable of Queen's Cove, when haid sharply to the westward, keeping about 1
cable off the East shore till Fairway Island comes on with the East point of
Harbour Island S.E. by E., when the vessel will be West of Channel Reef,
and may steer up the port in mid-channel.

No sailing vessel of any size should attempt to enter Port Eliza unless with
a steady fair wind.

If bound to Rolling Roadstead, enter Middle Channel as before directed, but
instead of steering for the entrance of Port Eliza, keep on a N. by W. or
N. i W. course (passing about a quarter of a mile East of Black Rock), until
the outer extreme of the islets off the N.W. part of Catala Island comes open
North of the low grassy point on its North side, bearing W. by S., when haul
in for the roadstead on that mark, which will lead midway between Arnold

•I'

rakrieu islands— kyuquot sound.

and Entrance Reefs. Anchor in 6 fathoms, with the extremes of Catala
Island bearing W.S.W. and S.E. by S.

Entering Espernnza Inlet from the westward, keep an offing of 2i or 3 miles
from Catala Island (if Kyuquot Hill be made out, by keeping it open West of
Tat-chu Point N.W. by W., a vessel will be well clenr of any dangers o(T
Catala Island), till Double Island comes in line with Black Eock N.E. by
E. f E., and enter the inlet through North Channel with this mark on, which
leads in clear of danger. When the Twins bear \V. by N., haul more to
the eastward, passing one-quarter of a mile outside Mid and Black Rocks.

Generally a heavy swell prevails off the entronco of the Nuchatlitz and
Esperanza Inlets, and no sailing vessel should attempt to enter or leave either
of them, unless with a steady fair or leading wind.

The COAST, westward of Catala Island to Tat-chu Point, runs in a westerly
direction for upwards of 3 miles, is indented by two small sandy buys, and
bordered by a number of rocks, some of which extend nearly 2 miles off shore.
Tat-chu Point is cliffy, with a reef extending nearly half a mile off it, and
there is a native village of considerable size at half a mile p]ast of it. JtHiza
Dome, a remarkable summit, 2,819 ft. above the sea, rises 1^ mile within the
point, and is very conspicuous from seaward.

From Tat-chu Point the coast turns to N.W. by W. for 7 miles to the en-
trance of Kyuquot Sound, and is indented by several small bays, in some paits
of which boats may find shelter.

BARRIER ISLANDS.— At 2 miles westward of Tat-chu Point is the com-
mencement of a chain of small islands and reefs, bordering the coast of Van-
couver Island for nearly 20 miles in a westerly direction to the entrance of
Ou-ou-Kinsh Inlet. They extend in some parts as far as 5 miles off shore, and
through them are two known navigable channels, the Kyuquot and Halibut,
leading to anchorages ; the former channel leads into Kyuquot Sound, and the
latter into Clan-ninick Harbour, but as a rule no stranger should venture into
them, or among these islands. Highest Island, one of the Barrier group,
lying 2 miles South of Union Island, is a remarkable bare rock 98 ft. high,
and useful in identifying Kyuquot Channel. In thick weather it is imprudent
to approach the Barrier group within a depth of 40 fathoms.

KYUaUOT SOUND, the eastern entrance of which is 12 miles from
Esperanza Inlet, is a large broken sheet of water penetrating from the coost to
a distance of 1 4 or 1 5 miles inland in two large arms, and several smaller ones.
There is a large island at the entrance, named Union Island, and on either side
of it is a channel into the sound, only the eastern one being fit for large
vessels. There are also several islands within, mostly small. Its shores are
generally rocky, and very much broken, rising within to high mountains,
2,000 and 4,000 ft. above the sea.

The soundings outside vary from 20 to 40 fathoms, generally sandy bottom.
At the entrance there is from 40 to 60 fathoms, but within the sound the

' .1 '

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4nR

VANCOUVER ISLAND.

depths increase in many places to upwards of 100 fathoms. There are tlirce
nnchoraj^ea, Narrowgut and Easy Creeks, and Fair Harbour, the two hitter
being of considerable size, but at a distance of 13 and 10 miles from the en-
trance ; the former is very small, but only 5 miles within the sound.

Kyuquot Channel, leads into the sound through Barrier Islands, and to the
eastward of Union Island. It is nearly straight, about O miles long in a N.N.E.
direction, and its breadth is little less than a mile. The soundings within it
vary from 30 to upwards of 40 fathoms, increasing giadually to the inuer part,
and a mid-channel course through is clear of danger.

East Entrance Reef, one of the Barrier group lying at the S.E. extreme of
the channel, 6J miles W. by N. i N. from Tat-clui Point, is about 2 cables in
extent and 4 ft. above high water. No vessel should stand inside it.

Rugged Point, the S.E. entrance point of Kyuquot Sound, is upwards of
2 miles North of East Entrance Ilcef on the East side of the channel. It is
rugged and rocky, but steep-to on the Went side. Between it and East l']n-
trance Reef are a nurabcr of rocks, among which no vessel should venture.

West Rocks, at the S.W. extreme of Kyuquot Channel, and 2 miles
N.W. 4 W. from East ICntrance Eeef, arc two in number, and GO ft. above high
water. Some rocks, which ^over at a quarter flood, extend half a mile S.E. of
them, with 20 fathoms close to their outer edge.

White Cliff Head, the S.E. extreme of Union Island, is 1 mile N.N.E. of
West Rocks, and abreast Rugged Point; it is about 70 ft. high, faced to the
southward by a remarkable cliff, with 35 fathoms within 1 cable of it. Half
a mile within the head is Kyuquot Hill, a remarkable summit 740 ft. high,
bare of trees on its East side, and very conspicuous from seaward.

Chat- Channel Point, the N.W. extreme of Kyuquot Channel, and the Eaht
point of Union Island, is a low rocky point, with a remarkable nob just inside
it. A rock, which uncovers at a quarter flood, lies 2 cables East of it.

Leading Island, just northward of Kyuquot Channel, and nearly 3J miles
from White Cliff Head, is about 1^ mile long in an East and West direction,
and half a mile wide. Its shores are steep-to, and the island rises near the
centre to a summit 400 ft. high, which kept midway between White Cliff Head
and Rugged Point, N. by E. J E., leads into the sound through the fairway of
Kyu([uot Channel.

UNION ISLAND, in the CHtrance of the sound, and protecting it from the
ocean, is of square shape, and upwards of 3 miles in extent. Its surface is
undulating, rising in the N.W. part to nearly 1,500 feet.

Blind Entrance loads into the sound westward of Union Island, between it
and the Vancouver shore, forn>i"j; n nnrrow tirtuous channel with some rocks
in the outer part, and which should not bo entered by a stranger ; coasters,
however, often enter the sound by this channel, but no directions can be given
for navigating it.

Narrowgut Creek, in tht S.E. part of the bound, about IJ mile from the

■

,'(5

IP9i^B|

KYUQUOT SOUND— FAIR HARBOUR.

miles
|;ction,
ir the

Head
Kay of

Icon It
I rocks
Itsters,

the

tormiiidtion of Kyuquot Channel, \h very narrow, and 1 mile long in a north-
easterly direction. 'J'hc soundings in it vary from 10 to 8 fathoms, and ttu're
is only just room for a vessel to moor, as its breadth is less than a cable. The
creek is easy of access to a stf .ni.:r. Shinyle Point, at the entrance of the
creek on the North aide, was the observation spot used in the so\md, and i.« in
lat. 4!)^ .59' bbJi' N., long. 127° 9' 30" W.

Deep Inlet, at 1 J mile N. W. of Narrowgut Creek, is about 3 miles long in
n north-easterly direction, but affords no anchorage. Ou its North side, at the
entrance, is a remarkable high precipice.

Ilo-hoae Island, nearly in the centre of the sound, and half a mile N.rth of
Union Island, is about 2 miles long in a north-easterly direction. On its N.FI.
side is Dixie Cove, whore a small craft may anchor in 6 fathoms completely
landlocked. Pinnace Channel, between Ho-hoac Island and the l"'asl shore of
tlic sound, is about 3 miles long in a northerly direction, and half a mile wide,
clear of danger.

Tah-sish Arm, in the North part of the sound, has its entrance .5 miles
from the termination of Kyuquot Channel. It is 6 miles long in a winding
direction to the northward, and its shores, except at the head, are high,
rugged, and generally steep-to. The head terminates in low swainj)y land.
There is one anchorage 1 mile within the entrance, on the East side, called
]'"air Harbour.

Fair Harbour is of oblong shape, 2 J miles in length in a N.E. direction,
from 3 to 4 cables wide, and affords anchorage near either end in from 13 to 11
fathoms ; its shores generally are high and steep. From the F<ast end a bank
dries off a cable, and the western one is a low narrow neck about a cable wide
at low water, and separates the harbour from Pinnace Channel. The entrance
to it, which lies on the North side near the middle, is nearly a mile long, and
from 1 to 2 cables wide, with some small islets oii 'ts North side, the soundings
in it being very irregular, varying from 5 to 20 f.^thoms. In entering keep
the South shore close on board. This I arbour can be entered by steamers or
sailing vessels with a fair wind.

Moke-tas Island, in the North part of the sound, between the entrance to
the Tah-sish and Kok-shittle Arms, is about 2 miles long, and 1 mile wide,
rocky, and about 400 ft. high ; its East and West sides arc steep-to. At
1 cable off its North shore, near the centre, is a rock under water, and to the
S.E. of it lie Channel Rocks, a small patch about 3 ft. above high water ; they
are, however, steep-to.

Kok-shittle Arm, tlic entrance of which is in the N.W. part of the sound,
about miles from Kyu((uot Channel, is upwards oi' 8 miles long in a north-
westerly direction, and about a mile wide at the entrance, narrowing graduallv
towards the head ; its shores arc rocky, and of a broken outline, with sevi lai
•small islets off them. The stmndings vary from 20 to HO fathoms, shoaling
gradually towards the head. There are no dangers, and a very good anchiirago,

'W^»;

! = ;";vvv

:■v^^' '■

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UUUJU^

l'f~l-

■$il

VANCOUVKJl ISLAND.

the host In tlic koiukI, lies on its WoKt side, at a diHtanoc of 4 miles from
the '■ntrancc. TIk; head oi" the ari.: tiTiiiiniiloH in low swampy land, thrnri^h
wliieh (I'.ws a Hraall strci'in, and a bunk "xtcndH off aljout 2 cables. JuMt to
the ".!•;. of thin 'iaribuldi I'cukH riwe to a lieij^lit of '1,458 ft. F'Jasy Creek, on
the \Ve:5t «i(le of Kok sliittle Arm, and !•! inil(;s froin tli(! rntr.inci! of tlii;
fiomid, Ih about 2 miles long in an M.-SM. dircetion, tiii-ning Hhar|)jy round
from its i-ntranec to the southward, and runniiif^ jiar.allel Uj tin; inli I, bi.in;^
He|)arati:d from it by a iiarr'>w r<n:ky ])eninsula. 'I'liere is good aiieliorag<;
from half a mile within tiie jntranc« to tli<; head. It oi^jflit to be entered in
inid-channrd.

Chamis lUnj, formed in the WeHt Htde of Kyu'juo* Soijfwl, about 1 mile from
the .North part of iilind i'hitruno', \x nearly half ai mile in ext«:nt, wut uUordrf
no anehorage, tlie water being too iSeep.

directions. N'o sailing vessel nhould att«;inpt to enter Kyuquot Sound,
unU'-is with a steady fair, or leading wind, as generally a li<-avy «well prevaiU
outMdi', whieli in a light wind woidd render her jiosition eritieai ; and no
htranger siiould attempt I') venture in, unle.HS provi<k;d with tlie chart, the
■weather clear, and the leading mark for the channel well made (mt.

ICntering the sound by Kyu<juot (-'hannel, which i.s the <>nly one a stranjifer
ought to use, keej) a good offing, till the entrance of the channel is made out
(White (,'liff Head and Kyufjuot Hill .it th(; .S.lv point of I'nion Isl.ind. whieli
h.'ive been before described, are very conspicuoiw, and will identify the
channel;, when bring the summit of Leading fwland iiudway betwe<'n f.'hat-
channel and liugged i'oints N. by V,. ^ Jv, and steer up the channel with that
mark on. In nearing Chat-c^hannel I'oint, give it a berth of ;it lea.st 4 cublcH
to avoid the rock which lies off it.

CLAN-NINICK HARBOUR, on the Vancouver .shon;, .'! milcM to the west-
ward <il Jvyucjiiot .S(;und, is about 1 mile long in a westerly dircetion, half a
mile wide, and afford^ good anchorage in from 7 to 10 fathon^s, at the distance
of half -1 mih' fiom llie head, from which a sand-bank extends 2 cables.

'J'he harbour is |)rotect<;d by some islands of tiic 15arri<-r group from the
ocean, and there is only one chunne-l, tin; Halibut, into it thniugh them, which,
though clear of danger, ought not, ex<;e]>t under unay<jidablo cireuiustanccH, to
be atlemjHed by a straiiger.

HALIBUT CHANNEL, which run.s througli llie fiarrier groiiji from the
oce.'m lo the entrance of 'Ian ninick Harbour, lies w(',stward of 'lable and
\'illage Islands, and Kast </f l/j'rV 'Ai'l Island. It is about '.i iidles long in .i
nortlierly direction, anf'i half a mile- wide m tlie narrowest part. The soundings
in it vary from 10 to fathoms, being somewlial irri.'gnlar ; but a midch.innel
cour.se through, I'xcep' in the northern part, is clear of danger

Tahli hlunit, on the Ka.st side of tl»e channel, is the largi st of the Harrier
group, being nearly half a miW tft exXMiti, and ab(jiii l.jO ft. high, '/iij, liLu^,
on the NS'eut side of the ialaiid, i.^ < onsjricuouK.

C'f,AN-Xf.\I('K IIAIIIIOCK OC-OlMvINSlI IN'LKT,

-i'W

ft-

ITiilf a mile M.iMt of Taljlc tsiiiini is an aiicliora;^"' wit)i fVam '1 Id fiithoTiis,
tolcralily Hhtltorcd by Hoiu't i-.luii'l-i I'luiu Mciiwuid, and much used hy co i-^tuiM
in Humnicr montlis. 'I'liii entrance Ut it is luthcr intricate, and no Htran^i-r, or
any except a sinal! vc.hhoI, -iliould attempt to enter.

Villiiije Isliinil, on the l'!ast t-ide of Halibut Channel, just North of Table
Island, is stnall, and aliout J.'iO ft. hij^h ; on its Kust, side is a larj^e iiali\e
villaj^e, niueli frerju'^nted in Huinnier ; off it. a bank dries nearly .'5 cables. To
the eastward of this island is a sinall cove amon^ the l{;uri( r fslaiids, called
Itnrlir Cine, with from 1 to '■'> fallionis ; it is well shelteri'd in all weatlieT, and
rnueh fic(juented by coasters when fur tradinj^. The entrance to it is very
narrow, and almost choked up with rofdt'i.

Two ealjles .Vortli of Vi!la;.^e Island is a rock awash at liijili w.iler sprinp^s,
but there is from .O to (; fathoms at a distance of a cable oil the West side.

I.iKik-iiul /aland, n'. the South entrance point of Halibut ('hannel, li(;s ne.-irly
1 mile K.W. of Talil'; Island; it is small, covered with a IVw tree^^, and .about
150 ft. hij^h. (iranito lalniid, which forms the South !-.i<!e of ( ,'lari-niiiiek
Harbour, is about Iialf a mile in extent, and joined by a saiidy beach at low
water to the Vancouver shore ; .'i cabh^s Ivisl of its i'last point is a vcay dan-
gerous rod-: ' !'inf' Rock, which lii-s :it the termination of the Halibut ( iiannel,
and only uueo.'c,;« at low watei' sprinj^s.

Ah before noticed, no stranf^er should atterniit to enter tliis liarbour wittiout
a pilot, urdess from absolute nt-cessity, and if in a. sailing vessel, oidy with a
Btcady fair wind.

Noli('e waH i^iven, in ISHO, that a Ktmk<n rock, on whir'li the Hudson Hay
f-'omjiany's steam-vessel /'r^im-ix Luuim-, drawing !i ft., recently struck ut low
water spring tides, is reported to lit; nearly miilway iti the entraiicf; of this har-
bour, at llie distance of 2 cables .Nortli cd' Chief Hock.

OU-OU-KINSH INLET, Id miles \V..N.\V. IVf.m Kyuquot Soun.i, i. 7
miles lonj^ in a north-easterly (lir(.-ction, and 1^ mile wide at t!ie entraiiee,
nanowinj^ t^iadually towards the iieao, the sliorc's within are hij^h, risin;^ from
2,00(.> to iijjwards <A' .'1,()0(» ft. 'l"his irdet, and .Nasparti Inht, ;ue failed by
many roek-^ and deticlied rt-cW, making; aci;ess to th»-ni i' ry iljlli':ult t() a
Klranger.

Tiie houndin<;s in the inlet vary from 40 to '>*? fatlioms, and there is rmly one
indid'eri'nt anchoraj^e, Hatlle Hay, just within tiie entraiKre, on the West Ki<|e.
The I iitrance lies West of the iJarrier Ixiands, is a mile wide in the narrowest
part, and the soundinf^s in it vary from 14 to 1H fatbote

Clam hlft, at th<! HE. extreme of the <*ntrance, is Hmall, bare, and 20 ft.
ab<)V<' hi^li watfT ; no vesKcl ou(;lit to go la-tward of, or approach it within
half a mile. 'I'liis islet is the wchternniosl ff the liarre r Islands, .uid lies
21 i mile.s \V. by X. from Tat-chu I'mjiI, wliere they may tie almost said to
eotninence.

Nurtit I'arijir. ,'} i.

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442

VANX'OUYER ISLAND.

Bunshy Islands, on the East side of entrance, close inshore, arc about 2 miles
in extent, and from 200 to 300 ft. higli. The passages between them and the
ehore are choked up with rocks, but their West side is steep -to. Pinnacle
Point and Green Head at their S.W. extreme are remarkable. To the north-
ward of tliose islands is Malksope Inlet, 4 miles long in a north- easterly direc-
tion, but the entrance is intricate, and there is no anchorage within it.

Cuttle Group, lying at the S.W. entrance point of Ou-ou-Kinsh Inlet, and
lA mile N.W. of Clara Islet, is composed of a number of small islets and
rocks, some of the former being wooded. Nearly 1 mile S.W. of them is a
rock which breaks in fine weather. On the Vancouver shore, just N.W. of
them, is a remarkable summit, the Lone Cone, 356 ft. high, useful in identify-
ing the entrance.

Sitlkan Reefs are a very dangerous patch of rocks lying nearly 3 miles out-
side the entrance of Ou-ou-Kinsh Inlet, 2] miles W. by S. from Clara Islet,
and nearly 4 miles S.S.E. of Hat Island in Nasparti Inlet. They are about
half a mile in extent East and West, and only break occasionally; there is
from 10 to 1 1 fathoms close around them. The entrance to Ou-oii Kinsh Inlet
oj)en N.N.E., leads 1^ mile eastward of the reefs; Solander Island, just open
of the land East of Cape Cook, imd bearing West, leads Ij- mile southward of
them ; Hat Island in line with a summit on the West side of Nasparti Inlet,
bearing North, leads 1 ,} mile westward of them ; and Ilat Island seen between
the Haystacks, N.W. by N., leads three-quarters of a mile N.E. of them.

Battle Bay, M-hich is just within the entrance of Ou-ou-Kinsh Inlet on the
West side, is upwards of a mile wide, and half a mile deep, with several islets
and rocks inside it near the middle. Near the North part there is anchorage
in from to 9 fathons, which may be used in fine weather.

NASPARTI INLET, 3^ miles West of Ou-ou-Kinsh Inlel:, on the East side
of a large peninsula of which Cape Cook is the S.W. extreme, and in the head
of an open bight or Imy, is about 4 miles long in a northerly direction, and
about half a mile wide at the entrance, decreasing in some places to less than 3
cables. Its .shorts are high and rocky, indented by some slight bays. Thcio is
a fresh-water stream at the head, from which a bank extends about 3 cables.
The soundings vary from 13 to 30 fathoms, and there is a secure tho\igh rather
limited anchorage, in from 13 to 16 fathoms, at the distance of half a mile from
the head. Outside the emrance are several dangers, but none within, and the
projecting points may be approached to a cable s distance.

Sulivan Reefs, just described, lie 3^ miles S.S.E. of the entr-'.ace, and appear
to be pretty steep-to on the West side.

Hiiystacks, off the East side of tho entrance, and 1§ mile North of Sulivan
Kecfs, are two hare sharp-topped cliffy rocks 6.5 ft. high, and about 3 cables
apart. There is a clear deep passage between them and Sulivan Reefs. East
Rock, 3 cables off the East entrance point, is of small extent, has 17 fathoms
at u cable's distance to the westward of it, and covers at half fiood. Yule Islet,

BROOKS PENIXSULA—CAPE COOK.

443

"bout 40 ft, high, lies midway between the Haystacks and East Rock. Mile
liock Breaker lies IJ mile off the West shore of the entrance to the inlet, and
2 miles W. by N. ^ N. fi-om Sulivau Reefs. It is very dangerous to vessels
entering the inlet, as it is of small extent, and only breaks in heavy weather.
No vessel should stand to the westward of this danger.

Mile ilock, nearly a mile North of the above-mt'ntioned danger, is a small
bare rock, 12 ft. above high water. Hat Island, lying in the centre of the inlet
just within the entrance, is small, and has a few stunted trees on the summit ;
from the southward it is very conspicuous, and appears somewhat like a hat.
It is steep-to on the East side, but nearly midway bet. "n it and the West
shore is a shoal patch of 2 J fathoms, marked by kelp. In entering the inlet
pass eastward of the island.

Nasparti Inlet should not be used by a stranger unless unavoidably neces-
sary, as in thick or cloudy weather it might be difficult to make out the
leading marks, and no one should attempt to enter unless they are well madu
out, especially as the outlying dangers only break in heavy weather, and are
seldom seen. A sailing vessel ought, in passing the entrance of this and
Ou-ou-Kin.sh Inlet, to keep Solander Island open South of the land East of
Cape Cook bearing West.

BROOKS PENINSULA, to the westward of Nasparti Inlet, is a peninsula
of an oblong shape, 9 miles long, and about 5 miles wide, projecting into the
ocean in a S.S.W. direction. Its shores are gcncrallv very rocky, and rise
almost abruptly from the sea to upwards of 2,000 ft. There are several off-
lying dangers around it, some of which extend upwards of a mile off shore.

CAPE COOK, or Woody Point, the S.W. extreme of this peninsula, and
the most projecting point of the outer coast of Vancouver Island, is 163 miles
AV. by N. J N. from Cape Flattery lighthouse, and G'J miles W. by N. ^ X.
from Estevan Point. The cape rises abruptly from the sea to a summit
1,200 ft. high. Nearly 1 mile westward of it lies Solander Island, which is
bare, 580 ft. high, and has two sharp summits. Between it and the cape the
passage is choked up \Yith rocks, and no vessel or even boat should go inside
the island.

At a distance of 2 miles off Cape Cook and the South side of the peninsula,
the soundings are from 20 to 90 fathoms, and, as a rule, no vessel should ap-
proach nearer.

BROOKS BAY, on the West side of the peninsula, is a large open bay,
about 12 miles wide and 6 miles deep. There are several dimgers within it,
and two inlets, Klaskish and Klaskino, which afford anchorage, but are very
difficult of access, and no vessel should attempt to enter eitlier unless embayed
and unable to get out of Brooks Bay. With strong -.vcnierly winds u tremendous
sea is sent into it.

Clerke Reefs lie in the S.E. part of the bay, an<i 5 mles North of Capo
Cook ; their outnr part is 3 miles off the East shore of the bay They co\er

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VANCOUVER ISLAND.

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nil) I

an extent of upwards of 2 miles; some are under water, others uncover, and no
vessel should venture among them. Sinyle and Dotible IsleU lie near tho
shore at tlieir western end.

Klaskish Inlet, at the head of Brooks Baj', on the West side of tho
peninsula, and 10 miles N.N.K. of Caj)o Cook, is about 2 miles long in a
north-easterly direction, and 1 mile wide at the entrance. At its head is a
long narrow basin, the entrance of which is too contracted for a vessel to
enter. There is an anchorage just within the entrance of the inlet on tho
South side, to the eastward of Shelter Island, but it is difficult of access to a
sailing vessel.

Surge Islets, on the South side of the entrance, about a mile off shore, are
small, rocky, and a1>out 40 ft. high ; foul ground exists among them. Shelter
hhniil, just within the entrance of the inlet on its South side, is about half a
iinle in extent, 300 ft. high, with a summit at each end covered with a few
stunted trees. The anchorage on its East side is about a third of a mile in
extent, with from 10 tO' 13 fathoms, well sheltered, but the bottom is irregular.
The entrance to it, round the N.E. side of the island, is less than a cable wide
in the narrowest part.

Between Shelter Island and the North entrance point of the inlet is a heavy
confused sea, which would be dangerous for sailing vessels, as the wind gene-
rally fails there.

Entering the anchorage on the East side of Shelter Island, do not bring Cape
Cook to the southward of S.E. by S. J S., till Li-ading Cone, a remarkable
stiTDviit at the head of the inlet, about 500 high, comes in line with Small Islet
on the North side of the entrance, bearing N.E. by E. J E., which mark will
lead into the inlet well North of Gierke Reefs and Surge Islets. When abreast
the latter, haul a little to the eastward, so as to enter midway between Small
Islet and Shelter Island ; pass Mithin a cable East of the bare islet off the
hitter's N.li. poiiit, and anchor in 13 fathoms, Avith the extremes of Shelter
Island bearing N.W. by W. i W. and S.W. i W.

The entrance of tlus anchorage is intricate and narrow ; and unless unavoid-
ably necessary, no vessel larger than a coaster should attempt it, as a furious
sea rages all around the outer parts.

Ship Rock, lying nearly 8 miles N. by W. of Cape Cook, 2 miles off the
shore in the centre of Brooks Bay, and midway between Klaskish and
Klaskino Inlets, is of small extent, and hn^ from 17 to 20 fathoms close on \U
South and East sides. The sea generally breaks very heavily over it. Small
Islet in line with Leading Cone, N.E, by E. J E., leads three-quarters of a
mile southward of it.

KLASKINO INLET, the entrance to which is in the North part of Brooks
Bay, and 10 miles N. jj W. from Cape Cook, is nearly (5 miles long in a winding
direction to the E.N.E. There are numerous rocks off the entrance, but a safe
though intricate passage through them ; and there is also a good anchorage on

BROOKS HAY— KLASKINO INLKT.

445

the Roiilh side, 2 miles within the inlet. Tlie soundings vary from 12 to 40
fathoms, increasing gradually inside, which becomes narrow, with high and
rocky shores, terminating in low land at the head.

Noh Point, the South entrance point of the inlet, is rocky, and covered with
a few stunted trees ; some rocks extend 3 or 4 cables ofT it, and close to its
outer part is a rocky nob about 100 ft. high. Anchorcuje Island, in the middle
of the inlet, about 2 miles within the entrance, is of small extent, and rocky.
The anchorage or harbour is between the East side of this island and the shore ;
it is well sheltcroc; Inside Anchorage Island some rocks extend nearly across
the inlet, rendering; it almost impossible for a vessel to go beyond them.

lied Stripe Mountain, rising on the North side of the entrance, abreast
Anchorage Island, is a remarkable conical-shaped summit, 2,200 ft. high, widi
a valley on either side of it. On its Sotith part, facing seaward, is a conspicuous
red cliffy stripe or landslip, easily distinguished from the outside ; the lower
part of it in line with Twenty-feet Hock, bearing N.IC. by N. { N., K'ads into
the entrance South of Channel Keefs, and nearly 2 miles N.W. of Ship
Itock.

Twenty-feet Rock, 4 cables W.N.W. of Nob Point, is bare, and 20 ft. above
high water. It is conspicuous from the outside. The only channid into the
inlet is to the westward of the rock, between it and Oliannel Ecefs.

Channel Reefs, the S.I'l. part of which is 3J cables AV. by S. of Twenty-feet
Uock, are an irregular cluster of rocks, mostly under water, extending in a
westerly direction to the N.W. shore of Ih'ooks Bay. There is deep water
between them in many places, but the only safe pas.sage into Klaskino Inlet is
upwards of 3 cables wide, with deep water between their S.E. part and Twenty-
feet Rock.

If obliged to enter Klaskino Inlet, when outside Ship Rock, bring Twenty-
feet Rock in line with the lower part of the red stripe on Red Stripe Moimtiiin,
bearing N.E. by N. \ N., and run boldly for the cntraTice with that mark on,
which will lead 2 J cables South of Channel Reefs; keep on this course till
within 2 cables of Twenty-feet Rock, when haul a little to the northward, and
])ass it on its North side at a cable's distance, after which steer about N.E. by
Vj. J E. for the centre or South jiart of Anchorage Island, passing a cable or
so North of the rocks oH' the South side of the inlet. AVhen abreast the S.W.
point of the island, haul (juickly to the eastward, round the rocks off its S.l-l.
point within half a cable, and anchor in from 9 to 10 fathoms, midway between
the East side of the island and the main, with ihe extremes of the former bear-
ing N.W. and S.W. by W. A large vessel should moor.

The entrance to Klaskino anchorage is even more intricate than that of
Klaskish, and should not be attempted by a stranger unless absolutely necessary
for safety. Eresh water may be j)rocurcd in both these anchorages.

At 3 miles from Klaskino, in the N.W, part of Rrooks Bay, is a largo rivulet
where boats may enter and find shelter in bad weather.

.,iv

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VANCOUVER ISLAND.

LAWN POINT, the N.W. extreme of Brooks Bay, lies 12 miles N.W. by N.
from Cape Cook ; it is low, and some rocks extend more than half a mile in an
easterly direction from it, inside of which a boat may find shelter. The sea
breaks violently about this point, and everywhere along the shores of Brooks
Bay. The land in the vicinity of Lawn Point appears very fertile, and lightly
timbered ; it rises gradually from the sea to a height of 1,900 ft.

QTJATSINO SOUND, the north-westernmost of the deep inlets on the outer
coast of Vancouver Island, is an extensive arm of the sea, which penetrates the
island in a north-easterly direction for upwards of 25 miles. The breadth at
the entrance is r.oarly 6 miles, narrowing to less than a mile at a distance of 5
miles within ; the sound then runs in a north-easterly direction, nearly straight
for 13 miles, when it branches ofif in two arms, one extending to the S.E. for
12 miles, and terminating in low land. The other arm lies to the northward
of, and is connected with, the sound by a straight narrow |u4jd about 2 miles
long ; its length is 22 miles in an East and West direction, and the eastern
extreme, Ilupert Arm, is only 6 miles distant from Hardy Bay, on the N.E.
side of Vancouver Island. The western part terminates within 12 miles of San
Josef Bay on the outer coast. Just within the entrance of the sound, on the
North side, is Forward Inlet, a much smaller arm, about 6 miles long in a
northerly direction, in which are the best anchorages of the sound.

The shores of Quatsino Sound are generally high, and near the entrance
very much broken, with many good sheltered anchorages. There are several
islands within and along its shores, but they are mostly small.

From the outside the entrance of Quatsino Sound presents several remark-
able features, which render it easy to be made out. Along the South side of
the entrance are several rocks and small islands ; on both sides of, and within
the sound the land is high, and some of the summits are very conspicuous,
among others the Flat-top and Entrance Mountains to the northward of the
entrance, and the Nose Peak and Gap Mountains inside. Nose Peak being
easily distinguished from its sharp rocky summit.

The soundings in the entrance, and from 3 to 5 miles outside, vary from
30 to 70 fathoms, but within they deepen in many places to upwards of 100
fathoms. There are several dangers along the South shore at the entrance.
In the fairway are two very dangerous rocks, which only break in heavy
weather, and it requires great caution on the part of the navigator to avoid
them, when entering or leaving the sound.

It is high water in Quatsino Sound, on full and change, at ll*", the rise and
fall of tide being about 1 1 feet.

Reef Point, the S.E. entrance point of the sound, is 14 miles N.W. by N.
from Cape Cook, and IJ mile from Lawn Point, the N.W. extreme of Brooks
Bay. It is low and rocky, but rises gradually to a well-defined summit,
1,901 ft. above the sea. The coast between it and Lawn Point forms a slight
bay, filled with a number of rocks extending to a considerable distance oil'

QUATSINO SOUND— FOinVARD INLET.

447

shore. Boat River, which runs into a small bight on the South shore of tho
sound, 5^ miles within Reef Point, is merely a small stream which a boat can
enter.

Bold Bluff, 7 miles North of Reef Point, on the South side of the sound, is,
as its name implies, a bold, rocky salient bluff, rising suddenly to upwards of
200 ft., when it slopes gradually to a summit, upwards of 1,G00 ft. high; it
may be safely approached to a cable. At this spot the sound contracts in
breadth to less than a mile.

Surf Islands, upwards of a mile S.S.W. of Bold Bluff, and 3 miles within
the entrance of the sound, are a chain of small islands, about 1 mile long in a
N.W. and S.E. direction, some of which are covered with a few stunted trees,
and are about 40 ft. above high water ; a short distance from them are a
number of breaking rocks, but at 3 cables from their South and West sides
there is from 10 to 30 ftithoms.

Entrance Island, .5 J miles N.W. JN. from Reef Point, at the N.W. entrance
point of the sound, is small and rocky, about 140 ft. high, and covered with a
few stunted trees. It is steep-to on its S.E. side.

Danger Bocks, a mile within the entrance, nearly in the fairway, are two
very dangerous pinnaclb rocks, of small extent, and steep-to on all sides ; as
they very seldom break, great caution is required, on entering or leaving the
sound, to avoid them. The North Danger lies 7 cables E.N.E. from Entrance
Island, and breaks at low water. The South Danger is half a mile S.E. of the
North rock, and is awash at low water spring tides ; there is deep water
between them. Between Danger Rocks and Surf Islands, the passage is IJ
mile wide, and clear of danger.

Pinnacle Islet in one with the East point of Low Islands, N.W. by N. \ N.,
leads midway between North Danger Rock and Entrance Island; Robson
Islet open North of Entrance Mount Point, N.W. by W. J W., leads 3 to 4
cables East of the rocks ; Village Islet just touching Brown Point, N.AV., leads
midway between them and Surf Islands ; Bedwell Islets, within the sound on
the North side, open North of Bold Bluff, bearing N.E., leads one-quarter of a
mile northward of North Danger Rock ; and Bold Bluff in line with the gap in
the centre of Surf Islands, bearing N. by E. J E., leads nearly a mile S.E. of
the South Danger.

FORWARD INLET, on the North side of the sound 1 mile within the
entrance, is about 6 miles long, first taking a north-westerly direction for 2
miles from its outer part, then turning to the N.N.E. for 4 miles, and con-
tracting in breadth ; it becomes shoal at the head, and terminates in large
salt-water lagoons. There are two anehortiges within it, North and Winter
Harbours, the iormer easy of access to sailing vessels ; both are very secure,
and well sheltered.

Entrance and Flai-toj) Mountains, on the West side of the inlet near the
entrance, are very ec.nspieuous objects from seaward ; the former is 1,275 and

mii\^

448

VANCOUVER ISLAND.

!i!i

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BIS! ,

the latter nonrly 1,000 ft. high. Pinnacle Islet, three-quarters of a mile north-
ward of Kntraiicc Island, at the S.W. entrance point to Forward Inlet, is a
small jagged roek about 40 ft. high, with a few trees on its summit.

Low Islets are three small wooded islets on the S.W. side of Forward Inlet,
nearly a mile within the entrance. Rohson Island, in the bend of Forward
Inlet on the West side, 1^ mile from Pinnacle Islet, and half a mile north-
ward of Low Islets, is about half a mile in extent, and 38.5 ft. high ; its shores
are rocky, but at a distance of a cable free of danger on the North and East
sides. A small village stands on the East side of Forward Inlet, abreast Robson
Island, and close off it is Vilhiyc Islet, a small bare islet about 40 ft. high,
which is rather conspicuous.

Bare Islet, lying 1 J cable off the shore, at a short distance eastward of the
N.E. entrance point to the inlet, is about 1 2 ft. high, and steep-to on the outside.
Burnt Hill, 1,095 ft. high, just over the N.E. entrance point of Forward Inlet,
is remarkable from the southward, being bare of trees and cliffy on its South
side ; at 1 mile N.E. of it is another conspicuous summit, named Nose Peak,
1,730 ft. high, with a bare rocky top.

North Harbour, which lies to the N.W. of Robson Island, in a bight on
the West side of Forward Inlet, is a snug and secure anchorage, about 4
cables in extent, with from 4 to 6 fathoms. The entrance is 3 cables wide,
rendering the hai'bour easy of access to sailing vessels ; it is perhaps the best
anchorage within the sound, and from being only 4 miles within the entrance
is very convenient. Browning Creek, in its western part, is IJ mile long, but
very narrow, with from 2 to 5 fathoms water, and terminates in a shallow basin,
dry at low water.

Observatory Islet, which lies on the North side of the entrance to the har-
bour, is a small bare rock, connected at low wc.ter to the main ; in lat.
50° 29' 25" N., long. 128° 3' 39" W.

Winter Harbour comprises that part of Forward Inlet which runs in a
N.N.E. direction, and is a capacious anchorage with from 8 to 11 fathoms.
Its shores are low, and bordered by a sandy beach, and the harbour becomes
shoal at a distance of a mile from the head ; its breadth varies from 2 to 6
cables.

Log Point, just outside the entrance of this harbour on the East side, is
low, and bordered by a sandy beach ; to the southward of it, and extending
4 cables off shore, is New Bank, with Z^ fathoms on the shoalcst part, and
contracting the breadth of the entrance passage to the harbour to less than a
cable ; but by keeping a little over to the West side when abreast North
Harbour, a vessel of the largest size may avoid this bank, and enter Winter
Harbour without danger.

Pilley Shoal, of 3 fathoms, on the North side of the sound, is of small
extent, steep-to on the outside, and marked by kelp. It lies 1^ cable offshore,
and 1 mile West from Bold Bluff.

. il

'HI

QUATRIXO SOrXD— HECATE COVE.

449

Dedwell hlets, lying 3i miles within the cntrnnoe, off a projecting point on
the North side of the sound, nre of small extent, wooded, and separated from
the shore by a very narrow boat pass, which is CDnspicuous from the entrance;
at 3 cables N.E. of them is Mondai/ 6'hual, with 1 fathoms, which is marked
by kelp, and steep-to on tlie outside.

Koprino Harbour, 8 miles within the entrance, in the centre of a bay on
the North side of the sound, is a perfectly landlocked but small anchorage,
affording njom for one or two ships to lie moored within. It lies to the north-
ward of Plumper Inland, which is about half a mile in extent, low, wooded,
and steep-to on all sides, there being a good passage on either side of it into
the harbour.

Dockyard Island, in the West part of the harbour, midway between
Plumper Island and the North shore, is small, but may be approached close to ;
there is good anchorage 1 cable South of it, in 14 fathoms. M'cdye Island
lies at the eastern limit of the anchorage, about 1 cable North of Plumper
Island ; there is a deep passage close to on either side of it into the harbour.
Olservation Islet, at the N.E. extreme of the harbour, is bare, and about 12 ft.
high; !at. 50° 30' N., long. 127° 52' 16" W.

East Passage leads into Koprino Harbour, eastward of Plumper Island. It
is half a mile wide at the entrance, and is clear of danger. Prideaux Point,
the East entrance point of East Passage, is low, and bordered by a sandy
beach.

The North shore of Quatsino Sound from Prideaux Point takes a general
north-easterly direction for 9 miles to Coffin Islet, at the trance of llecafo
Cove. From Bold Bluff the South shore of the sound runs nearly parallel to
the northern one for 13 miles in a north-easterly direction. It is high, and
indented by two bays of considerable size, and some small creeks, none of
which afford anchorage.

Limestone Island, 15 miles within the entrance, and in the centre of the
sound, is the largest island in the sound, nearly 3 miles long, and about three-
quarters of a mile wide in the broadest i)art. Its shores are rocky, but clear
of danger, and the islaiul is of moderate height.

South-East Arm, the entrance of which is a mile East of Limestone
Island, and 18 miles within the entrance of the sound, is 10 miles long in a
south-easterly direction, and varies in breadth from 3 cables to 1 mile. Its
shores are generally high and rugged, but terminate in low land at the head.

Whitestone Point, at the separation of the two arms at the head of (iuatsino
Sound, is a rocky point of moderate height, and lies three-quarters of a mile
N.E. of Limestone Island, abreast Coffin Islet. Hull Pock, which covers,
and is marked by kelp, lies 3 cables South of it, and 2 cables off shore.

Hecate Cove, on the North shore, about 1 mile N.E. of Coffin Islet, runs in
about two-thirds of a mile in a north-westerly direction, is from 2 to 3 cables
North Pacific. 3 m

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IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)

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Photographic

Sciences
Corporation

23 WEST MAIN STREET

WEBSTER, NY. MSBO

(716) 873-4S03

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VANCOUVER ISLAND.

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wide, and affords good anchorage near the centre in 9 to 1 1 fathom*. Tha
entrance is clear of danger, but in the inner part of the core, near the North
side, are some shoal patches, marked by kelp, with only 1 1 ft. water in some
parts. This cove is convenient for steamers or small oruft. Bound Island,
nearly in mid-channel about a mile ESast of Hecate Cove, and just South of
Quatsino Niirrows, ia small, and of moderate height ; there is a clear passage
between it and the North shore, but the one South of it is filled with rocks.

Qaataino Narrows, 20 miles inside the sound and connecting it with the
Rupert and West Arms, are 2 miles long in a northerly direction ; the shores
are high and rocky, but at half a cable's distance clear of danger. The tide
runs through these narrows at a rate of from 4 to 6 knots, and the streams
turn shortly after high and low water.

Rupert Ann, to the N.K. of Quatsino Narrows, is 5 miles long in a north-
easterly direction, and nearly a mile wide ; its "bores are high and clear of
danger. Its head terminates in low laud, and a bank dries off it for 2 cables.

West Arm trends in a westerly direction nearly 18 miles from the North
part of Quatsino Narrows, and varies in breadth from 2 cables to a mile. Its
shores arc generally high and rocky ; the northern one is indented by several
small bayH. There ure two anchorages, one at Coal Harbour, on the North
side, and the other at the edge cf the bank extending from the head. Coal
Harbour, 2 miles from the narrows, on the North side of West Arm, is of
square shape, from 3 to 4 cables in extent, and affords good anchorage near
the middle in from 12 to 14 fathoms. Indications of coal have been met in its
vicinity.

Directions. — KnterltigCiuitsino Sound from the southward, give Keef Point,
its S.K. entrance point, an offing of about 2 miles, and steer North till Hold
Bluff comes in line with the gap in the centre of Surf Islands, N. by £. j K.,
which mark kept on will lead S.K. of Danger Rocks; when the West side
of Robson Island comes open North of Entrance Mount Point in Forward Inlet
N.W. by W. i W., or Village Islet, on the East side of that inlet, is just
touching Brown Point, bearing N. W., u vessel will be well East of these rocks.
If bound up the sound, round the North end of Surf Islands at a distance of
about half a mile, or if going to Forward Inlet, steer about N.W. by W.,
taking care not to shut in the South side of Ilobson Island with Entrance
Motmt Point, until Bedwell Islets come open North of Bold Bluff, bearing
N.E., when she will be well North of Danger Rocks. Pass from 1 to 2 cables
off the East sides of Low Islets and Robson Island, and rounding the North
point of the latter, at the 3ame distance, enter North Harbour, and anchor in
from 4 to C fathoms near its centre.

If intending to anchor in Winter Harbour, when abreast the North part of
Robson Island, steer N.N.W., keeping well over to the West shore to avoid
New Bank, and when past it enter the harbour in mid-channel, anchoring in
11 fathoms about half a mile North of Grass Point. If bound to Koprino

QUATSINO SOUND.

461

Harbour, which can only b« entered by steamers or sailing Tessels with a fair
wind, round the N.W. point of Surf Islands at about half a mile, and steer
up the sound in mid-channel until abreast the harbour. If in a large vessel,
go through the East psMOge, keeping from 1 to 2 cables off Plumper Island ;
enter the anchorage close-to on either side of Wedge Island, and moor imme-
diately the vessel is West of it, anchors North and South ; a vessel may also
enter by West passage, and anchor in 14 fathoms South of Dockyard Island.

In navigating the sound to the eastward of Koprino Harbour the chart is
the best guide, and a mid-channel course is everywhere free of danger; sailing
vessels of any size should not, however, go eastward of that harbour, as the
anchorages beyond are rather difficult of access for them. If wishing to
anchor in Hecate Cove, enter it in mid-channel, passing North of Limestone
Island, and moor immediately the vessel is inside the entrance points ; the
tide runs from 1 to 3 knots abreast the entrance, and should be guarded
against.

Uoing through the Quatsino Narrows, keep well over to the North shore,
pnss North of Round Island, round Turn Point close-to, and guarding against
tide, steer up the narrows in mid-channel ; these narrows ought only to be
attempted at slack water or with a favourable tide, unless in a full powered
steamer. I'he best anchorage North of the narrows is Coal Harbour, aud if
wishing to go there, a N.W. course for 2 mUes from the narrows will lead to
its entrance, and a vessel may anchor near the cen:re in from 12 to 14 fathoms.
In navigating the West Arm keep well over to the South shore, when in the
vicinity of Pot Bock and Straggling Islands.

Entering Quatsino Sound from the westward, keep an offing of about
2 miles, till Entrance Island bears N.E. or N.E. by N., when steer to pass
about 2 cables East of it, but not further off. When abreast it haul to the
northward, bringing Pinnacle Islet in line with the East side of Low Islets,
bearing N.W. by N. J N., and steer up with that mark on till Bedwcll Islets
come well open North of Bold Bluff, bearing N.E., when enter Forward Inlet,
or proceed further up the sound, as before directed.

If the weather be so thick that the marks for clearing Danger Rocks cannot
well be made out, a vessel, if able to distinguish Entrance Island, may enter
the sound by steering for it on a N. by E. or north-easterly bearing ; pass
close to its East side, and haul to the northward when abreast it ; by keeping
half a mile on that course, she will be well clear N.W. of Danger Bocks, and
may proceed anywhere up the sound. On a clear night in fine weather, a
vessel may also enter in the above manner.

There is room, with a steady breese, for a smart working vessel to beat into
the sound to the southward and eastward of Danger Bocks, though without
previous knowledge of the place it would be rather hazardous to attempt it.
If obliged to do so, when standing to the northward towards Danger Bocks,
tack when Bold Bluff cuuics in line with the centre of the northernmust

Att

VANCOUVER ISLAND.

(wooded) Surf Island, bearing N.E. by N. ^ N. ; and in utanding to the South
■hore, tack when Bold Bluff comes in line with the S.E. extreme of Surf
Islands bearing N. | E. or N. by E. When the South side of Bobson Island
comes open North of Entrance Mount Point, N.W. by W. | W., she will be
eastward of Danger Bocks, and may stand further to the northward.

Beating between Surf Islands and Danger Bocks, tack at about 3 cables off
the former ; and in standing towards the latter, keep Robson Island open oh
before directed, till Bed well Islets come open North of Bold Bluff, N.E.

The Coaat of Vancouver Island from Quatsino Sound to Cape Scott, the
N.W. extreme of the islanl, runs in a general W.N.W. direction about
26 miles; it is generally rocky and iron-bound, indented by several bays,
mostly small, and from the projecting points some rocks extend in parts
nearly a mile off shore. At a distance of 2 miles off there is from 20 to 8U
fathoms, sand and rock, deepening to 100 fathoms at 10 to 11 miles off shore;
to the southward of Scott Islands the lOO-fathoms line does not appear to
extend more than 6 miles from them.

In navigating between Cape Scott and Quatsino Sound, do not approach the
shore nearer than 2 miles.

Sagged Point, 3 miles from the North entrance point of Quatsino Sound, is
a rocky, rugged point of moderate height. Open Bay, which lies just inside
it, affords landing for boats in fine weather on its East side. The coast be-
tween Open Bay and the entrance to Quatsino Sound is high and cliffy ; some
rocks extend nearly a mile off it.

Top-knot Point, 5 miles N.W. of Ragged Point, is low, with a summit 300 ft.
high, shaped like a top-knot, just within it ; some rocks extend half a mile to
the southword from it. Baft Cove, 8 miles from Ragged Point, is an open
bight about a mile in extent, and affords no shelter whatever. Cape Palmer-
ston, 11 miles N.W. from Ragged Point, is a bold, rocky point, rising to u
summit 1,412 ft. high ; some rocks extend hnlf a mile from it.

SAN JOSEF BAT, the entrance to which is 14 miles N.W. from Ragged
Point, and 8 miles S.E. of Cape Scott, is on extensive open bay, 3 miles deep
in a north-easterly direction ; the breadth at the entrance is nearly 2 milev,
narrowing gradually towards the head. Its shores are high, and off the South
side are scvwral off-lying rocks ; the soundings vary from 11 to 4 fathoms, but
the bay affords no shelter whatever, except with northerly winds, and should
only be used as a stopping-place in fine weather. The best anchorugc is near
the centre, in 7 to 9 fathoms.

Sea Otter Coye, just West of 8an Josef Bay, is about a mile long in a
northerly direction, and from 2 to 3 cables wide. There is 5 fathoms in tho
entrance, and from 1 to 3 fathoms inside it, also several rocks ; the shelter
within w very indifferent, and the plnce only fit for a coaster. A cluster of
bare iblets lies off the entrance.

CAPE RUSSELL-CAPE SCOTT.

453

CAPS BV88ELL, 16 miles from Ragged Point, and immediately westward
of Sea Otter Cove, is a remarkable headland 870 ft. high, and the outer part of
a peninsula formed by Sea Otter Cove and a small bay N.W. of it. Some
rocks, which break very heavily, extend nearly a mile South of the cape.

From Cape Russell to Cape Scott the coast, from 600 to 600 ft. high, trends
in a north-westerly direction, and is indented by three open bays, which ore
nearly a mile deep, but afford no shelter whatever.

CAPE SCOTT, the N.W. point or extreme of Vancouver Island, is about
500 ft. high, and connected to the island by a low sandy neck about 1 cable
wide. Some rocks extend West of it for more than half a mile, and there is a
bay on either side of the neck, which would afford anchorage to boats or small
craft in line weather only. Close to its S.W. extreme is a rmall creek among
the rocks, difficult of access, but once within it, boats mny get shelter in
southerly gales. The water being deep close up to the rocks, Cape Scott should
always have a wide berth given to it.

Scott Islands, and the northern and eastern coasts of Vancouver Island, will
be described in the next Chapter.

'. \ I'!

1 •

1 'h

] 1

( <^< )

CHAPTER VII.

BRITISH COLUMBIA, ETC.

At the commcnccinent of the preceding Chapter a brief account is given of
the history of the hydrography of Vancouver Island, and incidentally of that
uf the main land adjacent. It will not be necessary to add much to that.
Vancouver's survey was an admirable reconnaissance of the shores of the strait,
which he made known to the world almost for the first time. But its more
important channels and features are now completely represented in the fine
series of charts executed from the surveys made by Capt. O. H. Richards,
assisted by Commander R. C. Mayne, &c., in 1859-65.

In this Chapter will be included an account of the North-east Coast of
Vancouver Island, which, lying on the channel which separates it from the
oontiuent, could not be well described except in connection with that coast.
We follow, therefore, the order in which it is given in the Vancouver Island
Pilot.

The country, as is well known, has only been comparatively recently thrown
open to the world. Prior to 1858, when the British Government resumed
possession of it from the Hudson's Bay Company, only a few posts of fur
traders existed throughout the land ; but in 1857 gold was first discovered
(although long before known to exist by the Hudson's Bay Company's officers),
by some Canadian emigrants, who successfully " prospected " the banks of
the Thompson and Bonaparte Rivers, tributary to the Eraser, and between
March and June, 1858, a rush of gold seekers crowded into the country from
California, and to this day this continues to be the chief object of its com-
merce. In 1 866 it was estimated that there were 6,000 white inhabitants on
the mainland, including 3,000 miners, who produced £600,000 value in gold
dust. The native population, most difficult to estimate, was considered to
amount to 40,000. By the census of 1881 the inhabitants of British Columbia
(including Vancouver and Queen Charlotte's Islands) numbered 49,459, the
area of the country being estimated at 465,978 square miles. The total value
of the gold produced in British Columbia between 1858 and 1882 amounted to

BRITISH COLUMBIA, ETC.

455

•bout £9,337,000. The gold fields are far inland, the principal being that
called the Cariboo.*

There exist within the limits of Brit>h Columbia large depoaita of the pre-
cious and useful metals, many of which have been systematically and profitably
mined for years, while others are only awaiting the development, of which
they are capable, to become a source of great wealth to the Province. The
list is a long one, embracing gold, silver, copper, iron, lead, cinnabar, pla-
tinum, coal, limestone, marble, and salt. — The Wett Shore, September, 1884.

A large portion of the country, especially that near the coast, is unfitted for
colonization, owing to its mountainous character.

The Catcade Range, through which the Fraser and Harrison Rivers find an
outlet to the ocean, is about 60 miles inland, and the Fraser bursts through a
gorge in it at about 15 miles above Yale in a succession of terrific rapids or
canons. This part of the river, and of the wonderful road which has been
constructed along its banks, is graphically described in the admirable book by
Lord Milton and Dr. Cheadlc.f

To the northward of Vancouver Island the coast is the weatcm seaboard of
the districts formerly known under the names of New Hanover and New Corn-
wall. The whole of it is fronted by an immense collection of islands of all
dimensions and forms. Within these is a correspondingly extensive scries of
channels and arms of the sea, forming a most complete chain of inland naviga-
tion, which may be pursued for many degrees to the northward, without
interruption or exposure to the oceanic swell. It is true that in many parts
these canals are too narrow to be very advantageous for sailing vessels to
work through, and are therefore more adapted for steam navigation than by
other modes ; yet the great depth of water, in most parts all but unfathomable,
and the boldness of the shores, make this disadvantage of less importance. One
featui-e adverted to by Vancouver, who has excellently surveyed part of this
inland navigation, and which is remarkable, is, that caution ought to be used

* The excellent Grand Trunk waggon road from Yale (the head of the navigation on the
Fraser Uiver) to the centre of the mining district of Cariboo, a total length of 376 miles,
was completed in 1866, through a country full of engineering difficulties, at an expense of
over £100,000, and is a result of which the young colony might be justly proud.

t In the higher parts of the Fraser, and indeed of all other rivers which flow into it, a
remarkable feature, which extsnds 300 miles, w described in the same work. Along the
aides of the mountains which confine tho river beds are three terraces — or benches as they
are called — perfectly level, and of exactly the same height on each side of the river,
evidently the beaches of some lake in former ages of the world's history. Thu formation
of the canon of the lower Fraser suggested their origin to the travellers. They supposed
that the g^rge through which the river now flows had been partially broken down, perhaps
by some grand convulsion of nature, at three separate intervals, and thus lowered the surface
of the lake, the surf of which had worn the beach it washed to a level strand, to the lower
levels as they now appear. See " The North-vett Pattage bp Land," by Viscount Milton,
and Dr. W. B. Cheadle, 186S, pp. 338-347.

450

BRITISH COLUMDIA, ETC.

■II

I "

!■

i:i !:

> "I)

I : !
i

in poMing oloao to soniC of the projecting points, for he found that, nciwith-
standing the perpendicularity of the oliffb componing the shores, that a shelf
would sometimes project under water, from the general line of the upper por-
tion, a hct which, if neglected, might lead to serious consequences.

Besides these channels the continent is penetrated with numerous and
peculiar canals, whose characteristics, greatly similar in all cases, will be best
gathered from the ensuing i .iSOiiptions. There are no rivers, or at least none
of importance have been dibvovered. They are mere torrents, fed in summer
by the melting of the snow, and in the winter by the untiring deluges of this
dismal climate. The Nass, the Babine, Skeena, or Skina, and Stikine, are the
only ones that may ascended to any distance, and even these only with con-
siderable difficulty and danger. It has been calculated that the shores of
British Columbia (including Vancouver and Queen Charlotte Islands) have an
extent of over 7,000 miles.

The primary discovery of the country has been before adverted to, and
many of the remarks are as applicable to this as to other portions ; but it arose
from the zeal and perseverance of two intelligent men, who traded hither
under the license of the South Sea Company. These were Capts. Portlock
and Dixon ; they made the principal discoveries on the coast subsequent to
Capt. Cook's visit in his last voyage. Their narratives are, nevertheless, too
diffuse, and abound with too much personal narrative and minutiae to afford
much general information on the country they visited. It was to the excellent
..urveys of Vancouver, in 1792, that we owed the greater part of our first
knowledge of the inland navigation and nautical information of this country,
now supplemented by the survey by Capt. G. H. Richards, R.N., and the
officers under him, in 1859 — 1865, as before mentioned.

Besides Portlock, Dixon, and Vancouver, the Spaniards surveyed a portion,
and their charts fill up the vacancies left by the others ; but of their surveys
we have no verbal description to be of service. In the voyages of Meares,
previously adverted to, there are also some notices of visitors to this coast
during the origin of the fur trade, as before explained, as arising out of the
notice afforded by Capt. Cook. Then Capt. Ingraham visited the S.E. side of
Queen Charlotte Island ; and Capt. Gray, who discovered the Columbia Biver,
first explored it in the Wathinfflon, which name he applied to it.

The Climate of the mainland coast opposite Vancouver Island differs some-
what from that of the S.E. portion of Vancouver Island. In summer the tem-
perature averages slightly higher, and in winter somewhat lower, while the
rainfall is greater immediately along the coast. The lower Fraser Valley
(New Westminster District) does not receive in summer the cold breezes from
the Olympian Mountains which blow across Victoria, nor docs it receive in
winter so much of the genial warmth of the warm ocean air. As a general
thing ice forms on the river for a short time, and snow begins to fall in
January, and continues to do so intermittently till March, the ground not being

1) !il

STRAIT OF GEOEQIA.

4S7

continuously corered with it Obsenrationi for seren conseoutire yeiirs — 1 874
to 1880— at New Westminster, give the highest maximum temperature 92°
in July, and the lowest 7^ in January, the mean annual rainfall being 59.66
inches.— 7Ae West Share, September, 1884, p. 291.

STRAIT OF OEOBOIA.— naving passed out of the Strait of Juan de Fuca
by either of the channels described in Chapter VI., pages 351 — 388, ante, when
to north-westward of a line drawn between the East point of Saturna Island
and Whitehorn Point of the main, a vessel may bo considered well in the Strait
of Georgia, but before entering upon any description of tho latter, it may be
well to offer a few remarks on the comparative merits of the two main channels
which lead into it, viz., Haro and Ro. ario Straita ; both have their advantages
and disadvantages under varying conditions.

Haro Strait is more tortuous ; the water is so deep that it would be impoa-
sible for a vessel to anchor in the main stream, and for its whole length the
tides, though not stronger, are more varying in their direction.

Rosario Strait leads by a very gentle curve almost a straight course into the
Strait of Georgia ; the depth of water, although considerable, is such that if
necessary a vessel might anchor in it. In one part it is somewhat narrower
than the narrowest parts of Haro Strait, und the tides run with equal strength;
it has its sunken rocks and dangers in an equal degree with the Haro, and
perhaps the anchorages in point of numbers and facilities for reaching them
are equal in both. Extreme care and vigilance are called for in navigating
either with a sailing vessel; to one with steam power, neither offer any
difficulties.

A glance at the chart will show that to a vessel bound from sea', or from
any of the southern ports of Vancouver Island, to the Strait of Georgia, the
Haro Channel is preferable, and it will be equally evident that to reach the
same destination from Admiralty Inlet or Pugct Sound Rosario Strait is the
most direct and desirable. Having entered, however, by either channel, the
promontory of Roberts Point will be immediately seen with its conspicuous
white-faced cliff, and appearing as an island. From the ncrthem entrance of
Haro Strait it will bear N.N.W. 11 miles ; and from the Rosario N.W. by W.
15 miles.

The general direction of the Strait of Georgia is W.N.W., and from a
position midway between Suturna and Patos Islands, 19 miles on this course
should take a vessel abreast the entrance of Fraser River, the Sand Heads
bearing N.N.E., distant 3 miles ; and for this distance the breadth of the
strait, not including the deep indentation of Semiahmoo Bay, is 10 miles. Con-
tinuing the same course for a further distance of 19 miles, will lead between
Bu-rard Inlet on the East, and Nanaimo Harbour on the West; at this
position the entrance of the former bears about N.E. ^ E. 16 miles, and the
latter S.W. i W. 7 miles.

North racific. 8 w

458

BRITISH COLUMBIA, ETC.

The breadth of tho strait, after pausing the Sand Ilcads of the Frascr, in-
creases to 14 miles; and between Nunaimo and Burrard Inlet it is 20 miles.
The depth of water is from 70 to 100 fathoms between Roberts Point and the
wcHtcrn side of the strait, and further to the westward between Burrard Inlet
and Nanaiino as much as 200 fathoms in the centre.

The dangers to bo avoided in working through the strait are, on the eastern
sliore, Koberts and Sturgeon Banks ; and on tho wcatcrn, the neighbourhood
uf Most Point, and Tumbo Island, and the coasts cf Saturna and Mayne
Islands, until beyond the entrauoc of Active Pass. A chain of reefs and rocky
islets lie parallel with this shore, in places extending nearly a mile off; and as
the bottom is rocky and irregular, with a considerable strength of tide, vessels
ure recommended not to approach it within 2 miles.

It should also be remembered that the ebb sets to the S.W., through Active
Pass, and that tide races occur in its northern entrance. Boberts Bank is
cuHily avoided, especially since tho establishment of the pile lighthouse. If
the weather is thick, when 50 fathoms is struck, a vessel will be getting very
near the edge.

The Tides, although not nearly so strong as among the Haro Archipelago,
yet run with considerable strength, as much as 3 knots, particularly during
the freshets of summer, when the Eraser River discharges an immense volume
of fresh water, which takes a southerly direction over the banks, and almost
straight for tho mouth of Active Pass. This peculiar milky-coloured water is
frequently carried quite across the strait, and is sometimes seen in the inner
channels washing the shores of Vancouver Island ; at other times it reaches
the centre of the channel only, forming a remarkable and most striking con-
trast with the deep blue waters of the Strait of Georgia.

Below the mouth of the Fraser, the tide is rather the stronger on the
western sb.^o. On the eastern side, within the line between Roberts and
Sandy Points, scarcely any tide is felt ; and vessels will gain by working up
on that shore with the ebb, where good anchorage can also be found, if
necessary.

Allowance must be made for the tides, which is not difficult, having once
entered the Strait of Georgia by daylight, and knowing which tide was
running.

The COAST of WMhington Territory, to the southward of the boundary
separating it from British Columbia, has been previously described in pages
345—348. We now commence with the promontory to the southward uf the
entrance of Fraser River.

B0BEBT8 POINT is the termination of a remarkable promontory which
stretches southerly from the delta of Fraser River. It presents a broad face
to the southward, and itf southern extreme is a little more than If mile South
of the 49th pai'Mlel of latitude, the boundary between British Columbia and
the United States : the eastern point of the promontory is a remarkable white-

nonKRTR POINT— FHASEU IlIVKll.

459

fnccd cIlfT, 200 tt. high, its iummit crowned with trees. I'^rom it the Unit
gradually fulls to the westward and terminates in Iloberts Spit, n low shin^lo
point, within which is a small space of level clear land, where a few wooden
buildings were erected on the first discovery of gold in the Froser KiTer, and
named Roherti Town ; for a few months it served as a dcp6t for the miners,
but it has long been deserted.

From this spit the coast trends to the N.N.W., with bluff shores of
moderate height for 3^ miles, when it merges into the swampy delta of the
Fraser. From most points of view, and particularly fron the southwurd,
Uoberts Point presents the appearance of an island. Shoal water and rocky
irregular bottom, on which kelp grows in summer, extends for more than a
mile E.S.K. from the white face of the point, and vessels are recommended to
give it a good berth.

Anchorage will be found on cither side of the promontory ; to the eastward
in 9 fathoms, sandy bottom, with the extreme of the white cliff bcarin;;
W.S.W. distant 1^ mile; Roberts Spit, the western termination of the pro-
montory, should be just shut in by the white cliff. To the westward of th«
spit there is fair anchorage in 8 fathoms good holding ground, with t..ji spit
extreme distant three-quarters of a mile, and in one with Mount Constitution
on Orcas Island bearing S.K. J E., a white flagstaff at the North end of the low
land of the point N.E. by E. i E., and the bare bluff of the 49° parallel or the
monument on its summit N.W. ; here the edge of the bank will be distant a
quarter of a mile, and a ship should not anchor any further to the northward,
as Roberts Bank trends rapidly to the westward.

There is a granite monument, 25 ft. high, erected on the summit of the
parallel bluff, which is only just visible from the anchorage on account of the
trees ; it marks the boundary between the British and United States posses-
sions, and is mentioned on page 348 previously.

Ships should not lie at this anchorage with strong southerly or westerly
winds, but should shift round to the eastern one, or to Semiahmoo Bay, which
is always safe, and has anchorage in almost any part.

ROBEATS BAHK, caused by the sediment deposited by fhe stream of the
Fraser River, extends from the spit of Roberts Point in a W. by N. direction
for 9^ miles, to the Sand Heads or river entrance, and at this point is 5 miles
from the shore ; it then takes a N.N.W. direction for a further distance of 12
miles, joining Grey Point on the North, as it does Roberts Point on the South.
The portion of the bank northward of the Fraser has been named Sturgeon
Bank; it is steep-to, and a mile outside the edge the soundings are from
70 to 60 fathoms, shoaling thence to 20, and immediately after to 2 fathoms.
By night the edge of this bank will be cleared by not bringing the light on
Atkinson Point, Burrard Inlet, to bear westward of North.

FBASEB RIVER, in point of magnitude and present commercial im-
portance, is second only te the Columbia on the N.W. coast of America. Iix

;

BRITISH COLUMnlA.

iu great freedom from risk of life and shipwreck, it pomessei infinite ndvnn-
tngcs over nny other river on the coast, and the cause of this immunity from
the dangers and inconTeniences to which all great rivers emptying themselves
on an exposed coast are suhject, is sufficit-iitly obvious. A sheltered strait,
scarcely 15 miles across, receives its wutei^ ; and thn neighbouring Island of
Vancouver serves as a natural breakwater, preventing the possibility of any sea
■rising which would prove dongeroua to vessels even of the smallest class,
unless they ground.

To the same cause may bo attributed in a great meaaure the fixed and almost
unvarying character of the shoals through which this magnificent stream
pursues its undevious course into the Strait of Georgia ; and there can be little
doubt that it is destined, at no distant period, to fulfil to the utmost, as it in
already partially fulfilling, the purpoauii for which nature ordained it — the out-
let for the products of a great country, whose riches in mineral and agricultural
wealth are dally being more fully discovered and developed.

llie river, with its numerous tributaries, has its rise in the Rocky Moun-
tains, between 400 and 500 miles from the coast in a northerly direction, from
whence it forces its way in torrents ond rapids, through oin» of the many great
parallel valleys which intersect this region, conhucd by gigantic mountains,
with large tracts of country, rich in agricultural resources on either side of
them, until it reaches the town of Hope,* which is about 80 miles by the
windings of the river, in an easterly direction from its entrance. A deposit of
silver ore has lately been discovered near Hope.

Above the City of Lytton, which stands at the fork or confluence of the
Eraser and Thompson Rivers, 55 miles above Hope, many rich deltas occur, or
as they are termed by the miners, bars, and among these, known as the wet
diggings, gold was first discovered in British Columbia.

At Hope the river assumes the character of a navigable stream ; steamers of
light draught reach this point and even the town of Yale, 1 5 miles above it,
during from six to nine months of the year. The Hudson's Bay Company
have a station at Yale. In June, July, and August, the melting of the snow
causes so rapid a downward stream that vessels, even of high steam power, are
rarely able to stem it, and during these months numbers of large trees are
brought down from the flooded banks, which offer another serious obstruction
to navigation. Between Hope and Langley, the latter 30 miles from the
river's mouth, there is always a considerable strength of current from 4 to 7
knots, at times more ; but at Langley the river becomes a broad, deep, and
placid stream, and except during the three summer months, the influence of
the flood stream is generally felt, and vessels of any draught may conveniently
anchor. The depth is 10 fathoms ; the current not above 3 knots.

* Hope is nn old atation of the Hudton's Bay Company. Its lite i^ the most beautiful
in British Columbia — a wooded level shut in by an amphitheatre of lofty mountains — Yalf
upon a grnnder scale.— Viscount Milton and Dr. Cheadle, p. 348.

a ship
rises ra
with tij
these sil
coveret
Langley
The usi
from thi
more th
Froi
Septemj
Noveml
sufficier
abated.
Decembj
and thel
drawing!

fharku nivRft.

4A1

Midway between T^ngley and Hope the Ilnrrinon River fnll» into the
FraRer and by it, a long chain of lakea extending in n general N.W. direotion,
n compnratirely enay route has been eatabliBhed, by which the Upper Fraaer
ift reached at a point just below Bridge Uiver, in the heart of the gold region,
thus avoiding that difficult and at present almost impaMable part of the country
between the town of Yale and the Fountains, by the main river a distance of
about 00 miles.

Vessels of moderate draught may enter the Frnser neor high water, and pro-
ceed as high as Langley (or Derby) with ease, during the summer season,
provided they have or are assisted by steam power. The only diffic\ilty is
between the Sand Heads and Garry Point, the entrance proper of the river,
but while there are competent pilots, and the buoys remain in their powitions,
this difficulty disappears. The lighthouse is a sufficient guide for making the
entrance. It must be remembered, however, that tht tidea of the Strait of
Uoorgia sweep across the channels of the entrance, and a large ship is recom-
mended to enter or leave with the last quarter of the flood.

The great quantity of deposit b ^ught down by the freshets of summer, has
created an eztensiivc series of uudks, which extend 5 miles outhlde the entrance
])roper of the river. ''' o main stream has forced two almost straight though
somewhat narrow channels through these bonks, and at its junction with the
current of the Strait of Georgia, which runs at right angles to it, has caused
the wall-edged bank before alluded to, extending to Koberts Point on the
South and Grey Point on the North.

The river is at its lowest stage during the months of January, February, and
March. In April it commences to rise from the melting of the snows, and is
perhaps 2 ft. above its lowest level ; the flood stream is strong enough to swing
a ship at New Westminster up to the end of this month. In May the water
rises rapidly, the river is at its highest about the end of June, and remains up
with trifling fluctuations until the end of July or middle of August. During
these six weeks the banks are overflowed, and the extensive plains above Langley
covered for a space of several miles ; the strength of the stream between
Langley and Hope being from 4 to 7 knots, and in the narrow parts even more.
The usual rise of the river at Langley due to these floods is about 14 ft., but
from the testimony of an officer of the Hudson's Bay Company, who resided
more than thirty years there, it has been known to reach 25 feet.

From''^he middle to the end of August the waters begin to subside, and in
September the stream is not inconveniently strong. September, October, and
November are favourable months for the river navigation, as the water is then
sufficiently high to reach Hope, and the strength of the current considerably
abated. The shallow stern-wheel steamers have got to Hope as late ns
December; between this month und April, owing to the shoalncNs of the water,
and the great quantity of ice formed, navigation even by these vessels, only
drawing 18 inches, ia attended with great difficulty, and it rarely practioabl«

46i

BRITISH COLTTMfilA.

at all. The snags or drift trees which become imbedded in the river, also
form a serious obstacle to navigation at this season.

In April, the steamers commence again to run. In June, July, and August,
the rapidity of the current is the great obstacle, but these high-pressure
vessels, commanding a speed of 11 and 12 knots, frequently accomplish the
voyage, though at much risk.

The Harrison Biver route (page 461) obviates some, but not all, of these
difficulties. At New Westminster the freshets raise the level of the river about
6 ft., but the banks being high no inconvenience is felt, and the strength of
the stream is rarely 5 knots, during the winter 2 to 3 knots ; for some miles
within the entrance the low banks are partially flooded for a month or six
weeks. The rise and fall due to tidal causes is from 8 to 10 ft. at springs,
between the Sand Heads and the entrance of the river proper at Garry Point ;
at New Westminster it is 6 ft., and at Langley scarcely perceptible.

IIOHTHOTJSE.— On the S.W. end of Sturgeon Bank, and between the two
channels into the river, is a pile lighthouse, 49 ft. high, from which is shown
ajixeri bright light, elevated 52 ft. above high water, and visible 12 miles. A
Bell is sounded in foggy weather. Lat. 45° 9' N., long. 123° 16' W.

This light, first exhibited in May, 1884, supersedes that formerly shown from
a lightvessel, which was moored off the entrance.

There are no natural marks sufficiently well defined, or which are not too
distant, or too liable to be obscured in cloudy weather, to enable a vessel by
their help alone to hit the narrow entrances between the Sand Heads with
accuracy, or without the aid afforded by the pile lighthouse on the South Sand
Head. A large spar buoy is placed on the South Sand Head, at 8 cables
8. ^ W. from the lighthouse, and the northern edge of the channel within is
marked by smaller buoys.

When up with the lighthouse at the entrance, a remarkable solitary bushy
tree will be seen on Garry Point, the northern entrance point of the river
proper, stra'ght for which is the general direction of the southern or old
channel. It bears from between the ^ ind Heads N.N.E. a little easterly, and
is just 5 miles distant. Although to steer direct for this tree would not clear
the outer edges of either bank for the whole length of the channel, yet it will
be found an excellent guide, to give almost the straight line in, should the
buoys be removed.

The South Sand Head dries before low water, and has frequently a ripple
on it when covered. The lighthouse bearing about N. by W. ^ W. leads to the
entrance, and when up to the buoys, those on the port or North side of the
channel should be kept from half a cable to u cable on the port hand. The
least depth in the channel was 11 or 12 ft. at low water, and this occurred
about midway between the Sand Heads and Garry Point ; but in August,
1884, notice was given that there was only 5 ft. water in this channel, at low
Muter, summer spring tides.

FRASER RIVER— NEW WESTMINSTER.

463

In August, 1884, the Canadian Government gave notice that a new channel
had formed through the Sand Heads, with a depth of 8 ft. at low water,
summer spring tides, and that it has been marked with black spar buoys,
numbered consecutively from 1 to 9. The Sand Heads lighthouse bears
S.E. i^ S. from No. 1 buoy, distant 19 cables. A red buoy is moored on the
South Sand Head.

Vessels making for the new channel should, to clear the Sand Heads, keep
on the line of Leading Peak, on Anvil Island in Howe Sound, just open west-
ward of Passage Island, bearing N. by W. } W., until Garry Bush (Leading
Tree) bears N.E. by E., when it should be steered for ; leave the black buoys
a quarter of a cable on the port hand, and after passing No. 9 buoy, steer for
No. 15 fairway buoy, which may be left on either hand, and thence to Garry
Point, which should be passed close.

There is always a great quantity of drift wood on the point, and the
northern side of the river should be kept aboard for nearly 2 miles, where from
8 to 10 fathoms will be found ; it is then necessary to cross to the South side,
and to keep close along it, passing the mouth of the South or Boat Channel,
nearly 2 miles above which, and abreast a clump of high trees, cross again
to the North bank to the left of two low sandy islands ; the channel then
leads rather along the North side of the river, and with the assistance of the
chart will be found sufficiently easy for vessels of 20 ft. draught until 6 or 7
miles above Langley,

It is not, however, recommended for a stranger to enter without a pilot.

NEW WESTMINSTER, at first chosen as the capital of British Columbia,
a dignity now i,edcd to Victoria, stands on the North or right bank of the
Fraser River, just above the junction of the North Fork, and 15 miles in a
general north-easterly direction from the entrance proper. It occupies a com-
manding and well chosen position, being within an easy distance of the entrance,
and having great facilities for wharfage along its water frontage, a good depth
of water, and excellent anchorage.

The river bank is somewhat precipitous in places, and the country at the
back is densely wooded, like all the lower parts of the Fraser, unless, indeed,
in the immediate neighbourhood of the entrance, where it is swampy grass
land, subject to inundation during the freshets of summer ; a considerable
clearing, however, of the timber has taken place in the vicinity of the town,
which has a prominent and thriving aspect, and when the facilities for
entering the river and its capabilities are better known, will no doubt rise
more rapidly into importance. Seve^'al roads connect it with Burrard
Inlet.

At present the principal industry at New Westminster !s the canning of
salmon, with which the river abounds. Sturgeon and the oulachan or candle-
iish are olso abundant. There are also some saw-mills here. There is com-
munication with ViotoiJ \ by steamer twice a week, and the telegraph cable.

4C4

BRITISH COLUMBIA.

crossing the Strait of Georgia to Nanaimo, is connected with the line across the
continent to Montreal, &c.

The western end of the Canadian Pacific Railway extends along the northern
and western banks of the river from near New Westminster to beyond Lytton,
where it crosses the river by a fine bridge. As before stated, the railway is
expected to be completed early in 1886.

The military establishment or camp of the Boyal Engineers, a mile above
New Westminster, is a most picturesque spot, commanding an uninterrupted
view of the Queen's Reach, a broad, deep, and magnificent sheet of water.
From the camp to Port Moody, an excellent harbour at the head of Burrard
Inlet, the distance is 4 miles in a North direction ; a good road exists between
the two places, and a waggon-road to Coal Harbour at the entrance of the
inlet. At 5 miles eastward of New Westminster is the entrance to Pitt River,
which runs in a general direction from N.N.E. to N.E. for 28 miles, ter-
minating in two remarkable lakes enclosed between almost perpendicular
mountains, and navigable to the head for vessels of 14 ft. draught, the depth
in places being far too great for anchorage. A large tract of low grass land
lies on both sides of the entrance of the Pitt, which, however, is generally
overflowed, or partially so, during six weeks of summer.

Derby or New Langley is 12 miles above New Westminster in an easterly
direction, on the South or opposite side of the river ; the channel between is
deep, and there are no impediments to navigation. The spot was first selected
as the capital, and as a town site it is unobjectionable, having a considerable
tract of good cleared land in its neighbourhood, and all the requirements of a
commercial port ; the depth of water here is 10 fathoms. Large vessels may
proceed with ease 7 miles beyond Langley ; the navigation then becomes
somewhat intricate, and the current too rapid for any vessels but steamers of
light draught and great power. Above this there are numerous settlements
on the banks of the river.

The NOETH FORK is another entrance to the Eraser, navigable for
vessels drawing 6 or 8 ft. water, and is generally used by the natives proceed-
ing to or from Burrard Inlet. Its junction with the main stream occurs imme-
diately below New Westminster, from whence it runs in a westerly direction,
and enters the Strait of Georgia through Sturgeon Bank, about 5 miles north-
ward of the Sand Heads ; a large low partially wooded island lies in ita en-
trance, and splits the channel into two arms.

In many parts of the North Fork the water is deep, in holes, and the bottom
irregular ; it can only be considered a boat channel.

BUBBASD INLET is the first great harbour which indents the shores of
British Columbia North of the 49th parallel. It is the lirazo de Florida
Blanca of (ialiano and Valdez. Its entrance, which is between Grey Point on
the South and Atkinson Point on the North, is 14 miles N.N.W. from the Sand
Heads of Eraser River, 21 miles N. by E. from Portier Pass, and 22 miles

,i'

BURllAED INLET— ENGLISH BAY.

465

N.E. i E. from Entrance Island of Nanaimo. Howe Sound immediately
adjoins it on the North, Atkinson Point, the northern entrance point of the
inlet, being the eastern limit of the sound.

The entrance of the inlet is well marked ; Grei/ Point, a long wooded pro-
montory terminating in a rounded bluff, is very conspicuous from the south-
ward, while Bowen Island, which lies at the entrance of Howe Sound, and may
also be said to form the northern boundary of the inlet, is very remarkable ;
its high round and almost bare summit. Mount Gardner, reaching an elevation
of 2,183 ft., is easily recognised from any point of view. Passage Island,
small but prominent, lies in the eastern passage of Howe Sound, midway
between Bowen Island and Atkinson Point, and is an excellent mark from the
southward ; Anvil Peak, on with or just open westward of this island bearing
N. by W. 5 W., clears the edge of the Sturgeon Bank. A telegraph cable
from Xaiiaimo is landed at Grey Point.

The LIGHTHOUSE on Atkinson Point is a square wooden building, 58 ft.
high, showing a rcvolvimj bright light, attaining its greatest brilliancy once
every minute, elevated 110 ft. above high water, and visible 14 miles. Lat.
•19-^ 10' 40' N., long. 123^ 16' W.

When in the vicinity of Eraser Eiver, vessels will avoid Sturgeon Bank by
not bringing this light to bear westward of North.

Uurrard Inlet difTcrs from most of the great sounds of this coast in being
extremely easy of access to vessels of any size or class, and in the convenient
depth of water for anchorage which may be found in almost every part of it;
its close proximity to Eraser llivcr likewise adds considerably to its importance.
Owing to these advantages, and from its possession of unbounded pine forests,
some saw-mills have been established here, which now produce large quantities
of excellent timber, especially from the valuable Douglas pine, which is
shipped to various parts of the world. Masts of this timber have been shipped
which were 130 ft. long, and 42 inches in diameter, hewn octagonally. It is
divided into three distinct harbours, viz., English Bay, or the outer anchorage.
Coal Harbour above the Pirst Narrows, and Port Moody at the head of the
eastern arm of the inlet. The woods around it abound in deer, &c.

English Bay is more than 3 miles in breadth at the entrance between Grey
and Atkinson Points, which bear from each other N.N.W. and S.S.E., and
carries the same breadth for nearly its entire length or almost 4 miles ; it is
contracted in some measure, however, by Spanin/t Bank, dry at low water,
which extends in a northerly direction from Grey Point three-quarters of a
mile, and then curves easterly. The N.W. edge of the bank is marked by a
red nun buoy, moored in 7 fathoms.

This anchorage is well protected from westerly winds by Spanish 'lank, and
as there is a good rise and fell of tide, as much as IC ft. at springs, and n clean
shelving sandy beach at the creek, it would be a desirable place to beach a
North Pacijic. 3

I'iLjl

'i^tM

■'^Ijw

v^:l3

466

BBITISH COLUMBIA.

ship for repairs. The head of English Bay on the South shore terminates in
a shoal arm, named Falte Creek ; on the North shore it leads by the First
Natrows to Coal Harbour. A convenient anchorage will bo found half a mile
from the South shore of a small creek, near the centre of the bay, with the
extreme of Coal FeninsuUi bearing N. by £., in 7 or 8 fathoms, or higher up
if desired.

In 1881 it was announced that a yaluable seam of coal had been discovered,
cropping out on the face of a sandstone cliff in the Imperial Naval Beserve on
English Bay, at 1 mile from Coal Harbour.

Vessels intending to pass above the Narrows must attend to the tides, and a
stranger will do well to anchor in English Bay before proceeding higher up.

The First Narrow* lie between the bluff of Coal Peninsula and the North
side of the iulet, where the breadth of the channel is not more than 1^ cable,
with a depth of 12 fathoms. When at the entrance of the Narrows, the mid-
channel course is E. by S. i S. for 1| mile, when the broad inlet is again
rcnched. The Narrows are li If a mile long, and then gradually open out to
half a mile in width, abreast of Brockton Point.

The strength of the tide in the narrowest part of the First Narrows is from
4 to 8 knots. The only directions necessary for a steamer are to keep the
South shore aboard, and to be quick and careful with the helm ; small craft
may go through with ease, the tide being favourable ; to a sailing ship a
knowledge of the locality is necessary.

It is high water nt Burrard Inlet, on full and change, at G p.m. ; and the
rise is IG ft. The ebb stream commences directly it is high water by the
shore, and runs out for two hours after it is low. There is consequently only
4 hours' flood stream.

COAL HARBOUR is on the South side of Burrard Inlet, 2 miles within the
First Narrows, and, on the completion of the trans-continental Canadian
Paeifiu Railway, of which Coal Harbour is to be the western terminus, it is
expected to become of great importance. The Railway Company is negotiating
for a large tract of land contiguoiu to Coal Harbour, English Bay, and False
Creek, for the formation of wharfs, docks, and other shipping facilities. The
city which is expected to arise here is to be named Vuncouver. The railway
will probably be completed early in the year 1886, the distance from Montreal
being 2,862 miles, and it is calculated that the distance between Liverpool
and Yokohama, Japan, will be shorter by 900 miles than vi& San Francisco.
It is intended to establish a line of steamers to China, Japan, &c,, on the
railway being opened.

Gas Town, with about 200 inhabitants, is situated on the East side of the
harbour, and a small steamer plies between this village and Moody saw-mills
on the northern side of the inlet. At Hastings saw-mill, on the East point of
fthe harbour, arc several piers for the convenience of vessels loading lumber,
with a depth of 25 ft. alongside the largest one, Wood for steaming purposes

• Moit
hu b«en
Oregon,
ductiuns,

BUBRARD INLET— COAL HAEBOUR— PORT MOODY. 4G7

cnn be procured in abundance ; the water is of bad quality. A powerful
steam-tug is available for towing purposes between Juan de Fuca Strait and
Burrard Inlet.

The scat of tho greatest lumbering industries in the Province is Burrnrd
Tnlet, where arc two large mills manufacturing for foreign exportation. The
Hastings Saw-mill Company cuts about 15,000,000 ft. annually, frequently
filling orders for special timbers of enormous size ; some have been cut tw.'uty-
eight inches square and 110 ft. long. The Moody ville Saw-mill Company cuts
nearly 20,000,000 ft. annually and employs about 100 men, having numerous
electric lights for night work. Cargoes of lumber arc sent to China, Australia,
&c., and spars to England. Another mill is located at Port Moody.*

Coal Harbour is easy of access for vessels of the largest draught at all stages
of the tide, and affords excellent landlocked anchorage. Vessels entering Coal
Harbour from English Bay should keep the South shore of the First Narrows
aboard within 2 cables, when past the narrowest part, until abreast Brockton
Point, the West point of Coal Harbour, when steer E. by S. for half a mile to
avoid Burnahy Shoal, a 9-ft. patch with kelp on it, lying 3 cables E. J S. from
the point. It is usually marked by a buoy, which is liable to break adrift.
The houses N.W. of Brockton Point open North of that point leads North of
the shoal.

Having cleared Burnaby Shoal, haul in South for the anchorage in 8 fathoms,
at one-third of n mile from the shore. The best anchorage is in 10 to 12
fathoms, with the North extreme of the piers at Hastings Mill bearing E.N.E.,
and the long floating landing-stnge at Gas Town, S. by W. ; here a vessel will
be out of the influence of the strong tidal streams. An islet lies near the
centre of the inner western part of the harbour, and within this the har-
bour dries.

Between the First and Second Norrows, a distance of 4} miles, the course
of tho inlet is E. i N., varying in breadth from half to 1} mile. The Second
Narrows arc similar to the First. On the North side is a bank similar to that
on the North side of the First Narrows, but more extensive, caused by the
deposit brought down from the high mountains by tho numerous streams
which empty themsel*. «.'!» into the inlet on the North side. The channel is
straight, and the tides which run from 3 to 7 knots set fairly through it. Tho
only directions necessary are to keep the South shore close aboard, and steer
from point to point.

Fort Moody. — The entrance of this snug harbour is 4 miles eastward of the
Second Narrows, at the head of the eastern arm of the inlet. It is 3 miles in

* Most of the kbove information, with much relating to other pnrta of Briii.-h Columbia,
has been obtained from tho " West Shore," of Suptomber, 1S84, ptillished nt Portland,
Oregon. Tbu number conttdna a very interesting account of the rrorince nnd itc pro>
ductions,

468

BRITISH COLUMBIA, ETC.

' I

length, and vnries in breadth from a third to half a mile, except nt its rntrnnco,
where it is only 2 cables across ; there arc no dangers, nnd a uniform depth of
water, with good holding ground. Abreast the turning point, and on the
North shore, where it changes its direction from N.K. by K. ^ E. to E. by 8.,
a bank dries off it for nearly 2 cables at low water, on which good oysters arc
found. The best anchorage is in the widest part of the harbour, just before
reaching the arm which turns E. by S., in 5 to G fathoms, about half a mile
from the road leading to New Westminster. It was at first proposed to make
Port Moody the terminus of the railway, but it has had to give way to the
superior advantages of English Bay and Coal Harbour, at the entrance of ti»c
inlet. A wharf has been constructed here reaching into 2G ft. water.

North Arm, just before reaching Port Moody, and 3 miles above the Second
Narrows, branches off from the main inlet, and runs in a general northerly
direction for 1 1 miles. It is entirely different in its character from other por-
tions of the inlet. The depth of water varies from 50 to 110 fathoms, and it is
enclosed on both sides by rugged mountains rising from 2,000 to 5,000 't.
almost perpendicularly, and down the steep sides of which the melting snow
in summer forces its way in foaming cascades, rendering the surface water in
the inlet below all but fresh.

winter months fresh water is to bo obtained ir

ing

parts

rard Inlet, and probably the whole year round there would be no scarcity ; in
June there is abundance at the creek in English Bay, off which is the an-
chorage. In Port Moody there is a fine stream close to the oyster bank.

SOUTHERN SHORE OF THE STRAIT OF GEORGIA.

OABBIOLA REEFS arc a dangerous cluster of rocks, some of which cover
nt half fiood, others having a few feet water over them. They lie 2 miles off
the eastern point of Gabriola Island, mentioned on page 388, ante, 8 miles
below the entrance of Nanainio Harbour, and cover a space of half a mile.
From the North point of Portier Pass, the outer extreme of the reef bears
N.W. i N. 8 miles; and from the easternmost of the Flat-top Islands, a
group of low wooded islets lying close off the East end of Gabriola Island,
E. i S. 1^ mile. On the largest ledge, which covers at G ft. rise of tide, is an
iron beacon, 26 ft. high, surmounted by a cage, and painted black. There is
a passage inside the reefs, but it is not recommended.

Thrasher Rock, at nearly G cables N. by E. ^ E. from the beacon on
Gabriola Reefs, and about 2 cables off the end of the reefs, has recently been
found in the kelp ; it dries IJ ft. at low water, spring tides, and between it
nnd the reefs there appeared to be a depth of about 5 fathoms, rocky bottom.
A conical black buoy is moored in 11 J fathoms, 1 ca'uio N.E, of the rock.

OABRIOLA REEFS— NANAIMO HARBOUR.

469

The mprks most convenient for vessels coming from the southward nrc to
keep the North and S.W. entrance points of I'orticr I'uss just touching, on a
bearing S.E. by S. } S., which will lead more than a mile eastward, and
working up Berry Foint well open of Flat-top Islands, W. i S., leads about

1 mile northward of Gabriola Reefs and Thrasher Rock. By night the light
on Entrance Island forms a good mark for avoiding these dangers; when
bearing W. J S., it I ads about a mile north-eastward of Thrasher Rock.

Westward of Flat-top Island the shore of Gabriola is bold until near Berry
Point and Entrance Island, when it should not be approached within a long
half mile. Foul ground extends for some distance eastward of the point of
the island.

Entrance Island lies half a mile N.N.E. of Berry Foint, the N.E. extreme
of Gabriola Island. It is rocky, 30 ft. high, formed of sandstone, bare of
trees, but has some vegetation on it. Vessels passing up the strait bound for
Nanaimo should round this island. There is a deep passage between it and
Berry Point named Fortcood Channel, something more than 2 cables in
breadth, which steamers and small craft may use ; but the South and West
sides of Entrance Island must be avoided, as reefs and broken ground extend

2 cables off them.

The LIOHTHOTTSE on Entrance Island ig a square wooden towei, 50 ft.
high, painted white ; from it is shown a Jixed bright light, elevated G5 ft.
above high water, and visible 14 miles. Latitude 49° 12' 50" N., longitude
123° 48' 45" W.

Having rounded this island at the distance of half a mile, or more if con-
venient, the entrance of Nanaimo Harbour will be distant 5 miles. There arc
three channels leading to the harbour, viz.. Fairway, Middle, and Inner.
Fairway Channel is the most convenient for vessels bound to Nanaimo from
the southward or eastward ; but Middle Channel is certainly the safest and
most desirable for vessels from the northward.

Fairway Channel is the most direct for vessels entering from the south-
ward or eastward. It lies between the shore of Gabriola and Ltyhlhounv
Island, which is a smooth-topped, grassy, sandstone island, 3 cables in extent
North and South, about 60 ft. high, and bears from Entrance Island W. by
S. i S. 3 miles. A ledge of rocks, 4 cables long in a North and South direc-
tion, lies E.S.E. neorly half a mile from the island, with a depth of 9 ft. on its
northern edge, and 20 ft. on its southern. The ledgj is generally covered
with streaming kelp, and has a channel of 7 fathoms water between it and the
island ; its North edge bears from the South point of Lighthouse Island
N.E. by E. 3 cables, and its South end E.S.E., nearly half a mile.

The breadth of Fairway Channel between this ledge and Rocky Point of
Gabriola Island is full three-quarters of a mile. For a distance of 2 cables off
the latter point from 4 to 7 fathoms, rocky bottom, will be found, where occa-
sionally kelp grows, but nothing exists which would bring a ship up. A mid-

-n

1 ;»

hi!

470

VANCOUVER ISLAND.

channel course ia recommended, which from a berth holf o mile off Entrance
Island is S.W. i W. for 3 miles. The water is deep, and the bottom irrcgiilnr,
varying from 1£ to 40 fathoms. If to the southward of mid-chnnncl it will
shoal to 15 fathoms, and shortly to 8 fathoms off Rocky Point.

Direotiont, — Having entered the Strait of Georgia, between Eost Point of
Satuma and Patos Island, a W.N.W. course for 38 miles will Icod nearly 3
miles outside Gabriola Reefs, and abreast Entrance Island, the latter bearing
S.W., distant 6 miles. A vessel proceeding through Fairway Channel, if
northward of mid-channel must keep a look-out for the kelp on Lighthouse
Island ledge; when Lighthouse Island bears N.W. steer S. ^ W., which leads
for the entrance of Nanaimo Harbour, distant a little over 2 miles. Strangers
should be careful not to mistake it for Northumberland Channel, which latter
lies from Lighthouse Island in a S.S.E. direction, between the high cliffy
West coast of Gabriola Island and Sharp Pom*, a remarkable narrow projec-
tion on the main, and off which, at the distance of half a cable, is a rock which
uncovers.

Having passed between Lighthouse and Gabriola Islands, there is a good
working space oi \^ mile in breadth, between Gabriola on the East and
Newcastle and Protection Islands on the West, but the water is too deep for
anchorage. The shores of the latter islands should not be approached within
a quarter of a mile, as shoal rocky ledges extend off them. Having brought
Gallows Point, the southern extreme of Protection Island, to bear S.W. ^ W.,
the town will open out.

A vessel may anchor, if necessary, with the high-water mark of Gallows Point
bearing W.N.W. , distant a quarter of a mile, which will be in the fuirway of
the entrance, but it is di£Scult for a sailing vessel to pick up a berth here with
a strong breeze, as the space for anchorage is confined.

NANAIMO HABBOUB, when the banks are covered, gives the idea of a
large sheet of water, but the deep part is limited. The entrance lies between
Gallows Point and the southern bank. A rocky ledge extends for 1^ cable on
every side of the point, and in summer is marked by kelp ; a large boulder
stands on the ledge off the point, distant 150 yards, and covers before high
water. The South side of the channel is the northern edge of the great
shallow bay to the southward, which, although it does not quite dry in this
part, has only 2 or 3 ft. on it at low water, and is steep-to. The entrance is
here marked on either side by a buoy about a cable apart in a North and
South direction ; within them the harbour opens out, but in its centre is the
Middle Bank, 2 cables long in a northerly direction, and half a cable broad,
with a buoy on either end of it. Two narrow winding channels, the North
and South, lead into the usual anchorngo, which is close off the town, and
westward of the Middle Bank. Both arc buoyed in the vicinity of the latter,
but no ctrauger should enter either channel without a pilot. The buoys are

i -i

NANAIMO HARBOUR— DEPARTURE BAY.

471

conical, those on the North sides of the channels being black and bearing a
'all, lUid those on the South sides red, and bearing a triangle.

A remarkable white patch on the cliffy shore of Gabriola Island just open
northward of the extreme of Sharp Point, the latter bearing E. by N. | N., leads
through the channel until near Qallows Point, which should be rounded at a
little more than a cable's length. In the North channel two buoys will then
be seen, a cable's length apart, the southern one on the North end of the
Middle Bank, the North one on the South edge of Satellite Ueef ; steer about
West to pass between them, then haul close round the southern buoy, and
steer for the Mine Chimney. Anchor close off the town in 5 fathoms, midway
between the buoy and Seacon liock, which dries at low water, and has a
beacon on it, consisting of a staff and ball. The South channel, though of
sufficient depth for large vessels, has a somewhat sharp turn at its western end,
but is very convenient for vessels leaving with a northerly wind, when they
would be obliged to warp out of the North channel.

The town of Nanaimo, the second most important settlement on Vancouver
Island, was founded by the Hudson's Bay Company, in 1852. It is situated
on the shore of the bay, and now has an increasing population of over 2,000,
mostly engaged in the mining and shipping of the excellent bituminous coal
found in abundance in the locality. The coal is shipped from a wharf,
supplied with chutes, which arc capable of shipping 1,000 tons per day, being
connected with the collieries by railway. Steam-tugs can be obtained for
towing. There are also several other wharves here, a ship-yard, &c. A
telegraph cable extends across the Strait of Georgia to Point Grey, thus con-
necting Vancouver Island with New Westminster, and the line across
Canada; and it is intended to construct a railway to Esquimalt, as before
stated.

COAL. — The mines of Nanaimo and Wellington produce a good bituminous
coal, which answers well for steaming purposes. It is lighter by about 10 per
cent, than Welsh coal, and its consumption is proportionately rapid, but from
tests made by II.M. Ships, the War Department of the United States, &c., it
has been found to be far superior to any other coal found on the coast. The
demand for it is rapidly increasing. It is now exported to California in lai^e
quantities, over 169,000 tons having been shipped to San Francisco in 1880;
about 120,000 tons were shipped to that port in 1883. Besides this, cargoes
are also sent to the Sandwich Islands and China.

Besides being far superior to any that has yet been discovered or worked
in this country, there can be little doubt but that this coal exists in sufficient
quantities to supply the whole Pacific coast for almost an indefinite period.

DEFARTUBE BAT. — A long narrow channel or arm between Newcattle
Island and the main leads in a N.W. direction from Nanaimo Harbour to
Departure Bay. It is IJ mile in length, and a cable in breadth, with 12 ft.
at low water, except on a rock, which has only 2 ft. on it, lying in the centre,

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472

VANCOUVER ISLAND.

' .'

2 cables nortli-wcstwnrd of IJocky I'oint, the Soutli point of NewcaBtle Island.
A red buoy is moored on this rock, and a similar buoy is placed in 15 ft., on
the N.E. edge of the bank extending off the entrance to Mill Creek. Vessels
of IJj or 16 ft. draught may enter Departure Bay by this channel at suitable
times of tide, but largo vessels must enter northward of Newcastle Island.
Coal is found on this island, and has been worked.

From Lighthouse Island, the entrance of Deporturo Bay bears S.W. J W.,
distant 2 miles, and lies between the steep cliffy North point of Newcastle
Island, and Jesse Islet to the northward of it. The breadth of this channel is

3 cables, and the depth 20 fathoms. Little less than this depth will be found
in any part of the bay, and it is not nearly so sheltered as Nanaimo Harbour.
The western edge of the shoal in the S.E. part of this bay, extending from the
shore of Newcastle Island, is marked by a red beacon buoy moored in 6
fathoms, at 1^ cable N.W. of the entrance to the channel leading to Nauaimo
Harbour.

Vessels intending to load with coal (and there is no other inducement to
anchor here), and having to wait for a cargo, should bring the steep North
point of Newcastle Island to bear N. by E., and anchor in not less than
18 fathoms, off the coal mine, 2 cables from the shore; the bank runs up steep
within this depth, and shoals from 12 to 2 fathoms. Unless anchored well
out, a vessel is liable, with N.W. winds, to tail on the bank ; and ships arc
not recommended to lie here after they have got their cargo in. A stranger
should take a pilot for the coaling station iu Departm-c Bay, cither Hum out-
side or in Nanaimo Harbour.

Departure Bay has accommodation for a large amount of shipping, and there
are usually numerous vessels here loading coal from the wharves, which have
a depth of 5 to 7 fathoms alongside them, and are capable of supplying about
1,500 tons daily. Buoys are placed off the wharves, to enable vessels to warp
alongside. The coal is brought by railway from the Wellington mines, about
5 miles inland.

Middle Channel lies between Lighthouse and Five-Jinger Island, 1 \ mile
W.N.W. from it. The latter is a bare rugged islet of about the same dimen-
sions as the former, but of trap formation, instead of sandstone ; the five hum-
mocks on it resemble knuckles more than fingers. The channel is perfectly
free from danger, and has a depth of 80 fathoms.

S.8.W. of Five-finger Island are three smallar islets of similar character
and formation, with some rocks about them which uncover. Inner Channel,

4 cables in breadth, lies between the above islets and the shore of the main,
and being more direct than the channel between them and Five-finger Island,
is convenient for steamers or small craft.

Tides. — It is high water at Nanaimo Barbour, on full and change, at about
S** p.m., and the range of tide is sometimes 16 ft., which is as much as is met
with any\. lerc on the coast, and mokes this a most eligible spot for the con-

'I'Jie

tiiW <

NORTH UMBKIIL AND CHANNEL— STRAIT OF GEORGIA. 473

Btruction of docks, for which it offera peculiar facilities. This great range of
tide only occurs at midnight during winter, and in the daytime in summer.
The superior and inferior tides exist here as they do at Esquimau and among
the Haro Archipelago. On the opposite coast, at liurrord Inlet, this irregu-
larity docs not exist.

NORTHUMBERLAND CHANNEL, before mentioned as lying between
Sharp Point and the western shore of Gabriola Island, runs in a S.E. direction
for 1 i mile, and then East for 2 miles, when it enters the Dodd and False
Narrows, the former on the South side of Mudgc Island, the latter on tho
Nortli ; a rock which uncovers extends half u cable off tlio extreme of Sharp
Point. False Xiirroics are shoal, with no ship passage, but there is excellent
anchorage in 7 to 10 fathoms in Percy Bay, at their western entrance.

Dodd Narrows have already been described from the southward (p. 386).
They communicate with the inner channels leading to tho southern ports,
and save a distance of 20 miles in the passage from Nunaimo to Victoria or
Esquimalt.

The STRAIT of OEORQIA, as already observed, commences at the northern
end of tho Haro Archipelago, and extends in a general W.N.W. direction to
Cape Mudge, a distance of 110 miles. There are many harbours, both on the
A'aiicouver and continental shores, and several islands, some of considerable
si/0, form other channels, all of which are navigable.

Tlio average width of tho main strait westward of Nannimo is about 9 miles,
diminishing at its narrowest part between Lasqueti and the liallinac Islands,
to 5 miles. The general depth of water is great, frequently over 200 fathoms.
The tides are not strong, and between Nanaimo and Cape Mudgc there are
few dangers in the way of ships navigating the strait.

The smaller channels on the continental shore are Malaspina Strait and
Sabine Channel, the former lying between the continent and Texhada Island,
the other separating Texhada from Lasqueti Island.

On the Vancouver shore is Ballinac Channel, lying westward of the islands
of the same name ; also Lambert Channel and Baynes Sound, the former
between Hornby and Dcnman Islands, and the latter dividing both from Van-
conver Island ; they will be separately described.

Tides. — The meeting of the tides takes place between Cape Mudge and Capo
Lazo ; that is to say, the flood entering by Fuca Strait meets that entering
by the North end of Vancouver Island, within 20 miles of the former cape,
generally much nearer, but varying according to the phases of the moon and
the state of the winds ; and at the point of meeting a considerable race occurs,
which would be dangerous to boats ; there is generally such a race at tho
entrance of Discovery Passage. It is high water, on full and change, at Capo
Mudge and Cape Lazo at about 5** 30*", and the range during ordinary springs
is from 12 to 14 ft. At the entrance of tho passage during springs the stream
North Pacific. 3 p

'Ijilffi

474

VANCOUVER ISLAND.

runs as much as from 4 to G knots an Lour, the flood or easterly strcom being
tho strongest.

Winda. — In summer N.W. winds prevail in the Strait of Georgia, blowing
strong and steadily during the daytime from May to September. In winter
there is a good deal of moderate, calm, and gloomy weather, with frequent
gales from S.E. and S.W.

NAHOOSE HABB0T7B, at 8 miles westward of Nanaimo. will bo known
by the remarkable hill called Nanoose or Notched Hill, which rises between
COO and 700 ft. immediately over its North side, and shows as a double or
notch peak from tho southward.

The shore westward of Nanaimo is free from danger, and at the distance of
half a mile 20 fathoms will be found. Off the North point of tho harbour Ho
a group of small wooded islands ; the entrance is between Maude Island (tho
southernmost of them) and Blunden Point, on tho South Hhoro of the main,
and is here nearly three-quarters of o niilo in width. Westward of the latter
n sand-bank dries a considerable distance off at low water. Entrance Hock,
2 ft. above hi^h water, and 1| milo within Blunden Point, extends off a low
maple flat on the South side almost into tho middle of tho harbour, and con-
tracts tho width of the entrance here to a quarter of a mile ; within this tho
harbour opens out to nearly a milo in width, and terminates at tho distance of
1 1 mile in a shoal mud flat, which dries at low water more than half a mile,
and where abundance of oysters are found. The only danger on the North
shore, in entering, is North Rock, which lies nearly 2 cables from the shore,
and has 5 ft. on the outer part. It is a spacious ond wcU-shelterod anchorage
from all winds ; with Nanooso Uill bearing North there is anchorage iu 12
fathoms, near the centre.

Fresh water may be obtained from n cove at the bend on the North side,
and there is a convenient nook with a steep shingle beach, where a vessel
might be laid for repairs, if necessary, on the same side, a mile from the head.

It is high water, on full and change, at S*" p.m., and springs range 15 feet.

The COAST, for G niiies westward of Nanoose, is strewed with numerous
small islands and reefs, the latter generally marked by kelp. /I'lie outermost
of them, Winchehea and Yeo Islands, extend between 1 and 2 miles from tho
land, and beyond these there arc no hidden dangers. Grey Hock, bare, 12 ft.
above high water, and rather remarkable, lies 2 cables E.N.E. from the East
end of the Winchelsea group.

Bndder Reef, with 6 ft. water on it, lies a quarter of a mile S.E. i E. from
Grey Hock, and has very little kelp on it. This reef must be avoided by vessels
bound westward from Nanoose Harbour, and the S.E. end of the Winchelsea
Islands should be given a berth of at least half a mile.

Ballinac Islands, two in number, are larger than the groups just described,
and lie further off shore. They are about 250 ft. high ; the northernmost one
has but two or three trees, and its summit terminates in a sharp bore nipple ;

UALLIXAO CIIANNEI^QUALICUM IllVED.

475

the Boutlicrnmost is wooded. They hnvc tlic n|)i)i-nrnnco of ono islniid n8 scon
from nil points. The it«lnnds arc steep nnd bold un nil sides, nnd nro con*
spicuous after pnsaing westward of Nnnnimo. Vessels bound through the
Strait of Georgia would do well to steer for thcin.

Ballinao Channel lies southward of the islands, between them nnd the
•mailer group which extends off the const wcstwnrd of Nnnoojoe. It is n siife,
clenr pnssnge, 1 i mile in width nt its nnrrowest part, which is nbrcnst Cierald
Island. The depth in mid-chnnnel is 13G fathoms, and the shores uf the
islands on both sides may be approached within n cable's length, if neccsNnry.
The only danger in the channel in working through is Cutlam RerJ\ which linH
2^ fathoms on it ; it is generally marked by kelp, and lies on the southern
side. To steamers, coasters, or vessels with a fair wind, liallinac Channel is
recommended. With strong N.W. winds the water is far smoother hera than
in the channel northward of the islnnds.

North-west Bay is 6 miles wcstwnrd of Nnnoosc. MUtakcn Island, low,
wooded, nnd hnlf a mile long, lies immediately off its northern eutrnnce point,
nnd S.W. ^ 8. 2^ miles from the North linllinnc Island. The bay indents the
const for 2 miles in nn K.S.K. direction, mnking n peninsula of the land which
separates it from Nnnoosc Harbour. It is much exposed to N.W. winds, nnd
the water in it is very deep.

From North-west Hay the land trends, with n slight indentation, nearly
West for 19 miles to Denmc nnd Hornby Islands, and to the southern en-
trances of Bnynes Sound nnU Lambert Channel. The land between Nnnoosc
nnd the Komox or Comox district, n distance of 24 miles, is undulating, nnd of
n moderate height from the . ea-cor st to the base of the mountain ranges, n
distance of about 4 miles. There nrc largo deposits of coal in the Comox
district, and the neighbourhood of linynes Sound. At the latter it is being
worked.

Qnaliodm River empties itself on this coast, 80 miles westward of Nnnalmo,
and 5 miles eastward of the eastern entrance of Bayncs Sound. It is a small
stream, only noticeable as affording shelter to canoes or boats within its
entrance, and as being the terminus of the trnil between the head-waters of
Barclay Sound and the eastern const of the island, a distance of only 13 miles
in a direct line. Qualicum Bay is a slight indentation of the const, imme-
diately West of the river, where very fair anchorage will be found in 8 or 10
fathoms, three-quarters of n mile from the shore.

The mountain ranges westward of Nanaimo arc of considerable height, and
very striking in their general features and varied outlines. Most conspicuous
amongst them, and midway between Barclay Sound and the East coast, rises
Mount Arrowtmilh to a height of nearly 6,000 ft. Its remarkable summit,
terminating in three sharp, well-defined peaks, is rarely free from snow.

Denman nnd Hornby Islnnds lie immediately off the coast, 34 miles west*
ward of Nnnaimo; the former is 9 miles long in a W.N.W< diiection, or.

i.<p'?i

t !

470

VANCOUVEU ISLAM).

jmrallcl with ihc const, low nnd generully wooiled, with nn nvcrnge width of
2 iiiilcfi.

Hornby Island is much Riiinllcr. (Ivcr its western side riscH rather nh-
niptly II n'lnaiknble tint-top liili, Mount (I'enjf'rn/, 1,070 ft. higli ; on its
csfcrn side it falls (rrudunlly, nnd toriuinatcH in n low, bare (^rnssy point. The
eastern side is indented hy Trihunr /tcy, uH'ordinfj; good anehornge. On both
these islands there is u considerable <iunntity of good land, particuliirly on the
latter, also fresh water ; and from the nature of the formation, it is probable
thnt coal scnms exist.

Denman Island is Rcpnrntcd from the mnin by n good pnssngc called Unynes
Sound, and llornby Island from Denman by Lambert Channel.

Yellow Island is small and bare, HO ft. high, nnd generally of a yellow
colour. It lies close off the S.E. jwint of Denman Island, is remarkable, may
be seen for several miles, nnd is n good object to steer for coming from the
eastward, as it forms the eastern entrance point of the soimd. Maple I'oinl,
r/hich forms the western, is also very remnrknblc ; it lies S.W. by W. 1 J mile
from Yellow Island, and is low and covc.ed with mnples. A sand-spit, which
dries nt low water, and is rother steep-to, extends one-third of a mile from
Mnp'.c Point.

BAYNES SOUND, scjinrnting Denman Island from the mnin, is a long
nnrrow sheet of wntcr, with nn avernge navigable width something over half a
mile, nnd with n general depth of 20 to 20 fathoms, so thnt vessels may, if
nccessnry, drop an anchor in any part ; there are, however, two very fair
anchorngcs, Fanny Bay on the South or main side, and Henry Bay on the
North or island side. At the distance of II miles from the eastern entrance
of the sound is Port Anymta, into which flows Courtenay River, one of the
largest streams in Vancouver Island, nnd in this immedinte neighbourhood ii
a large extent of good clear grass land.

The exit into the Strait of Georgia by the N.W. entrnnco of the sound,
between the North end of Denman Island and Cape Lnzo, is nearly 2 miles in
wivltli, but n remnrknblc bridge or bar of sond, strewed with large stones,
extends the whole wny across, nnd at low woter there is ns little ns 12 ft. on
it (pnge 477). During summer it is thickly covered with kelp, which never
nltogethcr disnppcnrs. The bar is very narrow, nnd is always smooth.
Towards high water vessels of 19 ft. draught may safely pass cither into or
out of the strait by this channel.

The Kast and West entrances to Ilnyncs Sound nro ninrkcd by spnr buoys.
Vessels entering by either channel should leaye black buoys on the starboard
hnnd, nnd red buoys on the port hnnd, giving them a berth of half a cable.

Deep Bay, — Maple Point, from the extremity of the trees, turns sharp off
ftt a right nnglc to the W.S.W. for half n mile, nnd forms a low snndy spit, in
slinpc resembling the lonp benk of a bird ; within this is Deep IJny, in which
the depth varies from 15 to 20 fathoms, irregulnr bottom, but snndy. Tt is a

BAYNES SOIINIi

477

■ntnll, and not very (IcshnLl" nnchornjjo; tlic best bcrtli i." in It to IG fnthoinN,
about 1 i cable Kast of the spit, nml lu-nr the centre of the bay.

Fanny Bay, on the Houthern side of the sound, 4 miles within Mnplo Point,
niTordr, n (food though somewhat limited anohorngo. Hnso Flat, the delta of a
conbidi )lc stream, having its rise in the lleaufort range of mountains, forms
its western point; and Ship Point, a bold wooded blull', its eastern, i.iitcriiig
from the eastward, give Sliip l'oint,and the coast of the peninsula immediately
eastward of it, n berth of u quarter of u mile, and unt^hjr in 12 ur 1'6 fulhoms
in the midtlle of the bay.

Villaye Point, on Dcnninn Island, with a largo native Rct»l"mcnt on it, is
remarkable ; it is 2 miles N.W. of Fanny liay, and a sand-spit extends a short
distance oiF it.

Henry Bay. — Dcnmnn Island, towards its N.W. end, falls nway into a
remarkable wedge shape, terminating in a siiigular sharp beak-sl'.iped extreme
called lleak Point ; the hollow of this beak, on the N.W. side of the island,
forms Henry Hay, which is nearly G miles from Fanny Bay, and is a safe and
convenient anchorage, though, like the latter, it is somewhat limited in size.
There is anchorage in or 10 fathoms, in the centre, a quarter of a mile from
the beach, where there is a large Indian village.

From lleak I'oint a series of sand-banks, some of them above water, others
covered, extend in n N.N.W. direction for !i little more than 2 miles. Samhf
Island, the largest of them, is two-thirds of a mile from the point, and G ft.
above high water, with large boulder stones disjjerscd over it; there is a good
boat {lassage through at half tide. North-west of Sandy Island, and the samu
distance, is White iijiit, which almost covers, and is very remarkable from tho
number of clam shells collected on it, giving it the appearance of a whito
eandy beach ; it is also connected with Sandy Island at very low tides.

Kelp Bar. — The end of the shoal, which occasionally dries in patches,
extends two-thirds of n mile N.W. of White Spit, and from it commences tho
remarkable kelj) bar or bridge before mentioned (page 47G), which connects
Denman Islond with the land about Cape La/.o, distant nearly 2 miles. Tho
bar is composed of sand, intersi>ersi'd with large boulders, which can be seen
nt low water. Great quantities of kelp grow on it during summer, and it is
rarely entirely without it. To cross the kelp bar over its narrowest part and
in tho deepest water, 15 ft. a<, low water, a vessel should stand 21 miles
through the sound, north-westward of Henry Hay, until a rather remarkablo
white beach (on the western shore. West .'5 miles from Iteak Point) is brought
to bear S. by W. i W., then steer out boldly N. by E. i E. The entrauco is
marked by spor buoys, as before stated.

On Whito llcaeh leading marks, consisting of white-washed planks attached
to trees, have been erected. When in line tliey jjresent the npj)earancc of an
upper and lower cross, wliieli may be seen from a distance of G milcB, and lead
across tho bar in not less than 12 ft. at low water.

"'■^^

' .Ol^fc ■■■■"

478

VANCOTTVER ISLAND.

Port Augusta, in tlic N.W. corner of Bayncs Sound, nltliougli apparently
a large sheet of water, its upper part is a mud flat, which almost dries at low
tides, and is formed by the Courtcnay Eiver, which flows into it. There is a
village here, connected with Victoria by steamer, and at 3 cables from it is a
saw-mill.

From White Bluff", bofore mentioned, a remarkable elbow-shaped tongue of
land, named Goose Spit, projects to the southward and westward ; it is grassy,
with one or two hillocks, and bare, with two small clumps oi trees. Goose
Spit forms the northern entrance point of the port, and (Jrasmj Point tlic
southern ; the latter is very low and swampy, the delta of a considerable
stream. Off" it, at low water, sand and boulders dry for 2 cables, and the
water shoals suddenly from 10 fathoms to G ft. at the distance of 3^ cables,
leaving a width of less than a mile between tho entrance points.

Within Qoose Spit is an excellent place for anchorage, in 14 fathoms,
with a S.E. gale, though no sea to spenk of could get up in any part of Poit
Augusta.

Covrtenay River is a deep and rapid mountain stream, but on account of
falls and other obstructions is only navigable for a few miles for boats and
canoes ; it has its rise in Mount Washington, having a considciablo extent of
rich grass country on either side.

Mount Washington is remarkable, and rises to 5,410 ft. ; it is the westernmost
of a range 10 miles in length, terminating in Mount Bccher to the East; to I'n.
southward and westward of it are several high mountain ranges and peaks
from 4,000 to 7,000 ft. above the seo, the highest summits being covered with
snow all the year round.

The Beaufort Itange rise on the western side of Baynes Sound, 7 or 8 miles
from the coast, and stretch for 12 miles iu a W.N.W. and E.S.E. direction,
varying in elevation from 4,500 to 5,400 ft. ; they are very remark' ble, pre-
senting seven or eight distinct summits, which are rarely free from s low. This
range, together with Mount Washington, form the eastern boundary of the
great central valley and chain of lakes which run through the length of
Vancouver Island from tho head of Barclay Sound.

Lambert Channel, between Denman and Hornby Islands, is i safe pass^.ge
running 6 miles in a W.N.W. and N.W. direction. It is a mile wide at its
southern entrance, gradually increasing to the N.W. as it opens into tho
Strait of Georgia. The general depth of water is from 24 to 30 fathoms,
shoaling to 16 fathoms on either side within 2 cables of the shore. Coming
from the southward. Yellow Island marks the western entrance point, while
Mount Geoffrey, a remarkable flat-top hill, 1,070 ft. high, on Hornby Island,
rises over the eastern side of the channel ; either of these may be steered
for until approaching the entrance, when W.N.W. is a mid-channel course
througli.

On Hvi eastern side is Norris liock, of considerable extent at low tide, but

^J 1

noUNBY ISLAND— CAPE LAZO.

479

nt hi^h tide, a mere patch 5 or 6 ft. above water; it lies N.E. J N. IJ mile
from Yellow Islaud.

The eastern side of Lambert Channel, between Norman Point and Shingle
Spit, a distance of 2 miles, has two groups of covering rocks, extending nearly
2 cables off, and the shore should not be approached within a quarter of a mile.
Shingle Spii is a remarkable low point on the eastern side of the channel,
2 miles within Norman Point.

Off the North end of Hornby Island stands a remarkable boulder rock,
7 or 8 ft. high, with smaller ones near it, and vessels should not approach the
sliore in this neighbourhood within a long half mile, at which distance there is
7 to 10 fathoms.

Tribune Bay, on the S.E, side of Hornby Island, affords good anchorage
with all but easterly or south-easterly winds, to whica it is quite open. It is
easy to enter or to leave, and conveniently situated as a stopping-place for
vessels bound either way, being 35 miles West of Nanaimo, and 40 miles cast-
ward of Cape Mudge and the entrance of Discovery Channel.

The eastern end of Hornby Island terminates in a rather remarkable point,
called St, John, grassy, and bare of trees. Off it, in a S.S.E. direction, are
two or three small low islets. Some reefs which generally break extend
nearly half a mile outside the islets ; these should be given a berth, and it is
not recommended to pass nearer than half a mile to the N.E. coast of Hornby
Island.

The outermost of the dangers off the West point of Tribune Bay, id a
l-(i\thom rocky patch, called the Nash Jiatik, which must be carefully avoided.
It is a quarter of a mile in extent, and lies N.E. by K. nearly a mile from
Point Downes, the western entrance point, and S.W. by S. from the largest
and outermost of the low islets off Point St. John. With a leading wind it is
recommended to pass the eastern side of the b.iy within a short half mile, and
to steer up for the white sandy beach as soon as it is open, anchoring with the
eastern bluff of the bay bcarin}^ 1''. by N. JJ N., 3 or 4 cables from the eastern
shore, in 9 fathoms, sandy bottom. There is anchorage, if desu-cd, in 4
fathoms, much closer in.

CAPE LAZO will bo seen after passing the eastern end of Hornby Island,
from which it bears W.N.W., distant 15 miles. It is a remarkable salient
point about 250 ft. high, flat and grassy on its sunmiit, but wooded behind, and
falling abruptly to the sea in yellow clay cliffs. Although a bold-looking
headland, shoal water extends a considerable distance off, and it is recom-
mended not to approach its eastern and S.li. sides nearer than 2 miles, as only
4^ fathoms, uneven bottom, is found at the distance of 1 J mile.

Mittlenatch Island, at 1(3 miles N.W. of Cape Lazo, is half a mile iu
extent, 200 ft. high, bare and peaked. Between it and the Vancouver Island
shore, distant nearly G miles, is the fair channel to Cape Mudge and Discovery
Channel.

(l»V»

',><14

1':%:

' .; •■ i-nu .'IT

■^^•1,1^

'■^'i'-i\

480

VANCOUYEIt ISLAND, ETC.

Oyster Bay. — From Cape Lnzo the coast trends W.N.W., is moderately
high, and slightly indented with boulder beaches, which makes boat landing
attended with danger xinless in very calm weather. At the distance of 15
miles is Kuhtiahan Point, the southern extreme of a large but not very deep
indentation, named Oyster Bay ; Shelter Point, nearly 4 miles W.N.W. from
Kuhushan, is its northern extreme. There is fair anchorage in 10 or 12
fathoms in this bay for vessels waiting wind or tide. A reef extends half a
mile eastward of Shelter Point. At 4 miles north-westward of Oyster Bay is
the entrance to Discovery Passage.

CAFE MUDGE is one of tliosc peculiar headlands so frequently met with
on this coast, and resembles Point Roberts and Capo Luzo, except that the
yellow clay cliff which forms its face is more covered with vegetation. The
cape is between 200 and 300 ft. high, flat, and wooded on its summit, falling
to the westward as it enters Discovery Passage with a low boulder point. The
high land of Valdcs Island appears behind it from the south-eastward. A
boulder beach extends in a semi-circular form from it to the eastward, and at
the distance of 2 miles in this direction the depth is not more than 5 fathoms.
The western low part of Cape Mudgo should not be brought westward of
W.N.W. in entering or leaving Discovery Passage.

DIEECTIONS.— The southern shore of the Strait of Georgia, with its an-
chorages and smaller channels, having been now described, a few remarks will
be offered on the navigation of the main strait.

From the coast of Oabriola Island abreast Nanaimo, to the opposite shore of
the continent, about Burrard Inlet, the width of the strait is 14 miles, the
navigation free from danger, and the strength of the tide between I and 2
knots an hour. Coming from the southward, Mount Shepherd, on the South
end of Texhada Island, is a very remarkable object, and shows as a high
solitary peaked island standing in the middle of the strait ; it is 2,900 ft. iu
elevation, and is plainly seen in clear weather more than 30 miles off.

Proceeding westward, the long and comparatively low island of Lasqueti
rises above the horizon, its singular bare turret-shaped summit, 1,000 ft. high,
presenting an unmistakeable feature. The Ballinac, and snxaller islands west-
ward of them, will now soon be made out. When abreast the former, the
width of the channel contracts to 4 m'.les between them and the small island
of Sangster, off the S.E. end of Lapqueti ; after which it opens out again to
7 miles, and the rather remarkable flat-topped Mount Geoffrey on the West
end of Hornby Island will be plainly seen. The southern coast of Lasqueti is
bold, with no dangers off it which are not seen, except Seal Socks, which
cover at half tide, and lie 1 J mile West of Sangster Island ; off its West end
are the small groups of Flat and Bare Islands, but no hidden dangers. False
Bay, which indents its West end, is exposed, and not recommended as an
anchorage.

iSislert Itlets are the next remarkable objects ; they are two small black

THE STRAIT OF GEORGIA-HOWE SOUND.

481

rocks 10 ft. above high water, S.W. by S. from the West point of Lasqueti,
with a deep water channel over a mile wide between them and Flat Islands.
When abreast the Sisters, the main strait turns to the N.N.W. between them
and Hornby Island for 4 miles, and then resumes its original trend to the
W.N.W. The distance between the Sisters and Point St. John, the low bare
East point of Hornby Island, is 5 miles ; the latter, with the small islets off it,
should be given a berth of nearly a mile. The Sisters are bold on all sides,
but should not be approached too close in calm or light winds, as the tide sets
straight past them. Having passed Point St. John, the distance to the
entrance of the Discovery Passage is 38 miles. The strait maintains a
uniform width of 9 miles, until near Mittlenatch Island, or for 30 miles, the
only stopping places being Oyster Bay, already described, 4 miles from Cape
Mudge, and Gillies Bay, on the West side of Texhada Island. The shore of
Texhada Island is bold.

EK''M

end

alse

NORTHERN SHORE OF THE STRAIT OF GEORGIA.

HOWE SOUND was thus named by Vancouver after Admiral Earl Howe,
and was called Braze de Carmelo by Galiano and Yaldes. It is immediately
adjoining Burrard Inlet (page 464) on the North, and is an extensive though
probably useless sheet of water, the general depth being very great, while
there are but few anchorages. It is almost entirely hemmed in by rugged and
precipitous mountains, rising abruptly from the water's edge to elevations of
from 4,000 to 6,000 ft. There is no available land for the settler, and although
a river of considerable size, the Squawmisht, navigable for boats, falls into its
head, it leads by no useful or even practicable route into the interior of the
country. Copper has been found here.

The entrance is between Atkinson Point, the North point of Burrard Inlet,
and Gower Point, nearly 12 miles apart. The sound penetrates the continent
in a northerly direction for 20 miles, and although of such considerable width
for nearly 12 miles of its length, yet it is choked by soi:;, large and numerous
smaller islands, between which are several ship passages. Bowen Island, the
largest and easternmost, is remarkable, its highest summit rising to nearly
2,')00 ft., being round, smooth, and partially bare, unmistakeably pointing out
the entrance from any direction ; the island is 7 miles in length in a northerly
direction, and more than 3 miles in width.

Queen Charlotte Chani.el, the easternmost passage into Howe Sound, is

between Bowen Island and Atkinson Point ; Passage Island, half a mile long

only, but very prominent from the southward, stands in the centre of the

char-ne' and on either side of it is a deep water passage. A tide ripple is

Nurth Pacific, 3 (t

.S;'

•ft'

■**''

<82

BRITISH COLUMBIA, ETC.

frequently met with off Atkinson Point, caused by the meeting of the ebb
streams from the sound and Burrard Inlet.

Snuff Cove. — At \^ mile northward of Passage Island, and on the eastern
shore, is White Cliff Point, and opposite, on the Bowen Island shore, disiant
\^ mile, is a double-headed cove. Snug Cove, the southernmost of these,
though narrow, affords excellent anchorage to small craft in 9 fathoms, shel-
tered from all winds; Deep Cove, the northernmost, is larger, but with a S.E.
wind, when anchorage would be most required, a swell would set in.

Vessels bound to Port Graves, on the South side of Qambier Island, which
is the principal anchorage in the sound, should pass westward of Bowyer
Island between it and Hood Point, the North point of Bowen Island. The
latter is a rather remarkable low flat peninsula point, with a small high cliffy
island lying off it.

Bound up the sound by Queen Charlotte Channel, a N.N.W. course leads
mid-channel ; pass eastward of White Bock, Centre Island, and Anvil Island,
through Montagu Channel. White Rock is a small but remarkable islet, 30 ft.
high. Anvil Island is oval-shaped, and 3 miles long, and its summit, Leading
Peak, 2,746 ft. high, and very remarkable, resembles the horn of an anvil
pointed upwards. From almost all parts of the Strait of Georgia, this peak
appears as a most prominent object ; it is an excellent leading mark to clear
the shoals off the Fraser Eiver by being kept just open westward of Passage
Island, on a N. by W. J W. bearing.

Montagu Channel, 5 miles above Bowyer Island, and between Anvil Island
and the eastern shore, is a mile wide, and over 100 fathoms in depth, trending
first to N. by W. for 7 miles, when it runs to the eastward for a further distance
of 4 miles, terminating in a low delta, through which flows the Squawmisht
River. The sound carries its depth to the head and shoals from 100 fathoms
suddenly to 2 fathoms.

Collingwood Channel, to the westward of Bowen Island, between it and
the group of smaller islands which stud the centre of the sound, is the most
direct route to Port Graves. In entering both shores are steep and bold ; the
direction of the channel for 4 miles is North, its width about a mile, aud
the general depth varies from 50 to 100 fathoms. The small islands forming
the western side have no dangers but what are visible, except Passage Rock,
which lies almost midway between Worlcombe and Pasley Islands, and covers
at half tide.

Barfleur Passage lies to the westward of the central group of small islands,
between them and Keats Island. It is a safe ship channel, but not quite so
wide as the one last described. A rock, which breaks at low water, extends
li cable into the channel westward from the second of the islands in the
entrance. The passages between the small islands are not recommended to be
used unless by coasting vessels.

Shoal Channel, the westernmost entrance to Howe Sound, is between Keats

ebb

111 islands,
quite so

r, extends
Ids in the

Ided to be

leen

Keats

HOWE SOUND— GAMBIER ISLAND.

483

Island and the mainland of Gower Point. It is convenient for vessels coming
from the westward, and leads to Plumper Cove, a snug anchorage on the N.W.
side of Keats Island.

The South point of Keats Island, which forms the eastern point of entrance
to the channel, has a small but prominent and thickly wooded island lying
close off it, Home Island. From a little within this island a bar of sand and
shingle extends quite across the channel to the steep cliffs of the mainland ;
the greatest depth over it, at low water, is 15 ft., and that in the centre of the
passage, which is here half a mile in width. The width of the bar in the
centre is not over a quarter of a mile.

Plumper Cove. — Immediately after crossing the bar of Shoal Channel, the
water deepens to 20 fathoms, and two small islets, partially wooded, and
almost joined at low water, will be seen N.N.E. a mile off; between them and
the shore of Keats Island is iPlumpcr Cove, which is perfectly secure with
all winds, and however hard it may be blowing outside, it is generally a
calm here.

Thornborongh Channel is a continuation of tbe one just described, and
leads up the western side of the sound, between Gambier Island and the main.
Its direction after passing Plumper Cove is N.N.W., and at the distance of
6 miles is Woolridge Island, rather on the eastern shore ; the wider channel
lies westward of this island, but there is over 100 fathoms of water through
Latona Passage to the eastward of it. Passing Woolridge Island, the arm
turns to the north-eastward, and northward of Anvil Island leads to the head
of the sound.

Gambier Island, lying ir. the centre of the sound, immediately northward
of Bowen Island, is almost square-shaped, and 6 miles in extent either way.
On its western side rise two very remarkable cone-shaped mountains, over
3,000 ft. in elevation; the southern face of the island is indented by three very
deep bays or inlets, in the easternmost of which only is convenient anchorage
found. Port Graves, the easternmost of the three bays on the South side of
Gambier Island, is the principal anchorage in Howe Sound. It is about
8 miles from the entrance, and may be reached with great facility by cither of
the channels already described; its entrance will not, however, be very
apparent to a stranger, until closing Hope Point, which forms its eastern side.
At two-thirds of a mile within the entrance a shingle spit extends a short dis-
tance off the West side ; when within this spit there is anchorage anywhere
in 10 fathoms, but half a mile or more inside it, in 7 fathoms, is the best
berth.

The Coast from Gower Point, the western entrance of Howe Sound, trends
W. i S. for 18 miles to the entrance of Malaspina Strait, and is free from
danger. White Islet, a bare rock, 60 fi. high, lies IJ mile from the shore,
6 miles westward of Gower Point, and is remarkable, always showing veiy
white; there is deep water close to and inside it. At 4 miles N.W. of thi»

»:^l

V;?,}',

■■;*t^

1 1*', ;?

I';

484

BRITISH COLUMUIA, KTC.

islet the coast recedes and forms Trail Bay. There is a very marked drop in
the land at the head of this bay, across which, by a portage of 1,100 yards, the
natives carry their canoes into Secchelt Arm, one of the many arms of Jervis
Inlet. Trail Islets, four in number, lie something more than half a mile off
the western end of this bay.

Thormanhy Islands, two in number, almost joined, and upwards of 2 miles
in extent, are 18 miles from Gower Point, and form the S.E. entrance point of
Malaspina Strait.

TEXHADA or Favida Island, lying parallel with and on the eastern side
of the Strait of Georgia, is 27 miles in length, with an average width of scarcely
4 miles. Throughout its whole length stretches a ridge of rugged trap moun-
tains, wooded generally to their summits. At the southern end. Mourn Shep-
herd reaches a height of 2,900 ft. Towards the novthem end, the range
decreases in elevation, but there is scarcely an acre of cultivable land through-
out the island. Its shores are steep and bold on all sides, and the land rises
abruptly, except at the North extreme.

The only anchorage, and that merely a stopping-plaoe, is Gillies Bay, on
the S.W. side, nearly 18 miles north-westward of its South end. It will be
known by a remarkable white patch on its northern point. An anchor may
be dropped in 12 fathoms, at a quarter of a mile from the beach, but it is only
a stopping-place.

There are some deposits of rich iron-ore on this island, which are mined
and the ore shipped to the smelting works 1 1 Port Townshend. It has been
proposed to erect a furnace on the island, the coal for which could easily be
obtained from the Comox district, or Nanaimo.

LASQUETI ISLAND lies parallel with Texhada, at its S.E. end, and is
separated from it by a channel about a mile in width. Its length is 9 miles,
its average width something more than 2 miles, and it ic remarkable from a
singular turret-shaped summit 1,050 ft. high, called Mount Tremeton, rising
nearly in its centre. On its southern side are several boat coves, and in Tucker
Bay, on the northern, there is very fair anchorage, with some good land in
the neighbourhood. Songster Island, half a mile long, lies S.S.W. a mile from
Young Point, the eastern extreme of Lasqueti.

Jenkins Island lies 3 miles westward of Sangster, and close to the South
shore of Lasqueti ; Seal Rock lies about midway between. Sea Egg Rocks,
always uncovered, lie 3 cables off the West end of Jenkins Island.

STEVENS PASSAGE, between Sisters Islets and Lasqueti, is upwards of a
mile wide, and perfectly safe and clear. Flat Islands, on its eastern side,
should be given a berth of a quarter of a mile.

SABINE CHANNEL, between Texhada and Lasqueti Islands, is a good
ship passage 9 miles long, in nearly an East and West direction, with verj'
deep water ; its breadth at the western end is 3 miles, but several high conical
islands lying off the N.E. side of Lasqueti contract the width at the eastern

MALASriNA STRAIT-JERVIS INLET.

485

rood

krj-
lical
tern

end, in eorae parts to three-quarters of a mile. There is also a narrow but
deep channel, Jiull Patsage, to the southward of these islands, by keeping
close along the Lasqueti shore. Tucker Bay, on the North side of Lasqueti,
and equidistant from either end, is a very fair anchorage.

MALASFINA STRAIT is a wide navigable channel, separating Texhada
Island from the mainland. Its general direction is W.N.W. for 30 miles,
when it again enters the Strait of Georgia* between Marshall Point, the N.W.
extreme of Texhada, and Harwood Island ; its southern entrance lies between
Upwood Point, the S.E. extreme of Texhada, and the western of the Thor-
manby Islands, and is 4 miles in width.

Upwood Point is rugged and precipitous ; stunted pines grow between the
crevices of the bare trap rock, the land behind is more thickly wooded. Almost
immediately over it rises Mount Dick, a very remarkable hump-shaped hill,
1,130 ft. high, and 3 miles within is Mount Shepherd, the highest summit of
the island. A covering rock lies 2 cables off the point.

Thormanby Islands, before mentioned, lying close to the mainland, and
appearing as part of it, terminate at their N W. point in a steep clay cliff, off
which, at low water, dries s boulder point. The Texhada shore is bold, and
almost straight for its whole length, fronted by narrow shingle or boulder
beaches.

JERVIS INLET f is one of the most considerable of those numerous and
remarkable arms of the sea which indent the continent of America from the
parallel of Fuca Strait as far as lat. 60° N. It extends by winding reaches
in a northerly direction for more than 40 miles, while its width rarely exceeds
1^ mile, and in most places is even less.

Neither in a commercial point of view, as a refuge for shipping, nor as a
means of communication with the interior of the country, does it appear
likely ever to occupy any very prominent place, as it is hemmed in on all
sides by mountains of the most rugged and stupendous character, rising from
its almost perpendicular shores to five, six, and sometimes eight thousand feet.
The hardy pine, which flourishes where no other tree can find soil to sustain

• It was in ttiis part that Vancouver met, to his groat surprise and mortification, with
the two Spanish surveying vessels which had preceded him. Those were the brig Sutil,
under Don D. GHlinno, and the schoonor Mexieana, under Don C. Yuldes, detached from
the commiBsion under Malaspina, from whom, however, he met with the most polits and
friendly attention.

t Jervis Canal, or Inlet, named hy Vancouver after Admiral Sir John Jervii, is the
Brazo de Mazarredo of Gnliano and Valdes. Commander R. C. Mayne, R.N., attached to
the survey under Capt. G. H. Richards, made his way through the dense forest and thickets
between the head of Jtrvis Inlet and Port Pembtrton, on the Fraser River, in July, 1860,
the details of which arduous journey are given in his interesting work, Chapter IX. It
was thought that this might be a good route from the coast to the upper part of the Fraser,
but this journey dipp^llod any such a notion.

■"' '■•' • 'I . ■ :.: ■-■'.1; ■ I

I i'

;(, ;■

i!ll

t I

I!i

486

BRITISH COLUMBIA, ETC.

life, holds but a feeble and uncertain tenure here ; and it is not uncommon to
see whole mountain sides denuded by the blasts of winter, or the still mora
certain destruction of the avalanche which accompanies the thaw of summer-
Strikingly grand and magnificent, there is a solemnity in the silence and utter
desolation which prevail here during the months of winter; not a native,
nor a living creature to disturb the solitude, and though in summer a few
miserable Indians may occasionally be met with, and the reverberating echo of
a hundred cataracts disturb the silence, yet the desolation remains, and seems
inseparable from a scene which nature never intended as the abode of man.
The depths below almost rival the height of the mountain summits ; bottom
is rarely reached under 200 fathoms, even close to the shore, and frequently
at much greater depths ; there are a few spots where vessels may drop an
anchor, but they are either open and exposed, with an inconvenient depth of
water, or from the narrowness of their entrance are only adapted to ntea men
or coasting vessels.

In the Vancouver Island Pilot, the various channels and shores are
described at length, but as there appears to be but little to interest general
commerce in this remarkable fiord, we shall make but brief extracts there-
from.

The entrance of the inlet is between Francis Point and Scotch Fir Point,
which are 12 miles apart in a W.N.W. direction. Nelson Island lies imme-
diately in the centre, and divides it into two channels, the westernmost being
the principal one.

Agamenmon Channel, the eastern entrance to the inlet, is 9 miles N. by W.
from Point Upwood. After running between Nelson Island and the main in
a general northerly direction for 9 miles, it joins the main channel of the inlet.
Its average width is little more than half a mile, the tides run from 1 to 3
knots, the depth of water varies from 50 to 100 fathoms, and it affords no
anchorage. There are three passages into Agamemnon Channel. The middle,
between Channel Islets and Pearson Island, and the easternmost between the
latter and Martin Island. The passages are about the same width, something
over a quarter of a mile, and have deep water. Vessels entering by the
western passage, or coming from the westward along the shore of Nelson
Island, must avoid Nile Rock, which covers at quarter flood, at a mile
S.W. by W. i W. from Fearney Point, the S.E. point of Nelson Island, and
the same distance West from the largest Channel Islet.

Pender Harbour is the only anchorage deserving the name, with a mode-
rate depth of water, to be found in the neighbourhood of Jervis Inlet, and its
entrance is so encumbered by islands as to render it difficult of accefs*- to any-
thing but steam or coasting vessels ; it immediately adjoins Agamemnon
Channel on the South, and lies E.N.E. three-quarters of a mile from Pearson
Island, indenting the coast for 3 miles in the same direction.

Vm Weitem Entrance of Jervit Inlet is between Alexander Point, the

JERVIS INLET— SEECHELT ARM.

487

South extreme of Ilardy Island, on the East, and Scotch Fir Point on the
West. The points are not remarkable, but the opening is readily made out ;
it is nearly 2 miles in width, and takes for a short distance a N.N.W. direc-
tion. Scotch Fir Point is rocky, and has two small islets lying close to the
westward of it, which, like the point itself, are covered with stunted pines.
Thunder Bay, formed on the western side, \^ mile above Scotch Fir Point, is
one of the few spots in Jervis Inlet where u vessel may drop an anchor, and,
being near the entrance, is likely to prove convenient.

Nelson Island, in the middle of the entrance to Jervis Inlet, is 10 miles
long in a northerly direction, and about 4 or 5 miles wide. The island is
mountainous, the summits ranging from 500 to 1,500 ft. in height. Cape
Cockhurn, its S. W point, is of white granite, about 80 or 90 ft. high ; a rook
lies 1 cable South of it.

Prince of Wales Beaoh. — Dark Cove, which affords a snug anchorage on
the West side of Jervis Inlet, within Sydney Islets, is 2 miles North of Captain
Island, and 12 miles from the entrance. Vancouver Bay, on the East side of
the inlet, 1 9 miles from the entrance, is about half a mile in extent, and of
square shape.

Princess Boyal Beaoh. — Deserted Bay, also on the East side of the inlet,
at the termination of Princess Royal Reach, and about 37 miles from the
entrance, is small, and affords an indifferent anchorage in its eastern part.
A valley extends from the head of the bay to the N.E., through which a trail
runs to the Lilooet Lakes on the Eraser River, and is much frequented by the
natives in the summer season.

Queen's Beaoh, — llie head of Jervis Inlet terminates in a patch of low
swampy land, through which flow some small streams ; it does not afford any
anchorage, there being 25 fathoms within half a cable of the outer edge of the
bank. A remarkable peak. Mount Victoria, rises 2 miles North of the water's
edge to a height of 7,452 ft., and is a very conspicuous object on approaching
the heod of the inlet. Princess Louisa Inlet, on the East side of Jervis Inlet,
5 miles below the head, is narrow, and about 4 miles long in an E.N.E. direc-
tion, with deep water.

Seeohelt Arm, the entrance to which is on the East side of Jervis Inlet,
1 mile North of Agamemnon Channel, is an extensive arm of the sea, pene-
trating the land for 1 7 miles in a south-easterly direction towards the Strait of
Georgia, and only separated from the latter by a low neck of land 1,100 yards
wide, forming an extensive mountainous peninsula to the westward, called
Seechelt Peninsula. A short distance within the entrance are some extensive
rapids.

Tides. — It is high water in Jervis Inlet, on full and change, at 6**, the rise
and fall being about 14 ft. Within Seechelt Inlet the rise and fall seldom
exceeds 6 or 7 feet.

Harwood Island, off the West entrance to Malaspina Strait, l^ mile from

4R8

BRITISH COLUMBIA, ETC.

the continental shore, and about 3 miles N.W. of Point Murshull, U 2J miles
lonj; in a northerly direction, and 1^ mile wide, from 150 to 200 ft. hi{;b, flat,
and thickly wooded. There is deep water between the island and the shore.

Westword of Jervis Inlet, the North shore of Malaspina Strait runs in a
westerly direction for 1 1 miles, terminating at Gritf Point. For a considerable
distance inland it is low, and bordered by a sandy beach. There are no off-
lying dangers that are not seen. From Grief Point the North or continental
shore of the Strait of Ooorgia runs in a W.N.W. direction for nearly 20
miles almost straight to Sarah Point, the S.E. entrance point of Desolation
Sound.

Savory Island, nearly 6 miles W.N.W. of Harwood Island and I mile from
the continental shore, is 4 miles long in a W.S.W. direction, but narrow. A
sandy beach, strewed with huge boulders, surrounds it, and extends a con-
■iderable distance off its North and West sides, which should not be approached
nearer than half a mile. The height of the island varies from 80 to 120 ft.,
aid the South side is faced by sun. 3 remarkable white sandy cliffs, very con-
spicuous from the S.E. Its East extreme is a granite cliff, steep-to. A
sandy bar or ledge, of 1 to 2 fathoms water, extends from its West point to
Hernando Island. Hurtado Point, on the main abreast Savary Island, is about
250 ft. high, bold and cliffy.

Mystery liock, about 2^ miles S.E. i E. from the East end of Savary Island,
is of small extent, uncovers 4 ft. at low water, and lies near the South end of
a shallow bonk extending from the it >d. Vessels, therefore, in navigating
this locality should observe great cautiou "oing between Savory and

Horwood Islands, but by keeping within half a lu.. "' the continental shore
this danger will be avoided.

Bagged Islands, close to the continental shore, and running parallel to it,
are a rocky group of small islands 2i miles long ; their S.E. part is about 2J
miles N.W. of Hurtado Point, and some rocks extend 4 rabVs from their N.W.
extreme. White Islet, a mile to the S.W. of them, is a verr i' morkoble bare
white granite rock, about 70 ft. high. A rock, which unooverft at low water,
lie" 1 cable East of it.

Sarah Point, at 20 miles W.N.W. of Malaspina Strait, may be colled the
N.W. entrance point of the Stroit of Georgio. It is a rounding rocky point,
sloping gradually to the sea from a height of about 700 ft., a short distance
within it. The coast here turns shor^jly round to the eastward into Malaspina
Inlet.

Hernando Island, 2 miles West of Savary, with which it is connected by
the shoal prjviously described, and 3 miles N.N.E. of Mittlenatch Island
(page 479), is about 2 miles in extent, flat, thickly wooded, and from 120 to
170 ft. high. A ledge, composed of sand and huge boulders, extends two-
thirds of a mile from its S.E. point. Staff Bay, on the North side of Hernando,

LEWIS CHANNEL— DESOLATION SOVNlJk

489

khe

[nt,

ice

lina

affords anchorngc, and is useful as a stopping-place for vessvls bound to Bute
Inlet or Desolation Sound.

Baker Passage, tu the northward of Ilerunndo Island, and loading from the
Strait of Georgia to tho entrance of Desolation Sound, is about 3 miles long in
a north-easterly direction, and 1 mile wide in the narrowest part, being
bounded on the North side by Cortes and Twms Islands. Tho only danger in
at its N.W. entrance point, off which a boulder ledge extends upwards of 3
cables in a south-easterly direction. Centre Sock, which covers at a quarter
flood, is in tho middle of the passage between Twins Islands and Cortes.

Blind Creek, on the East side of Cortes Island, 1 ^ mile North of Twins
Islands, is a basin of about 4 cables in extent, but useless as on anchorage.

LEWIS CHANNEL, off the entrances to Desolation Sound, between Cortes
and Iledonda Islands, to tho westward of tho latter, runs nearly straight
upwards of 12 miles in a north-westerly direction, and varies in breadth from
I milo to 3 cables, widest at tho S.E. part ; its shores arc generally rocky, low
in tho South part, but rising gradually to *,ho N.W., steep-to, and everywhere
free from danger ; no directions arc necessary for navigating it.

Squirrel Cove, on the West side of Lewis Channel, 4^ miles from Turn Point,
the S.W. entrance point, is a small landlocked basin of 6 to 7 fathoms water,
with room for a vessel of considerable size to lie at single ai. chor. It is entered
by a narrow passage about 180 ft. wide. Squirrel Cove can only be entered by
Bteamers or sailing vessels with a fair wind, and the chart is the best guide.
There are no dangers whatever within or near it.

Northward of Squirrel Co' the West side of Lewis Channel becomes more
rocky, and gradually incrcob. in height ; it takes a northerly direction for a
mile to Junction Point, and then trends to the N.W. for 7 miles, the channel
ending at Bullock Bluff, the North extreme of Cortes Island.

Einghorn Island, in the South entrance to Desolation Sound, and forming
the S.E. point of entrance to Lewis Channel, is about 2 miles in circum-
ference, and from 400 to 500 ft. high ; it is cliffy, and steep-to on the S.W. or
channel side.

DESOLATION SOUND, which may be considered as the head of the Gulf
of Georgia, is occupied by a numerous archipelago of islands of various sizes.
Point Sarah, on the South side of the southern entrance, is also the point
where the coast turns to the eastward, and forms an arm, called by the Spanish
surveyors before alluded to, and who here formed a portion of the surveying
party with Vancouver, the Brazo de Malaspina. The latter leads in a S.E.
direction, almost parallel with, and 2 or 3 miles from, the northern shore of
the gulf to the distance of about 8 miles, with a smaller branch near the
middle, extending about 3 miles from its northern shore to the N.N.E.

From the mouth of this inlet the continental shore continues in an easterly
and N.E. direction, and for 6 miles ia much indented; and several small
Nu,-th Pacijie. 3 u

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islands and rocks lie near it to the lat. of 50° 9' N., where they disappear.
Between these islands and the large island on the opposite side is the enti-ance
to Horn/rat/ Channel, which from hence trends in a curve to the N.N.W. for
about 13 miles, being very deep, and from 1 to 2 miles in width. Brettell Point,
on the North eide of the northern end of Homfray Channel, forms the East
point of the Brato de Tola, the entrance of which, about 2 miles wide, has two
small islets in it. This apm extends in an irregular N.E. direction to the lat.
of 50° 30', where it terminates in shallow water and a little low land, through
which flow two small rivulets. The country presents one desolate, rude, and
inhospitable aspect, and was nearly destitute of inhabitants.

From the northern end of Homfray Channel, Bryce Channel trends to the
westwcrd, and is connected with Calm Channel, leading to Bute Inlet, by
passages on either side of Haza Island.

SUTIL CHANNEL. — This extensive channel, which leads from the western
part of the Strait of Georgia to the entrances of Toba and Bute Inlets, is
bounded on the East side by Cortes, and on the West by Valdes and Ecad
Islands. Its length in a northerly direction is 15 miles, and the breadth at its
entrance to the Strait of Georgia 6 miles, decreasing to 1 mile in the northern
part. The soundings in mid-channel are deep, though there are several dangers
off both shores near the southern parts, but northward of Mary Island it is
quite clear.

There are several good anchorages on either side, two of which. Drew Har-
bour and Carrington Bay, are easy of access to all vessels, and useful as stopping-
places.

The tides in the Sutil Channel are weak, seldom exceeding 2 knots. The
flood stream runs to the northward from the Strait of Georgia. It is high
water, on full and change, at &, and the rise and fall is 12 ft.

CORTES ISLAND.— The West side of this island, which forms the eastern
boundary of Sutil Channel, is gcnerully low, and indented by several bays and
creuks, in many of which good anchorage may bo found. Off Reef Point, its
South extreme, a ledge, composed of sand and boulders, extends three •■q[unrter3
of a mile, and covers at three-quarters flood.

Gorge Harbour, the entrance to which is on the West side of Cortes Island,
4J^ miles N.N.W. from Eeof Point, is 2 miles long in a westerly direction, and
1 mile broad at the widest part, affording good anchorage in 9 to 12 fathoms.
The entrance to it is through a narrow gorge nearly hulf a mile long, boimded
on cither side by steep clilfs about 200 ft. high, and less than 40 yards wide in
some places, willi fathoms in the shoalest part. The tide runs through it fronx
3 to 4 knots. The best and most convenient anchorage is in the West part,
about hall' a mile from the entrance.

In entering Gorge Harbour, which can ouly be done with a favourable tide,
unless in a steamer, after passing Guide Islets, steer boldly up the gorge or
entrance , and take care, on nearing its North part, to pass between Tide Islet

SUTIL CHANNEL— DREW HAEBOUR.

491

llnnd,
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from
(part,

tide,
go or
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and the West shore, theprssage East of the islet being shoal, when haul to the
N.W., pass on either side of Bee Islets, and anchor in from 10 to 12 fathoms,
muddy bottom, 1 or 2 cables to the westward of them.

JUary Island, on the East side of Sutil Chunncl, about 3 miles N.W. by
W. J W. from Eeei' Point, is of a roimd shape, about 6 mi'es in circumference,
and from 70 to 150 ft. high ; extending upwards of a mile in a S.S.E. direction
off its South point is a ledge about 2 cables wide, called the Boulder Reef,
which covers at high water. Camp Island, off the We-t extreme of Cortes
Island, and 7 miles from Reef Point, is of small extent, aud wooded ; between
it and C.Ttes Island is Plunder Pass, about 3 cables wide, deep, and clear of
danger.

Carrington Bay, on tho N.W. side of Cortes, about 3 miles from Centre
Islet, is a mile deep in an easterly direction, about 3 cables wide, and affords
anchorage at a distance of 3 cables from ita head. Von Donop Creek, tho
entrance of which is 5^ miles from Centre Islet, is long and narrow, penetrating
Cortes Island in a south-easterly direction for upwards of 3 miles. There is
good anchorage in 5 to 6 fathoms near its head, but the entrance being only 30
yards wide in some places, a vessel should not use it as a stopping-place.

VALDES ISLAND.— Capo Mudge, the South extreme of Valdcs Island, and
the S.W. entrance point of Sutil Channel, has been described in page 480. A
bank extends in a south-easterly direction for some distance from the cape, and
until well inside the channel the cape ought not to be approached within 2
miles. The coast of Valdes turns sharply round the cape to the N.N.AV., run-
ning in a straight direction for 3^^ miles.

Drew Harbour, on tho East side of Yaldes, G miles from Cape Mudgc, is
about 1 mile deep, 3 to 4 cables wide, and rendered perfectly secure, and locked
by a narrow strip of land called Rebecca Spit, which forms its eastern boundary.
The anchorage, in 9 to 15 fathoms, sandy bottom, at a dist.incc of half a mile
from its head, is tho best in Sutil Channel ; its shores ore low, and bordered by
u sandy beach.

Ilyacinthc Bay, on Valdcs Island, and Ij mile N.W. of Drew Harbour, is of
small extent, with from 10 to 20 fathoms water, but allbrds no anchorage.
Open Bay is half a mile North of Ilyacinthc Bay, and separated from it by a
rocky point. A vessel should not anchor thore.

Hoskyn lalet, formed between Read and Valdcs Islands, on tho East side
of the latter, is 7 miles long in a northerly direction, with an average breadth
of two-thirds of a mile. The shores are broken and rocky, with some small
islands off the South entrance and along the East side, and thero is no anchor-
age within it, except for small craft.

READ ISLAND, bordering the West side of the N.W. part of Sutil Channel,
18 9 mileslong in a northerly direction, and from 1 to 3 miles broad. Its sout'iern
part is low, but rises gradually to the northward to 1,000 it. in some places.

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492

BRITISH COLUMBIA, ETC.

Vi'ner Point, its South extreme, is bare, and about 40 ft. above high water ; it
lies 7 miles North of Cape Mudge.

Bnrdwood Bay, on the Kast side of Read Island, 2 miles from Viner Point,
is about a mile wide, 2 to 3 cables deep, ond contains several small islets.
There is 12 fothoras at a short distance off shore, in its North and South parts,
where a vessel may stop in fine weather, but the bay is open to the Soutb and
East.

Evans Bay, the next inlet on the East side of Bead Island, to the northward
of Burdwood Bay, is about 3 miles long in a northerly direction, 1 J mile wide
at the entrance, and branches off in two narrow arms near its head. Its shores
arc rocky and much broken, and there is no anchorage except in Bird Cove, on
the West shore, where small craft may find shelter. Frederick Point, the N.E.
point of entrance to the bay, is bold, and may be approached to 1 cable.

Hill Island, just outside the entrance of Evans Bay, is of small extent, but
conspicuous from its centre, 490 ft. high. The shores are rocky, and may be
approached to a quarter of a mile.

Fenn Islands, near the middle of Sutil Channel, to the northward of Evans
Bay, cover an extent about 1 J mile long and 1 mile wide. They are rocky,
covered with stunted trees, and their greatest elevation is about 270 ft. A
vessel should not venture among them, but there is a clear passage on their
East and West sides.

Directions, — Entering Sutil Channel from the Strait of Ooorgia, pass within
half a mile on either side of MIttlenatch Island, and steer N.W. by W. or
N.W. J W. for the entrance, taking care to keep the North side of Texhada
Island open westward of Hernando and Savary Islands E. by S., until Camp
Island opens West of Mary Island, N.N.W., to clear the reefs extending off
ttie South points of Cortes and Mary Islands (p. 491) ; when clear of the latter
danger, haul more to the northward, .steering about N.N.W. or N.W. by N.,
liiiti ^.u, ing about a quarter of a mile westward of Centre Islet, steer up mid-
ahr •' : ., going, as most convenient, on eitlicr side of Pcnn Islands.

... vessel may beat through this channel, but till past the dangers in the
South part it would not be prudent to near the West sides of Cortes and Mary
Islands within 1 J mile in standing to the eastward ; and in standing towards
Cape Mudge do not approach it within 2 miles, or bring Mittlenatch to the
eastward of E. by S. ^ S., until the cape bears S.W., when a vessel may stand
to half a mile of the Valdes shore. If intending to anchor, Drew Harbour and
Cnrrington Bay arc easy of access for any class of vessel, and but littli out of
the regular track.

Calm Channel, to the North of Lewis and Sutil Channels, leading from tliom
to Bute Inlet, is 9 miles long in a N.W. by W. direction, and about 1 mile
broad ; its shores rise abruptly to a great height, are everywhere clear of danger,
and the tides weak, except in the N.W. part. This chaunei is not well a lapted

for any vessels except steamers, as there is generally but little wind, and no
anchorage. No directions are necessary for navigating it.

Stnart Island, at the northern termination of Calm Channel, and in the en-
trance of Bute Inlet, is about 4 miles in extent, of an undulating surface, rising
in some parts to 800 and 1,000 ft. Its shores are rocky and clear of danger.

BUTE INLET. — This extensive arm of the sea, which penetrates the conti-
nent for nearly 40 miles in a winding course to the northward, presents many
similar features to Jervis Inlet, the gerieral breadth varying from 1 to 2 miles,
and the shores on either side rising a'jruptly and almost precipitously, in many
places to stupendous mountains from 5,000 to 8,000 ft. high, whose summits
are generally covered with snow all the year round. At the head are two ex-
tensive valleys, one penetrating to the N.W., and the other to the S.E., from
whj -h I'uw streams; the one to the westward, called by the natives //oma/Ao
/.!"• / ■'vigable for a long distance by boats and stern- wheel steamers of

a,;iit c if aught. Off these rivers some sand-banks extend a short distance,
affording indifferent anchorage near their outer edges; but the soundings
everywhere else in the inlet are very deep. The water for some distance from
the head is nearly fresh, and of a milky white appearance. In the summer
months there is a constant outset, varying in strength from 1 to 2 knots.

A direct route from the coast to the Cariboo country, by the way of Bute
Inlet, was partially carried into effect in 1864, and a small wharf was erected
at the mouth of the Ilomalko River. These solitary posts are very dangerous
residences, and some frightful tragedies have occurred at them. The wholesale
massacre of the white occupants has been more than once perpetrated by the
bloodthirsty Indians,

Bute Inlet war. | "oposed by A. Waddington, Esq.,* as a terminus of a
railway and 8team-*>o:-.i, route between the North Atlantic and Pacific Oceans.
F. Whymper, K ^ , sL »i .i n interesting account of a visit to a great glacier at its
head.

Arran Rapids, at ' ''. 'j enirance of the inlet on the West side, between Stuart
Island and the contin^.t, ;o 1 cable wide in the narrowest part. The tides
rush through with grea , strength, the flood from the westward ; and it would
be very hazardous for * vessel to go through them even at slack water.

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t Mr. Wft(ldinpr*on spent fivo years in procuring information respecting his proposed
intor-ocoanic routo. Ilia plan was to form a milroiid from Iho head of Uuto Inlet, througli
iho Cascad« P.iirrr • to the junction of the QuoanoUo Kivor with tho Frasor Kivor, adifitanoo
of 222 mUoB. -Vt. . country was (luito unknown till thus explored by Mr. Waddington.
From this pent .- ^h ■ Fraanr there is a direct route to tlio Carihoo country, and tho
Fmsor is navigab'.' • Wrtiis, 'or stoam-boats for 280 miles up to tho Leather or Yellow
Head Pass through the Kocky Mninfains; from thenco the routo towards Canada, liy tho
Sa.skatchawan IJiver, has Ixon well surveyed. Tho dctiiils of this plan are given in tho
Jourmil of the Itoyd Googniphiail Society, 1868, vol. xxxviii, pp. 118—128.

494

BRITISH COLUMBIA, ETC.

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Orford Bay, on the East side of the inlet, 19 miles from the entrnnce, is of
small extent. A small vessel may use it as a stopping-place.

Waddington Harbour, at the head of the inlet, being in fact its termination,
is about 2 miles in e.xtent, and affords an indifferent anchorage oU' the edge of
the banks extending from the Ilomnlko and Southgate Rivers, and off its East
shore. Except in the vicinity of the rivers, the land rises almost precipitously
to 4,000 and 6,000 ft., is most sterile and rocky, covered with stunted pines.

Homalko or Homathko Biver enters 'NN'addington Harbour on the West
side, ond is a stream of considerable extent, winding to the N.W. through a
largo valley. At the entrance is a bar with only 1 to 2 ft. over it at low tide,
but within the water deepens to I and 3 fathoms, llomalko River and Wad-
dington Harbour may possibly I r, ue places of some importance, as, from tho
sources of the former, an easy ro\ .. fceu discovered to the gold-mining

regions in the far North of British tV la.

In navigating Bute Inlet but few directions nro required, as the points may
be everywhere approached to half a cable, and, if intending to anchor in Wad-
dington Harbour, when nearing it steer for its North part, anchoring about
three-quarters of a mile off the head in 1 5 fathoms, and about 3 cables from
the high northern shore. The anchor should be dioppod immediately 16 fathoms
is obtained, as the bottom shoals rapidly.

Tides. — It is high water in Calm Channel, on full and change, at T"", and tho
rise and fall is 14 ft. In Bute Inlet it is high water at G*", and the rise and
fall varies from 12 to 14 ft.

DISCOVERY PASSAGE, formed between tho West side of "V'aKlcs Island
and tho Vancouver shore, is the only known navigable outlet from tho North
part of the Strait of Georgia to tho N.W., and was named after Vancouver's
sloop. Its length in a N.W. and S.E. direction from Cape Mudge to Chatham
Point is 23J miles, and its average breadth a little more than 1 mile ; but at
Seymour Narrows it contracts to less than half n mile. Its shores, southward
of the Narrows, are moderately high and apparently fertile, but northward of
them steep, rugged, and mountainous.

Tides. — Southward of Seymour Narrows tho stream runs with great strength,
from 4 to 6 knots at springs, and turna at high and low water by the shore. At
tho southern entrance, near Cupe Mudgo and between it and Willow Point,
heavy races or tide rips rage during the flood, which would be dangerous to
small vessels in blowing weather. It is high water, on full and change, at
5*" 30"", and the rise and fall is about 1 1 ft.

Northward of Seymour Narrows tho streams nro comparatively slack ; they
run from 1^ to 2^ hours after high and low water. At the Narrows it is high
water, on full and change, at 4'', and the rise and fall is about 13 ft.

In Discovery Passage, when to the southward of Seymour Narrows, tho
soundings in mid-channel vary from 30 to 60 fathoms, except at 1 mile
N.W. by W. riw.n Cape Miidgc, w'-ere a shoal patch of 8 fathoms exists. In

they

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the
I mile
In

DISCOVERY PASSAGE.

Seymour Nnriows, with the cxcejjtiou of Hippie Hock in its southern entrance,
the least water in mid-channel is 36 fathoms, but northward of them the depth
increases to 100 and 110 fathoms.

Cape Mudge, with the bank otf it to the S.E., have been already described
in p. 480. From it the West side of Valdes Island takes a north-westerly
direction, and at the distance of 3 miles is a small indentation named Qnathi-
asfcif Cove, bordered by a sandy beach. The cove is only fit for steamers or
small craft, and only affords room for one vessel to moor in its S.l',. and anotlier
iu its northern part. The land between Cain- Miid^o and (iualhiasky Cove is
about 100 ft. high, flat, and fertile. An Indian village of considerable extent
stands midway between the two places.

Oowlland Harbour, the next opening in Valdes Island, about 5 miles N.W.
of Cape Mudge, is of considerable extent, being upwards of 2i miles long in a
N.W. and S.E. direction, and a quarter to two-thirds of a mile broad. The
i best berth, if stopping for a Bhort time, is in G or 7 fathoms, about 2 cables

East of Vigilant Point, the N.W. extreme of GowUand Island. In the South
l)art of the harbour the water is deeper, and the anchorage more extended,
Otf the entrance is Steep Island, about 100 ft. high, 1 cables long, N.W. and
S.E., and 1 cable wide. GowUand luand protects the harbour to the S.E.
Entrance Hunk lies nearly across the entrance to the harbour, and partly dries
at low water. There is a clear passage on either side of it, with not less than
4 fathoms.

From GowUand Harbour to Seymour Narrows the coast takes a W.N.W.
direction, being steep-to, high, and rugged. Maud Island, the S.E. point of
the Narrows, is small, and about 300 ft. high.

Willow Point of Vancouver Island, the S.W. point of Discovery Passage,
lies S. by W. nearly 2 miles from Cape Mudge. It is low, covered with willow
bushes, and off it a sandstone ledge extends to the N.E. for nearly 3 cables.
In passing the point do not approach within half a mile.

From Willow Point a low coast runs N.AV. for 7 miles to Orange Point, and
is bordered the whole distance by a sandy beach.

Duncan Bay, of which Orange Point is the East extreme, is about half a
mile deep, and affords good anchorage in 11 to 7 fathoms, sand, well out of the
tide, and sheltered from all except N.W. winds. This bay is easy of access,
and the best anchorage so\Uhward of Seymour Narrows, aiul is a good place to
await slack water for passing through the latter. Good anchorage will be found
in 11 fathoms, with Ilace Point bearing N.W. by N., and the centre of Small
Island, iu GowUand Harbour, N.E. by N.

Menzies Bay, immediately S.W. of Seymour Narrows, is of considerable ox-
tent, running in a W.N.W. direction for 1 i mile, and three-quarters of a milo
broad, but in its centre is a largo sand-bank, which partly dries at low water,
with a narrow but clear passage on either side. Good well-sheltered anchor-

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496

BRITISn COLUMBIA, ETC.

age, in 5 to 6 fatlioms, may bo procured between this banic and the head of
the bay.

SEYMOUR NARROWS, ot 10 J miles N.W. by W. from Cape Mudge, oro
about 1^ mile long, from 3 to 5 cablts wide, and the shores on both sides are
high, rugged, and steep-to. Ripple Jtock, a dangerous rock, with only 2J
fathoms least water on it, was discovered in the Narrows ofter f)io survey had
been published. It is about 1^ cable in extent N.N.W. and . -I.E., and lies
almost in the centre, but rather on the western side, between Maud Island and
Wilfred Point, at 3 cables S.W. by S. i S. from the N.W. point of the island,
nearly 2 cables from the nearest laud of Wilfred Point, and near the heaviest
part of the tide-race. It is therefore dangerous for large vessels during the
strength of cither stream, and should only bo passed at or near slack water,
keeping on the eastern shore. In consequence of the contraction in brcadtli
of Discovery Passage, the tide rushes through these Norrows with great
velocity, nearly 9 knots at springs ; the flood and ebb streams run for nearly
equal intervals of 6 hours, a very short period of slack water intervening be-
tween thorn.

It is recommended to choose tho early part of a favourable tide to pass
through these Narrows, for during the greatest strength a boiling race extends
across, and steerage becomes very difficult. It is stated on good authority that
a vessel steaming at the rate of 13 '»nots has been unable to make headway, and
even to be set back, while attempting the Narrows at springs. The U.S.S.
IVachusett, passing through the Narrows from the southward with a strong
ebb, settled down in an enormous 'vhirlpool, and struck heavily on lli])pIo
Hock.

Tides, — It is high water in Seymour Narrows, on full and change, at about
3''. The flood stream (from the northward) commences about 10'' a.m. ; tho
velocity at springs is from 10 to 12 knots, and at neaps 6 to 8 knots. Tho
average duration of slack water is about 10 minutes.

Northwiird of the Narrows, Discovery Passage takes a north-westerly direc-
tion for 12 miles to Chatham Point, the shores becoming more high and rugged
than before. On the eastern shore are several bays or openings, but, with tho
exception of Phmiper Bay, too deep to afford anchorage. The western shore ia
nearly straight, and near Chatham Point arc Otter Cove and Elk Bay, both
ttflbrding anchorage.

Plumper Bay, half a mile North of Seymour Narrows, is about two-thirds
of a mile deep, and the same in width, alfording anchorage in from 11 to 9
fathoms, near its S.E. part, easy of access, well sheltered, and out of the tide.
Dcep-u'ater Bay, separated from Plumper Bay by a peninsula, is about 1 mile
deep, and half a mile broad, but too deep for anchorage.

Granite Point is a high white granite bluff on the western shore, at the
northern termination of Seymour Narrows. At 2 cables N,.W. from Granite
Poiat is a rock with only 9 ft. water.

DISCOVKUY I'ASSAGK— LOUGIIDOIIOUGII INLHT.

497

ly dircc-
rugged
rith the
I shore is
iy, both

lo-thirds
JH to 9
Ihc tide.
It 1 mile

at the
I Granite

Nodales Canal is an extensive opening running in a N.E. by E. direction,
between Thurlow and Valdcs Islands, to Cardcro Channel ; its western entrance,
which is upward of a mile wide, with deep water, is 1 J mile N.E. by N. from
Chatham Point. There are some tide-rips off it.

Cardero Channel, passing from Duto Iidet entrance, to the northward of
Valdes and Thurlow Islands, into Johnstone Strait, is very intricate, and
unfit for shipping, in consequence of the irregular dii'cction ond rapidity of the
tides, and the fjioat di'ptli of water.

LOUGHBOROUGH INLET, which runs to the northward, at the western
end of Cardero ' 'lannel, is one of those extensive inlets so characteristic of tliis
11 region. It cxtL-uds for nearly 17 miles inland, tliough in many parts not more

than a mile wide, between steep and nearly perpendicular mountains, from
who.so summits the di.ssolving snow descended their rugged sides in many
beautiful cascades. An islet and some rocks lie off its East point of entrance ;
and in lat. SC^ 33' it appears, in ascending it, to terminate, but this arises
from two interlocking points, as the inlet itself proceeds about 10 miles farther
northward, terminating in the usual low land. The flood tide hero varies
about four hours from what occurs in the Gulf of Georgia, an evidence that it
comes frvjm the North end of Vancouver Island.

Elk Buy, on the West side of Discovery Passage, at 9 miles N.W. of
Seymoiu- Narrows, is about 1 J mile broad, and three-fjuartcrs of a mile deep.
It affords indifferent anchorage, in 14 to 15 fathoms. A rock, which covers at
half flood, lies li cable off the shore, three-quarters of a mile N.W. of Elk
Hay. Otter Cove, on tlie West side of Discovery Passage, and just South of
Chatham Point, is a small but snug anchorage, completely sheltered from all
winds by Liinesiono Inland, in the centre of the entrance. If intending to
anchor here, pass North of Limestone Island, and anchor midway between it
and the head of the cove, in from 10 to G fathoms; a large vessel should
moor,

CHATHAM POINT, nearly 24 miles from Cape Mudgc, is the N.W. ex-
treme of Discovery Passage, and also separates it from Johnstone Strait. It is
n low rocky point, and at 2 cables N.E. froni its North extreme \» Beaver liock,
awash at low water; in rounding, the shore ought not to bo approached nearer
than half a mile.

Directions. — In proceeding through Discovery Passage from the southward,
if the tide bo favourable, a vessel has only to keep in mid-channel till past
Seymour Narrows ; but if the tide bo unfavourable, after passing Cape Mudge,
keep about 2 or 3 cables ofl' tlio eastern or Valdes bland shore, which is
8teep-to, and the tide here docs not run so strong. If uiiable to get through
the Narrows, Menuies and Duncan Bays afford good anchorages. The latter
ought to be preferred being easier of access.

North of Seymour Narrows, the tides being comparatively weak, a vessel
North I'avi/ic. 3 8

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498

BRITISH COLUMBIA, KTC.

may proceed either in mid-channel or close to either shore, except in rounding
Chatham Point, which should not be approached nearer than 4 or 3 ciibluii, to
olear BeaTcr Ilock. Plumper Bay affords a good stopping-place to a vessel
unable to proceed through Seymour Narrows from the northward.

Sailing vessels of any sIeo ought not to attempt to boat through southward
of tho Seymour Narrows.

JOHNSTONE STRAIT, which separates tho N.E. side of Vancouver
Island from tho main, is comprised between Chatham Point and Reaver Cove,
being about 55 miles in length in a W. by N. and E. by 8. direction, with a
varying breadth of 1 to 2 miles. Tbo shore on both bides is high and rugged,
more especially tho southern one, which may bo said to bo a continuous
mountain range, rising almost abruptly from the sea, the summits of which
vary from 2,000 to 5,000 ft. iu height, some of tho higher ones being clad iu
snow all tho year round.

Tho shores of tho strait are nearly everywhere steep-to, except a few spots
along the northern side, hercaf r described. From Chatlmm Point to the
West end of Thurlow Island thi (oundings in mid-cliannci are very deep, no
bottom in many places being found with l.'JO fail -is. West of llardwicke
Island it again deepens to no bottom at 150 and 17u fathoms.

Tides. — Everywhere in Johnstone Strait it is high water, on full and
change, at 0'' 30"", and tho rise and fall of tide is from 15 to 17 ft. Tlio
streams run from 2 to 2i hours after high and low water by tho shore, and
except in the vicinity of Ilelnicken Island, and to the eastward of Knox IJ.iy,
they are not stron;. In the former place they run from 3 to 7 knots, and in
the latter 2 to 4 knuts ; but in other parts of the strait they seldom exceed
1 to S knots per hour.

THUELOW ISLAND is on the North side of Johnstone Strait, to the west-
ward of Nodales Canal. Its South side, which borders the strait, is rocky, and
about 13 miles long in a westerly direction; the eastern half is indented by
bcvcral bays, off which lie some small islands.

EInox Bay, on the South side of Thurlow, and 7 miles westward of Chathani
Point, is two-thirds of a mile deep, and about the same in width, affording
anchorage in from 15 to 17 fathoms 2 cables from the head. The anchorage
is well protected from East or westerly winds, but it ought only to be used as
a stopi)ing-place for the night or tide.

Between Knox Bay and Nodales Canal lie the Pender Islands, which ore
very rugged and barren, the largest being 150 ft. in height.

Westward of Knox Bay the coast of Thurlow Island is almost straight,
running in a W.S.W. direction for nearly G miles, when it turns to the N.W.
Its shores are high, rugged, and stccp-to.

Bipple Point, on the South or Vancouver shore of the strait, 6 miles West
from Chatham Point, is steep-to, and between it and Knox Bay are some heavy
tide rips in blowing weather. Camp Point, DJ miles W. by S. J S. from

SnS3

JOHNSTONE STRAIT— roUT NKVILLK.

490

Ilipj)lc Point, elopes gradually to the sea; mid half a mile to the N.K. of it is
Jilpph Shoal, with from 7 to 9 fathoms.

Salmon Bay. — The coast between Uip])le nnd Camp Points runs in n
W.S.W. diroetion, curving sliglilly inwards ; and westward froni Camp Point
to Salmon ISay it is nearly straight for ij miles. Salmon Bay at high water
apjjcars of considerable extent, but affords no anchorage.

Hdmcken Island, lying 3 miles westward of 'I'liurlow Island, in the centre
of the strait, is IJ mile long East and West, and about half u mile wide, with
a clear channel of the same width on either side of it. The island is abwut
150 or 200 ft. high. Speaker Hock, which covers at onc-tpiarter Hood, lieH
2} cables N.K. from its eastern point, and is in the track of vessels using
Current I'assagc. liace I'usaaijc, to the southward of Ilelmcken Island, is half
a mile wide, but deep nnd clear of danger. The tide sets very strongly through
it. This is the passage generally used.

Hardwicke Island forms the North side of Johnstone Strait for 7 miles to
the westward of Thurlow Island, and is separated from the latter by Cliancellor
Channel, lending to Loughborough Inlet. Near its S.W. extremity. Earl
Ixtlije runs ofT for .3 cables, and only uncovers at low water. Two islets lie off
the West point of Dardwiekc, and outside them Fanny Reef, which covers or
is awash at high water.

Snnderland Channel leads between the const nnd the North shore of Hard-
wicke Island to Jackson liatj and Topaze ifarbour, where anchorage will be
found. The tides are here very violent nnd irregular, and the channel around
the island contains many stinken rocks and rocky islets.

Blinkinsop Bay, on the shore of IJritiiih Ccjlumbia, 2^ miles N.W. of Hard-
wicke Island, and 2.5 miles from Chatham i'oint, is about 1} mile deep, and
half a mile wide. This bay affords good nnchorngc, in 10 to 12 faliioms, about
one-third of a mile N,!). of its S.W. point, and is well slieltcred and easy of
access. A d-fatlioms shoal, marked by kelp, lies 1 cable N.W. by W. from
Tuna Point, the eastern point of the bay.

PORT NEVILLE, the next opening in IJritish Columbia, West of Rlin-
kinsop Ray, is of considerable extent, running in a north-easterly direction for
7 miles, and varying from one-quarter to 1 mile in breadth. It affords a
spacious and secure anchorage, but in consequence of (Jhannel Rock, lying
near the middle of its entrance channel, great caution is required in entering.
In the shoalcst part of the entrance channel there is not more than 2£ or 3
fathoms, and in the middle of its North part, .3^ cables S.W. i S. from Boulder
I'oint, is Channel Hock, of small extent and very dangerous, having only 4 ft.-
over it.

Robbers' Nob is a remarkable low grassy point on the North side of the
port, about 1 mile from Boulder Point; to the westward of it is a sboal bey,
into which flow some large streams. The best anchorage is about half a mil*
S.W. of the Nob in or 7 fathoms.

ifeil'?

'uM'i

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n'^' ■■'■ W**-'v

600

BRITISH COLUMBIA, ETC.

l: I

It is high wntor in Port NeTille, on full nnd change, at 0'' 30"*, the rise and
fall of tide being 17 feet.

The coost between Ports Neville nnd Ilnrvey runs in a W. by S. direction,
slightly indented. At 4 miles W. by S. i S. from the entrance of Port
NeTille, and one-quarter of a mile off shore, lies Slwipson Hcef, which covers
at half flood.

FORT HARVET, the next inlet westward of Port Neville on the North
Bide of Johnstone Strait, runs into the East end of Crncroft Islnnd in n
northerly direction for 4 miles, with a breadth varying from onc-(iuarter to
three-quarters of a mile, and affords good and well-sheltered onchornge in
7 to 9 fathoms, muddy bottom, at the distance of half n mile from its head.
From its head to the N.W. is a norrow gorge, which partly fills at high water
nnd joins Knight Inlet. The soundings in the entrance vary from GO to 80
fathoms, shoaling rapidly towards the head. Broken Islands, off the East side
of the entrance, are low, rugged, and of small extent.

It is high water in Port Harvey, on full and change, at 0"' 30"", and the rise
and fall of tide is 10 feet.

Escape Reef, lying 2 miles West of Broken Islands, ond half a mile ofF the
Nortli shore of Johnstone Strait, is about a cable in extent, has 4 ft. least water
on it, and is marked by kelp in the summer.

HAVANNAH CHANNEL, the western entrance of which is H mile North
of Broken Islands, runs in a north-easterly direction from the East side of Port
Harvey, connecting it with Call Creek. Its length is about 4 miles, and its
breadth varies from one-half to 1 mile. There are several islands within it,
which lie mostly in mid-channel. Boughey Bay, in the S.E. part of Ilavannah
Channel, is about 1 mile deep in a southerly direction, and half a mile broad.
A vessel may anchor in this bay at a distance of half a mile from the head.
Browning Bock, in the North part of Havannah Channel, about on i-third of a
mile North of Hull Island, has only 12 ft. over it, and lies nearly in the fairway
of the channel to Call Creek.

CALL CREEK, the South part of which may be said to commence at the
N.E. point of Havannah Channel, is an inlet of considerable extent, its length
in a north-easterly direction being 12 miles, and its breadth varying from one-
half to 1^ mile. The shores on cither side are high and precipitous, rising
abruptly to mountains from 1,000 to 4,700 ft. in height. The head termi-
nates in a low swamp.

Chatham Channel, the East port of which commences at Root Point, the
N.W. extreme of Havannah Channel, trends to the westward, connecting
these waters with Knight Inlet. It is not recommended to use this channel.
Copt. Vancouver's tender, the Chatham, a small brig, passed through this
channel to the westward in July, 1792, and the least water found was 3
fathoms.

Forward Bay, 3 miles W.S.W. from Port Harvey, is a slight bend in the

JOHNSTONE STRAIT— KNIGHT INLOT.

SOI

coast of Crncroft Island, about 1^ mile brood, nnd three-quarters of a miln
deep, with a small islet 30 ft. high ofT its S,\V. point. ' Its shores arc mode-
rately high, and n bank extends nearly 3 cables from its head. This bny
affords good anchorage, in 14 to 10 fathoms, off the edge of the bank; in
entering it from the eastward guard against I'^scapc Beef. From Forward Bay
the northern shore of Johnstone Strait becomes comparatively low, and trends
VV. by S. for 15 miles to Weynton Passage, at the termination of the strait.
Boat Harbour, a small cove affording shelter to boats, is 6 miles westward of
Forward Bay.

Hanson and Cracroft Islands, between Boat Harbour and Weynton
Pc "igc, are low, with rocky shores, and are separated by a passage 1 mile
wide. The South side of Hanson is 3 miles long, and off its S.W. point aro
some rocks extending for 2 or 3 cables to the wcstword. Off the South side
of Cracroft, at the distance of 2 miles from its West point, are the Sophia
Jslels, of small extent.

For a steamer, or a sailing vessel with a fair wind, the navigation of John-
stone Strait is perfectly easy, it being only requisite to keep in mid-channel,
except when nearing Ilelmcken Island from the eastward, when a vessel ought,
after passing Thurlow Island, to keep within 3 cables of the southern shore, or
Camp Point, till past Hippie Shoal, which, from being marked with kelp, is
likely to have less than 7 fathoms over it. In the vicinity of Helmeken the
tides are strong, but not enough to stop a steam-vessel of moderate power. To
the westward of it they have no great strength.

To the northward of Hanson and Cracroft Islands are numerous islands and
islets lying in the entrance of the channel leading to Knight Inlet. Between
the East and North sides of Hanson Island, and the West sides of Cracroft,
Harbledown, and Swanson Islands, is Blackfish Sound, leading to the channel
northward of Malcolm Island.

KNIGHT INLET, the Brazo de Vernacci of Galiano and Valdes, runs a
little northward of East, to the latitude of 50° 43', when its width somewhat
increases, and it thence takes an irregular northerly direction, to its final ter-
mination in lat. 51° G' N., long. 125° 37' W. The shores of it, like all the rest,
are formed by high, stupendous mountains, rising almost perpendicularly from
the water's edge. The dissolving snow on their summits produced many
cataracts, which fell with great impetuosity down ih"ir barren rugged sides,
and gave a pale white hue to the canal, rendering its contents entirely fresh
at its head, and drinkable for 20 miles below it. This dreary region was not,
however, destitute of inhabitants, as a village was discovered a few miles from
its upper extremity. At 10 miles westw^ard of the point where Knight Inlet
turns to the northward, the head of Call Creek approaches the southern shore
to within about a mile, forming the western part into a peninsula.

At 1 1 miles W.S.W. from this isthmus there is a wide passage leading from
the North side of Knight Inlet, with two islands lying in its entrance. The

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602

BRITISH COLUMBIA, KTC.

poswgc winds around Gilford Islnnd to the northward nnd westward for about
20 miles, having on the starboard or contincnt.il Hliorc two smaller inlets,
named by the Spanish surveyors the Drato de BalUer and Jialdinat, and now
named Thompson and Bond Soundi,

Deep Sea Bluff, the N.W. extreme of t.iis passage, and so named from its
appcarnnco nnd situation, is in lot. 60" 49' N., long. 120^ 30' W. The channel
itself is in some parts full l*" innumerable rocks and rockj fslcts, and in it the
tides ore very violent. The channel to tho S.W. from Dcop Sea IJlufT
separates two of tho larger islands of liroughton's Archipr'ingo, that to tho
northward being called Broughton Island, and ti.'^ southern Gilford Island.
It is about 12 miles in length, and was named Fi/e Sou:>d, Like all ihe rest,
it is very deep, and tho tides very irregular; on some days they were very
rapid, on others scarcely pcrceptille.

I'oinl JDtif, the S.E. point of Fife Passage, is tho West point of Eden Island;
n small rocky islet lies off it, covered with shrubs. I'oini Gordon, the ojjposito
point of entrance, bears N.W. IJ mile from Point Duff, and off it are several
white, lat, barren rocks, lying a little distance from the shore.

The land within this western entrance is not very high, composed of rugged
rocks steep to the sea, in the chasms an'l chinks of which a great number of
stunted or dwarf pines are produced. Some few natives also visit this part.

Between Deep Sea Bluff and the East point of Broughton Island ia an open-
ing leading to a series of channels, which insulate the latter. The first,
leading to the N.E., bears first to the N.E, and then to the West, forming n
narrow isthmus. Vancouver found n convenient station for procuring wood
and water, the only ia^iplies this dreary region affords, near the southern part
of this arm.

The shore of the main across this small opening from Deep Sea Bluff takes
a W. by N. direction for about 3 J miles ; and then turns to the northward to
a point where tho arm takes an easterly course from an island and several
rocky islets, forming passages for boats only to tho eastward, while to the
westward of the island, between it and Fotnt Philip, is a channel of about
2 n.iles in width, with some islets oiT tho latter. From this point an inlet
extends 7 miles to N.E. by N., where it branches into two arms, Wakeman
Sound to the N.W., and Kingcomle Inlet to the eastward. The latter extends
11 J miles to its head, in lat. 60° 56' N., long. 126" 11' W., when it terminates
in a similar way to the many before utsoribed. lis shores, about a mile apart,
are composed of steep, high, craggy mountains, whose summits are capped
with perpetual snow ; the lower cliffs, though apparently destitute of soil,
produce many pine trees, which seem to draw all their nourishment out of the
solid rock. From its southern shore a small branch, named Belleisle Soundi
extends about 3 miles to the S.W. by S.

Monnt Stephens, conspicuous for its irregular form and its elevation above
the rest of the hills in its neighbourhood, is in lat. 50" 58' N., long. 1 26° 40' W.,

BROUGIITON STIIAIT.

A08

M-

and Is 5,665 ft. liit;h. It will itcrvo ns an excellent guide to the entrance of
the various c>utnnulu with which this country ahounds. It stands on tho
N.W. side of tho inlet just described, and to tho N.N.W. of Point Philip.

From Point Philip, tho contincnttd shore takes a W. i S. direction for about
1i miles, forming an irregular channel, named Sutlej Channel, with the North
shoro of Broughton Island. At this point it becomes divided into several
channels ; Mackenzie Sound, that to the northward, takes u direction
N.H. by E. for 7 miles, terminating, as usual, at tho base of Mount Stephens.
This narrow and intricate passage is only adniisuiblo for boats, and appears to
be a chasm caused by some natural convulsion. 'I'hc stupendous mountains on
each side of it prevent a due circulation of the air, and exclude tho rays of the
sun, rendering it a most uncomfortable place.

Westward of tho entranco of this passage there is an excessively dangerous
channel, so caused by the innumerable rocks with which it is bestrewed, and
the irregularity of the tides, which runs first to tho West and then to tho
South. To the westward of this again, Drury Inlet leads for 12 miles to t' u
W. by S. ; there arc many rocky islets and sunken rocks in it, rendering
it gerous even for boats. Near its termination is a very narrow opening
I \orthern shore, winding 5 miles towards the N.K., and named Actaon

ooi...u, replete with overfalls and sunken rocks, and ending in a cascade,
similar to many others hereabouts. These arc perfectly salt, and seem to owe
their origin to the tidal waters, which in general rise 17 ft., and, at high
water, render these falls imperceptible, by the rocky bar being 4 to ft.
beneath the surface. Within a few yards of one of these cascades, a con-
siderable stream of warm fresh water was discovered. Vancouver found a
small Indian village on a rocky islet near this part.

From the mouth of the principal arm, and of that previously described, a
channel leads S.W. into the main channel, separating Vancouver Island from
the continent. It was named by Vancouver Well's Passage, and is about
8 miles long. The S.W. point, in lat. 50° 49' N., long. 127= 2' W., was named
Point Boyles ; off it lie some islets, and lioncc the continental shore runs to tho
W. by N. for 37 miles to Capo Caution, which may be taken as the limit of
Queen Ch.a-lotte Sound, the N.W. entrance of the very singular and extousivo
inland navigation we have been describing.

At 11 miles W. by N. of Point Boyles is Blunden Harbour, lying within
Bobinson Island. Its entrance, wiuch is 2J cables wide, lies between tho
East end of Robinson Island and Barren liock, 12 ft. high, and has a depth of
6 to 9 fathoms. There is anchorage in 4 fathoms, northward of the West end
of Bobinson Island.

BROUGHTON STRAIT, which connects Queen Charlotte Sound with
Johnstone Strait, is upwards of 14 miles in length, East and West, the breadth
varying from 4 miles at the East to 1 mile at the West entrance. Its southern
shore is formed by Vancouver Island, and the northern one b^ the South side

H'V

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niUTISlI COMiMIUA. V.Vl'.

of Mnlrnlin loliinit, nml liolli. rxi'i'pl ni'nr llrnvor ( 'iiv<\ mo low. Tlicfo nr©
Hovoi'hI irilntiilR, rookn. nnil ulionln in llu' riiHti'iii piii I ; Iml n olrnr iiitvij^ahlo
]iiiH.<iii^iMt1<in^; tlio smillinn side Itulf ii milo witli< in (lio iitMrowi'Ht. |ilnri', wliioU
js nluniinl ,\l(>rl I'ny m < 'oiiiicniiiif IhIiuuI.

7ViA». Ill llrotifrlilon Sduil it im lni;li wiiliT, on !\ill nml oliiui^(\ n< ()'' HO",
tho ri^o nnd full of liiio hoing II m- I '> I'l.

HiiftVnr Covo, i>( llic H.K. cxlioinn nf llrmnc'itmi Stmit. riiii« in njiwnnU of
n niilo III 11 Hdiilticilv iliii'cliiin, mul iw liulf ii miii wnl"; ili nli.ircH mo liigh,
mill (lii> ili'jilli i.i (no (rii'iil I'lir mii'liiiiMtri'. I'',m'i'1Iiii( in.iililo in roiitul lioro,
ncviniil (nun dC wliicli were ijiiiinioil nml (iiliiMi In \'ii'liiri!i. Monti/ /ln/ils-
u'l'iih, II ii'iiiiii Kiilil(> oimio.'il priiK, il.O(() fl. lii))1i, mul X'l y rniiN|iuiiniiiM (Vuiu
t!ii< I'li'ilwmil. li'ii'i .'t iiiili'.M lit lliM S.W. (»r (he covc'.

Nimpkinli lUvor, wlii^li (Inwfi inlo u hIihUciw Iwiy >>ii tlw> Snnlh ulinro. A luilcR
W(<'<l\viinl 111" ltii;ivi>r t 'ovo, ri iipwiiiii'i nf ii I'lililo wtdo iil onti'mioo, wilii \'^
fillhotllH, lull only navigiiMo dir iiny tli"liitii'o liy omioim. A liiink ilrioH nil' for
nciiiiv II niilis li'iuiiifr u nminw cliniiiu'!, wilii iilmiit t> i\. wiilor, iiilo Jlio
i'iv(<i' On Iho Nmlli litiiiK 111' (liii Niiiijilii^li, nl lli<< oiitriuu'O, in ii ninitll
|iliili<mi of [riiifisv Imnl. on wiiioii mo (lio iiiiiin of ii Imgii imlivo villii(ro, cullcil
<'/)c.v/i;/,<if.

I'orf MllNoiU, on tlio Sniltil hIiIo of llii>iip;lili)ii Stinil, nlioiil 10 iiiiloH Wont
fioiii Hoiivoi ('iivo, iiiiiM in !» W.S.W. iliroolion I'm- ',' huIob, ih (linv i|iiMiloi'fl of
fi oiilo tiioiiil. mill nlloniM ii fMinii, woll mIioIIoioiI mioliiir.'i^-<<, in (> In !l fiitlioniN.
l''loin I.rdj^o roiiil, (lio Noilli poiiil of I'lili iiiico, ii iimiow lodf^o willl M (o ft
fiillioiiin on i(, iiiii'i mil l''iN,l''.. Ij iiiilo, mid Kolp (;i o« m nvrr il in iiiiiiinirr,
h'.rl Ucel, lyiiii; !• ouliios S S \V. I'lnin l.iilfj;o {'01111, mid iilioiil ? ciildrii nlf (lui
Soilfli (ilioi(< of (III' |ii'l I, oovnii ill (liiiO <|il:u(ii': llood. 'I'lio ooil'if finiil I'nll
MoNrill rilliH iilioiil. VV.S.NV. i iiiiIcm. (o llio fiiliiinro of IJiircn ('liiiiloKo
Sound.

Woyiltoil PrrhRR'O. /Vhchc hUtnA^, in tiio milio of Kioiinlilon Slniil, ii(.
lis oiihIith onlrmioo, nro 11 f-Moiip of niiinll low mliiiid", willi iioino rookx i'\loiid-
ing II nIioiI diHlmioo Noilli mid S.lv of (lioiii. Wryiidm rdhjiiigo Im^Iwooi)
IIiiiiMin iitid I'oiliHO iHlmidii, 111 iilioiil I] iiiilo wulo, iind iiiiIohii wtiiitinp, In
nnolioi' ill Milolioll Miiy, if oiiglil iiol. to lio iimmI, llio tidi^ rufiliinp, tliroiip.li it iit
fioni *i to (> kiiolH.

/.'

/'ii.v,vii./c, liotwooii I'l'itrno mid ( 'oriiioriiiil. iHliiiidfi, in two tliiidn of 11

til

ilo wide, liiil II rook lion in mid oliiiiimd iit iln Suntli piul. 'I'lio pii)iniif;[o ii«
diiiigoious. f i'»>iiii»<»M^ lalitiul liiTi in tlio rontto of (lin nliiiil to |li«i W'i'mI. »if
I'l'iiino Irilmidii. It ill iilioul \M fl. Iiigli, mid VM niilt'ii Ioik', Miiiit mid Woiit,

(innloii I'oiiil, ill! S.M. r^troiiio,

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\V. liy N. fioin I'.oiiyor ( "ovo.

Alort Hnyi on tlio Houfl. »ido of ('oinioiunl iHlmid, in iiomly 1

lllllO WKll

nnd liiilf II milo dorp, alloi'din^ 11 (.rood mid woll nliidti'ii'd miolioirigo in from
tl (11 ".» futlionin, lllllddy lioKoiii. ) rll<>tr fUuft, tho S.W. point of llio li«y, miiyr
bi< iiH'o^iiixod liy n rciiiiiikiiblo yellow i lill iil (lin cxtti'iiio of (ho point. A

npv

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IU!or(illl«>N SIK.MI qiiKKN t'UAUI.oriJ' SOliNH, fto;.

jili'f, mii'liinn iiilo iit'oiH IV ti wmIit, oxIimuU iVmu tlio iiim (ImminIim ii hhmi' nf
(liiN Imj-. A ini|)|ilv ol' woml ('ill' fitriiiiiiti^ iitniiDHPd oan hp itblniiUMl. 'I'Uerp \h
n BttliiKin oniinf I _v lino.

Ihufiiiut/Om inlitfiii. 7 nvilr* W'cni of lloiivi'i Covr. in J.h«> or'tilrf of Itroiii^lilnit
Sliiiit, i« ■inilll. lis Soullt tiiiil \V<'nl NiiliH iiir Ht<'i>|i In. luil friiiii ll|i< tioi itiiMii
out' II lull, widi im lilllo H8 !t 1\. \vn(cr m »i>!uo jnuti. niiiB Hoioes tlio nUuit <o
Mtilriilm IkIiuiiI.

Uctwrrn llii<)ilin);<oti IrIhiiiI nnil (lio Ip(I({i> iiiiiiuiig olV (Vmn the North |iiiin(
of I'oi t MoNrill, '1 II |i!iNNii^i< dui'i' >|iiiiiti'in of h niilo \viil(\ Hi(li \\o( Icsb (luiii
7 fiillloiun wiiti'i III mill rl\tioni').

MALCOLM ISLAND, wludi f.>ni»i tlio Nordi ni.Io of Hvonnliion S(ini(, i»
l.'^i nitloH lonf{ W.S.W. mid IvN.l'. , widi iiii iivcni^i' Iinwultli of miiiiv 'i
iiiilrn ; (lie kIhhc-b mo jjiMdMiilly low, ii siuidy iioiioli oxlciiiliiig olf ii mImhI iIik
(iiiu'o from (lioiii On iln Sonlli hkIo mo .\ti/i'fifll i\iu\ lu>u>jh luiyx, in wlui'li
voMNrU ninv niit'lnn' in d or H fiulioniH l>,<nf,ji>l tir-iui, iIh Vm-A poinl. I'l lunli.
cliHV, liotilonil liy It l)r!iol(. iinil llio liilo hoih udoiiii in \\t vnnufy Pukfiifi'ii
Point, on (Iw Sonlli »nli' of (tii< I'lliiin), in ronnrcd'tl 1)y ii l>m, uilh 11 l\ in
homo pmln, to llaililin^diii IhIiiuiI. I'onl ^iiininl, liuuUoil liy K(>l|i, r\lrililR oU
i(M wosd'in Hiiliv

1)1HKCTI()N8. In nnvifcntitim nron^;Ii<on N(riii( fioni (lio ohkIwiuiI, wlion
iili.i'iisl liiiivoi Covo in mill oKimnol, ii \V. \ S. roninr. In jui.-ifi not iiioto tliiili
'-' oiiiili'n Sonlli of ( '■'••inoiiini I-lno.l. will Ki'fji a vc;.... 1 >i«iii io ilni norHiwiiul
of Niili|iliiNli llmik, mill wlion llio \Vpn( poiilf. of ('oiniomnt InIiiihI Iioiun
N. liY I'" kIk' will lio wi^^lwiml of if ; (lion »(oi'i to luiiiiil lin' .'vW |inin( of
I liiililiii(<ton l^liiiiil williili 11 i|niirtrr of il niilr, In .'ivonl llio loii)JO ulf I .oil^o
Point , wlioii tll<> North nlion- of t 'oiinoiiinl l»lmiil o|ii<iin of nMiltliii):^lon I'llmnl
I'", liy N,,u vonnol inny kIoii onl of llio nlmil in mnl rli;ninrl. ISono. oxoopl
f.miill iMiil^, r.lioiilil |jo III llir noiiliwiinl of I liiililinj^Jon Inhiinl. Siiihii){ vonnoU
of iinv "ir.o wtinlii tinil il toilionn to lirtit iliioiipji llioi nliiiil, iiml iin llioro me
Ntivoiiil iliin|{i'in il in not rooonimoniloil to ilii no

UUKKN (MIARLOTTK KOIINI) i» un nilrn^vo mm of tho nn. mioil, >!.r

tho iiiiii'i w.'itnn Noilli nf \'mii'iiii\i'i li.l.nul «illi llio Piioiliiv It w,ii no
iimnoil liv < 'iijil S. W'oilglioroiifj.li, of tlio I'l/in inyriif, in IVMl), ||n |fMi(.>lll in
ii|i\viirilM of •'to miliTi. iiiiininp, in mi oiikti'ilv iliiii'lion, mnl it'< lirruilth vmion
t'liiin ID III VII ini1i<>4, liinn^ lioiiniloil on llio Noilli liy llio hIioion oI UmIimIi
( 'oliimliiii. mill on llio Nonlli Iiy tho No: III nIioio of \iiiiioiivoi |ril;inil In llio
Ninth mill N I'l. |iiirl-i mo iiinunioi'ilhli' nu-lin miil inimiilt. <>f wliioli lilllo ih ill
iilorii-iit Unown; liiif iiloiip, itn aoiitlioiii niiloN luo two liiuml mnl iiiivi^iililo
oIiiiiiiioIn to tho I'lii'itio

Hioli^litoit Slinil I'lilorn lliin noiiinl ill itn S.I'', piiil. I'loin tlioiKio (o
'I lioniiiH I'oiiil llio ciiiml ol N'mnoiivi'i niii'i \\ In ;\ loi !• inilim, mnl ii
low , It IM lioriU'loil tlio w,,olo ilidlmno \<\ ii lioiioll ooiii|iii,'<iil of miihI mnl

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AorCA I'linfii

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606

BRITISH COLUMBIA, ETC.

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boulders, and foul grooad marked by kelp exists off it, from one quarter to
half a mile.

BEAVER HABBOXIB, on the South side of the sound, 9 miles westward of
Broughtou Striiit, is 3 miles wide at the entrance and 2 miles deep. The
harbour is protected or formed by several islanda lying across and within the
entrance ; its shores are low, and from the South shore a bank extends olf
3 or 4 cables. A short distance inland from its western side are seven
remarkable hills, varying in height from 100 to 640 ft. There is good an-
chorage in the South and West parts of the harbour, but north-easterly winds
send in a heavy sea, rendering it impossible to land on the South shore for
days together.

Fort Rupert, a Hudson Bay Company's fort or trading post, is on the
South shore ; it has been established many years, and is in charge of a chief
trader. Adjacent to it is a small quantity of clear land, also a very fine
garden, where fruit and vegetables, common to the climate, are grown in great
abundance. In the vicinity of the fort is a large native village.

I'homas Point, the S.E. ^".xtreme of tbe harbour, is low and rocky ; some
rocks lie upwards of 2 cables off it to the westward. The channel between it
and Deer Island is about 4 cables wide, and clear of danger. Moffat Rock,
8 cables to the westward of Thomas Point, is 3 cables off shore, just at the
outer edge of the bank, and uncovers at low water.

Deer Island, two- thirds of a mile North of Thomas Toint, i.^ about 1^ mile
in circumference, wooded, and about 240 ft. high ; extending nearly 4 cables
off its N.W. part is a reef marked by kelp, with 9 ft. water over it. Hound
Island, half a mile N. by E. of Deer Island, is small, but high, and con-
spicuous from the eastward. Fejl Island, in the North part of Beaver Har-
bour, is three-quarters of a mile long S.W. and N.E., and between it and the
West shore of the harbour is a passage 2 cables wide in the narrowest part,
with 17 fathoms water. There is a good ciiimnel into the harbour, close
along the East side of Peel Island, which is steep -to. Cattle Islands, wiiich
lie in the middle of the harbour, are small and connected with each other at
low water. At IJ cable South of them is Shell Islet, the observation spot on
which is in lat. 50° 42' 36" N., long. 127'' 25' 7" W. ; a reef awash at high
water lies 1 cable South of it. Cormorant Rock, lying one-third of a mile oft'
the western shore of the harbour, and nearly half a mile West of Shell Islet,
covers at high water. A 3i-fathoms patch lies midway between this rock and
Cattle Islands.

Dcedalus Passage, leading from the West part of Beaver Harbour to the
northward, is 2 cables wide in its narrowest part, and has not leas than 17
fathoms in mid-channel.

Beaver Harbour is easy of access to either sailing vessels or skeamcrs.
There are three passof^es into it, but the switUei* one. between Thomas i'oint
and Deer Island, ib the best, and generally used, being wide enough for a

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j- i'

GOLETAS CHANNEL.

607

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vessel to beat through. There is anchorage in 10 to 12 fathoms, about 2 cables
S.E. of Shell Islet, but there is better shelter in northerly winds westward of
Cattle Islands, in 6 to 9 fathoms.

It is high water in Beaver Harbour, on full and change, at 0** SO", and the
rise and fall is from 1.5 to 16 feet.

Hardy Bay, to the westward of Beaver Harbour, and separated from it by
Dillon Point, runs in a southerly direction for 4 miles ; its breadth at the en-
trance is 2 miles, nanowing to the bead. There is no anchorage, except in
the small creek at the head, whicb iij difficult of access, and should not be used
by a stranger. Foul ground exists between Masterman Islet and the N.E.
point of the bay.

GOLE" / 8 CHANNEL, which runs along the North shore of Vancouver
Island to the Pacific, is 22 miles long East and West, with a breadth varying
from 1 to :ii miles. Its shores are high, rugged, and steep-to, except in the
western part, and may be generally approached to a quarter of a mile. The
northern side is composed of a group of islands, mostly small, through which
are several navigable passages. There are four anchorages within the channel ;
Shushartie Bay on the South side ; Port Alexander, Shadwell Passage, and
Bull Harbour on the North side ; and all, with the exception of the latter, are
easily accessible to sailing vessels. Duval Point, on the South side at the
eastern entrance of the channel, is 15 miles West of Broughton Strait.

The soundings throughout the channel to the West entrance are vei y deep,
varying from 190 to 80 fathoms, but there the bottom suddenly rises from
40 to 7 and 9 and in one part to less than 3 fathoms, forming Nahwitti Bar,
stretching completely across the channel, and in a great measure preventing
any heavy sea rising inside it during westerly gales.

Tides. — It is high water in Goietas Channel, on full and change, at O*" SO",
and the rise and fall varies from 12 to 14 ft. The streams in the East part of
the channel run from 1 to 3 knots, but near the West entrance, in the vicinity
of Nahwitti Bar, they are much stronger, running from 2 to 6 knots, turning
shortly after high and low water by the shore.

Shushartie Bay. — From Duval Point the South s^hore of Goietas (!!hannel
runs 15 miles in a westerly direction to Shushartie Buy, with a rugged rocky
outline ; it is everywhere steep-to. Shushartie Bay is about half a mile in
extent, and its shores are high, except at the head, from which a sand-bank
runs off more than 2 cables. There is a very limited but fairly sheltered an-
chorage just inside the N.K. point of the bay, in about 1 3 fathoms, at the distance
of a cable offshore, but from the steepness of the bank it should only be con-
sidered as a stopping-place. Dillon Rock, which covers at one quarter flood
at Ijl cable West of the East point of the bay, is in the way of vessels entering
from the eastward. Southward of the bay is Shushartie SailJle, a double-
topped mountain, 1,900 ft. high; its eastern peak benriny S. f E., leads West

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of Dillon Kock. Anchor on tho eastern shore immediately 14 fathoms i»
obtained.

Shingle Point, 2 miles West of Rliushartie Ray, is low, and n heach nins off
it a short distance. Westward of this point it is difficult to land, except in fair
weather.

CAPE COMMERELL, 22 miles West of Duval Point, is the northernmost
point of Vancouver Island, and the South point of the West entrance to Ooletas
Channel. The cape is low, and some rocks extend off it for nearly 2 cables.
There is an Indian village on the Kast side of the cape. Tho large bay east-
ward of the cape is not fit for anchorage.

Oordon Group consists of a number of small islands running in an East and
West direction for .5 miles, and bordering the North part of the East entrance
of Goletas Channel. They are high and steep-to, and on the eastern or Doyle
Island is Miles f'nne, a romurkable summit .'580 ft high.

Duncan Island, I mile South of the Oordon Group, is about a mile in cir-
cumference, and 300 ft. high. Chrintic. Passage, between the West side of the
Oordon Group and Halaklava Island, is half a mile wide ; its shores are free
from danger. Jlroioniug Passage, to the West of Balaklava Island, between
it and Galiano Island, runs in a north-westerly direction from tlie Ooletas to
New Channel. It is about 3 miles long, and 2 cables wide in the narrowest
part ; it is deep, and a mid-channel course through is free from danger. The
tide is very weak in this channel.

OALIANO ISLAND, the largest of the islands on the North side of Goletas
Channel, is of triangular shnpe, nearly 8 miles long, and 3J miles broad, the
base fronting to the southward. The shores are very much broken along the
North and East sides. Mount Lemon, a remarkable peak of conical shape
1,200 ft. high, rises near its S.W. part, and Port Alexander is formed at its
8.E. extreme. The South side of the island is high and clilfy.

Port Alexander, upwards of 7 miles from Duval I'oint, and on the West
Hide of Itrowning Channel, runs in a north-westerly direction for li mile, with
a general breadth of about 4 cables. This port is easy of access to steamers and
sailing vessels with a fair wind, and affords good anchorage in 12 to 1.'! fathoms,
half a mile from its head, well sheltered from all except south-easterly winds.

Shadwell Passage, in the N.W. part of Goletas Cl.annel, between Galiano
and Hope Islands, is 3i miles long in a northerly direction, and its breadth
varies from one half to 1 J mile. The soimdings in the South part of this
passage are from 80 to 100 fathoms, decreasing ranidly from 9 to 13 fathoms
to the northward.

J'ansittart Island, in the centre of the passage at its North part, is 1 mile
long. Some rocks and small islets extend 6 cables West of it. Willes Islaml,
at the S.E. part of the pnssnge, is steep-to, and may bo approached to a cable,

Centre Island, in the middle of the passage, and 5 cables S.W. from Vansit-
laJt Island, is small, and vessels may anchor 2 or 3 cables N.W, of it, shcl-

OOLETAS CIIANNKI^TIOPE ISI^AND.

609

t-
l-

tcrtd from all but northerly winds. Suwanee Rttrh, dryiiifi; 4 ft. at low wiitcr
spring tides, lies nearly a cable W. by S. J S. from Centre iHland, rendering
the passage unsuitable for any but small vessels, with local knowledge. One
Tree Islet, 4 cables We.st of Vansittart, with rocks and foul ground between,
is small, about 40 ft. high, and ha.s a single tree on its suiniiiil, which is very
con.'pieuous when seen from the northward, and of great use in identifying the
pansage. Cape James, the N.W. extreme of Shadwell Passage, is a rocky bluff;
some rocks extend off it to the 6outhWii;'d for a short distance, and foul ground,
marked by kelp, exists between it and Turn Point.

The South peak of Magin Saddle (on the West end of Galiano Island) in
line with the East end of Centrj Island, bearing S S.E., leads through the
northern entrance of Shadwell Passage, passing half a mile East of Cape Jamcsi
and li cable West of IJrcaker Reef.

Shadwell Passage may bo used by steamers or sailing vessels with a fair
wind. It would hardly be prudent to beat a large vessel through it, as there
is generally a heavy swell and strong tide in the North part. It is the passage
usually taken by the Hudson Hay Company's vessels when bound North from
the inner waters. Vessels may pass either eastward or westward of Vansittart
Island, Hate Passage, the eastern passage, being deeper, and nearly straight.

HOPE ISLAND, the westernmost of the group which forms the North side
of Goletas Channel, is G miles long, East and West, and its greatest breadth is
3| miles. The island is moderately high, and its shores are very much broken.
The sea breaks heavily along its North and West sides, and oiT Mexicaua Point,
the western extreme, a reef extends 3 cables. The South shora is steep, and
may be approached to one quarter of a mile.

Bull Harbour has its entrance on the South side of Hope Island, 2 miles
from the western entrance of Goletas Channel. Though small, this harbour
afibrds a very secure landlocked anchorage. It runs in a northerly direction
for 1 J mile across Hope Island, its head being only separated from the North
■horc of the island by a narrow neck of low land, 403 ft. wide ; its breadth at
the entrance is 5 cables, contracting to 1 cable at half the distance from tho
head, after which it again increases to nearly 2 cables.

Indian Island, \i cable North of the narrowest part of tho entrance, is
small, but comjiletely shuts in the harbour to the southward, leaving a passage
1 cable wide, on its eastern side. The anchorage is to the northward of this
island, in about 4 fathoms water, but there is only room for one or two vessels
of moderate size to lie moored. If intcniling to enter Hull Harbour, steer up
mid-channel, parsing East of Indian Island, and moor immediately the vessel is
North of it, anchors North and South. Steamers, or only small sailing vessels,
should use this anchorage, as from its narrow and tortuous entrance it is rather
difficult of access to long vessels.

Nahwitti Bar, or Ledge, stretching across the West entrance of Oolctas
Channel, is of sandstone formation, and on the eostt^..^ udgo rises sudUcnl) fiuui

*' 'fli*' ■,( '

_:„ ^ ^ :..^ ^titxta

510

BRITISH COLUMBIA, ETC.

B;f '! M

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40 to 9 fathoms, the depth increasing very gradually to the westward. Its
breadth within the lO-fathoms line is from 1 to nearly 3 miles, broadest at the
South part, where are sercral shoal spots, called Talnall Reefs, with 2^ and 3 J
fathoms, at a distance of 1^ mile from the South shore ; northward of these
patches the depths vary from 6 to 9 fathoms. In heavy westerly gales the sea
breaks right across Goletas Channel at this bar.

Lemon Point, Galiano Island, open North of Shingle Point, Vanoourer
Island, bearing E. by N., leads over Nahwitti Bar in the deepest water from 7
to 9 fathoms, well to the northward of Tatnall Reefs.

NEW CHANNEL, to the northward of Goletas Channel, and separated from
it by the islands which form the North shore of the latter, is an extensive elear
passage to the Pacific Ocean, about 12 J miles long, with a breadth varying
from 1^ to 4 miles, Its depth in the shoalest part is 60 fathoms, near the
eastern entrance, and its shores, except near the West part of the Gordon
Group, may be approached to nearly half a mile ; the North limit of the chan-
nel is formed by Walker Group to the eastward, and a few low rocks and islets
to the N.W.

Generally a heavy swell sets through New Channel from the westward, and,
with the exception that there is more room for a large vessel to work in or out
than in Goletas Channel, there is no reason to use it in preference to the latter,
unless, if running in before a heavy westerly gale, the sea were breaking across
the West entrance of Goletas Channel at Nahwitti Bar. If the wind be fair a
mid-chaunel course, about W. by N., will take a vessel clear through it.

Doyle Island, the south-easternmost of the Gordon Group, and at the S.E.
point of New Channel, is three-quarters of a mile long, and, as before stated,
has a remarkable summit, 380 ft. high. Miles Cone, on its centre. Crane Islets
are small, 30 ft. high, and steep-to, there being 100 fathoms wnter at a cable's
distance. They lie 2^ miles westward of Doyle Island, and about 3 cables
North of Gordon Group.

£oi/le Island, 1 i mile West of Crane Islets, and half a mile North of Hurst
Island, is small ; at half a mile N.W. of it is Grey Rock, which covers at one-
quarter flood, and is dangerous to vessels beating through this channel. Crane
Islets just touching the North side of Gordon Group, E. by S. } S., leads nearly
half a mile North of it.

The North shore of Balaklava Island is rugged, and half a mile N.W. from
its N.W. point are three low islets, 6 ft. above high water, at the North en-
trance to Browning Channel.

The North shore of Galiano Island is also rugged ; some outlying rooks lie a
short distance of it, but it may be approached to one-third of a mile. The
northern shore of Hope Island should not be approached within half a mile.

WALKER OB0T7P, at the N.E. part of New Channel, from 2 to 3 miles
North of its South side, is composed of a number of small islands and rocks,
porering an extent of 6 miles in a westerly direction, and 2 miles broad, the

'^t

QTTEEN CHARLOTTE SOUND.

511

highest being about 300 U. above the sea. Among them are several small
creeks and bights, which would afford shelter to boats, or even small craft.
Castle Point, at the S.E. extreme of the group, is bold, cliffy, and stecp-to, with
no bottom at 60 fathoms 2 cables South of it. White Rock, at the South ex-
treme of the group, lies 2 miles W.S.W. from Castle Point, and is 4 ft. above
high water. Nye Rock, off the South end of Schooner Passage, at the West
part of the group, covers at high water ; it lies W. i N., 2 J miles from White
Rock, and may be approached to 2 cables on the South side, but large vessels
should not stand inside it to the northward.

Redfern Island, the S.W. of Walker Group, is about half a mile long, and
one quarter of a mile wide ; half a mile S.E. of it are some rocks just above
high water. Prosser Rock, 2 miles W. by N. f N. of Redfern Island, is small,
and about 2 ft. above high water. Nearly a mile farther in the same direction
is Bright Islet, 100 ft. high.

Fine and Storm Islands, with their surrounding islands and reefs, occupy
the middle of the western approach to Queen Charlotte Sound, and form the
eastern margin of dangers between Shad well Passage and Cape Caution.
Fine Island, bold, rocky, and covered with trees, is about 250 ft. high, and
lies 4f miles N.E. by N. from Cape James. It is about a mile in circum-
ference, and Tree Islets lie half a mile N.E. of it. Sunken Rock, on which the sea
breaks in bad weather, lies 1 i mile East of Pine Island. Storm Islands are a
narrow chain of islands, about 2 miles long East and West, and form a most
useful landmark when crossing Queen Charlotte Sound. The western of these
islands bears from Pine Island N.W. by N. 3 miles, and from Cape Caution
S.E. by S., distant 8 miles. There are no outlying dangers beyond 3 cables.
The tops of the trees are from 150 to 200 ft. high, and on the western part
was a conspicuous single tree. Water can be obtained at the Indian fishing
station on Storm Islands.

Sealed Passage, between Pine Island and Storm Islands, is about 2^ miles
wide, and Blind Reef, on which the sea breaks in heavy weather, extends
nearly across. This passage should not be attempted. South Rock, awash at
low water, lies If mile E. i S. from Beid Island, the easternmost of Storm
Islands. Middle Rock, covered at three-quarters flood, lies 1 mile N. by W.
from South Rock. North Rock, awash at high water, lies N.E. nearly three-
quarters of a mile from Middle Bock.

Slingsby Channel, 4 miles north-eastward of Storm Islands, leads to Seymour
and Belize Inlets ; it is 5 miles in length, with an average breadth of 3 cables,
between the Outer Narrows and Nak-wak-to Bapids. In the Outer Narrows,
which are 1 cable in width, with no bottom at 40 fathoms, the tides run from
4 to 10 knots, strongest on the ebb, the change of tide being attended with an
interval of about 15 minutes slack water. With the wind blowing in, the
entrance breaks across.

Nak-wak-to Rapids (Kah-tsis-illa), at the eastern end of Slingsby Channel,

i'f

f 1 "-■

■^■^'fmmf^-

512

BRITISH COLUMBIA, ETC.

'i ir

111, I *! "

are 2 cables iu width, with Turret Island, 80 ft. high, in the centre, against
which the tide rushes with great fury. The channel westward of the islet ha»
a 12-ft. rock in it; that to the eastward is from 6 to 11 fathoms deep. The
ebb here attains a velocity of 20 knots at springs.

Steam vessels may enter the Outer Narrows in fine weather at or near slack
water, and proceed to Trcadwell Bay, 4 miles within the entrance on the
North shore, where anchorage will be found in from 9 to 15 fathoms, avoiding
the shoal of 1 5 ft. southward of the centre of the bay. To proceed through
Xak-wak-to Rapids, which should only be done on emergency, the turn of the
tide should be most carefully watched, so that the vessel may with certainty
make the passage during the only 10 minutes of slack water, for at no other
time would it be possible to do so with any degree of safety.

Within Slingsby Channel are Seymour and Belize Inlets, extending to the
eastward, and forming between them a long peninsula, which is again indented
by Nugent SottnJ, the entrance of the latter being nearly opposite Slingsby
Channel. These inlets are similar to the others, narrow and deep, with lofty
shores.

The Coast from Cape Commerell (page 508), the N.W. point of Vancouver
Island, takes a S.W. direction for 16 miles to Cape Scott. It is rather low,
but rises at a distance inland to hills 800 and 1 ,000 ft. high ; it is indented by
several bays, which, however, are too open to afford any shelter, except in
southerly winds ; foul ground extends off in some places more than 1 mile.

HECATE BOCK, lying W. ^ S. IJ mile from Cape Commerell, and three-
quarters of a mile off shore, covers at three-quarters flood, and the sea breaks
heavily over it. Lemon Point, Galiano Island, just open of, or touching.
Shingle Point, Vancouver Island, E. by N., leads three-quarters of a mile
North of it.

At Cape Scott the flood cornea from the southward, and rounding the cape
sets into Goletas Channel, its strength varying from 1 to 3 knots.

SCOTT CHANNEL, between Cape Scott and Scott Islands to the westward,
is 5i miles wide, with soundings in it varying from 25 to 40 fathoms. It is a
safe navigable channel for any class of vessel, the only known dangers in it
being the rocks extending nearly a mile West of Cape Scott. The tide runs
through from 1 to 3 knots, the flood from the southward.

SCOTT ISLANDS extend nearly 20 miles in an East and West direction ;
the principal ones being five in number, with some adjacent smaller islets.
There are wide passages between the western islands, but as no soundings
have been obtained in them, and strong tide ripples and overfalls have in-
variably been observed raging there, no vessel should venture among or
through them, unless compelled to do so.

Westward of Cape Scott the tides set with considerable strength to the
North and South across the entrance of Goletas Channel, and a vessel passing

?! Vi

THE COAST OF BRITISH COLUMBIA.

513

■;/:,f

out northward of Scott Islands must beware that she is not set down too near
them with the ebb stream.

Cox Island, the easternmost and largest of the group, and 1,047 ft. high,
is about 2i miles in extent, with ironbound rocky shores and several off-lying
dangers. This island forms the western boundary of Scott Channel, and is up-
wards of 6 miles W. by S. from Cape Scott.

Lanz Island, separated from Cox Island by a passage half a mile wide, is
2J miles long in a westerly direction, and a mile broad ; its shores, like Cox
Island, are rocky, and it rises near the centre to a summit 1,177 ft. above the
sea. Both the islands are wooded.

£ast Hat/cock, a small islet 80 ft. high, is 2 J miles S.W. from Lanz Island ;
it has a rugged outline, and some islets extend N.W. of it. West Haycock, 5
miles W. ^ S. from East Haycock, is small and rocky, about 1 80 ft. high. Some
islets extend over a mile S.W. of it, with foul ground around them.

Triangle Island, the westernmost of the group, is 26 miles W. by S. fi.om
Cape Scott : it is 680 ft. high, about a mile in extent, and differs from the other
islands in being very precipitous and bare of trees, and has a remarkable gap
in its summit. A ledge or reef extends 1 mile N.W. of it ; to the eastward are
three low islets, the outermost of which, 40 ft. high, is 1|^ mile from Triangle
Island.

In navigating near Scott Islands, it is recommended to give them a good
offing, especially in a sailing vessel, as the tides set very strongly through the
passages between them.

This will complete the description of the circuit of Vancouver Island. Its
seaward coast has been included in the previous Chapter, and this terminated
at Cape Scott. Of its interior, it would be out of place to dwell upon here ;
but at the conclusion of this Chapter some of the more recent works on the
subject are enumerated.

The COAST of British Columbia, to the northward of Queen Charlotte
Sound, is less known and frequented than that adjacent to Vancomer Island.
For its delineation and description we were, up to the time of the more recent
British surveys, chiefly dependant on the excellent work of Vancouver. Al-
though of old date, this was of less importance, inasmuch as from the nature
of the coast, an ironbound region not liable to change its character, the careful
survey, as far as it went, was a sufficient guide. As it is, it remains in almost
its primeval condition. The population is chiefly Indian, and they are both
intelligent and industrious, performing nearly all the labour of the salmon-
canning and lumbering industries, which have gained a foothold here.

During the years 1864 — 1870, Staff-Commander D. Pender, K.N., assisted
by several other officers, surveyed the outer coast and islands from Cape
North Pacific. <i u

\C:'^'

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814

BRITISn COLUMBIA.

I I i

I; I

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I '

Cnution to the Portli nd Canal, the northern limit of British Columbia on the
coast. The information obtained, as published in 1883, in the Supplement to
the Vancouver Island Pilot, is incorporated in the following description.

Winds. — The prevailing winds during the summer on the coast northward
of Vancouver Island are from the N.W., preceded during the earlier summer
months by south-westerly winds. During the winter months S.E. and S.W.
winds prevail. Gales from the S.E. prevail at all seasons, and are more fre-
quent and severe than those experienced on the coast of Vancouver Island. The
nights as a rule are calm during the summer months.

The barometer stands at about 30,10 during the prevalence of N.W. winds.
If during the summer the barometer full a tenth, especially if it has been regis-
tering higher than 30.20, a S.E. gale is probable. These gales usually begin
nt E.S.E., veering to the southward with a falling barometer, and the wind
remains at S.E. and S.S.E. ; with a rising barometer the wind shifts to the
S.W. with violent squalls, and then hauling more westerly blows itself out.
The climate of Queen Charlotte Islands and the islands off the coast of British
Columbia, is influenced by the warm body of water which washes their shoi'c,
the winter being less severe on the islands than within the inlets. Fogs are
prevalent, especially during the summer months. The rainfall is great.

The Inner Channels of the seaboard of British Columbia, now to be de-
scribed, afford smooth water, together with anchorages at suitable distances,
for vessels of moderate length- These channels, therefore, offer facilities to
steam vessels for avoiding the strong gales and thick weather so frequently
met with in Hecate Strait. They are also available for fore-and-aft schooners,
when navigating between Vancouver Island and Alaska. Unless directed to
the contrary, the mid-channel is recommended to be kept when navigating
these inner waters.

CAPE CAUTION (Ka-Klees-la), which forms the N.E. limit of Queen
Charlotte Sound, was so named by Vancouver on his second visit, from the
dangerous navigation in its vicinity. It makes a conspicuous cape, terminating
in rugged, rocky, low hummocks, which produce some dwarf pine, and other
small trees and shrubs, their tops being about 200 ft. above the sea. The shore
is white, and of granite formation, with a few rocks off it, close outside which
is deep water. The land N.E. of the cape rises gradually to Coast Nipple,
1,350 ft. high, 5 miles distant, 2 miles to the eastward of which lies Mount
Robinson, 2,100 ft. high.

SEA OTTER OBOVF, consisting of several dangerous rocks, islets, and
shoals, which cover a space of about 12 miles in extent North and South, and
10 miles East and West, lies 6 or 7 miles from the shore, fronting the coast
between Capes Caution and Calvert. Virgin and Pearl Rocks were discovered
and named by Mr. Hanna, in 1786.

Danger Shoal, which is reported to break in heavy weather, is the southern-
most of Sea Otter Group, and lies W. by S. i S. lOJ miles from Cape Caution ;

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SEA OTTER GROUP— EGG ISLAND.

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near the centre of this shoal there is a depth of 9 fathoms, but shoaler water
probably exists The South extremes of Egg and Table Islands in line, N.E. J N.,
leads clear to the S.E. of Danger Shoal, and all other dangers on the S.E. side
of the group.

Virffin Rocks, near the western limit of the group, are three white rocks,
the largest of which, 50 ft, high, lies N.W. by W. i W. 7 J miles from Danger
Shoal, and West 17 miles from Cape Caution. In rounding these rocks the
soundings should not be reduced to less than 30 fathoms, from 4 to 6 miles
distant. Watch Rock, 74 ft. high and black, lies N. | E. 7J miles from Virgin
Rocks, and is steep-to. Pearl Rocks, the northernraost of Sea Otter Group,
above and below water, extend li mile N.W. and S.E. ; the largest rock, 16
feet high, lies E. by N. 3 miles from Watch Rock, and the sea always breaks
on the S.E. rock. Devil Rock, the north-eastern danger, lies N.E. J E. IJ
mile from the largusD Pearl Rock, an^l S.W. by S. f S. nearly 3 miles from
Sorrow Islands. The sea seldom breaks on it.

Neiv Patch, on which the sea generally breaks, is nearly 2 miles in extent,
and lies S. by E. 4J miles from the largest Pearl Rock. Channel Reef, the
easternmost danger, has about 6 ft. over it at low water, with Table Island
bearing E. by N. J N. 4J miles, and Egg Island E. \ N. 3J miles. The sea
seldom breaks on it. Hanna Rock, the S.E. danger, lies about 2^ miles
South of Channel Reef; it is awash at high water, and from its centre Cape
Caution bears E. ^ S. 8 miles, Egg Island N.E. by E. 5^ miles, and Danger
Shoal S.W. by S. f S. 4J miles.

South Fassagfe, between Cape Caution and the S.E. limit of Sea Otter
Group, is here about 7 miles broad, with deep irregular soundings. False Egg
loland, its own breadth open West of Egg Island, N. i W., leads through nearly
in mid-channel.

In the northern part of Blunden Bay, on the North side of Cape Caution, is
Indian Cove, the Indian rendezvous on their canoe voyages, when passing be-
tween Queen Charlotte and Fitzhugh Sounds.

South Iron Rock, on which the sea seldom breaks, lies three-quarters of a
mile to the westward of Hoop Reef, and nearly If mile N.W. ^ W. from Neck
Point, the North point of Blunden Bay. Hoop Reef lies about one-third of a
mile from the shore. North Iron flock, which dries 7 ft., lies nearly in the
fairway of Alexandra Passage, N.W. by N. J N., three-quarters of a mile from
the South rock.

Egg Island, immediately fronting Smith Sound, 5 miles N.W. } N. from
Cape Caution, is the prominent landmark b( tween Goletas Channel and Fitz-
hugh Sound. It is 280 ft. high, covered with trees, and is remarkable for its
egg-like shape. Rocks extend about a cable from the S.W. side, and on the
East side is an islet, separated from it by a narrow gully. Efff/ Rocks lio
nearly three-quarters of a mile W.N.W. from North Iron Rock, and S.S.E.
about 2 cables from Egg Island; they extend about 2^ cables N.N.W. and

,,i- .-

Alfi

BUITIsn COLUMBIA.

S.S.E., the northernmost being 30 ft. high. Denny Pock, n snnken danger on
which the sen seldom breaks, nnd a source of anxiety in thick weather, lies a
quarter of u mile W.S.W. from the southernmost Egg Rock.

SMITH SOUND, 6 miles N.N.W. from Cape Caution, is about 8 miles long
N.E. ond S.W , with an average breadth of 3j miles; the entrance, between
Jones and Long Points, being 5J miles across in a N.N.W. direetion. In
almost every part the depths are over 40 fathoms, and there is generally a
heavy swell. The S.E. shore of the sound, for 4 or 6 miles from the entrance,
is fronted by several small islands and rocks. Boats will find good shelter
ir. a small cove near Jones Point, and also In Shelter Cove, 1 mile to the
South.

Alexandra Passage. — The entrance to the sound is protected by a plateau,
on which stand Egg and Table Islands, and Cluster Reefs. The entrance of
the South passage to Smith Sound is between Egg Rocks and North Iron
Rock, 6 cables apart. A general leading mark through it is the West extreme
of Surf Island in line with the islets near the South point of Shower Island,
N.E. by N. The dangers are steep-to, and the quickest use of the lead is
enjoined.

Beaver Passage, the northern channel, is entered between John Reef on
the S.W., and False Egg Island on the N.E., where it is 6 cables wide. The
course through is E. J S., with the East extreme of Search Islands just open of
the West end of Surf Islet. Good steerage and vigilant attention are required.

Table Island, the largest of the islands in the entrance to Smith Sound,
is about a mile long North and South, with the tops of the trees, 120 ft. above
the sea, nearly flat. A cluster of rocks, some covered at low water, extend
half a mile from its West side, ^nn Island is separated from the North end
of Table Island by a narrow channel, in which boats can find shelter.

Cluster Reefs, consisting of several rocky heads and shoal patches, extend
from Table Island in a northerly and north-westerly direction into the northern
entrance of Smith Sound. George Rock, on which the sea breaks at low
water, is the north-westernmost, and lies N. by W. 2 W. 1 mile fi-om Ann
Island ; Edward Reef dries 7 ft., and lies E.N.E. nearly three-quarters of a
mile from George Rock. Wood Rocks, awash at low water, E. by N. nearly
a quarter of a mile from Edward Reef, consist of three rocky heads, and are the
north-easternmost of Cluster Reefs. The West extreme of False Egg Island
in line with Kelp Head, N. J W., leads to the westward ; and Limit Point,
midway between Long and Shower Islands, E. by N. J N., leads to the north-
ward of Cluster Reefs.

White Rocks, 35 ft. high, and very conspicuous, lie in the West entrance
of Beaver Passage, at 3 J miles N. by W. J W. from Egg Island, and nearly 1
mile N.W. of Cluster Reefs. At 3 cables N.W. by N. i N. from White Eocks
lies John Reef, which dries 3 ft. at low water.

False Egg Island, resembling Egg Island in shape, but smaller, is 160 ft,

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SMITH SOUND— TAKU8II HAUBOUR.

617

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high, and He^ on the North side of Hcnvor Possngc. At about 3 cabloH
\V. i N. from it lies James Rock, the exact position of which is somewhat
doubtful ; the sea breaks on it at low water, and between it -md the island the
bottom is foul.

Long Point, the N.W. point of Smith Sound, lies E. by N. three-quarters
of a mile from False Egg Islam) ; Tie hltt lies close westward of it. Ada
Rock, awash at low water, lies S.E. by S. j^ 8. 2 cables from Tie Islet.

Browne hland, on the N.E. side of Heiiver Passage, lies S.E. i S. half a
mile from Long Point; it is 2.50 ft. high, and nearly half a mile long N.N.W.
and S.S.E. Surprise Patch, of 5 fathoms, lies N.E. by E. \ E. IJ mile from
its Sou ill extreme. Judd Rock, with less than 6 ft. water, lies N.E. by E. J E.
three-quarters of a mile from Surprise Patch.

Barrier Islands, at the head of Smith rioimd, consist of two large and several
small islands, about 5 miles in extent N.E. and S.W. Blakeney Passaye on
the North, and Browniny Passaye on the South side of these islands, and
leading to Smith Inlet, are each about 1 mile wide, and over 40 fathoms deep.

Smith Inlet {Quas-cillah), the continuation of Smith Sound, is said to
extend nearly '25 miles in an E.N.E. direction. It has not been surveyed.

TAKUiixf HARBOUR, on the South shore of Smith Sound, 6 miles within
the em.... t, and IJ mile East of Barrier Islands, is 2 miles long N.E. and
S.W., and 1 mile broad. This is the only anchorage which a ship can resort
to for shelter when crossing Queen Charlotte Sound. Vessels of large size can
lie secure here. The entrance is three-quarters of a mile wide, decreasing to
2i cables at Ship Passaye, which is formed by Gnarled Islands on the West,
and Fish Rocks, drying 3 ft. at low water, on the East side. Petrel Shoal,
with 15 ft. water, 1 cable S.E. by S. J S. from the easternmost Gnarled Island,
is the principal danger in rounding into Anchor Biyht, where anchorage will
be found in 10 or 11 fathoms, mud, midway betrtfeen Ship Bock and Steep
Point. There is an Indian village westward of Steep Point.

Fly Basin, at the head of Takush Harbour, is perfectly landlocked. The
entrance is contracted to a quarter of a cable by a shoal extending from the
East entrance point ; between this shoal and the West entrance point there is
a depth of 9 fathoms. If required, a small vessel could be taken into Fly
Basin.

It is high water at Takush Harbour, on full and change, at 1* 0" ; springs
rise 14 ft., neaps 11 ft.

Directions. — Berry Point, on the South side of Fly Basin, appearing mid-
wav between the entrance points of Fly Basin, S.E., will lead through Ship
Passage; and when Steep Point is well open of Gnarled Islands, bearing
W.S.W., a course may be steered for the anchorage in Anchor Bight, passing
midway between Anchor and Gnarled Islands, where the channel is only two-
thirds of a cable wide.

Aiveri Inlet entrance is about 3 miles to the northward of the North point

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BRITISH COLUMBIA.

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of S. lith Inlet, and appears less dangerous than the latter. It has, however,
on its southern side, many rocky islets and rocks, but none were discovered
benrath the water level. By keeping on the North side of the entrance, a fair
navigable passage is found, about half a mile wide, between the North shore
and the rocky islets that lie off its southern side. There was no bottom found
in the middle with 80 fathoms of line. From Rivers Inlet a channel diverges
northward of Penrose Island towards the South end of Calvert Island. It is
very narrow and intricate, leading through numerous rocks and islets to Point
Addenbiooke, in Fitzhugli Sound.

At the head of Rivers Inlet is the village of JFeekeeno, and two salmon
canneries and a saw-mill are established on the inlet.

CALVERT ISLAND forms part of the exterior coast northward of Rivers
Inlet, and within it is Fitzhugh Sound ; the former was discovered and named
by Mr. Duncan, the latter by Mr. Ilanna. Tlie eastern side of the ifilund forms
a stoop bold shore, rising abruptly from the sea to a great height.

FITZHUGH SOUND, the entrance to which lies 5 miles northvi'ard of Smith
Sound, is 39 miles long in a general N.N.W. and S.S.E. direction, having an
average breadth of 3 miles, with no known hidden dangers throughout. The
southern entrance lies between Craustown Point and Cape Calvert, 5 milea
W. i N. from it.

The coast from Long Point extends N.W. by N. 2J miles to Kcfp Point,
from which Cranstown Point boars N. by W., distant 1 mile. Canoe., Spur,
and Paddle Rocks, lie about a mile off Kelp Point, ocoupying a sjiace of 1^
mile N.X.W. and S.S.E., and more or less covered with growing kelp. Canoe
Eock, the centre and most prominent of these rocks, is bare, 25 ft. high, and
stands boldly out from the coast. Open Bay, on the N.E. side of Cranstown
Point, affords anchorage in 7 fathoms, but it is only used by local craft as a
temporary anchorage.

Cape Calvert is lae South extreme of Calvert Island, and at 2 miles North
of it lies Entry Cone, 1,200 ft. high, which forms a good mark from the south-
ward and westward. The cape is fronted by the Sorrow Islands, which are
»iteep-to, and covered with trees ; between them and the cape fair shelter may
be fo\md for boats in Grief Bay (Telakwas).

Directions. — In entering the sound from the southward, Addcnbrooke Island
open, and the East shore of the sound (beyond) shut in by Cape Calvert, bearing
N.W. by N. I N., will lead midway between Channel Reef and Egg Island,
and up to the entrance of Fitzhugh Sound. Allowance should be made for
tidal streams ; the flood sets to the eastward into Queen Charlotte and Smith
Sounds with a velocity at springs of nearly 2 knots. Vessels from the west-
ward should use North Passage, between Sea Otter Group and Calvert Island ;
this passage is about 3 miles wide, but Jledley Patch, of 9 fathoms (probably
less), lies in the West entrance, at 3 J miles N. J W. from Watch Hock
(pngc 515),

FITZIIUGH SOUND -SCHOONER RETREAT.

Schooner Retreat (Ka-pi-lis/i) is the name given to the anchorages among
a cluster of islands at the S.\V. end of Penrose Island, which here separates
I'it/hugh Sound from Rivers Inlet. It affords a secure stopping place, and
with care may be safely entered by steam vessels. During S.E. and S.W.
gales the gusts are furious, but with good ground tackle and care there need
be no danger in Schooner Retreat.

Safe Entrance, between Joachim and Ironside Islands, the largest of the
group, is three-quarters of a mile wide, and has from 8 to 17 fathoms water in
the middle. On its West side lie Grey hhnds, with a 2 to 3-fathoms shoal
extending IJ cable northward of them. Comber Rock covers at three-quarters
flood, and lies S. by \V. three-quarters of a cable from Surf Point, the S.W.
extreme of Ironside Island.

Friyale Bay, the southern anchorage in Schooner Retreat, is about half a
mile long N E. and S.W., and a quarter of a mile broad, with depths of 9 to
20 fathoms. The best anchorage will be found just within Safe I'Intrance, off
a clean sandy beach, in 13 fathoms water, with the N.E. extreme of Ironside
Island bearing W. ^ S., and the N.W. extreme of Sea Bluff, on the East side
of the entrance, S. \ W. It is necessary to moor. Maze Islands- are a cluster
of small islands on an extensive shoal projecting from the N.E. end of Ironside
Island, and leaving at its N.E. tnd a narrow channel with 5i to 9 fathoms
water, which leads from Frigate Ray to Secure Anchorage.

Secure Anchorage is about a quarter of a mile long N.E. and S.W., and 1 J-
cable broad, with depths of 9 to 11 fathoms. Ventcy P-issaye, leading to it
from the westward, between Ironside and Bird Islands, is contracted to about
30 yards in width by the shoals on either side, and is only suitable for small
coasting vessels.

It is high water in Schooner Retreat, on full and change, at 0' 30"' ; springs
rise 14 ft., neaps 11 ft.

Directions. — Vessels bound to Schooner Retreat should at all times use Safe
Entrance. If from the southward. Quoin Hill, 880 ft. high, at the West part
of I'enrose Island, should be brought in line with the hill, 200 it, high, on the
East end of Ironside Island, bearing N.N.E., which will lead to abreast
Karslako Point, the West extreme of Joachim Island, when Safe Entrance will
be open. After passing Karslake Point, steer very carefully towards Bluff
I'oint until Quoin Ilill is in line with Centre Island bearing N. ^ E., which
will lead through in mid-channel, and to the anchorage in Frigate Bay.

Safety Cove {Oat-so-alis) {Port Safety of Mr. Duncan?) is 7 miles north-
ward of Cape Calvert, on the West shore of Fitzhtigh Sound. It terminates
in a small beach, near which is a stream of excellent w-attr, difficult for boats
to reach. It is the first place that affords safe and convenient anchorage on
the western shore within Fitzhugh Sound. Vancouver found it a comfortable
retreat, in August, 1792.

Safety Cove is about a mile long W.S.W. and E.NE., and nearly half a mile

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520

BUITISII COLUMIJIA.

wide at its entrance, to the westward of which the shores of the cove extend
l)urallcl to euch other at a distunco of 2 cables apart ; the head is filled by a
shoul extending out .3 cables. The North entrance point has two atnall islets
lying off it, which are useful in identifying the entrance.

There is good anchorage in 13 fathoms, mud, in the middle of the cove,
abreast a waterfall on the North shore. It is high water, on full and change,
at l*" 0"" ; springs rise 14 ft., neaps 11 ft.

At 4 miles North of Safety C!ove Fit/.-hugh Sound is contracted to IJ mile
by Addr.nhrooke and adjacent islands, which lie on the I'last side. Juvukshua
I'ax.i(i(/p, 74 miles North of Sjifety Cove, leads to the sea, between Calvert and
Hecate Islands; it has been used by coasting vessels. Ilakai (J/iunncl, .^J
miles North of Kwaksliua, and Niduti I'ussaye, 4 miles farther on, are two other
unexplored channels leading to sea. (See pp. .024-5.)

Ooldstream Harbour, at the North end of Hecate Island, affords good
acnonnuddation for small vessels ; it is about 2 cables in extent, with depths
of 7 to 15 fathoms, sand and mud. The entrance is through an intricate
])assage little over half a cable wide, between the shore and an island which
forms the North side of the harbour. Kvcninij Rock, drying 3 ft. at low
water springs, lies near the middle of the passage, about 2 cables within the
entrance ; it would, therefore, be advisable to jjlace a boat near this rock
before entering or leaving the harbour. It is high water, on full and change,
at l*" O™ ; springs rise 15 ft., neaps 12 feet.

BURKE CHANNEL.— Fitzhugh Sound extends 24 miles from Safety C'ovo
in nearly a true North direction to Point Wtdker, where it sejjarales into two
arms, the northern one named Fisher Channel. Tl»e easternmost was named
by Vancouver after iMlmiind Ihirkc. Its S.E. point is Point lulniund, about
2 miles S.K. by I'l. from T'oint Walker. There are some islets off Point
Edminid.but the channel is fair. The sides nf the eanal are composed of com-
pact, Btui)cndous mountains, and nearly perpendicular rocky cliffs, i)roduciiig
])ine trees. I'rom its entrance it trends .05 miles to the north-eastward to
Hcla-kuia, at the head of North Uentinek Ann. Though not surveyed in
detail, it has frequently been traversed, and may be safely navigated by the
Admiralty chart.

Namu Harbour, 1 mile S.S.E. of Ednnmd Point, is three-quarters of a
mile long, K.N.E. and W.S.W., and the same in breadth, with depths of
20 to 2H fathoms ; in the entrance lies Kin-ash Island, 2U0 ft. high, small, and
covered with trees, with a deep cininnel on either side of it, the southern one
nearly half a mile wide, and the northern 3 cables wide.

Large vessels should anchor in 20 fallioms, in the centre of Namu Harbour,
with the North extreme of Kiwash Island bearing West, and the West ex-
trenn^ of Plover Island, the South point -if Un' harboni. R, by E. Small
vessels may anchor in Whirlwind Hay, on the East side o*" the harbour, in

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12 fatlionis, 1)ut during nutumn and winter it is not reconnnondcd, as tho
wiliiwaws blow with furious strength over the mountains, 3,000 ft. high.

Restoration Cove is about 12 miles within tho entrance of JUirkc Channel,
and has a fnic sandy beach. The breadth of the cove at its iiitrnnce, in a
North and South direction, is about 1^ mile, and its depth about three-
quarters of a mile. The soundings, though deep, arc regular, from (iO fathoms
at the entrance, to 5 and 10 fathoms close to the shore. Tho land on the
ojjpositc or western side of the arm is about 2 miles distant. 'I'lie tide i ises
and falls 14 ft. A vessel may anchor in 20 fathoms, 2 cables oil' tho beach.

From hence Murke (^'liannel extends to the N.K., its N.W. side being formed
by a large island, named by Vancouver A7//y Island. After continuing 7 miles
in an easterly direction from the N.IC. point of King I.sland, the canal separates
into two arms, to the N.K. and S.]']., nt Point Mcmies. These arms were
named by Vancouver licntinck Arms. The width of that to the S.l'l. in
genc^ral a little exceeds a mile, and tho country exactly resembles that con-
tiguous to the branches, which have been so repeatedly described. The
mountains around the head of the North Arm rise to over 5,000 ft. in heiglit.

Sir Alexander Mackenzie reached the Pacific after his long, arduous, and
perilous journey across tho continent at this point, a moutli after V^aiieouver's
party had left. He came to n village of twenty-six largo houses, where
Mr. Johnstone had come on .hino 1st, 17!)3. He coa.sted along King Island,
and learned that Macubah (as the natives termed Vancouver) had been there
with his large canoe, lie commenced his return July 22, 17'J;}.

This is as desolate, inhospitable u country us tho most melancholy creature
cimld be desirous of inhabiting.

Belakula. — New Abcnlccn, n recent establishment, is at tho head of tho
N.E. lientinek Arm, and is the site of a post of t\w Hudson's Hay Company,
'i'he old ehaits place " tho village of Ilascals " here — an expressive name. It
was afterwards called Koujoli's, Ihlhoitht, or Ilrlakttla. Tho 15elhoula, or
liella Coola Hiver, flows into the head of the arm in a W.S.W. direction, tho
land near its mouth being j)artially cultivated by the Indians. Much attention
has been directed to this place, as n point of departure for the uj)per course of
the Fraser Kiver, and a "trail" exists to Fort Alexandria below the mouth of
tho (iuesnelle.* Capt. Mayne gives an account of several expeditions which
have crossed the intermediate country (pages Tl,') — 151).

At Itelakula vessels anchor close to tho mud flat at the mouth of tho
river, on tlu> So\ith bide. In taking up a berth great care is recpiired, to guard
against getting too near the edge of the flat, which is (juitc steep-to, A largo

• A turriUo tngctly uccuircd on tliia roiid in May, 1301. Thu trunchoroua Iiidiuns do-
htrnyi'd nciirly tlio whole of a jiiirty wlio woro milking tlicir way to tlio Cariboo Gold l/'iuld«.
'I'hi' jimliculars aro (luoted in 31r, I'. Wliyiiij'cr'tf iuturcsling work, pp. 34, 35.
Aorlh I'lKi/ic, 3 X

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622

BRITISH COLUMBIA.

I ;:(

Tcsscl should moor in 45 to 50 fathoms. Small vessels may find shelter during
summer, on the North shore, under Custom House Point.

The N.E. point of King Island was named Point Edward, and around it
Labouohere Channel leads from Burke Channel to Dean Canal, which
penetrates many miles in a N.E. and North direction, terminating in low
marshy land.

Cascade Canal is to the N.W. of Point Edward. Its shores are bounded
by precipices more lofty than any hereabouts ; and from the summits of the
•mountains, particularly on the N.E. shore, arc some extremely grand and
tremendous cascades. The southern part of Dean Channel, forming the N.W.
side of King Island, runs S.W. to Fisher Channel, which separates the
southernmost of the Princess Royal Islands from the main land.

PRIN'CESS ROYAL ISLANDS form a portion of tliat immense archipelago
which here fronts the American continent. On its western side it is uneven,
rocky, and of moderate height. The eastern shore rises more abruptly, and is
bounded behind with lofty snowy raoiiuLains.

Fisher Channel. — Foif Rocks, rather on the I'last side of Fisher Channel and
3 miles North of Walker Point, consist of six rocks above water, the highest
25 ft. high, with a few shrubs on it; they may be passed on either side.

Port John. — At 8 miles northward of Fog Eocks is an indentation in King
Island, with Port John in its northern part, immediately under Remarkable
Cone, ;?,3()0 ft. high, and terminating in Evans Arm to the southward. Port
John, so named by Vancouver, affords anchorage in 20 fathoms, but is much
confined by Murk Rock nearly in th' middle, and by the flat extending off the
Btream at the head. There is also anchorage at the head of Evans Arm in
20 fathoms, which may be reached through the passage South of Boot Island.
There is a salmon-fishery on the South side of Evans Arm.

To the North of Port John is the entrance to Dean Canal, previously men-
tioned, which passes round the N.W. side of King Island toward Cascade
Canal. Fisher Canal continues its northern course for 4 miles above Port
John, its shores being comparatively of moderate height. At this point it
joins Johnson Channel which leads to liullovk Channel, the latter taking a
south-westerly course to Milbank Sound, and thus forming the North limit of
the southern Princess lloyal Islands. The shores of Johnson Channel are
stated to be low and rocky, with many detached rocks lying off them. The
southern part of Bullock Channel is stated to have many rocks and breakers iu
it, but all sufficiently conspicuous to be avoided in fair >veather. Several
inlets or arms run up to the northward from the canal leading from Fisher
Canal into Milbank Sound. They are very similar in character and need no
particular description.

LAMA PASSAGE is the main passage connecting Fisher Channel with
Seaforth Channel and Milbank Sound ; its eastern entrance, 6 miles North of
Fog IJocks, may be recognised by a conical mountain 1,000 ft. high, on the

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LAMA TASSAGE— KLICK-TSO-ATLl IIAUUOUll.

523

N.E. point of Hunter Island, and by Pointer Island, on the South side, where
it is nearly a mile wide. Thence the passage trends West 2 miles to abreast
Serpent Point on the South shore, the breadth being about half a mile ; it
then widens and trends W.S.W. 4 miles to abreast Twilight Point, the S.W.
point of Denny Island.

Camp Point, nt the S.W. extremity of Denny Island, shoidd not be rounded
nearer than half a mile, as the bottom is foul for a distance of 3 cables. The
North entrance to Plumper Channel, which is a mile wide, lies opposite
Twilight Point, from which Imma Passage turns to the north-west for 4 miles
to Grave Point, sovithward of which the passage is contracted to 2 cables.
Bella Bella hlanch, three-quarters of a mile North of Grave Point, are bare
and about 15 ft. high.

Cooper Inlet, on the South shore of Lama Passage, 5 miles from the eastern
entrance, is deep and contains several small crocks and rocks ; but in fine
weather anchorage may bo obtained in 11 fathoms water under Westminster
Point, its N.W. point, by bringing it to bear W.N.W. Jane Creek, in the
S.K. corner of Cooper Inlet, may be used by small vessels. Large vessels may
anchor in about 18 fathoms in the entrance, midway between Charles and
George Points. Beefs extend a cable north-westward of Charles Point, the
northern point.

McLanghliu Bay, on the West shore of Lama Passage, half a mile South
of Grave Point, is a good stopping-place; it is about 4 cables wide and IJ
cable deep, with 8 to 14 fathoms water. The anchorage is in 11 fathoms off
the centre of the beach about a cable from the shore. In this bay is the site
of an old Hudson Bay trading post, founded in 1837, which in 18()8 was again
used as such. This is the only Indian winter residence between Qucon
Charlotte Sound and Scaforth Channel. There are stated to be three villages
here, with a population of about 500.

The Indians state that a rock exists in Lama Passage, abreast McLaughlin
Bay, lying half a cable from the eastern shore.

B[lick-t80-atli Harbour, on the North side of Denny Island, and 1 J mile
East of Bella Bella Islands, is about a mile in extent, and affords excellent
shelter for vessels of any si/.c. Steamer Passage, the channel West of Har-
bour Island, otF the N.W.. point of the harbour, is 1 cable wide, and suitable
for small vessels ; large vcs.sels arc recommended to pass through Wbcchrk
Pass, between a .3-fathoms patch near the centre of the channel and the
S-fathoms shoal extending three-quarters of a cable off Noble Point, the N.l'l.
entrance point of the harbour. The West extreme of Cypress Island in lino
with the East extreme of Meadow Island, N.W. by N. J N., leads through
Wheelock Pass in 11 to 19 fathoms water, and when Harbour Island bears
West a vessel may anchor in 1 2 fathoms. Secure anchorage may also be ob-
tained in 15 fathoms, with Harbour Island bearing S.E. by S. J S., distant
3 cables.

524

I i!

ii i'

BRITISH COLUMBIA.

11^ i

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Main Passage, leading from Lama Pussngc to Senfoith Channel, between
the N.E. extreme of Campbell Island and Narrow Island, is three-quarters of
a mile long N.N.E. and S.S.W., and from 2 to 2 J cables wide. Narrow Island,
about three-quarters of a mile North of Bella Bella Islands, is three-quarters
of a mile long E.N.E. and W.S.W., with a ledge of rocks, awnsh at high
water, at a cable from its South side. Some islets and a reef lie between it
and Deer Island, to the eastward.

Ounboat Passage, between Denny and Cunningham Islrmds, is narrow and
intricate, containing many rocks and kelp patches. From its western entrance
it trends about E. by N. 6 miles, thence North 2 miles to its eastern entrance,
at the junction of Fisher and Dean Channels. This passage should not be
attempted unless in small handy steam-vessels, with good local knowledge.

Outer Coast, — We now proceed to describe the outer coasts of the islands
which fonn Fitzhugh Sound and the inner channels to the northward, com-
mencing at Cape Calvert (p. 518).

CALVERT ISLAND is but little broken on its southern and western shores,
which are comparatively low, and thickly wooded. Sorrow Island, at the
I)itch of Cape Calvert, is conspicuous, and an excellent thick-weather mark,
from its cliffy formation, and by being covered with stunted trees. Landing,
in fine weather and off-shore winds, may be effected in Grief Bay (p. 518),
and in other bights westward to Herbert Point, the S.W. extreme of the island,
about 8 miles distant.

Mark Nipple, au isolated hill, 350 ft. high, a mile E.S.E. of Herbert Point,
is a very useful landmark. Llakeney Islet lies half a mile off the S.W. ex-
treme of Calvert Island, and at 1^^ mile W. by N. of it is the western edge of
FitzRoy Reef, the most outlying danger off the western shore of Calvert
Island ; it uncovers at low water, and extends about 5 cables East and West.
Carritigton Reefs, a cluster of sunken rocks, extend 5 cables from the shore at
If mile northward of Blakenoy Island. The coast northward of Carrington
Reefs is foul to the distance of 5 cables.

Kwalishua Channel, unexamined, lies between Calvert and Hecate Islands.
At its western entrance it is 5 cables wide, but Kuakshua Rock lies nearly in
mid-channel, and over it the sea only breaks at intervals.

Hecate Island forms the southern shore of Hakai Channel ; reefs extend
8 cables off its West side. Near the S.W. end is Leading Peak, a sharp
summit, IJ mile northward of which is Sugar-loaf Hill, 500 ft. high.

HAKAI CHANNEL, between Hecate and Nalau Islands, is about 7 miles
long in a general N.E. i N. and S.W. ^ S. direction, and from 1 to 1 J mile
wide. Numerous islets and rocks lie on each side of the entrance.

Tliis channel is not recommended to a stranger. If using it, steer midway
between North and South Pointers Rocks; thence a mid-channel course,
N.E. i N., towards a conspicuous mountain on the eastern shore of Fitzhugh

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HAKAI CHANNEL— WELCOME HARBOUR.

525

agh

Sound, will lend Uirough into that sound. The tidal streams attain the velocity
of 4 knots an hour at springs.

South Pointers, a small cluster of black rocks, 2 ft. above high water, and
Burroundcd by sunken dangers to the distance of 2 cables, lie on the South
side, li mile vvcstward of the Starfish Group. Starfish Islands, wooded, and
from 70 to 150 ft. high, lie on the South shore, and extend about IJ mile
N.E. and S.W. The group consists of three princip.il islands, much broken
into long, rocky, narrow creeks, with shores of white cliffs. Choked Passuye,
southward of the Starfish Group, is obstructed by rocks awash, reefs, and
sand-banks. Slarjish Ledge, over which the sea usually breaks, lies 2 cables
from the N.W. shoi'c of Long Island, the northernmost Starfish Island.

North Pointers are a cluster of bare rocks, of light colour, lying on the
North side of the entrance ; the outer rock lies N.N.W. 2 J miles from South
Pointer Rocks. Breaker Group, also on the North side, is about a mile in
extent, the larger islands being wooded, and about 250 ft. high. Breaker
Ledge uncovers at half ebb, and lies 5 cables S.E. of the contre island.

East Hock, on the South shore, o£F the mouth of Welcome Harbour, is
awash at low water, and lies half a mile off shore, and 5 cables N. by E.
from Kelp Point, the western entrance point of that harbour. Port Beef,
awash at high water, lies E. J^ S. 2 cables from East Rock. Leading Peak, at
the head of Welcome Harbour, seen in line with Bluff Point, on the North
side of the harbour, bearing S.S.E., will lead westward, and South Pointers
Rocks S.S.W. will lend northward of these rocks.

Welcome Harbour, on the South shore of Hakai Channel, is 3 cables wide
at its entrance, and extends IJ mile to S.S.E., affording good shelter to small
vessels. On its North shore is a sandy beach, M'herc a vessel might be beached.

Fairtvay Rock, with 21 ft. over it, lies nearly in mid-channel at the mouth
of Welcome Harbour. Leading Peak seen just northward of Bluff Point,
bearing S.S.E., will lead eastward of it. Ilarhour Ledge, 1 cable from the
N.W. shore of Harbour Island, is small and dries 4 ft. Codjish Bock, with
12 ft. over it, lies half a cable off the South shore of Harbour Island. If'ol/
Bock, awash at high water, lies close to the East shore, at 2 cables northward
of Sandspit Point, which has a sandspit extending 1 cable off it.

To enter the harbour, having passed not less than 5 cables northward of
Starfish Group, the leading mark for clearing East Rock should be brought ou
and steered for. Especial care will be necessary if the flood stream be
making. Having cleared East Rock, pass East or West of Fairway Rock, and
anchor in 7 to 9 fathoms off Sandspit Point, midway between Leading Island
and Wolf Rock, with the former bearing N.W. distant 1 cable.

Exposed Bay, on the South shore of Ilakni Channel, abreast Breaker Group,
has a dangerous cluster of sunken rocks near its centre.

Nalau Passage, between the Nalau Group and Hunter Islanc' is useless for
navigation. On the North side of its entrance is White Cliff Island, 4 miles

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626

BIUTISII COLUMBIA.

W. by N. i N. from tlie outer North Pointer Rock ; it is of small extent,
bare, and 250 ft. in height, its shores consisting of high white clifis.

QUEEN SOUND, between Goose Islands and //un/(;r 7s/aH(/, is about 12
miles long N. by E. and S. by W., and from 4 to 8 miles wide. At its northern
end is a labyrinth of islands and islets, rendering it intricate and dangerous.
Spider Island, 250 ft. high, at 3 miles northward of White Cliff Island, is 3J
miles long N.N.W. and S.S.E., and li mile broad, and connected with Hunter
Island by a ledge of rocks awash ; its N.W. extreme terminates in high, bold,
white cliffs. At 2^ miles northward of Spider Island is Superstition Point, off
which a ledge of high rocks and sunken dangers extends 1| mile to the S.W.
Near it are strong tide races.

Purple Bluff, 5 miles N.W. of Spider Island, is the S.W. extreme of a
group of islands, islets, and rocks, at the mouth of Plumper Cliannel, and
terminates in high, bold, basaltic cliffs, of a purple tint. The group extends
over a space of nearly 5 miles.

Ooose Islands, 5 miles westward of Spider Island, consist of four principal
islands, connected at low water ; the largest and northernmost is 250 ft. high,
wooded, and its N.E. extreme terminates in conspicuous high white cliffs. Ou
the eastern side of the West island is Yellocki, an Indian fishing village.
Goslimj Rocks, awash and sunken, extend nearly 4 miles S.S.E. of the South
island. West Hock, awash, lies 1 mile S.W. of the western island. Peveril
Bock, awash, lies li^ mile N.N.E. from the northcn island.

Plumper Channel leads between Hunter and Campbell Islands, from Queen
Sound into Lama Passage. Its southern end is oLstructed by numerous islets
and rocks. Hecate Channel leads between Campbell Island and the Baidswell
Group from Queen Sound into Seaforth Channel. This channel is also ob-
structed at its southern end by numerous islets and rocks.

Broken Oroup ( Qual-a-gute), 2 miles northward of Goose Islands, extends
2 miles N.N.W. and S.S.E. , and consists of several islets and rocks, connected
by ledges. Fingal Island, small and wooded, lies 1 mile W. by N. from the
northern island, and ledges extend 1 mile southward of it. Middle Rock,
6 ft. high, lies 2^ miles W. by S. from the South island. North Breaker, a
dangerous sunken rock, lies N.N.W. 1 mile from Middle Rock. Limit Island,
small and wooded, with foul ground extending 5 cables S.W. of it, lies 2 miles
N.W. J W. of Fingal Island, and about a mile off Bardswell Islands. At a
mile westward of Limit Island are liempstone Rocks, awash at high water,
1 mile apart E. by S. and W. by N. The western rock lies \\ mile S.E. of
Cape Swain.

Bardswell Islands lie on the eastern side of Milbank Sound, and are low
and wooded, extending over a space 7 miles square, with several boat channels
among them.

MILBANK SOUND, discovered and named by Mr. Duncan, is an opening
between the Princess Eoyal Islands, in lat. 52° 13'. Its S.E. jwint is Cape

MILBANK SOUND-

Stcain, so named after the third lieutenant of the Discovert/, Vancouvcr'a
vessel ; the cape is low and woodud. Its N.W. point is Point Day, 9 miles
N.W. by W. i W. from Cape Swain, and a group of wooded islets, with
numerous rocks, extend 2 miles S.S.W. from it. The southern and eastern
sides of the sound, being entirely covered with trees and with low shores, is
very pleasant in appearance, but the northern sides are a rude, confused mass
of low, rugged cliffs, bounded by innumerable rocky islets and rocks. Behind
Jorkins Point, at the head, the land of Princess Eoyal Island rises in moun-
tains 1,500 to 2,000 ft. high. The sound extends 17 miles in a northerly
direction to Jorkins Point, at the entrance of Finlayson Channel, with very
deep water.

Price Island, forming the western shore of Milbank Sound, has a con-
spicuous ridge of hills along its eastern shore. Prom Day Point its eastern
shore trends N. by E. for 4 miles to Aldrich Point, half a mile northward of
which is Boat Cove, affording shelter to boats. The coast North of Boat Cove
is almost straight and unbroken for 7 miles to N.W. by N. J N. to the entrance
of Schooner Passaye, a narrow intricate channel to Laredo Sound.

Directions. — Approaching Milbank Sound from the S.W., Helmet Peak on
Lake Island, 1,032 ft. high, is conspicuous. Stripe Mountain, on the North
side of Dowager Island, is 2,020 ft. high, with a remarkable lau:'slip down its
S.W. side. Helmet Peak in line with White Hock, N.E. by N. i N., will
lead up nearly in mid-channel. When within 2^ miles of White Rock, st.'er
E. by N. J N. towards Seaforth Channel, or N. by W. towards Finlayson
Channel.

A channel 8 miles broad, with depths of over 100 fathoms, mud, extends
south-westward of Milbank Sound. North-westward of this channel the
depths decrease to 50 fathoms, and less, at the mouth of Laredo Sound, with a
bottom of fine sand. South-eastward the depths are 7G and 80 fathoms, over
sand, mud, and rock at intervals. In thick weather, therefore, when ap-
proaching the sound from the south-westward, with average precautions, a
vessel's position should be indicated by the deep-sea lead.

Tides. — The flood stream approaches from the southward, and divides near
the middle of the sound; one portion running towards Finlayson Channel,
another towards Mathicson Channel, and another towards Seaforth Channel.
The reverse takes place on the ebb. The rate is variable, but it seldom ex-
ceeds 1 knot an hour in Milbank Sound; increased, however, within the
channels to 2 and 3 knots an hour.

OflF Cape Swain are the two dangerous Discovery Rocks, 8 cables apart
N. by E. and S. by W. The sea seldom breaks over the southern one, which
lies a mile W. f S. from the cape. About 5 miles within the entrance lie White
Pocks (Ka-mas-ik), half a mile apart N. by E. and S. by W. ; the northern
one is 6 ft. high, and the southern one 50 ft. high. At 2^ cables E. ^ N. of

febv':!'

^.li^j

«38

BlUTISn COLUMBIA.

H ,

i i =ii

the latter is Sound Rock, with 12 ft. water on it, and another rock lies half a
mile to the S.W.

St. John Harbonr {Cheek- Squmiz) lies on the S.E. shore of Milbank Sound,
nearly midway between Capo Swain and Sound Point. Though confined, and
with a narrow entrance, it affords good anchorage for small vessels. It it
protected at its entrance by Raye Reef of rocks awash, and sunken rocks,
which form a natural breakwater, and eastward of this reef there is a clear
channel, 2 cables wide, with depths of 10 to 30 fathoms : ledorcs extend a cable
from the eastern shore. At 5 cables within the entraace lie two small islands.
Wood Island, the eastern and smaller one, being round, wooded, and con-
spicuous. The ehanuel eastward of these islands is barely a cable wide, and
leads into Anchor Bay, which is the usual anchorage for small vessels. Went-
ward of the islands the channel is wider and leads into Deep Bay,

In approaching St. John Harbour from the northward. Cape Swain should
be kept well open of the conspicuous quoin-shaped point 2 miles northward of
the cape, bearing S. \ W., until Wood Island is distinctly seen, and North
point bears East. Bring Wood Island to bear S.E. by S. | S., and steer for
it, passing half a cable eastward of it, and anchor in 10 to 11 fathoms, sand,
in Anchor Bay, with the eastern side of Wood Island, distant 3 cables, in lino
with the North extreme of Ilage llcef, N.W. i W. Bage Beef being nearly
covered throughout at high water, the entrance is then not easily distin-
guished ; it is better to enter at half-tide or low water.

Northward of Surf Rock, and between Ivory and Mary Islands, is the en-
trance to Blair Inlet ; the inlet l>as numerous islands and rocks in it, and at
its head is an Indian fishing station.

SEAFOBTH CHANNEL, connecting Milbank Sound with Lama Passage
(p. 522), has its western entrance between White Bocks and the rocks off
Sound Point. Thence it extends 14 miles to E. by N., with an average
breadth of 1 mile. The land on both sides is much broken by islands with
channels between leading North and South. Mouse Rock, over which the sea
generally breaks, lies 6 cables W. i N. of Surf Point, on the North side of
Seaforth Channel entrance. Between Sound Point and Gale Creek, 2J miles
eastward, a bank extends a short distance off the shore, on which tem-
porary anchorage may be fowid, with careful use of the lead, the bank being
steep-to.

Eynampt Harbour, on the South shore of Seaforth Channel, and about
2 miles westward from its junction with Lama Passage, may be recognised by
Grassy Islet, 20 ft. high, and Regatta Reefs, lying in the middle of
the channel IJ mile eastward of the harbour, also by White Stone, a con-
spicuous bare rock, 12 ft. high, lying 2 cables West of Kynumpt. The harbour
is 4 cables long N.N.W. and S.S.E., and averaging 2 cables in breadth with
6 to 16 fathoms, mud ; the best anchorage is in 7 to 9 fathoms, with tho
North extreme of Berry Point bearing E.N.E., and the West extreme of Low

'f -I-

MATIIIESON CHANNEL— PORT BLAKENEY.

520

Island N.N.E. A rock, with 10 fc. water on it, is reported to lie 2 cables
S.W. of Low Island. It is hij^li water, on full and change, at 0'' 30" ; springs
rise 14 ft., neaps 11 feet.

Dull Patch, with less than G ft. water on it, lies half a milo N.N.E. of tho
entrance to Kynumpt Harbour, and a shoal of 3 fathoms extends li cable
westward of it. To avoid Dall Patch, it is recommended to keep tho southern
shore on board, wliicli in this vicinity may bo approached to within l.J cable.

MATHIESON CHANNEL is an extensive arm leading northward fii-m
Milbank Sound, eastward of Lady and Uowagor Islands. At 2^ miles within
the entrance it is obstructed by islands and rocks.

Port Blakeney, on the South side of Mathicson Channel, about 3 miles
within the entrance, is easy of access, and may be approached from tho south-
westward with the swell astern. At its entrance, between Promise and liiiiu
Points, the port is 2J cables wide, thence it takes a southerly direction for
about a milo, terminating in the mouth of a small creek insulating Mary
Island. Wood and water may be obtained in Port Blakeney, and cod and
olJ'cr usli may bo caught on Cod Reefs, and shell fish in the sandy bays.

Cod Jirr/t arc a cluster of rocks at tho mouth of Port Blakeney, tho
northern rock, with 24 ft. water over it, lying N.N.E. 3 cables from Promiso
Point, with a clear channel northward of it 1 J cable wide. Oke Reefs, about
2 cables northward of Cod lleefs, extend 2 cables from the South side of Oko
Island. The outer detached rock is 3 ft. above high water.

Directions. — Approaching Port Blakeney from the southward, Ilelmet Peak
should be kept just open of the eastern point of Lady Island, N. by E. ^ E.,
and when within 5 cables of the latter a N.E. \ N. course should be steered
towards Oko Island. Tho clearing mark for leading between Oke and Cod
Reefs should bo brought on astern, namely, White Rocks in line with tho
North end of Passage Island, W. J N., and when Mark and Oke Islands arc
seen in line bearing N.W. by N. a vessel will be N.E. of Cod Reefs, and may
then haul into the harbour, with the South extreme of William Island astern,
bearing North, and anchor in 10 to 12 fathoms, sandy bottom, about 5 cables
within the port, with Ilclraot Peak seen just open of Promise Point, N. by
AV. \ W., and three-quarters of a cable S. by W. of a small sandy patch of
4 fathoms.

It is high water in Port Blakeney, on full and change, at noon ; springs riso
13 ft., neaps 8 feet.

Off Cross Point, the S.W. point of Lady Island, and the northern entrance
point of Mathieson Channel, a ledge extends 8 cables, and partially uncovers.
At IJ mile N.W. by W. from its extremity is Boulder Head, the South
extremity of an island lying close off Lady Island. Boulder Ledi/e, with
li to fathoms over it, extends 9 cables south-eastward of the head.

Vancouver Bock, imcovering 12 ft. at low water, is steep-to on all sides,
Horth Pacific, 3 Y

W-

rii*.

:' I

630

BRITISH COLUMBIA.

u >

and lies N.W. by W. ^ W. distant 1} mile from Kouhlcr Head, and
8.\V. by S. J S. 1 railo from Cliff Islond. Cross Point in lino with Uouldcr
Head, K. I S., leads 6 cables southward of it.

Mots Passage (Too-witl), leads northward of Lady Island into Mathicson
Channel, but at 3 miles within the entrance, and 1 mile from its jtinotion
with Muthieson Channel, it is barely a cable wide, and beyond that position it
should not bo attempted by a stranger. CliJ" hlunJ, on tho North side of tho
entrance to Moss Passage, is small, 225 ft. high, and its S.E. extreme termi-
nates in high, conspicuous white cliffs. Bird Hock, 3 ft. high, with .uul
ground extending 2 cables eastward of it, lies E. by S. 8 cables from tho South
extreme of Cliff Island.

Morris Bay, on tho South side of Moss Passage, about 1 railo within tho
entrance, is 2^ cables wide and extends 3 cables to tho S.E. Westerly win'h
send in a swell, but tho bay possesses the great advantage of permitting tho
state of tho weather in Milbank Sound being ascertained when at anchor.
Good water may be obtained here, and clams and cnckles are in abundance.
Kit/i/ I'atch, on tho eastern side of Morris Hay, lies a cable from the eastern
shore, with dcj)th3 of 4 and 5 fathoms, sand.

Approaching Morris ]5ay, keep midway between lilrd llock and Salnl Point,
and if Vancouver llock bo uncovered, it should bo kept astern bearing
S.W. by W., westerly. The South extreme of Cliff Island open northw -d of
Hird llock, W. J N., astern, will lead to tho entrance. Anchorage will bo
found in 12 to 14 fathoms, sand, a cable from the western shore, with Salal
Point shut in by tho western entrance point, W. by S. j| S., and Detached
Island, on the North side of Moss Passage, bearing N.N.W.

At two-thirds of a mile westward of Cliff Island are a group of islets, of
which tho largest is named North Island, Ledges extend G cables N. by
W. J W. from the island, and uncover at low water. Alexandra Passage lies
eastward of Vancouver Rock and the North Island Group, and small steam-
vessels, possessing local knowledge, make use of it. The passage is barely 6
cables wide in its narrowest part.

Low Point, the S.E. entrance point of Finlayson Channel, is low and
wooded; at 2i miles W. by N. from it is the centre of Beaver Bank, about a
mile in extent, on which a least depth of 27 fathoms was found, where a
vessel might anchor in case of fog. Sandstone Reef is a conspicuous narrow
ridge a mile long, part reaching 4 ft. above high water, tho eastern end bein"
about 3J miles W. by N. of Low Point, and about one-third of a mile off
shore.

FINLAYSON CHANNEL is the main channel, from 1 to 2 miles wide,
leading northward from Milbank Sound. From between Jorkins and Low
Points it extends 3 miles northward; thence in a general N.W. by JN. J N.
direction for 18 miles, and then N. ^ E. 6 miles to the head of Cm it* Bay.

FINLAYSON CIIANNEI^CARTKIl HAY.

Tlic land on both sides is from 1,000 to 3,000 ft. high, and both shores arc
tliickly wooded.

Oscar Fassagfe, 1 milo Tridc, lends eastward out of Finlnynon ChnnncI,
between Dowager nnd Hoderick Talanda, to the ehnnncl leading northward
from Mathieson Channel to Mussel Inlet. On its South side is Stripe Moun-
tain, 2,020 ft. high. Bulley Bay, un the South shore, Sjj^ miles within its
western entrance, affords temporary onehorogu in 15 fathoms, oeensionally
used by coasting vessels.

Sisters are two small wooded islets, about 90 ft. high, lying 2 cables from
shore, 3J miles northward of Oscar Passage. They arc 4 cables apart, and are
joined by ledges uncovering nt low water. Nowish or Otter Cove lies li cables
northward of the Sisters, between Indian and Susnn Islands. The entrance is
2 cables wide, and the cove thence extends K.S.K. for 5 cables, having on its
North shore, about 4 cables within the cove, a small bay, which affords an-
chorage for small vessels in 10 to 11 fathoms, sand. Jackson Pnssayc, north-
ward of Nowish Cove, was unexplored. Mary Cove, 5 J miles northward of the
Sisters, is barely a cable wide at its entrance, and extends in a northerly direc*
tion for 5 cables, terminating in a sandy beaci;.

Cone Island, on the western shore of Fmlayson Channel, is 3J miles long
N.W. i N. and S.E. J S., and about 5 cables broad ; its summit, about 1 mile
from the South extreme, is conical, 1,280 ft. high. Jane Island, 5 cables
northward of Cone Island, is about a mile long N.W. and S.E., and is low and
wooded.

Sarah Island, G cables northward of Jane Island, is l!) miles long N.N.W.
nnd S.S.E., and from 1 to ^^ miles broad. This island reaches its greatest
elevation of 3,000 ft. at 4 miles from its South extreme. On the S.K. side, at
7 miles from the South extreme, an unexplored bay faces south-eastward, and
nt 3i miles from this extreme are two high waterfalls.

Watson Bay, 9 miles northward of Sisters Islets, was unexplored. Wallace
Biyht, 2 miles northward of Watson Bay, and Goat Cove, I mile northward of
Wallace Light, both have very deep water.

Sheep Passage is nearly 1 mile wide, and leads eastward from the head of
Fuilayson Channel to Mussel Inlet, which is stated to have the same general
characteristics as the other inlets.

CARTER BAY is an excellent stopping-place at the head of Finlayson
Channel, and should be recognised by the high cliffj on its western shore. It
is 4 cables wide at its entrance, nnd about 6 cables deep in a northerly direc-
tion, the head terminating in a large stream, fronted by an extensive sand-
flat. 'ITiere is anchorage in 14 to 1.5 fathoms, mud bottom, IJ cable from tho
eastern shore, and 2 cables from the sand-flat, with the entrance points
bearing S.K. J S. and S.W. by S. J S. respectively. Water can be obtained
from tho stream, and here trout abounds. The shell-fish should not be eaten.

It is high water in Carter Bay, on full and change, at noon ; sinings rise

«.,-■ 1

■,''

'. \l

saaESGSsssspissffisasaEmn

632

BRITIRTI COLUMBIA.

i}iMy::

. I

i i

!; 1

lliil

13 ft. 'J'lic observation spot, on the western shore, is in lat. 52° 49' 41" N.,
long. 1'28^ '21' ;i!' W.

Carter Hiiy and Mussel Inlet derive their names from one of Vancouver's
party having died from the effects of poisonous niusisels collected in Poison
Con; hit. 52= 55', hm^r. 128'^ 1' W. The whole party who jjartook of them
were .teized with a numbness about their faces and extiemities, Avhich soon
extended to their whole bodies, accompanied with sickness and giddiness.
Tliis may servo as a caution here, though generally the shell-fisli is wholesome.

Hie Kish Narrows, about 5J miles long N.W. and S.E., and from 2i cables
to 1 mile wide, lead from Tinlayson Channel into Graham IJeach. JlviriU
Hoc/;, with 10 ft. water over it, lies at the western entrance, nearly in mid-
channel. The North shore of the channel should be kept on board to
avoid it.

Klemtoo Passage, between Cone and Swindle Islands, !< about 3.} miles long
N.W. and y.E,, and in some parts barely a cable wide. Tliougli narrow, this
passage is safe, provided the mid-cliannel course be kept, and affords an-
chorage almost throughout. The tides are comparatively weak witliin it. It
is high water, on full and change, at noon ; springs rise 11! ft., ncajjs 8 feet.

South I'(iss(n/e, between Cone and Jane Islands, is 5 cables wide ; when
pas.sing through it the Soutli shore should be kept on board, passing '2 cables
nortlnvard of Cone Island, to avoid Kelp I'atvh, a cable southward of Jane
Islniid.

North Passage, between Jane and Sarah Islands, is 5 cables wide, and is to
l)c preferred to South Passage. Keep nearer the Nortii shore, and pass
2 cables South of Sarah Island, to avoid Datujer Patch, of 1 to 3 fathoms, a
cable north-westward of Jane Island.

TOLMIE CHANNEL, between I'rineess Koyal and Sarah Islands, is about
15 miles long N.N.W. and S.S.I']., and from a half to \\ mile wide. On the
South shore, 2^ miles northward of Sarah Island, :\n extensive arm takes a
southerly direction, and is reported to communicate with Laredo Sound. Care
is necessary, when approaching from the northward, not to mistake this unex-
plored arm for the reach leading to Klemtoo I'assagc.

Tolmio Channel, though not so wide as Finlayson Channel, is preferable
in some respects, especially if compelled to be under way at night. The
mid-chnnnel course should be steered throughoiit, except when navigating
the northern part of the channel, when tlie South shore should be ncarcd to
avoid Tohmc Pock, lying half a cable off the sliorc of Sarah Islatul.

Tides. — The ilood stream, from the southward, is stronger in Finlayson than
inTolmie Channel. Tlie ebb, however, is stronger inTolinie Channel, and runs
for IJ hour after the ebb has ceased in I'inlayson Chanuel. In the narrow
parts, both flood and ebb attain a velocity of .'J knots an hour at sjjrings.

GEAHAM REACH, northward of Tolmio Channel and Hie Kish Narrows,
is about 17 miles long N.W. by N. and S.E. by S,, and from a half to 1 mile

GKAHAM llEACir— rilASKU KEACII,

p; t^o

broad. Crmi Inlet lying on the North shore, 2 miles northward of Sarah
Island, was not explored. Flat Point, on the We.st shore, ;) miles vioitli-west-
ward of Green Inlet, is wooded, Hat, and eomparatively low, and near it lies a
large boulder rock.

Swauson Bay lies on the North shore, 7 miles from Sarah Island. There
is anchorage in 19 fathoms, .sandy bottom, in the nortlwri: part (if vhis 1 ay,
with the conspicuous waterfall on the fcjouth siiore of the i' ,icli sluit in with
the North entrance j)oint.

Khutie Inlet, G miles N.W. of Swanson Hay, and Aaltanhash Inlet, 2 miles
N.W. of Khutze, were both miexplored, and are reported by Indians to afR-rd
anchorage. Vancouver found .seareely any inhabitants hereabout. 'I'lie tides
meet abreast Aaltaidiash Inlet, lied CliJ/roint, the turning point into l'"raser
Keach, lies on the South shore.

ERASER REACH, the channel north-westward of Graham Reach, is 1'2A
miles long W. by N. and K. by S., and a half to l.J mile wide. In its southern
entrance lies JFar/c Island, l.J mile long East and West, the ehannel on
either side being deep. Abreast Wark Island is a bay on the South shore, at
the head of which is a fine trout stream.

Klchanc is an unexamined arm on the North sliorc, abreast Wark Island ;
the Indians report that anchorage may be olitained at the head. At laudx/ij)
Point, 4 miles W.N.W. of Wark Islaiul, is a remarkable landslip. Kinyruiubc
Point, at the North end of I'rinccss Royal Island, and the turning point into
McKay Reach, lies on the South shore, and is long, sharp, and conspicuous.

Oj)posite Kingeonibe Point, on ih • e.istern shore, is lis/icniian Care, where
Vancouver anchored. About 2^ mile., northward is a small inlet, where a hot
spring was discovered.

In sailing among the rocky precipices which compose the shores of the
channels hitherto described, it is not always ta'c to nvi'v^ too free with tlieni
in sailing by; for they are frequently found to jut. out a few yards at ot a Utile
below low-v nter mark ; and if a vessel should gv-juad <jn any of those pro-
jecting points about high water, she would, ou the fulling tide:, if heeling from
the shore, be in a very dangerous situation.

To the N.N.W. of Eisherman Cove, lysula Channel continues for about
7 miles between the main land and dribbell Island. Tho altvrcs aie like the
rest described, partly composed of lofty steej) mountains risini"; nearly per]ien-
dicularly from the sea, and covered from the water side to their summits witii
pines and forest trees. Iloxer liruch trends to the W.N.W. from I'rsuia
Channel, and joins Vcrncy (Jhannel, which divides dribbell from llawkeshury
Island. liishnps I'ove, on the North sidi' of lto.\er Reach, lias good anclmrage
in its N.W. part, in l.'j to 2(1 fathoms. Eroui l!o.\er Reach Drnislntinn ( hannel
trends first to the eastward, and then northward. Point StuniJ'orth, placed by
Vancoviver in lat. M^ 01', long, (corrected) I'-lb \T W., is tho South tnliunco
point of (Jardner Channel.

-utj.ag-w

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««»ai

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534

ERITISn COLUMBIA.

»!"■ I

^ii

OABDNEB CHANNEL runs 4i; miles in an irregular course to the east-
ward, Kitlujj Hirer running into its licad. Its upjier part passes ihrough a
country that is almost an entirely barren waste, nearly destitute of wood and
verdure, presenting to the eye one rude mass of almost naked rocks, rising into
lofty mountains, whose towering summits, seeming to oveiliang their bases,
give them a tremendous appearance. The whole is covered with perpetual
ice and snow, and many waterfall* descend in every direction in the summer.

Douglas Channel lit'*! between the West coast of Hawkcsbury Island and
the main land, and oxtcuii* about 43 miles from the North end of Promise
Island lo ita head. About 17 miles from its head it i« joined by Devastation
Channel.

The Admiralty survey did not extend to the waters of Douglas and Gardner
Channels. The navigation i?, however, considered to be free from obstruction.
Her Majesty's ships have at different times visited these localities, and the
chai*ts, as corrected from observations resulting therefrom, as also from in-
formation furnished h\ ^he Government of Canada, may be taien, under
ordinary conditions of \v 'ather, to be a sufficient guide, in the hands of a careful
navigator.

In Douglas Channel, i.t Kit-kia-tah, G miles North of Promise Island, smaM
vessels may anchor in 5 fathoms, half a mile within the inlet. In Kit-i-roat
Arm, in Clio Bay, near the licad, anchorage M'ill be found in 17 fathoms.
This place is used by Her Majesty's ships when communicating with the
Kit-i-mat Indians.

In Gardner Channel, Etchardson Point is said to afford anchorage on each
side of it, in from 18 to 5 fathoms. Also at Kcmano Bay, anchorage of an
indifferent character rnny be obtained.

MoKAY REACH, leading westw.-.rtl of Fraser Reach into Wright Sound
ImkI Whale Channel, is about 8 uiilcs long W.S.W. and K.N.E., and from
1 to 2 miles wide. Tlic land on the North shore is higli and bold, with
mountains 3,000 ft. high. The land on the South shore is not so higli ; and
near the summits of the mountains are some c.Ktensive slatc-colourcd patches.

WRIGHT SOUND is a large sheet of wa'.or, 9 miles long East and West,
and 2i miles wide at its narrowest part. Grcnville Channel extends from its
M-estcrn part ; Whale Channel and Lewis Passage lead southward; and Douglas
Channel and Verney Passage lead northward. Gil Island, on the South side
of the sound, cTilminates in a well defined snow-clad peak 3,000 ft. higli.

Holmes Bay {Quel-ak-sea-hx), on the eastern shore of the sound, at the
entrance of Whale Channel, in 8 cables wide, and recccies in an easterly direc-
tion for about 4 c&bles, terminating in a .sand-flat. A small islet lies off the
South entrance point. There is anchorage in 14 fathoms, sand, with Gil
Mountain in line with the Jiotrth entrance point, S.W. by W It is high water,
on full and change, nt )'' "^ rise 16 ft., neaps 10 feet.

The North point of (iii j >uu u ..^ opposite /'oint Cummimj, the S.W. extreme

■' IM

ill'

WlilGIlT SOUND— GREXVILLE CHANNEL.

530

of Gribbell Island. Thcro is anchorage in a bay on the N.E. part of tho
i.slan(l, about a mile eastward of Turtle Island, its northern extremity. Here
Vancouver anchored in 40 fathoms, stones, shells, and sandy bottom, and called
it Fisherman Cove. There is also said to bo anchorage to the S.^V. of the
North point of Gil Island. Gil Island, ^^ ith the islands to the S.W., and tho
channels dividing them, arc described hereafter (p. 543).

PROMISE ISLAND, at the South cud of Douglas Channel, is 3J miles long
N.N.W. and S.S.E., with an extreme broadth of 2 miles. It is covered wiih
pine and cedar, and culminates in two doiue-shaped peaks, 1,G80 and 1,710 ft.
high respectis'cly. Cape Fareivell, its S.E. cvtreme, terminates in a high, bold
cliff, and a ledge, uncovered at low water, cxteuiis 2 cables S.E. of it. A con-
spicuous white cliff lies midway between Capo Farewell and Thom Point.
Dawson Point, vho North extreme, is low and wooded, and a ledge extends 2
cables northward of it, uncovered at half ebb.

Coghian Anchorage, about a mile westward of Cape Farewell, is 3 cables
wide at its entrance between Camp and Thom Points, and extends 2 miles to
the N.W., widening within to 4 cables. Ledges extend a short distance off
the p. '-.. I'ng points. Ilnrbour Rock, a dangerous rock of snuiU extent,
imcovcro a [i. at low water, and lies nearly in mid-channel near the head of
the harbour, and is nearly stecp-to. Otter Shoal o;ttends 100 yards from tho
western shore, at the head of the anchorage, with depths of 3 fathoms and less
upon it.

Anchorage in C to 7 fathoms, sand, will be found near the head of Coghian
Anchorage, or, for a long vessel, or those not wishing to go beyond Harbour
Rock, a berth in 24 fathoms, in mid-channel, at 5 cables S.E. of Observation
Point, may bo found. It is high water at the anchorage, on full and change,
at0''30"; springs rise 18 ft., neaps 14 ft. Stewart Xarrows, the channel
leading northward of Promise Island into Douglas Channel, is narrow and uot
recommended.

Tides. — The flood stream enters Campania Sound from the southward, and
the main body passes up Squally Channel. TLe J-sscr body, passing into
Whale Channel, unites at 1 mile nortiiward of Turtle Point with the main
body from Lewis Passage. Thence it sets directly across Wright Sound, and
impinging against Camp Point, causes very strong eddies there, and is then
deflected towards Grcnville Channel. Portions of the flood stream by Whalo
Channel turn into McKay lieach, J^ouglas Channel, and Verney Passage. On
the ebb, tho reverse takes place, the main body of water from Wright Sound,
&c., obtaining an exit by Whale ChanneL Both flood and ebb streams attain
the velocity of 3 knots an hour, at spriings, in the contracted portions of the
channels.

GEENVILLE CHANNEL, leading north-westward from Wright Soimd, is
the usual channel taken by steam-vcasels proceeding to the northern waters of
British Columbia. A vessel should keep as nearly as possible in mid-chanocl.

'", '. ^--

;, '-v'^if-

B>MMMMI%«W»MM9II9MnhM

■kV«lnilMm.4A«.kW . IMW

636

IJllITIsn C0LUMI5IA.

nhi

r<^:.i :

!• ifir

At it8 S.K. end it is 8 cables wide, and thence it extends 4 miles W, byN. JN.
to abreast Davenport Point, with an average width of 1 mile. I'rom this
point it trends W.N.W. for 11 miles, and narrows to 3 cables as Lowe Inlet is
approached, seldom exceeding; 4 cables in width until north-westward of
Evening Point, Klewnuggit. From off Lowe Inlet, the channel takcf a
N.W. by W. J W. direction for 7 miles, to abreast Evening Point; thence it
gradually widens out from 1 to 13 miles, and extends W. by N. J N. for 23
miles, to Ogden Channel. For 2 miles within it Mr. Whidbey (.July, Vi'Jo)
found the sea abounding in sea-otters, whiah sported about the bouts.

The hmd on both sides is high, reaching the elevaiiou of 3, GOO ft. on tho
North, and from 1,000 to 2,000 ft. on the South shore, and, as a rule, densely
wooded with piro and cedar. The mountains rise almost perpendicularly
nbovc water, and cause tho southern portion of this narrow channel to appear
even narrower than it is. Dut the general edeet of so many mountains rising
one behind the other renders Grcnville Channel one of the most bflautiful laud-
Bcapcs on this coast, and is equalled oidy by Klemtoo Parir.rgo

At springs the flood stream in the narrow portions of Gronville Channel
attains the velocity of 2 knots, and tho ebb 4 laiots au hour. Abreast Lowe
Inlet, strong eddies will be felt on the ebb.

Lowe Inlet {Kumowadah), about 14 miles from Wright Sound, is about
2J cables wide at its entrance between James and Hepburn Points, From
mid-channel, between the entrance points, the inlet extends .') cables N. by E.,
and thence N.N.E. for cables, to tho mouth of Nellie Jlami, which is nearly
circular in shape, with 15 to 17 fathoms water, over mud, and is 5 cables in
diameter, but its entrance is barely a cable wide. A large stream flows into
the N.E. corner of the basin, with a waterfall close to its mouth. Water
may be procured here, and trout caught in the stream.

Oil tho South shore of Circnviilc Channel, at 2 miles S.E. of Lowe Inlet, is
a remarkable bare hill, 400 ft. high, lam hid lies close to the North slioro
at 2 cables vt^estward of the inlet. On the South side of the inlet, Anchor
Cone, a remarkable mountain, rises to tiic height of 2,010 ft. Iliijh-ivater
Bocks, 1 cable from the westera shore, at 4 cables within Lowe lulet, cover at
high water.

Anchorage for vessels of moderate length will be found, in mid-channel, at
2 cables within the inlet, iii 8 and 10 fathoms, sand and shells. For a long
vessel, more convenient anchorage will bo found higher up the harboui-, in,
niiil-chanuel, in 20 fathoms, mud, with Anchor Cone Mountain bearing
S.E. by E It is high water, on full aud change, at 0'' 30'" ; springs rise
17 ft., neaps U> feet.

Morning Reefs extend N.W. by W. nearly 1 mile from Evening Poutt ;
the South bhorc of Orcnville Cliannel must be kept on board when ijassiug
them.

JQewnuggit Inlet lies miles W.N.W. of Lowe Inlet, and 1 mile west-

■B

GRENVILLE CIIANNEL—OGDEN CHANNEL.

637

ward of Evening Point. The entrance lies between Camp Point and Leading
Island, and is 4 cables wide. Thence the inlet takes an easterly direction for
4 cables, and there divides ; the longer arm, Exposed Arm, extends in a S.E.
direction for 3 miles. The shorter arm extends N.W. for \\ mile, passing
northward of Leading Island, and is 2i cables wide. Anchorage may be ob-
tained at Shij) Anchorage, in the N.W. arm, in 15 to 20 fathoms, mud, in
mill-channel. Exposed Arm is very deep. It is higli water, on •'ull and
change, at U'' 30™j springs rise 17 ft. The tidal streams meet ubrcast Evening
I'oint.

Stuart Anchorage, on the Siuth shore of Grei.ville Channel, 17 miles
W. by N. i N. of Klewnuggit lulc*^, lies 6 cables westward of a long, low,
wooded projection, which serves to Jistinguish it. Slaj Hock, uncovering
13 ft. at low water, lies 4 cables W. by N. J N. from this point, and has foul
ground extending from it 4 cables in a W.N.W. direction ; a small patch,
\meovered at low water, lies 1 cable South of the rock. Anchorage will be
found in 10 to 15 fathoms, rock, W. ^ S. 2 cables from Stag liock, bat in
proceeding for this anchorage, especially at high water, care is necessary.

False Stuart anchorage lies on the South sliore, 3 miles E.S.E. of Stuart
Anchorage. On its N.W. side is a high, bold projection, which sliould servo
to distinguish it from Stuart Anchorage, 'i'hc water is deep, close to the
shore.

Kxn-geal Inlet, on the North shore, 5 miles westward of Evening Point, and
Kum-eu-lon Inlet, abreast of False Stuart anchorage, were both unexjilored.

Gibson Islands are a group of islands, situated in the junction of Grenville
Channel with Ogden Channel. The western and largest island is 160 ft. high,
about 1 mile in extent, and wooded. On its East side is Bloxliam Inland, of
small extent. Watson Rock, uncovering 11 ft., lies 2 cables oS the South
shore of Gibson Island. A rock lies half a mile W. by S. from the iSouth end
of Bloxham Island, and Bluxham Shoal extends fi cables north-eastward from
the same end, and passes northward of Gibson Islands at that distance, with
depths of 1 to 3 fathoms over it. Gunboat Ilurhour, between Gibson and
IJloxham Islands, affords temporary anclioragc to small vessels, in 1 to 10
fathoms, a cable within the cntraaoo. The conuneutal shore, eastward of
Gibson Islands, is lined with numerous rocks and islets.

Bedford Island, of small extent, lies N.N.W\ 5 cables from Gibson Island,
and a spit extends 3 cables S.W. of it. The channel between the islands is
not reconmicnded, having less than 4 fathoms in it. Marrack Island lies
5 cables N.N.W. of Bedford Island, and Marrack Muck, which uncoverti, lies
nearly in mid-channel between them.

Kennedy Island, about a mile northward of Marrack Island, is 5 J miles
long N.W. and S.]'!, with an average breadth of i miles. It is wooded, and
rises near the middle in two conspicuous peaks, 2,7*1* and 2,470 ft. high
Aorth Pacijic. 3 z

^'%

538

BRITISH COLUMBIA.

' il ,' 1 '■'

respectively. Cardcna Bay, on the S.E. side, is fronted by a mud bank, wliioh
extends over 5 cables from the shore, on which anchorage may bo found in
7 to 8 fathoms, '6 cables from the shore.

Port Fleming. — Between Marrack, Bedford, and Gibson Islands and the
mainland, there is a good harbour of even soundings from 3 to 7 fathoms, with
muddy bottom and very little current, as the tides meet here and form still
water, lliis basin 1 have named Port Fleming. Capt. Madden, an old
trader and pilot, stated that he alw.iys found this harbour good, well-sheltered
from wind, and free from currents and sea, and considered it the best between
Tort Simpson and Vancouver Island for large or small ships.*

Letois Island, 1 mile S.W. of Kennedy Island, is low and wooded. In
Laivson Ilarhour, on its N.W. side, small vessels may find anchorage in

4 fathoms, about 1 cable within the entrance.

Arthnr Passage, between Kennedy and Lewis Islands is about 5 miles long,
N.W. and S.E., and about 1 mile wide. Herbert Reefs, uncovered at low
water, lie on the West side of the passage, about 5 cables from the N.E.
extreme of Lewis Island. This dangerous cluster consists of two rocks,

5 cables apart N.W. and S.E.

FAUott and Elizabeth Islands, north-westward of Lewis Island, arc both
low and wooded. Bampjield Islets lie 2 cables o(F the North shore of Eliza-
beth Island. liloxam Passage, between Lewis and Elliott Islands, is fi'.rmt
2 cables wide, with a depth of 21 fathoms in mid-channel. At Chalmers
Anchorage, on the N.W. side of Elliott Island, anchorage may be found iu
13 to 14 fathoms, 2 cables from the N.W. extreme of the island.

Chismore Passage, between Porchcr Island and Lewis, Elliott, and Eliza-
beth Islands, is about 4 miles long W.N.W. and E.S.E., and from 2 to 5
cables wide. Elixabeth Rock, which uncovers, lies 1 cable off the South shore
of Elizabeth Island, at 1 mile within the western entrance of the passage.
There is anchorage in mid-channel, in 7 to 10 fathoms, 2 cables off the South
shore of Elliott Island, with Genn Islands seen midway between Elliott and
Elizabeth Islands, bearing N.W. by N.

White Cliff Island, nt 6 cables northward of Elliott Island, is about half a
mile long North and South, its South extreme terminating in high, white
cliffi. A lodge extends 2 cables southward of the island, and there is a depth
of 30 fathoms, mud and shells, at 1 cable southward of this ledge. Cecil Patch,
with 4 fathoms on it, lies West 1 mile from the South extreme of White C'lilT
Island. Genn Islands are two email wooded islands, about 120 ft. high, lying
close together ; the eastern one lies N.W. by W. I W., 2 miles from White
Cliff Island. Bribery Island, small and wooded, lies W. by S , 8 cables from

• From a Ueport by Captiiin J. (.'. Hrundigo, pnblishel in a Report in rcferonco to
the Cunadiau Pacific Ruilwiiy, by Sandford FIemiuff,E8(|., Ottawa, 18S0 ; cmtaiiiiiig much
inturesting iuformation on the harbours and northom coast of Driiish C'.'lambia-

I
t

MALACCA PASSAGE— SKEKNA lUVKU.

839

the western Genu Island. Lawyer Islands nrc nLoiit 1 mile in extent,
N.W. by W. and S.E. by E. ; the eastern island lies W. by S., 5 cables from
bribery Island. Cruice Rock, covering at tbrce-quarter.'j flood, lica W. i N.,
3 cables from the western Lawyer Island.

Malacca Passage, between Porcher Island and the Gcnn and Lawyer
Groups, is about G milct long W. by N. and E. by S., and about 1 J mile wide.
The summit d:" Kennedy Island, having bare patches on the N.W. side, in
line with the S juth extreme of White Cliff Island, E. by S., will lead through.

SKEENA HIVEE, the largest river on the coast of British Columbia
northward of Eraser Iliver, rises in Lake 15abine, about 200 miles beyond Port
Essington. For about 20 miles above Port Essington the river is available for
vessels drawing 4 ft. ; beyond that distance it is only navigable for cr.noes.
The head of navigation, for vessels drawing over 6 ft., may bo said to ter-
minate G miles beyond Port Essington, and 21 miles from the moui'i of the
river. Steamers from Nanaimo ascend the river, it being one of the routes to
the Omineca gold mines.

It is a prolific salmon stream, and there arc three canneries on its banks-
one at Aberdeen, another at Inverness Slough, and a third at I'ort Essington,
near its mouth, where there is a small village of traders, fishermen, and
Indians. 'I'he river is navigable for light-draught steamers as far as Mumford
Landing, CO miles inland, and 200 miles further for canoes. There arc two
missionary stations on the river, and along its course are many sjiots favourable
for settlements. — 77/e West Shore, September, 1884.

At G miles below Port I'lssington, the river divides into three channels,
called North, Middle, and Teli'graj)h Pas-sagcs. The salt water, as far as P'.rt
Essington, is stated to be of a light-blue colour, similar to that near Eraser
Iliver. In winter large masses of ice drift about with the tide, and the river
is stated to freeze over at 6 miles below Port Essington.

Coal is found on the banks of the Skina or Skcena Eiver. It was visited by
Mr. Downie in August, 1859, and may prove to be an important attraction at
some future period.* Gold is found in small quantities; also plumbago. Potatoes
are good and plentiful.

The entrance of Skcena Iliver is an extensive sound, surrounded by a
moderately elevated country, particularly on the N.W. ; but to the North and
East the view is bounded by lofty barren mountains, covered with perpetual

• Mr. Downie snys : At Kitsngatiilii (on tho Skina Hivor) wo entered on a most exten-
sive colli country, the eeams being in sight i\nil cut through by the river, and running up
Iho banks on both ni.luj, varying in thicknosa from 3 to 35 ft. Tho veins are larger on tho
E»Bt side, and aro coven d with sandstone ; on tho West sidn quartz lints the scams, which
aro smaller. Tlio veins dip into tho bank for a mile nlong tho river, and could easily bo
worked by tunnels on tho fr.ce.orby tinlung eliaflo from behind on the flats, as they run in
goft cartli. I hnvo scon no conl liko this in .■ill my travels in British Columbia and Van-
couver Island. (Sco Cupt. Mayne, Appendix, p. VA.)

III

!!•;

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540

BRITISH COLUMniA.

8now. The entrance is narrowed by a shoal against Poinl Lamlert, forming
a rounding spit, of 3 to C ft. water. The tide rushes in furiously.

Telegraph Fasiage, the southern and principal channel of Skecna River, is
about 8 miles long N.W. by N. and S.E. by S., with an aveiage width of
1 J mile. The western side is rendered dangerous by sand flats, some of which
dry, extending from the eastern side of Kennedy Island, but the eastern side
has depths of 4 J to 17 fathoms.

Unless under the guidance of a pilot, as the channels of the Skecna arc
subject to periodical changes, it is recommended, before attempting them, to
buoy the channel.

Port Essington lies cm the South shore, about 5 miles from De Horsey
Island, and abreast it anchorage will be found in mid-channel, in 4 to 6
fathoms, mud. Here there is a village and salmon canneries, liaspherry
Islands, eastward of Port Essington, lie close to the eastern shore, and were
so named by Vancouver from the quantity of excellent rasjiberries he found
here.

A heavy cross-sea is caused by strong winds from N.W. to S.E., and vessels
riding at anchor in the current here during a galo of wind, would be sure to
foul and trip their anchors. — Copt. J. C. Brttndige.

De Horsey Island lies about 1 mile northward of Kennedy Island, and
between them is Middle Passage, which should not be attempted by a stranger.
It is about a mile wide between the islands, but mostly occupied by shoals,
which contract it to a very narrow channel close to the southern side. To the
N.W. of this channel Chatham Sound is interspersed in most directions with
small islands, rocks, and shoals.

North Passage lies between Tsimpsean Peninsula and Smith and De Horsey
Islands. Mount McGrath, on Smith Island, is conspicuous, being 2,200 ft.
high. The navigable channel is barely a cable wide in some parts. An-
chorage will be found at 1 mile within the passage, off Woodcock Landing on
the North shore, nearly in mid-channel, in 8 to 10 fathoms.

Tides. — The night tides rise higher than those of the day ; the latter rising
24 ft. at springs. The flood stream at the entrance attains the velocity of 4,
and the ebb 6 knots an hour at springs.

Having given a description of the inner channels northward of Milbank
Sound (p. 526), we now proceed to describe the outer islands and the channels
among them. Game abounds on all the off-lying islands, and notwithstanding
the presence of wolves, deer are in great numbers. Water is plentiful at all
seasons, and trout may be procured in the streams.

IiABEDO SOUND, between Price and Aristazable Islands, is nearly 20
miles long N.N.W. and S.S.E., and from S to 14 miles wide. The eastern
shore is low, wooded, and much broken into bays and creeks. The West coast
of Price Island is fringed by several islets, rocks awash, and sunken rocks, to

; .IT

•

LAllEDO SOUND- LAEEDO CHANNEL.

541

the distance of 2 miles. A group of ialnnds and islets extend southward from
Aristazablc Island.

Nab Rock, a dangerous sunken rock, over which the sea only breaks at
long intervals, lies S.]-]. by E. distant 3J miles from the summit of Entrance
Island, off the South end of Aristazable Island. The ground is foul for

1 mile S.E. of the rock, and several ledges uncover between it and Entrance
Island.

Kititstu mil, at the West entrance of Schooner Passage (p. 527), is of
triangular shape, with a well-defined summit 7 GO ft. high. Over the North
shore of the sound rise three remarkable mountains, Nvedle Peaks and Cone
Mountain, 2,400 to 2,800 ft. in height.

Don Point, on the western shore, 4 miles N. by E. from the summit of
Entrance Island, is a peninsula 150 ft. high. Schooner Point, the turning
point into Laredo Channel, lies N. by W., 7 miles from Don Point, the coast
being bold and rocky. A ledge, which uncovers, extends 3 cables northward
of Schooner Point. Steep Point, high and bold, forms the N.E. entrance point
of Laredo Channel, and lies N. by E., 2 miles from Schooner Point.

Directions. — Small sailing coasting vessels, to avoid the light winds nnd
calms which frequently prevail in the inner channels, make use of Laredo
Sound and the channels leading northward from it, as here the wind seldom
fails them. In clear weather, if Outer Island, off the South end of Price
Island, be not brought to bear southward of East, a vessel will pass South of
Nab Eock. Kititstu Hill, bearing N. J E., will lead eastward, and Schooner
Point bearing N.N.W. leads northward of Nab Rock.

LAREDO CHANNEL, between Princess Koyal and Aristazablc Islands, is
about 20 miles long N.W. by W. and S.E. by E., and from 2 to 5 miles wide.
At 6 miles within the entrance it is obstructed by a group of islands and
islets, contracting the ravigable channel, on their northern side, to barely
7 cables wide.

Beaver Ledge, uncovering at low water, lies 5 cables from the South shore,
at li mile westward of Schooner Point. South Channel Islands arc 150 ft.
high, and about a mile in extent East and West. North Channel Islands are
of small extent ; the eastern island lies N.W. by W., 1^ mile from the
western island of the South Channel Group. Channel Pock, a dangerous
sunken rock, lies nearly in mid-channel, S.E. by E. 6 cables from the eastern
islet of the South Channel Group.

Bluflf Point, on the southern shore, 2 miles W.N.W. of the North Channel
Islands, is high and bold, with a hill 400 ft. high rising immediatclj- over it.
Seal Pocks, covered at high water, lie 5 cables from the South shore, and

2 miles W.N.W. from Bluff Point. Sandspit Point, 5^ miles N.W. by W.
from Bluff Point, is white and conspicuous, with a ridge of bare hills, 700 to
DOO ft. high, over it. A shoal extends 5 cables northward of Sandspit Point.

Devils Point, the western entrance point of Laredo Channel, lies W.N.W.

542

BRITISH COLUMBIA.

! i

'■' ■ 't
■ :1

; 11

4 miles from Sandspit Point; over it is n bnrc liill, with n conspicuo\i9 knob
on its summit. Spray Point, tlic N.E. cntrnncc of the channel, is bold, and
lies K.N.K,, 5 miles from Devils Point.

Tides. — The flood stream from Laredo Sound, and the ebb from the north-
ward, both increase in strength as the Channel I.sland Group is approached,
attaining the velocity of 6 knots an hour at springs in Snrye Narrows, the
channel North of that group. In the wider portions both streams attain
the velocity of 3 knots an hour at springs. Midway between Devils and
Spray Points, the flood stream by Laredo Channel is met by the stream passing
round the N.W. end of Aristazable Island, causing at springs dangerous tidal
roces in that locality.

ARISTAZABLE ISLAND is about 26 miles long N.W. and S.E,, and
from 1 to 10 miles broad, and wooded. At about 8 miles from its S.K.
extreme is a conspicuous saddle-shaped hill, 010 ft. high. Near the northern
end of the island, a bare ridge of hills, with four conspicuous peaks, rises to
the height of 950 ft. Over the S.W. extreme arc some bare hills 350 ft. high,
and at the extreme western end is a remarkable knob on the summit of a bare
hill. The southern shores arc broken into bays and creeks, obstructed by islets
and sunken rocks ; and there are several off-lying groups of islands.

Entrance Island, IJ mile southward of the South extreme of Aristazable
Island, is the outer island of a wooded group extending olF the point. White
Rock, 100 ft. high, bare and conspicuous, lies N.W. by W., 3 miles from
Entrance Island, and is the outer rock of a group extending 2 miles from the
shore. Sentinel Island, 250 ft. high, small, wooded, and conspicuous, lies
\^ mile from the shore, at 4 miles W. ^ N. from White Rock. Several rocks,
awash and sunken, lie northward of Sentinel Island, fringing the South shore
of Aristazable Island. The two most outlying rocks, which are from 1 to 2 ft.
above high water, lie respectively W. by N. 1 mile, and W.N.W. 4J miles
from Sentinel Island.

Gander Islands {Cha-che-Iucas) are a group of islands, islets, and rocks,
extending 10 miles|N.N.W. and S.S.E., and 4 miles wide, at about 6 miles
from the South shore of Aristazable Island. The larger islands of the group
are wooded, the tops of the trees being from 70 to 150 ft. above high water.
North Gander Island, the northernmost and largest, is about 2 miles long
N.N.W. and S.S.E., and half a mile broad. South-east Gander Islands,
100 ft. high, are two small wooded islands, 3 miles S.E. by E. from South
Gander Island. Goose Ledge, which uncovers, lies 3 miles S. by W. from
S.E. Gander Islands, and 3 miles S.E. i S. from South Gander Island.
Sparrowhaxvk Breakers were reported by H.M.S. Sparrojvhauk, 1809, to lie
respectively 4 and &^ miles S. by E. from the S.E. Gander Islands.

Tide Rip Islands consist of two groups lying N.N.W. and S.S.I'i. 2 miles
apart, the southern group lying 2 miles N. W. of the Gander Group. 'Ihcy
are 7 miles in extent^ N.N.W. and S.S.E., are wooded, and about 200 ft. high.

CAMPANIA SOUND-OIL ISLAND.

£43

The northern nnJ hirgost uland teriniuates, at its N.W. extreme, in con-
spicuous white clili's. At spring!) the tidal streams attain a rate of 4 knotH an
hour among these islands.

The Qandor and Tide liip groups and their vicinity, not having been
thoroughly examined, the channels between them should not bo attempted by
a stranger.

Campania Sound, between Princess Koyal Island and the South end of
Campania Islands, is 5 miles long N.N.E. and S.S.W., and 3 miles wide. On
the eastern shore, a conspicuous ridge of rounded hills rises to the height of

000 ft,, and ledges extend as far as .'J cables from the shore. At 3 cables from
the S.E. extreme of ('umpania Island lies Eclipse Island, small and wooded,
100 ft. high. For 1 mile northward of Eclipse Island, ledges uncover to the
distance of 5 cables off shore. South Surf Islarids, at the S.E. entrance of
the sound, consist of three wooded islands 250 ft. high, with several small,
rocky islets. North Surf Islands, 250 ft. high, three-quarters of a mile
W. by N. ^ N. from South Surf Islands, consist of three wooded islands,

1 mile in extent N.N.AV. and S.S.E.

Squally Channel, between Gil and Campania Islands, is 10 miles long
E.S.E. and W.N.W., and from 2J to 4.i miles wide. Violent squalls will
often be experienced here, descending from the high land of Campania Island,
when calms or light winds and smooth water w'ill be found in Whale Channel.

Gil Island, named Ysla dc Gil by Seiior Caamano, in 1792, forms the
North side of Squally Channel, and is 15 miles long N.W. by N. and S.E. by S.
by 6 miles broad. Mount Gil, 3,000 ft. high, lies near the N.E. end, and its
summit is clad with snow on the North side. A ridge of mountains, 1,500 to
2,000 ft. high, extends in a southerly direction from Mount Gil, curving
gradually to the south-eastward. The S.E. extreme of Gil Island is wooded,
flat, and low.

Channel Reef, uncovering at low water, extends 5 cables from Ledge Point,
the South extreme of Gil Island, and fringes the shore at the same distance for
IJ mile to north-westward. Windy Islets are three in number, the outer one
lying 5 cables from the shore, at 2 miles westward of Ledge Point. Windy
Rock, uncovered at low water, lies 5 cables E.S.E. from the outer islet.
Jilavh Rock, 2 cables from the "West extreme of Gil Island, covers at high
water, and is nearly steep-to.

Lewis Passage, between Gil and Fin Islands, takes a northerly direction
for 4 miles, and thence trends to N.W. for 4 miles, into Wright Sound,
with an average width of 1 \ mile.

Fin Island, 2 miles westward of Gil Island, is 4 miles long North and
South. Plover Point, its North extreme, has a large bay close southward of
it, with several islets lying in it, and drying tlaoughout at low water. Four
bare rocky islets fringe the North shore. Fin Rock, awash at high water, lies

2 cables from the South extreme of Fin Island.

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TEST TARGET (MT-S)

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Photographic

Sciences
Corporation

23 WEST MAIN STREiT

WEBSTER, N.Y. 14S80

(716) 872-4503

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544

BRITISH COLUMBIA.

CriJge Paaage, between Fin and Farrant Islondo, is 3 miles long E.N.E.
and W.S.W., ond 1 mile wide.

Farrant Island, tx the S.E. entrance of Orenrille Channel, is 9 miles long
W.N.W. and E.S.E., and from 4 to 6 miles broad, reaching an elevation of
1,700 ft. on its South side. Block Head, the eastern extreme, terminates in a
high white cliff. Yolk Point, t!ie N.E. extreme, lies N.W. 4 miles from Block
Head and is smooth, bare, and rocky. Union Vaisai/e (Matliksimtas), between
Farrant and Pitt Islands, was not explored.

Whale Channel, between Princess Royal and Oil Islands, is 12 miles long
N.W. by N. i N. and S.E. by S. \ S., and from 2 to 3 miles wide. Leading
Point lies on the eastern shore, 5 miles southward of Holmes Bay (p. 534), and
over it is a conspicuous hill of triangular shape, 700 ft. high. River Light,
between Holmes Bay and Leading Point, has a large river at its head.

Maple Point, on the western shore, abreast of Holmes Bay, is comparatively
low, with maple trees growing on it. At 1 mile South of it is a sandy bay,
with a conspicuous sandy beach at its head. Shrub Point, 5 miles southward
of Maple Poiut, is comparatively low. Camp Islet lies 2 cables off shore, at
9 miles southward of Maple Point. It joins the shore at low water, and South
of it is a bay, 1 mile wide at its mouth, but occupied by a ledge of rocks,

Barnard Cove lies eastward of Trouble Island, at the South entrance of
Whale Channel, and affords shelter to boats and small craft, in 20 fathoms,
mud, 2 cables from the eastern shore.

Passage Island, at the junction of Whale Channel and Campania Sound, is
2 miles long North and South, the tops of the trees being about 250 ft. above
high water. Off its S.E. side, a group of islets and rocks extends 5 cables
south-eastward. The passages East and West of it are deep, and 6 cables wide.

Estevan Sound, between Estevan and Campania Islands, is about 15 miles
long W.N.W. and E.S.E., and from 2^ to 5 miles wide. At its S.E. ontranco
are several islets and rocks, nearly in mid-channel ; to a stranger, therefore,
Esteran Sound cannot be recommended. If compelled to xise it pass three-
quarters of a mile northward of South Watcher Islet.

Campania Island is nearly 15 miles long W.N.W. and E.S.E., and from
1 to 4 miles broad. It bus a conspicuous ridge of mountains, which oulmi-
nates in two bare dome-shaped summits, 2,000 ft. high, furnishing an excellent
IfTudmark. When seen from eastward a remarkable peak, nearly in the centre,
appears to rise considerably above the rest. The western end of the island is
comparatively low and wooded. Marble Rock, 5 cables N.W. of the N.W.
extreme, is 6 ft. above high water, small, white, and conspicuous. The
northern shore is bold, and the N.E. extreme terminates in a high white cliff.
The southern shore is low and wooded, fringed by islets and rocks to the dis*
tance of 1 mile.

South Watcher is a small wooded islet, 100 ft. high, lying nearly in mid-
channel at the eastern entrance of Estevan Sound, S.W. i W., 3} miles from

ESTKVAN ISLAND -NEPEAN SOUND.

5<13

Eclipse Island, and N.E. by E. i K. 3^ miles from I^rcakcr Puint. Ledges,
which uncover, extend 5 cables N.W. and S.E. of it. North IFatcher Islet,
60 ft. high, lies W. j N. 1 j mile from the South Watcher, and is surrounded
by ledges and sunken dangers to the distance of 8 cables. Blinder Rock,
breaking occasionally, lies S.W. by W. 1 mile from the South Watcher.
Ettevan Ledge, which uncovers, is a cable in extent, and lies 8 cables West of
the North Watcher. Breaker Point, the S.E. extreme of Estevan Island, is
low and wooded, and Don Ledge, which uncovers, extends 6 cables E.N.E. of
it. Breaker Reef, which nearly always breaks, extends nearly 1^ mile from
the shore, the outer rock lying 2 J miles S.W. of Breaker Point. Trap Rockt,
some awash at high water, extend 8 cables northward of the North extreme
of Estevan Island ; and thence front the western end of the island at th? dis-
tance of 6 to 2 cables.

ESTEVAN ISLAKD is about 14 miles long W. by N. and E. by S., and
from 2 to 5 miles broad. Its southern shores are comparatively low and
Avoodcd. Near the centre it attains an elevation of 1,500 to 1,700 ft., forming
a saddle-shaped mountain.

Haycock Island, small, bare, and 60 ft. high, lies W. by S. i S., 7 miles
from Breaker Point, and Haycock Rocks, three rocks awash, lie respectively
W. by S., S. by E., and N. by E., distant 1 mile from it. The passage between
Haycock and Estevan Islands should not be attempted.

Curtis Rock, breaking occasionally, lies 1 mile S.S.W. of Curtis Point.
Marchant Rock, over which the sea breaks at low water, lies 2 miles South
of Cox Point, the West extreme of Estevan Island, and IJ mile from the
nearest shore.

Cone Islet, small, wooded, and 250 ft. high, is the southernmost of the
Block Islets, and lies at the southern entrance of Otter Passage, at 2 miles
from the shore of Banks Island.

Otter Fauage leads to Nepoan Sound, between Estevan and Banks Islands ;
though nearly 1^ mile wide, it is obstructed on its western shore by Block Islets,
which contract the navigable channel to barely 4 cables wide in places. Thia
narrow channel is rendered more dangerous by the strong tides within it, and
in no case should Otter Passage be attempted, except ut slack water and with
local knowledge.

NEPEAN SOUND, between Estevan Sound and Principe Chauncl, is about
7 miles long ond 4 miles wide. Otter Channel leads westward from it to
Squally Channel, and is about 3^ miles long ; Sleep Point, its N.E. entrance
point, terminates in a high white cliff.

To the northward and westward of Ncpean Sound lie the extensive islands

forming Pitt Archipelago and Banks Island, separated from the continent by

Qrenvillo Canal, and from each other by the Canal de Principe; the first

80 named by Vancouver, on his exploration in 1793, and the latter by

North Paci/i«, 4 ▲

646

BRITISH COLUMBIA.

'.i ■(

i' 'I

.'I

Sciior Caamano, who first navigated it. The arc'npclago was named after th«
celebrated itatesman.

PBIHCIPS CHANNEL, between Banka Island and Pitt and McCauley
Islands, is about 42 milea long in a general W.N.W. and E.S.E. direction, and
from 2 1^ 7 miles wide. Its South shore is bold, with mountains from 1,200 to
1,700 ft. high over it. GaU Point is prominent, bold, and high, and lies
9 miles north-westward of Block Islets. A remarkable bore mountain, 1,260 ft.
high, lies close to the shore at 3 miles westward of Gale Point. Deadman
hUt, small and wooded, lies close off the North extreme of Banks Island, and
at 2 miles eastward of it is End Hill, an oval-shaped hill 460 ft. high, close to
the shore.

The North shore, the southern side of Pitt Island, is much broken, espe*
cially about midway, into bays, and the mountains, at about 3 miles from the
shore, rise to the height of 1,000 to 3,000 ft. Wolf Point, the S.E. entrance
point of Principe Channel, is high and conspicuous ; Brodie Rock, a dangerous
suukcn rock, lies 1 mile S.W. by W. i W. from it. Between Brodie Kock
and the shore the ground is foul to 2 miles westward of Wolf Point.

Port Stephens, on the North shore, at about 8 miles from Wolf Point, is
4 cables wide at its entrance, and thence extends N. by E. 6 cables, then N.E.
G cables, and thence in an easterly direction for 8 cables, terminating in two
bays, with a large stream at the head of the southern bay. It was named by
Capt. Duncan, in the Princess Royal, in 1788. Some islets lie westward of
the entrance. To reach the harbour keep about mid-channel, and haul
gradually to the eastward as the harbour opens out, and anchor in mid-
channel in about 12 fathoms. It is high water, on full and change, at 0** 30" ;
springs rise 18 feet.

Bluff Point, the western entrance point of Port Stephens, terminates in a
high white cliff. Oar Point lies W.N.W. 6 miles from Bluff Point ; west-
ward of it the coast recedes northward, terminating in Mink Trap Bay. Canoe
aaHGreen Top Islets, lying off the entrance of this bay, are both small, and
named from their appearance.

Mink Trap Bay, consists of two long narrow creeks, separated by a
peninsula ; this bay is useless as an anchorage for other than small vessels and
boats. At the head of the eastern arm is a village, to which a tribe of Indians
resort in summer for salmon fishing.

Anger Island, on the North shore, 9 miles westward of Oar Point, is about
4 miles long and 2 miles broad, with shoals extending 5 to 7 cables from its
South and East sides. Trade and Storm Islets extend from 6 cables to 1|
mile from its South and ea»tern shores

MeCanley Island, on the North shore, is 17 miles long, 9 miles broad, and
wooded nearly throughout. Near its centre it rises to the height of 1,1 GO ft.
Table Hill, 400 ft. high, lies close to the South shore. Off the S.E. end are
Vyteeler and Cliff Islets.

i
i

PEINCIPE CHANNEL— HANKS ISLAND.

647

Port Canaveral (of ScHor Caamano) lies near the S.E. extreme of
McCauIey Island. Diron Island lies on the western side of the port, with
several rocks and islets lying off its South and eastern rides. Alarm Rock is
a dangerous sunken rock, lying nearly in mid-chonnel at the mouth of I'ort
Canaveral, at 2 cables W.N.W. from Squall Point, and 2^ cables from Bed
Point Harbour Bank, with 6 fathoms over it (probably less), lies 1^ cablo
eastward of Alarm Uock.

Clown Rock, the outer danger extending S.E. of Dixon Island, dries 3 ft.,
and lies S.E. by E., 3 cables from Tonkin Point, the South extreme. Stephen
Rock, 3 ft. about high water, lies 1^ cable from Dixon Isl'ind ; its outer
portion, which uncovers, lies S.E. 2\ cables from Dimple Poitii, the N.E. ex-
trcme of Dixon Island.

Entering Port Canaveral, Dimple Point may be steered for when in lino
with Stephen Rock, N.W. by W., until Bush Islet, off the S.W. extreme of
Dixon Island, is just shut in with Tonkin Point, W.S.W. Tlie latter mark
kept on astern will lead to the anchorage ground, in 14 to 15 fathoms, sand,
at 1 J cable N.E. of the North entrance point, Rod Point. It is high water, on
full and change, at 0** 30*" ; springs rise 1 8 feet.

Petrel Channel, between Pitt and McCauley Islands, was not examined.
Its southern entrance is about 3 miles wide, thence the channel runs N.W. for
nearly 8 miles, when it divides, one passage running northward, the other
southward of Lofty Island, and again joining at 2 miles eastward of Ogden
Channel.

Ilankin Ledges extend nearly 1 mile off Ilankin Point, the S.W. extreme of
McCauley Island.

The mid-channel course should be kept when navigating Principe Channel,
until ncaring Anger Island, when the South shore should be neared to avoid
the dangers which extend off that island. The tidal streams run 3 knots an
hour at springs.

BANKS ISLAND is about 41 miles long W. by N. and E. by S., and from
5 to 10 miles broad. The southern shore is wooded and comparatively low,
seldom exceeding the height of 150 ft. This shore is broken into bays and
creeks, rendered useless as anchorages by numerous rocks awash, and sunken
dangers, extending 2 miles off in soaic places. Calamity Bay, at the S.E. ex-
treme of Banks Island, has iron-bound shores, with rocky islets and sunken
dangers occupying the bay nearly throughout. Breaker Islets lie off its South
•ide, the highest islet being about 70 ft. high, and wooded.

Terror Point, at the South extreme of Banks Island, is hi^h and bold,
200 ft. above high water. Terror Rocks, which break heavily, extend 1 mile
south-eastward of it.

Shrub Illet, 80 ft. high, with a conspicuous patch of bush on its summit,
lies 3 miles S.W. from Terror Point, and is surrounded by sunken rocks to the
distance of 3 cablcsi

BRITISH COLUMBIA.

North Danger Rooki, 7 miles S.S.AV. of Wreck Point, nnd 12^ miles west-
ward of Bhrub Islet, consist of five bare rocks, 10 ft above high water, sur-
rounded by rockj, awash and sunken, to the distance of 5 cables. Vessels
■hould keep southward of the line joining Shrub Islet and North Danger llocks,
and not pass between those dangers and Banks Island.

Halibnt Rookl consist of two dangerous clusters, covered at high water,
each about 5 cables in extent, lying W.N.W. and E.S.U., lj[ mile apart.
The centre of the eastern cluster lies E.S.K., 9 miles from the summit of
Bonila Island, and S.E. by S., 4^ miles from Cliif Point. Cliff Point termi-
nates in high white cliffs.

Bonila Island, O miles S.S.E. from the N.W. point of Banks Island, and
4 miles from the shore, is an excellent landmark. It is about 2 miles long,
East and West, and I mile broad, and near the centre reaches an elevation of
650 ft. The summit is dome-shaped, and during the summer is clothed with
purple-tinted heather. Landing may be effected at the head of the southern
small bay on the eastern side of the island.

South lioc/ii, two small clusters awash at high water, lie S.S.E. and N.N. W.,

1 mile apart. The southern group lies S.S.E. about 3^ miles from the sum-
mit of Bonila Island. High-water liocks, nearly midway between Bonila and
Cliff Point, arc awash at high water, about 2 cables in extent, at 2\ miles
E. ^ S., from the summit of Bonila. North-tcest Iloc/ts, lialf a mile in extent,
lie N.W. by W. 2 miles from the summit of Bonila ; the highest is 3 ft. above
high water. North liocks, about 5 cables in extent are awash at high water,
and lie E.NE. 1 ^ mile from the centre of North-west Rocks. Middle liocks,
two clusters awash at low water, lie respectively W.N.W. 1^ mile, and N.N.E.

2 miles from the summit of Bonila.

White Bock* lie close to the western extreme of Banks Island ; the two
largest are about 30 ft. high, bare and conspicuous. They form an excellent
landmark. Anchorngc for small craft, in fine weather, is stated to exist close
northward of White Rocks, at the mouth of a creek.

OGDEN CHANNEL, between Pitt and Porcher Islands, is about 1 6 miles
long, and from 4 cables to 1} mile wide. It affords the shortest means of
communication between Skidegatc Inlet, Queen Charlotte Islands, and the
inner waters, and runs into the North end of Grenville Channel (p. 637). At
its southern end the channel is divided by Spicer Island into two passages.
The flood stream comes from the southward, and both flood and ebb streams,
in the narrow portions of the channel, attain a velocity of 4 knots an hour
at springs.

On Dolphin Island Nubble Mountain, with an irregular broken summit,
rises to a height of 1,400 ft. ; S.E. of it, and close to the shore, lies False Cone
Hill. Off the S.E. shore of Dolphin Island lie two small islets, and some
rocks ; Sentinel Islet, the eastern islet, lies about a mile off shore, is wooded
and about 100 ft. high. On the eastern side of Dolphin Island, I'assaye Cont

OODEN CHANNEL— CHATHAM SOUND.

549

Hill rises to the height of 454 ft., ond is a useful mark for indicating Schooner
Passage.

Spioer Island is of triangular shape, ond 2^ miles long, attaining near its
centre on elevation of 827 ft. Oft* its S.W. side, nt 5 cables from the shore,
are Chrittie laleli, a cluster of islets and rocks. At 1 ^ mile southward of
Spieer Island is Long Iiland, low and wooded, Channel Islet lying nearly
midway between,

Chunnel Group lies 1 mile northward of Spieer Island, and half a mile
northward of it lie some small islets. South Twin lelet is a small wooded islet
on the eastern shore, 5 cables from the eastern bare ulet of the Channel Group
and 1 mile northward of Spieer Island. North Twin Islet lies 5 cables
N.N.W. of South Twin Islet; the tops of the trees on it are about 130 ft.
high. Several islets lie between the Twins and McCauley Island.

Beayer Faaiage, between McCauley and Spieer Islands, is the wider and
better of the two passages leading into Ogden Channel. At its western
entrance it is about 5 cables wide, a\ d runs N.E. by N. for about 4^ miles,
thence sharply to N.N.W. for 2i miles. To poss through it keep about mid-
channel. North Hock, always visible, lies nearly in mid-channel at 5 cables
S.E. of Long Island. Connia Jlocka extend 3 cables from the N.IO. extreme of
Spieer Island, the outer rock only covering nt high water.

Schooner Passage, between Spieer and Dolphin Islands, is barely 2 cables
wide in its narrowest part, and is about 3 miles long North and South. i?oy«
Hock, a dongerouB sunken rock, lies nt its suuthem end, 2 cables from the
S.E. extreme of Dolphin Island. Sentinel Island bearing W.N.W. will lead
southward ; and Passage Cone Hill bearing N. by W. will lead eastward of
Boys Rock. The passage lies between this rock and Christie Islets.

To pass through Schooner Passage, when abreast the North end of Spieer
Island, pass midway between that island and the Channel Group to the North
end of Beaver Passage.

Alpha Bay, on the eastern shore, 4 miles within the North entrance of
Ogden Channel, is nearly i mile wide, but only 3 cables deep. Neor its
northern end a deep valley extends inland, and through it flows a fine trout
stream. Anchorage may be found in 10 and II fathoms, 1^ cable from the
shore, with the South entrance point of the stream bearing N.E., distant 2^
cables; and Anchor Mountain, 1,934 ft. high, over the North shore of the
bay, N.E. i N. It is high water, on full and change, at noon ; springs rise
18 to 19 feet.

At 1 mile South of Alpha Bay, there is a remarkable white patch on the
rocky eastern shore.

Peninsula Point, the N.W. entrance point of Ogden Channel, is prominent,
with a hill near its eastern extreme. Northward of it lies Ootia Bay.

CHATHAl. SOUND ir an extensive sheet of water about 38 miles long
N.W. by N. and S.E. by S., and from 7 to 14 miles wide. It lies between

550

BaiTISn COLUMBIA.

the Taimpwnn Peninsuln and Stcplicns nnd Dundas Islands, its N.W. portion
washing the southern shores of Alaska. It communicates with Ilccatc Strnit
by three channels, Edye Passage, in the S.W. comer of the sound, being the
channel usually taken. The eastern shores of the sound are low, ond 8ome«
what indented with small bays, s a '^ounded by reefs. The interior country
oonsista of snowy mountains, and i! ero arc several conspicuous mountains near
the coast. The shores and islands produce large numbers of pino trees.

There are numerous detached groups of islands, islets, and rocks in the
sound, the relative positions of which will be best understood by referring to
the charts, llie southern portion of the sound is comparatively free from
danger, the rocky clusters being of considerable elevation above high water
and moderately steep-to. Northward of Mctlah-Catlah Bay, however, ledges
which uncover at low water extend in many places to the distance of 2 miles
from shore. Abreast Port Simpson, two clusters of rocks lie in the fairway of
the sound ; and being but little elevated above high water, render that portion
of the sound dangerous by night or in thick weather. Northward of Metlah-
Catloh Bay, during a fog, or if uncertain of the position, the eastern shore
should not bo approached under 70 fathoms; nor the western shore under
40 fathoms.

Point Hunt, the N.W. point of Malacca Passage (p. 539), is very con-
spicuous, and forms the North point of Pitt Archipelago. It is in lat.
54° 0^' N., ond from it the North shore of Porcher Island takes an irregular
direction of S.W. by S. to Point Pcarce, the southern point of Ilefuge Bay, the
intermediate space having several rocks off it.

Ooll Bockl, about half a mile in extent, the highest being about 30 ft. high,
lie W. by N., 3 miles from Hunt Point. Ettrick Rock, uncovering 3 ft., lies
8.E. by E., 1^ mile from the centre of Gull Bocks. Ilavelock Rock, un-
covering 6 ft., lies S.W. I W., 1 mile from Hunt Point.

Green Top Islet, 16 ft. high, lies N.W. by W. J W., 4J miles from the
western Lawyer Island (p. 539). Holland Itlet, 10 ft. high, lies E. by
N. } N., If mile from Oreen Top Islet, and at 1^ mile N.E. ^ E. of it is
KHion Islet, off the mouth of North 8keena Passage. Kinnahan Islands, two
in number, lie about a mile ftom the shore, and are about 200 ft. high. The
South Island lies 1^ mile N.N.W., from Green Top Island.

Rachel Illands {Lak-oh-witt) consist of two islands, about 1 mile in extent,
N.W. and S.E., wooded, and about 200 ft. high, lying nearly midway between
Tsimpsean Peninsula and Stephen Island. The S.E. island lies N.W., 3| miles
f^om Gull Rocks; and S.W. by W., 5^ miles from South Kinnahnn Island.
Alexandra Patch, 1 mile in diameter, has depths of 10 to 20 fathoms, over a
bottom of mud and sand. The eastern edge lies I mile North of Bachel
Islands.

Lnoy Itluidf are a group of islands and high-water rocks, the lorge islands
being wooded. They lie nearly in the middle of the sound abreast Metloh*

CHATHAM SOUND— METLAH-CATLAH DAY.

fiftl

Catlah Bay, and are about 1 inilo in extent Eoat abd West. Tbo eaatern and
largest island i» 200 ft. high, and lies N.W. 5| miles from North Kaohel
Island. This group is of great use when making Metlah-Catlah during thick
weather. A ledgo of rooks, which jiartially uncover, extends from 4 to 9
cables southward of the Lucy Group, the outer rook lying South 9 cables from
the casti'rn ittliiud.

T8IHPSEAN PEHINSULA separates Skeena River (p. 539) from Work
Channel ; it is nearly 32 miles long N.W. and S.E., with a greatest breadth of
miles.

][ETLAH.CATLAH BAT is formed between Digby and Tugwell Islands,
and has a large Indian village on its North shore. Tugwell Island is about
1 1 mile long North and South, and 200 ft. high to the tops of tho trees ; it is
fringed by dangerous rooky ground, especially on its S.E. side, and at low
water is connected with Mission Point, .-^l/ord Reefa lie midway between tho
South end of Tugwell Islaud and Cridge Iilandt, tho latter lying on the S.K.
side of the entrance to the bay ; these reefs are about 3 cables in extent, the
northern rock uncovering 2 ft. at low water. Northward of Cridge Islands
the shore of Digby Island is fronted by shoals and rocks.

Devastation Island, half a mile eastward of Tugwell Island, lies near the
centre of the bay ; it is nearly one-third of a mile long North and South, and
150 ft. high, with two islets close off its South end. From its North end a
shoal, partly uncovered at low water, extends 5 cables N.E. towards Piko
Island, and southward of this lino are several islets. Carr Islet, about 60 ft.
high, lies 5 cables N. by E. from Devastation Island, and is connected at low
water with the spit joining Tugwell Island to Observation Point, the latter
being in lat. 64° 20' 10' N., long. 130» 27' 30" W.

Eastward of Carr Islet the navigable channel becomes much contracted by
shoal water on each side, and Kelp Rock, a, dangerous sunken rock, nearly
midway between Observation Point and Shrub Islet on the opposite side,
narrows it to barely a cable wide at low water. Mission Point lies three-
quarters of a mile N.E. by E. i E. from Observation Point; Venn Creek here
extends to E. by S. and has several Indian salmon-fishing stations on its
shores.

The village of Mellah- Catlah is situated on Mission Point, the population
being estimated at over 1,000 in number. There is a mission station here,
where the young Indians, most of whom speak English, ore taught useful
trades, llie houses of the mission stand about 100 ft. above high water, and
have a picturesque appearance. Tliere is a salmon cannery here.

In entering Metlah-Catlah Bay, Carr Islet just shut in with the West
extreme of Devastation Island, bearing N. by E., northerly, will lead between
Alford Reefs and the foul ground off Tugwell IsUmd. The flagstaff on Mission
Point in line with tho West extreme of Pike Islond, N. by E., leads eastward
of Alford Reefs. Anchorage will be found in 11 to 12 fathoms, mud, 3 cables

062

BRITISH COLUMHIA.

off the West side of Devastation Island ; with the South extreme in line with
the smaller Cridgo Island, bearing S.K. by S., and thu South extreme of Carr
Islet in line with the flagstaff on Mission Point, N.lr!. | N. Small vessels
occasionally proceed into Venn Oreok and anchor off the village, in 10 to 12
fathoms, but the channel into this anchorage is barely 60 yards wide at low
water, and should only bo attempted by short vessels of light draught. It it
high water at Metlah-Catlah, on full and change, at noon ; springs rise 21 ft.

Approaching Metlah-Catlah from the south-eastward, if the Lawyer Qroup
bo kept in lino with Orccn Top Island, S.K. by £. i E., that mark ustem will
lead directly to the entrance of Metlah-Catlah Bay. In thick weather, do not
shoal to less than 40 fathoms, and Lucy Islands should be cautiously steered
for and made, taking care to avoid the reefs on their South side. The large
island should bo brought to boar S.W. ^ W. astern, and a N.E. i E. course
should take a vessel to the mouth of Metlah-Catlah Bay. The bank of 10
fathoms and less water extends nearly 1 mile southward of TugwcU Island, and
the hand lead, if proceeding slowly, should indicate its position.

DUNCAN BAY, on tho North side of TugwcU Island, affords anchorage to
vessels desirous of communicating with Metlah-Catlah during the prevalence
of south-easterly winds. Its entrance is about If mile wide, and thence it
takes an easterly direction for about 1^ mile, terminating in the sandspit
which connects Tugwoll Island and Observation Point. Shoal water extends
5 cables northward of Tugwcll Island, and ledges and sunken rocks extend
ncorly 7 cables from tho North shore of tho bay. Jlecale Hock, with 10 ft.
water over it, lies near the head of the bay.

To anchor in Duncan Bay, pass 1 mile north-westward of Tugwell Island
and when the South extreme of Oribbell Island is seen just open of Observa-
tion Point E. i S., that mark should bo steered for, and a berth taken up on
that bearing, in 8 to 10 fathoms, mud, with the N.W. extreme of Tugwell
Island bearing S.W. by W.

Tree Bluff, tho South entrance point of Big Bay, lies 5 miles N.W. by
N. i N. from Ryan Point, the North point of Duncan Bay. The shore
between is low and wooded, but at 3 miles back from the coast it rises into
high land; tho two most conspicuous mountains being Mission Mountain,
1,310 ft., and Deer Mound, 2,230 ft. high. Immediately southward of Tree
Bluff is a wooded hill, close to the shore, 250 ft. high.

Between Metlah-Catlah and Big Bays, dangerous ledges extend off shore in
many places to the distance of 2 miles. These ledges uncover at low water,
and arc steep-to. Abreast Tree Bluff the edge of the bank, which dries at low
water, lies 1^ mile from the shore.

Hodgson Eeeft are a dangerous cluster of reefs which lie north-westward
of Duncan Bay. Their South part, which uncovers at low water, lies N.W.,
2 miles from Tugwell Island, and W.N.W., If mile from Ryan Point. From
that position, dangerous sunken rooks extend in a N.N.W. directioq for

w
Ij

CHATHAM SOUND— BIG BAY.

2 miles. The South side of Kinnahan iBlandH, juat showing clear of Tugwell
Island, S.E. | E., leads westward of Hodgson Reeft ; the eastern Lucy Island,
if not brought to bear South of S. by E., astern, until Mount Ori/Bn is seen in
line with the North end of Burntcliff Island N. by E. ^ E., leads westward of
all dangers off Big Bay entrance.

BIO BAT (Lak-IIou), is 2^ miles wide at its entrance between Tree Bluff
and South Island, and takes an easterly direction for 3| miles. The head
of the bay, named Salmon River Biyht, into which run several streams, is
fronted by a sand-flut, drying 1 mile out at low water. South ItLnd is small
and wooded, with a sharp summit 50 ft. high. A ledge of sunken rooks
extends 5 cables S. ^ W. from South Island, and eastward of it, on the edge
of the reefs, lie Ilaycock and White Cliff Islets, the latter terminating^ in high
white cliffs. A S-fathoms bank lies 3 cables S.E. of White Cliff Island.
Shaltock Point, 3 cables E.N.E. of Wliite Cliff Island, is the N.W. point of
Salmon Biver Bight.

Ripple Dank, about 2 cables in extent, has 12ft. least water over it, -indy
bottom, near the eastern end: at about a mile S. by W. | W., from South
Island. Escape Reefs are a dangerous cluster of reefs lying in the mouth
of Big Bay. The western vecf has 4 ft. water over it, and lies S. J W,
\\ mile from South Island. The eastern reef, 5 cables to E.N.E., has 5 ft.
water over it. In summer kelp is found in great quantities upon Escape
Kcefs, and near the head of Big Bay.

Sharp Peak, 2,970 ft. high, on the ridge S.E. of Mount OrifBn, in line with
the South end of Swallow Island, on the North shore of the bay, bearing
E. by N., will lead directly into Big Bay, where anchorage will be found in
11 and 12 fathoms, mud, with Haycock Island in line with the North extreme
of South Island, N.W. by W. J W., and \VTiite Cliff Island in line with Mount
Griffin, N. by W. J W.

Bnrntoliff Island, northward of South Island, is about half a mile long, and
wooded, rising near its North end to 200 ft. high. Its North extreme termi-
nates in high reddish-brown cliffs ; the N.E. extreme is cultivated, and from
that point a long bank of shingle, awash at high water, extends 3 cables in a
Aorth-easterly direction. The whole space inshore of South and Burntcliff
Islands, uncovers at low water. One Tree Islet, 4 cables N.W. of Burntcliff
Island, has a sharp wooded summit, 150 ft. high, and is surrounded by a
ledge, which uncovers.

Flat Top Islands, 3^ cables northward of One Tree Islet, consist of three
wooded islands, surrounded by ledges and foul ground to the distance of
1^ cable.

Sparrowhawk Book, a dangerous sunken pinnacle rock, with 5 ft. water,
lies N.W. J N., nearly 5 cables from the North extreme of One Tree Islet.
H.M.S. Sparrotchauk struck un it in I8G6. It lies nearly midway betweoii One
North Pacific. 4 u

i !

BRITISH COLUMBIA.

Tre« and Fin1uy»oii iBlanda. and is stoop- to. Leading Peak, the first peak to
the S.E. on the ridge from Mount Qriffin, just open southward of the wood-
cutting establishniont abreast Otter Anchorage, R. by N. | N., will lead
northward of the rock, and southward of DodJ Rock, which lies a little
over 2 cables South from Fortune Point, with ledges between. Dodd Rock
only covers at the highest equinoctial tides, and there is deep water a short
distance southward of it.

Pearl Harbonr, eastward of One Tree Islet, is nearly 5 cables in diameter,
and affords good anchorage in 9 to 10 fathoms, mud, near the middle.

Finlayion Island is 2| miles long N.W. i N. and S.E. ^ S., and 1 mile
broad, 200 ft. high, and wooded. Fortune Point, its South extreme, termi*
nates in cliffs ; but Gordon Point, the North extreme, is compnrati' ely low,
with ledgt") uncovering 2 cables to the northward.

Red Cliff Point, on the East side of Cunningham Passage, f> cables X.E.
from Fortune Point, h rendered conspicuous by the high cliiTs over it, aad the
small islet close to.

Ottor Anchorage, at the South end of Cunningham Passage, near the
eastern shore, is useful if communicating with the wood-cutting establinhm'^nt
abreast it. Anchorage in 15 to 17 fathoms, nnnd, will be found with the
centre of the establishment in line with Leading Peak, K. by N. \ N., and the
northernmost Flat Top Island S. by E., distant 1^ cable. Tlie wood-cutting
establishment, from which the principal supplies for Port Simpson are
obtained, lies near the middle of a sandy bay, which dries nearly throughout
at low water.

Ctmningham Paaiage, eastward of Finlayson Island, is barely Z^ cables
wide in its southern part, but northward of Sarah Point, the N.E. extreme
of Finlayson Island, it widens out. To enter it steer N.E. for Red Cliff Point
in line with Fortune Point, until the mark comes on for clearing Sparrowhawk
Bock.

PORT SIMPSON is the most spacious harbour on this part of the coast,
and has a large area of smooth water anchorage, easy of access at all times of
tide. At its entrance, between One Tree Islet and Birnie Island, it is nearly
li mile wide; thence it takes an easterly direction for about 3^ miles, con-
tracting gradually as the head is approached, and terminating in a narrow
bight, named Stumaun Bay, which dries. At its head are several streams,
where salmon are caught. Mount Griffin, with its triangular summit, 1,410 ft.
high, southward of the port, is conspicuous, and on the North shore ore two
wooded hills, about 870 ft. high, named George and Lizzie. The mouth of a
lagoon, on that shore, is also conspicuous.

The greatest depth in Port Simpson is 29 fathoms, but the average depths
near the anchorage ground nre from 12 to 18 fathoms, mud. The usual
anchorage lies off the fort, in about 10 fathoms ; a good berth is with Parkin
Islands just open northward of Birnie Island, bearing N.W., westerly. A

CiIATIIAM SOUND— POilT STMrsON.

rnndjr patch of S fathoma liea off Fort Simpaon, with the Fort gato bearing
S.K. i E., and the polo on One Tree Talct, 8.W. 4 cable.

Village Iiland, at the S.W. entrance nf Port Simpnon, ia about 2^ cable*
long, and liea about a cable fVom the shore, with which it ia connected at half
tide ; on ita aouthem extreme is a Taimpaean Tillage, oonneoted with the ahore
bj a bridge. Near its N.W. extreme in a high pole. The observation spot,
on the N.W. extreme, is in lat. 64" 83' 61' N., long. 130» 26' 36" W. One
Trtt Islet lies close to the N.W. extreme of Village Island, and near ita
western end st^inds (or stood) a conspicuous decayed tree.

Birnie Island, at the N.W. entrance of Port Simpson, is three-qnartera of n
mile long North and South, and rises to a height of 330 ft. Ledges, which
uncover, extend 1 cable from Knox Point, its South extreme. The channel
northward of the island is obstructed by ledges.

Hankin Ree/t, which partially uncover, lie S.W. of Village Island, their
S.W. extreme being distant a little over 3 cables. Fortune Point just simi
in with Sarah Point, S. by E. 4 F . loads westward of them. Harbour Hee/i,
an extensive plateau of rocks awash at high water, form a natural breakwater
at the mouth of Port > npson, and protect the anchorage from N.W. winds.
It is nearly square in shape, and about 1 mile in extent, the S.E. portion lying
W.N.W.. 2^ cables from Une Tree Islet.

Dodd PaiMge lies between Ono Tree Islet and Harbour Reefs, and leads to
the anchorage off Fort Simpson ; it is 2 cables wide, with depths of 6 and 8
fathoms in it, and is available for steam-vessels, but local knowledge ia neccs-
aary. The mouth of the Ingoon on the North shore of Port Simpson, seen just
open westward of One Tree Islet, bearing N.E. i N., leads through.

Inskip Passage, the northern and principal entrance into Port Simpson,
lies between Birnie Island and Harbour Kcefs, and is a little over 6 cables
wide, with depths of 11 to 20 fathoms. In approaching from the Cunningham
Passage, Sarah Point in line with the South point of a bay on the eastern
shore bearing S.E. i E., astern, will lead midway between Harbour Reefs and
Finlayson Island.

Lizzie Hill, bearing N.E., will lead through the centre of Inskip Passage,
nntil Parkin Island is seen just open northward of Birnie Island, bearing
N.W., westerly, which mark kept on astern will lead up to the anchorage.

FORT SIMPSON was originally formed by the Hudson Bay Company at
the mouth of Nass River, but in 1831 the trading post was removed hither, on
account of the good anchorage found in the vicinity and the facilities afforded
tp sailing vessels. It stands near the S.W. entrance point of the b: v, close to
the beach, and when seen from seaward presents a strong and compact ap«
pearance. A large entry gato faces the beach, with a landing jetty of stones in
front of it. Excellent potatoes, lettuces, and radishes are grown, also rasp-
berries and strawberries in abundance. The climate is very uncertain. The
Company's trading steam-vessel calls periodically at Port Simpson, bringing

i;:i

656

BRITISH COLUMBIA.

r '

;!i

supplies and returning with the Airs. Wood, water, potatoes, and crabs, can
be obtained in Port Simpson.

Before the fort was built, the villages of the Tsimpsean Indians were at
Metlah-Catlah, but the tribe being great traders, as well as hunters, thej
migrated nearer the trading post, and settled along the beach on either side of
the fort, and upon Village Island. In front of the houses high poles are
erected, with grotesque carvings on them. In 1868 the Indians numbered
about 2,000; in 1884 they were stated to number only about 800. There
is a Methodist mission here.

The language of trading, and for communication generally between tribes
speaking different dialects, is called Chinook. This jargon consists of English,
French, and Indian words strung together, with no grammatical basis. It is
readily acquired, and almost universally spoken by the coast tribes from the
Columbia River to Alaska.

The great :rise and fall of tide here permits a vessel to be beached ; a good
site will be found for this purpose just westward of the fort, the bottom con-
sisting of hartl sand, wifh a covering of weeds.

Tides. — It is high water at Port Simpson, on full and change, at 1** 30" ;
springs rise 17 vo 22 ft., neaps 14 to 17 feet.

For swinging to Uocertain the deviation of the compass, the hearing of the
knob at the North end of Table Hill on Dundas Island, froiu th? anchorage in
Port Simpson, is N. 76° 00' W. {true), distant 12 miles.

Parkin Islands, about 1^ mile N.W. | N. from Birnie Island, are about a
cable in extent N.W. and S.E., and though small, are 250 ft. high, wooded
and conspicuous. Codfish, of large size, are caught on a bank of 33 fathoms,
between these islands and Pointers Rocks.

Maskeljrne Point, the 8.E. entrance point of Portland Inlet, was so named
after the astronomer ; it lies li mile N. J E. of Parkin Islands, and S.E. ^ S.
3 miles from Wales Point, the N.W. point of Portland Inlet entrance.

Work or Wark Channel. — Immediately northward of Point Maskelyne is
the narrow entrance to this branch, which takes a general E. by S. ^ S.
direction for 32 miles, its head approaching the N.E. part of Skecna River
entrance, thus forming the land into a peninsula. Its S.W. shores are nearly
straight and compact ; its general width from 1^ to 2 miles, excepting near
the entrance, where it has a breadth of about 4 cables for a distance of 7 miles.
Here the tide runs at the rate of about 4 knots. An arm diverges from its
N.E. shore, at 23 miles within the entrance, and trends in a general N.E.
direction, but is made into a tortuous channel by a remarkably steep, rocky
precipice, which at high water becomes an island. It had formerly been
appropriated to the residence of a very numerous tribe of Indians. Wark
Channel has not been closely examined.

PRESCOTT and STEPHEN ISLANDS lie in the S.W. part of Chatham
Sound, with a boat passage between them. Together thoy are about 12 miles

CHATHAM SOUND— EDYE PASSAGE.

667

long W. by N. and E. by S., of triangular shape. Prescott Island is 820 ft.
high ; Stephen Island attains an elevation of 1,340 ft. near its East end, but its
southern shores are comparatiTely low, with some white cliffs near the centre.

Tree-nob Groups are an extensive labyrinth of islands, islets, and rooks
awash at low water, which extend 6 miles in a north-westerly direction from
the N.W. side of Stephen Island. The larger islets are wooded, and Van-
couver describes them as " an intricate inhospitable labyrinth." Butterworth
Rocks are a dangerous cluster, the southernmost 10 ft. high, with several
patches which uncover extending three-quarters of a mile north-westward of
it. This rock lies 3^ miles S.W. by 8. f S. from the S.W. island of the Tree-
nob Group.

EOYE PASSAGE, on the South side of Prescott and Stephen Islands, is
the channel usually taken between Chatham Sound and Hecate Strait. It is
comparatively free from danger, and at its northern end is Refuge Bay, an
excellent anchorage. The flood approaches from the westward, and both
streams set through the passage, at an average rate of 2 knots an hour.

Goschen Island, on the South side of the western entrance of Edye Passage,
is separated from Porcher Island by Canoe Passage, which was not examined.
Cape George, in lat. 53° 51' N., is its S.W. point, and for 5 miles northward
of this the coast is fronted by a rocky ledge of 4 to 8 fathoms, extending nearly
4 miles off, with several rocks, awash and sunken, within a mile of the shore.
Oval Hill, 630 ft. high, near the West extreme of the island, is conspicuous,
and 2 miles northward of it is a flat- topped hill, 170 ft. high.

Seal Rocks, a small cluster 10 ft. high, lie 6 miles W.N.W. of Oval Hill,
and 4 miles S.W. by S. } 8. from Cape Ibbetson. Warrior Rocks, 30 ft. high,
are two bare rocks 8 cables apart, E. by S. and W. by N., the eastern rock
lying 3 J miles N.W. i W. from Seal Rocks.

Cape Ibbetson, the southern entrance point of Edye Passage, and the N.W.
point of Pitt Archipelago, is a very conspicuous projecting land. It is the
North point of William Island, to the eastward uf which is Henry Island.
Arthur Island lies on the opposite side of the passage, off the southern side of
Prescott Island. Iruscott Patch, with 16 ft. water upon it, lies IJ mile
E.N.E. from Cape Ibbetson, and 6 cables off Henry Island. Foul ground
extends 3 cables off the S.E. side of Ai-thur Island.

Directions. — Approaching Edye Passage from the southward, to clear the
ledges off Goschen Island, the eastern portion of the high white cliffs on the
South side of Stephen Island should not be brought to bear westward of North
until Oval Hill is seen in line with Seal Rocks, S.E. by E. j E. Thence
steer N.E. J N. until the South and S.E. points of Arthur Island are in
line, which may then be steered for, bearing E. by N. J N. Pass half a mile
southward of the South extreme of Arthur Island, and when the entrance
points of Refuge Bay are seen in line, steer for them, bearing N.E. by N.,
taLlng care to avoid the small patch which nncovers at low water, 3 ca'ulcs off

I ■ !

5&8

BRITISH COLUMBIA.

the South point of Useless Bay. Pass 2 to 3 cables westwoi-d of Pearce Point,
the South entrance point of Refuge Bay, and to enter Chatham Sound a
N.W. by N. course should then be steered towards Rachel Islands, passing
midway between that group and OuU Rocks.

Refuge Bay, at the N.W. extreme of Forcher Island, is an excellent
stopping-place during south-easterly winds, and here the state of the weather
in Hecate Strait can be ascertained. The entrance is 7 cables wide, and it
thence takes a south-easterly direction for about a mile, terminating in a sand-
flat which extendd neaily 5 cables from its head. Anchorage will be found in
12 to 14 fathoms, sand and mud, near the middle of the bay, with Table Point,
the North entrance point, bearing N.N.W., and Pearce Point, W. by S. ^ S.

It is high water in Befuge Bay, on full and change, at 1** 30"* ; springs rise
17 to 22 ft., neaps 14 to 17 feet.

Brown Passage, between Tree-nob Islands and South Duudas Island, is
about 6 miles long and 5 miles wide. Nearly in mid-channel, however, lie
Hanmer Rocks, dividing it into two channels. This passage is not recom-
mended to strangers ; the tides off the entrance are strong and irregular.

Stenhouse Shoal has only about 7 ft. water on it, and is reported to cover
an area of about 2,500 square yards; it lies off the entrance at 6^ miles
S.W. by W. from the South extreme of South Dundas Island, and W. by N.,
5 miles from the outer Osborne Island. North Breaker is the N.W. known
danger extending from the Tree-nob Group, and lies W.N.W. 1 mile from
the outer Osborne Island.

Hanmer Bock is awash at high water, with several patches, which uncover,
extending three-quarters of a mile W.N.W. It lies nearly in mid-chanuel,
N. by £. 2^ miles from the outer Osborne Island, S. by W. 2^ miles from
Cape Islet, and £. by N. 5^ miles from Stenhouse Shoal. Lucy Island bearing
E.N.E. leads South of it, and bearing £. } N., North of it.

Simpton Rock lies on the North side of Brown Passage S. by W., three-
quarters of a mile from Cape Islet ; it is 6 ft. high, with rooks awash ex-
tending half a mile westward, and a patch which uncovers 3 ft. at 3 cables
S.E. of it. Beaver Bock, with 12 ft. water on it, lies S.S.E. 1^ mile from
the S.E. extreme of South Dundas Island. Several patches of rock lie between
it and the shore.

Qlawdzeet Anchorage lies on the N.W. side of Stephens Island, and here
Vancouver stayed in company with three ships in search of furs, &c., under
the command of Mr. Brown. Its entrance is three-quarters of a mile wide, and
thence it extends 1 mile in a southerly direction. Entrance Bee/, awash at high
water, lies 2 cables N.W. of the eastern entrance point. The North end of
Tugwell Island in line, astern, with the eastern Lucy Island N.E. by N. ^ N.,
will lead to the entrance, when keep in mid-channel, and anchor 3 cables
within the bay and Iji oable off the South shore, in 13 to 14 fathoms, mud,

CHATHAM SOUND— DUNDAS ISLANDS.

It is high water, on full and change, at 1^ 30"; tprings rise 17 to 22 ft.,
neaps 14 to 17 feet

DUNDAS ISLANDS, so named hj Vancourer, are three in number, the
northernmost being the largest and highest. Their western shores have not
been thoroughly examined.

South Dundai hland is about 3 miles long N.W. and S.E., and 5 miles
broad. The shores are comparatively low, and wooded, but near the middle a
mountain range rises to the height of 1,400 ft., with four conspicuous peaks
which lie in a N.E. and S.W. direction. Middle Dundat Island lies about

2 miles north-westward, the passage between being obstructed by numerous
islets and rocks. It is nearly 5 miles long N.W. and S.E., and in general is
low and wooded, but near the southern end the land suddenly rises in an oval-
shaped hill, Coast Mound, 7<50 ft. high, a useful landmark. Connel Islands
are a group of small wooded islands off the western side of Middle Dundas
Island. The outer island lies about 2 miles from the shore.

North Dundas Island is about 12 miles long North and South, and about
7 miles broad near its North end. At 4 miles from its South end is T/tumb
Peak, 2,500 ft. high. Near the North end is Table Hill, 700 ft. high, with a
flat top, and a knob near its North end, a most conspicuous and useful mark.

Zayas Island, the largest of the islands off the western shore of North
Dundas Island, appeared to be about 4 miles long North and South, is wooded,
and about 260 ft. high. A ledge of rocks was observed to extend nearly a
mile from the N.W. extreme, and from the West side rocks are said to extend

3 miles. There is a good channel between Dundas and Zayas Islands, fre-
quently used by steamers.

Channel Islands, about 100 ft. high, extend across the channel between
Middle and North Dundas Islands, rendering that channel useless for any but
the smallest class of sailing vessels. Moffat Islands, lying close to the eastern
shore of Dundas Islands, extend over a distance of 6 miles N.W. and S.E.,
the highest being about 250 ft. in height. They show out well, being clothed
with a peculiar deep green pine tree.

Dude hland, a small wooded islet, 350 ft. high, lies 1 mile N.W. of the
Moffat Group ; two conspicuous white rocks, 30 ft. high, lie 3 cables west-
ward of it. Whitesand Islet, about 10 ft. high, lies 6 cables N.E. by E. from
Ducie Island ; a ledge of rocks, which uncover, extends 4 cables N.W. and
S.E. ofit.

Hammond Rock, with 9 ft. water over it, lies 9 cables E.N.E. from the S.E.
extreme of the S.E. Moffat Island. Coghlan Rock, with 3 ft. water, and
6 and 7 fathoms close around, lies 2 miles N.W. of Hammond Rock. Brodie
Rock, 3J miles N.W. of Coghlan Bock, is a dangerous pinnacle with only 3 ft.
over it at low water. Rachel Islands open northward of the Lucy Group,
bearing S.E. ^ S., will lead northward of the above-mentioned dangers ; but in

fiOO

BRITISH COLUMBIA.

II I

i l:

'ii

thick weather, the western shore of Chatham Sound must not be approached
under the depth of 40 fathoms.

Pointers Rooks lie at the North end of Chatham Sound, and are a dan-
gerous cluster of bare rocks, 3 ft. above high water, about 2 cables in extent
North and South. The southernmost and highest rock lies N.N.W., 3 miles
from the North extreme of Finlayson Island ; and W.S.W., 2^ miles from the
North extreme of Birnie Island.

Gonnis Bocks lie nearly in the middle of Chatham Sound, abreast Port
Simpson. The southernmost and highest rock is 15 ft. high, and from it rocks
extend 2 cables in a northerly direction. It lies W.S.W. 5^ miles from the
North extreme of Finlayson Island, and S.W. by S. 3f miles from Pointers
Uocks. Vancouver remarks : — " These in the daytime and clear weather are
easily avoided ; but in dark nights, or foggy weather, they must render the
navigation of the sound very da-jerous."

Oreen Islet, 3 miles S.W. by W. of Connis Rocks, and about 1^ mile off
the East side of North Dundas Island, is 40 ft. high, and has a small rock
lying close northward, and another close southward of it. Grey Islet, 30 ft.
high, lies 9 cables North of Green Islet; a rock with 6 ft. over it lies
1 mile W.N.W. of it, and another of 4 ft. at 3 cables S> uth of it.

Main Passage, between Pointers and Connis Kocks, is 3^ miles wide.
Oriflamme Passage, between Connis Rocks and Green and Grey Islets, is
3 miles wide. The passage between Dundas Island and Green and Grey
Islets, is nearly 1^ mile wide, but the tides in it ore strong ; and the channel is
not recommended to a stranger.

Onarled Islands, about 1 mile in extent East and West, lie off the N.W.
side of North Dundas Island; they are from 150 to 250 ft. in height, the
eastern islet lying W. ^ N. 2J miles from the N.E. extreme of the Dundas
Group, but the channel between is stated to be obstructed by ledges and
sunken rocks. White Rocks, about 30 ft. high, lie half a mile from the N.W.
extreme of North Dundas Island.

DIXON ENTRANCE is the channel passing northward of Dundas Islands,
and between Prince of Wales and Queen Charlotte Islands. Several sunken
dangers are reported to lie on or near a line joining the North end of the
Dundas Group and the South end of the Prince of Wales Group.

Cape Fox, so named by Vancouver, is about 8 miles northward of the
Gnarled Island Group, and terminates in remarkable high, white cliffs ; with a
conspicuous saddle-shaped mountain, 1,800 ft. high, immediately over it.
Lord Islands, about a mile extent, 3 miles S.E. of Cape Fox, are wooded,
and about 250 ft. high. A ledge, which uncovers 3 ft. at low water, lies
8 cables S.W. by S. from the S.W. island.

Tongas Island lies about 3 miles eastward of Cape Fox ; NaJiat Inlet, the
channel between, was not examined, but it extends in a northerly direction,
terminating in a stream in about lat. 54° 56' N., long. 1 30° 40' W. There is

ill

DIXON ENTRANCE— PORTLAND INLET.

661

a military poat of the United States here, but the approaches to the settlement
are intricate and require local knowledge ; the anchorage abreast the fort is
bad, with deep water and limited accommodation even for a vessel of moderate
length.

Boston Islands, lying off Wales Island, at the S.E. approach to Tongas, are
about a mile in extent East and West. The larger islands are woodc 1, the
western island being 450 ft. high, and conspicuous. A ledge, which uncovers,
lies 1 mile E. by S. from Boston Islands, and 1 mile off Wales Island.

Wales Island, on the N.W. side of the entrance to Portland Inlet, is about
7 miles long East and West. The N.E. shore is bold, with some conspicuous
reddish-brown cliffs nearly midway between the North and South extremes.
On the South side, about 1 mile westward of Wales Point, a deep bay faces
south-eastward, having some rooks within it, and a wooded islet at the
mouth, 1^ mile 8.W. ^ W. from Wales Point, having a smaller one 1 mile
south-westward of it. Entry Peak, about half a mile N.W. of Wales Point, is
1,400 ft. high, with a sharp conspicuous summit ; and near the middle of Wales
Island is a mountain, with a flat summit, 1,100 ft. high.

Tides. — The tides in Dixon Entrance and Brown Passage, especially in
their western parts, are variable and complicated. The flood stream approaching
from the southward is met by the stream passing northward of Queen Char-
lotte Islands, at about midway between the N.E. extreme of the latter and
the Tree-nob Group. Northward of that position this meeting of the streams
produces tidal irregularities, and at spring tides, or during bad weather, the
turmoil caused by the meeting of the streams is very great. In Chatham
Sound the tides set fairly through.

A strong current sets out of Portland Inlet and Wark Channel into
Chatham Sound, end sweeps past the Pointers, and then flows out through
Dixon Entrance. The current is about 2^ miles per hour. — Captain J. C,
Brundige.

PORTLAND INLET extends N. by E. i E. from the N.E. part of
Chatham Sound for 10 miles, thence N. by iil. for 10 miles, where it divides.
Observatory Inlet co.^i,inuing northward, and Portland Canal taking a N.W.
and northerly direction. It is from 2^ to 4 miles wide, and the shores are
high and bold, especially the eastern. Needle Peak, on the S.E. side of
Nasoga Gulf, is a sharp snow-dad pinnacle, 5,000 ft. high. The entrance,
between Wales and Maskelyne Points, is about 3 miles wide.

Point Wales is situated opposite the entrance of Wark Inlet, and would
appear, from the chart, to be only about 3^ miles distant, while in reality it is
little, if anything, short of 8 miles distant. — Mr. H. J. Cambie (Engineer in
charge of Bailway Surveys in 1879).

Compton island, on the East side of Work Channel entrance, is 2 miles long,
terminating in a long, low point, at its northern extreme. Emma Passage,
North Pacific. 4 c

562

BRITISH COLUMBIA.

eastward of it, u 5 cables wide, and runs E.S.E. for 3 miles to Union Bay, and
thence N.N.E. 3 miles, terminating in a sandy bay. Union Bay affords
anchorage for small vessels in 20 fathoms.

Somerville Island, 2,000 ft. high, on the eastern side of the inlet, is 8(
miles long N. by E. and S. by W., and 3 miles broad. The shores are wooded
and bold. Elliott Point, its South extreme, lies N. by E. 4 miles from
Maskelyne Point. Truro Island, 2 cables off the S.W. side of Somerville
Island, is about H mile long, wooded, with bold shores, and rising to two hills
800 ft. high. Vancouver found anchorage off a small bay on its West side in
35 fathoms, soft bottom. Nob Islet, 30 ft. high, lies close to the shore at
8 cables from the North end of Truro Island. There is a remarkable white
cliff just southward of it. Start Point, the North extreme of Somerville
Island, is high and bold, with a deep bay close eastward of it.

Steamer Passage, eastward of Somerville Island, is about 5 cables wide,
with deep water. Khutzeymateen Inlet, 5 miles within the entrance, was
not examined. Quinamass Bay, on the eastern side of the North end of the
passage, is nearly filled up with a sand-flat, rendering the bay useless as an
anchorage.

Naioga Qulf, eastward of My lor Peninsula, extends in a north-easterly
direction for 5 miles, and is 1 mile wide. Anchorage will be found 2 cables
from the head, in 10 to 12 fathoms, sand, in mid-channel. My lor Peninsula
is 9^ miles long N. by E. and S. by W., with an average breadth of 2 miles.
Tre/usii Point, the South extreme, terminates in high white cliffs, and
3 cables off it is the bare Banger Islet. The North extreme terminates in
Low Point, low and wooded, the southern entrance point of Nass Bay.

Pearie Island, forms the western side of Portland Inlet. York Islet, 5
cables N.E. of the North extreme of Wales Island (p. 561), on the West side
of Portland Inlet, is wooded, and 100 ft. high. Abreast it an intricate channel
leads westward to Tongas Passage. Cliff Point, lies N. J E., 7 miles from
Wales Point, and about 3^ miles from York Islet, terminating in high cliffs,
with a narrow creek southward of it. Lizard Point, 3 miles N.N.E. of Cliff
Point, has sandy bays close North and South of it, and when seen from the
westward, makes as an island. At 2} miles northward of Lizard Point are
some conspicuous red-brown earthy cliffs. Portland Point, about 18 miles
within the imet, lies 8^ miles North of Lizard Point ; it forms the turning
point into Portland Canal, and is high and bold.

Bamsden Point, which divides Observatory Inlet from Portland Canal, lies
2^ miles N.N.E. of Portland Point, and has a dangerous cluster of rocks,
awash and sunken, extending 4 cables S.E. of it. At half a mile eastward of
Low Point, is Landslip Mountain, 2,040 ft. high, v<th a bare side facing
the N.W.

NASS BAY, northward of Mylor Peninsula, is 2 miles wide at the entrance,
and preserves this width in an easterly direction for 3 miles, and then

PORTLAND INLET— NASS BAY AND RIVER.

663

di^-ides, one branch running in a N.E. direction to the mouth of Nass Riyer,
the other to the S.W., foru.*!tig Iceberg Bajr. An extensive sand-flat
occupies nearly the whole of the eastern portion of the bay. North Point,
the North entrance point, terminates in a bold cliff; at 1 mile eastward
of it is Mission Valley extending to the northward, on the western side
of which Mount Tomlinson, 3,385 ft. high, will be seen. A large stream
runs through the Talley, and on the East side of its mouth stands Kincolith
Mission Station, in lat. 64° 69' 26" N., long. 129" 67' 36" W. Fort Point, the
N.W. entrance point of Nass River, terminates in white cliffs ; and on the
eastern side of the bay, Mud Islands, low and dark, will be seen, the northern
one 145 ft. high, and the other 106 ft. high.

Canoe Flat, an extensive sand-flat, commences at Fort Point, and taking a
S. W. direction, forms a triangle, the apex of which lies 6 cables off shore, S.E.
of the mission station ; thence it takes a N.W. direction to the shore half a
mile westward of Kincolith. This flat renders communication with Kincolith
by boat, except at high water, almost impossible. The western portion of
Nass Bay is deep.

Anchorage, in fine weather, will be found off Kincolith, nearly in the middle
of Nass Bay, on the line joining the mission station and Landslip Mountain, in
10 fathoms, mud, about 8 cables from the North shore ; with the mission
flagstaff in line with the centre of Mission Valley, bearing N. by E. A strong
ebb tide will be felt in this position, and Canoe Flat being very steep-to, it is
recommended to use the deep-sea lead in approaching it.

It is high water at Nass Bay, on full and change, at l** 6" ; springs rise
17 to 23 feet.

Iceberg Bay extends 3 miles to S.S.W., and is not lees than 7 cables wide,
but the entrance is narrowed by the shoal extending from Nass River to
within 2i cables of Double Island Point, the West entrance point. Here the
depth of 10 fathoms, and less, will be found ; but it deepens to over 40
fathoms towards the head of the bay. Anchorage may be obtained at the en-
trance in 7 to 8 fathoms, mud, with North Point in line with Double Islet Point,
bearing N.W. by W. J W., 3 cables from the latter.

NaM Biver flows into the N.E. comer of Nass Bay, but the entrance is
obstructed by a bar with only 9 ft. on it at low water. From its mouth a
sand-flat, dry at low water, extends towards the mouth of Iceberg Bay.
Within the river, the navigation is difficult and dangerous ; it has been
ascended by a steamer more than 25 miles, and is used by small coasters at
half flood, the channel at low water being barely available for large canoes.
In severe winters it is reported to freeze over, down to its mouth. Its muddy
water may be distinguished flowing down Portland Inlet. It is believed that the
region it waters is rich in gold. / 1 its entrance, abreast Fort Point, the river
is li mile wide ; thence it runs E.N.E. for 7 miles; and N.N.E. for 7 miles,
to abreast the Nass villages. It continues in a N.E. direction for 25 milei

fiWtlsn COLUMfiU.

1, ,

I ■ '

fi'

beyond the lower Nass villages, and there divide*. KilawalaJu village, *he
head of canoe navigation, is situated on the N.W. branch, 40 miles from the
lower Nass villages.

The lower Nass villages are three in number, the population being about
500 in 1868. The Hudson Bay Company's trading store lies on the western
shore, about 1 mile below the middle village. The Houlihan, Oulachan, or
Candle fish, from which a nutritious oil is obtained, the principal sustenance
of the Indians, is caught in the river in great numbers during the spring.

Two salmon canneries, a saw-mill, store, two missionary stations, and several
Indian villages are situated along the stream. The climate is favourable to thw
growth of fruit, cereals, and root crops near the coast. — The Wett Short.

OBSEBYATORT INLET {Kit-Sah-Wall), northward of Nass Bay, is
generally speaking similar to the other inlets. At its entrance it is 1^ mile
wide, and thence runs in a general northerly direction for about 12 miles,
thence N. by W. for 4 miles, and widens to 3 miles abreast Salmon Cove.

Salmon Coye is 20 miles above Point Bamsden, and on the western shore
of Observatory Inlet. It affords good anchorage, but in deep water, and every
convenience. Here Vancouver's vessel remained for some time, in July, 1793;
and here he placed his observatory, from which circumstance the name of the
inlet is derived. A very great abundance of salmon were taken here, up a
very fine run of fresh water flowing into the cove; but they were small,
insipid, of a very inferior kind, partaking in no degree of the flavour of
European salmon. A sand-flat extends 2 cables off the mouth of the cove.

The latitude of the observatory was deduced as 55" 15' 34", long, (corrected)
129* 52' 30". High water at l** 8" after the moon passes the meridian, and the
tide generally rose about 6 feet.

Richard Point, the North point of Salmon Cove, is a long wooded projec-
tion, northward of which the inlet widens to 4 miles, but is obstructed at
6 or 6 miles distant by several islands and rocks. Brooke Island, 2} mileb
long, is low, narrow, and wooded. Its South extreme lies 4 miles northward
of Richard Point. Several patches of rock, which uncover, extend 5 cables
northward of the island. Paddy Passage, eastward of Brooke Island, is
6 cables wide, but near its northern end the navigable channel is barely
2 cables wide.

Frank Point, 6 miles N. by W. of Richard Point, and 1^ mile from the
western shore of Brooke Island, is low and wooded ; northward of it the
western shores are much broken, with several deep bays, in one of which, at
4 miles northward of the point, is the Xschwan salmon fishery.

Laroom Island, at the mouth of Hastings Arm, is about 5 miles long, with
an average breadth of 5 cables; its South extreme lies 6 cables north-westward
of Brooke Island. The island is flat, wooded, and comparatively low, and at
itf S.W. end it an extensive lagoon. The channel westward of the North end

OBSERVATORY INLET— PORTLAND CANAL.

SAS

of Lnrcom Island, is obttructed by islets and rocks, and is only aTailable
for boats.

Hastings Arm extends about 15 miles N.W. | N. from the S.E. end of
Larcom Island, and is from 5 to 10 cables wide. The water is deep, with no
known anchorage ground.

Alice Arm, the eastern branch of Observatory Inlet runs in a northerly
direction 3 miles, N.E. 3 miles, E. by N. 4 miles, and N. by E. 3 miles, ter-
minating in the usual wooded swamp, with a large stream flowing through it.
Its entrance is obstructed by Ltddle Itland, a small wooded island, which
divides it into two channels 3 cables wide. The arm varies in width from
6 cables to 2 miles, the latter being at the head. Perry Bay, on the eastern
shore of the entrance, is 2^ cables wide, and extends nearly a mile southward,
with depths of 14 and IS fathoms, mud bottom, in mid-channel. Off its
western entrance point lies Sophy I$Ut, and at the head of the bay is the
Muckthwanne salmon fishery.

PORTLAND CANAL (so named from the noble family of BentincI )
diverges from Point Ramsden, in a N.W. direction, for about 6 miles ; thence
it trends North 13 miles farther, and from thence to its head the bearing is
N.W. by N. 42 miles, the canal trending westward of this line. It terminates
in low marshy land, in lat. 55° 56', 80 miles from its entrance in Chatham
Sound. The shores of this inlet are nearly straight, and from 1 to 1^ mile
apart, composed mostly of high rocky cliffs, covered with pine and cedar trees
to a considerable height ; but the interior country is a compact body of high
barren mountains, covered with snow. The water is deep, and the anchorages
few and indifferent. As the surveying party ascended, salmon in abuudauco
were leaping in all directions.

Portland Canal is the boundary between the British possessions and the
Alaska territory of the United States ; it is only frequented by the Hudson's
Bay Company's officers in their steam-vessel for the purposes of occasional
trade with the natives. The continental shore to the northward belonged to
Russia, and was ceded, by purchase, to the United States in 1867, as detailed
in the next chapter.

Ramsden Point is described on p. 562. Dogfish Say, on the eastern shore,
about 3t^ miles from the point, is occupied by a sand -flat, and is useless as un
anchorage. The Indians catch large halibut off this bay. Tree Point, on the
western shore, 4 J miles from Portland Point, the South entrance point, is low
and wooded. A reef extends 5 cables northward of it.

Tree Point is the North extreme of Pearse Island, and westward of it is the
entrance of a channel leading to Tongas Passage. This channel runs parallel
with the direction of the main inlet, and gradually decreases in width south*
westward, continuing 13 miles from its N.E. entrance to an opening to the
S.E. into the main channel. Pursuing the same direction, it enters much
broken land, intersected by arms, forming an island about 10 miles in circuitf

566

BRITISH COLUMBIA.

to the N.E. of which it an arm ninning in a N.E. direotioni ending in low,
ateep, rocky shores.

Spit Point, on the eastern shore, is the turning point into the northern
reach. Between it and Dogfish Baj several small wooded islets lie close to
the shore, and a tongue of sand, which uncovers, extends 3 cables S.W. of the
point. Rttf Itland lies on the western shore, 1^ mile W.S.W. of Spit Point ;
a reef extends 2 cables S.E. of it. Two small bays lie under Reef Island, in
which a boat may find shelter.

Leading Point is a high, bold point, on the western shore, lying North, 2^
miles from Reef Island. A ledge of rocks, which uncover, extends 2 cables
from Dickens Point, which lies on the eastern shore, 4 cables from Spit Point.
SandJIy Bay, on the western shore, abreast Dickens Point, is nearly occupied
by a sand-flat, and is therefore lueless as an anchorage. Stopford Point, bold
and conspicuous, lies on the eastern shore, 3^ miles from Dickens Point.

Halibnt Bay, on the western shore, 4 miles from Sandfly Bay, is 5 cables
wide, and extends 1} mile to N.W. by W. to an extensive swamp, through
which three large streams flow. Off the South point lie a cluster of black rocky
islets. The only known anchorage in Portland Canal will be found in Halibut
Bay, in mid-channel, 3 cables within the entrance, in 6 to 10 fathoms, mud.
Crott Islet, a small wooded islet, connected with the shore, lies close north-
ward of Halibut Bay ; a rude wooden cross was found on it.

Logan Point lies on the eastern shore, 3| miles from Stopford Point ; a con-
spicuous saddle-shaped mountain, 4,800 ft. high, lies 3 miles S.E. of it. Camp
Point, on the western shore, is wooded, bold, and precipitous ; the channel
here turns to W.N.W.

Centre Island, nearly in mid-channel, abreast Camp Point, is 400 yards
long North and South, with some stunted brush upon it, and has a ledge of
rocks extending 2 cables northward of it. It is recommended to use the
channel westward of the island. A large stream flows through Barclay
Valley, abreast Centre Island. Salmon Cove, in Observatory Inlet, is here about
4 miles distant.

Three conspicuous landslips are seen on the mountains South of Landslip
Point, on the eastern shore, 2 miles northward of Centre Island. Bluff Point,
on the eastern shore, 2 miles from Landslip Point, terminates in a high, bold
bluff. Breezy Point, on the western shore, 3^ miles from Camp Point, is con-
spicuous.

Tombstone Bay, on the western shore, 3 miles N.W. by N. from Breezy
Point, is 3 cables wide at its entrance, and occupied by a sand-flat. It extends
1 mile to the mouth of a river, in which trout is plentiful. On the North side
of the valley, Dome Peak, with a snow-clad summit, rises to the height of
6,500 ft. Berries are found in abundance. The bay was named from a rude
tombstone being found near the remains of one of the occupants of a village,
which onoe existed \xvn.

PORTLAND CANAL— BEAR RIVER.

567

Maple Point, on the eastern shore, 3 miles from Bluff Point, is named from
the trees upon it. Northward of the point is a large stream, fronted by a
sand-flat. Swamp Point, through which a river flows, lies 3 miles N.W. ^ W.
from Maple Point, and has a sandspit extending 5 cables southward of it.
Piria Point, 2 miles N.W. by W. from Swamp Point, is high, bold, and
conspicuous.

Bay Islet, on the eastern shore, 7 miles from Pirie Point, is wooded, and
connected with the shore. In August, 1868, the temperature of the surface
water here was 33°, and it was fresh. Oreen Itlett, two small wooded islets,
on the eastern shore, lie 2 miles from Bay Islet. Close northward of them a
large stream enters the canal. Slab Point, on the opposite side, terminates in
a high, smooth, slate-coloured cliff.

Blue Point, on the eastern shore, 5} miles from Green Islets, terminates in
high, bold cliffs, of a purple blue colour. Two large streams flow through
the valley South of it, with a sandspit extending 2 cables off their mouths.
Cliff Point, on the opposite side, terminates in high white cliffs. Verdure Point,
4 miles N.W. by N. from Cliff Point, is conspicuous when the maples on it
are in leaf. Midway between Cliff and Verdure Points is a large stream.
Landslip Point, 1 mile N.W. by N. from Verdure Point, has a high landslip
over it.

Round Point, 6 miles from Blue Point, is the turning point, on the eastern
shore, into the northern reach of Portland Canal. Seal Rocks, 2 cables off the
western shore, 3 miles northward of Bound Point, are of small extent, the
highest being 6 ft. above high water. There is a large stream 1 mile south-
ward of the rocks.

Marmot River, on the eastern shore, 2^ miles from the mouth of Bear
River, flows through an extensive valley, and a sandspit extends 3 cables off
its mouth. At the head of the valley are three conspicuous peaks, 4,000 to
5,000 ft. high.

Salmon River, on the western shore, 1^ mile from Bear River, is separated
from that river by a range of bare mountains, 4,000 to 5,000 ft. high, named
Reverdy Johnson Mountains. It is a stream of considerable size. In 1868
the surveyors found a party of about 200 natives here, engaged in fishing.
They were very civil, and were wonderfully dexterous in managing their
canoes.

Bear River flows between high mountains, through an extensive wooded
valley and flat, at the head of Portland Canal, and divides near its mouth into
8everal streams. The Observation Spot, at the wooded high-water mark of
the point near the centre of the mouth of Bear River, is in lat. 55° 56' 3" N.,
long. 130° 3' 27" W. The river rises 10 miles inland, at the foot of Disraeli
Mountains, the highest peak of which is a snow-clad pinnacle, 7,000 ft. high.
The Bear and Salmon Rivers have a mud-flat extending across their
mouths, rendering communication, even by canoes, dilEcult at low water.

569

QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS.

The edge of the bank u very iteep, and anchorage waa unauooeaaAillj
■earohed for.

Tidtt. — It is high water at the head of Portland Oanal, on tall and change,
at 1^ 30"; apring riae from 23 to 30 ft. In August, 1868, a current of about
H mile an hour was observed, setting down the canal, to 25 miles below Bear
Biver.

flSOATE STRAIT divides Queen Charlotte Islands from the coast just de-
scribed. In its 8.E. part the water is deep. From Skidegate across to within
10 miles of the mainland, in a N.E. direction, the depths are from 8 to 25
fathoms ; in some coses, growing kelp was passed through by the surveying
vessel Beavtr, 1866, in 8 and 13 fathoms. In lat. 53° 26' N., long. 131° 6' W.,
a shoal has been reported, but its position is doubtful. The northern part of
the strait between Rose Spit and Stephens Island, its narrowest part, is
28 miles wide. The tides are described at the end of this chapter.

QUEEH OHABLOTTE I8LAHDS.

One of the most important features of this region, as yet but little known
and undeveloped, is the extensive archipelago, named Queen Churlotte Islands,
which is imperfectly described as follows.

This land was discovered nearly at the same period by the navigators of two
nations. La P^rouse made the outer coast on August 10th, 1786, and followed
it from South to North, for 50 leagues, in the ensuing ten days. Capt. Lowrie,
in the Snow, Capt. Cook and Capt. Ouise, in the Experiment, sailed from
Nootka on July 27th in the same year, and made the land in question soon
afterwards, though the day itself is not now known. Thus the honour of
discovery belongs to both the English and French. The name by which it is
nov- known is derived from the vessel in which Capt. Dixon made it in the
year following, but only assumed that it was an island from conjecture, as it
was not proved to be such till Capt. Douglas, in the IpMgenia, sailed through
the strait which divides it from the continent of America. It has also been
called Waihington Iiland, by Ingraham. Dixon Channel, which runs in
between Queen Charlotte Islands and the Prince of Wales Archipelago, to the
North of it, was discovered, perhaps, by Ensign Juan Perez, in 1774. It was
next seen by Dixon, on July 1st, 1786, though he himself acknowledges that
Capt. Douglas was the first who sailed through it. He then sailed nearly
round the island, afterwards repairing to Nootka Sound. The eastern
coast of the island was also examined and traded on by Capt. Duncan, in the
Princess Royal, in 1787 ; after doing so he proceeded to the eastward to some
other islands, which he named the Princess Royal Islands (which have been
before described), but which have been supposed to be identical with the

ap
an|
po
trd

171

in I
bel
of I

QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDb.

060

Arohipelugo of San Lazaro of De Fonta, prcvioiuly oonaidcrod to b«
apocryphal. A part of the features of this latter wore examined by Duncan,
and he anchored in nineteen of ita harbours, not without being frequently ox*
posed to the danger of losing his Tessel, but he was indemnified by an amplfl
trade in furs.

The outer or western coast only was cursorily examined by Vancouver In
1704, and the North side was sailed along by Capt. D. Jacinto Caamano
in 1701. That it consisted of several islands instead of one, as had usually
been considered, was inferred by Dixon, or rather by Beresford, who wrote part
of his voyage in 1787.

Thus our knowledge remained until quite a recent period, although it was
regularly visited by traders. But when the adjacent countries became the
scene of much interest from the discoveries of gold and coal, this group was
also visit3d with the same object, and in 1853, H.M.S. Virago went around
them, and to Mr. Qeo. H. Inskip, ll.N., and the officers of others of Her
Majesty's ships which have visited various parts of the islands since that time,
we owe some of the ensuing nautical description. It was examined in some
parts, when gold was reported,* by Mr. Downie in July, 1859.

A more complete examir tion of the geology and natural history of the
group was made by Robcii Brown, Esq., F.R.O.S., in 1866, and from hia
paper to the Royal Qeogrnphical Society in 1 869, we also have derived some
information.

In 1878, Dr. G. M. Dawson, under the direction of the Oeological Survey
of Canada, made a partial examination of these islands, both topographical and
geological, and his valuable and interesting Report was published in 1880, in
the Report of the Geological Survey of Canada, 1878-9, thus adding much to
our previous knowledge of the group. He states that, with the exception of
minerals, it would appear that the fisheries and forests of these islands will, at
present, constitute their chief claim to attention. We are indebted to this
Report for the greater part of the ensuing description of the eastern ond
northern coasts.

Natives. — ^The natives of Queen Charlotte Islands, the Haida Indians, ore a
finer race than the Vancouver or coast Ir iians, and although very dirty, are
much cleaner in their personal appearance. They have a much fairer com-
plexion, some of them almost resembling Europeans in their features. They
ore very skilful in the use of their cunoes, making long voyages in them to
Sitka, Port Simpson, Victoria, &c. In 1841 they were estimated to number
about 8,300, but since their contact with Europeans they have been much

* There was a tradition that a Sandwich Islander, in the employ of the Hudson's Bay
Company, while skinning a doer sold by an Indian, found that it had been shot with a
nugget of gold. — -R. Brown, Esq.

North Pacific. 4 I>

C70

QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS.

reduced in numbera by disease, tbe population being estimated at between
1,700 and 2,000 in 1878. The possession of slaves is allowed, and there are
several of '^h.is unfortunate class amongst them; their owners are not held
responsible for their manner of treating them, which is stated to be frequently
very cruel.

The whole of the islands are portioned off amongst the different tribes and
families, and as they have very strict notions of the rights of property, the
acquisition of land is very difHcult for settlers. The permanent villages are
generally situated with regard to easy access to the fisheries, and the houses
have curiously carved wooden pillars in front of them. Fish forms the chief
article uf food, the seas here swarming with various sorts, as halibut, salmon,
herrings, pollock, cod, &c. From April to October the shell-fish are reputed
by the natives to be poisonous. At Skidegatc there is a factory for extracting
oil from the livers of a species of dog-fish. Immense flocks uf wild geese and
ducks at times visit the islands. Potatoes grow in abundance in most parts,
and thrive exceedingly well, forming an important article of food among the
natives. These are all to be bought either for money, strong cotton shirts,
cotton dresses, plain cotton, knives, tobacco, mother of pearl jacket-buttons
for ornamenting thcii" blankets, or any of the articles commonly bartered
among savages. The blanket is the recognized currency among the natives,
the unit of value being one worth a little over li dollar.

Coal is found at Skidcgate Inlet and Massct Harbour, that found at the
former being similar to anthracite, and at the latter it resembles canncl coal.
Copper deposits exist at various places, and have been worked. Gold has
also been found in considerable quantities.

Climate. — Though situated so far North, the climate of the Queen Charlotte
Islands, from their insular position, is much milder than that of the mainland.
Some men who wintered upon them described the temperature as being
moderate, little snow, and a great deal of rain. Indeed, all North of Fraser
llivcr the climate is very moist. At Sitka it rains almost continuously, the
average rainfall amounting to nearly 89 inches per annum. When I arrived,
on 1st of April, all the snow had vanished off the low lands, and the weather
was mild and pleasant. Mosquitoes were abundant, and towards the end
of the month humming-birds had begim to make their appearance. —
{R. Brown.)

South-east winds are prevalent, and are almost invariably accompanied with
thick rain ; those from the opposite quarter generally bring fine weather.

The heaviest rainfall is, however, local, taking place on the western moun-
tainous axis. It may often be noted that while heavy rain is falling on the
mountains the sky i comparatively clear over the strait to the eastward. The
general remarks on Winds given for the coast to the southward (see pp. 390-2)
apply almost equally well to those of Queen Charlotte Islands), so far as the

\ \

CAi'E ST. JAMES.

571

observations made in their vicinity show. Strong tidal currents prevail in the
waters surmundiug the islands. — Mr, G. M. Dawson.

0£N£B<^ REMARKS.— The following sailing directions for the Queen
Charlotte Islands commence at Cape St. James, their southern extreme, and
from thence proceed along their eastern side, named Hecate Strait ; round
Rose Spit, their north-eastern point ; along the northern shore through I>ixon
Entrance or Parry Chaunel ; and back to Cape St. James, by the Pacific or
western side.

The Queen Charlotte Islands consist of three principal islani.^, together
with several smaller ones, and are situated between lat. 51° 50' and 54° 15' N.,
and long. 130° 55' and 133° 10' W. The channels separating the |) -incipal
islands are, Houston Stewart Channel, running between Prevost T;jl(ind (the
southernmost), and Moresby Island to the northward of it; ani Skidegate
Channel which separates Moresby Island from Graham Island (the northern-
most).

The islands may be regarded as a partly subrn^rgod mountain range, being
a continuation northward of that of Vancouver Island. A line drawn from
their southern extremity to their N.W. point has a bearing of N.W. J W.,
and this may be taken as the direction of the mountain axis. The extreme
length from point to point is 136 miles; ihe greatest width 52 miles. The
highest and most rugged part of the mountain axis is in lat. 52'^ 30', where
many peaks bear considerable patches of perennial snow, and rise to altitudes
probably surpassing 5,000 ft. — Mr. G. M. Dawson.

■ Between the South extremity and Skidegate Inlet, the East coast is much
indented by inlets, generally having bold rocky shores, and forming numerous
islnnds. The West coast, which is much more precipitous and rugged than
the eastern shore, has not yet been much examined.

CAPE ST. JAMES was so named by Mr. Dixon from the common circum-
stance of the saint's day on which it was first seen, 1787. It is the southern
extremity of an island about a mile in diameter, and 1,000 ft. high, ito southern
port being a white clifi", about 180 ft. high. In approaching Cupe St.
James from the southward, the first laud that will be seen (if it is clear) is
the highest port of Prevost Island, about 2,000 ft., at the back of Cape
St. James.

A chain of rocky islets and rocks, with vertical sides, named Kerouart Islets
by La Perouse, extend 3J miles south-eastward of the cape, and as it is
reported that a sunken ledge extinds nearly 5 miles off it, precaution is
necessary in approaching this part of the coast. Mr. Gray, in the Columbia,
informed Vancouver that he had struck and received some material damago
upon a sunken rock, which he represented as lying ai a much greater distance
than the above, though nearly in the same line of direction. With Cape St.
James bearing W. by S. J S. about 3 J miles, and the outermost rock above
water S.W. ^ S., Mr. Inskip had 90 fiuhoms. As seen from the N.E. thcso

E,(.VVJ

> /!,

ii f

i I

572

QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISL,\NDS.

islets appear to form three groups, those lying close to the cape being about
180 ft. high, and the outer ones about 100 ft. high.

FEEVOST IST.ANB is about 12 miles long North and South, its eastern
and western coasts being bold. Between Cape St. James and East Point, a
well-defined headland 12 miles northward, the East coast is indented by
two bays or inlets, the southern apparently inconsiderable ; Luxana Bay, the
northern one, is probably 3 or 4 miles in depth. After rounding East Point
the eastern entrance to Houston Stewart Channel will open out, the coast
between this point and Moore Head, on the South side of the entrance, a
distance of 6 or 7 miles to N.W., being much broken, with several small islets
lying off it, and one round thickly- wooded and conspicuous island, 150 ft. high,
a good guide for the entrance of the channel.

HOUSTON STEWABT CHANNEL trends 2^ miles from Moore Feint to
Hornby Point, and thence 3 miles S.W. to its western entrance. At about 4
miles from the eastern entrance there is a depth of 90 fathoms, and the water
gradually shoals to 20 fathoms to within a mile of it ; thence the soundings
are very irregular, varying from 31) to 7 fathoms. In the entrance, which is
about a mile wide, there is 20 fathoms water. A strong tide iiins through the
channel.

The country around this locality is mountainous and thickly wooded ; but
the timber is smaller, and less valuable than that in the magnificent forests of
Vancouver Island. The soil is poor, but there are indications of copper in
different places. The sea otter, the fur of which fetches very high prices in
China, are (or were) numerous.

Within the northern point {Forsyth Point), and on the saire side, is a snug
bay, bordered by a sandy beach, at one-third of a mile off which there is
secure anchorage in 16 fathoms. At a quarter of a mile 'aside Forsyth Point,
and a little to the northward of the line of direction of the channel, is a rocky
patch with kelp, dry at low water springs ; a vessel therefore should not haul
to the northward too soon after entering. On the southern side are some
small wooded islands, here and there fringed with o\ dying pat'jhes of kelp,
which latter should always be avoided. At IJ mile W.S.V/. from Forsyth
Point is Trevan Rock, lying nearly mid-channel, contracting the passage on
its northern side to rather less than half a mile. Eastward of Mien Island,
the largest of the islands, there is good anchorage in H fathoms, mud.

The southern arm of this channel is about 3 miles long, and three-quarters
of a mile wide, with several small islands (the Shangoi) at its southern end or
entrance from the Pacific. A vessel coming from the southward, and wishing
to go in by this entrance, when abreast of Cape St. James, should close the
land to 1^ mile, and follow it along for about 12 miles, which will lead right
into it. Two white stripes down the mountains, 6 or 7 miles to the N.W.,
form excellent landmarks. By leaving Anthony Island, the largest and outer
Shangoi Island, on the port hand, the channel will show itself. Flat liuik.

iing about

its eastern
/ Point, a
dented by
Say, the
last Point
the coast
ntrance, a
imall islets
iO ft. high.

Point to
U about 4
the water
soundings
I, which is
rough the

oded; but
forests of

copper in
prices in

> is a snug
li there is
pth Point,
is a rocky
1 not haul
are some
of kelp,
I Forsyth
issage on
'n Island,
I.

-quarters
rn end or
'■ wishing
jlose the
ad right
e N.W.,
ud outer
(ti liovk.

HOUSTON STEWART CHANNEL— SKINCUTTLK INLET. 573

50 ft. high, which should be kept on the port hand, will form a good guide.
Anthony Island is 200 ft. high, with white cliffs, and off its southern end an
extensive ledge of rooks projects to the S.W. On the inner side of the island
is Ninttintt, an Indian village ; the natives are stated to be very wild.
Lotucoone, on the North side of the channel, just within Anthony Island, is
■aid to be a good harbour.

Bose Harbour, the northern arm of Houston Stewart Channel, is seciu-e
and capacious, running up in a northerly direction for 3 miles from its junction
with the channel, and is a continuation, in nearly a straight line with the
western portion of it. It is about three-quarters of a mile wide, and anchorage
will be found in 6 to 15 fathoms, but there is kelp and shoal water along its
eastern shore. The basin at its head is full of islets and rocks, and should not
be entered ; a sti-eam, named Sedmond River, enters the western side of this
basin, and the eastern side is only separated from Carpenter Bay by a narrow
isthmus.

About 3 miles to the northward of the eastern entrance to Houston Stewart
Channel, and at about 2 miles off the coast, are Danger Rocks, a ledge of rooks
lying a little above water ; the sea breaks violently over them, and for a con-
siderable distance around.

MORESBT ISLAND, the centre of the three principal islands, is 72 miles
long, but in places is only from 1^ to 2 miles in breadth. Near its centre aro
the San Cristoval Mountains, upwards of 5,000 ft. in height.

CABFENTEB BAT, at the S.E. end of Moresby Island, is a little over
2 miles wide, and runs westward about 5 miles, ending in a narrow arm,
which receive*! two streams ; this arm is filled with islets and rocks, making it
unsafe even for small craft. The coast is like that of Houston Stewart
Channel. In June, 1878, there were many seals in the bay. On its South
side are two small bays, the western of which. South Cove, has in its head
good anchorage for a small vessel in 6 to 10 fathoms. It is sheltered by a
little rorky reef which runs out from its East side.

Rankine Islands lie 1^ to 2 miles N.E. of Iron Point, the North point of
Carpenter Bay. Collison Bay, situated midway between the latter and
Skincuttle Inlet, is about If mile wide at its entrance, and has a probable
depth of 2 miles, running up into a narrow arm, which was not examined.
Several islet and rocks lie in its mouth, and it does not appear to be serviceable
as a harbour. Oull Rock, 10 ft. high, bears N.E. by E. i E., IJ mile from
iJi-luge Point, and about the same distance from the North point of Collison
Bay. Inner Low Rock lies S.S.E. from Gull Rock, and midway between it
and the shore.

SKINCUTTLE INLET is 5J miles deep in a S.W. direction, its entrance
being 4 miles wide, between Deluye Point on the South and Granite Point on
the North. The North side of the inlet is formed by Burnaby Island, and its
shores resemble those of other parts of the isluud» already described. The

i t ■
I' \i

%*y'

674

QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS.

' t

entrance is South of a chain of islands, called the Copper Islandu, lying
N.E. i E. and S.W. ^ W., on \rhich is a deposit of magnetic iron ore, with a
little copper pyrites. It is 1^ mile wide, bat should be used with caution as
there is reason to believe that a rock, sometimes bare, lies in it. The passage
to the North of Copper Islands is contracted. Bolkut Islands form a chain
about 2 miles long East and West, in the centre of the inlet.

Harriet Harbour, the first opening on the South side of the inlet, is 2 miles
westward of Deluge Point, <ind runs southward 1 mile, the entrance being
West of Harriet Island, at its mouth. To enter, keep nearer the West side
of the channel, and run some distance beyond the inner end of the island
before anchoring, to avoid the shoal bank off its point. The depth is about

8 fathoms, with good holdina; ground. At 1^ mile West of Harriet Harbour
is Huston Inlet, a wide inlet running E.S.E. about 4 miles, and approaching
the western side of Moresby Island to within about 1^ mile.

At the western end of Skincuttle Inlet, are three indentations, George Har-
bour being the southern. The northern, at the entrance of Burnaby Strait, is
Tangle Cove, a well-sheltered anchorage for a small vessel, but a shoal lies off
its mouth ; the entrance Is between a small island at its South side, and two
other little islets to the North, and in it lies a rock which uncovers. The
mountains at the head of the cove are steep, and probably 3,000 ft. in height.

On the South shore of Burnaby Island is a bay, with several small islands
across its mouth, which was not examined. Further East, near an abandoned
copper mine, are Blue Jay and Kingfisher Coves. Granite Point is a rather
remarkable whitish crag, nearly separated from the shore. Northward of this
point is a deep bay, with a high island in its mouth, llic coast of Burnaby
Island between Granite Point and Scudder Point, 5 miles to N.N.W.,
was not examined.

Burnaby Strait, connecting Skincuttle Inlet with Juan Perez Sound, is

9 miles in length, the southern portion for a distance of about 4 miles being
very narrow. It must be navigated with great caution as there are many
rocks. Dolomite Narrows, at 2J miles N.W. of the entrance, arc not more than
a quarter of a mile wide ; the channel is jrooked, and obstructed by rocks and
having only from 6 to 8 ft. at low tide. The tides, however, are not strong.
Just South of the narrows, on the West side, is the entrance of Bag Harbour,
expanding within to a basin nearly a mile in diameter. Near the East side of
the narrows, arc The Twitts, two conspicuous mountains about 1,500 ft. high.
Island Bag, at 1^ mile north-westward of the narrows, is probably too rocky
for a safe harbour.

Skaat Harbour, on the West side of the North entrance to Burnaby Strait,
is a bay 2f miles wide at its entrance, with a depth of about 3 miles, termi-
nating in a narrow inlet in its upper part. In its mouth lies Wanderer Island
and several smaller ones, the entrance, which is very narrow, being on the
South side. It has not been carefully examined, but would be likely to afford

JUAN PEREZ SOUND.

575

good anchorage, especially westward of Wanderer Island. On the South side
of the entrance are two small coves affording anchorage for a small vessel, but
with wide tidal flatk at their head.

Limettone Rock is a dangerous reef, bare only at low water, lying in mid-
channel, off the entrance to Skaat Harbour, and a mile to E. by S. ^ S. of
Centre Island; the eastern point of Wanderer Island in line with that of
Centre Island, leads over it.

All Alone Stone nnd Monument Rock form good marks to the northern
entrance of Burnaby Strait. Huxley Island, southward of them, is nearly
2 miles long North and South ; it is bold, and rises rapidly to a height ex-
ceeding 1,000 feet.

The North shore of Burnaby Island, 6f miles in extent N.E. and S.W., has
a few shallow bays, one of which, near the western end, is called Section
Cove ; the hills are estimated at 300 to 500 ft. in height. A considerable
width of low land stretches back to Seudder Point. Alder Island, near the
centre of this stretch of coast, is about half a mile in diameter, with probably
n good anchorage behind it, which should be approached from the North, as
Saw Reef runs out from the shore of Burnaby Island to the eastward, and
this part of the coast is broken and rocky, with large fields of kelp extend-
ing off it.

JUAN FEBEZ SOUND has, at its entrance between the North end of
Burnaby Island and Ramsay Island, a width of 8 miles. It thence runs 1 3 J
miles westward, giving off a number of smaller inlets and bays, none of which
seem to be well adapted for harbours, as the shores are bold and rocky, and
the water to all appearances too deep for anchorage. Vessels entering the
sound should pass southward of Ramsay Island ; the water is apparently deep
but it has not been sounded. It is continued in a W.N.W. direction by
Darwin Sound, leading to the upper ends of the inlets running westward from
Laskeek Bay.

Bischoff Islands, in the N.W. part of the sound, are low, but densely
wooded. There is sheltered anchorage for small craft bctv.een the two larger
islands, entered from the westward, and with much caution, being surrounded
by rocks and sunken reefs. Ramsay, Murehison, and Faraday Islands are
the largest of a group of islands forming ihi N.E. side of the sound, occupying
a space of about 8j^ miles eastward of Lyell Island, with numerous islets and
rocks between them. On the South side of Hot Spring Island, between
Ramsay and Murehison islands, is a hot spring, which is easily recognised by
a patch of green mossy sward. Between Hot Spring and House Islands, to
the N.E., is a good anchorage for small craft. To the N.N.W. of Murehison
I aa:'d a chain of islets extends about 4 miles, and are named Tar Islands, as
the Indians report that on one of them bituminous matter is found. These
islands are only approximately placed on the chart.

Lyell Island, on the North side of Juan Perez Sound, is about 15 miles in

•"n

..y '^'^>m

Wt\^-.£Ji

^;^iJ^!

676

QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS.

length East and West, and is separated from Moresby Island by Darwin
Sound. It is densely wooded and hilly, attaining towards the centre a height
probably exceeding 1,000 ft. A-tli Inlet, on the North side, has not been
examined, but does not appear to be a good harbour. About 3 to 4 miles
E.N.E. from the N.E. point of Lyell Island is Halibut Bank, with 23 fathoms
on it, brown sand bottom.

Darwin Sound is 12 miles in length N.W. by W. and S.E. by E. ; it is
irregular in width, but is a fine navigable channel. In entering from the
southward. Shuttle Island, low and rocky, should be left on the port hand.
A mile beyond the North end of Shuttle Island, and in mid-channel, is a low
rock, with another, bare only at low water, a short distance to the North of it.
The flood tide sets up the sound from the southward, the tidal streams running
at the rate of about 2 knots when strongest.

The S.W. side of Darwin Sound for 4 miles from the South entrance is
rocky and broken, with several coves and inlets. Bigsby Inlet then runs in
2^ miles in a westerly direction, a gloomy chasm, scarcely half a mile in width,
and surrounded by mountains, probably as high as any in the islapds, rising
steeply from the water. At 1^ mile northward of Shuttle Island is Echo
Harbour. The entrance looks like a shallow cove, into which Mr. Dawson
entered to look for anchorage, and was surprised to find the passage into the
harbour, running southward about a mile, and surrounded by high hills, which
towards its head rise to rugged mountains. The entrance has a depth of
10 fathoms in it ; the sides then approach, leaving a channel scarcely 300
yards wide. In the harbour the depth is everywhere about 15 fathoms,
decreasing toward the flat at the head. The bottom is soft mud, and excellent
holding ground.

At 2 miles West of the entrance to Echo Harbour, the shore line falls back
forming Klun-Kwoi Bay, which runs up in several arms, its head approaching
Tasoo Harbour to within a couple of miles. The mountains appear to culmi-
nate here, the highest peaks being probably 5,000 ft. or raoro in altitude.
Crescent Inlet extends N.W. from the head of Darwin Sound, and then turns
gradually to a direction nearly S.W., and is over 4 miles in length, with steep
mountains and wooded sides. Red Top Mountain, about 3,000 ft. high, is a
conspicuous peak, rising on the North side of the inlet, at the angle of the
bend.

J \SK£EX BAY is the wide indentation between the N.E. extreme of
I A '.-J Iskad and Vertical Point, the S.E. point of Louise Island, 10 miles to
t!i '■ ^T W. From Laskeek Bay four large inlets run westward. Richardson
Inlni, the southernmost, is about 11 miles in length W.S.W. and E.N.E.,
with an average breadth of 1^ mile, its shores being moderately bold. The
southern side is formed by Lyell Island; the northern by Kun-ga, Tan-oo, and
Inner Islands. Kun-ga Island, about 1,500 ft. high, forms a good mark for
the entrance ; a low rocky reef extends some distance eastward of its outer

LASKEEK BAY— LOUISE ISLAND.

677

point, and another off its South shore. Tan-oo and Inner Islands are also
bold, rising to rounded hills of about 800 ft. Near Dog Island, 5 miles within
the entrance, are several small islets and rocks ; and at about 3^ miles
8.W. by W. of it, on the South side of the inlet, is a cove, where a small
vessel can find a convenient anchorage. The channels between Kun-ga and
Tan-oo and the latter and Inner Islands are probably deep ; several rocks and
patches of kelp lie off the East end of Tan-oo. The tide runs through this
passage with considerable strength, and it is unsuited as an approach to Echo
Harbour.

Laskeek or Klue village, on the eastern extremity of Tan-oo Island, is one of
the most populous in the islands. H.M.S. Alert anchored off here in 11
fathoms, about 2 cables East of the village, but this anchorage is not a
good one, being exposed to the N.W. and S.E. winds, and steep dose-to. The
S.W. end of Richardson Inlet is only about a quarter of a mile wide, and ob-
structed by a small island and several rocks.

Logan Inlet is about 7 miles in length, and nearly parallel to Richardson
Inlet, with Floiver Pot Islet, covered with trees, in its mouth. It constitutes
a fine navigable channel, the best approach to Echo Harbour. Vessels should
pass North of Flower Pot Island, and keep in mid-channel. Ti-tul Islet,
northward of Kun-ga Island, has low limestone cliffs.

Dana Inlet, northward of Logan Inlet, runs about S.W. by W. nearly
8 miles, with bold shores. In its mouth is Helmet Islet, high and rocky, with
another close southward o^ it; this must not be mistaken for Flower Pot
Island, in the mouth of Logan Inlet. At its western end Dana Inlet turns to
W.N.W., communicating by a narrow but apparently deep passage with
Selwyn Inlet, and thus insulating Tal-un-kwan Island. This island is 8 miles
long, and 2 miles broad ; the hills are rounded, and from 800 to 900 ft. high.

Selivyn Inlet is nearly parallel to Dana Inlet, and about 10 miles in length;
near its head it turns to N.W. by N., forming at high water a nari'ow
passage for canoes into the upper par: of Cumshewa Inlet, and insulating
Louise Island. Entrance Islet lies off the North entrance point of the inlet,
with a low rock about a mile eastward of it. After giving these islets a wide
berth, a vesrel should keep the North shore on board for a distance of 5 miles,
until the entrance of Eock-fish Harbour is reached. Rock-Jish Harbour is
formed by a boot-shaped projection of low land, at the angle of Selwyn Inlet.
It runs to W.S.W. for about IJ mile, with a width of half a mile, and an
average depth of 15 fathoms. It is a secure and well-sheltered anchorage,
more easily entered than Cumshewa Harbour.

Reef Island and Low Islands lie in the outer part of Laskeek Bay, their
position on the chart being uncertain. The southern and first-numed is steep,
and a reef runs off about half a mile southward of it.

Louise Island, separating Selwyn Inlet from Cumshewa Harbour, is about
North Pacific, 4 a

II,

111

678

QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS.

15 miles long East and West, and 8 miles broad. The mountains are from 3,000
to 4,500 ft. high, with snow in abundance. From Selwyn Inlet the East coast
runs N. by E. 8 miles, to Cumshewa Inlet, with several small open bays.
Vertical Point projects about halfway along this stretch of shore, and is
remarkable from the beds of grey limestone of which it is composed. North
of it are the two Limestone Islets, behind which the ebb tide forms a race.
Skedans Bay, northward of these islets, is strewn with sunken rocks, and
should on no account be entered by vessels. A large stream enters its head,
at some distance inland forming a high waterfall. Skedans village is at the
bead of a cove indenting the South side of a narrow isthmus, connecting two
remarkable nipple-shaped hills with the shore. Between this peninsula and
the Skedans Islands, the tide forms a race. These islands are low and
covered with trees ; their position on the chart is only approximate.

CUMSHEWA INLET runs about 15 miles to W.S.W., and differs, in the
low character of its northern shore, from the inlets to the South. There is
also more beach than in the southern inlets, and wide tide-flats. In the
entrance northward of Skedans Islands the depth is about 20 fathoms, shell
and gravel bottom. Off the North point of the entrance is Cumshewa Islet, a
barren rock, whence the Cumshewa Hocks excjnd nearly 1^ mile to E.S.E.
Kin-gut Island, just within this point, was covered with dead trees, and can
be recognised easily.

At about a mile within the entrance, an extensiTe breakiiig shoal runs off
from the South shore to within about half a mile of the North shore ; the
passage in is through this channel, in which the depth is reported to be
7 and 8 fathoms, the tides running strongly through it. A few patches of the
shoal dry at low water, but the greater part is indicated only by the kelp,
which grows thickly on it during the summer.

Within the narrows, on the North shore, is McKay Cove, where a small
vessel may find 8 pretty secure anchorage. Cumshewa village lies about a
mile westward of McKay Cove ; a small rocky islet lies off it. The best
anchorage for a large vessel in Cumshewa Inlet is probably on the South side,
in about 6 fathoms, nearly opposite the peninsula westward of the village, and
abreast a stretch of low land at the entrance of a stream.

From Cumshewa Islet, the coast runs W.N.W. to Spit Point, the South
point of Skidegate Inlet, a distance of 17 mile3, and is indented by Gray and
Copper Bays. At Copper Bay, about 5 miles from Spit Point, is an abandoned
copper mine. The land is low, rising to a height of about 200 ft., and is
densely wooded. The projecting points are generally low and flat, and formed
of gravel deposits. With the change in the character of the land, the beach
becomes flat, and shoal water extends far off shore, the depths shoaling from
10 fathoms, at 3 miles off Cumshewa islet, to 6 and 7 fathoms at 7 miles off
Spit Point. Lieut. Boxer, H.M.S. Alert, says that Cape Chroustcheff, 2 miles

8KIDEGATE INLET AND CHANNEL.

679

southward of Spit Point, should not be passed nearer than 6 miles ; the oape
is low and dark-looking.

SKIDEOATE INLET and CHANlTBL separate Moresby Island from
Graham Island. The inlet or entrance to the channel was surveyed by Lieut.
Daniel Pender, R.N., in 1866. The harbour is very spacious, and communi-
cates with the Pacific southward of Cartwright Sound, near Point Buck, by
an intricate channel, only navigable for canoes a portion of the way through.

Skidegate Inlet runs in a southerly direction for about 9 miles from Bar
Rocks, and then contracts to a width of 1}^ mile between Image Point and the
South shore. Within this it opens widely, forming two expansions, separated
by Maude Island, the northern arm containing many islands and islets, of
which Lina Island is the largest. North-eastward of Lina Island is Bearskin
Bay, on the N.E. side of which there is anchorage in 12 fathoms, and from
thence the inlet trends 5 miles to the S.W., and then turns to W.N.W.,
forming Long Arm, the total length of the inlet from Bar Rocks to the head
of Long Arm being about 21 miles. The southern arm forms South Bay, in
which is South Island, its western side passing into Skidegate Channel and
thence to the Pacific.

The shores of Skidegate Inlet are not so bold as those of the inlets to the
South, and are generally fringed with a beach. Westward of Image Point
the land increases in height, culminating at Long Arm, where there are
several summits, 3,000 to 4,000 ft. high. The surrounding country is densely
wooded, and timber of magnificent growth is found, chiefly Menzies spruce,
and apparently well-suited for lumber.

Spit Point is low and woody, and composed of sand deposits, which, ex-
tending northward, form the bar across the entrance. The bar or spit has
from 1 to 3 fathoms water on it, sloping off" very gradually seaward, and
extends in a north-westerly direction for about 9^ miles, to within nearly 1 ^
mile of Lawn Point, the northern point of entrance. Bar Rocks, which do
not always break, lie on the outer edge of the spit ; the western one dries 6 ft.,
and lies N.W. J N., 6J miles from Spit Point ; the outer rock dries 1 foot,
and bears N.E. by E., 4 cables from the inner rock.

Lawn Point is generally green, and a hill 500 ft. high rises close westward
of it. The coast hence to S. by E. is flat for 10 miles to Village Bay, and was
covered with standing dead trees. Dead Tree Point, 3J miles southward of
Lawn Point, is a projecting part of the coast, but otherwise is not con-
spicuous. Village Islands form good marks for Skidegate Inlet ; the northern
one. Bare Islet, 125 ft. high, is almost bare, and the other. Tree Islet, having
trees upon it, is 153 ft. high. The village of Skidegate, nearly half a mile in
length, is situated in the bay fronted by Village Islands. Village Bay is
good stopping-place, with anchorage in 14 fathoms, between Bare Islet and
the beach. Should a S.E. gale spring up, good shelter will be found in
AUiford Bay.

^ 1

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I I

666

aUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS.

In the cove at Image Point, southward of Village Bny, some buildings have
been erected in connection with the dog-fish fishery. In 1883 the Skidegntc
Oil Company extracted 40,000 gallons of oil from the livers of about 400,000
dog-fish, which were caught by the Indians. This oil is stated to be superior
to any other kind as a lubricant, and is chiefly shipped to the United States.

Alliford Bay, on the South side of the entrance, is an excellent anchorage,
with good holding ground, in about 9 fathoms. Leading Island, forming the
western part of the bay, is 400 ft. high and appears round. The passage
between Flowery Islet, the outer islet, and the North point of the bay, should
not be used. Wood and water may be obtained here.

Anchor COYe, 10^ miles south-westward of Image Point, affords anchorage
in 6 fathoms. About a mile northward of the cove is Slate Chuck Brook, the
largest stream in Skidegate Inlet, so named from a quarry a few miles up it ,
from whence the Indians obtain the dark shaly material they use for carvin^^s.

Coal. — About a mile north-eastwurd of Anchor Cove is the now aband >ncd
Cowgitz coal mine,* on the sides of Mount Seymour, the working of which
was undertaken by a company formed in 1865. A tramway was constructed
to the coast, and much money expended, up to the abandonment of the works
in 1872. In 1869 about 800 tons were raised, and part shipped to Victoria.
In appearance the coal resembles anthracite, but the seam is irregular in
quality and thickness. Coal is also found in Saltspring Bay, to the S.E. of
Anchor Cove, and on the South side of Skidegate Passage.

Maude Island is nearly 4 miles long, S.W. and N.E., I^ mile broad, and
1,260 ft. high. On the West end the Indians belonging to Qold Harbour
have established a village.

Skidegate Channel runs from South Bay for 15 miles south-westward to the
Pacific, and about midway North Arm runs 2^ miles northward. From South
Bay to Log Point, a distance of 8} miles, the channel is contracted, particu-
larly in the East and West Narrows, the former in one part being only
200 ft. wide, and the latter 2 cables ; it can only be considered navigable for
boats or canoes. A small vessel might pass through, but the narrows must be
passed at slack water of high tide, so that both narrows cannot be got through
in one tide. The tides meet about the East Narrows, running with great
strength, probably 5 knots in several places. (See pp. 586-7).

Directions. — Approaching Skidegate Inlet the water should not be shoaled
under 6 fathoms at low water until the leading marks are on. A deep channel
into Skidegate Inlet may be found northward of Bar Rock spit, by steering
for Lawn Point bearing S.W. until within about a mile of the point, w>-3n a
general S.S.E. course may be steered, paying great attention to the soundings,

* Thii was fonnd by Capt. Torrens in 1869, but the party were nearly murdered by the
Indians. It was examined by Mr. Brown in 1866, and he says the coal has all the charac-
ter of anthracite, but altered and metamoi]ihoied by the presence of igneoui rock in a !•■
parkttble manneri

GRAHAM ISLAND.

6dl

as tkc northern pnrt of the chnnnol is narrow. Lieut. Miller, ILM.S. Amethytt,
1876, remarks, "From the N.E. Lawn Point makes like a bluff sloping towards
the North. Lorgc ships should bring it to bear S.W. and steer for it ; the water
will gradually shoal from 10 and 12 fathoms at 4 miles off, to 6 and 4^ fathoms
at about a mile from the point, when it suddenly deepens to 12 and 20
fathoms."

The West side of Leading Island, in line with the East side of Bare
Village Island, bearing South, leads northward of Bare Rocks, in 1>5 ft. at
low water. Coasters with local knowledge cross the spit in 3} fathoms, about
a mile South of Bnr Rocks (when they are visible), by keeping Dead Tree
Point bearing W.S.W.

It is high water in Skidegate Inlet, on full and change, at P ; springs rise
17 ft., neaps H feet.

OBAHAM ISLAND, the largest of the Queen Charlotte Islands, is 67
miles long with a maximum width of 52 miles. At its southern end, on the
North side of Skidegate Inlet, the land is very rugged and mountainous, with
many summits exceeding 3,000 and 4,000 ft. Beyond Skidegate the surface
becomes much less mountainous. To the northward lies a low, flat or gently
undulating, densely wooded country, seldom exceeding 300 ft. in elevation.

From Lawn Hill to Rose Point, the N.E. extreme of Graham Island, the
distance is about 48 miles to N. by W. The coast is straight and open, with
no harbour, the beach being gravelly or sandy. Dangerous flats, which have
not been examined, extending off the coast, should be given a berth of 6 or 7
miles, and the lead kept constantly going, the soundings varying from 9 to 11
fathoms.

For many miles northward of Lawn Hill, banks of clay and sand are found
along shore, and for about 17 miles northward of Tl-ell Biver these frequently
rise into cliffs 50 to 100 ft. in height. Northward of the cliffs the shore is
usually bordered by sandhills, covered with coarse grass, &c. This part of
the coast is also characterised by lagoons ; the largest opens at Cape Fifty
about 6 miles southward of Rose Point, and runs southward for some miles.
Its mouth forms a safe harbour for boats at high tide, but it is nearly dry at
low water. On some parts of the shore near Cape Fife magnetic iron sand is
abundant, with numerous " colours " of gold in it. There is anchorage off
the cape with off-shore winds ; but the lead must be most carefully attended.

Tl-ell Biver, a stream of some size, enters the sea at lOJ miles N.N.W. of
Lawn Point. Cape Ball (Kul-tow-sis), nearly 20 miles from Skidegate Bar,
is very conspicuous, having a remarkable white cliff on it, with lower cliffs on
either side ; it cannot be mistaken, for there is no other place like it between
Skidegate and Point Rose. The Indians report that at very low tide patches
of clay appear a long way off the cape. Capt. McNeill, of the Hudson Bay
Company's Service, states that he found a rook with 2 fathoms on it, lying
Rbout e miles East of Cape Ball.

■%i

IMwi

WB^

i-lOwB '

T^ln^V

iM.^^llK

''♦■'*^H

iiffi

aUEEN CHARLOttE ISLANDS.

B08B POINT, 80 named by DougTu in 1788, or Inviaibli Point, known to
the Indians as Nai-Koan (long nose), is a remarkable low promontory,
apparently formed by the meeting of the currents and wnve«. Where the
point becomes narrow and more exposed, it is clothed with small stunted
woods, which in turn give place to grass-covered sandhills. Beyond this the
narrow gravelly point is covered above high-water mark with heaps of
drifting sand, and great quantities of bleached timber. The npex of the point
is a narrow steep-sided gravelly bank, which runs out for a long distance at
low water. A dangerous spit runs off Rose Point in a N.E. direction, and is
reported to extend for a distance of nearly 5 miles. The point should, there-
fore, at all times be given a wide berth. Several vessels have been lost
here.

The shore between Boso Point and Masset Sound forms a large bay 22 miles
in width. With the exception of a few small rocky points, the sandy beach is
smooth ond regular, low sandhills generally bordering the woods, "^.e water
is shoal far off the shore, especially at the bottom of the bay, and on
approaching Masset Sound, where kelp forms wide fields at a great distance
from the beach. In the N.E. part of the bay there is anchorage with off-
shore winds.

Hi-ellen River, at 8 J miles S. by W. of Rose Point, is frequented by salmon
in the autumn ; its mouth forms a good boat harbour. On its West bank is Tow
Hill, an eminence remarkable in this low ct ^ry, facing the sea with a steep
cliff 200 ft. high. It is uncertain M'hether Tow K. - Voad low elevation a

short distance inland, near Cnpc Fife, is the same as the ^. ' ^'oon or Macroon
Hill of the old chart. Macroon Hill is described as a round-shaped hill,
300 or 400 ft. high, which, with Rose Point bearing W.S.W., distant 6 miles,
opens out clear of the land off which Rose Spit runs, but shows out so dis«
tinctly as to look almost like an island.

MASSET HABBOXTB is about 23 miles S.W. ^ S. from Poiiit F,->8e. lu
entrance is formed by a low point, with a ledge of rocks hali a mile oif it, and
covered with kelp, on the western side; and the point of ». i').ih, {Naiqu$z)
partly dry (the surf usually breaking the whole length of it) ou the eastern,
the passage between having an extensive bar. With the outer western point
bearing W. by N. 1 mile, there is 5 fathoms at low water ; from this position
the 30urse in is about S. by E. ^ E., the soi'ndings over the bar varying from
6 to 3 fathoms, for about 3 miles, to abreast of a village on the western shore,
a little more tlian a mile from what may be termed the inner or proper
entrance to the harbour; the water then suddenly deepens to 9 and 11
fathoms, the ehanne\ lying in the direction of the eastern point of what has
been called the inner entrance. Just inside, and round this point, is a pretty
bay, with a beach containing the principal village, named Ut-te-was, off the
centre of which there is anchorage in 10 fathoms, but the ebb tide runs very
fUoug. la 1878 thfe Hudson Bay Company had a post here, and the ChuroU

MASSET IIARnOUR-TSOO-SKATLI.

fi83

Missionary Society also hnd a itation, but the iDhabitantt are dccrenaing in
number. The company keep some cattle here.

The land in the vicinity of Mussct IIa>-bour is all low, no hills being visible,
and generally densely timbered with fine xpruce trees. At 3 miles up the
sound, a lagoon or arm runs off on the East side, and nearly opposite this, on
the West side, is Maait Island, from which the name of the inlet appears to
have been taken ; it is low und sandy, and a great part of the passage behind
it is dry at low water.

Manet Sound, from its entrance to the point at which it expands to Masset
Inlet, is 19 miles in length; it averages about a mile in width, and the depth
appears to vary from 10 to 12 fathoms. A number of little streams enter it. On
the eastern side, at 4) miles from the southern end of the sound, a narrow and
shallow passage runs off southward to the eastern part of Masset Inlet.

MaiBet Inlet. — At its southern end Masset Sound expands suddenly to a
great sheet of water, 17 miles in length East and West, and 5^ miles across
in its broadest part. This, to the northward and eastward, is bounded by
low wooded land ; and tu the West and South by hills, rising to mountains in
the distance ; even these, however, are comparatively rounded in form, and
probably exceed 1,500 ft. in height. The northern and southern shores are
often bordered by wide shoals ; the western half of the inlet is studded with
islands, and has four large bays or inlets on its southern side. The shores
here are steep, sloping do x at once into deep water. Many streams flow into
these inlets, the largest L ng probably the Ya-koun, which enters the S.E.
comer of Masset Inlet, in the bottom of a shoal bay. This stream formed a
portion of the disused route from Masset to Skidegate. The natives state that
in August the inlet abounds with salmon, halibut, geese, and ducks. Ain River,
on the northern side, is an important stream, said to flow out of a very large
lake, not far inland.

Tsoo-skatli. — On the South side of Masset Inlet, 5 miles from its eastern
extremity, is a narrow passage, the mouth of which is partly blocked by
islands, leading into a second great inlet called by the Indians Tsoo-skatli,
or " the belly of the rapid." Kelp grows abundantly in the channels, which
therefore cannot be very deep ; the tide here runs with great velocity,
especially at ebb, when in the western channel it forms a true rapid. The
inlet has deep water, is 9^ miles in length, and from 1 to 2 miles in width,
with many islands and islets in it. On the eastern side, 2^ miles from its
extremity, is Tow-us-tai-in, a remarkable hill with a steep cliff on one side.
Ma-min River, navigable by small canoes for several miles, joins Tsoo-skatli
Inlet at its East end.

Tides. — The rise of spring tides, at the entrance of Masset Sound, was
estimated at about 14 feet.

Between Masset and Virago Sound, which lies about 10 miles to the west-
ward, there is good anchorage in some places, in which a vessel might remain

1 ' t

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I I

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I i

084

QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS.

a night, instead of keeping under way, or cruising about with a S.E. wind,
and the weather thick. Tlie coast between these two places is everywhere
low and wooded, with occasional open grassy spaces. It differs from the
coast East of Masset, in being rocky or covered with boulders. The water is
shoal far offshore, with wide fields of kelp, necessitating caution in approach-
ing the shore.

VIRAGO SOUND, the entrance to Naden Harbour, is 3 J miles wide between
its outer points, Edensatv to the East and Naden to the West; and 2^ miles deep
to the narrow passage, which is 1^ mile long and about half a mile wide,
leading into the harbour. Outside the entrance of this passage are several
banks, formed probably by the sand, &c., washed down with the ebb, which
runs with considerable strength; the rise and fall of the tide is about 13 ft.
The narrowest part of the entrance is about half a wide.

The outer anchorage is sheltered from all winds to the southward of East
and West. With two wooded islets, on the West side of the entrance, bearing
W. i S. distant 1 mile, and the East point N.E. J E. 2 miles, the depth is
fi fathoms, sand and shells. The shores are low and fringed with kelp, but the
lea dwill be a safe guide, as the water shoals gradually towards the land. ITie
depth on the bar varies from 2^ to 4 fathoms. A vessel can always get
an Indian pilot by firing a gun and anchoring for a short time. The inner
anchorage, opposite Kuny village on the western side, just within the narrows
is in 10 fathoms, at about 2 or 3 cables offshore. This village has been nearly
abandoned for the new Ya~tza village on the coast, at about 4 J miles west-
ward of Virago Sound. Above Kung village a bank extends off the eastern
side of the narrows nearly halfway across, leaving a channel along the western
shore, with 7 to 10 fathoms in it.

Naden Harbour, — This capacious and land-locked harbour is about 4 miles
in length North and South, and 2 miles in width, with depths of 8 to 12
fathoms in it. Densely wooded low land borders the whole harbour. The
S.E. shore has wide tide-flats off it ; the N.W. shore is comparatively bold.
Njden River, entering the harbour at its S.E. corner, is probably the largest
river of Queen Charlotte Islands. It flows from a large lake, and at high
water a boat can proceed about 2 miles up. Stanley or Te-ha River, in the
S.W. corner, is reported to be navigable for boats. The spruce timber is
excellent, and the harbour is well adapted for saw mills and the export of
lumber.

From Naden Point, the general trend of the shore is W. by 8. for about 17
miles to Cape Knox, the N.W. extreme of Graham Island. The shore and
country behind it are generallj' low ; some rooks occur at a little distance off
shore, but there is no appearance of a wide shoal-belt like that found East of
Masset. Klai-Kwun Point, 4^ miles W. by N. from Naden Point, is a re-
markable promontory, rising in the centre to a hill about 200 ft. in height,

PARRY PASSAGE— NORTH ISLAND.

585

which is visible for a long distance. In a rocky bay, to the East of the point,
is the new Ya-tza village.

About 6 J miles to the S. W. of Klas-Kwun Point is Jul- un River, a stream
of no great size, but its mouth forms an excellent canoe or boat harbour at
high water. At 3 miles further westward is a small piomontory, on the East
side of which is another excellent boat harbour, and to the West of it is a
wide bay, called Pillar Bay, from a very remarkable columnar mass of sand-
stone and conglomerate rock which stands near the eastern side, about 25 ft.
in diameter and 95 ft. high, the summit covered with small bushes. It is
separated at high water from the shore.

Parry Passage, named after the late Sir E. Parry, separates North Island
(which forms the N.W. extremity of the Queen Charlotte Islands) from
Graham Island, and is about 2 miles in length, with an average width of three-
quarters of a mile. Off the point on the South side of the eastern entrance is
a low rock, with a reef covered at high water a little farther out. Lucy
Island, on the North shore of the passage, is separated from North Island by
a narrow passage, the entrance of which, with 8 to 11 fathoms, is between a
reef extending oflF the East end of Lucy Island, and a wide shoal, with kelp,
off the South extremity of North Island. Abreast Tartanne, the Indian
village on the North shore, the depth is 6 fathoms. Ledges of rock run off
the southern side of Parry Channel, but there is a good and clear channel
between them and North Island, through which the tide rushes and forms a
perfect race. On the South side was Chief Edensaw's village, from which he
intended removing to Virago Sound. Just within the eastern entrance of
Parry Channel, and on the South side, is a bay with anchorage in it.

Bruin Bay, on the South side of the passage and abreast Lucy Island, has
anchorage in 12 to 14 fathoms, sand, and may be used as a temporary
stopping-place ; the flood sets into it forming cddicn. The country is low and
wooded. On the South shore, at the West end of the passage, is Chief
Edensaw's village, now deserted.

On the South side of North Island, and westward of Lucy Island, is a snug
cove, called Ilenslung, with high banks and clitfs surrounding it. It is reported
that whalers occasionally anchored in it. At the head of the cove is a stmdy
beach, with a stream of water running down it.

North Island, named by Dixon in 1787, is about 5 miles in length, between
North Point and its southern e.vtreme, and composed of low, densely woodtd
land, no point probably reaching a height of 300 ft. On its ea8t3ru side there
is said to be a good anchorage in a bay which was formerly often used by the
vessels beUmging to the old North West Company.

Cloak Bay, the western entrance to Parry Passage, lies between North
Island and Cape Knox, and is about 2^ miles wide, with a simila;- dopth.
Some rocks, on which the sea breaks only in heavy weather, lie r: ine distance

'.y»ii

^'^

' '"''*.'> i*!

North I'acijic.

i >••

586

QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS.

\ l]

off the North Island shore, and there are also a couple of remarkable pointed
islands on this side. Mr. Dawson states that the East side of North Island
affords no good anchorage.

Cape Enoz, the N.W. extreme of Graham Island, is a long narrow tongue
of land, on which are a few low hills. Its South side is bold, and off it lie
several rocks in a westerly direction, the farthest out at a distance of about
3 J miles off the cape, on which the swell seldom ceases to break violently.

On leaving Parry Passage for the westward, get a good ofRng before hauling
to the southward, to clear the rocks off Cape Knox. When well out, the
projecting point of Frederick Island will be seen about 18 miles to the south-
eastward. At 2 or 3 miles to the southward of Parry Passage is an indenta-
tion of the coast, which might be taken as its entrance by a vessel coming
from the southward, — a mistake that might lead to serious consequences, as
the whole coast, as fur as Frederick I.slanJ, appears to contain several open
bays, with outlying breaking rocks off each of them.

HIPPA ISLAND,* 26 miles S.E. i S. of Frederick Island, appears from a
position H mile seawaid of the latter to be high and bold, but from the South
its outer end appears as a low point, and the inner end bold. This portion of
the coast is higher and more broken than the former, the openings appearing
deeper, neither does it seem to have so many rocks lying off it. The Indians
show some good harbours towards llippa. When abreast Hippa Island, Point
Buck, 27 miles distant, and also Cape Henry, 18 miles further on, can be seen,
the coast presenting the same high and broken appearance as the preceding
2G miles. All the points along tliis part much resemble Point Buck, which is
rather low and rugged, jutting out from the high land at the back.

This coast of the island, as has been before mentioned, is very incompletely
knowr • and at 15 or 18 miles eastward of Hippa Island, Vancouver places
I':' enu i'; e of Rennell Sound, so named by Dixon, lat. 53" 23' N. The land
aTipciii- uiuch broken, and the coast composed of steep mountainous prc-
cipi ., divided from each other by water. These gradually increase in height
in coming southward.

Point Back, on the North side of the western entrance of Skidegate
Channel, has a laige higli island, Chalqiie, just to the northward of it, and
another, much smaller and peaked, standing out clear of the land, at about
3 or 4 miles further to the northward, lying in the entrance of Cartwriyht
Sound, which is formed by Point Buck on the South, and Point Hunter or the
North.

SKIDEOATE CHANNEL, separating Graham Island from Moresby Island,
lies in lat. 53° 9'. The eastern entrance has been alluded to on page 580.

* This island was so ntiraud by Dixon, from ita being inhabited by a tribe, who fortified
themselves precisely in the mnnner of a hippa (o-pah) of the Now ^ealanders. It ; : called
QufquHz by the Indians. Mr. Brown believes that native lead is found in the first .:ilut
ubuve Uippa Island, at a place called (Jhatlem,

PORT KUrER-MITCnELL HARBOUR.

687

The western entrance is about 7 or 8 miles eastward of Point Buck, and is a
little over a mile in width. From thence the channel runs in an easterly
direction for 6 or 7 miles to Log Point, affording no sheltered anchorage. At
Log Point the West Narrows commence, and about a mile southward of it a
branch turns off to the southward and westward, entering the Pacific about
3 miles southward of the main channel, thus forming an island 5^ miles lomg,
and 1,000 to 2,000 ft. high. A vessel might find anchorage in the northern
entrance of this passage, but farther in it is blocked by a bank, with not more
than 4 ft. on it at high water.

PORT KUPEB.— About 9 miles O.E. of Skidegate Channel is a large in-
duniatir.n in the coast of Moresby Island, and nearly filled by Kuper or Kennedy
TyJai 'uch has a passage on either side of it, leading to Mitchell or Gold

"^'tO'bo'U,

Insl-ip Channel, which leads round the North side of Kuper Island, was
first used by H.M.S. Virago, in 1853, and is about 8J miles long, by half a
mile wide. A little without it, there are some small islands on either side,
but there can be no difficulty in discovering the passage in. In the channel
there is no bottom at 60 fathoms, but nt the entrance a cast was got with
35 fathoms, on a halibut bank. At a short distance inside the islands, on the
North side of the entrance, is a village belonging to the Kilkite tribe. Fur-
ther in, on the same side, and about 3 J miles up, is a deep opening, and where
this and Moore Channel meet, are two other openings to harbours, with some
small islands lying near them. This channel is no doubt equally as safe as
the other.

Moore Channel, au the South side of Kuper Island, is named after Mr. Geo.
Moore, master <ii; I'.aI.S. Thetis, who made a complete survey of both it and
Mitchell Hr-' lar vlJpt in that ship, which was sent to protect British
interest in 15. »i:'''\!^ the time that a large number of adventurers from
California had twi' ced here to dig and search for gold, some of that metal
having been discov» i'^ ly the Indians. This channel, always used by the
vessels which convey .d these people, is 5 miles long in an E.N.E. and W.S.W.
direction, and half a mile broad, the shore on each side being bold of approach,
high, and coveret' with trees down nearly to the water's edge. In mid-
channel there ip :m bottom at 70 fathoms. On the North side, just without
the entrance, are Moresby Islands, some small rocky islets, and ou the South
side a few rncks close inshore.

Mitchel' '' Odd Harbour,* or Skiton, is about 2^ miles deep, and half a

* In 1862, ti . 1 ' -dson's Bay Company~>!Kagpatched a party in the brig Una, to examine
this placj for fe> i, and llr. Mitchell, who ooii-ssianded tho ahip, coUocttd about 1,000
dollirs worth of gold, but tho Indians stole it as soon^s^it was blasted, so the expeiiilioa
broke up. Again in July, 1869, a party under Mr. Downie^Hsjnpted to flnel gold here,
but decided t' \i further search woa uselosa.— Seo Captain Maynd^ British Columbia,
pp. 186, 187, \

' !•(!.•

'!■ '

ii'i .

1 i|ii

588

QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS.

* : 1

mile wide, surrounded by precipitous and densely wooded hills, from 700 to
800 ft. in height, and at its head, in Thetis Cove, is a sandy beach and a
stream of water. At If mile up the harbour is Sansom Island, a small spot
covered with trees, and the ruins of a number of huts. The anchorage lies
inside this, in Thetis Cove, keeping Sansom Island on the port hand; the
])assage being a cable wide, with deep water. This cove is completely land-
locked, but squalls, frequently accompanied by rain, come over the hills with
considerable violence. At upwards of half a mile from the mouth of the
harbou/, on the starboard side going in, is Thorn Rock, with only 3 ft. on it
at low water, lying about a cable's length from the shore ; and on the upposite
side, not quite at so great a distance from the land, but a little further out, is
another rock. These are dangeri r :o vessels working in or out; but if the
wind be fair, and a ship is kept mid i there is nothing to fear.

Douglas Harboiur. — At 1 mile to westward of Mitchell Harbour,

and on the same side of Moore Channel, is the entrance to Douglas Harbour,
apparently very similar to the former, from which it is separated by Josling
Peninsula. A sailing vessel leaving Moore Channel with a S.E. wind should
keep well over towards Hewlett Bay, on the South side of the entrance, to
enable her to fetch clear of Moresby Islands, as the wind will be very unsteady
until well clear of the high land to windward.

TASOU HABBOUB.— Ca/>« Henry, which lies 3 miles S.S.W. of the
entrance to Moore Channel, terminates in a steep slope, with a hummock at
the extremity. At 17 miles to the S.E. by E. of this is the entrance of Tasoo
Harbour, the intermediate coast being high, and rising abruptly from the sea.
Its entrance is short and narrow, but the harbour itself is extensive, with very
deep water in many places. There is anchorage in it, near some small islands
on the port hand going in ; it has only been visited by a few of the Hudson's
Bay Company's officers.

Between Tasoo and Cape St. James, about 60 miles to E.S.E., are other
openings, which, according to Indian report, lead into good harbours, the
southernmost of which is that leading into Houston Stewart Channel and Rose
Harbour. Inside Shangoi Islands, and close to Houston Stewart Channel, \h
an opening, called by the natives Louiscoon, and reported to be a good
harbour, not unlike Rose Harbour. This coast is also apparently very bold,
excepting off the Shangoi Islands, and like the previous 1 7 miles. The land
near Cape St. James has fewer trees on it than that to the northward.

Tides. — llie following brief account of the tides along the North and N.E.
coasts of the islands is given by a Hudson's Bay Company's officer.

'I'he course and strength of the tides are not regular, being greatly in-
fluenced by the winds. At full and change they are very rapid. The time of
high water is about 12'' 30"".

In Hecate Strait the flood tide comes from the southward. In Dixon
Entrance the flood, coming from the westward round North Island, sets along

]

TIDES.

589

the Masset shore across Hecate Strait for Brown Passage, spreading about
15 miles round Point Kose towards Cape Ibbetsou (Edye Passage), where it
meets the flood from the southward, from Skidegate, Banks Island, and
Canal de Principe; consequently between Point Kose, Cape Ball, Cape
Ibbetson, and thence S.E. 12 or 15 miles, the tides are very irregular.

The tides between Cape Murray, Point Percy, and Isle de Zayas are the
strongest and most iiTegular, causing a heavy and confused sea, so much so
that in bad weather it has the appearance of breakers.

In concluding this account of the coast of this distant British colony, it may
be remarked that the wonderful change in its fortunes, and the sudden
acquisition of importance to civilization is almost unparalleled. It is, there-
fore, difficult to keep pace with the progress of a country which, till so recent
a period, was only considered fit to be occupied by the trading posts for the
purchase of furs.

The nautical descriptions are, however, tolerably complete, and this is also
an evidence of the great progress of the times. The southern part of the sin-
gular and rugged coasts of this region were for the most part most excellently
surveyed and described by Capt. Bicburds in the Vancouver Island Pilot ; and
the surveys by Statf-Commander D. Pender, in 1864 — 1870, have added much
to our knowledge of the northern portion. Where these authorities are
wanting the work of Vancouver is our chief guide ; and this work has had but
scant justice awarded to its great merit.* Whether the country will rise to be
the home of a great and populous nation is a question which may fairly be left
to future controversy.

* Besides the excellent narratives of Capt. Mayne and Mr. F. Whymper, which describe
many parts of thii coast, " The North-west Passage by Land," by Lord Milton and Dr.
Cheadle, will, with the others, give a good insight into the early condition of the colonies.
•' Vancouver Island and British Columbia," by the B«y. Matthew Macfle, F.R.Q.S., 1866;
" BritiHh Columbia and Vancouver Island," by Mr. Duncan Q, F. Macdonald, 1862 ;
" V'ncouver Island and British Columbia," by Alexander Rattray, M.D., 1862; "Travels
in British Columbia, &c.," by E. E. Barrett- Lennard, 1862; may be consulted with much
advantage. Mr. Sproat's " Scenes and Studies of Savage Life," are very inters ting. As
be largely employed native labour at his saw-mills at Albcrni, in Barclay Sound, for
many years, he had special opportunities for arriving at some remarkable conc]usion.s.
There are numerous detached accounto, among which the Description of Vancouver Island,
by Capt. W. Colquhoun Grant, F.R.G.S., Journal of the Royal Geographical Society,
1857, vol. xxxvii., pp. 268 — 320, may be specially noticed. Several of the more rooent im-
portant works have beun noticed in various parts of the preceding description.

A«;l

( 590 )

M i

iHI

CHAPTER VIII.

THE COAST OF ALASKA, FROM PORTLAND CANAL TO THE
KODIAK ARCHIPELAGO.

The whole of the north-western Const of America, from the Portland Canal
to the intersection of the 141° meridian with the Arctic Coast, now belongs to
the United States. The length of this coast-line has been estimated at
11,270 miles. From the Portland Canal to Mount St. Elias, the highest peak
on the continent, in lat. 60° 10' N., the boundary between this territory and
Dritish Columbia is fixed at a distance of 30 miles from the coast, and from
Mount St. Elias the division is the mcridiai..4l line carried northward. The
area of this territory on the mainland is estimated by the United States' Coast
Survey officers at 549,500 square statute miles, of the Aleutian Islands in-
cluded in the territory 5,630 square miles, and of the other islands 22,260
square miles, together forming a total of 577,390 square miles.

This extensive but comparatively useless region was purchased of the
Russian Government by the United States, for the sum of 7,200,000 dollars,
in coin, the treaty for the transfer being signed on May 28th, 1867. The sum
of 200,000 dollars was added to the amount, for the purpose of extinguishing
the claims of the Russian- American Fur Company, whose head-quarters were
at Sitka, and of an ice-company, established in Kodiac, who had special
privileges conceded to them.

The Russian-American Company was established under charter from the
Emperor Paul, July 8th, 1799; and the extensive territory in question was
granted to them to occupy and bring under the dominion of Russia. The
Russian Company and the Hudson's Bay Company were thus brought into
collision, and the latter experienced considerable loss in their endeavours to
prevent this extension of Russian power. But in justice to Russia it must be
said that no country had a better claim to the territory ; for as early as 1741,
Yitus Bchring (a Dane in the employment of Russia), and his companion

L'^HfiBSUSS

THE COAST OF ALASKA.

591

Tschirikoff, had touched on the continent in the lat. of 59° and 56° respec-
tively; the former seeing much of the intervening countries, too, on his return;
and by 17G3 many other adventurers had penetrated eastward as far as Kodiuk
— and it must be remembered that no other nation claims to have penetrated
further North than lat. 53°. In addition to this, Russia had as gradually
improved her knowledge by possession as these discoveries advanced, and
this, too, not from any jealousy of other powers interfering, as was the case
between Spain, England, and France, to the South. Thus the settlement at
Kodiak was formed four years before our countryman Meares purchased, or
said he did si. nis tract of land in Nootka Sound, and Sitka was founded ten
or twelve years before Astoria was.

Notwithstanding this, the Hudson's Bay Company expended considerable
sums in the establishment of trading posts on the large Iliver Stikine in
lat. 56" 20'. The Russians resented by force this procedure of the company,
although England claimed the privilege of navigating the rivers flowing from
the interior of the continent to the Pacific, across the line of boundary esta-
blished under the treaty of 1825. The British Government required redress
for this infraction of the treaty ; and after negotiation between the two
guvernraents and the two chartered companies, it was agreed, in 1839, that
from the 1st June, 1840, the Hudson's Bay Company should enjoy for ten
years the exclusive use of the continent assigned to Russia by Mr. Canning
in 1825, and extending from 54° 40' N. to Cape Spencer, near 58° N., in
consideration of the annual payment of 2,000 otter skins to the Russian-
American Company. The boundary between the Russian and English pos-
sessions was fixed by the convention agreed to by the respective powers, Feb-
ruary 28th, 1825. The charter of the Russian- American Company, granted
in 1799, was renewed in 1839, when they had thirty-six hunting and fishing
establishments.

Sitka, or New Archangel, founded in 1805, was their chief post. Subordi-
nate to it there was a smaller establishment of a similar kind at Alaska, which
supplied one post in Bristol Bay, and three posts in Cook Inlet, all connected
with minor stations in the interior. Another station in Norton Soand had its
own inland dependencies. The whole of the territory was divided into six
agencies, each controlled by the governor-general. The inhabitants of the
Kurile and Aleutian Islands, and those of the large island of Kodiak, were
regarded as the immediate subjects of the Russian Company, in whose service
every man between 18 and 50 might be required to pass at least three
j'ears. The natives of the country adjacent to Cook Inlet and Prince William
Sound also paid a tax to the company, in furfi and skins. The other
aborigines in the Russian territory were not allowed to trade with any people
but those of the Russian Company.

The political troubles in which Russia was involved some years since, and
the probable unprofitable nature of this, their distant possession, led the way

m*<

I ^

592

THE COAST OF ALASKA.

to the quiet trnnsfcr of this immense region.* Under its new masters some of
its resources will most probably be further developed, but the real value of the
territory was the subject of much remark and controversy at the time of the
purchase. So little was known of WaUrussia that most vague statements
were made respecting it. And as the new regime is of such recent establish-
ment but little can be said here of the social condition of its inhabitants, or of
its value to mankind in general.

The one prominent feature which is of most interest in this work is the
peculiarity of its climate. In the first edition of this work (18.5U) the great
stream which, like another Atlantic Gulf Stream, passes swiftly along the
Japanese Archipelago, was traced for the first time, step by step, up to these
shores, and the circulatory system of the North Pacific was shown to be
analogous to that of the other oceans. Unlike the North Atlantic, the whole
of this eastward drift is carried on to the American coast (as explained in the
special Chapter hereafter), one portion along the Aleutian Islands, the other
towards Vancouver Island and Califrnia. The insignificant portion, which
passes through Bchring Straits, do not affect the great question. This
immense E.N.E. drift brings to the shores of Alaska a. .normous quantity of
water that is warmer than is due to the latitude. The one great result of this
is the wonderful development of animal life, which is the distinguishing
feature of the ocean washing it. It it the greatest Jithery in the world. The
accumulated development of ocean-life seems to be drifted on to the coast and
into its intricate fiords, as is the case, but in a minor degree, with the Atlantic
and the great fishing banks of the Loffoten Islands and the Coast of Norway.

The result of this um junded supply of ocean-food is that the rivers and
fiords teem with salmon to such an extent, that the quantity seems to be
incredible, were it not for the universal testimony of all who come here. In
the open sea, cod, halibut, and an infinite variety of fish, are to be caught in
unbounded quantities. Upon these fish and mollusca, the sea-otter by land,
and the whale in the sea exist, and are, at present, the chief objects of profit.
Settlements have been made at several places for the carrying on of the
fishery. In 1880, 10,000 cases of salmon are said to have been packed.

The climate of the region, too, is subject entirely to this ocean influence.
The prevalent S.W. winds, blowing over such a wide area of warmer ocenn,
bring to the land, and especially near the sea, a vast accumulation of aqueous
vapour, which, while it ameliorates the climate, and by its humidity causes
vegetation to be of most gigantic growth, makes the climate of Alaska to be
BO moist, that cultivation would seem to be hopeless. The following summary

• The history of the negotiiition, and the steps which led to it, are exhaustively related
in a "speech," by the Hon. Charles Sumner, before Congress, Washington, 1867. This ig
comprised in a closely printed pamphlut, of 96 columns ! and gives a resume of the whole
subject as far as was then known.

THE COAST OF ALASKA.

693

otfouyfftff years observations at the Imperial Observatory at Sitka will plainly
show this relation of temperature and rainfall.

Temp. Fahr. Rkin. Inches.

Spring (March— May) 41*.3 14.0

Summer (Juno — August) 64*.3 16.4

Autumn (September — KoTeikber] .... 44*.2 30.8

Winter (December— February) 31*.9 22.2

Mean

42>.9 Total

82.4

The greatest rainfall was 96 inches in 1850 ; least 58.6 inches in 1861. The
yearly average of days upon which rain, snow, and hail fell, or on which fog
prevailed, for fourteen years, was two hundred and forty-jive. These results
are from hourly observations.*

^t Ounalaska, according to Bishop Benjaminoff, the mean spring tempera-
ture was 33°.9, summer 49"'.6, autumn 37''.5, winter 30".! ; mean for the year
37''.8, or 5''.1 below that of Sitka.

The harbour of Sitka and the adjacent harbours never freeze, and the land
ice is unfit for the Californian market, which is supplied from Kodiak. Here
the ice forms from 15 to 25 inches each year, so that it is not thicker than
that of Boston, U.S., although it is 900 geographical miles further North ! a
wonderful evidence of ocean climate. 0' the whaling grounds we will briefly
speak in the next Chapter.f Of its forests, its coal fields and gold regions, wc
need not say anything — all these matters are yet in their infancy.

It is difficult to get an accurate estimate of the number of the population.
In 1836 the number of Russians in the territory of the Company was 730 ; of
native subjects, 1,442 Creoles, and about 11,000 aborigines of the Kurile,
Aleutian, and Kodiak Islands. In 1868 the population was reported by the
military commander to be, 2,000 whites and 60,000 half breeds and Indians ;
but this latter estimate must be very crude. Sitka is the port of entry. The
military force consisted of infantry and artillery, sufficient to garrison the six
military posts of Fort Tongas, Fort Wrangel, Fort Koutznou, Sitka, Fort
Kenai, and Fort Kodiak.

In 1870, Mr. W. H. Dall estimated the population at about 29,000, of
whom about 2,000 were whites and half-breeds. The latest estimate gives
about 40,000 natives, and about 500 whites.^

* In 1879 the U.S. Coast and Geodetic Survey issued a valuable work on the Meteoro-
\a\gj of Alaika, containing the results of obaervationa made at numerous stationn.

t When the representatives of the Federal Qovernment went to Sitka to receive the
transfer of the territory, a body of scientific men accompanied them, and the result of some
of their investigations, as given by Professor Davidson, was published in the Proceedings
of the California Academy of Natural Sciences, San Francisco, 1867.

X Much additional information relating to this territory will be found in Mr. W. H.
North Pacific, 4 o

ill

594

THE COAST OF ALASKA.

The lawn of the United States relating to customs, commerce, and naviga-
tion, and the establishment of a collection district at Alaska, were extended to
the territory by the Act No. 125 of the Second Session of the 40th Congress,
passed July 27th, 1868. By the same Act the killing of fur-bearing animals
is prohibited, except under regulations prescribed by the Secretary of the
U.S. Treasury. By order of General Halleck, August 13th, 1868, the military
district is attached to California.

The character of the country, and its trade, &o., will be gathered from the
previous remarks and the subsequent imperfect descriptions. A portion of the
interior sounds were explored and surveyed by Vancouver, doubtless with his
usual accuracy, but of course this occurred before it was colonized by the
Russian Company. A Russian chart was published in 1853, which gave
many additional details, especially of the western face of the Sitka Archi-
pelago, which was re-surveyed by them. Additions to this chart have been
made by the U.S. surveyors, but up to the present time no systematic survey
of this coast has been made.

The southern part of this coast, or to as far northward as lat. 58° 15', is
fronted by numerous large islands, similar to the coast of British Columbia,
mostly rising in high mountains, and all covered with a dense growth of
vegetation. These islands are divided by numerous navigable passages.

The KOLOSCHENSK ABCHIPELAGO of the Russians, also known as the
Alexander Archipelago, is the extensive group of islands which lie between
the entrance of the Portland Canal, the boundary of the Territory, and the
northern part of the Sitka Islands. Its main features were well delineated by
Vancouver's survey in 1792, but in many parts, especially of that which has
become the principal part, the Sitka Group, the cursory examination he made
is somewhat defective. The Russian and United States off.cers have made us
better acquainted with it, and the King George III. Archipelago of our
illustrious navigator is now separated into four or more large islands. The
Russian designation is derived from the Indian tribes who inhabit them.
These Koloschians, or Kaloshes, have been known in British Columbia as
Stikines, and they speak the same language, or at least a dialect of it, as the
natives of Vancouver Island and the adjacent continent. Their number is
assumed as from 12,000 to 15,000, and they are separated into several families
or tribes. Although very much has been done by the settlers in bringing
them into a better condition than the primitive savages they were, they must
not be trusted.

Doll's valuable work, " Alaska and its Resouroes," and in other works by the same author.
Another valuable contribution to our knowledge of Alaska \» " Capitaiu Jacobaen's Beise
an der Nordwestkiiste Amerikas, 1881 — 1883," edited by A. Woldt, 1884. Oapt. Jacobsen
was sent out to procure ethnographical material for the Royal Berlin Museum. In
" From Fifth Avenue to Alaska," by Mr. £. Pierrepoint, 1884, an account will be found
of a voyage along the coast in 1883.

'1 '

^Ji-

TONGAS— nEVILLA GIQEDO CHANNEL.

695

The PORTLAND CAI7AL, forming the boundary, has been described be-
fore, pp. 561 — 568. Cape Fox forms the N.W. point of the approaches to it.

TONOAS, the southernmost of the military posts established by the United
States on their new territory, is on a small island, one of the Wales Island
group, which form the North side of the entrance to the Portland Canal,
about 3i miles N.E. by E. J E. from Cape Fox, in about lat. 64' 47' N., long.
130° 44' W., and opposite to Port Simpson, which is distant about 17 miles to
the E.S.E. I'he fort, which is garrisoned by one company, is of the usual
description, and the primeval forest had to be cleared for the purpose of
f^-Tiing the post. Fish, as everywhere besides, is most abundant. The
Tongas Indians, a small tribe of about 500 people, inhabited these islands. The
climate here is very damp, this locality being stated to have the heaviest rain-
fall in Alaska.

From Cnpe Fox the coast takes a westerly direction 4 miles, and then
N.W. i N. nearly 6 miles further, to a projecting point called Foggy Cape, the
coast being very rocky and dangerous. North of Foggy Cape is a large bay
filled with a labyrinth of small islands, rocks, and shoals, the north-western-
most and largest being N.W. by W. nearly 3 miles distant.

REVILLA OIOEDO CHANNEL.— Cape Fox on the East, and Cape
Northumberland on the West, bearing E. J N. and W. J S. 15 miles apart,
form the southern entrance to the Canal de Revilla Gigedo of Caamano, here-
after noticed. This channel, including Tongas Narrows, may be advan-
tageously used to keep in smooth water, and to avoid the frequent heavy swell
setting throu^ Dixon Entrance from the ocean into the South part of Duke
of Clarence Strait.

Four miles north-westward of the island above mentioned is the entrance to
the Boca de Quadra, which is almost rendered inaccessible by islets and rocks.
The inlet first takes a direction of N.N.E., to a point 7 miles within the
entrance, whence the shores become less elevated, and the inlet takes a
S.E. by E. ^ E. direction for 5 miles, and then North for 17 miles to its head,
in lat. 65° 17^', a small border of low land, through which flow two rivulets.
'J'he sides of this canal are nearly straight, firm, and compact, composed of
high, steep, rocky cliffs, covered with wood. Near the entrance, in the
Revilla Gigedo Canal, is an islet called by Vancouver Slate Islet, a prodigious
mass of this stone differing from any other about here. About 5 miles
N.W. by W. of the entrance is Point Sykes, and N.W. by N. 10 miles farther,
is Point Alava, and between these points is the entrance to Behm Canal, in
which lies Mary Island.

BEHM CANAL, so named after Major Behm, is one of those extensive
and singular arms which abound on this forbidding and inhospitable coast.
It runs northward for 65 miles, then westwardly and southwardly, encircling
the large island of Revilla Gigedo, and this is separated on the S.W. by tho

THE COAST OF ALASKA.

strait of the Mme name, and Tongas Narrows, from Qravina and Annette
Islands.

From Point Sykei, the S.E. point of the entrance, the South shore runs
N. by E. 10 miles to Point Nelson, tie inlet being from 7 to 9 miles wide.
Eastward of Point Nelson an inlet takes a N.E. by E. and North direction for
4 miles, terminating in the usual manner, "ihe surrounding country consists
of a huge mass of steep, barren, rocky mountains, destituio of soil, the summits
covered with perpetual snow. The shores are nearly perpendicular cliffs
rising from the water's edge, llie N.E. po'nt of this inlet is Point Trollope,
6 miles from Point Nelson. In this part of tu^f canal ar? several islands.
North-westward of Point TroHopo are two long narrow islands on the Eaot
side, forming a narrow chur.nel 7 miies long inside o^ them. OfT the N.W.
point of the northernmost of these, bearing N.W. about 2 miles distant, is a
very remarkable rock, named by Vancouver the New Eddystone, from its
resemblance to the celebrated lighthouse and rock. Its circumference at its
bise is about 50 yards, standing perpendicularly on a surface of fine dark-
coloured sand. Its surface is uneven, and its diameter regularly decreases to
a few feet at its apex. Its height was found to be above 230 ft., lat. 55° 29'.

On the East shore of the canal, 4 miles above the New Eddystone, is an
unimportant arm, 7 miles in depth. The coast beyond this is straight and
compact, trending N.W. \ N. 8 miles to Walker Cove, an inlet extending
6 miles N.E. by N. The main inlet extends in a W.N.W. direction from
Walker Cove. The water is of a very light colour, not very salt, and the
interior country, on the Island of Revilla Oigedo, rises into rugged mountains,
little inferior in iieight to those on the eastern side. The shores here are
nowhere more than 2 miles apart, and on the East shore, to the northward of
the cove, is a cluster of rocks a mile in extent. Proceeding northward, the
canal takes a more westerly direction to Fitzyibbon Point on the East side, in
lat. 55° 56' ; and the opposite point, on che island, is called Point Whaley,

Borrongh Bay extends N. by £. ^ E. from Point Fitzgibbon about 6 miles,
where it is terminated by low land, chrough which three or four small rivulets
appear to flow over a bank of mud stretching from the head of the arm, and
reaching from side to side, on w'aich was lodged a quantity of drift wood.
When Vancouver was here, August 11th, 179S, he found the water perfectly
fresh, and the whole surfa e of the hay strewed over with salmon, either dead
or in the last stages of existence. They were all small, of one sort, and called
by him hunchbacked salmon, from a sort of excrescence rising along 'he backs
of the male fish. In all parts of the inlet, particularly in the arms, and in
every run of fresh water, vast numbers of these fish were seen, but all in &
sickly condition. If any just conclusion could be drawn from the immense
numbers found dead, not only in the water, but lodged on the shores below
high-water mark, it would seem that their death takes place immediately after
spawning, for the purpose of which they ascend these inlets.

iil^.

ftEIlM CANAli— roUT STEWART.

607

From the mouth of Burrotigh Bay, the main inlet takes an irregular
S.W. by 8. direction, to a point on the North shore, nearly C miles from Point
Whaley, named Point Lees. Beyond Point Lees the North shore of the
principal channel is formed by Bell Island, which is about 6 miles long in a
N.N.E. and S.S.W. direction.

The point on the South shore, beyond the West point of Bell Island, is in
lat. 66° 60', long. 131° 39' (Vancouver, vol. ii, p. 367) ; and her- the channel
turns sharp to the southward, and widens in that direction. On the opposite
side of the canal is an inlet extending in a westerly direction, for about
4 miles, and to the South of this inlet is a large bay, terminating in a sandy
beach nearly all round, its shores moderately elevated and thickly wooded.
Oif its S.E. point is an island, but no channel inside it. The interior country
is not very high, particularly westward, where a low wooded country extends
as far as the eye can reach.

Port Stewart, named after one of the mates of Vancouver's ship, is to the

S.S.E. of this, its South point of entrance being in lat. 66° 38' 15" N., long.

131° 15' W. Here Vancouver remained with his vessel in August .md

tember, 1793. He found it a small but convenient bay, secured, by several

before it, from the wind in all directions. Both excellent water and

wood in abundance were found close at hand.

It is formed by a bay in the land, having several islets and rocks lying
before it ; within these, from the South point of its entrance, it takes a course
of N.W. by W. i W., about 1^ mile in length and three-quarters of a mile in
breadth. In this space it affords good and secure anchorage, in from 4 to 1 8
fathoms, good holding ground. Towards its head are two very snug coves
or basins, one of which is a continuation of the port, the other formed by
an indent in the land. The best passage into Fori Stewart is between the
southernmost isle and the main land ; this is perfectly free from any obstruc-
tion, with soundings from 4 fathoms at the side to 1 1 fathoms in the middle.
The other passages are not very safe, having several rocks in them.

The eastern shore of Behm Canal, southward of the point where it Msumes
a southerly direction, is much broken and intersected with arms ; and
oppos;te to Port Stewart is a cove near which Vancouver was attacked by
Indians, in which two of his men were severely wounded ; hence he called it
Traitor's Cove, and a point to the South on which he landed, in lat. 65° 35',
Escape Point.

Cape Caamano, the South point of the peninsula dividing Behm Canal
from Clarence Strait, is in lat. 55° 29' N., long. 131° 52' W., and was so
called after the Spanish commander who first delineated (though imperfectly)
these shores.

On the opposite side of the channel, the westernmost point of the island of
Bevilla Gigedo is called Point Higgins, after the then President of Chile,
Seur. Higgins de Vallenar, and this latter name is applied to the North p oiut

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THE COAST OK ALASKA.

of the Island Grnvinn, S. by E. 2 miles from Point Higgins. From two small
islands off Poinf Vallenar extends a ledge of rocks, parts of which are only
visible at low tide. Beaton hland lies to the northward of Point Higgins,
ngainst th«> eastern coast ; dangerous rocks lie half a mile off its northern
shore.

TONOAS NARBOWS, the narrow part of the Canal Revilla Gigedo of
Seiior Canraano, separates, as before stated, the Island, or rather Islands, of
Gravina from Revilla Gigedo Island and the main land. It runs W, by S.
from between Points Higgins and Vallenar to the southern entrance of Behm
Canal, described previously. It was not explored by Vancouver, and Lieut.
J. E. Craig, U.S.S. Alaska, 1879, states that it is merely outlined on the
charts, and very incorrectly, as it is a winding and extremely narrow channel,
the navigation of which is only safe with a competent pilot, as there are
many hidden dangers, and its sides are bordered by numerous low islets.
In some parts the channel is less than a quarter of a mile in width. The
current through the narrows is very swift.

Ward Harbour or Cove is situated on the East side of the narrows, about
3 miles from the northern end. There are wooded bluffs on each side of the
entrance, and on the North side two wooded islets. It appears to be from IJ
to 2 miles deep and about 1 mile wide. The Alaska anchored in 6 fathoms, fine
brown sand, with the entrance points bearing S. i W. and 8.W. by S. J S. ;
well sheltered on all sides by high land.

DUKE OF CLARENCE STRAIT separates the Prince of Wales Archi-
pelago on the West from the islands we have been describing on the East, and
from the Duke of York and other islands northward, and is probably the
opening distinguished in Caaraano's chart as the " Estrecho del Almirante
Fuentes, y Entrada de Nostra Sen. del Ciirmin."

Cape Korthamberlaind is the southernmost point of the Gravinn Islands,
and off it are several clusters of rocks, the bearings of the principal of which,
from a tolerably highroimd island lying about a mile S.E. by S. from the cape,
are as follow: the outermost to the N.W., W. i N., 3J miles; the south-
westernmost, S.W. 4J miles; the southernmost, which is the most distant,
S.E. by S. 6^^ miles ; and the south-easternmost, E. by S. J S. 5 miles distant.
Within some of these the intermediate spaces are occupied by an immense number
of rocks and breakers. The southernmost is a round lump of barj-en rock,
always above water, the channel between which and the N.W. and S.E, rocks
appeared to have no dangers in it. On the chart two other reefs are marked
outside these, the positions of which are doubtful, The one is called the
Devil's Ridge, and bears 1»^ miles S. i E, of Cape Northumberland; the other
is 1 6 miles to S. by W. i W. of the same cape.

Capt. J. C. Brundige, who searched for Devil's Bidge, says, «' I found a
sunken rock about 4 miles north-westerly of Zayas Island, having only 6 ft. over
it at low water. As near as I could judge the reef is not more than 1 acre. I

DUKE OF CLAKENCE STRAIT.

699

obtained several good observations and found it to lie with Cape do Chacon
bearing S.W. by W. ; Gnarled Island, E. by N, | N. ; and Zayas Island,
S.E. by S. i S. I havf: no doubt of this being the Devil's Kidge. I was told
by several Ilydah chiefs, that there is no other rock or reef in this locality.

" The Indians also informed mo that I would find one big stone between
Capes de Chacon and Northumberland. We then steered for the place
indicated, and saw the sea breaking heavily at about 2 miles off. I approached
as near as possible and took the following bearings : Cape de Chacon,
S.W. by W. ; island off Cape Northumberland, E. by N. ^ N. ; small island on
the West side of Clarence Strait, N.W. i W. The above bearings place
this reef 8 miles true North of where it is placed on the chart, marked
position doubtful. The breakers appeared to cover a space fully I mile in
extent." See note on p. 538.

Point Percy lies 9 miles W. by N. i N. from Cape Northumberland, and to
the E.N.E. of it there appeared to be an opening through Gravina Islands to
Behra Channel. It is the westorn extremity of a long, narrow cluster of low
islands, extending about 3^^ miles in a N.N.E. direction, nearly uniting to
the eastern shore, which is much broken North and South of them. Between
this point and Cape Northumberland are several clusters of dangerous rocks,
lyit.g in all directions, a considerable distance from shore, and indicated by the
weeds growing on them.

Tomgas Harbour. — Point Davison bears N.W. by W. i W. 2i miles from
Point Percy, and is in lat. 55° OJ' N. Between these points is the entrance
to the sheltered basin named Tomgas Harbour, which can also be entered by
the channel eastward of the islands, and is about 2 miles in length. At 3 miles
N. by E. of Point Davison the channel turns tc the N.W. and becomes narrower,
but with deep water. Anchorage will be found in about 15 fathoms in the
southern part of the harbour.

From Point Davison the coast runs N. by E. towards an opening about
2 miles wide, appearing to divide Gravina Island. In it are innumerable
rocks and rocky islets. Northward of this the shores trend N.N.W. 5 mlU,^,
and then about N.W. 20 miles to Point Vallenar. The shores of the Gra' ina
Islands are of moderate height, and covered with wood.

The southern entrance to the Duke of Clarence Strait lies between Cape
Northumberland on the East, and Cape de Chacon on the West. This latter
cape is the S.E. point of the Prince of Wales Archipelago, and bears
S.W. i S. from the former, about 25 miles distant, in lat. 54° 43', long.
131° 54'. About 3 miles southward of the cape is an extensive reef, on
which the sea breaks heavily. Capt. Brundige says the cape should not be
approached within 5 miles, except in clear weather.

About 9 miles northward of Cape de Chacon is the entrance to Gardner
Harbour, a small indentation in the coast, about a mile in extent, in which
there is anchorage. The first considerable opening on the western shore of

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600

THE COAST OF ALASKA.

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the strait, North of Cape de Chacon, is Moira Sound, which takes a south*
westerly direotion. From this sound the western shore takes a N.N.W.
direction, and fonna some bays. The largest of these, situated in lat. 55° 8',
has, in and before it, several smaller islets, the outermost being by far the
largest, &nd as it in many points of view resembled a wedge, it was called
Wedye Island ; off its South point lie.s a ledge of dangerous rocks. The land
iu the neighbourhood of Moira Sound is high, and rather steep to the sea ; but
beyond Wedge Island the straight and compact shores are more moderately
elevated, and the interior country is composed of lofty, though uneven moun-
tains, producing an almost impenetrable forest of pine trees, &om the water-
side nearly to their summits.

At 8 miles N.W. f N. of Wedge Island is a projecting point, in lat. 55° 16^,
and to the West of this is Cholmondeley Sound, which extends to the south-
ward, divided into several branches. Some small islands lie to the N.W. of
the entrance. On the eastern side of the entrance was the Eussian settlement,
Chaiintzeff, off which there is anchorage.

Point Grindall bears from Cape Caanaano S.W. by S. J S. about 5 miles
distant, with some rocks anJ breakers extending about a mile northward of it.
Grindall Island lies about a mile to the N.E. From Point Grindall an inlet,
named Casaan Bay, runs 13 miles W. by S. ^ S., having at its head the fishing
station named Baranovitch. Here the tide rises about 1 6 ft.

The strait up to this part varies from 3J to 1 1 miles in width ; and, with the
exception of the dangers immediately adjacent to the shores, is open and clear
throughout.

From Cape Caamano to Point Le Mesurier the coast first treuds W. J N., 6
miles, and then N.W. ^ W., 15 miles ; about half-way between these points is
a small island, with a passage between it and the eastern shore. Point Le
Mesurier projects from the main land to the west svavd, and has some isletti and
rocks extending about a mile from it. Opposite to Point Le Mesurier m Point
Onslow, N.W. by N. i N., 5^ miles distant, and between these points is the
entrance of an inlet, nearly as extensive as the one it enters, named Prince
Ernest Sound (after the Duke of Cumberland, afterwards King of Hanover).
Point Onslow is the South extreme of the island or islands forming the Duko
of York Archipelago.

The continental shore from Point Le Mesurier trends N. i E. to a point 12
miles distant, and is indented with bays. The opposite shores then incline
more to the eastward from this point ; and 4 miles to the northward of it is
the South point of an island thence extending N.W. 5 miles, leaving a tfllorably
good channel between it and the East shore. At 7^ miles N. by W. i W.
from the bay within the South end of the island is Poitit IVarde, iu lat. 56° 9'.
The western shore is irregular in its direction, and much broken; opposite the
island it is 6 miles distant.

From Point Worde the coast takes a sharp turn N.E. } N., 4 miles, to a

WRANGEL— FORT STIKINE.

601

to a

point where the ohaonel divides into two branches ; the easternmost extends
N.E. by E. about 10 miles, terminating in the usual way, and named Bradfield
Canal, The main branch extends in a N.W. by W. direction, 1 1 miles, to a
point in lat. 56° 22', where it again divides into two branches. This part of
the passage is not more than three-quarters of a mile broad, with an island and
two islets at the entrance from Bradfield Canal. At the North end the main
channel, before which lie several rocks and small islets, is not more than a
quarter of a mile wide, extending irregularly to the N.W. and S.W., forming
a passage about 3^ miles long to Point Maclan, where the channel is more
spacious, and again bifurcates, one branch trending to S.E. by S. through a
broken insulated region, the other stretching to the north-westward, nearly 2
miles wide. In this direction it proceeds about 16 miles to a very conspicuous
point, in lat. 56° 33', named Point Highfield, the northernmost point of Wrangel
Island, where the channel again appears to divide into two branches, to the
N.W. by N. and S.W. Between the North end of Wrangel Island and the
small Simonoff Island, 4 cables distant, anchorage will be found in 9 to 13
fathoms.

Etoline Harbour is on the western side of the North end of Wrangel Island,
3 miles S.E. of Highfield Point; lat. 56° 31' N., long. 132" 21^' W.

WBANOEL, one of the six military posts of the United States, is pleasantly
situated at Etoline Harbour. The scenery around is very fine, backed by lofty
snowy mountains. The buildings erected are most substantial, and th^re is a
large Indian village in the immediate vicinity.

Fort Stikine, near the mouth of the river, was originally founded by the
Russian- American Company, and in 1 842 was transferred to the Hudson's Bay
Company, on a lease of 10 years. The establishment, of which the site had not
been well selected, was situated on a peninsula barely large enough for the
necessary buildings ; while the tide, by overflowing the isthmus at high water,
rendered any artificial extension of the premises almost impracticable ; and the
slime that was periodically deposited by the receding sea was aided by the
putridity and filth of the native villages in the neighbourhood, in oppressing
the atmosphere with a most nauseous perfume. The harbour, moreover, was
80 narrow, that a vessel of 100 tons, instead of swinging at anchor, was under
the necessity of mooring stem and stern ; and the supply of fresh water was
brought by a wooden aqueduct, which the savages might at any time destroy,
from a stream about 200 yards distant.

The apparent opening to the northward of Point Highfield is entirely closed
by a shoal extending across it from Point Rothsay on the East or continental
shore, to Point Blaquiere on the opposite side, on the edge of which there is
only 6 and 9 ft. water. To the South of this shoal, and in its immediate vicinity,
are four small islands and two or three islets ; one of the former upon the shoal,
and the others, at the distance of 4 J miles from Point Highfield, extend to the
North Pacijic. 4 H

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602

THE COAST OF ALASKA.

S.W. of it. This shoal is very steep-to, and, by its connection with the adjoin-
ing land, it may be said to make the latter form a portion of the continent.

The BIVER STIKINE, Stachine, or Pelly River, enters this part of the
inland navigation, and has formed the shoal above mentioned, which thus
closes its entrance, but it is probable that local enterprise and knowledge will
Bhow a useful channel into it. The Stikine empties itself into the ocean by two
channels, respectively 4 and 8 miles distant from the fort. The latter is navi-
gable for canoes ; while the other, though only in the season of high water, can
be ascended by the steamer about 30 miles. Gold has recently been found in
this district.

The establishment is frequented by the Secatquonays, who occupy the main
land about the mouths of the river, and also the neighbouring islands. Most
of these Indians make trading excursions into the interior, in order to obtain
furs. Their grand emporium is a village, 60 miles distant from Dease's Lake,
and 150 miles from the sea, and thither they resort three or four times a year. —
Sir George Simpson,

The North shore of the principal arm leading from the mouth of Stikine
River now takes a direction of S.W. by W. for 14 miles to Point Howe, The
Bhores are indented with small bays, with some small islets ; the opposite, or
South shore, is about 3 miles distant ; and, to the westward of Point Craig,
lying from Point Howe East, 7 miles, the shore appears firm and compact ; to
the eastward of it, it is much broken and divided. From Point Howe the shore
rounds in a westerly direction to Point Alexander, the eastern point of the
entrance to Duncan Canal, which stretches irregularly N. W. by N. and W.N.W.
to its termination in a shallow bay, bounded to the North by a low sandy Hat,
in lat. 66° 58'. The entrance is formed into two channels by Woewodski Island;
the easternmost, named Wrangel Channel, is a narrow passage running north-
ward into the eastern end of Prince Frederick Sound, with a rock nearly in the
centre of its southern entrance. It first trends N.W. by N. for 6 mik-s, nnd
here it communicates with the more spacious western branch, about 2 miles
wide, on the western side of the island, the channel passing South of Point
Hood, in lat. 56° 40J'. From Point Hood, Wrangel Channel trends 4J miles
N. by E. to a low place producing very long grass, passing through broken
land, the depth varying from 2 to 6 fathoms. Hence the channel curves in a
general N.W. by N. direction, 9 miles, to Frederick Strait, its northern
entrance.

Point Mitchell forms the S.W. point of Duncan Canal, and is opposite the
opening of the southern branch of the Duke of Clarence Stroit, the descrip-
tion of which we will resume from the point where Prince Ernest Sound
diverges from it.

Point Onslow, as before mentioned (page 600), is the North point of the en-
trance of Prince Ernest Sound ; and from this to Point Stanhope, the next pro-
jection on the eastern shore of the channel, the distance is 15 miles to W.N.W.,

' the en-

DUKE OP CLARENCE STRAIT— PORT rROTECTION. 603

some islets lying off the interyening broken coast. The coast then extends
N.W., about 9 miles, to Point Harrington, 3^ miles southward of which is a
small island, having on the North side tolerable anchorage, close under the
shores of Etoline Island, in Steamer Bay. The soundings are irregular, and
the bottom is rocky in parts.

Point Neshitt, the high South point of Zarembo Island, is in lat. 56° 13', and
bears from Point Harrington Wesi, .:bout 6 miles, the interval forming the
opening to Stachinski Strait, which trends northward towards the entrance of
Stachine or Stikine River. Off Point Harrington, and nearly in mid-channel,
is a cluster of low rocks ; and a ledge also extends southward of Point Nesbitt.
These seem very dangerous, as most of them are only visible at low water.

Bushy Island, which lies in the channel to the westward of Point Nesbitt,
is about 2 miles long, having off its shores, on both sides, some detached rocks,
but leaving between it and the eastern shore a navigable channel, extending
westward to between Point Macnamara on the East, and Point Colpoyt on the
West ; the latter bearing W.S.W. 6 miles from the former. Here the channel
enters from the north-eastward, as before described, and bears to the westward
and southward, through Duke of Clarence Strait, to the ocean. Point Mitchell,
the S.W. point of Kuprianoff Island, on the S.W. side of the entrance to
Duncan Canal, is the point on the North shore opposite to Point Colpoys, and
is 9 miles distant. The northern shore of this branch of the strait extends
S.W. J W. to Point Barrie, a distance of 19 miles. In that space are in-
numerable rocks ; and nearly midway between the two points there is a large
bay.

The southern shore forms the North coast of the Prince of Wales Archi-
pelago, and the distance between Point Colpoys and Point Baker, its East
and West extremes, is 16 miles. Just to the south-westward of Point Baker,
which is in lat. 56^ 21' 30", long. 133° 33', on an islet close to the shore, is an
excellent harbour. Port Protection, which afforded Vancouver an asylum when
he little expected it, amidst impending dangers, in September, 1793.

POET PROTECTION will be most readily found by attending to the fol-
lowing directions. It is situated at the N.W. extremity of the Prince of
Wales Archipelago ; its southern extreme comprises the base of a very remark-
able barren peaked mountain, named Mount Colder, which is conspicuous in
many points of view. An islet close to the shore forms the N.E. point of en-
trance, from whence the opposite point lies South, three-quarters of a mile
distant ; the channel is good, and free to enter, yet there is one lurking rock,
visible only at low tide, lying in a S.S.E. direction from the islet, 3 cables
distant ; it is clear all round, and indicated by weeds. There is also an irregu-
lar bank north-westward of the entrance, with from 15 to 32 fathoms ; this,
with the meeting of the tides around the Prince of Wales Archipelago, oauseb
»n agitation, or race, especially at the flood tide, bvt Uiere ii ao danger, th«
depth being very great.

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THE COAST OF ALASKA.

The harbour takes a general direction from its entrance E. by S. i S. for 2^
miles, and its navigable extent is from 5 to 3 cables in width, beyond which it
terminates in small shallow coves. The depth is rather irregular, from 30 to
60 fathoms ; the shores are in most places steep and rocky, and are covered
with an impenetrable forest of pine and other trees. They afford several streams
of fresh water ; some fish and fruit were found, as also wild fowl. The tides
appear to be irregular, but come from the South, and it is high water 7^ 40"
after the moon passes the meridian.

Points Baker and Barrie form, as before stated, the western extremes of the
branch of Duke of Clarence Strait, which trends E.N.E. and W.S.W. West-
ward of this the strait takes a southerly direction to the Pacific, and the
western shore of this portion is formed by the southern end of an island called
Kou Itland by the Russians, which is singularly intersected by deep bays and
inlets, and the shores of which are bestrewed with innumerable rocks, Mrith a
narrow channel separating it from the main, so full of rocks and dangers that
it certainly is not navigable.

The western shore of the strait bears from Point Barrie in a West direction,
but between is Conclusion Itland, about 3^ miles long, N.W. and S.E. Be-
tween Point Baker and Conclusion Island, distant from the former 4 miles,
and close to Point Barrie, is a smaller island, low, and about 2 miles long
N.W. by N. and S.E. by S., with a ledge of very dangerous rocks extending
from its South point. At 2^ miles westward of this is another island, with two
smaller ones off its South point. From hence the coast takes an irregular
direction about S.E. by S. ^ S. to a point in lat. 56" 17', forming the N.E.
point of entrance into Port Beauclerc.

Fort Beaaolero is of easy access and egress, free from every obstruction but
such as are sufficiently evident to be avoided. The opposite point of entrance
lies S.W. by S., 2 miles distant ; and from the points of entrance it extends
N.W. by W. 4i miles, and S.W. by S. 2 miles. Nearly in the middle is a
small island and some rocky islets, and a rocky islet with some rocks lies
before its entrance, S.E. by E., 1^ mile from the N.E. point of the entrance. The
surrounding shores are in general moderately elevated, and well covered with
wood, and water is easily procured.

Point Ameliua lies about 3 miles southward of the entrance of Port Beau-
clerc, and here the coast forms a bay for about 3 miles to the westward, and
thence it takes a south-easterly direction, about 6 miles, to Point St. Albans,
which is a low '•ocky point, in lat. 66° 7', long. 133" 61'. Off this portion of
the coast, islets, rocks, and breakers extend about 3 miles. About 3 miles
northward of the point is a snug boat cove.

Affleck Canal extends to the N.W. by N. 16 miles, immediately to the
westward of Point St. Albans. Its eastern shore has rocks off it for the first
4i milee, and then becomes straight and compact to its termination in some
low land, through which flow some streams of fresh water. The eastern aidef

CAPE DECISION— PORT BUCARELI.

605

of the canal are mountainous, but not so steep as the interior country. The
western side, from half a mile to 2 miles distant, is moderately elevated, and is
indented by three large bays in its southern part.

CAPE DECISION, the South extreme of Eou Island, is a rery conspicuous
promontory, extending in a South direction into the ocean, in lat. 56^ 2' N.,
long. 134° 3' W. To S.S.E. of the cape are some islands; the largest. Coro-
nation Island, being about 20 miles in circuit. From the N.E. point of this
island, which bears S.E. 5^ miles from Cape Decision, is a range of rooky
islets extending to N. by W. ^ W., to within 1^ mile of the main land, the
space between them and the cape appearing free from interruption.

Cape Pole is the promontory on the western shore of the Prince of Wales
Archipelago, which forms, with Cape Decision, 1 1 miles to W. ^ S., the en-
trance to the Duke of Clarence Strait. Off Cape Pole is Warren Itland,
which is high ; and between it and the cape many lurking rocks were observed.
To the southward of it, also, and appearing to extend to a distance of 4 miles
from the island, are some clusters of very dangerous rocks. Nearly in mid-
channel, between Warren and Coronation Islands, there was no bottom at 120
fathoms.

Although the navigation of Clarence Strait may be free from danger, yet it
ought not to be used without much circumspection, as several rocks are marked
on the chart.

Of the coast of the Prince of Wales Archipelago we know but very little.
From Cape Pole the western shore of the Archipelago trends very irregularly
to the E.S.E., and at 6 or 7 miles from the cape is the entrance to Sachine
Strait, a narrow channel which, running in the same direction for more than 15
miles, insulates what was thought to be the main land of the chief island, and
terminates in Tonock Bay. The outer coast then trends to the S.S.W. for 20
miles to Cape Addington.

Cape Adding^n, which appears to be the next most remarkable promon-
tory to the South of Cape Pole, was so named by Vancouver, after the Speaker
of the House of Commons. It is very conspicuous, and is in lat. 55° 27' N.,
long. 133° 48' W.

Port Buoareli, a very extensive inland sea, lies at the back of and to the
south-eastward of Cape Addington. It was discovered by Ayala and Quadra,
the two Spanish navigators, who anchored here on August 16th, 1775, and
named it Puerto del Baylio Bucareli, in honour of the Mexican viceroy. It
seems also to be the same as Sea Otter Sound of Meares, and is formed by
several islands. They here took possession, in the name of his Catholic Majesty,
of all the country they saw, and all they did not oee. The unfortunate La
Perouse also explored it. The tide here rises 13 ft.

Cape 8an Bartolom is the West point of the entrance of this inland sea, and
is in lat. 56° 13', long. 133° 38', and is the South extremity of a long, narrow

1^^

606

THE COAST OF ALASKA..

' I

: I

peninsula, extending in a southerly direction, with some islets off it ; it is pro-
bably the Cape Barnett of Meares.

The entrance lies between Cape San Bartolom and the West coast of Suemez
Itland, 5i miles apart. There is anchorage in a bay on the N.W. side of
Suemez Island, at 8 miles within the entrance. To the N.E. of this it opens
out into a large bay, with many islands. On the N.E. side of this bay is a
settlement, called Kliavakhan, and to the S.E. it leads to Tlevack Strait, which
enters the N.W. part of Cordova Bay.

From Suemez Island the S.W. coast of the Archipelago extends to the S.E.
for 27 miles to Port Bazan, which is separated into two arms by an island, the
anchorage being in the southern arm. Cape Muzon, the S.E. point of the
Archipelago, is 12 miles to the East. Capt. Brundige states that it is a sharp,
barren, bluff point, with deep water close to it, and four small islands on its
N.E. side. To the northward of this cape is the entrance to Kaigahnee Strait,
between Dallis and Long Islands. There are two villages on Long Island, and
on the opposite shore is an indentation named American Bay. Near here the
channel is very narrow at Howkan Strait, leading to the South end of Tlevak
Strait. To the eastward of this, at the South end of Prince of Wales Island,
is the extensive bay called Port Cordova in the Spanish charts, and is the Port
Meares of that commander.

Baia Isle, or Wolf Rock, lying off the mouth of Port Bucareli, is one of the
most dangerous impediments to navigation on the exterior coast, and from these
circumstances it obtained from Vancouver its latter name. It is a very low,
flat, rocky islet, surrounded by rocks and breakers, which extend some distance
from it. It lies 13 miles S.E. i E. from Cape San Bartolom, 10^ miles from the
nearest point of the contiguous shore, and 8 miles N. by W. from San Carlos
Island. It was seen by the Spaniards in 1775, who called it Rasa, or low. By
Capt. Douglas it was called Forrester Island in 1786.

Ban Carloi is a small high island, the South point of which is in lat.
64" 48', long. 133° 30'. The channel between it and Wolf Rock appears to be
free from interruption. It was discovered by Ayala and Quadra, in August,
1775, and by them named San Carlos Island. It is called Douglas laland by
Meares and others, and Forrester Iilandhy Dixon and Vancouver, but its real
name must be that first applied by the Spaniards. It is very high, covered
with verdure, and visible about 60 miles off.

We now return to the northward.

CHBISTIAN SOUKD.— Between Cape Decision and Cape Ommaney, which
latte- is in lat. 66° 10', long. 134° 33^', and 16 miles distant from the former,
b Christian Sound, which forms the southern entrance to a very extensive in-
land navigation, extending in a remarkably straight direction to N.W. ^ N.,
through upwards of 3° of latitude, separating a series of large islands from the
contiiient of America. The principal of these are Chatham Strait, leading im«
mediately from Christian Sound to the northward ; Prince Frederick 8ott&d|

CHRISTIAN SOUND— PRINCE FREDERICK SOUND.

607

diverging eastward from it ; and Stephens Passage, which branches northward
out of the latter. These principal arms insulate the Sitka Islands (or ICing
George the Third Archipelago), Admiralty Island, and numerous subordinate
islands, which will be described in due order, commencing with the continentul
shores. Christian Sound is noticed again hereafter.

From Cape Decision the coast trends N.W. i N. about 15 miles to the
North point of Port Malmeshury. This is about 3 miles deep N. by W., and
then 3 miles S.E. by E., and has some islets and rocks in it ; notwithstanding
which it affords very excellent shelter in from 17 to 34 and 12 fathoms water,
and is conveniently situated towards the ocean. The North point, called
Point Harris or Gams, is rendered very remarkable by its being a projecting
point, on which is a single hill, appearing from many points of view like an
island, with an islet and some rocks extending nearly a mile to the southward
of it. At 7 miles farther northward is the South point of a large bay full oi
innumerable islets and rocks, the N.W. point of which, Point Ellis, is in lat.
66° 31', long. 134° 15'. Point Sullivan, which is the next point in the main
inlet to the northward, is in lat. 56° 38', and East of this, also, is an inlet full
of rocks and islets. From Point Sullivan the shores to the northward are less
rocky, taking a direction of N.W. f N. 13 miles, to Point Kingsmill, which is
conspicuous.

Point Kinpsmill is the S.W. point of Prince Frederick Sound, the opposite
point of entrance being Point Gardner, the S.W. extreme of Admiralty Island.
This sound extends to the N.N.E. and E.N.E.

PRINCE FEEDERICK SOUND.— From Point Kingsmill to Point Corn-
wallis the bearing and distance are N. by E. i E. G^ miles, the space between
being occupied by two bays, each taking an easterly direction, 1 or IJ mile
wide, and 4 or 5 miles deep, and containing many islets and dangerous rocks.
The northern bay is named Saginaw, and the southern one Security Bay.
The entrance of the latter is about half a mile wide between the South
point and some islands lying on a flat on the North side, and here there is
good anchorage in 12 fathoms. Farther in there is anchorage in 10 fathoms,
off the village on the North side, and northward of Cleft Island. The tide
rises here about 14 ft.

To the eastward of Point Comwallis are Kiku Islands and Strait; the West
shore of the latter trends to the S.S.E. 9 miles, from the northern Kiku Island,
and from this point Port Camden, an inlet about 1^ mile wide, runs in a
S. by E. direction 12 miles, to within 2 miles of the head of the inlet N.N.E.
of Point Ellis, previously mentioned. The shores of Port Camden are pretty
free from islets and rocks, but those to the N.W. of it are lined with them, and
render the approaching of it extremely dangerous, and its southern extension
is perfectly unnavigable for shipping. Coal has been found in a bay on its
eastern shore.

The peninsula of Kou Island, which is connected with the more eastern land

'"' f > *

G08

THE COAST OP ALASKA.

i: !

i' !

by the last-mentioued narrow iathmus, it bj no means so high or mountainous
as the land composing the adjacent countries on the opposite or north-eastern
side of the sound, which at no great distance consists of very lofty, rugged,
dreary, barren mountains, covered with ice and snow.

Point Macartney, the N.E. point of Kiku Strait, is a large, roimding,
though not lofty promontory, in which are several small open bays, and near it
several detached rocks. From hence the shore of Kuprianoff Island trends
N.N.W. about 3^ miles, where the width of the sound is about 6 miles across
in a W.N.W. direction, to Point Nepean. From this station, North, 3 miles
distant, lies Povorotny Island, a small island, with patches of rock from this
point reaching nearly to its shores.

The promontory still takes a winding direction about N.E. 5 miles farther,
from whence the southern shore of the sound extends E. by N. ^ N. 17 miles,
to the West point of Ptrenosnaia Creek, the only opening in the shore from
Point Macartney. This cove extends S.E. about 3 miles, forming a narrow
isthmus, 2 miles across, from the head of Duncan Canal (p. 602), anot^'>r
striking instance of the extraordinary insular state of this region.

Point Gardner, as before mentioned, is the S.W. extreme of Admiralty
Island, and forms the N.W. point of the entrance to Prince Frederick Sound.
To the eastward of the point ore two anchorages, both bad in S.E. weather,
but good in northerly gales. The one nearest the point is. called Surprise
Harbour, and the eastern one Murder Cove, the Indians having murdered
some traders here. Uff the point, in an E.S.E. direction, lie some rocks and a
small island, Yasha ; the former at the distance of three-quarters of a mile,
and the latter 3 miles distant. The coast hence rounds irregularly to Point
Townsend, a distance of 11 miles ; off the intervening projecting points are
some rocks. At 6 miles N.E. by N. from this is Point Nepean, situated in lat.
570 10', long. 134° 3'. It is a high, steep, bluff, rocky point, and off it lies a
ledge of rocks about half a mile. At 3 miles to the North of it, on the eastern
side, is Woewodtki Harbour. From this the coast takes a more northerly
direction, or N. by E. lOJ miles, to Point Pybus ; the coast between is much
indented with small bays, and vast numbers of islets and rocks both above and
beneath the water. It is in general but moderately elevated ; and although it
is composed of a rocky substance, produces a very fine forest, chiefly of pine.
Northward of this is a large channel, called Stephens Passage. Prince Frederick
Sound continues to the eastward and south-eastward.

Cape Fanshaw, which is the point of the mainland opposite, and forming
the angle at which the two channels diverge, is low and projecting, but very
conspicuous ; in lat. 57° 11', long. 133° 25'. The branch is here 8 miles wide,
and its northern shore takes a course E. ^ N., 16 miles, to a low, narrow point
of land 2i miles long, and half a mile broad, stretching to the S.E. by S.,
called Point Vandeput. Here the breadth of the branch decreases to 3^ miles
in a South direction, to a steep bluff point ; from this part the branch takes a

<a —-

PRINCE FRICDEIIICK SOUND— STEPHENS PASSAGE.

COO

more Boutherly course. A •hoal extends about a mile S.E. by S. of Point
Vandeput. At 8 miles to the N.N.R. of the point is a mountain with a re<
mnrkable stone on its summit, named the DeviPi Thumb. There is anchorage
in the bay westward of the point, nnd on its East side a small bay is formed,
from whence the eastern shore trends S.E. 9 miles to another point, off which
a shoal extends about three-fourths of a mile. There is a large glacier just
above this point. The shore hero is a small extent of flat land, lying at
the foot of the lofty mountains, which rise abruptly to a great height imme-
diately behind the border. A few miles to the South of this margin the
mountains extended to the water-side, when a part of them presented an un-
commonly nwful appearance, rising with an inclination towards the water to a
vast height, loaded with an immense quantity of ice and snow, and overhang-
ing their base, which seemed insufficient to bear the ponderous fabric it sus-
tained, and rendered the view of the passage beneath it horribly magnifloent. —
(Vancouver, vol. iii, pp. 282-3).

At about 20 miles to the E.S.E. of this, after passing Souohoi Channel, the
head of the inlet appears closed by a beach extending all round the head of it.
At high water this becomes a shallow bank, with an island on it, being the
delta of the Stikine River, described on page 602.* At high water it is covered,
and by means of this channel an inland navigation for canoes nnd boats is found
from the southern extremity of Admiralty Inlet, in lat 47° 3', to the North
extremity of Lynn Canal, in lat. 59° 15' N., long. 135° 21' W.

It was observed by Whidbey, during Vancouver's survey, that in no irae
instance, during his researches, either in the several branches of Prince
William Sound, in those extending from Cross Sound, or in the numerous
branches about Admiralty Island, did he find any immense bodies of ice on the
islands. He likewise observes, that all the islands, or groups of islands, were
land of a moderate height, when compared with the stupendous mountains
which compose the continental boundary, whilst the land to the westward of
the passage assumed a more moderate height, was free from snow, and produced
a forest of lofty pine trees. — Vancouver, vol. iii, pp. 282-3.

STEPHENS PASSAGE, which is over 95 miles in length, opens into Prince
Frederick Sound, between Point Pybus and Cape Fanshaw, which are 15 miles
asunder ; but it should be remembeied that its ncrth- western end is rocky, in-
tricate, and very dangerous for shipping in the entrance into Lynn Canal, ab
hereafter shown.

At 6J miles N.N.W. from Cape Fanshaw is Port Houghton. There is a
settlement on the coast, and many rocks line tlie shores. The South point of

* Prince Frederick Sound was so named by Vancouver after the late Duke of York, on
whose birthday his three years' survey of this desolate coust waa here brought to a conclu-
non.

North Paeifie.

THE COAST OF ALASKA.

the hArl)onr is Point Walpole, near which are tome islets and lunlcen rouks.
Its North point is Point Hobart, N.W. by N. 3 miles from the other, and from
which extends a bank of sand a little distance from the shore, but leaving a
clear passage between it and the islets into the port. It extends E.N.E. 6 or
6 miles, and is bounded by lofty mountains, forming the shores of a snug
harbour, with soundings of 10 to 6 fathoms a considerable distance from the
phore, sand and muddy bottom. It was entered, however, at night, by Com-
mander Meade, U.S.S. Saginaw, and he could find nothing less than 80 fathoms
clof J to the rocks, and was forced to go out again. From Point Hobart to
Point Windham the bearing and distance are N.W. J W. 12 miles. Opposite
to Point Windham is Point Hugh, of Admiralty Island, and here periiaps it
may be considered that Stephens Possnge more properlj- begins.

At 3 miles South of Point Hugh is Point Gambier, and this latter is North
4J miles from Point Pybus, previously mentioned. Between the two former
points is the entrance to Seymour Canal, which extends into Admiralty Island,
N.W. by W. i W. 29 miles from Point Hugh to its head, in lat. 57" 51', At
its entrance it is from 2 to 3 miles wide, which gradually increases towards its
head to 6 miles, and at its termination is a small brook of fresh water. In its
northern part are cwo islands and numerous islets. The adjacent country is
moderately high, and covered with timber of large growth, excepting towards
Point Hugh, which is a lofty rocky promontory, from whence extends a ledge
of rocks, on which the sea breaks with considerable force.

Point Hugh forms the South extreme of a long, narrow peninsula, dividing
Seymour Canal from Stephens Passage. The S.W. coast of this passngo,
which is here about 5 miles in breadth, is nearly straight, compact, and free
from rooks or other interruptions up to a high round island lying in the middle
of the channel, in lat. 58° 3', from which the western shore extends N.W. 8
miles to Point Arden, where the branch divides into three arms, the principal
one directed to the westword.

The eastern shore of the passage, up to this part, is composed of a compact
range of stupendous mountains, chiefly barren, and covered with ice and snow,
but affording some inlets. From Point ^Vindham, on the South, to Point Astley,
10 miles to N.W. by N., the shores are very rocky. The latter is the South
point of a deep bay, about 4 miles wide, named Holkham Bay, An island lies
midway in its entrance, and towards this a shallow bank extends from both
sides. Within this are three other islands, and much floating ice was seen
within them. The tide here rises about 12 ft. About 2^ miles S.W. of
Point Coke, its North point, is the southernmost of two small rocky islets, nearly
in the middle of the passage ; and the eastern shore trends from it N.W. by W.
9 miles to Point Anmer, the South point of Fort Snettisham.

Fort Snettisham first extends about 4 miles from its entrance in a N. by E.
direction, where on each side the shores form an extensive cove, terminated by
a sandy beach, with a fine stream of fresh water. Northward of Point Style-

ik i^ Ui

Sr.PHENS PASSAGE— TAKO ARM.

man, on the N.W. side of the entrance, which is inlat. 57° 63', long. 133° 47'.
is a small cove, in which there is also a run of water, with an islet lying hefore
it. The shores are high and steep, and produce very few trees. From Point
Styleman the coast x-ends N.W. by W. J W. 12 miles towards the high
round island, before mentioned ; this part is much indented with small bays.

Taco, or Takou, formerly a Hudson Bay Company's eRtabliwhracnt, formed
in 1841, is on a little harbour 9 miles from Point Styleman, almost landlocked
by mountains, and partially exposed only to the S.E. One of the hillt), neat
the fort, terminates in the form of a canoe, which serves as a barometer. A
shroud of f' ; indicates rain; but the clear vision of the eunoe itself is a sign
of fair weather. In 1869 the fort was in ruins, and the settlement deserted.

Take Arm, — Opposite to Point Arden, on the West shore, is the mouth ol
the arm leading to the N.N.W. from Stephens Passage. Its West point of
entrance is Point Saliahury ; about 3 miles N.E. of this is the settlement of
2akou, off which there is anchorage, and it extends about N.N.W. 13 miles,
when the shorcj spread to East and West, and form a basin about 4 miles
broad, and 6 n;:!c? long, East and West, with a small island lying nearly at its
N.E. extrem'*v. From the shores of this basin a compact body of ice extended
some distance nearly all round at the time of Vancouver's visit ; and the adja-
cent region is composed of a closely united continuation of the lofty range of
frozen mountains, exhibiting as dreary and inhospitable an aspect as the imagina-
tion can possibly suggest. The rise and fall of tide here were very considerable,
appearing to be upwards of 18 ft.

lue River Taco or Taken, falling into the gulf to which it gives its name,
according to Mr. Douglas, who ascended it about 35 miles, pursues a serpentine
course between stupendous mountains, which, with the exception of a few
points of alluvial soil, rise abruptly from the water'* edge. In spite of the
rapidity of the current, the savages of the coast asccad it 100 miles in canoes.
The tribes who live on the coast between this and Port Houghton are known
as the Sundowiu and Takos, and are treacherous and mostly hostile, numbering
about 500.

From Point Arden, Stephens Passage takes a general course of W. by N. i N.,
and is about 3 miles in width. About 15 miles along the South shore is
Point Youny, forming the East point of Auke Harbour. From here the width
of the arm decreases to about 1 mile, and the South shore stretches W. J N.
7 miles to another cove with an islet lying near it. At 4J miles N.W. by N.
from this cove is the West point of Douglas Island, so named after the then
Bishop of Salisbury, and forms the North side of this portion of the passage.
It is about 20 miles long, and 6 miles broad in the middle, and separated from
the continent by a narrow channel, named Gastineaux, nearly always impass-
able firom the ice. About 7 miles from the entrance of this passage, on ita
East side, is the mining town of Juneau or Ilarritburg, where many gold ledges
)iave b«en discovered. Qold has also beeu found on Douglas Island, and in th^

♦ •

Ill

612

THE COAST OP ALASKA.

Mme ^neighbourhood there ia stated to be a large deposit of silver oie. The
Nortt-VVest Trading Company had a store here in 1883.

To the W.N .W. of this part is a rocky and intricate portion of the passage,
very dangerous for the navigation of sailing ships, so that the communication
between it and the large channel to the N. W. and West of it is impeded. It
is, however, navigable for steamers.

At the N.AV, extremity of Douglas Island is Frtfx Cove, in lat. 58" 19' X.,
long. 134° 47' W. The shore at the middle of the cove is low, and just back
of the beach it is marshy. Entrance Point, the North point, is about 75 ft.
high, and covered with trees. There is anchorage southward of this point, in
12 fathoms, formerly used by the Hudson Bay Company's steamers. Tho
holding-ground is good, being sticky mud. The rise and fall of the tide ob-
served was 14 ft. Shoal water appears to extend 1 J cable off the shore.

The channel beyond the N.W. point of Douglas Island is divided into two
branches by Shelter Island, a very narrow island, about '^ J miles long, and
half a mile broad. The passage on its N.E. side may be considered as next to
impassable for shipping without a pilot, by the rocks and islets at its S.E. end.
Saginaw Channel, the other passage, is equally unsafe and intricate, from the
same cause, but is safe for steamers. The Saginaw passed through without a
pilot in March, 1869, and without any trouble. A reef, lying about three-
quarters of a mile westward of the S.E. end of Shelter Island, is the only
known hidden danger.

To the S.S.W. of the North end of the above island is Point Retreat, the
northernmost point of Admiralty Island, in lat. 58° 23', long. 135" 0', and
having a reef extending one-third of a mile W. by N. from it. About 3 miles
westward from Point Retreat, in the southern channel, is a deep cove. Barlow
Cove, which, with Shelter Island lying before it, forms a very snug harbour, of
good access by the passage round to the North of Point Retreat, as the rocky
part of the channel lies to the East of it. To the West of Point Retreat and
Admiralty Island is that extensive branch named by Vancouver al^er the noble-
man, Chatham Strait, to the South opening of which we will now return.

CHATHAM STEAIT.— Cape Decision, the S.E. point of entrance, has been
before described (page 605). It was so named by Vancouver, from his having
BO far decided that the great openings stated to exist by De Fonte, De Fuca,
and others, did not exist — a conclusion he was scarcely warranted in making,
inasmuch as a more careful attention to their narratives shows some ^ruvu,
although much alloyed with the fabulous.

The other point of entrance is Cape Ommaney, the Soutb extremfly of the
Sitka Archipelago; it was so named by Capt. Colnctt, Off if; lies an isii.t called
Wooden Rock, from one of Vancouver's men having been drowned here.

The opening between Capes Ommaney and Decision was named by Colnett
Christiaa Sound, and off the opening is a group of small rooky islets, about 3
jniles iu extent, called Hazy hlandt. They Ue S.£2. | 8. 16 mile» iron, Capo

CHATHAM STRAIT— KOOTZNAHOO.

613

Ommaney, S.W. by S. ^ S. 14 miles from Cape Decision, and 8 miles W.S.W.
of Coronation Island, which is the nearest land to them.

The eastern shore of the strai ;, from its southern point to the entrance ot
Prince Frederick Sound, has been before described (p. 607). Paint Gardner,
the North point of its entrance, is also the southern extremity of Admiralty
Island.

From Gardner Point the eastern shore of the strait runs about N, W. ^ N.,
13i miles, to a sharp point, north-eastward of which is the entrance to While
Water Bay, an inlet extending 3^ miles Eaat, the water shoaling to 6 fathoms
near its head. On the North side of the entrance is a village, and about l^mile
southward of the southern point is the dangerous Eussian Reef,

Between the North point of the bay and Hood Bay, about 9 thiles to
N.W. by N, J N., the shore is indented by two bays. Hood Bay, which is
about 4i miles across to Point Sayinaw, has some islands nearly in its centre,
and on its North side is Kenaanow hhmd, 3^ miles long E. by N. and W. by S.,
with a reef extending off each end. On the North aide of this island arc
Kootznahoo Roads, from whence there is communication with Koteosok Har-
bour, at the North end of Hood Bay, by means of a narrow channel, with 4^ to
f> fathoms water in it, between Point Saginaw and the island. The approach
to this harbour from Hood Bay has some islets and rocks in it, and was not ex-
amined. On the East end of Kenaanow Island a trading post has lately be«n
erected.

SOOTZjef AHOO or KnahnoTi is an Indian settlement, about I J mile E.N.E.
of Danger Point. The tribe of Indians which gave it the name were about
800 in number, and had a bad reputation. Opposite the village is a large bank
of shoal water, separating it from the roads, and within this there is anchorage
in 12 fathoms off the village. Saginaw Point, li mile to S.E. by E., is the
proposed site of a fort.

Danger Point, the North point of the roads, has a reef extending about a
mile to N.W. of it, and is in lat. .57' 29' N., long. 134" 36' 50' W. Northward
of it is the entrance to a narrow but extensive inlet, wiiich runs in a N.N.E.
direction for about 12 miles, from which position a passage for canoes is re-
ported to exist into Seymour Channel, and thus separating Admiralty Island
into two peninsulas. This part is known as the Koohnahon Archipelago. In
the entrance of the channel, northward of Danger Point, theie is a depth of 10
fathoms, and about 4 miles within is Stillwater Anchorage. About 9 miles
above this, on the South shore, are some coal n\inefl.

At 3 miles N.W. of Diinger Point is Samuel Point, and at 7 miles farther is
Point Parker. The coast is indented into several small bays ; the shores are
low, and much divided by water. Beyond this, still following the same direc-
tion for 28 miles, is Point Martden, off which are some rocks. The land is
very moderately elevated, covered with fine timber, chiefly pine, and terminating
»t the wfltefside with alternate steep rocky cliffs and t<mt(ll saady baysj with a

hi'

115!

.»i

-I ,

ei4

THE COAST OP ALASKA.

few detached rocks near It. Hence to Point Retreat, which is the North ex-
tremity of Admiralty Island, before mentioned (p. 612), the distance is about
17 miles, the coast being nearly in the same direction, and of the same character,
as that more to the South.

ASMIBALTT ISLAND.— The shores of Admiralty Island, which have thus
been imperfectly described, are about 180 miles in circuit. With the exception
of its N.W. and S.E. parts, they are very bold, affording many convenient bays
likely to admit of safe anchorage, with fine streams of fresh water flowing into
them, and presenting an aspect very different from that of the adjacent conti-
nent, as the island in general, except at its N.W. end, is moderately elevated,
and produces an uninterrupted forest of very fine timber trees, chiefly of the
pine tribe ; whilst the shores of the continent, bounded by a continuation of
those lofty frozen mountains which extend south-eastward from Mount Fair-
weather, rise abruptly from the water-side, covered with perpetual snow,
and their sides are broken into deep ravines or valleys, filled with immense
mountains of ice. Notwithstanding that the island seems to be composed of a
rocky substance covered with little soil, and that chiefly consisting of vegetables
in an imperfect state of decay, yet it produces timber which was considered by
Mr. Whidbey to be superior to any he had before noticed on this side of
America. The ocean hereabouts, too, encroaches most rapidly on the low land.
The stumps of trees, in various stages of decay, still standing erect, are to be
found below high-water mark, and many of the low shores, now covered with
the sea, produced, at no very distant period, tall and stately timber.

LYNN CHANNEL.— The entrance of this inlet is between Point Marsden
and Point Couverden, 7 miles to W. by N. i N., and from thence it extends
50 miles in a N.W. by N. direction, branching off at its head into Chilcoot and
Chilcat Inlets. Lynn Canal was first made known and surveyed by Vancouver's
party, under Mr. Whidbey, in July, 1794, and was named by the commander
after his native town in Norfolk.

In 1880, the officers of theU.S.S. Jamettown made a reconnaissance of Lynn
Channel, and the information thus gained is inserted in the following descrip-
tion, but the chart will prove the best guide.

It receives a river, the Chilcat, which the Indians are stated to ascend about
60 miles to a valley running towards Mount Fairweather, and contiiining a
large lake, which pours its waters into the open ocean at Admiralty Bay. The
natives of this valley are called Chilcat or Copper Indians, from the abundance
of virgin copper in the neighbourhood. Both sides of the arm are bounded by
lofty, stupendous mountains, covered with perpetual ice and snow, whilst the
shores in the neighbourhood appear to be composed of cliffs of very fine slate
interspersed with beaches of paviug-stone. The channel varies from 4 to 8
miles in width, and has deep water throughout.

Near the junction of the waters of Lynn Channel, Crosa Sound, and Chatham
Sti'uit, ia Ilanue Heef^ a large reef lying 3 miles S.E. by E. \ E. from Point

P
J

t>-^

LYNN CHANNEL— WILLIAM HENRY HARBOUR.

C15

,i ^

and

ham

Couverden, and at low water the highest part was 7 or 8 ft. out of water. It
consisted of a series of detached rocks extending at least a quarter of a mile to
the eastward of the position occupied. A vessel must not approach this reef
nearer than a mile, for a strong 2 or 3-knot current sets right across it.

In the southern part of the inlet are several islands and islets. At the North
end of this group is Vanderlilt Reef, lying in mid-channel, which must have a
good berth given to it. It lies about 3 miles S. ^ E. from Bridget Point, the
South point of Berners Bay.

Favorite Channel leads to the S.E. by E. towards Stephens Passage. In
the course through this channel, entering from the northward and westward,
keep well over towards Point Bridget to clear Vanderbilt Reef, until a S.E. J S.
course will take you through in mid-channel between Lincoln and Sentinel
Islands. The sunken rock laid down on the old charts near Shelter Island, in
this channel, may exist, but Lieut. Symonds, U.S.S. Saginaw, passed at low
water very near, if not over its position, in a steamer drawing 11 ft. of water.

The channel was found to be clear until George Rock was reached. When
passing to the eastward of this rock, keep well over towards Spuhn Island
after passing Point Louisa. Fritz Cove, where there is anchorage, was de-
scribed on page 612.

Berners Bay is a large indentation on the eastern shore, about 4 miles across
in a S.S.E. direction, and about 5 miles deep to the northward. Point St.
Mary, in lat. 58° 42' N., forms the North point of the bay, and from thence
the eastern shore of the inlet trends in a compact manner to the N.W. by N.

William Henry Harbour.— At 7 miles W. by S. ^ S. of Point St. Mary,
and on the opposite side of the channel, is the eastern point of this excellent
harbour. To enter it, keep from one-half to three-quarters of a mile from the
western shore until abreast the entrance. This is necessary, as otherwise it is
very difficult to recognise the harbour. Strangers will be aided in finding it
by noting that the highest mountain in this vicinity, which has a rounded, bald
top, without trees, is just to the northward and westward of the entrance.
When the bay has opened well, head in for the inner part, and select a berth
at pleasure in from 9 to 13 fathoms, muddy bottom. Wood and water can be
obtained here. There is a wood depot on the West side of the bay. About
3£ miles N.W. by N. from the East point of the bay is Endicott River, the
mouth of which is filled with sand bars.

About 6 miles northward of Endicott River is the South end of Sullivan
Island, with an islet about half a mile off it. The channel between the island
and the western shore averages about \^ mile in width, but at its southern
end a shoal extends nearly from side to side. Sullivan Island is about <5
miles long and 1 mile broad, and northward of it the inlet diverges into two
branches.

Seduction Point is the South extremity of a peninsula, consisting of a narrow

J-^:?

. '•'-*.

; '.' V ■«

■■;J..

i's^^'ii-l

i t

616

THE COAST OF ALASKA.

strip of land, 1 or 2 miles across, dividing Chilcat and Chilooot Inlets. Reach-
ing for 2 miles S.E. of it are the Chilcat Islands.

CHILCAT INLET, the western arm, trends 11 mDes W.N.W. from Seduc-
tion Point, and then becomes blocked by flats, bare at low water, extending
from side to side. About midway up lies Veniosa Island, and 2 miles farther
on is Pyramid Islet in mid-channel, bare of trees, and sandy.

Pyramid Harbour, on the S.W. shore of the inlet, bears S. i W. from
Pyramid Islet. To reach it, when abreast Seduction Point keep about mid-
channel, giving the preference to the N.E. shore, as flats are said to make out
from the opposite side. After passing Ventosa Island, haul over for the western
shore, and you will be aided in recognising the harbour not only by Pyramid
Islet, but by the old bed of a glacier, which will appear like a sand-spit, just
to the southward of the anchorage. Haul in for the bight, and approach the
shore boldly, anchoring in from 11 to 15 fathoms, soft mud, excellent holding
ground. There is a village 4 miles above the harbour. — Master O. C. Nanus,
U.S.S. Jamestown, 1880.

A shorv; distance above Pyramid Island commence the flats and shoals in the
mouth of Chilcat River. In May, 1880, Lieut. McClellan, U.S.S. Jamestown,
searched ineffectually for several hours for a channel suitable for a launch
drawing about 3 ft. It is dangerous for any vessel to go beyond Pyramid Islet
without a local pilot. Above Pyramid Islet the water is perfectly fresh, and
from the edge of the shoal limiting the navigation the North shore is distant
3 miles, and through a small op eiiing a raoid stream of fresh water rushes over
the shoal.

Tondustek is an Indian village on the North shore of Chilcat Inlet, about 4
miles N.W. by N. of Pyramid Islet. When visited by Lieut. Symonds, U.S.S.
Jamestown, in 1880, the population amountv-ii to 171 Indians. The village is
on a wide, grassy, alluvial flat, having for its background a bold granite moun-
tain, whose precipitous peak was streaked in a remarkable manner by slides of
bright slaty granite, sand, and gravel.

Chilcat Elver. — Lieut. Symonds ascended this river in a canoe. After
leaving the village a course was shaped up the river against an opposing
current of at least 4 miles an hour.

The course from the village was S.W., and at 2 miles from it precipitous
wooded mountains, 2,000 ft. in height, rose on either hand. On the S.E. side
of the river are seen rugged and serrated mountain crests, covered with snow.
About 5 miles S.W. by S. from Tondustek, up the valley of a stream called
Takheen or Hindmost River, is the Bertha Glacier, resting on a southern
mountain slope, and reaching nearly to the surface of the river. At 2 j miles
farther on the course was altered to West, around Spuhn Point, where the
river is 1^ mile wide. Sand bars just awash were continually met, and the
average depth in the channel was only 2 ft.

IJfc;

CIIILCAT RIVER— CniLCOOT INLET.

617

Above Vanderbill Point, which bears West 2J miles from Spuhn Point, the
mud and sand flats, which fill the lower part of the river, were left behind,
and numerous low flat islands were met with, covered with trees. The current
is rapid, and increases in proportion as the channel between the islands narrows,
running at times 5 or 6 miles an hour. The average width of the river was
here 1 mile. Kuthcutlit village, 6 miles above Vanderbilt Point, had a popu-
lation of 123 Indians. From Camp Point, half a mile S.E. of this village, the
North bank trends 3 miles to the \V. by N. to Chilcat Point and Klukquan
village, where the river is 2 miles wide, and was alive with salmon. The clifla
on the banks are about 2,000 ft. in height. The village contained a population
of 558 Indians.

Above this village is the Taheen or King Salmon River, which was enterod
after rounding Chilcat Point. Nearly AVest of Klukquan village is a point,
on which is Chilcat Peak, 4,000 ft. high, where the Taheen, flowing from
W.N.W., and the Klttheeny or Dog-salmon, from S.W. by W., meet.

From every indication on the banks of the Chilcat River, Lieut. Symonds
concludes that, during the spring and summer freshet.s, the river never rises
more than 2 ft. above its level in September, which rarely exceeds 3 ft. in the
deepest part of the main channel.

CHILCOOT INLET is the eastern arm from the head of Lynn Canal. It
trends about 13 miles N.W. from abreast Seduction Point, and varies from IJ
to 2.J miles in width, terminating in low land, formed immediately at the foot
of high stupendous mountains, broken into deep guUeys, and loaded with per-
petual ice and snow. Near its head, on the West shore, is Portage Bay, M'here
the N.W. Trading Company have established a station, so named from the
canoe-portage, IJ mile in length, across the low peninsula to Chilcat River,
'I'he trading post is about 2^ miles from Tondustek village, and a Presbyterian
Mission was proposed to be established here.

To reach Portage Bay, when abreast of Sullivan Island haul over for the
N.E. shore of Lynn Canal, keeping about mid-channel until you open the
bay. Keep about a quarter of a mile from the South shore of the bay, and
anchor near it in from 9 to 15 fathoms water, muddy bottom.

Above Portage Pay two rivers enter the head of the inlet. Degea River,
the western one, is shallow, and is the outlet of Chilcoot Lake. The village of
Tananei, having 127 inhabitants in 1880, is at the junction of the river and
lake, about 4 miles from Portage Boy, Tgya Inlet enters the eastern side of
the inlet, and extends in a northerly direction to a shallow river of the same
name. There is reported to be plenty of water and good holding ground in
Tyyii Inlet.

■^■5*

i> '

North Pacific.

4 K

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1 1

i '

!l •

( CIS )

THE SITKA AECHIFELAOO.

The land forming this collection of islands, named by Vancouver King
Qeorge III. Archipelago, was first discovered by Alexoi Tschirikow, the second
in. command of the expedition under the unfortunate I3ehring, in 1741. This
was their third voyage, and they were separated by a storm soon after they
had set out on their voyage. Tschirikow directed his course to the East, from
the parallel of 48°, and, towards the middle of July, made the laid of America,
between the 55th and 56th parallels; but others place his landfall in 58°. The
coast which he found was steep, barren, guarded by rocks, and without a single
island that could afford shelter. He anchored off the coast, and detached his
long-boat, with orders to put on shore wherever she could land. Several days
elapsing without her reappearing, he despatched his other boat to gain tidings
of her, but the latter no doubt experienced the same fate as the former, and it
is unknown what became of either. Some canoes, manned by native Americans,
presented themselves a few days after, to reconnoitre the ship, but they durst
not approach her, and there remained on board no boat of any sort that could
be detached to join or pursue them, and prevail on them to come to the ship,
where they would have been detained for hostages. Tschirikow, despairing to
see again the men whom he had scut on shore, resolved to quit the coast, and
accordingly returned to Kamchatka. These discoveries became known to
France and Europe from the fact of Dclisle de la Croyere, one of the brothers
of the French savans, and Dr. Stoller, the naturalist, having accompanied
Tschirikow. Such was the first authentic discovery of North-West America,
which arose out of the original plans projected by Peter the Great, and subse-
quently carried into effect by the Empress Catharine. It has since been called
the Sitka Archipelago, from the tribe of Indians who inhabit it.

The lond in question, like Vancouver Island and others to the southward, was
then supposed to form part of the American continent ; and it was not until
Vancouver's expedition that Chatham Strait was discovered, and thus showed
the real nature of the land on the Pacific. Vancouver, too, as will be seen from
the preceding remarks, did not very minutely examine the western shore of the
strait to which he gave the name of his vessel, but just inferred that it was
penetrated by one or more channels leading to the open ocean, from the fact of
some of the natives being found in the strait who belonged to the other side of
the islands.

Capt. Urey Lisiansky, of the Russian navy, examined the group in 1805,
and, by his survey, it appears that it consists of four principal islands, viz.,
Jaccobi, Kruzoff or Croozc, Baranoff, and Chichagoff.

Although Vancouver examined the channels to the eastward of it, and the
Russians and Americans have surveyed, partially, the western coast of the

THE SITKA ARCHIPELAGO.

619

chief island, yet our acquaintance with its physical characteristics is still very
limited.

BARANOFF ISLAND is the southernmost, and is ahout 85 miles in length,
by about 20 miles in its maximum breadth. On its West side is Sitka or
Norfolk Sound, the principal place of resort in these seas, and the situation of
the head-quarters of the former Imperial Russian Company, and now a settle-
ment of the United States.

KBUZOFF or rrooze Island, the South extremity of which is formed by
Cape and Mount Edgcumbc, lies before Sitka Sound, and was so named by
Capt. Lisiansky, after the Russian Admiral. It is 18i miles in length, and
separated from BaranofF Island by Neva Channel. At its North extreme is
Klokachcvn Sound, Olga Gulf, or tlic Bay of Islands, which leads to Pogibshi
Channel, separating the two principal islands of the group, called by Lisiansky
Pagoohnoy or Pernicious Strait. It joins Chatham Sound, is deep, and derives
its name from a party of Aleutians having been poisoned there some years pre-
viously by eating mussels. Kruzoff Island is called Pitt Island in La Perouse's
and some other early charts.

CHICHAOOFF ISLAND is the next and northernmost large island, and is
about 60 miles in length. It is divided from Baranoif Island by the strait pre-
viously mentioned, and extends from it to Cross Soimd, which separates it from
the continent to the northward.

Jacobi Island, the fourth of those described by Lisiansky, lies at the N. W.
extremity of Chichagoff Island, and is about 10 miles in length. The narrow
passnge separating them was not explored by Lisiansky.

These islands are all well wooded, chiefly pine, larch, and cedar. The rivers
abound in excellent fish, and herrings swarm in the sounds every spring, with
fine cod and halibut at all seasons. The climate allows the growth of European
grain and vegetables, the summer being warm. The natives aro described as
brave, but extremely cruel.

CAPE OMMANEY, in lat 56° 10', long. 134° 33', is the South extreme of
the archipelago, and off it lies Wooden Rock. They have been alluded to before,
on page 612, as forming the S.W. entrance point of Chatham Strait.

Port Conclusion, — At 6 miles N. i W. from Cape Oramaney, on the eastern
coast of Baranoff Island, is the southern point of the entrance to Port Conclu-
sion, so called because it was here that Vancouver's vessels awaited the con-
clusion of the survey of this coast in August, 1794, having left England on the
1st of April, 1791, for that service. The North point of Port Conclusion bears
from the southern N.W. 2 miles distiint, and the depth of water in mid-channel,
between them, is 75 fathoms, but decreasing to 8 or 10 fathoms close to the
shores, without rocks or sands, except near the points. From its entrance to
its head the port extends about 3 miles South, free from any interruption,
although it is inconvenient from its great depth of water. The soundings cannot
be considered as very regular, yet in general they are good, in some places

:.m

•^M

•>*■]

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'1, '

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I ■

620

THE SITKA ARCHIPELAGO.

stony, in others snnd and mud ; but in the cove, where the vessels were «t
anchor, 1 1 mile within the South point on the other side, the bottom is rocky.
The head of this cove approaches within one-fourth of a mile of the head of
Port Alexander, another cove, whose entrance on the outside is about 2 miles
to the South of the South point of the harboiir, and has a depth of 7 fathoms
in it, with weeds growing across.

Port Armstrong, about half a mile S.W. from the North point of entrance, is
a most excellent and snug basin, about a mile long, and a third of a mile wide ;
but its entrance is by a very narrow but deep channel, half a mile in length, in a
S.W. direction, with some islets and rocks lying off its South points ; these are
steep, nearly close to them, as are the shores on both sides, which vary from n
sixth to a twelfth of a mile asunder, with a clear navigable passage from 8 to
12 fathoms deep in the middle, and 5 fathoms on the sides. The soundings
are tolerably regular in the basin, from 30 fathoms in the middle to 10 fathoms
close to the shores. Immediately within its North point is a fine sandy beach,
and an excellent run of water, as is the case also at its head.

The western shore of Chatham Strait was not minutely surveyed by Van-
couver's party. It follows a ncai-ly straight direction from Port Conclusion,
about N.W. i N. for 105 miles to Point Augusta, in lat. 58° Sf, long. 134° 58J',
preserving a nearly parallel direction to the opposite side, which varies from 5
to 9 miles distant.

This extensive arm, as far as was ascertained, is very free from danger, and
probably affords many places of refuge. The flood tide, although of short
duration, running not more than two hours, was regularly observed to come
from the South.* To the northward of Point Augusta the western shore
diverges more to the westward, while the eastern side beyond Port Marsden
still preserves tho same direction. Into the opening thus formed a peninsula
of the mainland projects to the southward, thus dividing it into two channels,
the principal being to the N.W., while that which continues on in a North or
West course is called Lynn Canal, previously described.

At 37 miles below Point Augusta is the entrance of Pogibshi Channel, on
the North side of which some reefs extend a long distance from the shore, and
are described hereafter. Siwash Channel, 17 miles below Point Augusta, is
said to be only navigable for canoes ; just to the northward of its entrance is a

* Mr. Whidbey considered that Chatham Strait was likely to be one of the most profit-
able places for procuring the skins of the sea-otter on the whole coast, not only from the
abundance observed in the possession of the natives, but from the immcnso numbers of
these animals scon about the shores in all directions. Here the aea-otters were in such
plenty thnt it was easily in the power of the natives to procure oa many as they chose to
be at the trouble of taking. They were also of extremely fine quality. — (Vancouver, vol,
iii, p. 264). Commander Muade, U.S.S. Saginaw, reports that in 1869 the otters had dis«
appeared from this strait.

POINT COUVERDEN— CROSS SOUND.

ftdl

large opening named Freihwaler Bai/, on the West side of which is Wachuaett
Cove, with a depth of 9 fathoms in it. '

Point Converden, the South extremity of the above peninsula, is in Int.
58° 12', long. 135" 4', and was so named after the seat of Vancouver's ancestors
in Holland. The continental shore in this neighbourhood constitutes a nan'ow
border of low land, well wooded with stately trees, chiefly of the pine tribe,
behind which extends a continuation of the lofty snowy mountains. About
half a mile S.E. of Point Couvcrden is an islet, and IJ mile N. by W. of the
point is one small island, the outermost of three or four rocky islets extending
in a line from the shore. Beyond this the western shore of the arm is firm and
compact, indented with a few coves, and some islets and rocks lying near it.
The eastern shore, described on pp. 614—615, presents a broken appearance.
Hanus Reef, 3 miles S.E. by E. J E. from Point Couverden, was also there
described.

Swanson Harbour, about 3 miles westward of Point Couverden, is sheltered
by Anslcy Island. It can only be entered from the East, the course from the
rocky islet off Point Couverden being about West. Off the S.E. point of
Entrance Island, which lies off the East end of Anslcy Island, a reef makes off
a quarter of a mile or more ; after passing these, steer about West for the
centre of the inner end of the harbour, and anchor opposite the western entrance
in from 8 to 10 fathoms, soft, sticky bottom. There is a passage between
Swanson Harbour and Lynn Canal, but this was not examined owing to the
short stay of the party from the U.S.S. Jamestown, 1880. " Sitka Jack," an
Indian chief, has a summer settlement here, and there is also a dep6t for wood.

CROSS SOUND. — From Point Couverden the continental shore takes a
somewhat irregular direction, W. by N., 20 miles, to a point off which lies a
low island, about 6 miles in circuit, with some islets extending about 4 miles
eastward of it, together named Pleasant or Porpoise Islands. All this shore is
reported by pilots to be foul for a distance of from 1 to 1^ mile from shore ; the
Indians, however, report that there are several safe anchorages.

The southern shore of this portion of the strait is of a more broken character
than the northern. From Point Augusta to Point Sophia, 15 miles to the
West, the coast is composed chiefly of rocky cliffs, with islets and detached
rocks lying at some distance from the shore. About midway between is
Spaskaii Harbour, a small cove, and at 2^ to 3 miles N. by E. J E. from Point
Sophia are the Sister Islands, nearly in mid-channel, with a reef, uncovering
at low water, a quarter of a mile off the South end of the eastern island.

Port Frederick. — Point Sophia is on the East side of the entrance to this

port, which is about 3 miles in width East and West, and thence extending

to the southward. On its eastern side is Hoonyah Harbour, which was visited

by the U.S.S. Jamestown, in 1880, and her officers give the following informa*

ion.

Halibut Rock, uncovering at low water, lies S.E. by S. ^ S. from the inner

••J

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622

THE SITKA ARCHIPELAGO.

island on the western side of the entrance to the port, distant about two-
thirds of a mile.

To reach Hoonyah Harbour, after passing Point Sophia, a vessel can safely
hug the eastern shore, till up with Entrance Point, a high red bluff, on the
N.W. side of the harbour, with a pinnacle rock close off it. After this is passed,
steer to pass between Pitt Island, a low island covered with trees, and the
eastern shore, and anchor in about 8 fathoms off the Indian village. The
holding ground is excellent, being sticky mud.

About half a mile southward of Pitt Island is Green Island, lying off the
North side of a larger island named Long Island. Between this ond False Point,
3 cables to the N.E., is the entrance of n narrow channel, nt the head of which
is a narrow portage to the upper part of Siwash or Tenakce Channel, commu-
nicating with Chatham Strait, but which is navigable for canoes only.

From the West side of Port Frederick the shore takes a W.N.W. direction,
7 or 8 miles, Avith some islets near it, to Point Adolphus, the North extreme of
the Sitka or King George Archipelago, in lat. 58° 18'.

OLACIEB BAY. — This large sheet of water, which was visited by Mr.
Hanus, US.S. Jamestown, lies N.W. of Point Adolphus, and extends in the
same direction for many miles, terminating at its head in some immense glaciers,
rising perpendicularly from the water's edge, and bounded to the North by a
continuation of the united lofty frozen mountains that extend eastward from
Mount Fairweather. At its southern end is a large group of islets, named
Sand or Deardslee Islands, extending in a north-westerly direction up the
centre of the bay for about 15 miles, many of them being high, and covered
with timber. It is reported that there are deep channels and safe anchorages
among them.

To enter this bay from Cross Sound , when about 2 miles from Lemcsuricr
Island steer about W.N.W. until you enter the bay, and then steer about
W. by N., or for Willoughby Island, a high island, about 5 or 6 miles long,
lying near the southern shore of the bay, at about 12 or 13 miles from its
entrance. In entering through the channel North of Lemesuricr Island, when
near the point where the waters of Cross Sound unite with those of Glacier
Bay, it will be necessary to give the northern shore a wide berth, for at this
point, which is low, a sand-spit makes out about 1^ mile from the land. In
running up to the inlet near Willoughby Island, no bottom was found at 16
fathoms, at a distance of from three-quarters to 1^ mile from the South shore.

Before entering Glacier Bay strong tidal currents or eddies will be encoun-
tered, especially to the northward and eastward of Lemesuricr Island, and this
part of Cross Sound is exceedingly dangerous for sailing vessels, since there is
much thick weather and ice in this vicinity. The tide here runs at least 3
knots an hour.

From Point Adolphus the South side of Cross Sound takes an irregular S.W.
direction, 17 miles, to ^'oint Lavinia, containing many open bays. In the

CROSS SOUND— LEMESUIIIER ISLAND.

623

■cconcl bight westward of Point Adolphus there is anchorage in? to 15 fathoms,
8oft mud, said to be secure from all but north-westerly winds. Some sunken
rocks lie near the shore hereabout.

From hence the land makes awaj *o tlie southward, forming a large bigh^
named Mud Bay, the southern shore of which has the appearance of an immense
sand spit. In entering from the N.E. the western shore will appear like a
group of islands, llicre is an immense mud-flat, with soundings varying from
4 to 7 fathoms, about three-quarters of a mile to the eastward of the West
shore of the bay, and 6 fathoms, mud bottom, was found about three-quarters
of a mile from Goose Island, which lies just southward of a point appearing
to be the outer island. The holding ground is excellent.

Lemesarier Island, — About 7 miles W. by S. of Point Adolphus is the
N.E. end of this island, which thence extends 6J miles S.W. by S. ^ S.,
moderately high, and covered with timber. Reefs lie off nearly all the points
on its S.E. side ; off Iceberg Point a dangerous reef uncovers for about one-
quarter of a mile from the shore at low water, and in rough weather is said to
break at least another quarter of a mile farther nut.

About midway on the southern shore of the island is a deep bight, known as
Willoughhy Cove, where a small vessel can find an anchorage in 8 to 1 4 fathoms,
muddy bottom, excellent holding-ground. The cove is open from S.E. to
N.N.E., and a very strong current sets by just outside, which creates strong
eddies, bringing icebergs in dangerous proximity to a vessel anchored too fur
out.

Dundas Bay. — On the North side of Lemesurier Island is a channel 3 to 4
miles wide between it and the continental shore. The N.W. point of this
channel is Point Dundas, in lat. SB'' 20', long. 136" 9', and westward of this
point is a branch extending to the North and westward. At about 6 miles up
it the channel is nearly stopped by shoals, rocky islets, and rocks, 4 miles
beyond which it is finally closed, being in most places greatly encumbered
with ice. The entrance, which is about 1 or 1} mile wide between Points
Dundas and Wimbledon, has, in mid-channel, only 18 fathoms water. About
the entrance the soundings are regular, of a moderate depth, and afford good
and secure anchorage ; but in the summer season (or in July) vessels would be
much inconvenienced by the immense quantities of floating ice.

On the opposite shore of the sound is Point Lavinia, previously mentioned,
bearing S.E. i E., 6 miles from it. Retween these points is a group of one low
and two high rocky islands, with some rocks and islets about them, together
occupying the greater part of the channel.

Port Althorp is to the westward of Point Lavinia, and extends 11 miles
S.E. by E. of it. Its South point of entrance is Point Lucan, off which, in a
direction about N.W. by W., lies a narrow, high island, about 2 miles in length,
named Three Hill Island, the central hill being about 1,300 ft. high. Retween
the S.E. point of this island and Point Lucan there are two small islets and

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THE SITKA ARCHIPELAGO.

some rocks, which render that passage not to commodious for sailing in and
out of the port as that to the North of the island, between it and the western
part of a cluster of three small islands, which extend about 2 miles from the
eastern side of the port. This channel is clear, free from danger except close
to the islands, and is about 1^ mile in width, with Granite Cove, a tolerably
snug cove in which Vancouver anchored, just within its N.W. point of entrance,
on the South side of George Island,

Three Hill Island affords great protection to the northern part of this port,
which, opposite to that island, is about 2^ miles wide ; but nearly in the middle
of the harbour, and opposite the South point of the island, arc some detached
rocks ; and at Point Lucan, which is situated 4 miles S.E. of Granite Cove, the
width of the harbour is 2 miles, from whrnce it extends E.S.E., about 6 miles,
and terminates in a basin affording good and secure anchorage, the best passage
into which is on the eastern shore.

CAFE SPENCEB, the outer North point of the entrance of Cross Sound,
on the Pacific Ocean, is a very conspicuous, high, blutf promontory, off which
rocks are stated to extend for about 1^ mile. It is in lat. 58" 13', long. 136° 27',
and bears from Point "Wimbledon S. by W. | W., distant 9 miles. To the
West of Point Wimbledon the main land terminates in steep, rugged, rocky
cliffs, off which, at a little distance, are some rocky islands. The bay, extend-
ing to the W.N.W. between these points, was occupied by an icy barrier ond
a great quantity of floating ice (in July, 1794), rendering the navigation across
it very difficult ond tedions. The head of the bay, which decreases to 3 miles
in width, is formed by a range of lofty mountains, connected with which is ar
immense body of compact per{)endicular ice, extending from shore to shore.
In the upper part of the eastern side the shores are composed of a border of low
land, which, on high tides, is overflown, and becomes broken into islands.

CROSS SOUND, or Icy Strait, was discovered by Capt. Cook, in his last
voyage, on Sunday, May 3rd, 1778, and was named by him from the day marked
in the calendar. Its existence was denied by some after its original discovery,
but the survey of it proves that Cook's description is much more accurate than,
from the transitory distant view he had of it, might have been reasonably ex-
pected. Its eastern limits may be placed at Points Lavinia and Wimbledon,
which have been previously described. From seaward it appears to branch
into many openings. Its southern shore, from Point Lucan to Point Bingham,
which is opposite to Cape Spencer, trends S.S.W., 10 miles, and about mid-
way between these points Lisiansly Strait takes a S.E. by E. direction for
about 7 miles, and then turns to the S.W., where it is reported to communicate
with the ocean, thus insulating Jacobi Island.

Point Bingham, which lies S.E. by S. i S., 11 miles, from Cape Spencer,
affords a bold entrance into the sound, witb.out rock, shoal, or any permanent
obstacle. The group of rocky islands noticed as existing to the S.E. of Point
Wimbledon, form a kind of termination to Cross Sound, and almost separate

CROSS SOUND— CAPE CROSS.

025

the ocean from Chatham Strait, to the eastward of it ; but on cither sido of
these islands thern arc two narrow channels, both of which arc free from rockii,
shoals, or any other impediment, excepting the large masses of floating ice,
which render them very dangerous in the summer season, and in the winter
they are most probobly entirely closed or impassable.

' Every part of Cross Sound appears to be free from any rock, shoal, or per-
manent obstacle ; and if it does possess any navigable objection, it is the un-
fathomable depth which everywhere exists, excepting very near the shores,
olong which, in many places, are dctnohed rocks ; these, however, lie out of
the way of its navigation, and are sufficiently conspicuous to be avoided.

The unfortunate La Perouse touched on this part of the coast, previous to his
departure for the West, in 1786. He makes the following remarks upon it : ~
At Cross Sound the high mountains covered with snow terminate, the peaks of
which are 8,000 or 9,000 ft. high. The country bordering on the sea, S.E. of
Cross Sound, although elevated 5,000 or 6,000 ft., is covered with trees to the
summit, and the chain of primitive mountains seems to penetrate farther into
the continent. Mount Crillon, about as elevated as Mount Fairweather, is to
the North of Cross Sound, in the same way that Mount Fairweather is to the
North of the Baie des Franjais ; they will servo to point out the ports they
are near to. The one may be readily mistaken for the other, in coming from
the South, if the latitude should not bo correct viuiin 15'. Otherwise, from
nil points. Mount Fnirweother appears accompanied by two mountains, less
elevated ; and Mount Crillon, more isolated, has its peak inclined towaids the
South.

CAFE CROSS, which was considered by Cook as forming the S.E. point of
entrance to the sound, is not precisely so, but lies about 5 miles S.E. by S. J S.
from Point Bingham, which forms the true S.E. point. The interior part is
a low rocky land, free from any danger, but off the cape rocks extend for a
distance of about a mile.

From Cape Cross the coast takes a direction of S.E. by E., about 22J^ miles,
to another promontory, to which Vancouver gave the name of Cape Edward,
and off which lies a cluster of small islets and rocks. The coast between these
capes is much broken, and has several openings in it which appear likely to
afford shelter, but the vast number of rocks and small islets, which extend to
the distance of 3 or 4 miles from the shore, will render the entering of such
harbours unpleasant and dangerous, until a more competent knowledge of their
several situations may be better acquired. That which appeared to Vancouver
to be the easiest of access lies about 6 miles to the N.W. of Cape Edward, and
as it is in lat. 67° 44', he was led to conclude that this opening was Portlock
Harbour.

Portlock Harbour. — About 2 miles from the shore, to the N.W. of the
opening, we had 20 and 25 fathoms water, muddy bottom, and just within the
North Pacific, 4 i.

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TIIK SITKA ARCIIIPKLAGO.

entrance were sonic high barren rocks. On getting into the entrance of the
passage, which is ubuiit a mile across, we deepened the water to 30 ftithonis,
sandy bottom, the barren rocks just mentioned (and Ilogan Ishind) forming
the South side ; the northern side is Hill Ishind, low land. About half a mile
within the barren rocks we had 30 fathoms over a rocky bottom, which dei)th
and bottom we carried at least a mile farther, steering N.l'I. by E., which is
nearly the course into the harbour. Presently afterwards we shoaled the water
to 10 fathoms, being then in the narrowest part of the channel, not more than
half a mile across, having to the North some bold rocks, and to the South n
bluir point of land ; to the Kast of M'hich, a small distance from shore, are some
rocks which just show themselves above water. Immediately on passing tliese
rocks we deepened the water very quickly to 30 and 10 fathoms, and a most
spacious and excellent harbour opened itself to our view, bending to the N.W.
and S.E., and running deep in to the northward, with a number of small
islands scattered about. We ran up towards the N.W. part of the harbour, and
after passing a small island near the North shore, covered with trees, wo an-
chored in 31 fathoms, mud, entirely landlocked, the roulrs lying in the inner
part of tho passage, just shut in with the small island alrea^'y mentioned, and
bt-aring South, 3 or 4 miles distant. — Portlock, pp. 257-8.

(louldiny Harbour is a branch of Portlock Harbour, extending from its N.W.
part. It runs in a zig-zag direction, between North and N.K,, about 5 miles,
to the head of it, from the island in the entrance. It appears navigable for at
least 4 miles up for vessels of any size, and there are a number of small islands,
covered with trees, scattered about in various parts. Wooding and watering
are performed with facility.

KLOKACHEVA SOUND, or Olga Gulf.— From Cape Edward the coast
takes a direction about E. by S. i S. to this very conspicuous opening, named
by Capt. Cook the Hay of Islands. lie rightly considered that it was the en-
tronce to a channel which separated the land, on which Mount I'Idgcunibe is
jituated, from the adjacent shores. It is also the entrance to Peril Strait and
Pogibshi Channel, separating the two principal islands of the Sitka Archipelago.
The names given by Cook and others arc now forgotten, and the liussian charts
of 1848 and 1853 give Kussian names to all the points. Master G. C. Hanus,
U.S.S. Jamestown, 1880, gives some of the following information.

The entrance of the sound is about 4 miles wide between Klokachcva Island
on the North, and Sloucht Point, the N.W. point of Kruzo" Island, on tho
South. From hence it extends, with very deep water, 5 miles to N.E. by E.,
with some islets and rocks oil" both shores, and then it branches olT into two
channels, to the N.N.E. and S.E. by E. About a mile within the entrance of
the southern channel is the North end of Partovshikov Island, which thence
extends miles, leaving only a narrow channel on each side of it, leading to
the North end of Sitka Sound, Soukoi Inlet, to the West, being blocked by
Bhoal water at its South end.

KLOKACIIKVA SOUND— rOaiBSIII CHANNEL.

t-i^r

Nevski Strait. — Kan Islets lie in mid-channol off tlio northern side of
Pnrtovshikov IhIiuhI, iind Commander Coghlan, U.S.N., 1884, rcportN Uiat a
rcof lies 1 cable oil" the opposite coast, bearing N. J W. from the inlefs.
IJoyond this the inlet extends 22 miles East to the head of Baptist flisi,, in
which the water shoals gradually from 37 fathoms within its entrance to t>
fathoms at its head.

Ik'twccn Kan Islets and Baptist Bay the inlet is about half a mile wide. At
midway between, Nevski Strait branches off to S.K. J M. for 4 miles, and is
considerably narrower, the shores for the most part being lined *'iih stinken
rocks. Near its southern end is Whilvstonv Narrows, where f*.e channel,
liaving a depth of T) to 8 fathoms, becomes very narrow, bciii;^ coiifmed close
to the eastern shore by a bed of sunken rocks and kelp extending from the West
coast, having a rocky islet, named the Whitestone, on its 'A.V.. edge. Here the
flood tide comes from the northward.

Vessels entering Klokaeheva Sound should keep near the middle of the
entrance, until close up to the high bluffs of liaranofT Island, when, if wishing
to pass through Nevski Strait, there is a deep but narrow channel between
Kan Islets and the eastern shore. After this, keep about mid-channel, and
when entering Whitestonc Narrows avoid a sand-spit extending from the eastern
shore, and leave the edge of the kelp on the starboard hand.

Fogibshi Channel ( Peril Strait) is a winding channel, with numerous islets
and rocks in it, separating Chichagofl' and IJaranoff Islands. Its entrance from
the N.K. part of Klokaeheva Sound is half a mile wide, opening within to n
large bay on its Mast side, named liuhia or Fish Hay. On the northern side of
this bay, about 'i\ miles from the entrance of the channel, is Schulze Cove, fice
from .nil visible dangers. The llnssian steamers formerly used this cove as a
shelter from S.l-',. gales, anchoring just t<j ho N.W. of the sand-spit extending
off the N.W. side of Piper Islaml, which lii^s on the S.K. side of the entrance.

Suri/e Narrows is the part where the channel again narrows from flubia
Hay. In its entrance is Pororoya Island, having some rocks off it, and hence
Commander Coghlan recommends that in passing these narrows the navigator
should pass within 100 yards of the Chichagoff shore. Slack water lasts only
about 20 minutes, and at the height of the current it is estimated to run 10
knots an hour. Wyanda liock, one-third of a mile N. by K. from the islet off
the North side of Pororoga Island, never uncovers, and between this and the
sunken ledge extendinj.; S.S.I'i. of the rock southward of Lcsnoi Island, thcro
is a clear channel several hundred yards wide.

After passing Deep IJay the best channel will be found westward of Small
Islands, which are noted on the U.S. chart close off the prominent poiiit to the
northward of Deep Hay. Above this the channel trends 3 miles to the N.W.,
with deep water, and is about half a mile wide. It then opens into a large
basin, about i\ miles in diameter, with some islands and rocks near its centre.
The track passes southward of these islands to Nismenna or Low Point, on the

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THE SITE /V ARCHIPELAGO.

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West side of which is Favourite Anchorage, close to the shore, nhout half a
rnilc to the southward of Otstoia or Distant Island, in from 7 to 12 fathoms.
The holding-ground is excellent, tlic bottom being blue mud or clay. This an-
chorage affords excollcut shelter from S.E. around to N.N.W., the hills being
high.

In getting under way frowi tlws anchorage for Chatham Strait, a good
channel, Mith 7 fathoms water, will be found between Otstoin Island and
Nismenna Point, keeping dose to the island to avoid the sand spit extending
from the point. Gnian Jiork, a dangerous lock, which breaks in rough
weather, lies about N. bj' ¥,. Ifcom the eivatera end of Otstoia inland, distant
from one-half to three-quarters »f a mil^-. Sevti'al vessels have struck upon it.

From hence Pogibshi Channel trends \i> miles East to Chatham Strait, having
a group of islands on the South side of its entrance. About 2 cables S. by E.
of the eastern point of the anchorage, known on the charts as Lindenbery B<iy ,
is Mt ('lellan lioch, covered at high water, reported by Lieut. McCiellan, U.S.N.,
in May, 1880.

The point of Tehitchagofl' Island, at the junction of Peril and Chatham
Straits, is named Point Graven, and off it are two rocky i.slels, with deej) >»
a few hundred yards outside of them. At 2 miles N.W. by N. of Point Graven
is I'oitit Hayes, close off which is an islet, and a very dangerous reef extends
1 or IJ mile to E. by S., the outer part of the reef consisting of numerous
detached rocks, many showing at low water. About 1 mile northward of thi.''
2)oint another reef makes out from the shor'^, and runs towards Morris Reef.
Eussian pilots state that this point should not be approached closer than 1 ^ mile.

From Siouchi Point, the South entrance point of Klokacheva Sound, the
coast of Kruzov Inland extends 17 miles S.E. by S. i S. to Cape Edgcumbc,
and nearly midway between them is Shelikora Bay, named Port Mary by
Vaficouvcr, presenting the appearance of a good harbour.

CAPE EDGCUMBE, Uie S.W. pointofKru/off Island, the Cabo del Engano
of the Spanish charts of Maurellc, is low land, covered with trees, projecting
considerably into the sea, in iat. 57^ 0' 15", long. 13.5° 461'.

Mount EdgOTUlbd, which stands on the South end of the island, inland of
the cape of the same uamc, is the Mount San Jacinto of the Spanish charts. It
was estimated by Lisiansky, who ascended it, to be about 8,000 ft. in height ;
on the last Hussion chart it is ««id to be only 2,800 ft., a remarkable difference.
The side toward chc sen is steep, and was covered with snow (in July, 1805);
that towards the .my (to the southward) is smooth, and cf gradual ascent, and
overgi'own with woods to within 1 J mile of the top. Thio upper space exhibits
a few patches of verdure, but i» in gcnerfjl covered with stones of different
colours. On the sumii) ' ^ bisin, or crater, about 2 miles in oircunrfe/ence,
and 40 fathoms deep, tli' o covered with snow.

SITKA SOUVD. The nam'' io that o# the natives, who call themselves
Sitko.-hani. It is probably the nvetut as that called by the Spaniards, Baya

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SITKA SOUND.

629

de Gtiadah/pa. It is also called Tchinkitdnay Bay by Marchancl and other
authors. The nanio of Norfolk Sound was applied to it by Dixon, whose in-
dustry first made known its real character ; he anchored, probably, in the first
cove round Cape Edgcumbe, and did not penetrate to the eastward, to where
the Russian establishment was afterwards founded. The charts and descrip •
tious of this period are so imperfect that they would probably rather tend to
mislead than instruct.

The coast of Sitka Kay is fronted by many steep rocks, and the neighbouring
waters thickly sprinkled with rocks, and little rocky islands overgrown with
wood, wliich arc a protection against tlie storms, and present a strong wall of
defence against the waves.

A bold, enterprising man, of the name of Baranoff, long superintended the
Russian Company's establishment. Although the conquest of the Sitkaeus
(Sitka-hans), a branch of the Kaloschiansor Kalushes, was not easily achieved,
he finally accomplished it. A warlike, courageous, and cruel race, provided
with fire-arms by the ships of the North American United States in exchange
for otter-skins, they maintained an obstinate struggle against the invaders;
but Bari.;>.;t! ..!• length obtained a decisive superiority over them. lie built
some dwehiiig-houses, made an intrenchment, and having, in his own opinion,
appeased the Kalushes by profuse presents, confided the new conquest to a
small number of Russians and Aleutians. For a short time matters went on
prosperously, wiien suddenly the garrison left by Baranoff, believing itself iu
perfect safety, was attacked by great numbers of Kalushes, who entered the
intrenchments without opposition, and murdered all they met with there with
circumstances of atrocious cruelty. A few Aleutians only escaped to Kodiak,
where tbey brought the news of the destruction of Sitka. This took place in
180 1, at the period that Admiral Krusenstern made his voyage round the world,
and his second siiip, the Neva, was bound for the colony. UaranofF took
advantage of this, and with three armed vessels he accompanied the N':va to
Sitka. The Kalushes retired at his ajiproach to their fortifications, and attempted
to maintain a sie^c, but the guns from the ships soon caused a speedy surrender.
Thej were allowed to retire unmolested, but they stole away secretly on a dark
night, after murdering all of their party who might have been an encumbrance
to them. Baranoff thus became nominally possessed of the island, but in
reality of u hill forming a natural fortification, and formerly inhabited by a
Kalush chief called Katelun.

Since the occupation of Sitka by the United States authorities, the ap-
proaches to the harbour have been examined, chiefly by Lieut. F. M. Symonds,
U.S.S. JamenloH-n, in 187'.»-80, from wh^fc survey the following description is
principally derived. Some information, also, has been obtained from a Report
by Mr. O. Davidson, made in 1807.

Sitka Sound is 12 miles wide at the entrance between Cape Edgcumbe and
Sitka Foint, and the N.W. point of Biorka Island the Point Wodclioust of

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THE SITKA ARCHIPELAGO.

V.ancouver) to tlic E. by S. From Cape Edgcumbe tbc North shore runs
N.E. ^ E., 7 Jiiilcs, to Etmoloi or Shoah Point, nearly a mile E.N.E. of which
lie Low Island and rocks. Nearly midway between these points, and IJ mile
oflf shore, lies St. Lazara or Cape Island, moderately high, and wooded.

Biorka Island, on the South side of the entrance, is about 2 miles in length,
densely covered with trees and tall grass, and is the outermost of a labyrinth
of islands which extend many miles to the eastward. Several islets and rocks
lie off its shores, and the passage eastward of it is studded with sxmken rocks,
and is therefore dangerous. At more than half u mile S.E. by S. i S. from
the South extreme of the island, or one-third of a mile from Neprop, an islet
otf it, is the dangerous sunken Vasileva Hock. A still more important danger,
which will require all caution in entering the sound and making for the settle-
ment, is a sunken rock, with only 10 ft. at low water, only breaking occasion-
ally, and lying 2 miles S.W. by W. ^ W. from the N.W. point of Biorka.
The channel between this danger and the island is clear, and the western shore
of the island is bluff.

Symonds Bay, on the North side of Biorka Island, near its East end, has
good anchorage, and was named after the U.S. surveyor. On the AVcst side
of the entrance is Entrance Island, a barren rock, 50 yards in diameter, and
46 ft, high, an excellent mark. Ilanus Island, the eastern entrance point, is
covered with trees on its western side, and w.-xs named after another U.S.
surveyor.

The approaches to the bay arc free from dangers, with the exception of the
rocky patch to the westward of Biorka Island, and it is only necessary to
avoid the kelp patches. The first kelp patch on entering is on the western
side of the bay, and marks a rock with but 2 ft. water over it at low tide, the
only danger in the bay. In entering, ii.void the kelp patch northward of Ilanus
Island, and give the island a berth of 200 yards to the westward, then head
for the white snnd-beach at the head of the bay, the centre of which will bear
about S.S.E. Anchor in 7 fathoms, avoiding the kelp; the holding ground is
good, and the anchorage is sheltered against all winds except those between
W.N-W. and N. by E. Fresh water and wood may be had in abundance. It
is high water here, on fidl and change, at O** 24"" ; springs range 9 to 10 ft.

Within Biorka Island the South shore of the sound is formed by innumerable
rocks and low wooded islets, and the coast is indented bv large bays. The
outermost rocks appear to be the Vastlavha, 5J miles North of the N.W. end
of Biorka Island, and lying some distance off the low islands inside; the sea
breaks upon some o^^ them.

Betwc .'n Otmelo' Point and Bouronov Point, to E. by N. J N., Sitka Sound
becomes contracted to a width of 7J miles, havivg several islets and groups of
rocks on this line, the channel invariably used by the Russians being that be-
tween Vitskari Island and Kulich Rock, about 2 miles apart E. by N. i N.
and W. by S. i S. Vitskari Island, 7 miles to the N.N.W. of the N.W. point

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SITKA SOUND.

631

of Biorka, is very low and small, and on it is a conical stone beacon, the summit
of which is 41 ft. above high water. The reef, marked on the British Admiralty
chart an extending nearly a mile to N.E. by E. J E., is stated not to exist, but
three clumps of rocks, about a quarter of a mile apart, have been observed to
the N.W. of the island. Kulich Hock is stated to be about 20 ft. high, with
deep water and dangerous sunken rocks between it and the islets off Bouronoff
Point, lleefs awash lie about one-third of a mile N.N.VV. and southward of it.

"Within this the settlement is fronted by an intricate range of scattered islets
an'l rocks, between which there are three principal channels to the harbour,
which should only be entered ynder the guidance of a ' lot, or with good local
knowledge. Any detailed description is unnecessary, as .ae chart derived from
the late U.S. survey will be the best g^'ide. Directions aic given hereafter for
the approaches.

Commander R. W. Meade, U.S.S. Sufftnaw, 18G8, states that in fine weather
pilots may readily be procured, the charge for men-of-war being 4 dollars per
foot, the pilot taking the ship outside of Biorka Island or C!ape Edgeumbe.

The outer most conspicuous island is named Mukhnati, about 30 ft. high,
and covered with a thick growth of spruce. On its summit is a pyramid beacon,
formed of heavy logs, the summit being 72 ft. above high water, and bearing
about S.W. J S., nearly 5 miles, from Vitskari beacon. A dangerous rock,
with 9 ft. water over it, lies about 2^ cables S.S.AV. of its East point.

The Eastern Channel to the harbour is the widest and safest, the Middle and
Western Channels being narrow and somewhat tortuous. On the South side
of the entrance, which is two-thirds of a mile wide, are a group of islets and
rocks, near the middle of which, on Echhohn Islet, a beacon has been erected,
its summit 72 ft. above high water, and similar to that on ^lakhnati. At a
little over a mile S.W. ^ S. from this beacon is Zenobia Rock, with 15 ft. water
over it.

Middle Channel has several dangers in it, and is therefore not recommended.
In case it should be necessary to enter by this channel, its dangers will bo
best avoided by passing between Passage and Kayak Islets, which are about '1
cables apart.

Western Channel is wider than Middle Channel, but it is difficult to reach
the settlement by this passage, as it becomes very contracted at its eastern
end. The entrance is westward of Makhnati Island, and on the same side,
three-quarters of a mile within, is Whiiiny Ilsrbour, between Japonski Island
and the islands to the S.W. of it. Here the holding ground is good, with ex-
cellent shelter from N.E. gales.

Directions. — In entering Sitka Sound in a sailing vessel, with the wind
from the nortli-westward, it is advisable to give the Mount Edgeumbe shon a
wide berth, as under the influence of that high land the wind is api tc fail and
full calm when the vessel is in the vicinity of \ithka i. Biorka Island should
be given a berth of at least 2^ miles, and to clear tUe sunkra rocks westward

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THE SITKA ARCHIPELAGO.

of it, do not bring Vitskari beacon to bear northward of N. i E. In entering
the harbour, leave the beacon on Vitskari half a mile to port. To an approach-
ing vessel the islands about Sitka appear as one confused mass, but they may
be approached boldly until the beacons are made out, after which the position
may be plotted accurately, and the desired channel chosen without difficulty.

After passing Vitskari Island, steer N.E. i N., until the beacon on Eckholra
Island bears E.N.E., after which Eastern Channel may be entered with safety,
keeping well on the South side of the channel in order to clear Simpson Shoal
and Tzaritza Hock. Vessels drawing more than 21 ft. must avoid a rocky
patch lying E. by N. from Entrance Island (or the 'J'wins), by passing within
300 yards of the eastern extremity of that island.

With regard to the anchorage at Sitka, Commander Beardslee, U.S.S. Jamts-
town, remarks, that ordinary gales blowing from S.E. and S.W. outside are
deflected to N.E. and South, respectively, before reaching the inner anchorage.
Very heavy S.E. gales, however, blow home with a force greater than is felt
from any other direction. Occasionally a heavy N.E. gale sends through the
valleys heavy squalls from E.N.E. For these reasons it is necessary to moor
very securely, if remaining here for any considerable time. The Jamestown
was moored in the western harbour, abreast the Indian village westward of the
town, with the eastern extremity of Harbour Island bearing S.E. ^ S., and the
East point of Japonski Island S.W. by S. J S., and this anchorage is recom-
mended to vessels visiting the harbour with the intention of remaining for
Bome time.

2ules. — It is high water at Sitka, on full and change, at 0*" SS"" ; springs
rise 9 to 12 ft.

Besides the approach from the S.W., a good passage exists between the
North part of Sitka Sound and Klokachev.i Sound, by passing through White-
stone Narrows, described on p. 627.

SITKA or New Archangel, formerly the Russian establishment, stands on
the N.W. side of a bay on the eastern side of the sound, about 12 miles within
the entrance, the observation spot being in lat. 57'^ 2' 52', long. 135° 10' 45" W.
In 1 883 it had a population of about 300 whites, and 200 Russians or Creoles,
their principal occupation being catching and curing salmon. There is a
custom-house here, also a hospital, saw-mills, school, stores, &c., besides the
official establishment. There is monthly communication with Portland (Oregon)
by steamer, and there is regular steam communication with Sun I'raucisco,
distant about 1,.500 miles.

A light is shown from the Goveraor's house when a vessel is expected, and
on firing a gun or rocket it will be answered.

As before stated (p. 502), the climate is not so severe as the latitude would
seem to waiTant. The mean temperature in summer is about 55° F., and in
winter about 32° only.

Mr. Frederick Whymper visited Sitka in 1865, and his interesting volainc,

tlP^i-

'■'^

SITKA.

633

chapter vii, will give a good account of its condition at that time. The follow-
ing is taken from an article in the Mercantile Marine Magazine, 1869, which
gives a description of the place as it is under the new rogimc.

The harbour of Sitka is a very picturesque one, with plenty of water for the
largest ships to pass in and out, but a dangerous one, owing to the large number
of little islets and rocks, between which pass narrow channels, any of them with
sufficient water to float a ship, but hardly sea-room enough to be safe ; how-
ever, the old llussian pilot seems to have no difficulty in getting through them
when required. The entrance to the harbour is superb. Mount Edgcumbo
towers up some 8,000 ft. above the level of the sea ; its immense crater, filled
with snow, marks the north-western boundary of the harbom*, and can be ^ecn
at a great distance. Darauoff Island is made up of mountains piled on moun-
tains, looking as if pushed up out of the sea by some grand eonvr.lsion of
nature at no very distant day, as evidenced by their peaked summits and jagged
outlines.

The town of Sitka, formerly New Archangel, is situated on a point of land
jutting out into the bay, from the base of the mountains, probobly containing
about 1,000 acres, and from the character of the soil appears to have been made
by the washings of the ciean. On the point is a large lake of fresh water, in
front of which, along the edge of the bay, are about 150 log houses, scattered
about promiscuously. There is but one street, and that extends throughout
the whole length of the town, and is continued for about a mile to Indian River,
a little mountain stream emptying into the bay at this point. This is the only
road on the island ; beyond this, and, in fact, on all sides of the island, fjr
some distance before you reach its termination, the thicket is impenetrable.
This little river furnishes splendid water, cold as ice, aud seems to get its
supply from the melting snows on the summit of the mountains. To this littlo
river the road leads, and was made by the Russians for the purpose of getting
water, as the lake water is hardly fit to drink. There is not a well or cistern
on the island, a large proportion of the water used being carried in small casks
slung on a pole, on the shou'iders of two men or women.

The governor's house is built on a rock, and overlooks the town and bay ; it
is a very large structure, and formerly furnished not only a residence for the
Russian governor, but for many of the officers of the Company. The house is
surrounded by a wide platform, the side towards the bay being protected by a
redoubt and stockade, in which cannon were mounted, as well as on the plat-
form. The garrison flagstaff is on this platform. All approaches to it were
well guarded. On the other three sides were the Company's warehouses, form-
ing a hollow square, with a battery of some twelve or fourteen guns bearing
on the Indian village, and one of the approaches to the town.

The stockade, separating the Indian villngc from the town, runs in a north-
easterly direction, and is about I mile in length, terminating at the lake. The
J\Wth I'aci/ic. 4 m

mm :

634

THE SITKA ARCHIPELAGO.

i .1
I

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Indian village fronts the bay, and contains about one hundred large huts, built
of hewn logs, and very substantial — built for defoncc as well as to live in.

The Grcco-ltussian church has rather an im}>osing cathedral here, which is
a great relief to the appearance of the town. It has a dome and steeple, with
a chime of bells, and stands nearly in the centre of the town, fronting the main
street — in fact is in its centre — the street fronting on each side. It is built in
the form of a cross, and, although it has a rather rough exterior, is very
gorgeous inside, decorated with the paraphernalia appertaining to the church
service, which is very imposing and magnificent. The church property here
consists of the bishop's house, widows' home, cathedral, and chapel.

About li mile eastward of the settlement is Jumcstown Bay, where fresh
water may be obtained ; a smnil jetty has been built here to facilitate the supply.

Biorha Island, or Point Wodchouse, as previously mentioned, is the S.W.
point of Sitka Sound. An extensive group of islets and rocks extend K.S.E.
from it for 3 or 4 miles from the shore, which takes a course about S.E. by E.
This part of the coast is much broken into small openings, with islets and de-
tached rocks lying off it. W'c can offer no account of it.

At 20 miles from Biorka Island the Russian charts show an extensive inlet,
trending to the N.N.E., named Whale Bay. It is the Port Banks of Captain
Dixon, and is in lat. 56^ 38'. The foUowuig are Di.\on's remarks on it : —
" The prospect at Port Banks, though rather confined, yet has something more
pleasing and romantic than any wc had seen on the coast. The land to the
northward and southward rises sufficiently to an elevation to convey every idea
of winter ; and though its sides are perpetually covered with snow, yet the
numerous pines, which ever and anon pop out their lusty heads, divest it of
that dreary and horrific cast with the barren mountains to the N.W. of Cook
Eiver (Inlet). To die eastward the land is considerably lower, and the pines
appear to grow in the most regular and exact order ; these, together with the
brushwood and shrubs on the surrounding beaches, form a most beautiful con-
trast to the higher laud, and render the appearance of the whole truly pleasing
and delightful."

Cape Ommaney, the southern extremity of the Sitka Archipelago, lies about
53 miles from Point Wodehouse, and has been previously described on pp. 612
and G19.

Thus the entire circuit of this archipelago has been imperfectly noticed.

We now return to the northward, taking up the description at the point
where Cross Sound terminates. This description, however, must be considered
as imperfect, as we are chiefly dependent for our information on the remarks
of the old navigators. Several of the more important points liave been ex-
amined, of late years, by the American surveyors, but no systematic survey Ikis

i»-«*

CAri'; FAiiiWKATn eu-mount FAiuwKAi iii:u.

635

yet been carried out. Attention will be drawn to their Ilcports in the parts
where these localities are described.*

Cape Spenoer, the point above named, has been noticed on p. 624.

From Cape Spencer the coast takes a general direction of about W. i N. It
is steep and entire, well wooded, and, with the exception of one opening,
Lituja Hay or Altona Gulf, between it and Cape Fairweather, appears not
likely to afford shelter for shipping. The coast is completely bounded at a
little distance by steep, compact mountains, which are a continuation of the
same undivided range stretching from the eastward.

At 15 miles westward of Ca])c Spencer is Forest Cape, with a small open
bay on its eastern side, having the most southern sea-coast glacier on its N.K.
side. Icy Cape is about 10 miles farther on, and at 13 miles northward of it
is Mount Cfillon, about 15,000 ft. high. At 32 miles West of Cape Spencer
is the narrow and dangerous opening to Lituya Hay or Port Frangais, which
extends to N.E. by N. for 6 miles, and then branches into two arms about 3
miles long. The entrance lies 2 or 3 miles westward of the termination of the
rocky bold bluffs in coming from the southward. The best anchorage is just
inside the North point, but the entrance is said to be very dangerous, from the
strong currents rushing over hidden rocks. A small river, frequented by
salmon, enters the sea 1^ mile N.W. by N. of the bay.

CAPE FAIRWEATHER lies 22 miles to N.W. by W. of Lituya Bay, the
coast between being low and sandy. It is placed by Vancouver in lat. 58" 50^',
long. 137" 50', and cannot bo considered as a very conspicuous promontory ; it
is most distinguished when seen from the southward, as the land to the West
of it retires a few miles back to the North, and there forms a bend in the coast;
and it is the most conspicuous point eastward of Cape Phipps, at Behring Bay,
to the W. i N.

MOUNT FAIRWEATHER is one of the most remarkable mountains on the
N.W. coast of America ; it is about 15,500 ft. high; in lat. 58° 54^'. long.
137° 31', and 9 miles from the nearest shore, its peak being always covered
with snow. Capt. Cook says : — " This mountain is the highest of a chain, or
rather ridge of mountains, that rise at the N.W. entrance of Cross Sound, and
extend in a N.W. direction, parallel with the coast. These mountains were
wholly covered with snow (in May, 1778), from the highest summit down to
the sea-coast (which was 12 leagues distant), some few places excepted, when
we could perceive trees rising, as it were, out of the sea, and which, therefore,
wc supposed grew on low land, or on islands bordering on the shore of tho
continent."

The waters surrounding Alaska have always been celebrated for their whale

• Itoferonco has been miido, in tho followinpr description, to tho " Report of Mr. Georga
Davidson, relative to the IJesources and C'oaat foaturea of Alaska," in tho U.S. Coast
Survey Heport, 1807, pp. 187 321.

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630

THE COAST OF ALASKA.

fisheries. Some of the Russian nnvigators inform mc that their host whaling
ground, from the middle of June to the middle of July, vns in the region named
Fairweather Ground, lying between Pamplona Reef and the shores off Mount
Fairweallier. The richness of this locality is confirmed by all the old navi-
gators and fur traders. — Mr. G. Davidson, 1867.

From Capo Fairweather to Cape Phippn, the South point of the entrance of
Behring Bay, the distance is 71 miles, West ; the intermediate coast is a low
border extending from the base of the mountains, well wooded, ond in some
parts appears to be much inundated, the waters finding their way to the sea in
shallow rivulets, through two or three breaks in the beach. The most important
stream is the Jliver Ahekh, which, when its waters overflow, form an extensive
shallow bay or lagoon, named Dry Bay, at about 17 miles from Cape Fair-
weather.

BEHRING BAT, or Taknta Bay, the true situation nnd chara^-ter of which
was first elicited by Vancouver, runs inland, to the N. by K., between Capo
Phipps nnd Point Manby. Capt. Cook, supposing that a bay existed to the S.E.,
conceived it to be the bay that Chctrow, the master of Rehring's fleet, rccon-
noih-cd. This mistake was also followed by Capt. Dixon, who gave the name
of Admiralty Ray to that in question ; but as Rehring certainly was the dis-
coverer of a bay in this locality, and there being but one, the name of that
navigator has supplanted that applied by Dixon.

The general direction of the bay is N. i E. for 24 miles, diminishing from
18 miles in width, at 4 miles from the entrance, to Digges Sound at its head.
The S.E. shores of the bay are fringed by numerous wooded islands, forming
n great number of small bays and anchorages, with very deep water in most of
them, and the entrances have strong currents, rendering them difficult of access
for sailing vessels. The North shore is represented as low and sandy.

Cape Phipps, the south-easternmost point of Rehring Ray, is in lat. 59" 33',
long. 139° 47'. This cape and Ocean Cape, 3 miles southward of it, arerepre-
eented as low and sandy, the whole peninsula being an intricacy of crooked
channels. About 2 miles within it, the const taking an easterly direction, there
is a sinnll opening in the low land, accessible only for boats, near which was
found nn Indian village. Capt. Sir Edward Rclcher states that he was driven
much to the westward by the current near Cape Phipps. — (Vol. i, p. 82).

Point Turner, which is a low, narrow, wooded strip of land, forming the S.E.
point of the island that protects Port Mulgravc from the ocean, is E.N.E., 2J
miles, from the inner or North point of Cape Phipps. About 3 miles N.E. by E.
from Point Turner is n point on the main land, which is the East end of a round-
ing bny, about 4 miles across to Cape Phipps. It is necessary to give a good
berth to Cnpe Phipps, in order to avoid a small reef that stretches from it into
the sea. Cape Turner, on the contrary, is bold, nnd must be kept close on
board, for the purpose of avoiding the shoals that lie a little distance to the

BEHRINO BAY— POUT MULORAVE.

637

eastward of it ; between these shoals and the point good nnchornge is found in
8 to 14 fathoms, clear good holding ground.

The rise and fall of the tide here are about 9 ft. ; and it is high water about
30' after the moon passes the meridian.

PORT MULORAVE lies to the eastward of Point Turner, and is protected
from the ocenn, as before stated, by an island lying in a North and South
direction. It was possibly first discovered by Capt. Dixon, June, 1787, who
named it after that nobleman. It contains a number of small low islands,
which, in common with the rest of the coast, are entirely covered with pines,
intermixed with brushwood. To the North and N.W. are high mountains
covered with snow, about 30 miles distant.

It was visited by Sir Edward Belcher, in H.M.S. Sulphur, who stayed a
short time here. Fish, halibut, and salmon of two kinds, were abundant and
moderate, of which the crews purchased and cured great quantities. Game
very scarce. The remains of the Russian establishments were observed; a
blockhouse pitched on a cliff, on the East side ; and on the low point, where
the astronomical observations were taken, the remains of another ; also a staff,
with a vane and cross, over a grave. Sir Edward Bclciior says that a good
leading mark for the entrance to the harbour is Mount Fairweather over Cape
Turner.

An off-shore shoal, 7 fathoms, sand, was probably crossed by the Sulphur in
coming out of Port Mulgravc, when no land could be seen within 3 miles. —
(Belcher, vol. i, p. 89).

The island or islands before alluded to, which form the outer face of Port
Mulgrave, and of which Point Turner is the S. W. extremity, extend for 8 miles
in length. They are almost joined to the continental shore by a spit incom-
moded with many rocks and huge stones, but leaving a very narrow channel,
by which Vancouver's vessel, the Chatham, passed from one part of the inlet
to the other, from the northward. The depth in the shallowest part is about
15 feet.

Knight Island is 5 miles N. by W. of the northern entrance to the channel
just described. It admits of a navigable passage all round it, but some rocks
lie about half a mile from its West point ; and there is an islet situated be-
tween it and the main land, on its N.E. side.

Eleanor Cove, — From the North entrance to Port Mulgravc the continental
coast takes a northerly direction, 6 miles, to this cove, which is the eastern
extremity of Bchring B.iy. It is protected from the westward by Knight
Island, which is about 2 miles long in a N.E. and S.W. direction, and about a
mile broad, lying at the distance of a mile from the main land.

The phore here is low, and trends about N.W., 6 miles, to Point Latouche,
the S.E. limit of Digges Sound or Bay. The two points forming the entrance
to Digges Sound, thus named by Vancouver, are bluff, lying about 1 J mile
apart N.E. by E. and S.W. by W., the easternmost of them being Point La-

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WEBSTER, N.Y. 14S80

(716) S72-4S03

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638

THE COAST OF ALASKA.

touchc, as above mentioned. The shores nrc composed of a continuation of the
low border extending from the foot of the mountains to the sea-side, and uio
bounded by frozen ice or e( ;w, especially in the sound.

From Diggcs Sound the continental coast, forming the North side of Hchring
Bny, runs firrt to S.S.W., and is nearly straight and compact. At 8 miles
from the opening the land falls back, forming a small bay, with n low island
about 2 miles long to tiv^ N. by \N . of it. The coast here trends S.W. by S.,
8 miles, and then S.W. by "W., 6 miles, to Point Manby.

Point Manby, 18 miles W. by N. from Capo Phipps, is high, and forms the
N.W. point of Uehring H.iy ; it is in lot. .^9' 43', long. 140^ 13'. To the cast-
ward of it the country is well wooded, and proceeding northward it loses its
verdant and more fertile appearance ; the coa.st still continues to be a low com-
pact border of plain land. The depth is generally from 5 to 12 fathoms at 2
cables from the shore.

Point Bion, about 25 miles from Point Manby, though no longer existing,
was a tolerably well-marked promontory at the period of Vancouver's survey,
and to whom it owes its name. Ho describes it as being low, well wooded,
with a small detached islet at a little distance to the westward of it, which
might have been a mass of earth-covered ice aground. The coast is still com-
posed of a spacious margin of low land, rising, with a gradual and uniform
nseer^, to the foot of the still connected chain of lofty mountains, whose summits
are but the base from whence Mount St. Klias towers majestically conspicuous
in regions of pei^yCtual frost. Vancouver's charts, from the extensive changes
continually going on, present but little to recognise in this part at the present
period.

ICY BAT, to the W. by N. of whot was Point Riou, is terminated by steep
cliflTs, from whence the ice descends to the sea. At the eastern side of the bay
the coast is formed of low, or rather moderately elevated, land. Icy Cape, its
West point, is n high, abrupt, cliffy point, bounded by a solid body of ice or
frozen snow, 7 miles W. by N. from Point Eiou. Tebenkoif gives soundings
of 12 to 15 fathoms inside the entrance, and 5 fathoms at the head, but it is
entirely open to southerly winds.

This portion of the coast was visited by II.M.S. Sulphur, in her voyage
round the world, in 1837, and the following arc Sir Edward Belcher's remarks,
made during that visit : —

" Icy Bay is very aptly so named, as Vancouver's Point Iliou must have dis-
solved, as well as the small island also mentioned, and on which I had lung set
my heart, as one of my principal positions. At noon we tacked, in 1 fathoms,
mud, having passed through a quantity of small ice, all of a soft nature. Tlie
whole of this bay, and the valley above it, was now found to be composed of
(apparently) snow-ice, about 30 ft. in height at the water cliff, and probably
based on a low, muddy beach, the water for some distance in contact not even

" f

*i '

ICY BAY— MOUNT ST. KLI.VS.

03U

-3

' <

showing n vipiile ; which, it occurred to mc, arose from its being charged with
floating vegetable mutter, probably pine-bark, &c.

" The small bergs, or reft masses of ice, forming the cliffy outlines of the
bay, were veined and variegated by mud streaks, like marble, and, where they
had been exposed to the sea, were excavated into arches, similar to some of
our chalk formations. The base of the point, named by Vancouver Point Biou,
probably remains ; but being free, for some distance, of the greater bergs, it
presented only a low sand or muddy spit, with ragged, dirty-coloured ice,
grounded. No island could bo traced, and our interest was too deeply excited
in seeking for it, to overlook such a desirable object.

" The current was found to set IJ mile per hour, West, vary'ng but slightly
in force, nnd not at all in direction. At this position we antiiored in 60 fathoms,
nuid, neor Mount St. Elias ; not a single drift tree was noticed. We were
within the white water about 2 miles, which I am now satisfied flows from the
ice, but why it preserves its uniformity of strength and direction is yet a
problem to be solved."

MOUNT ST. ELIAS is one of the most remarkable features of North- West
America. It is a noble conical mountain, rising far into the clouds, ^nd uU
though in a climate far from temperate, and of such an elevation as to lead to
the conclusion that it rises far into the limits of perpetual snow, yet Sir l<]dw.
Belcher says :— " Its edges, to the very summit, present a few black wrinkles,
and the depth of snow does not, even in the drifts, appear to be very deep. It
strnds, as it were, as before mentioned, upon the summit of the lofty range
which runs parallel with the sea coast." Its elevation, according to the angular
measurement of the U.S. Coast Survey, is about 19,500 ft. above the sea, and,
even when seen at 150 miles distant, it appears to be a mr estic mountiin. Its
discoverer was the celebrated Behring, who made the coast ucre on the 20th of
August, 1741, the name being applied from the saint to whom that day is dedi-
cated. lU lat. is 00° 20J' N., long. 141° 12' W .♦

Pamplona Eook, &o. — According to some information given to Vancouver's
party by the Russian oflicers ho met here, there is a very dangerous rocky shoal,
about 15 miles in length, lying by compass in a direction S. by W., G3 miles,
from a place called by them Leda Unala. This Mr. Puget conceived to be near
the point called Point Rinu. The Russian officer, Portoff, himself had been on
tlic shoal, taking sea otters, and stated that the first discovery of it was owing
to a Russian galliot having had the misfortune, some years before, to be wrecked
upon it. Two of the crew were drowned, but the rest escaped in their boats.
After that period an annual visit had been made to it, for the purpose of killing
sea otters, which were there met with.

From the Spaniards, also, Vancouver learnt that a very dangerous rock existed

• Fur further infornmtion, see a " Report on Mount St. Eliag, and some of the ndjaccnt
mountning," by Mr. W, H. Dull, in the U..S. Coaat Sur\-ey Report, 1875, pp. 157—188,

'})

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640

TBE COAST OF ALASKA.

in thii D«)ighbourhoo<], the situation of which they had taken great paini to
awertain, and had found it to lie E. by S. | S. from Capo Suckling, at the
distance of 78 milcH, and which waa called by them llook Pamplona. Uy this
bearing it appears to lie E. by N., 8 miles distant from the rocky shoal described
by the Ilussians above ; here it may be inferred that Portoff and the S{)aniarda
intended the same shoal, though it ia not stated by the latter to be so extensive
as by the former.

It is without doubt dangerously situated for the navigation of this coast, and
may possibly have proved fatal to Mr. Mcures's consort, Mr. Tipping, who, with
his vessel, was never heard of after leaving Prince William Sound in 1 786.

The Coast, from Icy Day, extends to the W. by S., and is low, without any-
thing remarkable for 40 miles, where there is a small river, called by the
Ilussians Jliko Balthe Unala It has a bar, and but littlu depth of water.
Cape Yaktaga, 23 miles W. ^ S. of Icy Cape, is a low rounding point of land ;
Tebcnkoff lays down some sunken rocks at 3 or 4 miles S.W. of it. At 4G
miles westward of this cape is the southern extremity of the extensive Latda
Ret/, stretching 6 miles from the shore.

A few leagues westward of the Kiko Balshe Unala is another small river,
emptying itself into a shallow bay. Its entrance is obstructed by a bar, on
which, with easterly winds, the sea breaks with great violence.

The coast between this and Cape Suckling shoots out into small projecting
points, with alternate low, cliffy, or white sandy beaches, being the termination
of u border of low woodhind country, extending some distonco within, until it
joins the foot of a eloscly-uuited chain of lufty frozen mountains, which is con-
nected with the same range that extends to the north-westward around Prince
William Sound and Cook Inlet. From these low projecting points some shoals
stretch into the ocean. Vancouver passed one of these at the distance of about
4 miles, sounding in 35 fathoms ; it extends in a southerly direction, 2 miles
from a low point of land that forms the West point of a bay, apparently very
shoal. From the West point of this bay, in lat. 60° 3' 30". the shore towards
Cape Suckling makes a small bend to the north-westward, but the general
direction of the coast is nearly N.E. and S.W., and appears to be firm and
compact.

CAPS 8UCKLIV0, so xwmed by Cook in his third voyage, is conspicuous.
Vancouver, differing much from Cook, places it in lat. 60-> 1', long. 143° 41',
but the longitude is considered by Kaper as 1 43° 54'.* The point of the cape
is low, but within it is a tolerably high hill, which is diKJoincd from the moun-
tains by low land, so that at a distance the cape looks like an island.

* It may be stated that the churts drawn up by Vancouver wore fuund ly Sir Edward
Belcher to be plainly erroneous about this region. All hi* Irunut bearingH and other ob-
servations indicated thii. A river appears to flow near Capo Suckling, which has not b«ga
noticed.— Voyage of the Suljikm; vol. i., p. 175,

'.))

CAPK SUCKLIXa— KAYE Oil KAYAK ISLAND.

641

Wheu near Capo Suckling, Capt. 8'u Edward Belcher snjrs: — "Our attention
was suddenly attracted by i\.o peculiar outline of the ridge in profile, which
one of our draughtsmen wm sketching, apparently toothed. On examining it
closely with a telescope, I found that although the surface presented to tho
naked eye a comparatively even outline, it was actually one mass of small, four-
sided, truncated pyramids, resembling salt-water mud which has been exposed
several days to the rays of a tropical sun (as in tropical salt marshes), or an
immense collection of huts.

*• For some time wc wore lost in conjecture, probably from the dnrk ash
colour ; but our attention being drawn to nearer objects, and the sun lending
his aid, we found the whole slope, from ridge to base, similarly composed ; nnd
08 the rays played on those near the beach, the brilliant illumination distinctly
showed them to be ice. We were divided between admiration and astonish-
ment. What could produce these special forms ? If one could fancy himself
perched on an eminence, about 500 ft. above a city of snow-whito pyramidal
houses, with smoke-coloured flat roofs, rising ridge above ridgo in steps, he
might form some faint idea of this beautiful freak of nature."

Cape Suckling is a low neck, stretching out from a mountainous, isolated
ridge, which terminates about 3 miles from it easterly, M'here the flats of tho
ice pjiramids just alluded to terminate. Apparently the river or opening near
Cape Suckling flows round its base. There is little doubt but that wo may
attribute the current to this outlet, arising, probably, from the melting of the
snow. We had less strength of current after passing this position. Immense
piles of drift wood were noticed on each side of the opening, but none elsewhere.
The current was northerly.

At the western limit of the cape commences a long reach of low sandy beach,
from 5 to 10 miles in width, and bordering the coast to Hinchinh: ook Island,
a distance of 75 miles. This flat is cut through by numerous streams, and at
1 to 2 miles distant the depth is not more than 5 to 10 fathoms.

Kaye or Kayak Island, to tho S.W. of the cape, is long and narrow. Its
South point, named by Vancouver Cape Hamond, is vory remarkable, being a
naked rock, elevated considerably above the land within it. There is also an
elevated rock lying off it, which, from some points of view, appears like a ruined
castle. A sunken rock is also said to lie 13 miles S.E. by S. \ S. of it, but its
existence is doubtful. Towards the sea the island terminates in a kind of bare,
sloping clifis, with a narrow, stony beach at their foot, and interrupted with
some gullies, in each of which is a rivulet or torrent, and the whole surmounted
with a growth of smallish pine trees. Off its N.E. point a rocky reef extends
to the beach.

" Kaye Island, viewed from the eastward, presents the appearance of two
islands. The southern is a high table-rock, free from trees and vegetation,
and of a whitish hue ; the other is moderately high land for this region, with
North Pacific. 4 N

643

THE COAST OF ALASKA.

three bare pealu, its lower region being well wooded." — Sir Edw. Btleher,
Tol. i., p. 70.

Wingham Island.— About 2 miles off the N.W. point of Kaye Island is
Winghum l8lp"«l, low, and about 4 miles long. Off its N.E. point, Point
Meturier, are Mme elevated rooks. Vancouver says there is a tolerably well-
sheltered roadstead on its eastern side, reached by passing its North end from
the West through a narrow channel and close to the shore. Within this, and
to the W. by N. of Cape Suckling, is ComptroUer Bay, which is shoal, and
extends 20 miles westward to Point Hey.

Wingham Island, which can be seen to nearly its whole length between Capo
Suckling and Point Le Mesurier, is moderately elevated, rising in three hum-
mocks, which arc bare on their summits. The southern, at a distance, owing
to the lowness of the neck, appears separated. The whole is well clothed with
trees. — Sir Edward Belcher.

At about 40 miles from Capo Suckling is the mouth of Atna or Copper River,
the latter name being taken from the deposits of native copper on its banks.
There was a llussian trading post some distance up the river, and tho district
is reported to be scantily peopled.

Xiddleton Island (Otchek). — ^The position of this isolated island is not
positively determined. It is reported to be above 7 miles long and 3 miles
broad, its North end being in lat. 59^ 30' N., long. 146° 30' W. Reefs extend
3 miles off each end of tho island, and off the northern end is a rock, upon
which the water breaki in great jets, and thence named tho Fountain. About
the middle of its western side is a small cove, with 13 fathoms over gravel.
The island is low and level, and is frequented by the natives for sea-weed and
seals.

Sea Otter Bank lies nearly equi-distont between Otchek and Kayak Islands,
being 23 miles N. by E. | E. from the former, and 32 miles E. by N. J N.
from the South end of the latter. It is laid down as two rocks, and has not
been examined.

PBINliE WILLIAM SOUND was first explored by Capt. Cook in his lost
voyage.* Although this extensive inlet was before known to the Russians, the
coast took him ten days to traverse, 1 1th to 2l8t of May, 1778, a week of which
was spent in the inlet ; but, from the subsequent survey of Cupt. Vancouver,
it was found that no portion of his celebrated predecessor's labours were so
defectively described and delineated as this, which leads t« the supposition that
some important authority has been omitted in the di-awing up of the narrative,
which would not have occurred had the unfortunate circumnavigator survived
to superintend its publication. From the minute examination which was mado

* IMnce William Sound, and particularly its N.E. part, was visited by Senr. Fidalgo, in
1790, for tho purposo of inquiring into the nature and extent of tho Uussiun establishments
in those regions.

PRINCE WILLIAM SOUND— IIINCIIINBROOK ISLAND. 643

of it by Vnncouver, it proved to be a branch of the ocean that requires the
grcntest circumspection to navigote ; nnd although it diverges into many ex-
tensive arms, yet none of them can be considered as commodious harbours, on
account of the rocks and shoals that obstruct the approaches to them, or of the
very great depth of water about their entrances.

The N.E. point of the coast, where the sound commences, is Cape WUthed,
which is 43 miles from Point Hey, last described, the coast between being
fronted by a very extensive mud-flat. The outward coast of the sound is
formed by Hinchinbrook and Montagu Islands ; between and to the West of
which are the entrancer ^o it.

Many of the islands and projecting points are low and wooded, but behind
these rise icy moimtains. The waters of the sound are very deep, the rise and
fall of the tide large, and the currents are very strong, with strong tide rip-
plings in the entrance between Port Etches and Montagu Island. The weather
here is very changeable, und sudden squalls of wind and thick fogs prevail.

HINCHINBROOK ISLAND is the north-easternmost of those before Prince
William Soimd. Its N.E. point, named Point Bentinck, is opposite to Point
Witshcd, about 3 miles asunder, the space between occupied by a low, barren,
uninterrupted sand at low water, being a continuation of the sand-bank extend-
ing from Comptroller Bay, and also along the coast to the northward of Point
Witshed. It is dry at low water, but at high water it was stated that there is
a boat channel, though Vancouver's party found the whole space occupied by
a most tremendous surf, rendering any passage at that time impracticable.
Cape Hinchinbrook, the S.W. point of the island, is 20 miles S.W. by S. i S.
of Point Bentinck, nnd is placed by Vancouver in lat. 60° 16^', long, (corrected)
146° 27'. In a direction S. by W., 7 miles from the cape, are Seal Bocks, a
barren, flat, rocky islet, with several rocks lying at a small distance from it.
'I'his lies, therefore, off the entrance to the sound between Hinchinbrook and
the N.E. end of Montagu Island.

Between Montagu and Hinchinbrook Islands Captain Sir Edward Belcher
found shoal water, contrary to Vancouver's idea, rendering it necessary to an-
chor in 17 fathoms, the tide running at 3 knots.

Port Etchei,* or Nutchek Bay, is on the eastern side of the entrance into
the sound, consequently on the western end of Hinchinbrook Island. The
depth off the North point of the entrance is very great ; no bottom with 100
fathoms could be found within a quarter of a mile of the shore. Off this point

* Port Etches dorires its name from Ilichard Cadman Etches, a merchant, who, with
others, entered into a trading partnership (May, 1785), under the tille of the Kinp^ George's
Sound "ompany, for carrying on the fur trade on this coast, having procured a licence for
this purpose from the South Sea Company. The voyages of Captains Portlock and Dixon,
in the King George and Queen Chnrlotte, in and subsequent to 1786, were undertaken for
tids company*

> t

644

THE COAST OF ALASKA.

•re Bomo rocky islets, and there are some within the entrance {Porpoise lioclci),
and until these arc past there is no depth for anchoroge. On the North side
of the port is a lagoon, Conitandne Harbour, within which was a Ilussinn estab-
lishment, on a situation commanding the low narrow peninsula, and formed in
1793, when some ship building was being carried on.*

The entrance is 1^ mile wide in its narrowest part, and thence the bay runs
N.E. for 5^ miles, terminating in a narrow shallow bay.

The narrow channel into Constantine or Brook Harbour passes around
Phipps Point. This lagoon is about 2 miles long, with shallow water, but
affording a channel of 12 ft. water nearly tu Fort Constantine, in which thn
current sometimes runs at the rate of 4 knots. Off the entrance there is an-
ohorago in 5 to 7 fathoms, eren bottom, half a mile from the shore. Fish is
plentiful.

Port Etches was visited by H.M.S. Sulphur, in 1837. In the account of the
voyage is the following : — " This establishment of the Imperial Russian Fur
Company consists of the official resident, eight Russians, and fifty Aleutian
and other allies. It is calculated to stand a tolerable siege, under determined
hands."

Port Etches might furnish a most complete harbour, if vessels frequented
these regions, or a station should ever be required in so high a latitude. The
currents, however, between it and Montagu Island render it difficult of ap-
proach ; and the Russian commandant stated that many sunken rocks (but
perhaps of 10 or 15 fathoms) lie off Cape Hinohinbrook. Capt. Belcher's ob-
sei vations make Vancouver nearly as much in error in longitude aa he ascribes
to Cook.

Phippa Point, the N.E. or opposite extremity of the peninsula, on which is
the Russian establishment, is placed by Sir Edw. Belcher in lat. 60" 21' 12" N.,
long. 146'' 50' 15" W. ; but later observations place it 20 miles farther to the
eastward. It is high water, on full and change, at 1** 15"* ; rise, 9^ ft.

Hawkini Island is to the N.N.E. of Hinchinbrook Island, and is about 20
miles long, N.E. by N. ^ N. and S.W. by S. i S. On its southern side is the
channel before mentioned, which is contracted by the sand-bank on the S.E.
shore to a narrow, difficult channel, against the southern shore of the island.
Off the entrance of the passage between Hawkins and Hinchinbrook Islands is
a shoal, and in the passage are some islets and rocks.

On the North side of Hawkins Island is Port Cordova, an arm extending
from its N.W. point about 13 miles in an easterly direction. Within these
limits are a bay and a small branch, in which are several rocks and rocky
islets. These shores are in general low, ending in pebbly beaches, where

* Upon Garden Island Oapt. Bolcher found a pine that was marked by Portlock, Juljr
22, 1787, and was very noiirly destroying it.— (Belcher, Tol. i., p. 73). At present the
island is covered with pine trees, without many traces of the garden.

rniNCE WILLIAM SOUND-PUKRTO DE VALDES.

648

shoal water extends some distance, and renders landing nt low tide rtrj un-
pleasant. To the northward is Port Oravina. The 8.K. point of its entrance
is placed by Vancouver in lat. 60^ 41', long. 146° 11^', ond theno* it extends
•bout 10 miles to the N.E.

Snug Corner Bay is on the N.W. end of the peninsula separating Ports
OntTina and Fidalgu. Its West point is in lat. 60° 45', long. 146" 35'. Cnpt.
Cook said it was a ver}* snug place, with a depth of 3 to 7 fathoms, OTer mud.

Fort Fidalgo is so named after the Spanish commander who visited it in
1790. It extends in a winding direction to lat. 60° 55', long. 145° 48'; its
width being about 2 miles, and its length 28 miles. Towards it« upper end
arc some islands, and itt shores ore pleasingly diversified by trees. A small
inlet runs in, 2 miles, in a N. by W. direction, at the N.W. point of Port
Fidnlgo, and 4| miles South from its West point is tha South end of Bligh
Island. The shores are also rocky. Bligh Iiland is 7 miles long N.W. by W.
and S.B. by E., and some islands off its North end form the southern side of
the entrance to Puerto de Yaldes.

Pnerto de Valdes was so nomed by Sefir. Fidalgo, and extends for 12 miles
to the North, where a small brook, supplied by the dissc 'ing snow and ice,
flows into the arm, and from thenoe extends 5 miles in a N.E. by E. direction
to its termination in shallow water. The port is from Ij^ to 3 miles in breadth.
Its West point is called Point Fretmantle, and is in lat. 60° 57', long. 146° 49".

Southward of Point Freemantle is an island 7 miles long, in a S.S.W. direc-
tion, and 3 miles broad ; within it is a passage 1| mile wide, with two bays on
the northern side.

Westward of this island is an arm extending about 4 leagues to the N.W. by N.,
and terminating at the foot of a continuation of the range of lofty mountains.
It is, in general, about 3 miles wide, and its western coast terminates to the
South, in Point Pellew, and from this the coast takes an irregular S.W. direc-
tion, 10 miles, toward the East point of a passage leading northward. The
shores are low, and bounded by islets and rocks.

From Point Pellew a channel extends about 8 leagues in length, to the
W.N.W. This in some places is a mile, and in others not a quarter of a mile
broad ; its West side is formed by Etther ItUmd. At 4 miles N.W. by N.
from its farther end is Point Pakenham, which is the S.W. point of Port Wells.
This extends in a N. by W. direction, and terminated in a firm and compact
body of ice. To the westward of the point is another unimportant bay, and
hence the coast pursues a southerly direction, 5 leagues, to Point Pigot. The
continent is here composed of a stupendous range of snowy mountains, from
whose base low projecting land extends, jutting out into points, and forming
the shores, which are thinly wooded with dwarf pines and stunted alders.

Point Pigot and Point Cochrane, opposite to it, form the entrance to Pattagt
Canal. The principal branch extends from Point Pigot S.W. by W., 13 miles,
and then S. by W>« 4 miles farther, terminating in lat. 60° 48'. Here the head

(

646

THE COAST OF ALASKA.

of the inlet rcnchcs within 1 2 miles of Turnngain Arm, nt the head of Cook
Inlet, hereafter described. The isthmui itself is a valley of some breadth,
which, though containing elevated land, was very free from snow (in Juno),
and appeared to bo perfectly easy of access. Dy it the Ilussians, and Indians
also, communicated with either of these extensive sounds. The other branch
extends 2( leagues S.W. by S. from Point Cochrane, which is 1^ mile E. by 8.
from Point Pigot. Eight miles E.N.E. from Point Cochrane is Point C'ulron,
off which is an island about 3 miles from the shore, and about 4 miles long ;
and following the coast southward, for 6 miles, wo arrive at an opening about
2 miles wide. From the South point of the entrance, 1 1 miles along a shore
broken into small bays, lined by innumerable rocks, and exposed to the whole
range of the N.E. swell from the sound, brings you to Point Nowell, in Int.
60° 27'.

Uetwcon this coast and the ocenn are a considerable number of largo islands,
which lie generally in a N. by W. and S. by E. diroction. The coast of the
continent runs, but in a very irregular manner, in the same direction, to Cape
Ptiffet, in lat. 50° 55', long. 148° 3', thit being the point <vhcre the shores of
the main land form the seaward face.

From Point Nowell the main coast turns to S. by W. for iibout 1 1 miles, to
a ])oint where an arm extends firtt to W. by N., and then terminates to the
S.E. by S., in a circular bnsin full of rocks ; but about midway between the
point and this are two arms extending 4 miles in a westerly direction. Before
this coast is an island, following its direction at 2 miles distant, p.ud 3^ leagues
long, forming a passage, but full of rocks. At 5^ miles to E. by S. from the
South point of the arm first mentioned is Point Countess, in lat. 60" 13'. To
the West is a bay, about 4^ miles deep, terminating in a compact body of ice
that descended from high perpendicular cliffs to the water side. The coast
southward of Point Countess forms the N.W. side of a narrow channel, 1 1 miles
in length, in a S.S.W. direction. The North point of the southern end of this
strait* is Point Waters ; it has some rocks and breakers before it. This point
is on the eastern side of Port Bainbridge, an inlet from the ocean, extending
18 miles in length from its entrance, in a N.W. by N. direction. From its
being directly open to the ocean, although at this distance from it, the wind,
when it sets up or down the channel, sends such a violent sea upon it, that
landing is dangerous. Point Pyke, on the western side, is 6 miles from Point
Waters. It is remarkable for its sugar-loaf form, and has some rocky islets off
it. At 5 miles S.E. by E. from Point Fyke is Point Elrington, the south-eastern

* It was in this strnit that Vancouver's party encountered a violent storm, Juno, 1704;
a vory heavy gust of wind brought down from a considerable height og the mountain siJd
an immense mass of earth, trees, and frosen snow, which foil at a distance not exceeding a
hundred yards from the assembled party. They observed in other places the offects of
similar storms, which will serve as a warning to any one on these shores.

PRINCF, WILLIAM SOUND— MONTAGU ISLAND.

047

point of Port Bainbridgo, and the soutb-westornmott part of a high, ruggod
cluster of islands. Opposite to Point Elrington is Capo Pugct, before men*
tioned, on the main land.

The island, of which Points Klrington and Pyke form a portion, is high and
rugged, and about 6 leagues in length, in n general N. by W. direction. La-
touch$ Island lies otf its eastern side, separated by n channel 1} mile broad.
Its northern point is named Point Grace. Knighl Iiland lies to the northward
of these, and is upwards of 9 leagues in length in the same direction ; and
beyond thi;^, again, are some others of less dimensions.

Between this and Montagu Island is Green Island, so named by Cook, in
May, 1778, from its being entirely free from snow, nnd covered witli wood and
verdure. The islands near the open son nrc, as before stated, ck'vi< .< ' and
rocky; those within nro low ones. At 1 or 1^ league N.W. by N. J N. from
the North point of Oreen Island, are some ledges of rocks, soir'* above and
others under water, making it very unsafe plying in this neigh! .hood.

MONTAGU TSL£.?ID is the largest and principal island of Prince \\ Jlliim
Sound, it being, according to Vancouver's survey, 40 miles in ler^^th, aom
North ( ^outh; its average breadth is 7 miles. Capo CIcarc, it . South point,
is in lat. 69'' 40', long. 147° 40'. The passage between it and Port Etolips is
5^ miles wide, forming the principal entrance to the sound, and tbiougu it the
tides rush very strongly.

The passage on the inside, or to N.W. of the island, forms an entrance into
Prince William Sound, between it and Latouehc and Qrcen Islands, of course
varying in breadth. On the N.W. shore of the island are two or three open
anchorages protected from the S.K. The two bays, one named by Portlock
Ilemminy Bay, nnd the other M^Leod Harbour, are stated by Mr. Whidbcy to
be very exposed anchorages, and nothing more than stopping places in navi-
gating this channel.

Port Basil, or M'Leod Harbour, is 12 miles within the S.W. point of Mon-
tagu Island, and nearly abreast of Latouehc Island. Portlock says its outer
points. Point Bryant on the South, and Point Woodcock on the North, are
about 2 miles apart, and joined by a bank of 7 or 8 fathoms, black sand and
mud, within which is a depth of 21 to 12 fathoms. Within it takes a turn to
tlic North, round a point which is quite bold-to, and may be passed close. A
ship can lie in 4^ or 5 fathoms water, with the South point of the bay just shut
in with this point, at about a cable's length from the shore. All ships coming
into this harbour ought to keep the shore of Montagu Island on board as close
as they can.

About 5 leagues from M'Leod Harbour, Portlock says he came to a deep
wide bay, named Hanning Bay, where vessels may safely anc'noi ,'n 10 to 20
fathoms, mud. A stream, frequented by salmon, enters its South part. Near
Green Isles, 4 miles westward of Chalmers Harbour, the water shoals, 7 and 8
fathoms being frequently found by Portlock, with patches of kelp.

648

THE COAST OF ALASKA.

I i

i! i

11 :

Port Chalmers is on the West side, and toward the North end of Montagu
Island, Point Gilmour, its North point, is in lat 60° 16' N., long. 147" 5' W.
Two islets, and rocky patches with kelp, lie off the entrance, which is half a
mile wide. The harbour thence extends about 1^ mile to the '>^.¥ , and has a
landlocked cove, 1 mile from the entrance, with good anchorage, in 7 fathoms,
mud.

YoncouTer sajs : — " The place of our anchoring in Port Chalmers can only
be considered as a small cove, on a rugged rocky coast, very difficult of access
or egress." Stockdale Harbour, too, is only a bay f ill of rocks, and of course
not worthy of particular attention. The shores about Port Chalmers are in
general low, and very swampy in many places, on which the sea appeared to
be making rapid encroachments, the remains of the forests being seen below
high-water mark. Off the entrance to the harbour are several lurking rocks,
which make its approach very dangerous, as before stated. Great care is
necessary to avoid them, as some are not always visible.

The approaches to this harbour, from the South, are also much incommoded
by two small shoals midway between the South point of the harbour and a
rugged rock that lies about a mile from the East side of the largest of Green
Islands. The southernmost of these shoals has 6 fathoms least water, and the
other, three-quarters of a mile north-eastward of it, has a small patch of weeds
in 3 fathoms.

It is high water at Port Chalmers about one hour after the moon passes the
meridian; the current sets southward, and there is no diuught into the har-
bour. Springs rise 13 and 14^ ft., the night tides rising above a foot more
than those in the day.

The strait between Montagu and Green Islands, to the northward of Port
Chalmers, is embarrassed by a line of sunken rocks, which are very steep-to,
affording no indication of their proximity by the lead. From the N.W. point
of Montagu Island a ledge of rocks extends half a mile. Off the North point
of Green Island, 3 miles distant, is a ledge of rocks, and to the northward of
these again is another. The N.E. end of Montagu Island is divided into bays
or rounds, two of >Nhich appear capacious, but from their points of entrance
(as well as within them) rocks extend a considerable distance. As this side of
the island is greatly exposed to the prevailing winds, great caution ought to be
observed in navigating near its shores.

From the N.E. point of Montagu Island its eastern shores run compactly to
the S. by W. for 31 miles, to a low projecting point covered with wood. Off
it lies a cluster of six rocky islets, chiefly composed of steep cliffs, nearly level
on their tops, which may serve as a direction in thick or gloomy weather to the
South point of Montagu Island, lying from them S.W. by S., di$ ant about 16
miles. They are tolerably well wooded, and are not liable to be mistaken, par-
ticularly for the Chiswell Isles (about 63 miles to the S.W. ^ S.), because thoso
appear to be entirely barren.

CHISWELL ISLES-CAPE ELIZABETH.

640

From Capo Puget to Cape Elizabeth the shores have been well explored by
Russian navigators, and their reports show that the coast line is broken by bays
and coves, but none offering good anchorage, the water being deep close to the
shores. The coast is rocky and mountainous, yet covered with wood.

Chiswell Isles arc a group of naked rugged rocks, seemingly destitute of soil
and any kind of vegetation. The centre of the southernmost group, named
iSeal Roch, is in lat. 5<J° 31', long. 149° 2'. From this, the easternmost, which
is a single detached rock, lies N.N.E., about 3 miles distant ; and the northern-
most, which has several islets and rocks about it, lies N.N.W., 5 miles distant.
Blying Sound of the Russians, called by Portlock Port Andrews, lies within
Chiswell Isles.

Jiesurrection Bay, 15 miles N.E. of Chiswell Isles, is an extensive arm, 15
to 20 miles long, and 3 to 6 miles wide. The water is very deep, and the
climate is represented to be severe. The Russian- American Company bad a
post here, and a ship-yard.

To the south-westward of Chiswell Isles the coast presents a broken appear-
ance as fur as Pie Islands, the South extreme of the southernmost of which
lies in lat. 59'' 19', long. 149° 51'. This island, in several points of view, forms
a conspicuous peak, and nllliough not remarkable for its great height, yet, from
its singular appearance, it is not likely to be mistaken in this neighbourhood,
as it descends with great regularity from its summit to the water's edge. A
group of rocks lying S.W. | W., 4 miles from it, must be very dangerous in
thick weather, as it is probably covered at high water, spring tides.

Betweeu Pic Islands and Point Gore, a distance of 18 miles, the coast is in
most parts very mountainous, and descends rather quickly into the ocean.
Point Gore is placed by Vancouver in lat. 59° 11', long, (corrected) 150° 22'.
Towards the sea this projecting promontory terminates in an abrupt cliff,
moderately elevated, and is connected to the main land by a low peninsula
covered with trees. To the westward of the point is Fori Dick, running 10
miles northward.

CAFE ELIZABETH, the S.E. point of the mouth of Cook Inlet, is placed
by Voucouver in lat. 59° 9', long, (corrected) 151° 18'. The coast here is com*
posed of high land,, before which lie the Tchugatz Islands, three large islands
and some rocks. The cape is itself the largest of these, and the westernmost
of them. To the 'si.Vf. of the middle island is a cluster of rocks, both above
end below the water's surface.

Port Chatham, so named by Vancouver from his tender, is situated behind
the island which forms Cape Elizabeth, and from that promontory extends to a
point in a N. by E. i E. direction 5 J miles, and from thence it terminates in
an excellent harbour, about 2 miles long S.W. by W. J W. and N.E. by E. J E,,
and 1 mile broad, affording secure and convenient anchorage. The passage
into it, ^)ns8ing to the N.W. of C'ape Elizabeth, is free from all obstructions
North Pacific. 4 o

LBl

I II

I I

650

THE COAST OF ALASKA.

but such as arc sufficiently conspicuous or easily avoided. The soundings in
Port Chatham aro tolerably regular, from 5 to 25 fathoms, the bottom a stiff
clay ; the shores in most places are a low border, very well wooded with pine
trees and some shrubs.

I'he Chatham anchorage, off an excellent run of water, was found to be in
lilt. 59° 14'. The rise and fall of the tide, near the change of the moon, were
14 ft., but during neap tides not more than 10 or 11 ft. High water about an
liour after the moon had passed the meridian ; but greatly influenced by the
form and direction of the winds. The Russian establishment, Fori Alexandroffsk,
was in a bay to the westward of Port Chatham.

KENAY PENINSULA separates the two extensive inlets called Prince
William Sound and Cook Inlet. There were several Russian establishments on
its shores, and it is inhabited by a tribe which has given the name, Kenaians,
to all the Indians North of the Copper River, and "West of the Eocky Moun-
tains, except the Aleutians and Esquimaux. They are a proud and fearless
race, but were represented by the Russians and those employed by the Tele-
graph Company, as peaceable and well disposed, but they arc always ready to
resist any afli-ont or wrong.

COOK INLET.

This extensive arm of the ocean was discovered by Capt. Cook, in 1778, but
he explored it imperfectly, supposing that it was much more extensive than it
was found to be by Vancouver in 1794. Cook thought that it was the estuary
of a great river, and as he did not name it, Lord Sandwich directed that it
should be called Cook's River ; but when Vancouver penetrated to its head, he
properly called it Cook's Inlet. From the entrance the general direction of
Cook Inlet is North, 160 miles, decreasing in breadth towards its head.

The entrance lies between Capo Elizabeth and Cape Douglas, 47 miles to
S.W., and nearly midway between lie the Barren Islands, very high and
ban-en, disposed in two principal groups, 13 miles in extent E.N.E. and
W.S.W. The possage N.E. of them is called the eastern passage, and tho
currents rush through it with great velocity, causing great tide rips at certain
times.

Point Bade, so named by Cook, May 26, 1778, lies 11 miles N.W. by W.
from Cape Elizabeth, and is a lofty promontory, terminating in a low wooded
point, guarded by some rocks. Off it the ebb runs at the rate of 2 knots per
hour, and the tide is reported to rise 14 ft. From this the coast trends
N.U. by N. i N., with a chain of mountains inland extending in the same
direction. The land on the coast is woody, and there seemed to be no deficiency
of harbours.

Graham Harbonr is 5 miles from Point Bede. Tho entrance, according to
Portlock's sketch, is between littssian 2'oint on the South, off which n rocky

COOK INLET— CHUGACHNIK BAY.

651

•hoal dries at hnlf ebb nearly li mile out, and Dangerous Point on Ibe North,
2 J miles to N. by W. A reef extends 1 mile \V. by N. J N. of the latter, and
detached rocks for three-quarters of a mile S. by W. i \V. of it. On Russian
Point was a Russian station, and an Aleutian village, and an extensive shoal
makes off for a mile. The general direction of the bay is East, 4^ miles, then
S.E. i E., 2 miles, ending in extensive mud-flats, with some small streams, fre-
quented by salmon. Safe anchorage may be had anywhere, and towards the
head in 10 fathoms, mud. There are several projecting points on each side of
the harbour, which form very good and snug bays, where a ship might, if
necessary, be hauled on shore in the greatest safety. Both wood and fresh
water are abundant.

At 1 mile within the entrance lies Passage Island, with a long reef extend-
ing over a mile S.W. J S. from its S.W. point, nearly across the South passage
to Bussian Point, though Portlock says he examined this channel ond found
plenty of water. The passage on the North side of the island is about 2i cables
wide, with 17 fathoms water, over mud. From the North shore, abreast the
East end of the island, sunken rocks stretch about halfway across the harbour.

Coal Bay, on the North side, to the eastward of Dangerous Cape, is a pretty
good one, carrying soundings in 14, 12, and 8 fathoms, fine black sand, less
than half n mile in extent. Cove Bay, twice as large as Coal Bay, lies 1 mile
E. jg N. from the latter, with good anchorage in 10 to 15 fathoms.

Captains Portlock and Dixon landed on the West side of Coal Bay, and in
wr^lking round discovered two veins of canncl coal, situated near some hills
just by the beach, about the midd'e of the bay, and with very little trouble
several large pieces were got out of the bank.

The best time to run into this harbour is as near low water as possible.
Whatever danger there is may then be seen, cither from beds of kelp, or the
rocks showing themselves above water.

CHUGACHNIK, or Tschougatschouk Bay, lies to the N.N.W., and its
N.W. extremity is- Anchor Point, in lat. 59" 39'. At 19 or 20 miles N.E. by
N. i N. from the reef off Dangerous Cape is Entrance Point, the North point
of the entrance to the bay, in lat. 59° 37' 10", long. 151" 22' 10". This point
is low, and stretches halfway across the entrance, in which the depth is 1 to
27 fathoms. Two sunken rocks arc i-eported to lie almost in the middle of the
approaches, one at 5J miles S.W. i S. from Entrance Point, and the other 2J
miles S.W. by S. from the point From this point the bay trends N. by E. J E.,
19 miles, to its head, but the last 4 miles are occupied by a broad flat. East-
ward of Entrance Point is the anchorage bay, about 1 J mile in extent, with 7
fathoms water. Abreast the anchorage is a seam of coal, 7 ft. thick. At 3
miles E. by N. of Entrance Point is an islet joined to the shore by a low sand
tongue.

The climate of this bay is much preferable to that at Graham Harbour.
Navigators report that they have anchored here in beautiful weather, when

■ *

a I

1 hi

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653

THE COAST OP ALASKA.

they could sec the fog and rnin clouds in the vicinity of Cape Elizabeth. In
cold winters, however, the inlet freezes nearly as far Soutli ns Anchor Point.

Between Entrance Point and Anchor Point, 21 miles to the south-westward,
the coast runs nearly straight, and from hence, according to Vancouver's chart,
the coast pursues a nearly straight direction, 60 miles, to Fort Nicholas, the
Russian establishment, at the mouth of Kaknu River, 8 miles to the S.E. by E.
of the East Foreland.

The 8.W. limit of Cook Inlet may be placed at Cape Douglas, a long, low,
sandy point, in lat. 58° 52', long. 153° 3'. The coast hereabout is composed of
a low tract of country, stretching from the base of very lofty mountains,
wrapped in snow (May, 1794). Off the cape, 7 or 8 miles to the northward,
lies a very low flat island, Shaw Island, off the N.E. point of which is a ledge
of rocks. To the northward of the mountains forming the promontory of Cape
Douglas, is a ' fly, rugged ridge, connected by land less elevated, and forming
a deep bay between the cape and the lower borders of Ouchouganat Island, or
Mount Augustin. The shores of this bay, Bourdieu Bay, in most directions
seem compact, but encumbered with large rocks and stones ; the depth of water
across it, North and South, is from 9 to 12 fathoms.

OTJCHOUOANAT ISLAND, or Mount Augustin, is a very remarkable
island, rising with a uniform ascent from the shores to its lofty summit, which
is nearly perpendicular, to the centre of the island, inclining somewhat to its
eastern side, and being in lat. 59° 22', long. 153° 15'. It is about 9 leagues in
circuit, and forms a lofty, uniform, conical mountain, presenting nearly the
same appearance from every point of view, and clothed with snow and ice down
to the water's edge. The width of the passage between it and the main land
is about G miles.

Advoncing northward along the shores of the main land, it will appear in-
dented and broken into small coves and bays. In lat. 59^ 42' are three islets,
against the shore, beh<nd which there is appearance of anchorage and shelter.
There is nothing remarkable on the ccast* until we come to the northward of
lat. 60°, where there are two openings, the northern of which is the principal.
It runs to the W.S.W., and then S.S.W. towards the foot of a conspicuous

• The weather now (April 18, 1794), though extremely cold (the mercury etanding at
25°), was very cheerful, and afforded us an oxcellc-nt visw of the surrounding region, com-
posed, at n little distance from the river, of stupendous mountains, whose rugged and ro-
mantic forms, clothed in a perpetual sheet of ice and snow, presented n prospect, though
magnificently grand, yet dreary, cold, and inhospitable. In the midst of these appeared
the volcano, near the summit of which, from two distinct craters on its south-eastern side,
Were emitted large columns of whitish smoke, unless, ns was supposed by some on board,
it was vapour arising from hot springs in that neighbourhood ; but how far this conjecture
was consistent with the severity of the climate at the top of that lofty mountain is not
within the limits of my judgment to determine. — Vancouver, vol. iii., p. 100.

COOK INLET.

AAA

098

Toleano, Iliamimk Peak, 12,066 ft. high, which lies in Int. 60' 6', long.
153" 15'.

From the mouth of this opening to the West and East Forelands, where the
breadth of Cook Inlet is considerably contracted, the distance is 43 miles, the
distance between its shores at this part being about 30 miles. In the inter-
mediate space lies an island, named by the Russians Coulgiak Island, which
divides the inlet here into two channels, the N.W. of which is much encum-
bered by dangerous and extensive shoals. The island itself is about 13 miles
long, N. i E. and S. i W., and is narrow. Vancouver landed on the South
point of a shallow bay on its N.W. side, towards its S. W. extremity. The snow,
which was lying very deep on the ground (April 17, 1794), confined their
walk to the beach, on which was lodged some small drift wood, and on it they
found some pieces of coal, resembling cannel coal. The more important pnrt
of this island to the navigator is a dangerous shoal, which extends, in its direc-
tion from the S.W. end, for the distance of at least 2 leagues. From the
great variety of soundings on passing over it, it appears to be very uneven, as
in several instances the ship struck violently on some detached pieces of rock,
80 that it is infinitely more dangerous than a mere spit of sand. This shoal
continues all along the S.E. shore of the island to 2 miles distance off it.

Abreast of the S.W. point, on the West shore, is Point Harriet, which is a
moderately high steep cliff. Off the point a shoal extends a league, on the
outer edge of which there is only 3 fathoms. To the N.E. of this again, the
channel between the island and the western shore has some extensive shouls.
One lies off the middle of the island, and stretches to the northward ; it is be-
tween 6 and 7 miles from the main land, and is nearly a league from the West
side of the island.

Beyond this the shores of Cook Inlet are comparatively low, or only moderately
elevated, jutting out into three remarkable steep cliffy points, named the East,
West, and North Forelaads ; the two former forming the Narrows. A small
shonl lies between the N.E. end of Coulgiak Island and the Narrows, bearing
from the former N.N.E., distant ^ miles.

The . t Foreland is in lat. 60" 42', long. lt\° 25', and is about 8^ miles
S.W. by W. J W. from the East Foreland. A rock, visible only ot half tide,
lies about a quart er of a mile from the extremity of the point.

Between the West Foreland and the North Foreland, both of which are on
the western shore, the coast forms a spacious open bay, called by Fortlock
Trading Bay. At the head of this was a Russian establishment. Shallow wate^
lines the shore in the southern part of this bay.

The S.E. shore, eastward of the East Foreland, forms a shallow bay, between
it and n point 6 miles N.N.E. above it, with soundings of 7 and 8 fathoms
within a convenient distance of the shore, sheltered from the East, South, and
S.W. quarters. Beyond this point, and between it and a point lying 7 miles
S.W. by S. I S. from Point Possession, a distance of 21 miles, the outer bank

THE COAST OF ALASKA.

\ iii

forms a perfect labyrinth of conical rocks, detached from each other on a bank
of sand and small stones, extending 1 and 1 ^ league from the shore. These
rocks are of different elevations, and few of them are of sufficient heiglit to
appear above high-water level. This very extraordinary rugged region appears
to join to the southern side of the shoal on which Cook's ship, the Resolution,
grounded in 1778. This shoal extends halfway over the strait, and its outer
end is about 9 miles nearly N.N.W. from the East Foreland.

The North Foreland is in lat. Gl" 4', long. 150° 40', and on it Vancouver
found the Bussian factory. For 2 leagues to the N.N.E. of this, along the
western shore, tolerable anchorage is found. But this space is greatly exposed
to the East and S.E. winds, the prevalent and most violent in this country.
From hence the shoals gradually stretch to the distance of 5 miles from the
shore, until they join Point Mackenzie.

Tumagain Island lies at the head of the more extensive part of Cook Inlet ;
its West end is in lat. 61° 8'. It is about 3^ miles long, N.E. ^ N. and
S.W. J S., and 1^ mi'e broad, lying in the entrance of a branch diverging from
the main inlet in a N.E. direction. Its entrance lies between Point Mackenzie
on tlie North, and Point Woromoto, S. J W., 2 miles from it. Cook's vessel
penetrated this inlet a short distance, but left its termination undiscovered.
Vancouver anchored 5 miles above its entrance, and found that all above him
became, at low wntei, a succession of dry sand-banks, occupying the whole of
the space up to its head, 18 miles further on, in lat. 61° 29', long. 149^ 7'. At
high tide it becomes an extensive sheet of water.

Tumagain Arm, the southernmost branch, is the principal. It was called
by Cook Txtrnayain liiver, and by Vancouver Tumagain Arm, he having de-
cided its real character. Its entrance lies between Point Campbell, which is
S. ^ E. 4 miles from Point Woronzow, and Point Possession on the southern
shore. At 14 or 16 miles above these the shores converge again, up to which
jioints they are 3 or 4 leagues asunder, but they caimot be approached on account
of the shallow flats, and a shoal also lies in mid-channel.

The tide here rises 13 ft. perpendicularly, so that at low water the remain-
ing portion of the arm is dry, or nearly so. It extends 22 miles above these
points, and thus approaches to within 12 miles of the head of Passage Canal,
in the N.W. part of Prince William Sound, described on page 645. Across
this isthmus the Russians and Indians communicated with these two extensive
inland waters, as there mentioned.

The time of high water in the N.E. arm is about six hours after the moon
passes the meridian, and the rise and fall at springs is estimated at about 27 ft.

.^^.^.^.iiiiiM^^ist,.

( 655 )

THE KODIAK ABCHIPELAOO.

The KODIAE (or Kadiak) ABCHIPELAOO was first seen by Behring,
on his voyage of discovery, on returning from the American coast, in 1741.
They were been in 1763 by the liussinn merchant GlotofT. In 1768, Chelighoff
took possession of them in the name of a company of merchants for the trade in
furs, of which he was the chief; and, in 1799, they were granted in full pos-
session to the Russian- American Company.

The archipelago is composed of two principal islands, Kodiak and Afognak,
and several smaller islets in their neighbourhood, separated from the coast by
Petrics or Chelikofif Strait, 25 miles wide.

Kodiak (or Cadiak, as it is called by Lisiansky) is very mountainous and sur-
rounded by deep bays, into which a number of small rivers full. The country is
in general too elevated for settlement, and is, besides, for the greater port of
the yeor, covered with snow. The climate is by no means agreeable ; the au
is seldom clear, and even in summer there are few days which may be called
warm. The weather, indeed, depends entirely on the winds ; so long as they
continue to blow from the North, the West, or the South quarters, it is fine ;
when from other points of the compass, fogs, damps, and rnin are sure to pre-
vail. The winters very much resemble what is felt in Ilussia in a bad autumn,
which is, however, not without exceptions.

The native animals arc few, consisting of bears, fo.\cs, ermines, &c. Birds
are much more numerous, both in numbers and variety. Kodiak also abounds
in fish, such as halibut, cod, flounders, &c., and salmon, which last come into
the rivers, from May to October, in great abundance. The marine animals
were formerly much more numerous, but from the indiscriminate slaughter they
have been much thinned. Of late years, however, owing to the regulations for
preserving them, they have again increased in number. Fur seals were formerly
one of the staple products of the group. But the article for which it is now
best known is ice, which is carefully prepared, for the Californian and other
markets, in the bay of St. ruul.*

The population is small, compared with the size of the islands ; they were
estimated at a total of 4,000 by Lisiansky, in 1805. It was stated that, pre-
vious to the arrival of the Russians, it was more than double this. Chelighoff

• The Ico Company Wfts formed at San Franciaco, nnd they leased from tho Russian-
American Compiiny the privilege of obtaining ico from St. Paul's. This conccsiiion was the
subject of a speciiil clause in tho treaty, and tho place has been fully utilized by tho pro-
prietors for this essential article. Tho ice was cut from an artificial lake, which had an
area of about 40 acres. The labourers wore nil natives of the Aleutian Islands, and were
principally engaged for three or four months of winter, while the ice is firm, in cutting it
up and storing it for sunimer consumption. From here it was exported to every part of th?
I'aciflc, but cJiiefly to San FrancisQO,

! *!'

056

THE COAST OF ALASKA.

■II

III! '
I lit I

stated that he subjected 50,000 men to the crown of Russu which is monifestly
an exaggeration. They arc a family of the Aleutians, resembling, in many
respectd, the Southern Esquimaux. They arc generally kind and well disposed,
and not entirely wanting in industry. By the introduction of schools aud
churches among them, the Russians have done much toward reducing them to
a state of civili7.ation.*

XODIAK, as before stated, is high, hilly, and very much intersected. Its
greatest length is about 85 miles in a N. by E. i E. and S. by W. i W. direc-
tion, and its average breadth may be assumed as 45 miles. The shore, on all
sides of the island, is indented with a great number of large and deep bnys,
which contain excellent harbours. That of Chiuiatskoy is the largest, and at
the same time the most important ; for it is in the bottom of this buy that the
establishment of the Itussian-Amcrican Comp.iny, formerly the principal in tho
Pacific Ocean, was founded. This is the town and harbour of St. Paul. It is,
therefore, the only port frequented by strangers, and wc shall be more particular
in its description.

GHINIATSKOT BAT is formed by Cape Greville or Chiniatskoy on the
South, and Tiong or Barren (Sterile) Island on the North, an opening of about
7 miles in a N.W. ^ N. and S.E. ^ S. direction. It is C miles deep, and its
S.W. portion is filled with rocks. On its North side arc several islands, which
shelter the harbour of St. Paul.

The frequent and lasting fogs which occur here would render the approach
to this bay very difficult, if it were not for the island named Ougak, lying about
10 miles S. by E. ^ E. of Cupc Greville, and 2^ miles from the land. This being
the only island on the East coast to the southward of the bay, it becomes an
infallible point of recognizance on approaching it.

The HABBOTJB of ST. PAUL.— The West side of the harbour is broken
by rocky bluffs, stretching from White Spruce Cape, which lies on the West
side of the northern entrance, to the head of Women Bo'j, a distance of nearly
12 miles. The town of St. Pau^ is 3^ miles from the cape, and 2 miles within
the cape is a small cove, Chagavka, the West point of which, according to the
U.S. survey of 1867, is in lat. 57° 47' 57" N., long. 152° 19' 34" W.

The harbour of St. Paul is excellent in every respect ; the depth 5, 6, and 7
fathoms, good holding ground. Properly speaking, it is a narrow channel,
formed by Froche or Near Island, which will hold but few vessels at a time.
The channel abreast the town is not over 250 yards wide, and has some moor-
ing buoys in it. The length of this narrow part is nearly a mile. At the town

* Many particalars of the group, in addition to those contninod in the accounts of the
Euasian discovery by Dr. Coxo, and Pulh», will be found in Lisiansky's Voyage, chapter x.,
p. 190 et teq.; Billing's Voyage, by Martin Sauer; Langsdorflrs Travels; Cook's Third
Voyage, vol. iii. ; and Vuncouvtr's Voyage, vol. iii. These will give a good idon of the
condition and reMurces of this inhospitable country. See, also, the note on pp. 664-6,

KODIAK— HARBOUR OF ST. PAUL.

fi57

there arc about 100 log houses, with a Orcck church. It in high water here,
on full and change, at ll** 47" ; the mean rise and fall is 12 ft.

The West shore of Wooded Island is five-eighths of a mile distant from the
shore, forming the outer anchorage, which is equally well sheltered and secure.
Vessels can anchor ofiP Chagavka Cove in 15 fathoms. To the southward of St.
Paul another anchorage is formed by Near Island and other islands, with from
4 to 10 fathoms, but this is not often used, as the southern approach to it from
the bay is contracted by rocks.

Wooded Island is auout 2} miles long N.N.W. and S.S.E., undulating, and
partially wooded, rising to an elevation of about 250 ft. The shores arc bold
and rocky, but extensive reefs project off the North and South ends. On the
W^est point are the Ice Company's works and a wharf. Abreast this point the
counter-currents are said to run 6 miles an hour. Lotiff or Bare Island, 1 mile
to the eastward, is nearly 4 miles long N.N.E. and S.S.W., with extensive reefs
off its North and South points. On its West side, 1 mile within the N.W. point,
is the opening to a landlocked harbour, with from 3 to 10 fathoms in it.

The port of St. Paul has two entrances ; one from the South, by the Bay of
Chiniatskoy ; the other, from the North, passes through the outer road. Neither
is dangerous if the wind be favourable, and the weather sufficiently clear to
distinguish the shores around the port ; but it should not be approached during
the night or in fog, for there are no lights, and the currents may carry you
easily on to the shoals and rocks, which are abundant on all sides.

Both channels have dangers in their approaches. Williams or Vaailief Reef,
a sunken breaking ledge, lies about 3^ miles North of the North end of Long
Island, and m'dway between it and another reef, three-quarters of a mile off
the point, is Kadiak Rock, a sharp pinnacle, with only 10 ft. water on it. A
breaker bears about N.N.E., 2^ miles from the East end of the island.

There are also several dangers off Outer Spruce Cape. Capt. Niebaum, of
the Alaska Commercial Company, states that a breaker lies a quarter of a mile
West of Round Lumpy Bock, or the Twins ; also that a rock, awash at low
water, and marked by kelp, lies half a mile N.E. by E. ^ E. from the Twins,
and is named St. George Rock, from a schooner of that name being lost on it
in the spring of 1881. Hutchinson Reef, stated to have 9 or 10 ft. least water
over it, lies about a mile N.E. of Outer Spruce Cape, and extends Iialf a mile
farther in the same direction.

These and other known dangers may be avoided, in entering by the North
channel, by not bringing the N.E. end of Near Island to bear anything south-
ward of S.W. by S. i S.

In the South approach to the harbour lies Humpback or Sugarloaf Rock,
18 ft. high, 3 miles S.E. f E. from the South point of Long Island, with 10
and 20 fathoms close around it. Sunken rocks also lie off the South entrance
of the channel between Wooded and Long Islands.

North Pacijic. 4 i*

" m ' ^

658

THE COAST OF ALASKA.

_ III

I ■ .1.

i :,

\ :■!

A course W. i N. from Humpback Rook, for nearly 41 milcd, leads nearly a
mile Bonthward of the latter dangers, and when the South point of Wooded
Island bears N. by E., distant l^ mile, a course about N. by VV. will lead
through in mid-channel between Wooded Island and the islands and dangers
eastward of Near Island, into St. Paul outer roadstead.

A course N. by E. from Humpback Rock leads outside the dangers off Long
Island, including the breaker lying about 2^ miles N.N.E. of the East end of
the latter.

'i"he following are Capt. Oolownin's directions.

As soon as you have cleared Cape Chiniatskoy, you find before you a rock,
called Gorbun ; steer N. W. J W. or N. IV. J W., true, and you will soon see
ahead a small high island, Toporkowa, upon which you must be careful to
direct your course. This island will show you the direction of the current ;
steer right upon it, leaving to starboard Barren Island, and then the channel
which separates it from another, called tFoodt/ Island. When abreast of the
South point of the latter, which may be readily known by the rocks surround-
ing it, bear to the North, ranging along the western shore of Woody Isle aa
near as possible, paying attention to the soundings, which diminish regularly
on either side up to the entrance of the port. Following these directions, if
the wind be not contrary, and carrying short sail, you may pass, without a
pilot, the shoals on the western side near two isles, and reach the entrance of
the port.

If, after passing along the West coast of Woody Isle, the wind or other ob-
stacles prevent an advance, you may anchor in perfect security until the
weather becomes more favourable. In case a vessel may have entered the bay,
and the wind will not allow her to follow the foregoing route, and it is abso-
lutely necessary that she should reach the port, she will find a good shelter
very near Steep Cape, on the western side of the bay. In this case, after near-
ing Gorbun Rock, run directly for this cape, or to W. } N., until a remarkable
jutting point bears W.N.W. ; it is readily distinguished on this low coast by
its elevation, uud its peaked form. As soon as Steep Cape is passed, change the
course towards the starboard, to anchor under Toporkowa Island, from whence
you may readily reach the harbour, either under sail, or by towing.

To enter the harbour of St. Paul by the northern passage, steer for Capo
Pine ; then, being near to this cape, which ought to bear about N.W.,
distant a mile or half a mile, run into the middle of the channel between Kodiak
and Woody Isle, carefully observing not to go into less than 18 or 20 fathoms
depth, steering directly for the islands before mentioned, to the West of Woody
Isle, until the town of St. Paul is seen ; you may then enter the port itself, or
rather anchor in the outer road. The best anchorage is under "Woody Isle, in
13, 14, or 15 fathoms, sand. Nearer the port the bottom is of mud, but here
you are not so well sheltered as under Woody Isle.

If you wish to enter the port under sail, you must take care of the contrary

THE KODIAK AROlIlPELAaO.

659

current, or have good cables ; the breadth of the harbour not allowing you to
bear up, you must drop anchor when under way. In the aummcr it would bo
better to anchor in the road, mooring in the direction if the tides, the flood
running to N.E., and the ebb to S.W. The starbu.tia anchor ought to be laid
towards S.W., and the port anchor N.E., having an open hawse for N.W. and
West winds, which blow strongly and in gusts. The tides change regularly
every six hours.

Igatskoy or Ighakchi Bay. — To the South of Cape Qreville, or Tolstoy
(great), is Cape Tonkoy (small) of the Russian charts. It forms the N.E. point
of Ijfatskoy, Igakchif or Ihuk Bay, a deep inlet of 16 miles to the West, but
only 2^ miles in breadth. There are some good harbours in it, esjiecially one
lying in the S.W. part. In the bay the Russian-American Company had an
establishment. In entering, keep close to the South shore ; the North is be-
strewed with rocks.

At 1 2 miles to the S.W. from Igatskoy Bay is Kiloudenskoy or Kiludtn Bay,
where the Company also had an establishment. It is properly composed of two
bays, either of which affords shelter.

In the S.E. part of Kodiak, to the S.W. of the last-named bay, lies Salt-
chidak or Siachladak Island, which is nearly 20 miles broad S.S.W. and N.N.E.
Cape Barnabas of Cook is the N.E. point of this island.

Two-headed Point is on a small island, 8 miles S.W. } S. from the S.W.
point of Saltchidak Island, and is the northernmost of four isles that must be
doubled before entering the Port of the Epiphany. Epiphany Bay is small,
only a mile in circumference, and 60 yards in the opening. The depth is 10,
8, 7, and 4^ fathoms, muddy bottom.

The southern point of Kodiak was called by Cook Cape Trinity. At 11^
miles to S. by W. of Cape Trinity lie three islands, named by Cook Trinity
hies; they are so close together that they might almost be considered as ono
inland ; together they are about 30 miles in length, N.E. and S.W. On the
KuBsian charts the eastern is called Sitchunak ; the western, and largest,
I'uyidak.

The western shore of Kodiak is but little known. To the westward of Cape
Trinity is Alitok Bay, where the Company had an establishment. The western-
most point of Kodiak, Cape Ykolik, in 57" 14' N., lies N.W. J W., 38 miles,
from Cape Trinity ; and at 18 miles N.N.E. of it was the Company's establish-
ment, named Karlouk. It is from here that the ba'idares destined for the oppo-
site shore departed, the strait of Chelighoff being narrowest here.

At 12 miles to the N.N.E. of Karluk is Oouj'ak or Ohiak Bay, a deep in.
dentation, extending 27 miles in a S.E. by E. direction, the distance between
its head and that of Kiludenskoy Bay, on the opposite side of Kodiak, being unly
8 miles.

The N.W. point of Kodiuk is in about lot. S7° 28', and 2 miles from this

THE COAST OF ALASKA.

point lies the extreme of North Island, which extendi 15 milci Eoat and West.
This is separated by a narrow channel from Afognak Isle.

The northern coast of Kodiak, North Island, and the South part of Afognak,
form n channel 20 miles long and 2 miles wide, in which 10 to 20 fathoms
water is found.

About 4 miles off Cape Whitsunday, at the East end of Afognak, is an
island 8 miles in length, named by Bchring Capt St. Hermogenea. The
Russians named it Evratschey, the name of a small fur-bearing animal, rery
abundant there.

Chfllighoff or Chelekhoff Strait.— Cook called the North entrance of Che-
lighoff Strait Smoky Bay. It separates Kodiak from the continent North of
the peninsula of Aliaska, and derives its name from the Bussian commander
who first brought the inhabitants of the adjoining countries under subjection.

In 1 832 it was examined and surveyed by Mr. Wassilieff, an officer of the
Russian navy, in the service of the Bussian-American Company. This showed
that the strait is narrower than was at first supposed ; it does not exceed 25 or
30 miles.

Cape DoTiglaa, which has been before described, is the N.W. limit of the
strait. A great number of bays appear to afford good shelter ; that called
Poualo or Cold, in lat. 57° 46', long. 155° 30' W., is 5 miles distant from the
great lake Nanouantoughat, from which the River Oxtgagouk flows to the
North coast. This river has been adopted by Kruscnstern as the northern
limit of the peninsula of Aliaska.

The coast of the peninsula beyond this is described in the next Chapter,
with those of the Sea of Bchring which it encloses.

( «6» )

▼cry

CHAPTER IX.

THE ALEUTIAN ISLANDS, AND BEIIKINO SEA.

TiiR extensive and inclement aca, whoso eastern shores and islands are descri'ued
in the present Chapter, derives its name from the celebrated navigator who first
sailed in it, and made known to Europe the real character of the extremities uf
the New and Old Worlds.

The appellation of the Sea of Behring* was first and justly applied to it by
Capt. Oolownin. This replaced those by which it had been improperly desig.
nated, such as 'ho Sea of Otters (BobrovoiS), the Sea of Kamchatka, of Aliaska,
or the Aleutinu Sea.

The Oovcmment of the United States may do something to dcvclopc its
resources, wh ch ha(T previously been confined to a few fur-trading posts of tho
Russian-American Company, and therefore there has been but little induce^
ment for a more minute examination of its shores than that given in the im-
perfect charts drawn up by Liitke and others. But the United States' whalo
fishery in this sea, as presently mentioned, has afforded, in former years, a most
lucrative occupation for a large fleet. A brief account of the progress of our
knowledge of this distant region will alto show the degree of authenticity our
descriptions may claim.

The Russian Czar, Peter the Great, to whom the possession of the haU of a
great continent still seemed not sufficient, drew up with his own hand, sh jrtly
before his death, the instructions for a voyage whose object was to ascertain
whether Asia was separated from America by a strait, and then to extend the
Russian dominion beyond such a limit, should nature have thus marked it.

But in these distant regions of this vast empire there were no means by which
such an exploratory voyage could be organized. They were therefore sent from
Russia. Vitus Behring and Alexoi Tschirikoff were chosen by the Empress
Catherine to execute this part of the will of her great partner and predecessor

• In tho Report on the Seal IslHnds of Alnska, 1881, by Mr. U. W. Elliott, pp. 151-2,
tho author shows that tho correct way of rendering the famous Russian navigator's name
into English ia Bering. I'or the pro«ont, however, we hiivo retained tho spelling now in
general use.

r.fi'2

THE ALEUTIAN ISLANDS. AM) HEIIRINO SEA.

f 1

'1.

in *'"wcr. The two ships dostiiird for this expedition were constructed at
Kiunchntka, the first of tlicir kind that had been seen in this tho extremity of
n land then scarcely known. They did not set suit from the I'loulh of tlio
Kamchatka Iliver until July 2Uth, 1728, and liehrinj; shaped his course to tho
N.E., never losing sight of tlie Asiatic const. On AuguMt lulh he reached hit.
67'' IH' N., at a point (now Cape Serdze Kamen) where the coast turned to tho
westward, from which he returned to the port whence he sailed, without having
seen the American coast. He had thus entered the Icy Ocean without know-
ing it ; ho had solved the great problem, and posterity has imposed thu name
of Hehring upon this strait ; the reality sapplyin;^ tho place of the fabulous
Strait of Anian.

Boltring and TschirikofT made a second voyage in 1 7'Ji), hut it yielded no new
information.

A third time did the same commanders set sail from Kamchatka, Juno 4th,
17-11 ; this time with the intention of making the American continent to tho
eastward. liehring then sailed through the chain of islands skirting the great
peninsula of Alinska. On August 2Uth ho anchored at the Schumagiu Islands,
aad in tho course of the next month he diseovored part of the Aleutian Islands,
liy this time the commander was ill and decaying. Tito greater part of the
crew, too, were attacked by that frightful disease, scurvy.

Behring's shijjs and crew were reduced Co the greatest distress by the weather
and sufierings they encountered. Worn out with tliese, they made for the
ihland now bearing his name ; but the ship was stranded. On November Uth
the Captain himself was brought on shore on a hand-barrow, and died on Decem-
ber 8th, 1741. " He was a Dane by birth, and hud in his youth made voyages
to the East and West Indies, when tho glorious example of the innnoriul Em-
peror IVter the Great for marine teniptod him to seek his fortune in Hussia.
It is a pity that it was his fate to end his life in such an unfortunate maniter.
He may be said to have been buried half alive, for the sand rolling down o<>ca-
sionally from the side of the ditch in which he lay, and covering his feet, ho
at last would not sullor it to be removed, and said that he felt some warmth
from it, which otherwise he should want in tho remaining parts of his body,
and thus the sand increased to his belly ; so that, after his ileeease, they were
obliged to scrape him out of the ground, in order to inter him in a proper
numner." — Muller.

TschirikotF's voyage was less unfortunate than his commander's ; but he had
scarcely fewer hardships. He returned to liussiu, after having explored part
of the American coast.

Such 'as the success of the first Russian expeditions. They were followed at
intervals by many others, among which the names of GL'totf, Synd, Krenit/in,
and Levaeheir, stand most conspicuous.

Our great navigator, James Co;'', ^, stored tho Icy Ocean, and ascertained
the exact nature of the continental (-eparation iirsi traversed by Bchring iu

TIIK ALEUTIAN ISLANDS. AND HKIIUINn SEA.

f)('.;»

August, 177R; and liis second in command, Cnpt. Clorkc, after ais sad catttM-
trophc at Hawaii, af^ain poiiotratcd to the icy barrier in July, 1771). Tlio abor-
tive Huseiiun expedition, under Commodore Joseph Hillin^a, nn K'n(;liNbtnan,
made by order of llie Em prosH Catherine IL, in 1785 to 17i)t,did not penetrate
the strait, one great object of the cxpeditf'":, after having traversed the Sea of
Itehring. In 1H17 Capt. Otto von Kot/.ebue examined uud named most of the
points on the American coast of Hehring Straits.

The Asiatic coast, frimi East Cape to Kamchatka, is amply described from the
admirable survey and examinations of Hear- Admiral Frederic Liitke. In IH'iO
the Kussian corvettes, the Moller, Capt. Stanikowiteh, 'ir.l the Stninvine, inider
Capt. Liitke, were despatched to these seas, and exu'.iined almost tiie whole of
the western shores, and to the account of this voya(;e we owe our descriptions.

To our own country wo are principally indebted for the accurate knowledge
wc possess of the American shores. This is from the memorable voyage of
11. M.S. Blottom, under Admiral F. W. Ueechey, who minutely surveyed the
eastern shores of the strait in 1 8'2G-7.

Tlic vessels employed in the Arctic searching expeditions in lH'ir>-.')4, in
quest of intelligence of the party under Sir John Erauklin, added something to
our knowledge of the Aleutian Islands und the northern harbours. 11. M.S.
Herald, under Captain (afterwards Admiral) Kellett, the I'lover, under (^om-
nuinder Moore, and the ex])edition in the Knterpriae and Inveilvjator, under
Captain (afterwards Admiral) CoUinson, in 1850, with others, may bo specially
noticed, liut the account of the progress of these noble ctforts belongs to
other subjects.

One of the latest expeditions to this remote land is probably the most won-
derful of all in its orijiin, Hefure the solution of the great problem solved by
the successful laying of the Atlantic Electric Telegraph Cable, in the summer
of I8f)7, the importance of leiegraphio conununication between America and
I'lurope, led to the project started by Mr. 1'. 1). Collins, of an overland con-
nection from San l''nincisc(i, actuss Hehring Strait, and thence through the
U\is8ian I<im))ire to Western Europe. In 18()5 the Western Union 'IVlegraph
Company of America, the largest corporation of its kind in existence, ooin-
meuced the explorations of the proposed line, which was to go from the Eraser
Hiver to the upper course of tho Yukon llivcr, thence down its course to
Norton Hay; thence ocross to tho Asiatic shore, down which it was to be
curried to tha mouth of the An\oor Hiver, to which the Itussian flovernment
have contplctcd their telegraph syntcm. This gigantic undertaking was placed
uiuler tho command of ('olonel Uulklcy, U.S. Army, and employed several hun-
dred explorers for nearly '1\ years, who examined (),()0() miles of country on
both sides of the I'aeiric, and (Minstrueted a large portion of the liuo. When
the intelligence reached the parties of tho success of tho Atlantic cable, this
grand enterprise was at once abandomd, after an expenditure of three millions
sterling. The narrative of Mr. Kredk. Whymjicr, who was attached to tho

V^"

'l-'lN

604

THE ALEUTIAN ISLANDS, AND BEHRING SEA.

I' I

! I

Yukon party, is one of the most interesting works on the Pacific, and has been
before qr'oted in this work.*

'Ibe whah Jishery, as before stated, is a very important feature of these
Arctic Seas. All the early voyagers speak of the vast abundance of fish of all
varieties, and specially of the whale. But it does not appear that this fact was
much utilized till California came in the ascendant, when Capt. Boys, in his
ship Superior, penetrated the Arctic Ocean through Behring Strait, in the
summer of 1848. In that and the following two years three hundred whale
ships came here, and brought home oil and whalebone worth nearly 17^
millions of dollars. Such a vast result could not be obtained for a series of
years, but still the fisheries of cod, halibut, salmon, as well as of the whale, are
of the greatest value.

The Aleutians are very distinct from all the other Indians of the N.W.,
and many of them bear a close resemblance to the less marked of the Japanese,
so much 80 that the question at once arises whether this people has not been
directly derived from shipwrecked inhabitants of Japan. They are a cuiet,
patient people, gifted wi';h a great deal of ingenuity, and always trusted im-
plicitly by the Russians. — Mr. G. Davidson, 18o7.

Not a single tree has yet been seen on any of the islands of the chain AVest
of Kodiak, except a few spruces brought from Sitka and planted at Ounalaska
by the Russians about 50 years ago, and they have made scarce any appreciable
giowth since they were planted. Wherever cattle have been introduced they
have prospered and grown fat on the abundance of rich nutiitious pasturage.
Grain, such as rye, barley, and oats, seldom or never mature, but potatoes,
turnips, cabbages, beet, Sec, thrive wherever th^ g: ound is thoroughly drained
and has a southerly exposure. — Cruise of the drwin, p. 48.

It may be premised that the geographical descriptions are imperfect, and
cannot be trusted in the same degree as those which precede this, but this is
of the less importance, as these seas are rarely traversed except by those who
are more or less intimate with its navigatir n.

Of late years more attention has been devoted tc Alaska, and several cx-
jilorers have added considerably to our knowledge. Among others, the autho-
rities mentioned below have been consulted in preparing the information here
given.f

• " Travel and Adventure in the Territory of Alaska, &c.," by Frederick Whympcr,
London, 1868.

f A full account of the explorations by the U.S. surveyors, Mr. O. Davidson and Mr.
W. n. Dall, will be found in the U.S. Coast Survey Reports, 1867, pp. 187—329: 1872,
pp. 177—212: 1873, pp. 111—122: 1880, p. 297, &c. In the "Deutsche Oeographische
Blatter," Bremen, Heft i., Jahrgang ii., 1878, pp. 38 — 43, and 84— 101, is a valuable article
by Mr. W. H. Dall, entitled, "Neuere Forschungen auf den Aleiiten." There is Bl^o a
vtjry interesting account by M. A. L. Pinart, a French traveller, of a coasting voyage from

las been

of these
sh of all
fact was
3, in his
in the

TIIK PENINSULA OP ALTAbKA.

665

The PENINSULA of ALIA8KA, separating Behring Sea from the Pacific,
is a remarkable tongue of land extending from the River Ougagouk, mentioned
on page 660, to the Strait of Isanotsky, or Issannakh, separating it from
Ounimak, the easternmost of the Aleutian Archipelago, an extent of 330 miles ;
its breadth diminishing from 90 miles in the North to 25 miles in the southern
parts. Its name (signifying "the land ") has been applied by the Americans
to the whole of their new territory.

From its configuration it may be regarded as a continuation of the Aleutian
Islands. The first authentic notice of its shores was that given in the account
of the third and disastrous voyage of Captain Cook, who examined, though but
very slightly, both sides of the peninsula at different points. The southern side
remained in the same imperfect state unt.il the examination, previously noticed,
by Capt. Wassilieff, in 1832. Its northern side, of which we shall speak here-
after, is somewhat better known.

From the Bay of Poualo, the north-eastern limit of the peninsula noticed
above, Capt. Wassilieff's examination extended to a large bay in lat. 56"^ 40',
and abreast of Evdokeeff Islands. This bay has been named Wassilieff Bay.
The space between Poualo Bay and this point contains a great number of bays,
and all along the coast are numerous islands, of which we have no especial
description.

Evdokeeff Islanda were discovered by Behring on August 4th, 1741, and
named by him in honour of the saint of the day. They form a group of seven
islands, the three largest of which were called Simidin, Alexinoy, and Ageach,
Capt. Golownin determined the position of the southernmost island of the group
as lat. 56° 0' N., long. 156" 22' W.

A rock is marked on the charts to the S.W. ^ S. of the outer island, in lat.
55° 45'; evidently a different position to those recorded by Cook as having been
seen June 16, 1778, a cluster of small islets, or rocks, lying about 9 leagues
from the const, which would be in about lat. 66" 3', long. 158° 0' W. They are
now named Lighthouse Reefs.

St. Stephen Island, of small extent, is supposed to have been discovered and
thus named by Behring. Krusenstern places it in lat. 56° ION., long. 155'' 30'.
There is some confusion here respecting the discoveries of Behring, Tscbirikoff,
and Cook.

Onkamok, or Tschirikoff Island, was probably discovered by Vancouver,
April 4th, 1794, and named by him after the companion of Behring. It ap-
peared to form a somewhat irregular, four- sided figure, about 30 miles in circuit,

Ounalaaka to Kadiak, in tho " Bulletin de la Societe de G^og^phie," Paris, December,
1873. See, also, "The Arctic Cruise of the Revenue steamer Corwin, in 1881;" U.S.
GoTemment Printing Office, Washington, 1883 ; containing observutions on Glacintion,
Natural History, *o.

North Pacific. 4 «

•i

I 'I i'!^

"'4

666

THE PENINSULA OF ALIASKA.

i ,."

1 :r-

having from its western part, which is low and flat, and which had the appear-
ance of being insular, a remarkably high, flat, square rock, lying in a S.W.
direction, at the distance of 3 miles, between which and the island is a ledge
of smaller rocks. Its S.E. parts consist of high, steep clifls, which were covered
with snow ; but on its western side, which is considerably lower, this appear-
ance was not so general.

Of this par<^ oi the coast of the peninsula, as before stated, our knowledge is
very scanty. Capt. Cook, who is almost the only navigator who tells us any-
thing about it, says : — " For some distance to the S.W. (of Foggy Cape) this
country is more broken or rugged than any part we bad yet seen, both with
respect to the hills themselves, and to the coast, which seemed full of creeks,
or small iniet8, none of which appeared to be of any great depth. Perhaps,
upon a closer examination, some of the projecting points between these inlets
will be found to be islands. Every part had a very barren aspect, and was
covered with snow from the summits of the hills down to a very small distance
from the sea coast."

SCHTTUAOIN ISLANDS.— This group, which is the next considerable col-
lection westward of the EvdokeefiP group, according to Captain Liitke, is com-
posed of fifteen islands, and seven smaller islets, among which are several
small harbours. They received the name of Schumagin (Choumaguine) from
Behring, in memory of one of his sailors who was buried here. The two
largest islands of the group are Ounga and Nagay. The first extends about
18 miles S.E. by E. and N.W. by W., with an irregular breadth ; its northern
extremity is in lat. 5-5° 22'. Nagay Island, with a N. J E. and S. J W. direc-
tion, is about 28 miles in length. Besides these islands. Admiral Sarytscheff
names those of Kagai, SajouKucktusigh, Nuinah, Tagh-Kiniagh, and Kiuniu-
tanany ; all these, and several others not named, lie very close together.
Kagay Island, according to Sarytscheff, ought to be placed in lat. 55° 5' N.,
long. 160° 33' W.

The state of our knowle'lge respecting this group may be summed up in a
few words : it is very inperfect and unsatisfactory. There is no apparent
analogy between the re^narks of any two observers. Under these circumstances
we shall confine our extracts chiefly to that of Ounga Island, on account of the
fact of coal existing on it.*

Ounga is the largest of all, and the westernmost of the group. According
to the observations of Stipanoff, of the Russian Company, its South part is in
lat. 55' ir. This island is mountainous and clifly, particularly on its South
coast, but the N.W. side extends in a plain, which terminates in the low cape
called Tonkoi. The island has throe bays ; the largest, Zakharovskaia, is on

* This group WAS visited by the U.S. schooner SumboUl, in 1872, and the notes made
by Mr. W. H. Dall, will be found in the IT. S. Coast Survey Report, 1872, pp. 192—200.
They are too voluminous to insert here.

SCHUMAGIN ISLANDS.

667

5' N.,

tlir N.E. side ; it i^ open to the N.E., but the anchorages may be kept; here
the vessels of the Company formerly wintered. The second, on the East side,
penetrates considerably into the land, but it has very little water. On this
bay stands a village, called by the Russians Delarovikoi, and by the Aleutes,
Ougnagak. The third is on the South coast.

At the entrance of Delarovskoi Bay M. Pinart visited a curious sepulchral
cavern, called Atnanh, containing the remains and numerous interesting relics
of the ancient Aleutian inhabitants.

On the West side of Zakharovskaia fiay, or Coal Harbour, there are, in two
places, some beds of coal, arranged in perfectly horizontal strata, at 100 yards
above the level of the sea. They have been worked.*

Between Ounga and Popoff Island, to the eastward, is a strait varying from
half a mile to 2 miles wide. There are several indentations on the eastern
shore of PopofF Island, the most northern of which is Humboldt Harbaur,
which has been entered by several fishermen, who report fair holding ground
and protection, with 7 fathoms water. Excellent water and plenty of drift-
wood may be obtained here. The U.S. schooner Ilitmboldl anchored here.

Simeonoff' Island, the easternmost of the group, is composed of two clusters
of hills, and the whole of its shores bristle with reefs and shoals, extending
several miles off. Chernohnir Island, to the S.S.W., resembles Simeonoff in
most respects, but is narrower and longer.

Nearly due West, true, from Ounga, on the coast, is the Belkoffski or
Squirrel settlement, the largest village on this coast.

Between the Schumagin Islands and the western extremity of Alioska, the
coast is bordered with a large number of small islands. Admiral Sarytscheff,
who passed here, says in his journal that eight of them, of which he gives the
names, are larger than the rest.

Nanimak Island, nearly the westernmost, is stated to lie 4 leagues to the
northward of Sanuagh (presently described). To the S.E. of it lie a quantity
of small islets and rocks above water. Animak, or Reindeer Island, lies 6
miles to the northward of Nanimak. To the S.E. and East of this island there
is a group of rocks and islets similar to those projecting to the S.E. from Na-
nimak Island. Lialiuskigh lies to the north-eastward of Animak, at the dis-
tance of 14 miles.

Two islands, without names, lie at the distance of 3 miles from this ; one to
the northwa.d, Jie other to the north-eastward. Kuegdogh lies to the east-
ward, 2 miles off from the fifth island. Kitagotagh lies towards the E.S.E.,
at the distance of 3 miles from the last-named island. Ounatchogh lies 2 miles

• The coal is a lignite of poor quality, and not abiindnnt. The Beams have been worked,
and the produoe used on board the Uussian-American Compitny's steamers, but not to any
great extent. The place was visited by the United titates' Telegraph Ezpedilioa ia 1866,.^
fir. F. Whympir,

^Vi

:»■&

!|■^ '

, -'.'t.B

..VJ

THE PENINSULA OP ALIASKA.

to the north-eastward of the preeedisg ; between thete two last there is a high
and pointed rock.

Cook passed these islands June 20th, 1778, and estimated their distance from
the coast as 7 leagues. Opposite to Ounatchogh Island, on the coast of Aliaska,
is a very lofty volcano, the summit of which fell, in 1786, during an eruption.
It is, perhaps, the same mountain that Cook saw emitting smoke.

Sannak, Sannagh, or Halibut Island^ which is the westernmost of those
on the coast of Aliaska, received its last name from Cook, on account of a great
take of that fish. It is separated from the coast by a channel 12 miles in
breadth, and is surrounded with naked rocks and islets. " This island is 7 or
8 leagues in circuit, and, except the head, the land of it is low and very barren.
There are several small islands near it, all of the same appearance ; but there
seemed to be a passage between them and the main, 2 or 3 leagues broad." —
(Cook). Halibut ^eat^ is a round hill in the centre. About 15 miles east-
ward of these islands is a cod-bank of 38 fathoms.

The STRAIT of ISANOTSKOT, or Ittannakh, separating Aliaska from
the Aleutian Islands, was known to exist prior to 1768. The upper or northern
part of the strait extends for 12 miles N.N.W. and S.S.E. ; its breadth does
not anywhere exceed 4 miles. At its northern extremity, that is, between
Aliaska and the N.E. point of Ounimak (behind which lies Krenitzin Bay)*
the strait is not more than 2 miles broad ; and, moreover, is obstructed by a
large number of banks. The N.W. entrance of this strait i' extremely difficult,
on account of the sand-banks, and the currents which are felt during the ebb
and flood tides. That to the S.E. is very much easier, and the soundings do
not give less than 4^ fathoms ; but we have no authentic particulars of it.

The lower part of the strait, that is, the portion between Ounimak and
Ikatun, or Ikatok Island or Peninsula, is 8 miles long by 4 miles broad. This
breadth, however, is contracted to one half by Kitenamagan Island, lying half
a mile from Ikatun. On the eastern side of the strait is the Tillage of Morjovg.
M. Pinart discovered that Ikatok, marked on the charts as an island off
the East end of Ounimak, is really a peninsula; hia canoes were carried
across the isthmus.

From the North end of the Strait of Isanotskoy, the coast of Aliaska rims
to the north-eastward, in nearly the same direction as the southern coast of
that peninsula. This will be described presently, in connection with the re-
mainder of the coasts of the Sea of Behring. The Aleutian Archipelago, form-
ing, as it were, a broken continuation of the peninsula, will follow,

it '<]

' is a high

^nce from

' Aliaska,

I eruption.

of those
t>f a great
miles in
ad is 7 or
' barren.
Ibut there
broad." —
liles east-

( 669 )

TEE ALEUTIAN ABCHIPELAOO.

It is to the celebrated Bchring, as we have mentioned regarding the Kodiak
Islands, that Pussia owed the discovery of the Aleutian Islands. It was during
his return f.om the coast of America, in 1741, that he discovered several of
them, now known under the names of Semitsch, Kiska, and Amchitka. In
1 745 an enterprising merchant, named Basoff, made a voyage hither in search
of the sea-otters. After this period they were more frequently visited, and
they daily became better known. The geographical positions of the group we
owe principally to the Russian Vice- Admiral Sarytscheff, who accompanied
Capt. Billings in his expedition in 1791-2. To Capt. Cook, too, we owe some
observations on this island, and some others near it. Captains Golownin and
Kotzebue, in the years 1817 and 1818, determined the position of some of their
points. Capt. Liitke has given a long article upon this archipelago, from the
observations of Lieut. Tebenkoff, M. Ingnestriim, and several others, which in
our general ignorance of this archipelago are valuable. Capt. Beechey has
also added slightly to our knowledge of them ; and several other navigators,
hereafter alluded to, have added something to the general stock. Some of our
later sources of information are mentioned in the note on pp. 664-5.

The Aleutian Islands form a chain, which extends nearly E.N.E. from the
Isle of Attou, in long. 172° 30' E., to the peninsula of Aliaska, comprising an
extent of 23" of longitude, and lying between 51° and 55° 15' of N. latitude.

They have been divided into several groups. The ^ estem or Blijnie group
is composed of four islands — Attou, Agattou, Semitsch, and Bouldyr. Another
group is named Kryci or Rat Islands ; a third, the Andreanoff Isles ; and the
eastern group, the Fox Islands, because these animals are only found on the
islands composing that particular group.

The prevalence of fogs, and the rapidity and uncertainty of prevailing tides,
make an approach to any of the passes between the Aleutian Islands hazardous
in the extreme. — Commander De Long, U.S.N. (Voyage of the Jeanne tte, vol.
i., 1883, pp. 87-88).

On all these islands traces of volcanic action are evident. On many of them
there are volcanos in activity, and some, as for example, Ounimak, are subject
to continual volcanic eruptions and shocks. The Fox Islands exceed all others
in height ; the farther we advance to the West the lower they become. The
direction in which almost all the islands of the Fox group lie, lengthwise, is
N.E. by N. to S.W. by S. They are low and narrow to the S.W., and increase
in breadth and elevation to the N.E. But beyond the Island of Amkhitka,
where the general direction of the chain runs to the West, this law alters, and
the S.E. extremities of the islands are lower and narrower, and their N.W,
extremities higher and broader.

The following description commences with the easternmost of the Aj-cbip«*
lagO) and proceeds westward in succession.

670 THE ALEUTIAN AUCI1H'£1AG0.

FOX ISLANDS.

This group, extending from Ounimrk to Amoukta, is the most important of
the Archipelago, oommerciallj, on account of the produce of the chase which
is annually drawn from them ; and, geographically, from their central situation,
and the ports they contain.

OUNIMAK, or Unimak, is the easternmost of the group, and is separated
from the peninsula of Aliaska by the Strait of Isanotskoy. In a harbour in
this strait Krenitzin wintered in 1768. In 1826 Capt. Beechey passed through
the strait separating it from the islands to the southward. He calls its South
point Wtdge-thaped Cape, before which lies c rock, and the narrowest part of
the strait is formed by the Isle Kougalga, Beechey making the distance 9|
miles.

The southernmost point of Ounimak is called Cape Hilsou, or Kithouk, or
Khitkhoukh ; and, from its shape, by Captain Beechey, Wedge-shnped Cape.
From this southern cape the coast runs to the N.E. to Cape Lutke. The S.W.
point of the island is Cape Sarytscheff; before it is a large rock similarly
situated with respect to it as that of the southern cape.

The island is about 65 miles long in a N.E. by N. J N. and S.W. by S. f S.
direction, and its greatest breadtt about 25 miles. It is, so to speuk, but the
cover to a furnace, continually burning ; on the summit of this a high moun-
tain chain extends throughout the island, having several burning spiracles.
Notwithstanding the number of craters, the subterranean fire causes frequent
earthquakes. The highest of these summits, the Chichaldinskoi Volcano, or
Mount Shithaldin, reaches to a height of 8,683 ft. It is a regular cone ; and
to the eastward of it is another, with a double summit. It stands nearly in the
centre of the island, in about 54° 45' and 163° 59'. Mr. Whymper says: —
" Chichaldinskoi has a very graceful form. Near it is a second mountain of
less elevation, with a jagged double summit, of very odd and irregular appear-
ance. Smoke was issuing (September, 1865,) from a large cleft near the
summit." At 6 miles from the S.W. side is another equally conical volcano,
called Pogrommoi, or Nosovskoi, which Kotzebue says is 5,525 English feet in
height. The Itaannakh Chain has also two high peaks towards the N.E. ex-
tremity of the island. The whole of the mountain chains are nearer the South
than the North side.

A broad bed of gravel forms the N.E. extremity of the island, and a low
eoast extends as far as the village of Chichaldinskoi without any shelter. The
village is two-thirds the distance from the N.E. extremity to a cape 3^^ miles
eastward of Cape Mordvinoff. The N.W. extremity, Cape Mordvinoff(Ca/70
Noisak), is in lat. 54° 51', long. 164° 29'. From Cape Chichkoff, which is
bluff and very remarkable, because the land on each side uf it is very low, to
the West extremity of the island, Cape Sarytscheff, the coast forms the base of

FOX ISLANDS.

671

rtant of
e which
ituation,

the Pogrommoi Volcano. The latter cape is bluff, and of a moderate height.
At 7 or 8 milea from it, on the summit of the coast, is the village of Pogrom-
moi, off which there is a boat-lnnding. At 4 or 5 miles E.S.E. of Cape Saryts-
cheff is the small village of Nosovskot, where there is easy landing, and about
6 miles to the E.S.E. of this is the high steep Capi Khitkhoukh, with a high
pile of stones before it, and which is called Ounga.

Boriok or Onnimak Strait, through which Kotzebue passed in 1817, sepa-
rates Ounimak from the Krenitzin Isles to the southward. Its narrowest part,
as before mentioned, is about 9^ miles broad. The currents are very violent
in it, being variously stated to run at from 3 to 6 knots.

Although Rurick Strait is the widest and safest for traversing the Aleutian
chain from North to South, and vice verad, and also the most convenient for
passing into the northern part of the Sea of Bchring, it is not so advantageous
for ships which, coming from the Pacific, are destined for Ounalashka. Capt.
Wrangel recommends the Strait of Akoutan, farther westward, for this route.

Krenitzin Islands, the islands next in succession to Ounimak, are five in
number. The N.E. of them, called Kougalga, in reality consists of two islands,
Ougamok and Ouektok. There is a peak on the N.E. extreme of Ougamok,
visible a long way off.

Tigalga, Ktgalga, or Tigalda, is the next to the S.W., and is about 10 miles
long, E.N.E. and W.S.W. Its centre is in lat. 64° 5' N., long. 165° 5' W. A
small island, connected by a chain of rocks to Tigalda, lies off its northern ex-
tremity. Tigalda is mountainous, and intersected by three isthmuses. Birds
and sea-animnls frequent this island ; a great quantity of drift-wood is found
on its coast, and coal is found on the shore of Derbinskoi Strait.

Derhinshoi Strait separates Tigalda from Abatanok, and is remarkable among
oil the others for the extraordinary ropidity of the current and its strong tide
races.

Abatanok, or Avalanak, lies S.W. by W. of Tigalda, and is about the same
size, and lies in the same direction. At 2 miles W. by S. J S. of its western
point is the small island of Aektok, or Goly (bare), which is about 3 miles in
circumference, and lies 2 miles southward of the South point of Akoun.

Akoun forms the S.W. portion of Rurick Strait, and lies to the West of the
Krenitzin Islands. It is about 10 miles long, in a N.N.E. and S.S.W. direction ;
its breadth is unequal. There are two small bays on it, one in the N.E. part,
the other in the N.W. part of the island.

The island is mountainous, and particularly cliffy on its N.E. and North
sides. On the South side of the island is a sort of column, which, seen from
the East or West, resembles a tower, or steeple surrounded by houses. On its
N.W. side is a snroking volcano, and near the village on the side of Akounskoi
Strait are some hot springs.

Akotmakoi Strait, separating Akoun from Akoutan, is not more than 2 miles

t vfl

Him

672

THE ALEUTIAN AIICHIPELAQO.

wide, is throughout bestrewed with rooks, and subject to strong currents and
tide races.

Akontan, about a mile W.N.W. of Akoun, is large, mountainous, of a round
form, and having a diameter of 12 or 13 miles. It has no good harbour ; there
are tome coves on the northern coast, but they cannot be serviceable to any
but very small vessels.

With the exception of Ounaloshka, it is higher than the neighbouring islands.
Nearly in the centre is an active volcano, 3,898 ft. high. The coasts are steep,
particularly on the South side ; on the North they slope more gradually and
evenly. Volcanic evidences are everywhere abundant, and the fire from the
crater was seen in September, 1865. Between its S.W. end and Ounolashka
is Ounalga Island.

The ISLAND of OUNALASHKA, which is the largest and the best known
of the Aleutian Archipelago, follows. It extends about tio miles from N.E. by N.
to S.W. by S., with an average width of 15 miles. The S.W. extreme is in
lat. 53° 13' N., long. 167° 47' W. ; and the N.E. part is in lat. 54° 1' N., long.
166° 22' W.

The name here given as generally known to Europeans is a contraction of
Nagounahska. It is the most important of the group, because it was the resi-
dence of the chief of this section of the Eussian Company's hunting opera-
tions. There are about eight villages on the island, together containing about
600 inhabitants.

There are many deep bays on the coasts of Ounalashkr^, which have nearly
all been examined and surveyed by our navigators. The northern shore has the
greatest number, as for example : — Captain Bay, the Bay of Otters, lUuluk
Bay, Kaleghta Bay, and Samganooda Bay, visited by Cook.

ITnalaska or Captain Bay is formed by Capes Kalekhta and Wessiloffshy,
which lie in an E.N.E. and W.S.W. direction, 9 miles apart, and is about 13
miles to its southern part. The upper part of the bay contains three distinct
smaller bays, the eastern, northern, and western bays. Captain Harbour, the
southern bay, has not much to recommend it, and its entrance is scarcely more
than a quarter of a mile broad.

Cape Kalekhta is a rocky precipitous headland, about 1,500 ft. high, having
a peculiar pinnacle rock close off it, named Priest Rock. A rocky ledge ex-
tends about half a mile outside it. Cape Cheerful, the West headland, 8^
miles to W.S.W. of Cape Kalekhta, is high and bold, and is readily recognised
from the northward and eastward by a large cascade. The entire eastern shore
of the bay, nearly to the village, is studded with sunken rocks. Constantine
Bay is the first bay southward of Cape Kalekhta, with a reef clear across the
entrance. The next bay to the South is Letum or Summer Bay, with the
village of Imagnee near its head.

The general direction of the bay is about S.S.W. for 1 1 miles, and about
half-way inside the entrance is divided by a high island, named Amognak or

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FOX ISLANDS- OUNALASIIKA ISLAND.

67.1

Oumahnagh, rising precipitously to a height of 1,800 ft., forming Illuluk ILtr-
hour on its East side. The harbour takes its name from the village where tlie
Company had an establishment. Kotzebue says that it would be the best har-
bour in the universe if the entrance to it were not so difficult ; for a vessel en-
tering Port Illuluk, if it should fall calm, would remain exposed to the violent
currents and squalls which often occur here. The harbour is SJ miles in depth,
and the soundings in its centre are from 7 to 1 4 fathoms.

From the N.E. point of Amognak a narrow, low, boulder tongue stretches
southward about 1^ mile, forming another fine landlocked harbour, named
Ulakhta Bay, with 15 to 20 fathoms water throughout. It is known to the
Russians as Dutch Bay. The holding ground in the centre is good, in 14 to
16 fathoms over black mud and shells. Near the extremity of the boulder
tongue, which is in lat. 53° 53' 66" N., long. 166" 28' 34" W., is a half-
finished house.

To the East of this spit rocky shoals, covered with kelp, extend some dis-
tance into the eastern road. Between it and the East shore, which is high
and precipitous, is the entrance to Illuluk Harbour, with a depth of 7 to 20
fathoms. This bay is sometimes visited by whalers. The South entrance to
the harbour is very narrow and tortuous, and may be considered unfit for navi-
gation. The land around the harbour abounds in grasses, and cattle grow fat.
Vegetables also grow well.

It is high water here, on full and change, at 7'" 30" ; the highest tide ob-
served was 7i ft.

Igognak Point, on the West side of the entrance to Ounalaska Bay, has
some rocks extending in a curve half a mile in the southward, and behind this
reef is a safe anchorage. About 2 miles West of the point is a bank of 50
fathoms, noted for its cod.

The prevalent winds in winter are S.E., which bring rain and fog ; N.E.
winds bring clear weather ; and North and N.W., snow. The force of the
winds, even in the landlocked harbour of Illuluk, surpasses everything I have
ever experienced elsewhere, especially with westerly or south-easterly winds.
Shocks of earthquake, and other volcanic phenomena, are of almost daily occur-
rence. — Mr. G. Davidson.

Kaleghta Bay, which lies next to the eastward of Illuluk, is open and deep,
and only merits attention on account of a village of the same name which was
situated at its head. The Bay of Otters, or Bobrovaia, adjoins Kaleghta Bay
on the East, and is the largest of those which intersect Ounaloshka, being 18
miles deep in a N.N.E. and S.S.W. direction. Its breadth, as well at the
mouth as the rest of the bay, excepting the North part, is about 4 miles. Both
shores of the bay present a large number of small coves, 2 or 3 miles deep,
which contain good anchorages ; the rivulets which fall from the mountains
afford good water. The western part of the Bay of Otters is formed by a
North Pacific. 4 s

«74

THE ALEUTIAN ARCHIPELAGO.

t| ■ ii

peninsula, the aamo land which forms the eastern side of Captain Ray. At the
extremity of this peninsula is Samganooda Hay, where Cook anchored twice.

Judging from the description given by Cook, this port is preferable to Port
lUuluk. It is 4 miles long, and affords safe anchorage throughout its extent;
the mouth of the bay is a mile in width, and it narrows toward the bottom to a
quarter of a mile, where you may anchor in from 4 to 7 fathoms, on a bottom
of sand and mud, being entirely landlocked. This port has also the advantage
of being nearer the open ocean. Ilcrc there was an establishment of the Russian
American Company.

The Island of Ounalya, or Oonella, lies before Samganooda Ray, as men-
tioned before. Between it and the Island of Akoutan, to the N.K. of it, is the
Strait of Akoutan. Capt. Wrongol recommends this strait to bo preferred for
passing between the islands, because it leads directly to all the ports lying on
the N.E. side of Ounalashka. This strait is 2} miles broad ; but it is some-
what narrowed by a chain of islets. Egg Islets, lying half a mile ofi the N.E.
part of Ounalga. Spirkin Island, which forms the eastern point of the Ray of
Otters, is 10 miles long in a N. ^ E. and S. \ W. direction. Oudagagh Channel,
which separates it from Ounalashka, is about a mile wide, and 3^ miles long,
in a northerly direction. The depth in it is 45 fathoms. At the N.E. end of
Spirkin Island lies the e nail isle Ougalyan, being separated by a cle'j channel
about a mile long.

There are two rocks near the v. ^ coast of Spirkin Island, between which

Cook passed in the night of June 26tu, ''"S. According to Cook the nrst
rock lies 4 miles S. i E. from Ougalgan Isle ; the other at 5 miles directly to
the South of this isle; their distance apart is 1^ league, and the relative bear-
ing N.E. and S.W.

On the eastern side of Ounalashka is the small bry of Killiliak, which is
easily known by a remarkable cape, named Ar;ti:hitka, standing a little to the
North of the entrance to the bay. Ounalosbka here presents the appearance
of being divided into two parts. The baj ic p trfectly sheltered from all winds,
and the depth is about 10 fathoms.

Makouchinskoy Bay lies about the middle of the island, on the western side.
It is 2f miles wide ot its opening, and 11 or 12 miles long in an easterly direc-
tion. Its head approaches that of the Bay of Otters within .3 miles, and within
7 miles of Captain Bay, in such a manner that this portion of Ounalashka forms
a peninsula of 40 miles in circumference, composed of high mountains, among
which a very high volcano is to be distinguished.

OTJMNAK ISLAND, or TJnmak, lies next West to Ounalashka, and, next
to that island, is the largest of the archipelago. The strait which separates
them is 4 miles wide in its southern part ; but this is diminished to one-half by
Tinpinak Island, which lies in mid-channel, and renders the passage difficult
for largt vessels. Outside the strait, at 5 miles to the southward of Tinginak,
is a i^ci, Avhich covers at high wat<Jr.

ri'iTi»iti>irr«i'>

FOX ISLANDS— OUMNAK ISLAND.

675

Oumnak is 65 miles in length, in a N. by E. | E. and S. bj W. ^ W di-
rection. Its height increases from its southern end; and its North end i com-
posed of very high mountains, amn^g which may be distinguished a very high
volcano, covered with eternal snow.

Upon the island are two active volcanos, the first, Vc$vidovik<3i, is nearly in
the centre of the island, and is its highest point, about 8,000 ft. ; the other,
Touliktkoi, is 10 miles from the N.E. side. The S.W. extremity of the island.
Cape Sigak, lies in lat. 62° 60', long. 168° 42'. A short distance from this the
S.E. coast forms some small open bays, one of which is called the Old Port,
and is somewhat sheltered from the South from seaward by a bank. Beyond
this is Black Cape, projecting considerably into the sea, and forming the open
cove called Drovianaia (wood), on account of the great quantity of drift-wood
thrown on to it. Beyond this the coast runs nearly straight, and not very high,
to Vcevidovskaia Cove, op-ju to the South, before which lie the Voevidovskat'a
Islands, mentioned presently. Here the coast is low and sloping, and thus ex-
tends to Gloubokaia (deep) Cove, into which a river discharges itself, abound-
ing with fish. Farther to the N.E., beyond a mass of rocks 90 ft. in height,
inclining to the N.E., is the village Egorkojskoi, in a small creek midway be-
tween Cape Sigak and Oumnak Strait. The neighbourhood of the village affords
great resources. A rude, sandy, and straight coast surrounds this as far as the
village Tou^'kskoi, lying in front of the islet Tanghinakh, in the Strait of
Oumnak. ;ar the S.E. coast there are many reefs and banks.

The eastern face of the island facing Ounalashka is steep and rocky in some
places, but is not high. The North part is high, sandy, and even, frequently
intersected with ravines, but without a single remarkable inlet. The West
coast is mountainous, but not steep. On this side, at 8 miles from the S.W.
extremity, is the largest village of the island, Retchechnoi, standing on a small
hill between some lakes inland and the sea-shore. Before it is a small and safe
harbour for small vessels. Nearly in the middle of the West side of the island
is the large but open bay called Ingakoadak,

On the S.E. side of the island, and in front of the Vcevidovskoi volcano and
the bay of the same name, are situated the small islands called, also, Vcevi-
dovskies. They are six in number, and are 2 miles off the coast, the interval
being full of banks.

Oumnak, like the rest of the islands, is deficient of wood, some willow ond
other bushes only growing on it. It is, next to Ounimak, the most subject to
volcanic eruptions. One feature is an evidence of this : it is the abundance of
hot springs, one of which resembles the Geysers of Iceland.

To the northward of Oumnak it was stated that a long reef stretched for 26
miles in a nearly North, true, direction, at the outer point of which is Ship
Rock, so named by Cook, in the form of a tower. Mr. Dall, however, could not
find this reef.

About half a mile within Ship Rock is the small island of Joann Bogoslofff

'f;-9'

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!;'

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676

THE ALEUTIAN ARCHIPELAGO.

which is of Tolcanic origin, and did not appear till 1796, after an earthquake.
The length of this small island, from N.W. to S.E., is ahout three-quarters of
a mile. A chain of rocks projects 2 m»ies beyond its N.W. extremity, and
another a mile from its N.E. point. The highest part of the island rises to
844 ft.* This island, as before stated, is said to be connected with Oumnak by
a reef of rocks, which doubtless owe their origin to a similar cause ; for, in
1778, Cook, and thirty years later Sai^tscheff, sailed between Ship Rock and
the Island of Oumnak.

To the westward of Oumnak is a group of four — or, according to Liitke,
five — volcanic islands, which bear the name of the Isles of the Four Mouw
tains ; they are all very near to each other. The name of the S.W. isle ia
OuUaga ; of the N.W., Tano; the N.E. is called Tschiganok; and that to the
S.E. Cliagamil. The first and the last are the largest, being 5 or 6 leagues in
circumference. On the U.S. charts the northern island is named Uliaya, the
middle islands Kigalgin and Kagamil, and the southern Chuginadak, the two
latter being the largest.

H.M.S. Amphitrite, Captain Charles Frederick, R.N., passed between the
Four Mountains Isles and Younaska on June 28, 1853. The four islands are
very remarkable, having conical peaks from 3,000 to 4,000 ft. high, and were
then covered with snow fully three-fourths of their height. The channel is 10
or 11 miles wide, and apparently free from danger ; no soundiuf^s at 15 fathoms,
a rippling, but nnt a strong current.

Tounaska. — To the S.W. of these islands is Younaska, which is about 15
miles long, N.E. by N. and S.W. by S. There is a high mountain in the centre
of the island. Tschegoula, or Tchougoul, a small island, lies about 8 miles
W.S.W. of Younaska, and near the N.E. point of Amoughta. It is of a cir-
cular form, and 3 miles in diameter. It seems as if formed of fragments of
rock ready to fall down, and has no landing place. At about a mile from it,
in the direction of Amoughta, is a small isolated rock.

Amoughta, or Amoukhtou, is the westernmost of the chain of the Pox
Islands. It is nearly round, and about 6 miles in diameter. I^s centre is
mountainous, and its summit irregular, the coasts being low, but steep. A

* Admiral EruBonstern adds en account of this phenomenon, 'rem Mr. Baranoff, chief
of the American Company's eBtablighnient : — " In 1806 a new volcano appeared on one of.
tho Aleutian Islands. Thoy then observed, bttweon Ounalaska and Oumnack, to the
North of the hitter, a flame jetting out of tho scii, aud soon after, smoke, which continued
ten consecutive days. After this, a white body, of a round form, was obsorved to rise out
of the water, and increase rapidly in sine. At the end of a month the flame ceased, but the
smoke increased considerably, and the island kept on increasing. In 1814 tho island was
formed by precipices, covered wiih small stonea, which were being continually rjoctod from
the crater. In 1315, a second expedition found the island very much lower than in tho
previous year, auH its appearance entirely chan{;cd. The prcoipicos had fallen, aud vrert
continually crumbling away."

ANDREANOFF ISLANDS.

677

tliort distance from its South end a high column of rock rises ahove the
water.

The Shannels between this group are those generally used by ships either
going or returning from the Sea of Behring. 7.'he Russian Company's vessels
generally preferred that of the Strait of Oimiinak ; but Capt. Wrangel prefers
the Strait of Akoutun, between that inland and Akoim, as being much shorter.
In returning by this strait, with the prevalent S.W. winds, you may run to the
S.E. without being cramped by the coasts.

The Strait of Ounalga should not be used except in case of necessity, on
account of its narrowness, its strong currents, and its terrible tide races, which,
when the wind and waves oppose each other, are sufficient to dismast a vessel.

The Strait of Akontan is considered by Liitke the best to quit by. It is 2
miles broad between Akoutan and the five Tchaitchi (sea-mew) Islands, which
are of an oblong form, distant half a mile from the N.E. point of Ounalga.
Care should be taken of these islands in coming from the southward, as a
mistake might be fatul.

The tide rips, occurring at half tide, in the approaches to Unalaska Harbour,
are only dangerous in severe storms. They are in general met with at the
North entrance of Unalga and Akutan Passes, and are especially violent oflF the
N.W. point of Akutan. Unalgu Pass is preferable for steamers and small
vessels. For large vessels Akutan Pass affords more room. It is a noteworthy
fact that there is never any wind over the tide-rips, however fresh it may be
blowing around them. — Mr. G. Davidson.

ANDREANOFF ISLANDS.

This group extends from Segouam, or Sisouam, to Goreli, or the " Burnt
Island," as Liitke also calls thcf.rdtramed island.

Segoaam, or Goreli, according to the hunters, is the easternmost of the
group. It is intersected by a chain of mountains, divided into three masses,
smoke issuing at times from the central mass. In the N.E. part they rise
perpendicularly from the water. There are no dangers around it.

Amouyhta Channel, to the East of it, is clear, safe, and has similar currents
to the rest. The channel to the West, between it and Amlia, is far from being
as convenient. From the extent of the latter island, and also that of Segouam,
a barrier of nearly 1 00 milet; is opposed to the periodic current passing between
them, and consequently the water rushes violently from either side through the
strait, causing terrible and dangerous races.

Capt. Henry TroUopc, ll.N., passed in II. M.S. Rattlesnake, between Segouam
and Anioukta, August 16, 1853, but without seeing land, lie confirms this
account of the races in the channel, lie says, " I neve, sow such a confused
tumbling sea, with appearance of overfalls, &c. j H wGshetl away one of the
gangways, and broke on board several times."

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678

THE ALEUTIAN ARCHIPELAGO.

Amlia, which succeeds Segouam, to the westward, is long and narrow, and
extends nearly East and West, true ; its length is about 40 miles. The centre
of the island is occupied with a chain of mountains, the greater part of a conical
form, but, compared with the others, of a moderate height. There is no active
volcano on it, and its shores are in general clear. The West cape projects to
the north-westward, and is in about lat. 52° 6^. On the South coast, about a
mile from the West end, is a large open bay, and an Aleutian village. At this
part the island is not more than a verst (two-thirds of an English mile) in
breadth, but it is broader in the middle. The South side forms several bays,
but all are open save one, Svetchnikoff Harbour ; this port is 16 miles from the
East extremity of the island, and penetrates 1 ^ mile to the north-westward, and
is about half a mile broad. It is sheltered from seaward by a small, narrow
island, about three-quarters of a mile in length. North and South, half a mile
southward of the East cape of the port ; this space is full of rocks, so that, to
enter, this island must be rounded to West. Inside there is 14 fathoms water,
and farther inside, 6 to 4i fathoms, sandy bottom. A high rock, lying E. ^ N.,
9^ miles from the entrance, and 2^ miles from the nearest coast, will point out
the situation of this harbour.

At 6 miles N.N.E. from the East point of Amlia, M. KlotschkofF, an officer
of the Russian marine, commanding a small vessel, the Tschirikoff, for the
American Company, is stated to have discovered a high reck, of 20 fathoms in
diameter, on which he foimd an immense number of sea-calves.

The strait between Amlia and Atkha is not more than 1 ^ mile broad, is still
fiirther narrowed by some rocks, and cannot be passed by a sailing vessel, on
account of the furious currents.

ATKHA, or Atcha, is the largest and principal of this group. The length
of the island, from the S.W. extremity to the farthest point to the N.E., is
more than 50 nautic miles. And here we find the same feature, so general in
the eastern group, of a narrow and low S.W. extremity, enlarging and increasing
in height to the N.E. Like the Peninsula of Makouchin, on Ounalashka, the
North part of Atkha also forms a peninsula, crowned with high mountains, the
northernmost of which is the active and smoking volcano, called Korovinskot,
lying on the North coast, and 4,988 ft. in height. Seen from the N.E., it pre-
sents two summits, and on the North is very steep, and the shore inaccessible.
At 4 miles to the South rises the volcano of Klutchevskoi, and not far from the
N.E. extremity is another. The base of the Korovinskoi volcano advances to
the North into the sea, forming a rocky escarpment, which is the North ex-
tremity of the island. To the East of this cape the coast trends to the S.E. by E.
On the other side it runs nearly on the parallel without curvature to the N.W.
extremity, called Cape Potainikoff, and forms a low, even, flat point, and drop-
ping perpendicularly. It is thus called or account of a reef 'extending Uu'nco ?
miles to the westward. On the cape is a steep, conical volcanc . 1' rom < h' <
the high and cliffy coast runs to the southward, to the low and nurrow i8tti'^''^ui

ANDREANOFF ISLANDS— ATKHA.

679

of Sergheieff. Its West extremity, Cape Korovinskaia, rises out of the sea in
a steep cliflP, with many slips.

Korovinskaia Bay, which opens to the West, is formed hy the large penin-
sula and the connecting isthmus. Two coves form the harbour of Korovinskaia,
which is perfectly sheltered, hut has an extremely difficult entrance between
tw o very low spits of grav jl. Mr. Dall found the harbour nearly useless, having
silted up, and not more than 12 ft. could be carried over the bar.

The outer bay is 6^ m:le& broad in its opening. There is only anchorage on
the North side, in 14 fr.thoms, before the entrance to the harbour. It is without
danger in the fine season, but in autumn terrible gales, passing from N.W. to
N.E., occur, when a ship could net remain here ; and at such times the entrance
is covered with breakers for several weeks together.

There are two villages upon Atkha. That called Nikolskoi, on the South
side of the inner harbour of Korovinskaia, consisted of a few houses for the em-
ployes of the Russian Company, a church, &c., and is in a low and damp situa-
tion, and has many disadvantages. There are about 300 natives on the island.
One great inconvenience of Atkha is the extreme scarcity of provisions.

There are two coves on the South side of Korovinskaia Bay. That nearest
to the isthmus is only worthy of attention from the fact that fossil wood is
found here, which may be an indication of coal. The other cove, Sarannaia,
is to the S.W. of the former, and is the only place where a ship can anchor
conveniently, and also may procure water.

At 6 miles south-westward of Cape laitchnoi, and 2 or 3 miles off shore, is
the solitary island Soleny (salt) ; it is small, and not high, and between it and
i\o. (Aii^ is the long Staritchkoff Reef. Beyond Cape laitchnoi the North coast
o' iikiu ■curves to the S.W., and forms several bays, which are open and un-
imr 'itii)');. To the eastward of Soleny Island, and to the South of a cape
£.>:.£. fioiP that island, is the deep bay of Gloubokaia, which, it is said, affords
excfcil: t slvlter. To the S.E. of Soleny Island is a landlocked bay, in which
are sonit oxcellent harbours.

Cape Tolstoi projects considerably into the sea. On its East side is an open
bay ; ju its West side is Kovurovskaia Bay, extending first south-eastward, and
ther. eastward. It is 24 or 25 miles from Korovinskaia Harbour, and, in fine
•<■, oather, is serviceable, but in bad or foggy weather its entrance is difficult.
On the S.W. side of Cape Tolstoi is a conical peak, which rises high and
solated near the coast ; and between this and Koniuji Island, at some miles in
*\v^ offing, are the islets which shelter the bay. Steer for the largest of them,
J 1 romul it carefully by the lead, and, when once it is doubled, the entrance
IS not difficult. Near the cape lying near the conical peak, called for this
reason Fodsajjolclinoi (under the peak), is a sunken rock, which only breaks at
times. To avoid this, pass between the islands.

coast trends 4 miles S

" roni

cape

Cape

Bttchvvimkoi, from which a reef extends for IJ mile to the north-westward j

^^im.\

I
j

;!i

680

THE ALEUTIAN ARCHIPELAGO.

' 1

and in this direction, at 8 or 9 miles from the coast, is the small island
Koniouge, which is an enormous rock, perpendicular to the North, and a low
point to the S.W. Its surface is constantly changing from volcanic effects,
and the Aleutes say that it regularly and slowly keeps rising out of the water :
around and on it are an innumerahle number of birds.

Beyond Cape Betchevinskoi the coast turns to the South, and forms a shallow
bay which penetrates 2 or 3 miles inland, the bottom being separated from the
South coast of Atkh ^ '^) ^k narrow, marshy isthmus, not more than 300 yards
broad. Beyond this d' i trends 2 miles to W.S.W., not far from the

mountains, and then turn- ,.'n to the South, forming two small bays. Beyond
this again the coast extends northward and westward, and then forms an obtuse
bluff cape ; then at a mile farther, another peaked cape ; after which the
island narrows so as to be not more than one-third of a mile broad, and forms
a low, sandy isthmus. To the south-westward of this isthmus a mountain, the
last in the island, forms the S.W, extremity of Atkha, distant 37 or 38 miles
from the village in a direct line, and about 18 miles from Cape Tolstoi.

It may be said that there is no summer in Atkha ; for during those months
fogs and rain are particularly prevalent. In winter, on the contrary, the
weather is generally clear. The island has abundant evidence everywhere of
its volcanic fires.

Kattatotchy Island, which bears W. by N. J N., 9 or 10 miles from the
mountain on the S.W. extremity of Atkha, is an extinct volcano. It is a
mountain rising at once out of the sea, the crater on its summit being stated to
be full of water.

Tohastie Islands, a group of small but high islands to the West of Atkha,
are thus called {tchastie, crowded) from their arrangement. There are thir-
teen of different sizes, and six large isolated rocks. The island nearest to Atkha
is Oglodah, 3i miles distant. It is high, steep, and without landing. These
islands are said to be unapproachable, from the strong tide-races and currents
which rush between them.

Sitkhin Island, which, to distinguish it from another of the same name to
the West, is sometimes called East or Great Sitkhin, is in lat. 52° 4' or 5', and
about long. 176° 10' (centre). It is about 25 miles in circumference, and in its
centre is a volcano covered with perpetual snow, which was ascertained by
M. Inghestrom to be 5,033 English feet in elevation.

Adakh is a large mountainous island, but lower than Sitkhin ; it is covered
with perpetual snow in some parts. Its North end is in about lat. 52° 3'.
The bay on the North side is open, and there are others on the N.E., South,
and V.'esi Bidec ; that to the South offers the best shelter. It is separated
by a small isthmus from the bay on the West coast. About the middle of the
N.W. side of the island is the Bay of Islands, with good anchorage behind
one of the islands. The position and details of the island are very imperfect,
as are also those of the next island.

KRYCI OR RAT ISLANDS.

681

all island
ind a low
c effects,
e water :

Kanaga, or Konniaga, is the island next West to Adakh, to which it is
similar in size, being about 28 miles in length, by 5 miles in breadth. The
northern part of this island is remarkable by a high smoking volcano, one of
the most lofty in the chain ; the rest of the island is not very high. Near to
its western part is a small island bearing the name of the Isle of Otters. These
islands, however, are but incorrectly delineated and placed on the charts.

Tanaga is separated from Kanaga by a channel 2 leagues broad, extending
8 leagues in a north-easterly direction. It is about 27 miles in extent, from
E. by N. to W. by S., and of irregular breadth. It is easily distinguished by
an elevated volcano, which stands at its S.W. point. Near the point is a bay,
which Sarytscheff visited ; the entrance may be about 4 miles broad, and it is
about 8 miles deep. At this distance, in the North part of the bay, the vessel
in which he penetrated anchored on a bottom of fine black sand, in front of
the entrance of two rivers. Watering is very easily performed in this bay, the
boats ascending the rivers without any obstacles.

About 20 miles S.W. * W. of the North point of Tanaga is Goreloy or Burnt
Island, with a circumference of 6 leagues. It has a very high volcano, whose
summit is covered with perpetual snow; and M. Inghestriim considers this
volcano, and those on Kanaga and Tanaga, as the highest in the Aleutian chain.
However, later observations do not confirm this.

South of this is a small group, the chief of which are the two small Dilaroff
Islands, which, with those South of it, form the westernmost of the group of
the Andreanoffsky Islands. Sarytscheff found the passage between them and
the S.W. point of Tanaga quite clear.

At some distance eastward of the eastern islet are two rocks. At about 12
miles southward of Goreloy is a third island, Kakhvalga ; and a few miles
westward of the latter is Ounalga, a low island. Ulak, also low, and the
largest of all, is to the southward of Tanaga.

Amatignak and Illak are also two islands to the southward of these again.
The southernmost, Amatignak (" a chip " in Aleute), is the larger of the two,
and the highest of all.

KRYCI OR RAT ISLANDS.

The islands next West of the foregoing are included by Liitke and others
under the above denomination.

Semiaopoohnoi. — About 50 miles West of Goreloy or Burnt Island is the
Itle of the Seven Mountains. The name (Semisopochnoi) is significant of its
character. It is of a circular form, and is 10 leagues in circumference.

According to M. Inghestriim, its lat. is 51° 59', and its long. 179" 45' 57" E.
The mountains do not much exceed 3,000 ft. in height. One of the mountains
in the North part sends forth smoke. The North and East sides have a wild
Iforth Fac\fic. 4 8

■iHk

688

THE ALEUTIAN ARCHIPELAGO.

and desolate aspect. ; on the South and West there are aereral green spots.
The shores are in general clear.

The strait between Semisopochnoi and Ooreloy is the best for crossing the
Aleutian chain. It is safe throughout, is not less than -i5 miles broad, and is
not subject to tide races.

Amtohitka is a large island; it is not very hilly, and extends about 10
leagues W.N.W. and E.S.E. Near its West point are two small islands, the
larger of which is called Hat Island, a name, as above mentioned, which has
been extended to the whole group. Behring probably saw this island on
October 25th, and gave it the name of St. Maroiau (Markiana). He says it
was moderately high, and covered with snow.

It is low, and is not more than 4 miles wide at the S.E. part, but is
broader and higher in the N.W. Its S.E. extremity forms a peninsula, on
which a hillock rises, and from it a reef extends for 2 miles. The South
coast runs nearly in a straight line, without any bays or coves. At about a
third the length of the island a chain of moderately high mountains rises, and
falls again toward the N.W. extremity, where it forms a low but steep cape,
called by the Aleutes Satanna, or Bird's Cape.

On the North side of the island, at 10 miles firom its East end, is Kirilovskaia
Bay, which was stated to be the only place in the island where you cun stay at
anchor. This anchorage it. jomewhat sheltered from seaward by a reef off its
middle, which requires caution in entering ; there are also some reefs on either
side of it. It is dangerous to remain here in autumn or winter, when northerly
gales are prevalent. The lat. of the hay is 61° 27' 1", long. 179° 20' E. High
water occurs about 10 o'clock, at full and change.

However, when it was visited by Mr. Dall, in 1873, he found nowhere more
than 3 fathoms of water, and only the smallest class of vessels could enter it.
The schooner Yukon anchored in Constanline Harbour, on the North side of
the S.E. end of the island.

To the N.W. of Amtchitka are the Tschegoula Isles, a group of four small
hilly islands, which extend about 6 leagues. One of these is called by Liitke
Little or West Sitkhin, another is named Davydoff.

Kryci, Rat, or Ayougadagh Island, which gives its name to the group, is 7
miles long, mountainous, and in lat. 51° 45', long. 178° 10' E.

Kilka, a hilly island, with the exception of its eastern part, which is low,
lies to the W. by N. of the preceding. Its length, N.E. by E. and S.W. by W.,
is 25 miles. A rock, in the form of a column, lies 3 miles N.W. of the island.
Behring saw the island October 28, 1741, and he named it St. Stephan. Accord-
ing to M. Inghcstrbm, there exists to the East of Kiska, at 1^ mile distant, a
small isle, which he called Little Kiska; and 3 miles from this, in the same
direction, the small island Tannadagh, and a rock. He also mentions some
rocks, which do not uncover, between the islands Bouldyr and Kiska, at the
distance of 5 leagues from the former. Capt. Liitke, however, considers this

BLIJNl OROUP-ATTOU.

683

position as doubtful. Some other detached rocks are stated to lie in the
channel eastward of the island. Capt. Hague, S.S. Dora, 1884, reports that
he observed a reef with kelp on it, over which the sea broke, about 5 miles
eastward of the N.E. point of Kiska.

The harbour of Kiska is a noble bay, perfectly protected from all winds,
with good holding ground and a moderate depth of water. The entrance is
wide enough to enable a sailing vessel to beat in or out at any time. There
are lo hidden dangers, and the depth of water is sufficient for any vessel. —
Mr. W. H. Ball.

Booldyr lies to the W.N.W. of Kiska. It is a hilly island, surrounded by
peaked rocks, which extend to half a league beyond the S.W. point of the
island. It is about 4 leagues in circumference, and two large rocks exist at the
western part of the island.

BLIJNl GROUP.

This group, composed of two islands and a collection of separate rocks, is
called Blij'ni, or Near Islands, because it is the nearest to Kamchatka, of the
Aleutian chain. The discovery belongs to Behring.

Semitsch forms a portion of this westernmost group of the Aleutian Islands.
It consists of two small islands half a league apart, and extending E. by S. and
W. by N., 6 or 7 miles, with some rocks beyond the East end. On the charts
of Sarytsche£f and the Russian Admiralty a group of rocks, named Ingestem,
was inserted, as lying 16 leagues to the E. by S. of the Isle of Attou. Their
distance from the S.E. extremity of the Semitsch group is estimated at 10
miles in an E. by S. J S. direction, but their position is very doubtful.

Agatton, to the S.W. ) S. of the Semitsch Islands, according to Sary tschelF,
has a circumference of 34 miles. It is separated from Attou by a strait of 1 5
or 20 miles wide.

ATTOU is one of the largest of the Aleutian Islands, and has about 220 in-
habitants. Its eastern extreme lies 18 miles W. by N. from the Semitsch
Islands. According to Capt. Golownin's observations, in 1808, it is 27^ miles
in length, East and West ; but Admiral Sarytecheff makes it 48 miles long. In
the S.E. part of the island is a bay called Massacre Bay. It is about 3 miles
wide, and midway between the two outer capes is a group of small islets and
rocks, within which there also appears to be a low reef, and another lies out-
side them, half a mile to the S.W. Lieutenant Etolin discovered on the North
coast of Attou an excellent bay, which he called Tschitschagoff Bay, where
the BuBsian-American Company had an establishment. It is in lat. 52° 56',
and 9 miles from the eastern point of the island.

This is the western extremity of the Aleutian chain, which forms the south-
eastern limit of the Sea of Behring. The two islands lying near the coast of
Kamohatkai Copper and Behring Islands, 180 miles to the N.W., might almost

BEimiNG SKA.

be considered as a continuation of the chain, but, as they are more connected
with the western coast, they are described hereafter in connection with it.

Attou is the westernmost of the islands ceded by Russia to the United States,
being so mentioned in the treaty. The territorial division passes midway be*
tween it and Copper Island, and then in a straight line to the middle of Behring
Strait.

'« i:

BEHBINO SEA.

The extensire landlocked sea which bears the name of its great discoverer
has been alluded to in the introduction to this chapter. Although very remote
from ordinary commerce, its eastern part has been frequently traversed by
navigators competent to ^escribe its features. Of these. Admirals Beechey,
Kellett, Collinson, Captai . Moore, Trollope, and others, may be cited as having
aided in composing the chart. The one great physical feature is the extensive
bank of soundings which stretches off for 26 to 350 miles from the American
coast, affording an immense anchoring ground for the whaling fleet which fre-
quents its waters. The eastern side, with which we are loss acquainted, is
deeper, causing a great difference in the mode of whale-fishing ; to the eastward,
the animal plunging into the mud in shoal water ; to the westward, diving to
great depth

The whale-fishery has been mentioned in the introductory remarks to this
chapter. But, in addition to their primary pursuit, the whalemen were all
more or less traders, and by their traffic with the natives of the more distant
ports and places, so far interfered with the exclusive privileges of the Russian-
American Company, that the question was made one of justice to the Russians,
that the United States should extinguish this privilege by the payment of a
sum of purchase money.

The shallowness of the northern part of the sea, and of Behring Strait, has a
marked effect on its physical condition. It will not allow of any floating ice-
bergs drifting southwards from the Arctic Sea ; the current generally sets
northward, so that its climate, though severe, is not so inclement as a region
in a corresponding latitude on the opposite side of the American continent. In
consequence of the comparative shallowness of the water, a strong wind will
raise a very ugly sea in a short time.

The seasons of navigation upon the two shores of Behring Sea are usually
somewhat uneven, the ice remaining longer in spring upon the Alaskan coast
than it does on the Siberian shore ; and the reverse in autumn, when the ice
from the Arctic forces its way through Behring Strait, and fills the western
portion of this sea for some distance before ice commences to form on the East
coast.— Cruise of the " Corwin'*

The American side all belongs now to the United States, as before men*
tioned, being included in the Alaska territory. And our task is rendered 8Qm««

riL

tHE PENINSULA Of ALIASKA.

685

what difficult on account of the change of masters, which may induce other
changes of which wc have received no account.

The PENINSULA of ALIASKA,* whose south-eastern coast has been pro*
Tiously described, forms, with the Aleutian Archipelago, the southern limits of
Behring Sea, or, as it has been sometimes called, the Sea of Kamchatka. The
description is therefore resumed at the point where the former left off, namely,
at the Strait of Isanotskoy. The charts are imperfect.

Point Krtnitzin appears to be the first prominent point to the .lorth-eastward.
It is the extremity of a low bed of gravel, and is the N.W. point of an open
bay, on the East side of which is the village Morjovskoi (Morses), standing on
low, marshy land, intersected with numerous lakes.

henbek is the next port in proceeding north-eastward. Its S.W. point. Cape
Glaxenap, or Mitkoff, is in lat. 55° 14' 8", long. 162° 50' 7" W. This cape is
very remarkable by a considerable elevation, and by its form ; at a distance it
is like an island separated from the low land to the South of it. The mouth
of the bay is filled up by a long and very low island, divided into two or three
at high water. Its South point is about a mile distant from Cape Qlazenap,
and its North point above 2 miles from Cape Moffet. The depth in the South
entrance was found to be 4 } and 5 fathoms, bottom of fine black sand. It was
considered that Izcnbek Bay would offer anchorage.

Amah or Aamak Island, lying off this part of the coast, is an extinct vol-
cano, about 2,000 ft. high, covered with calcined stones and lava. It is rather
less than 4 miles in length, in a N.W. and S.E. direction, and the position of
its South extremity is lat. 55° 25', long. 163° 1' 30". At 2 miles N.W. from
its North end is a rock called Sivoutchy (or Sea-lions) Rock. Between the
island and the main the depth is from 9 to 14 fathoms. Shoals are stated to
extend W.N.W. and S.S.E. of it.

The coast to the north-eastward presents nothing very remarkable : it trends
first N. by £. ^ E., and then N.E. f N. For a distance of 50 miles there are
only two capes, Leontovitch and Leskoff, somewhat higher than the rest. In
this space there is much drift-wood. Cape Leontovitch is low, but is the most
conspicuous, as beyond it the coast trends more to the East.

Cape Rojnoff or Roshnoff, which is at the extremity of the extent of coast
above alluded to, is very low ; and at IJ mile from it is the western point of
Kritskoi Island, also very low ; the two form the entrance to a shallow bay,
which runs in to a low isthmus, about 3 miles in breadth, separating it from
Pavlovskaia Bay, on the South coast of Aliaska. The chain of mountains which
extends through the peninsula is interrupted in this part. The rise of the tide
is 16 ft., and the (approximate) time of high water is T*" 30"".

* Captain Liitke says, that in spelling this AliasUa he follows the orthography generally
adopted in the colonies. It was sometimes previously spelt Aliaksa, The natives pronouoM
it Aliaktkha; so that both modes are right or wroog4

fiEtmmo sfiA.

HOLLER BAT is a large indentation of the land, which narrows the penin-
sula to 12 miles in breadth at this part. A large portion of this bay is filled
with shoals, which uncover at low water ; but in its S.E. angle is a small cove,
where there is sufficient water for every description of vessels. This is the only
port which exists on all the North coast of Aliaska. It is about a mile in length
and breadth, with from 4^ to 8 fathoms, muddy bottom. In entering it you
must range close to the bed of gravel covering the cove from seaward, to
avoid a shoal which is less than a mile from it ; and as soon as you have made
out this bed of gravel, steer for a point on the East side of the port, which is
particularly remarkable by its blackish colour, and which lies about 1^ mile
N.E. by E. from the extremity of the gravel bed. The mountains, which are
of a moderate height, advance here to the coast, leaving no room for the mossy
plains which generally occupy the space between the foot of the mountains and
the sea-shore.

The bay is about 6 miles wide in its opening. Its entrance on the West side
is formed by the East point of KritaJcoi Island, which was determined to be in
lat. 66° 0' 7", long. 160° 41' W. The extremity of the bed of gravel which
forms the port is 7^ miles to the S.E. by E. from this. Kritskoi Island is very
low, and extends 9 miles along the coast in an E. by N. and W. by S, direction.
Opposite its West end is Cape Rojnoff, before mentioned.

From Moller Bay the coast trends to the N. by E. ^ E., and at 20 miles
distant is Cape Koutouzoff. This cape is high and abrupt, and 13 miles
N. by E. I E. from it is Cape Siniavine, also high and steep, the space between
being low, except two hillocks on the coast, about midway between. Cape
S6niavine is in lat. 56" 23' 45", long. 160' 2' 46" W.

* The coast beyond this offers nothing remarkabli for a considerable distance,
and consists of a low, level, mossy plain. At about 9 leagues from Cape Senia-
vine a low bed of gravel commences, which extends in front of the coast for 10
miles. Beyond this the low level coast extends 10 miles farther to Cape Stro-
gonoff, which is extremely low, and projects 2 miles to the North.

Comte Heiden Bay (or Houdobin Bay) is formed by the low .Cape Strogo-
noff to the westward. Before this cape is an islet, equally low, called on the
chart Chestahoff Islet, and between this islet, or rather between the shoal off
its North end, and the coast of the continent, is the entrance of the bay, which
extends 6 miles to the S.E., and the opening is 2i miles broad.

From this the coast, equally low, uniform, and covered with moss, trends
to the N. by E. In lat. 57° 5' are two moderately high capes, terminating to
seaward in sandy downs.

Cape Menchikoff (named after the Prince) is in lat. 57° 30' 4", long.
157° 58' 5", and consists of a mound of sand, with marshy land surrounding it
on all sidfts. At 8 miles N. by E. from this is the mouth of the River Ougatchik,
or Soulima, which is 2 miles broad, and has a depth in its entrance of from 10
to 18 ft. at low water. The North point of its mouth, named Cape Greig after

%:s^-

BRISTOL BAY.

687

the Admiral, is high and steep ; it is in lat. 57° 43', long. 157° 47' 2", and is
surrounded by sand-banks, dry at low water. From this the coast trends, low,
level, and straight, in a general N. i W. direction to the mouth of the Agougak
River.

The Biver Agongak, or Ugagouk, Krusenstem considers to be the northern
limit of the Peninsula of Aliaska, as it really separates Aliaska from the con-
tinent of America. It rises in a lake called Nanouantoughat, which is only
separated from the Strait of Chelighoff by a neck of land 5 miles in breadth,
at the back of the Bay of Poualo. Over this space was a portage for the mer-
chandise collected by the Russian-American Fur Company at the establish-
ments in Bristol Bay, which was thus transported, by means of the river, to
the head-quarters at Sitka.

The breadth of the river is about 2 miles at its mouth, and at about 7 miles
N.E. from it is a hill, which, with Cape Tschitchagoff, serves to point out the
position of the entrance. Its shores are very low, particularly the South side.
The current is very rapid, the tide rising 20 ft.

Cape Tschitchagoff, on the North side, is bluff without being high, and sur-
rounded for 2 miles distant by shoals dry at low water.

From this cape a level marshy coast succeeds. Its aspect is most extraor-
dinarily monotonous, and for 30 miles in a North direction there is only one
spot, in about lat. 58° 35', where there is a hill, which rises about 200 yards
from the sea, forming an elevation like a wall composed of sand and clay.
Cape Souvoroff, which is at the distance above named, forms the North point
of the mouth of the River Nanek or Naknek. This river, flowing from a lake
of the same name, traverses the Peninsula of Aliaska. At its mouth it is about
two-thirds of a mile in breadth, and there is 2 fathoms water in it. On each
side of the mouth are villages ; that to the right is Kouichougoumut, that to
the left Faougvigumut. The position of the latter, which was a Russian esta-
blishment, named Souvoroff, was ascertained to be in lat. 58° 42' 5" N., long.
157° 0' 30" W. The River Nanek abounds with an extraordinary quantity of
fish. From the evidences seen on its borders, the tide rises in the river tj
30 ft.

BBISTOL BAY. — The coast we have been describing forms the southern
portion of the coast of this bay, which was named by Captain Cook after the
Admiral, the Earl of Bristol. This great indentation was sailed around by
Capt. Cook, but the shoals which obstruct it prevented his making a detailed
examination of its shores. Lieut. Chramtschenko, an officer of merit, who
accompanied Kotzebue in the Rurick, was sent in 1821 to examine it in detail,
and subsequently to 1821, he, together with M. Etoline, a naval officer in the
Russian- American Company's service, were annually despatched, in two vessels,
to explore the American coasts. To these officers we owe the more accurate
knowledge of all the coast from Cape Newenham to Norton Sound, which Capt.
Cook could not approach on account of the shoal water.

'^^y

088

■^;!

BEHRING SEA.

Cape Newenham formf the northern point of this baj', and Capo Ounimuk,
tho western point of the Lland of that name off' Aliaska, may be taken as its
southern limit ; the lattei lies 270 miles South of Cape Newenham, so that tiie
N.W. c«.'a8t of Aliaska forms the southi'-n part of Bristol Bay.

This bay contains another inner bay, which is formed by a promontory, named
Cape Consiantine, and within which three rivers debouch. The northernmost
of these is the Bristol Jtiver. Tbo Oiiglaghnioutes (as the natives of the bay
are called) give it the name of Quitsh'ik, or Kticha.k. The Ougaguk, on the
opposite side, ha? been before described.

The third rivisr which enters this inner bay, to thA 'westward of the Bristol
River, is called Nouchagak, or Xoushagak, its course being in a northerly
direction. The opening farmed 0.1 the North by the coast, and by Cape Con-
stantine on the South, may be taken as its mouth, which is 20 miles broad, and
preserves this breadth to the distance of 30 miles ; it then turns rather more to
the eastward, and its breadth begins to diminish. In lat. 58° 57' the river is
still 3 miles broad, and it is here, on tho left bank, that the Russian Company
founded an establishment, called Fort Alexandroffsk or Alexandra. A bank,
15 miles in length, lies before this establishment; and it is between this bank
and the main iand that there is a passage to the road of Alexandroffsk. The
tides are very strong in the river ; they rise 23 ft. in the summer months, and
47 ft. in the autumn. The ebb tide runs from 4 to 5 miles an hour.

The extremity of Cape Constantino is in lat. 58° 29' N., long. 158° 45' W.
It is surrounded by sand-banks .,0 the distance of 4 leagues to the southward.
In ge leral, all the coast betv'een the mouths of the Nouchagak and Bristol
Rivers is bounded by similar sand-banks. The eastern point of the bay, form-
ing the entrance of the Nouchagak, is named Cape Etoline, the bank extending
off which narrows the eritrance of the river to 7 miles in breadth. The bay
itself is called Khramf.schenko Bay. after the Russian surveyor.

From Cape Cor>staiitine the coast uxkes a westerly direction, and forms, with
Cape Newenham, an extensive bay of 105 miles in extent, into which the two
rivers, Kululah and Tujugiak, discharge themselves. There are several islands
in this bay ; Cook only saw the easternmost, which he named Round Island,
and this is an elevated hii!, cbout 7 miles from the coast. At the distance of
20 miles to the westward of Round Island is a larger one, about 50 miles in
circumference, which has been named Hagemeister Islund, after the captain of
that name, who was for some time commander of the Russian Company's
colonies here. Between Calm Point, its southern point, and Roimd Island,
there are four other islands in a north-easterly direction. Lieut. Khramtschenko
passed between these islands, and between the main land and Hagemeister
Island. This channel is about 8 miles in length, and it nxay be passed through
either from the North or South ; the anchorage in it is safe throughout. About
24 miles W.S.W. of Calm Pnint is Cape Peirce, behind which, according to
Khramtschenko, there is a small bay which affords anchorage.

CAPK NEWENIIAM— NUNIWACK ISLAND.

CfiO

CAPE NEWENHAM, 13 miles to tho W. | S. of this bay, was seen by
Captain Cook, July ICth, 1778, and was so named by his lieutenant, Mr.
Williamson, who landed here. It is n rocky point of tolerable height, situated
in lat. 58° 42', long. 162° 5'. Over, or within it, or«> two elevated hills, rising
one behind tho other, the innermost, or easternmost, being the higher. Tlie
country produces neither tree nor shrub, and the hills are naked.

Off tho westernmost point of the cape there is a small island, according to
the Russian charts, named Sea Lions' Island. From Cape Newenham tho
coast trends to tho northward, and here commence the sand-banks and shoals
lying before tho mouth of the great river Kuskowime, or Kouskoijiiim, which
discharges itself into the sea in lat. 59° 60', and which was explored by Lieuts.
Khramtschcnko and Etoline. There are many villages on its banks. Off tho
entrance, and about midway between Capes Newenham and Avinoff, a 9-feet
shoal is marked on the chart.

About 18 miles N.E. by N. of Cape Newenham is Tchayxan Bay, 4 J miles
long, and 3 miles broad. It is 2 cables wide at the entrance, the sides of which
are lined with shoals.

The Bay of Good News, 16 miles N.W. J N. from Tchagvan Bay, was
reached by the land expedition of Oustugoff and Korsakoff in 1818—19. If
it received its name from the reports gathered of some white-bearded men on
the banks of the Kvikhpak River, it would be more properly called the Bay of
False Alarms. It was examined in 1821 by M. Etoline. From his observations,
the extremity of the gravel bed, which bounds the opening of the bay to the
North, is in lat. 59° 3' 9", long. 101° 53'. 24 miles North of Cape Newenham.
It penetrates 8^ miles in a N.N.E. direction, and is 5^ miles broad, but its
entrance is narrowed by beds of gravel to a width of half a mile. Its shores
are surrounded with shoals, so that there is only good anchorage in the middle,
and that not too far in. In entering, keep on the North side. It is high
water, on full and change, at about 6^ 15"; the greatest rise being 13 to 16 ft.

Capt. Cook endeavoured to proceed northward along this coast, and pene-
trated to lat. 59° 37 J', but was prevented from getting farther from the shallow-
ness and intricacy of the channel. He then attempted to proceed to the west-
ward, but it was not until he had returned nearly to the parallel of Cape
Newenham, by the same route, that he could get to the West, clear of the
banks of sand and stones which confine it.

Under a line drawn from the North point of Goodnews Bay to Cape Avinoff,
the greatest depth between the shoals is 8 fathoms. In lat. 69° 48' is the bar
with only 2 fathoms, end a little lower down the channel is divided by a sand-
bar which has 6 fathoms in the narrow channel to the East, and only two in
the broader western one. — Mr. W. H. Dall.

NUNIWACK ISLAND,* discovered by Captain Wassilieff in 1821, lies

• Nuniwack, or, as it is otherwise spelt, Nounivak, or Nounivok (Liitke), was so uumed
North Facific. 4 i

■W

1 1)

if I 5:

690

BEIIRING SEA.

/ri

ii •

.1^ i

\V. by N., 130 miles distant from Cape Ncwonham. It is about 55 miles iu
extent K. by N. and W. by S., and about half that in breadth. Cape Etoline,
its N.E. extremity, is in lat. 60° 27' N., long. IGfi'' 10' \V., and its S.E. point
is in lat. 60° N., long. 16;')° 22' W. A channel, 25 miles in breadth, separates
it from the continent, which l>cre forms a large cape in lat. 60° 35' N., long.
165° 20' W,, discovered by M. I'Holiue, to which he gave the name of Ccipe
Vancouver, and that of Cook to the strait, now named Etoline. The average
depth in the strait ib 5 to 8 fathoms, deeper toward the island.

Cape Etoline lies about 25 miles S.W. of Cape Vancouver, and has a sunken
rock off it. The West extreme, which forms a moderately high, steep cape,
is in lat. 60° 10'. From this the N.W. coast trends N.E., and the S.W. coast
to E. by S. ^ S. In approaching it from the West, the island presents a level
coast, not high, and terminating to seaward in reddish cliffs. There are several
places where anchorage may be found ; but the best place is in the strait on
the continental side, where the depth is 6 to 8 fathoms, gravel bottom. Several
villages were seen on the island.

The Corivin found good anchorage, with shelter from a S.W. gale, on its
North side, about 20 miles from the West end, off a small native settlement.
The natives were very shy.

Cape Avinoff, the S.E. limit of Etoline Strait, is in lat. 59° 40'. It is not
high, but at a distance resembles an island. It is surrounded by shoals to the
distance of 7 or 8 miles, so that it cannot be approached even in a boat within
this distance. This bank lines the coast as far as Cape "N'ancouver itself. On
the North side of (.'ape Vancouver is a wide and shallow indentation of the
coast, named Etoline or Hazen Bay.

CAPE ROMANZOFF, or Roumiantsoff, was thus named after the great
statesman by MM. Khramtschenko and Etoline, although Capt. Schischmareff
had already seen it two months previously, that is, in June, 1821. It forms
the western extremity of the vast and marshy delta of the Yukon River. M.
Etoline determined its lat. as 61° 53' ; M. Khramtschenko as 61° 50' 5' ; and
its long, is about 166° 13'. It is thus about 80 miles N.W. { N. from Cape
Vancouver. It is high and bluff, and in the middle of August was still partly
covered with snow, whitli well distinguishes it from the low and sandy sliorcs
to the North and South of it. It is entirely free from wood, like the adjacent
coasts. When seen from a great distance, it shows like islands.

Between this cape and Stuart Island, to the N.N.E., the coast is low and
marshy, with here and there capes and small hills, and intersected by the
mouths of the River Yukon. The sandy shoals which line this space, accord-
ing to what the inhabitants say, do not reach to the coast itself, but leave be-

by the Company's officers, EtolinBand Khramtschonko, who, Bimultttuoously wiih Wussilioff,
discovered it in l«L'l, iiftor tho native app«'.Ilalion. Tho lutlor culled it, from his hliiu,
DUcofei-y Ulmd, but tho first name is £ar tho bast.

InvimnNBLaii

mmsimmmmm

THE YUKON RITER.

691

5 miles iu

ue Etuline,
S.E. point
, separates
N., long.
le of Cape
\xc average

s a sunken
teep cape,
S.W. coast
;nts a level
are several
B strait on
m. Sever.ll

ale, on its
settlement.

It is not
loals to the
)oat within
itself. On
ion of the

the great
lischm/irefF
It forms
Kiver. M.
0' 5' ; and
from Cape
still partly
ndy shores
e adjacent

s low and
id by the
e, accord-
leave be-
ll Wussilioff,

tween a chnnncl deep enough for ships ; it is only off the river mouths that it
)■• broken by other banks, between which are tlio passes. Outside this exten-
sive shoal two j-atches of 4^ fathoms have been reported, one about 4(7 miles
W. J S. -irom the West end of Stuart Island, and the other 25 miles farther to
S. by W. J W.

The YUKON RIVER is one of the largest of North-West America ; yet
our knowledge of its existence dates from very recent times. Its character wa.i
first made known to Europe by the Expedition in 1850 — l,and one of Captain
(afterwards Admiral) CoUinaon's officers, Lieut. Barnard, was killed at Nulato
by the natives, in ascending it. But the officers of the Russian-American
Company first ascended it in 1835. Derabin went from Norton Sound to the
river in 1839, and in 1842 commenced the Fort at Nulato, which long bore his
name. It was visited in the same year by Lieut. Zagoskin, I.R.N. , who made
many observations here.

The Yukon or Kwich-pak (pronounced Kwif-pak, both words signifying
"big river"), is an immense stream. At Nulato, 600 miles above its mouth,
but only 50 miles from the head of Norton Sound, the river is from ^ to 4 or
6 miles wide, and it has been ascended, still as a large stream, for 1,800 miles.
Its tributaries would be large streams in Europe. But all this magnificence of
nature seems doomed to be almost useless to man.

At one period it was of the greatest interest to civilization. It was selected
by ihe Western Union Telegraph Company as the route by which the telegraph
wires were to connect the New and the Old World; and, as before stated, this
gigantic enterprise had far advanced, when, in 1867, the success of the Atlantic
cable led to its sudden abandonment, an event which caused so much sorrow in
those employed on it, that they hung black cloth on the telegraph poles at
Unalachleet, in Norton Sound, and put them into mourning.

Mr. Frederick Whymper's admirable work on his travels in Alaska, and on
the Yukon, will give many most interesting particulars of this enterprise and of
the river.*

The Yukon enters Norton Sound by many mouths, forrr.'ng an extensive
delta. The turbid waters have so filled up the head of the sound, that it is
very shallow, and the water is fresli 10 miles out to sea.

'I'he various entrances were examined by Capt. E. Everett Smith, attached
to the telegraph party, and he found that the southern mouth, the Koosilvuc,
gave from 2i to 9 fathoms, but the entrance to it is far out. The intermediate
mouths to the North are too shallow, and the Aphoon Moutk, o\>tv'\n^ into the

• Sen, al80, a Paper by tho sumo author in the Journal of the Royal OeoRrnphioal Society,
vol. xxxviii., ISOS, pp. 219- 2 SB ; " Alaska and its Uosourcos," l)y Mr. W. H. Dnll ; and
»n intcivKtiii^' Piper ))y Mr. K. W. Ni'lson, U. S. iSifrnal Service, "A olcdge Journey in
the Doha of the Yukon," pnhlishod in tho Proeocdiiigs of the Royal Cruographical Society,
^'uvenlber, 1882, pp. GGO - 070, with a Map.

■li

«dd

BEHRING SIU.

Kwiklipak montli of the river, is the only available one, and has a depth of 3
fathoms. The mouth of the Kwikhpak is in about lat. G2^ 40', long. 163^ 55'.
The Aphoon, or Uphoon, is also entered by a channel from Pastolik Bay. These
snoutha are generally blocked with ice till June 1st. At the latter mouth is
Pastolik, a village famous for the manufacture of skin boats.

The coast trends to the N.N.W. beyond Pastolik, past Cape Romanoff, a
solitary rounded hill, towards Stuart and St. Michael Islands, southward of
which it turns to N.E. by E. ^ E.

Stnart Island, in lat. 63° 35', is 6 or 7 leagues in circuit. Some parts of it
are of a moderate height ; but in general it is low, with some rocks lying off
the western part. One might anchor in 5 fathoms between the N.E. side of
this island and the continent, but wholly exposed to northerly winds. Also in
the North entrance to the channel between the islands, where 3 fathoms may
be obtained. The coast of the continent is for the most part low land, but
high laud is seen up the country. It forms a point opposite the island, which
was named by Cook Cajye Stephens, and lies in lat. 63" 33', long. 162° 19'; this
is the North extremity of St. Michael Island.

Some drift-wood was seen upon the shores both of the island and of the
continent, but not a tree was perceived growing upon either. The inhabitants
of Norton Sound are entirely dependent on this drift-wood, brought down by
the great Kiver Yukon, and which is found on almost every part of its shores.

St. Michael Island, to the eastward of Stuart Islimd, is 63 miles N. by E. ^ E.
from the Kwikhpak mouth. It can scarcely be oalled an island, as it is sepa-
rated from the main only by an insignificant canal, the bar at its eastern en-
trance having only 5 ft. over it at spring tides.

Chaktolimont Bay, called by Cook Chacktoolc, is an open bay to the north-
ward of St. Michael Island, between Capes Denbigh and Stephens. It is sur-
rounded by a low shore, where the water is so shoal that there is no passage
for ships between Besborough Island and the main, though it is 6 or 7 miles
off it. Capt. Cook anchored in the bay, but he stated that it is but an in-
different anchorage. There was very little rise of tide.

Tebenkoif Cove, on the East end of St. Michael Island, was discovered in
1831 by Lieut. Tebenkoff, an energetic employe of the Russian Company. It
penetrates IJ^ mile to the S.S.W,, and is closed on the South by a small low
island, on each side of which is a strait. The bay is not more than a mile
broad, and at its West extremity are two islets, very close to the coast. As far
ns the middle of the bay there is 21 to 24 ft. of water. The anchorage under
the West side, opposite the village, is only exposed to N.N.W. and N.E. ; but
even with these winds there is no heav)' sea.

REDOUBT ST. MICHAEL (formerly Fort Michaelovshi) ia situated in
Tebenkoff Cove, southward of the villages, and was founded by Lieut. 'J.'eboukoff
in 1833. H.M.S. Herald came here in September, 1843, and Dr. Sceman thus
describei the place. The Fort of St. Michael, or Michaelovskoi, then belonyod

REtDOUBt St. MICHAEt.— UNAtACHLEEt.

to the Russian-American Fur Company, and supplied two other trading posts,
situated some distance in the interior. It is now a trading station of the
Alaska Commercial Company, and stands on a little tongue of land, in lat.
63° 28^^', long, about 162° 3' W. It is built in the form of a square, composed
of trunks of trees, which arc laid horizontally over each other, in the manner
of the American block-houses. At each angle is a watch-tower, with loop-
holes; within '.~ 'valls are the various store and dwelling houses ; close by, a
chapel, consecrated to the rites of the Greek Church ; and at a short distance
a windmill for grinding corn. Grain is imported by way of Sitka, St. Michael
itself not producing it, nor indeed any cultivated vegetables, except a few
turnips. About four hundred yards from the fort is an Esquimaux village, the
inhabitants of which are a much finer-looking race than the more northern
tribes. The country adjacent is, like the greater part of the Arctic regions, a
vast moorland.

Mr. Frederick Whymper came here with the telegraph party in 186.5, and
he says that the station is built on the model of a Hudson Bay Company's
Fort, with enclosure of pickets, and with bastions flanking it. Inside are the
store-houses and dwellings of the employes, including the " casine" (caserne),
or general barrack, bath, and cook-houses. These painted yellow, and sur-
mounted by red roofs, gave it rather a gay appearance. The inhabitants of the
fort — all servants of the Company — were a very mixed crowd.

The entrance into the cove is not at all difficult After reaching Stuart
Island you can run parallel with the coast at the distance (if a mile in not less
than 4 fathoms water ; then you can range very close to the two ish ts .m the
West side of the cove. Coming from the North you must make either Bes-
borough or Egg Islands ; the first lies to the North of the cove, and the second
at 12 miles to the N.E. lu/g Island is smaller and lower than Besborough,
and about it there is anchorage in 3^ fathoms.

Two and a half fothoms may be carried well up into the cove, until opposite
the boat-house. This is the best place for small vessels. The rise of tide will
not average over 4 ft., and depends much upon the wind. Fresh fish, game,
or deer meat, can usually be obtained here by vessels. Good water can be pro-
cured on the shore of the mainland, in a small rocky cove opposite the Redoubt.
—Mr. W. H. Ball.

TJnalachleet, or Unalaklik, about 40 miles N.E. by N. ^ N. from Redoubt
St. Michael, is at the mouth of a small river of the same name, and was a
Russian post founded in 1840. According to Lieut. Zagoskin, it is in lat.
63° 53' 33" N., long. 160" 30' 16"; later observations place it about 13 miles
farther westward. Mr. Whymper states thfit it resembles St. Miciiael in being
enclosed by a picket, but is otherwise on a much smaller and poorer scale.
To the N.W. of the post was a large village of Malemutc and Koriak Indians,
a race of tall and stout people, but in other respects much resembling th»
Esquimaux. Extensive shoals prevail off" the mouth of the river.

«-5?

rs '

i ■:-^'>

694

fiEHWNG SVA.

1 f:

1 1'

hi!
^11

The main stream of the Yukon is not more than 35 miles distant from this
part of the coast, and there is a portage between it and Unalaklik.

Besborouffh Island was seen at 15 leagues off by Cook, and though it lies 6
or 7 miles from the continent, has no channel inside it for ships, on account of
the shallowness of the water. It is stated that there is anchorage in 4 fathoms
inside it.

From the mouth of the Yukon River northward to Behring Strait the coast
is broken occasionally by rugged cliffs, but as a rule is low and undulating ;
along the beach are strewn great quantities of drift-wood. — Cruise of the
" Corwin."

Cape Denbigh is about 50 miles N. f E. from the North end of Stuart
Island, and 8 miles W. by N. f N. from Besborough Island. It is the extremity
of a peninsula, united to the continent by a low neck of land, on each side of
which the coast forms a bay, that to the southward being Chaktolimout Bay,
just mentioned.

The whole of the beach around the bay seemed to be covered with drift-
wood ; but on account of the shoals, which extend quite around, to the distance
of 2 or 3 miles from the shore, it is impossible to get it off.

Norton Bay, the head of Norton Sound, was partially explored by
Mr. King, one of Cook's officers. From the heights, on the West side of the
inlet, the two coasts were seen to join, and the inlet to terminate in a small
river or creek, before which were banks of sand or mud, and everywhere shoal
water.

Bald Head forms the north-western limit of this inner sound, and is about
25 miles to the north-westward of Cape Denbigh. On the West side of Bald
Head the shore forms a bay, in the bottom of which is a low beach. At about
20 miles to the S.W. J S. of this point the coast projects out into a bluff head,
composed of perpendicular strata of a rock of a dark-blue colour. The sound-
ings off this shore are very shoal, not being more than 6 fathoms at a league
off, and decreasing to 3 fathoms and under to the eastward. The coast con-
tinues in a S. ^ W. direction as far as Cape Darby, where it turns to the north-
westward.

Cape Darby is in lat. 64° 16', long. 162" 44'. Capt. Cook anchored off the
coast between Bald Head and this cape in a quarter less 5 fathoms, half a
league from the coast, the South point of which bore S. 26" W. ; Bald Head,
N. 60" E., 26 miles distant; and Besborough Island, S. 52^ E., 15 leagues
distant, true bearings. He states that all the drift-wood in these northern parts
was fir.

Golovnine Bay, on the West side of Cape Darby, was discovered in 1821
by Capt. Khramtschenko. The natives here term it Tatrhik. Its opening is
limited on the East by Cape Darby, and on the West by Cape Kamennoi, or
Jiovki/, lying about 9 miles W. by S. of the first. The latter cape was so called
from a flat and bare rock close to it. These two capes are high and steep, but

GOLOVNINE BAY— POINT RODNEY.

696

Cape Darby is the highest. The bay extends first to N.N.W., and then to
AV.N.W. At 3 miles to the northward of Cape Kamennoi there is a bed of
gravel across it, running off to the East from the West side. At 2 miles from
the East side of the bay, which is opposite to it, it is terminated b" a reef of
uncovered rocks, which, at a distance, is extremely like an artificial pier or
mole, whence it is called ihe Stone Mole, or Kamennaia Pristan. Beyond this
the bay is very shallow.

There is anchorage in all parts of the outer bay as far as the Stone Mole :
bring it to bear from West to W.S.W., true; within this the depth rapidly
decreases. The bay is perfectly clear throughout ; but, as it is open to winds
from the South, the anchorage is not without some danger from this cause.
AVater may be procured from a small river, and on the West shore drift-wood
may be collected.

The time of high water, the establishment, is G*" 23"". At full moon it rises
3 feet 8 inches.

The inner bay communicates with the outer by a narrow gullet. At its hoad
a large river discharges by five mouths, which makes the water of the Lay
fresh.

Aziak, or ^yak Island, called by Cook Sledge Island, on account of a sledge
found by him on it, is 10 or 12 miles S.E. J E. of Cape Rodney, and is in
about Int. 64" 30', long. 166° 7'. M. Tebenkotf thinks it is a mile in circuit,
and he describes it as a rock rising 642 ft. above the water, A low point pro-
jects on its North side ; and, on the East, a village stands on the slope of the
rugged coast. The island may be approached on all sides. The anchorage is
bad to the East, the bottom being of large stones. It is better to the North,
near the point, although the current runs here 3 knots, but the bottom is much
better.

Oukivok, or King Island of Capt. Cook, is a bare rock 756 ft. in height, not
more than a mile in circuit, and cliffs on all sides, with deep water close-to.
On the summits of the cliffs are a number of columnar stones. There is a
village, the houses excavated in the rocks, on a rugged slope, at 150 or 200 ft.
above the sea. The inhabitants appeared glad to receive a visit from the people
of the U.S. steamer Corwin, and seemed to be in a prosperous condition. They
live almost entirely by walrus and seal hunting.

POINT RODNEY is a low point to the N.W. J W. of Sledge Island, and
being low, and the water shallow, it is difficult to land. From the beach to
the foot of the mountains there is a plain about 2 miles wide, covered with
lichens and grass, upon which Capt. Beechey observed several herds of rein-
deer feeding ; some narrow lakes extend several miles along the coast. Upon
the beach is a greater abundance of drift-wood than is found on other parts of
the foast. About 2 miles from the coast the country becomes mountainous, and
far inland rises to peaked hills of great height, which are covered with peren-
nial snow.

;, IHI

696

BEIIRING SEA.

i. !

* r
li

i- I

PORT CLARENCE, which was explored and named by Captain Beechey.
August, 1827,* is 30 miles to the north-westward of Point Rodney. It was
passed unnoticed by Cook in his passage through the strait, but this is not sur-
prising, from the character of the land forming it.

Point Spencer, the North extremity of a low spit of land, projecting about
10 miles from the coast, forms the southern protection of this spacious harbour,
and is in lat. 65^ 16' 40" N., long. 166^ 47' 50" W. It here forms aright angle,
having a channel about 2 miles wide between its extremity and the northern
shore. This southern side of Port Clarence is a low diluvial formation, covered
with grass, and intersected by narrow channels and lakes. It projects from a
range of cliffs which appear to have been once upon the coast, and sweeping
round, terminates in the low shingly point before named, Point Sjjcncer.

Near Point Spencer the beach has been forced up, by some extraordinary
pressure, into ridges, of which the outer one, 10 or 12 ft. above the sea, is the
highest. Upon and about these ridges there was a great quantity of drift
timber, but more on the inner side of the point than on the outer.

The northern and eastern shores of Port Clarence slope from the mountains
to the sea, and are occasionally terminated by cliffs. The soil is covered with
a thick coating of moss, among which are a few plants. The valleys and hol-
lows are all filled with dwarf willow or birch.

ORANTLET HARBOUR forms an inner harbour to the extensive and ex-
cellent bay just described. The channel into it from the outer harbour is
extremely narrow, the entrance being contracted by two sandy spits ; but the
wiitcr is deep, and in one part there is not less than 12 fathoms. At the upper
end of the harbour is a second strait, about 300 yards in width, formed between
steep cliffs ; but tliis channel, too, is contracted by sandy points. This strait
communicates with a large inland lake. Capt. Beechey found three Esquimaux
villages here.

" These two ports," says Capt. Beechey, " situated so near Behring Strait,
may, at some future time, be of great importance to navigation, as they will be
found particularly useful by vessels which may not wish to pass the strait in
bad weather. To the outer harbour, which for convenience and security sur-
j)asses any other near Behring Strait with which we are acquainted, I attached
tlie name of Port Clarence, in honour of His Most Gracious Majesty, then
Luke of Clarence. To the inner, which is well adapted to the purjjoses of re-
pair, and is sufficiently deep to receive a frigate, provided she lands her guns,
which can be conveniently done upon the sandy spit at the entrance, I gave
the name of Grautley Harbour, in compliment to Lord Grantley."

It is high water in the port, on full and change, at 4" 25"".

Point Jackson, named, like Point Spencer, from a distinguished naval officer,

• Port Clarence was for u long time proviously known to tho Uusiiianii ua Kaviayak Bay
L*u( they did not know that it contained ita ozcellent port. — Liitke.

CAPE PRINCE OF WALES.

697

forms the North side of the entrance to Port Clarence. Off it the water is more
shallow than usual.

The harbour has frequently afforded refuge and shelter to our ships since
Admiral Beechey surveyed it. The Franklin Search Expedition of 1848 —
1854, which went vi& Behring Strait, made it more or less their head-quarters.
H.M.S. Enterprise, Capt. Collinson, came here in 1851. The Plover, Capt.
Moore, and afterwards Capt. Maguirc, was stationed here as a reserve or store
ship to the other vessels engaged in the search in 1851 — 1853. H.M.S. Rattle-
make, Commander Trollope, also wintered here October 5th, 1 853 — June, 1864 ;
■0 that this remote and sequestered spot has received much attention.

Grantley Harbour, after this, sprang suddenly into short-lived importance in
1866-7, as it was the spot selected for the landing of the Behring Strait electric
cable from the Asiatic shore. During the winter of 1866-7, Capt. Libby, of
the Western Union Telegraph Service, wintered here, and spent the summer,
with 40 men, leaving a good station and other houses when the enterprise was
abandoned. It is a central point at which the natives of Kotzebue and Norton
Sound, and the neighbouring country, meet the Tchuktchis from the Siberion
coast. Many whalers annually visit this harbour for trading purposes, and
Mr. Whympcr says that it is possible that a permanent white settlement might
be formed in this remote place. It is a good spot to winter in, but supplies
from the resources of the country are very uncertain.

Cape York, named after the Duke of York, is a bold promontory, and near
it there is probably a river, called Toup-nut by the natives. From hence to
Cape Prince of Wales the coast is of quite a different character to that to the
northward of the latter, being bounded by steep rocky cliffs, and broken by
deep valleys, while the other is low swampy ground.

CAPE PRINCE OF WALES is the westernmost extreme of America. This
celebrated promontory is the western termination of a peaked mountain, nearly
2,600 ft. high, which, being connected with the main by low ground, at a dis-
tance has the appearance of being isolated. The promontory is bold, and re-
markable by a number of ragged points and large fragments of rock lying upon
the ridge which connects the cape with the peak. About a mile to the north-
ward of the cape some low laud begins to project from the foot of the mountain,
taking first a northerly, and then a north-easterly direction, to Schischmareff
Inlet.

The natives have a village upon the low land near the cape, called Eidannoo,
and they are reported to be the worst people on the coast, having several times
attempted to seize the vessels of the traders. About 14 miles inland from
Eidannoo there is a remarkable conical hill, often visible when the mountain
tops are covered, which, being well fixed, will be found useful a' such times by
ships passing through the strait. At 12 miles farther inland the country be-
comes mountainous, and ia remarkable for its sharp ridges. The altitude of
North Pacific, 4 V

'^< I

898

BEHRING SEA.

: I h

?. .

i' ii

one of the pea^a, which is nearly the highest in the range, is 2,596 ft. These
mountains, being covered with snow, when the Blossom was here (August,
. 1827), gave the country a very wintry aspect.

Off the cape is a very dangerous shoal, appearing to extend 6 or 7 miles to
the N. by W. J W. from it, upon which the sea breaks heavily. It takes the
direction of the current, and is extremely dangerous, in consequence of the
water shoaling so suddenly, and having deep water within it. The Blossom
was nearly lost on it in 1827. The whalers report that this shoal is extending.

BEHBINO STRAIT separates America from Asia. A vessel sailing in mid-
channel can see both continents at once. At its narrowest part, between Cape
Prince of Wales and the East Cape of Asia, it is about 49 miles wide, but in
jnid-channel are the Diomede Islands. It is, comparatively, very shallow, not
exceeding from 20 to 30 fathoms in depth, and much of it less than this, so
that it will not admit of any deep floating icebergs to drift southwards. On
this account it was considered that a submarine telegraph cable, between
Grantley Harbour and Cape Choukotskoi, on the Siberian shore, would be
quite safe from any injury from this cause. In passing through the strait, the
officers of the Corwin noticed that the water was of a brownish tint.

The DIOMEDE ISLANDS are two small islands and a rock occupying a
conspicuous geographical position, as they lie between the nearest points of
the two great continents of Asia and America, being thus in the very narrowest
portion of Behring Strait.

They have been the subject of some slight dispute as to their real number.
Our celebrated Capt. Cook places three islands here in the middle of the strait.
Kotzebue imagined that he saw a fourth. The subject was set at rest by Capt.
Beechey, in the Blossom, in 1826. They are three in number.

The south-eastern of the group is a high square rock, almost inaccessible,
named by Capt. Beechey Fainvay Rock, and by the native who drew a chart
of this region, Oo-ghe-e-ak. It is an excellent guide to the eastern channel,
which is the widest and best. The central island was named, after the Admiral,
Krusenstern Island, and by the above-mentioned authority, Igna-look. It is
an island with perpendicular cliffs and a flat surface. The third, or north-
western one, which is the largest, was named by Capt. Beechey, after Kotzebue's
supposed discovery, Ratmanoff Island, and Noo-narbook by the native. It is
3 miles long, high to the southward, and terminates, in the opposite direction,
in low, rocky cliff's, with small rocky points off them.

They were visited by Mr. W. H. Dall, in Soptembor, 1880, and he describes
these islands as granite domes, rising abruptly from the water. There were
two villages, one on each island, the inhabitants chiefly subsisting on the innu-
merable birds. The boundary line between Eussia and Alaska passes through
th« channel between the two islands, in long. 168" 38' 5' W. The current
near these islands was reversed by the tide, the rate not exceeding 3 knots,
running diagonally across the stroit.

M3~~

KOTZEDUE SOUND— CAPE LISBURNE.

699

From Cape Prince of Wales the coast trends to the northward, the water
being shallow just to the North of it, as before stated.

The coast itself is low, with a ridge of sand extending along it. The land
behind is marshy in the summer, and extends without anything remarkable for
35 miles to the narrow and intricate entrance of Schischmareff Inlet, which
has not been explored. From hence to the north-eastward the coast it low
and swampy, with a ridge of sand in front of it, terminating at Cape Espenburg.

Cape Espenburg, or Spanhery, about 30 miles from Schischmareff Inlet,
and the western point of entrance to Kotzebue Sound, is a low flat point with
some high sand-hills on it. Near the end of the cape is a native village. A
bar of sand is stated to extend nearly 2 miles off this coast.

KOTZEBUE SOUND is a large indentation to the eastward of Cape Espen-
burg, with a moderate depth of water throughout, from 5 to 1 2 fathoms. At
its head is Eschscholtz Basin, extending for 10 miles to the eastward from its
entrance, the depth gradually decreasing from 4 fathoms to 1 fathom, where
the Buckland liiver rims into it. At the entrance of the basin lies Chamisso
Island, in lat 66° 13' 11" N., long. 161° 46' W., rising to a height of 231 ft.,
and having a cross on its summit, bearing the names of the Blossom, Plover,
&c. It is about IJ mile long, and has several streams from which water may
be obtained in the early part of summer, but later in the season the streams
become dry. The land about this part of the ^ound is generally characterized
by rounded hills from 600 to 1,000 ft. high, with suall lakes and rivers.

Between Chamisso and the South end of Choi Is Peninsula, 2 miles to the
northward, vessels can enter the basin with a fair wind, avoiding the shoal
extending about a mile off the peninsula. Within the isknd, and half a mile
from the shore of the peninsula, there is anchorage in 5 fathcns. good holding
ground.

From Choris Peninsula the coast trends 13 miles noi th- westward to Cape
Blossom, and here commence some shoals which line the coast to the west-
ward, extending as far as 8 miles off, and the soundings give very short notice
of its proximity. Hotham Inlet, off which this shoal lies, is a broad sheet of
water extending 30 or 40 miles to the south-eastward. At its mouth and at
Cape Blossom are the principal trading places of the natives of thif» part.

From hence the coast trends away to the westward, and becomes mor«
barren. In lat. 68° 7' 45" N., long. 165° 54' W., is Cape Thompson, a bold
headland, where the Cortvin procured an abundance of good water, but the
anchorage is bad. About 28 miles beyond this is Hope Point, with shallow
water off it, and intersected by lakes and creeks. Capt. Beechey, in passing
along this coast, found a northerly surface-current of li^ to 3^ miles per hour
in July and August.

CAPE LISBURNE, of Captain Cook, is about 38 miles northward of Hope
Point, and rises to a height of 849 ft. Here the coast turns to the eastward
nearly at right angles, and becomes lower. About 30 miles from the cape, and

I li

1 :'

f /•,

1 i

700

ICY OK POLAR SEA.

in lat. 68' 50', long. 164" 65', are some deposits of coal, sevcrnl tons of which
were shipped by the Cortoin, and found to be of fair quality, very similar to
the Seattle coal. There is good anchorage, with a southerly wind, within haif
a mile of the shore, in 4 fathoms. The locality is well marked by a peculiar
headland about 400 ft. high.

From the rugged limestone mountains at Cape Lisbume there is a uniform
descent to the rounded hills of sandstone at Cape Beaufort. The latter is
situated in the depth of a great bay between Cape Lisbume and Icy Cape, and
is the last place where the hills come down to the sea. At Cape Beaufort are
some narrow veins of coal. From hence the coast trends more to the north-
ward, and becomes fronted by a narrow strip of shingle or sand, having a
lake within it extending for above 120 miles. Drift-wood was everywhere
abundant.

loy Cape, the farthest point reached by Captain Cook, is very low. Extend-
ing about 6 miles off it are Blossom Shoals, consisting of several successive
banks, lying parallel with the shore, with from 2 to 4 fathoms over them.
Vessels rounding the cape in thick weather should not come within a depth of
10 fathoms.

From Icy Cape the coast continues in one low unbroken line to the N.N.E.,
and is a flat or slightly rolling stretch of Arctic bog. The beach abounds with
coal and drift-wood. At 40 miles from Icy Cape is a spacious opening or lake,
named Wainwriffkt Inlet, having a very narrow and winding entrance channel,
with only 9 or 10 ft. water in it. Several native villages we*"^ seen on the
coast beyond this. At 16 miles from this inlet is Cape Bt ~/ier, where the
coast turns more to the eastward. At 18 miles beyond it is Point Franklin,
the outer point of a chain of low sandy islands named Seahorse Islands. A
shoal, upon which the barque Helen Mar struck, extends 2 miles off the N.E.
side of the cape. Capt. Hooper, U.S. steamer Corwin, reports that the bay
within these islands, named Peard Bay, is entirely surrounded by shallow
water. At Ooglaamie, near Point Franklin, the United States authorities have
established a meteorological station. The coast from Cape Franklin to Cape
Smyth, a distance of about 40 miles, is a succession of clay cliffs from 25 to
75 ft. in height, with a shingle or sandy beach. The land in the rear is low
and flat.

POINT BABROW, 16 miles beyond Cape Smyth, is the N.W. extreme of
America, in about lat. 71' 23' 31" N., long. 156' 15' W. It is a low spit of
land making out about 6 or 8 miles from the regular coast-line, having a native
village near its extremity. A shoal of 3^ fathoms is reported to lie 6 miles
N. by E. of the point.

ICY or POLAK SEA. — This has been, and is, a vast field for the enterprise
of the American whalers. The barrier of ice, extending from the shores of
America to those of Asia, possesses all the peculiarities incident to the similar

HERALD ISLAND— WRANOELL ISLAND.

701

I of which
■similar to
Irithin hait'
peculiar

la uniform
le latter is
I Cape, and
laufort are
|he north-
iviug a
rerywhere

Extend-
Bucoessive
ver them.

depth of

e N.N.E.,
unds with
g or lake,
e channel,
!n on the
vhere the
Franklin,
lands. A
the N.E.
t the bay
Y shallow
ities have
I to Cape
:om 25 to
ar is low

:treme of
T spit of
; a native
) 6 miles

aterprise
bores of
I aimilar

natural features in other regions. It varies in its extent, or rather its encroach-
ments, on the open sea to the southward of it in different seasons, and therefore
no absolute description can be given of its limits. Icy Cape, on the American
shore, would appear to be a frequent limit to its southern side.

The ice-pack seldom moves more than a few miles off shore between Icy
Cape and Point Barrow, and is likely to close in at any time. A vessel going
North of Icy Cape should sight the ice-pack frequently, keeping close watch of
its movements, and in the event of its starting inshore should get below Blossom
Shoals as soon as possible. — Capl. Hooper, U.S.S. Corwin, 1880.

There is one feature of this sea which might appear somewhat remarkable,
and that is its shallowness. There is anchorage almost all over it. The depth
varies from 20 to 30 fathoms, seldom exceeding the latter ; the bottom com-
posed of sand, mud, and stones. This, therefore, simplifies the navigation
during the few weeks that it may be said to be open to navigation. It has
been traversed in almost every portion ; and, with the exception of Herald
Shoal, discovered by Capt. Kellett, no permanent danger appears to exist in
the open space between the shores of the two continents. Herald Shoal, upon
which 7 fathoms was the least depth found, lies in about lut. 70° 20' N., long.
171° 6' W. Captain Kellett was of opinion that much shoalcr water existed
upon it.

Herald Island, discovered by Capt. Kellett, H.M.S. Herald, in 1849, is
described as being about 4^ miles long. East and West, a solid mass of granite,
about 900 ft. high, almost inaccessible. It is in about lat. 71° 20' N., long.
175° 22' W., and was taken possession of in the name of H.M. Queen Victoria.
Plover Island lies about 23 miles to the S.S.W.

WBANGELL ISLAND, which had previously been considered as part of
an Arctic continent, was discovered to be an island by Lieut. Berry, U.S.S.
Rodgers, 1881. It is about 70 miles long East and West, and 35 miles broad,
including the sand-spits making out 6 to 10 miles from the North and South
coasts. A range of high hills extends completely around the island near the
coast-line, and a lower range extends from East to West through the centre.
One peak near the centre. Berry Peak, was found to be 2,500 ft. high. Several
streams were found, and a few bears were seen near the coast.

On August 25th, at 10 a.m., the Rodgers sighted Cape Hawaii, the S.E.
point, and soon after the ice surrounding the island was encountered, seemingly
a dense pack. Skirting the edge of the pack a lead was discovered at 4 p.m.
which was followed, and at 10 p.m., after having passed through about 1
miles of ice, the vessel anchored in 6 fathoms about half a mile from the shore.

Bodgers Harbour. — This small but excellent harbour, where the Rodgers
was anchored for 19 days, is 7 or 8 miles westward of Cape Hawaii, and is
formed by a bight in the coast-line, just East of a projecting promontory. It is
a little more than 200 yards in extent either way, with a depth of from 3 to .1^
fathoms in the centre. The observation spot, near the western extremity of

l^It

702

BKIIRINO SEA.

tho low sandy neck on the South side, is in Int, 70° 57' N., long. 178° 10' W.
The rise and fall of the tide was 3 ft. ; the flood tide sets to the southward an i
westward.

s (

Having thus described the shores of Alaska, and the adjacent islands in the
Sea of Behring, it remains to describe the detached islands now belonging to
the United States, which are found in it. In this we have derived much in-
formation from the voyages of Capts. Liitke, Cook, Billings, Kotzebue, Beechey,
and other navigators, including the reports of more recent American and other
observers.

ST. LAWRENCE ISLAND, called Engtiae by the natives, is the northern-
most of those which Ho in the open sea, and was discovered by Behring on St.
Lawrence's day, August 10th, 1728. He stated that he passed by it without
observing anything particular on it, except the cottages of some fishermen.

Captain Cook gave it the name of Gierke Island. It was seen by Captain
Kotzebue, who e.xamined the East and S.E. sides, but did not observe the union
of the East and West portions.

From this cause, beyond doubt, the islands Macarius, St. Stephen, St.
Theodore, and St. Abraham of Lieut. Syndt, are only the higher hills, which
are all that ate seen of St. Lawrence at a distance. Cook thus named a part of
ito extreme Anderson Island.

In 1 828 Capt. SchischmarefF made a detailed examination of its shores, with
the exception of that part examined by his former commander, Capt. Kotzebue,
in 1817. On the S.W. side is a small optn bay, where the officers of the
Burick landed ; this spot is readily recognised by the small rocky island in its
vicinity.

From these and later examinations it appears that the island is about 85
miles in extent E. i S. and W. J N., with an average breadth of 20 miles.
The N.W. point, to which Admiral Krusenstern gave the name of the Russian
surveyor, -Se/iMoAmare/ /'om<, is in lat. 63° 62' N., long. 171° 30' W. The
N.E. point of the islond is in lat. 63° 15', long. 168° 36', the coast between the
two being much indented.

The islet which Cook saw near this latter point, in about lat. 63° 6', long.
168° 45', is composed, according to Kotzebue, of two islets: Schischmareffsavs
there are three. The inhabitants call the eastern part of the coast Kaegalak,
and the western Chiboko. The eastern point of the island is named Cape
Anderson, and here an historic doubt existed.

A shoal of 11 fathoms was found by the Blossom precisely in the situation
assigned to a small island named by Cook after his respected surgeon, Mr.
Anderson. This island had never been seen after, and the veracity of the great
navigator had been in consequence impeached. Capt. Beechey, however, recti-

) 1

«>euMU MUHiiiM

ST. LAWRENCE ISLAND-ST. MAITIIKW ISLAND.

703

fied this error, having found that it wu intended for the East end ot St.
Lawrence Island.

The inland is inhabited by a few Esquimuu . families, and Capt. Hooper, of
the U.S. steamer Corwin, 1880, states that the niitivcs are the best looking
found in the vicinity. The men are strongly addicted to rum, and will barter
anything they possess to procure it, and so long n.. it lasts will do nothing but
drink aud fight. Their number has decreased of late years, consequent upon
intemperance, sickness, and starvation.

The Swedish steamer Veya anchored, in July, 1879, in on open boy on the
N.W. side of the island. Professor NordenskiiJUl states thut it is very dangerous
to stay long here with a vessel, for there is no known haven on its const. In
consequence of the heavy swell, when the sea is clear of ice, it is diificult to
land on the island.

ST. MATTHEW ISLAND was discovered by Lieut. Syndt, in August,
1766. Captain Cook, ignorant of this circumstance, considered it as a new
discovery in 1778, nnd called it Gore Island. He only saw the S.E. part from
a distance, and probably only made out the small island, now named Hall,
lying separately to the North, which the Russian promychlcnniks call Morjovi
or Morse Island. Since Cook's time it has been seen by several Russian navi-
gators. Saryt8che£P anchored here ; Schischmareff passed close to it. On the
Russian charts it has always borne its original name, Matvoi, or St. Matthew ;
' ut to preserve the name by Cook, Liitke named the West extremity of the
island Cape Gore.

In 1874 it was visited by Mr. H. W. Elliott and Lieut. Maynard, U.S.N.,
who found the island tenanted by large numbers of polar bears.

St. Matthew Island lies W. by N. i N. and E. by S. i S., and in a direct
line is about 22 miles lonf;, and 3.]^ to 4^ miles in breadth. Its shores consist
partly of high rocks, partly of low land. The S.E. extremity of the island,
most justly called by Cook Cape Upright, rises out of the water like a wall to
the height of 1,400 ft., and this is the highest point of the island. It falls
suddenly to the N.W., forming a very low and very narrow isthmus; not being
seen beyond 4 or 5 miles, it causes Cape Upright, even at this distance, to appear
as a separate island. Beyond this isthmus the island increases in breadth and
elevation, and then again contracts, forming another isthmus, similar to the
first, at 9 miles from it, then a third, from which formation St. Matthew at a
distance appears like several islands. The S.E. or outer point of Cape Upright
is in lat. 60" 18', long. 172° 4' W.

About 8 miles W. by S. J S. from this cape is Sugarloaf Cape, thus named
from an extremely remarkable mountain which surmounts it. This mountain
is 1,438 ft. in height, and on every side appears as an irregular cone, the only
one on the island. Between Cape Sugarloaf and Cape Upright are two bays,
entirely unprotected, surrounded by low shores. On the North side of the
Sugarloaf is a simila. bay, and an isthmus similar to that connecting Cnpc

1;:

704

BEHRINQ SEA.

+'!

i Pi!

Upright. From this towards the W.N.W., as far M the West extreme, Cape
Qore, are almost perpendicular rocks, intersected in many parts by raTines.
Caps Gore terminates to seaward io a low clifT, and off it are some rocky islets.
At 3 miles from the North end of the island, on the coast quite by itself, is a
remarkable rock, of a rhomboidal form.

The North point of the island, named by Capt. Liitko after Capt. SarytschefTs
Tessel, is in lat. 60° 38', long. 172° 41', It is steep, but much lower than
Cape Upright. The eastern shore of the island much resembles the opposite
one. There are corresponding bays on either side, which form the nanow
isthmuses.

Hall or Motjovi Island is steep on every part except the S.W., and is
separated from the N.W. end of St. Matthew by Sarycheff Strait, less than 3
miles in width. Its North extreme, in lat. 60° 34',, long. 172° 42', equals Cape
Upright in elevation, and much resembles it. The South end extendi in a low
point to the S.E.

Pinnacle Island, justly so named by Cook, lies 16 miles S.W. | W. from
Cape Upright. Two sides, nearly perpendicular, unite at the elevation of 990
feet in a pointed crest, with a number of pointed rocks on it. At the steep
S.W. extremity are some isolated rocks ; and the N.E. point terminates in an
entire range of connected and extniordinary pointed rocks.

The shores of St. Matthew are clear, and the depth very great. There might
not be great difficulty in landing in the bays in fine weatber. The island is
not inhabited, and is scarcely capable of being so. The formation of the island
is volcanic.

i h'

i !

PRYBILOV ISLANDS.

These are a group of two volcanic rocky islands, and two small islets, dis-
covered by M. Prybilov in 1786 ; this officer was under Capt. Billings' expedi-
tion, in 1790. At first Ihey were called Noty (new); then Lebedevski, from
the name of the owner of the vessel which discovered them. M. Chelekoff
culled them Zouboff; more recently they have been called Kolovy (sea-bears),
and Severny (North), from the immense quantity of sea animals found there,
and their position relative to Ounalushka. Admiral S&ry tscheff has placed them
on his chart under the name of the oificer who discovered them, as here re-
peated. They are most commonly called in the colonies here Ot(rovki, the
Little Islands.

They are at present noted for the immense quantities of fur-seals, walrus,
&c., which frequent their shores. In 1870 the United States Government
granted a twenty years lease of these inlands to the Alaska Commercial Com-
pany, the latter having the exclusive right, and being entitled to take annually
not over 100,000 seal skins. The seals annually begin to arrive here early in
May, for breeding purposes, and in July, some parts of the shores, known a«

fllwiuiwiiniMi 1 1 "

jj^- ^ ^f^'j3f;jgs;i;;.7pa=is ^!tuzi«jt iaaaa»9!mua^ •«

PIIYBILOV ISLANDS— ST. GKORGE ISLAND.

70S

rookcnea, are covered with hundreds of thousands of these animals. In
October they begin to depart, and by the beginning of January they have all
di»appeared. They are most carefully protected, only the young males being
taken for their skins.*

The inhabitants are some of them descendants of the Aleutians brought here
by the Russians, and are all comfortably off, the Company having provided
them with decent houses, two churches, schools, hospital, &c.

The climate of these islands is as humid and disagreeable as possible. Ver-
dure does not show itself until the end of April or May. Dense fogs prevail in
summer, the atmosphere is rarely clear, and the sun is still more rarely to be
seen. Snow falls in October. In December North winds bring the ice, which
remitins here frequently until May. The lowest average temperature of a
usual winter ranges from 22° to 26^ F. The summer temperature ranges be-
tween 35° and 64".

It is sometimes difBcult to find these " small islands " in the condensed fogs
which prevail here. At times the land may be seen from the mast-head, when
below it is very thick.

A great many attempts have been made to raise a few of the hardy vegeta-
bles, but with the exception of lettuce, turnips, and radishes on St. Paul
Island, nothing has been or can be done. It is also next to impossible tu keep
cattle, sheep, or poultry, during the winter. No species of wood grows ou
the islands, but drift-wood is found on their eastern parts. Fresh water is
procured from lakes or rivulets.

ST. GEORGE ISLAND, the southernmost island, ia a little over 10 miles
in length. East and West, and about 4J miles across where widest. It rises
sheer and precipitous from the sea all round, except at three spots where there
is landing, at Garden Cove on the East coast, at the village on the North coast,
and at Zapadnie Bay on the S.W. side, otF each of which there is anchorage.
'i"he loftiest summit, southward of the village, rises to a height of 930 ft.
Capt. Liitke says the aspect of the S.E. coast is very monotonous, only one
point rising above the rest on its level surface. The surface of the N.W. part
is perfectly flat, and is covered with gi-as-i. Capt. Beechey states that the
island consists of two hills united by moderately high ground, and is higher
than St. Paul Island.

The coast in general is clear, and has a depth of 16 to 20 fathoms around it;
a stony kelp bed at Zapadnie, and another eastward of the village, being the
only hindrances to a ship's sailing boldly round the island.

• Most valuable nnd exhaustive accounts of tlie3e isknds, and thoir marine visitors, will
he found hi two Reports, by Mr. H. W. Elliott, ob the Seal Islands of Alaska, publiahed
at WiibhiDglon, U. S., one in 1873, and i,he other in 1881. Both theie most interesting
Reports are embellished with numerous illu:it.rat40D».

North Pacific, 4 j^

BEHEING SEA.

The village, consisting of about two dozen houses, and containing 92 inabit-
ants in 1880, is situated near the centre of the North coast. Here the coast
slopes inward, and is covered with a thick herbage. A small cove between
the rocks serves to shelter the baidars, and you may even anchor there in
South and S.E. winds. At a mile off there is 17 fathoms, black sandy bottom;
farther in there is anchorage in 10 fathoms, but the steamer is frequently un-
able to venture in for weeks at a time. The village is stated to be in lat.
56° 39' 16" N., long. 169° 19' W.

A shoal of 5 fathoms, marked by kelp, is reported to lie 13 to 15 miles
north-eastward of the East end of the island. It was seen in 1 824 by Capt,
Chramtschenko.

ST. PAUL ISLAND lies 34 miles N.W. i W. of St. George, which is 183
miles N.W. J W. from the N.W. point of Ounalashka, the channel between
the islands being free from danger. It is about 13 miles in length between its
N.E. and S.W. points, and about 6 miles across where widest. The eastern,
southern, and northern parts of the island are low, and the coasts sloping and
sandy ; but the West side is hilly, and terminates to seaward in a high steep
cape, which is distinguished by a remarkable height surrounding it. There is
on the East side of the island another volcanic hill equally remarkable, 550 ft.
high, and near the centre is another of the same elevation as that at the West
end, viz., 600 ft. Capt. Beechey says that St. Paul is distinguished by several
small peaks, which have the appearance of craters.

The northern and western shores are said to be free from danger up to
within half a mile, but extending off some of the projecting points on the
southern and eastern shores are several large rocky reefs.

The island is extended to the southward by a low bed of sandy gravel, on
the West side of which is the village and the Company's buildings. There are
about eighty houses here, the population amounting to 298 in 1880, 14 of
whom where whites. Off the village, either East or West of it, is the best
place for anchorage in these islands, but with southerly winds a vessel must
leave. Between this and the West end of the island the coast curves into a
bay, and forms some small coves, in one of which there is said to be tolerably
good shelter for small vessels. The greatest rise of tide is said to be not over
4 feet.

Reef Point, the southern extremity of the island, in lat. 57° 8' N., long.
170° 12' W., is about a mile from the village, and has a reef stretching about
half a mile south-westward of it. At 5 miles S.W. J S. from Reef Point, and
about 7 miles S. by E. J E. from the West end of the island, is Bobrovi or
Sea- Otter Island, a small bluffy island, about 3 miles in circuit, rising in a
precipitous form from the sea, except on its northern side where it is low. On
its S.E. extremity is a curious crater hill. A reef extends northward and
south-westward of the N.W. point. Some hidden dangers are stated to lie
between this and St. Paul.

f -fsiMi- y .^-^-^^*-* ''

THE COAST OF ASIA.

10l

About 5 miles E.8.E. from the N.E. point of St. Paul, which is surrounded
by a reef, is a low and rocky islet named Morj'ovi, Morses, or Whale Island,
over which the sea washes in storms. It is much frequented by sea-fowl, and
bears N.E. i N. about 1 4^ miles from Otter Island.

A reef is marked on the chart as lying 10 miles West of the S.W. point of
St. Paul, and another at 3 miles S. by W. from the same point. At 12 miles
to the E.N.E. of its N.E. end a bank is stated to uncover at low water. A rock
is also reported to lie about 90 miles N.E. by E. i E. from the same point.

15 miles
by Capt.

THE COAST OP ASIA.

The merit of discovery of this coast is due to Behring, as we have repeatedly
remarked previously. It had been slightly and cursorily examined by few sub-
sequent to that great navigator's first voyage until Captain Cook saw it, and
first declared its true character. Captains Clerke and King passed along it in
the following year. Capt. Kotzebue in the Rurick, Capts. Billings, Sarytscheff,
and Wrangel, also added slightly to our knowledge. But all these authorities
collectively gave a very vague and imperfect notion of the whole. All this,
however, was obviated by the surveyi;.g expedition under Captain (afterwards
Ilear-Admiral) Liitke, whose excellent and ample work leaves little to desire.
This expedition, which left St. Petersburg in August, 1826, consisted of two
corvettes, the Mollcr, under Capt. Stanikowitch, and the Siniavine, under Capt.
Liitke. The operations of the latter are our present object. After making many
excellent observations in the North Pacific, he proceeded to Avatcha Bay, and
thence surveyed the greater portion of the coasts of Kamchatka and Eastern
Asia to the northward, as far as the East Cape of Behring Strait. The account
of this voyage has furnished us with most of the subsequent particulars.

The Tchuktchis, the inhabitants of Eastern Asia, may demand a short notice
here. Of all the Asiatic races inhabiting Siberia these are the only ones that
have not submitted to the tribute of peltries demanded by the Russians.

The Tchuktchis inhabit the north-eastern part of Asia, extending from
Tchaun Bay to Behring Strait in one direction, and in the other from the Anadyr,
and the upper coasts of the Aniui, to the Polar Sea. To the South are the
Koriaks, and to the West the Tchuwanzes and Jukahirs of the Aniui. The
Tchuktchis, though still in a great measure a nomad race, have less of the
characteristics which usually accompany such a mode of life than the wander-
ing Tunguses ; they are more covetous and more saving than belongs to the
character of the genuine nomad races. They are disgraced by the most shame-
less licentiousness. Some of them possess large herds of reindeer, which are
driven from place to place in search of pasturage, and are also used for riding.
At times the meat may be procured in abundance, and cheaply. The wares
most in demand are large sewing and darning needles, pots, large knives, axes,
Buws, and other tools, liuen and woollen shirts, neckerchiefs, tobacco, and sugar.

'-'M

3<f:<. ;4,':

!1 I'

708

ICY OR POLAU SEA.

n ■ i

* I

^.i!

1' i ■

■ : ■ : 1

■■ . '

1 'i

)■ *

rhey have been found to be more friendly than earlier writers have given them
credit for, and were serviceable to Captain Moore when he anchored here in
1848-9, and also to visitors in more recent times.*

CAFE NORTH of Captain Cook, or Ir-Kaipie according to Admiral von
Wrangel, is the most northern point of the Asiatic coast made by Captain
Cook, and is in lat. 68" 65' 16" N., long. 179° 57' E., according to Admiral von
Wrangel. The coast here is similar to that of the opposite American coast,
low land near the sea, with elevated land farther back. There is a village here.

Koliutohin Island, in lat. 67° 27' N., long. 174° 10' W. (South point), is
about 4 or 5 miles in circuit, with a steep rocky coast, about 3 leagues from
the main. Southward of it is Kolitttchin Bay, a large indentation in the coast.

Eastward of this the Swedish steamer Vega, which left Karlskrona June 22,
1878, and had accomplished the North-East Passage to this part, in one season,
anchored in about 5 fathoms, 1,400 yards from the land, on September 28th,
1878, off the village of Pitlekaj, and was here suddenly frozen in, in lat.
67° 4' 49" N., long. 173° 23' 2" W., though open water was seen a few miles
to the eastward for some days after. The vessel was released July 18th, 1879,
and then proceeded for Europe vi& Behring Strait. The natives were very
friendly. A full account of this successful expedition will be found in the work
mentioned in the note below.

CAPE SERDZE KAMEN, in lat. 67° 0', long. 171° 55', was the limit of
Behring's voyage, August 15th, 1728. Captain Cook describes it as a moder-
ately lofty promontory, with some elevated rocks upon it, and a steep rocky
cliff facing the sea. To the eas >vard of it the coast is high and bold, but to
the westward it is low. There are two vill&ges in the bay westward of it.

EAST CAFE, the extremity of Asia, has been mentioned before as forming,
with Cape Prince of Wales, the westernmost point of America, the narrowest
part of Behring Strait. x>. is a peninsula of considerable height, joined to the
continent by a very low, and, to appearance, narrow neck of land. It shows a
steep rocky cliff against the sea, from which it rises to a height of 2,100 ft.,
and off the extreme point are some rocks like spires. It is in lat. 66° 3' N.,
long. 169° 44' W. From its general appearance it might be taken for an island,
and this doubtless occasioned an error in the number of the Dioraede Islands
lying off it. Professor Nordenskiold proposes to name this cape Zhschnev,
after the Cossack who, in 1648, made a voyage from the River Lena, through
Behring Strait, to the mouth of the Anadir. From its summit the American
coast is plainly visible. On its North side is the village of UMle.

ST. LAWRENCE BAT, about 33 miles to the S. by W. of East Cape, was
Bo named by Cook, he having anchored in it on St. Lawrence's day, August 1 0,

• Further particulars of the natives will be found in Mr. W. H. Dall's valuable work,
"Alaska and its Resources," and also in Professor A. E. Nordenskiold's "Voyage of ths
I'lga round Asiii and Europe," translated by Alexander Leslie, 2 vols., 1881,

\Hi

ST. LAWRENCE 6aV.

?09

1778. It 18 remarkable that Behring sailed past it just half a century before,
that is, August 10, 1728, on which account the neighbouring island waa called
St. Lawrence Island.

The bay was minutely surveyed by Capt. Liitke in July, 1828, and here com-
mence the sailing directions given by that navigator, corrected, where necessary,
from later information. Cape Nouniagmo is theN.E. extremity of St. Lawrence
Bay, and is distinguished by a remarkable hill, not from its elevation, but from
its rounded summit. Cape Krleougoun, which forms the S.W. extremity, is
11 J miles S.W. by S. ^ S. from it. The western slope of this mountain de-
clines very gradually to form a large opening, through which runs a rapid but
shallow river, on which is a village of stationary Tchuktchis, named Nunamo
or Nouniagmo, 2 miles from the cape of the name. Cape Pnaougoun, beyond
which commences the interior bay, is 3J miles to W. by S. from this village.
Between these the shores are level and low, terminating abruptly at the sea-
shore. From these escarpments, entirely covered with snow in July, avalanches
were constantly falling with great noise. Not a single shrub breaks the
monotony of the interior plains.

Cape Krleougoun is high and very steep ; beyond it the coast turns rapidly
to the westward towards Metchigmensk Biiy. Upon this cape there is a moun-
tain, very remarkable from some sharp peaks. It is a very well determined
position on the chart. The cape is in lat. 65° 29' 40" N., long. 170" 50' W.
At half a mile from its extremity is a village.

From this cape the coast extends, rounding to the North and N.N.W., for
7 miles, where a bed of gravel projects, forming a tolerably large lake. It is
3 J miles S.W. by S. from Cape Pnaougoun, and may be taken as the other
point of the inner bay. Above it is a village.

The depth in the centre of the bay is 27 fathoms. At 1 or 2 miles from the
North shore there is 5, 6, and 9 fathoms, sand and gravel; farther off the depth
rapidly increases. At 1 or 1 J mile from the South shore there is from 7 to 12
fathoms, muddy bottom ; on approaching the inner bay the depth increases, and
opposite the bed of gravel there is 23 fathoms. No indication of reefs or dan-
gers was perceived.

These gravel deposits will be found to be so frequent in occurrence, that
they certainly form a moiety of the entire coast between East Cape and the
South extremity of Lopatka. A summary description of them may therefore
be here given. What is meant by a bed of gravel is a formation or collection
of shingle, rising from a few inches to 6 or 7 ft. above the surface of the water.
They are generally covered with a turfy moss and plants similar to those on
the land. They generally extend in a straight line, or gradually and slightly
curve. They sometimes form distinct islands, and sometimes join on to tho
continent, forming the coast itself, or else points projecting from it. Their
breadth varies ; some are almost washed over by the sea, and none exceed a
mile. There is generally a great depth on their edges, and frequently at 10 or

t I

i'%^
. M 1

910

b^HBiNG s£:a.

ii^

'I"

il 'i

12 yards off there is 4 or 5 fathoms. At 2 or 3 miles off the depth gradually
increases, the bottom frequently muddy ; bo that, wherever one of those gravel
beds is met with on the coast, so sure are you to find anchorage. Neverthe-
less it sometimes occurs that detached and similarly deep banks lie before
these. In digging holes in these banks water is foimd at the level of the sea,
but always among the shingle.

Such shingle banks are met with in other regions, but nowhere so freqaently
as iu the seas of fiehring and Okhotsk. They are seen at every step, and a
glance is sufficient to demonstrate that they are formed by the sea, but in what
manner is not so evident.

The inner bay extends West and W.N.W. for 19 miles, and throughout
maintains nearly an equal breadth of 3^ miles. The opening is rather narrowed
by a low gravel bed, at half a mile westward of Cape Pnaougoun. Its distance
from the South Cape is 2^ miles. Here is the chief entrance, where there is
more than 27 fathoms water, and no danger. In the East passage there is not
more than 1 1 ft. water.

Cape Pnaougoun and the coast, for a mile distant, are formed by a bed of
gravel ; farther off, though low, it is perpendicular, and covered with snow.
Extending from Cape Pnaougoun to the N.E. and W.N.W. it forms a cove,
now named Liitke Harbour, 1^ mile long and wide, in which is secure an-
chorage.

At the extremity of St. Lawrence Bay the termination of a chain of high and
peaked mountains abuts, which has every appearance of being a branch of the
chain traversing the Tchuktchi country from East to West, and joining the
Stanovoi chain. Two small rivers How into the head of the bay.

But few birds or fish, for provision, were seen here ; a few salmon were all
that were procured. But these privations were amply compensated by the
abundance of reindeer which was procured from the wandering Tchuktchis,
always near the coast in the autumn, for iron articles, &c., or, above all, for
tobacco. During the last few years ves^iels touching here only found a few
miserable natives encamped on the shores.

Fresh water is to be had, and of very excellent quality, but not everywhere
readily procurable. Capt. Liitke took his from a brook 1 mile from Cape
Pnaougoun; it may be taken from the beach by means of a hose. On the other
hand, not a morsel of wood can be got. It is worthy of remark that, although
the opposite or American coast abounds with it, both growing and drift, not a
single piece is brought here by the sea. The tides are very insignificant; the
greatest difference observed was 15 inches; and were usually very irregular.
As near as could be ascertained, the establishment of the port was 4'' 20"". The
currents are strong, but apparently as irregular as the tides. The winds are
generally light ; those between South and East bring the fog.

The observations made upon the bed of gravel make its West point lat.
65° 37' 30" N., long, about 170° 43' 30" W.

METCHIGMENSK BAY— STRAIT OF SITNIAVINE.

711

dually
gravel
erthe-
before

HETCHIQMENSK BAT.— From Cape Krleougoun the coast turns rapidly
to the westward, and, curving in an open bay, extends for 20 miles to the
W. by S. to a moderately elevated but very steep cape, on which is the large
village of Lugren. The coast appeared clear, without any danger. A bed of
gravel, separating Metchigmensk Bay from the sea, extends from Cape Lugren
lor about 10 miles to the S.W. by W., curving to the South.

The entrance to the bay is very difficult, from its narrowness and the lowness
of the points forming it. Before making them out, the people on them will be
seen, as if walking on the water. The entrance is so placed, that its opening
cannot be made out until it is brought to bear N.W., and consequently when
near the western side. It must thus be sought from the mast-head, like the
opening to a coral reef, which, in foggy weather, is impracticable. The best
mark to find the entrance is a cape on the North of the bay, whi6h, on the
continental side, projects to the South. It is tolerably high, even, and ends
in a low point to the S.W., appearing, at a distance, like two or three islands.
The northernmost and longest of these apparent islands, which is distinguished
by a cliff, lies W.N.W. from the entrance. Bringing it on this bearing, and
steering for it, you go right for the entrance.

The village of Metchigm, on the West side, at 2 miles from the point of the
gravel bed, is a sure mark. The winter yourts show themselves by a thick
verdure on and around them. The Bay of Metchigmensk penetrates the land
for a great distance. The remarks as to supplies at St. Lawrence Bay equally
apply to this. The entrance of the bay was assumed to be in lat. 6.5^ 30' 30",
long. 172° 0' W. The bed of gravel which forms tho West side of the entrance
extends 5 or 6 miles to the N.N.E.

At 15 miles S.E. by S. of Metchigmensk Bay Cape Khalueiktn ^rojecta, very
remarkable for a round-topped mountain. To the S.S.E. of the cape is Ili-
liaghyn Bay, surrounded by a very low coast, apparently terminating in an
inner bay.

Thence the coast turns to S.E. by 8. to Cape Nygtchygan, which, from
North and N.E., at 15 miles distant, appears to be an island, on account of the
lowness of the land between it and Heliaghyn Bay. It is steep ; to the N.W.
of it a bed of gravel extends 3 or 4 miles, which unites at its other end to the
coast, forming a lake or bay. Southward of Cape Nygtchygan is the opening
of the extensive Strait of Seniavine.

STRAIT of SENIAVINE.— The existence of this remarkable strait was
not suspected until the voyage of Capt. Liitke, who applied the name of his
vessel to it. It is formed by two large islands, ArahamtchetchenzxiA. Ittygran.
It runs first towards the S.W., then South, and to the East, nearly 30 miles,
and from 6 miles to half a mile in breadth. Its North entrance is between
Capes Neegtchan and Kougouan, bearing S. J E. and N. i W., 5 miles apart,
and is named by the natives Tchiarloun. Each of them is distinguished by
tolerably higli mountains. Neegtchan lies sc ne distance from the coast ; but

jV^Hf

713

BEimiNG SEA.

Kougouan falls perpendicularly into the sea, and was distinguished by Cook.
Capo Neegtchun, in Int. 64'' 65' 30" N., long. 172° 20' W., is the northern limit
of the strait; as Cape Mertem, in lat. 64° 33' 15", long. 172° 24', is its southern
extremity.

At 2 miles from Cape Neegtchan is the small river Maritch. Its mouth is
a good harbour for small vessels, as they can moor against the land. Near the
mouth, to the N.W., is the Tchuktchi village, Yaniakinon. Konyam or
Penkegnei Bay extends beyond the entrance, first W.N.W. 5 miles, then as far
to S.S. W., then 2 miles to W.S.W. It is surrounded by high mountains, ad-
vancing to the coast itself. It is deep and safe.

The shore at the S.E. part of Konyam Bay, in which the Vega lay at an-
chor for a couple of days, consists of a rather desolate bog. Farther inland
several mountain summits rise to a height of nearly 2,000 ft., split up into
pointed summits. Three Tchucktchi families were living near the bay, and
were friendly.

Abolecheff Bay, — The continental coast from Penkegnei Bay runs 6 miles
to S.S.W. to Abolecheff Bay, partly steep, partly sloping, but mountainous
throughout. Its opening is in front of the South point of Arakamtchetchen
Island, and it thence extends 6 miles to the W.S.W. and S.W., with a breadth
of 1 to 1^ mile. Its North shore consists of a gravel bed, behind which, at a
short distance, high mountains rise, among which Tagleokou is remarkable for
its perfectly conical summit. The upper part of the bay is surrounded by a
very low and sandy shore. Tbore is good anchorage throughout above thb
second cape ; but to be perfectly sheltered you must double the third cape, and
lie in 17 to 19 fathoms, sticky mud. Fresh water abounds every where, but no
wood to be obtained.

Abolecheff Bay had a short-lived dignity, which it is very unlikely to regain.
It was selected by the officers of the Western Union Telegraph Company as
the landing-place iar the submarine cable which was to connect the New and
the Old Worlds, from Grantley Harbour on the American side, as related on
p. 697, ante. The enterprise was abandoned.

From iYieJirtt or S.E. cape of Abolecheff Bay the coast runs 5 miles to
S. by W. J W., and forms a bay open to the North. The surrounding moun-
tains will not permit a ray of the sun to penetrate into it ; it is, therefore,
cold, sombre, and frozen. From this icy bay the coast runs 3 miles to the
E.N.E., and approaches the West extremity of Ittygran Island. A bay on the
latter corresponds to a gravel bed running to the N.E., and is made remark-
able by the high pyramidal mountain, Elpynghyn ; the two together form a
sheltered harbour, with 9 to 20 fathoms.

From the mountain Elpynghyn the coast trends evenly to the East for 6
miles ; then with steep, reddish cliffs, 2 miles farther to Cape Mertens, the
South termination of Seniavine Strait.

' t3t^

STRAIT OF SE'NIAVINE.

713

Capo Hertena ia high, steep, and is distinguished by a mountain with three
summits. Between it and Elpynghyn Mountain there is no shelter.

Arakamtohetohen Island, or Ka-y-ne, the largest of the islands forming tho
Strait of Seniavine, is 16 miles long S.W. by W. and N.E. by E., and 8} miles
in its greatest breadth. From the S.W. point to nearly one-half its length, it
is traversed by a chain of hills, moderately high, with flattened summits; tho
highest of which, Mount Alhos, has two separate granitic rocks crowning its
summit, a short distance apart. Cape Kyghynin, the East point of the island,
and the easternmost point of the land forming the Strait of Seniavine, is in lat.
64° 46' N., long. 172° 1' W., and 28 miles E. by N. i N. from the bottom of
Fenkegnei Bay, the western extremity.

Fort Batmanoff, at 2 miles S.S.W. from Cape Eougouan, is small but good,
and is preferable to all others on account of its proximity to the sea. It is easy
to make out by Cape Kougouan and another cape equally steep but lower, at
3^ miles S.W. of it ; Port Katmanoff is midway between them. The port is
formed by a gravel bed, extending 1 ,000 yards S.W. from the coast it joins.
A portion of the space behind it, 1^ cable in diameter, has 24 to 36 ft. water,
muddy bottom. Vessels can moor to the gravel bed, where neither wind nor
swell can incommode them. At 2^ cables from the South point of the bed is
an isolated sand-bank, with 8 ft. water over it ; this point must therefore be
kept not more than 150 or 200 yards off in rounding it. Water may be got
from u rivulet at the South point.

Cape Paghelian, the S.W. extremity of the island, is 8 miles from this port,
the coast between being low and nearly straight. There is good anchorage in
the slight bay formed by it, and tolerable shelter. Cape Paghelian is the ex-
tremity of a bed of gravel, and is scarcely above the suiface of the water.
From its commencement the rocky shores run 1^ mile to the eastward, rising
quickly to form the Meinghyngai Mountain, conspicuous from its rounded top.
Then begins a gravel bed, which, trending in a curve to S.E. and S.W., forms
the excellent road of Glasenapp. The extremity of this gravel bed, called
Yerghin, is If mile to E. i S. from Cape Paghelian ; there was a small village
on it. There is good anchorage in the bay thus formed, in from 10 to 16
fathoms, mud. You may even moor to the gravel bed.

From this cape the gravel bed runs 2 miles to the N.N.E. to a pointed and
steep cape ; then the shore gradually trends to Cape Ryghynin.

Ittygran Island, 2 miles to the South of the prenous island, is 6 miles
long E. by N. and W. by S., and 2 or 3 miles broad. Its N.W. extremity is
distinguished by a blackish and perpendicular rock. From thence the North
coast of the island runs directly E. by N., and then turns to E.S.E., to S.S.E.,
and S.S.W., to Cape Postels, the S.E. extremity of the island, lying 3 miles
N.W. by W. i W. from Cape Mertens, and 2J miles from the nearest part of
the continent. This forms the breadth of the South entrance to the Strait of
North Pacific, 4 y

! I

./ t

714

BEHRINO SEA.

S^iUHvine, called by the Tchuktcbis Tchetchehouioum. Cape Potteh is distin-
guished by a moderately high hill, with a perfectly round top. Kynkai Island
which is not more than three-quarters of a mile in circuit, lies 1| mile to
S.W. i 3. from Cape Paghelian. It is moderately high and rocky, with a
bare ilattish summit. Nouniangan, a small rocky blet, is outside the strait,
lying 4^ miles N. by E. f E. from Cape Mertens. It is about 80 ft. high and
cliffy, covered with verdure.

One remarkable feature of the Strait of S^niavine, which also occurs at the
Bay of St. Lawrence, is, that in these straits, enclosed by coasts, the depth
is greater than in the middle of the adjacent sea, which docs not exceed, except
in some parts, 24 fathoms. On the American coast the depth is not great ; but
it is still more singular that this depth is separated from the shallower open
sea by a bank with still less water over it ; so that the soundings first decrease
on approaching the coast, and then increase when on it. In the middle of
Behring Strait the depths diminish equally on either side.

The tide$ were almost imperceptible two or three days after the new moon,
but a strong North wind raised the level, temporarily, 2 or 3 ft.

The wind naturally affects the atmosphere ; with those between North and
West it is clear ; the South brings clouds ; and S.E. moisture.

Vessels coming to trade generally visit the Bay of St. Lawrence, but this
doubtless will be, or has been, abandoned for the Strait of Seniavine, the latter
being 60 miles farther South, and more sheltered from ice and North winds.
Its superior ports, too, are a great advantage. For a short stay, and to procure
water, Glasenapp Bay will be found excellent. If a longer stay is to be made,
Abolecheff Bay will answer. Should it be necessary to entirely discharge a
vessel and heave her down, Ratmanoff Bay offers every facility. The Strait of
Seniavine also offers more trade, because the Reindeer Tchuktchis assemble
here in greater numbers, from the superiority of the pasturage, even over thoso
of the Bay of Anadyr.

Cape Tchaplin. — The coast from Cape Mertens runs to S.E. by S. ^ S.
The mountains recede into the interior, and from the coast a bed of gravel pro-
jects, which, trending in a curve to E.S.E. and E.N.E., forms the long point
called Cape Chaplin or Tchaplin, in lat. 64° 24' 30", long. 172° 14' W. At the
commencement of this bed of gravel high mountains, with pointed summits,
advance to the shore.

CAPE TCHOUKOTSKOI.— From Cape Tchaplin the coast trends towards
the S.W. by W. for 8 miles, and then turns to the N.W., forming Tskagen
Bay, a large indentation with 17 fathoms in its entrance. From the West
point of this bay the coast again trends S.W. by W., 10 miles, and then turns
to W. by N. Capt. Liitke considered the southernmost point of this extent of
coast as Cape Tchoukotskdi or Choukotski. It is a bluff headland, declining
in a narrow crest, from which rise some high pointed rocks. It is in lat.
64° 16', long. 173° 10' W. Beyond this commences the Gulf of Anadyr,

THE GULF OF ANADYR— PORT PEOVIDENOE.

716

is disUn-
ai Island
I mile to
Ly, with a
the strait,
, high aud

urs at the
the depth
led, except
great ; but
lower open
st decrease
middle of

aew moon,

North aud

je, but this
e, the latter
orth winds.
1 to procure
to be made,
discharge a
'he Strait of
lis assemble
n over those

by S. i S.
f gravel pro-
e long point
' W. At the
ted summits,

ends towards
aing Tskagen
)m the West
ad then turns
this extent of
ind, declining
It is in lat.
Anadyr.

The GULF of ANADYR.— The S.W. limit of this gulf may bo placed at
Cape St. Thaddeus, lying 210 miles 8.W. \ W. from Capo Tchoukotskoi.
With this breadth in its o] oning, the gulf is 420 miles in circuit, without
reckoning the si llor sinuosjties and Holy Cross Bay or the Gulf of St. Croix,
which is 180 miles in circuit. It appears to bu free from danger, with the
exception of a patch of 1 ^ fathom, which is marked on the United States chart
near its centre, in lat. 64" 16' N., long. 178" W.

Up to the timu of the visit of Capt. Liitke, Behrlng had been the only navi-
gator who had sailed in it. The Gulf of Anadyr (pronounced . InarJer, and
not Annie-dear, Mr. Whymper says) wa« visited by the Western Union Tele-
graph Company in 1865-7.

On the eastern side of the bay Mount Dionysiut, a mountain of no great
height, on the South side of the entrance of Anadyr River, is the only land-
mark of the district.

Three large rivers enter the bay, two of which are the Arnoura nnd the
Anadyr. The last is navigable for 300 miles, and has no rapids of importance
in that distance. It is aubjr ct to violent freshets in the spring, and then rises
15 or 20 ft. above its usual level, flooding the country in all directions.-*
Travels in Alaska, &c., pp. 115, 117.

Along the North coast of the bay, no sort of danger was perecired from the
Siniavine, and the bottom is gravelly. It must therefore be considv red that it
is clear throughout, because Behring, who kept close to the land all the way
beyond the cape now bearing his name, does not either make mention of any
shoal or reef whatever. The eastern angles of the gulf are the portions which
have the least depth.

From Cape Tchoukotskoi the coast extends to W. by N. Capt. Liitke here
went off the land, so that he did not examine the coast immediately to the
westward of Cape Tchoukotskoi, and this is the part that since his survey has
been of great interest, as Port Providence was used by the Franklin Search
Expedition in 1848-9, and by the Telegraph expedition of 1865-7. At 12 miles
to W. J N. from this cape we reach Cape Stoletie (of the century), which much
resembles the former, of a blackish colour, and having, in a similar manner,
isolated rocks on its crest.

At 7^ miles from Cape Stol6ti6, Cape Ouliakhpen projects in a steep decli-
vity, and is high. The rocks of this cape, and also of those farther to the
north-westward, are not so black as those which extend towards Cape Tchou-
kotskoi ; and the isolated and pointed rocks on their crests arc not seen here.
On the East side of this cape is an open bay, into which the small river Vouten
falls.

PORT PROVIDENCE or PLOVER BAY is the first opening westward of
Tchoukotskoi, and, as stated above, is not marked on Capt. Liitke's chart. It
afforded winter shelter for II. M.S. Plover (Commander Mooee) in 1848-9,
which was despatched in search of the missing expedition of Sir John Franklin.

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BEHRINO SEA.

It conslBts of an inlet extending to the northwnrd, terminating at its northern
end in two arms named Cache nnd Vladimir Bays. On its East side, at its
southern part, are two harbours named Plover Bay and Emma Harbour. Bare
oliflis and rugged mountains hem it in on three sides, and many-coloured lichens
and mosses are the only vegetation seen, except on a patch of open country
near Emma Harbour, where domesticated reindeer graze.

Plover Bay, which is frequented by whalers, lies just above the entrance
of the inlet. It is extensive, with safe anchorage in 1 R fathoms, protected
from the sea by a long, low spit of land, but the holding ground being slaty
and poor, it is unsafe in heavy northerly gales. Otherwise it is a very secure
baven, and it is no uncommon thing to find several whal: '~ vessels lying inside
in the summer. A supply of water could be conveniently obtained. There is
n Tchuktehi village on the spit ; their tents are composed of sicin, stretched
over a frame built of the large bones of whales and walrus. Tht« commander
of the Corwin represents the inhabitants as drunken and worthless. — (See
Lieut. Hooper's Tents of the Tuski.)

On the East side of this bay is Slavianska Bights where the Russian govern-
ment has established a coal dcpdt. In 1876 the bay was visited by Lieuts.
Onatsevich and Maximov, of the Bussian Navy, who made a partial survey.
The observation spot, at the head of a small bight on the West side of the bay,
was determined to be in lat. 64° 21' 56" N., long. 173" 23' 54" W. In 1880
the officers of the U.S. schooner Yukon deduced the long, as 173° 21' 32" W.

Emma Harbonr, in which the Plover wintered, communicates with the
larger one by an opening a mile wide, 4 miles above l .over Bay, forming a
basin 4 miles long, and 1^ mile in breadth, surrounded on every side by lofty
mountains, except to the southward, where it is separated from the sea by a
tract of low land and an extensive lagoon, and having deep water at the entrance
and middle, with good anchorage on each side close to the shore. On the low
land to the South was a native settlement, to which "belonged a large herd of
reindeer. The natives were very friendly.

Plover Bay, as before stated, was selected as the Siberian Station for the
Western Union telegraph cable, leaving Grantley Harbour on the American
side. A station was built, and the line was commenced toward the Amoor,
through a most rugged and difficult country, and one of the party, Mr. Bush,
made the entire journey from the Amoor, a distance of at least 2,500 miles, in
the winter of 1855-6, a feat which deserved to rank as the most remarkable of
many undertaken by members of this expedition.

Cape Uakkoun, like Cape Ouliakhpcn, is very high and steep. It is con-
spicuous, from a pyramidal rock rising from its summit.

Cape Tohing-an falls from a great height, almost perpendicularly, into the
sea. It is very remarkable by a red band which intersects the cape from its
summit to its base.

From Cape Tching-an the coasti consisting chiefly of perpendicular roekst

OULP OF ANADYIl— CAPE PEIIRINO.

717

trends to N.W. by W. f W. and W, ^ N. ns fnr as Cape Spanherg, which is
high, ond in lot. 64° 42 J' N., long. 174=' 36' W. On the South side of the
cape is a high steep rock, with n rounded top, and on the West side is a hill
equally rounded, the flanks of which gradually slope on cither side. Dctwccn
this cape and Cape Halgan, 9 miles distant to the West, a bay penetrates into
the land.

Cape Halgan is high and very steep, and in front of it is n large detached
rock. Cape Ninirlioun is as high and as bluffas the preceding, and in general
the intervening coast is equally so. This cape is very remarkable by its flat
top, but more so from its entirely difierent appearance from that which follows
it. Cape Allcheun, in lat. 64" 48', long. 175° 28'. This latter cope, moderately
elevated, is steep to seaward.

Transfiguration Bay. — The coast extends in a winding manner 4 miles
north-westward to a small open bay, which Liitkc recognised as Behring's
Bay of Transfiguration or Preobrayenia. It is surrounded by a low shore, and
towards its extremity it receives the Itiver Ledianaya (frozen), which the
Tchuktchis call Kouivacm. From this bay the coast is high, nearly perpendi-
cular, and like a wall ; it extends 9 miles to Cape Enmelian.

CAFE BEHBINO is equally high and perpendicular, and is situated in lat.
66° 0' 30' N., long. 175° 48' W. It is particularly noticeable, because hero
suddenly terminate the steep rocks which, with small exceptions, form the
entire extent of coast as far as Cape Tehoukotskoi, and farther North the coast
becomes still lower. The mountains in this space are similar to those at Capo
Tehoukotskoi : of a moderate height, level at the summit, sloping, and even
flat, which particularly characterises the mountains about Cape Ninirlioun.
The high and peaked mountains, like those in the Bay of St. Lawrence, will
no longer be seen, even in the distance. From Cape Behring the coast turns
abruptly to N.E. by N. J N., then to N. by W. J W., sloping gradually, and
terminating perpendicularly in some parts, as far as Cape Tchirikoff, ^hich is
steep, with a peaked summit, and forms an open bay. Some villages were seen.

Beyond this only a single bluff and high cape can be distinguished, lying 4
or 6 miles N.W. by W. J W. from Cape Tchirikoff. The coast thence trends
towards the mouth of a large river, from whence it takes a westerly direction.
At 10 miles from the mouth of the river, the lead only gave 6 to 7 fathoms.
All the eastern shore of the Qulf of Anadyr is destitute of wood.

To the westward of the river above mentioned, the coast is low for 4 miles,
and then commences to become hilly. The mountains, higher than those on
the East coast, are peaked or flat at the summit, but all are dispersed without
any order. The coast in this form extends 15 miles West, forming a small open
bay, into which a small river falls, and terminated on the South by a high bluff
cape. The bottom of the bay is in lat. 65° 36J', long. 176° 48', and is properly
the northern extremity of the Gulf of Anadyr.

At 3 or 4 miles from this last river the most remarkable bed of gravel that

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718

BEHRINO SEA.

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had been seen commences. It extends without interruption to S.W. by S. i S.
and W. by S. i S. for 45 miles, as far as Cape Meetchken, in the Gulf of St.
Croi.', and consequently forming the largest portion of the North coast of the
Gulf of Anadj T. It is throughout nothing but a heap of bare shingle, with the
exception of a very few spots, where there had been, or still was, a habitation.
A narrow and shallow canal separates this gravel bed from the continental coast,
which runs parallel to it, and bounds the sea with low reddish cliffs.

HOLT CROSS BAY, Gulf of St. Croix, or Kresta Gulf, occupies a space
of 54 miles of latitude, and 35 miles from E.N.E. to W.S.W., and reaches
within 10 miles of the Arctic circle. Its shores, to the distance of 35 miles
from its entrance, run nearly parallel to each other, to N.W. J N., and 20 miles
apart. Farther on they approach each other, and narrow the gulf to less than
4 miles.

Cape Meetchken, the western extremity of the bed of gravel previously de-
scribed, forms the East point of the entrance ; it is in lat. 65° 28' 40", long.
178° 40' W. The shortest distance to the opposite shore to the West is 13^
miles.

There is good anchorage on the North side of Cape Meetchken, open, how-
ever, to N.W. and W.N.W. ; the coast in this direction, being 40 miles distant,
affords not much protection. The depth is 5 to 9 fathoms, and the best place
is to bring Cape Meetchken to bear S.W. Care must be token, in entering, of
the rocky bank, which lies 1^ mile south-westward of the cape.

The eastern side of the gulf, the nearest part of which is 8 miles from Cape
Meetchken, has but very little depth. There are no mountains whatever along
the coast, which is a low cliff. Only near the entrance a branch of the moun-
tains advances, of which the nearest to the gulf is called, by the Tchuktchis,
Linglingai, meaning " heart rock," in Russian Serdze Kamen. It lies in lat.
65° 36it' N., long. 178° 6' W., and its height is 1,462 ft. above the sea.

At 26 miles from Cape Meetchken a tolerably large and high bed of gravel
advances from the coast to the W.N.W., and forms a cove 2 miles in circuit,
exposed to the N.W., in which there is safer anchorage than in that at Cape
Meetchken. At about 8 miles from this point a long and low point projects,
forming the South limit of the Bay of Kanghynin, which is nearly 6 miles wide
at its opening, but is shallow.

The northern side of the gulf presents an entire contrast to those of the East
and western sides. High mountains here advance in three abrupt capes, of a
sombre appearance, forming between them Egvekinot and Etclkouium Bays.

Egvekinot Bay, at the head of the bay, penetrates 7 miles N. by W. J W.,
with a breadth of 1 or 1 J mile. The high mountains which surround it leave
all round a narrow band of low shore. There is no part of the bay worthy of
the name of a harbour. Etelkouium Bay lies by the side of the former. The
depth in the entrance was 13 to 18 fathoms, muddy bottom, and it had every
appearance of being a good port. At the entrance of the bay, on its North side,

GULF OF ANADYR— THE RIVER ANADYR.

7.19

«HI

a bed of gravel forms Krusenstern Cove. Quiet anchora|3;e may be had withia
it in 7 to 12 fathoms.

At 10 miles to the westward of Etelkouium Bay is Engaonghin Bay, at tlio
N.W. angle of Holy Cross Bay. It is a round cove of S miles in oircuit,, shel-
tered from the South by a low point projecting 2 miles to the West, and by a
gravel bed standing alone in front of the point. This forms an excellent har-
bour, the only one worthy of the character in the Gulf of St Croix.

From this bay the western coast of the gulf runs 8oUih, and then curves
gradually to the E.S.E., without forming a single rip.arkablc bay or cove. At
the distance of 10 miles from the port the mountains advance very near to the
sea, and reach it in places with high cliffs. This side of the bay is distingui'shcd
by its superior depth ; in the centre the depths are from 22 to 40 fathom.s,
muddy bottom.

The most remarkable mountain here is that of Matatchingai, at the bottom
of Etelkouium Bay. It is distinguished from all others as well by its elevation
as by its sombre and rugged flanks. Its height was calculated at 9,180 ft.

On the West side, up as far as the Port of Engaoughin, a large quantity of
drift-wood is found, even long and large trunks of trees ; on the East and
North coasts, on the contrary, not a single piece is met with. This circum-
stance is worthy of note ; it proves that the current from the River Anadyr,
from which it comes in entering the Gulf of St. Croix, bears chiefly to the
West, although from the bearing of its shores the contrary would have been
anticipated. On no part of the shores of the gulf is the smallest trace of grow-
ing wood to be met with.

The establishment of the port appears to be S*" 50". The greatest rise was
7 ft., but usually it was 4V to 5 J ft. ; some former traces showed a rise of 9 ft.

The EIVER ANADxli, which gives its name to the gulf which receives
its waters, is the most considerable of those falling into the Sea of Behiing.
The Western Uiiion Telegraph was intended to follow the course of the river
up to some villages called Anadyrsk, some distance from its mouth. From this
it was to cross over to the head of the Sea of Okhotsk at Tigil, thence proceed-
ing to Ghijega.

The land round it is low, and in approaching the entrance of the inner bay,
into which it falls, there is a very curious island, to which the telegraph party
gave the name of Sarcophagus, from a supposed resemblance. The entrance
to this bay is about 5 miles wide. On the shore large herds of domesticated
reindeer graze.

The telegraph party who wintered on the Anadyr in 1867 found that blind-
ing snow storms were prevalent during winter, and between log-houses, not
more than 100 yards apart, it was found necessary to stretch a guiding rope
for the men. Reindeer meat was obtained in great quantities.

CAPE ST. THADDEUP is the S.W. cape of the Gulf of Anadyr. Behring,
perhaps, gave this name to a cape on August 21, (O, S.), being iu lat. 62° 42',

■ . ■■.'■■■^\,

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^•11

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720

BEIIRING 8EA.

and from hie datn the term has been defined to apply to the high bluff cape
situated in lat. 62° 42', long. 179° 38' E.

Cape St. Thaddeus is the point which projects farthest to the East in this
portion of the coast, while beyond the cape the coast turns to the N.W. and
S.S.W,, so that it iorms a sort of natural limit to the Gulf of Anadyr. At 15
miles to the S. by W. ^ W. is another high cape, to which Capt. Liitke applied
the name of Kinff.

Archangel Gabriel Bay. — From Cape King the coast turns suddenly to the
westward, fornwog a bay, which penetrates the «nd to a depth of not less than
15 miles, with a breadth of 6 nuies. To this bay Capt. Liitke gave the name
of Behring's vessel.

CAPE NAVARIN.— From Archangel Gabriel Bay the coast runs S. by
E. i E. to this cape, in lat. 02" 16', long. 179' ^' E. In addition to its con-
spicuous situation. Cape Navarin is remarkable for a high mountain on its
point, 2,512 ft. in height, the flankb of which descend nearly perpendicularly
into the sea.

Cape Navarin is the South extremity of the peninsula which bounds Arch-
angel Gabriel Bay on the South. A chain of high mountains extends through
it. Mount Heiden surpasses the rest in elevation (2,230 ft.), and is distin-
guished by its conical form. In the middle of September (1827) it was entirely
covered with snow.

From the cape we have a long interval of coast, upwards of 350 miles in
extent, of which we know next to nothing. Ca])t. Clerke passed it at a gi-eat
distance, and Capt. Liitke, both in his progress to the North and on his return,
was prevented by bad and foggy weather from making observations on it. Tliis
district is peopled h-j the Koriaks.

CAPE OLUTO^SKOI, tl - first point described by Capt. Lutke, is in lat.
69° 58', long. 170° 21' E. It is remarkable by a high mountain with three
summits (2,^537 ft.) with a steep ascent from the sea. From this cape the
coast extends on one side to N W. J N., towards the Gulf of Olulorgkoi; and
on the other 30 miles to N.E. ^ N. In all this extent it is mountainous, and
falls iQt'> the sea in cliffy headlands.

Tlje Gulf of Olutorskoi was not examined by Capt. Liitke on account of tho
fog and its distance. Its western termination is a cape, which was supposed to
be Cafe Govenakoi, in about lat. 59° 50', long. 106° 18' E. It is high, bluff,
and cliffy, and over it are some high mountains.

Cape Ilpinikoi. — From the latter capo the last-named coast trends in a
curve VN' 1^ S. to Cape Ilpinskoi, where the coast suddenly becomes lower.
This cajx s in la*. 59" 48J', long. 164" 57'. I'rojecting from mountains of a
moderate hei)^, it advMvces to the S.W. in an even point, not very high, and
falling porpf / 'V'/>vilarly into the sea. According to Krachenninikoff, it is
joined to the continont by an isthmus so low and narrow that the sea washca
oyer it.

fCaLa

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COMMANDER ISLANDS- BEIIEING ISLAND.

721

Verkholoursky or Little Karaghinsky Island lies directly before Cape Ilpiu-
ekoi, and is in lat. 59° 37 J^', long. 164" 43'. It is of a round form, and 3 or 4
miles in circumference. On all sides except the N.W., where it is low, it falls
perpendicularly into the sea. The strait between the island and Cape Ilpiu-
skoi is 12 miles broad, and nearly in the middle of it is a dangerous reef,
awash, extending H or 2 miles East and West. In the centre is a small but
high rock. A little to the northward is a stony islet, and it may be presume*!
that there are other dangers.

From Cape Ilpinskoi the coast curves to the West and S. W., forming a hirgo
gulf, which is bounded to the South by the large Island of Karaghinsky. As
this bay forms one of the narrowest and the lowest portions of the peninsula of
Kamchatka, it is usually taken as tlie northern limit of that country ; the Bay
of Penjinsk, in the Sea of Okhotsk, forming the opposite coast.

Although a small portion of the coast to the southward may be included in
the shores of the Sea of Behring, we shall for the present quit them, leaving
them to be described in connection with the peninsula in the next Chapter.

COMMANDER ISLANDS.

These two islands, Beliring and Medn}' or Copper Islands, which still belong
to Russia, do not in reality form a portion of the Aleutian Archipelago, but
must be considered as a part of the chain connecting the volcanos of America
with those of Kamchatka.

The first Russian navigators gave them their present name of the Koman-
(lorski Islands, in memory of one of the most tragic events in the annals of
navigation — the death of Behring (known in these countries under his title of
Commander), on the westernmost island, which now bears his nsrnc. Captain
Lutke's voyage of the Seniavine has furnished us with the accounts of them.
The Alaska Commercial Company maintain a station on each island for pro-
curing seal-skins, &o- The inhabitants are about 300 in number.

BEHEING ISLAHD is nearly iM> miles long N.W. i N. and S.E. j S. Its
greatest breadth at the North end is 16 or 17 miles; to the S.E. it narrows,
and forms a pointed cape, in lat. 54° 42', long. 166° 45' E. A chain of moun-
tains, 2,200 ft. m height, extends throughout the island ; in its centre are some
peaks. They are in general higher in the South, and lower and more even in
the North. There are several small rivers, frequented by fish when spawning.

The South cape, called Cape Mamtti by Behring's companions, is conspicuous
by some high peaked rodts terminating it. From this the V.nsX coast trends
N. I W. iu steep clilfs to Cape Khitroff or Hitrova, in lat. 54° 66 , long.
166" 46' E. From this to the N.E. point. Cape Waxell or Vaksel, the coast
trends generally N.W. by N. J N. The N.E. extreme is an obtuse, low head,
projecting 3 miles into the sea. Reefs project from its North and East angles
North Fiwijio, 4 z

'i 111

3> . ■ .i

("iWlLi

722

BEHEINO SEA.

n !

i- ,'

to a mile or more, and it seems that all this coast is bestrewed with rocks. In
the curve formed by the East coast is a small bay with a gaudy beac! , on
which is a large quantity of drift-wood.

Cape Youchin, the low N.W. extremity of the island, is in lat. 55° 21', long.
166" 58' E. From this point a dangerous covered reef extends 3 or 4 miles to
the North, on which, at nearly a mile from the shore, is a large uncovered rock.
Between Capes Waxell and Youchin the coast forms an open bay, bestrewed
with rocks, and about midway between them was a temporary establishment of
the Russian- American Company.

From Cape Youchin the coast trends to S.W. to the West extremity of the
island, in lat. S.O" 15', long. 165° 48' 30"; and thence to the S.E., in which
direction, at 10 miles farther on, was the Company's factoi-y, on the shore of a
small bay open to N.W., where, in summer, is tolerably good anchorage in 4
or 5 fathoms, sand, at three-fifths of a mile from shore. This bay is called
here the part : but it must be by contrast to the other unapproachable points.
Two islets abreast of the village, due West, are good marks to make the port;
the one, Toporkoff, is 2 miles, and the other, Arii Rock (Alcas Rock), at
nearly 6 miles. Between the two, rather nearest to Toporkoff, is a sunken
rock that only uncovers at low water, called Pohvintchnfy. To the north-
eastward of tliis again are some indications of sunken reefs, so that the North
side? of these islands should be avoided.

The 8.W. coast of the island, from the port to the South extreme, is entirely
unknown.

The spot where Behring died, as related on p. 062, is on the East side of the
island, at three-quarters of a mile W.N.W. from Cape Khitroif.

The water is very deep around the island. At from 4 to 6 miles off the N.E,
and North shores the depth was found to be 58 to 67 fathoms, muddy bottom
on the North side ; further to the East, stony bottom.

HEDNY ot COPPEE ISLAND is remarkable for its long and narrow
figure. The only island it resembles hereabout is Amiia. It is about 30 miles
in length, and its greatest breadth towards the middle is not more than 5 miles ;
it fiequently does not exceed 2 miles. It seems to be the crest of? moimtain
rising out of the sea in a S.E. J E. and N.AV. f W. direction. Medny Island
is scarcely lower than its neighbour, Behring Island ; seen from the Behring
Cross, as the snot where the commander p evished is termed, it appears to con-
sist of three islands. Its shores are very steep, clear in most parts, and tho
depth around very great. There are some reefs at its N.W. and S.W. extremities,
and at soiae other points, but they do not extend far off. The island is entirely
without anchorage for large ships; but on its N.E. side, at 10 miles from its
N.W. extreme, is a small bay, where small vessels may ride, with 6 and 7
fathoms in its entrance.

The outer coasts of the bay are high ; the S.W. side is clear, but on the
East side is a multitude of isolated rocks and stones, which shelter the port a

i: .:|1

COMMANDER ISLANDS— MEDNY ISLAND.

723

little from the North. These rocks, and a high conical mountain on the S.E.
side of the bay, serve as marks for entering. The rocks must be left to star-
board, and then steer direct for the village, and as soon as you reach as high
as a stone column on the West side of tlie little harbour, you must cast anchor
instantly, and at the same time moor the poop to the shore, for there is no room
for her to swing. You will have 2 and 2^ fathoms at half a cable's length from
the shore. The harbour is badly sheltered from the North, and to guard against
North winds always keep a suflScient scope of cable.

The Compauy's establishment was ' the South side of the harbour, in lat.
54" 47'. The latiiv'de of the N.W. extremity of the island is 64° 54', long.
167° 32' 30" E.

Medny (Mednoi or Copper, as the Russian name signifies) was thus named
on account of the native copper found here, and which was attempted to be
worked in the middle of the last century, but the poverty of the mine led to its
abandonment.

The climate of these islands is not very rigorous. There are no very intense
frosts in winter, but they have at times very heavy snow storms. In January
and February the N.W. and West winds bring the ice on the coasts in large
quantities. The weather is clear with N.E. and East winds ; it is overcast
with those from East and S.E. There are no active volcanos on either of the
islands, but earthquakes are frequent, the shocks of which are sometimes felt
for a long time. The highest tides rise about 6 or 7 ft. There are no trees on
cither island, but in the lower parts are some bushes.

After violent and long-oontinued winds, a large quantity of drift-wood is
thrown on to the shores, principally of those species that grow at Kamchatka,
but sometimes the cypress that grows on the American coast, and even the
■wood which only grows at Japan. Sometimes, also, lacquered vessels of wood,
of Japanese manufacture, have been found, which goes to prove that in this
part of the ocean the currents trend to North or N.E.

The Aleutes say that in some pai'ts of the strait, between the islands, there
are sunken rocks, but, as they have not yet been seen, this may be doubted.
One of 2 fathoms is marked on the chart, at about 10 miles WN.W. from the
N.W. end of Medny Iblund.

( 724 )

n 4

I ' •!

I II

CHAPTER X.

KAMCHATKA, OKHOTSK, AND THE KUEILE ARCniPELAQO.

The first country described in this Chapter is the great peninsula of Kamchatka.
It lies between the parallels of 62° and 51° North latitude, and is consequently
about 800 English miles in length. The honour of the first discovery of
Kamchatka is attributed to Feodor Alexcieff, a merchant, about the year 1648.
The conquest of the peninsula was completed in 1706, and it has ever since
paid tribute, in fura, to the governor of Irkutsk. It was made a new province
by Imperial ukase of December 14th, 1849, and foi-med of the territory under
the administration of the sea-coasts of Kamchatka, and the district of Ghijinsk.

The natural limit of the peninsula would seem to be, as we have before stated,
at the bay to the West of Cape Ilpinsk. The civil division extends beyond this
to the River Olioutor.

The natives are of two races, the Kamtchadales and the Karinks or Koriaks,
whose territories are divided at Cape Oukinskoi. The Kamtchadales diifer
from them more in mode of life than physical conformation. They seem to
partake of the Mongolian l^pe.

Of the geography of the peninsula a few words may be said. Of the eastern
coast, with the exception of the few points imperfectly seen or observed by
Cook and other naviy:ators, the only delineation that existed for a long period
was that furnished by Behring. Capt. Liitke was despatched from St. Peters-
burg to minutely survey this coast in the Scniavine, in 1827-8. Delays and
contrarieties prevented this being done to the extent intended, and only some
of the more prominent features received the great attention which that com-
mander was capable of exercising in this exploration. That officer's work was
published in 1835-6. Professor Adolph Erman also employed some time in the
examination of various points on land, it has since then been examined by
EuBsian officers, and their chart was published in 1849 — 51. From these
and later authorities the following description has been derived.

Kamchatka is pre-eminently a country of volcanos. Some of the highest
peaks in the world surmount its mountain ranges. These mountains, which
cover about two-tlurds of the entire surface, form an irrrgiiLir chain in a N.N.E.
and S.S.W. direction. Mamy of their summits are in a l*igh state of volcanic

ELAGO.

Kamchatka,
onsequently
iiscoveiy of
5 year 1648.
i ever since
ew province
ritory under
if Ghijinak.
lefore stated,
beyond this

or Koriaks,
adales differ
hey seem to

f the eastern
observed by
long period
n St. Peters-
Delays and
id only some
(h that com-
r's work was
e time in the
examined by
From these

r the highest
itains, which
T in a N.N.E.
o uf volcanic

KAEAGIIINSKY ISLAND.

725

action ; and, considered as a whole, it may be supposed that they form a por-
tion of the great volcanic belt which extends through Aliaska and the Aleutian
Islands, and is continued on through the Kurilcs, Japan, and Formosa, to the
Asiatic Archipelago.

In the principal range running North from Cape Lopatka, its South extremity,
thirteen summits, with craters and hot springs, have been observed, one other
height being isolated, and lying West of the main range. The most active of
these are Assatchinskoi (8,340 ft.), Avatcha (8,760 ft.), and Klutchevskoi
(16,131 ft.). During an eruption of the first, in 1828, the scoria and ashes were
carried as far as Petropaulovski, 120 versts (80 English miles) distant.

There are no large rivers in Kamchatka. The configaration and formation
of the peninsula preclude this. The largest is the Kamchatka River, which,
however, is said to be capable of admitting vessels of 100 tons about 150 miles
up the stream.

The severity of the climate hos been exaggerated, though it is severe. In
some of the sheltered v.iUeys, which possess great natural beauty, the tempera-
ture is not very inclement. Perhaps a similar train of remarks would hold
good both for Japan and Kamchatka, that tliere is great difference between
the East and West faces of the country ; the former differing from the piercing
West winds passing over the ice and snow o ;' the continent of Asia. Of course
agriculture has been but little pursued. Its slender population know but few
wants, and these are supplied from the produce of the chase, as bears, lynxes,
otters, reindeer, foxes, &c. The skins of these form the principal export, and
but few supplies can be calculated on by vessels touchinr; here.

KARAGHINSKY ISLAND.— This island, and the adj:;cent coast, until the
time of Liitke's exploration in 1828, had not been seen by any known navigator,
except Syndt, since the time that Behring had seen one or two of its points
through the fog.

It is 57 miles in length, and an uninterrupted chain of mountains traverses
its length, declining towards the S.W., and rising again at the South end,
forming a hill about 700 ft. in elevation. The western coast is of an insigni-
ficant height ; all the shore of the North and East sides of the island is higher
and steeper. This causes a great difierence in the appearance of the opposite
coast, the steep ascents, the rugged or rounded summits, frequently rising to
1,250 ft. above the sea, and an Alpine vegetation, give it a mountainous
character.

Its N.E. extremity. Cape Golenichtcheff, in lat. 59° \^', long. 164° 40' E.,
is 23 miles South from the Island of Verkhotoursky. Its South end. Cape
Krnchenninikoff, in lat. 58° 28', long. 163° 32', is at the distance of 40 miles
from Cape Oukinskoi, on the coast of Kamchatka. P'rom the N.E. extremity
to the S.E., in the centre of the island, a chain of steep mountains extends, of
2,000 ft. in height, on the two flanks of which arc chains of less elevation.

At 13 or 14 miles from the S.W. cud of the island the mountains decline

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THE PENINSULA OF KAMCHATKA.

considerably in height, becoming more even and sloping, and at 6 miles from
this extremity is a low isthmus of 1^ mile broad, which, beyond 20 miles off,
gives the appearance of a separation of the higher hills to the southward.

Beyond the S.W. end the coast trending to the East forms a bay open to
N.N.E. and N. by W., but where there is rery convenient anchorage.

At 31 miles from the S.W. end, and at 27 miles from Cape Golenichtcheff,
a bed of gravel running off the N.W. coast extends 7 miles to the West and
S.W. Its point. Cape Simenofft is 13^ miles E. by S. ^ S. from Cape Kouz-
michtcheff on Kamchatka. It is low, and is from half a mile to 300 yards in
breadth. With the coast it forms a bay, open to all the S.W. quarter ; but,
notwithstanding this, it is an excellent roadstead.

The depth in the strait separating Karaghinsky from the continent is from
13 to 27 fathoms, most commonly a muddy bottom. It seemed as if there was
some bank at 4 or 5 miles to the S.E. of Cape Krachenninikoff, as a change in
the colour of the water was observed, and the soundings rapidly decreased to
] 2 fathoms.

Cape Ilpinskoi, which has been before alluded to, is the North point of the
large gulf which washes the eastern shores of the narrowest part of the Kam-
chatka Peninsula. It is in lat. 59° 48^', long. 164° 57', and is joined to the con-
tinent by a low and narrow isthmus, over which the sea washes.

Cape Kotizmichtcheff, the position of which is well determined as lat. 59° 5',
long. 163° 19', is steep, and is conspicuous by the direction of the coast on either
side, as to the northward it trends S.E. towards it, and to the southward it
runs W.S.W.

Earaghinskaia or Ukinsk Bay, formed to the northward by Cape Kouz-
michtchcff, penetrates the land for 9 miles in a N.W. direction, its breadth
being from 4 to 8 miles. At the head of the bay the River Karaya discharges
itself, in lat. 59° 8', long. 162° 59'. The shores of the river itself are low, but
mountains covered with wood rise at no great distance. A bed of gravel ex-
tends for 4 miles to the South of the mouth of the Karaga, and then the coast,
but little elevated, turns gradually to the S.E., and forming a cape in lat. 68° 55',
long. 163° 2' E., which is the southern limit of Karaghinskaia Bay.

Cape Ookinskoi, which was p".socd at a great distance by Captain Liitke,
forms the southern limit of a very extensive gulf, 60 miles in extent from North
to South, of which Karaghinskaia Bay may be placed on the North. Cape
Oukinskoi, or JSatchikinskoi, was considered by Capt. Liitke to be in lat. 57° 58',
long. 1 62° 47' E. It is low and level ; the position of the high and remarkable
mountain upon it is probably determined with greater precision ; its lat. is
57° 54', and its long. 162° 52 . This cape is the boundary between the Kamts-
chadales and the (Sedentary) Kariaks ; the first dwelling to the South, the
second to the North of it. The coast thence extends for 25 miles to the S.E.,
to a cape marked on the charts as Cape Ozernoi, in lat. 57° 35', long. 163" 14' E.
It is distinguished by a mountain slightly peaked.

>t 1

CAPE KAMCIIATSKOI.

727

The coast beyond this is formed of high and sloping mountnins, and nothing
remarkable occurs until the liiver Stolbovskaia is reached. The mouth of this
river is very distinct, and is in lat. 56° 40^', long. 162° 39'. At 10 miles from its
mouth the coast begins to be mountainous, and continues so for 15 miles.

Cape Stolbovox is a high cliff, in lat. 56" 40f , long. 163° 21' E., and before
it are three detached rocks, one very large. The coast from the cape towards
the Biver Stolbovskaia turns abruptly to the N.W., and soon aftcrvrards to
West and W.S.W. At 13 miles South from Cape Stolbovoi, in lat. 66° 27',
the chain of mountains is interrupted to give place to a very low valley, through
which, to the W.S.W. from seaward, there was no elevation visible between
the Klutchevskoi volcano. The coast in question trends nearly upon a meridian
for 35 miles South from Capo Stolbovoi. Throughout this extent, with the
exception just alluded to, the coast is high and mountainous, terminating on
the sea-coast often in slopes, but with cliffs in some parts, but it is throughout
fronted by an extensive reef. From the above distance the coast runs 12 miles
to S.W. to Cape Kamchatskoi, and continues fronted by a reef.

CAFE KAMCHATSKOI.— There was some doubt as to which was the actual
cape bearing this name. The coast here forms a sloping and slightly elevated
cape, which, seen from the S.E. at a great distance, would have the appearance
of a remarkably prominent point.

From Cape Kamchatka the coast runs N.W. and West to the mouth of the
River Kamchatka, a tortuous stream of no great size, having the village of
Sharon at its mouth. The entrance is marked by two small beacons, and has
a depth of 11 ft. on the bar at high water. There is a high signal-house near
a village 2 or 3 miles North of the entrance, and a pilot can bo procured if re-
quired. The land in the vicinity is low and flat.

Tlie river was ascended by Major Abasa, a Russian ofRcer in charge of the
Siberian part of the Western Union Telegraph expeditions, in August, 1865.
He went from this to Tigil on the Sea of Okhotsk. Nishni (New) or Lower
Kamchatka, near the mouth of the River Kamchatka, is the place to which
Behring brought the naval stores, and built the boat in which he started on his
voyage of discovery, July 20, 1728.

Klutchevskoi Volcano, the great mountain of Kamchatka, lies at the back
of the bay to the westward of Cape Kamchatskoi, in lat. 56° 8' N., long.
160° 45' E. This volcano, called also Kamchatskoi, and sumamed Klutchevskoi
or Klocheffskaia, from the name of the village Klutchi (springs), lying at its
foot on the South or right bank of the Eiver Kamchatka, is of a truncated, but
very steep, conical form. On its S.W. and N.E. sides are two other but lower
mountains, the first with a serrated summit, called by the Kumtschadales the
Needle, the second even. The volcano bears W. i S. from the mouth of the
River Kamchatka, and the extremity of Cape Kamchatskoi is 80 miles E. ^ S.
from it. Capt. Liitke calculates its height as 1 6,502 English feet. Piofes-sor

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728

THE PENINSULA OF KAMCHATKA.

Krman measured it as 15,766 English feet; ho terms it the Peak of Kliuchevik.
Its height, as given oa the Russian charts, is 16,131 ft.

Dr. Erman states that he saw it in a picturesque and sublime activity, and
approached the burning lava, which poured forth a continuous stream, till hu
reached the height of 8,000 ft.

CAFE KRONOTSKOI, with a large detached rock off it, is in lat. 54° 54',
long. 162° 33'. The intervening coast between it and the river trends S.W.,
South, and then 30 or 40 miles S.E. by S. In the distance is seen the chain of
high snowy mountains, extending to the Klutchcvskoi Volcano. About 30 miles
S.S.W. of the cape is Cape Kosloff, and it is reported that the coast northward
of this is charted 15 miles too far East. Several rocks lie off the coast between
these capes. The northern shores of the Gulf of Kronotskoi, which extend in-
ward to the S.W. of the latter cape, were not examined by Liitke. The North
shore is low near the sea.

Kronotskoi Volcano, 10,610 English feet in height, stands on the North
side of the bay in question, in lat. 54° 45', long. 160° 37' E. It appears to bo
entirely isolated, and may be seen at 120 miles distant. Kronotskoi Volcano,
like that of Villcuchiiiski, has the form of a regular cone, but it seems to be
less steep than the latter. To the left of it is a mountain, the summit of which
was flattened, and close to it a peaked hill, probably the same that was over-
turned during the passage of the Chevelutch Mountain from its ancient to its
present site.

Between it and Joupano£f Volcano, to the southward, many high mountain
summits were seen, but not forming a continuous chain. In the southern part
of the bay, at 30 miles to the northward of Cape Shipunokoi, a cape projects
in the neighbourhood of which the mountains recede into the interior of the
country, leaving only a low coast. From this cape to Cape Shipunskoi the
coast is mountainous, and imperfectly known. It is said to be indented with
deep bays and inlets.

CAPE SHIPUNSKOI, or Tschipunski, in lat. 53° 6', long. 160° 5' E., is the
extremity of some level land, which advances 3 miles from the chain extend-
ing to the Joupanoff Volcano, and terminates on the sea-coast throughout in
rocky cliffs 200 ft. high. Seen from the S.W. or N.E., it has the same aspect
as that of a projecting and even cape, but on the S.E. the level appearance is
confounded with the other moimtains. Beyond the extreme point are some
detached rocks, which seem to be united by a reef. Capt. Liitke observed a
strong current off the cape which produced some overfalls.

Cape Nalatcheff, 22 miles W. J N. from Cape Shipunskoi, is a high, steep
mountain, the summit irregularly rounded, projecting in a point to the South.
The coast to the eastward of it is low and sandy near the sea, and rises towards
a chain of moderately high mountains, but which are steep, and terminate in
peaks; these extend to Cape Shipunskoi. Viewed from the S.W., this chain
seems interrupted in a part where Betchevinshaia Bay opens. Trading vessels

AVATCHA BAY,

729

used formerly to visit the little River Vakhihkaia, which debouches 5 miles
N.W. of this bay. The little liiver Kalakhtyrka, which enters the sea at 7
miles from the lighthouse cape of Avatcha Day, is pointed out by a rock of
moderate height, whitened by the dung of the sca-b:rdB, lying 2 versts {\\
English mile) to the South of it.

The coast between this river and Avatcha Bay is lofty, and terminates on
the shore, in many parts, in high cliffs. This space is intersected in one part
by a low isthmus, between the bottom of llakovya Bay and the sea, across
which the hunters who go to take birds from Toporkoff Island transport their
canoes.

AVATCHA BAY.*

This bay, the principal port of the Peninsula of Kamchatka, derives its chief
interest from its containing the port of St. I'eter and St. Paul, Petropaulski,
as much os from its intrinsic superiority. It is so extensive and excellent, I'uut
it would allow all the navies in the world to anchor in perfect security in its
capacious bnsin. Yet the navigator in entering it will at first see no sign of
human habitation or commerce on its shores, unless, perchance, some vessel may
be approaching or quitting its only port, the little town above mentioned.

It was visited by Captain (afterwards Admiral) Beechcy, in II.M.S. Blossom,
in 1827, who made an accurate and ample survey of it. In the narrative of the
voyage of the French frigate La Venus, under Capt. Du Petit Thouars, is a
lengthened account of it commercially and nautically, and from those and later
authorities we derive the following.

The Road of Avatcha, or the inner bay, lies at the bottom of the outer bay
of the same name, and is about 10 miles in diameter, with an average depth of
from 10 to 14 fathoms. It is reached through a narrow channel, which is 4
miles long, and about 1 mile broad. This strait, although thus narrow, is not
dangerous, because there is anchorage throughout its whole extent ; in it, as in
nearly all close channels, the winds are almost always either directly in or out
of it ; that is, they are either contrary or favourable for passing it. In case of
having to beat in, it is necessary to attend strictly to the leading marks.

The immense Bay of Avatcha, which leads to this channel, is formed by the
retreat of the coast-line between Capes Povorotni or Gavareah and Shipunskoi
or Cheponskoi ; these two capes are the best landfalls for making the Port of
Petropaulski. In fact, whether Cape Gavareah or Cape Shipunskoi is closed
with, if the vessel should be overtaken in either of these positions by thick

* It is written AtvaUka by Admiral Beocliey. Cupt. Du Petit Thouars and othora writo
Avatcha; Miillor says ^u'a^scAa ; or properly, according to Knmtac ha laiian pronunciation,
Suaalaeha. Mr. Whympor says that, notwithstanding tho variety of spelling', Avatcha is
the distinct English pronunciation of the name of tho place.

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(716)a73-4S03

4io

THE PENINSULA OF KAMCHATKA.

fogs or strong winds from East or S.E., it is always possiblo to keep at seat
should the endeavour be to moke the channel nt once on its parnllcl, not only
will the making the coast be retarded without any advantage being gained, but
should she then be surprised by any contrariety, there is no means of making
an advantageous tack in order to keep off, and the situation of the ship will be
troublesome, there being no soundings on the coast, and neither do they offer
any anchorage which could be taken in such circumstances.

If you arrive by night oti the entrance to the bay, and the wind should Le
contrary for entering, it will be dangerous to attempt to enter the port without
the assistance of a pilot, or unless well aequaintcd with it.

With contrary winds, with wind too light to steer, or during calm, the currents
and narrowness of the entrance render the navigation difBcult ; but the possi-
bility of anohoring throughout diminishes the danger. With a leading wind,
the entering or leaving Avatcha Bay offers neither difficulty nor danger.

If the currents affect the steering, which, in a light breeze, frequently happens
in the entrance, it is well to anchor in Ismenai Bay, on the East side of the
entrance, or, if necessary, in any part of the channel.

£IOHT.— On Dalni Point, the eastern point of the entrance, a /xed bright
light is shown, elevated 449 ft., and visible 24 miles, between E. by N. and
N.W. } W., round by South. It is only lighted occasionally, and owing to its
great elevation it is often obscured by fog. Lat. 52° 52' N., long. 158" 47' E.
There is telegraphic communication with Petropaulski.

The light may be approached without any risk, by means of the lead, and
there is pnchorage close to it.

There is no particular precaution necessary for safety in anchoring in Avatcha
Bay. The sea is never so heavy as to occasion any trouble ; but as the bay is
surrounded by high mountains, violent gusts are sometimes felt, so that, for
greater security and quietude, it is better to have a long hawser out. Lieut.
Stephens, II.M.S. Eyeria, says that vessels should moor.

The tidal currents are very irregular, both in form and duration ; they wcro
never found more than at 2 miles in the entrance, or 1^ mile in the road.

Fetropaultki Harbour, on the eastern side of this bay, is small, deep, and
well shut in. It is defended by three raking batteries.* A vessel, of what-
ever size, can enter it, and undertake any description of repairs.

• During tho Crimeaa war PetropauUki wa* attucked by nn allied fleet of lix ihipi,
French and Englitb, with a result by no means a subject of congratulntion to us. On
August 28th, 1S64, the ships opened firo on the outer batterioa, and the Itussiani retumod
it with groat spirit. Ultimately an ilUjudged landing was made of 700 men, during tho
unprotected march of whom almost all the officers were picked AT. Having lost theii
loaders, the men fell back in disorder, and were repulsed with a loss of 107 Knglish. Tho
■hips then bore off. This victory was the cause of very gro:it surpris .' and self-gratulation
to the defenders of this poor little town. When tho fleet rt turned in tho :v>llowing spring.
May and June, 1866, they found (he place abandoned, and it fill, of course, a very easy
prey. — Mr, Whymptr.

AVATCIIA DAY.

731

TtiretHtlii Ilurhour, lying in the S.W. port of the bny, is extensive nnd ex-
cellent ; but as there is neither population nor trade in it, it has, up to the
present time, been of no utility.

JRakovya Harbour also forms, to the South of Petropaulski, an equally excel-
lent port, but it is of less easy access than the foregoing, on account of Ita*
kovya Dank, lying in the middle of the channel lending to it.

Windi, — In fine weather the morning breez« is from the North to N.N.W.,
lasting until 8 or 10 o'clock, and sometimes eron until 1 1 o'clock ; then, shift-
ing to the West and South, it sinks altogether ; in the afternoon, about 1 or 2
o'clock, the breeze from the offing sets in, varying from South towards East.
After the middle of Uotober the weather becomes wet, and then snow falls in
abundance ; the inner harbour becomes frozen over, and remains so till May
or June. Violent storms are experienced in November, December, and January.

Direotioni.*— It is desirable to make the coast well to the southward of Capo
Oavareah, and to round it as closely as possible, as the wind will, in all proba-
bility, veer to the northward on passing it. If the weather be clear, two moun-
tains will be seen to the West and N.W. of the cape, and one far off to the
northward and eastward. The eastern one of the two fbrmer, called VilUuchimki,
is 7,372 ft. high, and peaked like a sugarloaf, and is in lat. 52' 42', long.
158° 22' E. The highest and northernmost of the three is the Mountain of
Avatcha, in lut. 53° 21' N., long. 158° 47' £. ; ito height is 11,500 ft., and in
clear weather it maybe seen a very considerable distance. Koteltkoi Volcano
the centre hill of the three, emits very little smoke.

These peaks are the best guide to Avatcha Bay, until near enough to distin<
guish the entrance, which will then appear to lie between high perpendicular
cliffs. Upon the eastern one of these, the lighthouse bluff, there are a hut and
signal-staff, and when any vessel is expected a light is sometimes shown. If
the harbour be open, a large rock, called the Jiaboushka, will be seen on the
western side of the channel, and three others, named the Brothers, on the
eastern side, off the lighthoiue. The channel lies in a N. by W. direction,
true ; and when the wind is fair, it may be sailed through by keeping in mid-
channel ; but it frequently happens that vessels have to beat in, and as the
narrowness of the channel renders it necessary to stand as close to the dangers
as possible, in order to lessen the number of tacks, it is requisite to attend
strictly to the leading marks.

The outer dangers are a reef of rocks lying S.E., about IJ or 2 miles from
the lighthouse bluff, and a reef lying off a bank which connects the two caj .s
opposite, i.e. Slanitki Point, with the capo to the southward. To avoid tho
lighthouse reef, do not shut in the land to the northward of the lighthouse
bluff, unless certain of being at least 2^ miles off shore, nnd when within

• These dtroctiens «r« by Admind Becobey, m given in the Appendix to the Voj-agc of
tbo Bhuontt

732

THE PENINSULA OF KAMCHATKA.

; r

thrce-quniicrs of a mile onh , tack when the lighthouse bluff bean North, or
N. i £. Brothers Rock, in one with the lighthouse, leads close upon the edge
of the reef. At night, if the light be visible, keep it in sight bearing N.W>
There is anchorage with the lighthouse bearing N.E.

The first danger on the western shore has a rock above water upon it, and
may be avoided by not opening the Baboushka with the cape beyond, with a
flagstaff upon it, or by keeping Staniski Point well open with the said South
signal blttCr. In standing towards this rock, take care that the ebb tide in par*
tieular does not set you upon it. A good working mark for all this western
shore is the Baboushka open with Direction Bluff, the last cape or hill on the
h/t upon the low land, at the head of Avatcha Bay ; but there is a 3^ -fathoms
patch lying just East of this mark, abreast the North part of the cliffs round
Staniski Point. The bay South of Staniski Point is filled with rocks and foul
ground.

The lighthouse reef is connected with the Brothers, and the cape must not
be approached in any part within half a mile, nor the Brothers within a full
cable's length. There are no good marks for the exact limit of this reef off the
Brothers, and consequently ships must estimate that short distance. They must
also here, and once for all, in beating through this channel, allow for shooting
in stays, and for the tides which, ebb and flood, sweep over toward these rocks,
running S.E. and N.E. They should also keep good way on the vessel, as the
eddy currents may otherwise prevent hci coming about.

To the northward of the Brothers, two-thirds of the way between them and
a rugged cape, named Pinnacle Point, at the South extreme of a large sandy
bay (Ismenai Bay), there arc some rocks nearly awash; and off Pinnacle Point,
which lies N.N.W. 1^ mile from the lighthouse, there is a small reef, one of
the outer rocks of which dries at half-tide. These dangers can almost always
be seen ; their outer edges lie nearly in a line, and they may be approached
within a cable's length. If they are not seen, do not shut in the Rakovya or
North signal bluff. Off Pinnacle Point the lead finds deeper water than in
mid-channel, and very irregular soundings.

When northward of Staniski Point the Baboushka may be opened to the
Mstward a little with the South signal bluff North of it, but be careful of a
shoal which extends about 3 cables South of the Baboushka. The Baboushka
has no danger to the eastward, at a greater distance than a cable's length; and
when it is passed there is nothing to fear on the western shore, until N.N. W.
of the signal-staff, off which there is a long shoal, with only 2 ond H fathoms.
The water shoals gradually towards it, and the helm may safely be put down
in Ai fathoms; but a certain guide is, not to open the western tangent of
Baboushka with Staniski Point South of it. There is no other danger on this
side of the entrance.

When a cable's length North of Pinnacle Keef, you may stretch into Itmenai
Bajf, guided by the soundings, which are regular, taking care of a S-fathoms

AVATCHA BAY.

7«S

knoll which lies Imlf-wny between Pinnacle Point and the sceond cliflT, 7 cables
northward of it. 'litis bay affords good anchorage, and it may bo convenient
to anchor there for a tide. There is no other danger than the above-mentioned
Itnoll. Iimena't Rock, the large square rook at the northern part of this bay,
may be passed at a cable distance. This rock is connected with the land to
the northward by a reef, ond in standing back towards it. Pinnacle Point must
be kept open of the lighthouse bluff; when in one, there is but 3^ fathoms.
Rakovya or North bluff signal-staff to the northward, in one with the bluff
South of it (which had a large green bush overhanging its brow), will place
you in 5 fathoms, close to the rocks.

Off the North bluff of Ismenai Bay there extends a small reef to a full cable's
length from the shore ; until this is passed, do not shut in Pinnacle Foint with
the lighthouse bluff. But to the northward of it you may tack within a cable's
length of the bluffs,'extending that distance a little off the signal-staff bluff, in
consequence of some rocks which lie off them.

Northward of Bakovya signal-staff the only danger is Rakovya Shoal,
three-quarters of a mile long E.S.E. and W.N.W., and 3 cables wide, with a
depth of 6 ft. on its shoalest part, lying in the middle of the entrance to
Bakovya Harbour. Upon its West part there is a buoy in summer, and to
clear this keep the Brothers in ciyhf.

There is no good mark for determining when you are to the northward of
this shoal, and as the tides in their course up Bakovya Harbour are apt to set
you towards it, it is better to keep the Brothers open until you arc certain, by
your distance, of having passed it (its northern edge is seven-eighths of a mile
from Bakovya bluff), particularly as you may now stretch tc the westward as
far as you please, and as there is nothing to u "itruct your beat up to the an-
chorage. The ground is everywhere good, and a person may select his owr berth.

Rakovya Harbour, on the eastern side of Avatcha Bay, will afford good
security to a vessel running in from sea with a southerly gale, at which time
she might find difficulty in bringing up at the usual anchorage. In this case,
Bakovya Shoal must be rounded, and left to the northward ; 5 and 5^ fathoms
will be found close upon the edge of it, but the water should not be shoaled
under 9 fathoms.

The little Harbour of Petropaulski is a convenient place for a refit of ony
kind. In entering, it is only necessary to guard against a near approach to the
signal-staff on the peninsula on the West. The sandy point may be passed at
a few yards' distance.

Weighing from the anchorage, off the peninsula flagstaff, with light winds,
and with the beginning of the ebb, it is necessar}* to guard against being swept
down upon Bakovya Shoal, and, when past it, upon the signal bluff on the same
side. There are strong eddies all over this bay, and when the winds are light,
ships often become unmanageable. It is better to weigh with the last drain of
the flood.

194

THE PENINSULA OF KAMCHATKA.

Tfireintki Harbour, at the 8.W. angle of Aviitclia Boy, ia on excellent port,
but it is not frequented. It has no dangers, and may bo safely entered.

It is high wnfer at i^etropaulski, on full and change, at 3^ 30" ; the tide rises
6 feet 7 inchcjs at spring tides, and A\ feet nt ncnps.

The old church at Petropaulski is in lat. .53° 1' 0" N., long. 158° 43' 30" E.,
according toCapt. Beechey, but later authorities place it in long. 158° 39' 15'.
PETROPAULSKI stands in an amphitheatre on the slopes of two hilUt
which form the valley, and is simply composed of n group of small v ooden
houses, covered with reeds or dry grass, and surrounded by courts and gardens,
with palisades. It was founded in 1790 by Ivnn Jelagin, Behring's pilot, and
named after the two vessels of the exjiedition. At its lower part, in the bottom
of the valley, is the old church, remarkable for its fantastic construction, but
fast falling into ruins. A new church has been built by an American Fur
Trading Company, and at the back of it are the Company's premises.

In approaching Point Shakoff, as the extremity of the peninsula forming the
harbour was named, and on which is a battery, perhaps a white buoy will be
seen, marking the extremity of a bank having 3 fathoms on it, extending nearly
a quarter of a mile S.S.E. {true) from it ; two prominent white monuments in
the cemetery in line lead clear of it. This may be passed close to,* leaving
it to the left, and thence steer to the end of a low point of land which projects
at on angle of about 45° from the direction of the coast, and nearly closes the
bottom of the bay, making it into an excellent natural harbour, the best that
can be desired. This tongue of land, like an artificial causeway, is but little
above the surface of the water, and is now covered with halagans, huts raised
on piles above the ground, serving to dry fish. In the early days of the Russian
occupation it was the site of the colony. Arrived at the bottom of the port you
land on a plank, which holds the place of a mole.

Mr. 'Whymper, who was here in 1865 and 1866, says : — With the exception
of a few decent houses, the residences of the Russian officials and foreign mer-
chants, the town makes no great shew. The poorer dwellings are very rough
indeed, and are almost exclusively rude leg cabins. The only noticeable build-
ing is the old Greek church, which has painted red and green roofs, and a
belfry entirely detached from the building. Petropaulski was once a military
post, and had a rather larger population than at present. The Cossack soldiers
have now been removed to the Amoor.

The Russian- American Company had at one period stations in Petropaulski,
ond other parts of Kamchatka, but abandoned them, owing doubtless to the
competition of private traders. It is now one of the centres of the fur trade,

* Kooping the South end of the cliff under the cemetery bearing N.E., until within a
oalle's length of the beach, when the church will appear in the centre of the valley, leads
southward of this ahoal, after which the diruct channel to the Inner harbour htu nothing
less than 6 fathomi.— F. 0, Rohtrti, Matter, S.X., JI.U.S. " rmidtHt," 1856.

AVATCHA DAY— PETROPAULSKI.

735

but Nijui (new) Kamchatka is the present capital. Uolcheretsk ^tbj considered
the principal town formerly, but hcs dwindled down to an inconsiderable Tilkge,
and indeed the popuIatL^n, and with it the production of Kamchatko, is on the
decline. Yet the climate is by no means so bad as commonly beliered. Colonel
Bulkley, of the Telegraph Expedition, considered that it was better than that
of some of the New England States and Canada, and was quite certain that
agriculture was possible.

A vessel in need of repair will only find safe anchorage in Avatcha Bay, and
roust depend on her own resources both for provisions, workmen, and refit>
ments for the ship. It is, however, possible to procure, in urgent cases, some
slight aid from the Government stores, ond some workmen of the port ; but
these assistances, besides being limited, are very precarious. Wood is difficult
to get, but water is easily obtained. A supply of fresh beef nuiy be procured,
and a little fresh butter, but it is difficult to get poultry or eggs. There are no
sheep or pigs. Fish is abundant in the bay in the season ; it begins with cod
and is followed by salmon and <;almon-trout.

The Coatt.— The eastern coast of Kamchatka, between Cape Qavareah and
Capo Lopatka, is very little known ; it trends to the S.W. i S., the shores in
many places being lined with rooks. From the entrance of Avatcha Bay the
coast trends nearly due South for 33 miles to Cape Pocorotni, northward of
which are Littventch and Akhomten Bayt, where anchorage may be had with
fair shelter from westerly winds. From Cape Povorotni the coast trends
S.S.W., 24 miles, to a high headland named Cape Piratkoff, and between them
nre Muhuiia and Aaatcha Bavs. Southward of this the laud is not so high
and broken as to the northward. The coast is steep and bold, and full of white
chalky patches. The hills break abruptly, and form chasms and deep valleys,
which are well wooded.

At 14 miles S.W. of Capo Piratkoff is Cape Khadulka, forming the North
point of a large bay. The South extreme terminates in a conspicuous steep
reddish bluff. Cape Jelti, about 20 miles S.W. of Cnpe Khadutka, is from 300
to 400 ft. high, with precipitous red cliffs. Anchorage may be obtained on its
South side, protected by a reef to the East and an island to the southward.
From hence to Cape Lopatka the distance is about 60 miles.*

CAPE LOPATKA, the South extremity of Kamchatka, is inlat. 50° 52f N.,
long. 150° 45'. It is u very low, flat, sandy cape, sloping gradually from the
high level land to the North, and to the N.W. of it is a remarkably high moun*

* It wu on this part of tho coast that tho tingular ocourronceof the wreck of a JapancBo
vcBscl occurred in July, 1729. In a former page (301) wo have ipoken of such an event
having occurred on the coo&t of Oregon, and another will be mentioned at the Sandwich
Ittlunda. All these fads, which doubtless oiight be multiplied, would tend to prove that
tho winds and currents in tho western portion of the North Pacific hare a great analogy to
those of tho North Atlnntic ; the same progress of the cyclones, or revolving btorms, and

736

KURILE ISLANDS.

8 ;■

tain. lU name, Lopatka, signi6es the bladebone of a mnn, or a shovel, and m
ezpretsive of it* form. It extends from the South end of the peninsula 10 or
15 miles, and is about half a mile broad. A small iHlct lies to the S.R. of it,
eastward of which breakers were seen at a mile off shore. On the West side
of the cape extensive reefs project about 7 miles to the N.W.

Knrilr dv Ait, the passage between this cape and Shumshu, the N.W. Kurile
Island, is ^bout 8 miles broad, and very dangerous, on occount of the strong
currents and the sunken rocks on either side, which narrow it to a width of 3
miles, llie depth in this strait is 10 to 20 fathoms, and from its East end a
W.N.W. course leads safely through.

KUBIIE ISLAHD8.

This extensive chain of islands extends nearly in a uniform S.W. line from
the South extremity of Kamchatka to the North point of the Island of Yczo,
a distance of about 650 miles.

JioutioU Channel separates the chain into two portions ; that to the nok'th-
ward was formerly claimed by Russia; but in 1875 the northern portion was
ceded by Sussia to Japan, in exchange for the Japanese possessions in Saghaliu
Island, so that the entire archipelago now belongs to Japan.

The northern portion is all apparently of volcanic origin ; indeed the whole
chain may be looked upon us a series of submerged mountains, a continuation
of the mountain chain traversing Kamchatka through its whole length.

Of the southern portion the most considerable islands are Urup, Iturup,
Kunashire, and Tschikotan or Spanbcrg Island. On these there are military
posts for defence, and establishments for facilitating the commerce with the
Ai'uos, the native inhabitants. The name Kurile is derived from the Kamt-
ehadalc word for " smoke," the volcanic islands having been seen from Lopatka.
The islands are all surrounded by fields of sea-weed.

Our acquaintance with the configuration of the Kurile Islands moy be con-
sidered as tolerably complete. This result w&s one of the most difficult problems
in hydrography. The fog in which the group is constantly enveloped ; the
violent currents experienced in all the passages or straits separating them ; the
steepness of their coasts, and the impossibility to anchor near the land, are such
formidable obstacles, that it tries to the utmost the patience and perseverance
of the mariner to acquire any knowledge respecting them. We are much fu-
debtcd to a Russian Comraauder, Capt. Golownin, or Qolovninc, who, in 1811,

tho same drift to the N.E. oo its West side. The vesiul ia question was bound from
Satsuma tor another Japanese port called Ozuka. Sho was driven from her course by a
violoat storm to eea, where thoy rtmiiined for tix months, and at last reached this coast and
cast anchor. Tho crow, seventeen in number, landed and encamped, but they were all sliot
but two by a treacherous Coisack, who was afterward* hung. The two survivors wen s<u)|
to St. Petersburgh to be educated.

8HUM8HU AND F0R0MU8HIR ISLANDS.

wu charged with the lunrey in the Diana ; this wM completed with the ex-
ception of the North sides of Kunuiri and Iturup. Besides this, we hare the
observations of Admiral Krusenstern in the Nadiijtda, in 1805 ; of La PSrouse
and Uroughton, before alluded to ; of Longman, Spanberg, and other Russian
officers; and also a chart by the surveyor Oilaeff, made in 1790. In the
Geological Magazine, 1879, pp. 337 — 348, is an article by Professor J. Milne,
F.a.S., entitled, " A Cruise among the Volcanos of the Kurile Islands."

Alaid, the northernmost of the Kurile Islands, is small, about 6 miles in
diameter, and in lat. 50° 54' N., long. 155° 32' E. It lies rather within or to
the West of the gr-eral lino of the archipelago. Professor Milne says its
general appearance id that of a solitary cone, appearing to be over 3,000 ft. in
height. In many places the shore line is bounded by low cliffs, terminating in
a small abrupt peak at the S.W. end.

SHUKSHV or Penri Island would, therefore, be reckoned as the first island
in reckoning from Kamchatka, Alaid not properly forming part of this group.
Its southern extreme terminates in a tongue of low land ; the North end is the
same, and is 8 miles distant from Cape Lopatka, in a S.W. \ W. direction, and
has a reef extending 2 miles off it. The island is about 15 miles long in a
N.K. and S.W. direction, and iU centre lies in lat. 50° 46', long. 156" 26' E.

Professor Milne states that, as compared with the other islands in this group,
Shumushi is extremely flat. At Myrup (at the East end of the island) were
three wooden houses, built by the Russians, all deserted. The inhabitants, 28
in number, live at a place called Selena, about 4 miles distant.

FOBOMTTSHIB ISLAND, or Paramuihir, is among the largest of the archi-
pelago, being 58 miles in length N.E. and S.W. Its southern part is very
mountainous, the S.W. portion less so. There is also a high mountain, named
luis Peak, in lat. 50° 15', long. 155° 24' 15". Near its South end is a high
and conspicuous dark peak, and to the southward of this are three remarkable
peaks. The S.E. point is long and low, and a reef appears to extend off it.

A mountain, forming the northern end, is giving off steam, and is remarkable
OS being one of the flickering embers of those internal fiery forces, which raised
the Kuriles; I have ventured to name it Mount Ebeko. — Profenor Milne.

Little Kurile Strait separates Sumshu and Poromushir Islands. In its
narrowest part it is only about a mile wide, near the village on the former
island. In its southern entrance are a group of bare rocks. Bird Islands, with
a deep channel between them and Kokskar Rock, on the edge of the shoal ex-
tending southward of Sumshu. The flood stream sets through from the south-
ward.

Shirinky Island, which lies about 9 miles off the 8.W. extremity of Poro-
"lushir, according to Kruscnstem's chart, and on which point is marked a peak,
protnibly a volcano, is small, being not more than 2 miles in diameter. It lies
in lat 50^ 15' N., long. 154° 58' £., and has apparently a flat top.

North Pacijic, 5 o

i I

738

', t ■• r ' «

KUUILE ISLANDS.

Xonkonraahy Island, or Makanruthi, U ooiuiderably larger than the hut,
and when teen from the P^ast ahows as a fine cone. It lies in lat. 49' 51' N.,
long. Ifi4° Sir £.

Avot Rock. — Lieut. Khwoatoff diaoovered, in June, 1806, a rook lying 7
miles S.W. of Monkonrushy, to which he gave the name of Avos, because, in
first seeing it, he thought it wos his consort, so named. This rook is sui-rounded
by a dangerous reef, formed of rooks even with the water's edge.

ONVEKOTAH ISLAND u 24 miles long N.N.E. and S.S.W. Admiral
Krusenstem baring sailed along its western shores at a short distance, it was
distinctly seen, which was not the case with its eastern face, which was passed
a long way off. It has several lofty peaks, two of which are dome-shaped. The
B.W. point, then named Cap$ Krmitzan, lies in hit. iQ' 19' N., long. 154° 44' £. ;
and its S.E. extreme at about 2 miles still farther to the South.

Amphitriit Strait, separating this island from Poromushir, is 22 miles broad,
and is very safe ; all ships going from Okhotsk to Kamchatka, or to the American
coast, and returning, use this channel in preference.

KEABIM-XOTAN or Kharamokotan Island lies S.W. i S. 8 miles from
Onnekotan, and is about 7 miles in diameter ; a peak rising in its centre lies in
lat. 49" 8' N., long. 154° 39' B.

Although Shestoi Strait, separating Onnekotan and Kharim-kotan, is safe,
the currents in it are so violent, that with light winds, or if overtaken by a
calm, the passage would become dangerous to a sailing vessel.

8HIASHK0TAH ISLAND lies 20 miles S.W. i W. from Kharamukotan,
and is 12 miles long in a N.N.E. and S.S.W. direction. Its centre is in lat.
48° 52' N., long. 154° 8' E. Near the South end is a truncated cone, and near
the centre a similar cone, still higher, and yet active. Ekarma Itland, 5
miles N.W. by W. of its N.W. point, stands up as a high irregular cone.

Chirin«kotan or Tthirinkotan Iiland is small, and scarcely more than 7 miles
in circuit. It lies 24 miles from the N.W. point of Shiathkotan, in lat.
49° r N., long. 153° 30' E., and shows two tall hills.

Hoair Islands, or The Snarei.— On August 30, 1805, Krusenstem discovered
four small islets, or rather rocks, one of which was awash. He named them
the Snares, on account of the danger he was in from the currents he riekcd so
unexpectedly. The strong currents around these rocks will always cause great
embarrassment to every ship that passes near them. They lie 13 miles
S.W. i W. from Shiashkotan, in lat. 48° 86' N., long. 153° 44' E.

Baikoke or Bankoko Island ia small but hilly, and has a high peak, lying
in lat. 48° 17' N., long. 163° 15' E.

Matana Island lies 5 miles S.S.W. of Raukoko, the channel separating
them being named Golowmin Strait. Mataua Island is 7 miles in length.
North and South. Saryttoheff Peak, a lofty peak standing near its centre, is
situated in lat. 48° 6' N., long. 153° 11' E.

Basbau Island, in lat. 47° 51' N., long. 152° 48' E., is about 15 miles in

S1MU8IR ISLAND— BOUSSOLE CHANNEL.

799

ofroumferenee, and lies 19 miles S.W. of Mataua Island. Kruscastem named'
the strait which separates them Naditjeda Strait, because his vessel was the
first which passed it, in 1805. This channel is very safe, but the currents in
it are riolcnt, and a sailing Teasel should not attempt to take it unless the wind
blows right through.

At this part terminate the obsenrations of Admiral Knuenstem, and those
of Capt. Qolownin commence.

Ushilhir Island succeeds to Rashau, and is composed of two islands, con*
nectcd by a reef of 400 yards in length ; each of these two small islands is
about li mile in length, N.N.E. and S.S.W. A roef of rocks, terminated by
a small islet named Srednoy, extends from the northernmost of these islands
towards Rashau. This islet lies 6 miles to the S.W. by S. from the southern
extremity of Rashau, and N.N.E. 4 miles from the northernmost part of
Ushishir Island. Its extent, East and West, is 1 m.ie. The southern point of
Ushishir is in lat. 47° 35' N., long. 152° 37' E., and the channel which separates
it from Ketoy Island is very safe.

Ketoy IlUnd, 12| miles S.W. by 8. from Ushishir, is high and mountainous,
and about 8 miles in circumference. Its South extremi ' lies in lat. 47° 19' N.,
long. 152° 22' E. Some rocks and islets extend for a considerable distance off
its N.E. and East sides. On Russian charts it is placed 9 miles westward of
the position assigned to it on British charts.

SIMUSnt ISLiUID, about 15 miles to the W.S.W. of Ketoy, is 27 miles in
extent N.E. and S.W., and 5 miles in breadth. In the northern part of it there
is a bay, which was also seen by Capt. Broughton, after whom it is named I
although it is very spacious, this port is only navigable for email vessels, on
account of a reef lying in the middle of its entrance. At high water there is
only 12 to 15 ft., and at low water 6 ft. depth in it. Rising behind Broughton
Harbour are three conspicuous peaks, the central one estimated to be 2,100 ft.
high. The lofty peak named by La P6rouse Prevotl Peak is situated about 10
miles to S.W. from the N.E. point of the island, and lies in lat. 47° 6' N., long'
151'' 52' 60" E. At the southern extremity of the island, named by La Perouso
Cape Rollin, there is a high mountain, in lat. 46° 51' N., long. 151° 37' £.
The land between this and Prevost Peak is comparatively low. The strait
separating the Islands of Ketoy and Simusir has the name of Diana Strait.

BoQMOle Channel, nearly 60 miles in width between Simusir and Urup
Islands, is believed to be fi«e from danger. On its southern side ore Broughton,
JRebunttiriboi, and Brat Chirnoef Itlandt. The northernmost, Broughton or
Makanruru Island (Round Island of Broughton), is of good height, bold, and
abrupt, sloping a little to the southward, near which end are some rocks, and
apparently the only place where a landing could be effected.

llic two other islands, Rebuntsiriboi or Chiinoi, and Brat Chirnoef or Chir*
noi Brothers, lie N.N.E. and S.S.W., 1 i mile apart. Rebuntsiriboi, the northern-'
most of the two, is remarkable from its having two conspicuous peaks of tugta*

740

KURILE ISLANDS.

Uwf form. A reef, which much rcMmbles an artificial breakwater, extendi a
mUe Eaat firooi ita North point, and at its extremity there ia a high rock.

UBT7P I8LAVD, the next island to the S.W., wot named by the Dutch
Company Iilond. Th« N.W. point ia hilly, aa ia all the island, which is
eoTered with mountaina, many of which are very high. It is 50 miles in ex-
tent, N.E. and S.W., and ita greatest breadth is about 15 miles. Near its
oentre is a remarkable peak, in shape like a haycock, which can be seen in
clear weather at 60 miles, and is often visible when the other portion of the
island is obaeured by fog. The N.W. side of the island is mostly rugged and
ateep, with no sign of anchorage or shelter.

The N.R. point of the ishind, named by La P^ousc Cape Catlricum, lies in
lat. 46° 18' N., long. 160° 28' E., and off it a crain of rocks extends for a
distance of 6 miles, in an E.N.E. direction, and northward of it, at the distance
of a mile from the shore, there is a large rock of a pyramidal form, with two
others smaller ; the first is sufficiently high to be sc? n in clear weather at 20
miles distance. The southernmost poini, named by the Dutch Cape Van tier
Lindt .<s in lat. 46° 37' N.. long. 149' AA' £. The S.W. point of the island is
low and steep, and continues so for about 16 miles in .i northerly direction,
when it riaes to a lofty mountain range; a high and almost perpendicular
rock, appearing like a sail when seen at a distance, lifs 3.E. about 1 mile from
the point

Port Tavano is a small harbour on the eastern side of Urup, but it is open
to the eastward, and with the wind from that quarter a heavy swell rolls in,
which, with the shallow water and rocks it contains, do not recommend it as a
aafe anchorage. The entrance has 8 and 10 fathoms water, ond is 120 yards
across ; nearly in the centre of the port there are some rocks just above water,
with 4^ and 6 fkthoms close-to. Water is procured from two rivers at the head
of the harbour. Salmon and rook fish are plentiful.

The only good mark for Port Tavano is a small, high, rocky islet, lying a
quarter of a mile S.E. by E. from the South point of the bay. After passing
this the harbour will open, bearing about West, and when the islet bears South
the depth will be 27 &thoms, aand and mud, gradually shoaling as the harbour
is approached.

About 113 miles S.E. by E. of this part of Urup, the U.S. sun'eying vessel
Tiucarora obtained a sounding of 4,665 fathoms, the greatest depth yet found
in any part of the world.

irTTRTJP, Teterop, or Staaten Iiland, is little known. It is separated from
Urup by the Strait of De Vriei or Yetorup, discovered in 1643, about 30
miles wide, and free from danger. The N.E. point of the island, Cape Okebett,
is high and perpendicular, and is also remarkable by three paps ; it lies in
•bout lat. 46° 36' N., long. 148° 49' E. Professor Milne says that it contains
several large blocks of mountains, separated by intervening spaces of lower
ground. The South point of Iturup, Cape Teiiko, but which Krusenstem

ITURUP— KUNA81RI.

741

aamei Cap* Rikord, Met in lat. W 20' N., long. 146' 68' E. The island is
therefore 114 miles in extent flrom N.E. i E. to S.W. | W. lu greatest
breadth is about 22 miles. Capt. Qolownin only examined the southern part
of the island ; the N.W. cape was named by La P^rouse Capt D$ Vritt. The
Japanese had two establishments, Sana and Urhitth, on the S.W. part of
Iturup, and there are sereral small settlements on its N.W. side, the natirca
being about 700 in number.

H.M.S. Cormorant entered a deep bay on th« East tide of the island, be-
tween Capes Noneiso and Tosimoinots; here there is shelter from all but
southerly winds. This is probably the same as Onnebiliou Bay, the entrance
of which is in about lat. 44° 62' N. It appears to hare a depth of 7 or 8
miles, its entrance being about 4 miles wide. The French !' \^ ^te VoUa an-
ohorcd here in August, 1875, about a mile from the land, in abi 'u H fathoms,
opposite two or three Japanese houses near a stream. Fish wos r.bundant.

Skotan, Ttchikotan, Sikolan, or Spanherg Island. — Al ut 20 'iiiles to the
S. by W. of the S.W. point of Iturup is Skotan Islanu, which is cnHod by
Capt. BroUo^tjn Spanb«>rg Island. It is called in Cook's Toyngc Nadergida.
^r 's a desolate island, about 12 miles in diameter, rising to ^ iicight of nearly
1,500 ft. near its S.W. side. Its centre is in lat. 43° 60' N., long. 146° 49' E.
Its northern and eastern sides appear to be indented by several deep bays or
inlets. The space between Skotan and Cape Noyshaf, the N.E. point of Yezo,
is much contracted by islands, rooks, and reefs, named Walvis Islands by Do
VricB ; the only safe channel is between Skotan and the northern island.

KUHASIBI, or Kunaihire Island, the last of the Kuriles, is separated from
Iturup by Pico or Kunatiri Channel, which is about 14 miles wide, and was
first traversed, in 1643, by Capt. Yries; next by Capt. Lofifzoff, in the Russian
ship St. Catherine, in 1793 ; Capt. Broughton, in 1797 ; and Capt. Golownin,
in 1813, alse successfully passed through this strait. Lieut. Neville, ll.M.S.
Cormorant, reports that he observed a line of heavy breakers extending right
across this channel, the sea breaking perpendicularly 20 to 25 ft. high.

Kunasiri Island is about 66 miles in length N.E. | E. and S.W. i W., and
is high, St. Anthony or Tichatchanohury Peak, near the N.E. end, being
7,400 ft. high, and showing two distinct cones, rising one above the other. The
island is stated to be surrounded with rocks and dangers. Krusenstem named
the N.iS. point Cape Loffzoff.

The S.W. part of Kunashire forms Itmen Bay, named by the officers of the
Diana the Bay of Traitors, because it was here that the Japanese, after in-
viting Captain Golownin to land, seized him and made him prisoner. The two
points forming the bay lie in a N.W. } W. .'Od S.E. | E. direction, 6 miles
apart. The western point is a tongue of sand almost awttiih, with shallow water
off it, appearing to run to the S.W. across to the Yezo s^ore. The bay has a
depth of 3f fathoms, and at its head is the village of Tomari, the inhabitants
living on fish. The village is in about lat. 43° 44' N., long. 146" 33' E.

l! i>

'Wwirr

THE SEA OF OKHOTSK.

The flood tide, which hardly rises beyond 4^ ft., comes from the East, aad
directs itself along the coast, and turns around the S.W. point towards the
strait which separates Eunashire from Yen>, and called the Strait of Veto.
TiuM will be described hereafter.

THE SEA OP OKHOTSK.

The Se* of Okhotsk, surrounded as it is on aV its nurthem and western sides
by the continent, and to the S.E. by the range of the Kurile Archipelago, may
be considered as completely landlocked. In this respect, as well as in size and
general situation, it is not unlike Hudson's Bay.

The coast to the S.W. of Okhotsk was surveyed, but not verbally described,
by Sarytsoheffand Tomine; and of the Shantar Islands, and the great Island
or Peninsula of Saghalin, we have the details given by Broughton and Kruscn-
stem. In addition to these we have some details in the Russian charts of
1849 — 51, but nothing satisfactory.

We have few particulars respecting the open sea, its currents, or its sound-
ings ; but it is known to resemble the Sea of Pehring in its shallowness, though
it is somewhat deeper. The shores are closely surrounded by mountains,
which occasions all the rivers, with one exception, to be insignificant in their
magnitude.

The only river falling into this vast basin is the Amur, if indeed the Amur
can fairly be said to do so, terminating as it does in a bay, which, being bounded
in front by Saghalin Island, opens by one strait into the Sea of Okhotsk, and
by another into the Qulf of Tartary.

One feature of interest in this remote expanse of waters is the field it offers
for the whale fishery. Whales have at times been found to be very numerous,
and of late years the hardy American whalemen have here pursued successfully
their gigantic game.

Whaling vessels frequent this sea from the beginning of July to the begin-
ning of October, few, if any, being in it by the 10th of October. The shores
are covered with ice from November to April, but the main expanse continues
open throughout the year, and, being generally deep without any apparent
danger, its navigation is safe, notwithstanding the fogs and storms with which
it is often visited.

in former years, as before stated, the whaling fleet interfered very greatly,
by their trading, with the privileges of the Bussian- American Company, a fact
which formed one great inducement for the Russian Government to transfer
the Territory of Alaska to the United States. Since that transfer, the Oovenior-
Oeneral of Eastern Siberia has declared that the Sea of Okhotsk shall be con-
sidered as a closed sea, and that vessels which enter it for the whale fishery
ahnll pay a duty equal to 10 roubles per annum. The number of vessels
hitherto so engaged here has varied from 200 to 500. Permission is also

BOLCHERETSE.

743

neeenMrjr for foreign vessels wishing to trade, &e., on the Russian coasts and
islands of the Behring Sea, and should be obtained at Vladivostok.

Care must be exercised in approaching the shores, as in many parts their
longitude on the chart may be erroneous. Northward of the Gulf of Amur
navigation during the summer months in unsurveyed waters is less dangerous
than would at first appear, as in case of fog anchorage may commonly be found
when near the land.

CAFE lOPATKA, the South extremity of Kamchatka, has been described
on page 736.

The Western Coast of Kamchatka is uniformly low and sandy, for about
25 to 30 miles inland, when the mountains commence. It produces only
willow, alder, and mountain ash, with some scattered patches of stunted
birch trees. The runs of water into the sea from the mountains do not, with
the exception of the Bolshaya or Bolchoireka, deserve the name of rivers,
though they are all well stocked with fish from the sea in the season, as trout,
and difl'erent species of salmon. They are generally at the distance of 15 to 20
miles from each other. The Itsha and the Tigil are the next most consider-
able ; and neither of them have a course, with all the windings, of more than
100 miles.

Off the western coast of Kamchatka the sea is shallow to a considerable
distance ; and the commanders of transport vessels, who never lose sight if
the exposed coast if they can help it, judge of their distance from the land, in
foggy weather, by the soundings, allowing a fiftthom for a mile; nor is there at
the entrance into any of the rivers more than 6 ft. at low water, with a con*
siderable surf breaking on the sandy beach.

Bolcheretsk is the place that is best known to Europeans on the West coast,
though its present insignificance scarcely deserves notice. It was the seat of
the government of Kamchatka previous to its removal to Petropaulski. Of
course this abstraction has diminished its little importance, and it is therefore
seldom or never visited now by commercial vessels. The expeditions under
Captains Cook and Clerke visited it overland from Avatcha Bay. Capt. King's
description of it is as follows : — " Bolcheretsk is situated in a low swampy
plain, that extends to the Sea of Okhotsk, being about 40 miles long, and of a
considerable breadth. It lies on the North side of the Bolchoireka (or great
river). Below the town the river is from 6 to 8 ft. deep, and about a quarter
of a mile broad. It empties itself into the Sea of Okhotsk, at the distance of
22 miles ; whnrc, according to Kracbenninikoff, it is capable of admitting ves«
scls of a considerable size."

The villageb on this coast, beyond Bolcheretsk, are Itshinsk and Tigilsk,
situated on thu lUha and Tigel or Tigil Eivert. Itthintk, lat. 65° 55', contains
a church, and about ten houses. Besides these, there are eight inoonsiderablo
villages, containing each three or four houses, on the West coast.

:a about lat. 57° 8' is Hargatoff Point, northward of which is a group of

744

THE SEA OF OKHOTSK.

■^■

islaads and rocks. At 20 miles S.W. of the point is Moroshelehnoe Biver,
and about 10 miles inland a volcano. Thence to the southward the land be-
eomes low. Cape Utkoloktki, about 60 miles north-eastward of Hargasoff
Point, consists of high precipitous cliffs, its North point forming a peak with a
bluff 400 ft. high. Cape Omgon, 16 miles farther on, has somewhat the same
appearance. The tides hereabout follow the trend of the coast, the flood set-
ting northward ; at springs they run 3 or 4 knots, and form heavy races off the
prominent headlands.

TIOEL BIVEB, about 18 miles eastward of Cape Omgon, is a considerable
stream,' with a village just inside the bar. Beef, fish, and milk are plentiful ;
potatoes are also grown. About 30 miles up it is the Russian settlement Fort
Tiye/, called by the Russians a fortified town, built in 1752. Sauer says it
contained forty-five wooden houses and a church. It is surrounded by wooden
palisades, and is a place of some importance in Kamchatka, as the Koriak and
Tchuktchi tribes gather round it in Januory, to exchange their furs for tea,
coBec, powder, lead, &c.

Vessels drawing 14 ft. can cross the bar at high water, and moor off the
village. There is good anchorage off the entrance in 6 fathoms, with Cape
Omgon bearing W. by S., and the bar beacons in line S.E. by E. It is high
water, on full and change, at ll** ; springs rise 22 ft. The tides run with great
velocity, the flood to N.E.

0HIJIK8K OVLF, forming the N.E. portion of the Sea of Okhotsk, is but
very little known in a nautical view. Its entrance lies between Cape Utkolokski,
on Kamchatka, in lat. 57° 50' N., long. 157° 18' E., and Cape Bligan, in lat.
58° 40', long. 151° 35'. Within this line it extends about 150 miles in a N.E.
direction, when it divides into two narrower gulfs, separated by the promontory
terminating in Cape Taigcnots.

Fenjinak Onlf, the eastern arm, extends as far North as lat. 62° 25', and its
shores are quite unknown. Puttareik, according to M. Lesseps, in 1788, in
about lat. 61° 0' N., long. 162° 30' E., is a small village on the side of a hill,
the foot of which is bathed by the sea. The river cannot be called such ; it is
merely a narrow inlet of the sea, reaching to the foot of the above mountain.
Kaminoi, at the head of the gulf, is an ottrog, or village, about 300 versts distant
from Pustaresk. It is on an elevation nearly on the sea shore, and at the mouth
of the Eiver Fenjina, in lat. 62° 0' N., long. 162° 50' E.

The western gulf extends about 90 miles to the northward, shoaling gra>
dually towards its head. From Cape Telanaki, a bold headland, with an island
off it, on the East side of its entrance, to Oighiga River, at its head, the coast
consists of bold precipitous cliffs, with small indentations here and there. At
21 miles N. ^ W. of Cape Telanski is Cape Khalpih, off which lie the cliffy
Morskaia Matuga Iilandt, the one nearest the cape, about 250 ft. high, having
a high tower-like bluff on its northern face. Cape Varchalam, 25 miles to the
northward, should be approached with great caution, sunken rocks lying off it.

«i

GIIIJINSK GULF— OKHOTSK.

745

Oighiga Biver is navigable for vessels of light draught. At the entrance
is a trading station, and 1 2 miles up the river is Ghij'ega, the Russian settle*
ment. During the open season njixed bright light is shown from a small light*
house on the East bank of the entrance. It is high wateri on fuU and change,
atS**; springs rise 24 ft.

Oh^ega, or Fort Ghijimk or Jijiginsk, in lat. 62° 10', long, 160° 15', at the
head of the gulf to which it gives its name, stands on the river of the same
name, and frora without appears as a square enclosure defended by a palisade,
according to M. de Lesseps. The houses are all of wood, very low, and nearly
all of a uniform elevation. The population were all members of, or attached
to, the Russian service, and numbered 310 in 1881. The commerce is chiefly
in furs, and that principally reindeer skins. Reindeer flesh and salmon can be
procured here.

" The Ghijinsk of the charts is situated on the riv«r of the same name, about

8 miles frora the coast of the Ghijinsk Gulf It is an insigaificant village of
200 or 300 people, but it has more importance than its size would lead to the
belief. It is the seat of the local government, and is a centre of trade with
regard to the fur trade of the district. It is also the only place for several
hundred miles around where the poor Russian settler, or the semi-civilized
Kamtchatdale, can get any teo, sugar, or vodka (whiskey). The governor, or
Isprasnik, has only 25 Cossacks under him, and has no power to visit a
hundredth part of his immense territory." — Mr. Whymper.

It was made one of the stations of the intended Western Union Telegraph
icute. Mr. Knox, who came here in the summer of 1866, in charge of this
part of the expedition, docs not describe it cs a terrestrial paradise, the climate
being very unhealthy.

The North Coast of the Sea of Okhotsk, from Ghijinsk Bay to Okhotsk, a
distance of 400 miles westward, is almost unknown, and we can therefore give
no description of it.

OKHOTSK was formerly the principal seaport, if it deserve such a name, of
the sea to which it gives the appellation. It stands on the N.W. side of the
sea, in lat. 59° 20' N., long. 143'' 14' E.

The shallowness of the water a long way off from the entrance of the harbour,
and the violence and cross set of the tides ot the harbour's mouth, preclude
the possibility of Okhotsk being an easily accessible port, except for a small
vessel. The river, which is only accessible from June to September, has only

9 ft. water in its mouth.

Okhotsk was visited by Sir George Simpson in his overland journey. He
arrived here fron; Sitka, June 27th, 1842. " Okhotsk, now that we had reached
it, appeared to have little to recommend it to our favour, standing on a shingly
beach so low and flat ns not to be distinguished at our distance from the adjacent
waters. We saw nothing but a number of wretched buildings, which seemed
^orth Pacijic, 5

::l

746

THE SEA OP OKHOTSK.

to be in the sea, just as much as ourselves ; while, from their irregukrity, they
looked as if actually afloat ; and even of this miserable prospect one of the cha>
racteristio fogs of this port of the world begrudged us fully one-half."
' The tongue of knd, about three-quarters of a mile in length, and one-quarter
of a mile in width, is so little elevated above the level of the sea, that when the
southerly wind blows hard or continues long, the whole is almost sure to be in-
undated. The town lies about half a mile distant, situated on the left bank of
the Kuchtui.

A more dreary scene can scarcely be conceived. Not a tree, and hardly even
a green blade, is to be seen within miles of the town, and a stagnant marsh in
the midst of it must be, except when it is frozen, a nursery for all sorts of ma-
laria. The soil is on a par with the climate. Summer consists of three months
of damp and chilly weather, succeeded by nine months of dreary winter, as raw
as it is intense. The principal food of the inhabitants is fish, which is also the
staple food of the cattle and poultry. The Sea of Okhotsk yields as many as
fourteen varieties of the salmon alone, one of them, the ncrker, being the finest
thing of the kind ever tasted. On such fare, and in such a climate, no people
could be healthy. Scurvy, in particular, rages here every winter.

Okhotsk has declined since Nicolaicfski was established, the interest having
been much drawn to the latter place. In 1881 there were about 200 inhabit-
ants, existing by trading in furs and fish for the necessaries of life. There is
communication with Europe once a month, vi& Irkutsk.

Bad as the Harbour of Okhotsk is, it is believed to be the best in the Sea of
Okhotsk. The const between Okhotsk and Fort Oudskoi hns been surveyed
by the Russian Vice- Admirals Sarytscheff and Tominc, so we may suppose them
to be well represented on the charts.

For 30 miles south-westward of Okhotsk, or as far as Ulya, the coast is low,
but from thence to Port Aian, a distance of 210 miles, the shore is composed
of high cliffs, with mountainous peaks inland. Alcioma Bay, in lat. 56° 50' N.,
is sheltered by l^urki Peninsula, and good anchorage may be obtained hera in
3 to 5 fathoms, only open to winds between S.S.W. and S.E. by E.

FORT AIAN or Ayan, on the western coast of the Sea of Okhotsk, may be
recognized from the southward by Ca/e Vneshni or Outer Cape, a high barren
promontory with several craggy peaks upon it, at a mile eastward of its eastern
point of entrance, and in lat. 56° 25' 28" N., long. 138° 21' E. The coast in
the neighbourhood is high and bold, with whitish-colom'ed cliffs.

The inner part of the port is from one-quarter to half a mile wide, and
three-quarters of a mile deep, and affords good shelter for small vessels, in 2
to 5 fathoms, muddy bottom, only exposed to winds between South and S.E.
The outer part, with 8 to 12 fathoms over good holding ground, is exposed to
S.W. and southerly winds, which send in a heavy sea. On the West side of
the entrance is a reef of rocks, with 4 fathoms close-to, barely covered at high
water; the eastern shore is steep, and may be closely approached. The little

I i^.^

PORT AlAN— SIIANTAR ISLANDS.

747

rity, they
' the cha-

e-quarter

when the

to be in-

ft bank of

wdly even
marsh in
)rt9 of ma-
ec inontha
ter, as raw
is also the
s many as
g the finest
no people

est having

00 inhabit-
There is

the Sea of
n surveyed
ppose them

oast is low,

1 composed
66° 50' N.,
ned hera in

tsk, may be
ligh barren
f its eastern
be coast in

wide, and
essels, in 2
th and S.E.
exposed to
'^est side of
Ted at high

The little

settlement lies in a valley on the N.E. side of the bay. This locality is noted
for the quality of its sables.

The climate here is abominable, and fogs are uninterrupted ; the ice breaks
up in June, and snow does not always disappear before August. The port is
frozen over in November. It is high water, on full and change, at 12'' ; springs
rise about 10 ft.

Supplies are scarce in Fort Aian, and difficult to be obtained, beef only
being procurable, but fire-wood is plentiful. To the southward of the entrance
is a sandy buy, in which the soundings appear to bo regular, and where water
may be conveniently procured, or it may be obtained from a small stream on
the West side of the bay. Scurvy is common and fatal among the inhabitants,
but the wild rhubarb, growing close to the sea in many parts of the harbour,
is of great service as an anti-scorbutic*

From Port Aian the coast, bold and steep-to, trends 135 riles to the S.W.,
to the bead of Oudsky Bay. Norlh-eatt Harbour, in lat. 55° 10', is said to
afford anchorage.

JONAS or St, Jona Island, a collection of naked rocks, discovered by Capt.
Billings in the Russian corvette Slava Jiossii, lies off this portion of the coast.
It is about 2 miles in circumference, and 1,200 ft. high, lying in lat. 56° 23' N.,
long. 143° 16' E. Except off its West side, this islet is entirely surrounded by
detached rocks, against which the waves beat with great violence, and which
extend a considerable distance below the surface of the water. With the island
bearing North, distant 12 miles, Kruscnstcru had 12 fathoms water.

SHANTAB or Shantarski Islands, in the western part of the Sea of
Okhotsk, were surveyed by Lieut. Kosmin, who accompanied Capt. Wrangel in
his Siberian expeditions. From that survey it appears that the principal of
the group is Great Shanlar Island, which is 35 miles long, in an East and
West direction, and of an equal breadth from North to South. Notwithstand-
ing this extent of coast, it does not appear to afford any port, but the S.W.
point of the island projects to the S.W., so as to form an open bay to the east-
ward of it. Between this point and Cape Nikla and Dougangen, the nearest
-^"'^t of the continent, 14 rniles distant, are two islets, Barrier and Duck Islands,
surrounded by rocks and reefs ; one of these rocks is 30 ft. high.

The North point of Great Shantar is in lat. 65° 11' N., long. 137° 40' E. 5
its South point is in lat. 54° 36'. To the South of it are some smaller islands,

* Aynn was visited liy the allied squadron, and taken poHewion of on July 10th, 1865.
Mr. J. M. Tronson, who waa on board H.M.S. Barraeouta, gives a description of the place,,
and their visit (pp. 123 - 132). Ho says, " As we entered the port we could not but admira
the beautiful scenery of this calm retreat, notwithstanding our warlike mission. On each
side of the port a prominont headland projects. Ayan was formerly a post of tho Hussian-
American Company, but owing to tho competition of the numerous whalers, who all traded
with the natives, it had givon up all busineu on the coast before tho tr»nsfer of their in-
terest to the United States.

■I':

i i

■

I ■;

SAGHALIN ISLAND.

and to the East of it nrc two islands, one in lat. 55" 5', long. 138° 22', called
Proko/ief, the other, in lat. 54° 43', long. 138° 12', KoasBoff. At 6 miles West
of Great Shantar Island is Feklistojf hland, 20 miles in extent, from N.E. to
S.W., its breadth being about one-half. This island has also no port or shelter,
and off its West side lies Sugarloaf hland.

Southward of Shantar Islands the coast is indented by several deep inlets.
Oudaky Bay, westward of the islands, has a convenient depth for anchorage,
but appears to be very exposed. At its head is the mouth of the River Ouda,
In Int. 54° 41' N., long. 134° 27' E., about 20 miles up which is Fort Ouda or
Oudskoi, a considerable establishment, determined by Lieut. Kosmin, in 1829-
1830, to be in Int. 54° 29', long. 134° 68'.

From the mouth of the River Ouda the coast, for an extent of 50 miles, runs
nearly in an East direction to a point behind which is a small bay named the
Day of Swans. The western point of this bay is Cape Dotigandsha, and east-
ward of this, to the mouth of the River Tugur, the coast runs South, and forms,
with a promontory lying to the eastward named Cape Linekinskoy, the Day of
Tugursk, the opening of which is about 1 2 miles wide, and the depth about 35
miles. The Hiver Ttigur falls into the head of the bay in lat. 53° 45'. Tugursk
Bay and Iliver were partially examined, in 1806, by an ofRcer of the Kussiun
Navy, BorissofT.

Eastward of Tugursk Bay is another extensive bay named Oulbanski; there
is reported to be anchorage in Akademie Gulf, at its head, and also in Con-
stanline Day on its West shore. Separated from the East side of this boy by
a peninsula is St. Nicholas or Usalghin Day, of which little is known. Wc
have no description of the coast eastward of this, to the northern entrance of
the Gulf of Amur.

SAGHALIN ISLAND.

The name applied to this great island is derived from the Mnntehus, who
thus call it after their river, Saglialin Ula, the Amur, which falls into the sea
opposite the N.W. coast of this island. Besides the term Saghalin, geographers
have given it the names of Oku-Jcsso, Krafto or Karafta, Tschoka, and Sandan.
It is called Tarakai by the natives, and Kara/uto by the Japanese. It now
belongs to the Russians, the Japanese having ceded their portion of the island,
in 1875, in exchange for the Russian islands of the Kurile Archipelago.

The natives are comparatively very few in number ; scarcely any signs
whatever were seen on all the eastern side by Capt. Krusenstern, who closely
examined this coast, and from the second volume of whose voyage some of
the subsequent particulars arc taken. They were principally found in the ser-
vice of the Japanese in Aniwa Bay. They are colled Ainos, as are the natives
of the adjacent Island of Yezo, and are certainly the same people that, since
Spanberjs's time, have been called Hairy Kuriles. The Ainos are rather below

(il

SAGHALIN ISLAND.

740

22', called
miles West
m N.E. to
t or shelter,

Icep inlets,
anchorage,
'iiver Ottda,
>rt Ouda or
in, in 1829-

) miles, runs
named the
a, and cast-
I, and forms,
, the Bay of
th about 35
5'. Tugursk
the Bussiun

inski; there
ilso in Con-

this bay by
nown. Wc

cntiance of

ntchus, who
into the sea
geographers
and Sandan.
ise. It now
sf the island,
)clago.

ly any signs
who closely
'Hge some of
id in the ser-
■e the natives
le that, since
rather bolow

tlie middle stature ; of a dark, nearly black, complexion, with a thick bushy
beard, and black, rough, straight hair ; except in the beard, they resemble the
Kamchadalcs. The women are ugly, but modest in the highest degree. Their
oharocteristio quality is goodness of heart, as is expressed in their countenance.
Their dress consists chiefly of the skins of seals and dogs, of which latter they
kotj,) great abundance. They appeared to live in the most happy way in their
domestic life. Capt. Krusenstera is inclined to doubt the ancient accounts of
its inhabitants.

The total population is estimated to number about 14,000. The southern
part of the island is inhabited by A'l'nos, about 2,000 in number, and the
northern part by Ghiliaks (Tartars), the latter about 3,000 in number, good
seamen and hunters. The Russians have about 3,000 troops here, mostly em-
ployed to guard the convicts working the coal mines. The principal occupation
of the natives is hunting and fishing, the chief articles of exports being fiirs
and fish.*

The Island of Saghalin extends in a North ond South direction about 512
miles ; its breadth, in general, does not exceed 70 miles ; but near its central
part it is nearly 100 miles in width. At its southern end it gradually tapers
off to two sharp points, enclosing a large bay between them, named by the
Dutch Aniwa Bay. The northern part, as well as the southern, terminates
in a bay, which Capt. Krusensteru called North Bay. There is no port in the
island which can bo termed a safe place of refuge.

The island is mountainous, and to the North of lat. 50° the range forms in
rocky peaks ; to the southward of this the hills slope gradually to the coast.
Two ranges extend respectively N.W. and N.E. from its southern extremes,
meeting in Bernizet Peak in lat. AT 33' N. Mount Tiara, 4,000 ft. high,
stands out prominently on the East side of the island, in about lat. 50° 6'.
There are no volcanos in Saghalin. The chief rivers are the Tymy, i nd the
Poronai or Ty, only navigable by boats ; the latter debouches into the head of
Patience Bay, and the former on the East coast, in lat. 5 1° 55' N. M. Foliakof,
who explored the island in 1881-2, states that the Tym is navigable for vessels
of 1 6 ft. draught, for a distance of about 3 miles.

The western coast is steep and cliffy, the eastern is low and sandy. The
middle district of the island is flat and swampy, but to the North it is hilly
and fertile. It is well wooded throughout with firs of various sorts, birch,
elm, &c., and large quantities of timber are exported to Japan for building
purposes. The climate is cold and damp, so that little or no agriculture can
be carried on.

There is coal in several parts of this island, and on its West side, around

• An intorcsling account of S.ighalin will bo found in the " Journal of tho Royal Geo-
graphical Society," 1872, pp. 373 — 388, being a Paper by Colonel Vcniukof, tranalatod
from tho Russian '>y Ciipt. Spalding. See, also, "Sagbilin from a Jitpaucao Bourco," in
tho "Geographical Mngiizinc," August, 1878, pp. 20')— 208.

wmmmmm

JLi

i
1

msBs^m

i I

750

SAGHALIN ISLAND.

Jonquiire Bay ond Dui, it rises to tho surface, and is c * fair quality. Gold,
copper, and iron also exist here. Whales arc found on tho East imd South
OOMts, salmon and herrings abound, and in the deep bay of Aniwn on tho
South, into which two large streams fall, tho Japanese established nn exten-
sive salmon fishery. The largest fishing station is at the head of Patience liny.
Water u abundant at all parts, and drift-wood for fuel is found in large quan-
tities along the western coast.

CAPE ELIZABETH, the North point of the island, is in lat. 64° 24' 30" N.,
long. 142° 47' E., and is a high mass of rock, forming the extremity of n con-
tinuous chain of mountains. It is very remarkable from a number of high
pointed hills, or rather naked rocks, upon which neither tree nor verdure is
visible. It descends gradually towards the sea, and at the brink of the ])rcci-
pice is a pinnacle or small peak. Seen from the West, it is exceedingly like
Capo Lopatka, except that it is higher.

Cape Mary, 18 miles W.S.W. from Cape Elizabeth, is in Int. 54° 17' 30",
long. 142° 17' 45" E. ; it is lower than Cape Elizabeth, and consists of a chnin
of hills all nearly of the same elevation. It slopes gently down to the sea, and
terminates in a steep precipice, from whence a dangerous reef runs to the N.E.
It is high water here, on full and change, at 2** ; the rise is about 5 ft.

Korth Bay fSivernaia GubaJ, which lies between these two capes, is very
open, but appeared to be safe, especially in summer, when Nortli winds are
rare. At I ^ mile off shore the depth is 9 fathoms, sand, gradually decreasing
to 3 fathoms, over excellent anchorage ground. There is a village nt the licad.

Sailing vessels should not approach Capes Elizabeth and Mnry within 20
miles, to avoid the current ; the winds are generally light and variable in-
shore. By standing over to the Tartary coast the current is weaker, and the
depth of water moderate, affording safe anchorage in case of fog or calm.

Nadiejeda Bay, or Nadethda Bay, about 10 miles to the S.E. of Cape Mary,
on the West coast, is rnther open, and consequently not safe for anchorage, as the
ground everywhere is rocky. It lies in lat. 54° 10' 15" N., long. 142° 27'34'E.
A plentiful supply of wood and water may easily be procured here. The
southern point of the bay was named Cape Horner, after Dr. Horner, tho
naturalist on board Krusenstem's ship the Nadiejeda. Obman Bay, 44 miles
southward of Cape Mary, has barely sufficient water in its entrance for boats.

The N.W. const of Snghnlin is infinitely preferable to the S.W. ; between
the mountains, which are entirely overgrown with the thickest forests, aro
valleys which appear very capable of cultivation. The shores are broken, and
nro almost everywhere of a yellow colour, which gives the coast the appearance
of being hemmed in by an artificial wall. The confines of the high and low
lands are precisely in the same parallel as on the opposite side ; and beyond
the limits, to the S.S.W., as far as the eye could reach, nothing could be seea
but the low sandy shore, with here and there a few insulated but picturesque
sand-hills.

CAPE LOWENSTERN.

751

Cape Oolovatoheff, in lat. 53" 25' N., long. 141° 55' E., forms with Cape
Bombrcg, on the coast of Tartniy, the northern entrance into the Qulf of
Amur.

As we shall hereafter allude to the Amur River and Qulf, we return again to
the North point, and proceed to describe the eastern coast of the island.

CAFE LOWENSTERN, in lat. 54° 3' 15" N., long. 14^' 15' E., was named
after Kruscnstcrn's third lieutenant. The appearance of the coast between this
cnpc and Capo Elizabeth is very dreary : no traces of vegetation are apparent,
and the M'holc coast is ironbound, consisting of one mass of black granite rock,
with here and there a white spot ; the depth at 3 miles off shore was 30 fathoms,
rocky bottom. In front of Cape Luwenstcrn there is a large rock. South-
ward of it the shore is everywhere steep, and in several places consists of rocks
of a chalk-like appearance.

Cape Elokatcheff is stated to be in lat. 53° 46' N., long. 143° 7' £., and near
it appeared to be the mouth of a considerable river, bs the land appeared to bo
unconnected. Cape Wurst, or J''irsl, is in lat. 53°, long. 143° 30'. A long
way inland there arc several considerable high lands, the coast being, as far as
the eye can reach, composed of flat sand. Shoal Point, or Cape Otmeloi, in
lat. 52° 34', long. 143° 27', may easily be known by a hill of tolerable height,
which on this flat coast almost merits the name of a mountain, and forms a
very remarkable object. At this point the coast recedes to the westward, and
here a damjerous shoal lies. It is in lat. 52° 30' N., and stretches probably for
some miles North and South at a distance of 10 miles from the shore. This is
the on^y one mot with off the const, and has 4^ to 8 fathoms on its outer edge.

DoiohS Point, in lat. 51° 53' N., is remarkable for a round hill. To the
northward of it is a chain of five hills, of a billowy form, having the appearance
of islands in this extended plain. The whole coast here, like that to the south-
ward, is scarcely raised above the water'3 edge. Near here the River Tymy
debouches.

Cape Delisle, named after the astronomer Delisle dc la Croyere, is in lat.
51° 0' 30", long. 143° 43', and forms the boundary of the mountainous part of
Saghalin, for to the northward of it there is neither high laud nor a single
mountain, the shore everywhere consisting of sand, of a most dangerous uni>
formity.

Cape Batmanoff, in lat. 60° 48' N., long. 143' 55' E., terminates in a flat
neck of land, stretching a considerable distance into the sea. The coast here-
abouts is invariably craggy, and of a yellow colour. Cape liimnik is in lut.
50° 12' 80", long. 144° 5' E., and at the back of it, some miles inland, is Mount
Tiara, so named by Krusenstem from its form, a flat hill, 4,000 ft. high, re-
markable for having three points on its summit. It is in lat. 50° 3' N., long.
143° 35' E. From its parallel the coast trends to S.S.E.

Cape Bellingshansen is in lat. 49° 35' N., long. 144° 25' 45" E., and at 7
miles S.S.W. of it is a point which was thought to offer a good harboui'. The

%\:

11 -

;

• I

! I

[

III

702

SAGUALIN ISLAND.

■bore is vcrj- abrupt, and entirely white. Flat Bay, in lat. 49° 5', is surrounded
on all sides by very low country. It is a deep opening, in which even from the
mast-head no land could bo descried.

Cape Patience, the most prominent and the easternmost capo of Saghalin,
is in lat. 48° 52' N., long. 144° 40' 15' E., and is a very low promontory,
formed by a double hill, tcrminnting abruptly. From this a flat tongue of lund
projects some distance to the South. The flat hill near Flat Buy is the first
high land in that direction. By this hill Cnpe Patience, which, owing to its
little elevation, is not easily perceived, may soon bo recognised. The cape is
surrounded by a rocky shoal, extending a considerable distance off shore.

Bobben Island, or Tuileni, surrounded by a very dangerous reef, lies off
Cope Patience. Capt. Krusenstern saw and examined the extent of this reef.
The N.E. front he places in lat 48° 36', long. 144° 83', and that part which
may be considered as the S.W, extremity is in lat. 48° 28', long. 144° 10' F.,
so that its whole circumference is about 35 miles. The middle of Bobben
Island is in \a.*. 48° 32' 15", long. 144° 23', about S.W. \ S., 22 miles from
Cnpe Patience. The channel between the cape and the reef was not examined.

PATIENCE BAT is extensive, and limited to the East by the cape of tho
same name, and to the West by Cape Soimonoff. The ship Cuslricom, under
the Dutch commander Do Vries, anchored here in 1643, and gave tho names
to the bay, &e. Its North const is craggy and mountainous, and far inland arc
lofty mountains.

In the N.W. comer of the bay is the mouth of a tolerably large river, named
the Ny or Neva; its entrance, in lat. 49° 14' 40", long. 143° 10', is about half
a mile wide. Off its mouth the water wos fresher, and branches of trees were
among the clayey soundings. Near its entrance is Tichmenev, a Russian post,
A smoUer river debouches to the southward.

Cape Notetn, Saimanov, or Soimonoff, in lat. 48° 53' 20', long. 143° 2', is
the western limit of Patience Bay ; it is a high promontory, projecting very
much to the eastward. Cape DalrympU, named after the English hydro*
grapher, is in lat. 48° 21' N., long. 142° 44'. It is formed by a high mountain,
lying close upon the beach in a North and South direction, and is the more
easily known from being altogether isolated. Hence the coast trends S.S.W.,
consisting of lofty mountains, divided by deep valleys, the shore being steep
and rocky. The whole country is more agreeable in prospect than farther
South. Cape Muloffsky, a projecting point of land, is in lat. 47° 57' 45 ', long.
142° 34'. Bernizet Peak of La Porouse is probably the same as Mount Spanberg
of the Dutch. It is a lofty, rounded mountain, in lat. 47° 33', long. 142° 20',
and is also known as Mount Lopatinsky.

Cape Seniavine is a high point of land, in lat. 47° 16' 30", long. 142° 59' 30'.
To the northward of it the coast is low, and falls suddenly off to the westward ;
to the southward are lofty mountains.

MorlovinoT Bay lies to the southward of this, and is limited to the East by

ANIWA BAY— CAPE NOTOllO.

753

rounclcd
rom the

laghalin,
montory,
e of luud
the fiiHt
[ig to its
} cape ia
ore.

f, lies off
this reef.
U't which
1° 10' E.,
f Robbcn
iiiles from
examined,
ipc of tlio
•om, under
the names
inland arc

ver, named
nbout half
■ trees were
ussian post.

143" 2', is
ecting very
;li8h hydro-
h moimtnin,
is the more
inds S.S.W.,

being steep
than farther
)7' 45', long.
ml Spanherg
ag. 142= 20',

142° 59' 30".
tie westward ;

,0 the East bjr

Cape Tonln. Plenty of water was found in it in many places, and abundance
of firewood. Cape Tonin, in lat. 4G° 50', long. 143° 27' 30", is of moderate
height, and entirely overgrown with fir trees. A chain of rocks strctohcs to
the northward from it.

Cape Lowenorn, or Leveion, in lat. 46*^ 23' 10", long. 143° 38', is a steep
projecting rock, easily to be distinguished from the rest of this coast by itis
yellow colour. North of it the coast assumes a more westerly direction, and
consists of a chain of largo lofty mountains.

CAFE SIRETOKO, or Aniwa, the S.K. projection of Snghalin, is in every
respect a remarkable promontory, the more so from a chain of high mountains
near it, stretching away to the northward, between which and tho capo is a
hollow that gives it the appearance of a saddle. Tlic headland itself is a steep,
abrupt mass of rocks, perfectly barren, and having a deep inlet at its point.
The position was very carefully observed by Captain Krusenstern ; it is in lat.
46° 2' 20' N., long. 143° 25' E.

ANIWA BAY, occupying tho southern end of Saghalin, is an extensive
bight, about 45 miles deep, its entrance being GO miles wide between Capo
Siretoko and Cape Notoro to the East. From Capo Aniwa the coast runs first
in a northerly direction, and then inclines to the West to a headland, which
projects also to the West, and from this, as far as the head of the bay, it runs
North and South. In this part of tho coast is a rock cilled tho Pyramid on
tho charts. The West side of tho bay is throughout very mountainous. A flat
and rather projecting mountain, in tho direction of the coast, which trends
S.S.W., is alone distinguished for its greater height.

Aniwa Bay is open to the southward, but tho holding ground is good; along
its West shore, in depths less than 10 fathoms, the bottom is soft mud. In
winter broken ice is met with, but only at a short distance from the coast.
Water is inferior, and difficult to procure ; firo-wood can be obtaim d, but no
provisions, except fish, which is abundant.

CAPE NOTOBO, Crillon, or Krilon, the S.W. limit of Aniwa Bay, and tho
South extremity of Saghalin, from a distance of 10 or 12 miles makes like an
island. On its summit, 124 ft. high, is a small shrine, and 4 miles North of the
cape is a conspicuous hill. Quoin Hill, which rises abruptly from the shore to
nn elevation of 1,025 ft. A range of hills, varying from 800 to 1,200 ft. in
height, amongst which is one of sugar-loaf form, stretches along the coast to
the N.E. of Quoin Hill. Ilecfs of straggling rocks border the cape at a dis-
tance of 2 to 3 cables, and off its West sido some of them extend a consider-
able distonce. On the latter side, and 3 miles from the cape, near a Japanese
fishing-station, is an extensive patch of dangerous rocks, covered at high
water, lying about a mile off shore. A heavy tide-rnco is often met with off
the cape.

The LIGHTHOUSE on Cape Notoro, established in 1883, is 30 ft. high, and
North Pacific. 5 p

784

SAOHALIN ISLAND.

exhibits t^Jixtd light, elevated 135 ft., and visible 13 miles. The light is bright
over the bay and seaward between N.E. } E. and S.E., southerly ; rid thence,
over Kamen Opasnosti or Dangerous Bock, to S.E. by S. } S. ; and bright
thence, southward and westward, to N.W. ^ N. Its position is lat. 46° 64' N,,
long. 142° 2' E.

Fog Signals. — Near the lighthouse a Bell and Gun are established for Fog
Signals,

Kamen Opauoiti, named Dangerout Rock by La P^rouse, Similes S.E. ^ S.
from Cape Notoro, is about 20 ft. high, and 60 ft. in diameter, frequented by
sea-lions. It should not be approached nearer than a mile, as dangerous rocky
ledges extend around it A less depth than 20 fitthoms, when in its vicinity,
indicates close proximity.

Tsiiia or Tishia Rook, 72 ft. high, conspicuously marks the position of the
point of the some name, at 8^ miles N.E. by N. of the summit of Cape Notoro.
From the rock the coast trends to the N.N.E. towards the head of Aniwa Bay ;
at 2 miles from it is a reef, three-quarters of a mile o£f shore. AncV ige mny
bo taken in 8 or 12 fathoms anywhere along the coast between Ci. Notoro
and Tsisia Bock. Qood shelter may bo obtained here, and also farther to the
northward in the bight of the bay, from the prevalent autumnal ond winter
gales. Water was obtained by H.M.S. Aolteon at a small stream 2 miles
northward of the cape.

At its head Aniwa Bay forms a bay named Losotei, Lachi/orelUn, or Salmon
Rag, on the shore of which are some settlements. It is entirely exposed to the
South, which oi'e here said to be the prevailing winds, and consequently the
road is by no means safe. The great surf is also an obstacle to landing. The
Japanese had here also a large establishment, and Krusenstcrn's anchorage off
it was in lat. 46° 41' 15", long. 142° 32'. The Japanese factory, at the mouth
of the small river, bore N. 49° W., 2 J miles.

On the East side of this bay is Kuahankotan, a settlement composed of a few
wooden houses and wretched huts, close to which the Shikawa or Salmon Biver
flows into the bay. The point southward of Kushankotan runs out shoal, and
should not bo approached within 2 miles. Kartakovak, about 3 miles south,
ward of Kushankotan, is a military settlement, with some Japanese villages
southward of it. The flagstaff is conspicuous. There is anchorage off Kushan>
kotan, in 6 fathoms, sand and mud, about 1 mile from the beach, with the
village bearing E. by S. ^ S. ; a shoal is said to lie S.S.W. of this anchorage.
Also off Karsakovsk there is anchorage in 5 or 6 fathoms, at about a mile from
the shore, the settlement bearing East. Tamary Aniwa is apparently the name
given by the Dutch to the projecting point on the East side of this bay.

Tobootchi Bay, on the East side of Aniwa Bay, in lat. 46° 29' N., is a
shallow basin with 3j^ fathoms in its deepest part. The entrance is be-
tween sand-banks extending from the shore, nnd has only 9 ft. on the bar;
two beacons in line on Klykoff Point, the southern point, E.N.E., lead in. On

h-*^_

LA PEllOUSE STRAIT.

ht !■ bright
rtd thcncp,
and bright
48° 64' N.,

led for Fog;

es S.E. i S.
[juented by
srouo rocky
to vicinity,

tion of the
ipe Notoro.
iniwa Bay ;
igo mny
Notoro
thcr to the
nnd winter
im 2 miles

or Salmon
oscd to the
[uently the
ding. The
chorage off

the mouth

ed of a few
Imon Bivcr
; shoal, and
tiles south,
ise villages
iff Kushan<
, with the
anchorage.
1 mile from
y the name
bay.

y N., is a
ace ic be-
>n the bar;
ad in. On

the soutiicm shore of this bay are the Huasiaa scttlemcnU of Douuit and
Mouravieff.

LA PEROUSE STRAIT.

This strait is formed between Capo Notoro, the southern end of Snghalin,
and Capo Soya, the North extreme of Yezo, about 23 miles apart. The gcnoriil
soundings in it are 35 to 40 fathoms and upwards, decreasing to 25 and 2U fa-
thoms as the shores are ncared ; but as these latter depths will be found in the
middle of the strait near Dangerous Rook and in other places, the load in thick
weather cannot always be trusted to ensure safety.

There are heavy overfalls, giving the appearance of a reef, between Cape
Notoro and Dangerous Rock, but deep water was found in passing through.
Neither this capo nor Cape Nossyab should bo closed by a sailing vessel with-
out a commanding breeze, on account of the tide-raco off them.

Reftmsiri Island, lying off the South sido of the western entrance to La
P6rousc Strait, is in shape an acute-angled triangle, 1 1 miles long North nnd
South, nnd Z\ miles wide at the base which is iU North end, where there is a
shalU .V bay, with rather a populous village. The summit of a range of hills,
the highest part of which is nearly in the centre of the island, attains an eleva-
tion f 1,300 ft., but it is so close to Pic do Langle on Risiri as to appear to the
eye much lower. The island is cultivated, but only a few fowls, fish, and water
can be obtained.

The shores of this island appear to be clear of outlying dangers, except tho
North end, where foul ground appears to extend 8 or miles northward, a
dangerous rock, with only 8 ft. water over it, lying at the extremity. Nearly
2 miles North of the N.E. point of the island, and about East 2^ miles from
Boma$iri, an islet 1 mile northward of the N.W. point of the island, is a dan-
gerous rock, discovered by H.M.S. Billern,in 1855, but it nearly always breaks.
Barriok Rock, a doubtful danger, is said to lie about 7 miles westward of the
islond, in lat. 45° 93', long. 140° 41'.

Bisiri Island is aVout 6 miles S.E. of Refunsiri, and the passage between
them, and also that between Risiri and Yezo, are both quite clear of all known
danger, and may safely be taken. This island, from ite great height, becomest
for vessels approaching from the southward, a conspicuous mark for the West
entrance of La PSrouse Strait. It is nearly circular in shape, with a generally
low shore rising abruptly from the sea. No dangers of any importance aro
known in its vicinity ; a few detached rocks exist, but they lie close inshore.
It was first seen by La Ferouse, who took it for a mountain on the mainland
of Yezo, and named it Pic de Langle. Its summit attains on elevation of 5,900
feet, and may be seen in clear weather from a distance of 70 or 80 miles. It
is generally capped with snow, and often peers out most usefully above the
harassing fogs. According to Capt. Krusenstern's observations, it is in lat.

^%?

t i

7S&

LA PEROUSE STRAIT.

45<» 11' N., long. 141° 12' 15" E., and it is probably the mountain which the
Datch called Blyde Berg.

A bluff point, called Nallo Head, jutting out on the N.E. side of thu island,
forms a small bay, which affords ehelter froni S.E., round by West, to North.
The holding ground is good ; the best anchorage is in the N.W. part of the
bay, in 6 to 7 fathoms. There is a small village on the West side. The tide
riKS about 4 ft. at springs, and the current in the vicinity of these islands sets
to the N.E., from 1 to 1^ knot an hour.

Totomosiri, or Monneron Island, lying N.W. J W., 40 miles from Capo
Notoro, is 1,400 ft. high, without the volcanic appearance of Refunsiri or of
Risiri. There are three rocks awash lying about a mile off its eastern shore,
and mother about a mile off its N.E. point. There is a spring on Totomosiri,
from which whalers are in the habit of watering, but with great difficulty and
labour.

CAFE NOSSTAB, the N.W. point of Yezo Island, was named Romamoff
by Krusenstern, and is in lat. 45° 27' 30" N., long. HI" 36' E. It is the
abrupt but rather sloping termination of a remarkable tabic land, and appears
like an island at a distance. Extending a mile northward from the cape is a
flat, narrow tongue of land, only a few feet above the sea, having upon it a few
huts and a fishing station. From the extreme point of this low land a shoal,
rocky spit, partly covered with weed, extends N.N.W. upwards of a mile, with
but little water over it in places, and at its extremity a depth of 2^ fathoms,
which rapidly deepens to 6 and 7 fathoms.

At 6 or 7 miles southward of Cape Nossyab there is anchorage in 12 fathoms
in u small bay, with the cape bearing N.N.E., and the summit of Risiri
S.W. by W. J W. The shore here is low and swampy.

CAPE SOT A, the North extreme of Yezo, 14 miles E.N.E. of Cape Nossyab,
may easily be recognized, sometimes even in a fog, by a remarkable white rock
lying off it to the westward, and which appears to be surrounded with broken
groimd. Reefs extend seme distance off the cape, and a reef awash is reported
to lie 7 or 8 miles E.S.E. of it.

Bomanzov Bay, between Capes Nossyab and Soya, is an extensive bay, in
which the land, covered with rank verdure, slopes towards the sea margin.
Several huts are distributed along the shores of the bay ; and about 5 miles
S.W. from Cape Soya is a large Japanese village or fishing station. Reefs ex-
tend along the East and South shores of the bay, so that a vessel intending to
take shelter here should be careful to keep 3 or 4 miles off shore, where there
is bad anchorage in 17 or 18 fathoms. The Nadiijeda, Capt. Krusenstern's
ship, anchored in this bay, at the entrance of a small bay in its southern part,
«t 2 miles from the nearest shore, in 9 fathoms, an excellent bottom of fine
sand and mud.

The Island of Yezo will be described hereafter.

H.M.S. Actaon, in Se2'ti;i..l'er, 1859, while engaged in surveying the islands

THE GULP OF TARTARY.

757

un which the

i of thu island,
rest, to North.
V. part of the
ide. The tide
;8e islands sets

les from Cape
lefunsiri or of
eastern shore,
on Totomosiri,
t difficulty and

led Romanzoff
E. It is the
d, and appears
the cape is a
g upon it a few
' land a shoal,
of a mile, with
of 2j^ fathoms,

in 12 fathoms
limit of Risiri

Cape Nossyab,
able white rock
d with broken
ash is reported

icnsive bay, in
c sea margin.

about 5 miles
on. Reefs ex-
el intending to
e, where there

Krusenstern's
southern part,
bottom of fine

,-i:

ng the islands

Bisiri and Refunsiri, was blown by a W.S.W. gale through the Strait of Ln
PSrouse, when the atmosphere was so laden with spray as to render it impossi-
ble to fix the position of the ship accurately.

Vessels bound through the strait from the east ird with an adverse wind,
would do well to stand across and work to windward in Aniwa Bay, where they
would have smooth water, no current, and perhaps find an eddy in their favour.

In and about La Perouse Strait the tides and currents are very irregular, and
they are probably much influenced by prevailing winds. They are felt mostly
inshore, particularly round Capes Notoro an 1 Nossyab, where at times they be-
come perfect races. It is high Avater near these capes, on full and change, be-
tween lO** and IP, and the rise is about 6 ft. 7; he flood sets to the East.

THE GULP OF TARTARY.

The entrance of the Gulf of Tartary, which insulates Snghalln, is 180 miles
wide between Cape Notoro and Cape Disappointment on the Tartary coast.

From Capo Disappointment, in lat. Ab° 48' N., the coast of Tortary or Man-
churia trends to the N.E., and forms, with the West coast of Saghalin Island,
which trends irregularly to the northward for 370 miles, the long channel
named the Gulf of Tartary, which communicates with the Gulf of Amur to the
northward by Tartary Strait. This strait may be considered to begin on the
parallel of about 51° N. ; on the parallel of Castries Bay the coasts converge
rapidly ; and abreast Cape Catherine, in SI** .'57' N., they are only 7 miles apart ;
17 miles farther North, between Capes Lazaref and Fogobi, they approach to
within 3^ miles ; nnd this is the gorge of the strait, and the entrance into the
Gulf of Amur.

The ports most frequented in the gulf are Barracouta Harbour and Castries
Bay on its western coast, and Dui, Jonqui^re Bay, and Kosounai on its eastern.
The anchorage alung the eastern coast is safe during the summer months, when
easterly winds prevail, aid there is generally fine weather ; but a vessel must
be prepared to weigh, should the wind veer to the West.*

The coast on both sides of the gulf is high, and there ore no striking land-
marks. The eastern shore is thickly wooded, and appears to be thinly in-
inhabited, the natives living chiefly on fish. No dangers have been observed,
and the soundings decrease gradually towards the shores.

The navigation of the gulf would be simple enough, but the fogs render it
dangerous, requiring the greatest caution to be observed. It has been remarked
by former voyagers, and this was confirmed by H.M. ships in 1855-6, that on

• Tho gulf was visjlod by H.M.S. Dwarf in 1873, nnd C»pt. B. W. Bax has given an
intircBting account of tfao chief potts in bis book, tnlitloi " The Ciuiaa of tho Dwarf in
tho Eitstern Seas," published ia 1876.

ZPS

758

THE GULF OF TAETARY.

nearing the land in these seas a vessel will frequently suddenly emerge from
the fog or find it lift. The inner bays arc rarely covered by fogs. The flood
tide sets to the northward, and the rise is from 5 to 7 ft.

Wood and water can be procured in abundance and with facility, on all parts
of the coast of the gulf, and cool, of fair quality, in any quantity, at Dui, close
southward of Jonqui^re Bay. Fish and wild fowl are plentiful. Very fine cod-
fish have been caught in soundings of from 73 to 30 fathoms.

Fogs. — From March till August fogs are almost continuous in the gulf, with
scarcely any clear interval for more than a day or two at a time ; they are most
prevalent and dense in June, and are immediately dispersed in N.W., West,
and S.W. winds ; the mercury is little affected by them. The prevalent winds
are described at the end of this work.

In August, September, and part of October, fair clear weather comes in
agreeable contrast, although in the latter month snow occasion;, lly fulls. The
change of weather about the middle of October is sudden, winter generally
usurping the v/armth of summer in a day, and setting in with all its vigour ;
at this period ice begins to form in Tcrtary Strait, and the season for sailing
vessels to be in the gulf on ordinary ocorsions must be considered as having
terminated. In winter, from Castries Bay to Dui, tuu siiuit is closed by ice
as far as the eye can roach. It begins to disappear early in April.

We now proceed to describe the shores of the gulf, commencing with the
West coast of Saghalin, and then the opposite coast of Tartary from Cape
Disappointment northward.

From Cape Notoro (p. 753) the West coast of Saghalin trends northward
for 40 miles to Nyassi Point, and is ii am 100 to 150 ft. in height. At 6 or 7
miles northward of Cape Notoro is a stream, an excellent watering place, with
anchorage off it in 9 to 10 fathoms, sand. North wai'd of Nyassi Point is
Nevelskoi Bay, consisting of numero'js small bights, with passages leading to
them between the reefs fronting *\e shore, of which Maucka Cove is the prin-
cipal. For the following and other information we are indebted to Captain
Anderson, S.S. Appin, 1880.

Maucka Cove, or Endtmyomo, in lat. 47° 3' N., is about 6 cables long East
and West by 3 cables wide, and is the head-quarters of a fishing company,
employing about 700 coolies. There is a small guard of llussian soldiers here.
The average depth in the cove is 4 to 5 fathoms, with room to moor a vessel
250 ft. long. Fine timber grows in the neighbouring valleys, and spars of any
size may be obtained. Potatoes and other vegetables are grown, and fresh
water can be procured from a stream. Coal has been found about a mile in*
land. Fish and game are plentiful.

To enter the cove, bring two poles in line S.E. ^ S., and steer for them,
letting go the first anchor when about half a cable within the reefs. Mount
Bernizet, or Lopatinsky, is an excellent landmark, rising in a sharp peak.

In the vicinity of Maucka, and to the southward, are several trading stations,

SAGHALIN ISLAND— SERTUNAI.

7fi9

emerge from
I. The flood

y, on nil parts

at Dui, close

iTery fine cod-

the gulf, with
they are most
N.W., West,
oyalent winds

ther comes in
ly fulls. The
iter generally
ill its vigour;
on for sailing
red as having
elosed by ice
•il.

acing with the
iry from Cape

nds northward
ht. At 6 or 7
ing place, with
yassi Point is
iges leading to
3ve is the prin-
ted to Captain

ables long East
hing company,
n soldiers here,
moor a vessel
ind spars of any
own, and fresh
ibout a mile in-

[ steer for them,
> reefs. Mount
harp peak,
trading stations*

with anchorage off each, more or less exposed to the northward. That off Pirols
is the next best to Maucka Cove.

Foro Tomari is a similar bight, 5 miles northward of Maucka Cove, with a
narrow entrance between the reefs. Notoro Point, 10 miles farther northward,
is triangular in shape, and conspicuous. Toubout or Notosama Bay, in lat.
47° 25y, is sheltered by reefs above water, and is about 6 cables in diameter,
with 4 to 6 fathoms water over it, affording shelter for one or two small vessels.
For 10 miles northward of this the coast consists of ciny cliffs.

EOBOimai. — Between lat. 47° 62' and 48° 2' the coast forms an open boy,
with low and sandy shores, affording a convenient landing when the sea is not
rough. Saghalin is here only 5 miles wide. At the head of this buy is
Kosounai, a Russian settlement of large white log houses, on the North side of
a small river. There are three pyramid beacons here, 40 ft. high. Game, fish,
and fire-wood are plentiful, and 3 miles northward there are large quantities
of coal.

At 30 miles North of Kosounai is Raitiiska River, with 4 ft. water on the
bar, leading to a lake. Northward of this, between lat. 48° 35' and 48° 60',
the coast is a steep bluff 800 ft. high, backed by high peaks. Sloukambiss
Point, in lat. 48" 43', is easily recognised by a white crescent-shaped patch on
the S.W. side of a hill inland. Tzilmetiev Bay, northward of this, is about 3
miles wide, but is a very insecure anchorage.

Orokes Bay, or Tany Kotan, the Bale d'Estaing of La P6rouse, in lat.
48° 56' N., aflbrds good anchorage in S.W. gales, but is open to winds between
W.S.W. and North. There is a depth of 6 fathoms at the entrance, decreasing
gradually to its head. Cape Oroj'i, or Baranov, in lat. 49° 23', rises to n
height of about 200 ft., and is backed by a fine grassy slope. About 7 miles
northward of this is Nyassi River, with 6 to 7 ft. on the bar, and a village on
its South side. Hereabout the bottom is rocky, and the depth irregular.

Sertunai, or Sokkota, is a small Russian post, 2^ miles northward of Nyassi
River, in the neighbourhood of which are some coal mines. The anchorage
here is bad. This locality was visited by Lloyd's agent at Alexnndrovski in
Castries Bay, in 1867. He says: — The coal mines at Najassee are in about
lat. 49° 35' to 49° 40'. I found that vessels can lie and load there, without
particular danger, in an open roadstead, the loading place being to the North of
the river. The depth of water, about 1 mile from shore, is 13 to 16 ft.,
deepening to 8 and 9 fathoms at 3 to 4 miles from shore. Weather mostly
calm during summer ; winds, from April to September, mostly moderate, from
N.E. to S.8.E. ; later, the winds turn over South to West, and cause the swell
to set towards Saghalin. During the spring fogs on the West side of the gulf,
the Saghalin coast remains nearly always and entirely clear.

Cape Votdvijenia, in lat. 49" 56', is a bluff about 100 ft. high, with a high
rock off it. Karsakov Bay, in lat. 50° 5', affords shelter from S.W. winds, and
has a village on its shore. Cape Piltoo, its South point, is surrounded by a

I
1

1
1
1

760

THE GULF OF TARTARY.

reef, and nearly half a mile from it are two rocks above water. From hence
aa far as Dui the coast is high and bold, and a reef is said to extend a short
distance off it. In lat. 50° 12' is KitouiiHill, a remarkable peak, 2,000 ft. high.
Koaakevitch Say, in lat. 50° 19', affords shelter from S.W. winds, in 18 ft.
water. In the vicinity are two sharp hills, about 6 miles apart, the southern
one lying 2 miles southward of the bay.

DUI, m about lat. 50° 50' N., long. 142° 5' E., is a Russian settlement on
the shores of a small bay formed by Cape Hoidji on the South, and Cape Otsisi
on the North. In the vicinity are a saw-mill and large coal mines, worked by
convicts. The coal, which is said to be nearly equal to North country coal for
steaming purposes, is largely shipped to Castries Bay, for the use of the Russian
squadron at Vladivostok and the Amur. It is loaded into boats from a pier
about a mile northward of the settlement ; its price is about 10 roubles (£1)
per ton. There is a telegraph cable to Castries Bay.

LIGHTHOUSE.— A square lighthouse, 40 ft. high, stands on the slope of a
hill overlooking the settlement, and from it is shown a Jlxed bright light, ele-
♦ated 374 ft., and visible 22 miles, between N. by E. J E. and S.W. i W. In
foggy weather a Bell is sounded slowly, but will be sounded rapidly when a
vessel's signal is heard. A Gun will be fired in answer to a gun fired at sea.

Cape Hoidji, near which is a waterfall, appears perpendicular from the south-
ward, gradually rising inland to a mountain summit. A reef extends nearly 6
cables N.W. by N. J N. from the cape, and is marked by two beacon buoys,
GO ft. apart, in 4|- and 4^ fathoms. Here the coast curves to the eastward,
with high red cliffs, broken by gullies. Cape Otsisi ends in a conical rock,
close to which are three remarkable pinnacle rocks, 50 ft. high; a reef extends
northward of the latter, the extremity being marked by a perch beacon.

Owing to the foggy weather, and the uncertainty of the current, it is ad-
visable to make the coast South of Cape Hoidji. The reef off this cape will be
cleared by keeping Cape Otsisi bearing N.E. until the lighthouse bears south-
ward of East, vhen steer for it. Small vessels can lie off the pier in 3 fathoms,
with the ligh* bouse bearing E.S.E. ; but larger vessels should anchor in 5 to G
fathomj, witn the pier bearing East, and Cape Hoidji S. by W. The anchorage
is only safe with easterly winds. A black mooring buoy lies in 5 fathoms, about
half a mile West of the pier.

JONQUIERE BAY, a small convict settlement, about 1^ mile N.E. of Cape
Otsisi, is in lat. 50° 54' N., and may be recognised by the rocks off that cape.
This bay should be looked upon only as a fine weather anchorage. It affords
shelter from N.E., round by the East, to South, but is exposed to oil other
winds, and the holding ground is mostly bad, with one or two good spots i.'i 7
to 9 fathoms.

A small river finds an outlet in the bay, and boats can poss over its bar
when the tide is in. A few native huts will be seen on the South side of the
entrance, and between these and Cape Otsisi, or Pinnacle Point, are scams of

JONQUIERE BAY— BAURACOUTA BAY.

761

From hence
extend a short
:, 2,000 ft. high,
nrinds, in 18 ft.
t, the southern

a settlement on
and Cape Otsisi
ines, worked by
country coal for
c of the Russian
ats from a pier
.0 roubles (£1)

a the slope of a
right light, ele-
S.W. iW. In
ropidly when a
;un fired at sea.
r from the south-
extends nearly 6
} beacon buoys,
o the eastward,
a conical rock,
i; a reef extends
h beacon,
urrent, it is ad-
this cape will be
•use bears south-
ier in 3 fathoms,
anchor in 5 to G
. Tlic anchorage
5 fathoms, about

ile N.E. of Cape
cs off that cape,
roge. It affords
)sed to all other
> good spots i.'i 7

ass over its bar
outh side of the
ut, are scams of

good surface coal, some of which, being close to the water's edge, can be easily
worked.

Large quantities of fish were taken in Jonqui^re Bay by hauling the seine
on the beach to the northward of the huts, and good sized flat-fish were caught
with hook and line about a quarter of a mile off shore, in 3 or 4 fathoms water.
Wild fowl and white hares are numerous. The watering place is inconvenient.
Drift-wood is plentiful. The natives are inoffensive and obliging.

Tides, — ^The time of high water, on full and change, in Jonqui^re Bay, is
lO**, and the rise is about 6 ft.

From Jonquiere Bay the coast trends to the N.N.W., and is bold of approach
as far as Cape Uandhi, from which to Cape Liak, at the entrance to the Strait
of Tartary, it appears as an immense plain, skirted by a shoal bank, with 5 to
6 fathoms at IJ mile off. Cape Tyk, in lat. 51° 40', is a low, sandy, project-
ing point, fringed with sand-hills.

Northward of Cape Tyk as far as Cape Golovache/, a distance of 100 miles,
the coast of Saghalin is mostly low and sandy, with numerous streams and la-
goons. On Cape Pogobi, in lat. 52° 12 J', at the narrow part of the entrance
to the Gulf of Amur, is a beacon ; this cape has a landslip on its southern side,
and a white house on its North side.

The West coast of Saghalin having thus been described, we now proceed
to give a description of the western coast of the Gulf of Tai'tary, siurveyed by
Colonel Bolshef in 1875.

Cape Disappointment, or Bielkyna, in lat. 45° 47' N., has rocks extending
a cable off it. When bearing N.N.E. the laud shows in three peaks, close
together. The coast to the north-eastward is hilly, and in lat. 47° 3' is Mount
liaross, 8,400 ft. high.

Suffirein Bay, formed by Cape Suffrein to the South, in lat. 47° 20' N., is
but an exposed anchorage, surroimded by vast forests which extend out of
sight. The cape is fronted by rocks, which stretch half a mile into the offing.
Grossevitcha Bay, or Fish River, in 47° ''5' N., has anchorage off its entrance
in 9 fathoms, at about a mile xrom the land, sheltered from N.W. and westerly
winds. Pestcha.iii or Low Point, in lat. 48° 28', lies between two bluff head-
lands, and there is a table-hill, 1,800 ft. high, a short distance westward of it.
A depth of 8 fathoms was obtained at a mile off shore.

From Low Cape the coost-liue northward is irregular for 15 miles ; its trend
is the.1 i\, by E. 20 miles to Beachy Head or St. Nicholas Point. It is wooded
and steep-to, the lead giving 14 to 17 fathoms at 2 miles off shore. High snowy
mountains are visible inland.

BAEBACOXJTA or Hadshi Bay. — The entrance to this bay (named, also.

Port Imperial), in lat. 49° 2' N., is between Freeman or MiUoutina Point on

the North, and Tullo Island on the South, which bear N. by W. and S. by E.,

about three-quarters of a mile apart. The general depths in the bay ore 5 to

North Pacijic. 6 £

762

THE GULF OF TARTARY.

\ 'I

! i

SJl

15 fathoms over a mud bottom. The entrance is open to the north-eastward,
but within the bay are several inlets, which afiPord sheltered anchorage for all
classes of vessels. The bay remains frozen for about the same time as Castries
Bay. Its shores are covered with wood fit for building purposes, such as the
larch, fir, and stone-pine. Wild fowl and fish can be obtained here. Russian
war-vessels resort to Pallas Bay for wood.*

The only danger is Carr Bank, with IJ and 2 fathoms on it, which extends
a cable oflf shore on the N.W. side of the entrance, one-third the distance be-
tween Sybille Head and Freeman Point. On the N.E. end of Tullo Island is
a white pyramid beacon, 27 ft. high, and there is a similar one on Pushiashina
or Hill Point, half a mile to the eastward.

Off the entrance of Babbington Harbour, the southern and largest inlet, is
Ustriiza, or Forlescue Island, IJ mile S.W. by W. from Tullo Island. This
inlet trends neorly 4 miles to the S.W., Imperial River flo'- 'ng into its head.
Zapadnaia or Pique Bay trends 3 miles westward, and on its North shore, 3
miles westward of Tullo Island, is the small Russian military settlement of
Konstantinovski, with a pier, on the shore of Pallas Bay. The best anchorage
in Barracouta Harbour is off this settlement, in 6 to 8 fathoms. Ice Harbour,
the northern inlet, is only 3 cables wide. It is high water in the harbour, on
full and change, at lO*" ; the rise is 3 to 4 ft.

In approaching the harbour from the northward, and having made Barren
Bluff, the centre one of three hills over Beachy Head forms a good mark to
lead to the entrance. Vessels from the southward should make the land near
Beachy Head. The beacons on Tullo Island and Hill Point indicate the en-
trance.

Vessels approaching the harbour in foggy weather should not shoal their
water under 40 or 35 fathoms, unless well assured of their position, and in all
cases due allowance must be made for currents. They are sometimes extremely
variable.

The COAST from Beachy Head trends in a northerly direction to Castries
Bay, and is steep-to ; 25 and 30 fathoms have been obtained at a cable's length
off Cape Byki, in lat. 49'' 33' N. The coast assumes a bolder aspect in pro-
ceeding northwards.

In lat. 49" 17' is Barren Bluff, or Lesseps Point, a high perpendicular head-
land, S.W. of which vessels will find shelter during winds from N.N.E. to
N.W., in 5 or 6 fathoms. Cape Byki, or Destitution, in 49"' 46' N., is bold,
high land, having a bay on its North side which affords good shelter in winds

• This bay was discovered by H.M.8. Barracouta, May 12th, 1856. The Russian settlo-
ment is in an inlet on the western side of the harbour, the entrance of which is 1^ mile
within the outer points. Here, at the head of a small bay, were found the burnt remiiius
of the Russian frigate Pallas, which escaped our cruisers in 1854-5. The settlement is built
on a rising ground cleared of wood, and supplied with water from two arUdcial wella.

CASTRIES BAY.

763

th-eastward,
irage for all
3 as Castries
sucli as the
re. Russian

lich extends
distance he-
llo Island is
Pushiashina

jest inlet, is
sland. This
ito its head,
rth shore, 3
lettlcraent of
st anchorage
Ice Ilarlumr,
! harbour, on

made Barren
;ood mark to
he land near
icate the en-

it shoal their
on, and in all
acs extremely

n to Castries
cable's length
ispect in pro-

idicular head-

•m N.N.E. to
6' N., is bold,
clter in winds

3 Ruasian settlo-
'hich is IJ milo
3 burnt remaius
ittlemont ia built
ficial wolla.

from S.E. to S.W., in 9 or 10 fathoms. Inland it is closed by a shelving beach,
on which arc scattered some Tartar huts. — {Mr. Tronson). Cape Siourkoum,
or Dent, a rugged, bluff headland, in 50° 5' N., declines to the eastward, and has
a bay on its North side; close off it is Gulf Rock, a pinnacle about 20 ft. high.

In lat. 51° 16' is Cape Duga, abreast which are two stony islands, and about
6 miles farther northward is a remarkable headland, presenting, when bearing
N. by E. or 8. by W., the appearance of a rocky column, with a round knoll
behind it. A few miles beyond this is the entrance of Castries Bay.

CASTRIES BAY is used by veasels to procure a pilot, or to discharge their
cargoes, when bound to the Amur, as those above 12 ft. draught cannot enter that
river. Its entrance is 4 miles wide between Kloster-camp or Quoin Point, on
the South, and Castries Point on the North, the former being marked by a
lighthouse, and the latter by a beacon. Rocks extend off both these points.
Although the greater part of the bay is open to easterly winds, which throw in
a heavy sea, yet vessels, if their draught will permit, will find shelter behind
the islands in it, particularly at its head on the West side of Observatory
Island. The bay is covered with ice from the middle of November or Decem-
ber to April. The isthmus which separates it from the principal branch of the
Amur is not more than 40 miles across, and Lake Kyzi is only 15 miles distant.
At the head of the bay is the Russian settlement Alexandrovski, founded about
the year 1855, composed of about forty wooden houses, inhabited by a guard
of about 100 men. According to the Russian chart, Alexandrovski is in lat.
61" 28' 2" N., long. 140° 48' 48" E.

Fish may be obtained from the natives ; flour and sugar in small quantities,
and occasionally meat and potatoes, can be obtained. Fresh water can be pro-
cured from the stream at the settlement, and fire-wood is abundant. There is
communication by road with the Amur River and other Russian settlements,
and telegraphic communication with China, Japan, Vladivostok, Nikolaevsk,
and Dui.

The LIQHTHO JSE on Kloster-camp or Quoin Point is painted red with a
white lantern, and shows a^xed bright light, elevated 262 ft., and visible 18
miles. The light is reported to be shown only from May 13 to November 13,
and sometimes to be only visible 4 miles. In foggy weather a Bell is sounded,
and a Gun will answer guns fired at sea.

Oyster Island, IJ mile S.E. by S. i S. from Observatory Island, is 2 cables
long ; a reef extends 3J cables northward of its North point, the extremity
being marked by a red and white beacon. Novik Bank, with only 5 ft. on it,
lies about midway between Oyster and South Islands ; a white beacon marks
its North end, and a red one its South end.

V'ostok Bank, or Danger Rock, upon which the sea occasionally breaks heavily,
but which does not show in smooth water, lies in the middle of the entrance,
with the western part of the promontory (the East extreme of which is Quoin
Point) in line with the bluff headland beyond, bearing about South. Its

ft;

m
kt

764

GULF AND RIVER AMUR.

! ,

X.E. end is marked by a red and white buoy, and its S.W. end by two red
perches.

On Klikoff Point, westward of the settlement, are two white triangular
beacons, 90 and 66 ft. high, which in line, bearing W.N.W., lead nearly mid-
way between Vostok Bank and Oyster Island, and to the anchorage.

Vessels should not anchor in the bay South of Oyster Island, the holding
ground being soft and bad. The best anchorage is with Castries Point bearing
N.E. by E. i E., and St. Catherine Point S.E. by E. For large vessels the
best anchorage is in 4^ fathoms, mud, 4 cables W. by S. from Oyster Island.

Directions. — In making the bay from the southward, the two small and
barren islets off Cape Duga will be seen, about 16 miles southward of Quoin
Point. At half a mile northward of D'Assas Point, on the North side of the
entrance, is a small waterfall, a useful mark in foggy weather. In entering
the bay, the beacons on Klikoff Point in line, bearing W.N.W., will lead be-
tween Vostok Bank and the reef extending northward of Oyster Island, in 8 to
7 fathoms. The North end of Observatory Island, bearing West, leads well
northward of Vostok Bank.

It is high water in Castries Bay, on full and change, at lO** 30" ; springs rise
8^ ft., neaps 4 to 5^ ft.

Pilots. — There are no authorised pilots between Castries Bay and the Amur
River, but boatmen can be obtained by applying to the military commander at
Alexandrovski, and to the captain of the port at Nikolaevok, who are well
acquainted with the channels of the river. The government make no charge
for this service, but a sum of 50 roubles is generally given to the men. Captain
Anderson, S.S. Appin, recommends captains of steamers under 13 ft. draught
to dispense with the services of these men, unless able to communicate with
them in the Russian language.

Cape Susohef, or Sutvhoff, 14^ miles N.E. \ N. from Castries Point, has a
smull bay northward of it, affording anchorage in 4 to 5 fathoms. Northward
of this the water becomes shallower towards the entrance of the Gulf of
Amur. Capes Catherine and Nevelskoi are steep, bold headlands, about 4
miles apart, and densely wooded; the former has a white cliff, and about 3
miles N.N.E. of the latter is a shoal, the South side of which is marked by a
red huoy.

GULF AND RIVER AMUR.

The OULF of AKTTB, or Saghalia, b 70 miles long. North and South
and 25 miles at its greatest breadth. The waters of the River Amur, which
run into this vast basin with great rapidity, have formed banks of sand and
mud, which cover almost its whole surface, barely leaving the shallow channels
by which the stream flows on one side to the Sea of Okhotsk, and on the other
to the Strait of Tartary ; this renders the entrance of this gre.it river difficult,
aud at times dangerous.

GULP AND RIVER AMUR.

lea

end by two red

hite triangular
!ad nearly mid-
>rage.

id, the holding
-8 Point bearing
irge vessels the
Dyster Island,
two small and
iward of Quoin
)rth side of the
In entering
7,, will lead be-
r Island, in 8 to
i^est, leads well

0" J springs rise

T and the Amur
Y commander at
, who are well
make no charge
le men. Captain
r 13 ft. draught
nmunicate with

es Point, has a
IS. Northward
of the Gulf of
Hands, about 4
ff, and about 3
8 marked by a

rth and South
: Amur, which
1(8 of sand and
lallow channels
nd on the other
t river difficult,

South Channel. — Immediately North of Cape Lnzarcf, at the South entrance
of the gulf, the channel from the Strait of Tartary divides into two branches.
That which goes to the N.N.W., narrow and slightly winding, is called the
South Fairicay, and keeps close to the Tartary shore. It has a tortuous course
to Nikolaevsk, which is 65 miles from Cape Lazaref. The channel varies from
a quarter of a mile to 2 miles in width ; the depths are generally small, but
occasionally are as much as 14 and 19 fathoms. The least water is 2^ fathoms,
and a flat with this depth extends for nearly 10 miles between Capes Korsakof
and Prongc, and this may be considered the real bar of the river, and must be
crossed to enter it. Beyond this bar the water deepens, and 1 1 ftithoms is
found abreast the town of Nikolaevsk, above which the river is said to be na-
vigable for 1,500 miles.

The N.N.E. branch, or Saghalin Fairway, is wider and deeper than the
other, the least depth being 18 ft. at low water. It keeps along the Saghalin
shore, at about 5 miles distant, for nearly 60 miles, until just North of Cape
Halezof, where it almost touches the coast ; and 20 miles farther North, be-
tween Capes Golovachef and Menshikof, 16 miles apart, it opens out into the
Sea of Okhotsk.

The North Channel, a narrow gut, leads close to Cape Tehakh, the North
entrance point of the Amur, and then trends 30 miles N.E. to the Sea of
Okhotsk, from which it is separated by a bar with only 6 ft. over it.

The RIVER AMUR, or Saghalin Ula, is formed of the streams Shilka and
Argun, which unite in lat. 53^ 30' N. on the frontiers of Russia and China. The
former of these consists of the Ingoda and Onon ; the latter being the main
stream which rises S.E. of Lake Baikal, in the mountain chain called Khing-
khan Ula by the Chinese, and Yablonoi Krebit by the Russians.*

The river flows East as far as Nertchinsk, where it is said to be 600 yards
wide, and very deep ; then North, then again East, when it receives the Argun,
which comes from the South near Baksanova. The united streams, under the
name of Amur, continue to the East and S.E., receiving from the South the
affluents Sungari and Usuri, and reaching its southern limit in 47° 48' N., at
the Mariensk Post, or Kisi, one of the most important Russian stations on the
Amur. A battery has been constructed that commands both the entrance to
the port and the river. It is from this post that the overland route to Castries
Bay (page 763) starts. It would be a most important line for a railway. From
Mariensk the river turns abruptly to the N.E. and East, falling into the Gulf
of Amur between Capes Pronge and Tebakb, which are 8 miles apart, and both
are fortified.

• The work by the late Thos. W. Atkinson, Esq., F.U.G.S., entitled "Travels in the
liegions of the Upper and Lower Amoor," London, 18G0, is, witli his previous work,
" Oriental and Western Siberia," 1858, a most interesting nccount of this nccoinplishcd
utial'a long residence and journeys in these previously almost unknown regiona.

7fl«

THE RIVER AMUR.

The length of the Amur, including all its windings, is about 2,500 miles ; it
is nnvignble for lorge vessels as far m Nertchinsk, 1,600 miles from its mouth,
in the summer season ; in the winter it is frozen over. There are now a large
number of steamers on the Amur, the season when the river is open being
limited to about half the year. Its mouth becomes frozen over about the be-
ginning of November, and the navigation does not open again before May.

At Nikolacvsk, in spring and summer, winds from the eastward and south-
ward prevail, bringing fog and rain. In autumn North and N.W. winds blow.

Nikolaevsk.— The fortress of Nikolaevsk is built on the left bank of the
river, at 22 miles from the entrance. It is surrounded by wooden houses, and
was defended by batteries and strong advanced M'O'^ks, which were nearly all
dismantled, when the Russian naval and militar}' station was removed to
Vladivostok. There is telegraphic communicat i m with Europe, and also with
the Russian settlements. The river is about 2 miles wide abreast the town.

Supplies and assistance in the way of repairs ore difficult to be obtained at
Nikolaevsk. Bullocks and salmon, however, may bo procured. Timber is
plentiful, and the forests extend as far as the eye can reach, but the export of
wood is strictly forbidden. The river water contains much lime, and removes
the paint from the bottoms of boats.

Directions, — A vessel entering the Gulf of Amur from the Strait of Tartary
should proceed with great caution, with a boat sounding on each bow, and an
anchor ready at a moment's notice. At different intervals great chaiigus liave
been announced in the channels. In 1860 the South Fairway Channel was
buoyed, and conspicuous wooden beacons were erected on the land to guido
through the different bends.

Merchant vessels have often remained aground in it for weeks together, and
frequently had to throw a portion of their cargoes overboard to lighten. It
will thus be seen that no permanent directions can be given for this navigation.

The channels leading from the gulf to the anchorage abreast Nikolaevsk are
frequently changing, owing to the great amount of debris sent down by the
strong current of the river, and with the constant fogs, frequent squalls, and
gales, would render the approach both difficult and dangerous, were it not for
the admirable way in which they are buoyed and beaconed.

Tides. — The flood sets to the N.E. along the coast of Russian Tartary at the
rate of 2 miles an hour. At Cape Lazaref the tide flows twice in the twenty-
four hours ; the rise is 6 ft., and sometimes as vauch as 9 ft. at springs, and the
ebb runs 3J to 4 knots. Off the Hagemir Islands the rise is 2 to 3 ft., and the
ebb runs 2 to 3 knots. Abreast of Chome Island the rise is 4 ft., and the water
remains at its highest level about fifty minutes. From Cape Djaore, or Korsakof
Point, to Cape Pronge, there appeared to be no regularity in the tidal action,
it being greatly influenced by the winds. It was high water only oncf m
twenty-four hours, and the tide rose 1 foot with a southerly and 3 ft. with a
northerly wind.

THE COAST OF RUSSIAN TARTARY-POSIiriTE BAY. 767

00 miles ; it

n its mouth,

now a large

open being

lout the be-
>re May.
and south-
winds blow,
bank of the

1 houses, and
:e nearly all
removed to
nd also with
the town,
obtained at

Timber is
he export of
and remoA'cs

it of Tartary
bow, and an
ihanges liave
Channel was
md to guide

iogether, and
lighten. It

s navigation.

ikolaevsk are

iown by the
squalls, and

ere it not for

artary at the
I the twenty -
ings, and the
3 ft., and the
ind the water
, or Korsakof
tidal action,
only oncf m
3 ft. with a

During the few days H.M. ships were off the northern entrance of the Oulf
of Amur, in 1855-6, the greatest rise of tide observed was 6 ft. The current
from the Amur set to the N.N.E., over the banks, sometimes 3 knots an hour.

THE COAST OF MANCHURIA, OR RUSSIAN TARTARY.

The coast of what is now Russian Tartary was but little known till the im-
perial power in China began to decline. When internal rebellion, and ex-
ternal influence were brought to bear on that enormous empire, the countries
which surrounded it, and over which it may be said that its sway was but
limited, became of even less importance, and thus the Manchurian territories
were the more easily ceded to Russia, when the Amur and the adjacent
countries were settled, and commerce opened. The Russian boundary has been
made to gradually encroach on tlie Chinese regions, and is now established at
the Tuman River, the mouth of which is in lat. 42° 18' N.*

The coast of the Korea will be found fully described in the China Pilot, pub-
lished by the Admiralty. To give a full description of a coast seldom or never
visited by European vessels is thought to be beyond the scope of this work.

In the following brief remarks, extracted from the China Pilot, we commence
with the southern point, at the Korean boundary. The coast has been sur-
veyed at different times, and hence there is some confusion of names, but they
are given as adopted in the China Pilot.

Surveys of various parts of this coast were made by several British and
French officers between 1852 and 1855, but the Russians made a more com-
jjlete survey during the years 1859 — 1866.

FOSIETTE BAT, or D'Anville Oalf, is comprised between Sisuro Point to
the S.W., and Cape Gamova or Hxtgon to the N.E., about 33 miles apart. This
latter cape, rising 1,800 ft. above the sea, is the end of a peninsula extending
to the South. It is visible 30 miles off, and, coming from the N.E., is a good
landmark for this bay, as Sisuro Point is from the South.

To the N.W. the bay contracts, forming a strait 4 miles long, and about 2^
miles wide, known as Pallada Road, contracting at its N.W. extreme to a
narrow passage the navigable channel of which is further lessened by Tcher-
karsky Island and shoals, leaving only a channel of a little over a cable in width
communicating with two larger basins named Novogorod and Expedition Bays,
completely landlocked, and affording perfect shelter to any number of vessels.
It is said never to be frozen over. The shores are mountainous, but the land
at the bottom of the bay is low, marshy, and broken by a range of steep bluffs.
Furugelma Island {Cassini Island J, lying in the S.W. part of Posiette Bay,
is 3 miles in circumference, and 413 ft. high, forming a good mark for entering

* A detailed account of these Russian acquisitionB ia given by Dr. W. Q. Blackie,
F.B.Q.S., in the Journal of the British Association, 1858.

768

THE COAST OF RUSSIAN TARTARY.

r
i .

tho bay. There are two villages on its West face. A reef of rocks extends
more than half a mile from it8 S. W. point, and another reef projects fully 1
mile from its N.W. point. At half and two-thirds of a mile N.E. by N. J N.
and E. by N. f N. respectively from its N. E. point lie Pilier and liuoi/ Jiocks ;
the former is 30 ft. high, but the latter hardly shows at high water.

Kalavala or Moule Bay is partly sheltered to the S.E. by Furugelma Island,
and to the N.E. by Dodisko Peninsula, the summit of which, named Mount
Direction, is 820 ft. high. The bay is 1] mile deep, North and South, and 1
mile wide at the entrance, which is narrowed by a reef of rocks, awash, stretch-
ing neorly 2 cables off the West shore. With the wind from S.E. to S.S.E. a
heavy swell sets in, making the anchorage unsafe, and the holding ground is
not good. The highest tides observed rose about 3^ ft.

Fallada Boad, comprised between Mount Direction to the South, and Capo
Deger or Klaproth Point to the North, is 5 miles deep, N.W. and S.E., with a
mean width of 3 miles. It affords fair anchorage within Balbi and Maltc Rrun
(Ostrano) Points, the inner points of the bay, in 12 to 5 fathoms, over mud
bottom, open to S.E. Klikova or Yedo Rock, with 10 ft. on it, lies nearly in
mid-channel at the entrance to Falluda Uoad, with Ostrano Point bearing
West, distant 3^ miles ; it can be readily distinguished by the white seaweed
on it.

Expedition Bay i "^ood and secure harbour, and affords a safe retreat for
vessels not wishing to riub < . south-easterly gnlc in Pallada Road. The

entrance to it is nearly half a mile . iJe, but it is divided into two channels
by a large bare rock named the Mingan or Tcherkarsky. The eastern of these
channels should on no account be taken. The other channel on the West side
of the Mingan must be entered with caution, for it is narrow, and a shoal ex-
tends nearly half-way across from T:!i:;rkhodi Rock, so that it is advisable
rather to close the Mingan. Entering t le bay, take care to avoid a small
knoll of 3J fathoms, nearly in the i-en+ie of the fairway. The observation
spot on Tchurkhoda or Musoir Bock, i.^ in latitude 42° 37' 50' N., longitude
130° 48' 45" E., approximate.

It is high water at the entrance to Expedition Bay, on full and change, at
2'' 30", and the rise is about 2J ft.

Coal is obtained from coal-pits on Mokhouvey Peninsula, about 3 cables
N.E. of Tyrol Point, and here is a Russian settlement. Vessels can anchor off
the coal-pits in 18 ft. water, mud bottom, at 2^ cables from the shore. There
is telegraphic communication with the other Russian settlements.

Novogorod Bay, or Port Louis. — After passing through the channel be-
tween the Tchurkhoda and Tcherkasky Rocks, Novogorod Bay will open out
to the eastward. There are no dangers after the harbour is open. Anchorage
may be taken anywhere in mid-channel.

A hard sandy spit runs across the upper part of the harbour, above which is
a li/ge lagoon. The harboui- abounds with fish. There are several small runs

PETER THE GREAT BAY-AMUR BAY.

Ito

!ks extcntU
ects fully I

by N. 2 N.
'uoi/ Rocks ;

iXxaa, Island,
med Mount
3uth, and 1
ash, stretch-
to S.S.E. a
g ground is

;h, and Capo
S.E., with a
, Malto Brun
8, over mud
C8 nearly in
jint bearing
lite seaweed

fe retreat for
Road. The
two channels
tern of these
le West side
a shoal ex-
is advisable
void a small
! observation
'{., longitude

i change, at

tout 3 cables
m anchor off
loro. There

channel be-
irill open out
Anchorage

)ove which is
al small runs

of good water ; there are also various beds of oysters, and one of lnrp;o mussels.
The hills are covered with long grass, and abound with pheasants, partridges,
and foxes; and the low ground, which is swampy, with woodcock and snipe.
There are several villages of Manchu Tartars here.

PETEB THE GREAT BAT.— Eastward of Cape Uamova the coast forms
a deep bight 50 miles across, between it and Askold Island, divided by a penin-
sula, which projects southward from its head, and a chain of numerous islands,
into two deep bays, the western of which is named Amur Bay, and the eastern
Ousouri Bay.

Koriakov or Peelea Island, about 2 J miles long, lies about 11 miles W.N.W.
of Cape Oamova, and a chain of islets and rocks extends nearly 3 miles N.W.
of it. Off the S.E. point are several high rocks. Approaching from the south-
ward it appears as two islands.

Dournovo, Hildebrct.i.lt, and Dalevron Islets, about 100 feet high, lie from
2 J to 3J miles N.W. of Korsakov; two rocks, awash, lie 1 mile N.W. of
Dalevron, the northern island, and two others southward of it, all marked by
beacons.

Redcliffe Island lies about 3 miles N.E. of Korsakov, and a reef, marked by
beacons, lies about 4 cables N.W. of its North point. To the N.N.W. of it
are Antipanko and Sebereakov Islands, connected by a reef, both high ard
rocky, and covered with vegetation.

Mani , or White Cliff Bay, a large open bay westward of the latter islands,
apparent./ affords good shelter, but the South point, with rockis off it, should
not be approached too near.

AMUR BAT, or Ouerin Oulf, extends 35 miles N.E., with an average
breadth of 8 miles ; there are several good anchorages in it.

Slavianski Bay, or Fort Bruce. — About 2^ miles northward of Antipanko
Island is a conspicuous cliffy point, which forms the S.E. point of a secure and
deep bight, named Slavianski Bay, which forms an excellent harbour, and is
well protected by the Eugenie Archipelago. The soundings are regular, and a
vessel may anchor in 4 fathoms, good holding ground, near the head of the
N.W. bay, where there is a small river. Fish and potatoes were procured
from the natives. Vessels entering should pass South of Gerasineov Island.

When abreast Slavianski Bay, Mount Virginie, a high table hill, will be seen
to the north-eastward, with a tuft of trees on its summit ; and farther, in the
same direction, another named Mount Winchester, a rocky and elevated pro-
montory, the eastern slope of which terminates in a low sandy point named
Pestchanoi, in lat. 43° 11' N. H.M.S. Winchester, 1856, anchored in 6 J
fathoms, mud, with this point bearing S. by W. i W., and Retchnoi Islet
N.E. by N. i N. ; this anchorage is good, and quite landlocked. A provision
dc|}6t is established in this bay for the use of the Russian troops stationed on
the Sui-fun River.

2\,^orth Pacific. d p

\'-vi

770

THE COAST OP RUSSIAN TARTARY.

l!i

The head of Amur Bay forms an eztengive shallow bight, the shallow Sui-fun
flowing into its N.W. extremity. There is a Russian military post on the river,
and near it are some Government saw-mills.

The distance from Pestchanoi Point to the entrance of the river is 7 miles.
A vessel might anchor within 3 miles of the entrance, as the depths gradually
shoal towards it. Good water can be procured about a mile from the entrance.
Wood can be obtained on any part of the coast, the land being covered with
trees, and the beach with drift-wood.

EUGENIE AECHIPELAOO consists of a chain of high islands, extending
20 miles 8.W. of Muravief Amursky or Albert Peninsula.

Kazakavitoh Island, the largest of the chain, and separated by the Eastern
Bosphorus from the Muravief Promontory, is about 8 miles across, and deeply
indented in many parts. It is mountainous, and thickly wooded. Novik Bay,
or Port Deans Dundas, on its N.W. side, is a long and narrow inlet, extend-
ing nearly to the S.E. point. It is 8^ cables wide at its entrance, and is very
clear of dangers, having depths of 8 to 5 fathoms to within a mile of its head,
where it suddenly shoals. Voevoda Bay, or Port Stetvart, and Boyarin or
Wilder Bay, and several other smaller bays on the West coast of Kazakavitch,
also afford shelter for ships of the largest draught, and no doubt good water
can be procured by digging wells. Westward of Voevoda Bay two buoys and
three beacons are moored in line in about 1 1 fathoms, half a mile apart, for
testing the speed of vessels.

Paris Bay, on the N.E. side of Kazakavitch, immediately westward of
SkryplefF Island, affords sheltered anchorage in 9 fathoms, yijax Bay, North
of Paris Bay, has several shoal patches in it, Skriabin Bank, lying near its
centre, being marked by a beacon.

Popov, Reineke, and Rickord, the next largest islands, lie to the S.W, of
Kazakavitch, Japanese Strait or Fellowes Passage, the passage between the
two latter, having depths of 8 to 15 fathoms. Virkhovski Islands, nearly 3
miles S.E. of Reineke, are low ; the S.E. island is marked by a pole beacon.
Karamzin Island lies 1^ mile S.E. of Rickord Island; and four other islands
lie S.W. of Rickord, the outer of which is Jeltukhin Island. Tsivolko, 1 J mile
W.N.W. of Jeltukhin, is marked by a beacon, and l>,as a remarkable hole
through it. Currie Channel, between the latter and Antipanko Island, is 6
miles wide.

EASTERN BOSPHORUS, or Hamehn Strait, is 6 miles long, and about
half a mile wide in its naiTowest part, at its western entrance, where a sand-
spit stretches nearly half-way across from the northern point. Cape Tokarefsky,
a red and white striped buoy lying off the extremity.

LIGHTS. — A black and white pile lighthouse stands in 12 ft. water on the
extremity of Cape Tokarefsky spit, and shows a Jixed bright light, elevated
18 ft., and visible 4 miles southward between W. by N. f N. and E. by S, J S.

On Larionoff Point, on the opposite side, is a red lighthouse, showing a

Japanbsb.

ChLaai

Ko, as a prefix

Oki

O, as a prutix

Kuchi (makus Guchi
in the compound, as
Eawa giichi) ....

Eawa (makes Gawa
in the compound) . .

Yarna

Kuni

Nada

Utni

Seto

Hona

Saki

Misaki

Ura

Minato

Mura

Sima (in the Yedo
dialect pronounced
Shima, and somo-
times forma in the
compound Jima, as
Awa Jima)

Hama

Tei-haku

Siwo (pronounced in
Yedo Shiwo) ....

Bhi'wo, or eiwo. . . .

Ko shiwo ,,

Michinhiwo ,,

Hiki shiwo ,,

Iwa

Tshi

Kita

Minnmi

Hagauhi

Ninhi

Khzo

Anio

Yuki

Kumo

North Pacijic,

JAPAN.
Glossary of Japanese Words.

English. Japanbse. English.

Littio, small. Mid/.u Water.

Little, small. Hi Fire.

Largo, great. Tsuki Moon.

Largo, great. O Hi Sun.

Mouth. Ki Tree.

Michi Road.

The river's mouth. Machi Street.

lye House.

River. Hiroi Wide.

Mountain. H030 Narrow.

Country. Nagai (pronounced in

A sea. Yedo Nangai) .... Long.

Tne sea. Mijikai Short.

Strait. No (possessive pron.) Of.

Point. Wa (the definite art.) The.

Cape. Wo (ohjective case)

A prominent cape. Ga (indefinite article) A or any.
Day. Kane (in the com-

Harbour. pound Qane) .... Metal.

Villago. Aki-yane (red metal) Copper.

Kin Gold.

Gin Silver.

Tetsu Iron.

Tomio Lighthouse.

So A shoal.

Island. I'ukai Deep.

Coast, shore. Asai Shallow.

Anchorage. Tnkai High, lofty, tall.

Tera Temple.

Tide. Fune Boat.

Spring tide. .Toki sen Steamer.

Noop tide. Ho bune Sailing vessel.

i'lood tide. Kuroi Hlack.

Ebb tide. Shiroi AVhite.

Rock. Hana iro Itliio.

Stone. Ki iro YoUow.

North. Ilatolm Wharf, lauding.

South. Gako Cliff.

East. Take Hill.

West. Ikari Anchor.

Wind. Kochira r, i asai ka . . Is it shonl hereP

Rain. Kochira ni fukai ka Is it deep hero P

Snow. Niuorjin Man.

Clouds. Onna Woman.

.") V 2

■•mi

JAPAN— GLOSSARY, ETC.

Japanbsb. English.

Kodomo Child.

IJchi In, inside.

Unjosho Custom-house.

Ham Spring.

Natsu Summer.

Aki Autumn.

Fuyu Winter.

Hama Sand.

Doro Mud.

Hashi Bridge.

Sibansho Guard-house.

Qunkan Man-of-war.

Hata Flag.

Oats Month.

Nichi Dav.

Japanese. Enoiish.

Omo kaji Starboard.

Tori kaji Port.

Uma Horao.

Ushi Bull.

Niwatori Fowl.

Tamago Egg.

Kamo Duck.

Imo Potatoes.

Mame Beans.

Karo Magistrate.

Shikwan Officer.

Daimio Noble.

Joki sha Railway.

Oka La,nd.

Midzu umi Lake.

1,1

In the pronunciation of many of the above words, i and u are often almost inaudible.

Money.
The coinage now in use in Japan was adopted in the year 1871. The Yen, a gold
coin weighing 25.72 grains troy, was constituted the fundamental unit of the system.
The gold coins are 1, 2, 5, 10, and 20 yen pieces, the latter valued at £4 3«. Id.

Silver and copper coins are as follows, the yen or dollar being used in paying
duties, and in commercial transactions.
Silver.

1 yen

50 sen

20 sen

10 sen

5 sen

4». 2d.
2a. U.

lOi.
6rf.

2irf.

Copper.
1 sen = h4.
J sen := }tl.
1 rin =: ig-<''

Weights.

Avoirdupois.
1 drachm
1 oz. -

pound

cwt.

ton

.4695 Mommo.
7.5117

120.187
134G1.
209220.

Troi/.

1 gram - rr

.01717 Momme

1 pennyweight

.4121

1 oz. -

8.242

1 poand

98.1

1 inch

1 foot

1 yaixl

1 pole

1 furlong

1 mile

1 geographical mile -

1 degree ...

Measures.

.08378
1.00O02
3.019086
16.588473
663.539
•6308.812
6119.304
367158.

Shakus.

or 28.330111 Ri.

The Measures of Capacity arc as follows ; —

Chinese.
1 Shiyaku (Clioh) =
NgoB (Koh)

Japanese.
10 Sai -
10 Sbiyaku
10 KgoS
10 BhoU
'0 To .

- ^

1 Sho6 (Bbiiig) •

1 To (Tau)
I Koku -

Cubic measure.
1.1075 cubic inches.
11076 „ „
110.75 „ „
1107.5

6.409 cub'c feet.

Liquid measure.

or .3195 pints,
or 3.195 „
or 3.9!'i ■ (wllons.
ur iM'Si I'lf'it'ls.

EASTERN BOSPHORUS— PORT VLADIVOSTOK.

771

Enolisr.

)oarJ.

toes.

LB.

istrate.

er.

le.

way.

iMt inaudible.

The Yen, a gold
lit of the system.
: £4 3s. id.
■ used in paying

)I717 MomitiR.
1'21
12

111 Ri.

Liquid moasuro.

..1195 pints.
•3.1M „
■ 3.9!'-. " laiUons.
4.ay'jS Ltir'iels.

Jlxed bright light, elevated 196 ft., and visible 14 miles northward between
W. I N. and E. | S. A red sector of 5° is shown between N. 80° E. and
N. 85° E., leading southward of Cape Tokarefski spit.

On Pospaloff Point, 2J miles E. by 8. J S. from Larionoff Point, two Jixed
leading lights are shown, which in line, bearing E. by S. ^ S., lead through
the channel between Cape Tokarefsky and Larionoff Point. The upper light
is bright, elevated 21 ft., and visible 4 miles, shown from a white beacon ; the
lower light, green, elevated 17 ft., is shown from a green beacon.

Skrypleff Island, a round rock, about 150 ft. high, and covered with grass,
lies at the eastern entrance to the Eastern Bosphorus. Two white cross
beacons on its East side in line, S.S.E., lead over the reef extending N.W. of
it. Vessels approaching from the northward should keep the beacons open of
each other. The North point of the reef is marked by a buoy. The extremity
of the reef extending eastward of Cape JitkoflF, towards the South end of
Skrypleff Island, is also marked by a buoy. A sunken rock is reported to lie
1i[ cables N.W. i N. from the North point of the island. There is a Signal
Station on the island, in communication with Vladivostok.

LIGHTS. — On the summit of Skrypleff is a lighthouse, 18 ft. high, showing
& Jixed bright light, elevated 150 ft., and visible 15 miles, h. fixed green light,
elevated 164 ft., and visible 4 miles, is shown from a pyramid on the N.W.
side of the island, and the lights in line, N.W. f N., lead through the eastern
part of the Eastern Bosphorus.

Fog Signals.— A Bell near the lighthouse is sounded in foggy weather; and
a G'ln will be fired from the East end of the island in answer to reports of
tf^'us hoard from seaward.

i ORT VLADIVOSTOK, Golden Horn Say, or Port May, on the northern
8* ^e ,/i '.he Eastern Bosphorus, is an excellent harbour, where a vessel may lie
ijui'.. ndlocked in 8 or 9 fathoms, stiff mud. The town, on its North shore,
i^ l:«it rising in importance, now that it is the head-quarters of the Russian
Sibcr '.;. squadron. At the western end is the naval yard. In the thick forest*
arou id, tigers, bears, wolves, boars, and deer abound. The shores are covered
wit'j oak forests, and coal appears to be everywhere present. The hills over
th e settlement are entrenched. In 1881 the population numbered 7,819, of
whom 5,883 were Russian. The exports consist of fish, &c., for the Chinese
market, the imports being provisions and manufactured goods.

In 1883 dock works were being actively proceeded with, and an hydraulic
lift, capable of lifting vessels of 4,600 tons, is in course of construction.

Fresh beef can be obtained at 6d. per lb., and all sorts of vegetables. Salmon
is abundant. A small supply of water can be procured from wells. Saghalin
coal can be had in any quantity. There is telegraphic communication with
St. Petersburgh, &c.

The climate, though variable, is pleasant during summer, but it is cold and

772

THE COAST OF RUSSIAN TARTARY.

dreary in winter, when the harbour is frozen for three or four months. May,
June, and July are usually wet.

Liffhti.—On Cape Goldobin, the eastern entrance point of the port, two
fixed lights, visible 8 miles, are shown from two red posts ; the upper light,
elevated 53 ft., is red, and the lower light, at 48 ft., is bright, the line of the
lights in line passing through the low point of Cape Tokarefski. Two fixed
lights, the eastern red, and the western green, are shown on the extremity of
the Admiralty pier, and on its inner extremity are tyro fixed bright lights.

Fog Signal. — A la'- ■re Bell is sounded slowly, in foggy weather, on Cape
Goldobin ; in answer ' <-'' \ from seaward, a large and small Bell will bd
Bounded in quick succef.

There is a battery on Cap ioldobin, and a Signal Station. Buoys mark the
shoal banks extending off the shores of the entrance.

According to Lieut. Onasetvich, the observation spot at Vladivostok is in lat.
43" 6' 51" N., long. 131° 53' 19J" E., but telegraphic determinations by U.S.
officers, 1881-2, compute the longitude as 131° 62' 44".

Patroclus Bay, on the northern shore of the Eastern Bosphorus, affords an-
chorage in its N.E. corner, in 6 fathoms. Ulysses Cove is a landlocked basin,
westward of Patroclus Bay, its entrance being only half a cable wide. Diomedes
Inlet, East of Cape Goldobin, affords secure and sheltered anchorage.

OUSOUBI BAY, or Napoleon Gulf, is about 33 miles deep, and 16 miles
wide, the land on its western shore being bold. The eastern shore has several
indentations, encumbered with shoals.

Askold Island, Termination Island, the eastern point of Peter the Great
Bay, is 2,000 ft. in height, about 3J^ miles long, and 2^ miles broad. Rocks
extend off its N.E. and S.E. points, and its shores are steep and rocky. Gold
is reported to have been found here. Nayezdnik Bay, on its South side, affords
anchorage at its head in 8 fathoms, open to S.W. winds.

LIGHTHOUSE.— On the South point of Askold Island is a red lighthouse,
showing afiashing bright light, visible 25 miles seaward between E. by N. f N.
and N.W. i W.

Fog Signals. — In foggy weather a Bell will be sounded ; and in answer to
every gun heard in the offing a gun will be fired.

Between Askold Island and Maidel Point is a passage 3 miles wide, Unkqfski
Island, having some islets off its North end, lying in mid-channel.

Strelok Bay, or Fort Freeman. — Westward of Maidel Point the coast forms
a bight, the centre of which is filled by the large island Putiatin, thus form-
ing a strait, on the North side of which are several small bays. Hasboinik
Bay, at the N.W. corner, affords excellent anchorage for one vessel in 5J
fathoms, completely landlocked ; and other vessels may anchor outside in pcr-
leci shelter. Ahrck Bay, eastward of Rasboinik Bay, is exposed to winds from
the S.E.

Vostok Bay, East of Strelok Bay, is open to the S.W., but small bays on

AMERICA BAY— 8IAU WUHU BAY.

778

its northern shore afford sheltered anchorage. The coast is high and rocky.
Gaidamak Harbour, on the West shore, although small, affords secure and
sheltered anchorage in 5 fathoms.

America Bay, or Hornet Bay, is formed between Cape Sredni on the West,
and Povorotny Point on the East. Capt. Forsyth, who discovered it in H.M.S.
Hornet, in 1856, describes it as a spacious inlet, 8 miles wide and deep, carry-
ing a moderate depth up to its head, but open to southerly winds. The
Sutchan or Ltfont River flows roimd the foot of a peculiar conical hill at the
head of the bay, with a depth of 5 ft. on the bar. Alexandroviska, a convict
settlement, is situated on this river. Gold is reported to have been found here.

Vessels should not pass between Lisi or Fox Island and the West shore, but
there is good anchorage northward of it between the island and the main.
Many villages and several herds of cattle were seen. Povorotny Point or Cape
Kruilov, the S.E. point of the bay, has a steep face of gray rock 200 ft. high,
and southward of it is a red cliff. Some distance N.E. of the point is a hill
with a red summit.

Wrangel Bay, on the eastern shore of America Bay, is 8 cables wide at its
entrance, and about 2 miles deep, affording perfectly sheltered anchorage;
the depths decreasing gradually from 10 fathoms at the entrance to 6 fathoms
at half a mile from its head. The tides rise 2 ft. Kosmin Bay, about 3 miles
South, affords good anchorage. Nakhodka Bay, on the western side of
America Bay, is nearly a mile wide at its entrance, and 2 miles deep, and is
perfectly sheltered from all winds, but the harbour is too shallow for vessels
of lurge draught. There is a small Russian military settlement here. Anchor-
age may be had in 4^ fathoms, soft mud.

The Coast from America Bay to St. Vladimir Bay, a distance of 150 miles,
embraces mountain ranges, which do not rise higher than 3,000 ft. The
coast is bordered by forests, and is thinly populated, the natives being com-
municative and obliging. As a general rule, along the coast of Russian Tar-
tary, every valley which terminates on the sea-beach has its stream of excellent
water. Drift-wood is generally to be found on the beaches.

The coast between America Bay and Cape Zamok, or Islet Point, was sur-
veyed by the Russian schooner Vostok, in 1861. From Islet Point to St.
Vladimir Bay was surveyed by H.M. ships Actaon and Dove, in 1859.

Tcheniya Bay, about 25 miles eastward of America Bay, is small but com-
modious, being over 1^ mile in depth, and 1 mile wide at its entrance, with
depths of 11 to 4 fathoms.

Cape Zamok, Ostrovni or Islet Point, is a bold, rocky headland, between
which and St. Vladimir Bay the coast is remarkably clear of dangers, a for-
tunate circumstance where the navigator is so frequently enveloped in dense
fogs.

Siaa Wuhu Bay, Preohrajenya, lies 6 miles north-eastward of Cape Zamok,
and affords a small but well sheltered anchorage in 5 to G fathoms, in its N.E.

1 n

''■<:i

THE COAST OF RUSSIAN TARTARY.

corner. It is 2^ miles deep, and 3^ miles wide at its entrance between Petrova
Island and Cape Creasy, its eastern entrance point, the latter being a bold
rocky headland, 695 ft. high. From the southward, a hill 2,720 ft. high, the
most elevated in the immediate neighbourhood, is a good mark to point out its
position ; it bears N.W. by N., 4^ miles, from Orekhof Island, which partly
shelters the anchorage. Vessels requiring a refit would find the inner harbour
admirably adapted for the purpose ; there is no perccpt^'^le rise and fall of tide.

An extensive plain on the North side of the outer anchorage affords pas-
turage for cattle, which are, however, small, but the beef is excellent. The
natives ask high prices, only accepting silver in payment. The country abounds
in deer. Vegetables and wood are plentiful. Water may be obtained at a
stream which flows into the N.E. comer of the outer bay.

St. Valentine Bay, Ta Wuhu, 22 miles N.E. by E. from Cape Creasy, is
quite exposed to the southward and eastward, and can only be recommended
as a temporary anchorage for steamers. Its position is marked by a hill 2,370
feet high, 1^ mile North of it; and its N.E. side by four very conspicuous
cliffs. There is a village here, but no supplies could be obtained. Castle
Point, 15 miles N.E. by E. ^ E. from St. Valentine Bay, is a remarkable bluff,
its yellow cliffs rising almost precipitously to an elevation of 1,060 ft.

Broken Head is a fine rocky promontory, 660 ft. high, 8^ miles N.E. by
E. f E. from Castle Point ; it is the termination of a range of hills, to the rear
and northward of which is an extensive and well-watered plain, void of trees.
Off the S.E. face of Broken Head is a high rock like a shark's fin. Inside the
entrance of Mosquito River, 2^ miles North of Broken Head, is a small shel-
tered basin of 3 to 5 fathoF?' water, too small for any but small craft. The bar
had 13 ft. on it in 1859. From 8 to 9 miles N.E. of Broken Head are a line of
conspicuous white cliffs. St. Eustaphia Bay, 4 or 5 miles beyond, is a small
open bay, with exposed anchorage in 4 to 5 fathoms, sand. The coast from St.
Eustaphia Bay trends E.N.E., 7^ miles, to Low Table Point, Mount Kruglaya,
1,920 ft. high, lying about midway between.

Low Table Point, 20 miles N.E. by £. from Broken Head, is 120 ft. high,
and is probably so named on accour^ of the perfect level country in its imme-
diate vicinity ; it is bordered with a vertical cliff, extending 2 miles to the
eastward from the base of a conspicuous round- topped mountain about 1,200 ft.
high, which is especially useful in making Olga Bay from the southward, before
Table Point is seen.

OLGA BAY, or Port Michael Seymour, in lat. 41° 43' N., 11 miles N.E. by
N. i N. from Low Table Point, was discovered by H.M.S. Hornet, in July,
1 856. It is open to the southward, but there is shelter from all winds in its
northern part, in 10 fathoms, mud. It is frozen for four months in the year.
A narrow passage, named Brown Channel, at its N.E. part, leads into an inner
harbour or estuary, which is well adapted for careening purposes. This channel
has only 3^ fathoms in it, deepening to 6 and 7 fathoms towards the inner har-

^ "niarnri i-i"

sn Petrova
ng a bold
high, the
tint out ita
ich partly
er harbour
fall of tide.
Sbrds paa-
lent. The
■y abounds
aiued at a

Creasy, is
ommcnded
, hill 2,370
onspicuous
d. Castlt
table bluff,
ft.

s N.E. by
to the rear
d of trees.
Inside the
small shel-
l. The bar
re a line of

is a small
St from St.

Kruglaya,

!0 ft. high,
its imme-
iles to the
It 1,200 ft.
ard, before

es N.E. by
/, in July,
inds in its
a the year,
to an inner
lis channel
inner har<

OLOA BAY— ST. VLADIMIK BAY.

775

hour, on the shores of which is a small military settlement. There is a
Chinese settlement on the eastern side of the bay ; the Chinese collect sea-
cabbage for export. Avakum or Gilbert River flows into the N.W. angle of
the port. Petrova Rock, with 5 ft. on it, lies 6 cables E. \ 8. of Cape Linden
on the western side of the entrance to Olga Bay ; it is marked by a perch
beacon.

Supplies can be had in moderate quantities only. The seine will always
procure an abundance of capital fish, such as salmon and trout. A few fowls
may also be procured, and small supplies of fresh butter, beef, and mutton.
The watering stream flows through a valley on the eastern side of the port, near
^be ordinary anchorage. Wood may be obtained in any quantity.

The position of Olga Bay may be easily known when approaching it from
the northward by Brydone Island, on the eastern side of the entrance, and th
only one on this part of the coast ; it appears white from seaward. Approach-
ing from the southward, the entrance will be recognised by the opening in the
land. Brydone Island is not distinguishable at any great distance, as, being
only 325 ft. high, it looks like a cliff of Mount Sacken, the hill 1,341 ft. high,
behind it. The outer anchorage is very exposed, and the holding ground not
go6d. It is high water, on full and change, at 5** 30°° ; the rise is about 3 ft.
The coast northward of Olga Bay for 20 miles is bold and rocky ; the white
chalk cliff of Cape Lunden is conspicuous.

ST. VLADIMIR BAY, in lat. 43° 54' N., 19 miles northward of Olga Bay,
was discovered by the Russian frigate America, in 1857. Its entrance, 1^
mile wide, and open to the East, is formed between North Head or Cape
Ballouzek, 347 ft. high, and South Head or Cape Watauski, 712 ft. high, both
of which, when approaching from the East or N.E., appear like islands. From
thence the bay extends westward, and forms three arms, one to the North, one
to the South, and the other, the smallest, to the West. The depths are about
15 to 5 fathoms in the North and South arms, but the West arm is compara-
tively shallow, and has a 2-ft. shoal midway in its entrance.

The South arm is well sheltered, but, as a slight swell is frequently expe-
rienced there, it can scarcely be recommended as a fit place for careening,
especially with Olga Bay in such close proximity. To the South it communi-
cates by a stream with a lake of 16 to 10 ft. water, which with little trouble
might be formed into a graving dock. A stony reef extends 2^ cables from
the East side of the entrance.

There is no fixed population in this bay. A few bullocks were seen, but
their owners would only part with them for sycee silver, refusing dollars. Soma
potatoes and wild onions were obtained. Deer are numerous.

The tides are irregular in St. Vladimir Bay. It is high water, on full and
change, at P, and the range is about 2 ft.

Approaching from the southward, Pinnacle and Chetyrek Points are the only
remarkable features, the former having a sharp needle rock at its extreme.

I \

77fl

THE COAST OF RUSSIAN TARTARY.

1
!| iii

i lilt:

' n

Chetyrek Point, 3^ miles S.S.W. of the South Head, is formed by three rooky
summits.

The COAST from St. Vladimir Bay trends in a N.E. by N. direction to
Barracouta Harbour, in 49° 2' N., then N. by E. to Castries Bay, and is firee
from apparent danger. Its outline was but imperfectly known until 1855, when
H.M. ships Sybille and Barracouta sailed along it, and determined the follow-
ing points and anchorages. This coast was surveyed by the Russian Colonel
Bolschef, in 1875, an undertaking of great difficulty and hardship.

Shelter or Oprichnik Bay, in 44° 30' N., affords shelter from N.E. winds.
Good water can be obtained in a river a cable wide, with a bar at its mouth,
and a depth of 9 ft. within. It affords a supply of fish.*

Sybille or Plastoon Bay, in 44° 44' N., affords shelter from S.S.E. winds.
Its entrance is remarkable from having on either side some prominent pinnacle
rocks, high and isolated. The bay is closed by a broad valley, tlirough which
some streams run and form a small river, which empties itself into the bay.

Fiqne Bay, in la t4° 46' N., has good shelter from N.E. and easterly winds.
The best anchorage is in 5 fathoms, with the point bearing S.E. by E. Cattle
may be obtained at this anchorage.

Bollock or Temei Bay, in 45° 5' N., affords but bad anchorage. Bullocks
and fowls can be procured, but with difficulty.

Luki or Shants Point, in 45° 22' N., is high, bluff, and woody. Cape Dis-
appointment, in 45° 47' N., has rocks extending a cable from it.

The coast to the northward, in the Gulf of Tartary, is described previously,
pp. 76 i— 764.

* This coast is described in Mr. Tronsoa's Voyuge of the Barracouta, 1859, p. 326, &o.

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CHAPTER XI.

Sii .1

iLii

,i''V

If "

THE JAPANESE ARCHIPELAGO.

The celebrated and long mysterious traveller, Maroo Polo, was the first to
announce to the westsrn world the existence of the rich and powerful island of
Xipangu, now known to be Japan. In 1642 a Portuguese, Mendez Pinto, was
cast by a storm on its shores, and a Portuguese settlement from Malacca was
soon afterwards made on Kiuaiu. In June, 1588, some citizens of Rotterdam
fitted out a small fiieet of five ships to trade in the Indian Archipelago, and in-
jure, as much as possible, the commerce and power of Spain. Among several
Englishmen in this fleet, were William Adams, of Oillingham, near Rochester,
and Timothy Shotter, who had accompanied the famous Cavei dish in his cir-
cumnavigation. The venture was pre-eminently imfortunate. Only one ship,
and that the smallest, the Joyout Message, commanded by Siebold de Weert,
returned to Holland. Two of the others were destroyed, and the fourth, in
which were these two Englishmen, reached Japan a mere wreck. The crew
were taken prisoners ; and, after some confinement, Adams was taken into the
confidence of the Emperor ; the rest departed. He was raised to great honours ;
became of first importance in the political and commercial affairs of the empire;
but did not succeed to the extent of his intentions, having gained privileges
only for the Dutch, who have studiously avoided mention of his part in their
establishment. Some extensive privileges were also granted, at his instigation,
to the English East India Company, to establish a factory at Firando.*

As is well known, the only port allowed to be open to foreigners (and this
permission was limited to the Dutch and Chinese) was the Port of Nagasaki,
or rather for the Dutch, the Island of Dezima, lying before it. But the Japanese
maintained a rigid exclusireness, and but little was known to Europe about the
country. Without enumerating the older authors, the principal work on Japan
was a collection from the notices of the Dutch presidents, by Dr. Ph. Fr. van
Siebold, who visited the country in the period between 1823-30, a magnificent
work, worthy of any nation.

* The first English who visited it were with Oapt. Saris, who came to the relief of Adams
from England, in 1611, arriving at Firando June 9th, 1613.

North Pacific. 5 a

BotM Tohaa

I',

.;!):

IJi

!'•!

?i i '

P-'»'*-!!^_

778

THE JAPANESE ARCHIPELAGO.

The ©rente of latei- years have marvellously altered the relations between
Japan and western civilization. The various attempts at obtaining some ad-
mission into Japanese affairs, made prior to 1863, cannot here be enunciated.
But in that year, July 8th, Commodore Perry, U.S.N. , appeared off the entrance
to Yedo Bay, with two large steam frigates and two sloops of war. He osten-
sibly i«)\ight at first only to abolish the barbarous Japanese laws, which con-
signed shipwrecked seamen to death, and their vessels to destruction. The
steady resistance to any intercourse, overawed by the presence of this formid-
able force, gradually gave way, and some concessions were granted before the
departure of the fleet, which left with a promise, or menace, from Commodore
Perry, that he intended to return for a more definite answer with a " larger
fleet" in the following year. Accordingly, on February 12th, 1854, a squadron
of nine war vessels appeared in the Bay of Yedo, and after skilful negotiation
a treaty of friendship was concluded between the Tycoon and the United States,
and permission was granted to locate a consul at Simoda, an insignificant place
at the South extreme of the Idsu Peninsula, on the West side of Yedo Bay.

The second stage of this international negotiation was reached by Mr. Harris,
the U.S. diplomat, who, by unremitting zeal, contrived to enter Yedo at the
end of 1857, not to leave it till April, 1858, with the treaty of commerce framed.
This great step was followed by similar concessions being granted to the prin-
cipal European powers ; and that with Great Britain was ratified at Yedo, July
11th, 1859. After all these apparent victories, it was discovered that these
treaties were illegal, having been made with the Tycoon of the period, whereas
it should have been ratified by the Mikado, but this was remedied by the ap-
pearance of the allied fleet from China, and the subsequent full recognition of
the rights of the external world to trade at various ports. Of the subsequent
troubles nothing can be said here. The works of Sir Kutherford Alcock, Capt.
Sherard Osborn, K.N., &c., &c., will supply all that can be I'equired.

The empire of Japan is composed of four large islands, Kiusiu, Sikok, Nipon,*
and Yezo, and numerous smaller islands, said to be above 3,800 in number, to-
gether extending about 900 miles. North and South, with an area of about
160,000 square miles. Nipon, or Honshiu, the largest and most important of
these, and that which gives its name to the whole empire, is more than 700
miles in length, N.E. and S.W., and its breadth varies from 50 to 150 miles.
South of Nipon, and separated from it by a narrow channel, is Kiusiu. Lying
N.E. of Kiusiu, and eastward of the South extreme of Nipon, is the island of
Sikok, about 130 miles in length. It is separated from Kiusiu by the Boungo

• Nipon is applied in Japan to tho whole ornpire. In the two words of the Chinese oha-
mcters which composo it, Jih Pun, it means the place of the riBingof tho Bun. Tho Japanese
soften the first letter into n, and so make it A'i Pun, tho Dutch spelling it Jch Pun, their>
corresponding with our y. The English, giving the harsher sound to j, cull it Japan ; so
Je<Ulo should be pronounced Yedo for the same reason, and is hereafter spelt so.

THE JAPANESE ARCHIPELAGO.

77»

ions between
ing some ad-
enunciated.
' the entrance
. He o8ten-
which con-
action. The
' this formid-
d before the
1 Commodore
th a "larger
4, a squadron
il negotiation
LTnited States,
nificant place
Yedo Bay.
)y Mr. Harris,
Yedo at the
merce framed,
d to the prin-
1 at Yedo, July
•ed that these
eriod, whereas
3d by the ap-
recognition of
;he subsequent
Alcock, Capt.
ired.

Sikok, Nipon,*
in number, to-
area of about
st important of
more than 700
I to 150 miles.
Kiusiu. Lying
s the island of
by the Boungo

I the Chinese oha-
9im. ThoJapaneBo
' it Jeh Pun, theiry
call it Japan ; so
pelt 80.

4
..J

Channel, and with Kiusiu and the western part of Nipon forms a basin or in-
land sea named Seto Ucbi. North of Nipon, and separated from it by the
Strait of Tsugar, is the large island of Yezo, a conquest and colony of Japan.
Its form is that of an irregular triangle.

The Japanese islands are exceedingly broken and mountainous, with numerous
peaks, of which Fusi yamfL in lat. 35° 21' 6", long. 138° 43jf', is the principal,
rising to an active volckno, the summit of which is 12,450 ft. above the sea.
There are no rivers of any great ma^rnitude, but numerous lakes exist.

The chief towns of Japan are now all joined with each other and with Europe
by electric telegraph ; railways are springing up near the chief ports, and coal
is being worked on European principles. A good indication of the progress
made by Japan in the last few years is afforded by the rapid lighting of the
coast. Of the numerous lights now exhibited not one was shown previous to
the year 1869, a few coal fires only marking the coast at night. In 1882 the
population of the empire numbered 36,358,994, and in 1884 there were 2,382
European residents in the country, 1,094 of whom were English.

In 1883, 946 foreign vessels, with a total tonnage of 1,098,772, entered the
various treaty ports, of which 589 vessels, with a total tonnage of 724,355, were
British. The imports, chiefly consisting of cotton and woollen goods, sugar,
kerosine, and metals, in 1883 amounted to £5,826,862 in value, of which
£3,184,457 came from Great Britain and the Colonies. The exports for the
same year, chiefly silk (including eggs and cocoons) and tea, amounted to
£7,456,055 in value, of which the United States took £2,759,967, and Great
Britain £1,183,059. The coasting trade is nearly all in the hands of the
Japanese, who have several shipping companies, including a line of steamers
running to Shanghai and Hong Kong.

Treaty Forts. — The following are the ports opened to British subjects by
treaty, between Her Majesty the Queen of Great Britain and Ireland and the
Mikado of Japan : — Kanagawa (including Yedo and Yokohama), in the Gulf
of Yedo ; Nagasaki, on the West coast of Kiusiu ; Hiogo (Kobe and Oosaka),
in the Isumi nada (eastern part of the Inland Sea) ; Niegata, on the N.W.
coast of Nipon ; and Hakodate, on the South coast of the Island of Yezo. Of
these, Kanagawa is by far the most important.

Pilots. — Pilot boats are painted black, with their number on the large sail,
and when licensed pilots are on board will fly a pilot flag, and by night carry
a bright light at the mast-head, and will show a flnshin,^ light every 15
minutes. Vessels requiring a pilot should hoist the nation u flag at the fore-
mast head, or the letters P.T. of the International Code. By night a green
light should be shown every 1 5 minutes, or a bright light, at intervals of about
u minute, over the side on the upper deck.

Climate. — The climate of Japan varies considerably between its southern
and northern extremes, the latter having almost a Siberian climate. Speaking
generally, the summer is short, damp, and hot, and the winter long, com-

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780

THE JAPANESE ARCHIPELAGO.

parativcly cold, and fine. Autumn and spring are the most pleasant seasons in
southern Japan. Rain is frequent throughout the year, but altogether it ia a
healthy climate for Europeans.

The high barometer indications and low temperatures which characterize the
winter in Japan are determined by the predominance of cold northern winds.
The prevailing winds in winter are, in Hakodate, N.W. and West ; in Niigata,
South, S.W,, West, and N.W. ; in Tokio, North and N.E. ; in Nagasaki, North
and N.W. From April or May until September blow warm southern winds.
On the Sea of Japan they are chiefly S.W. winds; but at Yokohama, and all the
places bordering on the Pacitic, South winds predominate. This summer mon-
soon does not prevail with at all the same strength and regularity as the cold
northern winds of winter. Calms are frequently interchanged with light va-
riable winds. — Professor J. J. Rein.

The following observations are made by Van Siebold : — " In speaking of ice,
frost, and snow, within 32" of the equator, we should consider the geographic
position of the Japanese Islands, and cite an observation which has been more
than once made, and at last confirmed by Alex, de Humboldt. The eastern
part of Europe, and the immense continent of Asia, are vastly colder, under
tho same latitude, than western Europe, making allowance for the greater or
less elevation above the sea level. The climate of islands being much milder
than that of continents, it can scarcely be comprehended that the temperature
should be lower in Japan than those European countries under the same lati-
tude. But the cause of this contradiction is found in the low temperature of
Asia, which, surrounding the Japanese and Kurile Islands on the West and
North: has a very decided influence on their climate. From the proximity of
the continent, and the winds blowing off" that coast during a portion of flie
year, the cold arises which prevails in Japan, particularly in the North and
N.W. Thus in lat. 32" N. tho thermometer descends on the coast to 30" and
29° Fahr. It freezes to several lines in thickness, and snow falls and remains
on the ground for several days. In lat. 36° the lakes, as those of Suwu on tho
Sinano, are covered with a bed of ice, which, between SS*- and 40", becomes
thick enough for the river to be crossed en foot. In the island of Tsusima
(lat. 34° 12' N., long. 129° 12' E.) rice will noi jrrow ; near Matssmae, in the
Island of Yezo, wheat returns but a very poor harvest; and on Cape Soja (iat.
45" 30' N., long. 141° 55' E.) the wild Ainos, a vigorout; race, are obliged
to retire into caverns, to preserve themselves from the intolerable rigour of
winter.

" On the other hand, the S.E. and eastern sides, protected from the freezing
winds of Asia by high chains of mountains, which traverse these great Islands
of Kiusiu, Sikok, and Nipon, in a direction parallel to the continent, have a
more fertile and more temperate climate. In those parts of the country be-
tween lot. 31° and 34", the palm, the banana, myrtle, and other plants of the
torrid zone, arc found. In some parts the sugar-cane is auccesiBfully cultivated,

mmmm

THE JAPANESE AllCHIPELAGO.

781

t seasons in
^her it ia a

acterize the
>em winds.

in Niigata,
isaki, North
lern winds.
, and all the
mmer mon-
as the cold
h light Ta-
lking of ice,
geographic
I been more
rhe eastern
Ider, under

greater or
uch milder
cmperature

same lati-
perature of

West and
roximity of
•tion of fhe
North and
; to 30" and
md remains
>uwu on the
1)°, becomes
of Tsusima
rnae, in the
)e Soja (lat.
are obliged
is rigour of

the freezing
reat Isiunds
ent, have a
country be-
lants of the
• cultivated,

and they gather two rice harvests each year. The environs of Sendai, a city in
lat. 38° 16' N., long. 140° 53' E., produce this grain in such abundance, that,
notwithstanding their northern position, they are in reality, as they are called,
the granaries of Yedo, the most populous city of the country.

" But it is more particularly in the rigorous season, which lasts from the
commencement of January to the end of February, that this difference between
the western and eastern shores of Japan becomes most remarkable. At Dezima
(Nagasaki^ for example, in lat. 32° 45' N., long. 129° 52' E., the thermometer
marks 45° Fahr. ; while at Yedo, in lat. 35° 40', long. 139° 48' E., it rises to
56°; so that the position of the capital, more easterly by 9" 56' than Nagasaki,
raises its temper!^*^^iire liigher by 1 1°, although it is 3° nearer the pole. Thus
in the two months of winter in which these observations were made, the coasts
facing the Asiatic continent were exposed for thirty-seven days consecutively
to the freezing winds from N.W. and North. This circumstance explains, be-
sides, why the white mountain (Siro yamaj, which is on the western coast of
Nipon, in lat. 36° 10', is covered with perpetual snow at 8,200 ft. above the sea ;
and why Fusi yama, at the eastern extremity of the island, with its summit at
12,450 ft., remains without snow for months together.

" During the hot weather in July and August, when the winds blow from
South and 8.E., this disproportion in the temperature disappears, and the mean
height of the thermometer for this season is 79° at Dezima, and 76° at Yedo.
On the South and S.E. coasts, then refreshed by these winds, it hardly exceeds
85° ; nevertheless in the South and S.W. parts of Kiusiu, and chiefly in the
bays sheltered from the breezes, it often rises to 90° and 98°, and sometimes
even to 100°."

In the above description no mention is made of the I' o Riwo, which con-
siderably influences the climate of the coasts along which it flows.

At Hakodate the climate in winter is variable. In the winter of IS.'JO — 60,
the greatest depression of the thermometer was 12°. The characttr of the
winter season is uneven, and acts prejudicially on the health, in consequence
of the great variability of the atmosphere, thaws and sharp frosts alternating.
North-westerly winds blow for four months, and snow fell in the winter of
1859 daily for six weeks. Sir R. Alcock says the winter is almost Siberian,
with long continued and heavy falls of snow, the thermometer standing many
degrees below zero.

Storm Warnings are exhibited at the principal ports as follows : — For
storm approaching, the direction of which is not precisely known : A ball, or
at night a red light. Storm from northward : One cone with apex up, or by
night three red lights, one above and two below. Storm from southward :
One cone with apex down, or by night three red lights, two above and one
below.

Fogg are very prevalent on the coasts of Japan, especially in the northern
parts. lu Juno and July fogs occur frequently in Korea Strait ; fiirther to the

»k

782

THE JAPANESE ARCHIPELAGO.

North they envelope the coasts of Manchuria till the middle of July. Thun-
derstorms arc neither frequent nor violent.

Earthqnakes. — The whole region of the Japanese Islands is Tolcanic, and
many of the eruptions are fraught with extreme danger to ships. At Yedo,
one occurred in August, 1783, exceeding in its horrors and wide-spread deso-
lation that of Lisbon. Another occurred at Yedo on NoTember 10th, 1855,
which is said to have caused the destruction of 100,000 dwellings and 54 i.^ u-
plcs, and the death of 30,000 persons. In 1854 the town of Simoda was re-
duced to ruins. Simabara, in Kiusiu, is also a locality of terrible earthquakes,
one of which is said to have altered the whole feature and coast line of the
neighbouring province.

The Japanese Carrent, or Karo Siwo, as it is called by the Japanese in one
point of its course, is an immense stream which rushes past the southern coasts
of the Japanese Archipelago towards the N.E., and is exactly analogous to the
Gulf Stream in the North Atlantic. It has been observed by every voyager in
these regions ; and, like the Atlantic stream, may be traced to a great distance
to the eastward, and evidences of 'his drift have been frequently found on the
American coast, as in the remains of junks, or of these vessels with their crews
being drifted on to the American territories, as previously related.

But the Pacific current differs from the Atlantic stream in not being confined
in a narrow channel at its outset, and in the strongest part of its course. Hence
its velocity and direction are not so constant, and some great variations in the
current have been experienced, and these, too, without any apparent cause.
Thus there can be no dependance placed on its rate or direction, and inshore it
is certainly controlled or altered by tidal action. In a later part of this work
this remarkable stream will be noticed more at length, in the section specially
I'evoted to currents.

The Japanese Archipelago has never been properly surveyed. Some portions
have been minutely examined, especially the vicinities of the treaty ports where
European commerce has hitherto been allowed. In addition to the surveys
made by the officers of the American squadron in 1853-4, and the British fleet
in 1863, there are various portions derived from the surveys of Commander
J. Ward, R.N., in the Rifleman: of Commanders Brooker and Aldrich, R.N.,
in the Sylvia; of Lieut. Carpenter, R.N., in the Magpie; of Lieut. Hoskyn,
R.N., in the Flying Fish ; and especially of Commander C. Bullock, R.N., in
the Serpent ; and of Oapt. St. John and Lieut. Pearce, R.N., in the Sylvia*

All these and others have been connected together by a most remarkable

* Among the more rccont and numerous books of travel, &c., relating to Japan, we may
mention " New Japan," by Mr. Samuel Mossman, 1873; "Notes and Sketches from tho
Wild Coasts of Nipon," by Capt. H. C. St. John, H.M.8. Sylvia, 1880; "Unloaton Tracks
in Japan," by Miss I. L. Bird, 1880 and 1885; "Japan," by Professor J. J. Rein, 1884, a
ttandard work on tho country and its people ; and "A Handbook for Travellers in Coutrol
aud Nuilheru Jupau," by Mr. £. M. Sutow and Lieut. A. U. S. Uawos, 1884.

'mMs^JjtjmSMmmJltm

ISLAND OF KIUSIU.

783

Thua-

map. During the political negotiations this perfect representation of the empire
was delivered to our representatives, and it was found to be a regular trigo-
nometrical survey of 6 miles to an inch, and so accurate that, when tested by
the surveyors, it was found that very great reliance could be placed on it. Such
a geographical work deserves especial mention.*

The ensuing brief directions are principally taken from those given in the
China Pilot ; and, though belonging to various authors, have been collected,
arranged, and amplified by Commanders C. Bullock and F. W. Jarrad, K.N.
Iliese directions, here much condensed, commence with the southern extremity
of the Archipelago, and, ?^^hough this is a different arrangement to the pre-
ceding portion of this work, it has been followed here, as it is thought more
cuuveuicut than proceeding from the northward.

ISLAND OF KIUSIU.

The word Kiusiu, according to Kosmpfer, signifies " country of nine," in
reference to its division into nine larger provinces. It is about 180 miles in
length North and South, and about SO miles in average breadth. It is separated
from Nipon by the Simonoseki Channel, which at its western entrance is only
about half a mile in width. The strait which separates it from Sikok also is
contracted to 7 miles broad at one point. The Strait of Van Diemen forms its
southern boundary, and the Strait of Corea, or Korai, is on the western side.

VAN DIEMEN STRAIT separates Kiusiu from a group of volcanic islands,
which, extending in a S.S.W. direction, connect this extremity of Japan with
the volcanic ranges of the Philippine Islands, and will be described in a future
Chapter. Nana shima no selo, or Van Diemen Strait, separates Kiusiu Island
from the islands Kuro sima, Iwoga sima. Take sima. Make sima, and Tanega sima,
on the S.W. and South ; it is clear of dangers, and consequently safe, but a
spot of 8 fathoms was reported by H.M.S. Eoebuck, in 1859, to lie about 2^
miles S.S.W. of Satano misaki, the South point of Kiusiu. Making this strait
from the westward, Kuro sima, 2,028 ft. high, the active volcano Iwoga sima,
2,331 ft. high, and the lofty cone-shaped mountain Okaimon dake or Mount
Horner, 3,020 ft. high, on the West side of the entrance to Kagosima Gulf,

• There is a sad story in connexion with this map, which is related in Commodore
Pony's " Narrotive," page 88. The story is thus told by a modern writer on Japan ; " Von
Siobold had been with Colonel Strurler, the Dezima chief, to Yedo ; tho Japanese astrono-
mer, Takahasi Lakutaimon, had, in violation of the law, fvurnished him with a copy of a
recently made map of Japan. The draughtsman who made the copy having become, from
some cause, offended wi^h tho astronomer, denounced him to the authorities. An investi-
gation followed, which lasted a year. Von Sicbold was banished from Japan ; and Tiikn-
hasi, and the draughtsman who accused him, both committed suicide." This occurred prior
to the commencement of thu Americun Expedition iu 1853.

784

THE JAPANESE ARCHIPELAGO.

form conspicuous landmarks. The only drawback to the navigation of this
chanv'el is the heavy weather and thick atmosphere usually met with off
Satano misaki ; the Japan Stream setting strong to E.N.K. through the strait
at all times causes the latter to become a serious disadvantage, which is, how-
ever, somewhat lessened by the light now exhibited on the above cape. Vessels
are cautioned against passing southward of Iwoga sima, as there are detached
rocky shoals and very uneven bottom in that direction.

SATANO MISAKI, or Cape Chichakoff, the southern point of Kiusiu, is
bold and rocky, rising steeply to a wooded range 750 ft. in height, the moun-
tains at the back, from which it is a spur, rising to a considerable elevation,
and culminating in a peak 2,948 ft. high. A small islet lies 1^ cable southward
of the cape, and several detached rocks also lie close around it. This cape is
well known to vessels trading to Japan, and has attained celebrity from the fact
that almost constant bad weather is experienced in its vicinity, violent gales
with a thick murky atmosphere rendering the passage through Van Diemen
Strait at times somewhat perilous. Heavy tide races occur off the cape.

LIOHT. — On the island off the cape is a white iron lighthouse, 32 ft. high,
showing a fixed bright light, elevated 200 ft., and visible 21 miles seaward
between N.E. by E. i E. and N.W. by N. ^ N., through East, South, and
West. Lat. 30° 58' 30" N., long. 130° 40' E.

At 5 miles northward of Satano misaki is Talsume no hana, a bold and rocky
point, 1} mile N.E. of which is a small bay, in which anchorage may be ob-
tained in 12 to 13 fathoms. About 2 miles beyond this is another indentation,
with anchorage in 9 to 10 fathoms, sand, the best anchorage in this locality.

KAOOSIMA OULF is an arm of the sea, 35 miles in length, and from 5 to
10 miles in breadth, running in a northerly direction into the southern part of
Kiusiu. It is surrounded by high mountains, except to the North. Kami se,
a rock awash at low water, lies in the middle of the entrance, at 4 miles N.N. W.
from Tatsume no hana. At 25 miles within its entrance the large inhabited
island of Sakura, 3,636 ft. high, and 4 to 5 miles in diameter, nearly fills the
head of the gulf, with deep channels on both sides leading into an inner gulf,
or spacious harbour, 6 miles by 9, and quite landlocked.

Yama gawa, a small harbour on the West side of the entrance to the gulf,
is the crater of an extinct volcano. Its North part opens East to the sea by a
funnel-shaped passage a quarter of a mile in length, but only 1^ cable wide tit
its inner part, formed between a shoal bank extending 1 mile from the South
shore, and a reef extending 3^ cables from the North shore. There is 3f to 4^
fathoms over the bar, with a patch of 2 fathoms in the centre. No vessel
should attempt to enter in bad weather, although a vessel of 1,000 tons may
lie there at anchor, or moored to the shore. Inside the harbour the water is
deep. Supplies of fish, fowls, and fruit may be procured from the inhabitants
It is high water, on full and change, at 7'" 32"" ; springs rise 9J ft.

Kasa she, or IVatars Rock, two dangerous sunken rocks, the outer of 2J ft..

^ . ———»,—=

KIUSIU ISLAND— KAGOSIMA.

785

nnd the inner of 9 ft. water, lie close together, E. J N., 7 cables from Oo saki,
the North entrance point of Yama gawa, with a depth of 6 fathoms between.

At 4 miles northward of Oo saki is Tsiring sima, nearly a mile from the
West shore, with which it is connected by a reef; it is from 150 to 200 feet,
high. On the eastern shore, opposite. Racehorse Shoal extends about 2} miles
ofiF, leaving a passage about 3 miles wide. From hence the gulf extends 17
miles northward to Sakura Island, with a breadth of about 10 miles.

In the southern part of the channel westward of Sakura is Kami she, or
Parker Shoal, dry at low water ; temporary anchorage may be obtained on its
S.W. side. A fort stood on this shoal in 1863. Okiko and Karasu Islands
lie close off the S.W. and West part of Sakura. Several islets and rocks lio
off the N.E. side.

KAGOSIMA. — On the western shore, facing Sakura, stands the city of
Kagosima, formerly the fortress of the Daimio, Prince of Satsuma. Battery
Point, to the South of the city, is low, and has a spit extending from and
around it to 2 cables, very steep at its edge ; a shoal also fills the bay North
of this point. Off the centre of Kagosima, in front of the Daimio's castle, is
an inner harbour or iurge camber, gained by entrances between five forts of
masonry, which have deep water close up to them ; this castle cannot be seen
from the gulf. There is a cannon-shot foundry here, worked by Japanese, and
the town is in telegraphic communication with Nagasaki.

Two small rivers disembogue, one on the North side of the city with long
spits off its points of entrance ; the other, flowing through the southern part
of the city, falls into the shallow bay just North of Battery Point.

Light. — On the North end of the breakwater fronting Ben-ten Fort, tajised
red light, elevated 45 ft., and visible 6 miles, is shown from a staff.

Anchorage. — The extreme depth of the water in the gulf renders anchorage
anywhere very difficult ; the fleet found indifferent anchorage close to the
beach on the western shore, near the Seven Rocks, 4 or 5 miles South of
Kagosima.

The western shore of Sakura is very bold, but anchorage in from 12 to 25
fathoms may be found E. i N. of the castle of Kagosima, very close in. In an
easterly gale there is danger of driving off the bank into very deep water, and
having to slip the cables. Anchorage also may be obtained generally in the
southern part of the channel, in from 21 to 24 fathoms. At the head of the
gulf on the small bank off Hamaichi, and North of Ko sima or Havock Islands,
there is anchorage in from 7 to 9 fathoms.

The COAST for 140 miles to the north-eastward, comprising the whole of
the East coast of Eausiu is comparatively unknown. The land is generally high
and wooded.

Odomari Bay, 2 miles eastward of Satano misaki, has an average width of 3
cables, and affords excellent shelter, for only two steam vessels, from northerly
North Facific. 5 h

786

THE JAPANESE ARCHIPELAGO.

1 1 1

and north-westerly winds. A few fowls may occasionally be obtained from the
village. Kanon Saki, in 3P 10' N., is a bold headland, projecting slightly fi'om
the general line of the coast.

He saki, a prominent, bare point, 786 ft. high, is about 10^ miles N.E. oi
Kanon saki, and at 12 miles farther is Toi no misaki, a steep, bluff headland,
982 ft. high, with three remarkable knobs of trees on its summit, as seen from
the N.E. Several detached rocks lie off it. It is proposed to erect a light-
house on this point. Between these two points is the entrance of Ariaki no
wa, or Taaman Bay, which extends about 11 miles to N.W., but affords no
protection from winds between South and East ; excellent shelter may be ob-
tained from hard northerly and westerly gales any wjtiei-e off the N.W. shore, in
5 to 7 fathoms.

Osprey Breakers, reported, in 1864, in lat. 31° 27' N., long. 131° 40' E.,have
not since been seen. It is believed that they were caused by the current over-
fall.

Abnratsu Harbour, about 13 miles N. by E. of Toi no misnki, is the only
safe anchorage on the S.E. coast of Kiusiu. It is formed by Oo sima, and
may be entered by vessels of any size either northward or southward of that
island. Vessels of moderate size can anchor in 3^ to 4 fathoms off the town ;
large vessels can anchor in 9 to 10 fathoms, half a mile westward of the North
part of Oo sima.

LIOHTHOTJSE.— On the South point of Oo sima is a white lighthouse, 32
feet high, showing a bright light, revolving every half minute, elevated 287 ft.,
and visible 24 miles, between N. by E. and N.W. by N. (315°).

Kay eta or To saki, or Cape Cochrane, in lat. 31° 47', is a low hilly point,
terminating in a wooded knob 290 ft. high. Rocks extend off the coast be-
tween it and Abaratsu, and a reef extends 3 cables N.E. of the cape. Nelly
Rocks (Odo no se), reported, in 1863, by the British barque of that name, have
1 to 3 fathoms water over them, and extend three-quarters of a mile North and
South ; their central part being 3J miles East of Cape Cochrane. The coast
from Kayeta saki to Kuma sima, a distance of 38 miles, is a nearly straight
sandy beach, broken only by the mouths of a few rivers.

Kuma sima or Hoso sima Harbour, in lat. 32° 23', is a secure and well
sheltered anchorage for a large number of vessels. It is a narrow creek, the
entrance open to the N.E., and extending about a mile to its head. During
typhoons the winds at East and S.E. are usually the strongest ; Hoso sima
Harbour would thus afford shelter during the season when those storms occur.
A vessel in distress might safely be beached at the head of the bay. Anchorage
may be obtained in 6 fathoms immediately on opening out the village.

From hence the coast trends to the N.E. by N. to Sura saki, a bold bluff,
the eastern point of Kiusiu. Here the coast turns to N.N.W. to Sagano saki,
the N.E. point of Kiusiu. All this coast is much indented, and off its northern
part lie numerous islands. Inokushi Harbour, in lat. 32° 46', long. 131° 55',

TEE SOUTH COAST OF SIKOK.

787

18 said to be a secure anchorage in all weathers. Idi lima Harbour, a per-
fectly secure anchorage in 32° 59' N., lies between O Idi sima and the mainland,
with 8 fathoms, mud bottom. Sagano saki is a nearly detached mass of land,
triangular in shape, and 650 ft. high, with a village on the narrow neck con-
necting it with the main land. Numerous islets and rocks lie off the coast.

The SOUTH COAST of SIKOK, from Isa saki at the eastern entrance to
the Boungo Channel, to I sima at the western entrance to the Kii Channel, is
also as yet unsurvcyed. This coast is about 150 miles in extent, and is divided
by the projecting peninsula, of which Murato saki is the extreme point, into
two bights, that to the westward being the deeper. It is very broken in out-
line, with several deep indentations.

Isa saki, the southern extreme of Sikok, is a bluff headland, at the ex-
tremity of a peninsula having two peaks about 1,500 ft. high. Simidsu is an
excellent landlocked harbour, for small vessels, 4 miles N.W. of Isa saki, with
a depth of 5 to 6 fathoms.

Sasaki and Nomi Harbours. — The coast of Sikok, between Ootzu saki and
Ko sima no hana, forms a deep bight Z^ miles wide, and 4 miles in depth,
forming two inlets extending to the nortbward and eastward, in which are the
villages of Susaki and Nomi. Susaki is situated on the western low shore of
the northern inlet, in which is excellent sheltered anchorage. The eastern
shore of the inlet is steep-to, and should be kept on board. The usual an-
chorage is in 7 fathoms, with the low point of Susaki bearing S.W. i S. The
battery just below the temples is in lat. 33" 23' 18" N., long. 133" 17' 48" E.

Nomi Harbour, the eastern inlet, is secure and spacious, formed between
two peninsulas, the southern one having several islands and ro'iks off it. The
western chain, of which Naka no sima and Hey sima are the largest, }>rotect8
the anchorage, which is in 10 fathoms, 2^ cables off the village, fronr southerly
winds. Vessels entering either harbour should pass about half p. mile west-
ward of Hey sima, and in entering Nomi Harbour should koep the northern
shore on board. The southern chain of islets and rocks extends to the wooded
islet Ko sima in a S.S.E. direction. A rock, which uncovers, lies If cable
south-westward of Ko sima ; another at 3^ cables from its South point ; and
Breaker Rock, which uncovers at low water, lies S. by W. J W., IJ mile
from it.

Ura-no-TTtsi, 9 miles eastward of Nomi, is barred across the entrance by a
sand-bank. Some shelter may be obtained in S.W. winds, in 4 to 8 fathoms.

Wurato or Kotsi Inlet has a narrow and difficult entrance, but vessels of 15
feet draught may enter at springs. The outer anchorage, in 7 fathoms, sand,
cannot be recommended. On the South point of entrance, in lat. 33° 30' N.,
long. 133° 36' E., is a white lighthouse, 31 ft. high, showing a. Jixed bright
light, elevated 102 ft., and visible 10 miles, between N.W. J N. and S.W. by
8. i S. (247°), but obscured by land between N. 24° E. and N. 29° E.

B0T7NOO CHANNEL, which separates the islands Kiusiu and Sikok, and

t I

I 1 1

788

THE JAPANESE ARCHIPELAGO.

is the S.W. entrance to the Seto Uohi, is from 7 to 20 miles broad, and its shores
are singularly broken into projecting peninsulas. It was passed by Keompfer
and Thunberg, and they speak of the thousands of islands with which it is en-
cumbered. The allied squadron, under Admiral Sir A. L. Kuper, entered it in
August and September, 1864, and found it free from danger, and the Japanese
charts correct. Caution, however, is requisite in approaching the shores.
During spring tides the stream often sets through the northern entrance with
great velocity (6 knoto), and then during the flood stream, which makes to the
northward, a heavy tide-race forms off Mi saki.

Okino lima, a large island forming the eastern point of the Sotlfh entrance
to this channel, is 1,150 ft. high, and may be seen in clear weather at 35 miles.
To the northward of it, also towards Hima sima and towards the main land to
the eastward, the space appeared to be rocky foul ground.

Midzu-no-ko or Eoryalns Sook, named after H.M.S. Euryalua, is a small
rocky islet, 60 ft. high, lying in the middle of Boungo Channel, 25 miles N.W.
of Okino sima. It is surrounded by rocky shoals, some abo>.. water, to the dis-
tance of half a mile. It occupies a most excellent position for a lighthouse.

Takanaba, the island lying nearly in the middle of the northern entrance of
the channel, has two small rocks above water, at 2 cables N.W. of it, and reefs
extend nearly half a mile off in several places. The passage on the West side,
between it and Sagano saki, is encumbered with reefs, but the eastern passage
is free from danger. Mi saki, the narrow sharp point terminating the remark-
able peninsula which forms the western point of Sikok, is 150 ft. high, and has
off it two small islets.

THE SETO UOHI OR INLAND SEA.

The great Inland Sea of Japan, called by the Japanese Seto Uchi (Inner
Strait), is enclosed between the S.W. coast of Nipon, which entirely bounds it
on the North and East, and the Islands of Kiusiu and Sikok, which bound it
on the West and South. It extends somewhat in an East and West direction,
240 miles in length, with a breadth varying from 3 to 30 miles. It has six
divisions called nadas or seas, taking their names generally from the provinces,
the coasts of which they wash ; thus, the western part of the sea, as far as the
Boungo Channel, is called the Suwo nada ; and, proceeding East, we have in
succession, lyo nada, Misima nada. Bingo nada, Harima nada, and, lastly,
Isumi nada, sometimes called the Gulf of Oosaka.

The Seto Uchi was first navigated by H.M.S. Cruizer, in 1859, and it was
passed throughout by the allied fleet under Admiral Sir A. L. Kuper, in 1864.
It contains upwards of 300 islands and rocks, with numerous shoals nnd dan-
gers, and has a sea-board of nearly 700 miles, on which are situated numerous
villages ond large towns, and several of the provincial capitals. It abounds
with safe and convenient anchorages, and communicates with the Pacific by

I, and its shorca
I by Ksompfer
which it is en-
r, entered it in
d the Japanese
ig the shores,
entrance with
h makes to the

SoUfh entrance
ler at 35 miles,
le main land to

alui, is a small
25 miles N.W.
iter, to the dis-
i lighthouse.
;rn entrance of
of it, and reefs
the West side,
'astern passage
Dg the remark-
. high, and has

Uchi (Inner
irely bounds it
ivhich bound it
kVest direction,
!8. It has six
the provinces,
a, as far as the
St, we have in
a, and, lastly,

59, and it was
[uper, in 1864.
loals nnd dan-
lated numerous
i. It abounds
the Pacific by

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SETO UCIII-WESTERN FNTRANCE.

789

Kii Channel on the East, and by Doungo Channel, between Kiusin and Rilcok,
on the South ; and with the Sea of Japan by the Strait of Simonoseki on the
West. There is a great maritime trade along its po,;,'ilous shores, as well as
the through traffic to Oiisaka, one of the chief seats of commerce of the empire,
and the seaport of its ancient capital, Miako.

The Scto Uchi can be navigated with safety at all seasonn of the year, and
even under favourable circumstances during the night, the more particularly
now that it is lighted and a correct chart of it has been published. In winter,
when westerly gales are so prevalent, sailing vessels would probably gain time
liy tiding through this sea, rather than by endeavouring to beat round Satano
misaki.

Snppliei. — Water, of excellent quality, can be procured almost at any an-
chorage, and fowls and fish can be obtained at the villages. A very destructive
species of moUusk inhabits the Seto Uchi, and might prove very injurious to
ships' bottoms.

Tides. — The tides and currents of the Seto Uchi are fairly well known. The
tide vave comes from the Pacific by Kii and Uoungo Channels ; from the latter
it branches East and West, meeting the Kii Channel tide at about Awa sima,
in ' )ng. 133° 38' E., at the eastern entrance of the Bingo nnda.

The WESTERN ENTRANCE to the Seto Uchi is at its outer part 35 miles
across, being formed by the West coast of Nipon running South for 25 miles
from Kado sima, and the North coast of Kiusiu taking an easterly direction
for the same distance, from Wilson Island. At the angle where these coasts
meet within 3 miles is the large island Hiku sima, South of which is the fair-
way and entrance to the Strait of Simonoseki.

Kosime no oosima, or Wilson Island, 3 miles off the coast, and 2 miles
W.S.W. from Koko sima, is remarkable from its prominent position off the
entrance to the Inland Sea. It is flat, 6 miles in circumference, and surmounted
by a clump of trees, the highest part being elevated 854 ft., and visible in clear
weather 30 miles. A large fishing village lies on its eastern shore between
two rooky points, off which rocks extend for nearly a mile. Serpent Rock,
with 6 ft. on it at low water, lies immediately off the village, and nearly 1 mile
from the North point of the island. A rock, with less than 6 ft. on it, lies
half a mile from the N.E. point, with Hound Rock bearing E. by 8. i S., distant
14 cables. A shoal extends eastward of the S.E. point, with 3 fathoms on its
outer end, at a distance of 6 cables.

Koko sima, 600 ft. high, lies 2 miles E.N.E. from Wilson Island, the channel
between having a depth of 5 to 12 fathoms. PVom its S.E. point a long stony
spit extends nearly to the land. There is anchorage on both sides of it.
Bound Rock, 30 ft. high, lies 7^ cables to N.W. A rocky patch of 15 ft. lies
E. i N., 3J miles from the North point, with the outer high peak of Kiusiu
(1,900 ft.) bearing S. by W. i W., 3i miles. The clump on Wilson Island,
kept open of the North point of Koko sima, leads northward of it.

'I't

;i ! ;

THE JAPANESE ARCHIPELAGO.

From Kanega saki, abreast of Kokn sima, the coast trends E.N.E., 8J miles,
to Iwaya Point, the western point of the approach to Simonoseki Strait. As
this part has not been very closely examined, gieat caution is necessary in
approaching it.

Siro lima, — These two islands, 6 cables apart, and each half a mile long,
lie W. by N. J N., 16 miles, from the outer point of Wilson Island. The N.E.
island, 447 ft. high, with a wooded summit of rounded outline, has two high
rocks off its rugged North point, and a shoal spit running 4 cables off its South
point. The S. W. island is indented, its eastern sharp peak being 282 ft. high ;
there is shoal water off its South point, but its West point is steep-to. A rocky
shoal extends IJ mile S. by E. of the eastern point. A rocky patch with less
than 2 fathoms on it, half a mile long East and West, lies S, by E. 3 miles from
the eastern sharp peak, and W. by N. | N. 2J miles from Iwaya Point.

Iwaya Point, low and rocky, with projecting ledges, is about 5 miles S.S.W.
of Siro sima, at the termination of a sandy bay 5 miles wide. A conspicuous
wooded hill, 1,100 ft. high, with a round gap in its summit, rises 5 miles
S.W. by W. i W. of the point.

Eastward of Iwaya Point the shore is generally low and skirted with ledges,
but the back ranges are from 2,000 to 4,000 ft. high. The shore of Nipon is
higher, but its hill ranges are lower.

Masui sima, or Notch Island, lies 6 miles N.E. by N. of North Siro sima,
and 3 miles from the shore of Nipon, off Cape Morotzu, the hills over which
are 1,000 ft. high. The channel between is free from known danger. The
northern part of this island is a triple-topped bluff, 900 ft. high ; on the West
coast, about the middle, there is a rery sharp peak. A Bmall rook lies 1 mile
E.S.E. of the South bluff.

Ai-no lima, or Flat Island, 6 miles S. by E. from Masui sima, is a flat island,
84 ft. high, coyered with trees, and 1 mile in length. Reefs, dry or sunken,
extend about 1 mile northward off its North point, their northern extremity
being marked by a conical red buoy, bearing a cage, moored in 5 fathoms. A
spit runs 5^ cables southward of the South point ; foul ground also extends 8
cables E.N.E. of this point, at 7 cables distant marked by a small square rock.

Lighthouse. — Shirasu, or Low Reef, lying 1 J mile S.W. of Ai-no sima, is
nearly 6 cables in extent. North and South, and near its South end is a light-
house, 48 ft. high, painted in black and white bands, from which is shown a
fxed red light, elevated 44 ft., and visible 10 miles.

Boktireii Island, or Mntsure, 2 miles S.E. by E. of Ai-no sima, has on its
table land a large and conspicuous clump of trees, 340 ft. above the sea, which
is visible after rounding Wilson Island, when it will bear about E. ^ N. A
spit extends 2 cables from the North point. The U-ma sima group of islets
and rocks lies to the S.W. of Rokurcn, a shoal bank joining them.

LIGHTHOUSE. — On the East extreme of Rokureu is a granite lighthouse,
84 ft. high, showing a. fixed bright light, elevated 89 ft., and visible 12 miles,

SETO UCHI— THE STEAIT OF SIMONOSEKI.

.791

.E., 8J mile?,
i Strait. As
necessary in

f a mile long,
i. TheN.E.
las two high
I off its South
282 ft. high ;
)-to. A rocky
itch with less
3 miles from
Point.

miles S.S.W.
. conspicuous
rises 5 miles

I with ledges,
: of Nipon is

th Siro sima,
t over which
danger. The
on the West
3k lies 1 mile

n a flat island,
7 or sunken,
;m extremity
fathoms. A
Iso extends 8
I square rock.
Li-no sima, is
ad is a light-
1 is shown a

la, has on its

ho sea, which

t E. i N. A

roup of islets

:c lighthouse,

ble 12 miles,

between N.W. J N. (leading half a mile North of the shoal ground North of
Ai-no sima) and S. by W. J W., through North, East, and South.

HIKU SIMA, lying at the western entrance of Simonoseki Strait, is 3 miles
in extent North and South, and has a smooth green hill, 365 ft. high, on its
North point. Its western point. Cape Skikttis, is a low rocky promontory,
with an island off it, which, as dangers extend a quarter of a mile off it, should
not be approached nearer than 4 cables. Its S.W. point, Entrance Head, is a
wooded bluf)!, 372 ft. high. The island is separated from Nipon by a narrow
shallow channel, named Kosedo Strait.

Light. — A. fixed bright light is occasionally shown about two-thirds up the
hill, on tho North point of entrance to Fuku-ura, a small shallow harbour near
th(3 South end of the island.

There is a small anchoinge on the S.E. side of Masui sima. There is an-
chorago also along the .Nfipon shore, .East of Ai-no sima and Rokuren, in 7 and
9 fathoms, but the coast should not be approached within half a mile, as it is
fringed with reefs; northward of this the reefs extend a mile off shore. If,
however, there be sufficient daylight to get round Ilokuren, it is recommended
to do 80 instead of anchoring outside for the night, and bring-to on tho bank
half a mile South of the U-ma sima group, in 6 or 7 fathoms. There is also
anchorage in 8 to 10 fathoms, eastward of Eamo Bank. Directions are given
hereafter.

It is high water at the western entrance of Simonoseki Strait, on full and
change, at 9'' 0"' ; springs rise about 4 ft., neaps 1| foot.

The STRAIT of SIMONOSEKI, commencing at Entrance Head, the S.W.
point of Hiku sima, is 7 miles in length, with a navigable channel varying from
3 to 7 cables in breadth, but the entrances arc encumbered with sand-banks.
It was surveyed by Capt. St. John, H.M.S. Sylvia, 1872-5. The town of Si-
monoseki stands on the Nipon shore, 4 miles within the entrance.

Hiku Flat, 1 mile W.N.VV, of Entrance Head, is a bank of sandstone rock
8 cables long, and 3 cables broad, with 13 ft. water on it. A red huoy, bear-
ing a cage, lies in 9 fathoms, 8 cables N.W. J W. from Manaita Rocks beacon.

Kokura Ledije is a flat of sand and rock, with shoal patches on it, fronting
the low shore of Kiusiu, South of Hiku sima, where stands the town ot Kokura
on a small stream called Ogawa. The flat extends from 1 to 2 miles ofl' shore.
Hamo Bank, of 3 J to 5 fathoms, lies 4 cables N.E. of Hiku Flat, and extends
6 cables N.W. and S.E., forming a channel 3 cables wide between it and the
shoal bank extenduig from Hiku sima.

Manaita Rocks, lying nearly 2 cables South of Entrance Head, imcover
towards low water, and are marked by a conical beacon, 20 ft. high, painted in
black and white rings, and surmounted by a ball. Narusi Rock, a quarter of
a mile S.W. of Kibuuc Point, the S.E. point of Hiku sima, and IJ cable off
shore, uncovers before half ebb, and is also marked by a white conical beacon,
20 ft. high, surmounted by a pcnr-slmped top.

I t 'I

THE JAPANESE ARCHIPELAGO.

Yodsibi Rock lies 4J cables E.N.E. of Kibune Point, and is best avoided by
bugging tbc Hiku sima shore. It only shows at low tide, and is marked by a
conical red beacon, 30 ft. high. It may be passed on either side, but the
western channel is the wider.

SIMONOSEKI, or Shimonosakl, is an important town from its position at
the entrance of the Inland Sea. It is formed of a single principal street run-
ning for nearly 2 miles at the base of some low steep hills along the shore of
Nipon. Its most conspicuous buildings arc the telegraph and custom houses,
the latter recognized by its tall white gables.

Supplies of beef, vegetables, and fruit can be obtained at moderate prices.
The coal, which is much used here in the forging of nails, was of the worst
possible description, and gave 75 per cent, of ash and earthy matter. Water
of excellent quality was brought off in buckets in large boats. The Japan Mail
Company's steamers call here weekly.

To anchor off the town, take a position well below the custom-house, in 6 to
10 fathoms, out of the tides, which are very rapid through the narrows, with
strong eddies along the shore during the western stream.

Tides. — It is high water at Simonoseki, on full and change, at S*" 30" ;
springs rise 8 ft., neaps 6 ft. The western or flood stream makes at 2J hours
before high water, the eastern stream 2 J hours after high water, so that the
western stream continues 5 hours, and the eastern 7 hours.

Off Mozi saki the velocity at springs is 7 to 8 knots, at neaps 3 to 4 knots ;
the current is at its full strength for 3 hours of each tide. There are heavy
overfalls in the eastern part of the strait at springs.

The Eastern Entrance to Simonoseki Strait lies between I saki and Kusi
saki, 2 J miles apart ; but it is divided into three channels by two extensive
sand-banks, named Middle Ground and Tano Bank.

LIOHTHOnSE. — / saki, the eastern promontory of the North point of
Kiusiu, may be passed at a distance of 2 cables. On its extremity is a granite
lighthouse, 30 ft. high, from which is exhibited & fixed \\<^h.i, elevated 122 ft.,
and visible 16 miles; it shows rec/ from W. by N., through North and East,
to S.E. f E., and bright thence, over deep water, to S. i W.

Ensi saki, the North point of entrance, has a reef extending 1 to 1^ cable
off it. To the north-eastward is the village of Toyo, and the ruins of the large
military station of Chofn. Kanziu and Manziu are two wooded islands, 6J
cables and li mile respectively, E. by N. of Kusi saki. Eanziu is low and flat,
with some rocks off its South point. Manziu is 198 ft. high.

Midway between Kusi saki and I saki, the Middle Ground, a bank of sand,
extends If mile East and West ; it is from a half to 3 cables in width, with
from 1 to 3 fathoms on it. This bank divides the strait into two channels,
that to the northward carrying the deepest water. A red buoy, with a cage,
is moored in 3 fathoms on the western patch, 4|^ cables from the West extreme,
with Kusi saki bearing N.W. by N. \ N., distant I mile ; and I saki light-

SETO UCHI— SIMONOSEKI STRAIT.

793

is best avoided by
nd is marked by a
ther side, but the

rom its position at
incipal street run-
long the shore of
id custom houses,

t moderate prices,
was of the worst
y matter. Water
The Japan Mail

tom-house, in 6 to
he narrows, with

inge, at 8^ 30";
lakes at 2i hours
'ater, so that the

3 to 4 knots ;
There are heavy

1 1 saki and Kusi
by two extensive

North point of
'mity is a granite
elevated 122 ft.,
North and East,

g 1 to li cable
uins of the large
aded islands, 6^
11 is low and flat,

a bank of sand,
in width, with
• two channels,
•y, with a cage,
; West extreme,
d I saki light-

house S.E. by S. J S., 14 cables. A black buoy, with a cage, is moored in 3
fathoms, southward of the eastern patch, and 3 cables westward of the eastern
edge of the shoal, with ! saki lighthouse bearing S. i W., distant 1 mile, and
Kusi saki N.W. j W., l-J mile.

laiiu Bank has from 2} to 4 fathoms on it. Its western extreme lies 5
cables E. ^ N. from Mozi saki, and thence it extends eastward nearly a mile,
dividing the channel southward of Middle Ground into two channels, neither
of which is to be preferred to the channel North of Middle Ground. Anchorage
in 5 fathoms may be found on the North side of the bank, well clear of the
tide-race.

Eanabuse, or Fisherman Rock, lies northward of Tano Bank, and 1 1 cables
N.E. by E. l E. from Mozi saki ; it is 120 yards long N. by W. and S. by E.,
has only 4 ft. on its southern end, 12 ft. on its northern end, and 5 fathoms
between at low water. A buoy, painted in black and white rings, carrying a
cage, is moored in 9 fathoms, half a cable South of the southern rock, with
Mozi saki bearing S.W. by W. ^ W., distant IJ mile.

The North Channel, northward of Middle Ground, is, with the exception of
the Kanabuse, clear of danger. The Middle Channel, between Middle Ground
and 'J'ano liank, carries 4 fathoms at low water springs. Hino yama, a con-
spicuous triple peak, 933 ft. high, opposite Mozi saki, kept bearing W. J N.
until the clump of trees on Take saki, the South point of the town, comes in
line with Mozi saki, leads through. This channel is well marked by buoys.
The South Channel, southward of Tano Bank, is the narrowest, although the
tides here are not so strong. It has a least depth of 5^ fathoms.

Mozi saki is the extreme of a promontory at the North end of Kiusiu, and
the strait is narrowed to 3 cables between this point and the eastern end
of the town. Immediately over it is a hill, 583 ft. high, with some tall trees
on its summit. A telegraph cable is hero laid across the strait, its position
being marked by buoys and beacons. The tide runs with great velocity.

Whit shed Bay, on the South side of Mozi saki, affords good anchorage in 5
to 7 fathoms, with Mozi saki and Observation Point in line, or n little open,
bearing North ; and Mozi village bearing East. Here the heavy ships of the
allied fleet, under Admiral Kuper, anchored after the reduction of the batteries
in September, 1864 ; but it is stated to be only suitable for vessels of moderate
draught. An extensive shoal of 3 to 4 fathoms fills up the whole of the southern
and outer part of the bay.

Directions. — Great caution is necessary in passing through Simonosoki Strait.
It is recommended that vessels should anchor, if the tide be not favourable on
arrival at either entrance, and they should pass through the strait as near the
time of slack water as possible.

If bound to Simonoseki from the westward, pass about 1 mile North of
Wilson Island, and steer E. by N. ^ N. for the North point of North Siro sima,
North Facijic, 5 I

■■'&

r*-l

794

THE JAPANESE ARCHIPELAGO.

!'!

which pass at half a mile ; then steer East, taking care not to bring the North
point of North Siro sima to the northward of West, till the centre of Ai-no
sima bears South, or llokureu lighthouso opens out S.E. J S., or at night until
the light is sighted, so as to clear the reefs off the North point of Ai-no sima,
marked by a buoy.

The Southern Channel is not recommended. It only shortens the distance 4
miles, and requires the large scale chart as a guide. To the S.E. of Shirasu
there is a depth of 2 to 2^ fathoms in it.

After passing the buoy North of Ai-no sima, steer to S.E., with the smooth
hill on Hiku sima in line with the North extreme of Kokuvcn, S.E. i S. ; or,
by night, when the light is sighted, bearing S.E. I S., steer for it. Hound
llokuren at about half a mile distant, and keep the lighthouse bearing between
N. i E. and N. by E. J E., and when Entrance Head is seen in line with the
peak, 1,261 ft. high, immediately S.W. from Clump Hill, 1,778 ft., bearing
S.E. f S., steer for it. These marks kept on will lead 4 cables westward of
Cape Sieikuts, and to abreast the Hiku Flat buoy ; whence, by keeping the
East extreme of Kanasaki sima in line, astern, with Cape Sizikuts, N.W. by
N. 1^ N., the vessel will pass between Hiku Flat and Hnmo Bank, and 1 J cable
westward of Manaita Rock. Continue on this leading mark a little pasi, the
beacon until the " Rocky Eminence," a peak, 1,193 ft. high, on the eastern
shore, is in line with Kibune Point, E. by N. | N., when alter course to
E. by S., and when Mozi saki is open of Kibune Point, N.E. } N., steer
N.E. J E. towards Yodsibi Rock beacon, which will lead past Narusi Rock to
abreast of Kibune Point.

From Kibune Poinl ji.2er towards Hino yaraa, bearing N.E. by N. J N., up
to abreast of the town, and when Kusi saki is seen open of Mozi saki, the
vessel's course may be altered to pass in mid-channel off Mozi saki.

After passing Mozi saki, to pass through the North Channel, steer to the
eastward, with that point in line with the clump of trees on Take saki, W. by
S. i S., astern, which will lead North of 'lano Rank, and 1 cable southward of
Fisherman Rock buoy, from abreast of which steei- towards the centre of
Manziu, N.E. by E. ^ E ; and when I saki lighthouse is seen in line with the
western buoy of Middle Ground, S.E. by S. J S., alter course to E. J N., with
Hino yama bearing W. | S., which will lead North of Middle Grovmd in not
loss than 8 fathoms. When the centre of Manziu bears N. by W. ]jj W., steer
S. by E. J E., which will lead eastward of Middle Ground in about 6 fathoms,
close to shoal water on the eastern side.

When I saki lighthouse bears N.W. | W., haul to the south-eastward into
the Inland Sea ; and at night keep the bright light in sight to avoid the shoal
gi'ound off Moto yama.

The Middle Channel is most generally used, as it is well buoyed. After
passing Mozi saki, steer, as before directed, to the eastward, with Mozi saki in
line with the clump of trees on Take saki, astern, W. by S, } S., and when

I ' I

.■ag«Sw5^5 EittSgai .B iaa a55

'■■ p ". ■.uuii'iatamtmM

SETO UCni— THE SUWO NADA.

795

iring the North
entre of Ai-no

r at night until
of Ai-no sima,

the distance 4
).£. of Shiiasu

ith the smooth

S.E. i S. ; or,

for it. Round

earing between

n line with the

78 ft., bearing

es westward of

>y keeping the

kuts, N.W. by

ik, and 1 J cable

little pask, the

on the eastern

alter course to

E. i N., steer

Narusi Rock to

by N. i N., up
Mozi saki, the
saki.

lel, steer to the
ike saki, W. by
le southward of
,s the centre of
n line with the
E. ^ N., with
Ground in not
W. i W., steer
bout 6 fathoms,

Li-eastward into
avoid the shoal

buoyed. After
th Mozi saki in
■ S., and when

abreast of Fisherman Bock buoy, steer towards the eastern Middle Ground
buoy, E. i N., until I saki lighthouse bears S.E. by S., when alter course to
S.E. i E. to abreast of the lighthouse; when bring it to bear N.W. f W.,
astern, and proceed into the Inland Sea.

For proceeding through Simonoseki Strait from the eastward the above
directions should be reversed.

The ensuing directions for the Seto Uchi are abbreviated from those drawn
up by Commanders C. Bullock and F. "W. Jarrad, R.N. They can only be
used in connection with the chart (Admiralty chart, No. 2875), which is com-
posed from the Japanese Government map before referred to, with subsequent
corrections by European officers. The intricate nature of the navigation cannot
here be verbally described.

The SUWO NADA, the western division of the Seto Uchi, is bounded on
the North by the provinces of Suwo and Nagato in Nipon, on the South by the
province of Buzen in Kiusiu, and on the East by Himc sima. It is about 40
miles in length East i.nd West, and the depth is not too great for anchorage.

Moto yama, the promontory about 7 miles eastward of Simonoseki Strnit,
has a long point terminating in a perpendicular bluff, with several clumps of
trees on it. A shoal bank extends 5J miles S.E. J S. from the point, its
southern limit marked by a red buoy bearing a cage, in 5J fathoms. Cape
Imagaica, 10} miles W.S.W. of Moto yama, terminates in a bluff point.

Hime sima is 3} miles long East and West, with a conspicuous sugar-loaf
peak 885 ft. high. Nisi ura, a bay at its N.W. end, affords good anchorage
in to 14 fathoms, sand, with easterly winds between E.N.E. and South.
Aliiiatne ura, on its S.W. side, is sheltered from northerly winds between
W.N.W. and N.E., with anchorage in 4J to 8 fathoms. The tides are strong
here, and the holding ground bad.

In the entrances of lunnage and Nisinaka Bays, on the coast S.W. of Himc
sima, there is anchorage in 6 to 6 fathoms, mud. JVaga saki, westward of
these bays, has a wooded rock off it, and a clump of trees on its perpendicular
extremity.

Iwami sima, in the eastern part of this sea, has a cone-shaped island east-
ward of it, which may be passed close on the S.W. Uwa sima, 3 miles to the
8.W., is small, with a cluster of rocks off the S.W. side.

Directions. — To pass through the Suwo Nada, from I saki, steer S.E. J- E.
10 miles, or until the promontory of Moto yama bears North. An E. by S. } S.
course may then be kept for 26 miles, which will lead 1 J mile North of Ilime
sima, and continuing 22 miles farther on the same course will lead 1 J mile
South of Ya sima, which may be rounded at a mile. Allowance must be made
for the tide.

In passing through the Inland Sea, as it is generally necessary to anchor at
night, so it is important that as many convenient anchorages ns possible should
be indicated along the route. Among tho,sc in the Suwo Nada are the follow*

796

THE JAPANESE ARCHIPELAGO.

ing: — In 5 to 8 fathoms for 10 miles south-eastward of the strait, or about the
southern edge of the Motoyama Shoals. In 5^ fathoms, muddy bottom, at
MHazidi, in about lot. 34° N., long. 131° 33' E., with the small conspicuous
island, Tnba sima (Saba sima ?), bearing S.W. ^ W. It has a great trade in
salt. On the N.W. side of Kasato Island, which is approached from the S.W.
passing S.E. of three islets ; and also at the port of Kaminoseki, opposite the
town which stands on the North side of tho East point of an island of the same
name, a large place of trade.

ITO NADA, the next arm of the Inland Sea, lies between the islands and
rocks off Nipon to the N.W. and the clearer western coast of Sikok, and is
about 46 miles in extent. To pass through it, from 1^ mile South of Ya sima,
steer E. by N. i N., 14 miles, and pass half a mile South of Ko Minasi ; then
shape a more northerly course, passing on either side of Yuri, and through tho
channel North of Gogo sima or Kosii.

Ya sima is about 500 or 600 ft. high at its North and South points, and low
in the middle. Anchorage may be obtained in 1 1 fathoms near the middle of
the western side. Ko Minasi sima, li mile South of Minasi, and 13 miles
E. by N. from Ya sima, is about 200 ft. high, and may be passed at a quarter
of a mile on the South. Minasi is 550 ft. high, lurt makes like two islands
from the N.E. or S.W., joined by a sandy beach ; it may be passed on the
South or on the North at a third of a mile. The eastern end is 410 ft. high.

Gogo sima, of very in-cgular outline, ond thickly wooded, is 4 miles long, and
lies close off Sikok, the channel between being deep and clear. The southern
part forms in a wooded peak 945 ft. high. Yura Bay, on the East side of the
island, affords sheltered anchorngc, but an isolated bank of 9 ft. lies nearly in
the middle. There is also good anchorage in the North bay and off the town
of Mitsuga llama, about E. by S. of the South point. Also in Hiyoriye Bay,
eastward of the North end, avoiding the rocks and shoals marked on the chart.

LIOHTHOUSE.— TsK/M sima, a small island 6 cables long, N.W. and S.E.,
lying off Yura Bay, has a round wooded summit 502 ft. high, and on tho
N.W. point is a lighthouse, 30 ft. high, showing ajixed bright light, elevated
186 ft., and visible 20 miles seaward between S. J W., through West and
North, and E. by N. i N. It is high water here, on full and change, at lO*" 10™ ;
springs rise 11 ft., neaps 7 J ft.

MISIKA NASA.— This portion of the Scto Uchi is 30 miles in extent.
East and West, about the same North and South, and is studded with numerous
groups of islands, islets, and rocks, of which as yet little is known. At its
North extreme is the large town of Hiro sima, on the shoro of Nipon. The
southern boundary of the Misima Nada is an extensive chain of islands stretch-
ing in on East and West direction. From Gogo sima, passing South of Nokona
Island, and West of Simonanba Point, a N.E. course will lead through the
Misima Nada up to Kndjitori Point and Cape lyo or Ozumi no hana, off both
which are rooks. North of the latter is an archipelago 30 miles in extent

SETO UCIII— THE BINGO NADA.

797

t, or about tho
Idy bottom, at
lU conspicuous
great trade in
from the S.W.
opposite the
ind of the same

he islands and
Sikok, and is

ith of Ya sima,
Minasi : then

nd through tho

points, and low
r the middle of
and 13 miles
ed at a quarter
ike two islands
passed on the
410 ft. high,
miles long, and
The southern
Jast side of the
t. lies nearly in
id off the town
Hiyoriye Bay,
d on the chart.
f.W. and S.E.,
h, and on the
light, elevated
ugh West and
ge, at IC 10"';

liles in extent,
with numerous
nown. At its
r Nipon. The
slands stretch-
uth of Nokoiia
i through the
hana, off both
I in extent.

rhe BINOO NADA is about 30 miles wide, and about 38 miles long, TI.N.E.
and S.S.W. It is comparatively clear, having only a chain of six islands
stretching across its centre in a N.W. and S.E. direction, and a few others
lying near Kurusima Strait. Tomo is a town on the North shore, in about
lat. 34^ 22J' N., long. 133=" 23J' E., famous for its mke distilleries. There
is a pier harbour here for small vessels, and anchorage in 5 fathoms in the
roadstead.

From the Misima Nada to the Bingo Nada two routes are indicated on the
chart: a northern route through the archipelago, by the Aogi seto and Mekari
scto, a channel circuitous, narrow, and intricate, amongst high islands, but
the tides are not so strong, and a southerly one, Kurusima Strait, much to be
preferred, as shorter by 6 miles, safer, and more open, passing South of and
avoiding the archipelago. A third passage, the Kuruma no scto, also through
the islands, is the shortest, but not good.

Kadjitori saki is a sharp promontory, terminating in a bluff 200 ft. high ;
on its southern side is Obe Halo ttra, in which there is excellent anchorage in
6 to 8 fiithoms. Ozunii no hana, or Cape lyo, 3 miles to N.E. by E. ^ E., is
the northern termination of a promontory of undulating hills, forming the
western boundary of Kurusima Strait. A low grassy island lies off it, and a
reef extends beyond this, having at its outer end a flat rock, 3 ft. above high
water.

Eumsima no seto, the southern channel to the Bingo Nada, is about I^
mile wide in its narrowest part, between the S.W. point of O sima and the
village of Obama on Sikok, but northward of this line it is much encumbered
by islets and rocks. Nezumi sima, lying off Ilashi hama Inlet, has a wooded
summit 356 ft. high ; Ko no se, or Perseus Rock, with 4 ft. on it at low water,
lies 1^ cable E. by N. from the N.E. point, and a shoal bank also extends 8^
cables to the N.W., with several patches of rocks on it. Shiroi hva, a white
rock 25 ft. high, lies near the middle of this bank, and at 7^ cables N.W. i W.
of it is a rocky patch of 3 J fathoms.

Uma sima, half a mile S.E. of NezumI sima, has two summits, the southern
290 ft. high ; foul ground extends a short distance around its shores. Nagato
sima, 2^ cables eastward of Uma sima, is a round wooded islet, steep-to on the
West side. Mushi sima consist of four wooded islets, lying about 2J cables
N.E. of Nngato sima. sima, a large island on the North side of Kurusima
no seto, bears evidence of volcanic origin in the remarkable features of its
innumerable peaks, deep valleys, and off-lying pinnacle rocks. Tsu sima, a
wooded island, with two summits, lies half a mile from the West shore of
O sima, and is steep-to, except on the S.E. side.

The southern coast of the approach to the strait may be known by two
curiously shaped hills, one with a double summit, on one of which is a clump
of trees, 1,202 ft. above high water ; the other hill >as a lower clump, 363 ft.
above high water, close to the shore, 2^- miles South of the large town of

VtH

798

THE JAPANESE AECHIPELAGO.

M I

^1 i n

Imahari, which is also very conspicuous. Obama village lies 2J miles N.W.
of Imabari, and 2} cables N. by E. J E. from the rocky point northward of
the village is Shiioi iwa, a white-topped rock, 13 ft. high. Amaze Rock, dry
at low water, lies 3^ cables N. by W. J W. from Shiroi iwa.

The following directions, with the aid of the large scale chart, will guide a
vessel safely through. After passing Kadjitori saki, steer to pass a quarter of
a mile North of the flat rock off Ozumi no hana, when the conspicuous tree,
in the first gap South of Kiro yama, on the South side of O sima, will be seen
in line with the North extreme of Mushi sima, bearing S.E. by E. i E. This
mark should be kept on until the West extreme of the N.E. point of Uashi
haraa is open East of Nczumi sima bearing S.W. \ S., which clears Perseus
Kock. A course may then be steered to pass West of Uma sima, borrowing
rather nearer to that island than the mainland, to avoid Amaze Hock. Uma
sima may be rounded at 2 cables, or, continuing the leading mark n little
farther on, a course may be steered to pass between Uma and Nagato sima,
keeping the latter island close on board. The other channels should not be
attempted.

Tides, — From Ozumi no hana the flood stream sets towards Nezumi sima
and Tsu sima, sweeping over Fcrseus Rock towards the North point of Uma
sima, and then takes the direction of the channels. The ebb runs with great
velocity from Imabari to the North, and sweeps directly through the channel
between Uma and Nagato sima, causing on the North side heavy whirls. The
velocity at springs is from 4 to knots.

It is high water, on full and change, at Hangata, a village midway between
Hashi hama and Ozumi no hana, at lO** 36*" ; springs range 11^ ft., neaps 5 ft.
Anchorage. — There is good anchorage off Hangata, North of Hiroso Rocks,
in 7 fathoms, 2 J cables from the shore. There is no really safe anchorage off
Obama or Imabari. Anchorage, though in a strong tideway, may be had with
off-shore winds, in from 11 to 13 fathoms, sand, good holding ground, with
Imabari pier bearing S.S.W., distant 2 J cables.

The Northern Route to the Bingo Nada passes through the Aogi seta and
Mekari seto, and the tides here are much weaker than in Kurusima Strait.
The entrance to Aogi seto may be readily distinguished by the conical hill
and white boulders of Ko-oge sima and the dark wooded Oge sima, care being
taken not to mistake the S.W. point of Okamura for Ko-ogc, as it also has
some white rocks at the base. From mid-channel between these islands, steer
to pass midway between Noka no hana and Niwatori jima, after which steer
midway between Osaki sima and Yoko sima until abreast the South point of
the latter, when close the Osaki shore, to avoid the foul ground West of
Yoko sima.

After passing Kodono sima, give its North shore a berth of 3J cables, and
pass West of the buoy marking the rock awash 2 or 3 cables from its North
end, after passing which steer to pass midway between Matsu sima and Kunu

8 2i miles N.W.
int northward of
Amaze liock, dry

mrt, will guide n
pass a quarter of
oospicuous tree,
imn, will be seen
)y E. i E. This
point of Haslii
1 clears Perseus
siina, borrowing
ze llock. Uma
ig mark n little
id Nagato sima,
8 should not be

ds Nezumi sima
1 point of Uma
runs with great
gh the channel
yy whirls. The

lidway between
h ft., neaps 5 ft.
f Hirose Rocks,
fe anchorage off
lay be had with
g ground, with

■^ogi seto and
irusinia Strait,
he conical hill
ma, care bein£r

as it also has
e islands, steer
T which steer
iouth point of
ound West of

J cables, and
om its North
ina and Kuno

8ET0 UCHI— THE BINGO NADA.

799

sima on the North, and 0-mi sima on the South ; and when East of this
channel, bring the round wooded summit of Osaki sima {not the clump) in line
with the North extreme of 0-mi sima, S.W. by W. J W. These marks in
lino, astern, lead between Admiral and Captain Banks, to raid-channel between
that island and the main land. The North shore should be kept about half a
mile off until abreast Kosaki sima, when that island may be rounded, borrow-
ing rather over to Matsu hama, the village S.E. of the large town of Miwara,
to avoid the sandbank between Sukune sima and the beacon East of it.

Between Iwashi sima and IIoso sima, keep in mid-channel and also between
Mukai sima and In-no sima, until Sasa jima, the small islet off Mukai sima,
bears N. by E., when the full of Ilachi gauno, the bluff East entrance of
Miwara, should be brought in line with the N.M point of Huso simn, bearing
N.W. by W. i W. ; this mark will lead out into the Bingo Noga, clear of all
dangers.

Tides. — The tidal streams appear to take the line of the channels, running
with a velocity of 2J to 4 knots, the flood to the eastward. It is high water
at Miwara, on full and change, at lO"" 37""; springs range 11 ft., neaps 5 ft.

Anchorage. — Vessels will find temporary anchorage in 9 to 13 fathoms, good
holding ground, with the South point of Okamura bearing East, and the South
end of the village of Mitarai N.W. There is good anchorage in 10 to 11
fathoms off the North end of Yoko sima, and excellent anchorage off Miwara
in 5 to 10 fathoms. At the southern entrance of the Mekari scto a mud-bank
extends between Ilyaku Kuan and Yuge sima, affording excellent anchorage,
except off the channel between Yuge sima and In-no sima.

Euruma no seto. — Follow the directions for Aogi seto until clearing the
channel between Kuno and 0-mi sima, when round the shore of the latter
at about 7^ cables, and steer S.E. to pass a quarter of a mile East of Iliotan
jima, and the same distance West of the S.W. point of Seto-da jima, bearing
in mind that the ebb sweeps strongly towards the beacon on the West side of
the channel. Keep about a quarter of a mile off the Seto-da jima shore until
the islet off the East point of Hakata sima, at the East entrance to the channel,
opens of the N.E. point, bearing S.E. i E., when steer to pass the latter point
at a quarter of a mile, and then for mid-channel between the islet off the East
point and Mu sima, taking care to keep the S.W. point of Seto-da jima open of
the N.E. point of Hakata sima, N.W. J W., to avoid the foul ground between
the East and N.E. points of that island.

Tides. — In the Kurunia no seto the flood stream sets to the S.E., and the ebb
to N.W., with a velocity of 2J to 3 knots.

Fronting the Kurusima no seto, in the Bingo Nada, are a range of islets en-
closing the Hi-uehi Nada. Kadji, the N.W. island, is a round double-topped
island, 264 ft. high, with a red cliff on the hill-side North of the summit.
Miojin, to the eastward, is 325 ft. high, and makes in three lumps, the highest
having a Jump of trees. Shi-shaka consists of two islands, the higher a grass*

800

THE JAPANESE ARCHIPELAGO.

illl'

h '~

I i

covered hill 501 ft. high. Hifci titna, fi miles south-irestward of Shi-shaka, U
a group of four islets, the eastern one surmounted by a oonspiouous obimaey<
shaped clump, 242 ft. above high water.

Farther eastward is another range of islands. Toyo, the N.W. island, has a
double peak on its East end, UOO and 250 ft. high. Ta^aikami, Oki, and Yeno,
form a conspicuous group. Takaikami has a single peak 800 ft. high ; Oki,
three peaks 530 ft. high ; and Yeno, one peak 200 ft. high. Mata sitna is
about 100 ft. high, and has a few conspicuous trees on it. Momo appears
barren, and has three small knobs on it, the highest of which is about 150 ft.
Ibuki is about 100 ft. high, and bluff at the East end.

A lino of islands also trends south-eastward across tlie eastern side of the
Bingo Nada from Tomo towards a projecting peninsula, Akenose misaki, on
the East side, 11^ miles distant. Hasiri has two peaks, the eastern 400 ft.
high. Udsi, to the S.S.E., has two peaks, 370 ft. high. Mutsu stma is 600 ft.
high, and cultivated; two rocks, covering at a quarter flood, lie nearly half a
mile westward of it. Nezumi sitna, 4 miles E. ^ S. from Mutsu, is about 1^
cable in extent, 63 ft. high, and of a brown colour, surrounded by rooks.

Directions. — To pass through the Bingo Nada from ICurusima Strait, give
the islets off the South end of sima a berth of about i. mile, and then haul
up W.N.W., passing northward of Kadji and between Takaikami and Oki sima,
whence the same course continued will lead between Mutsu sima and Akeno
misaki, the entrance of the channel from the Bingo Nadu to the Harima Nada.

Akeno misaki is a thickly wooded cape, rising gradually to Shiwoonde yuma,
a bare mountain, 1,130 ]'t. high, with a large clump of trees on its summit.
Eastward of this the shoies of Nipon and Sikok approach, the channel between
them being encumbered with numerous islands and dangers, the positions and
proportions of which will be best understood by referring to the large scale
chart. On the southern shore are several towns and large villages, the chief
being Tadoisu, Marugame, and Sakaide.

Light, — Near the central part of this channel is Yo sima, with Nahae sima,
about 1 cable in extent, off its S.E. point. On the summit of Nabac sima is a
granite lighthouse, 30 ft. high, showing a Jixed bright liijht, elevated 85 ft.,
and visible 12 miles between N. by E. \ E. and W. i N. Lat. 34° 23' 5" N.,
long. 133" 49' 10" E.

St Vincent Channel passes between the islands Sanagi, Hiro, and Siyako
on the North, and Nezumi, Takami, Usi, and the North edge of Conqueror
Bank on the South. In the centre of this channel, off Hiro sima, is Habitshi
iwa or Ten-feet Rock, 20 ft. high, and whitened. The channel southward of
Conqueror Bank is now very seldom used.

Directii ^s. — In sailing from the Bingo Nada into the Harima Nada, keep
as nearly as possible to the mid-channel track marked on the Admiralty chart.
The clump on Siyako Island in line with the South extreme of Habushi iwa,
E. by N. I N., leads between Sanajji and Nezumi ; and to clear the bank eX'

SETO UCHI— HARIMA NADA.

801

tending 3 miles eastward from the former, keep the North points of Usi siiiui
and Habushi iwa in line Puss on ( ther sido of the latter, and then bring lU
South extreme its own v, . 1th open of the North point of Tukami, astern, and
steer E. by N. ^ N., which will lead between Siyako and Usi sima, and north-
ward of Conqueror Bank. Thence steer to pass midway between Nabuo sima
lighthouse and Sanmen sima, where the channel is only 4^ cables wide. A
course thence E. by N. ^ N. will lead to a position midway between the con-
sjjicuous cone-shaped island OduUi, 549 ft. high, and the small island Kuuiichi,
southward of it.

From midway between Odutsi and Koduchi steer E. by N., taking; care to
keep th(! South point uf Tc sima a little open southward of Kuiiiwa, to pass
southward of Galatea Shoal and the bank extending 3^ miles westward of Oki
sima. When off the North point of Oki sima, alter course to E. by S. till the
South extreme of Knsiwu touches the North point of Oki sima, and then steer
S.E. by E. into the Ilarima Nada.

Anchorage.— On the South side of the western entrance to St. Vincent
Channel is Awa sima, having bays on its North, South, ond West sides, in
either of which anchorage may be obtained. Ino ura, on the South side of
Ilino sima, uffords convenient anchorage out of the strength of the tides, but
care is necessary, as the head of the bay shoals very suddenly. Anchorai^o
may also be obtained in either of the two bays between Ohara no hana and
No-o saki, to the S.W. of Koduchi. Inside the shoal off the city of Tuhunatsu
good anchorage may be had in 6 and 7 fathoms, sand and mud, about a mile
from the shore. 'J'he tides, however, are very strong, and great caution is
necessary in approaching this bay.

2'idet, — It is high water at Siyako, on full and change, at O*" 1 6"" ; springs
rise 9^ ft., neaps 4 ft., the flood setting to the westward.

HAEIMA NADA, the next division of the Inland >Sea, lies off the N.E. end
of Sikok, and is about 25 miles in diameter. It lies between Sozu sima on the
West and Awadji sima on the East, having about 20 fathoms water over its
deepest part ; the southern portion is clear of dangers, but the northern portion
is encumbered with numerous islands, rocks, and shoals

Sozu lima, a large island in the eastern part of the Ilarima Nada, is 12
miles long, 7 miles broad, and 2,686 ft. high, with a temple on the summit.
On its South side the high promontory of Djizo hana or Yosino, terminating
in a bluff 994 ft. high, stretches to the southward, forming a conspicuous land-
mark throughout the Ilarima Nada, and the narrow sea to the westward. On
its southern and eastern shores are several bays in which anchorage may be
found. Between Okado Point, the S.E. point, and Higiri saki, 2^ miles to
W. by N. i N., is Sakate Bay, into which a heavy sea sets with S.l'j. winds,
and the water is somewhat deep. Uchi no timi, a magnificent and spuiious
harbour entirely landlocked, the entrance to which is between Iligiri .siiki and
iiwlh Pacific. 6 K

■,<i;>

i"nr

803

THE JAPANESE ARCHIPELAGO.

i^\

I j,

iilii

Djizo hann, affords excellent anchorage for all claises of vessclo in ttom 7 to 8
fathoms, mud bottom, in any part of the harbour. On its ithores are several
large villages, the principal being Kuiakahe. Two dangerous reefs lie near the
East shore of the entrance.

Off the East side of Sozu sima are several isolated rocks. Ths outermost are
Naka no the, a dangerous sunken 3-ft. rocky patch, 1^ cable in extent, lying
nearly 2 J miles E. by N. | N. from Djiono simo, and Midzu no ko, 13 ft. high,
8J cables S.E. | S. from Nnka no she.

Hanam ura, on the Sikok shore, S.W. of Yosino bluff, is a fine harbour, but
has a 3i-fathoms shoal nearly in the middle of its entrnncc. A large town
stands at its head. On the promontory which forms its WeH dide, the high
vw^^edi Peak of Gotensan, ti sacred mountain, 1,260 ft. high, is a very con-
spicuous object. Large vessels will find good anchorage in 8 fathoi is, mud,
midway between t!'.e entrance points of Naga bama ura, the eastern arm of the
bay. Vessels drawing less than 16 ft. may anchor closer in, or may anchor in
Sido Bay, the western arm, in 21 ft. water. It is high water at ll** 16";
springs rise 6^ ft., neaps 2 ft.

Oda Bay, eastward of Ilanam ura, is 2 miles wide at its entrance, and about
the same in depth, the village of Oda lying at its head. Odu Point, the eastern
point, terminates in a steep cliff, and off it is a large high rock resembling a
man's hand. The poinl should not be approached within a distance of 2 cables.
Anchorage may be had in 7 to 9 fathoms at the head of the bay, ou the bank
extending to N.N.W.

Tsuda Bay, south-eastward of Oda Bay, is 1 j mile in width, and on its sandy
beach are the villages of Tsurua and Tsuda. It affords excellent sheltered
anchorage, except from winds between N.N.E. and E.S.E., which send in n
heavy sea. The best anchorage is in 5^ to 6 fathoms, 5 to G cables off the
sandy beach. It is high water, on full and change, at 1 1** 50"* ; springs rise
Gi ft., neaps 2 ft.

Taka sima, covered with brushwood, lies 3^ cables from the northern point
of Tsuda Bay, and at 2i cables N.E. of it is Oki no isso, a reef of rooks, 2
cables in length North and South, and uncovering at low water. Saruko aima,
a small islet joined to the coast by a shingle spit, lies W.N.W. of Taka sima,
and at 1 J cable N.E. of it is a reef on which is a remarkable pinnacle rock.

Ounobe yama, the eastern point of Tsuda Bay, has several rocks off it, and
between it and Ko Isso Point, 2 miles to the E.S.E., is Maaima Bay, with
good anchorage in 6 fathoms. The shore is formed of projecting cliffs, with
small sandy beaches between them. Ko Isso Point is the extremity of a sharp
wooded peak named Dino yama. Sand-banks extend northward of it, Maru-
kama Islets lying near the extremity. Ino sima, 5 cables to W.S.W., rises to
a sharp peak. At Ko Isso mura, a small port three-quarters of a mile south-
eastward of Ko Isso Point, the chain of hills surroimding Tsuda Bay ceases.
From hence to Matsu ura the coast is steep-to, forming an ev^snsive sandy beach.

SETO rOHI— HARIMA NADA.

803

from Y to 8

I are several

lie near the

lutermost are
extent, lying
, 13 ft. high,

harbour, but
L lurgo town
(le, the liigh

n very oon-
athoi 18, mud,
i-n arm of the
nay anchor in

ot 11" 13-";

ice, and about
it, the eastern
resembling a
cc of 2 cables.
, ou the bank

nd on its sandy
llcnt sheltered
hicli send in n
cables off the
' ; springs rise

northern point
ccf of rooks, 2
Saruko lima,
of Taka sima,
luacle rock,
cks off it, and
ima Bay, with
ing cliffs, with
mity of a sharp
•d of it, Maru-
^S.\V., rises to
f a mile south-
,da Bay ceases,
ve sandy beach.

Hatin Tira, a boy l mile wide, lying wpntwnrd of loji hnma no Imnn, nfford»
good anchorage, open between N.K. nnd N.W., in SJ to 6^ fathoms. A reef
extends half a cable N.E. of loji hama no hana Point, and hos a conspicuous
rock on it.

FUago aima, two high islets surrounded by rocks, lie half a mile N.N.H.
from loji hama no hunn, there being a deptli of 2^ fathoms in the passage be-
tween. Stotz sitna,, about 1 mile N.N.W. of loji hama no hana, is flanked on
its North and West sides by large, high rocks.

Hikieta Point, 2^ miles S.E. of Matsu urn, is formed by an isolated chain
of hills; its eastern side is bordered by several rocks, and to the N.W. of the
extreme point is a small rocky island joined to the coast by a spit of snnd.
The village of Hikieta is situated on the sandy beach on the South side of the
point. Matsu aima, IJ mile eastward of Hikieta Point, is high on its North
side, and bordered by rocks on its S.E. side, a rocky bank, 3 cables long, nlso
lying 2 cables W. i S. from the islet. Triple lalet, 3 cables E.N.E. of Matsu
simn, appears like three islets lying close together. Anchorage moy be ob-
tained in 7 If fathoms, mud, between Hikieta Point and the above-mentioned
rocky bank ; with the two islets in line, distant 3^ cables, and Hikieta Point
bearing W. i N.

To the S.E. of loji hama no hanr. is loj'i hama, a massive, isolated, and
thickly wooded hill, with a high sharp summit immediately over the coast,
which is bordered by cliffs, with off-lying rooks extending nearly 2 cables from
it. Between this hill nnd Hikieta Point is a cultivated valley at the head of a
small bay, in which thcro are salt-pans.

At about 7 miles westward of Hikieta Point is the entrance to Naruto
Passage ; the coast between has not been surveyed.

To the north-eastward of Sozu sima lies a large group of islands, of which
Nisi sima is the most important. Nisi sima is about 2 miles long, nnd on its
Nortli and South sides are bays where excellent anchorage moy be had. The
islond is uninhabited, and to the southward of it lies the Matsu sima group of
islets and shoals. Eastward of Nisi sima are three large islands, named Base,
Ye, and Tanga, with numerous islets and rocks. Westward of it is Inghe aima,
with rocks extending to the S.S.W.

//oM Bag, on the Nipon shore, northward of this group, in long. 134° 30' E.,
affords good anchorage in 3 to 4 fathoms, open to the southward. Morotsu
Bay, westward of Itsu Bay, is nearly IJ mile wide between its entrance points,
ond has a depth of 4.} to 3 J fathoms all over it. Four small islets lie off it.
Oo ura, West of Morotsu Bay, is a long narrow inlet, with a depth of 4 to Si
fathoms, where small vessels will find excellent anchorage. An islet lies off
the middle of the entrance, Sakoshi Bay, West of Oo ura, has a depth of 3J
fathoms, and vessels may onchor as convenient. It is high water at Oo ura, on
full and change, at 10** lO*" ; springs rise 5} ft., neaps 4^ ft.

Port Wuaimado, on the mainland of Nipon, about 6 miles North of tho

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804

THE JAPANESE AECIIIPELAGO.

I !'

J I'i

western point of Sozxi simn, is not altogether easy of access, as the channel is
little more than 2 cables wide, shoaling suddenly on both sides. It is sheltered
from the south-eastward by Mae sima. The entrance is between the western
edges of the shoals extending west'fard from Mae sima and Kuro sima and the
shore of the mainland. Anchorage may be taken up as convenient in 9 fathoms
at about 3 cables from the town wharves.

Port Okoyama, the entrance to which is 4J^ miles W.S.W. from Port Wusi-
mido, is in a narrow strait connecting the Ilarima Nada with a shallow sheet
of water, known as Amaki Bay. At 1 J mile from the entrance, on the North
shore, is the mouth of the Saidaidji gaiva, a river of some magnitude. //« gaiva,
the mouth of which is 3 miles farther on, is n much narrower stream, but has
a greater depth of water. Okoyama, containing about 200,000 inhabitants, is
an important commercial centre. In entering, steer with Kogushi Fort, on the
South side li mile within the entrance, bearing N.W., until Komo saki, the
South point, bears South, when haul up N.W. by N. J N., steering to pass
midway between the two forts ; and when the ismplc on the South end of
Take sima opens clear of the South shore, steer to the westward, keeping about
1 cable from the South shore. Anchorage may be taken xip in 6 to 9 fathoms.
It is high water, on full and change, at lO"* 15"; springs rise C ft., neaps 4^ ft.
The tidal streams are very strong.

AWADJI, the largest island of the Inland Sea, is 30 miles in length North
and South, and 14 miles across at its southern or broadest part, which is be-
tween the projecting promontories of Nipon and Sikok, at the eastern entrance
of this sea from Kii Channel, which it divides into two passages, the Strait of
Isumi on the East, and Naruto Passage on the West. Awadji is mountainous,
from 1,000 to 2,000 ft. high, but the hills taper away towards its North cape,
which is low and sandy, with batteries on it.

LIGHTHOUSE.— On Ye saki, about half a mile W. i 8. from the North
point of Awadji, is a granite lighthouse, 27 ft. high, showing a yfxerf i»»y/*<
light, elevated 158 ft., and visible 18 miles between S.W. by W. J W. and
East, through North.

Akashi Strait, between the North point of Awadji and the const of Nipon,
is about 2i miles wide, and commanded by forts on both shores. It is nearly
free of danger, and its shores are steep-to. The tides here are very rapid.

On the North shore of the strait is the town of Akashi, the residence of a
Daimio. From the West end of the town a bank of mud extends to the W.S. W.,
with a series of shoals on it, and terminated by Shika no se, a narrow rocky
bank of 6 to 12 ft., extending 2f miles W. by S. J S. and E. by N. i N. ; its
eastern extreme of 12 ft. lying 8 miles W. by S. i S. from the stone lantern
at Akashi. Near the middle of its southern edge a red buot/, bearing a cage,
is moored in 17 fathoms. Lying nearly parallel to Sliika no se, at 2^ miles
southward of it, is Murom no se, a bank of sand with 6| to 7 fathoms on it.

i i

SETO UCHI-OOSAKA.

801

Tskut/e no se, a slioal of 2 ft., lies 7 cables off Awadji, abotit 6 rnilesi to the.
S.W. of its North point.

Directions. — In passing through the Harima Nada, the track marked on tlie
chart should be closely adhered to. After rounding the high bluff." of Djii^o
hana, gradually niter the course to E.N.E. for Akashi Strait. Ye saki light-
house bearing E. by N. i N., in line with the summit of End Hill, leads be-
tween Murozu no se and Shika no se. After rounding the lighthouse, the coarse
may be shaped into the Isuml Nada.

Anchorage is found off Yet Bay, 12 miles S.W. of T', saki, in 9 filhoms,
one-third of a mile from the shore, and all along towards that point in 7 to 12
fathoms. There is also good anchorage in 9 fathoms, sand, on the North side
of the strait in Yamata ura, lying between Kara saki and Akashi. Yumati iso,
a 2-ft. rock, lies 3^ cables N.W. by \V. J W. from Maiko fort. Off Iwaya, on
the N.E. side of Awadji, there is excellent anchorage in 8 fathoms.

Tides. — It is high water in Akashi Strait, on full and change, at G** 27" ;
springs rise 3^ ft. The tidal streams are variable, causing heavy tide rips.

Ichi-no-hana yama, or End Hill, is a wooded hill, 820 ft. high, 5 miles east-
ward of Akashi. Taka iso, a 9-ft. rock, lies nearly a cable off shore, 5 J cables
westward of Shiwoya village. Bira iso has 6 ft. on it at low water, 4 cables
off shore, 3 J miles E. | N. from the North point of Awadji. A red buoy, bear-
ing a cage, is moored in 5 fathoms southward of it. Ye saki lighthouse kept
bearing West, till End Hill bears N.E., leads South of it.

The ISUMI NADA, or Gulf of Oosaka, at the N.E. extreme of the Inland
Sea, and 35 miles in extent N.E. and S.W., is bounded to the South by a pro-
naontory of Nipon, and to the West by the large mountainous island of Awadji.
Its shores are in general hij^li '.nd thickly wooded ; in some places, however
they are low and sandy. It ii singular in having neither an island nor a
danger in it. On t^^e East shore of Awadji the water is deep, with no con-
venient anchorages except in small bays close in. The coast of Nipon, on the
contrjiry, affords good anchorage along its whole extent, reefs only extending
1 or 2 cables off it.

OOSAKA, a city of gre<:t commercial importance, was opened as a treaty
port to foreign commerce January 1st, 1868. In 1882 it contained 587,998
inhabitants, and, unlike most Japanese cities, i.s houses arc of two stories. It
fctands on the N.E. shore of the sea, and on the left bank of the main stream
of the Yodo yatva. This river, which takes its rise in the great inland lake,
Biwa, after flowing on a south-westerly course for 30 miles, enters the Gulf of
Oosaka by several channels. At the lower or north-western corner of the city
the river divides into two branches — the ^yi katva, as the Yodo is here called,
continuing directly towards the sea ; the other branch, the Kishu yawa, takes
a southerly course, and discharges itself 2J miles lower down the gulf These
two branches are navigable by junks of moderate size, but the heavier clasaet
ore compelled to discharge their cargoes in the roadstead.

fffri

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Jl i i i MiJJW li J.. l l|iitilWlili l

806

THE JAPANESE ARCHIPELAGO.

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I Mi wl

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Oosnka is intersected by several canals, which arc mostly very shallow, and
Only navigable by the flat boats of the country. The castle of the Tycoon is
On the N.E. of the city, overlooking the river.

The Foreign CoBce««ion, named Ebisujima or Kawa guchi, occupies the angle
rormed by the Aji and Kishu branches ; its position is indicated by lofty trees.
The right of building is confined to this site, but the right of residence extends
over the oontig\K»us suburb westward. It is 2 J miles above Temposan, the fort
at the river's movrth, and 2 miles b«low the castle.

At Oosaka arc so»«»e iron and shijt building works, where both sailing vessels
and steamers are built and repaired. There is also a dry dock, capable of
taking vessels of 220 ft. long, and drawing 9 ft. water.

The River Aji, which enters the Isumi Nada between two jetties, is shallow,
but may be navigated by ships' boats as far as the castle ; it has a bar, which
at unusually low tides would be nearly dry : at exceptionally high tides, 7 to
ft. might be carried over. The channel is marked by large pik-s, the two
outer having triangular vanes to distinguish them ; the 8haUow««t part is just
outside these outer beacons, and the best passage over is at one-third the dis-
tance from the North beacon, so as to avoid a shoal extending .S.^V'. from the
other. When inside, the deep water is close along the groynes on the Soutli
side, which always show. There is generally 3 ft, more water in the lower part
of the river than on the bar.

Directions from unthin thf Bar — Keep the South bank of the river, which
will lead up in a nearly direct course to the Tycoon's Castle (above tlic first
bridge the river is seen to turn off sharp to the South : this is the Ki,shu branch),
keep close past the Concession, but in the same direction, for above this the
river has two distinct channels, separated by narrow islands and shallow sand-
banks, which can seldom be crossed.

B its may be obtained just above the fort, or at Ichiokashiuden on the left
bank, 2^ miles hi;^r up.

I/igllt. — The large fort of Tempostn, which stands on the South side of tlie
entrance, commands the entrance of tiie river ; it is a high turfed eartliw(/ik,
scarped with iv.usonry, and is a conspicuous landmark, the shores being very
low. On the parapet of its western salient is a white lighthouse, 35 ft. high,
from which wjifedbriyht light is exhibited, elevated 53 ft., and visible 12 miles.

Ooeaka Roads are open to the West and South. The depths are extremely
rogciar, diminishing gradually over a soft miid bottom; the holding ground is
60 good that it is considered a vessel could ride out any gale in safety. The
shores arc <> //where of clean sand (as are the river bars), but it constitutes a
fringe only, mud ixsing found at a cable from the low-water line. The best
anchor<ig« is Weat / the Tomposan lighthouse, ]| to 1| mile di$tj»nt, in 4 to
i fothoms.

Kishu gawa Riv«r, — A* 2 miles S.S.E. of Oosaka bar is the bar of the
Kishu, ot the North point of •B<fQnce of which river stands a small star fort

mmm

SETO UCHI— HIOGO AND KOBE.

bUi

lallow, and
Tycoon is

cs the angle

lofty trees.

nee extends

>aii, the fort

iling Tessels
capable of

, is siiallow",

bnr, which

tides, 7 to

-•^s, the two

part is just

»rd the dis-

V'. from the

n the South

c lower part

*iver, which
)ve the first
shu branch),
ove this the
lialiow snnd-

i on the left

I side of the
1 earthwork,
being very
, 35 ft. high,
•ble 12 miles,
re extremely
iig ground is
safety. The
constitutes a
. The best
ant, in 4 to

B bar of the
all star fort

at low-water mark, a mile from the shore. This bar has not been closely ex-
amined, but it is probably a little deeper than that of the Agi, as a larger class
uf junks ascend this branch to Oosaka. The channel is marked by beacons.

Sakai, — At 4i miles S. by E. from Temposan is the mouth of Siikai Eiver,
whifib enters the sea between two short moles extending from two green bat-
terieo ; it has no bar, and has 3 to 6 ft. at the entrance, opening into an arti-
ficial harbour, with a depth of 5 and 6 ft. in it.

Light. — On the end of the South pier is a white lighthouse, 37 ft. high,
showing a.Ji.ted yreen light, elevated 53 ft,, and visible 10 miles.

HIOGO and Kobe', a treaty port, 12 miles West of Oosaka, is a better and
more convenient anchorage than the roadstead of Oosaka, having slight pro-
tectiou from the South, and being thoroughly sheltered from the prevailing
westerly winds. Iliogo Buy has an even depth of IJ fathoms, with good hold-
ing ground, mud bottom. The foreign settlement is situated at the head of
the northern bay of Kobo. This bay is somewhat smaller than that of Hiogo,
but its shores are steep, with about the same depth of water, and, if less shel-
ter-.id in S.W. winds, it is less exposed to easterly winds. Several streams flow
into the bays. In 1883 the population amounted to 54,421, with 4(50 Europeans
and Americans, chiefly missionaries, and 754 Chinese. During autumn and
winter smallpox is very prevalent here.

British subjects are free to go wherever they please within 21 nule3 of
Iliogo in any direction, that ofMiako (Kioto) excepted. The crews of vessels
resorting to Iliogo must not cross the liiver Ena gawa, which flows into tho
bay between Hiogo and Oosaka.

An iron pier, in connection with the railway* which runs to Oosaka ond
Kioto, allows of vessels going alongside to load and unload. A Japanese Com-
pany has lately erected anotlier iron pier, 450 ft. long, near the western camber,
extending into 23 ft. at low water, and furnished with steam 'iranes. In con-
nection with this pier is a series of brick warehouses. The exports are tea,
raw silk, copper, wax, camphor, porcelain, &c., principally to America; tho
principal imports are cotton aatd woollen goods, metals, and kerosine oil. lu
1883, 177 foreign vessels, with a total tonnage of 207,713, entered the port, of
which 124, with a tonnage of 159,2!}8, were British. In the same year the
value of foreign imports at Iliogo and Oosaka amotmted to £1, 735,352, and
the exports to £1,348,000.

• The railway Iwtweeu Kobe and Ooaaka (Agi knwa), 21J inilos loin,', wua opened in
Mny, 1874. From OoBiika it iu .untiuuod ivi a N.E. dirooiion, past Kioto tho anciont
capital, to OUu at the South ond of Biw.i Iiake, a distuuoo of nearly 37 iniloa. Thcnco a
line of BteamerH crosses tho lake to Nagahama, 40 milo.'j disuwit, whence another lino of
railway extends to Tsuruga, cnthoK.W. coaat, 20 miles distant. Another lino i.s Ijting con-
structed north-eastward of Xaguhama. It is proposed to extend this railway, bo that all
the chief porta of \ipou shall be in commanioaiion, includir.g Tsuruga and Niegata on tho
Wett coaat, and .biti^^oya, ttt the head of Owari Bay, and Yokohama on 4bo iJoutU coaMt.

'&■'

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808

THE JAPANESE AECHIPELAGO.

. ■••■ !

*■?!

:; .5

Oa the West shore of the bay is a ])atent slip, 300 ft. long, suitable for
vessels of 800 tons, and another is being constructed to take vessels of 1 ,000
or 1,500 tons at all times of tide. There are facilities here for building and
repairing both sailing and steam vessels.

Supplies of all descriptions may be procured at Kobu in abundance at toler-
ably cheap rates. Government coal is stored here in charge of a contractor,
who also supplies fresh meat, vegetables, and water. The fresh water obtained
at Kobo is good ; that of Hiogo is indifferent. Large timber, chiefly cedar
(Simgi), is also procurable for shipbuilding purposes.

Time Siynul. — A gun is fired at noon, Kobe mean time, Sundays and general
holidays excepted, and a ball is dropped at the same time on a flagstaff on the
bund.

LIGHTS. — On Wada no misahi, the S.W. point of Hiogo Bay, is a white
lighthouse, 46 ft. high, showing u fixed »W light, elevated 52 ft., and visible 12
miles seaward between N.W. by N. % N. and W.S.W.

On the eastern pier head at Kobe a fixed ijyeen light, elevated 42 ft., and
visible 6 miles, is shown from a staff, and a smaller red light from a staff on
the western pier head.

Direciions. — If entering Hiogo at night from the West, keep Awadjt Island
light bearing West until the light on Wadanomisaki bears North, when steer
N.N.E. for the anchornge; and when the shipping lights arc seen bearing
N.N.W. or N.W,, steer for them, and anchor as convenient. From the south-
ward, after pussing Isumi Strait, steer N.E. by N. J N. for Wada no raisaki
light, and when Awadji light opens out, haul to the eastward until Wada no
raisaki light bears Noith, when proceed as before mentioned for the anchorage^
It must be borne in mind that the ebb tide sets to the westward towards Akashi
Strait, and the flood to the eastward towards Oosaka, 2 knots an hour at springs,
increasing in strength as Akashi Strait is approached.

'J"ho coast as fur as l\-ee Point, 9 miles eastward of Kobe, is safe of approach,
the shore being steep into 4 fathoms, except the bay directly East of Kobe,
where a sand-bauk of less than 2 fathoms extends half a mile off .shore.

Tidos. — It is high water at Hiogo, on full and change, at 7'' lo" ; springs
rise 6 ft., neaps 4 ft., neap laugo 2^ ft. The range of any day seldom exceeds
b ft. at s])rings, or 13 inches at neaps. Th'; iiood runs to the eastward.

At Oosaka Concession the establishment i.v **'' 1 7™ ; springs rise 30 inches,
neaps 6 inches. The flood stream does not reach the Concession.

ISUMI STRAIT, between the S.E. point of Awadji and Ninon, is divided
into three channels by the islands Tomangai and Diyi. I'omanyai, the western
island, is wooded, with the exception of its West hill, cleared apparently for
military purposes ; there is .^ fort close to the North of the S.W. point across
a small ravine, and facing the West. Diyi, is wooded, but lower. The West
or main chamicl is 2 miles wide, but contracted by a sand-bank, which extends
half a mile off the large fort of Yxtra, and by reefs atreiching 3 rjables off the

;, suitable for

sscls of 1,000

building and

lance at toler-
' a contractor,
water obtained
, chiefly cedar

lya and general
flagstaff on tbe

Jay, is a white
..and visible 12

ted 42 ft, and
from a staff on

J Awadji Island
Drth, when steer
10 seen bearing
From the south-
Wada no raisaki

until Wada no
V the anchorage^

towards Akashi
I hour at springs,

safe of approach,
y East of Kobe,
off shore.

^^ 15™ ; springs
y seldom exceeds

eastward,
;8 rise 30 inches,
sion.

Sipon, is divided
m(/ai, the western
ed apparently for
3.W. point across
lower. The West
uk, which extends
ig 3 uables off the

KII CHANNEL— NARUTO PASSAGE.

809

S.W. part of Tomnngai. The centre passage is only 1 cable wide, and full of
rocks. The eastern channel, called Dzinozetti, is a quarter of a mile wide, and
said to be clear and sofe, between the reefs which extend IJ cable off both
shore and island.

LIOHTHOUSE. — On the western extreme of Tomangai is a granite light-
house, 30 ft. high, showing a.Jixed bright light, elevated 208 ft., and visible 19
railcs between S. J E. and N.E. by E., through South and West.

Yura is a town in a curiously sheltered harbour on the S.E. side of Awadji,
on the West side 01 Isumi Strait. A low .'and, 1^ mile in length, of sand
and shingle covered wiib scrub, with a bluff hill, 126 ft. high, on its North
point, and a large granite Icvt on its South, lies like a breakwater fronting a
bay, and forms the harbour, which has narrow entrances North and South. A
little North of the fort, where tho island is stony, it covers at high water, but
a boat can scarcely pass over it. A vessel drawing 1 G ft. could enter by the
North channel at high water springs, and lie secure in smooth water for repair.

Anchorage may also be obtained in 2 to 5 fathoms outside the island on the
sand-bank off it, with the outer extreme of the bluff N.W., or of the fort S.S. W.,
but it is very steep on the edge, and the holding ground is probably not good.
Springs rise 6 J ft.

Kata is a town on the eastern side of Isumi Strait, on the South side of a
bay North of Takura saki, where there is anchorage in 5 to 8 fathoms. There
is a fine landing-pier here 200 yards in length. Off Takura saki, and in Kata
Bay as far as Diyi Island, reefs, covering at high water, extend about 3 cables
off the shore.

It is high water at Yura and Kata, on full and change, at 0'' 5™ ; springs rise
C^ ft., neaps 4J ft.

The, South Coast of Awadji sinia is clear of danger ^vithin a mile, and If mile
off it lies Noma siina, formed of some very flat-topped hills from 100 to 200 ft.
high, bordered with low cliffs. It has reefs a cable off its South point, and
there is a bay and village on its West side.

EII CHANNEL, between Sikok and Nipon, is 80 miles across at its en-
trance from the Pacific, but the width decreases tc 15 miles at 30 or 40 miles
within, which width it pi-eserves for 20 miles farther, or up to Awadji. The
fairway from Kii Channel into the Seto Uthl is by Isumi Strait, but there is a
more direct route, by taking whicn. (ii not bound to Oosaka or Hiogo) a .saving
of 35 miles is effected, viz., Naruto Passage, West of Awadji, but great care is
necessary in using it.

NARUTO PASSAGE.— The Naruto (literally, gate of the sea which makes
a great roaring) was examined by Commander Charles Bullock, in H.M.S. Dove,
in 1861. It had previously been considered to be a tvnirlpool, and it is not
without cause that this dangerous character has been attributed to it, for Junks
have foundered in its turbulent waves, yr beea oashed to pieces on its i ocw by
North Pacific, 5 x.

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810

THE JAPANESE ARCHIPELAGO.

the impetuosity of the current. This channel, lying between To'saJ:i, the pro-
jecting S.W. promontory of Awadji, and tiie N.K. extreme of O^e sima, called
Maffo saki, is only 7^ cables wide from point to point ; and is further narrowed
to 2^ cables by an extensive reef of rocks off To saki, and some reefs and islets
off Mago saki. Mago saki and To saki are low bluffs; Tohi sima and Iladaka
sima rocky islets covered with trees. Nahase, lying off To saki, is a low rock,
which never covers, and off which and Haduka sima stretch extensive reefs
bounding the passage, marked during the strength of the tide by seething
breakers, which break in several fathoms. N. by W. and S. by E. are the
courses recommended when steering through with the tide, keeping midway
between the breakers, or between Nakase and Iladaka sima.

Through this narrow passage the tide runs, or rather falls, with a velocity of
10 to 11 knots, slacking to 7 or 8 knots within 1 or 1 J hour before or after the
change of stream, which occurs every six hours, there being no slack water.
The junks choose the early and latter parts of the tide, when fair, to pass, but
never attempt it when the wind is so strong as to require reduced canvas, for
then the sea is so great that vessels are unmanageable ; however, there would
be no difficulty to steam-vessels taking the passage in fair weather, at any time
with a favourable tide, or within an hour of the change of stream before the
contrary tide has made strong, as the passage is distinctly marked ; br.i in bad
weather it breaks right across, and the passage is scarcely discernible'. The roar
of the breakers can be heard several miles on a calm night.*

Tides. — It is high water at Fuk ura, on the eastern side of the passage, on
full and change, at 6*" 17"" ; springs rise 7 ft., neaps (probably) 4^ ft. The north-
western stream makes at 2 J hours before high water at Fuk ura, changing every
six hours nearly. North of the N.ir uto Passage the tides are anomalous.

Anchorctijc. — If wishing to await slack water or change of stream, excellent
anchorage may be found on i,he Awadji shore, southward of Maru yama, the
N.E. point of entrance of the passage, with Ben-ten sima, the islet close off it,
bearing North, distant 2}j cables, in 6 to 8 fathoms, sand. Fuk ura, eastward
of To saki, is a fine bay, with excellent anchorage in 7 fathoms, mud, just
within the entrance. Large vessels can also anchor in 11 to 13 fathoms off
the entrance to /// ura or Minotoye Bay, 4 miles westward of the passage ;
email vessels can go farther in.

On the West side of Naruto Passage are Oge and Siviada Islands, with a

• Capt. II. C. St. John. II.M.S. Si/lvia, wlio had sovoral timos used this chunnel, once
o1«tTvoJ 11 Uiitish niaii -of-wiir pass tlirough it, and iii'lcrwards eniiuirt/d of her captain
wliy ho hud douo so — "Because it was rucorainondod on the chart; but you will never
enOch mo there again. Ah I noarcd it I could see nothing ]mi rocks, breakers, and foam ;
■wished myself out of it, and put the helm hard down ; but luthough the ship was going 12
knots through the water, she would not answer the helm a bit. In another moment I waj
through, and being whirled about iiD the eddies ia a most horrible mttoner. In fact, ttw
•hip was out of all command,"

■i&m

KII CHANNEL-TAKURA SAKI.

lii, the pro-
sitna, oallcd
er narrowed
fs and islets
tnd Iladaha

a low rock,
tensive reefs
by seething

E. are the
)iug midway

a velocity of
e or after the

slack water.
', to pass, but
d canvas, foi'

there wou'd
r, at any time
m befo'e the
d ; br.i in bad
iblj. The roar

he passage, on
ft. Thenorth-
:hanging every
omaloua.
cam, excellent
aru yama, the
(let close off it,

Mm, eastward
ims, mud, just

13 fathoms off
f the passage ;

'slands, with a

lis chiinnel, once
:d of ber captain
t you will never
iikers, and foam ;
ship was going 12
ler inoiiicDt I was
)er. la fact, ttM

narrow passage, only used by junks, between them and the Sikok shore. Be-
tween the islands is the Uchi umi, a large expanse of deep water, only accessi-
ble to boats.

Shiwo saki, the S.W. point of Awadji, slopes from a wooded hill 516 ft.
high, and terminates in a conical grass mound 107 ft. high. From it shoal
water, having 5 fathoms on the outer edge, stretches half a mile West, and a
quarter of a mile South. 0-iso, a projecting sandy point on the opposite side,
slopes down from a hill 290 ft. high, ending in a bare conical mound. Rocks,
awash, extend 3 cables East. South of this point the coast of Sikok is flat
and sandy, fronting a large plain, on the southern edge of which stands the
town of To/<u sima.

I sima lies in Kii Channel, at its narrowest part, at 25 miles S. by E. J E,
from Naruto Passage. It is small, and its southern peak is visible 30 miles.
It may be approached to within a mile, except on the West. The channel to
the West, between it and Kamoda saki, the East point oi' Sikok, is 3 miles
broad, but extending right across it arr s>evcral dcttiehcd groups of rocks, some
of them above water, and amongst them (according to the fishermen who acted
ns pilots) are sunken rocks, over which not more than 24 ft. can be carried in
any of the channels, excepting the westernmost, which they stated to be clear
of danger and navigable. These channels should not be attempted.

In 1873, a rock, 10 ft. high, was reported by Capt, Hummel, S.S. Alexander ^
at 24 miles S.AV. J S. of I sima.

Wadasima Harbour.— On the West coast of Kii Channel, 14 miles N.W.
of I sima, in lat. 34° 0' N., is n bay affording excellent anchorage, especially
for smaller classes of vessels, in 5 fathoms, sand, completely lard'ockcd; and
sufficient shelter for vessels of heavy draught from all dangerous winds in 7
fathoms. Its only known danger is Johnston lioch, which uncovers 2 ft. at
low water, and liesN. by E, J E., IJ mile, from Wadasima, the lovf East point
of entrance.

TAKURA SAEI, the eastern point of entrance of Isumi Strait, is a wooded
headland, the extremity of a mountainous promontory, skirted with reefs ex-
tending 2 or 3 cables West and South of it. The coast South of it is low and
wooded for 5 miles, as far as Zoga saki, a rocky point with four small islands
off it which are steep-to.

The eastern coast of Kii Channel trends irregularly to the southward. It was
surveyed by Commander Charles Bullock, U.N., in the Dove.

Hachken gawa is a small river running through a plain 5 miles S.E. of Kata.
Waka yama, a small isolated wooded hill, is on its left bank, 1)^ mile from the
entrance ; on its summit stands the residence of the Prince of Ksiou, conspicuous
from the sea. There is only 3 ft. water on the bar. There are forts on both
sides of the river.

South of Zoga saki is a bay 4 miles deep, and 3 miles across its entrance, ia
which anchorage may be found in 4 to 10 fathoms.

'f. • i ■

p t
f'l

, :i>

i-.i

812

THE JAPANESE AIICIIIPELAGO.

Osaki Bay is 1 i mile deep, nnd open to the W.N.W. The villngo of Osalii
stands on the shore of ii narrow inlet on its North side, where small vessels can
find good shelter in 5 to 2 fathoms, which they can also ohtain in Smolz lira,
the innermost bay on the South side. The only danger is a rocky 1 -fathom
patch 1 cable S.E. of the North entrance head. AVnter and small supplies can
be readily obtained hei'e.

Oktno shna, W. by S. J S. 2 miles from the entrance of Osaki, has a round
hill 271 ft. high. DJitio shna, 1 mile East of it, is 400 ft. high, has high cliffs
towards the sea, and is wooded ; it may not be passed inside. A rock, awash,
lies about 2 cables South of it.

Miya saki, 220 ft. high, and 2 miles South of Okino sima, is an abrupt
wooded peninsula at the extremity of a range of small hills. On its North
side the Arita, n small stream, disembogues, and is navigable by small junks
for a short distance up. Miya saki may be passed at 3 cables.

Tskahara Bay is 5 miles deep and G miles across between Miya saki and
Sirasai saki, its North and South points of entrance. At its head is the bay of
Htrowatali, with anchorage in 7 to 8 fathoms, well sheltered from all winds
except W. by S. A pier at the South end of the sandy beach at its head, and
off a small town, px'otects small craft in a shallow inner harbour.

Kura sima and Taka sima lie off the southern shore of Tskahara Bay. Both
these islands may be passed at 2 cables, except the South point of Taka sima,
off which, at nearly that distance, there is a rock awash. The Karanio group
of small islands, with reefs about their North sides, lie N.N.E. of Taka sima
ond West of Hirowatali Bay, with a cluster of rocks E.N.E. of them half-way
to the shore.

Unless desiring anchorage or working to windward against tide, Tskahara
Bay should not be entered within a line joining its points, as there are two
dangerous rocks lying in the centre and northern parts of the boy. Golden
ilocky so named from the large amount of property lost there, is a very small
patch, nearly awash at low water, and so steep that the lead gives but little
warning. It lies about 2^ miles S. by E. J E. of Miya saki. The Sung-ami,
three-quarters of a mile North of the West point of Karanio, is a sunken rock
with 6 ft. over it, and equally steep-to. It lies 1 J mile N. by E. of Taka sima,
and S.E. ^ E., 2^ miles, from the point S.E. of Miya saki.

Sirasai saki, or White Rock Point, derives its name from the large masses
of quartz in its cliffs, and which, with the white pinnacle rock 200 ft. high, 4
cables E.S.E. of it, show very distinctly from the South. The point is not high,
nnd a large round rock lies 1 cable N.W. of it. Turtle were seen here. Fisher-
man Reef, a small narrow rock 4 ft. above high water and steep-to on the out-
side, lies 4 cables West of Sirasai saki. Oobiki ura is a bay between Sirasai
saki and Yura no uchi, where a vessel might anchor for the night with the wind
off shore, in 6 fathoms.

Yura no uohi is a harbour 4 to 7 cablrs in breadth, and 2 miles deep, and

> \\..

KII CHANNEL -T AN ABF; HAY.

813

ngc of Osalii
ill vessels can
I Smotz ura,
jky 1 -fathom
1 supplies can

hns a round
las high cliffs
. rock, awash,

is nn abrupt
On its North
y small junks

iliya saki and
1 is the bay of
i-om all winds
t its head, and

ara Bay. Both
of Taka sima,
Karamo group
, of Taka sima
them half-way

tide, Tskahara
there are two
bay. Golden

9 a very small
ives but little

The Sung-ami,

\ a sunken rock
of Taka sima,

18 large masses
200 ft. high, 4
int is not high,
n here. Fisher-
)-to on the out-
)etween Sirasai
t with the wind

niles deep, and

being sheltered by the sharp peaked island AU sima and the extensive reefs
off the South point of entrance, always above water, is only open between
W. by S. and S.W. by W. Winds from these directions cause some swell in-
side in a gale, but it is nevertheless a secure anchorngc, safe during heavy
weather or a typhoon. The smooth round hill, Kasanc yama, on its North
side, 860 ft. high and surmounted by a clump of trees, is conspicuous, and well
marks its position. To enter, pass North or South of Ali sima. It is high water,
on full and change, at 6'' ; springs rise 5J ft.

HINO MISAKI, being nt the turn of the coast, is the most prominent cape
in Kii Channel. Its terminal hill, llino yama, is smooth sloped, 675 ft. high,
and the islet off it may be passed at 2 cables. It is steep-to, but the tide
sweeping out of the bay South of it causes an appearance of broken water,
especially with a North wind. From thence the coast runs south-eastward for
19 miles to Tanabe.

At 2} miles E.N.E. of IHno yama, on the East of the range extending from
it, is a high flat-topped saddle of nearly 1,000 ft. elevation, and very con-
spicuous from the S.E. Eastward of this is a long sandy beach, along which
anchorage may be obtained in 4 to 9 fathoms at about half a mile off shore.

The only danger in approaching the anchorage near the mouth of the small
river Ilidaka kawa, is a large flat reef, named Nosima, the inner part of which
is 15 ft. above high water. It extends two- thirds of a mile off the coast, a mile
South of the river's mouth.

Ilibe saki, — The round smooth hill, Kirime yama, rises over this prominent
point. The coast to the S.E. of the range has several outlying reefs, the largest
of which extends 4 cables off Arari Point in detached parts, and its extremity
is S.W. by W. ^ W., 3 J miles, from Ilibe saki. Eastward of Arari Point is a
bay affording good anchorage in 5 to 8 fathoms.

North of Arari Point is a round hill, on the summit of which are three spikc-
shapcd monuments ; and 3 and 4 miles inland, North and N.E. of this, are two
large high clum])S which are very conspicuous from the olBng.

TANABE' BAY is formed in a bight of the coast, 22 miles S.W. of IHno
misaki, its outer parts exposed only to West and N.W. When approaching
from the south-eastward, Itsiye misaki, the most projecting point of the coast,
will first be made, and being very similar to Cape Tanabe, the bay between
them, in thick weather, may be mistaken for that of Tanabe. Itsiye misaki
is a sloping point with a low terminating cliff, but the hills over it arc much
higher than those of Cape Tanabe, and rise to a sharp peak, the outer of a con-
tinuous high range. The summit of Cape Tanahi, which has a single con-
spicuous tree on it, is only 539 ft. high, and falls abruptly inland.

Sato saki, North of the cape, is very dangerous, a reef with two islets on it
extending North half a mile from the point, and Isaki lieef, of flat rocks above
water, lying that distance West of it. There are sunken reefs and shoal water

'■->.

■fl

,'-■.■

■.;#:•

■I I'lv

if
it

i-1

;■■■'■:,■

in.

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111

II!!

iiii

,1.

814

THE JAPANESE ARCHIPELAGO.

between the latter reef nnd the point, nnd off both reefs the shoal wntcr extends
2 or 3 cables beyond the outer visible dangers.

In 1885 a sunken 6-ft. rock, named S/iakuahi or Ladle, was reported to lie
8J cables W. f S. from the outer islet northward of Sato saki, with Capo
Tanabo bearing S. by E. | E. Foul ground extends about li cable S.S.W. of
this rock, and a sunken 9-ft. rock lies about 150 yards N.E. by E. of it.

In the north-western part of entrance of Tanabo Bay are Saiio and North
Bay Reefs, 4 cables apart, with a deep-water channel between them. Thu.<c
reefs arc low and quite flat. At 2 cables S.E. and North of Saito, the southern
of them, are sunken rocks, and off North Bay lleef is a small rock like a boulder.
In bad weather, with the wind in, all the known dangers would break.

The best anchorage is in the south-eastern arm of the bay. South of Anchor-
age Island. This island may be recognised by the dark trees dotted over it,
and a tree islet West of it from which a long uncovered reef extends. The end
of this reef may be passed at a cable ; thun steer to pass the same distance off
the N.E. point of Anchorage Island, between it and the sunken rocks of Passage
lleef in 6 to 10 fathoms, irregular bottom. Having passed along the East side
of the island, stand in S.W. ^ S., anchoring in 10 to 8 fathoms, in a secure and
thoroughly sheltered position.

The north-eastern part of Tanabe Bay has many shoals. In the centre of the
bay is the Binzli, an extensive reef with several rocks on it, dry and awash at
low water. On the North shore a small river discharges itself, running close
under the white loop-holed wall surrounding a residence of the Daimio, the
Imperial Prince of Ksiou. The village of Tanabe stands on the shore of the
sandy bay to the westward of the river, and to the North is a mountain range,
the highest part of which rises to the height of 2,650 ft., the ridge curving
round to the range which terminates in Itsiye misaki.

Tanabe has proved at times a convenient anchorage, the usual position for
anchoring being South of the Daimio's residence, but better shelter in westerly
winds would be found N.E. of Binzli Reef. To anchor, stand in fpr the green
earthwork East of the white wall of the Daimio's residence, bearing E.N.E.,
till Ebisima shuts in with the islet off Maru-yama Point ; then keep East, and
anchor in 6 to 4 fathoms. The low rock of Binzli always shows.

The coast, from Itsiye misaki to Siwo misaki, a distance of 20 miles, is rocky,
and indented by many small bays, the hills rising abruptly to a considerable
height. The principal places in which small junks seek shelter are Husami
anchorage and Hikl yaioa.

SIWO MISAKI, the extreme South point of Nipon, is the S.W. extremity
of a promontory of table land which forms the western shore of 06 sima Har-
bour. The shores are rocky, and skirted with many small islets and rocks,
Bottle Rock lying 2^ cables to the South, with foul ground 1^ cable southward
of it. There is a great race off Siwo misaki, immediately North of which the
tides arc felt, though the Japan Stream washes the South shore of this and of

NIPON ISLAND-00 SIMA HARnOUR.

815

tor extends

rted to lie
■with Capo
! S.S.W. of
)f it.

and North
;m. These
je southern
e a boukler.
3ak.

of Anchor-
ted over it,
Is. The end
listance oif
J of Passage
ic East side
I secure and

cntrc of the
id awash at
nning close
Daimio, the
hore of the
ntain range,
Jge curving

position for
r in westerly
pr the green
ing E.N.E.,
3p East, and

les, is rocky,

considerable

are b'ttsami

V. extremity
tij sima liar*
9 and rocks,
ie southward
)f which the
f this and of

Ou sima. After a south-easterly gale the sea com?s in round this point in
immense rollers, such as arc rarely seen ou any coast.

LIOHTHOTJSE.— On the summit of Siwo misaki is a white lighthouse, 75
feet high, showing ajixed briyht light, elevated 163 ft., an'l visible 20 miles
seaward between E. ^ 8. and N.W.

Fuliu tna, a bight North of Siwo misaki, offers protection to vessels from
easterly winds, the anchorage being in 7 to 10 fathoms, 4 cables North of a
conical yellow cliff.

Directions. — In pas^sing southward through Kii Channel, it is recommended
to steer always for ilino misaki. Tlie course from Isunii Strait is South, 25
miles, and from Naruto Passage S.H. by S., 30 miles, which latter course, con-
tinued for 25 miles farther, passes Itsiyo misaki at about 3 miles, from which a
S.E. by E. I E. course for 21 miles leads abreast of Siwo misaki.

South-East Coast of Nipon, — From Siwo misaki the coast trends to the
eastward for 71 miles as far as Cape Sinui, and is bold and mountainous. It is
much indented by bays and inlets, affording anchorage, but there are numerous
off-lying islets and rocks. Only the chief features will bo briefly described
here; the China Pilot and the charts afford fuller letails.

00 SIUA HAKBOUB, a safe and convenient anchorage, is formed between
Oi) sima and the East side of Siwo misaki promontory, which is a curious clump
of land, 300 ft. high, connected to the mainland by a low isthmus. Its vicinity
was surveyed by Commander J. Ward, Il.N., II. M.S. Aclceon, in 1801. The
harbour has two anchorages : one in the bay on the S.W. side of Oo sima,
completely sheltered, but the water rather deep ; the other in 1 to 9 fathoms,
nmddy bottom and good holding ground, between the villages Kusimoto and
Hasingui on the mainland, in the northern part of the harbour.

Hasinyui or Ilasikiwi Anchoraye, of 4 to G fathoms, is well sheltered, except
to the N.E., where it is open from a small arc; it has also some protection
from the remarkable chain of rocks, from 20 to 75 ft. high, extending in a
southerly direction half a mile from the shore eastward of the village, but being
detached with deep water between, they do not form a perfect breakwater.
Pisayama Rock, the innermost, is in lat. 33" 29' 8' N., long. 135° 48' 55" E.
The best position is with Ilsino sima, the outer rock of the above chain, bear-
ing E.N.E., distant 1 J cable, and Mioga sima, South, or on with Isumo saki,
the West entrance point. The best anchorage for all weathers is off Kusimoto
village in 9 fathoms, 4 cables from the beach.

This very eligible harbour is largely resorted to by windbound junks, and it
offers every facility for repoirs and replenishing supplies. There are three vil-
lages, two on the mainland and one on the island. Water is easily obtained
from the latter village, it being led down in bamboo pipes to the rocks, which
have deep water alongside them. The large village oi Kusimoto, on the isthmus,
is well supplied with all the essentials usually required by the coasting trade.

The cargoes of the windbound junks consisted of rice, sugar, tobacco, char-

r1(

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IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)

1.0

l-l^ 12.5

I.I

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1.25

1.4 III 1.6

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Photographic

Sciences
Corporation

23 WEST MAIN STREET

WEBSTER, N.Y. USaO

(716) 872-4503

.<* ^

<<**i

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816

THE JAPANESE ABCIIIPELAOO.

ooal, Bait, lako (tpirito), and dried fish. Charcoal of an excellent quality for
steaming purposes was obtained from them. The villagers supplied fish and
poultry ; some deer were brought off, also a few bullocks, and a small quantity
of vegetables.

LIOHTHOUSE.— Od sima is about 3^ miles long East and West, and rises
to a height of 536 ft. On its East point is a white lighthouse, 27 ft. high,
■howing a bn'i/ht lighv, revolvitiff e\ery half minute, cicvnted 130 ft., and visible
18 miles seaward between W. by N. J T and S.W. J S.

Directions. — Approaching 06 sima Ilnrbour from the westward, a heavy
tide-race is often met with off Siwo misaki. To clear the dangers extending
from the South side of Siwo misaki promontory, the right extreme of Oii sima,
the most southern point seen, must not be brought eastward of E.N.E. until
the West point of Mioya lima, an island off the West point of Oii sima, comes
well open of Itumo *nXi, the western entrance point, N.W. by N. ^ N., when
it may be steered for, taking care not to bring it northward of that bearing
until within half a mile of it, or until the Eust extreme of Isumo saki bears
S.W. by S. I S., when steer N.W. i N., passing mid-channel between the land
and Minga bima, which has n small ledge running off its South side ; after pass-
ing Mioga, steer for the anchorage.

If compelled to work in, the Oii sima shore is the clearest, but take care to
avoid a dangerout rock lying 1| cable W.S.W. of the West point of I'nuya sima,
an island, 120 ft. high, off the S.W. point of Oii sima. The S.W. bay of Oii
siniu is clear of danger.

Approaching the northern entrance of the harbour from the north-eastward,
Oii sima flat summit bearing S.W. by W. \ W. leads 7 cables N.W. of Kami
seh Rock (which has 16 ft. over it, and lies 1| mile N.E. \ E. from the light-
house), and parallel with the mainland, off which are numerous scattered rocks
only showing at low water, some more than half a mile off. Continue this
course until the lighthouse beni-s S. ^ W., wher^ Omi saki, the North point of
Oii sima, may be steered for W. by S., which will lead 2^ cables South of a
5-fathoms patch situated S. ^ W. the same distance from Kuro Sima Rocks,
which are two small rocks with foul ground off their West side. The small
rock off Omi saki may bo passed quite close-to, after which steer westward so
OS to give the South extreme of the rocks off Hasingui a berth of half a cable,
and thenco to the anchorage.

At niyht, with the light on Oii sima bearing westward of S.W., a vessel will
pass well clear of ArundcII Point. It is recommended to steer so as to pass
eastward of Kami seh Kock, and thence between it and Double Rocks off Oii
sima East point.

It is high water in Oii sima Harbour, on full and change, at 6** 50" ; springs
rise 5 ft., neaps 4 ft.

Koza gawa is a small but opulent town, situated on the East side of the
entrance of a river, 2\ miles N.N.E. of the North point of Oii sima. The river

NIPON ISLAND— UBA.KAMI HABBOUB.

hu • ihifting bar, but a obaonel, generally defined by breaken, it alwaya avail'
able for ooaating junlu. At high water, 10 ft. may be looked for on the bar,
probably more, but strangers should send a boat ahead to sound. Kon gawa
is the seat of an important whale fishery, and at the North end of the town is
an eztensiTe timber yard, in which are spars of considerable dimensions. Small
supplies of poultry, fish, rice, &c., can be obtained.

TJBA-EAMI HABBOUB is an inlet running 1^ mile in a W.S.W. direction
into the land, at 6^ miles N.E. by N. from the East point of Od sima, and, al-
though small, affords excellent shelter in 4 to 5 fathoms, over stiff mud. For
steamers it offers an admirable haven, but being only a quarter of a milo wide,
sailing vessels might experience a difficulty in getting in or out, particularly in
entering, as, from the direction of the valley at the head of the harbour, the
wind, which may be fair outside, is frequently found inside to be blowing
straight out.

In entering, avoid a spit of rocks projecting about half a mile E.N.E. from
the South point of entrance. One of them, named Hive, is 36 ft. high, and
some arc covered, but show sufficiently to be easily avoided.

^rundell Point, the North entrance point of Ura-kami, is rooky, with low
cliffs. A wedge-shaped rock, 20 ft. high, lies I cable N.E. of it, and a rock,
awash at high water, lies S.E. by S. i S., 2^ cables from the point. Taixe ura,
two bays westward of Tomio taki, the North end of Arundell Point, are
studded with dangers.

Kati ura is a small and sheltered harbour, protected on the southern side
by a small islet, and to the eastward by a point, on the East side of which are
high dark cliffs, 160 to 278 ft. high ; southward of this point are high pinnacle
rocks, and two small islets. The harbour has a depth of 3 to 6 fathoms, sand
and mud, the only danger being a small cluster of rocks, awash at high water,
150 yards from the eastern shore. The islet on the southern side forms two
channels, but only the eastern, 125 yards wide, is navigable. There is a village
here, and some mineral springs. Fish, poultry, rice, and potatoes are plentiful.
Largo junks load with inferior coal, brought from Singo, a town on the River
Olomthi, 7 miles to the N.N.E.

To enter Kats ura, pass between Black Boc^c, lying 6} cables N. i E. from
Tomio saki, and Tera sima, and thenoo steer for Bluff Point, the South point
of the islets southward of Kats ura, and round it at the distance of half a cable,
to avoid some sunken rocks lying to the southward. Anchor N.N.E. of the
islet on the southern shore. To the N.W. a fine cascade is visible, falling
275 ft. Large vessels will find shelter from N.W. winds in the bay northward
of Kats ura, in 10 fathoms.

£da j/atna, a sharp peak 1,166 ft. high, 1 mile fit>m the coast, and 2^ mile*
North of Otonashi Biver, is a useful mark. The coast hero is a steep continuotis
shingle beach for 12}^ miles, with some villages on it. At the northern ez-
North Pae\/io, 5 m

8]8

THE JAPANESE ABCHIPELAQO.

tremitjr of this beach u a amall bay, lying between two hilly points, with the
village of Odomori mura at its heoJ. Marmurika Rock, 70 ft. high, lies off
the eastern point, and must be passed on its southern side. Small vessels would
find shelter here from northerly winds, in about 8 fathoms, in the centre of the
bay. Ataihika ura, N.E. of Odomari mura, is open to winds between S.E. by E.
and S.W. by S., and has n depth of 5 to 11 fathoms, sand. Fowls, rice, and
fish can bo procured from the villages. Neyetlma ura, N.E. of Atashika ura,
hns very deep water. The coast hereabout is high nnd cliffy.

Xada Bay, N.E. of Ncgesimn, extends 3 miles to N.N.W., with an arm on
either side, the western of which affords sheltered anchorage in 5 to 10 fathoms,
nearly at its head. The bay is surrounded by high wooded ranges, and there
are several villages on its shores. In entering the bay, pass southward of
Outer Rock, 30 ft. high, lying nearly 7 cables S.W. by S. ^ S. from Ithimo
saki, the N.E. entrance point, which is rocky and cliffy. At 3 miles N. by
E. i E. from this point is Kuki taki, a cliffy promoatory, the southern point of
Owasi Bay.

0WA8I BAT is 4 miles wide at its entrance between Kuki saki and Doma-
kura saki, and 4| miles deep, branching into four inlets, only the northern and
southern of which are suitable as anchorages, the others being smaller, and
only frequented by junks. Owaii no minalo, the southern and largest inlet,
is open to the eastward. Yaguehi ura, the northern one, is 3 miles long, with
deep water up to its head, where it shoals gradually off the village, affording
excellent sheltered anchorage in 8 fathoms. Fowls, fish, and vegetables may
be obtained at the villages.

Togashira aima, 2]^ miles N.N.W. of Kuki saki, rises to a height of 527 ft.,
and is covered with trees, showing in bold relief against the high land behind
it. Some other islets and rocks lie to the northward and westward. Vessels
entering should pass northward of these. It is high water in the bay, on full
and change, at 7*" ; springs rise 5J ft., neaps 2 ft.

Nearly 2 miles N.E. by N. \ N. from Domokura saki is Sasado saki, at 1
mile westward of which is Sima kachiura, affording anchorage for small vessels
in westerly winds. The land to the westward is high. Otai yatna, in lat.
34° ir N., long. 136° 5^' E., a mountain 5,620 ft. high, is a conspicuous object
when approached from the eastward, and is apparently the highest land seen
from that direction.

NAO UBA, 4^ miles N.N.E. of Sasado saki, affords good anchorage for small
vessels at all times, but large vessels would not. bo protected from southerly
winds. The approaches from the offing appear to bo studded with dangers,
but by giving the numerous small islets a wide berth there is no difficulty in
entering. titna, the largest of these outl}ring islands, has a wooded summit
339 ft. high, a conspicuous mark from seaward. Sahara lima, a black rook 14
feet high, lies 9^ cables to S.E. i 8., and is the outermost.

The bay is 1 mile wide at the entrance, but farther in it narrows and trends

NIPON ISLAND— CAPE SIMA.

819

half a mile to the N.E., terminating in two small arms, in the southern of
which a small vessel will find sheltered anchorage in 7 fathoms, mud. A largo
vessel can anchor in 6j^ fathoms, sand, 2^ cables from the eastern side of the
entrance to the bay. Fish, poultry, rice, and vegetables can be obtained from
the villages.

Koa ura, 5^ miles eastward of Nag ura, and Hota ura, 2 miles beyond, arc
clear of danger, but too narrow to be recommended u anchorages.

Naiya ura, 2 miles East of Koa ura, is 1^ mile wide at the entrance, and
2^ miles deep, with two narrow arms, extending N.N.E. and N.N.W. There
are several small islets, but the only danger is Pearce Reck, awash at low water,,
lying off the western point of Hosa ura, 3 cables from the shore. Anchorage
may be obtained in either arm, the eastern having a depth of 3^ to 5 fothoms,
open to S.S.W. ; the western arm, sheltered !tom all winds, has depths of 9 to
14 fathoms, with a patch of 12 ft. situated 1^ cable from its eastern side. Fish,
Sec, can be procured at the villages. * '•'.■'.■.''

laskara ura, open to winds between S.E. by S. and S.S.W., has anchorage
in 7^ to 0} fathoms, off a small wooded islet at the head of the bay, 'n front of
the village of Taskara. After passing the southernmost rock off Entrance
Point, the East point, Tokin tan Peak, 1,640 ft. high, with bare slopes seaward,
kept N. by W. i W., leads up the centre of the bay to the anchorage.

Mora Harbour is about 1 mile wide at its entrance, and extends 4 miles
northward, dividing in the centre into two arms, the anchorage being in the
western one, in 10 fathoms, offtho village of Haztama. The entrance may bo
recognised by two large clumps of trees on a hill, 565 ft. high, about 1 i mile
N.E. by N. from the eastern entrance point. To enter, p'ecr in mid-channel to
pass 2 cables West of Kndzura sinia; a course N.N.K. uom hence will lead
towards the outer rock off the northern entrance point to the western arm.

Ooza Harbour, 3 miles East of Mura Unrbour, affords shelter from all but
westerly winds. Its entrance is 1 mile wide, and thenco it extends to the
eastward. An inlet, named Ilamagema ura, on the northern shore, just within
the entrance, affords sheltered anchorage for small vessels, in 5 to 7 fathoms ;
the bar has 12ft. water on it. Largo vessels can anchor in 7^ fathoms, sand,
cables within the entrance of the bay, or nearly 2 miles farther East in 14 .
fathoms, mud. It is high water in Hamagema ura at O** 15" ; springs rise 6 ft.,
neaps 1^ foot. P'owls, &c., may be procured from the villages.

CAFE SIMA, Xima, or Taio >aki, is a low wooded headland, 8 miles
eastward of Ooza Harbour entrance. At 3j cables East of it is a conspicuous
rock, 35 ft. high, and from hence to the S.W. several dangers lie off the coast.
sima and Ao titna, two wooded islets 3^ cables apart, lie from 1^ to 2 miles
S.W. of Mugi $aki, on which is a conspicuous clump of trees ; long reefs and
sunken rocks extend in all directions from these islets, the sea generally break-
ing on them, owing to the constant swell caused by the strong tides. Outer
Re^, which always breaks, uncovers 3 ft. at low water, and lies S. by W. ^ W.

820

THE JAPANESE ABCIIIPELAaO.

2 miles fi-om O Bima, with Jeujt yama, » oontpiouoiu bore hill, 1,280 ft. high,
just open \Ve«'. of Qon saki, N.W. by N. | N. Numerous tide rips occur out-
side the recfii.

Northward of Cape Sima to the entrance of Matoja Harbour, a distance of 5
miles, the coast is skirted by dangerous off-lying rocks.

MATOTA EARBOITB, 6 miles North of Cape Sima, is open only to the
East. Its entrance is 6^ cables wide, but immediately within rocks extend
northward fVom the southern shore, and contract the navignble channel to a
width of 3^ cables. The harbour is divided into numerous inlets and bays,
with safe anchorage in nearly all of them. A few fowls, eggs, and fish may be
obtained.

IIOHTHOUSE. — On the East extreme of Anorx taii, the South entrance
point, is a white lighthouse, 41 ft. high, showing a briyht light, molving
CTcry half minute, eleratcd 102 ft., and visible 15 miles seaward between
W. i N. und S.W. f 8.

Haka si, a rocky patch uncovered at low water, lies just within, the North
point of entrance, and a quarter of a mile off shore ; another patch lies 3
cables to the N.W. Watakano sima lies in the S.W. part of the harbour ;
North and South of it are two inlets, in the northern of which, H cable wide,
is the town of Matoya.

On entering Matoya Harbour the reefs on either side are nearly all visible ;
steer so as to pass the outer rock above water, on the southern shore inside
Anon saki, at a distance of 1^ to 2 cables, and then alter course to West for
the opening leading to the town, seen South of the cliffs of Miya no saki ; this
will lead If cable South of Haka se, and well clear of the rocks off a point on
the southern shore. With northerly windes large vessels may find good anchor-
age in the northern portion of the harbour, in 5^ fathoms, with the lighthouse
bearing S.E. i S., and the outer rock above water, off Miya no saki, S.W. ;
and with winds from the southward off the East extreme of Watakano sima, in
8 fathoms, with the N.E. point of that island bearing N.W. by W. ^ W. It
is high water, on full and change, at G** 50" ; springs rise 6 ft., neaps 1^ foot.

For 6 miles North of Matoya Harbour the coast is foul, and fringed with
off-lying reefs ; it then suddenly turns to the N.W., and is split up into many
rocky inlets, of which Toha Bay is the largest. Stretching hence across the
entrance to Owari Bay are numerous islands and rocks.

The town of Toba is on the West point of a shallow creek West of Toba
Bay, and off it lies the island of Sakate, 349 ft. high. Fish, &c., can be ob-
tained, also wood suitable for small spars. Great caution is necessary in navi-
gating in this locality. There is anchorage in 10 fethoms, 2 cables off a village
on the South side of Sakate, and also in 6^ ftithoms between the West end of
Sakate and He sima, three islets 7^ cables North of Tob«e«atle. The mountains
above Toba are high.

LI0HTH0V8E.— /S'uya sima, East of Sakate, is about 2 miles long, and

NIPON I8LAND-0WARI BAT.

831

rises to n height of 773 ft. Kooks extend off its East point. On its N.E. ex-
tremity is a white lighthouse, 34 ft. high, showing tL fixed briyht light, elerated
176 ft., and visible 15 miles between N.W. by N. f N. and S. i W.

The channel West of Momotori sima is deep, and 4 cables wide. Nearly n
mile West of it is a bay, with a rock 10 ft. high in the centre; the best an-
chorage here is in 6^ fathoms, 2^ cables S.W. of the N.E. point. About a
mile westward is Ye mura, a large village at the mouth of the Kagamiye gawa,
and 2^ miles farther on the Minalo gawa flows into the bay. Shoal water
extends off the latter, and for 1} mile northward of Toba sima there is only 4
to A fathoms, there being a deep channel into Owari Bay between these banks.

Momotori sima, nearly a mile North of Suga sima, is 3^ miles long, and
rises to a height of 552 ft. Some islets extend westward of its western end,
the outermost named Tola tima. A ledgo of 3 fathoms lies a quarter of a
mile South of the peninsula at its S.E. end, and a rock, awash at low water,
lies 6f cables East of the same point. There is shelter from southerly winds
for a small vessel in the buy on the North side of Momotori ; and there is also
anchorage on the southern side of the island in 6 or 7 fathoms.

A chain of islets and rocks extends 2^ miles north-eastward of the N.E.
point of Momotori sima, Odzu-kumi lima, half a mile distant, and 268 ft. high,
being the highest of the chain. Eastward of Kodxu-kumi tima, the eastern*
most, are two pinnacle rocks named Konaa aima and Shimodauaa aitna, with
less than 6 ft. water over them, and 6 cables apart N. i E. and S. ^ W.
Konsa sima, the northernmost, lies 8^ cables N.E. by E. from Kodzu-kumi,
and the other lies 7 cables E. by S. ^ S. Suga sima lighthouse bearing S.W. i S.
leads well eastward of them.

Kami sima, nearly in the centre of the main entrance to Owari Bay, rises
on its eastern side in precipitous cliffs to a height of 544 ft. Some rocks lie
off its shores, and to the S.W. of it are Oki no at, two dangerous reefs, the
eastern of which, nearly awash at low water, bears S.W. ^ W., I^ mile, from
the summit. The western reef, half a mile S.W. of the eastern, has a rock
2 ft. above high water on its western side. Suga sima lighthouse bearing
W.S.W. leads 3^ cables South of these reefs ; Kodzu-kumi summit N.W. f N.
leads \\ cable West of them. At 3f miles E.S.E. of Suga sima lighthouse is
Tat aima, a 5-&thoms shoal, which breaks in very heavy weather.

Directioni. — When abreast Matoya, bring Kodzu-kumi summit to bear
N. f W., which will lead about a mile East of Ishigaki iwa, after passing
which the course can be shaped to pass westward of Suga sima to Toba an-
chorage, or bring Yoroi saki in line with Ishigaki iwa S. i W., astern, unti
past the East end of Suga sima ; the South extreme of Momotori sima bearing
W. i S. leads in the deepest water North of Suga sima lighthouse, if wishing
to proceed to the anchorages.

L to saki, tLe eastern entrance point of Owari Bay, is a rooky promontory,
172 ft. high, with a sharp peak, 484 ft. high, a mile eastward of it. Some dc«

THE JAPANESE ARCHIPELAQO.

taohed rocks Ho to tho eastward, and tomoIs should not approach tho cape
within three-quarters of a mile. The tidal streams run strongly off it. Nortli-
ward of it Ihir protection from winds between N.E. and South may be found in
7 fathoms, about 3^ cablet from the shingU beaoh. H.M.S. Sjflvia rode out a
typhoon here in 1877.

OWA&I BAT, or 1»1 Sea, the main entrance to which lies between Kami
$ima and Irako saki, is about 35 miles long. North and South, and divided into
three separate arms, that to tho westward being the largest. According to ex-
aminations made by the German war-vessel Elizabeth, 1877, and tho Japanese^
Qwari Bay has no greater depth than 22 fiithoms, gradually shoaling towards
its head, off which shoal water extends for about 5 miles. Large vessels, with-
out local knowledge, should not shoal to less than 8 fiithoms. Vessels can an-
chor in any part of the bay.

. The western side of the bay shows a high mountain range, broken opposite
Yakaichi. The eastern coast is low ; from Moro saki to Taka me suki are hills
of moderate elevation ; North of Noma saki the land appears level and wooded.
The l^abofi in 1875, proceeding in nearly a direct line from Kami sima to
Yakaichi, on the West shore, obtained soundings of 12 to 25 fathoms at 21- or
3 miles from the East shore. A shoal of 2^ fathoms, mud, extends about 2^
miles firom the eastern shore, S.S.W. of Onia saki village.

Takaiohi is the port where all produce from the interior is shipped. Native
ateam-vessels call regularly, and the place is of rising importance. AUuda
Bay, the head of Owari Bay, is ;jhoal; Fune Kata or Atatau, on its N.E. shore,
is the seaport oi Nangoya, one of the largest and most opulent cities in tho
empire, to which it is proposed to construct a railway, about 4 miles long,
thence to bo extended till it joins with the system described with Iliogo here-
after. The Thahor anchored in 2^ fathoms about 5 miles from the village.

Mikawa Bay, the western arm of Owari Bay, appears to have no greater
depth than 12 fathoms, and to have a remarkably even sandy bottom, and well
protected from a heavy sea.

The channel between Kami sima and Irako saki is safe, but if entering nt
night care is necessary, as they are somewhat similar in appearance. The
southern passage shoidd not be attempted.

The Coast from Irako saki trends to the eastward for about 60 miles as far
as Omai saki, and is one long stretch of sandy beach, on which are sand-hills
and patches of trees. Ilamana Ko, the entrance to which is nearly midway
between, is an extensive shallow sheet of water, only admitting junks nt high
water; the coast westward of it is formed of remarkable yellow sandy cliffs.
On the eastern side of the entrance is the town of Mayesaka, and 8 miles in-
land is Hamamat$Ut a large town and telegraph station. Ttvrin yawa, 12
miles eastward of the entrance, is a river of some sise, and off ita entrance,-
named Kaketuka tninato, is a spit, under the lee of which, during westerly
windfl, good anchorage may be found in 7 to 10 fathoms. The water off thit

NIPON ISLAND— GULP OP 8URTJGA.

est

flout is much diieoloured. During the winter months, Oetoher to March,
on this coast westerly winds prevail, accompanied by fine clear weather.

OMAI 8AKI is a dark wooded bluff, 150 ft. in height, terminating a very
•andy shore with high beaches, backed by wooded hills. It may also be recog-
nised by two remarkable white patches, only one of which is visible from East
or West. Shelving rocks, dry at low water, extend 3^ cables from high-water
mark. A white beacon, bearing a ball, stands about three-quarters of a mile
N.W. of the cape.

LIGHTHOUSE.— On a sand-hill on the S.W. part of Omai saki is a white
tower, 71 ft. high, showing a biyht light, revolving every half minute, elevated
173 ft., and visible 19 miles seaward between N.E. and W. by N. ^ N.

Nearly 2 miles East of the southern point of Omai saki arc Lady Inglit
Rockt or Gozen itca, on which the vessel Lady Inglii was wrecked in 1859.
They consist of a reef one-third tf a mile long, North and South, composed of
isolated rocks, which usually uncover 4 ft. at low water springs ; they do not
always break nt high water, but the locality is marked by tide rips. There is
a deep channel between them and the shore, but a small rock, awash at low
water, lies nearly midway between.

Good shelter from westerly winds between North and S.W. may be found
North of Omai saki, in 6 fathoms, good holding ground. North Rock, awash
at high water, lies N. by W. \ W., 5 miles from Lady Inglis Uocks, and about
1 mile .off shore.*

OULF of SUBU6A (the rulomi GulJ'oi former charts), the waters of which
wash the western shore of the peninsula of Idsu, is 35 miles deep, and 3U miles
wide at its entrance, and, with the exception of Lady Inglis and North Reefs,
is thought to be free from any impediment to navigation. The water in it is
very deep, no bottom at 250 fathoms being found at mid-entrance, none at 160
fathoms midway across near the head of the gulf, and none at 110 fathoms at
a little more than a mile from the western shore.

The eastern side of the gulf, the shore of the Idsu peninsula, is generally a
belt of cliffs, broken, however, into several denp-water havens, which, though
small, afford good anchorage, but for sailing vessels with a foul wind are all
difficult of access, and the entrances of those horbours that are known, Tago,
Arari, Heda, and Yeno \ira Bays, on the Idsu shore, are too narrow to admit

* The barquo Oleander was reported, in 1880, to havo struck on a rock 6 miles N.E. by
N. \ N. from Omai saki. This rock was searched for without suooess by Liaut. K. Hoskyn,
K.N., inl881.

Fortmouth Breakeri.—Caft. Foote, U.S. frigato Ptrtmcuth, 1868, reported that he nearly
lost bis vessel <a a reef about 36 miles in a south-westerly direction from Simoda, and 13
miles from the nearest land, but no indication of such a shoal has since been found, though
a remarkable discolouration of the water has been seen. It seems highly probable they are
«ither identical with Lady Inglis Reef, or that a shoal of fish or a current overfall caused
the disturbance in the water, which gavo birth to the report.

824

THE JAPANESE ARCHIPELAQO.

of muoh manoDuvring. The wMtera tide appean leM preoipitoua, but equally
•teep-to. The ahore at the head ia low and sandy, with numeroua Tillage*.
Three large riren flow into the N.W. side of the bay.

7UBI TAMA,— At the head of the gulf ia Fuai yama, 12,460 ft. high, the
highest mountain in Japan, and although its summit is 13 miles inland, it ap-
pears in clear weather to rise nearly abruptly from the beach. It is held to be
sacred by the Japanese, and is the object of pilgrimage. The first Europeans
who ascended it were a party of eight Englishmen, at the head of whom was
Sir Rutherford Alcock, C.B., the British Envoy and Plenipotentiary in Japan,
September, 1860. The crater on the summit is about 1,000 yards long, 600
yards wide, and 350 yards deep. Its position is lat. 35'^ 21' N., long.
138" 44' 30" E.*

SHIHIOZrr HAEBOnS, surveyed by H.M.S. Aotaon, in 1861, is formed
by a low tongue of land of considerable width, stretching out in a north-
easterly direction from the N.W. shore of the gulf. It affords good shelter in
10 to 15 fathoms, soft mud, with an inner onchorage at its head, available for
small craft, in which, if required, they could be beached for repairs. A small
river empties itself at its head. It is high water, on full and change, at T** 30" ;
springs rise 7 ft.

This tongue of low land is well covered by sugar plantations and villages.
Its extreme North point, of sand and shingle, is steep-to, and vessels running
for the harbour may safely skirt the beach, and rounding the point at 2 cables,
anchor as convenient. The town is situated at the South end of the harbour,
and Is the centre of a large and productive sugar-growing district. '

Larg? spars, pine, and fir (the latter having a very short grain), small
.oiigh spars, small pieces of particularly hard oak, also sugar of a very fair
quality, a little flour, a few fowls, fish, and vegetables, and water can be ob-
tained. There was no coal, but charcoal, when attoijiable in sufficient quanti-
ties, is admirably adapted for steaming purposes.

Y£NO XJBAft an excellent harbour, in the N.E. angle of Suruga Qulf, is 1
mile long. North and South, and 8 cables deep, jira tima, a wooded island,
affording shelter from westerly winds, lies off the South point of entrance, and
there is a small monument on the North point. The soundings ia the bay are
deep, 20 to 30 fathoms, and it is open to the West, but there is good shelter
from all winds in a small bay in its northern part, where the depth is 13
fathoms, over fine sand. In steering for this small bay, keep midway between
its western shore and the clifis on the eastern. A town stands on the western
shore, and a small river flows into the bay, but as water is obtained from it

* A very interestiag account of this ascent, and of Japanese matters in general, is given
in the Journal of the Royal Geographical Society, 1861, pp. 322—356.

t The description of Yeno ura, Heda, Aran, and Tago Bays, ia chiefly by Lieut. Elki%
of the Bossian frigate Liatui, 1863—55.

oiu, but equally
imeroui Tillage*.

50 ft. high, the
ea inland, it ap-
It is held to be
9 first Europeans
id of whom was
mtiory in Japan,
yards long, 600
>° 21' N., long.

1861, is formed
out in a north-
s good shelter in
ad, available for
opairs. A small
iiange, at T"" 30" ;

»ns and villages.
I vessels running
>oint at 2 cables,
of the harbour,
trict.

rt grain), small
X of a very fair
ater cou be ob-
sufficient quanti-

uruga Ottlf, is 1
I wooded island,
of entrance, and
;s ia the bay are
is good shelter
the depth is 13
midway between
8 on the western
abtained from it

in general, is givon
ly by Lieut. Elki^

U i " » *i » i / / • s 4 T v / K A D Z U

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*r';*" v^»' "'X''" ,,

yoko ■ qhm\ y<una.

84
46

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N'lroX ISLAND-TIIE GULP OP YKDO.

fi24

with (lifncuUy, on account of its Bhallownou, it is best to procure it from tho
town wells. Tlicro is nbundanoo of fish and vegetables. 'II10 tide rises about
4 feet

H«d« Bfty, on tho East shore of the gulf, in lat. 34° 58^' N.. is 8 cables in
extent, N.W. ond 8.E., 4 to 9 cables wide, with a depth of 8 to 22 fnthomH,
over fine sand. Tho entrance, a quarter of a mile wide, and open to tho
N.W., is to tho northward of a low sandy spit extending half a milu northward
from the southern shore. It is a safe and aceessiblo anchornge, nnd is shel-
tered on all sides by high mountains. There is a village in n valley at its head ;
ii»h and vegetables arc abundant. Tho tide riiicB 5.} ft.

Arari Buy, Hheltcrcd from oil winds, but only fit for small craft, lies 9 mil. .;
southward of Ileda Hay. It is 4 cables in extent, North ond South, ond 2 fo
(1 cables across, witli depths of to 12 falliomx, over fine sand. Tho ■ ' urcs of
tho bay are mountainous. Water may be conveniently obtained fro ihe vil-
lage on the eastern *' > ; fish is plentiful. The entrance, open to the N.W.,
is only half a cubic wide; in enterin;^, keep in mid-eliannel, and when >u)nil
island opens, ciocr between it and the sandy point to tho S.W.

Tago Bay, about a niilo b'outh of Arari Uay, is 4 cables in extent, North nnd
South, and half a mile wide. It is sheltered from all winds, with depths of 12
to 20 fathoms, soft mud bottom. There is a small town here, and water can bo
obtained from tho wells. l''ish and vegetables can be procured.

In steering for the entrance, which is open to tho N.W., two islands (lying
half a mile W.N.W. from the South point of entrance) will be seen, with rocks
nnd breakers extending to the southward from them. I'nss northward of these
islands, between them and the mainland.

These four bays just described will serve as a refuge from S.W. winds, which
eausc a great swell in Suruga Gulf. Their coasts arc wooded and mountainous,
attaining tho height of 1,000 ft. The entrances must be approached fearlessly,
fur the hijjh coast conceals them, and the bays only open when within a mile.

THE GULF OF YEDO.

The GULF of YEDO, connected with Yedo Bay by Uraga Channel, is
bounded on tho West by tho mountainous peninsula of Idsu (terminated to tho
southward in Capo Idsu), and on the East by that of Awo, tho southern point
of which is 52 miles distant.

IRO-O SAXI, or Cape Idsn, is a fine bold rocky headland, and may be recog-
nised by a conspicuous white cliff, SJ miles N.W. of it, nnd a coait.'\ rocky
peak a few miles further in the same direction, forming the S.W. extreme of
the peninsula. The summit of Capo Idsu is a hill 250 ft. high, which falls into
two small ridges to the sea. There is on islet 50 ft. high a (juarter of a mile off
North Paci/ic. 5 N

: 1

826

THE JAPANESE ARCHIPELAGO.

For 3 miles E.N.E. the coast is fronted

the shore, 1 mile West of the cope,
with sunken rocks.

LIGHTHOUSE— On Iro-o saki is a white lighthouse, 24 ft. high, showing
ajxed red light, elevated 185 ft., and visible 8 or 10 miles seaward between
E. f N. and \V. by N. J N.

ROCK ISLAND and LIGHTHOUSE.— Eock Island, or Mikomoto, is about
104 ft. high, and a third of a mile in length, with precipitous shores and an un-
even outline ; it bears E. by S. J S. about 5 miles from Cape Idsu. On it is a
white lighthouse, 72 ft. high, showing a ^x«/ light, elevated 164 ft., and visible
19 miles. The ligbt is bright seaward, but red inshore over the dangers, be-
tween N.W. and N. by E., the latter bearing leading into Simodu Harbour.

Between this rock and the main land are the Yokone and live other rocks,
among which the junks freely pass ; but a vessel should not attempt to run
inside Rock Island at night. The channel between Rock Island and Ucona
Bocks carries irregular soundings of 9 and 14 to 30 fathoms ; a rocky 4-fathoms
patch lies 6J cables N. J W. from the lighthouse. The tides arc regular, the
flood setting W.S.W., 1^ mile an hour, the ebb E.N.E., from 2 to 3 miles per
hour ; the force of the ebb tide being considerably augmented by the general
north-easterly current.* The vicinity of Bock Island is remarkable for the
exceptionally bad weather frequently experienced in its neighbourhood.

Yokone or Ucona Bocks, two in number, though they generally appear as
one, bear N. by W., distant 2 miles from Bock Island ; the larger is about
25 ft. high. Five other rocks occupy a triangular space of a mile from W.S.W.
to N.N.W. of Yokone Bocks, the northern and southern of these small ledges
being nearly awash. A reef also extends 3 j cables towards them from Tohadgi
Point to the N.W. of Yokone Rocks. There is deep water between all th<?so
rocks.

SIMODA HABBOUBf is on the eastern side of the peninsula of Idsu, C
miles N.E. of Iro-o saki. To the northward of the harbour a high ridge inter-
S'-cts the peninsula ; and South of this, all the way to the cape, it is broken by
innumerable peaks of less e vation.

• The worst part of the coast for tido-rips is in tbo vicinity of IJock Island. Kino times
out often, in passing hero, these disugrcoablo things will ho met with. Thoy sometimes
take plnco in calm weather. Tbo calm soa suddenly sooms lashed into fury. Tho waves
rise like walla, bo noar together that a vessel has no time to ris^o and fall, but has to
flounder through in the most uncomfortable manner. Large sliips have their decks washed
and their engine-gear severely tested. Small ones get literally thumpel and knocked
about. If an unlucky tailing ship jets drifted into one of those troublesome patches in a

calm, she is very roughly handled; and to small vessels they arc exceedingly danger uu.

Capt. U. C. St. Johit, U.M.S. Sylvia.

t The harbour was sxirveyod, in 1854, by the oflScers under Commodoro Perry, TJ.S.N.,
and tho directions which follow are based upon thoso drawn up by Liout, Wm. L. Muury,
TJ.S.N., combined with later iuformalioo.

GULF OF YEDO— SIMODA nAUBOUR.

827

Stuart or Vmuhlta Bluff, the East point of entrance, will be known by a
grove of pine trees on the summit of the bluff, nnd the village of Susaki, which
is about a third of the way between it and Capo Diamond. The entrance is
8^ cables wide, but n short distance within it narrows to half a mile. The town
stands on the West shore, and Kaki-saki village on the East. Wood, water,
fish, &c., may be procured.

Cape Diamond, or Tstimigi saki, is 1 ^ mile eastward of the entrance, nnd
immediately off it is n rocky islet, and northward of it the buy of Siraliuma,
which, as it has several sand beaches, may be mistaken for Simoda Ilnrbour ;
but, on approaching this. Cape Diamond will shut in Cape Idsu, Yukonc liocks,
and Itock Island to the southward, whilst in Simoda lload they arc visible from
all points.

Simoda (which means "low field") was the port selected, with Hakodate
at the South end of Yezo, as the first Treaty Ports by the American Expedi-
tion ; and is, therefore, of much interest to the commercial world. The treaty
was signed on March 31st, 1854.*

Oki Jlibari sima, or Centre Island, lying nearly in the middle of Simoda
Harbour, bears N. J E., 5J miles, from Eock Island, nnd N. by E. J E., 3i
miles, from Yokone llocks. It is high, conical, covered with trees, and a cave
passes entirely through it. Ilibari sima, or Duisako Islet, a quarter of a milo
to N.N.E., is about 40 ft. high, and wooded.

Oonagare (Southampton) and Sapply Rocks arc two hidden dangers in
Simoda Harbour. Southampton Hock, in mid-channel, S. by E. ^ E., 2 cables
from the South point of Centre Island, nnd N. ^ W. from Vandalia IJlufT,
about three-fourths of the way between it and Centre Island, is about 25 ft.
in diameter, has 2 fathoms water on it, and was marked by a tihtte spar buoy.
Supply Ilock, lying S. by W. a short distance from Buisaco, is a sharp rock,
with 1 1 ft. water on it, nnd was marked by a red spar buoy. The East end of
Centre Island in line with the West end of Buisaeo leads westward of South-
ampton Bock.

In the outci" road, or mouth of the harbour, a disagreeable swell is some-
times experienced ; but inside Southampton Rock and Centre Island, vessels
are well sheltered, and the water comparatively smooth. Moor with open
hawse to the S.W.

When this harbour wac surveyed, in 1853-4, the bottom throughout was
mud ; but n few months subsequently the harbour was scoured out to its granite
foundations by the back-sweep of three huge waves which in succession rose
over the tops of the highest trees, and left the bay nearly empty. Large junks
were thrown some distance inland, and the Russian frigate Diana left all but a
total wreck.f It was always considered an unsafe nnd exposed bay when the

• See Commodoro Perry's " Nnrrativp," pp. 410, 453, &o.

t Tho trumenduus convulsion hero nlludcd to ii« one of th? meat romitrktiblo on record.

THE JAPANESE AUCIIU'ELAGO.

! I

anchorage groaiul was tolerable, being open to South nnil S.S.W., the direc-
tion from which the heaviest winds blow. II.M.S. Sijlvin rode out ii heavy
southerly gale here, and Capt. St. John reports the holding ground to bo e.\-
cellent.

It is high water in Simoda Harbour, on full and change, at S*" 0"" ; springs
rise 6 ft., mean rise 3 ft.

Directions. — If intending to anchor at Simoda, pass Uocl; Island at a mile,
when the harbour will be in full view to the northward. Standing in from this
island a vessel will probably pass through a number of tide-rips, but no sound-
ings will be obtained with the hand-lead until near the entrance, when the
depth will be 11 to 27 fathoms. Should the wind be from the nortliward, and
fresh, a sailing vessel should anchor at the mouth of the harbour until it lulls
or shifts, or until she can conveniently warp in, as the wind is usually flawy,
and always bafHiug.

Ajjproaching from the N.E. or eastward, a vessel can pass on cither side of
Vrics Island, from tlic North and South jioints of which, Cape Diamond
(Tsinnigi saki) bears respectively W.S.W. and West, distant about 21 miles,
lietwecn Vries and Simoda no dangers arc known to exist ; but the currents
arc uncertain, and strong near the coast.

Should Vries be obscured by thick weather, before reaching Capo Diamond**
endeavour to sight Rock Island, for there are no conspicuous objects on the
main land by which a stranger can recognise the harbour at a distance, and the
shore appears as one unbroken line. To the westward of the harbour there are
several sand beaches, and three or four sand-banks ; these can be plainly dis-
cerned when within G or 8 miles, and arc good landmarks. Olf the village of
Susaki, at a third of a mile from the shore, is a ledge of rocks upon which the
surf always btcaks. Give them a berth of 2 cables.

Adiniinl Count Pontiiilinc has given a brief stalomcnt of its effect on tho Diana. On Dl-o.
2;irJ, 1854, at 9| a.m., without any previous indication, tho shock of an rnrthqu.iko orciirrcd,
wliie'h lasted two or throo minutes, shaking^ tho vossol vory much. At 10'' a huqjo wavo
entered tho bay, and, rushing on tlio shore, waslied nearly every building in Simoda awav.
A second wave rushed in five minutes aflorward.s, ami at 10]'' a third wave leftonly sixteen
out of one thousand hoiiscs standing. From lOJ till noon tho water sank and roso so ex-
traordinarily that tho depth varied from 8 foot to 40 feet dopth at hor mooringj, and sho
was flung about and turned no loss than 43 times round her anchor in tliirty mlnulo<. After
this tho agitation diminished, but continued for some hours. Tho Dinna was much injured,
and her crew, on January 18th, were compelled to leavo her. She was taken in tow hy 100
junks to caiTy her into tho buy, but, after proceeding a few miles, a small white cloud ap-
peared, on perceiving which tho Japanese fled panic-stricken, and cast her adrift. In a
very short time a violent storm arose, in which sho foundered, Tho waves which wore raised
reached tho coabt of California a few hours after, and wuro rrgislercd then.

• Commander C. Bullock, 11.N., observed, October 6th, 1800, some submarino jots, ap-
parently of steami about 10 milos N>E. of Capo Diamond, and 2 miles off the Linil.

GULF OF YEDO-ODOWARA IIAY.

820

Approncliiiip; Sitnoila from the H.I'], pass westward of Kusu simn, from which
the harbour hoars N. by W. J W., distant about 27 miles.

From Iro-o saki the coast rounds in a N.E. direction 20 miles to Futo saki,
its general features being high, rocky, and even, having near Simoda a few
8andy beaches. Dctween Simoda and Futo saki the coast is bold of approach.
Over it the mountain Amagi yama rises to 4,700 ft., and on the N.E. ridge is
a conspicuous dome-shaped hill.

From Futo saki the coast trends more to the northward, forming r\ slight
bend to Fuhi-ura, where it becomes more broken, but maintains its bold fea-
tures under a lower range, the two higlicst points of which are elevated 2,070
and 2,100 ft. ; \indcr the latter is a round hill witli a large qtiarry. l-'roin these
hills the long low promontory of Matia/suni, bordered by vertical clifi's, stretches
to the eastward, and oil" its extreme point is a rock 20 ft. high. On its West
side is the ojjcn bay of Fuku-ura. From thence the coast assumes a lower
elevation, and gradually bending round to the eastward forms the treacherous
IJay of Odawara.

To the northward of Futo saki arc some small islands, the largest of whieii,
Ilatsu slma, miles distant, and 120 ft. high, is about 3 miles offshore, and to
W. by N. of it is the bay of Jjiro. This bay is open to N.E. winds, and an-
chorage may be obtained off the South point, on which is a village.

Atami Bay, 2] miles North of Ajiro, may be distinguished by a small white
cliff to the northward ; the water in the bay is deej), there being no bottom at
20 fathoms at the entrance ; a natural breakwater forms a shelter for small
vessels in 5 to 13 fathoms. Anchorage may be obtained in 7 fathoms, black
sand, with Ilulau simu bearing S.E. \ E., and a rock off the South point
S. by E. J E.

At Ataini is a hot sulphur spring, an immense column of steam and hot
water being ejected from the vent about six times a day. These baths are fre-
(pientcd by the Japanese, and there is a small village of 200 or 300 houses.

ODAWARA BAT, or Sagami ura, from the lowness of the land at its
head, has sometimes been mistaken by strangers for Uraga Channel. AVhen
past Vrics Island, hoMcver, the channel will be recognised by Sn-no saki, its
East point of entrance, being comparatively high (015 ft.), whereas Cape
tSayami, the southern part of the peninsula of that name on the West side of
entrance, is not more than 70 ft. high, with the excei)tion of a small hill of 351
feet elevation on the centre of its South part, named Tree Saddle, from two
conspicuous clumps of large trees ou its summit. The liyhts will indicate it
by night.

Care nmst be observed when steering for Uraga Channel not to be drawn
into this bay, as a considerable indraught has always been eyporienced, and
the low land at the head, contrasted with the high land to the westward of it,
looks so distant, that the bay has often been mistaken for the channel, and tho
error only discovered when deeply embayed, and probably close to some of the

THE JAPANESE AliCIIIPELAGO.

■!1

I '}

• I

.•eefs which skirt the head and East side of the bay, the most dangerous of
whieh is Macedonian llcef.

Teno >ima, 220 ft. high, is the eastern extreme of the low shore fronting
the plain at the head of Odawara Bay, which is said to bo very shallow, nl'
though there is 1 17 fathoms at 3 miles distance. Uba sima, a large reef, marked
by a peaked rock 30 ft. high, lies 1 mile off the beach, 2 miles to the West of
Yeno sima, and a similar reef lies three-quarters of a mile farther N.W. Yeno
sima has bold high cliffs of a light colour, which makes it very conspicuous,
ond a flattish summit with a few large trees. On the S.E. it cannot be ap-
proached within three-quarters of a mile, as an extensive reef skirts that part
of the island. The island is connected with the main, where the Sagami Hills
terminate, by a narrow ridge of shingle, which covers at high water, to the
westward of which a small river disembogues. There is generally a heavy
ground swell at this part of the bay.

The white pointea cliffs of Kotzbomura M'ill be seen 2^ miles East of Y'eno
sima (the coast between being skirted by sunken reefs), and are a guide to the
only anchorage on the North side of Odawara Bay.

Horino-utsi-mnra. — The bay directly East of the white cliffs is full of reefs,
and cannot be approached, but Horino-utsi-i ura Bay, the bay next S.E., and to
the North of Impcrieuse Bluff, is a fair temporary anchorage, though exposed
to West and S.W. winds.

A reef, 3 cables long, extends from a low point at the foot of Impericusc
Bluff. To the N.W. of this, a chain of rocks runs out westward from the low
point just North of the bluff, their centre part being marked by a large whitc-
tojjpcd rock 20 ft. high ; the outer rock is very small, but uncovered. At 3
or 4 cables North of this chain there is anchorage in 4 to 8 fathoms. The Dove
and Leven anchored here, the rocks breaking the heavy swell from the South.
Macedonian Reef lies off the East side of Odawara Bay, at 4 miles N.N. W.
of Joka sima lighthouse. It dries in many places at low tide, and, except in
the smoothest water, always btlrays itself by a breaker when covered ; but if
it be not visible, do not bring the lighthouse to the southward of S.E. by S. ^ S.
until the South end of the first range of hills, 700 ft. high. North of Cape
Sagami, bears E. J N. The ranges of Sagami Peninsula terminate in Impc-
rieuse Bluff, 500 ft. high, wooded, and very conspicuous. The West slope of
the bluff N. by E. will lead three-quarters of a mile outside the reef.

ASINA BAT. — Vessels embarrassed in the vicinity of Macedonian Ilccf
may find an anchorage about 1 J mile N.E. of it in Asina Bay, in 4 to 8 fathoms,
good holding ground, and sheltered from all points except westward, but only
n case of extreme emergency would justify a stranger using it. There arc some
rocks off the North side of the bay, but they show, and arc easily avoided by
keeping mid-chnnnel.

Ko>ajiTO Bay. — There are two or three excellent havens for small craft and
I'unks on the West shore of Sagami Peninsula, to the southward of Maccdo-

GULF OF YEDO— TATEYAMA BAY.

S31

Jangcious of

tore fronting
shiiUow, n)«
reef, marked
tlio West of
N.W. Yeno
conspicuous,
innot be ap-
rts that part
Sagami Hills
rater, to the
ally a heavy

!ast of Ycno
guide to the

1 full of reefs,
tS.E.,audto
lugh exposed

f Imperieuso
from the low
large white-
crcd. At 3
IS. The Dove
1 the South,
ilcs N.N.W.
d, except in
crcd ; but if
E. by S. i S.
rth of Capo
Uc in Iinpv-
est slope of
ef.

donian llccf
to 8 fathoms,
rd, but only
ere arc some
avoided by

ill craft and
of Maccdo-

ninn Reef. Ko-ajiro, the largest of these, is 2 miles North of Joka sima light-
house, or three-quarters of a mile N.K. of the Moioisi, a long reef of rocks,
which extend off the point N. by W. J W. of the lighthouse. There is no
difficulty in entering. A reef stretches off the North point of entrance, half-
way across the entrance, with a 4-fathoms channel on tho bold South shore.
Farther in a peroh marks the end of the shoal from the South shore. Inside
this is secure anchorage in 3 fathoms.

Lighthonse. — Jolia sima is 1 milo long, and skirted with reefs. On its
West end is a white lighthouse, 25 ft. high, showing a ,/f j«/ </reen light,
elevated 106 ft., and visible 9 miles. It is not visible when bearing westward
of N.W. 3 W.

Awa Peninsula, although mountainous, is less so than Idsu, and ])osse3scs
much larger tracts of arable land, all of which is carefully cultivated. Its
West coast ii more sinuous than tho opposite shore of Yedo Gulf, but only one
of the bays, Talei/ama, formed in it, affords fair anchorage.

NOSIMA SAKI and LIOHTHOUSE.— Nosima saki, the southern extremity
of Awa Peninsula, is low, and at 2 miles East of it dangerous shoals extend
about li mile from the shore. On Nosima saki is a white lighthouse, 99 ft.
high, deserving of especial notice as being one of tho first of its kind erected
on European principles in Japan. It shows a ^jrcrf i;/(//</ light, elevated 133
feet, ond visible 17 miles seaward between E. by N. J N. and W. ^ N.

Mela Head, 450 ft. high, is 3} miles eastward of the lighthouse, the coast
between being skirted with rocks. Tho dangerous Mela Leihje lies 1 J mile off
it, and is marked by heavy breakers in a swell.

STJ-NO SAKI, on the East side of the entrance of Uraga Channel, 5 miles
N.W. of Mela Head, when seen from the southward appears as n block of small
hills, rather conical in profile, the highest, Ilazama, being elovated G4'> ft. Tho
point is low, with the exception of a small elevation, at tho N.W. corner, on
which is an old fort. There is a heavy tide-rip off it, but no dangers at a greater
distance than half a mile from the shore.

TATEYAM * '^ AY.— The coast from Su-no saki doubles back abruptly to
the eastward 4 cr 5 miles before taking its northerly trend, forming, with
Daibo sahi, the point next North of Su-no saki, the Bay of Tatoyama, in which
shelter and good holding ground may be found in southerly and easterly gales,
but it is quite exposed to the westward.

The best anchorage is in about 7 fathoms, a quartw of a mile eastward of
Taka sima, the easternmost of tho two small wooded islands on the South side,
with the West extreme of Daibo saki N.W. by N. J N., and Sim yama, a hill
290 ft. high, S.E. by S. i S. This hill is the North extreme of some rising
ground in the S.E. corner of the bay. This position is well sheltered from
North, round East, to W. by S., but should there be any appearance of the
wind veering westward, an early departure is recommended, as a heavy sea
quickly tumbles in.

832

THE JAPANKSE AEC'IIirELAGO.

The Actaon obtuincd fisli, fowls in smuU quantities, and water, from a village
at tbo base of Siro yania.

Numerous small off-lying rocks stud tho const from Su-no snki as fur north<
ward as Kanayn Point, tbo outer of wbicb is Ghihu-isi or Black Rock, about
20 ft. bigh, lying N. by W., 1^ mile, from Daibo Point, and a mile off sbore;
near it arc several small rocks wbich only uncover at low water. Most of these
rocks sbow above water, and no danger is at present known to be a greater
distance than a mile off shore. Kanaka Point bears nearly East of tho Tree
Saddle on Sagami Peninsula, and is at the termination of the sharp well-defined
ridge of the Miogani yama, a fine dome-shaped mountain, elevated 1,U96 ft.
To tho northward of these hills the country (Kadsusn) becomes much lower,
and a few miles north-eastward of Futsu saki, tho point off which Saratoga
Spit extends, it becomes an uninteresting dead flat, encircling tho head of
Yedo IJay.

DIBECIIONS, — In navigating tho south-eastern coast of Japan, after pass-
ing Satano misuki, in Van Dioinen Strait, if the weather be thick, the vessel's
position should bo well ascertained before she is hauled to tho E.N.E., as her
course is parallel to the high land for about 20 miles from tho pitch of the
cape. It should also bo borne in mind that the Kuro siwo current on this
coast runs to the E.N.E. at tho rate of from 40 to 100 miles a day ; it may,
however, bo entirely checked for twenty-four hours by n N.E. wind, when it
may bo again expected to resume its former course, and possibly run with
greater ropidity than usual for one or two days.

Vessels, therefore, bound to the eastward must allow for this current, and
should keep not more than 30 miles off shore, so as to be enabled, if necessary,
to verify their reckoning by sighting the land,* as also to avoid being set to tho
southward, as is sometimes the case when approaching Capo Idsu, and with
light winds it is ditticult to regain the coast. In the summer season the north-
easterly current is not to be expected in the vicinity of Cape Idsu.

Vessels from tho Gulf of Yedo bound for Kii Channel, after passing Ilock
Island, should take an in-sbore passage, steering for Omai saki, and thence for
Oi) simn, thus avoiding the strength of the Japan Stream.

In approaching the Gulf of Yedo, tho remarkable high mountain Fusi ynmn,
a lofty and symmetrical truncated cone of 12,450 ft. elevation, and so different
in form from any other land in its vicinity, cannot ftiil to be of great service in
directing vessels either to Simoda or Yedo. In clear weather it is tho first
distant land seen, and generally to the north-eastward, visible at times upwards
of 100 miles. Iro-o saki, or Cape Idsu, is in line with it when bearing North.
When bound from the southward and westward endeavour to make Capo Idsu,
nnd if tne weather is at all clear, the chain of islands off the Gulf of Yedo will

* It is recommended to make Siwo misaki, tho East poiat of culritnco to Kii Ch:knncl,
whonovcr praclioaUo.

GULF OP YEDO— URAGA CHANNEL.

833

from a villngo

i as fur north*
Rock, about
le off shore }
Most of these
be a greater
of the Tree
► well-defined
ted 1,096 ft.
much lower,
it'll Saratoga
the head of

I, after pass-
. the vessel's
'J^.K., as her
pitch of the
■cnt on this
»y ; it may,
id, when it
y run with

urrcnt, and
■ necessary,
J sot to the
, and with
the north.

ssing Rock
thence for

Fusi ynraa,
io different

service in
8 the first
Js upwards
ing North,
-ape Idsu,

Yedo will

ii Chunnol,

at the same time be plainly visible. Omai saki, the West point of entrance to
Suruga Gulf, cannot bo mistaken for Cape Idsu, the former being low, with a
sandy beach and low sand-hills, with occasional patches of trees ; whereas the
cape is high and rocky, and its summit generally hidden in the clouds. Rock
Island being low, unless the weather is clear, will not be seen until long after
this cape and Yries Island are made. By night the lights form good guides.

Between Kii Channel and Rock Island westerly winds are most frequently
met with, falling light when the latter place is passed ; and often on rounding
Cape Sagami a strong N.E. wind is encountered.

UBAOA CHANNEL, connecting the gulf with the bay of Yedo, is remark-
ably clear of hidden danger. On its West side, about 1 mile off shore, lie
Ashika sima or Plymouth Rocks, always uncovered, and easily seen ; close to
them is a sunken rock, and in their vicinity, off Scnda saki and Uraga, are
several rocky patches extending some distance from the shore. The mariner
should bear this in mind, and as Kancda Bay has also some foul ground in it
at nearly a mile from the shore, it would be prudent to give this locality a good
berth in passing.

LIOHTHOUSE, — Sagami misaki, the western cape at the entrance to Uraga
Channel, was described on page 829. A 4J-fathonis patch lies 7 cables S.E.
of the North extreme. On Tsurugi saki, its S.E. point, stands a white tower,
37 ft. high, showing a flashing light every 10 seconds, elevated 110 ft, and
visible 16 miles. The light is bright seaward between W. by S. and N.E. ^E.,
and red over Plymouth Rocks between N.E. J E. and N.E. by N. J N.

Kaneda Bay, between Sngami misaki and Senda saki, is 4 miles wide, and
affords excellent anchorage with winds from South, round by West and North,
to N.E., in 10 to 3 fathoms, sand, good holding ground. Oki-no sima, 3 ft.
above high water, is a black rock in the S.W. portion of the bay, with foul
ground between it and the shore. Mits iso, a cluster of rocks three-quarters
of a mile from the northern shore of the bay, cover at high water. A 6-ft.
shoal lies W. by S. ^ S. 7 cables from the southern of these rooks, and another
of 9 ft. lies W. by S. i S., nearly 1 mile from the same rock. These dangers
necessitate great caution when anchoring.

Ashika sima, or Plymouth Rocks, are two dark rocks 5 ft. above high water,
lying N.E. i N., 5J miles, from Sagami misaki, and S. by W. J W., 3|- miles,
from Kuwan-on saki lighthouse. Kata sima, awash, lies S.E. by I<]. \ E.,
n; nrly 1 cable, from the eastern rock, and was marked by a red beacon.

Senda saki shows in steep white cliffs, the termination of the range from
Take yania. It has a dismantled fort at the summit of the cliffs, and is sur-
rounded by detached rocks, the eastern portion projecting out in a spit, the
outer eogc, of 21 ft., lying E. by S. J S., t> cables, from the point, leaving only
a passage of 3 cables between " ■•. and Ashika sima. The outer detached rock,
awash, lies S.S.W., 9^ cables, from Sendu saki.

North Pacifle, 6 o

834

THE JAPANESE ARCHIPELAGO.

Kurihama, the bay North of Scnda saki, is foul, and has a sandy ^eaoh at
its head, the end of a long plain which is drained by a river running into a
lagoon. Kadiuta taki, the North point of this bay, is terminated by a conical
mound, Shtndora, 69 ft. high, from which a ledge of rocks extends S.E. ^ S.,
4^ cables. From this to Tomio saki the ground is foul nearly 4 cables off shore.

Uraga,* a thriving village, and clearance port of the junk trade to Tokio
(Yedo), has a good harbour for vessels drawing less than 9 ft. Tomio laki, the
South point of entrance, is low, with a Japanese lighthouse and a memorial
stone near its extreme, which, when in line, lead clear of Ka yama or Elmstone
Rock, o dangerous 12- ft. rock, lying nearly 1 mile S. by W. J W. from Kuwan-
on saki lighthouse. A 12-ft. shoal ties E. \ S., 3 cables from the light, and
there is less than 3 fathoms ut 150 yards S.E. from it.

Mioj'in aakit the North point, is a bold bluff, surmounted by a battery. From
it to Kuwan-on saki the land is undulating, with villages in sandy bays. The
whole of this coast is foul for half a mile from the shore. Ashika sima kept
bearing S.W. by S. ^ S., until Kuwan-on saki light bears N.N.W., will lead
clear eastward of Ka yama.

LIOHTHOUSE, — Kmoan-on saki, or Kanon taki, is a steep headland, over
which is a conical hill 272 ft. high. On the slope of this hill is a square white
lighthouse, 51 ft. high, showing a. fixed bright light, elevated 178 ft., and visible
14 miles. A rtd ray is shown from the same lantern between South and S. by
W. i W. over Plymouth Kocks. Also from a window, 32 ft. below, a fixed
red light, visible 7 miles, is shown between N. ^ W. and N.N.E. over Sara-
toga Spit.

YEDO BAY is about 28 miles deep in a N.E. and S.W. direction, 20 miles
wide at its broadest part, with excellent holding ground, and capable of shel-
tering the fleets of the world. A careful attention to the lead will give warn-
ing of the approach to the margin of the bank of fine sand which skirts its
shores.

From Kuwan-on saki lighthouse to Rubicon Point, a mile distant, the coast is
slightly indented, having sandy bays between the points. Eocks extend 1 cable
off Rubicon Point. 0-tsu-no ura is a deep bay with a sandy beach, having
numerous villogcs. There is shallow water in its eastern portion, the outer
Bhool of 12 ft. lying N.W. by W. ^ W., 8f cables from Rubicon Point. In
the centre of the bay is a shoal, 4^ cables long nnd 3 cables broad, having 9
feet on the North and 13 ft. on the South edge, with depths of 2^ to 4^
fathoms between. The North edge lies S. ^ E., 4 cables from Saru sima.

Saru sima, or Perry Island, 198 ft. high, is cliffy, with a wooded flat sum-

* Vraga or Heception Bay is remarkable as the place whore the American Bqiiadron first
had communication with the envoys of the Japanese Emperor, July 14, 1863, which led to
the treaties opening the country to foreign commerce, (boo Narrative of tho American
Squadron, under Commodore M. C. Perry, XJ.S.N., 1866, pp. 266—303).

YEDO BAY-YOKOSKA IIARBOUll.

835

mit, nnd hns slioni \ratcr all round it. Kitsne no te, E. by S. ^ S., S} cables
from tliu South point, is a rock, covering at high water, nnd West, 3 cables
from the same, lio three rocks, awash at high water. Between these rocky
patches there is shallow water. No vessel should attempt to pass between
Hnna-reto and Saru sima.

Ilana-rete, 94 ft. high, to the N.W. of Saru simn, is a green conical mound,
sloping down to dark rugged rocks. Between it and the western end of
O-tsu-no ura the coast is composed of a scries of white cliiTs, with shingly
beaches intervening. Ko-naga ura. South of Ilnna-rete, is a deep bay, off the
South point of which is a conical islet 78 ft. high, 3^ cables S.K. by S. ^ S.
from which lies a rock, dry at low water, with foul ground between it nnd the
shore. A rock, awash at low water, with a red beacon on it surmounted by n
cnge, lies N.E. by K., 3j^ cables from Katshiriki, the North point of the bay.
^\<8scls should not attempt to pass inside it.

TOKOSEA HABBOUB, over 1 mile in depth, with a general breadth of 3^
cables, is the eastern of two large inlets, and may be easily recognised by lla
sima, 144 ft. high, off its N.E. point, nnd by a remarkable clump of trees, 365
fuct above the sea, known as Azuma, on the highest hill of the promontory
8cpc<rating it from F'ka ura, the western bny. The shores arc a series of clilFs
and indentations, the pomts generally being marked by white stone beacons.
At its head is the principal dockyard and arsenal in Japan ; here are two docks,
with all the necessary works for repairing and building ships and engines, the
houses for the officials being situated on a plain that joins O-tsu-no urn. On
one of the factories Is a clock-towcr, visible from that bay. The inner part of
the harbour is formed by two breakwaters.

Docks.— The South dock is 377 ft. long, 72 ft. broad, with a depth of 22J ft.
on the sill at spring tides. The North dock is 288^ ft. long, Goj ft. broad, and
has 17 ft. water on the sill. From the outer anchorage the turn into the docks
is rather abrupt. A new dock of considerable length, capable of taking vessels
drawing 25 ft., was to be completed during 1884. There are also two building
slips, for vessels of about 800 tons.

A red beacon buoy marks the northern edge of a 9-ft. patch, midway between
Katshiriki Point and Ha sima, and 3^ cables from the shore. Off the eastern
points of Yokoska there arc spits, having 10 to 12 ft. on their outer edges;
those off Eyi yama Point extending N.N.E., 2 J cables, ond N.W. i W., IJ
cable. The outer end of the latter is marked by a small red cask buoy, and a
breakwater, to be 600 ft. long, is being built from the point in the direction
of the buoy. Vessels should not bring Ha sima to bear northward of N.E. by N.

Anchorage may be obtained in 6 to 8 fathoms in any part of the bay, but
large vessels should not go inside the outer red buoy, as there the anchorage
space is only 2 cables broad. Boats may pass through the canal to F'ka ura.

Tides. — It is high water in Yokoska Barbour, on full and change, at 5** IS";
springs rise 8 ft., neaps 4 ft.

830

THE JAPANESE ARCHIPELAGO.

I 4

F'ka ora, an inlct 8 cables long, and 4 to 2 cabled wide at the entrance,
opening out to over 6 cables wide at its head, affords good anchorage in 7 to
4| fathoms, mud, the water shoaling gradually, but the head shoals rapidly at
1^ cable from the shore. Shoals extend 1^ cable od ^ko taki, its eastern
entrance point, and a reef lies 1^ cable off the western point. Yenokido is a
deep inlet on the western shore, a good harbour for junks, but with too narrow
an entrance for ships.

Natan sima is a partially wooded island, 184 ft. high, lying between F'ka
ura and the entrance to Kanatawa Inlet. A shoal spit extends 7 cables East
of it. Yeboshi yama is a conical rocky islet, joined to the shore at low water,
1 cable from the S.W. point of Natsu sima. Westward of Natsu sitna a creek
winds round in a northerly direction, and opens into a large shallow Ingoon, in
which a narrow channel, marked by stakes and bushes, leads up to the village
of Kanasaiva, in the N.E. corner. From this village there is a good road,
through a remarkable narrow pass, to the town of Kamakura, formerly an
opulent town, and famous for its ancient temples. About 2 or 3 miles from
Kamakura is the celebrated colossal bronze statue of Daibutsu sama.

From Natsu sima the coast takes a northerly direction for 3 miles to Graham
Bluff; it is shallow for some distance off, and at 2 miles off is skirted by de-
tached mud banks of 3^ and 4^ to 5 fathoms. A patch of 1|^ fathom lies 1 mile
N.E. by E. from Graham Bluff.

Mississippi Bay (NighiJ, between Graham Bluff and Treaty Point, 3 miles
to the N.E., is well sheltered from the prevailing winds. In anchoring, give
the shore a wide berth, to avoid a shoal extending half to three-quarters of a
mile from it.

Treaty Point, or Homuku, the termination of a ridge of low hills extending
into the Bay of Yedo, about lOJ miles N.N.W. of Kuwan-on saki, forms the
southern point of the Bay of Yokohama. It is formed of a long line of con-
spicuous yellow clifTs, 100 to 120 ft. high, the northern bluff of which is Man-
darin Bluff, or the Haycock. These bluffs, ond a bank which fronts them to
the distance of 1^ mile in some places, protects the anchorage off Yokohama
from south-easterly winds, which send in a heavy sea. A red buoy, bearing a
cage, is moored in 4^ fathoms on the northern extreme of the shoal, southward
of the anchorage, with Mandarin Bluff bearing S. by E., and the centre of
Konngawa Fort, N.W. i N.

A LIOHTVESSEL, painted red, with two masts, and a red ball at the fore-
mast head, is moored in 10 fathoms at the extremity of the shoal off Treaty
Point and Mandarin Bluff, with Treaty Point bearing S.W. i S. ; Mandarin
Bluff, S.W. by W. ; ond the mouth of the canal, just northward of the English
naval stores, W. J N. The vessel exhibits ajixed red light, elevated 36 ft., and
visible 10 miles.

Fog Signal. — In foggy weother a Bell is sounded ^t;0 times in quick succes*
sion at intervals not exceeding yfve minutei.

'im

YEDO BAY— YOKOHAMA— KANAGAWA.

837

le entrance,
rngc in 7 to
Is rapidly at

its eastern
mokido is a

too narrow

twcen F'ka
cables East
low water,
iiim a creek
V Ingoon, in
I the villngc
good road,
rormerly an
miles from
t.

to Graham
rted by de-
1 lies 1 mile

)int, 3 miles
oring, give
ortcrs of a

extending
forms the
ine of con-
ch is Man-
ia them to
Yokohama
bearing a
southward
! centre of

it the fore-
off Treaty
Mandarin
le English
36 ft., and

ck succes*

YOKOHAMA, the most important of the ports open to foreign commerce,
is built on a plain surrounded by low hills, and is environed by a canal. Its
inhabitants number about 1 20,000, with about 1 ,300 Europeans and Americans ;
the latter occupy the S.E. part of the town. Two hatobas, or stone piers,
afford excellent landing, the northern, the English hatoba, affording complete
shelter for boats, and immediately opposite it is the English Consulate, with
three peculiar towers. The English Naval Hospital is on the bluff where the
camp formerly was ; the old hospital, at the southern end of the town, has bnen
converted into naval victualling stores ; the observation spot in the square is
in lat. 35° 26' 23" N., long. 139" 39' 13' E., the latter determined telegraphi-
cally in 1881-2 by U.S. officers. Yokohama is connected by railway with Tokio
(Ycdo), the terminus being on the N.W. side of the town. There is regu'ir
steam communication with San Francisco, Shanghai, and Hong Kong, and also
with the chief Japanese ports. From Tokio a railway runs to Takasaki, in
the interior, and from thence it is proposed to construct a line to Lake Biwa,
thus completing railway communication with Osaka and Iliogo.

A fxed red light, visible 6 miles, is shown firom a white staff on the extremity
of the English hatoba.

All supplies, provisions, water, coal, &o., can be procured in abundance, and
ordinary repairs both to ships and engines are easily executed.

Yokohama exports tea, silk, lacquered goods, vegetable wax, oil, an'.ers,
cotton, and rice in small quantities. For the Chinese market, paper, camphor,
flour, peas, beans, seaweed, isinglass, bdche-de-mer, and dried shell-fish. The
imports nre chiefly cotton and woollen goods, metals, and kerosene. The greater
part of the exports are sent to the United States. In 1883, 313 foreign vessels,
with n total tonnage of 556,024, entered the port, of which 172, with a tonnage
of 339,618, were British. The value of the imports in the same year amounted
to £3,878,877, and the exports to £5,352,336.

Eanagawa. — At the head of the bay and on its North side stands the town
of Kanagawa, one of the first ports opened to foreigners, but this being an in-
convenient sitiuition for a settlement it was changed to Yokohama on the South
side, where the water is deeper for anchorage and more convenient for the
landing of boats and merchandise ; at Kanagawa it is so shallow that at low
tide the sea retreats to n considerable distance from the shore. Kanagawa is
subject to frequent shocks of earthquake. It is situated on the Tokaido or
imperial highway to Tokio, and British subjects are free to go where they
please within 21 miles of it, except towards Tokio, the boundary in that direc-
tion being the Biver Logo. All persons, excepting officers in uniform, passing
by road between Yokohama and Tokio, must produce a passport at the river.*

* The limiti of the Treaty Port Kanagnwa to the North lies along the coarse of the Logo
Itiver, which, after pursuing an easterly direction, enters the Spa midway between YcJo
and Yokohama. At 26 miles above the mouth of this rivor tho treaty boundary leaves the

838

THE JAPANESE ARCHIPELAGO.

A red buoy, bearing a cage, is moored in 4 fathoms on the point of the spit
extending from Kanagawa Fort towards Yokohama anchorage ; it lies 8.E. j K.,
1 mile from the fort.

Anchorage. — A good anchorage for large vessels is in about 6 fathoms, mud,
with Kuwan-on saki just open of Mandarin Ululf, the latter bearing 8. by E.,
and the British Consulate S.W. by W. i W. ^'cssels of lighter draught may
onohor much nearer the town. Large vessels are recommended to moor.

Titlet. — It is high water in Yokohama Bay, on full and change, at G** ; springs
rise 6| ft., neaps 4} ft. ; with southerly winds the tide rises about '2 ft. higlier.
The streams are seorcely felt here, but they run strong in the middle of Yudo
Bay, and their velocity is much increased off Saratoga Spit, Saru sima, and
Kuwan-on saki, particularly off the latter.

Xawa saki, or Ilaneda Point, bearing N.E. ^ N. from Treaty Point light*
vessel, is low and wooded, and has a beacon on it; shoal water extends If mile
from the shore, around and between it and Yokohama, the edge being marked
by a lighthouse and a buoy. The latter is red, with a cage, moored in ('
fathoms, with Treaty Point bearing S.W. ^ W. ; Kawa saki, N. ^ W. ; ani
fiansu hana, E.S.E., southerly.

LIOHTHOUSE.— On the edge of the shoal off Haneda Point, in 7 ft. wntci-,
is a screw-pile lighthouse, 53 ft. high, painted in black and white bands. It
shows a fixed green light, elevated 40 ft., and visible 8 miles between N.W. by
N. } N. and S.W. by W. J W.

TOKIO, formerly known as Tedo,* the capital of the Japanese empire, is
situated at the N.W. part of Ycdo Bay, along the shore of which it extends,
with its suburbs, for 8 miles. The population, in 1882, amounted to 974,081.
Its aspect is not imposing from seaward, as large stacks of timber and elevated
ground conceal by far the larger part of the city. Five batteries aleo interpose
between the anchorage and the city. These, with several others on the shore,
have green turfed parapets and escarps faced with stone, and are surrounded by
a piling of timber which is covered at high water. The suburb of Shinagawa
lies to the South of the city, where are seen the low wooded heights of Goten
yama, extending 2 miles along the shore. The landing place is about H milo
up the western mouth of the Sumida gawa, and near the railway station, close
to which is Tsukiji (he Foreign *' Concession," and the Imperial Navy Depart-
ment. The British Legation is 2 miles from the landing place, West of the
Tycoon's Castle.

river and pursues a southerly direction to the coast, which it Joins just eastward of Odiwara,
in long. 139* 10' £. The southern boundary line runs from 0-tsu-no ura on tho East to
Asina Bay on the Weit. The territory open to foreigners is thus about 26 miles square.

• On the restoration of tho Mikado government, in 1868, the old name of Tedo was
changed to Tukio, meaning tho Eastern Cnpitul, in distinction from Kioto, or the Western
Capital.

'Uikw

oint of the spU
it lict S.E. j I'].,

fathoms, mud,
iring 8. by K.,

cr draught mny

d to moor.

c, at C" ; gpringf)
ut 2 ft. higlicr.

niddio of Yodo

Sai-u sima, and

»ty Point light-
extends l^milo
;o being marked
e, moored in <
,N. i W.; an.

t, in 7 ft. water,
rhito bands. It
L>twcen N.W, by

ancse empire, is
hich it extends,
nted to 974,081.
ber and elevated
cs alco interpose
2rs on the shore,
e surrounded by
b of Shinagawa
leights of Goten
is about 1^ mile
ay station, close
il Navy Depart-
!e, West of the

itwardofOdiwara,
ra on tbo East to
6 milea square,
lame of Yedo was
o, or the Weatem

YEDO DAY— TOKIO.

The sinnll river Sumiila gawa, which flows through the centre of Tokio,
splits into two streams, flowing southward for about 2 miles through the ex.
tensive mud-flats which nearly fill up the head of tbo bay fronting the city ;
boats and small junks can use these channels.

Light. — On the West side of the fort, at the entrance to the western or
Tsukiji Channel, ajixtd rtd light is shown, elevated 62 ft., and visible miles
between E.S.E. and N. by K. } K.

The bay fronting the city is very shoal, a bank of loss than 3 fathoms water
on it extending from 2 to 3 miles from tlic shore, and in some parts even a
ship's boat could not approach the shoro within a mile at low water. The best
anchorage for a large vessel is in 5 to G fathoms, soft mud, good holding ground,
with the white lighthouse on the middle fort bearing N.W. I N., distant 3 j
miles ; smaller vessels may anchor nearer the fort on tho same bearing, but nt
2 miles from tho fort tho depths shual suddenly from 3^ to 2 fathoms.

The Coast from Tone gawn Point round tho head of Yedo Bay is low, with
shoal water extending a considerable distance off it, nnd forms » deep bay with
7 to 13 fathoms. Bamhu hana, about 8 miles S.K. from Kuwa saki, is low,
and from hence the low coast trends in a southerly and south-westerly direction
fou* 1 2 miles, and is si il from 1 i^ to 2 miles off shore.

Fatsu saki is a low sandy point, having a fort at its high-water line, 8 miles
S.W. from Band/u h na. From its extreme, sands, which dry at low water,
stretch out in a narro<v ton(^uo H mllo to the westward, forming tho dangerous
Saratoga Spit ; and shoal water extends still farther westward, its outer ex-
treme being 3 miles from tho point. A red buog, bearing a cage, is moored in
fathoms. West of this tongue. To clear this shoal, Kuwan-on suki lighthouse
should not be brought to bear westward of S. J E.

From Futsu saki the coast takes an easterly and southerly direction, forming
a deep bay, the northern shore of which is snndy and low, but the southern is
the termination of the slopes from tho high range Noko-ghcri yama, and is
rocky and stecp-to. Shoal water extends from 1 J to 2 miles from the shoro in
the centre of the bay. Kanaya Point, and the coast to tho southward ia de-
scribed on pages 831-2.

DIEECTIONS.— Approaching the Gulf of Yedo from the southward or west-
ward, in clear weather, tho chain of islands running southward from it are un-
mistakable landmarks, and Cape Idsu can scarcely be mistaken. Omai saki,
the point 25 miles westward of the cape, is low, while the cape, m before
stated, is high, bold, and rocky. From IJ mile eastward of Bock Island a
N.E. i E. course will lead 4 miles N.W. of Vries Island, from which position
tho centre of the entrance of Uraga Channel bears N.E. by E., distant 22 miles.
Care must, however, be observed, when approaching Cape Sagami, not to bo
drawn into Odawara Bay by the indraught mentioned in page 829. Should
Yrics Island be visible, this danger is easily guarded against by not bringing
that island southward of S.W. by S,

840

THE JAPANESE ARCHIPELAGO.

Vessels approaching the gulf from the eautward are recommended not to hug
the shvie of the South end of Awp too closely, to avoid the dangerous shoala
eastward of No-sima Point. By night the light on No-sima will be an efficient
guide, but care must be taken of the extremely dangerous Mela Ledge. To
avoid this and all other known danger, when rounding from the eastward, do
not bring the eastern extreme of land seen to bear eastward of E.N.E. until
Tr"e Saddle Hill is seen open of the extreme of Su-no saki, bearing N. by
\V. i W. ; and, when rounding from the westward, do not shut in this hill
with the extreme of Su-no saki until the eastern extreme of laud bears E.N.E.
At night, should the light not be seen in thick weather, soundings of 40 fathoms
may be considered as indicating close proximity to these dangers.

In steering for Urcga Channel, Tree Saddle Hill on the South end of Sagami
Peninsula will be readily recognised ; and on aearing the channel the Ashika
sima or Plymouth Socks m\l be plainly seen on its western side. Give these
rocks nnd the Ka yama or Elmstonc Hock a berth of half a mile in passing, or
at night keep without the red sectors of the lights, and after rounding Kanon
saki at about the same distance steer N. by W. J W , which will lead between
Saratoga Spit and Saru sima. In thick weather, with a strong ebb tide run-
ning, bo careful not to be set eastward of the Saratoga Spit buoy. Continue
this course until Treaty Point Hghtvessel is seen, when steer to pass eastward
of her, taking care not to bring the light to bear northward of N. i W. The
elevated ground about Mandarin Bluff, showing to seaward in brown cliSs,
well wooded to the summit, will be readily recognised, the bluff being the mudt
eastern.

The lightvessel may be passed within a cable, and then steer to pass north-
ward of the red buoy, and anchor as convenient, the depths gradually de-
creasing as the anchorage is approached. Do not shoal to less than 7 fathoms
when rounding Treaty Point and Mandarin Bluff, neither of which shoiUd be
approached to a less distance than 1^ mile.

A sailing ship will have to make short tacks when working into Yokohama
Bay with a westerly wind, as North of Mandarin Bluff the deep-water channel
is narrowed to H mile; the lead here, however, as round nearly the whole
shores of Yedo Bay, gives fair warning.

If proceeding from Yokohama to Yedo anchorage, stand out Tj. by N. till
the house in the tree clump (of which the roof only is generally seen) of Kawa
saki bears N.N.E., when haul up N.E. or N.E. i E. along the shore, which is
skirted by a shallow reef nearly IJ mile broad, and very steep at the edge,
passing well eastward of the buoy and lighthouse, and taking care not to de-
crease the s undings under 9 fathoms till the lighthouse bears West, distant 1
mile. Then haul up North, and anchor in 6 fathoms with i;he southern part
of the wooded heights of Goten yama bearing West, and the lightuouse on the
middle one of the five forts N.W. f N., oi steer in upon the latter bearing, and
anchor in any convenient depth, as above.

GO.

eoommended not to hug
id the dangerous shoals
-sima will be an efficient
erous Mela Ledge. To

from the eastward, do
stward of E.N.E. until
no saki, bearing N. by
[o not shut in this hill
ne of land bears E.N.E.

soundings of 40 fathoms
se dangers.

the South end of Sagami
the channel the Ashika
jstern side. Give these
alf a mile in passing, or
I after rounding Kanon
ivhich will lead between
1 a strong ebb tide run-
i Spit buoy. Continue

steer to pass eastward
ward of N. i W. The
eaward in brown cliffs,
the bluff being the modt

ben steer to pass north-
,0 depths gradually de-
d to less than 7 fathoms
ler of which should be

rorking into Yokohama
the deep-water channel
ound nearly the whole

tand out Vu by N. till
jenerally seen) of Kawa
ong the shore, which is
irery steep at the edge,
taking care not to de-
;e bears West, distant 1
with the soutliern part
id the lighluouse on the
n the latter bearing, and

DIUECTIOXS— YEDO BAY.

811

W' ' 'ing through Uraga Channel. — With a northerly wind a vessel, after
passing Cape Sagami, may stand across and tack close to the oppostUc shore,
as there are no rocks at any distance off it to the northward of Kanaya Point,
and to the southward of the point the dangers show. If unable to fetch this
point, it would not be prudent to stand into the b.>y bctn-een the point and
Uki sima, a rocky islet 150 ft. high to the southward, as foul ground exists
there. This bay will be readily recognised from a distaucc, s it is the sen-
shore of a valley between the Miogani yama and Svcno yama ranges, and two
small hills are in the centre of it.

In making the western board, the foul ground in Kancda Bjiy, and off the
coast thence to Ku\van-on snki, must be remembered. The s'lore of Kadsusa
I'ay, northward of the Miogani yama range, may be approached by the lead,
tacking in 5 fathoms.

If unable to fetch Kuwan-on saki on the starboard tack, be careful to tack
short of the bearing for clearing the Ka yama, page 834. Short tacks should
be made when to windward of Kuwan-on saki, not shoaling towards the oppo-
site or Kadsusa shore to less than 9 fathoms. When Saru sima bears W. by S.,
stand no farther eastward than to brinjf Kuwan-on saki to bear S. i E., until
Saru sima is S.W. ^ W., when Saratoga Spit will have been weathered. At
night do not bring the light off Treaty I'oint to bear West of N. by W. ^ W.,
until Kuwan-on saki light bears S. ^ E. Long boards may now be again made,
but do not shoal on cither lack to less than 5 fathoms, nor off Yokohama Bluff
to less than 7 fathoms. There ure sonie shoal patches of 3 J to 5 fathoms, sand
and mud, off the western side o?. tho bay between Saru sima and Mississippi
Bay, but none arc known at a greater distance off than 2 miles, and they may
be avoided by not bringing Saru sima to bear eastward of South.

The Tides are much affected by the winds, but both flood and ebb swoep
with great velocity round Saratoga Spit. The flood runs N.W. by W., and
the ebb S.W. by S., about 3J knots nn hour at springs. Generally the flood
stream sets a vessel on to the western shore.

VOLCANIC ISLETS, SOUTH-EAST OF JAPAN.

A very remarkable range of dotached Islets and rocks extends for about 300
miles in a S. by E. direction from Vries Island, at the entrance of the Gulf of
Yedo. There is no portion of the ocean which has been more misrepresented
than this in our older works, and the great number of supposed discoveries
rendered the charts so confused that no adequate idea could be gained of their
number or arrangement. The author endeavoured, in 1858, to reconcile these
vague surmises and great discrepancies, so as to give a more correct represent
tation of their real character.*

* So3 Tfansactions of tho UriUah Association, 185d.
North i'acific.

,1 I ' '

liii

li!! I

842

niE JAPANESE ARCHIPELAGO.

This geographical confusion arose, no doubt, from the unsuspected influence
of the great Japanese current, which rushes through the group with exagger-
ated and uncertain velocity, and thus affecting the dead reckoing of many or
most of the ships which announced discoveries, ~nost of which are to the east-
ward of the true positions. It will be unnecessory to discuss these varying
accounts, since they are now in a great measure rcco'.icilcd by exact observa-
tions ; and this is of the greatest importance, seeing that the large commerce
between China, Japan, and North-Western America, passes through these
channels. What follows will, therefore, be confined to a brief description of
whnt is well ascertained, connected with an identification, when possible, with
what has been but vaguely sui-mised.

These islands arc all bold-to, some appearing to rise like a wall from thr
depths of the ocean, and they have but few outlying hidden dangers. '1%^
lead, therefore, in foggy weather, will give little or no warning, as in jme
cases no soundings will bo obtained with 150 fathoms of line within half a mile
of the shore.

7'he Currents, also, in thia part of the Japan Streuxn, are influenced by the
prevailing winds ; heavy current-rips, being of very com;non occurrence, have
often been mistaken for shoals. These rips are more constantly met with close
to the islands and rocks than otherwise. It may be well to bear in mind that
in calms, althoiigh the stream may appear to be hurrying the vessel on to an
island, if the island be steep it will always turn to the right or left on approach-
ing within a certain distance of the rocks ; not so, however, should shallow
water extend any distance, when the anchor must be depended on.

The usual set of the current through tliese islands is north-easterly, and the
rate ranges from 1 J to 3 knots, but the islands frequently deflect it from its
course, and the eddies always found on the margin of great currents are here
particularly numerous and active. Close to Fatsizio and Vries Islands, at less
than a third of a mile off", a regular change of tii .1 stream \a.s been observed,
and also between these islands and the coast.

As above stated, in their vicinity, in fact throughout the path of the Japan
current from the South end of Formosa to Pehring Strait, constant heavy tide-
rips will be encountered, which, in light winds, frequently render a vessel for
a time unmanageable. (See note on page 82G).

00 SIHA, or Vries Island, is the northernmost of these islands. It is au
active volcano, and Krusenstein applied the name of Vries Island to it, to
distinguish it from that to the south-westward. On Von Siebold's chart it is
called Barneveld Island. Its S.E. point is in lat. 34° 40' N., long. 139= 25f E.;
its N.W. point is a blufl", 350 ft. high. The island is oval shaped, about 9
miles in extent N.W. by N. i N. and S.E. by S. J S., and 5 miles wide, and
its summit, Mihara, attains an elevation of 2,550 ft. Miliara is an active vol-
cano, over which a white vapour cloud is generally floating, and frequently, at
night, it brightly reflects the glare of the subterranean fires in the crater be-

i^Uj^

VOLCANIC ISLETS SOUTH OF YKDO GULF.

843

ing, as in jmc
itbin half a mile

nenth, forming in clear weather a conspicuous landmark, visible by night or
day for many miles.

There arc several villages on the island, and a population of about 5,000.
The coast is free of all danger, with the exception of a few detached rocks and
boulders lying close to it. The principal village is on the North side, off
which n narrow bank affords a precarious anchorage in 12 to 18 fathoms.
Another considerable village, having the advantage of a junk harbour, is
situated at the S.K. point. Landing may be effected at the North village, or
in the junk harbour. The inhabitants were civil and hospitable, but averse to
strangers visiting the volcano. The Broken Islat <ls of the old charts lie to
the southward of Vries Island. They were examined by ILM.S. Actaon, in
1861, and consist of the following.

To Bima, 10 miles S.S.W. of Vries Island, is 1 mile in diameter, pyramidal
shaped, and its summit 1,730 ft. high.

Utone', 2 miles S. J E. from To sima, is a conical islet, GGO ft. high ; de*
tached rocks lie near its shores.

Nil SIMA is about 2J miles S. i W. from Utono, and from its broken out-
line appears from a distance as several islands. Its extent is 5 miles, North
and South, and its most elevated part 1,490 ft. above the sea. There is a small
low islet a short distance off its S.E. point, and another off its western side.

Sikine sima, about 1^ mile S.W. of Nii sima, is low, with a small islet off
its North end. It is 1^ mile long, N.N.E. and S.S.W., and one of the vessels
of the Amerioan squadron passed between it and Kosu sima, and saw no danger;
there is, therefore, reason to believe that the channel is safe.

KOSTJ SIMA, 5 miles S.W. of Sikine sima, and in lat. 34° 12i' N., long.
139° Of E. (centre), is elevated 2,000 ft. above the sea. It is 3 J miles long,
N.E. and S.W., and may bo recognised by n remarkable snow-white cliff on
its western side, and a white patch on its volcanic summit, to the northward
of the cliff. There is a safe channel, 15 miles wide, between Kosu sima and
Miaki.

Two small rocky islets lie close together about half a mile off the centre of
the eastern shore of Kosu sima, and about 2 miles westward of the S.W. point
arc Onghashi or Brood Rocks, which sliould be given a safe berth, as their
jugged appearance would lead to the belief that there are many hidden dangers
in their immediate neighbourhood.

REDFIELD BOCKS, or Sanbon-take, thus named by Commodore Perry,
U.S.N. , in 1854, after the well-known meteorologist, lies 20 miles S.W. i W.
from Kosu sima. They are the most western of the cliain of islands and rocks
South of the Gulf of Yedo, and the most dangerous of the whole group. They
consist of two patches of black rocks, extending nearly 3 miles N.N.E. and
S.S.W. The southern rocks, in lat. 33° 50' N., long. 138° 48 J' E., ore about
20 ft. above high water, while the northern are only about half that height.
Nearly midway between them is a /lat rock, over which the sea breaks heovily,

844

THE JAPANESE ARCHIPELAGO.

I!!l! j

and the heads of two or three small rocks crop up around it. There is said
to be deep water between the flat rock and the northern patch, but except in
a case of sudden emergency it would not be prudent to attempt passing
through. The hand-lend will afford no warning when approaching this dan-
gerous cluster, and in thick weather the islands in the vicinity would not be
seen. The current in their vicinity set on one occasion about N. by E., and
its rate was 2 to 3 \nots.

MIAKI, Mitake, or Volcano Island. — The flat summit of this island, 2,600
feet high, is in lat. 34° 5' N., long. 139° 31^' E. It is called Brandten Eyland
(burning island) by De Vries, who places a group of rocks about 2 miles to
the S.W. of it. Broughton says that there are some black rocks 2 or 3 miles
from its Eut>t j^.oint. It is about 5 miles in diameter, and according to
Broughton well cultivated, and covered with verdure to the summit.

Onohara is a small group, 5 miles W.S.W. of Miaki. It is composed of n
cluster of seven or eight high detached rocky pinnacles, the centre one being
perforated in two places. When beaiing from E.N.E. to N.E., they appear
us one islet.

Mikora, or Prince Island of Do Yries, is also high, its summit being in lat.
33° 62' N., long. 139° 35' E. Von Siebold marks it as the Ongelukkig Eyland
of De Vries.

BROUGHTON ROCK, or Kanawa, in lat. 33° 39' N., long. 139° I7f E., is
a small inaccessible islet about CO ft. high, flat topped, and so bold that at
about a third of a mile from its N.E. side no soundings could be obtained with
1 80 fathoms line. The northerly current in its neighbourhood was found to
be particularly strong, running nearly 4 knots an hour.

FATSIZIO ISLAND, or Ilachijo, the most southern of the islands visited
by the Aclceon, is 8 J miles long, N.W. by N. and S.E. by S., and 4 miles wide
nt its broadest part. In shape it is nearly oblong, rounded at the N.W. cud,
while at its S.E. end a slight curve forms a bay, the observation spot in which,
close to some small huts, is ir. lat. 33° 4' 24" N., long. 139° 50' 24" E. Anchor-
age was obtained off this b: y in 16 fathoms, sand and gravel, at less than a
mile from the shore, but raite exposed from S.S.W. to N.N.E., and a vessel
would always be liable to experience a heavy swell. Tliere was 30 fathoms,
dark sand, at about 2 miles off this shore, but the rest of the coast appeared to
share the bold features and to be as stecp-to as the generality of these islands.

This island is n penal settlement of Japan. Its highest part is the northern,
where a mountain reaches an elevation of 2,840 ft. At the base of this moun-
tain, aud creeping up for some distance on its West side, is an extensive settle-
ment, while in several places along both shores arc found little hamlets and
villages, so that the island would appear to support a considerable population.
A tract of low land in the centre of, and extending across, the island is well
cultivated. To the southward of this the land again assumes a considerable
elevation, but does not reach the altitude of the northern part.

li|^i«wi« I .-

VOLCANIC ISLETS SOUTH OF YEDO GULF.

845

it. There is said
>atch, but except in
o attempt passing
•roaching this dnn-
inity would not be
)out N. by E., and

)f this island, 2,690
d Krnndten Eyland
; about 2 miles to
rocks 2 or 3 miles
and according to
summit.

is composed of a
centre one bein"'
N.E., they appear

mmit being in Lit.
Ongelukkicf Eylaml

g. 139M7f E., is
d so bold that at
I be obtained with
ood was found to

the islands visited
. and 4 miles wide
»t the N.W. end,
ion spot in which,
>' 24" E. Anchor-
1. at less than a
E., and a vessel
was 30 fathoms,
;onst a])pcarcd to

of these islands.
; is the northern,
ise of this moun-
extensive settlc-
tle hamlets and
able population.
B island is mxII

a considerable

At the S.F. end of Fatsizio arc two or three small streams of delicious water
falling down the rocks, and in smooth water boats may readily obtain an
abundant supplj . It is high water, on full and change, at & ; springs rise 5 ft.

Eodzine is a small and nearly oral-shaped island, 1,820 ft. high, 1^ mile
long, lying 2 miles westward of the highest part of Fatsizio. Some small
rocks, as is also the case with Fatsizio, are found quite close inshore, but no
off-lying dangers are at present known. A small population is to be found on
the lower part of the island.

The islands southward of Fatsizio were visited by the U.S.S. Alert, 1880,
and some of the following information is taken from Commander Huntington's
report.

AOGA, OnangO sima, or South Island, is a Dutch discovery verified by
Colnett, and according to Commander Huntington is in lat. 32° 28J' N., long.
139° 43J' E. It is about 1,000 ft. high, of irregular volcanic formation, 3
miles long by 1 mile wide. Its coasts are steep, and the only landing place is
on the N.E. side, near a sharp rock, 8 ft. above high water, lying nt a little
distance from th° land. The landing place can easily be distinguished by some
huts in the vicinity, but landing can only be effected in the native boats, on
account of the constant heavy surf. The island contains about 200 or 300 in-
habitants, the descendants of Japanese criminals. The North and N.W. sides
of the island are cultivated with barley, peas, beans, sweet potatoes, and radish,
upon which, with fish, these poor people subsist ; they have also a few cattle^
and grow a little tea. There is very little timber. There are no springs, their
water being supplied by frequent rains, and that is scarcely fit to drink. The
people are much in want of food, clothes, fishing tackle, &c.

BAYONNAISE KOCKS, in lat. 31° 55' 15" N., long. 139° 54' 18" E., were
seen by Capt. J. de la Graviure, in the French corvette La Bayonnaise, May
31, 1850, and his description accords with that of Koning Willem III. Island,
by Capt. Ilouckgecst, mentioned below. They are a group of sharp-pointed
rocks, elliptical in form, 2 cables long. North and South, with several hum-
mocks, the northern and highest summit boi"- ubout 30 ft. above the sea ;
several rocks extend a quarter of a mile off the N.W. and N.E. sides. Sound-
ings were obtained by the Alert, within a quarter of a mile of these rocks.

Bayonnaise Eocks arc probably .ae same as Koning Willem III. Island,
Been, if not discovered, by Capt. Ilouckgecst, in the Netherlands brig Koerier,
August 24, 1849, ■■ k' placed by him in lat. 31° 52' 48', long. 139° 68' 4G".
They were also seen from the Elizabeth Kimball, in May, 18G3, and her com-
mander states that at 7 miles W.S.W. of the rocks the bottom was plainly
visible in about 5 fathoms. Numerous other reports of rocks and reefs have
been made in this locality, as described in the previous edition of this work,
which may refer to this group, or have been owing to volcanic agency.

SMITH ISLAND, the next to the southward, was reported by Capt. Smith,
of the Heber. It was first seen in March, 18^0, during a gale of wind; and

'¥.-'.,^

I. I

■ t

Jill'

S4d

THE JAPANESE ARCHIPELAGO.

on the return voyage, in December, 1846, a boat was sent alongside during n
calm. He placed it in lat. 31° 12', long. 139° 55', and stated it to be of a
needle shape, and probably 300 ft. high, but not more than 250 ft. in diameter
nt the base, surrounded by smaller peaks beneath the surface. Capt. Stickncy,
of the barque Sarah Warren, states that at a short distance East of it was a
rock, on which the sea broke furiously.

H.M.S. Tribune passed it January 18, 1859, the position being given as lat.
31° 18' N., long. 139° 50' E. It was described as a high pinnacle-looking
rock, about three-quarters of a mile in circumference, with heavy breakers
extending apparently a quarter of a mile from it, and a small rock close-to on
the North side. Observations made on the Alert place it in lat. 31"^ 27' 8",
long. 140° 2'; its height was estimated at about 421 ft., and no bottom was
found around it.

Capt. Scott, of the ship Lucile, states that on September 26, 1879, being in
lat. 31° 33', long. 139° 38', he observed an island bearing S.E. by E. J E.,
trtie, distant 15 or 20 miles, resembling in the distance throe hummocks, the
highest to the North. This accords with the position of Smith Island, but the
a2)pearance is entirely different.

Jeannetie Island, stated to lie in lat. 31° 30', long. 140° 0', is probably the
same. Todos los Santos and San Tomas, of the old charts, may refer to this
or PonaRdin Island.

Volcano Island, reported to be 40 ft. high, is said to lit in lat. 31° 21',
long. 1 39° 53', but its existence is doubtful. This position is not far from that
in which Capt. Smith, of the Heber, and the officers of H.M.S. 'Tribune, placed
Smith Island, as described above.

San Francisco Island.— The German war-vessel Ilertha, in 1875 arid 1876,
jinssed an island described as small and steep, with a rock about 2 cables from
its S.E. side. The position assigned to this island is lat. 31° 29' N., long.
140° 14' E., but it was not seen by the Alert.

'i'hcrc is still some amount of imcertainty about the last three islands ; it is
possible that active volcanic agency may account for this. In 1870 a volcanic
disturbance was observed at 4 miles N.E. by N. of Smith Island.

FONAFIDIN, or St. Peter Island, was discovered in 1820 by the Kussinn
lieutenant of that name, who gave it the name of Three Hills Island, from its
having apparently three hummocks. According to Commander Huntington,
of the Alert, it is of volcanic formation, about IJ mile long. East and West,
nnd rises to a height of 1,176 ft., in lat. 30° 28' 26' N., long. 140° 14' 12" E.
It is uninhabited, and its shores appear rugged and inaccessible. On its N.E.
side is a small cove, named Junk Cove, where the party landed through the
Burf. This cove is only open to winds between North and East, and junks
might find it safe to anchor here, but a large vessel would hardly find room to
swing. The depth gradually decreases from 10 fathoms at the entrance. There
is no timber or water. Gulls were very numerous.

VOLCANIC IPLETS SOUTH OF YEDO GULP.

847

A steamer caught in a gale in the vicinity of Ponafidin or Aoga simn, could
obtain shelter by keeping close under their lee.

LOT'S WIFE, Bioa de Oro, or Blank Rock, according to observations on
the Alert, is in lat. 29° 46' 28' N., long. 140° 19 J' E. It is a tall pinnacle,
rising about 466 ft. above the sea, and bearing a remarkable resemblance to a
ship under all sail. No tottom at 20 fathoms was found within 30 ft. of it,
but a rock lies off the western extreme. The current was setting to the S.E.,
causing a tide-rip.

This very extraordinary rock is thus supposed to bo correctly placed on the
chart, but it has been the subject of much doubt and uncertainty. In 1821,
Lieutenant Povalichin, of the Kussian Navy, discovered a rock of the form of
a truncated cone, in lat. 30° 3i'. In 1853, Capt. Somcrby, of the barque
2i:ibelita ITyne, discovered a black rock in lat. 29° 42', long. 140° 15', about
200 ft. high, and 100 ft. in diameter, with quite perpendicular sides. Ho
called it Black Rock. It was seen by the Linda, in 1851, by which it is placed
in lat. 29= 42', long. 140° 31', and was thought to be like a ship. It was also
seen by the Macedonia and Vincennes, of the U.S. Surveying Expedition, and
was placed in lat. 29° 47', long. 140° 22' 30'. Its altitude was calculated to
be 299 ft., and its base 40 lect.

Captain John Meares, well known in the history of early discoveries in tho
North Pacific, pabsed this, or a similar rock, when in command of the Felice,
April 9th, 1788. LiV.e most others who first saw it, he took it for a first-rato
man-of-war, under a crowd of sail. " It obtained the name of Lot's Wife, and
is one of the most wonderful objects, taken in all its circumstances, whicli I
ever beheld. The waves broke against its rugged fjont with a fury propor-
tioned to the immense distance they had to roll before they were interrupted
by it. It rose almost perpendicular to the height of nearly 350 ft. A small
black rock appeared just above the water at about 40 or 50 yards from its
western edge. There was a cavern on its S.E. side, into which the waters
rolled with an awful and tremendous noise." — Meares, p. 97.

Its position, as stated by Meares, was erroneous, in consequence of no allow-
ance being made for the strong easterly drift, unsuspected by him. It is also
the same as the Haystack of Krusenstern, and the Rica de Oro of the old
charts.

The continuation of this line of volcanic eruptive rocks, through the Volcano
and Bonin Islands, &c., will be described hereafter.

THE EAST COAST OF NIPON.

From Nosima saki (p. 831) the coast trends 3 miles eastward to Siamatsu,
thence N.E. to Cape Erratatsi (Cape King), and thence N.E. by l"!., about 30
miles, to Iwa-wada, whence it trends North, 8 miles, to Ohigasi saki (Capo
Blanco). The shore is wild and rock-bound j between Mela Head and Capo

BWHi

mmm

848

THE JAPANESE ARCHIPELAGO.

1 1
1 j

;' )

■1

^ :

1 *

■

Ml'

i. !

■ • III

King there arc no cliffis, but between Capus King and Blanco the projecting
points arc generally rugged cliffs of yellow clay or gi-avel ; the high land ter-
minating near Ohigasi saki in a long-backed hill with two thumb-shaped pia-
nacles, fronted by a bold chalky cliff.

This coast is frequently obscured by fog, and is difficult to identify from the
eastward, and vessels approaching from that direction are liable to be set out
of their reckoning by the Japan Stream. The temperature of the sea often
affords a useful guide, and the soundings give timely warning. In the summer
months there are generally heavy breakers along this coast. Mela Head often
shows out in relief, when all the coast eastward is obscured by fog.

A vessel entering Ycdo Gulf from the eastward will nearly always experience
a current against her off Mela Ledge, of 2 to 4 knots in summer. From No
sima to Iwa-wada the current is weak inshore, and vessels making for the gulf
should keep as near the coast as safety will permit, that is \i mile off.

CAFE EBBATATSI or King has over it a wooded peak, Takaska yamn,
759 ft. high, a useful landmark, it being the highest summit of the Mela pro-
montory. Rocks extend 5 cables N.E. by N. from the cape. North of tho
cape temporary anchoroge may be had in 8 fathoms, sand, sheltered from
westerly winds. To the S.E. of the small village iu the centre the depths are
irregular and shallow. At the North end of the bay is a cultivated wooded
hill, about 4 miles from which is a low point with a village on it. A rock,
awash at low water, lies 5 J cables off this point, Kitsu Point bearing N.E. J E.,
distant If mile.

Eitsn ura. — Kitsti Point, the West extreme of Kitsu ura, is a broken rocky
point, with two rocks close off it. The bay is very deep, and is the only point
on this coast not protected by a bank of soundings. A large village is situated
on the eastern shore. A peak, 1,341 ft. high, situated N.E. of Kitsu ura, is tho
highest land between Cape King and Inu-bo-ye saki. A rock, 5 ft. high, lies
1 njile N.E. J N. from Kitsu Point ; and 100 yards E.S.E. from the rock are
several rocky heads.

Ko minato Point, 5 miles E.N.E. of Kitsu Point, is the West extreme of a
line of cliffs, and has off it some detached pillar-shaped rocks. From hence
the coast continues cliffy as far as Ohigasi saki, and skirted by reefs, through
which are channels to numerous sheltered anchorages for junks. At Naming'
awa, 2 miles E. by N. from Ko minato Point, the fishermen exhibit occasion*
oily a fixed bright light.

TCATSU UBA, about IJ mile eastward of Naming-awa, is the only harbour
between Mela Head and 8endai Bay affording temporary protection, for steamers
only, from easterly winds ; the holding grouud is not good, and the anchorage
is limited, a rocky 2-fathoms shoal lying near the centre. There are several
fishing villages here, where fish, fowls, and water may be procured.

Hachimann saki, a narrow cliffy promontory, forms the eastern side of tho
liarbour, ond irregular depths extend nearly 1 mile South of the point, and

NIPON ISLAND— INU-IJO-YE SAKI.

849

some rocks Ho 2 cables N.N. W. of it. To enter, steer in for the centre of the
sandy bench at its head, bearing N. by E. f E., until the highest part of the
reef N.N.W. of Hachimann saki bears S.W. J W., distant about 2J cables,
when anchor in 7 fathoms, sand. It is high water, on full und change, at
about S*" 10" ; springs rise C'i ft., neaps 4 ft.

Rocks and foul ground extend 8 cables o£f shore, 1 mile Enst of Hachimann
saki. Iwa-wada Point lies 4 miles N.E. f E. from Hachimann saki, and when
making for Katsu ura from the eastward, care must be taken not to mistake it
for the latter point. Tide-rips and overfalls are frequent off Iwa-wada. From
hence the coast trends N. by E., 4 miles, to Ko-hama, consisting of bold, steep,
stratified cliffs.

Ohigasi or Daito saki, a bold wooded headland, 7 miles North of Iwa-
wada, is the northern termination of the cliffy const, which is here of a whitish
colour, with several rocky pinnacles about 1 cable ofiF. There is good holding
ground, with westerly winds, in 4 to 7 fathoms, mud and sand, with the
northern cliff bearing southward of West. From Ohigasi saki the coast trends
33 miles north-eastward, forming an open sandy bay as far as the cliffs of
luu-bo-ye saki.

INU-BO-YE SAKI, a projecting rocky headland with a smooth bare sum-
mit, 242 ft. high, stands out in bold relief. Its South shore is a black cliff,
about 140 ft. high ; the S.E. point is low, and foul ground extends 4 cables
from it. Thence the shore trends northward, 3 miles, to a pillar-shaped rock,
and thence N.W. to the mouth of the Tone gawa, rocky lodges extending 3
to 4 cables off it. There is temporary anchorage in 4 fathoms, sand, 2 miles
West of the S.E. point.

LIGHTHOUSE.- On the S.E. extreme of Inu-bo-ye saki is n white tower,
103 ft. high, showing a revolvin;/ briyht light, attaining its greatest brilliancy
every half minute, elevated 1G8 ft., and visible 19 miles seaward between
N. f W. and W.S.W. Lat. 35° 43' 30" N., long. 140° 51' 32' E.

The Japanese steam-vessel Meji Mam, in swinging to her anchor off Inu-
bo-ye saki, recently struck on a 15-ft. pinnacle rock. The vessel is said to
have frequently anchored on the same bearings, and the master was of opinion
that the rock had been thrown up during a recent earthquake. The vessel
was anchored in 6 J fathoms, at IJ mile from the beach, with the lighthouse
bearing N.E. by N. i N. ; West end of small island, N.W. by N. ; East end
of reef, E. by N. ; Black Hocks, N. i 'E,.— U.S. Hydrot/raphio Notice, 1880.

The Tone gawa is the outfall of a series of streams and lakes, the waters of
which take their rise not far from Tokio. Only the smallest craft can cross
the bar at high water and in fine weather. There is a pilot-office at Choosi,
on the South bank, and here there is a population of about 25,000, chiefly
fishermen. There is daily postal communication with Tokio by means of steam
launches. Firewood and charcoal are plentiful,

North Pacijic. 5 -

'.vl

'-r

8<0

THE JAPANESE ARCHIPELAGO.

.1 1

• i ill

:| '

There is anchorage, during westerly winds, in 6 fathoms, sand, at 7 cablet
northward of the entrance, but it cannot be recommended.

The Coast from Tone gawa to Machama, 35 miles northward, is wooded,
and from hence to Kawajiri, a fishing village 18 miles farther northward, the
shore is bounded by low cliffs. North of Kawajiri the hill ranges commence.
There are no known anchorages between Kawajiri and Scndai Bay, a distance
of about 110 miles. Toyoma Potnl, about 80 miles northward of the Tone gawa,
is said to have a dangerous reef extending 2^ miles K.S.E. of it.*

SENDAI BAT, in lat. 38° 20' N., lies between Matsu sima on the West and
Amitsu-hama Island on the East, about 20 miles apart. The land surrounding
it is mountainous, and in places thickly wooded. The sharp wooded summit
of Kingkasau Island is conspicuous. Large fishing "look-outs" i>rc often
found moored in the bay. Care is necessary in approaching the group of
wooded islands and rocks off Matsu sima Bay, in the N.W. corner of Scndai
liay, as reefs and rocks extend off them to a considerable distance. There is
said to be an indraught into the bay. At 10 miles inland there is: a high,
easily-recognisable mountain, about 4,600 ft. high, in about lat. 39° 28' N.,
long. 141° 41' E. ; imfortunutcly it is frequently obscured by clouds.

Matsu sima Bay is extensive but shallow. In its southern entrance, which
is obstructed by low reefs and sunken rocks, is the villoge of Sahusawa and
the small port of Ishibama, where small steam-vessels call. The northern
entrance to the bay, 4 miles to the northward, is completely blocked up by a
sand-bank, but good shelter for two or three vessels may be obtained, off it in
5 or 6 fathoms, mud, open only to the East. When making for this bight a
remarkable pinnacle rock, about 60 ft. high, with trees on its summit, stands
off the coast, ond there is a reef of rocks just northward of it. Anchorage may
be obtained with north-westerly winds, northward of this pinnacle rock, in
about 6 fathoms.

Kita Kami River, the largest of two rivers in the northern part of Sendai
Bay, is said to be navigable for junks for 70 miles, and boats can reach
Moriofca, 120 miles distant. A. fixed bright lantern light, elevated 52 ft., and
visible 6 miles, is shown from a white staff on the East side of the entrance ;
but it can with difficulty be distinguished from the lights of the village,
Ishinomaki, and the junks.

At 3^ miles eastward of the entrance is the fishing village of Watanoka,
situated on the western entrance to an extensive basin.

Amitsu-hama Islaad is rocky, and rises in bare hills ; it has deep water on

* Arkold Sock, reported by the Russian frigate Arkold, in 1859, to lie in lat. 36° 16' K.,
long. 141* 28' E., was again reported in thick weather, by the Russian war-vessol Sibole,
in 1870, about 11 miles southward of the spot in which it was first reported ; it was said to
be 20 ft. high. This danger has been searched for, and its position passed, by several of
H.M. ships, but no signs of it were seen. It has been removed from the charts.

NIPON ISLAND— KINGKASAN ISLAND.

801

its N.E. side, but a reef extends some distance off its S.E. point. Depths of
16 to 19 fathoms will be found between the island and Nagasnma, nud anchor-
age for largo vessels may bo obtained in 12 to 9 fathoms, sand, off its North
end. Aikawa, the second bay on the mainland, abreast the North end of Na-
gasama Island, is half a mile wide, affording anchorage in 7 to 9 fathoms, mud.
This boy may be recognised by its having the only white sandy beach in the
vicinity, and from a wooded islet lying off its northern point. This is a safe
anchorage, and the first sheltered spot for vessels bound northward from Ycdo
Gulf. It is easy of access, the entrance being between the cape West of
Kingkasan and the S.K. point of Amitsu-hama, off both of which there are
reefs. The reef projecting 3 cables from the southern cape is dangerous, as
the sea breaks on it only when there is a heavy swell.

Both these anchorages afford shelter from North and East winds, but a heavy
sea is thrown in by winds from East to N.W.

Nagasama and Tastro, two islets north-westward of Amitsu-hama, lie N.W.
and S.E. of each other, and arc about 150 ft. high, Tasiro being the southern, and
connected with Amitsu-hama by a reef. Off the S.E. end of Tasiro is a small
islet, and a single rock, which dries, lies 2 cables East of the southern e.xtremo
of Nngasama.

KIXOKASAN, or Goldmine Island, is bold, rising In a wooded peak, 1,000
feet high. It may be passed close-to, but the depth between it and the shore
is only 3 fathoms ; there is anchorage ok, the South side of the narrows. The
island is resorted to by pilgrims, it being dedicated to religious purposes.
Deer are numerous, and are considered sacred. Mica is found in large quan-
tities.

LIGHTHOUSE.— On its East side is a granite tower, 40 ft. high, showing a
fixed bright light, elevated 178 ft., and visible 19 miles seaward between
N. by E. and S.W. i W.

Fog Signal. — In foggy weather a steam Siren will sound a blast of 6 seconds
in every minute.

The Coast between Kingkasan and Yamada, a distance of 70 miles, is at
present but little known. It presents a deeply-indented outline, probably con-
cealing some fine harbours, those of Kama-i-shi and Odzutsu being the only
ones known. The shores appear high and bold, and arc apparently thinly
populated, fishing-boats being seen only off Simidzu. It is not recommended
to pass inside Hira sima, Asi sima, and their contiguous groups, lying north*
Ward of Kingkasan.

EAMA-I-SHI HAHBOXTB, in lat. 39° 16 J' N., is a spacious inlet, a little
over 1 mile wide at its entrance, and extends 2 miles westward, affording a
secure sheltered anchorage. Its shores are broken and rocky, forming several
bays, that in the N.W. comer being the largest ; at its head is a sandy beach,
at the North extreme of which is the town of Kama-i-shi, where fish, fruit,
fowls, and water can be obtained. Kama-i-shi is more easy of access to a

1 1

852

THE JAPANESE ARCHIPELAGO.

sailing vessel tlmn Yamada Ilurbour, 10 miles to the northward. It is not an
open port, and nt present there is no traffic whatever. At about 10 miles inland
is a district abounding in iron ore of good quality, which will probably soon
bo worked by tho Government. A railway is ia course of construction, as also
a pier in connection therewith.

Malaga saki, tho northern entrance point, is faced with cliffs, and rooks ex*
tend 3 cables off it. There arc two roeka near the centre of the harbour, about
onc'third of a cable apart ; tho northern has a depth of 6 ft. at low water, and
tho southern 2 ft. A black buoy ia moored on tho North sido of tho North
rock ; the southern rock is marked by a red beacon, an iron post, surmounted
by a cage over a triangle. Vessels must not pass eastward of tho beacon.

When entering, pass midwny between Matngn saki and the southern shore,
until tho town opens out and the red beacon bears N.W. by W., when houl up
for it, and steer for tho town, passing about 1 cable South of the beacon.

Sangan tima, about 3 miles N.E. of the entrance to Kama-i-shi Harbour, is
about half a mile long, with a wooded summit, and lies about three-quarters
of a mile off tho coast. On its S. W. part arc some whito quartz boulders, and
also on the cape N.W. of the island.

ODZUTSU HARBOUB, in about lat. 39" 23' N., long. 141° 55' E., is three-
quarters of a mile wide at its entrance, opening within to a spacious double
bay, nearly 3 miles in depth W.S.W. and E.N.E. In tho northeni bay is the
village of Oikutsu, on the North e' ore, and on the sandy beach at its head that
of Kirikiri. Kcefs extend half a mi> *- more north-eastward of the southern
cnti'ance point, and on the southern siciu v > peninsula is a large island.
At nearly 6 cables West of the northern entrance. _ r int is a small islet, on
which is a ruined temple ; from it a reef extends 3 cables towards the North
shore, nearly joining it, and protecting the anchoroge off Odzutsu from any
heavy sea. Fish is plentiful.

The harbour is surrounded by high, thickly woodec! ixUls, about 1,200 ft. in
height, and is open only to winds from E.N.E., from wbi( h, however, the an-
chorage off Odzutsu is perfectly sheltered. The depib. vi'.ries from 27 fathoms
at the entrance to 11 fathoms at the anchorage, ':i>i c'.bles S.W. of Odzutsu
mole ; the holding ground, black mud, is good.

YAMADA HARBOUB, a large basin, surrounded by mountains upwards of
1,000 ft. in height, is entered by a deep broad pass, running S.W. between
high bold shores. It is a magnificent harbour, perfectly landlocked, with good
holding ground, and may be run for by a steam-vessel requiring shelter at
almost ouy time with perfect confidence, but the water is too deep for anchor-
age except off Yamada. On the North shore is the village of Osawa, South of
which, on a sandy beach at the head of the bay, is the town of Shimo Yamada.
Supplies of any sort are scarce here, and the water is bad. Oo sima and Ko
tima lie at tho head, off the mouth of tho Ori-kasa kawa ; they are surrounded
by a shoal Sal.

NIPON ISLAND— SIllIYA SWI.

88S

Appronching from scnwnril, the many iHleU South of Y^mnda render it diffi-
cult to at once make out the entrance, but either from northward or southward
« safo course will bo to steer fur the eastern extreme of tho land seen, which
will lead up to tho harbour, when a mid-channel course may bo steered for tho
anchorage in 6 fathoms, off the centre of tho town of Yamoda. In spring,
fierce gusts of wind come down off tho mountains, and it is advisable to havo
two anchors down. It is high water, ou full and change, at G** 30*" ; spiings
rise 4 feet.

Miyako Bay, 8 miles North of Yamada, is about 5 miles deep, with depths
varying from 40 fathoms at tho entrance to 5 fathoms at 1 mile from the sandy
beach at its head. An island lies 3 cables off the shore on the West side of
,the entrance, 1 mile South of which is n peninsula projecting from the western
shore, and protecting the anchorage off Miyako, South of it.

North of Miyako the coast takes a N.N.E. direction, bordered by broken
cliffs, and backed by high flat ranges, which rise to about 2,000 ft,, gradually
decreasing in elevation towards the North until about Sanemuva Point, where
it becomes low. Auro saki stands well out, and may be recognised by its small
range of hills about 700 ft. high. Two isolated mountains can bo seen behind
Hon-na-mi. The land is densely wooded.

Cape de Vries is low and flat, about 330 ft. high, and is remarkable from
the way it stands out between two bays. The Duplelx sailed along this coast
from Cape Kiori to Capo Yries, at a distance of from 2 to 4 miles, and saw no
danger except close t he shore.

SIBIYA SAKT, or Cape Namhu, the N.E. extremity of Nipon Island, is a
narrow point, trending in a N.N.E. direction ; the land for about a mile South
of the extreme point is low and flat ; it then gradually rises to a prominent
hill with a double summit, called Siriya yama (Whaleback), tho highest part,
1,321 ft., being about 2^ miles S.S.W. of the point. The coast for about 4
miles South of the point is rocky. South of which a sandy beach extends for
many miles. From the N.E., at the distance of 6 or 8 miles, the outline of
this point resembles the back of a sperm whale, with its head to the southward,
the Dodo Rocks, off the point, forming the flukes.

LIOHTHOUSE.— On Siriya saki is a white tower, 94 ft. high, showinsj a
fixed bright light, elevated 150 ft., and visible 18 miles seaward between
S.W. by W. and S. i W. Lat. 41° 26' 10" N., long. 141° 29' 25" E.

Fog Signal— In. foggy weather a steam Siren will give a blast of 6 seconds
at intervals of 1 minute. Should the Siren be out of order, a Bell will sound
continuously 15 strokes per minute.

At 3 cables N.N.E. of the point is a conspicuous rock, 60 ft. high ; there is
no passage between. Rattler Rock, awash at low water, lies 8J cables E.N.E.
of the lighthouse. In 1879 H.M.S. Charybdis reported n rock 2 miles E. by N.
of the lighthouse, but a thorough examination by H.M.S. Flying Fish failed

'^^<!'

: I

> I

i I

! '

864

THE JAPANESE AECHIPELAGO.

to find it. A narrow ledge of less than 20 fathoms, usually covered with tide-
rips and overfalls, extends about 3 miles N.N.E. of Siriya saki.

The coast, from Siriya saki, trends S.W., and for about 3J miles to Uii/a
mura is foul and rocky. At IJ mile from the point is Observatory Island, a
rocky islet, 1 cable from the shore, and 80 ft. high.

Temporary anchorage may be obtained on either side of Siriya saki ; but,
ucder any circumstances, it is a most exposed place, and great caution should
be used. On the western side good shelter may be found from all winds, ex-
cept those from West, through North, to N.E., oflF Uiya mura, in 7 or 8
fathoms, sand. On the eastern side, at 2 miles South of the point, vessels can
anchor off the sandy beach > The lead is a safe guide, and from a vessel at an-
chor in 7 to 9 fathoms the light at Siriya saki is visible. A small vessel might
anchor in 4 or 5 fathoms with good shelter.

Directions. — Vessels bound from the Gulf of Yedo to Tsugar Strait will,
after passing Mela Head, experience the full force of the J.ipan Stream setting
to the E.N.E. Having passed Mela Ledge and the shoals E.S.E. of Nosima
Point, steer along the coast at a distance of 1 J or 2 miles as far as Iwa-wada,
and thence N.E. ^ E. for Inu-bo-ye saki, passing the point at 1^ or 2 miles
distant. By keeping farther off shore, however, the Japan Stream will be
more felt, and a more rapid passage ensured. After passing Inu-bo-ye saki,
shape a course to pass at not less than 3 miles from the coast ; North of this
cape the Kuro Siwo is scarcely perceptible. This coast is known to be sub-
ject in spring to strong galea and much heavy weather.

During thick weather the bank of soundings N.E. of Iwa-wada forms a
useful guide to vessels approaching from the eastward and bound southward ;
when, during summer, keep as near the coast as safety will permit, to avoid ihc
strength of the Kuro Siwo.

Current. — The Oya Siwo flows to the southward along the N.E. coast as far
South as Inu-bo-ye saki, its average width being from 100 to 200 miles. Ou
nearing the entrance of Tsugar Strait a sudden iall may be experienced in the
temperature of the sea of from 15° to 20°, as the vessel passes from the Kuro
Siwo into this cold current.

THE STRAIT OP TSUGAR.

The ST&AIT of TSITGAE, Tsuyuru, or Sangar, separating Nipon froirt
Yezo Island, is about 40 miles in length, E.N.E. and W.S.W., and 9J miles
wide at its narrowest part. The following description is principally from the
remarks of John Richards, Master Commanding H.M.S. Saracen, who sur-
veyed the strait in 1855, and of Lieut. Hoskyn, H.M.S. Sylvta, 1882.

Winds. — Strong N.W. winds prevail in this strait during the winter, accom-
panied by snow and rain, and the weather is very boisterous. In April the
wind hauls to the westward, with heavy squalls from tho S.W. In May the

ilii^

STRAIT OP TSUGAR— CAPE YOKOISO.

855

with tidc-

s to Utya
Island, n

snki; but,
ion should
winds, ex-
in 7 or 8
•essels can
ssel at an-
ssel might

(trait will,
am setting
of Nosiina
Iwa-wada,
3r 2 miles
m will be
)o-ye saki,
•th of this
to be sub-

a forms n
outhward ;
3 avoid the

loast as far

niles. On

iced in the

the Kuro

ipon from:
i 9J miles
f from the

who sur-
2.
cr, accora-

April the
I Mav the

wind is from the southward, variable between S.W. and S.E. (sometimes more
easterly or westerly), and fine weather commences, lasting until the middle of
September, when it becomes unsettled, and summer commences to break up
with frequent gules ; winter fairly setting in in October. Dense fogs prevailed
in May and June ; after that period they are comparatively rare.

Corrent. — Through the middle of Tsugar Strait the cvirrent sets constantly
to the north-eastward, but its breadth and velocity vary considerably accord-
ing to the wind and weather. Before and during a N.E. wind H.M.S. Saracen
found its strength was much diminished ; but with the wind from the opposite
direction, it would expand and fill up two-thirds of the channel against the
strength of the western tide. Steamers bound westward from Hakodate
should keep well inshore along the Yezo coast, to avoid the current as much
as possible.

Tides. — ^The shores are subject to tidal influence, the flood making to the
eastward. The tide in the stream ran about 12 hours each way near the full
and change of the moon, and there were only two regular tides by the shore
in 24 hours. On full and change, the flood stream made at Tatsupi saki at
&' 30"" a.m., at 1^ at Cape Tsiuka, and at 7" 30"" at Toriwi saki. The western
stream began about 12 hours later. The turn of the stream takes place 1^ hour
later every day nearly.

C. Pemberton Hodgson, Esq., H.M. Consul at Hakodate, writes : — " The
tides set with terrific force from the Pacific and Japan Sea ; coming from the
S.E. and E.S.E. on the one side, and from the West, S.W., and N.W. on the
other, they meet in the very middle of the strait. From any high land an ob-
server may see such fearful concussions of the two tides, each running from '6
to 5 miles an hour, and such heavy breaking overfalls, that he may wonder
how a ship can, even with a fair wind, face them; and, with comparative
alarm, how, with a contrary wind, a vessel can beat against them."

CAPE YOKOISO or Gamaley is near the N.W. point of Nipon, and in
approaching the western entrance of Tsuvar Strait from the S.W., Bittern
Hocks, described hereafter, will be seen lying W. by S., about 16 miles from
it. The land about this cape is moderately elevated and level. The coast be-
tween it and Oho saki, to the northward, if !ow and sandy. Between Sasagota
Bay, a large shallow lagoon, and Oho saki, 6 miles to the northward, the
coast is safe of approach, having regular soundings, ond fair anchorage in
N.E. winds.

Oho saki, or Cape Greig, is remarkable from its peculiar form, and being
the commencement of the high land extending to Tatsupi saki, 8 j- miles to
N.E. by N. i N. The bay between these points, although containing much
foul ground, may be useful to a vessel dui'iug an easterly gale ,

TATSUPI SAKI, or Cape Tsugar, the South point of the western entrance
to Tsugar Strait, is a bluff, 362 ft. high, from whence the land r>ses to the
height of 2,200 ft., 4 miles inland. A large rock, 300 ft. high, Mm 2 cables

85G

THE JAPANESE AECHIPELAGO.

■!: i:

■ W'

I- i

-I:

N.E. of the cape, and is connected to it Ly a low neck of sand and stones. The
cape is steep-to, but the strong eddies near it make it prudent not to approach
it nearer than a mile.

Taka no taki, or Gun Cliff, 9^ miles E. by S. i S. from Tatsupi saki, is
stcep-to, and has a battery of six guns on its apex, which is 200 ft. high. In
the bay between these points, off the town of Memoyah, about half a mile from
the shore, there is capital anchorage in 8 fathoms, the best in the strait next
to Hakodate. Wood and water is abundant here.

From the South point of Nambu Peninsula a steep cliffy shoro trends 25
miles northward, nearly in a straight line to Toriwi saki. The cliffs are coloured
with the most brilliant and varied tints, and, like the entire coasts of the strait,
are of basaltic formation. Among the most remarkable are the Red Cliffs,
1,600 ft. high, 17 miles southward of Toriwi saki. At 9 miles farther north-
ward are two remarkable pointed cliffs, named Cape Yakosi or Double Head.
Nearly 2 miles S.W. of this head is a rock 42 ft. high ; and North about 3
cables from this is a rock, awash at low water.

TOBIWI SAKI, the northern point of Nipon, is a low tapering point, half
a mile off which is Omasaki sima or Loiv Islet, 45 ft. high. The ground all
around this cape and islet is very foul. The soundings off it are irregular, and
the East-going stream causes swirls, tide-rips, and overfalls, sometimes very
heavy. Anchorage may be obtained out of the strength of the tide in 10 to 12
fathoms, 1 mile East of the point, but caution is necessary.

Singapore Bock, on which the steamer Singapore struck in 1867, has 9 ft.
on it, and lies 8 cables E.N.E. of Low Islet, at the extremity of a ledge of 6
to 17 fathoms, connecting it with Low Islet. The overfalls are very heavy
around it. At 6 cables N.W. by N. of Low Islet is a rocky 2} -fathoms patch.

Yake yama saki, 8 miles S.E. of Toriwi saki, is a bold headland, very stecp-
♦j; ;ii>-ut 2J miles S.E. of it are Aha-gawa mura and Red Cliff,two prominent
t-oinf.fj, .he former low and green, the latter fronted by red cliffs about 100 ft.
M: ' The coast is generally bold and rocky, backed by high densely wooded
hills. Minando mura and Ohata, 4 miles S.S.E. of Ked Cliff, are towns at the
mouth of a small river, where junks load timber. The coast hence to Uiya
mura, about 11 miles eastward, forms a bay with a sandy beach, free from
dangers, with anchorage in 7 to 10 fathoms. Cape Siriya saki and its light>
house are described on p. 853.

AWOMOBI BAT, a vast interior basin at the North end of Nipon. opens
on the South side of Tsugar Strait, the entrance being 5 miles wide, \\ ith high
land on both sides. Some half-tide rocks lie 1 cable off the salient part of the
West point. According to the Japanese, no hidden Kngers exist. Towards
the centre the water is too deep to anchoi but at 2 mUts from the East and
West coasts there is generally 19 to 22 fathoms. Without a pilot or a chart
it is not advisable to approach nearer than in II fathoms. There are nu^nerou^
villages ou the shores.

Jk^ii

TSUGAR STRAIT— AAVOMORI.

857

Awomori, at the head of the western part of the bay, appears to have from
15,000 to 20,000 inhabitants. The shore is bordered by a fertile plain of rice-
fields, and a great quantity of rice is exported to Yezo. Beef, timber, and fire-
wood can be obtained. The anchorage is open to the North, and 9 fathoms
will be found at 2 cables from the shore, with good holding ground. It is high
water, on full and change, at 2'' 58"" ; springs rise 2 J ft.

Light. — k fixed red light, elevated 't5 ft., and visible 6 miles, is shown from
a white staff in front of the town.

Natsu sima, 12 miles N.N.K. of Awomori, is the extremity of the peninsula
dividing Awomori Bay into two pavts. Shiranai Bay, 5 miles to the S.E., is
about 1 J mile in extent, but shoal water extends half a mile from its head.

ifolbi lies in the S.E. bight of Awomori Bay. The anchorage is in a large
^►w. liar indentation in front of the town, at 6 cables from the shore, in 6J^

-alic,:/-, gravel bottom. The town is half a mile from the coast ; at the shore
there is only a Ityge village. There is a considerable traffic in copper here.

From Nofitsi the coast trends 25 miles northward to Ando Bay, near the
head of which there is anchorage in 6J to 8 fathoms. To the S.W. of the an-
chorage is Port Ando, a, fine basin, sheltered by a bank of sand running
parallel to the coast, with good anchorage in 3£ to 5 fathoms, mud, abreast
the second village.

Cape Kusodomari, 1 8 miles S.W. of Ando, is the eastern point of the en-
trance to Awomori Bay. At 2 miles S.E. I E. from it, and 5J cables from the
shore, are the two islets of Ben-ten sima.

CAFE YESAN, or Esarmi, on the South coast of Yezo, is the North point
of the eastern entt-aAee to Tsugar Strait, and the East extreme of a bold pro-
montory, with r.i ,-ViA remarkable dome-shaped mountains in the rear. The
cape itself is f .toey; 'luff, about 600 ft. high, with some rocks off it ; the vol-
cano immc at '.? i^ovfi it is 1,935 ft. high, and frequently capped with a light
cloud of steuiu, -r.'J ■ la anchorage in the bay about 2 miles westward of the cape.

At 8 J miles 3.V by W. of Cape Yesan is Conical Islet, 200 ft. high, lying
dose to the high an i cliffy coast. There is a dangerous low point 1 mile to
the westward ; and at 2| miles to the eastward is Fold Point, which is low,
with a daugerows i-ecf extending 2 cables from it.

CAPE 8IW0KTJBI or Blunt bears W. I N., 2^ miles, from Conical Islet;
E. by S., 12 miles, from Hakodate Head; and N. by E. J E., OJ miles, from
Low Islet, which is the narrowest part of the strait. This cape is steep-to,
and the F '. current frequently runs with greater strength close to the rocks
than oil i. f.t'.' stream. The summit of the bluff immediately above the cape
is 1,022 l!. ; .' '. ; fi'oia thence the high laud ranges in towards Saddle Moun-
tain. The coubt for about 7 miles to the westward is a level plain, elevated
200 or 300 ft. ; beyond 7 miles it descends to the low beach connecting the
high land o*" Hakodate Head with the main.

iiorth i'acific, 6 8

8S8

THE JAPANESE ARCHIPELAGO.

? !

HAKODATE HEAD is the South extreme of a bold peaked promontory,
1,136 ft. high, standing well out from the high land of the main, with which
it is connected by a low sandy isthmus. The head is steep and precipitous,
and safe of approach. At 4f miles West of the head is Mussell Point, off
which a reef extends 2 cables, and is steep-to ; the entrance to Hakodate Har-
boar lies between these points. The coast from thence to Cape Saraki, at 4^
miles to the S.W., is lerel, but fringed with rocks, and requires caution in ap-
proaching. To the westward of the cape the shore is low, with a sandy beach
6ofe of approach, and clean vi-omd for anchorage to within 3 miles of Cape
Tsiuka.

HAKODATE HARBOUR.— Tju, t of Hakodate or Hakodadi, on the
Noith side of Tsugar Strait, is situalv-u at the foot of the northern slope of the
high peuiir-iila forming Hakodate Head. It is an excellent roadstead, 4 miles
wide and 6 miles deep, and, for accessibility and safety, is one of the finest in
the world. The harbour is in the S.E. arm of the bay, and is completely shel-
tered, with regular soundings and good holding ground, the best anchorage
being in 5 fathoms, mud, in a line with the avenue leading to the Governor's
house. A stony spit of IJ to 4 fathoms extends 1 mile northward of Anama
Toint, nt the North extreme of tlic promontory. There is a large fort on this
point.

This excellent port was thrown open to commerce by the treoty procured
by Commodore Perry, U.S.N., March 31, 1854. The town lies on the N.E.
slope of the promontory, facing the harbour. The appearance of the place is
striking and picturesque, and in its position, general aspect, and many par-
ticulars, resembles Gibraltar. The town, which contained 26,908 residents in
1884, stretches for about 3 miles along the base of a lofty promontory, divided
into three principal peaks of from COO to 1,000 ft. in height, whose bare sum-
mits are often covered with snow. The European residents numbered 34. An
excellent road connects it with Matsmai, 30 miles to the westward. The in-
habitants are chiefly engaged in commerce and the fisheries, and carry on a
large trade with the interior. More than a thousand junks have been seen at
one time at anchor in the harbour. There is telegraphic and steam commimi-
cation with other Japanese ports.

The principal exports are furs, sulphur, fish, herring oil, deer antlers, and
edible sea-weed,* the latter in large quantities, but the trade is almost entirely
in native hands. In 1883, only 34 foreign vessels, with a total tonnage of
13,571, entered here ; in the same year 1,457 Japanese vessels entered, with a
tonnage of 204,655, and 2,282 junks.

* " In its trosh state, tho \>ccd is in appearance much tho same ns tho ' kelp ' of Britain,
in lengths from 20 to 40 ft. Two or throe days of fine weather sufBcc to dry it, after whicb
it is cut into lengths, usually 3 feet 9 inchoj, and tied in bundles of half a picul each."—
Caj)t. r. Blakiston, F.R.G.S.

jaC,i i w.:..>j.i,-,!i.--.'..i.:a.UtaXi-lje'.«'

t:jiiiiii i g

TSTJGAR STRAIT— HAKODATE HARBOUR.

859

Supplies. — Water can be easily obtained from Kamida Creek, which enters
the harbour to the north-cagtward of the town, but the boats have to be
dragged over the bar of the river. The Japanese supply fresh water in their
own boats at a very moderate rate. A supply of wood and water may also be
ordered through the Custom-house, at the bazaar, or from the American agents
residing at Hakodate. The wood is suitable for steaming purposes, the pro-
portion required being 2^ times the weight of coal. Inferior coal is also pro-
curable. Merchant vessels entering the port are subject to the Custom-houso
regulations.

The seine supplied the American Squadron, in 1854, with fine salmon and a
quantity of other fish, and the shores abound with excellent shell-fish. Beef,
potatoes, sweet potatoes, fowls, eggs, and all necessaries can be procured. For
largo supplies of provisions, masters of ships should have recourse to the
American agents.

There are some shipbuilding yards here, turning out vessels of fair tonnage.
Vessels, even when seriously damaged, can undergo repairs in the harbour ',
timber of any dimensions can be procured, and its price is very moderate.
Expert and intelligent Japanese coopers, carpenters, and efficient blacksmiths
are also procurable.

There is a brass and iron foundry, though worked on a limited scale. Ships*
boats can be repaired or constructed by the Japanese in a very skilful manner
from drawings,

Lightvessel. — A lightvessel, painted red, with two masts, the forC'mast
carrying a ball, is moored in 7^ fathoms, oft' the North end of Anama Spit, and
exhibits a ^xed red light, elevated 36 ft., and visijjle 10 miles. From the
vessel the mouth of Kamid<v Creek bears E.S.E., and White Bluff S. by W.
To prevent the light being hidden, vessels are forbidden to anchor within 5
cables, when the light bears between N. by E. and S.W., through East and South.

Foff Signal. — In foggy weather a Bell is sounded five times in quick succes-
sion at intervals not exceeding 5 minutes.

At 5 cables S, by E. ^ E. from the lightvessel is a triangular floating beacon,
moored in 5 fathoms ; the passage between may be taken by vessels drawing
less than 18 ft.

The banks of less than 3 fathoms, on the East side of the bay, extend half a
mile from the shore, and must be avoided. Two white triangular beacons also
mark the 3-fathoms edge of the bank on the western side of the inner anchor-
age; they are 3 J cables apart, N. by W. J W. and S. by E. i E., in 20 ft.

A vessel can moor at a little over half a mile from the shore in 6 J fathoms,
mud, good holding ground. In less than that depth the bottom is gravel, and
anchors hold badly.

Pilots. — Vessels entering the bay are boarded by pilots, who cl.,irge five
Mexican dollars, without any distinction as to the size of the ship. There ore
no special harbour regulations.

860

THE JAPANESE AECIIIPELAGO.

i'i

!■

Tides. — It is high water in the harhour, on full and change, at S*" 37"" ;
springs rise 3J feet, neaps 1 foot.

Directions. — Approaching from the eastward, after passing Capo Suwokiibi,
the junks at anchor will be visible over the low isthimis. Round the promon-
tory of Hakodate, and giving it a berth of a mile, to avoid the ms under the
high land, steer for the sharp peak of Komagadaki, bearing about North, un-
til the East pejik of the Saddle, bearing about N.E. by N., opens to the west-
ward of the round knob on the side of the mountain ; then haul up to the
northward and eastward, keeping them well open until the centre of the sand-
hills ou the isthmus bears S.E. by E. J E. (these may be recognised by the
dark knolls upon them). This will clear Auama Spit.* Round the lightvessel,
passing northward of her, and haul to ihe S.E., anchoring as convenient in G
to 8 fathoms, taking care to keep the lightvessel bearing westward of N.W. by
N., to avoid the shoal bank oti" the town. Should the lightvessel be removed,
bring the sand-hills a point on the port bow, and stand in until Anama saki,
the western point of the town, bears S.W. i W., when you will have the best
berth, with 5J or 6 fathoms water.

If it is desirable to get nearer in, haul up a little to the eastward of South
for the low rocky peak, which will be just visible over the sloping ridge to the
southward and eastward of the town. A vessel of moderate draught may ap-
proach within a quarter of a mile of Tsuki Point, where there is a building-
yard for junks. This portion of th" harbour, however, is generally crowded
with vessels of this description ; and unless the want of repairs, or some othei
cause, renders a close berth necessary, it is better to remain outside.

Entering the harbour at. night, bring the light to bear N.E. f N., and steer
for it, taking care not to bring it to bear North of that bearing. Round it as
before directed, and anchor as convenient. Should the light be removed, steer
a northerly course to a depth of 7 iiithoms, and keeping in that depth on an
easterly and south-easterly course the spit will be safely rounded.

Should the wind fall before reaching the harbour, there is good anchorage
in the bay, in 25 to 10 fathoms water. During spring this harbour is subject
to violent gusts of wind.

CAPE TSIUKA, at 11 miles S.S.W. of Cape Saraki, is a high cliffy point,
which may be further known by three rocks extending a quarter of a mile from
a point 1 mile north-eastward of it ; the outer rock being of a conical form and
70 ft, high. The land to the westward for 4 miles is high and cliffy ; about
half-way between the cape and the end of the cliffs there are two waterfalls.

Vessels can anchor in the bight of Fukti sima Bay, between Capes Tsiuka
and Sirakami ; but as a southerly wind on the western tide sends in a cross

* If these leading marks shonld bo in tbo clouds, as they generally are, keep the western
extreme of Hakodate Promontory bearing South or S. } W., which will clear the spit, and
haul to the onstward when the centre of the sand-hills on the isthmus bears S.Ei by E. | fit
—Commodvvt the Hon. C. Elliott U.M.S. Sybille, 1866.

TSUGAR STRAIT— CAPE SIRAKAMI.

861

svcll, it would not be prudent to anchor far in. The best position is in 15 to
20 fathoms, about 1 mile Enst of the southern white eliiF.

CAFE SIBAKAM I, or Nad'Ujcda, the North point of the western entrance
to Tsugar Strait, is a high bluff, similar to Cape Siwokubi, but not so safe of
approach. The coast, for more than a mile on each side of the cape, is bor-
dered with numerous rocks, generally above water, some of which run off nearly
2 cables. As the dangers may extend under water beyond this distance, it will
be prudent to give the cape a good berth in passing.

From Cap Sirakami the coast trends W. by N. J N., 5 miles, to Cape Tadcisi,
which is low, and off it is a conical islet, with a small temple or building on it.
The bay between is very rocky, excepting off the East end of the city of Fuku-
yama or Matsumal, once the capital of Yczo, where there is good anchorage
in 12 fathoms at half a mile offshore; but this anchorage would, of course,
be unsafe in southerly winds.

KO SIMA, about three-quarters of a mile in extent, lies W. ^ S., IG^ miles,
from Cape Sirakami, and rises in three peaks, between which is an old crater.
The western peak, which is slightly higher than the other two, is 1,009 feet
high. Ko sima is precipitous, except on the eastern side, where landing may
be effected. Sugarlvaf Rock, 4 cables to the West, is 466 ft. high ; between
it and Ko sima are two smaller rocks, about 35 ft. high.

SIMA, 2,359 ft. high, lies N.W. by W. ^ W., 22 miles, from Ko sima.
It has the appearance of an extinct volcano, and is 2\ miles long, East and
West, and about IJ mile in width; steep-to all round. These two islands form
excellent marks for Tsugar Strait.

DIRECTIONS. — Sailing vessels approaching Tsugar Strait from the west-
ward, during foggy •weather, should guard against being carried by the current
to the northward past the entrance. Should the weather be clear when nearing
Cape Yokoiso, it may be as well to sight it ; but, if doubtful, shape a course
(allowing for the probable current) direct for Oho saki. Should a fog come on
suddenly when nearing this cape, recollect that the coast is cleai and sandy,
and the soundings are regular to the southward, but rocky with irregular
soundings to the northward of it. The cape is stecp-to, and, standing out pro-
minently from the coast-line, forms a good landmark.

No particular directions are required in passing through this strait to the
eastward, the only dangers being those off Toriwi saki, and Rattler Rock off
Siriya saki (page 853), and the north-easterly current will always be found
strongest in the middle of the stream.

Approaching the strait from the eastward, steer for Siriya saki, and endeavour
to make it on a N.W. bearing. Pass the cape at not less than 2^ miles distant,
then haul in to avoid the current and to anchor, should it fall calm. In this
case, by keeping this shore close aboard, the vessel may probably be drifted up
to Low Islet, off Toriwi saki, by the western stream, when the N.E. current is
running like a mill-stream in mid-channel.

THE JAPANESE AECIIIPELAOO.

At the anchorage off Low Islet the vessel must wait a favourable opportu-
nity for crossing the strait. In summer the winds are generally light from tlio
S.W. for a considerable period ; the wind, however, generally freshens a little
when the western stream makes, and this is the right time to weigh. In cross-
ing the current, take care not to be set to leeward of Hakodate. If proceed-
ing straight to Hakodate from the eastward, the better course is to cross the
strait, and passing about 5 miles off Siriya saki, make for Cape Yesan, so as to
take advantage of the cold westerly set along the South shore of Yezo.

Proceeding from Hakodate to the westward against S.W. winds, keep well
inside Cape Tsiuka, and, if unable to round it, anchor with the stream or kcdgu
about 2 miles to the N.E., weighing again when the next western tide makes
Should the wind be very light, a vessel may not clear the strait in one tide ;
in^this case it will be better to wait a tide to the eastward of Cape Sirakami,
and take the whole of the following tide to clear the strait, than run any risk
of being swept into the strait n n by the current. Vessels passing through
the strait, particularly to the westward, should have a good kedgc and 1 50 fa-
thoms of hawser ready for immediate use, and mub keep the land close aboard.

THE ISLAND OF YEZO.

This island, in its time, has been the object of much geographical discussion
and criticism, The Dutch commander Do Vries was the first to give a distinct
notion of its existei. e and general character to the world. Subsequently the
detailed researches made in the years 1787 and 1797, by La I'erouse and Capt.
Broughton, and then the voyage of the Nadiejeda, by Capt. Kruseustern, in
1805, cleared up all doubts on the subject.

At the time of the first Japanese establishment in the island, the inhabitants,
according to Golownin, called themselves Einso, from which word the names
Yezo, Jesso, Aino, and Imu, are derived. The name of Yezo, or Jcsso, has
been adopted by most recent authors, because it is that by which it is most
generally known by Europeans, although the name Aino is, beyond doubt, that
given to the original inhabitants of the island.

Our first knowledge of the island was chiefly drawn from the notices of its
original discovery in the Dutch ships Caslricum and Breskes, under Captain
De Vries, in 1643, from that of Laxman in 1792, from Capt. Broughton in
1796, from Capt. Rikord, of the Russian corvette Diana, and from the obser-
vations of Capt. Krusenstern in 1805. The Strait of Tsugar has been surveyed
by British and American officers, and has just been described. Interesting
Papers by Commander H. C. St. John, H.M.S. Sylvia, and Capt. Blakiston,
B.A., published in the Journal of the Eoyal Geographical Society, in 1872,
and by Mr. R. G. Watson, in the same Journal for 1874, have added a great
deal to our knowledge of this island.

The Island of Yezo is somewhat of a triangular form, the three extremities of

YEZO ISLAND -VOLCANO BAY.

863

this triangle being Cape Soyo, its North point, in lot. 45" 31' 15" N., long.
141° 54' E. ; Cape Sirakami, the South point, in lot. 41° 24', long. 140° 12' 30";
and Cape Noyshaf, its eastern extreme, in lat. 43° 27', long. 145° 60' 30". The
ooast-line is about 1,000 miles in extent, and its eastern shore appears low from
seaward, resembling table-land. The western coast is bold, and ranges of lofty
mountains rise in every direction, the highest of which is Siribeta, a cone-shaped
volcano. There are numerous rivers and streams, the largest of which, the
Ibkarri, is on the West coast. Coal is found in several places, but is princi-
psiUy procured from the village of Kamami, near Iwani, on the West coast.
Sulphur abounds. Little agriculture is carried on, the inhabitants pricipally
subsisting on the produce of the ocean.

Want of linrbours, or oven anchoragcH, is the great drawback to Yezo. Con-
sidering Otarunni as a harbour, there arc tlicn four along the 1,000 miles of
coast-line, namely, Ilakodadi, Endcrmo (in Volcano IJay), Akishi, and Otaru-
nai ; and three anchorages possessing good shelter— these arc Hamanaka, Ne-
moro, and Sutsiui. — C<ij}(. II. C. St. John.

The South Coast.— At 2^ miles N.W. of Cape Yesan (page 857) is a bay
a£fording good anchorage and shelter during westerly winds. Uihtaeri Bay,
about 3 miles farther on, is a small indentation in the high shore, and shut in
from the South by a low point from vhich rise three conical mounds. There
is also a large conical hill at its head. Anchorage may be had in 4^ fathoms,
nuuldy sand, but there is a heavy sea with winds from N.W., round by North,
to East.

VOLCANO BAT, to the northword of Hakodate, was visited and named by
Cnpt. Broughtou in September, 1796, and it was re-surveyed by the U.S.8.
Southampton, one of the American expedition, in May, 1854. — (See Narrative,
pp. 535 — 540.) They generally confirmed the description by Broughton, who
thus speaks of it:—" I have seen few lands that bear a finer aspect than the
northern side of Volcano Bay. The entrance into this extensive bay is formed
by the land marking the harbour which the natives call Endcrmo, and the
South point which they call Esarmi. They bear from each other N. 17° W.
and S. 17° E., 11 leagues. There are no less than three voloanos in the bay,
which induced me to call it by that name. There are 50 fathoms of water in
the centre, and the soundings decrease on the approach to eitho; shore. During
our stay at the period of the equinoxes, wo experienced generally very fine
weather, with gentle land and sea winds from the N.E. and S.E., and no swell
to prevent a ship riding in safety, even in the bay, and the harbour of Endermo
is perfectly sheltered from all bad weather."

Mori Roads, on the southern shore at the entrance to Volcano Bay, affords
anchorage fairly sheltered, except with strong easterly winds, at abc at 2 cables
from the shore, in C fathoms. There is a breakwater for shelter of native craft
abreast the village. 'J'here are several other villages on the shores of the bay,
and from Oshambe, near the northern end, there is a road to Otatsuta on the

8C1

THE JAPANESE AECIIIPELAGO.

'■:■ I

r :i 1

N.W. coast. Mount Siribets, probably tho highest mountain in Yezo, lies
N.E. from Oshambc ; it is a very fine peak of conical shape, and appears to be
an active volcano. Yulap is a rather large Aino village, about 15 miles South
of Oshambe ; thence the coast curves to the S.E. to Yamakusanai, distant 6
miles, close to which, in a small valley about a quarter of a mile from the sea,
und 1 mile North of Yamakusanai, is an iron foundry. Iron sand is found in
abundance along the shore for miles, as far as Uomnnotoko volcano. Silver
and lead mines arc situated in the Yulap valley, about 14 miles from the sea,
and there are also petroleum springs near Yaniukusanui. Wasinoke, 1 1 miles
S.E. from Yamakusanai, is the largest village on tho shores of Volcano Bay ; it
is situated on the top of the cliffs.

Endermo Harbour, on tho northern side of the entrance to the bay, is about
3^ miles long and 1^ mile wide at its entrance between Daikoku sima and the
shore of the bay on the North. There is also a passage 4 cables wide South
of Daikoku sima, between it and the reefs oif Yetomo suki. The town of
Sinmororan stands at the head, towards which the shores are low and flat,
60 much so as to prevent boats landing within 100 yards; in all other parts
wood and water are procured with the utmost convenience. There is a road
hence to Sapporo, the nominal capital of Yezo. The chief export is fish and
edible seaweed. Inferior coal may be obtained in small quantities, and there
is telegraphic communication with Sapporo and Hakodate.

The small island near the head of the harbour was named Hans Olason
Island, from one of Broughton's seamen who was buried there ; the U.S.
Expedition found the Japanese officials had carefully preserved the grave.

Light. — On a point on the western shore is a small Fquare tower, from which
is shown ajixed briyht light, elevated 3.5 ft.

Kiumororan village, on the North side of the entrance, has a regular ser-
vice of boats between it and Sawara, on the southern shore of Volcano Bay.
West of Kiumororan the coast turns abruptly N. by W. towards Uszi volcano,
with its jagged peaks and steep slopes, situated 2 to 3 miles from the beach ;
it has two peaks and a smaller pinnacle, both peaks being active voleanos.

A range of hills, 1,800 to 2,000 ft. in height, with three remarkable peaks
on the highest ridge, indicates the situation of this harbour. In entering,
steer to bring Daikoku sima to bear N.E., and then for it, passing about 2
cables northward of the island. When it bears South, alter course to E. J S.,
until the lighthouse on the western shore bears South, when steer S. by E. i E.
for the bluff at the head of the harbour. Anchorage may be obtained in 3|^
to 5 fathoms, perfectly sheltered. It is high water, on full and change, at
4'> 35™ ; springs rise 5 ft.

From Endermo Harbour the coast trends about 35 miles to E.N.E. to the
villoge of Yubels, where deer are very abundant. About 10 miles inland is
the extinct volcano of Taromai. Urakatca Bay, about 50 miles to the south-
eastward, is an open anchorage, protected, however, from the S.E. by a reef.

jgg^gsmm

rs;jS6g5«imni!«-i-K

YKZO ISLAND— AKISIII BAY.

8G3

I Yezo, lies

ppears to bo

miles South

i, distant 6

rom the sea,

is found in

■ano. Silver

cm the sea,

ie, 11 miles

lano Bay ; it

)ny, is about
imn and the

wide South

lie town of
)w and flat,

other parts
•e is a road

is fish and
9i and there

Tans Olason
3; the U.S.
e grave.
, from which

regular ser-
''olcano Bay.
Iszi volcano,

the beach;
olcanos.
kable peaks
n entering,
ing about 2
3 to E. J S.,
f.byE.iE.
lined in 3J

change, at

N.E. to the
;s inland is
the south-
by a reef.

Beefs and rocky patches uUo extend off shore northward of the anchorage, and
great caution is rcquiied to (tuohor here. Between Yubets and Urakawa are
Saru and Su/sini, where coal is found.

Cape Terimo, the S.E. extremity of Yezo, in lat. 41° 56' N., long. 143° 16' £.,
is a rocky bluft', abuiil 80 ft. high, the South extreme of a plateau stretching
from the mountains. There are several pinnacle rocks close off the cape, and
a reef of rocks, 10 or 15 ft. high, extends five-eighths of a mile S.E. There
arc several fishing villages here, and with westerly winds fair anchorage may
be found on its eastern side.

Between Cape Yeriino and Akishi, a distance of nearly 00 miles, the coast
stretches about N.E., slightly curving back, then trending more to the east-
ward, with not even an indentation along it. Ktisuri, a Japanese fishing
Ectilcmcnt, lies 20 miles West of Akisbi ; there is anchorage off it, with tho
wind offshore.

Akishi Bay, the Bat/ of Good Hope according to Jansen's chart, is a large
basin of moderate depth of water, with a shallow lagoon at its northern end,
1'hcre is a fishing settlement here, and some of the best edible seaweed is
obtained in this neighbourhood. Wood and water are abundant.

The entrance, 1 j^ mile wide, lies between the Daikoku Islands on the North,
and the extremity of the reef extending 2 miles E. J S. from the South point.
The islands lie on a reef extending from the North shore. Near the North
end of the bay, and on its Enst side, is Conspicuous Bluff, 250 ft. high, about
2 miles West of which is a rocky reef half a mile long N.N.W. and S.S.E.,
dry at low water. The land in the vicinity appears perfectly flat, and is
thickly wooded. Two remarkable mountains are seen to the N.W., and others
to the N. by E.

The depth gradually shoals from 14 fathoms at the entrance to 3^ fathoms
West of a steep bluff on the East shore, just over the settlement, a distance of
b^ miles. In fine weather a convenient anchorage will be found in 7 fathoms
North of Daikoku simn, with Ko Daikoku sima bearing East. With S.E.
winds the best anchorage is in about 4 fathoms, in the N.E. part of the bay,
and with S.W. winds, in the S. W. bight of the bay North of the South entrance
point ; a good berth is in 5 fathoms, 7 cables from the shore. It is high water,
on full and change, at 6'' 30" ; springs rise 5 ft.

From Akishi the coast trends 7^ miles E.N.E. to a remarkable pinnacle
rock, about 80 ft. high, and from thence to Hamanaka or Kiritappu N.E. by E.,
6 miles ; the shore from Akishi, round Cape Noyshaf, to Nemoro, terminates
in dark cliffs, backed by wooded table-land.

Hamanaka Bay, in lat. 43° 5' N., is shallow, but it is a safe anchorage for
a small vessel, behind the island of Kiritappu sima. Facing the bay are the
islets Shiro iwa and Kuro iwa, connected by reefs.

The best entrance to this bay is between the rocks off the East point of
iiorth Pacijic, 5 3

166

THE JAPANESE ARCHIPELAGO.

1 •• '

.^; '

!i 1

Kiritnppu and the West extreme of Kuro iwa ; this possngc is about thice-
qunrtcrs. of a mile in width, Arith not less than 8 fathoms. Keep in mid-
channel, and round Kiritappu half a mile off, anchoring in 3^ to 5 fathoms,
three-quarters of a mile off the largo ficLic^ villagt; ou its low flat N.W. point.

From Hnmui.d^<\ the coast trends IC miles, H ^ N., to Cajie Um ; reefs aud
dangers are believed to exist 2 miles off this coast.

The coast hence to Capo Noyshaf, the East extreme of Yczo, trends about
N.£. by N., 18 miles, still gradually lo>roring and forming a narrow promon-
tory. Two islands, 4 to ^ '-.iilcs N.E. of Capa Usu, afford shelter behind them
for junks. liana Da'j, about 7 miles northward of Cape Usu, is about a mile
wide, and half a mile deep, and affords good shelter from W.S.W., round by
North, to I'<ast. There is nnchorago 3 cables westward of the liast point, in
G fathoms.

CAPE NOTSHAF, Noaayam, or liroughton* in about lat. 43° 27' N., long.
145° 50^' E., is only 40 ft. high, and should be approached with the greatest
caution, as reefs extend 2^ to 3 miles off its South side, showing only during a
southerly swell.

LIOHTHOUSE.— On the eastern extreme of Capo Noyshaf is a white hex-
agonal lighthouse, 35 ft. high, showing ajixed briyJU light, elevated 74 ft., and
visible 10 miles seaward between W. by N. J N. aud S.8.W.

Fo(j Siynal. — In foggy weather a Bell is sounded 1 2 times a minute, except
during February, when the light is not shown.

Botweci, Capo Noyshaf and Skotan Island, 50 miles to the north-eastward,
arc a group of ten barren and desolate islets, and numerous rocks and reefs,
named Waivis Islanda by De Tries, together extending about half-way from
the capo. Of these islands only Skotan and Sibutts or Taka sima have a few
Japanese settlers ou them. Numerous reefs and rocks extend eastward of
Cape Noyshaf, with a clear channel, Go-yo-mai Strait, between the western-
most reef aud the cape, 1^ mile in width. The dangers off the cape, and the
group of islands mixed up ^rith reefs and rocks, cause this narrow pass to be
most dangerous, and fogs coming on suddenly add much to the difficulty and
danger ; the currents also are strong. The channel, therefore, between Skotan
and Taroko, which is apparently clear of danger, is recommended inpiefcreuce.

Walvis Bay. — From Cape Noyshaf the coast trends West, 8 miles, to a
sharp rocky point, with a rock 2 cables off it, from which it trends S.W. by S.,
5 miles, to Nemoro, and for 5 miles beyond it. The coast then gradually
rounds to West, N.W., and North, which is its trend at Nishibets, and this
continues on to the curious hook-shaped spit of Notske, 8 miles N. by W. from
Nishibets. This large bight has a depth of not more than 16 fathoms in it, and
is known as Walvis Bay ; Krusenstern named it Laxvian Bay.

* Admiriil Krusenstein says; — "In honour of the English navigator who haa, with a
siit^tit cxcoption, made the circuit of the Coasts of Yeso, and first determined the geogra<
phiciil posilion ol it3 eaaterr oxtromit}, I bnvc named, it Cape Broufjhton."

YEZO ISI.AND.— NEMORO.

sot

nbout three*
eep ill inid-
5 fathoms,
N.W. point.
>u ; reefs and

trends about
■ow promon-
behind them
nbout n mile
,, round by
ast point, ia

27' N., long.

the greatest

)uly during a

1 white hex-
ed 74 ft., nnd

iuutc, except

rth-eastward,
ks and reefs,
ittlf-way from
la have a few
i eastward of
the western-
cape, and the
w pass to be
difficulty and
tween Skotan
inptufcreuce.
8 miles, to a
Is S.W. by S.,
len gradually
lets, and this
L by W. from
>ms iu it, und

ho has, with a
9(1 tho (jeogra-

NEHORO, the only plocc on the N.E. coast of Yczo with nny pretensions
to An anchorage, is in lat. 43" 20^' N., and is formed by a small island, Bentcn
lima, lying across a bay, and thus affording fair shelter for one Ycssel of light
draught. In the entrance midway between the island and point, 2 cables wide,
there is a depth of G fathoms, shoaling rapidly to 4 fathom.. Wood, water,
and fish are plentiful. The climate is cold, and fog is constant all the summer.
The land about Ncmoro is not more than 100 ft. in height; to the southward,
swamps and lagoons back the stony beach.

Light.— On the N.E. point of Benten sima njixed red light, elevated 75 ft.,
and visible 6 miles, is shown from a white mast 40 ft. high ; in February it is
not exhibited.

Nishihets liiver, though small, is a very important salmon river, and between
it andNenioro are several other fishing stations. In 18G9 not less than 1,000
tons of salmon were exported from this river.

A^olske SpH, in lat. 43° 33' N., is a low and flat wooded tongue of land

shaped like a hook, projecting about 6 miles from the land, and enclosing on

ts South side a shallow bay where only boats can float. There is a small

temple on its extreme S.E. edge. The anchorage off Notske affords shelter

from winds from the westward, but it is open to the East.

Shibets, 1 1 miles from Notske by sea, is a considerable fishing station at tho .
entrance of a river. The anchorage is open to the N.E., and but little wind
from that quarter, or East, produces a nasty sea. The country is very low and
fliit until past Shibets, from whence it rises suddenly into a grand lofty range
of mountoins, which terminate in Capo Sirotoko.

Cape Sirotoko, or Spanberg, the N.E. extreme of Yezo, is in lat. 44° 18' N.,
long. 145° 23' E. It has two remarkable points, one forming the eastern ex-
treme, the other the northern ; at 2 cables off the latter is a rock about 30 ft.
high.

YEZO STRAIT, separating Yezo from the island of Kunashir, is about 20
miles wide at either entrance, narrowing to 9 miles off Notske Bay ; at which
place a shoal ridge, having 10 fathoms deepest water, extends across the strait.
Northward of Shibets the water deepens quickly. Great caution is necessary
when proceeding through these straits, sudden patches of shoal water being
frequent. Between the S.W. point of Kunashir and Notske Spit the depth is
irregular, starting with 4 fathoms off the point, deepening to 6, shoaling again to
4, and again deepening to 11 fathoms at li^ mile off Notske Spit, at which dis-
tance, probably, the best channel runs through the straits. In December, ico
forms to a considerable distance from the shore.

The North Coast of Yezo, between Capes Sirotoko and Soya, trends about
200 miles to N.W. Its prominent features are : a high mountainous district
near Cape Sirotoko ; a low shore skirted with numerous lagoons u stward of
Share ; a high bluff near Yessasi ; and thence towards Soya a comparatively
low fir-wooded country. There is a total want of harbours along its entire

■■MMM

THE JAPANESE ARCHIPELAGO.

length, and no detailed survey has been mode. — (Captain T. Blnkiston.) In
winter the sea along this shore is said to be frozen for 6 or 8 miles out.

Share Bay is formed on the East by the high promontory of which Cape
Sirotoko is the extreme. At its head ia the village of Share, situated on the
bank of a river. There is said to be an extensive bed of pure sulphur near the
sen between Share and the cape. Inland, bearing S. ^ E. from 8hare, is a high
double-peaked mountain.

Ahashira, a, fishing station about 20 miles north-westward of Share, is
sittiatcd on tJie South shore of the bay, at tlic mouth of a river. Fronting the
village is a curious reef of rocks. Anchoi-age in 5 fathoms may be had with
ofF-ihorc winds on cither side of the reef. A bank of IJ^ fathoni extends from
the reef to the river. The country is of moderate height, 500 or GOO ft.

Fioni Abashira the coast trends northward for about 5 miles to Cape Notoro,
12 miles westward of which is Tokoro., a small fishing station at the mouth of
n river. About 2 miles westward of Tokoro is the outlet of the most extensive
lagoon on the whole coast, containing large oyster-beds. Yxtbets, a small
fishing station a short distance westward of the extreme Wobt end of the la-
goon, is situated in a .^^wampy district.

From Cape Notoro the coast trends N.W. by W. J W. for 44 miles to a low
point, just inside which is the settlement of Momlets, the head-quarters of the
district. With the wind off shore a vessel can anchor in 5 fathoms, 1 mile off
the settlement.

The coast from Mombcts to Cape Soya, a distance of 90 miles, trends about
N.W. by N. Smoaki is a small fishing station about 20 miles iS'.W. of Mom-
bcts. The coast between is fronted by a low sandy beach.

The coast N.W. of Sawaki is irregular and rocky, nnd skirted by reefs.
IJoronat, a small salmon fishing station, lies about 12 miles N.W. of Sawaki,
and Chuskiu Islet, about 1 mile off shore, lies 3 to 4 miles N.W. of it.

The West Coast of Yezo, from Cape Sirakami (p. 861) to Cape Nossyab, is
comparatively little known, and has but few good anchorages. The best is
Oterranai in Iskarri Bay, between which and Hakodate there arc no anchorages,
except with an off-shore wind, and then only at Sutt Bay and Cape Ilodgcrs.
Cape Ilodyers, or Su ne yo, a prominent, low, green point, in lat. 41^ 48' N.,
forms a bay on its North sJde, with convenient anchorage in 7 or 8 fathoms,
sheltered from N.E. or S.E. gales.

Tesasshi, in lat. 41° 52', is the principal town on this part of the coast, and
is said to contain 10,000 inhabitants. Off it lies Kamone sima, a small rocky
islet almost connected to the land by a sand-bank, forming an excellent shelter
for numerous junks. Larger vessels may anchor in 7 or 8 fathoms, with the
North end of Kamone sima bearing about S.W. ; they should, however, leave
if the weather threatens to be heavy from the westward. At 4^ miles north-
ward is the town of Odohe, ot 1 mile North of which is n white cliff 210 feet
high. Made iwa, 3 miles North of Odobe, is n dark pillar of rock, 70 ft. high.

'tJatA

-■■-"^'^-

MHHHMHHH

YEZO ISLAND -OKUSmi ISLAND.

869

Blakiston.) In
lilcs out.
of which Cnpo
situated on the
ulphur near the
Share, is a high

of £haro, is
Fronting the
y be had with
n extends from
or GOO ft,
Cape No/oro,
t the mouth of
most extensive
'ubeis, a small
end of the la-
miles to a low
quarters of the
oms, I mile off

s, trends about
N'.W. ofMom-

irtcd by reefs.
y. of Sawaki,
. of it.

[)e Nossyab, is
The best is
10 anchorages,
'ajjc Kodgcrs.
;• 41^ 48' N.,
)r 8 fathoms,

;ho coast, and
small rocky
client shelter
ms, with the
)wevcr, leave
miles north-
sliff 210 feet
, 70 ft. high.

Sihi no safii, 4 miles farther on, is a low, prominent point, at 1 mile North of
which, and close to the shore, is a round rock 35 ft. high. From Sibi no saki
the coast trends to tha N.N.W., for about 6 miles, to a white cliff, and is com-
posed principally of sandy beaches. At 4 miles westward is Seki nai no saki,
in lat. 42° 8', whence the bold coast trends N.N.W. for about 6 miles to Kudo
Bay. A rock, awash, lies 1 J mile North of Seki nai no saki, and half a mile
offshore. Kudo Buy has a white sandy beach, with anchorage in 8 to 10
fathoms Northward of Ota saki, 5^ miles N.W. of Kudo Bay, the coast is
very bold and precipitous, with deep water close-to, and backed by densely-
wooded mountains.

OEUSIRI ISLAND, 9 miles off the "West coast of Yezo, the channel between
being very deep, is for the most part densely wooded, and rises gradually to a
height of 1,955 ft. Between the summit and the North point are two moderately-
sharp peaks. From the northern peak the land declines gradually to the North
point, Gomiija saki, which is low and tapering, with a small round hillock, 237
feet high, about half a mile from the extrenio point. A reef extends about
half a mile off this point. The population, in 1881, was about 300 Japanese,
and a few Ainos, who earned a precarious livelihood by fishing.

The Fast coast of Okusiri is almost straight, and steep-to. The West coast
is rugged, and low rocks ejtteod nearly half a mile N.W. of the N.W. point.
A conical islet, 300 ft. high, lies near the South end of this coast, and rocks
also extend off the shore.

Awanai no saki, the South point of Okusiri, is low and tapering, curving
slightly to the eastward, and foul rocky ground extends 3 miles southward of
it, terminating in Morotsu no siina, a group of black lava rocks, about 25 feet
high, and surrounded by foul ground. These rocks should invariably be given
a berth of at least 2 miles.

On the eastern side of Awanai no sa^,;i is a bay, with a sandy beach, fronted
with shelving rocks, well protected from all winds between S.W. and North,
through West. Anchorage may be obtained in 8 to 10 fathoms, sand, with the
small temple, over the South end of the village, bearing about W.S.U". '>r
West. Fasterly winds send in a heavy sea. It is high water, on lull and
change, at S** SO"" ; springs rise about IJ foot. As a general rule there is a
steady set northward.

The Coast from Cape Ota, opposite the North end of Okusiri, is bold and
steep-to, and trends about N. i E., for 20 miles, to Cape Suisttki or Kutusoff;
thence it trends E.N.E., 20 miles, to Bekhei tnisaki, the West point of Sutt
Bay.

Sutt Bay, in lat 42*^ 48', is about 4 miles wide, and 3 miles deep. It is open
to winds between N.E. and N.W., but anchorage may be had in fine weather
cither at its heod, in 7 fathoms, at cables from the beach ; or on the western
shore off Sutt village, in about 1 3 fathoms, at SJ cables from the shore. The
distance across to the head of Volcano Bay is only about 13 miles.

-H

it?SS*SK.'Aaiai«t!i654a!.y -Bi-KKAC:

1 !

1 1-

870

THE JAPANESE ARCHIPELAGO.

Sim-tmku Bay lies 15 miles N.E. of Sutt Bay, a short distance northward
of an enormous cliff known as Raiten. There is a coal mine 5 miles inland
from the northern arm of the bay, where there is a fair anchorage, and lighters
can load easily. The coal, which is of good quality, is conveyed to the coast
on tramways. Off shore, 2 miles from the point dividing the bay into two
parts, is a sunken 6-ft. rock. The settlement Iicani is in an open bay, sheltered
only from easterly winds.

Cape Novosilzov, 22 miles North of Iwani, is the N.W. point of a high bold
promontory which projects 20 miles to the N.W. It is 15 miles across, and
its summit. Mount Shakotan, rises to a height of 4,287 ft. ; off the cape are
several rocks. At 7 miles E.N.E. is Cape Taka stma, the North extreme of
the promontory. To the N.E. of this promontory is the large bay named
Stroyonojfhy Capt. Kruscnstcrn in 1805. At Maloyama Bay, 9 miles S.E.
of Capo Taka sima, there is anchorage off the village, in 9 fathoms, at about
half a mile South of the N.W. point, open to the N.E. Small vessels can an-
chor farther in, in 7 fathoms.

LIOHTHOUSE. — Cape Skudutxs, or lUyori yama, is the termination of the
rocky ridge of Kawasiri yaraa, 1,215 ft. high. On it is a white lighthouse, 33
feet high, showing ajixed bright light, elevated 102 ft., and visible 17 miles
seaward between W.N.W. and S. J E.

Iskarri Bay is the large bay eastward of Cape Skudutzs. From Cape
Skudutzs the coast trends southward for 1^ mile, and then curves to the west-
ward and southward for 2^ miles, formiiig Tamiya and Otaru Hays, separated
by a sandy point with a hill over it 204 ft. high. There are villages on both
these bays, the important settlement of Otorranai being on the southern one.
This is the only safe anchorage on the N.W. coast of Yczo, and is the port of
T.skarri, the greatest salmon fishery in tlip island. The bay is open to the east-
ward, but is well sheltered between N.W. and S.E., and is at all times safe.
After rounding Cape Skudutzs, steer into the bay, bringing the caatcrnmost
bluff to bear N.E., or farther in for a smaller vessel. The great resource of
Otcrranai is iti herring fishery ; about 6,000 tons of herrings annually are
dried and exported. They are also boiled down for manure. Edible, ecawced
is also procured.

A wooden pier, 1,440 ft. long, runs out into a depth of 21 ft. water, along™
side which vessels can load and unload. From hence a railway runs to Sapporo,
22 miles inland, the nominal capital of Yezo. It thence extends to the Poronai
coal mines, a total distance of 56>i miles, completed in May, 18B3.

Iskarri is a fishing settlement about 15 miles East of Otcrranai, at the mouth
of the largest river in Yezo, and noted for its salmon. In summer there is a
depth of about 10 ft. on the bar; and inside there is 6 and 7 fathoms. Large
numbers of junks come here, over 3,000 tons of fish being exported annually.
The river is said to bo navigable for light-draught vessels a great distance. A
vessel may anchor outside the bar, much exposed to westerly winds. Fire-

YESO ISLAND -NIPON ISLAND.

871

wood can be ubtaiued iu any quantity, aud coal haa recently been discoveicd
in tbe vicinity.

P'rom Otei'zanai to Cape Nossyab, a distance of 155 miles, the coast is bold
and rocky, without a harbour or sheltered anchorage, but with numerous fish-
ing stations along it.' Northward of Iskorri, OS far as Cape Buyimawas, it is
for the most part high and precipitous. On the North side of Cape Kamoieio,
or O/'uwi, or Malasptna, 9 miles northward of Cape Buyimawas, is a lofty red
cliff. The shore, to about 2 miles West of Maski, is precipitous, but then be-
comes comparatively low. Maski is 12 miles N.E. of Cape Komoieto, and 10
miles farther on is Jiurotnopi, a considerable settlen\cnt, situated in a small bay
open to the N.W. Obiraspi River enters the sea about G miles North of Euro-
mopi; about 24 miles up it coal of an inferior quality has been found. Tomomai,
about 18 miles northward of Obiraspi Ilivcr, is a comparatively large settle-
ment situated at Shishkojf Point. Fttribets is an old fishing station, about
16 miles northward, and 10 miles fartlier on Wirnhets River enters the sea, the
coast between being low. Tlio coast from a short distance South of Wimbets
rises, and the shore is skirted by a straight line of yellow cliffs 200 to 250
feet high.

Yagisiri and Tarun Islands, lying at 13 and 18 miles N.W. from Tomomai,
are 354 and 577 ft. in lieight respectively ; there is said to be a small village
on one of them.

Teskitt Rivet; about 9 miles North of Wimbets, is a considera' stream,
with a fishing station about a mile South of its entrance. Ilenci u dreary
straight wooded coast extends northward as far as the high land a little South
of Bakai, a fishing station about 13 miles South of Cape Nossyab. Under-
neath a liill at the buck of liakai village is a peculiar rock on a hummock,
(iuantities of drift-wood are found along this shore, and a monster species of
crab is also to be met with about here. Enormous quantities of herrings are
caught iu spring.

CAPE NOSSYAB, or Romanzoff, and Cape Soya, at the North extremity
of Yezo, together with the Strait of La Porouse, which separates Yezo from
Saghuliu, have been described previously on pp. 755-7, with the islands of
Kefuusiri and lUsiri, lying to the westward.

v. I.

5. ;<■■.'*■

THE WEST COAST OF NIPON.

The West coast of Nipon is comparatively little known, and should there-
fore be navigated with necessary prudence and caution. The only parts at
present surveyed are the islands Sado, Awa siraa, and Tabu sima, and the
Ktrait between Sado and Niegatu, by H,M. ships Aclceon and Dove, in 1859.
The coast from Tsugar Strait (page 855) to Rokko aaki or Cape Noto has been
partially cxp'ored by the Bittern aud othcsr of Il.M. shijis, the llusaian gun-
vessel Djiijit, and H.M. surveying-vessel Saracen. The latter vessel also ex-

872

THE JAPANESE ARCHIPELAGO.

I, I

i:^ ! If

plorcd the coast between the western entrance of the Inland Sea and Takh
yama or Caiie Louisa, in lat. 34° 40' N.

The coast between Capo Louisa and Sado is not often even sighted by
European ships ; its coast-line has been taken from the Japanese manuscript,
and may, with the exception of possible dangers off it, be regarded as accu<
rately delineated.

The coast from Cape Yokoiso (p. 855) to Nipgnta, a distance of 180 miles,
trends duo South to Oga sima Peninsula in about lat. 40^ and thence takes a
general S.S.W. direction to Niugata. Anchorage may bo obtained with off-
shore winds at Sahata in ZH" 58' N., and at Hamo 11 miles southward. It is
also probable that there is shelter on cither side of Oga sima Peninsula.

BITTEEN KOCKS.— This group of three small rocks, two above water and
one awash, was discovered by H.M.S. Bittern, 8th July, 1855. They lie close
together, within the space of 2 cables, steep-to on their western side, having
15 and 17 fathoms at the distance of 2 cables, and no bottom with 140 fathoms
at 1 i^ mile. The rocks were covered with seals. The south-western or largest
rock, in lat. 40" 31' N., long. 139" 31' E., and lying W. by S, about 19 miles
from Cape Yokoiso or Gamaley, is about 12 ft. high, the smaller one lying
rather more than a cable to E.N.E., and the third rock, awash, lies to the S.E.

Tabu sima, about 10 miles off the coast, is in shape somewhat like a horse-
shoe, with a club at its N.E. end. It is nearly flat, varying from 120 to 150
feet in height, and is 1^ mile long N.E. and S.W., its widest part, the N.E.
end, being not quite a mile across. The island is surrounded by detached
rocks, e.\cept on its S.E. side. No supplies could be obtained, except a few
fish ; the inhabitants export large quantities of dried squid. Springs of ex-
cellent water abound. Observatory Hock, off its East extreme, is in latitude
39* 11' 53' N., long. 139° 34' 17" E.

I'he ActcBon anchored in 25 fathoms off the bay on tlic S.E. side, with the
South extreme of the island bearing S.W. by W. i W., and Observatory Rock
N.N.E. The gun-vessel Djiyit anchored in the same bay in 9 fathoms, coral.
It affords shelter from all winds prevalent in the Japan Sea.

Awa sima, the N.E. extreme of which is in latitude 38" 29' 36" N., long.
139° 16' 7" E., is a narrow island running N.N.E. and S.S.W., and reaching
ot its southern extreme an elevation of 680 ft. It lies about 10 miles off the
coast, and is 3| miles in length, and nearly a mile in breadth, the widest part
being in the centre, where, on the East shore, is a fishing village, while
another stands at the South end of the other shore, in a small bay protected
by a natural breakwater. The S.E. side is fringed with a narrow bank of
soundings, the only anchorage ; the remainder of the island is bordered by
reefs and rocks. At nearly a mile N.N. W. of the North point is a dangerous
rock, on which the sea sometimes breaks. The inhabitants were, as well as at
Tabu sima, very civil. Nothing but fish could be obtained.

SADO ISLAND, lying 25 miles westward of the important trading port of

NIPON ISLAND— NIEGATA.

873

ea and Takk

; trading port of

Niegata, is 33J miles long, N.N.E. and S.S.W., nearly 17 miles at its widest
part, and is composed of two parallel mountain ranges lying N.W. and S.E. of
each other, the neck of land joining them being a plain, on the N.E. and S.W.
sides of which arc formed two extensive open bays. A remarkable sharp
conical hill, 700 ft. high, stands on a flat off the North extreme of the island,
and from a distance looks like an isolated rock. To the northward of this are
a few detached rocks close to the she:": and one off Ya, JVa, or Iladihi sakt,
the N.E. point of the island, which is in lat. 38° 19' 55" N., long. 138^ 30^ E.

This latter point rises somewhat abruptly, and attains an elevation of 3,800
fc(<t, from which the land, descending slightly, runs in rocky ridges to the
S.S.W. for 10 miles, and terminates in a sharp nipple 4,500 ft. high, whence
it descends in a gentle uniform slope to the southward. The shores are generally
cliffy and stcep-to, a berth of three-quarters of a mile clearing all known
danger. The West point of the island has a bold, clean shore, whence the
coast recedes round Sawa-umi Bay to the S.E., and is low. There are numerous
fishing villages along the western shores, and a few boat harbours were seen.
At Aikawa are some gold and silver mines.

The bend in the coast-line on the N.E. side of the island forms an extensive
bay called Minato-viats, which affords anchorage in 12 to 16 fathoms, sheltered
from E. by S., round South and West, to North. The town of Yehisu or
Ibcsso lies at its head ; a small light is shown here. A conspicuous rock, 60
feet 'ligh, called Sha, marks Okawa Point, the South extreme of this bay.
Ercsh beef may be obtained here. It is high water, on full and change, at 5'' ;
springs rise 2 feet.

Anchorage will also be found off Oda village, a quarter of a mile S.S.W. of
Matsuga saki, a low projecting tongue of shingle, bearing S.W. by S. ^ S.,
distant lOJ miles from Okawa Point, but it is open, and the water deep. Oyi
Bay, on the East side of Sawa saki, only affords anchorage for small craft.

A few fowls, some fish, and vegetables were obtained by the Actaon during
her stay at Sudo. Firewood may bo obtained, but it is supposed not in suffi-
ccnt quantities for steaming purposes. Nearly every little valley has its stream
of excellent water flowing down to the beach. Coal is not known.

NIE6ATA, — The city of NiUgata stands on the left bank of, for Japan, a
rather large river, the Shinano gawa, with 4 fathoms water within the entrance;
but at present a bar closes it to vessels of over 7 or 8 ft. draught. In fresh
breezes from seaward the sea breaks across the entrance, and at that time not
even a boat could cross the bar without risk. The roadstead off the mouth is
quite exposed, and the holding ground bad.

Niigata, one of the ports open by treaty to foreign trade, is the most opu-
lent city on the West coast of Nipon. It contains about 38,000 inhabitants,
and appears to absorb nearly the whole junk trade of that side of the island,
but it is not adapted for foreign vessels. Supplies of all kinds may be obtained
North facijic, 5 x

m««

' ' !■

874

THE JAPANESE ARCHIPELAGO.

!: I

■1 !

here, but the water is bad. The best landing place for boats is near the light-
house.

LIGHTHOTTSE. — On the West side of the river entrance is a black light-
house, 52 ft. high, showing & fixed bright light, elevated 69 ft., ond visible 9
miles. Lot. 37° 56' 26" N., long. 139° 3' 56" E. It is reported as not always
to be depended on.

The city, which is of great extent, is intersected by canals crossed by bridges,
their banks shaded by weeping willows. It is surrounded by gardens of pear
trees, peaches, vines, and vegetables, and is situated on an extensive alluvial
plain, intersected by many rivers, which fall near the coast into the Sinano
gawa, which takes its rise about 1 20 miles to the southward. This low coast
extends for 42 miles, and presents an even appearance, dotted with trees and
houses. When bearing South, or S.S.W., it is seen clearly intersected by the
river entrance, filled with junks ; from other directions their mast-heads are
visible over the land, one fleet of them lying just within the entrance, and
another more to the southward, off the city. Farther to the East, on a small
elevation, is seen the town of Aosima yama, and high mountains rise inland.

Soundings reach to a considerable distance off the mainland in the vicinity
of Niegata ; vessels, therefore, running between Sado and Nipon at night, or
in a fog, should keep the lead quickly hove. Should soundings be obtained and
decrease gradually, the mainland is being approached. A run of very deep
water will be found on the Sado side of the channel.

The U.S.S. Shenandoah, Commodore J. E. Gouldsborough, anchored off the
city in 1867, in 10 fathoms, mud and fine black sandy bottom. A depth of 7
fathoms is found at a mile from the bar.

Anchorage. — No vessel, except a powerful steamer, could, during the autumn
or winter months, remain at anchor off the port, as gales of wind, commencing
at S.W. and veering to N.W., rapidly succeed each other, and send in such a
heavy sea that no ground tackle could be depended upon, and the holding
ground is very indifferent. Under these circumstance, the most prudent course
to adopt would be to anchor under shelter of Sado, and await a favourable
opportunity, or have the cargo transported to or from Niegata in junks or
light-draught steamers.

The bar is formed by a shifting sand-bank, extending from half a mile to a
mile off the land. In 1867 the bar had two boat channels; the one to the
East is ''oepest, with 8 ft. at low water. It is proposed to improve the en-
trance by forming two channels 600 ft. long and 21 ft. wide, with a depth of
18 ft. at low water.

From the mouth of the river, which is about 3 cables wide, the left bank is
sandy, and first turns S.S.W. and then S.W. up to the city. The right bank
is sandy at the entrance, then marshy, but steep ; it trends S.E by S., and then
runs parallel to the left bank. The broadest part of the river is 6 cables, oppo*
site the second bend. The current ran 2^ knots.

NIPON ISLAND-TOYAMA BAY.

875

lear the light-
black light-
land visible 9
I as not always

led by bridges,
irdens of pear
insive alluvial
:o the Sinano
[This low coast
ith trees and
[rsected by the
last-hcads are
entrance, and
iist, on a small
rise inland.
n the vicinity
n at night, or
e obtained and
of very deep

lehored off the
A depth of 7

ing the autumn
1, commencing
end in such a
d the holdins
)rudent course
'' a favourable
a in junks or

If a mile to a
he one to the
prove the en-
h a depth of

le left bank is
e right bank
' S., and then
cables, oppo.

Tides. — For the distance of 4 miles a strong indraught, on the flood tide, is
experienced off Nii'gata, greatly to the inconvenience of sailing vnssels seeking
an offing. The ebb would assist them off the land. It is high water, on full
and change, at 3** 10; springs rise 1^ foot.

The town of Aosima yama stands near the embouchure of a river, which also
has a bar carrying only 7 ft. It is said to be 6 miles N.E. of Nii'gata, but is
only half that distance, according to the Japanese manuscript.

From Nii'gata to Toyama Bay, 120 miles to the S.W., the coast has not been
surveyed. At 15 miles S.W. \ W. from Nii'gata the low shore terminates at
Kadota-yama Head, 4 J miles North of a spur of the fine peaks of Yahiko yama,
which has the appearance of a blunt cone sloping on the West. A mile to the
South the peak of Kauriko yama rises to a higher elevation.

TOYAMA BAY.— The coast to the S.W. of Yahiko yama is very high, es-
pecially near this bay, where the three snowy peaks of the Sa-yama Mountains
oppear above the clouds. Ilokko saki or Cape Note is the western point of
entrance to this extensive bay, which is broadly open to the North and N.E.
Thfc DJigit passed along its eastern and southern shores, both of which are very
populous. Some rivers flow into the bay, but having bars they are not acces-
sible to ships. All the anchorages off the villages are more or less exposed to
winds from the northward. The River Gensiti gatca, on which the town of
Toyama stands, has a bar of 7 ft. water completely across it. This bay is in
every respect inferior to the roadstead off Niegata, and with strong northerly
winds more difficult to quit.

On the western shore of the entrance to the Imiztt gawa, 7 miles westward
of the Gensiu gawa, stands the town of Ftis/iiki, Honotsu, or Shinminato, off
which there is anchorage with off-shore winds, in G fathoms, on a bank extend-
ing about a mile from the shore. Vessels should not anchor with the lighthouse
bearing westward of S.W., as the bank is very steep-to. There is good an-
chorage in 5 fathoms with the lighthouse bearing S.W. by S. ^ S., distant about
three-quarters of a mile.

The LIGHTHOUSE, on the N.W. side of the entrance, is a white hexagonal
building, 38 ft. high, showing a Jixed bright light, elevated 38 ft., and visible
10 miles.

Nanao Harbours, on the West side of Toyama Bay, are formed by a large
bight, which is divided into two inlets by the large island Notojima or Sitna-
no-chi, lying East and West. North Harbour is easy of access, and clear of
dangers, affording excellent shelter in either of the inner bights in its N.W.
corner ; the entrance is about 1 J mile wide, but a bank of 6 to 9 fathoms lies
immediately outside it. South Harbour, though wide and capacious, is muck
encumbered with reefs, and its entrance, which is from half to three-quarters
of a mile wide, is much contracted by several rocky shoals. In the middle of
the outer part of the entrance is a rocky bank of 8 to 6 fathoms, outside which,
in 9 fathoms, a vessel can temporarily anchor to obtain a pilot.

I'l i

ill!"

87G

THE JAPANESE AECHIPELAGO.

I 1

Miyose Roch, with onlj' 2 ft. on it, lying North of the centre of the channel,
is the principal danger, and must be left on the port hnnd on entering. Two
reefs, each 1 cable long, and with 6 ft. water on them, are said to lio 5 miles
East of the entrance. The town of Nanao is situated in the extreme southern
ongle of the bay, and in the main channel the soundings gradually decrease
from 14 fathoms at the entrance to the anchorage off the town. A ship-yard
was being built to the eastward of the town, and there arc some small iron-
works here.

Two small islands, Ojima 3 ft. and Mejima 9 ft. above water, lie about 2
miles from the town. There is deep water to the eastward of them, but
W.N.W. from Ojima, the western one, a IG-ft. shelf extends 5J cables. By
keeping the western shore on board on entering, and passing about a quarter
of a mile from the only bluff point on the western side, the water will shoul
gradually from 7 to 4 fathoms, mud. The rise of tide is very insignificant.

There are no peculiar features of the coast, or landmarks, to denote these
cutrnnces from seaward. They may, however, be readily seen by their open
space.

Directiont.— To enter, bring the middle of the southern entrance to bear
\V. by S. J S., and then run for it. After entering the channel, keep close
over to the North shore, running parallel to a line passing through Channel
Bluff and Matsu saki, which will be a course about W. by S. J S. ; but do not
get inside the bight between the two points, for there is a 3-ft. shoal there
bearing S. by W. from a small village. In passing through the channel South
of Channel Bluff, between Fairway Bank and Fukura saki, borrow on the
northern side, which may be approached quite closely, and steer in towards
the harbour S.W. by W. i W. From Channel Bluff steer S.W. by W. i W.
until the North side of the square cliff (Ota) is in line with the East end of
Mejima, then steer S.W. ^ W. until the North end of the square cliff is in
line with the centre of Ojima, when steer S. i E. until the centre of Ota bears
E. ^ N., where a good anchorage will be found in 4^ fathoms, about the centre
of the harbour. The danger to be avoided in entering this harbour is a 16-ft.
spot 850 yards from Ojima, and in line with that island and the North end of
Ota Cliff. — Commodore Gouldshorough, U.S.N.

BOKKO SAKI, Cape Note, or lioiven, the northern point of Noto Penin-
Bula, is elevated about 700 or 800 ft., the land rising 1,200 to 2,000 ft. to the
westward of it. At 12 miles W. by S. from the cape is a remarkable white
cliff that shows well to the westward; from this cliff the coast bends in to the
southward and forms Waistma Bay, The opposite point of the bay is about
8 miles distant, and immediately above it is the sharp peak of Wasiau t/ama,
2,000 ft. high, the highest point in the neighbourhood, the land being generally
level, and of the uniform height of about 800 or 1,000 ft. At 10 miles W. by S.
from Waisima, or 30 miles W. by 8. from Capo Noto, the coast at Isonoiu, a
prominent projecting hill, 800 ft. high, trends away sharply to the southward.

NIPON ISLAND-TSURUGA BAY.

877

chnnncl,
iig. Two
I 5 miles
southern
decrease
ship-ynrd
nail iron-

LIOHTHOTJSE.— On Rokko siiki is n \rhitc lightliouse, 2G ft. higli, showing
u fixed bright light, elevated 152 ft, and visible 18 miles seaward between
W. by N. and S.K. i S. Lnt. 37" 30' N., long. 137° 19' E.

Hime iima Reef, south-eastward of Rokko saki, is about 3 cables long, N.E.
nnd S.W., part being above water, hono aima, the S.W. rock, lying nearly 5
cables E. by N. from Ai saki. Aroostook Reef, a dangerous reef, lies nearly
N.W. by N. i N., 10 miles, from Ilokko saki, with the northern Astrolabe
Rock bearing W. J S. Another reef is reported to lie 6 miles to W.N.W.

Yutsi sima, in lat. 37" 60f N., long. 136" 55' E., is 40 ft. high, about two-
thirds of a mile in diameter, level, and cultivated ; there are a few stunted
trees on it, imd a small village on its southern side.

Nana sima, or Astrolabe Rock, in hit. 37" 35' N., long. 136" 54' E., is 200 ft.
high, and about a quarter or a third of a mile in diameter ; it is the largest and
highest of a group of five rocks, which extend nearly H mile N.E. and S.W.,
and vary from 200 to 70 ft. in height. A sunken 3-ft. ledge is said to lie be-
tween Astrolabe Rocks and Waisima, 2^ miles from the latter.

Mikuni Boads, about 75 miles to the S.S.W. of Isonosu, is in lat. 36" 13' N,,
long. 136° 8^ E., there being no known anchorage between. The U.S.S.
Shenandoah came here in 18G7.

The approach to Mikuni Roads is bold to within half a mile from the shore,
when ihe soundings vary from 9 to 6 fathoms.

The anchorage in the Outer Roads is exposed from S.W., round West, to
North, but completely sheltered from all other winds. To reach the cest an-
chorage, bring the West end of Ajima or Assinia Island to bear North, nn 1
then steer North until the mouth of Mikuni River (which is easily distinguishcfi)
bears E.S.E., when 7 fathoms will be found ; bottom sand and hard mud, guod
holding ground. The course can then be laid E.S.E., steering for the entrance,
and, as the soundings decrease gradually, suitable water may be found for uu
anchorage. There is apparently deep water off the West side of Ajima.

The town of Mikuni or Sakiura is said to contain about 10,000 inhabitants,
exporting silk and dried fish. It is situated on the right bank of the river,
about half a mile from its mouth ; the bar has only 6 ft. at low water, and the
tide rises about 2 ft.

WAKASA BAY, an opening 25 miles wide, commences at 1 8 miles beyond
Mikuni. At its S.E. angle is Tsuruga Bay, and in the S.W. angle is Myadsu,
both visited by the Shenandoah in 1867. Some of the numerous inlets afford
safe nnd sheltered anchorage.

TSUBUQA BAY is a large inlet, which extends to within 10 miles of Biwn
Lake with which it is connected by railway. Thence a line of steamers runs
to Otsu at the southern end, the terminus of the railway from Kobe and Osaka.
The American directions follow.

This harbour is very easy of ingress and egress, and, so far as is known, free
from rocks. No soundings under 13 fathoms until you get well in the harbour;

878

THE JAPANESE ARCHIPELAGO.

i; * ■

the western shore should be avoided. During autumn and winter a heavy swell
sets in when the wind is from the northward and westward. The land around
is high.

LIGHTHOUSE. — On Tate-ishi no ham, the western point of the entrnncc,
is a granite lighthouse, 18 ft. high, showing a fixed briyht light, elevated 407
feet, and visible 20 miles seaward between S.W. by W. J W. and S.E. J S.
Lot. 35° 47' 30" N., long. 136° 58' E.

The town of Tsuruga, at the head of the bay, contains about 15,000 in-
habitants, and exports dried fish and rice. Good lime is made in tho neigli-
bourhood.

Approaching Tsuruga Bay from the northward, steer so as to bo distant G
miles from tho North end of Tama gawa when it is brought in line with Ibo
Point; then steer S.E. ^ S. until a triangular white cliff, to the left of the town,
is opened, when bring it to bear S. ^ £., and then steer for it until the first
prominent point on the eastern side of the bay is brought to bear E. by N. :^ N. ;
then steer S. ^ W. to the anchorage. The best anchorage is in Joyo Bay,
N.W. of the town, in 9 or 10 fathoms. There is also less sheltered anchorage
at about one-third of a mile from the shore, off the town. It is high water, on
full and change, at 1** 30*" ; springs rise 2 ft.

In Wurasvga Bay, a narrow inlet about 2 miles S.E. of the lighthouse,
small vessels may anchor, perfectly sheltered.

Ohama Harbour, the entrance to which is in long. 135° 44^' E., is 1^ mile
wide. It is an extensive sheltered sheet of water, 3 miles deep, and over 7
miles wide, the depths shoaling evenly to 3 fathoms half a mile off the town,
on the East shore. The best anchorage is under the cistern entrance point, in
11 fathoms, or with the entrance of Ohama River bearing S.E. by S. J S.,
distant 1 mile. A small fixed bright light is shown on the North side of the
river entrance.

Sira saka, the next large inlet West of Ohama, is safe as far as at present
known, but it has not been surveyed.

MITADSU, in lat. 35° 32' N., long, about 135° 10' E., is a magnificent
harbour, affording shelter for the largest vessels, and easy of ingress and egress.
It is an inlet 5 miles in length, with an average width of over 1 mile, having
deep water close along its shores. The depths shoal very gradually from 20
fathoms off the entrance to 8 and 10 fathoms, mud bottom, at its head, 2 or 3
cables off the town of Miyadsu. A mid-channel course will lead in clear of
danger. The town contains about 12,000 inhabitants. Silk is manufactured
iu the neighbourhood, and this is a greai mart for dried fish.

At 3 miles inside the entrance the western shore is formed by a narrow
\^-oodcd spit of sand, which extends southward for 1^ mile towards the high
land North of the town, enclosing behind it a deep lagoon, but the entrance
has only 6 ft. water in it. Spring tides only rise 1 foot.

Fort Ine, 4^ miles North of Miyadsu, is a well-sheltered little anchorage,

NIPON ISLAND— OKI ISLANDS.

•70

Lay,

•bout half a milo across. Ao lima, a small island, lies at the entrance, and
has deep water on both sides ; the eastern channel is only about 1 00 rarda
wide, but the western one is IJ cable wide. There is anchorage, in 10 fathoms,
about 1} cable from the western shore. The water on the eastern shore is
inconveniently deep.

The land hereabout appears high, and of a uniform appearance. Okino titna
are a good landmark ; the southernmost bears N.K. ^ E., distant about 8 miles
from the entrance to Myadsu Harbour.

OKI ISLANDS consist of one large and a group of three smaller islands,
separated by an open and apparently safe channel, with a number of islets and
rocks, occupying an extent of 23 miles, N.E. and S.W.

Ofci stma, the N.E. and largest island, about 10 miles in diameter, and 3,000
feet high, has some detached high rocks close to its cliffy northern point. Its
S.W. extreme terminates in a high steep bluff, but its S.E. point is compara-
tively low. No sign of tolerable anchorage was observed oil along its western
shore. Saigo Harbour, on its S.E. side, affords excellent shelter. The entrance,
only 1^ cable wide, is quite free from danger, and inside it the harbour opens
into two inlets, the northern one having depths of 20 to 14 fathoms. Tho
western inlet can only be entered by very small vessels.

The group of three islands is about 9 miles in diameter, and probably good
anchorage may be found, as there are deeply-indented bays. The North point
of Nisi sima, the westernmost, rises to a sharp peak 1,700 ft. high. The other
two are about half that height. They appear to be thickly populated, and tho
hills are cultivated to their summits.

Mikn ura, in long. 133° 20', affords excellent anchorage in 9 fathoms, mud,
sheltered from all but easterly winds.

Mino >ima is in lat. 34° 45^^' N., long. 131° T E., and 20 miles distant from
the northern coast of the province of Naguto, which forms the foot of Nipon.
Its highest part, elevated 492 ft., is in the centre of its West side. Its sides
appear steep and cliffy, except on the N.E., where there is a sandy bay. A
large square rock lies half a cable off its eastern point, and there is an islet
on its N.W. side.

Taka yama, or Cape Louisa, 24 miles E. by S. f S. from Mino simn, is a
remarkable sharp peak, 1,680 ft. high, with a lower peak on its N.E. slope,
and an islet off its North point. Aston liocks, two in number, lie nearly 1^
mile off it.

NATSTJNOir SAKI, or Square Rook Point, is the northern extremity of
the western prolongation of the toe of Nipon ; it is 34 miles W. by S. f S.
from Taka yama, and 30 miles northward of the western entrance of the Inland
Sea. It appeared to be about 700 ft. high, with a nippled outline, bordered
by high cliffs on the North, and slightly tapering towards the sea, where it
was about 500 ft. in height. It may be easily known by the remarkable square
rock or head springing from its base, and which, being entirely detached from

880

TDE JAPANESE ARCHIPELAGO.

the high land of the point, gives it the appearance of an island. Seen at the
distance of 24 miles from the N.E., it assumes the appearance of gently-shelving
tiible-land, having three or four large notches, the sharp cone of Aoumi sima
nnd the distant summit of Kabuto yama showing to the eastward. The former,
a sharp and remarkable cone 700 ft. high, marks the eastern point of the deep
bay of Fukugawa.

Ai sima, or Richards Island. — Between Natsungu saki and Taka yama
there is a large bay, with many isiluids in it, generally about 200 ft. high, and
flat-topped, with cliffy inaccessible slides. The largest are Ai sima and () sima.
Ai sima, the outer, is midway between the obovc capes and just within the
chord of the bay ; it is elevated 300 ft., having a flat-topped hill in its centre.
O sima, 5 miles East of Ai sima, is 400 ft. high, but longer and flatter.

Ilaki or Ilangi Day. — The anchorage off the large town is bad, being open
to the West, but good shelter may bo found in 9 fathoms inside the North
head, N.E. of the town.

Aoumi sima, 4^ miles in length. East and West, is 10 miles East of Natsungu
saki, its western point being the shaip cone before alluded to. On the Ja-
panese chart there is represented between this island and the coast, a finely-
sheltc'.cd and capacious harbour called Misumi, accessible by a broad channel
from the eastward, and by a narrow channel from Fukugaina Hay.

Igama Bay is an inlet extending 7 miles in an easterly direction on the
South side of Natsungu saki, shoaling gradually from 20 fathoms at its en-
trance to 5 and 7 fathoms about a mile from its head. Some islets and rocks
extend half a mile westward of its North entrance point, Funa sc, awash at
high water, lying 4^: cables South of it. In entering, keep in mid-channel,
and do not approach the shores on either side within half a mile. Aburatuni
Harbour, at the N.W. corner of the bay, affords good sheltered anchorage in
6 to 10 fathoms, mud, off the village of 0-ura, half a mile N.W. of Ye-no sima
Islet. There is also good anchorage 1 ^ cable North of the islet. It is high
water, on full and change, at lO"" 25'"; springs rise 3J ft., neaps 2 ft.

Tsu-no or Eado sima {Double Wedge Island of Richards), 1 mile westward
of the South entrance point of Igama Bay, is connected with the shore by a
shallow neck of sand, with a high islet midway between. It is 2J^ miles long,
E.N.E. and W.S.W., and of very peculiar formation as seen from the North,
being divided nearly equally into two very flat quoins, the points of the wedges
being both to the westward, and their steep falls to the East. On the S.E.
side is a village and pier, but foul ground exists hereabout. The North point
is low and smooth, with rocky patches extending about half a mile off it.

LIGHTHOUSE.— On the N.W. point of Tsu-no sima is a granite tower, 100
feet high, showing a flashing An"^/*/ light every 10 seconds, elevated 142 ft., and
visible 18 miles seaward between S. ^ £. and N.E. by E.

About 4i miles N.W. by N. J N. from the lighthouse, and 9 miles E. J N.
irom Square Kock Point, is the North end of a bank of broken shells, sand,

:M^

KIUSIU I8LAND-0KNKAI NADA.

and stone, having hero n depth of IG fathoms. Tlio bank is said to trend
towards the lighthouse, and to be connected to the point on which it standi,
and there may be less water on it than is known. In the wi'.'or, during N.W.
gales, a heavy sea .'uns on it, and many junks have foundered there.

From Tsu-no sima the coast trends southward to the entrance of Simonoscki
Strait (page 789), which is approached by a very even and gradually decreasing
depth. The shore should be given a berth, as, where surveyed or seen, it
was found to be very rocky.

THE WEST COAST OF KIUSIU.

K0T8TJ SIMA, or Colnott Island, lies in Korea Strait, nearly midway be-
tween Tsu sima and Simonofjeki Strr ' t. It is a mile wide at its broadest pnrt ;
iU sides are steep, with a high eliii at the N.E. point, and rises with slight
irregularities to a central peak 800 ft. high. Four notched rocks or islets, 80
feet high, lie 4 cables S.E. by S. of the South point.

Ore no sina, or Obree Island, iu hit. 33" 52' N., long. 130^ IJ' E., and 37
miles ^V, by S. of Siro simn, is a double-topped island, the southern ond higher
hill li ''v; 76 ft. high. It is about a mile in diameter, and steep-to, with a
few wretched inhabitants. There appear to be no dangers between this islan I
and Colnett, Iki, Tsu sima, and the entrance of the Inland Sea.

Kosime no oosima, or Wilson Island, and the coast thence eastward to
Simonoseki Strait, is described on pages 789 — 790.

GENKAI NADA is the sea comprised between Iki Island, Oro no sima,
Wilson Island, and the mainland. The numerous islands within it arc generally
safe of approach, and the western portion is singuh'.rly free from danger. Not
so its eastern part, where lie three very dangerous tidal and sunken rocks. The
soundings appear very even, 20 to 30 fathoms, except in the vicinity of these
rocks ; the bottom is generally sandy.

A steamer taking this route only effects a saving of 8 or 10 miles, but a
sailing vessel proceeding to the southward would benefit considerably by keep-
ing inshore in the Genkai Nada out of the north-easterly current, and taking
advantage of the tides, Avhich arc pretty regular, by dropping a kedge when
unable to make way. At night the light on Yebosi sima is a good guide. The
flood streams meet ofiPHakosaki; at springs the velocity is 1^ knot.

The Coast, — From Katsurl saki, southward of Wilson Island, the hills gra-
dually increase in elevation to the double peaks over Kanega saki, eastward of
Wilson Island, but high mountains are seen in the interior. Southward of
Katsura said, oflP which is a small islet with a single tree on it, the coast is
moderately low and wooded, to Chi-a saki, and thence a low strip of sand-hills
terminates in the North entrance to Ilakosaki Iky. Ten fathoms should be
the least water when nearing this part of the coast. The sharp double-peaked
}forth Pacific, # V

T^n

^fi

ill

■'\l''

■m

J' ■

I' I

!!!'!

ilil

1 1

882

THE JAPANESE AliOHIPELAGO.

hill Tatchi yama, 1,335 ft, high, ovcrlookbg the head of Hakosaki Bay, is
conspieuoits along this coast.

Ai sima, 8J miles S.S.W. of Wilson Island, is a table-land, 240 ft. high,
with bluffs to seaward, on which was a single tree. The island is about 2
miles round, and steep-to, having a bay on its South side which would afiTord
fair shelter to a vessel from almost all winds ; the depth, however, is great,
and anchorage in 10 fathoms is close to the shore. On the eastern end of the
island is a hummock, which from a distance looks like an island. At 1^ cable
off the East point is an arched rock.

Kuri no kami, or Swain Rnef, a dangerous cluster of rocks, is about 3
cables in extent, some of them always showing above water. It lies 5 miles
N.W. by W. i W. from Ai sima, and llj miles E.S.E. of Oro no sima, and is
the principal danger to navigation in this locality.

Jfagamo or Ellis Reef, lying S.W. | W., 8^- miles, from Swain Reef, lies
more out of the fairway of vessels making a direct course through the Genkai
Nada. It bears E. ^ N., 8 miles, from Yebosi sima, and W. by N., 3J miles,
from Too-dai Rock off Genkai sima. It never quite imcovers, but in bad
weather the heads of the rocks are seen. At three-quarters of a mile S.S.E.
of the reef is a patch of rocky ground, with soundings of 4 to 10 fathoms.

Nooze or Dove Beef, which shows some rouud boulder-heads, is 3 miles
S.W. by S. of Ellis Reef. It is 2\ cables in extent, and may be passed at half
a mile on the outside in 18 to 20 fathoms, fine sand

YEBOSI SIMA, or Cone Islet, 25 miles S.W. by W. | W. from Wilson
Island, is situated in the centre of the southern portion of the Genkai Nada,
and is a most useful guide to avoid the dangers above described. It is formed
of basalt, extraordinarily contorted, and is 160 ft. high, and quite steep-to.
The rocks between it and Iki sima are described hereafter (page 884).

LIGHTHOUSE.— On the summit of Yebosi sima is an octagonal white light-
house, 57 ft. high, showing & fixed bright light, elevated 182 ft., and visible 20
miles. Lat. 33° 41' 30" N., long. 129° 58' 50" E.

HAKOSAKI BAY extends about 10 mUes eastward, with a width of 3
miles. The entrance, between Genkai sima and Siga sima, is about 2 miles
wide, a considerable sea rolling in with uorthcrly winds. Genkai */»»«, or
Heed Island, is a round-topped island, 723 ft. high, with a bank of 2 to 5
fathoms extending from its southern side, leaving a narrow channel of S to 7
fathoms between it and the land. Two small islets lie on the West end of
this bank, and a rock lies to the S,E. of them. Too-dai, a, niue-pin-shaped
rock, lies 3 J cables W.N.W. of the ishmd. Siga sima, on the Ea.st side of the
entrance, is a rocky island, 1^ mile long, with a ridge of wooded hills, and a
grassy peak 636 ft. high. A narrow sand-bank, uncovered at low water, con-
nects its S.E. point with the shoxe. Dangerous rocks extend 8^ cables W. by
N. i N. from its N.W. point.

The bay is divided into two parts by Noko-no sima, a long narrow wooded

KIUSIU ISLAND-GENKAI NADA.

88&

cosaki Bay, is

210 ft. high,
lid is about 2

would afford
ever, is great,
era end of the
At IJ cable

ks, is about 3
t lies 5 miles
ao sima, and is

rain Reef, lies
ii the Genkai
N., 3i miles,
rs, l)ut iu bad
f a mile S.S.E.
fathoms,
ids, is 3 miles
J passed at half

from Wilson

Genkai Nada,

I. It is formed

quite steep- to.

3 884).

aal white light-
, and visible 20

a width of 3
about 2 miles
'enkai sima, or
jauk of 2 to 5
;mcl of 6 to 7
le West end of
liue-pin-shapcd
East side of the
:d hills, and a
ow water, con-
\ cables W. by

larrow wooded

island 454 ft. high. In the passage South of it the depth is only 3 fathoms,
but novthwiird of it there is 7 to 12 fathoms. The outer portion of the bay,
with 8 to 11 fathoms in it, is protected from all westerly winds, and the inner
bay is well protected by Noko-uo sima, but the depth shoals to .5 and 4 fathoms
soon after passing the island, and this anchorage is not recommended for vessels
drawing over 15 ft.

The shores of the inner bay are low and sandy, and at its S.E. part is the
large city of Fulcuoka or Hakata, two rapid streams flowing through it into
the bay. Cultivated plains turround the city, and South of it the country is
mountainous, rising 2,000 to 3,000 ft.

Light. — Near the North end of the city is a white lighthouse, 36 ft. high,
showing ajixed bright light, elevated 40 ft., and visible 10 miles.

From Niiii-xvura sahi, the West point of Hakosaki Hay, the face of a hilly
promontory trends 8 miles S.W. by W. to Koya saki, the indentations between
olFording no anchorage. Keya saki is a bluff cape, but southward of it rocky
reefs extend nearly a mile offshore. At IJ- mile westward of it is Ilime sima,
or Ilill Island, with a bank of sand and gravel, uncovering at low water, ex-
tending 8 cables South of it. The island is wooded, nbo\it half a mile in
diameter, and G47 ft. high.

Karatsa-no ura is a large indentation south westward of Keya saki. The
bill-ranges inland are cstrenjcly bold, Uki take Peak, with a small square top,
rising to a height of 2,685 ft. Close to the West side of the entrance is
Kasira sima, 281 ft. high, and about. 2 J- miles southward of it are Oii sima and
Taka sima, lying off the town of Karatsxt, AYherc a considerable trade is carried
on by junks, which load with coal, brought from the mines about 6 miles dis-
tance up the River Matsura, There are also extensive porcelain manufactories
at Karatsu.

The depths shoal evenly from 18 fathoms at the entrance to 6 fathoms, sandy
bottom, at 1 J mile off the town, whore there is good shelter, except from
N.W. to N.E. winds, when tiie bay of Funa-goshi, at its East end, offers the
best shelter.

IKI SIMA, the largest island off the N.W. coast of Kiiisiu, is 10 miles long.
North and South, and G miles in average breadth. It is of sandstone and ba-
saltic formation, chiofly tableland, the southern part rising to an elevation of
696 ft., and its N E, hill about oOO ft. There are many i-slands and reefs off
its shores, the deep indentations of which afford anchorage in well sheltered
harbours. liccfs were seen to extend a considerable distance off the eastern
coast.

Go no nra, on the S.W. coast, has depths of from 12 to 20 fathoms, but
near the centre is a rock, covering at high water. It affords shelter from .nlmost
any wind. In bad weather, from the North or West, Go no ura is convenient
and safe. To enter it from the westward, steer for the South point of liira
sima, the outer or southern island, giving it n berth of 2 to 3 cables, then steer

' vfe

884

THE JAPANESE ARCHIPELAGO.

( 1

'I i

E. by N. for the next low rocky islet, giving it a berth of half a mile, wheii
haul up N. by E. i E., anchoring near the head in 12 fathoms. The telegraph
cable between Yobuko and the Korea is landed here.

Eooze no ura, on the West side of Iki sima, is not recommended as an an-
chorage, on account of the swell. Yu no ura, on the N.W. coast, has several
islets and rocks in it, and the navigation is difficult for a stranger.

Na sima, a cluster of rocks and islets, about 1^ mile long, E.N.E. and
W.S. W., lies about 3 miles off the East coast of Iki sima ; the southern islet
is fiat-topped, and 60 ft. above the sea. Idzumi Islets, about 2 miles eastward
of Na sima, consist of two low flat rocks, only 14 ft. above water, and probably
more dangers exist between them. A rock, with only 8 ft. water on it, lies
three-quarters of a mile S.S.W. from the eastern Idzumi Islet, and 3^ miles
N.W. by W. i W. from Yebosi lighthouse.

Kagara sima, or Christian Island, is the centre and largest of three islands
off the main land, 8i miles S.E. of Iki sima. It is 1^- mile long, North and
South, with a rock, drying 4 ft., at 2J cables off its South point. Mats' sima
lies close off its S.W. part, a rock above water lying in the centre of the South
end of the passage ; and rocks extend 3 cables off its S.W. point. Oogaiva
sima, 1 mile eastward of Kagara, is about three-quarters of a mile in extent,
with a clump of trees on its S.E. head, 245 ft. above the sea. The passage
between is quite clear.

Ilira si, or Passage Reef, lies half a mile S.E. of Oiigawa, and at its North
and South ends are rocks, 20 and 30 ft. high, on which are fishing look-outs.
It is 3J^ cables long, and the whole shows at low water ; shoal water extends
3 cables from its South point. Oo ri se, with only 3 ft. on it at low water, lies
2^ cables from the northern rock.

YOBUKO HARBOUR, southward of Kagara sima, is formed by two deep
sheltered indentations, faced by KabS or Kata sima. Yobuko, a large fishing
village, is on the eastern inlet, which is 7^ cables deep, and 1 J cable wide ;
whilst the western branch runs South for 1 J mile, varying in breadth from 1
to 2 cables, with deep water, and the large village of Nacoya on its western
side. Ilato saki, the western point, is low and rocky, with a remarkable square
clump of trees on it. KabS sima is 1 ^ mile long, with a clump of trees on the
fouthern end, 412 ft. above the sea.

The western entrance is broad, bold, and deep ; the eastern entrance, which
is used by junks, being narrower. Westward of Yobuko Inlet a reef extends
from the shore, leaving only a very narrow passage between it and Kabe sima.
Taka sima, off the eastern entrance, is a steep wooded islet, 209 ft. high,
and at half a mile N.W. of it is M^ se Rock, 20 ft. high. A Telegraph Cable
to Chusan Harbour, in the Korea, leaving the coast here, passes eastward of
Taka sima and Me se, and then between Kagara and Oiigawa ; it is landed at
the S.W. end of Iki sima, and at the island of Tsu sima.
Xiight. — On the North end of Tuka sima is a square tower, 15 ft. high,

KIUSIU ISLAND-IMARI GULF.

885

wer, 15 ft. high,

Blowing tifxed h'ght, elevated 156 ft., and visible 8 miles. The light is green
over Mo se between N.W. by W. f W. and N.W. by N., and red over Hira se
between North and N.E. by N. J N. ; in other directions it shows bright.

To enter the eastern channel, keep a mid-channel course, and anchor in 14
to 12 fathoms. A long vessel should anchor in 10 or 12 fathoms in the
western inlet, due South of the tuft of trees on Kabe sima. It is high water,
on full and change, at O** 16"" ; springs rise 9 ft., neaps 6 J ft.

The coast southward of Ilato saki is much indented, with long rocky points
extending from the shore into deep water.

Madara sima, or Covey Island, 3J miles W. by N. J N. from Ilato saki, is
IJ mile long. East and West, and steep-to. A rock lies 1 J cable off its West
point. The highest peak, 795 ft, high, is round and flat ; the western peak,
659 ft. high, falls steeply to the sea over a cliff-bound shore. There is a village
near the South point.

Fufakami, 9 miles W. by N. from Madara, is a saddle-shaped islanf'., about
half a mile long, and 316 ft. high, with steep cliffs. A'o Futakami, a wedge-
shaped rock, 176 ft. high, lies W. by N. J N., IJ mile, from Futakami, and at
6 cables E.N.E. of this is Kanatoo, a small rock above water.

Kariya, the entrance to which is 4 miles S.S.W. of Hato saki, is a spacious
and magnificent landlocked harbour, the depths varying from 17 fathoms at
the entrance to 12 to 7 fathoms inside. It extends south-eastward for IJ mile,
with an average width of three-quarters of a mile, with several islands in the
South part. The village of Kariya stands on the North shore. To enter, keep
about mid-channel.

Moko sima, 2 miles West of the entrance to Kariya, and IJ mile N.E. of
Taka sima, shows bluff capes at each end. A ledge uncovers for 1^^ cable off
its northern end, and IJ cable off the South point is a rock above water. A
large rock aUo lies 6J cables S.S.E. of the South point, and from the latter a
rock, just awash at high water, bears E.N.E., distant 5 cables.

IMARI OTTLF, the outer portion of which is protected by Taka sima and
Awasi sima, has three channels leading into it. Taka siina is nearly 4 miles
long. North and South, with rocks extending nearly to Kuro sima, which is
715 ft. high, with a cliffy face to seaward, 1 mile West of Taka sima.

The North channel. East of Taka sima, has tortuously-indented shores. The
whole of the channel, as mcU as the spacious waters inside, almost form another
harbour equal to Kariya, but at its southern entrance, and near its central part,
it is encumbered by rocks and shoal patches.

The middle channel, between an island off the S.W. cape of Taka sima and
a small island, 76 ft. high, 4 cables N.E. of Awasi sima, is 6^ cables wide, but
a shoal extends nearly 2 cables E.S.E. from the latter islet ; and from the
middle island shoal ground extends about 2 cables westward.

The South channel is 3 cables wide between Hosika saki and a remarkable
clump of trees on a small island, connected with the South part of Awasi sima

' • T %^ ft* s. Ts^ i r^p> n m

886

THE JAPANESE AECIIIPELAGO.

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by a Bca-M'all. In entering, keep rather close to the North side, which is
steep-to.

Kanai saki is 5f miles E. by S. ^ S. from the South channel, and the gulf
carries depths of from 29 to 18 fathoms across. To the S.W. of this cape is a
bay, with good anchorage on muddy bottom.

Faku sima, half a mile eastward of Kanai saki, is a singularly shaped island.
Between its N.E. coast and the main a narrow but deep passage leads to an
extensive sheet of water, covered with innumerable islets and rocks, which,
with a similar sheet of water South of it, has not been examined. There is
excellent sheltered anchorage, in 5 fathoms, about 1 mile S. by Pi. from the
S.W. point of Fuku sima; in 1874 coal could be obtained here at 3 dollars a ton.

From Kanai saki the gulf runs about S. by E., Z^ miles, the middle depths
decreasing from 17 to 3 fathoms, whence the water is shallow to the town of
Imari.

Imari, at the head of the gulf, is small, but about 7 miles distant is Ariia,
where are the finest porcelain works in Japan. The population of Imari, in
1875, was said to be about 4,000. Coal is found in the neighbourhood.

Atsusi no sima, 6^ miles N.W. i W. of Awasi sima, is 4 J miles long,
East and West, with two deep bays, on its N.E. and S.W. sides ; that on the
S.W. is the Port Lindsay of the old charts and China Pilot. The island is
well cultivated ; its highest hill, 720 ft., is near the northern end. Its coasts
are bold, but half a mile off its N.W. side is a large rock named Us6, with
several others around it, nearly 1 J mile W. ^ S. from the North point of the
island.

Port Lindsay, on the South side of the island, is a large sheltered bay, but
the water is too deep for convenient anchorage : the best is in IG fathoms, at
the N.E. end, and very small vessels could anchor in 5 fathoms in the small
inlet at the head.

Do sima, 1 mile southward of Atsusi no siina, is 2]r miles long, and it has
some rounded bare rocky summits of moderate elevation. At three-quarters
of a mile off its southern side are some islets with rocky ledges, terminating in
the small islet Yoko sima. Some sunken rocks lie 5 cables eastward of the
East point.

Ikutski, or Ykitsh Island, 5^ miles long. North and South, lies close off the
N.W. point of Hirado, separated from it by Obrce Channel. Its North point,
off which is a rock, has overhanging cliffs of considerable height, facing the
West, sloping gently to the East. The highest hill rises to a height of 929 ft.

Ikutski no seto, or Obree Channel, (bout 4 cables wide, is quite clear, with
a depth of 9 to 15 fathoms in the middle; in passing through, keep nearer to
the Hirado shore. The Saracen anchored just inside it in 7 fathoms, about 3
cables off Taiehi village, on the S.E. shore of Ikutski. At 1| mile N.E. i E.
of Obree Channel is Nakai no sima, about 2 cables long, with two small rocks
off iiB North side.

Ic, which is

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KIUSIU ISLAND— HIUADO SIMA.

887

HIRADO SIMA, or Firando Island, 17J miles in length, N.E. and S.W.,
and, owing to its deeply-indented coast-line, of an irregular breadth of 2 cables
to 5 J miles, lies adjacent to the West coast of Kiusiu, from which it is separated
by Ilirado no scto or Spe.x Strait. It is high and hilly, and much wooded, and
its coasts are generally bold. Yasman Take, the highest hill, rises to a height
of 1,792 ft. Over fiisiki saki, the bold South point, rises precipitously a re-
markably sharp peak, 1,IG3 ft. high. Tsuba saki, the North point, is bold.

Yebukuro no minato, or Foil Firando, forms two deep harbours, on the
western side of the North end of Ilirado, and was, previous to 1623, the chief
location of British and other foreign trade with Japan, which from that period
was restricted to the Dutch and confined to Nagasaki. The town is on the
East side of the island. Oiisuka, the northern harbour, extends 2 miles east-
ward, averaging half a mile in breadth, and is sheltered from all winds, the
depths varying from 18 to 8 fathoms, muddy bottom. A good guide to recog-
nise its position is the small island lying off the North point of entrance.
Kaji-kake, nearly awash at low water, lies in mid-channel, about 7 cables in-
side the entrance, and can be avoided by keeping near the shore on either
side. There is anchorage between Ilirago sima and the head of the bay, in
12 and 13 fathoms, passing between this islet and another islet half a mile to
W.S.W.

Feruyi, the southern harbour, about half a mile within the entrance, extends
South, 1 J mile, with a brcadvh of 3^ to 7 cables, and is a perfectly landlocked
harbour, with excellent holding ground everywhere. Its entrance, although
barely IJ cable wide, is easy and clear, and the longest ship could boldly pass
througli it, and anchor as convenient in 10 to 15 fathoms, mud. A stream
flows into the head of the bay, and there are some small villages on its shores.

Sisiki Bay, at tlie southern end of Ilirado, is 3 miles deep, and has a general
width of 1 mile, the depth gradually decreasing from 1 7 fathoms at its entrance
to 5 fiithoms near its head. 06 Azika and Ko Azika sima, two remarkably
bold, rocky, conical islets, lie off the entrance.

The bay is open to the N.W. and W.N.W., but affords perfect protection from
all other winds, and to any vessel well found in ground tackle it would be a
welcome haven from a heavy westerly gale, as from 5 to 4 fathoms can be ob-
tained near the head, where no very heavy sea could reach. Several islets lie
off the West side of the peninsula forming the bay. A heavy tide-rip is gene-
rally found off Sisiki saki.

The eastern shore of Ilirado is clear and bold, and can be approached to
within 2 or 3 cables without danger. Sheltered anchorage, in 4 to 5 fathoms,
mud, can be obtained close off the village of Kigatsu in a snug little bay. At
4 miles farther North the spacious bay of Kawatchi opens, in which anchorage
can be found as convenient.

The town of Hirado, 2J miles from the North capo, is built on the North
side of a narrow bay ; off the entrance is lutvo ko sima, 1 J cable long, dividing

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888

THE JAPANESE ARCHIPELAGO,

Spez Strait into two channels, the eastern of which is used by vessels passing
through.

Tu'ke Earbonr, about 1 mile South of Tsuba saki, and protected by a rooky
islet, is very small, but much resorted to by junks, and has 4 to 6 fathoms
water. A BmaM^xed bright light is shown occasionally on the North point.

From the northern entrance of Spex Strait the coast takes an E. by N.
direction to Kama la Harbour, far preferable, as an anchorage, to Taske. A
little farther eastward is the deep bay Kubiki no wa, shelter ?d from all westerly
winds. At 2^ miles from Kubiki is Hosika saki, the southern entrance point
to Imari Gulf. Kamada Bay is protected by the island of Yoko, and can be
entered by steering midway between the S.E. point of the island and the oppo<
site shore in 8 fathoms; inside there is 5 to 7 fathoms.

HIBADO NO SETO, or Spex Strait, is now much used by steam-vessels.
A sailing vessel cannot, however, be taken through in safety without a com-
manding bieeze, blowing directly through the strait. At its northern part, for
1^ mile, the whole breadth of the strait is only 3 cables, and the navigable
channel in two places is only 1 J cable wide. This is the dangerous part of the
strait ; the great strength of the tides over the uneven bottom, ^specially west-
ward of Hirose Rock, causing small whirlpools, rendering it indispensable that
a ship should have good steerage way to ensure safety. After passing this,
the strait takes a circuitous round, for nearly 2 miles, to the next narrow pas-
sage, formed between the projecting part of Hirado and the coast ; passing
this the channel opens, the eastern shore having many indentations fronted by
numerous islands, reefs, and rocks.

Hirose Hock, 20 ft. high, lies in the middle of the northern entrance to the
strait. A bank of 4 J fathoms extends 1^ cable N.E. of its North end, and at
] J cable S.W. ^ S. and S.E. by S. | S., respectively, from it are Vineta Bank
of 2} fathoms, and Sylvia Hock, the latter lying at the extremity of a shoal
bank extending from the shore. These narrow the navigable channel to 1^
cable.

. Ootaake Rock, 6 ft. high, lies about IJ cable N. J W. from Red Cliff Point,
at the second narrows; a patch of 15 ft. lies 150 yards north-eastward of it,
and one of 9 ft. half a cable West of it. Kotaske Rock, drying 6 ft., lies 1
cable N.W. by W. i W. from Ootaske. Asama Bank, of 1 J fathom, sand and
shingle, lies in mid-channel, 9 cables S.W. by S. from Red CliflF Point.

James Rock, uncovering 2 ft. at low water, lies 7 cables off the eastern shore,
about 2\ miles N.E. J N. from the northern Kariki Island. Robinett Rock,
nearly awash at low water, but seldom breaking, lies 1 J mile S.W. of James
Rock. Kareki Islets have reefs extending a short distance off their South
points. Costa Rica Rock, the southernmost danger in the strait, has only 2 ft.
on it at low water, and lies IJ mile S.W. by S. from South Kareki; North
Kareki open West of South Kareki, N.E. by E., leads westward of it.
Kuro sima, facing the southern entrance to Spex Strait, is 2^ miles long,

KIUSIU ISLAND— SPEX STRAIT.

889

East and West. At 2^ cables off its western end, a conspicuous bold bluff, is
a flat rock, only 4 ft. above high woter. Ho-age, or «SaiV Roch, presenting
from a distance the appearance of a boat under Bail, lies A\ miles W. ^ S. from
the West end of Kuro sima.

Takasime, 1^ mileN.E. of Kuro sima, and between which vessels steer
when taking the eastern route, is a very conspicuous landmark, having a temple
near some trees cresting a square-topped hill.

Midzu sima and Mi sima are two islets about a mile North of Kuro sima.
Midzu, the eastern, has a reef drying 3 cables S.E. by E. J E. from its S.E.
point. A reef also extends 2 cables W.N.W. of the N.W. point ot" Mi sima.

Tides. — It is high water at Taske, on full and change, at 9'' 44™ ; springs
rise 8 J ft., neaps 5 ft. The flood sets to the North, the velocity of the tidal
streams varying from 2 to 5 knots in the strait.

Directions. — In entering Spex Strait from the North, vessels of light draught
use either passage, but the eastern passage, although much narrower, is by far
the safest and most easy to navigate. The North end of Kuro-ko sima, off
Ilirado, kept midway between Hiroso and the wooded head of Ushi-ga no kubi,
a point about 2 cables South of Ilirose, leads clear through the passage, pass-
ing the rock at little more than half a cable. From the wooded point the
Kiusiu shore should be kept at a cable's distance while rounding to Red Cliff
Point, and thence the same shore must be kept on board, distant 2 cables, until
abreast Aosa saki. If mile S.8.W. of Red Cliff Point, when a S.W. by S. course
can be shaped for the extreme South end of Hirado.
Directions from the southivard will be given hereafter.
Tenoi >ima, 9 miles S. by W. of Hirado sima, has numerous scattered islets,
rocks, and reefs off its North, South, and West sides, rendering great caution
necessary when approaching it. The island is IJ mile long, N.W. and S.E.,
rising towards the North end in two sharp hummocks, the highest 436 ft.
above the sea. Hira sima, to the westward, will be described with the Goto
Islands.

Saracen Beefs, a line of reefs and rocks, extend nearly 3 miles S. ^ W.
from the South point ; Minamize, the highest and central rock, is 65 ft. in
height. At 2 miles W. J S. from the South point is another patch of rocks
and reefs, the highest of which, Kuro sima, is 120 ft. above the sea; the outer
patch, of 4J fathoms, lying half a mile S.W. of it. Mize, uncovering 4 ft., lies
9 cables N.E. of Kuro sima. Iivoze, 30 ft. high, lies N.W. by W., 1^ mile,
from the N.W. point of Yenoi sima, and about 1 mile to E.N.E. is Kanagashira,
64 ft. in height, with several other large rocks.

Caution. — The channel westward of Yenoi sima being bordered by many
dangers, navigation in these waters is injudicious and hazardous. The tidal
streams are very strong, and set right on to the islands and rtefs.
Oo tate, 3^ miles East of Yenoi sima, has two hummocks u-^ar its S.E. end,
North Pacific, 6 X

I i

I I

! I

890

THE JAPANESE ARCHIPELAGO.

257 ft. high. It is 6 cables long, and 8 cables N.W. by N. from its western
point are two islets, 20 ft. high. A rock, awash, has been reported to lie half
a mile N. by E. ^ E. from Oo tate. Ko late, or the Bonnet, a small cone-
shaped islet, with a low rook close to its South side, lies 1 mile S.E. of Oo tatc,
directly in the fairway between Nagasaki and Hirado sima.

Foka ihe', a dangerous rook 4 ft. above low water, lies 4 J miles N. ^ W.
from Ko tato, and 6^ miles S.E. by S. ^ S. from the South cape of Ilirado sima,
directly in the fairway. On it is a stone beacon surmounted by a hemisphere,
34 ft. high, painted in red and white bands.

At 4^ miles East of Ko tate is Mikoto sima, with strong tide-races off its
West point at spring tides. A narrow shallow channel, with a reef in its
southern entrance, separates it from Kafci no ura sima, which has a deep inlet
on its western side, affording inferior anchorage for small vessels.

Oo sima, connected with the latter island, has numerous islets and rocks be-
tween it and the coast, the navigable channel, close to the East side, being 4
cables wide. To use it the chart is necessary. There is excellent anchorogc,
in 5 to 6 fathoms, in Otaiva Bay. At 1 J mile N.W. of Oij sima is Kata sima,
a wedge-shaped island 527 ft. high, with a small rock three-quarters of a cubic
southward of it. At three-quarters of a mile N.E. of Kata sima is Gana she,
a patch of rocks about a mile in extent, and at half a mile farther to the N.E.
is Shira she, a smaller patch, the N.E. rock Leing about 15 ft. high.

MURA GULF.— The islands and rocks just described lie off the S.W.
side of the entrance to this extensive gulf, rendering the navigation near and
among them difficult and dangerous. The gulf has not yet been explored.

At 3| miles southward of Otawa Bay is Takabo, a cone-shaped hill 743 ft.
high, with a clump of trees on its summit. At 2£ miles farther southward is
Mats^ sima, 2 miles long, rising to a flat-topped summit 708 ft. high. There
are coal mines on the island. An islet lies 4 cables off its N.W. point, and
from the North point islets and rocks extend 6J cables to N.W. by N. ^ N.
The whole of the channel between Mats' sima and the mainland is much en-
cumbered with reefs and obstacles.

Hiki sima is a partially cultivated island, 250 ft. high, 9 miles long. East
and West, with a remarkable cone-shaped rounded hummock at its S.E. ex-
treme, connected with the main body of the island by a long strip of shore. A
ledge of rocks extends 7 cables N.W. of the North side of the island. Rocks
also extend off its East and West extremes. At 1 mile N.E. of it is Ike sima,
a flat wooded island, with a salt lagoon at its North end.

Hako sima, a small round island, If mile S.E. of Ike sima, has off its West
side the remarkable pinnacle rock Tengo, with an arch through it. Kashi, a
square rock, 162 ft. high, lies 1^ mile E. by S. ^ S. from Hako sima.
' From abreast Kashe the coast trends S.S.E. to Miye no ura, with bold points
and sandy beaches, nearly all the points having off-lying rocks. Au isolated

■ JIJI.I1I- . IILI J 1 i .Jll

. rag

hmi"iri'lMiMJS

GOTO ISLANDS.

891

sunken rock lies 6 cables offshore, at IJ mile N.W. i N. from the oiiter flat
rock off the North point of Miye no ura (p. 898).

GOTO ISLANDS. — This mountainous chain of many islands, lying between
the parallels of 32° 34' and 33° 20' N., is 50 miles in extent, N.E. and S.W.,
and from 5 to 20 miles in breadth. The chain consists of nine principal islands, all
;nuch indented, forming six channels. The following descriptions, mostly taken
from the China Pilot, arc compiled principally from the reports of the surveys
by Commanders Aldrich and Pearco, H.M.S. Si/lri'a, 1876-9, together with
those of Commanders Brooker and Bullock, 186G-9, and J. Richards, master,
H.M.S. Saracen, 1855.

The winds in the channels between the islands can never be depended on.
The duration of the tidal streams in the North part of the islands is nearly
equal, the main direction of the flood being to tho northward, and the ebb to
the southward.

Uku sima, the northern Island, is 4,} miles in extent. East and West ; in
the centre are two peaks, the northern 842 ft. high. The shores arc indented,
with several small bights affording shelter for boats. Kttra no hana, its
northern point, is low, with dangers extending one-third of a mile northward.
At night give this shore a wide berth. Koshi no se, a group of three small
islets, lies 2 miles East of Kura no hana, tho centre islet being 200 ft. high.
A patch of sunken rocks lies about half a mile westward of Koshi no se.

Ojika seto or Eosaka Channel is the strait southward of Uku sima and
Tera siwa, the latter 120 ft. high, off the S.W. side of Uku sima. To tlie
eastward of its entrance are the Kttromo-se, a cluster of rocks 50 ft. high, at
2i miles S.E. of Uku sima. Ko no ura, between Tera sima and Uku siir.a,
has a bank of 4 J to 5 fathoms ; the best anchorage is in 10 fathoms, northward
of this bank. Small supplies offish, vegetables, &e., may bo obtained from the
villages. The harbour should be approached with Tera sima seen just open to
the westward of Uku sima, bearing N.W. {• W.

The western entrance of the Ojika seto is only 9 cables wide between Tera
sima and No sima, and neither side should be closely approached. Ai-no-se,
!6 ft. high, lies in the centre of the strait, \\ mile N.E. by E. J E. from No
sima; and Mu si'ma, 254 ft. high, with shoal water extending a quarter of a
mile S.E. of its eastern point, lies on the South side of the eastern entrance to
the strait, at 3 miles east^vard of No sima, and 1 mile southward of Uku sima.

Nosaki sima, 1,142 ft. high. Is 3i miles long, North and South. The channel
between it and Mu sima, half a mile to the northward, lias several dangers in
It. Between the South end of Nosaki sima and tho North end of Nakadorl is
a narrow strait, clear of danger, the islets Tanji and Shimomu lying about 1 J
mile to the S.S.E. of it. Nokubi Bay, on the East side of Nosaki, affords shel*
tered anchorage from all but S.E. winds.

Ojika Island, 3J miles long, East and West, is separated from Nosaki sima

^ifpi

899

THE JArANESE ARCHIPELAGO.

by a navigable channel three-quarters of a mile wide, lunt Bay, on the eastern
shore of Ojika, is three-ciuarters of a mile deep, and nearly 7 cables wide at
its entrance, the shore being fronted with shelving rocks covered at high water.
From Tonosaki, the South entrance point, rocks extend 2 cables northward,
and shallow water half a mile south-eastward. Kuszukuri, the North entrance
point, has a rock at the extremity of the shelving rocks projecting from it.
The depths in the bay are from 4 to 14 fathoms, the best anchorage being in
about 8 fathoms, with the North point of Nosnki sima, in lino with the rock
off Kuszukuri Point, bearing E. by N. i N. ; and the South end of Nosaki
sima, in line with Tan-ji Islet, S.E. by S. \ S. It is high water, on full and
change, at S"" 40"" ; springs rise 10^ ft., neaps 2 to 4 ft.

At 6J cables westward of the S.l"]. point of Ojika, and 2 cables off shore, is
Ko-guro sima, 57 ft. high. Anchorage can bo obtained nearly midway between
it and the S.E. point of Ojika, in 72 fathoms, sand, with the South extremes
of Ko-guro sima and Kuro sima in line, bearing W. by S. J S., sheltered from
northerly winds.

For 11 miles to the westward of Ojika there are many islets and rocks. The
northern of these., named Iloage or Arch Rock, lies 4 J miles West of Madara
sima, off the West end of Ojika, and consists of two pinnacles, 167 and 120 ft.
high. A dangerous rock, drying 5 ft. at low water, on which the sea generally
breaks, lies G^ cables northward of Hoage, with the summit of Biriyo sima in
line with the West extreme of Iloagc, bearing S.W. J S.

Shiro-se, 105 ft. high, 13^ miles W. by S. from Ojika seto, is the western-
most islet in the northern portio.x of the Goto Islands. It is divided into two
pinnacles, nearly the same height, and off it arc several rocks.

Shaku shi, or Hodge Rock, awash at low water, lies 4 J cables N. \ W. from
Shiro-se. The North peak of Nosaki sima in line with Hoage, bearing East,
leads 2 cables northward of it.

Eorai-no-ze Rock, with 18 ft. water, lies 6 miles S.W. \ W. of Shaku shi,
near the S.E. edge of a rocky bank, IJ mile long and 2 J to 7^ cables wide, with
from 5 to 10 fathoms on it. The North point of liiriyo sima, in line with the
North peak of Nosaki sima, bearing E. \ N., leads northward of it ; and the
South point of Hira sima, in line with the North peak of Nosaki sima, E. by
N. \ N., leads southward of it.

NAKADOAI SIMA is 21| miles long between Sawosaki the South extreme,
and Tsua saki the North extreme. The coast-line is deeply indented with
bays. 0-mitzu yama, a flat peak 1,446 ft. high, 6 miles from its North end,
is the summit.

Nama ura Bag, f^. the western side of Nakadori sima, immediately to the
southward of O-mitzu yama, may be recognised by Cone Rock, 313 ft. high,
which forms the S«uth entrance point. It is 2 miles deep and half a mile wide,
with an even depth of about 16 fathoms ; shelving rocks extend 3^ cables in a
S.W. direction from the N.E. side of the entrance. The best anchorage for large

GOTO ISLANDS.

80*

vessels is ncnr the hcnil, in 1 falhoins, 2^ cublos from the shore, with the peak
of O sima just open eastward of Cono llock, bearing N. by W. | W., and Joss
Point, N.K. Tuttbo yashi, a rock 10 ft. high, lies li mile northward of the
entrance.

Hira sima, \\ mile from the East extreme of Nakadori sima, and 4 miles
westward of Yenoi sima (p. 889), is 2^ miles long, nnd rises to a peak GG3 ft.
high. Its western side is steep-to, and its costern side irregular, with a few
off-lying dangers and islets. Haidomari Bay, on the N.K. side, is 6 ciiblcs
deep, but is only suitable for junks. Komoda Bay, on the S.W. side of the
island, affords protection to small vessels from North and easterly winds ;
vessels should anchor to the south-eastward of a small wooded islet, named
Kojima, lying near the centre of the bay. There arc some mines of inferior
coal here. Nanori is a rem.irkablo rock, 92 ft. high, surrounded by rocky
ledges, 6 cables to ihc south- westwanl of Komo-no saki, the South point of
Hirn sima.

The channels on either side of Hira sima arc navigable ; that between Hira
sima and Nakadori sima is clear of danger, but in the channel between Ilira
sima and Yenoi sima are the Saracen llee/s (p. 889), to the southward of
Yenoi sima, and the foul ground to the south-westward of Kuro sima. The
eastern shore of Hira sima is the clearer side of this channel. In the vicinity
of Hira simn the streams run through the channels at the rate of 3 to 5 knots
during springs, causing heavy overfalls.

Oto no ae, or Old/tarn Rock, covered at high water springs, lies nearly IJ
mile K. by N. from Sawo mki, the South extreme of Nakadori. An islet, 78
feet high, half a mile to the westward of Sawo saki, in line with it, bearing
W. i N., leads to the southward.

The channel between Sawo saki andKaba sima to the S.W. is 3 miles wide,
and, with the exception of some rocks close to its northern shore, is deep and
clear of danger. On the S.W. side of Nakadori sima is M'akamaisu sima, 6
miles long, N.N.W. and S.S.E., the narrow and tortuous Nakadori Channel
lying between ; this channel is dangerous, if not impassabh , for ships.

Takigawara seto, separating Wakamatsu from Naru sima, is clear of danger,
and is about 4 cables wide in its narrowest part. In approaching from the
westword, Arafuku Island, on the North side of its entrance, is conspicuous,
presenting a reddish appearance with the sun on it. Anchorage may be ob*
tained in Takiyawara ura, eastward of the narrowest part. The tidal streams
at springs attain a velocity of 5 to 6 knots, the flood setting to the north-west-
ward. The tides meet off Kihuta, the small rock 131 ft. high, in the southern
entrance, forming heavy tide-rips.

Naru sima is much indented by deep inlets, Ai-no ura, the western of two
inlets on its North side, affording anchorage in 10 to 12 fathoms, sand, about
three-quarters of a mile from the head. Kadsura sima, to the northward, has
an extremely rocky coast, with a sandy beach and small village on its S.E. side.

80-1

THE JAPANESE ARCHIPELAGO.

jii

t' >t

■< i

i' !i

If am leto, or Ku/fa Channel, separates Nnru situa from Ilisaka sima ; it is
ubout 5 miles in length, half n mile wide near its central part, and eleiir of
danger. A good mark for the northern entrance is n hill, 637 ft. high, on the
N.W. point of Naru sima, with a peculiar knob on its summit when seen from
the westward. In the approaches from the southword arc two dangerous
rocks, with only 3 ft. on them at low water : Gunn Hock lies three-quarters
of a mile S.S.W. from the South point of Naru sima, and nearly two-thirds of
a mile S.E. by E. from the islet off the South end of Mia simo. Keary liock
lies 11 mile S.W. by W. \ W. from Gunn Rock, and 1 J mile S.W. J S. from
the same islet. The tidal streams attain a rate of C knots at springs in .'. ' Naru
seto, and heavy tide-rips arc met with.

Ohnhi Harbour, at the West end of Naru simo, and inside the Naru seto,
is a well protected harbour, the best anchorage being in its centre, in 10 to 11
fathoms, sand. Hardy Harbour, a small inlet, 8 cables in length, North and
South, ond 1 to 3 cables broad, is a snug anchorngc, on the S.W. side of Naru
sima. On the S.E. side of its entrance is Observatory Islet, at 1 cable South
of which a shoal, with 9 ft. water, extends IJ cable from the shore. From the
N.W. side of the entrance a shoal of 2 to 5 fathoms extends southward half-woy
across the entrance, leaving a deep channel between a 12-ft. patch and Obser-
vatory Island, only 1 cable wide. The best anchorage is in 10 fathoms, 3^
cables North of Observatory Islet.

Hisaka sima is 5 miles long, and 3^^ miles wide, hilly, and rocky along its
shores. Its northern shore is indented by Hisaka no minato, a long inlet ex-
tending 2i miles to S.S.E. It has a narrow winding entrance, in some places
only 1 cable wide, but clear of danger, and on CTierging from this narrow
passage a perfectly landlocked basin is reached. At the South end of this
basin arc two shelving muddy points, about 1 cable apart, with 7 and 8 fathoms
between them, forming the entrance to on inner and smaller basin. Perfect
security may be had here, and repairs and beaching couU. be effected *vith
safety in any weather. No supplies eon be obtained.

Tanno ura seto, or Fukuye Channel, between Ilisaka sima and Fukni sima,
is about 4 miles in length, with an average width of 1 ^ mile. It is clear of
danger, with the exception of some sunken rocks lying half a mile N.E. by
N. i N. and W. by N. from the northern point of Tatara sima at its eastern
entrance. Vessels should pass between Tntara and Yaneo. A rock, 4 ft. above
high water, lies three-quarters of a mile N.W. of the North point of Fukai
sima. The tidal streams run very strongly, attaining a rate of fully 7 knots in
the narrowest part of the channel. The flood tide sets to the northward. Heavy
tide-rips occur off the North end of the channel.

FTTKAI SIMA, the principal island of the Goto group, is about 18 miles long,
N.E. and S.W., and 15 miles across. It is very hilly, and its shores are broken
by numerous inlets and bays. The highest and most prominent peak on the
island is I'eteya yama, 1,520 ft. high, near its western side. Kashi no ura, on

.^■\

GOTO ISLANDS-FUKAI.

•M

the Euflt aide of the southern cutranco of Tanno ura scto, hns n smull islet in
its entrance, the channel, 1} cablo wide, being on in Weitt side. Inside tliero
is anchorage in 1 1 fathoms, mud.

FTJKAI) the chief town of the Goto Islands, is built on the sloping shore of
nn open roadstead, southward of Tunno ura seto. It presents a thriving and
cleanly appearance, and behind it arc fertile and well cultivated hills. There
is a junk harbour formed by a camber, with a smull lighthouse nt its octremc.

Immediately South of the main portion of the town there arc reefs with largo
boulders on them, which dry 3 ft. at low water spring tides.

Fowls, fish, and vegetables may be procured A small steamer runs about
once a fortnight between Nagasaki, Fukiii, and the Korea. The most conve-
nient anchorage is with the summit of Huiia sinut, 4C7 ft. high, bearing K. J N.,
and the Eust extreme of Yaneo, in line with the summit of Tntara, N.N.K., in
8 to fathoms, at i^ cables from the lighthouse.

Salidi 1/ama hana, the eastern point of Fukai sima, rises to a cluster of grassy
conical hills, 170 ft. high. Tutai sima, a conical rock, 191 ft. high, 1 mile
to S.E. I K., is at the S.W. end of a group of islets and reefs extending thence,
nearly half n mile, to N.N.W., and li mile to the eastward. Tatara summit
in line with the East extreme of Sada sima, N.W. by N. ^ N., leads eastward
of these dangers.

Tomie minato, or Tatvo Hay, indenting the S.E. side of Fukai sima, is about
2 miles wide at its entrance, and about the same in depth ; but shoal water,
extending from its South shore, contracts the anchorage considerably. In its
S.W. part arc several low islets and rocks, off y'omie village, where fowls, fish,
and vegetables may be procured. Very good anchorage may be obtained in
Tomic minato, sheltered, except from between E.N.E. and S.E. by E. In
entering, the southern shore should be avoided. The island of Kuro, in the
entrance, may be passed within a few cables on either side. Pass southward
of Ko Shirashi, the white rock lying IJ cable S.S.W. from the rocky islet
O Shirashi in the middle of the bay, and do not haul to the S.W. until mid-
way between the rocks and the shore, when anchorage may be taken up in 6
or 7 fathoms, sand. Mulstt, two small rocky islets, lie off the northern channel
into the bay, at 4 miles E. by S. ^ S. from Ko Shirashi.

A group of islands, extending SJ miles N.E. and S.W., lies 5 miles S.E. by E.
from Tomie minato. O sima, the southern and highest island of the group,
is also the largest, rising to a height of 301 ft. ; at its N.E. end is a fishing
village. Jlabe, about 1 mile North of sima, is low and flat, with a depth of
3f fathoms in the channel between. Aka sima, 172 ft. high, lies about half a
mile E.N.E. from Itabe ; reefs extend from its North, N.E., and S.E. sides,
liana se, the northern reef, lying nearly half a mile from the island.

Tsubashi hana, the South point of Fukai sima, is the South point of a pro-
montory similar to that at the N.W. point of the island ; it rises gently to a
height of 192 ft., and its shores are extremely shelving and rocky.

'.V.I

;/.,

!■ V|

ji !|l

-I

896

THE JAPANESE ARCHIPELAGO.

At 2} miles W. by N. is Tsutara sima, a narrow island, 364 ft. high, with
reefs and rocks around it, extending nearly three-quarters of a mile S.E. ^ E
from its East end. To the North of this island is a large bay, 4 miles in length
and 1 mile in depth, in the centre of which, and to the N.W. of Tsutara, are
Futago Islet, 156 ft. high, and Toma se, a rocky reef extending neorly a mile
S.S.W. from the shore, with an islet near its centre. At the eastern end of
the bay is Kuroshi, affording excellent shelter from northerly and easterly
winds.

Otakara Point, the West point of the bay, rises to a height of 330 ft., and
at H c»ble S.E. of it is Biro sima, 221 ft. high, with a rock 1^ cable S.S.W.
of it. Dai/to mura, the bay northward of Otakara, has a sandy beach near
the village at its head, and affords sheltered anchorage from winds between
West and N.E., in 8 to 10 fathoms, sand and shells. From Otakara the steep
and rocky coast trends 3} miles W.N.W. to Ose saki.

OSE SAKI or Cape Goto, the S.W. point of Eukuye sima, is exceedingly
bold, having 42 fathoms within \^ cable of it, its sieep rocky shores receding
from the cape at nearly a right angle. Immediately behind the cape is a
wooded hill, 851 ft. high, and to the north-eastward rise three fine mountains
(about N.N.W. of each other), separated by valleys. Very heavy overfalls are
frequently experienced off this cape, even in calm weather.

LIGHTHOUSE.— On Ose saki is a white tower, 36 ft. high, showing a
revolving bright light, attaining its greatest brilliancy every half minute,
elevated 265 ft., and visible 22 miles seaward between North and S.E. by E.
Lat. 32° 36' 45" N., long. 128° 36' 6" E.

Tama no ura, a large inlet or arm of the sea on the western side of Eukai
sima, is finely situated as a port of refuge, and, but for its great depth of water,
would be a magnificent harbour. Its entrance is 4J miles N.N.E. of Ose saki,
and 2J miles S.E. of Saga sima, which is about 2 miles in length, and 512 ft.
high. In the bay on the East side of Saga there is good anchorage in 7 to 9
fathoms, sand, sheltered from all westerly winds.

The entrance to Tama no ura is 6J cables wide, and must not be mistaken
for a blind opening 2 cables wide, only 2^ miles North of Ose saki, with a
rocky reef across its entrance, and only available for boats.

The main inlet of the harbour, which has a varying breadth of 3 to 7 cables,
follows the contour of the coast-line for 6 miles, separated from the sea by
Sima yama and a belt of land extending a mile northward of Ose saki, the
fishing village of Tama no ura being situated on the East side of the latter. It
first runs S. by W., 3^^ miles, then curves to the S.E. for 1 J mile to its head.
The depth within the entrance is 32 to 38 fathoms, decreasing gradually to 16
fathoms at its head, rendering anchorage inconvenient.

Directly S.I<i. of the entrance, and on its eastern shore, the harbour branches
into three narrow arms about a mile in length. Anchorage, sheltered from
northerly and easterly winds, may be found on a sandy spit of 8 to 10 fathoms

r-TTt^.r9A>*ff*i

S4 ft. high, with
n mile S.E, i E
4 miles in length
of Tsutaia, are
ing nearly a mile
e eastern end of
?rly and easterly

It of 330 ft., and
U cable S.S.W.
andy beach near
winds between
)takara the steep

a, is exceedingly
shores receding
d the cape is a
e fine mountains
avy overfalls are

ligh, showing a
i-y half minute,
and S.E. by E.

•n side of Fukai
t depth of water,
S^E. of Ose saki,
igth, and 512 ft.
orage in 7 to 9

ot be mistaken
sc saki, with a

of 3 to 7 cables,
roni the soa by
' Ose saki, the
f the latter. It
le to its head,
jradually to 16

rbour branches

sheltered from

to 10 fathoms

GOTO ISLANDS -PALLAS EOCKS.

897

projecting from the North shore of the harbour, just within the entrance, N.E.
of Kojima or Hallowcs Island, which is 224 ft. high. With N.W, winds,
however, this anchorage is exposed to a heavy swell, and the holding ground
is not good. Off the village, at the inner part of the blind entrance, there is
fair anchorage in 10 to 13 fathoms. Fish, fowls, vegetables, and good water
may bo obtained here. There is a good road from the village to the town of
Fukai.

The best anchorage for large ships will be found at the S-'F'. part of the luu -
hour, where the water shoals regularly. The best position is in 10 to li
fathoms, sand and mud, at 2 J cables from the shore. The entrance of Nugasti
no tira, extending to the N.E. from the head of the harbour, is narrowed to I
cable by Ko sinm Rock, on its North side. Very safe and sheltered anchorago
may be obtained here, for ships of moderate size, in G to 7 fathoms, mud.

It is high water at Tama no ura village, on full and change, at 8'' SI"" ; springs
rise 9 to 12 ft., neaps li to 4J ft.

The N.W. part of Fukai sima forms a projecting promontory, rising in its
centre to S/io i/ama, 594 ft. high. Between this and Kuto sa^i, the N.E. point
of Fukai sima, the coast forms a bay, the cultivated shores of which are much
indented by three inlets. S/to ura, on the East side of the promontory, affords
good shelter, except from winds between North and East, in G to 7 fathoms,
about half a mile from its head. Sonza ura, the centre inlet, affords anchorage
in 9 to 10 fathoms, mud, for a vessel of moderate size. Kiniku no minato, the
eastern inlet, can only be used by very small vessels ; good water, poultry, and
fish may be procured from the village inside the entrance.

Hime sima, a mile N.N.W. of i' o N.W. point of Fukai sima, is 5 cables in
length, and rises to a height of G47 it. ; Oto no se, b ft. above high water, lies,
midway between, Kam hone, two rocky knolls, the nearest of which lies 2J-
miles N. by W. ^ W. from the West extreme of Ilime sima, has 3^ fathoms on
it at low water; the outer knoll, 2^ cables to N.W. by N., has only 2 ^ fathoms
on it. Shinsone, one-third of a mile northward of Kamisone Hocks, is a rocky
patch of 4 fathoms. Nechisone, n 7-fathoms patch, lies 3|^ miles N.W. from tlio
West extreme of llimc sima, and about 2 miles W. by S. from Kamisone Hocks.
The locality is often marked by tide-rips.

Ose saki in line with the West extreme of Saga sima, bearing S. ^ W., Inads
westward of all the above dangers. The point North of Sho ura, well open of
the East extreme of Ilime sima, leads to the eastward of them. The flood sets
to the N.W. in this locality.

TORI SIMA, or Pallas Rocks, three in number, lie S.W.^W., westerly,
33 miles, from Ose saki lighthouse, the southern and largest rock being CO I't.
high, and about one-third of a cable in length, in hit, 32° 14' 36" N., long,
128"" 6' 18' E. The two southern rocks are clo.se together; the North rock,
40 ft. high, lies 4 cables N.N.E, from the South rock. They arc steep-to, and
isorth Pacific, 5 t

896

THE JAPANESE ARCHIPELAGO.

fr,-

. .^

Hiii

fishing vessels, by hooking on to their lee side, ride out moderate breezes,
f 'apt. iO'lmonds, of the P. and O. steamer On'ssa, reports that on several occa-
sions, when passing these rocks, the currents were found to be with the wind.

ME SIMA GrJSwlt, or Meac sima, consisting of two principal and three
smaller islands, with numerous islets, rocky pinnacles, and sunken rocks in the
channels between them, lie between S.W | W. and S.W. |^ S., 19 miles, from
Pallas Rocks, th<» whole extendin<.' about miles N E. and S.W. Thiey arc
visited by fisherm«f» during the fisiiug season, Mny ill November, a few only
remaining during the winter. Strong tidal streams set through the channels
between the islands, the flood to the N.W.

si'nw, or T(i/i<i sima, the northern island, is neai'ly 2 miles long, and rises
to a height of 7.')2 ft. in a nearly flat ridge, covered with bushes, its bold rocky
shores rising s-lceply for 250 ft. from the water. Off eaeh point of the island
lie detached rocks ; none, however, more than 3J cables from the shore.

The South coast forms a bay fi cables across, at the licad of which stands a
fishing village. Fair .shelter may be obtained hero, with winds from N.E. to
N.W., in from 19 to 20 fathoms, hard coarse sand. At 2 cables off the S.W.
point is A'uromi sima, a small island, 2| cables long, the tidal streams setting
strongly through the channel between.

Uri sima, the Asses' Kars of the old charts, at 1 J cable S.W. of Kuromi sima,
is 5 cables long, and 4 cables wide, rising in two rugged and sharj) peaks, 570
and 607 ft. high rcs])ectively, the peculiar form of which gave rise to the name
given them by early navigators. Hanayuri sima, 1^ cable to S.W., is '61^ ca-
bles long, and rises in rugged declivities to a height of 481 ft.

Me sima, the highest cf the group, i'^ nearly l.J mile long, and half a mile
broad, its summit rising in a remarkably sharp peak, 9f5l ft. high, wooded on
its western, but bare and precipitous on its eastern side. Its South point rises
to a peak, 309 ft. high, and is almost separated from the rest of the island by
a cleft in the rock. Near it is a fislimg station and a pool of fresh water. Two
rocky islets lie 2^ cables off the South point.

Sa7ne no tt, the southern rock of the group, 18 ft. high, lies 11 cables
S. by K. from the inlets oflF the South point of Me sima. with deep water all
round it.

Tlxe BAY of NAGASAKI (long cape) is formed to the no; thward of a,
peninsula of the same name, between the headlands Nomo saki and Oho saki
which lie f' ''h and South of each other, distant 15 miles iipart. The bay ia
fronted by ii in of iskndi* and reefs (juiU shelterinjj the hsrbour, which is
an arm or inlet at its hood.

Miye no ura V /Oho stlki, and about 5 miles N. by E. from Iwo sima
light, is formed between iVjo/c, 3 cables off the North point, and Kagura sima
on the South side. It has a ghoal of 2^ fathoms in the centre of the entrance
Tlie depth? are very uneven, but there is said to be good aacUorage at the head

KIUSIU ISLAND— NAGASAKI 15AV.

899

odorate breezes.
on several occa-
e with the wind,
icipal and three
ken rocks in the
., IS) miles, from
S.W. They are
mbor, a few only
gh the channels

s long, and rises
es, its bold rocky
3iut of the island
the shore,
f which stands a
ds from N.E. to
bk's off the S.W.
il streams setting

. of Kuromi sima,

sharp peaks, 570
e rise to the name
.S.W., is li^ ca-
t.
, and half a mile

high, wooded on
■ South point rises
t of the island by

fresh water. Two

11, lies ll cables
ith deep water all

e no? thward of a
iki and Oho saki,
i>art. The bay is
iiarbour, wliich is

E. from Two sima
, and Kagura sima
•e of the entrance
lorage at the head

of the bay, in 7 and 8 fathoms. It extends 2 miles in a N.E. direction, and is
much encumbered with dangers. Fukuda saki, ?i\ miles S.E. J S. from Kagura
sima, is a bold headland, G80 ft. high, with Teazer Rock, with about 3 ft. on
it at low water, lying 2 cables from its S.E. shore.

Iwo sima and Oki sima appear as one long island, although separated by a
narrow boat-passage. They lie in a N.W. and S.E. direction, and are of un-
dulating outline, the eastern summit of Iwo, the outer of the two, being '100 ft.
in height. Signal Head, the N.W. point of Iwo, is a good guide for entering
the bay. It is bold, and may be roimded at 3 cables distance, in 25 fathoms.
On its summit, which is cleared of trees, there is a lighthouse and a signal-staff,
from which the arrival of vessels is telegraphed to Nagasaki. Oki is more
wooded than Iwo, especially its southern summit. There is access to Nagasaki
Iiarbour by the channel East of Oki, between it and Koyaki.

The LIGHTHOUSE is situated on the end of a nan-ow ridge, i89 ft. high,-
IJ , v;I« within the extremity of Signal Head. It is a white hexn;^onal iron
tower., JJoft. high, showing nfixcdhriyht liglit, elevated 205 ft, and visible 21
miles, but eclipsed landward between E. |- S. and S.W. by S., outside Mitzusc
Hocks. Lat. ;i2° 43' N., long. 129^ 45' 13" E.

Hirase Bock, cohering at high water only, lies 4 cables from the eastern
shore of Iwo, and E. by S. ;^ S., 11 cables, from Signal Head; although not
directly in the fairway, it is in the route of vessels beating in and out. There
do not appear to be any other dangers near it. On it is a conical stone beacon
bearing ;i bail, elevated 20 ft., and painted in red and white bands. The biuft'
of Papenburg Island, bearing E. J S., leads 3 cables North of it.

Sotonohirase Eock, also covering at high water, lies 9 cables off the S.W.
shore of Iwo, and S. by W. J W., 1 j^ mile, from Signal Head, It is steep-to
in 17 fathoms on the outside, but this depth is continued on a spit running 1
mile N.W. by W. from the rock, its outer part in 18 fathoms being W.S.W.,
1 1 mile, from Signal Head, witli 37 to 38 fathoms on all sides.

Kutsno se and Kuro se Sockis.— Kutsno se, 10 ft. above high water, lies
inshore of the Sotonohirase, at 1^ cable from Iwo. Kurose is a large straggling
reef, of which the southern and highest part is 15 ft. above high water. North
and N.W. of it several reefs dry in ports oa the foul rocky ground between it
and the South end of Oki, from which it is distant 4 cables.

Taka sima, ;» miles S. by W of Signal Head, is about 7 cables in extent,
and has a precupitous ridge about 900 ft. high on its eastern side, and a smaller
ridge over the cliffs on its western or sea-face. Its shores are very rugged,
with reefs extending 1^ cable off its North and AS'cst points. Three small
islands, about 120 ft. high, Tohi .lima to the North, and Fittuho sima (two
islands) on the South, lie in line. North and South of its Eaat face. The latter
two are connected together, and fringed by reefs.

There arc coal mtnes in operation on the East side of Taka .^imri, yielding
coal of very fair quality ; in 1883, the output amounted to 252,949 tons, valued

'hi

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THE JAPANESE ARCHIPELAGO.

at about SJ Jollnrs per ton. The only ancliorngc is on the West side of the
isltnd, in 2 to 7 fathoms, on a bank of coal and sand, which, at 3 cables from
the shore, deepens suddenly to 1j and 20 fathoms. Siuiill vessels nii^ht anchor
there in fine weather and smooth water, but the anchorage cannot be rcconi-
jncnded to large vessels requiring coal.

Hi sima and Nagano airna, \i and 2 miles S. by W. and S.S.AV. respectively
from the siimmit of Taka sima, are smooth-topped islands, about 120 ft. in
height, with rocky shores, reefs extending more than a caWe off their southern
points, Nagano sima is 4 cables S.W. of Ili sima, with about 14 or 16 fathoms
in the passage between.

Mitzuse Eo?ks, the outermost dangers in the approach to Nagasaki from the
South, lie 3^ miles S.W. of Taka sima, and N.W. ■} W., 2^ miles, from the
summit of Nomo saki. They spread irregularly over an extent of half a mile,
the interior rocks of the group covering with the tide. On the northernmost
rocks are two pointed islets, GO ft. in height, with outlying patches on the East
and West ; the south-eastern of the group is a bare rock, about 6 ft, above
high water.

NOMO SAKI, or Cape Nomo, is the S.W. extremity of the peninsula of
Nagasaki. At a distance it has the appearance of an island, and, when near-
ing it, cannot be mistaken for any other land in its vicinity, though the mis-
taking of this cape for the South point of Kaba sima led to the wreck of the
Sn/sumn steamer. From the West or S.W. the island Kaba sima will be seen
off the low point East of the cape. At cables North of the cape is Xomo
yama Poi?i(, which rises steeply to the wooded summit of a prominent hill,
Nomo yama, immediately beneath which, on a small bare shoulder towards the
sea, stands a look-out house. The coast between is broken and rocky, and
skirted >Aith dangerous rccf;j. which dry out in patches to a quarter of a mile.
At 2 cables off the cape is an inaccessible islet called Nomo liock, surrounded
by small, low, detached rocks, most of which cover.

Nomo ura, the entrance of which is 1 mile N.E. of Nomo yama Point, is a
fimall and perfectly-sheltered harbour, 6 cables in length, and from 1 to 2 ca-
bles in breadth. Within, there is a depth of 5 fathoms, but it is only accessi-
ble to small vessels, having not more than 9 to 10 ft. at high water in the
deepest part of it? narrow entrance, which is only 100 yards acro.ss.

The West Coast of Nagasaki Peninsnia, northward of Nomo yama Point,
is bold, with a few outlying rocks, and may be passed at 2 or 3 cables, in 10
to 13 fathoms. To the N.E. of Noiao ura the coast is low as far as a billy
point 2 miles distant. Off it are several long reefs, drying out in patches. No
part of this coast should be approached within half a mile.

The const for 3 miles N.E. by N. of this hilly point is bold, with soundings
of 5 to fathoms near the shore. It lies under a succession of hill ranges,
which terminate at a point abreast a group of rocky islets, North of which
point the small bay of Oofco tnura affords anchorage in G to b fathoms, A con-

./-

>l"

KIUSIU ISLAND— NAGASAKI BAY.

001

'est side of flic
t 3 cables frosii
■Is mi};lit anchor
iinuot be lecoin-

\Y. respectively

bout 120 ft. ill

ff their southern

1 or 16 fathoms

gasaki from the

miles, from tlio

of half a mile,

10 northernmost

chcs on the East

bout 6 ft, above

the peninsula of
and, when ncar-
though the mis-
he wreck of the
iima will be seen
e cape is Noma
prominent hill,
ilder towards the
and rocky, and
[uartcr of a mile.
loci:, surrounded

yama Point, is a
from 1 to 2 ca-
t is only acccssi-
igh water in the
cross.

)rao yama Point,
3 cables, in 10
as far as a hilly
', in patches. No

with soundinffs

of hill ranges,

S'orth of which

iithoms. A con-

spicuous smooth-topped conical islet, South of the islet group, is very notice-
able close off this coast.

Suzume, ii bare rock, about 50 ft. high, is the north-western of this group of
islets. Ni) si'ma, the southern, and all the other islets, are wooded and low,
and surrounded by large reefs.

Koyaki is the largest island off Nagasaki, and is situated directly S.W. of
the entrance, which may be gained by the channels both East and West of it.
This island is not high, but very hilly, its two ». ef elevations being 371 and
412 ft. Numerous reefs and islets border its broken outline, and on its eastern
side there is a mass of reefs in ti;e South channel.

An islet, named Joka sima, lies 5 cables W.S.W. of Mumcnoki, the South
point of Koyaki, and at 3 cables farther on is Hadmjase Rock, probably united
to Joka sima, as the large reef on which that islet stands stretches far towards
the rock, as it also does towards Mumenoki. Iladagase may be passed at 4
cables on its West side, in 26 fathoms.

Eageno Island, about 3J^ cables in extent, and 218 ft. high, appears part
of Koyaki, as it is only separated from its North point by a narrow boat-
passage. Naginato or Ilunyry Rock, which covers at high water, lies a cable
East of its N.E. point, off which is a small islet.

LIGHTHOUSE. — On the North point of Kagcno is a stone lighthouse, 16 ft.
high, showing a ^xcrf rfr/light, elevated 40 ft., and visible 8 miles between
W. by N. and S.E. i E., through North.

Eamino sima, at 6 cables North of Kageno, is the largest island on the
northern side of the fairway to Nagasaki. Its North hill is elevated 330 ft-,
and on its central hill, which is lower, is a signal-staff. On the East side there
is a small boat camber ; on the S.W. the small flat island of Siro simn, on
which there is a batterj-, connected with a work on Kamino sima by a cause-
way of masonry.

North-westward of Siro sima are the two small islands Ahio sima and ^f(tts
«i»m. Aino sima, Ij cable distant, is a flat table island, about (iO ft. high, on
a reef, with a conspicuous rock* close off its South point ; Mats sima, 5 cables
N.N.W. of Siro sima, is a small hill 100 ft. high. There is deep water in the
passage between Siro sima and Aino sima.

Barracouta Book. — Off Kabuto «aki, the S.E. point of Kamino sima. on
which there is a battery, are some small islets. At 1 cable from these, S.AV.
of Tree Kock, and W. by N. of the South bluff of P.ijienburg, is the Barracouta,
R sunken rock, which may be cleared to the southward by kecpin;: the summit
of the coast range (800 ft.) over Megami Point open of Papenburg, bearing
East.

Papenburg, or Takaboko, 2 cables S.E. of Kamino sima, is the small pro-

* This rock or islet was the oKi rvirp p^ce of Sir EdwHrd Brlchor, in 1842, from whidft
■evural meridian liistniicoa were nioaiiurcd U) Lu-clui, Uuel|Htrt, itc

■

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I ,:

902

THE JAPANESE AECHIPELAGO.

cipitous island covered with dnik foliage, which so well marks the entrance to
the harbour. It may be passed at half a cable, in 18 fathoms. In 1G3G a
massacre of Japanese Christians took place here, they being hurled over the
cliff and dashed to pieces on the rocks beneath. At one-third of a mile to the
N.E. of it is the small flat wooded island A^czttmi sima,* lying off the small bay
of Kibatsu, East of the large village of Kosedo. Foul ground extends about 3
cables 8.E. of Nozumi.

Swinger Kook, discovered by II.M.S, Swinger, 187G, a dangerous sunken
rock, about 8 ft. square, with only 4 ft. on it at low water, lies nearly midway
between Ogami Point and Papenburg Island, and in the fairway of the entrance
to Nagasaki Harbour. To clear it, keep Signal Head well open of Kabuto
saki fort.

The HASBOUR of NAGASAKI, an arm or inlet running in a north-easterly
direction from the head of Nagasaki Ray, is large and commodious, thoroughly
sheltered from all winds, and available for ships of all classes. From its en-
trance, which is 3 cables wide between Ogami Point on the West and Megami
Point on the East, it runs 2 miles N.E. by N. to the city, increasing to a
breadth (although irregularly, owing to several bays on its shores), of three-
quarters of a mile. Above the city it narrows again, taking a northerly direc-
tion for another mile to its head, which is exceedingly shallow. The depths
decrease gradually from IG fathoms at the entrance to 4 fnthoms off the city.
There is a battery on Ogami Point, and a temple stands on the South extreme.
A sunken rock lies about 70 yards South of the East extreme.

Megami Point is at the foot of a steep ridge, on which are three batteries,
one above the other. At 1 J en.blc within it (a small islet lying between them)
is another point, on the extreme of which, in a battery, was a remarkable large
tree.

The harbour has three approaches. The principal one or fairway is directly
from the N.W., the entrance of which, 4 miles outside the harbour, is between
Fukuda saki and Iwo sima, and carries vci-y deep water, 32 fathoms, decreasing
to 20 fathoms in the passage between Papcnbuig andKageno, and again to 15
and 16 fathoms at the entrance of the harbour.

The second iipproach is by Oki Channel, between Oki sima and Koyaki, but
it is only .3 cables in breadth, and further narrowed by the reefs which extend
into the channel 1^ cable from cither shore. There are irregular soundings of
7 to 19 fathoms in it, and the best course through is midway between the reefs
which are seen. Neither this channel nor its approaches have been yet
thoroughly examined.

The third approach is by the South channel, between Koyaki and the main,
and can only be used by steam-vessels. Narrow and intricate amongst tho

• Thp observing place of Itichards in 1856, from which meridian distancrs were meaHured
to Hong Kung, liiikodato, &o.

■ IJH, III II" '#,*»> '

KIUSIU ISLAND— NAGASAKI.

903

the entrance to
ns. In 1G36 a
urled over the
af .1 mile to the
fT the small bay
xtcnds about 3

igcrous sunken
nearly midway
of the entrance
pen of Kabuto

north-easterly
3US, thoroughly

From its cn-
^st and Megami
ncreasing to a
)vcs), of thrco-
lortherly dircc-
'. The depths
ms off the city.
South extreme,

hree batteries,
between them)
markable largo

way is directly
)ur, is between
ms, decreasinar
nd again to 15

id Koyaki, but
which extend
r soundings of
ween tlie reefs
ave been yet

and the main,
amongst the

i wure meaaured

reefs, with soundings varying from 4 to 15 fathoms, it cannot be recommended,
and can only be taken at the risk of the navigator.

Ilishmo Haul; which fronts the shore from Dcsima to the foreign settle-
ment, is a good and convenient place for grounding. Its western edge is steep,
but off Desima, W. by S. of the Dutch Consulate flagstaff, the bank is very
flat. Thi- is the anchorage recommended especially for gimboats and other
small vcs-els.

The u>ual anchorage for men-of-war is just above the British Consulate
Bluff, large ships anchoring in G to 7 fathoms rather over towards Minayc
Point,* at this the broadest part of the deep water of the harbour. Merchant
vessels usually anchor off the foreign settlement in 4 to G falhoius, or even
above Dcsima in 3 fathoms. In the hot weather of July and August, great
relief may be experienced from the closeness of the atmosphere, and it will be
beneficial to the health of the crews to spring the ship's broadside to the sea
breeze, which, in fine weather, is almost constant from the S.W., and generally
very fresh, until about the middle of August, when laud a;id sea breezes occur.
The best anchorage for holding ground and weather, clear of town, creeks, and
drains, is with Owara Creek bearing S. 55° E., and Minajje Point S. 50° W.,
in 6^ fathoms. The anchorage northward and inshore cf the hulk moored off
Owara Creek should be avoided, as the surface of the bottom is coated with
about a foot of soft slimy mud, through which light anchors drag easily.

The CITY of NAGASAKI, a treaty port, at present second only in im-
portance to Yokohama, and which was the only ])lacc of trade open to
foreigners between 1G23 and 1857, covers a broad valley on the eastern side
of the harbour, surrounded by lofty hills. Its population amounts to about
-10,000; there were 248 European residents in 1884. Nagasaki is one of the
five imperial cities of Japan, and is under the jurisdiction of a governor hold-
ing his appointment from the Mikado.

Desima, the historic site of the Dutch factory, and artificially formed, pro-
jects into the harbour on the S.W. side of the city, to which it is only con-
nected by a stone bridge. Shaped like the border of a fan, it is 250 yards in
length, and 80 yards in width, and is traversed by a central street. Desima
contained the residences and warehouses of the Dutch community, the Con-
sulate be'ng situated at its &.W. angle. At the broad steps at its West end is
the best place for landing at the city.

The Chinese community, numbering 644 in 1884, occupy the square secluded
block of houses S.E. of Dcsima, connected with the shore by a bridge. They
compose a trading guild and factory.

The foreign settlement is on the flat South of Dcsima, having a water front-
age of 730 yards ; it also stretches up the valley on Owara Creek on the South.

• Tho rock on the South side of Miniige Point, to wliicli all the meridian distances aro
referred, is u convenient and quiet spot for t«king observations.

wmm

I i

iiy

904

THE JAPANESE AECIIIPELAGO.

The British Consulate is upon the bluflf South of this creek, where there is a
good landing-place. There arc also two landing-places in front of the settle-
ment, but only the lower one can be approached at low water. The American,
French, and Portuguese Consulates are on the hills at the back of the settlement.

The Japanese Custom-house is situate directly East of Desima, but is not
accessible to boats before a quarter-flood. The exports chiefly consist of coal,
dried fish, rice, camphor, and tea, their value in 1883 amounting to £647,361.
The imports are chiefly cotton, cotton goods, kerosene, sugar, and metals, their
value in the same year amounting to £187,731. Of late years the imports
have been much fulling off in value, while the exports have largely increased.
Munitions of war, by the 14th article of the treaty, can only be sold to the
Japanese Government and to foreigners.

" Though Nagasaki is only third in the list of the open ports as regards the
extent of its trade, it stands first as regards the numbers and tonnage of the
shipping resorting to it. This apparent anomaly is due to its being the main
source of the coal supply for the East of Asia. No less than 158 of the ships,
of 75,226 tons, entered last year (1883), came here in ballast; and of that
number only 15 went out either in ballast or with cargoes other than coal." —
Mr. Consul Hall.

In 1883, 339 foreign vessels, M'ith a total tonnage of 239,149, entered here,
of which 211, with a tonnage of 145,705, were British. In the same yeai',
1,066 Japanese vessels entered, with a total tonnage of 410,462.

Dock. — There is a dry dock, 420 ft. long, with an entrance 89 ft. wide, and
a depth of 27 ft. over the sill at high water, on the West side of the harbour,
1 mile South of the Arsenal. To avoid a bank extending IJ cable E.S.E. of
its South side, the dock should be approached from northward of East. A
ridge, with 24 ft. over it at high water, existed across the entrance, but this
was being deepened to 27 ft. A red mooring htotj is moored in 34 ft., at low
water springs, and a vessel 400 ft. long would just swing clear of the bank at
half tide.

I There is also a Patent Slip, 550 ft. long, capable of taking a vessel of 1,600
tons.

'Time Signal, — A guu is fired at noon, local mean time, a red and white
triangular flag being hoisted 5 minutes before.

Supplies, — All provisions are plentiful (mutton excepted), cheap, and easily
obtained, as also is wood and water ; the latter is brought off in boats to the
shipping. Coal is abundant ; there are several mines in the vicinity, the chief
of which is in operation at Taka sima. There is a Japanese Government
Bteam-factory and arsenal at Akunora, on the West side of the harbour, where
there are facilities for repairing iron vessels.

The telegraph cable from Shanghai is landed on the peninsula of Senbon,
after passing northward of Kageno sima and Iwo sima. Vessels are forbidden
to anchor in its vicinity, its direction being marked by beacons on shore.

Wf-"-

KIUSIU ISLAND— NAGASAKI HAUIiOUR,

90o

llioro there is a
It of the settle-
I The American,
' the settlement.
|ima, but is not
consist of coal,
bg to £647,361.
Ind metals, their
ps the imports
rgely increased,
be sold to the

s as regards the
tonnage of the
being the main
58 of the ships,
St ; and of that
!r than coal." —

9, entered here,
the same year,
2.

39 ft. wide, and
of the harbour,
cable K.S.E. of
rd of East. A
trance, but this
n 34 ft., at low
of the bank at

vessel of 1,600

red and white

eap, and easily
n boats to the
inity, the chief
ie Government
larbour, where

ila of Senbon,
I are forbidden
on shore,

Pilots, cither Japanese or European, can always bo obtained. It is said that
they are well acquainted with their business, and that it is their custom to
take entire charge of the navigation of the ship ; but great caution should
be used in this respect, as some of them have only knowledge of particular
localities.

Tides. — It is high water at Nagasaki, on full and change, at 7*' 15™ ; springs
rise 9 ft., neaps about 7i ft., but they are variable. The current in the harbour
is always sluggish. A strong southerly wind is said to raise the levei of high
water at springs to 2 ft. above the ordinary level.

DIRECTIONS.— The entrance of Nagasaki, although safe of approach, is
sometimes difficult for a stranger to make out from a distance, especially in
clear weather, when the islands blond with the mainland ; but on nearer ap-
proach, or in slightly hazy weather when the islands appear in relief, the un-
certainty is removed. It is said that vessels from the S.W. are very liable to
make the entrance South of Iwo sima.

When making Nagasaki from S.W. or West, steer for the lighthouse and to
round Signal Head, the North end of Iwo sima, at a quarter of a mile, taking
care not to bring the light to bear northward of N.E. by N. (on which bearing
it is obscured) on approaching it. By keeping the light in sight, or during
the day keeping the North point of Iwo sima bearing eastward of N.E. by N.,
will clear the shoal water off the dangerous Soto no hirase Bock. After round-
ing the head, steer E. i S. for Papenburg Bluff, passing it as closely as con-
venient, but taking care to avoid Barracouta Rock ; then E.N.E. for the en-
trance. At night do not bring Iwo sima light to bear northward of W. J N.

Passing in raid-channel between Ogami and Megami Points, a N.E. course
direct for the Dutch flag on Desima will then lead up in the best water, and
when the factory of Akunora, on the West shore, opens of Minage Point,
N. by W., a large vessel should haul up N.N.E., and anchor in 6 fathoms be-
tween it and the British Consulate or foreign settlement.

In approaching from the north-westward, the coiu-se from IJ mile S.W. of
Hike sima is S.E. by E. Iwo sima will be made without difficulty (appearing
end on, and under the mountain range Kawar.,yama, the highest on the Naga-
saki Peninsula), and passing about 1 luilc northward of it Papenburg will be
seen over the three low islands outside Kamino sima.

There is little or no difficulty in entering or leaving Nagasaki at night, if the
weather be fine, as the light on Signal Head, Iwo sima, is visible 21 miles in
clear weather, and the red light on Kageno sima now greatly facilitates night
navigation ; but should a vessel, from calms or adverse winds, be unable to
enter, every endeavour should be made to get inside Papenburg if it be the in-
tention to anchor, for outside this island the water is inconveniently deep, and
it would be preferable to stand off and on till d<aylight, taking care not to de-
crease the soundings below 30 fathoms.

Iforth faci/ic. 5 z

,<.>jiB

■" '« If '

■.■fr

' li

^j!..-

I!'

906

THE JAPANESE AECIIirELAGO.

Anchornge can, however, be found in 20 to 20 fathoms, over a bottom of thick
green oazc with fine sand, good holding ground, or possibly rock or sand and
shells if near Hiraso Ifock. A vessel will lie here sheltered from all winds ex-
cept N.W., but exposed to the swell from that qiarter. There is also anchor-
oge East of Pnpenburg and Kageno, in 13 to 17 fathoms, or in 11 fathoms on
a bank S.W. of Megami Point ; the bottom here is mud, and the shelter good
except from West. Towards the eastern shore the ground is irregular and
probably rocky.

The East Coast of Nagasaki Peninsula.— About 22 miles of the eastern
side of Nagasaki Peninsula has been surveyed. It has generally a bold steep
coast, but there are several places on it where a vessel, blown to leeward of
Nomo saki by West winds, will find anchorage and good shelter from them.

Kaba simr., 2 miles East of Nomo saki, is covered with steep hills about 400
feet high ; its shores are mostly bold and abrupt, with rocks a cable off them.
Kabasima Bay, between Nomo saki and Kaba siina, affords anchorage at its
N.W. part only, open between S.E. and S.W., with reefs drying IJ cable off.
The eastern part of the bay, where a long sandy beach is seen, should be
avoided, there being a sunken rock. Bay liocl;, with 6 ft. Mater on it, and 4
and 6 fathoms about it, lying li mile E. I N. from Nomo Rogk, and 1 mile
N. i W. of the West point of Kaba sima.

Misaki Bay, North of Kaba sima, and East of the low jutting point and
sandy beach where stands the large village of Misaki, affords anchorage in 7
to 11 fathoms. It is gained from the westward by rounding, at not less than
2 cables distance, the South and S.E. points of Kaba sima, the latter a steep
hca'^ from which steer to pass outside a low reef (East Hocks) 1 mile N. by E.
of that head, which being passed, steer N.W. J W. into Misaki 13ay, and anchor
cither in 10 fathoms East of the flat rocks (on which may be seen a large bam-
boo erection used by the fishermen, whose nets it will require care to avoid) ;
or, passing North of the flat rocks, anchor in 7 or 8 fathoms. The channel
North of Kaba sima has a depth of G to 17 fathoms, but is only a cable wide.
Between East Eocks and Kaba sima the reefs leave only a narrow 4-fathom8
channel. Fish is plentiful here.

Tameitsi Bay is 4i miles N.E. of Misaki. To enter it, steer for the village
at its head, and when Kaba sima shuts in behind the southern point of the bay,
anchor in 10 fathoms or less, about 2 cables off" shore. Sitziwura, a small bay
2 miles ftirther N.E., has anchorage in 9 to 10 fathoms, at 2 cables off" shore.
Between Sitziwura and Mogi Bays, islets and reefs extend 2 or 3 cables from
the shore.

Moyi, another small bay, is 5^ miles N.E. of Tameitsi. Small craft can an-
chor in 3 to 6 fathoms, sheltered except from South to East ; and larger vessels
in 9 to 1 1 fathoms ofl" the entrance.

Aba Buy, 3 miles N.E. of Mogi, and 15 miles from Kaba sima, is rectangular
in shape, 1 i mile deep, and 1 mile in breadth. 'I'here is anchorage in the

I li!

' mm mmmmmimm

bottom of thick
ck or sand and
•ra nil winds ex-
is also nnchor-
11 fathoms on
the shelter good
s irregular and

s of the eastern
lly a bold steep
n to leeward of
?r from them,
hills about 400
cable off them,
nchoragc at its
ng IJ cable off.
iccn, should be
?r on it, and 4
gk, and 1 mile

tting point and
anchorage in 7
^t not less than
5 latter a steep
1 mile N. by E.
I3ay, and anchor
en a large bam-
!aro to avoid);
The channel
a cable wide,
•row 4-fathoms

for the village
3int of the bay,
'•a, a small bay
bles off shore.
3 cables from

1 craft can an-
l larger vessels

is rectangular
horage in the

KIUSIU ISLAND— SIM A!) AHA GULF.

907

centre, in 7 fathoms, open only between South and S.E. There is a boat
camber at the village on its western side. There is a road hence to Nagasaki,
only 3 miles distant. Maki sima, on the East side of Aba Bay, cxloscs on the
N.E. a harbour for small vessels, having 10 to 12 ft. water, accessible by two
narrow passages.

SIHABARA GULF.— Of this large gulf, which extends 70 miles into the
heart of Kiusiu, comparatively little is known. Siinabara, a large and broad
peninsula, so situated as to make this gulf an inland sea, has on its eastern
shore a city of the same name. In the centre of the peninsula is an active
volcano, i'zcii, 5,000 ft. high, a dark cloud of smoke usually resting over its
summit ; to the eastward is a second summit rising at the back of the city.
This is the focus of a wide volcanic region, and is associated with some of the
severest earthquakes on record, one of which, in 1 'i 93, was felt throughout
the whole of Kiuxiu, and is said to have changed the configuration of the
whole coast-line of the adjoining province of Higo, and the general form of
its territory.

Jlaya saki Channel, the passage into Simabara Gulf is about 2 J miles wide.
In its entrance is a rock imcovcring 5 ft. at low water, reported by Captain
Stevens, of the steam-ship Filipino. It bears N. 20" W. from the East ex-
treme of Tsuji sima, on the South side of the entrance, and N. 64° W. from
the East extreme of Oosima. Several other rocks are reported to lie south-
word of it. The tide runs with great velocity, producing whirlpools. On
clearing the entrance, the flat-topped island I'm sinia is seen ahead.

Knchinotsu, or Futsiuolsu, a junk harbour at the S.l', end of Simabara
Peninsula, is the place of shipment for coal from the Muke mines, the output
of which amounted to 142,3 10 tons iu 1883. On its western entrance point is
a white ligJithouse, 16 ft. high, showing ajixed hri<jhl liyht, elevated 126 ft.,
and visible 8 miles seaward between North and W.S.W.

Simabara. — Abreast this town a bank of Z^ fathoms extends at least half a
mile from the shore, and there is probably no safe anchorage close to the town.
Spring tides rise 14 ft. On a small island at the northern entrance to the an-
chorage is a white tower, 23 ft. high, showing ajixed bright liijhl, elevated 35
feet, and visible about 6 miles.

The head of Simabara Gulf is shallow and full of dangers, and vessels navi-
gating it should avoid the very turbulent " chow-chow " or disturbed water.
Tsikitgo (jawa, a river at the head, is reported to have a depth of 12 ft. on the
bar ; Saga, a city famed for its porcelain ware, is situated westward of the
entrance.

AMAKUSA, a large island 23 miles in length, lies 2i miles S.S.W. of Sima-
bara Peninsula, and between them is the western entrance to the gulf. Two
harbours, Tomioka and Sagitsu-no lu-a, on the western coast, afford shelter.

Tomioka, E. ^ S., 14 miles, from the South point of Kaba sinm, is a lagoon-
like harbour, on the eastern side of a small peninsula, which fjims the N.W.

" |V

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IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)

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Photographic

Sciences
Corporalion

33 WEST MAIN STREET

WEBSTER, N.Y. M5S0

(716) 873-4503

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THE JAPANESE ARCHIPELAGO.

point of Amakusa. The harbour is formed by a low wooded tongue of land,
curving round to the westward and enclosing it, giving complete shelter, the
entrance being from the S.E. by a channel pnly 150 yards wide, carrying 5
fathoms water close along tho South side of the low tongue. A vessel may
anchor in the centre of the harbour, in 6 fnthoins.

Sagitan no ura, or Kame wa, 14 miles S. by W. of Tomiokn, is a narrow
inlet extending 4^ miles o^s'ward, the channel leading to its narrow entrance
being rocky and uneven. Nearly 2 miles north-wcstwnrd of the entrance are
n low rock and two pinnacle rocks, forming good marks. A rcof appears to
extend N.N.E. from them towards Taka hama, a rock about 2 miles distant.
The land around the harbour is high, and well cultivated. Supplies and water
can be obtained at Susinolsu, the principal village ; beef is moderately cheap.
The head of the inlet is shoal.

On the South side, within the entrance, is Kame Ufa, almost closed by a
bank of shingle. A shoal of less than 3 fathoms extends from its West point
towards the North shore, and only 4 fathoms can be corried ot low water be-
tween, and in passing through this narrow channel care must be taken to avoid
a sunken rock off the North shore. In entering, after passing the North point,
keep the northern shore on board until Kame urn opens out. Round the pro-
montory facing Kame ura at half a cable until the channel leading to the inner
anchorage opens, when anchor as convenient. The best anchorage is half a
mile N.E. of the narrow pass, off Min-ga sima Islet, in 7 to 10 fathoms, per-
fectly sheltered from ull winds. It is high water, on full and change, at S** ;
springs rise 9 feet.

£oto no ura. South of Sagitsu no ura, has a series of detached reefs in its
centre. Kotame Bay, on the South end of Amakusa, has a depth of 8 to 10
fathoms, and is well protected by Kasu sima. A reef lies in the centre. In
rounding Kasu sima do not approach too near the S.E. rock, as reefs have been
observed breaking outside it.

OTENTOSAMA SEA, between the western shore of Kiusiu and Amakusa
and numerous other islands to the eastward, extends in' a N.E. direction for 41
miles with an average breadth of 6 or 8 miles. It is studded with islets an<\
rocks, and communicates by two channels v ith Simabara Gulf. The northern
part is shoal, and blocked by sand-banks and rocks. Naga sima lies at the
southern entrance to this spacious inland sea, leaving only narrow channels on
either side. JCuro no seto, the southern entrance, is a safe and clear strait, but
should only be passed at slack water, as the tides run with great velocity. The
channel inside the Otentosama Sea, between Sisi sima and the islands to the
westward, is foul.

At 17 miles southward of Kuro no seto is Yoshiku muaki, th« western point
of a mass of high land rising to a peak 1,694 ft. high. At 1 mile N.N.W. of
it is Kamo tima, a small tower-like rock, 20 ft. high. The river Stndai kawa,

tongue of land,
plete eheltiT, the
wide, carrying 5
A vessel may

oka, is a narrow
narrow entrance
the entrance are
reef appears to
2 miles distant,
pplies and water
loderately cheap.

lost closed by a
its West point
t low water be-
)c taken to avoid
;he North point,
Hound the pro-
ling to the inner
lorago is half a
fathoms, per-
i change, at S"";

lied reefs ia its
pth of 8 to If,
the centre. In
reefs have been

and Amakusa
Jireetion for 4 1
irith islets and

The northern
»a lies at the
w channels on
lear strait, but
velocity. The
islands to tho

western point
e N.N.W. of
Sttidai kawa,

KRJSIU ISLAND— TOMARI URA.

navigable for 20 miles by boats, enters the sea 3^ miles northward of Yoshika
misaki ; at its entrance is the large fishing village of Oumiiaki,

At 3 miles S.S.E. of Yoshiku misaki is Haahima taki, 4^ cables S.W. of
which is Okino sima, a densely-wooded islet 301 ft. high. In the bight east-
ward of this point there is good anchorage in 7 fathoms off the village of
Hashima, sheltered from northerly and westerly winds. At 4^ miles south-
eastward is Nagataki bana, a rocky shelving point, with n dangerous reef ex-
tending over half a mile southward of it. From hence to the southward is a
long stretch of sandy beach for 19 miles, backed by low hills. A*in/>o«an, 2,100
feet high, with three summits, lies about 4 miles from the coast. Near the
centre of this bight, and 5 miles off shore, is Futa sima, a bare rock, 126 ft.
high.

Noma no hana, the most western part of Kiusiu, is cliiTy to seaward, and
surrounded by detached rocks, mostly above water. Xome Jima and Iltraie,
a group of islets and rocks, lies nearly three-quarters of a mile northward of it,
with sunken rocks between. Hence the coast trends 3^ miles eastward, form-
ing rocky points, as far as Kata ura.

Kata ora is a small harbour, completely sheltered from all winds, and pro-
tected by two islets. The squalls arc, however, violent, especially with westerly
winds. Inside tho bay is the village of Kata, and at its head is Ko ura village ;
fish, fowls, and occasionally a bullock mny be otained here. The entrance is
somewhat difficult to make out, and, as foul ground extends for about two-
thirds of a mile northward of tho eastern entrance point, care should bo
taken to keep well over to the westward, until sufficiently close to make out
the two small islets off the entrance, between which is the fairway in, 2| cables
wide. A large ship will find the best anchorage in 12 fathoms, mud, abreast
Kata village ; a ship of moderate size may anchor farther in. Near the head
of the harbour it is shoal for some distance from the shore. It is high water,
on full and change, at G** 55" ; spriiigs rise 8 ft., neaps 2 to 3 ft.

From Noma no hana the rocky coast trends 6 miles S.S.E. to Tsuruha saki.
Noma no take, a peak 1,964 ft. high, is conspicuous from seaward. Beroejtma,
3^ miles 8.E. i S. fro:n Noma no hanc is 8 cables long, and was covered with
grass and stumps of dead trees. SAe wan she, a rock with less than 6 ft. water
over it, lies 2 miles N.W. by W. from Tsuruha saki ; the sea breaks heavily
on it in bad weather. Tsuruka saki rises as an almost perpendicular cliff from
a base of detached rocks extending 2^ cables from it. Sura take, 816 ft. high,
lies 1^ mile inland from it. Sushi ura, to tho southward, is very open and ex-
posed, and of little use as an anchorage.

TOMABI XJEA, 9j^ miles South of Noma no hana, is a sheltered harbour,
protected from all winds except those from West and S.W.; and from these
quarters the sea is broken by a cluster of detached rocks stretching south-
eastward from the North entrance point, O she, the southernmost rock, being
96 ft. high. At the head of the harbour is a village on a sandy beaoh, where

910

THE JAPANESE ARCHIPELAGO.

small quantities of fowlo, fisii, &o., may b« procured. The coast hereabouts is
rooky, and numerous detached rocks extend from 1 to 2^ cables off nearly all
the prominent points.

Between she Uook and a small rock, dr}-ing 1 foot, half a cable off the
South entrance point, the entrance is 4 cables wide, and when within it the
rocky islet, Matu sima, will bo seen on the South side of the harbour ; and the
course may be altered to the eastward to pass it. Large ships should anchor
in 11 fi^thoms, with O she open about three times its breadth northward of
Matu sima. Vessels of moderate size will find bettor shelter by anchoring
more to the southward in 9 to 10 fathoms, with the summit of Matu sima in
line with O she. It is high water, on full and ohocge, at 7** 10"; springs rise
8 ft., neaps 3 to 5 ft.

The situation and capabilities of Tomari ura render it an important harbour,
especially as one of refuge to ressels experiencing signs of a typhoon in tho
neighbourhood of Van Diemen Strait. Indeed, it is the only secure harbour
on the coast for 130 miles N.E. of Sata no misaki. In deciding to bear up for
it when tho weather showed unmistakeable signs of a coming typhoon, it would
be necessary to bo sure of making it before thick weather came on.

Me laki, 1^ mile South of Tomara ura, is a cliffy point, with two sunken
rocks 1 cable off it. Tide-rips are frequent westward of it, and between it
and Okaimon daki patches of discoloured water will often bo met with at 1 or
2 miles off shore.

Makara Bay, 3^ miles East of Me saki, is 2 miles wide, and on tho sandy
beach at its head stands the town of Makurn. Tatle se, a pinnacle rock 145
feet high, lies 2 cables off the western point. Anchorage, sheltered from
northerly and north-westerly winds, may be had off the town. The depths
decrease regularly, with sandy bottom, but the West side shoals some distance
from the shore.

From Shemmi hana, the East point of Makura Bay, tho coast trends 4}
miles eastward to Akaeshc hana, and thence 2 miles south-eastward to Okaimon
daki (p. 783) ; it is fronted generally by a sandy beach.

Tides. — Between Noma no hana and Me saki the flood sets to the northward
along the coast ; tho streams run 2^ to 3 knots an hour during springs, causing
tide-rips off the prominent points. Between Me saki and the entrance tu
Kogosima Gulf, neither stream is very strong within 2 miles of the shore,
enabling sailing ships to work along shore to the westward.

XOSHIKI ISLANDS, consisting of two large islands with numerous smaller
islands, lies 12 miles off the mainland of Kiu3iu, and extend 20 miles N.E. and
S.W. lliey are very hilly, the highest peak, Oda yama, on the northern coast
6f the southern island, attaining an altitude of 2,036 ft. The inhabitants are
poor and ill-clad, and are principally engaged in fishing and agriculture. This
grf up wo^ examined by Commander Aldi-ich, II.M.S. Sjflvia, 1879, and the
fullowicg description is taken from his report.

'^0^

hereabouts »
off nearly all

cable off the
within it the
>our ; and the
lould anchor
northward of
)y anchoring
Motu siina in
springs rise

tant harbour,
)hoon in the
ecure harbour
to bear up for
loon, it would
in.

1 two sunken
id between it
t with at 1 or

on the snndy

aelo rock 145

ihcltcrcd from

The depths

some distance

ast trends 4^
rd to Okaimou

he northward
rings, causing
) entrance tu
of the shore,

eroiis smaller
lies N.E. niid
orthern coast
labitants are
ulture. This
}79, and the

KIUSIU ISLAND— KOSHIKI ISLAND.

Oil

Shlmo no Koihiki, the largest and southern island, is about 12 miles long,
and 4 miles wide at its broadest part, the northern part tapering off to a narrow,
rocky, and hilly promontory. Teuchi ura, on the South coast, affords shelter
from all but southerly winds, in 8 fathoms, in about the centre of the bay, off
a large village. Ilocks extend off both points, the reef from the western en-
trance point narrowing the entrance to less thar. 5 cables. Ttubura tlaki, the
N.W. point of the island, is cliffy, rising abruptly to two sharp peaks about
530 ft. high. A rock, awash, lies aearly 2 cables West of it. To the south-
ward the East coast is rocky and steep, for n distance of 5 miles, to Oda yama
hnna, southward of which are two open bays, wirh a village in each ; near the
southern village is a fine waterfall.

Jmita no teto, the narrow channel separating Shimo no Koshiki from Tuira
jima, is navigable with due precautions ; but the current runs 2 to 3 knots or
more at springs, and overfalls form on either side. The passage is narrowed
at one part to less than 2 cables by reefs which project from either shore.

Taira Jima, about 3 miles long, and connected to Kami nn Koshiki by a
reef, forms in two or three hills of over 900 ft. in height. Rocks extend nearly
5 cables off the S.E. point, amongst them being a conspicuous islet 175 ft. high,
with trees on its summit.

Slami no (or Naka) Koshiki, the northern and most important island of the
group, is of irregular formation, the S.W. coast being broken up by inlets and
bays ; the South coast is steep and cliffy, and on the N.E. shore is a sandy
beach enclosing a long narrow lagoon. A group of detached rocky islets, with
several sunken rocks among them, extends 4 miles E.N.E. from the N.E. point,
in the channels between which the rapid tidal stre^ us cause tiue-rips and over-
fulls. The ebb sets to the S.E., and it is then dangerous to approach them
closely.

Nishi no ura, a deep bay on the North shore, affords shelter from all but
North and N.W. winds. The water shoals gradually to the village at its head.
iSato ura, a small bay on the East side of the island, affords no anchorage.

Talsu Maru, on the S.W. side of the island, affords secured and sheltered
anchorage. From the entrance the inlet extends northward for 1^ mile, and
is 4 to 5 cables wide ; it then branches into two narrow arms. Large vessels
should anchor about half a mile inside the entrance. Vessels of moderate size
may anchor in 16 fathoms, abreast the opening to the eastern arm, and small
vessels in 9 to 10 fathoms in the northern arm, abreast the village. The eastern
arm is too narrow for anchorage, but a vessel could be safely benched at its
head. It is high water, on full and change, at 1^ 40*°; springs rise 7^ ft., neaps
3 to 5 feet.

Eastward of the South point of Kami no Koshiki the coast forms a double
bight, in the eastern of which there is good anchorage. Kamita hana, sepa-
rating these bays, is very rocky ; and a reef, drying at low water, extends 21
cables from it.

913

THE JAPANESE ARCHIPELAGO.

• I

11
l;

"i|!

.i''J

iiii

W '
m :

lilt;

Naka Konfiiki ura, the western bay, extends three-qunrters uf a mile to the
N.E., and at its head is the chief village of the group. Good anchorage muy
be obtained in 7 to 8 fathoms, sand, 4^ cables from the village, and midway
between the rooky and shelving shores. A few fish, fowls, eggs, ko., may bo
obtained.

Knro Kami, a pinnaole rook 72 ft. high, lies 3 miles K. i N. fro.ii the N.K.
point of Kami no Koshiki, and between arc several islets and rucks, the pas-
sages between which should not be attempted.

Haka no M, or Pioneer Rocks, discovered by H.M.S. Pioneer, in 1861, are
two dangerous rocks, the highest, 8 ft. above high water, lying about 2} miles
S.W. of Kuro kanii. The channel between Kuro kaiui nnd Kamo sima, off
the Kiusiu coast, is 9 miles wide, and in fine weather is perfectly safe. In
thick weather, however, Naka no so is dangerous, and vessels should then
keep to the eastward of it, where the depth is less than 30 fathoms, while
westward of it the depth is 30 to 45 fathoms.

During August and September a constant southerly set was experienced in
mid-channel between the Koshiki Islands and the coast, and allowance must
be made for the westerly set which occurs on the ebb stream South of Hashima
saki.

Taka sima, or the Symplegadei, a group of five small islets, extending 2
cables East and West, and H cable wide, lies S. by E. \ E., 11^ miles, from
Na saki, the S.W. point of the Koshiki Islands. They were examined, with
the groups to the S.W., by Lieut. Pearce, H.M.S. Sylvia, 1875. From the
northward or southward they appear as three : the S.W. and highest, 210 ft.
high, assumes a triangular shape ; the S.£. islet, 1 89 ft. high, has a round
summit; and the centre islet has the form of a pillar. The N.E. islet has two
pinnacles. Two small rocks lie South of Taka sima ; the eastern, 2 ft. above
high water, lies S. \ E., nearly 4^ cables, from the summit of Taka sima; the
western rock, 4 ft. high, lies 2 cables S. ^ W. from the same summit. A 15-ft.
shoal lies 1 cable S.E. } E. from the western rock. It is high water, on full
and change, at about 7^; springs rise about 9 ft. The ebb stream runs strongly
to the south-eastward.

Tsokara m, or Retribution Rockt, were discovered by H.M.S. Retribution,
in 1858. They lie S. ^ W., 8^ miles, from Taka sima, and consist of four
rocks, divided into two groups by a channel nearly 1 cable wide. When bear-
ing North or South they appear as two pinnacles, and when bearing East and
West only three are visible. The southern rock is 9G ft. high, and the northern
pinnacle 90 ft. high.

Udsi sima, or Roche Poneii Islands,* lying 15 miles S.W. of Tsukaru se,
extend 5 miles N.E. by N. and S.W. by S., and consist of four islands, with

* Thus named (and deservedly so, if a European name ia admisaiblu), after the Ingenieur-
hydrogxaphe of the French Expedition under Admiral Cecillo ia 1816. , > > . , ,

•■I'tmr '

MHMiaiMMIMitdUM

DIRECTIONS— NAOAf?AKI TO 81MON08EKI STRAIT. 013

numerous rocks around them, the channels between the islands being naviga-
ble. The central and principal island is 1} mile long, with a conspicuous
conical summit 1,097 ft. high. Off the N.W. point are several pinnacle rocks,
among them being the Iluycock, 330 ft. high. A conical islet, 190 ft. high
lies near the S.K. point. At 1 mile E. by S. ^ S. from the S.W. point is u
small rock covering at high water, and at three-quarters of a mile from the
same point is another, 2 ft. above high water. Double IilanJ, 8 cables West' oi
the S.W. point, is 227 ft. high.

East Itland, three-quarters of a mile eastward of Udsi sima, is 344 ft. high ;
the channel between is narrowed to about half a mile by ofT-lying dangerous
rocks, and here Ashing-boats find shelter. An islet, 132 ft. high, lies a short
distance North of East Island, and a quarter of a mile from the East Hide are
two rocks 12 ft. high ; the eastern shore is cliffy, and fringed with off- lying
rocks, f^ami sima, or Chimney Bock, the southern rock, is 185 ft. high, and
2 cables long, lying S. by W. } W., 2^ miles, from the South extreme of Udsi
sima ; a small islet lies close to its North extreme.

ir the Ingeuieur.

DIEECTIONS from NAGASAKI to SIKONOSEKI STRAIT.— In passing
through the archipelago which encircles the western coast of Kiusiu, there arc
not more islands than just sufficient as good marks in thick weather. Their
coasts are generally bold ; anchorages abound, and an offing may generally be
made before nightfall, should that or the approach of thick or stormy weather
render it desirable. The tides are regular within the islands. Outside, the N.E.
stream is almost constant in the offing.

]f proceeding outside Ilirado, after leaving Nagasaki, steer N.W., unless
wishing to pass outside Hiki siiaa. A run of 16 miles will place a ship abreast
thut island, and a further run of 1 3 miles on the same course will lead up mid-
cliannel between Ou tate and Yenoi sima, from which position a N.N. W. course
for 11 miles will reach the islets off the S.W. point of Ilirado. Puss a milo
outside these islets, und also of the A^'.ika sima 3 miles North of them, unless
intending to take the Obrce Channel (p. 88G), in which case pass inside them,
and steer N.E. by N. directly for it.

Coasting Hirado and Ikutski on a N.N.E. course, a run of 13^ miles from
Ou Azika simu will place a vessel off the North point of Ikutski ; then steer
N.E. by E. for 7 miles until past Use, the small rock off the N.W. face of
Atsusi no O sima, which, if not seen, may be cleared by keeping the summit
of Mudara in line with the summit of Mats' sima, bearing K. ^ N. Fussing
Usfi at Ij mile distant, niter course to E. by N. f N. to pass in mid-chunnel
between Futnkami and Madura, from whence at night Yebosi light should bo
North I'ucijic, 6 A -

914

THE JAPANESE ARCHIPELAGO.

■1 1|
11

sighted in clear weather ; oontinue on the same oourfe, pawing about 1 mile
westward of Vnbou tima. When that island or light bears S.K., alter course
to N.E. by I . ^ £. to clear Kuri no kami or Swain Reef, and pass northward
of Wilson Island, being careful lest the eastern tidal stream into the Strait of
Simonoseki, which sets rather strongly through the ehannels East of Wilson
Island, should set the yessel on to that reef.

By night, keeping Yebosi light bearing southward of S.W. by W. i W.,
will lead fully 2^ miles westward of Swain Keef; and the above course
(N.E. by E. i E.) continued on, should lead 1} mile westward of Kosime no
Oiisima.

THBOUOE 8PEZ STRAIT.— The inner passage from Nagasaki to the
Inland Sea by Spez or Hirado Strait is 15 miles less in distance than that out-
side Hirado, but it is seldom that a vessel is not obliged to anchor somewhere
for the night

The coatt rouU is taken by vessels who know the land, and in thick weather
prefer to sight it, and feel their way along from point to point. A more direct
course, however, is to steer straight for Ko tate or Bonnet Rock, but allowance
must be made for the current which, in the vicinity of Ou tate, and to the
southward, sets N.W. and S.E. ; so that a vessel in thick weather, and accord-
ing to the state of the tide, may be set either to the westward and northward
of her reckoning, or to the eastward, and towards the main. Having sighted
the easily-distinguished Ko tate, the bold bluff at the West end of Kuro sima
can be steered for, taking care to avoid that great danger, the Fukushe, marked
by a beacon, and remembering also the low rock otf the Went end of Kuro
sima.

After sighting the bluffs, vessels should steer for the South coast of Hirado,
which con be boldly approached to 1 or 2 cables, and by keeping it in sight at
2 cables distance the Costa Rica and Robinett Rocks will be avoided. Vessels
can run along the East coast of Hirado to the North as far as Kawatchi Bay,
when it is necessary to steer for the opposite shore, to avoid the Asama, before
entering the narrow port of Hirado Strait, at Red Cliff Point, from which the
vessel must be guided by the directions on pages 888-9.

When clear of the northern entrance of the strait, the course along the land
is N.E. by E. to Hato saki, distant 17 miles, steering for the clump beyond it
which is on the East bluff of Ogawa, the eastern of the three islands North of
Hato saki and Yobuko, and passing between the bluff S.E. point of that island
and the dangers South of it, but this channel is narrow and somewhat dan-
gerous. The same course will lead well outside the No o ze or Dove and
Nagamo or Ellis Reefs, which are 3 miles off shore, and may both be covered,
and outside but rather close to Swain Reef.

A preferable track may be pursued from Spex Strait, steering from it on a
N.E. I E. course to pass between Madura and Kagara, and rounding the N.W.
point of the latter at u mile ; from this a N.E. by E. i £. course will lead up

'4aii

SEA OF JAPAN— TSU SIMA.

015

about 1 mile
alter courM
M northward
the Strait of
St of WiUon

by W. i W..
tbove ooune
>f Koaime no

[asaki to the
ban that out-
ar somewhere

thick weather
A more direct

}ut allowance
9, and to the
r, and accord-
id northward
aving sighted
of Kuro sima
tushe, marked

end of Kuro

ist of Hirado,
; it in sight at
ided. Vessels
[awatchi Bay,
AHttma, before
>m which the

iong the land
imp beyond it
inds North of
of that island
mcwhat dan-
or Dove and
h be covered,

from it on a
ing theN.W.
will lead up

close to the West point of Wilson Ishutd, passing half a mile westward of
Yebosi.

Should the passage have been made by the Korea Strait, after rounding the
North point of Iki sima, steer E. f N. for the Siro simas at the entrance of the
Inland Sea, passing well northward of Orono sima with a elear run of 55 miles.
The tidal streams here are not Tery well known.

The 8SA of JAPAX, bounded on the East and South by the Japanese
Archipelago, and on the West and N.W. by the coasts of Korea and Russian
Tartary, is about 900 miles long, N.N.E. and 8.S.W., and GOO miles wide,
East and West, at its broadest part. As far as is known, it is clear of rocks or
dangers, with the following exceptions:—

Lianoonrt Sookl were discovered by the French ship Lianeourt, in 1849 ;
they were also called Menalai and Olivutsa Rocks by the llussian fri)>ato
Palla*, in 1854 ; and Hornet Islands by H.M.S. Hornet, in 1855. Captuiu
Forsyth, of the latter vessel, gives their position as lat. 37° 14' N., long.
131° 55' E., and describes them as two rocky islets, covered with guano, ex-
tending about 1 mile N.W. by W. and 8.E. by E., and apparently joined by a
reef. The western islet, about 410 ft. high, has a sugar-loaf form ; the eastern
is much lower, and flat-top ped.

MAT8T7 8I1IA, or Dagtlet Island, is a collection of sharp conical wooded
hills, crowned by an imposing peak, 4,0U0 ft. high, in the centre, in lat.
87° 30' N., long. 130° 53' E. It is 18 miles in circumference, and there are
several detached high rocks along its shores, some reaching an elevation of
400 to 500 ft. The shores are so steep that soundings could only bo obtained
by the Actmon'i boats, almost at the base of the cliffs. Landing may be
effected in fine weather with difiiculty. In spring and summer some Koreans
reside here, and build junks; they also oolleot and dry large quantities of
shell-fish.

Waywoda Rook is said to have been discovered by the Russian corvette
Watfwoda. It appeared to be 12 ft. high, 70 ft. broad, and its approximate
pmition is lat. 42" 14f N., long. 137° 17' E.

TSU SIMA, at the southern entrance to the Sea of Japan, in the Korea
Strait, is 37 miles long, N.N.E. and S.S.W., and belongs to Japan. Some
reefs and rocks lie off its. North and 8.W. ends ; a bertli, however, of 1^ mile
will dear everything. At high water a deep sound divides it into two parts,
the eastern part of this sound being an artificial canal, with 4 ft. in it at high
watF". The southern portion is mountainous, rising to a height of 2,126 ft.,
and on the North side is a double sharp peak, 1,700 ft. high, named Urfama,
forming like asses' ears when bearing 8.E. The northern portion is much lower.
The western entrance to Tsu sima Sound is 1^ mile wide, and clear of danger
except close to the shore. This spacious inlet possesses a large number of small
landlocked harbours and basins, all of them having deep watesy and vessels

. I

I-
I

!!i;l

.lilil

916

TIIE JAPANESE ARCHIPELAGO.

can moor to the rooki and trees. VeMeb requiring to be here down would
find this sound well adapted for careening purposes.

The Actmon anchored in 9 fathoms in Jma-haru Bojf, on the South side of
the entrance, about 2 cables South of ObserTatory Kook, the southemmoat of
two small rocks connected with the mainland at low water. This is a conTe-
nient anchorage for sailing vessels, or if only intending a short stay. Wood,
water, and vegetables were obtained, and some cattle and pigs were seen ; the
cornfields swarmed with pheasants. Coal exists on the N.W. side of the
island. It is high water, on toll and change, at S** SO", and the rise is 8 ft.

Itiuhara Bay, on the East side of Tsu slmo, in lat. 34° 12', is open from
E. by S. to S.E. by 9. Ittuhara, the capital, is situated on the N.W. shore.
The telegraph cable between Japan and the Korea is landed here.

^'iro Bay, at the N.E. end of Tsu sima, in lat. 34° 30', is reported by the
Japanese to be a good and safe anchorage at all times. , ,

The JAPAHE8E CVRREVT.— In the Chapter devoted to the Currents this
remarkable stream will be more particularly described in its extent, but a
few words here will form a fitting conclusion to this description of the Japan
Archipelago.

On the Jafianese charts the current is noticed as passing eastward off the
S.E. eo^at of Nipon, and is called Kuro Siwo, or the Black Stream, or KurO'
sertatoa. the current of the Black Gulf, from the bluish-black colour of its
w&ters. It was noticed by all early navigators, and more extended observation
has sfau^vn its analogy with the Gulf Stream of the Atlantic.

This immense oceanic current has its origin in the great North Eqoatorial
Current, which, on reaching the eastern shores of the Philippine Islands, is
deflected to the northward, and forms, eastward of the South end of Formosa,
the commencement of the Kuro siwo. Hence it flows rapidly between the
East coast of Formosa and the Meiaco sima group, and then takes a north-
easterly direction, westward of the Lu-chu IsUmds. Off the South end of
Kiusiu a branch turns to the northward into the Sea of Japan, gradually de-
creasing in velocity, and again flowing into the ocean through Tsugar and Im
P^rouse Straits.

The main body of the current passes to the E.N.E. between the islands
North of the Linschoten group, and through Van Diemen Strait, and then
along the southern shores of Kiusiu and Sikok, forming, near its margin, races
and tide-rips. After flowing through the chain of islands southward of Yedo
Gulf, the northern edge of the current leaves the coast of Nipon, and flows in
a north-easterly direction, a cold Arctic current, setting to the southward, in-
tervening between it and the N.E. shores of Nipen and Yezo. It now com-
mences to expand, its velocity greatly diminishes, and in about 160° E. it

THE KURO 8IW0.

017

re down would

e South aide of
outhernmost of
bis is a conve-
• ttajr. Wood,
irere seen ; the
V. side of the
) rise is 8 ft.
, is open from
9 N.W. shore,
re.
iportcd by the

I Currents this
eitent, but a
of the JopoQ

tword off the

am, or Kuro-

colour of its

)d observfttioa

th Equatorial
le Islands, is
I of Formosa,
between the
ikes a north-
South end of
^dually de-
sugar and La

divides, one stream, known as the Kamchatka Current, flowing to the north-
ward to Behring Sea, and the greater portion continuing to the eastward,
merging in the general easterly drift.

During the S W. monsoon the drift current ftom the China Sea joins the
main body of the Kuro siwo, which attains its greatest velocity, 2 to 3 knots
an hour, when abreast Sikok, where it has been known to set 100 miles in 24
hours. At thin season its maximum temperature is 86°, which differs about
12° from that of the occn due to the latitude. Off Nipon the N.W. edge of
the stream is strongly mark'.d oy a sudden thermal change in the water of firom
10° to 20° ; but the southern and eastern limits are less distinctly defined,
there being a gradual thermal approximation of the air acd water. A floating
seaweed is found in the stream, resembling the Fucum natant of the Oulf
Stream. ^

This current, howcTer, is considerably influenced in its limits and Telocity
by winds and local causes, as hereafter described.

Along the borders of the stream, where it chafes against tl counter currents
and torpid waters of the ocean, as also in its midst, where whirls and eddies
are produced by islands and the inequalities in its bed, strong tide-rips are en-
countered, often resembling heavy breakers on reefs or shoals.

& the islands
Ait, and then
margin, races
rard of Yedo
and flows in
mthward, in-
It now com-
it 160° E. it

( 018 )

I!!

1 :i 1

1 .. , ,

It. i

■■ 1

! .1 !

SECTION III.

THE ISLANDS OF THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN.

In the companion Tolume to thia—that deaoribing the South Pacific Ocean —
allusion has been made to the imperfect notion that i* giren by inspecting a
map, of the importance and relative siae of the innumerable islands which are
scattered over these oceans. In many instances the minute coral spot, which
makes a considerable feature on the chart, could not be visibly represented of
its proper dimensions ; and this exaggeration is enhanced by the several names
by which it is distinguished, which seem to add to its siie and area. By far
the greater number of islets are of this coral formation. A few of the we'l-
known groups are volcamc, lofty, and of considerable dimensions ; but the
aggregate area of the dry land of the coral islands is remarkably small. In
most instances it is a mere strip surrounding the central lagoon, but of sur-
passing fertility, and supporting an immense population in proportion to the
actual area.

With a large proportion of the groups we are sufficiently intimate to affirm
that they are tolerably well represented; but in many instances they have not
been so acciirately surveyed as they ought to be, and the sameness of their
character renders this remark of the more importance, as it is difficult in many
instances to distinguish between small spots which so much resemble each
other. In the ensuing lists and descriptions we have stated the authority on
which the descriptions and the geographical position depend.*

As the structure, growth, and foundation of the coral islands is among the
most wonderful of all natural problems, we give here some extracts from the
work of Charles Darwin, Esq., who, while he accompanied the late Admiral

• In this edition it has not been thought neceissry to repest the quotations of the antho^
lilies which were given in *xttn»» in the flnt edition. To that work we, therefore^ refer the
reader who may he interested ia the history of the hydrography of the Paciflot

'i t

THE ISLANDS OP TIIR NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN.

019

■iom: but the

y uRoy in the Expedition in the Btaglt, aeeumulatod thoao atoree of know-
ledge which he made such abundant um of in later yean. We eonflne the
eztracta ttrictly to thoae remarks bearing on the structure of the coral islands.

Ur. Darwin says :— I will now givo n rery brief sooount of tho thrao gratt claaaei of
coral reafa, namely, Atolla, Barriar, and Fringing Reefc, and will explain my *iowa on thoir
formation. Almost eTorjr voyager who hni croaaod tho Paoiflc haa eipreat jd his nnboundod
astoniihment at the lagoon iilanda, or aa I ahull for tho future uall thom by their Indinn
name of Atolls, and haa attempted aomo explamition. Even aa long ago ait <hn yoir 1606,
Pyrard de Laval well exclHimod " C'ett una moruillo do voir chacun de cer 'nlloni),
anuironn6 d'un gnind banc de pierre tout aulour, n'y ayant point d'nrtiflco humai". The
immeniity of the ocean, the fury of tho breakora, contruted with thn lownoai of tl o lnn>l
and the amoothneas of the bright groon water within tho lagoon, can har 1' bo im '^irinod
withont having been seen.

In previoua tho< 'ir' •• moat important conaidarotion hua boon ovurloohpd, nam.! v. on
what have the reof-builJing curals, which cannot livu at a groat depth, bused t)i 'ir .M.j<tive°
structui

Numerous soundings worn carefully taken by Oaptain FitsRoy on tho stoop outsido nf
Keeling Atoll, and it was found that within 10 fithoms the prepared tallow at thn bottom
of the load invariably rame up murkt-d with the impreraion of living corals, but as per'«ctly
clean as if it had dropped on a carpet of turf; as the depth incroiitud tho iutprcMions became
leas numerous, but the adhering particles of sand more and moro numerous, until at last it
was evident that tho bottom oonsistoJ of a smooth sandy layer : to carry on the analogy of
the turf, tho blades of grasa grew thinner and thinner, till at laat the soil wasrostorilo that
nothing sprang from it. From thoao obiervations, conflrmod by many othars, it may be
safely inferred that tho utmost depth at which the corals can conatruct rcofs is botwoon 20
and 30 fathoms. Mow there are enormous areas in the Pacific and Indian Ocsami, in which
ovory single island is of coral formation, and is raised only to that height to which tho waves
can throw up fragments, and the winds pile up sand.

From the tsot of the reof-building corals not living at groat depths, it is absolutely cer-
tain that throughout vast areas, wherever there is now an Atoll, a foundation must have
originally existed within a depth of from 20 to 30 fathoms from the surface. It is impro-
bable in tho highest degree that broad, lofty, isolated, steop-sided banks of sediment,
arranged in (p^ups and lines hundreds of leagues in length, could have been deposited in
tho central and profouuddst parts of tho Pacific and Indian Oceans at an immense distance
from any continent, and where the water is quite limpid. It is equally improbnblo that the
elevatory forcea should have uplifted, throughout the abovn vaat areas, innumerable great
rocky banks williin 20 to 30 fathoms, or 120 to 180 feet of the surface of the sea, and not one
single point above that level; for where, on the whole surface of the globe, can we find a
single chain of mountains, even a few hundred miles in length, with their many summita
rising within a few feet of a given level, and not one pin- «ole above it f If, then, the
foundations whence the atoll-building corals spring, were not formed of sediment, and if
thoy were not lifted up to the required level, they must of necessity have r'tbaided into it ;
and this at once solves the difficulty. For as mountain after mountain, and island after
island, slowly sank beneath the water, fresh bases would be successively afibrdod for the
growth of the comls.

lief ore explaining how Atoll reefs acquire thoir perpendicular structure, we must turn to
tho second great class, namely, Barrier Rcofs. These either extend in straight lines in front
o' the shores of a continent or of u large island, or they encircle smaller islands ; in both

w^ — ^

920

THE ISLANDS OF THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN.

caacs being separated from the land by a broad and rather doop channel of water, analogous
to the lagoon within an atoll. It ia remarkable how little attention has been paid to encir-
cling barrier reefs, yet they are truly wonderful structures. In the Island of Bola-Bola tho
whole line of reef has been converted into land ; but usually a snow-white line of great
breiikers, with only here and there a single low islet crowned with cocoa-nut trees, divides
the dark heaving waters of the ocean from the light green expanse of tho lagoon chnnoel.
And the quiet waters of this channel generally bathe a fringe of low alluvial soil loaded with
the most beautiful productions of the tropics, and lying at the foot of the wild, abrupt, cen-
tral mountains. Encircling barrier reefs are of all Hizas, from 3 miles to no less than 41
miles in diameter ; that which fronts one side, and encircles both ends of New Caledonia,
is 400 miles long. The depth within tbe lugoon channel also varies much : from 10 to 13
fiithoms may be taken as an average ; but at Vnnikoro there are spaces no less than 56 fa-
thoms, or 336 feet deop. Internally the reef either dopes gently into the lagoon channel,
or ends in a perpendicular wall sometimes between 200 or 300 feet under water in height ;
externally the reef rises, like an atoll, with extreme abruptoess out of the profound depths
of tho ocoan. What can be more singular than these structures ? We see on island, which
may be compared to a castle situated on tho summit of a lofty submarine mountain, pro-
tected by a g^roat wall of coral rock, always steep externally, and sometimes internally, with
a brood level summit, here and there breached by narrow gpateways, through which tho
larg^t ship can enter the wide and deep encircling moat.

As far as the actual reef of coral is concerned there is not the smallest difference in general
size and outline, grouping, and even in quite trifling details of structure, in a barrier and an
atoll. The geogrnpder Bulbi has well remarked that an encircled island is an atoll, with
high land rising out of its lagoon : remove the land, and a perfect atoll is left.

But what has caused these reefs to spring up at such great distances from the shores of
the included islands P It cannot be th:it the corals will not grow close to the land ; for tho
■bores within the lagoon channel, when not surrounded by alluvial soil, are often fringed
by living reefs ; and we shall presently see that there is a whole class, which I have called
Fringing Reefs, from their close attachment to the shores both of continents and of islands.
Ag^in, on what have the reef-building corals, which cannot live at great depths, basod their
encircling structures P This is a great apparent difficulty, aualogous to that in tho case of
atolls, which has generally been overlooked.

On what are these barrier reefs bused P Are we to supposo that each island is surrounded
by a collar-like submarine ledge of rock, or by a gteaX bunk of sediment ending abruptly
whore the reef onds P If the soa had formerly eaten deeply into the islands bufore they
were protected by tho reofs, thus having left a shallow ledge round them under wator, the
present shores whould huvo invariably boon bounded by groat precipices ; but thiu is very
rarely the case. Mor< vor, on this notion, it is not possible to explain why the corals
should havp sprung up, like a wiiil, from the extreme outer margin of the ledge, ofton
leaving a broad space of -water within, too deep for the growth of corals. The accumulation
of a wide bank of sediment all around these islands, and generally widest where the in-
cluded ulands are smallest, is highly improbable, considering their exposed positions in the
central and deepest parts of the ocean. On what then are these barrier reefs based P Why,
with their wide and deep moat-like channels, do thoy stand so far from tho included land P
Wo shall soon see how these difficulties disappear.

We come now to tho third class of Fringing Reefs, which will require a very short notice.
Where tho lond slopes abruptly under water, these reefs are only a fow y-irds in width,
forming a mere ribbon or fringe round the shores ; where the land slopes genuy under tho
water, the rcof extends further, sometimes as much as a mile from the land ; but in such
cases tho soundings outside tho reef always show that the submarine prolongation of the

AN.

rater, analog^as
9n paid to encir-
)f Bola-fiola tho
ite line of great
at trees, divides
lagoon channel,
i soil loaded with
Id, abrupt, cen-
10 less than 44
^ew Caledonia,
from 10 to 13
less than 56 fa-
flgoon channel,
ater in height ;
)rofound depths
m isknd, which
nountain, pro-
intemallj-, with
ugh which tho

ence in general
A barrier and an

an atoU, with
)ft.

D the shores of
e land ; for the

often fringed
i> I have called
and of islands.
Ihs, based their
b in tho case of

is surrounded
ding abruptly
Is bufore they
ior water, the
it this is very
'by the corals
5 ledge, often
accumulation
fhere the iu-
isitions in the
asedP Why,
oludodlandf

short notice,
rds in width,
^y under tho
but in such
at'on of ilio

THE ISLANDS OP THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN.

921

land is gently inclined. In fiwt, the reeb extend only to that distance from the shore at
which • foundation within the reqaisite depth, from 20 to 30 fathoms, is found. As far as
the actual reef is concerned, there is no essential difference between it and that forinini< a
barrier or an atoll ; it is, however, generally of a less width, and consequently few iilet«
have been formed on it. From the corals growing more rigorously on the outside, and
from the noxious effect of the sediment washed inwards, the outward edge of the reef is
the highest part, and between it and the land there is generally a shallow sandy channel
a few feet in depth. Where banks of sediment have accumulated near to the surface, as in
parts of the West Indies, they sometimes become fringed with corals, and hence in some
degree resemble lagoon ixlunds or atolls ; in the same manner as fringing reefs, surround-
ing gently-sloping islands, in tome dog^ree resemble barrier reefs.

No thwry on the formation of coral reefs can be considered sutisfactory which does not
include the three great classes. We have seen that we are driven to believe in the sub-
sidence of those vast areas, interspersed with low iitlands, of which not one rises above ihe
huight to which the wind and waves can throw up matter, and yet constructed by animals
requiring a foundation, and that foundation to lie at no great depth. Let us, then, take an
iitland surrounded Xty fringing reefi, which offer no difiSculty in their structure, and Itt this
island with its reef slowly subside. Now, as the island sinks down, either a few feet at a
time or quite insensibly, we may safely infer, from what is known of the conditions fovuur-
hble to the growth of coral, that the living masses, bathed by the surf on the margin vu
the reef, will soon regain the surface. The water, however, will encroach a little bv litli<*
on the shore, the island becoming lower and smaller, and the space between the inner eog»
of the reef and the beach proportionably broader. Coral islets are supposed to have bum
formed on the reef ; and a ship is anchored in the lagoon channel. This channel will be
more or less deep, according to the rate of subsidence, to the amount of sediment accumu-
lated in it, and to the growth of the delicately branched corals which can live there. Wa
can now see why encircling barrier reefs stand so far from the shores which they front.
We can also perceive that a line drawn perpendicularly down from the outer edge of the
new reef to the foundation of solid rock beneath the old fringing reef will exceed, by as
many feet at there have been feet of subsidence, that small limit of depth at which the
effective corals can live ; the little architects have built up their great wall-like mass, as
the whole sank down, upon a basis formed of other corals and their consolidated fragments.
Thus the difiSculty on this head, which appeared so great, disappears.

If instead of an island we had taken the shore of a continent fringed with reefs, and
have imagined it to have subsided, a great straight barrier, like that of Australia or New
Caledonia, separated from the land by a wide and deep channel, would evidently have been
the result.

Let us take our new encircling barrier reef, and let it go on subsiding. As tho barrier
reef slowly sinks down, the corals will go on vigorously growing upwards ; but as the
island sinks, the water will g^n inch by inch on the shore, the separate mountains flist
forming separate islands with one g^eat reef, and finally the last and highest pinnacle dis-
appearing. The instu.nt this takes place a perfect atoll is formed. I have caid, remove the
high land from withiiA an encircling barrier reef and an atoll is left, and the land has been
removed. We can new perceive how it comes tiiat atolls, having sprung from encinling
barrier reefs, resembli': them in g^eneral size, form in the manner in which they are grouped
together, and in their arrangement in single or double lines ; for they may be called rude
outline charts of the sunken island over which they stand. We can further see how it
arises that tho atolls in the Pacific and Indian Oceans extend iu lines parallel to the pre-
Notth Paci/ic. 6 b

922

THE ISLANDS OF THE NOETH PACIFIC OCEAN.

vailing strike of the high iiland and great ooaat lines of thoae oooans. I ventare, therefore^
to affirm, that on the the<»7 of the upward growth of the corals during the sinking of the
land, all the leading features iji thoae wonderful structures, the lagoon islands or atoUs,
which have so long excited the attention of voyagers, as well as in the no less wonderful
harrier reeft, whether encircling small islands or stretching for hundrods of miles along
the shores of a continent, are simply explained.

The arrangement of the following pages is similar to that pursued in the
volume on the South Faoific, viz., the islands and groups are described in
belts of latitude, each 10° in width, and proceed from the eastern side to the
western side of the oceaD in succession! commencing in this work with the
Equator.

( 923 )

CHAPTER XII.

ISLANDS BETWEEN THE EQUATOR AND LAT. 10" N.

Following the plan adopted in the South Pacific Directory, we commence
from the coast of America, and include in this Chapter the groups of islands,
the Gilbert Archipelago, which lie on the Equator, the Marshall Archipelago
to the North of it, and the Caroline Archipelago, lying within the same belt
of latitude. t

MALFEIO ISLAND, in lat. 3° 55' N., or, according to Commander Aldham,
H.M.S. Swi/l, July 22, 1851, 4° 3*N., long. 81° 36' W., is a barren, high,
perpendicular rock, which may be seen in clear weather at the distance of 60
miles, the summit being 1,200 ft. above the sea level. A small quantity of
green moss, and a few dwarf bushes, which grow in its cracks and guUeya,
afford the only verdure that it possesses. It is surrounded with islets, and the
whole may extend about 9 or 10 miles, from North to South. The centre of
thio island bears a resemblance, in several points of view, to the crown of a
head, and its being bn.rrcu accounts naturally enough for the name (bald head)
which the Spaniards have bestowed on it. It is surrounded, as it were, by a
strong current, having much the appearance of breakers, which, setting into
the gulf, and, being accompanied by light winds, with thick and hazy
weather, Colnett did not think it deserving of any further attention. The
current was found to set N.E. by E., 2^ miles an hour. Another statement is
made that they run violently to the southward and westward near it, a differ-
ence possibly owing to the different seasons they have been observed in.
Colnett's was in July, 1793. The rock itself bos 40 fathoms alongside of it,
and 110 fathoms at a quarter of a mile distent.

RIVADENETBA SHOAL.—" Being on board the steamer Peru, abreast of
Puna, October 22, 1842, and hearing that there was a terrible yellow fever
raging at Guayaquil, the steamer put back, and I was placed on board a small
schooner going to Realejo. On the 28th, in the middle of the day, the sea
calm, we bad caught a large turtle, when I observfd, at a few fathoms off, a
slis^ht swell on the sea ; we took the boat and went to it, when we sounded,

924 ISLANDS BETWEEN THE EQUATOR AND LAT. 10° N.

and, to our astonishment, found only 16j^ft. (French ?) of water. In the centre
ot till!* cii •'■''■I' ><pot was only 10 ft. depth ; we then found 14, 16, 27, 56 feet,
and ihfi) IK) Imttom. By our very imperfect instruments we made it to be in
Irii. I IV N., iiu;;. 8S° 10' W. of Greenwich; but this we considered nearly
ooiTiv t, as we hastened on to Bealejo." — M. Rivadeneyra. \

'. .,v existence of this bank has been in some degree confirmed by the en-
quiries of Capt. Lapelin, in the French corvette La Brillante, in 1852. He
oscertuined that several vessels had struck on it, but did not gain any informa-
tion as to the correctness of the position assigned. Capt. Harvey, of H.M.S.
Havannah, passed within 4 miles of the place in July, 1857, without seeing
anything of it.

i i

1 1 '

; i-

;

Bvv

w»!

I :.^:i

COCOS ISLAND. — The discovery of this island is involved in obscurity. It
is mentioned as being well known by early navigators, Lionel Wafer, Dampier,
&c. Its more exact position and character appear to have been first ascer-
tained by the Spanish exploring ships, the Descubierta and AtreviJa, in 1791.
It was then visited, and, it is stated, surveyed, by Capt. Colnett in 1793. Ih
1 795 it was visited by Vancouver, who also examined it. There are some sin-
gular discrepancies in the accounts given by these different visitors, more par-
ticularly in those of the two last named. Vancouver states it to be 4} miles
in length, N.E. and S.W., while Colnett states it to be 12 miles; and the re-
s]>ective plans given also coincide with the descriptions. These discrepancies
were decided in Vancouver's favour by Sir Edw. Belcher, in 1838, who places
the Observatory at the head of Chatham Bay, at the N.E. port of the island,
in lat. 5° 32' 57" N., long, (corrected) 87° 2' 10" W.

The island, according to Mr. Whidbcy's account, is about 12 miles in circuit,
with several detached rocks and islets scattered around its shores. Off the S. W.
point they extend to the greatest distance, nearly 2 miles, and would be dan-
gerous if they were not sufficiently high to be seen and avoided.

The island itself is very high, sufficiently so to be seen at more than 60 miles
distant ; and Vancouvvi- says that he lost sight of it at 46 miles W.N.W., not
from sinking below the horizon, but from being obscured by haze. The West
side is the highest, showing in the form of a round hill, descending to the
northern extremity, off which lies a detached islet. From the eastward the
southern part appears to rise abruptly from the sea, in steep rugged cliffs, to a
considerable height. The northern side is indented into small bayo, with rocks
nnd islets lying near them. The shores are chiefly composed of broken cliffy
perpendicular precipices, beyond which the surface rises unevenly to the sum-
mit of the island, the whole composed of one rude connected thicket of small
trees, near the shore ; but on the more elevated and interior parts of the island
are many large spreading trees, among which are cocoa-nut trees, but not in
such abundance as to distinguish the island.

The one great advantage which Cocos Island offiers, is the abundance of

MJii

HMMB

COCOS ISLAND.

925

fresh water. Apparently it is quite pure, and is very easily to be procured at
those points to which vessels can resort. Fish are abundant around the shores,
but would not take bait ; sharks in large shoals, and very voracious, are among
the number. Fowl of the oceanic kind visit the island, and afford tolerable
food. The cocoa-nuts, also, have been of great service to earlier navigators.*
All the trees for fuel have been out, and in 1838 there were no cocoa-nut trees
remaining which were accessible. Pigs are abundant.

Chatham Bay is the easternmost anchorage on the island. Vancouver moored
here in 33 fathoms, sand and gravel, good holding ground and free from rocks ;
the East point of the bay, which is a small conical islet close to the N.E. ex-
treme of the island, bore S. 51° E., half a mile distant; the West point of the
bay, 8. 75° W. ; a steep rocky islet lying off it, from S. 87° W. to N. 66° W. ?
and the watering place at the mouth of a very fine stream emptying itself over
a sandy beach, S. 13° W., about three-quarters of a mile distant. Outside this
the water deepens almost immediately. This bay is quite open to the North,
and Colnett states that though he found the prevalent winds to be from South
and West, he had it frequently strong from N.E. and North. Anchorage in 7
to 10 fathoms will be found farther in.

Wafer Bay, as it is named in Colnett's plan, is to the westward of the
former, and 1 mile distant from the North point ; it may be easily known by a
small rugged barren rock, about the size of a large boat, lying about 1 mile
West of the body of the bay. The bay also lies East and West, but is not
adapted for vessels of above 200 tons ; it is nearly sheltered from all winds.
Vancouver says it is certainly not so eligible a situation for procuring the good
things the island afTords as the bay to the eastward, although a more copious
stream of water flows into it.

llie climate of the island is humid. Vancouver considered it (January) tem-
perate and salubrious, but had heavy rains. Colnett, who stayed longer, ex-
perienced almost constant and very heavy rain. Flies, too, were very abundant
and annoying.

The tide is an important object in anchoring here. The time of high water
is ai 2" lO*", rising and falhng from 16 to 18 ft. The ebb sets to the East
at the rate of 4 or 5 knots, and the flood, which is weaker, runs to the West.
They are uninfluenced by currents. The current around is strong and irregular,
but generally setting to the north-eastward at the rate of 2 knots.f

* Colnett states that his men drank nn excessive qunntity of the milk, which did not in-
toxicate, but 80 benumbed them that they were unable to move without assistance : this
continued for four or five days. — Voyage to the South Seat, pp. 67-8.

t Oallego Itland was plHced on the charts in lat. 1° 48' or 1* 8' X., long. 101* W. Duncan
Itland was discovered in 1787, it is said, by Capt. Duncan, in a merchant vessel. He says
the island is small and rooky, in lat. 6° N., long. 106* W. Admiriil Krusenstem says it is
probably the same island as L'lle do la Tassion, in 16° a\' N., 106° W. In 1872, C!om-

926 ISLANDS BETWEEN THE EQUATOR AND LAT. 10° N.

' WALKSB I8LAHDS. — A wide extent of ocean intervenes in this belt of
latitude between the positions of the foregoing islands and that of the reported
isolated cluster which are named as above. From a notice preserved by Mr.
Purdy, they were discovered by Captain Walker, in 1814, and consisted of a
group of small, low, and well-wooded islands, in lat. 3° 34' N., long. 149" 15' W.
On some charts they are marked as Low Woody Islands, but their existence
is doubtful. ■ u

JABVIS I8LAHD.— Although this island is to the South of the Equator,
it is so connected with the groups which are next described, that we give it a
place here. It was discovered by Captain Brown, of the English ship Eliza
Francis, August 2l8t, 1821. As it was surveyed by the Peacock and Flying
Fish of Comm. Wilkes, U.S. Exploring Expedition, December, 1840, the posi-
tion then ascertained must be preferred to others, lat. 0" 22' S3" S., long.
159° 54' 11" W. Wilkes describes it as a small coral island, triangular in
shape, 1} mile long East and West, and a mile wide North and South. No
reef surrounds it, and it may therefore be safely approached, but it was con-
sidered very dangerous. It exhibits the appearance of a white sandy beach,
10 or 12 ft. above the sea, without a tree or shrub, and but a few patches of
grass. A few sea-birds were seen about it.

It is one of the islands worked by the American Guano Campany, and tho
description given by Mr. J. D. Hague shows that it is a raised coral island, the
interior lagoon having disappeared, and its bed being now 7 or 8 ft. above the
sea, with many marks indicating the gradual retreat of the sea. The vessels
which came here for the guano moored to mooring-buoys in very deep water,
in the same manner as at Baker Island.

It is certainly the same as Bunker Island, and perhaps, as no mention is
otherwise made of it, as Brocks Island, placed in 1° 13' S., long. 159° 40' W.
The other authorities generally place Jarvis Island somewhat tc the West of
Captain Wilkes's longitude.

' CHBISTMAS ISLAND, a coral lagoon island, was discovered by Captain
Cook, in the Resolution and Discovery, on Wednesday, December 24th, 1777.
He remained there till January 2nd ensuing, and observed an eclipse of the
sun, and from the season gave it the name. It is, like all other islands of the
same nature, a belt of low land, enclosing a lagoon, which, however, m this
cose is very shallow. It is so low that the land cannot be seen more than 8

mander IIiirriB, U.S.N., raw no indication of land or shoal in these localities, and from
this and searchus mnde by other U.S. Te»' \ it is obvious that they do not exist.

For further particulurs of these, and other reported dangers, see the " lists of Reported
Dangers to Navignlion in the Pacific Ocean," compiled at the U.S. Bureau of Nuvigation,
Wauhington. '■ . . . - . ' ; ; .

: . 'it

10» N. .

this belt of
the reported
rved by Mr.
msisted of a

149" 1 6' W.
eir existence

;he Equator,
we give it a

ship Eliza
i and flying
40, the posi-
13" S., long,
riangular in
South. No
it was con-
andy beach,

patches of

ny, and the
il island, the
t. above the
The vessels
deep water,

mention is
159° 40' W.
he West of

by Captain
24th, 1777.
lipse of the
lands of the
rer, kx this
ore than 8

M, and from
ist.

I of Reported
Nttvigation,

CHRISTMAS ISLAND.

1 V

927

or 10 miles off. The entrance into the lagoon is on the N.W. side, and is
divided into two channels, fit only for boats, by a small island, on which Cook
landed his instruments, and planted some cocoa-nuts, yams, and melon-seeds.
Here he also left a memorial of his visit.

The low land is covered with stunted bushes, and a few cocoa-nut and palm
trees here and there. From the S.E. to the N.W. points of the island the coast
runs about N.W. by W. f W., 22 miles, a deep bay running to the northward
from a point of land about 13^ miles from the S.E. point, near which were two
conspicuous cocoa-nut trees, bearing about N.E. by E., true, when in one with
the point. Close to the S.W. point are (or were) two or three groves of cocoa-
nut trees, planted by Captain Cook. From the S.W. point the land trends
N.E. i N., 4} miles, to the entrance of the lagoon, and from thence it trends
N. by W. i W. to the N.W. point, which bears N. by E., 12 miles, from the
S.W. point. In 1872 it was stated that the cocoa-nut trees had nearly all dis-
appeared. • i

Cook's party dug for fresh water without success in several parts of it, con-
sequently it was uninhabited, except by flocks of sea-birds. They also caught
abundance of fish. No turtle were seen by Captain Scott, September, 1840,
although Cook found an abundance.

In 1872 this island was visited by the U.S. ship Narragansetl, and in 1874
by the Portsmouth, Commander J. S. Skerrett. The best anchorage is stated
to be in 10 or 15 fathoms, sand, midway between Cook Island and Christmas
Island to the no; ihward, just off a breaking reef. This anchorage is smooth
when the trades ore blowing, but if the wind be southward of S.E., or north-
ward of N.E., a heavy swell sets round the points. Guano has been obtained
here by the American Guano Company. Very inferior water may be obtained
by digging.

In November, 1867, the lumber barque J. C. Fremont was wrecked in the
large bay on the East side of the island, and Capt. Hooper went to seek it in
the brig John DurAap and the schooner Dolphin, in 1858. He says : —

" On the S.W. point is a grove of cocoa-nut trees ; on the North side of the
bay and lagoon are two or three clusters, and one towards the S.E. point. The
most distant clusters cannot be seen the one from the other, as they are 25
miles apart. In the large S.E. bay, where so many wrecks occur, there in no
anchorage ; the water is very deep close to the shore, with a strong tide and
surf setting on it. The land is not over 10 ft. above the sea level in any part,
and cannot be seen from a ship's deck more than 8 to 10 miles off. Navigators
should, therefore, be cautious in approaching it.

" A singular circumstance noticed was that the fish, in the large lagoon near
which the camps were erected, were all dead, and in passing over the water in
a boat they could be seen at the bottom ; also on the lee shore of this lake the
fish were piled up in a state of preservation ; on being broken in two they were

"J if I

■; J

. '!

028 ISLANDS BETWEEN THE EQUATOR AND LAT. 10° N.

•8 sweet and wholeaome as possible. The water of this lake is extremely salt,
and stronger than any piokle ever used in curing fish or meat."

The large bight at the East end of the inland is very dangerous, and a vpsscl
getting into it at night will have a small ohanoe of getting out after discover-
ing the breakers.

Cook places the small islet in the entrance of the lagoon, now named Cook
Jalet, in lat. 1° 59' N., long. 157° 30* W., and Capt. Scott, H.M.S. Samarang,
1842, confirmed this position. Commander Skerrett places it in lat. 1" 67' 1 7" N.,
long. 157° 27' 46" W. It is high water, on full aud change, at 4** 23" ; springs
rise 3 ft. 2 in.*

FAHNIHO ISLAVD was discovered by Captain Edmund Fanning, in the
American ship Betty, in 1798. The next recorded account of it was by Capt.
Legoarant de Tromelin, who came here in the French corvette La Bayonnaiie,
in 1828, but his description does not at all accord with that of the discoverer ;
perhaps the coral island had increased in the interval. Prior to 1855 an
Englishman, Capt. Henry English, had established himself here with a few
white companions and about 150 natives of Humphries Island and other places,
to trade in the production of cocoa-nut oil. They placed themselves under
British protection, when Capt. W. H. Morshead, K.N., came here in H.M.S.
2>i(/o, on October 16, 1855. It was visited by Capt. Pearse, in H.M.S. Alert,
in 1861, and was accurately surveyed by Capt. O. U. Uichards, K.N., in H.M.S.
Hecate, in 1863.t

Fanning Island is of coral formation, of the lagoon type, and in shape a rude
oval, 9} miles long, N.W. and S.E. Towards the centre it is about 3^ miles
wide, but towards its south-eastern end 5^ miles; and its circumference is 27
miles. It is skirted by a small reef extending all round the island, but only to
the distance of half a cable from the beach, and against this the ocean swell
breaks, but seldom with any violence. Outside the reef there is no danger of
any kind. The belt of land, which forms the island has an average breadth of
half a mile, and only at one spot, near its North end, does it e:;ceed three-
quarters of a mile ; it is densely covered with cocoa-nut trees, which produce

* Sarah Anna Iiland, announced in the New York Ttibune, Mnrch, 1858, as lying in
lat. 4* 0' N., long. 154* 22' W., i« doubtful, as Vancouver passed near the position. It may
be the same as Maiden Island, nearly on the same meridian, but in 4* South.

t It is not improbable but that this may be the American Itlet, stated by Kotzebue to
have been diHcovered by Captain Mather, of the Amerieatt, in 1814, 28' more to the West,
and hIso the JFeeka Itland of whaler report, lat. 3° 47' N., long. 168° 37' W. It is singukr
that Capt. Hudson, of the U.S. Exploring veuel Peaeoek, should be satisfled that there is
no other island than Washington Island hereabouts. He states that he diligently sought
for eight days the positions whore five islands have been reported to exist, but no land was
seen. IVrhaps the strong and various currents hereabouts may have led to some coofusiun.

FANNING ISLAND.

929

fruit of the very finest description, but the regularity of the forest is occasion-
ally broken by gaps, leaving thick clusters of trees standing apart, with a low
corul space between. One very conspicuoLs gap is near the N.E. point of the
island, and the continuity of the belt of land is greatly broken there.

Ensrlilh Harbour. — The lagoon is spacious, but generally shallow and Aill of
coral heads. The entrance is near the centre of the S.W. side of the island,
M'here the channel is about 1^ cable wide, but not navigable* for large vessels
over half that width. Just outside the entrance, 2i cables, W. by S., from the
flagstaff on the South point, the depths vary from 24 to 40 ft., decreasing to
15 ft. and less towards the coral reef. The northern side of the entrance is the
shoalest, and the depth at three-quarters of a cable from the northern shore
does not exceed 15 ft., but at one- third to half a cable distance from the
southern shore the depth is 30 and 32 ft. Inside is a tolerably extensive basin
which affords safe anchorage, in 4^ to 5 fathoms, bottom of coral and sand,
with the flag-staff bearing S.W. ^ S., distant 1^ cable. This is English Har-
bour, which Capt. Morshead said would be an invaluable spot for a rendezvous.
The holding-ground is good, and there is sufficient room for several vessels,
when properly moored, to lie in perfect safety. Farther in the soundings de-
crease to 16 and 12 ft., and there are besides several shoal spots ; beyond these
there is again deep water. Vessels should only attempt to enter this harbour
at slack water.

It is high w ater, on full and change, at 6** ; springs rise 3 ft. The stream in
the harbour tuins at high and low water, and runs from 4 to 5 knots.

Whaleman Anchorage. — There is excellent anchorage for ships on the West
side of the island, towards the N.W. end, and 2 J miles north-westward of the
entrance to English Harbour ; it is called Whaleman Anchorage or Bay, but
has no title to the latter denomination. The depth of water is said to range
from 8 to about 15 fathoms at half a mile from the beach. Here ships of the
largest class have at times anchored to procure a supply of fresh water, which
is abundant adjacent to the anchorage.

The trade-winds blow steadily from the eastward almost all the year round,
and the island is seldom or never the scene of any boisterous weather. The
months of March and April are generally the worst.

The flag-staff at English Harbour is in lat. 3° 51' 26" N., long. lo9' 22' W. ;
Point Alert (the East extreme of the island, near which there is a gap in the
continuity of the cocoa-nut forest), in lat. 3° 52', long. 159° 16'; the North ex-
tremity of the island in lat. 3° 56^', and nearly on the meridian of the flag-
staff at English Harbour ; the South extremity in lat. 3° 48 J'.

The island is very fertile, and produces bananas, pumpkins, taro, figs, melons,
cabbages, radishef=, tomatoes, and numerous other garden vegetables, intro-
duced by the settlers. Every facility is afforded for procuring flre-wood and
water, as well as any fruit and vegetables in season, and the visits of whalers
North Pacific. 6 o

I k

■ :

|:l

930 ISLANDS BETWEEN TOE EQUATOR AND LAT. 10° N.

for this purpose are not infrequent. FiHh is abundant in the lagoon. The
gigantic land-crab ia found here.

Bound from Honolulu and the northward, make the island on the East side,
and sail round the South side. Ships must be careful in entering the harbour,
ns the coral reefs project farther seaward there than elsewhere ; but probably
a pilot can be procured.

WASHINGTON ISLAND was discovered by Capt. Fanning, the day after
he had discovered the island bearing his name to the S.E. It has also been
called New York Island on the charts, and is probably the Prospect Iiland
announced in 1858. According to Captain Wilkes, it is in lat. 4° 41' 35" N.,
long. 160° 15' 37" W., very nearly the position originally assigned. It was
surveyed by Commander Skerrett, U.S. ship Porttmouth. It is 3} miles long
by li mile broad, elevated about 10ft. above the sea, and is entirely covered
with cocua-nut and other trees, exhibiting a most luxuriant growth. There is
a reef off its eastern point, which extends for half a mile. At the western end
a coral ledge extends 2 miles in a N.W. by W. direction, on which the water
appears much discoloured, but the sea was not seen to break upon it, except
close to the point of the island. The surf is very heavy, and the island affords
no anchorage ; it is inhabited, but landing is dangerous. There is stated to be
a lake of brackish water on this island.

PALMTBA ISLAND was discovered, November 7, 1802, by an American
vessel of the name, during her passage from Juan Fernandez to Manila. Ac-
cording to the description of her commander, Capt. Sawle, it was uninhabited,
flat, and has a Ingoon in its centre, in which the tide regularly ebbs and flows,
running in and out at a rate of 6 or 7 knots. The Palmyra anchored on the
N.W. side of the island, in 20 fathoms, at three-quarters of a mile off shore.
Abundance of turtle were found, but no fresh water.

It was taken possession of by Capt. Zenas Bent, of Honolulu, for the Hawaiian
Government, in 1862, having been previously claimed for the American Quano
Company. Capt. Bent says the landing place is on the West end, and n vessel
can be in perfect safety in a depth of 3 fathoms. Some people were left on it
to cure biche-de-mer.

Palmyra Island was surveyed by Commander J. S. Skerrett, U.S. ship
Portsmouth, 1874. According to this survey, it consists of numerous small
islands, none rising over 6 ft. above the sea, and all covered with cocoa-nut
trees, lying round the edge of an extensive reef, 5f miles in extent East and
West, and 1} mile wide, though Capt. Sawle states that it is 14 miles long,
and about 7 miles wide, and Captain Bent 10 miles long, and 6 miles wide.
Breakers extend a mile from the N.E. and S.E. islets, llie lagoon within the
islands is nearly blocked up by reefs, its entrance at the western end being
only available for boats. On the North, East, and West sides the reefs are

PALMYRA ISLAND -SAM ARANO ISLES.

Q31

marked by breakers, but off the West end a bank of soundings extends 2]
miles to W. by N., the depths on it being uneven, and varying from 4 to 14
futhonu, coral bottcm.

It is dangerous to approach Palmyra Island from the northward or westward ;
the safest approach is from the southward. A vessel may stand safely in by
keeping Strawn Island, on which the huts are erected, bearing about N.E. | N.,
and run in until Bird Island, the S.E. islet, bears E. f N., when she may an-
chor in 7 fathoms, about 1} mile W. by S. ^ S. from Palm Point, the S.W.
islet. The water shoals rapidly from 30 fathoms. It is high water, on full
and change, at ft** 23" ; springs rise 2 ft. The observatiou spot, about 2 cables
N.E. of Palm Point, is in lat. 6" 49 4" N., long. 162" U' 29" W. Capt. Bent
placed the West end in lat. 5° 50 , long. 161" 53', but Cupt. Sawlo places it 30
miles to the westward.

A few people reside on Strawn Island, near the N.W. end of the group, en-
gaged in curing cocoa-nuts. Fish is abundant, but turtle is scarce ; curlew,
snipe, and plover were found. There is generally a sniiill pool of ruin-water on
one of the eastern islets. Rain is almost constantly falling.

Samarang^ Illet were discovered by Captain Scott, in H.M.S. Samarang,
September 15th, 1840, and the description of them exactly agrees with that of
Palmyra Island. The U.S. ship Portsmouth, 1874, spent two days in search-
ing for them, without finding them or any indications of shoal water, so that
Samarang Isles and Pulmyra Island are supposed to be identical, though there
is a difference of 54' of latitude between the recorded positions. According
to Capt. Scott, the West islet is in lat. 4" 55' 9', long. 162" 22' 20" W.

With the strong currents experienced by the Samarang in this neighbour-
hood, a more dangerous spot to those navigating these seas, unacquainted with
its existence, can scarcely esist than this group of coralline islets, with their
extensive reefs. Had it not providentially fallen culm during the night, the
Samarang must inevitably have been lost, us her course would have taken hur
directly on to the reef.*

* DouBTFDL Islands. — Maditon Island, from whulei' report, latitude 6° 30' M., lung.
169* 0' W., is probably Witshington Island.

Four Iikmdt, said to be in lit. 4* 32' N., long. 169* 32' W. Captain Stone, of the brig
Joiephitu, in quest of gunna islan Jg, sought for thia group, but was assured that uu islands
or dangers existed within 2d0 miles of the place.

Perhaps this last assertion may include Davit Iilund, said to have been found in 1858, in
lat. 6* 40' N., long. 170« 10' W.

An itland or shoal, in Int. 6* 36' to 6* 41' N., long. 166* 0' to 166* 18' W., has boon four
times announced by whalers. Captain Stone, ia the Josephine, ran near the first position at
mid-d.iy; g;ood obaenrations ; and although many birds were soon, among thumland birds,
yet no land was seen. To these may be adde 1 an island in 8° 40' N. and 168' 0' W., from
whaler report, which is probably Barber Island, if that exists. Commodore Sketrott, U.S.
ship rorUmouth, searched unsuccessrully lor all these iiliindg.

933 ISLANDS BETWEEN THE EQUATOR AND LAT. 10' N.

5' ■■.:

Kingman or Alio» Thomdikt Rttf. — Capt. Kingman, of the American (hip
Shooting Star, saw this shoal lying to the northward of Palmyra Island. It
is composed of coral and sand, and when the breakers on the N.E. part bear
KoMt, with a moderate breeae, a few small spots of coral con be seen above
water. The northern port runs K.S.K. and W.N.W., 13 miles. Shoal water
extends several miles to the southward. The position ascertained was 6° 27' N.,
long. 162° 12' W. llio ship Aliet Thorndike also saw it in 1859, placing it
in lat. 6° 24' N., long. 162^ 22'. Another authority places it in lat. 6" 3U' N.,
long. 162° 30'. The probable position is therefore 6" 27f N.. 162° 21' W. In
June, 1874, the British steam-ship Tartar struck on it.* Caldtw Reef, re-
ported to lie to the eastward, in lat. 6° 24', long. 161° 44', is also probably
identical with Kingman Reef.

In this locality reefs have been frequently reported, varying but little in
position in latitude but considerably in longitude, and it is probable thnt
different positions have been given to the same reef, and that the error tvo
been caused by incorrect reckoning and strong currents. Until this lor y
has been more thoroughly examined, great precaution should be taken iu is
navigation.

Maria or Crane Shoal was announced in 1863 by Captain Crane, of the
schooner Maria. She ran over a reef, the rocks of which were seen with about
4 fathoms over them; lat. 5° S3' N., long. 164° 0' W. They were searched for
in T«in by the U.S. ahip Portamouth.

BAKER I8LAKD is a low coral island of similar character to those around
it, but it had a large deposit of gunno on it, which has been worked by the
American Guano Company, and, therefore, it is better known.

It was seen by Capt. H. Foster, of the barque Jamaica, and has been many
times vaguely reported, as Phabe Island (see hereafter), or New Nantucket

Barber ItUnd is also placed ia lat. 6' 0' N., long. 177° 64' W., and in lat. 8> 4' X., long.
170' W.

Another Utand, which may be Barbary IiUnd, is said, from whaler report, to bo in lat.
8» N., long. 177" 20' W., or in lat 9' N., long. US' W.

Barbary Island, from a report in the New York Tribune, March, 1868, exists in lat.
3' 64' N., long. 173° 0' W., and it has also been placed 90 miles West of this position.
(Thin seems to be a peculiarly vague designvtion.)

Feur Rotki, from whaler report, in lat. 7* 61' N., long. 176<> 6' W. Another roek, in lat
7° 48' N., long. 173° 12' W. Probably do not exist.

Diana Shoal, reported by Captain Henry English, in lat 8* 40' N., long. 167* 20' W.,
hod only 6 ft. water over it. The Herald parsed over the site without seeing anything.

■ From whnlor reports in the China Mail, a $)uml lies in lat. 6* 36' N. and 160° C W. ;
another report 8!»ys lat 0° 30' N., long. 163° 30' W. The latter was searched for unsuo-
cussluUy by ibo U.S. ship PorUmouth, Those probably refor to the Kingman Reuf.

BAKER ISLAND.

998

Inland. Prvpn poiiitioni hare b«en auigned, varying tlightly from thkt given
by Capt. J. D. Hague, lat. 0^ 13' N., long. 176" 22' W. ; from obMnrationt
made on the U.S. ship Narrftgnnitti, rommander Mciidc, IH72, the centre of
the island was assumed to be in Int. 0" 13' 30 N., long. 17)1'' 2U 30' W.

The island is about 20 ft. high, and shows some signs of elevation ; the sur«
face is nearly level, and almost entirely devoid of vegetation, eicept patches
of grass here and there. Tlio outline is on irregular quadrilateral figure about
1 mile long. East and West, and three-quarters of a mile wide, North and
South ; it is surrounded by a reef 200 to 400 ft. wide, awash at high tide.
Fresh water is obtained by distilling sea-wuter.

Above the crown of the beach there is a sandy ridge which encircles the
guano deposit. This marginal ridge is about 100 ft. wide on the lee side of
the island, and is thore composed of fine sand and small fragments of coruls
and shells mixed with considerable guano. On the eastern or windward side
it is much wider, and formed of coarser fragments of ourals and shells which,
in their arrangement, present the appearance of successive beach formations.
Encircled by this ridge lies the guano deposit, which occupied the centre and
the greater nart of the island. None of the gross t'lat grows abundantly on
the margii ig found on the guano. In 1872 the guano was nearly worked out.

On the West side is a small open bay, in which is a boat entrance ; imme-
diately o] losite to which are the Company's buildings, and close to it (to the
northward) is the wharf. Outside of the reef the downward trend of tltc island
under water is so abrupt that an anchor will not grapple, but fulls awiiy
towards the bottom of the deep ocean. For this reason it was found necessary
to anchor large mooring-buoys outside the reef.

Mr. Charles Reeves, of the guano ship Loch-na-gar, gives the following re-
marks. — {Mercantile Marine Magazine, January, 1869.)

The wooden houses upon the island can be seen 14 miles from the mast-
head ; but if a ship should be at the buoy there, she can be seen long before
the island. On approaching, care should be taken not to be set to leeward
by the current, which constantly sets W.S.W., 2 knots an hour. If a ship
once gets to leeward, she may be weeks before she is able to beat up to the
island again.

As soon as the island is visible, the jack should be hoisted at the fore-royal
mast-head, and as a matter of precaution the royal taken it, to make certain of
the jack being seen. As soon as she is made out as bound to the island, tlie
American ensign will be hoisted from the signal-staff, if it is favourable for
coming to the buoy. But should the ensign not be hoisted by the time the
ship is close to the island, it is a sign that there is too much danger to come
to the buoy. Therefore be prepared to haul to the wind when they hoist
up " Stand to Sea," and carry all possible sail to hold your own against the
current.

But when the ensign is hoisted, get up your best lines to run to the buoy ;

11: i i!'

934 ISLANDS IJETWEEN THE EQUATOR AND LAT. 10° N.

they sometimes have lines at the island, but just as frequently as not they have
been carried away, and they have to depend upon yours. Steer for whichever
end of the island will give you the weather gnge, for you will have to lu9
^ound the lee side of the isluud to the buoy. The mooring-master comes on
board about 2 miles from the island and takes charge.

The easterly winds are frequently interrupted by squalls from the westward,
m«re especially from November to March.

As soon as dark clouds are observed gathering up to the westward, do not
hesitate a moment, but slip at once before the easterly wind fails. If you are
tempted to hang on, and the easterly wind fails, the ship swings round, and no
power can save her from destruction. The wreck-strewn shore bears melan-
choly evidence of this.

It frequently happens, during the winter months, that heavy surfs set in all
round the island. It would then be advisable for the ship to go to sea if there
is any wind to slip, for there is no communication with the shore except by
signal, and there is great risk of the ship being lost.

The winds during summer are from Enst to S.E., and blow steadily, but
from November to April they are generally from East to N.E., and are fre-
quently interrupted by westerly winds and bad weather. The Company has
discontinued loading vessels between the months of November and April.—
Commander Meade, U.S. sftip Narragannett, 1872.

HOWLAND or Holland Island was discovered by Capt. O. E. Netohcr,
in the Isabella, of Fairbaven, U.S., September 9th, 1842. It was afterwards
several times reported by whalers in 1851 and 1858, and in the latter year by
Oapt. Paty, of the schooner Liholiho. On January 16th, 1859, Capt. Eldridge,
of the American barque Amazon, announced it as a new discovery. Since that
period it bos been occupied by the American Guano Company. It will be
needless to quote the numerous positions assigned to it ; Commander Meade
places its centre in about lat. 0" 49' N., long. 176° 40' W.*

The following description is principally by Capt. J. D. Hague, who came
here in 1860, in search of guano. The island is about 2 miles long, N.N.W.
and S.S.E., by half a mile wide, containing, above the crown of the beach, an
area of some 400 acras. The highest point is about 20 ft. above the reef, and
10 or 12 ft. above the level of the high tide. Slightly brackish water is found
by digging a few feet. A mooring-buoy was placed off the West side of the
island, about 1^^ cable from the beach.

The general features of the island resemble those of Baker or Enderbury
Islands. Its surface, at least on the western side, is somewhat depressed, and

• Faguin Iflandi, reported by a whaler as in laf. ()• 40 X.,loiig. I71» 59' W., and another
island by the same authority, 35 miles to the southwiird, miiBt rufur tu lluwlund and Baker
l8lund«. The U.S. ship Narroj/anHtt passed over this position.

I t

'^^'"y"

THE GILBERT AR( HIPELAOO.

9.35

ills from thjB westward.

much of it is covered by a growth of purslain, grnss, and other vegetation, like
that on Baker Island, but considerably more abundant. Near the centre are
one or two thickets of leafless trees or brushwood, standing 8 or 10 ft. high,
and occupying an area of several acres ; the lower parta, near the roots, show
signs of life after every rain. The windward side of the island is formed by
a succession of ridges, composed of cc: al d6bri8 with some sand and shells,
running parallel to the eastern beach, each one of which may, at earlier stages
of the island's growth, have successively forire'I the weather shore. Occa-
sionally among those ridges a sandy bed is met with in which some little guano
is mixed. On the lee side there is also a sandy margin of confxderable width.
Bits of pumice and pieces of drift-wood ore sea' t. red all over the island's
surface.

The main deposit of guano occupied the middle part of the island, and
stretched, with some interruptions of intervening sand, nearly from the North
to the South end. Its surface was even, and in many places covered by a thick
growth of purslain. The deposit varied in depth from 6 inches to 4 feet.*

It is high water, on full and change, about T** 1 1" ; the rise is 8 ft. The
tides are regular, and of the semi-diurnal type.

THE GILBERT ARCHIPELAGO.

Of this group the island first discovered was the easternmost, Byron Island,
so named from the commander, who saw it June 3rd, 1765. The next were
the northern groups, discovered by the ships Scarborouffh and Charlotte, com-
manded by Captains Marshall and Gilbert. There is a loose account of this
discovery given in Governor Phillip's voyage, in 1788. The next authority in
order is a chart contained iu Dalrymple's collection, drawn by Roger Simpson

* DovBTFUL Islands. —The following annonncomenta of discovcnes hereabout, either
require confivmation oi do nc'. exist : —

New Market Itland, nccording to Mr. Consnl Pritchnrd, of Apia, lies in Int. 0" 22" N.,
lo'hg. 174° 40' W. This must refer to Buker Island. A re*/, by the same authority, lies
in l»t. 0° 21' N., long. 179° 20' W. A doubtful reef is placml 40 miles to the North of it
on the charts. These must aVen refer to Baker and Howland I«lan<i8.

Starbuek Iiland, in Int. 0» , long. 178° 30', is perhaps intended for 173° 30' W., and
refers to Honderville Island.

Thoebe Itland, lat. 0° 20' N., long. 176° 40' W., cannot be found. Commander Sinclair, of
the U.S. ship Vandalia, could not find it ; and Mr. Fof^er, mate of the Janmiea, who pnesed
iii reported position above twenty times between 1842 and 1844, never saw it. It is,
therefore, probable that it is a transposition of Baker Island from Wnst into East longitude.
It was also searched for unsucceasfnlly uy the Narragansett, in 0° U' U' N., 177° 18' W.

MiteMl Itland, from whaler report, in lat. 9* 18' N., long. 176° 30' E., i: believed not to
exist.

An iiUind, in 10° 0' N., long. 180° 0, and reefi in the same lalitud-i, hut in 179° 40' W.,
179° 30' E., and 179° 15' E., from whaler report, if Ihoy exint, probably refer to tlie same.

98«

THE GILBERT ARCHIPELAGO.

11 1! i^

I ii

I I

III'

and George Bass, officers of the Nautilus, under Capt. Bishop. In the Table
of Positions, by John Purdy, is an account of some of the islands seen by the
brig Elizabeth, about 1809. In 1824 Capt. Dupcrrey visited and explored
many of them ; but by far the most complete account of them is given in the
account of the United States' Exploring Expedition. The ship Peacock, and
her tender Flying Fish, surveyed the greater part of them. Additional in-
formation has been obtained from the reports of Lieut. Fcnn, H.M.S. Barrosa,
1872; Lieut. Tanner, U.8. ship Narragansett, 1872; Commander Dupuis and
Lieut. Browne, H.M.S. Rosario, 1874 ; Capt. Maxwell and Lieut. Stocker,
H.M.S. Emerald, 1881 ; Capt. Bridge and Lieut. Ommanney, H.M.S. Espiigle,
1883 ; and from other sources, British and foreign.

The name Gilbert Archipelago was given to the group by Admiral Krusen-
stem, after the commander of the Charlotte, one of the first explorers ; the
other commander's name being given to the group to the northward. Krusen-
stern separates them into three groups, the Kingsmill Islands, consisting of
Bishop or Drummond Island and their subordinates; the Simpson Group,
Woodle, Henderville, and Hopper, from the L°forc-mentioned officers of the
Nautilus ; and the Scarborough Range, Marshall, Knoy. Matthew Islands, &c.,
from Capt. Gibbon's vessel. All these names seem to be very appropriate, uiid
have been for many years acknowledged ; we therefore follow them. On the
other hand, in the American work they are all given under the collective title
of the Kingsmill Islands ; the name being only that of a small portion. From
the account of the expedition we derive much of the following.

According, to the information collected by Ccpt. Hudson and Mr. Hale, and
furnished to Commodore Wilkes, the group con Aata of fifteen (or more properly
sixteen) islands, ten of which were visited, the rest assumed from native in-
formation. The iiighcst land of the group is not more than 20 ft. above the
sea, and they are all of coral formation, having a general resemblance to the
usual form of those islands. But it was fo' nd that, unlike those, many of the
islands of this group afforded anchorage on their lee side on sand-banks ; and
in some of them the lee or western reef is wanting ; this would form a dis-
tinctive character, and affords additional weight to the fact that the islands are
fast wearing awny by the action of the sea on them during westerly gales.*
The compact coral shelf is found at the depth of 12 ft. beneath the surface.
Another evidence of their decrease is, that in all cases where the island is at
nil exposed, it has become, as would be in such a case, a string of detached
islets.

Their soil, which is but a few inches in depth, is of coral sand and vegetable
mould, below which coral sand is to be found, and to this depth the wells and

* According to the evidonco of a trader residingf oh Peru iRlnnd. the whole of thnt
inland IB rising bodily, the elevation being estimated at 2 ft. during Hiu four yonrs of his
residunce there. — Proceedings of the lioyal OeographUal Society, No^'einbur. 1884, p. 666.

THE GILBEKT ARCHIPELAGO.

987

In the Table
ds seen by the

and explored
is given in the

Peacock, and
Additional in-
.M.S. Barrosa,
ler Dupuis and
iieut. Stocker,
M.S. Espiigle,

mirai Krusen-
explorers; the
ward. £rusen-
1 consisting of
mpson Group,
officers of the
V Islands, &c.,
•propriate, and
hem. On the
collective title

lortion. From

Mr. Hale, and
more properly
om native in-
I ft. above the
iblance to the
, many of the
d-banks; and
d form a dis-
thc islands are
isterly gales.*
h the surface,
le island is at
; of detached

and vegetable
the wells and

wholo of I hut
Jr years of hia
881, p. 665.

taro patches extend. The rain-water percolates thus far, and meets the coral
rock. Pieces of pumice are found, supposed to have been drifted on to it. The
cultivation is chiefly cocoa-nut and pandanus, the chief articles of food. A
species of taro (Arum cordifoliumj is also grown with great care. On Makin
or Pitt Island it is said that there is a trench, 10 ft. wide and not less than 7
miles long, dug around the lagoon, for the cultivation of this taro.

The Eev. L. H. Gulick, M.D., has given an excellent account of this and
the neighbouring groups of Micronesia, which embraces the four archipelagoes
of the Gilbert, Mai-shall, Caroline, and Ladrone Islands, and of theii* people.
We derive many of the ensuing remarl' j from his lectures.

Since the visit of the United States' Exploring Expedition these islands have
grown into some importance to the civilized world &om their production of
cocoa-nut oil. Very many sailors have at different times resided on shore —
not an island of the group but has been thus thoroughly explored — and there
are several who seem to have made their homo there.

In November, 1857, a mission station was taken on Apaiang, or Charlotte
Island, by the Rev. H. Bingham, Jr., and a Hawaiian associate. In September,
1860, a second station wos taken by two Ilawaiians on the neighbouring island
of Tarawa. Since that time native teachers have visited the other islands.
The language has been reduced to writing, and a number of children are fluent
readers.

Nothing is more remarkable at the Gilbert Islands, to one who has visited
other parts of Micronesia, than the great number of the people. Elsewhere
the sparseness of the population is painful ; but here the overflowing swarms
are continually surprising one. Peru, one of the smallest of the atolls, has a
population of from 1,500 to 2,000, and Aranuka has 1,000, while Taputeouea
has from 7,000 to 8,000. In almost every other part of Micronesia the houses
are scattered, and if there are what may be termed villages, they are but small
collections of houses, and in no very close proximity to each other ; while here
the habit is to congregate in towns, where the houses are in nearly as close
relation to each other as possible. These villages are — as is almost invariably
the case on the low, anniihir islands — on the inner or lagoon shore, and as one
lays at anchor within, the collections of low white-roofed houses, stretching
along under the cocoa-nutjgrovcs, may be seen every few miles, the canoe
sheds first, in a row along the beach, and then the dwellings, which are
nothing more than roofi^, standing promiscuously just behind, usually with a
large council-house in the midst.

Capt. Randall, who resided here as a trader, estimated the population of the
group at from 60,000 to 54,000, so that it contained more than half of the
population of Micronesia, there being 20,000 to 25,000 on the Ladrone and
Caroline Islands, and perhnjjs 1 0,000 on the Marshall Islands. As the area of
the dry land is not more than 150 square miles, there will be from 300 to 350
North Pacific. G i>

j|;,;;i,ij|

■ 1 '

! f

t
i

1 ^I'^ii

(; ■"•

938

THE GILBERT ARCHIPELAGO.

persons per square mile, a density scarcely equalled in the world. Many
cruelties have been perpetrated ou these people by vessels engaged in " kid-
napping" labourers for sugar-plantations, &c.,and there is no doubt that many
of the reported outrages on merchant vessels have arisen from this cause.

In phyioal appearance this people are darker and coarser as a whole than
the more western inhabitants of Micronesia. They are also a larger race, some
of the chiefs being very corpulent, equalling in size the ancient chiefs of
Hawaii. This is also the more remarkable from thcsu islands being the most
barren of the atolls of Micronesia. The cocoa-nut and the pandanus, and a few
laboriously-cultivated taro, are the only vegetable productions, while the greater
number of the low islands of the Marshall and Caroline Archipelagoes produce
taro, bread-fruit, and jack-fruit in considerable abundance.

The usual height is about 5 feet 8 or 9 inches, but we saw many who were
considerably below this standard. There are none of those burly persons
among them which are so common in the Sandwich and Society Islands, and
we did not see one instance of obesity. — Mr. Hale.

The food of these people, besides the plants mentioned, consists of all kinds
of iiuh, from the whale to the sea-slug. Great numbers of fish are taken in
weirs ou th'j coral flats. Turtle are taken in the season on the beaches ; and
shell-fish, with tlie sea-slug or biche-de-mar, are obtained by diving. Whales
are said to have been formerly much more numerous than now. They then
sometimes got aground and were token, ^ow a carcase occasionally diifts on
shore.

There is not much to induce general trading vessels to come here; they pos-
sess but little in the way of refreshment, and there is neither wood nor water
in any quantity. They are only visited by small schooners in search of emi-
grants, and for cocoa-nut oil. They possess many good harbours, a rare advan-
tage in low coral islands.

Too much relianc:: should not be placed on the information received from
trading vessels as ".o anchorages in this group, as they frequently anchor close
to the reefs, and trust to the wind remaining in the same direction to keep them
off it.— H.M.S. EspUyle.

The Climate of these islands is equable, and though of high temperature it
is found to be less oppressive than in most tropical countries. For the most
part constant breezes prevail, and frecjuent rain falls, which moderates the
great heat, and at the same time confers fertility on the soil. From October
to April, the time of the Peacock^ s visit, is the winter, and is especially distin-
guished by the frequency of rains. Variable winds from the northward and
westward prevail at this season, and they have violent gales from the S.W. ;
these, according to Kirby (who was taken off the islands), are typhoon-like.
The natives plant stakes to prop up their houses, and tie them down, to prevent
them from being blown away. These storms last three or four days, veering
gradually round to the North. The Icewnrd sides of the islands receive most

ARITUAI.

930

damagr, nnd both land and trees are swept away. Kirby stated that, during
his residence, the lee side of Kuria had worn away. In these gales the trunks
of large trees are thrown on the West side of the island, together with large
lumps of resin, similar to that found on the soil at New Zealand, which the
natives use to scent their oils with. These trees, sometimes 2 ft. in diameter,
were thought to be of the pine species. Many stones arc found in their roots,
from 8 to 10 inches in diameter. These are a fine basalt, and the natives use
them for various purposes.

From May till September the weather is fine, with clear skies, and only
occasional showers ; and during this time the trade wind blows constantly from
the eastward, with intervals of calm. This is the season in which the natives
make their voyages ; they never venture abroad in the winter months, even
from island to island, being well aware of the danger of so doing.

Currents. — The Gilbert Archipelago lies near the northern limit of the South
Equatorial Current, which generally runs to the westward. Off Tamana it has
been experienced running 2 knots an hour to W.S>W. H.M.S. EspiegU found
that the current, which was westerly in the southern part of the group, began
to set to the northward and eastward North of Apamama, running to the east-
ward off the North point of Maraki at the rate of thre«-quarters of a mile an
hour.

Tides. — It is high water throughout the group, on full and change, at i** ;
springs rise about 6 ft.

Earthquakes are occasionally experienced in these islands. Kirby stated
that during the three years he was on Kuria, or Woodle Island, he had felt
ten or twelve, sufficiently severe to shake down a house. The natives exhibit
no fear on account of them. The direction of the oscillations seems to be from
the S.W.

The following account begins with the southernmost of the archipelago,
and proceeds northward. As the relative positions of the islands have not been
accurately determined, the pusitii/us here given must only be considered as
approximate.

ABXIBAI, Arore, or Hurd Island, is the southernmost of the group. It
was discovered in the Elizabeth, prior to 1810, and was then named Hope
Island. " But," says Mr. Purdy, " there being another Hope Island at about
14° distan t< the northward of the Equator, I have substituted Hurd Island
on the chart, from respect to Captain Hurd, of the Navy, hydrognipher to the
Admiralty."

The following account is taken principally from that cf M. Dutaillis. It is
low and well wooded, and perhaps may be seen at 10 miles off. Its length is
6 or 7 miles, and its breadth 1 or 1 i mile, but landing can only be effected on
the West side. Breakers extend 3 cables from the South point.

Hie sea breaks heavily on the shore to the East. At the North point of the
island there is a bank of sand, with some rocks interspersed, ou which there iit

I' i

THE GILBER" ARCHIPELAGO.

;il::;:-il5r

:;i !

but 3} fathoms. It is all the more dangerous because the sea docs not always
break on it. Its extent is about 4 miles, and its direction is determined by the
angles comprised between N.N.E. and E.N.E., of which the North point is the
summit. In a sketch by Capt. Peters, 1875, this bank is shown as extending
2 miles N.N.W. from the North point.

Off its West side whalers and small vessels have anchored off the reef in 25
fathoms, but so close that a shift of wind to the southward or westward renders
the position most dangerous.

The island has 2,000 to 2,500 inhabitants. They are completely naked.
Their canoes, foi-mcd from a vast number of pieces, are clinker built, and are
most graceful in form. Fish, poultry, cocoa-nuts. Sec, are easily procured in
exchange for tobacco. A missionary was stationed here in 1870.

According to M. Dutaillis, the South point is in lat. 2^ 40' 54" S., long.
177° 1' 13" E.; North point, lat. 2° 37' 24", long. 176° 66' 67". These results
are nearly identical with those assumed by Mr. Furdy, but later observations
place them 7' farther to tlie eastward.

NUKTTNAIJ, or Byron Island, was discovered by Commodore Byron, July
2, 1765. He describes it as a low, flat island, of a most delightful appearance,
and full of wood, among which the cocoa-nut was very conspicuous. He saw,
however, to his great regret, much foul ground about it, upon which the sea
broke with a dreadful surf. He sailed along the S.W. side.

It is of low coral formation, surrounded by a reef, and is 8 miles in length,
N.W. by N. and S.E. by S., and a quarter to IJ mil" in width. It is thickly
covered with cocoa-nut and pandanus trees, which can be seen 12 miles from
the deck. The island appears as three islands from a distance, in consequence
of the centre being low and sandy with a large clump of trees on it. There is
anchorage along the S.W. side, and in 14 fathoms, sand and coral, close under
the S.E. point, the bank being steep ; this anchorage is impracticable except
with a northerly or easterly wind. It is stated that there is no anchorage fit
for a large vessel. Landing is difficult except at high water. In 1872 the
population was about 5,000.

The S.E, point of Nukunau is placed by Commander Meade, U.S. ship
Narragansett, in lat. 1° 23' 42" S., long. 170'^ 34' 51" E.; later observations
place it 4' more to the eastward.

PERU, or Francis Island, is also called Peroat, Maria, and Eliza Island, on
former charts. It was discovered by Captain Clerk, of the ship John Palmer,
in 1827. It is 11 miles in length, N.W. by N. and S.E. by S., from one half
to li mile in width, 6 to 8 ft. in height, and thickly covered with cocoa-nut
and pandanus trees ; it is surrounded by the usual reef, and has an extensive
lagoon on the S.W. side, which can only be entered by boats at high water.
About the centre of the island the reef extends 2 J or 3 miles westward from
the land ; it also extends 2 miles off the N.W. point, and about half a mile ofl
the S.E. point. In 1872 the population was about 2,000. This island, ap

li^;

ONOATOA— TAMANA— TAPUTEOUEA.

ca docs not always

determined by the

North point is the

hown as extcndiuir

i off the reef in 25
r westward renders

completely naked,
iker built, and are
easily procured in
1870.

40' 54" 8., long.
i7". These results
later observations

odore Byron, July
ghtful appearance,
picuoua. He saw,
on which the sea

8 miles in length,
Ith. It is thickly
Jen 12 miles from
ce, in consequence
es on it. There is

coral, close under
practicable except

no anchorage fit
tor. In 1872 the

Meade, U.S. ship
later observations

i Eliza Island, on
hip John Palmer,
• S., from one half
d with cocoa-nut
has an extensive
ts at high water.
« westward from
)ut half a mile ofl
This island, ar

well as Byron Island, has a Samoan teacher belonging to the London Mission'
ary Society.

There is anchorage on the West side of this island, to the northward of the
most western point of the reef, in from 5 to 7 fathoms, about 1^ cable from the
reef, with the N.W. point of the island bearing N.W. by N. ^ N., and the
S.W. point E. by S. ^ S. The bank is very steep, and coming from the south-
ward care must be taken to avoid a shoal running out from the West point of
the reef. The South point of Peru is in lat. 1° 27' 30" S., long. 175° 59' E.

ONOATOA, Onnta, or Clerk Island, is described by the Rev. Mr. Bingham
as some 12 miles in length, having a lagoon bordered by a reef on the western
side, with a good boat channel near the centre. He says the Morning Star
anchored on the extreme western part of the reef, some 6 miles from the main
land, but they afterwards learned that there was good anchorage in a bay on
the N.W. side much nearer the land. This agrees with the description given
by Capt. Peters, in 1875. The natives are a tall fine-looking race ; the officers
of H.M.S. Barrosa found them very friendly, but they are often fighting
among themselves. They are stated to number about 3,000. A native teachei
was left here in 1870.

H.M.S. Emerald anchored in 16 fathoms, about 2 cables from the reef on
the N.W. side of the island, with Teumah Islet bearing N. by E. ^ E., distant
one-third of a mile, but found hardly room enough to swing. Boats can enter
the shallow lagoon. Teumah, at the N.W. extremity of Onoatoa, is in lat.
1<'53' S., long. 175° 30' E.

TAMANA, or Rotcher Island, is about 3 miles long and three-quarters of a
mile broad, having a fringing reef extending about half a mile from the North
and South extremes, and from the coast on the eastern side ; on the S.W. or
lee side there is deep wr.ter close to the shore, and there are no off-lying dan-
gers. The western shore forms a bight about half a mile deep, but there is no
anchorage. According to observations made on H.M.S. Emerald, the ap-
proximate position of its South extreme is lat. 2° 32' S., long. 175° 55' E.

The Kev. S. J. Whitmee states that the island is well supplied with cocoa-
nut palms and pandanus. Good water is procured in abundance by sinking
wells near the centre. There were three European traders here, and a teacher
was l&nded. — {Mercantile Marine Magazine, January, 1872, pp. 14 — 18.)

TAFXTTEOUEA, or Bishop or Drummond Island. — This extensive island,
or group of islets, had the second of the foregoing names applied to it by A dm.
Krusenstern, from the commander of the vessel, the Nautilus, who is presumed
to have discovered it. In the chart drawn up from that voyage, the only
island named is Drummond Island ; it is there shown as 26 miles long, the
whole length lined with rocks and reefs, outside of which the Nautilus anchored
in 18 fathoms. At 5 miles to the West of this reef is another, shown separately
on the chart under the name of the Nautilus Shoal, near which the vessel

wiw^"<w m i j ' i.m i jm i

942

THE OILBEIIT ARCHIPELAGO.

) '4

i ID

passed. Both of these were examined by Capt. Duperrey, in 1824. But the
fullest account is that given in Ctipt. Wilkes's Narrative.

It was made by the U.S. Exploring ships Peacock and Flying Fith, April 3,
1841, and they here encountered the regular N.E. ti'udes. It is of coral forma-
tion, 30 miles long, N.W. by W. and S.E. by E., and varies in width from
half to three-quarters of a mile. This, howc\'er, only includes the high por-
tions, or that which is a few feet above the ocean level. It is thinly covered
with cocoa-nut and pandanus trees, and not a patch of gram was to-be seen, nor
any sort of shrubbery or undergrowth. To leeward, or on its West side, the
reefs and sand-banks extend some distance off, gradually increasing from the
N.W. point to the S.E., where they ore as much as 6^ miles in width. This
reef is interrupted in many places, and there is good anchorage off the town of
Utiroa, towards the N.E. end, nsar a small sand-bank, which is usually bare ;
this is now known as Peacock Anchorage. The whole shore of the island, as
the Peacock approached it, appeared covered with houses, presenting to the
view one continuous village. At intervals of a mile there were buildings of
huge proportions, far exceeding in size any they had before met with.

The natives of this island ore totally different to ihjse on the islands to the
South. They are middle-sized, slender, and well proportioned ; their col'^ur a
shade or two darker than that of the Tahitians, and they exhibited a greater
variety of face and features, with black glossy hair, finer than in other races.
Their features are small, but high and. well marked, their cheek-bones project-
ing, and they are the only natives in the Pacific that have the defect of decayed
teeth. Altogether they were thought to resemble the Malays. The majority
of them go entirely naked, except a conical covering for the head of plaited
and bleached pandanus leaf. They exhibited many bodily traces of their war-
like dispositions in their numerous scars and wounds. In order to guard against
the destructive effect of their formidable shark's-teeth swords and spears, they
have invented an effective kind of armour, a sort of cuii-ass of plaited cocoa-
nut fibres, as solid and compact as a board, and half an inch thick. This rises,
like a high-backed chair, 3 or 4 inches above the head. They also draw on
more flexible coverings for the legs and arms. Their head dress is still moyro
singular, the skin of a porcupine fish cut open at the mouth to fit the head.
They were extravagantly fond of tobacco. Their canoes were different to the
other islanders, averaging 12 or 15 ft. long, 2 to 3 ft. deep, and from 15 inches
to 2 feet wide ; they are well modelled, built in frames, and have much sheer ;
they ore formed of cocoa-nut tree boards, sewn neatly together, and use an out-
rigger, though much smaller than usual ; one of the sides is nearly flat, and in
this respect they resemble the Ladrone proa figured in Anson's voyages.

In Capt. Wilkes's narrative they were much incommoded by the insolence
and rudeness of the people, and one of the men having been decoyed away or
murdered, the ship's party burnt the town of Utiroa.

Capt. Bondall estimates the population ut from 7,000 to 8,000, which will

TArUTEOUEA-NANOUTI.

943

giro this small strip of land as great, if not a greater, number of inhabitants to
the square mile than any portion of the globe that relies upon its own resources
for subsistence.

No land-birds were seen but curlews, golden plovers, tumstones, noddies, and
white terns ; many whales' bones were strewed over the beach. This was the
first place where they had observed the shells of the Tridachna gigat, the
gigantic cookie ; they were of enormous size ; the natives used them for troughs
for many purposes around their houses.

There is neither wood nor water to be obtained at this island, and no induce-
ment to visit it, except to trade for cocoa-nuts.

Good whaling ground exists in the vicinity, and the American whalemen are
in the habit of cruising in this neighbourhood. Those who visit these people
ought to keep a constant guard against treachery, for their numbers are large,
and they are prone to mischief. AH intercourse with them should therefore be
conducted with great caution, especially in ships weakly manned.

Peacock Anchorage is in a bay formed by the reef, at about 6 miles south-
ward of the North end of the island, having depths of 5 to 30 fathoms, broken
coral bottom, smooth and safe, except with winds from the southward and
westward. A long flat, scarcely covered at low water, and with heavy rollers
over it at high water, makes communication with the shore difficult. It is
high water, on full and change, at 6** 15"* ; the flood stream sets to the south-
war'l.

Vessels can anchor in 7 fathoms, with the sand-bank near the extremity of
the southern reef, only covered at high water springs, bearing S.E. by E. \ E.,
distant about H mile, and Utiroa village about E. by N. ^ N. Vessels are
iccommended to anchor in not less than 17 fathoms; this enables a ship to
stand clear of the North reef to sea, in case the wind should shift to the west-
ward. In approaching from the southward, vessels should not stand in until
the North point of the islands is recognised ; the reef should not be approached
within 3 miles, on account of outlying coral heads, and a good look-out from
aloft is indispensable. As there are several villages opposite the anchorage,
the village of Utiroa cannot be considered a good mark for it. In coming from
the northward, after rounding the North point, about a mile distant from the
reef, steer to the southward until the first gap between the islands bears about
E. by S. i S., then steer for it, keeping a good look-out from aloft to clear the
point of the northern reef.

Great care must be taken in coming to an anchor here, as the water shoals
very quickly.

The reef off the S.E. point of Drummond Island is stated to extend 12 miles
to the southward, and is very dangerous, several vessels having been lost on it.
The S.E. point of the island is in lat. 1° 27' 30" S., long. 174° 59' 30' E. ; the
North point is in lat. T 8'. Ion-;. 174° 37' 30".

NANOUTI, Nonouti, ov SyilcnhiDn Island, is one of the early discoveries in

944

THE GILBERT AIICIIIPELAGO.

i*t !

the group. In the chart drawn up by Roger Simpson and George Bass, of the
ship Nautilus, given in Dalrymple's Collection, it was composed of Dog liland
and five smaller islands, separated by a considerable reef. On the original
chart above mentioned, the S.W. of these islets is called Two-tree Island, and
the West point of Dog Island is called Cape Morai. It was examined by Capt.
Dupcrrey in his voyage of discovery in 1 824. In the Table of Positions by
Mr. Furdy there is an account of the discovery by the brig Elizabeth of Blaney
Island, ** long, low, and abundantly supplied with cocoa-nut trees." All these
observations give place to those of the U.S. Exploring Expedition, in which,
however, the error is committed of stating it to be the same as the Bishop's
Island "of the charts."

It is of coral formation, and a mere ledge of land like Drummond Island,
with a lagoon, reef, and a bank on its lee or S.W. sido. By Captain Hudson's
survey it is 19 miles long, trending N.W. and 8.E., and its width, including
lagoon and reef, 8^ miles. On its S.W. and N.W. portions there is a coral
bank, from 1 to H i°ile beyond the reef, on which there is 10 fathoms water.
At the distance of 4 miles from the N.W. end of the island they found soimd-
ings in 265 fathoms.

The bland is partially covered with cocoa-nut, pandanus, and other trees ;
and the islets of which it is formed are nearly continuous, connected by the
usual coral reef. They had no communication with the natives, but a daily
intercourse is kept up between them and the Drummond islanders. It was
thought there was no difference in their characters. The distance between
them is 27 miles. The population is estimated at 6,000, the island being over-
populated.* Trading-vessels anchor along the S.W. side of the reef. There
is reported to be anchorage in 7 to 10 fathoms, about 4 miles south-westward
of the N.W. extremity of the island, off a small sand islet, also in 10 fathoms,
2 miles W.N.W. of the S.E. point. H.M.S. Emerald found good anchorage
north-westward of the S.E. extreme in 17 fathoms, over coral, sand, and shells,
at about 1 cable from the reef. A passage is said to exist into the lagoon
through the reefs immediately eastward of the fishing huts marked on the
Admiralty chart. In 1876 a white man was living on the southern islet. The
South extremity is in lat. 0' 45' 30" S., long. 174^^ 22' 30" E. ; the North island
is in lat. 0° 30', long. 174' 12'.

ABANTTEA, Nanouki, or Henderville Island, was discovered by Captains
Marshall and Gilbert, and was also examined by Captain DupeiTcy, in 1824.

* From the North point of this isUnd there was a small isl'ind in sight, which was at
first supposed to be Duperrey's Ilu du Nord ; but if it be, inscead of being located to the
northward, as he baa placed it, it bears noArly South of the Nortb extreme of Nanouti.
They found, on proceeding towards it., that it was a hummock connected by a reef with
Nanouti ; but no Sable Island could bo s^en. The tender passed round the opposite sid*
of Nanouti, and did not see any island ; and the officers of both vessels were fully cou>
vinced that no Sable Island exists.

ARANUKA— KUllIA— APAMAMA.

046

It was surveyed by the U.S. Exploring Expedition. It is 6^ miles long,
East and West, and 5} miles wide at the East end, diminishing to 2 miles at
the West end ; it is of coral formation, enclosing a lagoon. A rocky bank of
7 to 10 fathoms extends off the West and N.W. sides. There are two towns
on the West end, and several on the East and S.E. parts, and it is thickly in-
habited. The natives who came on board the Peacock said that the two ends
of the island were at war with each other. They are very much the same in
appearance as the natives of Drummond Island ; were naked, and spoke the
same dialect. This island affords neither wood, water, nor refreshments. From
appearances, its inhabitants (about 1,000) must be at times much stinted for
food. The South point is in lat. 0° 8' 30" N., long. 173° 32' 15" E.

KUBIA, or Woodle Island, was, with Hopper and Ilcndervillc Islands, one
of the first discoveries in the group, by Capts. Marshall and Gilbert. It was
surveyed by the U.S. Exploring Expedition. Its greatest length is 5 miles,
N.W. and S.E., and its greatest width, which is at its S.E. end, is 2^ miles.
The remainder is very narrow, and almost divided towards the centre. The
N.W. portion, named Oneaka, has two small lagoons, 200 or 300 yards from
the beach ; the water in them is not so salt as the ocean. In one of them the
bottom consists of red mud on one side, while it is white clay on the other.
They are used as fish-ponds by the chiefs. There is a reef extending to the
N.W., nearly 3 miles.

The island is but partially clothed with trees, consisting of cocoa-nut, pan-
danus, and a few stunted bread-fruit. It has no outer reef, and may be ap-
proached very closely, but it affords neither wood, water, nor refreshments.
The present population is about 1,500, not more than one- third of the estimate
of 1841. The Peacock took off an Irishman, John Kirby, a deserter from an
English whaler, who had not been roasted and eaten on his landing, but had
had the chiefs daughter given him as his wife. He had thus dwelt as one of
them from February 11, 1838, to April 15, 1841. He said that the natives,
though not professed cannibals, sometimes ate human flesh ; but their food is
generally fish.

APAMAMA, Roger Simpson, or Hopper Island, was one of the discoveries
of Capts. Marshall and Gilbert, in the Scarborough and Charlotte, as related
in the voyage of Governor Phillip, 1788. It wos not seen by Capt. Duperrey.
The latter commander believed it to be identical with the Dundas Island of
the brig Elizabeth, 1809. It must also be considered to be beyond doubt the
same as the Roger Simpson Island, discovered by Capt. Bishop in the Nautilut.
A survey was made of it in the U.S. ship Peacock, in 1841.

The islands, which are about 5 ft. above the surface of the ocean, lie on a

reef 10 miles long, N.W. and S.E., and 5 miles in width. The land is continuous

on the North and East sides, excepting two small strips of bare reef. There

is anchorage on the West side, in an opening between the reef and the N.W.

North Pacijic. 6 e

Twn

948

THE GILBERT ARCHIPELAGO.

point of the island, which is about 2 miles wide. Tlio soundings rnry from 3
to 6 fathoms ; across it, in some places, the bottom is broken coral, in others
coral sand. The entrance to the lagoon, although feasible, should not be
attempted through this passage ; but there is a good passage into it on the
South side of the island, which is a mile wide. It has a large population (about
6,000), but yields little more than will supply their wants. A small quantity
of fresh water may bo had by digging on the beaches ; wood and refreshments
are not procurable for shipping.

The chief, who also controls Kuria and Arnnuka Islands, resides on the
largest island, about 2J miles N.W. of its S.K. end, and there is also a German
trading-store here. Vessels can only trade with the natives by permission of
the king.

The southern passage into the lagoon may be readily recognised by Entrance
Island, which forms its eastern side. It is 3 cables wide, with an average
depth of 5^ fathoms, having some knolls of 8 ft. to 3} fathoms in it. Upon
the ebb tide the water is much discoloured. Northward of Entrance Island
the channel is contracted to 1 cable in width, and carries 3} fathoms, again
deepening and widening into the lagoon. It is high water, on full and change,
at 4" 30" ; springs rise 6 ft. The ebb runs 4 knots an hour. Vessels drawing
14 ft. go in with the assistance of native pilots. There is anchorage in 6
fathoms, with the centre of Entrance Islet bearing S.W. by W., half a mile
from the reef. The \\ \, ^nd of Entrance Islet is in lat. 0° 23' 3J" N., long.
173° 47' 45' E.

KAIAHA, or Hall hland. — The i.^ f of Hall has been applied to this
island both by Duperrey and by the American Expedition, though there is
great reason to believe that it was previously seen by the original discoverers
of the group, and then named Gilbert hland. The name, Hall Island, was
given by the commander of the brig Elhab<;t}i, in about 1809. If so, it ought
to be called Gilbert Island, and the other n>',mj has been dropped by Admiral
Krusenstern, who reasoned from the imperfect data then in existence.

Capt. Hudson gives the following account /rom his survey of it : —
It is of coral formation; the N.E. and S.E. parts are a continuous land,
whilst to the S.W. and N.W. it consists of a reef and bank, in some places
awash, with a sand- spit in its lagoon. The western sides of the island are,
therefore, very dangerous, and should be approached with caution, as the sea
seldom breaks on them, and the discolouration of the water is not at all times
to be observed. The population is about 4,000, but it affords neither refresh-
ment, wood, nor water. It is 9 miles in length, N.E. and S.W., and 6 miles
broad. On its West side, on some of the banks, there is anchorage in 10 to 15
fathoms. Its South end is in lat. O" 61' 30" N., long. 172° 55' 30" E. ; its North
end is in lat. 1° 2', long. 172° 56'.
There are two German stores here, one near the North end, and the othec.

TARAWA. H>

near the South end. Anchoring ground is reported about 1 mile 8,W. of the
North extremity.

TABAWA, Cookf or Kni^y Island.* — In this island there has been very
conHiderable confusion of names. Knoy Island was discovered in the Scar-
biirinKjh and Charlotte. A portion (probably) was named Marshall Island.
Ciipuin Duperrcy takes no notice of this name, but applies the name of
Gilbert Island to it. In the periodical publications of 1810 there appeared an
account of the situation of the islands seen by the brig Elizabeth. It was pre-
sumed to be in the year 1809, but oui chart says 1801. The extracts have
been preserved by Mr. Purdy, in his Tables. In that work there is an account
of the discovery of an iHlnnd, which was named Cook's Isle, the account of
which agrees perfectly with that of the South side of Knoy Island, now under
considcrati(m. There is no doubt of their identity. It may be assumed, then,
that Knoy, Cook, and M:;i'shall Island are meant for the same.

It was surveyed in 1841 by the U.S. Exploring Expedition. It is of coral
formation, 20 miles in length, N.W. and S.E. On its East and S.E. sides the
land is continuous and wooded, with the exception of four gaps, where the
reef is bare. The South side is 12 miles long, and trends nearly East and West.
On this part, near the West end, are three hummocks (which appear like
islands in the distance), and several small sand-banks, which are connected by
the same rp'>f. The island has its lagoon, but it has the appearance of beiiig
an extcnsi bay, in consequence of the reef on the West side being a sunken
one, on which is found 5 fathoms of water.

This island is partially wooded, having several groves of cocoa-nut trees on
it, and a dense undergrowth. Several towns were seen on it, and it appeared
to be thickly inhabited. It affords no supplies for vessels. The natives, about
8,000 in number, are entirely the same in appearance, in character, and cus-
toms, with the rest ; they go nuked, and speak the same dialect. They should
not be trusted. No supplies or water could be obtained here.

There is a German trading store 2 miles N.W. of the S.E. extremity, and
about 5 miles westward of it is a small sandy islet, with a few cocoa-nut and
pandanus trees on it, lying in the lagoon. Vessels entering bring this islet to
bear between East and E. by S. \ S. H.M.S. Rosario entered on the latter
bearing, and her ofRcers recommend that, to avoid the numerous shoals, a
vessel should steer to the southward, keeping close along the inside of the
South reef in not less than 6 fathoms. H.M.S. Blanche entered on an East
bearing, and the lagoon was tolerably clear of shoals as far as a line of saud-
bauks extending North and South from the sandy islet ; passing between two
of these shoals southward of the island in 4 fathoms, the Blanche anchored in
9 fathoms about 1 mile eastward of the islet, shut in by sand-banks in every

ind the othec.

* Knox Island in the American work, which is a pervorsion. It is Knoy Island In the

origiual.

048

THE GILBERT ARCHIPELAGO.

direction, H.M.S. Emerald anchored ine:de, off the S. W. idet ; trading vessels
anchor about 1^ mile westward of the trading store.

There is also fair anchorage at the North end of Tarawa, off a small islet on
the reef. The North extremity of Tarawa is in lat. 1° 39' N., long. 172° 64' 30" E.;
the S.E. end is in lat. 1° 22' 15", long. 173° 4' 30",

APAIAHO, Apia, or Charlotte Island. — The latter name was applied to
this collection of iilets by Adm. Erusenstem, from the idea that the term, The
Six Islands, was applied by their discoverer, Capt. Marshall, in the Charlotte.
In the original charts the names of these six i-slands were given as Marshall,
Allen, Gillesfy, Clerk, Smith, and Scarborough ; but they all lie in one reef,
BO must be taken as one. They were not seen by subsequent navigators, par-
ticularly by Duperrey, who would have cleared up the discrepancy. The U.S.
Expedition surveyed it in 1841, and the Narragansett visitod it in 1872.

It is a lagoon island, consisting of a string of coral islets, situated within
a reef, which is 6 or 7 ft. above the water. The reef has a bluff front, and is
much worn by the sea. Its length, in a N.W. and S.E. direction, is 16 miles,
and its average breadth 6 miles. On the East side the land is covered with
cocoa-nut and pandanus groves, with some undergrowth. The N.W. and
West side is a continuous reef, with many islets on it. There is no island in
the lagoon, as shown in the French chart of Duperrey. ILe population is
about 3,000, and there is a mission station here. Small quanties of fowls and
pigs can be obtained, and fish is plentiful. The water is brackish.

There are two ship channels and two boat passages into the lagoon, all on
the S.W. side. The N.W. passage is near the centre, about three-quarters of
a mile N.W. by N. from a thickly-wooded islet ; the channel is from 1 to 2
cables wide, with 2f to 5 fathoms. There is good anchorage outside this
channel in 6 to 8 fathoms, sandy bottom. This passage is used principally by
traders going out, as they have a fair wind through it. Bingham Passage is
the main ship channel, and is used by ail vessels entering the lagoon ; it is If
mile south-eastward of a small white sand-bank with a single tree i n it. It is
about 200 yards wide, with 2f to 5 fathoms water. The deepest part of the
channel is on the eastern side. There is good anchorage both outside and in-
side this passage, in 8 to 12 fathoms, sand and cori»l bottom. There arc
numerous coral patches between this passage and the mission station, off which
there is anchorage, but they are easily avoided.

There is a German trading store about 7 miles northward of the S.E. point.
The North point of this group is in lat. 1° 58' N., long. 172" 60' 30" E. ; the
S.E. point is in lat. 1° 44' 30", long. 172° 69'.

HABAKI, or Matthew Island, was also one of the original discoveries by
Capts. Marshall and Gilbert, in 1788. It is much smaller than cither Tarawa
or Apaiang, and is a lagoon island, of coral formation. It is but 5 miles long,
N. by E. and 8. by W., and 2^ miles wide at its base, being of a triangular
shape. It appeared to be densely peopled, for many villugcs were sccsi. Capt.

n .i

MARAKI— TARITARI— MAKIN.

949

Randall estimated tho populatiou at 2,000. Their dialect and customs were
the same as the rest of the group.

The principal village is on the West sidd, about H mile southward of the
North point, off which there is reported to be anchorage, but H.M.S. Etpiigle
could find none. There is a German trading store here. There is also reported
to be a boat passage into the lagoon, about 2 miles northward of the S.W. end.
•jfhe North end of Maraki is in lat. 2" 3' N., long. 173° 17' 30" E.

Of the discovery of Taritari and Makin Islands there appears to be no exact
record. They were not seen by Marshall and Gilbert, nor by Duperrey ; but
they were placed too far to the East on the chart. The name of Touching
Island h given to Taritari, the westernmost island, on Arrowsmith's chart.
They were examined by Capt. Hudson, of the U.S. Exploring ship Peacock.

TABITAAI, Luiaritari, or Touching Island, is somewhat of the figure of a
triangle, with its apex to the South, and its sides are above 14 miles in length.
The S.E. side is an almost continuous grove of cocoa-nut and pandanus, with
some undergrowth, and about 4 miles N.E. of the S.W. point is a German
trading store. On the two other sides is a reef, which is awash, excepting the
N.W. point, in which there is a small boat inlet. The population was about
1,500 in 1874 ; they appeared well disposed, civil, and more settled than on
any other of the group. The chief resides at Makin. There are several lakes
or lagoons of fresh water on the island.

The entrances to the lagoon lie close together, near the centre of the West
side. The northern one has a depth of 6 fathoms, but the southern entrance
is the best, being about 4 cables wide wiUi a least depth of 9 fathoms between
the reefs. There is a white house on a small island near the entrance. There
are numerous shoal patches iiisidd the lagoon, all easily avoided. The course
in is about N.E. until inside all the shoals, then bring a conspicuous large liut
to bear S.E. by S. f S., which will lead to the anchorage in 13 fathoms, which
is off a large village. H.M.S. Rosario found the bottom very uneven.

The S.W. point of Taritari is in lat. 3" 1' 30" N., long. 172^ 46' 15" E. ; the
North point is in lat. 3° 14', long. 172° 41'.

MAKIN, or Pitt Island, is of much smiillcr dimensions, being but 6 miles
long, N.N.E. and S.S.W., and from half a mile to 2 miles in width. Its N.E.
point lies in lat. 3° 20' 45 " N., long. 172° 58' 45 E. This small island is the
seat of government, and the natives now unite both names under the one of
Makin. When the Peacock approached, above twenty canoes came off, with
from five to ten natives in each ; in one of them was a white man, Robert
Wood or Grey, who had been left on the island by an English whaler, at his
own request, seven years before. Dr. Gulick estimated the population at 600.
There is no anchorage here.

Faanopa, L'anaba, or Ocean Island, in lat. 0° 52' S., long. 168° 24' 25" E.,

~'-'*-">W?tl-<X5i.>;,.,.;X«!V

050

THE MARSHALL ARCHIPELAGO.

(Dutaillis), is considered as a part of the Gilbert Islands, but is described in
o\ir South Pacific Directory.

Nawodo, Onavero, or Pleasant Island, is also included in the Gilbert
Archipelago, but it is far to leeward. Capt. Cheyne places it in lat. 0° 25' S.,
long. 167° 5' £. It is also described in the South Pacific Directory.

i 1

Si '

m I

THE MARSHALL ARCHIPELAGO.

This extensive collection of islands lies between lat. 4° 30' N. and 12° 30' N.,
and is separated from the Gilbert Islands by a channel 160 miles broad. The
Rev. Dr. L. H. Gulick has devoted much attention to this group, as well as
to the other islands of Micronesia, and his nomenclature will be followed here-
after. The spelling of the native names is that adopted by the Micronesian
Mission — the system of Lepius. He considers that it is almost certain that
Alvaro de Saavedra visited both chains in 1529. More than two centuries
elapsed before they were again visited, as far as is known. Captain Wallis
visited what are now known as the Rongerik Islimds in 1767.

But the most important of the early voyages is that of 1781, by Captains
Marshall and Gilbert, of the English Navy, in the ships Scarborough and
Charlotte, bound from Port Jackson to China, which voyage originated in
the first colonization of Australia. As Captain Marshall was the principal
officer of the expedition, his name has been applied to the whole archipelago
by Elrusenstem and others ; that of Capt. Qilibert has been given to that to the
southward. There is considerable confusion in the original accounts. Captain
Gilbert having named some of the islands already named by Capt. Marshall ;
and Capt. Bishop, who ten years later discovered some of them, also named
them, which caused great difficulties in the nomenclature, which were not de-
creased by the great discrepancies between the respective longitudes given by
tliese officers.

Besides the discoveries of Capt. Marshall, there is another range of islands,
the Ralik chain, occupying the same extent of latitude, within 3 degrees to
the westward of them, discovered by various navigators proceeding to India.

In May, 1816, Kotzebue first saw the closely-connected groups of Taka and
Utirik, while on his way to the North. In January succeeding, after rec.uiting
nt the Sandwich Islands, he again visited this region, and discovered and
thoroughly explored the greater number of the llatak Islands. In October of
the same year he again returned directly from the North to these islands, and
added still another group to his discoveries, so leaving only Me three soutborii
atolls of the range une.xplored. In October, 1825, on his second \':)C'^c, Le
ngnin visited these islands, and added to his former explorations the four mtiit
northern groups of the Ratak Islands, the most eastern and western o** which
mxy be called discoveries, though he made most singular and coi-.iusing mis-

described in

the Gilbert
lat. 0° 25' S.,
ory.

Qdl2»30'N.,
1 broad. The
p, as well as
'ollowed here-
I Micronesian
: certain that
bwo centuries
iptuiu Wullis

by Captains
rborough and
originated in
the principal
3 archipelago
to that to the
unts, Captain
>t. Marshall ;
also named
were not de-
des given by

e of islands,
3 degrees to
ig to India,
of Taka and
«r rec.-uiting
icovered and
n October of

islands, and
ree southoru

V'.vq'c, he
ic four mi-it
rn o*" which

THE MARSHALL AECIHrELAGO.

961

takes in giving native names, mistakes never before noticed, and which long
perplexed Dr. Gulick.

In 1792 Capt. Bond discovered two of the Ealik Islands, and in 1797 Capt.
Dermott another. In 1804, the English ship Ocean, and again in 1809 the
brig Elizabeth, saw several of the middle Ratnk Islands. But of all others, the
most important nam( connected with the Marshall Islands is that of Kotzebuo,
of the Russian Navy.

After Kotzebue, Capt. Duperrey determined one group in 1824 ; since which
they have been visited by Capt. Hagemeister, in 1831 ; by Captains Chramt-
schcnkoand Schanz, of the Russian Navy, in 1829, 1832, and 1835; by the
U.S. Exploring Expedition, in 1840 ; and Capt. Cheyne, in 1845.

Several other visits to the different islands are also noticed by Dr. Gulick,
a most important event being the establishment of the Mission under Dr.
Pierson, in Kusaie, in 1855, which was subsequently removed to Ebon, where
it still remains under the charge of the Rev. Mr. Doane.

We are also much indebted for more accurate accounts of these islands to
the reports of Lieut. Fenn, H.M.S. Barrosa, 1872 ; Lieut. Tanner, U.S. ship
Narragansett, 1872; Commander Dupuis and Lieut. Browne, H.M.S. Rosario,
1874; Mr. J. Bray, master of the Missionary vessel Morning Star, 1880;
Capt. Maxwell and Lieut. Stocker, H.M.S. Herald, 1881; Capt. Bridge and
Lieut. Ommanney, H.M.S. Eipiegle, 1883 ; and of others, including those of
the German corvettes Ariadne, 1878, and Habicht, 1881. In the " Annalen
dov Hydrographie," 1881, Heft x., is a description of these islands by Captain
Jr.v...*; Witt.

Tnv .'lies or chains of islands, lying nearly parallel to each other, and run-
i> Ttj/j > \V. an'l S.E., are included under the name Marshall Islands. The more
eo"^ .n in the Ratak (the Radack of Kotzebue), and the western is the Balik.
Eacr ^ ..I numbers about fifteen low coralline groups of islands. Several of
these islands are very small, without lagoons; but the greater number ore fully-
furip jd atolls, and some of them are of an immense size.

". he population of the orchipelago does not, probably, number over about
T 0,000 : 6,000 perhaps in the Ratak chain, and probably 4,000 in the Ralik
Islands. And yet almost every one of their thirty atolls is inhabited ; from
which it may be gathered that the islands are but sparsely populated. Yet
intercourse with a very considerable portion of the inhabitants is secured by
KiVfng a permanent station, for they roam in their proas from island to island
' taoii respective ranges. There is comparatively little intercourse between
the two principal chains.

Nominally each range is subject to a high chief, or more properly to a chief
family. But several of the southern Ralik Islands are now independent of their
feudal head, who lives on Aurh. So, also, in the Ralik chain, the four northern
islands are held by a very slight cord of dependance.

The language of the two ranges is substantially the same, though there are

952

THE MARSHALL ARCHIPELAGO.

dialectic differences. And though the vocabulary of this language differs from
any spoken in the Caroline Archipelago, its grammatical construction bears the
most striking similarity to those westward.

In physical appearance the people are not unlike the Caroline islanders, as
described on Ponapi and Kusaie, save perhaps that they are a little coarser and
more vigorous in their manners, and perhaps also a little darker complexioned.
They seem more excitable and merciful than any of the Caroline islanders we
have met. It is sad to be obliged to report that disease has been rapidly
introduced among the Balik islanders by whale-ships passing the islands.

The only supv^i<:i which can be obtained at the islands are cocoa-nuts,
bread-fruit, &c., i. > 'ew fowls and pigs may be had at some of the larger

ones, where trading o s have been established. Water may sometimes be

obtained by digging weud, but it is usually brackish.

Winds. — The weather about the Marshall Islands is unsettled. In May and
June almost incessant rain and heavy squalls have been experienced, the wind
usually being a little to the northward of East in the latter month, during the
visit of H.M.S. EtpiigU. The prevailing wind from November to June is the
N.E. trade, but from July to October westerly winds, with unsettled weather,
may be expected. The Narragansett experienced variable winds during July
and August, the season of the doldrums, when much squally and rainy weather
may be expected.

The Currents among the reefs and islets are very irregular and uncertain.
Between about 4° and 8° N. the Equatorial counter c irrent, running to the
eastward, may be expected to be met with, running about 1 to 1^ knot.

The prevailing currents whiljt among the Marshall group were from the
eastward, about 1^ mile an hour, running occasionally, however, with equal
velocity in the opposite direction, caused apparently by the change of wind,
which was very variable, in September and October, with constant squalls and
rain. — Capt. Simpson, H.M.S. Blanche, 1872.

The BATAX CHAIN is the westernmost, and contains fifteen groups of
islands, in the following order, commencing from the South, viz. : — Mili,
Majuro, Arhno, Aurh, Maloelab, Erikub, Wotje, Likieb, Jemo, Ailuk, Mejit,
Taka, Utirik, Bikar, and Taongi. The last group, generally known as the
Smyth Isles, is so &r detached and uninhabited, that it will be described in
the next Chapter.

As the recent spelling of these native names differs so much from the previous
orthography, the older form will be given in parentheses.

MILI, (Milk J, or Mulgrave Islands, received their English name from their
discoverer, Capt. Marshall, in 1788. They were afterwards examined by Capt.
Duperrey and Capt. Chramtschenko, and by M. Dutaillis in 1848.

They appear to form a chain of atolls, together taking a sort of quadrilateral
figure, about 30 miles in extent, W.N.W. and E.S.E. The islands, almost all

MILI— PORT RHIN.

;uage differs from
truotion bears the

line islanders, as
little coarser and
er complexioned.
line islanders we
ms been rapidly
the islands,
are coco?t-nut8,
ime of the larger
ay sometimes be

id. In May and
enced, the wind
>nth, during the
r to June is the
lettled weather,
ads during July
d rainy weather

and uncertain,
running to the
H knot,
were from the
er, with equal
lange of wind,
int squalls and

een groups of

viz. :— Mili,

Ailuk, Mejit,

mown as the

described in

quadrilateral
ds, almost all

of which are connected with each other at low water, are sometimes separated
at high tides by the sea. Having been formed successively from coral, marine
productions, and the debris of vegetation, they have in the course of ages
acquired their great breadth. Here and there ore grouped some trees, among
which are the native houses, lliese smaller masses of verdure give to the
ohain the appearance uf small islands, on which cocoa-nut and bread-fruit
trees, &c., form clumps of beautiful verdure. The parts covered with trees,
being the largest, generally form the points around which the current runs
very strong.

In general, the whole chain is very steep-to on the outside, and only in-
creases on the side of the interior lagoon, where it is less disturbed by the sea,
and where the coral banks are still in course of formation. When they reach
the level of the water, they become, like the islands already formed, covered in
their turn by sand and some vegetables.

The space enclosed by these islands is a real sea, navigable for every de-
scription of vessels. The bottom, generally at the depth of 22 to 27 fathoms,
rises now and then nearer the surface, and shows in white patches, which thus
indicating the dangers, also point out the spots where the anchor may be
dropped. These banks, bestrewed with rocks, are nevertheless dangerous to
anchors and moorings, because they will break the one and chafe the other, of
which Capt. Dutaillis says he had sad experience. To take the best position,
attention ought to be paid to the rise of the tide. Its level has great influence
on the quality of the bottom, and it ought only to be chosen, if possible, at
low water.

Port Ehin, the ship passage into the lagoon, lies on the North side of the
reef, between Barr Island (pronounced as if three r's) and Tokoeoa Island, the
first to the East, and the other to the West, of the entrance. On Tokoeoa are
the stores of a German trading firm. The passage is about 2 cables broad,
and in proceeding for the anchorage steer along the western reefs, passing be-
tween them and a reef lying 2 cables to the eastward, then haul to the S.W.
and anchor as convenient in about 15 fathoms, mud and sand, 2 cables South
of Tokoeoa Reef, with the centre of Barr Island bearing N.W. ,

The Narragansett anchored in 15^ fathoms, with the West end of Barr Island
bearing N. by E. 4 E., and the S.W. end of Tokoeoa N.W. by W. i W.,
out of the tideway. The course in is about S.E. by S., the channel being
straight and clear until inside the islets, with from 10 to 20 fathoms of water ;
the tide is strong, but it runs nearly in the direction of the channel. Fresh
water, of a fair quality, can be procured from pits near the centre of Barr
Islet, and wood may be obtained in small quantities ; a few fowls and pigs can
be procured, and fish are plentiful, but many sorts are poisonous.

To reach the anchorage, with winds from the eastern quarter, take up such
a position as will allow you to range as near as possible to the pitch of the
North Pacific. 6 r

954

THE MARSHALL ARCHIPELAGO.

eastern reef, dnd round the bank attached to Barr Ifllaud as near as you please ;
it is shown by the whitish water. Pass southward of a rook lying 3 cables
S.E. by S. i S. from the observation spot on tb South end of Barr Island.
It is a small patch, over which the flood tide ruii8 with a velocity of IJ^ knot;
until half-tide it is indicated by very strong ripplings, and becomes nearly
awash at low water. Numerous shoal heads lie between this rock and the
fringe reef to the northward.

The 2i-fathoms patch shown on the chart, 5 cables S.E. i S. from the ob-
servation spot, was not seen from H.M. ships E»piitfle and Emerald; it is re-
ported to lie farther to the north-westward.

In general, it is better to enter or leave with the tide, unless indeed the
breeze is fair, and of sufficient force to overcome the strength of the current.
The less distance you are inside the anchorage, the less difficulty there will be
in getting out with westerly winds.

The observation spot on the South end of Barr Island is in lat. 6° 14' N., long.
171" 46' E., according to Capt. A. B6rard, of the French Navy. It is high
water, on full and change, at 5" ; springs rise 6^ ft.

There was another passage, but for boats only, between Anil Island and
Bouguenieu, the latter being the first islet to the West of Tokoeoa. The
distance between these two passes may be about 1^ mile.

There is a good pt. iage into the lagoon, in lat. 6° 15' N., long. 171° 49' E.,
and a good anchorage immediately inside the lagoon off a small village, used
by H.M.S. Barrosa.

Tapimoor Pass, about 8 miles eastward of Port Rhin, is bounded on the
West by Tapimoor Island. The Habicht entered by this pass, and steered
S.W. by S. for the anchorage off Mille Island.

There is a wide passage on the eastern side of the group to the lagoon.
Between this passage and the N.W. point of the group there are eight other
good passages for large ships. The best anchorage is at the S.E. end of the
lagoon, in 8 fathoms. — Mr. J, Bray.

Mille Island, the largest of the Mulgrave group, is situated at the S.W.
extreme, and is the residence of the chief, and the greater part of the popula-
tion ; all are Christians, a missionary living among them. In 1881, the popu-
lation of the group numbered about 700. The anchorage is off the East ex-
treme, in 16 fathoms, and there is good landing.

Between Mille Island and Port Rhin, there is no passage for even a boat
over the reef, and south-eastward from Mille Island are a few very low islands.
Lukunos Island, at the S.E. extreme of the group, has a wide passage on its
western side.

Knox Islands, four in number, extend 4 miles, North and South, and lie 6
miles, W.S.W., from Lukunos Island, with a deep channel between them and
the reef.

Keats Bank. — In 1872, Capt. Keats sounded in 13 to 5 fathoms, the bottom

ar OS you please ;
Ic lying 3 cables

of Barr Islund.
)city of H knot;

becomes nearly
lis rock and the

S. from the ob-
merald ; it is re-

nleas indeed the
I of the current,
iilty there will be

,t.6''14'N.,long.
avy. It is high

Anil Island and
f Tokoeoa. The

long. 171" 49' E.,
lall village, used

bounded on the
pass, and steered

ip to the lagoon.

; are eight other

S.E. end of the

ited at the S.W.

irt of the popula-

n 1881, the popu-

off the East ex-

^e for even a boat
>' very low islands,
le passage on its

South, and lie 6
etween them and

thorns, the bottom

MAJURO— AllUNO.

955

being distinctly seen, on a shoal in hit. 5*^ 55' N., long. 173° 38' E., about 85
miles eastward of Mulgrave Islamls.

MAJUBO or Arrowamith (Mcduro) Islands were discovered by Captains
Marshall and Gilbert, though their account and chart of them are not very
definite. Capt. Chramtschenko examined them in detail. Ilic group contains
thirty-three islands, some very small, situated on a reef about 30 miles in ex-
tent, W. by N. and E. by S., and 10 miles wide. It is of the usual coral
brmation, enclosing a lagoon ; the largest island, named Majuro, is 25 miles
long, and bounds the southern and western sides of the lagoon. It is a mag-
nificent island, with elegant forests of breud-fruit and pandunus. Cocoa-nuts,
of course, abound, and bananas seem to be plentiful. The inhabitants are
variously estimated between 1,500 and 3,000; they are constantly at war, the
northern islands against the southern. Cocoa-nuts, taro, and fowls can be ob-
tained. It is high water, on full and change, at 4** 45°*.

The entrance to the lagoon is on the North side, in about lat. 7° 1 2' N. ; it
is about 1^ mile wide, but a shoal coral bank divides it into two channels,
having a least depth of about 7 fathoms. The entrance is easily recognised by
the small round islet on its western side ; the West channel is close to this
islet. When entering, this is perhaps the easier channel to distinguish, but it
is further to leeward during easterly winds. A vessel making this channel
from the eastward should keep the small islet a little on the port bow, steer-
ing W. by S. until the passage is seen ; a S.S.W. course leads through it.
Having passed through, steer for a remarkable small sharp gap in the island
on the East side of the atoll, until the white buildings on Ejeet Island are seen,
when a course may be shaped for the anchorage.

A sailing vessel entering the East channel with an easterly wind, must luff
close round the reef off the island on the East side of the entrance ; when
through, steer for the before-mentioned sharp gap, bearing E. by S., until the
white buildings are seen.

The western portion of the lagoon is much encumbered with reefs, but the
eastern part is free from danger, with the exception of an off-lying reef near
the northern side. Inside there is an almost constant westerly current,
weakest near the northern side. There is no entrance to the lagoon from the
Enst side.

Ejeet Island is 9J miles from the entrance, and here is a trading station,
where there is a tank of rain-water. On the shoal IJ cable S. J W. from the
southern flagstaff is a beacon, on which a light is placed at night when a vessel
is known to be in the lagoon.

Good anchorage will be found in 25 fathoms, about 3 cables from the trading
station on Jeridy Island, at the East end of the lagoon. The centre of Jeridy
Island is in lat. 7" 4' N., long. 171° 24' 30" E.

ABHHO, Djuniel Islands, or Pedder Islands. — To the Enst of the fore-
going, Capts. Marshall and Gilbert discovered what they supposed to be two

006

THE MARSHALL ARCHIPELAGO.

groups, to which these names were applied, calling the broad and open chan-
nel separating them from Arrowsmith Island Fordyce Passage. The follow-
ing description is principally from the reports of Lieut. Tanner, U.S. ship
Narraffanaelt, and Mr. J. Bray, master of the Morning Star, 1 880.

Arhno has a greater extent of land than any other reef in the Ratak chain.
It is of singular shape, and has a vast extent of reef, measuring more than 100
miles in circumference, approaching the shape of a square, with narrow pro-
longations to the N.E. and North. It is of coral formation, the land being
from 100 to 600 yards in width, covered with iron-wood, cocoa-nut, pandanus,
and bread-fruit trees, the tops of the trees being visible about 18 miles from
the mast-head. In 1882 the population numbered about 3,000, the northern
islands being frequently at war against the southern.

•^ Extending about 4 miles N.N.W. from the N.W. point is a coral reef of 4
to 6 fathoms, ^ ere a vessel might anchor for the night in quiet weather.
There is a trading station about 2 miles N.W. of the S.E. point, with anchor-
age outside in 15 to 20 fathoms, i ^'' over 200 yards from the shore, but unsafe,
except with an easterly wind.

The enclosed lagoon is deep, and has few places with less than 22 fathoms.
The eastern side appears tolerably clear of dangers, but the West side is said
to be foul. The only entrances are on the North side, where there are four,
two ship and two boat channels.

he course in through the eastern passage is about S. by E., carrying about
4 fathoms over the reef, and passing eastward of High Island, the trees on
which arc much higher than those on the adjacent islets, and it is conspicuous
from all parts of the atoll. Dodo Passage is about 4 miles to the north-
westward ; the course in is about S.S.W., passing to the eastward of a small
wooded islet on the inner edge of the reef, a little to the right of mid-channel.
It is difficult to steer given courses in these passages, owing to the strong tides;
the eye is the only safe guide. Dodo Passage is wider and clearer than the
other ; it can be seen but a short distance, as the islets on either side and that
on the inner edge of the reef appear to be one. The two boat passages, be-
tween this and the eastern passage, are narrow.

H.M.S. Rosario, in 1874, entered by the East passage, finding 4} fathoms
least water. On leaving, a passage about 1 mile to the North was used, 6
fathoms being the least depth obtained, and traders report that this is the best
entrance to the lagoon.

A direct course from the eastern passage to the anchorage off the trading
station leads close westward of three small patches, about 4 miles within the
entrance; no other shoals were seen on this track. —H.M.S. Emerald, 1881.

The following positions were established by Commander Meade, U.S. ship
Narragansett-.—The N.E. point, lat. 7° 9' 17" N., long. 17P 56' 30" E. ; the
N.W. point, lat. 7^ 18' 47", long. 171° 38' 38"; the S.W. point, lat. 6° 59' 37",

AURH— MALOELAB.

957

long. 171« 31' 16'; and the S.E. point, lot. 6° 54' 2", long. 171" 44' 10", It
is high water, on I'uil and change, at 4** 45"*.

ATJBH, Ibbetion, or Traversey Islanda. — On Arrowsmith's chai't a group,
Ibbetson Islands, is marked, the same named by Kotsebue after the Marquis
de Traversey, ana by the natives Aurh.

This group is 16 miles long, N.W. by W. and S.E. by E., and 4 to 9 miles
broad, enclosing a deep lagoon. On the surrounding reef are thirty-two
islands, the N.W. of which is Pigen. The population is itumerous when com-
pared with the other isluuds, but scanty for its size ; it is about 1,000. Stobual
Island, at the N.E. end, has a very pleasant aspect. Kotzcbue placed his
anchorage in lat. 8° 18' 42", long. 171" 12' E. (by chronometer, 171" 8' 14"),
and procured great quantities of cocoa-nuts here. Aurh is at the S.E. end of
the atoll, and, as before mentioned, is the residence of the feudal chief of many
of the groups. The S.E. island is in lat. 8° 10', long. 171° 12'.

We entered through a passage about 200 yards wide, near the S.E. end of
the island, having 2^ fathoms least water. On leaving, we came out through
one of the five passages we found through the N.W. reef, four of which are
wide and deep. — Mr. J. Bray.

MALOELAB (Kaven), Calvert, Bass Reef-tied, or Araktcheeff Islands.—
This group was discovered on board the ships Scarborouffh and Charlotte, June
29, 1788, and were namod Calvert Islands, probably by Capt. Gilbert. The
Nautilus saw some islands, July 5, 1799, which were then named the Bass
Reef-tied Islands, which are identical with Calvert Islands. Capt. Kotzcbue
says their native name is Kaven (or Kawen), and he applies the name of
Araktcheeff (or Araksheef ) to them. Dr. Gulick calls them by the first name.

This group, consisting of sixty-four islands, was well surveyed by Kotzebue,
and is 33 miles long, N.W. and S.E., and 5 to 16 miles broad, enclosing a deep
and extensive lagoon, in which there is anchorage off some of the islands. Its
inhabitants, about 1,000 in number, arc precisely similar to those of Wotjc,
to the N.W. Kaven, or Araktcheeff, is the N.W. and largest island; it is 2 J
miles long, and three-quarters of a mile broad, and is in lat. 8° 51' N., long.
170" 49' E. The S.E. island is in Int. 8" 29' 30", long. 171° 1!'. It is high
water, on full and change, at 4** 35"> ; the greatest rice is 5 ft. Kotzebue found
very good water in pits on some of the islands, but provisions were not very
abundant.

Near the N.W. end is a passage half a mile wide, with three coral patches
in it. From the N.W. end to the S.W. end there are eight good passages,
several of which the Morning Star passed through. — Mr. J. Bruy.

Tjan is a well-cultivated island, and only useful trees, such as the cocoa-nut,
pandanus, and bread-fruit, are suffered, there. The anchorage off this island
is in Idt. 8° 52' 39", long. 171" 1' 31". Ofo/,off which there is anchorage in 8
fathoms, coral sand, is in lat. 8" 46', long. 171° 9' 42" (by chronometer). Torua,
which is twice as large as Tjan, is in lat. S'' 43' 10", long. 17P 9' 35", Theucj

! 1

958

THE MARSHALL ARCniPELAGO.

the atoll trends to the southward, ond finally fartlicr south-eastward (the
islands being generally small) to Airik, which is about the same size us Torua,
and affords a more beautiful proftpect than any of the other islands. There is
excellent anchorage, in 8 fathoms, about half a cable from the island, in lat.
8^31', long. 171" lOi'.

EBIKIJB (Egerup), or Biihop Junction Islands. — This is the southern of
two groups, which together were called Chatham Itlanda, from the voyage of
the Scarborough and Charlotte, probably by Captain Gilbert. The northern
group, Wotje, appears to have been considered aa a portion of it, and Captain
Marshall took them for the Barhadoea Islands, marked upon Anson's chart.
They were surveyed by Kotzcbue, who states tho native name to be Egeru]),
ond also gives the name of Tschitschayoff to them.

Erikub, or Egerup, lies to the southward of Wotje, and is somewhat smaller,
being 25 miles in length, N.W. and S.E., and 6 to 11 miles in breadth. The
whole circle consists of one reef, and contains comparatively few islands. Its
South point is an island, probably named Egerup, the only one seen with
cocoa-nut trees and people ; but these, it was said, were limited to one man
and two old women. Dr. Gulick says that it is uninhabited. A passage neur
this perhaps may be navigable, but is dangerous from its numerous turnings.
There appears but little inducement for visiting the group. The South point
is in about lat. 8° 56' N., long. 170» 6' E.

WOTJE (Otdia), or Romanzoff Islands, lie about 3 miles North of the pre-
ceding. The latter name is applied by Kotzebue, but the remarks relating
to their earlier discovery also belong to those of the Erikub group, as above
stated.

This group was minutely examined and surveyed by Kotzebue, in January,
1817. It is of an irregular oval form, 29 miles long. East and West, by 6 to
12 miles in breadth. It consists of the usual encircling reef, on which are
distributed sixty-five islands, of various magnitudes. Wotje ( Wotye), or Otdia,
is the easternmost and largest, about 2 miles long ; the anchoring place inside
it, which was called Christmas Harbour (or Port Noel), wos ascertained to be
in lat. 9° 28' 9" N., long. 170° 16' 5" E. As the low land here has no influence
on the atmosphere, the barometer falls and rises as uniformly as it generally
does between the tropics. The mean of the tidal observations gave for the
time of high water, on full and change, 2'' SO"" ; the greatest range was 7 ft.
The people were very friendly to Kotzebue, who remained here a considerable
time; Dr. Gulick estimated the total population at 300. To the S.S.W. of it
is an island, called by Kotzebue Egmedio, near to the S.E. angle of the reef;
to the South of it is a small high island.

The reef is quite continuous to the N.W. of Otdia, and on it stands a con-
nected chain of small islands, reaching as far as Ormed Island, at the North
part of the reef, 8 miles JGrom Otdia. The anchorage here is in lat. 9" 33' 16",
long. 170° 10' 68".

WOTJE— LIKIEB-JEMO.

959

uth-eastwnrd (the
amo size us Torua,
islands. There is
the island, in lat.

s the southern of
rom the voyage of
rt. The northern
of it, and Captain
}n Anson's chart,
ne to be Egerup;

somewhat smaller,
in breadth. The

few islands. Its

ly one seen with

nited to one man

A passage near

imerous turnings.

The South point

North of the pre-
i remarks relating
> group, as above

jbue, in January,
id West, by 6 to
ef, on which ore
Wotye), or Otdia,
Dring place inside

nscertoincd to be

has no influence
y as it generally
ons gave for the

range was 7 ft.
re a considerable

the S.S.W. of it
agle of the reef;

it stands a con-
«</, at the North
in Iftt. 9" 33' 16",

From Ormed, the North side of the reef, also quite continuous, runs to
W.S.W., 8 miles, to Bird hland, and 9 miles still farther tc Qoat Island, from
whence to the West end of the reef is S mile»

There are several channels through the reef, all on the lee side. The first is
1^ mile S.E. of the West point, narrow and impracticable; the next is Rurick
Strait, 6 miles fiirther round the reef, by which Kotzebue entered. From
hence the reef continues, without islands, nearly 20 miles, to Schiachmareff
Strait, in every way preferable to Rurick Strait, as a ship can beat in or out
with the usual trade-wind. To the East of this again is Lagediak Strait, A
miles from the S.E. point of the group.

LIXIEB (Legiep), or Count Ileidm hlandt. — This group, ficitseen by Capt.
Kotzebue, November 5, 1817, and more closely examined in his second voyage,
perfectly resembles the others. There ore forty-four islands in the group,
which is 27 miles in length, N.W. by W. and S.E. by E., and from 7 to 12
miles wide. The natives are tall, handsome, robust men, advantageously dis-
tinguished from the other Radokers; they live chiefly on fish. Dr. Gulick
states the population to be 300. There are two entrances to the lagoon,
one on the South side, and the other on the West, which enable the lagoon to
be entered or left with the trade-wind. From this cause, and the appearance
of excellent anchorage, Kotzebue recommended this group to any navigator
wishing to put into Badak.

On the N.W. side are several large islands, well covered with cocoa-nut
trees. Likieh, the largest island, lies at the S.E. extreme, and belongs to a
European firm engaged in planting cocoa-nuts ; its S.E. end is in lat. 9° 48' N.,
long. 169° 21' E. It has a supply of good water.

The ship passage into the lagoon is South Pass, near the middle of the
southern reef. It is divided into two channels by a small island juHt inside the
lagoon ; vessels may use either channel, taking core not to pass too clote to
the eastern side of the island. On the West side there are two passages
northward of Kapenor Island, suitable for small craft only, both bein^ .b-
struoted by reefs. Anchorage may be obtained outside the lagoon, off H'-?-^..

The lagoon is tolerably clear of reefs in the northern part, but much ob-
structed by dangers in the S.E. portion. The anchorage off Likieb is in not
less than 9 fiidioms, good holding ground, and sheltered from winds from N.E.
and W.S.W. There is also good anchoroge, in 5 to 15 fathoms, westward of the
island next North of Likieb, on a gradually shelving bottom of sand and mud.

JEMO (Temo), or Steep-to Island, is a small island, seen in thn Nautilus, to
which the latter name was applied. Capt. Kotzebue says its native name is
Temo. It is a small uninhabited sandy island, three-quarters of a mile in ex-
tent, N.E. and S.W., the centre being in lat. 10° 6' N., long. 169° 42' B. It
may be approached on its western side to about half a mile distant, but a reef,
with breakers, extends 5 miles from the N.E. side, and from thence discoloured
water, with depths of 20 to 30 fathoms, extends to the S.W. part of Ailuk.

«'

960

THE MARSHALL ARCHIPELAOO.

■li!

4 ;

Si!

MBJIT (Miadi), or New Year laland, was dioooTercd by Kotzobue, January
1, 1817. It is a low woody island, 3 miles long. North and South, and three>
quarters of a mile broad. This island is surrounded by reefs, extending 3^
miloa to the N.E., from 1 to 1^ mile on the North and West sides, and about
2 cables to the southwaiJ. I*, is clothed with a lovely verdure, and is in-
htoLitd by a similar race to those on the Kutusoff Islands, but they are said to
be not more than 60 in number. The position of the middle of the island is
lat. 10° 17' 80« N., long. 170» 66' E.

AILUK, Tindal and Watic, or Kruien^tern Itlandi. — Admiral Krusenstem
considers this [^roup tc be the sanie as that nnmed by Capt. Marshall, in 1788,
Tindall ard Wattn Island. Kotzebue supposed it to be a new discovery,
March 1, 1817, and applied the name of the great hydrographer to it. Its
native name is \ilu (or AiluU). Kotzebue surveyed it.

The group is 20 miles lor.g, N.N.W. and S.S.E., and 6 to 8 miles broad, and
has about 1 20 inhabitants. Kotzebue entered the lagoon by a deep but narrow
channel towards the North part. The eastern side of the group is formed by
a chain of islands, but the western side consists of a coral reef. Ailuk. or Aiht,
which gives its Uame to the whole, is at the S.E. end ; it is small, scarcely a
mile long, but has a pleasing appearance, and is distinguished from the rest
by its tall palm-trees. Good water cnn be obtained here. Its centre 's in lat.
10° 12' 30" N., long. 170" 4' E. Capeniur Island is the northernmost of the
group. Kotzebue's anchorage wos in lat. 10° 17" 25", long. 169° 69' 20". It
was high water, on full and cha.ige, at 4*^ 53"* ; the rise was 8 ft.

Near the northern part of the western reef there ere reported to be two
nivrow but clear passages into the lagoon at high water, and also a boat pas-
sage near the western part of the South reef. The anchorage in the lagoon is,
off Ailuk Island, in 12 fathoms, not nearer than 1^ mile to the island. The
anchorage in the northern part is better.

UTI&IK (Udiriok), Kutusoff or Button Islands. — On a chart inserted in
the voyage of Governor Phillip, two islands are marked as the Button Islands,
from the authoaty of Capt. Marshall, 1788. They were not inserted on any
other chart, and thus Kotzebue considered them as a fresh discovery, May 21,
1815, on his passiige to Kamchatka. This group and Taka, taken together,
have almost a North and South direction, and extend thus for 28 miles.
Eutuaoff, or Uiirik, at the S.E- end, was the only one inhabited. The island
first seen by Kotzebue had a beautiful grove of cocoa-nut trees. The people
came off, and were firiendly ; they were of a black colour, with straight black
hair. The island is now stated to be cultivated, but not permanently in-
habited. 7-4;; i"H'u I s

According to Kotzebue, the North point of the reef is in lat. 11" 29' N.,
long. 169° 54' B. Utirik Island is in lat. 11° 14' 30", long. 169° 57'.

TAXA (Tagai), or Souworoff, like the former group, consists of small
islands, connected by coral reefs, and seems to contain deep water in the

DIKAK— THE RALIK CHAIN.

901

oizebue, Jnnuarj
South, aud three<
fs, extending 3^
sides, and about
Tdure, and is in*
t they are said to
3 of the island is

iral Krusenstern

[arshall, in 1788,

new discovery,

ipher to it. Its

miles broad, and
deep but narrow
ip is formed by
Ailuk. or Ailu,
mall, scarcely a
id from the rest
centre 's in lat.
lernmost of the
69° 69' 20". It
ft.

irted to be two
Iso a boat pas-
n the lagoon is,
le island. The

lart inserted in
Button Islands,
nserted on any
overy. May 21,
taken together,

for 28 miles.

id. The island

The people

straight black
ermanently in*

lat. ir29'N.,
° '57'.

nsists of small
water in the

centre. Though it is thickly covered with tri'os, not a single palm-tree was to
be seen. Like Utirik, it is cultivated, but not permanently inhabited. The
channel separating tlie two groups is 3^ miles wide, free from rocks, and of
unfathomable depth. The latitude of the channel is 11° 12', long. 169° 51'.

BIKAR (Uigar), or Dawson Iiland, is tho r i-thernmost of the islands
hitherto considered as belonging to tho Ilatak chain. Its second name is de*
rived from Cupt. Marshall's chart. Uigar, from the statement of a niitivo to
Kotzebue, is triangular in shape, consisting, for the most part, of reefs, and
contains only three small islands, on the eastern reef, and all overgrown with
trees, but no cocoa-nut trees. Tliero is a trading station upon the southern
island, and a passage for small craft into the lagoon exists through the western
reefs, but is dangerous on account of the rapidity of the tidal streams. Tho
natives come here to catch turtle and sea-fowl. The southern island is in lat,
12° 14' N., long. 170° 15' E.

TaODgi, or Smyth, or Oaspar Rico Islands, tho S.W. ex' iino of which is
in lat. 14° 31' N., long. 1C9' 1' K., is nn uninhabited group, included by Dr.
Guliek among the Marshall Islands. But as it is so isolated to tlio northward,
it will bo described in the next Chapter.

Captain Moore, of the Morning Star, says : — The two chains, Eatak and
Ralik (meaning East and West), might be regarded somewhat in the light of
a large town, with alleys, streets, and avenues running through it, the in-
habitants passing ond repassing, engaged in like occupotions, seeking the same
amusements, and governed by tho same laws. A great uniformity of character
is observed.

That space of ocean comprehended between the two chains, and stretching
from the Bonham Islands, on the South, to the Eimski-Korsakoff (Rongcrik)
on the North, we will call the " lladak Sea." This sea, 300 miles long, and
100 miles broad, has been, as yet, but partially explored, and in which it is
supposed there exist dangers of a formidable character. How far this may bo
true of the southern portion I am unable to say ; but, having made a cautious
survey of the northern arm, I am prepared to believe that navigation is en-
dangered more by conflicting currents than by labyrinthine reefs. As may
be supposed, among so many islands, there is no regularity in the set of the
cm-rent.

The BALIK CHAIN runs parallel to the Ratak chain just described, and ex-
tends to the same parallel of latitude. The character of the separate groups com-
posing it appears to be the same, and the inhabitants of each are acquainted
with each other. There has been considerable confusion in the nomenclature ;
but with a view to including the earlier with the later decisions, the names as
formerly connected with each other will be given where they ditfer from Dr.
Culick's arrangement, which will be followed here.

l^orth Facific, 6 o

^'U..iiLlJ.UUIIH<a

962

THE MARSHALL ARCHIPELAGO.

!i!

Tlic sixteen groups which compose the Ralik chain, commencing from the
northernmost, are—Bikini, Rongelab, Rongcrik, Ailinginae, Wottho, Ujae,
Lae, Mentschikoff, Namu, Lib, Jabwat, Odia, Jaluit, Kili, Namorik, and Ebon.

BONQELAB (Bigini), or Pescadore Islands.— On September 3, 1 767, Capt.
Wallis discovered two islands, about 35 miles apart, which he supposed to be
the Pescadores placed on Anson's chart; but, from some vagueness in his
positions, they could not be well identified. Capt. Kotzebue, in his second
voyage, made the matter more clear by the discovery of three groups, of which
the easternmost he supposes to be the group in question, and says its native
name is Bigini ; but Dr. Gulick applies this name to the Eschscholtz or West
group. According to Kotzebuc, it is a group of low, thickly-wooded, coral
islands, of pleasant aspect, forming, as usual, a lagoon, the greatest length,
N.N.E. and S.S.W., being 16 mUes.

Capt. Hudson, of the U.S. ship Peacock, says it is of a triangular shape, and
has on its :"eef several islets and some sand-spits ; the former are covered with
a few low bushes, but it has no cocoa-nut or pandanus trees, and affords nothing
but the pearl-oyster and turtles in the season. It had no inhabitants, but Dr.
Gulick says that it now has about 120 inhabitants.

The lagoon is stated to be free from dangers, and can be entered by a pas-
sage, 9 miles wide, on its S.W. side. There is also a narrow pass at the
N.W. extreme. Anchorage will be found in the N.E. corner. The South end
of Enyvertok, the southern island, is in lat. 11° 16' N., long. 167" 43' E.

BONOERIE (lladokala), or Rimski-Korsukoff Islands, is the second of the
three groups discovered by Kotzebue, who named it after his second lieutenant,
including with them Ailinginae to the S.W. The U.S. Exploring ship Pea-
cock examined it, but could not effect a landing, on account of the surf. Al-
though a few persons were seen on it, yet there was no appearance of perma
nent inhabitants ; it seemed to be without any vegetable productions capable
of sustaining life.

It consists of the usual reef encircling a lagoon, with several small low
islands, principally on the eastern side. It is 36 miles in extent, N.E. by N.
and S.W. by S., and from 3 to 20 miles broad, its eastern side forming a deep
bay. There is a wide entrance to the lagoon on the South side, with a depth
of 9 fathoms, westward of Rongelappelap Island, the S.E. island of the group,
and there are several other passages. That to be preferred carries 10 fathoms
water between Gogan and Enybarber Islands, in lat. IP 31' N. There are
two good anchorages westward of Rongelap Island, in lat. 1 1" 23', on either
side of a projecting spit of sand; also in 6 to 9 fathoms, N.W. of Po'igelap-
pelap. The latter island is planted with cocoa-nuts, but has few iuhabitouts ;
its West point is in lat. IT 14^' N., long. 166° 59' E.

AILINGINAE, 12 miles S.W. of Rongcrik, is 15 miles long, East and West,
by 4 miles wide, and is uninhabited. The lagoon is shallow, and abounds with
fish. There are a few cocoa-nut trees on the western islands; the eastern

BIKINI—WOTTHO.

963

icing from the

VVottho, Ujae,

rik, and Ebon.

3, 17G7, Ciipt.

supposed to be

guene68 in his

!, in his second

roups, of which

says its native

scholtz or West

y-wooded, coral

greatest length.

ular shape, and
are covered with
d affords nothing
abitauts, but Dr.

itered by a pas-

rrow pass at the

, The South end

167" 43' E.

the second of the

second lieutenant,

ploring ship Fea-

of the surf. Al-

earance of per ma

reductions capable

several small low

stent, N.E. by N.

ide forming a deep

bide, with a depth

sland of the group,

carries 10 fathoms

or N. There are

11" 23', on either

'i.W. of Pr>'.igelap-

as few inhabitants ;

mg, East and West,
f, and abounds with
slands; the eastern

islands are said to produce iron-wood. Knox Island, at its S.E. end, is in
lat. IPS' N.Jong. 166" 35' E.

BIKINI fUdia-MilaiJ, or Eschscholtz Islands, is the westernmost of these
groups, and was named by Kotzebue, in October, 1825, after the naturalist of
his expedition. He saw only the western part of the group, which he placed
in lat. 11° 40' N., long. 165" 24' 25" E. Capt. Chramtschenko also saw only
its western portion. " Next day we came up with an island, named by the
charts Eschscholtz Island. At noon, December 19th, 1858, we were close in-
shore, in lat. 11° 33' N., long. 165° 37' E. Could see twelve islands lying in
an East and West direction. We, being about the centre, stood for a channel
3 miles ii width between two islands. On getting near we could see the
bottom stretching across ; sent a boat to sound, found 1 1 fathoms, and sailed
over. We tacked and stood out, speaking a canoe on our way, with a chief
on board, who informed us that the name of the group was Bigini. We cleared
the western extremity at sunset, wliich is a circular reef. This part is very
dangerous, as all tho adjoining islets are small and very low, some of them
having only a few bushes. I noticed one peculiarity in this group ; tho bars
between the islands and shoals inside arc more sunken than any we have seen
heretofore, witli several deep channels into the lagoon. They are a very fine
race of people, if tlmsc in the canoe were a fair specimen."

Tho Noith side of this atoll, which is about 18 miles in extent. East and
West, is submerged to a considerable depth ; but at the South side there is
a wide passage through the reef, carrying from 11 to 12 fathoms water. The
islands are unproductive, and inhabited bj about 30 people.

WOTTHO, or Shanz Islands, a group of thirteen islands, were discovered
May 30, 1835, by Capt. Shanz (or Schantz), of the Russian Navy, in tho impe-
rial ship America, on her passage from I'ort Jackson to Kamchatka.* It con-
sists of a triangular reef with numprous small islands, enclosing a lagoon,
together extending 18 miles, N.N.W. and S.S.E., and from 4 to 12 miles
broad. The population amounted to about 40. The lagoon is accessible to
small vessels by a 4-fathoms pass on its West side, bctwec Onibelim and
Eirek Islands, in lat. 9^ 57'. Some rocks obstruct this pasv .ge, but they may
be avoided by keeping nearer to Ombeliin, the northern island. The northern
pass is full of rocks, and should bo avoided. The anchorage is off the S.W.
side of Wottho Island, the N.E. island of the group. The centre of Wottho
Island is in lat. 10° 11' N., long. 16G° 6" E. Mr. Milne, of the schooner
Jimatas, says the current runs strongly to the westward near these islands.

There was formerly considerable confusion in the hydrograj)liy of the groups
south-eastward of Wottho, arising out of the imperfect descriptions and vague

• Another announcement near this is Kahahala Inland, from whaler jcport, in lat.
10' 5' K., long. 166* 45' E. It is most likely the Bamo ;i3 Shanz Island. Anothor whiUer
ftunouncei a gri>up of islaiuh in lat. 9° 1' N., long. 161° 40' E.

964

THE MARSHALL ARCHIPELAGO.

■I

1 1

positions assigned by different discoverers. Later observations have, however,
cleared up these discrepancies, though it is somewhat difficult to reconcile the
yarions groups, as at present known, with the former very imperfect descrip-
tions.

TJJAE, or Catharine Inlands, the western of these gi'oups, is formed by an
extensive reef, 32 miles long, N.W. by N. and S.E. by S., and from 4 to 10
miles wide, enclosing a lagoon. They lie in the track of vessels between Aus-
tralia or New Zealand and China. Ujae and Enylameej, the southern and
northern islands, are considered to be the finest of the Marshall group, pro-
ducing everything that can be grown upon any of the other islands. The in-
habitants number about 300.

There are two ship passages on the West side into the lagoon ; that recom-
mended for entering is in about lat. 9=" N., formed by sunken reefs situated 4
miles northward of Bock Island ; this pass carries from !3 to 6 fathoms water,
with room to work through. The eastern side of the lagoon is moderately clear
cf shoals, but the West side is full of dangers. If bound for the anchorage off
Ujas, it is advisable to follow the eastern reef about 1 mile distant, and not to
approach Ujae under a depth of 5 fathoms. The pass South of Bock Island is
deep, and can be used when leaving. The West end of Ujae is in latitude
b" 48' N., long. 166^ 8 E., but observations by the officers of tlie U.S. ship
Essex, 1884, place it in long, 165" 41' 53" E. Tlie Serpent Group, seen by
Copt. Hammond, R.N., in ll.M.S. Serpent, in lat. 9^ 14' N., long. 166" 2' E.,
were probably the North end of Ujae.

LAE, or Brown hfands, is a discovery in the missionary ship Morning Star,
December, 1858. licr commander, Capt. J. W. Brown, thus describes it : —
•'Sunday morning, the 19th, was surprised at seeing land very near ahead, as
none is shown in my charts in that place. On coming up with it, found it to
be a group of fourteen islands', encircling three sides of a beautiful lagoon, the
western part being protected by a reef, with a small channel. A canoe camo
off, having two men on board. I gave them some presents, asked the name of
the group, which is Lai or Eiii, and left thi>'i little gem. The canoe brought
off some very fine bread-fruit and cocoa-nuts."

These islands lie close together upon a amvM reef about miles in diameter,
having a narrow passage into the lagoon from the westward, in which the
depth is 2 fathoms, but vessels can anchor off the entrance in 4 fathoms. Some
shoals lie about 1 cable S.W. of the anchorage. The inhabitants number about
250. Lac Island, at the S.E. eno:, is in lat. %" bT N., long. 16G= 27' E.

MENSCHIKOFF ISLANDS.— This group of islands, the South extreme of
which is in lat. 8" 42' N., long. 167" 47' E., encloses the largest lagoon in the
Marshall Archipelago, the AVest side extending 68 miles, N.W. | W. and
S.E. J E., its greatest breadth being 18 iiiiles. Notwithstanding its CYtent,
the inhabitants number only about 200. Except on Kwajalein at the South
extreme, and the islands situated on the N.E. of the Ailing-Jappel group, there

MENSCHIKOFF ISLANDS— LIB ISLA.ND— NAMU.

965

tions have, however,
cult to reconcile the
y imperfect descrip-

)8, is formed by an
, and from 4 to 10
essels between Aus-
j, the southern and
[arsliall group, pro-
ir islands. The in-

agoon ; that recom-
en reefs situated 4
o 6 fathoms water,
is moderately clear
)r the anchorage off
■■ distant, and not to
.\\ of Bock Island is
Ujae is in latitude
s of the U.S. ship
nt Group, seen by
., long. 166° 2' E.,

ship Morning Star,
us describes it : —
cry near ahead, as
with it, found it to
auliful lagoon, the
A canoe came
asked the name of
he canoe brought

miles in di.ameter,
rd, in which the

4 fathoms. Some
nts number about

66= 27' E.
South extreme of
ijest lagoon in the
iV.W. i VV. and
nding its extent,
^h\ at the South
ppel group, there

are few cocoa-nut trees upon these islands, and the natives visit them only for
curing fish. The islands on the N.W. side are almost destitute of trees. The
South end of Kwajalein Island is in lat. 8° 41' N., long. 167° 46i' E. The
West point of Ebadon, the N.W. island, is in lat. 9° 25' N., long. 167° ^' E.

This woidd appear to be the three groups of islands discovered by the
English ship Ocean, in 1804, the northern part being named Catharine, the
central part Lydui, and the southern part Margaretta, the latter being identical
with the Paterson Islands of the brig Elizabeth, in 1809. These islands also
exactly agree with the islands Kwadelen, Lileb, and Namou, on Kotzcbuc's
chart.

There arc twenty-five passages into the lagoon, but six only of these can be
considered as ship channels. The South pass, 4 miles N.W. of Kwajalein,
carries a depth of 10 fathoms. Upon the eastern side, the pass South of
Bigedj Island, in lat. 8° 52', has 7 fathoms ; upon the North side, the North
pass, eastward of Mellu Islands, has 10 fiithoms ; upon the West side, the
pass West of Eru Island, in lat. U" 10', carries 9 fathoms, and is considered a
good pass for leaving the lagoon ; the passage West of Onemak Island, in lat.
9° 8', carries 20 fathoms, and is the best when bound for Ailing-Jappel.

The northern part of the lagoon is shallower than the southern. Anchorage
can be obtained in it, off Kwajalein, in 15 to 7 fathoms; also westward of
Meek Island, but the water here shoal? suddenly. ietween Gagan and
Namtui-Eoj, at the N.E. end, anchorage may be taken up, but off Namtui
vessels should not anchor in less than 5 fathoms, and be prepared to leave by
the North pass in the event of fresh southerly winds, which render that an-
chorage unsafe. Outside the lagoon, anchorage will be found off Eru Island,
in 7 fathoms, also off Onemak in not less than 5 fathoms ; all other places are
too steep. It is high water, on full and change, at 4'' ; springs rise 5 J ft.

LIB ISLAND is '21 miles in extent. East and West, triangular in shape,
with reefs extending three-quarters of a mile from the South and East sides,
1 i mile from the North side, and about 2 cables from the West side. The
centre is of lower elevation than the coast-line ; the soil is fertile, and there are
about 50 inhabitants. There is no anchorage aro\md the island. Its centre is
in lat. 8° 19' N., long. 167° 28' E.

Lib is most probably the Tebut Island of Kotzebue's chart, and the Priu'
cessn Island of Captain Dennet, of the Britannia, in lat. 8° 20' N., long.
167° 30' E., which was also seen by Capt. Ilagemcistcr. It was seen by Capt.
Dunn, of the barque Dragon, in 1856, It was also seen by Capt. Moore, in
ihc Morning Star. He says : — "Going aloft, I perceived that wc were ap-
proaching a compact, small coral island, not more than 1 i mile in circum-
ference. We landed on the West side. There were 23 inh.ibitants, including
men, women, and children. It was covered with a thick growth of pandanus.
And a few low cocoa-nut trees."

NAMU, Ailinylabelub, or Musqulllo hlanda. — The latter name was given

•M;

w^^-c:^-

! I

\l : :i

lit

Mifi

966

THE MARSHALL ARCHIPELAGO.

liil

i .

by Cnptain Bond, who saw them the day after his making the Baring Islands,
December 16, 1792. They arc all well wooded, and inhabited, but are very
low and dangerous, and in thick weather a ship might run on the reef "ithout
seeing the land. Capt. Chramtschenko discovered that the group encloses two
lagoons, separated by a reef. At a short distance it might be taken for two
groups. Together they extend 36 miles, N.W. by W. and S.E. by E., the
greater number of islands being situated around the southern end. Bock
Island, on the western edge of the reef separating the lagoons, is in lat.
7° 59' N., long. 163° 11' E. There are about 150 inhabitants. The name of
Lambert was given to the northernmost portion, and lioss to the southern, by
Capt. Dennet, of the Britannia.

The largest island, named Musseket, lies on the N.E. side of the South la-
goon, the passage into that lagjon being upon the S.W. side, about 4 miles
westward of Leuen, the southern island ; there is anchorage southward of the
West point of this island. The islands Namu and Madaamet, at the N.W.
extreme, are sparsely covered with cocoa-nut trees. There is anchorage west-
ward of the former, which is in lat. 8" 11' N., long. 167° 58' E.

Great caution must be observed when passing to leeward of the reefs, in
consequence of the easterly set, and during May to September breakers are
rarely seen upon the reefs on the Ice side of the southern lagoon.

ODIA, or Elmore Islands. — This group was named by the Elizabeth, in her
passage from Port Jackson to China. The discoverer saw two small islands,
but Capt. Chramtschenko found that it consists of a large island and nearly
twenty smaller ones, named Odia by the natives. They are connected by coral
reefs, extending 28 miles, N.E. and S.W., and 15 miles in greatest breadth,
and are sometimes called Chramtschenh) Islands. On the charts by Kotzebuc
it is called Ilelul. There are about 200 inhabitants.

The lagoon, which contains many reefs, can be entered by five passages.
The South pass, in lat. 7° 14', is deep, and there is anchorage in it off a large
house, westward of Enyebing Island, in 5 fathoms. This is the best passage,
and in approaching from the westward it opens out when bearing N.E. by N.
A village stands on its East side. With winds from the eastward there is
anchorage outside the lagoon, in 10 to 12 fathoms, sheltered by Wotja Island,
the western island. Airek, the southern island, is in lat. 7° 12^' N., long.
168° 53' E., and there is anchorage off it in the lagoon.

JABWAT ISLAND is situated 9 miles, N. i W., from Jib Island, the
northernmost of Elmore Islands, from which it can be seen. It is tlirec-
quarters of a mile long, N.N.W. and S.S.E., by a quarter of a mile wide. It
is surrounded by reefs, extending a quarter of a mile from the South and West
sides, and three-quarters of a mile from the North and N.E. sides. There are
but few inhabitants. It is in lat. 7° 43' N., long. 169° 4i' E.

JALTJIT, or Bonham Islands. — The brig Elizabeth discovered, in 1809, "a
Tory extensive group of islands, joined together by low sand (coral ?) banks."

JALUIT— KILL

967

They were called G. Bonham'a Island, Capts. Duperrey and Chramtschenko
examined them ; the former called the northern portion Coquille Islands, and
the southern part Elizabeth Islands, from the ships which discovered them.

This group is 32 miles in extent, N.N.W. and S.S.E., and 7 to 20 miles in
width, consisting of four or five large islands and numerous smaller o: ".a, with
one in the enclosed lagoon. Mr. Bray states that Jaluit has become the most
important part of Micronesia. Upon the North point of Jabor, or Bonham
Island, is a large trading settlement, whence large quantities of coral, &c., are
shipped to Europe. This is a good place for a ship to recruit, as there is
plenty of good water, and pigs, fowls, bread-fruit, and cocoa-nuts may be ob-
tained from the natives, and occasionally ship's provisions from the traders.
The German Government has also established a coaling station here for men-
of-war. In 1882 the population of the group numbered about 700.

The lagoon appears to contain raoi-e coral shoals than the lagoons of the
other groups, necessitating very cautious navigation. There are four good
passages into it on the East side, and one on the West. The S.E. or Barrosa
Passage is the best, being short, and having 8 or 9 fathoms water, close round
the North end of Jabor Island. Sailing vessels go out by the S.W. passage,
bearing S.W. f W. from the anchorage off the trading station ; it is broad
and deep, but there is a sharp turn iu it, and a strong current. There are also
three good passages near each other, to the N.N.W. of the settlement.

When approaching this group from the southward, they appear as one long
low island, the gaps in the vegetation being difficult to distinguish. To enter
by the S.E. entrance, it is advisable to make the South extreme of the islands,
and to steer N.E. by N. along the reef, until the settlement is seen, bearing
W.S.W. The entrance will not be recognised until close in, the sea appa-
rently breaking right across it, and it is recommended to take a pilot. The
channel is less than half a cable in width, and the current sets across it in a
N. by W. direction, running with great strength near the time of spring tides.

On rounding the North end of Jabor Island, good anchorage will be found
off the settlement, in 8 to 19 fathoms, sandy bottom; that recommended is
with the trading station bearing N.E. by N. f N., distant 3 cables. There
are two dangerous patches of coral in the anchorage, one small patch of 3
fathoms nearly in the centre, and another awash at low water nearer the shore.
There is a beacon on the rock in the middle of the anchorage. The southern-
most of three piers is the most convenient for landing. The North end of
Jabor Island is in lat. 5° 55' N., long. 169° 39' E.

The North shoal in Jaluit anchorage is now marked by a small buoy ; tho
southern shoal has a small stick on it, and dries at low water springs ; both
shoals are easy to see. — H.M.S. Espiegle, 1883.

KILI {NamureckJ, or Hunter Island. — This island was first seen by Capt.
Dcnnet. It extends 2^ miles, E.S.E. and W.N.W., and is in lat. 6° 42' N.,
long. 169° 9' E. It is uninhabited, and landing is rarely practicable.

968

THE MARSHALL ARCHIPELAGO.

! ; I

: 1

HAMOBIE, or Daring Islands, were discovered by Captain Bond, in the
Soyal Admiral, December 15, 1792, and were named after the chairman of the
court of directors of the East India Company. They are two in number, lying
on a coral reef about 5 miles in diameter, and enclosing a lagoon only accessi-
ble to boats at high water. There is no anchorage here. The islands are fiat
and wooded, and contain about 300 inhabitants. There are two German
trading stations here, where cocoa-nuts, bread-fruit, bananas, and taro can be
obtained. The S.W. point is in lat. 5° 36' N., long. 168° 6' E.

EBOIT, Boston, or Covell Islands, — From information given by Captain
Duperrey, these islands were discovered May 25, 1 824, by nn American vessel,
under Captain George Ray, who called them Boston Islands. The name of
Covell (or Cowell) is from an American commander, of the barque Alliance,
who thought them a new discovery in 1831. They have been called Linnet
Islands by a whale ship, and it is also oalled the Fourteen Island Group. In
1845 a vessel was attacked outside the reef by three proas carrying 150 men,
and was nearly taken. They are the southernmost of the Ralik chain, and were
examined by Lieut. Tanner, U.S. ship Narragansett, in 1872.

The group consists of twenty-one well-wooded islands, lying on a reef about
25 miles in circumference, and is thickly inhabited by an able-bodied race of
men, who are of a light copper complexion, and about 1,200 in number.
Ebon Island, the southern and largest, is 6 miles long, and near its S.W. end
are the head-quarters of the Micronesiau mission. It is also stated to be the
chief station of the cocoa-nut oil trade. Trading vessels from Sydney, N.S.W.,
occasionally call here, and the mission schooner comes here annually from
Honolulu. The water is bad, and rain-water is collected for domestic purposes.
Wood, fowls, pigs, fish, cocoa-nuts, &c., are plentiful.

The only entrance to the lagoon is on the S.W. side, between the second
and third islets to the N.W. of the S.W. end of Ebon, the northern islet
being called Mej, and the southern Jurij ; as this is the only break in the
reef, the channel is not readily mistaken. This passage is narrow and crooked,
with strong tides running 3 to 7 knots on the ebb, making it unsafe for largo
vessels except at slack water ; the least depth is 9 fathoms, A stranger should
employ a pilot.

Having entered the lagoon the navigation is simple, occasional shoal patches
being easily avoided, with u bright sun. There is good anchorage in any part,
the depth varying from 5 to 28 fathoms. The Narragansett anchored in 15
fathoms, sand and coral, with the S.W. point of Ebon bearing S.W. by S.,
and the North end of Jurij N.W. i W. It is high water, on full and change,
at 4'' 45"" ; the rise is 6 feet.

The centre of the atoll is in lat. 4° 37' 26" N., long. 168° 43' 31" E. Mej
Islet is in lat. 4° 36' 34", long. 168° 41' 42". Eube, the S.W. end of Ebon
Island, is in lat. 4° 36' 26", long. 168^ 42' 10". ,

ENIWETOK— UJILONG.

9C9

ptnin Bond, in the
ho chairman of the

in number, lying
soon only accessi-
"he islands are flat

are two German
< and tare can be
E.

jiven by Captain
American vessel,
'• The name of
barque Alliance,
en called Linnez
land Group. In
irrying 150 men,
c chain, and were

f on a reef about
2-bodied race of
200 in number.
Jr its S.W. end
stated to be the
lydney, N.S.W.,
! annually from
nestio purposes.

een the second
northern islet
y break in the
w and crooked,
msafe for large
stranger should

1 shoal patches
?e in any part,
uchored in 15
r S.W. by S.,
iU and change,

31" E. Mej
end of Ebon

ENIWETOK, or Brown Group, was discovered by Capt. Thos. Butler, in
the ship Walpole, December 13, 1794. He named them Brown Range, after
the chief super-cargo at Canton, and also the North island Arthur Island, and
the southern Parry Island. They were more minutely examined by Captain
Fearn, in the snow Hunter, November 17, 1798, who named two other islands
East and West Danger Islands. He says : — Parry Island is not only the
southernmost of Brown's Range, but the eastern boundary of a most dangerous
and extensive line of keys or shoals, which occupy more than half a degree of
longitude, without a single apparent passage through which a stranger should
attempt to go. Capt. Fearn's positions are identical with Capt. Butler's, but
both are 28' too far East.

Dr. GuUck includes them in the Ralik chain of the Marshall Islands, although
so fur removed from them, and calls it by the first name. The few natives, only
30 or 40 in number, speak the Marshall Islands language.

They were surveyed, by Liitke, in November, 1827. He ran along the coral
reef forming its North and West sides for two days ; on the reef are about
thirty low islands uinl reefs, enclosing a lagoon. It is a nearly circular atoll,
20 miles in diameter North and South, and 26 miles East and West. Arthur
Island is in lat, IT 40' N., long. 162=' 15' E.; the West extreme of the atoll
in lat. 11° 30', long. 162° 1'; and Parry Island in lat. 11° 21', long. 162" 25'.

UJILONO, Arrecifoa, Casohos, or Providence Islands. — On the early Spanish
charts two groups, under the names of Arrecifos and Casobos or Cas lobas,
were shown hereabout ; but their existence was not verified till 1811, vhen
the ship Providence discovered a group, to which the name of the ship was
applied. Dr. Gulick. who calls the native name Ujilong, says that there is but
one reef here, so it must include the two older notices. He says the popula-
tion of Ujilong is 1,000. It was visited in 1864 by Captain James, in the
missionary ship Morning Star, who states that, although to the westward of
the Ralik chain, the natives speak the Marshall Islands dialect. It was also
visited by the Dundonald, Captain Kewley, in 1867; he speaks of the largo
quantity of cocoa-nuts.

This group, consisting of thirteen islands and several sand kays, extends 24
miles, E.S.E. and W.N.W., and 7 or 8 miles in breadth, the reef enclosing a
lagoon studded with coral patches. The islands are cultivated by a trading
firm, whose station is on Uyelang, the S.E. island. There ore two passages
into the lagoon, both on the South side. Hayes or Wide Pass, the western,
lies between two islets, and is the better ; it has 4 fathoms in it, and also a
shoal of 2^ fathoms. Anchorage may be obtained just inside, in 18 fathoms,
near the West islet, or 4 miles to the eastward, in 1 1 fathoms. The eastern
passage, 6^ miles to E.S.E., is narrow, and has only 2^ fathoms water in it.

There is no anchorage outside the lagoon. Vessels visiting the trading
Iforth Pacific. 6 H

': 1

970

THE CAROLINE AUCIIIPELAGO.

station anchor in 9 to 10 fathoms, about 3 cables from the reef off the eastern
houses on Uyelang. The N.E. end of Uyelang is in lat. 9° 43' N., long.
161" 19' B.

THE CAROLINE ARCHIPELAGO.

This extensive range of islands was, until recent times, comparatively un-
known. This ignorance, and the terrible accounts of their dangerous character
given by various navigators who had crossed the chain, caused them to be the
subject of the greatest drfiad to all commanders sailing in their vicinity. All
these fears and doubts have, like most others of their kind, been dispelled by
the more exact knowledge which modern science gives of the actual character
of the subjects it is applied to. It is chiefly to the voyage of Capt. Duperrey,
in the French royal ship La Coquille, in 1823, and to the surveys of Rear-
Admiral Liitkc, of the Russian corvette La Seniavine, that we owe the greater
part of our geographical knowledge of these islands.

It has been thought that the first notice of any portion of these islands was
given by Diego dc Roche, a Portuguese, in 1525, as the Sequeira Isles, but it
is probable that his discovery was to the westward of the group. The same
may be said of the Reyes Islands, discovered by Alvaro de Saavcdra, in 1528.
The first whose claims have any weight are Villalobos and Miguel Lopez de
Legaspi ; the first in 1543, the second in 1565, but neither of their discoveries
can with certainty be recognised. Tue celebrated Sir Francis Drake also dis-
covered a portion of the range, September 30, 1579. The next in order is
Lorenzo de Baretto, who, in 1595, saw a large inhabited island in the group.

In 1686 the Spanish admiral, Don Francisco Lazeano, discovered a large
island, to which he gave the name of Carolina, in honour of the consort of the
reigning king, Charles II., but which island it is not now known. It gives the
name to the archipelago. The name of the Neiu Philippines has also been
applied, but that has long been in disuse.

Among the more complete early accounts of the Carolines is that by the
Jesuit padre, Juan Antonio Cantova, who visited several of the islands in 1721,
and during bis second voyage thither, in 1731, was killed at the Island Mogmog.
Several navigators have visited portions since that time, as related in the sub-
sequent particulars ; but, as stated in the first instance, the chief sources of
information are the works of LUtke and Duperrey.

The Caroline Islands, according to Krusenstern and Ltitke, extend from the
Pelew Islands on the West, to Ualan on the East, and from 2° to 12° North
latitude. But this distinction is somewhat arbitrary. The natives of the
Marshall Archipelago belong to the same race, so that the proposition of Dr.
Chamisso to include all these islands in the single denomination of the Marianas
is not without weight. But if it be necessary to adopt any divisions, it would
be necessary to distinguish that part of the Carolines extending from the Mort-

THE CAROLINE ARCHIPELAGO.

971

lock to the Ouluthy group, which nlone is inhabited by a nautical and com-
mercial people. Those more East or West do not participate in this distinction.

The information collected by the missionaries, and the charts drawn up by
them from native reports, were for nearly a century the only guides to navi-
gators. But they could neither determine their relative sizes nor positions ; so
that many islands scarcely visible on the surface of the ocean, having a name
as well as the larger groups, were placed as if miles in extent, and groups of
ten or fifteen would occupy the extent of several degrees ; this made the charts
an inextricable labyrinth. Then the commanders who crossed the line of the
archipelago in di£Pcrent directions, instead of meeting with entire archipelagoes,
were astonished to find either no indications of land, or else some small spot
to which they were delighted to apply some favourite name, which then took
their places in the chart, without superseding the older ones. The native
names also are frequently repeated, and disfigured both by the different pro-
nunciation in various parts of the group, and by different systems of ortho-
graphy. Such a chaos arose from all this, that any elucidation became a hope-
less task. Such was the state of their geography before the Coquille and
Siniavine cleared up all doubts, and declared their real character and number.

Among the later authors who have elucidated the geography of the archipe-
lago in a more complete manner, may be enumerated Capt. Cheyne, commander
of the Naiad, and the I?ev. Dr. L. II. Gulick, of the Hawaiian mission.

The Caroline Islands consist of forty-eight groups, forty-three of which are
coral atolls, and five of them are basaltic surrounded by fringing coral reefs.
These coral islands are immensely populous for their area. Capt. Liitke con-
sidered that the total length of these islands would not exceed 100 n\iles, and
as most of them do not exceed 200 yards in breadth, the entire areu of the
habitable portion of the atolls would not be more than 15 square miies. Dr.
Gulick estimates the area of the entire archipelago as 877 square miles, and
the number of people in 1860 as 18,000, but by the latest estimates of the
missionaries they are about double this. They are claimed as a Spanish posses-
sion, but it ii n erely nominal, and in August, 1885, the German gimboat litis
took possession of Yap, thus giving rise to a dispute with Spain.

The inhabitants of all these islands are scions from the same stock. Chamisso
considers them as the same as all the Malay tribes peopling eastern Polynesia.
The works of Chamisso, the notices of Dr. Mertens on the people, of Captain
Liitke, Kotzebue, and others, may be consulted with great interest on these
and similar points.*

Dr. Gulick says that many different dialects are spoken on its widely sepa-
rated islands, though they are evidently dialects of the same mother tongue,

* Among more recent publications we may mention the valiinblo work by Dr. A. Mosaon,
entitled " Los Folyn^iens, leur Originc, leura Migrations, leur Lungage," ptiblishod in
four large volames, Paris, 1880 — 1884, io wbich these questions ore thoroughly discussed.

i ;

I'y

'li

072

THE CAROLINE ARCHIPELA.aO.

nnd are strongly allied to the Marshall Islands dialect, and even to the language
spoken on the Qilbcrt Islands.

The character of the natives has been variously represented, and caution
should be exercised when holding intercourse with them, as several instances
of.treachery have been recorded. Of late years, intercourse with the mission-
aries and traders has made them more trustworthy.

Climate. — We have no general account of the winds nnd weather of the
whole archipelago, and from the fact that it lies in the belt of doldrums, or
equatorial calms, there is considerable difRculty in defining the conditions of
the weather in any particular season. Admiral Kruscnstern says : — But wc
learn from the relations of several navigators that the N.E. winds are not the
prevailing winds, which is confirmed by the fact that the inhabitants of several
of the western islands have been carried in their canoes towards the I'^ast and
N.E., a proof that during a portion of the year the winds blow from the West.
The Pelew Islands are, as is known, in the limits of the L^onsoons, which may
extend to the meridian of the Mariana Islands, and even some degrees beyond
that, up to the point where they are arrested by the regular trade winds.
This last part seems to be proved by the circumstance that the inhabitants of
the Carolines, who perform their annual voyages from Lamurek to Guahan,
situated several degrees to the East of that island, generally embark, from
what M. Chamisso states, in April, returning in May or June ; that is, they start
towards the termination of the eastern monsoon, probably that they may not
have long to wait for the return of the westerly monsoon, with which they re-
turn in May or June, when this monsoon is found to be in its greatest strength.
M. Chamisso draws a conclusion from this opposite to that which M. Krusen-
stem does. He says that the islanders return in May or June, before the
westerly winds set in ; however, it is known that the westerly monsoon never
comes later than the month of May.

The best account of the weather, &c., at Fonapi appeared in the American
Journal of Science, from the pen of Dr. Oulick. The following is extracted
from that account : — No island of the whole range, not even of Micronesia
(which includes the Gilbert, Marshall, Caroline, and Mariana Islands), has yet
been made a point for accurate meteorological observations, which will enhance
the value of records on Fonapi.

" The following meteorological averages, deduced by Mrs. QuHck from her
daily observations, extending through a period of three years, 1853—1855,
will speak for themselves of the more important topics connected with climate.
It is to be regretted that the want of necessary appliances has rendered these
observations much less extensive through the whole field of meteorology than
we would gladly have made them.

" Average for three years : Temperature. — Mean at sunrise, 78°.28 ; mean
nt noon, 83°.31; mean at sunset, 79°.27; maximum, 89°; minimum, 70°; range,
19°; mean, 80°.28.

THE CAROLINE AUCHIPELAOO.

to tlic language

od, and caution
iCTcral instances
ith the mission-
weather of the
of doldrums, or
ic conditions of
says : — But we
nds are not the
itiints of several
ds the East and
from the West.
)on8, which may
degrees beyond
lar trade winds,
e inhabitants of
rek to Guahan,
y embark, from
that is, they start
t they may not
a which they re-
reatest strength,
liich M. Kiusen-
June, be/ore the
' monsoon never

In the American
ing is extracted
n of Micronesia
Islands), has yet
ioh will enhance

!, 78<'.28; mean
lum, 70°; range.

" There ore few who will not remark the astonishing uniformity of tempera-
ture exhibited in the preceding summary. It ia to be questioned whether
there exists a scries of observations exhibiting as great a uniformity in any
part of our globe. The South Seas, generally notorious as they are for salu-
brious equability of temperature, have probably not yet presented anything
equal to this. ,

" The mean daily range is about 6".

«' The mean difference of successive days is about 1°.

" The utmost range of the thermometer, during three years, wns from 89°
to 70°, only 19".

" The mean temperature of the throe years was SC.SS.

" It should be remarked that the observations till May, 1853, were made in a
most peculiarly unfavourable locality, which greatly exaggerated and distorted
the thermometric conditions. The remaining observations were made from a
locality such as would always be sought for a residence, and will without the
slightest difficulty be found in every part of Ponapi. By these it appears that
the yearly mean is about 80°.d0 ; the utmost range about 12°; the mean at
7 a.m., about 78°; at noon, about 85°; and at 9 p.m., about 79°.50.

" Facts to be stated in connection with reriiarks on the winds and weather,
will sufficiently account for this singular equability, particularly when it is
remembered what an immense expanse of ocean surrounds all these Microne-
sian Islands."

Winds. — The following Table shows the distribution of the winds in the
different months of 1854: —

Months.

January . .
February
March , .
April , . . .
May , , . .
June . , . ,

"gf

•g S

w if

•"•e

Months.

July

August,. .,
September
October . .
November
December

-6

•S.S

•ss

'^■^

s-e

Q 3

3
14

The predominating winds are the N.E. trades. During the northern winter,
u'hile the sun is in southern declination, and while, consequently, the whole
system of aerial currents is drawn to the South, the island is fully exposed to
their action. This period usually lasts from December to May, inclusive ;

I !

I :8

iil

'l!

.*'i -li

111!

074

THE CAROLINE ARCHIPELAGO.

though there is much difference in different seasons. At times the trades do
not set in till January, and again they begin to blow steadily as early as No-
vember, and they cease blowing at any period from April till June. There are
certain seasons when they arc but faint, even during the dead of winter, as in
January and February, 1856 ; and, again, they may continually intrude them-
selves during all the summer, as in 1 856.

CuBRSNTS. — During the period when the N.E. trade is freshest, strong
westerly currents are generally experienced. From the middle of August to
the middle of November, when strong westerly winds, with heavy squalls, mny
be expected, strong easterly currents prevail.

On the subject of currents, they have been found very violent to the South
of the Pelcw I^ilands, bearing to the East, at the rate of 2 or 3 miles an hour,
particularly in the months of June, July, and August, that is, during the
strength of the S.W. monsoon. In the memoir on the currents, mention is
made of this current, as the equatorial counter current.

Gai.es. — It may be remarked that the severer class of gales are compara-
tively unknown here. The typhoons of the China i^ca, and even of the sens
North of the Marianas, about the Bonin Islands, rarely (if ever) extend to this
island. Yet once, during the youth of a few of the very oldest inhabitants
now living, a desolating wind swept over the island, so tearing up the bread-
fruit trees — the principal reliance for food — that an awful famine ensued, and
large numbers died. It would seem possible that this was a cyclone. And it
is very interesting that a similar gale produced similar results at Kusaie, or
Strong Island, 5 degrees East of Fonapi, and that, too, in the memory of the
very oldest inhabitants. May not this have been the very same erratic cyclone
that swept Ponapi ?

Weather. — Without being able to give accurate hydrometric figures, the
observations recorded regarding the general character of the days exhibit the
fact that there is much humidity, though nothing excessive. Situated just on
the southern confines of the N.E. trades, and under the northern edge of the
cloud zone that hovers over the equatorial regions between the two trade wind
Kones of the North and South hemispheres, the island is constantly exposed to
precipitations from above. Before the trade winds reach the island, they have
made their passage over thousands of miles of ocean, and have become saturated
with moisture ; so that, an soon as they impinge on the central elevations of
the island, some of which are 2,858 ft. in height, the clouds are arrested, and
showers fall ; and, as the island is but little more than 15 miles in diameter,
they readily pass over them and water the lee no less than the windward slopes.
And again, during the summer, while the trades have receded northwards, we
nre, ever and anon, shaded by the equatorial clouds, which pour their contents
most bounteously : yet wc are constantly so near the northern boundary of
this zone, that we do not experience its severer, its protracted, and unpleasant
pouring raius of weeks and months. The humidity is consequently more equa*

KUSAIE.

075

trades do
ly 08 No-
There arc
inter, as in
rudo them-

est, strong
August to
quails, mny

the South
ca an hour,
during the
mention is

e compara-
of the sens
tend to this

inhabitants
) the bread-
msucd, and
ne. And it

Kusaic, or
nory of the
iitic cyelone

figures, the
exhibit the
ated just on
edge of the
) trade wind
J exposed to
], they have
nc saturated
levations of
nested, and
n diameter,
nord slopes,
thwards, we
eir contents
boundary of
I unpleasant
more equa-

bly distributed through the year than in most tropieol regions ; yet wo speak
of the summer as the season most rainy, if not as the " rainy season." It must
be remarked, however, that the year, 1856, during which the trades were very
faint thi >ugh all their usual months, and were quite intrusive through all the
months during which they usually absent themselves, was the driest remem-
bered by the oldest inhabitants.

Of the electric phenomena, I can only report that thunder is rare and light-
ning still rarer. Thunder was heard only on twenty-eight days in three years,
nnd lightning only seen on eight days. 6o very seldom does lightning prove
destructive, that the natives have never suspected its agency, but attributed
its results to a direct visitation from their Ani or Spirits, the only gods they
reverence.

During the months of June and July, 1872, while amongst the Caroline
group, light and variable winds, with much rain, were experienced by H.M.S.
Blanche ; the current was also variable, but set generally to the eastward.

The orthoyraphy here adopted is that given by Dr. Guliek, as based upon
the system of Lcpius, established by his mission. As may be well understood,
tliere is much confusion in the early names, each voyager spelling the difficult
ative pronunciation in his own national method.

The dc8cri])tion of the archipelago begins with the easternmost, and proceeds
in a westerly direction. Great vigilance is necessary in navigating among
these groups, as there has been no connected survey, nnd some are very im-
perfectly known. The positions here given must therefore only be considered
as approximate.

KUSAIE, Ualan, or Strony Island, the easternmost, and one of the lofty
basaltic peaks of the Caroline Islands, was discovered, in 1804, by Captain
Crozer, commanding an American ship, who gave it the name Strong, after the
governor of Massachusetts. Capt. Duperrey sought for and found it in June,
1824, proving that Copt. Crozer's position was very exact, lie passed ten
days here, nnd made a minute survey of it. " The Island of Oualan," says
Captain Duperrey, " may at some future time become of great importance.
Lying in the ti-ack of vessels going from Australia to China, it offers at the
same time good ports for careenage, abundance of water, and refreshments of
different sorts."* The island was also visited by Capt. D'Urville and by Capt.
Liitke, the latter giving the following account of it : — Ualan is 24 miles in cir-
cumference, and is of volcanic formation. A break between two masses of
mountains, which extend across the island from West to East, divides it into
two unequal parts, the southern portion being more than double the extent of
the northern. On this northern portion is Mount Biiache, so named by
Duperrey, which is 1,914 ft. according to Duperrey, or 2,160 ft. according to

• Voyage de la Coquille ; et Observations sur I'llo de Oualan ou Strong, pur M. Lesson,
m^decin, &c. ; Journal de Voyages, Mai, 1825.

iiMiiwi* MiiwTfcBKnmiirfMrTif n

' li;

I »

976

THE CAROLINE ARCHIPELAGO.

Liitke, above the sea level. From its rounded summit it falls gradually on nil
sides. Oil the southern portion, Mount Crozer, 2,152 ft. high, was named after
the discoverer of the island. Its crest extends N.W. and S.E. ; the North
flank is very steep and rugged at its summit. In general this portion of the
island has many peaks, both isolated and coupled in the form of asses' ears.
One of thqse peaks, more remarkable for its regularly conical summit, and by
its position in front of Coquille Harbour, was named Mericm Monumenl by
Liitke, after his lamented naturalist.

The northern part of the island is surrounded by a coral reef, which, open-
ing before the break between the mountains, forms a port on each side of the
island ; that to the West is Coquille Harbom-, which liutke used ; that to the
East is what the islanders call Nitimolchon, and Capt. Duperrey Lele* from
the nr.me of the small island lying in its centre. The southern part is sur-
rounded by a chain of coral islets, connected by reefs, and forming on the side
towards the island a shallow lagoon, through which this part of the island may
be traversed. The chain is broken tjwards the southern part of the island,
forming a small port, named by the French. Port Lottin.

The shore, sheltered by the roof from the violence of the waves, is s\irrounded
by a broad belt of mangroves and other shrubs, forming a thick wall of ver-
dure, which at first pleoses by its singularity, but its monotony soon fatigues
the sight. This belt also, hiding the real shore, renders it difficult to determine
the exact limits of the island, and also by its nature renders it constaotly liable
to change.

In general the whole island, from the sea to the mountain tops, with the ex-
ception of the highest and most peaked summits of Mount Crozcr, is covered
with a thick and almost impassable forest. In the neighbourhood of the houses
this wood consists of bread-fruit, cocoa-nut, bananns, and other fruit trees. The
break or valley between the two ports is the only part by which you can pass
fi'om one side to the other. The distance is only 2^ miles, but the road is un-
pleasant from the marshy pools, especially after rain.

Rivulets and water-coiu^es are met with nt every step. Their number, and
the richness of the vegetation, attest the humidity of the climate, unusual in
these latitudes. It did not, however, ajipear to be unhealthy. The villages
are chiefly placed along the beaches, but arc not much seen from seaward, as
they are hidden by the coral islets and mangroves. They are all surrounded
with stone walls, separating the properties. The number of inhabitants in the
fifty small villages enumerated by Liitke amounted to 409 men and 301 women.
They were saturated with disease, introduced by the whalers, and are rapidly
on the decrease. Dr. Gulick gives the same numbers as the total population, but
in 1882 the inhabitants were said to be only 300 in number. They arc described
as gentle, amiable, and intelligent.

• " The natives do not pronounce it Lele, but Ltllft," — liitke.

■ J

KUSAIE— MACKAW REEF.

977

gradually on all
ivfts named after
.E. ; the North
portion of tho
I of asses' ears,
summit, and by
s Monnmenl by

ef, which, open-
each eide of the
sed ; that to the
rey Lelc* from
cvn part is sur-
ining on the side
if the island mav
ft of the island,

•<?s, is surrounded
ick wall of ver-
)ny Boon fatigues
;ult to determine
constimtly liable

op3, with the cx-
rozcr, is covered
ood of tlie houses
r fruit trees. The
licli you can pass
it the road is uu-

heir number, and
mate, unusual in
ly. The villages
from seaward, as
e all surrounded
nhabitants in tho
and 301 women.
I, and are rapidly
il population, but
hey arc described

liilke.

^ort Lele', Chabrol Harbour, or Pani Bay of the natives, is where tho
chiefs and the major part of the population reside, on Lele Island. It is the
most spacious ; but as it is on the eastern side of the island, and the prevalent
winds are from the eastern quarter, it is not easy to leave it, tho more so be-
cause there are no soundings in the entrance. It is well protected from the
heavy S.W. winds which sometimes prevail. All the dangers are visible at
low tide, but, from the muddy nature of the bottom, are not generally seen at
high watci-, especially after rain. In entering, keep in mid-channel so\ithward
of Lelo Island, and steer for a reef near the middle of the harbour, which can
be pas.sed on either side, and anchor in about 1 3 fathoms, mud. Supplies of
various kinds can be obtained in moderate quantities. This is the harbour
usually resorted to by the American whalers.

It was visited by Captain Hammct, in H.M.S. Serpent, in January, 1853.
The king, who was called King George, but whose proper name was Keru,
must have oommev\ced to reign in 1837 or 1838, and was found there by Dr.
Gulick. Cajitain Ilaramet describes some remains of stone architecture, also
alluded to by D'Urville, which were the subject of much speculation. But Dr.
Gulick ascertained that they Mere not ancient, but were built for pretention,
and in some cases as monuments.

Coquille Harbour, where Duperrey's vessel anchored, is on the western side
of tho island, which gives it a great advantage over Port Lele. The sea is here
as calrai and tranquil as a mill-pond. The .nnchoragc is excellent, and very tena-
cious, on a bottom of black mud, near two small islets lying in the bottom of
the harbour.

The Island of Kusaie or Ualan will serve as an excellent place for refresh-
ment, and particularly for the whalers or vessels proceeding to China by tho
eastern route ; a tionquil harbour, a fine climate, an abundance of fresh water
and fruits, are great advantages, all to be enjoyed here.*

The position of the N.E. islet in Coquiile Harbour is lat. 5° 21' 20", long,
163° 5' E. Captain Liitke makes the centre of the island in lat. 5° 19', long,
IC3^ 6'. Lcio Island is in lat. 6° 20', long. 163" 9'.

M&cka# lleef. — On October 11, 1856, the ship Indiana, Captain Mackaw,
discovered a reef awash in lat. 3° 20' N., long. 160" 18' E. Good observations
arc claimed for this position, as the chronometers were rated 1 1 days before at
Mitro Island. It was about a quarter of a mile in extent, N.E. and S.W. The
lookout at the masthead also saw broken patches of water to the eastward ; and

♦ h. good supply of yams and fowls can lie obtained from tho uativos. Two vcsscU wore
(•lit off somo years ago ; b?it of late tho natives have got the namo of being friendly and
hofspitaljli). Strangers, however, should not allow too many of thorn on dock; and liava
their boats armed when wooding and waleriug. — Ca^iain Cheynt, 1848.

North Faci/ic, 8 X

978

THE CAROLINE ARCHIPELAGO.

another patcli of breakers was seen from the forecastle to south-westward about
2J to 3 miles distant from the ship. A cast of the lead while passing between
the two reefs gave no bottom at 12 fathoms.* .

FINOELAP, Muigrave, or MacAskill Islands. — According to Arrowsmith's
chart, Capt. Musgrave, in the ship Sugar-cane, discovered some small islands,
in 1793. They were placed in lat. 6M2' N., long. 159" 15' E. According to
Horsburgb, Capt. MacAskill, of the ship Lady Barloiv, on her passage from
Port Jackson to China, discovered, October 29, 1809, two islands covered with
trees, extending about 3 leagues N.W. and S.E. By good observations, the
centre was foxmd to be in lat. 6° 12' N., long. 160° 53' E. Admiral Krusenstcrn
applied the name of Musgrave Islands to the first discovery ; that of MacAskill
was given to the second. Notwithstanding the difference of longitude (perhaps
owing to the effect of currents), it cannot be doubted that they are the same.
Captain Duperrey places Tugulu, the northern one, in lat. 6° 14' 30", long.
1C0°52'.

There are three islands, called Takay, Tugulu, and Pingelap (Pelelep of
Duperrey), and together they are not more than 2J miles in extent, N. by W.
and S. by E. They are covered with cocoa-nut trees, are of coral formation,
and connected by coral reefs, forming a lagoon inside, with a good ship passage
through the reef on the West side leading into it. The group was inhabited by
about 300 people, a light-complexioncd race, who were not to be trusted] they
live chiefly on fish and cocoa-nuts. The reefs produce bichc-dc-mar, but not
in any quantity.

MOKIL, Duperrey, or Wellington Isles, a group of three coral islands, very
close to each other, were discovered in La Coquille, June 18, 1824, and named
after her commander. The three islands are named Aoura, Ongai, and Mokil
or Mougoul. The South point of Mokil is in lat. 6'' 39' N., long. 159° 53' E.
They occupy an extent of less than 3 miles, N.N.E, and S.S.W., the islands
lying near the inner edge of an extensive reef. There appears to be no entrance
to the lagoon.

Capt. Cheyne says they are called the Wellington Isles. They are covered
with cocoa-nut trees, and are connected by coral reefs, forming a lagoon, with
a passage on the N.W. side. The reefs produce biche-du-mar, and a good
supply of cocoa-nuts may be obtained for trifles.

Capt. Ilammct, H.M.S. Serpent, found, in January, 1853, that an American,
named lAicicn Huntington, was living on one of the islands, and that the natives
(then about 80 in number) were quiet and inoffensive, and quite imder his con-
trol. He had a flagstaff, on which ho hoisted a flag to attract passing ships.

• Atlantic Island, lat. 1° 10' N., long. 104' 57' E., has been only reported once, in 1827.
Its existence and position require confirmation.
A reef, from whaler report, in lat. 2° 25' N., long. 153" 50' £., also requires conftrmation,

PONAPI.

979

ith- westward about
ile passing between

Pigs, fowls, turtle, and taroi were procured from him. The only water was rain-
water, And the only wood is the cocoa-nut tree.

ing to Arrowsmith's
some small islands,
' E. According to
1 her passage from
slands covered with
1 observations, the
dmiral Krusenstern
; that of MacAskill
longitude (perhaps
they are the same,
t. 6° 14' 30", long.

ngelap (Pelelep of
I extent, N. by W.
•f coral formation,
I good ship passage
) was inhabited by
to be trusted; they
c-dc-mar, but not

coral islands, very

1824, and named

Ongcd, and Mokil

long. 159° 53' E.

S.W., the islands
to be no entrance

They are covered
ng a lagoon, with
tuar, and a good

lut an American,
i that the natives
te under his con-
3t passing ships.

ted once, in 1827.
[uircs confirmation.

PONAPI, Ascension, or Siniavine Islands. — It Is very singular that this
group, consisting of three separate groups, one of which contains the largest
and highest island of the Carolines, should be one of the latest discovered.
It was first announced by Capt. Liitke, who saw it January 2, 1828, in the
Russian corvette Sentavine, and was named after the officer whose name the
vessel bore. But it is more than probable that it had been visited before this.*

The Seniavine Islands lie between lat. 6° 43' and 7° 6' N.,long. 157° 43' and
158° 20' E. In the principal island the word Ponapi, Bonahi, Bornabi, Powj-
nlpcte,] or Painipete, was constantly pronounced by the natives, and may be
undoubtedly recognised as the Faloupet of Pere Cantova ; Pouloupa, of which
the Ougai islanders spoke to Capt. Duperrey ; and Fanopc, mentioned by the
natives of Kadu to Kotzebue. By the name Ponapi, or by that of Faounoupei,
it is known throughout all the western groups of the Carolines.

The coral reef surrounding Ponapi is ISJ miles in extent. North and South,
17 miles East and "West, and about 60 miles in circumference. Ponapi, or
Ascension, which gives its name to the group, occupies the centre, and is 1 2
miles in diameter. North and South, and 14 J miles East and West, occupying

• Captain Chcyna says:—" Near Metalarien Harbour are some interesting ruins, whicV
nro, however, involvoJ in obscurity ; iho oldest inhabitants being ignorant of their origin,
and having no tradition bearing any reference to their history. That a fortified town once
stood upon this spot, and not built by savages, cannot be doubted ; tho stylo of the ruins
giving strong proofs of civilization. Some of tho stones measuro 8 to 10 ft. in length, are
squared on six sides, and have evidently been brought thither from some civilized country,
there being no stones on the island similar to them. Streets are formed in several places,
and the whole town appears to have been a succession of fortified houses, ijeveral artificial
caves were also discovered within the fortifications.

" This town was, doubtless, at one time, the stronghold of pirates, and, as tho natives can
give no account of it, it seems probable that it was built by Spanish bucaniors, some two or
thrie centuries ogo. This supposition is confirmed by tho fact, that, about three or four
years ago, a small brass cannon was found on one of tho mountains, and taken away by
II.M.S. Larno. Several clear places are also to bo seen a littlo inland, at diQ'erent parts of
tho island, some of which are many acres in extent, clear of timber, and perfectly level.
Upon ono of these plains, called K-par, near Kiti Harbour, is a large mound, about 20 ft. '
wide, 8 ft. high, and a quarter of a mile in length. This must evidently have beon thrown
up for defence, or as a burial place for tho dead after some groat battle.

" Similar ruins ore to be found at Strong Island, of which tho natives can give no
account." According to Mr. Doanc, an American missionary, they are tho ruins of old
thiifg' residences : others think they were temples or forts.

• "The first syllable of this word cannot be exactly rendered ; it has, in the lips of tho
niitivcfl, a strange and Bavag« tound, extremely difficult to pronounce, and disagreeable to
the ear." — Liitke.

■•,'V'

Si
Si

980

THE CAROLINE ARCHIPELAGO.

iV i

iil 1!

nearly tlic whole of the nica enclosed by the fringing coral reef. Besides the
chief island, a do/cii basaltic wooded islets and rocks surround the island, while
on the coral reef nro from fifteen to twenty coral islands, resembling the ordi-
nary atolls.

Its highest point, Tolocohne Peak, or Monte Santo, so named by Liitkc, in
memory of the naval victory gained over the Turks by Admiral Soniavinc, is
2,861 ft. above the level of the sea.

On its N.W. portion is a spot that is entirely flat, from which the land
rapidly falls towards the N.W. point of the island, Cape Zavalichine, nnmcd
from Liitkc's officer. This is remarkoblo for a rock about 1,000 ft. in height,
nearly perpendicular, and which seems to be of basalt. In other directions th<.>
land slopes gradually from the summit to the shore. On the South side is au
isolated and very distinct mass of basalt, which, seen from East to West, ex-
actly resembles o lighthouse or a sentry box.

From what could be judged of the principal geological formation of the
island, it is, like all the other islands of this sea, of basalt. It is entirely
covered with verdure ; but it seems less thickly so than Ualan. To leeward,
that is, on the South and West sides, mangroves and other shrubs grow in the
water, forming an imj)cnctrablc border.

There arc but very few habitations seen near the sea-shore ; the greater part
are hidden by the trees, but the smoke rising in numerous j)oints, and the large
clumps of cocoa-nut trees, attest the numerous population. The number of
people is estimated at 5,000, and they are described as particularly pleasant
ond good-looking. There is an American mission station here.

The whole isb f' is thickly wooded, and produces many varieties of good
timber. The shores are fronted with mangrove trees, which form an impene-
trable barrier to boats, except in the rivers, and other small channels among
them. Many of these are so narrow as scarcely to admit of oara being used ;
the houses near the shore have generally one of these channels leading to
them.

The Rev. Dr. L. H. Gulick has given an interesting Paper on the climate
nnd productions of Ponapi in the .\merican Journal of Science. In a former
page wc have made some extracts from this as regards the climate. The fol-
following is a description of the group.

Monte Santo, in about lat. C^ 53' N., is 2,861 ft. high. Several other points
approach it in elevation. A somewhat continuous range of hills extends from
Uu, of the Wanckn district, westward to Palckn, of the Jekoits district, the
general line of the range being that of a curve, convex southward. The eastern
third, or perhaps half, is narro^v and almost equally precipitous on the northern
nnd southern aspects, presenting in jnany places, as in Uu, perpendicular faces
of rock of great height, which show strong columnar tendencies. The middle
third of the range slopes very gradually on the southern aspect, where the
mountains maintain a comparatively regular descent from their summits to the

rnl reef. Dcsidcs tho

Jund the island, while

resembling tho ordi-

named by Liitkc, in
dmiral Soniavine, is

from which tho lond
Zavaltchinc, named
1,000 ft. in heiglit,
other directions tlio
the South side is an
East to A\'cst, ev-
il formation of the
salt. It is entirely
"lun. To Icewnrd,
shrubs grow in tho

e ; the greater part
oints, and the lam-e
The number of
rticularly pleasant
re.

varieties of good
form an impcne-

I channels anion "
oars being used ;

"uiels leading to

r on the climate
-<-'• In a former
imate. The fol-

eral other i>oint8
'Is extends from
'its district, tlic
ird. The eastern
on the northern
lendicular faces
8- Tho middle
cct, where the
summits to the

PONAPI.

081

ocean shore, a distance of 5 or G miles. Several long narrow valleys r\\\\ up
these slopes, along the sides and at the heads of which arc many faces of
coiumnnr rock, over which leap the most romantic cascades. Again, the
western portion of tho range is narrow and precipitous.

A number of detached hills and short ranges still further diversify the scene,
more particularly the following. Midway between Mctalanien Harbour and
Ani Point, there rises a very high hill, of perhaps 1,000 ft., which sends west-
ward a low prolongation connecting it with the main central range. Again,
on the North of the island, in the Nut district, there rises a similar mountain,
but barely connected with even the mainland. At this place the most perfect
basaltic columns are found. The central ridge of Nut is but a prismatic mass,
ond about its base lie scattered columns of great length, also detached piles of
agglutinated columns arc found. This must have been, I think, at least one
of the spots wlicncc the materials for the Metalanien " Ruins " were taken.

Uy tho course of tho main range and the positions of the subsidiary hills,
two broad and long valleys are formed. One of them may be called the Meta-
lanien, the other the Nut valley. Each of them may be 4 to d miles in width,
and G to 8 miles in length.

There arc several solitary projections of rock in the Metalanien and Kiti dis-
trict. One, much resembling a sugar-loaf in shape, in the Metalanien valley
at the head of that harbour, is called Takain. Its height may be 400 ft., and
its circumference at tho base three-quarters of a mile. Its eastern aspects are
perpendicular, its western not so steep but that by adhering with hands and
feet it may be ascended. Adherent to the base of the main rock, yet separated
from it above, is ii much .smaller rock. Within a (piarter of a mile of Takain
rises a dome-shaped hill, of almost tho same elevation, but not so precipitous.
At the head of Panian Harbour a needle-shaped rock elevates itself from the
top of a slight ridge. It may be 10 or 12 rods at the base, and perhaps loO
feet high above the top of the ridge. On Liitke's chart it bears Iho name of
Mount Gut'ri/e ; on the French chart Jioic. In the West end of the island is
another needle rock, much like Mount (tut'rite.

A ntnuber of very active streams pour through the valleys on tho southern
side of the island. The largest is probably that emptying at the base of
'J'akain. (Jn tho North of the central range there are no streams, save one or
two draining the Nut valley. These streams, during the course of ages, nmst
have eftected great things. I (jucstion whether any bodies of water in tho
world are more active than these. During freshets, which occur with aluio>t
every heavy shower, they arc deeply iicrlurbcd by the black and red earths
with which they arc lad .'u. These alluvial substanees are dej)osited along tho
shores, forming in many places immense flats, over which the tide ebbs and
flows. It is only on tho iSouth side of the island, from Mctalanien Harbour to
Point Kittlitz, that these marshes arc of any considerable extent, for on this side
alone are the principal streams, and these S.W. shores arc protected from ihc

iSii

982

THE CAROLINE ARCHIPELAGO.

roughened occnn, acted upon by the N.E. trades. The island at the mouth of
the Nut valley is but one of the olluvial marshes.

The insulated basaltic points about the main island of Ponapi are very in-
teresting features of the group. Mutok (or Tenedos, as named by Liitko), is in
reality an island, being only attached to the main land by an extensive alluvial
marsh. It is a sort of double hill, rising very precipitously on its eastern aspect
150 or 200 ft. Jekoits Island is an irregular triangle, each side being perhaps
1 i mile in extent. Along the eastern border, running North and South, is a
high ridge, 800 or 1,000 ft. in height, exceedingly precipitous. The north-
western part of the island is elevated from 150 to perhaps 250 or 300 ft., and
along its northern and western shores presents very precipitous ascents. The
columnar tendency may be seen in most of the ledges of this island, though
perfect prisms arc rare. Lutiffur and Poitilc are but points of columnar basalt,
about 100 ft. in height, with a talus about their bases, their circumference at
the water's edge being, perhaps, half a mile, /'arum is about 1^ mile in length,
and in one place half a mile in width, with a central ridge that may be at points
300 ft. in height.

The Manlapeti, or Munts, rise very abruptly from the water's edge. The
smaller of the two is a sort of dome, though presenting in many places faces of
perpendicular basalt. About its eastern shore are considerable hillocks of coarse
conglomerate. The larger Mant is but the crest of a ridge of prismatic rock
that along its whole western aspect presents a very precipitous face, and may
be in one place 300 ft. high. Tapak is but a repetition of the same, of less
elevation. Takain rises with much of the usual perpendicularity to the height
of perhaps 300 ft. The mass of its hill is of a reddish rock ; and in certain
spots a red earth is found which makes an admirable paint for native canoes ;
a substance that is also found in almost every part of the main island. Muto-
kaloj is about 50 ft. in height, and is very small. Only on the margins of this
islet have I succei;ded in finding anything approaching to cellular lava. Taman
Island has a general level of about 75 ft., and descends quite steeply to the
water on nearly every side. Near it, to the South, are several very small and
low basaltic islets.

It need scarcely be remarked that the general surface of all the basnitio
members of the Ponapi group is very rugged. Rocks and stones arc scattered
over almost the entire surface in the greatest profusion ; and but few plains,
even of a few acres in extent, are to be anywhere seen. Tlie leeward slopes in
the Kill district present a few spots that may be termed level. Basaltic speci-
mens may be found on almost every square rod of the island, but on certain
spots they seem to be adventitious rather than native. In such spots the earth
is a reddish clay, imder which will usually be found what seems to bo a de-
composed rock with frequent seams of red earth. Beneath the whole we strike
upon the substratum of basalt, in compact masses.

Surrounding the whole body of basaltic elevations ia a beautiful coral reef,

^ I

•J t

PONAPI.

land at the mouth of

Ponapi ore very in-
mcd by Liitko), is in
an extensive alluvial
r on its eastern aspect
h aide being perhaps
orth and South, is a
pitous. The north-
s 250 or 300 ft., and
pitous ascents. The
this island, though
) of columnar basalt,
iir circumference at
mt 1^ mile in length,
that may be at points

water's edge. The
many places faces of
ble hillocks of coarse
e of prismatic rock
itous face, and may
jf the snmc, of less
ularity to the height
•ock; and in certain
t for native canoes ;
nain island. Muio-
I the margins of this
ellular lava. Taman
uitc steeply to the
reral very small and

of all the basaltic
stones arc scattered
md but few plains,
le leeward slopes in
vel. Basaltic speci-
md, but on certain
luch spots the earth
it seems to bo a de-
the whole we strike

beautiful coral reef,

•^

distant from the coast of the main island the average distance of perhaps 2
miler.. There are no less than seven considerable intervals in the continuity of
thin reef , forming as many harbours, several of which are really excellent. Be-
tween the reef and the shore of the island are all the usual coral patches that
give such wondrous variety to tropical waters. On the outer reef are a number
of islets in every respect similar to those on the purely coralline groups. They
are found from the mouth of Metalanien Harbour, along the southern line, as
far as I'oint Kittlitz, but not on the North of Ponapi. These islets have a
nearly uniform elevation of about 2 ft. above high-water mark. I gather from
my own observations, and from the reports of the pilots, that soundings are
found outside of the reef, nearly if not quite round the island, at distances
varying from a quarter to half a mile from the reef.

Of its harbours Capt. Liitke has given us no account, as before stated. lie
sent Lieut. Zavalichinc, January 3, 1828, to examine one, at the South end of
the island, in an opening of the reef, and leading towards what is marked on
his charts as Mounts Tenedos (Mutok) and La Guirite (the sentry box), before
alluded to.

Eiti, or Rono Kiti Harbour. — Capt. Cheyne first described this harbour in
1848. It is the one most resorted to by American whalers. Its entrance is in
lat. 6° 48' N., long. 158'" 7' E. A vessel bound to this harbour from the east-
ward, from December till April, should endeavour to get into the latitude of
the island as soon as possible, after passing the Duperrey Isles, and continue
running to tho westward on the same parallel of latitude, until the island is
sighted, as strong westerly currents prevail at times during these months, with
much hazy wcatlicr ; and a stranger would be liable to get set past the island,
if a proper allowance were not maJe for the current. After making the land,
continue steering to the westward, until the reef is visible from the deck ; at
Avhich time, if the weather bo moderate, it is presumed a pilot will be along*
side.

The harbour forms a snug basin, where a ship can lie as safe as in a dock.
The entrance, however, is very narrow and intricate ; tho narrows for about
200 yards being only 40 fathoms wide. The outer entrance is between the two
small woody islands named Nalap and Namaur, the latter a sandy islet with
bushes on it, situated on the reef, to the eastward of the former. The channel
is 4 cables wide, between Shaulak or Little Nalap and the sandy islet. Tho
largest Nalap Island is 2^ cables in length. North and South, and tho inner one
two-thirds of a cable in extent. Namaur, on the East side, is about three-
quarters of a cable in length. The distance from the entrance to the narrows
is nearly a mile North (true) mid-channel. In entering, the elbow of tho
barrier reef to the southward of Namaur Islet, shou J have a berth of IJ cable,
as a coral spit extends from it some distance. In the middle of the outer bight
or harbour, the depth is 45 fathoms, decreasing gradually towards the narrows,
where it ranges from 10 to 15 fathoms. A detached sunken rock, with only 4

THE CABOUNE AUCHlPEtAGO.

. ., ,««s. and n

THE CABOLlNb A.W ^^ ^^^^ ^^ ^^^

to the anchorage at the head _ ^^^ ^^^^^^n the na _^^ ^^^^^

, *!, N hv E. and S. by » • V ' . ^ ^ anchorage w «»

in length. N- by ^^^^^ j^ ,„dth. The oe ^^^ ^^^^ ^^^^hout

tV:^ t;^::.-^^---^^^ dry . .. .ate.

Kiti or Boan ^^ J ^^^:^^^^^ ,f good fresh vater can ^.ay J^^ ^^ ^^^
from whence a P^*^";^^; ^^^^ean be easily obtained on ^- ^^ ,..

and an abundance of fi ev. d ^^ ^^^ ^^^^^^ "ijtust seud a boat in.

„.outh of the river. It « »"= ^.ttempting to enter must

Xe rise is 5* ft. A f "^°" '^a East side of the channel. ^^^

„ff „W,.ut "l-'T *^1\L *« re»«rl.-b<»k ot HAW ^^^^^^ .__ ^,.„^

4 ft. o« it on .bo po" ^"° ■ J .. etely »» P"""^ ^,, „„MO0S«iry. »

,h. »«ro»s » N.^^ • ^y -J „„j .. the i«'»« ''f^^*'^„.™,tot m«.t.bcaa.
..up would d^^r-'';^^ ,„„,.a fcom '""'-'"f ^„„„.H water. .»d
dUting"*'*'" *;Xi.a Wto« wM »• -*;'L .boo. to starboard
TbeordiM'y"*'"™ it i. requUilo. •' P»'"7' . ,, fctboms. Tbett

«^»art^:g":j--'--'-i^^^

round the tongu „ .i.„ ^ool to any deptb, ""

^arptonorthwardup^b P ^^^^^,^,,,adrops_ ,5^0 7' E.

,est to do eve--g - -;^;^^^, ,e found the lat. 6 4^ ^ ^^^ ^^ ^^^^ ..

" At the i«r-;;X° ,: full and change, at 6 , the r ^^^ ^^^ ^

Ccorrected). High >'«^«' , ^y Lieutenant G S. Key ^^^^^^ ^^^^

^ This anchorage --« ^^^^^^j.^,,: It is a Pf »* J f J,,,^ ,ater. which

Edwards (n^ate • o^«;^-^^„,,,.ard is a ^^^^^^^^^ \, best place for
holding gvound. To the ^^^ ^^^^^ ^,,gH ^ater^ ^^^ ^^^ ^^.

PONAPI— METALANIEN HARBOUR.

on the
(true),
ly shoals

7 cables
Bt part of

its head,

', without
ow water,

anchorage,
procured,
and, at the

inge,

at 4";

i a boat in,

dangers can
le first of the
idden shift of
ace of getting

rne, 1839 : —
reefs, in which
the inner pas-
ikcn rock, with
ery stcep-to (7
course through
unnecessary, as
deep water, as
Uant mast-head,
ooth water, and
^oot to starboard
J fathoms. Then
horns, which it is

., long. 158" TE.
e was 4i feet."
nolds and Mr. R.

with strong clay
resh water, which

The best place for
, make nets and re-
scends in a torrent.
)tain Lutke says ;—

" Before the N.W. point of the island, remarkable for the high basaltic rock,
we saw a large opening in the reef, and beyond that an extent of water which
promised a good harbour. I determined once more to find a convenient an-
ohorsge. Our boats found a passage 2^ cables in width, and 25 fathoms in
depth, and beyond that, to all appearance, an extensive and safe harbour. But
hardly had they passed the entrance channel before they were met by canoes
full of natives, who surrounded them in an instant in a most turbulent manner.
Rather than come to extremities with them, the boats returned to the corvette.
It is possible that these natives had no hostile intentions, but their conduct was
such that the search was given over." This harbour was called Unwelcome
Harbour (Port du Mauvais Accucil) by Capt. Liitke, from his reception by tho
inhabitants.

Lod Harbour, another small harbour — much used by whalers, on account of
being able to sail in and out with the prevailing N.E. wind — is on tho S.E. side
of the island. The entrance is through a break in the reef, and the anchorage
between that and the mangroves which front the shore.

There is another harbour at the N.W. part of the island, in front of the high
perpendicular cliff which terminates the island of Jecoits or Joquoits to the
N.W. The entrance is through an opening in the barrier, about 2 cables wide,
but the water inside is very deep, from 25 to 30 fathoms. Capt. Moore says
that Jecoits Harbour is difficult and unsafe to attempt, and in this he was con-
firmed by examining it in n boat.

Metalanien Harbour, or Fort Metalamin, on the East sid} of the island, is
perfectly safe, and sheltered from all winds. It has a wide entrance on tho
North side of JViari Island, and the only hidden dangers to be avoided when
running in are a sunken rock, some distance within the entrance, and two
other shoals of 3 to 9 ft., farther to the westward, all nearly in mid-channel.
The sea sometimes breaks on the outer rock ; but it can always be avoided by
keeping the starboard side of the channel close aboard. The barrier reef at
this place extends a long distance from the main land, and between are many
coral fiats. The harbour is formed by the main land, and is similar in shape to
a horse-shoe, and the channel leading to it runs nearly in a direct line W.S.W.
from the entrance to the head of the harbour.

The three detached shoals in this harbour are most dihicult to see, even at
low water and with a good light. They were not visible from the mast-head of
II.M.S. Espiigle when entering the harbour, but were afterwards found to be
correctly placed on the plan; their surface being the same colour as the water,
they were not easy to see even when close to in a boat. The North point of
Tauche Island, on the South side of the harbour, was found to be in lat. 6° 51' N.,
long. 158" 18' E.— H.M.S. Espihgle, 1883.

Thia harbour may be easily recognised from seaward by a remarkable peaked
hill, resembling a spire or sugar-loaf, on the North shore within the harbour.
North Faci/ic. 6 k

ill

> Mi

t
f*

is;;

986

THE CAROLINE ARCHIPELAGO.

An abundant supply of firewood and excellent fresh water can nlwaya be ob<
tained here.

Strong N.E. winds prevail from December to April, with much hazy weather
and frequent squalls, attended with rain. During these months strong westerly
currents are very frequently experienced. From March to August the winds
are generally light and variable, but chiefly from the eastward, with much fine
weather. In September, October, and November, strong westerly winds, with
severe squalls and rain, may be expected ; and strong easterly currents are fre-
quently found during these months. On the whole, the climate must be con-
sidered very moist, as scarcely a day passes without rain, especially in winter.

The ofiScers of H.M.S. Lame made the following observations on this har-
bour : — It is highly advisable that no square-rigged vessels of any magnitude
should enter this harbour. The passage is narrow, with two rocks in it at
different angles, and as it fronts directly to the N.E., from whence the trade
wind is perpetually blowing, a heavy swell rolls in incessantly, and there being
no soundings outside the reef, it is dangerous in beating out in cose of the wind
dropping, and boats are useless for towing on account of the heavy swell. It
was entirely owing to these circumstances that the whaler Falcon, of London,
was wrecked in her attempt to beat out in July, 1 836, after having been threo
months wind-bound inside.

The Ant or Andema Group, the second cluster of the S6niavine Islands, lies
about 7 miles S. W. of Ponapi Island reef. This is the group said to be dis-
covered by Captain i'Vaser, of the ship Planter, in 1832, and named by him
William the Fourth Group, and in some charts Fraser Islands. But the dis-
covery in the Seniavine being prior to this, the credit is due to Captain Liitke.
When first approaching it, January 5, 1828, he was nearly being drifted on to
them by a calm which overtook him ; this was caused by the high land of
I'onapi interrupting the trade wind, but did not prevent the heavy swell from
rolling onwards. 'J'his incident may serve as a caution. He says that the group
is composed of a dozen coral islands of different sizes, covered with a thick
verdure. There was no appearance of habitation, but they were visited at times,
for they saw in one part a pile of stones raised on a large blackish rock. The
reef is of a triangular form, and is about 8 miles long on each side, the islands
occupying that facing the S.E. The South island is in lat. 6° 44' N., long.
157° 53' 30" E.

Capt. Cheyne, of the Naiad, calls them Ant Islands, and says they form a
group of four large, low, coral islands, covered with cocoa-nut and bread-fruit
trees, and surrounded by a coral reef, forming a lagoon inside, with a passage
between the two large islands.

These islands belong to the chiefs near Kiti Harbour. They have no per-
manent inhabitants, but are resorted to from May till September, for the
hawks-bill turtle fishery, lliey are also visited at other times for supplies of
cocoa-nuts and bread-fruit.

THE PA KIN OR P ^GUENEMA GROUP— NGATIK.

087

iy» be ob-

y weather
g westerly
the winds
much fine
inds, with
its ore fro-
ust be con-
in winter,
this hnr-
magnitudo
cs in it at
the trade
there being
of the wind
r swell. It
of London,
; been three

Islands, lies
1 to be dis-
med by him

But the dis-
ptaiu Liitke.
drifted on to
high land of
;y swell from
lat the group
with a thick
sited at times,
h rock. The
e, the islands
44' N., long.

i they form a
id bread-fruit
rith a passage

have no per-
nbcr, for the
)r aupplies of

The Fokin or f egnenema Group, the third and westernmost of the Sonia-
vinc Islands, is composed of five small islands, extending about 5 miles, N.W.
and S.E. The S.E. island is named Katelma, and its East point is in lat.
7^ 2' N., long. 157° 47' 30" E. The next lies \\ mile to the northword, and is
called Ta; the next is Tagaik, lat. 7'' 4' 4", long. 157° 47'. Kap mar, or
Kapenuare, is the westernmost and largest, its West point being in lat. 7° 4' 40",
long. 157^ 44'. In the Nautical Magazine, November, 1818, tlicy are called
Pakeen, and the following is the account there given of the group : —

It is composed of five small islands surrounded by a coral reef, forming n
lagoon inside, into which there is no passage through the reef The western-
most island is inhabited by a Fonapi chief, his family and servants, in nil about
thirty souls. The lagoon affords plenty of excellent fish. This place is cele-
brated for its canoe sails, whicli are manufactured from the leaves of the pan-
danus tree, and are eagerly sought after by the natives of Ponapi. Poultry
are also plentiful. In fine weather the natives, who are about 100 in number,
frequently visit Ponapi in their canoes.

NOATIK (Ngaryk), or Valientea Islands, is a small group of eij;' t coral
islands, the East extreme of which is in lat. 5° 47' 30" N., long. 157'' 32' E.
They were discovered, in 1773, by the Spanish navigator Don Felipe Tompson,
who called them Loh Valientes. Ho made a plan of them, which was found
by Capt. Liitke to be tolornbly accurate, but 1° 4' too far East. They were
seen, in 1793, by Captain Musgrave, in the Sugar-cane, who called them the
Seven Islands; and in the year following they were passed by the Britannia,
and named the Raven Islands. Captain Don Joachim Lafita saw them, and
determined their position in 1802. They were surveyed, in 1828, by Captain
Liitke, whoso account follows : —

The group is of a triangular form, and is 22 miles in circumference. We
counted eight islands, and not seven as marked on Tompson's plan. We
found a continuous reef surrounding the whole of the group, without having
the least passage into the lagoon. It would be cu ious to know if Tompson
was mistaken in marking an opening on the South side by which the natives
passed in their canoes, or whether this opening has become closed in the course
of fifty-five years by the zoophyte architects. On all the islands a large quan-
tity of cocoa-nut trees grow ; the South side of the northernmost island is quite
covered with a forest of these trees. Notwithstanding this, we saw no traces
of inhabitants except on the small island at the western angle. Tompson saw
people on the eastern islet, and canoes in the lagoon. We were surprised at
the entire absence of the latter. This was more strange, as a large quantity
of bread-fruit trees, from which they make their canoes, were seen ; and, be-
sides this, a large quantity of drift-wood lay on the shore. The population
must be very slight. It was supposed that the thirty men seen together on the
westernmost island formed the entire population.

Mr. Doane visited this group in 1874, in the missionary vessel Star, He

I*'

988

THE CAROLINE ARCHIPELAGO.

i-r;

■tates there is a boat entranoo to the lagoon near an islet on the eastern es-
trcmity of the reef. The islands are fertile, producing bread-fruit, oocoa-nutv,
sugar-cane, bananas, &o. — Qeographioal Magazine, August, 1874, pp. 203-6.

NUKUOB (Nougouorc), or Monteverde Itlandi. — This group, which lies
considerably to the South of the general line of the Caroline Archipelago, was
discovered, in 1806, by Don Juan Bapt. Monteverde, commanding the Spanish
frigate La Pala. The first or native name is that applied to them by Captain
Liitke, though he did not see them.

They were seen by Capt. R. L. Hunter, December 10th, 1840. They form
a group of small, low, coral islands, covered with cocoa-nut and other trees,
and connected by a reef, forming a lagoon inside, the whole group being only
about 12 or 14 miles in circumference. They are inhabited by n fine, hand-
some race, who are above the mean stoturc, and resemble the nntlves of the
Navigator Islands in appearance ; in 1874 they numbered about 150. Their
cnnocs are neat, and capable of carrying 12 men. The centre of the group is
in lot. 3° 62' N., long. 164° 56' E.

There is only one passage into the lagoon, and that is on the S.E. side ; it is
about 20 yards broad, and has been used by trading schooners. The tide runs
strongly through it, the ebb forming a heavy race outside dangerous to boats.

Matador Island. — In 1876 the master of a British schooner announced the
discovery of a group of fifteen small coral islands on an atoll, in lat. 1° 30' N.,
long. 167° E. (approximate). One of the islands was inhabited ; the natives
were very shy, and said the island was named Matador. This may be Spartan
Island, reported by the American ship Spartan, in lat. 1° 10' N., long.
159' 30' E.

OBEENWICE or Gonatantin Island. — This isolated spot was seen in 1825>
and then had the first name applied to it. It was again reported in the
Nautical Magazine, 1862, page 226, and was considered as doubtful. It was
then seen on December 20th, 1833, by Capt. Tardy de Montravel of the French
Marine, who has done great services to hydrographical science, in the French
ship Conataniin, bound to New Caledonia. They were again seen by Captain
W. Symington, in the Northfleet, 1864, and from the Spanish frigate Beren-
guela, 1866. Still more recently they have been seen and described by Capt.
Hamilton, barque Fire Queen, 1877. Their native name is Kapinga Malany.

The group forms an atoll similar to Nukuor, having twenty-eight small, low,
eoral islets, covered with cocoa-nut trees, on its eastern side, the western side
being coral reef. The reef is triangular in shape, with its base to the north-
trard, and is about 14 miles in extent North and South, and 8 or 9 miles East
and West, enclosing a lagoon. Only two islands are inhabited, both at the
S.W. portion of the group ; on one of these is a mound about 80 ft. high,

ORALUK.

980

le eastern ex-
it, coooa-Dut0,
1, pp. 203-5.

ip, which lies
shipelago, wa>
\g the Spanish
}ni by Captain

They form
d other trees,
up being only
ft fine, hand-
nPttves of the
150. Their
f the group is

3.E. aide ; it is
The tide runs
rous to boats.

announced the
lat. 1" 30' N.,
d ; the natives
ay be Spartan
10' N., long.

I seen in 1825t
ported in the
btful. It was

of the French
in the French
len by Captain
frigate Beren-
ribed by Capt.
jinffo Malany.
;ht small, low,
3 western side

to the north-
r miles East
I, both at the
ut 80 ft. high,

formed of dead coral. At the eastern extremity of the reef is a sand-bank. On
the South side there is a boat entrance to the lagoon, about 1 mile westward
of the western island. The East end of the group is in about lat. 1* 4' N., long.
164» 46' E.*

UEALUX, San Aguttino, or Dordelaite Island. — This is a small, low, coral
island, 2 miles long, and about 100 ft. high, with a reef projecting from it to
the S.E. for 18 miles. It wos perhaps discovered, in 1826, by Capt. Snliz, com-
manding Le Penmen, of Bordeaux. The reef forms a lagoon inside it, nnd
from its S.E. pnrt the island cannot be seen ; it is, therefore, very dangerous.
The island is in about lat. 7° 38' N., long. 155<> 0' E.

Several discoveries are stated to have been made in this immediate neigh-
bourhood. Jane Island, by Capt. Johnson, of the ship Guilford, in October,
1827, in lat. 7° 3<T N., long. 155*> 3'. His description, which accords very
nearly with that of Cnpt. Salie, is that of a low island, half a mile in length,
with II very dangerous reef running off the S.E. extreme to the distance of 5
miles, and a chain of rocks extending to the E.S.E., as far as could be seen
from the mast-head. Near the East extreme lies Baxo Trista, 50 ft. high.

Isabella Beef, so called from the wreck of a whaler of that name, was said
in the usual vague manner to be 80 miles long, and in lat. 7'' 21' N., long.
156" 30' E. Mr. Bray, of the Morning Star, 1880, states that he sighted a
small reef, which had a low growth of bushes on it, in lat. 7° 25' N., long.
156° 28' E. Cupt. Hamilton, of the Fire Queen, 1866—1872, states thot ho
passed this position on three occasions, no signs of a reef being visible.
Amicitia Island, in lat. 7° 35' N., long. 156° 45' E., is another doubtful
announcement. That the neighbourhood requires examination, the following
will still further demonstrate.

Another is Larhins or Campbell Reef, a dangerous reef discovered by Capt.
W. Campbell, of the ship Larkins, February 23, 1830. The N.E. point is
placed in lat. 7' 36' N., long. Ibb" 10' E. He did not see the small island, but
says it is 14 miles E.S.E. of Bordelaisc Island. Meaburn Island, in lat. 7" 49',
long. 155° 20', must be the same. San Agustino Island and Bnxo Trista, dis-
covered by Don F. Tompson, which, though placed by him 2" to the East,
would appear to bo the same ; more particularly, as, should the position have
been conect, ho would have been within sight of the high Seniavine Islands.
Liitkc discovered an error of V 4' in the longitude of Los Yalientes, which
would reduce the discrepancies to 1°, which Admiral Krusenstern considers
ought not to bo considered as decisive.

* DscAroLis KiF.r, reported to have been seen from the vessel of thnt name, in May,
1809, at hall a mile distHnco, in Int. 0* 32' K., long, about 152' 61' E., seemed to bo of
smnll extent, and the srn, nlthough smooth nt the time, broke oceastonnlljr over it It is
doubtful whether it exittd.

■ «'

■ 4l'

i''^:;

I I

I i

1 !?

i 1

I I

1 :i

■■ ■ i (

:1N:

:i l!|

990

THE CAROLINE ARCHIPELAGO.

Bordelaise Inland, therefore, it is very probable, is the only island. It is
covered with bushes and pnlm-trecs, and can only bo seen 10 or 12 miles.
M. Edw. du Fernet, master of an Oahu schooner, was wrecked on its reef in
1843, and remained on the islet five months, during which tin»c they built a
small craft which carried them safe to Guam. He was pretty certain that no
other island existed near it. The island is uninhabited, but we cannot bo cer-
tain of its character, or of the authenticity of the various announcements, till
a further examination is made.

Wishart Reef, 3Itn(o Breakers, or Costello Reef.— On January 3rd, 1842,
Capt. J. R. Wishart, in the barque Countess of Mmto, saw a patch of breakers,
dry in some places, more particularly in the North part, extending in a N.W.
and S.E. direction. He made it in lat. 8° 10' N., long. 154° 19' E. (corrected).
It was again seen by Capt. Agostinho Costello, in the Sardinian schooner Sofia,
November 27, 1854; a wreck, with only the bowsprit and jibboom, was lying
on the East port. It was described as of an ellipical form, 7 miles long. East
and West, and 2 miles broad. North an 1 South. Except the small portion at
the point where the ship lay, it was awash, or some feet under water, when the
sea breaks all over it. Lat. stated 8" 6' N., long. 154° 0' E. It was again seen
by Capt. Richards, in the Siamese ship Ocean Queen, July 25, 1855, the wreck
still lying on it. The position of the latter was lat. 8° 6' N., long. 154° 20' 30" E.
It was again seen by Capt. Webb, in the ship Mildman, in 1858. He saw two
wrecks on it, and places the West end of it in lat. 8° 8' N., long. 154° 29' E.

From an anuouuccment in the San Francisco Herald, a reef, 10 miles long,
lies in lat. 7' 56' N., long. 154° 20' E. All these announcements evidently refer
to the same reef, and arc tolerably accordant. The mean of the five positions,
supposing them to refer to the South end, as they appear to do, would place it
in about lat. 8° 5' N., long. 154° 17' E.

Dankin Beef, seen, in 1824, by the person whose name it bears, is marked
as an extensive shoal, the South end of which is in lat. 8° 50' N., long. 154° 10' E.
It is possible that it may be the same as Wishart Eeef, but as another announce-
ment, by a whaler, places it nearly in the above latitude, or 9° 0' N., 55 miles
northward jf the mean lai itude of the former, it must be considered for the
present as a separate danger, of unknown extent and character, but its South
end in about lat. 8° 55' N., long. 154° E.

LOSAP (Louasappc) is a small island, discovered and named by Captain
Duperrey, in lat. C° 53' N., long. 152" 42' 20" E. In the secoud volume of
Admiral Krusenstern's Memoir (p. 347) it is called Duperrey Island, but this
was before tlic publication of that commander's voyage. They are called the
Westtnelis fslands by the apocryphal Capt. Morrell, who believed them to bo
a new discovery, February 23, 1830. He says they seem to be composed of
three small low islands, of nearly equal size, connected by a coral reef. They
are well wooded with cocoa-nut and bread-fruit trees. They were neither of
them more than 5 miles iu circumference, and had biche-de-mar and pearl-

LOSAP— MOUTLOCK ISLES— LUKUXOR.

991

sland. It is
or 12 miles,
n its reef in
they built a
tain that no
annot bo ccr-
iicemcnts, till

ry 3rd, 1842,

1 of breakers,

ig in a N.W.

. (corrected).

hooner Sofia,

)m, was lying

es long. East

all portion nt

ter, when the

'as again seen

!53, the wreck

,54°20'a0"l';.

. lie saw two

, 154° 29' E.

miles long,

evidently refer

five positions,

would place it

nrs, is marked
ng. 154" 10' E.
iher announce-
I' N., 55 miles
idercd for the
but its South

ed by Captain
)ud volume of
land, but this
are called the
'ed them to be
e composed of
al reef. They
ere neither of
lar and pearl-

oysters on the rocfs. In 1874 the population was thought to uumber about
500.*

Losac is a beautiful lagoon, free frora shoals, and has n depth of about IG
fathoms. There is a nari'ow passage upon the eastern rcuf very much liko that
at Ebon, and it should be used only in the same manner. Upon the vkostern
reef are there six passages; some of them, however, have rocks in tLein with
not more than 2 J and 3 fathoms on them, and one I found with only 9 ft. The
best passage is the one to the South of the only large sand-baak upon the
reef. At the N.E. end of the lagoon there is a sn:!li lagoon within tho lagoon ;
there is good anchorage there in 8 fathoms. />' Uiville, properly calJcd Namu,
is a small island 12 miles N.W. of Losap, without any lagoon, and consider-
ably higher than most coral islands. It has no anchorage. — (J/c. /. Bray.)
It is thickly wooded with bread-fruit and cocoa-nut trees, and has about 150 or
200 inhabitants.

The eastern Losap Island appears to be in about lat. 6' 5.T N., long. 152" 42 E.,
and D'Urville Island in lat. 6° 59', long. 152° 33',

MOBTLOCK ISLES were discovered November 29, 1793, by Capt. James
Mortlock, commanding the ship Young William. Admiral Kriiscnstern ap-
plied the name of the discoverer to them, while on other cliaits the. name of
his vessel is given. Mortlock only saw their South side, and consequently
gained a very imperfect notion of them. This is obviated by the examination
made by Capt. Liitke. He surveyed the group, and they arc considered as
separate islands in Dr. Gulick's list, consisting of Luknnor, Sotoun, and Elul,

Capt. Cheyne says that these islands are well inhabited by an able-bodied
race, of a light complexion. Strangers should be very cautious in holding in-
tercourse with them, au hey are not to be trusted, no matter how friendly they
may appear. Under no consideration should any of them be allowed on deck.
Mr. Doanc, however, states that his experience does nryt agree with this, ilio
natives being very friendly during the stay of the Star.

The following are Liitke's description of them : — Between the lat. of 5° 17'
and 5° 37' N., long. 153° 59' and 153° 37' E., aro three low coral groups, on
which may be reckoned ninety islets of various dimensions.

LUKUNOR {Lougounor, Liitke — Lugunor, Cheyne), the easternmost of
these groups, is of an oval form, and about 1 8 or 20 miles in circuii. Lukunor
Island, at the eastern angle, is curved into the form of a horse-shoe, and forms
on its West side an excellent port, named Chatnisso, in honour of the naiurulist
who gave to the world the first notions worthy of credit on this archipelago.

• San Rafael Island of Captain Montevoido, 1800, nnd ao named by Diiporrcj', is
placed in 7" 18' N., lon^- 153" 5j' E., or 76 miles to the K.N.E. of Lo»ap I<4«nd. It in not
enumcmtcd in Dr. Gulick'< list, nnd thcio is somo ilnubt as to H» eiUtnncc. If not, it id
poBi<ibIy the samo an tho latter island, or D'Urvillo Island, na th« descri})tir>DK ii some de«
greo coincide.

m
I

■1 ■■><

v';.

M >•

:l'i

1 1

992

THE CAROLINE ARCHIPELAGO.

The greatest breadth of the island is one-third of a mile, and its middle,
raised about 7 ft. above the sea, is covered with bread-fruit trees, and, on the
shores particularly, cocoa-nut and other trees. The southern part of the
island is sandy, but towards the North there is much vegetable mould, on
whioh arc the arum plantations, which require a very humid soil, and near to
whtefa are all the habitations of the natives. These plantations arc intersected
by xaan&w channels, which conduct the water to irrigate all parts, and serve as
boundary marks. The woods which surround them form a magnificent pano-
MMiiR, where plants rf every species arc in infinite varie^, giving the most ex-
c«ttent idea of the /Koductions of tb*^* low islands.

ISi*! wland naturally has no fresh water, but the rain-water is collected in
trenches and in excavations in the trunks of those cocoa-nut trees that arc in-
clined. The water in the trenches was always found to be brackish, and
smelt bad, 'J'his slight resource suffices for the inhabitants, inasmuch as they
drink but little, and the cocoa-nut supplies the deficiencies by its delicious
contents.

The Lukunorians were found by Capt. ]jiitke to b*? hospitable, kind, reserved,
and of agreeable manners ; they are above the middle sj.^e. 1'heir canoes are
constructed with infinite pains, and are very carefully preserved ; and in their
management they sliow great skill and judgment in the very long voyages which
they undertake These islanders are the easternmost of the Caroline natives
who thus vravcl,

Lukunor offers no more resources than any other of the low coral islaudn.
A good supply of cocoa-nuts may be looked for ; bread-fruit can only be had
in the season. Some poultry and pigeons were also procured. In 1 874 the
population was about 1 ,500.

Port Chamieso. — The entrance to this anchorage is between the West end
of Lukunor Island an''! the East end of Siapunor Island r it is about 2^ cables
wide, with 22 to 1 2 fathoms in it. To enter, keep dose round the West end
of Lukunor Island, and then steer E.N.E. for the anchorage in 1 2 to 10 fathoms,
fine 8»ad. The observation spot, 6 cables from the West end of Lukunor Island,
is in lat. 5° 29' 18" N., long. 163° 58' E.

" Here we find, if I mistake not, the gem of the coral islat\d» in Micronesia.
The lagoon, comparatively free from coral patches, and the islets fertile, and
so situated as to protect the anchoring ground, which has a fine bottom, and
close in to the shore if needed, and not deep, the contour of the atoll, the mild-
ness of the people, all combine to make this a beautiful island. There is but
one passitj^i , though easy of access, on the South side." — Mr. Doane.

The 80T0AN GROUP, to the S.W. of Lukunor, is 17 miles in length, N. W.
MVl '*, E, and 12 miles broad; about si.icty islets were counted on it. Two
puMajji.-t offer access to the lagoon, one on the South side, and the other on
th« Nort* the lagoon is stated to be very free from coral patches, All the
islets are ccrvfired with wood, the bread-fniit, cocoa-nut, and pandanus being

frnkt

mile, and its niidtllc,
ruit trees, and, on the
Jouthern part of the

vegetable mould, on
mid soil, and near to
tations are intersected
ill parts, and serve as

a magnificent pano-
> giving the most ex-

vater is collected in
nit trees that arc in-
to bo brackish, and
s. inasmuch as they
'ies by its delicious

able, kind, reserved.
'J'heii- canoes are
ei-ved ; and iu their
long voyages which
le Caroline natives

low coral islands.
t can only be had
red. In 1874 the

^cn

the West end

nbout 2^ cables

i the West end

12 to 10 fathoms,

Lukunor Island,

ids in Micronesia,
islets fertile, and

i"e bottom, and
atoll, the mild-
I- Thcic is but

Doattfi.

in length, N.W.
ted on it. Two
id the other on
atchcs, All the
pandanus bcioj*

THE SOTOAN GROUP— TRUK Oil HOGOLEU ISLANDS. \m

abundant. Only two or three canoes approached the Seniavine, but no coni-
muuicatiou was held with them.

Capt. Cheyne, in the Naiad, visited the islands in October, 1844. He found
a good passage through the reef, on the S.W. part of the group, and anchorage
iu the lagoon, near the entrance, but the bottom was very uneven and rocky.
The Naiad anchored in 25 f.ithoms, about three-quarters of a mile to the
northward of the entrance, inside of a small islet bearing S.W. from her one-
quarter of a mile, and lay there three weeks, during which time they built a
biche-de-mar house on the small island, but could not get the natives to coia;et
the slug, and consequently were obliged to leave. In 1874 the populatiou was
conmuted to be about 1 ,500.

The West end of Ta Island, on the East side of the southern pass, is in lal.
6° 17' N., long. 163° 46' E.

The ETAL GEOUP is the third and northernmost of the Mortlock Isles ; it
ia a small group, not more than 12 miles in circumference, and composed of
several low coral islands and islets, thickly wooded, connected by a reef, form-
ing a lagoon, with no entrance for ships. The channel between it and Sotoan
is about 3 miles wide, and clear of danger. The centre of the group is in
about lat. 5° 35' N., long. 153° 43' E. In 1874 the population was about 600.

NAMOLTIK ISLANDS lie about 33 miles to the N.W. of Lukunor, and
were discovered by Capt. Liitke. In coming from the North, the Seniavine
passed them, at the distance of less than 12 miles, which shows how readily
these islands may be unnoticed even within such a distance. They were also
probably seen by Capt. Harwood, in the ship Hastings. They are most likely
the same as the Hashmy Islands (called by Dr. Gulick Mokor*), announced
as bemg very populous in the Sydney Herald, March 25, 1833. Capt. Clieyne,
of the JN'iaiai^, says xhey are five in number, the group 15 miles iu circum-
ference, of a circular form, 1 00 ft. high (to the top of the trees ?) and well
wooded with cocoa-nut, bread-fruit, and other trees. The reef may be ap-
proached within 200 yards, as no hiddeB dangers exist. The natives, he says,
though wearing the mask af friendsh^, are by no meims to be trusted, in
1874 the population was eatimated to number from 300 to 500. There is only
u boat passage into the lagoon. Amesse, the soutlieru island, is in latituile
6° 45' 15" N., long. 1;)3" 16' 30" E

TRUK or HOGOLEU ISLANDS. -This group is composed of four or five
large and lofty basaltic inlands, surrounded by a barrier reef, on which are a
great number of coral islands. It is one of the most extensive in the Caroline
Archipelago, and was disewvered by Captaiu Duptney, June 24, 1821. His

• Mokor Island (lat. 6» 41 N., long. IS'i' 40' E.) I could not And, though I searched for
it. I have liecn told by trKdinfj; oaj t.iins that it ia (eit.ou thrrc is iij iolaiid there. — Mr. J,
Oray, of tha Mnrnitiif Star, 1880.

North Pocific. 6 I,

i:!i;

994

THE CAROLINE ARCHIPELAGO.

survey, puLlislied on a large scale in the atlas of his voyage, compiiHOs almost
the sura of our knowledge of them, as the relation of his voyage, as fur as con-
cerns this part of the Pacific, has not been published. The north* iraost of
the group, Pise Island, is in lat. T" 42' 30" N., long. 151^ 46' E. ; the southern-
most. South Island, in lat. 6° 57', long. 151° 67' 30"; Torres Island, the
westernmost, in lat. 7° 20', long. 151" 24' ; and the easternmost, in lat. 7° 20 ,
long. 152^ 0' 30". The largest of them, Tol, is not more than 10 miles in cir-
cumference ; it is of very irregular form, and on each of its projections is a
hill, that to the S.E. being 700 ft. high. At 12 miles to the East of it is link,
4 miles long, and 700 ft. high.

Tsis Islet is three-quarters of a mile in extent, covered with cocoa-nut trees
and other wood. It has anchorage to the N. W. of it. and plenty of fresh
water can be procured ou the North side. Its North point is in lat. 7"^ 18' 30 " N.,
long. 151" 48' 30" E.

The Royalist Islands of Captain Chcyne are probably the S.E. extreme of
Ilogoleu. He passed 7 or 8 miles to the eastward of them in October, 1844,
and thought them a distinct group, as no part of the larger islands was visible.
They are low, of coral, covered witli wood, and enclosing a lagoon. They were
thickly peopled by a vigorous race.

This southern {>rotip is a reef of rectangular form, about 12 miles long,
N.W. and S.E., and 5 miles broad ; inside this reef (on which is the island of
Givi-y on the North, Hacq Island on the N.E., Lauvergnc Island on the S.E. side,
and South Island on the extreme South corner) is a large clear lagoon, with
one eiilranct on the S.W. side- I'he Blanche steamed along the S.W. and
N.W. side?, crossing the true Hogolu barrier reef in long. 152° E., carrying
from 7 to 8 fathoms, with shoal patches nearly awash on either side, and an-
chored in 17 fathoms off the N.W. end of Tsis Island. The natives were quite
naked, armed with spears and slings, are savage, and not to be trusted. On
weighing, with the intention of examining the group to the northward, found
it full of shoals, and, the weather being unfavourable, stood out of the passage
in the Hogolu barrier reef, bearing S.W. from the anchorage off Tsis Island,
with no bottom at 17 fathoms ; found the longitude, as marked in the Admi-
ralty chart, about 8 miles too far to the westward. — Captain Simpson, H.M.S.
Blanche, 1872.

Capt. Morrell gives a glowing picture of the people, but unfortunately it is
not correct. Capt. Cheyne, in the brig hniad ixwA Will-o" -the- Wisp, came here
in October, 1844, to collect biche-de-mar, and were completely taken off their
guard by the apparent fi iendlincss of the natives, who at first assisted them to
build their curing-houses. As soon as the brig loft, they attacked the schooner
with a force of 2,000 men, and were only repulsed with desperate fighting, nnd
the loss of six killed and five woinuled. They also seized the long-boat, which
was recovered the same day, and a severe drubbing administered. They liiul a

TIIUK OR lIOGOLtU ISLANDS— HALL ISLANDS.

996

comprises almost
je, as far as con-
northf imost of
!. ; the southern-
'ren Island, the
St, in lat. 7° 20 ,
10 miles in cir-
projoctions is a
last of it is Ititk,

cocoa-nut trees
plenty of fresh
lit. 7M8'30"N.,

I.E. extreme of
October, 1844,
nds was visible.
Jon. They were

12 miles lonjj,
is the island of
>n the S.E. side,
ir lagoon, with
the S.W. and
!° E., carrying
■ side, and nn-
ives were quite
B trusted. On
rthward, found
of the passage
ff Tsis Island,
I in the Admi-
npson, H.M.S.

irlunately it is
isp, came here
taken off their
isisted them to
d the schooner
e fighting, rind
ig-boat, which
1. They hail a

great number of large Spanish knives, and were armed with brass-hilted cut-
lasses. The population, according to Dr. Oulick, was 5,000.

The following more recent account is by Mr. J. Bray, of the missionary packet
Morning Star, 1880.

Tlie Truk, or Hogolu group, is in a vast lagoon like a large lake in the sea,
anil is a beautiful place. There are ten high islands in the lagoon, varying
from 10 to 15 miles in circumference, and from 200 to 1,000 ft. high, and
scores of smaller ones are found throughout the lagoon and upon the surround-
ing reefs. Givry, Hacq, Lauvergne, nd South Islands are upon a separate
reef, enclosing a lagoon into which thi • o seemed to be a passage at the S.E.
and N.W. Betweeii the two groups there is a wide clear passage with deep
water and a strong current running West.

Following up the eastern reef, we came to a good passage through the reef
about 300 yards wide, having a bank of 5 and 6 fathoms across its mouth, and
a good-sized island on its South side, called by the natives Woles Island, pro-
bably Caplin Island of the charts. On the North side is a small islet, or I
might say it is in the passage, as there is a small passage North of that again.
At 3i miles North of this there is another good passage about half the width
of the preceding; the island just South of it is named Chassant, the natives
call it Silat. At 14 miles farther North, in lat. 7' 30' N., there is a splendid
])assage a mile or more wide, with 15 fathoms of water, but just inside is a
small 3-fathoms bank. There are tide-rips in the passage during the N.E.
trades. At the North end of the lagoon the natives reported three more good
passages — the first 1 1 miles North of the last-mentioned ; also a passage at
each end of Pise Island.

Between Cuop Islands and Falau Islet there are five other passages through
the reef. The best is the first one East of Falau Islet, this islet being a good
mark to steer for, as it stands alone, and is well covered with high wood. I
think good anchorage can be found almost anywhere in the lagoon. The
soundings we took varied from 15 to 27 fathoms. We anchored near the S.E.
end of Umol Island, in 17 fathoms. More sheltered anchorage, however, can
be found ia the channel between Umol and Ruk Islands, in 17 to 19 fathoms.
The natives report numerous good passages through the reef extending to the
West and North from Falau Islet.

The natives are larger than any we have seen at any other of the Pacific
islands, and a ve:y amiable «nd pleasant people to meet. They aie very hos-
tile to each other, and each island has its own clan. I think there would he
no further danger, however, to any vessel visiting the lagoon. Mr. Kubary,
a German natuialist, who resided here for a year, estimates the populatiou at
10,000.

HALL ISLANDS. — In the relation of the v(>yag«B of Captain Saliz, in the
French ship Le Peruvien, 1823-27. it is stated that this giouj) was *i.seovere(l
by an English commundur uuiued llall, ia 1824, and that it coiMi«i<ed of two

996

THE CAROLINE ARCHIPELAGO.

groups, separated by a channel, which was named after his vessel. Lady Black-
wood Passage. Capt. Liitke examined them in detail, and describes them in
liis narrative.

The MOTJRILEU OROUF, which lies to the N.E., is composed of nine
islands, the principal of which are Mourileu, £ud, and Namourousse. The
reef which surrounds them is of an irregular form. On the leeward side it is
for the most part submerged, and can only be distinguished by the greenness
of the water. Should a vessel strike on this by night, there can be but very
little hope for sofcty. On the West side of Ru4 there is a passage, even for
large ships, which renders it probable that anchorage would be found in the
lagoon. The inhabitants only occupy the windward islands, and do not go to
the S.W. angle of the group, except for the purpose of fishing. The eastern-
most islet, Mourileu, is in lat. 8° 41' N., long. 152° 25' £. The population
amounted to about 100.

NAMOLIFIAFANE, or Fananou of Lutke, the S.E. group, is 40 miles in
circumference, and encloses thirteen islands, the principal of which are Ikop,
Fananou, and Namouine. These islands, as well as those which compose the
Mourileu group, are very small, the largest not being more than two-thirds of
a mile long. The rest of the space is occupied by the reef, which is not less
dangerous here than that of Mourileu. The entrance to the lagoon is about
the centre of the S.E. side. Capt. Liitke took off a sailor, William Floyd, who
had been left here by a whale ship, and from whom he gathered some par-
ticulars of the archipelago. Namouine, the southernmost, is in lat. 8° 25' 30" N.,
long. 15r 49' 15" E. The inhabitants numbered about 50.

EAST FAIU, or LaUc Island.* — This little island possesses a name which
was repeated in another to the westward ; hence its prefix by Captain Liitke.
Krusenstern proposes the name of Liitke Island on this account. It is but a
small islet, not more than a mile long, and about three-quarters of a mile
broad, surrounded by a reef. The Caroline islanders sometimes touch here in
their passages to procure fresh water, which is deposited by the rain in a small
basin on it. It is in lat. 8° 33' 20" N., long. 151*^ 26' E. The population was
about 50.

NAMONUITO ISLANDS. -The S.W. isle of this group was seen by Capt.
Ibargoitia, in the Philippine, in 1801 ; he called it Anonima, because it did
not appear on the charts. It was named by Morrell Livincjstun Island, in 1832.
In Capt. Duperrey's chart it is called Ihinkey Island, from the name of a com-
mander who crossed the group (so it is stated) in 1824.

The Namonuito group, according to Capt. (jiitke's observations, lies between
lat. 8° 33 and 9= 0' N., long. 150° 31' and 1 19° 47' E. Whether as the com-
mencement or the base of a group of islands, or else of a single island, which

* It may lie observed that iidmirnl KruMnstorn hits applied the nami' of '.litkc to tha
1 iipfn group to the West, next dcsciibeii, in his alius. This is probably un oversight.

NAMONUITO ISLANDS— TAMATAM.

997

b1, Lady Black-
Icribes them ia

nposed of nine
§ourousse. The

pward side it is
the greenness

Vn be but very
Jssage, even for
\e found in the
pd do not go to
The eastern-

rhe population

is 40 miles in
hich are Ikop,
ih compose the
n two-thirds of
lich is not less
agoon is about
am Floyd, who
ered some par-
it. 8° 25' 30" N.,

a name which
Captain Lutke.
t. It is but a
rters of a mile
8 touch here in
rain in a small
population was

1 seen by Capt.
because it did
sland, in 1832.
amc of a com-

B, lies between
'r as the corn-
island, which

if r.utkfi to the
ovorsiyht.

some day will exist here, this place merits particular attention. It presents all
the aspect of the coral formation from its origin. Either from its later forma-
tion, or its greater extent, it remains behindhand of the rest of the group, and
now forms but the elements of a group. Here is the bed of the future coral
dike, having a depth equal to 20 fathoms, and bestrewed with banks of little
depth. At the windward limit of this dike there are already some islets united
together by a reef, but it is not yet continuous ; on the opposite side there is
nl&o an island. The reefs extend from the two extremities for a short distance
along the dike, the space between it and the reefs being occupied by sub-
merged banks, which are still separated by large intervals. It would be in-
teresting to follow the progress of this incipient coral group, which may take
thousands of years to completely form, and would then be one of the largest,
being 46 miles from East to West.

The south-easternmost of ^b*^ windward group is Piserarr, or Pisserarre (or
Pharas of M. Chamisso), and is in lat. 8' 34' 20" N., long. 150" 32' 30" E.
Beyond this, on the N.E. face, are Ounalik, Amytideu, Pilipal, and Onooup ;
and N.W. of these again are two other islets, Maghyr and Maghyrarik, at the
North extremity of the group. These three groups are united to each other
by a reef, on which the sea breaks in somc; parts; in others only marked by
the greenish colour of the water.

ITie south-westernmost island, Ulul or Onooun, the Anonima of Ibargoitia,
is in lat. 8" 36' N., long. 149° 47' 30' E. Between it and Maghyr, the reef
consists of a series of submerged shoals. Captain Liitk^ did not land on these
islands, but was visited by numerous canoes. The population is about 50.

Manna^eu or Oray Feather Bank, which was stated by Chamisso to have
been found by Don Luis Torres in lat. 8" 20' N., long. 149°, and had 21 fa-
thoms water on it, was unsuccessfully sought for by Capt. Liitke in this posi-
tion. He sailed on this parallel as far as long. 148° without finding bottom
with 50 fathoms of line. The determination of the position of this bank is im-
portani:, as it may be an island or reef in course of formation. It is said that
the discoverer sailed for three entire days on it.

This bank, probably, was again seen by Captain McLaughlin, of the ship
Gray Feather, who fell in with discoloured water in 1851, and sounded in 19J
fathoms, coral bottom. From aloft the reef could be distinguished as of a cir-
cular form, 2i miles in circumference. Lat. 8° 9' N., long. 148° 44' E. — {Ann.
Ilyd., VII., p. 18.) This is 11 miles South of the older announcement, but it
is jjcrhaps not too great a discrepancy.

McLaughlin Bank is another reported bank of 4 fathoms, in lat. 9° 12' N,,
long. 148° 6' E. The German war-vessel Hertha passed near the positions of
McLaughlin Bank and Gray Feather Bank, but no indications of these dangers
were seen.

TAHATAH, or Los Marfires Islands, were seen by Duperrey. Thcv were
also visited, in 1870, by the German war-vessel Ilerlha, Captain Knorr, who

'^1

'I'fc'

998

THE CAROLINE ARCHIPELAGO.

I ■'.

found that the group consists of four islands nnd not three as previously sup-
posed. They are all small and low, with dangerous reefii jutting out from
them in all directions, only the two southern islands, named Tumatam, being
connected by a r«ef 6 miles in extent, East and West. The group extends
over a space 1 1 miles long. North and South, by about 6 miles in breadth.
The eastern Tamatam is in lat. 7° 27' 30" N., long. 149" 28 E. Fanudik, the
middle island, is about 4 miles N.N.W. of the western Tamatam, and is not
more than a quarter of a mile in diameter, but is surrounded by a reef. Olap,
the northernmost, is 7i miles N.E. of Fanadik, nnd is in lat. 7° 38' N., long.
149° 30' E. It is the largest of the group, and, like the others, surrounded by
dangerous reefs, extending 4 miles to the S.W. They are thinly populated,
and appear to be very lightly wooded. The largest and most abundant are
the cocoa-nut trees ; but the inhabitants are badly supplied with fruits. There
is but little inducement to visit these islands, the less so on account of the
reefs and dangers, the strong currents which set between them, and also from
the hostile and treacherous character of the natives. The population was
about 200.*

POLOAT, or Enderby Islands. — The latter name was given to a group by
Capt. Renneck, in 1826, in the service of the well-known noble merchants of
London. In 1799, Capt. Ibargoitia discovered an island, which he called Kata
Island; but Freycinet decided that it was in reality two islands, one of which
is called Pouloukot fPoloat or PozoatJ, and the other Alet, which is in lat.
7° 19' 25" N., long. 149° 16' E. They lie on a reef about 6 miles in extent,
East and West. The population was about 100.

Enderby Bank, a coral reef, with 7 fathoms water, lies 6 or 7 miles W.N.W.
of Alet. Uranie Bank lies the same distance E.N.E. of Poloat. Capt. Luser,
of the German brig Susanne, states that he sailed for 12 miles on an E. by
S. i S. course over it, obtaining soundings varying from 7 to 31 fathoms; the
position started from being at a distance of 7 miles E.N.E. of Pozoat, or in lat.
7^ 22', long. 149° 25'.

Tamesa or Susanne Beef.— In 1873, Capt. Jones, of the ship Tamesa, re-
ported that he passed very near the western side of a reef, on which the sea
was breaking heavily, in about lat. 7° N., long. 149° 10' E. In 1876, Captain
Liiscr also reported that a reef, having a few black rocks above water, was ob-

• Bi.ACKLOcK Shoal. — Captain Blacklock, of the ship Cowiemuhie, in 1861, reported a
shoal ut 20 miles E. by N. J N. from the Martires, in lat. 7" 35' N., long. 149° 38' E. He
saw the bottom quite diBtinctly, with casts of 7 futhoms on one side of the ship, and 15
f ithoms on the othor ; some of the coral heads appeared to him close to thd surface. He
sailed for 3 miles on an East course, cnrrying soundings of from 7 to 15 fathoms, then
Budd< nly 30, and no bottom at 100 fathoms. If the position of this shoal be correct, the
Murtires must have been considerably too far to the eastward on his chart, and it should
lie observed, tliat it would be impossible to see them at the distance reported by Captiia
niaiklouk.

SUK— PIKELOT— WEST FAIU.

009

previously sup-
itting out from
^iimalam, \wiug

group extends

les in breadth.

I'anadik, the

im, and is not

a reef. Olap,

38' X., long,
surrounded by
ily populated,
abundant are

fruits. There
Jcount of the
and also from
pulation was

a group by
nerclmnts of

called Aa/a
)ne of which
5l» is in lat.
'8 in extent,

es W.N.W.

^apt. Loser,

1 an E. by
thorns; the
t> or iu lat.

amesa, re-

ih the sea

1 Captain

r, was ob-

reporte,! a
16' E. Ha
>P) and 16
rface. He
loms, then
•rrect, the
it should
I' Captuia

nerved in lat. 7' 7' N., long. 149° 13 E., or about 12^ miles S. i W. from Alet.
The reef extended 1^ mile, N.N.W. and S.S.E., and the breadth was estimated
at half a mile.

SUK (Poulousouk, Sooughe), or Ihargoitia Island, was seen by Captain
Ibargoitia in 1799 and 1801. It was named Poulousouk (Pulo Suk) by Capt.
Freycinet, and was taken by Ibargoitia, though with no probability, for the
San Bartolome of Quiros, in 1597. Its position is about lat. 6° 40', long.
149° 23' E. It is of coral formation, covered with cocoa-nut trees, and similar
in size and appearance to Poulouhot. It is inhabited by a light-complexioned
race, about 100 in number. It is called Sooughe on Liitkc's chart. At 15 miles
to the East of it is a bank, seen by the vessel La Paz, in 1819.

Capt. Cheyne says : — I was told by the master of a whaler some years ago,
that a coral bank, with irregular soundings of from 10 to 30 fathoms, extends
from this island to the N.W., for a considerable distance, and terminafes in a
dangerous reef. The only idea he could give of the distance was, that when
abreast of the reef, the trees on Pulo-souk were just visible from the topsail-
yard. This danger requires confirmation ; but ships passing should be on their
guard, and keep a good look-out.

Lady Elgin or Irons Shoal. — A coral shoal was sailed over by Captain D.
Irons, of the Lady Elgin. The spot struck in 10 fathoms was in lat. 6^ 18' N.,
long. 149° 28' 30" E., from which a depth of 7i fathoms was carried for about
1 J mile to S.S.W., and then to N.N.W., when broken water was seen to North,
and clear water to West — {Naut. Mag., 1855, p. 278.) It may be the same as
La Paz Bank of 1819, which is placed at 25 miles to the northward.

Helene Beef. — In 1874, Capt. Leverson, of the German barque Helene, re-
ported the existence of a reef in about lat. 5° 30' N., long. 149° 10' E. The
reef, on which the sea was breaking, appeared to be about 8 miles long,
E. by S. and W. by N., and about a quarter of a mile broad. Captain
Siveright, of the barque Wandering Minstrel, also stated that he found a coral
bank, of 7 to 9 fathoms, in lat. 5° 32' N., long. 149° 13' E.

A bank of 13 fathoms has also been reported in lat. 4^ 13' N., long. 150° 15' E.
PIEELOT, or Coquille Islet.— This small islet was seen July 3, 1824, by
Capt. Duperrey. It was named after Duperrey's vessel by Krusenstern ; the
discoverer named it Bigali ; Liitke writes it Pigali or Pyghella, and places it
in lat. 8° 9' N., long. 147° 42' E. Don Luis Torres, who saw it and the adja-
cent island, names them Pigouelao and Faliao. It is not more than 300 yards
in diameter, and nearly level with the water's edge, and surrounded by a reef,
half a mile long. North and South. It is covered with a thick undergrowth of
bushes, and about fifty cocoa-nut trees. It is uninhabited.

WEST FAIU ISLET, in lat. 8° 3' N., long. 146° 60' E., that is, 52i miles
W. by S. of Pikelot, is a similar islet to '.t, both in size and character ; but the
reef extends over 2 miles eastward and westward of it, forming a lagoon on its
southern side. There is a high wood on the island, among which bread-fruit

■ •'■:

' *

f i

1000

THE CAROLINE ARCHIPELAGO.

trees were seen, but not a single cocoa-nut tree. It is also uninhabited. Tlicre
is another island of the same name to the eastward, before alluded to, which
has been named Liitko Island for distinction.

Oraitilipou Bank, seen by Don Luis Torrss, lies somewhere between these
two islets. It had but 1 1 fathoms over it, but was not found by Liitkc, after
a careful search. It is placed on the chart in lat. 8° 7' N., long. 147° 16' E.

Fikela or Lydia Island is marked on Capt. Duperrcy's chart in lat. 8° 38',
long. 147° 10' (147° 13'). Its existence may be considered as doubtful, but it
is mentioned in Dr. Gulick's list.

8ATAWAL (Setuahal), or Tucker Island, was seen by Capt. Wilson, in the
missionary ship Duff, October 25, 1793. Duperrey places it in lat. 7° 22' N.,
long. 147° 6' E. The i.sland is not more than 2 or 3 miles in circumference,
and the articles of subsistence it produces are supposed to be only fish, roots,
cocoa-nuts, and, perhaps, bread-fruit. When the Duff approached, some canoes
of natives (not a stout race) came ofiP, and two men. Tucker and Connelly, de-
serted here. Capt. Oheyne (1846) says that it may be approached within one-
quarter of a mile, as no hidden danger exists ; that it is of coral formation,
covered with cocoa-nut trees. It had about 200 inhabitants.

Swede Islands consist of three separate groups, that to the East being named
Lamotrek (Namurrek, or Namouttek) ; the middle group, Elato ; and the
N.W. group, Olimarao, or Namoliaour. They are most likely the islands named
Swede and Haweis Islands by Captain Wilson, of the Duff, 1793, the first on
accourt of a Swedish sailor of his, who was landed at his own request on one
of them. They were examined by Liitke.

LAMOTBEK (of Dr. Qulick), an atoll of triangular form, is 7 miles in ex-
tent, E.S.E. and W.N.W. Several islets stand on the reef, which encloses the
lagoon, the S.E. of which is in lat. 7° 27' N., long. 146° 30' E. The popula-
tion was about 200.

ELATO, or Haweis, is nearly on the same parallel as Lamotrek, in 7^ 30' N.,
long. 146° 19' E. This group consists of an uncovered reef, 4 J miles in length,
N.N.E. and S.S.W., and 8 cables in its greatest breath, with some islets, the
southern of which is called Falipi. On the chart of Cantova, nearly in this
spot, it is marked Bank of Falipi. Can this bank have become an island in
the interval of 100 years ? There is a port in the Elato group, and the vessels
sent from the Marianas to collect biche-de-mar always stop here. Ca])t. Liitke
could not find the entrance to the lagoon, which he was afterwards told was
on the eastern side, contrary to the usual law of coral reefs. The natives were
very shy, and would not visit his ship. The population is about 300.

ToasB. — At a little over a mile S.S.E. from Falipi is the northern end of a
smaller reef, on the South end of which are the islands named Namoliaoure
and Toass, the latter in lat. 7° 24' 30" N., long. 146° 19* E. This reef is about
1 J mile long, N.W. and S.E., and encloses a lagoon.

OLIMAEAO ISLES are two small islets, lying on the N.E. and S.W. ex-

ted. There
to, which

ween these
jiitkc, after

47° 16' E.
lat. 8° 38',

btful, but it

ilaon, in the
It. 7° 22' N.,

cumference,
fish, roots,

some canoes
;]!onnelly, de-
i within one-
ol formation,

being named
Uo ; and the
islands named
1, the first on
squest on one

7 miles in ex-

h encloses the

The popula-

k, in 7^30' N.,
liles in length,
)mc islets, the
nearly in this
le an island in
and the vessels
I. Capt. Liitke
wards told was
le natives were
It 300.

thern end of a
d Namoliaoure
kis reef is about

, and S.W. ex-

IFALIK— WOLEA.

1001

trcmities of a reef, discovered by Captain Liitke in 1828, Olimarao, the N.E.
islet, being in lat. 7" 43' 30" N., long. 145" 66' 45" E. The group is not moro
than 5 or 6 miles in circuit, aad had some timid inhabitants, who asked for
food. The natives are about 200 in number.

lanthe or Nile Shoal. — Two shoals have been announced as existing at 105
and 125 miles respectively distant from Ifalik or Wilson Island, in a south-
easterly direction. The first by the ship lanlhe, in 1845, as in lat. 5'^ 53' N.,
long. 145° 39' E. (Nattt. Mat/., 1846, page 265, and 1861, page 160); and the
second by the barque Nile, in 1860, as in lat. 6° 31', long. 115" 42', nearly on
the same met idian, but 22 miles apart.

The lanthe passed within one or two ships' lengths of the eastern edge and
the shoalest part of a ridge of sharp rocks (apparently not moro than 8 or 1
feet under water, the water of a milky whiteness) in soundings of probably 6
or 8 fathoms. The shoal appeared to extend 8. by E. and N. by W., about
half a mile. The lanlhe claims to have obtained, on the same day, a good
meridian altitude, and estimated the nearest land to have been distant 85 miles.
The Nile passed over a reef, with little room to spare, the rocks being plainly
seen on each side of the vessel, and the man aloft reported breakers on ono
side ; the barque was before the wind, and only u few minutes between the
rocks. Notwithstanding the great difference in the latitude, the two reports
refer probably to one and the same reef.

Should they be but one reef, the mean latitude would be 5° 42' N., otherwise
there may be a continuous reef, or series of reefs, between the above parallels.

IFALIK or Wilson Islands. — 'lliis is a small group, seen as (wo isles by
Wilson, in the Duff, in 1793. They were visited by Liitke, April 3, 1828,
and were found to consist not of two, but oi/our islets ; Ifalik (or Evalouk),
Moat, Ella, and Fararik, lying, as usual, on the edges of a lagoon about 5
miles in circumference. This group is more populous in proportion than the
others. The Seniavine was soon surrounded by twenty-five canoes, containing
at least a hundred natives, who were distinguished from all the rest of the
Caroliners by their clamorous disposition ; he had some little trouble from their
stealing propensities. Capt. Cheyne says there is a good boat passage through
the reef, on the South side of the group. The islets are covered with cocoa-
nut and bread-fruit trees. The S.E. point of the group is in lat. 7' 14' N.,
long. 144° 31' E. The population was about 200.

At 1 1 miles N.E. by N. of this group is a bank of 1 2 fathoms, with probably
less water.

• WOLEA or Ulie Islands.— Captain Wilson, in the Duff, 1793, discovered
a group, which he named the Thirlee?i Islands ; but when the minute cxaiiiiim-
tioii was made by Lieut. Zavalichine, Capt. Liitke's officer, it was found to
consist of twenty-two islands, the names of which are very well designated on
Captain Freycinet's chart, and by M. Chamisso. The name, as given on the
North Pacific. tj m

.:•!;;;-

IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)

1.0

I.I

1.25

tli Wi» |2.S

12.2

1^ m

2.0

1.4

— 6"

III

1.6

ff\

'^^^*
■^

Photographic

Sciences
Corporation

23 WEST MAIN STREET

WEBSTER, N.Y. 14SS0

(716) 873-4503

1002

THE CAROLINE AUCniPELAGO.

(

chart on a largo scale then drawn up, in Oulltay, in the narrative Ouleai, hj '
Dr. Gulick, as above.

From the observations made in the SMavine, the northern point of Jlaour,
the easternmost of the group, lies in lat. 7^21' 39' N., long. NS" 57' 30" E.

The charts of this group are a very good example of what exaggeration will
do to mislead the navigator. In the old charts this group occupies a space of
two or three deyreee in lont^'ttde. Capt. Frcycinet reduced it to eeventy tnilei;
but when the survey was made by Capt. Littke, it was found not to exceed six
nautic miles in extent.

The fatiguing uniformity of the coral islands has at least this advantage,
that one description serves for all. But the Wolea group differs from the
others in this respect. Its figure is very irregular; it has two projecting
angles to the North, and a deep indentation between them. According to the
usual hypothesis of formation, this figure cannot be explained but by supposing
that two independent groups were formed at the same time in this part The
ehannel of 12 yards, between the islands of Anyaliyarail and Farailet, seems
to mark their separation. The reef, which extends thence to the S.E., re-
unites abreast of Motoyozeu to the reef running from Raour Island, thus com-
pleting the eastern group ; at the same time a depth of 4^ fathoms, and the
reef extending East and N.E. from Felalis, marks the direction of the prolonged
reef, which would in time reach to Farailcs, and form the western group.

WoIea or Ouleai, properly so called, is advantageously distinguished not only
firom the rest of the group, but from the generality of coral islands. Its southern
side has : .ot the shoal which renders landing so difficult elsewhere ; but the
shore rises with a tolerably steep ascent, presenting an even, clean, sandy
bottom, on which every grain of sand may be seen through the transparent
water at the depth of several fathoms. The interior of the island is pleasant ;
it is a wood intersected in all directions by footpaths, and dotted with cleared
spots, where you meet with isolated houses. Unlike the generality of coral
islands, when you advance only a few steps from one shore, and then reach
the opposite, it occupies a large space, on which fine bread-fruit trees havo
sufficient room to form a sort of park. It occupies the N.E. angle of the group,
and is of an irregular triangular form, three-quarters of a mile in diameter.
Its North extreme is in lat. 7° 23' 30" N., long. 143° 57' E.

Palliou /«/an(/ extends from its S.E. extremity in a nearly true South direc-
tion, and is nearly connected with Jtaour Island, the south-easternmost of the
group, the two together being 1 i mile in length.

On the western side of Kaour, off the North part of which the Siniav%.it an-
chored, are four or five artificial harbours, such as had not been seen in any
other part of the Carolines. A jetty of large stones ran out for 100 yards into
the sea, and at each side of its extremity another line of stones, projecting at
an angle of about 60°, so that the whole has something the form of an anchor.
From the South end of Ilaour the reef projects nearly half a mile ; and between

EAUEir I K— PORAULEP.

1003

>u/«ii, bj

but the

it and Tagoilap Island, 2 miles to the W.N.W., is Motogottu Met, which is
very smnll, and, like all the rest, surrounded by a reef, so that the anchorage
in the eastern group has two entrances, one on oach side of Motogomu.

Felalutt or Falalit Island, the S.W. of the group, lies 2 miles to the 8.W.
of Tngoilap. Between it and Motogozeu there are some detached coral patches.
The reef runs to the N.W. three-quarters of a mile from Folalisse, leaving n
navigable opening into the Ugoon between it and Falulap or Faluellap, a small
islet, one of a group which extends N.N.W. and North, Ifmile, to Oulemeray,
the N.W. island of the group. Thence the chain is continued through Seliap*
and some smaller islands to E.S.E., to Farailesse, between which and Lanya-
liifaraiU is the very narrow but navigable channel before alluded to, forming
a northern entrance to the lagoon.

Captain Cheyne says — This group is well inhabited by a light copper-
complexioned race, who, although friendly in appearance, should not be trusted,
llicir weapons consist of Spanish knives, spears, clubs, slings, and stones.
Their canoes are similar in shape to the proa of the Mariana Islands. They
perform voyoges to Guam, and the other Caroline Islands in them. Their food
consists of cocoa-nuts, bread-fruit, taro, bananas, sugar-cane, and fish. Ships
holding intercourse with these natives should not allow any of them on deck.
Dr. Oulick says the population was about 600.

EATJBIPIK, or Eourypyg, is a small group, composed of only two islets,
lying on a reef 2^ miles long, N.V/. and S.E. Liitkc, who passed along its
northern side, had no communication with the inhabitants whom he saw stand-
ing on the beach, consequently could gather no particulars of it. It bos a
lagoon. Their existence was then established, though on Arrowsmith's chart
two islands are placed nearly in the same position, stated to have been seen by
Capt. Hunter, in 1791 ; there is no notice of this given in his narrative. Their
position is lat. 6" 40' N., long. 143° 10' E. Copt. Cheyne, who visited them
in September, 1844, calls them the Kama Islands. The population amounted
to about 150; now it is only about 50. The islets produce nothing but
cocoa-nuts.

Earl Dalhonsie Shoal, in lat. 8° 4' N., long. 145" 5' E., about 60 miles
N.E. by N. \ N. from Ifalik, has a depth of 19 fathoms on it, coral bottom.

70BATILEP (Farrojlap or Faitoilnp) was in reality first discovered by
Liitkc, Murch 28, 1828. Such an islund is stated to have been seen by Don
L. Torres, but it had been placed at hazard on all charts previous to its position
being fixed as lat. 8° 36' N., long. 144° 3G' £.* It is a sniall group, not more
than 4 miles in circuit, and composed of three islets, with a lagoon on heir

* It is rather tinKular that Ciipt. Wilkes iihouM state this island to be in lat. 10° 45' N.,
long. 146° 27' E., from tho chart*. Tho Flying Fi»h consuiiuently piisaed over thin position
without Bi'ving any indiciition of land: tho iama with Fois Uluii.—A'arrativ* e/lhs UniUd
Statei' Fiploring Exptdition, vol. v., p. 271.

wmm

1004

THB CABOLINB ARCHIPELAQO.

Ill

Wi>st side. The group cannot afford much for resouroos. Ito population was
about sixty able men in 1828. It is now uninhabited, according to Dr. Oulick,
who calls it Oardner Iilund.

ORIMES ISLAND. — From a report in the China Mail, Captain Qrimes, of
the ship y<an, discovered, in 1841, a high and well- wooded island, of 6 miles
in circumference, in lat. 9° 16' N., long. 145° 43' £. It was again seen, in
1855, by Capt. Vice, of the French ship Chilis in lat. 0° 17', long. 145° 11' ;
the descriptions entirely agree, and differ quite from Farroilep. It has since
been announced as High Island, in lat. 9° 11', long. 145° 45', so that the latter
position is probably nearly correct; the mean of the three positions is lat.
9° 15', long. 145° 33'. It is not included in Dr. Gulick's list.

80R0L or Philip hlandi are two small groups of islands, both seen by
Capt. Hunter, in 1791. The easternmost is the largest, lying 5 miles from the
westeiTimost, and in lat. 8° 6' N., long. 140° 3' E. There were about 20 in-
habitants.

FAI8 or Tromelin I$land.— In 1828, Captain Lcgoaront do Tromelin dis-
covered a very small low isluud in lat. 9° 52 N., long. 140° 42' E., to which
Admiral Krusenstem gave bis name. It is Raid that it is 5 miles long and 2
miles broad. Capt. Liitke examined it in 1828, and places it in lat. 9° 46' N.,
long. 140° 35' E., calling it Feit or Fttft. The size he mentions is also very
different from Capt. Tromelin. He saya : — This island is remarkable, because
it is the only one of the Carolines that has no lagoon ; it is formed of madre-
porio rocks, 30 ft. high, against which the sea beats immediately, and is /our
vertti (2} miles) in circumference. There is no anchorage in any part. On
the South side, where the coast is sandy, there is less surf. Landing was very
difficult here, and the natives were not so good sailors as in any other island
of the archipelago. Bread-fruit trees were rare, but bananas were in tolerable
abundance. The population was about 300.

ULITHI or Mackenzie Island: — This group was discovered by the Spanish
navigator Ego'i, and was seen, in 1823, by Captain Mackenzie, who gave some
notice of it in the Asiatic Journal for June, 1824. It was partially examined
by Capt. Liitke, who states that the native name is Ouluthy.

It was on the northern one of the g^oup, Mogmog, that the Spanish Jesuit,
Padre Cantova, was killed on his second visit to the Carolines. This was during
the endeavours to establish Catholic missions throughout the archipelago.
When Capt. Liitke passed Falalep, ou which the mission was planted, he was
unable to land ; which is to be regretted, as it would have been interesting to
learn the result of the missionaries' devotedness after the lapse of a century.

The Islands Mogmog, Falalep, and others, on which was the Spanish mission,
nrc at the N.E. part of the group. The whole is of great extent, and consists
of low coral islands, covered with cocoa-nut trees, and connected by coral reefs,
forming a largs lagoon inside, with many good passages through the reef lead-
ing into it. This group is thickly populated by a light-coniplexioncd rncc,

ULITHI-EAP OR YAP.

1005

Ktion was
Ouliok,

llriine*, of
|f 6 miles
svcn, in
1146" II';
■ has since

the latter
pns is lat.

seen by
from the
but 30 in-

melin dis-

to which

mg and 2

9° 46' N.,

I also very

e, because

of madre-

nd is /our

part. On

S was very

thcr island

n tolerable

ic Spanish
gave some
examined

ish Jesuit,
vas during
chipclago.
(d, he was
'resting to
lentury.
\x mission,
d consists
oral reefs,
rcvf lead-
ucd rncoj

whose manners and customs ore similar to those of the other Caroline islanders.
These natives, although apparently mild and friendly to a stranger, are by no
means to be trusted, as one or two Manila vessels were cut off at this group
many years ago.

The two small idands on the eastern group. Ear and Khilap or Hitlap, are
connected by a reef to each other and to some others beyond them. These isles
arc inhabited, and firom them a shoal extends for 15 miles to the S.E. The
bottom was distinctly visible on its outer edge from the Siniavine, but some
natives who approached said there was no danger in approaching these islands,
though their notions of such danger might be very different from ours.

The western group, which is about 21 miilts in extent. North and South, is
formed of a great number of small islands (the chief of which are Mogmog or
Moguemogue, Troilem, Falalep, &c.), united together by coral recfe. The two
groups are separated by a channel 8 miles broad, into which Captain Liitke
entered as far as the middle. The U.S. schooner Flying Fish entered the la-
goon with not less than 7 fathoms on the bar, and procured some fish and cocoa-
nuts from the natives, who were about 200 in number.

The S.W. point of the eastern group, which may be taken as the centre of
all the islands, is in lat. 9° 56' N., long. 139° 50' E. ; and the island Mogmog,
the northernmost of the western group, is in lat. 10° 6', long. 139" 45' 30".

SamosBMf. — In 1875, the captain of the American barque <S'amo« anuoimccd
a dangerous reef in lat. 10^ 37' N., long. 139° 30' E. — Annalta Hydrographiquet,
1875, p. 273.

SAP or Tap ( Uap or Guap) has been seen by many navigators, both in
early times and more recently. The Padre C ntova give^ it a circumference
of 40 leagues, but it is not nearly so extensive. It is frequently made bv ships
taking the eastern passage to China, and is also called Unawb by Capt Hors-
burgh. It was visited by the German war- vessel Uerthay in 1876, and by
Il.M.S. E*piigle, in 1883.

At a distance it assumes the appearance of two or three islands, and when
nearer it seems like a group of islands contiguous to each other, the whole en-
compassed by a chain of black rocks. This deception probably caused Capt.
John Hunter, who passed it in 1791, to place three islands in this situation.

It differs fi-um other islands of the Caroline group, being larger, with a
different soil, and probably of volcanic origin ; its northern part is deeply in-
dented. It is surrounded by a coral reef, about 25 miles in extent, N.K. by N.
anil S.W. by S., with an average breadth of about 5 miles ; a narrow spit ex-
tends about 5 miles S.W. by W. from the S.W. point of the island, some of
the black rocks appearing just above water near its extremity. The southern
part of the island is low, and covered with underwood, above which rise
numerous cocoa-nut trees ; the northern half is traversed by a ridge of hills,
its highest point attaining on altitude of 1,170 ft.
The island has a pleasing aspect from the sea, being interspersed with many

«j

Ill

lii

1006

THE CAROLINE ARCHIPELAGO.

houaM. It U not oovercd with wood, but many parts appear luxuriant, and
abound in ooooa-nut tre«8. At the time oi the Htrtha't visit, it was under
the rule of five chiefs, to whom tribute wo* paid by the western Caroline
Islonds, as for eastward as the Wolea group. There were also a few white
settlers, acting as agents for Oerman traders, towards whom the conduct of the
natives was reported to be peaceable.

The northern islet is in Ut 9° 87' N., long. 138° 8' E. ; the Souih point is
in lat 9° 20", long. 138° 1'.

Tomil Bay. — Gapt. Cheyne says :— It is possessed of an excellent harbour
on the S.E. side, formed in an angle of the coast, by reefs. The entrance,
which is through the reef, is about 200 3rards wide, and can easily be made
out from the mast-head when standing along the reef When inside the
channel widens, and trends more to the northward. The anchorage at the
head of the harbour, off the village of Tomal, is perfectly safe, the holding
ground good, and the depth of water modenite. Entrance Rock, on the West
side of the entrance, is in lat 9° 2d' 5" N., long. 138° 11' 45" E., according to
Capt Blohm, 1871, but later observations place it 5' farther to the eastward.

The South part of the island is low, but it rises into hills towards the centre,
which is moderately elevated. It is visible 24 to 27 miles, and makes in three
hummocks, which would lead a stranger passing to mistake it for three islands.
There is very little wood inland. The shore in many places is lined with man-
groves, and the low lands between the villages ore covered with small wood.
The cocoa-nut tree is very abundant, particularly on the Bouthem part. The
villages are situated near the shore amongst groves of cocoa-nut, bread-fruit,
and betel-nut trees. In consequence of the scarcity of large timber, the na-
tives get their proas built at the Pallou Islands, which they frequently visit.

The natives are an able-bodied race, well formed, and of a light copper com-
plexion. They are more advanced in civilization than any of the other Caro-
line islanders ; their villages being regularly laid out in streets, which are neatly
paved. They have also well-constructed stone wharves and piers. Each village
has a large paved square, where the chiefs assemble for consultation. Captain
Cheyne remained here seven weeks in 1843, collecting biche-de-mor.

The natives are of a treacherous disposition, and have out off several Manila
vessels which had gone there to collect biche-de-mar. The chiefs confessed to
Capt. Cheyne, of the Naiad, that they had taken two Spanish vessels ; the last
one having a crew of fifty Manila men, who were all massacred. The tribe at
the harbour had also formed a conspiracy to cut them off. However, they now
appear to be more tnistworthy, but caution is advisable. Dr. Gulick says that
the population was about 2,000; later estimates moke it about 8,000.

Sailing vessels should not enter Tomil Harbour without a pilot ; the services
of Captains Halcomb or O'Kcefe can bo obtained by heaving-to outside. The
pier off Tomil is a good landmark. A rock having only 12 ft. water on it, was
reported to lie off the cutraucc, about 5 cables E. ^ S. from £Iutrunce Uuck.

YAP— NGOLI.

1007

luxuriant, and
I it was under
Item Caroline
t a few white
Bonduot of the

ouih point is

Ilent harbour
rhe entrance,
aily bo mado
m inside the
lorage at the
the holding
on the West
according to
9 eastward.
Is the centre,
»kes in three
;hree islands.
k1 with man-
small wood.
I part. The
bread-fruit,
bcr, the na-
ently vbit.
copper com-
other Caro-
Bh are neatly
Ekich village
>n. Captain
Jr.

'eral Manila
confessed to
?l8 ; the last
rhe tribe at
r, they now
ik says that
0.

bhe services
teide. The
r on it, was
iMce Hock.

It is high water, on fu'' nnd change, at 7" 15"; springs rise 4^ tt.— Captain
Bridge UiA Lieut. Ommanney, H.M.S. Etpiiifle, 1883.

Capt. Ilolcomb, an American, resident several years at Yap, and a navigator
in the neighbouring seas, states that typhoons and cyclonic storms are un-
known in Yap. The N.E. trade blows with tolerable freshness and steadiness
front the beginning of October to the end of May. The S.W. mon«)on pre-
vails during June, July, and August, but is frequently broken by short spells
of easterly winds. Rain falls occasionally all the yeitr round, but the rainy
season is between the beginning of Juno and the beginning of September.
The climate was described as being remarkably pleasant. Though hurricanes
are unknown, strong S.W. gales generally blow towards the close of the S.W.
monsoon season, late in August or September. This is also the season of very
light winds, when sailing vessels get about amongst the islands with di£Sculty.

Hunter Beef is a narrow coral reef, over which Capt. John Hunter passed
in the Waaitamheydt, July 17th, 1791. He had 16 fathoms water when on
it, and saw the bottom very distinctly. It extends nearly North and South,
and is about 23 miles N.N.E. of Yap. Lat. 9° 57^' N., long. 138" 22' E. It
was reported to lie 9 miles farther to the westward.

HGOU, or Matelotat Islands. — The first notice of these islands was given
by Yillalobos, who discovered them in 1545, but it would appear that they had
been previously visited, for the inhabitants approached holding up a cross, and
calling Buenat diaa Matelotat, from which their name was given. On Copt.
Liitke's chart they are called the Western Lamoliaour Group ; Dr. Qulick
says Latnoliork Islands ; and they have been called Goulou hlanda. They
were seen, in 1796, by Admiral Rainier, in the Suffolk, who gave them the
name of Spencer Keys.

The Ngoli or Matelotas group is composed of three (or five) small, low, and
wooded islands, connected by reefs and sand-banks. The two northern oni<s
bear from each other N.E. i E. and S.W. } W., and it is dangerous to approach
them in the night, as a coral reef projects 2 leagues to the northward of the
N.E. island, having in some places high breakers. The northern islet, how-
ever, is stated to be 150 ft. high. On January 3rd, 1798, Cpptain Moring, in
Che ship Duckingfield Hall, had great difiiculty in weathering the group. He
says : — " How far the reefii may extend to the westward I cannot pretend to
■ay, but they stretched farther than we could see on a clear day. The distance
from the northernmost to the southernmost island is about 6 leagues." In
1843 the South island was inhabited, but the population did not amount to
more than thirty-five souls, who lived entirely on cocoa-nuts and fish. The
population of the group is about 100.

Capt. Cheyne thus describes them : — The South islet, which has cocoa-nut
trees, and a few inhabitants on it, is in lat. 8° 17' N., long. 137° 33' E. From
this to the N.E. islet, which is in lat. 8° 35', long. 137° 40', the reef on the
easterr side is at some distance from the South islet, in detached patches, on

, I

! I

1) !

I i

lOOB

PALAU OR PELEW ISLA-IDS.

whioh the sea doea not break with a westerly wind. The reef extends A miles
in a northerly direction from the N.E. islet ; and its North extreme is in lat.
8° 4r N. Tha western islet lies in a S.W. by W. direction from the N.3. one,
and is also surrounded by dangei-ous reeb. Their extent to the West and
N.W. ' is . .ot been ascertained, but they probably connect the islets. There
is a paSk^*ge on the N.W. side of the South islet leading to the lagoon, but the
anchorage inside, if any, would be very unsafe. This is a most dangerous
group, and should have a good berth in passing, particularly in haxy weather,
or dark nights, as the islets cannot be seen above 10 or 11 miles in cleai- day-
light, and strong currents often prevail in their vicinity. The southern islet is
safe to approach on th« South side, as no hidden dangers exist.*

PALAU OB PELEW ISLANDS.

There is no doubt but that these islands are the same as the Arrccifos of
Villalobos, in 1545. According to the Spanish missionaries, Padres Clura and
Oantova, the native name is Paulogue; other authorities call them Palaoi,
Pally, or Pallou. In the charts made by Capt. Macluer they are called PelUw.
But the name by which they were generally known is Pelew, which, though
not exactly correct, has for this reason been retained.

We acquired a more particular knowledge of these isles and their inhabit-
ants from the ^reck uf the Antelope packet, Capt. Wilson, which was lost upon
the coast in 1783. "The captain," says an intelligent writer, "found the
natives delicate in their sentiments, friendly in their disposition, and, in short,
a people that do honour to the human race. The astonishment which those
who first discovered the English manifested on seeing their colour, plainly
showed that they had never before seen a white man. The country is well
covered with timber trees, the trunks of which furnish the natives with canoes,
some large enough to carry thirty men. Yams and cocoa-nuts, being their
c^ief articles of subsiptence, ore attended to with the utmost care. They have
also the bread-fruit tree, oranges, lemons, and other fruits. The men go en-
tirely naked ; the women nearly so. The conduct of these people towards the

• Wmneiek ItUmd, a whsler'a report, in lat. 4* 24' N., long. ISff* 36' E., requires oon-
firmstion. It may refer to Fulo Msriire, nearly 4° to the westward.

In 1877, Captain Bamaby, of the U.S. barque Qitukttep, reported that he saw what ap-
peared to be a shoal, the sea breaking over it in white foam, extending E.N.E. and W.S. W.
{or about 1^ mile, and apparently about an eighth of a mile wide. The position assignoif
to these breakers was lat. 4* 18' N., long. 136<> 21' E., whioh is very close to that of
Warwick Island. This position was passed over by H.ltl.8. Etpi^gU . 1883, but no signs
of shoal water were seen in the vidnity, and no bottom ooald be obtained with 50 &thoms
of line.

tends A miles
me is in lat.
the N.3. one,
he West and
uleU. There
igoon, but the
lost dangerous
laiiy weather,
s in cle»i' day-
luthem islot is

10 Arrccifos of
idrcs Clura and
them Palaos,
3 called PelUw.
which, though

I their inhabit-
h was lost upon
jer, "found the
11, and, in short,
nt which those
colour, plainly
country is well
Tcs with canoes,
uts, being their
u-e. They have
!he men go en-
iple towards the

E., requires oon-

b he saw what ap-
.N.E.andW.8.W.
position Msxgaoi
y close to that of
883, bnt no eig^s
Ml with 60 fikthoms

PALAU OR PELEW ISLANDS.

1000

English was nniformly courteous and attentive, accompanioU with a politeness
which surprised those who were the objects of it"

Capt. Cheyne says : — The Pallou natives ore quite a distinct raee ftom the
Caroline islanders. They are of a much darker complexion, less robust gene*
rally, and of smaller stature, but a great deal more intelligent, and polished in
their manners.

Capt. Robertson, in his memoir of 1705, has verj' justly censured the officers
of the Antelope for not having given, in any ])artof their narrative, the smallest
information, or " said one single word, whether it was possible for a ship to
anchor amongst, or r'nr, any of these islands;" nnd he observes thnt the only
piece of nautical infunnation he could find was the general description of their
limits, which ho has shown to be grossly erroneous. Capt. Robertson snys that
tho group " is a distinct range or chain of islands, extending 28 leagues in
length, N.N.E. and S.S.W., but in breadth very narrow; they are of moderate
height, small in sise, Lad in number almost innumerable. In the Vaniitlart,
1781, I had an opportunity of exactly determining their southern extremity
and eastern direction ; wc fell in with that side, and stood on to the N.N.W.,
thinking to weather them. After getting sight of tho northern islands, the
wind changed more northerly, which even prevented us from being able to
weather the island wc at first took to be the northernmost, but which we found
was not so ; therefore, judging it impracticable to get to windward, without a
great loss of time, we wore and stood to the southward, coasting along the
islands, at the distance of about 4 or 5 leagues from the East side ; rounded
tho southernmost, at the distance of 3 leagues ; from which wc took a departure,
allowing the latitude, by a good meridian altitude, to be G° 56' N. ; the
northernmost island I make to lie in lat. 8° 9" N. As to their longitude, I urn
not quite so certain ; there is such a discordancy in all tho accounts, that it is
impossible for me to determine exactly. I had expected much satisfactory and
authentic nautical information respecting these islands from Wibon's accounc
of them, published by Mr. Keato ; but in that I was sadly disappointed, there
being not one useful remark, throughout the whole book, that could possibly
be of the smallest utility to a seaman."

A sketch of the southern range of these islands, by Lieut. John Macluer,
was published by Mr. Dalrymple, in 1791, and in 1876 a partial survey of the
group was niado by Capt. Knorr, of the German war-vessel Herlha, from which
authorities some of the following description is derived.*

The circumstance by which this group and its history are made most familiar
to English readers, is the account of Prince Lee Boo, who was brought over
from thence by Capt. Wilson, after the wreck of the Antelope, August 9, 1783.
He was the second son of Abba lliuUe, the king, and on his arrival in EngUnd

North Pacific.

* Annalen der UydrograpliiOi 187C, Ucft vii.

I ;

i I

;t.

1010

PALAU OR PELEW ISLANDS.

eviiuMd such an aptitude for all civilized relatione, with luch an excellent dui«
position, that hie death, from imallpox, which occurred December 27, 1784,
when he was twenty years old, was felt throughout England with lively sensa-
tion. He was buried in Rotherhithe churchyard, near its N.W. ongle, he
hnTUg died in that parish. The East India Company erected the vault over
bis remains.*

In the Supplement to the Voyage of the Antelopt an account is given of the
Tisit of the ships Panther and Endeavour, which were sent out there with the
intelligence of Prince Leo Boo's death. In this portion, too, is the account of
Lieut. Macluer's residence in the group. The whole of these narratives place
the natives in a most amiable light. But there is a dark side to the picture ;
whether from the innate evil of the uncultivated savage, or, what is more pro-
bable, from the aggressions of foreign ships touching there, their fame has been
sullied by treachery. The Syren, whaler, Capt. Coffin, was nearly cut off here,
March 21, 1823, on passing the southernmost island. They came on board,
100 in number, apparently friendly ; but watching an opportunity, they at-
tacked the crew, and were only repulsed after desperate fighting, during which
most of the crew, thirty-seven in number, were wounded, and two officers
killed. In 1880, a British schooner was stated to have been pillaged by tho
natives.

Captain Ibargoitia remained under easy sail for five days, in 1801, off the
islands, and gives ns good an account of the natives, with whom he had con-
tinual communication, as does Capt. Wilson ; they most disinterestedly brought
off to him fish, cocoa-nuts, bananas, and various roots. Ho says that Coror
Islaud is the only one where you con anchor ; but ho was prevented doing so
by winds and currents.

Wind*. — The N.E. monsoon blows here from September or October to April
or May, usually between N.E. and East ; S.E. winds, however, ore not un-
common in the vicinity of the islands.

Revolviny Storm*, supposed to be the tail ends of typhoons, are said by
white residents to occur in the Pelew group at intervals of from 10 to 12 years.
They have been experienced as early as August, and may be encountered up
to November.— H.M.S. Espiigle, 1883.

The group, which consists of six greater and a number of smaller islands,
extends for a distance of 85 miles, about N. by E. and S. by W. ; its greatest
breadth is not more than 7 miles ; but taking into account the surrounding
reefs, this breadth would be trebled. There are several passages through this
reef, as shown on the chart. Tare and a few pigs and goats may be purchased
from the natives. The latter are about 3,000 in number.

* An Account of the Pelow laluub, from the Journula of Captain Henry Wilaon, by
George Keute, 4to., 1788; also a Supplement to the foregoing:, by J. P. Uovkin, M.A.,
4to., 1808.

KAJANOLE ISLES— BADELTHUAP.

1011

ezeellont du<

rmber 27, 1784,

ith lively Mnta-

N.W. angle, he

the vault over

\t is given of the

t thero with the

> the account of

narratives place

to the picture ;

hat is more pro-

nr fame has hecn

irly cut off here,

came on board,

rtunity, they at>

ng, during which

and two officers

pillaged by tho

in 1801, off the
lom he had con-
jrestedly brought
says that Coror
evented doing so

October to April
;ver, are not un-

Mns, are said by
>m 10 to 12 years.
3 encountered up

if smaller islands,
W. ; its greatest
; tho surrounding
ages through this
may be purchased

I Henry WiImd, by
r. P. Uockin, M.A.,

It appears, like Yap Island, to be of volcanic origin, nnd consists of six largo
blands, which, reckoning from tho southward, are called Angaur, Pililu, Eil
Malk (formerly called Earakong or Irakong), Urukthapcl, Korror, and Babel-
thuap, with numerous islets of smaller size, these latter sometimes rising {icr-
pendioularly to a height of 600 ft. Babelthuap is by far the largest island,
containing an area equal to all tho rest put together, 'ilic only island not
surrounded with coral reef is Angaur, which is detached, and the southernmost
of the group.

When the German war-vessel Hertha was herp in 1 876, the native popula*
tion was divided into twelve tr bes, the greater number residing in Babelthuap,
headed by a chief called Bupak. Of the existing kings, tho Erani of Korror,
and the Erani of Artingal seemed most potvcrful, but they were in constant
feud with each other, and failed to recognise the supreme power of the Spanish
Government. The principal occupation of the men, when not at war, is fish-
ing ; the women cultivating the soil. The only export was trcpang, in exchange
for old guns, ammunition, hardware, blankets, ond spirits. Tortoise-shell of
late years has become scarce.

K^jangle Isles. — The northern limits of the group consist of four or five
small islands, the largest of which is called Kyangle or Kajangle, about \\
mile long, and very narrow, ito centre in lat. 8° 2' 30" N., long. 134' 38' 30" £.
It was called Moore hit by Capt. Douglas, in 1788. Three others, off its
South end, arc called Arayonzet, Carapellas, and Korack, These islands are
surrounded by a reef, whose diameter is 4^ miles North and South, and nearly

5 miles East and West. Capt. Douglas, of the Iphiyenia, otates that he saw
two other low or sandy isles at 8 miles West of Moore Island, which he calls
Good Look-out Islands, portions of the reef which dry in Maelucr's chart.

Ngarnangl Beef, 11 miles to tho N.W. ^ W. of Kajangle, is of a most
dangerous character. It was formerly supposed to be very extensive, having
been reported to extend as fur as lat. 8° 45', and thence to the West farther
than the eye could reach. It is now stated to be of a triangular shape, about

6 miles in circumference.

Kossol Reef, the North point of which is about 2 miles South of the South
point of Kajangle Reef, is about 7 miles long, N.N.E. and S.S.W., and 2^
miles in greatest width, the passages North and South of it having depths of
10 to 20 fathoms, sand and coral bottom. At 4 miles westward of its South
end is a reef, apparently half the size of Kossol Reef, marked by heavy breakers.
The channel between Kossol Reef and the reef extending northward of Babel-
thuap Island is about 6 miles wide.

Babelthuap, Boubelthouap, or Baoheltaoh (the upper sea, in the Felew lan-
guage), is the largest of the Pelcw Islands, and is 20 miles long. North and
South. In its northern part, in lat. 1" 36^', is Mount Aremolunguj, 1,968 ft.
high, from the summit of which Lieut. Macluer could see the whole group.
Cape Artingal, its N.E. extremity, lies in lat. 1^ 40^' N., long. 134« 38^' £.,

"fi-- Tn<w«»»"»('-»(«ni34

np*

(

I i

1013

PALAU OR PELEW ISLANDS.

and just to tlio southward of it it tho Tillage of Molegojok, with a long stono
pier reaching nearly to tho edge of the reef.

It is (or was) divided into several distriota, of which ArtingaUt Emmilagui,
and Emevingi, are tho most considerable. Three small islands, Arleek, Kattou,
and Oorokoo, lie near the North point of the island ; and an island of con-
■iderablo length, North and South (with rocky islets along its East side), lies
on the S.E. side of the South point, from which it is separated by a Ti7ry narrow
channel. The East side of Uabelthuap is fronted by a barrier reef, whioh oom«
mcnoes off the South point of the above island, and about 2 miles S.E. by E.
from the East point of Corror. The long 'detached reef, which forms Armijt*
toakl Passage, or Neto Harbour, lies outsiie of this In Lieut. Macluer's plon,
1703, there oppears to be good anchorage in New Harbour; but Malacknn
Harbour is the best, and tho only one whioh should be resorted to by trading
vessels. The barrier trends along the coast in a N. by E. direction to lat.
7° 36' N., where its distance frjm the shore is 4 or 5 miles. At Cape Artingal
it is about 1 ^ mile distant, and westward of this it approaches close to the
shore, and then turning northward, reaches 4^ miles from the North end of
the island. These reefs must be approached with great care, as they arc re-
ported to be incorrectly charted.

Corror, or Korror, is separated from the South end of Babclthuap by a
channel thrce-quarters of a mile broad, with 13 to 14 fathoms in it. It is 3^
miles in length, N.E. and S.W. ; and its greatest breadth,. which is near the
N.E. end, is 2^ miles. Olukaakel, a long, narrow, rocky island, lies close to
its South side, and three others near its West point, the smallest and south-
easternmost of the three being named Malackan. Corror has a tolerably high
peak, by which it can be distinguished when outside the reef.

Malaokan Harbour.— Between Oluksakel and the N.E. part of Urukthapel,
is a good harbour, the entrance to which is through two narrow openings in
tho reef,, or coral flat, which extends from Urukthapel to the South angle of
Oluksakel. One channel passes close to the S.W. side of Oluksakel, and the
other is over a mile to the S.W., the latter being the proper entrance channel,
having a depth of 10 to 5 fathoms. There are one or two coral patches in the
harbour. The best anchorage is close to the East side of Malockan, in 15
fathoms, where there is a small run of excellent fresh water. According to
the surrey by Mr. Qravener, of H.M.S. Sphinx, 1862, the pier on the East side
of Malackan is in lat. 7° 10' N., long. 134° 31' 46" E. When off Channel Point,
the N.E. point of Urukthapel, and passing the reef to tho north-eastward of it,
vessels should keep on the eastern side of the channel, this part carrying tho
deepest water. In the narrow part of the channel the tides set directly through,
and outside it they attain considerable strength.

Corror Harbour, to the eastward of the reef off the bluff East point of
Urukthapel, and fronting the passages to the above harbour, is a space nearly
6 miles in length, N.E. and S.W., where there is a bank of soundings, extend'

CORROR— URUKTHAPEL.

1013

with a long stone

•ngall, Emmtlagui,
Is, Arteeky Kattou,
an island of con-
its East side), lies
?d by a Ti?ry narrow
r reef, which com-
miles S.U. by E.
ich forms Armijt*
ut. Maclucr's plan,
ur; but Malackan
rted to by trading
i. direction to lat.
. At Cape Artingal
aches close to the
the North end of
'e, as they are re-

f Babelthuap by n
>ms in it. It is 3^
.which is near the
sland, lies close to
imallest and south-
aas a tolerably high
!ef.

part of Urukthapel,
larrow openings in
the South angle of
Oluksakel, and the
T entrance channel,
coral patches in the
}f Malackan, in 15
iter. According to
»ier en the East side
1 off Channel Point,
lorth-eastwnrd of it,
I part carrying the
let directly through,

bluff East point of
ir, is a space nearly
' soundings, extend*

isg about 3 miles from the shore, on which there is good anchorage, but having
■omo oornl patches on its eastern itide. A ship may anchor in about 13 fathoms
with the following bearings, where she will have plenty of room to get under
weigh with any wind : — Mnlackan Peak, N. W. by N. i N. ; the southern
passage through the reef leading to Malackan Harbour, N.W. ^ W. ; and the
EMt extreme of the islands south-eastward of Babelthuap, N.E. ^ N. Inshore
of this the water deepens to 20 fathoms.

The channel between the South end of Babelthuap and Corror is three-
quarters of a mile wide, and is navigable from sea, round the East and North
■ides of Corror, to the King's village, near its western point, with a depth of
from 10 to 25 fathoms in it; but on account of a reef lying to U eastward of
Corror, fronting the entrance, and several coral patches within ;li . . reef, it is
too intricate a passage for a stranger to attempt.

The Island of Coror, although small, is the most imp' i ant of 'he group,
being the neat -f government. The king and chiefs arc most frien'Uy a\i.l hos-
pitable to I'ureigners, pan ticularly to the English, who will rccr Ivo every pro-
t 'on while within the limits of their jurisdiction. Abbn iiiulle, the king,
nominally claims sovereignty over the whole group ; but it is only by force of
arms that he is able to uphold his supremocy. The inhabitants of the northern
and eastern 'listricts of Babelthuap do not acknowledge his authoriiy, and are
often at war with Corur. Vessels trading here should not dispose of fire-arms
to any but the Coror people. — Cheyne.

In 1833, H.M.S. Eapilglt passed inside the reef North of Corror Island, and
anchored off the villages of Ackashar and Molegojok. The reefs arc very im-
perfectly known, and the coral heads inside them numerous, some of them
being exceedingly small. Off Ackashar, which is 1^ mile South of Molegojok,
there is a narrow and intricate passage through the reef, and about 4 miles
farther to the southward there is a good and safe opening.

Urukthapel, to the South of Corror, is of a very irregular form, its greatest
extent being 5| miles, E.S.E. nnd W.N.W. It is moderately elevated, very
rocky nnd barren, but covered with wood. The eastern shore is cliffy, and
from its eastern high bluff patches of reef extend to the southward, with good
passages between, until about a mile to the southward of the parallel of the
Ivuitli point of Eil Malk, where it becomes continuous for some distance,
reaching about 4 miles East of the S.E. point of Eil Malk. There is anchorago
within this reef on the East side of Eil Malk, but it must be diflScult to get
out of with a N.E. wind. The N.W. side of Urukthapel forms a bay, the shoro
of which is lined with small islets, and there ure also several in a bay on its
S.E. side. The passage between Urukthapel nndEilMaik is half n mile wide.
The South point of the former is in about lat. 7° 14' 80" 1%., long. 134° 28' E.
Urukthapel was not inhabited.

Eil Malk, the Errakong of the old chart, lies to the S.E. of Urukthapel;
iU S.E. point is in lat. 7° 11' 30' N., long. 134° 27' 30" £. The reet which

(

1014

PALAU OR PELEW ISLANDS.

surrounds the two islands on the East side forms to the N.E. of Eil Malk a
very excellent port, which has two entrances, one from the East, the other
from the West. The former is round the South end of Urukthapel, between it
and Eil Malk and some small islets ; but as it is not more than half a mile
broad, and is not well known, it cannot be recommended to large ships. But
to make up for this, there are to the West of the island two other passages
across the reef, which may be preferable to it ; the first, stated to lie in lat.
7° 14^', is three-quarters of a mile broad; the second, 1^ mile to the south-
ward of it, is much narrower than the former, but Lieut. Maclner passed it in
his vessel. On Capt. Knorr's chart only one passage is shown from the West,
in 7° 18' N.

Orolong or Aulong, a small island not more than 1^ mile in length, lies off
the N.W. point of Urukthapel. Macluer first anchored near this island, and
then steered to the S.E., along the coast of Urukthapel, to reach Errakong
Harbour. The centre of the island is ia lot. 7° 18' N., long. 134° 25' E.

At 3 miles southward of the S.E. point of Eil Malk is a good channel
through the reef, named Denies Passage. On its South side is the small
island of Earakong, between which and Pililu are three other small islands
lying near the edge of a continuous reef.

Pililu, or PeleUw, a pleasant and fertile island, lies 14 miles S.W. ^ S. from
Eil Malk, and is 3 miles long, N.E. and S.W. Between its North extremity
and Eil Malk, on the western reef, there lie, according to Macluer's chart,
several islands, one of which, named Akamokum, is separated by a reef, across
which is a passage not more than a quarter of a mile broad, through which it
is thought Macluer pnssed, as it is stated to be a good channel. At the South
extremity of Pililu, the reef which surrounds the group on the West side com-
mences, containing within its limits several islands, as mentioned above, which
appear to be connected with each other by reefs and shoals. The islet off the
South extremuy of Pililu is in lat. 6° 58' N., long. 134° 16J' E.

Northward of the parallel of Aulong Island, the western reef appears to be
continuous to lat. 7° 37', long. 134° 30', and here is a narrow channel named
Aremolunguj Passage, leading to the interior lagoon, with anchorage 'nside.
Mount Aremolunguj bearing E. f S. leads in, a curious peak appearing open
to the right of the summit. From hence there is a deep passage between the
reefs to Malackan and Korror. At 3 miles farther northward is Woodin Pas-
sage, and at the North extremity of the reef off Babslthuap is Kavasak Passage,
leading to the southward.

Angaor, the south-westernmost island of the Pelew group, is low, and is '' *-
miles in length, N.E. and S.W., the channel which separates it from Pililu
being 5 miles broad, and safe, but there are no soundings, the two extremities
of the islands bebg steep-to. Capt. Ibargoitia, who beat through to the west-
ward with a westerly wind, could find no bottom even at a mile off the shore.
He seat off u boat to the South end of this island to procure water, but it could

THE NORTH COAST OF NEW GUINEA, ETC.

1019

f Eil Malk a
ist, the other
el, between it
in half a mile
ships. But
ther passages

to lie in lat.
to the south-
r passed it in
om the West,

ngth, lies off
is island, and
ich Errakong

23' E.
;oad channel
' is the small
small islands

not approach within 2 cables, on account of the shallowness and the surf. The
natives attempted to serve them, by bringing some off in their canoes by means
of the casks, which were carried half a mile into the woods ; but they brought
but little, and that not good.

Capt. Ibargoitia, who calls this island Niaur, determined the latitude of its
S.W. point to be 6° 53' 55" N., long. 134° 31' E., but more recent observa-
tions place the islet close off it in lat. 6° 50', long. 134° 10'.

At 1^ mile to the West of the S.W. point of this island Lieut. Macluer found
a bank with 10 fathoms water ; and in 1806 the same commander, in the ship
Mangles, found a reef extending half a mile from this low sandy point ; but
Capt. Horsburgh, who passed close to the point in the Anna in the same year,
did not see it, so it was supposed not to exist.

Capt. McClellan, when passing around the South end of Angaur, at about
2 miles distant, saw breakers and a few black rocks show occasionally for
three-quarters of a mile off the South point, and also a few for a good half a
mile farther.

W. J S. from
rth extremity
eluer's chart,
a reef, across
>ugh which it
At the South
'^cst side corn-
above, which
e islet off the

appears to be
lanncl named
iorage 'nside.
pcaring open
between the
Woodin Pas-
isak Passage,

3W, and is -**■
t from Pililu
extremities
t to the west-
>ff the shore,
'fbut it could

The archipelagoes to the southward of the Caroline Islands, consisting of
the Solomon Islands, New Ireland, New Britain, the Admiralty Islands, &c.,
arc described in our Sodth Pacific Directory ; but as the northern coast of
New Guinea, although South of the Equator, may be considered as the southern
limit of the North Pacific, that coast ond the islands will be briefly alluded to
here.

Anchorite Isles, — Anachoretcs Island was discovered by Bougainville, Aug.
7, 1768, in lat. 0° 60' S., long. 145° 30' E. H.M.S. Alacrity visited this group
in 1874. I'hey are described as five or six in number, occupying a space of
about 2^ miles in a N.E. by N. and S.W. by S. direction; they are low and
flat, thickly covered with cocoa-nut trees, and connected to each other by the
reef. The noithern island is the largest, being about half a mile loag. Off the
North end o;" the group a tide-rip is caused by the strong current setting to
the westward around (he end of the reef. There is a boat entrance across the
reef, near one of the southern small islets ; the cances came out over it through
the surf. The water inside the reef appeared discoloured and shallow. No
anchorage was found.*

* Monks Islands (Lot Monjot). — Four saiall, low islands, which extend nearly 6 miles
i. an East and 'West direction. Maurello first saw them in 1781, and determined their
position to be in lat. 0* 67' S., long, (corrected) I4&* 41'. Capt. Hunter also saw them.

The assigned position «vas passed over by H.M.S. Alacrity, in 1874, without observinfj;
any sign of thcni from the mast-head. They must be the same as the Anchorite group.
The brignntine Cotran, in 1874, also passed over it without observing them,

•ir*^

LJJUL ? LJ y jI>-g

1016

THE NORTH COAST OP NEW GUINEA, ETC.

'■■ '

Th« nativei somewhat resemble the Chinese in features, being of a light
colour, with long, straight, black hair, which they wear closely rolled up on
the top of the head. They are well-built men, but apparently cunning and
treacherous.

Commerion Iiland. — Another low island was seen from the mast-head of
Bougainville's vessel, at 8 miles distant, and named Commerson Island. It is
15 miles W. by N. from the northernmost of the Anachoretes, and in lat.
0° 40' S., long. 145° 17'. Capt. von Schleinitz, of the German vessel Gazelle,
1875, found there were two islands, covered with large trees and cocoa-nut
palms ; the S.W. island is the larger of the two, and nearly flat.

Two small islands were reported, in 1877, on thcEquotor, in long. 146° E.,
each being about half a mile in extent, connected by a reef, uninhabited, and
covered with low trees.

Boudeuse Island was named by Bougainville after his ship, August 9, 1768.
It is low, and in lat. 1° 26' S., long. 144° 34' E.

L'Echiquier (the Chess-board), so named by Bougainville, consists of a large
collection of islets. D'Entrecasteaux placed upwards of thirty on his chart,
but states that it is probable that in the North part of it many were not seen,
lliey are only a series of low, flat islets, covered with wood, all appearing to be
connected by reefs. The South point is in lat. 1° 40' 30" S., long. 144° 3' E.
In 1883, observations made on H.M.S. Espiegle placed their N.E. extreme in
lat. 1° 6', long. 144° 30', and the N.W. extreme in lat. 1° 3', long. 144° 24'.

This group is enclosed by a narrow reef, through which there are several
passages, the one chiefly used being on the N.E. side. During the visit of the
schooner Franz, in 1872, the number of islands of the group counted were
fifty-three. The natives, amounting to about 800, are of a dark copper colour,
with long stringy hair, and are frequently at war with the Hermit islanders.

Lob Eremitanos, or Hermits, were seen by Maurelle when 24 miles distant.
They are described by D'Entrecasteaux as being high in the N.W. part, and
seemed to leave considerable intervals, but, on a closer approach, they terminate
in low lands, and arc enclosed in a very narrow belt of sand, within which is a
large space of still water. They are inhabited ; the natives came off in canoes,
and apparently were friendly.

The group consists of seventeen islands, suiToundcd by a large reef, the ex^
teriur limits of which extend about 10 miles North and South, and 13 miles
East and West, and stretch about 6 miles from the shore of the largest island.
It was examined by the officers of H.M.S. Alacrity, in 1874.

Loof Island, about 500 ft. high, lies near the centre of the group, and is the
highest land in the vicinity. There are two native towns, one on Loof, and
one on Geloon Island. Pimi, the N.E. islet, is in lat. 1° 28' 60" S., long.
145" 6' 45 " E.

There are five passages through the reef; the N. W. passage, the broadest,
is about 1 mile wide, the anchorage generally used being on the North side of

THE NORTH COAST OF NEW GUINEA.

1017

Loof Island. The North postage lies N.W. by W., 4 or fi miles from Tet or
Zet, a small island lying off the North extreme of Loof Island ; this passage is
narrow, with generally a confused swell setting into it.

Alacrity Anchorage, formed by the reef on the N.E. side of Hermit Islands,
affords good shelter in 8 to 10 fathoms, sandy bottom ; there are two passages
leading into it, the northern named Coeran, and the southern Sabbcn Passage.
Coeran Passage, about 1^ cable wide, is separated from Sabben Passage by a
reef about 400 yards in extent, to the N.N.W. of which is the anchorage ; the
inner part of Sabben Passage is contracted by a shoal with 3 ft. water on it.
At the anchorage the only tide that is felt is for about four hours at low water,
when it runs nearly 3 knots an hour in a south-westerly direction, and there
appears to be only one tide in 24 hours.

It would not be advisable to attempt either of these passages under sail
during the strength of the tide, without a commanding breeze, as the tide-rips
render it di£Bcult to discern the reefs ; and shoals may exist that have not been
seen. — Lieut. F. W. Sanders, H.M.S. Alacrity.

Matty and Durour Islands are two small, flat islands, discovered by Carteret,
September 19, 1767. According to D'Entrecasteaux, the latter is in lat
1» 33' 40" S., long. 143° 12' 30', and the other in lat. 1°46'0" S.,long. 142" 56'.
Carteret places them in lat. 1° 43' 21", long. 143° 2' E.

Tiger Island is a discovery of Capt. Bristow, in 1817, and communicated by
him to Mr. Furdy. It is about 6 or 7 miles in length. East and West, and in-
habited by a ferocious rac«> of savages. Lat. 1° 45' S., long. 142° 2' K

THE NORTH COAST OF NEW GUINEA.

We cannot here enter into any general description of this extensive island,
or of the explorations which have been made by various European travellers,
a full account of which will be found in the " Proceedings of the Boyal
Geographical Society."* The S.E. coasts are described in our South Paciiio
Ocean Directory, and the following brief description will connect that with
the coast described in the Indian Archipelago Directory. The N.W. coast,
westward of Humboldt Bay, was surveyed by Captain Zwaan, of the Dutch
vessel Soerahaya, in 1875-6.

On April 4th, 1883, Mr. H. M. Chester, the resident magistrate at Thursday
Island, hoisted the British flag at Port Moresby, and formally took possession,
in the name of H.M. Queen Victoria and of the Government of Queensland, of
all that portion of New Guinea and the adjacp it islands, lying between the
meridianti of 141° and 156° E., thus including the Louisiade Archipelago. In

* In Fart 2 of Volume I. of that Society's Supplementary Papers, will be found a
valuable oompilalion, entitled " A Bibliography of New Guinea," by the late Mr. £. C.
Rye, F.Z.S., Librarian, 1884.

North Pacijio. - . ^^

1018

THE NORTH COAST OF NEW GUINEA.

i;i

!l '■

. May, 18R5, an arrangement was come to between Great Britain and Germany,
by which the North coast, between Mitre Rock, in lat. 8" S., and the Dutch
boundary, in long. 141° E., was ceded to Germany, and this is now the terri«
tory of the Gernuin New Guinea Company. At the same time a German pro-
tectorate was established over New Britain, New Ireland, and the islands in-
cluded in the area between long. 141° and 154*^ E., on the Equator, and the.
line of lat 8° S. to the coast of New Guinea.

The natives of this coast belong to the Melanesian or Papuan race. Althongli
in many places wild, suspicious, and excitable, yet, when treated with taot and
patience, veiy friendly relations have been established with them.

DAMPIEB STRAIT separates New Guinea from New Britain, and is de-
scribed .a our South Pacific Directory. The best channel through it is on the
New Guinea side, keeping the beach in sight, 6 or 7 miles distant.

Cape Xing William is difficult to define, the coast rounding gradually and
preserving its steepness. The part taken for Cape King William is a slightly
projecting point, with a village close to the northward of it, in about lat.
6° 6' S., long. 147° 40' E.

Mount Cromwell, about 8 miles S.W. of Cape King William, rises from the
eastern part of the immense Finisterre Range to a height of 7,700 ft., and takes
the shape of a blunt cone, apparently covered with tropical forest. Basilisk
Gorge is a huge break in the mountains, about 6^ miles north-westward of
Mount Cromwell. No bottom with 100 fathoms of line could be found any-
where along this coast, at distances varying from 1^ to 3 miles from the shore,
and the water had the appearance of being deep close up to the beach.

Mount Disraeli is a sharp, remarkable cone, 1 1,000 ft. high, situated in about
lat. 5° 58' S., long. 146° 29' E. Mount Gladstone, also conical, but of blunter
shape than Mount Disraeli, was found to be about 11,400 ft. high. It is in
about lat. 5° 56 30" S., long. 146° 24' 30" E. These were the two highest
peaks of the Finisterre Range sighted by H.M.S. Basilisk, 1874. From long.
146° 30' E. the coast, steep-to, continues its W. by N. ^ N. trend for about 32
miles to Cape Rigny.

ASTROLABE BAT was not visited by H.M.S. Basilisk, but from informa-
tion supplied by M. Miklukho-Maclay, an accomplished Russian eth '•ologist
and traveller, who had stayed there for about twelve months, it was ascertained
that the bay has about 83 villages around its shores, containing in all about
4,000 inhabitants, among whom as many as twelve dialects were spoken. Ga-
himt River flows into the South side of the bay. The inhabitants were generally
friendly.

Astrolabe Ba^, so named after D'Urville's vessel, lies between Capet Rigni
on the East, and Duperri on the N.W., about 24 miles apart, the depth of the
gulf being about 18 or 20 miles. The Finisterre Mountains become lower when
near the bay, which is completely surrounded by a line of moun^ns, even in
the bight of the bay. Capt. B. Moore visited the bay in November, 1878, in

ASTROLABE BAY— DAMPIER ISLAND.

1019

lermany,
e Dutch
he terri'
man pro-
lands in-
and the

Altltongh
taot and

ind 18 de-
t is on the

dually and
a slightly
about lat.

es from the
., and takes
Basilisk
westward of

found any-
n the shore,
each.

ited in about
ut of blunter
;h. It is in
two highest

From long,
for about 32

■om informa-
1 eth -'.ologist
18 ascertained
in all about
spoken. Oa-
ten generally

Cape$ Rigni
B depth of the
le lower when
i^ns, even in
aber, 1878, in

charge of the barque Courier, and speaks of the anchorage in the N.W. comer
OS being of very doubtful utility.

Port Constantitu, at the head of Astrolabe Bay, is about 2 cables in diameter,
with anchorage in about 28 fathoms two-thirds of a cable southward of the
North point, which is in lat. 6" 29' 63" S., long. 145° 46' 8" E.

At 16 miles northward of Port Constantino is an indentation in the coast,
with some islands off it, forming Friedrich Wilhelm and Prinz Heinrick
Harbours, which can be approached by the channel southward of Fischel
Island, the southern and largest, on the West side of which there is anchorage
in 1 1 fathoms. Friedrich Wilhelm Harbour is an inlet extending to the south-
ward, at three-quarters of a mile westward of Fischcl Island, and affording
sheltered anchorage in 10 or 11 fathoms. Prince Heinrich Harbour lies half
a mile northward of the entrance of the latter, and affords anchorage in 7 or 8
fathoms, sheltered by several islands and reefs.

Cape Croisillet, a well-marked promontory, lies 10 or 11 miles North of Cape
DuperrS.

After passing Cape Bigny, the Basilisk steered about N. by W. i W., pass«
ing mid-channel between Cape Croisilles and Dampier Island, thence along the
N.E. coast of New Guinea, outside Yuloan Island and the Schouten Isles, call-
ing in at Humboldt Bay ; after which a course was steered to pass about 20
miles northward of Cape D'Urville, and North of the Mysory Islands, close
South of Providence Island, through Dampier and Pitt Straits, to Amboyaa.

Long Island, in lat. 5° 20' S., long. 147° 10' E., is divided by a deep valley
Into two parts ; it is apparently uninhabited. The southern portion rises to a
high conical peak, estimated at from 2,000 to 4,000 ft. high, which D'Urville
named Cerisy ; the northern consists of three peaks grouped together, and not
reaching to quite the same height as the southern. Reaumur Peak, at its
North end, appears to have been a volcano. A reef extends off the western
point of Long Island. In January, 1885, breaking reefs were observed from
^^ M.S. Dart, 10 to 14 miles S.W. of Long Island, one of which had a bank of
e«nd and coral on it.

Crown Island, so named by Dampier, lies about 7 miles north-westward o?
Long Island. It is about 4 or 5 miles in circumference, and has rather a level
summit, 2,000 ft. high.

Sir R. Rich's Island of Dampier lies to the N.Et of Cape Duperr6. It is
of a similar nature to those already described, and resembles more particularly
Crown Island, but is a little larger and not quite so high.

In the space between Rich and Crown Islands breakers were sighted by
Capt. W. Symington, S.S. Hankow, March 10, 1877 ; he placed the position
of the centre of the breakers in lat. 4° 55' S., long. 146° 60' E., and estimated
their extent at about a mile each way.

Dampier Island, which is nearer the coast, being 6 or 7 miles N.E. of Cape
Croisilles, is certainly not less than 5,000 ft. high, in the form of a cone, pointed

1020

THE NORTH COAST OF NEW GUINEA

\'i

at the Bumixiit, but enlarged at the base to 36 or 40 miles in eiroamference.
Although it appeared capable of cultivation, no sign of inhabitants was seen
from the Astrolabe.

Franklin Bay is 32 miles N.W. of Cape Croisilles, and is limited on the
North by Cape Qourdon, which forms a well-marked promontory, though
slightly elevated. In general, in proceeding to the westward, the coast sensibly
decreases in height.

Vuloan Island is an immense cone, clothed with the most beautiful yegeta-
tion, and is not more than 12 miles in circumference. It is tolerably well fixed
in position, and nothing can render navigation more simple and easy than these
peaks planted on the surface of the ocean, serving as beacons for ships to steer
by in passing along an almost unknown coast. At 2 miles to the N.W. of Vul-
can Island is Aris Island, very much smaller, but still very high.

Pallas Eeef^oB reported, in 1878, by a barque of that name, to be situated
in lat. 3° 37' S., long. 145° 40' E., or about 50 miles &c:a the coast of New
Guinea, and the same distance eastward of the Schouten Islands. The Pallaa
passed close to the reef, the depth upon which was estimated at a few feet.
. Sehouten Islands, which lie off this part of the coast, are eight in number,
extending upwards of 100 miles to the westward, and appear to be uninhabited.
They are very high and conical, which denote an ignccus origin. Their height
contrasts singularly with the low elevation of the land of New Guinea near
them. They are covered with wood, and the mainland, very low near the sea,
is mountainous within. Mr. Powell found good anchorage pretty doss to the
shore of Broken Water Bay. The natives were very timid.

Victoria Bay, on the western side of If Urville Island, in long. 143° 28' E.,
was visited and surveyed by Sir E. Belcher, in H.M.S. Sulphur, July, 1840.
It is of nearly circular shape, the entrance, about 6 cables wide, being on the
N.W. side ; it is about 1 \ mile in length. North and South, by about 7 cables
in breadth, and has regular depths, varying from 9 to 30 fathoms, over a bottom
of tough dark mud, affording a snug and picturesque ancboraje. Streams of
fresh water abound, and wood is plentiful. The natives were friendly.
' At 42 miles West of Bertrand Island, the westernmost Schouten Island, is a
group of islands and lagoon reefii, westward of Pussier Point, lying very near
the coast, named Sainson, Faraguet, and Dudemaine Islands. The two first
are low, and covered with large trees. Dudemaine Island only has a small
hill on its western end. of 100 or 200 ft, in height, which may be distinguished
at a considerable distance among the surrounding low land.

At this part the belt of low land which lines the coast seems to form a largo
valley between two chains of very high mountains. This configuration would
lead to the presumption that a considerable river would flow through this valley.
The coast of New Guinea, beyond these, offers nothing agreeable in its aspect.
At one part it rises in steep cliffs, and breakers seem to extend a mile off the
shore. Far in the interior the summits of very high raountnins may bo seen.

IMI

HUMBOLDT BAY.

i021

rence.
Men

on the
liough
Insibly

regeta-
jl fixed
In these
I steer
lofVul-

At 7 or 8 milet in the interior Mount Byr%*$ raises its double peak above the
clouds, in long. 141° 15'. The Aitrolahe ■mt» heredrifted within half a league of
the land, and from the calm was obliged to anchor before a small eoTe.

While lying near Mount Eyries, fifteen canoes, each carrying from three to
eight natives, put off and surrounded D'TIrrille's ship. There was not the
slightest doubt of their hostile intentions. From this part of the coast the im-
posing summit of Mount BougainvilU becomes visible in the West, raising its
head a considerable height above the surrounding mountains. The boundary
between the Dutch and German portions of New Guinea lies close eastward of
Mount Bougainville.

Humboldt Bay, thus named by Captain D'Urville, lies to the West oi this
mountain. It penetrates deeply into the coast, particularly to the S.E. Its
opening was about 4 miles in width. On one side the Cyclopi Mountain*, and
on the other Mount Bougainville, stand like gigantic sentinels, pointing out the
entrance to Humboldt Bay to the navigator at the distance of 60 miles. To the
West of Mount Cyclops the coast descends with a gentle slope to the beach,
and has some landing spots, with points more or lees projecting.

Humboldt Bay, in lat. 2° 40' S., long. 140° 42' E., may be recognised with-
out much difficulty. Point Bonftand on the eastern side being bold, about 700
feet high, and cliffy on its northern side. The Batiliik struck soundings in 4f
fathoms in entering, over a bottom of sand and coral, when the following were
the bearings taken :— Point Bonpland, S. 40° £. ; Point Caillie, N. 35° W. ;
and a point at the head of the bay resembling a peninsula, S. 72° W. Close to
this position anchorage was found in 16 fathoms. An uneasy swell sets into
the bay, breaking heavily upon the beach, which has a wild, dreary aspect.
The natives were very dark-skinned, bold, and noisy.

Caillie Point, the North entrance point of Humbolt Bay, is a promontory
500 ft. high, projecting in a S.S.E. direction from the mainland, to which it is
joined by a low neck. Challenger Cove, at the N.W. part of Humboldt Bay,
is formed by Caillie Point and a point 1^ mile to the S.W. of it.

H.M.S. Challenger, in February, 1875, anchored in 19 fathoms, with Caillie
Point bearing N.W. by N. ^ N., distant about 1| mile, but the swell from the
northward causing the ship to roli considerably, an anchorage was obtained in
Challenger Cove, in 36 fathoms, stiff clay, with the South extreme of Caillie
Point bearing E. f N. ; Observation Islet, South, distant 1^ cable ; and Village
Islet, S.W. i S. ; but the northern part of Challenger Cove appeared to afford
n better anchorage, being landlocked, with apparently no sign of shoal water ;
it was, however, not examined.

Matterer Bay, which lies about 42 miles westward of Humboldt Bay, is
rather deeper than any preceding. To the West of this inlet a low point,
covered with trees. Point Brama, projects considerably to the N.W. ; and
beyond the coast again recedes, forming Walckenaer Bay. In the rear of these
is u high luouutnin (Mount Benoistj. At 50 miles to the West is another

It '

1022

THE NORTH COAST OF NEW GUINEA.

lofty chain, to which D'Unrillc gare the name of Gauttier Mountaini. after
the great French hydrogropher. Mr. Powell says the coast between Humboldt
Bay and Point D'Urrille is for the most part high, rocky, and rugged, though
tnuch broken into bays and creeks, but parts (and these appear to be the mouths
of streams) are low and swampy, having thick forests of mangrove bushes.
° " In front of, and at 2 or 8 miles distance from, the low beach in front of the
Oauttier Bange, several small islands followed each other. The largest, Merat
Island, is not more than 8 or 4 miles in circumference. At the distance we
passed them, about 8 miles, they appeared to be covered with clumps of cocoa-
nut and other trees. At 20 miles farther are the Ariptoa hland$t three small
islets; when 12 miles distant they appeared as a single island, moderately ele-
▼ated and well woodea. The chain of the Gauttier Mountains here terminates
on the coast. Farther to the West the land of New Guinea is very low, and
can hardly be distinguished at the distance of 12 or Ifi miles. The great Rivtr
Amhemoh or Reehuaten debouches here, forming a large delta, and sending a
large volume of turbid water into the.sea.

** I consider, then, that it is a positive fact that these waters proceed from
some considerable river, which discharges itself into the sea on this part of the
coast. Lougainville observed the same thing in this part, and from it drew the
same deduction. Precisely in this part of New Guinea the land forms a low
point. Point D'UrviUe, very far advanced into the sea, and everything tends to the
belief that it is formed by the outlet of a considerable stream." — M. D UrvilU.

In 1884, Mr. D. F. van Braam Morris, Dutch Resident of Temate, ascended
this river for some distance in the steamer Havik. He entered by the most
northerly mouth, in lat. 1° 25^' S., long. 137° 56' E., the entrance of which
was 4 cables wide, with a depth of 4 to 7 fathoms in it. The steamer ascended
against a strong current for about 60 miles, when the depth suddenly shoaled
to '2\ fathoms, and it was thought that even a steam-launch could not penetrate
much higher than this. They met with no opposition frem the natives. The
numberless openings on the East coust of Oeelvink Bay, between lat. 1° 20"
and 2° 30' S., are, with the exception of the Aiberan and Kei Bivers, but out-
lets from inland lagoons. — (See Proeetdingt of the Royal Geographical Soeiettff
March, 1885, pp. 172-7.)

Point D'Hrville is very low and projecting, probably islands; according to
the observations made in the Astrolabe by M. Jacquinot, it is in lat. 1° 24' S.,
long. 137'' 47' E. Stephen Islands are placed off it in lat. 0" 20' S., long.
V3T> 35' E., a doubtful position.

OEELVINK BAT is the very extensive bay of which Point D'Urville may
be said to be the easternmost point. We shall not describe it here, but shall
terminate our notice of New Guinea with Port Dorei or Dory, at the N.W.
point of the bay. Off its mouth are some very large islands, Jobi Island^
Mysory or Schouten Islands^ and others, all very imperfectly known.

The Italian traveller, Dr. Bcccari, who visited this bay in 1875, reports that

GEELVINK BAY.

1023

rtlairu. after
n Humboldt
ged, though
I the moutha
bushes,
t front of the
rgest, Merat
distance we
ipe of coooa-
, three small
derately ele-
« terminates
ry low, and
) great Itiver
id sending a

roceed from
is part of the
t it drew the
forms a low
; tends to the
/. Z>' Urville.
ite, ascended
by the most
ce of which
icr ascended
enly shoaled
lot penetrate
atives. The
lat. 1° 20'
ers, but out-
Meal Society,

according to
lat. 1" 24' S.,
20' S., long.

•'Urville may
ere, but shall
at the N.W.
Jobi Island^
wn.
reporUi that

it is smaller than Is shown upon the Admirnlty charts, and docs not extend so
far to the southward. The village of Waisaru, situated at the head, appa^
rently upon the most southern part of its shores, was found to be in lat. 3° 12' S.,
instead of 3° 45' S., as has hit?aerto been supposed. — Oeographical Magazine,
February, 1876, p. 39.

Point Oeelvink lies about 50 miles south-westward of Point D'Urville, and
here, perhaps, the immense bay of the same name may be said to commence.
West of this is the extensive island of Jappen or Jobi, and between is a smaller
one, which nearly doses the passage, and was named by D'Urville, after one
of his officers, Quoy Island.

Krudu or Quoy Island is 8 miles long. East and West, and moderately ele-
vated, well wooded, and pleasing in appearance. A channel of only 3 miles in
breadth separates it from Point Geelvink, formed by a moderately high hill. A
channel of the same breadth separates it from the West end of Jobi, which
descends in a very gentle slope to the sea.

Trattort Island* lie to the North of Jobi, and off the East point of Mysory
Islands, forming the North side of the Strait of Jobi or Geelvink. They are
small and low.

Jobi or Jappen Island, which lies in the opening of Geelvink Bay, accord-
ing to M. D'Urville's chart is about 90 miles in length, lying nearly East and
West. The Astrolabe only sailed along its northern side. The land on this
coast is high, steep, and covered with woods, without any openings. High
mountains form the central ridge, some peaks rising to a height of 2,500 feet.
Thi.i aspect is preserved in the most uniform manner, and throughout its whole
extent it did not appear to offer a single cove or creek fit to receive a larg^
ship. The mountains of Jobi decrease in altitude on nearing its western exr
treme, and its West cape is separated from Bultig by a channel 6 miles in
breadth.

Aniui Earbonr, on the South side of Jobi, at about 25 miles from its Wes^
end, is formed by Kaiari Island, which is about 1 mile in extent, lying 2 to 3
cables off shore. The town has a population of about 3,000, and is built on
the coral reefs on the North side of the harbour. Excellent water may be ob«
tained at the waterfall abreast the West end of the island, where there are
two trading stations, but no supplies. The barboiir is approached from the
south-westward by a channel, 4 cables wide between the rocks, between Kaboi
and Miosansus Island, in which there is no bottom at 10 fathoms. There is
anchorage in 9 to 12 fiithoms, with the North end of Kaiari bearing East ; and
also abreast the waterfall.

Bultig or Hump Island is hilly, of an irregular form, and 10 or 12 miles in
length, but not more than 4 miles broad. Three rounded islets, called the
Three Sisters, lie near its East point, and before its West point are two similar
islets, named by D'Urville the Brothers. Long Island is tolerably large, and
the land in general is but little elevated. Manim Island lies off its East point.

1034

THE NORTH COAST OP NEW GUINEA.

Sehontan or Myiory laUndl oonsist of two large islands, divided by a
nirrow channel, the eastern named Biak, and the western Koredo. Some
small islands lie off the South side of the latter, and at 10 miles N.W. by
N. t N. from its West point is Mofia or Providence Inlet. At 14 miles N.W.
of Mofia ia Meekaroar at Danger lelet, with a large coral reef extending
about 10 milea N.N.W. of it. About 75 miles E. by N. \ N. from Danger
Islet is a bank of 4} fbthoms, in lat. 0° 2' S., long. 136° 16' E.

Port Doroi, Dorerei, or Dory, is situated immediately to the South of Cape
Mamori, whieh forms the westernmost and outer point of the entrance of tho
great Bay of Oeelvink.

The harbour is easy of access, and is entered by a channel 3 miles in length,
formed on one side by the peninsula of Mamori, and on the other side by the
islands of Mana-Souari and Matmapi at Miormapi, and two banks, which are
awash. The harbour itself is not more than half a mile deep, and 200 yards
in breadth, with a regular depth of 10^ fethoms, sand and shells. Notwith-
standing the confined extent of this basin, ships of any class may calculate on
a safe anchorage, and sheltered from the winds and swell from the offing. But
as it is swTOunded by deep forests, and at the bottom of the harbour there are
many mud-banks, often dry, a long stay here would doubtless be unhealthy for
Europeans, eapecially in the rainy season. The best anchorage is in 14 fathonu,
northward of the missionary house on Mana-Souari.

The inhabitants of DoreY are distributed in several villages on the borders
of the sea ; and there are two others on the islands Mana-Souari and Masmnpi.
The village on the former is named Mansinian, with a church and a school,
and here the chief Dutch missionary resides. The total population of DoreK
cannot exceed 1,500 souls, all of whom recognise the sovereignty of the Sultan
of Tidore, who is under the suzerainty of the Dutch.

The result of the observations of M. Jacquinot has placed the Observatory
at DoreK in lat. 0" 51' 43" S., long. IZS° 59' 52" E. Later observations place
the North end of Mana-Souari Island in lat. 0° 54' S., long. 134° 7' E.

The following islands are but little known, and some only vaguely placed on
the charts. The few particulars which are given are derived (unless other-
wise stated) ftam our " Oriental Navigator," 1809, pp. 634—641.
• ST. DAVID I8LAHDS, Pedan, Onata, or Freewill Islands.— Tbia group,
about which there is some confusion in the old charts, was seen in the Warwick,
East Indiaman, in February, 1761. They were represented as two distinct
islands, but it is probable that one of them is intended for the Asia Islands.
Th^ are very low, are four in number, and with an islet or rock between the
North and East islets. The smallest in extent seems to be the highest, and
all of them are well covered with cocoa-nut trees, like most other coral atolls.

CARTERET UERF- HELEN REEF.

1025

iWdcd by •
redo. Some
les N.W. by

miles N.W.
ef extending
firom Danger

outb of Cape
trance of tho

les in length,
r side by the
ks, which are
nd 200 yards
Is. Notwith-
r ealonlate on
le offing. But
30ur there are
unhealthy for
in 14 fiithoms,

>n the borders

and Masmapi.

and a school,

ition of DoreK

y of the Sultan

le Observatory
irvntions place
°7'B.

[uely placed on
(unless other-
11.

. — ^This group,
Qthe Warwick,
IS two distinct
! Asia Islands,
ik between the
e highest, and
er coral atolls.

It is about 14 miles long, North and South, and of an oval fthnpo ; tho «ur-
rounding reef projects al>out a mile from thu North and South sides, but not
so far on the others. It is well inhabited. The centre is in about lat. 0° 57' N.,
long. 134° 21' £.

Carteret Beef was passed by Capt. Carteret in the Swallow, in 1767. He
passed between the reef and Evening hUt to the S.W. of it, nnd placcH it in
the doubtful position, 2" 54' N., 134'' 12' E. It is possible that it mny be tho
same as the next, as a depth of 2,UU0 fathoms has been found in this locality.

HELEN REEF was discovered in the East India Cotpnany's ship Helen,
Capt. Scton, in 1794. He says : — It is a very dangerous shoal, lying W.N.W.
and E.^.£., about 6 miles ; the East end appeared a dry sand, but on the West
part there were rocks a very little above water; no ground with 100 fathoms
of line 3^ miles due South of a very conspicuous port of it. I am iuclinvd to
think that the reef stretches a good way to the northward, as I saw from tlio
mast-head the appearance of breakers running from the West end to tho north-
eastward. From the ccutru of tho reef, to which I gave the name of Helen
Shoal, Lord North Island bears N. 75° W., 40 miles.

llie best account we have of it is furnished by Cap^iin Pcdcrsen, of tiio
Cordelia Beriun, who came to it in October, 1858, to recover the cargo of tea
from the Lady Raglan, wrecked on its West side.

The reef is above 16 miles long in a N.N.E. and S.S.W. direction, nnd 8
miles wide at its broadest part, which is near its southern end. Its interior is
a basin of deep water, encircled by a narrow belt of dark heads of coral, against
which the ocean swell dashes with great fury. In sailing round the reef no
break was seen through its margin, or foul ground along it, except at its south-
eastern point, where white or shallow water extended half a mile outside the
breakers, and where there appeared to be a narrow opening into the interior.
A rock, with 2 or 3 fathoms over it, was discovered lying West about a mile
from the wreck of the Lady Raglan, and North about three-quarters of a mile
from the extreme western part of the reef.

As no anchorage was found along the reef, the water being ocean deep cIohc-
to, the Cordelia Berian remained off it under sail from October 4 to November
11, her boats bringing tea from the Lady Raglan. During this period the
weather was generally unsettled, with heavy squalls from the W.N.W., then
calms, which often placed the vessel in a critical position, the currents being
strong and irregular, sometimes setting at the rate of 2 knots to the eastward
(or towards the reef*), and at other times as strong to the westward. The

* The Cordelia Berian lying-lo on the West itide of tbe reef, where the Lady Saffian wm
wrecked.

North Paci/c. 6 p

1020

IST.ANDS NORTH OF NEW GUINEA.

month of October wm more IkTourable than November ; in the former the
wind WM tteadier trom the eouth-weatward, and fewer ealnu ; in the latter,
there were calms and baffling winda, and the •qualla were hesTy and the current
strong.

The tides ran strong over the reef, the flood to the eastward, the ebb to the
westward. The flood sometimes set with such force that the men could not
keep their footing in 1 foot of water. The boats were enabled ut times to get
across the barrier at the S.8.E. part of the reef when the tide was high, but
great cam had to be taken to aToid the sharp heads of coral, having 10 to 20
fathoms water close to them.

In light airs or in baffling winds a wide berth should be given to Helen
Reef, for the currents in its vicinity are variable and strong, and have occa-
sioned the loss of many vessels on it, and others have but narrowly escaped
being wrecked.

llie N.N.R. extreme is in about lat. 3<> 0' N., long. I31» 52' E. ; the S.S.W.
extreme in about lat. 2° 40' N., long. 131° 42 E.

TOBI, Lord North, or Neville hland, was seen by the ship Lord North, in
January, 1781, and was also seen in 1789 by the Raymond, and was cf>' >d
Neville Island from a man on board. It is 1} mile long, R.S.E. and WJ V^,
with a reef projecting from its East end, but is bold-to in other direct, us.
It is densely wooded, and had about 200 inhabitants, who came off in their
canoes, but they are bold, and not to be trusted. Lat. 3° 3' N., long. 131° 4' £.

MABIEBE, or Warren Haitinga Iiland, was first seen by the East India
Company's ship Carnarvon, Capt. Hutchinson, September, 1701. It is about
2 miles long, North and South, and a mile wide. Like other atolls, it is low
and well covered with cocoa-nut trees, especially in the northern part, but the
middle and southern parts are higher. It is inhabited by people resembling
Malays, who are very poor, and can afford no refreshments.

Cnpt. A. McClellan passed it in July, 1855, and found a detached rock off
it, although it had been supposed to be clear all round. A reef stretches over
a mile from both ends of Mari^re Island, with a rock a good mile off its N.N.E.
side, showing in the hollow of the sea as a round black islet, about the size of
a whale. Horsburgh expressly states that there is no danger near this island.
He places it in lat. 4° 19' 30' N., long. 132° 28' 30" B.

Capt. Milledge, of the Nourmahal, who sighted the island in 1872, says that
a reef with heavy breakers extends about half a mile from the North and South
ends of the island. There ia a smooth beiMih on the western side. Some ca-
noes came alongside, and the natives appeared to be a very inoffensive race.

AHVA, or Current Itland, was seen by the Carnarvon, Warwick, and
Princess Augusta, the China fleet returning in 1701. It is a ver}' small, low

SANSOnAL, Oil 8T. ANDUKW ISLANDS.

1027

mer the
t latter,
I eunreat

lb to the
ould not
ei to get
tiigh, but
10 to 20

to Helen
ave ocoa-
f escaped

lie S.8.W.

island, not more than half a mile in diameter, covered with troe^,, and sur-
rounded by breakers, which run out from its South end for 2 miles. Its posi-
tion may be taken, approximately, as 4" 30' N., long. 132° 4' E. It is Tcry
dangerous in the night, and is inhabited.

SAHSO&AL, or Si. Andrtw /«/an(/«, have been placed l°too far East on the
charU. Capt. Maury says that they are in lat. 5° 20' N., long. 132° 20' E. They
were discovered by Padilla, in 1710, are two in number, and said to be con-
nected and surrounded by a reef which is steep-to, and extends but a short'
distance from either island. Kodo-koputi, the southernmost and largest, is from
1 to 2 miles S.S.W. from SansomI, the northernmost of the two. They are
small, low, flat, and thickly wooded ; and may be seen about 12 or 14 miles off*.
There were about 200 inhabitants on the islands, and these occasionally visit
the Palau in their canoes. — Rrynoldt,

North, in

was cp' fd

1 W.l ^^,

direotivns.
iff in their
. 13l»4'E.

East India
t is about
it is low

irt, but the
resembling

d rock off
etches over

itsN.N.E.

the size of
this island.

|2, says that
and South
Some ca-
sive race.

jrwick, and
small, low

( 1028 )

CHAPTER XIII.

ISLANDS BETWET'N LAT. 10° AND 20° N., INCLUDING THE
MARIANA OR LADRONE ISLANDS.

II '

CLIPPEETON ISLAND was discovered, in 1705, by a companion of Dam-
pier's, Capt. Clipperton, who separated from him or. the coast of South America
to go to the Indies, in which passage he fell in with this rock or island. Its
position, as given, was not very far from the truth. Its possession is claimed
by Franco.

Captain Sir Edward Belcher is the first who made us acquainted with its
exact character, and the following is his description of it. He made it May
8th, 1839, at the distance of 15 miles, at the dawn of day ; and the sim's roys
playing on its nearest face, it had the appearance of a brig close hauled. — The
name, Clipperton Rock, certainly misled us, and had we made the point at
night, with a fair wind, would almost inevitably have severely damaged or de-
stroyed both vessels. I certainly should have steered to pass it to the north-
ward, merely assuming it to be a solitary rock.

Nothing in this name could lead a seaman to imagine a high rock, placed on
the southern edge of a coral lagoon island, 3 miles long. North and South, by
the same East and West. Its description should stand thus: — A very dan-
gerous, low, lagoon island, destitute of trees, with a high rock on its southern
edge, which may be mistaken for a sail. This rock can be seen 15 miles, but
in thick weather the low coral belt, which appears like sand, will not be dis-
tinguished until close to it. The breakers on the eastern side do not afford
B 'ficient warning for a vessel to turn or change her course. On the northers
part of the belt the !and is a little rained, and appears to be clothed with some-
thing like grass.

There .arc two entrances frV -"ut the centre of the N.E. and S.E. sides) whicl"

PASSION ISLAND OR ROCK.

1029

at high water may be safe ; but at the moment we pHsscd, the surf was too
heavy, and the reflux showed the rocks bore. The high rock is situated in lat.
10° 17' N., long. 109° 13' W., at about the middle of the S.E. side, the N.W.
edge of the reef being more than 2^ miles to tl N.W. of it. On the beach
several large trees were observed, and an object, which was thought to be part
of a vessel, near the western opening.

In the centre of the lagoon, as viewed from the mast-head, there is one hole
of blue water, and a second belt is connected with rock, attaching it to the
East side of the island. This literally cont . itutes two islands formed by its two
openings ; both are on the weather side of the island.

No living trees were seen, but the whole '.land was covered with gannet,
boobies, frigate pelican, and several kinds >> tern, which had also been no-
ticed in great numbers during the previc us week, at least 500 miles to tho
eastward.

No bottom was obtained by the Sulphur with 100 fathoms of line, but the
Starling had soundings with less than 100 finthoms on the northern side.

Sharks, porpoises, and turtle, were observed together. The former annoyed
us much by biting at our patent logs. They were very large, and literally
swarmed. In all probability they were attracted by a shoal of file (balistesj,
and other small fislv, which had been feeding off our copper since quitting the
Island of Cooos.

PASSION ISLAND or Book.— The existence of this has been the subject
of much doubt, arising from the very contradictory statements as to its posi-
tion. It is stated to have been discovered in the early part of the last century,
by Capt. Dvibocage, in La Dicouverle, of Havre, on a Good Friday, and from
this circumstance it takes its name. This account is alluded to by Le Bar-
binaise, who nuide a voyage to the South Seas in 1714. The position stated
is lat. 4° N., long. 106° W., but on Espinosa's chart it is given as lat. 16°54'N.,
long. 109° W. This great incongruity, however, is in some measure set at rest
by thu following, by Lieut. Woolridge, R.N., commanding H.M.S. Spy: —

" On Deccmbor 2ad, 1847, observed an island bearing W.N.W., which,
though (as laid down) would have been 60' distant, we could only believe to
be the Passion Kook. As we passed less than 30' to the West of it in July
last, and did not see it, and now passed 60' to the East of it, it is possible it
may be laid down 30' too far to the West.

" Latitude and longitude, from bearings and supposed distance, 17° 11' N.,
108^ 21' W. It appeared from aloft high, and peaked in several places."

However, Commander Dewey, U.S. ship Narrnyansett, searched unsuccess-
fully for this rock in 1873, ?nd Ilear-Admiral Aliny, in the Ptnsacola, also
failed to find it.

:'!l

( 1030

REVILLA-GIGEDO ISLANDS.

This is a small group of four islands, apparently of volcanic origin, lying to
the southward of the Californian Peninsula, and discovered in one of the early
Spanish voyages. Fernando de Grijal^i, in 1523, named the principal island
Santo Tomas, now called Socorro. The name of the group is derived from
Capt. Colnett, in 1793, who gave the name of the Spanish Mexican Viceroy to
them, in gratitude for the kindness he had received from him during his cap-
tivity. — {Colnett, p. 116). The Spaniards intended to form an establishment
on them, but their natural character prevented this.

SOCORRO, or Sanio Tomas, is about 9 miles in length, N.W. and S.E., and
about 7f miles in its greatest breadth. It may be said to consist of ouc moun-
tain, 3,707 ft. high, which may be seen at the distance of 60 miles, and falls
in gradual descent at all points on the South side. It is in a grea ; measure
covered with brushwood, intermixed with low prickly pear trees (cacti J, and
occasionally shaded with other trees of a larger growth. Some Tew spots of
the soil are black and barren, as if fire had lately issued near it ; and the top
of the high land at a distance has the appeumnca of having been formerly a
volcano. The surface is of a whitish colour, likb ^bat of the pumice stone, which
was found on the shore. Neither fire nor smoke were, however, seen to issue
from the island.

The vegetables found by Colnett's people were considered as wholesome ;
they were beans growing on a species of vine, and the molie tree, whose leaves
make a pleasant and aromatic decoction. The prickly pear, an excellent anti-
scorbutic, grew in great abundance. Nume.-ouj land-birds, and plenty of sea-
fowl, also afforded food. Fish is very ahondaut, but difficult to take, on
account of the numerous sharks. Water is, however, not to be found, though
there are many indications that some must exist, but it has not been dis*
covered.

Capt. Colnett considered the safest ar horage, from June to December, to be
in Cornwallis Bay, between the South and S.W. points, opposite to two white
coral beaches, which are the first two in succession from the South point of the
island toward the West. It is remarkable from the pinnacle rocks, 30 ft. high,
which lie close off the West point of the bay. This bay is preferable in the
bad season, as the wind seldom blows more than two points to the southward
of East. It is necessary to anchor quite near the beach, as the water quickly
deepens.

In the good season, however, that is, from the latter end of December till
the beginning of June, the S.E., or Braithwaite Day, is to be preferred ; the
anchorage here is better, and it is the only good landing-place. It is readily
known, being a stony beach at the first inlet in the shore to the eastward of
the South point. All other parts of the coast on the South side of the island

REVILLA-GIGEDO ISLANDS.

1031

1, lying to
f the early
ipal island
rived from
Viceroy to
g his cap-
ablisbment

d S.E., and
' oue moun-
s, and falls
la: measure
'cactij, and
sw spots of
md the top
formerly a
itone, which
een to issue

wholesome ;
trhose leaves
cellent anti*
lenty of sea-
to take, on
und, though
been dis*

ember, to be

two white

joint of the

30 ft. high,

table in the

southward

ater quickly

ecembcr till
efcrred ; the
It is readily
eastward of
of the island

are iron-bound, which makes it difficult, if not impossible to land, except in
very fine weather. To anchor in this bay, bring the peak to bear N.W. by N.,
and anchor in 10 or 11 fathoms, a quarter of a mile from the beach. Accord-
ing to Commander Dewey, of the U.S. ship Narragiimett, 1874, his observa-
tion spot, at the landing-place, is in lat. 18° 42' 67" N., long. 110° 56' 53" W.,
or 2 J' westward of Sir E. Belcher's position.

Sir E. Belcher states that Braithwaite Bay has rocky landing, the shores of
lava coule, and nothing like a beach. Neither wood nor water visible, although,
from the constant clouds which hang over the high peaks, there must be a
supply in some other point. Lieut. Wood examined the western bay, which
is spacious, and, as goats were observed, it is probable that they find water.

" It is difficult to penetrat * into the interior, even for a few hundred feet,
owing to the abundance of the cactus opuntia (prickly pear), which make
those who attempt it suffer for their curiosity. One of the crew of the Sulphur
made himself ill from eating a lai^e bean, which grew abundantly ; but it
might have been from indulging too freely, because some were cooked and eaten
without injury." Two of Colnett's people were affected in the same way.

Cape Rule, the South point of Socorro, is a high bluff, surmounted by a hill
250 ft. high. Oneal Rock, about half a mile long, and 45 ft. high, lies 1 mile
N.W. by N. from Cape Henslow, the N.W. bluff. Several other rocks lie off
the coast between this and Cape Middleton, the North point, and over a mile
north-eastward of the latter are two small rocks, 15 and 50 ft. high. The
eastern coast is very dreary and forbidding, consisting of perpendicular bluffs
from 15 to 150 ft. high, with no landing.

San Benedicto Island, named Nublada (cloudy) by Yillalobos, in 1542,
and San Berto by Colnett, lies 30 miles N. J E. from the peak of Socorro. It
is a barren rock, 3 miles in length, N.E. and S.W., and from a half to three-
quarters of a mile in breadth. The surface is uneven, and its appearance
romantic, but barren, with little or no vegetation. It has two peaks, the
highest, 975 ft. high, near the southern end ; these, when seen at the distance
of 9 or 10 miles, have the appearance of two islands. On the West side is a
small bay, but it was not examined. Three small rocks, 60 to 200 ft. high,
lie close westward of the North point of the island, and a dangerous sunken
rock lies about a mile westward of the extreme western point. Near the
middle of the eastern side is a small beach, where landing might be effected.
The North end of the island is in lat. 19° 20' N., long. 110° 48' W.

Boca Partida, 67 miles W. ^ N. from the peak of Socorro, is a dangerous
barren rock, 110 ft. high, lying N.N.W. and S.S.E., consisting of two white
pinnacle rocks, connected by a low rugged ridge 20 ft. high. It is only 100
yards in length, by 50 yards wide. The N.W. end is forked ; the S.E. end is
like a ragged haycock. There is a depth of 35 fathoms at a boat's length off
all round ; at half a mile distance, 50 fathoms; and then no bottom with 100
fathoms. It appears like a vessel under jury-masts. There is a great quan-

i! *>

;

i i

1032

ISLANDS BETWEEN LAT. 10' AND 20° N.

' ii

tity of fish, but the sharks prevent them being taken. The only inhabitants
of the rock are men-of-war hawks, as at San Benedicto. Lat. 18° 59" 40", long.
112" 7' 30" W.

Santa Rosa, or Clarion Island. — We have no early account of this island,
and its existence was doubted until it was seen, in 1815, by Lieut. Ponafidin,
of the Russinn Company's ship Souvoroff, who calculated its position as lat.
18° 28' I'll., long. 115^ 6' W. Captain Fitzgerald, of the Alert, saw it in his
passage from Callao to San Bias. It was also seen by Captain Clark, of the
American ship Pearl, who modestly bestowed the name of Clarion on it. It
is called Cloud Island on some charts, but this is evidently the name of Nu-
blad.'. Jc^and to the eastward. It is also probably the same as Beat Island and
Freshwater Island, placed near to Cloud Island.*

Clarion Island lies 2^ miles W. by S.f S. from Socorro, and is a little over
5 miles long. East and West, by from 1 to 2 miles wide. It has three pro-
minent peaks, 1,282, 916, and 996 ft. high respectively, the highest near the
western end. Captain Fitzgerald describes it as being high in the West part
(1,500 ft. according to Sir E. Belcher), and when it bears N.E. it shows in
three simimits, which give it the appearance of a group of islets. Sir E.
Belcher speaks thus of it : — Clarion Island differs slightly in its features from
Socorro, excepting that a whitish-coloured fresh-water lake was found at the
beach, and birds were more numerous, viz., the gannet, frigate pelican, several
varieties of boobies, of tern, ducks, and doves. The plants were more luxuriant,
the cactus particularly so, but not so uncourteous as at Socorro — it did not
entirely stop the way. No streams were noticed. Fish were very numerous,
and took the bait freely, but they broke the hooks. Turtle were plentiful ;
two were captured. Sir E. Belcher was not fortunate enough to find wood
or wholesome water in any way to justify a vessel seeking for those necessaries
at these islands. Possibly distress might be relieved, but nothing beyond.

The South side of the island is clear and steep-to, except off two indenta-
tions with sandy lieaches, off the eastern of which breakers extend nearly half
a mile. Sulph.r Day, the western, affords tolerable anchorage in northerly
winds, in 12 rr 13 fathoms, 3 cables from the beach. Sir E. Belcher places
his observation spot, on the East side of this bay, in lat. 18° 20' 36" N., long,
(corrected) 114° 43' 19" W. With the exception of these beaches, the shores
consist of perpendicular bluffs, 80 to 600 ft. high, with a few small detached
rocks. Off the N.W. point is the remarkable Monument Rock, 200 ft. high.
The current in the vicinity of Clarion Island was found setting to the south-
ward from a half to 1 knot an hour.

* The positions nssigaed to most of these islands was also examined by Lieut. CalUihy
Ap R. Jones, U.S.N., and no indication of land discovered. Lieut. Jones was of opii •md
that all of thorn were erroneous positions of Siiuta Rosa Island, which, from all thoep
pusitionH, was in sight. Tbcy were alto sourchud for unsuccessfully by the U.S. ship Nar-
ragantett, 1874.

a^mm

JOHNSTON ISLANDS.

1033

inhabitants
9- 40", long.

this island,
. Ponafidin,
ition OS lat.
law it in his
)lark, of the
n on it. It
lame of Nu-
fl Island and

a little over
18 three pro-
lest near the
he West port
it shows in
jlets. Sir E.
features from

found at the
elican, several
lore luxuriant,
—it did not
ery numerous,
rere plentiful ;

to find wood
ose necessaries
ig beyond.
F two indenta-
Bnd nearly half
;e in northerly
Belcher places
' 36" N., long,
shes, the shores
small detached
;, 200 ft. high.
; to the south*

by Liout. Cate'bv
168 was of opii •'jd
ch, from all thoso
the U.8. ship Ifar-

Sir E. Belcher sought for the several islands reported near Socorro and
Clarion Islands, and passed over the position of Best Island, which, if it existed
within 10 miles, might have been seen ; he soon after sighted Clarion Island,
not far out of its position as given. Birds, principally gannet, together with
broad patches of weed, were at times plentiful.

RoCA CoBAL, Roca Pardero, New Island, Misipi Island, New Baldayo
Island, &c. — Several islands under the foregoing names have been announced
OS existing between lat. 16^° and 17" N., long. 133° and 136^ W., but the re-
ports hove never yet been confirmed, and their existence, whether as referring
to a single island, or a cluster of five islands, as has been reported, or a scries
of detached islands, is exceedingly doubtful.

The United States' Exploring Expedition passed through the reported area,
and Sir Edward Belcher, in the Starliny and Blossom, Copt. Trollope, iu II.M.S.
Rattlesnake, and others, have sought for this cluster of doubtful islonds unsuc-
cessfully ; but numerous indications of land were met with, medusa:, floating
sticks, frequent showers, frigate birds, &c. Sir Edward Belcher says : — " As
these latter birds do not go far from land, I am disposed to believe some one of
these reports to be well founded, but the position erroneously determined. So
many assertions can hardly rest on imagination."

JOHNSTON ISLANDS were discovered December 14, 1807, on board
II.M.S. Cornwallis, Cupt. Chiirles James Johnston. The discovery and place
of the group were announced by Lieut. William Henry Smyth, at that time an
officer on board the Cornwallis, hence the group is sometimes called by the
name of the frigate. The original observations place them in lat. 16^ 53' 20" N.,
long. 169° 31' 30" W. They are described by Wilkes, 1840, as a lagoon sur-
rounded by an extensive reef, extending N.E. and S.W. 10 miles, and 5 miles
broad. On the N.W. side are two low islets ; the westernmost, in lat. 16'^ 48' N.,
long. 169° 45' 36" W., is covered with bushes, but no trees ; the other is only
a sand-bank. This reef lies deep.

They v;ero examined in 1859 by T'^^t. J. M. Brooke, of the U.S. schooner
Fenimoye Cooper. He lanaod on them, and obtained excellent equal altitudes,
and his observations, which should be preferred, place the flagstaff on the
West islet in lot. 16° ''V 48" N., long. 169° 39' 35" W. He says :— It is a
lagoon island, the reef being in the shape of a quadrilateral, 3J miles in a
N. by E. i E. and S. by W. i W. direction, and ^ miles N.W. by W. i W.
ana &. "^i. by E. J E. On it are two islets, the smaller being N. 55° E. (true)
from the larger, and distant 1 mile. The larger islet is about half a mile long,
E.N.E. and W.S.W., and here (on the eastern side) were the huts and wharf
of the Pacific Guano Company of San Francisco, who claimed possession of it ;
a flagstaff marked its position from the distance. The smaller islet, a mere
sand-bank, is less than a quarter of a mile iu diameter. Breakers extend to
North Pacific, A^.

1034

ISLANDS BETWEEN LAT. 10° AND 20= N.

the North, nearly 1^ mile ; to th<- West the reef approaches the larger islet
within a mile. A bank surrouncui the reef, extending in a S.E. direction 5 or,
6 miles, with 10 to 15 and 20 fathoms on it.

The best anchorage is three-quarters of a mile S.S.E. from the huts under
the flagstaff on the larger island ; in running for it, the flagstaff should be
brought to bear N. by W. i W., though there is nothing to prevent its being
brought on any bearing between North and N.W.

The sea all round the islets is alive with fish of a superior quality ; and birds
are extremely numerous.*

Sol^etman Reef. — In October, 1868, Captain Schjetman, of the Norwegian
ship Anna, states that he passed a breaking coral reef, level with the surface,
in lat. 16° 8' N., long. 178° 66' W. It was about 1 J mile long, North and
South, and about half a mile wide. In 1880, the U.S. ship Alert passed this
position, but observed no signs of the reef.

i < t

■ ?l

SMYTH ISLANDS, Gaspar Bico, or Toangi, a smt*^' group, arc the sub-
ject of some doubt as to their original discovery. On the early Spanish charts,
an island, Gaspar Rico, is placed between lat. 15° and 16° N., and in long.
170° E. In 1625, the Dutch fleet, called the Nassau fleet, passed near to a
low island, which they believed to be Gaspar Rico. In 1796, DonF. Quintano,

* Tho following are doubtful aiinouncemcuts whiuh have boon mndo of diacorerios in thia
vicinity : —

Wilson Iilaiid, lat. 19' 15' N., long. ICG" 40' W. Jlaysn-ous Island, lat. 19" 6' N., long.
163° 33' W., and an island a degree farther West. Commander Skerrett, U.S. ship Portf
mouth, 1874, searched unsiicccsafully for thcso islands, and aUo for Malloon or Maleone
Island, lat. 19° 24' N., long. 165° 18' \V., which another report places in 10° 15', 166° 52'.

An Island, lat. 16° 30' N., long. 163° 50' W., and a thoal 20' to the eastward, were also
not found by Commander Skerrett.

A shoal, from whaler's report, in hit. 18° 26' N., long. 173° 24' W., and another shoal on
the same paralltl, and in long. 170° 30'.

Jane Island, lat. 16° 10' N., long. 173° 15' W.

Tho ships of tho United States' Exploring Expedition passed orer and near to the posi*
tioDB of many of these islands and shoais in clear weather, and for many hundred miles on
their parallel, without seeing anything.

The following are also unknown : —

A shoal, from whaler's report, 13' 30' N., 170' 30' W. ; an island 13» 4' N., 168* 28' W. ;
another island, in 13° 0' N., 165° 40' W. ; an island in 11^° N., 1G3' 65' W., was not seen
by tho Josephine, Capt. Stone. They wore also searched for unsuccessfully by Commander
Skerrett

Gtspar Island, 14° 8' N., 179° 0' E., or 15' 0' N., 179° 20' E. The latter position was
passed over by the United States' Exploring Expedition. Tho same with San Fedro Island,
in 11° 17' N., 179° 0' W., over which tho U.S. ship Natragansett also passed in 1872.

the larger islet
1. direction 5 or

the huts under
istaff should be
revent its being

iility ; and birds

' the Norwegian
ith the surface,
)ng, North and
lert passed this

ip, are the sub-
Spanish charts,
[., and in long,
dssed near to n
on F. Quintano,

discoveries in this

. 19"" 6' N., long.
:, U.S. 8bip Purls-
talloon or Maleone
13° 15', 166' 52'.

itward, were also
I another shoal on

near to the poRi-
hundred miles on

N., 168»28'W.;
iV., was not seen
ty by Commander

tter position was
iSa» Ptdro Island,
led in 1872,

SMYTH ISLANDS— WAKES ISLAND.

1036

in the Spanish ship Maria, discovered a group of five small islands, connected
by rocky banks, which he believed to be San Barlolomeo, discovered by Salazar,
in 1536.

These several discoveries evidently refer to one and the same group. On
December 22, 1807, II.M.S. Cornwallis passed to the northward of a group of
islets and rocks extending 17 miles N.N.W. and S.S.E., the centre of which
was estimated to be in lat. 14"= 30' 30' N., long. 168° 42' 15" E., from the ob-
servations of Lieut. W. H. Smyth, afterwards deservedly celebrated as the sur-
veyor of the Mediterranean, &c. The largest and eastern of the islands re-
ceived the name of Sybilla ; the southernmost, Petrel / the others. Fruitful,
Danger, and Rabbit Islands. The N.W. part of the rocky reef was named the
Hocks of Scylla.

Captain Kotzebue saw these islands March 17, 1817, and sailed along their
West side. His description entirely accords with that given by Lieut. Smyth
and Capt. Quintano. His determination for the centre is lat. 14° 42' N., long.
169° 3' 30" ; but he concedes the difference, 21', between this and that of Lieut.
Smyth, to the latter. They were also seen by the American brig Bolivar,
February 9th, 1833, and then named Farnham Island.

Iiicut. Brooke, of the U.S. schooner Fenimore Cooper, examined the western
side in 1859 ; heavy weather prevented a thorough survey of the reef. This
side consists of a coral wall, with some clumps of rock scattered here and there,
At the northern extremity there are some clumps of rocks partly above water
and partly awash, and to the southward a couple of sand-banks a few feet above
watcrj apparently separated from the northern rocks by a channel, the whole
encircled by breakers which do not run out very far. The group extends
about 9 miles, N.N.W. and S.S.E. ; the eastern extent was not ascertained.
The reef to the westward is very low and very bold,— nearly steep-to ; at the
distance of a mile from the breakers, bottom was just reached at 1,000 fathoms.
There appear to be some detached breakers about a mile north-westward of the
N.W. extremity. Lieut. Brooke made the position of the main clump of rocks
at the N.W. extremity in lat. 14" 41' N., long. 168" 56f E.

According to the latest accounts, the S.W. extreme of this group is in lat.
14° 31' N., long. 169" 1' E. The islands are low, and thinly covered with iron-
wood and bushes, and are situated upon the eastern and northern reef. The
western reef consists of two parallel reefs, having a boat channel into the en-
closed space which has 30 fathoms water in it. There is no passage into the
lagoon even for a boat, and no anchorage,

WAKES ISLAND was discovered by the Prince William Henry, in 1796,
and its position, &c., fixed by the United States' Exploring Expedition in 1840.
It was seen by Capt. Gardner in the whale-ship Bellona, in 1823. He describes
it as being 20 to 25 miles long, with a reef extending 2 miles from the East end,

1036

ISLANDS BETWEEN LAT. 10" AND 20° N.

•I

with detached rocks to tho West. It was well covered with trees. Captain
Sproulc saw it in 1858, in the barque Maria.

This danger is described by Lieut. Wakes as a low island of triangular form,
8 ft. above the surface of the sea, covered by shrubs, with a srtiall reef around
it, lying in lat. 19° 10' 54" N., long. 106" 31' 30" E. It has a largo lagoon in
the centre, filled with a variei^y of fish, among which are some fine mullet. No
fresh water, and no palm or cocoa-nut trees. From appearances, the island is
at times submerged, or the sea makes a breach over it. It was low water at l**
on the moon's last quarter. The reef around is very small.

The description of Capt. Sproule agrees well with this ; so that there is no
doubt his island is identical with that surveyed by Lieut. Wilkes. Captain
Sproule passed this locality repeatedly above and below the parallel of Wakes
Island, and gives evidence that all those islands and reefs marked on the charts,
under the names of Wakes, Halcyon, and Hclsion Islands, are one and the same.
Capt. Brown, of the missionary ship Morning Star, also searched for Halcyon
Island without finding it.

It is thus very probable that Halcyon Island, said by Eotzebue to have
been discovered by an American captain in lat. 19° 23' N., long. 165° 33' E.,
is the same as Wakes Island, because Captain Wilkes passed by its assigned
position without seeing it. Krusenstern calls Wakes Island by the name of
Halcyon, on this supposition. Another authority places Halcyon Island in
19° 6' N., 163° 33' E.*

In 1883, the Germau war-vessel Leipzig passed close to Wakes Island, and
under very favourable circumstances its position was estimated to be latitude
19° 18' N., long. 166° 41' 15" E.

Alligator Shoal. — We have no particulars of this shoal, which Is placed on
the chart in lat. 15° 5' N., long. 154° 20' E.

• An Maud in 19° 31' N., long. 166° 35' E., as announced in tho Alta California, another
island, from whaler report, ou tho same parnllcl, being 2° farther Enst, and also a bank in
20° 0' N., 167° 40' E., must refer to Wakvs Island. The latter bunk was searched for on-
Bucccssfiilly by the U.S. ship Portsmouth.
Besides these the following dotthtful islands may ba enumerated :—
Sail BaHolomco Island ; Maniifl Rodriguez Reef. — An island was discorered in 1536, by
Torito Alonzo de Saliiziir, called S. Bartolomoo, which is placed on Admintl Espinosa's
chiirt in Int. 15° 10' N., long. 163° 43' E., without stating upon what authority. It was
not found on a search of 100 leagues on the parallel assigned to it by Capt. Morlet, of
the French Marine, in November, 1851. In tho memoir of Admiral Espinosa, Manuel
Rodriguez Ucef is placed in lat. 11° 0' N., long. 141° 17' W. ; but these indications are so
raguo that no depondenco can bo place 1 on their acourbcy. It is sufficient horetomentioa
them.

trees. Captnin

triangular form,
mil reef around
largo Ingoon in
fine mullet. No
!C8, the island is
low water at l*"

;hat there is no
'ilkes. Captain
irallel of Wakes
!d on the charts,
ae and the same,
led for Halcyon

)tzebuc to have
ng. 165° 33' E.,
by its assigned
by the name of
Icyon Island in

ces Island, and
to be latitude

ich is placed on

California, another
nd aUo a bank in
I aearched for un-

ered in 1536, by
dmiml Espinosa's
ithority. It was
Cupt. Morlet, of
Bspinosa, Manuel
ndications are so
it hotetomentioA

( 1037 )

MARIANA OR LADRONE ISLANDS.

Tlie orclitpelago of the Marianas or Ladrones is composed of a chain of voU
eanic islands, which extend in a North and South direction for a space of 420
miles, between lat. 13° 12' and 20° 32' N. Magalhacns, the first eircumnavi*
gator, discovered them on March 6th, 1521, but he only saw Tinian, Saypan,
and Aguigan. His companians in the voyage named them the " Islands of the
latteen sails " fTslas de las velas latinasj, on account of the triangular form of
the sails carried by their prahus. The Spaniards named them also Ladrones,
from the great propensity to thieving evinced by the natives, although Father
Gobien, who wrote a history of the archipelago, states that they hold this vice
in detestation. Antonio Galvaom mentions them under the names of Lot
Jardines and Los Prazeras, or Pleasant Islands.

It was in 1668 that they received the name of Marianas, in honour of the
widow of the King of Spain, Philip lY., Maria Anna of Austria. This name
has been continued to the present day, and has nearly absorbed all others given
previously. In 1564 or 1565, Andreas Miguel Lopez Legaspi came hither,
and proclaimed them to be the possession of the crown of Spain, but he stayed
here but a very short time.

The advantage which these islands afforded to the Spaniards, by their situa-
tion on the grand track from Acapulco to Manila, and the facility in procuring
fresh provisions and water here, soon induced them to take actual possession
of them. Under the pretext of converting the natives to the Christian religion,
they founded, in 1668, in the Island of Guahan, a mission under the direction
of Padre dc Sanvitorcs, which soon extended its infiucncc over the other in-
habited islands. The mutual good understanding, however, did not last long
between the missionaries and the natives, who after some months had elapsed
began to revolt against them. They attacked the fort, and killed several of
the Spaniards, but European discipline and fire-arms prevailed, and they were
obliged to yield. The war of extermination and the emigration to other islands
80 destroyed the population, that when Dampier came liither in 1686, that is
eighteen years after the arrival of Padre dc Sanvitorcs, there were not more
than 100 natives on the island. Dampier says that the number had been 400,
but the Spanish authors magnify them into 40,000 and upwards, a great ex-
aggeration. It was not until 1695 that all resistance was quelled, which proves
that up to this date the natives had not abandoned the hope of recovering their
independence ; but an epidemic finished the work of destruction, and when
Anson visited the island of Tinian, he found it entirely deserted. This island,
which once had a population of 30,000 men, was then only inhabited by wild
hogs ond cattle.

The reports of Sanvitorcs, also, confirm the estimates of the population. He
•ays, among other things, that during the first year of his labours he baptized

1038

MARIANA OB LADRONE ISLANDS.

13,000 people, nnd converted 20,000 ; but this must be overrated. The popu-
lation of Ouahan, according to Malespinn, amounted to 4,000 people, but ho
does not say how many of these were of the primitive race. According to
Kotzebue, there were but a single couple in 1817, at the death of whom the
indigenes would become extinct. This is a sad but true picture of the mode
in which the Spaniards facified the natives. The last-named author also tells
us that the Americans, who traded in peltry between the N.W. coast of America
and China, had formed an establishment on the islands of Saypan and Origan.
For this purpose they had brought some families of Sandwich islanders to cul-
tivate the land and raise live stock; but as soon as the Spaniards heard of this,
they sent a detachment of soldiery to the infant colony, who destroyed the
plantations, and carried away with them the Sar Iwich islanders as prisoners.
M. Chamisso, the naturalist in Kotzebue's expedition, has given a detailed
account of this enterprise, undertaken in 1810, by Capt. Brown, of the American
ship Derby.

The most complete nautical account and chart of the archipelago was that
drawn up by M. de Freycinct, who surveyed a portion of the southern part of
the group in the French corvettes L'Uranie and La Physicienne, in 18 lO."*^
The most recent accounts of this remote (and iiseless) Spanish colony are given
by Commander Sanchez y Zayas and Lieut. Camargo, of the Spanish Navy,
and by Capt. Knorr, of the German war-vessel Hertha, as mentioned in the
note below. To these we are indebted for many of the subsequent particulars,
which are incorporated with the remarks by Frcycinet.

Iliere has been much confusion in the names of the northern islets, in-
creased by the addition to the chart of an island which does not exist. These

* The accounts of the progreu of discovery in this group will bo found in Ilerrera,
decnd. 3, 1. 7, et, Bsq. ; Argensola, Conquista do laa Molucas, lib. i. ; Gon:ak» de Oeinio,
Hist, de las Tndias ; Oomara, Hist. Gen. de las Indias ; Ultimo Viaga al Esitrocho do ]\la-
galhaens, p. 206, &c. ; Anson's Vcyago Round tho World, by Kichard Walter, book iii.,
chap. 2; Byron's Voyage, in Hawkesworth's Collection, vol. i., p. 116, et seq. ; Wiillis's
Voyage, ibid., vol. i., p. 279, et seq. ; Portlock's Voyage, p. 317 ; Gilbert's Voyngo of tho
Charlotte, 1788, pp. 66-7 ; Voyage of Governor Phillip to Botany Bay, 1789, p. 255. Ob-
servations, &c., on a Voyage to Teneriffe, Tinian, &c., in the brig Mercury, commanded by
Xj, U. Cox, by Lieut. George Mortimer, 1791, p. 64, ct seq. ; Voyage do L' Astrolabe et
Zelee, tome v., pp. 202 — 336; Freycinet's Voyage, Faiis, 1826; Navigation et Hydrog,,
chap. xL, pp. 190 — 221 ; and the Voyage of the •'Spanish corvette Narvaez, by her com-
mander D. E. Sanchez y Zayas, Anuario do la Direccion de Hidrografia, iii, 1865, and a
translation of the same by Lieut. MacDermott, of the French Navy, in the Annales Hy-
drograpbiques, 1866-7.

Among later sources of information may be mentioned the notes on Guam Island, by
Lieut. Camargo, published in the Anuario for 1873, and a translation of tho same by Lieu^.
d'llombres, in the Annales Hydrographiques, 1876; and the Report of the visit of the
German war-vessel Hertha, in Annalen dar Hydrographie, 1876.

d. The popu-
pcople, but be

According to
I of whom the
of the mode
uthor also telU
)H8t of America
an and Origan,
slanders to oul-
a heard of this,

destroyed the
8 as prisoners,
iven a detailed
)f the American

elago was that
outhern part of
mne, in 1819*
olony ore given
Spanish Navy,
intioncd in the
ent particulars,

bern islets, in-
)t exist. These

cund in Herrcra,
on:alcs de Ocicdo,
Ebtrccho do 31a-
SVnlter, book iii.,

et seq. ; Wiillis's
's Voyngo of tha
r89, p. 255. Ob-
■y, commanded by
do L' Astrolabe et
ition et Uydrog.,
aez, by hor com-

iii, 1869, and a
the Annates Hy-

Guam Island, by
ho same by Lieu'.
f the visit of the

MARIANA OR LADRONE ISLANDS.

1039

diaercponcies have been rectified by Commander Sanchez y Zayas, as hereafter
explained.

P*rom the statistics gathered by Commander Sanchez y Zayas, there were
4,060 inhabitants in 1800, which number increased to 5,400 in 1818 ; to 8,609
in 1849; and to 9,500 in 1850. I3ut in the last-named year small-pox broke
out in the archi])clago, and in the course of that year carried off hnlf the people,
reducing the numbers to 4,556 souls. In 1865, the population was reckoned
ns 5,G10, of which 4,824 M'ere on Guajan, 335 on Ilota, 18 on Tinian, and 435
on Saypan; the other islands being uninhabited. The group is under the
outhority of a military Governor, residing at Agafia.

The indigenous race called Chamorros very much resemble the Tagals and
Visayos of the Philippines, but are perhaps more indolent, — a fault oompcn-
Sated for by good qualities, of whicli sobriety and unselfishness may claim
notice. The Caroline islanders, who have been import9.d, are naturally activo
and industrious.

The primitive inhabitants of the archipelago have left some memorials of
their talent behind them, like those of the monuments on Easter Island, at the
opposite extreme of the Pacific Islands. In Tinian these structures are re-
markable. They are described in Lord Anson's Voyage, where a view is given
of one, and they are mentioned by other and later visitors. Lieut. Mortimer
says they consisted, in the state he saw them, of two ranges of columns, either
of stone or composition, and of a pyramidal form, 5 feet 4 inches broad at the
base, and 14 feet high, having large semi-globes, 5 feet 10 inches in diameter,
placed on the tops, with their flat surfaces upwards. These singular strueturesi
which are not all exactly alike, are supposed by Freycinet to be the supports of
a wooden ceiling to which the roofs of the principal houses were affixed. But
this opinion is not participated in by other authors, and a further examination
points to the inference that they are sepulchral monuments of the former in-
habitants. There are numerous similar remains on the other islands, especially
at Asan, near Agaiia in Guahan ; but here they are smaller, and constructed of
stone.

Deer and wild goats are found in abundance, and form the principal food of
the Europeans (Spaniards) ; cows and pigs are also reared. Potatoes, inaize,
and rice are indigenous ; and cocoa, coffee, and hemp are cultivated.

Climate. — It rains very heavily at the Marianas, and it may be affirmed that
there are no dry and rainy seasons — it rains in torrents every day. The enormous
evaporation of the Pacific is condensed in passing over the islands, so that with
'winds from every quarter rain is abundant at all hours of the day or night.
The Narvaez was here in December and January, the period of the so-called
dry season, but rain was abundant every day, and the natives were surprised
at the weather being considered as wet.

The temperature is mild, and much cooler than at the Philippines, but the
inhabitants declared that the heat in August and September was almost suffd-

1040

MARIANA OR LADRONK ISLANDS.

1 !

oating. This must arise from the interruption of the N.E. trade wind, which
blows throughout the year with the exception of these two months, during
which the effects of the S. W. monsoon apparently reach to the Marianas. At
this time there is generally a dead calm, for the monsoon itself has not sufR>
cicnt force to reach the archipelago. It is therefore the season of intense heat,
rnin, and storms, and frequently of terrible hurricanes.

Admiral Krusenstern makes the following observations on this subject: —
The Murinnns lie in the region of the North tro])ic, and consequently in that of
the N.E. trade winds. But this is not the prevalent wind. The N.E. and
S.W. monsoons, which are met with in the Cliina Scu, on the coasts of China,
ond near the Philippine Islands, extend as far as the Marianas, and sometimes
even beyond them ; so that the limits between the monsoons and the trade
winds must be found somewhere near this archipelago, as is explained in a sub-
sequent pigc, in treating of the winds nnd currents.

Currents generally following the direction of the winds, it is probable that
it is also the case near the Marianas. But Capt. Golownin met with a rapid
current bearing to the N.E., although the wind blew from that quarter ; and a
Spanish officer affirms that a similar current generally flows in this part ; but
this phenomenon may proceed from some local cause, and is but an exception,
and does not affect the general rule.

From reci * observations it is stated that the currents in the Mariana Archi-
pelago set to ti. " ^V . at the rate of about three-quarters of a mile an hour,
during nine months o> vear, and to the N.E. during the remaining three
months.

Between the islands of Tinian and Aguijan a violent cm-rent was remarked
in the Centurion, the direction of which was alternately S.S.E. and N.N.W.
This would prove the existence of regular tides. The flood, which bore to the
N.N.W., was more rapid than tic obb, ar.d lasted longer. Pasco-Thomas also
remarked, that, during the byzv^;\os, the flood was 2 ft. less than at the qua-
dratures, which is contrary to v.!m^ usually occurs. The greatest rise of water
was 8 ft. ; with S.W. winds t)... flood rose higher than with other winds,
From later observations the tides are found to be insignificant, the greatest rise
not exceeding 3 ft.

Observations on the Winds, by M. de Freycinet. — We remarked that in April
and May the wind at the island of Guahan almost always blew freshly from
E.N.E. to E.S.E. It sprang up at break of day, became very fresh towards 8
or 10 a.m., and was calm during the night. The sky was most generally clear;
sometimes it was overcast with thick clouds, which, driven with great rapidity,
gave place to showers and strong gusts.

When the horizon was overcast to the S.W., N.W., and West, with a black
mass, not high, the sea began to break on the inner banks at Luis Harbour. It
also occurred that, notwithstanding the continuance of the easterly winds, the
.8.W. and westerly swell rendered the luirrow passages between these reefs im-

T ^ a^..

or AM.

^041

trade wind, whioH

months, during
:he Marianas. At
self has not tuffi-
}u of intense heat,

m this subject: —
pquently in that of
I. The N.E. and
ic coasts of China,
las, and sometimes
ons and the trade
explained in a sub-

it is probable that

met with a rapid

[lat quarter ; and a

in this part; but

1 but an exception,

the Mariana Archi-
>f a mile nn hour,
10 remaining three

ent wos remarked
S.E. and N.N.W.
which bore to the
Pasco-Thomas also
ss than at the qua-
eatest rise of water
with other winds,
it, the greatest rise

arked that in April
blew freshly from"
;ry fresh towards 8
)st generally clear ;
vith great rapidity,

West, with a black
t Luis Harbour. It
easterly winds, the
eea these reefs im-

prncticable. During our ntny, storms, accompanied by rain, were very frequent,
but of short duration. Thunder was never heard.

The monsoons are felt ni the Marianas ; that from the West takes place from
the middle of June to the middle of October. The wind, however, only blows
violently for three months of the year. Hurricanes are comparatively rare ;
earthquakes, on the contrary, arc tolerably frequent. Of the first-mentioned
scourges, there had not been one for seven years prior to our vLsit.

Between the years 1850 ond 1875, fifteen typhoons or hurricanes M-ere ex-
perienced at Guam, eight of them occurring in the month of November, two in
February, three in April, and one in June and September.

According to Don Luis dc Torres, the months of July to November arc the
season of bod weather, storms, thundcf, and rain ; and in December, January,
and February, the weather is variable ; March, April, May, and June, are the
finest ; the breeze (hen comes from East and N.K. The months when the winds
blow strongest are August, September, October, and November ; they blow at
these periodH from N.W. to S.W. by W., sometimes from South and S.E., but
in general rather between North and West than from North itself.

Observations on the Winds, Sfc, by Lieut. Camaryo. — The winds in these
islands follow the general law of the N.E. trade wind ; tliey are sometimes
modified by the monsoons of the China Sea, on the limit of which thr^y lie.
The S.W. monsoon is only light, but the N.E. is fresher and blows longer. It
lai' Tom the middle of October to the end of June, which is the fine season.
During July and August it blows from the S.W. ; it has less strength, but is
accompanied by strong squalls and heavy rain. It rains sometimes during the
N.E. monsoon, but it never lasts longer than three days. 'J he N.E. monsoon
is strongest during December and January. At the end of February it becomes
feeble ; turns to East and even, though rarely, to E.S.E. ; it freshens in the
latter half of March, and blows moderately. After this it dies away gradually
till July, when the S.W. monsoon sets in.

Hurricanes follow here the same laws as in the China Sea. Their influence
is rarely felt at the change of the monsoon from N.E. to S.W. ; but at this
period there are strong breezes or nortades. Hurricanes are only felt in Sep-
tember and October, at the change to the N.E. monsoon, when the northern
is'nnds of the archipelago are often devastated.

The Currents are modified by those of the China Sea, running to the S.W.
for nine months, and to the N.E. for the other three months, following the
monsoons, the S.W. setting about three-quarters of a mile an hour.

GUAM,* Guajan, or Guahan, is the southernmost and principal of the

• Guam is spelt in the Atlas Uistoriquo of Froycinet's "Voyage, GMiam, the w being
equivalent to the diphthong ou. Most of the words usually spelt with this, the Itilian u or
English 00, are thus written in the excellent map in question.

North Pacific. . . 6 r

I I

I )

i i

1042

MARIANA OR LADRONE ISLANDS.

Marianas, inasmuch as it is the seat of government, and is also the largest of
them. Besides this, it is the only one inhabited to any extent, the population
in 1873 amounting to about 7,000. It is 29 miles in length, N.E. by N. and
S.W. by S., and of irregular breadth, 10 miles where widest, narrowing in its
centre to not more than 3 miles. Except on the N.E. side, where there is no
laiiding, it is bordered throughout the greater part of its circuit with a chain
of reefs, which are uncovered at times. Excellent old Dampier thus describes
the island :— " At a distance it appears flat and uneven, but coming near it,
you will find it stands shelving, and the East side, which is much the highest,
is fenced with steep rocks, that oppose the violence of the sea, which continu-
ally rages against it, being driven by the constant trade wind, and on that side
there is no anchoring (except for small vessels). The West side is pretty low,
and full of small sandy bays, divided with as many rocky points. The soil of
the island is reddish, dry, and indifferently fruitful. The fruits are chiefly rice,
pine-ap])les, water-melons, musk-melons, oranges and limes, cocoa-nuts, and a
sort of fruit called by us bread-fruit. The cocoa-nut trees giow by the sea
on the western side in great groves, 3 or 4 miles in length, and 1 or 2 miles
broad."

It was surveyed by M. Duperrey, under the orders of Captain Frcycinet, in
1819. He went round it in a boat; and in the Atlas attached to the Voyage
of Z' Uranie are some excellent and detailed plans.

The North side of the island is rather low, the small hills of Santa Eosa,
about 630 ft. high, being the only elevation, but to the southward it is more
mountainous, Mount Tiniquio forming several peaks, of no great elevation.

Point Ajayan, the S.E. extremity of Guam, is in lat. 13" 14' N., long.
144" 44' E. To the West of it is Ajaynn (Ahayan) Z?rty, singularly obstructed
by reefs. The South end of Guam is an uninterrupted sandy beach fronted by
reefs, having two or three small islandj on it. Cocos Island, formerly called
DanioHo, and near to it BuU Isluncl,\\c 2i milo; from the S.W. point of Guam.
It is a mile long, low and barren, with some treofl, among which was a single
cocoa-nut tree, which gives its name. It is surrounded by 'cefs, which, extend-
ing to the northward, form between It and the actual S.W. point of Guam the
small boat harbour <if Merizo. The whole of this part of Guam should be
cautiously aj)proached.

The people at this part of Guam were much aflflicted with leprosy. The town
of Meri&o, about IJ^ mile southward of Umata Hay, contained only 22 houses,
and 146 lazy and dirty, inhabitants, the only house that was habitable being
that of the padre.

Sauta Koia Shoal lies to the S.S.W. of Guam. Admiral Krusenstern men-
tions it with some doubt as to its existence, but of this there is no question.
Dampier saw it in 1686, on approaching the island. " They sailed over a rocky
shoal, on which there was but 4 fathoms water, and abundance of fish swim-
ming about the rucks." The Spanish gallenn, too, arrived from Acapulco while

GUAM-UMATA BAY.

1043

Iso the largest of
nt, the population
,N.E. by N. and
t, narrowing in its
where there is no
ircuit with a chain
pier thus describes
at coming near it.
I much the highest,
jea, which continu-
id, and on that side
t side is pretty low,
loints. The soil of
uits are chiefly rice,
8, cocoa-nuts, and a
ces gi-ow by the sea
I, and 1 or 2 miles

laptain Frcycinet, in
,chcd to the Voyage

hills of Santa Bosa,
outbward it is more
,0 grciit elevation.
,t. 13" H' N., long,
singularly obstructed
mdy beach fronted by
land, formerly called
;S.W. point of Guam,
g which was a sin(;le
• reefs, which, cxtcnd-
W. point of Guam the
■t of Guam should be

rith leprosy. The town
ained only 22 houses,
,t was habiublo being

niral Krusenstem men-
B there is no question.
rhcy sailed over a rocky
lundance of fish swim-
red from Acapulco while

he lay at Guam ; but, avoiding Dimpicr's ships, sailed to the southward, and
struck on this shoal, knocking off her rudder, and not getting clear till after
three dayn' hard labour. It must be at a considerable distance off lor after some
hours' sail, they sighted Gi'.am, 8 leagues distant. On Cantova's chart it is
made 20 leagues in extent, E.N.E. and W.S.W., and about half as broad. Its
position may be about lat. 12° 30' N., long. 144" 15' E.

On Mr. Dalrymplc's chart, a bank, discovered in 1740 by Galvez, is made to
be 20 miles tc the S.W. of Guam, in lat. 13° ; but this has not since been found ;
an American vessel, among others, passed over the site in 1804, without find-
ing bottom. This may be the same as that mentioned by Dumpier, but it is
piobably not of the extent delineated by Cantova.

I7mata Bay, 4 miles northward of Cocos Island, is about one-third of a mile
deep, East and West, it« entrance being 3 cables wide. It is perfectly shel-
tered between North and South, round by East ; but in the season of westerly
winds, or from June to September, it is imprudent, or perhaps impossible, to
remain here, on account of the heavy sea sent in.

The South coast of the bay is mountainous from Cape Chalan Aniti to its
head, where is the River Umnia or Saloupa, the usual watering-place. Tlie
North coast is low, and the town stands here. The church, built at the foot
of the mountain, fronts the eastern part of the bay ; a small rivulet, the Sabo
River, flows between the church and the Governor's house. liehind the town
the hills rise in an amphitheatre, and are neither high nor remarkable. On the
South side of the bay, on the contrary, Inayo Mount, opposite the Governor's
house, is remarkable ; and farther West is another of 120 or 130 ft, high, on
the summit of which is the fort of N. S. de la Soledad. Betweeii these two
hills flows a rivulet of excellent water, called the Chioreto,

Umati was destro oJ by an earthquake on February 25th, 1849, as shown
by stone inscriptions on the ruins of the Governor's house and the church ;
and in 187u it was found to be a wretched place, wiih only 157 inhabitants.
Although the fortldcationa still looked imposing on paper, they have not a
single gun.

Point I'ouyouene, the South entrance point of Uraata Buy, is low, pointed,
and guarded by a narrow chain of reefs extending nearly u cable westward of
it. On the North point of the bay is an isolated and picturesque rock, ou
which Fort i'ant' Amjel is built, approached by steps cut in the rock. About
a cable North of it is another. Fort San Josi. A ruined buttery at the bottom
of the bay opposite the church is culled N. S. del Carmen. Forts San Jo8« and
N. 8. de la Soledad are plainly disceru'blo by their whiteness.

The anchorage is in 7 J luthonis, sand and shells, with l''ort Sant' Atigel
bearing N.E. by M. i N., and Fort N. S. de S.iledad S.E. by E. i E., in the
mouth of the bay.

From UmaU Bay the coast trends N.W. by N. i N., 3 miles, to Point Facpi,
in lat. 13° lU' 50" N., long. 144" 37 Iv, forming several sinuosities in the space.

1044

MARIANA OR LADRONE ISLANDS.

■ ];!

Hi.

the deepest of which is Ceili Bay, as large as that of Umata. Point Facpi is
remarkable for being pointed, projecting, and terminating in an isolated rock,
joined to the shore by a breaking reef, uncovered at low water. Thence to
Point Oroti, the West point of the peninsula of the same name, the coast pre-
sents a bay of 6 miles opening and 2 miles deep, in which are several coves
and islets. The town of Agat, with about 650 inhabitants, is at the bottom
of this bay, and oiF it there is good anchorage in N.E. winds, but the landing
is difficult on account of the reefs. The land appears to be very fertile and
pleasant.

Agat is now one of the most important places next to Agaiia. It contained
36 native houses, a poor church, and a stone house for the padre. To the
S.W. of Agat, 2 miles distant, is Aloupan or Alutuny Island, at the West ex-
tremity of a reef stretching two-thirds of a mile off Point Baugne. From
Agat to Orote Point the distance is 3J miles to N.W. The S.W. face of the
Orote Peninsula is formed by a cliff, apparently steep-to. The whole of this
peninsula is madreporic, and cannot be traversed, on account of the prodigious
number of rocks and precipices which cover it.

POET SAN LUIS D'APKA.— From Point Orot6, near which is a small
ibland, the coast trends first E. by S., then S.E. by S., to the village of Apra,
built on the isthmus, with a rude landing-place ; thence it turns to the East and
North, thus forming a large indentation nearly in the shape of a V, the open-
ing of which is^ nearly closed by a long and narrow coral island, named Cabras
or Apapa, and numerous reefs. The bay is very extensive and safe, but has a
great many banks, coral rocks, and islets, especially iu the S.E. part. The
entrance is contracted by the continuation of Cabras Island in the form of a
line of reefs, the Luminan Reefs, and the Tirado or Catalan Banks, which
come within about one-third of a mile of Orote Island, leaving a deep channel,
the usual entrance. In 1873, the entrance was stated to be only 2 cables wide,
Catalan Bank having extended to the southward.

The distance between Apapa Island and Cape Orote is 2 J miles in a W.S.W.
direction; but Luminan Reefs, extending 1^ mile westward of Apapa Island,
contract the passage to one-bulf the width, which, besides this, is made
still more difficult by Catalan Bank lying precisely in the middle of the pas-
siige. But as there is a good passage on either side of this shoal, half a mile
in breadth, this entrance would be scarcely dangerous, if care be taken to mark
its two extremities with buoys or flags. The depth in the passage to the N.E.
of the bank not being more than 5^ fathoms, coral bottom, Captain Kotzebue
advises ships to pass by the channel S.W. of the bank, and to keep as close as
possible on the Orote side, where the depth of water i& sufficient for the largest
ships. After passing beyond the bank a basin is entered, where anchorage
nmy be taken if circumstances demand it ; but, as the water in it is of a very
^reat depth, and the bottom is bad, it would be better, if the wind and tides
allow, to keep ou the course to the inner pan of the harbour, where you may

tf f

GUAM— rORT SAN LUIS D'APRA.

1045

Facpi is
ted rock,
hence to
oast pre-
ral coves
le bottom
e landing
xtile and

contained
To the
West ex-
From
ice of the
le of this
irodigious

is a small
J of Apra,
e East and
, the open-
led Cabras
, but has a
)art. The
form of a
nks, which
?p channel,
ables wide,

I a W.S.W.
apa Island,
s, is made
of the pas-
half a mile
:en to mark
to the N.E,
u Kotzebue
I as close as
' the largest
! anchorage
is of a very
d and tides
.'le you niiiy

anchor at the distance of a quarter of a mile off the small island of Santa Cruz,
in 15 fathoms. At the period of Kotzebue's visit, in 1817, there was a battery
of three six-pounders on this island.

In the centre of the basin is a rock level with the water, on which Fort
Santa Cruz is built, in lat. 13° 25' 45-3'' N., long. 144° 39' 45" E. The usual
anchorage is about 2 cables to the North of this, in a basin of 4 to 15 fathoms,
mud, surrounded by coral patches 2 or 3 ft. beneath the surface. The channels
leading to it are frequently narrow, the last before entering being not more
than 120 yards wide. The patches are very steep- to, and may be approached
almost to touching, The best anchorage is in 22 fathoms, coral sand, with tho
West end of Cabrr.8 Island bearing N.E., and Fort Santa Cruz 8.E. i S. The
tide rises from 3 to 4J^ ft. Outside the harbour the current sets constantly to
the westward.

Landing is very inconvenient, the shore being everywhere fringed with coral
reefs. The best landing, if wishing to proceed to Agatia, is at Punto Piti oppo-
site Cabras Island, about 1^ mile from the anchorage; the point is white-
washed, and there is a small pier.

From the entrance of the port to the Island of Santa Cruz the distance is 2
miles ; it would perhaps be dangerous to attempt to beat in or out against a
contrary wind, as Kotzebue did ; it would be more prudent to wait for the
West wind, which springs up every morning at daybreak, and to tow through
the naiTowest part of the passage. A small river falls into the harbour at
three-quarters of a mile eastward of Santa Cruz Island, and this is the watering
place ; but the boats ought to be sent at high water, because at other times it
would be difficult to reach the mouth of the river. The casks are filled at low
water, and you wait for high water to get off again. At Sumaye, westward of
Santa Cruz Island, some beef, fowls, eggs, and vegetables may be obtained.

The port dues amount from half a dollar on Spanish vessels of less than 10
i ns to 5^ dollars on vessels of 750 tons and over. Foreign vessels pay double
xhi'',o rates.

• Lie shores of the Bay of Apra were depopulated, and the villages of Apra
<■„ tbt head of the bay, of Aj'ayan in the South part of the island, Tarafofo on
t.<f '" ist coast, and Ilic near to it, disappeared during the epidemic of 1859.
1 here was only one medico in the whole archipelago, and the small-pox ran its
jourse, and in many cases left not a single survivor.

Soumaye, on the West side of the beach at Apra Harbour, is the place
chiefly resorted to by the vessels lying here. It had 29 decent houses, and
the people are more obliging hero than elsewhere. It is due West of Fort
Santa Cruz.

From San Luis the coast runs to the E.N.E., and then North, IJ mile, to
roint Acahi-Fanahi, a perpendicular rock, near which lies the small island of
damn. The reefs from Apra Island reach to the latter. At 1 J mile from
I'oiiit Acahi-Fanahi is Point Adeloup, better known to the inhabitants as

1046

MARIANA OR LADRONE ISLANDS.

' I i

'.'i

Punta del Diablo, on account of the extreme rapidity of the current!', which
make it very difficult to be doubled. A Bandy beach commences immediately
after Point del Diablo, which trends to the East and North, forming the Bay
of Agana, in the middle of which is the harbour and town of Agaiia, the
capital of the archipelago. Aloupan or Alutung Island forms the N.E. ex-
tremity of this bay ; it nearly touches Point Apurguan or Apuequan, and
makes apparently a secure anchorage, but it is too shallow except for small
boats.

AOAHA C(- .^^.'Ins the principal part of the inhabitants of the Marianas, and
bears the lofty i' he City of S. lynacio de Agana, but it is a smftll town

of about 3,500 init its. The greater part of the houses are but poor Indian
cabins, thatched witu cocoa-nut leaves, but there are a few stone houses for the
better classes. The chief buildings are the Governor's house, the arsenal,
barracks, the church, and the college. The last was founded in 1673, the first
establishment in the archipelago. There is a convict establishment here. The
streets are wide, clean, and regular. A small but clear stream traverses the
city, and is crossed by two stone bridges, and the appearance of the place, with
its rich vegetation, is pleasant, but the population is lifeless and apathetic. A
large portion of the half-breed Indians are copper-coloured, with extremely
light hair, — a feature which has arisen from the intercourse of the American
and English whalers. Prior to the opening of the Japanese ports they fre-
quently came here ; their visits are now rare. Only poultry and vegetables
can be obtained.

The town is built on the sea-shore, but in a most inconvenient position, and
the landing is obstructed by breaking reefs. There is not even anchorage be-
fore it, for the coral bottom renders a stay impossible, and to be off and on is
attended with much hazard. This is the only mode of calling here, unless,
which is better, the vessel proceeds to San Luis de Apra, for which a pilot
may be obtained here.* There is a good road between the two places, the
only one on the island, but the distance, a league, is too far to walk iu this
climate.

The coajt from Apuequan Point to Point Tumun is of steep rocks, and all
the detached points hence to the northward of the island are absolutely alike.
At 2^ miles to the N.E. of Point Tumun is Point de lot Amantes, Tumun Bay
lying between. This bay appears to be filled with reefs, but there are several
passages through it, where boats can reach the shore without difficulty.
Near the middle of the bay, and to the South of the village of Gnaton, a
cross was erected to the memory of Padre Sanvitores, the martyr of tho

I '

* Ar. ingtanco of the dangerous nature of Agana Bay was afforded by tho wreck of tho
BritiHh ship Inviiieible, January 6, 1866, She came in without a pilot, and inaisted on
leaving next day. With some uasiatance she got out, but was immediately daahwl to pieces
ou the rocks to the West of the outruuce ; the crew were saved with diiliculty.

I i

GUAM-PORT TARAFOFO-EOTA ISLAND.

I041

t«, which
mediately
g the Bay

gana, the

N.E. ex-
quan, and
)t for small

rianas, and
amf.U town
)oor Indian
uses for the
the arsenal,
73, the first
it here. The
raverses the
} place, with
jathctic. A
h extremc'y
he American
rts they fre-
id vegetabUs

position, and
anchorage be-
off and on is
; here, unless,
which a pilot
vo places, the
) walk in this

rocks, and all
bsolutely alike.
ts, Tumun Bay
lere are several
bout difficulty.
B of Gn»ton, a

martyr of the

the wreck of tho
it, and insisted on
ly dashttd to piuccB
liculty.

Marianas, who was killed on this point by a native chief, while he was bap-
tizing a child.

From Point de los Amantes to Point Nigo the coast trends N.N.E. ; it is
barren and uninhabited. Southward of this latter point is the exposed an-
chorage of Falcone.

Point Eitidian, the N.W. point of Guam, is in lat. 12° 38' 54" N., long.
144° 51' 58" E. A short distance inland the perpendicular hills form, scarcely
without interruption, the circuit of the island on the East side. The coral
reefs trend to the S.E. from Point Ritidian to rdnt Tagua, forming the shore.
From this the land trends East a mile to Point Patay, the N.E. point of the
island.

The eastern coast of the island, as far as Tarafofo Harbour, offers no shelter
to the navigator, and ought, therefore, to be avoided during the eastern mon-
soon. The only openings are Pago Harbour ^ in lat. 13° 24}', accessible only
for boats, and Ilic Bay, 2 miles to the southward, and equally unimportant.

Port Tarafofo, 4} miles South of Ilic Bay, is the only harbour, next to San
Luis, which will receive vessels at all seasons of the year. There are no rocks
in it, nor is there any danger. It is formed of two small, deep bays, the
northern of which, Tarafofo, is open to the East, in which direction it is half
a mile long, and about 1^ cable wide. The other, on the South side of the
entrance, is smaller, and is called Paicpouc Cove. Tarafofo River, the most
considerable in Guam, enters the head of the bay. Madreporic hills, very
steep, descend on both sides of the harbour to the water. That of Mahilouc,
on the North side, is celebrated in the history of the country. A point at
the head of the bay, on the South end of the sandy beach, is in lat. 13° 18' 9" N.,
long. 144° 46' 14" E. There was no village in the vicinity.

From Tarafofo to Ulomnia or Hounlodgna Bay, \\ mile to the 8.W., the
land is low, with sandy beaches and rocky points. The bay is only fit for
boats. Ynarajan Bay, a mile farther to the 8.W., is a quarter of a mile wide
in the opening, and half a mile deep, but reefs fringing the shore considerably
contract the anchorage. It is open from East to South, and during westerly
winds a vessel would be perfectly safe in it, but not with the opposite. The
village of Ynarajan is on the S.W. side; in 1875 it had 27G inhabitants, a
church, and house for the priest. At the head of the bay are several streams.
[Point Goal, on the North side of the entrance, is in lat. 13° 16' 30" N., long.
U44° 45' 18" E.

Agfayan Bay, three-quarters of a mile S.W. of Ynarajan, is smaller than
tie latter. It may have good anchorage for vessels of less than 15 ft. draught.
it is open to E.N.E. ; and at its head is a small brook, where boats can readily
procure water. Ajayan Point, the S.E. point of Guam, has been before men-
lioned.

' BOTA ISLAND {Zarpane or Sarpan), called Luta by the present inhabit-
ilits, lies N.E. by N. } N., 30 miles, from the North end of Guam, the channel

1048

MARIANA OR LADROXE ISLANDS.

Ill

■ "

between being clear of known dangers. It is 12 miles long. N.lv by V- and
8.W. by W., and 6J miles in breadth, and nearly surrounded by reefs. It is
hilly in its East and North portions, particularly so in the centre, where it is
about 800 ft. high, but it becomes lower, in the form of an amphitheatre, to
the S.W., to a low and sandy isthmus, where the villages of Sosaulago or Soxmn
Hagno and Soianfnya or Soxsan Ilaya are built. To thcS.W. of this isthmus
ta the S.W. point, called Taipingon Point, a hill terminating in a level and very
regular plateau.

The S.E. side of the island is tolerably high nnd perpendicular on the sea-
shore, presenting thus a straight wall, and at its angles vertical fissures like the
embrasures of a fort. In other parts the land >' ends gradually to the sea,
terminating in long and low points. Its N.W. coast and the S.E. side of the
isthmus arc bestrewed with numerous rocks, on which the sea breaks, more or
less, according to the direction of the wind. The portion of the island not in-
habited is so encumbered with bushes (on the North side only are some cocoa-
nut trees) that it is difficult to penetrate.

Three wells furnish water to the people ; two of them are artificial, nnd the
water is detestable ; the third, which is natural, affords Letter, though it is
brackish. On the East coast, at 5 miles from the villages, there is a rivulet
of very good water. There are some cattle and pigs on the island.

Captain Sanchez y Zayas gives tlie following remarks on Uota : —

The two villages are more properly two streets which, collectively, arc called
Rota They consist of seventy-nine huts of leaves and bamboos, a small her-
mitage called a church, a house for the ixidre, and a sort of hovel which they
call the royal house. The priest is the only Eurojwan, and there were .IIJo in-
habitants. There is anchorage opposite to either village. 'I'he (streets are
built on the sandy isthmus, which is so low that tlie sea threatens to break
over it in bad weather, when the people take refuge in a cavern near Sosnu-
jaya. lliis cavern is exceedingly curious, abounding in crystul.s, nnd of un-
known but great extent. It is stated that there is an extinct cruter on tho
summit of the island, but it must be of great antiquity, for tho trees cover it
luxuriantly. On the flanks of the mountain there arc scattered a great number
of ancient stone monuments, apparently sepulchral, and belonging to an age
anterior to the Chamorros or last inhabitants.

The anchorage of Somnlngo, to the N.W. of the sandy isthmus, is very bad.
There is but a smatl space for anchorage on the reef, and the bottom is rocky,
beaides which the depth is most uneven. The Nurvaez was (juite brought up
to shoal water, and the anchor dropped in a hole .30 fathoms deep. 'Hie ground
all around the island is of coral, which will explain this, and the channel through
requires a pilot.

The roadstead of Sotanjaya, on the opposite side of the isthmus, is almost
as bad as the other, with this distinction, that here the const is rocky, ami
there is no landing. Although the Narvaez was here protected from the N.E.

ys.

AOriJAN-TINTAN.

1049

wind and swell, yot, to land, thr bont« had to pull around Point Taipingon for
S miles to get to the viliajju. Capt. Sanchez y Zayos thinlcH that it iH the worst
in the Marianas.

The only refreshments to be got here are poultry, bananan, and oranges,
which the people will exchange for useful things, such as clothes, nails, or
utensils, in preference to money. Water is scarce, bad, and difficult to em-
bark •

Aga^an, or Agrigan. — At 44 miles N.N.E. of Rota is the small island of
Aguijan, not more than 3 miles long, and 2 miles wide. In its North part arc
high, perpendicular, and ne»rly naked rocks, their summits crowned with a
thick w(Hid. At a distance this island appears parched and barren, but this is
not so when closer. At about three-quarters of a mile to the S.W. of Aguijan
there are three rocks, small and perpendicular, between which and the island
there is a passage for the largest ship. The island is uninhabited. It is said
that the inhabitants of Tinian formerly carried some goats to Aguijan ; they
may have multiplied greatly, for it is but little frequented. The only points
fit for landing are on the West and N.W. sides, in some very small creeks,
lined with sandy beaches. Its centre is in lat. 14'' 53' 30', long. 145° 30' E.

TINIAN, or Bona Viata, is seimrated from Aguijan by a channel 5 miles
broad. It has been celebrated for its fertility and the prodigious quantity of
cattle; in 1876 it contained about 200 inhabitants. It is 10 miles in extent.
North and South, and 4 J miles broad. Sunhuron or Amon lioad, on the
B.W. side of the island, being open, and the bottom very bad, cannot be
recommended as an anchornge, particularly between the months of June and
October; at other times it is secure. Lord Anson onchored here, August 27,
1742, in 22 fathoms, on a bottom of hard sand and corn!, about IJ mile off
shore; at this position the two extremes of the island bore N.W. i N. and
S.E. \ E. ; the centre of Aguijan Island. S.S.W. ; the peak of Saypan Island
was visible over the island of Tininn, N.E. by N. J N. ; and a reef of rocks
lying between the vessel and the shore, E. by S. j| S.

The first account of the Mariana .\rchipeIago that deserves the attention of
navigators is that given by Hichard Walter, the chaplain to CoinmtKlore Anson,
in his voyoge round the world, who came to Tinian as just stated, and remained
till the ei\d of October, 1742. Frightful ravages had b«'en made by scurvy in
the ill-fated crew of the Ceuturion, in a j)revious part of her voyage. They
arrived here in their floating hospital, and by means of the refreshments spon-
timeously produced, they all recovered in a week. Walter draws the picture

• KMiibitU Island* - in 18-12, Captain Kiiiibull rojxirted (in thu San Friiicisco llorald)
that he had nc'iiii a group of sumll i.«landH in W 'IW N., loiii,'. U'l" lu K, or 2i)0 mili'S
easlwitrd of Uutn. Nothing more i» kuuwa uf ihuui, and they may bu plucod u« vury
doubtful.

yuith Facijic. ^

«?'

10.10

MAKTANA OH T-ADIKA'F, ISLANDS.

! i

) i

of Tiiiian in the most plowiu'* colourn. The healthy ntid dry soil, the honuty "f
Its natural meadows, the divorsitioil woods nnd lawns, vnllovH niul hills, nhouiid-
injj; with hords of thousands of cattli* : f;uanncoi'«, wild hoi;s, exceedingly fierce,
h<it exeellent meat ; wild fowls, loe, in every |)nrt : its fruits, ^navas, cocoa-
nuts in eonsidt-rahle numbers, limes, oranges, and " a kind of fruit peculiar to
these islands, called by the Indians rhymaii, hut hy us bread-fruit," swell into
n long list of luxuries to the declining; mariners. The fish that were taken
proved obnoxious; Walter supposes from the men eating too nmch, but Hyron
afterwards proved that it really was of ilelelerious (luality. The island liad no
ri\ nil ts or running water, but springs were everyw here met with, " and in the
nudst of the island there are two or three considerable pieces of excellent
water " The accounts of Anson's stay, ami what they saw iu Tiuian, led to
very great i'X])eetation in the succeeding visitors.

Wlien llyron came here, twenty-two years after Anson, he found Tinian a
very different place to what it had becTi described. Instead of n j)aradi«e, it
was, in almost all respect**, the reverse. Tlie climate was insutferably hot, the
water scarce and bad. and the plngiie of fleas intolerable. Walter, it is true,
mentions the last drawback ; but Myron says they were covered with them
from head to foot, nor could tlu'v open their mouths without getting them
tilled. AiUlei! to this, it was found more unhealthy than almost any other place
that they ha isitni. The two accounts of IT I-', and llyron's iu 17»')3, could
scarcely be more opposite. Wallis, who came here in ITf)?, draws a picttire
scarei'ly tnore flattering than ti • latter. Capt. (Jilbert, who passeil it in I7HS,
says that ('a])t. Walhs's account seemed to be nearest to its condition at that
time ; so that we may suppose that Lonl Hyrcn's picture is somew hat over-
drawn, as that of Walter's undoubtedly is. Lieut. Mortimer, who came here
in 17H1I, in the Merruri/, got all they re<juirc<l, but the cattle were very wild
id shy. The well near the anchorage, so muf>h praised hy Richard Walter,
and so dis|)raised by l$yron as being brackish and full of worms, was found to
be good and sweet; but this may have been the effect of season. Lieutenant
Mortimer was here in December, Commodore Hyron in .\ugust ; Caj)t. tJilbert
found "it dry in .\ugust, 17HS.

On one point all agree, that is, the badness of the roadstead; we therefore
quote Uichard Waller's words: — " Itut thv most imi)ortanl and formiilable ex-
ception to the |)la(e remains still to be told ; this is, the inconvenience of the
the road, and the little security there is, in some seasons, for a ship to anchor.
The only propiT anchorage place for ships of burthen is at the S. W. end of the
island: the I'eak of ."saypan, t^een over the uorthirn part of Saypan, ami bear-
ing N.N.K. i Iv, is a direction for rtadily finding it; the anchoring jjlac^ is
then S miles ilislant. Here tlie CV>i/Mrf on anchored in 22 fathoms, about IJ
mile off the shore, opj)osite to a sandy bay. The bottom of this road is fidl of
sharp jioii.te I coral mrks. which, during four njonths of the year, that is, from
the middle of June to the middle of October, render it very unsafe anchorage.

Noil. tlio licauty «>f
« nii«I hills, nhoiinil-

rxccciiingly fierce,
ilH, f^unviiM, cocoa-
iif fruit peculiar to
il-fniit," swell into
h that were taken
3 much, but Hyroti

The island hud no

with, '• and in the
lieeeH of excellent

in 'i'iuian, led ti>

10 found Tinian a
I of n ])aradi80, it
sutferahly hot, the
Walter, it is tn>c,
overcd with thcni
lout Rettinji; them
)st any othir place
Ill's in 17»>3, could
, drawf* a picture
I passed it in 17.SH.

condition at that
8 Honiewlint over-
r, who came liere
c were very wild

Kicliard Walter,
rins, was found to
ison. Lieutenant
ist ; dipt. Gilbert

nd ; wc therefore
nd formidable e\.
)nvenienco of the
ft ship to anchor.
Q S.W. end of the
viypan, and bear-
ichorinj; plac" is
ithoms, about 1 J
^his road is full of
year, that is, from
iinsufc nncliorage.

TIM.W.

lO/il

This is the season of the western monsoons ; whin near llu- full and ehanne of
the moon, but more particularly at tlie change, the wind is iiNually variable all
round the ccmipass, and seldom fails to blow with such fury that the Htoutest
cables arc not to be confided in. What adds to the danj^er at these times is
the excessive rapidity of the tide of flood, which sets to the .S.lv, between this
island and tluit of A^^uijan. This tide runs at first with a vast head and over-
fall of water, occasioning such a hollow and overgrown sea as is scarcely to be
conceived, so that we were under the dreadful apprehension of being poojied
by it, though we were in a <',u-gun ship. In the remaining eight months of
the year, that is, from the middle of October to the middle of June, there is
a constant season of scltleil weather ; when, if the cables are but well aniii'd,
there is scarcely .iny danger of tlieir being ever rubbed. 1 shall oidy a<ld that
the anchoring bank is very shelving, and stretches along the .S.\N'. end of the
island, and is entirely free from shoals, except a reef of rocks, which is visible,
and lies about half a mile from the sliore, affording a narrow passage into a
small bay. which is the only place where boats can possibly laud." — i^Anson'a
A'oyage, book iii., chap. 2.)

We have been more discursive nit Tinian than its merits perhaps deserve,
but as it is a point familiar in the liistory of navigation, it lias more interest
than it would otherwise claim. The position of the village of iSuii/iaiun,
abreast of Anson Koad, is lot. 14" Si) '22' N., long. 145'' 3(i' '20' K.

Capt. Sanchez y Zayas says that Tinian is very low, and has no hills of any
kind. Itut pumice-stone, black sand and scorin>, whieli are found everywhere
on it, give certain indications of its vokanic origin. All the wi»<tern side, ex-
cept Sunharon, is perpendicular, and may be passed close-to, especially at J'ouit
Ciutijuan, the S.W. end of which he nearly touched in the yariuez, but .still
it would be better to yivo it a berth of half u mile, as the shores aie not per-
fectly known.

In the N.W. part tlierc is a reef wliieh runs off u short distance, and off the
eastern side, wliieh is even more perpeiiilicular, and more weather-beaten th.m
the western coast. It is said that a reef extends eastward from loint Lalo, the
South extremity.

The village of Sunharon consisted, at tlie time of the vi-it of the Xanaez,
of fifteen huts, inhabited by 16 peopli>, who were sent hue from Agana, and
changed every two years, for the purpose of slaugiitering the cattle and ilr\ in"
the flesh, making what is called Uijea or tasajo (jerked beef), which is sold for
the benefit of the Lepers' hospital, and forms one of the small sources of revenue
jio-isessed by the islands. At a short distanee from the viiioge, on the Kast
coast, is the hospital for ineiirable lepers, of which, there were only three in
Idtio, creatures condemned without mercy by ihe Spaniards, but thcv are ca.id
for by the Indians. The antiquities which are found ou Timan have been be-
fore alluded to.

Sunharon is the only point where a vessel can anchor or a boat can lnuJ.

1
i

i
l!

1
1

■n

•(

•I

10S2 MAUIANA Oil LADRONE ISLANDS.

The Sarvan anchored here for five hours in the best epot she could find, and
with every cauUon, but the broke her anchor. Thii will indicate the worth
of the anchomgv.

8AIPAH or Seypan Island, which is distinguished by a lofty peak, is so
clow to Tininn that small boato pass from one to the other over the shoal wnttr.
This island is fertile. wiKxlcd. and about 14 miles long. N.N.E. and S.S.W.*
The volcanic cone is of a p«"rfect form, but ita elevation has been much ex-
nggeroted. Capt. Sanchez y Zayiw believes that it is not more than 1.000 to
1.200 ft., but it was not mooHured. It has been given at double this. At about
2 or 3 miles North of Uuh |K'ak tboi-c is another extinct crater, moderately ele-
vated. The southern part of the island is flatter, forming an cxteUMive grnr.ing
ground. The beocli i.s bordere<l by trees, among which the cocoa-nut palm is
conHpicuouB.

Formerly ihe island must have Wen populous, judging from the numerous
tombs which are met with, and there are btill some cavcH filled with skulls,
which were the objecU of veneration before the arrival of the SpanianlH, b;,
whom it was entirely depopulated. In IHIO, the Americans founded a tiading
IKwt for the whalers, but they were driven away in 1815. About 1842. some
natives of tiie Carolines, whose island had been submerged, obtained ptTmission
to settle here, and they founded the village of (iarapan on the East coast, which
in 1876 had about 700 inhabitants. These people have cleared the greater
part of the island, ond have it well under cultivation ; the men are also good
Bailors and pilots. There ore also some convicts and a Sjmnish guard of about
50 men.

The direction of the western coast of Saipan, beyond the South point, is first
N.W., then it turns to the North. It is skirted by coral reefs, extending from
1 to 1^ mile from the shore, and has an arm stretching to the S.W., near tho
end of which is ^fana</a^a Itland, about H miles N.N.W. from tho N.W.
point of Saypan.

Oftrapan, in lat. 15' 12 11" N.. long. 145° 40' 30" E., may be recognised
from sea at some miles distance by a large white rock on the shore, resem-
bling a white patch on the dark green of the vegetJition. ^Vhen this bears
between North and Host you may steer for it, but it must on no account hu
brought to the South of VmbI, or between East and South. Mai'ugasa Island
will be left to port, guarding against the reef off it, and you may anchor witli
the flagstaff at the village to the North of East, in 10 to 15 fothoms. Care
must be taken not to bring the flagstaff to bear East, because this leads on to

• Capt. Sunohpj! y ZayM found that the charts of Kaypan wi<ro vicy defHrtivo, and that
mnny of the nHinon wurc niiaplscud. A long reef was shown as running out from the North
part of the iHlHnd, and tcrminatinf( about H milus frum itti southern point, and un thia ruof
JR plac<>d Manngaaa and two othur nmall inlsta. Nuthin^of thu kind pxiHta. The chart he
has improved is not quite correct, but in Uitter th;iii timt provioubly givun.

TANArAO-MAOiriENNE HAY.

1053

r be recognised

the Tortugn Hank, whii-h ih extremely dangerntin, and nearly nwnnh, the nea
but rarely breaking on it. To the North of this bank in n serieH of other HhoaU,
separated by small channels, which unites with those of Managnsa Inland.

'I'here is anohorngc aim) a)M)ut a mile outside the reefs in 19 fathoms, to 7 or
R fathomiH cUme to them, coral bottom, bringing the most conspicuous of the
houses about P^N.Fl, and Managasa Island to North or N. by K. The bottom
is generally rocky and coral, but with some sandy spot«. The Narvan an-
chored in M fathom*, rock and sand, with the West point of Managosn N. by E. ;
the Fast \w\\\\ N. 14^ K. ; Saypan N.W. point N. 'Ab K. ; the largest house in
Oarapan N. CH' B. ; the N.K. point of Tiiiiao 8. 14^ W. ; and the N.W. point
8. 'ir W.

Duriug the period of the N.K. trades this anchorage is safe, but during the
season when the S.W. monsoon may reach the Marianas, a vesMel would be in
great danger here, should she be overtaken with even motlcrately bad weather.

There is a boat channel across the reefs to the village ; it is wide enough,
and is lieaconed by the natives with trunks of trees. This channel can be u8«-d
by day by attending to these marks, but not by night without a competent
guide, as the channel is very crooked.

Tanapag is a spacious harbour between the N.W. shore of Saypan and
MunagHsa Island. The entrance is difficult, especially for a sailing vessel, with
N.K. winds, the narrow channel being bestrewed with rocky heads, but when
within there is a well-sheltered and safe anchorage. The Spanish corvette did
not remain long enough to make a plan of it, but from what was learned re-
specting it, it was concluded that this harbour, and that of San Luis d'Apra,
were the only ones in the Marianas, where a vessel of any size could heave down
and careen. A whaler of considerable draught had done so in Tanapag.

Magioienne Bay, so named by Capt. N. Vansittart, K.N., C.B., in command
of the steam-frigate of that name, in July, 1858, ib on the S.W. side of Say]>an ;
lat. 15" 8 30', long. 145° 44'. Capt. Sanchez y Znyas says that it ia not better
than any other part of the coast where there are regular soundings. It is pro-
bably safe with S.W. winds (August and September), but it would be better to
go to Tanapag. During the rest of the year it would be impossible to remain
here on account of the heavy sea. The MagicientHf from Hawaii to Ilong
Kong, being short of fuel, came here to cut wood.

Mr. Harvey, the master of the steam-frigate, says : —

" lliis bay cannot be recommended to a sailing vessel, as the water ia deep,
and the anchorage so close to a coral reef bordering its shore, th- 'vith a
southerly wind there would be no room to weigh. The depth is J" n;homs,
over coral with sandy patches, at only a third of a mile from the bluff at the
head of the bay, decreasing rupidly to 3 fathoms close alongside the coral reef,
which nearly dries at low water. The Magicienne anchored in 18 fathoms,
with the S.W. point of the bay bearing S. \ E., about 2J miles; the S.E.
point, which is a bluff, E.8.E,, 1| mile; and a wooded bluff at the head of tho

' I

■ r

I'll

' l;

'':

1U51

MARIANA UK LAIHIONK I.SLANF»S.

Imy, N N.W. \ NV., nearly a third of a iniliv Wlu-n tlic vonscl !<\viin}; l<> llio
ghorc tlu-ro wan ;• fiilln)m!», coral patplu-n, un<l«?r litr »Uiii, and she wan (li»laiit
only a cahle'M lon^lh from the r»>rf; nl n cnhli-'it ltnj?th to tht-Hoiitliward of lu-r
anchor tluTC wan no hottotn at 70 fallioius. Tho I av \» well protected, Uiiij^
o|K;n only fronj M.S.K. U> S)iith.

" Supplift. — Thiii' ii* a plentiful >'ii]<itly of momI i;row;M;; on the HhorcH of
Magicimnc Hay, hciii|{ for the nio^t pirt tlu- tiiickiuNK nf a tnan'tt body, white
when cut, and in iiubatnucc llonIethin^ betwtn-n a bad aNli and n poplar. The
best place for lan(''ng is on the Handy beach t > the eautward of the wooded
blud at the head of the bay. Tlu- rr»'w nf the Mayuimuf cut down and
brought on boanl 17'i fathuniH in *\x dayn, the wiHxi (rt owing ci<Me to tiie
lH:'.ch, inil easily carried to the '•oata, which could lie atloat close tu the coral
reef. The wood bcMiig free of reninouii sulwlanceu, it did not j;ive out so much
hrnt n» might have been ex]K>ctear» to be no water on the
island exc.-pt whi>t is caught during the rai.is, and the rainy si'ason in August,
Sej»tember, and Octolnr. Cocoa-nuts, bread-fruit, and limes arc plentiful.
There are aUc many wild pigs and bullocks; the latter belong to the SpaniNh
government. I'igs, poultry, and fruit, can be obtained at the village.

** The few days the Mai/icienne remained in this Ijay the wind wm light
from the S.V.. during the day, and at night a light air from the land ln.twi'eu
N.E. and N.W.

" It is high water, on full and change, ia Magicienne Hay, at C" -Hj";
the tide rises about 2J feet."

Wind^. — In January, February, and March, winds from N.Pi. tr North i)re-
vail, with violent rain sijualls fchuradusj, veering in Ajjril Ut Kast and K.S.r,.,
with moderate weather when the wintl hauls t*) the South of l-last. In .Mav,
June, and July, the prevailing winds are from South and S \V., with good
weather unil les-'i rain, nM.ough it is still abundant. Krom August to Novem-
ber it blows mostly frcm the West, with heavy rain interrupted by violent
storms, the last two months being the hurricane seabuu. In December the
wind veer« thronj:!! N.W. to North and N.K.

FAKALLON I*E MEDINILLA, or Uml hUnul, about W miles N.N.K. of
iSiijpan. i.>> only 2 niile> long, N.K. and S.W., its breadth being much less. It
is a calcare.ua rock, about 50 ft. high, flat, with jH-rpendieular sides. It is
barren, and hns reddisli patches, «Fid on the South and West sides are some
very deep caverns or grottos. M. I)u])eiTey says that the South point is ter-
minated by a small \n\\, perhapg joined to the island by a low isthmus. At its
South part is a pieieed n>ck, through which a boat might pass. Freyeinet
called it Pointe da Grottet, and the island itself after the respectable governor
of (J'.iam.

Cajit. S;ineh( / y i^ayas, who cxiiniimd thii idanJ carefully, could InicL' no

ill

I ^

St .

ANATAXAN SAnUJUAN-FAUAM.ON DF. TOHRKS.

tliwarilot' lar
jlcclcd, being

till" HhoroB of
H body, wliitc
po)ilnr. The

if till" WlH)(b'tl

cut iKiwn mill

5 cliMtc ti) tho

He tu the coriil

e out so ntuch

e(j»>ul to 1 ton

(bin, but tho

watiT on the

Rou in AunuHt,

arc jdciitirul.

to the Si)unii»h

illiipo.

*iii(l was lijjht
I luml bi'twifU

t G- 4i-;

1. t( NDith pro-
iiMt and K.S.K.,
Kant, lu May,
\V., with gDOil
;»»»t to Novem-
ilfd by vioUiit
iKcLiiibcr the

milrs N.N.K. of
iiuu'h U'M. It
ir sides. It is
!,ide» ure soino
uh point i.s tiT-
slhniun. At ilH
mss. Kreyfinct
ctiiblc governor

could tr:n.x- no

ronombliinre between its form lUid the French plan.* Kither the fij;ure of the
island hiw ehai);;ed eoniiderubly. or else the |)htn is ilrawn from imagination ;
tlio b)W neck rind hummock eouUl not bo rccogniseil ; all appeared of the same
elevation.

Tho (iovcmor of the Nfrtrinnas stated that there existed ve^tij;os of a rrntor
on itH summit. It is undoubtedly of voleanic origin, and is (juite bnre of vege-
tation, the seo washing completely ov?r it in heavy weather. Itii centre u in
lat. l.'i" A9 20' N., long. Ufi" 0' K. •

ANATAXAN or Anatajan Island. 27 miles N.W, of the last, is about H
miles long, F.ast and West, and over 1^ mile wide. It has two very high and
steep voleanic peaks lying on the same parallel. To the 8.\V. only there is a
small point slightly ])rojeeting.

It was seen by the \aniiez 10 miles off, although the we.ither was not very
clear. It is very stecp-to all around. In the southem part only is a sort of
creek, in which, howi'ver, the water is so deep that a vessel couhl not anchor,
'i'hree peaks are seen from this part, one of which, it is said, is a volcano.
Perhaps a closer examination might discover a boat or other landing, because
the island was inhabited at the lime of the Spanish discovery. It i§ covered
with trees and bushes, among which the cocoa-nut is conspicuous. Lut. of the
centre, Iti' '20 N., long 1 »'> 40' F,.

8ABI0UAN ISLAND, 1« miles to tho N.N.E. of l.e preceding, aj-pcars to
be merely a high hill, of the fornj of an upright cone, with a nearly circular
base, H mile in diameter. It« summit is rounded, and seems to be of volcanic
origin. It was formerly inhabited, but is now completely deserted. P'rcycinet
says that it is almost witlusut vegetation. Sanchez y Zayas says that it is
covered with trees; lat. If) 41 \., long. 1 l'>" 47 E.

FARALLON DE TORRES or Zealandia Rockt.— The first of these names
is given from a former (iovernor of the Marianas, who gave a note of their
po>ition to all comntanders who arrived at (iuam. The second is that of the
vessel commanded by I'ajit. .1. FosliT, who drew attention to their existence in
1 f<.'>9. Their jircvious omission from the charta led to a scries of very remark-
able errors, as stated in the note below. f

• Tiip citptiin of th« .ViiriiK': ailils ih.il till the nor'hom islands of tho iirdupcl.iffj) w, ro
Tcry bniily npn wniiil; mid, hs will bo mpiitioned presonlly, tlio ch irt w.is mimifottly
VI ly hiirrinlly dniwn up.

t Thow) locks win< shown ns two points to tho S.W. of Onj^nn (})ut without nimo) on
Kspinusii's chart nf 1812. Thty w. m pu-s<<l imnoticed in tho IniHi, l>y Pn)vcin>t, in
Isl'J, and that ccimmrtndur, \>vu\n posx.dsr.i of a curroct lint of the island* in their pro|H,T
order, applied the name I'ludras do Turn h to tho iHland of (Jiijfiian to tho North of it,
then traniiwsini? all tho correct mums ii|) t) A^'r;K:ln, which ho ljiIUhI Asuncion, p'acd
];h/,m at 3 loigui'H tu tho Nnrtii uf th« iel md pro|)«,Tly ho c lUnd, but which ho ciill> d Ala-
nmf,'iian. 'ITiin mipposod i.'.ltnd, whiih th.y thou^jtit ihvy saw iinpirf^ctly through the hazo
/km M') cxislrnei, and thus Ihis imaginary island, couplod with tho oinission of thu Pii-draa

]^-

111

I /

.'Fl
it'

:|i

'I:

lose.

MARIANA OR I,ADR(^NK ISLANDS.

The name Farallon in perhaps scarcely applicable to there. They nro not
pinnacled rocks above water, and therefore Piedras de Torrti$, the Torrti Rorkt,
best describes them. It may be that the heavy sea constantly beating on them
has reduced the height of these evidently volcanic peaks, since their first an-
nouncement. They were not seen by the Narran., but they were described by
the shipwr^-ckod |)foj)le ♦hey had on board, and especially by Salas, « pilot,
AS consiHting of Ihret rocks awash, each about as largo as a boat, occu-
pying n sjmce about a cable's length, more or less, in extent There is no ap-
jH'urance of soundings near them, and in fine weather the sea only breaks at
long invervols. Their |H)sition, as stated, accords with that given by Captain
Foster.

The Zeaiandia, under the command of the above officer, from New Zealand
to Shanghai, waa possiing between Guguan and Sariguan on December 31, 1858,
supposing the channel to b« quite clear and safe, ns shown by the charts. He
says: — "At 4 p.m. Bariguan Island bearing S.8.W., distant 12 miles; wind
light from the eastward ; ship steering W.N.W. about 4 knots ; breakers were
reported right ahead ; saw two large patches about three-quarters of a mile
from the ship ; altered course to ]>aHs about half a mile northward of them,
keeping a good look-out from the top-sail yard. At 4.20 p.m Sariguan Island
bore S. by W. ^ W., distant alxjut 11 or 12 miles, and the breakers in one
with the island, distant from the xhip about half a mile. The two patches bore
from eac'u other N. by K and S. by W., about a quarter of a mile apart, with
dark water l)etween and all around them ; the sea broke at times heavily."

The weather was thrt'utenin^, and the day closing, so that Capt. Foster did
not think it prudent to make a closer examination of them, but his careful ob-
servations place them in about lat. 16" 51' N., long. 145-^ 50' K.

OXJOUAN. a small island about 36 miles northward of Sariguan, is 2J miles
long, N.N.K. und S.S.W. Its breadth docs not much exceed a mile, and it is of
mwlerate height, much resembling the Farallon de Medinilla. Its North point

df Tnrw«, well known to tho luitiTOi to eiUt to the South of Ougunn, hvi lod to the con-
fusion ttb<.ivB alluilid to. This error was common to all chnrt* aftiT tho puhlicntion of
Duporrey's chart of lHi<> until 1866, wh«n dipt. Sonchoz y Znyno' rhsrt wsh piifili-.htfl \iy
tin- Spniii.sh (roTomnittrit from the ob«)rvHtit>n» ii;«dc in the A'(;rni*z, in l'<tj| otid 1865.

Ciiptain t>anrhci'. y ZiivM devot** wrcml |>nK('* to the diNouMion ofthi* im}x)rtant error,
anil to his ]>«MM|s't> lftwe«!ii thi-i>i- iisl.'Uidi. ~ 'See ,4nu. lljiii., No. •Hi'i, pp. '240 250.)

He took from Agri^-an luid raffun (ifti^iii j^nHina wh't wore mikily l.m on Ihn rn'f in
qtii-*tion in AuKuit, 1863, and the launi-h wun afttTWird* wrwkud on I'n^.kn. The rt-clili-
cation thus niHdo by t'...- .Sp.mish oommitnder wmh c !ii|ili't4', Imt iva the origin of thii niittak'
is ito raunif'-bt it do hi re to wiy that Ou<iiui>i «:ui erroneously call d Faniilon do Tom-s; AlttmA,ian
\»,ii« aiUo'i Uuj^uan; I'lii/nn wax chIUmI A«ri>{an, sn im*,'in«ry i«l*nd lH.ir\K suhMtitulod for
I'HjfMn. Bfi«idt» thin anothir imiidfinary ^;roup, the Manyj lalot.H, wlto suppoeed to bavo
\tatUi seen iu the I'luntt. Imt do uot exi«l.

•f-^ ■^-*'

ALAMAGAN— PAOAN.

1057

They are not
i TorrM Rocks,
Miting on thetn
their first an-
e described by
Sttlas, » pilot,
K boat, oocu-
rhere is no ap-
only breaks at
'en by Captain

n New Zealand
ember 31, 1858,
,he charta. He
12 miles; wind
; breakers wore
irters of a mile
thward of them,
Sariguan Island
breakers in one
;wo patches boro
mile apart, with
ues heavily."
Capt. Foster did
t his careful ob-

hw! Uxl to the oon-
the ptiblicHiion "f
rt wuH piiMi-ho'l liy
» 1S04 ond 1865.
his iinjKiilHnt error,
). ■240 'i.V).)
li,«i on lh<> r<"f ill
'iijf.iii. Till) rtttill-
irits'lii i)f thi! in'iitiil*''
luini? iloKcriptiiiii-' i>f
• jjrofnT n»mas. It
Tovrcs ; AUmitiinn
lK-it\if !4u\)«lituUHl for
ru »ujip'je«d to hiivo

is the lowest; it is covered with vegetation, is jierpendicular, nn^ unapproach-
Klh' on ail side*. Freycinet gives it« position, lat. 17° 16 50" N., long.
145" 50' 15" E.

ALAMAGAN is almost exactly North of Ouguan, at 16) miles distant from
it. It is 2^ miles long, North and South, \^ mile wide, and is one of the highest
in the archipelago. Dn it arc two peaks, as seen from the West, the northern
one being estimated to be 2,31(5 ft. high; to the South and Fast the 8lo|)« of
the hills is extremely ra])id, and the rock, which descends to the sea, is com-
posed of bare lava. At its South end there are, however, some white and red
spots, and to the West a point covered with trees. The North side is not so
steep as the South. The high<-Rt point on the North side is o vast crater, from
whence Freycinet saw smoke issue, as was also the case with another to the
N.W , at two-thirds up the mountain. Lat. 17" 34 N., long. 145-' 51' K.

PAOAN, or Piii/on, about 2') miles North of Alamagan, was imperfectly seen
by Freycinet. Capt. Sanchez y Xayas says that it is about 8 miles long, N.K.
and S.W., and 2^ miles broad. At a distance it makes as two or three islands,
because its two ends arc mountainous, and are connected by a deep valley.
There are three active volcanws on it ; one of which is to the N.K., the others
to the S.W., the highest peaks being from MOO to 1,000 ft. in height. The first
is a conical mountain, from which there issued dense columns of smoke when
the Narvaez passed, on January 5th, 1H65. The two others to the S.W^. are
open craters on the large hill, in which the island terminates at this end. One
of them is enormous, and flames issued from the other. The valley between
the hills is covered with black sand and innumerable bushes. The tropical
vegetation reaches nearly to the summit of the mountains, except the N.K.
cone, which ijj quite bare.

Tiiore is very little water on the island, hut pigs and game may be got in
abundance. The Narvaet anchored otf the N.W, side, about the middle; the
Hpot may be known by a large rock, which at 6 or 7 miles off seems to be like
an islet. At 3 or 4 cables otf this is bad anchorage in 14 fathoms, bottom of
coral rocks. Landing is very difficult here, but about a mile to the N.K. of
this rock there is a low sandy Iwach. which has probably better anchorage and
easier landing. This low beach is a very narrow tongtie of sand, which sepa-
rates the sea from a large and very deep lag(x)n. The Governor of the Mariana.s,
who was on board the Narvaez, thought that by cutting through this U)ngue
an excellent harbour would be formed, but such a harbv .:r would be useless.*
The volcano at the N.K. end is in lat 18' 7 N., long 145 52 K.

• There is a lnlo of tr»,uuri> being buriwi on Ptisan, in sbout 1820 or 1822. The captain

of an EiikHsIi mhooncr csmo to Agana in order to »«ik for the tri-awuro ho had hotjod lioro

whoii captnin of nn Knglish hri^j, whirb had com.; from kodjo port in Peru or Chili at tho

time o£ Oi.' war of in>lt>t)endon<:e. The iuhabitAiiU ha 1 placed ihcir valuablos on Injiird the

North Pavifiv.

u r

M!^

j-V...^_

M>il W %<Mi t '>**IM»<l« l WM W > M

I i

■•A

1058

MARIANA OR LADRONK ISLANDS.

AQRIGAW or Gri^an Iiland, 41 miles N. by W. i W. from Pagran, i« about
6 miles long. N.W. and S.E., and 2| milc« wide, having on it two high i>eaks,
apparentiy a former volcano. Wilkes, by an imjierfect observation, made it
to be 2,300 ft. high. To the S.W. of the island there is, from what M. Frey-
cinct was a«sur«d, a small plain, in front of which there is bad anchorage, on
account of the violence of the currents. Some Americans and Sandwich
islanders established themselves on the S.W. side of this island, but were
forcibly removed by ihe Governor of Guam, as before stated. Capt. Sanchez y
Zay&s thinks that the abore elevation given by Wilkes is very much in cxcds,
OH he considered it not more than two-thirds of that height.

Agrigaii, seen from a great distance from the South, assumes the form of a
perfect traptaium with two small eminences at the upper angles. It is safe all
round, and it is very sttH'p, The anchorage may be easily known, because it is
in front of the only .s.ii)dy l)each on the island. Bottom will not bo found till
within ■i cttbifs of the iR'nch, and then the depth is regular, from 15 to 17
f;i«hym^>, black «»nd. The only anchorage is that taken by the IS'arraet, in 1 1
fiithomn, with the S.W. jxjint of .Vgrigau Ijearing .N'.N.W., and the South point
S. fi-i^ E., about a mile from the laiuling-place, and 3 or 4 cables otf shore. To
the southward was a large light- coloured patch like shoal water, but there was
not less than »> fiithom?! waior on it. The landing is very bad. The steep beach
is of very coarsf Mack sand, v<'ry light, and evidently of volcanic origin.

(hi .\grsj.n!in are abunduKce of cocoa-nuts, bananas, and tropical roots, as well
as t larg'-' qxiantity of pig>i, go.tts, and poultry. A curing-csUiblishment was
formed here, .similar to that on Tininn, but for want of means of communication
it W!i8 nbandoiivd, liie -Vuriiiifi taking otTthe inhahitttnts. The island i.s evi-
di'nlly volcanic, hut it is stated then? are no lava streams, nor appearance of a
cratt-r, U8 formtrly .stated, hut (apt. fvnorr, of the Hsrtha, wnys that "luxuriant
vegetation covered the two volcano* up to their smoking craU'rs." The soil is
very fertile, and the island is covere<l from shore to summit with vegetation.
The S.K. puMit H in lat, IX 40 20 N.. long. 145" 41' 45 K.*

1." ;

brig, whirh wiM crt" in the iiif!ht, hy th*" siJ of two H«Uof«, whom h« *<t.()r\v(irdi »»M*Mnato.!l.
'I'hf \*\yin he h.'iil, aiijvtn.iitly ftxenl th<. place in i'lmxti. Hut Iba wholw story in so vaguo
that it may \n: fuirly plju:«ci Among tW many tiriiiLir n>rnii>ni.f,i.

• M'tnifn or Manjiu IttumU have U)tn auothi^r diJHoulty in the hyiirov^aphy of Ui«
Mariana«. Thi y wm: iii»t <*t»t(Hi liy Ijk i'l-rouAC to b««r 'iM* W. from Anunciun, but
whcth«r to N N.W. or K ,S.W. w.>»» nut cioar In th< (i<<;i.iint ut K«vyoin»'t « v</yiifj* thov
wer«' »(iiiJ to hnve tn^en •cen from the tVantf'i inast-htuO, betuina; to the .S.S.W. of Adiin-
cjun, Hnd Hft w) platfd on Dup»;n>'y'» ch*r{. Hut M Ij» Pt'iouw- my% Oint hi> n«.\'\.:t «aw
\\\v I'rr.^aui, th^y were j.1.«.«h1 t<> tti« N.N.W. of Asuncion on t.h.t Fr«>i>ch and .M|«»nisii
chart* of 1«62, »o that th»'y Jinre haU i'mw po,«ition«i on the chart*, and, in .addition to thi*,
Uit? Admiralty t;hart gnro the nauii- to tho Urroc**'.

Tliii my»t<ry was aU.v ikared up b) tlift Aun'.wji. Her comtnAndir ,*teomi«l over thiir
sites, and found no cvidenc* of their fxistpnre. Tht ouclution h« ji»»tty amv^ «( wa«,

ASUNCION ISLAND— FAUALLON DE PAJAROS.

lOj'J

om Pagan, i« about
it tt^o high i)eaka,
«crvation, made it
■ora what M. Frey-
bad anchorage, on
in* and Sandwich
8 island, but were
1. Cnpt. Sanchei y
cry much in cxcc<<b,

imca the form of a
Dgles. It is safe all
;nown, because it is
ill not be found till
lar, from 15 to 17
the Nartaet, in 1 1
Mid the South point
cables offshore. To
rater, but there was
id. The steep beach
)lcanic origin,
ropical nx)t«, as well
r-e8tiil)li)»hment was
IS uf communication
The island is evi-
nor appearance of a
ays that "iuxurianl
aUTs." The soil is
kit with vogetation.

ivhiilv itury U to vagua

e hyi<rv\v^,iphy of tli«
\'. fmni Aaunciun, but
ri-yoiiMjt » voyngii thuy
o the SSW. of Aiiun-
sttys thdt ho nevwr «aw
i\ Fjvnch and Sj«iii-!i
nd, in .tdiiition to thi>,

itiir «teftin(<d or«r thi'ir
t juiitt> aihv^ at w.i«.

ASUNCIOH or Assninption Island, 64 miles N. by W. from Agrigan, is a
perfect volcanic cone alwut a mile in diameter, and with a large crater on the
summit, which rises to a height of 2,848 ft. Its eastern side is of lava, and the
sea washes up it to a considerable height, at least 260 ft., or double the height
uf the ninsts, a certain indication of the great depth of the sea at its base.
Thert' is scarcely any vegetation on the eastern side. At the North end of the
island is a rock through which the sea has worn a passage. About a cable to
the North of this two rocky heads show themselves.

On the West side the slope of the mountain is less rapid, and fornu a per-
fect cone; but, like the other, the coast is perpendicular. Outside the southern
and lowest part of the island there are two or three rocks, but not more than
half a cable's length off. All this side is covered with a vigorous tropical vege-
tation. It is not known whether any one has landed on it since La Perouso
did on Decci;.".>jr 1 Ith, 1786, when he carefully observed its position on shore.
I.ia Porouse anchored here in .'iO fathoms, but the Nurvaez ceuld find no bottom
at this depth anywhere round the island.

ABuncion is very lofty, nnd is conso<iuentIy from its small base a remarkable
object. La Perouse estimated it at 1,200 ft.; Dupcrrey at 1.700; but ('apt.
Sanche?. y Zayas says these figures are evidently too small, and by two angular
measurements he obtained a mean height of 802.5 metres, or 2,632 ft. The
crater is in lat. 1'.)" 45' N.. long. 145 2'J K.

URRACA8 ISLANDS, 22 miles N.W. by N. J N. from Assumption, are
three in number, the large-st to the West, the smallest to the N.K. They are
moderately high, v^ry irregular, and lie in a circle 2 or 3 miles in diameter,
connected by breakers which complete the circle around them. 'I'he outer part
of this circle is of a regular form, hut the inner sides are muth cut up. The
outer side is of a reddish lava, the iriner black and dcmcd. The group appears
to have been the summit or crater of an immen»' volcano, or the ruins of a
former peak, twin-brother to Asimcion. It is entmly desolate, neither tree,
brushwood, nor rivulet is to be seen. Its outer side, beyoii.i the encirclin"
rocks, ib evidently very deep, and they drop suddenly into deep water.

It is far from being dangerous ; in fact, they form an excellent point of
recognition, as they may be seen at a gj-eut distance. They lie in latitude
20" 6 35' N., long. 146" 20' K.

FAEALLOH DE PAJAROS, or Guy Kock, the northernmost of the
Mariana."*, was discovtred by Douglas, Suptemtxir 12, 1780, and is placed
under the first name in KspinoiMi's chart, it was first properly described hy
Capt. Sanchez y Zayas, iu 186£. It i» really an island, and not a rock or
fittrallon, being about 1,039 ft. high, and IJ mile in diameter It is a comcitl

y:^A

that thU extensive n«{ and islets ware identical with the Urracas, and that T^a Poroute's
account wiU perfectly bflar out Uii», as tbej aov cImiI; viaibte £rom Asuauon, and aoUiiug
•Ise i« in sight in U\at diir«ctioo.

,,yi„:>^.h'iH*m'!i$i»wnimmim

fl*

'^ I . •

1 u

■ 1

1060

MARIANA OR LADRONE ISLANDS.

mountain, crowned with a volcano in activity, for four or five columna of TWy
thick and black smoke wore seen to the S.W. of the summit at a spot which
rcflombled a crater. On the South, East, and North sides the coast is prr{>en-
dicular, and the sea boats heavily upon them. To the S.K. a large rock lies
against the coast, and near this are seTcral others, one of which is very rrmark-
ablf, resembling n shnrp-pointed steeple ; a similar rock lies on the S.W. side.
To the West the side of the mountain slopes more gradually, but there nre no
oif-lying dangers on this side. There is no landing, and only a little vegeta-
tion near the South shore. It is unknown if there is any anchorage. Accord-
ing to Commander Sanchez y Zayas, the summit is in laL ''O" 30' N., long.
145'^ 8' 40' E., but according to Capt. Knorr, of the German corvette II«rtha,
who landed on the South point in 1876, it is in lat. '20° 33', long. 144" 48f .
In 1877 it was sighted by the U.S. ship Alert, and its approximate position
calculated to be lat. 20^ 36', long. 145'^ 12'. The volcano on each occasion waa
emitting dense volumes of smoke.

It would thus appear probable that there are two islands, some 30 or 80
miles apart, in this neighbourhood, closely resembling each other. Captain
Knorr estimates the height of the island he landed on o^ 850 ft. ; its shape cir-
cular, with a circumference of about 5 milea.

n I II

m'^

;>;':i

,, .J) .

Britomart Reef.— In 1 869, Capt. Bartlett, of the British barque liritomarl,
passed close to a reef, level with the water, and from 400 to 600 ft. long, in
Int. 19-" 18' N., long. 14P 34' E. It was unsuccessfully searched for by the
U.S. ship Alert, in 1881.

LIU D8AT I8LAHD. — This island was discovered by Mr. Lindsay, of the
British schooner Amelia, during a calm, on Christmas-day, 1848. It appeared
about 60 ft. high, and 4 miles in length, very borren, and of a dark brown
colour. Of its position, lat. 1!)" 20' N., long. 141" 84' E., its discoverer speaks
confidently, having proved the rate of his chronometer only two days previously
at the islands of Grigan and Asuncion.

But Capt. Bartlett, of the liritomarl, passed over this position in I86U, when
it was not visible from the mast-head in fine clear daylight, and it was also
searched for in vain by the U.S. ship Alert, in 1M81.

FLORENCE SHOAL.— Capt. E. Wadsworth, of the Florence, report* as
follows:— "April l.Uh, 1862, lat. 18" 6' N., long. 143" 18 E., we passed overa
shoal of 2 miles in extent ; gut a cost of the lead in 10 fathoms, eurul, but was
off the bank before we could sound again. l'reviou.s to so\iuding we passed over
some places much shoalcr, probably not more thait '> or 6 fathoms ; I cuUcd it
Florence Shoal." No further report has been made.

DETACHED ISLANDS AND SHOALS.

1061

AMOn Shoal. — On tho old charts a shoal is shown at 140 miles East of
LuKon, in lat. 17° 35' N., long. 124° 50' E. It may have been seen by Capt.
Ayer, in the Earl of Clare, March, 1848, who saw bottom of large white shells
and dark-coloured rocks, the water not discoloured, but took no soundingt, in
lat. 17° 50' N., long. 124'' 40' E.»

!■]

Dagay Troilin Reef— Capt. Denier, of the French barque Dugay Trouin,
states that he saw a reef in lat 19" 5' N., long. 124° 43' £. It broke very
little, with a calm sea. — Tijdschri/l voor het Zeewezen, 1875, p. 240.

The Philippine Iilandl, which limit the North Pacific to the westward, be-
tween the parallels included in this Chapter, are described in our Directory
for the Indian Archipelago, ftc, 1878, pages 585—606 and 8<J5 — 916.

* Soveral other thoals are found on the old oharta in the neighbourhood of the Mariamis,
but thu poaitioni are ao viiguis both in latitude and longitude, that nothing certain gan be
■aid about them. The following is an enumeration of the chief of them : —

A ihoal, from Spanish charta, is marked at 6" to the eastward of Anson ShoaL

A rtef, in Ut. 16' 32 S., long. 143* 2/ E., from the Honolulu Friond.

An iilami, in lat. 17* 0' N., long. 136* 0' E., from whaler report.

A reef, in lat. 17' C N., long. 159" 14' E., ftom whaler report. Commander Skerrelt,
U.S. ahip rorttmoulh, nonrchod unsucceaafully for this reef.

Folger ItUmd, in lat 18* 21' N., long. 165° lO* E., waa pasMd orer by the flag.ship of the
Uniti'd States' Exploring Expedition.

A duuhiful thomi, in lat. 16* 30' N., long. 141° 10' £., waa uni<uccoaafulIy soarchud for by
the U.S. ship Al*rt, in 1881.

SpanuK liUmdi, in lat. 13° 5.5' N., long. 142* 10' E.

AmoH Iilandl, repeated, in bit 13* 0' N., long. 141* 35' B.

/»/<i»(i» from tho Spanish charts, in 13* 20' N., 138* 30' E. (The United Statoi' Ex.-
ploring Expedition paued near these last poaitiotu.)

Mira-por.vo4. in lat. 14* 20', long. 143° 20', niuy refer to tho 8.uita Rosa Bank, if it exists,
or it isotht^rwise unknown. GurlmHiot, a degiee tu the southward, may bu thu same, but
cannot be dut«ruuuuJ.

^11

( 1062 )

CHAPTER XIV.

ISLANDS TO THE NORTHWARD OP LAT. 20^ N.. INCLUDING
THE HAWAIIAN OR SANDWICH ISLANDS.

'•ii

THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.

Thkae islands were discovered by Captain Cook, in his last and unfortunate
voyage. Proceeding from Tahiti, he made the land of Atooi and Woahoo, to
the North and N.E., on Sunday, January 18, 1778. They were named by hira
the Sandwich Islands, in honour of the Earl of Sandwich, the then First Lord
of the Admiralty, under whose administration he had enriched geography with
so many and splendid discoveries.

Although to Cook belongs the honour of thus making them really known to
Europe, there are some proofs that they had been previously seen by the early
Spanish voyagers, the first of whom was Juan Gaetano, in 1642, who made
the first voyage from New Spain to the coast of Asia, though there is no
account that he tuiw them. On the old Spanish charts there is a group marked
in the same latitude, but much farther to the eastward than the Sandwich
Islands ; the southernmost and largest of these is called L» Meta (the table) ;
to the N.E. of this is La Detgrmciada (unfavoured) ; and to the N.W. is a
group of six, collectively called Lo$ Monjet (the monks). In the different
charts of Lord Anson, taken with the Manila galleon, and those noticed by
Bumey (vol. v.), they are placed from 10° to 32° farther East than the Sand-
wich group, and were unsuccessfully sought for by La P^rouse, Vancouver,
and others. But as the ancients determined their longitudes nearly by chance,
the conclusion is almost irresistible that this group is intended for tliose under
consideration. In this view, if the islands were seen at a distance. La Mt-su
would answer for the flat-topped Mauna Loa in Hawaii, and it is here now
•uggested that La Desgraciada would answer t« Mauna Kea ; Fleurieu, who
was the first to point out this subject, considered that La Desgraciada might
be a separate and undiscovered island. Loa Monjea would repreaent the
weatem islands of the windward group, Oahu, Maui, kc., and thus, without
mueh difficulty, all diserepaaeies would be reconciled except that of longitude.

Other evidences exist of some prior knowledge of European people. Cook

INCLUDING

and unfortunate
and Woahoo, to
re named by hiru
then First Lord
i geography with

really known to
lecn by the early
1542, who made
ugh there is no

a group marked
in the Sandwich
\feta (the Uble) ;
» the N.W. is a

In the different
thoee noticed by

than the Sand-
)U8e, Vancouver,
nearly by chance,
d for thuse under
stance. La Me.sa
1 it is here now
I ; Fleurieu, who
esgraciada might
Id represent the
ad thus, without
that of longitude,
in people. Cook

20° I

19"

:•'•: • : : '

'".,•'■■'* ' /hO^iT^f^A-^-.., ,^'

C. Kini.i jcittit'"" f

MaantUfi '
IJVXAI RAN Alt

Ptii AW'"*,"

t-.ICa""'

HAWAII oa^
SAHBWICH ISLAWBS.

160"

15,0

z^rrrrr

lui«"

lfi7

I'lUi.isiir.i) i-iv K.HL.MRiK.:..s, )-i.t:Ki' sTiu:i;r. ii^niio

SS, KLt:!-"!' S-|'IU:i; I Ii^Mms

- i

(

' 1

III"

2t>'

^11 OJi

H ISLANH

THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.

1063

A'^"

found in hii first intenriew two pieoM of iron, which could only be derived
from Kuropeani, a piece of iron hoop S inches long, and an apparent point of
a broadsword. The feather head-dreeses, in the form of European helmets,
and the grotesque heads of the same mAterial, which he procured, and are now
to be seen in the ethnological room of the British Museum, also indicate a
similar origin of ideas. Added to this, ihc adoration paid to Cook, as the
looked-for god, combined with the other traditionary uvidcncc, prove that some
former, though nearly forgotten, intercourse had taken place. He that as it
may, tu Cook undoubtedly belongs the real discovery of the Sandwich Islands
an now known.

It will be unnccesRory to enter into the details of the progrcHM of these
islands in their early days of Euro])ean intercourse.

After their discoverj- they were not visited till 1786, when Capts. Portlock
and Dixon anchored at Oahu. La I'urouse viHited Maui about the same time.
Vancouver spent several months hero in 179'i and 17l«3. He introduced the
present breed of cattle, and during his stay the island of Hawaii was ceded to
the Hritish crown. The first missionaries were landed at Kuirua, in Hawaii,
February 4, 1820, from Hoston, United States. Some from England soon fol-
lowed, and their zeal and indu.<«try soon elTccted a wondrous change in the
character of their converts ; and one most prominent circumstance arising out
of it was the visit of the King Libo-Liho and his queen, with a native suite,
to England, in 1822. They unfortunately died soon after their arrival. H.M.S.
Jilonde, under the command of Lord Byron, was commisaioned to convey their
b(Mlic8 back to their kingdom, a proceeding which made a most favourable im-
Dression in Hawaii. Matters would have gone on well but for religious in-
tolerance. I'hc Protestant missionaries, both English and American, had in-
creased ; but in 1 827 some Bomish priests were intro<luced ; they were ex-
pelled in 1830. In 1836 the Romish propaganda again introduced themselves,
but great bigotry on both sides led to most serious results. It gave occasion
to the French government to act with very great harshness, and finally to take
possession of the islands.

The most prominent circumstance in this affair is that of the Cltmentine, a
ibrigontinc under the British flag, in 183'J, which was forcibly entered, and
made to retain on board two French missionaries brought by her on her late
voyage from California. To adjust this outrage. Captain iSir Edward Belcher
endeavoured to convince the missionaries and the king (Kamehameha III.) of
the impropriety of this step. The French frigate La Vintu, 60 guns, appeared
at this critical momen\ and Captain Du Petit Thouar* acted with Sir Edward
Belcher in the matter, and the missionaries were for a time landed, and an
acknowledgment given th^t reparation should be made to the owners of the
Clementine. After this t \e government and the state of society became dis-
organised, and after much controversy the FVench took possession of the
Sunilwieh Islands, August 26, 1849.

i 3^ ,

■', ■>?

r i: j!

10ft4

THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.

Mi i ■■

This interfer«nc« wm mbftequentlj adjiuted, and the pawn of tho king
Mttled on • firm baiU. A conatitution iiin)|ilc, but utringout, and adapted to
tho rvquiromenta of tho {tcople, waa promulgated in IH64, and the integrity of
tlie kingdom haa be«n guarantovd by a tripartite treaty > tween Kngland,
France, and the United States. The goTernment ia monarohicnl, and baaed
ln^^c■ly on that of Great Hritain. Tho king governi by a cabinet and a legiti-
latiTc chamber. Kach island haa iu viceroy, and life, pro]>erty, and justice arc
aa flccure aa in any country in the world. Unfortunately jHirty pulitics and in-
trii^uca mar at timea what might otherwise b« the perfect happiness of a simple
community.

The natives and their habits have been too often dnteribed to need much
being said hen;. When Cook first Unded, their uitoniNhment won citrcmo.
Thry wcru abt)ve the middle siM, and well made; their complexion rather
darker than tboae of Tahiti, and altogether not so handsome a |>e«iplo. Most
of their former .uatoins, so much dilated on in tho curly accounts, hnvo pasM>(i
away, and are generally superseded by European habits and manners, not
IM>rnup8 altogether advantageous to them.

The CKtimate of CWk. in 1771*. that there were 400,000, is generally be-
lieved to be much too large. Probably 300,000 would be nearer the ♦ruth.
One thing is certain, that there must have been a vastly greater populatiim
then than now, as is cvidencc<i by the rich toro land now lying waste on all
tho islands ; and in the diotricts of Kau, Waimca, and Kohalu, on Hawaii, it
will be very evident that three or fuur times the number of i)eople must have
lived to have cultivated it

The following statistics will show that the decrease has been rapid. The
popuUition in 18'23 was eatj:nated at 112.050; and according to the census of
\ti'di, 130,315; and from that of lH3r>, 10H,579. The decreaxe ap|K.>ar8 to
have been in progress almost from the date of their discover)*. One cause, at
least, has added to this : the number of young men who left tho islaiKLs in
whalers and other ships, and never returned. Another cause wan the niorulity
of 1848, the "year of dcoth," when it is supposed that 10,000 were swept
from the islands by the measles, whooping-cough, and ititluenza combined.

The last census, taken in December, 1H84, gave the following as the result
of the population, by which it will be seen that the nunilx^rs are increasing,
but this is owing to the foreign element, chieHy coiitiisting of ('l)iuese ami
Portuguese immigrants, employed on the sugar plant^itioiiH, &c. At the census
of 1878 the natives numbered 44,088, tlie hulf-CH«tes 3,420, and the foreigners
10,477. In 1884 the natives numbered 40,014, and the half-castes 4,218.
Besides the islands thus enumerated there are Moluiini, Lenua, Kaula, and
l^ihoa, which ore uninhabited, barren, and very small. The urea of the islands
in according to tho estiiuate of the Hawaiian governiovut survey.

if'

TIIF, SANDWICH ISLANDS.

1068

pr of tho king

uid aduptod to

the intogrity of

wwn Kiigland,

ital, and bwed

lu'l and n IfK'"^

and jmtice arc

politic* and in-

iueM of a Bimple

to need much
nt mw cxtrcino.
>mplexion rathi-r
a j)et)plo. Moat
unU, have pa»»o<'
aid mauncrf, not

, it general »;• be-
nearer the ♦rulh.
greater population
^•ing waste on nil
ilu, on Hawaii, it
j)eople muit have

been rapid. The
ig to tlu- ccniua of
ecreatte apiK-ars to
>ry. One cauw, at

left the inlands in
« w«» the mortality
10,000 were swept
enza combined.
)wing aa the reault
XT* arc increasing,
iijg of Chini'se ami
I, 4tc. At the census
>, and the foreignertJ
c half-casU'a 4,218.

Lenua, Kaula, and
ic area of the isluuds
survey.

I'ltllKKNT I'ol'UI.ATM'* or THS KlKUDnM.

Arrn "n. (^o. m. F()rci«n«ri. Nutivos.

Hawsii .,,
M«iii ....
Onhii....
MuUkKi
IiitiiBi . , .
Kikimi . . .
Niihnii .
Kiiliulnuo,

4,210 1I.U29

760
fiOO
270.

imI

r.iK) ,

l>7^

O.J

0,401
272

Total.

6,740

.■5<i,;i4fl

11,062
0,470

2,312

4,U«4

44,232

Total.
24,001
IM70
2S,008

2,014

H,036

8(l,.)78

The present king. Kalakniia, was elected in lH7t, in succession to Lunnlilo,
the Muecesiior of Kiinuliaineha V., who died without an heir in 1^72. (iueen
Kmnia, the widow of King Knmehnmoha IV., and wht) contested the election,
died in the spring of IHH.'j. Under the heniticent rule of these monarch.^, great
progress has been made in the civiliitation of the archipelago, and in develop-
ing its resources.*

Tlie one great source of prosperity in former years was the whale-fishery.
This important branch of commerce, which has been referred to previously,
attracted such a concourse of the New Kngland and other whalers to the
North Pacific, tliat in iH.'i'.t the numbir which visited the Sandwich Islanils to
refit amounted to 54'.i s<|uare-rigge(l vesHcis. In 1H4(>, »!7 1 vessels touched
here, chiefly whalers. ( )f the moral ailvantagc to the natives of this influx of
licentious sailors, little can be said, but it brought much wealth. After that
year there was a very sudden and great decrease. The amount of sperm and
whale oil, and whaUltone, decreased to less than one-half, or one-third of what
it was in IMJH, when it was at the maxiiuum, 2:^1', Ifi I gallons sperm, :i, .').') l,.'t»2
gallons whale oil, and l,r>14,710 lbs. whalebone; reduced to 47,85".) gallons
■perm, 782,OH(> gallons whale oil. 572,900 lbs. whalebone, in IHCO ; and these
items became reduced, in 18(')2, to les.s than one-third of what they were io
1800. Since this jieriod this source of revenue has much declined. In 1881
only I'J whaling vessi'ls cii'led here.

The development of commerce and the incrca.se of the population in Califor-
nia, and the consociuent trade which has steadily progressed with San Fran-

• Amonjj; tho morn rocont works conUiininH; doscriptiomi of thi'su isl.iiul.s. wo miv men-
tion "Ndithirii Ciilifuniiu, Ori'gon. ainl Ui.i Snudwith islatub," by C. Noriihotf, ls74 ;
"The Hawniian ArthiptliKo," an iiitoroatiug suriua of Uttors, by InabolU L. UirU, I.S75 ;
" Difl Lwward-Inscln il.T Itiiwiiii.(irupi).." vnn Francis Itirtrh.ini, in MitthfiliinK>Jn aus
J. rerthcs' (loographiwhtT Anstiilt, 1S7S, pp. 203-7; " Dio Sundw oh-Insoln," by Graf U.
Anrep-Elmt, I/eipzig, 1«8.5 ; " Tho Honolulu Diiectory," an annu.i! publication; and •'Tlio
llawi*iian Alninnar and Annual."

Aorth i'acijic. Q

1 .

1:-

•^•

( 1

10f)G

THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.

t !

i ! !

^mn

1 1
t

5ir

CISCO, and also the atlvanci? of llritlsh Columbia, and the intercourse with the
free port of Victoria, are now the real •o»rco8 of pronpcriHy to the Hawsuinii
IsknJu. They niny bo ocWKiilornl as the "West Indies" of \.W. America,
from their feitiiity ami m(at n<i;i])!.i!>iJity for the j;rowth of stigur, coffee,
cotton, ^c, capable of supplyiiitj liic whole of the countries on the N.E.
Pacific with these uccossaricp, whicli arc now admillcd into the United States
free of duty.*

There arc n\imorouB f>ugnr-p1antntions on the various islands, but chiefly on
Maui, some of them being coraierScd by railway with the portM of shipment. In
1S8<, fi.'KCiH.') tons of ouj^r were expurted, and 4,!.'.58 tons of rice. Wool ia
also largely grown, the export in 1881 amounting to 407,623 lbs. There were
above 1, 000, OCX) »he«'p, including large flocks of merinou, on the inlando. The
island of Niihau was pupcli.iscd fioin the ;.;nvernnient by a i^eotch family from
(':i(iterbury. New Zealand, for a sheep farm. Cotton, which was largely grown,
failed on aeeoimt of drought and from wtirnis, and cofTce also suiFcrs from
blight. In 188J, the value of tine exports amounted to 7,977,^09 dollars, and
the import*; in 1881^ principally clnhini^, proviKicms, ironware, and lumber, to
5/)J4.2 {0 doll.'HR, the trade beiog chiefly with the United Slaten. Thv coinage
is similar to the Am'.'rican.

Excellent coal from Vancouver In^.and can be had for almut 1 1 dollars, or
44s. per ton, Australian ctvxl for the same price, uud the best WeUh stoani coal
at about 14 dollan,, or 5f>«. jH?r U)n.

Since the completion of railway communlcntion betwtcn New York and
San Franci.'«co, liues of steamers liave been establitihird iKtween the latter port
and China and Japan, and aUo to New Zealand and AusKralia, the steamem
on the latter service calling at the Sandwich Islands twice monthly. On the
completion of the Canadian Pacific Kail way. it it alao probable that other
lines of steamers will be established. nomc of which wnutd cail here. There
is also a liiu> of fine steamers ruiiuing between Sun IVaucisco oiui Honolulu
twice a month

The Windi, which arc most prevalent in the Hawaiian Archipelago, are
thoft<> froni the north-eastward. This trade wiiu!, which prevuils fi.r a gri'al
portion of the year, is inlf rnipted when the 8un la in high South latituiie, or
during the northern winter. From the geographical position of the isUnds
near to the tropic, the nortlicni edge of the ira-le wind locedvt to the *»utli-
Murd of their latitiMle in this se«s<m, and tlun the anti-trade wind from Uio

• Whon it i» reiii»,mU'i«il that the coamuTC^ and prujiictions of the volr*nu' islniid of

MHiiriiim, in the fc<ni*> lutitudn Soiilh thi«t ih>>»e \»»ttn.iy ara North, arc at lUo prosoot J.ty
aoarly thirty tiaiis (fipntfr th^n tho«o of th« Sauxtmich liUnds, whilnt the latter havo
several tim^<« ^rmtft areii and rivrtilahie liind, ss well hi« ^rAut<>r 'Jivuniily of ditnatu miil
Mxf-urcts, it will b«3 rcsdily sci-n wlut un optsninj^ w pre*«nttd for fulur* c«mini'rcu, Hii.i
huw vali:«l.l.j this tradi' vn'iy h<,ioiu« to tJroat Uril*in, especially it Vittori* bo pr«sorvo«l
tu a ittM jfort. - Ml . Ci'n>ulGnural Syttf', l.'«65.

•^ H

IS^

TTIK SAN'nWlcn ISLANDS.

1067

iTiwrflc with llio
to the Hawiuitiu
■ N.W. America,
of »ng»r, coffee,
rit>8 on the N.E.
thn UniteJ States

U, but chiefly on

In of »hij)iii<"nl. In

of rice. WiKil ia

i Iba. There were

the i»latnl8. The

eotch family from

wn« hirgely grown,

J aUo sulfers from

77, ','0'.' <ii'Har«, nmi

are, nnd lumber, to

ilatea. The coinage

hoiit 1 1 «iollnirs, or
Bt Welbh Htc'aiu coal

L'cn New York anJ

ween the latter poit
liralia, th'i »teamcf»
; monthly. On the
probable that other
(I call here. There
K'isco und Honolulu

an Arehipi'laigo, arc
prevails fur a ^reul
h South btituilc, or
isition of the iHlnnds
eeiMh'i to the «outli-
trado vt iii<l from Uiu

f the vi)lc»nii' islnr.il of
1, arc at ihi) jircsuiit d:iy
I, whil«t th« Utter havi<
■Jivomily of climatB hiiiI
ir f'jiurfl comintrco, hiuI
LI NictoiiA bo prowrvod

wc5!{war<1. nMftitig betw<'OT.\ N.W. and R.W., is frequently heavy and change-
able, beinn n stvu^gle b«*t\ve»;ji the two Hyutein.'^, anil forminK the ('(luivalenl to
what are called the " horse latitudes," in the North Athmtic. Tb.ey bring
ubvu\dnnt rain on to the opposite sides of the isiandf, which have the rain
during the Numn\er montha. 'I'he.se westerly winds set in UR\ially in January,
and continue till the middle of April, or connnienceineiit of M;i_v, when the trade
wind again sots in.

During 11. M.S. Peterers crui.se among the Sandwich Islandw in September,
October, and part of Noven»ber, 1876, the trade wind wax frequently inter-
rupted by raiiiH, calms, and nouthtriy winds, except in the channels between
the i»i Olds, where it seldom failed. Oti the Wewt and S.W. sides of Maui,
Bouth-crtHlerly winds jirevaiied; these winds were, however, occasionally inliT-
ruptcd by the tr;iile wind, >%hicij blew over the low iatamus. At nijjht, calms
prevailed near all the jislands.

Tli« Climale of the Sandwich Island-t is generally temperate and healthy, for
a subtropical region ; it would appear to resemble that of the WcHt Indies,
though more temperate in the higher lands, being not too hot to prevent whit«
men working, even in agricultural pursuits. From the constant nature of the
wind, the temperaturn and climate generally vary on ditfercnt sides of the
islands, and from their insular character and their great elevation, the clouds
are intercepted, and rain is consequently abundant in some localities, and
drought the characteristic of others. 'Ihu.s the North uide of Kauai is ii'
cooler than tht South side from this cau^e, and it rains 9 months of the year,
and from this th« country is clothed in perpetual green. On tlie West side of
Hawaii, on th« other hand, raiu seldom falls on the coast, and a rainy day
once A year is considered remarkable. The range of the thermometer on the
windward side of ihe islandt, is from .')4- to hfi" ; on the lee side it seldom falls
so luw as the firmer tempenitun?. The climate is healthy, none of the uiter-
tropical diseases Arc known, uor do fc.Ter, ague, or cholera occur.

Bishop Statey gives the following ms a brief summary of the climate. Situated
only just within the limit of the northern tropic, and in the region of the N.E.
trades, which blow the griaf.er part of the year, and convey the ocean vapour,
eoadensed into clouds, over r.h« laountnjni* ami table lands, then to fall in fer-
tilizing showers, the country eiijoys a luxuriant and delicious climate. The
average annual temj)ernture is 77' P'alir., with only a few degrees of variation
above and bel(rw. Hut th« local climates are varied, dejjcnding on aspect and
elevation. At Waimon, on a plat»an about 4,000 ft. above the sea level, in the
N<>.rth of Ilftwuii. a fire in your bed-room is necessary. On the other hand the
houses at Honolulu and many other places are built without chimnc\s. no tires
being needed at any period of the year. Generally speaking, there is moro
rain on the windward than on tl;e leeward sides of the island. Hence th« rich
Lues of liio casicru sloijes of liawuu, eovired with verdure and cultivation

<•»''■„

. j'-'yiii . w^"->j'^-f'^

(

■ t i

thu

I ! :j !

lOfiR

TIIK SANDWirn ISLANDS.

contrn?t strongly with the bare and arid look of the coast on the greater part
of the western side.

There is no trojjical wet season, in the ordinary sense of the term — that is,
at the summer ept>ch. On the contrary, the wettest jiart of tlie year is when
the sun's vertical is farthest removed from the northern tropic, viz., in De-
cember and January. Then abundant rain falls, storms of great violence,
called A'onat, sudder.ly arise, and the inter-islaud navigation has to be sus-
pended 'lSf.8).

On the West side of Hawaii the land and sea-breezes are very repular ; there
are also sstmn'j North winds, but the most severe gales are those from S.W.,
which, as stated, the natives term kona. These last from a few hours t-> two
or even three days, and arc followed by ruin ; they are seldom strong enough
to injure the houses.

The CurrenU in the imme<liate vicinity of the islands at first Right would
seem to be very uncertain ; sometimes .setting to windward, and at other times
to leeward, without any regidarity. They do not apj)ear to be governed by the
winds nor other cause; they frequently iet to windward ugaiust a fresh breeze.

Hut whatever Uiay be the irregularity of the current within the influence of
the archipelago, a circumstance related by Vancouver incontestably demon-
strates that, beyond them, they follow, at least at times, some general law.
When at Kauai, he saw a noble canoe, CI J ft. long, formed from a single pttu
tree, which wood does not grow on the islands. Its origin was more singular
than the canoe itself. It was a tree drifted on to the Kast end of Kauai in a
perfectly sound state, without a shake or a bruise. 'J'his ciretimstanoe of fir
timber being drifted on to the northern sides of the islands is by no means un-
common, and but little doubt ean be entcrtaine<i that they had come from the
West coa.st of .\merica. This wouM i)rove, as would at once be sujiposed, that
the ustial current in the othng came from N.K.

Another circumstance also bears with great weight upon the current drifts
and the direction of the winds. On a fomicr page 301) we have noticed the
singular circumstance of the wreck of a Japanese junk at the entrance of
Ciilumbia Uiver, in Oregon, in l^.i."^. .\bout the same time, a junk laden with
tl.sh, with nine hands on board, left one of the southern islandit .>f the Japanese
archipelago for Vedo, but encountering a typhoon, was driven to sea. After
wandering about the ocean for ten or eleven months, they anchored, on the la.'it
Sunday ofDecemlK-r, 1832, near the harbour of Waiaka, Ouhu. The Hawaiians.
wlien tliey saw a strange j>eople, much resembling themselves in person and iii
many of their huhits, said, " It is plain now we come from Asia." How fur
their unwilling course was due to current of course cannot be exactly ascer-
tained, but it would ap])ear probable that, being blown off to the northward,
tiie Kuro Siwo. a current relatively similar to the (iulf Stream of the Atlantic,
may have carried them eastward, and then within range of the south-westerly
vurreut, which drifUi piue limber,

THE SANDWICH ISLAN'DS.

1069

the greater pnrt

(> term — that is,
ihc year is when
»pic, viz., in Do-
f grodt violence.
II has to be bus-
ty repular ; there
those from S.W.,
w hours t> two
im strong enough

tirnt sight wouhl ™
unil ut other times
)e governed by the
iiu8t a fresh breeze,
lin the influence of
ontestably demon-
some general luw.
from tt single pine
i was more singular
.1 end of Kauui in a
circumstance of fir
I is by no means un-
: had come froni the
ce be supposed, that

n the current drifu
wo have noticed the
at the entrance of
ic, a junk latlen with
antlw .)f the Japanese
riven to sea. After
anchored, on the la."it
ahu. The Ilawaiians.
Ives in person and iu
•m Asia." How far
Kit be exactly oscer-
(tr to the northward,
:ream of the Atlantic,
of (he south- westerly

Sir Edward Hclcher experienced a strong current to W.N.W. when off
Honolulu, and it frequently runs at the rate of IJ miif por hour. These con-
Bi<lcrnti(ms must greatly influence all navigation conducted between the islands.

The Tides arc comparatively incoiiNiilerable, and, with the heavy swell set-
ting upon the outer reefs, difficult to estimate*, but they are very regular, flow-
ing and ebbing six hours each. The Jhtod comes from the eastward ; and it is
high water, on full and change of the moon, at 3*" 45"' apparent time. Their
greatest rise is 2 ft. 7 in., and the water is always observed to be 4 inches
higher when the moon is above the horizon that) when it is below.

Earthquakes are common, especially in Hawaii, where the volcanos are still
in activity. Of course they are more severe in that island than in the others,
where the subterraneous fires seem to be extinct.

Several very severe visitations have been recorded since their discovery, and
in some cases the phenomena, which have been carefully observed and re-
corded, afford very interesting subjects for the physical geographer. The
earlier eruptions apparently arose from Kiluuea, lUuse of more recent times
from Mauna Loa.

The first recorded is an eruption of Kilauea, in 1789. The next waa an
eruption from the same volcano in 1823, when the iuvu tlowed to the sea at 12
miles from its source. The third was iu 1832, and wa.s an eruption from Kiluuea,
and also from the summit ' f Maiuia Loa, when lava tlowed for two or three
weeks. The fourth was on May 30, 1840, when lava flowed from the side of
Kilauea, and formed a stream 3.^ miles long, reaching the sea, in five days.

The fifth eruption began on Mauna Loa on January 10th, 1842, when a
stream of lava issued from its summit, and, running northward, it divided, one
branch towards Hilo, and a second towards Kawaihae. On February ICth,
1852, another stream of lava issued from the same cr.iter, and, with some in-
terruptions, continued for a month, but did not reach the sea, its course being
checked at only 10 miles from Hilo.

A most alarming erujition from Mauna Loa commenced on .\ugust 1 1 th,
1855, and the lava continued to flow for thirteen months, until it covered an
area estimated at 300 square miles. Again, on January ■-'3rd, 1859, another
great stream of lava burst forth, and flowed for six months, reaching the sea
about 7 miles to the S.W. of Kawaihae.

The greatest eruption on record commenced by some slight premonitions, in
Miirch, 1868, by some earthijuakes. These shocks became so numerous that
■J.tMJO were counted in a few days. Some of these were very destructive, and
:ucomi)anied by a great sea-wave and a mud eruption which ^^wept away and
buried villages, men, cattle, itc, and on April 7th, ten days after the first
symptoms of the convulsion, a new crater opened on the flank of .Mauna I/oa ;
a stream of lava tlowed into the sea half-way between .Apua and the southern
jioint, the mud-flow meanwhile winding its course to the North of this ilirec-
tiou. (.>nc of the fairest parts ol tnc islaud was thus in a single day converted

til

J'fo

tf$^

1070

THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.

ill

iulo a black-looking, desolate tract of cinilers ami nmd. In many places in
Kau the ground opened, chasms of unknown depth were formed, whence buI-
phurous exhalations were emitted ; a fiosure, some miles in length, exten<li'd
inland from the coast, crossing one of the island high-roads, and so deflecting
it that what were contrary sides before were, at the point of breakage, in one
and the same straight line. The floor of the crater in the Kilauea Tolcano sank
considerably. At I.«haina, upwanl.s of 100 miles from the scene of the erup-
tion, the c<)lumn of cloud ascending from it was obsterred undex an angle of
3" 30', which (allowing for 500 ft. of altitude, tlie poxition of the observer) in-
dicated a height of nearly H milen. So Tatt a bo<ly of vapour rushing visibly
upwards with tremendous rapidity, proved the presence of an immense heat at
its base ; the great rarefaction by heat of the air near the new ctater would
cause a powerful upward draufrht ; then the eoldair, charged with the vapoius
of the surrounding iH'a, must rush in. For days after the eruption, the leeward
islands were enveloped not only in a elose oppressive atmosphere, but in clouds
und heavy rains. A very distinct odour of «ulphurous acid was perceptible at
Honolulu, IKU miles distant, two days after the eruption. The earthquakea
were continued at intervals for mmo months.

On the night of February Mih, 1877, Mauna I.^a was again in eruption for
about six hours <mly, and two streams of lava flowed down the mountain
tov. vda the South. The illumination was so brilliant thiit all parttt of Hawaii
were iighte<l up, and even on Maui, at a distance of 180 miles, the glare was
BO great that the planters of West Maui thought & great conflagration wa«
taking place on their own island. On the 24th, a i^ubmarinc eruption was ob-
served at Karakakoa, at about a mile fi-om the shore. — Captain Mat, K.N.,
(Jeofraphical Mayazinr, May, 1877, p. 133.

On May 10th, 1877, tliet»e islands were visited by a huge wave, which caused
much destruction. It appears to have o<'Curred simultaneously at about 4* ITj"
a.m., all over the ^ ' up. It* range at different plucea was wtimated to Iw as
follows : — At Hilo, on the N.K. side of Hawaii, ;JG ft. ; at Karakakoa, on the
West side, 30 ft. ; at Kawaihae, on the N.W. side, 5ft.; at Kahului, on the
North side of Maui, 2:2 ft. ; at Lahaina, on the N.W. side, 12 ft. ; ,nt Honolulu,
4 ft. 10 in.; and at Nawiliwili, on the South side of Kauai, 3 ft. As u«)ticed
on previous occasions, tlie rise at Hilo and Karak.iAoa were the greatest.

In 1880— IHHl, Mauna Loa was again in violent eruption, and emitted a
vast stream of lava which at ene time threat* nod to overwhelm the town of
Hilo, the lava at last stopping near the edge of the fjwn. about ''0 miles from
its source, and only ihrec-quarlers of a mile from the sea.*

The archipelago consists of twelve islands, which were discovered by Cook
in hia last voyat^e ; of these five are uninhabited, and are barren rocks. Tiicy

• Tho»«» int>'rert<.<l in \hx6 suhjtot sbouU rtfir to Mr Hiij^hniuii " M< uolr on t^it 11*-

WillliiU VoksjQUt."

nAWAII.

1071

•re divided into two groups. Windward and Leeward, according to their posi-
tion with r<«g!iird to Oahu, the central island. They will all be described in
order, commencing with the S.E.

Thr<>>ighout the archipelago there is every evidence of their upheaval, and
tlie datos of these elevations arc manifest in the conditions of the different
islands. Those to the westward are the most ancient, Nihoa and Niihau are
the oldest; Kauai, Molokai, and Maui follow; and Hawaii, the largest and
most recent, is still in activity. But although it is awcrted that the western
islands nre the oldest, it may not be strictly correct, except in the sense that
the evidence of recent volcanic action is least evident tlierc. But everywhere
there are marks of a gradual or convulsive elevation of the group. On Molokai,
in the middle of the islands, coral is found at 500 ft. elevation, and in Kauai
coral beds lie at 4,000 ft. above the sea. It is in Hawaii itself, however, that
the grandest evidence of the plutonic origin of the islands is most evident and
active. In the other islands lava streams and extinct craters are recognisable,
but in the great island some of the most terrible pucnomena of volcanic dia-
turbauce have been shown in late years, as noticed previously.

There is very great variation between the orthography used by the early
voyagers and that subsequently adopted by the missionaries on a more intimate
knowledge of the language. The latter mode io, of course, to be considered as
the CO. rcct one, anu is that placed first in those pages.

HAWAII, the south-eastern, and by much the largest of the group, is called
(M'hi/hf« by C'i>ok and others; Kotzebue calls it Wahi; Freycinet and others,
Ott'hyhi. All these words are representations of the same sound.

Hawaii is of a somewhat trianf^ular form ; the West side, running generally

N. by W. i W. and S. by E. i E., is nearly 100 miles in length between the

North and South points; the N.E. side is 76 miles, and the S.E. .>»ide is 60

miles long ; so that its whole circumference may be taken na about 250 geo-

t graphical, or 288 Briiish statute miles.

The mountains of Hawaii do not ascend in peaks, as do many other volcanic

I islands, such &s Kimco or Tcneriffe, but rise gradually and comparatively un-

ibroken, particularly from the southern .shore, t« the iofty summit of Mauna IxMi.

^Its appearance altogether is less romantic and picturesque than Tahiti, but it

is more nmjViitio and grand.

There are but few inland settlements on the East and N.W. parts of the
Usland, but in (general the interior is an uninhabited wilderness. There is a
past ceutrul valley between the three great mountains, a great desert of lava.
lof every known kind, it is only the northern plain, tlio eastern 8loi)e, and
|»ome jwrtions of the South and West, which are productive, and where are to
|bc found sugar estates, and cattle " ranches " and sheep " runs " equal to any
fin the world.

There are three principal mountains in Hawaii, Mauna Kea in the N.E..

. «■

j ■ -

?•»•

Bouthernmosi o^ . ,uounUin lo ' prevail, an" ^'^b

tnrs Although R 9»«^ . ^un^mU froHt* V ,y^^^ iant«

tains, w)'-'' ,„i in *o""*" ^ » »,U of cone craitr"'

„„,i.e.-..»« l«'*- ""> „ ,,„ tcel. .„,i to b. one ot (be

«»„a L0» ."• "■^'i^ AW,.»Bb "" '»""'•;,,.. l-n .ncrc«-B.
.UU w be ranVcd -"^ * , ,„„. ,he »™;"'"" ° ' l„.Uy e» i" »»'*7
form i. *»' »• »" " " li, .« •««'■■"'''"'• "' , „41 Tbe b-Bb"' 1»"

o b.W »' *^ """"""vet .3.'^" «• ■'"' T, »"«. »» *- "•;'■

U«r ob«.T«»W'»' ""'"V,,, .^luK miles. .-'1 1""% j Thi. " *°
rflleb.ae.e„...e.«Wc^_, :„, ^^ ^„^„, er^P- -^,„. „,,„ ,„U....o

HAWAII— IIILO BAY.

1073

(1 on ft
formed
ountain
which

Vancouver),
cipal moun-

lalcr. vrhich

surrounding
8, or hiUs of
8 on iU i^i'les.

be one of the
in 1-XCCS9, it i<» ■
,eon incrcasins;.
;»a\ crater. lt»
yon its northern
servatu.nft nv.vile
he hit;hest part

•,0 ft. a^"^*' ^***'
wl extensive one,

,9 all those won-

^^1. This is the

boon among the

his active volcano

real measure uniu-

,, and to the Kn»t

,.„« elevated 4.400
l.lerm^ ruins ; w^at
,^,. -l-o the S.li- "f

it is a line of craters, from some of which n great eruption occurred May 31,
1840.

Having thus desorihed briefly and imperfectly these, the most wonderful
features of the Pacific, wc pass on to the coast, commencing with tlic S.E.

Cape Xumokahi, or h'apnho Point, the eaNtcnuiiost projection of Hawaii,
has some sunken rocks off it. Tlio country is exceediiigly fertile ; gu^ar-cane
grows here in abundance, coffee suceeods well, as do indigo and tacca, from
which arrowroot is made. The coa.st to the N'.W. is a precipitous shore, about
16 ft. high, on which the sea beats with violence at all times. It is bestrewed
with Inva streams, apparently of old date. At -i miles from the East point is
Puna, where there is a large church, but no village, as the houses are much
scattered. Hunakiki, a small village, is 1^ mile from I'una. At 4 J miles from
the East point is a spot where an extensiTc stream of lava enters the sea, calle<i
Nanavalie. I'rior to the eruption in 184U, the coast here was a continuous
lava cliff: now it is occupied by three sand-hills, formed by the lava stream, of
very singular formation, the highest 260 ft. There is no appearance of shoal
water opjwsite, though such was sUited to be the case.

HILO, Waiakea, or Byron Jhiy, is the first, indeed the only i)Iace of conse-
quence to tlie seaman, on this windward side of the island, the anchorage
being good, and the harbour capacious. Lord Hyron called it Hulo (Hilo),
after the village in the bottom of the bay. Lieut. Maiden called it after
another village, li'aid/iea ; and the liiird is from the name of the commander
of ILM.S. Blonde, the first man-of-war that ever anchored here.

Hilo, the second town in poj)ulation and comtnercial importance in the
Hawaiian Lslands, is situated on the S.W. side <if this beautiful bay. and close
southward of Waterfall Creek. Here the crescent shore slopes to tlie water's
edge, terminating in a regular sandy bench, affording excellent landing for
boats. The surrounding scenery is the most beautiful in the Sandwich Islands,
but the climate is wet, showers occurring duilv.

The jiopulation of Hilo proper, as near as can be ascertained, was 1,760. Of
this, the active business p()rti(m is composed of foreigners, chiefly Auierieaus,
and there are many Chinese of the better class.

There are two substantial churches in Hilo. The Protestant church is large,
I indeed sufhciently commodious for the entire poi)ulali(in of Hilo. The Koman
Catholic church is also commodious, well ctuistructed, and roofed with slate.
It is finely situated, with its white towers and belfries, surmountt d by two
crosses, directly in front of the harbour. There ar« several schools, stores, an
iron foundry, and all other accessories of civilization. There are several sugar
[plantations in the surrounding country.

The coast on the western side of tlie bay runs about \. by W. and S. by E.,
|with a depth of ('> fathoms about 2 cables off it. At its head, and off the town
Bf Hilo, the dej)th of 5 fathoms is found at from 3i to 5^ cables off, the depth
A'orth Pacijic. g j^

I' '■

■?\\
, ■:' r I
,,.1*1.

t :-T' '■' '

:«T

.^rf?-

—rTltum»mm i .. r

1074

TJIE R^WmViril ISLANDS.

ill I

i ■

thraoe (lecrtMisinp gradually to the shore. At HJ cables E««t of Hilo is the
Tillage of W'hyeatra,, and here is the best landiiiK place for boats, tlioiigh it is
catty to land anywhere on tlie beach in proper boats. At 4 cables N.N.K. of
Whyentea is (\noa-uul Ishtnil, lyinj? close to the coast, in lat. 1'.)' 43 51' N.,
lon^;. l.'i.'i"" .')' l.'> W., with some rocks extending I J cable N.W. of it.

Blonde Reef.— At nearly a mile K. by N. of Toetw-nut Island a bank of 1 .J
to 3 fathoms rxtcMxls 1 j mile off shore to the W.N.W., of irregular form as
shown on the chart, and leaviiif; a chanml threcMiuarters of a mile wide lie-
tween its western edp' and the West shore of the l)oy, with a depth of •; to
1 1 futlioms in it. When the wind blows strong, a heavy surf breaks upon this
reef, but inside it is smooth. Its width averages about half a mile.

Tlie anchorage, which is shellered from the N.K. by Hlonde Itcef, is in ft to
H futlioms. sliir muddy bottom, the former deptii being touuv! Lantward of
('(>c(iu-n\it Isliuiil. and the dfcper water to the N.W. of it. It is only exposed
between North and \N'. by N., from which tpiarter the wind never blows hard
in summer, and but very rarely in the winter; tmly one northerly gale had
been felt in two years. The tide rises about I ft., high water at sunset, and
low water at «laylight. being influenced by the sea and land breezes.

The harbour of llilo, witii little expense, could be made one of the safest
and most commodious in the I'aeifie. Hy constructing a breakwater ou the
reef northward of Cocoa nut Island it would be perfectly safe, landlocked, an<l
sheltered at all times. This could In; easily effected, as it is but a short
distanee to immense bvds of basaltic, vitreous, and vesicular lava, which would
resist the action of water for ages. The jiort is now more ca{>aeious than any
other bay or harbour on the island, and it is uot subject lu vioIei)t gales from
any quarter.

>>upplie« of fresh meat can be obtained, but vegetables aiid fruit arc srnroc.
Firewood also can be purchased. There is a go<id watering-place »ip Water-
fall C'rcfk. within tlie mouth of Waialuku Uivcr, which is generally easy of
aceesB, excejit when the wind is blowing hard from the north-eastward ; on
such occasions the surf is high, and the rocky bar at the entrance tbcM becomes
dangerous for boats to p«ss. 'I'he water is excellent and abuiulant.

Light*.— About Ij mile N by W. of Waterfall Creek is t'oct»a-nut C«ive,
and near the edge of the cliffs, about a tjuarter of a mile farther northward, is
a small white building, 14 ft. high, showinga^j-r*/ briyht light, elevated llJfi ft.,
and visible 10 mik-s, but it cannot l)e depended on. When bearing Kostit leads
well northward of Hlonde Keefs.

About a cable southward of Waterfall Creek there is a small jjier, which
forms a good lamling-place in line weather. A small fiif { red liyht is ex-
hibited on the pier. If visible, when bearing .S. by W. i W., this light leads
clear of the western edge of itlunde Ueefs.

Directions. — The fullowing directions are based on tluxe by Lieut. Maiden,
lu steering for the anchorage, with the sea-breeze, when about 3 miles tVum

}

S-yf

n.VWAII— nil/) HAY.

1075

the liottom of the liny you will bo well outside IMonflo Uovt, in 25 to 30
fathom*. 'I'lie Wput mIioic must then be kept close on board. To clear the
West end of Hlonde Keef, keep I'uueo huts, on tho N.W. hide of Waterfall
Creek, on with tlie rastcrn side of n remarkable ^^reen bill an extiii;;ui«lied
Volcano), imposRible to Ix; mist.ikcii, beariuf^ by eoiiipa**.'* S.S.W'., till Turrrt
Hock (nbout li ft. hif^b) bpura W. by S., when you will be in 7 or 8 futhomsi,
slirt" muddy bottom, and can Hteer S. K. by K. for the anohora^^o. 'I'he whole
of the West e<wiHt is composed of clttf-i. i'lmeo huts Htandin^ upon the l<i't ami
most soutluTly visible clitf. When close olf the North extrenu' of ltU)iide lieef
a deep inlet, called Curua-nut Cote, in consecpieiiee of there being a group of
theue trees at the entrance, is (juite oj»en, bearing W. by N.

As there are no dangers in the channel, and it is more than three-quarters
of a mile wide, there is (juite room to beat any vcN.'«el out against the sea-
breeze, which, if it be fresh anil steady, is preferable to running out at day-
light with the land wind. The land wind frequently leaves you in the lurch,
and you are obliged to come-to in deep wat«»r, to prevent being driven upon the
rocky clitfs of the West cou»t. Indeed, in turning out of the bay, with a good
strong sea-braeze, as soon as you are to windward of the reef, she should keep
boating to windward in a N.K. or N.K. by K. direction, not attempting to
weather Makahanaloa or Point Mlonde, the North point of the bay, until it can
be d(mc with certainty, at the distance of <^ or 6 miles at least ; for, when at 3
or I miles northward of Cocoa-nut Cove, there is no bottom with 30 fathoms,
within half a mile of the shore. So that, should a sailing vessel in this situation
be becalmed, her state would be most dangerous, u heavy swell and current
con.stuntly setting againttt the precipitous clill's.

Capt. Wilkes remarks: — I cannot but view the Ray of Ililo »«.8 a safe an-
chorage. We were detained there about three months, and never had a gale
strong enough to ride our anchors, though these were the winter months,
Deetiuber, lamiHry, and February. At times, however, a considerable swell
rolled in. Koine most delightful weather was experienced in February.

The whole settlement forms a pretty cluster ; the paths and roadsides are
]>lantcd with pine-upplos, and the soil covered with a rank vegetation. Waiakea
I'oint is on the opposite side of the bay from llilo, at rather more than a mile
off; the path between leads along a sandy beach, ou which the surf continually
breaks, and at times with great violence.

'• The scene which tho island presents, as viewed from the anchorage in
llilo Bay, is both novel and splendid; the shores are studded with cxten.sive
groves of cocoa-nut and bread-fruit trees, interspersed with plantations of
sugar-cane. Through these numerous streams are seen hurrying to the ocean ;
to this succeeds u belt of some miles in width, free from womla, but clothed la
verdure ; beyond is a wider belt of forest, whose trees, as they rise high fr«m
the sea, change their character from the vegetation of the tropics to that of the

'•'•■

1076

THK SANDWICH ISLANdS.

'fril

i|^

]H)lar regions; and, above all, towvr th« anow-cupiH'd summiU of tho moun-
tains."— (Wilkes, vol. ir., p. no.)

Hilo, viewed from the harbour, presents much the Mine tropical appearance
an other partH of the iHlamlN, and ns a punoriiinic view it ih not aurpn.trted iit
beautv and grandeur of Hcenery by any other H]>ot in tlie kinj^oin. 'l'lier« is a
luxuriouHneMt and freshness in tho vcKotation, a iivin(?(^reen in the verdure and
foliage, that combine to present an ohnoNt jwrfect j)iet«ire. 'I'he cret«eeiit .iweep
of the bay, ending with tlie cluster of cocoa-nuts on the i^and, the towerinjj
heights of .Mauna Kea behind, tlie mitjeittic dome of Muuna Loa, all help to
form a landscape scene seldom e<jualled.

The following remark» are by Mr. H. Thompson, R.N., master of II. M.S.
Talbot, which wai> here in Jime, lH-15 : —

The anchoroge in Hyron Hoy is oj)on to oil winds from North to K. by N.,
being only Hheltered in that tlinvtion by an extensive sunken reef, Klondc
Ilecf, which sufficiently breaks the sea to render a nhip comporatively safe
behind it. The pilot told me that during his residence of twenty years here
he had seen some very strong gales from the N.H., but hud never known any
vessel suffer by them ; yet I am of opinion that on such occasions a vessrl
would tiad it very heavy riding, and should be provided with good ground
tackle.

There is seldom any difficulty experienced in entering this bay, as the sca-
breere blows right in, and should it be ever so light, with the iissistanee of the
swell astern, and bouts towing if necessary, the onchornge will be gained in
safety. But the egri'ss is not so easy ; it is often attended with difficulty, and
sometimes with risk. The channel between the reef and the shore is rather too
narrow to allow u square-rigged vessel to work through, unless she be a small
one, and then it should be only with a commanding breere.

To sail out of Hyron Hay, a ves,sel should start with the first of tho land-
breeee, which generally comes off soon aft^-r midnight, so as to get a gtnjd offing
b«;fore it ceas»8, otherwi.se, if daylight is waited for, tht land wind will »eldouj
hold long enough to take a vcsnel sufficMently off shore to k-avc her in a s;ifo
position ; and should the s«^a-liree7.e fail to blow home to the coast during the
day, which not unfre<j\iently happens, thereby leading her expiwcd, heiplesn,
to a heavy swell setting directly towards the reef, a vessel's own boats' towing
would h.nve but little effect against it. There is a deep-water anchorage out-
side the re<f, and there is also anchorage in tho channel, in Ut to 12 fathoms;
but both these onchorages are unsafe when blowing fresh.

From the similarity of the coast, and the want i»f remarkable objects in tho
vicinity of this bay, there are no conspicuous marks that would guide a vessel
to or from the anchorage. The general rule for approaching the anchorage is
to close the land a little to the northward, und run down along shore rather
within the distance of half a mile, which will lc.">d a vessel a little inside the
North extremity of lilonde liccf, which may be bt?n from a slight elevation

HAWAII— NORTHEAST COAST.

1077

•bore thp deck. There u a long gulley running up the land in a Boutherly
directiun from Cocoa-nut Cove, which forms a good object to 8tecr for when
once made out, as it leadn clone to the entrance of the channel ; it appoan
like a dark mark in tbo laud, uud there is nothing in that vicinity which re-
sembles it.

The Coaat to tbo northward of TTiloisnomcwbnt peculiar ; it is a steep bluff,
rising about 'iOO ft. ; this is cut into snuill breaks, ciiIUmI here " gulches,"
within -hich the villiiges arc generally situated, and thenatires grow hurtanns
and taro. ThpRc gulches are rayiucs from HIK) to 1,000 ft. deep, which have
been apparently worn by wuter-courses. There is no landing for boats, for all
along the coast the surf beats on the rocks with gri:at violence.

Ueyond llilo Hay the N.F.. coast of Hawaii is a le«> shore, withotit shelter or
anchorage. The coast is firm and compact, terminating generally in steep
rocky cliH's, with a few Muiall indi'iited bays, rendered easily accessible to the
native caniR-s by ttio sandy beaches that bound them. From these rugged rocky
cliffs many streams of water fall into the ocean.

Laupahot, several miles northward of Hilo, was the great pulu depot for this
side of the mountain, and i.-> a pleasant-looking humlet, situated at the mouth
of a deep ravine.

Capt. Sir Edwurd Belcher approached the.se i.slands from the E.S.E.,.Iuly 7,
1H37, and pacsing within 3 or 4 miles of the breaker line, witnessed those
numerous cascades resulting from tlio showers emanating from the heavy clouds
which cappoJ the summits of Maui and Hawaii. " No description can convey
the idea of the number and variety of the silver threads which they • xhibited ;
and a sketch, including twenty leaps within lUU or iJUO yards, would appear
almost a burlesque, yet such was the fact."

The south-eastern portion of this section of the land has a very drear}- aspect ;
Vancouver soys it was jjorfectly uncultivated, and nearly destitute of habita-
tions ; those which are to be neea are small, and thinly scattered. Advancing
to the N.W., the population and cultivation increiwe. At about 15 miles from
Urulakaka I'uint (^lat. 20' a ), which is called by Nancouvcr the N.I',. point,
tiic coast is composed of a clu.siir of remarkably high, .steep, rugged, and
loniantic clilfs, discharging from their nuktcl summits inanv rapid cataracts
into the ocean. The rushing of these impetuous torrents down the black
barren surface of the rocky cliffs, contrasted with the enchanting, cultivated,
and populous country to the Kast and West, and behind this dreary frontier
for a considerable distance up the sides of the lofty mountiiins, on approaching
them in the oiling present u very beautiful and picturcst^ue appearance. Nearly
in the centre of these cliffs is a tolerably deep, small bay, off the U'uimurtu
Valley, much resembling in api)earancc, and most other respects, the bay in
the island of St. Helena; but it seems too much exposed to the sea and the
prevalent wind to be an eligible place for shipping. At 3 miles to the west-

J-

».-:

Vf .

1078

Till". SAM)WICII ISLANKS.

ill

1^1

,.' i

III-

wiinl of lliis l»ny, off tlu? wcstoni ostriniity of these cIKTm, lio iomc rocky iilct*,
II little (Ustntu'e from the liuul.

NVi'ntWHrd of thoHt' clilfs there ore wmndin^* off kIiofo, nn Vuncniiver fouii<l
7 fntlutni'* nt '2 miles off, the North (\V««t) point lK•llritl^ S. 70' W.. milea
ilistnnt. 'I'he !*ei\ hrcaks with print vioh-nco near the «hore nt this jmrt, ni»(l no
loininuoH nil the way to the N.W, point of the inlanil. Thtre wriH n very henvy,
confiisetl, irremilar wa, wliieh wat< KUNpectctl to Hriitt; from u very •uilJen dc-
civoMS in iti4 depth, and the effvctM of u Ktrong khIc.

.y/nhulionu in n small port where the coahtinx dt<:imer« mil. niid from hrnco
there i* a railway to Kuhala and Niulii, fur the tr.iii'<]M)rt of HUgiir, kc, from
(he plantatiourt.

Upola Point is the N.W. point of TInwnii. The land here falK in n prndunl
dencent from the Imsc of the mountains, and form* an extcn.Mvn plain towardn
the water wide, which oremiwl to be in a kigh MttU^- uf uultivutiun, uud abuundit
with native houM'H.

The h'ohala dixlrict occupie* the North part of Ilav...;. and i* 'divided from
that of Wnimen, to the southward, by n rnti^^e of mouiiUiiiis. The aoil on tho
leeward shore ii« barren from 3 to 5 mileM inland. On the wi idward Hhore it
is of good quality quite to the beach, llic face of the country is regular,
gradually anceiidiug from the coast to the sumiiiit of the high landn. Kohnla,
or Kouala, in the principal place in the district, uud there i» an Americua
Miiwion Station here.

There are HoundingH off tho coufit to the southward of Cpolu Point. Van-
couver anchored here nlxiut 7 mikii from the point, in II fathoms, but tlrovc
otr the hank in the night with n gust of wind from the land. On this account
it is objectionable ; it io exp<>se<l to the North winds, which, with thowe that
blow from the N.W., arc the most violent and dangerous known in this country.

Kawaihae Bay, Touaihai, Tueaiyh (Vancouver;, t Tue-i^ah-yah (King), ia
II miles southward of I'polu I'oint. Captain King Niy» this extensive bay is
bounded to the North by two very eonspifuouH hiiU. Towards the bottom
there is foul corally ground, but tho soundings are regular, with good an-
chorage in 120 fathoms. St)uthward of the village a large patch of coral, dry
at very low water, extends about half a mile olf shore ; its outer e<lge always
l>reaks.

Light. — A fiifd hriyht light is exhibited as a guide to the anchorage of
Kawuihac; it i« shown on the North side of the shallow channel loading to
the pier, and is elevnWd about SO ft. above the sea. and is visible 10 miles.
With the light bearing K.N.K. there is good anchorage in h or G fathoms, about
a quarter of a mile from the shore.

On approaching this bay from the westward, a conspicuous white tomb will
be first seen appearing like u church steeple, then the white liglithouse, north-
wnrd of which there is a deep valley. 11. M.S. h\intome anchored in 'J fathoms,
R.ind, about 4 cables from the shore, with the lighthouse bearing K. by N., the

•I 1

HAWAII- KAWAIIIAK HAY.

1079

toml) E. i N., ami the Morni N.K. by E. } E. A ri'd Awoy in moored alMmt
10(1 yuriU KuHt of 'nil! poNitioti for tlic mail iitcamer. — Lteut. Chambri, 1877.

Vancouver anrlioreil in thin bay February 14, 1703, nnil again on February
2H, 17U1, in 2A fathoniR, on a bottom of fine brown nand and mud on the firHt
visit, and on a Btitf clay and good holding-ground un tho second, the points of
the bay bearing N. iWi" \V. ond S. 31' W. ; tho Morni, which is also con-
•picuous in pointing out the station, N. tlH' K. ; ond the wntering-plaoe at tho
distance of about \\ mile, being the nearest shore, 8. 79"' E. The Morai, or
temple, is a eonnpicuouM object, and a good leading mark into the anchoriige ;
it stnnils on a bnrirn eminentH- to the Houthward of the village, and is to I o kept
on a line with n small saddle liill, on the eiuitern land, rlescending from tho
higher parts, over the village of Toeaigh, on the North side of the bay. Its
Houth point, descending gradually from llualalni, and forming n low point, boro
by compau S. 31^ W. ; within this point, on the rismglnnd, are some elevated
hummocks; the third of these from the point, forming a kind of saddle hill in
a line with a low, ])rojectiiig, black, rocky point, in the middle of the bay,
bearing ti. 22 ' W., is u further direction, and a cross mark for this anchorage.
Ob sounding round the ship, about a fourth of a mile to the8.W.,a very small
patch of coral rocks was found, where the water was only 10 fathoms in depth,
but increatied suddenly to 20 fathoms all around it. This was afterwards found
to have only 3 fathoms in one part. On the opposite side, however, was clear,
good anchorage fur about a mile, where many vessels might ride without in>
convenience from the bottom, though nevertheless exposed to the violence of
the winds and sea between the limits above mentioned, comprehending 1 13 in
the western cpiarter.

The shoal is u very great inconvenience to (lie roadslend, which is at bcSt
but a very indilFerent one, being entirely exposed to tho N.W. winds and tho
western oceanic swell, which beats with great violence on the reefs encompa.ss-
ing the shores. The only advantageous circumstances are the run of water,
w Inch, however, d(H>8 not always flow, and the probability of procuring refre.Nh-
ments, from its contiguity to the populous and fertile western part of the
Kohala district, and the plains of Waimeu lying behind the land constituting
the sea-eoa.st.

The watering-place is in a small sandy bay, where, over a space of 20 yards
of rugged roek.s and stones, a fine stream empties itself, whose water is easily
to be procured by landing the casks on the snndy beach.

Vancouver says : — " Toenigh (Kawaihae) is situated in a grove of cocoa-nut
trecH, just behiud a sandy point. A reef of coral rocks, extemiing thence alxHit
three-ciuartcrs of a mile into llie sea, rendered it inaccessible to our boats in a
direct line, bat we landed very comniodiously in a narrow channel betwwii ilie
reef and the shore, near the Morai. to the 8.K. of the beacii. The village only
consisted of straggling houses: in the centre of them wa.s a reservoir of salt
water, from which nalt was made."

fei-

''I

"^ '■^^"'I'WtWWWgTMM^jWWim *»C>%'iHw

lORO

THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.

P ■

mm-

;*!*,

1^1

if,

I ill

Capt. Wilkes «aT« of this part:— The diKtrict of Wnimea is situntcd on the
N.W. side of the islnnd. So much of tlic soil of this district as lies alonj; the
coast, though rich, is Iwdly watered, and 7 or H miles in the interior from
Kawaihae Hay it l>ocomeH excMMliiiijly rocky and harron. The hij;h land to
the eastward of Kawaihae causes almost a ])crpi<tual calm. The mountain rc-
gfion is rocky, and has a hurnt appearance, until the eastern sids of the moun-
tain is reached, when a dense forest and a most luxuriant vepotation succeed.
The chmatc of this district is. upon the whole, unplea.sant, particularly at
Waimea, in conscijucncc of the trade wind, which is exceeding strong, bring-
ing with it a mist towards sunset. This wind rushes furiously down between
the mountains which bound the valley of Wiiinica, and becomes very dangerous
to shipj)iiig in the bay. It is called by the natives " Munuiku," and is foretold
by them from an ilhuninalcd streak that is .^een far iiilami. 1 IiIh is believed to
be caused by the retlection of the twilight on the mist that always accompanies
the Mumuku.

The productions of Waimen are the same hs those of the other districts, but
it also abounil> in timber of goiKl ^izt• and ipiality for building. This wi« the
famous sandal-wood district, whence Kamehameha (the king^ procured the
cargoes he sold for the Canton market. Waimea was also the principal place
of exjKTt for hides, tallow, and bccf.

From the bottom <^f the bay tlic cok.-'t extends for about 2W miles in an irre-
gular S.S.W. direction to the westernmost point of Hawaii, Aaulano I'oint. It
docs not appear to atford any shelter or inlerest to the mariner.

The great lava stream which flowed from the summit of Mauna I/oa in .Janu-
ary — July, 18ftS», reached the sea about l.i miles to the iS. W. of Kawuihae, and
considerably altered the features of the co.ist.

The S.W. side of the Lsland is termed the district of Kona (or Akoita\ and
includes Kealakekua and Kairua or Kailau. 'I'he district of Kailau is similar
in character to that of Kealakekua, but the lava is of a more recent formation,
the eruptions from Mauna Ilualalai, in 1809 and IMIO, having llowed down
and covered nearly the whole nortiiern portion. The iiioiiiiUiin is H,72j ft. high,
and rises abruptly on its West side.

This being the lee .side of ihj island, as explained in a former j>agc, rain very
seldom falls here, and this, with the ab«ence of all dew, does not allow of much
cultivation. 'I here is coarse herbage enou;^h for slight pasturage near the shore,
but farther inland it becomes better, and tiic taro and bread-fruit are abundant.
l.jind and sea bree/es are very regular, and are the prevalent winds.

Kailua, Kairua, or, as it is called by N'aucouver, Tyahtaluoa Hat/, is in this
district, 3 miles from the We.^t jjoiiit. In Meiires's account of Capt. Douglas's
vovage. this bay is considered e(jual or superior to that of Kealakekua, but
Vancouver's closer examinaticjn led hiin to a dillerent conclusion. It is but a
(flight l>end in the general line of coast, not more than 2 cables in depth,
according to (apt. Dupcrrey's chart, and scarcely <lescrving the name of a bay.

msmmmmmsmmsmmmm^'^'^'

HAWAII— KAILFA HAY.

IftftI

1 on the
loHg the
or from
laud to
itain ro-
e moun-

gUCCOCil.

ilarly at
I?, brint;-
betwi-en
aiij;eri>UB
I forctt>lii
lii ved to
oiupanictt

rictB, but
1 wiia the
;ur»nl tlic
ij)iil plucc

n an irro-
J'oint. It

I in Jimu-
iihae, and

ona], and

is winular

riimtion,

cd down

ft. liiyh,

riiin vtTV
cif much
If hhori',

uhuiidaut.

iH in t)ii!i

I lou^laii'H

,1'kun, but

It in but a

in depth,

o uf a buv.

VancouTCr anchored with the northcrumost ju-int bottriui."; N 69' W.. by coni-
paas; the village, called Anc-oo-rooa, beinj^ the nenrrst fdioro, X. 30 J'., about
Haifa mile distant, and the point of Koivrooft (Kolui , S. '22' E. This was as
close to the shore as prudence would allow th«):n to lie, ind tho bottom in nil
diroptions appeared to consist of a mixture of rocks imd sand A considernble
swell rolled in from the westward, and by the beaten nppearancc of the roeliS
wliich chiftly compose the shore, this seemed to be iu ,!.^cnenii iho case, and for
tliat reason not ii very eligible j)laco for ^llipping. it ha**, however, one Mipe-
riority over Kealakekua in respect of landing. I'hi.j convenience is produced
by the jutting out of two points ; between these in a snialS cove, defended l>y
some rocks lying before it, which break the violence of the surf, and render
communication with the shore very commodious. 'Ilio lauding is on a sandy
beach, before a grove of cocoa-nut, brec iO-uit, and other tn.'cs, in tiu^ uiidi>!; of
which the village is situated. On a poiiu on the West side is th'"" tomb of
King Knmehameha, which is placed by Duperrey in hit. 1'.' 37' '2V .V., l(,i\j;'.
loG^ 1 W. ; later observations place it in 150^ 4 '20" W Towurd fhe South
part of this cove is a spring, which rose very rapidly from amongst *oriA« vocVs
which are generally covered with the sea water ; but when this is low, which
is sometimes the case, it is found to produce a stream of excellent frcv.h water;
by proper means there is no doubt but that it might be made available Jfyr ll.o
ncighbo>irhood and shipping.

Kairua Hay may be recognised from seaward by its two churchc?, audby ihe
cocoa-nut groves westward of the bay. Mauua Iluurari, bcanng N.E. by K.,
will lead to it. — Lirut. Lloyd, II. M.S. Teuedos.

The next district, or rather portion of the district of Kona, is that of Kci-
lakekua, or Karakakooa, which lies southward of the preceding. Wilke.s <ie-
."icribes it thus : — " Almost the whole coast of this district, extending 40 miles,
is one line of lava. This frequently lies in large ma.sses for miles in extent,
and is in others partially broken, exhibiting perpendicular cliffs, against which
the Bca dashes wii: fury. This formation extends half a mile into the interior,
and us the distance uom the sea increases, the soil becomes richer and more
jiroducti-.'. The face of the country, even within this rocky barrier, is rough,
and covered with bioeks and beds of lava, more or less decomposed. The land
in places reaches the altitude of 2,000 ft., and at the distance of 'J miles from
the coast begins to be well covered with woods of various kinds of trees, which
arc almost rendered impassable by an utulcrgrowth of vines and ferns. In these
woods there are many cleared spots, which have the appearance of bavin" been
formerly cultivated, or having been burnt by the descending streams of lava.
In some places these strips of wood descend to within a mile of the shore,
having escaped destruction. These are in no place parallel to the shore, but
lie always in the direction which the streams of lava would tike in descending
from the mountains. Cultivation is carried ou ; the only staple coauuoditics
Aort/i I'ltvijic. g y

l¥

1:1

; fl

1082

THE SANnWICH ISLANDS.

|!3§

lip'

I^"":

Bt present are «wcct potatoes, upland taro, and yams, tlic latter almost cntirelj
raised for shipK."

'ITie climate is niiid throughout the district, and there aro seldom strong
\Tinds. From May to September, the wet or rainy season, there \n n. good deal
of rain. In December, .January, and February, the weather is usually \ery dry,
and the winds prevail from the North, froiu which (quarter it sometimes blows
fresh.

Kealakekua or Karakakooa Bay, 13 miles S. by E. } E. from Kailun, de-
rived a sad celebrity from bcui}; tlie scene of tiie dealli of the immortil ('apt.
Cook, til*' discoverer of tlie jjroup, and tlie father of modem hydrography.

Accor^tiDg to Cupt. King, and the sketches by Lieut. CliiUl, U.N., !K7'),and
Lieut. Chambro, II. M.S. I-'anfume, 187(>, the bay is about a mile in depth, and
liw l)otween two low points of land, ij^ mile apart, N N.W. and S.S.K., the
nortidern nam^'ii Im^a I'oint, and th«' •outln'ru Keei TotJit. On the North side,
which i* flat and barr-'u, stands tho milage of Kowrowra or Kaavoloa ; an<l in
the bottom of th'- b«v, near a gTO%( uf tall cocoa-nut tret^**, tliere is another
villatrc of mure considerable wjie, called Kakooa; between them runs ti rnkv
clilf, 400 to t<0{) ft. high, iuaecessiblo from tli€ •ea-bhore. <>a the South siile
the coast, for about a milo inland, hw a rugged appearance ; beyond which the
country risen with a gradual .'i.scint, an-l i> o\fr-pread with cultivated en-
closurcK anfl gn.ves of coeoa-nut trees, where tbe Labitations of the natites aro
scottered in grout numbers. '1 h<; '•liore all rourtd the bay is covered with a
black corul rock, which makes the landing yen diMigerous in rough weather ;
cxcej>t at the village of Kakooa, where there is a fine »>a»dy beach, with a
moral, <.r burjingplace, at one extremity, and a >ma!l well of fresh water at
tlic other This bay ajipearing to t'aptain ( ook a proper place to refit tho
ships and lay in an additional supply of water and provisions, ho moored on
the North side, about a ijuarter of a mile frwm the shore, Kowrowra bearuig
N W.

Kaavoloa Corf, in the N.W. part of the bay, altliough exposed to winds
from the South and S.\N' , may hv considered a safe anchorage, except dnnsi„'
the winter months , Cook I'oint, which lies three-cjuarters of a mile eastward
of J<ava I'oint, and forms the South point c>f tlie cove, partially protecting it
fioin tlie swell. Cook's monument stands on thi- *hore, about 1 cable North of
Cook I'oint. A _Aj^(/ Any/./ /I'y/i/ is exhibited on Cook Point when the ni:i;l
vleamer is expected. Iktween ( ook I'oint and I'elcrel I'oint, three-ijuarteis
of a mile to E.S.K., there are deptlw of .30, 25, and 10 fathotns water, hotioni
c\n0^y of sand and shells; iu the vicinity oi rclcrcl I'oint, however, tise
bottom IS rocky.

Ijirge vesscU usually anchor in the middle of the bay. in 2'> fathoms, imnd.
with (ookii monument bian.ig .N.W., and Kcei I'oint S. ^ K. 11. M.S. Junloitx
Anchored in Kaavoloa Cove, in UO futhoins, abreast Cook's mouumeut, mooring
j^^ a KUro hnwrnsr to the shore, oud during lier stay of »i;i weeks ^m October

m
^

, .*»^-l'

■ JWMUIIllI ViUUUW H ^.^

iiost cnlireljr

fUlora strotiK
n n good ileal
illy very dry,
letimcs blowi

n Kfiilun, «lc-
imoitiil <"aj)t.
oj^frapliy.
N., ISTTi.nnd
in doplh, and
d S.S.K.. the
lO North side,
voloa; nnd m
re is anotluT

runs n s i ky
le South hiile
ind which llio
:ullivntod c'li-
lio natives arc
ovcred with a
u^\\ weather ;
l»«-ach, with u
ii'sh water ul
o to rrfit the

10 moored "ii
rowra bcariug

HAWAII— KEALAKEKITA HAY.

1083

and NoremWr'' fiouthrrly wind?< wore experienced only on two oconstons, when
a disngrccable swell ?et in, allhougli tlie winds were light ; iandint;, however,
was not interrupted. The best landing-placo is about half a cable southward
of Cook's nioimnient, whence there is a good road leading to Kona.

Ik'cf, fowls, sweet potatoes, and plantains can be obtained in Karakaknn, also
water nt Naipupii, on the S.E. side of tlic bay, but the tank is falling into
decay, and the wnter i" brackish in all the wells in the vicinity cf the cove

'Ihe J-unmut of Mauna Loa, bearing M. 2 N., will lea<l to Karakakoa Hay;
this svunniit has a smooth appearance, while that of Mauna Kca has a rugged
a])pearance. — Lieut. Lloyd, II. M.S. Tenedas.

The last wordn of the illustrious circumnavigator' .s joii*nal refer to this
place : —

" At II a.m. :S\inday, January 17, 177!',) we nnclioved in the bay whioh is
ealieil by tlie natives Karahakood, m 1.'! fafhnnis water, over ;i san<ly Ixtttom,
and about a (juarter of a niilo fiom the N.E. shore. In iliis >;uiati'>n the South
jioinl of the bay bore S. by W., and t!\e North jiitint \V. \ N We moored
with the stream anchor and cable to ti\«j no-thward, liubon! the sai!«. and
Rtiuck the yards and lopma.st. Tiic ships continued to be much erow^ -d with
natives, and were surrounded by a multitudi^ of canoe«. I had nowhere in the
course of ir.y voyages seen so nusuernus a Inxly of peojvie assembled at one
place ; fur, besides those who liadcomo off to us in canoes, all the shore of tiic
bay was covered with speet.Uor.s, and many hundreds were swimming round
the ship like siioals offish. We could iji't but he struck with the bingularity
of this scene ; and perhaps there wre fiw on board who now lamented our
having failed in our endeavours tn ilnd a northern passage homeward la.st
svuiimev. To tlii.s di.sappolntment we owed our havijig it in our ptwer to re-
visit the Sandwieli Islands, and to ennieii our voyage with a discoverv which,
though the last, seemed in many rc^pcet.s to be the mo-^t important that had
been made by Europeans throughout the e.\tent of the I'aeitio Ocean."

The suUwr|ucnt proceedings of tlic discovery ship* niy. familiar to most,
(apt. Cook on his landing was received by the natives in a most i xtraordinary
manner, lie received unmi.stakable evidences (-f adoration addres.SHl to him,
and sereral religious ccremonied occurred, in which he was the principal object.
The mojrt unlwuiuled liberality was also shown to liie vi.sitois, and all was
friendly and rcspt^rful. TIm? ships (juitted i!ie hay on the Ith uf Eebruarv,
but on onr- ..f tiieiu springing her foremast, they determined to return, and
roHched iheii formc! anchorage on the lUh following. Their reception was
tlie reverse of what wa» anticijiuted, and suspicion and aggression in small
matters took the place of the former good feeling. Jhis led to open outbreak,
and on Sunday, February M. 177'J, Cook landed with a boat's crew, in the
inid/.t of an immea»e and armed crowd. A chief had been unfortunately shot,
nnd the news arrsTing, was the signal for open wnrfurc, and Cook was stabbed
u\ tlic back in attemptuig i- :each the boat al the water's edge. Thua tiied

»M

■,.s: —

t \ mimi'u\<-if>m»tmi,

IJiM!

??■■

K 'r

1,1

ill!

1081

THF, SANDWICH IRIJ\.NDS.

this most rcmailcalilo man at the scene of liis most important discovery. Tlic
stone on wlwch he landed is still shown, and the stem of a tree, near to tho
»pot where he fell, was marked with an inscription on copper relating the fact,
now replaced by a monunjcnt, erected in 1874. The top of this tree has been
brought to Kngland, and deposited at Grecwich hofipital.*

The name of the bay, Karnkakooa, as Cook calls it, or Kealakckua, nccord-
ing to the missionary orthograpliy, sigiuties " the patli of llu: g'lds," and is ho
termed from a slide in the hill, still visible, by which the uativi. . believed the
gods used to cross the bay quickly.

The bay is not extensive, and opeUsS between two low and barren liills, on
each of which stands a town. Between them a higii perj)endieuiar bliilF rises
directly from the water, in which are nunuu'oiis eaves formerly and sU.\ some-
times used us places of buriivl. These caveii aix> ue^u ly inaccessible, and resorted
to by vast liucks of birds.

'I'hc district of Kau occupies the southern extremity of the i-^land. Tlic coast,
says Cap?.. King, presents a prospect of the most horrid and dreary kind, the
^^ :()le country appearing '.o have undergone a total change from the etFects of
some dreadful cunvulKiun. The ground iss everywhere covered with cinders, and
intersected in many places with black streaks, wiiich seem to mark the course
of a lava stream wlach flowci, not many ages back, from the mountain Iloa
to the shore. The southern promontory U>ekf> like tho mere dregs of a volcano,
'i'he projecting headiiind is composed <.f broken and craggy rocks, piled irregu-
larly on one ani>lhcr, and lenniuaiing in sharp jwints.

Notwithhl.inding the dismal nspect of this jtart of the island, it is much more
populous than tlic verdant mountains of I'una to the N.K. Nor is this circum-
btaiice hard to be accounted for ; the natives prefer such ground as litts more
cor»venient fur frshing, or is best .suited to the cultivation of yams, aiul ])lan-
tams. Njw, amid tlicse ruins there .ire many patches of rich soil, which are
carefully cultivated, and the neighbouring sea abounds with excellent i\f\\.
Another inducement for their residence here is that it is iixcj'unyus dii-'iivl.

I \\

• Tiio fnto of Cook is a wJ cTiJonce of n:i unfortunnt<; point in his person il churnctor.
Kis temper whs ovorboarin^f nri'l U«>ty, nm! for ihin Jiis ntUchvil friind iind companion,
Otptaiii Kiiii?, reraarku, h'; nii^rlil have U'on justly lilrimeJ. No other navif^ttor fvrir ux-
periuncc-i such a welcome. He wns the wd t>) them which tridiliun lid lh«ni to ( .ij>«ct to
ntiirn, and A"«o (O-rono), as he wn« uillrd, rrctived divini: honours una uiilx»uiiiio.l
li'iondity. I.'nfortun^tl 1y they uiJ not meet with duu contidi.ritioii, and he who wns cun-
■ileiL'd I ninortd waa ki!l<-!. Ail hit rcmaina wire zvA returnel iit tho tinH-, liut his libs
and brtast-boae, as iilso a xl'j«lgi.- from tlm N.W. c.:)i»»t of Atnorion, were ,if[iTward.i wi,r.
aS'pped ly thoao who bvlicvt-d in his riivmity. Tl.oy wore priservi'd in a ainall wicker
bifket, corrrfd with ro 1 foiithcrs, and dcjiohited in a t<-mple Jodicatod to Lone, on tho Kant
aide of th'.' ia'and. 'Jlny wore annually canic'l in prwosaion to other ]>arta of tlio island
Thfir fate haa nerer b«jn properly nscfrtninwl, hut it ia said thai aomo of tbi'm were
bfxufrht to Eo^fintid hy Libo-Liho. Tha teiuaiTider have pruhabl> b^tn hidden aiuoe
IdoK ly wai alKiliih>:d.

■I HW nmiHiK*

^-m

MAUI.

1085

wTicro tills voprtaWo prodtiotinn is collected nnd (IritMl for the China market,
and \b Bcnt to Honolulu for tthipnient in large bales. Oil' ihiit ]):ut of the const
Cnpt. King could find no ground at less than a ca})lo's length off the shore,
with IGO fathoms of line, excepting in a bight to the eastward of the South
point, where they had regular eouudings of 60 and 58 fathuins, over a bottom
of fine sand.

Ka Lae, the South point, is in lat. !«'" 51', long, l.la" 12', and on it stands a
tolerably large village. After Cook's visit it was reported that good anchorage
nnd excellent shelter existed close round on the western side of this South
point, and liad been overlooked by that navigator ; but Vancouver, to set the
matter at rest, examined it, anl found tb;it the .sliores were nearly straight, and
exposed to a tremendous surf, whieli broke witli such fury as to render landing,
if not impossible, highly dangerous, even to those inhabitants who are most
expert in the manngemcnt '' iheir canoes.

'J'he wU'>le of the S.M. side between the South point and Kapoho Point, a
distance of tlO miles, alfords not the smallest shelter or anchorage of any do-
seriplion. All this part of the island has been much altered by the cITects of
the volcano wliich stands over it.*

MAUI, or ^fo^l^fe of the older navigators, is the next large island to the
N.W., Alenuihuhii C'hnnurK between them, being -.'J^ miles in width. It is
43 miles in Iriigth, W. by .\. and Iv by S., witli :\ greatest breadth of '1-i nnlcs ;
nt a distance it appears like two islands, but a nrare;- ;i[)proach shows the low
sandy isthmus only a few feet above the sea, and G miles across, uniting the
two peninsulas. The whole island, like all the rest i/t' the group, is volcanic,
nnd appears to have been jjroduccd by the two adjacent voicanos, which have
ejected the enormous masses of matter of ^v'iuch it is composed. The island
resembles Tahiti more than iiawaii ilocs, both in form and appearance. The
lofty sunmiits of the southern piiimsula are never covereil with snow, though
they are ot'tcu seen above the clouds. The high land is steep and rugged,

• Th<> Hoiithom fTtremity of Ilnwnii s\itT r»'d most from the jrreat eruption of Mauna
Lor, ijf ISO.H, alliiduil to on puift- lOi'.'.V It cumnicncoJ, with but ft;w wiirninKS, on March
aVth, and fnim th.il period to April UUh it w.is cstimattd lluit ttct^ thommmi shuik* wero
frit, thi) hcivirst on .\pnl 2nd. which ww felt in ironolulii, and Jt-dtrojed every churoh
Bud liwi'llin,' in t^u Kau or tiiulhcm iinirict of ilnw.ni. ( in .April Ttti, a n^fr enter sud-
donU ImiKt out on tiio gidts of iho ni uiiiiftin, noar a houso, whiili win uov.-r. d with Uv..
teit iniHuii-i iiftiTwardK, iind from it a rivt-r of liro, viiryini^ frum .lOO tu 1,200 or I.jOO l> ••
wide, ri.u couthwiiid it tli>> nto of 10 inilfS nn Itour. '1 hi» l.iv i Btri/am ru.ithfd th.' Sviuih
point, and tho A""u jwckot, pli.•..sMl^,' ihi- point ut thi> Unif, it i< ottid at ;f nule.i diaunee
(prolnibly ixii(,'g<rato<i;, »5W a conieul iiiuuid, 400 fout high, rise out of the seo inidwar b*'
twi^en thu LinJ and tbe vt'Wfl, tlin mud i-»#pnlu'rini^ h-r uiiiN. Thn l.iv.i tlowcl down t»
this inland, i» that it nuw juiiw tlui land. Tho whole of thii Kutt district wa» d<;«oI«t«d
ftud much loM of life eti«>ie<i, >o ihit i; i» now nlfflott descrle I.

1086

Tiir, R.wmvirn islands.

f, %

dhowing at all times the igneous nntiirc of its formntion, extinct craters and
indurntetl lava streams. Where this has decomposed, the sides of the moun-
tains are covered with shrubs and trees.

The surface of the nortliern peninsula docs not appear to he of such recent
formation as that of the southern, and nUhou^Ii it is of evident volcanic forma-
tion, the marks of reernt eruption are seKloin seen.

The aspect of the two portions of Maui are very <li>*tinct from each otluT.
East Maui chielly consists of Mauua llnlmkaUt /'house of the .-iun "), which,
from j)erpeiulicuhir clitfs near the sea, ri'>es in many jiarts with one ur.hroken
elope to the summit, 10,030 ft. high, somewhat resembling Mauna Ke.i, on
Hawaii. West Maui is very much intersected by sharp peaks and rul^es,
separated by dceji valleys wiiich form slopiiif; plains of cou'-iderable extent to
the i\orthward and southward. The highest peak of We.^t Maui is Murtnu o lurka,
6,130 ft. high, and the greater part of this peninsula is grazing land.

Mauna HaUdhala has the largest known crater in tlie world, or it may br
that it is formed of several craters. The mountain is 10,0;iO ft. high, and the
crater nu-asurcs over JO miles around its edges, and is 2 miles across its widest
p.ivt. The summit is hare. At the height of s.ooo ft. there is a largo cavern,
('apt. Wilkes s.ays : — ' The crater of llaloakala, if so it may be called, isa deep
gorge, open at the North and Kast, forming a kind of elbow ; the bottom of it,
as ascertained by the barometer, ¥rtt.s 2,783 ft. below the .summit peak. Although
its .'•ides are sleep, yet a descent is practicable at aliiu)st any part of it. Tlie
inside of the crater was entirely bare of vegetation, and from its bottom arose
some large hills of scoria and sand. Some of the latter are of an ochrc-rcd
colour at the summit, with small craters in the centre. All bori' the aj)pearanee
of volcanic action, but the natives have no tradition of an eruption."

The isthmus is, as before stated, very low, and con?<ist8 of sand constantly
shifting, and thrown up into "dunes.'' It is too dry f^r cullivatiuii, and is
about :J<i by 15 miles in extent. For nine months of the year it is u tine gru/.ing
country, and feeds large herds of cattle.

Kast Maui, though mountainous, ha.s most cultivated land, a'ul the rich vol-
canic soil of the Kula District on the .S.W. side of the island raises abuntl.iut
crops of potatoes, which are sent to supply the whalers and other ships. Wheat
and other grain is also cultivated, and increasing. Muui is also the principal
island for the growth of sugar.

The South point of .Maui, Cope Kahiki, or Ilanamanioa, is formed by rugged,
cragffv rocks, and the sea breaks at a little di»l;uiee to the N.W. of it. The
edge of this bank i»< very iteep-to, suddenly shoaling from no bottom with 80
fathoms to 2.0 fathom^, and then to Id fathoms. The South side of the island
terminates iiery abruptly iu the ocean, and, though ruggvd, is verdant uad
fertile.

At 1| mile southward of Kauikt Head, the East extreme of Maui, U AlaU
Jtlet, c\oic to the shore. In 1880, Commander (lurk, H.M..S. Sappho, iiv

MAUI— KAIIULUI HARDOUR-I-AnAINA.

1087

iters And
le luoun-

ch recent
lie foniia-

cli other.
), which,
u!ihri)kon

L KlM. I'll

III rul^e",
extent to
na EeLi,

t may hi*

11. anil the

its widest

ijc cavern.

I. is a ileej)

ittom of it,

Althoii};h

f it. The

ttoni arose

ochrc-rcJ

j)j)ear;uice

constantly
1)11, ;uul if*
ue griuing

e rich vol-

« abunilant

*. Wheat

principal

hy ru;,'^«'(l,
if it. i'lie
n with 80
' the island
I'rdant nad

il. is Aldit

Sappho, iL*-

porlcd that n sunken rock, with about 8 ft. on it at low water, lies with
Kauiki Head bearing N. 32" W., nnd the West extreme of Alau N. 62' W.
A reef extends about half a mile S.E. of Alau, and other patches of 3 to 5
fathoms lie about 2 cables to the South and West.

The North coa.st of Ivist Maui is a succession of deep ravines running up
the mountains, and down them cascades, several hundred feet in height, hut
with little volume of water, are to be seen falling. In this respect it rcscmblea
the windward side of Hawaii. Thia circumstance renders travelling along tha
coast very diflicult.

The Mast end of West Maul is nn abrupt precipice, several hundred feet
hii;h on tlie eo;ist. On the S.K. j)art of it is a female seminary, of sonic
colebiily, called U'ailu/iu. It is an extensive range of coral and adobe build-
ings in a flourishing village, and is one of the best organised establishments ia
the Sandw ieh Islands. We have few nautical particulars of the northern por-
tions of Maui.

Kahnlui Harbour. — About 2i miles south-eastward of Wailuku is Kahului,
and in the neighbourhood of both these places are some large sugar planta-
tions, 'riicre is II railway between '^\ ailiiku ami Kahului, and another lino
extends 7 or S miles eastward from Kahului to the large Haiku plantations.

Kahului Harbour is formed by an opening in the extensive coral reefs which
here line the coast, and is only alioiit a (juarter of a mile wide between the
breakers, afl'ording anchorage in 7 or .S fathoms, within 1 cable to the W.S.W.
of the beacon marking the eastern reef, and about 3 cables offshore. There is
a wharf and custom-house here, and a pier is being built over the reef. I'ilota
may be had. Hobron's ilagsUfF, on the Ivist point of the harbour, is in lat.
20" .VI' I.'j N., long. 1.3G 2' VJ' W. Il is high water, on full and change, at
ll*" lO"'; springs rise 3 to 1 ft.

Lahaina, on the S.W. side of West Maui, was for a considerable time the
residence of the king. After Kamehameha had comiucrcd the group in 179.3,
the year after \uncouver's visit, he removed the seat of government to Hono-
lulu, Oahu ; out his successor fovmd this too troublesome a site from the im-
portunities and assumptions of the w hite residents and white visitors. Lahaina
was therefore selected as the most central [)ositiou of the archipelago. The first
luissionaries were planted hero in Ma\, 1M2;J.

The town of I.ahaina is built along the beach for a distance of three-quarters
of a mile ; it is jirineipally composed of grass houses, and has one principal
street, with a few others running at right angles. After the governor's (or
king's) palace the fort is the most prominent object ; its form is quadran'^ular,
the longest side facing the sea ; it is of little account, however, as a defence,
serving chiefly to confine unruly >.ubject« and sailors in. The area within ia
about an acre, and the walls are 20 ft. high. According to the observations of
the United Silalea' E.\ploring lixpcdition, it is in lat. 20 ol i>0',loug. 166' 41',

. hi

1088

THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.

I tit

The tide horc J« irrogiilar. beln^ somcwlmt dcpondcnt on the winds ; it luns to
the N.W. generally, sixteen hours out of the twenty-four.

The Bcminnry of Lahninaluna is the most remarkable building to bo lecn as
the bay is nj)pronchod. It stands on the side of the mountain behind the town,
and 2 miles from it. It was founded in IS.'il, for instructing school-te.achers.
An rxecUent chart of the iSandwieh Tsliinds was engraved, on small pieces of
copper taken from a wreck, at this cstabli^hmeut, a singular production fur this
remote sjiot.

Lahaina is in some point.s n preferable place to TTonolulu for refreshment;
more order reigns here than in most places in the I'aeific ; and the absence of
foreigners and their attendant grog-shops, causes less temptation to be thrown
in the way of crews ashore. I'rovisions, especially j)otalocH, are abundant. In
the neighbourhood is one of the best sugar plantations in the islands, but rain
falls so seldom that every acre has to be irrigated.

Lahaina was a favourite recruiting place for the whale sliips, and conse-
quently the j)roducts of the other islands were brought here, and everything
may be got here except taro. The fruits arc excellent. 'I'liere are several
Kuropean residents and traders. The island seems to bo rising as the beach id
extending, having advanced at least 20 ft. since lb55.

Light. — \ fiifd briyht light, visible 6 miles, is shown on the bench.

As the shoals on the N.W. side of Maui extend a considerable distance from
the shore, vessels bound for T-ahaina roadstead should not approach the land
to the northward of it nearer than 3 miles until tlie lightliouse bears N.l'!. J N.,
when a good berth will be found in 10 to 15 fathoms, sand, with the lighthouse
on that bearing. Two lights horizontal, obout 1 ft. apart, are exhibited from
the lighthouse, but they cannot be distinguished m two separate lights until
within IJ mile of tlie ancliorage. The landingiilace is at a snuill jiicr ex-
tending from the lighthouse, and protected by a breakwater. — Lieut. ChilJ,
JJ..M.S. PetfTfl 1S7.5.

Notwithstanding that the anehornge on this side of ^faui is well sheltered,
Vancouver considered that the bottom was only a slight covering of sand over
a bed of hard coral. The lead does not discover thi.s, but on anchoring the
decritfulness of tin- bottom is manifest. The roadstead of I.ahaina is onlv an
open one ; the shores are bounded by a reef, with only one Landing for boats.
The soum'ings decrease regularly to Ti fathoms close to the reef, extending in
general about one-fourth of a mile from the brnch. Tne Wtst extremity of
Maui forms, with the West point of the ro.ndstead bearing N. 11 W. ond
S. 1 l^ Iv, 3 miles asunder, an excellent litilc bay. The North point is formed
b^ a round hill close to the water side.

The southern side of West Maui has a forbidding aspect ; the shores, how-
ever, are not so 8t«ep and rocky as elsewhere, and have generally a sandy beach.
There is a roadsU-ad here, called by Vancouver Paloa, which is rejiresented
as a good anchorage, and may be easily found by attending to the following

MAUI— LATIAINA- MAKKNA.

1080

description : —Tho Inrgc bay, formed by tlic two peninsulas ond the snndy
islhmu», has its western side formed by high rocky precipices, that rise per-
pendicularly from tile sea. To the westward of these precipices tho coast is
chit'fly composed of sandy boaclies, and the mountains, at some distance from
thf shore, form two rcmiukabli' valleys, Kej)araled from each other by a high
riij;'j;rd mount lin, htxMiiingly di'liitliod from tlic rr.st, and aiiproaclun;,' nearer
to the boaeh than those to the right and left of it. The anchorage at I'atoa
is abreabt of the easternmost of these valleys, which appeared fruitful and well
cultivated.

The western side of this large bay f Ktuiudaea Hay J is formed by rocky
cliffs and precipices ; its oppo'Nite shore is about 4 miles distant ; the soundings
on the eastern side are regular, but very rock\-. Nearly in the middle of its
western side is a village, called Mackcrrey by Vancouver, off which there is
anchorage in 7 fathoms, a little more than a ([uarter of a mile off shore, bottom
of sand and broken cor;.l. It is only open to about two points to the S.W,,
but there is not much wind from that ([uarter ; one great inconvcnionco
attending the anchoring in any p;ut of this bay is the violent scjualls which
blow over the isthmus. These gusts, or rather gales of wind, blow constantly
when tilt" trade wind blows fresh at sea, and especially when it is most from
the northern (piarter. At these times it ]>revents any communication with the
hliore, and this is the more serious, as the holding-grouiul is triaehcrous.

Kamalaea l!ay is the seaport for the towns of Wailuku and Waikiipu, dis-
tant and 4 miles respectively from th? landing-place, which is at a pier in
the northern part of the bay, the ehannel leading to the landing-place being
about '20 yards wide, betwe<.'n two coral reefs. The anchorage is in the N.K.
j);irt of the bay, in l.'i to K fathoms, sandy bottom; a spar buoy is moored in
I' fathoms near this anchorage, and should be kejit well on the starboard bow
on entering the bay. II. M.S. Pelerrl anchored in 'J fathoms with the ])ier-head
bearing N. by W. I W. ; tho spar buoy, N. by K. 4' K. ; and the West point
of the bay, S.W. by W. j W.— Lieut. Child.

Makena, or Makee's Landimj, a small indentation near the South extreme
of Muni, derives its name from a j)lanter, whose e.state is situated about o niilcs
Kast of the laiuling-placc. It may be recognised from seaward by liound Hill,
500 ft. high, with a flagstaff on its summit, situated on a point about a milo
South of the landing ; on a nearer approach the stone church, uud several
houses near the landing, will le seen.

The anelunage is in 10 to 12 fathoms, sand, about ?> cables from the landing,
place, with Hound Hill flagstaff bearing S. by W. ? \\\ ; the Landmg-shed ou
the beach, K. by N. I \. ; and tho North extremes of Molokini Islet and
Kahulaui Island in line, W. by S. I S. ; the depths gradually decreasing to 3
fathoms near the shore. Off tho landing-jilace are two mooring buo^s for the
trading schooners, lying in J and » fathoms. This anchorage is exposeil to the
Aof.'A I'lici/ic. z

1 1

1090

THK RANDWICII ISLANDS.

beary squalli which oocniionallj- blow over tlia low i«lhmu« near tho ecjjUo of
Maui ; nrnl landing in ships' boiiOt in at tiinon imprncticnblp.

AceoriKng to Lieut, (.'lapp, ILM.S. ifrout, the North point of the roadstead
is in lot. 20' 39' N.. long. l.')(')° 'JH W. It iti high water, on full uud change,
nt about 1'' ; spring* lisc about .') ft.

Aniitlicr anclioriiig-placc will be found near the S.W. point of Eii«t Mnui, a
little to the southward of the remarkable Hound Hill on a handy beach, pro-
jecting its rocky ba.se into the sea. I-'roni the appinianca uf iut summit it was
culled Volcano Hill; it lie* N. 20° W., about .'J niilcH from the South point of
Maui, and directly opposite the island of Molokiui. The soundings ure regular,
from 7 tu 1 '> and 23 fathoms. Th« bcuch appears cuuvcuicnt fur lauding on,
but there is no water.

MOLOKINI, Moroiint, or Morrotinnre, is a barren rock, lying in Alala-
Itiki Channtl, which Hcparates l"-ii.>.t Maui fiom Kahulaui. It is high, or it
would be dangerous to shipping. It is only visilid by llsheipicn, who dry their
nets en its barren surface.

KAHULAUI / Ka/ioolaur, Tahaurauf, Tnhnoroua, or KiuloolawfJ, lies .')J
miles oH'lhc .s.W. jxiint of .Maui, and fron> its shape and a])pearance seems as
if it once formed a j)art of that island, and had been detached by some convul-
bion. It is low, and almost desliliite of ( very Uiiid of viidurc or shrub, e\-
cej)ting a species of course grass. There ure no evidences of active volcanio
agency.

It is 12J miles long. N.lv by N. and .^'.W. by S., and o miles wide. It is
only inhabited at times by a few poor fishermen, and was used as a place of
exile ; it is now chiefly useful as a shcej) pasture. The whole South part is
covered with a light soil, consisting of decom[)osed lava, and destitute of vege-
tation. On the North side there is a better soil, cajiable in sonic pluces of
vegetation, and here there arc one or two houses. Olf the West point of the
island, fi'/zc Kfulnikuhiki, is a detached shual, seen by Cook on his discovery
of the island, February 21, 177',». It lies \\ mile off the point, and has '.( ft.
water on it. Vessels may pass safely within '2 miles of the point, but it will be
much better not to apj)roach within 3 miles. This shoal is the ouc of the very
few hidden from the navigator around the Sandwich Islands.

LANAI I r Uanai lies 7 miles to the West of West Maui, the channel be-
tween being named Auau, and It') miles to the N.W. of Kahulaui, the space
between being called Ktalnihahihi Channel. I.aiiai is a dome-shaped island,
IG miles in length, K.S.K. and W.N.W., and \ to 10 miles in width, higher
than Kahulaui, but neither so high nor broken as any of the other islands, iu
greatest altitude being about .'?,OtiU ft. The greater porticm i;f it is barren, and
the island in general sutFers from the long droughts whieli frecpiently prevail;
the ravines and glens, notwitlist;uuling, are filled with thicketa of small trees,
which serve useful building purposes to the natives of Maui. Like the rest of
the group, it is volcanic j the soil is hollow, und by no means fertile ; the shores

irnT.OKAr— KAT'NAKAKAT.

1091

1 CCDUo of

rondnt^ad
id chan);e,

lat Mn\ii, a
irnch, pro-
lunit il was
til point of
irc regular,
audiiig on,

5 in Alala-
hi^lJ. <'«■ it
iio dry thfir

vfj, lies ft J
cc seems nti
ome couvul-
r shrub, v\-
ive vulcauio

wide. It is

ks a place of

ulli part is*

lie of \i%Q-

nv places of

)oint of the

is di.scdVi'ry

iiul \\M '.t ft.

ut it will bo

of lUc very

channel be-
i, the space
ia})cd isluud,
ridth, higher
er islands, it:*
,a barren, and
'utly prevail ;
f aruall trees,
kc the rest of
e ; the shorei

abound with Nhell-fish, mcdiidir, nnd cuttle-fish. The inhnbitnnts nro about
400 in number, nnd numerous shcep are kept on tho island. The country to
Ihi- South is hif^h and crnpfty ; it appears to have been frecpicntiy rent, lorfje
fissures beinif apparent on its sides. Thu other pnrt« of the island have a better
aspi I't.

MULOKAI or Moro/oi lies 7 miles North of T.anai, the channel between
b«'in^ named I'ailolo. It is a lonj;, irrej^uiar island, apparently I'ormed by a
chain of volcanic mountains, .'1,'i miles in length, K. by N. and W. by S., and
only 2 J to ',i miles broad. The mountains nre nearly Cfpinl in elevation to those
of Maui, and are broken by numerous deep ravines and water-courses, thesitles
of which are froiuently clothed with verdure, and ornamented with shrubs and
trees. There is but little level Innd in Molokai, and consequently but few
plantatitins ; several spots, however, are fertile, and repay the toil of their
cultivators.

One-third of the island to the West is a barren waste, and has but few in-
habitants. The remainder, to the Hast, is almost one entire mountain, rising
gradually from the South to tho heiglit of 2,5()() ft. ; while to the North it is
a. most perpendicular. On the .South side there is a narrow strip of land, not
exeeeiiiir.; niie-fouith of a mile wiile, the soil of which is very rich, and which
contains the greater part of the poDuIation. I'he .soil here, however, is too dry
for cultivation, which is carried on in the uplands. The people are very poor,
nnd ill-provided with necessaries. In 18;}2 their number was ti.OOO ; in 18 10
only 5,000, nnd this was reduced to less than 2,000 in losi ; at the lirst-nanied
period it was first occupied as a missionary station.

Tliero aie several small harbours within the reef on the SoiftlT side, near
Kaliiaa/ia, the missionary station, which are eajiable of sheltering vessels of
CO to 80 tons. The follow ing particulars conceruiug Kuunakakui and Kalanoa
are by l.ieul. Child, II. .M.S. J'etrrr/, 18To.

Kaunakakai is situated about tiie t'cntre of the .'-outhcrn side nf Molokai,
and t'loni it the West extreme ol' Lauai bears South. IKro there is nn outer
ami inner anchorage; the former is not good, owing to the unevenness of the
bottom, and the latter affords but a limited space; there is said to be not less
tlum l fathoms over the bar leading to the inner anchorage, and .0 to 7 fathoms
•within. Two posts on tiie shore form a leading mark, ami a red />uoi/ is moored
in o fathoms within the bar, for the mail steamer. Vessels ajiproaehing should
bring the posts in line, and anclior in 10 to 13 fathoms, rock nnd sand; this
mark also leads in niid-chamiel to the inner anchorngc. On each post is u
lantern, from which lights arc exhibited when the mail ste.inicr is expected.

(iuail and pheasants are to be shot (^with permission from the Ciovernment
at Honolulu), but no other supplies can be obtained here.

The South coast of Molokai should not be approached at night without local
knowledge, as the reef which fringes the South shore of the island is stcep-to,
and extends seaward in some places to a distance of 3 miles.

i *

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IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-S)

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Photographic

Sdences
Corporation

33 Wci^l MAIN STREET

WEBSTER, N.Y. MSEC

(716) 873-4S03

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^■^"""^""fOMMin!

1002

THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.

I' '•

Kalaaao Is situated near tho centre or the North const of MoloVni. The an-
chnrn|;e is to the Houthwnrd of n long, low point, extending from the foot of
two steep remarkable mountains ; it cannot, however, l>o considered safe, being
exposed U the prevailing trade wind, and the heavy swell which occasionally
sets in. Tho best anchorage is in 13 fathoms, sand, with the church bearing
E. i N., find the North point N. | E. A red huoy for the mail steamer is
moored i:i l:' fathoms, with the church l>carin!^ East. Landing ut Kalauao,
always ditlicult. is at times dangerous, and no supplies can be obtained. This
is the port for communication with the Icikt 8«tt!en>ent, p.oplo oiiiicted with
that diticaso binng sent here from the other islands for isolation.

Sir Edward Ik-icher, H.N., says : — Passing the Kustrndof Maui, and coming
suddenly on Molokai, the view is very singul;»r ; four exactly parallel outlines
of picturcMpie ami lofty cliifs appear almost a visual deception, or the elTcct of
quadruple rcfractiun ; but on advancing it will prove f" bo a reality ; their
height is about lOit ft., and varying but slightly fiuiutho |)erpeudieular. Here,
also, as on Maui, several very pretty but loftier cascade; embellish the scenery,
wliicli. attired in nature's clothing only, is rich in colours.

The I'.asl j»oiiit of the island is ealltd Jlaldira J'oinl ; and at)Out three-
quarters of a mile otf its Soutii side is a small, barren, rocky islet, called
Mokuo Niki, or Moduenete. Off the N.W. end of the island a small bay was
observed by Cook ; but it was found by Vancouver that the space indicated
was nearly a straight shore, composts! alternately of riigged rocks and sandy
beaches. He anchored in \9 fathoms, within about a mile of the breakers, on
a tine sjimly bottom; the NN'est point nf ihe island bore South by compass,
distant I miles, k' .1 tho N.W. point N. '2Ci' K., about the same distance. This
w.-»s as close as safety would allow, but it is entirely exposed to the North and
N.W. wincb, which frequently blow with great violence, and to tho very boa^*)'
roll of the sea.

Light.— On Lae o l;a Laau Point, tho westcni point of Molokni, is n white
lighthouse, showing nfxed hriijht light, elevated iU ft., and visible 11 miles.
L.it. -IV G N., long, l.')?' I'J W.

OAHTJ, "r \Vi>ah(>i>, the next island in succcfwion, is divided from Moinkal
by haiui ( hnnnel, '21 miles in width. It may be looked on as the principal
of the group, as regards mnritime affairs, inasmuch as it contains the j)ort
chiefly frcquenteil by the shipping of the North I*acific. 'Ilie island is 40
miles long, W. by N. } N. and K. by S. ^ S., by '2\ miles in greatest breadth.
Like the re?st of the islands, it is of volcanic formation ; Captain Cook only saw
the North or tnniinanl side. and. judging from tliis alone, it appeared to him
to be by far the finest island of the grotip. " Nothing oould exceed the ver-
dure of the hills, the variety of wood and lawn, and rich cultivated valleys,
which the whole face of the country ilisplnyed." A different conclusion was
arrived at by Capt. Wilkes, who came tirsi u]m)ii th« lee sidA '• The appear-

OAHU.

1003

aaco of Ouhu is hy no tnennH invitiuK ; it han a greater rcsomhiancc to tliu
desert ccaHt of IVtu than any other of the Polynesian islands wu had visited,
and has as little nppciiranco of cultivation. The country, at fint sight, would
be tormed barren and rooky." There could not be a better example of per-
fectly oppoHite characters applied to the Name place than tluN, nor a better evi-
dence of thu great variation <u dinir.te which may occur within a very short
disUmce. Mut whatever may be 'laid of the uuprontising appearance of its
southern si'to, there is no doubt that it is the garden of the Sandwich Islund-i.

Tho KnKt end of the island is '.'ailed Cape Muktipua. There ore numerous
caves here, situated in a bluH' of .IDO ft. elevation, tlicir mouths at about two-
thirds the height. They are the effect of volcanic action, ami have been, and
arc still sometimes used as burial-places. At 'J miles north-westward of this
poiiit is the peninsula of Mokapu, forming the harbour of ll'iiialai, the en-
trance of which has only '.) ft. water, a depth only fitting for the iHliuid vessels.
Opposite to it iiilond is h'anentr, the mission station for the North side of the
island, in the district of Tali Kulau. This (li^trict contains about -I,.'jU() in-
habitants, and the productions are similar to the i>iand generally. Sugar ami
coffee are grown. There is a belt of aroblu land, only a few feet above the
sen, extending along this district, which increases in breadth to the weittward.
This narrow strip of land, varying from half a mile to '2 miles in width towards
the North end, is called the Kulauloa district. It is bounded by the mountain
chain of Kimohnunui, and from its position it receives abundance of rain for
agricultural purposes. There are several small streams, which will drive the
machinery for sugar-mills. The scenery of this part is most enchanting for
beauty, boldness, and variety ; Ktupendous precipices, rising some ;2,0U0 or
J,()UU ft., witii numerous small (Streams gushing down their sides.

The district of Waiahia stretches from Kitcmi Point, the most westerly enpe
of Oaliu, to Waiiuca, in tlie district of Kulauloa, on the N.K., ami to Waiaii.ie,
on the S.W., a distance along the coast of above 20 miles. Within this dis-
trict are a few bays for vessels not exceeding !.'''> tons burthen; the best of
these is Kawniloa. Those to the N.lv arc Wainica, Hnuln, Kakaua, Moluilui,
niid Makua. I'art of this ilistriel producer abundantly, being cultivated by
Irrigation. Five considerable streams water it from the Kouahaunui range,
passing down the fertile valleys.

As just ^tatcd, the sugar-cane has been Lnorensingly cultivated. The follow-
iug notes were made on a visit to the plantations in isilj :— .

I'assing by the two plantations in Nuuanu Valley, located within sjgV of
ITonolulu, we reached the /n«/i ^or cliff) over a good dry road, which here is
seldom found in winter, and encountering a cool bracing North wind, which
came rushing ihrougli the narrow gap and down the valley as if it had been
caged up nn hour or two by the encircling mountains. What a scene opens
here to the tia\cller, us he commences the descent ol the precipice - a jiluia 'ii

If: I

1091

THR SAXDWICII ISLANDS.

miles long, intcrscctctl with riil|*C!i of low hilU, and hrmmed in on tho mauka
side by bold pnlimdeji, in nomc places 2,000 (i. perpendicular.

Once down the pali, the trnvrllor finds himself in Ivoolau, which embmeen
all the windward oidc nf tins island, Kn»t of the nummit ridge, and extendiii;;
from Waimannlo at the South to ^^ aimea at the North, a tract about <5() niile«
in length, and varying from 1 to ,5 milcH in width. All this dintrictof Koolau
id oxpoRcd to fretiucnt xhower*, and in intersected with numerous small streams,
which tend to make it raluablc for agriculture and pasturage.

Hetween the foot of the pali and the Protectant church at Kantoht lies the
sugar estate of the Uuccn Dowager Knlama. Just beyond Kancohc in a tract
of 3,000 acres, called Ilteia, where the Roman Catholic church is lo€atc<i,
which is probably well calculated for a sugar plantation.

Beyond is the h'aalara plantation, extending from the sea back to the cen-
tral mountain range. The estate comprises some 2,000 acres, HOO acres of it
being suitable for cane. At ;$ or 1 miles beyond Kaalaea wc conic to the
Kuoloa estnto, now called the " Oahu I'lantationi" including Kaawa, it. con-
sists of about -I.OiiO acres.

Like muih of tho i.ind on this side of Oohu, the cane-fields here consist of
rich bottom-land, lying just above the level of high tide. So near the Burfacc
is the water, that tho roots of tlie caiie find moisture all tho year round, re-
ducing the risk of drought very much. The soil, like that of I^haina, Waikapu,
and Watluku, receives its deposits of rich alluvium from the utountains in the
rear.

Waimea Bay, or H'hymra as Captain K<ng calls it, was visited by the
Iif$oiulion and lh$cuvtry in February, 177'J ; they anchored in l.'i fatli >ms,
sandy bottom, the extreme points of the bay bearing S.W. by \V. \ \\ . nnil
N.K. by K. I E., off the mouth of a fine rircr, running through a deep valley.
Watering here, however, could not be well efTcctcd on account of a reef which
strelthes along shore to the distance of half u mile.

At h'audiloa the coast forms a small bay, and has a dreary a<ipcct on tiiht
landing. The soil is sandy and poor, and the pcoi)le had a s<{ualid and niisor-
ablc appearance, but at a short distince inland a great and pleating change is
seen. It was near here that Mr. Gooch, the astronomer to Vancouver's expe-
dition, and Lieut. Hergest, were killed by the natives.

Kaena Point is the western cape of Ouhu, and from hence the western co.ist
of Oahu trends S.K. ) S., '20 miles, to Laeloa or Ihtrher Point, the S.W. point.
It is composed principally of steep, craggy mountains, some descending ab-
ruptly into the sen, others terminating at a small distance from it, whence a
low border of land extends to the sea-shore, formed by sandy benches, chiefly
bounded by rocks, over which the surf beats with great violence. Vancouver
says, nearly in the middle of this side of the island is the only Tillage he had
seen westward of Opooroah (the Pearl UgoonV In its neighbourhood the bases
of the mountains retire farther from the shore, and a narrow fertile valley

to mauka

cmbrncw
cxtiMuliti'^
t50 mileit
of Koolnu
11 atrcams,

h» lle« the

iM a tract

U located,

the ccn-
ncie« of it
oinc to the
w«, it cou-

> consist of
tlic Burface
rounil, ro-
1, Winkupu.
aint iu the

itcd by the
13 fatli oinu.
■. J W. niul
iliop valley.

1 reef whieh

K'Ct on fllht

il iintl niiser-
ig change is
)uvcr'8 cxpc-

ivcstom coast
D S.W. piiint.
sccndmg nb-
it, whcneo a
iches, chiefly
Vancouver
iUago he had
lood the boaea
fertile valley

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HONOLULU HARB*

IImII .« S. » Mil>

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OAIIU— HONOLULU.

10U6

tHndi through the hills. Tho shore hero forma a small sandy bay. On its
South side, between two high rocky precipices, in a grovo of cocoa-nut and
other trees, stands the villiigc ; and in the centre of tho bay, about a mile to
the North of tlio village, i.t a high rock, remarkable for its projecting from a
Bundy beach. At o distance it appenri to be dctucheil from tlie land. Uctwcea
this and tlic high rocky i)o...t to the South of tliu village is a Hmuil bank «)f
8o\indings, htretchiiig some distuucf into the sea. Tlic South side of this bank
haH irregular rocky uouiidings, from '.ii to H fathoms i to tho North of it tho
edge is very obrupt.

The dibtrict cf Ku-a occupies the S.W. portion of the island, extending cast-
ward to within 7 miles of Honolulu, and 20 miles along the sea-shore. Unlike
others on this side of the inland, it is well watered by copious ond excellent
8j)rings, the streams from which are Kuflicicnt for working sugar-mills. This
iit the best part of Oahu for raising cattle and sheep, which ore seen here in
greater nun>bers than elsewhere.

The Pearl Lochs, o: Prarl Hiver Harbour, lies on the Simth side of tho
island, tlie entraner being about S miles K.N.K. of Laeloa Point. It i.s an
extensivi- inlet of the f.ea, into wliieh the Uiver Kwu and several other streams
empty themselves. It derives its name from the fact of llie pearl-oyster lieirig
found in it; it is not met with elsewhere in the Sandwich Islands. Tlie inlet
has somewhat the appearance of a iogoon wbicli has been partially tilled uj) by
alluvial deposits, and affords abundance of excellent fish. The depth of water
in tl>e mouth is only 11 ft- ; but after passing lliis coral bar, which is 400 ft.
wide, the depth of water becomes ample for large ships, and the basin is suffi-
ciently extensive to accommodate any number. If the bar were partially re-
moved, which might be effected, it would afford the best and most capacious
harbour in the Tacific. .\t pre»e!»t there is little necessity for this, as the neigh-
bouring port of Honolulu is ample for all the present rc(purement8.

HONOLULU is the capital and principal port of the kingdom of Hawaii,
and indeed of this part of the Pacific Ocean. It is not very many years sinco
it wos first frefjuented by Europeans, but Vancouver passed it without much
notice, in March, 17l>3, such is its opparent insignificance from the entrance.
Ifc was afterwards informed by Mr. brown, of tho ship Butteruorth, of iia ex-
cellence, ond his tender, tho Jackall, first entered it in 17y4. Mr. Brown gavo
it the name of Fair Haven. Vancouver calls it Honootwono.

Sinco tho periods above -aamed it has made a wonderful change in circum-
Btances, and few ploces in the world now have such a Tariety of popuktion and
manners as is to be seen here.

As the whaling fleet became more numerous, wealth was gradually brought
here, as it was the principal resort of the ships that cumo to refit. The poi)u-
lation gradually iucreased, and instead of a town of grass huts, with only one
house that had a chimney in it in 1827, when Capt. Ueechey came here, it is
now a hirge town of about 15,000 iohabitaata. The situation being good, it

ill

loac

Tlir, SANDWICFI ISLANDS.

WAS orrntunlly ostnMiiihcd tin the capitnl nf tbo Hawaiian kingdom, tho !«•!•
dcncc of the confluU of fort'imi courts, and ihr cliicf port in the best channel
of mtcrcourno between the eautern coa«U< of the old, and the western coasts of
the n(W worUl. It hiix a fine cnpacinu'* liarboiir, furmed by the eoral reef,
enpable of acromiuodatin); '.M)'i vesxeln at a time, and is perfectly cafe in all
weathern. A small steam ve»^eI runs periodically bilween Honolulu and
Hawaii, and there are several ^rhooners constantly trading to and from the
various islands. , In mail-steamers between San Kranei.sen and New Zealand
call liere twice a niv)Utli, and anollior Unc of sU'Mucrs run» betwecu Soii Fran-
cisco and Honolulu, twice a month.

The central part of the city now consists of regularly laid out streets, on
rither side of whieh stand houses and warehouses, ci>nstruclcd after the
Kuropean style, generally painted, and frecjuently placed within spacious en-
closures with gardens, while its outer j)ortions are still chictly composed of
grass huts mhalnii d by the nativt s. IWsides these, there are the king's palace,
a fort, numerous churclies and chapels, jniblie ofhces, a custom-liousc ami a
sailors' hiune : also ample wharves, foundries, work-shops, and sliip-yards to
meet ony emergency that may arise, even to making a steam-ship if ordered,
but the charges are somewhat expensive, labour being very dear. In l^HJ, a
marine railway was conipKted, eaj)able of taking up a vessi 1 of 1,700 tons,
when light. On the NVcbt side uf tUu hurbuur U a Uuarautinc iiusj)itul, built
on reclaimed ground.

Supplies of cvrry kind, including ficsh nnd salt meat, may be obtained here,
and the prices are moderate. I'.xceilent wattr is eariiiil down frmn the .N'uuanu
N'alky, in iron pipi s. t-- siij)ply the city and the shipping. Auslruliau cuul cusla
about 10 dollars per ton.

In IHsl, •>:<H merchant vessels, with a total tonnage of 1.'jO,.'141, entered the
port, of which 1^>1, with a tonnage of 10J,308, belonged to the I'nited Suites.
Ii. tlie same year 1'.* whaling vessels, with a total tonnage of <i,(»s;<, called here.

Tlie aspect of the country around Honolulu, as seen from the roails, is barren,
the jdain on wliidi the town stands being destitute of verdure. This plain ex-
tends both Kast and West from the town, while behind it the land ri.ses gra.
dually towards the Nuuanu valley. Several erater-shaj)ed hills are in sight,
ooe of which, Puunina, called by the foreign re^ideula the /*m/icA y^u7, standa
out in bold relief on one side of the valley.

The valley of Xitudnu is formctl by a break in the central volcanic ridges of
Oahu ; is a»ccmU gradually from behind the town, and is about 7 miles long,
by half a mile wide at lUs entrance. It contraeU» until it reaches the northern
Bide of the ridge, when it suddenly terminates in a deep precipice of I,lOU ft.,
colled the I'uli. Here the trach- wind rushes violently through between two
high peaks above 1,. ')(•<) It. in height, while their tops condense the clouds,
whose waters arc descending constantly in Miiall silver rills, that leaj» from
rock to ruck un all sides, unitu in the middle of the v;illey, and form a large

m. Oio rcii-
jc»l channel
L'rn consU of
|,c coral reef,
y gnfc in nl^
Unujlulu :»n<l

^cw Zri«l;u»<l

-.ut ultPPt*' on

ctctl "fur ^^»°
n »i)ncii>u» cn-

ly coinpo*"-'^^ "'
e kinK"» pn^uce,
„n.hoviso antl a

ship if orilcrcil,

iar. In ^^^'' *
I of I, TOO tons,
ic llo^♦i'itul, built

\,c obtatncil here,
fr..m the Nuuanu

BiiuUuu cyal coslfl

.»,:Ml. cntcreil the
the VniU-^^ f^Wtcs.
,,,(.k;\. called hero.

lie roads, is barren,
re. This r^'»i" •^''*

ll>c l;nul vises gra.

hilU are in si-^Wt,
I'unch JioHl,6Utt'ia

»\ volcanic ridges of

,l,„ul 7 n>ile^ long.
i;a\ics the northern

,,,ij,lccofl.lO<'f^-.
I,,„^,.^U between two
condense the clouds.
^,,U, thrvt h-ap fi-'>'"
,, and fnin a lai^e

-if

mm'mmmmmmmmmiiiBtisii^sssssssi

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[:!■

OAIIT'— nnxOLULlT.

l(l!»7

brook, whii'h U ngalii diNtributi-il by the iiiitivi'it to i^ivi- fcililitv iinil lu\iiriniico
to the vtili' below.

One of the most conspiomiis |)oii\t« on tlio South nido of Ouhu is I.nthi or
Diamond Hill, It lioft about -li inilvs S.K. )iy E. of Honolulu, nnd forms A
very pictun>H(|ue objiTt from tbi* linrlwur It in nn extinct volcnnie crntcr, thi*
Inrgpitt conKt crater on tlie iHJiinil, and huH iti« Inttertuinte from the ciicutnMtnnco
of bright crA'ittnlN rrm>iiiblin(; the diamond being found (m itit ttides. I tJi highest
p«)int reachcft an altitude of 7(')1 ft.

The mouth of the harbour is formed by nn inlet throupli a eoml reef, pomi-
bly kept open by the fresh-water streant flowing? through the town ; this bos
been nuppoMed to be filling tip the harbour nnd its entrance with alluvia! de-
jMmit, as a considerable diminution in the depth in obnerved ninee the earlier
explorations. This is more probably owitig to an entire upheaving of the coast,
as in evitlenced eUewhere in the diminution of watvr on rrx-ky shelves off the
cooHt atul the markft on the coast itself. It is true that this might be remediid
without great trouble, by deepening the channel or by tloing the same to the
more exten.MVC harbour of the Pearl Liigooiis t(» the Mestwjiiil.

Lights. — \ Jixril hii'/hl light is cxliibitfd from a lighthouse erected on the
inner edge of the western reef, at half a mile within the entrance of the
channel into Ibmolulu Harbour. It is elevated 2'') ft. above the sea, and is
vihible '.I miles sc.iward In twern S.K. by K. and West. From .he lighthouse
the Spar or l'\irway buoy bears S. by W., TiJ cables; I>ian>oiid Toiiil,
S.K. by K. ; Murber Point, W. \ S. ; and the eastern corner of the (Custom-
house, N. by K. i K., '1\ cables. Ne.ir to this corner of tlie Custom-house,
from a tower, a fisfd yrem light is exhibited, elevated "JM ft. above the sea,
and visible '-' or 3 miles. The green light is in lat. 'Jl' IH »> N., long.
167 6'2 1(1 NV.

Directions. — Vessels np]»rooebing at night should bring the leading lights in
line, bearing N. by K. J Iv, and should also be most attentive to \\\v soundings,
obtaining bottom under 10 fathoms, and not coming into less than \2 fathoms
before anchoring.

To enter the h.irbour. bring the lighthouses or the two lights in a line, nnd
keep them so until within 2 to 3 cables of the lighthouse on the reef, then
steer to the eastward, to avoi<l the end of the spit on which the lighthouse is
built, towards the East end of the new wliarf, and wlui\ hnlf-w\v between the
light on the reef and the new wharf, >.teer N. W. to the aneliorat:r inside.

A conspicuous bell huny, painted black and white, with st.itf .iiid cjige, is
moored in \C, fathoms, I cables S.K. by S. J S. fnmi the spar buoy lying on
the Kast side of the entrance of the harbour, and a (juarter of a mile fnnu the
shore reef.

The following directions for the outer anchorage are by !\Ir. H. Thomp'Jon.
mast<r of H.M.S '/'.(Mo/, in .lanuary, Ihl.. : — "Just without the reef, and at
/s'urlA I'uvtjiv. f ^

TTIK SANOWini ISLANDS.
U»0« , , „_ t„ ,hr hnrlM^ur. thoro «• •

.,.coof,ro«nawh.h ^. .u.U Mow "'-"'j';";,^ ,. t,.^ , t

durinii 0»c l>onoa thill i"*- .,,\,W.<t to iin-H"^ "*"' " ,

th. n.nfa..o v.rv uneven. he -^'^^V. U. X ^^^^ ^^^^^^ ^^^ ^ rounatop.Ka

n .w..r the iunrr pnrt of t»u »• '" ^ n,,* h.U

,„n j„,l viM\.\e ox. r tie i ^ ^^^^^^ ^^^^^^^ .^^^^i K- L}

mon nun with the other part or in ^

I.nU .^.».U. .n O-;^'--; ^,, „„,,. „ .. .at... npon U at low

..„ter. «na the oh.nnH . - -"- ,„. ^ ,,,. .ho w.U cou.e off .f

, ,o U. m ahoul I.. f««l'""»'> '"'V r hv S i S. lUc U-U buoy

;?7t:tnrt;:;u-i--^^''^-'"'^^""''^^^^

U m.-.rea near here. ^^^ n,„rn.nff i« the bent tune

^.ouU a U. nece..ry to enter ^^^^^^^ , ,,, .fu-r the tnule w.a
,. U.re are then leaau,, w.> - I - ^ I ^..^^...^^ .,, U.e aul o, .

^ •'--:::::r::i;-M.:^-on.^^

;;:::;:: o;:i:uC to -reef.. V.»a. enter... or U...

„e charKn-a half pih.U.R'- '«»-; „^..„aea. .o thnt ven^el. of «ny

TUe wharf ha. b^en n.ueh -F-^^ *"^ ,„ j,,,,, the a.,,lh over the bar

,, le n.ay h, alon...ae and -I here- n ^^^^ ^ ^ ^^ ^ ^ ^^ ^^^^

. 1 « .ater wa- .ulea to be 21 f t • »"^ ,„,,,„, there can be no

,h h.rbou, ..( Honolulu -» .«"' ^ l^ " « J.„„, .„„„„.. .u,.-,. U..".

: . . >w,.<" •■' '' "^ "" ""■ ""J ';l V -> I-- "•' "" '■•'"•>■ r

,,,.ern ^ae. ana by pae« enei u ^^^^ ontruncc

OAlir HoNoMLr-KAIAr.

KHrj

there i" «
linn water,
1) l)cU«»»«r.

liar i«cu"«»n»
l\irr«-f"»"C,

ctt of win J

i comU n""^
an f».Uown,

imn.l t'>piH'»
N. Tli»»»«»l'

ipon it nt low
un^er "houia
ill coinc off »f
P btitl at»chor-
nrinj; Nl'- by
Ihc beU bui.y

the best tim.\
ibe tin«li' wiiul
li the iu«l "f '*
\,.iaU» ri-iuly I"
HilUout « l'»li>l

t veiweU of *"y
,VU ovi'i ibc Ur
ft., anil ibat i'»-
thcrc can be n.»
.alf-U.lci. Ibil't
than 1« or I'J ft.

rirnrtl "taten ibat
prtaninK ojMTa-

„«u survey. lher«

1 Uaain^t inl*> the
can bvioVH on iW

„ its wrttcru nJi-.

irauco.

,arv.'H bare to moor

.,„^...,i.■nl di^t""""

on the reef, on tlie Wri>l iii(l«' of the harttoiir ; it in ailtimible to 'noor with lli«
VFMi'l'H brad about N I! , uh beuvy H<|uallii bl<iw over the lund from thiit ilirce-
tioii, mill (hiring thu wiiittr niontliH it ii often nervHMnry to ilro|> (in iinrb<»r
UP It r fiMit, BH the wind fiiMiucntly nliiftM t4> the S.W. and blow* itronj;, but
with »ii*!iciriit w.irniiin to prepare for it.

The jmMaj»e through tlie reef into the liarliour, though wrll buoyed nnil
beneonod, in dnnKerou", and ohuuld not bt- utteni|iti-d, even if tiie wind l>e fuir,
XMttiont n thorough kimwleilj^e of the port. From the mitiT unclinrajfc run
nlon^ Khore in nothing 1cm
channel over tin- bar. Wlu-n over thi- bur, stand on betwcin tlie buoyn ami
pile iM'aeon*, — tliu «lepth in the channel bf'iin^ from >'ti to ♦> fathomn. 'I'lii're i»
alway* a heavy nwcII on the bar with southerly windii, niakint; it dangerou*.
Any one iinuncd to the port should always taki* a pilot. The hurbuur atfurd*
nceommodation fur »« many aa '200 vcaaeU at a time.

laeut. Fleet, II M.S. (ianttet, 18H0, ■tatet that ahm^ide tlie coaling wharf,
veiMcU will have near the Huuth end about 4 futhoiui under il.ti keel, 4^
fathoniH on the off nide, niid .'I fathomn close to the wharf; Hlcam-^t mcU draw-
ill); 2'J ft. secure ulun;j;«idu the wharf. Welsh cuhI can be nuiLhuaed fur 1 1^
dollam a tun.

Much of the co-M bnnk« in exposed at low water. In con«eqii>«nce of tho
tea that roll* u^tr the reef, and breaks in 4 or ^ fathoraa wati-r, lioata munt
follu<- he name channel uh large ship*, or in all probability they «dl bo run un
the reefs, or be upset.

There are Mvcral pilots always ready to conduct vesneU into and out of tho
harbour; and tl.ere are aUo steam-tugs fur towage.

'J'iJeK. -It is hi^h water, on full and change, ut 4*' 2.1"", the rise and full
licidH 21 ft. at Hpnn;;^ ; but the tides here iiro much affected by the winds,
^iili'n whether from North or Souths bnnginK high tiiles, and a rise of ;i ft.
>S<iinctimtN the rise in remarkably low, and without uiiy apparent cause i it had
been OS little as (i inches.

The only jilnce remaining to be noticed as nn anchorage is Wnikiii, which
is 'H miles south-eastward of Honolulu. Hetween these tw(» places there is n
vaxt collection of sait-iiit-*. the produce of which is exported to all the countriea
borilering on the North I'licitic. There is anchorage ofl' the village.

Whiitieti- liitij, according to Vancouver, is formed by the land falling a little
back round the S.K. point of «)ahu, and, although open above half the compass
in the southern (piarttTH, it was considered by him to be the best anchoring
pluco in the ulaud, but he did not know uf Honolulu,

KAUAI is called Atooi in Cook's voyage, Atou-ai in Vancouver's, and Aloui
by a third. The name is eoni|)o.>ed uf two words — a Tauai, literally ««</ I'auai.
The meaning of the word tauai is, to light upon, t.r to dry in the sun ; and the
uuiiie, accordiug to the lulo king, was derived from the U.ujr droughta which

3BMH

I ;

1100

TIIK SANDWICH ISLANDS.

Boinrtiinos prcvuiloil, or the larjjc pii-coa of tiinhtT (jcrnNiotinlly washed ou its
Bhorc§ (KIUh). 'llii« isliiml i» inlcrfsling i»« boing the lirst lanil of the K^oup
visitnl liv ('iM>k on their dis •» fry. "<»n Suiidav, Janufirv IK, 177s. ot day-
bnnk, an island ^Oahu) nmde it* a|)|H-arancc', and soon aflor «esaw more land
bt-arinj; Nortli. and i-ntircly dtUidud from the former." On the I'Jth he an-
chored in Waiinea Hny, on the St»uth side of Kauai, and was received by the
a.''Umi8hed natives with profound humility and reverence, a circumxtancu which
has (.inee iH-iri accounted for at* stiitetl in our intnxluctory ob«ervation«.

The islan.l i.s 'JS mileh lonjj. N.K. by K. i E. and S.W. by W. i W , and
abtiut '.'.'i indeii in );reateiit bn>adlh, the channel .H-paratii<g it from ( )ahu being
named Kairie It'afio, t'> I milen broad. Like the rcttt of the archipelago, it i» of
volcanic formation. Its N.K. and N.W. sides arc broken and rugged, but to
the Sonlli it is more even. Tl-e hills heri' rise with n gridiial slope, and at
eoino di^lanee from the ^hore are covered with wood. '1 his is one of Uic best
cultivattnl of the islands, and even when tir^t discovcretl the plantations of tho
nativcfl were manage»l with in.lu!<try and neatnew. The highest jM)int of the
island is called WmalenU or H'uUitilt, and ils height is estimated at .'1,(11)0 ft.;
it is saiil that there is a crater on its suiunut, from which there is u view of
daliu. '.»" miles distimt. to K. by S.

The two extrtMnities of the eastern end of the i.sland lie N. 14 K. and S. 14 W.
'.• miles from each other, and are firmed by low land. The former is n round-
ing point, projecting into the ocean from a very remarkable forki-d hill that is,
ill a great me;isure, dt Uiclii-il from tlie rest oi the coniiei trd nioiintains of iho
island. 'J lie latter extends from a range of low hilU that stretch along the
coast at a small dist^mce from the iteach. The countr\ inland here is most
enchanting and ricli. About ^ miles to the soiith- west ward of the southern
extremity lies Mukanurua or Koloa I'mut, tlieS.Iv point of the island, formed
by a bold, liliilf, barren, hi^h, rocky heailland, falling periK'mlieulatly into the
»ea, having a remarkable ilome-shajH'il moimtJiin a sluirt distance N.W. of it,
nnd a range of hills, with eight crater^, extending to the northward. Hetween
this and the low point is a small cove //'una (uvrj accessible to boats only.
lliis jK)rtion appears to be well watered. .\ heavy s«'a rolls in on this part of
the coast. There are sntne silk jnulberry and sugar pluiiUitiims belonging to
Kuroj)eans. but the gi iter part of the island is given up to cuttle and sheep.

Hawiliwili Harbour, or llulala, K milcB N.K. of Koloa I'oint, is an indenta-
tion in the coast, three-quarters of a mile in extent, Kast and West, and the
same North and South, but it is nearly filled up with reefs and shoalt. The
entrance, in which the depth is ;J to 4 fathoms, passes close to the North t^*-
trance i>oint, a dangerous breaking spit extending nearly across from the
tsouth point. The channel passes westwaril of this spit, and leads to the har-
bour, in which there is a deprh of 2J to 4 fathoms. At the North end of the
bay is a wharf for shipping sugar, rice, \c . but the approach to it is verv
b!ialli)w. The observation spot. 1 cable to the .•>oulhward, is in lat. 'n '>'' OU N ,

KATAI-KALOA HAY-WATMKA 1«AY

1101

icd ou its
the group
«, at day-

more laiul
yih he nn-

ed by the
mice which
onH.

i W , ntul
t);ihu bi'iiiK
lugo, it is i>f

;od, but to

H>o, and ut

of U»c l>ct.t
ition» of iho

[)int of iho
5.000 ft. ;
a view of

indS. H^W.
ei i?* i» rounil-

d hill that i!».
mtaius of the
u\\ alon^ the
, htri' in most
r tho »outhi-n\

island, foniu-tl
•ulurly into the
.f N.W. of »t.
vard. ISctwcen

to bouts only

on thin part of
iui» btlongiiin to
ttlc and (tlutp.
it, !•< an indonta-
[ WoHt, and the
nd ihoaU. The
o the North fc^-

acroM from the
leadi* to the har-
North en«l «>f the
Bch to it in very
lut. '^1 •>' ^^ ^ •

Inn*;. ITiO 27 20' \\. It is high water, ou full and change, at U" 45" ; the rise
in 2i to a ft.

Ilulei;» lliver nin< into the S.W. anpic of the bay. and hero is the villapc of
Niiinmlii, 2 miles northward of which in Lihue, the centre of one uf the largettt
anil oldest sugar districts, the water for irrigation being supplied by a canal 10
miles long. Wailua Hirer. 5 miles norttiword of the harbour, has a depth of
about 20 fitthoniH inside the bar. and is navigable for 5 miles.

Koloa Bay will Im.> recognised hy the town, which has mnny high buildings,
and extends from the beach to a distance of 2 miles up the s1o]>g of the hill,
also by a low point with a sandy patch on its western side, situated between
the town and Koloa Point. From this low (mint a rocky ledge extends out a
short diMtJince, and somewhat protect* the anchorage. A red huoy for the mail
(iteamer is m<K)red in l<i fathoms, and less water will not be obtained until near
the buoy, when a berth will be found in about 1 1 fathoms, sand end shells,
with the western church bearing N. I K. ; the low point. K. J N. ; and the
dome-shaped mountain, N.E. There is a good landing-place in a small cove,
])roteeted by a reef extending about a cable from the shore ; an artificial creek
has been made at the head of this cove with sufficient space for oue boat to
enter. — /iV«4/. Child, 11. M.S. I'ftfrel, 1875.

AlM)ut 2 mile? inland from Koloa is the oldest sugar plantation in the archi-
pelago.

.Miout 7 milix westward of Koloa. and 8 miles to the south-eastward of
Waiinea. is thi- rtlrhiated v;il!i'y of Ilanapepe. wliieli has ap[)aroiilly been
fornu'll hy voicaiiie actioi\. At il.s entrance it is about half a mile wide, and
decreases in wiiitli as it n[)pioaelies the mountains. At its head is a waterfall.

The co.isi must nnw he approached with great caution, as opposite Kona
Teak, oti the W'l st side of the entrance to Ilanapepe Valley, a coral reef com-
.luiices. and here stretches some distance No.iward ; theiiei' it trends aUmg the
S.W. shores of the islaiul a,> f:ir as Point Mana or Kolo, the westernmost point
of Kauai.

Waimea Bay, on the South side. !•* the best nnchoring-place at the island,
except in the months of January and Fihruary, when the tra<le winds are in-
terrupted, and tlie wind blows stronjjly from the S.W., direetlv on shore. At
about a mile West of Waimea is the spot when' Cook's boat first landed on
the di.scovery of the Sandwich Islands, took says : — The road, or anchorin"-
jdace, which we occupied, is on the S.W. side of the island, about G miles from
llie West end, before a village, which has the name of Wyiuoa. As far aa wc
sounded we found that the bank has a fine ^jray sand at the bottom and is free
from rocks, except a little to the eastward of the vilhige, where there spits out
a shoal, on whici are some rocks and breakers, but ihey are not far from the
shore. This road would be entirely sheltered from the trade wind, if the height
of the land over which it blows did not alter its direction, and make it foi'ow
that of the vuu^X ; so that it blows at N.K. on one side of the island, and

i .'3

r 4 :

1102

THE SANDWICH ISI^NDS.

E.S.E. or 8.E. on the other, falling obliquely on tlic ohorc. Tliun the road,
though situated on the lee side of the island, is a little ex])osed to tho trado
wind ; but, notwithsUnding this defect, it is far from being a bad ntntion. and
-nuch superior to those which necessity obliges f\\'\p» daily to use in regions
where tho winds are more variable and more boisterous."

Capt. King adds that, in running down to the road from the S K. point of
the island, he saw tho appearance of shoal water in several places at a con-
siderable disuncc from the land ; and when he was alMJut 2 miles to tho oa«tt-
wnrd of the anchoring-place, and 2 or 3 mile« from the shore, he got intt» 4 J
fathoms water, although the soundings* ha<l been usually 7 or 8 fathoms. The
whole distance between Koloa and Waimea consists of a series of sunburnt
hills and barren plains, sloping gradually to the shore from the mountains, atid
now and then intersected l>y ravines or gulches. Tho town or village, which
has about 1,200 inhabitants, takes its name from a river which, af\cr a courso
of about 16 miles, falls into the sea at the place. Ituats may ascend it for about
three-quarters of a mile, and this is the only water that is not brackish. On
the Kact side of the river entrance arc the ruins of a stuuc fort, built by the
Russians in 1815, but soon after abandoned.

Waimea Kay may be recognised by Kona Feak, which is of reddish appear-
ance, and a conspicuous church in the village. With the church bcutuig .\. I I'..,
a good berth will be found in 10 to 15 fathoms. — Lieut. Child.

The coast to the wi-stward of Waimea consitUi of a sandy plain, from one-
fourth to a mile wide, and 150 ft. above the sea, whence it rises gradually to
tlic mountains. It has a sunburnt appearance, and is destitute of tries. On
tho low grounds the cocoa-nut tree llirivt>. and tiic sea-ooant i» ^•l>Il^ide^ed
the best ground fur fishing, and the maiuifuclurc of salt might be exlviiaively
carried on.

Near Waimea are some curious sand-hills, about fiO ft. high, called tho
" Harking Sands;" when the sand is set m motion by sliding down thcui, a
Muad like Hubterruneau thunder is emitted.

Point Mana, the Wo»t point of the island, is in lat. 22" \\' N., long.
159== 4"^' W., and off it a reef of rocks extends about half a mile from shore.
Near this the country assumes a very ditforeNt aspect ; from hence to iianalei
Hay the coast has a rcry rugged and romantic Bp|>earance, rising suddenly to
lofty, abrupt clitfs, which jut out into a variety of stifp, rugged, rocky points,
apparently destitute both of soil and verdure, but U-rminaling nearly m uniform
summits, on which, as in the valliys, are patches of lively green, producing a
singular eifect.

Hanalae or Hanalei Bay lies on the North side of the island ; Copt. Wilkos
calls it IlaUUa, signifying the land or place of rainlM)ws, a name arising from
the frequent rains, which clothe the country in ]>erpetual green. The village
ii, at the head of the bay, which is of bcuiiciicuLu form, a liltk* o>cr a mile m

KAUAI-TIANALEI BAY-NmAlT.

1103

; road,
I trado
n, nnd

regions

oint of
n con-
ic PIM»t-
into 4 J
». Tl.c
iinburnt
ini, anil
?, which
a courHC
or about
•h. On
I by the

1 appear-

rom one-

.(hmlly to
.■c». On
mxidercil

LlCUslVfly

-allfd thu
litem, u

N., long.

ini nhore.
to lianalci
idilcnly to
'ky poiuU,
m uniform

,pt. Wilkea
i»in>; from
he villuf^e
:r a luilc tu

width. Reefs and shallow water extend 2) to 4 oableafrom the shore, outitidc
which the depth varici waly from 6 to 7 fathoms.

It may be recognised by Na Pali Point, just West of the entnmee. This
point is the termination of some high land which slopes suddenly to the sea,
some parts of the slope forming several needle peaks. On the extremity of the
point there is a smuU hill, and a reef extends about three-quarters of a mile
from the point On the East side of the tntrance is a dark, bluff head, with
two sandy beaches a short distance to the eastward ; a reef extends about 3
cables from it. A remarkable conical hill bearing S.S.E. will lead to the an-
chorn(;o ; a good berth will be found in 7 fathoms with the cutranoe tu tho river
bearing K. by N., distant about 4 cables. — Lifut. Child.

Ilanalae, Itesides bullocks (noble animals, and meat iw fine as in England),
and vegetables of the finest quality, furnishes ft-uits, poultry, turkeys, kc,
elieap, and in abundance. Water can be filled in the boats, by sending them
into the river. — i llclchor, vol. i., p. 61.) Here is the Princeville sugar
j)laiitJ»tion, which was originally i)lunted with cotTee, but the trees became
blighted.

In Auf^ust the onchorage is safe, but when the N.W. gales blow, a very
hoavy 8oa must timible into the bay. Cnj)!. Sir K. Holchor was informed that
a Kussiuu store-ship rode out the season in spite of everjthing. The anchorage
is pretty well covered by a spit, over whicli there is alK)ut 'J ft. ; but there is
not surticient space in bad weather for more than three vessels, although in the
tino season the bay is spacious.

Till! laiiiliiig is within the mouth of a small river, near the western point of
tin- bay, w liicli carries, for a considerable distance up, from one to threc-iiuarters
of a fathom, into fresh water, and is further navigable for boats or canoes
(drawing 'i ft.) several miles.

T!;^ sctnery is beautiful, and it is surprising that such a favourable spot
should so long have bccii overlooked. The consul possesses a tract of land, on
which his tenant feeds cattle, makes butter and cheese, and farms to great ad-
vantage. I am certain that our men derived more nourishment from the cattle
we embarked tJiere than from any previous diet, and, contrarj* to the general
f«H'ling, preferred it to salt, regretting its loss. I would, therefore, strongly
advini- siiips of war to sacritice much to secure these advantages. — Sir Edward
lirlcher.

Six large rivers flow into the sea on the North coast of Kauai, East ond
West of Hanaloi Hay, irrigating a fruitful district, containing many large
sugar plantations. At miles westward of JIuualei Boy is the small harbour
of Hiuna.

NIIHAU {Onerow or Oneeheotv)\\c» ITJ miles W.S.W. of Kauai, the channel
between being called Kumukahi or Katdaka Pa*»aye. The island is about 15
miles long. N.N.E. ar.d S.S.W., and 2 to 7 miles broad. The eastern side is
rocky and unfit for cultivation, nor is there any si olier or anchorage on it.

1104

THR SANDWICH ISLANDS.

I! ' -

1
I

It is compnratively low, and with tho exception of fruit trees, wliich are
carefully cultivated, it is deiititutc of wcwd. 'Flic soil is too dry to produce
tare, but on that account it is will udnpted to the growtli uf yarns, &o., which
are very czccllcut, and of an enormous xize.

Niihau was famous for its yanm, fruit, and mats, and was the property of
the king, but was purchased by Mr. Sinclair, a New Zealand settler from the
Canterbury district, who removed here with his family, and used the island
exclusively as a sheep-walk. In 1877 there were about 75,000 nheep on tho
island, tlic inhabitanu, 233 in number, In-ing mostly in the employ of tho
owner.

The natives wen- a darker rnee than those on Oahu, and reminded Captain
Beeehcy strongly of t}io«e on How Island. They lived almost entirely ou the
westom shore, and were very jKx>r.

Yam Bay. — t>n the western r<ide of Niihati are some small bays or road-
steads, in which veswls may Rtop with jimpcr procaution!*. Vancouver anchored
ofi" the South j>oint of the islanii, in II fathoms, about ihreo-cjuarters of a mile
offshore, bottom soft, sandy, nyular, and gooti, the S.K. point of the island
bearing S. 77' K. ; the West point, N. -Ih W.; and Kaula Inland, 8. .58^ W.
He afterwards anchored in Yam Hay, in IM fathoms, with the N.W. point
bcarini; N. 2.i W., 1^ mile otf; the West point. S. l.V K. ; and Kaula,
S. a:\ W. ; but this |K»»ition, though the general rende/vuus for ships, wa» a
much worse jxwition than the former one.

Cook anchored wcntward of the S.W. poir • during a strong easterly gale,
one anchor in '20, the other in '2f> fathom*, the South point beariiij; K.S.K., and
the bluff Ik a<l to the South of the -North point of the ri>ad, .N.Iv by N.

.\dmiral Heechoy says: — Tlierc is but one place in this bay, the same in
which ^'aIicouver anchored, on the western side, where the boat of a man-of-
war can effect a landing with safety when tho sea sets into the bay, which is
of very common occurrence ; this in on il» northern shore, behind a small reef
of rocks that he* a little way off the beach ; and even here it is necessary to
guard against sunken rocks; off the western point these breakers extend 1^
mile. The soundings in the bay are regular, up<m a sandy bottom, and with the
w ind from the ea>»twiu-d good anchorag*', if re<juire<i, will be found ; but it would
not be advisable to bring up under any other circumstance.

Lieut. Child (<laleH that Conk'i Anchunuje is exposed to tho heavy north-
westerly swell which frecpienlly «ets in ami breaks st)iae distance from tho
shore ; tho botU)m it compoMil of large rocks, with imtches of sand in some
parts. Near tho beach are a few huu and a church, also a ilerrick for loading
and unloading boats. H.M.S /'f/.r</ anchored in ".» fathoms, sand and rock,
\uth Tuhoora Island l>c«ring S W ; the extreme of the reef off Kona I'oint,
N. } E. ; and the church, .N.K. by K. \ K Tlie landing-place is protected
by some rocks in the N.K part of the bay, and is situated just inside a luva
patch, which from si-award appears like a point; with a hea%y nwcII, landing

*?. «;

NIIIIAU- KAULA— HIllI) ISLAND.

110.5

i» iinpracticaljlc. Whalers occa«iona!ly call hcru for fresh iKcat, but the sheep
beinj; bred for their wool only, very Uttle meat can l>e obtained.

Dirertions. — Vessel!* bound to Cook'n An»!'oraf;e from the north-eastward
ore recommended to j)a.ss about lialf a mile North uf Oreehoua Islet, and keep
about 2 miles oiF alonj; tlie western shore of Niiiiau, as the trad"; wind blows
more from the northward on this side of the island. Nona Point, about .5 miles
North of tlie anehoraj^e, is a lonj;, low, sandy point, having; a roek iHft. iibovc
water near it; the reef, whieh extends a short distance outride this roek,
should not be apj)roaehed nearer llian three-quarters of a mili-. Wlien the
landing-place bears K. by N., it may be steered for. the soundin;^s decreasing
gradually to \1 and 9 fitlioins. As the rollers set in with but little warning;,
eajlinj; vessels should proceed to seu un the first indication of them.

Lehtia, Oreehoua, or Kij<j Island, off the North end of Niihau, is a rupKcd,
naked, barren rock, to all appearance destitute of soil, and without any signs
of habitableness. On its H.VV. side is an extinct crater, near whieh is a spring
of fresh water. It is of very small extent, and is sej)arated from the larger
island by a channel less than a mile in breadth, in whieh the depth apj)eared
to be shallow and very irregular.

KAULA, or Tahuora, lies 19 miles S.W. by W. J W. from Cape Kawaihoa,
the South point of Niihau. It is a small, elevated island, about a mile in
length, only inhabited by flocks of birds, for whose eggs it is visited occa-
sionally.*

BIRO ISLAND, or Niboa, also considered as a member of the Ilawaiian
Archipelago, lies about 102 miles W.N.W. of Lehua, and was di.scovered,
April i;}, 17H<), by C'apt. Ituuglas, of the Iphiyenia, who gave the name to it.
It had not been j)revi()iisly known to the inhabiUmts of the Sundwich Islands,
who afterwards callcl it Modu-munu, which also means Mird Island. It is
merely a barren rock, of volcanic origin ; it is bold all round, and is the re-sort
of numerous flocks of sea-birds, ('apt. Harvey, U.N., made a plan of it, on a
visit to it in II. M.S. Havana, December, 185(). The island was found to be
nl)<)nt three-ijuarters of a mile long, by one-third of a mile bro»»d, and 880 feet
hi;,'h, the North side being a perfect precipice; but on the South side there is
a little bay where landing has been made in the summer season. The master

• rapoTfv* Rofk.~ Cook ht>«rd of a >.inKll, low, uninhalitud ielmd, callod Tammatapappa,
Hmtoo-p^ftu^pti, Ki>modtK,jtapp<i (i.e., (lit isl.ui.l), Hboiit livu houm" sail to the S.W. from
Tiihoora. It wm laid to U) vi.-itod fjr tho purpose of oiUhing turtle una so^i-fowl. It
hH« Won statod by t* whider to lio in lat. 21" m V., lon^. 161' 18' W., but Capt. Gill.'tt,
of the rai8«ionary ship Morning Star, placet it 80 milos K.S.W. i.f Kiiwiihoa Point, Niihau^
or ill aUut eir 48' N., 160* 3S VV., and aays it can \w neon 20 imliB from aloft. Captain
tiioue, of thu brig KamfkanwAa, says that he tacked within a mile of it. Notwithstanding
these a«(!trti..u», ih.. U.S. nhip /W<.«n««rA could not find it, and tho Tu^cirvra passed clo»o
to tho position ^iven by ('apt. (rillutt.

Nur(h I'diijic. •• ^

IlOfi

TflF, SANDWiril ISLANDS

I i

went as cliwi' n% the hoat roiild Mft-ly nppronrh, nnd pulled along the island to
<itis«rvi' tlu' prnotienliility of a fcviling bom^ obtained in more moderate weather.
He ftiiind within .'» euhh-n there were noiindinf^N in lA ftUhoma ; rould only nee
one spot — n la^^o l)<)uldiT l«aeh of ixlxmt '-!(>(• ft. in extent — where it appeared
pns.siiilf in tlif tinr-tt wcatlu r to Innd. The nienof-war bird« eame round the
hont in nome uuikImth. and were troublewoinc ; no senls, aen-lionK, or animnli of
nnv dcKcription were obwrved, nor any ap|M»ainnr<> of miano. I'rom the forma-
tion of the nx-k. and the larjte amount of heavy rain that falls in ita vicinity,
it is not p<><*sil>l«- tliat any (piantity eould aeeumulat*' ; nor were binU teen in
sui'h (juantitu-s as to warrant the expoctution. 'I'hc position uf the N.W. peak
is lat. -2^ X 15 N.. h.uK H'T 45 W.

The surveyinn-schiMiner h'rnimorr Cooper pnMed within a mile of this island.
It was found to lie nlKiut half ii mile long. Kast nnd NN'est, by a ({uartcr of n
tnilf iti width, with a ]M«nk at each extremity, the eastern one of which was
made out to he '>'^\ ft hi^h. ( apl I'atty, of the schooner Muunuiaiini, thinks
landini; praetieahle, althoui;h Tery difficult, at a small spur of santly beach on
the Nouth liide. where he also found a small drain of fr(>«h water, and saw n
ft w seals and plenty of birds. There is nnchorapc at from one-quarter of a mile
to '2 miles otf tlie South side, in from 7 to 17 fathoma.

This concludes the description of the islands composing the Hawaiian
Arehi|»ela^'o In tin- suhsefpi'iit pam^n-aphs wo shall i:;eluile all the islands to
the northward of lat 20 , suuie of wluch lie U) the cii«tward uf Uic Saudwich
Islands.

M'TACIir.l) ISI,ANI).< AM) SHOALS TO TUR NOUTH OF

LAT. 20 N.

Tlie north-eastern part of the North I'aeifie Ocean 5s sinfjularly free from
i«iilated nef> or l<iirU islaniU, or even of annoimri'nu'nt-s of islands or vi{fia.<.
On the eonrrary. tin south-western part alxxinds with lurkiiif; dangers, coral
ri-efs and islaiuU, and tln-se have Ix-cri muhiplicii to a very larj^c extent by the
vajnie notices derivcil from older authors, whose positions claim but little con-
sideration, or from the still more va(^ue accounts piven by whah-rs, a class of
hhips whose e^timate of |>osition was generally of the loosest character. I'suallr
kfcpiii'^ no proper dead reckoning, drifted in all directions by unheeded
currlnt^. very long o>it of sight of land in pursuit of their prey, they had
often no means of giving o correct longitude or even latitude, and the ffreat
sinulurity which exists among most of the coral reefs and islands, renders their
recognition when utiinhahitid very dittieult. In conH«'(pience of this, the chart
id ;ij>jiarentU bestuwcd with daiigiT*. whieli it is certain do nf>t exist in the

gjsSi

->ng the island to
lodrrate weather.

; rould onlj «re
■here it appeared

came round the
m«, or animiiU of
l-'roin the fortna-
I in ita Ticinity,
?rp binU wvn in
rUicN.W. peak

ih*of thin island,
y a ({iiartcr of a
ic of whirh wnn
inaiawai, thiiikH
luintlj bearh on
ater, and nnw n
quarter uf a mile

; the Hawaiian
til the island* to
uf Uie Saudwich

LOS ALM08- (iUADALUPE ISLAND.

1107

nvTu op

ilarly free fn>in
landN or vi(fia.M.
i; danger*, coral
Ifo czU'nl by ihf
n but little con-
ittl«>r«. a claas of
iracter. rnuallr
in by unheeded
prey, they had
', and the great
il«. rendrm their
f this, the chart
lot eiist in the

number* specified, but of ni.my of which we have no niciuiit of dt-ciding as to
their nu-rita.

For further information, rcfi'mirc should bo mnih' to the '* l.i^ts of Uopoitcd
Dnngera to Navigation in tlie PuciKc Oceiui," fon)|iil(Ml at thu I'.S. Hureau of
Navi);ntion, but reference will be mude in the uUHuiiig puges to those reports
which ar« worthy of utteutiun.

LOS ALIJOS, or Farallonei Alijoa, Ijinj,' nearly 20i) miles westward of the
aouthern portion of the C'uliforiiinu peninsula, have been alhnied to on pa^e
IS."). It is a danjjeious reef, composed of four j)rineipal rocks, which, in
nenriiig theiii, show themselves successively. They exteml about half a mile
Ntirth and South, antl not over a cable Kast and NN'est, the smithernmost and
highest beiii^ 1 IJ ft. high, and the northernmost 7'2 ft. Mesides these tlii-re
are numerous smaller rocks, the whole at a di>tance haviiit; so much the ap-
pearance of ships under sail, that such an error, easily made at ni<;ht, would
eipose a vessel to the greatest dangers. The name of these rocks, first dis-
covered in 1791, by CapUiin .Mar<{uina, in coining; from tlu- l'hilij)pines, and
not again reported until Admiral I)u I'etit Thouars' examination, is e.\|)ressive
of their dangerous character — "rocks which land a ship's cargo." The latest
observatious place the southern rock in lut. 24^ 68' N., long. 116~ 52' 30 \V.

OUASALTJFI ISLAND lies about 140 miles off the northern part of the
peninsula of Lower California. It is about 15 miles long. North and South,
by 3 to 5 miles broad, and is very lofty in the interior, a chain of hills ex-
tending throtigh the wliole length of the island. The highest of these hills,
near the North point of the island, is estimated to be 4,.'y'2',i ft. in elevation,
and one near the centre, 3,68 1 ft. The island can bo seen at a distance of
about fiO miles, and will ap]>ear, when bearing either East or WcBt, lower at
ita southern extremity than at its northern.

Off the South end of the island, within a distance of 1 j mile, arc two rocky
isleta, the outermost of which is ')(J0 ft. high. The shores are in general bold,
rocky bluffs, with detached rocks close-to, but they have not been closely ex-
amined. No dangers extend beyond one-fourth of a inilr from the island.
The only anchorage is on the S.E. side, in a small cove, fonuetl by u few rocky
islets, which lie off in that direction. I'ere vessels may anchor in 7 fathoms
water, shelteied from all wiuds, excepting from S.E. to E.N.lv, which seldom
blow here.

From unerring indications, there is no doubt that it hiut been once voloanie ;
it is very barren on its South end, but in the northern part there are several
fertile volleys, and the mounUiins ecmtain vegetation. Wood and water may
be obtained from a small cove on the N.E. side of the island, and goals' flesh
may Xx had for the trouble of shooting the animal.

This island was generally sighted by the Sv»j*tijJ^t' wh»iM bound to the south

I !

HOB

ISLANDS AM) SUOALS NOUTH OF LAT. 20 N.

waril from MuDtoroy, or from their other northern entHtiliMhnients ; in nhich
rout4^ thoy pniMoil to the wc>«twaril, out of si^ht of thoM< iaiandt which form
the Channel of Santa linrlmrn, for the ndvaiita^e of continuing in the iitrrnKth
of the N.W. windH ; and thun tliey reitchtnl the inlami of (iuiidaln]M-, from
whence they ^t^'ored a cour»e for CajH? San Lucas. The Nortli point of (iuada-
luiH? i« in lat. 2'r 10 50' N., long, lis 18 aO" W*

Andrews Island, in lat. '21" 30' N.. long. 131° 20' W., wna nefn by ihe
hnrijue I>rn<jon. Her captain dcHCrilM.^ it at low, but viiiible 10 milva ofT.
Thid is nl! thiit i.** known of it, but it heems eircunistnntiul. liowerer, this
p<»ition was p.is^ed over by 11. M.S. I'andtmr ami the I'.S. «hip Jamettmrn,

1877, und Cnpt. S. (i. Jones, ohip f'ictoria yyanta, sailed over it in Svptvuber,

1878, and ww no hi^ns of nn i^lan(l.t

• SJulvofJtt hImtJfUi. 22«6'N.. long, ll? 14 W.— Sir Kdwsnl Bolrher mys: -"(Vn

IWittinl'T 11, I'^ilT. |xii«iK-<l rloM to (ttm>likliipu, Hiid thi-n i'«|li>r<Ml a il<xrt>«t on the |mrall<'l
whi'To an ininnd h*"! luttly l>w»i ri'jorted, to fall into thi> pnnilli'l :■( Shfir<>f, .S'Ar/t>or*«,
SKalrrtt, or Shf^ri I'Utui . »\rfTV a nxtifly tn ('ii|>». S«n IiUcim, un'il I had Kiiffici>'ntlv (]<••
t«-nnin««d its iii'ii-txuti'nri' within ..i» mili* Fjt't ..r \\'.»t nf il« liaxif^nnl poaition. 'I'lio
Vi-nus hInc went ovur the wmc »froiiiiil on nuarly th<- tumv urrand, and witli lik« i.icrcu."
Till- I'.S. r\i\\'» Vfhi.an und Xar a^^Hirft (MtanlioJ lt>r it unsui-oi-wfiilly.

l.n/anir /iii.-i, Hiiid to huvf tx<'n tern \-y Uif Fn ruh cummnndur of that natno, in tho
Jrmn ISrrrf, S,'pt4>fnb««r, IMS. in Ut ^V \t W N., long. Vih' 0' W.. nhowoiK %» thrt-*.
pointa or peuks, 2fi or 30 ft. hint^, ti niowt imprutuiM'' in thui fpivat bii^hwiiy.

t IlmHrrmm hlaini. mirkod at KiO mili-s Kait of thin, if prubably inlt'nJi'd for thr inl.tnd

in Kju'h l^iMtiido. I . aiiditi'.n lo thii> ih' f"llu»iinr nm) U' boIumiI hero Ka^t ut llawiiii . —

JVVv I$U^>l^, lat. 2"" 2'>' N , long. i:J3* o' W , fr .m whaW rrport.

Ottfmr Rotk, lat. 2<r 30 N., lorg. 131* W., a whalrr report, ia another di<prove<l !an-
ger near thia.

Coofxr I /.Ma./ or Pr,tk^'. in Int. 2'>' 4h' N., loii^f 131" .''V W., or in 2.V 30' N, lon»f.
I.i3° W niid po»iti<.n wa« »ou»;ht ovit, wtth<Jiit wee***, ly tii* I'uitml t^tiktca' Kxplunng
Expfdti'.n, and ly th.- l' S. ihip J't,rl$m4mth in K3.

Ctpp»r (whuUr n«port, or Ctpptr Uland China 5Iail). in Ut. 20« N , long. 131* 54' NV.,
and alo in /.'*»/ I'liifitlldr, and ''•f;'*r hlitnil, lit. •.!(•• 2''> N , loii;: t.)(>" '>i' \V . and nlnoin
riniiUr E>un lontritiid", may If rt'p< litioitK ul tiiv aamn report. It wm not funud hy the
tiarraijanKlt in tli< htttvr poaition.

Muna I.ajara, Ut 27* 47' N., lon^. 1J»* 2fi W., wad not found ly thi> I'.ttmitulk , but
thia, U-^idtH i>4'Vfnil uther pnaiiiona nunr it, hua Ut-n pUcnl in longitude 144* 3U \V., .ti.d
\jt- \V. A th<j,ti ha« ul«. I- • li r«i.ortvd m t',' 4'/ X., 14<»* 4'J' \V.

Bmrttfyt Ji.<k. a w .i!, r r»p<rt, \n' JJ* 0' N., lon»f 1 iT o' W. ; aUn ;in ubfH^ in 21* N..
long. I4\f .'Ui W. Tiif J'ltiimoHi/t mjanlud uiiauotuatlully for tbu Utt'-r.

J'htl«tiflp)iKi hIanJ, n whalor rep<.it, l:«t. 2T 4' N , lon»t l.')5 4»i \V It i« mnrkrd iin
lH>»a .l/«'i.i Aa.-o.ion iK>in«- o!d chartn. tmt ont- of ihi -hijia of Ihi- I'nittsl ."^Uiii,' K\-
plorin^ Kxp<di:ion pi»««td orer the eiti . .irtln.i .SA#«/, nmr it, in Ut. *'.r ;iO' N , lonff.
l.')o' 00 W w:ia itiiiL-d yvtr l'\ ')'.- •'•ii' /--.iw U !iud a lirf" iiuanlitjr of k< Ip fast to

EEED ROCKS-NKCKKU ISLE.

lioi)

BEES ROCKS.— It is itatrd that Mr. Hevd, mimtcr uf the brig Emma, uii
her rouU' frt»m Tahiti to San Frnnoitoo, disoorered, Octobor 8 (1850?), two
rookfi, lying N.K. and S.W., one 160 fatboma long and 6<t wide, tho other about
lUO fathomi long and 38 wide ; a depth of 5 fathoms was got on one part, and
3 fathoms alongside the rook. It was thought that the aea would break on it
in heavy weather. Lat. 37" 24' N., long. 137 27 VV. They have been uUuded
to in a note on pp. 2.^0—260.

The U.S. idoop-of-war Falmouth saw rocks in the same position in 1851.
Capt. Kedfield, of the whaler Sutan Abigail, in 1856 discoTered, according to
nhKcrvations which he calls excellent, 1 1 miles more to the northward, some
rocks, with about 10 ft. of water over them, tho largest 50 ft. broad and nearly
l.'jO ft. long, and S.S.K. of them, one-fourth of a mile distant, a discoloration
of water iudicating another and smaller rock. Most probably these discoveries
are one and the same danger, the position of which is the mean of those given
to thcra by the discoverers. The barques W'hat-cfiMr in 1858, and Yankee iu
1H63, report to have run over tho position without seeing anything. Captain
lU'dficld's position is 37" 35' N., long. 137" 30 W.

Search bos been made for these rocks by several of the I'.S. surveying- vessels,
but unsuoces-sfully. Still further examination is noccitsary tu distprove the cir-
cuniMtautiul accounts given above.

sr disproved lan-

und, in iV N.,

NECKEB ISLE wa.s discovered by La T^rouse, November 1, 178G. He
described it as Wiii^ very siuall, only a rock uf 500 yards in length, and at
most 300 ft. in heiyht. There was not a sinnle tree seen on it, but vegetation
was abundant towards its summit. The bare rock was covered with birds'
dung, and appeared white, contrasting with the ditferent red ."pots on which
the grastt liad not grown. Its shores are as steep-to as a wall, and the seu broke
with fury against it everywhere ; olf its S.K. jwint only are a few rocks, ex-
tending about 1 cablcH. Its barrenness renders it unimportant to sailors, but
ittt situation is .not so, and was Uctcrunued by Capt. Stauikowitch us 23' 34 N.,
long. 164' 47 20 W.

It was surveyed by Lieut. Brooke, U.S.N., in the schooner I'tnimore Cooper,
and its centre is placed in lat. 23"^ 35' N. (nourly on the tropic), and long.
164"' 40' W.

Lieut. Urooke's examination proves the island to Ixs three-quarters of a milo
liiim, VV. by N. and E. by S., and 340 yards broad, with two peaks, one at

tho bottom, and uxtuud«xl S.8.E. aud N.N.W. 2 mil' 8, by 1 milo iu breadth. Tho I««d
gr«ve 1 1 fitthoiua in sijvoml plucuH. The I'urtmHuHtk vvurchud for them without succ<j.<>s. Tho
Tusctrora suundud iu ;i, 540 fathoiui .luar tht> giruu iMj-i'.ion of I'liiludclpbiu I.-.liiud.

I'tilmtr Jiet/iit «Lm) improbublo. It wiim siiid to havt tiffu wen in tbo Kintijlthfr, in I. it.
iV •i.',' N., lonK. I'i-' ^i' W., but it in ulay uu the truck uf iLu Uuiltd .Siai.««' Kxpluriuj
i;x(«Jition, Julv 7th, lb41.

ill— -I

1110

ISLANns AND SlIOAT,S NORTH OF LAT. 20 N.

4Hch longitutliiml cilromity. ihi- wrsUTn oncalM»ut 'Jho f». high, ami the rnntfrn
ono 250 ft. ; a muall isltind. ab«>ul 100 yurdii to ihc North, isconiipotod witli th«'
Urgpr by a rcof. lie found from 15 to In fathom* wutor nt '2 iiiilo* «liKt,iii«r,
in k north -fai»terly direction, ('apt. ratty, of tho .lAiMrid^dirai. could not (iml
twy lanilin(;-|>lnco for boati, a* tho iuif hroki- all around.

It waa Timtcd noon afWr by Cnpt. lin»ok!«, in thr (lamhia IIp any* :— Tlii*
ialand is rocky, and about 1^ to J miluH lon^. kurroundcd by a bank making off
to the wujthwurd about 5(' niilrn, accordiiiff to dipt. I.onj^'* Atntt-mcnt. Cnpt.
Ilrooks crowicd in lat. 'J'i 14 , and found it to he about 15 niiica nrro** from
Ka*t to Wist. The wmtrrn edge in wry abrupt; the discolnuratiun of thi>
water ninv be sctMi nt a di^tanor of 3 mile* from tho m.ist-head. Soundin^i
ore fn)m deep M'a to 14 fathom*, which diH'|H>n to tbe ea*twnrd gnidunlly tn
•bout S5 fikthomt. at a di»t«nco t)f 1.') milo!* A vps*el crossing thi* reef by
heaTing-to can take any tjunnlity of ti*h of \cry tine quality. Tlicro i»n ravine
makes down from the S K eml of the ro(>k, wherw at *ome fwawons there i.s
water. A boat may land in good weather at the foot uf this gulch.*

FKENCH FKI0ATE8 SHOAL ^Ba»»f dti Fn^'ialn Fmn^aiaeitJ lies to tlir
westward of the Sandwich Islundtt. and wo* uIhu di*covere<l and named by I.a
TurouM, November (i, 1780, during hi» [>a*8age from Monterey to Macao, lie
described it aa a rocky bunk, nion- than I'i miles in extent, and even with tho
water's edge, having on iti* N W. extremity an islet, or bare rock, 100 yard* in
diameter, and 40 or 50 yard* lu height. The •}>aco between this rock and tli«
breakers was (X'cupied by ihrff Bui.d-liunkK, rai'ied about 4 ft. al)ove the surface
of the water. The astron'uuor, M. Dagclet, made the islet in lat. 23" 45 N ,
long. 165" 50', and the eastern point of the reef ia long. 165" 40'. Captain
Stouikowitch gives it the same position.

It remained unnoticed for many year*, except by *omc wrecks upon it, attri-
buted, but in all probability without reason, to its wrong position on the chart.
I)ut whi-n the guano excitement aroHe, it wa* examined by Lieut, lirooke, in
the U.S. hchoouer Fenimort Co-'ptr, in 1869, who reportitl large depowits of
that Bubittanco. He made the inlet in the centre to be in lat. 23* 4G N., long.

• Dtrkrrt UlanH, a wh*W report, in 23* 24' N., Irt.T ft' W., unJ r1i»<> in \.\v sftrno E<ul
Inngitude, jiri.hiMy refer to tl,«t. AU)ut •') mtlnn South of the foniiiT potitiun t)ie I'.S.
Hhip Tuutrura soundiMl in 'l,ti'ii (alliums, sad no sign uf Isud cuulU Xhs svtia frum the rii.inl.
htmd.

Captain Engliitb, of the ketch l.unaltU,, 1873, paMtnl uvrr a thool southward of Ntickrr
Ialand, and suuiidtsl in 2.3 ftithumii. Next day he pHMod ovor ssbual almu«t bruukiug, in
lat. 24' 33' X., lonK. lO.S* 40' W.

Froit Shoal, a bank with 17 and 20 fnth'im» writer in it, win r'-prirto I in lS,V.»by thir ahip
E. L Froit. It wna of coral bottom, and laid to be upwards of 6U miles in extent. North
and South. It« p'.cilion would be alHtut 2-3' 4ft' N., long. 103* W W. Nothing more is
known aliout it Sauttcl M*ja.uu, \'»h'i, p. t>oC>.

20' N.

h, and the ptiKtcrn
)nMortc«I witli tht<
2 niilo* diKlJincf,
ai, could not find

Up wiy»:— Tliiii
bunk making off
tntt-nu-nt. Cnpt.
lilfs nrro!w from
ilourntiiin of thi-
vfn\. Soundin^jt
ird icrudunlly to
ng this rtcf by
riicrc in n rnvino
MniMins there is
ulcb*

<isf$J lies to the
d n.inied by I^i
to Mncao. lie
I CTon with the
:k, 100 yard. in
it rock and tliM
Kjve the Rurfuco
at. '2ii" 45 N ,
' iO'. Captain

upon it, nttri-
n on the chart,
it. lirooke, in
rge doponiu of
• 46 M., long.

FUr,\(^n FUKJATES Slin.M,.

nil

IBfi" \r> 10' W., or 2«> westward of Dagelet'n position. By the same authoritj
the Kiwt oilrcmity in in lat. 2.)^ 44 N., long. IGG- 5' W. j the 8.W. end of the
crcMcent, 23^1 N., ItiO" la W.

Lieut. Ttrooke apont four dnyn in nn oxnminntion of it, nailing all uround und
through the inner pamnges. The iHJet or rock (12U ft. high, 180 ft. base), with
• tniall rock about 250 yiirdu N.N.W. of it, he found in the centre of the reef.
'I'here weru aUo five dry mind-NpitM, the largt'^t thrcc-cpturtorH of a mile long,
bearing from the centre islet N. Tti* K. (true), 4 miles distant; the next, N. 45" K.,
'*> niilen dintant ; then a very small one, N. 11" E., 5 miles; then one N. H^° B.,
4] miles, also Tcry small ; and, lastly, one of half a mile diameter, N. 12" W.,

5 niiles distant from the centre rock. Hesides these, heavy breakers were seen,
N.W. i N., 6 miles from the rock ; then K. by S. ^ S., !> miles ; S.K. by K. i E.,

6 miles ; and S.W. } S., 5^ miles from the rock. A passage w-as found nearly
in a straight line from the southward of the N.W. breakers, close by the central
rock (West of it), to the S.E. extren»ity of the reef, in from 12 to 17 fathoms,
broken shells, rock, sand, and corul. Lieut. Brooke's position of the central
rock is from the mean of a number of excellent observations. His bearings, as
given above, are true ; the variation he made (1859) to be 9° L5' E.

It was subsequently visited by Capt. N. C. Hrooks, in the American biirquo
Gambia, in May, 1H59, and with the Modern Times, for the purpose of re^
moving the guano, but none could be found. He says : —

Next visited French Frigates Shoal, situated in lot. 23" 46' N., long.
100° 14 W., or rather this is the jmsition of the principal rock, on which A
very large and extensive deposit of guano had l)een rejKjrted to e.xist. Tl>e reef
is cr<»«cent-«hapod, convex to the north-eiistwanl, and about 45 mile* in cir-
euinferenc*\ 'llie position as given by Cupt. Hr(K)ks, of th« damhia, differs
from Lieut. Brooke, of the U.S. Hiirx'eying-schooner Fenimore Cooper. Capt.
Brooks is of opinion that his position is the correct one, as he took observa-
tions on both voyoges to the plocc. He also landed on sixteen small islands or
sand-spits which Riirroundcd the rock. One point of the crescent is to the
N.W., and the other hears S.S.K. The shoal is proteote*! on the N.E. and
S.K. by a reef on which the sinf breaks heavily. The guniio rock is about 180
flit long, and 40 ft. wide at the base, and rises very abruptly to the heigUt of
ll'.} ft., forniing a ndge, at each end of which there is a sjMiee of about 12
f-fiunre feet. This rock is situated in about the centre of the shoal, and can
be seen ut a distance of some H miles, and closely resembles a fulI-riggcd brig.
These shoals open to the \N est. There is no dang< r outside of the line of
breakers. There is good anchorage inside, in from 5 to 14 iathoms water. The
largest sand-spit of the group bears about N.K. by E. from the rock, about 4
miles distant. Inside of this spit there is a good harbour, where a vessel of
any draught of water may enter and lie in safety from the sea with good an-
chorage. Water may be obtained on the largest of these spits at about 8 ft.

flii'.

■^ I i

1112 ISI.ANPS AND SHOALS NORTH OF LAT 20 V.

U'liiw the Hurfncc. It it Tcry hr»cki«h. ind strongly itnitrrKiiittitl witli lime.
Tlio nhimU iilxtuiul Hith f'lKh iiml turtle — A'dn/Ko/ .l/wyrttinr, Sf|ttrinlKT, I HOO.
Auiong the nu)r»' riiiiiirknMe wrrckit wan the Ihinirl U'ooii, n whnler, «m
April 1 Ith, IS.Mt. The crvw livrtl on the inlctn fur *onie tiine, hut were rcM-iuHl.
The NomM '^framiin wu tdtnll}- wreckinl on tlicm, Mureh \'.\, iN.i'.J, hut iho
crrw of thnt tomvI were aI»o •uvvil. The lUhtccu wm lust h) uu»t4ikiii^ tli«
rtK'k fur a thip.

Brooka Shoal.— Cnpt. N. C. rtrook*. nfter Irnving Frrnrh Fiijjntew Shivil,
and running 'U) milo* W. by N. ^truc) frt)tn it, cronwil a ihoul tin which he
found 14 fitthomit water, and xnw the iMittotn dixtinetly. Although thi* wnn the
leiwt w.itrr fiiiu\d. tin re tuhv be lew. niid boidtj. th<m' oornl reefit ^rnw up vi-ry
mpidly nt time!*, and therefore caution nhould be ufvd when near ita poailiun,
about Ut. '23- b'l N . long. 160' 46 W.

OARDREB I8LAHD wm di«coTcred by Tnpt. Alien, of the whaler .Ifdro,
June '1, l**.'!! Then' m no doubt but that it in the wme ah the .\tiint>f-\V,tr
Hark, and the I'oilnrti Kock and PolLtnil Itlaml of the Anu-rieant. Aoeurding
to itw diwoverer, it \* a small island, al><>ut a mile in rirruinferenee, an<l '.Klufl.
high, havin>j at it* S.W. point two large rocks running off to the N.W. C.ipt.
Stnniko^itrh place* it in lat 'J.V ;V N., long. K'.H' I ;»0 \V. I.icut. Un.okc,
r S.N., niakiH it* rcntre in lat. '25 40 , anil 'JJ' farther Kast. Hy hi'* ■-
•criptiun it is an inuoceMible nx^k, 17(t ft. high, with a base of about O : ,
and a smaller rock close to itM S.W. extremity, from which a r«H'f makes it
half a mile. .\ luink, with from 17 Ut 'id fathoms water, surrounda the rock,
exU'nding we>tward about 6 uules, and S.W. mure than tt nulvs.

Two Brothers Reef was so namc<l by Krusenstem, from the rcssel which
was supjxHied to Ix* wrecked on it, but it i« thought that it was the French
Frigates Shoel. The |M>sition given was lat. 24 14 N., long. IfiH^ MY W. ;
but Capt. N. C Hrooki* »ays that he passed over the imsitinn of an island given
as 24 fi N., \Cu .S.') W., without seeing anything, although there was every
indication of land m the riciuity.

XARO REEF wa« di»covcre<l by Pnpt. Allen, in the American whale-ship
Maro, in June. IMJU. in lat. 25' 24 N.. long. 17t» 20 W. ('apt. Ntnnikowitch,
who explored it in IH2M, found that it was H leagues in circumference, and thai
it was visible from the deck of his Toasel at V> miles off. His position of it is
Ut. 25" 46' N., long. 17r 49 K. lu N W. end was placed by Lieut. Hrookc,
U.S.N., in lat. 25 31' N,, long. 170- ;»7f W.

Capt. N. ('. Hrooks says : — We next ran for Maro Shoals, in lat. 25"" 30' N.,
long. 170^ 31 W. These shmds cover an area of atwrnt 35 miles in circum-
ference, are low, and covered with breakers. They may be seen on a clear day

4 i

10- N.

intril witli lime.
"H'liUinJM'r, iHfiO.
'</. ft wlinliT, on
»ul won- rrnctUMl.

. IH..'.>. hut Iho

) luuuking tltM

ml on wliich hr
11^1) (Imh whm the
•fd j»rciw uji Vfry
.>ar lU piwitiun,

MARC) m.v.y Dowsivr iikkf i.avsan isiand

1 1 1 .1

from nldft nt A n>il(-> ili«tiin('u ; the (liNcnliirutioii <>f water tuny l>o nnticcil an
■uoii an thu l)n>akciH ari' mcii. The nIhuiIh iir«> onchmril hy n line of iletiirhed
hreuker^, niid hii\c a Mitiidy hottoiii, with I ftUhoiii nf water, — mi rook or luml
above t)tc Niirfactf, nor niiy Ingoun innide. I coiiHJder theiit* HhoiiU very dan*
gerou*. oil at tiineit the hreiikeni iirc low and Nciireely to he iliNtiii^uiHhed front
8en-cn|>N. It in nearly cneireled hy a hunk with l;ooil ar -horage.

DoWMt Reef, on whioh the whaling hrig hnmrhamrha «trurk in 1H72, is
about H miitt< long, N.W. and SI',., ami I tniles troad ; in nonie partn the rp«'f
'\% awanh, and the «ea hrfak«< all over it. 'I hf poKition of thi' centre, as deter-
mined hy the tnii«fer of tlie Hmm hnmrhn, is lat. 2') l;i N., long. 170 38' W.,
and aliout !•'! niiieit South of Maro l{eef.

? wli.iler ^fnr,^,
le .\tiin-i>f- H'ur
aiiN. Aeeording
■nre, and '.i()(i ft.
he N.W. ('apt.

I-icut. Ilrooke,
It. Hy hi>< 'o.
f about dv t.,
r«H'f niakeiH ut

iJnd« the rock,

«• ve««el wliieh
a* the Kreneh
\(\H' 30 W.;
»n inland given
ere wu every

LATSAN or Moller Island ih an American discovery. Cnpt. Staniknwitch,
not knowing that it had Ix-en previously seen, gave it tho name of his vensid.
He describes it an a sniall. low inland, uniidiabited, of a eireular form, with a
lagoon, and fi miles in eireumfi-renoe. I"rom his observaticms it lies in lat.
25" IG N.. long. 171' lit \V. Its hei-ht is about •.'•'> ft.

Lieutenant Mrooke, T S.N., makes itJi centre in lat. 2."» 17' 17 \., long.
17r VJ 47' W., and states it to be '2 miles liin;j, and 1 J tnile broa<l, a low
iMland, covere<l with shrubs, agreeing with the diseription given hy Captain
Longbank, of the Ixinpie ('lard.

("apt. Mrooks sayn : — Laysan Island is in lat. 25 M' N., long. 171' VS W.,
is .T miles !< :; an<l '-'i miles broad, and covered with a luxuriant growth of
shrubs. It IS surrounditl by a reef about half a mile fron> the land. Outside
of this reef tliere is a bank ,'> miles wide, on which 1 fouiul from II to ID
fathoms water. Vhere is a boat passage inside the reef nearly the whole way
round the island, the only obstruction being cm the South and S, K. sides. Oood
landing can be found anywhere, excepting on the South and S.lv sides; good
anchorage anywhere on the West sido ; the best, however, is about half a mile
from the S.W. point, in from H to I'J fathoms water. It can be apjiroached
from any point of the compass, no dangers existing within half o mile (,f the
reef. On the Kast end of the islaml I found the remains of a wreck, but saw
DO signs of a camp.

There is a lagoon (m the island, about 1 mile long and half a mile wide, with
5 fathoms water in the (cntre, and coral bottom. On the shores of this lagoon
I found salt of good (|ualil,'.

There are (_1m.jH; live palm-trees on the island, 1.') ft. high, and I collected

twenty-five varieties of plants, some of them splendid flowering shrubs, very

fragrant. resend)ling j)lants I have st-en in gardens in lloiiohilu. I saw on the

beach trunks of immense trees, probably drUted from the N.W. coast of America,

Aorth i'acific. 7 ^,

>ii

I i

1114

ISLANDS AND SHOALS NOUTII OF LAT. 20« N.

Tbo island contains a'cout 50 acre* of good ioil. It ia covered with a variety
of lantl and sen binh ; some of the land varioticf are small, and of beautiful
j)hunapc. Hirds' cri^ wi-ro nhundnnt.

'I'lurr is a very Huiall (Irponit of jjunno on this island, but not of suflficiont
({unntity to warrant any uttc-mpt<« to pet it. Dug a well, and found very good
water. The rcofs here abound in Hsh and turtle*

4:^-- '--l

LISIANSKY ISLAND was disooverod by Oapt. Lixiansky in the Russian
shij) .Vri<j, >'birli utruck on iu* rref on OotolKT l."), 180j, and was nearly
wroiki'il. According to iu* discovorcr's description, it is a snmll, low island,
almost on a level with the sea, excluhive of a small eminence on the caaiein
j>art. ItJ» soil consistJi of coral sand, overgrown with grass and creeping pluuts,
and full of holes. There is no water to l)e found, and consccjucntiy there are
no t.rocs or shrubs. Lisiansky found several large trunks of tnes thrown on to
the bcaeh. He calls the shallow S.K. part of the extensive reef, in the middlo
uf which the i.sland stands, the Xera Shoal, from bis vesttci. I'his is about 1^
mile K.8.E. from the island in his plan.

Capt. I'atty statis tliat the island is 1 J mile long, and the northern port 1
mile wide, ili'vat< il from iO to 40 ft. above the sea. It is surrounded by de-
loehed rocks, which from K.S.K. U) S.W. make otf a« far as the eye can reach.

I'apt. N. C. IJrtK)k8 visited it in the d'ambia, in 1859. He says : — lusiansky,
Lassion, and Pill, are one and the same islaiid. On most ehaiia quite a group
is laid down, but there is only one islantl, situated in lat. 'JG~ N., long. 173" 57' V/.
It IS ;J miles long, and - miles wide, anil is surroundetl by a reef, on which the
si-a breaks lut'Miy. A bank makes oti' several miles, on which there is I'J
fathoms water, shoaling to 8 fathoms near the reef. This reef is about half a
mile from the island on the Kast and North sides; on the West side it extends
in a circular form at a di.stance of 'J^ miles, tJie inside forming a lagoon. This
island should not be approaelied from ihe South, as a line of detached briakers
makes off for r.iaiiy imles, and can warei Iv be <iistjn;;uished from sea-caps.
l'j)on this hue the Holder llordm and Couiihasxftt were lost. Thic island
should be a])proaehed from the .North and by standing round to the westward,
the island bearing due ll;ist. (iiMxl anchorage may be foiiiul anywhere ouUiidc
the lagoon, in from lu to 1 i fattioius. In entering the lagoon on a line with
the M-ef, there are two very large breakeis about ihree-ijuai ters of a mile ajiurl,
bei:.g North and South of each other. Between these, on the same line, are
le».Her breakers, through which a vessel may enter in a chaniul about a «juarter
of a mile wide, with J fathoms water. Just inside tlie reef 1 found 12 fatliouu,

• Bunk*r Iilmnd, scconJinf[f to Oupt. Kntn-bue, wm diaoorurrd l.y nn American, Janunry

11, 1815, m Lit. 2M- 20' N., K»iik. 172* 3u W. Arnl ther« man i.Uiul ivmxuA l'K,i,t<ieipKi»
in the Aaitrumi list, in lat. 2«' N., long. 173* ai' W. C«pt.un I'alty, of the ichuonir
Mahuakatcui. tougt.t fur U without aucccM.

20O N.

ered with a varietj
II, and of beautiful

ut not of Rufficirnt
nd found very good

^r in the Ruwian
•j, niid was nearly
small, low inland,
>cc on the eatum
ud crrrpinj; pluutn,
oi^upiitiy there are
trcpg thrown on to
rvvf, in the M\iddlo
I'iuM id about 1|

e northern part 1
"urrounded by dc-
the eye can reach,
•ays:— Lisiansky,
inti* quite a g^oup
■ Aoug. 173-57' \V.
reef, on which the
which there ia la
?ef ia about half a
est tide it extends
>K a lagoon. Thi»
detached briakcrs
ed from Ma-cajn.
lost. Thic i^llu,d
I to the westward,
itnywhere ouUide
" on a line with
rN of a niilc ajwrt,
to same line, are
■1 about a quarter
ound 1 2 fathom*,

Amorican, January
n:4irii-.l l%tU,Ulp)na
y, uf the schuoQir

LISIANSKY ISLAND.

1115

gradually shoaling towards tht laaJ A vessel mny anchor within half a milo
of the land, in 1 fathoms water, with good anchorage. There arc rocks under
water in this lagoon, wliich may t-asily be avoided by keeping n good look-out
at tlie mast-head. I found about a i:-kn()t current sotting North and South ;
the tide ri'ics and falls 24 inches, (iood wuUt may bo obtained here with very
little trouble. The shoaU abound with finh a id turtle. Laiwling can bo effected
anywhere on tlie island. On the South end, near tlie centre, there has been a
lagoon, but it is now partially overgrown with shrubs.

On the Kast point, about half-way, is a liill about 40 ft. high, with a look-out
pole and cask. On the South end 1 found a ship'.s hou.si whicli had been used
♦o sleep in. On the North end I wiw the trunk of a redwood tree, 12 ft. in
eircuMifcrcnce. On the West ^idc found ;• notice left by ilu' S<in Difijo^ Uiking
possession for parties in San Francisco, dated .\pril 27th, IH.j'J. I con.sidcr the
load the safest guide nt night among these island.^ as they are all surrouniled
by a bank for .wiue dislunce otf shore. I'assed DVor the position of Neva Island,
but saw no land.

There is a dangerous shoal discovered by Capt. Sta likowitch in IS'27. The
eo-stern extreme of this lies S.K. ^ S., 7 J miles, from the N.W. part of the islaiid,
and its western extremity ut the distance of I miles.

The islands called I.oxkHr, Lamn lit/s, Lasxidnn, Xi-avas, and Xera,* are
doubtless intended for the above, as the position.i oi nuxst of them have been
passed over. It has been alto called ')>ajjrun JtlunU, and I'eli island by (.'apt.
I'ell, of the whaling brig Delaware.

Captain Lisiansky places the centre of the island in lat. 26" 2' 18 ' N., long.
173 42 30' W. ; Captain lirooks, as before stated, in lat. 2G N., long.

na-'S?' \\.\

• Xfra Uh»d, in 2")* fiO' N.. 172* 20' V,'., wmS not ceeii liy Capt. I'litly, ttcUuuUtr Miinua-
laiiai, nor by C'ltpl. Urojk^ ia thi> (ram/nu, aa abovo statoJ.

t Some Tory (lou)itf >il ivlnndii have be«a amiuunctxi in this neitfhbviurhool, of which tlia
following iiriy In- inciiti' ut^i ; —

An iti,in4, l.t. 2S' ;),■)■ N., I .n^. 171' if W. (China M.iil.)

Mas'iuhinrttii IshinH, lai. 28' ;iO'. luLj? 17G* dU' W., whaltr r port 0>«ptiin Pii'ty, nf tho
B< hoont r MaHUokaitm, ran ovor tliu |ilac» without Bceiiig it, or J'fitiiiiMpAKt JmrnU, l..t.
28* 20' N., kiiiif. .W 30' W.

A''.. /./.t«<i, 20' 21' N., 17"" 54' K., and /ta»»'ti4i lilan.i. 2i!* 6' N., 17.'!' 27' E., nro JK)th
fioiii whuliT repoit, iind nra rt-ry doubtful. iMynnt Vi'v* i»"d Laskar Art'/, .tunietiuiri) pLi»'t idaitly I i»i.'Mt(iky Island, budly spelt, uud piitct-a in Ktul instead of W rat
lt>nfcitud«.

Piakf hiinl, a whilur report, la«. 2r)* 30' N., long. 171' 0' W., is probably Li:<i«n)k7
Island.

An xtUnd in 21* 0' N., lonj,'. Kii' 30' W., frv>ni wh ib'r rojxirt.

J'ulmrr JirfJ, accordiiitj; to Cupttin I'almLl, of ihu Ktn^thtr, lu Ut. 20* bV N. long.
i~i' io \V., Lab i tcul wutir ovut it.

'.-' 4

1116

ISLANDS AM) SHOALS NOIITII OF LAT. '20 N.

A Bank, n-porUd liy Cupl. iVIl, of the l»Ii^ Dflnnare (sec notr below), ia
lilt. 25' 50'. long. 174'" 26', or, nccording to whah-r report, 1" more to the eiutt-
waril, appan-ntly lies to the S.K. of Lisian-ky Islanil. Lieut. Hnxikc, U.8.N.,
of tlio /'ruimiirr ( 'mjirr, foiiiui l«>tli>in at l'>. 17, 18, '20, -■'), anil 40 fathom.-*,
hi'twii-n tiio parallri.s of '2't 13 N. and '-'(')" 'S \., and the meridians of
IT-'i J',* W. and 173 3'J \\*. It appears to he a south-ea-sterly rxtennion of
the bank around Lii^iaiinky, which i.slund the Cmtfirr could not gain yn account
of stormy weather. Nothing turther is known of it.

FEA.EL and HERMES REEF \* un extensive !>hoa1. on which two Driti.sh
whak'-Khips, tlie I'tui I and the Utrmen, were wreekinl on the same night, and
witliin 10 miles of each other. April 26, 1822. They were cast away on the
P^j>t side of the island, and were fortunatr in having favourable weather for
several days, which enabled them to save a great portion of their store*, and
to builil a ves.«.el of uImiuI oO tons from tlu wucks, with which they reached
the ^andwich Isumdh \n suf'ty.

It was vihited by Morrell in 1825, bjr .Stanikowiteh in lR'27,nnd a plan of it
is given by ("apt. 1 lujarrey. There are cousiilerable dilferenccs in the rc^pec,lvc
jKtsitions i\>>igucd by each.*

("apt. Staiukuwitch ^ay^ it consists of Kveral small i.slands, of whicii the two
largest are nametl I'ciiri and lU'rincs, encinled by a reef, through which ;s a
pas.sage by which the Dfiiientua passed tu an anchorage uear the largev of
the two i>lands.

(.'apt. N ('. Ihooks says : — The group consists of <weivo islands, surrounded
by 'I reef .V> miles in circumference, on which the iea bituk.- h'-nvily. h js
ojKii from the \\ ist. TIhti' is a lagoon inside, where mmcIs may lie in .'» tu
16 fathoms, but they cannot a])priiach within 2 wiles of the land. 'Ilu' only
passage to the lagoon is tVvim tlic N.NV. The largest island, which Iwars
K. by S. i S. from the ciilnince, may be aitproached within J miles sjifely.
There is good anchorage anywhere uiit.-<iilc. in fr<>n' 8 .o TJ fathoms, but tlie
best is on tlie N.\S side, near the pa«.>am- to the Iftimiri. The current sets to
the North and South at the rate of 2 knots. The tide rises 21 inches ; tiic pre-
vailing winds are from tlie IvS.K.

'i'he largest islands are covered with coarse gracs and trees. I snw the re-
inaiiis of the two wrecks, llie keel, stem, and st -njiost. with three iron Uuiks,
still standing. I brought away a wo'«len inmUir used l'_. the party on sliore.
The remains of the camp still exist on ttp' large island. 1 took iM>sses«ion of

• Mnwrr Itank.-'Vht Amarican briK DrUu-are, II. Hunt, li«'ut»'nsnt-coiiiitiiin<liT, ilit-
coT>r.-i :• tmiik sbovs tht" wati r in Ut. t'^ 2f'< N , loriR. \',\' 'Ih \V , in 1844, wbiih, •«sn
ut s-jmn miK-.i <lutaii(.'<'. nppi-arLtl tu U 12 or 14 liiiU'* l'>liK It is atAtttJ, hImu, lliat ihcra
ar«i< vcral othors iu the iiL-i)fh)>uurhuu<l. umiiy of wlmh »tu nut kuuwn. It nhuulj )mi notiri^l
tiiit this L)<.li«xi< I'.iiik ii iibv\t ».>i<.i, aiiti J'j uiil< .- lu tLv N<.>(iL uX th .t nuliicil ^buvu.

!0 N.

note below), in
ruore to the eH«t-
Mnx.kc, L'.8.N.,
iiul 10 fallionis,
le moridiims of
rly rxtcnoiun of
b':iiii jii account

hicli two nriti.slt
saint" night, nnj
ast awaj- on the
ible weather for
llioir 8tore», and
h they reached

and a plan of it
in the re^])ccavc

f which the two

ugli which .s :i
»r the large', of

lids, Rurrounded
h.v«vily. h i,
limy he in o to
und. 'llu' oniv
il. which bears
'2 mdcH (Mifelv.
thoins, but the
■ current set* to
nchcst ; the jire-

I Haw the re-

iree iron Uiiikft,
•arty on uliore.
k ]K>()Hei*«ion of

-coifimnndrr, ili».
((■*■*, wUith, Bwn
1, ttinu, tliat ihcre
Hhuuld Iw notirnl
iiulic til abtivu.

PEARL AND HERMES REEF- BROOKS ISLANDS.

1117

this fjroup. A bank nmkes off to the East and North for about a mile, and to
the West for several miles, with fr <u 8 to lU fathoiua, and no daagerit outside
the breakers. Plenty of fish and turtle.

It was partially examined and the positions established by Capt. Ileynolds,
in the I'.S. siiip Lackawanna, in lat)7. He says: — I'earl and Hermes Keef,
like Ocean ind Hrooks Islands, has a coral wall above water at its N.W. ex-
treme, which, however, shows more in the shape of deUiched rocks than as u
continuous parapet, and, soon expending itself beneath the surface, does not
reappear, at least so far as our examination showed; this was not very close,
OS I hud time only to get the outline of the reef.

The N.IC. corner includes a sand island. Another showed itself some miles
to the westward in the lagoon. Three others lie along the soutbom edge of
the reef, which turning to the northward and westward, close to the western-
most island, soon after ceased to show any signs of breakers. Shoal water,
however, makes out for some miles to the West, and then trends in north-
easterly towards the N.W. rocks. In this the wesleiu side of the reef resem-
bles French I'rigatcs Shoals.

We made the circumference of the reef tt> be 12 miks. Its shape is irregular,
its diameter from North to South 'J.^ miles, from East to West 1<> miles. The
N.E. point of the reef is in hit. 27" 6«' 30' N'., long. 17.5' 4(j W. ; the S.W.

end, lut. 27
175 47' ao'.

l« l.j', loll-. 170- 0' 30 ; the S.E. point, lat. 27" 48, lung.

Gambia Shoal was discovered by ('apt. Hrooks, of the Oamhia, 1850, who
stales it to be U) miles W. by N. from I'earl and Hermes Reef. The bottom
was disiinitiy seen, and had I i fathoms over it. On the latest charts it is
placed about ^(0 miles westward of I'earl and Hermes Reef.

BEOOKS or MIDWAY ISLANDS.— This atoll is of much more interest thnn
its uninhabited ami barren eomliiioii would warrant. It was discovered by
('apt. N. C. Urooks, in the (Jauibia, July 6th, 1S.5U. He called the two lalaiuls
Mi<ldUbrook hlamh, and took possession of them for the United States, leaving
a Kamchatkan as a .settler. On his return he kept its position a .secret, and his
discovery wiis utilized by the I'aeitie Mail ('omp.iny, who inlemled forminir a
" ere for their Trans- I'acitic steamert

■1'

An\

u, which

was ihouglit to be under foreign intlueuce, establishing here a coaling :md re-

freshment stiition.

With this view it was closely examined in .'^eptcnihcr, 1S(;7, by Capta
Reynolds, U.S.N., in the L<i< kauanna, and the following is his report,
published by the I'.S. IJurcaii of Navigation.

The reef encircling Mrooks Island is {K-ar-shaped, with its stem part to tho
eastward. It is 18 miles in circumference, a.s measured by the patent log in

the two circuits uruui

id it,

iiid IS witliout a break, except on its western side.

«"!!

>»

I i

1118

ISLANDS AM) SIIOALS NORTH OK LAT. 20" N.

.1
It

At the N.W. jwint is h littl? patch of bn'nkfr«i, n few tlv-t^ioht'd rix'ks, and then
comintncoi a C()mj)act coral wull of alnnit 5 ft. elevation, und, ns far nn our
olnHTvution wrnt, from 6 to 20 ft. in width, which contiKues for I J milrs to
tho (H»uthw;ird mill lastwnrd, wlii-n it Itvxe.i itn unif-nnitj- of surface, and pre-
nont.8 a lino of detached ri>«k>, vorj- little mon than auash, for 2^ niilci* to tho
(totithward ; thorr, oJF the loiitrr of Mitkllo Uri»oks Ihlaml, the n)rk« dip under
water, but re-upiK>i>r 2 mile!* to the wty.twartl. from whence they again show
B» a eontinuouM wull for ulniut 4^ milew to the northward and wentward. end-
ing there, and forming the South side of the entrance to Wrllrt Hurhour. Tlie
I iitrance in alH)ut thriv-<iiiHrter» of a mile wide, and from it« northeru cd<;o to
the N.W. nxrkM there is a IkmI of con»l from 1 to Ifi fatliomi*, showing bImjm;
water in one phice, with ueeiiKionul hn aker>. (Ihe chart shows the eutrauco
to be only one-tl.inl of a mile wide.)

The mirthern, v«i«ttrn, and southern portions of the reff are steep-to, to the
rocks. Wc >uw tho bottom in two placet* only where the sonndings are shown
on the chart.

On the West side shelteretl anchorage, during the trade winds, con be had
in fn)m 10 to V-^ "athi^iw, but on a very foul liotlom. The best outride an-
chorage is in Srtcard IuhuIb, in 10 to 13 fathoms.

Middki Brooks Island. - At the etinttrn extremity of the reef, or in the »t<in
of the jn'ur, i!> MuiiHr lirxjokn Ixlatul, uljto pt-ar-shuped, i J mile in length, und
half a mill' wide. It is of a nearly uniform elevation, varying from 6 to 15 (^.,
covcri'd with a growth of hniull «hiul>s. coarse grans, and some vines. The st)il
is all coral, sand, and tihells, except a small |x>rtion on the South side, where
tliere ari' a ftw acres of mould 2 ft. in liepth. No black earth is to Iw found
on this i.vlaud. The btaiii i.> of a dazzUiig whiteneiw. IJy digging -4 to 7 ft.,
water is readied, which becomes potable after standing. lt« North poiut is iu
Ittt. 28- U au' N., long. 177 1« 20 W.

At 1 \ mile West of Middle Hrooks Ir<land is Lower Brooks Inland, a small
spit intervening; it is a Kand-heap of irregular sliape, 1^ mile long, three-
(juarters of a milt- bro<«d, and .'•7 ft. liigh at the ^lag^tart', it.t greatest elevation.
Vegetation is just eomrae-ncing on this island, in the shajK- of detuehi 1 clumps
of shrubs arouml portions of it« edge, and an occasional growth of gnws, tho
greatest abundance l>einic on its S.W. extremity. No black earth is to be found
on it; on the ccntt;iry, tlic glaM> fioin the white xaiid distress«>s the eye.

(apt. Hurdett inlormed m.- that lie had miu 260 yards of it wash awav, and
begin to re-form, during tb j fiw Mcuk.s he ha I been a»horc. The sandK])it up
by the N.\V. rocks, which was quite conspicuous when we anchored near it on
the 16th, had almost disapiKaicd by the 27lli, when I landed on it; but, from
the quantity of ^aIul tlnicalH)iil», I picMinu' a jK-rmanent sand island is forming.

On the lower island the ngint ot tin- racilic .Mail ('om]>auy had eslublished
himself, because it borders on tht- harbour.

Welles Harbour is formed very much like that of Honolulu, i» rulhcr more

20" N.

:t\ rtK'ks, nnd then
mi, as far nn uur
s for -t^ inilrH to

surface, nml prr-
ur 2^ iiiiloH tu the
e n)ck« jIij) umlcr

they ngniii »how
(I wctitwaril. piid-
et Ilarhour. 'I'lu-

nurthiTu eiJj;^ to
». shiiwiuj; uIm)\(!
OW8 the eulruiHc

■p steopto, to tho

ludings are shown

indu, can be had
lH.'bt uuU^idu uu-

of, or in the stini
ile in lfii(;th, and
; from <"> to 1 J ft.,
[• vines. The soil
JUlh Ri(h', where
h is to 1)0 found
ijipiti;; -1 to 7 ft.,
North point i.s in

Iflitnd, a small
nile long, threc-

eiitest elevation,
dctaclic 1 cluinj)!*
th of grass, the
:h is to he found
» the eye.

wa-'li a«ay. and

he sMiid ^pit up
hored near it on

in it ; but, from

land is forming.

had establiithed

, ik rulLer wore

BROOKS OR MIDWAY ISLANDS.

1119

roomy nnd ns safe, but ban not quite the sanio depth of water on its bar, having
but from 21 to 16 ft. at low water. The anchorage is in lat. 28-' 14' N., long.
177- 2;r 15' W.

The bar is quite narrow, and has an uneven bottom of coral rock nnd small
sanfl holes. Its deiilh varies from 21 to 16 ft., but changes so often and so
constantly, from 3J to Ji fathoms, as to make it unsafe to count on crossing it
without getting a IJ-fatlioms cast or two. Wc had I'J ft. going in, and two
ca :•< of 18 ft. in going out, both times at low water.

Like Honolulu, the entrance to it is from the West, through a narrow open-
ing in the coral reef 800 ft. across where most contracted. It can be entered
as n ndily as Honolulu at all seasons of the year. Depth of water for anchor-
ing .") to 7 fathoms, while sandy bottom.

This harbour is cut oil" from the liigoon by shoal water n mile in width ; and
our survey, carefully made, does not disclose a passiige anywhere for ships into
the lagoon. It would be possible for a light-draught vessel to get into the
lagoon by pa.-'sing to the northward of the " Middle Ground," and threading
her wny in amonp the rocks, but no channel proper for ships exists.

The lagoon is 2 miles in length, nnd 1 ^ mile wide at its greatest breadth.
Tliere are many coral lumps in it, with froni 1 or 2 fathoms water over them;
otherwise the soundings are regular, over a white sandy bottom.

Welles Ilnrlmur must, therefore, be the resort for shijw drawing less than 18
feet, or, at high water, of a little over that drnught. Vessels of deep draught
must lie in Setvard Roads, picking out a sandy bottom to let go in.

The greatest rise and fall of the tide, obser^'ed during the neap tides, was 18
inches; the lowest 15 inches. Kbb runs 6 J hours, flood .5 J hours. From the
appearance of the beach I suppose the riso of the spring tides is as much as 3
feet, which would allow a deejKJr draught to be carried over the bn,- at those
periods. The bar is well within the entrance, and there i» no swell on it during
the trade winds.

'Jhe flood sots to the northward, the ebb to the southwanl, from 1 to 2 knots.
At Welles Harbour tlic current alunxys ran out to the westward, with very little
strength.

The coral shelf which runs from the N.W. end of the reef to the southern
wall gives very irregular soundings, having deep fissures between the rocks,
and again spaces of sandy bottom. On this slielf. nt our anchorage of the 23rd
of .Vuguwt, we loit one anchor with l*^ f.uhoms of ilinin. and broke the flukes
ofl" another ; could not recover either of them.

Two circuits of the reef, made with good look-outs aloft, disclosed no dan-
gers outlying it ; and, so far J, a our observation goes. Pearl and Hermes Reef
to the eastward, and Ocean Island to the West, ore the only dangers in the
way of dire* approach.

Steamers, in approaching Hrooks Island from the eastward, should make
Middle Brooks Island, and follow the southern wall to the entrance of the hur-

1120

ISLANDS AND SHOALS NOHTII OF I.AT. 20 N.

ill"

¥ ;i

!' i

f i

hour. If coming from the Wont, tlio Lower IMnnd should Ix* nmilc. Siulinp
Tpssrls from the oftntwani, during the trndo »ens<m, should keep to northward
of the reef, nnd poAs nround tho N.W. rocks, to retain a fnir wind for Seward
Jionds. Stjuare-ri^-^'Cil vesselo must wnrp into the harlwur with easterly winds.

On the N.K. In'Rch of Middle HriKiks Island a broken lower must of a ship
wa« lying; it was 2^ ft. in diameter, and «trer ,'thened with iron hand*. On the
Eiwt beach and on the blutf occasional drift-timber is to be met with, and some
lumlHT, mostly -iijruce and retlwood. On the West side, or lagoon beach, was a
portion of tlie trunk of a redw(x»d tree 5 ft. in diameter, and also the skelctop
of a calf sjH»rm whale. ( )n the lagoon side of the other island two lower masts
of junks were stranded, and scvsral redwood logs elsewhere, one of these ovir 2
feet in dianu-ter.

Tnipie birds, men-of-war hawks, nnd gulls, swarm upon these islands. .\ few
curlew and plover are the only land birds met with. Turtle abound, but ^ .lii
were seen only occasionally. Fish of many varieties in great abundance ; we
hauled the sciuc frecjuently, catching enough for all hands; among them many
fine mullet.

As there is more than ordinnrj- interest in this lonely spot, we add the
acci)unt gi%en by the naturalist, S. I). Kennedy, Kscj., ►uigcon to the Lavka-
uanna '■ —

'ihese are two long, low islands, chiefly formed of coral shells "nd sand.
They lie in a lagoon surrounded liy a barrier reef, except at one ])oiut, where
a brencii in it* continuity affords an entrance of .1 fathoms in depth.

The North island is 1 mile in length, and half a mile in width : while Soutli
Island is somewhat larger and higher, but has lejtssoil and scantier vegetation.
A bi^ach. consisting of white sand, di.^iiitcgrated shells, and coral, extenils from
the lagoon to u dist.mce of from Ad to Km) yards all around the Nurlh islaiul.
Insitle till!' spuei' tlie isl.md. gradually slojiing from its two hi'.;hir jxiiuts ^iKo
north-enstern 15 ft., and norlh-westi-rn 8 ft.', is covere<i with a growth of coarse
gnus and low shrulw. From its north-eastern point n ledge of coral rock, lying
at an angle of o degrees, extends alxiut 100 yards into tlie lagnon. From thi'<
point a fringing reef of the wime kind of rock, at about the s.iiiu- declinutioii,
runs for two-thirds of the extent of the east«rn nide of the island.

Judging from this peculiarity of coral formation, und the numbers of dead
shells, corals, and moUusks found on the highest {x>'nti«, this portion of the
iskind seems to be emerging. Over all that part of the island where vegetiilinn
is found, there is a suj)erheiul layer of fine, j>orou», grayish Mind ; but geiieniUv
it is devoid of vegetuble mould, iivueath, you come at once to eLMirsti suud and
gravel.

On the South side of the island there is a slight depression, embracing u\tont
6 acres, extemling from N.N.K. to S.S.W. This an u has a superficial stratum
of vegetable mould, from IH inches to 2 feet in depth, mixed with a sUiiiU pi r-
ceulage of guano ; beneath this is a layer of euarite siind of ihc dt pih of I font,

mm\

T. '20 N.

1(1 lie nindc. Snilinj;
J kcop to norlhwaril

fnir wind for Siwurd
r with rastorly wind.-*,
lower tnn«t of a »liip
th iron band*. On tlir
he met with, nnd some
ir Inpnon bearh, was a

niid nl>io the skeleton
sland two lower masts
re, one of these over 2

1 tlie«p inlands. A fow
rtle abound, but ^ .tN
i;rmt abundance ; we
Is ; among them many

'Iv spot, we add the
iigcon to the Luika-

oral shells "nd sand,
at one point, where
iS in depth.
1 width : while South
d scantier vegetation,
id coral, extends frotn
id the North island,
vo hi','lu'r j)oiiit,s (the
ilh a growth of coarse
:»e of coral roek,ljin'^
(' lagoon. From tiiis
he s.iiuo deelinutioM,
L> island.

the numbers of dead
t, this porli(m of the
and where vegetation
h Mind : but general iy
cc to CL«urtM.< (kUikd and

ion, pmi^rncing alxMit

a superlieial stratum

\«-d with a >n.ull p» i-

f tlic d( plh of 1 foot,

BROOKS OR MIDWAY ISLANDS.

1121

and below this another Btratum of ioosc Htonc, sholls, nnd cornls, closely packed
together, extending down to the hard coral. This foundatitm of the island, as
of the reef, consists of madrepore, mcandrina, nnd porites corol. lUit little of
the red cornl can be found about the island, or in the Ingoon. This embraces
the whole extent of anything like true soil that I was able to find on the island.
This mould is, I think, of sufficient richness to raise potatoes, pens, beans, and
other vegetables adapted to light soils. There is a small amount of guiino mixed
with it; nnd with cultivation it would doubtless become richer by the addition
of decomposed vegetable matter.

The vegetation of the island consists entirely of shrubs, herbs, and coarse
grasses ; none of the shrubs are over 3 to 5 ft. liigh. Of these, nnd the herbs,
the principal families nre the legiuninosn», lobeliaccir, portulacco, and convol-
vulacca). Kome seem to be new species of the different genera of the above
families.

On both ishuids several wells linvo been dug, and water found nt depths of
from 4 to 7 ft. I have tested the water taken from these ns far as the materials
whicli I have will admit. When first collected, the specimens were so full of
Kand nnd organic iiiiimrities in a state of suspension, that it was necessary to
filter them. After filtration, tested by different re-agents, they were found to
be hard, free from organic impurities in solution, to contain carbonic acid, car-
bonate of lime, and a per-centage of chlorides. The quantitative nnnlysis of
these constituents I have been unable to make for want of proper materials, but
have preserved specimens for further experiments. It becomes better adapted
to drinking after standing some time. Captain Ihirdett, of the Pacific Mail
Steam-ship Company, is reported to have found fresh water; but, so far, he
bus chiefly used it for washing, and the specimen sent off to me gave the same
results, when tested, as the others. The water seems to become purer in pro-
portion to the depth ; nnd there is every evidence that wells, properly sunk to
a good depth, would afl'.uil a good supply of potable water.

Immense niunbors of sea-birds nre constantly hovering over and alighting
noon these islands. The bushes and surface of the ground nre thickly covered
with their nests ; while the young birds, unable to fly, are so numerous as to
ninke it difficult to walk any distance without trampling upon them. 'I'he prin-
cipal varieties are gulls, fern, gaiinct, men-of-war, and tropic birds. From sueh
vast numbers there should be a large amount of guano deposited; but, except
in the 5 acres I have spoken of, its accumulation is small, owing to the
looseness or porousness of the soil allowing it to be washed away or filtered
through it.

The lagoon is fidl of fish, seals, nnd turtle. The seal is the phoca vitulina,

or common hair seal, and is not of mueh commercial importance. The fi; h

belong principally to the mullet, perch, nnd mackerel families; many of them

nre of most brilliant colours, nnd seem to be species of the genus con/pheua

I\'oith I'acijic, 1 u

1122 ISLANDS AND SHOALS NORTH OF LAT. 20" N.

(dolphins). Largo quantitio* of the holothurian, bi'chc^ do mcr, exist on tlve
bottom of the sea, both iu»i(lc ftud outside tbo reef, nud can bo gathered with-
out any diffieulty.

During the seventeen days that this vessel remained at the islands, the lowest
point which the thermometer reached was 72\ while the highcat woa 8J>*. The
barometer varied from 29.22 to 30.25.

There appears to be enough true soil, of sufllcicnt depth to raise a good many
vegetables u]>on it at present, nud with but littlt< trouble the extent of this area
niipht be increased.

The watiT in some of the wells now dug mi;jht be uneu in nn emergency,
and doubtless by sinking proj)erly-coiistructcd wills to a suflieient depth, per-
fectly potable water may bo found. Owing to the nature of the soil, these may
be made with but little trouble, and at a very small expense.

|.::;

OCEAN or Cure Island is an Ameriean discovery, the existence of which
wn« coutirmod by Capt. Stanikowitch, of the Imperial Uussian Navy, in 1827.
It i.s a small, low, and very dangerous island, with two sand islets, surrounded
by a reef, on which Capt*. King and Moltino were wrecked in the CiMstotif;
the American whalc-sliip Parker was also lost liere. The principal island is
htatcil to be IJ mile lonj;, and thicc-tjuarters of a mile wide ; and the others
are two small iisUts or band-banks. The opening into the lagoon is on tlie
S.W. side, and is rather less than a mile wide. It was examined by Capt. W.
Keynolds, I'.S.N., in the ship Lackawanna, in 18r>7, and i.s thus described: —

Ocran Islatui i> almost the facsimile of Urook-s Island, as will appear from
.'>.n ins])irtion of the chait. It commences, nKo, witlj a coral wall at it.s N.W,
extreme, wiiieli rontinues witho it a break until it dips under water about the
centre of (irein Island, b\»t does not crop out again. I'loni the end of the
wall the line of breakers continues to their ternunatioii about a mile West uf
the N.W. end of Sand Island; from thence to the N.W. rocks the water is
thoal, and affords no entrance into the lagoon, all of which is shallow water.

(I'rern J>liiitil, in the .'^.E. corner of the lagoon, i.s identical in appearance
from the sea with Middle Brooks Island, except that some portioi, > of tiie
slirubbery appeared to have grown a few feet higher. There is a small sand-
bpil between it and .*^and Island, as is the case at Hrooks Island ; but the Saittl
hlund here has not more than 10 ft. elevation above the level of the sea. The
trunk ^and roots of a large tree wua lying high and dry on the S.E. side of this
Sand Island, and on the N.E. end of Green lalund we saw a ship's lower muat,
which looked as if it had recently got ashore.

This reef is 1 \l miles in circumference ; no outlying d.ingers were seen from
the ma*>t-hcad, and no other lan<l.

Sund Island is in lat. I'b 21 l.V N., long. 178= 27' 46 W. ; the N.W. point
of (Jreen Island is in lat. 2S 21 60 N., long. 178^ 20' 6' W.

Caj)lain Brooks describes it as consisting of three small islands or rocks, in

^■"•MMMaMni

>'W*,><^ftS?yt-^W.*WBWM» „ i W <l

'. 20° N.

mcr, exiat on the
) bo gathered with-

c islRndf, the low«tt
ighcit waa 89'. Tho

o rni»« A goml mnny
L> cxtcut of this area

in an emergency,
iflicicnt (Iq)tli, pcr-
tl)ti soil, these minj

existence of which
ian Navy, in 1827.
I islcU, surroundtHl

in the GUdsfone;
prinripal island is
e ; nntl the others
' lajjoon is on tlic
iiined by Caj)t. W.
thus described ; —

will appear from
il wall at iti N.W
L-r water about the
iDUi the cn'l of the
ut a milo West of
ocks the water i.i
< shallow water,
cal in appearance
JO portion . of the
e is a small sand-
md ; but tl»c Sand
el of the sea. Tho
heS.E. .side of this
*hip'« lower must,

jrs were .seen from

'. ; tho N.W. jK)int

slands or j-ocks, in

OCKAN, rATROCINIO, AND MOURELL ISLANDS. 1123

lino East and West, surrounded by a reef, JJO miles in circumference. A bank
makcft off round the reef nt a distance of a milo, with 25 to .30 fathoms water.
The surf makes off to the Kint a quarter of a mile, and to the N.W. 12 miles.
The reef opens to the H.W. for about 15 miles. 'I'hc beht anehorn^e is found
by bringing the N.W. point of the breakers North, in from 7 to I'J fathoms, I
mile from the reef. Tho current sets North and bouth about 2 knots. The tide
rises 22 inches.

They can be approached from any point, and can be seen from the mast-head
8 miles, being about 20 ft. high, and corercd with bushes. On the North end
of the large island, which is 3^ miles long by 1^ mile wide, tlicrc has been n
lagoon, but it is now overgrown. On this island I found the remains of wrecks.
Good water may be obtained on this island. The second island in size is about
2 miles long and half a mile wide, with little vegetation, few fowls, and plenty
of turtle. The third is a mere sand-spit.]

It is probably tlio same as those de.«ieribed ns }fa.<isachu.^et(t Islands of tho
Amerieuus, uud Diy Island, witli an nttaehcd reef, of C'apt. Joy.

Erasenstern Hock was discovered by Lisiansky, October 23, 180.). The
bank around it appeared to strctcli North and South about 2 miles, and tho
sea only broke on it in one place. Jjit. 22° 1 J' N., long. 175^ 37' W. It is
probably the same as Smtuders Island, reported to be in 22'' 10' N., 175° 42' W.,
and I'yhtaart Island, 10 miles to the northward of the rock, but most probably
it does not exist.

Patrocinio, or Byers Island, was di.scovcrcd in 1709 by Captain Don M.
Zipiani, commanding the .Spanish vessel Senhora del Pilar. He states its ex-
tent to be 3 miles from N.N.K. to S.S.W., in lat. 28° 9' N., long. 175= 18' K. ;
but the U.S. stirveying-vessel Peacock passed near this spot without seeing it.
This renders it more probable tliat it is identical with Hyers Island of Captain
Morrell, of guano celebrity. This he places in lat. 28"^ 32' N., long. 177'' -1 E.,
but this position cannot be depended on.

rntrocLnio, or Hycrs Island, according to Morrell, July, 1825, is of volcanic
origin, moderately elevated, and has some bushes and spots of vegetation. It
is about 1 miles in circumference, and has good anchorage on the W.S.W.
side, in 15 fathoms, sand and coral bottom. There are no dangers around
this island except on the S.E. side, where u coral reef extends about 2 ntiles
to the southward. Sea-birds, sea-elephants, and green turtles resort to it, and
plenty of fine fish may be caught on its shores with hook and line. I'resh water
may be had from the S. W. side of the island. IJut, as said above, the positions,
and even the existence of the i.sland, are very questionable.

Vorrell Island is another so named by Kruscnstern from its discoverer, bv
whom it is pkccd in lat. 20' 57' N., long. 174" 31 E. It is said to be a small.

1121 ISLANDS AND snOAI.R NORTH OF LAT. 20» N.

low islnnd, nearly level with tlio water, J miles in circumferencp, nppnrcntly
of vol'-nnic origin. It wns coTcrctl with nca-fowl, nnil it« Khorwi were lined
with seii-elcphantA-, preen turtles were in abundance (July. IH25). On the
Wrut oido a cornl reef runs nfT about 1 'i miles; while another on the S.lv ex-
tmds about .Id miles in the direction of S.S.K. These reefs nlford k«)o«1 an-
cliornge on the S.W. side; but on the East side the water is bold close to the
reef. Another doubtful island in the same latitude is placed in lung. 170"' i'i W ,
from whalor report.

('apt, Cobb, commanding one of the racific Mail steamers, states that ho
has passed several times over and near tho position of this island, in lal.
ir M' N., long. 171" 30' K.

Sixty-four Fathoms or Melliih Bank. — A bank has been several times
announced hereabout by whalers. Tho first in lat. .'ItV J.')' N,, long. 17<»-' ;}0' 1!..
from a notice in tlic China Mail. It is placed a degree farther South, from a
report in ll»e Alta California, and an .Vmcricnn chart places it ft degree still
more South. MrUinh lUiuk is said to be in lat. 31' 'lb' N., long. 178' 17' K.
These possibly rrfor to the sam", if it exists. At nil e' Puts, it will be di-
sirablc to know whether there arc soundings here. I'ntil the negative is de-
termined, it may be retained, as not being dangerous. ' 'apt. Cobb In-lieves in
the existence of tills bank, in lat. 31' N., long. 17«- lb K., as he met with dis-
coloured water in the vicinity.

II i

i -^

Crospo, or Rica tie I'lndi, is said to have been discovered by Capt. rrcsjm,
in the Spani>h galleon I-il linj Carlo*, October \'), ISOl. He saw it 10 miles
oir, says it is not low. and that it is in Int. .')J- -IC N., long. 170 10' K. On
old Spanish rliarts Uica de I'lata is placed in lat. M" 30' N., loni;. 1(;7" K. It
is also placed by whaUr report in .VV .'ifi' N., IGl)-" 15' K. An i^land has also
been reported by a whaler in lat. .'J'J' ;5 , long. 170' 7 . Against this it may he
stated that it was neither seen nor heard of by Du Petit Tnouars, who possed
near its position.

Admiral Krusonstcrn say, that as the Japanese believed in tho existence cf
nn island of silver, and one of j^old, it is probable that the Spaniards ap.piied
these attractive names during their search for the precious metals in the South
Heas. The navigator would make a loss of time in seeking the fubuloiLs isles
of Kica dc Oro and liica dc Plata, the latter term sometimes being applied to
this island .*

• Fo tho south. westward of Uiis tht (ollowir(» doubtful itlands msy 1>« noticed : —
Putiouri Itland, Lit. 22" 0' N., louff. 108* 27' K., rests upon a giinjl • nuaounccnienl ia lL«
Cl.iDi Muil.

An \tlamt, in 23* .'J' K., 1C2' '<',' I'., from whnlcr ropoit.

Dcik UUnd, 23" tj' N., 103° U' K, iirulsilly i« tho Mtno as Xetifr Ittani in Wc<|

•"^flf

20» N.

'rrncc, nppnrcntly
Khoroii wvre lined
. IH'25). On the
r on the S.lv ix-
» niFunl (^(hmI .tm-
l)(»I(i cl<>»c to tlic

long, nyu W,

r«. «tnto» thnt ho
lis itinnd, in hit.

?cn several times
Idii}?. 171»M0' K.,

cr South, from ,i
it a degree dtill

otig. 178^ 17' H.

It*, it will be di-

l' nopiitirc in de-
('<>l)b lH'Iieve< in
he met with dis-

jy Capt. rrcsjw).
e «aw it 10 miln
170 10' ]•:. On
lon^. 10 7" K. It
n inland has also
i!»t thi* it may he
lars, who passed

1 the existence of
paniardi njjplinl
taU in the South
le fabulous islei
being applied to

>• noticod ;—
riuuoccmcnt io tL«

<T TiltHd in Wwl

MARCUS ISLAND.

1125

In all the Roacc between tliis and the coasts of Japan and Formoiia n great
number of shoaln and islandn were xnarked on the cIiartH. Ah the exist-
ence, or nt least the noHitions, assigned to many or most of these apjtcared
to be Tery doubtful, there was considerfthle difficulty in determining on tho
point. They would seem to have been inserted on the charts from the uncer-
tain reckoning or observation kept on board whaling vesselx, or others of that
class, whieh, from the very nature of their pursuits, could not be entitled to
much confidence.

Very many of these supposed discoveries are evidently of the most worth-
less nature, and it would seem almost a waste of space even to enumerate them.
In the great work of Admiral Krusenstcrn these g\iosse.s and mistakes arc most
industriously collected, and their proper value assigned in most instances. In
the later works published by tho U.S. Durcau of Navigation, similar reports
have been incorporated with tho older notices, and wc have followed them in
many instances. It will be in the memory of most sailors how the chart of
the North Atlantic was disfigured with "vigias" ond supposed islands and
shoals. 'I'he <leep-sca sounding machine has disposed of nearly every one of
these terrors to the navigator. It were much to be desired that the same pro-
cess could be so thoroughly applied to the great highways of the North-
western Pacific.

It is believed that in the ensuing lists only those deserving of ony credence
are preserved in the text. Those which are manifestly spurious arc given as
foot-notes.

Marom Island has been shown as a doubtful island, in lat. 2 !=• 2.V N., long.
IJ.T lo' K., but several other announcements of islands arc found hereabout.
Islands, from whaler report, in lat. 2\^ N., long. l.j.'3^ 10 K. Another island
in 24 o N., 1 jl' 10 K. It was seen by Capt. Kilton, in the David Iloadley,

lon^'ilmlo. Daykn- Iihitd, 'IT '1\' N., lO.T ') V,., is eviilenlly ini'.-\nt for the sime.

A rtff ut m/((/i(/, reported in 23' •!•>' N., 101* E., wus noiirchoJ for unsuccessfully hy the
Tutfttrora, in IsT 1.

An \fUvi(i, in lat. ;U' 19 N., loiif*. 1G0» 42' K., ii from whiiltr report.

Sel>(ut<an Lopfz or LJ>u» /tliiiiil, in l.it. 25* 0' N., long. l.'iS^o' K .orl.'il' 0', i.i only known
from the ol-l Spani.ih ihirt<. Tho latter position is ■!.') miles .lorlhward of Mircus F»l.ind.

TtTK Coluimiat or ('oliinas hlaml (SpRnish chart*), in lat. 29* 0' N., long. 160* or 102" E.,
L) not otherwise known. The latter position w.ts crossi-d by Cnpt. I.iitko.

A rrrf, \n 'JO* 0' N'., 1(50" U' K., \\\* not tinco been found.

Vulean I-hnd, on old ftuthority, in l.-xt. 22' 3.5' N., long. ItiO" 0' K.

J,<i Miia oT I.tvmira, in Ut. 20' 2.V N., long. Ifli' i.V E. ; Cnifin Mno samo nnmo inig-
Bpelt), in lat. 21* 35 N'., long. IGO" 0' V.., hare been given on tho authority of tho Spanish
ch.'«rt of 1743, but c«nnot now be rcc'-gnistd.

Ittcierta UUiid, in lat. 20* 10' N., Ion;,'. 10.)' 20' E : and another Dirkrla, in lat. 23* 25' N.,
loiig. IGO* 4.'>' V:, an> unknown, but aro mar to Wak' s I»lan.l, pngo \\2<>,

Olra, in 23' 10' N,, Li;* 0' E., is not known.

^^^^^^i^,«— *-^v

:ti.

1 m

113(1

ISLANDS AXn SIIOAT^S NORTH OF LAT. 20* S.

in May. IHfiS. Uf Acncr'iWn it nn n low, level, wndy iilnnd, covered with
trees nnd bu«hen, nbout '2 or .» mileii lon^, I'',a»t nn<l \Ve«t. No lirenkerH were
visible, extondinp nny groat dinlnnre, from either end; ito width wn^ notnueer-
tniiie<l. The pottition of tlie ^Ve^l end, liy n ^et of «inhL«, wnn 'J T 2-i N,,
IIU' ')8' E., or '.'0 niilei* nnrthwani of the reportetl |)<Miti()» of Weeks Inland,*
nnd differ* from it in not hnrinjj nny knoll in the eentre.

Accordinj^ to Commander Melknnp, l.S. dhip Tutcaroia, I87l,Nfnrcu« hlimd
id about f>0 ft. hijth, nntl Bpi)earcd when Hint set ii like n f«»rent of trees rising out
of tlie water. It was found to be in Int. '-'4" II N., long. \'>\' 0' Iv Heefn
extend a considerable distance off the l',a»t and West ends, nnd n high white
beach, occasionally broken with large black rocks, fringes tho shore. The suif
was very heavy, nnd landing seemed impossible on the northern side. Grcnt
nund)ers of birds were Hying over the land. Nothing was seen of Weeks
Inland.

The position of this fertile islnnd it importnnt and ndiable ; it lies directly
ill the track of whalers bound from the Cnrolines to the Sea of Okhotsk. f

MARSHALL ISLAlfDS 'loi Jardnifi'J.—Tvo small islands were dis-
covered, in 1788, by C'nptnin Marsh.ill, of the ship Scarhorouifh, whose nsnio

• Iftfli hUfid, orininnlly a whulor rcpmrt. w.i« x-rn by Cift.iin (Mrf, in the .V'lrxiii^
AVrtr, ih' llaw.tiian misjiim fhip, on Prmnli^r 17tli, X'^'W. He tirsiriU>i it ss .nli'iut .5
miles lonjf, (IrnM'ly corcrtxl with Ireonstnl shriiMicry, with • whito ssn<ly bvnch and t knoll
ni'.ir till' rcntro. ri'ini; s'"?'!! "00 fiv t iib')vo thi* •■'■i, th'n ili(Tiiin'.j fr"in the il'vrijili jn
(>I Mftnuit I.tLtni. Thon< wero no Kifn^ of inhiliiUnts on it, snd it lO'f ixtcndol to tliv
North of it. Capt. ttrlctt frav« thu poMtioo ss Ut. '1\' i N., lonj;. I Jt' i' V, , *mt it surmt
tlmo.-t rertsin Ih.tt Marcus ani Wetk« Ulsndi arr identirsl.

t 'ITii' foll')»in({ srr ilou^tfui .

U'akfn Iilartii, in Ut. 31" M' N' , lot.- »%., a irluil-r'snoli. i-, ni <1 a rtf/, in .11' IS' N* ,

1.53* 10' K.: an ii/a.«/, in 31' N., HI' l<> . s »«■/, in 3." .S., H7* V K.; i. ...■/,
snnouoii'^1 in the t'him M ol, in lat. 31* 30' N , Imij;. I.j4' 0' K. ; <lii>i>i<-t Utrf, in ^0' \' N ,
luntf. \S{' JO' K.; ami thnv JnuMful shoils in 3P 30 N., 153* K. : 31* IH N., I4i* o' K. ,
arc most pr.'lwl.ly rrp* t tioni tf thi? ismo ii'p<irt.

Several othrrn, which nftd not be rnumorateJ, may 1»» includni in the forof^nin/j. Ths
commitndrri of the I'ncific Msil •t«'Sinor» lii^U-liovi' \<\ tii ir i '.utrnco. It may !•<■ ob»<'rvi4
tUiit hcriMboul th* itronj; currcnta may have c* i».ii vfts \i\<\ ri' koninj', sn'l it \^ piftuble
that th<>y may refer to tho reefs an4 iilets far to the ''V- »t, lying S.)uthuf V.do Oulf. (Se*

pxff.<l 811.2.)

CoHijrft lilatid. in laf. 23* 3u' N., l,r\^. \if^' 0' K, fr.-m wlnlor's icptrt.

J$U»H; from wh;.li r report, in 2.V 10' X., 153' 3.')' K. A rtff, in 'lb' :8 .V., l,Vj« 40' E.

An xttand, from whnl.r r 'port, 'iO' 0' N., 154" 3(>' K.

A rrff, in l«t. 2ft' 42 N'., lo..- 18.V 0' K. : and anoihnr in 20* .10' N., \:>Z* 10' K, miV
rofcr i'j tho name. Nothing' more is known.

A rrtf, in lat. 20" 30* X.. long. 152* 50 , on the charti, has Wn sovrral limoa repeal«l,
»nu onco U a »«>i(/y *.i«*, rnc« also in V'ttt lonjjitudi", *hit!i it prob-iMy erroneous.

20» N.

nd, covered with
S'o brrakcr* wrrr
1th wn<i notniirrr-
wa-i IT 2-1 N.,
f Weeks lilaiid,*

' I, Nfnrcuii lilmul
of Irccii risin)^ out
H i:. Hi., fn
tul n lii);h nliito

I hllOIT. The Mllf

era sitlc. (ircnt
I seen of Wicks

'; it lien ilirrctly
)f Okhotitk.f

^InnJn were «li«-
(/fi, whu«e tmnio

"f, ill the .V'>riitiif
'ilx-1 it i\» ,i)i')ut ';
y Wnrh •nd :i knoll
•ni the liiv tijiiijn
f ixttnilol ti> Ih.'
i' E , >ml It wemi

arr./, inll'lS'N'.,

• :• V K.; i. .,,/,

IH N. lii'O'K. ,

9 foroj^iiini?. Th<»
t niiiy tx' ob.icrv.'d
', nn'l it ii ptHiibl*
•f Vido Clulf. (8<«

MARSHALL, MAROARKT. AND GRAMI'l'S ISLANDS. 1127

ii given to the nrchipolago to the enntwiud. Ihcy hnvo been thought to bo
the »amc ns Loi Dutno* JarJinet of Alvaro tie Sonvcilnv, iu 151!!). Another
group, culled Los Jurdiiicii, was alitd diacovered by Vjiiulobon, in l.)i:J, but the
Bitualion of both of ihcic, (lat. Jl^ to 22', K»«\m \,S3'\ mu«t bo far nwny from
thin part, if even they could bo identiHvd IVihops it would bo better to
name them the Sctirhotomjh Itlantla. Captitiit .Mainhall places them in lat.
21'' 10', lonj(. l')r '^•'^ v.. My whaler report they firo iu lat. 20' .')0 N., Iciij^.
l.')l' 10 K. Nothing further is known of thcni, and their existence is doubtful.

Margaret Islands fyfulitliijonj, n group of three ii»lands, discovered, in
1773, by ('apt. Magec, in lat. 27-' 20', long. M5-' 45'. They have been considered
to bo the Mnlnbriijos (had shelter) of Hernard do TorrcH, in 1513, but there is
no possibility of deciding on the point ; it is possible that they were the Vol-
cano Islands.*

Grampus Islands were said to have been discovered by ('apt. Mcarcs, April
4, 178K. They consist of two islands close together, and a third to the S.W.
of them. Their position on Meares' chart is lat. 25"* 15' N., lung. 14<)"' K., but
Krusen-tern deducts it from liis track as lat. 25^40'. Ion-;. 1 Id 40' E. On tho
Spanish charts the Selusttun Lopez hlanda are placed near this position. The
po.sition thus assumed is open to every doubt, and a vessel passed near here in
1881, and saw no signs of them. lUit some whaler reports pluc" " group of
islands in lat. 25'' G', long. 145-' 44' K., or 143" 44' K.

There are bo many rejiorts ns to the e.xistev.ce of one or more gror.ps lierc-
nbout, although some of them are manifestly erroneous, that it must le believed
that there is reason fur the assertions. There arc no means of fully deciding
about thrm. i

• Marartt JilamU, a wh.lor report, in 27° 30' X., U5» 40' E., are iloubtlosj iutonJeJ fur
Margaret Inlands, but it adda nothiog to their authenticity. They aro prubttbly meant fur
tho Uonin lalaiidit.

t Tree Itltmd, lat. 26* 2' N.. loner. 146* 50' E., ii calluJ a group uf ulamU, by whohr roporf,
nearly in this poBJiion, and Thrr l,littuU by unothor and aiuiilur rojmrt, and ngiiiii ns a
group of isluuds, a degree fartlw( westward, or long. U3* 41', It it v^l>'i ^lucod in 2G* N.,
146" 16' E.

8 .v., 1.52«40'E.

1>:» »0' E, miv

il time* rapeaitd,
■ erroneous.

( IU'3 )

THE ARZOUIsro OK UONIX ISLANDS.

The Bor.in IsliuiiU, the ucxt to the northwarJ, consist of three groups or
chutors, viz., Biuley (,'roup to the Smith, Hocchcy group in tlic contic, and
rany group to the northwanl, tlic wholo oxtcnding in a N. by K. (lirccticni
from lat. JO' M N. to -7 6u N. The cliinntc is excellent, and the soil pro-
dui'tivo.

At tlio tinio of the opening of Japan to eomnieicc, they were made tlie sub-
ject of some remark as to whom they belonjjed, and thorcfurc n few words re-
Sperling this point may not be irrclevaut. There con be but little doubt now
that llu-y arc tho lUine Sinm, or Honiu Sima, described by Mr. Klaprotb and
Abel lU'iuusnt, in 1M7, as being discoTcrod by the Japanese in ir>75.

Krusenstern also states that thoy corresj)ond well with the Ylasdel Arzobispo
of a work j)ubli>hed in Manila many years previously. Ily right of discovery,
therefore, they belong lii-st to Jap;in, and in the second place, jirobably, to Spain ;
the third vi>itor has been the subject of dispute.

Captain v'uflin, of tht- Trannii, of Uristol, in the employ of Messrs. Fi-slur,
Kidd, and Fisher, discovered them September I'ith, 1S24 (not in iHJj, as
was stated in this runtroveniy). His nationality and flag have been disputed.
lie was well known to .Mr. Arrowsmith, to whom he communicated his dis-
covery, and other Knglish geographers, who always considered that he was an
Knglishmau.

Commodore Perry, in his correspondence and report to his government, and
in his paper, read before the New York (ieographical Society, speaks quilo
dubiously on this point. In the latter ]>urt of his work he says that ho is uii
American, but doe:, not allude to tlio account given by Mr. Reynolds, the pro.
jeetor 'unacknowled^'od of tiie I'liited Suites' I'acitic Exploring Kxp-'dition.

('apt. Coffin saw the .*>outh group in \H1\, us kUited above, giving the name
of Fisher Island to the largest, and Kidd Island to the westernmost; to two
others he ap])lied the names of South Island and Tigeon Island, and to the
harbour he u»td he gave his own name. CoUimodore IVrry, l.'.S.N., in iM.'il,
doing what he so severely diprecates in others, has t.uperseded some of ihew;
names, gi>ing his owu name to ."'outh Island, I'iymouth to Kidd Islaml, aiul
Newport to Cothn Harbour. It may be slated that, among other difference*,
Copt. Coffin places the islands 70 miles to the eustward. In the fo.Uuwing year
(IW2J) Cupt. Coffin discovered tho central group, and refreshed in Toit Lloyd.
Kilter Island, " a lump of an island " as he calls it, was also discovered a» tlio
same lime. It was Uiken poswsoiuii of for Kugiund by Captain (aftcrwaidi
Admiral} lieechey, who surveyed the group in 1HJ7; nt that time there were
no signs of the islands ever ha\ing bi-en inhabited. They weru afterward*
visited by Capt. (iuiii, in 11. M.S. liaUii/h, who stayed here 10 dajs in .\ugu»t,
\hlil. They have since been visited by several lueuof-wur, ll.M.>. Lame, ia

f three groups or
n the rontrc, ninl
. by K. iliicctiuii
aud the Huil {)io<

ere made tlie sub-
re a few words ro-
il little doubt now
Mr. Klaproth and
i in lti75.
Y las del Arzobispo
ri^ht of discovfiv,
•robubly, to Spain ;

of Messrs. Fishor,
(not in lH2o, as
ave been disputeii
nunicnted his din-
red that he was nn

s government, uml
:iety, sjJi'ak.H quiie
ays that he is an
HeynoidM, the pro-
jring Kxpeditiiiii.
c. Kiviii-; the naiiio
stenimoNt ; to two
[.tlund, and to the
, U.S.X., in l«5(.
•ded some of tiiDio
Kiild hliiiid, aiul
other difference*,
the following yiur
hid in I'oit Lliivii,
o discovertd af the
uptain (aitcrwaid*
;>t time then.' wcro
y wiTv; itfterw.mU
10 d.njN in August,
, ll.M.>. Liiriif, in

»;V-'

BONIN ISLANDS.

1129

1R3R, Cnpt. Collinson, II.M.S. Enterprise, in 18 Jl, the U.S. Expedition, in
18j4, and others.

It was colonised in 1830 under the direction of Mr. Charlton, our consul it
♦he Sandwich Islands. The white settlers landed at Peel Island June 2fith,
1830, under Matfoo Maz74iro, by birth a (Jenoi'ae, and Millichainp, an Knglish-
man.* With them were two Americans and one Dane, besides some natives
of Oahu. Miltichanip afterwards returned to England. The population at the
IK>riod of ('aj)t. Collinson's visit amounted to 48. In 1876 they numbered 00.

In 1877, the Japanese government assumed che sovereignty of these islands,
ond the Japanese settlers are now cultivating coffee, cotton, rice, barley, &c.
There arc still some Hritish subjects residiuij here. The Japanese nume the
islands Ogaaawarn stma.

The Japan Expedition determined the geological character of ihe group to
be volcanic ; troppoan rocks arc the basis of the islands. Streams of lava yet
are traceable, and basaltic columns aj)pear. Karth(juakes occur twice or thrice
a year, and I'ort Lloyd, the principal harbour, appears to have been the crater
of an ancient volcano, its entrance being a fissure in the cone. The scenery
of the island is romantic and Invtutifid.

When in tie vicinity of these islands, the navigator must exercise consider-
able caution, as the currents, both in direction and force, are uncertain, espe-
c ally between the islands.

Winds. — From January to March, inclusive. westtTly winds prevail, variaMn
between North and South, with occasional calms, the latter month being
showery. From April to June easti'rly winds prevail, varial)lo betvyeen N.E.
ond S.K., with occasional calms ; fogs are frr»juent in June. From July to
September easterly winds prevail, variable round to South and sometimes
8.W., with occasional ealiiis. In July and August it rains heavily. From
October to December northerly winds prevail, varial)le between N.K. and
N.W., and sometimes hauling more to the East or West, in Deeember gales
are experienced from N.W. and West.

Capt. Knorr, of the (ierman war-vessel Ilertha, 1870, states that from Octo-
ber to April the prevailing wind is from the westward, variable iK'tween S.W.
and N.W., with stormy and rainy weather.

The worst winds are to be expieted in October, hut typhoons are rarely ex-
perienced. During July gmd weather is expected, anil in August rain. I ut
no heavy storms. In the summer land and sea breezes prevail; the weather
is generally calm at this season, and when there is a brwire it is mo-sl tre-
(piently from the S.W. — Commander Ifunlimjton, I'.S.S. Alert, 1880,

• Mii/./iirip rtiut Milli(hsini>'« nmmii n|>|). ai in snothor part of thf wotUI. TIkv wito
wntckiid with ( }i)oUrid(?« on tli ! Ci^'zot InUnilH, in thr Iinli.m Oc.ian, ii. M,«rcli, 1H.11 niul
figurt- ill (Jivxlii itfr's " liobiiiiwii Crusoe " aceouut uf th»)ir solitaiy rusidonco ttu-rt".
North i*uci/ic. f ^

^«*.

ifti.

lino

ISLANDS AND SDOALS NOUTII OF LAT. 2(r N.

^ii

ii ^

:,v

As bcfbro HtiUpd, they were sdrvpyotl by Captain nocchcy in 1827, Imt the
soutlu-rn ^ruii]) was inori- piii ticularly cxaminoil by Lioul. O. H. IJalcli, I'S.N ,
in the I'ly mouth, l»o3. Fruiu tUui»u uuU lulcr uccuunts we give the futluw-
ing : —

PAB.RT GBOUP. the nor;'iomiro«t cluster, consists of small islands and
pointed nniks. ami has nujch bnken grounil about it. which renders cnuliim
neeesnarv in approaching it. According to the Kurvoy it extendi al)out '.> milcK
in leiij^th. N.NV, by N and 55.K. by S., ita North vxtruiuity being in hit.
•27 H 3o' N.. lonj;. 142 7 K.

Kater Island, in hit. 27' 30 N., lonp. 142° 15' E., is 8 miles southward of
t lie Tarry group. It i.n a small rocky inland, alwut IJ mile long, N.W. ami
."^,l\ . Mith a coii'ipicuou.s islet, the Eiirs, on its 8.\V. iide, and surrounded bv
locks in «'very dircrtion.

BEECHEY GROUP, the principal cluster of the Honin Iblands. were thus
named by the Knglihh surveyor, lie thus describes it: —

The middle cluster consists of three inlands, of which I'ee! hlnnri, 4} milci
in length, is the largest. This group is '.^ miles in length, and is divided by
iwii ebamnls so narrow that they can only W seen when abreast of them.
Neither of them is naviguble for shipping ; the northern on account of rocks
which render it impassable even by boats, and the other on account of rapiil
tides and eddies, which, as there is no unehoring ground, would most like ly
ilrift A ship <iii the nn-ks. The northern iskind I named StapUton, and tlu-
centre liuckLind, in compliment to Uie professor of geology at t)xford. At the
.S W. angle of Huekhuid there is a aandy l>«y, in which ships will find good
anchorage, but tliey must be careful in bringing up to avoid iKMng carried out
of s<^)undiiigs by the current. It is named Walker Iky. after (the late) Mr.
Walker, of tiie II ydrugraphical ntljce. The southern cluster is evidently lliit
ill winch the wh^K-J'htp, eoinni.uided by Mr. Coffin, anchoreii in 1H23, and lie
was the first to cuminutiicale its position to lliis country, and bestowed his
ttamc u{>on the port. As the duster was, howefer, left without any distin-
guishing ajtjiflhition, I named it after Francis Hailey, Esij., late I'resideut of
the .\stronoiuical .SK'iety.

It w,i» visited by the I .S. Ja|>an Kxj>cdition, in June, IS-SS, and the narrative
iif 1 >r IIawk<'» gives us the In'&t account of the islands. SjK-uking of the IktKrhey
group, he says : — The islands of ilonin are high, bold, and rocky, and evidently
of volcanic tormution. They are green with verdure ami n full growth of tro-
pical vegeUituHi, crowiling up the acclivities of the lulls, from the very bordii*
of the shore, which is, here and there, edged with coral reefs. The heaill.iii'ls
and deUiched rock.s have Ixeii thrown by former convulsions of nature into
various grotoMjue forms, which usstimi- to the eye the sha]>e of castle and tower,
jiiid strange animals of inon.stroiis size and hideous form. Numerous eanal-hk,'
passiiges were observed ojH'iiiug in the sides of the rocky elitls, which had iii
most the appearance of being hewn out with the chisel, but which were cm-

Sis«r

, 20" N.

rONIN ISLANDS— BEECIIEY ClROUr— PEEL ISLAND. 1131

(^y in 1827. Imt the
». IJ. Hahh, r.s.N .
we give thu fulluw-

amall islands and
ich rt'iulcrs cnulum
tt'iui.s nhout ;> inili'»
niity being iu lat.

miles Houtliwnrd of

ionj;. N.W. ainl
ttul suiTuundcd bv

Iblamls. were thus

'! hhmd, \\ miles

ntiil in (lividoii by

J nbrciutt of tht-m.

1 account of rocks
n account uf mpiil
would moitt likrlv
StapUton, and tlic
at Oxford. At the

lips will find gowl
d iKMng carriwl out
fUT (the laU') Mr.
cr is evidently that
fd in 1 Ml' 3, and he
and bestowed \wi
without any di.><tiii-
, laic Trcsidcul uf

3, and the niirrative
kin^ of the llocchi y
(icky, und i-vidi'iitly
full growth of tiiH
ui llur very bordrii
i*.. The hcadhirxij
iotiN of niituru into
of cantlo und to*i r,
iUincrous cannllil..
'IiH'h, whi( h had :ii
it which were cm

■■■;■';■«

dcntly formed in the courRc of volcanic clinngcs, when the rock flowed with
liquid lava, and fouiul i8.sue in these channels, which the torrents that come
down the sides of the mountain in the rainy season toward the sea have worn
smooth by constant attrition. Some of these dykes, or canal-like passajjes,
less affected by time and the washing of the water, still retain their irregular
formation, which has so much tho app<>arance of steps that the observer, as ho
looks upon them, mij,'lit fancy they had been cut by the hand of man in the
Holid rock, for the purpose of climbing the mountain. On the Southern Head,
as it in called, within the harbour of Tort Lloyd, there is a very curious natural
cave or tunnel, wliich passes through the basaltic rock, from the Southern
Head to the beach on the other side. The entrance has a width of about l.") ft.,
and a height of .U) ft., but the roof within soon rises to 10 or 50 ft., where it
has so much the ajipearance of artificial structure, that it may be likened to a
builder's arch, in which even the keystone is observable. There is sufficient
water for a boat to pass from one end to the other. There are several other
caves or tunnels, one of 'vhich is at least 50 yards in length, and pa.sses through
a headland bounditig tho harbour. Thia is uoustautly traversed by thu canoes
of the inhabitants.

The geological formation of the island is trappcan, with its various configura-
tions and mineralogical peculiarities ; columnar basalt appears, and hornblende
and chalcedony are found. There are all the indications of past volcanic action,
and the oldest resident of I'ecl Island stated that two or three tremblings of
the earth, giving evidence of a liability to earthi^uake, are experienced annually
even now.

PEEL I8LAHD is the principal of tho cluster, and on it are two hays, one
to the S.E., which is clear and deep, except towards the head, where anchor-
age may be had; but of course it is oj)on to the prevailing winds. Its heatl
runs nearly up to that of I'ort Lloyd, which is on the N.W. side of the island,
and facing the West.

Tho isl.'i'd is -IJ miles long, and tolerably high, the hills rising in .some
places ' y j^eutle slopes, in others abruptly by steep ascents ; tho elevation of
tho r.:!'* ii' nr the North end is respectively K79 and bHO ft. Almo-st every
v:" e^< ' *• . (.Lreara, and the mounUiins are clothed with trees, among which
tin ar( ■!. <.'.,■ I area and fan palms are con.spicuous. The volcanic origin of the
island u ■ .'ail' manifest from the existence of ancient craters, and ba.sultic
dykes pasm li; through beds of sand, scoria, and cinders, lu 1»7G, the inhabit-
ants were <ti in number.

Otf til' S.W. eiul of Peel Island is h'nnrr Island, with .several islets and
rooks i'. its vicinity, and northward of Kiioir Uiand are the eonspieuous Suit
i;i,c\!i, <)0 ft. high. At \i mile northward of bail Kucks is the entrance to
I'ori Lloyd.

The promontory strcteliing from tho N.W. end of Peel Island and forming
.i' .""^^rth and West sides of I'orl Lhnd. is 73'J ft. high towards its centre, and

i ■

1132

ISLANDS AND SHOALS NORTH OF LAT. 20° N.

I* M

P ^ iK

6i)4 ft. towanU its soutliern ciul. The Bcnwurd shores are bold ami perpen-
dicular. Wi'«tward ^^coulherly) of the latter xuiuinit a reef extends out to the
distance of 1) ciihle from the »hore ; and rather more tliau a cable's length to
the northward of tiiix. and at the distiutue of 2 cables from the shore, is an
outlyinp rocky patch, having only 6 t») 8 ft. wuti-r on it, with deep water all
round. Tliorc i.s also a reef of riK-ks off the N.W. point of I'eel Island.

Fort Lloyd. — Tlui> Nmnll harbour ha-s its entrance' conspicuously marked by
a bold, high promout*>ry >outhcrn Head rJ2 ft. high") on the southern side,
ami r\ tall ({Uoin-sha]K-d rock ^ Square Hock, 2G0 ft. high) on the northern Hide.
It iin, foruieil by coral reefs, kept o|)en by streams of water running intt) it,
and whu'h, in contu'(|uenee of there being 10 fathoms water all over it, i:)
nanuii Ten-tathom HoU. It is conveniently adapted for heaving a ship down,
and on the whole a most desirable place of resort for a whale-ship. In most
of the hmall bays in • 'Mrl'our there are coral reefs and le<lge8. TiJal
waves are not uncommon he water Munetimes rising suddenly 7 ir 8 ft

At 2 cables south-eoittwaii um Square Hoc-k, and at 3 cables southward uf
the riK-ky head on the North side of the eutri^nce, arc the southern edges of
two dnngerous shoal patches, steep-to, and awash with a smooth sea; tliev c.-in
be easily seen from aioft, however, even when there is no swell on. There i.s
also a coral toqV alxiut a cable's length North from the northern jwint of
Southern Head, on which tliere is 8 ft. water, and there are breakers 3 cables
southward of the South side of the same head. Southern Head is an island at
high wutei, and on thu sl()|>e is a beitcon, 20 ft. high, surmounted by an open
tri&ngle.

Huppltt*. — Wild hogR and goats can be procured from the inhabitants, to-
gether with j)0tatoc8, yams, and other vegetables and fruit. Wood is plentiful,
and water can be procured in limited quantities ; the best wateriug-|>lac« is in
Ttn-falhom Hi k', but it is necessary to be cautious of the rhark.s, which are
very numemus Hetween January and .March quantities of turtle are taken.

I)ire< ttofu fur hntertn</. — Having ascertained the situation of the port, steer
boldly in for >S(iuthern Head, talking care, when approaching from the soutii
ward, not to bring it to the northward of N. <7" K., true, nor to shut it in witli
the two I'ajw on the N.K, side of the harbour, which will be seen nearly in otir
with it on llm In-aring In thijt jtosition they are a safe leading-mark, lotho
southward of this line there is broken ground. Castle ICock, within thu hsi-
bour, l>earing l-la*t, leads in.

If the wind hv from the southward, which is generally the cano in the iumnior
lime, a sailing vessel should round the South blutf at the distance of 200 vanU,
close to the sunken coral nxk, which may be distinctly seen in clear weatlur.
Keep fresh way upon the ship, in order that she may shoot on end through thi
eddy winds, which bafllc under the lee uf the head ; and to prevent her conwni,'

b**f'

20° N.

bold and pcrpcn-

I'xlonds out to the

u cable's length to

n the shore, is an

ith dfcp water all

IVol Island.

leuously marked by

the (loiilhem side,

the northern Mv.

c Ix-en at one time

tort there is a •mail

cr running into it,

atiT all over it, is

>aving a ship duwti,

inle-ship. In niodl

and Iwlges. Tulal

su<ldrnly 7 ir 8 ft

ables southward of

southern edges of

iiooth sea ; they cnu

iwell on. There is

northern jwint of

e breakers 3 cables

^leod is an island at

ouuted by au open

the inhabitants, to-
Wood is plentiful,
wateriu^-place i« iii
L< rhark.H, whieh ar«
if turtle are Utkon.
on of the port, steer
ng from the ^outh
or to shut it in wiiii
« seen nearly in one
■adiiijf-mark. 'lotlic
ek, within the hai

t cane in the lummor
I stance of '200 ViiriU,
en in clear weather.
L on end through thi
( pie vent her foni.n;'

HONIN I8LAM)d— PEEL ISLAND- POUT LLOYD. 1133

ronixi against the helm, which would be dangerous. The winds will at first
break the ship off, but she will presently come up again ; if she doea not, be
ready to go about, as you will b« close upon the reefs to the northward, and
l)ut the helm down before the South end of- Gout Island, to the north-westward
of the entrance of the port, comes on with the Weet side of Square Kock, to
avoid the shoul patches south-eastward of Square Kock.

If she oomes up, steer for the high Cattle Rock at the East end of the har-
bour, until a pointed rock on the saudy neck to the eastward of Southern
Ileiid comes in one with u high sugar-loaf-shaped grassy bill to the southward
of it. After which you may bear away for the anchorage, taking care not to
o])en the sugnr-loaf again to the westward of the pointed rock ; this rock ia
white on the top with birds' dung, and looks like an island. The best anchor-
age. Ten-fathom Ifole excepted, which it is necessarj' to warp into, is at the
northern part of the harbour, where the anchor is marked on the Admiralty
plan, in 18 to 22 fathoms.

In bringing up, take care of a spit which extends off the South end of the
small island near Ten-fathom Hole, and not to shoot so far over to the western
reef as to bring a rock at the outer foot of Southern Head in one with some
black rocks, which will be seen near you to the south-westward, llie depth
of water will be from 18 to 20 fathoms, clay and sand. If the wind be from the
northward, beat between the line of the before-mentioned Sugar-loaf and Pointed
Kock westward, and a North and South line from Castle Rock to the eastward.
This rock, on the western side, as well as the bluff to the northward of it, may
be pa.ssed close-to, if necessary. The hand-leads are of very little use in beat-
ing in here, as the general depth is 20 or 24 fathoms.

It is high water, on full and change, at e*" 8"; springs rise 3 ft. The
station on the North side of Ten-fathom Hole is in lat. 27'' 5' 36" N., long.
H2" 11' 30" E. ; some observations place it 4' or 5' farther eastward.

Admiral Collin.sou, C.H., was here in Wi^A, and he says, that in making the
island from the southward, he experienced a difliculty in discovering the re-
markable quoin mentioned by C'apt. IJeechey as the murk for the harbour on
the South side, being under the shadow of the high land ot the back. No
difficulty, however, can be experienced by a stranger making the harbour from
the southward, us the bold blutf on the South side is sufficiently remarkable,
and the two pnps which Capt. Heeehey gives as a leading mark for cleariii"
the rocks outside of the harbour will sufficiently denote iti position. lU^iiles
tliat, among the detache<l rocks to the southward, are two pinnacles, and over
till- remarkable ijuoin, on the North side us you enter, is a triple jKak. We
shot in close under the bluff, but did not see the shoal off it (it will not do,
therefore, for ves-sels to trust to the eye to pick this danger up), and then had
bufiling winds until we opened South Hay, when we edged away to the North,
and came-to off the entrance to Ten-fathom Hole in J.S fathoms ; a better berth
will be found a cable's length closer to the reef ou tiie West side.

^1 Jfc "' •

113 4

ISLANDS AND SHOALS NOUTII OF LAT. '20° N.

! ,

9' \'

' I

'-^gS^

Filton Bay, at the SK. aiiylo of Pool Island, t-nclowd by iMrpcndicular
rocks, is 1 J mile deep, and nearly a mile wide at llu- ciitruncc. There ih jfcxxl
aiichoraffe at the upjnr end in 17 fathoms, sand, nt the tlistnnce of 2 culiles
from the shore, •eeurt* from all whids except tliose from S.Iv, which blow
generally during the summer. On the North side of th<> entrance there is a
large and conspicuous i>lrt, connected to the Noi th hlulF of tlie hay hy ii retf
on which arc several small r«K'ks. ()ut*idc the harbour there arc alsu some
sunken rocks to the southward of the entrnncr. on which account ships ?h.>ulil
ni>t close the land in that direct4(m, so n* to shut in the two pajKs ui the N.K.
angle of I'ort Lloyd} with the South bluff of the buy ; with these object* open
there is no danger. At the upper end of the bay, on tin- West nidc, tlnre in
a small and narrow cove, with 6 fathoms water at the .trance. Fittuu Hay
was frequently visited by whalers for wood :ind water.

From a point near the middle of tip; I'^ifit ^idc of I'ccl Island a reef of rocks
Ptretches to tlie northwnnl. terminating at a !«niall ihU-i in lat. '27 ' AJ N. ; one-
third of a mile to the Dt>rlh-we»tw«rd of the ialet is a detached patch ami rock.
The channel between Feci and Huckland Nlund, to the northward, is unsiifc.
Nearly fronting this channel, 1 tnile wt^tward of the West entrance, is Goat
Island, in lot. '-'7^ 7' N., about 300 ft. high, in the vicinity of whicli are several
rocks and small islets ; one-third of a mile to the southward of Uoat Island
there is also a small group of very low islets.

BucklAnd Island, to the North of Feel Island, and the central one of
Bccchey group, is 3J miles long. N.W. and 8 1'.. At the S.W. angle of the
island, close '.o the oj>ening of the channel between it and Feel Island, is a
small sandy bight named Walker Bay, in which ships will find go<Ml anchor-
age ; but they must be careful in bringing up, to avoid being carried out of
soundings by the current. Deer are said to be found here. The islet on the
West side of this bay is connected to the main by the reef. Westward of the
"West point of liucklund Inland, and fivei-iglilhs of a mile north-weatward of
the i»li.l just mentioned, is Littlr (ioat hland, which is also connected to the
main by a reef. The channel between (ioat Inland and Little (ioat Island
is over half a mile wide, and safe by nut borrowing too much towards ei .icr
shore.

Stapleton Ill&nd, the northernmost of the Hoechey group, in, like the
otliers, uf voicaiiic origin. It lia^ a varied Hurfuce of jilain, hill, and vullev,
with large tracts of fertile hind, when- cotfce is now cultivated. There is a
Bioall bay on the western side with apparently deep water, and surrouiidel by
rocks and mountaniK, the latter varying from KOd to \,'tW ft. in height, whlili
protect it from the S.K. tjphooiii'. A sn»all promontoiy divides the bav, and
on the land bordering the North jiart is a fpring of good water, issuing from
a rr>ek. There are a great many wild gout*, and the »aiuc supplies ma^ ho
procured as at Peel Island.

BAILEY GROUP, the southernmost of *.he Iluiiin Island*, was thus named

20° N.

by perpondiiMil.ir
!C. 'Ihorc in fimA
tinro of 2 fuMcs
S.K., which blow
otrnripc tht're iit a
till- l>;iy by i» rt'if
?ro arc nlno hoiiic
ount Hhijw should
pups (nl the N.K.
lit-se objoetfl ojrti
'< ;»t i«i(b', iImti- in
uce. Filluu liny

n<\ a rcff of rocltH
27' 5 J N. ; onc-
(I patch ami rock.
Iiward, is unsiifo.
■iilrance, id Goal
whicli are BOTcrnI
i of (Jout IdIuuJ

? oentrnl one of
W. angle of the
Pe«l Inland, ia a
nd go<Hl anchor-
g carried out nf
The inlet on tht;
WiBiward of tlu'
)rth. westward of
connected to the
tllo (Joat Ittlainl
I towards vi aer

up, is, like tlio
lull, and valli-y.
id. Tbcre in a
I fturiDuiidc'l bv
in lifij^lit. whirh
K'H the bay, and
cr. ifiKuiiiff friiiii
supplii-8 iiia\ 1)0

was thus named

BONIN IST.AXDS— BAILEY GROUr— FISEKK ISLAND. 1135

by Cnpt. Bccchoy, in 1827. The reBjwctiTe islands of the cluster were named
by their discoverer, Capt. Coffin, aa hereafter stated. " With the proverbial
modesty and justice of . . • surveyors. Commodore Perry replaced the
original names by his own for the southerQinost, and of bis uthcers to the
others."

Fisher Island was named by <^ofRn in 1R23, after one of his employers. It
is called IlilhlHtrouyh Island by Commodore Perry. A survey wa."* made by
Lieut. G. IJ. Kalch, U.S.N., in 1853. He of course uses the ««<• names applied
by the surveyors. In taking his descriptions we have restored the original
names, adding the recent ones in parentheses.

Fisher Island, the largest of the Coffin group, is 7J miles in length, N.N.W.
and S.S.K., by about \\ mile in breadth, and 1,471 ft. high. The greater por-
tion of it is rocky and hilly, and unsuited for agricultural purposes. That
portion of it which could be cultivated is a black loam, and produces sweet
])(> iocs, yams, tnro, and Indian corn, bananas, pine-apples, water melons, and
limes. Sweet potatoes form the staple support of the few inhabitants of the
island. Ilump-back whales resort to these islands from November till May,
during which time they are calving. Turtles are found in abundance in season,
and are salted down by the inhabitants iu lieu of beef. There are some wild
hogs on the island.

Close to the northernmost point of Fisher Island is Devil Rock, from which
a reef stretches nearly a mile to the north-westward. At three-quarters of ii
mile south-westward of the rock is the N.W. point of the island, olf which is
Suyur-loaf Hock, with dangerous rocks and reefs stretching some distance sea-
ward. On the West side of the island, midway between its extreme points, are
two small indentations in the coast-line, off which are two small islets. Ilalf a
mile to the southward of the southern indentation is Pyramid Rock, close to
the shore ; ncorly a mile south-westward from the Pyramid is Painted Rod,
three-ijuarters of a mile from the coast, the intervening area being encumbered
by rocks (one of which is arched) and by reefs; these form part of the northern
boundary of Cojfin llarhour (New-port), au open bay on the West side of
Fisher Island, near its South end.

Stretching to the south-westward from the S.W. point of Fisher Island is a
continuous line of reefs and islets, terminating in a long but narrow island.
The outermost extreme of this island, with its outlying roefs, is 2 J miles from
the S.W. point of Fisher Island ; thence a rocky paVch trends to the north-
westward, in the direction toward.-* Mid-channel Rock, which rock is also sur-
rounded by rocky patches ; half a mile to the northward of Mid-channol Roek
is Kidd (Plymouth) Isltiml, which is a mile long, N.N.K. and S.S.W., and
half a mile wide. Kidd Island fronts and partially shelters Coffin Harbour
(New-port) ; the channel between it and the main island (Fisher) on the North
is deep, and IJ mile wide; that to the South, between Kidd Island and Mid-
eliauuel Kock, is less than half a mile in width, but safe (having 10 fathom.^)

1M«

IST.ANDS AXD SHOALS NOUTH OK LAT. '20° N.

by not borrowinf? t<xi mtich townnU the rock. Whothor the rhnnnol iK-tsvorn
Mi(l-ch«nnpl Ilook and the inland to the »i)uth-ea«twarcl i« nccoMihIc is unror-
tiin ; it Bpiynni by the rhnrt to be considcrnbl)- cacuubcrud with rocky patches
which narrow the jmwuipc.

To the S.S.E. of Kishor Inlnnd, nt the distnnre of 3 miles, is KfUy Filantl,
1 mile h>np, Kant and West, and linlf a mile wide. To the noilh-eastwar(5 of
Krlly Island, at the di^tmee of half a mile, in nnother small island, with a reef
ofT ita Kaat extremity. Scrernl islet.* and a riH'f of roeks alao stretch some
distance northward from the N.W. jxiint of Kelly Island to the centre of ihe
eastcnimost islan<l, making the cliannol l)etweeu th« two t^npaasable. Otf the
Wi>st end of Kelly Island there is a small rot\., and the depth U 25 fathoms.

West of Kelly Island, at the distnnoeof 2 miles, is SbuM (Perry) Iiland, \\
mile lonjs, N.K. and S.W., and al>out half a mile wide. The channel between
South Island and the island to the North is a mile wide ; the islets {Xetdlti)
in the channel near the North side of South Island hare rocky (wtches around
thom ; there is also a rocky ]>atch ihree-({uart4-rs of a mile south-eastward from
South Island, opposite two rocks near the shore.

Coffin Harboar. — With the exception of this and a small core just to the
northward of it, tliere is no place on the shores of any of the islands suitable
for a coal dep<'>t ; nor car cither be recommended as places suitable for such n
purpoae. They are botl >en from S.W. to N.W., and tlie holding-ground is
not g'Mxi, being sand and rocks. Vcaacls could, howcTer, always get to »«"a
on the approach of a gale, as there are two nfe passages, which are very plain.
In the centre of the harbour there apptars to be no bottom with 24 fathoiiiH.
The Plymouth anchored in 14 fathom^, nlnMit half a mile from the head.
Wood and water may be procured here, the latter from a amaU stream near
the heod.

It is high vnter. in Cuffiu Harbour, on full and change, at ll** 32", and the
rise of tide is 3^ feet.

VOLCANO ISLANDS.

This remarkable pTo\jp of three islands lies U) the southward of the n<iriiii
Islands, at from H.') lo 140 miles distant, and forms a oontinuutmn of that line
of volcanic fires which show themselves at intervals from Kamch.)tk.-i souili-
wurd, through the casteni |>art of Japan, and the range of islets ta the S.K. of
Ni)X)n, and then in the Honin Islands.

lliesc three islands were discovrred. in l.')43, by Bernardo de Torres, and
received th«'ir name from tlie vnlfsno on the central one. There can be iio
doubt of their b«'ing the same as the Sulphur Itlandt of ('apt. King, in 177'J.
They were also men by ("apt Krusenst<Tn, in the Naditjnla, in ISOij. On tlie

"•asaS*

10° N.

'hnniu'l b.t^vcon
!Oiikililc it unrpr-
tb rocky patches

Is KrUt^ Ttlanil,
orth-oastwariS of
Innd, with a rocf
l«o stretch domp
the contn* of iho
msnble. Otf the

is 26 futhoniK.

crry) iMlanJ, IJ
channel between
e isleta (AV«(//*f)
y patches around
th-eastword from

core just to the
islands suitnhlo
litable for such a
olding-ground is
ways get to M>a
h are very plain,
with 2-i fathuiuH.
' from the head.
autil stream near

11' 32", and the

ir<l of the Iluiiiii
ilion of that line
anichatka nouth-
et« tutho S.K. of

a de Torres, ami
There can be no

)t. Kin^. in 1779.
in iHd.) On the

VOLCANO ISLANDS-RULPIIUK ISLAND.

1137

Ppnnish charts the northern i.slnnd is railed San Alrxxandro; the centre.
Sulphur Inland; und the southern, iS'<in Auijustiuo. KHpinosa Hays that tho
southernmost wa.t seen in IHd-l, by the Spanish corvette La dmcepcion, and
named San Dioni.uo, a name by which, according to him, it has always been
distinguiHhcd by the Sjjanish navigators.

San AugQBtino (or Snn Dionisiu), the southernmost, is a single mountain of
a square form, flat at the top, about 1 mile in extent, and 3,03'.> feet high.
Admiral KruHenstern's obwervationR (and he was near it for two days) place it
in lat. '2r 14', long. 141° 20', which is T 30" South of that given by Captain
King ; so that unless a fourth island lies in that latitude, a thing most impro-
bable, we must 8U})poso that the error arose from the distance at which it was
seen in 1779.

Sulphur Island, the central one, is about 5 miles long, E.N.E. and W.S.W.,
its centre being in lat. 24" 4G' N., long. 141^ 19 K. The South point is a
high, barren hill, fi44 ft. high, flattish at the top, and when seen from tho
W.S.W. presents an evident volcanic crater; the soil of which its surface is
composed exhibited various colours, and a considerable part of it was con-
jectured to be sulphur, both from its appearance and the utrong sulphureous
smell perceived as the point was approached. Some on board the Discovery
thought they saw steam rising from the top of the hill. A low, narrow neck
of land connects this hill with the South end of the island, which spreads out
into a circumference of 9 to 12 miles, and is of moderate height. Smoke or
steam was noticed issuing from the ground on the northern end. The part
near the isthmus has some biishes on it, and had a green appearance, but that
to the N.K. is vcrj- barren and full of large detached rocks, many of ihom ex-
ceedingly \vhite. Very dangerous breakers extend 2^ miles to the Hast, and
from a half to 1 ,J mile to the Vest, off the middle part of the island, on which
the sea breaks with great violence. The position of Sulphur i^Luul, accord-
ing to Capt. King, identical with that of Admiral Krusensteru, is lat. 24*^ 48 ,
long. 141 13,

From Sulphur Island, both San Alessandro and San Augustino Islands were
jdiinly seen, and appeared exactly alike ; viewetl from this position, they are
perfect cones. From the North, San Alessjindro does not appear conical, ond
the high western end has a rounded outline.

San Alessandro, the North island, is 2,634 ft. in height, 2 miles in length.
North and South, and 1 mile broad, and, when viewed from the southward,
n])pears as a single mountain ; it conical peak, or crater, is in lut. 25"^ 24' 54' N.,
lung. 1 11 ' 16' 46 F., according to observations on the T.S. ship A'er/, 1«80.
Landing may be etfected on the S.W. end. The island is steep-to on its
northern and ea.stern sides, but a depth of W fathoms is found at a mile from
its South end. Soundings of varying depths are also obtained on iu wcstorn
bottom ai)i)ears to be very uneven.

ippt

•ry

North I'lii-ific.

1138

ISLANDS AND SIIOAI.S NOUTIl OF I-AT. 90 N.

hf^i

At IJ mill' W. J N. from the North extrrmity of San AIpMandro Inland,
n !«\ibmaijnc volcano w«< ohwrvi-d from the AUrt. Makmcm of mud mul
anhoH wen? biin^ upheaved, ncconipanied by «lull rei><)rt', and a ntronf^ mlour
of lulphur. lUjill*!* of 10 U) -0 fulhoms were found at half a mile South
of lluH reef, or ixl.md, in procewi of foriuatmn, and there in a poleh of .'i
fathonin 7 J cahle« S K. from it. At night llamen were noticcil iiutuing from
the volcano, llio Alrrt revinitwl the njtot in May, 1H81 ; at thin time it w.is
not in action, hut the [M><<ition w.in mnrk>-d by a crescent ithupcd patch uf diit-
Coi(uireii water three-(Hinrter« of a mile lonjj.

From thene islands tlie voicaiiie cnernien appear to diverpc into •everal direc-
tiouN to the S S K. towanU the Mariana Uland!), well known ns a range of vul-
canic tummits, the intervening npare bcin({ marked with two or three small
reefM, who^e positions, however, ore o|M'n to nomc <louht.*

It also appears to continue to the Houtlnv.ird, towards tlie I'elew I>l(>s, fur
on Decendier J.'i, IHIH. Mr. l.indhay. of the sclnxmcr Amilm, di»eovered an
apparently volcanic island or rock, in hit. I'J' 'JO N., long. 1 IT l.'>i E., which
could not 1h> found by the AUrt, 1881 (»co p. lOfiO). To tlie S.W. there are
evidence!* of submarine volcanic action in the rock "like a sail," seen by the
lieutenant cotniuanding the h'.ui>hrit$i)ne. May 1, 18.')1, and by the eoniinnmlrr
of the /.(fi.Ai. aUo in Is.M; lat. '1\ I't , long, lax ,10 K. lUjimd this wo
have the dangerous Vela, I'areco Vela, or l)ougIoji or Itishop Hock — two choals
often announce*! as fresli discoveries, and a rock iliscovered by Meares of fur-
dealing notorirly A si'igulir phenomenon was exj)erienced by I.ieut. Jones,
commanding the I'.S. ulu ipof-war St. .l/,jrv'.i, in January, IH'iii: when in lit.
I'O" .')fi N.. long. i;51 J6 K.. the wind suddenly died away, the sea bicnme
troubled, the air heate<l, and a suljihureous smell became very iippareut. Tlitii
lastiid nlMnit 'Ih minutes, and then the wind cnnie out as before,
lliesc lost ore further alluded tu presently.

Forfana Island is ^nid by (Jalvanm to have l>een discovered bv the ship
•Sun Juan, iti l.'iJ.'i. '1 here cannot be any iloubt of its existence, though tin-
pcMition may be open to <iuc»itiun. It is saicf to l)c 30 leagues E. \ N. of the
Volcano Inlands. Thi» would give it lat. iiS" 3-1 , long. 1-13 , but it h.i» not
Ix'en found lure.

An island, in lat. 1'^ 4.< N.. Imi;. 1 |i> j;?J K., was so<>n in 1877 fn n tho
v. 8. ship Alrrt, which it was tlioughl might be Korfaiia or ArsobisjK) Island,

• To tho srmthwiinl of the Vulcsno IjJ«ndji are thefoUowiriK Jnu)>t(iilsnnnnnron><>nts:—

A Tftf, from whsler report, i« twio«announoixi m in moMi Ul. 'if 6 N., long. \\2' il'V-
Thf r H. ship Alrrt h»w n<> indications of <li\M(f«T in this locality.

i'rrn, larrff, or Thrri JtUmii, lu Lit. 21' iO N., lung. 141' 40 E., ttinjf be Euphroiyoc
Rock.

laUtta Rr.-f, Ut 21* 0' N . hmg. 143* (V K , it not known.

vmWi^i

*)- N.

AIpMiandro Inland,
[kmcm or mud mill
und n Ntrong mlour

linlf a mtlo S)iitli
<• i» n paltli of .'i
iticctl iiMiuinf; from
)t thiH tiiiu* it w.u
lta|icd patch of di-*-

:< into •evcrnl direr-
1 ns a raiif;i> of vol
iwo or three small

\f IVlow Irion, for
rlia, diHooverid an
lU I'.i E.,Hllich
]u} S.W. there nro
nail," wen by tlio
liy the coniinntxltr
lUyond tills \vi«
) llock — two clioals

by McHres of fur-
>d l)y Lieut. Jitnts,

18.)(» : when in I.it.
y, the Kou iKcanu-
ry npjiaicul. Tins
"ore.

vered by the sliip
st«-iico, though till"
uoH E. J N. (if til.'
y , but it has not

in 1877 fn n tlu<
AricubiH]x> Iftlaml,

tfiil «nnoiinc<>fn'>nfii: —
t> N., long. H.'':^; H

, irnjr ht EuphrMjriK

DiSArPOINTMENT IflLAND— DOUOLAS REEF.

1139

but when the .iUrt reviHited the locality in 1880, it could not Us Been, and no
bottom could be found ut 120 to 140 futhoiun.

SISAFPOIVTMENT or Boiano Island liei about 70 miles to the wesV-
ward of the Donin lulaods. It won seen and named in the Nautilui, in IHOI,
and again on September 2h, 1813, in the Spanish corvette La Fulelidad. It
was also seen by ('apt. M. (luin, in II. M.S. liuleiyh, August 11, 1h:(7, in lat.
27'^ 13' N.. long. 140^ 46' E. Commodore Terry, U.S. Japan Expedition,
places it in 27" 15' N., 140^ .oe' 30' E., or mean 27" H N.. 140^ 52' lo E.

The island '\» about thret'-ciuarters of a mile long, N.E. by N. and S.W. by 8.,
and the highe«t point, near the centre. 148 ft. Around it are several detached
rooks, two of which are a short distance off its extreme ])oint8 ; and a reef ex-
tiMuU one-i'i^lith of a mile to the southward of the soutliernmust one. It is of
volcanic formation, bold, broken, rugged, generally barren, and apparently un-
HU8ce|)lil)le of cultivation, but there are some small patches of green about the
to|). The surf breaks heavily all around it, and landing is impracticable. I'loiu
a distance of 10 miles it appears as two islancb.

LINDA or EUPHROSYNE ROCK Is a remarkable pinnacle, seen by the
Linda and the hup/iro.ii/ne in 1851. It was on each oeca!<ion said to look like
a ship under sail. Tlu- mi'iin lat. i.s 21" ■l."..i N.. long. 140". "iO Iv, but this
]io8ilion rciiuires to be vcrilicd. It was> not found by the Alert, I8til.

Meares lieef ia suid to lie in lat. 21" 0' N., long. IM^ 45' E.

BOUOLAS REEF, or Parece Vela.— Dou^'his Uc« f wa.s discoveied on
September 1 Jth, 178'J, by Capt. Douglas, and is described as.') miles in extent,
in a W.N.W. and H.S.E. direction, in lat. 20' 37' N., long. 130 10 . 'I'licsc
rocks, and thiiNc sren by ('apt. Hishop, in the Xdutiiun, in 17'X'), in lat. 20 15',
lung. I. '}(">■' .') 4 , arc j)rul)at)ly the same as tho.se named I'arece \'cla and \'ela,
by the oldtr Spanish navigators. The rocks seen by the Xuu/iliis, like all bare
rocks, appeared like a vessel under sail, and thus might have been called Vela
(a sail), or i'urcce Vela {i\ sail in sight I). On Anson's chart those hold the
same relative position as the Douglas and Nautilus Heefs, and therefore the
name of Tareee Vela has been added to the discovery of Capt. Douglas, and
Vela to that of (?apt. Itishop.

An American discovery has been announced as lying half a degree to t^ »
North of Douglas Keef ; but its true character and position have been .v.-ll
uscrrtaincd. Capt. B. Sproule, of the Marin, examined it in his boat, March
is, 1847. lie s.ay8 . — I found it to consist of a narrow perpendicular wall of
coral, enclosing an oblong lagoon of deep water. I rowed along its whole length,
which I should say was 2 miles by three-quarters of a mile wide at one-third
fioiu the casteru point. Sharp heads of poinleil coral appeared frequently

l!ii

IltO

ISLANDS AND SHOALS NOUTH OK LAT. 20' N.

throu4(h tho iurf ; and one UoIhUmI rock, about I'i ft. liip;h nnd l.'» ft. hroid,
TiiKf from thf KMioolh water of thr Injjiuin. nriir il« wi-nUrn fxtn'mo, with tin-
rock iMHfiin N.N.K. 1 ji'it tlu- ImmiI through » nnrrow i-hannrl in the reef >,(
not mort- ihnn .1 ft. ; — thin wim the only n])«-ninK I Wt "ud. had it not Urti
very still undiT tho Uh", thin would nrvi-r huTo bIiowu. Hk^l' breakers wire
rolhnjf over tho northern and north -tii-lern part*. When the boat wa« on tli-
Willi I had ;1 ft. water ; hy baekuif; two lengths. 17 fathotnfl ; two lengths mure,
oo bottont with n whole line. The South tide ia nearly ■trni((lit, in nn Iv l\
S. 4 8. and \V. by N. ^ N direction. The rock, when i»e«'n from the nhip, .(
mile» otf. appeared esac. !y like a boal'i* taiine<l lug. ItM poHition is lat. 20" 3 1 N ,
lon^. I3r< 6 K. Nothing enn be more dnngerouii thnn this reef, from itjt ex-
tent ; iu neighbourhood uught u) i." appro»chc<l with the greatcKt caution in
dark and blowing weather, and in the M»>^'h« of .\oTeml)er, DeceinU-r, Januarv,
and part of February. U bluwa rery hard wiib thick weather; but, in fact, all
the puHMige from the Sandw ch I«liui(iit to tk« conat of China re(|iiire8 tlie
greate»t caution. Innumerable up* nn whale* wrie playing about the reef, and
the »ea wan perf.ctly alive with h<«h of many Jcf criptioua. .Sharka were also
TerY numerour.. — .\uuhittJ .\tnyiizin*, l''4M, p. 242.

It woa also seen by ('apt. Ste*^e, of the .S>Aa4/ian Cubot, in 18(57, as a reef
extending in a W.N.W. and K.S.K. direction for 5 tuilea. There ore two
isolated rock^ near ita weatern end; the weaternniost about 20 ft., and the
otlier abou'. l.') ft. alK>re water, di'«tant from each other about a quarter of a
mile. It is n rery dangerous reef in stormy or cloudy weather, as it can be
•cen but a rery shor'. disiauec ; the position of the west^-rninost rock is about
lat. 20° 28 N . long. 13C. 17 K.

Captain I.ud'.vig Saabye, uf tho Ptnj'amin Ffoirarei, saw it and ths breakcri
plainly from the deck, distant about f> miles. He eonsi<lered it very dat gcrou"
I-at. 20 25 N., long. MC 2 E., from gofxi observntiona.

Th« probably correct position will, therefore, be about 20* 30' N., long.
136- 10 £.•

Kendrick Iiland was seen l)y an English captain of tbnt n.imc It is Idw,
and about •> miles long ; lat 24 J.") , long. KH K. A hmall, low i.tland w.u
■een by the brig IJtmr.ah C/te«'fr, in lat. 24" 33 , long. 1.'12'' 40, about midway
between the furegoicg and lU»a Island. It may refer to either, or it is possible
that there may be but one inland. It may b«> the same as Dulorts Itlantl, in
lat. 23" 50' N., long. 134 12 K., or lat, 24^ 50 , long. 134" IJ. The Gcmuii

* At about lO mill s W by K. from tliis the submarins Tuloanic •viUenct'S notioiJ ts
p«gL 113)} worn (all in is.^0.

Buh--p, yauttltu, <iT if la /^<A», wir>' JiiroTor*! by fapttin Hinhop, in the A'ju<«/tM, ia
1T9»'). 'ITiey do not appear to )mv. l.^n *"<u since, l^t. J''' Jn , lunj{. 131' 15'. Ij ut.
h'Aff-T; V HS , psssid over this ponitioit, anJ saw nothing of tbeuj.

'. 20- N.

and I'l ft. hroml,

fxlnMiio. witli till'
nimrl in the r«Tf nf
(I, had it nut h*'c\\
ii^^li brrakrra wiru
the buHt was un tli"

tw(» Irngthn inurr,
trai^ht, in an 1-1 li\
fn from thi> ii|ii|i, ;)
lonislHt. -Jd"^:)! N ,
i> rrcf, from ita ci-
j(rrutc«t caution in
l)cct>nib«'r, January,
vT ; but, in fact, all
China rc(|uirP8 the
5 about tbp rt-ff, and

SharkH were aloo

t, in lHr>7, as a rfcf
It'M. Thi'rc arc twu
>o»it 20 fi., and the
hunt a quarter of a
cathir, nn it can lie
rninust rock ia about

it and th« hrcaker^
p<l it rery dai girou"

ut 20^ 30 N., 1..II-.

i»t name It is low,
Muull, low inland wx*
2"' 40, about midway
thcr, or it i» p<l^^it)ll?
I Dolores ItUtnd, in
»" 10'. The Gcmiaii

ic andencca notiotJ la

hop, in th« SauUitu, ia
, long. 131« 16*. U ut
im.

RASA ISLAND— BORODINO ISLKS.

1111

rrs^cl f'lufta HfiinhiMl m the latter i)osition, and uo indication of land or ahojd
^^uter could be seeu.

KASA ISLAND 'm a amnli, low inland, covered with bu.tliCH, aurrounded
with rockN, and auul to be 4 or 6 milea l(Jn^ in u N.W. and S.K. direction. It
was called liam (Hat) on board the SpaniMh frigate MaytUau, in 1815, but it
had been accn in 1M07 by the French frijjate La Cauuonif'rt. The Int. given
waa 2r 20' 40', and the moan of the two loi.^itudes 130" 40' K. It haa l>veii
alt«o aeen by aeveral otherii. Of thewe uiuy be noticed Mr. Symington, in the
Lancanhiro It'itch, in iK.'iti, who pluce.s it in 24' 2ti N., long. 131 6^ £.
Captain Dixon, of the JoHeph Sf>roU, aaya that it in 3^ miles long, S.S.W. and
N.N.I'!., generally; low, the higheMt part about 220 ft. high, covered with very
abort bruithwood, and having very deep water all aiong ita weHtcru Hide; lat.
24" 30' N., long. 131"' 11' 45" K. lieaidei theito accordant Btatomenta may bu
added the report of Cn\)t. Norville, of the brig Art/t^U, who saytt that it in ii
mile long, with u reef projecting from itM northern hide nearly a mile, ami u
rock to the Euat near the ahore, lat. 24 23 N., long. 1310 £. The barque
Aurora naya it ia 5 milra long. North and South, lat. 24' 29' N., long. 131'' 12' £L
The mean of these poaitiona may be taken aa 24' 27' N., long. 131" 1 50' K.

Ca])t. Knorr, German corvettt^ Ilerlha, 1876, [jlacea it in lat. 24' 28, long.
131" 'ii\', and Ktatcf* that it is 2i mile» loni;, N.E. and S.VV., with Bleep ahorea,
particularly ou thu N.W. aide, where the aeu breuka heavily.

BORODINO ISLES were diacovercd by Lieut. Ponnfidin. in 1R20. Tie
placea them in lat. 2.') .'itJ', long. 131" 15'. They were surveyed by Commodore
I'erry, of the I'.S. Jiipan Kxpedition, in June, 1854. They were found to be
two in numl>er, aituated 6 milea apart, N.N.K. and S.S.W. Tlie aoulhern-
moHt, the centre of which ia in lut. 25° 62j' N., long. 13P 12J' K., ia the
largeat, about 4 miles in extent, KuhI and Wi-st, with a reef extending along
ita South ahore. The North ialaad ia 3 milea iu length, with a riMi ucur the
North end gradually a'oping towards the aeu.

Tliey appeared to be of coral formation, but of great antiquity, as trees of
con.siderablc aize crowned the uplands, the moat elevated part of which may
have been 40 ft. above the level of the sea. The navigation in the imuiediuto
neighbourhood seemed free of (lunger, but no iudentatioua were ween in the
surrounding shore which might all'ord aafc anchoriug-placca. No aigna of people
were discovered, and it ia presumed that the islands are uninhabited.*

• Th« fullowiiif^ will conclude t>ii> lint of doiil.tfiil ikIaikI'' :

South Uuuan Inland, a wh.ilor ruport, in lat. 27* -i N., lyug. XZ'JT 60' E., ia JoubtltM in-
tundud for liotario lalaiid to tl>u enslw(ird.

A'".(a hUnd, a wh;ilor n port, in lat. 'JJ" '25' N., long. l.'iS* .^tV E., is not known ; it Uiuy
by an error fur luiij{. loO" oO' E , uiid so raft-r to A'li.rt JyUnJ, which ia prubablo.

■1^^'

^'iiiaaif^a!ie:si^g!a^gsgggB^i(ggggggBli

EamacwammimamBms^s^^s^^^s^sM^B*^

;- fl \

111

■ M ;

ill

1112

ISLANDvS Scsl'TII-WEST OF JAPAN.

On pnffc T8I wc hare given di^^criptionH of the south -western coast* of
Kiusiu an«l of Satano mioaki or Cap«> (luchakoff. Tlic iKiandn oouthwnrd of it
have l)oen jwrtiully cxaiiunc4 by French ofUcers, and adapted to the Jopancso
chart-* and nsmos.

TANEOA 8IMA, the larffcst wiand to the S.E. off this oajw. ia .12 mlW^
long. N.N.E. and S.S.W., but httlo is kmiwn of it. It is said to be level and
covered witli trees. The Nortli end is in lat. .10 50" N., long. 131^ 3' 30' K ,
and a lieJJvy tide-ruce oxtendn sonu' difttanco otf it. The nurthim jwrt is low,
with i*m'>otb. r»undo<l, uiululatanij hiH» ; the centre and southern end i.s more
clev.ited. the hii:lu^«« peak ix'sng 1.'2<H) j"l hiiili. On lUi N.W. sid«,' in, a nmM
bay, wlure a vessel of nimleraU- »ijto may anchor, in 8 or U futlioois, B.-uiiiy
Inittom.

Otf the S.E point is a confficuon;* detnohed rock, MO ft. hi^h. Mr. A. F.
UoxtT. II. M.S. Jlrspcr, iNtl.'i. njxirted n sUnal of h fnthoinft un lyini; nitirly 7
inile« from thin jtoint, and >n 1^*72 the M<ilt«rn passed thio shoal, and heavy
breakers were ohserTcd about 2 milwi to the N.N.W. of it. To clear thew;
danirerB, the South point of Yaktino sima should not be brouglit westward of
\V. by N. until iht bl^'h rock otf \\w S.V.. |M)int of laiK^a l>ears N, ^ W. Thin
rtvf ha.s l)fi:n inserted on the chaits 'i milet* Jjoulh of .>.l-. rock, but its positiou
is very uncertain.

("apt. Mills, of the ship Maivrm, 1H72. reported havinj; swn henvj* breakers
oii the South side of Vincennes Strait, from which the South point of Tunej;:!
sinia bore N. A K., and the South jioint of Yaktnu) sima West.

Vincennei Strait, between Vukuno (Uina and lano^a 8ima, i.n 10 miles wiilu
in th.e iiarrowcct p.n t ; caution ».■» nec« »»uty in approaching the ptj»it»oijo of liiu
abo-,t>-reporled nhoiili'.

Miiyt mi tima, 5 miles (iff tin- N ^V >ide of Tnne|ja sinm. i< a ^helving isluml,
with a j^umniit 'ioT. fY. hi^h. It- shores are nu-ky, but it is well covered with
^;ra«», and i* uwd as a rearing establishment for cattle and deer. At alxjut
the tiiiddle of tJie I'^t bide id a clump of tree«, near which are a few butt.

A »■«/, in l.t .'3* i!»-, loiiK. i:ir U.' K.

JUm Jiff^'t tik.ttL rrj>..>rt«u 'y I'ttplajn Akin, of tho ship WmrArfl/i, to bo K miii' !"iicr,
N K. naJ S.W., with but few bri»ker» <m il in lino w<*lh.T. i^nl. iO' 37 N , long, la." J 6.
It Kh'julil \k! vhtvtyi-d that N.'verii wi:U.kt>'iwn thijis \,n\c pKMix! <>ver it* pt>iiili(iu.

A jAnn;, m W &»■ N., 131* 3f)' K., «ui uyt fuuni by C»|)l Marsb, of UiC I'ttnmnt &»»61.

Ahff.vjo, lat. 22" 0' N., !nn<. M'T \h^ E., from tho oM 8f>ar.i»h chsrt, h»» not bfwi foonj.
An itUnd Wilt n portod ocar thi« pc«iiion by n whahi;}; veascl, in i'iV £. , Itte Ufiuiiia
Vi nM"! \'\ntta >ailtj over lLi« position.

AmtUriium iiUiU, ii' 'Zo N , 131 u' L., uuy be Uutvsliuu Island,

>Jfif"-

ISLANDS SOUTH-WEST OF JAPAN.

1113

-wc«tcnj conxtji of
idii Pouthwnrd of it
ed to the JapaituM.'

cape, ifl .12 mi Ion
aid tt) be I«vcl ami
ng. Ur 3 30' E,
irtlum jwrt ia low,
thfrn *'nd is mori'
W. sid«' is a niuM

U futhutiui, oaiiiiv

liiKh. Mr. A. K.
MS iyiiif; nitirly 7
•hoai, and hcaw
t. To dear thew
mglit westward of
cars N, ^ W. This
ck, but its i^ositiou

S'n Ucnvy brcokfrs

h point of TuiU'f,':i
•St.

!i, in 10 mlics wi.li;
the {Mj»ili<jiia uf tiie

■< a "hflving i'^luinl,

wi'il covered with

J dt'cr. At ab(]ul

b iirv a few butt.

;>, to bo a milr i'liir,
37 N , long. ia.".i' li.
' lU (K-niUou.

t iLt I 'l»n>««< &IB ''J*!,

I, ha» not bf^wi foonil
i2»< £. , Uko UcMiiWi

The island should be approached with caution, and if intending to anchor off
the East end (the only convenient anchorage), keep well clear of the lan.i until
the summit bears S.W. by W., not brinfjfing it southward of that bearing, to
avoid the recfH which extend 2J to 3 cables from its N.E. extreme. Anchoraj^e
will be found in 7 tathoms, well sheltered from westerly winds, with the villayo
iK'arinp about W. by S. J S.*

YAKTJNO SIM A is about 15 miles in diameter; its highest peak, Mount
Motomi, is fi,:VJ5 ft. hij,'h, in lat. 30° 20' N., long. 130^ .51' E., and shows double
from the eastward. The island has not been closely examined.

Nagarobs, or Yemhu sima (Julie. Island J, 7 miles north-westward of Ynkuno
sima, has an active volcano, 2,0r)7 ft. above the sea. Ita bighet>t peak, 2,297
feet, near the S.E. end, is in lat. 30*^ 27 N.. lonj;. 130' H' E. The iftliind is
about fi miles long, E.S.E. and W.N.W., and its greatest breadth is \!> miles.

Take «ima fJpnllos Island), in lat. 30' 48J' N., long. 130' 2r>J' E., is 2}
miles lopjj, IvX.E. and W. S.W., and about 1 mile wide; its Pimimit, 7-42 ft.
hipjh, beinjJT on the N.E. side. Its West point rises to a conical hill 211 ft.
high, and the wliole island is covered witli bamboo.

Sunki n rocks extend a short distance ofT most of the points, and a rooky
spit extends 2J cables from its East extremity, i he inhabitants haul their
boats up in a smiiU indentation oii the North side of the island. With northerly
winds there is another laiuliiig-iilace on the Pouth side. Indifferent anchorage
may be obtain<'d in the small bight, in 13 to 14 IViihorns, .sand, shells, coral, ainl
rock. II. M.S. Sylvia anchored in 12 fathoms uuder the S.E. end of the island,
but this anchorage is not recommended.

Iwo ga sima ,' I'olcmw Island J, i miles westward of Take sima, is 3 niiloa
long. East and West, IJ mile across, ami its summit, an active volcano, ia
2,331 ft. above the sea, in lat. 30^' 47' 1,0' N., long, i;iU" IH E. A small
portion on the western side is under cultivation. The West coast rises pre-
cipitously, and thence extends as a moderately level plateau for a short distance
to the base of the bamboo-covered hills. Fish is abundant. Large quantities
of sulphur are collected and sent to Kngosima. Some rooks and reefs extend
about three-quarters of a mile n<>rlh-eastward from the N.E. point, and on this
reef is ISnnucle liock, fyh ft. high. Two rooks, Asa.\hi, /JO to 60 ft. high, lie
about half a mile southward from the S.E. point. On the South side of the
island is a snug little creek, at the head of which is a small village, but llio
water is too deep to anchor in , two sujikcn rocks lie a cable otf its West
point.

Yakuro, Koiiose, or PowhnttanRecf. — Thiw dangerous rcoi', in lat. 30° 42' N.,
long. 130" 19' E., was discovered by thft U.S. frigate Pou luttan, in January,
1H60. The greater part of the reef (; about 3 cables in extetU) is above waUr,

* Siv\pho», or (hnuru Rock, was inarkwlKS undor wstor, in lat. 30" 44' N., lonp. 130" 4.) K.,
ttloul 6 mili'8 wwitwiuU of M.i({.> no i-imu, but it A\>k» not ai>j,ioar ou the luUMt churt*.

%s„:

^•^MWI

IWMJiiwMWif '

K.«U.VUAlA^UUI'AnjlWHl.l

■•J.l' l«l

iff:

1H4 ISLANDS AND SnOAl.S NOKTH OF LAT. 20« N.

nnti the centre rock. 22 ft. hiffh. lies -'i miles S. J \V. from AnfiKhi. From it
tho S.W. point of Iwoga ximn bone N.W., the K;wt point N. i W., huJ iha
Fj»»t point of lake sinia .\.K. i N.

Other n»cks were seoii awash, or n few feet abov«> water, stretching out ab(jut
thrpe-qu.iru^ni of a mile from the centre rock.

Use. or Trio h'orkt, lyjjig W. J S, 1 8 rniloK from Two pa fiimn, nnd S.K. by K.,
HJ mi!o!« fri>m Kuro riima, are three dintiijct isiets, the centre inh't. 17S ft. hi^'h,
bcin>j in lat. W IV N., long K<0- 7' K, From the ea*twanl and westward
thov are m lino, umi appear a» a solid tower- The wewU-rn roek is also 17h ft.
high, the cvtem 155 ft., nnd there is a fourth roek. 7 ft. in hei(j;ht, lying IJ
cable to the eaHtwur<l of the others; ih** whole group occupying a space of a
little over 2 rnblt^. ! here ik iitN«p water clo«e to them on all sides.

KUEO 8IKA, or StMiUx Clara, i*. milea W. bv N. from I wo ga aima, in
aXxmt 3 njiles long. Kaat anii Went, nnd JJ miles broad, it« summit, near the
centre. n-i»Qg to « hei^^ht of J.O^JS ft., in lat. ^0^ 49 J N., long. 129" 56 E.
lu slii'tes rtr«> steep nnd rnky. except at the Wettt point. Shelter from S.W.
or s^nulu-rlv sMnds* ui«y Ik- ohtaine*! in \i fathom*, sand and shells, olf a small
%iliagr. in ,\ small indenlaljon nnmediateiy West of the Ka-st point. < ttf the
East point is a pi!ina.';le rock, lf)3 ft, high. I'Jirthnuakcs are often felt .-tl Kuro
Binia, suxd it in iVe^juently Tisiu«<l by hurricanes.*

Kus&klUti lUBa. Jm/frtoJL Mvm.u^n, or l.ortw Kocis. —This cluster of n*-
Kiiu-kalih.> kftlusulti, rwng steeply on ail t\ide«, extend** a little over 3 nules. N H.
luul S,\V., but only a quarter of a mile wide. The lurge«l isiood i» ■'>'M (t
high, the summit licing 1 mile from llse ».>uthera point of the group, in lat.
iW 50 N., long. 12U 26' E. The eastern i»kud u 445 ft. liigh, and on its
Ko-st side »ro a fen hiit^ uacv! by fL^hcnmri.

'Jhe chajinel Ivtwcca the two eiwterninost L*',»nd« should only Vx' used in
caseji of emergency. The sides appwir reijular, th<- ♦loo*! tlowin*; to the noith-
^uiil, and iho ebb »ouLb«;ird. — /,«#tt/. J'mtrc*, H.M.S. .Sy/«ia, larci.

TIIK LIN.SrHOTEN ISI.AND.S.

niis volcanic gronp, consisting of twelve ialanils .\nd ro< k«, «omo of wl.irh
are inluibite«l, eitend.«« I'.'o niiics •*» W. of Vakisno sima. There ap]K>ar to l)o
many safe channels between them, but the matiner ij» cautioned not to pluoc
loo much lb {wndence lither on tlieir configufuHLn* or po^itionw ms shown "U
the chart, for they arc by no meoiui correct.

• Thin smnll urul lufty ialand was on.' of thn matk» um*! by ihfj " ll'urtinxil<;4i " »MiAii:i;g
fii'in Marao to " l.itiiKa«u|U'' " ^Niiu'iMki; in («rly d«\'it. It. i<f fr^tqutntly mrnti"noJ iy

l.lUMhiit*'!) [<U1U>' l.V.>i>,, nl.<l rilHlkl) t|.; ;jl>t& U> dlMt!:K>'l*b 't ti\>ia MlMIl -AIUIA [\l ^14

linmiBy, thu t/thvr Lut(lf.tll

^^^^S"*"

20" N.

A«(»i«hi. From it
I N. i W., and the

trctching out «b(iut

mn, nnd S.K. by K.,
>i«li't. 178 ft. himh,
fi\nl and wostwurd

rook i* also 17H ft.
n height, lying IJ
ipvinjj; a opace of a
all Bides.

lu I wo ga sitna, is
I sumiuit, near the
I., long. I'i'J^ r>C E.

Shelter from S.NV.
)d 8hol!», oil' n <«nia!l
ast point. <>tf the
« uttcu felt at Kuro

-This cluRtrr of rt-
e over ;) miles, N K.
i;;tM*t s«lftO<i i» ■"'Jit* It.
f the group, ii» 1«
ft. high, and on its

lid only W usf'd in
Imvijiwr to the notth-
liM, 1»70.

k k«, «om<' of «).ich
'lh>re np]K»ar to 1)0
ttumid not to place

jHiitionw as shown "U

LINSCIIOTEX ISL AN I )S.

1115

Thpy were entirely omitted on modern chnrto, but they arc clearly shown
'i\ the illustration to the third book of the " Voyage ofto Schijivaert van Jan
Iluygen van Linschoton " (of Knkhuyscn), published at Amsterdam in 1595-6.
Several particulars of the adjacent i.slands are given in this work, but thero
wa.s some dilRculty in applying them. In Augu.st, 18 t5. Sir Edw. Helcher,
n.M.S. Samarany, first brought them to notice again. On August 1.1th, ho
landed on one of these terra incoynitee, the same on the 14th, and met with a
di8a.<;ter. The islands were (nearly) all named and placed on his charts.

{'ontve-.\miral Cecille examined tliem in the I'reiieh corvette. La Sabine,
and lie gave them a st-eond .'set of names, calling tlie range the Cccillf. Arvhi-
jiehujd. The native names have been ascertained, and thus they possess three
di.stinct sets of designation", whieli, for distinction sake, wo must repeat here.
Tlie first the native, the second the English, the tliird the French.

Colnett Strait, wh.,*. oparates the Linsclioten groiip from the group to the
northward, appears j)referal)lo to Van Dienien Strait for vessels bound from
China to Japan. Yakuno sima, being lofty and steep-to, is an excellent mark ;
besides which, better weather is generally experienced in this strait than in
the laitcT. Mcdnm Reef, rej)orted by the ef)mmander of tlie Dutch war-
steann'i Medusa, iStVJ, ax being indicated by discoloured water and high
breakers, 2 miles in extent, North and South, and lying H miles northward of
Firase, ha.s not since been noticed.

Firase {lihtke Reef or Lapelin Rock--) consists of several islets and rocks,
extending about 3 niile.s in a N.E. and S.W. direction; the highest islet, 92
feet above the sea, is in iat. 30' 4' \., long. VMV .'V E.

Kutsiuo sima \^Jend>out or .Vlcmeiu") is l miles long, N.X.W. and S.S.E. ;
it« peak, elevated 2,!2.'}0 ft. above the sea, is in iat. 29'' 59 N., long. 1^9 .'ili E.
Jlenti/ Ri-ef about 2 cables iji extent, on winch the sea was seen breaking
heavily, was reported, in 1872, to lie N.W. J N., ,'5J mi. from the North
point of Kulsino sin»a.

Kohehi sima (Fureadc Kock), rising 996 ft, above the sea, is in Iat. 29^^^ 53 N.,
long. 129'' 38 E.

Hebi sima Dundaiorf>t. Xavier), ."ij miles north-westward of Kohcbi sima,
rises to the hiight of 1 .087 ft., the jK-ak being in Iat. 29'' 54 N., long. 129' 33 E.
There is a small islet oil' it-s N.W. face.

NAK.A SIMA {^rinuacle or Pacifuiuc) rises 3,400 ft. above the sea, its peak,
an active volcano, being in Iat. 29'' 62' N., long. 129" 52J' E. It is 5 miles
long. N.W. and S.K., and .i miles wide. O IT its South nnd S.E. sides arc two
islets, about «.'» ft. hi!;h. A reef is said ti> lie between it and Kutsino sima.

Fira sima {Disaster or Vietorieuse), lying 8 miie,* W.N.W. of Suwa simo,
ll 812 ft. high, and in Iat. 29^ U' N., long. 129^ 32^ E.

SUWA SIMA ( I'olcuna or Arehinu-de) is an active volcano, 2.706 ft, high,
in Iat. 29 o.s N.. long. 129" 42 E. It is about 5 milca long, and 3 miles wide.
Autt/t I'actjic. 7 li

Il_5'l

lUG

ISI.AXnS AND STKVM.S NoKTII <>K l.AI'. 20 N.

Akniii sima Sanuimni/ or A(i)U("li(ki\ ri^inp l.l'TH ft. ahovr llie »rn. is io
lul. J'.' JT N., loiiR. Ijy- ;iTj i;. It i» l milis li'tij;. I'.u.-l ami West. i!,c
sliiMOS luinj; mncrully htrop niul iii;urp>Ml)lo, ix( rpl at oiio place, wiicrc ilure
nppoarii to be some iMiltivaUnl Ir- 1 ; t!ir \N . ^t iiiil is buiil, liigli, uiul tLickly
wooded. A small ihlct lies otF... N.W. I'aee.

SiniRgO ('I'oprr or Sabme ^roiip; arc four small islet'*, the l>ij;lic»l of whir h,
37J ft. abn^e llie sea. is in lat. '.".» \-\ S., long. I'.".*' JOi li. '1 he la^tcnllllo^t
isli t Iwars from it uboul K. \ N.. -l mili-*.

TOKARA SIMA ^/V;jn*// or Toiikaia , SCO fl. above the wn, is in i.it
2'J' 8 N., loii^. 12'' l.i^ K. It in inhabiti d, and the North end is cultivatitl
S«'vcrai rocks ami ii>let-H lie olf it> S.W., I'.ast, and Slv sides.

YOKO SIMA '>;//«■ «>r t'bopatre . n>ii>g to the height of 1,700 fl. iihovo
tbr sea, i,-. an extiiiet volcano, the Iii^Ik'J'I part of which is in lat. 2H'' (H N ,
long. 120 2 K. hiitninciii . i>T Kovalist Island, n small islet, about 1} mile
northward of it, is '.'72 ft bigli. and \oUauic ; two islcla lie otT its \\'c»t side.

J.-

)■*
'f

i
^1

l.rrin. i.if Kir. or i.oncnoo ISLANDS.

Tliis proup of very irrrpularly -formed islands succeeds the I.insehotsn prnn;
to the Houlhwiifii. iitid i'<loiii;s to .lapan It con.siNt* of three large islatniv
Amanii O.i sinia to the N Iv, Kakirounm in the rtiitre. and • >kinawa siiiia :
the S\^^. with niiiiierous smalli-r j-nlanils and rocks in their vicinitv. Ti •-
rhujts are dcMM.l from tin- .lapam-se chart, published by I'. N'on .*^icbolil, r
1H.'J2, and therefori' must not le implicitly ilejx'ndisl on. They have been frr-
(juentlv visited and A- «cnbed. rsjveially by ('apt. Hasil Ilall, who j;ivp« a Imi.-
aeeoant of ihcm ; b\ ( aptain llirchey VojafU' of the lllosmm, vol. ii., chai'
xvji ; and Sir K<lward lielcher Voyage of the Sinnnninij, vol. ii.)

.Mr .1 A. (iubbins, of the Iltitish ('oiihul.ir S<"rviee in Japnr, stutrit tliit
aect)rdin(» to the census ,,{ ls7.S the j)oj>ulatJon was IC'i.yi^O. t4»e area Uid.'
rather leu* than l,(HiO »(piarc miles The importa from Ja|Hin are chictiv rirc.
cotton thread, and provisions ; su^;ar holds thr first place on the list of e\b« rtv
cloth eomint; next. The wri;;ht» and meuMin s ure based on thowe of Jipav
and the currency consists of old copper caah. 'ihu langungu »]>ukeit in clo*< i\
allied to Japanew.*

7V(* nahrti are a very intel!i;;ent-lookinp and apparctitly healthy peoj'i',
and in disposition ar'* milil an<l kiml. In ^{eneral appeuriincc they re«eiub >

* t'tuin an ir.lcitiitiii^' > Mii.ma:;!^.ttiMn, priiitcxi iti litii Socicijr of Arta Juumsl, tmI (xii.,
18bl, (wgv .'>»>>, Ac.

-..*.-

^^^

r. 20 N.

t nliovr tlu' son, is la
l'.!»>l aiiil \Vi>t. t!n'

in- place, wlicrc lliiri'
Itl, tiigii, uiiil lliickly

tlu' liighi'^l of whicli,
\ i%. Ihc tJUtU-niin*!

vp the urn, is in l;it
)rlli end is cuUivaltil.
ides.

ht of l,7l>0 ft. fthoTc

iN in lat. 'JH" 18 N,

1 islet, ahcut 1} m;li'

s in. oir lis V\ c»l sidi'.

■ELANDS.

Ik till' T.iii«chiil«n emu;'
iif ihreo largr islam!-
, and ( )kinawa hiina '
in tlu'ir virinitj. Ti-
1)V I'. \'oii Siclnilil, 1-
II Thcv have hfcn fi-
1 Mall, wlio nivcH a In! ;
■ Illostiim, vol. li., chs]'
ranij, vol. ii.J
c in Japfti , ntutrs t!i t
• '>.'>, 'J.W>. riif urea Uui:
It Juium are cliictly rice,
ICC on the Hut uf ftj><>rr«,
*i'd on tht>«o «( Jipai.
[jgmigo »jK)kfii IS clo»cl)

tnrcntly honllhy [loopV.
|H-uriiiicc tlity ri">fmbli'

f . ( ArU JuurUMl, v.l tin..

LU-niU ISLANDS- AM AM I 00 SIMA.

1147

the Malnyn, tliough they are of a lighter hue. Their dress is nimilar to that
of the Japanese. There are no amis of any kind on the islands at ])rc»ent,
and the little kingdom has enjoyed the blessings of peace for many conturies.
The j)roduct« of the islands arc few, and consist principally of snj^ar, cotton,
and sweet potjUoes. The chief imports from Japan arc rice and tea. — J'loveeU'
inys nf the Royal (ieotjrnphiial ISociely, IST'J, pp. 211 — 212.

Winds. — The lai-chu and Linschoten Islands lie on the iil;.;e of the region of
the N.K. monsoon, but within the limits of the S.W. monsoon ; the cliiiwte is
mild. I'Yom January to March, northerly winds prevail, varitible between N.W.
and N.K. In A])ril the wind is variable from the southward and eastward;
in May and June the S.W. monsoon is steady and moderate, with tine weather.
From July to September, south-westerly aiul southerly winds j)revail, some-
times S.P]., with 8(iualls an<l rain. la September the monsoon changi-s, and
the weather is unsettle<l. From C)ctober to Dcceinbcr, northerly wituls pre-
Tail, interrupted occasionally by fresh gales from iho N.W. or North, with
heavy rain.

During the S.W. monsoon, the Kuro Siwo is felt along the Wc.ot side of
these islands, branching to the eastward through the channels at the rate of
1^ knot an hour.

Hetween the Lu-chu Islands and the ISoniu Islandi very boisterous weather
is frcijucntly met with.

Saiidon Rocks were discovered by the ship J'ixrouni ffatuhu, T>ecemher 8,
IS.")!), on her passage from Singapore to Slianichai. The liii;lR'st rook is about
30 ft. above the sea, with two low d»'taclu'd rocks to the westward, and a reef
between them. At a cpiarter of a cable from their N.W. side was 12 fathoms
water, and at half a mile to the N.W. l.') to 2J fathoms with overfalls over an
uneven bottom. No other dangers were visible. Their position is given an
lat. 28 ■ -41' N., long. 129" 47.i' K.

AMAM I 00 SIMA, Oho sima, Hurhour or Ttungnlow hlatul, is the largest
of the chain of islands lying between Okinawa siina, or (ireat Lu-cliu, and
Japan. It is about 30 miles in leiith, N.K. and S.W., is high, well cultivated,
■ud, from the number of villages seen along the coast, must contain a largo
population. There are two peaks on its South end, l,tJ74 and 1,120 ft. n-
•pcctiveiy above the sea. This island was jiartially surveyed by the American
•quadron in 1856, and by the Japanese in l.sT.'J. The outline of its coasts
appears much broken, and dcejily indented with numerous bights, most of
which are very bold. Wood and water are good and plentiful; but refresh-
Ilicnts scarce. The inliubilants are timid and haMiik's<i.

The North end is high, and benig connected with the main part of the island
by a narrow, low isthmus, it has the appearance, on some bearings, of beiii"
isolated. l'"oul ground appears to extend about 2.J miles N.lv bv K. fr<jin the
North end, and two rocks to rise from it, liio northern of which is 7t) ft. high.
The North c:itreuic of the isluud ib lu lat. 2S" 31' 10^' N., lung. i2'J 42 E.

• t ui

■■rasxssa

.*v

li48

ISLANDS AND SHOALS NOHTII OF LAT. 20° N.

Tlicre is anchorngp in scTeml open bnys on the North nnd West wide* of the
inland, tho«e bc!*t known being Fukau Ilay. Naze Harbour, and Iluucock liny.
Sima-u i\ny, on the Kant conut, also afTords anchorage.

Hancock Bay, a landlookoil inU-t at the West end of Oho Rima, is about (>
mill's long, and from a half to 1 nulo in width, the entrance U-ing Roiiiluvunl
of itiitrka s'^r\ an island about 1,000 ft. high. A ret'f, awa»ih at half liJt ,
extiiids a ([uarter of a mile westward from the West point of Itatekn. 'Iho
depth UKualiy varies betwt-en 27 and 40 fathoms, over mud. This bay w.is
Hurvcyed by Statf-Commander Walker, H.M.S. Iron Duke, 1882.

I'recipitouH hills, of volcanic origin, 500 to l,tOOft. high, surround the bay.
There are iteveral villages on the slioros, but the inhabitants arc \hx)t, tiiiiiti,
and verj- dirty. Wo<k1 and water are eu.^ily obtained ; fowls, egg«, gl>«t^, iind
pig« may be obtained in small ijuantities. Sigo, rice, and sugar-cane art the
principal products.

Sotftaka suki, the S.W. point of Haneook Bay, had a large red lHnii->-lip
on it.s northern Hide Cutrr I'dtnt, -J miles N.K. of Sot«-taka saki, whi-n wvn
from the westward, ap]H<an) an a remarkable coaicol-shapod peak. It is in lat.
28° 18' N., long. IJ'.' IJ 30- K.

llip fairway up the bay to the anchomgen near it- hea 1 is free from dani^rr.
but the outlying point** sliould l>e avoided, a» tlu y all apjwar to have l^(i^'l■'
extiiuling from a half to 1 cable from them. It is high water, on full aiul
change, at 7'' W ; »])ringK rise "J ft.

..V(i:r IIar''ur, about I '• miles K.N K. of Hancock Hay, only afford" an-
chnrugi; dose to the head of the 8<juthern of the two bigbu* ; the other Lij,'lit
is full •>{ n>Lks.

Kageroma or Katona iima, a narrow island of irregular shape, lies parnlltl
to tlie S.\\'. nhore of Oho »«inia, forming a utrait known ait Ohu nima or I'ur-
poi»t Strait, l<i to 12 miles in length, .-itul from thrcequarlern to 2 miles «idi
At its western entrance is Vim-^nneM Hay, a small bay forme<l at the North
end of Katon.i sima ; the entrance of this bay is narrow, and tlu- current stroii^'.

In enterin:; the strait from tiie eastward, choose a mul-chaimel course; the
North shore lia- the leiutt number of »unken n.>ck» off it. A bank of f. to 7
fathom*, coral and hard ground, lies 1^ mile from this entrance, but this bank
is not ^afe to anchor upon. Wart Hock, in the middle of the western entrance
to the strait, is IK, ft. liii:h ; and half a mile S.S.W. from it is a rock awa.>h.
Kuji Mum Hay. on the North sh^ire, has anchorage for two vessels at sin^-:'
anchor, in 10 and 12 fathoms. The bottom is fair holding-ground, beiiij; a
mixture of mud, broken coral, and gravel. I'rol>ably no anchorage in this
strait w (uld \>v secure during a typhoon. It ii; high water, on full and chai)g>',
at ("i' 34" ; springs rise OJ ft., neaps 4 J ft.

luro tima and I'kt tuna are two small islands, from 1^ t<j 2 miles soiithwanl
of K.itona hima ; the former is 1,002 ft. high, and the latter 1,36J ft. In llieir
vie itv are maii\ scattered rocks.

I \

20^^ N.

(1 Weht Hides of I lu'
and Iluiicock Uhv.

\o Rima, lA nhout ('.
o iK-ing Hiiiiiltwiiril

awfijih t»t halt' liJi ,
t of ItaUka. 'Ihe
ud. This buy y^ua

1882.

, surround thr h.iv.
ts arc iKwr, tiiuiti,
rls, ejTKH, pi>«t«, and
sugar-cane ar<. the

large rod laud-vlip
ika saki, whyn seen
peak. It is in lat

i* froc from dan;:rr,
H'ar to have Uti^i*
water, on full niiJ

J, only nfTon!- nti-
tK ; the other Lij,'lit

• shape, lies pnml'ui

Ofiii .iitnit iir I'lfT.
icm to 2 null'!* «uK'.
:inne<l at the North
i tlie current Htri'ii;'.
haniiel course ; llic

A hank of (i to 7
■ance, but this bank
le western eiilr.iiin;

it is a rock awii>l;.
ro vessels at sin^ilt'
n>;-ground, beiiij; a
) anchorage in tins

on full and chaugf,

LU-CnU ISLANDS— KAKIROUMA.

1149

Xikai-ga sima, lying about 15 mites S.E. of the North end of Oho sima, ia
moderately higii, about 7 miles in length, N.N.K. and 8.S.W., and inhabited.
The summit, 807 ft. high, is in lat. 28" 18' N., long. 129° 59f E.

Oermautown Beef. —The U.S. ship Oermantown, March 23rd, 1859, when
beating along the S.E. side of Oho sima, struck on a coral reef said to lie in
lat. 28-^ 16 N., long. 129^ 58' E. From the shoalest spot found, 6 feet, the
highest terrace on Kikai-ga sima bore N.E. ^ E., 6 or 7 mile*. The reef ia
about a mile long, N.N.K. and S.S.W., and half a mile wide.

Another shoal spot was found lying 2 miles North from the centre of this
reef, with apparently a clear possage between. Beefs were also seen from
aloft, extending from 1 to 2 miles from the S.W. and S.E. points of Kikai-ga

sima.

Marsh Reef, placed on the charts in lat. 28° 12' N., long. 129° 54' E., was
reported by Mr. Marsh, in 1853, as lying 7 miles S.W. of Kikai-ga sima, ex-
tending N.N.E. and S.S.W., about 3 miles, with a depth of 12 ft. on it ot high
water. It is probably one of the shoals found by the Germantoum.

Helper Island, placed on the charts in lat. 28° 8f N., long. 130° 15' E.,
was reported by Mr. James, H.M.S. Ilesper, 18fi4, as lying S.E. by S., 18 or
20 miles from Tabiyo saki, but it is doubtful if this latter island exists, at least
in the position assigned to it, at about 2 miles noith-eastward of Kikai-ga sima.

KAKIROUMA, Tuk sima of Sicbold, or Crown Island ot Broughton in 1797,
is about 15 miles long. North and South, and ') miles broad. It is hilly, and
the highest peak, 2,io7 ft., which is near the centre on the East side, is in Int.
27" 4o N., long. 128"' oS' E. It-s northern peak, 1,800 ft. high, has a village
on its N.W. face. Lieut. Carpenter, II. M.S. Maijpie, 1882, states that the S.E.
and South coasts of this island are protected by a fringing reef extending 1 to
3 cabh's offshore, containing several boat harbours and one junk harbour; the
latter 2 miles southward of Cape ()tot»ino, the East point, near which is a
village of some 1,500 huts. The entrances through these reefs are marVed by
I)oles. The island is wooded, and well cultivated. North of Black Poii.t, on
the westci ri side of the island, is a high black clitf, 400 ft. high.

Tok sima Rucks, t^lO in number, I'j'> ft. high, lie 2 miles N.E. by N. of the
N.E. point of Kakirounia Island.

Iwo sima, or Sulphur Islarui, 34 miles W. J N. of the North end of Kaki-
rounia, is li mile long, N.W. and S.K,, and inaccessible. The South peak, in
lat. 27" 524 N., lon^'. 128" 14' E., is 541 ft. high, and is n volcano. The ground
is very rugged, with here and there a thin coat of brown grass. The South end
is of a deep red colour, with occasional spots of bright green.

Yerabu sima of Sithold, or H'ukido of Basil Hall, 17 miles S.W. of Kaki-

-it*')

, )r _

'I'

hi.

2 miles southwarJ
.•r l,;i.Jci ft. In thei:

• In the Amnriran chart Germantoum Rerf U placed 2^ miles 8. by W. \ W. from tha
S.W. oxtromB of Kikai uima. or ia lat. 28' 14J N., long. 12>J° 63 E.; and Marth K«/ ia
ylucuJ \\ mile Bouthwunl of it.

^T"

lloO

ISLANDS AND SHOALS NORTH OF LAT. 20 N.

i; I

j .

rouma. is 9| milos Um^, N Iv nnd S.W., nnd well woo«lod. lu ■oiithcrn \wi\l,
087 ft. hixh, » in alniiit Int. ^7" 2'.'i N.. long. 12H^ .M.V K.

Yori nima, or ^m/o of Hunil IIiill m IHlf., 17 roili»« S.S.W. of Yorabu nim.i, i^
4M ft. hi^;h, wo«k1c<1, nnd nrnrly nurroundiHl by o rct'f wliirh |)rojpoU fartht>t
offiU North iui<4 Kji.tt HJdoK. Iw (niminit is in Int. 27^ 2 N.. long. 128'^' 2(\^ K.

OKINAWA SIMA. or Great La-cha Island, is about 5(3 miioii lon^;, N K
and S.W.. prcs^n*** a tolirrtbly uniform bn-aiith of obout 10 or 12 mili-H, niul
is wi'll inhabited, the jx>puintion nnumntinj? to about 1,000,000 in 1HR2. The
North end is hit?h and Iwld. with wood on the top of the bills. The N.K.
coast it also abrupt, hut cuiiio burn>n. niid tlic N.NV. side rufjpcd aiul bare. The
S.E. side 18 low, with very little ap|H»aranco of eultivation. The .S)«th, S.W,,
and western coastn, particularly the two former, are of nioderntc height, and
prt^seut a scene of ^rent fertility and high eultivation, nnd hero the masa of the
IMipulation reside. The inhabiUints ore both frieiully and hospitable ; the
Japanese (ioveriior resides at Napha-kiang. Sugar, rice, fowls, sweet potatoes,
curumbers, and eggs, can be j>rocured.

There are two (;o<>d hurlMnim, vir.., Nnphu-kiang, and Port Oonting or Mel-
ville, on the West and N.W side. Deep Hay, un the same side, and Uarrow
llav. on the Kji.«.t const, nre nut reeoniinend«Hl.

NAPHA-KIANO, on the S.W. side of Okinawa, is the principal seaport of
the island, and jierhaps tlie only one ])o^se»«in^ the privilege)* of a port of entrv.
The outer harlH)ur. or Napha-kiung Uoad, is prot<'cted to the eastward and
southward by the niamlnnd, whilst in other directions it is surrounded by a
chain of coral n-efs, which answer as a tolerable breakwater iigainst a swell
from the northwanl or westward, but nlFurd, of course, no sheltir from the
wind. The huldin^i-^round is so goixl, however, that a well-fi)und rewel could
here ride cut .-ilnie;st xny gale in safety, llic inner, or Junk Harbour, eAnitm
a deptli of 2 to :i fathoms, and. thou;;h sm-oll, is suinciently lar^e to aceummo-
date with ea^e the fifteen or twi-nty motlerate-siztsl junks whieh are usually
found nioured in it. The town stands on the South shv>rc of an island, facing
the iunir harbour.

The small coral islands lying t miles W.N.W. of the entrance to Nnpha-
kian^ arc called J'zee Kei of SicbohP, and Ueef Islands by ("apt. liasil Hail.
They are four in number, low, sandy, slightly cover d with ve^ Ltutiou, and
surrounded by coral reif».

Siiiit/iiina $aki, or Ahhry Point, tlie South extremity of the road, in lal.
2f<'" 12 22 N., long. 127" 10' 60 K., may be known by its ragged outline, and
by a small wooded eminence, culled Wuud J/iIl, aliout 1] luile S.S.W. of il.
The mainland here falN back and funus a bay, which is sheltered by coral
reefs northward of Abbey I'DUit ; they are, huwever, diseonnceted, and between
them aiKl the jmint is Oar (lianml, sufticieiitly de«-p fur the largest ship. A
reef cstends from Abbey I'oint to the S W , and ahw to the eastward.

'Jlieie are three pussjiges leading into Naphu-kiuug Uoad, vi/., the South,

. 20' N.
Its Bui'.tltcni |uak,

'. of Ycrahu nima, i^i
ch ])r(>jccU fartht'Ht
. lonp. \W ar.i K.

> miles lonp, NK.
.0 or 12 miloH, nml
.000 in 1H8'J. The

liilU. The N.K.
jpeil niul bare. The

The S*)Mth, S.W.,
(tliTiitc height, ami
jcre the miUM of the
nd hospitable ; tlic
«fli, sweet jiotatwn,

irt Oonting or Mol-
! side, and liarrow

irinctpnl soaport of
■» of 11 port of entry.

1 the euAtward and
» surrounded by a
ter iigainiit n swell
u> shelter from the

found resscl could

ik Harbour, canii-a

lar^e to acconimo-

wbich are usually

af an island, facing

ntrancc to Napha-

('apt. liusil Hull.

th ve^ jtutiuu, and

>f the road, in l.it.
nidged outline, and
luile S.S.W. of it.
kiieltered by coral
ecled, and between
c lurge.it ship. A

> eUHtwurd.

l1, \u., the South,

LU-CHU ISLANDS— NArnA-KlAND

iir,i

the Onr, find the Nortli rhnnncls. Orent care is necessary to avoid the
numerous recf« and rocky patches whicli surround it.

Aiiiihe, or IHosxom lieef, about 7 cables N.W. by W. from Abbey Point, is
composed of coral, about 3J cables long, E.N.K. and W.S.W., with a good
pnssaf^e on each side. The South Channel, or Miyako guchi, between it and
Abbey Point, should be adopted with southerly winds and flood tides, and the
Our Channel, between lUossoni and Oar Reefs, with the reverse. Off the en-
trince of South Channel, Lieut. S. Rent, of the U.S. Japan Expedition, 1863,
found two patches of only 2 J and IJ fathoms water; the former named Lex-
{nylon Reef, ly'"B ^^ ■ i ''•' 'J '"•'*' from Abbey Point; and the latter, Soto-
kuna no she, of 1| fathom, W.S.W., IJ mile from the jwint.

Shtn no sh$, or Oar lieef, about 4 cables in extent, lies C} cables N.K. J R.
from Asa»he. Other reefs extend a mile northward of it. Oar Channel, or
Karafunt guchi, between Asushe and Shen no she, has depths of IC to 24
fathoms in it ; but within the entrance is .V. W. Rock, hoving 2 fathoms on it,
6J cables N. by K. J K., easterly, from Abbey Point. Care must also be taken
to clear Ingersoll I'atchin, on which there is only I fathom water ; they lie 8J
cables \V. i N. from Capstan Head, and 1\ cables N.K. J K. from Abbey Point.

North Channel, or Ynmato yuchi, between Jishu Kashc and Inabushc Heefs,
is about one-quarter of a mile wide, with depths of 1 1 to 12 fathoms, but its
southern part is contracted by detached shoole.

When olf Abbey Point, A'umi or Tumai Head, a rocky headland, will be
sren about 1 i mile northward of the town ; and upon the ridge of high land
beyond it are three hummocks to the left of a cluster of trees. In the distance,
a little to the left of these, is Mount Onnodake, in lat. 2G" 27' N. Ukiya saki,
a remarkable rock, which from its form has been named Capstan Head, will
next appear ; and then to the northward of the town a rocky liead, w ith a house
upon ita summit, called False Capstan Head. At the back of Capstan Head,
2J miles inland, is Sheudi Iliil, upon which the upper town, Shury'o, the capital
of Lu-chu, is built.

An abundance of water can always be obtained at the fount'iins in Junk
River, where there is excellent landing for boats. There {.<• a good spring near
the tombs at Kumi Bluff; but unless at high tide, and with the water quite
smooth, the landing-place is imj)raeticable. The town of Xapha is situated on
the North side of the entrance of Junk River, at the southern part of the road.
This river will only admit small vessels, the channel passing between two piers,
each having a fort on its extremity.

The outer anchorage is in 14 fathoms, muddy bottom, with Abbey RIufT
bearing S.W. J 8., and Capstan Head E. by S. i S. ; but this anchorage would
be dangerous with strong westerly gales. 'I'hc best anchorage is in Barnpool,
or Toniari ura, at the N.IO. part of the road, in 7 fathoms, where a vessel may
ride with great security. The entrance to Barupool is between Ikuu Head
Il«ef and the reef otl' Capstan Head.

si'

I1J2

ISLANDS AMI SHOALS NORTH OF LAT. 20^ N.

f f

I'.- 1

It U hi;;h wuttT. on full and rhanpc. nl fi* .12" ; «prin>;« ri«e 7 ft. The flood
•flK l«» the norlliwRrd, over lUimHoin lU-vf, iinil ihr ebb to the aouthwiirtl.

Direotiona.— Ar may Ik? rcailily umU-rwtood. it ia difficult to gire intelligible
diroctionn for thin coniplicntrd harl>i>ur without the rhnrt.

To aail by thf South Clianiu'l. Innwrcn HloHaom ftnd Abbry Uocfa, havin(^
well o;x>no<l ('njMitnn Hood, haul townnU Abbey Ueef, and brin^ the ri>»ht-
hand hummock iilwiut half a point en*twanl of Kurni Head; this mark *ill
lead through the t^outh ('hQimrl, in about 7 fathom*, over the Uiil of Hlowdnj
lleef A reiMiel may now round Abl>ey Keef tolerably cIokc. and steer for the
ancliornfff in 7 fnthotn». about half a mile N.N.W. of Fnlw Cnp^tiin Ihnd,
taking onre to atoid the Jnt/frsi>ll I'ntihti. Should the wind veer to thr oast-
ward in the South Channel, w«th the above mark on, do notdUnd to the north-
ward, unleM U»e outer cluster of trees near the extremity of W.kmI Hill w in
line with, or open wi-«tward of Table Hill, (i nquarc nnky island to the south-
ward of it. Thix mark rUnrs also the tongue of Our Keif.

The foliowitiK directions for the South C'hiumcl are b}- Ijieut. S. Dent, of the
r.S. Ja|>«n F.xi>edition. 18.'>3.

The clearest aj)pr<Kich to Nnj)ha-kianjj Hoad fmm the wrstNrnrd is br pn^sintj
northward of the Keiiima IsLnnds and sij^lilinjr A^'unyeli Ulimd, wliirh will bo
roooj'nised by its wi'il^;i -^hu^)eil uj)po.irance ; from thence steer a S.F.. couric
for the roiid, p!i"<j>in^; on euher sule of lieef I.slaiidjt, n<.* appronehin)^ them,
however, too near on Uie western and southern sides, as the reefs Ih-1ow water
in tht>sc direeti«!n» are siuil to \ye more extensive than shown on the chart.

After clearing the Keef l^lands, steer for \Voo»l Hill on a S S K. bearing
until the notch in the distant hill beurs K. by N. ^ N.. the mark fur the South
Channel. 1 b»s will leiul well clear of iJlosmim Iilt'^f, when the white tomb ami
clump of trees or bushe* soutliward of Kunii Head can be easily distinmiiitlud.
An E. by N. ^ N. course now until Abln-y I'oint is in line with the outer tree*
will cle«r S.W. lC»>ck, when haul up for Kumi Head, and select a berth atmut
half a mile northward and weivlwtird of K,\lm.' Cupstan Head. This chatiiul.
being quite straight, ia l»etter for a slranj^er entering the harlniu than . !.".r
Channel, which, though wider, has the di.sadvuntuge of its being necessarr f<ir
a vessel U) alter her course stirac four or five {xjiuta, just when she ia in the
miiut of ri'efs which are nearly all coverotl.

If the wind be to tJie northeastwani. it will l>e advisnble to beat thrnii^h
the Oar Channrl, in preference to the ."^mih Chiuinel. 'I o ilo this, bring ! al-o
Capstan Head in line with a flat eluHti-r of irees on the ridge to the right "i
the first gap ."vtuth of Sheudi, which will cleor the North tongue of Blowom
Uecf ; but unlevs Table Hill b«- ojK'n eastward of WchmI Hill, do not stand M
the southwiud, but tiek directly the water shoals to less than li fathom^, an!
endeavour to enter with the marks nil. Having pa.s>ed Hlossom Keef, whih
will be known by Wood Hill being seen to the right o* Table Hill, stai.i
tuwardi* Ablxy I'mnt oa eloae as convenient, or on uearing Oar Keef take carg

". 20" N.

rinc 7 ft. The flowl

ihe aouthwanl.

t tu giTC intclli|{ible

ihhry llpcfd, havini»
nd brin^ the ri^ht-
ond : thiK mark irill

th»« tail of llli^wom
ii«(", nml nXi'VT fur the
•'nlw Cnp-itiin llciid,
rind yi-or to tho east-
ot «t«nd U) the north-

of \V.M)d IIill i* in
y island to tho «uuth-
f.
Lif ut. S. Bent, of the

rrotwnnl it liv pn««in(;

Uliiitd, winch will tie

[• («t»»*r a S.K. course

.* iippronrhin^ them,

tho reef* Ih'Iow wati r

own on tlie chart.

ill on a S.S.F,. bearing

he mark for the South

en the wliito tomb luid

)C ea.'<ily di»tinj;tiishi(i.

ne with tho outer Inc*

»d select a berth about

Head. Thia channel,

the harbou than ii.-.r

it« beinj; ncccMiirT fir

iKt when bho i« in the

i-mble to beat thrnii;;h
lo do this, brin;{ 1 aUo
le ridj^e to the n^ht uf
)rth timjjup of JUoswim
)d 11 ill, do not «Uiul t(i
ss thon 12 futhoniH, and
d Hlowsoiu lleef, which
bt o« Tabic Hill, »tai.i
iring Our Uoef ukc euro

LU-CIIU ISLANDS-OKINAWA SIM A.

11. '.3

of n tongue extending to the caHtward of it, and of S.W. Uoek, and be careful
to tark immediately the outer trees of Wi>od Point open with Abbey IVjint.
In entering South or Oar Channels, remember that the Hood sets northward,
over lUosHom Kwf, and the ebb southward.

A good mark to run through Oar Chaimt'l is to bring the centre of the island
in Junk Harbour (known by tho deep verdure of its vegetation) to fill the gap
between the forts at the entrance of that harbour, and steer a S.K. i E. course,
until Capstan Head bears Eu!*t, when huul up K. by N. J N., and anchor as
before directed.

The North ( 'hannel is much contracted by Victorifusc Rocks, a range of dc-
taclied rocks lying otT the reef on the West side, and should not, under ordi-
nary circumstances, l)e attempted by a stranger, as at high water the reefs arc
almost entirely covered. To enter bj' this channel, bring a remarkable notch
in the southern range of hills in line with a small hillock just eastward of False
Capstan Head, S. by K. i K.

From Nnplm-kinng the coast trends in a N.E. ond then N.W. direction,
forming a deej) bight, of which little is known. (iama Safchi, or f'npe
Jiroui/ /if on, off which there is a reef, is the northern extreme of this bight.
From (iama Satchi the coast takes an K.N.E. direction for .")H miles, and then
W.N.W. for 20 miles to Sueo Island, between which and (Jama butchi there is
a deep indentation named Deep Hay.

Deep Bay (at the head of which is the observatory spot of the I'.S. ship
Vandtilia, IK.VJ, in lat. 2(\' 35' 35' N., long. 127 5<r VI' K..') is formed on tho
western side of (ircat Lu-chu, and, although open to tliu West and S. W., affords
good anchorage off tho town of Xui/uh, ab<iut half a mile from its head; for
winds froni these quarters rarely blow home, and if they do they never rai.se a
•ca, as tho latter is broken by the great depth of the bay. The country around
the bead of the bay is fertile and populous.

Suco, or Sctri Island, lying about a (piartcr of a mile from the N.W. coa>t
of Great I-u-chu, to the northward of Deep 15ay. lias excellent anchorage be-
tween its eastern side and the coast, protected from all winds ; and here wood,
water, an<l fresh provi^ions can be easily procured. A reef e.vteuds nearly half
a mile S.S.i;. from its ISouth end.

Tubootch Harbour, a little to the North of Suco Island, is 2 miles long, and
three-cjuarters of a mile wide, partially protected from the westward bv a line
of breaking reefs, with some narrow but tolerably deep channels through them.
The North side of this bay is full of banks, but towards the centre there are
■afc spots with from ■Vl to 1 1 fathoms water, mud bottom. The best channel
il that to the South, w hich is about ?- cables wide, with a depth of 7 fathoms.

O//**' AVo/n, the N.W. point of Great Lu-chu, is 2i miles to the North of
Tubootch, between which and the latter are the small islands named Miiui and
Gibson, with a deep channel between them and the shore. lye Island lies 2
Aort/i J'ucijic. 7 n

.ili-
■I'

£l ;
f ,

,»•?»■'

n.u

ISLANDS AND RnOAl««? NORTH OF I,AT. 30 N.

\l\

mi!'« to the wpntwanl of ('ii|»o Niofn. thr rhannri Wtwrcn WinR rncuni1<rrr<>Bk, ATA ft. Iii>?h, at iu cMti-rn pnd ; othrrwiiip it in
low and Mat Kmrn ("a|>o Niofn th«< auxnt iak«>« an tfi^torly diroction for SJ
null'* to Km Ulinul. m t\\v North milr «if thi- rntruncr to Tort (>ontin((.

Port Oontin{[, or ilrhtlU, it «)n the N.NV. |>«rt of (Jrcat Lu-chii, nnd in
fntninro in lietwwn the w«««tcm aide of hui <»r llfrhrrt Itlaml and the cnsicrn
niili- of till- ni f fionlnij: the |Miiin!i)da, which hitU-r projcrta h or fi milcstoilic
wtstward. having a mniill inlet nour \\% pxtrt'imtv. lyc ainin, or Su^nr loaf
IftJnnd. lyinj; nhotit IJ imlc* westward of the cntranrr, ia a ({<mh1 guide for it
At a little nion< than a mile southward of Kui, and nearly eonnected with it hv
rtrfn. is Yaija-ji or Lyra hlntul. Anchorage ia oLUuited in the narrow utrnit,
nowhrre much more thnn 'i eahlea wide. bctwiH>n it and the land. (J.xhI w.it.r
ran In- ohUiiniil at the villaj:e of OontiuK. which la on the North oide of the
utrait. It \* hi^jh water, on full and ehaine, nt <">* .'J.'i"" ; ttpringn xiw alxiut H ft

It is advi.sahlc to heavc-tcv. or anehor in 'JO or 2b fathoiiia, olf the entrunro
until bvmtn or buoys can 1h' |iiacc»l along the edgca of the reefs iHmkrinK 'he
channel. In «nte inj;. ntcor for the wiktirn nhorc of Kui Inland until Ilt-li
Hoc k in in line with I (ouhlc topped Mount. iiri a dl^t;lnt double-tojiiK-d liiil,
the seronil hi^iu•^l of the ninp' . hearing S.K. i 8. i>teei' in on thm mark,
until Chiiniuy Uoek Inrors H. \ K. ; then for Chimney Koek until iJunkiti
I'oint Iwam t«.\V. \ \V. ; then for timt point until the |>ort ia entered, wlun
ancliii-. l:ivln^' the veasel riMitn to swin^ clear of the reef extending iioitlmai.l
of HHiikin I'oiiit. and she will be iisKnug as if lying in dock, with good hoKliiii^-
ground, completely landlocked, and aheltercd almost entirely from every wind.

Shah Bay, alK)ut 8 miU's K.S.K. of I'ort Oonting, is a beautiful landlocki-d
sheet of wftUT. but the reef fronting the entrance pre%'eiit« itn Iniing accosdibie
to vessels of larger size than the junks which frtvjucnt it ; within Uie entrance"
the water dcejH'iis to I- and « fathoms, the bottom Iteing soft mud. On the
aouthern shore of the bay was found inm ore, minernl coal, andsul])hur. TIk-
coal ap})eared to bo of |K>or (juality and mixed w illi earth, but gutnl ixial tm^^itt
jH'rhaj).t Ih' found by digiring.

The roast from .'»liak Hay tren<l« to the N.N.Iv for 17 miles, nnd rippoar** tn
W void of niu'horage ; it has not Ut'ii miiiuti ly examined, but it i» prol)ab>e
that it is very foul. Cap* Ilrto, the northern extremity of the island, is hillv,
nnd from thence round the eastern shore, as far ob Harrow iJ.iy, thcro Hp|K'ar»
to be no (uichoragc. 6uiiinjuth I$Ut, surrounded by ri'vfs, Uca off the .N . V.. jiJc
of the isliRid.

Barrow Bay is a deep inlet, bounded by shixils, near the middle of the
eastern const of (ireat Lu-chu. liie following description is b} l.ieuttuaiit
(J. 11. Halch, of the I '.S. ship /'iym«uth, 1854 : —

" A reef, of conil formation, and Iwild to appro^ich, commences ft miles from
the South jKunt of (mat Luchu. ami extend)* in an unlirokeii chain, outMii

T. 20 N'.

i» iH-iiifj rncunibrrcl
, Riid about Ij iiiilu
f ml ; otliiTwiiir it in
i-rly (lirortiim for »J
I'orl Oonting.
•vhi Lu-chii, nnd in
ilitnd and the caslfrn
U 5 or 6 milctlollie

■iiiin, or Sujffir loaf
• K'x»d guide for it
cuiinectctl with it In-
in the narrow strait
hr land. (i.uhI wat, r
e North mlu of tic
nngK riw nlMiut K ft
Ilia, off the cnirunre

rwfs lM)rdirin(; the
li Inliind until Ilt-it
I diiuble-toiiiK'd liiil,
Icct in on thio ninrk.

Kuck until liankm
irt is cntcri'd, wlim
i*!(ton>Iin^ iioitli»ai.l
k, with ^ooU hoitliiii^-
•ly from every wind.
bi-autifiil landlocUtl
I iu* l)ein^ accwwiijie

within tlio fnlr;»ncf

!«>fl mud. Oil the
I, andituljihur. Tli^

but go(Ml ixial tn)^>iit

iih*«, nnd ajipoari tn
, but it ill |)ro|mb<e
if the island, is hillr.
liay, there tt|i|K'ar»
licoutr the N.Iv siue

r the midiUo of the
>a in b} l.icutc'uaiil

mcnce« ft miles fnMi
riiLi-ii chain, uuimk

LU-CIir ISLANDS- KKHAMA ISLANDS.

11.05

all the «mnll iilandii, nn fur at the N.K. point of Ichey Iitland, with tho excep-
tion of a narrow channel betwetn tiio iMet off tho N.K. end of Kyoko or
KiKlaka Inland, and tho inland of Taking. Ichey lalnnd forma the aouth-
euHtern point of Marrow May, which iit uftelcHH for all purposes of navigation,
being cipowd to tho Host winds and ocean mwi'I. There in, however, Het-uru
anchorage in about 16 fathoiUH water on the western hvUh of Ichey, and of
llanadi, the next inlet to the ftouthwar! ; thii* j.nchunige in the only place of
•hvlter on the cnNtern connt of (iival Lu-eliu."

Capt. von ( )eHtorreicher, Dutch corvette F.rzhrrrnij l-'rii-diiih, lS7t, reported
apparently shoiU water us lyin^ 12 mileit caHtward i/f the entrance uf Marrow
May, in lat. 'HV 28' 50 N., h.ng. 128 22 21 ' K.

AfathfWi Bay, near the S.M. end of llu? inland, is filled with poral -eefn.
Cnpt Yitkimu, the South end of Great Lu-ehu, is hilly ; it W(mld be adviitablo
nut tu approach it within 2 or I) niileri, a.s it ban not been elont'ly exaniinetl.

Ittltfr lifff v/HH rejiorted uh a rock about .'> ft. above water, Hurruiindvil by
reefs, lying (5 or 8 milcH W.S.VV. from Cape Yakiinu. ItH exirftenee is doubtful,
UH ita description agrees in every particular with Halls Mreakers. ('K|)lain
Zir/.ow, (icrman war- vessel I'inetii, searched for it without success in IKMl.
Hidlt lirruhers is a large, circular, rocky patch, a part of wliidi is above water;
it lie« 7 miles W. by N. J N. from ('aj)e Vakiiiiu.

KERAMA ISLANDS. — To tho westward of the South end of Okinawa sima
are the Kerunia Islands, tliu Amakirriina of Masil ilall in I8l(i, and Kera ^imu
of •'^:!'bold. The group consists of the Maikinina IslamlH, Koru siina, Toka
s^ika sima, Aka siiiiii, Vakaiig l.slaiui, Zamanii sima, and Kupa sima, with
many islets and rocks iii their vicinity, the whole extending '.) miles. North
Ui;d South, and 12 miles Kast and West, t'apt. Malliison, 11. M.S. J/nriiirr,
1840, states that all tho spaces between them appeared lillcd with reefs and
breakers.

Mttikirima hlands, the easternmost of the f^rou]), consi.st of one island •'> 10
feet in height, and two other islets to the northward : I'one Islet, the northern,
in lat. 2C.' 14' N., lung. 127" 2Si' E., has a conspicuous deUehed rock otf its
S.VV. end, nnd must not be approaehcil within a mile, as reefs surround it.
Koru stma, or HadUle Island, .'4 miles N.W. of Maikirima, and the nortliem-
uiost of the group, is 4.')'J ft. high ; oti its N.W. end are a few sinull islets and
rocks, and a reef extends half a mile from its South and S.W. ends. iShag
Hock lies midway between Koru sima and the South rock of the Maikirima
Islands.

Zumami sima, on the North side of the group, is 3 miles long, K.N.E. and
M'.S.W., and is very rugged and irregular t)f outline, rising to a height of o 10
feet. In the centre arc two deep bight*, one on each side. Whale Head, a
small islet, nearly half a mile otf the N.E. side, should not bo approached
within li cable. Aka sima, consisting of three islands, with several inlets and
rocks, lies to the southward of Zumarui ; iLc uuitiicru uiui hiigosl island is Gil

v.-

',t'

ii*.

■"■'i

nsr,

ISLANDS AM. SllOALS NOliTH OF I,AT. 30" S.

foot high. J/o/r and JI'AtKV /iV</« i«pp«>nr aJxivf wntcr ; tlu» fornipr lies S.\'.' ,
1^ mile, anil ihc lulter S. ^ W., 2i niiics. from tl»»! South jwint of the soullivm
Akn Uland.

Yiiiant; Islr.nd, the \.\V. inland, v* nhoMt ft milo in diftm<?t<^r, with n pp.ik
".■)() ft. in 111 luht ; it i!« bordc-rod hy a riff which stretches farthrut olf if..»
North fvid, hnvinfj a rook at it« North oxtromc. Kupa tima, ij nulo >S<.\uth of
Yakati);. io '.'Ifi ft. high, and hus rocf;* projecting from it« N.W. side, and from
the Soijt)( (>oint

Tokftthiki. iho centre i>!,ind of the tcroiip, .'>.':* ft. in hcixht, is vlio Inrjjcut,
K'iiis lu'ariy 5 niil«*s in loiifjfth. North tttwl Houlh. and morc> than a m\W m
width. An islet with a reof extends 1^ mile from it** N.E point, and Chiminy
lUiek, 31. 5 ft. hijjh, with a similar reef, pnijecl-* from tl»o nouthcrn jwint.

Ker&ma Cha/lKel. — .Vnrhorn^" may he had in Ao<ia ura, on the South side
<if /ntiiinii hmr.i, ojipu^ito t)io lii;^'ht in that isliir.d. In npprrt.ichinj^ from the
noithward, take eare to avoid the pateh iyinj; ilf'tlie oa.tUrn point of Zumami.
nnil nearly in mid-channel. .S-reral other patcheu exj»t, of which there »s no
description, (ireat caution nhould, therefore, be used when navif.;atiii^ in tlil^
Jix-ality It ill high water, on full and chatj^je, itt t''' i.l""; springs rise ■')! tV.
ncaj.s J \\.

Tunaabee, '.'),{ ft
A reef extends to a consJder«b!e diMianee from itn North nnd N.W. fi.ic.
Ayhffinak, or Flat Island, lying about 2J miles westward of the North j«.uk,
i^ tncnlv fi rock »'.in-oiinde<l by n reef

KOMISAJfG, about Ji) miles West of Tuna.<<hee, is very irrcg\iUir in hha|i'',
about t> miles long, and the same in width ; its northern peak is 1,10.^ ft in
height, and the southern 1,02H fit,. Ihc we«tem side of the island is f-'in^'tij
with reefs, and a very dnngerouH reef orlends »i miles otf the V^asi «ide, ur.
wliith the «hij) F.liinbtth unJ Ihury was lost. AboiU a mile yff the South eul
of Komssang is a high rwrk

Tu sima. in lat. 'Jfr .i.'.J N.. long. Vlf<' .Ol' K , lies N. hy K. ^ V. , i.!J 'nilc«
from the North j>eak of Koiniwuig. It is a rocky inlet, alwut (in ft. high, rni;
(juarter <if a mile in <'Xtenl. witli a reef surrounding it.

Agnnyeh. a wedge-»hape.i iwi.'ux), about .1 milen long. N K. and S.W , nnJ
.'<ii<i !t iiiirli. lies N.N r,,. l.i nulls t'loni Tuiiashee,

The MONTGOMEEY GROUP, connisting of twf) large islajids. with sevml
islets and shoals near them. ii>f» !.'» to l*> miles NW. of Cape Ileto. ',ho N i:t!i
jMiiiu of (Jreat l,u-chu. }V/.ryc< sima, the largest and northern island, 'Ji';'' It
high, it* 7 iiiiii's ion;.'. .N K. by N. and .S.W. by W ; otr it.s southern end a n'ft'
eMendit J.J iiiilcf* to the S U'., having an ulet about a mile from t'tn- -.liore,:!! 1
a rcH'k, nwafh, at itn extreme. Iftna simn, the ••outhern island, i^ iilwiit 4 "'
fit't hitfh. with n small detached rock alxjia I mile K.tst of it. }''in«yt /•<''.
southward of Iwcnu sima. is about .'lO ft. high, \\uU a reef otf its N W. side.

20" X.

h»' former lies S.\'.' ,
wint of tht< uomln'iii

iiK'trr, with a j)o,\k
chps farthcHt ( If it.»
wrt, i J mile S».nu!\ of
N.W. si'li". aiul from

i^hu is Vlio larjjtvtf,
more than u niiif m
point, and CliimiK'y
»i>iith('rn \>oint..
'I, on the SuuUi diiit
prarhinj^ from thi'
rvi point of Zuiimini,
if vrhich ihero is mo
?n navigating in tlii^
; eprireg^ riso .'j^ (V.

ifl aV»oiit 2 m»!<*«i ii.

the B<iuthcni fiO.J ft
th niu! N.W. fi.io.
1 of iLf North peak,

■y »rrog\ili\r in hhajc.
peak is 1, 10.-* ft in
he isiaiiil is f-'in^'ol
tr till' h]A»i i«iiJi\ of.
ilc yff ttc South cui

by K, i, r. ,i:!{'nilo«
Iniut tin ft. hiyl), iiu-.'

N.K. and S.W . :ir,.l

i#laii<i«. with Hcvin!
'ape Hfto. the Nurth
rihrrn islninl, 9<''M ft.
.s southern end o wd
e from the ^Jiore, ml
I islaud, II alioul iW'
of it. Yinnifi /mV',
'otfits N.W. mie,

MEIACO-SIMA ISLANDS.

TliN ^ip"n'i^>, boloTiging to Japan, form.v the westernmost portion of a chain
of isliiidft o.itciiding in an en-iterly and north-easterly direction from Formosa
to the southern extremity of Jupan, and is divided into two divisiona, I'a-
chvmg-8an and Tai'-pin-san. Ilesidcs these there is Chung-chi Island, a high,
uninhwhited mass of rocks, with dangerous patches ext*nding between it and
the S.W. point of Ku-kien-saa, about 8 milea to the N.K. ; and to the W.N.W.
of Chung-chi is Kumi Inland, conspicuous by the jiecuiiar sharpnesH of its
lofty peak, 700 It. high, and tf»ble base. The whole group is clothe<l with
vegetation, and horses and cattle are abundant. The following description is
chii tly derived from the voyage of II. M.S. Samarant/, ('apt. Sir E. Uelcher.

These islands lie in the monsoon n gion of the China Sea, the S.W. monsoon
blowing from .\j)ri! to September, and the N.E. monsoon from Octolwr to
Miivch. Typhoons a-e experienced from July to October, inclusive, and aome-
times ia November.

KUMI ISLAND is composed of comlHnc limestone, and all its ranges nre
capped with trees and bru-hwood, but, excepting the pino fir, whicli contains
a grcAt portion oi' resin, none attain any size. I'luTe are four villages on the
island, ons on the West, and two en the North side, one of which is inland,
in a basin shaped valley. The princijMl town and port is on the North side,
but the entrance is so narrow and shallow that vessels can only enter or leave
lit spring tides ,ii\d with very snioolh water. Temjiorary anchorage, in fine
weather, may he. found on a Bandy ledge northward of the town.

A danc/grouf shoal, 3 miles in extent, E. by N. and W. by S., wa« reported,
in 1843. a« lying N.W. by W , about iO miles from Kumi. lireaken have
also been seen, apparently on a d-mgerous .shotnl. extending K. by S. and
W. bj- N., and beari.'ig from Kumi .S.W. by W , about 10 miles distant. No
inilieation:i of these shoals were seen from the .ship I'liloty in IbdO, or from the
steamer IlenleUi, in IhTO.

Buudroaet Rocks, in iat. 24"^ 10 N., long. 122* S3 E., were reported by
M. l.?ou(irouct, of ihr French vessel lioebur. lHf.>l, as being a group of rocks
()."i ft. high, pei-peniiii'ul*i- on all sides, and the whole ubout lUO yards in length.
Jliey were not i-een by Ci.pt. Ross, 88. lUnledi, 1879.

The PA-CHUNO-SAN OHOUP, or western division, consists often ishindii,
i>f which ?iv(> only are at uilineuuuvinous ; the remainder are flat, like the cotal
islands in iho rucific, and similarly belted with reefs, which connect them into
a disitiiKt group. Ku-kicn-.san and r.-i-chving-sai;, the jirineipal i-ilaiulM, atl'oid
several eomtiK)dious harbours, and are, with good charts, quite sufe of approaih.
l\y[l lladditigton, on the West side of the latter island, would shelter a largo
(lief, but it abound.* with coral patches, rismu suddenly frtmi lOor 15 fathoms
almost to the surface; lu clear vveather all thouc having as little as b fathoms

iff

i (

v. I

Si
Si 4

1158 ISLANDS AND SllOAI.S NOrvTII OK I, AT. 20" N.

¥ ;

arc clearly JisccmibU', ami iherfforo onRilj nvoidtnl. Kxci>pt on llio Horthorn
Bide of Ku-kion-san and the latter port, watt•rin^ would Ijc found very ditli ult.
OS reefs oxtrnd a irn-nt diKlnnrr from the mouths of the Btr^nins. Siymnur
/?<iy, at the S.W, tingle of Kukion-san, must howorer be excfpted, for lliere
a fine ftream enters tlu> >*a in det-p water, ami a vcswcl nu^ht be moored tuffi.
cicntly clone to lead the ho«<^s from the jmuipi* iuio bcr, without the inu-rvcn-
lion of lM>at* and eswks.

KTT-KIEN-SAN ISLAND, or Kishiomota tima. in \^i miloi lonfr. and 12
mik> brt>.'ul, nnd iXb highest peak i» about 'i.iK>0 ft. ab<no the sen. With refjHcl
to the TariouB harlxnim of Ku-kten«an. there are two or three mhipled for
shelter for Hmall retwels, or even those drawing is ft , where a refit might be
uceoinplished in ^ttill water in any nion^wn, or where stenm-TrMeU might lie
wfclv for the purpose of obttining wixxl ; and there uiv two other ojwn li.'Us,
will hheltereti in the N.H mon«iV)n. aduunilUy adapted for watering ; but tlwro
is no other induet ment to risit tliiB island. All tlie dangers are well iiiHikod
by the coral fringe which extends about a cable from the outline. Uatomn
lima, a small i!<i.ind 2^ niileit aorth-costword of the North point, is uboul in ft.
liii;h. nnd encircled by a reef *

Hasyokau, SamitrrurHa stma, or Sandy hland, nlmut 1 I niile« .'^.1' i>f
Chung-ehi, i.s 3 miles long. E-ist and West, and ii;w a few trt-es and huUj or; it.
Ileefs appear t^ extend about a mile all rouml it. and there is said to be no
Kafe channel between it and Chung-chi. huuixih, lioberton, liaui/h, ImjUtirid,
atid Lonftf liLimli are on tht reef connecting Ku-kien-s.in with I'a-chuiig wii,
the IftttiT island Ixins: nU.i ci>nncrtcil, by nuiiuTous reefs, with ILmukan.

PA-CHUNG- SAN ISLAND, or Iihifaki •ima. is Terr im-gular in outiiii.%
terminating to the N V. in a long, narrow jwninsula, the extreme North |Miuit
of which is Atiami Point, or lIirakul>o Miki, in lat. '24' 38 N., long. 124" '2ti K.
'I'he i.-^land is fring«*d by u coral ret-f, ami is connecUsl to Uie alxjve inentii>ii<Hl
i.tlanda by a plateau of conil. lis hit;iu'Ni part, mar tiie centre of the jhihu-
(lula. is l.TtH) ft.. !md there ore two other |K'aks of l,500 und l,2ihJ ft. re»jn.c-
lively, the last-mentioned U-ing near .\dum»> i'oiut.

Broughton Bay. or Minyoshi minato, a snug little anchorage on the S K
side of i'u-eliung--a!i safe only, however, during the N K. monsoon; is u|iin
to the ifjulhward, hnd utfords only space for •mall vckwIs iKtween the ncfs
extending from the shore. In appnwching from the we»iwnrd, us Chung-ciii i»
neared, Hasyokan will ntxm be seen, and, avoiding tlie space northerly of a lino
Ixiween it und Chung-chi. a vessel may safely stand on, jiassiiig within 1 mile
of the southern Hunt nf lla-yokaii, and work for the S.W. angle of I'tt-cliuii*;-
san, avoidiiig the reefs which extend (roui it in a direct line 8.W. to U.uuikiu.
A high rock, named .South Kock, will |Hjint out the outer n-vfs of ra-chun^-
win. The dangers bet* > en it ani I'a-eliung-san must be avoided by tlie evf.
the shoaU being visible in 5 or fi futhonin, and the s<'H breaking uj)on thone of
2 ,wid 3 faihoaiB. The •■peiiiii^' ii. the ixx-f ib lu the heaituf u deep uidcuUil:'!!,

. 20" N.

pt on llio northorn
fiiuiul very difh ult,

•xc-rptod, for Uiere
hi 1)0 moorid »u(ti.
ihout the iaU;rvca-

m»U»« lonp, iind 1 2
L' Hcn. With ret.]«ct

thrre adapud for
re a r«f)t ini|;lit be
n-vf«iol» mi^ht lie
ro other op«n hays,
vatcriiifi; ; but tiicro
r« urf wt'U iimrkcil

oullitje. Jidl-iiwt
oint, 18 ttbout 10 ft.

t 1 J miU>« S.K of

rfe> ui»d huta or; it.

c in said to ho no

, Hauifh, fn^Ufifiil,

with i'a-chuii)^ Mil,

rith ilasyukan.

Irn-jriilrtr in outiinf,

trfino North piunt

, Kmg. 124" 211 K.

f rtlHjve-inontioiKHl

nlro of the [h'iuh-

I 1,-'U*J ft. rt.>|»c-

oraije on the SI!.

inwndoon} i« opi'n

Ix'twefn the nvh

rd, lU Chiinft-cin i«

nurthcriy of a l.iio

«Hiti^ within 1 null.'

idifle of l'a-cli'.i!it;-

S \V to U i»yoL.iii.

iffs of I'a-chuti^-

■ iidid hy thf < yt",

kin;; uj>on tho«' of

i>.f p iiidcututtuii,

MKIACO-SIMA ISLANDS-PORT TIADDINOTON.

1159

jnst northward of the h)w S.W. point of the island, and it has apparently a
ci-ntre bnr. The riirht-hand opening is the proper one.

From the eastward the dangers are clearly visible. After making the land,
edge along the southern and eastern breakers until the abrupt turn of the
breaker Une is seen, at which moment the extreme S.W. point of the bay will
open. The breakers have regular soundings off them, but the course in will
probably lead in 7, 8, or 9 fathoms, deepening to 14 or 15 fathoms off the inlet.
As the breeze generally blows out, it will be advisable to send a boat to find clear
ground off the opening, and shoot up and anchor; the vessel may tlien be warped
in. Hut if merely intending a cursory visit, the outer anchorage appears good.
At Hroughtun Hay, neither wood nor water can conveniently bo procured ;
and the only reason for notieing it is, that a port of refuge with still water, in
case of disaster, may be found on tliis side of the island, if a di.sabled vessel
could not beat round to the more secure harbour of Port Haddington.

There is a passage from Port Haddington into Hrougliton Hay, which was
used by H.M. shi])s Liiy and Conttxt, in 1H52, but it abounds with coral reefs.
— Comtnamlrr J. W. S/nm-cr, II. M. Sloop Contest.

PORT HADDINGTON.~No Rafe anLl.jiage is to be met with between
I5roughton Hay and I'ort Haddington, which is on the West side of Pa-chung-
san ; altliough during the S.W. monsoon there arc several good bays on the
northern side of the island, where anchorage might be found, buteertamly not
adapted for refit.

When rounding the north-eastern extremity of Pa-chung-san, the two low
coral islet* of Mitsuna and 'J'ar<tra ought t<.) be avoided at night, but the dan-
gers by day are clearly deiiotid by breakers. To the northward of these islets
the ground is foul, an<l the Samaramj WJis compelled to tack to the westward
in 7 fathoms, at least Id miles North of them. They are surrounded by reefs,
and Sir Kdward Heleher strongly suspected that extensive Ixuiks or ledges of
coral connect tluse islands with Tai-pm-san ; and a good reason for this offers
in the f;rct of their lu'iiig ineluded by the natives in the Tai-pin-san group.

I'roceeding from Hrougliton I'.ay In Port Haddington, after rounding the
N.E. en>l of the I'a-chung'san breakers, and running to the westward the length
of the island, haul close round the N.W. angle, and edge along southerly
within about a mile of tlie breakers. The port will then open out, into which,
with the prevailing breeze of the NM-'. monsoon, it will be necessary to beat.
Olf Hamilton Point, the North point of the port, which is in about lat.
24"V{5' N., long. 124' f.f K.. will be seen a remarkable little rocky humm»ek,
upon which was left a large pile of stones. The bottom, for more than a milo
off the point, is rocky and dangerous ; but as all the dangers off this port are
visil>l(> from aloft, there is no risk with a proper look-out. The inner parts of
the port have numerous shoals, but there is still sutlieient good anchorage,
where a vessel will be landloeked. Two rocks were reported by Lieut. LuanI,
U.N., but he gave no marks for determining their position. The iiui,uiiH,t<j

mam

wmmm

-3;

l( '

IICO

ISLANDS AND SHOALS NORTH OF LAT. 20" N.

anchored about a mile or lets within Hninilton Point, in 10 fathoms, clear
bottom. It if* high wntcr, on full an«i change, at G*" 45" ; springs rise 7 ft.

This is ft most convenient port during the N K. monsoon. It i.* lanillorkfd,
it is true, but thej-e is a long f»-tch for the sea with a S. W. gale, aud in that
iHMson t\i)h<K)n»t are saiil to bo very violent about this region.

In apj)roaching Port H-iiUlington from the westward, round the reef which
extends 1 mile olT Hamilton Point, and shoot into 15 fathoms. The chart ox-
hibits several awkward pntchi-n. but a vessel can threntl her way between tlicni,
if the sun Ik* bright, as all the shoals may easily be traced from aloft.

A convenient watering-place was e.otablished by sinking a cask and ^uspenil-
ing the suction-hose of the pump over it, to prevent the sand from being .sucki 1
in. Wotxl is abundant, and the jxtsitioii is further prefer.ible by being so f.ir
from the villages as to prevent the authorities from feeling alarmed.

I»ht</ttki JIarhour is a safe and commodious .anchorage on the southern shc^rc
.->f Pa-chung-san, Ix^ween it and the reefs which connect the island with
Vol)crton Island. It is o{>en to the N,\V., and probably is, therefore, not si
shclUTed as Pitrt lI.i.Mn'.u-'.cn.

TAI-PIH SAN GROUP.— The islands composing the Tui-pin-snn 'or Tv
ping-«»n or i-.isteni diM.-ion. are Tai-pinsan, Ycr-r.i-bti. Ku-ri-mah, Corunii,
and Hummock Island, all connected by extensive coral reefs. The two inltu
Mitsuna and Tarara, Ix-tween Taj-pinwin and I'u-chung-san, are »iai<l to bo .t
continuation of the reef* which extend to the N.K., North, and N.W. of 'tai-
pin-nan. and on which H.M.S. I'r,)iulfu<f was lost in 17'.»7.*

Tai-pin »an laland is suiTounded by an extensive chain of coral reefs, upon
which the i»i.itid'> of Ku-r\-mah, Yerrabu, Coruma, and Humtnotk resjHTtivtlr
are situited M tlic West, N W , North, and N.K. I he reefs do not project hr
westwzird from Ku-n-raah, unleM in jwtches unconnected with the main ixlt
Off Verra-bu th« y t xtend 3 or 4 milcM, but cloae towards '\in north w<voiirti
angle a deep-water char.uel adiiiit.i ve-^stis witltm the belt up to llunira xk
Ishiml and into the mai-« harlmur of Tai-pin-san. The reefs .igain -pit mil •■\
the S.W. angle of foruma, and sweep northerly, as far n» the eye can k.u ..
(from li") ft. elevation;, round to I'.asl in continuous lines of breaker", h1j,m.;
in towards the t* K. extremity of Hummock I»lm)d, ami it Wits on x\\\r\ reef th ;
II. M.."^. J'rovtiUnre w/w. wrecked m 17'.^, A high patch of rark* lies un tit
N.K. angle of this outer belt, probably lu miles froui the iiorthtni jKiiiit i.;
Tai-pin-san.

Safe anchorage during the SW mnn«<vin may be fouml inside the roofs f

• VKIMAH l.Si..\Mi, «ilh oil isKt tu th.- N.K. uf it, •lul pUc«d on ihv iturt 17 ii.: *
•outhwsrti ui Titi-pin-ian, la not otLcrwiim known. It wam xArchftl for in v.vn t-r •'^u K.
Uflch»-r in l^H, and wm not wen ly th.- I'.S F.ijt- .iiin.n. l.^.V; liow. vur, (..'ap'ain > n
Kfich", of the (ttrm»n nhip 'vd'-p. r.jxirt* that ttie nativen »«>• tl»i» i!<i«iiil, *i iih i>. »
name Ouini Aka sims, does vniA, »iiii •>
»U,ut 300 f.-wt bigt.

'. 20" N.

1 10 fathom*, clonr
spring!* rise 7 ft.
I. It i» laniilockfii,
. gale, and in that
on.

jund the reef wliirh
urns. The chart ix-
•r wi\y between tlicni,

fri>m nliifl.
; a cahk and cuHpeTnl-
iid from being siicki I
■iible by being so f,ir
p ah\rnicd.
m the southern shore
lect the island with

is, therefore, not si

Tiii-pin-Mn i'or Ty

Ku-ri-uinh, Ciirumi.

foefs. The two iih t

•Min, arc caid to be ■>

th, and N.W. of Foi-

in of rond reefs, ujwn
l!u m mink rei>jK»ctivf !r
irfs do not project far
irith the tnnin WU.
xdn its ni>rlh vvi".li'rr\
lult up to Mumnv'tk
reefn .iigHin »pil out u
«« the eye c.in u.^^i
fH of breiiiter*. < il^;ui..:
t wiw on thin rei'f tUit
I of roek« lie* "it thi'
the uorthern [mu\ ^'.

II. 1 inside the reefs uf

«c«?<l on i-h'' <hjrt 17 mCt-t
ch<-«l lor m t.vo t< Sn >'.

y thiit i»iiit.l, wi iih Ih >
a*. Ihw UtKt«t wf »'"'■'' ••

■'f

MEI.\rO-SIMA ISLANDS.

IIGI

Hummock iHland, and also safe in the other monsoon ; but for a sailing tcsscI
the passage in or out at the latter season would be attended with risk, in case
of sudden squalls or gale.s, and numerous palehes beset the whole eastern side
of Tai-pin-san. The pouthcrn coast-line, from the S.E. breaker patch to the
S.W. anchorage, does not offer many dangers if a tolerable look-out be ob-
served. The reefs do not extend more than half a cable from the shore.

There can bo no inducements for any vessel to visit Tai-pin-»an ; neither
wood, water, nor any other necessaries could be procured.

('apt. llern.sheim, of the (lerniaii ship li. J. liobrrtsnn, wrecked in July,
1873, near Typinsan, reports that the reef, which on the Admiralty chart is
shown as almost surrounding Typinsan, extends from the southern point 7
miles, instead of from a half to 1 mile as there laid down. Providence Reef,
to the northward of the island, is said to be of less extent than shown on the
chart. The cliannel West of ( 'orumah (the true name of which was stated to
be Ykima) is, according to the natives, clear of danger. The island near tlic
S.W. point of Typinsan, which on the chart is named Ashumah, is called by
the native.^ Fimah.

The only harbour of Typinsan is in lat. 24' 40' N., and is difficult of approach
for large vessels, as the reef extends without a break from Kimah to Erabou
Island. The entranee used by junks is North of the latter island, and is clear
for vessels coming from tlie N.W. a.s far as the parallel of Krabou. Larger
vessels mu.st anchor there behind the reef. The harbour lies about 4 miles S.E.
of Erabou, and is readily reeognised by the Coimcil House, covered with red
tiles. — McrcunliU Maritu- Mayaunc, May, 1H7I. p. I.'],'*.

Directions. — ("apt. (Sir Ivlward) Beleher, H.M.S. Samarang, December,
181 }, says •. — Great caution is requisite in approaehing the Meiaco-sima group
from the N.lv, East, or South, particularly with fresh breezes, and in the ab-
Bet\ce of the sun, by the aid of whieh reefs below water can be detected. They
are, from their greenisli luie, being covered by seaweed, less distinct than at
other places, and, therefore, where they are not marked on the chart, it must
not be presumed that the space is free from danger ; the lead will not afford
timely warning.

Appriniching the group from the S.W., the island of Ku-kien san from its
gi-eut h»i;.;hi. will be tir.M (li>*tini,'uislied, presenting a round-backed summit
closely elad with trees; knolls occur, elevated '_',()()() ft. above the sea, but as
they seldom present the same ap|i( anuic<', owing to those nearer the ^oast
eclipsing ihcni, their accurate measurement could not be obtained; Adam
Teak, whieh may be noticcil on the south ea>tern outline, was determined t<
be 1,2<"K) ft. As the island is neared, the high rocky basaltic island t)f Ciiung-
chi will show out when the western limit of Ku-kien-san hears .\.E. by N., and
working lor this islet no danger can be feared, and should night befal, all the
space oi\ tlie N.W. of Kti kien sun up to the island of Kumi is safe.

iig:

ISLANDS ANT) SIIOAI.S NnUTII OF I-AT. 20 N.

"Iho Samarautj ••ntercil th»' Rroup from tlio wcdtwunl, paiwin); within 2 mil. j

ul the MMiiluMn ncfH or ImakerN off IluMokun or Sandj IiilumI, and .si 1

on (-lotehiiiilcil to thi' catitward, intendinK to uiiikv Ykitna. and beat tip Uuv..
it to 'i;ti pin-snii. On the morning' following, not Mtoinj; Vkiinn ^ which in kiin
pohril not to exist), nnd llio wtuthor very hoiuli rou*, Hhe Htood on to the west
ward to m't under the Ice of I'a chung-f>nn. itnd endeavour to reach aome place
of Khilter. On ncnrin^ t)ie latter i»«h»nd dhe ran dowu the eastern audsouUurn
aider*, to tlie notitliwestcrn cstremity of \Xk reef.

Here wan a harrier of orcakers as fur an the eye eouhl reaelt from the mnnt-
honil, and apparently ronncclitig Hasyokan UUml with the Kroup of largiT
ijtlamls. An o|>riiinf;. howerer, was found into the leef, and after duo examin-
ation the vewel wa» shi^t up into l.'i fathoni.s, into Hrou^hton l!ny, and warpid
into a snug jx>sition, where she wax nu)oreU with juat i»uHicient room to swini;,
the depths up to the coral ledges varying l"ron» 13 to 7 fathomH. I'pon luar-
inir the S W. pari of Taipin-aan, tiicked twice, ratlier close to two off-lviiii'
patchea, and ohuiining soundings with lo fathuuis, a boat waa sent ahnd
Ipon a given sigTuil, for " <langer liiseovrrrd." the anehor wh« let go, ond 'he
vessel found to be in a secure U'rlh. in \1 fathoms, the boat being on tlie riifs
It is merely an indentation forme<l by the reefs connecting the western inland
with Tai pin-snn, and is ver\ unsufe, a heavy sen tumbling in with a souihiri\
wind. The ObscrTatorT at the S.W. angle of Tai-pin-san ^at the most con>'
nunt landing jiLui' within the nt-f;. and the last rocky point towards the in!.-
sandy bay i> in lat. '1\ A'-\ ij N., long. 1-'.') 17 t".> K. Tai pin-saii !.|i(ii. ,:
not be aj>proache<i at all on it* northern side, and reefs arc biiiJ to citcuii 7
miles southward Mf th«- S<nitli poml of the island.

To the northward of the Meiaeo Mtiia group, ;;nd north eastward of Formfi«.i,
■re wveral isleU* and roeks, appan-ntly voleanie, wliirh have bt eu oiilj pr(i)Hi:\
known of late )'«'ar-, and even to tin prewnt tune their correct nuiiiber .li. :
j>o«itions are not absolutely deteruiined. Tlic prinei|>al are those tt
ward, lioapinsiiand I'innacle. and the Tiaiisu Uland.s, the>u being alxn,',
l.'i miles a|>Mrt, in a N.lv and ."^ \N' direction. \\"itliiii this space are sever,.
rei fs, and alihotigh a ik;ife channel exists betwei-n lloa-])in-su and the I'inn,ii'
Islanil'*. which are J miles apaii, it ought not on uceount of the strtHj^tii :
the tide- ih stioyiug the slcerajje^ lo be attempted by ^alllng ve.^^e!s il a il.
Ite :»Voidi d.

HOA-PIN-SU it the «<uith westernmost, nnd is about 0.^ miles to the K N !
of Killing ll.irl.our, at tlu' North end of Kormowa. The extreme hii;.'lil
llou ]iinsu is 1.1 HI ft., the inland apparently In-mg cut away virtually ;it I . ■
elevation, on the vn;thern side, in a W.N W direction ; the remaining jsirti ::
aloi^es to the enntward, where the inclination furnishc<l copious rills of excii-
lent water. 'Ilie North face of the island i^ in laf . 'J') l7 7 N.,long l'.';t;?oJ Y
Then are no traces of inhnbitanis, mdccu the soil is tiisutfiticut for the mav-i-
tinunce of half a dozen persnus.

i*^

\T. 20' N.

RALEirill UOCK— RlirnUTT IST.AXD.

lic.;t

poMinK within 2 milt «

idy laluml, Hnd ,-t I

tna. and beat up frii:.
Vkimn ^which In »ii|i
( stood on to the west
iir to reach some jjlufe
L* eastern and souUu rn

I reac'li from the mwt
ti the Htroup of larc^r
and ttftiT duo examm-
hton liny, and warptj
Hicu-nt room tn switii;,
fathoms. I'pon mar-
close to two off-lyin:
b*)nt wa» Hcnt iihcKi
lor WHJi k«t ^1), niul 'he
)oat bciuff on the rtifs
n^ the western islaini
ng in with a touthtriv
an \_iit the most coii>'
point towards ihf Im:
C. Tai pin-san !>h(n..u
I are tuiiJ to cilcu«i 1

I eastward of Knrmfni,
i«vc 1)1 «'u (iiil_\ ptojK r^j
r correct nunilttr ^i.i

arc thiisc to tilt' wcM
idit, i\\v»o l)eing alMi,'.

tliiH sjmce arc scvir
in H>i and the I'lniiai •
lilt (if tlu' >lnn;;th '

ihtig vcaftcU if It i.u.

•».'> miles to the I', N '
lie extreme hn^ilii
away virticaiiy ;it U.-
the remaining ]Hirii :.
copii>u8 rills of vxo.-
N.J.mt,' rj;) ;!(ii I
uthcicul for the ni^uii-

The Pinnacle Oronp, which is connected by u reef and bank of Roundinj^s
with IIoii-pin-8u, allowing a channel of about 12 fathoms water between it and
the Channel Rock, presents the appearance of an upheaved and Hubsequently
ruptured mass of compact gray coluumar basalt, rising suddenly into netMlle-
sliapc*! pinnacles, which are apparently ready for disintegration by the first
disturbing <;au8e, cither gales of wind or eartln^uake. On the summits of some
oi the Hat rocks long grass was found, but no shrubs or trees. The rocks were
iverywhere wlirttned bv the dung of marine birds. ,\eeording to the chart,
tlie reef on which these rockti are bituuled e.\tind» G miles eustward aud 4 luilcs
nortliward of lloa-pin-su.

Ti-a-usn, bearing N.lv, l/i miles from IIon-pin-i,u, uppcnrs to be composed
of huge boulders of a greenisjj porphyritie stone. The capping of this island,
iVom about fiO ft. to its summit, which is about 000 ft. above the sea level, is
covered with a loose brushwooil, but no trees of any sizo. Its centre is iu lat.
■Jo" .Obi N., long. VIS' -10 E.

RALEIGH ROCK.— The existence of this rock was considered doubtful
before July, 1K.S7, >^•llen it wa.s seen by il..M.S. ludi-iij/t, bearing S. l W.,
distant 12 or 14 miles. Its position by her reckofiing was about lat. 25^57' N.,
Iiiii^;. IJr '1' Iv, but later authorities placed it 9 farther eastwurtl. It rises ab-
ruj)tly from a reef to a height of '.*(( ft. above the sea, is perj)eut!icular on all
sides, covers an area of probably (10 ft. in diameter, and ap|>ears in the distance
as a junk under sail. It was ;»lso seen by Sir Ivlward Helelicr in 184.').

According to (oiiiinunder Hullock. who examined this roek in 1 Stiii, it is in
lat. 'Ih' 56' N., long. 1-4 ol K , rising abruptly from a reef to a height of 270
feet above the sea.

Recruit Island. -.\t about ;!0 miles eJistwurd of lialeigh Kock, .-uiothei-
hifly island was apparently lirst seen on .March 11, 18til, by ('apt. J. [,val!. in
the /ifcruil. It a|)peured, at a distance of 10 miles, to be <io(i ft. in hi-ight,
the .-^ame size and height as Ti-a-usu. It was again sciii ii Isil;} and lst)4 by
('apt. Iv. 'i'atehell, in the brig Speedy, and he says that wh-n it bears Wist, 12
miles distant, it has llu' appearance of two rocks, (apt. Ciowdace, in the ship
J\in>j Liar, describes it as only 90 ft. hi;.;!!, rising vi-ry abrupt; and when
bearing West, northerly, a small roek standing erect, like a piilar in ruins, was
seen detached from the North tide. The four observations f^)r its position
coimide very nearly, and give a mean of hit. 25" 57 40 N., long. 124 4:5' E.

it seems most probable that this roek is the same as llaleigh J{ock, the
widi ly differing positions of which, as announced by vurinus vessels, may bo
due lu the inllueiiee of the Ivuro Siwo, or Japan Siii;im, in wliieli it Ins.

iiV I

* I?

V.'

til

( 116< )

This will conclude nur descriptions of the islands of the Nn th I'ncifie
Ocruii. The rt-ador hiis bt'cn brought uround iu shores from F.tjimtorial
America along the sea-boards of its American and Ajiatic boundarioN, paM
countries of most widely opposite chBracteri»tic8 ond interest. The islandu
which lie between ihctw ct>a»t« have aim) been enumeratinl and dcHcrilu-il. and
in thi»8e varied nubjoct* wo fi-el how j^cal ho* been the increase in our know-
ledge and in their imiwrtance in the interval of 35 years, since the first ediiion
of thin book wBs ijwueil.

The rontinuition of it» western limits is inrluded in the companion volumr,
the Ihreetory for the Indian Archipelapo, China, and Japan. The various
arehipelo^oeH, the Thilippine Inlands, and the ea.Htem gnmps uf tlnit ^rrat
innuliir world which bounds the I'acific to the westward, arc there fully de-
scribed.

' I

)f the No ih I'ncific
res from Ktjuntorial
aiic boundarioN, past
[iterest. The islaniln
h\ and dcMcrihi'tl. and
ncrooMC in our know-
since the firat edition

e companion volume,
Japnn. The various
groups of tliat f(re»t
1, arc there fully Je-

R.H. LAURIE, M. fLEET STRt

w *ij J «--

Norton S^

15iO

A L A S

K A

Vfilli"""

o ms'Kiuu

-■t-

CkutirfuiU

'HirUdj^m

HUDSON i '"^ter*

-r -^-"ir^

i*«*.

Sitka V
Q.Charlotte l^^^f

ChurduU F'

fxn

gJK^

Sar*"^

<©i :r tm

WUVUMH^

Vniicinw''' '

, - <> _• SKmHnrh li*
^.^...^.^'^ !^ .

TRADE

0/?

i,c of Cjxi^'C nf*

Wind in \ March

WIND

iiidrif'''

TV'.iM- >JirA' / iJevenibtsr

fr^ruttry

« t'hi-istiniis 1 .

'Jfirvis J

,(l3tnw

r XKim

''"*»»«,«

<^ vt a 1 o r

A S f

^ Maldtm I.
• Stiirhuck I,

„ . If fetwiun J.

16|o

AD E

AWnftVa.- Mai-quesas Vf

-.' -*

1*0 13k)

"srl,.

'lou

■s — *>.,- \ ' .' i'^' .i_ .---M

':i^Z^_chy< '!»■■. WEST urotA 1^ J

•laiiiaic

..5^

, Ciifpfi'ton I .

CARIBBEAN

iMuaetrudti. \ < ' fffuciaa u Dio*

l^'^..J-'^\K

a^'

'■">-^>;

\V Mon< ■•'' 'I

CoC€tS A

gV^

V»>*'

Wmtrr

Gala

{X.Corntnbit

f Btunayewitura >
V

AWa<v>r'

rl'i \.

ulxujdllo

ijiol

«0

R H. LAURIE. 53, FLEET STREET, LONDON.

i;(i

14 1'

1.x I

NORTH PACIJFiC
D€i:AK

( 1106 )

SKCTION IV.

THE PHENOMENA OF, AND DIRECTIONS FOR THE
NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN.

TiiK prccfdin^; pngfs Imve Iwen ilovotcd to <k'8tiiiitit)»s, more or less cxteii<li'il,
of Uio ffaturt's of tliu coasts and isluDds of the North I'ucifur, and iticludiiit;,
iiicidoiitally, ninny notices of the peculiaritiuM of the cliniute and luutcorohi^y
of i-ach region ; there remains to be given u general view of the meteorolo;;y
of the ocean in a broader 8en.so. Hut in a few words it may l)c suid that tlic
airangement of the phenomena in the North I'ucific is so simple, und these
aie so easily applied to the serviee of navigation, that the ensuing ninaiks
need not be enlarged upon, further than is needful to give a connected view
of the subject.

What follows will be i brief accoimt of the N.E. trades and the Anti-trade
winda as experienced in the open ocean, and then a few remarks additional to
N\hat have been before given on the various sections of the coast. To these
will be added an account of its currents, tides, magnetism, See., arui the con-
eluding chapter will be devoted to the application of these phenomena to the
best mode uf making successful pa.ssages between the various purti.

{ llliO )

ciiArrKii \v.

Tlir. WINDS OK THE NORTH PACIFIC OCKAN.

I'hfre is a pr-ni^rBl analo^'v In'twcon tho mrU><iroI«)<;v of cuvh of the sfrcal
oCfan*. I'sjx'ciallv of the Atlantic imd I'iieitic Thin hu-s born ililatt-il on in i ncli
of thr writ's of I)inTtorii"B. of wliirh thit forms a part, itud ihereforr ih<f< noi
nvjuire murh ili»cu«»ion lu-re in our North Athintic Memoir f!«j)ocia!ly.
Section III, pp 173 — 2.SH, the «rran;;cnifnt of tht- wind-ronMi and the rauM-s
which IiMfl to this iirranfjrrnrnt arc fully <icscribr<l. In the volume on the
Indian nccari, Chajitir I, [ij). - ''•■>, the [n.-uli iriti(<« of the winds of that
tM-eun arc shown, differin',' .i.>> it does from the otht-r grt-at wat<T areas in havin;;
the preat continent of AMa at it.n northern boundary, on the tlivision Ixtwien
the wind and current wy»tem!« of the Northern and Soutliern Ihniispheres. To
this ])livhical p«'euli.irity the pheni>mena of the (•han(;inK monsoons are owing.

The North I'aeifie more resetnMi-h the Norlli Atlantic than the other oceans
in it» meteoroU>]fy, but differ* from that cktou in not haNin^ any connenimi
vsith the Arctic area, for the (>aN»age of liehring Strait i^ too hhaliow and Um
narrow to affeit the general ijui'stion. Further than tliiit, the great area i^f llie
I'acific »ecms to exerci»e a dead> nmg ilfect on tin' motive forces of the atini)-
h|dierie and oeeaii eurrtnts whuh pans over it, l>oth iKing of a more inodirate
character than m the AtJantic.

'ITierc are very conmdernble variation- from the notmal condition of tbi*
winds when licar the laud, where the effi-et of heat and M-a»on im) greatly niHiify
the aerial current* lut to |ir<Mluce real monfoons on either *ide of the ocean
Many of lhe»e exet ption.i! ca.se.1 have U en uoticvrd in the preceding jM^t* i
othcni Will be alluded to pn ^t nlly.

The general anemological arranginicnt of thf North I'ucific in thus ;- T»
the northwar'l if about lat l\<) a parallel \arjjng with tin ■.euwtn} are found

THE WINDS OK TIIK NORTH PACIF/C OCEAN.

1167

KAN.

Ii vf the ijriMt
■'ti'il nil ill i.icli
reforc <li>iv>( tiol
loir MjMTi.illv,
•iiuJ the onuMs
volume on the
winds (if tliat
areas in linviii;;
vision Iw-twii'ii
■'lusjilii'n-s. Jo
loiut arc Dwiii;,'
10 other octjiis
any conmxicm
lallow mi<i i,n)
i'4t area of the
s of thi uUw)-
lutirc (III iiii rate

ntliticiii of the

j^re.jtlv iii",ii[y

of tlie u< tjin

ceding jki^rt ,

in thus :- T)
xin .lie fi. .nJ

tlio S.W. anti-trade winds; between that parallel «nii l.at. 7° or 10° .N. (also
vnryinp with the sun's declination) i« found the NM, trade wind, find between
the last-named parallel nnd the northern limit of th» S.K. trade wind is a
narrow belt of calms or variable windiH, to which tlie r.;.iine oi "■' Doldrums "
has been a|)plicd ; it is a well-known belt of dilHcuUy to (he wiih.T.

Cajjtain Maury sny.s : — " It has a mean a\ern«:e brcadtli around the globf)
of about six degrees of latitude. In this region the air which is l-rought to tho
K(|uator by the N.K. and S.K. tradcB ascends. This belt of caiins uhvays
siparates the.sc two trade wind zones, and travels up and down with them. iJ
we liken this belt of ccpiatorial rahns to an iniTTiense atmosphoiical trough,
extendini; as it does entirely round the earth ; an'i if we Hkrn the N.E, and
S.lv trade winds to two streams discharging theniselves into it, we shall &ec
that we have tw(j currents per]ietually running in at the bottom, and that,
therefore, we must have as much air ivs the two e.irreiits bring in .rt tlie bottom
to flow out of tlie top. What flows out o'"!..- io|> is carried h.ick North and
South by these upper currents, which arc tlius proved to cii.sl and to flow
counter to the trade winds."

The belt of calms follows tlie sun in Ids imnual couvse, though the limitH do
not range so much in latitude as the sun does in declination, im<l genomHy
they jiass from one extreme of latitude to the other in about throe monthu.
The whiile system of wind and calm belts moves northward from the latter part
of May till some time in August ; they then remain almost stationary ti.U th«
approach of winter, wiu-n they commence to l"> southward, and proceed in
that direction from DeeemlHT till February or March.

Owing to the une({UMl liistribution of land iind water in the two hemisphero'i,
the relative projiortioiis being in the northern hemisphere lUO land to l.'iO
water; and in the strnthern 1(K) land to ('r28 water; and, owing to the great
inrtuence that the presence of land has on tlie aerial currents, the division of
the two wind systems is always to the North of the Equator, that is, the ma-
thematical and meteorological eipiators (in not coincide.

The extent of the trade winds in latitude is usually considered to be from
30' S. to 30'" N., but these limits are subject to so many variations, that such
a statement must be received with great limitations. We have not the means
of ibawiiii.' such a close approximation to a true mean ns can be <lone iti tho
Allanlii' Ocean, from the fewer recorded observations. The following table is
given by the late excellent Ch. I'h de Kerha let. of the French Marine, as the
result of ninety-two vessels which have crossed the line between the longitudes
of IOC. and I J 7 W.

At the end of this Chapter is a diagram, compiled from the " Wind riiarts
for the Atlantic. I'acifie, ami Indian Oceans," published by the Hydrographic
Ofhec in 1H72 and 1879, prepared from various authorities. A careful study
of thin diagram will give a much clearer idea of the limits of the trade winds,
at (litfcient m asoiis. than any verbal description.

jSh

lir,8 THE WINDS OF THK NOUrU rAlIFlC OCEAN.

J'lihU i>f thf limtlt of tht \ 1%. and S.K. TrmU*, httuttn fntit/. lOfi" ami
I IT II' , iinJ the breadth of the nilrrml between them m riuh tiioulh.

Thadi Wmiit.

MnntliK.

— Mr"«dih of ihn

I'oUr I-nnit. t^juatorial Limit. int-rviuni:

7i>ae i>f uilins.

«»{lhi'X.K.<>( \\u< 8 K ttfthoX.K. »>f ihf S.K ,
Ut. N. i Ut. tS. U(. N. UtN. i

.•

•

'it

Jft

■i6

'»

»l

Ift

•iS

■»■>

24 '

A,!

]•;

«1

'»H

2"«

v.>

'.M

■i\

.'.I

4.'i

jr^

• ^

20 ,

•

J«

3^1

•

:«

" !

Afl .

ir.

F»iiri».ity

aUr'l. ....

Apr-.l

M«y

•Itiiw

J>.:v...^....

A ■ i«t ..
Si'jiii iiiUr
ltcJ"Nr ..
Nov«jtnl>pr
I)ei»inl*r

It will hf ar^n ifoorilinx' to thii» tab4e moA tlM A^prani, tltat Uir polar umi
««)untori.il tuiiU of the Inuli' windu vai y wii'n ffkr laMnii, aiul rciuove f:irtti.r
from or no.'ircr f»> the FA^uator, ac<i)r<lm»t ii» th^ Mm has North or S>ulli 'le-
clitmtio:. atitl tiiat the breadth of tht- inl^rvpiiinu rmio in it« ea*torn part :»
lew ill trinlcr thnii m the numinor of tbenortlicm hfimnphpro. In other rinjxTt.-
thin iK)nr hoi* imi-h rcwmbUnco to tlic c<)rr«>«|K>intmi; Im-U in the .Vtiniitir, hut
»<> not M> sijjwply ilctiiu-<i. It in iti reality )iri>:ulor IxHwofn the in«'ri<li: ni i'!
iiO to 1^0 than farther to th<' »re!.'.warii, on thone of Vl^y to IM)" W. lonp-
tude ■ tl'.al i» l" >ivj, tiie bnadth of the c«ln» fmf ditninmhen ac«M)rdini{ fi» yiu
advance we*twiird, prvxriiwly unalojjouj Xo the wmd ttyatent in the .^tlnntic ti >
recitit knoWi<-d^<- <.f which tta» h:ui Much a niurkid lutlueuce on the Uu:i>
#(juntoriaI voya}<fn

J'be tcrtr* calm-bet» ;>i not precinely iippliruble to thrsi* otnintorial "(ioldrtiiii», '
Vtcenuae, besides cttlnif juid light ini>. varmble In'twecn N.NV to South, \>\ tl'
Went, otijrmit. j(aU»«, and almndnnt ram are fre«iuentJy eneounien-ii (iwini;
to the land inf1.i< ncr* U-fore aUudc<l t<>, the cjilni-lj^'h lien norliiwaril "t tin
K4uatur, itj» liauti \aryin)( with the tK'OMinfi, aa will b< ttet-n from the itiuiitrn-
live d.axnim* Hut it f»oinetitne?» oeoir-* that the two trade wiuda vawx i.ui.
other tfKihuut any intervening ftpaee of variable* or calms.

The fiofth-tMt' Trade Hind neeiN hut few ninarkN. Iteyond the .tpnf '^r.
tlie 1 miem par' of tlie iH-ean, where Liml intiuenci .» niodifv or reveme itAU»uu
eharat'ter. it .« found to blow with steady but moderate f.>rce ov.r the w/ihu'
(/f the e»*tern part itf the ocean iowards it;i we»tern part, llial M, be}oii4

Ian.

*y lOfi" ati.l
III h mofith.

Hr-ndih of ih.,

iiiti rv. tiini;
/'■lie o( raliiu,

THF-: WINDS oi' THK Xouril rAriKIC OOKAN.

lUit)

„

•iS

•».'.

1-;

'^N

4'i

H iH

3 If.

»t the [inliir ami

1 remov* l^irtlicr

rth vr S)ulli <k'-

« oAiitcrn part i.»

In oiJuT ri'H|><>ft>

tho Atinntir, htit

tli«* tniTi'ir nt I''.

L) I. SO W lonp-

uccnriimi; a;" vou

ll»e Atinntir. tlu-

tc« on tiic uati"-

orial "(i<ililruin»,"
to South, Ijv tin"
>unifn'il ('Win;;
tmrliiMriiril "I iru
(rnin ihi- iliu>tri-
winds ateet cact)

yond the Kpnce on
>r rt>vtM-»»* itAU»u.il
Cv i>\i r till' whult;
t. Hut »«, U'juuJ

and aliout the Mariiiiias, it is lc«s certain in tlu' -ninnicr niontiis (A])iil to
Septonibci;, and lu'ie tli'' vanishin;^ (•ircct^ of tlic S.W, and N.W. ntontsuons
riie sonu'tinu'H folt. 'I'lu; iiiii>trativ(' iiia^;rain-i will atrurd the best insii^lit into
it.s area ami limits in the various scx'-oiis. Ihe Hawaiian ^roup, winch lirs
on its northern edfje, or in tlielieltof tropical variahii's, from Januaiy to April,
is includrd within its limits duriii}^ the reniuindtr of tlu' yeai'.

It will ho noticed, on sludjin^ the diagram facinj; page 1 l'J'2, that the S.H.
T>iti/f Wind stretidies as a continuous hell across tlie ocean only in the months
of .Inlv, August, and Scplemher. Iltirin^ the reniainder of tlii' year a 1m it of
viriai)ii' winds stretcln.-s diagonally from the (iilhert Islands to the Low Archi-
pelago, thus breaking its lontinuity.

1 he iS. Jr. AiUi iiiifli or I'<is\a<jr ffV/N/.v. which occupy all the northern pu!i
of the ocean, will recpiire still fewer words. !t has all the general character-
istics of the similar wind ni the Atlantic, and perhaps is more ])ersis',iit on
the western side of ti>e ocean. Hut here it is very nuich atiected by the vast
area of laiul it j)asscs over, and reaching the ocean as a very dry and cold wind,
it has a corropomiingiy severe ell'eet on the climates of the northern part> of
.lapan, Saghalin. the Se;; of (>khotsk, Js.c.. which are pro\er!iialIy iixdcment,
and for a long ix.'rind of tlie year coiniileit ly ice-bound. ( 'u reaching the opea
ocean, where the great return stream, called the .Ja|)ane,-ie Current, runs to tho
north-eastward, carrying witli it the warmer wati-r of the tropical latitudes,
this cold and dry wind so condenses liie warmer va|K>urs whic.di hang over the
current, tliat tiu-y are couihnsfd uilo almost oerpi 'uai fogs. A similar and
well-known region is found m the vicinity of the lianks of Newfoundlaiwi, but
hi're these foijs e.xlctnl far to the westward, and envelope more or le.ss coniuai-
ullv the e.vtrn.sive r.'inges of the Kiuile and .Vleutian IslaiaU.

Diiintiivin:; these va|ioars and acrpiii ui;_' further huuiiility. and also increased
ti»iiii>*'niture. in Us fiutin r jirognss to the eastward and lu.rth-ea.stwan!. it is
found on the Alaska enacts as a warm, raui-lieanng wind, wlueh deposit.., its
abundant moisture on the coasts and islands of that com])ara:ively unfrcjuented
region.

Farther to tthe southward, in the territories of Hritish ("olumbii', the climate,
W is wci! ki>o«w», is not subject to (>.\tremes of heat atid cold on the coast re-
gions, but within the range of mountains, which inlerei-pt much of this anti-
trade wind, und eonseijuently of its wanner moisture, the climate is much more
RCvere. '>f rulifornm. one of tlif linest countries in the world, and nossessm.r
every aiiv.mtage S Huuld tempemture and suthcicnt moisture, we have spoken
elsewhere. A few w.>rds ndi follow

As before sumI, the action of the land on tliese different aerial current is
very great, and ein only be uuilersttnnl l»j a special de.seriptum of each disiriet.
The following seleftion is given ro atford this insight *

• i 1 tuiili.r Oil. ni.4.iiuu m lo iL.. wimio myai liko.y lo U met witu in v.inoa». p.iita u/
^ot ill I'm •,/<! . - 1^

'.*P.'"iL --. .J-L"!Jii "HM

11:0

Tin: \\iM>^ or Tin: noktii rAciric ockan.

("km KM Ami lh \. On pii;i«'« I nm' .') nro jti^^n Morac g* ncrul roniaik* on
iht' clinrit'- of tlio \vo?*'cni a<it of tin' t;rr;»t AmcilMn i«>tlMmii*. Tin- fuliuvi ,!,__-
is by l.icul.-l'omin. .lamt'* Wood. H N.. wlio Kiiivfy<Hl portimm of tli(< it:!-.'.
ill II. M.S. P(iti(/nrii. rill f-iHt p.iri of \)iv'*f ol)M Tvationn roforn to tlic <•. .m
to tlir soiMh«,iril of I'.iiii.'ua, Iml will hv ii»il'ul to Kiilm:; visscls nukiiii; iLi,
flitlifiiit [I'lt.

rir^YV'jfii liixii: 1'' OiM'^f \N(\ Point.

Thr Inlrrtrnpun!.— .\lon^ thr wholo <tf the rnnst fmtu the K:vor nunynnii;!,
in 3' S., to < iiinsrnni.i I'oiiit, in - N , tlie wind i» mostly frotn Soulli to Wist ;,il
thr vonr rowinl, follovi-mi; in sonir mci\«urT the trrnd of tin- (thorcs : the I'xre'v
tion* nrt few, .Tml unu t.tUv ooriir 111 itic fin*' NOH.noii. Itn(h in Iwntitij; up tlii»
rouNt |o the southward, and 111 riiniuni; down it. thr forniiT in tli(> moiui » t
May !ind .Juno, tlic latter in tliosc of (>ctolri, NovciiilxT, and .laiuiar>, w. :.„.
t!\i' wind from S > l). to W « ■>t liy tlio Soutir, with a conhUint lurn nt tn the
iiortiicai>lw,ird, tin' only ditfcrcncr licin^ iJiut lh<' m mils writ" li^litrr. and llic
wcafluT liner in M ly ^ind .hinr a>* wr j^ot to tlie --I'Ctlm.-ird , wliilst tlie cim-
triir\ took j.lare in ( >i toU r and Novtniln-r ; and mi .1, unary tlie wc.ilhrr « 1*
fivnirally fsnc with inodt-ratc hnt-zi"*. Within (io niiii-i« of tho lantl tlicii' i- 1
i-on'slan? cttifnl 1" the nortliwurd. of ^;ivnl a^^■^^tancc to m >s«.-is liound f
i'unuma.

<'iltnt'- IUt - .After cnU-rinj; tl.c ]\.\\ of niooA. of which Point nu.n«Mmi
forni'^ the •..utiuTM horn, the wiiul^ bcciiim.' inor*" \anabU' : but <luring tlu tunc
we were in the Vciv from tiiv fin', of .'anuary to tin* middle of .March it m-vtr
bU'w very fit':«h, thon^;V. I he weather wan often un»<;'tlled, and heavy rami Uf-
((nent. 'J he jirevuilui^ wmd w.i* from S.W., but Uorlli wvsUrl^- wuiu* Hon- i '■';'
not rinooiiinioii. j^,

rill' hillowmi; account by Datnpier \» porlutps iw piv^d iw c/in Iw* given -
" It i* a very wi't CoiW-t. and it rainii abnfidiinliv here ull the year loti;,' llur'
nro bill few f.m diiyt» : for there iw litlU' differenri' in the lioUMinH of tlio ui."
bctwet.-n the Wet and the ilrv ; only in that Kfiwon which nhould !«• tlic il:\
tune, th*' rainti are Icka fi'ci]uetU Olid more inuderulc than in the wcl M.-aaiiii, ! 'i
then It jvi>ur» ai* out of a itieve. '

'l"hi» kind of wi uther in found a< far an CajM- Currientc*. the prf%-uilini; wii!
Ihmuh S W., but N !•', wiiidtt are nut uncoiniu>in. Otf uhorc in tnm ruiio, Iv-
twtcii the paniliflti of '4! fuid 6 N., the wind* arc i-ijuully battling, eii|M>ciaii(

tlio orenn. n f«ri-M'<' •KkiiM \tt utNtl - * tho " \\\n I OmrU," mciitiunntl on p<iK<* 1 ^(' '''
Uii-M- !r««n up !•)• Lwul. iinnt U Itrmlt. i.f the Krim )i .Sin\, iiuMmln'.i l-y ihi- Fn ■ i
(iviVemnumt 111 IH.'^o tirVeltK- Mi t'-'ii'>l..(fi('i»l ChuiUgi Uiu N>)rlh tVltk: (Hv«ii, pullnJ -J
1-) U»e L'aitvU St»l«» («u»"runi«it lu l«7».

•*V

esRaaRRorannnR

CHAN.

;t ncrul roniatk« on

m«. Till' f(il!(iH;|!|;
tinliii of !lii> COil.it

n'ffVH to till' O'list
iMfls luakiin; iLis

V K:vor r;iinvnq\ii!,

n South to NVist all

Khnrc-s ; tlio ciicp;!

in healing up tlix

in tlio iTHiiiiht (if

111 .laiiu,'ir> , we hi,!

Utiit I'urnnt t^ the

vrv lifihtrr, iiml tl,f

tl , whiUt t!»t' ct'V.-

y the weather wi<

' the latul tlicie i« i

!<■ \( ^st'ls bound W

Vi I'c'mt fiua«fimi
:)Ut (luring the tiini'
■ t)f March it m-va
iind heavy rriin- (:f-
n.>l«.rly w»ii.l> tt.rv

lis can )w? given : -
w yi'nr l.)tiu' Tluri
HOttM>nN I if the yt ir
'h iihouhl U' the >l;r
1 ihe wcl MMsi'ii, I ■

, the Jlrevaihtl^• »; .
re in ti.ix r.nw, N
batlling, e«iH'ciai._v

ionml nn pugr 116T W

ll.lli.l..-.| l,y 111.- Kr»'ll.b

lVltt<: lK-\'«ll. puMi»».^

TIIK WINDS OF 'inK NOllTn rAflFir OCEAN.

1171

during Miireh, April, and May. 11. M.S. Alarm, in MiU(;h, 1H.'<'.>, only madf
130 miles in six duyu.

rHiH\Mn(R\ Point td tiik Ot r f ok Sa\ Mrnt'Kr . - When pn.st Chiram-
hira Point (the norllu'rn horn uf Chotu Ku) ) we had the wind more from the
northward, and in the latter end of March had to heat uj) to I'anaina Hay
against north-westerly and north-easterly bree/.us, blowing a fro»h breeze at
times, CRpceiuUy as we approacht'd the hay.

I)t aurvpving this lact-named part in .January, IH^8, we found the winds
more variable, heavy rains alinoNt always aei-nnipanying a ehan^e to S.W.,
from which (quarter wc once or twice hud u stifl' breeze.

Gi'i.K UK SvN Mnn K.I. to thk (Jii k o^ Oi i.ci;, in( iriiisi; rnK

1!\V OK r^NAMV.

First, or Tntrrtropiral UVxi/*. - lietween the soutln'rn point of the (iulf of
San Mi;;uel anv' the (iulf of I)uU\, including I'anania Hay and the coast of
V<'ragua, the winds are regulated by the sua.ton.s. During the tine seu.son,
connneneing in Oct iber, the norther.s prevail. 'Jhcse are tine, dry biee/.es,
which generally come on in the afternoon, and blow very fic.'^h liom X..N.Iv
to N.-N.W. till near midnight, with a perfectly clear and iloudiiss sky, and the
air HO dry and rarefied that objects on a level with the horizon .ire di.-jtortt d
and tlalteiied, and the same ellVcts are caiisid us are seen during an easterly
breeze oH' our owu coast. Though generally a d(Mxble-reefed lop.>*ail breese,
they occasionally blow much hardtr, especially utf the co;u.l uf X'ernjiua,
where, in the months of .January and February, even a close-nrled topsiui
breeze is not iincoininon. Ouring cvm the .sti'ongesi of iliesi'. a dead calm
ofti'ii prevails 10 or l.") miles titf lh»» laud, the only evidence .>f the gale that i.s
blowing within ti few humlred yard." of you being llu; agiuiledi ot the water,
which is raised into shoil holij.v waves, which breai*. uu board and tumble \uu
about awfully.

Towards tlie end of March up to the middle of .\pril. the nortlurs are not
BO regular, ami have more westing in them, and are succeedeil by calms and
light sea and land-brei/es, with oecu.sional S()ualls from tin; south-weMtward.
As April advances the sijualls get stronger and more freijuent, and by the
latter par* of .May the rainy sea.son generally sets in. iluring the greater part
of which South and south-westerly winds prevail. These are not verv violent
within the Hay of raaama ; but from I'unla .NIala wesiwaiil. gaies irom the
above ijuartcrs arc freijuent. at^d soHietimeB severe, bringing a verv heavy sea
with them. Still tin- old N W. wuul i* mostly found at'er noon, and vessels
saiiiug from I'anaum ul .ill BCUBoas v»iU generally have a lair wind uunl South
of i'uuta Ma>a.

13i.iWLL.N iUL Li.VLAlAtioa Im.A.M<- A.ND Till: COASl, WfbtWard of tliO

f!
\

■L

IITJ THE WINDS OK IHK NollTII I'ACll'K' (K T.AX

iiifiiiliiin of M' , nnil wmlhwanl of the |)i.riill.l of .'i N.. tin- winds arc Ix twr'rn
S.uth ami West all tl\c' ytMi rouinl. and i xcopl liftwcrn t)i«« inoiithi* of I'Vhru-
ftrv niid .lui»i< tlii-y an- of siiHiciont (.Irciinth utid duintion to make tli(> navii.M
tioii I'asv ; tmt norihwnrd of l.U '>\ Ixtwon so and I HI \V.. u a i«<piciii (,f
calm and doMnun". aiconipannil t>y rains and sqtiallM of n inoRt rcxatioui de.
B-riiitioii Tlif wi'atliir nu t with can hardly he better i^HHtrntl^l than liy tho
tads that in Mav. l^l"^. II M.S. Ilrritld. in licr pa.'.fap- towards llu- Sandwiih
Islaijiis. althonL'h iiiwrd in'- six day* ^» fi»r Wot as HU I'O.Htili took forty daM
from i'anama to 110 W . ii»»inj; to krc|iiiiij lirtvum the j)arallcls of H'' ntui
10 N , and m Mardi of the followiii;; year, m the meridian of 87 and the lat
of S N., only made :'.o ini!c» in nii.e llay^.

(ill! .>r I>r I ( » K' I Ml <!i I r

FoK

ire V.

From the (iiilf of Ihilcc, [iroeeedivii; «e-twird alnn:^ ilie «hore* of (',,»it
Hiea, (iuateinalH, uikI Mexir<i. we find tlie «inds ..tili follow the cli:iiii:r-( ,,t
lh>' stM-iuns. iiiodifnd. hi>wiver, hy liMiiity I\»r invtanee, whenever the
northers prevail, we fmd them hlowinj^ ot! the shore iit neiirly right ainrl* i,
the run of tho coast ; thus, ns soon an the coast of Nic.ira'^iia is a]>pru.ii !,c :
i which takes a more northerly din-itiori than that befoie itii iilioned V, we \]v,<;
durini; the fine season the northers e\chafi;;ed for hreezes called l'ap:it:'iv(i«
These blow from N.N.K. to I' N V, or Ijast, and are accompanied hy the •<iii..
clear fine weather a-s the northers; the prevailiiiL; wiiul, however, durin.; t .>
reason from .lainiary to Ajiril is from 8.I-! to N K. Krom .May to Novenilxr.
winch IS the rainy s«a'-on. the weather is ino-tly bad, ira'cs fronj the Wi >t and
S.W . with thunder, lifjhtninK. kt , bemi; fre<i\ienl, uud at times vioifit.

(tll.K oK KiiV-KV I" nil <»IIK ■>^ Tt III \M ► IKC.

After pasi«inj? the (iulf of Fonseca, whirr the land ti^nin tremls nearly iluc
AN'est, the northerly wiiidii are lost, till on teaching the (iulf of Tehu.iii!«'jii.>
we me»'t them nn-i' rnore, but under a dillcrciit name, and aMuining a iiK.-t
violent cdiarae'er. Aloiii,' this portion when- the ui'iuntains approach, ami eve
111 some place* form the eoast-line, the winds durini; the fine season :ir».' tl ■.
usual trojiieal land and sea-breer*"* ; the forincr from \ W , the Utti r f.'^ ■.
Sviuth to \N' S W and West. Thr rfinninin^ months arc iiiai ked hv t\niw :•'
Weather fioin the Mine (jaarters ax v.s tuuiul un the Nic.ii aj^ua co.isl.

Fki>M lllf dsiJ ■It TkUI A.M Kl >.( To TtJIlVN I'oISl.

Inlrrfrajnriil Wnuls — 'I'he he?.vv blusUi which blow over the i»thniu^ :
TihuantejMc derive their w>urce from the country they cruM. Tluy »eciii
I..' cauMtl by th«- northers in the <iulf of Mixico, which here hnd a vi:
throuirto the opriiinii formcil Iw-twuti the Mexieun and t i'latei.ialian iiiountJ •
'Ihiv I'low wit; .'iLii l.Tce tioni Nortt to N.N.K , 4itd lauca vvrv hii;li »!■ ■

•KAN.

iituls arc brtwopn
|ii)iiiith!< of I'V'hni-
■n.ikc till' navi;.M
|N' . in a n'diim t,\
out vrx;itiiMi>i ilo-
Irnttxl than l)y tho
■irds till' Saiulw'i li
[ill took forty (l,i\<
[ariillfN of H-' ami
lof S7 iiiui llif lat

I- -"horcs of Ciivt.i

N* the ch:inu'<'s of
iri", whoiicviT tl.f
rly ri|;!it !iih;Ii'h t"
L'lia is :i]>jiri)ai.lir !
I iitioiu'd \ wf tiiii!

calli'J l'!ijn^'ivii«
prniird hv ihr ^;ii!/
.wovtr, iinriii_' I ..•

Mav to N'ovcniU r.
from ihf Wt^t ami
tiiiti-tt violc'\t.

N 1 f \ir.

II trfixls ni'iiily i!-'-
iulf of Tchu.ltlti'jKr
(1 aMtiiining a mv:t
i upprouc'h, aiul eve
fine M'iisoii arv ti ■.
W , thf UttiT fp "
iiirkeil l>\ t-Mii w.r^;

^IM fO.lst.

over till- i?tlii:iu'- :
•uM. Hit y wfni '•
r ii here liiui a vi;.
;itri.itiliuri iniitiiita :•

TIIK WINDS OF TIIK NOUTH I'AriFK' OCIIAN.

1173

son ; tlieir force is felt for st'vcrnl hundred miles off the coast. During the
season when they prevail (December to April) every preparation should bo
niiide to meet and carry sail through them ; if this can be done they are soon
crossed, and 'JOO to '.!•'>() miles of westing' (or casting; made ; otherwise, if you
are obliged to heave-to, 3(\ to IIH lionrs of heavy weather may bo expected,
exposed all the while to a very high and short sea. In the rainy season these
cease ; but tiie weather here, as along the whole coast of Mexico, is then very
bad, gales and strong brce/.is from S.l'. to S.W . constantly occur, whilst squalls,
accompanied by tluindor anil lightning, with heavy and almost incei-sunt rain,
characterise tlie season throughout. These gales are at times very severe, ren-
dering tlie navigation of such a coast very unpleasant, as, with one exception,
there is scarcely .iiiy thicker from them to be found.

During the line siason, however, nisthing can be more regular or (juiet than
tl'.e weather on the .Mexican coast. A regular sea-breeze sets in about noon,
beginning from S.S.W. to \V..S.\V., and getting more westerly as the sun goes
down, decreasing with it, and gradually sinking into a calm as the night closes
in. This is succeeded by the land-wind otf the shore, which is more irregular
in its direction and force; but these winds, an<l tlu- method of making a passage
to the westward aloii;; the coast, have been so veil and so trulv described by
Danipier and Hasil Hall, that ntilhitig remains but to add my testimony to the
correctness of the accounts •'ley give as fur as their phenomena fell under my
own observation.

.\s soon as the coast begins to trend northerly again, which it does about
Tijupan I'oiiit, \vc meet tli'' northerlv wiruls which blow down the Ciulf of
I '.ihlornia, and which aie tound pretty steady during the fine season a few
miles otf the coast; by taking advantage of these, and the daily variations
caused by the land and sea breezes, the passage is made from this point to fc'an
I{las and Ma/atlan; but it is alwajs a tediouo beat, owing to a contrary current
and ficipient calms.

Wkst ro\sr OF Mr.xrro.

On pages R.T to H5 sonic remarks will be found fr.nn tht' pen of riimmodorc
('. !!. Hamilton, IM I',), describing the winds and weather experienced on board
H.MS /•',,,/ic. To these tnay be added here some observations taken from
Captain Hasil Hall's well-known work.

(In the S.W. coast of Mexico, the fair season, or what is called the summer,
though the latitude be .North, is from December to .May inclusive. During
this interval alone it is advisable to navigate the coast ; for, in the winter, from
June to Novemiier iiuluMve, every part of it is liable to hard gales, tornados,
or heavy scpialls, to calms, to constant deluges of rain, and the most dangerous
lightning, added to which, almost all parts of the coast are at this time so un-
heailhy as ti. he abandoned hy the inhabitants. At the eastern end of this range
of co.ist, abual Panama, the NMiitci .sets in earlier than at Sau Hlas, which lies

1 174

TIIK WIVT1S f)F THE NOUTII I'ACII'K' OCKAN.

nt the wcHttrn einl. lUunn ami ^ickiiivw nro l(X)ki'd for early in March nt r.itntm;
but at Son Itluj* niin (icltKnn falls iK-fore the I'lthof Juno ; wiinotimpK, howitir,
it l>opnK 1)11 the 1st of June, ns wr e^jMTit«nei'<l. Of ilw iutvrincdiutc cod^i I
have no exact information, exccjit that Ik-cenilier, January, uml February arc
rtno monthtt every w hon- ; nu(l that, with n-Hinct to tin- ran^;e between Ai apulio
and I'tuutma, the months of March, Aj)ril. and half of May. are also tim- ; nt
other tinus the coant navipition may be generally described ina dangerouo, ai,J
on every account to bo avoided.

From iK'ceinbrr to May inclusive, the prernlrnt winds Wtwcen Panama aril
t'.ijH' lUanco '(hilf of Nicoyo) arc N.W. and norlhirly. 1 hniee to luuitj.
and Sonsonate. N F. nnd easterly. At thiH Hca-ton. otf the ^ulf8 of l'a|m^':i\ >
and TehuanlejxH- there blow hanl Kaleii, the fimt Uing j^emndly N.E.,«iiii lii,-
latter North. Theite. if not too ntrong. iw they xninetuues are, greully accelcnitc
the jwssiipe to the westward ; they ln-nt for neverul days to;;eth(r, with a citnr
sky ovcrheaiJ, and a dun-H' re<l ha/e neur the hori/oii. We exiMruiiced IxiJi
in the (unuat/, in Fehruary, \H22. The first, which was otf the thilf of I'ajia-
fjayo on the I'.Mh, carried u« 'i.X' miles t-) the \V N.W. ; but the j^alo wu nut
in erosting the (luif of Tehuantcpee on the "Jtth, J.'tth. nnd 'Jt,ih, \»u^ ho Imnl
that we could ^how ro nail, nnd were drifted otf t») the S.S.W. more than Ino
mile.^. A ship niivjlit to 1h> well prcpnriMl on thrse Dccrisioris. for the ^alo i.-, iint
only !>eTcre. but the inn, which ri»es ijuiekly, i» uncommonly high and sli^rt,
M) as to strain u iihip exceedingly.

From Acapulco to San Hlnii, what nre callctl land and «ca brccjiei! blow ;
but, u» far b.m my exjHritiice goes, during the whole of March, they dcun-ily
deserTc that n.iiiu'. They ore described ai* blowing from N \N'. and Wini
during the day, and from NK. at night ; whcuc« it iniglit be inferred, th.tt a
hhift of wind, amounting to eight point*, take<* place Ix-tween the day and iu;;ht
breezes. Hut, during tin- wlwile tii«tnnco In'tween Acapulco and San lli.u,
togetlur w.th about 1"0 miics Mast of Acapulco, which we worked along, hank
for hank, wc mver found, or very rarely, tiiat a greater shift could be retkoiu'i
on than four points. \N ith this, howiMr, ind the greale»l diiijieuce, a JaiA
progreas of from 30 to JO miles may In iii.nle.

I.oWKU Cmikokma.

There is no good account of the iiii-tforology of this portion of the wf sti r;i
eiNisi of Atiicrica. Hut iu some measure this is of less imporUuice, iii;i»iu>ii.;i
lis it ha.s few ports, and these hut very little fre<juented by commerce, i 'u
jip. 130 — 131, and IT'', sona- n iii irks by Mr. JetfiTV, K.N., ami ( 'ciiniuaii.lcr
O. Dewey, r S N , are given 1 he following are by Commander J.ifl. \S jjI,
and are iu cuntiu lation of th'ise givin on page 1173 aute.

S.W 1,11 \s I.i \'.vMrU\JU IsivNii.

From Ciipe San Luon to .SVi»i Ih'ju, or fiom :Jo to 3J^ N., the geutrai

'i:an.

larch nt r.inimi;

lOtllUPH, hoWi'TlT,

Tiucdiutc conftt [
iml Fi'bruury are
)clwei'n A("iiiult'i)
arr «!•««) (Im- ; nt
iM duiigt-ruu.t, atij

rrcn Pftnnmn nw]
irucc ti) Kr.1,1 I I
ulfn of J'ajm^'u i
illy X.E..«iulih,-
^^>ully Bcci'li niti
tliiT, with II (If.-ir
(.•\|><THiiCfil U'lh
l\u' (riilf of I'njia-
the j;;ilo wv m, t
2(Uh, woM Ml hunl
v. lutiri" itiaii lUO
or till- gulu i.t tint
high und biiurl,

ca brcoisci) Wow ,
I'h, thoy iK'iiri'ily

N.W. iiud \S\.;
L- infcrrfd, tti.it a

tlu' day and iii^ht
CO and Suit lil.u,
urkcd aloii^', linuk
could \>v rctKiiiir'i

diligfucc, a d<u'}

jti of the wfsttrii
irlanci.*, iii^utiu^iLii
y coiumcrci.'. ' 'it
, and ('oiniiintiilrr
wilder J.W. W jjJ,

N., the geucral

Tlir. \V1M>S OF TUF. NoitTII PA("IFrr rX'KAN.

117.')

direction of the wind is from Wt-Mt to North, hut diiriitf; the winter months,
or ftoin Novciithcr to .\piil, this coast in suhject to violent j;ales from the S.K.,
whidi, itN iiM,>t of tlte hiiys and nnchoriigcs .ire open towards that (juarter, are
much driMided. 'l"hin ic ef«pccially the case along the northern j)ortion of this
diviHion, n.s towards Cape .Stn Lucas they arc lesit freciuent; however, they
always j;ive iiniple wnniiitfj of their approacli. The only way, therefore, of
ntakin^ a jiasmi^re nj) tltis co.i.sl is by f^taitdinp off upon the stJirlK)ard taek ; ti»
yott f;et ottt the wind draws to tlte eastward, till either llie variables are naehed,
or jou can fetch your port on the other tick. In the summer season the only
alteration is that the wind is more westerly in the mornings, and draws round
with the Httn as tlte day advances.

I'roni S(in Dieiju to San Fniiicisro the wind jjrevails from the north- westward
nearly all the year round. This coast is suhject to the same south-easterly
galce as the coast of Lower California, but they are more frequent here, and
blow with greater force. All its hays and roadsteads are siiniliirly exposed,
with the cxci'ptioii of the above-named ports, wliieh are perfectly secure, and
defended front all winds. Dtiriii^ the winter, therefore, vessels always anchor
in a convenient berth for "lipiiinir, with springs .iitd buoys on their cables, so
that on the tir>t appearance of Ite.avy clouds approachlni; from the S.K., with
ft swell roUiitg uji from tlic same quarter ',the invariable sij^ns of the eomiitg
gale\ they may be able to slip and go to sea without loss of time. Tlte.se gales
la.st from twelve hours to two days, and are accontpanii'd by heavy rain, which
la.st» till the wind changes, which it oflen does very suddenly, and bUnvs as
hard for a few hours from tlte N.W., when the clouds clear oil' and fine weather
again succeeds.

OtI Concepcion Point gales and strong breezes arc .so froqticnt as to obtain
for it the appellation of the Cape Horn of California. They are mostly from
North to West, and fr'^<pieittly blow with great force, especially in the winter,
when they sometimes last for three days together, without a cloiul to be seen,
till they be^iit to moderate. Put here one of the most remarkable features of
this coast fir.st shows it-self, viz., the fre(iuoitt and dense fogs, which, during
more than half the year, render the itavigation from San Diego northward most
unplea.Haiit. In makiitg the land, the only way to deal with them is to feel your
way into tlte coast with tlte lend diiriitL' the daytime, as it freciueittly hapjwns
that a thick fog prevails :it sea, while at the sattie time, within a mile or two
of the land, a clear, bright sky, and ojnm hori/im are to be ftmnd; if disap-
pointe<l in this you have but to wear, haul oH" agaiit, and heave-to till the de-
sired change does take place.

Prom San Francisr0 t>> the Strait of Juan ile Fuca the north- we-terlv are
still the prevailing winds ; in tlte months of Juite. Scuttentber, and October,
we found them almost constantly so ; hard gales from all points of the com-
jtass, however, may be looked for here at all seasons, especially durin<' the
winter and tlte ecpiinoetial iiteitths. These begin generally from .S.E. to S.W.,

■■

I17rt

riiF WINDS or rni; noktu PAcii'ir ofRAN.

brin;;m)( tliii'k ritiiiy wrnlhrr with them. After lilowm^j fi<>m tlicup ijunrtrr^
fur »i)mc hnup«. tlii-y tly rnimil t't llic n<>rthwiir«l < l)y ihv \Nr».t\ with little if
any waiiiiii^, rxrrpt the incroa^rd hraviiu-XH nf thr rnin, ainl Mkw i'\rri hnrili r
thun iH'fori". Ihinni; tho ^|l^lll^, iMstrrly niul muth winterly hrrvrra arc iiion
prcTuU-nl ihnn at other wn^niiM. In tlii> Kuiutmr month* wi-^trrly wituN m l
fine weather previiil ; Init from the eml of July to llie en<l of Aii(ju>«t. the fi>«
■rt* su fret^tutit that Miaii\ wiik- >%ill itometinn-i ]>.iv< without a cUai liay.

A peneml nrpotint of the winiN on the western ron«t of the I'nitcil Stato,
a* given in the cxcelh nt hyiiroj^raphual nieniiiir by Mr. Daviilnon, I .S N , wiil
be foiinil on pnijet 'J"»f"i 7 The I'. 8. (ioverninrnt /.ralonnly eolleete<l tniit('r;i'.
for melt or"lo(;ical (liKCU«*ioTi iilonj* the whole of the eoasit, liunnj; the i«iir\n
of lh.').'». ami thc«c have brought out the following gemral rcdullw: —

1. The great prevalenee of we.ilerly winil», reprcMiiUng a llow of the air at
the >>urfnee from the ocean in «|>on th«' land.

U. The gemral ah^ienec of eaotirly wind.'*, showing the absence of a rilurii
cuin'!»l at the surfare

The proportion of westerly to easterly winds is as fi to 1.

3. The increa.n' of wmlcrly winds iu the summer, and their decrease in iln
winter.

4. That when easterly winds Mow at nil, it in an a rule during winter.

.'). I he North, N Iv, and Ko-st winiU blow more frequently in ihc inuiiiin^
than in the aflernoon hotir*.

•>. The S K , Siujth, and S \V windi* are in general pretty e<iuaHy dislrihutnj
over the niortiing and evening houra.

7. The N.W i* the ]>ri'vailit)g diroef ion of the ordinary seahreezeat .Xttcrii
and San Diego, ;»nd the Wisi at •''an Franeiseo.

Simetimes the Wist wind ha* that character at the tiist-named staliun*. an a
Kiinetimett the S.W. wind at the htst namwl.

An Home of the d< taiN eonneete<i with ihew ob»erTations will be of strvice
to our readers, ihev are here furnished.

San /■rancisco- .\{ f^nn IranciM-o tlic great current of air flowing from iho
•4.-a to the land eome» generally from the Went or S.\S'., rarely from the N \\

In the period from Noveml)cr •« March, inclusive, the Went is the prcxai!-
ing wind, exceeding in <]uanlity both the others, the .S.W wind exeenliiu' >'■'
()uantitv the N W. In the jH-ri"l Imm .\pril to ()i tolier the West and .SU
wind* an- nearly eijual. and each exe«iils the N W.

The West wind luiit. in general, the features attributed to the »ea-bree/e, !«■•
ginnint; after the rising of the min, increasing until after the holiest p.utut ti.i
dav. and dying out or iiuieh iliiiiinisliiiig at nightfall.

'Ihe West ami S.\V. w imU are prominent features al S.m Iraneinco.

The .S W. is the prev.iiiing wind m .Jum and July; S W. and West v*!;,;

'"*^

\m\-.mmii

FAX.

11 tlu'T cjinrtfr^
.t\ with liltlf if
liliiw fViTi hanlrr

lirrc/.r*t tin' iiinn
Klirly wimU ,>u 1

AiUfiist. the fiii»<

a I It .11 iluy.

hr rnitr<l Stnt.«,
l'>>in, I .S N , «l1
olIiTtoii iniitprii!-
lurinj; the nurvi-y

iliiw of the uir ai I

w^ncf of a rtliirti

ir dccrcn'^r in llic

'in(j winter.

f iu ihc luuruiiig

•qually ili>tiit)utitl

J l)nt/c .it Astoria

ninctl »taliun*, nnJ

will lie of MTvicc

r flowinjj from the
Ay fntiii thf N \\

i>«t ift the prtMiii-
*iiiii fXi-<-<'liii-' i;.
hf Wcsluiul S.N\

thp »ca-brit/c, \^-
hulli si liOJlvf lit

THE WINDS OF THE NORTH PAnrir OPKAN.

11 :

blowin(j marly tin- wliolc of tlu'we niuiitlis, not suciaLdiil hy an custorly land
bri't'zc -but rif-iiij; ami falling. May and August rrHcinble rach oth(.T, tho
N.W. and S.W. windu bpiiij,' nearly ecjuul in nuanlity, and each lesB than tho
West wind. In April and .Soptcnibor tlio N.W. wind has nearly died out.
The Weht wind dmiinisheM in (juanlity throutjli Mareli and February, and
throu^b ^Jetober, Novenilier, and December, to .Janu.iry. 'J'he N.W. wind in-
crettheN a^ain fnan .\i)ril towards December, but is very Muudl in October and
November. The S.W. wind di.iuijpearrt in October, reappearing in November
and December, ond increaning towards January. The West wind haHa maximum
in April ajid Miiy, and another in September and October, the niiiiinia being
July and January.

Tho North wind in December, January, and February, reaching a maximum
in January. i> the only oilier point to be noticed for San Francisco, partaking
with tlio otiier places in the general absence of easterly winds, although the>c
sliow themselves slighfly in winter, 'ihere i.s also b\it little South wind.

Asliiriit iinil ■'^un Pinju. — In general, the winds at these two places resemble
each other more than those at Saii Francisco do either. April, .May, June, July,
and August, have the same general character.

The N.W. wind is the .summer wind, and has the clinracteristies of the sen
breeze, but there is no return land bree/.e. The N.W. winil reaches a maximum
in .luly, and a minimum in December. It is the great prevailing win<l of the
yi ar at San Diego. .Vs it decreases it is generally replaced by Wist and S.W.
winds of less quantity. In December the (juaMtities of the three winds are
nearly erjual.

'J'he resemblance of these winds at San Diego and Astoria is remarkable, the
remark-s just made apjilying generally to both places. There is, however, much
less N.W. v\ind al Astoria than at San Diego. Fxcept in -hiuc, July, and
August, there is some South wind each month at Astoria, and especially from
SejUember, through October, November. December, and F'ebruary. At San
Diego this is less marked, the two agreeing mobt nearly in quuntity in March,
April, and May-

The S.K. wind is a distinct feature in both places in February and March,
and at 8an Diego in .\pril and June.

The East wind i.s proiuinent at Astoria in January, February, and March,
and the N.ll. from October to January, inclusive.

Astoria has the most easterly wind, the N.E. beginning in October and blow-
ing until February, and being replaced by the Euat wind in M.irch.

The summer is the w indy .season on the West coast, July beuig ouc of the
windiest mouths of the ve'ar.

'■ V

Pit

Franriiwo.
and WeM *'■■• •

Xorth J'utijic.

7 L

" •'■ v^

'■'•If

IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)

1.0

I.I

t us IIIM

la.

1.25

1.4

Photographic

Sciences

Corporation

^^<^^.

23 WBST ^^^^' • sitiiT

WfBSTER.N.Y. MSSO
(716) B73-4S03

F» *

ill M

-*¥

UTS

TlIK WINDS OF TlIK NORTH rACII'IC OCEAN.

YANnovvFH 1hi.*ni>, Aiahka, ko.

("apt. fl. n. ItirhanU, UN., in the •icellrnt I'ilot f«»r tlio Routhrm portion
uf IlritiHh ( (iluiuhia. h;u> pvcn the rrmnrkn c{Utit<><l on pa^i'n 3'JU — 3*J2, ainl
tlioM", with other niithonticH niriitiuiicil in that piirt of our work, will ainnlv
HutliiH' for thin jwrtion of the subject. »

«)f the metot)roioffy o( the oixut northwnnl of thin our nrqunintnnrc i» ninrh
more limited, for, with the rxrrption of Sitkn. we hnve but few remaikit on the
climate of thi» remote anil uiifre(juente>l regii>n. On |>n);eii 5H and .'jUJ ;t .ire
piwu the (feneral re«ultj» oi the olMervations on climate, kc, ciij)ecinllT tliouc
derived from fuurtetn yeixrtt' honrly obwrTatioim at the Imperial Olmertatorv
at Sitka, the one ^rent feature lK•in^ clearly nhown. — that the average nuiuUr
of Wet or fo^y ilavH ]>er annum w-oa Iwo hundr^i and forty-Jirt.

Altholl^h of old date, we (five here the olmenrationa of Admiral KrMiM>n<toni
which emboily the ex|HTiejice ((uined up It) the date uf tho great I'acitic hydro-
Kra|>lier'!« lalxmrs.

liumlMildl (.uppov!* that b«>lwccn lUhrinp Strait and the 5th deproe of North
latitude then> prevail North and .*v»uth monaoonH, that ia toaay, from the nmnth
of May t») that of OctoWr wiiidi* from S S.W. and Si'., are met with, ami from
Noveiiib*'r l»r fitim North and N.K. It doea not aeem, however, liy
the voyajjea of ('iK)k, N'ancouver, and other navigators who have frctjuiiitci! ihf
N W coast of .Vnii-nctt, that th<«.e winds aueceed each other remilariy ; aiui if
•uiiietimes wiutls blow oflener fnmi South durinp aumroer, and from North
during winter, I do not think from this that wc can eatabliah a ^eiierni ruii :
for S I' wmiU lire alw) very fre<juent in winter, and it x% with a violent SI!
wind that winter seta in We tind, alno, the opposite to the rule, and that otilv
N.W. winds blow during summer It is eert^iiu that the S.K. windo, wlntlicr
thuae blowing in summer or in winter, are ulway accompanied by bad wentlirr,
by fujo* and ruin ; and, un the cnntrnry, the N.W. wiud la accomjmuied by drr
weather, ami nftrnest with cold weather.

I will addtiee some eianipUs. taken from the journala of the more cele!>ralid
navi|;aton> wh4i have visito*! the N.W. ct>Hata of America, to show that tiic
winds have here too little rcKulartty in their direction to give theui, aa llunt-
thddt does, the name of niims<Hiria.

( ook, while on the ((la-t of America in the month of March, in lat. 44 , hvl
constiint and very fnt>h breews from N.W , which accom|ianie<l hiiii iluriin; i.n
navigation towards the Nortli until the t>eginning nf aummer ; he met with, >t
ia true, from time to tune, gal<>s from the h.K., but they were but suddm iliift*.
and did not commonly last more tlian aia hours, after which the wind revrrt<<l
With grt at force t4i the N W., and it waa only by meiiua of theae short breezt*
from the S K that ('<«ik could work his way to the North. It i^ sem ei|iia y
by the voyaKcs of I.u I'trouse, I'ortlock, and Dikoii, thai oouUicrly winJi <1"
nut predominut*- during the summer mouth*.

■ ''* ■

EAN.

Bouthom portion
It :}'.»0 ;V.tJ. an,l
urk, will aiii|ilY

*
nintnncc in mnrh
w rfmai'kH on tlio
14 aiul .')'.«•: .1 arc
, cii)>rcinllT t)ii>M'
t'rial OlMMTV!ilur\
> avvrngc numU'r

iral KrHm-notorn
Nkt I'aciAc liydro-

I (IcpToe of Ni>rth
from ihe nmnth
»ct with, niul from
pom, liDWfVit. ly
avc frc<j<U'nteil tlie
regularly ; and if
, and from Nurih
iah a gpiiprni nili ;
ilh a violent S 1'
rule, ami that i>tii>
K. wintlii, whctlicr
L'vl by l»a<l wialijcr
;comj>aiiied \>\ dn

he more orlc'iratr.
to show that tli>
ve them, n* llu.:

ch, in lut. i\ ,li>:
aietl him tluniik; iu)
T ; be met with, ii
e hut midiUn »l)>f'><
1 the wiml nvert.'i
iheae short brf«-«>
It JH niM-ii i-ijualiy
wulherly winJi ii>'

TUE WINDS OF THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN.

117'J

Although Vancouver, when surveyini; the coast of Amcn'ea in the middle of
April, 1792, that is, towards the end of the northerly monsoon, experieaecd
violent gaba from S.K. and K.S.K., with continued rains, and, although up to
50° of Ut. the winds blew continually from the southern quarter, yet when he
came on to the coast in the ensmug year, fol'owing it upon the same parallel
and in the same season, khat is, mid-April, he met with fresh northerly winds
as iiir as liis arri%-al in Nnutka Sound. It is true that, in tiw month of Scp-
tMnker, in the same year, he met with some breezes from S.K. to 8.W., but he
also had them from N.W. In the month of I)eveml>vr, 17!)2, on the contrary,
being unckT the parnllul of Tort San Diego, iii lat. 32^ 42 N., the winds blew
constantly from the South. These accompanied theiu to the parallel of M',
although they ought to have blown from the North if these wiiuls change regu-
larly. Thus it i« winds from the northward, and purticulurly from llie N.W.,
which blow thu mo^t frequently, and occasion, as N'ancouvcr says, a great hin-
drance to any advance to the tiurthward ; the Spaniards, con!«e((uontly, in
general keep a long way off the coast, running much to the northward of the
parallel of their intended destination, tu arrive at it more readily- Vancouver
believes that they push this precaution too far ; he is of opinion that, by the
aid of the land-breezes from Kast and S.K., the duration of which is longer,
and which have also greater force than the sea-breezes, any port may be at-
tained. This opinion of Vancouver is correct, at least for the navigation from
the Itey of Son Francisco, in lat. 30", to (.'oncepciou i'oiut, in 34^% and even
farther North.

N»ar to the Bay of Kenay (or Cook's Inlet), Kodiak Island, and Prince
William's Sound, Vancouver found, in March and April, most freipu'irtly
winds from N.W. and North. In .May. .luno, .luly, and .Vugust, 17'JI, the
winds often blew from S.K. and Kast, with great force, but not less freriuentiy
than from N.W. and S.W. .Although ('apt. .Meares had a very strong wind
from S.W. under the parallel of 50", and that during the months of June and
July the winds oome more freqijc-ntly from Souih than from North, ho savs,
nevertheless, (page 231 of his Voyage), that during the summer mouths westerly
winds prevail as far as 30"" of latitude, with as much regularity as easterly
winds prevail from 30* to the Equa'or.

I am indebted to ('apt. Ilageme.ister, of our marine, for some notice on tho
predominant winds and currents in this part of the globe, and which he had
collected during a navigation of several years on the N.W. coast of America.
These notices tnerit the greatest confidence, being the result of a great immber
of observations made with tho most scrupulous exactness, particularly ui New
y\rchangul in Norfolk lUiy, and at Port Ui>ss (Port Uodcga , on the coast of
New California; both lie within tJie liiuiu which 1 have given to the tir.st zone.
It results from these observations, as well as from those already cited, that
northerly winds ore not the exclusive attribute of winter, as those of the South
are not of nummer, but the contrary ficquvutly takes place.

'.■l;'.l

f jr"™!

1180

TITK WINDS OF TIIK XOUTII TACIFIC OCKAN.

im ;?

Hy tho ohiorrntioni made at Nfw Archangel in lot. 67"' 3' N., it tetmt that
it in castrrly wiiulf, Bccoin|»niiiiHi with rain ami anow, that air predominant in
winter. At thr Ix^^inning of IkremlxT tbert- arv frwiurnt H<{uall« aod tcmpriit».
winch do not ocnir in nun'mor. iiml towunU thr end of ihiit month the Aurora
HDrenlcH nrr vor>- stronff About '"ii|>o ChirikofT, in lot. 6«' 9 , the current*
hnve a roni«tnnt North direction, and often with a velocity of 3 milea an hour
Tlic directio!) of the current nlon^ thin con«t in in f^eneml towardii the North ;
near to I'ort St Frnncin it take* a Went clirrction, towanl Prince WilliniiM
Sound and the entrance to Cook's Inlet, after which it turnii towanl the Smth.
a1^n^ the coanta of Ktxliak. The remain* of TPtaela ahipwrecked on the
Amer'«'ar. c««'it an* of\«<n found :il>out the »onthen) part of the ixland of Ko<hnk;
nnioni; them tli<>»H' of .Inp.inew? v< nu'W, which are rvco^iiified by the campbur-
w>nk1 of wlnrh they are built.

The foliowinjj remarks nre hy Mr. W. H. I»all, Actinf^-Anniiitant. rnitr<i
States Coast Survey, a» published in the Pacific Coast I'llot, Appendix i., IHT'.',
Washinpton.

Tlic uveru^re opinion, n» exprosoed by nhiji-manters, in re^anl to the winiN
whuh iiiny be IcK-ked for bctwi en Ik-riug .Strait anil San irtuiciscu is about at
follows ; —

A belt of north -westerly wituU oepiimtci* the Alaskan area of rariabie wimU
from an area of S.NN' winds :uid calms which extend in a general way along
the j>arnllel of iJO N. and n>«rthwaril from it. At llie ►ea>*on when the sjni' ;;
or outward pnsvigc i» m:uh .March to Muy"", the northwiMterM are geiiim.n
feeble, aiui tiie windo more or lefts variable Ktit the home pussa^^ July tn
November is mud' wlun the winds are well chanictev-ixed, and these naviira-
tor> asst rt that th«\ ^trlkc the l)clt of north-wtstint about lat. ■l.'i N., and. it
they can fret a not th- westerly bn-eze from the Fi>\ Ixlandx or Kadiak strong
enouj^h to ciirry them to lat- 4.> .they urvsiireuf a coiitiiiuauee, uud ul iiiiikiiii:
a |{(km1 pa.sna^jo.

tSiika — The bepinninji^ of the year is marke«l by a predominance of northcrlj
and eaitterly wiinN witli a southward teudciu-y as the Miiiton advances, soulii-
wcKterly and wixurly in Jul\ and Auj;u»t, after which theeimlcrly winds nfrim
pri doniiiiave. North wifitirly wiiidi* arc at no time numerous. Caliiii an
jKirlicularly prevalent in July and Auj{u«t, lij^ht breerea in May and Juoi
At the eijuinoctial ]>eri(Kls. and at intervaSs during the winter, heovy gaU-» arc
exjM-rienced The wiiidx which bring fog, rain, and sturnui, blow out of Siui
Sound, and tho!«e which clear the atmosphere are favourable for entering it
Obstruction by ice \d unknown

iSr I'tiul, hailtith — The rule that N W. and S.K. winds prevail more frc-
•piently than othem is ccmfirmed by ex|K*tience throughout this region. Hit
summer windu are irenerally liuht. thos*- of spring and autumn heavy, and »c»iri
gales, almo»t unknown from April to (IctulHr. occur at luUrvuls in <»iulfr,
csjHcialU in February.

KAN.

<., it iic«mt that
• predominant m
tils aad tctn)x*«i<i.
iinth the Auroru'
M , the currrnu
'2 miles tn hour
ardit the North .
'rince WiUinni »
Dwartl the Smth.
wrecked on ihe
••liiiid of Krwliak;
>y the camphor-

doistnnt, Tnited
]>|>rn(li« 1.. In?.',

1(1 to the wimio
icIrcu i* about n^

^{ T:irinbli' win.U
nt-ral way aloiic

vvhni the sjini'i;

n iro geiiiTnin
|)ii*«a^'e July to
rul lhi'!«e iiaviuiJ-
L. -4') N., r»nil. il
>r Kudiak »lruiig
o, uud uf m:ikin|(

nnce of northerly
advancft, snulii
Icrly winds n^'iin
•ouN. ('alin» ar'
May and Juix
, heavy gah"* ^"■'

jloW out of SltkJ

fur euleriiig .t

irerail more fro-
liii region. Ha
himvy, undM.\iTi
.Tvais lu wuitcr,

THE WINDS OF THE NORTH PACIFIC OCKAN.

IIBI

It is the exiMirienoo of narigatort leaving this port in the autumn, that if
they can take advantage of the rise of a stronfr north-wester, it can generally
be hehl until the Tcsscl ncars ('ape Mendocino. Sometimes, indeed, it carries
the fortunate craft we)l in by I'oint Ilcyes before dying away.

Iliuliuk, Vnulatka. — The wind* are pretty evenly distributed. May, June,
and July, are marki-(l by nuni<rouB calms. The equinoctial periods arc peculiarly
liable to novere south-easterly and south-westerly gales.

St. Paul liland. — The prevalent directions of the wind seem to be northerly
end southerly. In winter, N.W. winds are least prevalent of any; the same
is true of S.W. winds in Nuntnier ; in spring, northerly winds predominate.
Calms seem more numerous in winter. The winter gales, especially those
from the S.W., rival those of Antarctic seas in their severity. The gales most
justly dreaded arc those from the South and ^'.E., usually accompanied by thick
weather, squall^*, aud rain.

Rkhrino Sea.

Till of late years there was no complete account of the climate or winds of
this inclement region, and to derive it from the individual experience of the
various navigators who have recorded their knowledge would but give a falla-
cious view of the subject, us the features of its ditFi-rent shores vary greatly
from each other. Among the northern islands it is as humid und disagreeable
as possible. Sjirin^ does not begin till May. Dense fogs prevail throughout
the summer ; snow fulls iu October, and in December the North wiiuls bring
the ice, which remains frccjuently till May. Farther South, at liehring and
r'o])per Islands, the climate is not so rigorous, as explained on page 126.

'I'he follow ing remarks arc by Mr. W. U. Dall.

During the year nearly 60 per cent, of the wi Is in the region of Alaska and
I5crin^ Sea blow from the average directions of North, N.K., and East. From
Ajiril to September only -j per cent, of the winds come from the average
directions of West, N.W., and North, while from N.E. and East, S.W. and
South, 03 per cent, of all the summer winds proceed. From October to March
•50 per cent, of all the winds come from the North, N.E., and East; only 14
per cent, from the South, S.E., and S.W.

St. Michael's, Norton Hound. — It appears there is a general predominance
of North, N.Fi., South, and S.W. winds over all others. North-easterly winda
are parncularly prevalent from October to February. The winds in summer
are usually light.

Anadyr liiver. Eastern Siberia. — The prevalent winds at the mouth are
north-westerly, summer and winter, with those from the S.E. next. Calms wero
least rare in January and October, which also furnished a larger per-centagc of
gales than other months.

n«2 THE WINDS OF TIIK NoKTH TACIFIC OCEAN.

KAMrHATKA.

Oh the S. W. coast of Kamchatka oanterly wind* prcTkil in Aummer, »iiry!nR
lH>twccn N.E. an»l S K , will* frt^qiM-nl ouliiut, whilp wosU-rly wiiuUiirc ctiiiMUiii
from Septoiulwr u\\ May, ami are freijurntly Tory ttorniy. WwUfly wiii(l« m
humnMr l>ring bright finv weathiT, while oMterly windi bring aoow or riUQ.
Some further remark* arc ({two on page 781.

On thf 1-MM4 ciMut a fuUin^ barumvtcr imiicAtM • iioatb«'rl7or Miith-wf<it«rlT
wind, wiUi clear wcallur ; and a hmu^, or Umh bHmuieter, furetellH noiUnriv
and ca»t4.-rty winds, with fit^y and diMt{j^y>ablc woathrr. On tho W'vnt CMct,
however, the reverac hiij»|»rii!», a* f<«|0?y wt-othor ae(« in with southerly nuJ
S.W, windti, and tiiK? wcntiuT with eimterly win<U.

At l^tropmloMk th«n' i» a decided prej»on<loranco of N.W. and 8.K. windu;
S.W. wimh« appear rery rnre. In vummrr, li^ht winds are the rule. Nhvi^'»-
tion opeiut about June 1, and elosi'a about November 24. Id leaving thin [)<>rt,
or the Okhotnk Sea, for San Francisco, in ()ctobt<r, as is usually duiie by
American tishenuen or trndere, it in aimotit the invariable experience of xhip-
inostrrH that, when four or five djiys mit fr< in port, very Bc*-en> gtilc.i from tlie
N.W. ore cucountcred, oud those often hut for several days. — Air. H'. 11. D>UL

8ka or Okhotsk.

According to M To««an. tho prevailing winds on tho northern and wexu-m
shores of the Sea of Okhotsk, during June, July, and August, arc frmii tlir
southwsnl and cu!«twnrd, and seldom from any other i|uarter, motlornte, wit!i
either fo^ or rain. In Scptcmb«'r, about sunset, the wind, which dunti;; ilie
day is from tlio s<mthwi»id. \cers to tho westward or north-westward, and re-
mains fresh from that cpiartrr during the night. During the whole uf tiiii
month the sky is clear, and the wind iinHlerate. AlM)ut the heginiiinK nr
middle of September suuthurly gales are said to be ex]>ericiice4l, hut this month
has in other resjxrts tiiier weather than August. From tho middle of Oct.iW
to I)eeeml>er stormy weather and gales may be expecte<l, with winds from iia^t
and S,K. ; when the wind is North and N W., fine weather follows.

From I)eceml>or to April tho wind is from North to N.K., fresh, with srl'ir
sky ; bringing snow if it hauls to the eastward. In April and May the win Is
arc moderate, from North during the night, and South in the day.

Near tho h'uriie Itlamit, the wimls during the summer months are 'ti'I t>
be varioblc ; with winds from S S K. to .S S. W. the weather is usually fiv;;y.
but the sun is ofUn visible through the fog; F,ast and N.K. winds briiiK run
and bad weather ; with the wind from N.N.K. to N..N.W. the weothcr clear*,
and the temperature is culd ; it is also cold with the wind from .N.N \V ti
W.S.W , and the air is dry and hn/y Witli the wind between S.S.W. aiii
W.£j.W. the sky u clear, and fogs arc rare.

EAN.

Hummer, rarying

iiKlnareconNtJint

V^wUfly wiiida III

m snow or riun

ortouth-wrMtirlr
ort'trllH noiUuriv

th toutherly auJ

THE WINDS OF THE NORTH PAriFir OCEAN

11R3

^»^« nrc nearly conatant in tho S«>n of OkhoUk ; thoy are mosi dense with
S.K. or PORtrrly windH, and ofF-nhnrc winds diN|)erse them.

Okftotuk. — Vciy little niin fells hero, only il inches per annum. Except in
summer, the winds blow almost exclusively from the northward, and from
October to March there is hardly any but a northerly wind. Calms are most
prevalent in May, June, h..A July- Stnm|{ winds are most noticeable in March
and September, and least so in 1 )i>cember. Navigation is open on the average
l)y June />, and clows by October 17.

Aiiin. — The winds here arc chiefly from N.E. and N.W., the former pre-
dominating iv spring and autumn. The most severe windM occur between
8eptein)>er and February. Navigation opens about June II, and closes about
November 30.— J/r. H'. 11. Dall

and S.K. wind*;
e rule. Nsvi^^*-
leaving thw jxirt,
usually (Imie by
xrrienco of nhip-
re giiUrs fmm tti«

Mr. W. U. DalL

leni and WMlom
wt, arc from the
, modernti', wit.'i
rhich (luring' \\\v
estward, and n-
he whole of thii
;hc b«'>»in(iin(; 'ir
d, but this nioiiih
uiddle of OctntHr
windfl from Vm\
ollowt.

resh, with srl'ir
d May ihf w... U
day.

mths are *^\|\ D
is usually fo^';;y,
ivinds briii^ run
) weather rloiir«,
rrt)m N N W ;.
■ccn S.S.W. aiil

OrtF OF Tartast.

In the Oulf of Tartar}- and La Porouse Strait, from January to March, in-
clusive, northerly winds are said to prevail, veering from N.K. to N.W., with
fre<(uent g)ilcs and snow storms. In March the wind hauls to eastward. From
April to August, inclusive, the wind is from the southward and eastward, the
prevailing winds between April and July being between South and 8.K., veer-
ii»g occasionally to K.N.E. ; these castt>rly winds bringing very foggy weather.
Moderate S.S.W. winds at times intervene, and bring fine clear weather. At
times tlic sea is as smooth as a mirror. Sometimes the S.E. wind is high and
Bijually, and occasionally in May a furious south-easterly gale and snow-storm,
lasting ten or twelve hours, has been experienced ; they may be expected with
a previously freshening breere from the East and S.E., and sometimes a rapidly
falling barvmeter ; the wind in these storms risen and falls suddenly, and will
most probably veer to the South, S.W., West, and perhajis N.W. Winds from
N.W. during this periml of tiie year ore of short durntioa.

In September the wi'id becomes variable, north-easterly winds being the
most prevalent, and g«>nerally blowing from that «juarter round tt> the N.W.,
West, and S.W., with fine clear weather after the middle of August, when Oie
fogs, which are almost continuous from March until that time, disappear. About
the time of the equinox unsettled weather is experienced, and gales are frequent.
In October westerly winds predominate; they commence at S.W., but soon
haid round U) West, and ultimately settle at N.W., from which quarter it gene-
rally blows strong, gales lasting often two to four daj-s.

From October to December, inclusive. North, N.W., and sometimes N.K.
winds prevail, fre<iucnt sncw-storms accompanying winds from the latter
quarter. The principal direction of the wind, however, during winter, is
W.N.W. andN.W.

In the Amur River, during spring and summer, S.E. and Eost winds prevail,
often accompanied by fog and rain ; calms arc rare, and westerly winds lu

11^4

TIIR WINDS OF THE NOUTH rArlFIC OTFW.

J";

sumnirr bring fini' wrnthor. In nutumo tbt wind is from Weal and N \V ,
gtMu-rnPy blowing strong.

The haromctor in Mny. June, and July. 18AS, mngrd botwern '29 fir, snl
80-98. fidling oner to 2\tO in a hravy noutb-caalcrly gale. During winter it
is always high, aomrtimea ai high aa 30 A6.

The following rcmarkw nrr l>y Mr. W. H. Dnll.

S'ikolaitjfik, Amur //iivr.— We«t*rly and coBtrrly wind* prpdominntc ,
northerly and wjutberly one* lire nlniost unknown. Juno, July, iind Au;;i|.t
hiive ft gren* ; 'edonunnnee of soutn-eanterly wiii.U. Auguit, September, iiuJ
OcloIxT lia •• the largest pereentnge of enlmi*.

/>iii, Saijhaltn lilanii. — The wukIb prment fi dcciileil predominnncc of
northerly and Noutberiy breeren, soniewaht (ewer from the eni»tward, nix! tiry
few from westward Southern wiixl!* predonunale in aummer. July and August
atfonl the ihdnI ealm weutlier.

At AM«Mri<ji the j)revnlent wind* nre from the East and Weft, and at
Muruvifjf' ISttt Ujc mofrt prevalent winds nre from the West. I'.iwt, and S.W.

Jatan.

f>n pages 779 — 782 nre some remnrkB upon the elimale of Jajinn, nnd wc
here give itonie ftirthcr particulars u« to the prevalent winds, lis given in the
••Chinn Sen l)irect<>iy."

Though there are considerable loeal \arintinns in the direction of the winl^
along the extrnxive st'O-bourd of the Jujuinesc Arebipclugo, the foilowin;;
apiK>ar to l>e the normal chaiigi»* which occur throughout the year. The pro-
Tailing wind is from the northward, variable between N.K. nnd N.W., or nif
the Inml. the nvernt;.' wind biiiig N.K.

Kmm January to March, inchrive, wimls from the northward and westward
prevail, shifting occasionally to the North or north ea^tward. From April t"
June the w inds are light and variable, princi]>ttlly from the northwanl rntuul
to West, and i«>mctimcs S.W., witli frwjuent calms ; the latter end of May
and the whole of Jiu»o is said to be the ra;ny season on the Soutli and Ya*\
coasta. the winds ajc then variable, but haul to the soutliward towards the
middle A June.

From July to September warm souther!) winds, variable In'tween S.K. and
8.W., prevail, winds from S.K. being more prevalent during August nnd Stp-
terober than in any other months. The weather is uniMttle<l about the |K'n(>d
of the autumnal »><juinox, and the wind becomes variable, continuing so until
the middle of (»etol)er, but gradually settling to the north- weittwani, nnd be-
comes tolerably steady from that (|uarter al)<)ut the latter part of that monlli
In July thunder-storms are of fre<juenl occurrence

From October to I>«'cemi)cr inclusive, moderate northerly winds, frnm
N.W to N.K., prtvail, with tine weather ; a bright day with a clear sky btnij'

RAN.

V't'it and N W,

worn '29 6. 'i ami
)urin},; winUr it

Is prpjominiitc ,

ily. iihd Auj;ii«i

Sfj)tomb«r, iind

irodominnncc of
*twiird, nn<i mtv
J uly and Au^unt

tl Woi>t. and nt
I'.iist, and S.W

Jnpnn, nnd we
nil );ivi-n in the

ion of the will !«
">, tlic fiilliiwini;
year. 'I ho ]ire-
jd N.W.. or oir

rd nnd wrttwanl
From April t >
lorthwnnl rimml
UT end of May
South nnd Kftst
ard toward.t tlie

twpon S K. niiJ
Augtiiit and S«p-
ibout the jH'riod
tinning »o un'a!
htward, nnd he-
uf tluit muQlii.

ly winds, from
I clear sky Uirij'

Tnr WINDS OF THE NORTH TACiFIC Of'KAN.

11B5

i;pnrml1y a sign uf a Htrung N.W. wii.d. Occasionally a N.E. wind fiushuns
into a gale.

Oal«r — Ordinary gnlcs occur frc<piently throughout the year, their p-cvail-
ing direction being from seaward, bets"»ecn 8.K. and H.W. In the winter
months, gales from N.lv, S.W., and West, are often experienced near tho
coast. The bannnotrr generally rises previoun to a gale from the northward,
and if it fall after a strong N.K. wind has set in, bad weather will follow.
]ieforo n southerly gale tlu; barometer falls, and frequently a long heavy swell
rolls in from the southward.*

From Noveniber until Mny local gales blow down the numerous channels
and gulfs, i'!4p(.'cinlly in the Itoungo nnd Kii I'linnneU, and the Oulfs of Owari,
Suruga, and Vedo, frc(|ucntly lulling at the sun's or moon's setting.

liitromettr. — From Oecember to February, inclusive, tho mean pressure
over the JnpancKO Arcnipclago varies from SUlU to 30*30, the lowest isobar
in these niontliH la'ing farthest inland, whilst the highest follows the line of
coast. In Mureh, Ajiril, nnd Mny, the pressure is more evenly distributed than
at any other period of tlio yenr, excepting November. The weather during
these months is very fine, though moderate rain falls, increasing in the latter
month. In June, July, nnd August, there is great rnrintion of pressure over
the southern portion of Japan, more eKpeeially on the S.K. coa.<«t. In October
the pressure increjwes, nnd nuich rain falls on tho S.E. const. In November
the pre-sure in nearly c<|Uttlised, and the weather is fine. — Uluff- Commander
T. II. I'nard, H.M.S. CAiUUuyer, IBT.Vf

On the East Coast^ the picvniling wind.s during the winter, November to
ilnreh, are lH;twi-iu North and VVcut. If the thermometer rises much above
aoOll easterly winds may be expected, lasting from one to two days, with fine
weather ; the bnromer then falls, nnd the wind becomes variable, with rnin.
Should llie wind " Imek " through North and N.W., and the barometer fall to
ii'J (j07, n westerly gnlu may with certainty be expteted.

Easterly gnlcs set in with a high barometer and very cold weather, the baro-
meter remaining stationary until the wind veers to N.K., when, should the
barometer then fall, more bad weather may be exjx-cted. When they occur

• off Yodo, in Fobruaty, IS63, 11. M.S. HictUow t-xperienuod a iharp ptlo of ten hours'
duriition, with liltlo or no wHriiiriK- Tho aky wiis vory cloar, with«tei«ly fiUling biirometer,
and in twu hours thi' sliip wub rtdui i^d to floHf-rocffd iiiain-topsitii, Ac. In August and
Rcpt«nibur, 1H.')H, MM S. Fitrwia ciporiencod lutvy gales from E.N.K., Khilting round to
thi- southward and wcHtward.

t " Contributionii to the Motcorologj- of Japan," published by Authority of tho Moteoro-
logical (JoBmittiH'.

X The following local particulars are principally abri Igod from u Taper on the Motor-
ology of Japan, by Capt. Kl-iinmann, in tho .l»naien tkr y/yi/ruyr«//Akr, lluft. ii., IH81.
^I'urth I'acijic, 7 ^^

5r''i^!i

-'' i

1186

TIIK WINDS OF TIIK NOUTH PAririC Of'KAN.

i :• i

m\ till* p^riiMln «f full <»r chiniKir of the ni«w>n, thry arr u^unUy Ti'ry rinlinl
Northwiinl nf Kinitkuiuiii, (owartU 'li>uK»r Strait, i-iikU*rly Miutia hang to Uiv
K.S.K., liriiiKinK iJiicli wmtlu'r, miow, un«l mm.

As a rwlf. the Imronii-^i-r falU brforc wmlfrly Rulra Mt in, aiMl rinea Ufore
ptwtt'rl) \fn\cn «p|M>«r.

TowanU tlir oimI of Murch the wMti'rly winda docn»««e l>oth in force an 1
fir.|u««ncy ; aixi <lurin»{ .\|>nl iiiiii Miiy thr wcathrr it finr, with light v«iri«lilc
MiHiln. 'Ihf «intw<x-ii Siuth
aitU Kaat. the lattrr Ininf; !tcc»m|>uni<d hy rain. Foga arc ri|>rrionce wcathur it chaiigvabli* ; wiikK
from North ami NVctit prrpontU'ratiiig.

Jn th* Sno I < Ai north- wt'atrrly wimlt prrruil throughout the winter m<iiit!i«,
with tiry, clear, ami bright Wfutla-r. After March untettlrd wcathtr. with
huu- and orcamoiial rnin, coutinuf* for a thort timt< ; and in the tuiniiict
inontht liiftit rnnablr wiiuU, |triiw i|>all\ from the N.K. and S W., with fro(|iiriit
cnlniii. art" i»|M'ru iiccil. <iulo» ociiir at the i*<{uinoXP«. Mimctinic* blowing lianl,
from S W., for a day or two; they aliiiott luvariaUy veer "with the tun,'
and blow hardett from \\\*\. to Nt»rth.

In tkf O'u/fof Yfiio, during oprin;; and tuinmrr, Trry ritdont and Midden
tnjiialli* from the North conic on frc<|ucntly without any warning from n.\nh*\
a calm. Tlieiw s«)uall« huvo also Utn cx|»criciiced by TcttcU |>tt»Hiiig Ik-ikiwii
^ okohamn and llaiiodate - (apt. C. S. Stanhope, II. M.S. (tctan, !h(>)4.

In .March, April, and to the middle of May (when the rainii commeiicr\ the
climate it delightful, a* it ik aliMi in autumn. In tumiuer the maximum tciii
|M>raturo in the *>h»de i« S)> . and the evenings are cool and pleaMiit. In JuU
and .\ug\i»l. which are the huttckt, .S>uth wiudu, with a little wetting, arc pre
valcut in the gulf

From infurmatioii obtained at Vedn. it ap)>oant the prevailing windx tliroii){)i'
out the yiHr are lo the northward of l-jwt and NVc«t. nnd that tliow to tlic
Koiithward generally bring ImmI weather; alwayN, however, cautiiii{ the liiir'
meter to lull in tutiicu iii tune ti> enable u 'tt.'vtcl to ubtaiii a (iO ur bU uiii'*
otiing. should nhe lie nrur tiie cooat.

In tpring and •umiiicr wetti'riy windt are generally expcrienciHl betwein
f'Niwo minaki, :it the enliuiice to kii ( 'haniiel, and Mikomoto, on paiwiiig which.
the westerly wiud full*, and a N.l'. wind ih often found blowing litrull^ down
the (iu!' " Yedo.

Strong winiU from the S K. arc gencmlly accompanied with thiik wcntiicr
and rain. At tuch a {mtkkI it it rtotimmended that a veaacl ImiuikI to th« went
ward from Yedo nliould run through the chain of itlaudt to the t«.>uthwar(l nf
Van Dicmen Strait, inntead of pall^ing through the i>trait ; for by taking tlu:*
latter route, and nut making Hutfieient allowance fur the north-eiixterly current,
the wimld in all probability find hentidf embayi*d on a lee shore to the nortb-
%»ard of Ca|>e Chithakoir and jmaaibly of Cajie I)'Au\ille (Toyi misaki).

•KAN.

Uy rvrj tiolrnt
ikU han^ tu Uiv

aiwl t'utv Ufure

nth in (orrc triil
ith li|{ht Tunable
in lN>tW(<«'n Smih
TH'ticetl all aliiii;5
laiigvAblv ; wiiuli

\r wiiitormoniln,
•d WfolluT, with
1 in the miniiiiit
NV , with froijiniit
uf^ blowing hanl,
with the tun, "

i>h>nt anil Middrn
rninn from :»lni.i#t

n |MUMIIIg iM'tWlfll

>cfan, 1HG8.
in comm»'ncr\ tlic
e mnxiiiiuiii trm
ilcasant In .iui>
c westing, arc pre

ng win«lH throw;;)!

that tlxHM- tu tht

i:aiuitii< the Imr'

a 60 ur M 111).-

K*rifnctHl U-twccii

on ti.u«nlli^ which.
wwig ktruiig iliiw:'

ith thiok wcnthor
ImiuikI t4) th« wi •'.
the auuthwani >!
for by takiii)( thii
lh-t'iutt«rly cum-nl,
tjore to the nortli-
uyi mitaki).

THE WINDS OF TIIK NOIITH PACIFIC OCEAN.

11R7

During II. M.S. Sararfn'» aurvey "f thi* Strait of Tutijar, May, June. July,
and Aiigiiat, \Hhti, the prevailing winil.H witl- from the South, with muoh finu
clear weather, The wind wna le.sM frp((uent fruin tho N.W. tlian any othvr
quarter. I>cnac fo^a prevnih-d in May and Juik>. The wind in l»)liftin^ uaually
followed tliH courae of liie Hun. After a few daya of light aoutherly wind and
Ano wi^thcr it frcahened, and veered tu the weatward, accompanied by Hue
clear and cold weather. At N.W. it uaually died away, or flew ruund auddvnly
tu the eaatward ; in the latter caae it wua alwaya followed by a denao fog or a
gale ; tltc weutht-r getting fine again ua the wind veered to tho aouthward.
(Sec also pp. H64-5.)

TeM Iiland. — From Jantinry to March the wind ia weatcrly from North to
S.W., but atrong N.W. wintU prevavl. April in very iinaettlcd ; N.W. winda
prevail until the middle of May, when the wind haula to the acnithward.
Southerly winda, variable between Weat and Kaat, with occaaional calms, pre-
vail until the end of .liiiie, iiiitl giiloa are not uiifreqt ent. In July and August
light variable wiiuU from the .southward, lM.>twe«n S.W. and S.E., with occa-
aional callus and fine wuuther, are cxjwricnced. In Si-ptembcr the weather
bec«)iues unsettled, and galea are of frequent occurrence. During the winter
inontha westerly and iiortli- westerly winds are said to blow uIim >st continually,
and usually with great violence.

On the South and Kaat coiist.s, winds from S.W. round ac-nwnrd to N.E.
bring fog almost without exception, whilst those off the laud, or from West to
N.K., are accompanied by tine weather. Foga make their appearance curly in
June, increasing in density and duration until August.

At Hukoitdtf the barometer is highcat in ( >ctober and November, and tho
most rain falls i4i July and August during easterly winda. N.W. wiuda aet in
in the latter part of October, and continue until Masch ; S.W. winds preTail
in .\pril ; South in May; S.K. i.i June; and I'^t in July and August; the
wind gradually veering round during spring and aummcr from S.W., round by
South, to Kast, audileuly Hying back again to West at the autumnal e({uiuoz.
North winds seldom blow here, while N.E. winds are rare. Tho break up of
the warm weather at the end of August, or early part of September, is usually
aecompanied by one or more typhoons, tho centres uf which invariably pass
westward of Hakodate.

Kurile Iilandl. — Little is known of the metcoroloj;y of this locality ; the
islands iiro saitl to be constantly envelojied in fog. On the Pacific coast, froai
January to March, nsrtherly and north-westerly winds are said to prevail, and
throughout the winter much heavy weather, With freijuent strong gales, accom-
panied by snow and aleet. From April to June south-easterly winda prevail,
with iVcqucnt calms. From July to September wiuda from tbo south waid,

I1«R

TRK WINHS OF THK NoRia rACIKIC (MT.AN.

mrinhlp h*twi««>n Wr«t aini Kw»t. prrvnil, with ooraBionat cmlia*. W«it#rly
wituU art in in Sr|iUMiilM-r, nml prevail priiK-ipAily fruiu N.W., frooi whicli
quarter thoy blow violently throughout the winter.

Weat CoMt of Vipoo I>urin(7 the winter month* •tronj< Went and N W
witiiU prcviiii, hlowing to c<>ntinni>u«ly a>i to priMliirp ii v. ry hi|{h •ra uU nIohi;
thf WpAt ronxt of .lapiin, no thnt only |M)w<Tful Mteurnrm can nnvif^te ilm
oonot, with any urcurity, liiirinK the winbT aoaAon. VpmmU iMiund uorth«anl
ut thin MeaMm ohouUl keep along thv larlMry *horr, whcic tiiicr woalhvr will
be c«p<'n«'nc«-J.

TowartN April thr woathrr l>op<>mo<» finrr ; May brings ••a»t»Mly wiml*. *ith
rain, and tin- •iiinnur i» very wvt. Ituring oiiiinuer South and S.W. v.iuU
pri'tlotninato, with tinr w«-ath«T, l>ut they arc very ch.tngt-al)le. Kogti occur
during till' summer moiithi.

On llio Wrat cixiRta of J.i|>nn. including the .In; nn Sfn. Korea Strait, nnd (!■
northern jwrl of the l.a^ltrn S^a, llic wcnthrr la aa ii»lljw« : — lu the !»[irin^,
from aUtul March to June, and atJineliueH iti July, the wind* are nlmo<«t con
htiuitly from the laatwitrd. veering U-lwren X.lv and .">.i;. ; moderate in force,
with niUit and ram, nnd gluoniy okiea. it frequer.tly frvahona up to a iitrong
bree/.e, with (iinially weather generallv from N K. I'almn and light wcklcrlj
wiiiils occur in xninll ]>r>>portion. and hriiig Ix-autifui wtatlier.

'I'here are ocenMounI ctrong g'llea, »unK-lifnen of (ive dayi' duration, the wiu.i
fretthcning up from the F^mt generally cummencing from S.K.), with fullii)){
Imrunieter, nnd blowing with vunnhh* force for thiee or four dayN, then chup
pine rourul huddmlv to South, or veerin;; to North nnd N.W , according t.i
the 'Quarter of the pa»!iing Htoriii, when thr gult* attuini ita tnaxituuin furrr.
and biuw» itjulf out in u few hour<i, or in one or two dayi, according to the
»ca«t<n. Ihe buruineter givca giNnl warning. 'I'hc gale ulwaya attaina ita hrigl;'.
after the mercury hoM commenctsl to riae, and uaunlly blown with the grrat*<t
viohnce from the N \V. SmuJI cyelonea of short duration are also kimwa w.
June; they travel northward, but later in the year Iwtween N.K. and K.ift
(ialea aet in grnerally with but little warning, the only prognuatio iMnng a
heavy swell. 'Ihe barometer fulla quickly, and the gale eommencea from .S.W..
accoiiipauird by blinding anow-Ktorma ; the wiiul may lie ei|»eetrd at ii r
moment to veer ttuildenly t/i N \V in a heniy «i<juall, then coutiuuiiig I' i • •«
in furious twjualU, alternating from N.W. to S.W.

On the S.W. Coast of Japan, iluring the winter, N.W and weatcrly win's
prevail, nnd often blow with great violence, accunii>anied by anow, hail, or
rniii, nnd a heavy »ea A utmug S Iv wind, with much rain and o f-Jlim:
barometer, i» a forerunner of a westerly gale with clear weather In ilii;
aunimer Vm*\ nnd S F. wind* prevail, with thick and niiny weather; Junf »ik1
July bringinj^ foga August bringh unsettled weather on the cuaat, with «ljurl

r.AN.

aliiu. WMterljr
\V., frool which

Went and N W

li^h >ra all hIoiik
an nnri|tnte thi«

iMHind uarthwtnl
ur wottlhcr will

ti'ily winil*, with
ami S.NV. vnwU
lile. K<>jf« occur

■ca Strait, und the
: — lu the "prinj;.
1 art" almost con
mxIrruU- ill force,
if< uj» to a Btrnni;
1(1 ligl>t wvk'.tri)

iirutioii, tlir wiiwl

Iv). with LWv.ji

iliiVH, then chuji

\V , arciirili(i){ t

I maximum fonr.

arronliiig tn th>

attains it* hrigh'.

with the ^'rr»t< It

TO altto kiiown ::.

n N K. and Ka»t

rogiiustic iM-irn; «

iieiiccd from S \S .

oi|»ectrd at i; v

wutmuiag t« L.'»

THE WINDS OF THE NORTH rACIFIC OCF.AN. 1189

gdlra from rnriuua quartcra, nquulla, rnin, and frec{ueiit oalma. During Sep-
tfinlior and Octubor, nnd in tho curly part of November, H.K. aad S.W. gale*
HoiiiftimFa occnr, aceompanieil by hi>avy ahowcra of ntin. November brin[,-a
thu S.W. wiimI, which prvvuilH in the Korea Strait and Ja|ian Hea during tho
winter montha. During January and I'ebiuary northi-riy wiuda with aiiuw-
atorms occur, with u falling iMromrtcr.

In I'an Ih^mtn Stratt northerly windn prevail for nearly eight months of
the year ; from September to Deceoibcr, inoluaive, they are to the cuHtward of
North (prinripnily N.K ), while from January to March they haul to the weat-
ward, N.W. Ix-ing the direction of the prevailing wind. During the numm«r
monthH the wind in either from the I'^uit or Weat.

S«a of Japan.— Comparntively little ia known regarding the meteorology of
thif* wa. According to KruHenatern, " North and N.K. winda blow for ten
months in the year on thu Mast cooat of the Korea, and if HoruetimeH they
ch»ng« to the South duriug thit* time, which ia rure, it ia ooij 'ir a abort
Ume."

From January to March, inclusive, northerly winds prevni' on the Korean
coaHt, hauling to thu weatward, in thu middle of the Jiipun i ; ou the eo^iot
of Tiirlary Noii'h"- u and south-weHti-rly wioda prevail, and on tlie ^^nt coant
of the Japan S<>u westerly aud north -wetiterl) wimla aud ealma a' e\[>erienced.
From i^iiil to Jiiiiu the wiiidii are variable, but light aouihuily v>- iidi« prevaiU
with fre<]uent oalmti and tine weather, eN))ecially between the parul!,'i of 40^
and 46 N. : the wind haulx to the eaittward on the coaat ot Jupu^. From
July to Septeiuhcr, on the Korean couat, niodcnite northerly winds prevail,
with fine weatlier in September. In the northern purtuf the aeu, fogv and rain
laitt until AuguMt. Fogn prevail from April to June, incluaive, all over the Sea
of Japan, and are most dense iu June.

In the Sea of Japan violent a<iuulla occur at all aeaaono, but more especially
in the winter, (iales occur at the equinoxes, generally commencing at S.E. un
the contit of Japan, and veering to the aouthward and westward.

In Bummer, in the western part of the Japan Sea, light easterly winds are
predominant, with much tine weather and thick fogs, but much more variable
th:in in the spring, and aubject to short, sharp breezes, veering with the sun.
Towards the end of August they alteraate with westerly breexes.

About the autumnal equinox thu weather breaks up between the parallels of
41° and 4()'' N. In the middle uf September, \^o\i, u heavy cyclone was ex-
perienced (exceeding 500 miles in diameter and progressing to the N.K.) at
St. Vladimir Uuy and Hakodate at the same time, and was the heaviest atoriu
known at the place for forty years. There occurred between this and the
middle of November twelve other gales, ten of which were cyclones, and two
"blue north-westers," their force from 7 to lo, their duration two to four
days, with intervals seldom of more than two ur three duy^' tiuc weather be-

A Z,

1 1 '.»<>

TIIK WINDS OF THE NORTH PACIFIC OCKAN.

twt«««n thorn; tho normal direction of the wind wu from S.W. to N.W., with
frt-nh ami strmig brct'ws.

Soiithwunl of r N., NoTcnilxT wan fino with li;jht N.K. and N.W. windv
'ITie N.W. winds bccj»m«.> prcTfilont U)\»arL>ctinb«T, the wmd mnaiiuHl l>ctwc<'n N.W. and W.S.W. ahuoMt coni»tHntl\,
otvly reennn «»cca»ionnlly •• far ft* S.W. and North. The weather «.vn fiuu
when the wiud waa BMMkrale, but very froah brueaca brought raiu ur uiow.

TllR I«I\!»I>«.

The variotj* nrohi|»olapr>e* an»l drtaehed ialandA of the North Pacific an
nearly all within the liiiuta of the N.K. trade wind, and therefore the |)*ni
iiariticfl of their mete«roi(»Ky ore very «iniply explained. Hut a« some of tlia
<hicf of these ^oujw, an the llnwniiun, the Marianaa, and the Carolines, lu un
the northern, witttern, and iKiuthern liuiita respectively, it haii been nrjjmii.
jK-rhnps fiillHcii'UsJy, that all the iitlundit have a marked etfect on tiie dirtiUon
of the general wmd. Hut when it ia conitidercd that the area of these island.,
moatly comilinc atolls, is so mtiailirwiuuily small, compartnl with the srf.i
which surroumU them, it cannot be conceded that these minute Bi)eck8 ou the
surfitce of the ^reat ocean can eicrcia« much intlucuce on the great belt uf llie
trade wind whiuh Wow» over it.

Taking tlie Sandwich Islands oa an example, it is shown in the drtcripts :i
of that arcliijKlano, pp. 10ti6 — lOfis, that lying as they do just within the
northern tropic, the N.K. trade blows without much intermission for iimo
months in the year, and that from I>ecemher to January, that is when llif tuu
18 in the highest soalhcrn latitude, they are interrupted, and that the isUad*
then are in the •* horse latitudes " of the tropic of Cancer.

The Mariana or Ladrone Islands are also exoeptionally placed. Fur ben'-
alM>ut IS the division uf the inonsoun region and that of the N.K. trude. I he
."^.W nionsooi. evidently rcachi-s the an:hi|M'lugo Ix-lween the middle uf Ju::c
and the middle uf (Jclober, but is only violent and changeable for a few vi'va
in the begtnnin;; or end of lUt season. During the middle, as in August anJ
September, ih*. air is calm, and the heat almost unendurable. This subjoc*. a
further elucidated on pages 103'.* — 1041.

Thv Caroline Islands lie on th« southern verge of the N K. trade, and :i.'e
subject to all the viciMitudes of the change of seasons. Mrs. (iuliclr uiu' >'fi
family to whom we owe much of our knowledge of the islands uf the NdrlL
Pacific, being the wife of a most zealous memotr of the Hawaiian missiun, kipt |
a meteorological register for three years, iMia — 5, at Astensiun or I'onapi.uil
from the results tabula'.ed on psge \>l.i, it will be seen that the N.lv trade .*
only iiilerruptt-d between July and November, at ilie t»nu when this stJuUi
margin, following the sun in its course, posses to the northward, leav

IliTI.

'L,

;r:AN.

V. to N.W.. with

ftnd N.W. win.U
innth. At llako.
cighlot'n <l;i\« 'if
ilmtMtt conMtuiuIv.
wrBtbtT was fiuu
t raia ur snow.

North Pacific an
iiTffore the pfcu
it an Ruiue of tli«
c ('uroline», lie un
bun beeu ar^utti,
t oil the dirrcUoii
•a of thfve ulamK,
rtnl with the ami
lutc ii]>vck8 ott lilt.'
c ^ivut belt of liie

in thf tliiicrijitii 1
tio juHt williin thf
eruuMion for m;ir
.at is w}u"U the »uu
>d that the isUudi

pincod. For her"
; N.K. triuU- li;-^
he uuiKlle nf Jii:>-
ble for a few wwki
08 ill Ati|;u«t aiiJ
le. This »ubjoci u

IK. trade, ami ce
ru. (iuliek one >'f i
Uiidfl of the Norili
Nriiiiuii iniuiuii, kept
Miou or I'oiiapi. tiii
, the N K. traiK' >
wheu thut soulliirn
hward, Itiiviu* ''«

TlIK WINDS OF TOE NORTH TAriFIC OCEAN.

1191

archipelago in the belt of calms ur "doUlrums," but which have not the cha-
racteristics uMually attributed to this /one, oa the number of calm days ia
generally fiuwcr than is found to be the case in the zones either North or South
of them.

In the descriptions of the other groups of islands will be found many noticed
of the cliiuatti and winds, which will be sufiicieut to give an idea of this simple
subject.

The Mojjsooxs nro described in our Directory for the Indian Ocean, pngcs
2H — 04, and in thut for the Indian Arehipclugo, China, &c. pages 1 to 25. To
those works, which are eonuceted with the present volume, and to the nccom-
panying diagrauist, the rcadei is referred for a cuuciso account of thcr origin
and effect.

HTJERICAHES arc but little felt in the open ocean in the North Pacific,
and do not diU'cr in their phenomena from those experienced in the other
oceans. Some remarks on those which occur olF the West Coast of Mexico,
during the months of July to October, are given on pp. 8 J — 85 and 119 — 120.

TyphoOM.— The whole of the western portion of the North Pacific Ocean,
between the parallels of 10" and l.')" \., together with the China Sea, is sub-
ject to violent cyclonic storms, termed tyi)h<M)ns, which, between 2('' and 45"' N.,
are exiKrienced from .Tunc to Nov(>mbcr, more particularly about the equinox.
They nr* seldom felt within 5" or 6'' of the E(iuator, and have not been traced
into very high latitudes.*

Tyjjhoons originate in tropical latitudes, and, according to Professor Dove,
are caused by the upper winds forcing their way into the lower ; but Professor
Rcye, in his work " Die Wirbelstiirmc, Tornados, und Wettersiiulen," con-
tends that the cause is the C({uiUbrium of the atmosphere being upset by the
caloric set free by the condensation of atmospheric vapour.

At tlie outset they usually take a W.N.W. course, but when the centre
pa.sses out of tropical limit* they almost invariably re-curve, passing away to
the northward, and then to N.K., expending their force in th« open Pacific.
Their average rate of progression otf th« shores of Japan is about 18 miles an
hour- They blow in violent scjualls, accompanied by heavy ruin ; in their
centre the barometer Bometimes sinks us low as 28 inches.

Cajit. H. C. lit. John, II. M.S. Sylvia, muk«6 the following remarks :f — The

• A more ox>ntio<! account of thcap cyclonps, with riilo* for avoiding thrm, will bo founa
in the Kurth AtUiitio M«inoir and the Indiin Dcoan Directory. Svo, al«o, "A Baromcttr
Manual for tliw Uho of Sfnmon," ifsnrd liy Authority of the Moteorulojjical Council ; uud
•• Komnrks on Ktvolvindf Siormii," imliliaht'd by tho Admiralty, 1883.

t " Notc» aud Sketchos from tho Wild Coaata of Nipon," 1S80.

~ B^— —

1192

THE WINDS OF THE NORTH rACIFIC OCEAN'.

tjptioont which occur in Japanese waters are, I believe, alwaya distinct from
the China utormo. Originating in tropical latitude* their first course u U) tho
N.W., the nunc as that of the Kuro Siwo. It ap|)cara they then pass over
the mme |^)iind, i^rudually turning; to the North with the warm rurrcnt,
•trikiog the South coast of Jup.-in. just ■• they incline away to the norlh-ea.'.t-
ward. Ilieir northern di!«c now lM<cunie« flattenL>d in af^inst tlie high moun-
tain mnjfps. The m neml N E. direction of the coast is then followed, until
the S.E. comer of Ni|>on is nachcil. whon thoy jxims out to the open I'antir
The ri«ult of these circular HU>rms bc>coming thittoned on their norlljcrn »«• n.i
diameter is tltat easterly winds prevail during titcir passage along the coait,
thcMC winds being exnclly against the course of the current, 'i'he result of tw<>
such force* meeting is a horribly confufted sea, alike trying to man and klup.

From long rxjuTunce it became ca.^y to fori'li-ll tlie approach of these dii-
agreeable visitors First, as a nevir-failing in<licator, the barometer oUm!*
xmrivalled. It luu-^t, however, be thoroughly understood before reliance on it
can be felt, the ordinary rising nnd falling uf the mercury being quite in<ufi-
cu'Ut. S{H'akiiig t^'itierally, n fulling barometer with the wind between .\.\V
and r^t (through North u a bad sign. A long heavy swell setting in from
the S.R., without any previout wind from the same direction, is anotlur
suspicious imUcation. The sun setting uinungNt high-banke<l cloudx, anl
giving out copjier-colound rays, denotes some uncomfortable chnn^o. Dinis
c«ming itli>adily in from seaward, us if anxious to be near shiluT, is a mtt
certain fore-ruuuir of ba»l weather. If all, or one or two, of Uiese »igii» wore
observed at the same limr, when the weather was otJiorwise bright, fine, nnd
everything that ik pleasant, my maxim was, '* (iet to a safe harlniur." The fj'ii-
ing barometi-r, ninl the (iwdl .setting in, generally gave forty -eight hours warn-
ing, but the ollu I imlicatious were less reliable.

When these >ii'>tiii!« i>cciir, if a port cannot be reoched, the next l>e»t thing
is to get well away from the coani , at the same time tlie land hardly ever be-
comes a lee-sliore, owing tu the course these stonns almost invariably lake;
and, in any case', if hove-to on the right tack, a good ship, properly maiiui: .1
ought l<^> weathei it well.

It u a strange peculiarity of these storms that they fre<iuently travel in [).iir>
On two occasions I expe-rienccd this; the interval in each cose between tin'
j)a»sage of the storms was three or four days. — Capt. II. C. St. John.

The dcflectintj willuenec of the Kuro Siwo was si'cn in the typhoon of Sj -
teniber, 1»7b, winch Mr. K. Knipping, of the Marine < Khce, lokio, has ni:i';.
the subject of an elaborate investigation, in Heft xviii of the " .M.ttlieilun.'c.
der deutM'hen (iesellschaft " Mr. Knipping ban also published several oikr
valuable pamphlets on typhoons (X>curring in the vicinity of Japan

In the night of .\iigust I'O — Jl, 1^71, a typluMin commenced at Na;fuak:
In the course of the day the Imroineter had fallen from T '('J milliiU'ti'
('JU 88 lu.^ in the morning to 71^ 6 at ti o'clock in the vveuuig ; ui the iui'>

'Uoe Pill* •'•■'••'

►CF.AN.

ways dutinct from
rat courev u to tlii>
ey then pnu over
the warm current,
r to the north-fa^t-
It tlie hi{{h moun-
lon followed, until
• tho open I'arit'u
lirir northoro trna
^ along the cotit,
. The rv«ult of two
to man and klnp.
rottch of thce« dii-
barometer *t;mi!>
cfore reliance on i;
bving (}uite in^ulfi-
riud b«twern N.W
M'vll setting in from
rcclion, \» iinother
ankvil clouds, and
hie change. Uirds
ar (thiluT, i« a vitt
uf these sign* v^orc
fw bright, fine, nnd
harlniur." The fall-
y -eight hours warn-

he next best thing
und hardly ever be-

t invariably take;

proiierly maiiugi

ently travel in pair*.
:» ciuH- U'tween ttie
'. Si. John
\v lyjihixiii of Sij-
«•, Totio, has ni:ii-
the •• Mittlieilun.'iii
j^hed several oilier |
if Jatiaii.

enced at Naj^waki
iini TVJ millim. t!.-
enii»g ; ui the in^'

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fiteof pit^t U&2

LAURIE, 53, FLEET STREET, LONDON

TIIK WINDS OF THE NORTH PACIFir OfKAN.

ii;).T

fi] hours it m»iik ns low as 719-8 ('-'8 .1.') inO, or I J3 inch in 1 S houm, nnd ro8c
njjuin in th<' lu-xt !> hours almost to its nnnnal height. In that time and in
the three fdllowinn days over 1.0 inches of rain fill. — I'n>/,sM>r J. J. Hfin.

In the tropics, where the barometer varies so slightly under ordinary cir-
cumstances that any fall greater than -.l.^ in. is a sure sign of an atmospheric
disturbai\re, the prognostics of a typhoon are crident ; but in more temperate
latitudes, where the barometer varies considerably with no apparent atmospheric
change, the prognostics arc less certain. In Japan, the barometer during
Sej)tenibcr and ( )etol)er varies between J!) '.t and aoo ; but when it remains
very steady, with an increase of oppressive heat above the mean temi)erature,
and when thir is accompanied by a threatening asjject of the skv. a mi.sty halo
round the sun or moon, lurid clouds tufted in shape, a heavv bank of leaden-
coloured clouds in the horizon, liglitning, and frc([uently a long, heavv. oce.in
hWfll, then a tyjihoou niay be ectnddently expeettd.

We may here make mention of a valuable and interesting Paper, illustrated
with charts, by Mr. IT. Harries, of the Meteorological Office, read before a
meeting of the Uoyal Meteorological Society, November iHth. lH8.i. Mr.
Harries there traced the course of a typhoon which originated in about hit.
13 30 N., long. l;U K.. September iJTth, IHH2; across the Ni>rth Tacific
Ocean and the ccmtincnt of North America, whence it proceeded over the
North Atlantic Ocean, orriving on the western coast of Kuropc on October
27th, and thence jjussed away to the West coast of Norway and the Haltic Sea,
comjileting its course of about 1 1,<'"I' nautic miles in .'Jfi days, or at an average
rate of 10 miles per hour. The observations on this typhocn show that the
size of these meteors is sometimes considerably greater than various writers
have supposed it to be. as in the early stage of it« existence the disturbance
exfendi'il on the N \V. side to a distance of 1,300 miles from its centre.

rroceediiig slowly at first, on arriving at lat. '10' N., long. 130 Iv, this
typhoon began to (piijken its pace, and passed along the S.K. coast of Jaj)an
nt the rate of about 33 miles an hour, the barometer here reaching its lowest
jjoint, 2H-7. On passing away from Japan to the N.K., between October '2nd
and 3rd, it reached a speed of ol miles an hour; it then decreased in speed
towards the I'eninsulji of Aliaska, after passing which it again increased till
it struck the coast of Vancouver Island on October 10th, thus crossing the
I'aeitic at an average speed of 17 miles per hour. Its track acro.ss the ocean
is shown on the diagram facing page 1105.

As a guide to ni;>riners. Mr. Harries pointed out that a rising barometer,
accompanied by an increase of easterly wind, seemed to indicate the formation
of a storm to South and Kast of an observer m the ueiyhbourhood of the
northern edge of the tropics.

f .1

:.;r

*'! -

North Pacijir.

t N

«*«i

Li I

{ 1194 )

niAPTKIf XVI.

I if

THF nUUF.NTS OF THE NoUTII PACIFIC OCFAN.

\Vk. have in mnny i)luccs in the otlu«r Tolumm of this tcrics dcscriWd the
ponoml nvfilrm of ocenn currenU, and the cauM>4i which »*t them in motion, no
far a« in known, ho that little need \tt »nid here on the Bubject.

" N'arviiij? in vohnnennd vel(K'ity until they attain the proportions of gigantic
nver« Uowmj; ^in some pnrt» nt the rate of aeveral miled an ho.ir, the currents
occupy every part of the ocean, no part of which can ho said lo be in a con-
dition of nhsolute rest. Combined together they form, like the current* in the
atmosphere, n complete system of circulation, bj which the physical and
chemical eqiiilihriuni of the ocean is maintaine<l. From the principal store-
house of heat in the tropics, warm currents proceed towards the tem|H>ratc and
fripd rones, and return thence in the character of cold currents towards the
regions of the Kcpiator.

•• Two rurrents of lifTerent oripin, and therefore of different temperature,
wt i'^ht, ami chemical c<iTnposition. ineetiiip, niay present as solid on obstacle
tt> the progn-sK of each other as if they were barriers of rock, and one is com-
pelled either to alter its direction, or to flow above or below." — Mr. J. J. WiLI
The North Pacific i» the most simple in the arrangement of its currents. It
is a basin of circulatiin, aroun«l a central area lying along the tropic, analogou*
to the Sargasso Sea in the North Atlantic, and having the same feature of a
broad cijuatorial stream m-ttinj: we»n»aril, witn more or less constancy, betwern
H- or li> N. and the tr>pic. a reverting and strongly marked current, llie
.lajMine^e Cuirent, similar to the (iulf Stream, and a broad extra-tropical belt
setting generally eastward, but subject to much (luetuation.

lUit the North I'aeitic differs from the North Atlantic in not encountering;
any Arc tic influencis. Itehring Strait is too narrow and shallow to allow either
the waters of the Pacific to flow into the Arctic basin, as is the case with the
warmer waters ahmg the we«t<'rn coast of Kurope, or to )>ermit the ice-l)caring
streams from the ,)olar b^sin »o flow down to the Pacific, as iKk'S the I.Jibradi)r
Current. The«e varied changes arc almost inappreciable here.

As statetl in a former page ; 1 Kit) , the area of the I'acific is so great that the
forces which act upon the waters of the smaller oceans, the Atlantic and Indian

■p

:an.

ilcdcriWd the
in motion, no

nt of gigantic
, the currents
be in a con-
urrcntu in the
phyNical and
incipal itt^re-
Lemperate ami
I towards the

temperaturp,
(1 an obMtarle
id one ifl com-
V. J. J. Wil.l
8 currenttt. It
ipie, analogous
? feature of :i
ancy.betwiMii
1 current, llie
a-tropical belt

1:1 <

4? %

. encountering
to allow eilhir
I case with the
ihe icc-l)cariiii;
I the Labrador

) great that the
ntic and huUau

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THK NORTH RQUATOnlAL n^RRENT.

1105

OcranN, riprt M much more markvd rffpct on thetn than thry do on the currmu
of the I'aciKo. It ia tho aom« with thu winda, and thua itn mctrorohigy ex.
hibita but fpw of thuac {grander fcnturea which niiiy bv fuund vla«wbere, und
prr-rtninrntly rharaoti-ria*^ it an the " I'nritir " Ocean.

(>n tkia account the ocean currcnta arr uf Ichm importance to the navigator
fxrrpt in a fi-w rp|{iona, aiich an near tho E4(uut()r, tht> (iulf jf riuiania, the
ciiRMt of Miuico, or Routhwiird and raittward <if Jupaii. Klsuwhtit* thiy kci-in
to exert no very deftutt« iuHuvocc on a ship's course.

TIIK NORTH KlirATOUIAI, crumiNT.

The North Kquntiiriul Current, ext<>ndin^ to th«' mean liilitudi- of 24^ N., is
subject to tht) Tariatioiu experieucid iu lltt- southeru portion of this exteutiiva
drift.

In ita eastern portion there is no weU-mnrked nri^^in, as in the case in th«
I'eruTtan Current tluwiuf; to tlie N. W. and woKtwurd at the (ialupagos Islands.
On the contrary, as elsewhere remarked, the Mexican coast currents are com-
paratirely weak and undecided, so that there is »ome source from whence tho
westward tendency of the ocean is derived, beyond th« apparent efftjcta of the
trade wind and the action of the sun's heat.

Whctlier it be the effect of heat, or from the continued action of the frada
winds, ue fact seems to be tolerably well determined, and that is, in the cir-
culation of the oceanic waters around their respective busins, the greatest
velocity or force of the currents is at their outer limits; this force gradually
dimin ihes * ithin the area, and leaves a spare not acted on by the circulatory
movement, and which area, by analogy, wc should exjH'ct to find of a higher
temperature than might be calculated on if the polar streams should not add
their lowering iuHuence. Following this theory w« must expect to find them
in greater force nearer the Kquator, a fact apparently established. And iu the
central portion of the North Pacific there does not appear to be any regularity
in the set of the waters, and the limit before assigned moy even be too high,
as the Siandwieh Islands, in lat. 20", do not api>ear to be surrounded by any
permanent current.

The following reniarks by Captain Wilkes is confirmatory of this : — " After
passing the parallel of 10 N. we began to feel the etfects of the current that is
ascribed to the influence of the trade winds, and this continued without much
diminution of strength until we lost the trades in lat. 19" N. The drift of this
current was 271 milea is a direction S. 71- W."— Vol. v., p. 476.

Capt. Wilkes continuea : — " At the Sandwich Islands I am not dinpesed to
think, from any observations I bod an opportunity of making, thnt there are
any regular currents, or any set of the waters, except what is caused by tho
wiuds. There is, iu fact, rarely any difficulty iu beating to windward ; tho

,*■•

"*,;,

1196 Tin: ( ruuE.\Ts of thk north pacific ockan.

liiae of pas'inj; V)Ptween the islamU is about the same at nil •easonii of the year ;
and I found noue in beating up to my port in any reasonable time after fulling
to lorward of it. Their pooition is aseiniilated to St. Helena. The temperature
of the waters around these iNlaiids is about the same as that which prevnilH in
the ocean in tlie neiglibourhootl, a faot which I consider to be a pr<K)f that no
polar current ri'acli<'s them." The circum-ntancc of pine timbt>r being drifted
on to the l^ust end of Kuuai, as noticed on piige 11 OU, would almost prove,
beyond a doubt, that the currents were, at times, to the S.lv from the coa.st of
America, where the timber opparently came from ; but mother circunwtanco,
e(]ually conclusive in an o]>|>oftite direction, is the drift uf a Japanese* junk, as
n-lated presently

On the pajisage of H.M.S. ('hiilUn^fr from Honolulu to Tahiti, in September,
IRT.'i, very strong currents were experienced. The North Kquatorial Current
extended to 11 N. (the southern limit\ it* general direction being S. 60'' W.,
18 miles jK-r day, and its tcmjerature varying from "T"' to 1^3^. — Sttiff-Comm.
T. //. Tmird.

Our observations on the set of the waters to the West of this, between lat.
10" and I'O N . need be but lew That westerly currents are thobc prevalent
is undoubted ; but their northern limits, or velocity and regularity, do not
apj>ear to be well known.

KotJiebue. when he first saw the Marshall Islands in 1817, intended to have
examined them, but he was drifted through them by so strong a current to the
West, that he could not recover his position.

The currents at the Marianas arc olso subject to great rariations (sec page
1040). Capt. Oolownin met with a rapid current, bearing to the N.K., though
the wind blew from that (juarter, and a Spanish officer affirms that u similar
current generally flows at this part. It in prolMible that the westerly monsoon,
whirh is felt at the Mariana-s. from the middle of June to the middle of October,
according to Freycinet, may cause a reversion of the usual vMirrent.

Captain Marchund, in Aa Sulidr, when to the eastward of rinian, in long
MB" 14 to 148' ;54 , calculated that ho had been set 416 miles to the eastward
in 4K hours, this was on November '1 — 4, IT'Jl. — FUurieu's I'oya^r i,J Mar
chamU vol. ii , p. 4'20.

The .\meriean I!xi>editi<in found the current* strong to the north vvard and
westward, to tlie N.lv of liu- Mariana Islands. — \'oi. v., |). 2tiN.

The jiaraliel of oO N. is a favourite one with tht whalers, as Capt. Ueeehcy
states (vol. i., p. 236), and it ia hereabout that wo might look for that line of
demarcation which se{>arates the easterly and north-easterly drift of the ocean
waters, occa.sioned by the trade winds. According to (.'apt. Wilkes, great (juan-
tities a{ jimlhina, the soft mollusc which nerves as foo<l for the whale, were
found on the verge of the trade, in lat. '20' N.. long. \>'>s \V.,the trade haviii);
futlcd a degree to the southward. Again, when the Kx])cdilion wa» lu ubuut

TDE EQUATORIAL COUNTER-CURRKNT.

1197

(if thcyenr;

after fulling

tompprnluro

I prcvaiU in

roof that no

H-ing (InflcJ

liuost prove,

the coast of

ircumstanco,

iCM- junk, U9

n Scptombtr,

oriiil Current

ig S. »■>(» \V.,

iSlajT-Comm.

between lat.

ose prevalent

arily, do not

?niloil to hnve

current to the

ions (see pnpe

N.K.,thouj;h

that 11 "iinilar

orly monsoon.

lie of October,

nt.

nian, in Ion;;

) the eastward

■B'

iya(/f iif Mi"-

lortluvard and

1= ^

('apt. Ileccluy

or thai line of

ft of the ocean

L'H, ^rettt iju.in-

ic whale, were

le trade having'

J was in about

lat. 30* N., long. 180'^, vast quantities oi anatifa, another mollusc, were found
to lie in a W.S.W. an ' E.N.K. direction.— Vol. v., p. 109.

This arrnnf^ement of their locality would certainly appear to indicate some
001 bined intluenco of current. The temperature of the adjacent water is not
stated, but it is probable that tome variation would have been found to the
northward and southward of this line of zoophytes. We have not materials
wherewith to pursue this* subject further ; nor have we any distinct notion of
the set of the currents, if any, to the wp»(tward of the Marianas. But it is
certain that the Eijuutorial Current reappears in the form of a warm N.E.
current to the South of the Japanese Archipelago, the progress of which will
be presently traced.

THE EQUATORIAL COUNTER-CURRENT.

In our general remarks on the winf'-" on page 1168, it is said that in the
aerial systems of the I'acihc, a.s else «• here, there was n space between the two
great belts '.-ailed the N.E. and S.E. trade wind.s, in which the wind was varia-
ble and Ught, and in which calms and rains prevailed. This zone of variable
wind.<<, as they art known, is affected, in their breadth and latitude, by the
annual progress of the siiu in the ecliptic.

In the current systems we have a precisely analogous phenomenon — that of
a body of water moving with more or less regularity to the eastward, bounded
to the North and South by currents moving in the opposite direction. This
counter-current has been traced, with considerable certainty, nearly across the
entire breadth of the Tacitic : and the ensuing extracts will e.xjilain its character.
The first are the observations made by Captain Liilke, in his traverse in the
Siniavine.

After crossing the parallel of 30°, in long. 81^ we had for 48 hours, and
during liglrt winds and calms, a weak current between North and N.W. ; and
then fi>r a fartmuht, from lut. :28' S., and long. 116', that is for a space of 2,400
Italian miles, we scarcely felt any current at all. In lat. JG^ we had a S.E.
wind, which jwssed insensibly to the condition of a true trade wind, and wliich
even someiinu's b!ew freshly, but all this did not produce any current; during
two or three diti'erent days we had a weak current to the West, following the
wind, and for us many days returning against the wind. In the course of this
fortnight the ditlerence between the estimated longitude and that by the chro-
nometer did not exceed 20 , and there was none in latitude.

Hetween lat. 10" and 2"' S. there was for four days, during which the trado
wind, without blowing strongly, was constant and equal, a tolerably strong
westerly cuirent, the mean velocity of which, to W. by N., was 17 miles in 2i
hours.

In lat. 2" S. the trade wiuJ left us, and the current shifted also to the East,

U '•

■f

.■y

Il'.t8 THE CURRENTS OF THE NOUTH PACIFIC OCEAN.

tlien to N.E., and again to S.E., but more to this laMt quarter as far aa lat. 8"
or 10'' N., whcr* the N.E. trade stopped it. The mutin effect of this cuiicnt
wa« E. 6" S., 1-2 J niilea in 24 hours.

For the sixteen days lh".t the current just spoken of lasted, there were but
two which showed any exception, but to com|>ensato thoy were very striking;
this was IxJtwecn lat. 1'' and 4"' N., where the current* drifted us, in 48 hours,
75 miles directly Ui tho N.W.. in extremely light uirs between Kust and S.E.,
and sometimes during almost an entire calm.

This easterly current could here be attributed to light rariable winds coming
from the western quarter, but the sak.»c thing occurred in the neighbourhrKHl
of the ('aniline Islands, when the N.E. trade wind blew constantly, and sonie-
tiiiios with considerable strength. lu approaching the island of I'almn we found
a S.E. current, in lat. 8", and long. 163" E. To the West of this meridian the
easterly current did not extend toward the North beyond the parallel of 7', and
toward the South, in general, beyond that of 5^*. Between these parallels.
Olid as far a» long. 152 E , in the course of more than three weeks (in January),
we did not once have westerly currents, but .always to the East, ii.cliuing to the
t^outh in the eo-stera moiety of this space, and more \a> the North in the western
half. There wa« no exception to this order, except between the .S«niavine
Islantls, where the ncighbourho<Kl of coaatii and the action of th<! tides might
eiihily interrupt the regularity of the usual currents. Its mean effect, during
these three weeks, was 8 3 miles in the 2^ hours to the E. by N.

We had no sooner jtassetl to the North of tbc psr^Jlel of 61^, in long. 152' E ,
than we got into a strong current to the West, which did not leave us after-
wards. To the West of 152"" E. we only got once to the South of the |>arallel
of 7- ;^from the '.»th to the 12th of April, in long. 144^^ E.), and we aUo found
the current inclining to the Ea-tt. To the ^>outh of the {Mrallel of 5", on the
meridian of the island of I'ulan, the current bore cbiedy to S.W., but then,
once, in lat. 3'^, the current was to the K« it, 1 3 milea in 2 1 hours.

A rone of easterly currents, In'tween t.ic constant westerly currents, as well
in the wesient as in the eastern |>art of the Pacific, has also been noticed by
other navigators. Ckptains Hunter and AVilson found it more to the South
than we did, in the limits of the Carr'inc Archi[H'lago. ('apt. I)iijHTrev, be-
tween lat. 2" and 6~ N., and 7" tc 10 E. of I'alan, had currents to the S.lv
and N Iv, but on approaching this last island they were still more to the S.W.;
again, between the Rjuator and hj" N., and long. 148" E. and 1.J7' Iv, he again
found the eiutterly currents. Admiral Krusenstem placet the liuiiis of tins
East current, meridionally, at the E<{uator, and the parallel of 6' ; from our
cxi)€riencc these limits are 5' and 7", although in long. 163" E. we had already
met with them. Capt. Kreycinet found strong East currents between the lati-
tudes of 9" 20 and 4 N., and long Hl» and 144" W. Capt. Hecchey, in his
route from the Society Islands to the Sjindwich Islands, found betwwn the
Etjuator and 4' N., where he got into the N.E. trade wind, u N.N.E. current.

THK EQUATORIAL COrNTEIl-rURHENT.

1199

the menn activity of which wii» IS miles in 24 hours. Captain Wendt, in the
I'ruH.<inn merchant-ship I'rmceste Louise, found in three different years, be-
iween the parallels of Cr .'30 N. nn<' lO^^ 30' N., and long. 125'" and l.'Jr W..
currents from the N.E. quarter, of a velocity of from 17 to 25 miles. From all
appearances, these easterly currents have some connection with each otlier ;
but we do not yet posses-s a sufficiently large number of facta from which to
de«l.ice a general view of the subject.

To the North of this eastern current, within the limits of the easterly winds,
we also found a constant current to the West, inclining in some ports towards
the North, in others to the South. Between the parallels of 7^ and 9", where
we passed at different times more than a month, the current* constantly bore
away between W.S.W. and W. by S. In the months of February and March,
Wtween long. lo2" and 14r/, their mean force was, in 11 days, of 15 miles in
24 hours, to S. 83^ W. ; between hmg. 147° and 144", in the same interval of
time, of 8 miles to S. 71" W. In November and December, between long. 156"
and 140^ in 16 days, of 144 miles in 24 hours, to S. 79'' W. Farther on,
towards the West, in our route to the (^hina Sea, we experienced nearly the
same currents, their direction and lorce being in general 16 miles in 24 hours,
to S. 70^ W.

To the North of lat. 9" the currents inclined more to the West of North. In
the eastern half of the Pacific (between long. 130^ and 146°, from lat. 10° to
30") we found their general direction to be N. 86^^ W., and their force 117
miles in 24 hours. In the western half, on our route to the island of Guahan,
their general direction, in the interval of 4 days, was found to be N. 75° W.,
22 miles in 24 hours ; and on our return from the Caroline Archipelago, under
the same apparent circumstances, and in the same interval, S. 49"^ W., 22 miles
in 24 hours. In leaving the Carolines in April, as far as lat. 22°, where the
trade winds left us (from long. 143'' to 139^ E.), we had constant westerly
e\irrents, the general action of which, in 10 days, was N. 52~' W., 183 miles in
24 hours ; and in returning from the North to this archipelago in November,
we had these N.W. currents for the greater part of the time, up to the period
of our meeting with the trade winds, in lat. 26° (long. 199" to 204); and we
found their menn rate, in 9 days, to be 147 miles in 24 hours, to N. 69° W.
On the meridian of the island of Ualan, on the contrary, as far as the parallel
of 28', also in November, the general direction of the current was S. 43° W.,
18 miles in 24 hours.

We did not observe that the direction or strength of the trade winds deter-
mined the direction of the current to the North or South of West. These
different inclinations occurred with winds perfectly the same ; we must, there-
fore, rather seek the reason in some local circumstances if they should not pro-
ceed from some general and permanent cause, and are not an accidental pheno-
menon, changing without order.

A correspondent of the "Nautical Magazine" (January, 1843,) also speaks

''>

l:i

i\i

1200 TIIK n'RUKNTS OF THE NORTH PAriFIC OCEAN.

«if this rtvcrsf current : — In July. 1833, on the Kjuator, in lonfj. 175* R., n
rurrnii i if about 2 or 3 knots nn hour ran to the cHHtwanl for 14 or \!i days.
Although the wind wa» then frcnh from the cniitwnnl ; and it was thought that
such changes have pcnerully m-curnHl once a ycr.r, prolmhly induced by a strong
S.W. or wentrrly montioon in North latitude, reaching at thiNtiine near the line.
They an* fitful ehangcf*. aud not to bo depended on. nor cau their extent 1 1 llie
eastward be stated.

Capt. Wilkes says ; — " On our route to the northward we crossed ft Btre.un
setting to the westward, which extends as far westward as the Kingsniill group
between lat. '2 S. and .3^ N.. after which we encountered another, setting with
fMjunl ve'' ^ity to the Ka.st, between lat. A'-' and 9^ N. This last tropical counter-
current was traced by us between the same parallels nearly across the I'acitie,
from the long of 1 70' K. to the long, of 13H' W. We had no opportunity of
ascertaining ourselves whether it exists to tlie westward of theMulgrave Islands.
But l'>r»')urgh, and several other authorities, mention the prevalence of an
easterly c»irri nt as far to the West as tlic Sea of Celebes, and particularly in
lat. i N.'- -Vol. v.. p. IT»').

At the (iilbcrt Archipelago, <luring violent gales from S.W., which prevail
from October to April, trunks of large trees are thrown uj)on the West sides
of the i.slands, together with large lumps of resiu, similar to that found in the
soil of New Zealand.

During the jmssngc of the I'.S. ship Sitrrngnntfll, August, 187'J, from the
Ciilliert to the Mai>hall Islands, the wind wilx generally IvN.Iv, with pleasant
Mcather ; between the parallels of 3 and 5' N., the current ran North, IH miles
in 24 hours ; b<tween 5" and G 30 N., the current was N. 54 Iv, 17 miles;
from 6" 30' \o 1~ , N. 24 W., fi miles; the Kquatorial Counter-current being
iistinctU markoil.

Hetween liyron Island and Apainng a westerly current of 25 to 50 miles per
day was experienced.

On the jMi-ssagc between the Marshall and (iill)ert Islands an ea.sterly current
of about 1 mile an hour wa« exj>erienced until between Matthew Island ami
Apiang, where a strong westerly current of nearly 3 milea an hour was sud-
<l< Illy found. A cirrent running 2 miles an hour to the westward was generally
found near the <iilbert Islands. — (Vi;j/. SimpMon, II. M.S. lilanvhe, 1«72.

In Jutie, the current, which was westerly in the southern part of the (Jilbert
group, In-gan to set to the northward and eastward. North of Apamama. Oil'
the North jxiint of Maraki the current was observed to be running to the east-
ward at Uie rate of thrcc-(iuarters of a mile un hour. Among the Marshall
Islands easterly eurrenU* of less than 1 mile an hour «eri' rxperieiiced. Kainy
wcother, light variable wuids witli tasting m the^n, and, us a rule, moderate
easterly currents were exjK-rienced between tlie Mursliull and Caroline Islr.-iiiH
—II. M.S. h.ypi'yU, 1M83.

THE EQUATORIAL COlNTKU-CruUKNT.

1201

Furthor particulars of the currents in the neighbourhood of these groujw of
ishinds will be found in Chapter XII.

Captain liristow found the current strong from \Vcst to East at the Purdy
loletB, in February and March, 1817.

On the pn»wige of 11. M.S. Chullfnger from the Admiralty Islands to Japan,
in March, 187.'>. the currentK in the immediate neighbourhood of the Admiralty
group, and as far North as the oth parallel of Nortli latitude, were very strong,
running to the westward at rates varying from 14 to 37 miles per day. He-
tween the 6th and UUh parallels little or no current was experienced, but from
thence lo the I'.Hli parallil, where the trade wind was lost, an average set of
17 miles per day was experienced, the direction varying from N.VV. to W.S.W.
From the I*.)ih parallel the curreut« were variable until the Japan Stream was
entered.*

On her pns.sage from Honolulu to Tahiti, in September, 1H75, from 11" N.
to 6'^ N., the Counter Kfjuatorial Current was found running to the eastward
Bt an avernge rate of 30 miles per day, but its force in 7^ N. was 50 miles j)er
day, and its temperature varied from NO to 82"'.

From 5° N. to 5" S. the South Kquatoriai Current was running to the west-
ward at an avcrnge rate of 13 miles per day, but in l^N. its spied was no less
than 70 miles. ItJ* temperature varied from 77" to 79\ being 77^ at its axis
of greatest rapidity. This extraordinary rate was also experienced in the French
corvette L' F.unjdice, in August, 1867, in 'A^ 50' N. We also found this current
Betting to the westward, just North of the Admiralty Islands, in March, ls7.j,
with an average rate of 30 miles per day, but its temperature then was £i-om
83 to HI . From 5 S. to Tahiti the currents were to the southward, about 12
miles per Ans.—Stujf'-Commdiidfr T II. Tizard.

The following reuiarks on the countcr-currcut are by Admiral Krusen-
Btern ; —

*' This current, bearing from West to Ea.st, forms to tlie North of the Equator
a zone which extemls to the t>th degree of latitude, and the velocity of which
is frequently 20 leagues in the 24 hours. Ships returning from China during
the season of theS.W. nionscxm, and proceeding by the Pacific Ocean towards
the Strait of Ganem i Dnmpier ^itrait), do not generally go farther towards
the Fast than the I'elew I''^.-., out if they do not pay great attention to this
current, they will usually be carried several degrees towards the East. The
best means of avoiding ihi.s stream of current is to attempt to cross it as quickly
as possible from >. orth to South, because South of the Ecjuator the S.E. trade
is met with, accompanied by a current bearing to the West, the rate of which,
iptir the coast of New (iuinea, is from 15 to 40 miles in the 24 hours, in a
West and W.N.W. directions."

• H..port of the Scientiflc Uosiiltsuf the Exploring Voj'Mge of 11. M.S. Chal.'cnifn; 1873—
187fi, Nttrriitivc, vol. i.

Sort/t J'uct/ic. 7 o

i Hi

■4 ,

iio-2 Tin: ( riturxTs ok tiik nohth PAriFic ockan.

*».

Sir Kihvnrtl lU-lohrr iiiforn il tlic oxistoncp of this cnntorly current on np-
pr«>nchin^ ('lip|U'rton Island, wliicli is ia lul. lO*" 17' N., lon^. lOD" 1.1 \V.
He pays : — " No living trcfs wore Ji^'n, but tin- wliolc island was co>imim1 witli
gannot. boobies, frigate |H'licnn», nri several kindit of tern, wliitli liud alno l>een
noticed in f;rcat numbers (hiring llie pievioim week, at least .'idO miles to the
enslwanl From this an easterly current may be inferred, as llacc birJa gene-
rally keep in its slreani or tail course."

Vuncouver found n Htrong current ('JJ knot*) setting to the eofctward and
N.K. when tiirCoeos Islaiul, lu mentioned hereafter.

'I'lieso obs<Tvation« will demonstrate thnt iMtween lat. 4' find 10"" N., which
limits may be subject to some thietualion. ther« is ii current running to tlie
tattuaril, or against the usual course of the inter-trojiicul winds and the diift
of the ocean on nlher side of it, ami extending fronj the western extremity of
the I'acific as far as long, ll.')" W., and perhaps beyond this, if the I'cruvian
cold current sh(>\dd not extend Ixyond that latitude in this meridian.

" A mure simple e\|)l,n)ation of this counter-current may be found in the
f«ct that the K(pKitorial Current*, as tlu-y flow on each side of liie belt of calms.
remove the wnt*'r from the eastern and aceumidnte it nt the western side oftiie
basin, and that the counter-current tends tu rvstuix* the ecpuhbriuiu tli jf cuu-
stnnlK distiirlieil."*

In tlie Nantieal Magar.ine, Ai)ril, 18S0. pp. 27(> - '-'Rfi, is a letter from C.ipt.
J. MeKirdy. of the SS. I'rruria, <let.»iling Ids experiences in several voyages
between licmolulu and Callao, in the ye.ir ls7H. In having Ilo)U)lulu for the
eastwanl he nn't with strong nortlurly and westerly curients, where he expected
to have found the l",i|uatorial Counter-ctirrent ; by taking advantage of these,
on his return voyaj.'e. In- made svveral good runs of ;j | I to ;i.i'J miles per day.
He concludes that the southerly current along the West coast of North .\merieu,
when met by the IVruvian Current, in forced to the westward, and, mectmi;
the counter-eurrenl, turns away to the northward at a point varying with the
btretigth of the latter, and tlien ln'.irs otfto the westward a^jain. Its approximate
traek, us ni>en by ( uptiiin MeKinly. is i-howa on tl»e chart idustratuig the
currents, at the conimeneement of tins woik.

(apt MeKinly stittes the colour of this current in of n deep blue colour, it'*
temperature iK-ing about 7M% and that of the surrounding water of the Norlli
I'aeitie, which is of u iK-autiful bright blue colour, 2" higher ; the oold Peruvian
Current is tif a ilark liirty grci-n <oloMr. He thinks itii breadth, when it runs
swiftly. i» 80 or UiU miles, iiiul great care ia necessary, if Uiking advantage of
It, not to run out of it. The theriuoiuetvr will gi«e the Ural wuruing of gilliii^
into or out of it.

• " Th:das8a ; An Kssay on the !>■ pfli, Tuinp<rsture, and Currtnl* of ttiu OL'ti«u," 1877 ;
bv J J. WiU, ku the MKUUiii. tUU wl 11. M.S. ('Au</<>.y<r.

( uoa )

cotstward aiul

TllK KUUO SIWO. OK JAPANKSK CrKRKNT.

Ah lK;f<)ie Htnlcd, tlio movcmentH of tin- waters, nn well ;i« of tin; utiiioHphfre,
•Pfm to be oil a mure limited scale, and less decidedly marked, in the northeru
I'aciHo than they are in the southern hemisphere. This is probably owing to
it« comparatively eacloRed character. From this cause it deserves, in some
decree, the title of Pacific, and its narij^ation is not attended with any difliculty,
nn any ordinary ship may, with pcrttcvuruucc, work to windward in its central
portion.

Hut towards its western side tljc movement of the ocean becomes manifest,
and we find a great analogy in this respect to that of the North Atlantic, and,
accordingly, a very distinctly characterized current in the Pacitiu follows a
parallel course to that of the (iulf Strci'in, well known in the Atlantic.

From the difiV-renl configuration of the land, however, the absence of any
western l»arrier, such a» the .Mexican coa.st presents to the western jirogress of
the Atlantic waters, and the coutrnetioti of its channel by the lluhama Islands,
this I'acitic Gulf Strctiu hiw* not such a distinct character as is seen in the (iulf
of Florida. Still this warm ocean river may be traced in its course by obser-
vation uud analogy around the ii'jrtl.ern side of tiic .N'orlli raciiic.

'Ihis current, in the earlier part of its course, was noticed by several navi-
gators, especially Captains Kiiiy;, Ivruscuslcrn, and iJrouglitou, whose ii-iuarks
will be given presently.

The tirst point whi<h may be noticed in it is tkc authority <d' tlie Japanoso
charts. On all of iheiii, as shown by Vuu Siebolil and Kruscnstern, between
Fatsizio and the Mokiera Islands, that is, olf tlie S.lv part of Nipon, South of
\ cdo, a current to the eastward is marked, ealleil the h'ltro Siuii Slnam, or,
as Krusenstern calls it, Konroseijawd, or the Current of the BUnk (iulf. The
latter adds this remark; — " I'his current is 20 nialsi ^rtvc-ninths of a J.ipuneso
»i, that it., about three-quarters i.f a mile), or \h miles broad. For 10 nmtsi it
lias a very rapid cou.'-se. In winter and spring it is very dillicult to navigate,
but in summer and uutuiuu vessels can pass it."

('apt. (iore, after the deaths of ("apUiiiis Cook and riorke, returned from the
northward in the liesolution, making the coast of Japan in the beginning of
November, 1779. Capt. King states that, in tins passage, when they approached
the S.F.. part of Japan, they were drifted by a .rong current from the S.W.,
and that when they reached the latitudi' of ;;6" 4^ , in eight hours, instead of
making a course of 'J leagues to the S.VV'., they had been carried 8 leagues
from the po.siUon they hail left in a diametrically opposite direction, giving a
velocity and direction to the currwnt of at least four miles an hour to the
N.E. by N, the longitude being 111'' 16. Capt. King makes the follow

iiu

tLt Utv«u,' 1877;

comments on this : — As the strong currents which set along the eastern coast
of Japan may be of dangerous tousenuencc to tlie navigator who is uot awaro

i'}*'

■s t

1204 THE CTKUENTS OF TIIK NORTH rACiKIC (KM'.AN.

of thoir extrnonliimrv rftpiditT, I shall take loaroof thin Uland with a •ummnry
account of thuir force and diroction, a» obwrved from the I at to the Mth of
Noveinbfr. Cln the Ixt, wlnn we wt-rt- about IK loji^ucs to the eiislward of
White I'oint (^luf. 35 24 ). the current net NK. by N., at the mte of 3 mile* an
hour ; on the 2nd, lut we approached the nhore, we found it coutinuin^ in the
snrnc direction, but incmu«ed in itx rapi<Hty to 5 mile** an hour ; as we Icfl the
shore it again became more moderate, and inclined to the cnstwartl ; on the
3rd, nt the distance of fiO leagues, it set tn the IvN.E., 3 miles on hour; on tlia
1th anil .5th, it turned to the .^outhwaul, nnd at 120 lengues from the liind itH
direction was S K., and its rate not more than 1| mile au hour ; on the r)th and
7th it apnin sliifted round to the S.K., its force (fradtially diminishing, till the
Sth, when we coulii no longer perceiTc any at all. This calculation would
make it about '2M miles bruid olf thin part of the Japanese const.

Tlie next authority we nhall fjuote for it is Admiral Kruwiistern, wlio passij
to the eastward of the islands, Septomlwr, 1804. Fr«m the introductory
portion of his great work we ext-act the following : —

The currents constantly run to the NK. From the Strait of Sangnr (Tsiignr),
a* fur as the p.irallel of 3(H', we had daily a curaent, which carried us N.K. J K.
at the rate of lU miles in the 24 hours. From the latitude of ;tO' to 3')^-',
being about 70 leagues from land, it bore townnls the P'.N.FI., with a velocity
of '2 miles an hour. From the parallel of 35J" to 34J° the current bore to
N.E. J N., li mile an hour ; we were then fiO leagues from laml. Traversing
the islands l)ii>g to the St)uth of the (Julf of Yedo, we felt a current bearing
to S.W., with a velocity of nearly a mile an hour ; but after having passed
these islands some de-^rvcs to the Wc^t, wii again met with the former current
l)earing to the NK.

When we discovered the coast of Japan upon the parallel of 31", and par-
ticularly the southern part of the Isle Sikokf, the current carried us to the
N.K., 3J miles an hour, f'apt. Broughton rnnge<l near the eastern coast of
Japan during the months of November and July We see by hi« journal lli;U
he felt a current which carried him to the N K., at 2 miles an hour, with this
difference, nev»'rtheles.s, that during the month of Norenjlwr the current bore
more toward the North, nnd in July more to the Kast, but always betweca
these two directions. We can conclude from the foregoing, that the currents
ujwn the eastern coast of Japan are subjected to filed laws, at least duriu)^ the
months of July, Septeml)er, and October, and that their strength and force
depend on the distance where they are met with from the coast.

It would be easy to multiply eviiience of its character, but we take the <ic-
desenption given of it in ('timmf)dorc I'crrj's account of hi-* niis.siou to Japan,
by Cnpt. Hilas Dent, us derived from the investiijutions by the U.S. officers i»
18.'i4 'pp. fiO 1—603).

It {■* an immense oceanic current on the East coast of Asia, which bear« a
striking analogy, in every t>-»ontial jxjint, to the (Julf . Stream of the Atlantic.

THK KUR(^ SIWO, OR JAPANESE CTURENT.

1205

U.S. officern in

Tlio ri'8ult» of thi'Hr obncrvntioDS •how quite conclusively that the strenm
baM its origin in iht gxxnt Kcjuatoriul Current of the Pacific, from which it is
Bopaiated by the South end of Kormotin, about the latitude of 22^ N., long.
122 E., whence it is dcHccted to the northward along the East cuust of For-
mosa, until reaching the parallel of G0° N., when it boars olF to the northward
niid eastward, watthing the whole S.K. coast of Japan us far as the Straita of
Sangar (Tsugar).

Near its origin the stream is contracted, and is usually C(jnfined between the
ibluiuls of Formosa and Mnjico-sima, with a width of 100 miles, but to the
northward of the latter it raj)idly ex]>andH on it8 southern limit, and reaches
the Lew-Chew and lionin groups, attaining a width to the northward of tho
latter of ;<00 miles.

'1 he iiorth-wcstt-rn edge of the stream is strongly marked by a sudden thermal
change in the water, of from lO'' to 20^", but the southern and eastern limit ia
losi distinctly defined, there being a gradual thenuul approximation of tha air
and water.

Along the borders of the stream where it clinfos against the counter-currents
aud torpid waters of the ocean, as also in its inidat, where wVirV and eddies arc
produced by islands and thw inequalities in its bed, ntrong tide-rips are en-
countered, often resembling heavy breakers on reefs or shoals. Its average
velocity, between Uie South end of Formosa and tuc Straits of Sangor, was
found to be from 36 tu iO miles per 24 hours. Yet, upon one occasion, off tho
Uulf uf Ycdo, its maximum strength is recorded as high as 80 miles per day.

To the northward of the parallel of 40' N., in long. 143 E., tliere is a cold
counter-current intervening between it and the South coast of Yesso, as shown
by a sudden thermal change in the water, of from 16 to 20°, which, it is be-
lieved, sets to the westward, through the Straits of Snngar, but the limited
stay of the squadron in that vicinity, and the harassing prevalence of fogs,
j»reveiited such observations being made as to satisfactorily determine whether
or not there was a predominant current tlowing in either direction, or whether
it was merely the ebb and flow of the tides through the straits. To the west-
ward, however, of a line connecting the North end of Formosa and the south-
western extremity of Japan, a cold counter-current was again found, which sets
to the southward through the Formosa Channel into the China Sea, and it does
not, therefore, seem unrea.'^onable to believe that a hyperborean current will be
found in the Japan Sea, setting to the southward between the Japanese Islands
and the main coast of Asia, fed by that on the South coast of Yesso, and sup-
plying that one setting through the Formo>a Channel.

The average maximum temperature of the Kuro-Siwo is 86°, and the difier-
cnce between its temperature and that of the ocean due to tho latitude is about
12°. There was no counter-current intervening between tho Kuro-Siwo and the
coast of Japan, to the southward of the Straits of S.mgar, and nothing was found
to manifest the existence of such a current us undenunniny that stream, and

if"

U ! 1

|v:

[;

■J

/! i

■' vV

'I ,■-

i !

120r, TIIK ( TKUKNTS OF THE NUKTIl rACIl-IC OCK.VN.

Mlthou^h the obM*rvatioii« indicate ntraU of cool watrr lying in tho lonpitudin^il
iliroction of the Kuro-Sjwo, yd ihcir tcmitcruturu Tnricd but a few dc^rtcn
from the main b(Mly uf the Htiium, and was almo8t invariably iiu|HTt()r tara-
tion of the cold couutcr-currvnt fr«)m tho Kuro-Siwo, allowing tho lattvr to
hug close along the •outh-eoatern Mhorot of the ialanda, have a modifying in-
lUience u[H>n the climate uf the empire, making H milder and moro equable
than in corroNiMinding latitudes on the t^t coast of tho United States. Ilieru
is a floating soa-weod found in tho Kuro-Siwo, similar in appvarauc« to the
/Ww4 natant of the (Julf Stream.

In the pumage of the Mi**i*i%pfn from Sireoda t« tho Sandwich Islands tho
thermometer ithnwed a coid aqueous s|>ace ttetwcen the meridians of 166'' K.
and \l(f W. and thu parallels of 30' and 36^ N., which b(>ars « general cor-
rei'j)ondence in tho Pacific to the ]>o<tition of the SargaitMo Seo in the AtlaiUic.

The stream bving iiHerfertwl with nnd clurWed in its northern course by tho
coast of Jnpaii i» not only driven off and forced to the eastward with great
s|MV(l, but iH very «Tralic in its movonunls. I hav heard of vessels Wing
carried dead In wiinlwaril against a heavy gale at a wonderful S[)eed ; other
shi]>s, thinking llietnsclves close olF the coast, su ' linly finding tliey were far
away to tho South, Wing carrie<l hither and thither ainung^tt the islands and
rocks, llie Japanese have erected excellent lig)itl>ouses along their coasts,
and, of course, the navigation of thes? formerly dangerous seas has now l)e-
eome >iinplc enough, and the current so much dnadcd before is maile of the
greatobl service in running along the const. — Vuftt. 11. C. Ht. John, 11. M.S.
Sylvia.

The recent irtvestigntions of the Tu^enrora nnd ChalUniffr proTC that this
current follow* the itxis of the J.oito.fuilmm., dcprensiun exiNting eastward of
Japan, ami, on its northern margin, binds of the cold .Vritie wati-T havi; Ixeii
found in it. The warm water may be followed to » depth t)f .')00 fullioiud, but
nt all depths it remains about 4" or 6'' of tetu]K-rature under that of the <uilf
Stream in the same latitude and depth. As it runs northward it decreases m
depth, sj>evd, and li-mperature, but notably iiicnaMs in linadth.

This current is, however, much ludueiiced, lujih in diieetiou and velocity,
bv local causes. It is sonietiineb* entirely cheeked for a day by a N.K. wind;
when it may be again ex|K-eted to resume its former course, and |K)8sibly run
with greater rapidity than usual for one or two days. On one uceuiiion, oil' the
(iiilf of Vedo, iij> niaxinium strength is recorded us high a* 7 '2, 7 I, uiul 8i) miles
respectively, on tliree successive days.f liut at other times some observations

* Uut not Hlwa)K: II .M.S. CmUur, in A 'gu^t, \bC\. hsvit ^ )>.) n drifluj 63 toilus in 'H
b''^ut*, ill ihi) IJico of • struiiK K.N'.E. jfsle, f)etwft)n 136* nnd 137* E.

t 'Hic curn-nt *iv nt to atiiim itti (,'riitt«iit Tfliwity )«'lwe<in Vnn Di"'m<>n Strsit anJ tho
Liall ul Vtfvio, bul Wd* ttkuivluU uu ubu u<.<..uiou ita uul> Jl tu J7 Uiil<.« jD th<< c .9Ut.<.«,iMUS

TiTi- KViin siwo. on .t.\pani;m: cninrNT.

isoi

;itiiilin;il

>r U) titut
*c|)ara-

lattvr to

fying in-
vquablo
Hutu

;« tu the

andi the
166" Iv
nerml cor-

rVtlaiUic.
•!H' by iho

ilh ^rt-at
icU b4.>iiif;
cil ; other

wero far
laiulh aiul
i:ir coofltH,
I now Im,'-
iili) of the
fi, 11 M.S.

' that this
mtwanl of
hiivi! Iwt'ii
LliiiiUH, liul
r ihp tiulf
■crcu»cs lit

J velocity,
\.K. wiiid;
iHNihly nut
ion, otf ilie
id 8(1 miles
jitc'rvutiDiiti

uiluo iti 21

[rait and thn
-V iiU(.c«,iiatv«

hnro shown r«'»iiltH {frrntly ftt v«riiinoo with the ^encriilly rcroivi'd acrounlH of
it. lln avt-nim- vt-locity l)«twefn the South eml of Furtuusa and i'bugar btruit
han hcfii found to Ih> from 35 to 40 milen in 21 Itnum.

A «tronn Routh-wfstoi ly current has been experienced eouthwnrd of the Lu-
clm and Meiaco Niiiiii Iitlandn, where the Kuro Siwo would be i.xiiectcd to be
met with. It was noticed about the end of September, 1870, or nt the change
of the monsoons from S.\V. to N.E. Capt<iin (>. Scott, of the liritish ship
Lucile, writes to uh an follow.s : — " I hare to bring to your notice a strong
•outh-westerly current 30 ntiles South of Loo-Choo Islands and Meiaco sima
group, setting with a velocity of 18 miles per day, and appearing to take the
swoeji of those islands at that distance, viz., 30 miles. I experienced it for
five tlays in trying to got to the eastward, and finally had to p\jt back and go
North through the passage between Kumi and Ku Kien San, where I found the
Japanese Current si tliiig N.K., 40 or SO miles a day."

StatrCommaiider T. 11. lizard, 11. M.S. C/utMenf/er, makes the following re-
marks ou the Kuro Siwo:* — Our observations sliow that when we apj)r<)ached
Japan from the southward, in April, 1875, we jmssed through a belt of water
mnning to the north-eastward at the rate of 3 miles an hour, between lat.
S'l- 30 and 33 30 N., in long. 138' 15' E. On the southern edge of this belt
the stieatu had a more nortlierly, and on its northern edge o more easterly
tendency than .N.K. Wlien to the northward of this rapidly-moving belt of
water, a set of 1 mile an hour to the eastward was experienced. Wheu in the
Btream the temperature varied from 63'' to G8-, changing suddenly, giving al-
U-rnate bands of cold and warm water without our being able to detect any
nlteiMtion in its rapidity.

In May we had a moderate .sot to the eastward close to the South coast of
Nipon Island. In June we liad no current at 30 to 40 miles from that coast,
but south-eastward of Nipon found a stream of 72. 5 mean temperature run-
ning 2 miles an hour to the northward. This rapid stream of alternate belts
of warm and cold water probably originates in the following manner : —

I)uring the N.E. monsoon a cold surface-current runs southward from the
Japan and Yellow Seas. It appears, therefore, highly probable that instead of
h)8ing itself, as is supposed, it meets tlie warm Ecjuatorial Current, when the
two divert to the eastward, and run together side by side without intermingling
their waters. When the N.E. monsoon ceases this cold current also ceases,
which causes the slackness of the Kuro Siwo, South of Nipon Island, in June,
as it is then only due to the E(iuatorial Current. Later on, in July and August,

dnys. It is somotiines dcrtoctod to the South by the chain of islands South of Iho Gulf, or
ieforr rcachitin thuin. C'lmn^os in tho siroam aro probably dopendont on the seasonH.

• Full particulars of the mt'tooroligical iiud other observntions made on board H M S.
Challfigrr will bo found in thf " Kejwrts on Ocejin Sounding* and 'iVrnpirntutos," 7 Nos ,
folio, publislicd I'V the Admiralty ; alsi> in tht- Niurativi' of ihc voyagu.

..!:■

•,'

120R THE n'HREXTS OF THE NORTH rAriFIC OCEAN.

when it in au^MUPiitiMl by the ■iirfnrr-<liift fntm the China Sen in the S.W
m«n"non, it runs Attain with p(rpat rnpitlity, and ii wholly n wiirm eurriMit.
1 h^■^«• |M'<'ulmr t'ffi ( •« nre prohnhly not *x|H»ru'nciHl to the UMtward of HO" K. ;
ihrrc, apparently, th»* atrrani i<i niwuyn n wunn one.

On June !«') tho trinperature in Ycdo liny wa» rtM ; off No lima Hcnd it roue
to «>»% and grndunlly to 73* K Eastward of Japan, in l«t. S& 20 N., lonff.
163 .Itf' K., tho Hurfare tcmiMratiirc dixreawd to r»4'-8, or 6" below the water
on either tide, anti the watir to the drpth of t, ()()() f4th(>n» waa aimilarly
afffotnl. Thin rrmarknblr drcrcniie of trtnporntiiro in probably owiuK *" *
•outhrrly current from the Sea of OkhoUtk or the weitern jMirt of Mehring St>a,
M Commander Holknap, IT.R. ship Tutenrorn, found a oold belt of wnt«>r oppo*
•ite the entmnee of tlipoo nrat, and thin mu*t extend U) the 36th parallel, where
it nearly eeaHoa, aw the cold In-lt wan very narrow, only extending oTvr a dia-
tiinee of 'ill mile", Kn^t nt>d NN'ent.

After paMmtf the North extremity of Formnan, on the way from Honf; Kony
to Yokohama, the Kuro Siwo io toon entore<I. A Rtriking reatlcM movement
of tlie water, and an appreciable increoito of tem]>erature, 7" to IH*^, make the
tranaition obviouH. I'ltder a cloudy nky itit colour is gray, in •unshinu deep
blue. According to obnerTationii on Ixtard the P. and O. steamer Avoca, in
lat« Kummer the water here reachen SO , only b" below the higheat lomperuture
of the (iulf Stream. — Profr$ior J. J. Rein.

The counter-itream to the Kuro Siwo flowa from the North ; part reachea
the Sea of Japan, and meetA the Kuro Siwo •^mewhere about the Korean
Strait*. In thut lu-i^hboiirhoml I hare wen the meeting of thenc two utream"*,
whith i« nxwt ren 'rkable, tlie one on dark and deeply blue, the other of a pale
green colour. The) '^ not mix. but rub against each ot'^er. 8o decided ii
thi!t that on taking thfa v .'^ture, almoat on either side of the ship, the
dilTcrcnce wan H . — Cu/>/. //. t.. ""*. John.

Ihe Kuro Siwo setii thrnuich Van T>iemen Stroit at from 1 to 6 knotaan hour,
the maximum velocity occurring while tlie ebb atrt^om is running (by the
shore / at spring tide* ; the current decruasing in strength oa the coast uf
KiuMU is approache<l.*

Thus far the definition of the Japant-^i Current rests on pooitive evidence of
unexceptionable chnractrr. a*, far v rr^ards the season"* in which thev were
made. Hut its t'trccla may U' tr::'.''i to the northward and westward.

It reaches the ciMUt of Kamchatka. The mildneas of the climate about
Awatska Hay is attributed to the warm (Ja|>aneai>) current coming from tin-

* W<< cMinut here ent«r into the •cienlitic Ji'>cuMioni of namerons authoritiiM on tKii
important cum-nt. In l«7*, l'rofoa«>r T .\ntis<'ll rwwl a v«lu/iblp I'upor, "On thu Tkiii-
prmiurwi of the l*a< itir '»c<«ii," >.«-f<»r«i tho l'hil<iiin(ihic«l Suri.ty of WMhinirtnn, V.!*..
and in th« I'.S. Couit Kurv<-y llt-p-irt, IHHo, wilt he found « diwriplion of thu Kuro Siwi,
\<\ Mr. W. H. I)sll, ID ounnt-cti'-n with the Currvnt* uf Urhriiig S«a, nuJ founded on I'ru-
fwMui AiitiM^l't uWivstiun*.

lie S W
currtMit.
N(»^K. ;

\A it ro«#

N.. lonK.

the wiittT

•irnilnrly

it)^ to K

rin^ St»t,

it«T oppo-

(1, whrre

|>T«r a di>-

onjj Knnu
inovciiifiit

mnko tlie
ihine deep

Avoca, in
imporalure

irt reophe*
he Kotfun
^o KtreaniR,
er of A pftle
» docidrd is
e ship, tho

ots an hour,
ing (by th*"
ho coast uf

cvidcncf of
I ihcy wi'ir
»r<l.

imiitf about
ng from the

?riti«« on tfiii
On tha IViii-
inirton, U.S. :
Kuro Hiw I,
iiiidcd on I'ro.

Tin-: Kl'llO SIWU, OR JAl'ANE.SK CUUUKNT.

1 200

•oufh-wontwnrd, nnd thui nmcliorating tho aevcrity of ilic winter. The com*
pnrntive freiMlom from ice i)f ihi bavB and inl' i*. h nUo another evidence of ita
intlueuce. The univiT»n! foj;* which prevail, too, in the vicinity of the ishmdn
in tlip wcHtcrn portion of tho Sc* o( bearing, ariiiin;^, inoBt probably, from tl»u
difference of temperature between th* »«r nnd water, also indicate tlie same
fu't, and are iinalnj^diis to the name phenomenon on the banks of Newfoun'l-
land, nri-fiiiK from ilie (iulf J^tream.

'I lie destruction of a Japancnc junk occurred near the South end of tlie Kam-
rhntkii IVniu'^uIa in July. 1 !'2'.*. It was proceedin;; to Onsakn, in tho South of
Japan, and was drifted away by a violent Ntorm to the N.Iv, and at lust reached
tho place alluded to. 'I'liis is also corroborative.

Aiiotlier similar cireuinstance is that of a Japanese junk which had drifted
from its destination, and anchored, in December, liS.'52, at Oahu, Sandwich
Islands. Although the currents in the vicinity of this group do not seem to bo
very well defmed in their character, this circumstance must also be considered
as an evidence of the easterly drift from Japan.

iJut we mav look still further tn the Mast. A Japanese junk was wrecked
near Cape Flattery, iii Oregon, iu 1SJ;5. This last is detailed by \Vasliiiigt(m
Irvin", in his " ;* -itoria." These singular orftineiices ;it once attest the ten-
dency of tho currents, an<l open n wide field fur discussion on the migration of
the inhabitantu of eastern .\sia and the peopling of the western world.

As an intermediate point where wc may look for indirect evidence of tho
]u-ngicss of this stream, the Soull' extremity of Kodiak Island may be adduced.
Here the riniains of Japanese wrecks, recognised by the camphor-wood used
in them, ami other Japanese articles arc found. Thus it appears to trend to
l!ir astwnrd towards the coast of N.W. America, nnd then assume a more
Rt)v lerlv diieclion. This theory is confirmed by the ensuing remarks of
Commander Wilkes, of the I'Mited States' I'lxjiloring Expedition : — Our passage
from the Hawaiian group to the N.W. coast gave interesting results in relation
to the current-i. 'I'liey were irregular until wc reached the latitude of 27"' N.,
after which we were strongly atfeeted by n S.K. current, whose influcnee con-
tinued until wc reached the coast of Oregon. At this time it ran at the rate
of .')0 miles in '21 hours ; but when the rturocJ: traversed this same space, "JO
davs later, the velocity had not only diminished, but what current was foimd
was nearlv in an oj)posite direction. In relation to the extent of this S.K.
current in the months of March and April, I have no precise information, nor
can I 8U])ply it from others, since those who had previously visited this part
of the ocean had not paid sutficient attention to this subject to furnish any pre-
cise data. All, however, agree in the fact, that they were alfected by a S.E.
( urrent, often reaching the longitude of WW W. and the latitude of 35^^ X,

Admiral Liilke, whose seientihe character and ample means command all
confidence, makes the following observations on this part of tho ocean.
JSorth ravijic, 7 r

III

]i,iill

1210 THE rURRKNTS OF THK NOIITII rACIFIC OCEAN.

In the same wny that the conntant Wcat current within the limit of the N.E.
tindc win-Is is explained by the constant easterly winds, so beyond this limit
we meet with such currents as the j)revalent wind would afford an explanation.
We met with but one exception to this rule. In the three traverses to the
South of Kna:chatka and br.ck again, between lut. 30" and 40 10 45", andlonjj.
ICi"" and H'V, we found, even witii easterly winds, currents to the Kast. In
our route from the Honin siina Islands to Kamehalka, in Mny, IS.'S, we felt vlie
fuKl etfict of this current, in lat .l.) 12 , where in two days it carried us 74
miles to the N.K., in calms and extremely lij;ht S.K. winds. From thence, in
lat. 45^, wc had for ten doys, with only two exreplions, always currents to llio
Ivjsl, although during all this time the wind was betweei\ S.F. and N.K., and
that they blew sometimes very freshly. 'Ihe mean action in this interval was
16 milis in J I hours to N. 47 F. The current after tliat bore even more to
S.F., but then durinjj fresh winds from N.W. In the route from Kamchatka
to I'alan, in October and November, we found the fust S.E. current in lat. .'i>^
durinj; S.F. wii\ds ; ti»e currents towards the Fast rpiarter kept up for 8 days,
the strongest occurred this time, too, in about lat. 34', when we were drifud.
in 24 hours, ;{0 miles X. 5^ F., the wind marly calm. Its mean acti<iti in these
t< days was .'< (> miles in 24 hotn-s. to the F.S.F. We found it in the same
manner, and a ye;u later, in lat. 40 .during a strong S.F. wind, or S.F. euneiit.
It was not then so muikid, but as far as lat. 31- its general direction was
towards the N.E. quarter, ond afterwards, in Int. 27 J", we again found the .*" F.
current, two consieulive days, of 10 miles in 24 hours, with the weather acaily
calm, or extremely light Fa.^l winds.

(.'aptain Ileeelny found the same during 3 days, in about lat. 3.V N., lon^.
1G<) i;. ; the currents were then froiu 40 miles to the S.E. to C miles to the
South, and I'J miles lo b.F. by S.

These currents have a rcmaikable analogy with those wliich have been ob
served in the Mine latitude on the coast of Japan, where strong Fust and .N'.K.
currents jtrcdominate. In comparing these phenomena with each other, the
conviction cannot be avoided that oome connection exists between iheiu.

This it the only current in the northern part of the raciliu Ocean in which
any sort of constancy haji been observed indejK-ndint of the prevalent win U ;
with the exception of tln», we usually found that the currents followed the
prevailing wind. To the N-cth of this parallel of 42', in the w«.•^t•.•rn p.irt if
the M'a, we ihuncrd lo ha\e the wind almost ah>ays from the Fu't, &iiJ >».u
it currenla to the Wtst, mIucIi, during fre<ih breezes, were sumelimeti of 20
miles per day, und "Hun it feil calm they ceased entirely. In some cixscn, 'm
the contrary, when the wuiu.i parsed to N.W., the current then turned to S.F. ;
the immidiate inlluence of the wind was here evident. The same may bo
oflirmed for the spaet compr..'%etl belwem the parallels of ^0' and 32 and tiie
limits of the N.F. trade wind, although we lia\e met wilh sonic excepti^us.
In our route from the C'uiulinc Arelwpehigo to the Koniu-sima Islands wc lost

TIIR KI'KO 8IW0, OR JAPANERE CURRENT.

1211

the tinoo wind in lat. 22°, and thcnco to Int. 27° we had constantly currents
to tlic North, which corresponded more with the direction of the wind than with
its 8ti('nj;t!i, tlicy being sometimes very strong with very light airs Their mean
action in the interval of G d.iys was 15-.'J miles in 24 hours, to N. 9^ E. To
the N'./rth of the Honin-sima Islands, until we got into the N.E. current above
described, we had westerly cJirrenta of the mean rate of 12 miles in 24 hours,
with the winds fresh from East. Fartlier to the eastward, on the eorre»poQd-
ing parallels, the currents were also to S.W., with westerly winds.

In the eastern part of the ocean, on oiir route to the N.W. part of America,
the easterly winds accompanied us, from lat. 'My to lat. 4.5-', with such constanej'
that we could not observe any ohange from the trade to the ' ariable winds.
Farther on, until wc readied within sight of the laud, the East winds still con-
tinued, but they were neither so fresh nor so steady as before. During the
whole of this time the current was sometimes N.W., at others S.W., varying
in strength from 5 to 1') miles, its mean velocity in the space of 15 days being
80 miles per day to S. s7' W.

(In leaving the N.W. coast of America we likewise experienced a S.W.
current, but then it was more decided. In the first 4 days, up to lat. ot^ long.
H2\ it cnrried us to S..S.W. at the rate of 10 miles per day, even witii wind'i
from the West; it was only arrested once by a very strong wind from S.W.
Farther on, on our route to Ounalashka, during which contrary winds obliged
us to bear to the South, .ns far as lat. 4 Si, we did not have, in the course of 1 1
davs, up to lat. .^^ ', long. U'>>i\ any sort of current ; thence to Ounalashka
there was a weak current between N.W. and S.\V. Its mean drift in 24 hours
was, in 4 days, G miles S. "G^ W.

The cur'.iuts expcticnccd by us do not at all correspond with those observed
by the lCu^»i:m colonial marine, wlio fouiul ihe motion of the water, driven by
the almost continual Wc^l and S.W . winds, in general follows the direction of
the coasts, in running to t!ic North as far as ("ook's Inlet, or Kenaiskoi Uay,
and from tlience to tlie S.W. iWtween the N.W. coast of .Vnierica and the
nieridian of Kodiak the latitude observed is always greater tlian that by tlic
reckoning, and ^uitc the contrary farther towards Ounalashka. Articles that
have been dropped o; been thrown overboard from vessels at 100 miles to the
S.W. of Sitka have been found in Prince William's Sound, or Tehougatskoi
Uay: this shows, also, that the curienta run to the North or N.E., and from
this arises the great nuantity of drbris, of every description, thrown oii shoro
in the neighbourhood of this bay. The current to ihe S.W. and S.S.W. along
the Strait of (^helekhotf and the South coast of Aliaska, as well as on the South
coast of Kodiak, is eontirnied by the inhabitants of this latter island, who .search
for, and alwajs find, the wounded whales that liave been abandoned, in the
direction of Oukamok Island, where they nre can ied by the drift of the current.
The strength of the southerly eurrcr.t. at l.Jd iniles to the South of Kodiak,
has been sometimes found to be 60 miles in 24 hours, This southerly current

'f>'V\

- ■•■■

1212 THK (TURKNTS OF TIIH XOUTII I'ACIl'R' OCKAN.

is so:nctimo« met with at .T to the Knsl of the mcriilian of Kodiuk, and extends
to lite pnsji.'i^os hotwccii Uic Aleutian Islands, in which there are also periodic
eurnnl.s to the North, stronger thnn the oppoBiii}; current* to the South. It is
remarked, in peneral, Miat in spring andautumu the current is more strong and
constant than in the other seasons; thiH, perhaps, explaius why wc did not find
them in the order dcBcribeil. — Voyage du S^ninvlne.

Mr. W. II. Dall makes the following observations on the latter citrrent: —
The great Tacihc (iulf Stream scnd.s a branch northward and west\var<l from
the vicinity of lat. 'iO' N. on the N.W. const of America along the coast. This
current, with a temperature of 60^ to .W, during part of its course at least,
seems well defined, and has been termed in my reports the Alaska ( urrent.
'J'he great ruinf.ill nnd generally mild tempi ratures of the shores uf the Gulf of
Alaska seem to be almost wholly due to il.s effects.

At some indvleiuimatc point this current divides into two branches, runnini;
about a knot an hour, one of which passes between Kadiak and the mainlaml,
hugging the roiist, and (inuUy stuking off to the southward iu the vicinity uf
the Shumagins. The other h.is a more cveidy western course, and its extrt;:) o
southern limit is yet inuleflned, but may probably bo found between ; ,i '>'
and 62' N. Ik-twein the»c two arms a counter-current or eddy exisU", ru;, wti^-
in an cosleily direction. The North arm may be as-sumed to average about lOO
miles ia width ; the ■:fouth arm is probably twice us great.

In addition to the foregoing there will be found, on pages "li'i and 91G—
017 anif, some further remarks on the great Japan Stream.

The Oya Siwo, a counter-current of cold water, sets to the southward nlon^'
the S.K. c<»ast of Kamchatka nnd the Kurile Idauds, and, flowing along the
Kast coast of Yezo and the N.K. C'>-i»t of Nipon, is felt as far South as Inii-
bo-yc .^-aki. It has an average brtadtii of JtK) miles, but varies in velocity nii i
extent iu liie diireriiit siaMPiis, being much stronger in the winti r than in thi.
numiner. I'.xcept bet\>ecn the Kurile Islands, through the straits, and \h\<
Cape Noyshof, its velocity is about Ibi nules a day; through theac narnn\',
however, it sweeps occasionally witli great speed, particularly during or afttr
a f.tr'ing north-easterly wind. Its teiiiprrature varies, according to the reason,
from ID' to 16 luwer than that of the Kur.i ."siwo. The average tei:iperaturc
of this current in May was .17" [\Q' below that of the surrounding atmosphere\
In July the temperature was observed to be <")C at between 10 nnd 30 miles
from the fchore ; farther off shore where the temperature rose to 70*^, or where
it boidcrcd on the Kamtliatka Ciu-rcnt Huwing to the northward, the curre.'it
is not I'crciptible The Oya Siw.. is i.ot fiU close to the nhurc of Nipon, alonj
which the tidal s'ream;? are well defined.

The Kamchatka Carrcct is a Iraaeh of the Kuro Siwo, from which it
separates in the jmrallel of ■!<! N. on the meridian of 150 K,, and ilows at an
a\eragc rritc of 18 miles a day, with a brcudth of about :2U0 miles, to the north-

»'WI""WP«»«"»»"ww™!E

|nndcxtcn(l.i
IiIko pcritxlic
ISouth. It is
|c Htrong and
did not find

|r current: —

stward from
coast. Tliis
Itrsc nt lcn5t,
txka Vurrfut.
If the (iulf of

rhoR, runiiiiii;
t'lK' inaiiilaiiil,
lie viciuitv of
id its extro:) c
vTcou ; ,t '»'
xi^to, ru:. .I'l^'

ngti about Ik'J
82 and 91C-

mtliwnrd nlon^'
ring nlonj; the

South as Inii-
in vcloi'ity ;iii ;
t' r than in \\v
raita, and j-a-l
ihoic narrows
hjrin;^ or nflvr
J to the scaMUi,
;o temperature
g atnio"<|)lu-ri"

nnd 30 mili*
> 70", or wilt re
d, the curnr:t
»f Nipwn, aloiij

from whicli it
ind ilows Bt an
I, to the uorth-

TIIR SEAS OF JAPAN AND OKnOTSK.

I2I3

eastward n« for ni 6 1" N., where it deflects to tlie eastward towards tlic Aleutian
Islunde.

SEA OF JAPAN.

There exists at present but little information rcgnrding the navigation of the
Sea of Japan. 'I'lic winds there appear very variable, and the currents, depend-
ing on special causes, are at times insignificant, whilst at others they run with
great strength. The only thing known with certainty is, that a branch of the
Japan Stream, as a rule (altliough with many variations of velocity, direction,
and breadth, and much inllucnced by the wind), holds its way north-eastward
from Korea Strait, at a rate of 2 to 2^ knots an hour as far as the parallel of
38" N., northward of which it generally gradually lessens in force. At the
Strait of Tsu'j'ar it splits into two streams, one branch setting to the eastward
througli the strait with great velocity ; the otlier branch continues, but with
greatly diniinibhed .strength, along the West coast of Yezo, and (lows into the
Sea of ()ki:ot»k through the Strait of La Purouse. This current attains its
greatest force during the S.W. monsoon, slackening and becoming variable at
the chaiig' of tlie monsoons in April and October, and setting ti)the southward
in winter, in the season of northerly and westerly winds in the Sea of Japan,
and of the N.I"., monsoon in the China Sen.

Hctwciti Vladivostok nnd the S.W. part of Yezo elevations of tcmpcratui-o
of lO"* to II , at all times of the year, closely indicate the transition from the
cold const-current into the Tsushima j)r warm) current. — Professor J. J. Rein,

There seems to be no regularity in the currents along the western coast of
this sea; they are in general very feeble, increasing only off the abrupt points
of the coast. Uroughton, who, in October, 171)7, passed close along this coast,
notices a current setting to the S. S.W. at tlie rate of 1 mile an hour. The
I'lencli frigate I'iiyiin'e, in -July, l»oG, found weak currents setting to the
northward at a mean rate of 10 miles in 21 hours. In summer a stream has
been found setting to the S.W. along the coast of Manciiuria.

In the (iulf of Tarldry there is scarcely any current, it being subjected to
tidal induence. The great body of water flowing into it from the Amur River
causes a general set to the southward in the middle of the gulf, but it is scarcely
perceptible South of ihe parallel of 30'; wii'i strong northerly winds, how-
ever, it is materially iucrcuiteU, but with winds from the southward it ia not
•pprecittble.

SEA OF OKHOTSK.

The direction of the currents in this sea is somewhat uncertain ; they are
found to increase in strength as the land is approached.

Near Cnjie Eli«abcth, and on approaching the CJulf of Amur, heavy over-
falls and ripples occur, which appear to be produced by shallow surfnee-
ourrcnt9, nnd they often render a vessel quite unmanageable. On some oeca-

l.i !

:t'.

H %

1214 THE CrUUENTS OF TIIK NORTH PACIFIC OCKAN.

sions, in ft itondy 5-knot breeze, vessels hare been for hours .Tith their bend i^
the wrong diroction, unable to answer the brim or trim of sails. A strong
surface-current here may naturally be expected, as the immense body of wafer
from the Amur, meeting with the obstruction cause<l liy Sagbnlin Island, effects
its escape by the largest outlet, rushing over the shallow bank* at the m.iutli
of the ri\er, and, continuing its course, following the line of coast round Capo
Klirjjbcth, causes, e.Hj)ccially with Ivist and S.I',, winds, a dangerous race, ex-
tondmg otf shore 3 or 4 miles, and setting strong to the southward along the
ea.stern coast of Snghalin, where, for some distance, the sen is discoloured by it.
The hurtle Curre»(* has its source in the deep bays of Cihijinsk and IVn-
jinsk, and runs along the West co.ist of Kamchatka towards the Kuiilts,
which it washes in their whole lengtli after receiving a weaker current from
the I'',a6t side of the peninsula near Cape I.opatka. Then it washes the North
and Kast of Yer >, and has here, even in the height of summer, n very low
temperature of h. J '^ ". Finally on the esutern shores of Nipoi., in lat.
39"', this arctic cur;. reduced in sumnur to a narrow strip of a coast-

current, while in wintci it penetrates 1' farther .South. This cold current is
e.iUed by the Jipnncw Oya ifin-o. It !i:is a dark troubled cn'o:ir, contrasting
strikingly with th« dark blue water of the warm current. — Vrofeuur J . J. Jieiit.

SKA OF niinniNO.

The Kamchatk.T Current, a branch of the Japanese Current, and the general
drift induced by the prevailing S.W. winds, enters the Sea of iiohring from
the S.,S.W., ond exerts considerable inHuencc on the climates of the respective
shores. I5ut in a nautical sense they are uniinpo-Uuit. 'I'he following is an
extract from Mr. Simpson's remarks, drawn up while in 11. M.S. J'/uver, in
18J2 : — In the absence of actual observations for determining the e\irrents in
these seas, the j. roofs of the existence of such a one as tijat described are col-
leete<l from other circumstances, the chief of which are as follow : —

In the liginiiing nf summer the eastern side, .St)Utli of llie strait, is free from
ice, and Norton I5av itself is usuallv cleared as early as April. After the midiHc
of June not a particle of ice is to be seen between I'oint Spencer and King
Island, whilst the comparatively still water North of St. Lawrence Island is
hampered witli large flo«'s until late in July. This can be siUisfactonly
accounted for by the existence of a northerly current of warmer water, partly
driving and partly thawing the ice from the American shorca.

• So nsmtd hy Pr L. ran Bthrenck in an article entitled "I) i Courants Jam In Mw
d'dkhotalc," from ob*«rrationa recorded un KuMii«n vo*» Is, publii-hoil in th* " MutimirM
do lAcadcmie itnpcrtalo da 8t. I'eti^'rabourg," ls73, and i< -iiiililirhcd in tho "U/dxu^'ca-
phifprho Mitthpilunffcn," 1874, and iu lh« " Annalti Uydrujfraphi ^ue.t,' IS'i.

SEA OF HEIIIUNG.

1215

There is scniccly a particle of drift-wood to be Imd on the Asiatic coast from
Knmchntkii to Kust Cupc, wliilst nbundanco is to be found in Port Clarence and
Kotzcbac Sound, as well us along the whole of the American shore from Norton
U.ij- to I'oiiit I'liurow. Although it has been found that pine trees 60 inches
in f^irth grow lure, on tlic banks of American rivers, williin the C7lh parallel
«)f latituile, yet from the frecpicntly larger size of the trunks, and their great
nbundance, it is evident thc'e northern regions, including Norton 15ay, cannot
supply the (juantity ; anil more southern rivers, whether Asiatic or American,
or both, must be looked to for the immense multitude of water- worn stems and
roots strewed almost everywhere along the beach. Their southern origin
would also seem to be indieatcd by the presence, in many of them, of the re-
mains of the teredo udtalis, which could hardly retain life throughout the rigour
of eight or nine months frost every year. Capt. Wellesley mentions having
picked up, on the North side of the entrance to Port Clarence, a buoy wliieh
hi'.d been j)rcviou8ly lost from the anchor of the Dicdulus olT the island of St.
Lawrence.

In the United States Coast Survey Reports, 1S72 and 1880, and in the
Appendix i. to the raeitic Coast Pilot, arc some elaborate Reports, by Mr.
■NV. II. Dull, on the Currents and Temperatures of IJehring Sea and adjacent
waters, ond on the Meteorology of Alaska, from which the following extracts
ore taken : —

Along the coast of Ilastern Siberia, from East Cape to Cape Lopatka and
Bouth-wevtward, a flow of eold water steadily pours from the N.E. It is
probablv (piite narrow in liering Strait, but spreads out as it passes south-
westward, and between Kamchatka and the western end of the Aleutians
occupies a width of CiOO or 700 miles, consisting of a thin surface-stratum,
which has in July n tem|)crature but little over 10" F., beneath which is .-i
thin band varying from 3o^ to 10' (both together not exceeding 50 fatloms in
vertieal extent . while beneath this to 3,700 fathoms the mass of water varies
from the freezing point to 35°.

My own conclusion, from a study of the data, is that the general tendency
of Bering Sea is t- the southward, and where deep enough, as in the western
part of the sea, it forms a tolerably well-defined current (which I shall call the
Kamchatka Current, though this is not the Kamchatka Current of most hydro-
graphers, which forms only a very small part of the one under consideration),
whose character and motion are probably very constant. M'hile a certain
amount of water enters Bering ISea through Bering Strait, under favourable
circumstances, this amount is relatively insignificant, and the Kanjchatku
Current can hardly be proj)erly termed a polar current. It is a current proper
to the cold deep basin of that part of Bering Sea West of the shoal waters, and
to a great extent reinforced by precipitation and the river sujjply from the two
continents. There is not a particle of evidence to show that miy mass of warm

'r- . 1

IJia THE CURRKNTS OF THE NOUTH TAClI IC (XIIAN.

water constituting; a warm current u given off in tho direction of Bering Sea
bv the Kuro Siwo.

The chief current of »hc Koring Sea is n motion of cold water southward.
This has a suptrficiiil stratum above it, which has, in summer when not inter-
rupted by winds, a northerly motion of translation, but is not Buflicient to bo
entitled to t«kc rank as an ocean current.

The surface currents of Hehrinj; Sea are formed by, or rliiefly dependent on,
tides, winds, rivei flows, the sou'herly motion of colil water, the distiil>\itioti
of floating iee, and tlic northerly motion of slightly warmer surface water,
which arc effective in about tho order named.

No warm current from Hering Sea enters Hiring Stmit, with the exception
of water from the adjacent rivers or sounds. This water owes ita heat directly
to the local action of the tun's rays.

N.W. COAST OF AMEUICA.

The great extra- tropical drift has been traced in its eastern progrcs.«, from
the imperfect data ut our command, in the previous pages. Like the currents
on the coast of Europe, the warmer waters arc driven on to this coast, and so
cause all the ])eculiarilii s of water and land elimates alluded to on page '>'.••.'.
The sea abounds with animal life to mi enormous extent. It is the greatest
fishery in the worhl, while the S.W. winds, blowing on to the coast over the
water warmer than is due to the latiti.dc of the coasts, deposit on the land tho
accumulated evaporation, and cause tho climate of Alaska to be omong the
wettest in the world.

The Ala'>kii Current, a branch of this drift, sets to the northward of lat. .W
along the coast, and southward of this par.dlel the main body a2)pcars to turn
'a> the S.E. and Soutii.

COAST OF CALIF* )UMA.

The drift we have been tracing, in a reverse direction to the gcogmplilMl
orrnngemcnt of this work, as.-umes a mor* decided character alon^ the co;ist
of California, and is here much eolder than the corresjxmding latitude, so that
the harbours, such as San Francisco, arc fretjucntly enveloped in fogs. It
follows the general trend of the coast, and may be ;10U miles broa<l in the more
marked j)ortJons of its course, but this is very indefinite. Under the shelter
of the projecting headlands, ond frequently close in-shore, there are counter-
currents, and reversed tides, by whieh small vessels can advantageously work
their way against its general influence. Its velocity is H or 1') miles a day,
reaching a muximum of '2'2 miles otT the entrance to the (Julf of California.

On approaching the southern {)arts of California, aiul in the latitudes uf tbc

««i

k'rin^ Sea

louthward.
not iutiM-
■ient to be

londonl on,
listrihutioii
face water,

exception
cat directly

)j»rcM, from
tlic nirri'iu-s
Mast, ami st)
111 paj^c 5y.*.
the nrcati'>t
last over tlio
tlu' land tilt'
L< among thu

rd of lat. 50'
pears tu turn

pco<»rnphicnl
ouj; the coast
itudo, 80 that
in foj^s. It
I in the more
or the ithcltcr
I aro couiJter-
goously work
') nules n dav,
;\ilifornia.
.tituJtti uf the

"WKST COAST OF NfEXICO.

1217

peninsula, it a^sume« a hif^hor t<;niperature and a more westerly course, and is
gradually merged in the great ecjtuitorial drift fir-'t dcseribed.

WKST COAST OF MEXICO.

Tlic currents on thiw debateablc ground are very difficult of definition. The
navigation of Hailing ves.sils in frerpicntly very ditlicult and tedious, owing to
the embarrasinient of culm« and varying drifts, but there is no doubt they
fluctuate with the hhifting monsoons which prevail here. Cape Corrientes,
in lat. '20 '2'y , that in fairly within the trojiic, and which is subject to the
varying streams which give it the name, is probably the northern limit of these
shifting streams, and between that and Cocos Island, around which the streams
are very devious, it may be considered that the general set will be to the
southward, between S.K. and IvS.M., in the winter months, and northward,
N.W. to W.N.W., the rest of the year, but, as before stated, nothing very
definite can be laid down. It appears to have a breadth of nearly 360 miles,
and there is a counter-current close in-shore.

The central portion of the North Pacific appears to be devoid of any currents
dependent on any primary cause ; ami around this space the curreiitb circulate
in the order which has bien described.

In the I'hysikaliHchir .Vtla.s, by Professor Herghaus, a space in the eastern
part of this area in the North I'acific is called I'leuriru's Whirlpool, as it is
translated in the lintish ediiion of that work. This vortex is assumed fro a
the rciisoniiiL; by Fleiirieu un tiie voyage of /.(/ Sulide by Ktieniie .Mareliiiiid.
Hut indipi'iideiit of the not very satisfactory conclusions arrived at by tiie
geographer, in tlio Apjiciidix to tiie second volutiK' of that work, it may very
fairly be (lue.stioiu'd whether the reekonini; of the vessel is entitled to such dc-
jiendcncc as to found any characteristic of the currents as is attemjited in the
chart aliudctl to. It was staled in the outset that the estimation of eurrents
was no easy problem, and that many causes concurred in the error of a ship's
reckoning which have been unjustly attributed to the effects of currents.
This argument will jirobably apjily with some weight to the voyage iu (|ues-
tion.

There can be no doubt that this so-called vortex is but the eastern extremity
of that central area of (juiescent waters around which the eastern and western
drifts of tlie Pacific basin circulate There is one most remarkable evidence
of this in the growth and abundance of animal life, ai'rial and marine, which
evcrvwhere is found. Sea-fowl, of many species, hover cou>t:iiitly over it: the
waters are alive in some jiarts with molliisca and the fish which feed on them,
and for man) years it was one of the favourite whaling grouuds ol' the
A'or/A J'acijic. 7 u

Ill

li:

J.'

^^^^

1218 THE curhents of thr north pacific ocean.

racifio flwt, their prey bting attracto<l hero by tho nbundanco of food. In
thiH reapect it u precisely a repetitioo of the wcll-kuuwn Sargauo Sea in tlie
Allautir.

Wc h.iTe thiui briefly and imperfectly drawn nttontion to tho more marked
fcattireii of the moToraent* of the Pacific waters, which are, a* said before,
■omewhnt difficult to define.

'llio note* by Commander Trollope, R.N., given in the Appendix to tho
Voyage of H.M.S. HfraU, will be of great interest, m showing the uuccrUia
nnturv of the currents in the S.E. |)art of the North I'acifio.

I ft*

' fond. la
Sea in the

noro marVed
Mid before,

i^ndix to the
kc uoccrtuin

( 1219 )

ClIArTER xvir.

I.— TIDES, MAGNETISM, ICE.

1. TIDES OF THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN.

ExTRPT un ^ho lurrounding shores, where they exhibit similar phenomena and
ma|{nitudc to other pnrta of the world, the tides of the Pacific are insignificant,
and almost unnoticcablc to the mariner. The tables which are given hereafter
contain the elements of the tides necessary to nc . igation : that is, the hour of
high water, and the rise and fall of the tide, on the coasts of America, Asia,
&c. But in the vast space been these two boiudaries the tidal wave is
scarcely appreciable, except by refined observation, and can form but a small
portion of the actuating consideration in navigation.

Under the.ie circunutances we deem it unnecefisary to enter into the general
laws of the tides as founded by the illustrious Newton, or the interesting
features elicited by the discussion of the late Rev. Professor Whewell and Sir
John Lubbock. The present consideration, therefore, will be confined to the
general view of the Pacific tides, as set forth by Dr. Whewell, to whom the
main features of the tidal laws, as they ore now known, is mainly owing.

TiiE Re''. W. Whewell on the Tides of the Pacific.

I shall not attempt to determine the general course of the tides in the Pacific,
but will remark that the vit«w now given of the distribution of the tides in an
ocean exi)lain8 Bcveriil of the features of the Pacific tides, which were before
very perplexing. If we suppose an ocean tide, from the borders of which pro-
cued tides having their progress marked by cotidal lines, we can easily draw
the lines so as to include the following facts and observations : —

1 . The eatterly motion of the tide wave around Cape Horn, which is esta-
blished by Capt. King's observations, and which is difficult to reconcile with
the supposition of a tide revolving from West to East round the South pole.
This is explained by its being a tide proceeding from an oceanic tide.

2. The tide being at nearly the same hour along a hrge portion of the coast
of Soutli America, namely, from the Strait of Magalhaens for 20" or 3U° north-
ward. This shows that the cotidal line is neiiriy parallel with the shore.

3. The very small tides, or no tides, at the islands in the centre of the Pacific,
Tahiti, and the Sandwich Islands. These belong to a central portion of tho
ocean, where the rise and fall of the surface nearly vanishes.

There arc two sources of inaccuracy in tide observations, namely, the want

1,-. !l

12*20

TlIK TIDES t)F THK NOUTII PAriKir OfT.AN.

of a cirnr undortiUuiiling n^ to the thin^ to hv obscrvod, and the irroguliii ity
iU)<l complexity of iho fnctii thpnitolvon. With regard to the former point, I
ho|H< ihut M'Tcral inmnpprohi'niiionB, formorly pn-valent among navigator*, arc
now no longer common ; »ucii a.i confounding the time of high water with the
time of the turn of the tide strenm. Kut there is probably Rtill some unncocn-
•Hry ditiiculty produced by regarding, n» n rardinid point in obitcrratiun, tho
" eAtahliithmcnt," nx vulgarly understiKjd, niiiiiely, the hour of high water on
tlie day of new or full moon ; for, in fact, the hour of high water on tliiM duy
ia «'f no more iinportanre than the hour of hi^'li water on any other day, ex-
cept in au far an it gives the mean» of knowing the hour ou other days. And
it diva not afford the meana of doing this any more thnn the hour uf high water
for any other given itgo uf the moon does. For just oa much inaccuracy as,
from whatever eauxe, there is in de<liiciiig the time of high water at all ages of
the moon from the time at n given age, just as much inaccuracy is there, from
the same causes, in deducing the time of high water fur all ages uf the moc->
from the time for full or new in(K)n. Aud if the timo at which the tide follows
the moon on two or three successive oceaNioni* be greatly and irregularly
ditrcrrnt, the observatiotiH are iipially of little value, whether any of the ob-
served tides fall on the day of the new or full moou, or do lu.t.

If the tides are regular, and the observations gocMl, the common " eHtablish-
ment" may be obtained from the observations of any one day ; although, to give
it much value, the tides should be observed for a fortnight. And if such uli-
■ervations be made for a number of very distant places, the common " esUi-
bli»hmem " does not rrpre»»-nt u correspon<liiig fact at ditferetit places. In
some places it means the time of high water one day after the highest tide ; in
some, th« tide two days after the highest tide ; in some, three days ; fur the
** age of the tide " is different at different places, and the tide which corres|x)nilii
to the new or full moon comes after the new or full miwin by one, two, or three
days. Hence, in order that we mii;ht eom}>are the tides of distafit places by
means of a fact which hud the s&me meaning in all of them, I proposed, in a
former oaaay . instead of taking this e< mmon establishment, to Uike what I then
called the corrteteti ettabU$hment, namely, the mtan of all the lunitidal inter-
\alii, that it, of the intervals by which the tide follows the moon's iraiinit. In
general, the correcte<l establishment is about liiirty minutes less than the
common establi»hnient. It has been used by Admiral Liitke, in his discussiun
uf the tides of the I'aeitic. As the common establishment is still t.he one familiar
to navigatorb, and an no materiul error will result from the use of it, I ^llalt
make it the ba>iH of my remarks on the tides of the I'aeitic. It may l>c useful
to bear in mind wliat I have i>aid, that this establishment may be deduced fruiu
observations not made at the new or full moon.*

* I hsv* bsrt) S'i't that in oasM «hcr« the tides fullow the common Uwm we may deduce
the tinip of high w«t<~r un one day from thf time on another I niit^ht hnw (aid thu Kimv
ihltif; uf the beiglit*.

Irri>(;u!itiity
]cr point, I
[gatom, aro

:r with tlio
»e uimoco«-

ration, tlio
h water on
luik tliii* tiuy
ler (lay, ex-
llnyn. Anil

hi^h water
scuracy oa,

all ages of
there, from
f the tnoi;-'
tide follow*

irregularly

of the ob-

" etttahlish-
ou^h, to give

if tuoh oh-
imon " cstii-
1 place*. In
lipRt tide ; in
ays ; for the
I correajwniU
two, or three
int places by
oposod, 111 a
! what I then
nitidal inter-
I transit. In
esw than the
lis discus<iiin
I ouo familiiir
of it, I oIihII
lay he useful
litluced fri'iu

ire may deduce
\) Mid thu Mmti

THK TIDES OF TlIK NOIITII PACIFIC OCEAN.

1221

^ r<hall now proceed to givo the tide hours for the coasts of the Pacific, ac-
cording to thu best account* which I find, judging thent in the manner I have
described. After noticing the course of the tide near Cape Horn, I shall follow
it along the whole western uoast of America, till, in the North, wc reach the
Aleutian NIands ; and then, following this chain of islands, to the shores of
Kaintschatka. I ■hull then consider the islands in the central parts of the
i'acitio, aud piucuvd from thuui westward, according to m^- materials.

Wkst Coast or North Amkkica.

Orilii|Mii7i)«, Chitrlrs Id.
( 'i>cu«

ritiinina ....
riinniii.-i Iliiy

A'l oj/a

lnlmJ S. I,uci
Uuiilcjo

I.«t. ■ I/OII^

N.-rth ; Wflst.

1 IAS,

H 67

• • • f

9 66

12 28

M.
•i

1/i

5 IH

A(n|iiilco I |( 60

Zl' it

Maxdalana ll»y
San Hluji

Tin«i OnwBw
n.W. Tmie.

'i
•i

3 '20

Mn/iitliin
Monterey
If

2 41

3 6

■i»

8 30

Smi Frsncisco

21 32

A
! -M 36

37 48

• • • • t •

I'ort HodofTi . ..
C'ohiiiibia Kiver.

.■;s

1!»

MraiUiif Juando Kuca |H o
Nuolktt Sound 4^ 35

1'". Nicolikiifsky ((Jook's
Inlet) ....'.

60 ir>

• ■

••

11
iti

7 37

8 6

9 M
9 42
9 62

12 30

10 '2
Itt M

11 41

Iti^e.

12
35

20
44

rtET.

I'i

Authority.

1
12
lU

6
■30
30
4«

12 33

3 49

6 42

Iti

• 36
1 56

s
12

FitzRov. p. 84.
I'unly," K. M., p. 60.

VitiK'iniver.
Lliivd, I'hil. TruiH.,

1S30.
K.ai..tt

Sir K. Belcher.
FiUltoy.
Sir K. Belcher.
Sir E. Belcher, (ireat

irri'piiliirilies.
Sir K. Bt-lcher.
l)u I'etit I'houars.
Sir E. Belcher. Very

onotnaloits.
I)u I'etit Thoiars.
Mcnri. on S. America.
FitzKoy.
I!o--they.
Booch'fv.
Boecl.ey

Du I'ulit Thouars.
Sir E. Ik'khor. Very
1 nnuinalouH.
' Diurnal inf<in»lity,
I H.W.&L.W.liirKO

in hi. and limoe.
Boechey & Malaspina.
liuiwian nav. (Liitko's

notice).
Uusitiiin navigiitors.
Sir E. Helchur.
Vancnuvor.
Kullett.

Sir E. Bolcher. Oroat
dinmid inequalilios.

•Wrangtll.

From thi.s jioint the coa.st turns wcstword, and the stations are arranged
nccordinj; to longitude, without regard to their latitude.

fl.

l.J*

(■' (■

123'i

THK TIDRS OK TIIK NOIITH PACIFIC OCEAN.

V NioiiUiUy (Cbwk'a
IpM) , M

lUrhour of B(. I'auL

(KUiMk I*Uni) .., S7 4A

llarbmir I llifi*ix|. ..| A7 8

NoucUfrnk h*y .... \8 31

Almttitm I$Ut.

Ht Pk«1 IriMtd.
Atkhi> laU^d...
Attott laUad . . .

rolrop*ulov«ki ..,

ft7 10
61 25

63 67

51 1

Tiit>«
H. W.

Umrnw.
Tin*.

KiM.
FBVr.

10
10
U

6
33

• •

Authority.

H. a.

10 «

10 8
10 It

10 34

ii M

11 ^:

la 38

IS 38

• • « t

M. a.

3 40

39
It
3 U

S 47
30

: 48

S 38

S 43

S M

M. ■. '

1 M

10 38

10 81

• 7

11 6«

1 16

* 4
6 f

KoMMD iuvi)(ston.
RaMwn n*Tif»tori.
Wrtttgvll.

RhmIiui n«r{|r«ton.
duubUuL

l4itk«,iii 1837.
Lnlka. ia 1N2H. Diur-

nsl in«aa«liti<«.
Dn I'atit TkuuAn.

Looking at the general aiermblage of the numbon which oeenr in tho
column marked " (Jre«nwic)i Timt>," it ia erideut that tho tiUu wave of the
hour H, which is at Cocu« Island and the (ialapagua about 8 o'clock, comes to
tlie continent at Nicoya and Healejo, about 10* and 12" North latitude, at
about three-quarters of an hour later ; while the tide is later than this, both t<
the uortliward and southward. Proceeding first southward, we find the 1:
of 1 1 not far from Callan, that of '2 near Cotiuimbo or Val|>nraiso, and that v>.
3| near V::idiTia ; and further South we have the lino of 5 at Ciiilo'.% and of 6
at l'a}>e I'lllar; whence the wave mores to the eastward, round l^ape Horn.
Considering these points as fiied. it is easy to inter]>olatv the other cotidul
Hues along this coast. 'Ihv obserred hour at Guayaquil is later than itn poni-
U-m would girc, a result v-Lioh we should expect, since th?; tide will i>ccupy
•omc time in trarclling i:p the gulf in which Guayaquil is situated.

Again, proceeding from Nicoya and Uealejo. to the northward, we find a
like progression of t>de hours, llie line 10 is not far from Acapulco, accord-
ing to the data he.e collected. Kut the tide at Acapulco is small, and hence
the accuracy of tiie result la doubtful. I'erha])* the smullness of tho tide ia
an indication ihit the point of divergence of ihe tide ware, whif.-h occuih on
this part of the American coaat, is C'<t far from Acapulco. It appears that the
line of 3 passes near San lilat, and also near the liay of Santa Mugdalena, on
the coas' of diliforiia. At Maxatlan, somewhat within the (iulf of Califoriua,
the time is ru Uour or two later, as we should espcct. When we reach Mon-
terey and San Francisco the hour is about 6, according to Capt. Uecchcy's ob-
servations, line more recent ones arc too imomalous to proceed upon. At
Port liodegn, in lat. Sb", wc have the b tide line; and atNoolka Sound, Cook's
observations, which give 12^ 30" (whence Urvenwich IX nearly), arc confirmed

THE TIDES OP THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN.

1323

by Cnpt. Kcllctt'* ob«crv«tion» in the Strait* of De Fucn, South of Vancouver's
Iitlnnd. The next point ia thu RuMian settlement. Now Archangel, in the
inland of Sitk*, where the tide* exhibit very curious features, as I have already
stated from the oboorvutionii of Admiral Liitke, and, as I find, further con-
firmed by the observations of Sir Kdward Uelchcr. The line belonging to
Hitka appears to hv 12^.

From thin point wo depend upon Russian observations, which arc given by
Admiral Liitke in his " Noiico." These enable us to see that the cotidal Imes
bend, as usual, deep into the head of the bay in which is Cook's River (Inlet),
in lat. 60". The coa»t hero trends to tho West, and the wave follows it, and
pursues its course along the chain of tho Aleutian Islands, where it is traced
bv Admiral Liitke and the navigator nf the Russo- American Company. It
appears that the lines of 11, 12, 1, 2, fall near this chain, and that tho line of
6 is near the coast of Kamchatka. It is not difficult to arrange the cotidal
lines so as to conform to these data.

Admiral Liitke has observc<l the tides at other places on the Asiatic coast,
as far North as fiS", but I shall not attempt to arrange them.

Our next attempt must be to arrange the tides of the oceanic isles of the
North Taciiic.

if.

IsLKfl OF THK NoBTH T'aCIPIC.

L«t.
North.

I>)ng.
Wait.

Timo
H. W.

(Irwnw.

'I'iiiio.

Rue.

Authority.

Sanduifh ItUi.

•

?,1 18

H. M.

10 32

13 7

14 20
14 29

18* 28
16 62

16 60
IJ 61

16 41

16 23

!6 8
10 39

H. M.

3 3ft

3 36

8 23
6 43
6 3

6 28

7 36

• * • •

4 4U
6 36

9 37

12 62
4 21

H. M.

2 7
4 42

10 43

9 12

9"56

11 28

• • • •

8 40

10 17
2

PBBT.

2
6

• •

'e
4

• •

18
12

Du Petit Thouars.

Vmrolimt ItUt.
Ijklim , ,,...

6 IS

13 n
26 62

26* '30
6 66

34 17

26 20
22 12

24 16

1 48

Ltitke.

Ladrme ItUt.

Freycinet.

Liitke.

B«eohey.

Boecliey.

Hir E. Belchor.

Sir E, Belcher.

Sir E. B«lcher. Ano-

oialons.
Sir E. B«lcher. Diun.

Boain IiIm

Iioo-Cboolalai". '.'.!..
Sand Isle, Huiboanga

ltaMh«« Oroup

lintAn Island

Ciircon AiX'hipeUgo ..

Pn^^uann • t • • ■

Ilonft Kong

Amoy Harbour

Rkutubon

inoqualiti«a.
Sir E. Bfllcher. Dium.

iDe(|ualitiea.
Captain U. Smith.
Sir E. Belcher.

These observations appear to imply a general motion westward of the tidal

..m

BaBRH

i i

\11\

TUK TIDES OF TIIK NOKTH I'AriFm OPKAN.

wave ; but 1 conceivo that tliov nrc much lo«» few and too unconnpctcd to j«>*tify
mc »n drawing cotidRi liiica ; twnules which, the HmiillntM of the tides in the
central |Mvrt« of the ocean makes the obsorTationn more than usually doubtful,
and »» aceoiiipiinied by some e«rciim»«tnnee» inconsistent with the notion of f\
Biniple proKfeswve wa>e as the n>j>n'»entalion of the tidal phenunieiitt of thone
Biiu. 1 will eonsider tho?« circumstances for a moment.

Tidfs of the Crntral Pncijir.

Hie tides orcr a preal portion of the central jmrt c»f the Pacific are so small
that we may consider the lunar t«dc an almi>st vanishing. Thus, at IJau or
llow) iHliind. it IS stated am only 1 foot; at Tahiti it is hardly more; at the
Sandwich isiands U is 2 feet: an«l even nt New Ireland, where we are no
K>ng<.T m the central »{4>ce, but amonp the larj^er islands to the West of it, the
tide is only alwuut '2. feet. !lut, morctjver, at some at least of these places, the
tide, small as it is. is not the lunar ti<le followin^ the usual laws. At Tahiti,
fur inft;iniT. the time of hiph wnter appeiirs never to deviate from noon by
mere than a cerUiin dilfcrence. although Sir I'.dward Helcher has shown that
it varies from about U a.m. t'« 3 p.m. At Uau Island there npi)earH reason to
bcliere that the limitij are much the same ; and, perhaps, at Carterels Harbour,
in New Ireland Now it will l)c easily seen that such a result a.s thi» would
follow if we were to supJnl^e the tidul influence of the sun and of the moon to
be equal. On this supposiuuu it i.i plain that the high water would alw.ivs
occur halfway In'tweeu the siin'« transit and the moon's transit. Hence, at
new m(K)n. the hi^h water would be at noon ; as the nxiwn went aw;i) to the
ca.stward of thf sun, the tide would Ix' later and smaller ; till, when the moon
wan sn hour's distance from the sun, the tide would be at .T', but would in fact
v•.lni^h. After this point the tiile would re-appear at '.» a.m., ur « little lalii,
the inferior transit of the moon now taking the place of the sujierior one in
determining the tide ; and from this time the tide would be gradually latti
and larger till at full moon 't would be again at notm ; and so on. 'J'his apjMiir!.
to ngriT pr« It\ well \Mth tlic phenomena of the tides at Tahiti, a.t determined
by Sir K. lielcher.

A more minute examination »>f the tide* in these regions will enable us to
pronounce more dcci>ietlly whether the law of the phenomena is that which has
been just staled And if it ujijMars that the phenomena tlo follow this law, wv
shall have further to considi r how such a motion of the sea in those parts is to
l>e eoiiibineil with tin- vcni liitfrrent Jiiovfment'^ which occur in other jiiaci!*,
and what i» the general moviiiient of thi. -^cean which they imlieate ; whether,
for instance, they are best explained by lu<iking upon the lunar and solar partw
of the tide, as pnxluced by two wparate waves, which may increase I'.nA
diiuinish s«;parately, and m^iy ^tart from diflcrent epochs in their motions I
fciiall Out tiMW piiihue ilu'« jKJiiil further; nor ohall 1 furtlier exani'MC how far

TTIE TTDKS OF THE NORTH rAriFIC OfKAN.

l!J25

tlic plicnomenn approach to tiic cnnes of lluici molmti alrcndy (Kscrihed, in
uhieh there is ii irmrkcd wu%e at the outskirts of the mass, and nn approximate
(luicsorncc of the fturfaco in thi' ct-ntral ])art8 ; nnmoly, tlie case of a statioruiry
iiiululation. and of a revolving undulation, or rather a revolvinj; eotidal line.
I may remark, however, tliat the latter supposition, that of a revolvin'^ undu-
lation, by which the tide is carried from California northwanls alonj the
American shore, and to the coast of Kani(;l».»tka, while the cotidal lines eon-
verge to some central point in the North I'aeific. would explain the smallncss
of the tides at the Sandwich Islands.

The foregoini^ is that portion of Professor Whewcll's important scimtific
contribution which refers to the North Pacific. Although some minor detiiils
m IV be moditied by more recent obscrvatiims, still, as the arijuments are based
on correct data, the conclusions remain Tniimpeachable. We have, therefore,
deemed it right to repeat them in the present edition.

The following Ti<lf Tabic is derived from the .Admiralty lists, drawn up by
tjtaff-Commander Harris, 1{.N., and give all that is neccbsary for the navigator.

TIDK T.vni.K

i'Liio.

I Hi«h I I

I \Vrtt.T, ! rtis<>. {

I Full miri S|inn;,'s I
! Cldriirr.

riacf

High I

WutAf, I Rise.
Full And Ispriogii
Chanj?e. j

Ctntral .imfiuil, hot
(Wit.

('h»>po Uivor ;

I'winj (loowiles (Tmi>ichi

iHl.^n.l)

Chniiie Buy

T«I>''K'« . • • '

I'ftiiaiim Uuttd

I'oit Nui vo

rariii.'i Iwl'tixl

Nii-ora (.iulf (I'urt Hi'rrii-|

dura) '

Tort S»n Juan d<l Snr .

)l. M.

3 40

I'ott lli«!')Jo

Tort la Union, Oiilf cf

Fuliwi .1

AoHJ utla liiMid

n
lit

H •
C

3 ir.

Mexico, U'fit Co«it.

Port Oimtulio .
Port Hiicriticioe

FT.

16
16
14

16-2
Vi
10 J

lop
11

I .^capulrri

I'irul I Uhv . . . . •

, .'^JUl liliM

.M)ir>atl»n i

'■itaymaM II.'krtxMir , '•

( Viloriwlo Kivor entranco

< ttit/iirtmi, afiH Ormott S;
H a*Jnti4)t'jH J'rrri(or%tt,*

;;.San Ijwra.s IJay

(*■» Vnz HarUmr ........

MMirilAlun t Hhv

I I'ort !>fui WtMiitin

I I'urt Sun liartolomo ....

Il'kya Maria liay

i(Vrr<j« If] ■' <]

j.Su. llnrlw >» IsliMid ....

."^HU Die:; ' Kay

San JuHi Anrh.jm^ii ....

San I'tnin) AnchornKt

SttuMi(fuul(Cu>'k>r JJarb ]

8
H
8
9
9
9
9
H
9
9
9
9

1.')

28
27
■23
:w
10?
'iii'r
10

43
40 «
4."i

iT.

25—30

7—9?
7- -9?
7—9

• Tbo tide* on thoso cooatH are very ccrnplioatod. 'I'liore ftrn Mponerally in each lunnr day
twu hiijh mid two low waters, which are unequal m height and in tiino in proportion to
Aorth Pacific. 7 u

HMhaifflWBBiaSM

1 '226

TWK TIDES OF THE XOUTH PACIFIC OCI'.AN'.

riac*.

KuJl «nil

S»ritA liom !«lnr.{

SiinUt I 'Alnli'm ii«Uri<i

HnnUtriir J-^hik!

Hun l.uiK < )lii«|K> i

Monlf'n-y

South K«r«)lnn ,

Sivn Kr»iKi*t\ N^rtS

H<<w<'Jli , .

Dsmkw'f l\»f

>!<i«kl(il S'vWt..

h';imN»l.!t lUtr

Trijitdid H«r\»ur

( Y.^%l^'nt < iiy .

IVirt !>rt ml

»'.».* Uiy ,

<".\.liiinl»* iixxvr •ntranii*

A rtifnn

<t\'«y HwiJuniT

N>i'-'»li M.u!«>«r .......

N«w I liil)«;t'>i. no

S'.irt rowttiiii^iuJ '

K'.rt .'■'U (liu^xim

< '!yin|>i*

S.>..k<. !nU 1 2

Kj»niiiin»U llMrimur* .... irr.

\ in'.wm M»r'v')ur* : irr.

!{>w~h<- HM!»Nir, llnro

SjjTuS irr.

Pf.rt J)i»x>vcrv 'i .'U>

Ni»qti<d!y. I'lii^cl S.>(i!nl . 6
I>rrtvt«'n MiuUjur.J'U-Mnih-

m.«, lUy 2

Kr»«' r Kivr-r "nLt/tnci" ,, 'i "0
I'lirmr^ luh-l, (inlt ,,.f

I i<<>ri;ia »)

Ivmn'l ,..,.... r norvr.

l'.*t (Jrnvrti mmn.

Sumrt <'h«nnrl, <'\«t'i

ItiuUjiir

Nurinnnfi l!'<rUt<jr, liulf

o( » trtirifia i)

rr.

SOP

ftp

3if

SAf

ft?

!()

4
4

! 1

l-i

■ifi

r,-

3 «

4«

ft*

4r.

7 iti
7 1"

!«<

7 10

f>
\:

!0 i

ji : ^

',Viinoow> Ilnrlmur, Van.

', (vniviT I-lntiil 6

'llVniicr HxrKiur, Strait <if'
■i (*»orKii» I C

I'ort AuKii»U 6

Mcvnitniin lulanil, Slritil
,; of (^^oorina

"4iirjfii Narrowa

ItoncWTnua laUnda ....

Stuart Inland

i'WaddinKtcin llarb., Hato
InUrt

.( rowlUr><l Hartxmr, IHh'
(y)v«>ry I*ajM««<>

S«<ynx>«ir NurTDwa

<'4Mn<-lf<on llart>nur, So
diil<« Channrl j 3

I Forward HartuMir 3

ll«««v«T i'r<>«k, l^onKhUi '
mtiKh I til«t i 3

■r>|)*j!« ilitrVMMir

Kn<>« llAy

C.rt Nf»ill«

Tort Harv.y. L'all rrx-t>k

li«'a^)»r <>»»*<

\U>rt IUt, <'onn<>r»nt Ui

N'tmpktafv iCivi'r

S(i.iju»<i\h Aiiihi>nm»> ....

jlfHTor HarKour

.shutinarti. iUy

oUniJ HartK>ur, Uolelar
tlianix'l

llJuiHtcn suid 'rf»r«>y M.iir-

, hotirvt, Uu«'4 n Otailoth
H.Mm>i

•t'yppf»'»» i{arU>ur, Shar)

i'l»»*M»(H'

'lVp«'jfj H-tr'niur, Fifi'.^iuni

(N>!i<!\ HmrtxMjr

Sunday HurUiurA- I'u'vlt'
I (Vi>o, <iiRi*>n Charli't'

Stmnd

Kan'wi'U )Sa,''!»>ur k Sar

|ii;i>»iint i'aK<A^<>, Kiu^h!

;' Inl.t

\juntoino ri'itind, V.tnoiw-

rnt Itlani I 11

1 !

r.'

i)i

:u)

30
30
30

13
12

12 14

14
I2~14

II
tl

l«
I«

1«

ISf

!2i

It;

!i.i I'.i

the mo<>n*» iii-<-linaiion, dtfTorinK moat tram ^^.^rh olhov whoti t.h»; m>v)h'* (JvhiiAtion i^
frri*al/-at, and itmit whm thi> m<!on it en tK" F.«(uau>r. Th« high and ]ow watciit ^nerally
fxilow oaih I'thtr thim: fr rn the l.iwca), law wnf.er. 4h«* tidtr riai'* U> \.h~- lowor of iho tw"'
l.itfh walor* ^aonn-tiriMwi im{)rop»'rly call'^l " Imlf lido "), Ihi-n i.xlLt •.UkHiI)' '^ * '''" watfT
(which ii aometifRtia m(>r«'l)' indicatt-d by a ionR »t.vad) ; then iriawt to the highistt hi){h
walM. »h-nc<- it fulU appun U< th« lowMt low w»tei'.-- TnU TuAiV* /«r tke 7Wi/(r tWi( /
t><f I mlt4 Stttn.

• Msy Xo O-tob^, from midniftht to 3 a.m. Noveiebt'r to April, frvm noon to 3 ym.

TIIK TIDKS (^F TIIK NOKTII rACIFIC OCEAN.

1227

jr of iho twft

o ft low K*trr

hi)(hiv»( hit(h

riiMA.

HiKh

W»t..T, ' Itiw.
Full and Spring

KUtkim) lnl<>t, Vsnc. Id.
KlaiikMh Inl-'t „

N.i><|Nirt« Iiilrt ,,

Ou-<>ii-Kinii)i Inl.-l,,
Kyii<|uot 8>)iiiiil ,,
KM(xTitnxa Itilttt „
Niu:hi(tlitz liil't ,,
NiKitki* Soutiii ,,

IUr< lay Siniml

(.'layotguut Sound

if.ir.

.1lai),a,

II.
li
Vi

\i
12
12
12

12
12
12
12

TnkiiHh HarlKiur, Sniii)i>

Itilut

FitJiliiijfh Sound, SchooiuT

Itetrxnt

„ Niirnti Hmboiir . .

,, Wfli'ome lliirli'iuri

Fi.thtT (Imnrnd, Vori .lohnj

&l> !i«>iK)iIitt li.'iy, l>)«niii|

l'j\«»(«K>« !

Kviiiiiii|>t lUrlxmr ;

I'urt KUkuiicy, MiII)Nkiil(|

Sound

Finl«y*un ('haul., Nowmli

C'hjvw

„ Kl''iiii'»<j I'lwsugi I

Il.dnieii \Uy

( 41^; 111. in AiK'hiirat^i) ....

I.OWU Itlll't I

KiowiiiiKKi't liilt't, (/rrti-J

villi' Ctiitiiiii'I I

K<lrvi)'a«wic»). Uifufff Hhv!
< •l{denC'hai>lKd,.\l(>hiil!a\
M''Uitk-(;»Uaib, I'lmthiiiii

Sound

I'nrlii CAnatcral and

StrphfiiK

QlH«ii»M<t Au(.'huni^>' ....

I'url StmiMKMi

Nam lUy

OlNMrTnlury Inlet

I'urlUnd Iiili'l.

8ia»t

Ik'hririK Uuy ....

!')« Kl«*ie(*

I'urt ('4utlii»''r«. , , ,
r.trt Ckiahaiii ....

Utpe i(odlii»utl' I

bkidcKi'^AJ Inivt, Uui't'iij
Cbarlotto laiandu i

• The tid' « at Siika are
JIfrt, IHtiO, «Uli>i thHt thf

Tlkr, tI.M.i>. UtiVUittHlull, 1

10 Ivut.

12
12

!(»

1.'

Jl>

;ii)

12 »0

3t)

;io

.•iO

U 33

»0

1.'.

I KT.
12

I 12
' 12
t 12
I 12
i 12
' 12

12
, 12

S|>rin}{«

40
flO
1.5
15
23
2.')
42
45

li-

;)o

jll'ort KiiiK-r, a Ch.ir. lU. 1

I AnHdyr l{iiy !)

.|.'<t. Iviwrciice H

miiMMl-nuwn Hay (i

|l( i<dovnin lU y ti

||l'ort CUrtiiHi' I

( "hHmifwo Ixliind 4

iTuiia BiuTow 11

I i

I Kamehatka. '

'lAviitchn Iliiy .'( 30

Oulf of Tarlartf. '

j( 'hp«! Maria (Sii^lmlin Id.)

': So.4 uf OkhiiUk 2

Vmur Strnit 11

.lonijiiii-re Hay (K. coast) 10

lii I 'aHtrim lUv 10

1.1
II
l.s
17

L'O

I Ifarracoiita IlHrlioiir ....
Viiiw.i Hiiy, 'I'olioott hi . .

ijl'ort Miihiiol S-yinour .
NajMil'>i.n liond i W. cohmI )
.St. VLidiinir Hay

) l«i

:> 30

2 30
irr.

J a /III II.

Vanm (iuwa II irlioiir ....

I\ i^o«jnia

KiMhiki IhUii.Is I

|Sa^iUu>no-iira llarli<iur, .i
ilNaKUtaki Kay

Taaki', Hir:id<i ninia ....
I |(iot<- '.(lands, Ojika ikt»:

., < >li«uk:i . .1

iI'nu kiiiii, Korf* Stntit .

l.s

iVobuko j U

''^lalono^t)ki S

I •• ilikii siuia. ., 9

17 22'.MiyHd»u H«rl.,ur ' 2

17 -22 loki Isliind, Huino 3

23 ,j raurii^A , 1

23 I Nanao North llurliour . . 2

23- 27JNi».ifatn I 3

9!- ' ISudo Ulaiid, Vibinu ....; 5

. Tauffar Strait

illrf* i'lToii*) Strait

;jVVv,i> litlaiid, llakudtto ..
] ,, Kiid>«rin>j Hitrb.
!i ,, Akiahi May. . . .

I ,, Ntunoro

,, Not^ki- Itay

',»

12
Id

.•!2
50
41

I.')
44
40
15
30

Irt

It)

30
50
lu

30
37
35
3.1

Okuniri 3 3ii

rr.
13

\a\,

5
6-(i

5* Hi

a I

;(
;i

lot

.sj

8
4
1

2
6
6

atructed
rimi doe«
Sti2, tUo

by diuriwU inetjuality. Cotnmnndur I'earco, H.M S.
not exceed 7 ffot, hut on the authority of Oomninndcr
locul ('UoUt 8ay tbal tbc riso wiucliuiutt ia uf uii:(.h ua

1228

TUK TIDES OF THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN.

riaeo

Water.

Full an<l
Cbuig<<.

II. M.

3 3A

4 30
A 4A
A 10
«
A lA
A AO

5 20

6 40

7 30
n AO
(i 15

7
7 30
6 60

6
A AA

6
12

C 3

7 lA
7 30
^ 17
rt 14

12 7

nia<<.

Spring;*

ruc*.

Ili»rh
Wat.r.

Full and
Change

RiM.

SprinK'i

Mivuki"! n«v

rr. 1
31 S«to t'chi. f» vako Man.l

If. M.

12 IG
10 37
10 3rt

10 10
H 46

3 49

4 2A
4 21
7 11
4
6
4 4A

3 30

4 20

6 4A

G M

11 32

6 32
6 45

rr.

H
11

VaihmIk liiLrt.*>tir

„ Miwara

]nu-Ui-y« iM»ki

KnU' lira H»v

„ HantTJla

„ (J<>ir>i cima

114
11

Yokiiliiimtt .

•1 :

» i
6

„ lime Kima Huad..
Itlmtdt.

Vokiicka llxrtioiir

XHtiVAina lliiv

Sini'i-lrt llitrKiiir

6
A

Sanrlwiah txland*. Kxain-
kfkua Hav

Hhimuij**!

1 HlMlolulu. . . .

2 J 3
6

H
fl

Mat "VA Harloiir

Hfiinittf^ma tirn

< )waiii, iu>«lB>v Hay ....
1'nikami

fl l(l»n«tm»« Uland

A lilowll.iMi l«Un<l

Al jOilUrt lAKnda. Tarawa
iMfimhall Id*., i't.rt Khin

( ^(iftima

6
6

„ F.lton Atoll, ,

„ W.)ti«

(>u>olinn Idanda. Purt

Tana)>^, Kii < '-kannil ....
Yura-no-uchi

<)i»ki ll«y

Hiivtki k Nomi ilHrbuurx
1 ■ wNiiina

A MutaUnim

A llVk'V Ii.lan<lp>

8 — 9 II.^nM><* litliin(iiL K^iuan

3-4*
fl

2i
3

AlxiralKtl

■2

Inonin Ills., i'ort IJuvd ..

8cto r<-hi. Hi-iT' * KuU-
,, ( •'•aaka KiTfr, rntr

,, ,. ( it\

,, Narulo, Fukum . .
,. Avtiisitita I liar. (1

„ Ci/Jln IlailKiiir
(iil-chil InUnd-i, N4|iliii

Kiang iCi'fid

M<'Ui-o aima Inland*, I'ort

Haddiiiirtoii

2. MAfiM-TIf VARIATIOX.

Tbe accompanying illustrative din^rnm will l)c«t olucid.ito thi^ important
Rultjcct. I'd I'ollow all tlio (Ictiils of clinn^c in dinction and inti-nsity in the
magnetic ilenirnlH cnrDunti'red in a lon^; voyutfr. woulil lend into a far largiT
disciiHwion than would be compatible with the scojh" of thi.s wurk.

Itiit a due consideration of tlieae eswnti«l features of magnetism is of the
utmost im|K>rtance to the mife conduct of a Hhip, and the reoder is referred to
Mr. I'owiion'H " I'racticul Information." 'T tiie " Ailiniralty M.um.il." for tin
noccsftiiry in*trucliiin<» in the nianam'trit iii of bin coinpas.i, wlidher corr<i'tt.l
for local deviation or not, in the varied mai;netic ehnn};es through which lu'
will psKs in the long voyage to the field of our presint work.

The principal uuthoritr on this «uliji*ct ia the chart drawn up by Copt. F. J
Evann, US., lute hydrographer to the .Vdniir.'ilty. Thi'* i.n the result of the
discussion of on immmsc numWr of obf*crvuti»nn correeled for the numcroui*
sources of error, which »o often render the obcervntionn made on bourd ship »o
much at variance with the real variation. Since the \ .^t increaaeof iron »hij>«,
and the u»c uf iruu m wooden alups, tht-HC errors and the luibiUt}' to ihemhuvo

r. I HiM.
Iml Springi

91
II

"1
II

1 2?

J.'j

2 J .!

■H

'.'0

3-0

« important
I'-ity in the

I far larmr

II is of thr
rtfcrrcd to
:il,"' for th.
r rorrtctr.l

which he

I'npt. F. J
mlt of the
niiincnitjs
ini thip ''o
iron »hijM,
llit-m liurc

NO ■ 'o

' f*i -r ~^ < ■ ••Liidfon*!?/ / '■ t

Air >T~" .^ '•' »

c A u cru /^N^ /»• . I ** •

.V-^

rt-BMSHKn m- r hi.ahrik wukkt stiu:kt. i...nuon.

A, K'jiiUi\v tVcit.

'•^.

.ONDON.

•'•W ofuf />/i«7Krfi ■

■B

;

1
1

MAONETIC VARIATION-ICE.

1229

toatly incrranotl, as is well known. The etUblishmcnt, therefore, of these
tnngnetic meridiaiut is a most imfmrtant boon tu the sailor.

'Hio isotonic Ittus, or thoAC ik[Hm which the variation ia of the same amount,
are giren on the illuNtrntivo diagram, nnd are generally as accurate iis the
ordinary Nliip'H rompUHN will show it when at sco; at all events sufficiently
oxoct for the purjxweH of nnvij^iition, and they will moreover serve to diiiw
attentiim to any unsuM|K>cted change in the npagnctifim of the ship, nhould »ueh
change occur, and besides afford the sailor Home information when observations
cannot be had.

On this diiignim is inserted the omount of annual change, or the xtruhir
rariation, at present going on in different parts. The chart )>cing adapted to
the epoch of iHSfi, multiplying the time elapsed between this date and any
future year by the (luuntity of increase or decreuac given, will give the amount
of variation for that time.

3. ICE.

Floating ice has little or no influence upon the navigation of the North
Pacific Ocean, its northern border being practically always free from ice,
except possibly a rare fragment formed in some narrow pu.s8agc or dril'teil
Houth by some severe winter gale. In the Okhotsk and Ikhring Seas, how-
ever, ice is prevalent in winter as the remarks on pp. 742 and 684, and the
following ol)«ervation.s by M. W. II. Dall, show.

So far as the Okhotsk Sou and the narrow channels leading to it arc con-
eerne<I, they may bo said to be praeticolly closed by ice in winter, such parts
of them as are not actually frozen over being encumbered with drifti:<u; cakes
or largo fields of ice.

Bering .Sea is partially obstructrd by ice in winter, and partly free from it,
its southern portion along the Aleutians being rarely, if ever, troubled hy ice.
The southern limit of the ico varies considerably with the partirular ^jcason
and the direction of the prevailing winds ; it np^R'ars to extend froir. a point
in about lat. S?' on -Miaska IVniusulo, curving to the northward and westward
toward the Pribilolf Islands, and generally passing at lea.st a degree to the
North from them ; then, curving again to the .•♦outhward, it gi lUMully presents
a broad ton^^ue in about long. 174", often reaching to the vicinity of lat. i')t'>',
and then extending in an irregular line westward, usually between lat. 5(>'
and 58^, towar<l the coast of Kamchatka, oil' which it forms a belt lo to 30
miles in width, which is often entirely dissipated for short periods by westerly
winds.

In May and June the barrier first becomes penetrable in the western portion
of Hering Sea in the vicinity of Cajn; Nuvarin. The frozA-n surface is rotten all
over the sea by the end of May, and the whalers pubh boldly into the broken

12S0

nKNSITY, TKMrF.RATT'UK, PKITII. VJC.

•luAhy ie«. The ioo alwiiy* npent Wcflt of St. Ijawrrnco IsUnd before it !a
n|ien Fjut of the islnnd, and clean out from Bering Strait iu July.

Ttio season of navigation for Bering Sea nnd the Aleutianit may be ajtjirox-
inutely placed between April 10 aad October 20.

II. -DENSITY. n-^MPKRATUUK. DEITH, KTC, OK THE OCEAN.

The topic* which will bo briefly nlludcd to in this section, are rather sub-
ject* of interest to the gi'nernl enquirer, than directly useful to the niariiier
in his vocalioi.. They oru much more fully discui»»e<l in the '* North Atlantic
Memoir," and the *' South Atlantic Directory," to which the reaiirr is referred.
Further infurmaiion will bo fuuud in the authorities lueatiuuvd there, and in
the notes b<>l»w.

1 DKNSITY.

The source of the salts existing in sea-water is rock-sukitancc which has
been disintegnUed and decompo»eil by atmospheric influences. The sululile
components or products washed out by the rain, and coUeeteil in the streams
and riTcrs, ar« eveittuallr poured into the sea. Here the water is subjected to
the action of the Kun and winds, which causes it to vvap<irate, leaving the sidts
behind. A great ({uantity of the vapour so formed is carried inland, and con-
densed on the mountains, washing out the ruck and taking up a fresh chargtj
of solid matter which it brings down into the sea. Although the ocean is thus
the rcceptarle of the drainage of all the land, it is by no means uniform in salt-
nesH. the viiriatioiiN being due to the different meteorological conditions which
obtain in the ('itTirt-nt Kones of the earth.

In the racitic Ocean the dlHtribution of the surface salinity differs con-
siderably from that in the Atlantic. In the I'acitic only the southern coneen-
trntion area is well marked ; in the northern part of the oceau the variations in
salinity are slight, and the mean sultut^>«s low. In no jM/t of the North I'acitic
was the specific gravity oljiwrvi^l ul>ove 1 02t>5, while in the southern part, in
the rt*gion of the trade wind, it exceeds 1(1270, and the ineun s|M<eitie gravity
is com}>aratively high. The maxiinuni in the North I'acitic is rO'i(>'44 in lat.
30" 22 N., and iu the South it is 1 Oi71U in ID' 8. near the Society InlaixU.
The whole of the Soutliern Ocean, bi-lwecn 40* S. and the e*lge of the ice,
appears to have a very uniform Kurfacc specific gravity of about lUiJU, that
of the bottom watrr of l\ie Pacific being from 1 0257 tii I 0251). •

Mr. Buchanan cuncludes that, as a general rule, both in tlic Atlantic and

• Ses s Paper " ( )n tbs Dikthtotion of Halt in tho Ocuaa," by J. Y. BuchsnMi, CbetDUt
in the Ck>tllm<irr Kxp'JitJoii, priuUnl in the " l*roc«.'«din(,ii of lh« Uoyal Ui-oji^raphical
Sociutjr," vol. xzi , pp. 266—257, snd in tbu Juurual uf th« samv 8<jcivt>', vuL xivii., 1877,

pp. 7 J -»0.

TF.MrERATT'nR.

12.11

rnclfic Ocrnns. iH-twoen 40" N. nnd 40* 8., thcsprcifir gravity (salt) in greatest
at or ncur the surface, nn«l dccrcMM moro or Icm regularly until a minimum i»
ir.K'licil, gou.ially 400 fnthomn from the Hurface, whence there is a mIow rise,
th«> iMittoni walff IwiiifT Nlightly heavier.

2. TKMI'KRATI'RE.

Tlio tomporaturr of the ooonn depondn miiinly on throe ronditionn — latitude
current*, and nonrnm. Owing t(»the une(iunl cxjxmuroof the different purtions
of the spherical surface of our planet to the rays of the sun, the amount of
solor heat received gradually tlinunishcs from a maximum between the tropics
to a minimum in the jK)Iar regions. Wo find, in conseijuencc, that the tem-
perature of the surface-layer of the ocean decreases as we proceed from the
Iv|uator towards the I'olcs, slowly at first, between the tropics, more rapidly
in the teiiijM'rate rones, until it falls to zero, and even below zero, before wc
reach the Arctic and Antarctic Circles.

The Sim in his ai)parent pro^;ress from tropic to tropic draws the whole
sysUm of terrestrial, including atmospheric, temixTaturcs after him from one
hemisphere to the other ; but the water of the ocean, alworbing hcot much
more slowly and retaining it much longer than the atmosphere, is less subject
than the latter to those estremes of temperature caused by the change of the
Bi'asons. A range of 10' F., reduced to a few degrees between the tropics
and within the polar circles, measures the ditference l)etween the mean tem-
perature of the surface-layer in the warmest and coldest months of the year. —
Atr. J. J. IfyU.

The sea plays a verj" important part in that combination of the meteorolo-
gical phentmiena of o place or country which we call climate. It must be rc-
gardtnl as the great reservoir from wiiich the atmospheric water chiefly rises
to form clouds nnd rain, but into which oil the downfall is again finally col-
lected. Hut with the wafer there is also collected a great part of the heat
which the land had received by insolation, and it is stored up for colder
s<'asons nnd clinuitcs, ami carried to them by currents and winds. — I'ro/essor
J. J. Itrin.

The whole mass of the water of the ocean may be considered as divided into
two layers, the upiM-r comparatively superficial nnd rapidly cooling from the
surface dowMwanls, the lower of incomparably greater amount, extending to
tlie IhmI of the (Mean, and of nearly tlie same tempernture throughout. The
iKtttoin-wnter of the rarific. like that of the Atlantic, is doubtless on extremely
slow indraught from the AnUirctic seas.*

• "Proceedings of the Royal Ocogmphioal Society," vol. xs., 187(5, p. 410; see also lectare
bv Dr. Csrp«nti<r " On the Temperature of the Det-p-Sea Bottom," in the "rroceoiiings of
tie Koysl (iLogrsphicftl Sodity," vol. xxi., 1877, p. 314, Ac; tbo Heports from the officers

'1H

12.H

nKNSITY. TrMrEnATt'RP.. DKI'TII. KTf.

From 40" N. U) 40^ 8. (in tho Pacific Ocean) the toinjierature of the l.ftOO.
fnthoma line romain« the tamo (34' to S4' F.V Hrlow that line the wntor ia
•lightly cohler in tho Sou.'i than in the North I'arific ; while al)ove that lini-,
to the 'JIM). fathoms Imo. the water ir cohh'r in the North than in the South
l*Hoitic. Hut though tho b«)ttom-w«tor in roiJer in tho Houth than in the North
rnrifio. jot, from the much (jronter depth of tho Inttor, t!io Ixnly of water thrro
whotte tomiieruture i» beluw 35", ia raatly (freator than in tho forwier, no exooiw
averaging 7A0 fathoms. An in the Atlantic, ao in tho Pacitic, wo find that tho
wutor at tho bottom in tho wo»toni portion i» oolilor than that of the eastern,
wiiii'h in cauM'd liy the revolution of iho earth trending tho noithorly-Huwing
cuirenttothe we»twnr<l *

The hjgheat •urfaeo It-mperature found in the Pacific Ocean, during tho
erui»o of H MS ChalUn^tr, was 84 in lat. 2" 3;i S , long. I H I K . off the
North coa»t «>f Now (iiiinon. Thin wn« on Nfiirch I*t, lR7;j. 'I'lio Iowei>t
nurfaoo tom|>ernturo w^w ■>'! '>, on ()'l)bor 'i.Hh, IM".'). in lat. 3'.>-' Ifi S., long.
\1A' 7' W., n< nrly midway l)otwoen Ntw Zealand and tho coast «)f Chile.

I- urthrr rt>mark!« on the temi>oraturo of various part-* «if the NurtJi PuciHo
Ocean will be found in the Chapter relating to the Current*.

a. DKITII. .

It ia only within tho last few year* that any neriou* attempts have Won made
\ic\ explore tho depths of the Pacific Ocean. Of the pnnri]>al exjH-ditions for
this pur|H)<*e may b«' mentioned those of the l*.S. Mhi|M Tutrarora and Alaska ;
H.M. nhip* ('/utJUngrr anil .4!ert, and tho steamer Daria , and the Cerman
war-vessel (''nzrlU. Kut notwithslanding the numerotiM soundings taken from
theae voaseU, liefore we can form on accurate ich-a of the conformation of tl>o
bed of the Pacific Oeonn, many more obaervations are noceasary.

I>r. Petormanti ha« endeavoured, by uniting all the available ohanrvatiooa,
to form a chart of the be<l of the Pacific, by which it would ap|>e«r tliat it ia
divided into two kcgions by an arc of a groat circle joining San Franciaco and
the Koat co*>t of Now Zi>al(ind. Tlic region Ka*t of this line secma ta be
moderately ever, with depths of between 2.000 and 3,000 futhoma. Tho
western region, on tKo contrary, has a number of deep doprot*sionii, and here ft
greater depth has been found than ia uiiy other part of the world. f

of the Ch^lmftr Kx^wdiUi'U ; aiid th«* ■' ChsrU rk«wiiiK thu Hi.rface Trni|M'ratur« uf ihe
Aihntir, Indi&n, and Pacific < »o<«nt," { uhliihej by tJte Authority of tha Motourulogiiitl
Council, IHHI.

• " Log F^it4T« from th«> CKtiUiigtr," )»y Lord (ioorKv Caropln 11, IM76, pp. 3tf4, *c. Soo,
also, "TbsUau," \<y i. J. Wild, nMtitiintd in (he notfl on p. Vlui , and "Notes by a
h«tur«li«t on the rhallmyrr," l.y H. N Mu«.:li<), M.A., F.KS.

t " L'Anni-. {i<'-..»frtpJ»iqu.-," I'ari*, ISTD, pp. 117— UO; jutd r«it«irmaaa's "(i«i>gra«
phi«che MilthciluDgtto," Gotha, April, IM77.

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DEPin.

1233

In the Xorth Pacific the Tuscarora attained the greatest flcpth yet found,
4,055 fathoms, or over 5^ statute miles, in lat. H' 55 N., long. 152° 30' E., to
tlie S.K, of Urup Island, one of the Kurilc Islands. The greatest depth found
by the ChalUy>yer was 4,575 falhoniH, in lat. IT 24' N., long. 143" 16' E., to
tho R.W. of the Mariana or Ladrone Islands; the bottom was composed of red
clay, with a thick top layer of pumice and manganese ; the temperature being
33^-9. The greatest depth found in the South Pacific was 2,7JO fathom.s, in
lat. 7" 25' S., Icmg. 152° 15' W., to tho S.i;. of SUirbuck and Maiden Islands.
With a heavy sounding weight it takes about 1 J hour for the line to reach the
bottom in a depth of 4,500 fathoms, and 35 minutes in 2,500 iuthoms.

The pressure exerted by the water at great depths is rnormou.t. and almost
beyond comprehension, amounting roughly to a ton on the square inch for
cverv 1,000 fathoms. Marine animals no doubt ea-sily accommodate them-
selves to these enormous pressures. Their tissues biung entirely permeated by
fluids, the pressure has little or no effect upon them. No sun-light penetrates
the deep sea ; probably all is dark below 200 fathoms. The waters of the
deep sea being thus everywhere dark, and always cold, the conditions of life
in ihcin are the same all over the world.- .Vr. //. X. MoseLfj.

From temperature observations <m board II. M.S. ("hallenyer, the space be-
tween the N.K. coast of Australia and New Caledonia, New Ileljrides, Solomon
Islands, and New Guinea, appears to be surrounded by a bank, not exceeding
1,300 fathoms in depth, the temperature within this ana at a depth of 2,GoO
fathoms Ix-'iiig 35\ or the same as at a di-pth of 1,300 fathoms.

Another similar area, between New (iuinca ajid the South part of Japan,
appears to be surrounded by a bank of 1,500 fathoms. Mr. I. I. Wyld says
this deep basin might appropriately be called the " Sea of Magallanes," after
the discoverer of tho I^idrone and I'liilipi)ine Islands, and in honour of the
first European who cros.'-ed the Pacific Ocean. One of the most prominent
features of this sea is the extensive siu-face-stratum of warm water, 84^ to
77'' F., from 7(» to 100 fathoms thick.

Between the Sandwich Islands and Tahiti, and in a southerly direction from
Tahiti to 40 8., Professor W. Thomson tleseribcj* the bottom as consisting
ni.ainlv of red clay, except around volcanic islands, where it is chiefly composed
of volcanic dt'bris ond shore-mud. In nearly all the soundings manganese was
found. In tlcpths exceeding 2,000 fathoms, in other parts of the ocean, tho
bottom appeared to be principally red eluy, and occiisionally gray ooze.

The accompanying diagram is taken from Dr. TeUTmann's chart, previously
mentione«l, but it is necessarily very imperfect, from the comijuiativoly small
uumber of •oundinga taken iu this vast area.

Wlhi

North PaciAc-

i s

{ 12.14 )

CITAITKK XVIir.

PASSA(iKS.

Fhom whnt hM IxH-n »ai(l i.f the mcto<Molofry of the North Pacific, it will l)f
iuaiuli>»t thai its iia»inHti<>n ij« Himplc anil «'niiy in cvrry part, with the impor-
t-int «>x<-t'pti<ins of thofe placiit lyi»^ in the In-lt of caini', 5».(\, c«p««oi.TlIv the
Wax of I'anamH. A \oyagi" urn>«» the Pnoific i«t curritHl ou without difficulty,
ewinj; cantward in the «'MrJ»-tropical portion inlluonceil by the anti-tmdc wiiwl,
and to the wfwtwaril within the area of the N.I',, trade wind. This ajiplirs to
the eai'teni portion of tiie ocean. an<l whatever variation!* from a diroet courte
on the weni<-rn side may lie nccownry, arc duo to the »hlftt^.^: inontioou't of the
China and other Asiatic c«>«-Ht«. These monsoonH, and their influences on
n.iri|{ation. are de«rril>e<l >n our Directory for the Indian Owan, IMHi. pp, 2H
to 6/), ancnhp(! in thi«M' work<>, although
they fonu the wetttern Ixiundary of tUc i'acitic, the rt^ader i» referred to them
for the ueeejHiary information.

One Buhject relating to orer-nea navigation in such exten«ive oee.tnn M the
Tacific. ^■r^•at circle suiliii}.^, i« very important, lu it is under the>M" circuiuitttncea
llittt the greatest navinjj of difstance \« etfect«»d, hy the choice of »uch routes or
thoae approximating to "l? »horte»l di.«tan<-e in angular mca-^urtsuenl. It will
not be nece«»ary further to allude u> the «uhj«'ct here, a« it has !x»en diLtted on
in our volume on the .South Pacific ami in other work* »(M?oiany dcvotod to
mathematical tfco^jraphy. Some of the j^reat circle tracks are »h<>wn on ihe
adjoining diagram, and these must suffice.

']he foliowijig note* on ihie general tracks acroM the North Pacific arc de-
rive<l from various aourcea as <pioted, and aUo from the valuahle wurk hy
M. F. I.AbnM*M\* Some additional uiformatioa will be found in the Bouth
Pacific DirecUiry.

* In 187^, the I*nit<^l 8t«tM llTdrrtfrniphic (»ffle« ptibU^hed a tr«n»Utioa of thi* work
by Lieut J. W Milier, l" tS.S., enliUwi "The NavigaUon of the Taciftc Ocean, China
ttvan, kt."

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PASSAOKS.

1235

" T S I

>t'-'

Capk IIobn to Camfohn^a and Uritihh CoMMniA.

In tho I'lirUic. lu in Uic Atlantic Ocuan, the route from South to Nerth, or
Tier TcmA. by croii«in(( the different btllH of winds and adms, reijuirt-s much
ron^idrratioD a* to thr liost point* for crowing the various parallels of latitude
■ud the Kquntor. The enterinf? or lenvinj? one zone at the niont advantajjoous
|)oint hw ft wry y:,x>fi\. intliience im the upt'ed and safely of the hhip throuj^h the
rest. TherijfoiT this nteridioiial voyage munt be considered with reference to
the eountries l>oyond the scope i»f this work. W hat h;i» been jireviously vaid
on the winiU and current* will be ncce8!»ary l<» undcriitand the requirements of
this section.

To CapUiin Maurr, and also »o the Dutch Meteorological lastitute, under
Captains Janacn and Van (iough, we owe very much for their lucid discus-
sions and long series of examples from which a corr«ct decision may be arrived
at. Wo therefore (luot* the words of the former, but omit the tables upon
which the couclu.sions are ha.sed. They are very interesting, but to insert them
would unduly enlarge this work.

The Califomiu-bound vessels should aim to enter the S.F.. trade-wind region
of the Pacific as far to the West, provided they keep on the eastern side say of
IIK' W., as they well can; they should not ti-^ht with head wimls to iiiako
westing, nor shoulil they turn much from the direct course when the winds are
fair. Hut when wiiuis are dead ahead, stand otl to the woHlward, especially if
you b« South of the trade-wind region. Having crossed the parallels of 35" S.,
and taken the trades, the navigivtor, with the wind ijuartvring and all sails
drawing, should now make the best of his way to the I^juator, aiming to cross
it In'twixn I'l.'i"' and WO", according to the season of the year, and the direc-
tions hereiuafrcr given.

I wish hert to enll the ottentiim of navigator* to the winds they are to ex-
pect l)otween the parallel of 50'' S., io the Pacific, aud the Kquator csjiecially,
a.s it regnrds their reliability.

'Die dinUnce from the fairway of St. Rocpic (lat. 1" S.) to the parallel of
6')" S., in the Atlantic, is about i,'.H)0 miles, the average time ao days, aud the
mean daily run is about llM) miles.

The distance fron» 50-' S., in the Pacific, to the usual crossing-place on the
line— California track— is about 3,300 miles, the average time -111 days, aud
tho mean daily run l;i- miles.

The winds b<«tw»»en 60-^ S. and the Kquator are much more strong, steaxly,
ami reliable, as the barometer would lead us to expect, on the Pacific, than
thev »r« on the Atlantic side of the continent; tho ratio between them in these
resi">ccU is greaU'r than 2,900 to 3,300, for it is easier to make 3,300 miles with
them in the one ocenn than it is 2,000 in the otli^r.

Au exammaUuu of the mcuu monthly passages from crosdiug to crossing «ill

lai^A

PASSAORS.

iilwi show n prentPT roptilarity. nnpljing thereby mnrr atnblc wiiuU. The
grratrat nionihly nvirnj^e on the F.«tt liiU it 311 days in .\u^u»t; on the
Wett "27 '.> in May, oxtrcnu' diffrrcncr, l\ '2 dny» ; the (frrntMt monthly n^eru^o
on the W«dt side bciug 37'*J days ; the leiut '2'i'i duys ; the witretnu diHuicncu
is 5-7 days.

Hetweon the Kquntor and 10'' or 112'' N., ncrording to the seiuon of the year,
the C'aiifonua-hound nari^ntor may ci|)ect to lose the S.K , and to get the
N.K. trade winds.

Ht will find theite last nearer th« Kijuntor in January, Fobruary, and March ;
but in July, August, and September, ho will sometini<>« find himself to thu
North of the parallel of lo" N. befnru he getJ* fiiir'y into the N K. trades. And
Mtnetimes, ri»|wi>iiilly in summer and full, he will not m-t them tit all, unless ho
keeps well out to the West. Having them, he should tteer n goinl rup-full ut
least, aiming, of eounw, to cross the parullcl of 20" N., in about IJ.'i' W., or
nither not to the lUwt of that, particularly fnm Juno to November. Ilia course,
after erossing *iO- N., is nc cesaarily to the northward and westward, until hu
hvnn the N.K. trades. He should aim to reiirh the latitude of his port with-
out goiof; to the Wwt of Ml) W . if hr (an help it, or without upprouhiiig
nenrcr than 2.^U or 3(K) miles to the laml, until ho p.tiiKe* out of thu belt of the
N.K. trades, and gets luto the varinhles, the prevailing direction of which i«

WO»4t(TlT.

'• Where •hull we tnVe the S K. nnd los<' the N.E. trmles on the jm-ssngo t*)
Cnlifiirnia ?" im nn important •|w<!«tioii for a navigator to have answered, who is
striving for a short pjissa^f on the West coast of South America. From the
parallel of Cajie Horn uj) to tha belt of light winds and calms, through which
you generally pn«« before getting into the SI",, trades, the prevailing winds orw
wexteily wind-, h iving northing more freijueiilly than southing in them.

Keiwien the N.W. (-oa^l and the meridian of I'iu W., from .'<n to 10 N.,
the prevailing dir(>ctinii of the wind in summer and fill ist from thu northward
and westward, vherea'-, to the Weht of 130^, and between the aiimc pamllels,
the N.K. traiiein ire the j)revailing winds of thcae two seasons. There is u
marked dilferpi.ee in the 'iireetiun (»f the wimN on the opposite nides of the
meridian of l.'JO^ \S in the North I'aeitie. The cau»e of this dilFerenco has
l>een eomplett ly unmasked by the reseiirehes connected with tliesu charts.
The agent which produces it hss itji seat in the arid plains of Nt w Mexico,
Northern Texan, and the regions round about. At thi* season of the y« .ir the
pre\ailing wind- in th<- we»tern part of the (iulf of Mexico Jire fruia the south-
ward nnd ea>tward ; that ix, towards the great centre of rarefaction. At this
season of the year, t<H), the prevailing winds in the Pacific, off the coasts of
Cenlml America, are from the southward, and olso towards the same centie of
heated plains nnd ascending columns of air; and we hare seen thut off the
coahls of < alifornia, Ixlween the parnlleU of 3.r and ^•> N., the jirevailing
wiiidK of this «vu»on are from the noi thwitrd aud westward ; also towards thia

CAPK IIOUN TO CALIKOUNIA. ICTC.

1237

jpcnt inlantl "blow hole." In it is seated a moDHoon a^'^nt, whose influence
is felt for more tlmii a thousand iniloit out to sea, driiwuin back tlio N.E. trades
of the I'ncific, and converliii({ them into a southwardly monsoon for half u
year; deflictinj? the N.K. trades of ihii (julf of Mixicu, a id converting theui
into a south-onsterly monsoon during the same season, and so intluencing thu
prevailing S.W. winds off our N.W. I'acitic coast that they, too, are alniost
mndi ui tduw a .iorth-westorly monsoon.

Tin rcforc Tcssels bound t<> San Kraucihco should not, unless forced by adverse
winiU, go any farther beyond the mcriiliau of 130' \V. than they can help.
Supposing that vessels generally will be able to reaeh 30^ N. without crossing
thu merulian of 130" VV., tlic distance per great circle from (ape lloru to ita
point of intersection with that parallel is about fi.m < miles.

And supposing, luortover, that (alifornia-bouad vessels will generally, after
doubling Cape Horn, be able to cross the parallel of 50 6., between iLc meri-
dians of MO' and lUo W'., their shortest di^laaice in miles thence to 30" N'., at
ib« intersection with thu meridian of I'M' W., would be to cross 40' S. in about
loo \V. ; uo S. iu about lul ; 20' S. in about lU'J ; the Equator in about
117 W. ; find 30 N. in about 130 W. (l-C) if yo>i can;. Hy crossing the
line 10^ farlhei to the I)a»t, or 10 f.irlher to the West of 117 . the great circle
distance from t ipe Horn to the intersecliou of 30^ N. with 130" W., will bo
increased only about loO miles.

Navigators appear to think that the turning point on a California voyage is
the place of crossing the Kijuator in the r.ieific. Hu* 'he crossing which may
give thu sliorl.'^t run thence to ('alifmiua may not be the crossing which it is
most easy to ni.iko from the United States or Europe , and it is my wish to
give iu these sailing directions the routes which, on the average, u ill afford
the shortest passage lo vessels that have doubled f'ape Horn : and then, by
conipariiig the two, wo may be able to lay down the best route fruni Cape
Horn to California.

lliere are 87 crossings between 1 1 o' and 120 W., which have been nnnlysed.
rhey give the shorte.'^t average time to Sun Francisco ; their average, however,
is only l(j hours (OO day) less than the average from the crossing between llo^
and 11.^', and the average to the latter crossing from ,00 S. is » hours (0-3
day) shorter than the average to the former crossing. Hence wc conclude from
total of 1 11 passages from the line, of US to the line, that the average passage
from 50' S. to San Francisco is 53-5 days via the crossing Iwtweea 115' and
riO-" W., and .'i;i H days \il the crossing betw.-en 110' and 115'. Tims, in the
long run, the ciossini.' between 1 1.0 and I'JO gives the best average, but is iMt
BO much fre.juented as that between 110 and 115 , the numbers being respec-
tively 103 and 2'JO.

A long series of tables derived from the Toyagcs quoted, is given by Capt.
Maury iu elucidation of the subject, which are very interesting. We give some
of his concluding remarks on the discussion of these ubles.

-I

12.1(1

''AS.sa(;es

" aplK-an. from the mi.«»,

.«. the .v,.,r round. Uu, day, Uh T ' '''*''"*'«^ »'<'«W'^n 10A»

The. .^. tl7 ;"" ■''' "'•" " ''"■ •°"'"

'f»*cia iLut Mil ,n the »Di;.„, 1 *">■■•

< the
ami
t»ce.
ntij

PAPr. noUN TO CALIFORNIA. I'.TC.

\'2V.t

ten Any* lonp t •nan ihi*r which nail at other woituiit, the RpritiK iivcragr bvin^f
1117 agaiiiKt 1'^? dnyn fur the rent of the ycitr.

The avernifc rroHninn place of 'lO" 8., in the I'ucific, in ah<iut R2" W. Winds
are Mxnetinu-N, though not oftrii, fair for making wi>«ting on the polar nide of
At)'' S. NVhni they aro no, tho xkilful niiviffator will not fail to take ndrmiUiije
of thrm to gain a mill more westrrly rroniting of thin paralli'l.

In urging u|v)a Cuiifornia-lKxind vofMwJrt the importance of making westing
alM)ut the parallel of '>()'' S., I do not mean that they should expose themselves
til heavy weather, or contend against udvente eirrunrntaiices. 1 simply mean
that if a Te«»el, after dutibling the ('aj>e. can uteer a W.N.W. course as well as
a N.\V.,or a N.W. aa well aa a N.N.W., or a N.N.W. as well m a North
courae, that she should on all such occasions give preference to the course that
has miMtt wexting in it, provided that she docs not cross 50 H. to the West of
100 or thcreahoutjt, nor ;l') H. to the westward of 111 , nor enter the S.K.
trade-wind ri'gion to tlie Went of the last-named meridian. Tliis is the western
route. It is so called because it recpiires you to keep an far West, within certJiin
limiLi, us you well may without running broad olT to make westing, ur without
fighting with head winds, or baffling winds, or calms, to get West.

The west»'ri\ ri>ute from (^ijk! lioru to California is, aa a route, to be preferred
by all vessels at all seasons.

The farther from the land, tho more regular and steady the wind, may be
safely taken as a general rul«.

Capt. Sherartl ()»l>orn, Il.N., says: — Supposing a vc.s»el bound to San Bias
f.i Ma/Jitlan, on the western coast of Mexico, and running before the southerly
gale, which almimt constantly blows along the shores of South America, .she
«>ught to sha]H' a course so a.n to cross the K<(uator in about l>8' or O'J-' W., so
that, when she gets the 'S.K. trade, she will be at least G*" or 7" to the ea.st-
ward of the meridian of her port, and have, at the same time, a suflRcient offing
from the (iaiapagos Islands to avoid their currents and variable winds.

We croKseil in long. lOJ W., having been recommended to do so by some
old merchants at Valparaiso, and were conne<iuently, although a remarkably
fast-sailing ship, a lamentably long time in making the distance. Several
days' log of the ship shows as follows: — March 'J llh, 1818, San Bias, ri72
miles distant ; 'J.')th, r.4t; miles distant; I2t)th, r^ol miles distant. Our t;ack
led us to be exactly in the same loiii^itude as our port ; when we got the trade,
and it hanging well to the northward, we were constantly increasing our dis-
tance until ill the latitude of Sun Hlas, when an inshore tack of course shortened
it. Hut by the course I have recommended, the tirst of the N.I'', trades will
drive the vessel into the meridian of her port, and she will thus daily decrease
her disuince.

Care must be taken when standing in for the land not to go to leeward of
San lUns, as there is u strong southerly current along tho coast, especially otl"
Cape Corrientcs.

• 11
I

\i\

liijo

PASSAriES.

Voiwcli" bound to Acnpulcn, Istapn. or IJonlcjo, shonUl crnsn ihc F.quntor
more to the cnntwanl. It will Ik> »«lvantaj^pnu« to crow it biiw>'on bti uml
J»S W. if bouml for one of the enttlorn p»»rt« of the Moxicuu coast, or about
as-' W. if Iniund to one of the western.

A vcwrl mnkinft the pAJwajfonnorthwnnl from Snn Plnn hml better mrike nn
inshore tnek. \iiitil she rench("< the lutitiule of, or nights ('a])e Sun Lucoii, ns
she will tht-re i;et the tnie wind, w liii'h blow » rtimoxi without intermiwiitin alon;r
the lino of ron^t from t!ie northward. A Went, or may \tc Smtlh of Wcit
course, will only Ih' first made gfHi<i, but as the ntVmg is obuuned. the wind
will be found to veiT n little to the eastward However, it will always be the
objcet to make hemlway, ntnl jjet otit of the tropic without any icf lenee to
the lon(;itu<ie. as a strong N W winil will sr«iii. in lat. '.'■') or 2s \ run oti iho
ili'tanee. provided you have nulfieienl northing.

The attempt to In-at up inshore amounts to jMrfeet folly, if it tloes tiot de-
serve a worse name, d stiong ctirrcnl accompanying tlic w ind ; and the latter
must \h- taken into concideration. when running into your port willi westerly
winds

Should a vessel be Iwiund to California direct. I would eros^< the I'.ijtiator in
the Tucific Ocean »n .ibout long. 100 W. ; ero'.M tiie N K trade with a top-
mast stud<iing-sftil set, and thu< pa.-w into the limit of the westerly winds, nlK)ut
.'JtiO miles to windward of the .-^pudwich Islands; and once in them, take good
care i..> keep to the nortliward of my port, for, a« you approach the shore, iho
wind will draw round North, and the current ti> the southward increase.

^iin Friiuri.tco to Vitpe Ilnrn. — First procj-ed as on the voyiigo to Callao
(see pnge l-o.r. and after st^mding well full on the port taek, through llie S.K.
trade, iitetT South until the region of westerly winds is readied, between W"'
and 10 .S. Then Ix'ar nwoy round Cijie Horn "U a gri at circle rmite.

These remarks, and the illustrative chart of the pa.s.sagcs, will serve to eluci-
date these routes. Vess«ds have also reache<l California fr-mi Kuroj>c ijuickly
bv way of the Tape of (imxl Hope and Australia, as shuwn hereafter.

Mr. I)avid»<m, I'.S.N., in his excellent direetiims for the western coast of
the I'nitrd States, gives the following statistics of the voyages m.ide to and
from San Francisco, which will hv interesting ; hut from the improvcnunt in
the sailing powers of shijMi of late years, the average duration of the voyage*
has become corresjxmdingly shortenetl.

The nunil>er of clippers arriving at Snn Francisco from New York during
the 10 years, lH,iO Xo I'^.V.t, was fir,,), and the average length of the passage!
was IS.').? days. In the same years 373 arrived from li<Mluu, and the average
passage was 13>'i days.

In 1H50 six clipjKTs arrived from N» w York averaging only 115 days; iho
Sea U'tlch being rejHjrttnl at ".'7 dajs, but her actual pjissage was lOl. The
av( rage jMissagt "f all Anarieun vi».seU that arrivid horn Atlantic ports Wiis
IsT dj\s

•^"^i"

111

<IU

CAPE nOEN TO CALU'dHMA, Kir. ijji

In 1851 only two c')ippcr» made tiic piwsnge in lens thtm 100 duys-tlic
Surprite iu OC), and tl>e Flyini} Cloud, in 90, both from New York,

In 1852 the /•7y/'.</ J'ish made it in 'jH days from Boston, and the Sword
/VvA in 93 from New York.

In 1853 It wii, made hy the Contest in !»7 days, I'l'i/in.j I'isk in 02, J'llm
Gilpin in 9i\ r.nd the 0/i"c;j/a/ icportcu lOO; all from Xrw York.

In l^'il tlio passage was made l>y t'ne Jhivui BrDirn m 'J8 days, the Fiitiuii
Ciniid in 89, the Ilnrricane in 9'.'. the U'l/ihcraf'i iti U7. i:om New Yorii ; aiv.l
by the llomance of llie Hens in Itt'i days from IJoston.

In 1H.')5 no vessel made it in loo days, alt'.iou^h the Hiia'd of the Mortiin/
and Neptune's Car reported in lot) from New York, and the Wetlwa-d JIu
100 from Boston.

In I85(i the Antelope made it iu '■'! d.iyri, and the Sweepstaktu in .'.t fto
New Y'ork.

In 1H57 the J-'lyiitj Dnnjon arrived in 'JS days, and the Urcat lit public
92 from New York, 'liie I)ani>h elipper Cimbur made the trip from Liverpool
in 100 day.s, tlie ([iiicke^t on reciird.

In 1S58 the ship Tivili'jht made tho pns^age in 100 days, iintl the Andre>v
JmLsttn in 99 days from New York.

In 1S59 no V(■^^el made the pns>a;;c in luO day<. The Andnw Ji!i:ks'}ii \\\m\v.
tlie ^h(>rle^t trip in U'J days fr(Mn New York.

In l^t'iO the ship Sierra Xevailn made the passa-^e from Bostcri in 'J"! daj.«,
and the Andrew Jackson from New York in 90J days.

The shortest pas!«nj;e made from New York to t^an Francisco by stoam-sliip,
viA the I>thmus of Tanama, was by tlie Mo.'ies I'di/lur, on the eastern siJt', and
the (t'olden Aje on the wehteni, tiieir actual running; time 19 day-! 23 hour.'-;
total time from dock to wharf J 1 days, 2 hours, 13 minutes, arriving; at San
I'rnnei>eo Kebruiuy '-''i, 1858.

The clip, -r yorthem Lijht, of Boston, is reported to have made the run
froiM San l-'raneiseo to New York, in ballast, in 75] day*, and the Trade Wind^
vith car^o, in M I days. Tiie average time uf passage is about 100 days.

'I he a\ernge length of passages from otlur prominent ports is givcti for tho
j-enrs 1H57, 1«5K. and 1''59,

I'lum C/iinu 1)2 ves.">els arrived in 1S57, averaging 59 days, the quiekcst
tiip from Shanghai being 31 days, by tlie tern Sj)i(ii/, and from lloni; Ivong
in 35 days, by the beliooner (iiuiiiHu.

In 1N58, 2S ves.seU arriveil, averaging 53 days, and in iScy, 26 vessels,
averaging SJJ days.

From llomduln 19 vesnels orrived in 1857, averaging 19 J days, the shortest
trii) being made by the barque Yankee, in 13 days.

In IH5H, 25 vessels arrived, averaging 15 days, the shortest trip being made
bv the bur(pie Yankee, in 1 1 tlays. In 1S59, 20 vessels arrived, averaging 20
dtty«, the f-hortest pussMige being by the banjiic Onward, in 10 days.

North hutjic. 7 X

-. f

1242

PASSAOES.

-".-.eh. ^:::;:;r,:;t:*''' - "" ""^■. ^•"' X';::,;' "■'

P-v,. i.,„„ „.„,.. ,,, „„ „^ .■;;' ;",^^'';-"»«i". «. ..a,,. .h, .,,„„„,

;^;;. ,»-,.. ,, .„e ,„„.:,• :r::,!:: "'■■-■-■ -^ ■%■ ...o

wuvtd, -ucrii^jing n; (lavs.
•^^' '-- i«.aud.!s: ^^ %"r^^' ''^ ^- bothered b; t Z'"" ^"""'"^

«« «" "u- ..nt,,;..,;,; „ r ""»"> " Jo« vo„, «.„„ ,

BETWEEN CAI,1V<>RNIA AND AI'STUALIA, ETC. 1213

g'^t to tlic northward of it ; but if you bo 10 or 20 dcj^ccs to tiie West of it,
or I'vrii f.irthcr, ihca of course the distance to be run makc8 it an object to turn
out of your way and j;o North in search of good \vind».

'Ihert'forc, the clioice of routes on tin-* voyage resolves itaelf into the answer
to this (jucslion : Is it best to making casting between the parallels of 40 aiid
oO' S., or about the parallel of 40' N. ? If the fonner, then the eastern route
is the route ; if the latter, then the preference should be given to the western
route.

I give prrftrrncc to the eastern route, especially and decidedly when the
nindft at starting arc favourable for the East course. I have no a.tubt that,
;;« a general rule, the windn by the ea.^teru route, b<ith variabk«s and S.K.
trades, are niueh more steady and reliable tliaii they aro hv • o western route.
Moreover, the distance from the Victoria porLs, vi.i, the South side of Van
Itiemeu'M Land ami Nvw Zealand, i? not more than o'K> or H)0 niiks grt^ater
tiian it is by tin- most direct rojite that i.i praotieable, and the chances nf ^jvHxi
winds by the ca.steni route \m:1, in my opinion, amply ii: i-vj up for this ia«
crea9«d distance.

It it proper for me to ttate htfre that I do not give these Australian soiling
direction.s as directions that ;uf founded on, or derived from, investigations
into the routes actually pttrsued by ves»eU iroui Australia to Caiiforma ; but I
give theuj a.s deduction.s drawn from the knowledge which i have ac(puicd
touching the general system of the wii-.ds and currents out upon the high seas.

'I'he nmst difficult and uncertain parts of tins passjige will be in the time re-
(piired to cross the three hih-i of calms, aiid to clear the wir.tcr fogs of Cali-
fornia. Hut for these the eastern pas.sage from \'ictoria to C'ahforuia would be
one of the mott certain passiigcs in the world.

The distance from Victorui lo California cannot be accomplished under
canvofi, bv the cistern route, mucii short of S.TOO niilc^. lUu driving cajjtaiu';,
with clipper ships undrr them, may expect to average, "ne trip with anutiier,
alonj; this route, not far from Ji'U miles |K'r day. The clipper rate from \'io-
toria to Cape Horn wi!i piobably be upwards of 200 miles a day; for I feel
as^ured that there is no part of the ocean in which the winds generally will
admit of more heavy drigging and constant driving than they will in the extra-
tmpieul recions gentTady of the Souili racilic, say on t'ne polar side of l.i .*>.

Urturtnu.; troni Laah-inhi to Auxtraiiu, the route out of San Franci.sco
»hould Ih' d.fwn as i.oon as possibh- into the N.l". trades, as ihiuigh jou wire
boutwi to ( hiua, ludia.or the Sandwich Ishinds. crossing the i:«pi,aor aM\ wiuic
belwern the nu'ridijsa of 110' and 1 '>0° W. acconiing ;is you prefer to run
down your westing pn-eipally in the N.E or S.\\. trades I give the ])rttVieiicc
l<. the latliT generally, becau.se they are more steady, reliable, and cerUiin, than
are their ciageners of lii- northern hemisphere — at least, such is the rule. The
distance by thi» route to iJoss Strait.s will be about 7,500 miles; and an increase
Mon this of the aTeragc distance to be sailed on th*- piwsago going, together

%.'

1214

PASSAGES.

witli the «list,inpc returning, will not nmount, ns before stntod. to more tlinn 000
or 800 miles.

"To avuiil ttio culms .ns much M pos«ibl<>. from Jnmi.iry to .Tuly, croRfl 10" N.
nt l-i;V W., and the llquritor at 148- W. In July, .Vii^ii^t, nml Sepk-mber,
cross 10' N. nt 148 W., anil the Rotator between 1.^0' and 1.^3' W. From
October to Jnnuarv cros^ 10" N. at I'iH' W., ami the Kquntor at 143' W. At
nil seasons erow 10" S. near 154- or l.'iO' \V."—M. Lnhroine.

Aim to croM 30' S., on t!ie pa»«n);o from ('.nlifonii.i U\ Au.>' ilia, in the netjjh-
bourh.Hul of 170' E. Thence the course is between Austraua and New Zea-
land, direct for your port.

The passage between Australia and CaUfornia should be made ordinarily in
fnmi 45 to .'>0 days ; the passage to iho East Ikmur rather the shorter, of courbe
clij)per ships will occasioiially make thf pansago iii ;U days.

In .lulv, 1^7^.. the ship WnsJale left Liverpool, and made the voyage to S.in
Francisco, rid the i'nyr if (iond Iloye, in l^ij days, allliotigh the distance in
from 5,000 to 8,000 miles longer than by Cape lloni. In May, 1881, the ship
MiirMiUan, ('apt. (tray, left Antwerp, and reatiied S.m Inego in 128 days by
the Cape of Good Hojk», or in 3 days less than the Jupitrr, which left Cux-
1. »vcn 4 dsys after the MavMiUtjn left Antwerp, and went round Capo Horn,
cr'isjtiiii; the l\<juator in the I'ncific in I IT N\'.

"llie MarMillnn went throi;^h lla.v* Strait, past North Cape New Zealand),
Sunday and I'cnrhyn Islands, crowing the Ivjuator in 155 \V., 10"" N. in
160- W., 20- N. in 15'J 12 W., and 30' N. in IJh u \V.

Oi\ April '28, IHT's the ship Muty-Don, (apt. I,t>.!i(', cleared Sydney Heads,
and reachi.il Su!i Fianoi»ct> in lO day.s. On leaving a \Vt st course was run
p;i't Nuit'li Ciijie, New Zcttiand, and then, griulually turning nurlliward, pasvea
Mv-twaid u( llurotonga, erosxini,' '..'0 S. in about \{',:', \V., and It)- S. in
l.Mji W. 'I'hc Kduatvir was crossed in about lol^ \V..und U" N.in LVJ^ ' \V.
Tliesice the course wa« continued to the nv)rthward, pa.s»i»g eastward of and
near Hawaii, crossing JlJ' N. in about H'.'i \V.,and .'in N. in 130* W., when
nu easterly course was made for San Fnujcujco. — Xiutical M(i</u..iue, May,
lbS4,pp. 350, 358.

Hs.TWf rv Caiivohma and China.

In the p.ORsages along the AuKrieun coast we sluil aUudo to n M'«t<m of
navigation alniu^l exclusively gtiverned by local causes, and which, so far, aro
in nality not rei-lucled to the 'liortest distance Ixtween the resjKCtivv places.
In getting beyond the verge of the trade winds, and in laying a track which
cnibrHce« %o many degrees of longit'idc as the distances between the above
countries, it becuincs another matter » Iiich is the shortest as well as the bi>tt
course to jiur^ue. As we hsve elsew.iere d«»criln d in the passage between
Australia and the southern part of America, the great circle course beoooMt
fully developed.

^1^

BKTWF.KN rAI.IFORNIA AND CTIINA.

1215

In tlie Toynj^o from VmI to West, of course the readiest method is ta gain
the parallels of the trade windsj ii«i sooti as convenient, and by these means run
down the westinp;, which in thi.i case brings the ship to her destination.

Ihit the return v.iynj^e \n another matter, and the probably best track leads
into very different i e^'ionii. Thus the rhumb course from the Rashee Channel,
lictween Formosa :uid the l'hilip[)inc Islands, to San Francisco, is about
K. 9' N. ; hut the j^reat circle course, from the same point, runs first N. 4()'E.,
so that it touches the eastern part of the Meiaeo-sinia Islands, inside or to the
West of tlic l.oo-choo Islands and thcti cuts the 8.K. capeofXipon. Farther
eastward it attains the latitude of •!«"' N., longitude 109' W., and then proceeds
Knst and K.S.K. towards San Francisco; so that San Francisco bears N.K.J E.,
true, from Ilnni; Konj^, and Ilonn Kon;; bears N.W. I N. from San Francisco.

It will b«i very readily comprehended that a track s-o widely differing; from
the ilMimb bi;irin;; of K. _ N, allows a wide rati};e of choice for improvinj; the
passage, so that a ship immediately on getting off the China coast may bear at
once to till northward, ;ind, availing herself of the S,\V. winds which pre-
dominate to tl-e northward, mav also be assisted bv the Kuro Siwo, the stronz
north-easterly current setting along the outer coaft of the .Japanese Archipelago,
and proliubly extending its inlluence nearly to the American coast.

It is aUo a ijuestion whether it would not be advantngfous to make the first
portion of the passage inside the Japanese islands, ami enter the North Pacific
b\ the Strait of Tsugar or Sangar ; as the most direct traek is not very far
distant from such a course, and cannot be by any mear* lengthened by pur-
suing it.

'1 his single instance will serve to direct attention to the wide variation that
the grtut circle courM; is from that ordinarily pursued. And by specially
applying its prineipiew to any other points on tiie western coast of America,
and the purt.s on the opposite side of the I'acitic, it will be manifest that a
wry great range of ocean ia left open to the navigator.

All vessels, .Maurv states, gomg West from Calilomia will stand to tho
siiuth- westward for the N.K. trades. In summer and autumn they need not go
&a fur .South for steady trades as they do m winter and spring.

M. I.4tbrosie advises vessels to reach the N.F. trades as soon ns possible.
Then run to the West on a parallel not too nc'ar the northern Limit of the trade
Winds, thus avoiding Uve " horse latitudes." To do this, ehoose some parallel
between Uti and 1j N. keeping near 'JO' N. between .iune and October, aiid
mar IV belwwn 1 )eccmbt'r and March. At all sea.sons pass iSouth of !i'«
Sundrtieli Islana** and .North of the .Marshall group.

From Mav to ' iclobtT, »n the S, W. uion8i)oi;. keep northward of tho Caroline
Islands and souliiward of the .Mananas, and afterward steer for the Stran rf
San ilernardino, with tl»e N.K. wiuds, and euter IhcChuia .Va between i.ti»m
and Mintioro. From October to April, in tl>e N.K. momcvin. r»m North of the
Mananas, and enttr th. <"hran .^tfa by tho Bashee ( 'annel.

ii. 4

1246

TASSACiKS.

"J'ljo routf from Yolohnma to S,in Franriiro in nn cnny pnn<«npc. Tlio
westerly wimls will bo found near 10 N., nnd tl>c current in favourahlc.
Vi Mel» hhoulil fdUow a great rirelc route nn nearly n« possible, lh()\ij;h it in
not advisnble to pusa 18" N. from April to September, nor 44" and 4.5' from
October to Murcli. I'o^ru are prevalent on the C'nlifuruiun coawt, capeciully
from Apri! to November.

Mr. (ieorp? DnviiUon makes the followiuf^ remarks on ,'hi« pafi8ap,e, in the
U.S. ('o«.>it Survey Kiport, Irttl": — "The eurrenla, their effects upon the
wcnther, and the prevailing westerly winds, will decide tlie (juotion agninut
the Ureal Cirelc Koute between San Krancise(» and Yokohama, or even Ilakn-
dadi. Observation has demonstrated the ttlnu)ft eontinuous state of foggy and
tliick wratlur, reoulting from the meeting of the cold water of tlw Mehriiig
Sea ( urrenl with the northrrn edge of the great Japan Stream I'owing east-
ward. The ex]H'ri<'nee of the S.*> Colorado on her first voyage from Yokohama
to San Francisco, in attempting to run along this great cirelc route, was .-io
fearful as to dclcr the vessels of the line again attempting the northern
pa.s<*age.

•' A vcfisel, making the great circle track to the eastward, would have the
great .lapan Stream in her favour to about lat. 411', long. 15G' K. ; thtn the
cold liehring .Sea Current .nul the end of the Alaska Current to lat. M', long.
157' W. ; finally to .San I'riuicisco, pawing through the great bend of the
Ja])an Stream, where the w vuther is almost invariably thick and bad in sumrner,
and cold and Itoisterous in winter. The westward trip would h,i\(' hea\y
adverse win Is nearly the whyie djslJUice ; largw sea and adverse current* for
two-thirds the distance.

" ihc commercial advantages of the steam route to China, through the
warmer and more e(]uablc latitudes, must always outweigh any merely theo-
retical and -hurlcr but more hazardous route. I'rom the .-\ uth cud (ff Jap.iu
to San I■'rancl^el>, a course very little North of a direct line on a Mercalor pro-
jection curries a vestcl across the great Japan Slretiin, in part through tho
axis of the main bmr.ch flowing eastward, aerosa the northern jwrt of Fleuricu'i
whirlpool, and across the California Stream, with fovourablc or light winds iho
greater part (f the distance. In returning, the course should be to the north-
ward tif the ilirect course, taking advantage of tlie California Stream and
favourable N.W. winds, and entering the upper limit >f the water* moving
westward to the longitude uf the Sandwich JNLinds, to fur'u part of the great
Northern Kijuatonal Current, ihenci' westward, tiirough \anable and IVeblo
currents, unid Uie upper hmiUs of Uie wesltiu jMirl uf thu K<^uatoiial Cuircat
are catered.'*

f^yfT'it-fSii

( 1247 )

)H)-
thc

t!ic

rth-

■'UlJ

BkTWF.FN rAI.TTOPVIA iND PaVAMA.

Captain Ma\ny referring to the data he hud collected, says : — After carefully
Rtudyiii(j this descrijjtion of the winds, derived, it is true, from no great
nhundanrc of inatcrinlK, I hare to Rum;est the following routes for the coii-
sideraliuu of uavii^ators hound N.W. from I'anaina.

I'rnin Ihf I!o>/ of I\ininuit make the host of your way South until you ;^et
betwri'ii "i N. and (lie Ivjualor.

Ueinj; l>clwfen thoHC two parallels, it will bo for tho navigator to decide
whether he will shape his course W('?.t, and keep hetween them until he
crosses the meridian of S.'i W., or whether he will cross the Ivjuaior, and
make his westing in South latitude, with the S.lv trades on his quarter. The
winds that he finds between o and tlie li le should decide this question for
him. If \\v can get West here with a (,'i)od breeze ho should crack on, and
mIu'ii lii-" good wind leaves him, steer S'mih again.

If the passage from I'ananm be attempted in January, February, March,
April, May, or Jen'', time will probably be saved by going South t)f the
Kquator ; for, at this half of the year, the N.E. trades and the e(piatoiial
diddrunjs are often found between the l'',(juator and -r N. Iktween the
meridians of HO ' and 8-') W., in this part of the ocean, these winds and calms
are found even in the months of July ar.il .\ugu-t. 'riierefoie, in coniiiig out
of Panama, and after crossing b' N., in any season, make a S.W. course if the
wind* will allow. If the wind be S.W., hiaco up on the starboard tack ; but
if it bo S.S.W., stand West, if it be a good working brec/e. liut if it be light
and balHing, with rain, know that you are i" the doldrums, and the ((uickest
wav to clear them is by making all you can ua a due South course.

Suppose that after crossing h^ N. you have got to the West of 8.3' without
having crossed the Ivjuator. Now, if the time of the year be in that half
which embraces July and December, the prevailing winds will bo between
S.K. and South, inclusive, and the course is West as long as there is a breeze.
As soon as the breeze dies away, and you begin to fight the batHmg airs, con-
clude tliat vou are in the vicinity of the doKlrums that are often found hero
cither between the N.K. and S )•;. trades, or between one of these trades and
the svstem of southwardly monsoons that blow North of the liuc, and between
the coast and the meridian of '.)5 W.

These belts of doldrums lie Kast and West, and the shortest way to cross
tliem IS by a due North and South line ; therefore let it be a rule, whenever
the navigator finds himself in one of these calm belts, to make all the latitude
possible, for by that means he will soonest clear it.

Having crossed tlie raeriilian of 1)5^, utand away to the northward and west-
ward with a free wind.

West of longitude 100^, and between the parallels of 0° and 10^ N., the

124«

rASSAGKS.

•J'

3
^

windu, in the months of Novonil)or nml December, arc variable between N.K.
and 8<mth, by way nf l'',ii.st. In January, Febninry, nml Mnrch, ihey are quite
Rtriidy an N.K. trades. In .\pril they arc variable. The doldrums are generally
found between thoii>e parallels in this month. During the rest of the year the
wind* are all tlio time between S.K. and S.W.

It will be well to cro'«ii the parallel of 10' N. at least M far West ns the
meridians of in.i m IID' \V. Here, between the parallels .V nul M N , the
winds in NovemlnT are steady from S..S.K. and South ; Mecember, April, and
May. are the months for the d(i!dr\iius in thin part of the oeean.

Having rrohsed the p.irallel of 10 N., bclweon luj and llO', the navigator
i.s then in the fair way to I'ahfoini.i.

In making tlio West cojists of Mi ni-: > and the T'nitcd Slates, the kelp is
s;iid to form an eseellent landmuik- This weed is veiy lon^ und grows on
the rocki nt the bottom. When, thcrerne, in approaching the coa.it, you
ctmic noross lines or swarths of tangled kelp, its being t.uigled or matted in a
si^n that it i> adrift. It is all )at in deej) water, and }ou may t>ail boldly
through it without fear. Hut when you eoine across it tailing out .^tr.»ight, it
is then fa>t to the roeks at the bottom, and it in dangerous to get among it.

Vessels with strain pi>«er shouUl steam whenever necess.iry after leaving
Panama, an<l aim to eni'is the line near Bi W. Ihence tlie route lies either
t(i imithwaul or southward of the (lalap.igos, aceording to the season. The
remainder of the voyage can be easily made untler canvas. — .)/ Li'nosst.

\'e*ieU from !<an Franciico intindiiig to touch at I'anama or any of tho
{)orts .'>outh fthimld stand nut well from the Mexican co.rst. Information a.s to
the best route for these passages is wanling. Hut I should, with such infor-
mation us I at present have with regard to this navigation, feel ditposcd, were
I bii'.iiid from San Kranciseu to Panama, to steer slraigiit for the line some-
where nlnnit 10 ( W., and stand ou South until I could, wilU the S.L. trades,
mil 111 on the »tnrboard tack for the land.

.San I'rnncisct} to Panama. — From May to Octobi-r stand well out to sea wiih
fair N.W. winds, and steer to cros* 'JO" N. near llM or IJO' W., and then
head South or S.S.K. Southward of 10' N. settled S.K. trades will be found;
here haul up on t!<e ])ort tack, und staml on until sure of reaching Panama on
the fitirbo,iid taek, when go about. The Cialapigos Islands can be pushed to
the northward, and UU^ W. near 1 N.

From November to Ajinl the winds to 20 N. are gent-rally favourable, from
N.K. to N.W. ; 10' N. can w> crossed at llO' W. When the N.K. trades
b«'gin to grow light, steer .Siuth for the S.K. trades, with which stand on, on
the port tiitk, until certain of fetching s<nithward of the Ciulapagoa on the star-
board tack. — -'/ J (ihroiif.

In addition to this may be quoted a letter to Captain Maury fnmi (^aptain
Uloonitield, u ^^entleman of twinty live year^' expi rienee on that eoast : —

" Your own cxpericnee wiil .'la.e shovtn Mj.i that from December to April

•it

niVrWKKN CALIFOUMA AND PANAMA.

1219

ties
I'll

iir-
aiii
)n!

■M" the Biimmrr months or dry »cn.Hon ; the nortlu-rly winil i>nv;iilin(» more or
!«•«• diirin;; the m.ijor part of the time, it l)fin>; tlic strongest tibout Juauary
niul Fi'hr'iJiry, fjrailuany takin;; <ifr until about the middle of April, when the
winter month* are t«iip[io<ied to commence, from May to Au^»ii>t, when mins,
thunder, nnd li^htninj;;, with nearly daily thunder scjtialU intervene, cuu-ing
the winilit to be oi changeable during tlic twcutyfour hour)* m often as there
ore hours in the day.

" From Aui;usl to December the weather becomes somewhat nettled, and
commiiu ing liglitly with a southrrly wind, in October and November, I liavo
seen it blow a modrrate gab- lujme to I'anama anehoiage. inasmuch as to cause
the niereliant vessels to hare two anchors down. The sea aUo becomes some-
what rough, requiring more than ordinary care in landing in boats. It is
neeoin{ianied sometimes with S(]ualls and intermissions, liut, generally speakini;,
with cloudy but dry weather. I hare at lune.s experienced some very clear
nights and days during thi.a seasim.

*• In leaving rannma it i.s e.isy to lie done in either the summer, or wlien
the northerly winds prevail, or from August to December, when you generally
have tt southerly wind, which will enable you either to sail or work out of
the bay.

" The starboard or western in-shfire sliould be kept on board by a .sailing
Tcssel on leaving, and the ea.<>tern side inside the I'eiirl Islands on entering,
except if you are entering about the months of September, October, and
NovendxT, when in all probability you woulil bring a strong southerly wind;
but during liie pri'valence of the northerly ami light winds, tlie eastern jjassnge
in b< vond doubt to be preferred.

*' If bound South, in passing Point ^lala within .') or I mile.o, the greatest
oliject is t« get to the westward in HI ' or ST 30, in order to avoid the strong
current, niins, ami light w iiwls which prev^ii! nearly all the seasons of tlie year
to the eastward of it, about the environs of Hui na Wiiiura. In passing i'oint
Mala, either with a northerly or southerly w ind, make your westing as soon
ns vou can ; and by getting into the longitude above named, it will enable you
to reach the southerly winds sooner, either to enable you to make your
westing up, if bound to the northward, to long. 110' to 114 W., or to work
to the southward, taking advantage of every change, until the lutUuiie of
Plata is reaeheil, when the shore can be approached to take advantage of tiio
land winds, if taking the in-shore pas.sage, or it will enable you to stand to llic
y.W. if taking the otf-shore pas.sage.

•* In working to the soutliward, after leaving Point Mala with a southerly
wind, ilo not be tempted, when on the starboaril tack, to stantl to the ."s.lv and
S.S.K. too long, as the current about 1 Ki miles to the .^outli of Point .Miiu
runs constantly to the eastwar.l. On some occasions I have known il set — in
fact, I have been set — .'!•'• iiiilcs in '21 hour?, ascertained Ijs ^'ood clironometcr,
Svil/i J'tuijic. 7 u

I2,S0

I'ASSAfJKS.

'«'•>

-..«;• .o .i.r..r..n, ,...,„..,., ,,., ^l V; ''K .' ...<.„, ....,, J,,.,,,

X ,■"">• ■•• ■■ V : !':• . ::,. 'T; r ; •^■••"" ^ ^ .„ ,,, .,

'' "■■'■•■"•I"'-. 1., ;, v„„. , "'"'>•"• f'""' N..>.iiil„.r. ,„ 7 V „

■-■ ^■;r'- " M«c„ tr'x,:,: •' "•-• ^" ^- -^^ ^ f- 'n. j;:';,;

■• llim-fon- aftrr r.;irl,,„M. .k

•■'■;-■;■"■"■ --H. .fi„! ,::';;:;::::' ?'"""■"'■'■ ^ • "- ■■-"

"■",-" « " I- -,-„,. „.«■„'„, ,:'"■•■ "■■■"" "' - "..■..«..,, „., ;

•'" "■■■ 1T..-|,I fr ,fl- |. .:■. ,™"> "l"-''""K. .I..„ ,l„, „„„|„.,,i

"■•:;-;■ -N"- •■- -VH, ,..„„, ,,,;;-

^'' 'I'iii. li.N. .,ri( Ms //

'.ii'UU-n.uit Manrv tr„l. . • 'V ~

""".' Tiih Nnv^ • tli'it •)

':'f ■■"'"■ » -.; „.;„,;.. ,":;•;■'"'■ '■" "■•"• ^ r-

>•-...... ..,., i. ,.,„. ,^.^^_ ,_^ . .w. „.„, „.„ _^ ^

' lie iK'Ht W.1V f,, ,,.. 1 I

•"•■n.l.a,. of I ,„ ^^ ' -^^ • "'^•" "•» '" tlu. w. „H,.nl „ll v

^Ve.t; ..... tir,. ..., ,, , , ^ " ' ""'"'-'••. -'nch . about .oo , . J.T:"'

••f '»- vanaUc .n the ,. " "■''""' ''' '"'' '»"• "">.! '.'« d.v,- '.""

'"' »0 N. „ V, s ; '7^"' ^^* '-'"•'' to ti... ,,.,,,„^, " >••. '"• ^"t cl..,..

-nt, !,::!::: ;;*;;r-7">-«W". """"•—■-.

" -^K"".. tl.,- w.-uthrr in tl. Ill

:'r;:r" "'■-'•-;:::x::^, ::::-;■"■

"'"l" 1« I fr.,„, .v,,„ />,„.■ " "°

r—- '■»■■ ■- - «../;:;:,:: ■ 't,"""" •- ■^••■- '"- -•". « ....

""«.>< J l,y calm..: but ,i,,,

TIIK (OAST <>F (AI.IKnKMA, kic jo,-,!

Mintrr. llu. .•l,nnr,.H ,.f v.xUm arc lew, an.l th.> .k-scent ..f tl.o const can be
iiia.lf witli nior.- facility, t-vcii to Istapa and Kciilijo.

Sunic further r.inark« .>i. the d.H.cult i.uvitjatio.i of il,e (iulf of l'a„an.a
arc givcu on pp ia.H -1 J.)6.

r<nsT OK California, kt^.

From San Fianritco to I'anrouirr Island.— Vrnm Noveml)cr to April, or
iIiinnK the hml wnnoii, coninuiicf hy putting well out to sea. When far
viiough off to hnv.' nothing to f.ar from .S.W. or .\.\V. H(jnall.s. miike as much
l«) the North m puit-tiblc. Uiyonil the panillel of Ciipo .Memlocmo the S.W.
winiU prevail, onahliiinf veMseU to finish the Toyajjc without <lifliculty. I'roin
April U) NoveuilK'r, or during the tine seaaon, after lenvinf; San Francisco
run ahout I no or ISO nii!»x otfidiorf. uml then make to the northward.

" Althnufjh tluilistnnce between San Franci.-co and Vancouver is onlvaiiout
700 mile«, yet this is a tedious pajwii^e to m ikc in a sailin^^ ship, a.-* the wind
is generally dead foul, or from the N'.N.W. We fortunately sUrted on a calm
day, and steameil close t>ml northiriy '►inds. which ohiiiii il us to sUind
out to the westward about 'Jtin mile^. no a-* to nuike a fair wind on the other
tack. — I.ifUl. S. F.ardlttj-\\'>1 nnt, H..M S. /.ralout, .\pril, IhTd.

The following instructions are from the Ucport of the I nited States Sur-
Teyors :- Sailing vessels bound northward fri)m .Monterey, or any more
northern port during the summer season, slmuld stand well oir.>liore, not too
clo-x hauled, untd about '.'00 niiU's from the land, w luii they will be beyond
the intluence of the southerly current, and in a situation to l;ike advantage of
a slant of wind which frecjucntly occurs from the W .N.W. J hey would do
well nut to approach the land, unles.s the winds enable them to lay their
course, or ni'urly so, until up with tlie laliimlc of the destined purl.

.SiiMiner.s hhould follow the coahl from point to point as nearly as possible,
always keeping within 16 miles of the land. lliey will by this means shorten
tlie distance, and fre<jueiuly avoid the strong N.W. wind, as th« y will ot'ten
tind it jjuitc cnlni close in with the shore, wlien there is a wind to seaward.

W'SM'ls bound to the north wanl iii the winter season should keep as elost>
along the lanil as practicable, and take every ailvantage of ail soiitiierly winds
to make latitude. They should always endeavour to make the laud at least
■JO or .'JO mill* to the southward of the destined harbour.

If bound from Van^-ouver to the southward keep the coast in sight, and tako
advantage of either tack upon which the" mo>t latitiule may be made, ,il\N:iys
niuking the land to the northward of the port in summer, and to the south-
ward in the winter season.

Koiind to San Kraneisco or Monterey, usc every ojiportuiiity to ohservo for

IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)

1.0

I.I

i;;|2B

^ li£ ill 2.0

2.5
2.2

1.8

L25 II, ,.4

1.6

^ ^/z _

►

^^#

^ ;>

Photographic

Sciences

Corporation

23 WIST MAIN STREET

WEBSTER, N.Y. MSSO

(716) 872-4503

..■fc

12S0

I'ASSNOKfl

unil rnnfinnoil by mukin); the Innd. TlionTorc it in nlwayi mlviKaMo to Ituld
on ^ixir woNtini;, rvrn if you iilioiilil miikc iMrthitt); in iloing no, nnd cun>|»aia-
tivrlv little liitliciilty will W nttondod in rrnrhin^ tlio aoutliorly Mind*, which
r!in>;o to ditfrmit latitudcn during the \2 months ; iu n rule —

" From April, to I North ; fronj May, to ',' N.irth; froin.Iuno. to '.\ North;
front July, to '>" North ; from Aii^iimI, to «'» N(»rlh ; from S-pti'inln-r, to 7 ;io
North; from t ^ctol)cr. to Panama anchorap' ; from NovemlH-r, to 7 North;
from I >»'o»'mh«'r. to A North; fron> .lunuary. to 3" North; from Kcbrimry. to
'2 North; fnmi March to I Ninth.

" Therffon' af'rr n-achinjt tho outer Terp^" of the ""outhprly wind, the next
i>hj«vt. njore |Nirtirulnrly if Iw^und to the wr^twanl, ifi to be certain that you
• ntered it far enoii^^h, mo an to reap tlie whole InMietit of it* Htrength, wliieli
you will finil \o U- e(|ually different in itw po-tition an the Southerly wind in
rea« lung it.n northern limit ; hut. generally Mpe:ikiu^. when the northerly wind*
«lo not prevail from off I'oint Mala tu its .Huullurly wind^ liiiiitN, it itrevuila
fiomSW t.. N W"
Mr. Hull. K.N., of MM S. I/Hvaftwih, nnyn .—

" Lieutenant Maury truly Myn, • that the pa»»aj(i' under cnnvnn from Pannnn
III ('Hliforni.'i. aH at present iiiade, in uiie of the nioHt teiliouii, iiiieertuii, and
vexutiouft that i» kui<v«ii to navipitopt.'

'• 'I'he iR'nt way to avtuil ilie»e ditlieultien H4-ein'> to \h> hy makin^ oonthin^
on leaxing I'aiiaina ; do not eare aliout iii.ikiii); weNting, hut punh S>utli ; at
tlll^ tiiiu' of the year .lui\ and .\uj;mit you will jirohahly meet the S.lv tr«ih'
Well ovi-r tlie hue III I or ■> \.; tlien run to the \«i'Ktw:ird till vou reaeii the
meridian of lid \V. ; you inn> then eri>M over t«» the N Iv trade; keep well
flee. Ships jjencrally make the hent |m<tH.ige* that haye j;one to the westward
of I N . < U\ running in fur the land, make I'untii dv Iu* Uev(>ii.

" Ihese remark* are written partly from Lieutenant Maury, and partly from
iii\ .iwii e\|M rienee in thi'M- sea-. In II NLS. Ilentld, 1 made three paMageH,
two from ranamit and one from Port Muricu, whieh ut ub<iut JOO milen to the
West; the tint tottk un M, the iieeond At, and the third 'JM duyn ; to get clear
of the yuriahle* in the pOKKAge* wc punhetl to the weAtward. keeping in alxiut
lut Iti N II, MS. Kink was K4 d.iyN from thm port to Sun Krauscitru, and
ill l^r.i and IK.'jO hhip* wi le eoniinonly Ml day*.

" Oil the other hand. ILM hi ig Su%tl, hy going to the wmthward, made the
paxMige to Honolulu in 17 da\N, and one ahip only made Ah daja tu Califoniia
by adopting thin plan.

'• .\guiii, the wiather in the doldrnm* in most liarnming heavy rain, with
Mpjalln, thunder, and I. gliliiiiitf ; m herea* hy going South ycm have the line
^ Iv iratle*."

Shiji'* lM»und from Sun Fritnci%cu to Mumtlan <>r San filat will, at all
M-niH>nii, have the wiml and eurrent favourable. \ <-nm<-1ii ImunJ to Aeapuleo,
beyond (aiK- t'orrienten are liable tu in- delayed h\ ealm-. ; but duiiim iLc

"••Illo to hol.I

'<i COni|»U|;i.

'•••1». which

<•'■« N,.rth;
• r. to 7 ;jo

> North ;
fbruurv. to

I. thi« no<t
M that you
•^'"^ »vhirh
'y winil in
"'•'.v win.l*
" |»rtv«il„

ft'Mi, aii.l

' ""iithintj
•*<<HHh, ut

^ K. tr«,|,.
rcacli |)„.

•"■••J* woll
wcstwnni

ftly from

•« to th,'
K«'t tl.Mr
■n about
'•<••'. aiiti

umlr the
iliAirnis

in. with
'>e tine

nt all
■'puiro,
'•K the

TIIK (OAST OF CM IFORMA. KIT. 12.51

m inter, the chancr. of culm, an- 1cm. nn<i th,. doHcent of the coast can bo
niuile with more facility, even to Ntapa and Heiilcjo.

S..nie further remark., on the difficult navijjution of the Gulf of I'unama
•re given on pj) l2.H~rjJ5.

CoAHT OF f\LiroR!«IA, KTC.

From Son Franciico in I'nnronrrr J^latiil. — Vram Narem»H'r to April, or
during the butl waaon. comuunce by pulling will out to sea. When far
rnough utr t«. har.- notlimg t.) fear from S.W. or N.W. squalls, make as much
U) the North m jHissible. Uiyoiid ihe parallel of Cape Mendocino the S.W.
winds prevail, enabling venmU to finish the Toyago without difficulty. From
April to NovemlM-r. or during the tine stiuoii. after leaving San Francisco
run nliout lOO or ]S0 miU-N offshore, and then make to the northward.

*• Although the distance between San Fnuici.Hco and Vancouver is only about
70(t miles, yel this ia a tedious passage lo make in a sailing ship, as the wind
is generally <leail foul, or from llie N..N.\V. We fortunately tttarted on a calm
day, and steamed elosi' to the shore tis far as Cape .Mendocino ^200 miles),
where we fell in with the u^iial norllieriy "itids, whieh oblimd us to stand
out to the westwaril abtmt '2M miles, so i\n t<> nakv a fair wind on the other
tAek.--/.i>M/. .V. FiinHeyU'ilmnt. II. MS Zealout, .\pnl, ls70.

The following instructions are from the Report of the liuted States Sur-
veyors : Sailing vei»««U bound northward from Monttrev. or any more
northern jM)rt during the kuiuiiut Ncason. should stand wtil otf shore, not too
cloM' hauled, until about '.iOO milcN from the laml, mIumi they will lie bevnnd
the intluence of the southerly current, and m a situation to take advantage of
n slant of wind which fr««|tiently iK-curs from the NV.N.W. I'liey would do
w«'ll not to appr<M«< h the land, unles.n the winds iiiable them to lay their
euurs<>, or nearly so, until u]i with the latitude of the destined port.

Steamers should follow the eojist from point t<> ])oint a.s nearly as possible,
always keeping withm 16 miles of the land. They will by this means s'lorteii
the diittance, and frequently avoid the strong N.NV wiml, as they will often
find it (|Uite calm elohe m willi llu- shore, wluii there is a wind to seaward.

N eimeU bound to the northward in the winter seasiin Nhoiild keep as close
ulong the land us practicable, and take every aihantage of all southerly winds
to make latitude. They should always endeavour to make the land at IcaMl
20 or ;J0 mile« to the s»)Uthward of the ilentiiied harlMni-

If bound frcmi Nimcouver to the simlhward keep the coast in sight, and take
ailvaiitagc of either tack upon which the most latitude may he mode, alxv.iys
making the land to the northward ul the prnt iii summer, and to the south-
ward in the winter season.

iiouiid to Sun Francisco or Monterey, use every opjMirtunity to observe for

1352

PASSAQES.

lutitmli' or longitudr, «o an to know the vrswl's p<witlon up to the Utrnt
moiiu'n*, u fi>gA and haze, prrTpnting obM'rvationK, pirvnil nrar the land.
Allow grnprnlly for a nouthrrly M*t of half a mile |>or hour, antil within about
5U milcii of the bmd ; after which, at times, it i* not appreciable. With tlu-te
prcrnutioni Te«i»el* mny nteer iMtldly on, shaping a course for the South
Fanillon, on ,»let a))out '2S0 feet high and a nule long, having M futhomii
water and gotxl holding ground on the S.K. side; a lighthouse and fog signal
are now establishctl on thiN iHlrt.

(>n approaching soundings the wati«r becomes of a pale green colour.
SoundingH may be bad in 00 to 40 fathoms, sof\ ooce, if approaching Point
Hcyes, on which a lighthouw and fog signal arc established. rnder
40 fathoms ii* near the land, and the surf should be heard, if base prevents the
land from being seen. If the soundings art) 30 fathoms or undvr, and the sea
smooth, anchor with n kedge until the land or the light becomes visible, so a»
to take a compass bearing, as the |Hmition cannot otherw ise be relied on.

If up with the South Fanillon and night approaching, or there are appi*nr-
anrcH of fog. anchor at the Farallon and wait till daylight, when the morning
breeie will carry the vc»»fl to the bor or pilot-ground.

Inside the Furallonoit the "wt" is generally towordN the North shore which
may be npj)roached without risk, ke<'|iing outside of the kelp, wliich marks
rt>cks under water.

6'fiw J-'raumru lo the San,lu irh hfanih — First run for the trodes, and from
June to DecruilHr stiver uUiul NV.S \V. to ciror the laiul as soon as {XMutiblc,
thus avoitling the calms U) the e.nstw.'ird of I'JH'^^ and I. '5;!^ W Near the
Stinilwioh Nlsnds the trades may {>os!tibly haul to Fust or S.K. The land
should \)0 appri)ttched from K N K.

Samiuich IilanUi lo San J'ronciiro, rtc. — The passages from tlie Sandwich
Islands to any j>art of the N W. coast of Amerirn, are made by standing to
the northward till the westerly winds are reached, whin the run into the
coast is easily made, taking care, however, if lM)und to a p<irt to the south-
ward of you, not to bear up till well in with the land, when north-westerly
winds will be found to carry you down to the southward. From July to
September the Wei>t wind may not be reached till lot. 44" or A'y N.

On this coast, u* a general rule, the land should l>e mude to the northward
of the port you are bound to, as in almost all coses the wind and current lM>th
prevail from the northward from Vancouver Island to Cape Corrientis of
Mexico.

Sun Franritto to Tahili — Hun for the trades, and aflnward head nearly as
if bound for Vsljmraiso. (.'roas the K({uator between llH and IJ.J \V. from
May to October, and between 113' and 11 H" \V. from Octolx-r to May, and
tSen run for the high lands of Fatu-hira, afterwards passing through the
I'auinotu group towards Tahiti.

In),, It lu SiH J tancit< It- -Kvi\t a eltiin-fitll uiid crus* the Kipiator, if

m-Twi;i:N cami-ounia. ktc. and I'Kiir.

1253

to tllC UtCKt

I'nr tho Iai„l.

within iibout

Wiih tlu»e

»r the Souil,

>4 futhoiim

nd fog Bif»i,ni

r«'en colour,
rhing I'oint
•d I'ndcr
pirrenu the
*n(l the aoa
■>»«ble, au m
cil oo.
■re app<>ar<
he tnoining

hort- which
loc-h marks

». and from
i»« (HMwtihIc,

Ni'ttr the

The land

Sandwich
t«ndinff to
' into thi«
'hf «nith-
i-weslerly
« July to

•Tthwurd
rent lM)th
ieuu-» of

'"•nrly hh
^^' from
*f'»y, and
>'K>> the

lator, if

poMible, on the sUrboanl tuck, Itetween l.'ii'^ and UK" W. Run through tho
N.K. trade* on the starboard Uck, and ofter crowing 10" N. well to eaatward,
(near 14H-' W., in June U^ November, the Htarboanl tack will fetch a ship to
windward «>f the Sandwich ialands. If tliio cannot be done. pUMH well to lee-
ward of the islands. Thence proceed us before deocribtd (p 1J.')2).

U^ITWKKN ('Al.iroRNIA, F.T( ., A.N1» I'f.llf.

SfiH Fmnrisfo to C*rt//rt^).— f'nptain Maur)- wiys : — M(mt v'sscU on thin
Toyagc make a miNtake, eKptcialiy in summer und fall, in the luiKxa^c acroM
the belt of N.K. trades. lUiiig nuxiouH to get to the Ka»t, they c<lgc along,
aiming to lose those winds in Uu ur iOU , as the case may be. There they en-
counter the southwardly monso<mii in the I'acific off the American coa^t, similar
to those ailing the African ciHittt in tin- .Vtiantic. The vesMilM taking that
course, and being ko halHid, have now to make a Hhurp elbow and run off
8"* or 10, or even more drj;rees to the westward In'fore thoy clear this belt of
calms and momtoons und git the tS.K. trudeit. Of cour»c the voyage is greatly
prolonged by this.

The route which. 0!» nt p-csent advincl. I would recommend, is, that navi-
gators steer the same course from ('ui»''urnitt that they would if bound to the
United States, until they paM through tho S.K. tradcti, und clear the calms of
Capricorn. Therefore I say to the ('hineha-lM)und trader, when you get your
offing from the heads, Mtecr South, aiming to cross the line not to the Eatt of
115", for the rule is, the further V.rM the harder it is to cross the equatorial
doldrums in the I'acific as well ait it in in the Atlantic.

When you gi-t the S.K. tradei crack on with topmast uluddinn-sail set, until
you get the brave West win«ls on the {wlar side of the calms of C'npricorii.
Now turn shar]) otf from th. -onto aroi-id ("ape Horn, and run West ualil you
bring yj)ur jwrt to bear to the northward of N.K., when you may stick her
away. Now, by this rule theChincha-houinl navigator may sometimes, before
he geU these westerly winds, find hiniuelf an far South as 40" or 4oS and as far
Fjut as 120^ or 1 JA . I^t him not fear, but stand on until he gets the winds
that will enable him to sU-er Kai.t, or until he intercepts the route from
Austroliu t«) ("ullao, when he may. without fear of not fetching, take that.

In the summer and foil of the northern hemisphere ^June to November) tho
calm belt of Capricorn will In- el.ured generally on the ciiualorial side of the
parallel of 30' S. ; at the other stusoiw you will have frcipu ntly to go tV or »'

further.

M. IJibrossp advises sailing vessel.-* leaving San Frnnci.sco to endeavour
to cross the K<juator near IIH" W. b<tween May and October, and near
n.r W. between Octoln-r and May. Auxiliary steam- vessels taking the East
route, will »>e enobled to cross 10^ N. between Hif and !tl W., and will
:bcn exprience vunal.iu winds till they reaeh Cape S«n Kraiiei!.oo. Steam

12S4

TASSACiES.

will h«vt» to be utod about half the time in this iiX*«1itT. Fnim Cnpn
San Fntnciaco to Callao the paiwa^r will be teUiuus, a« both wind and curn-iit
are fron. the aouthward.

yalfiarnito and Callao to Snn Francisco. — (>n leavinfj utoer to reach the
S.K. tradm, when the courae ahould be Bha|HMl to croM the K^uator aa in the
paiuuigv from ('a|>c Horn (p. l;235).

Ck!«thal Amkrica, Mrxu'o, btc.

Chir informatioa M to the beat neona of making a paaaage along thear oonatu
is still but acanty. The following obaenrations, thervfure, by Livutcnant-Com-
mandcr Jamca Wood, of H.M.S. Pami»ra, booome eirwdingly raluablo. In
n former page we have given the obaenrations on the prevalent winds to this
region bv the name officer.

/Vow ih* Southu arJ to Panama Flay. — From what has beert said of the winds
which prevail within the firnt division {pp ll70-2\ it will be seen that tlio
l>aaM(^ from tlic wiuthward to I'anama liay is easily made during the greater
jtart of the ycnr ; but in the fine season, when within the influence of tho
northers, tlie following plan ohiiuld be adopted. Make short tack* in-«horc,
as there is gencrnlly a Kct to the northward found within a few miles of the
land, and wlirre that in interrupted, a regular tide is eichan(;ed for a eon-
!«t4»ntly contrnry currcm further off. Hotwecn rhirnmhira roiiit and Cape
CorricntoH the land is low and faced with ithoaN, cauM.>d by the mouths of tho
numerous rivers which have tlicir outltts on this part of the const, but after
pawing ("ajH- Corru-ntes. it may be approachetl pretty closely, except off
Francisco Solano I'oint. where oimc shrmi rocky patches extend to seaward, ax
ihc c<>a»t is in (;rn»ml Ixild-to. Core, however, should be taken not to run
into the c.-iims cau-oed by the high lond«, as it is difficult to get off into tho
brct r.c again, and the xwcll »et- in-»h<ire, where it frc4uently happi-UH that no
anchorn>;e i"< to l)e foimd till close to the rooks.

In beating up the May of I'nnania in the fine st>ason, the eastern passage, or
that h<-tween the Islas del Key and the main, is to be preferred, as, with one
exception, it itt free from dangers. The water is sni'MJlh, and a regular tide
enablen you to make more northing than it would be poasiblc to do, in niiio
coses out of ten, against the strong current, and short high s(>a, which at this
season prevail in the centre or on the wevteni side. I>uring the rainy M-awon,
a strai^'lit cmme up the bay is pn-fera)>le to entangling yournvlf with tho
isilandii, the current ^enerallv folloMin^ the direction of the wind.

Fmm Ponnma li::y !o the Southunrtl. — liut the great diliiiulty at all tiinca
eon»i*tn in getting either to the tioutliwnrd or westward of I'anama. I he
passage to the southward is niaile in two ways, — either hy iMutiiig up the
co:iht agitinht a conntantly fnul wind anil contrary current, or hy Htiiiiding off
tu »vu till eutlicivut Boulbiiig i» uiadv to mUuw ^mu lu ft'tch yuur [Hirt ou thv

Kn.m TofHi
k1 aod ouirnit

to rmrh the
nlor M ID the

(TNTRAT. ANfFRTCA. MFXIPO. FTf

1255

; thew eouu
itcnaot-t'om-
aluablo. In
ind* iu this

ofthe winds
<*n that t}io
t^Jp grvNter
fncc of tlio
«■ in-Hhorc,
iiilcs of the
fof • con-

and ('•i»o
nthd of the

but after
Pscopt off
f«w»rd, BH
lot to run
■ int<> tho
■"' that no

"••Mfo, or
With ono
xlar tidu
• ill nino

I at thiif
M-.imin,

nth tho

II tiiiu'ii
■ Ihe
II]) tho
"•K off
•>ii thv

•tnrl>onrd tack. Holh plans are very tedioiw. lu it frtMiucntly taken twenty
days t4) beat up to (iuayiii{uil, wliiUt nix or •vvcn dayi are an aYcrngc pauago
down.

J-'rom PfinHtna Hay to th» H'tttwarii. — If bountl tf. the wcitwnrii during the
northern, n great deal of time may Ims saved by kcepint; clow in-shore. and
thus taking advantage of them ; they will carry you as far as the (iulf of
Niroya. When pajtt the Morro lierniosa, " I'apiignyos " may be looked for,
niid with them a courso tthould bo tteerc<l for the (iulf of Tchuantepec, when
it will de|K-n<l on tho jM)rt you are bound to, whether, after croiwing the gulf
\t\ the aid of one of its gales, you should keep in or otf-shorc. If bound ftir
Aeapulco, keep in and l>cat up : but if bound to the westward, you cannot do
iH'tter than make » West course, as nearly as the winds will allow you.

The passage to the westward from I'anama tluring the rainy season is n
most tedious atfair, ealms. sijuiilU, contrarj- winds and currents, accompanied
bv n heavy swell and extreme heat, as well as an atmosphere hmded with
moisture and rain, are the daily areompanimeiits. It often occurs tliat 20
miles of wt>sting are not made in a wiek, and it is only by the induitrious
use of every H<|uall and slant of wind that the passage can be made at all.*
( Ipinitmn are divided an\iiiii»st the coa«t«T« iw to the propriety of working to
tlic southward and trying t4) get rid of the bad weather, or ')eating .i]) within
n mmleratc distance of the land. My experience would lead me to prefer tho
latter, as the strong wimU ami frecjuent !«iualls which so often occur near the
land sometiiiit*s allow a good lung leg to )>e made- to tho itorth-weMtward,
while, further off, lhi«t advantiige is sacrificed for only a shade finer weather.

From thr (lalapnijoi Islamh to Cape Ht. Luen.%. — I have already alluded to
the diffieulty <if getting to the westward from the Hay of Tanama. The trado
wind seems to posM'ss no steady influiiice to the ea.<*tward of i\ line drawn
from l'a|>e St. Lucas, in 11 N., to the (ialapagoN Islands on the i'i(|uator.
Amongst these islaiuU the south-ea.steru trade wind \» steady during nine or
ten months of the year, und it is only in January and February, and some-
time* in March, that they are inU*rrupted by long calms, ami occasional
breeios North and N.W., but these are never of any great utrength. To the
northward of them, the ejistern limit of the trade seems to depend upon tho
time of year. lu the early part of Apnt I have found it between tha parallels

• Of the tcfioiu nstnrr <if this naviKstion, tho follnwinif tadsccoant will be « t^ood ox-
amult* : -Tli« l>»rijuc Amt/y, (r'lii I.uiulon, miiltxi froi.i I'aimnm for Soil Fraiici<tco on tho
7th of l^lsrrh, IS62, snd sfU-r InJeig out nissty-kivs dnyn put into 8an Hlan, with niia-
Uen of th» p«u»«iiiK<'r« >len<l. '(')») rotnaiiiinK ^tkumTm'Xi wore then trsnKfi>rrt>() to tho
.|rrA»AaU (irM\t, anj Uwy wer« si»iy-<l»e <!«>•• uii Ui« piusiiKO t" Sim Friincinco. ilurin^
which U0»« ui^riU-tn more of ih«m JioJ. Tits suffurin))r» oiidurtnl l>y tho unfortunstK |>.i'-
s.nKvr« is slmost »«7on<l >lc«ri|>'i..n. Kor the Issl thirt *n d«y« of thii i>iti«i.j,n( ihuy wurs
ou an sUuwano- of a pint of water p«r ilay, and l.tnlly wiiliout pruvi:>ion».

US6

PASSAOF.S.

of 8* and W S., 900 to t.OOO milM further to the nrntirnrtl than at the end
of June ; and in the int«>rinediato mnnthii, cither more nr Im to the eastward
as it waa earlier or Intrr in the Moiwon, but in no eaao that I hare met with
hat a steady or n^^tilnr trade been eiperirnocd till the abore line haa been
reached. It ia thia circumstance, and the prevalence in the intemictliate
a[tnce of wcatt^rly wind*, caltna, and contrary currenui, thai make* the paaaage
from Panama tn the wtatward, aa far aa thia lino, ao tedious. I have be«-n
forty «laya Itentiug from the entrance of the bay in HO" \V., to the eaatcm edjjo
of the trade in 111 W., a distoaoc of Icaa than 2,000 miles, or on an averago
about 40 miles per day.

yV<mt th* mtridian of Cap* Si. I.utai Wntuanl. — When once within the
^.-^fluence of the trade, a paaan^^ ia easily made either to the southward, wcHt-
ward, or northward ; but it must be borne in mind that the eastern ver^o of
this seems, in these parts, to be influenced by the seasons. Tlius, in June
and July, I found it fresh from N.N.W., and even at times N.W., aa far out
as the meridian of 1J5 \V., whereas in March and April it was light from
N.N.K. t<) Kjist and K.S.K., from our first mt>oting it in l»H W., till past the
meridian of ('ape St. Lucas in 1 10~ W., where I picked up a good ateady breeze
from N.N.K.

As a general rule the wind is found to haul more to the eastward as you get
farther off the land, and I did not nn«i this rule afTeettHl by the latitude, as,
(although, as I have ntatod, the wiuu ha.-igx t» the northward, and even at timi>s
to the westward of North, near the eastern liiiut of the trade, from the tropio
of Cancer to the variables near the K(juntor , I found it aJwiut the meridian of
the Sandwich Inlands aa far to the eastward im and near the line aa it woa in
■Sb' N., in which latitude the wenterly winds are in general met with.

("apt. Ilasil Hall sajni. -Ihc returii passages from the coast <>/ Sfrxico to
Panama a'e aiwayft easy. Krorii DfcemlHT to May ^Hummer^ a distance of
IM) to 1'>H mile* from the coast in<iures a fair wind all the way. In the other
months it is advuabie to keep still farther oHT, say .tOO miles, to avoid the
calnitt, and the incessant mms, squalls, and lightnings, which everywhere
prevail on the coast ut tltis season.

The following rentarks on the passage from South America to Central
Amrrica, arc by Captain I>e I^tiielin, who was sent in the French corvette
I.a liriUantf to make A reconnaissance of the hydrography of the coast of
Central America in 1K,')2,

Whotevcr may be the jMiint of departnre, the first track should take nearly
on llie meridian of the islnncU of St. .\nibrose und Ki-lii, in order to giiin tho
S.K. trades. .VfUr that xU-er so aa to |>ass some leagues to the West «>f
Toinl Ajuja, to gain the fine Soutii and S.S.W. brot'Ki>a which blow ihre gh-
oul tho year, and will carry you up wi«h Ca|¥« Hlanco (iulf of (iiiavaouil),
v»luch xhoiihl !>«• ma<lc to correct the reckoning 'Hitncc cross the Uuc m

ni:T\vi:r,N Panama and ArsruAMA. ftc

1257

•n at the rnd

the eastward

arc met with

"«• haa been

intermediate

• the paMMige

I httTe he^-n

•••Mtem eHjfo

u an aTernge

'within the
iwnrd, went-
frn rer^ nf
'in, in Juno
•. a« far out
> light from
ill past tho
eody brecce

' ** T"" g^t
■titude, M,
fu at timi»B
the tropic
'H'ridiati of
' it wa« in
1.

^frxico to

tance of

the othor

avoid the

•r^ where

f^entral
Corvette
coast of

ncarljr

k''>iii the
kV'eiit of
Iff gh-

tt'iuil),
line lit

Rhout R.l" or 84"' W., korpin^ '>0 lonK"!*" at leant from the (iiilapagoti. From
ihi' K^pintnr the de«tination will nvulnte the route. If hound to the (lulf of
Dulre, or any point Ka»t of Poinl lliTriidunk, in tin- (iulf of Nirovii, nlwnvn
endeavour to make Point Hurricn. If houn<i for the (iulf of Nicoya make
for f'a|)e lllanco, and if for lloah-jo, make for the Volcano el Viojo, from
whence you can ra/iily f« trh nny point to the Writ of the (Julf of I'apnijayoa.

Hut if bound for Arnjutlii or Sun .Ioa«'< <K' (iuntrmfiln, n <lirect route from
the line passed near to Cocon Ixlaiid, which hem;; well luid down will make a
goo<l pinnt of deimrtnre, and then the volennoe* of (entrnl America form tx-
cellent landmarks for the ports, as descrilM>d in the direetirms. Hut from May
to November, n jn-riod when these landmarks arc seldom visible, the hi^h
lands there Iwin^j almost always hidtlen by haze, vctseU from the South should
make for Cap** Hlanco, and then follow the eon^t at a distance of 12 to lo
mile», which can l>e done without danf^er. Some think that it i<« always best
for a vessel from the South to make Cape Hlanco of Ciuayai|uil, and then
Cape Hlanco of Nicoya, and then l)y followinj^ the coast that they will tiud the
breetcs stronger and the current always favourable.

Br.TWK.r.N Panama am> AtsTR.M.iA, r.Tc.

M. Ijibrossc states that it will be advisable tm sturtini; to make as much
southing as j)ossible in order to reach the S.K. trades. Ve»>eli, whow dotina-
tion is Au.'ttralia. ihoultl therefore at »ir«(t follow the route to San Francisco or
Csllao. It will generally be very advontagcous to cross the Kquutor Kast of
the (Jnlapogo*, near M3' W., when posMble. After the trades are once reached
•leer for the high lands of Fatu-hivu, Marquesas Islandit.

After leaving Fatu-hiva for New Zealand, from December to May, steer so
as to pass West of Cooks jjroup. thence S>ulh of Nicholson Shoal ; cross the
tropic near 173^ \\ ., and pass westward of the Kermailec Nles. Fmm
NovcmlM-r to May it is preferable to pass northward and westward of the
Tonga Islantls. anil to interM-ct the tropic near l^o" or 17H K.

Au$lralui t» the Writ ( oust «t' South .i»irri>o. — After a vessel has got to tho
eastward of New Zealand, sh6 should head, as near as the wind will allow, for
her ntremr parallel, or r.ither a little to the A'<-rM of it, .'jO"' S. from October
to April, and h'l^ S. from April to October. Thence make the ea.«tin^,' but do
not get to the South of these parallels. A vessel bound to Panama can follow
a more westerly route than the passage to Culluo, and should sight Cape Sua

F»"anciBCo.

Panama to China and y.i/.nn.— First follow the route from Panama to San
Francisco (p. 1247), until the region of stea.ly N.K. trades is attained, and then
Bteer a counw to reach the meridian of the Sandwich Islands between 15 and
ao- N., and thence follow the route fr.-m Sau Francisco (p. 1244).

Horth Pacific.

r2:»8

PASSACiKS.

(^Kim» nnd Jitftnn lo I'nlpnraiio, fttllnn, itnil PttH^mi — Tn ih^ \ T, mon«(v>n
thr b«>«t and thortoat routt> from llon^ Konif i* Smith ot' Austmlia, hut in tin-
S.W. monrtMin, or nt nil »ca«<mt iVoin Slinii^hiii an<l Vokuliaiun. thr nortlirrlj
route in bent. Uun down the riuitinir nonr ihr |mrnll«'l of I.') N.. whiTP tJif
winiU and curn'nt* nrc fjrnemlly favnuralilr. 'I lio NK. trndrs thnultl Ix*
ttrurk U<tw«M»n 14M' nnd 1 l.'i^ \V , itnd the H.K. tradi>« nrur S N. lirlwern
\\H and r.M W , and fioiu here follow the route from Sun Krunt-u«-o vP*>K<^

Mnury adfimvi nhip* to roach the N K. Irwdri nrar \'t2° V... nnd to croM tho
K(]uator near 17*i K... nnd ihcnre lo |muw cither FUat or Wont of New
/ioalnnd : hut thia route n|i|irarii hardly advinrhle for Miling vi-mhU ua Kvi'ntI
grou]>a of lahiuda he in the way.

yVimima /<> fh* Sauihrtrh /»lnn<h. — Tlrneh the S E trmlra n« »o<in a*
poaaiblc, and nfterwnnU croaa the Ki|uat4)r near \'2H W. ; mid In N. near
138» W. Thenco din r with the N.K. trade* a fetch well to windward
of the ]Hirt of dcotiniition. If buuud tu Honolulu tuako tlic talaud of Maui
from the northward.

SnnJtittk ItlnniU to Pannmti — Firat proceed a* for San Frnnciaco p. 12.'>2^,
and do not lM*nr S)uth until p.mt I.Ih W., reaching the N.K trado.i ne.ir
is;!" \V., and then follow the route from Sun FmnCiMSo.

Pnnnma to tht .yfun^ufMat IflamU ami Tiihili. After Icavinjj Piinnma
ni;ike to the doutliward until the S.K. tratle* South of the line nre reached.
Tlien heail for Fa'.u-hiva, and thcacc |irocccd aa iu thu ruule from San
Francisco (p. 12'>"J).

ToAt/i lo I'aHomii — Fir«t maVe for the n'tfion of West w!nd«, and then run
eaatwnrd lictwixn 3.'> nnd |.) S., not jtoaaitig iuto the S.K. trades until Cuik*
ItUuico bean N. of NK.

FkoM VAI.rAHAiao ORrAIJXo TO ritlN^. fTr.

Thia paaaagv may In* made hy either the N ]'.. ,.r S K. tradci. The
Boutherly route ia to l>c preferri'tl hy vihhcU leaving from Fehruarv to
July ; the northerly rouU> ia the IwtU'r one during the remnindir of the year.

Suulhrrly linutf — t hi leaving vt-«t«U nhould dU-er N .\.\V. or N.NV. from
Val|»aruiiMi, or Went from Cnllao, to utrike the S K. tnrde region. Then head
ao aa U) make Fnlu-hiva, Manjui-aas Uland*. and tluiice »U>cr aouthward of
the (iiUiert group nnd northward of the Telew Inhmla. After thia, between
March and ( >cU)bcr, in the S.W. mouHoon, «hajH; tho counw; toward the Strait
of San Hernarilmo, an>l enter the China Sa betwwn Luzon and Minil<)ro.
Fnmr October Uj March, m tlie N K inmi^.xn. after leavitit; the I'elew Islandn
k<-ep northward of the I'hiljjjpiuea, uud guiu tho Chma {>eu b} paaaing thruugh
the lionhee group.

There u ulao another route which hta ita advantage/* for ahi]M coming from

mlm. hut in t),,-
II. Ihv nortlii-rlj
^ N., whiTr thf
ii'lr* nhould |k»
•'« N. Itrtwrrii
raacutu ^pugca

n»l to crnM the

Wont of New

■t^-U iu Kveritl

i>* n« tnon m
J l<> N noar
to wiiulwapl
slaud of Maui

i»co p 12.'.2),
K. tru<li>N iiiMr

Vint; I'.innmit
arr rcnolu-i],
'^ from Son

"nil then run
f* until CuiH-

radm. The
'••III nary to
f t li«' yt'ttr.
N W. fioiu
J'lu'n hfad
'iithwartl ..f

l», >>l>tMrtM-n

1 the Strait

I Miiiilor...

^•w lilaiiiJM

"if through

fining from

VAI.I'ARAISO AND rAU.AO TO CHINA. ETC. 12.V.»

the eoMt of America from Febnmry to July. To follow it. afur niKlitinR Katu-
hita, itrcr •<> m to cromt* the hUjimtor near Ifi*)" or IBM' W, ; thin titeor N.W.
■ml |>aM North of the Mamhali gruup, or pau between Ili)nhiiiu ami Mul^r»Te
UlumU, and make t<» the N.W. betwcin the two chains of iaIandN. After
IwiiiinK northward of the Mnrahall group th« vcm«1 wdl make rajiidly to tho
wr»tward. krtpmg aouthwurd of (iuaiii, and after thi« inako fur San Htr-
uirdino Strait.

Surthfrhj /ioutf.—}Uni\ with the S.K. trader to cross tlic Eijuator near
i:»M- W.. and 10^ N. near 14;J' W., tliu N.K. trades will Ik- f<.und near this
paralU-l. Crims IH' N. in about li'.o \V., and liienue follow the route from
San I'ranciMo to China p. rj|.> .

C/titM, At. to I'ul/iiiraiin nml CnUan. — 8rc the Itouto to Panama, p. r2.)8.

I'alpiirutto or CuUao to lh« Stimiirirh iMlnnJii. — .Makr for the S. E. trade
rPKi'»>> and tht-n from June to ' Jctoln-r crofw the Eipialor between l.'J.'J' and
1;IM' W. and 10 N. at I III' or III \\'., thus avnitlini; the constant calm'i
which prc»ud eastward of l:i;» W Kmni October to June cross the Kijuutor
between IJJJ and l.H W.. and 1(- N. at 13» W. Heyond 10 N. follow the
rout«> from I'anania p. I'ioM).

A'ufi(/MiiA hlattilt to Valparnito nntl Cutlan.- Keep a clonn-fuU on tho
port tack throujjb the N.Iv trades, bmin;; them near Us \V. Then cross the
S.E. trades, paKsinz West of the I'auniotuo to the region of weNt«Tlv wmdi*,
when the run to the euNtward m eumly luude. Do not stand northward till
your |)orl bears to th«- Norlli of N.K.

l.ieut. -Commander James WixmI states that, thr)uuh lyinf» between tho
p.'iralU'Is of r.»' nn>l -.J .N. the Stmdwich IhlaiidN are nCtcn visited durill^ the
winter months with stri>iii; bree/.i-s and jjales tVom .•^outli and S.W.. but for
the rest of the year the trade wind blows pretty steadily. In making; a pas-
sage from thence to the coiist of Chile or I'eru, the In-st way is to stand across
the trade a.s mar the wind its thi- topni:i.st studiiiiij;-Miil will nttnd. This, as
the direction ot the wind i.t iti general from Iv.N.K. to Kast. will enable you to
make Tahiti, ami pusn the .Sx-iety lolands by one of the cic.ir channels to ihu
westward of them It i.s of little use trying to fetch to the eastward of these,
as not on'y do you hme much time by hug^iini; the wiiul too close, but also
the itlroTig current, which sets to the westward tVoiii I'U to 40 miles a day. Is
pretty sure to drift you that iniuli to leeward; and even were this not the
case, so diiiiciilt, tedious, ami dangerous is the navi^Mtion amongst the archi-
iK'Ingu of low coral inlands which lie to tho eastward, that, unless you can
weather the Marnuesus altogether, it is bitter even to bear up, than to entangle
\(jviinelf in such a lub>niilh. .\fler j>a>sing the .'society Islands stand on to
the so'.ithwanl, till in or about the oOth paruUcl, when tho westerly wiuus
will be found. These will carry )ou into thu coaot ; care being Uikcn, as on
Ute northern coast, not to bear up when within thu intlucncc of the southeriy
wiudi*. till ucur vnou^h to iU<. land lo ensure kccputi; tUciu dowu U> )uur puit.

12A0

rASSA(JK8

" 'llir •tcAmhtiat pn*«<k|{P will rrrUiuly b« maJe from Hnnolitlii to fallau
by romiiiK (lnwii tlir trailpn * full nnd byp ' ilirrrt with the ' tloMruinn,' then
iit««m to the Kant, >nJ rut the current (nee p \20i). conlituie on till nc»r thr
(i«lii|>aKrMi, then rut it ag%\u ■ml henti utriti^t't fur port ('un> nuutt In- taken
tu keep « reaiMinalile (li»t«nco from tlie |mUi uf the .^urrrnt. and to ki>ep out of
it* influence. Kor the homeward rtin. watch the thvriuumctcr aud keep in
the current."— f'M/>/ J Mrh'trJy, SS Prruria

■

ftiTwpr.N China anii Jai-ai*.

Hong Kong to Yokohama.— /n ih* S K momoon work up the cnoat of
('hni at fnr an Hrcuker I'oint. takint; care to be alwa)ii under the land at
nightfall, the wind iliiriiig the ni^lit alw.iyii hauling to the northward
^off the land , whiii the may niakr a li>ii^ tack ofT, «tandin-( in n^tuii jn
the niort.iiig when the wind »liifts to the north eaa* ward. Frum Mreaker
I'oint tUind acr<Mui, with the wind free, for the Suulh end of Formosa; a
•«>utht>rly act will be ei|M>rience<i whiUl in the FormoRa T'hannel. hut on
nearing the inland the vi»i»el will lone it. nnd on pn««ing the Ivmth •ape
will full in with the Kuro Siwo netting iitrong to the N K

\°e»iMrl» fuUoMing tliii* mutt which m u»ually taken; from March to June
incluaire, but more e<tpee;ally in Mi>Tch and April during bri^k N K. winds
and i strong westerly rurreiit, fre«jueiitly take a week t<» reach Ilrenkcr I'oint
Whereas. itft< r eienring I<etiia Channel, had they kIixmI off on a wind, clean-
full to the S.K . they wouM iMKin have got out uf the westerly rurrent, and
on nearing Lur.on \»<>uld ex|M<runce the wind more from the eaittwurd, enabling
them to tack to tlic N.N F,. with a strong current in their farour, and thus
would probabli get to the eastward uf Formosa in much less time.

Having pas»ed South Cape, work up the F.nat coast of Formosa, passing
westward of the Miiaco-sima group und I.u-ehu Ii>iaiids, having the current
Ittvournhle os fur as i*) .N . heiund which no current will be e»pcrienced
until 3t)' N., where a strong current will be found s«-tting tu the eastward, the
Wind also being mure from the North and West Then pass through any
of the channels lietween the iniunds lying off the South point uf Jnpsn, and
then keep at from .'>() to Hu roiiea frum the lund, in the strength of the Kuro
Hiwo, making the lights at (>o simu, and then steering to pak.<« just uutsido
Mikomoto or liuck Island, also marked by a lighthouse.

It would nut be prudent that any vesoel should run the risk of (>eing ham-
pered by the shuaU on the northern kuk- uf the Meiuco-siina group, und there-
fore they should imt go farther eastward than to sight Chung-chi Island. Tlio
current* as these l^lands are uppruuchi-d press niure southerly and easterly
than tboae experienced on the crMst of Formosa, and stronger breews prevail
an a vessel advances easterly: indeed it blow* incessantly at this western group.

A full-puwercd xleam-vesael shuuld keep as close as possible to the Cluiia

^?^il^:

I'" to Ciill.,,,
Ilrumii,' then
jtill iii'ar the

kwj* out of
•u<l keep III

iji:i\vi:i:n cniNA am» japan.

1261

|tho enut of
tii«' land lit
"orthwiirti
'" "Jfiiii in
«in Mrrakir
KornuMa ; a
"•■I, liiit (in
■'••utli ( upe

•■'» to June
N K. winilii
••"•r Pdint

»"l'l. Clfllll-

'urrt'nt, and
fl. enablinff
^r. and thun

>"•, piMiiin);
the current
'«lKTifnced
itward. the
irouj^h any
Jnpun, an«i
the Kurd
i»t uuuido

*inff hniM-
iind thtrc-
und. Tlio
d <-ajit('rly
:»■» provuil
•rn Kfoup
the Chiiiu

oo»rt. behind the ialandu and reefa which hne it, as far ai Foochow. and thea
•te«r f..r the rhnnn.l Utw.-.n Tokara and Y >ko •ima, I.innchoten Islanda. so
«■ to reuch the Kur«i Hiw<. and the N.W. brcei:i-ii aa MMm lu pouible. Then
•UtT U» liKht (>•> nima li^ht. kiopinx well off .hore in the iirength of tlta
current. In any euae it will be well to Right Oraai taki light before iiukiiiK
for Hock Island light.

/» IA0 A'. H'. mumtoon run up the China coast as fur as Tung Yin«, then
shape a course for Akusi sima. !,in»choten group ; on |MiMiiig the meridiiin of
rj.'»" K. the set will be utrong to the nortli-eustword. Pass through any of the
channels U'twc-n llie inlands South of Japitn in preference to Viin Dieinen
Strait, as the drniM- fogn which hang over the coast at thin Ncoson render the
navigation of this strait difficult, whilst farther seaward, when in the warm
stream «)f the Kuro Siwo, the atmosphere is bright and clear. The route recom-
mended is, after leaving the China coast, to steer so as to pans a few miles clear
of the North end of Formosa, and tJience for th.- cluiniiel Iwiwecn Tokara simu
and Yoko sima. Then steer to make the lij;h'ji at Oo •«iiiia. remembering that
the Kuro Siwo runs at from 2 to 4i knou • hour. After passing Oo sima,
steer to make ( >mai saki, whenct) proceed t.n for Mikomoto or Kock Island
light.

TokohamA to Hon^ Kong. — In S'.fi. MOii«oan a tailing vessel xhnnld
stand to the s«)uth-we>*tward as far as 'IH' .\ nuii i;J.5* K., whence a course
may he shapot! to pa-M northward of Kn!(iri>t4ma. one of the Lu-cliu group,
thus avoiding the tuHuciice uf the Kuro ^iwo. After passing Iwo sima u
straight course may be Ktcercd for '1 ung Yin^j, on making whici. >sland utaud
duwn the China coant for Hung Kong.

A «team->e)>sel hhuuld keep as eh^e to the coast of Japan a.^ 1.^ prudent, out
of the strength of the current, and pass throiigb Van Diemcn Strait, tlicnco
steering to pass well northward of the North end of Forinosu, to make tlie
China coast, so as to get out of the iutlticiice of the Kuro Siwo as soon ua
possible, and come wiihm the strength of the N.E. monsoon. Thence steer
down the coast for I long Kong.

In thi S. )i'. muntuon, a sailing vessel should steer south-eastward to cross
30" N. in about Wb" K . and passing Kant of St. Margaret Ishind, cross
140"^ K. in lat 'Jl" N. ; thence steer .with a favourable current for the N.K.
point of Luzon, on pa.ining which eiit»T the China Sea, when u direct course
niny be shu)K-(i for lloiig Koiig. taking care to allow for the drift current
setting to the N.K. This route lies directly across the paths of typhoons,
which are prevalent in the tropics at this period.

Sieuiii-vetsi l.s usually ke<p well inshore to Do sima. and then pass through
the Inland Sea. Leaving SiiiuuKmeki Strait, they keep westward of the Ciuto
Islands, and making the .Saddle LslumU otf the Yang Ise keep close to the
shore, and from thence 'mrnue the same course to the nouthwani aa vessels
bouud f^om Shanghae to Hong Kmig Some steam -vcsscId, howevei', adopt

12fi2

rA«?SAfiKS

the Mmr route •• in winter m far m the eutniDc« to FurmoM Channel, whence
a Htraif^ht course it nhaped for Ilon^; Kong.

Between Hong Kong ud Nagmaaki.— /«• iht XR. monsoon, • aailing
veaael or auxiliorv oUHinier pnieeeding from NngmMiki to Hong Kong aliouUi
Btecr tr> ..lake Uie China coa«t a littlo bvlow Cbii.vnn. no iwt to full in with the
otri-n^th uf the montHxm am noon as ]><>«u«itilo. From Moiii; Kong to Nngawiki
the China c<>aAt ahouKl Ix- kopt within the inlundtt} until North of Foochuw,
whence a ilireet course may lie «Utt]>e«l.

In fK» S. H'. moHto<m. — After leaving Tung Ying ateer for the MA aima
f^oup, and jwssing lK'tw<-fii it nml I'alluf K«»ok's, a c<»unto K.N.K., W(» niiles,
will place till' ship off tin* li;^hlho»«i»e on tho North jMunt of Iwo nima. at the
intrnnce to NiigaMiki Harbour, ou aeunitg which it ahuuld not be brought to
Itear northwnni of N.N. EL

Hong Koag to Lu-chn. — Lieut. IT. K. J'terenn. of the U. S. Expedition,
iH.'iT, ({ivi'« tin- lollowini' tlin"Ction« :- I)urtn>j ihe .V. H'. mutnoim, TeMcU should
paas throuijh Formosa * lianiie!, giving thr ihintul.H off the North end of Form»u
a tnff l>erth. From thi-nce ttcer to |Nia« northward of lli>H-pin-Ru, Ti-a-usu,
and liulcigh IU»ck. after which haul to the e««twanl to "tinht Komiftang, and
])aM eillier northward or souUiwiird of it, and of Tunanhte, but not between
them : then |>;)<<« »out)iward of .K^unyeh, and in a abort time the Uoef Iitlcta
off Napha-ki.int; will come m m^'lit,

/>«rtny tkt .\ K. montofyn, round the South end of Formosa, and work to
the northward and eastward along its eaot^'rn Khorc. 1'a.ta beiweeu iloa-piu-NU
and the .Mciaco-sima group, and either northward or southward of Komisiiiig.
l>>iring the typhoon siiumiu, however, it is advimihlc to ]>as8 southward of tho
Meiuco-sima group, in t)rd«-r to h.ive plenty of toa rinmi.

VesM'ix bound into the road from the foutliward may p.iss close round Capo
Yakimu. nnd keep 3 or 3^ miles off the western cutut, learing llibvr »iid
IlalU Ueefs to the wi'wtwnrd.

Sailing from Naphu durin;: the N K. monsoon, it will be better to pass
round lh»' Houtli eiul of (ireat Lu-thu, in order to avoid beating through the
Montgomery group. Hut with a »«.)ut'urly wind and fine weather it will l)c
to the luivantugv of a vessel bound tt> the Honiii Islands to pass round the
North end of (ireat Lu-chu. where she will feel the luHuenco of the current,
which w 11 assist her to tho ea>twBfd

From Shanghae to I!agaaaki. — Durtny the S K. monsoon, if the wind is
to eastward of .North, it would l>e well on lca»ing the Vang-t*- to stand to tho
north-westward on the starl>oird tack, and when the wind hauN round to tho
north- westward, Uck, and sUer a stminht tour»e for N;igtt»uki, making
allowttiice fur the B<iuth-ea»t< rly and emUilj kti from the Yellow Sea and
Korea Mi ait, otlitr^^isc the ship may be »wipl to the eastward through Van
Ideinen Strait. I)unii« the jK-riiKiic easterly winds (variable between E..N.K.
and b K } which prevail wu ibc Cuiuu toast lu iht vicii iiy jf tlie Yun--t»e, from

ni'TWKEN CniNA AND JAPAN.

12();{

March tn Junf incliuiTe, a Mailing vpr«c1 must take every opportunity to make
eaitiiiK. CTcn with a fair wind, which it may be almMt surely inferred will he
but of Bhort dunition. In May and June, however, the set of the current will
be changed, and will bo found aettinj; to the north-eastward ; under thene
cireumttances there is a prohahility that a vommcI kept on the utarhourd Uick
would \)e act over to the Korean AJ•chi[M^lu^c). With these oon.siderations the
navif^ator must act on his own jud^^inont, there being only difficulty in
making the pas«a>;e, when baflling winds, and thick, rainy, and 8(|ually
weathcr arc met with in the vicinity of the Mt'» sima, I'liUas Kocks, or CJoto
Islands, or they are passed on dark nixlits. If not, therefore, sure of the
veMol's position, it would be well to make them in the daytime, imless the
nights arc moderately fine. The lijjht on the southern point of the (ioto
Islands is of great assij^tJince in niakinj^ this passage.

Shan</hat to SiKjaidhi. — On leaving the Yanfi-tse during the R.W. mon-
soon, steer to pass bt'tween I'allas Kocks and M.'- siina group Asses Hars),
which last is visible in clear weather at a distance of M) miles. The current
will be found setting to the north-eastward through Korea Strait ; care must be
taken, therefore, to avoid b«Mng set to the northward of the South point of the
(loto Islands. Passing Amherst Kocks a course K. \ \., H'.tO miles, will lead
midway betwtTn Pallas Uueks and Ose saki or Cape (ioto.

Shanyhat to Yokohamn. — On leaving the Vang-t>e the wind will he rarelv
found as far to the eastward as N.lv ; it is he^t, therefore, to keep the ship on
the starboard tack, remembering that she will be set to the eastward toward
Van Diomcn Strait ; after jmssing whieh pursue the same route as directed
in the passage from Hong Kong p. l:,!til).

To Hakodate throu<jH K >reii Strait. — If hound on to Hakodate in the N.E.
monsoon, or eTon as late as the end of June, it will he found difficult with a
sailing vessel to make ea.^ting at all, along tlu- \\\>t eoast of .N'ipon. It will
Im> advantageous in April. May. anil .luiie, to pass well llast of Tsu siina in the
strength of that branch of the Japan Stream which .Sv^t-H N.K. by N. through
Korea Strait, atlJiining at tunes, althouu'h not eon>t4int, a velocity of 2 knots
an hour. Should a S.W. wiml occur at this season, it may be expected to last
only 24 hours, unless it follow an ea^te^ly ^ale with dejjressed barometer.
During the winter, gales from North and N.W. are very freiiuent in Korea
Strait, lasting three or four days, anil are sometimes violerit. .\ lapiilly falling
barometer indicates their approach. In such weather, if making for Nagasaki
on the jKirt tack, beware of being blown to leewarn into Van Dieinen Strait,
for if bet through by the Japan Stream, it will take a loi;g time to regain the
lost ground against the eiirnnt ; and if on the Ntarhoaid taek. there is proba-
bility of biing set up the Korea Strait to the nortliwanl of O.se saki. It is
recommended that tlu'y should then endeavour to m ike the land iu daylight,
and timl anchorage, or secure a knowledge of their position.

lu wmter, when N.W. and West winds prevail, a direct course should be

12fi»

PASSAOFS

•tot-rcd from Korea Strait to Ilakcxlatc; but if bound /rowi Ffakotiate tnul/iuarit.
it in ncccwnrj- to cndearuur to makr wonting when poMiblo, and keop a lon^
offinK. for tlie cimst of Nipon in a Iw nhoro After paming Korra Strait aa well
to windward uk |K»«Bibli\ the wind* will hf fi>und more liable to chnn^fe when
nrrire<l at lat. 32- N.. long \'2S^ F... but »omctime» thry continue no uteadily
between N.W. and W.S.W., a« to net a Twael to leeward of the Yan>f-t«c.

yokoftama to Hakmialt. — With the eieeptioii of the aeTcre eold, the winter
ia the moat farourablc wounn for making thia voyage. t» the wind i< then nearly
nlwnj-« off the land, and eonwijuentl) nnKKtlh water w exp«Tieneed eloae along
the cuaat. At thin seoaon. however, itrong N.K galea are oerH^ionnlly met
with. Steer to |>ni«N from I to <) milea olf the prominent points. Northward
of Kingkaaan the Oya 8iwo will \tv ftlt. and thiik weather, with heavy «now>
atormii. are fretiuent. rendering it neeenaary to uite every preeaution.

In tummcr. a« in winter, ki'ep near the land Off Kini;kaaan, where the vessel
will paaa into the Oya .Siwo, a dense bunk of fog is met with, and from hence
northward its density and permanency form a serious ini|K'diment to navigation,
rendering the very greatest caution, and frcfpient attention lt> the aouudiiigs,
abaolutely indispenvible.

Should thick weather prevent Siriya ^«ki light being seen, the temj)eniture
of the sen water will, if carefully watched, be a guide as to whether the vessel
has pasm-d the cape, as the teniperature t)f the aca in Tsugar Stroit is in-
variably higher than that of the wa to the southward Heavy tide-rips too
are invariably met with m tin- centre of the < antern entrance to the strait,
about 10 tiules North of Siriya saki ; and when the ve«sel eonies within
the inriuenci- of t}ic eaatcrly current M-tting through tlic strait, much tluating
dc'bria is met with.

BrTWKf>- THK iMAxns, T.rc.

Sandirich IiltndA to Tahiti. — There is great dilHculty in making this passage
across the trades. The whalers ami all others s]H'ak with great doubt of
fetching Tahiti from th«' Sainlwieh Islands. Captain Ibuee says that a vessel
should keep to the nortliward until she gels a start of wind before l>eariiig for
her destination. In hi« pas»ai;e between them in NovenilH-r, lH.'17, he had no
rariables near the line in coming South, and never could make easting on either
lack, though he endeavourinl by everv niean^ in bis ]>owcr to tlo so.

The most favdurable time to make tun pa>ii>;ige is from the eml of March to
the middle of June, but even then it will be ditbcult to fetch Tahiti without
going about.

The Imogrnr left Kamkakooa Hay, Octol>er 17, 1837, and, reaching the
South point of tin- island alter twenty-five hours' sail, lM)re away on a S.S.K.
ccmroe willi a tiery trade at K .N' K. ; this failed on ihe '.'•.•nd ; the ship was
tacked to a soulherly breece, winch la«t4Hi till the 26lb, when a fri-sh S. by K.

nr.TWKKN THE islands.

1265

trndo sprnng up. nctwrcn the 2l8t and 2.5ih an easterly current set for 30 to
35 niiL-.n a day; after that a westerly current of 16 to 40 miles per day was
found. Kvery opportunity was seized to gain easting, ond to get to windward
of the meridian of Tahiti, but without success. The Equator was cro-sscd on
October 2Hth, in long. 154' 40'. wind K. by S., having been on a bow-line ever
siace leaving Iliiwuii. Passed IkUingshauwn Island on November 5th; and,
as the ship drew to the s<.uthward, the wind gradually Jrew to East, E.N.E.,
and X.K., always brin^'ing the port directly in tlie wind's eye. November 8th,
passed Hiniitara ; on the Hth, H(|iialU. with most Urrific rain ; on the 10th, the
wind veered to N.W., and finally S.S.W. ; on the 1 lih. saw Kurutu. The wind
now favoured the whip, and for the first time .since leaving Hawaii she laid her
course, an<l continued to do so. Hearing W N.W., 7 or H leagues, made Tahiti
on the l.Jth, and anchored the same day at Tapiete. Thus, hud not a favour-
able change in the wind occurred in the latter portion of the passage, she
would have been to leeward.

Tahiti to the SrtndHtch hlafxis. — From June to November a vessel could
rasily fetch to windward of the Sandwich I.slands if she crossed 10' N. near
148' \V. During the rest of the year it will be difficult to cross 10- N. bO
far to the Va\»\, and almost impossible to make Hawaii.

In the passage from Tahiti to Hawaii, Capt. Heeehey says : — From the time
we passed Muiatea we endettToured to get to the eastward, and to cross the
Eqtmtor in alxmt l.V) West longitude, so that, when we met the N.I',. trade
wind, we might be well to windward. There is, otherwise, some difficulty in
rounding Owhyhte, which should be done about 10 miles to the eastward to
ensure the breeze. The passage between the .Society and Sandwicli Islands
ditfera from a navigation between the same parallels in the Atlantic, in the
former l>cin/ exempt from the long calms which sometimes prevail about
the Equft'.>r, and in the S.lv trade being more easterly. The westerly current
i.H much the same in both ; and if not attended to in the Pacific, will carry a
•hip B4I far to leeward, that, by the time she reaches the parallel of the Sand-
wich Islands, she will Im> a long way to westward, and have much difficulty iu
beating up to them. — lieechty's I'oyage, vol. i., page 230.

^auiiirtch Ishindx tii Chirm. — Make your westing between 20" ond 15" N.,
and in the latter part of the voyage follow the route from San Francisco.

Ami** ihr h'.iju<tlor. — \i\ a review of the routes of the U.S. Exploring
Bquadron from the Fiji Islands to the northern hemisphere. Captain Wilkes
gays: — It will be apparent that there is no necessity for vessels bound to the
northward and eastward across the Pacific Ocean to make fur the northern
variables, ds has lurcl(tfore been the practice, thus making a very circuitous
course, and occujiying a much greater portion of time, besides subjecting them-
■clves to encounter much bud weather. 1 his, however, is not to be understood
as applying to vesaels to the westward of long. 180^ : they ought to make tho
Kortk tactjic. ' X

12««

PASRAOES.

J'l

I
s

•hurtodt powible tUr within the Trailer ; and. if thin is drtermincd upon, they
•huiiUl •tcrr (lur> North, without rt-^nnl to miikitig i-Mting, uulii they hnvr fully
cntortMl the vuriablp«. It is, howivor, at tiinrs. vt-ry iloublful wIutv thov will
cuoountor thcin ; :»n«l m» fnr lu our rxi>erifncc j<fK>i«, and that of other navi-
gHtors whom I have ouuvultfd. th*y ou^ht u«t to be cij>octod thnrt of lat. 27'^
to 20" N., lo whu'h pamll»! the Trndci often. rrnch. The jjreat difficulty •(H?mH
to be, with many, tliat <>n tlie tint wind from the W«»t \h'u\^ encountered, they
arv indiM'ed to Wiievc that it wili prove coni«titnt, whi-n nine timet out of ten
U»ey will be deceived

SandtrtcK Itland* to .luntraUa. — Shape a oourae to hiaetheN.K. trade near
168- W., and cn>«» U»« I-^iiator between 1»>8 and 17.1 W., the track lying to
leeward i>f several low coral inland* I'um West of Muthew Uland, thence steer
about W > W., and cleur the reif» of New Ciiledonia well to the southward.

.iuttriilia fu fahtlt find tht Saniiictch Itlamh. — A ship leaving SydncT,
from May to Aujfust, can jmiso North of New ZealancS, thence 8outh of tho
Kermndec Isluiids. and then make her easlinj^ S)uth of JlO"' S., croaxiiiK that
parallel Ix-twtM-n \^H and '.'».'< W. From Septcmlvr to April Cook Strait ia
to be preterre<i ; then run down the ea».tni;:, doubling; (liatliam Islands to the
uurtliward, and croo«u)^ 3ii S. near the nieruhun of Hajia Uland, and make
^^ihiti from the eastward, and pass In'tween Anaa and Mattea. From May to
August a nhip can generally paas wcMtward of Moorea, and tlien go about for
I'apiete.

If bound to the Sandwich Ulands. alway* croas 40' S, near 143* W., theneo
post near and a little « ! ward of i'ltcuirn and <.>cno UlaiuU ; cross the Ktjuator
near \'.i'.V W'., and thenee follow the route frtmi Valparaiso (p. 125'.*).

/7tV Itlnndt to tht .Samdn'tch Iilandi. — Uun throuf^h the S.K. trades on tho
port .ack. and the westerly winds will (generally b<' found near 30* 8. Strike
the S.K. trades aijtiiii eastward of the Paumotus Wswlt can als<i run through
the S.K. and N.K trade?, on the ntarboard lack, and make their easting near
3U' N. VesM'ls bound from the Sandwich Islands to the Fiji Islands should
follow the route to Australia.

Mtirqurta* Itlandt to iht Saudtriih fslandt. — This passape is not difS'nilt.
(Vow* the F>ipiat(ir as far Kant of H;5' \V uh |HMuilile, with a clean-full on tho
starboard tuck, aud ihcu loliuw tlie route from \ .ilpara^so ^p. Hyj^.

Javam to At'STKAi.ta.

In the N.K. monsoon, ci>inmei*ce tlK." voyage as if )>ound to California, and
make the easting North of tho 3uih parallel, not beuriiig S«)ulh till 16^" or
jVcD 172' K. IS readied. 1 heikce thv voyage i« easily aecompliahed. The
E(|uutor should generally be croMted between 102 and lt>7' K. In the 8.W.
monsoon commence the voyage as before, but the Went winds will not usually
be found below ij N. It la not advisable to bear South until beyond lti7 E,.,

rASSAfJKS.

12G7

nor ill it well to enter iho trndto wtblwurd of 17i' K. Tlience proceed us
before (p. 1J(><;).

Some additional rennrks as to the routes between China luid Jiipaa, and
from these couiitrioi to and from Aiutrulia, kc, will be found iu the Direc-
tories for th« IndiiiM Arehi|>elaKo and th« '.Joulh I'licific Ocean.

The fon-Koinj; will be all that is necossnry to elucidate the niiviKatimi of the
North I'acitic Ocean, which is very simple when away from the luiid iiiHutuCfs
which sause the cmbarrii«»iii}< windi*, calms, and currents, which have been
alluded to. Tlie illustralivr chiirta of lh»; WindH. (^urrents, and I'lwwtges will
enable the iinvi)»nt<ir to eh<M)sc the best route uud rcuil.ust means of »Uorteiun(;
a IMUsage not specifioally described.

In «'lo«iinR this book, which may be t.iken as the concluding volume of the
series of six which describe the j;reat oceans of the world, the authwr has much
grutitication in mentally reviewing his pa«t labours, and the pleasure it has
given him to collect the funds of varied information tliey contain. The coasts
of the whole world have been described in them. The ports open to its com-
merce. the dangers which are to be avoidi-d by its mariners, the inuumtrable
features of interest and wonder which distinguish it.s shores, are more or less
minutely descriU'd or alluded to. The marvels of the oceans thems«*lre8, their
depth, and the n»i>;lity circulatory systems which ^ive but one uniform charac-
teristic to the world of wiitert*, the etlVcts of the winds which blow over them,
tlie meteorolo^ical iiiHuences which iitfVct the sailor s avocation in eveiy quarter
of the globe, are all, it i.s trusted, faithfully represented in them.

In full conlidenee of their utility as thus collected, the especial thanks of the
author are now accorded to all who have added to tLat rich mine of hydro-
graphical literature, frwn: which he has been able to draw the materials for
these books.

In the preface t»» this, as in those to his other works, these obligations are
more especiulU particulurisid, and it is earnestly hoped that no source of in-
formation bus been overlookiil. or that theri' is any omission of uckuowledgo-
uient to iLom; w ho Lave furnished the malenals for them.

( 1 2f.» )

it-

AnlUnhMh TnM. KM

A»m«k UUnti, t>A^

AU lUv, 9*«.:

Al*»hini. »«W

AUttnnk l(lft«il. (fTI

A>>»'> H.U. i.'X'

- — I'oiiit >n(l He«f,

ANirviwn. AT.)

Au>iach«ar luv. :ii
At.r** FUv. ::j

Ai.rwi^Mi IV.ml, l.sT. IS'^'J
Al'iir»t*ni HnrN.ur. hso
A) imUu n»rlviur, Th-i
A(«hi-Kanahi I'uiiii, l'>4'>
A<«juUa, I'orV knd l.i«(r>t

3, «4, 70-4. 12^7
Acmmlro. V'-U>i, \\U,

lilo, law. 12fc.S
Ackuhar. 1<>P
Arl»iiJ I»Una», .IHO
Ai\>uchi<kt laUiid. 114(
Attanin Sound. •>•' i
Ai tive CoTP, S.ST

- I'M*. ■M'i, 381-3,

46m

Poi»»- 37H

A<UlUK-k, A17

A lur liitv. 144. 14(>

AJakli 1-Vil.d. f>Ht

A-lkm l'<«k, IK.l

A i»in» I'funt »nd I.ik'ht-

houw, 31K-S<>1. l\!fy
Add ubix<oko Itlaiul. .'I'.'U
— I'ullll, Mh
Addin((t<Ji>. t'«|*, '.iKi
A<l<'loup, Point, lii4,'>
Adiutni iUiik. '.'r.i
l»Ulid, 374. 376,

ii7'.'
Admintltr K«y, «36

ilp«d ftiid l.iifht-

huUMS i'il-i

Iul.t. 3,M-H

. l»l«id, <i07, «lii.

014
AdolphuA. Point. 623
Avkiok Itlitn.l, <^7I
A', atuit-tho-nui I«t(\«jn,

■.'72
Am<-ck ('4Ui»l, 604
Af Kfiak UUiid, 665. 660
Af I'-rs Uland, i'l
Point, li't*

1 N I) i:x.

Afti^ritH l»1ot. tl
.\fulv«, Mornt, 118
A»r»'i>Mni><m l'h»Mn«l, 4''6
Aimna, 1<>«V. 1046
\if.U H»44

.\tr«iioa Ulnn.l. MV, 483
.\t;-«t<h UUiid, 'lo^
Aifftyati Knv. I<il7
A<r)ii*intk NUihI, ll'Vt
A.iiH)>4tupo F!jtt«ix>, 13>i
Ak-1 k«W*, ,H<»). H,l7

A^iiiignk KiTMr, *n7
AKnifHii UUud, 1049, \0M,

\(fu» V. rd.- fUy, Ifta

Atfti*. Vulcon d*, I. 75, 77
A«r latiilco, \H
Aviijaii UUiid. 10S7. 1049
Airiga Pmk. 170
- point. 167
Atrunroh UUnd, llA'i, ItWi
Ai>aMin, P 'inl. .k iUy, iDIi
.\hiii.'n <'rv«>k, '273
.\h'>iii<>, 13A
Ai»u. Port. 74«-7, IIM
AiUirmi Kirrr, \i>H
Aik«w», S7.1

lUy. Wl
Alli(iK<n»r iBlaixU, 94'i-3
Ailint(-Jitpp«-1 Ulanan, 4't4
AiiinidnUUI' UUik1>, y<>5
Aiiiik I»i<ind«, 'Jill, Ut>4)
Am liiTor. 6H3
Aiiio IsUnd. H«a

Al-llo-M;, HDl

Ai-Do uma. 790, 794. 901

Ai-uo lira, H'^3

Airvk lolaii I, '.•'"«, 966

Ai «iin«. MM), HM'i

Aj:n ll»y, 770

Aj'ivun. P"iMt, »nd Bav,

lu4i. IU45
.\ji. hiT.r, HiMi
Ajima Uland, ^77
Ajiro llay, '^i'J, »I«
Aiuia, Kio, 35
Akadrm>» (tulf, 746
Ak«i>«>i- liana, '.M(»
Ak«-ir>wa wiita, '».'>6
AkaniokuBi ialati<l. l<i|4
Aka^hi Slniil, SOI-,')
AkA mma. H'i.'i, 1155
Akiiiiu mioaki, MH)
Ak>iiicMw mintki, HfK)
A^uuiaUu bay, 7j>>

AVin Ti'^t. tH?

Akiitlii liay and ]Iail>«ur,

H»i,t. .mi.'i
Akvna. ItHO
Ak> uk'. ■<i7i

HU-ail, 671. t>7«,

077
AkiiHi nim^. 1 146
.\kiinora, \-H
Alaritv Aix karaifn. 1017
Alaid I-liud. 7.i7
Alaiuvia, iH

AltUk'tki Ounmd, lO'JO
AlamaK'iaii Inland, li).'>1,

l(i5«>, lii/>7
Alimiriit KiviT. 30,S
AtatiKMi liivur aii<l aluunt,

l.J.\ 136
Alan l.land. 345

Pouil, 4'il

Alarm IC.« k, 377-8. S47
Alaaka. (<>wt uf, 69*) -707,

llrty. 117N
Alaii UIrt, \nm
Alira. point, ^UA
AtlSenii Inlt't, 4«>6, 400-tll
AH«rt M««d, 3'M\

- I'l'iiiuauU, 770
All'inii. '.Ui'J
Allmm Kivur, '.'•4
Al..aa Ko.il, Tn
Al>.ttr«a |{.« k«. '.»«
Acitraa laUsd bad [<i(;tit,

J4.'.

Alcmfnt^ Ula»4. 1145
Ald«n Hank. :{.S4-&, 3<>6
Ald'T UUiid. 57 •.
.\ld«m» liay, 746
ALIrvit Point, 5J7
.\U4iuiK >ks <'hitfi()i<l, I'm
Alort liay, 6u4-5

Point. ttW

AU-t Itlaad. 99M
AliiiUtn Ulaitda, .100, 601,
f.61. M'J rtH4, llti'J, IJl J
Sua, «Vi I

Ak'tatidi^r
5>4 634

60-i

Ankipt U^o,
Point. 4»rt-7.
Port, *«7, 5U8,

I'lMMKe. ftin, 530

- I'aUh, 5fiu

"J lUtl.^ur,

II. 671-3

f^o. 1017

n.l. io;»o
•'•J. liKVt,

10.S
»nil Mount,

', /■>»()._.;o7,

»*«, 409.111

S770
4

'.»6

1144
A 3M

si4. 10(«5

•100. VM.

lltiJ, l.'ii

I, 4H«».7.
ft«7, 6<»«,

AloMiwlria, Fort, /)21
Ai. xitnitrutfiik, Fort, A60, 688
Alnxandrovinlcn, 773
AUxundrovtki, 7ti3
Ali'xwioy IiIhikI, <j()6
Alforii Kttof*. Ml
AlpMlotit'i lnUiid*, 141
Aliiimis H13

AliMKkn I't'iiintula, 06i-8,
68.i-7

. H«\ of, firtl

Alice Arm, fi'i.j

ThornJiko Ho. f, 93U

Alij'ii Uuck», 1S5, nu7
Aliiok lUy, UAy

All Ali.no Stone. A75
Allon Hnnk, 3.14, ,<37

Ulanil, !>4H

liUuida, 151

Allifnnl H»y, 67!». MO
AlliKotor Hill, l.<.'>

Shi.al, I03«)

Alnmirr* UlHnd*, 137. 14U
AlnutKrilo IaIaikI, 137
AliiMjiw Hay. Mil, IHl

A Imimntn t u«nt<-t, l->tr(i< ho

lUI, hW
AI'Mi|<an I<liin<l, 1044, 1046
Alphii Hav, '>«<■<

- Ul.t, 4<il
AlM'kh, Kivur. f'>30
AUva, Riv. r. I'M
Altainiinit I'uint, 134
AlUr, 143

A\U», .S|tllr■^ 230
Altata, U.)-4
Alllinrp, Port, i;-23-4
/Mtnna (iiilf, tn'.i
AliittinK ULtntl, 1U44, 1046
Aina^i vuma, H29
Anink UUnd. *IM.5
Amuki Hay, K04
Aiiinkirrimit IxUnd*. ll.')5
Ainiikuwi l»lind, yo7-'*
Anmmi < •" •iina, I U<>, 1 U7-

IIIH
AinniilM, r<>intdel(M, 1046
Aiiiapabi, (iiiit of, ■'•7

Inland. M, 69, 62

I'oilit, ti.'i

A'liHtapa, <tult iif, f>1
Aiiin'ikni»k Islanil, bSl
Aiiiiitulikii Utko, 75
Anmrii Uork. 7 MS
Aiiibtinioh, Hivor. 1022
Anil hitka IhIhikI, 6Ct>
Aniita, Kin, 1 1 1
Aimlia UIhuiI, 113R
Airt'linn, I'oiiil. i>04
AniKrira Hay. 773
Aiiiirican Hav. 006

I.l.'a, tf28

Kivor, 249

Americano, Kiiti«n», i*'<\
Anieiport Ijinilmif. 2l7
Antr/MO Itlund, \)V'i

INDKX

Amii'itia Iii|a;id, UHD
AmitfU'hania lalaiid, HbO.

h:,\

Anilia Ulnnd, 67N
Alno^nHk Uloiid, t>72-3
Ainortalnda Hny, lf>r>
Amoughta inland, 076

Channul, 077

Amoiikhtou laUnd, r>70
Aiiiphitritii I'oint, 418

Strait, 7.;h

Ainat«<rilain laland, 1142
Aintihitka laLiiid, 082
Amtxiiitka, Cnpu, 074
Amur Hhv, 70y— 770
- — , (l.ilf of, 767, 761,

701-707
- — . HivpT. 742, 748, 764-

707. 11K3-4, rjl4
Amytiiiini Iiland. y'J7
Anacnpa Hay, 224

I»l.ind, 223-4

Anai hoii'tca Ulnnd, 1016
Anadyr. Gul» of. 7I.'> — 720
, Rivnr, 716, 71'J,

1181
Anadymk. 719
Anaheim, 212
Anania I'uint, Spit, and

I.il,'htvi'ii.M.l, 8')S, h't'J, sr,(l
AniUj.kn or An.itaxaii

Uhnd. lO.'..^
Anchor Hny, 628

Hi«ht, 617

Cone, 636

CoTo, 6S0

M)iinlain, 649
I'oint, 0.')l
Anrhorajf lolind, 446, 814
Aiuhorit't I«l>'», 1U16-16
Anron, Orro, 12
Andema Iniaiida, 9S6
And.'riion loland, i^'J, 702
Ando Hay and I'ort. .s67
AndrriinofT lilanda, OO'J,

077-OHl
Andn-WN UUnd, I lu8

, I'ort, •U'J

Ane-oo-nxM*, lOSl
Aiii?.iliifaniil Ul.tnd. 1002
AiiKaiir Ulitnd, lull, 1 '14-

1016
An^il liiliinii '217
— dc U (iiiiirJia Ulanil,

UH-y
Ant;..l, I'norto, 95-6
An«.|..« Hav, U'.l-l.iO
Inland, I4.s

. , |'„rt, y.i-«

, I'u.l.lo d.' lo«, 213

Anift loa roiiiL, 3.'.H
— , I'oit, and LiKht,

32s-y
.\iii{i'r Inland, 646
Auian, Strait uf, 204, 321,

002
Anil Iiiland. 9.54
.Vtiiiimk Isliind. 007
Alliums Hav mid I'oiut, I hi

12G9

Animna, Tircn dr Ian, 186

lalandii, l.il

lull t% lOfi

. Morro du Ia», 102

Anita lUick and ISoHcon, .M6
Aniwa Hay and tape, 749,

7o3.5
AnnjiT roint, 810
Ann iNlanil, 610
Aiin>i Uluud, 1U26-7
Aiinivt t'.ay, 342
Aun<'tt<' (jrouk, 381
Alio NiioTo, I'oint, and

Mand, 236
Anonima Uland, 990. 007
Anori Rski and Lighthouse,

M20
AiLHloy Inland, 621
Annon ULiiids and Shuitl,

1001

HoHd, 1049, 1051

An«UH liiirluur. 1023
Ant Islamla, 980
Anthony ULuid, 672-3
Aiiti|Mnko Inland, 709
Anvil laland, 4'12

Ao iiiniH, X''i
Aoga Inland, Mo, 847
.K'licH ura, 11. '>0
Ao^i »4'lo, ■'97, 798
Aosima j-ama, H74, 876
Auiinii Hiina, MSO
Aoura laland. 978
ApaianK Inland, 937, 948
AfianianiH laland, 939, 946'-(
Apapu lalnnil, 1044
Ai'hixMi Kiver, 0!»l-2
Apia Inland, 948
A(>ulloH Island. 1 143
.■\pple-tn'« Cove, 334
Apra, 1044, 1046
Apiii'<pi,-ui, I'oint, 1046
.Apuriruan, I'oint, 104i>
Ai|u« i'cpa MoiiiitaJD, 133
Arabia Sboal, lli'8
Arachiie Ki^cf, 374
Arntukii inliiiid, ■'^93
.\r«i^o, CajH!, 2S6-0
.Xrakiiintchetchen laltiid,

711, 712
Arnklchecf Inlands, 9")7
Ariniika Uland, '.'.i7, 944-5
Arari Hav, 823, H2o

I'oint, 813

Ara niniH, 824

.Vraucti Harba, Point, 44

Arayonzet Inland, lull

ArOtdt'da Point, 130

ArlK)l«t», 135

ArbiituH lalet, 374

Areata, 270

Anh U(Rk, 240, 294, 296,

892
Archan(fid Oabricl Hay, 720
ArchimtHio Ubind, 1115
Arco, Capo, 140
Arcon K.>ck», 111
Ardoii, Point, 010
.\idilla UIo, 140

1270

INIiKX.

«*>

Ari-niulune-Mj, Mount, kR<l
I'mmK». 1 01 1, 1014

Arvna I>Un<i, f>0

, Point. 17i, ITS

— — , P.iiit, knd Ijh*>'-
houM». 'i'>4

. I'lmU. ir,i

AronM, PunU, VJ, 37, 38-40

Aninit.<*, I'linU, 33

Ariru-llo, I'oiiit, ill

ArKuiUit. I'xint. iiT

Arifiin, KiviT. 76\

Arhno litl.iKlv »A'2, 9&5-7

Aruki no ur%, IM

Ani Itock. 7.'i

Arimo« UUivl*. 102J

Ant ItUixl. lOiO

Arifp.'. I Ui

An«UMMe UUnd, i40, <42

Arll;^ )«•»«

lOror, (^l?

Aricon* aixl (it v. 129, 14A

Arkoia li.*k. sSo

ArmijttMkl l'<uM«r>N 1012

Arm«tninK, I'orl, 6iU

Ani>l<l r.'iiit, 116

|<„rk. 4.15

Amour* liiTtT, 71&

AnxKitnuik l{.-f. ST/

Arort' UbiD'l. yS'J

ArrAit iU|>i'l«, l''1

Arr«nr« Cnl-Uo Point, 1T«

Arri'cifo* Uiaiid*. V«9, 10U8

Arrmiu I-Umia. lAl

ArrowMnith lU^rnli, 95A

. Mount, 47'>

ArtwnwI. Krt.-n.>l.>l. 116, 117

Atl'^k Ulini. 1' 12

Art'.^r UliinJ. .'>A7, WJ9

Artii.ir«I, (.^x'. 1011, 1013
Aru P..i'il. U^l
ArunJoU I'oinl, HI6. S17
Arumi 1 Und, 9iy-VI40
Arxotiitpo |itl<n<l, 1 11H
laliinda, 1 1 28 —

1136
AMdf>rr>, F.«t«ro. 120
\*Aina Umik, M^S
A»an. 1U39
Asii«he Ko«f, mi
A»alch» lUv, T-KS
A*c«Drinn. Kn»'«ii«d^ J»,'27S
Ai><-im«iun iBlindi, V7i'
Ax rxlortM Iduid, il, b'i,

43, i7
Aihika siint, (t.'Ci, H40
Ailiuinali UUnd, 1 161
Aai (imA. H51
Aai«, Cu«at of, 7U7
A«na hay, H to
Askold Uland and Li^jht-

houae, 7'jy, 77'2
Aopinwall, 13 I
Aaaitahi i<ock. 1143
A>aiit<.'Viinakoi Volcano, 72')
Aaaoa' Kail laland, 1W8

Piak, 11

Aaniuta ItUud, <i77

Awumption Uland 10A9
Aatli V, Point, •>la
Aainii K>M'ka, N79
Aator Point, »Ofl
Ant-.n*, »<Ht, 3t>M17n. 1177
ArttrulaW Hank, lOlH.IU

_- _ i{,k1i, ^t:

Atonrion laland, 1H9-90,

lo.'i.i, lo.su

|'.,int anj;Ha3r/«B

AUmi llav, K29
AttOiika lira, H\H
Atataii, ^n
At(^ia Ulind, 078
Atlioa. Mt'iint, 711
Atitlan Voli Ann, 3. 7i
Atkha UU»d. r>:H f.SO
Aikin»on Point an 1 Light-

h oua., 4f.4. 4»".S, 4Sl
AtUntu Uland, ^7^
A-tli InUt, A7'<
Atna liivfir, 642
.\tDanh ("aT»Tn, 867
Atoi Ulwid. lo'iV
Atoa t'H'.k, •2.^3
At.>wai Mini. 1090
Atxu U iVny, Hji
At>u*i no i I aima. XH
Altohciin, Caj*, 717
Attoii Uland, 0B<.«. t>3-4
Aiiau (tiannol, lU.iO
Aulicnria, Punta d<> la, 106
AiiKUkla, t'oii.t, 620

-. Port, 47rt, 478

AuioMii'i, Mount, (iJ2
Aukc- llarlniiir, 61 1

Au ou^ lalnD I, I'^l 4
Aurh Uland', U.il, 9)3, 9.57
AuntnWi.!, 1212, 1207, 1200
AnattM, ) A|>*, &<
Aiakimi Kivfr 774
Avntanak l-!and, ''71
A»aUKa l<ay,;,;.< 735,1208
, hj<t. ro. 2«5l

VI, ,no, 725,731

ATM lal't, 39

Arila, 2^

Avin'>fl, i'ap«, and Hay, 689,

6'.<o
Ath* lC.«k. 7.V«
A«a Prniruoila. H'>5, 831-3
aiiua, 7!»9, 801, b71,

872
AwK^Iji laltnd and I.i);hl-

houan', HOI, NOV-hl 1
Awaiiai no aaki, 869
Avuii (ima, hh4
Awattkn Har, 730, 1208
Awomon, Hay, «n4 Light-

houw, Hifj.f

Axuaro Volcano, 41
Av«k UUnd. ''U.'i
Ayan, Port, 74' -7
AyoufiC^dtvh Ultnd, 683
Ayuia, Morri), h'J
Aruta, Uorro, and liiver,

Hi», 90
Aiuida laUnd, 121, 136
A^iak UUnd,<i'.t5

Axika (<ma, 8H7
Ariiina, H.).')

lia-ad-dah Point. 337
HaklnnKton Hirl>our, 762
HaU'ltliuap Ulind, lUll-li
H.«l.in.>, lytk^ 439

KivKr. 446

HOHiiuhka l(<K-k. 731, 7ia

Ha<*l..|.., Mount. 137

Hachi«, Mount, 2.16

H ii(-<>(-h |iitin)>o, 140

HaK lUrb iiir. 474

lUkia Honda. 21-3

lUil.r Itlanda, 1138, US4«

1 1 36
Hainliridgii Inland, 3.16

, Port, 6«6

H«ia. Pont*, 137, 143, 161.

iy>*
H«j« Point and Km*(, 433

Kwf. 4 2H, 4 29

— IUj>«do lalan.l, 37
lUkai, 871
Hnkvr Hav, 29H, .'U)4
- Ul«I I, '.U.'-t

. Mount, 314

Pi-niff... 480

— , Point, i>03, 604
Hakaanom, 766
HnUklara Ulan I, 401, 60S
HaUndrn, Purrto, 170
lUllii point, 7oM
lUlrh Paaaa^., 330
Hald Moid. ri'.i4

Pr.li, ;H6

Pat.- Mounkiin, 237

lUld'-r. Itr«») dr. 4u2
Ittldinnt, Hnuodis 603
lull UUikI. 1U43
Hall, ('a|N', AM
Halliiidr*, Pu.rto, lOt
Halliat Point, 2uf«, J'l'J
Hallfna, Cah«ca, 177

ll-K-k, 34

H«l!<-nu Hay, 1H7

Channtl, 149

Ul.nd, lfi7

IjaK'H.n, 1H8

P.int aiidlUv,35«

U»lUnita Ho<ka. 34
Halhna* UUn U and

Channol, 473, 474-6
Hatlouavk, C«it«, 776
IUltaa.ir !I<«(1. 19
lURiliit, lUv of, n9
Hamfl<la Uland, 949
Hanco, PunU del, 33, 84
Handle Point, 201
IUnd<-rHa Hay, 111
Handcu hana', H39
Hankt Iiland, 446,647

, I'ort, 634

HaoUlt^ob laland, 101 1
Hupliit Hay, 6'J7
lUr IU>< ki, 479. 480
lUrmco laland, 29

•nt. SJT

•■k. 7.11. 7,3
It. 137

J. 14
140

:»

>l^\ 1,34.

nd. .-J.!*
rt, Ota

'<'»•/, «33
Mi
«n.l, 27

.104
.'-4
4

SB
>, 404

I. An I, 509
>. 170

^in. 237
tu, 6Ui

>. 1st
177

148

«7

'UUv.25«
i '

'« and

4-5
76

7
18

13,34

Oil

R*r«nrft, Rio, 40
lUntiKiir liUnd, fllO, <I27,

S33
BMUfifiT, ('«p« , 759
It mniivitrh, '>UU
linrtntotnia, |:t
lli»r>>«.l...« IdlnniU. O.^S
ltir)4trv UUml. \>.vi,
WiktU-r UUuA, <«:n, 932

roint, lO'tj

IlarrUy Soiinit ami Chanl/t.,

38V. 404. 4nt'> 411)

V«lli.T. file,

Par Js well Ul'an<li<, WIC
llHrn I'hnl. 37-'. OW

I-landu, 4^1)

Inlrt, 3<i«, ,420, 42.'5,

448, A79

Point, 377

Parfl.ur I'niw.iro, 4«2

KaririK IitUnilii, i">H

liarkinK Hnn'tt. 1102

Itmliiw ('«Tt<, fiX'i

Ham ll«ad K<-ir, IIM

Itarntbas, {'ap«>, '"i.'»y

ItMntlx' l^><k^ UiO

lUriiHrd ('<.vi>, .^44

lUrn.w Mniid, .114

Itiirmtl, <'h|>«>. t)0«

lUrntivcM InLin), S|2

Itamty* I;<H-k, HUM

llarnpool, 1141

lUroM, Mount, 7'U

Harny^'A MountainN, 137
Harr'lilnnl, \>S.\
Itarra KitUi. .VI, A I
IlarracaA, ('.t(M<, 141
. Trtl,!,. Hill. l.V^

Darracouta Hay, 7J7, 701.
76a

R<)<k. 901, 905

Barren niuff, 7'i2

UUriii, ti.iii. Gj8

— — UImikI*. fi.'iO

!{o<k. 403

Harrii-k Kork, 'a't
lUrrii-. r^int, Oo:t. 604
iiamxr («lnn<l, 74T

Ulitnda, 437, 4U, 417

Ilarmn, Uio, VIO
litirota P.'iiuiH)^.', 9rt7
liarrow iUv. 11 '>0. tl4i-5

. l'„iiit. 700

HarttT (V.y.<, 441
lUrtlialomnw Inliiml, 8
Kitrtl.'tt l.l.in<t. ilO
Jturtoli.im'' Uivt-r, 29
naiutlt Point, 340
Itnic. KUl, 477

■ point. 4.'5

llftjiil. Port, rt47
llaailitk UorK>*. 101 X
IUjm Ki»f.tiiHl IhIhii'Ii, {>">7
ItAvnioxus liUiid, 1115
}t it laiamli. 43
llatt* Paa»at<:«. 509
liattery Point, :i;(.'>

Point and I.i^'ht-

huoae, 'J74

INDKX.

n<ittift n<iv, 441, 443

Uo.ic, 2H>

Hnutiitltiiitiiiip Iilnnl, 1011
H.kiiKh lolnnd, ll.'>H
llitiiKne, Puint, 1014
It:tW'len lliiv. 42.7

lliiv M.t. 467
-— llnck. \m
IUjrn»t('hiinni'l, 403

, Mount. ;i7'.i

S.uncl, 473, 474,

476-'.»
lUyona, Kin, 120
Ilityonrta Nliin.l, H
nnyonnniiK) K.h kn, 844
ltii7.in. Port, 000
!«.•«< hy H.H.I. 761
Itiaroii Mill. 401

— l:o.k. 471

n.'Hk Point, 477

, ('a|ni. and Lijjht-

houi.-, 407, 411
H.ir Cr.rk, JiiS

Uivcr, 467

ll.ar.M..,. M ,n.N, C22
It.irnkin H-iv, 479
iWton Miuid. .V.m
llp.iurl.rc. p..rt, 614
ll.iufort. Cipn. 7'tO

~ Jlount.iini, 479

Heaver lUr k, 4 ;o

C\,vi., 404

Cr...k, 2i(0

— — — FlnrlHiur, .'(06-7

UdxT". 541

PafwHt'i, 41t;, 449

— - Hoik. 4J7. 4.')^
H.M h.r It.iv, 2J4, •.'■.(4-5

- . Moui'.t, 4 7S
It.ih', Point. O.iO
llr.lfof.l iHlitnd. 437

Miind", 294

lUdw. 11 ll.trbour. ;i08

Mot*. 4 49

Siimd. 422

n..<> uiot*. 4<Ji

ll.-rchiiy ilond. 394
InUn.ls, 1128.

ino.4

H,..lii».« Hill. CH5

\\*n.i n ... k, 22;t

liohm < 'tiiml, 4'J4-7
ll.hrnnf liny. ''litii-H

— , ( ''4|>'', 7 1 7

Mind. tis«, 721-2

Sa. 6t)l. 1184 — 723,

1181. 1214. 1229
Strut, 602. fi'.)8. 700.

707-8. ll'.M. 1216, 1230
Piekhoi niilaki, 869
ItcUkula. 421-2
H.l.h.T, Cniif. 700
llrlhoulit nn.l liivir, 421
iVlitre Point, 24
Kulizu InM, 412
Helkoffski, 667
it.ll liland. 497
I).-lla li. 'Ill Miinds 523
D«llt) Kuik, 342, 343

1271

nelleUla Ronnd, 502
Uullinnhim (Jlmnnel and

May. 343, 346-7
Itillinur«hauwn, Capo, 751
Milmont Point, 433
H''n K -ck, 200
lliinadu Urind, 18

I...I1H, 20

lli'niclii, 219
H.noiiit, Mount, 1021
ll'n-ton 110111, 810. 847
Hi'ntpn iima and Lii<ht, 867
Duntinck Arinx, 421

I»liind, ;i'J.'., 396

, Point. 643

U'lri'na Island und Light,

3!)!l
llork. loy S.)und, 106
pHrnardii. Kio. 227
lli'mtTH Il.iy, 614
ll.irniz.jt Po.ik, 749, 752,

748
n«rot> jima, 909
It. rrv Pr.ik. 701

-p. i-it, 409. 617

I!.Tlha(il;iii.r. 616
llortrHnd IsUnd. 1020
H.v.tioroui;h Iitlind, 694
ll.'flt InUnd. 1(1.12, 11133
IVotchi'vinikiiia Hiiy, 728
ll.'ti lu'vinnkoi, Cap*', C79
lU.tk I Aland. 1024
liiilkvnii, <'iipi(, 701
l!iK Hty. .'>.').J

KivtT, 264

Hifiii M.t, 'OO
ltii;ir InUnd. 961
l!iir...tj Inland, '.o;.i
I! cht •'.,ii.j, 432
KiLtini IxlMndH. !)ii2
ltis,'!ihv Inl.t. 476
Itikir'Maml, <t42, 061
liikini I»hnds <it.2. 9J3
Hill .>f itfcan. 362
ilin^ham IViumko, 948

— — , Point, 1)24

Bingo nada, 78H. 797— xSOl
Hinzli Hc.«f. hu

Miorka Uland. 630, 631, 634
lUrrh Hay, ;i47
Hird Capo. 682
r.ive, 492

I-land. 419, 931, 959,

1044. 1104-6

Inlands. 737

I»lel, ;08. 373

Nl.iti, 415

Keof. 377

Rock. 246, 362, 353,

4:tO

Ilird'«-f>yi> Cove, 37C
Hiriyo mrnn, 892
Hirniu liiland, 555
Biro iiiina, 896
Birthday Channel, 435
BischotT l!<krvlB, 475
Bishop Island, 9.S6, 941, 944

Kock, 219, 1138,

1140

ij7a

INDKX.

llirhop Junction ItUndt,

Kinhopt Cora, A33
KilUrn liork, 7&A

Itock*. l»ift. H7a

lliw*, Uko, 806, ttu7. 637,
877

i 1»1#U. 361

-- Muunuin, 23A

I'oint, IV«, i4i, 11 4V

liock, liJ. 164. .<•».

3M.S, 416, 4J>4, .'>43, K.iJ,
(t47

UUrJilfrr} Uli-U.4ii
ltU< kfUb SounJ. ftoi
llUikloek tit.^\l. \ii*H
lllack Warrior lA((u<>n, 1U&
KUtr Inlfi, 6.'N
llUk* Imlana. J37

Keef, n«A

llUkelfjr Harbour, 336

ltlaa>t, 34j, 360

lUaknn*) Kirt. .'>i4

t'aaaair". 617

. I'urt, .V.'y

HUnca drl M»r, ri»<r»,

116
illanca de Tivira, TutUra,

116
Ilium a, riwlra, 03, 04, iUft
itlnman, fif^lra*. 141
llUncu, C'apt', 37, it<7
, <.'«pv, auvl Light-
house, J!f 4.4

, Foil, 2i2

I'liint ao<i liji\ .

106-7
Itlan(x>* Ul«-«. lOJ
ilUncT Ulaiitl, ^44
lllai|Ultirr, I'utiit, <1U|
IllitCHn, (J*pr, 744
IlliKh Island, 43U, A<&
Hlijul Itlaaia, oou, ottj
Kill..! Uajr, ;<63

C'rvok, 4J>0

I-lnlntic-o, 4j»

h*«.(, 434, 611

lihniltr llu<k. 6«6
Hltiikinaup lUv. 400
lilock lloaJ. 6-44

1«1«!», 644

lllondt!, I'liiil, 1076
liiMf, 1074, 1075.

1076
Uloanoin, Tapn, 600

lU«t, Uil, II Si

lioek, l;:2. i:3,

1J6, 246

8hoal», 60^, 700
Dlusam rn*MK>', fnh
blushaui laUiiU atid hkoal,

537
lllue Jay Cuvo, 674

IdouuUin, 266

• I'cinl, 067

Bluff I'uiiit, 148. 197, 641,

fr46, 666

ntim<lon liav. 615

llarfwur, 603

l»Und. 367. 420

Point, 4 74

Klunt, ('«|>«<, H>>7

NUhd ani Light'
h»uM, :{«4, 3.'>i
K.M k*. i67

lilvJo BrfK. 7ftA

lil'Mtitr H,iun.l, 640
IWiat lUain, 4 J6
('.)».'. 6i7

— - 11 irliMur, 501

Kirer, 447
|I<mUwiiiii liunk, .176
llol>ri>«iit« li.ty. •'•73
h'>l>rtiTi lilitnX 706
ItohriTnic. Sr« of, 661
lUira Hiria, w'i. m7
llora ( 'hira, 7, ••», OH
11m k liiand, '.">«, jM
l^Air* llnndand Bay, ii**,

i(»i-\. .'63
lUHliidi" I'l'mnsiila, 76ti
Ili.Uno l.l.ttd, ;», i»
lU.l.hwUk. 736, 743
llol. hoiroka, I<i\i>r, 743
Hoi I llliiff. 376, 447
U^luioji, IH
i^ilku* UUod*. '■74
Holm. I'unU dp la, 236
HuIm* Ki ' IT. ; 1 1
lioUha>«, Kiver, 743
Hoinanin Ulol, 76ft

UoliA laUlld, 17

li Mia \ uU UUnd. 1 049
iKiiianaa ruliit, 166
ltoii*(>arl« iiioT, 454
l»ind .Sound, .'i02
iionham Ulmid*, 'J'>6-7
Hoiiila laland. '<4'«
itouilU lal'Uid axid Light-

tu.uw. 34 4, 3.'ii
- — l'ott.t, 324. 406
llutiiii liuanda, lUH -1136
ll'mtA Chunncl, 2'<l
^ roiiil, and Light-

huuwi. 241
Honn.t Ul't. »!><)

litxk. J14
lUtni'lntid, I'oinl, 1021
it.ajt (of a, 3>jH

Uland, 522
n. id.!ti«< ItUnd, OHO, 090
ll<jrua)>i Ikiaiid, '.'70
Ituftniinu Uloa, 1141
Ik-*)' *iin», t»U3
Hoaphorua, l^**t4:m, and

IJK»'K 770-3
H<>«toii laian.U. 561, OM
itoUo l(.K:k, HI 4
Itoud.UMt Itlaiid, 1016
lloudr«u<t llAk: \\:>1

ItoUtOLI'lVlUt!. Mi'UIlt, 1"J1

it'tu^tipy llatr, >0U
ikiUKucliicu lalaiid, 064
Vt .ui.lur IJoad aiid Ledge,

630
ruinl, 376, 400

nouldvr I«Un'l, a«?l. flRJ
iiouniUry Hay, 147
IlounKii Chaiimil, 778-9,

7H7-N, llh,l
Itourhni Hay, 662
llouioiioT I'iaiit, 630
Hoiiaaii', 75.)

H<iiiM<d» Chnnnxl, 736, 739
llownn UUnd, <'>6, 481
Howyer lilatid, 4.12
Huii-r K«a<h..'>33
lioyariti Hav, 770
Ho vie lalan^, 610
H oyloa. I'oint, S03
Ho'ya IWk, 540
Hr.t.» roiiit, 3.17
Hrark.nti.U* Hluff, 317
Hm.lth'ld (anal, GUI
Hraittiwaitu lUy, 1030-1
Hiania, roint, |o2l
Hr inraa, I'lmlritii, 08
Hranltrn K\Und, H44
Hrat Chiruo^f Uland, 739
Hrr«Ta UUi.d, 27, 2.H
— IV.inl. 10. ! 9
Ur<'«kir IsJatida and L«dgtt,

.S.'.'i
Hrrak'T Iilfta. 647
r.jiut, 101
I'oint anti H««(, 646
- - Koi'k. 7N7
K.^f, 509
Hr»akwalar I'oint, 108
Hr«>. «y I'oiat, oi.ii
Hrottrll Point, 4:'0
Hnlvrr UUnd, 538
HridKi KiTi-r, 461
HrilM^ t Point, (°>1,S
HriKht UUnd. .IH'i

lid.i. 511
Hrincanio lilaiid. 23
Hri^tol lUy and Kiwr, 591,

r.H:.h
Hiitiah Culumliia, Coaat of,

35u, 300, 454 — &6«, UuO
Hnt... 4S

Hiitoitiiirt Itcof. 1060
HrvK kti l.laiKl, 026
Hru<kt. n P.>>nt, 467
Hr<<lia K>^(, 401

lioik. 546. !>S9

Itruktn Chtnocl, 420
ll.ad, 774

_ |.Und«. .5oO. H43

Ul»t« and lt<M:kl,

413-14. 526

Point. .163

Hrokco Wator Hay, 1020
Hruud H<t;k«. H43I
Hrook lUrliour. 614
Hruukn Moud, .'>64
Itruoki lal4nd^ 1117 11J2
— Pviiiiuula and Hay,

443-6

Khoal. IIH

Hrotchy I, d^'", 307, 400
lirother lalat* &od Ught,

24t>
Htuthun UluU, 1023

v, l«7

miit-1, 778.9,

, OAi
nt, 630

n»I. "Hrt. 7.18
*''&, 481
I. 4^4
i.13
770
>I0
H)3
)
17

Muff, Sir

1,001
y, 1030-1
UUI
tn, U8
n<i, N«4
laUnd, 739
17, in
0. )9

A47

rul Ko^f, 5«S

'»7
)<;
nl, 108

I'.'t)
A38

n
->i$

t8i
I

<1, 23
U»>«r, 691,

«, CoMt of,
- 66IS, lluj

lOtiO

*<57

6, AS9

4 JO
74
ftiiO, H43

<iv, 1020

il'

til 4
ti4
117 1122

;»7. 4(X)

iii IJght,
923

Brothrn Toint. 108

K(>ck. 732

UrouRhtonHiiy, 1 llW-n.l M2

, Cupo, M«»l, UA:i

Ilwliour and

Itland, 739

UUnd, ftOi

r.iint. 305

Hock, N44

Htrmit, A0,i.6

Urown ("hjinni'l, 774

liUnd, 3ftrt, 302

UUmla, l»«i4. OrtO

Piw^Kt.. 5f)H, 661

, Toint, 316

Ilrowno IiUn<l, 617
nrDwniriK Il«y, 106

Cr-k, 4I«

——^ llnrlKiiir, 3ti7

rn»«*j{i>, 423, '>17

K„,l,. .'>00

Uruco, r.>rt. 7'13

Hruiii Itjiv, AH6
Kriijii laUnd. 142

point, Irt, 'JS

l!o< k, W

Itrtino Mountain*, 238
Hryiint, roitil, <'.l7
llryi«i I h»nn.t. VM)
Ilrrdont' UUfxl, 775
lliinrl-t*, Mount, '.'76
lliirnn-li, Port, Cof)
Hiichon, M..nii« i\«, 228
HiK k. Point, .'iSrt
IiiirkUn<l!«Un<l, 1130. 1131

KlTlT. ti90

Uiu'kuport, 27">
liutM llarlxur, 330

Inl.t, 330, 340

Huonn Point, 42
liuonavuntUTA, 214
liiviT, 10.

•230. 233
But-no* Jardinea lalandv,

1127
llucy pMnk, '>

point, 14

Kcxk, 27

lliif«d.ro lifx-k. 93
Hiif».hr.« Itliiff, H6
liuiiwkc l*l<'t. H27
ItuU llHrlK>ur. 607, 609
PruMKi^fi, 4«4

ItiHk, 413, 449

HiiUev Hbv. 531
Uiillock Hiv, 778

Illuff, 489

CTianmd, 623

KiiitiK IitUna, 1023
Ilunti ■ima, 1 1'2M
l<un(;alow (gland, 1147
Uuiikor laUnd, 926, 1114
liunkcy Itland, 900
llttnchv lalandu, 442
Buov Kock, 7ti8
Burdwocd Hav, 402

point, 429

Burgi'M Itlut, 420
burgoyne Bay, 37t>, S78

AW/A I'acijic,

INDEX.

Burial lalH, 37<»
Hiirica I'oint, 30
lliirki- ('hiMimd, 520.2
Ilurnahy UlaiMi and Htr.iit,

673-6

fhoal, 407

Burnt Hill, 448

IiIiwkI, i;77. nsi

niiint<-liff lilnn<l. .').i3
Hurranl lnl<<i, 464-h
Hurrica Point, M), 1267
1 111 trot, U>(i. in 4
Itiirroiit^h Kay, 604
Burrow* Buy and Ulml,

346

lihind, 1124

Hurruoa, Bio, 36
llu«h M. t, ,')47

Point, 333

lliiahy Inland, r,03
Kiitantari l»lind, 919
Hull' Inlet, 4'J3-I
Itutt^-rworth B.H-k». 6:i7
Button Ii<lnn<la, 'MA)
lliiyiiiinwaa, Caiw, H71
llujun. 7'.»6
HVTH UlnnJ, 1123
Bvki, Vn[H\ 'I'.l
Bvron Bav, Ui73
~ laiand, <*36, 940

Caarnano, <'h|H', 597
Cnltfillo Inlet, 23
Cnt'iiHo^, Put rto, "iS
VaUrn do Cilmllo Hills,

1 20
Cabm Bank, 17

, Corro lie, 16

CulifaH Isliul, 1044
(',ir»(hil.« IVik*. 172
Cache Bay, 71'>
( ':ii'tfju<> Point. 42
Ciidboro Bay, 40l

Point, 360,403

Cadiak, t>66
('aijavt» I slot, 39
ChIioos Uivir, J-^S
Cnilli.. Point, 1021
Cnlini ihuf Mi>uiitHin, 1 17
Ciiliimity Bay. 547
Ciiliimujuot, 1 18
Culai.drtru Point, 126
Caldir, Mount, 603
t'aldera, 37, 38
Caldew Ii.«'f. 932
California, Coatt of, 204 -

27t). 1160, 1176, 117<'.,

1210, 1242, 1247
, Uiacovory of Odd

in, 2115-8

, Gulf of, 127-17S

, I/)wtT, 127-1',

130, 147—203
Call ('n>.^, 500
Callani Bay, 327-8
Ci.llao, 1263, 1258, 4c.
Cuhn Channel, 490, 492-3,

494
Point, 688

1273

ralror, Papfl, 39fl
(-'alvort, Cai*', and Iilaad,
618. 624

— lalanda, 957

Calvillo. 115
C'amanu laiand, 342
I'amaron Point, 112, 131
(''anwlun. Port, 007
Ciimtchin, Kattro, 120
Camira lainnd, 1126
( ainniaa Plain*, 311

< 'iiiii|i Bav, 308

- C<a'.., .to;!

— I«lan<l. 491

— Inl.t, 514

Point, 498, 623, 635,

537. .TOO, 017
Ciimjifinin Hound and

NLiikI, 543. 5|t
C,iiiij>l«;ll iHlanil, 524, 626
, Point. 1164

I ;<•<■»■, '.m9

('•niut.'i. Kill. ID.'i

( 'arn}x'<hr Buy, m5

< 'aii.'ivi rul, Port, 547

< '.null Inl.'iiiil. 2<i

< 'mat IhIiiikI,
Caiidi.iillo, point, 0.3, 05

( '.iiiil'leroM Point and Bocks,

Ml
Can . Inland, 35, 36
Caiioan point, l'.i7
Canoo Kl it, 5»)3

lalm.l, .iM

Isl.t, 3sr., ilO

Paifair". 557

— Ko. f. 42 t

li.xk, 5IS

Hfx,-kn, :(73

Canta<l.k Inl.t, 117
Canuti B.iy, 103

( 'ai.l>a, kill, 7>
Capalita, liivor. 93
Cap.' Nland, 030

— Ul.!t, 6.-).S
Ca|'<'niiir Inland. 000
Cai'iTo. Siorra, 17
Caplin lnlan.l, ;i95
Cnpp.'r Uhn.l, ll<i8
( aiuttn ll.'a<l, U.'il

Man.l, 415

v'.iptain Bank, 799

l»,iv. 072-3

Ihlan.l, 487

Paasiip,, :i80

Caracolito lal.^t, 02
Canpt'llas Inland, 1011
Cardcna Bay, 538
Cardoro Channel, 407
Cardin Chmnpl, 54

Ittland, ilca.l. arid

Li^'ht, 51-2, 5.3, 54, 66
Cardonal Ink*, 167
Careen I'reek, 359
Carey Island, 27
CarilKH) lioMtieMs, 456
Carniel Bav and Point,

231
Carmulo, Brazo do, 481

1271

INDKX.

Curm.n I«l»n<l. 1fl1-2, »M
Ormin, Kntrii4« il«< N. M.

C«rulin* «'h«nn<>l, 4IH

l»Un<i, l»:i>

CWrohtK' lnlitifU, i«.17. »'«>—
lUUH. I I'M)

U.^f. «oi

('4r|»«'nt«r II it. 4Ti
(nil lUtik. :><i

InWl. n»

- — ltli.i,:./>l

(\rrt- l*Ui>.|. i7
(Vtrnr* «1" I"* Vi<'in«, 1 71
OwTtenton lUy. «iHi. 4 M

I<.«f», Ail

CVrtiMr\ ■■'''

- . Vi>lr»ni>, 3

('nrt«r lUv, f>i\.2
("iul*nt Il.»f. H»2ft
('•rtwiiirht !<««inil, 4H(>
r««Mii Hiiv. S«>0

Camvh l»l<tn(i, 7, fl
Cmi^Jo il«v. .1«>4
Ciul, ViJ

H.«d. .•••:«

Moiininin*. i'>S

Vtm^*!*, Thi', iVH, 310
l'4u> liilM. :ui«
<°aa.>U« U*n<K (*<*•'■>
('•spanrio. IVmil, 179
('•Mmi UUn<i, 7''7
('««(Ani'n ItUniU aa<l illufl',

/il. iJ
(MbUo, Point. 3I«
(••Ulloa. Villii <!•> I<4, r.'i
iMtU r<4«t, Ml, 774

lUH-k. I Mi. ur..i

('natrMum, ('•!«'. 74<)
CaalneK lUv A l.iKhlh^>ii<».

7'.7, 7'':t-4

I'nint, 7«3

CaUlii IcUivJ. 4 iA
DiuWn Kxikt. I'>44
Cbt«iiiM ll.rU.ur. JJl

. r.iiMi, 41

Cat-tarr M'Miiitaitta. 4il
(Ulharinr l«lauU*. V>.t, :><•:>
(^tttutmc. «'.»f» . 7A7. 7«4
CatliUnM'l I'otnl. auh
('mtll« i>lti»li. .>4Hi
CkhUoii, ('«^, Ml

r.««t, ;i'.7

(>ivaU.w. I'uiiU >i- kx, i(7
( ATmIo. 0|n. Mill IhUa, i4
tVvo laM, I4>'>
CvUoi l-OitiiH. H
(Vnlml America, Cout of,

1 to
Oeal I'ntch. :•}«

ICxk. a74. 179

('<s:iU> Ara4M|H'l««n, lli.^
t'«<lr<ia i>laiui. VJi
( Wlt« Hn,{, 373
C'«4tto, 3IU
OniK«. Mount. 300
Vfnnii.t Ulan.L 199
U'Dlrc l(e«i, M\i, 3M6, 4 IK

(V«tn> l*Un<l.|Hi, »A«, Mrt.
67S, »i7

Itock. 403, 4H9

('.•nil.. ItUnJ, l7i-3
(Vmlvo, lit*
(Vn«v PiMik. I0|»
('•rr<M |>Un<l. ttf'i-i
l'<^ti lUv. l>>tl
( hU.r.lllirU.ur. \*71
<1«ii<kt.>>lr lUy. ••'•i
('h*<-k« KwrM UUixU, '>ti
i-tiiKoU ll«v. Hi
( h«rt»n. ('•|w ill'. N'^tf

* lixtTMnil I*!*. '■7i>
Oitir-^Tka < '«Ti', I'l.Srt

< h^K'f''*, Kio. I ''
riuun lal'tiiil*. INO, 4tS

I.IM*. 40i

(VikU'lint'iiit ll«v. (iV3

* kilAHi-nitiiiri, •>&

• tmUn Aiiiti, ('«!<«. Ii>43

• haJUfHpK <'..rn, IDJI
*'>i«l«*r« Anrh<ir«ir», 6!8

. r.-rl, 1.4!^

<'h iljui- Islnnii, Vhi.
(lMnw4U« KiTi'T a»l Mill*.

lit
i'Imm^ |l«r, IiUuil, Ml J

I'.int. Hi- 17

(tMmrU. lOtf

('h.%nu IViy, 440

( hitmiMo r»l«Mil, rt')9

, I'ort, »'J1, •rii

( '>wiM|i»nco. N4

( Imiii^ U>ir (Vuinfl, 4'JS

»'l.«nii«.l lUuff. <•:»»

IhIjuvIr, I'lfl

--- — - liiUaila Mid Hack,
.'.41

- I»l«4, 419

UJ-U. .1»<». <M. IV49

r»«il «oa. 101 i

MmI, 411, 41\ 436,
MA. .'.4:<

- H.-k, 3»\..414. 4lil,
.'>•"!_ ii«3

I4«cki. 4«7,40lt, 111,

1.1 'J
<'>tiip<>rit I •land, 14
<'ha|ilin. ('«|M<, 7 14
t'hnriM A<«1, '."J
( h.rl.« l*t«u>4. :ii9, 3ftj

— r Hit, cti.x

KiKkt, :l^l

t liartirtir laUiid, t».17, 'J4H

< htrvlxiia l:.<k. H63
( haa« I^iJk*-. -'73

< 'ha«int««fl, itoo

( hioMnt laUii.l. JO.t

( hat -Chann-l I'umt, 438,

4 ID
Chutham Hay, 9'i4. ".»i4

ChaiiniJ, .Wo

Ulajila, 40;i, 'jM

, Mount, 331

iVtnl, 41*7

, Port, flti* «;M

Sound, 440— 6W

rhallMMiiRtrail, AM, «I1 I ),

(.ill. f..'H
ChUlpm, ti^A
('h...k H.|iiint«. K'iH
I'hMrfiil, CafMi, n7'J
fhrhalia, Ki.rt. ^l^

Uivi-r. ail. 117

< h.'likiiff Htrait, '..'I'l, lii.O
(himainiM Mav, 37*1, 377
« hrpill.) Ulaiid, II

< lii'pii Kivrr, I i

t 11 |xin*ki.i, Cnjici, 7i''

< h.-Hirtan, HU

I li'rnolN.itr laland, l!<>7
I h.'<tak..(r Nl.t, r>H«

< hiMtar InlnlK. rJ4
Chi'lki) Uivir and lUir, }H0
rhnlyr.* point. 77'). i7tl

( 'ln-vrliit.-h M..iinliun, I'i^
• hia i»ki. "<Hi
('hiaiMM, HO
Cliil-iku, 7i)'i
('hii-a|i« Uiri-f, M
<'hicarani. Point, ItO

< hirhn«t><T Ulaml, fllO, (t:7
» liM;h»k.>(T, <',i;», 7H|

( 'kit haldinakui Vxlcini),

670
ChMhkoff. (%«p»., «70
Chi'f lltx^k. 441
Cliihiiahua. lU), I3.S
Chik lia-ilk Point, :ili
ChilrAt Inliit, Hirrr, and

IkUn.l 14,01(1-17

■ rit aivl Pr«k,8l7

ChilotH U)t, rtl4. I.I 7
t'HimtU, Kiri^, H«i
CtiinMitt'nanKO, 3
Chiman Ki*»r, 10

< 'lummo Hav, ?*.)
('hi«B«y lio.k, 913, ll.^i,

1 1 '>«
China, 1244, Iifi7, liCO.

lift.'i
Oiificho lUy and IiU^. 'il,

it
('Kin<*nd«Ka, i3
('l>inial«k<>y liay and CVpo,

ChinoM Hiviir. 317
(liiaook Putnl and Kpit,

.W4. 30A
Chioralo lli»»r, lOit
(t>i|M'Vtta IWy and Point,

^M.S'.l
Chipra I^Uad, H
('hmii-k<jUin iaUnd. 73H
('hiri<{uin Point. ttO, 01
('tiin.|iii IWy, i7-i>t
Chiniul laimnd, 739

Itrothrtra Utiind. 739

<'hi«nor« Paaaax'', A3H
Chianuivu Hay, ■>N
I'liMW.'l'l UIm. OIH, 0(9
CliivaUi Point, tit
Ch(ikMl P.a«u(«, MS
(li'.IU Mit, liil
C'iuliuundwiay Hound, 0(;0

,<".(M,

• IMS,

• •M

.«7'i

.•1|.\

•. :n 1

, r..i 1,

(ililt

. irrt,

j:7

. II

l-o. 7i9

»tii|. (J»i7

I'M

'•'I lUr, 3M0

iiiiUin, 12H

I. CO

III, fll». rt:'7

7N|

Viili.in.i,
. fi70

I.l.S

II. Hi

i|'!-17

'I IV.,k,8i7

>ll. M7

r, H<1

ID
»
»t3. II v.,

•nd Oupo,

17
•n.| Kpit,

Oit

m4 I'uint,

nJ. 7 IS
SO, a I

)<j

■tuiKl. 739

', iSH

». (519

inJ, 000

(txiliilM-ii, Rio, S
C'hiim^ Uti«ii<l, 'M
DKiiicht I'i'liiu ICtM'k,.1«
OviiiUira, M
( h<>->«i, H40
Ch'iriii I'l'iiiiiauU. <>•<)
('li<iiiJiiit«ki. ri|>«, 714
(')i'iiitni»t('iliu> ■■liliila, liiW.
(')irtiut» hitiiko l»liiiiiU, '.••ill
( hriuun lal'tiKi, SH(

H.inii.1, 1HW.7, «|J

ChriitiK lalou. 'ill)

— — ri*««ii»K.', fttis

C'hrutniiwi IlmlxHir, '.i.°>S

UUlxt, ttif.-H

ChrouiiU'iiiiff', <"i»|»', '171
('tiii'liitiiiiiiiK I'mk, I 1^

('llll<'hl't(ll, KlllN'(ll«i|lt lie, J7

('liiK-hican, Kn»uit«>l>i il' ,

.'>7
('hiM'hiinA<|iin Itivrr, 7

( lull lli|l|> lUv, I I'll

I liiit(<ti hiiik lUy, li'il-'i
Oiiihnnitil.ik lalnti'l, li7i'i
<.'liuri)(-rhi UUiiil, ll.'i7,

llta, litiO
(hiipiKKna, fl, 7
(liiirrh, (W. 394
( hutkiii lili-t. HIilt
Cirtrti laUiiil, \M
Ci.irvo liUwii.l. ]Ti, 125
CiiiHliMt. Kit7|

4<U-«4l
nnm Mitl, 441
Clsroncv UUiiil, U7

.I'tirt. 6»>-7

CUiiun UUinl, lo.i'J
1 l»rk. Tii

Uliuni, 3A4

Kivor, ;io5

Clam. Hio, 40

(.'UmmtI. 0|>«, And Li^lit-

hnme, 3*i.(-«
('I'llKip |U«<'h, H|iit. uiiJ

< 'Imiincl, ;iOl, :tlli
(.'UT<M|uoi Suuiid, 4UI, iVJ

— 425
n«*n, Cap.', r.47
(-l«ft laUn.l e07
CluinottU li-ir, .i.H, 360
('l(-u(>ittri' I-J<iiil. 11 |ii
('iio(>hit InlaiKl. 112
rUrk Ulitrxl, U41, '.US
C'lurki UUinl, 7'>2

liwfa. 4M-I

C'lifT Iil.n.l, 6.10

1.1. t, .'V4fi

riiiiit, .'iJS, 662, fir.7

Ci iMvia : '

AUaka, .'i'J.'-3

llritmh Columbia, 4'ii"-7,

11 til*
Caroliiio Archiji- Iiig),

OTi-r.
tiuUiil America, i-i

INDKX.

Cl.lMAm (nm/MHrW.
'■'•«>« liilaiiil, i.ijft
ConiniaiHlnr lilmiila, 7i:i
<MllM-rtArc>i>|H'lnK<i,!i.;.s-<)
<iu«ymK 1,10
.lH|M»n, 77'' -7Hi
Kiiimliaika, 'ii

K<><|l;tk, li6A

I'l I'm I»U

M iiiiiiii luljiii'la, lOI'J

lull
Mi/. iiinn. rj.'.;j

M.xir.i, \Vi«l ('(.ftitt. Hl.j

<'r. kfiiri ■J7''
l'r>l.il..v Ul.m.U, Tii'i
Wmi"i|| (^liarlutlu UlatnU,

Hull Itlia, II.V MM. 120
Sill Kruriiiw^i, i'ii-\
.»<;illilwii h UIiiikIiI, Illi;7.S
Tutity, Uiilf nf, 7'i7s
\ illiriiUV.Tlliiullii, is'.i- i'm

Vluliv..i.t,.k, 771-J
\VHKh>iif(ioii Xi'trit'iry ,
27'J

i"li.) Itiy, hM
lv.« k, •17

l'li|>|i'rtun Uliuiil, lujH.'.i,
lJu2

Cloiik lUy, 5HA

Cluiiil laUii.l, 1012

t l.r.r I'Kiiit, 411U, 4Ul

( l.iwii l;.<k, .'147

( inni|> Ihll, 7'.i4

( IiimUt ICTia, .M6

i,mI Jt/Mttii, 12, 2N, t;7.
l;iii, a.Ki, :i4«, .!«■<, nni,
471, 'i.ci, .'1711, ''M, Ci..;,
i'mI, 7011, 7*'J. 7''i). Ti.^,
i«17, i<6;t, H7II, M'j'j, i»o7

I'.ul lUv, t;,-il

ll.irl«ur,»iO,40l, 404,

464, 4i;6-7, M)7

Ifliind. 173

• J'oiut, iH.t, .171

('oHlfaman, Hiu. 1 113

Cu.'tit MlillQll, !)■')•.>

NipjOi', .514

Codntir ( K luiii'l, 41 1
(Vfini, Arrov" tlil, 22
(Wtii.ri It.x'.h, 1 :»ii, lli.S
CiH'hraiiu, t'apf, 7Mi

^ — -, I'lHiit, il4-i

Ouciiia Mniul, lo'.l
(•ixkhtirii, t<ii|i' , l«7
CiMi'.i-iiiit C'uvo iuii Lit;lit,
1U74, I07.'i

ItUnJ, 11171

Cocoit r>iiy, I.!

1,1.11.1. '.I21-0, 1042,

1217, 12i7

I'Mint, 9

( VkI U..'l9, i'>Jl>

CwdlUh luH'k, .J'J.^
('.■•rail I'.iHiMmf, 1(117

(\4)\i\ lliiilioiir, ii:;-^, I li,'),

1 1 3t'>
IhIiI, 377, 4 I'l

— , Muuiit.anJ l;uck, ;Ki^

Mir,

''..ffin n.Hk, m

• ''iifhl III Am ti'iraifi'

UiH:k, .'1 1'J
I'oiIhi l«lanil, Vl-iO
l'ii|iit<'j»'.|iiii, 70
<'<iki', I ■iiii, oil)

Colli llllV, lillO

rolimrt.'si, 1(14, 10.;. 10*1
— ~ Volcano, .12, lol,

I III!
<■ llin){wo.«l Chiinni I, 4HJ
<-,||j.oii lliy, 17:1

• '•<lil«tt, Ch|h<, ainl lliiy, JilO
IhIiiikI, SSI

Him t, II (.')

I'olomliiH, I'liil...! StUua of,

»"ii»t(if, 1, Ii ^31
C.ilon, 1:1
('.,!,. I nila, 1:11

l-laiid, Iii;i

, I'liiiU, I III

C'liliirndo, (iirro, 1711

, .MMrro, 1 II

I 'ink, l.Vi

I'liinl, 6, l.i.'i, l.'.H,

162, I 111)

, Kio, 1J(», M.^.J

C IjKiva, l'.,iiit, 0(13

• oltiiii, J 10

roliiifiliia Kivir, 27s, '^^7

— :ilu
('•iliimii I'lak, 11

("olvill,', CulM!, «Ilil UllllJ,

■.Uh, :l.r.'
Col VI 11... K.,it, 310
CoU'iB I'ummi^', 317

Ui.kii, 310

CoIwikmI K*rm, t'.i'J

Inlrt, 4o3

CoiiKli'lu, IliO

, H.H.a (lu, Isfi

Cocr.ayiiifiia, 3
(>iMll»T Kock, •'il'.*
CiiiiimniiiliT I»laiiilii, 7-' I
( '■'iiimi-nriraiiiit Hay. :i:;7-s
( '•iiMimnll, Capi , nOS. .'ili
(/•'tiim.rsim Inland, lOlG
( oiniix, 4 7i>
Ciimjinny liland, 710
Conipt'iii Ulaml, .iiil
CiiiiHitrollir Hay, {il2
C'lmto lli'idtu Hay, KSit
Coni'epcion, I'oint, mil

Hay, 1. '>■'), l.'i7
, r..int, !inJ

Lii^hthuii.iic, 2\7, llT'i

, Su.rra, 217

ConohaKiia, (30, lil

— ,(Jull(ii', 3, 'i7i"i(

VcU'nU", ■•-I

CiincUaiiiiita Iiiliiitil, .'.S
ConiluKi'iii Islaii'l, i>"l

— , I'ort, (il'.'-C.'O

Ciinconi Heft, MH
C.iiic rlia, 4'>, 'i'l, fi^
Cone Uliiiil, IJ.), 'lil

Ulit, 'il.\. II ".I

Iskt uud Liij'tilhouso,

1278

INDEX.

• m

C)oiM> Monntain, 64 1

p. inf. liM

K«>k. ill, »tfi

Convjo linjr, ««
UUnd, 25

I'oint, 181

Conjpo, I't'iTxi, S»
Coii^iM Ulami, 1120
Conical Ul.'t, SA7
Cci«n<-1 IitliniU, f>f»9
Oonnin l^HJt^»49, MO
Gimo UliH, '2\
Ccm<|u«n<r lUnk. SOO
Ooni-vK K-ck, 147
('oimpiouou* iUufT, 8<i')
Ui>n«tiinoo lUiik, 401

CV.vo, *'.»', Ill'"

, Mi'unt. 341

('onuUntin Uiaiid, yf*.**

I unatAntiiu' lUv, <>1 -, Tl""

lUy. <■
('»po, 6>!<
lliuUiur,

"•»,

. I'ort, 1019

( 'onutit^itiun. Mount, 302
(\inLi>l<<r« Ulatitl and

Chann.-t 7. ^
C'uiitn (OAla MounUiiit,

2iO
Conlrwu Isli tii, 23
ConMnn r.-.ili. 42V, 431
ConvfrsKui. i'<iint,2i'>
(.Vjowsy iUti, iX hh
r«ijk AiK'humaii-, 1104-.'i

C»H», 4«>^>. 443

liik-t 6l»i,64<>-4, 1179

laland. yi7, y2\ y4 7

ToMJl. 1JS2

("<«p.T lnl«t. 3'.i3, .')i3

Island or Un

tkcts.

UOii

Kl<-0>. 1146
Itwtl, 374

CopaJi* Ittrer, 31 7 -H
Copalui Hirer, ^14
Cuppttr li..y, .'>7s

I»i«nd, lus, •j!«o,721,

722-:t, lUi"

I>lnitd«, 574

k»>«r. '.12

Ouiiuill.r HarUmr, 97G, y77

— — IhIaHIk, 'Mi'

1»1. 1, 'j'j'j

k»»tr, iiS.'i

OtraJ Itltutdt and Htt/t,

Sirmeittr*, QroutK, ^c,

Olfi '.'22
Coral, It.«a. 1033
Curr«rado lUick. 34
Corldl Hank, 26,*, 2M-7
(.'ordo%» lUv, ''^Kj

< h'aniifl, 30.'), 372

, I'ort. lAW, t;n

Coroa Hirait, 7h3
Ooriato Island, :>\

, I'ort, 3, «f>, AO, 51-7

C<<rmor«nt Hnv, 30<i

■ IcAnd. '■Ill

IWk, 'Oil

Cornwallia hmy, 1090

laUada, 1033

, I'omt. fi07

CoronaUuD Ialait<l, 159

I»liMI<l», l(il>

I»lut« and liockf,

20.1
('<irv>iuiti<m Ikland. 60A
Corral Ti(trr*, Punta di>,

236
CormlM HnrVionr, HI
(Virrwnl<«, Cajx', 110, 118,

1217
('>>rn<r IiUtnd and Harbour,

1012-13
( V.r»o, C^ns IH.^
(V.rto* Mand, 4S0, 400

, 8i« of, 1 29

Shoal, 21'.J-220

Cttoa, ru«rt<...'.8
Comma Itltiki, IICO, It'll
C«rv«il.N 2&I
C'.rvi-lati'i Hock, 112
(Vsoda, H2
<<«<^utiut, (Jtilf rf, .'i?

-. r..int, .'>'.!

- Viilcano, 3, 51,

6H, .'.0
C<.iatu (Ud Iialadmo, 70
Ikioa. ('«i«it! of, 1, 3, 5,

.'.1 44, 117J
liock, S.''^, .Ill

T<ji«-a, 41*

CiMt«!lo Hccf, i>M)
Co'o, Rio, 32. 34
Coitani Mot^i, 4 7 ft
CuulKuk Island, CiA.I
Ctjunt H'.'idf>n Uli»rid«, U.'i'.'
CouiitoM, I'mnt, 640

( <.up«-irillo, 343
Courl<.najr Uircr, 47»i, 47h
Couterd«n, I'^iiit, 014,

O.'l
CoTp liar, 661
CoTfiland, 343
(ViToU Itlartd*. 968
C*.v. y Inland, XS.S
Cowrll Ijlind«, t*6H

CoWRIlt, .')H0

C^wiiciiin UarNmr, 372,

37i
Cowhu lUy. 366, 371

Kir«r, 308

C"'X InLllid, '13

I'oint, 41'.'. .'>15

Coyot* llav, 1 'i7

ro'int, 100. ItJH, 17<)

Ifcxka, 166

C»iyii<«, I'm* ..f, <i'i, 100,

101, loi
l.»u«n K>ck. C2.'i
Cnwn.ft Uliuid, .MxJ, 501
Crni^ ( hnniiel. l.'»4

, I'.iUU, 6o2

(rant) 1«UU, .MO

Nh Mil, yJ2

( 'ru:»town Poir.t, 'il8

< 'r .<»v, Cnpi'. 774

C rvat'uiil bay, J22. 328

CnMront City lUy and

Lifchlhouwi, 267. 373-4

Rock*, 276

Inl'v, 676

I'oint, 37tt

Crcaciunlo Uland, 181
Croapo Island, 1124
Crt'nton hlaiKl and Light,

121, U3, 126
Cri<l^> lalandii, 661

I'aMAK'S 644

Crillon, (^po, and Lii(h'i-

houM, 76''-4

, Mount, 626, 636

('ns|iin \Uxk, 367
Criiailliw, Capo, 1010
Cromwoll. M<>«nt, 1018
CriM.k* I'oint, 280
CVooao Inland, 019
Cn<«i, Calm, 626

I»iol,»6«

Point, 629

— NmiimI. C1<», 021-6

Crown
1140

Island, 101 -J

liJpt, .'<61

Croik>r, Mount, 976

Vraut' Rock, .Vt'.'

Crur. Ivtiri>oa, 141

Cuiwaiil Poak and Point,
'.»6, 07

Cualcoman, 104

Cuchnritas K-. f, 110

Cuchilla (irujid-.', 2i''4

Cutebra, 14

, ?.^, 42

Ciiliaonn and Rivor. 130,
132-4

CulniM point, 646

( 'umbra d>> la* A unit
Mountain, 237

CiininiinK, P.»i»it, 634

Cumshrwa liiht, iKbt, and
li^Mkis i78

Cun'MH^bam IsUndit. 'I'Ji

- Piiiun^\.', .'i')4

Cuot) Inlands, '.••."■>

Curr Inland, 1122-3

Curn<at Islitrul, \<jih

Ci «u«»T«, 11'.'4-12I8
(«vi«<ral U«niiirk<, 1101 ;
NoTtb lvi|iritnri'tl ('nr-
rv»t, 1 !'.»•'> -7 , Kjua-
torialt VnnO-r-* 'iiriwnt,
11J7 — 1202 , lb. Karo
Hiwo. or JaiKtiw**' Cur-
n-nt, l-2"t-lJ; Tbo
OyaSiw.H 1212; Kam>
clMtka OimTnt, 1212 ;
K<n of Ja|Mn. lil.t :
H«aof (»kh<>Uk. 1213 ;
Itrhring Kia, 1214 ;
Coast of ('jiliforrn'*,
*c., 1216; W.*t r,M»«t
of Mexico. 1217
.Mask a. Coast of, 63 'J,
IIHO

Curronl, 1212,

1216

n»y and
2fl7, 273-4

Kock», 276

6T(i
t, 3:))
nd, IHI

124

•ad Light,

MI
644
and Lii(h;.

•>2A, 636
67

lOlO
It, 1U18
NO

I;*, '..'i-.s
d, mi 'J

y:«

IV
41
and Point,

llu
h 264

Hiv.r. 1,10.

14«
1m Aunui

I, .134

t, Ml, Hlld

Inndu, .):i4

-l.'ht
irk^ 1194 ;
I'lri^i Cur-
7 ; Kju/t-
•r-<'()rrwit,
; 111. Koro
mtii-ac ('ur-
-l^: Tlie
!I2; Kaiii.

wit, i:ii ,

III, 121.1;
Uk. liia ;
m, liU,
<'«lifortn<,
V.,nt r<Nut
-'17
'if. f.t'J,

unt, 121.',

CORKIMTH — ffmtinufd.
AI«*utuui lalandii. 1213
BdkBr iHUnd, W.\
Califtiriiiii. Cow*, of. 1216

, (Jiilf o., i:U

CaroliuuArrhip<iUgo,'J74,

»7()
Ontral Amaricn, 5
Flouriou'a Whirlpool,

1217
Ui'.Utrt Archipelago, 939

1200
Helen Roof. 1026-6
Jap*n Stream or Curr«>nt

(mm) A'uro Siwo, bolow).
Kamchatka Currant, 917,

1212. 1:14
K'xiiak, 1211
Kurilo Curront. 1214
Kuro Hiwo. Th... ,Vi2,

7K2,«:i2, 8»?. s.'ij, 11 k;-

917. 1147, 1169, 1203 -
1212
La roroudo Strnit, 7'>7
Lowur California, West

Coant, 17'>-9
Lu-rhu Inland*, 1147
Mariana Inlunds, 1040,

11141, 1190
M.irtluU Archi|>rU);o,

942. 1200
Mi'xico, Wo»t Coa»t of,

1217
Oya Siwo, Tho, 864, 1212,

1214
yii(H«n (•harlottoId«.,5:i
8«ndwi(h UUnds, lotis.g
TarUry. (Julf of, 1211
Tsuipir Strnit, HMi, 1213
Vanc<)u%Tr Ulund, 390-2
Currin Chaiin.l, 770
(.'iirtiH IViiit mid Kock, Ki6
t'uatodiua iUvur and Point,

112
Cu«t>>m llouie Point. 622
C'uttUi Iilota un.I Uocka, 442
Cuyl.ir lUrlwiir, 224. 226
I'y'lopt Mouiit.iiii», 1021
Cy ort*» lliiy, 121

— ^' ItUiidi K.i'f. 346.0

, I'oint, 230, 211

l>f«daluii I'liiUHi;''. 600
IWnlft I'U'hI, Ul.j
piiiUi tiiiii, S31
I>tiit.ut4(i i>aiiia Slututi, SM
Dsihd niiirn, S'jti
Dnikoku oima. N()4, 865
Inut) «»ki, H49
Diilco P.Miit. 337
lUl.'rri.n Mot, 7fi8
I),4ll I'itrrh. 629
DHllaN Hank, 111

. M Hint, 170

I>nlloi, Th., 310

DilliH Maud. (iOC.

!>aliii I'uint iind I.i»()il, 730

Daliyiiiiilr. C.ij«', 7'>2

Dauiuii l)ay, 19. ^0

INDKX.

Damea, Port do, 20
Dampior Island, 1019-20

Strait, 1018

Dana Inlet, 67V
Dunaidu Uocka, 16
Hincono ULmd. 1042
l)anK<T Inland, 1035

— Islind*, y()9

Iitl..t, 1024

PaUh. 632

Point, 013

— Keef, 376, 378

— Kock, ,347, 371,412,

416, 433. 763
h, A»,447,fi0, 461,

573

Shoal. 369. .'.U

I >an>^>'ruiii. Puirit, 661

U.*k. 764, 7.55

limiii'l Islandi, 9)6
D'AnvilU Gulf. 767
1> uikiitti UUnd, 161, 169
Dirby, Cip«, 6U|
Diiri.n llikr)>.:>iir, 6-7

IitthmiK ci, I

Dark ' ovo. 4h7

i»knd, 422

Pirkor Inland. 1125
I»irt \UM-h, 1019
Uirwiii .Sound. 67"). 676
I)'AfiaiiM Point, 764
Diviinjxirt I'oint, 616
I»>nid I'..iy. 27-8. 20

Chiinnpl. 417

Iiikvi<l>i>n K'>ck, 316, 352
Duvis lUv, 162

Lfland, 911

PnviHon. I'.iint. 699
Diivyd.iir Inland, fi.S2
DiiwHon lnUnd, 961

Point, 635

Duv, Point, 627
DraJmin Id.tnd. 212, 213
Mtt. 646

I) rtd Tret! Point. 679
Driin Citntil, 622
D.Mno I'mndifi, P.jrt, 770
1 ».»««!!( l^ik.'. 602
Pi'cap.ili!! Itoot. 9S9
iKiitiir Inland, 16.1, 160
|)( roptioii Ch iniu.'l, 121

■ M.t, 144

Pii'S, 422

• I'awaK"'. 313, 34 4

I).H-ii>rta I -land. 1 12.'i
l».'ti«i.>n. Cijx), 6t),').i;06,612
Do. kpm l.Hltnd, 1110
D« (Joiircy iKlitndH, 1S7
D»'«p Hav, 476, 62.H, 627,
\\M, 1163

C.ivo. 376, i82

InU't, 439

- PrtM. 421

Sea Hli;ir. 602

DiM<p.w«l«r Hay, 496
Di.tir Hiirliour. 3G2. 1()3

Uland, 28, 121, 606.

624

IdlDudd. 40.S, 112. ll'i

1277

Door Lagrton, 334

lloMud, 662

Defiance, Point, 338
De Fuca'i Pillar. 326
Dpffsr, Cape, 768
De Horsoy laland, 640
Duik Inland, 1124
Dtdaroff lalanda, 681
Didarov»koi IJay. 667
Dolawaio Bank, 1116
DoUada Point, 183
1). liiile, Capo, 761
Dolui<o Puiat, 673
Donbigh, Cape. 692,691
Dpn^ftm PaMttgo, 1014
Donman Island, 473, 475-0,

477
Donnia liock, 345
Denny Island, 523

■ kock, 616

Drnsitt of Ocean Water,

1210-11
Dont, Capo, 763
Drtparturu llay, 471-3
Dki'TH of thu Dciun, 1232-3
Durbioskoi .Strait, 671
Dorby, 461, 464
DijK'jjnso Point and Bay,

202
Doaeartcs, Point, 43
Doachntjy, Capo. 703
D.»»ertod Pay. 487

Cr.H!k, 411

Do-^Tl^^a'ia Island, 1002
D. Hima. 901
Dt.Dolada. 0«p«>. 48
Di'H.dation .Sound, 489-490
DntpoaM I. •.land, 41
Dt^otitution, C.i.\n', 762
DoiM ruction InUnd, 119
Duvaatation Channol. 6L'3

— Inland, .i.il

Devil UiKk, 616, 1135
D.vild Point, 641
IXvil's Uid«o, .'jyS-O
Ttiumb Mountain,

(il)9
De VrioH, Cape, 8.)3

Strait and Cape,

740. 741

D.'woy (.Ihannel, 192
D..yoa Kivtr, 617
D.'iirna IsUnl, 777
Di.tblo, Point, 171'. 244, 1046
Diiunantc Point, lUl

.Sho:il, '.IS

Diimond, Cap.-, 827

Hill, 1697

Point, .164

Diana Island. 4i)8

Shoal, 912

Strait, 719

Dick, Mount. 486

, Port, 649

Dickoni Point. .')66
Dickuntton Point, 605
Di^by Island, 661
Diir>?f» Sound or Hay, 036,

617

1278

INDKX.

IMrfC Toint, H7
DiUon Point and n*ck, 507
ritn)4a Point, 647
Dinner Toint. S68
Pino y*mii. 80'i
Diomixle KLunU 6"8, 7ot<
Piomf*!** Inlot, 7T'J
l>ionyMu», llounU 716
l>in»ct4on ninff, 733

, Mount, 7<»8

Stnd-hiU, 144

l^iHii-rioKt: —
Anjur, Uulfof, and Riror,

7f.<i

AvMtrhn IUt, 731-4
liarflsy i>ouud, 411, 4i:)-

416
Hellmfrhtim Hay. 347
Ihi jfu Nadii, '<t'0
Ilr uffhton Stmit, iOft
CMtriei 11. y. 7^4
CUycMiuvt Sound, 42ft
rolunibm Uirrr, 303-4
l»ii«covory raiuvip', 4t'7-8
K»j«rnni« Iiil. t, 43fi.7
(.i.'otjri*. Stmit of, 4«<.i-l

HikktHlato. 860
llannid NadA. 805
llaro Ktrnit, 36.')-6
Il-M)uiat IUiU>ur, 42C
llilo ll«T, 1074-7
iliu^ lUk\, 808
Hir»do a6HU\ 88{»
Hcnolulu, 1097-0
Ji'hnituiic Strait, 501
J\ian dtt Fuc*Slr»it,, ■524-5
Kii Channel, HIS
Kurusitiik no ti'to, 798
Kvuiiuut SouniL 4 40
l-ioyd, IVirt, 1132-:i3
Ilfi.ico-auu* I&IunJt,

llCl-^
MiddU IIato ChAUDi'l,

3. '.5- 8
MiU>»Bk Sound. ■')27
Ndframki, l>0.'>-6
Nn^iraki t<j SimonoMki,

ttl3-l.')
N«iu»o IUrl>oar, 876
Nitn&iino lUtbuur, 470
N«).tui-kiang, 115'i-3
Nootkn Sound, 4,11-2
NuckathU Inlit, 433-4
do (imB lUrliour, bid
ttwan IJ«y, HJl
I'Knamn, 1» I'i
rortiir I'sM, 3Ho-6
Uu'<tMno Hound, 460. 2
St l'«ul Hurlxjur, 66h'J
St. Vinmrl Ck»»i>«'l, KOO
l<«n Krnnciaco Unrkx;ur,

■i.'.(i-.13
Simixtn lUrbour. 828-9
himont>» ki StrkiU 7U3-6
Silka Sound. C31-J
► kilfgttt.' Inlrt. '>H0-81
K|- X Strut. Sh9
S itil r),«ri!i.!, 492
buwo Nad«, V.ib-6

DlRirTtONa — fontinmetl.
Trincomalit (."hjuinol,

;t>*4-5
Tdifmr Stj»it, 8(ll-3
Vng* Channul, 840, 941
Y.^o lUv, H40
Yixlo, (lulf of, 832-3,

S39-840, 848
Yiolo to TtugiU' Str»it,

S.>4
Yukuhama, H4O
I)iit4ppt>intrn<.'iil, Capo, 757,
761,776

, Capo, and

LighthoukC, 301-2

UUnd,U39

Pnt<t'.pr Ii>l)tnd, lti'>
l»i»(o», r> Ul.^nd, 402, <190
I'aaaa^e, 322,

376,

4y4-s

, r-.rt, 330-31

lU-rkd. .S27

IHtnoy r.'int. 367. 371
!>i»r»oh. Mi>unt, lois

ki' untaina, 667

iMsppnan Point, 107
l>i»poauion Ixland, 68
I>i>t^nt laUnd, 628
Itiiii. C..V.', 430
1)1 ion (lutmirl, 6AR

Ki.tntiio*. 500.61

Wland, 647

Piyi lima, ^08
I>^itur«, Cap«>, 766
l)jwu> ttina, 81;2
I'jiKu bana, 80 1
iKiUf, Punt*. 140
iKK-kyard lalanu, 449
Uodd Narrow*, 305,

386-7, 473
PaMaica, 565

Uo. k. 664

IVxiKtr («T«\ 411, 412
Ikxib Paaa«(?c, '.'.'>()

korka, 863

Dor laUnd. 677. 944
I»o|ttuh Ilajr, ;'>6
iKiK-ialmuD iii vt, 617
I>f)luBit« Narr-wa, .'.74
DulorM liav aud Point, 164
, liJada, 319

laland. 1140

IMpktn laland. 640

- Pu.nt, 337
Doaiakura aki, 818
lK>ai» P.«k. 6-<*^
lK>mwK-«l Point, if,
hum l4-d.'e, i4''>

Pi.int, 641

lKi«a >l«na Ijtxain lal^iiJ,

; !"'«

I'aula, EaUm. 51

ItufiiyHl Hoad, 6u6

l»<.ra lUf<, 683

l>i.rti, Ihiturci, or Uurv,

Port, loJ4
I)<i B'lna, HH»5

u^-ubit: !'!iff. r.n. 33i

Ut»d. Hj6

I>ouUoItUuid,418, 432, 416.
913

I»l«t, 444

I1.I. t Point, 563

Poak, 148

lUwka, 816

PoiiMo-hntdrd Korka, 295
I>oiitito-topped Mountain,

1164
Doii^ndaha, (\ip«. 748
l>ou(fanffo«, Cji|«>, 747
I>'ii)<laa, Onpo, 660, (',62.660
Channel 367, 534

Harliour. 6HH

Inland, 60(5. 611-12

-, MimnI, 366

- lUvf, 1138. 1139-40
I>ournovo lalot, 7''9
l>oT« Uo.f. 8S2. 914
I)owaK«r liland, 527, 629,

631
PiMtnoa. Point, 470
Powna P> in», 761
I) >wa..t l{<'(<f, 1113
I»o>l- Uland. 6(is, .'.10
PiiiK'on Ko-ika, 276
Drake Pf.r, 204. 2'.1, 265
PntkM I»Un<l. 1116
l»Tayt<in HarUiur. 34K
Krt'w Hwbour. 490. 491

H..k. 3t.8

Provi.iiuia C'o»«>, 676
Druir-noiid lalanil, 93)',, 911
Drurv Ir-l.1t, 603
I>ry hay, 036

Mind, 1123

I>ii<ic laland. 6.50

l>u<k laland, 747

i'uilt'inaina lal.nd, 1020

PuB, Point, 602

l)iiK"«, Cap*. 'i'<3

I>uj?«y Trouin Iteof, lor.l

Dui and I,iKhlhoua», 7.0,

767, 760, 1184
Duko of Clarence Strait,

696, 698 604, 606
York lalandi, 698,

600
DuUe, liulf of. 3J-4, 1267

, Uivor. 97

l)unia. Point, 214

Duman lUy. 496. 497, 553

Canal, 602

laland, 608, 925

H,Kk, 322, 326

Itiiiiran'a UliU, 2iS, 262
I>uudaa liay and Point, 62>
I.land, 04.^, 11 tj

Itlanda, 660

Dunkin i;/>«f, 090
Donite n.>ad, 397. 398

laUnd, 330

h.Kk. 322. I2S

I>ui*ri-^, C«il>e, 1(118
Iiiipviruy lalanil, 000
I»lo.. 07H

liii Pttit Tbou^n Shoal,

IXJ

I Iiurango. 130

"«.«22.««,

iiit, 663
8

Hockii, 295
MuiinUiii,

'"• '■•Vi, OGO
■'-:, 534
Ass

'"'■. (511- i 2
Id!

•*. ii3a.<o

■ lU
14
-5-7, fiL'O,

.'.10

1^74

yac, oil

lO'JO

r, 1061
•«. 7J0,

•7. iia

D24

I't. 62a
J

■f»o«!.

Dnrotir T'lnml, "017
D'l'rvilU) I.UikI, iC.M, 1020

, Toint, 1022

Piitoh n»v. 673
Duval r.iint, .')07
I>iiwamiMh Itiiy and l.ijfht-

hoiiKc, 33.').ti
Hind nil. 1 KivtT,

.'135
Diixlmry Point and Utof,

2£4
Dyk.. I'l.int, 3!J7. 398
Diinoiu-ttifhiinncl, MOO

KukIp linrliour, 336

liliind, .lau

K«p Iniiind, lOiu-i-T
Kitr luliind, li'O.)
Eiiritkong Inland, IiUl.

1013
Enrl I)Hlhou»i»< Shoal, IdO.l
, l,nk«, 27.'>

l^no, 4U9

Kan lol.t, 1130
Ka»t Hav, H92

i\[m, 6US, 708

Kniranco Ht<«>f, 438

Fkiu Inland, 9'JO

Kiiroland, 653

PaiiMff<>, 449

I'oint, 4^8, 572

Ilook, 442, 525

Honnd. 3'i2, 363-4

tUiitcm lloKptiurut and

I.iKhtm 770 2

Eniiv ('n.'k. 438, 440

Kiu'riiik InIoU. I0u3

Klukdon Inland, 965

KUko, Miiiint, 737

Kliiaima, 814

KlnHu jiTns, 806

K»-.n IiiUn<i(i, 'm;1, 0< H

Krho 11(11 Iviur, '>7ii, ,i;7

K.kh..lni li.l.t. t,:tl

K<ii|'M> Uland, 543

F>ola Cntk, 2H0

K.da van>«, 817

KdfM Mand. 5U2

K.l.fiJWW r.iidt, 581

hAl^i'imUt, (.'•I"'. and

M..unl, f.lO. 6.>H. 631, (;3.t

Kdi/. Ilook and l.iK>it, 3.>,

3 ."J
Kdinuiid. Toir t. 520
K'lwaid, ra}*, t')25

, I'cint, 522

l;..f, 516

KJyp ra».<«K<'. '^•'^0, 567-8
E, 1 KiHif, 5ti4

Hirer, 2f 8

KSinKhnm Inlet, 415
KUK I .land, t.'ja, 1105

— Iiiand and Kocke, 516-
616

Ul«t«, 674

F»(«rup IitUndi, 958
KgmNlio I (land, 9)8
K^orkoviikui, 67''>
K^jTrkiuot lUj , "18

INDEX.

Kidannoo, 697

Kil Mnlk Island, 1011,

1013-U
Kirok Mm.l, 963
I'ljott Inliind, 955
Kkarmii Inlmid, 738
Klat I Inl.'inds, 1000
i:il"iw Iflct and I^)ckH, 414
Kl Coxo, 218
Kl 1 Inl. t, 339

Island, 315

I'llcaiior t\jVf, 637

I'f.int, 370

Kl.'im, Ca|w, and liay, 43
Klid.' Isliind, 196
Klizvi Dome, 437

Ifll.md, 317, 940

Tort, 434, 4;;5.6

KlirjiKth, Capo, 649, 750,

1213

Island and Hock,

638

Inlandii, 967

and )'t'iiry Roef,

1156

Kl Juco Point, 26, 27
Klk ll(iv, 490. 497
— - City, 291

t'rt^k, 296

UiTor, 270, 283

r.lla Island, lUOl
i;ilrn lliiy. 381

- - Inland. 572
Kll.'nlmr,^, 281
Kiln.', I'liiht, 305
Klliot Hhv, 336
Klliott Ixl.ind, 538

Point, 562

KUis, Point, 3o5, 607

livvt, 882 WI4

Kiinnrt! |gl.in<ls, 9i>6
Kliiistoni- Ko, Ic, 814, 840
Kliita and Kivor, 132
Klpynehyn Mountain, 172
K nri»flon, T'lmt, 646
Klwh,, Uiv.r, 328
KmctiiiKS, 111 12

Knima Harbour, 716
l'a.s»ak;i . 501
Kniiii'lnK'ui, lol2
Kiiii'iro t'lty, 287
Kni K"*">< '*o7
K'll Hii:. 540. 805
Kiul'Ttiy Islands and Bank,
998

Kndi'mio Harbour and

I.i^bt, 863, 06 t
Endicott Hirer, 615
Kiidiin){oino Core, 758
Kiijfano, Cnlxi del, 628
Kiiff lougbin May, 719
Kii^liah Kay. 465-6

Harbour, 929
Kii)cua«< Inland, 702
Kiiiwftok Ixisodn, l>'i9
Kiinit'lian, >'»\o. 717
Knivnada Point. 201-2
Kiisillada ^^lands, 27
Enterprise liettf, 381

1279

Enlrrprizn Channel, 401

I{p<)fg, 368

Rntrada Point. 182, 198
Kntranco Anthorna-o, 408.

411

Hank, 405

H(>ad, 791

Inland, 412, 447,

512, 021, 6.30,632
Island and Light-

houso, 469

Islet, 577, 94C

Mountains, 446,

«7

651

Point, 612, 022,

Uocf, 435, 558

Kock, 474

Shoal. 360

Entry Cone, 518

-; — Peak, 561
Enybarbor Island, 962
Enylameej Inland, 964
Eourypyg Islets, 1003
Epiphany Day, 659
Kquipalit-J Hock, 156
EralKiu Island, 1161
Ercmitancfl lalands, 10I6-17
Erie, Mount, 345
Erikub Islands, 952, 95S
Ernikons; Island, 1013-14
ErraUUi, Cape, 847, 8IH
Kru Island, 965
K«armi, Cajio. 857, 863
EttajM- Point, 597

Ko. f, 376, 377, .500

ivocfn, 553

Encheran Island, 89
Eaobscholtz lianin, 699

I^land8, 963

Esvlavof, Kio dos, 74
t^ondido, Puerto, 111,

U'.O, 169
E^iuimla, 7H
Exparta, 38
E^partal Island, 26
E8[wriburg, (.'ape, 699
E.'<ptinui2ii Iiil.'t, 434-7

Sound, 404

Espinoza Ann, 436
E'p'.ritu bonto, liarra del,

67
I»land,166.

Iti7
Enpnola Island, 21
En<)uiiuult Harbour, 3r7>

399
Enquinas, Ilio do las, 33
K<ningtoa, Port, 539, 540
i'lrtJiiiiK. Haio d', 7J9
K»tApa and Inland, 102, 103
Estero An(.•ho^a^Jl•, 38, 39
tjitoros lUy and Point, 229
Estovan Inland, 6ound, and

L»igt<, .144-5
—Point, 426, 428,

429
Esther laland, 646
Kstiva Island, 17

IMO

TNDRX.

Kul iKlaixU, 991. 993
Kichon. Tort, 6*3-4
Ktmnloi Point, 630
£t»lino, (^tpp, Mid Stnut,

— HarlKiur, 601

Manii f.O.T

EtoUouium llav, 718-0
Kttnck Rock, WO
Ku)(t<nu City, 300
Ku^cnic ArchiiK'liifpi, 770
KuphrcMjmtt llook, 1 1 38,

1130
Eiink«, 270
Kurvnliit Hock, 7BH
Kvaioiik Inlanil, 1001
Evan* Arm, 'I'i'i
-—— lUy. 4«i
KTdokti'i UUndit, 686
Evening I 'Ut, 102.)
I'oint, A3C

Uotk, 520

Err«t«chry, Ciipp, 660
F.wa, 1095

Kwinjf IlnrlKiur, 2»3
KxjKiliUoo B«y, 767, 76»
KxituM-4 Ann, .')37

- - lUy. S25

Kvi vama I'oint, 835
Eynt'w, MottQt, lOil

Facpi, Taint, ldi4
FxKai" I'■l•nd^ '.'34
Kair llnrU.ur, •I*'*, *3»

Haven. IllOA

Fairway Bank, 876

Uock, 5i,V 698

FairwHUhi-r, C^pu, tad

Mount, 62.'i. r>3j
Fai* Ul-ind, U>0 4
F^iu l»let^ 'A>6, M9
FaUlt'p laUiid. :Uu4, lOA
FitUlu Inl<nJ. Iu03
FaUu lalet, '.«0i
Falcon, Cap<.', and Uock,

■2»».6
Falcone, 1047
Faliao Itli'l, '.i99
Falipi Ulaud and Daak,

1000
Ftluu|x<t laland, 079

FltlM ll«\ , l'.»6

Falae Alam)>, H y of, AHJ

Hay, 17U, iiu, 3<><l

— — Capatiin Head, lliil,

1152
— — rhannol, 435

C^ini- HiU, ■■ «t»

Vrvxk, 466

Cordon laiaiKl, 57

■ I)iinK«*nwi>t, 32H

)'?){ Iriand, .'>1)>-I7

— — Klaniitih Uivrr, 273

-^ Mend.icino, Capo, 20H

■— Namiwa, J»7-i», 473

roiiit, 104. ei22

liock, 37H. 370

• Kiuort Anchongo,

6J7

Vn\m^ Tillamook Oi\p«, 295
FaUo, ('«pn, 170

, I'liiTto, 210

Faliiollap or Fh1u1'«p [i>li't«

10(13
Fmadik Inland, 00ft
F.»nan6
Finning lalaod, 028-030
Fanny Uav. 476, 477

Kwf. 490

Fnnop6 I (land, 979
Funnhaw, Capfv 608
Fa.>un<>u|«'i Inland. 079
K iniilay lalitnd. .S7'»
FnraKuet Island, U)20
Faratlu* laland, I0ii2
FaTiillon da MfUinilla,

1054-5
do Tajaroa, lo.'i.t.

106U

do Tonya, 10.')5.6

In.-li.», 10

Farallonn* AIijoK. 1107

ItlmoM, 173

iHlind* an'l

I.JK'>thcu"''i '•■'>7-0

liocka, 58, 185

F.\rarik Iiland, 1001
F«r>'W«>ll. « «p<-. 535
Ftrnham Iidand, 1035
KHrnvl..ne riint, 100
Farraiit Uland, 544
Fitrroilap Inland, 1003
K*l»i/.ui I-Un.l. M42, S14.5
Ktllullnp UUrid, 1003
FautiUiTMv ( Viic, i37

H.)ck. 274

Farida IiUnd. 4.h4
FavrTitf Channel, 6 15
Faroiinto Anchuraga, 62*
F iwn I (J. I, .'>63
F.irlwn liock, 2H7
I- .in or Fiiy» Ulanl, 1004
F.kli«t<.ff'lii.tn.l, Un
F<I.iliMe Ulan'l, I1H13
FcUownn l'a<mi)ft<, 77ii
F-riiiiii, i'.'int, aad l-i|{bt-

huu(», 212
Fitrn ('..»«., 337
F'TTor IVinl. 4 33
V'Tnyi- lUrlwiir, 887
Fidtig(> Inland. 343, 345

. Port, 645

Fidvtlc ll*«f, 402
F>!<-. ('a[»-. .')M

tvjun I, 6<JU

Fiii UUnla, 1266

FiJii*, Point, 216

Fiiijino llock, 007

Fimah Itland, 1161

Fin Island and iiook, 543

Fin h<<k, 2M

Fmi.1 1». mt, 148

FiikJ.t lUjck. 22*

Fn/al liiand, 5.'6

Finiit'Tn^ Muunlaina, 1018

Finlayaun ChannaL 527,

630-32
Iilood, 664

PinlayMD, Monnt, 371
Fint Rtma, 1 146
Fimndo Uland, 887

. I'nrt, 777. 887

FiriM< |{...'f, 1145
Fiichol lulnnd, 1010
FiiKitnl Inland, 330

Inland and Lighi-

hoiiM, 3iri, 3U7
Fiah liny. 627
— — liivtir, 761
— liocka. 617
Fi>ih«r 111 tnnel, 520-2}

- InUiid, I UK. 1135
Finliunnan Core, 533, 635

li.*f, 812

li«K-k, 793, 794

Fmhin^ Uockn, 263
F)lt..n lUv. 1134

FilK Inland. 433
Fila^iMnin Puint, 596
FitihuKh Sound, .ilS-.VJO
FiKltov U<>ef, 524
Fivo.f.ilhomn Shoal, 403
Five-riiit(ur Inland, 4 72
FiTo HilU. Uavuf, 108

Htinmucka Puiiit, 198,

100

Fka iir*, 8.35, 8.36
Fltintnico laland, 13, 14
Flat H«y, 752

- UUnd, 700, 1156

— lalandn. 480, 484
Puinl, 3.)0, 533

- K.Kk. lOH. 112, 572
Fltt-top Inland, ^>67

Ulaiidn, 3H8, 468

Ul.tH, 423

Point, 100

Moinitaina, 446, 447

FUltory, IVipe, and l.i^ht-

hiuni', 320. 324. 325-6

H.M ka, 320

FlfminK, Port, 538
Flora • r.'.'k, 286
Flor« ntp .">h.>Hl, 1060
FloKin'ia In and, 419
Fiona InUn<i, t23
FioriiU HUnca, Ilraso de,

4i>4
Flo war I«l>t, 435

Pot Inl.t, 577

Fl.w. ry Inlnl, .>«0

Flv Itanm, 517

Fo'k Itxk, 407. 400, 411

K«kn. 522

K.>XKV <'ii|>*>, 596
FutK'V Inland. 1061
Fonai'C*, Uav of, 66

.(ililfor. 57-64

Fonts iUnk, 352, 404
Fi>raulrp Inland, 1003-4
Futl>«« IilaiKi. 417-18
Forbad.- K.Kk. 114^
Foriiycu PaiaaKL', 966
Fon-at l'ap»i, 635
I'orfana Inland, 1138
Fonnoaa laland Mid <.'^>an«

n«l, 1260

»t,37l

N.S7
'7. 8M7
46

3.*!*

"id Light-

UH. 11.1.-,
'iJS, 6.ii

7»3, :»«

L'63

Ff>rn>«(cT UUnd, rt06
Foinyth I'oint, 572
Fort lAf^rnm, la5
I'oiiit. 6fi3

Toiivt »nj IJKhtkousr,

842-3, 2.'ii

Yum*, !4fi

Furti<«cuu Iilimd, Ifti
Fortunu, Cniw, 2i>t>, 208
Furtunu Chaiin.'l, 122

I'oiivt. 664

Forward lUy, 6f)fl-I

li«y, .VMi-i
Inl.t, 440, 447-H

Forwood (.'hannrl, 4«>y
Fo«t«<r I'oint, 363
Foul Miiy, 401

I'oint, 857

Foulwoiilher, Cap«<,
282

— Dluff,

267,
33.1,

334

FounUin Hock, 642
Four lalutils air.1 Kockt,

931, MM
Four-fnihoms Dniik, 243,

244, 2.M
Four M'lunUina, IkI..^ of

tho, 676
FourUicn I»lAiid Grt)up,

068
Fox. Capo, 560. 605

iBUnd, 3.ts, 339, 773

UUnJii, 66;», 670-77

Fraili« I•l•'tl^ l^>«, fi

K.Kkn. li'K. 177

Fnin9Aia, Port, 636
Fmncit Island, lUO

I'oint, :U6, 4H6

Franc)iM-<i Solano I'uiiit,

1261
Frank ruirit, 604
>i>nklin lt:>y, 1020

, roirit. 700

Fnucr Inlnnd*, ;iH6
^— — — lit'ikc'h, 633
— — kiviT, imd Li^li'-
hoiMit, 464, 46», 458, 46u-
464, 4<J3
FrayWa, Karallooc* iln !< .-,

and LiK'tithou**-, 267-y
Frmz.r Ulan.l, VM
Fri>aunck I'lMHt, 492

lidand. 5X6

, I'ort. fl-M-2

Hirait, 502

Froanuui I'oiiit, 761

, i'ort. 7,i

FrvunuMilW I'uiiU, 616

Fr.Hiwill UUndii, h>2l
Fri'jcalc* Kfiut^ Mmj o. Hajco

dm, 11.1
French Frignto* Shunl,

lllU-12
Fr«kwat.T Hay, Hi, 328,

621

Uland. 1032

Fiiday Harbour, 366
FrudrichWilhtlm llarkour,

1019

I\'urth Pacijic.

INDEX.

Friflndly C«»(), 428, 429-30.

432
FriK:»to Ilay, 619
Fri^oli I'oiut, 157
Frio, Uivcr, 49
Fritf. C)v.t, 612
Frost F«liind, 360

— SboHl, 1110
Fruitful Iiliinl, 103')
K'tag^i niitia, h03
Fii8#fo, Volcan de, 3, 76, 77
Kiiorto, Uio d«l, 135
Fukai, 895
Fiikai HJina, 894-7
Kiikuu Itay, 1U8
Kiikudii aaki, S'J9
FiikuKawa It.iv, SSO
KiikuKkii an 1 Lijjht, S83
Fiik lira, HID
Kiikur* uiki, H76
Fuku nh.', 8;»i', 914
Fuku itima, MS6

Hay, 860

Fuku urn, SI.'), Hj;)

«ih1 Li^fht, 791

Fiikuyiima, !>61
Fuki;vt> Channel, 894
Fulford Harbour, 371, 37'.»

l{...f, 4113

Funa-K'iK->Li Iluy, 883

F.ina M\, HHi)

I'un.' Kuti. 822

Fiirih,.t«, 871

Fiirui^'linu UUnil, 767

Fimhiki, H76

Fiiiii-\ania Mtnintuin, 779,

7m', '^.'4, S32
Fiiw r.'.ik, 7.17
Flit t dimii, JO'.t
FutJiif.) Mima, 8'.i6
Fiitakunii, >.''6
FiiUko sima, 899
Fiito wiki. H29
FiiUiiiotitu ILirlcur nni

Lik'ht. 907
Futau Mki. 832, 839

( '.iWina Hirer, 1018

(inJM-i.l Hay, 167

CiiiliriuU ImUii.I, I'aM, and

k.«Ws. 3:j8, 4ti8.'.), -473
(iai^an lulaiut, W66
(taitlaiimk llarluur, 773
(ialaU'H Slioal, 89 1
Oalo CriNik, 628

I'oint, 646

(talora, ("apt), 217

Islaml, 9

(ial<Tiu< I*let«, 163

\Mk«, 170

(ialiaiiu Ulaiid. 383,608
(iaIluKO lainiid, 925
Uttllt^y K<M>k, 417
(HUIiaaI«land.l67
(ialhto I'oint, 166
(iallo ULind, 167
(lallowR I'oint, 470
Oama Hntclii, 1163
lianifcley, Cap*, 855

1281

flamWa Shoal, 1117
(iambi, r Nl-uid, 482, 483
— , Tuint, 610

• rirnlile. Port, 340, 341
Oami, Wa, 29
Oiunovi, Cap«, 707, 769
Oanu sht'-, 890
(iandcr IxlandH, 5J2
(ian^ri'N Harbour, 379-380
— R<«f, 1126

(^ap Mounttiing, 440
Oapnn IsUnd, 1045
(rinichino I'oint, 6

• tiinqxui, 10.52-3
(f.irUnzog Shoal, 1061
Oarilon Cove, 705

I4ind, 044

(iiinlncr Ch.'inn( I, 634

City, 288

Harixiur, 699

l.Ml.ind, 11)04, 1112

, SI' Hint, 466

, I'oint, GOS, 613

, I'.Tt, 342-3

(Siribiidi I'.aks, 440
(Jams, I'oint, 607
(tirovii laland, 68

trirry I'oiut. 461, 462

(i;i« Town, 466

(«a«par Island, 1034

Kotk, 1108

Kico Islands, 861,

1U31-6

Oaitinoaux Chiinncl, 611

(irt.<ton Hav, 346

(iauttiur Mimntjtim*. Ii22

(iiiv.iriMh, Ciiii', 7-'.*, 7:iO

(iuvilonuM I'oint, 162

CfOt'lvink r. <y, 1022-4

, I'oint, 1023

I'i'loon IsLiiid, 1(U6
(.K-nkai Nadi, .sHI

gjmii, 882

(Jrnn IslanjH, .)38
( irnsiu Kawa, 87.i
(iooU'ruy, Mount, 176, 478
(Jeorfft',' Cap«', 331. 657
, Fort, 306

11.11,664

HiirlxMir, 674

Island, 624

Island and Bay,

143
, Toint, 305, 623

Hock, 616, 616

Goor^'itt, Strait of, 322, 372,

467 — 480
(fiiruld Inland, 476
(iorasineov Island, 769
Uurmantown Hoef, 1 1 19
(ihibu-isi Hm'k, 832
(ihi^'ffa, 719, 746
Uhijinsk Gulf, 744-6

, Fort, 745

(iibraltar I»l«iiii, 414
(iil)ei)n Island.s, .)37
(tif^ lIar)K)iir, 337
CriffiuUa, Cerro de la, 1.59
Gigbiga, Hivir, 744, 746

8 A

({ihon llluff. '.'72

Oil Miiitl aiul Mount, 634,

.U:\
OiU Kit or. \^^
tiillfrt Anhip«l)««o, 935-

<.'4H, 1200

I»Unil, fltf.. 947

liivtr, TT-'i

(iiir.rd IxUmt. 'xiJ
(<illi-»)>v |i>lnn<l, .'IH
(nlli-N liny, 4SI. I'44
liilmi.iir. roinl, •■»H
<iii|uili»<o, I'urt, '•<>
(iirrv UUiitl. '.»94, 096
OiariVr lUv, I'.'ii
Clmlntnic, Mounf. |ftl«
(•1.1^ im(i|< lljiy, 71H, 711
(iUKf-nap. l'«|"'. fi**'*
liii'iUhnriic Cri'k, S!*l
(ilinipw Ki-<'(». 400
(Houbokiua lUr, r.79

t'.iVP, fil't

tiimrU-l I«Un<l, A'.<9

^ I»liu.<l», 517, ftOO
(•nitton, U'4(i
4i.«l ('..rn, 6.il

UUnd. 1».>9

IhImuU. 11.! 4

tJiNHSiitinli-"'* Ktvcr, H5
(tota-niiMior UUi»l. lil

(it>ru Riina, 7'>><>

0>Ui, iO,), «S«, 4C>0, 66!>,

,'>s7. fio'j fill, 7/>». 773
(Juld lUuff. .!72

— lli.rU.iir, .'iS7-8
-— Hivrr. 4.;l
OolJen UuW.'lhy, 207. 210-

246

Horn lUiv, 771

Ui*k. MJ

Ooldtniiiit IhIiuiU Mill Light-

tlOUM'. ''■•I

liuliiiibin, Cap<\ and laght'<,

772
OoIiUlmiin llsrl'inr, ''>2o
(i<ileni<-ht''tii ff, (-'«JM', 7-i
(ioli-U, l,v. 17
(iulHaa Channel, 322, '•U7-

AlO
(Jolfilo. The, 34
iiul>>rat> hpIT, Cvip«-, 7'»1,

761, 7«>.'»
(Ifiliiminc Hay. Ct'l-'j
Ut)l<jwiiiti Mr'iit, TM
iioly lalnri'l, i)7l
(iumM IkIaikI, \U
<ttinii)fa Mtki. 'yi'''J
do no urn, h^J
Uoiuuilua Hill and Point,

401

I«li.iul, 7, 9-10

(touch Island, 374
(iuod liopt;, IWiy uf, '^66

Look-oul IsWiJ*,

loll

N.)w», n«y of, CHtt

CSuuae Uland, 'M>f>, C23

liUbda, 626

iNnrx.

Ooo«« I/(HlHt>, .\42

Spit, 47H
(lot).iin Koik.rt.'.^
(Jurtlit, I'lolia, 17-1

- r.Mnt, 10, 2.1, 31,

41-2, 172, 174, 1T«>, 2;iO,
266

Uonlor II«md, 36A

M:uid«, ftOS

Tdinl, 502. 604. .'i6|

Uiter, :<93

(i<ir« Ulanil, I I')

UUud and Capo, 70.1,

704

, r..int, 649

Oorttii Ixltiid. r>77
i;..r. l.iy Uliin.l. (Ml
(t..rir<' llarlxxir, 4'.»0
(.ior^.n l<>Kk, .'^.1
(iixH'hcn litUnil, 5''>7
tionlinK K'X'k*. 626
0'>l<'lliu\ll l'l^1k, S02

(•••tf-n ymna, x'i^

HoUk ('n\-r, and I^^hl-

h'liiMi, •<.i(i

Iiili>n<l», ^'.>1.7

(touMiiiK li«HHiiir, r>J6
(iouluti UUnd>, 1007
li-.vi'nok""!, *'«|<'. 720
IKiwrtiiir R'^:li. ^t^l
Vi.iwir I'luMt, 4^1
(i'wlt.tnd iliuUiiir mid

Islaiid, 4 '.10

K<«k». 419

(io-yo-mal .Slrait, Hi'xi
(tiiEa HnrtMur. M'J
(tuu>n iwa, H23
(Jrarw. Point, rt47
Uraham Itliiff. M (6

, ('ajw, ll'7

H«rb«nr. '<.H<-1

Uland, .'>7I, 57' »,

6H6

— - KMM-h. 6Ja.J
Urij«>ro I'oint, 2i>l
(>rnin|iita Iid.in<ta, 1127
(irnnaila and ljik<-, 49,60
tirnnailo ltiv«r, J.S
(imnd t'an'«n. The, 1 16
(fr!\nd<i, ICiu, 14, 31, 7o,

< iraiuto Cior^ 6*24

lahuid, H-*. 441

Point, 4!>ti, 673, ^7 4

( Imntl. y llarU^ur. 6V«) 7
*iTn|t|4«r Cr^'k. 407

- Itrtjf. a7«

Oraaty lalnt, 62H

I'..int, 47«

Ormr* I'uinl, 623
(irari-n, I'uint, 62S
(irsTaa, i'i>rt,4H2, i.HS
(iravina Ulaoda, bVH, 699

, I'ort, 046
Gray hay, 67H
UartMHir, 316-17

I'oinl and Hay, SO'i

Koathur Itink, 9!<7

Oroat T.n-rhn Tihnd, llflO-

1155
(>n*n it ink, 3(14
I'ovti, 4011.10, 414

II. ad. IIJ

Hill, 2'.il

Inlrt, .')33

lalnndi, 6'i2, 617,

C4H, 1122

Ul.t, .WO

l«l. t<, 6»,7

I'c.int. 32'.i, 369

T..|. Nl-t, .'.4<i. r,M

(»ri>«<nwuh I. land, 9HH.<J
Ur<'K''>ry, ("(ij**'. and Li^ht-

Ik.iimj, 2»17, iS'i-il
(•retff, ra|»«', ('iHri.7. 855
UranviUd, ("a|H), 2".'6
Ch.^nntl, 631,

6,15.7,646

, IV.int, 31S

On'TiHp, Cap,-, (156, 6.M
Oroy lnUtid«, 519
'- Ul.t. 600

Point, 4rt», 465

- HrKk, 474, Mo

tiiiliMl I»l.in>l, 633
tiii.f Hay, 5IH, 624

p.. ml, 4H»t

Ortflin Hiv. a.'.rt

, Mi.iinl, 553, 655

ttrifo Uliind and Puint,

■8.«

Ontptn Uland, 10,18, lOAH
(tilini« Maiid, KHit
Cinndatl, Point, and Ulanil,

(iruMVTitcha IWir, 761
()r<-t(«M, Poinl* line, 1064
(inii'Sit Pi>ii)t. 131
Iriiaoalila Kivrr, 79
(tiiadaUjara, 1 15
i>iia<laiiitHi, Hay a df, 629
()uad«la)M', !.>,'>
UUnd, 1107-

HUH
OnUinm Uland, 1037, 103,S,

1041
Ouajan Ialtnd,103'.). 1041
liuain Ul'tiid, 1011-7
I <uana<-a*U<, 31
(•uaniivan' , 20, 30
Uumta, u2t., u.i3, ua6, 1033
(luanu K<K'k, '2f«S
Ouap Uland, 1(K)6
llMapil'in i'.iiit, 36
()iia>|uiBa Ann, 431
OaMida Puint, 21, 22
Uaalumala, i\m»t, uf, 1, 2,

3,6, 76. 1172

Voloaoi*, C'J,

Uoatulco, Port, 93-6
(iuayainaa Uivar, 227
(luavaqiMl, li&6
(tuayBM, 83, H5, 130, 131,

137-140, 16y
(iu<«»<;iMi laUnd, 68, 69
(fuaU-^i'hi, Punt* du, H8

INDEX.

1283

UuMnM InUnd, "Mt
tiu^rin Oiilf, 760
Oiiurito, Mount, 981, 083
(ittcrnro, 81

(i>iK««n IiilM4, l»66,Io;0-7
Oiiiili) Inlotii. 490
Duijarroa, ranta <lii Im, 20U
Ouiunus, Cap<>, 40, 41
OuimiMw, I'litiU du, 209
UuK llock, 7'>3
UuU iiork. I.'i8, 571

Korku. hlt*>, 66B

GuniMaki. ItUU

Oiin Clrtf, H.'56
(luMhoBt liarKoiir, .537

I'mmiikh, fj24

Ounn Umk, HU4
tiiinii<«r IIfirlH)ur, 1'.!3
Uurgtian, I'lMtit, lo.jl
(JiimoyTill*-, ~''t2
Uiiy lioik, lu6'J

Knhans UUnd, ICi
ll:k)>u«lii-iwit, !4UI)
iikchi )(ptiiiii>, VJi
Iluchij'S »U
llat'himtinn Bnki, RIH
liiichki-n K'>wi<, HI I
lla^^ UlKiid, Wi, 095
IliolrtiiaM KiHjk, UVl
HaHiikii nntM, SlO
ilaJiliiiffV*!) Ixl >ii<l, 'JU.'i

, Tyrt, 1167.

IlKtt-1160
lU.lik' Mki, r<73
lUiUlii lli»y, T>".l-2
llttoria it.irlHmr, 1183
iluf(iiiiii l^t• r lulaiul, l>HS
IIuKitiiir lnUdtln, 7(>'i
llnliiuiiiili llurt>uiir, .HI

lUi.itt i'uiiit, ;)6:i

lliiiiomAri Hnv, h<)3
llnkiii Chunii.j, 'j-'D, fi.'l-S
ll«kA »-, ^J'l
lUkat» mkI I.iKht, 8»3
lUkittii atmi. 7'J'J
llaki llav, ^-^O
llnkoUjit' llHrln^iir (ind l,t -
v.'«t.l, .s-'7, .s.'i!<-H(;(), ::■.<,

7,S0. 7.'-; I, l.!ti3, 1J04

Ill 111, s'>S

lUkowiki lUy, ,sM-3
lUku Niina "^'M
lUlttWB I'.-int, Uil»2
ll.il. v»ii UUiiJ, 1U3(>
lliii.dea lliiy, 1102
lliiK'Ziif, Clip.', "I'lli
lli»li-inu.iii Uiiv, 2.i';-7
li.lf-tiJ.' UuJk, oJtJ, ^60,

IJl, 42.'.
IltilK'rtn, t'lxpe, 717
llulibut Itiink, •>l'i

bay, .'"'its

Cbanml. 4:17, iH'-l

Juliiid Jc ll.ud, liO.s

. lUK-k, iVi\

Kotk«, i>iX

Hull hliind, 7ii:i. 704, 'J40

l»kuda, yj.'j-ti

ilallftWM Iittaiul, H97
llalli DrMkuni, 1155
Haniafftima nra, 8IU
llamaiolii, 7H<'>
lUmani^kn Ibiy, 863, 866-6
HamanH Ko, X2i
liaiMmaUM, .S22
llamvlii) Strait, 770
llamiltnn Piiint, UoU, 1160
llaniinonJuy lnt«t, .'t.'t'J
liaamoml Itrtrk, ii'H4

ttorki, 393

lUiao, N7'j

lUnk, 791, 794

IIiiiHUfiii, (,'a|>«, 611
liaua Htv, 886
Minadi I*<>'t, IKi.5
llHni<<>iri Himi. s:)S

il.tn.ilun l(,'iy, ll(IJ.,'i
li iiiiiHiitiiiua. < 'a|x', IHH'i
ihiiiHiM urii, 8ii2
ll.iii>i|i"p)^ V.-»lloy, 1101
II iii:i-r..U., S.(5
ll.tna fht, S'J.j
ll:inio(k Itiy. lUS
I'.iiiil and Lij[lil-

iltnd UUiwI. 117

ll.iii'.lik I'liiiit un<l Light-

h.jiivs n:is
iliiitriia, "!»«
II iiik'i ll.iy, '<K0
lldiikiii r.nnt. .'!)i3
Point ail i \A>di(v.a,

647

l{^<.f,, 56.5

K.K'k, 422

lliitikow Hr.'akdTii. lOl'J

II iiiiiii.r K..(k.-t, .■)<)«

ilitniri Uix'k, .)I6

11 inninx ll.iy, ''i47

II IIIH * >j^u.jll l:«l:tnd, ho4

II tiiNin l.nljtnd, all

, IViiit, .115

lluiiuH lilniid, li.lO

Iwx.f, lill, <V1\

llarModowii l-l:trul, .301
llarlniiir lUiik. .'i-t/
l.il.iTi.l, 40y-4IO,

43.5, .523, 1 1 47
Island and Ij«).Ji;e,

.52.>

IVint, 107

Ui'ttH, .5.5.5

K.iik, ;iti3, .53.5

llitrdMii'ko iMliiiid, i'J'J
lUrdv lt.iv, .juy

Isljiid, Ih7

llaib..ur, Hy4

llarlurd, 22S
ll-irK'a«>ff I'oint, 743
lUrima Nad i, 's\, SOI -.5
ILirlwh C.iMtl.i lUk, J.iO
llariit'y Chamiol, M'.i
Huru Arthip«dajj'), 322, 351

~3ti4

, Capo, 138, 140

Mtrait, 3J1, 364—383,

i07

IT irri».t Ilirbour & Mnrnl,

1571

•, I'oint. 0.53

lUrrin^'t'Tn, I'awit, 603
M arris Point, 227, 607
MarrifflmrK, OH
llttiTti«>H Kivi.r, ».5i5, 401
Hartford. I'l.rt, 228
Ibu-vey, l'„rt, .500
llarwfHHl Inland, 185, 487-8
liaahi hamii Iiiltit, 7<J7
llaMkuina wki, 009
ilaxtimy UUnda, 993
llaAikiwi, 816
H I Aifna, HiiH
llamoi^Hi, Hlii
ll.kMiri niina, Hi>0
II imU'\ il,v,', L'oi)
— U'xk, 27.5
II mting^ Arm, .)il5
Iliuivokan l.Hlin-l, 11. 5S,

111.2
Hal I.iknd, U3
11 it.'kt niina, 1118
Hat iin.i !«iiiiit, 1 1.58
ll.tt.) saki, SSI
Il.il4ii rtwii^:, S2!)
II xila I'.iy, 1003
M aiimilulii, 'M
II nitlmy Ul-t, :;l.5
11 ivaniiah I li iiiinl, 500

It'jck, .Hi

IIhv. l.)ik l;..i k, •■)50
Hivon Anihora^rP, 203
llav.M-k Islandt, 7S5
ll.iwaii, 10.;.), lu(i.5, 1007,

1U6.S, li»71 - 10«5
— - — , (;.ip«., 701
Hawaii 111 An. hip'l.iic;, 1002
llii'i

Haw, IS Ul.Iid-., lllOO

II iwk.^Mhiiry l..«laiiil, .533

II iwkiiin Iriliiid, 3S|. 644

I lava .siiki (. Ii iiiii. 1. 007

Haycock Blull', s:i6

iBland and UiH'ks,

jl )

Lsht, ■j.53

lal.ts ..U

— Kix-k. 913

H.iVn.l l'a».t, Ofi',1

■-— , l'.>int, ilJS
Havitack Inlet and I'uinl,

293

K.>rk, 2ii7, .s»7

Haytick^ K.j.k.s, 142
llavstruii.-i Islainl, 1034
ll.»kiiia IHII, .S31
lla/..l point. 341
lla/..ii 11 ly, 090
Hazy l-laiid.M, 012
HaK8<tni:t, HIO
Hi«d Pav, 4)1
H.aUkiika Point, 1077
lli'ald-dMirifli, -02
H..'.«'r Uoi f , 1 1-5.J
Hi'tii linn, 114.5
llcoktc Channpl, 43(5, .520
Cuvo, 449-4.J0, Ul

in i iiiri i iww M Km i riWuTi'n ii ii i r- II I ! r i l

1J8I

Hfieate Tokitd. KO. Mi

•}

40S. 4ia. 4il. 4.'6

Kcick. H2, Mi

Stmit. 6«.H

ilacctJi ll»ak antt ('ape, 'iK'J

— 2<H)
Inlot, 27»

Il<«i.ti. M.unt, 720
Holhr IiU«n<l. 44m, H'J
Hrl« Kork. II.M
HtiM r.^nt, 16'*, .181

Mtr .Hh.«l. 700
Molrn. li«Y. '.'V9
fit Imtrhvn lUr. 71 1
lie)nuk<ii Ida'tid, 4!><)
ll.lmrt Ul-t, ft77

r.«k. Ai7

IlrUinn I>.lan<l, lO.IA
IMiit UUrMia, iM>0
llrmm^iu; Mar. <^47
M.n.Nr»<..fi Inlot. .'I.'W

I.liuiil, II OH

HfK.lonill. IkUn4,Bun.944,

'Hit
llfiiry lUy. 47«, 477

UUtid, Ui, 371.

Hiutlow, ('*p*^ 1031

H. nty Heel, 1H5
ll.ptiini J Vint. A3fi
Ilcrniti I«Ub«l hrKl Hhrm),

701
n.<htrt Arm, 42.S

UkiMi. n.'il

I'olBt, (-U

lievh, .'>iM

IIinaanuK lkk>i«, IJl
lltrmiu laiaetU, 1<(I1.17
llf'MniiM I'cMTIt siwl lt«v, I'.i
H«Ttn<«illo. I.IO, 137, 140
lli-nn<'»', M.>rr<i, 41, I'M
HtrriMUMio Man<l, 4fiS

ll< rr»itnra. I'otl, and I'oiiit

Ilfimni IiUot, 26

]l« Mtki, 7H«}

- (iii.a. Hjo
HmfMT laknH. 1140
lit'w^uiAl llAitour aDiin)«(f,

42.'.-'i
H»t.., Ctipr, II.V4
lUwitt Kim4i, 63'i
I<<wl«4t Umy, .'>S8
Hwy, IVrtHt/mi

ktnui, 7'»7

Ililiart Mina, K27
IluanU iaiit, ifl
lit a.M« Ukn^2(l
Wia«K« kawa, HI a
H"i.. Itay. 1»73
Hi' Kiitb NHrmwa, 'i33
liiMap liOaud, IM.)
Ui-«ilin lUrer, 5s2

INOKX.

Hi »«wi», «04
IIkKiim. iViinI, »«7
H.irt> Bluff. 174
Hiirh I-UihI. »M. 100(
lliuh Ixwtinv r<wk. IM
Hitrhoat liOarHlii. 437
Hittlirt'ld, Point, 6U\
liiKh-wat<>r U->ek, M3

Korka, &M, MS

Iliffiri Mki, HUl
Hiifi, 9"7
Ilikirt4» Point, HO)
iiiki KHwa. Nil

aimn, ^<x>. SW

lliku Flat, 7«1. 7'»4

- — msia and l.iK^t, 789,
7'.»I

niklohrMdt l'U>l, 7A9
Hill iaiM4. 4UH, 41i, 4U2,

Illll I'oNlt. 7fli

- - li-«-k. !'.»
liilMxiroiivh ItinM'l. in^
Mtk<. lUv, Hii.l ViK'hta,

107.3-7 ■
Ilinuximii, 796, HS3. 8S»7

. !{<.,< h:7

ilinchiiibronk l»i.Mi>l and

<«p«-. Ml. 643-4

II ndttKwt iiiv«r, (ilil
lliiio mi-aki an<i yama, H13

— yaiMA, 7'.'3

lli.»«T'> a»<l Ij^flkt, 77'.), (»;'7,
h37

HiDtiiii jHna, 790

lii|>4'« UianJ, 'tM

liira<l«, hM

lhr.«<l» no fcto, 8fi7, !iS8-9,
i«l4

aim*. H}i7.H, '(13

Hir* i»>. HO.')

IIitaktiU> mki, 116.S

Hiraw li4Kk«, IVt4, h99,
MM, M'^

llirm ••inva. H51. HH3, «'I3
liiruM' h<M^ 7i«, HHS
ilirt. mtna, 7!Mi, ■^'^l
llimwut.li JUv, *>1J
llaaka ac min tt<>, H'ji
- aima, *tV4

liwliiwii tlni.k, \t03

III imia, 9M0
llitn>va, ('»}», 7'.M
llr.wNi, <«{<% »70
Mi-urlii N4<1*, 7'i*J-'^00
Hi tjm. '^iii

Hivi K.<ck, S17
Hij<in ) Pima and I.i^lt-
liouiir, HTO

Hiruny* mv, 7*1
Hu-aK« U«"i. xsa, S92
H'wt-pia-Mi laLti d, llCJ
H.-Urt, PuMit, t,lo
iiohU Utvi, 4.'u
Holfft li«k. N'J.'

liMiiaMti Hvm't, M2

nm),-nm MmuI, tlM
H .Kuku liOdnda, !«93.,^
till hoac Uian^, 43'J
llviitji, ( '.ip* , 76'J

Iloldiworth, Mmint, 604
il<>l«< in ihr Wall, 420
llnlkbani H»f, rtlO
Holland UkMld. 0.34

r«i»t, 5M

Point. 400

ItoImM llay. 634, S44

Haiboiir, 343

M'dr (VnM lUy, 7M-7I9
Homalko or Huinalliko

ICiv«>r, 4*3, 494
Homo Nland, 4H3
iloiiifrny Chaniiid, 490
H.muku Point, »3fl
Honda, Itakia, 21-3
Hondiinu, 1, 3, 6
HnnK Konif, 12fi0, tec
Hon-na mi, SV3
Hoaohilo, H^'hour, an'l

Liffhiis lor,7, 1095.'J,

1241
IloniKinnof I', 1096
Honi.tau, h:,'i
M iimhui, 77"*
HiHK:ii Kivcr, 320
Hooil It/iy. 013
(.'nniil and II««ad, 333,

310.42
, Mount, 310

Puinl, 4S2, mi

H..onv»li liarlKJur, (121-2
Hooi.'Hcif, 515

Hop*', 4<5<i

laUnJ, 609, <.i3')

Pi inf. 4«;». <iw'.t

n(>|>(MT Inliind, W.tO. \H!t
limjutaiatii liiviT, 317
H'>ria<i-u!<ii-muni, ^30
Hurt?, 'rim., 1235
HumVv Uland, 473, 47JO,

47» '

Point, 672

Horn r, t'ap*. 76<i

, Mimnt, 7'*3

Hurnct lUy, 77 »

InlnniU, 916

lluririai, ?»i).t

ll.r*. -i.ho« Ifciy, 37fl, 377

HuAikfi iMtki, rttl6. MH

il.akyn liiiH, 4 id

lluw> »ima, ?»'.«

MatSoor, 7H(J

Hi'tlinm InUA, *>V<«

lU't S{>rtUi( laland, 676

lluu<t..l>in H«y, CM

HouiriiUjn, P'tift, (M;9-A10

lluunlolxaa llay, 1047

HuUM' UUad, A, 6
Huuaton Uland, 300

l'»»^•g<^, 37«, 3S4

HU wart CItaauul,

571. 372-3, DM
Howu, PeMt, 6U2

KounU, 4M, 481-3

Huwkan WCrait, 0»fl
IIo*Uik1 UUud, 934-6
\l,*A lira, H19
Hiia/oittUn Hilla, 87
Htidsun Iiland. 37H
Puint, 3:52

hnt. Mi
Ml. «30

t. »44
.143

7IH.7I!)
iiuiiiatiiko

H. 490

ji-a

TJr. iin>l
lOM.y.

I'^iJ, 333,

('.03

ir. (121.2

;), '.1.19
I, '■>!»;>

, .117
L «30

173, C.i.fl,

u
3

:<». 377

■. 7K«

, 676
:9-A10

047

J78, 3M|

481-3
l-S

Itiionomo Point, nnd Light-

houM, 316

Port, 316

HuKh, Pnint, 010
IliiKon, C»M, 76)
lluUh liooki, 363
lliiUU lUrlx^ur, 1100
Iluloi* Uiror, 1101
KuU Muxl, /lOO
llumboiat Bay, 1021
Humboldt hoy an<l Light-

houM, 2GH.fJ()

. Kort. 270

■ Harliour, 0*57

Ilummocli laUnil, IIQO
Hump IrUbiI, 1023
]luni|))>ark Kork, 6A7
HumtoUpy lUver, 317
Hunirry H«ck, 9<>1
Hunt. Vuint, f)-W
UunU^t Cov* and Mrt, 2H1
Huntur Ulitnd, f>2'i, 4Jti, i»«7

P..ii>t, 240

UiH'f, 1007

Hurdldund, 1»5»
Hunt lulled, 5tO
Hurt.ido Point. 4H3
Miii»o »inm, ""■•'.»
lliuton Intel, r>74
Ilulchinaon Uii«>f. nf>7
lliiiloy laland. TiT)
H\»cinthi^ Itnv. I'.'l
Hyaku Kuan, I'J'J

laitchnoi, (^pc, G79
Innthp .Shoal. 1001
ll.ar>foitia I.Und, '.)'»9
IbU'tton, Cap*, ')'>7

liUniU, 057

IU-«»o. H73

lt~. Point. H7S
ll'tiki miiin, MOO
IiatoH Point, 63
La, 700-1, Ii.'9-12.'!0
K't! liiirbour, T&l
Ic«l>«rf( llav, ftO.'l

I'Jint. (123

lihry Inland, 1 U>.^
Lhi-no-h*n» van. a. R05
Icy Hay and C«|»', 638-9

CaiH). f:[\h, Too

. Sm, :0O-3

_ — Strait, ti24

Idol iNl.t, :i:h

Mrn<|m' liivor, 34

Id»u, Cai>«>, Hiid Li^'ht-

houM. SJft-tl, «S2. «i'.i
I<1ru IVninsula, Hii, H>j
Uf.\ym\ lakita. HH4
I fall k Ulands, 1001
Ijfainii Itav, H80
iKtt.ikoy Ilay, <1.^9
iKhak.hi lJ«y, '>.''9
l^UMia, Point, III
Ii<iia-look Itiliinl, (198
IiCo«iii»k Point, 073
Iifunna I viand, 17

_ Point, 10

Ihak Buy. 6.VJ

INDKX.

Ibatok PeninaiiU, Bdn

Ikatun PeniiuuU, 608

Iki tima, 890

Iki aima, 883-4

Ikop iaUnd, 904

Ikutttki laUnd and Channel,
8«0

Ildxromao laland, 158

Ilanao, 14

IliiniiiMk P(wk, 663

IIiIh) aaki, 813

Ilic liay, 1046, 1047

lUak Iiland, 681

llluluk Uarbaur, 072, 073,
1181

Ilpinokoi, Capo, 720,720

IiuHUri, 798

IinaK*wa, ('ap«). 795

ImaKo Point, 679, 580

Ima-hiiru Hay. U16

Inmri (Julf. H.s.5.6

Imita nu auto, 91 1

Imixu gawa, 876

imperial. Port, and River,
7H1, 702

ImjHTiMUno lUiiflT, H30

luaNushn iivt'f, 1 l.')l

Inatfo. klount, 1013

Indian IiUud, 270, 423,
609, i3 1

Co»o, 516

Point, 363

Indio, Kivor, 12

ln<li>«trio Uock. 49

In.., I'ort. s:s-9

liif«'rior [ Jit;' •on, H'',

Iiiti.'rn<41o Chanml, 111

liitiirnu, Hocttdil, ^^0

Int^ttki'ii'luk Hi»y, ^>76

hi^raoll PiitchiM, 11)1-.'

UuokH, 1114

Iiiif.wtorii lu«k», 683
|[it<he Hiiuu, HO'i
Iiu<l.'ll.-'W Mind, 1 1 18
liiH'lo*o, Morro, i:ifi, 137
Inli.nd .Via, Tlio, 77'-'.

7»H-816
Inmr laiandB, 676
Ill-no !(imii, 7V9
Inokuifai lUrl>our, 780
luo ura, MOl
Ia«ki|> Cliinncl, .').S7

IV-Mnmu, 665

IiiiHilita lilitnd, 24
liiau laUnd, .Si;2
intruaa I»lot. 25
liiu-)>o-yii !*aki and Light-
house, Hl'J
Invorui-iw Slough, 539
InTJuribb Point, 146
liivmiMo Point, 582
loji Imuuu no hana Point,

803
lore aima, 1148
InUionK Wond. mil
Irakomki, S21
Ir-Kaipio, Capo, 708
Iron Poiut, 573
Uock», 615

128 5

Ironi Rh(vil, 099

Ironai<l<wI^lnnd, 619

Iro-o Mki and Lighthouse,
826-6

ImIwI IiUnd, 120, 123

, Mount, 183

, Port, 144

laabulla Point, 379

Reef, 989

I Mki and Lightbouae, 792

iMki Houf, 813

ImIoo Voicano, 3, 73-4

laanotakoy Htrait, 666, 668

Iwsaki, 787

Isena lima, 1166

Ixhibama, 850

lahigaki Ilarboar, 1160

iwa,821

8ima, 1158

Ixhimo ftiki, 818

Iihinomaki, 850

I lima, 787,811

Isi .Sm, 822

Inkarri Bay, 868, 870-1

I>Ua Urandu Bay, 102

Inland Buy, 574

Cove, 423, 431

Harbour, 413. 414

idlands, Buy o^ 619, 626,
680

Inlot Point. 773

Islotoii lMlund.H, 33

IbkU, 1<;7

Ismcnai Buy and Rock,
7:w. 732-3

I«orio siiim, H77

l»ooo9ii Hill. S7i!

IiMannakh Mountnina, 070
Struit, (115, 668

Istupa, 31, 74, 75-77, 1210,
Uol

Buy and Mount,

102-3
Isthmus CoTO, 221
■ -.tmo, Ittliio de'i. 7
Inuuii Nadu, 779. 788, 805-8

Strait, 804, 808-9

iHurno sttki, 815

It ilio giina. 805

Itnien Bay. 741

Itobuaco, 67

Ito()Ang() Lako, 68

Itaha, Uivor, 743

Itahiusk. 743

Itdino xima, 815

It«iyo misnki, 813

It-.uhara Bay, 916

ItHU Bay, 803

Iitygran Island, 711,713-4

Iturup Inland, 73r>, 740-1

Ivory Island, 528

Iwntni lima, 795

Iwani, 863. 870

Iwaijhi .lima, 799

Iwa-wada Point, 817, 849,

854
Iwaya, 806

Point, 790

iwoga tiuui, 783, 1143

1 288

IworiiiM, 1140

I«o Mm* Mid IJghlbouar,

IwoHi Rnok, M9
lye I«Und, ll.M-4
lyo, Cp^ :»«. 7'J7

N»d«.7»«,7t>«

Iirntx k, 6M6
UUp«in< 76

J.bali. CaiMi. II
Jabor WUnd, Wt?
J.bvAl IiiUnd. MS. 006
JackMM lUjr, 4<^

rMwm.>,ft31

, Toint. fiM

Jac<>t>i IkUhJ, CiV.C'H
J:ilit«<). HI. i:«o
JalK-mU lUy, 11 J
Jaluit ItL•^nd^ Wl, 9C6-7
J«l-un Kiror, .VH5
JamM IWiv, SNI
. C*ff, W>«

Mwid, 342, S73

r.iirt, s:.'>, ftaa

lU<ck. 517. HK8

jAincvtown lUy, 034
Jane C>«<<k. ?»2n

I»liiRd. 431. i^9, 1034

Japfcoe**" Archipt>l»trii, Tin-,

777 -fU. 11^4-y«l, 1M7.

U60. ViM, Ac

Strait, 770

Jai«n. Soaof, D14-1C, U8'i,

1213
.lajKiiikki Itland. fiHl
JaittM-n lalin.I. Ui23
Jatdiiiua Iaiaud«, 1037,

112(1
Jnt\i' Island. 02«t
JtmniK-tlo UUnd. H40
Ji-c<aU llMUiiir. S»N4
J>'fii-r»on, I'uinl, 334
J I 111. Cape. 734
JvkoiU laand, im. 9M4
Jiliukhia Wand, 770
Jcmo Iiaan.l.'.»4.i. ;»50
Jimmy Juitua Iflit, 403-4
Jrlikili* IkUn<i, 4!4t
Ji-ntui I'liti.t, 34'J

j.-ijupjitt ruiiit, loa

Ji-mUiut laLind, IMS
JvnUy laUaid. U6&
Jtnrja Inlit. 4^^-7
Ji«M>Ulftnd. N''i2
Jtnijf vama, "'.'O
Jil>>a Kirer, CH
Jiji^inik, Furt,74fi
Ju|uiliaco, I'ort. CC-7
J ill). Kaaliu Kovf, mi
Jitkoff. 771
Juai'him liUnd, 519
Joiiiin Dog>j*>ufT loland,

675-fi
Joa>|ain Ttirer, 249
J< )>i lalaud. l>J2i, 1U23
J-K'. l»«v, 878
Johi, H.'k»{ lU>ck, 223

Jvhu lU.'v7, (>'j1

INDKX.

John IUtw, .317

. Tort. 62i

Juhna laUml. 3(19
Johnaun ChMinal, 631
JolUM4on lalaiMla. I033'4

Il4K-k. HM

JohnMoa* Had. 3M

8««»H, 322, 497,

49R-401

Joka aim* mai IJ^hiluxiar,

HJl
Junaa laUnd, 747
J.>nM ItUnd, 347, 373
J*. Milt, .'iKi

Jonqai^o lUy, 760, 767,

700-1
Jr><)iioit« UUnd. !M6
J<ii\1mi. UiTt>r. :t<<3
Jurkiiu I'uint, 4J7, 410
JoalinfT r<'niiM«U. 4HN
JouiHtDoir VolcAita, 72H
Juan d« Kuoa Strait, :i,M

331. 3W, 3'r2-- 4(14. 1J74
JuanlVrt* Sound, 'i7.'i-A

ICodri^u<a liLuid

224. 220

JuantlU latand, 43
JuchiUn HiviT. HO
Jud.ia. Cmytr, 1>I
— — , M-.unt. 31

, l'..int, .»6

Judd iiork. 417
Juli.t UUiid, .1H3
Juli<> laland, 1143
Julu laland. li:>0
JiuicUun V»—nffi', 413, 415

J'oint, 4»»

Jun««u, Oil

Junk ('*Tf, Hir>

ItiT.r. IIM
Juhj laUnd, VCM

Knalat'a, 1094
K»«toloa t'oru, lOS'J
Kaawii, li'i't
KaUhala laland. 9^^
K.%U >ima \ liny, VOi, '.tOii
KitKv miua, ^H4
Kabuto >aiua. HJitf

Kiki, '.ml

Kalxii laUiid. 1U23

K«da lUy, Mln

Kadi.tk .\ri hi|»'l.igu, 655.C0

HkvU, as:

Kad^i IkUJid, 'VJ
Kadjitori aaki, 7'.'7
KadooUwc lalnnl, 1000
Kadu aiina aiid I^iiflittiuuiH',

7HJ. HMO
Kadi'ta-yaoia Hand, h'i
Kkdiuna, k;i:>

llay.mi

■ aaki, H.H

Kadxura aima, Hlu, H'J3
K^ixnlak. 7o2
KaoM I'oltit, 10V:i, HOVi
Ka^ai laland. t>tj'>
Kii^iiiil Uliti.d. 67o
K«t;4Uii)i guWA, bJl

Raffar* tiniA, Ml

KaitKiio aim* and LIkIiI-

hovM. 901
KaK^'ruina aima, 1 1 4H
Kai^MHM and I^Kht. 7X4
- — , Oulf, and Liiflit,

7H4.4
Kaironi tim», HIM

Ka4llkl. i'*\n\ lOHD

K«h-U-«at M>t Kivnr, 3N9
KaliouUwo laUnd, 1090
Kab-tma-dla Kxpfia. 411
Kahnkui laUnd, 1003, lOOd
Kahului Harlwar. tOH7
Kaiari laUiid. 1023
KuiMf) Waho Channel. IKH)
Kai^ahniw Straii. <'>06
Kiulua Hay, lOHO-I
Katrua iU'y, lii<-,:{, luHQ.l
Kaiwi Chaitncl, ID'.i'i
Kn;aii4l(< l»W, Kill
KaM-k«l». H,S7
KHkiiUa IWy. |()'.I3
Ktk"«iika ii)in<tti>. X'i'i
K>ktivalffa I>land, ).s|
K>tki n» ura stiua. Six)
Kakirouma mota, 1 1 4(1, 1 1 49
Kaki-aaki, H27
Ka-KltHx-l.t, Ca|w, 014
Ivaknu KiviT, li.ji
Kakooa. 10S2
Ka I.ao pMint, lOH.^
Kal.khtMka, lavcr, 729
KtUma, 3U0
Kalaiiua. 10'.) I
K lUiian. Iuy2
Kitlavitla lUy. 701
KalrnhU IUy.fi72, fui
K.ll.'khli*. ('n\M; (172

Kiilitatha, licjl
Kama laiaitd*. 1003
Kaniiui.^ Iltr^Kmr, '<'«'<
Kaiiia-i-ikhi ILrliour, sj;.2
Kamakiirn, K3<i
Ki!Bal«'a lUy, 1089
Kamariii, HO.l '
Kaiii«<-ik, 427
Kaiiiihatka I'l-ninaiila, 7.'l

7311. 74.'i4. liHJ
Kamchatka Kivi<f aud (.\iIh-.

( ••'. ( •<

-. Sea of, (•><•, I
KaiiM'hatakMi. Capo. uiiu

Volrajiii, 7.'7
KaiiM'Ui.aia Pnatan, 096
Kainoiinui It.ty, CM
K^uivii < Ipttaiiuatt Kwck,

744. 740
Kamo ura. WH
Kaiuidit Criwk, R59
Kaainoi, 744
Kanii no K<^*hiki. '.'1 1-2
Kaniinon- miiin, 1 1 lO
K.iiuiii<«M-ki. 7'.'<'>
K.iiuiiio aiiiia, Wl
Kan.iw U<Kk>, ;N4,7'«i. Hid
Ik anil uiiia, HH
Kan.MDiif ItiK'kt. H'J7
KauitU luiun, Ul 1

P*. WKl Light,

flOflfl

•»»«1. lOtto
'P^i*. ftll

h<l. 1065. lu'jf)

Mr 10H7

1023

• It. COO

J) 80-1

lOiia

toil

>'J3

I... N2a

'»i, It.S]

•• "*n, 1149
'J''', ill

ION,'>

ivir, 7^9

r.n

903

r, Nss

OH 9

•illC.jH.,

'. fifil
p«^'. ttllt.

liuci^

ii-a
I

s<i. ata

K«inn<U Mki, Alt

Kumitlrtn, C'^|M>, h71

Kitmona ■itnii, Hi>H

Kitn latnta, <V27

Kitiiittiii*«, 70-t, 'Oi

K iiiHK« InUnii, 6HI

K«n*Ki«(i>ri4 iCtck, '^Stf

KitniiKnwa, 77'.', hj7

Kkhhj Mki, HH6

Kanakiki, l()73

Ktnaaiiwa Inlet, H.'IO

KKn»lo<) Itiirk, HHi

K«nitw« |{iK:k, S4t

Kiiiavn l'<<int, K.l'i. Mil

Kniir.'U lUy, Mil, Htl

KAni'K'it Ktki, I'JU, HUl

ktiMMihti, lO'.ll

KsiKoto, 1013

Kitntthyniii liny, 71!)

Kitiiori niki, 7^'l

Kmion Mtltian'l I.t-ho., H34

K Ill/ill IhIhihI, 'Ji

K (iiuki liircr, '20.1

K i|x'nijnr NUinI, lis?

K^fx-nor IkIaikI, '.(•'i'.i

Ki|)»'ninr<' Ixliind, DM7

K>t-pt-li«h, AIS

K^i|>iMtrn MnUny Mn., M^

Kii|i<iho I'liiiit, 1073

K trnfU, 7IM

K.tr.ifiini> KiK'ki, ll'il

Kiirafuto, 71H

Kitr«K*> l!i»'r, 72'i

KitriiKhiniikaiit Kay, 7^1

KarsKl>>»*ky I»l'«iiil, ll'ii'<

Karnknkuoa iiiiil lift}-, luHl,
liKS-^-l

Koramo limn, RI2

K'\r»-nr.in NliUiil. 770

Kiiruu Ixliiiiil, 7^ >

Kar.it*ii-ii<> lint, hM3

Knrrki InKU, SHH

Kitriyit Ilurtmur, "Sd

Km! >iik, ':.'>'.)

Kii'i]<iiiii'ii Strait, 24H-9

Kiirankuv liny, 1'>'J

K'lntakoTdk, *<^l

Kit.<Hiui yain.t, St 3

Kik'ui »hi', 7m-4

K iMto IhUioI, 7'Jti

Ktt»hi' Hock. N'.'O
Kaaht no uriv, S'JI-6
Kifiru aiiiia, SSJ
K.imwti. ^IM

K^uuwtoUhy Inland, CSQ
Kitiu nima, <JOH
KnU, HOy

Uland, MH

aims, H3;i, SM4, 890

urtt, 'J09

Kat«lam.!t I'uint, 308
Kitolmn Ixlanl, ■■•S7
KatM Mand, UiM, 1130
Kalonii aiiu.'i, 1 1 tM
Katahtriki i'uiiit, 835
Kata um, 817
KatMihMiki, HHl
KttUu ure, 84H-U
Katttiii laland, \Oli

INDF.X.

Kin, iaA4

Kiuai InUimI, |0«IA, \WT,

lOtiM, 11)71, 1(V.IU^1103

Kitutki II it'l, lii8fl
KaiiU Ui;tiid, loili, 11 00
KduUkn I'-iaaMK". 1103
K/MiUnu IViiit, 1U80
K iuimkitk:ii, lOlU
K.tunku yiiiiiH, H^fi
Karaaik rai»it»(ii, lUll
Kavt'ii Ulaada, 'j.'i7
K'tviiiyak lUy, (i'Jij

Kitwii Kuthi, 'tod
KawHihac Hay and Lig^ti

1078. I oso
Kawailoa Hay, 1093, 10'J4
KaWiijiri, "^itO
K iw^ra vaina, 'JO.S
Kawa laki aiid Liffhthuuoc.

n;I8
K iwiiiiri yania, 870
K iw ittlii 11 1\, .s.s7
KiiWfri l^lniiiU, ;y.i7
K tyiik Ulkiiil, 'ill
Knyuk Ixl t, <iai
Ka ymni It-nk, 834, 8 40
Kityx inlitiid, OU
K lyotii aiki, 78(5
K i-y-ni' laliml, 71.1
K.'i/:akavit<'h InLiixl, 77u
Kii ilaikahiki, Ciipu, unJ

Cluiimi'l, 1090
K'lalakvkua luid Uay, 1081,

los,!.4
K.v»ry ICK-k, 8'>4
K<«ttii II ink, 9.')(-'>

liUnd, 4SJ, 483

Ko'i Point, lo,sj

K<n IitlAndM, 1 l.'iO

Uiver, lO'ii

K.lUt niutr, :«■,.'., 371
C'hinnil, 192

Inland and Lod){f,

362

Krtly iNlnnd, 1136
Ki'lp lliir, 477

H.iy, 407,411-12

UlBt, 418

I'utch, ■'>;i2

I'omt, 191, 618, .'»25

Ketffit, 306

Rock,. Oil

KrUimarf, 420
KiMiiano ll.iy, 534
Kiimi, i''>rl, 'I'Ji
Kuniuinow Inland, til3
Kunay Hay, 1 179

I'eninHul*, (550

Kt-ndrick Ann, 430

laland, 1140

Kmmody laland, 637-H, 540,

,587
Keppisl, Capo, 375
Kerainn Iilandii and Cban-

ncl, 1 15.')-ti
Kora limii, 1 155
Kerouart Itduta, 571
Ki'toy Island, Tii)
Kuya saki, 883

1987

Khidutka, Capo, 738
Klialpili, Capn, 744
Ktmlii.iikin, Capo, 711
KlmramiikoUtn IiiUnd, 7,18
lui.urim-koUn I«l,iu 1, 7.;8
Kliilap laland, IDO.i
Kliitkhjukh, (J^p.., 070, 071
KIntrofl, Cap.', 721
KhraintinhDiiko Hay, 088
Khul/M Inlot, 53.1
Ktiul/^yiimU'.n liilrtt, 662
Kilialnu H.iy, \n>l
Kiliuno Point, 791
KiliuU Itnk, 893
Kidl laland, 1128, 1135
KitC'tl^ liilanil. ti7l
Ki^'ilKin Inland, C7d
Kimt«ii, ,S87
Kii Channol, 787, 789, 809

811-1,5, 832, 118.5
Kikai-)^a ninm, 1 1 19
Kiku lalandd and .Strait,

•iu7
Kil.tiiea Volcano, 1009,
_ I072

Kilawalaks, 5t;4
Kill l.iland, 9';.', 9f,7.S
Kili.siU llart'our, 3.12
Killainuck H.iy and Uivcr,

2 ','5
Killilmk Hay, 074
Kiloiiduntkoy Hay, 0.50
Kiludon Hay, ti.V,)
KimliitUlaLtnd^, 1049
Kincolith, 5o;i
Kini{, Cip.', 720, 847, 848
— — Inland, 4US. iUl, MS

(jit'irM'H'a S<mnd, 127

(iiMr^o III. Archipc-

lajf". 594, 007, 1)18

Silmon Uivur, 017

William, Cii\M\ 1018

Kin^comlm Inlot, 502

Point, 633

Kiiiiifi.iher C'ovo, 674
Kin^chorn Island, 489
Kin){kiutan Uland It Light*

house, 851, 1204
Kiiitfsinill Inlands, 930

, Point, t)i)7

Kiii^'miin Uccf, 9,12
Kin-^ui Inland, 578
Kinnahan Inlanda, 550
Kino Point and Hiy, 141
Kinposan Hill, 909
Kiori, Capo, 8.53
Kioto, 807, 838
Kiraiuiah Volcano, 1072
Kirikiri, 852
Kirilovskaia Day, 082
Kirimn yama, 813
KiritHppu simn, 805, 800
Kishu gawa, 805-0
Kini, 705

Kisiku no minsto, 897
Kiska Island, 009,082-3
Kitagcitigh Inland, 007
Kita Kami Uivor & Lid>t,

85U

1388

INDKX

Inl.t, .'-SO -7

Kilhouk. ('•po. fi:o
Kili IlMboar. VHI 4
Kil-i-iiMt Ami. '134
KitiUlii Hill, Ml
Kitkia-Uh. bii
KiUup lUrar. SSt
KiU)u«i Hill. 7^0
KitMKmUlA. .'lau
J\it.Sah-W«tl. ««54
KiUn* no M, H.'lA
KiUon I •let, f>M
KiUu Toint, ^4M

urm N4H

Kittlitx, roint, OHl
Kitty I'liUh. 6.10
Kiumorunui, ^fA
KiuniuUnany Ii>Und, <•'*)<
Kiuciu UImiJ, 7*1*, 7S3-7,

8Hl HWl, 8«»-fllO
KiwMh Ulnml, iJO
KUhuloh \U<k. 3J7
Klamath Utrrr. 272-3
Klamct ItiT-T, iSl
KUprith Toint. 7''.h
KU*kiDo Inlfl and Kecks

443, 444-^
Kla»kii>h Inlit. 443, 444
Klaa-Kwun Potnt, SH4
Klrkanc Arm, .^33
KI«tnto<' !'»•»<)
KlcwnuiTi^il I'
Kliarmkhan.Sufl
Kliik-tM-atli HxtU-ur, 5:3
Khki.ff I'.int. 7C4
KlikoTa liock. 7n«
KlHirhevak Vmk, 72S
Klochcffukai* ViiU-joic, 727
KlokaihiiT* H-nml wnl

Klok»tci>«ff. C*pr, 751
Kk>«ju«'h Iw<ck, 'M3
KIodltT-iatnj) I t and

Li«h'hc'u*', 7''>3
Klu*. 577

Klul»fcny Uivrr, «17
Klukqiuui, ni7
Klon-Kw»ii lUv. 576
KlatcbfTakoi \ i.>k-«Do, 67H,

725, 727
Klotehi, 727
Klykoff Point. 7'4
Kuapp I aland, :17 I
Knight Inl<-t, »(>!

laland, 637, 9»7

Knock«-r Kuck, IS
Knorr laUnd. U3l
Kdox Bay, 4!<H

, 0»pe, 6«3

IijMid, V47

Idandt. 954

Point, 656

Kno) laland, »36, 94?
Ko-ajiro Hay, 8J0-1
KcMUMff laUad, 748
Koa urm, 819
Ko Azikianma, 8f)7
KcUaad IJghU, 779,807,
877

Rnliak Ar»hip«U«ro, 590,
591. «93. 066-0rt>\ 117'.',
IIHO, I2U

Kndo-kopuai Idand, li'27

Kodono aima, 79*4

Kodui'hi Mina, *40l

Kodainc Inlanil, 846

Kn KuUkani, ^hA

Ko-fforo aima, h>.<3

K. »(tuhl Port. NO4

K-hala. 1078

K»-hama, 8 19

K>'h)>lii mma, 1145

K.'ikla IVint, 32A

Ko Imo nitint, NO'i

Point. ^01

K.itUh Point, 3iA

Kujiina laiaiid. ^97

~ Il>l«t, N'JS

Koko aima, 7^9

Kak-Khitih' Arm, 439-440

Kokakar U<M'k. 737

K kumuid Ndif.-, 7"*!

K liiit.liin II. an.l llav, 70'<

K l) I'.iini, lli>l

Kol»* Puiot and Hay, lloO,

II'>1
Koliiarhonik Arihii>< U^'>,

AV4— «34
Kolui Point, 1081
Koma«rid«ki P-ak, 8(t0
Komandortki Ulanda. 721
Koiiio jima, Viiy
Ko Minaai nima, 794
Ko minat) Point, h(s
Komiaantf laUnd, ll'i')
Komoda lUy. '<'.*3
Komod(Vi|>i«ji|vi» Inland, ll'i5
Komo-no aiki, H'^3
Komo aaki, Hii4
Komox, 475
Kwna, lOHO

P.ak, 1101, llOJ

Point, 1105

Vo-iiafra Ufa, 83.)

•<injcWili.«m Ill.Id , H»4
K ji.. ; « l»i(Uid, «■'«!>
Koniuji laland, 679
Konnin^ra laland. 081
K' nobftuuui Mountain*,

1093
Ko no to, 797
Ko no «'cv, ^91
Konaa finuH, ^"21
Kt v,it4ihi»tiut<> dii, 762
Konyan tiay, 712
Ko-ofT" ui!j*, 7W

KucUo. :.o»4

Kocw Ra]r,Ilu*d, and lUrer,

Kiionlvac ItiTer, 891
Kwjtnahoo It Iluadi, 613
KooK* no urm, 884
Kopnuu ilarUmr, 440,450-1
Konck IiUnd, 1011
Korai-no-M lluck, 892
Korua, 767

Ptr*it,781, 783,881,

915, 118S, liyj, 1203

Konvin TaUnil, 1021
Kororinakaia llay and llar>

U.iir, 679
Korofinakni Vnlrann, 678
Korrtir ULind and llarhour,

toil, lOl'j.13
Kora«k< r. Cap*, 765, 706
Koraakov lalanii, 769
Kuru aima, 1 155
Ko«ika('hannid, 891
Kiiaakiivitt h lUy, 760
Koaaki aima, 799
Koamlo, 902

Stmit. 791
Kow'Ukoi Volrann, 731
Kodhiki Iiland*. 910-12
KiHihi no •<■. K'.M
Ko Nhimahi K<h k, 895
Koaima, 785, 787,810,852,

861

Ko iima no hani, 787

Kfk. Nil 7

Koaimf no o^>aima, 789, 881
Koaloff, Ctpe, 728
Koaniin 11-»t, 773
Ki-taounai, 7'>7, 759
K'«».| Kix'f. lull
Koaii ainia, h.".i, ^|3
Kotarnp Hav, 9u«4
K'taak)' Hock, 888
Ko tat«, 914
— _. UK-t, 890
K<>t(io«r>k Hnrboiir, 613
Koto no lira, '.«'h
Kotory Iklanda, 7i)4
Koiai Inlet and Liglit,

7.S7
K itaii »!ma, 881
Koirl>omura, 830
K it/clmc Sound, fi99
K' u laland. 'U>4, 6U7
K> iil>kh Iilami. 1158
K <ii»c>1k^ laland, 070, 071
K'Mijfotj'a, 521
Kouifouan, ('ap<', 711
Kouira«m. Ui»(if, 717
Ko ura. »Mtf

Kouako<|Uim lli»<'r, 6S9
Kouuhou^'umiit, 6h7
Knutoutofl. i'n\^\ (iHrt
Koiitziido. Fort, A9.I, 613
KoumiiK lil<lioff, (*p«'. 72(J
Kovurovakaia May, 679
K >WMi Hivpr, 2hm
Kowoau lU<-f, 1 143
Kowrrjoa Point, 1081
Kowri.wra, I0H2
Koyaki aima, I'OI, ^02
K'«a i^wa, 81(;-17
Krarh«nninikotr, Capo, 725
Krafto, 748
Krenitaen, Cap«. 738
Krenitsin lalanda, 671

, Point, 685

KfnaUGulf, 718

Knlun, Cape, and Light*

houa«, 753-4
Krittkoi laland, 685, 384
KrlfougouD, Cap*, 7t 9

i.1

02 i

J and IUr>

riinii, fl7H

7U4. Tflfl
7rt»

. 700

lo. 731

'MO. 1 2

.. :s7

•■'7

», 7»9, »81

fi9

ir, fiia

704

I
rt07

It AH

. CTO, 671

711
.717

•r, flwg

. fiH7
, (IHtt
»»,), 613
^p<\ 720
V. 871*

081

,'.0i

(\iIH., 7i5

73«
, 871

*1 I'ighU

)fi, 889
, 7(»

KfAnAt.koi, r»p«, tnil Vul-

ri»n<i, 7 in
Kril.lii MmiiI, 1011
KriiKUya, Moknt, 774
KrmiKT, «'«pn, 771
KrMBMUirn (^i*u, 710

UUn<l, (IJH

IiUimIji, OrtO

1(,hJi. 1 1 n

Kru»>v ItUod, U19, di^
KryM M«ii>i, OHj

• NUtuU, art9. 681-3

KiiUiki no ara. Hhh
Kui'hiniiiiu lltrUotir aod

Kiii'htiii Kivrr, 740
K'uUkii Ialiin<l, \V>k
Kudo IliiV, HfV.)
KiM'Kil'Htn Ul'tnd, 007
Kuxm duuirrl, sji
KuhiKhiin r.>iiit. 480
Ktii Miiid. 11 ''>i
Kiiji Mum llwv. 1M8
Ku-kiHn-iwn inUiid, 1167,

UAH. ll'.l
Kaki Mki, NIH
Kulttuliiii, I0'J3
Kulii-h Kock. 031
Kttl-tow-rus. .^Sl
Kulul'tk. lUrxr, >W%
KiiiniK'' "*y. 7'.*>
KiiniA ■!(.:.« llarKiiir, 7^0
Kiim-int-loti Inli't, 637
Kiuni il('it4l, It'll

Ul.uid, It .7, 110 1

Kiim<iwa>l«h, o.'l'i
Kumiiki%hi, ('»('<>, 1073

r»iii.m.', 110 1

Kiiniuhira Inland, 73<'>, Til,

(«17
Kunaoiri I-land anil Chan-

nrl. 7»t-i

Kun-»(a Iiland, ■'•?(;, 677
Kun<> fima, 79J'U
Kuol'M, lo'Jt
Kii|i« •iiiiit, 1 1'<'). 1 150
Kup^r l-itiiJ, :i77
, I'ort, and lalsnl,

M7-8
K.iprianoff liUn.l, 003, 60S
Kiira ni> Kmia, s.i\

liiu.!, St 2

Kuri^t ItUn.l, i>39, 945

Kiirihama, S34

Kurilo Ul;ui<l«, >',9I. 7'ti>

742, lltill. tlHJ, 1187

Slmtt. 7.10

Ku-ri-m.h I.Und, 1 100
Kun no kanii, hH'2

Kc>«r, yii

Kuro iwa, ^06

K:tmi Uixk, 012

Kuril ki> Hiiim, HS7
Kuniini tiina, K9t>
Kiiruinu »«', H'.U
Kuro in> w'o, 1*08
Kun) (Hiki, s.',3, S97
Kuro •*). N'JO

North Pncijic.

IN DFX.

K'traahi, HOf,

Kur-' Mma, 783. 804, 88.'),
8HH.9, 894, 1144

^>.«W 810

KnruiM »o tfio, 797. 1\\ i
K .T ttf^t Hlrait, 79* S

U1I.974.T
■*oi
K *k iki <i.nji, II 14
K >'li%rik /titn, 764
K'l.Htii lira, uou
K>i«hnoii, (113
K'lminnt.i, 81,5
Kiui ■aki.79'i
KiiKknwimn UivoT, 081
K'lit xlomuri, (Jupi), I.i7
KiMiinai, IIHI
K 'inuri, 8i;.'i
K'i«/<ikiiti I'liint, 894
K'ltkwiitU, lit 7
K itiiino timii. 1 1 16
Ki'wno •«), S!»9
K'ltiiaoff, f'lp.', 8il9

|.iUndji, MO

K<iwan-on Hiki, ruid Lii{ht-

hnuiii», Htl. Htl
Kvi.hnk, Uir.r, 088
K wnli'lon SitUnd*, 9»'..^
K w i).il.'iti Nlitnd, yii. ;'i;.'i
KwitkthiiiiClitniiul Jc XUkV,

•'iJO, .V^»
Kwiili-ink, liivor, 091, 09i
K-.ii-»C"iil liil<'t. •V!7
Kvinkflu Itlaiul, loll
Kyifhyntii. •'nfi'', 7t'i
Kvnumi>t H!irt>oiir, JiiS-O
K V'iko Nliiri'l, 1 1.'>6
Kvu<(uot llill. 4.18

Chnnii..! 437, 4 W

Siuil'l, 101, io',.

Ky«, Ijikti, 763

I,iihoiich<ir« Clnnnt'l. ')22
1.11 tmd'nlli'n II iv, 7.'' I
U»ai.' Ko*k, su ■
UdroHH I«Und«, 937, 1037

iiic.o, tr.»o

I,.-i.lnmi'S Ul"!*, 30
I^i.ly M.ii.l. .V.".t

liUckwood r.i.ss;ii{p,

99ti

KUin ^hoh\, '.t'J'J

In^;liii KockH, SJ3

\mo IniimU 'M'-l, yo;
I.1...I.1 K.. f, <1»0

I.:ib1uII I'llllt. lO'.'l

I.ik>i o kit li'iau I'oiiit itiid

Light, lii'iJ
Ijitf' Juik .Strnit, 959

l.<U{Oi'Il lli'lld, t'.l.^

L.i^'iiii.i, Motro ill. Ill, 00

I'nint, I'lJ

L.iluiinik mill Light, 1US7-S
L ijan Hivrr, 4S
L.ik.. Island, .V.'7
Lik-llim It.iy, .').')3
Uik-ch-wit/. IhIiuiU, 550
Lil.., I'yiiit, 10)1

1289

\jim\ IVi»iin)fo, 522-3
(..tnilK'rt C'imnnul, 473, 47&

47H.:)
- IiiUn la, iXlO

-, r..ii.t, ."iio

Ii^moliitoiir Ulniids. |0(I7
l<itiii'ili<irk lilimU, 1007
Litn.truk liliii.lii, 1009
l.tm|M, Uiv.'r, 07
Iaimi I"! iiid, 10<„J, lOOO-ol

lj»n(*i ». I'llrrto ill' l;l, llii

Liii.Lilip .Mniinttiii, !i<)l
I'oint, 533, .)t}tl,

,107
LiniTiliararailii InUnd, 1003
Lin<»iir<l, ri.rl, \M
I.itinl<\ I'lu do, 7').j
LiiiK'li-y, 4'10, 4'i4
LiM/. Iiil;tn I, .'iI3
Liiomirit Ultnd, lli-'i
Lk I'l/, lUy, and lltrbjur,

11.7-170

- lljink, '.I'l'.)

Iitp<>lin UiM ki, 1 1 15

1,(1 lVrim»«.«<trait, 755, 1183

I .aril Uiyor, 7

Ivirriin Ishind, 5'il

Lirtvio .Sound und Ownnnl,

•V27, 5.12, .'>»0.12
Larionntr l'.,int oil 1 Li^'ht-

hnUNi', 770-71
UrkuH U.'..|', US;)
Lkrii" KiM'kfi, nil
iMMtin iiyt Uliind. 1 1 1'l
Lu4 .\muiad Uay uud I'oiiit,

i:.o
r.Hxkir Island and Kcof,

Iil.'-
I,u«k>'. k Iliiy, i"), •''7t!-7
Li.*)ui.ti Islitnl, 17'J. ISO,

4'<»
Iji<.«iiir. ) I/dund, II 15
LiiM.in Miin.l, nil
List lw4H k, J'.iO
Litmiii I'.i.sfiiiTi', 4S3
L'ttouchij Island, ('ii7

, l'i<iiit, i;.i7

Ijitmip Kivor, 317

Lit I'liion, I'ort, and Li^'ht.

:!, iJ0-ti2
l.iap:ihoi, 1077
Liiir.i I'uint, :iH2
Liiiri'tni^i'o, Mrtr, 120
LiuvLTifiii' I>l.inil, 001,005
Liivii I'oint, 10.S2
I,;iViUidoni Koi-k, 28
Ltv.nm, l(ii\ 23
Livirim, I'uiiit, 022, 023,

t:21
L.iwn Hill, 5,si
— Tuint, 445, 570
Ijfiwntncu 1 slots, (20
— — — I'oint, 353, 362
liiwsoii H irhour, .'its

IJoc'k, ;U1, 301

Lr\wyi'r Nlim Is, 539
Lix I Kiiik, 125
Ln.xinaii Itiv, SOO
Laysm IsLi'ad, 1113-U

H u

.;.. ?■ i'*« t8 . ^1 >a» l w -| W

nytf^

1290

INDKX.

t
. t

''I

■"-!

l.syMTH Ut« l{<'<'f, lllS
ImtJKTii. ('m'«-. T''T. 7<'>-'>, 7<1«'
lAKnrn, N? .tint. IT'i, 176
\j\.x\ Caj-^. 47.1. 4*'.l
l^miU'ttrr IV'itit. 312

(on.. 4<*

1»Uji.1. 4:tH. ftS". /<l*0

MiuntJiin, 4'.'«. 4.'i'>

I'lwk, 4M', f.'J4. /i2.V

l'oint,40a, 41S. .',44.

l-.4,hi Hill. iny7
Ij< taoli'THki liiinniU. 704
I.Kxhiqlllir l»lrl», lOli".
ix-dn I'nalit, (i.til
l^.l»» r. int. .VM
l/tMtannTk, Kiver, 717
L.« lUv. If^l

H«-k. ;02

I.«>«^h l>lar.<t. :t»i6

I>r«», I't.inU 49"

l-t-KHinu buy. 'i1

lA^nii' Kork, 1 1*^^

1/ i.'i< p KUnd*. '.''ly

1^ r.ua ItUfitl. ni>A

l4'1<-. I'oit, u>a UUnd. 970,

1*77
I><nn»nr<»* ItUnd. «2'.', 023
Ia Mwurnr, I'.'inU MH»
I,.'niuii. Moual. M>!*

I'mnl, '.'

I.Mn^H^ Kiv. r. 3, .-.4. «7-»
l><nftrU« Ulitnda, TJ
l.«nfr"* I'">nt, 1M
I.<niift Utnii'l. 10«^4
l/on iii'i lAko. 5, 45, &9-61
l><onM
l>i.<.<n<i< I*lAi)«i. I'.'
I-t'inloTif h, <<ip«, CSS
I-.i.k..ff. ('«i*, f''<S
I^iktioi Isinrul, ttij
L«M«>[>i I'uint, 7C'i
I/>-(uai liny, ri7'i
I.<'Ui<n Irlnnil, 'Jd^
liinrin, Cmjm'. 743
K'WK CIumkI. ihV

Inland, '>:i*<

I'lUKUip , •;t4, i\3

!<.■-■(, 40V

Knur. rtOfi

Ii>>ki«(rtori li««f. 1 \h\
Link. <'n)«-. 7'il
I.mliutki^h lalaiKt. AST
I jaii'-ourt K<x k». ''14
l.il UiinJ, ^i, '.t^fi
l.il-'iia. U
i^lxrua lUv. 14'.

• ■ . I'.'.rt, 2:1 1.4. '■.<'.<

I..idit<ll I'oiot, :>Mi, ani, t^:

).i<l>lii' Itland. /WS.',
l.iKhllioUAr latantS. 4fi^<, ITJ

lleiU. Lt>5

I^hu^ 1101

Liki.l> MAwlm M2, S>fiO

1jI«1. l.-.liiti, ','<>.'i

LiuMunt«ur, K«it nj <l«, 2A.',

I imc I'liirl nnU Hluff, 544

UnxxtoM* laUnd. 441i, 4<.«7

_ -- Ii.J«U, ft7H
li^irk, 475

Ijmit I«l»n<l, ')W

l,im..n, r.-rt, .ts

I.inii>ni« Hay. 17.''

Lim|Ha ( .•no'pck'n, PudU
d- la, •.M7-1H

I ana UUnil. I>'9

l,md. C«}« Van .Ur. 740

l.inda i;«k. ll.t.H. lU'.)

I.itii<>n, <'rtp« , 773

l.ind.iil.Ti; my, fi.'S

Lin>la»« Ulanl! lOAO
- i r..rt. S.V5

Linrkinakny. ('j«jh', "4'*

Ijiik'liri4l«u MoBittain, 71H

I.inni*« UUixU, '>•>«

l,inKrh.>t<'n liUanda, 1144-4

I.i«»Mirn., r«p«i, 6W- 700

1,1*1 laliind, 779

l.iaianskT laland. 1114-16
' Strait, «::4

l.iaii i'oint, 17

l.intvunii'h IWiy. 734

l.itll<- IiOaiKla. 704
M.-U. VS
Hat Kmk. ISrt
Karm^hinakv ItUnd,
72 1

Kiaka laland, 6si
Kiutif .'^trait, 7 17
.Stkhin l>i«nd, 0>.i

liituva lUv, r..i,6

I.itikiulaUn.W. 1146- Il.'>6

l>iTin>r»tfin laliuid, '".»4

l.iuu<l I'lxnt. loa, i>«»i

Uui* 11)11. M«

l.lnrdt.., l')'J

Li^nna, I'linta, *4

i.tovd. r.-rt, WW, 11.11,

1 1 .>'j|.;i
l4.l««, (W, 143

— — laland Mid Point,
136

— — laUnd ftsd Hi*ck,
170

]'<.|t.l, \6l. \>u, IHO,

'i30, 241

k/yk, 1.S4

li(>t Ilwlxf'ir. '.'MA
I.. ffii..ff. I'aiw, 741
I., fu UUjid, 447
I^tf I'lul, 44s. 6»W, 5fi7
I."Kaii lii)< t. A77
I'uint, (wlifl
Ix'KO, Kjirr. H37
Li'iaa, point, and LiKht-

hii«w '1*^*', JV'J, liO
l«m« lon^ 4JI, *1!>. Hi

Mi'untain. 14 1
l^mty Nlai.d. ll.^H
l/oii): Aim, 679

I ••« ^ , » i '»

ll.iU.xr, .l*tO

Uinnd, 314. ViO, M»,
'■>Wi, «'i2, liU, dtl, loiu,
IUJ3

T.nf»n po-:«t. filo. .M7, fil.s
l.o«i-rhoo ItUnila, 1148 —

11. Wt, 12«2
IaoI lalai»l, lOK.. 1017
l^xikout, Capi', 'tM-i
I^M.k-onl UUnd, 4tH, 441
l/«(Mitin«ky, MiHint, 7A2.7.HM

1a>|hi< IdanJ, 34.'>, 341, ,461,
3.').'., .36'.!

SoUD.l. iH

Lord Uland. 4:i3

Uland*. *<>0

N.«ih l.lHnd, 102r,

I.<>r«iw(i IV'tnt. t'l, 1(1
L.nt<>, 12K, l&w-l<iU, l«9,

L>aap laknd. !»90-9l
L>an«'i ilav. 744
lAit'i Wir.'l!<><k. 847
L'ltin, Port, 970
l/»uMappe laUnil. 990
I/»Uf(hhon>uf(h liiirt, 497
I.ouf^uBor lalanda, 991
Ix.iiie, Port, 7«">«
liimiM, (W. H7'.t. 870
, Puint, ttlS

KiKk. 379

I/iniM laland. A7A, i77-H
IxiiiiaiiMii' Arrhipt'Uiro, 1017
LiiiiKXMmv, ft73, 6HH

L>w lalaiKl. 3^12, 372, 521)

Island and Ko< ka, 630

- UUtid^S77
Ial*t, H.itl. M'i
laUU, 44s
PtninsuU, 410
I'oint, 312, 4.10, Afi2,
*27. 7«1

— IU%4 and LigkithuH»<>,
,?0

iioek. 434

It.< k», 673

Tuhl. Print, 774

\V(»M!y 1.1 .ndj;, 92^
l/owe Inli^t, SSi\
I/ii«itvim, ('*{''•. 743
I>.w(tiiii«ni, («{*■, 7.'>l
I/iiWfr («Mwrna«, ( .«i»l of,

1:7-9, l.tii, 147 2«J,

1174-*

Kall^ch«tk^, 7.'7
Locjin. I'.itil, '">J3. (..'t
Lu-<)iuiALiiMla,li46- U5ii,

r."..2

I.briiat, V*f\\, 293
Lury UUnd, 4.':X. .SS5

Itmiii'a, '(.Vi-.'d
Ludlow, SWt, .(40
Liitfrrh. ('ap«, 711
Lukf, 776

L.iWunor Ulnnda, 0-.11-3
LukuniM I aland, '.>.'> 4
Liirninan Kwfa, I1144
Lumini latan 1, .14 7. i6i
Luiiiv K*(cr<< dr U, 130
Land" II, <'af>»>. 774
LtinRiir Uixk. 'Mi
I.upona iViiit, \l<6, 171

7. «IH

lua-

1017

•4

H, 441

7A2.7.SM

-«. 74.»

tAl,.l6i,

Lutkt', ( 'ii(i*', 1)70

I. I03A
1(1

H7»

IhirU'iir, 710

Nlunil. <i!»6

l.iixnnn lUy, '>"2
I,u/., r»itit Ui, 172
?.)nU lUrtxiiir, 367

— ruiTii, 117

l.ydia Ulnml, lOOO

Inlnmls, '.»«')

I.yi'll Ulanil, 6'^-<\

l.yiu'h I'oTf, ;142

l.ynii v'lmiiiK I, 009, 6i4-17

I.vi-nii KiviT, 77.'J

i.'vra iHlaiid, l\H

1,'vri' Kivir, ;)2«J

I.ytton, 4)}0

M.tntpiilii Inl.inii, I 14
^I'tcnrii.K iiil.tiMl. 7(>i
Muiartri' v, I'l'inl, (.nS
M.irA»kilI M'in.N. '.i7H
M iDiuiay I'oiiit, i'.i'J
Muk.iw \U<{, 'J77-S
Mr<'«iiliv Ulnixl. .M'J, ;>IU
M<('|. lUii Kork, 0;'S
Mcl»'.n:ild CtK-k, i!tH
Mm I >l"nii.n litM'f, '4:iO
M (ilutli. Muuiit. ''>tU
MachHKuinU, I'liKlrii du.

Ml. h■s:;•;a^ H.V>
Mm k K..f, '.•so
McKny C'..»e, A7S

l^-mh, AIM

li...f, 4.'0

Ml Kayc Hml«'iir, :iM
Mackuiuiu I»1«ihU, I"|||

.. ^ I'liint, '-'li

SouihI, .'Mia

Mmk.rrev. li'H".'
M.t-k f. Anh, -.'li:. -.'SI)
Mcl-auKhliM H«iik. W'.i7

lUv. ft.'«

I'oiiit, ay;/

M. I^ol lUrN.ur, (UT
)l'i> imiiinrti, I'nirit, (iu.i
MiN.il H«y, 401

MitrHl. .{.19

McN.iU, 5'.H. i«>4
M«ii-.«>ii Hiil, •'^'!
Mi.i Kivtr, ill. .'Ti
M i.i*iiuii ' iMUti.l. %!i
.M.1.1M'., I'uiiit, '.111
MaJ.iri diitm. H'*^J
MiUtt iwii, Ht;..\
M.»'i< r» \ >iU-Hi\'>, ii't, 4'J
M,ai»»ii Muiul. uai

, I'.irt, .'taft

M:iilr.', Si.rrii, 7.!, PtO

M.iK'ill.ii""'. f^<« I'f- ''-'■'''
WHi;ili»!fua 111.) ihhI tiiilf,

lS(i-;'>
MiiK'Ji'l''"'' I»!»»"<1. "'■2
M'i|?»' '>'•> "in*". ' !*-•■'
M.»»rtiyt l-lnii.l, ml
jLlugtiyiiirUi loUuil. U'J7

INDEX.

>t.i<itii.fin. lUv, 9, 10.53.J
.MiK'iM.tif IsUnd, -j;), 24, '.'."»

.M M.NKTIf VaUIATIUN, 12J.S

■\22'J
Miiif" naki, .StO
M.ik'uirc, M..unt, 394
M.hil.»ic Ilill. I(il7
M.ihiik.iim, lur.'i
Miimii; laliiiid, '.US
M;ii.lrl IV.inI, 772
M likirimi iKliiidN, 1 1.55
M'iiii I'lmsinfi., fi24. 6(>0
.M.ijn;;uiiv UK t, 10
Mf jiiru Ul.tndu, 'J.')2, '.i.').")
M iKuhiin.ilua I'oitil, |(l7.'i
MikHiirnni IslHrnl, 7aU
Miikiiirinhi Isiiiiiil, I'-'^H
MakiiiUK'iiit I'oiitl, I lUO
Mikapuii, (':i|.i-, lona
M.iki^o g lj»n liiitj. 1089-90
Mnkoim, lOS.t.yo
M.ikf hiiiia, 7.S.!
M.ik)ii..'vli isliuid, fj.'U
M ikiii l^l.tiid, 9a7, 949
.M»ki iiina, 9ii7
M ikoiH hin»k v Bay, (174
^'llkml r.iy, li>93
Miikiini Il.iv, 910
Mnia, Cnyv. t., 17, 1249
Malu du kn ludius, I'linta,

MiiU Point, :5fi, 42
M iI^ii.riK''*.'' I>l;iiuI-<, 1127
Mila.iii r.ws.iiri-. 639
Mil.k. k>in ll^ii'txxir, i(U2
Malaa|jiiia, i(ra/o df, 4!>9
-^ , ('^ix', .S71
- .Ml alt, 47'i, 485
.M..1...1MI klalid. .JU.'i
IVI.ildoha.li) I'uiut and

Slii.i.ii, 9fi-7
.M..l<.<>nt. IiilMiid. 1034
.M..ika<>|>i. lulot. 112
Malleoli lidiu'd, 1034
MHltmwliury, I'oit, t;07
Malwlal iBlnluLs, 'j.VJ, '.i.i7-h
Malcvitma liuv, >>70
MiW)ilo lilniiil. 923
Malti- llrun P. lilt, 708
.MH-niiii Skiver, ;>,s:!
Maiiii'ri, C'.a{><', lu24
Mana, IVint, M'H, n(i2
MaiiB«ii«ft Island, Ul.'i2, l(l.'i3
M.inii^iia and Laku, '6, 4'>,

4.S, .iO
Mu.i.iiti Rockn, 79!, 794

MailH-.Sii in Nl.illiJ, 1024

M iiiiti, ( upf, 7-1
Maiiai.suiu I'nmiontoij,

S29
h( .iitiy, I'oitit, 638
.\faiK;iiuria, Cuiiat of, 7.''7,

71.7 77i;
M^iiKlanii r.liifl", Sir,, SiO
>1»iik1''« I'diiil, 1.J9
MhiikIuIi, 134
M iiiKiuvc Hlu»r, 10,'?
liil,Uid, Ifii

1291

Manp^ I«l.t«, 10/56, 1068

Miin^iii. IhIi t, 10
MatipxTu Island, Tig
Miiiiiiii l'<l,ind, 1023
Manjuji Ib.'iindH, 10.J8
Miuijur liay, 709
M miiaijei! l.'unk, 997
Man-ol-Wcr C'ovo and

I-i^'ht, 1^2-3

U.«:k, 1112

Mansiiiian, 1024
Manlai«;li lblariiln, 9.S2
Wiiuuil Aiitoiii.) ]g|ct, -.id
— Uodriguez ICcuf,

10;iti
Munuula [.airiKin, l9,i
Many.'wii lsi„.iil, 57
.MaiiXitnill.i l!.iy, IOi-(3
.Man/ill Island^ 7J2
.Mi.piu Bay, 370
roiiit, 476, .54 4,

607
M i(|iiinnii Point, 42H, 429
M.ir, llicicnda del, 121
M uaiii.).-. V'.dcanos. .'il
.M.iiMki l^l,■lnd, ',(39, 94S-'J
Maranl Jsl:inda, 1127
Marlili) liock, .■)44
Marchant lini'k, .')4.")
MarcuM Jslaiid, 112.J-0
.Marcy Cfiiniiil, ISl
ilaro Ial.iud und LiKht,

2I,S.9
Marfs'arot Itdand.H, 1127
.Maiu'aii tta InLiiid.«i, 904
M.iri.i Inland, 910

— Point, 196

ICuik, 192

Shual, 932

l^iixara l.-land, 1108

Madio Island, 113

Miriaiiu Islands, lii37 —

lOliU, 1109, 119(1, 1190
MariaH I.-.lanil«, 1 12
.Mariato pLiint, IS
.Miiiii^njik Post, 765
.M.iiK'ti! Psiaii.l, 102(5
Mali. tui4 Isl.iiidri, 1 1 1
.Maiitcli Kivir, 712
Mark IsU't, 407

Nipple, 524

Hotk, 622

Mai'kiana Igliiml, 0.S3
.Miirniot Kiver, .')ii7
.M.rniiinka Kock, 818
.Main.'it.i, lilt

.M no Ke. f, 1112-13
ManpiiM dfl Vallo, Potto
dfl, lO,**

. I'ort. 98

ManiniHas Islundtf, 1258,

r.'ii.,

\I iLjuiM, Point d-d, I.tO
.M in|Ui/^ 1! ly, llil
.Marrtttk l«4and and Kock,

.'>;t7
Marrowhtimo Point, 332
M .r».li.n. Point. 013, 014
Miuah lift, lli9

■|

12'.)2

INDKX

Slsmhiill AnhipeUffo, 9S0-

970, r.'oo

- laUnd, 930, 017,

IiliUid*, 037,U.t6.

9iS

1127

• Point. 4H5

r>2s.

Martin UUn i. 4sr.

IVnui liUnl. :>$

Murtirrvi IkUiiiLi. t>97
Miiriitrstnc, Hint
M.irukwii.i Ul.t<, S02

MHrii-yanui I'mnt. "'M
H.'irviniu lUv, 'liO
Mary Hiutin, 4:»;J
, («|H<, T'>0

O.vp. .'.SI

Inlwui, iVO, 491.

629. .'.','.'>

ToiiJ ]»],% 401

Jlanachajw, 4>»

M upA, 4S
Mu«Ui'lvoe Feint, 5M

>liMi-n»pi Inl.An-J, 102*
M.'iiwar.huiH.tU Ixliind, 11!',

U2J
M.i»(i«or»' B>y, Sfi3, Ml
M ia«i-i llartotjr, Koar.J,

diid ln:.l, .'i7u, .SH2.3
Miuitcrmiii Uict, 507
MivKiii «iin(\, 7'.*", 7Ml
M lUdor ItltTid. 9H8
MaiiMpt Mki, H<>J
'Mf.lijittli, (.'i\|i«>, ;i2
M.»U mtna, ^uo
M»ti»i'binjnii M>untain, 71 '3
Mttttu.t IkImkI, Ti"*
Mikt'I-'Uui Iflan.K 1(H)7
MnU'nrh' n, KiiiM'nHiU, 11.1
M.tllit »•» iUv, 1 1''>
Mitthi-»»m (liniimti, 52'J
KUlt t Ivand, 3'>l
Maiiida (ov(:i, 4'.'')
MntiikmmtA* !'••«»». !rH
iihViyt. lUrlour lUid l.i»,'ht-

h'.iuv. s.'u
M'lUoiW;, 7*<0
M»l> >iiita, hW». HS#0, 901
MiiUuK« uki, S73
M .l«u h»tn». 7i'a
M i'»um»i, H.'tK, MX
.M itaiiia. Kivcr, 883
liiat«u Mtki. t«7*i
— — nimii, 7'Ji», 803, 915

lUiy. »&0

uni, »03 '

MttUr.r lUv, 1021
Mdllh.w KlXnd, 9aC, 948
Mnto.lt' iCiti-r. 2i>7
Malty liiUnd, In 1 7
Mutu Bun*, 91')
Mttv.i lUand, ;<i3
Main Vh Covo, j.')"*
Mou'l IiiUiid, 49i>
Mmid* Uhnd, 474, .'>*(' .^HO
Msui Ifiiiid. U»o6, 1071,
loh.i-luw

MAiinAlUli^kaU Mnuntiin,

10H6
fTiiiU»lai Volii^oo,

1072. lOKO

K«» Volcnnn, lt»72

I /OH V<J.v«no,lii<)» -

1070, 107i, lO''.''
o t-'ka Monntiiin,

10S6

Worrornjr Volcano.

1^72

M.»v. V*i, 771
M:."v:-«»k», S22
Mivn.- I»Un.L 3fiH. 417, 4'.>*
Mi'vii, Uio d.i, l.m
.Mnyor ('h*nn.4, 401-2. 404
M:ie4rri'«k>, IVm^.i iJ«>. 4.'>.'>
Miirttltn and l<ti;ht, /^i,

11'.. 117, 121-0, 1219,

lioO
Mire IftUnd*. 619
Mnco Muiiiit. 19H
M. ..l.urr. Z.l»nd. 9.>'U
M.>,ic mmm, H;>S
MiMTo*. ('«fv, 294

I.injid. 421-2

— , IV.rl. rtoti

iu.f , 1 1 ui. 1 n9

M»<hu<t>< n<i »nd .Muun-

tivin, !•;.'», 16*
M. tid r IcUcd, 31. 22
.M'^iiulU, FiirUUn du,

li},'»4-'>
M..hiy UUnd, 721 722-. T
Mi-<liini lil»!>d«, i»A')
M'tUioA ICvf. n4'>
.M>< k liOttiid, W>5
Mm ithk^Ti, <'«i» , 718
M'vnnn I'aat i^>2
MuuuxKaiina l»Uud4, Il'i7

ili>a, 12W)

Mi!K'if«»ilU<, 2i'>5
M<tini<^iy''K** M'joutain,

713
M .) Ul»n<l, OCK
Mr'tia l«land, 148
Mi-jKna I«Utid. h7(1
M.ji Morti lt.*k, H»a
M.jii lalMwl, '.».'i2, yoO
.Mpk»ri »et«. 797. 7?»»
Ml U ilMid «nd Ijcdge, 831,

''40, 848
M.U»h iUnk, 1124
M. liu laUiida, VA.'i
Mi'lonrii Ulati), I't
M.ImIU:. Port, 1150, 1154
MutiKtyah, 8>«*
Mi'imUi li'>okii, 9H,
Mwuhik»tl, <:aiM>. 6H«
.M< lid'" >,'i'> lJ.»y and vitv,

264-4
, Cap"'. *'t.i«'ht-

hoiutt,204. 26ii-7
Mi-n»hik('f. t 'niw, 7t)j
M<ni»hikuU UUit>i«, '•■i2,

M.-rifiot nay, 49', 497
Mtm^.M*. Point, a2l
M.>r»t latetxi, Uyn
M"r»><-Ti/»r»<«i P(iint, lfi9
lU'rin* Harbour. 1042
MivrUm*, <4HK>, 71 J, 713
M'Ttona Moiiumrut Pc»k,

Mvim lalnad, 10H2
M.<«.k do lioUan, 57
Mt Mtki. 910

Mo«M de Ji).-\n n«niri
Mountaias, 202

Nftr»*.« UilU, 1 80

Mo ttf> liiM-k. HS»
Mf mrnji (iroup, KM
M.«knt>><%r Iilot, 1024
M.wiin.T. I'nint. (142
M lUUmin, Purl. W>
M-4^|;inioo IlMrUiur, 979,

Mt. hitrm, 711
M<trhiKni<'ii>d( tUv, 711
.M<':l«li-C«tUh tUy, .V>0,

.•>.'. I -2
M< xi< AIM Point, 609
Muzirt), 1 15
•, Wi.atroMt.-'S, ■''■■■■

203. 1172. 1173.«, J .,
Mit.li Inland, 'Ji'tO
Mm-^pk mini, U()8
Muki Uluiid. 841
Mm kit, 7.VJ, 807
.Mu uniA. 8V4
.Mi<>u«hi minato, ll.*>8
MkLkI .•% ynii.iir, I'urt, 774
Michiu'i-ivNki, Kurt, O'Ji
Mirhitoyat KiTtr, 74
.Mil h'Micfln, M
.Muruiu^M, y37, 072
Mil-ihiuiiK-; U>ck, li:i,i
.M.ld!..' lUnk, 30.1, J'\i\

JO.'), 4 7'»

Oroaml, 792, 79*
P.<*aa»r'. ft«>

lew, 411

Iw.*:k, .'.11. r.2(l

iUKkt, 548

Mafo Cha«D*)l, 3J5

■ 364
Mid.lI«t>ruok IitUnda, 1117
Miildliiti.n, ('ii(K', lOJl

I«l«»»d.'>42

MiiwaylaUnda,1117~U2'i
Mi.Uii-'nok'V 78N, 802
Mi.Uu aiiiM, 8.89
Mum P.nnt, 42
.Miiutm VuhMu^u, 84 J
Mikrtwa Ikir, H21
Mikomuii) laiaiid i Light-

hoUKi, M.'r), 11141
MikiHo Hiiiia, 691)
Mikuni lC<«d«.N77
.Mikur.t Ul.dd, Hi*
.Miku ura, ''79
MiUUnk Smml, 522, 52KH
Mil.- \Uik i\nd Mr»«kt<r, 4 44

l(.>k» 242
.Mdua Urftv. 608, no

INDEX.

Mil. i«un.i«, ^.v:-*

MillCn^'k. \n
H,U« l.la...U, y-Vi. 9>»*

Minatr« l'">"^' "•*''•*
Minamx urn, "''"
Mi'iamiM IUkIi, HS9

Min»n*i" nuiro, 8iO

Mi"iu>> »«n>»."'*'^

Mi.mt'> Ha*". f-^ „„
Min»to-in»t« lli»y,»l^

. 0»*in>'»- •''^

M,nK«n U.<k. 7i.H
Mink Trap «l"y.5*»

Mmo»>m«. -^.y

Min..t..v.-n»y.** "
M.utol(n.uk.r. •^^'*>

Mio«*Mir4. ■;ll|^
Miojin IrUvnd, 7JJ

M.«vT<M.H 1. :»na, lO.J

Mi *..Vi. THf* ,
},h».X^ lUy. 'JOti
Ml Mina. SS'J
M..uuaN«'»'».'^'* ','•"'

, IViiit, •>'^i

Mi«i»iW', >^>'; '*''-\
M..a,r.. n..rbour. »S0

MiU, r>i'.i*. ''' ,

MiUiri»>. "'••'•'

M.uh.ll luv. .-iot, -n-^

lh\»ii'l, y^'' ,.,

__ __, I'oiut, »50i, oOJ

Mil. i»o. f,'^ , -„fl
Miuuiia I.ut. " :• .

Mki,!^!-!^.

M-u l»l""-l' *" , .„n.l

M..amn..i«''f';; 1 -

Mo.iu-.r.r.uu l»U',"l.

MofT.t. V"»^;,w/

M„tl,i iHk". ;'*
Mr^tfi B*y. Wf

40,

Moimng I.laod, KTU, 1004,

Mo-nf. .»«

p.niBiwlft. 10«

MoKuamoKiiB M'""l. l'^*^''

Moirii S"m»l- ""''W

M ,k»p>i l'«i.inM>l«. \093

M .kliuav«y r-'nin»"la. '*'**
M.kil lilen, '.>7«
>j„k..r Isknd, '.(93
>Ioko itiiiia, HH5
MokuoNiki UH, 109-2
M..l.KH*f. '.IM
M..I. «..jok, loli, 1«13

- bU.wl. U13_

M..lokai UUml, U)t..., lO.l.

Moli'k.iu UUin.1. U)r.4, lOiW
Muhnlui lUy. 10'.»)
Muiiil"t«, HOH

M„iii-l>Hilio Volcano,

M..1HO simft, SOO
Moinotona.iU IVik, ■n
M Miintoinl"! VuK-iino, .1, •>!

Mouu.tori *im», »-!
Muii»l»l'-«n''- 27
M..uanh H.H'l. ^l''
Monday Slioil. 44 J

M,.iii(a Hay, 214

Mouiu Hi»v. -■''

Moiuta- Miin.lrt, .7

S»no. UUnd. 101.
MonkonnistiyUaml, .i!'

M....k- Matid^ '»}:.
MnnnoronMnnd ..)'.

M„n».rrat.- bland, 1<';S
M„M'.iKU fhannol 4>«-

l»Und, 01.J. «'l--^

M..nUs"..o HarW.ur ;i-J

Islanu, 1 '•>

M>.nUna K"tk, IJ'l

r,.int, 2i«

"Mont.n.y,Hayof,l'.»4,-!0.

•Mi 4, 23S
Mo.a.T.y Kivor. M3

M.nl-v.TdeI«l."dH.9'*'^

M.ntK'omm- l.l^'"''". "•• '

Montijo, Hay of, 18-19
M„nluo»a Inland, oU ^
Monument I oint.U^^ 10T2

^,^:;:;;^.ov,,4.-.4 405. 107-8

Moor- niam»'l:.f '

-1hI.«, loll

M,ndvinotU'aro.-.0
M.r.no U;..;kH. 104

_il!l!: l^^i.o. a.^, 373

, I' irt, 1017

Mori UoaJ". '^'"'^

S77.S7«

1105 ---

1293

Morioka, ft'iO
MorjovilHland.703,704,70

Morjovskoi, 686
Morjovy, OCR
Morlovinov lUy, 752
M.>rninK ll'ff'*, o36
Moro ULind, 212

Uock, 229

Moroici llMtf, 831
Morokini Island, 1090
Moro sftki, H22 _

>U)r«)«liot<hnoo Uivor, .11
Morotoi Inland, 1091
Morotsu Hay, ^03

. no si ma, SbU

M ToUn. Capo, 7M
Morr. Upland, 1123-4
Morrii Hay, 530

U*)f, 02H

Morrison llocks, 1 144
Morro, tVrro. S7 .

Ko londo Point, 192

__^ Ko«,-k. 9'> „

MoTrulinaco Uland, 1090
M iri»o Iftlaivd, 371
Morsea, r.H5

Island, 703, .07

Morr^biia Matiiga lslwi«.

MoiUl^les. 970-1. 991.3
M.«*.i.uio ILurbour. 422

l'a8«!igu._ -111

^^ Ui»or, 774

Mos» I'aMsag-. 530
M.^ttridorHiV. 173
M.t.'tcoz.-u IbI^'iJ. 10O2,

l"^*-* . ,1.1

Motomi. Mount, 1143

Mot.) vama and bhoaw,

"»4, 7'J'>, 7'J*')
Mouatt ("hann.ll, 402
■ ._ K.M f, 401
M .unoul Island, 979
Moulo Hay, 70_H
MouraTii-flf, 75)
M,i,nl."x Islands, 996
M.msoHo'k, 52S
M„w.« Inland, lOHo

Mowiteh liivor, 270

M„/.i«aki,793.794

Miuhilat Arm,4.U

Muckshwanno, »6o

Mud Hay, 628

Ulandi, 5o3

MudKO. Cape. 321, 473. 480,

494 ,, .,,
Island, 38 1. 473

MmlaMot, -3
Mu«lle Wock, 71
MiurU), I'unt" del, 23
Muorto«llay. 1"*
—Island, 28

M.iKi "wki, Hl'J
Mugu. roin(._il5
Miikai sima, I'-H
MukiUoo, 342
Mul.RO. 155-0
Mnlgrave iMlandt.jJoi
, Tort, 'j3(

671,

^Fsm

V. '

V294

Mullin* IiO*n<l, 4H
Muloffskv, Call". 'S'J
Multonoi'niih liUiuid, 309
Mumrnoki. yul

Mur» H*r»H.ur. M".t
Murnto Mki. 7'*T
Muratu'f I'romontory, 770
MurnfH'ff W^U 11H«
MiirrhiMti IiUnJ. !>1S
Murrit liuixx InUiid', 43
MiirJtr (vv»., COS
Mtirotu no »»•, S04
Mi.»i.T»v<' liiltndt. VTS
Munlii (imn. T'>7
Mil nm», T'.*',*, S'.M
Miimr lKl.in>l«, 7.°<8
Mu»iir Ki<k. 76C
MuKiiiillo UlinJa, 9r>5
MiiMt'k^t Itianl, 'X>''i
MuaMl InM. .VII, A3J

K.<k. ill

Muu.ll r< int, MH
Mutin* I'uint, 4' >
Mutiny Khv, 3:U
Muuiitia lUv, 7t5
Mutok hUn'a, V.S2
Mutok»loi 1»M, l*f*2
&luUurv UUcil and IJght-

houte, T'A'-l
Mulau tima, HOO. yji
MuK'D, (ape, OOC
JkUIur r<iiia«uU, ItC'i
M vtiip. T'i7

M>>..rv ItlrwtU, 102J, 1024
MviUry lUxk. 488

Naa UUnd. 986
N.MC.^k, 641
N.<)mi riiiia and Kight, ROO
Nma>.iiU' Hirer, Ah
NatsMilo, I'url. 45,47
NaU!.-<K*Ja 1^1 iml, 741
Nadcii i'mtii, liorbour, and

Kivur, 6»4
N .d.fth.ia Hay, 760
NadujMn liny, T40

1 < ap<% Hfll

Htnul, 739

Nairahama, H<i7
Nkk^ h.>aa ura, M2
Stt^nxxi.'j \U^{, S>i, 914
NiikTutio alma, '.•yi
N.'wan 1* ainia, 114.1
Katraaaki. 777. 779.

7S1. i»03-4, l^iCii. Ac.
lUy lif, h'./h

Harbour, 9U

laina, 909

Ka«r« aaki, 796
N,iKiw«iim mnia, Ml
Na^ia KiiiiA, 9uh
Naf(a>u no un, H'Jl
KnKaUi, 795
N»ifaio »ima, 79"
Na^y Ulaod, CCO
NaKibaU. lU<k, 'Jol
NiiKounalmka laljuid, C'2
Nugyya, »o7

•SO,
•«

INPKX

Nafrth, 11. S3
Niifiiwcoln, Port, 47
Nitir nra, Ml»-l'.l
N«hrnint lli»y, 41i\ 412
Nahwitti liiar or I/tdi^c,

.'>()7, .S'W AlO
Nai-ko<mnill,»Si
Nitipu|<ii, 10H3
Nai<|u«« Spit, .'>Hi
N«iyi% urn, *<19
Nii)ka»>.u, 7A'.t
NakaiU.n Cbannt'l, H^.l

HifM, H'.»J.,1

Nakai no aima, HSrt
Nkka Kr«)iika, VI! 12
no •«>, 802. 9U

- — nti aims, 7S7
Nnkitxi. 810

N ik^ (iniiv, IMA
N»k»t I 111. I, WO
N^kl.iMki l»«v, 7*3
Nakk.> iUad. 7AA
Nakm k, Ivivir, fin?
N«k-wak-io tUpi.la, .Ml-12
NaUp lalapda, 9*^3
Si.l«Uh.»I, C*|.«', 72B
NaUu Uland and I'aaaagi-,

.')iO, .').'4, 42.'>-«
Nama Inland, 941
N.tiiiaur laland, 99.1
N liiia ura. "^92
Namliu, Capo, and Light-

tiouac, ^>3

IVum'ula, ».'»«

Namingawa, H4H
Naniilcrum.i finia. 11 .^H
S'aii.olm.'ur IkLtii'lx, U>oO
Nauu>iipiafanv lalan.la, 990
Nimoluk I aland*. '.n)S
Nanxnititi' lalan.la, 99^-7
Niinurik Uiandu, 9<i2, 908
Niiniixi Iklaiiila. 'M'S
NaiiKiuinp lalan 1 "Jfi

N amour. >uaa« Ulin.l, r<9'l
NaniuutU-k Ialand>, IiH)0
NaiBtui-Koi laUiid. 'jtiS
Namu it >rt<oar, .^'.>0
— ■ — liUn.la, !»6J. •JC'i-a
NaiDur. tk Ulaii.l, •^'•'
Naniurrvk lalanda, luOO
Naaaimo Il«rbuur,372, 3>«'.*,

4f.'.»-4 71
Nnii«o llar)>nura, H7'»-fl
Nina aliima n.. mUu, 'ni
V.ina iiwa, ti77
NanavalM-. ll>73
Nanok, |{iTpr, <Hs7
N'jinfi.ya, Hi2
NuMiuiak taland, '07
.Nan'»*«' iiarlMHir, 474
N ^iii.n K«k, H'.it

N (ll'.LMUllu.j^iutt iwlki', G'.O,

<>-'»7
Nan.juki lainnd, 944
NNn.>uti lalami. '.'13-4
Na Tall I'.xBl, Il(i1
Nnpha-kiaiifC llarliour,

11. '.'1.3, U»J2
N aiMtlifuU (j ttlf, 772

N'arnniv TaUn.l, 18
Niirinjfi Point, 3.'»
Nar«njc>« l"l<>la, 3H
Niirrow Inland. .XS.Vnn, ,',24
N%rr"wifut CfM-k, 4:l^-9
NnruM U.K-k. 7'.M, 794
Nam aimit and ••('>. NQ't-l
Narul.) Paaan^, HiU, 804,

h'W-.SU
XiifalKock, 314
Niah lUnk, 479
N» aima, s'<4
NuaoK* (»nlf. *rt2
Naap^rti Iiilrt, 441, 442-.1
Naaa 'Uy and Uiv«r, 4'>«>,

Mi-i
NniM.too InUnd, 314
N.ta, 11

Nnl-a-haU lUy, 294
NaU-hikinakoi, ('ap«, 720
Nathan, ('ap«, 44
N».tiTid*d UUnd. 192
NaUun^Mi uki, h7'.«.H.SU
Natau ■tma, H3rt. S,V7
N«utiliit U'-^t, Mi"*. 1130
— - Nhfml, 94 1

N.v^rhiatA. \ktc%, 134
Nitvwin. Cap*, 720
N ttidid llayA lipud, 107-H
N.ivy Chaoi'i. 1, 3(iH
N»wiliwili iiarlour, IIOO-I
N^wikIi Inland, 9&0
Nawu^i^ah Kir.ir, 293
Niyt^lnik Hay, 77'J
Naat. Harl>jur, 114H
Ne-ah-kah-ni«i P<«k, 294
Nrar Island, O.iO

laJatiiU, KN3
N.«v»« Man.l. 111-^
NiH-h«nn« liiri-r, 293
Ni.«:hiaon* Hook, H'j7
Netk Point, .Irti, f.1.1
N.sk.r I»l«', 1109.10, 1 1.>4
N"<H»inanrhv Kivtr, 314
N.U Koika, HIT
Ni«a)i iUy. :tiO-7. 3u3
NiNdl.- M.mnUia, 727
NcttiU pMk, 661

I'.vtka, 441

U.«k. 43 4

Ni<.dl«a UK'U, 1131
Ni«Klrhan,('ap«. 711, 71 J
N< tftda Points 19
N'r^r-Mina ura. N18
SiK> U, Itliiff. 23
N«Kr.taa H.«ka, 3H
N'rtrro, laU>, 19A
NohiUxn KiTvr, 296
NokaiM'kMcnCrMk, 297
Nnka« Kiv.r, 293
N»llv l<»«ka, lHf\
NrlaoB laUnd, 4H0, 4H7

, Point, S>»

Nt-inura and Li^bt, 8o3,

H<xi, 807
Ni'lwan, Point ij.'H

Koui'd. 644

Ni'prvp I»l<-t, 6i0
NuiULuitk, lui, 700

INDKX.

1295

1794

}'. H91.4
SOJ, N04,

"•r, 4,'m;,

III

N
». 7-'rt

lui

■">7
I ISO

•I. ior.8

'. IIOO.I

ill

I'M

I. 29<J

7
6

". 1 1 a

311

rij

N.-«)>itf, Point, «ni
N-KtiiKK'th iiiviT, 'J93
Nt'ttlii llMin, 6:iit

- lui mil, 414

N.'Uikuh'l Uiv.T, 317
KcTaChxnnel, fil9

Uland & Shual, 1114,

1115

, UiriT, 75'2

Ncvarro Uivit, 'IfA
Nuralikoi IlKy. TAS
, (•«,«.. 7(U

Nerille InUml, li)^6

, I'ort, »y.).AO0

N.vrki Strait, fl27

Nuw lUnk, 44)4

i'hHiin.'l. 3r,0. 37n, 510

- HwUiur, ima

IhImkI, lu.i;J, llus,

1115

I'aUh. 515

, Point, 317

A1)' rili>«'n, 5'Jl

AUiion. 204, '255

Archangil, 6Ul, «32,

11 SO

lUlJayo InUnd, 1033

UriUin, lOlS

Cornwall. 465

I)iinK>'neM Hay and

LiK'ht, 329 330

l-MJyatono Itock, 696

U«H>rK>a, 301

OnutaJ*, (-"oMt of, 1,

6-31
Ouine*, North CoMt

of, 1014, 1017 1024

. Ilanovor, 455

H.lv.-tui, 205

Ir«Und, 10 IH

. l>annlfy, 4<)4

Mwkit UUnd. !> 15

Nantucket UUnJ, 932

•933
( >Tl.>«nK, 239

Philippino IsliinJ*,

970

H»n nioffo, 210

— — Tarutim, 3:!S

WoalmiMtar, 457,

463-4

. Voar InUnd, UtiO

Yolk IdUnd, 930

Nrwr.iallti, 33ti
laluml, 389,471,

472
Nvwvnharo, Cajw, 'IHH, 6«9
Ni>wnutrk)'t, 340
Nuwport, 291

. -_ lUy. 211

Haritour,

«o3.

112H,
guna, 797, «U0,

1136
N>'«uini

Nt^aruatiKl" •'•'•f' "'l*
N^arvk IiUii<i«, 0S7
Nxatik InUiidn ''<>7.8
NKoli UUikU, li»n7-8
Niaur lalaad, 1015

N icarncna, Toast of, 1, 3, 5,

44-»54, 1172
, Lake, 3, 38,

44, 45, 49-50
Nic;hola», Fort, fi52
Ni(:oya,(»ulf of, 37-40, 1257
Nii'Kata and Li^rhih'iiixv,

779, 7H0, «07, H71, 873-5
Ni. 1,... Crvek, 295
Ni;;i»i llay, 830
Nu- ., Point, 1047

NlKrrtlUI Uo(k», 38

Nihoa Inland, 1064, 1071,

1 105-6
Niihitu Island, 1685, 106G,

li>71, 1103-5
Nii Hinia, H43
Nijni Kiimrhaikn, 735
Nil! la, Ci«r)«, 717
NikdlK'VHk, l<\h, 766
NikMlairtfHk, 1184
NikolKk'ii, 079
Nile K<xk, 486

Shoal, 1001

Nimpkiih, UiT«r, 604

Niiiiilioun, Cape, 717

Niiiinolchon Harbour, 976

Nino, Hio, 38

Ninatinta, 673

Niofa, Cape, 1153

Ni(K)n Island, 77R. 815—

1*41, 847-N57,871, 1188
Nippk) Hill. 196
NiHhilxtd Uiv.r, 806, 867
Niahi no ura, 91 1
Nfhiomoti' sinia, 1158
Ninhni Kasiihitka, 727
Nuiinaka Itav, 7'.i')
Nini iiima, W>3, H79
Niii lira, 79o
Xisi-wura iaki, SSH
Nmnn-nna P^.int, •i27
Ni«|iially and Kirer, 311,

339
Nitinat I<ako, 40G
Nuiln, li)7H
Nitimalti, UOl
Niwatori jima, 798
Nol, Met, iOJ

I'nint, 409. 445

Nnbl.! Point. .V.'3
N(kU1«« CanHl, 497
Nodul.' Point. 333
N.hI. i'ort, 968
Nl-iIUi, H'>7
No«ali'«. 137
Nomuk, Ciijw, 670
Ni>k.t no haiia, 798
Noko-Rhori yama. 839
NokoTia Uland, 790
Noko-no mma, 8H2-3
Nnkubi Hay, H91
NoiBii no h:ina, 909
Noma no Uko, 909
Noma Kakt, 822
Noma »iina, Hil9
Noiiii HarlxMir, 787
N,,mo, ("up.', HBd K."k 9^0
Nonio Mki and UtK-k, 906

Nomo mki and nra, 898,

900
NoiMo yama Point, 900
Noneiso, Cape, 741
Nonouti Ii4and, 043
Noo-narl>ook Iidand, 698
Noon- Day Knek, 269
No-oMki, SOI
Nootka Cono, \'A

Island, 430, 432

— Sound, 277, 392,

401,426-432
No K Ueef, 882, 898.

914
No Point, Paint, and Light,

334
Nopolo Point, 160, 164
Nord. Ilo du, 944
Norfolk Sound, 619, 629
Norman Point, 479
Norris Uock, 375, 478
North Arm, 424-5, 468, 680

Bay, 317, 350, 371,

749, 730

Hay Reof, 814

Proakor, 626

, Cape, 277, 708

Channol, 423

Harbour, 448

Island, 6H5, 0*50

Island & I>h1i^««, 530

Passago, 6V2, 540

Point, 503

Point and Peach, 244

Houf, 376, 377

Itock, 474, 611, 649,

Hocks, 548

I»iingt>r Rocks, 548

North-eaHt Harbour, 747
North F.injland, 054

Fork. Till. 4C.4

North-wetit Pay, 475

Cont', 433

Hocks, 548

Northuniborland, Cape, 595,

598
Channel,

470, 473
Norton Bay, 694

Sound, 501, 091

Nonaki sima, 891

Nose Poak, 446, 448

No 8ima, 891, 901

NoMima l{i>ef, 813

Nosima saki find T.ifiht-

houso, 831, 840. K47
Nosovskoi & Volcano, (170,

671
Nossyab, Cape, 755, 756,

871
N(»»vam, Capo, 806
Notch Wand, 790
Notched Hill, 474
Nofotu, Cape, 762
Nolo. Capo, & Lighthonso,

H71, 875, 870-7
Noto jima Inland, 876
Notoro, Cape, 868

V2W

Notoro,C'npc,& I.it^htkonM,
753.4. TAfi, T'--^

Point, T .'

NotoMiinii Hiv, 'M
NoUko 8pit, S6«?. Ml
Nuucba^kk. Ilivrr, 68S

Nouiio»Bf(«n Iniot, 714
NoiiniKfOMo ami C'«p«v, 70'.>
Nuunitiilc litiaiMl. 6hd
NoualMftmk, liiTor, 6«8
Norik U«nk, 763
lUy. 770

NoTowIroT, (.Vpo-, H70
Novy laUnd*. 7<>4
Now'till, Point, 646
Nowtah Co»c, 531
Norabaf, Cnpv. and I.iertit-

hnuM-, S(13, 8(V6
Nu)>l>le Muanuun. 'XH
Nul>U(U UUn.i, li>31. 1032
NuciuktliU Inl«t uid Iw-L,

4U-4
Nu«To Mexico, 130
Nu^(«nt Sound, A 12
Kuinak lalitnd, flGO
NukuMU Ulaiul. '.'40
Nukuor UUtida, 0KM
KuUto, CUl
Noinukaini* Itey, 407, 411

NuDMDO, 709

NuDiwark lUiind, es».C<>0
N'urki P<>nin*uU. 746
Nutrh. k iUy. 643
Kuiuuiu Valivy. 1093, 1096
Ky. iiivcr. 7.'>,;
K\'*aiii Puiat and lliT«T,

7.%K, 759
Nyo Kock, f)!!
Nyglfiiygmn, C«pf, 711

Oahu Uland. l(Xi3, 1092-0
Oak lUv, 333, 401

IViltit, :•.'>*. 308

Oaklnnd Ilnrliour, 247
Oar (.'hann< I and Ui-^ t,
1160, 1161, 1152, 11^2

Point, A4«l

(>At-M>-alis 619
Oaxaca, HI, U6
«»l«ni», 7y7, 7y«
<»be Hato ur», 7V7

< »liinuiii Kiver, h7l

Ol tapo, Kimllon d<I, tfii

< iVmian Hay, 7.'u
(•bnt- fhaiin.l, '»'"'. 913

liUnd, 8''1

l»V»frvtttJon I»ltl, il'j

— Point, 661

Obwrvatory Itlit,

664-5

H64

421,448, 8U4

laLu.d,
ULt,

661.
7<J3.
411.

I'oint, 32M

llxck, HT>
liocka, S93

Obatniction Ialand,424

lalanil and Pa*.

mf(m, 361
<>cc*n Cnp", 636
•K'<HUi lalaud, 949, 1122-3
(Ma, H73

( Via Day and Point. S02
tKUwara IUy, 829-Hul. H30
OiUyama, 910
( ><iia Ulanda. »«2. Mtt

0,i,.U', .S('.8

• Kloauh llay, 7A5-6

murn, 818

Old no oe, 7Hrt

< KltttM aim*. 801

• Mia-kunii •ima, 831

I ><lrutaii iUriii>ar, »:>' >.5'i

< »fiiwi. Cap.'. 871

I >irami Pinnl. 903

I VuAw«r« ai»a, 1 1 29

< igmwa aama, 914

ORdati ('hann<<l, .'k37, 54A-9

Pi^nt. V.t9

Offo *ima, 798. hlO

IVninaula, 972

lt«r. 873

OkI*' Uiiind, 1146

< Vlo'lak Inland, I'M

• 'itaoM Harbour, IiircT,

and I.i«ht, 87 S

< •h«ra no hana, 801
(thata, 8.><>

< ihi^Ukex, M4

I ihiak liay. 659

< ihiirn« »aki. 847, fl4A. 849

< 'ho aaki. 8,>J, Stil. Hs*8
I'ho aima and SUait, 1147.

1148

Id) aima llarliov, 7a7
(>-ia«>, 811

Uji-na Ialan<l 876
(i|ika laiaiid, SUl-3

— - e«tu. "91
Ojo P.)int, 2ii, 27

— L»« lin« I^ifpion, 195
ttkado P..iiit. 8()1
Okninion daki Munntain,

78j, 910
( ikamora. 7!*9

< ikawa Point, 873

(•k>' laland and lir«U, 629
«ik<l«<, (•;••■, 740
Dkhotiik, 746.6, 1183
(tkhotak. K«aof. 742-7Ji,

11>2. 1213, 1229
<>ki laUn'U, 87<j

1 iki llil«n Mma, 827
(ikiko Inlani, 'ti

• •kmawa Mma. 1147, 1150-5
( >ki no iaao. ^02

(»ki no ae, 821

(•kino ainia, 7x8, 812. 833,

"7'.', 909
(•ki anil*. »00, 801. N99
I *ki aima and Channel, 9U2

< »ki>yam». I'ort. 804
(»ku'-J.a«». 748
(ikiithi llnrljuiir, 894
okuun Island, H'jtf

613.

olap Mand, 99S
( >lcl Port, 675
Oldham k«ck, 893
( MoandT Hook. 82S
Oljra Hav, 774-5

(Mil/, 619, 626-8
olimarao Iidan<la, lOOO-I
olioulor, l{«ck, 724
olivalM liocks ^15
(Hot lalaiMl. 1)57
Oluk«U«4 Ia)and. 1613
( tliitonkoi, Uaiw, and Hulf,

720
Olymjiia, 319.340
OiMnpua Mouniaina, 318,

322
Omai aalri and I.if^hthouac,

823. 833, 839
O.naaaki aiwa, 8.VI
Ortili*ltni laland. 963
Onmim, C'apa, 744
OmiaMM, 52S
(»mi aaki, 816
o-ni aima, 7M
O-mitau yama, 893
Omman^y, C^p«, 606,

'■.|9. 634
OmatnfH' Vc4««no, 46.
O inur<« Oulf, 8'>0
Omura Kock, 1143
OnanfC> aima, 845
OnaU laUnda, 1024
Oiutraro laland. 960
( >)i<>aka. 945

N.«l Uland, 357
On«*l iiock. lo.il
(»n'MO« I4aod, 1103
( tncmak IsUnd. S*66
One Milo H.icka, 242
Onr Tr«» lalat, 509,

655
Onffai Iilaad. i)7S
OLKolukkic Kyknd, 844
OiMchiudu lUN-k», 8i3
( »iiia aaki, 822
(Mint-bitwu iUy, 741

< •nnckoUtn liiiind, 738
(>iin<>lak(<. Mount, 1161
On<mt<M liLtnd, '.i4!
Onuhtra Kmki, 8«4
( tiiiKjun UUnd, 297

1 >ii<><iu(> UUnd, 9'.*7
Onaluw. Pouil, 6o0,
(»tiulu laUnl, 941

( ►■■ Aiika ittma, H87

(Miiki ura, 812

(K'l^wa tima. 884

( ko-^hi-e-ak li.jck, 698

( t'xlaauiir, 7oU

( K,k» mura, 900

» Kma lUy, 549

( toua«ar<'. Itock, 827

( Mirtla lalaiiii, 674

(MiliiiK, Port, 1150, 1154

< »o n ai', HH4
(•<>r.>k<x' Island, 1C12
O.-aka, 7 79, 789, 805-7,

837. H77
, Ciulfof, 788, 806-S

653.

603

RRESET^

■i6-H
IO(M)>I
14

\:>

1AI2
•nd Oulf.

ina, 3 1 H,
ckthouM<,
I

6rt6,

ni2,

, 46.

4 'J

!4
>0

■

\iS
Hi

5oy,

553,

7;iH
1151

, t>0'i

r
r

', 1154

, HOS-r,

(

f^o mki, 7S5

l>o •im«, 842, 8:)2. 883, 890

>o iimaft I.iKhthouw, 7H.i

Oo«iii,» lUrliour and Liirhi-

houte, 816-18
Oo»uk» Hiirbtiur, 887
•toUake liock, 888

00 Ut.', 914
'•oUtooitnii, 889-890
UuUu mki, 787

' »o unt, 803

"ponlky, 371, 462,491, 518

'•pruhnik b»y, 776
"ruililipoulJank, lUOO
' 'niluk Inland, 9,sa

1 >ri«n(fe I'oiiit, 49.1

Or^w Inland, 351, 353-4,

•!•').'), 3r.2-4
"rca. Ni.l. I'uak, 356, 302
I ifclianl, Tort, 335, 337
I'rechuua Island, 1105
Unjgon City, 30y

, I' mat of, 277—310

Orekhof hland, 774

Un'ord lliiy, 494

, (ape, and Litrht-

houtc, 2.^3-4

, I'ott, 207, 282-3

■ Keef, 284

Orirtiimtno I'aswurf, 560
nriKsn Uiv.'r, 2TH
I "ri-kusa kawa, N52
KrintNi IgliinJ, 958
(»niillrt8 I'oiiit, 157
Cruji, Cape, 759
Hrukui Hay, 75;)
Orulong Island. 1014
(>ro no aima, 8S1
tirwti Volcanic, 3, 44, 46
( ina. r.,iiitilVninaula,lu 14
()«aki Day, 812

diina, 798

(tuawa, XYi

( i.t>urn Hay, 370

• •«U)rni^ Island. 558

I i*ar I'lUMf,'!'. 531

nta «uki & Li^hthouao, 8'.)0

OnhaniU', 103

iho iUx'k, U09

( I .Shiraahi lalet, 895

U »ima, 797, 818, 819, 801,

880. S95, HU8
Itjjirwy Ilrfaki.'r«, 786
(Mwtnal l;n<'ka, 44
(lutnino Point, 768
(intriirki l-UnJs. 704
Ihtiruvni I'oint, 773
Oiiiilii liiv.T, 104
(tu ChiJ, STO
(»tai yaina, Nl8
titikam I'uint, 896
ouruliiy. 870
i lUrunai, Hi)3
( ita laki, 809
( )ut'iut>, 803
OUwa Hay, H90
OUluk Ulami, 642
Uldia Island, 05S

Aor/A I'acijic.

INDEX.

Otflntosama Sea, 908

< Herranai, 808, 870
Otmoloi, Cape, 761

I'oint, 630

Oto Hay, Ifil
Otonaahi, liivor, 817
Oto no8(), 893, 897
Otoqiio Island, 17
Otolsino, Ciipo. 1 149
Olra Island, 1125
Dtsigi, Ciipo, 7()0
Otatoia laland, 623
OtKu, 807, 877
()-t»u-no lira, 834
Otter Anchomge, 654

Bay, 381

Covo, 490, 497, 631

Mountain)), 379

Passage, 545

- Point, 393

bhoal, 635

OtU;r», Bay of, 672, 673

, Isloof, 681

, Se:iof, 661

Oiiiilan Island, 975
Oi'hoiii;>inat liilund, 652
Ouiln, Hiver, and Fort, 748
Oudaj^iigh Channel, 674
Oudakm, Fort, 748
Oudsky Uav, 74H
Oiifktuk iHland, C71
Oiif:;aKouk Uivor, 000, 665
OuKHK laliind, 656
Ou^algan Islo. G74
OiiKamok Island, 671

( >ii)<atchik, Uiver, 686
Oii^nuKak, 607
OiimkUay, 659
Oiikrtinok Island, 665-6
) )iikinskoi. Cape, 724, 726

< iiikivok l8land,696
I >ii))antki Uav, 748
Uul.'ai Islands, 1002
Oiilcmoray Island, 1003
Oiiliacca Islo, 676
Ouliakhp«a, Capo, 715
Oiill.'iiy Islands, 1002
Oiihithy Islands, 971, 1004
Oiiin:iknaf,'h Island, 073
Ouiiii Akii sima, 1100
Oumimk Island, 674-5
Ouual^fii Strait, 677
OunaU-dikalsland, 593,672-4
Ounal^a I«land,G72, 674,08 1
Ounalik lalanu, 1)07

( tunatchoi(l,> Island, 667-8
Ou-oii-Kinsh lulot, 441-2
o-urii, 880

Ousouri Hay, 769, 772
Oun)^:t, Capo, 071

Isliind, 666-7

Ounimak, Capi'. 688

Ihland. 070-1

Strsil, 071, 677

Oiinobi) yama, 802
Outt?r (Jiipo. 746

Island. 541

I'oint, 1148

Keef, 810

1297

Outer Rock, 818
Out)'. 8piuuu Cape, 667
Oval Hill, 657
O Wahi, 1071
Owarii Creek, 003
Owari Bay, 807, 821-2

Gulf. 1186
Owaai Bay, 818
Owon I'oint and Island, 393
Owhyhee, 1071
Oyslir Hav. 294, 480

Hiirbour, 376. 377

Island, 763, 764

Ozemoi, Capo, 726
Ozumi no hana, 796, 797
Ozzard, Mount, 418

I'aanopa Island, 949
I'acayo Volcano, 77
I'acheca Id. & Channel, 7, 8
I'achona Buy, 406
I'u-chiing-Bua Islands, 1157

— 1100
Pacific City, 304
Pacitique Island, 1145
Paora Ismnd, 21, 22
I'addlo liock, 518
Paddy Passa^o, 564
Padilla Bay, 346
Padraa, 156

Pa^an Id., 1056, 1056, 1057
Paghelian, Capo, 713
Pago Harbour, 1047
Pa^foobiioy Strait, 619
Paicpouc Cove, 1047
I'ailola Channel, 1091
PuinipMo Island, 979
Painted liock, Wi'^
Pajaro, Bahia dol, 22, 23

, Uio dol, 233

Pajiros Island, 8, 23, 67,

121, 123, 126. 137, 139

IsleU, 10

Point, 23

, Farallon de, 1059-

1060
Pakuen Islands, 987
Pakonham, Point, 645
Pakin Islands, 987
Palii, Point, 126
Palaos Islands, 1008
Palau Islands. 1008—1015
Palunciut) Island, 27, 23
Paloy Island, 6
Pali, The, 1093, 1096
Pallad.i Koad, 767, 768
Pallas Bay, 762
Ite f, 1020

li.eks. 897-8

Palliou Island, 1002
Pallou or Pally Islands,

1008
Palm Point, 931
Palnui, 7
Paliuis Bay, 173
Palmer Point, 415

■ — lioef, 1109, 1115

Palniorston. Capo, 4'>2
Pdlaiia I'uint, 175, 176

8 C

12!>8

INDKX.

r«lmili<, Arroyo do \m,

ratn.ito, nitnrn.iit <l< 1. til
I'lilinvrn UIhiiJ. <.'.I0-31

I'nliix liiv<r. :114
ritiiii'lim* Kock, 63D-640
I'wjuli'v* Ivivt-r, .'><>
rnniiiiiii, 1 1 - ir>, 1 171
r.iiHfi.a lUv. fi 17. 1171.
1J17. I'.'.i*. rr>7.*r.

IftliJiI, 13-14

■ — , Ikthniimof, I

KMf. .146

Tan df Amicat K<Tk, .19
rAiidoni IV'Vi', '.'J I

— -. r,«k. in3

|!,v,.f. 3;iy

I'an*- Buy. ST 7
r«niaii IlarKxir. I'M
raioii|r>'iKuniiil. '■S7
r«p«jr«\<s liulf of, A, 41.

1174'
I'ltlMtnoii Point. 102
ri«|iiip)Mi Kork, I K'.S
rniMitburg Uiatid, 9<>l-2,

'.»U5
I'iiImHiII*. 17'.'. 11.31
rKmmukhir l»lnn>1. 737
Twdcrt., K.>r«. HKIS
pRrr^ l»l«nil», lia-*
l'«Tr«» V.la U. ins,

113tt-U40
I'andiis UUntU, 2H.i«
I'wU Bay, 770
I'anla Bav. 17
Park Hill'. S-'Xl
I'arkcr Mand, 3S3

• , IVint. 'U3

«__ H«.f. 3iH

■i Shoal. 7H»

Tarkin IaUn<la,&M
IVrtN Bay, 3»A

I. land. 9«S»

lalanda, li:S, 11.30

Vhimfn. SH.',

I'artida laland. I >1, ir,7

, Boca. 1031

I'artoribikov Utand, G'jr,
I'artridKP I'oint, 331, 343
i'arum IiiUnd, ^Hi
I'aiwjtTa, \f>7

l>a.t«v laland, 483
raM{>Iii'l. 60
Paa^l^ Canal, (45
'■ Com- Hill, f>4K.9

laUsd, 46d,4!)l,644,

S6i

I»let, 631

Htwf, 8! 4. hH4

Htick. 1". *W, 482

riUAoM, r2^'4 l.iri7

(jtri'-ral liemarka, 1234 .

Ort^l CtrtJs SatiiKji,

1234
C«|«' Horn to ('alifurr'ia

ar d Britith Colutntia,

l,i.,6— r.i42
lii'twit-n California nnd

AiuU-alU, &C., 1242-4

U'twprn CMlifomia and

China A Jupan, 1244-fi
Bi'twion Ctililoriiiii and

I'ltnamH. 1247-12.'>I
Bi-twi><<n S«n Frnn< mro

ao'l VanoguT(ir laUnd,

r.'.M-2
B<twi-«'n Han Fmnriaoo

and thi' ."^nn iwirh

Ulandi. Ull. 12'>2
IWtw.cn San FrHnoimti

and lahiti. 12.'.2-3
Botwxn California, 4c.,

and I'lrii, 12AI.4
Bt-tw" en San Kmnr iaoo

and Callao. 12.>3 4
(Vritral America, M< xictt,

Ikr . r2.'>»-7
I'lnama Bay, 1264-.S
Soiilh AiTivrira U> V<n-

tml Amrrira, 1 i^^i'i 7
Bitwi'on I'nnnma .k Aiia-

friiia, *r,, 12.17
Bctwivn Panama. Mr ,

and China aiul J«}>Hn,

1.!.'<7-S
Bi twi'<!n Panama and tho

Sandwich Iidandi, 12.')H
Ihtwii'n Panama and

Tahiti. »«>.. 12.SH
Bctwixm YalpHraiao or

Callaii and China, 4c.,

li.'oi Q

Itt'twt, 1 Valparaioo or

C-itlUo and tho Sand-
wich NUnda, 12iW-12(>0
Ilf>w<><-n China 4 Japan,

!.-■.' I- 4
Bc'witn Itonit K'inK and

\ k.'hama, l.'OO-i
B^-twi-tTn lloi.if Ki.n^ and

NaK'oaaki, I .')>2
Brtwx-ii llnt;jf Kong and

l.u-<hu, lJo2
.^hani;hna to Na^vaaki,

12ti2-3
Shantthae to Yokohama,

1263
B«'tw(vn Khan)fh*a and

Hak-jdiit*, 12'.3
V ok. Kama to Hakodatf>,

1 2'".4
IWtwrnn the lalands, 4c.,

1264-6
Btlwcin) Tahiti and thr

Sandwich I«land«,

1264 -A
Fill lalandi. AcroM the

Kquiitor, ii'Jn
Bttwc«n Sandwith Iila.

or iVhili Jt Aualraha,

1 260
Fiji Ulandt to the Sand-

wuli UUnJa, 1:m
Mati|ui'«<ui Iidandii t<< tho
Saiidwuh lalandai, l.i'i'i
Ja)Nin to Auatralia, l^oj
PaMwrtra Uland, luy

PaiNjor Point. 10?''
pNiwion Inlandor KfM-k.lOM
Paatolik ami B;«y, Mi
PaUy, Point, KM?
k^lrrion lalanda, 0434
P.it« y l{o<k, 374
Patience Bay and Cap«, 740,

7ft2
J'atino Point, 8
Put. VI. in.ss.o
Pilot IiLuid. 143, 3.^7. 3)t|
Pitrorinio laUnd, 1123
P:tt^>l'lll( Biy, 772
I'uil' tfuo Idlan.lii, lOOS
Polovtknia Bay, f).S&
P:4»on Bay, 34 '
Pnyo Ulnnd, 26
PiiMCA, Kio, r>4
Paiwa, lUo, 64, 74
Pvacock AnrhoritKo. 042,948

Chann.l, 416-17

P<-a|H>U Uli't«, 3.')3
Pwmo Point, 5.'.0. A4H

U(K-k, 811*

P.'/ird Bay, 7urt
IVarl HaftMiir, &.S4
lalanila, 7-10

I.^K-ha, 1096

Bocka. 616

and llfinn«<« Ilijof,

niB-lT

kiver Harhour, 1096

pMino I-Und. 6A2, 606

Iiilaiida. 604

Poaraon laltnil, 48(1
P<-<lan lalandN lU2i
P-ddcr Bav. 394

UUnda, 956

IVdemalt-a. I'oint, 227
Pxlro (i<inral<« laUiid. 9

— Naloa, Point, 227
Pmi] itland, 606, 1129, 1130,

1131-4
P<-<-l<'a Uland, 7A9
P"<<>*'nctiia UUnda, 987
P<'irc«», Cai*, 6hH
IMado lairt, 11
IVlrlrp lalanil, 97S
PvlaUw Iilant, 1014
IMkw or !Vllvw laUntU,

972, lOOH-1016
Prlican Bav. 276

laUnd, 141

Pcliirroeo, CWirnl, 141
!'<11 laland. 1114, IIIA
IVllow, Point, «46
IVlly Inland. 390

l<i»eT. COS

Vemi- lalet, 1016
Panaa, 111

Pendur Harlxior, 486
- Inlami, 397. 3«8

Ulanda, 4yH

IVi inaula Point. 248, 649
Pi-njtna, Hiver. 744
IVniinak tJolf, 744
PoiikfKnfi Bay, 713
Ponn CoTB, 343
lalauda, i\fi

[

r>7. ,1.5 «

|Q0H
H6

1116-17

lUjcf,

ir. 10»d
Mi

Allil.

■i.'7
.'1^,1130,

1,987

laUndt,

1
1I«

S
3r,g

H,649

PmiroII Island, 1140

IViint Point, tl
jl'iirdK,) ULin.!, 518, 519
l«<l"''nft Itiiv, 181 l(}7
I'wiy liny, 473

- . I'uitit, 699
I't lono lilot, ih
IVrciiDdiiiii:, Cnek, 008
l'«rico lihiiij, i:t^ 14
---- I'oint, 102, 172
I <ril StMit, tijfi, ti27.H
l''ni|Uf Ui)(l(, 1(J
I'lirlim Uiiuids, 7-10

1'' nil. ii.us Strait, 019
• ''■roai Inland, 940
iVrimndicular Uoad, 431
l'<r|),vu», Ciip«, 290
IVrry liny, 9, 10, 565

I«liind.834, 1128, 113G

Iw.ck, 367

PiTi-oiM Ikick, 797, 798
I'eru, 1253

Iiliind,936, 937, 940-1

Isliindu, 113H

IVnilii l!uy, 109.110
P'Tvi Uhuid, 737
r>*adiro« Point, 173
Pejoadore laLinda, 'JG2
pMtndoru* Ii»y, 179
l'i«tthanii Point, 761
Podtchanoi Point, 7G9
PiUluuia Creok, 24S
IMatUn, Murro de, 132
P. t.r the (Jreat Bay, 709 —

772, 773
Puiurel I'oint, 1082
PitilU. Point, 14
P.lrul Channul, 647

Inland, 1035

Sh().il, 517

IVln. s Strait, 666
Pctrolm, 21(7

1 oir)|Niul«ki and lIar1)our,
TJy, ::iO, 733-6, 1182

Pttrova 1-laiid, "74

Kock, 773

IN V. ril Kock, 620

Pliili.i.lphii IJiind, llOH,
nil. 1116

Phili(> iHliindH, 1004

. I'uint, 1 It;, 6i)2

PhiUimoro Point, 383

Phipp», (\\i<\ 030

Point, 044

Ph.idv I.land, 932, 9;t5

PisdtU, Punia, and Kivcr,
i:il-2

Puliilini;ue Ilarbuur, 83,

ii.;y-i7o
Put. C'hnnn.d, 741
IV ^!.lnd^ CI9
I'uxirt Kivor, 29

. iU.inc;i, Point, 111

.■ Hlancai* and Light -

hou«.', 22u-2:)0
Pi. r» Inliiii.i, ;(74
Pigili M«l,ys'9
l'ii;i;n l.->laiiJ, '.'67
Piijouu Maud, 112!^

INDEX.

Pigoon Piiint and Light-

houw. 235-6
I'ixot, I'oint, 646
I'lKomdiio Ulot, 900
I'ikii iHknd, 551
I'ikfdn lalnnJ, 1000
Piktdot Isliit, 999
Pi I in, Volcimo do las, 3, 61
Pili.ir U..ck, 70S
I'ililii Uland, 1011, 1014
l'ili|ml lahinil, 997
I'iU.ir II ly ant Kock, 585

Point, 328

and Kock,

2:iG
PillnrcitoB, Arroyo do los,

236
Pilloy Khoal, 448
Pilot Rock, 271

Knob Mountain, 283

i'l 'iitu :

Amur Gulf. 764

llakoiLito, 869

Japan, 779

NH^iuiaki, 005
Pilwo, Capu, 769
Pino, Capo, 058

Mund, 314, 611

Pineda, 40

Piiij^rlap Islands, 978

Piunaco Chiinnid. 439

liock, 414

Pinnudu Islimd, 704, 1145

Islet, 44S

1 slots, 1102,1103

Point, 412, 733,

700, 776

liock, 264, 320,

Rocks, 194"
Pinos, Point, and Light-

houHo, 231

Uivor, 29

I'iiitiida, Siorra, 190
i'i(.m!.r kockH, 912
I'ipcr Islanil, 027
I'iptBtom Inli;t, 417
I'iiino Bay, 702, 776
I'initkofl", Cape, 735
I'iiii! Point, 607
I'lriilH, 769
Piajiyiiina Kock, 815
I'ihcador Kiver, 236
I'is.i Inhind. y'.i4, 996
I'lsoiiirr l.tl:ind, 097
I'iti, Piinto, 1045
PilUkaj. 708
I'iit Archipelago, 645, 660,

667

Island. lOJ, 518, 61",

622, ".i:i7, 019

I'iv.iy Bay. ••' !
I'l/.aris Inland, 9'.)7
I'lustoon Bav, 770
Pi.itiinil, I'oint, ;il,32
I'laya Brara, 23
— —, Ccrro do la, 179

I'oli.rala, I'.oca, 134

-- - Ui:rnio!ia, 47

1143

1299

riaya Maria Bay, 196
PIuuMant iHland, 050

iHlanJs, 021, 1037

Plo»er Bay, 715-16

I»land,620, 701

I'oint, 422, 643

UeofH, 420

Plump«r Bay, 398, 496, 498

Covo, 483

Channel, 623. 520

Uurbuur, 428,

430, 432

Island, 449
Pass, 364
' Passage, 403
IWf, 368, 366
Sound, 366, 367-8

Plungor Puss, 481
Plymouth Island, 1128,

1136

Rocks, 833, 834,

840

Pimougoun, Cape, 709,

710
Podsopotchnoi, Capo, 679
l'..oti Nook, 407
Pogibatii Channel, 619, 620,

020, 627-8
Pogobi, Capo, 757,761
I'ugromniui and Volcano,

070, 071
Pointed llock, 1133
Pointer Islund, 623
Pointers Uocks, 624, 626,

600
Poison Covo, 532
Poilik Rock, 982
Polar Hol^ 700-2
Polo. Cape, 006
Polti-i Point, 174
PuUand Island, 1112

Rock, 1112

Poloiit Islands, 998
Pulovintchaty Rock, 722
Ponatidin Island, 846>7
Poniipi Island, 972, 979—

980
Pond Island, 148
Ponento Point, 53
PopoS Island and Strait,

007
Popov Island, 770
Porcada Island, 24
Porcher Island, 639, 648,

660, 66H
Porfia I'oint, 174
Poroninshir Island, 737
Poronai, 870

. liiv.T, 749

Pororoijii Island, 027
I'oro 'roinari, 769
Porpoi.si'. I.slands, 021

Kock, 108

Rocks, 014

Strait. 1148

Port K.H'f, 526
Porla>;i; Bay, 017
I'orti. r Pass, 305, 38.)-6
PwtliUid, :U9, 300-310

MOO

INPKX.

InUt, 6fil

ItliUi'i, 37*

roinl, 4ls>. .')(■> J

rortlock llnrUiur. f'J5(i
rortuniDiith llnwkt'ni, X!3
P.rtujox-*' P. int. .iOA
r.>Mi-tt<- lV(.y, :fi7-U
l'iM|<*loflf I'uint Ktiil l.ittHti,

771
ToweMiun. Point, 3»4, ('''>!
■ ' SounJ, Jj4.

.14 i- 3
r.«l»U, C«p«, 713. 7U
r..t Kock. 4.>1
I'otainikoff, C'4i)>o. 67H
IVtM-i Korki. loi
Tuunl.) lUv, 660, 6U
I'oiilmkot 1i>lAn>l. wn
I'oul(>u(« UUntl. 07'.t
IVuluiiKMik Itl.tml. \n>\f
I'liuynipeto UUdiL, \t''J
rovorulni, Vn^', ' :U, 73.'»
I'uTorutny Iilaiid, 6UH

I'oint, 773

I'owhutlan lUt-r, 1143
I'o*.., Kl, .'.H
IVcoat Iidiind. V9S
I'nitvnu UUti<>«. 1037
l'n-<-<ly IIiirVK>ur. 37'i. 37S-9
I'rvobravem* h«v. 717, 77.1
I'rMcutt IkUnd.A.'it}-?
I'nsivliu hhoal, 245
Trotott lI«rU ur, 'M)'i
l.Und, 3CH, 3»1,

671,572

I'mmOT, S74

l'c»k, 7;fU

Pric« UUnJ, 5:7, 640

Point, 7

I'ri>ln.iiix I'uint, 44'.*
I'n.>.t H .ck, 672
I'riivt'i lUpidi, 310
I'ruU I'uir.l, 155. U17, 16)i
I'nctot, Cema. 174
I'timeni At;ii« I'lint, ICO
I'rinr.- Miind, K4I

I'rinit; Kruvtl 8otind, Coo,

601
■ Frederick SounJ,

607-0

(r«>rt'f Idand. 1 l.i

of Wnlci AiibifH-

U»fo, 660, 5'JN, G03. 0u5-

606
-, Cap.,

6a7-8

UoKh,

487

Prince Willium Sound, 5yi,

'■.«J-s.ll7i>
PniicvM Ix>uiMk Inlet, 4^7
i'rincMM Louist- liut k. 4*1
Prinreat Kuvitl I*l.>nd«,

:.12, 532, 541, 56H
rrJncaM Hoval Konth, 487
I'mirMU Inland, 065
Pnncipc fh.mutl, 546

Prim Ilcinrtcb llarMar,

hilO
rriM)ni'r Martwtir. 7'ii
I'liK'hi' Itiitnd. 65(1
I'rokiiftrff InUnd, 748
I'roniiM' Ulan<l. 634

- I'omt. 52'J
rrontfo, I'ajH". 765
I'riMipTt I»ian<l, 930
l'ro»|H'r. Karallot) do, 33
PruMT Kork. 511
Protection UUn.l. 331, 414

, port, 60 I

I'ruTidenroC'ovi', 303

Nlmida. 06 J

lalel, loii

. Port, 715-16

Kerf, tl60,

1161

l*r'.)Tii|i'nri«, Canon df, 153
Pry)>ili>» Iilantlii. 704-707
Puf)il*o, Port, 23-5
Pucpoia P.int, l'<
PurnI I>Und, 21. 22
Pii.«r'i>oit<«, 143
I'liflin Uk-I, 3)4
I'lip't, Capts 6i6
PiiKct laland, 308

._-_S„und, 270. 311,

333. 33h-340
IMlv. P.jint, 337
Pulm... (W. 174
Pulpito Point, 158
I'liua, 107;}

Core. 1100

Pundi liowl llill, lOOA

I'unoo, 1075

Punta Artnaa, and IJ^ht,

3. 4, 32, 37. 3H.4()
PuDta Arvniiai, 32
PiinUnnaii, 3S
PunlaSai it.' l-Unl. >«
Pu'nina lltli, lo'j'J
Pur(fnt»jrio, Canon d"-, 15.)
i'unMiina, Iloca d<! la, iHi]
Kncr and Point,

J 2 7
w'ryU lU.iff, 5j.;
Pu>hiaahiiia Point, 7'>2
PuRt.trT-iik, 74 4
Putiatin I.^I mil, 772
Puxzlc Uland. 414, 117
Py)pii», point, (jis
PyKhoUa Ul.t. WJ
I'ykp, I'oint. 646
Pyladon Ch.nn.l. 387-8
IMfftaart Uland, 1123
Pym Ulai.d, 37 i
Pvramid lilc'. and Ilnrbour.

■(JI6
pyramid liotk, 156, 753,

1135

l2l«wdi<ot AnchoriH*. 5 <8
W»>dra. it<i<'n de, 505

— laltn.l, 340

t2>inl>a-({iit('. ')2'i
Wuftl-a-waloo Ilj^i ibS

Quallcutn Iliror and lUr,

475
t4uart<'riiuut«r HaTltoitr,

3.18
Uiitn-rillah Inlrt. 517
<4uAlhiaakv Cot.', 4'.'5
IJiialaino Narrow*, 45o. |51
__ Mound, 404, 4»5-

452
UiiMU Charlutto Cliannrl,

481. J

I»liuida,

Sound,

277, 5«8~689

322. 506 513
- Sound. 526
t^ini'n'ii CoTp, 436

K<'a.-h, 464, 487
i^irl-Hk-M'.t-hx. 634
WueLima KiTor. 60
Wo.'iiuato, 1 1 1
^^l.•ni•utl liirrr, 31H.19
(2ui>(HM Point aiid Uli.'t'., 36
IjiKijuoti, .■•-16
Wui-o-llt nan«fo, 80
Uuibito Island, 20
(Juilm Ulond. 19
I2uii kaand Hay, 295
(iuicknU-pShoai, lOUH
WuiU, 132

'.2iiil-li'y-ut«> Hirer, 320
i|uini|>«tr Pcninnuta. 331
Uuinamaaa ilnv, 5'i2
WuiaiK'iina Volcano. 50
I2>iit«hak. Hirer. (i>*H
Quoin Hill. 51'.), 7,')]

Point and LiKlithouae,
763
Uuoy I.Lind, 1033

lUbMt Idand. 1035
lUrt^xm Stmiti. 247
Uii.>; Itlandx. l.iKhtbotiv.<,

and i'aaaago, J2'2, :i.'.<,

30.'.-.i
K.II.. X.irrow», 4'22

. Pa»ai«(;fv. 400, 604

I'oint, 3.15
lUci'borio .Shortl. 7H5
Ila> h< 1 laUnd*. 5.'iO, 5.iS
lU>i>(k I>UnJ>. 051
IUii..k<tU Inlandn. V«;2
lUfn. 1 Point, 4,13
iUft r,,\u, 452
U.K''- H'x'. 52H
liaKK't"! I«land. 37M, 413
— Iilandi, 4H.<J

- point. 4J2
lUi Ulanda, O'il
lUia Point, is
lUikoke l!ilaiid.73!i
tUin Puint, 52'j
lUuiier, ;}oO

, Mount, 344
lUiny Kay, 413
lUiUn Cliff, h70
Itititauka Utvi-r, 759
Kakovya liailiour aad

lUnk, 731, 7.1.1

lUlriKk tWk. Iini

lUhk idnuaa, U.>t>, 051,

lUmtay UUnd, 675
lUm*ii'n ruini, A'li, &0A
limiaaA I'uint, 167

IkAflAI l«l«tul, IDIH)

Kaiiohuria UUuJ, 20
lij%iiKiir Ult'l, •)(ii
lUnkin Hmnl, UAl
liitnkin* UlniiilK, ''ili
ktour UUnU, (i»)^

\i»l^t lUv, :ii

IliMn Mitiil. 1141

• I tin, t.OO

lijulKjinik iUy, 773
ICmhrtu Ulaii'l, ;.iH.tf
l<JM( Im rry laltiiili, 540
Ka( l*l»nJ, Mi

lil»nd*.fl''.'J.6Hl.,'}

lUUk ItliuiO^ V6U, 1)51,

«52-»(;i
lUtmanoff Day, 714
, Up«. 751

laUnd, (i'J8

, Tort, 7U

Kattlor Hock, H53
lUtilinnako I*l>i»i. i\3
lUiikoko UUnd, 7 II
lUvn lnlaiiJii, UH7 *
IUm IiUii'I, 4t'<), 1141

_ UUtid and Uuck,

151
IUm. i'onU, Hi
lUiiif I'uiiit, Mfi7
|{.'ii.l Inl.ind, 4L<l-3
UuiU lie S.1I1 Antonio, ISO

d-> l/.rt)U>, ItiO

, l-jl«r.., 50. 68, «'i

, Iti.), Ul

K-i»;>'j". •'"'*• 3' *■''■ ■'". •'•i-

57. 124U, U61, i:.>7
Ki'itiimiir I'l'itk, lOltf
lC«'t»ec(» Smt, 4Vl
K'biinUinKui IiUnd, 'VJ
HacoyUon Uay, n:}4
|{<HhuM«9n, Hwor, lOii

K.1 ..a.> r.nnt, yts

K.Mr.iit liUnt. llt^:)
lC.Hi llhiff. HT. :6», 270

flilh, H'lt)

Con.', I'JtJ

MiMid, ;tH2

Toii.t, l')0, lOfi, 547

Kijck, rJ3, 24«

s«M^ i2y

lUiiff r.'int, 14i

- Cliff I'omi, 5:i,, ■.■.!,

I»lut Point, 3S1

— — Htrip«> Mount lin,
_ — 'l\'\) StounUiin, iT't
Kadcliffo UUnd, 70'J
fUMxng K.»k. 272
Ki-if'rn Ulitii'l. 511
K.-lticU Itoika, S4;).4
IC-lon.U Ul»nJ, 411, l-^'.'
Hmlando, ChIh', I**'. ■''-
. Kock, 17

II J

INDKX.

R<<«4 liUnd. SM2

ICK-ki, a5u.2«0, 1109

U.-»f UUnd, ;t62. 6«»i, 677
UUnd*. 1150, 1152

UU-t, 407

- Toint, lUO, 446, 450.

4yo, 7i)ti

lt.fun« U»y, 660, 667,

6.W
.Co»», 403, 424

UfflUfio, I'lKTtO. 14H

Ui'fiiiiuri UUnd, 755
UxiOitU Itix'rM, 52H
■("liiiM C'hinn.'l, IHl
Ki'id II*r)><>ur, 3<;<J

Kook. 356
Hrindi'cr Iiilind, Ofl?
Utiiut'ku UUnd, 770
l{om*rkit)>la Cone, 522
it«n)odiu«, Um, 25

, r»int, 70, 73

I'uint and lUy,

149
Heniolina, Punt*, 58
|{i'ni|>at<>nn IltKki, 520
H.inni'll .Sound, 5Sil
Htiaolution Covo, 4:il

Shoftl, i'.54

KcumTi'Ction lUy. tilU
Iti<iiturHti<in Covti, 521
Point, 336-7

lU'tnlhulou, 80
Ht'tcht'clmoi, 675
Iv.'tchiiui iilot, 769
l:.tri-at, Point, til2, 614
K«trit'iiti.-n Kockii, !)I2
l^'Vl■nly Johiuon Moun-

tuini, 667
KevitU Oif^iido Chaiinol,

6U5.8
UevilU-OiKcdo Uland«,1030

• lOiiJ

Ui'\\ iiiUi del, 7, y

K>-yv* Ulindt, 970

— , I'oint, and l.igh:-

houiio, 25i), 250
Hhin. Port. y5,).4
ICioiido (»r..H47

- do PUU l»Und, U2J
iii<'K»>n UUnd, 157
Kich UUnd. lOty
lilt hard Point, 561

Kock, 417

Uul.'ird* I.sUnd, SSO
Kichird»..n Inlil, 576, 577

.— — I'oint, .■'■U

Kock. 220

Kirhmond Kock", 110
Ifiokord Uland, 770
liU'n.', I'ij'O, 1018
liiko HHUiiu Uniila Hivcr,

1)40
K.kord. Cape, 7^41
liimnik. C«p<', 751
Uinnki-Korwikotr UUnds,

yo2
Kincon, liio, .12
Hiou. Point. 638, 630
liipplf lUiik, 551

1301

RippU Point, 498

U.ick, 49.'), 495

Kh.Hil, 4yy, 601

Uiwri UUnd, 755-0
Uitchio IUy, 421-2
Kitidian. Point. 1017
Kivadtinnyn IShual, 923~

924
Uiraa Point, 109
KiTHF HiKht, 644
Kivort InUt, 617-513
KohUm UUmi, 752
KoMwr* UUtid, 408, 413
llohlwrs' N.d), 500
Holx.rton UUnd. 1158, 1100
UobertM Kiink, 458. 450

Point, 335, 347

Point and Town,

457. 458-9

Kobim-tt Kock, 888, 914
Uobiniion UUnd, 603

. Mount, 614

liol.U, Punt*. 23
Hohton Uland, 448
Itorhe Harbour, 366. 371
i(ooh« Poncii- ItUiidii, 012-

913
llock UUnd and Light-

houae, 826, 828, 833

Ul.t. 346

Point. 148

llock-floh HBrbniir. 577
Itocky lUy, 357, 601

— — F.minHnce, 7y4

Viifut, 421

l',,i„t, I'.m, 272, 472

l'„i[it imd liliitr, 114

Uodorick Ul.ind. 5.il
UodKum, Ca|>e, 868

IIiirlMiur. 701-2

Kodney. Point. (>'■'■'>
Koi^'T .Simpson Ulitnd, 945
Koifuu UiviT mid limit, 281
ICoif. Mount, ysi
Koivon. Cii|x\ ^i76
Uojiioff, Capo. 686
Kojo. Mar, 120
Uokko Kiiki and I.ighthouso,

.•<71, 875, S7»;.7
Kokuron Inland and Liglit-

houiie, 7'*0-l
Uollin. Capo, 739
UoUin^ U(iadHti>ad. 435, 436
UomaiiotT, Cap", 602
luinianotako Volcano, 864
Komanzoff, Cape, 600, 756,

871

Mands, 958

Koinanzov IUy. 756
Itoinbrt'K. Capr, 751
Ko- ') Uliin h, yiV2
P -l-.,>poUp UUnd, 062
Koii^-.ui; UUn.U. !I62
Uono Kiti Harbour, 983-4
Koot Point, 50 i
U.Hliiota Island. 98-9
lioM Utanil, 1 141

, I'lint-i, 136

Uufuliu Point, lt'6

isoa

INDEX.

iiomiin lUj, 23, 23, 90-3,
Hi, \vn

I»l»nd. 319. Wi'J

KHxkU 120

K»r«it, M3, 8«6-0,

MI-6, 467

RiiMa, I'tiiiU. 93
KoM> IlarU>ur, 673

ri>int anil Hpit. ^83

IIommUv Uock, 39i
huohnc ff, C«|«, MA
hoM lUv. 401

, F'lrt, ■ifl2-3

UUn<i*. »«6

MoutiUin, M3

lloUltUnd. 1039. 104 I -9
Kutrhor I«l«n<l, 941
liothMV. ruin*, 601
I(o..^-h':«y. 606
KoDOiuuitNoff, (>ip«, 690
]U>UDd Hill, 1OH0

Mun-J. 314, 387,410,

4.W, 6<W. r,(iS, 739

IVint, 6«7

|{o k. 27a. 789

■ Lumr" I.ofk. 0.^7

ltpMoui.tan, 149,

160

K. van IiIiidJ. 1141
K- w. KiMT, 399
li- >•»! Hiv <.r Ko«ds 390
li« yaliit tal<ii<]. UIO

Mf.U. 994

Hu» IkI' nd, 990

Uubia Bav, 637
Hutiiron fviiit, S3*
Kuddci lifif, 474
Hu.iliri lUv, 403
lioiTKt^l I at ta. 430

I'.*-. 147

I'uint, 438

I uk laliinl, 9VI. 996
Uulc, (.ai*-, 1031
Uujcrt Arm, 44«, 450

— . K. rt. 606

.Kiih kSrait, 671, 9&9
1 iir ti pi. ("71
ltu«M-ll, C«i4-, 463

UUuid. .174. 379

liiu»i:tn iV'int, 06o, C61

— JU*f. 613

kivor. 24«, 3<*2

iJyan iVii.t, 663
Hyghynin, C"i<, 713

Kitanidi Iul< t, oil 376
hHliat-u Rima, Hlil
Balm »iDta, 7'.*C
HaMx-n rMMa(r<*, 1017
Sabtnc Oianiiel, 473, 4S4-5

I iAM, 1146

Halilu Iula:;!, v%i

H«)« lUvrr. l'>43

balx'tre lalaud aiidCbaxilicl

7.8
Hal'uaawa, 860
Sacali Itltia, 35
, IViul, 43

RarAtii-irrantta lalanil, 38
SaratnU IU«, 103
Sa.-hini> .'^trait. 60A
Siuk«'n. Mount. 778
^^a^raalul>tu and Kiror, 106,
349

R«.f. 197

HarrifWi • I.Und k lUy, 96
8addU< liill. 317

laUml. U64

Mountain, 867
»N.d.> M«niL871.N73-3. 874
Stft' Katraiin>, 619
S»Mt (■.>*i-, 419— 4i»

aim*. 894

Haffami, Cap<^ 829

BiMki and Ijg^t-

houai-. H.13, M39

rt'lu.^auU, 830

nra, H3V

»»»r«n"»«>^<. 787. 788
SaK>>*l>n. Ouir uf. 764
laUnd. 712, 748—

74C. 768— 761

ria. lUror, 764

Hatpnaw lUy. 607

v'hannel. 612

. r. mt. 613

S iritau-no ura, 9o7. 908
Kiid iidji »mwa. Hn4
S..i«M IIiirlK)ur, H79
Sill iUi<k. 149, 192. 236.
416. hH9

K.K-ka. 1131

Sailur I'oinl. 3n
S«iinatuiv, ( apf. 7 '>2
.Sn.iiii Iklaml. ^7, 2^
S*ma"n laUnd. 1020

SL A)>rahain UUnd, 70'i

— All.»n». Toint, 804

— An.trrw laan.la. 1037

— Aiilhcny I'rak, 741

— Cathenno I'miit. 764

— ."ti/ij. (»ulf i.(. 71H

~ I>aTid Nlanda, 1034-6
- El<-na I'n. 43

— tUiaa, Mount, 6t>0, 638,
639

— Klnio, lUr of. 9

— KuctKj.hia liny. 77i

— (iw rgv I'tv. J74
laUad, 113, 114,

706.6

Puint, and Ilcvf,

■lU

K/<k. 667

— n.lrn. 310
HtUj'a. Mount, 303. 312

— IIt'rti.>>|f< it(<a, < '.t|M', CiCO
- J»tiii». ( ai-ri. 671. 6.H»

— John llurU ur. /»'.'M
IV.int. 479. 4tt|

— Jonn Uland. 747

— I.iwroiicc iJay, 70f •■
710. 714

laland, 702 3,

li-tO
-' Liuiu* laUud, 030

SL TjiMro Poafc. t?8
Marrtan loUml, 683

— Mar)-, <'"P», 3VJ

— . I'ofnl. 6IS

— Mttthaw IaUn<l, 703-4

— Mxhaal Ii!and. 69i
, IUd»ul.t. 693 3,

llHl

— Nicholaa !'«%•, 74H
r..iiit, 761

— I'aul k Uarb^ur, 666-9,
UHO

— Ialand,7"W-7. 1181

— Frtor Inland, H46

— HU'pbxn Island, 666,682,
7oi

— ThAddoitt, ('4kpa, 719—

720

— 'lliaodoro Iilond, 703

— Valantino liny. 774

— Vin«rnt i'hajuifl. 800

— VUditiiir Hay. 776-6

— Xavicr Island, 11 46
Kaipian Island, 1063-4
Saito iiorf. 814
Shi'tiiliurktiui^h Island, 666
eSakai KiriranJ I.iuht,8u7

yaina haaa, 894

Sakaido. 800
SakaU. 873

Kftkata lUy. 801

aiir.a. 820

Sakihana aaki, 1160
Sakiura, N77
.Sakoahi Hay, 803
Sakura Island. 784, 785
Sal. IV.iut. 327
SaUI Point, 630
Kalat<'« Mirsh, 175
.Sjilfni. 3ti>.»
Sahaira Mane' 134
halir.a Crus lli.yaad Point,

Hfi, SH
Sfllina di I Man)ur«, 88
Salinas Pay. *i, 43-4. 16]

— - <'i- K •••rio, Mvrro
d)' lis, 90

UUnd. 44

Pnlllt. I<>6

— Vai;«y and Rivtr,

2..<t, l.is, 334
."altsburv, Point, 611
Salmon liatik, 366

Hav, 499. 764

Core, 6<)4

Cr.tk, 262

Kivar, 3)1, 667

Hijfht, 653

^a^lll^•a, Kiur, Imi

Sal si-pU'-di-a, CVrm do, 33

Clmnucl and

Isla d. 161

P..int, 34, 20i

S*U.p lli»er. 517
Slit Point, 263
Snli.hidak UUnil. 669
Kiil!»| nnjf, 379

hnv. 680

^vtlt-I* U Uay, loj

JOii
Wlii

|«»a 3,
m

|66«.i>,
7. 1181

J 70 J
|7«

BOO

"''in*!!* r.ivfT, M
^WlIl>^r»•l^ uiiin I. i\n

• lol'H. 'JJl

Hum.' MO mi, s;)S

«.u>< '-.ncxHU lUy, 072, 074

Hmimiiiii, 34(1

Miiiii ijmn, II2

B«m')« J{,. f, |i»o.i

ti<unii«l Uliin I, ,')DH

I'oint, t;i,l

• Al.'Dii.ihli. M , li:!7

— AmlriM, 11.11 MihU, 121

, I', lilt, in

— — Aiiioiiiii, li.'j

■ Cr<'<'lc. 247

-, roii.t,Ul,137

• Ant ni", Uio, 21.1

— AiiK'ii'l"!. < »|>i', r.'t

— AuguaUno Itkud, I/M'J,
1137

- — lUUrilo, nin. 227
-— llnriiil.nii, t'ljiu, 6011

l!.irt<;liimt" 1U-, r.ll

UUiid, '.I'.i'J

-^ H»rt«iloin«) JJ., 1U35,

1030
- — Kuilio D«y and Point,

1,W

non»dictoI»UnJ, lO.'U

Ufnito, MO

liJandf, 1U4

—— Urrnitrilo IhUikI, 226

— IWrto lilnnci, lo:U

. — iiUi, «;t. Mr), 116— lac

II 74. 1239, 12J0
—— Bruno froik, Ifil)
Ihland, liii)

— llufnavunturn, 2U6
Uilo», luo

U>y, IS/). IC4
-, (iulf ..f, 67
Id iiid, )'>U0
I'uii.t 4c bay,

, Puerto dp, 141
, Kio, 3S
do lit Uuiun,

. d« Montervy,

205

("hriitoTftl River. 1 15

L'lomunt Island, 22U- 1

_ Couna i'uint & Kock,

103

— Ci iitobal Day. 190
, I'oiht, 179

— CriatoTtl MouutMua,
473

. I'amion Rock, 163

Diftf > I'ay ami l.nrtit,

20A, 2U8-10, 238, 117.'),

1177
_— , Iiland, li'iS

Diuiiisio Iiland, 1137

Puniiiigo, liocade, 186

IViiit, 167,

IS7
Ettevta Idand, 143

1&2

153

5«,

INDKX.

San Fiini'nio T'cint, 101-2
- K»ari»U) ruint, 104

r'<ili|M<. 12

_ — Toiiit, 147

FiTinin I'oint, 147

t'ranciaro lliir, 87

bay, 163,

11/!)
, Knionada

de, 13U, 140
IlarUmr and

Liu'hti, 2;)H-244, in.'i,

1176, 12;t7, 1240, 1243,

124ft, 124H, *.•.
island, 106,

810

238

Hountiiinf,

d« Unrja, Its

— Fr«nri»--'iito I'oint A
Day. l.')!. k.>2

— (labrit'l I'oint, 1?2
Kir.r, 211

— 4i(>r«ldo, Kio, 227

— Unruiiimo, 7'J
Idaml, 197

(Jregorio Ki»nr. 230

Hiliirio lalim.l, l!)!)

Hipolitu I'oiut and

Iluy, IHU

Ignacio, \f)^

Iluy and

I'oint, 136

136

Isliind, 134,

Ij^^ci' 1 and

Mountain, lH7-s

I'.iiiit, 1.S7

Kiv.r, I »3

do Aguna,

1040

Inez, Sierra, 217

Jat-inU}, Mount, 628

Joat, 3, 38

Itiiiik, 7

, Caj*. 33, 3P

, Fort, 1043

Inland, 7, 10

Iplaiidn, 27

Idi t, 407

, Point, 201. 244

, Kio, 105. 175

de Ctuatemala,

74, 75, 77-9, 1267
del Cabo Bay,

176-6

do loa Uros, 130

Josef Hay, 452

IitlAud4Cbaunol,

165-e
Juan Island, 361, 365,

370

Mountain, 115

I'ort, 324, 325,

393

141

-, Rio, 19. 38, 45,49

- Ilock, 18

- Uautinta Flats,

130.T

•San Jimn Ilnntitla Point

and hay, K)2

— ~ ('•Hi'iatrano, 211

dol Bur, Port,

46-7
Nopomucino IJ.,

109

Juanico Covfi, 168

Point and

liiiKoon, 18r

Juanito IsliinJ, 113

liozuro Archipulai.^,

660
, Cajw. IHI

Iri^andro Iliiv. 247

Lino Hay, 168

I/)rfn8i<) Nliind, 162

— Point. Oiunnel,

and lU'of, 170-71
, Port, 28, 58,

277, 427

RiTor. 1.12, 235

Ko(k<, 08

LucHH, Cupo. mid l!ay,

177-M, 1174, 126.1

Lucaa (Jovo, 164

Id md, 39, 226

Luis, 80

Idund, 147

, Point, 227, 22S

d'Apra, Poit

1014.6
Uonzitlos Hay,

148

Obispo, 227-9

Uoy, 210, 211

Marcial Point and

Rock, 103-4
Marcos Inland, 154,

109

Marte Day, 104

Martin, 49

, Cajie, 230

IdauU, 199-200

Matoo, 87

Hay, 409

MiK.ml. 2, 68, 66

Miguel, Hay of, fl

, Capo. 152.202

laland, 226-7

-, Port, 208

lUvtir, 03

Yslcano, 3,

66, 08

— Nicolas Hay, 168
Island, '222-3

— Pablo Hay and I'oiut,
190

Point, Bay, and

Strait, 248

— Pa»quol Point, 163
i'edro Hay and Light*

house, 212-14
Hay and Point,

179-180

, Boca, 29

HiU, 212

Island, 29, 109,

1034

aJovo*' -»-

1.104

S»n r.«dn» Toint, 141, 157.

, Fori .in, 3ft

JUrtirliiifi, Hi-
US

Nol«»co Ifcland,

14I

Toint,

227

JV^lio'i Wife Kork,

313

Qiwwtin n*T anil

Upc, lilH

, Port, 19S-y

lUfacl, 2iH

lUv. 161

Mind. 9P1

K«imn lUy. '.'o(i

liiK^ii*. Inln'nd, H'O

IViut 4 Hsj-,

ISK)

, Rio de, 2S0

Swlvmlor. t.V.a«t of,

1, 2, 3, 5. (U-.'., 69-7i>
de Jiquiliicc),

B«y of. M
Volc*no, 4S,

Selnuttian, C<ijx-, .'""l

Kiv.r. jsi

_ , hicrni d<<,

132
— Vi»c»sncill(iy,

194-6

Simwn lUr, iJ'.^i.'JO

T.-lmo r.itit. I'.i

'loin*!* Ii>Ulid. h4f>

VkocU-. fi.5. «»>. ■.'rtl

— Ubuid, 137

Hmuu741

iSnnnin nimii, *>f*0

S«nt«on-Uki? luxk«. «43-4

."^)inopJit.o, snd I'otril, .Mh

tkixl ItlnnA. 304. av6. 11^2

— - l^Iand»,C>i3

S«ni»n, "IH

H«nJfiy liny. hM

Stti.>'i<'!i l.'^fl k», 1 !*7

8«niitpit I'lMLt. 6j;>, 5«l

^*•nd•ton«• li»'l', 630

S.r..l*nth ItUni*. KKJ.V-
litMi. 116'^. n •<'. II''-*,
12H», liA-i, IJ."-, I Jot,
*c.

8«n v I»Ul<1, 477, ilJ!»,

ii«i-2

I'oint, J71

K»tii«muva I'viiit, ^53
Knokran iinxL, Sill
h,i,k:.ir f-tml, h54
Nit,K-trr ii>li>Bd. 4.H0, 484
hHi.tti.n'oini*, Sol
Hii!iiidi;ij I»lanJ, 'ifih
Santi .k Ial«ii't. «<>I4
hwimui l»lj<iid. ■'>*8
Smi f..' rit) U^Hiidft, 1027
.'^•i.^siiii K<miwii, 37 i-fl
hniit 1 .Vjniwli* r<>i(it, I )|
.\l»». 1.', 21:

INDKX.

SanU An* Itay and Point,

1 .»
Uiver A I.«g"Mn,

311

Antw.iU I'.iinf, 1 '.s

lUjiwn* flinJ l.igiit-

houau, 219-17

juv. nfi

(^KAnnt-l iin 1

I.Und», 207. 21.V -'27

Islan.l. 222

I'nUliiift Uland, li'-i,

331-2

— Mountxin, It"

CUra I»lr«n.!, 114 1

Knvr, IM, 21)

V..lc«no, 61

Cnisu 13f>

IV.y, 9S, 94. It'.S

, liitotoiiiLi, 121

-- ■ — Harbour rtnii

Light, 234-6
Island. Itt6, 221,

1046
laiandand Point,

2»

MounUins, "2:17

, Pt.uit, 172

Point and Light,

232. 2.14
Kli-na, rv»p<^, 4.1

- — lno» I'liint, I«L\ndi,
and liav, 161-6

', hi... 227

Lucia Hay, 99

__ , Siiiradi', 2.iO

Ma^tdalt^na PUiii», l.'io

MnriOiritA, ('ape. 277

iiland and

Muuiit, l^O-M

Maria 11. y. IsS

Cove aiid Moun-

Uin, 163
— liiver, 7
(1« Ahomc, Ui".

136

,lrl Mar, N7

Mantia Point, 181

Motiuia. 214

- JU*a, ISO
lUnk, lOrtl

- - I.Urd, 22.^, 1032

Sh.«l, 104.'. :i

HuMiiiA li«y, ly«^

, <'«n'.ii dp, lis

Ki»,r, 16.i

— - TmkM, Uarra de, >'■
I Vint, !.'.2,

16H
S«nr Anjr»'l, Fi>ri, 1043
.^aiitu^cu liav. 106

Kiv.r. 23, 7' 120

4fl Yiila|>a, Siorr.)

d«, Htf
S.tnlo l)oniiiiK.i, 33

- — , MuiHf, n*..)

'l.'iiiaa ami l'.>it.l,

17H. 2<tl

T.'Duu IrUU'l, 111 iO

Sapjwro. Srt4. 870
.'^.ijir.in IiiNniL 1115
.Vnrsrxn Hcwfa, HH'K 8?»8
S«rah I«l.ind. A31. -YM

I'oint. iH>i, 4S'.», 564

Anil » IdUnd. l#ift

Snmki. (■.»[«•. H.')H
S-M^nn-s*.* Cove, r,79
Sttr.it. .>f!i Spjl, 832, 834, !>li5,

H40, .sil
SflrrnjihaKUd I.<Und. 719
Snr.linofi, Hu\ ..f, 22'J
.Suf.R H-Ad. ";i4'>
.•^.ir,;. n'. P..int. 143
.'^.u f^i'ntd I'dinl, 147
SariKuar. Inl'tnd, lOoS
.'Mrpan 1 aland, lU47

.''ir\iko mm., .803
.'^iirn <ima. '<.'i4-6
Sir>.n.'lT .strut. 7i>»
Si»rvt»rh<rt. ('a)"!, "JO

.: I'^k, 738

SfuMuio aitki. HI!)
Hdiw jima, 799
SntAnna, Capp, 881
Si»t«no mivtki, and Lif;ht-

houM*. 78 4
Satawal Inl.tn.l, 1000
S»t.'h..t H.«ad. 334
S«t<Uit«("hann»'l. 374

l>nM, 4(is, 412

Hwf. 471

Sat.aiki, .^13

.Sito ura, i<l I

.Sjitiirna I»l»nd, 3d4, Sfi7,

4. VI
Sftur.lilo .»nd Ps;int. 24H
S«un.l<>r» I -I md. 1123
.S.OA4inah Kiv.r. 6, 7
Salary IiiUn.), 4S8
S«w liwpf. i74
.Snwski. v.H
Sawara., H'"4
Nawa-uii.i Jii^y. 873
SowoMiki. S't2, .syj
Saujir lUtnk. .'»3
S»-yami M..nnlain«. 87,\
K.vi««n LiUtid, 1oj7, I0i8,

iii:t9
Scnnsin.ii'i l.n>{o..n, 1 •*
Scait'.rviK'i ILIi, Ui.'., ■!12

I.Uii.l, y48

— laUiids, 938,

1127
S«hi« htnarftff InlM. '"•'>

Poll. J, 7 i

Ntmit, a6i»

.*vh'itinaii Ui-.f. li>34
.S,h«.tirr (Vivf, 41l»
Viuuig^: ill, 527,

64U

P.iint, .^41

Krtft-at, .^19

S«himt«n Uluida, 1020,

1022. 1024
.*Vhuln> Cu\r>, 827
.Schumaitiii Ulan.lii. ''.>'iA-7
."Vutth Iir IVitit, 4><', 4S7

W^.

Scott, Capo, Channel, and

Itlanda, 46a, Sli-ciS

Island, '-iri

Ki'otl»i)ui;5, 2HS
Scout Hhoal, 170
t*< rou(t» llH'kti, 397
Scnldtir I'oiiit, 5*4, 57i5
ScjlU Ilocks, lo;i'>
Soa F.K'K Uocki!, 4H4

Li(in« I.Hliinit, fiS',)

(nter ItHuk, 64,!

Dttor Cove, 462

(hUt liUnil, lOfi

(Itt«r lilfta 4 Kookfi,

6l4-.')l.')

(ittor Itock, 420, 425

()tt«r fSoiinil, 605

^•Hliird Inlet, 406
S.«liock and Island. 342
tH'sforth Chttimol, 622, 524,

A.'H
S.'»honw hUndn, 700
Sotl l{o<k, 142, 172, 275,

»27, 4H4
U(H-k», 189, 242, 290,

480. SU.S.')?. 567,643,649
RchIihI I'twiHjfe, 611
Svattln, ;iJ6
S(hH»tii«n IjoboH or Ij<)prz

Inland, 1125. 1127

ViscAino llay, 194

S«h«re»k(iv Inliind, 76y
K<'<-«ii IiUrid*, 26
S«vtii)n Cow, 575
fVcrt!t«n- Mand, 3S5, 30 J
S«HMire Anchorat^o, 51 'J
Svurily \U\, 607
Sfiiiiumd hiviT, 573
S<-<liiciion l*i)int. 615-16
S.<.>. h.It Arm, 4S4. 487
S»>m)UHtn UUikI, 677
S'liOtiif, U7
S'ki nm no. Mtki. S6'j
S«kou I'oint, 327
S-lfno, 7:(7
S.li«po UlHtid. 1003
S.-lwyn Inlet, 577
Somtnoff, ('«p<', 720
H<'iui*hmo-T lUy, ■'147-8
H«!imii)p<H"huoi Island, 6H1
.S.,mit(i4h Uland, liOy, 6S3
Hrnt^un I'l'tiiusnU, U04
Seiidtti, "!<!

H^y, 850-51

Si-ndai kawii. »(iK.y
tv-nda mki, S33
(k-niarinp, C»p«', 6S6, 752

Inland", y7y-'JS7

, Straitof,7 1 1-14

Bennrt lalHnd,
^ii< riU Ulnnd, 1)
8«'ntiiiel Miiiid. 36'.», 542

Iiil-t, i4S

8.iitinfU lnlmi.l. 21, 22___
S«>p»r»tioii I'Dint, ;i60. 375
HtHiuairhin Uivt-r, 2«4
8e«tiif'.»d d" rotacalt'ijx

Uf. f, 57

8t.,JUtMr>» Mwi. 070

Xurlh Paci/ie.

INDEX.

8i)rdzu Kamen, Capo, 662,

708
Mountnin,

71H
H.r({hoieff Inthroug, 679
Scriouno Hhoiil, 09
SoriiiboH Hook, 1143
yorpoHt Islunds), 964
Point, 623

Kock, 789

Si-rtiin.-vi, 759
.Scsifi Point, 42

iScaimrt and Chttnnol, 415,

•117
Sol.;i laUnd, 1153
Soto-dit jiina, 799
S.t/i Uchi. Th.', 779, 788 -

815, 11H6
Sfftiiiibal iHlund, 1000
Srvon iHlands, 9,S7

liock.i, 785

Scvornaia (Julia, 7^0
.S.'v.'rny Islands, 701
Hovillia, Ir-lii, 29
Sowiird Roads, 1118, 1119
Soxtatit I'oint, 199
Stvmour liav. 1 158

— Canal, 610

Ill 1ft, 512

, Mount, 680

Narrows, 494,496

Si'yj)ati Island. 1052

Shad well Pasflap^o, 607,

50H-9
tih..Hr Uock, 10, 246, 410,

1 1 5.;

Shah liHV. 1154
ShakoH. Point. 734
Slmkot-in, Mount, 870
Shttku-xhi Hoik, 8H, S92
Sh.iliirB 1-1 mil, lliJH
Simnuhao, 1262, in.
.Shannhoi Inlands, 572, 588
Shanlnr IslundH, 742, 74;-.S
shantaraki Lslaiiiis, 747
Shantz Point, 776
Siian/ I>land», 96)
Sharo Hay, 867, «68
Shark Paiw, 412

Kcef", 359

-■ K««h, 420, 425
Sharon, 727

Sharp Po.ik, 148, 162, 202,
55:1

— Point, 419, 424,470,

47.t
Sha»U, Mount, 249, 275-6
Shi'.tiH'k Point, 55,1
Sluiulak Island, 9S:i
Shikw Uland, 3.)5. ;61, 052
Sho>>i) Pawta^n, ,' jI
shell Ksli't, 606
Shelter Ann, 424

il.iy, 771)

_ Cov.', 266, 516

Iftliind. 4»4. 612,615

[xIhiuIh. 418
- P,iinl. 480
Sbolvocka laitad, 1108

1305

Shomini hana, 910
fShor.dora Hill, 834
Shcn no she, 1151
Shephord, Mount, 480, 484,

485
ShoHtoi Strait, 738
Sheiuli Hill, 1151
Sho wan sho, 909
Shiiahkotan Island, 733
Whihbts, 867
Shika no se, 804
Shilka Uivur, 765
Shiniidzu Harbour, 824
Shimodsusa »ima, 821
Siiiinoniu wma, 891
■Shimo no Koahiki, 91 1
iShimonosaki, 792
Shimo Yiiuiada, 852
Shijiafjfawa, 838
Khinano Rawa, 873
Shintfle Point, 439, 608

Spit, 479

Shiuininjito, 875
Ship .\nchorago, 537

Ckinnel, 418,420, 425

Ihlet, 407

Piis«n)?o, 410, 617

Point, 477

llook, 147, 444, 675

Siiipunskoi, Cape, 728, 729

Slunmai Hay, 867

Shira »he, 890

8hira«u Heef and Light-

houBn, 790
Shirinky Inland, 737
Shiroi iwa, 797, 793
Shiro iwa. 865
Sliiro-se, 892
Shi-rthaka Island, 799

,Shish;tldin, Mount. 6T0

Shinhkotl' Point, 871

Shiwoonilo yaina, 800

Sliiwo saki, 81 1

Shoal iJay, ;)o9, 360

Channel, 48J.3

IniandM, 376

Point, 14 4, 399, 761

Shoals Point, 630

Snoalwator I'.ay, Oupe, and
Light'. uuso, 312-15

Sho-ran H;iy, 271

Sho ura, 897

Shovid Mand, 1108

.Sho yania, H'M

Shrub Ulet, 517

Point, 544

Shuiirick K.M.f. 275

,s|iuuishu l^anJ, 737

Shurijo, 1151

8hui"hariii> IJay and S.iddlo,
507-><

Shuto PaMaijiA, 365, 373

Uf. I, ;.74

Shuttle Island, 578

Siichladak Island, 659

Siatnattu, 817

Siapuii'ir Island, 992

Si III NV'iihii lliiv, 773-4
Sibi no ijiiki, 669

8 D

.(Mil

KtOi^

INDEX.

Silii.ttii nimii. «fiO
Sirint* r.inl. !>S

Hiiltiry CluniK-i niul Sji!.

.if-.s, :i''^
ISi.l. Hn, S02
8ii rp»!, hoiH, .Ift

Suf.'inm (^lllnl^. (.77
^ihiianttin |.>, I'.Tt, lii^
Siklii. liiv.r, \'>H
SiUini' nm.k. Si;i
b\k. k >-l»n.i. ::s, 7S7
SiJt. l«n bl.di.l :u

Silv:4 lit) At'i^ra Iiil.in<r 2<,

do 'lifitn* Ulaitil, 2i,

Sim*. Cmyit\ SI',) ^.'(l

l»iiii«ijti »;in'>, 'MO

fcini» kuvhs tiiti, M)$
Sim^-i.i .c ) 1, h7."i
Simt" lu'ff Ulnnd. *5<?T

Suri<.-ia HHrUmr, 77:v 7t»'.\

t<i)iHin.Hnf'« I'oint, 7\*()1
(Siinriitu»eki, 7'.U. TVi
.—■ Hlnul, 7S3, 78'*,

79I-.S, hHl
Kimpton, F'lFf, (>.').'>.'>

I»l:tiid». !«.!rt

• ■ . !'<.il, b.Vj, ,V»4-6

Hork. .'i.'m

Sh.«l. (-XX

Siinuttr I'Uisil, T.!9
hiri>ih"riii» ).'r, .i(-
Ijiniiliia. ftini Kiij»i*, ^l, no,

i:u, U.'j
Sinrl.Hir l»!inil, M'i

SiriKlt- lit' t, 44«

hinm. riir«n. H64
NinUliip'i, l^iii, 2
hiDiuhi Toiri!, 621''
hiourkuutn. ('•(-r. 7CJ
Sir^h >ni« 1U> , s.'7
^irxkiirut, C'a(M.-, HCl, H03,

Sir» n.ik» Itil.-t, «78
Strit'ko, C~i»|H". 7.'>1
Sir Kr)infi» Drake IIjv. 204,

i.'.ft
Hitmno Ifu' r, •"■3
builfU VwUiino, 663, SCI

Sirivn Hftki adil l.ighlhouih',

^.^:)-4. ^'iil
.Siro niiiiM. 7«(>. 901

Snt> yhma, 7M, sil
.'^iiii-unkii |l (\ . !^7t)
Smki H:iy, ^■»7

(uikl. '*'>7

Sixirr liil«n>t«, fi'Jl

^^M.r^ UlcU, .t.'i». 417. 4M0.

4S1. Atl

r.dk«, ISl

U,.ck#. li>A. 'i7S

.'^toiir.i r>iml. 707
Siii hniink Ulnn.l, fft'.t
Siikit, '170. fi'.H'. .V.)l, ft;*:!,

i;.f.'-4, 117H. I ISO

Ar<hij>ol»KO, 697, 61H

CuH

S.uncl. ('.■.>« 634

Silkhm Ulani, (iSO
S,t/t»uri» (•.•«)■, S#ort
Siv..ult)iv li<N k. I-S.1
>>i»i«»h « h^niu'l. li.'O, (VJ'J
>iwoku^i, < 'n[v, s,>7
Si». niiiwki Hiid l>t.-houa<\

M4- 1.''. ><JJ
.^m Nil)))!*, >>4S
,'^llll\ •!>jar i-«;noni« Itftrik,

1 !.' (
,«sM\ki. «im»i. hiK\ R()|
S.'l". Itovk. "*7;<
>i.'ikujj«. CsfM-, 7:u, 7'.'4
sk!\.vt il.iflKHir, .^74-.^
.'^kfliiid lUv *Ti>i (»!i«riJ»,

Skri !i* Uin«i 4.V''>, ,S.'!9 — A4()
Skul<ir«»»' liil- I i (hiinn'l.
.■•.To, .''7!, .''71. .•■-•» 1, .SS.0.7
."^krn* l'i!»<T, 4.'i'>. A;i'J
^kinrritl!* Ivil.t. ,^73-«
SkiMark Ikliuvl, XM
Skil.in, /•<7-H
>k. Un l.lin,|. :«I. Kf.<J
Skii'liii IWrik. 77>i

771

h..»«- s70
Siiy «>:«u.i«h l{i?«r, Ski
M«h I'oiiit, 4C)7
Kl»l« J«li.t, ."..i.S

Churk lawk. .Wa

SU«i«u>k« KiL'^it. 710

|av>r. 'JCii

,*-l»Tiu.<«ki l!*y, ' J

Mrii)t« Ifd«f)(i, 'i'.''.

Shirijwu.tj Kw f, .'((hi
Sliii(^li> < 'huni.t*!, 61 1-13
."^lip I'irll-I, .1.'7
Niiiall !»Unils rti!?
Smith li.l.<, .'.17

Ii.l.rt.1, il9, 640,

t*4S-<, 'J«"h

IiUn< »nd l,i,^bt'
home, 341, 'StU
■ , r. Oil, 30i
■■ hivi-r, '-TA
ttouni,6J4

Smoky n«y. MO
.'<miil« iirii, >'\'l
Siiivlh, (';n>... 700

Nlin<|i4, or l»lit«,
:)'>2, yfil, lM.i4-o
Snari'i IhImhIh, 7^'^
.<ii. ttuhiim, IV.rt, 610
Slui^ Hitiiii, 40<j

('.IT««, 4Si

('r...k, :i7.'»
Corn.r liny, C4.S

."^ 'ciniinc'ii, 7''. ■'*•'. 7
.Sworn) Ulnnil. lOW lo.-Ji

, rucrt" d<.l. :H(i
Soitnnnnff, <'i»p«, 7" J
.•^■ikki.U. 7.i'.l
SoUnriiT Wlnnd. 44,1
S..l.-Ud. U>M.% d... ISf,
, ('nnun tin, 1 'iJ

|{(v k», JO I

VAll-y. 2:11

S ili-iitinnint> Iilntid, 49
Silniv Inland. i.7'J
S..liu'ri'>« Isliknii. '.*ii|
.SimtTi'ro i'.ftk. l',J7

, Pun In .li'l, ^2

Sonibrt-rito I'oiiit, i '>.^

litMk, l,\rt

S.>ml)rio HiTor, 3l»3

S .in.rvill.. Iiilund, !>&!
."^oiinti' Uinitd, 4'J
S.ridra, rj'!, 1 :>(>. 13.'', 1 i7
S.nwiiMt* mid li<mil«, 3, '>.'»,

70.4
.SinM nvA, Hy7
S».k- lUv »nd Inlr-t, 394
Ktii.ii^he I«Ut)d, '.''.t'J
S>.\,)u» Itli'U, 501

-. iv.iiit. f>n

Siphv I»l. f, ft«5
.Smi,.! Ului. U loo»
.>< .n..w l»i»,'id. .M><, .SJ4
S..«jM{oti» !l»y, SjA
S«.An,>\yH, \inn
> i^riUi^i, 10|'<

■ li.iyii, ims

S-U-ati l.liiiiJii, 'J'!, 9">'2-S
S.i!.ik.<ri« ;i.i »hi., 1 IM
.•^..t^)Hohir»».. U..rk. r^'J'J, Wi
.'^.•t«.Uk» Mki, I lis
,s..mhoi CJiannBi, WJ
S..ukMt IiiUl. (S.tO

."^..n'nsN'i', loi.'i
S<,uiid'l'..ji\l »n.| IU«li, 528
.s«uth Mav. l^.»

H«v wi.l U)»nd. 479

l,\,T«, 473

l.uiKd, 663, N45, »»»,

9'.'.\. II'JH, 1138

iU'vt, 4J3

lu«k, 5 a

ll.wkt, 5i^

SiiiUii\n^|ilori !{.. fc. >«•;?

- -_■ ■ S)»'*l -.'t!*

R«iuth-Kn«t \rni, 44V
Suulhsy I'utul, :i!«d

1 .17
3. '>•>,

39 i

M
t

Uxk. 529
mi. 479

I. 532

k. K*!?

S..iith Fiirallon UhnU Rnd
l,i«hlhoiiw, 'iiio, id7-tf,
Vibi
KmthxnU) Uivor, 494
Suiith Ho.v»n Isliind, lUl
8oiitl>-We«lU<>vk, ll'>l
S. nth worth, l'"ii>l, ;i'i7
S.uvurtTivnd ('nio, (W7
Smworoff Ul.indii, i)00 _
S.>y», r»i'<', T')'"), 756, 78U.

S53, WiT, H71
Soiiii nim-i, Hiil-1
SpmWtg, C»pe, 6S0, 717,

I»l«n.\, 763. 741

J.—.- Uhnih. 106\
Spwrowhiwk lUMikers, f)l2

UcK'k, V)i

SpMkiiu liailwur, 021
Sixtk Uo<-{. 67

Stpampr Ray. fit)3

CiJVO, 4^4 ^ ,

I'assBgtf, 110, o->.

oI'J

I.od«.., 40i

, Point, fi^»rt

Sp..x Slr.il. '<H7,HS«-3,JH

Splur.x l»l'»"'>. '****
8,,„-..r Ulnr.d, M9
iSpiior W»"d, .Vift

M>7, 3I.9-370 ^
Stiukm IsUnd, Cm 4
S(,,iro\nt, •''••'>. •>'**.
Svnvv romt, r.fi _^
Siaini: l'>»l'»K'' '"•^',,

S,T.^a li>y. 4*'^' V^
Si.uUu l-l."<d, «'»•>
^ - V'i"l. f''*
Hpiir U"<ii. ''\'*.,
Ki,>«U lVd'>t, f' •

S.i,„« Hock. ^113.. ^__^^^^^

Kquiuv n»y, ;««

B^iuirtol C.y,., 4SJ

HUch.ne. U.v.r tOi
Si,rh>i>Av8ltMl, bOd
ht.K H.v. <>l-9

H.an>»W.lV."t -*J.•^-
^ »ld„tm Ui»!^.i, UJ-

Stdiirns liUiff, 317
St.-oi.C..v«', «''^.-
l«laud,4i>!.

^-.-. I'oint, 362, f>n, 541.
!)45

SUop-to Island, 'Joa

Sttiilttcooiii, ■I'W

SfutiuUH.! Slwijl, 5.'«

Slouhen InLinds, l^O-l^
J_- Uof'k, ''4/

St.<i)honB, 0«i>''.''''*.'^,. ,
__J Wmul. :>>C-7

M.mnt. .^^V^3

. l'a«,age, 484, GU7.

, Port, f'16

Si«rilo l^li"!*!. O-^rt

Sl«v.»rt Hay. 4l»-10

NllITOW». U''-^

^ Port, 5'.>7, 770

. Uivor,4ot.. •>■>!■ '"-

S iUw.it.'r Am-horaKo, CI J

St.d.ui.l Wand, y^.7
Slook..deP<dntandl.a>..i"4

Slockdal" H'"^»'"1IV7
SUdbovoi,CHl«\ <^'

SiolbovsUnia. Uiv'%7i7

Stoiai.', C.ipe. . 10
Stone Molo,Ca5

Slovfor.1 l'">" . & -f-

Storm M-'ml-. fill
Mi't, n4i)

St....kamlnsHlW- -'^

^--f" ;::^'it:;'^ uM, 345

Sl.rlok U'ly. '." ,,,
Strip.^ Mo<inlMn, >-7
^sirvr^-d P.'.^^)'. 3'^"^.„

^"^:::*:S'£403

Stmirt Am-horaK-..J>i7

"UTIl-l.rd. 3o7. 35«.
' S6(;. 3t«y. lM.«Wi

siui.b. isi-'-'i. !'.;^

' a5l. 3f.«, 3'>6 ,
Sucio. Uio. .V.S

S.aio Ss'.iwid, llJJ

Suem./. l.^l'"'^' ^^^..po, 761

„ „, i„„f Cape and
Muuut>un^703^^^ 624

■^2^ Islaud, 748,

^^''* Rock, 202.

Sui-lun Hivor, 770
Wuisun Bay, 249
S»k Island, 999
Sukune sima, 7JJ
SalivanUooh,44'!

^:::l^^fe«o?
^!:::LUnd;n37.u49

I -lands, U36

______ Hock. 191

Rocks, 15

SumassRivor, 410
Sumayo, 104i)

,631

Vi".

Sun.ida b"'^*. «'.^' ^"
Summer Rav, <>' i

Sunday Rock, 42b
Lud.rlandChann.1,499

Su ne po, Capo, »*»'«
Sunp-aua H'H-k. 812

Sunh.ron. 104.>, lU^v

Sunken Rock, oil

Su.m)«iki.H2-J,H:?l

Superior Lagoon, 8

Supm«tition Pom , ..26

Sumdv Rock. »-' ,

Su! L^u«»v Harbour, ^41

^,a Point. 2M

SuVaSaki,786

Surataki, '.H)9

Surf IsUndB, 417, 54,5

____ Point, '.i^

■;f__ . aid Rock, 023

_''. Narrow., 642, 627
Surprise ll.rKmr. 008

»"«''MKur.7S7

>u«chel, Cai>«. 704
SuBinotsu. 908
Su.^>Marial^oon IS8

Sumva.i Anchorog. . -1*
S,^Uland.5M^

Su«ann'oRe.-f.«^3
Suw«riRl>'". --'

Sutchoff, laiH", 7bt
Sut.lCbanncl 49 -J2

SutlojChanu.l,/.03
SutHi.>i, 863, M.^.
Satsuki, Cape. 86»

Sutt Ray, 8"^. "'■'

SuiUiuu Uock, J«.'i

130B

8w»ns IVay of. .♦»

(.'h«n&t'i, 30*. 't".

_!!i_ lUrbonr. en

Svb.Ue U..y. ' ' \

J Hc^^'i. '*••' „,~

yy,n.y lnl..t. Ji

T* I»Urd. 987. W3

T-l.K- bluff. ^'^,, ,.„ 1152
il ... l.l.nd, *4U, 6 6

. r.iMt, '>'>^

U,.<k. Si"

T.l-oit* I.Un'. »^
Hi'k. 16

TaWUli-.l.

'l«d.i»'. »*»>". ***'
T»dt>t»u. t*W

INDEX-

T»h.K,.ow* l.Und. V' <;•
•itth-»U Nium-wt Mid *.anBi,
430. 43*. U:.

ii5«. u'io-i. noi

•l»k» !•->. f*^-'' .
iHkiUimimi. «Ul

T 'k^ mf •««• "•*■'
1 .k^nii »i<n»j »*"y ...
•l«W*n»U UUnd. .«»

1 , Op*-, ''■o

T,k^ mki, Tija
■UkUnn lUvrr. 6l6

■r,kh..n.uh ^-^^- ^^^i ^„,

'l„ki»c««»r« ot'W ""

Tak'.i^f UUnd n&5
lnko Arm. t'll
T.k.m «nd lUv.r. SU
Ukur* «k.. bO«. h
T«ku»h U»r\>our, ai'

■V.UwH. l*»''>',f * 3
T>il.n l«lM»i. /V " ...
T,a-un-kw*ii UUu>\. 5. <

'lionary Ai.iw*. :'>♦

Tamiva Uay.«.*' ..|^

T.naUli»y»ftd^-*P^»^*

Unavr* UUnd, CM
Ta Ki<-i, fill ..

Tan.g. »>«»». '^'*'
Tai,kr« •""»• *; , . r-S
■Un.: KoUn iWy. '•^•'
•KvUUnK^U UUnd and
H»y, V'i-3

•lan..a.l.Kb UUnd OSi
Uuner. H'H. ' ' '
•raiir.<»ur« KeU). >';'•

Tano UK 676
T»n-.K. UUnd. f)i6. «77
l:!!nKi UUnd. «.Vi. »«l
T»,«kUUnd.<.»Hi

TaputeottWk UUnd. 0J7,

1\x la and*, o.o

Ta^wal.l«>d.«*7.«47-»
T«r..d.-a ll«y. 'l*. *".., ....

Tar.l*r. Ulaiul. «*«

Taroko, »<\6
TftrotnaiN"U''no, ««*

rart»nno, hS'.

T»Ti«r ShoaU. 96 ,7.(5

57—
761,

•nd

, Oulf o'.

7f.7. IISS. Iil3.,,
Sirwt, 1 07,

7f>5
Taruri UUn '. « . i

Ta»ir> Mni'". **"''
'I'atkar* ur*. ^l^
la» ko lUrl»ur. »«»
T«»mau lUy. 7»0
•1\„>, Hartx""-. f>«H
IMU'U. E.t«r«>. I*'
I'litai «m». '^y''
laUm »iin». **^*

Tatch.k H»r. «»♦
laUhi y»ro». ^Y,7
1 ii-chu IVini. *a(
•l',t.-itlu «•> *'•"»

l.nhlhou"., «:«
T.a.vama U«y. »;>' *

Ui..uch Ula d wd Ugl'l-

T»uu niMU. yii _
TaUuine no hnn». <"•
TaUiiV' '•''*• ^''^

IVvala, lioc». 132
r.vano. I'ort, 7*^
r»v»Mni, Ui". '^3

■la Wuhu lUy. 77*

'i\h««»»" »»•>■•, *^;.,

•IchsiUht UUnda. 6.<
•l.hak.lm ••ai*. Tl*
'lM,!.»ueUlAnd»,_6»0
•I'.h.niya lUv. 773
•V,h-rkw»ky UUnd.

Tai<tcli«komouro, 7»«
Tc»n»rl"«". ^ ' '

Tai...hU<i"»y liay. 6itt
Tih.nkoff. <«P«'. /'J
IVhouKoul M^uU. b.;i
IVi.oukoUk «. S**'*'.u

1 ■Ict.uikhuda li«*.k, 76H

767.

-^^

1 ■

7fi

81,

•nd

jghU

A, T*7,

n«

, fi'W
717
I. 67»
!«>, 7 1 *
, 64»
I, 76IS

INDKX.

Twci\i>M», lUclond*, 121

•IVbukh, ('M*. "6''>
•l„>>enko(I Covo, «M-»
T«but UlMid. '•*«&

Tfc<>.i»te. HO
TBcu«iton roint, \U

TehuWiU'p<-c, «>*

... , tVulf ft, 0. ""i

H\_96 U7'i. V17*

376,

U32.

■r,.,uii*n lUutI and

T.kHWU'.ltl
T..l..ki»M IWy, f>\J^
•lVUn»ki. Op". '**
T.l ^laph llurbyur,

riwwiK'". *♦"

Trite* Volctno, ^l

.KlrFtn-d Light,

T.imkH- ('hunnfl. •'--

.l;;::S".ui*udandMo«.>t,

T,.n.f»t»»on» Hole,

T.nt l»l'>nd, -ill
■IvjH-cm Cape, and
l*^ ^ 111

5;^S,nUland.7n

/>47 .,,

•l'.*hiu lUver, H. I

Trt.k-,<M'^''**^*

'1 •••""''.'"> 1S1
'1' -itan MIL"*'- ""

T.f«^ y>.ma, ^J'
IVumahUW/;;*;,

Tlmtnet 8h<A *02
Thatcher l'»M*g«. 381

. Cove, 3»8. o88

___— Inland, 37ft

Thirteen laUnds, 1001

Thorn Point, 536
Thomas Point, 60S, 506

'^:'ri:!!!Lffit'36. ^„

H . Hiver, 464, 460

Thommnhy lol-'odB, 4»*,

■I So
Thorn Kock.68«
Thornl^roiiRhthanneM

Thuuih.,rll.M.^.f«'}^«8
Three UUndB, I '/ ' • " ''.,3

lT?*^8i^«Wot-^f^
■l«hunib Peak, U. 6o9
Thunder Bay, 4H7
ThurloelW. 90

Thurlow l^^t'^'J' 7,.?
Tiar.. Mount 74U...l^^

Ti-a-»*<i Wianu,

Tibiuon Island. Ul-2
Tichouor H":;^;/'*'
Tichn.enev, <&i
Tide Wet. 490

■^'ti'^lori Uei;;k.. 1219 ;
R^r W. WhewoU on
KTidosofthoP«c«Jc

„f thft C«ntrftl I »< "' '
Ui4! 'ride 'I'ablos,
1,>25-1'228
Active V»«f'..3''2

Aka»hi 8lia»«. »"» , .

767

Bay,

\,,Ul 80t0, 799 „

ir'ti.h Columbta, 632,

bib, 542, 661

CaUforuia. Uulf <>*. ^^^

Cocoi Island, 92&
Columbia K>ver..»07-H

V;"uv«.'n Channel, 632
l,-,«»er lUver.J.2 ^.

oSrtArchipJ^f^

Uu»ynia»' l>»
llakodat*), «t>"
Uaro Strait, 367

ll..Un li-*f. 1"^^

llioKo.HOH

Uiriido no »eto, »»J

In.andboa, |SJ
322-3

1309

La P6rou80 Strait, 707
Laredo Sound. 54i
Mekari wto, 7W
Milbank Sound, 627
N.»g»H«ki, 905
Niinaimo, 47^-1
Naruto Passage, »iw
Nio^aU, 875
N(K)tka Sound, 4Z»
Ooaaka, 8O8
Panama, 14, l»
Portland Canal, om
UuSlchHTlotteWand..

688-9
lloaario8t»it,354
San FranciBOO UarDOur,

249-260 , ,.„„

b^fldwich iBland., 1069,

1219
Seto Uchi, 789
Seymour Narrows. 496

8,^ono«eki Strait. 79i
8pex Strart. 889
TrincomttUe ^^i""

Twgar strait, 806
Vra^i Channel, 841
VancouTer Inland. 404,

Yokohama, 838

Tie Ibh't. 617

Ti.rra Kima Po>n . 159

Tigalda Island- b71

TiK.r Ireland, 1017

:K'V.;ra 5M9, 6.

__, Uiodel, 33
-rigrito.PunUdel.32

TiUpa, Rw. 2, .6,8«)
I'llema Lagoon, «^

'i::^:ri'iif^rKk.and

Lighthouse, 296-7
Tuiibor Oovo, 203

T'iuginaklBland.O'*
Tini'in l»l»"d, lOi/, '

1049—1052
Tinto, Arroyo. 2')
Tiutorera Point, Ibi
Tipitapa Uiv-r oO
•l-irado nank-.._UH4
I'.shiaKock, <•'*

iiliKuapa. ^:^<f'
Ti-tul Islet, 77
■I'i^n Island, 9o7
i\.^]]. Uiver, 681

laio

INDKX.

Til viw k Stmit, rOfi
Tlu(>iina Ann, fix. 431
Ti>nii|fi Ul»rd>, lud4
ToaM IkUikI. 1()00
ToU lUv. HiO

, Brwi) .1 , 490

nmn. Hil

Tobi loLinJ. lu-'fl

•iniH, MO, S'.tg

Tobootohi lUv. 7.i4
'loilJ l<<xk. 402, 408
T<><lo6 !»• Santo* I«Ui)il,

»i4(>

S«nti>ii Il«y. 227

— l»«v and [(In.,

201-2

Rircr, ITS, 180

TcwuKh H»v, lOTH
T>.«-)Hh.v»h Il«v, 1078
T.fino In'li t. u:i
ToKanhim i>inin, ^18
Toi no miiaki, T^^
Tokiini fiima, 1 140
Tokurt'faky, C'«)h-, Spit, and

Li|i;ht)u>u«f, 7*0
Toka ahika simit. IIAA, UAO
Tokc I'uint and LiKt>l''>'U*c,

312
Tokiii Mn Vmk, Ml 9
Tokio, TMi, hJ4. ^ i7. 838-9
T«<ko<>oa Inland. 'J-'ii
'I\.kon>, 808

1'ok itimit an) Hock*, 11 4 'J
Tnku ►iina, '•11
'I'ul laLuid, ^.'t
'I'oUxld, ('«)*, 'J^.l

1'olmiv Chat.nci and lUick,

632
T<d(xvlin«« r««k. 980
T< l»ii i. Cnjx , '7'.'
1 ilil< y, ('»(«, lio'J
Tom liltt, A.J»i
Tomul- « I'uint and Ttnv,

U4H. 260
Tumatk'si Mma and J^Klit-

Tcnmn, 7«1

'l.tiuin urn, W0».10, U->1
I'uiiia* ]<ny, 43
Tooia tu, ^.'6
Tuiiialcti, llix-n do. 111
TiiniUtoiir h.i), if.6
T'>iT.>f«« lixrlxiur, i't'JV
Tuoiit) niinuUi, 8'j.)-0
Totnil lUv, lfioc.7
'J'oaiiuka MMrtour, yo7-8
I'uinio Mtit, 817, 8o4
Tomo, 7W7
Tuntoinai, 87 1
Totialt ll«r, Hti, 87
Ton d tut. k, file
Turn- K»wu, .S4i»-8:i0

■ • I'cllil, s','.)

Tuoffiu JtUnd, <uid FcTt,
Atio-1, b'Ji, AM6

- '■ Narrow*, 6&8

r«Ni-c. Sfl-^, .'Xi.'i

TutiKU'i i'< lilt uud CUuiUii,
300, 30O-7

Toni^rk H'ly. M6
Timn aaki, °8t)2
Ti'Uin, 1'h|m<, 7&S
T.iikin r..int, ^47
Tonkoy, (.-«p«, <'>.i8
'r(M>-<tai l{<'<'k, 8n2
T.>o-to.)-tMlna liiwr, 2S1
T<>o-«itl, 530
To}i*«p Hnrhoiir. 409
Tnp-knot roint. 4>2
TupocA, C«fw, 1 13
Ti'pololMimpo ll«ilH>ur, 1.1A
TuporkofT Idw, 72i
Toporkowa Iiliuid, <'.'iS
T('ji]iiart Ifarbniir, 41G, 417
'I'linlillo, (Vrri), Ij8
Tordli>, Rio, f>7
Tori mma, 8V7-8
Toriwi aaki, s'>S
Tom*, Kiirallon Ar, \0M-6

l»l«n^, U'Jt

Kocks, 10-^6

Tortt-lo, Cape. lUI
T.rt'.l.*, lUodclod. 271,272
Tiirttifra ItUncI, 164

iCck. 122

Torua UUnd, UA7
To rwki, 7Hrt, Hio
Toaco, Cap<\ 181
To ainui. S43
Tominoinit", ''af>«, 741
Tutumoxiri lala^id, 76C
Tolt.n Inl.-I, 33'.»
I'oulxiut Ha%-. 7ft9
TouchiiiK Ulind, 94'>
Toii(rou«rn«, I'lPiiit, HM.T
T'.ukara aitnii, 1 1 1(\
Toulikakoi Jt N'uliano, C'^
Tuuiounit Hivi-r, ,i«l
Tow llill, &82
Iowaih«i Hay, 1078
Towna.-iiil, I'oint, 60S
Towiuhind, Tort, :*:;l-2
Tow-ut-taii-in, .')''.'l
'i'ojrama Hay and LagLt-

huua*-, 8T6-8
Tcvo, 7y2
Tojoma I'oint. 850
T lyo ainia, 8i'">
Trade Ulit, 64 A
TrxdiiiK liay, ''>>'>3
Trail Hay and Ixi-ta, 48 1
Traitor* dre, d'.<7
Traiturs, Hay of, 741

itlauda, li'J3

Tran()uil C'r> . k, 4j:t
Tran-tttrurati n Hay, 717
Trap Hliiff, 440

Ik.Hkt, 546

Trapii hf I'fiiitiitiiLi 9
'I'mtiriK'y lai.tnda, !<'i7
Trt-adwt il l»ay, i'»12
Truily I'oint and Ij>,'ht-

V. aM-l, h'lrt, MO
Truiv I'ctt,- J.ipan, 77y
Tn>e HluH. Shi

Inland. 3n7, 1127

I»i.'tB. 611

I'omt, ito, 808

Trco Hock. 001

1 rri<-noli laland* k Ilo< k<,

fto7
Trw' Sad.llo Mill, 829, 840
'I'rMfiiaHi i'uint, 'i'>2
Trt'intilorua, Halua d« lui,

211
Tri'MiPton, Mount, 484
'I'rivi Coliimnim UUnd. I12.i
Stariaa Uliuida, 1 12.14,

117
Mari.tna Manda, 111

— Virgunt'* Aluuntano,
l.>3

Trvran Uock, fi72
Trial Ialand«, -197, 401
TnanKlv Uland. M.l
Tnl>iini> Hay, 47fi, 479
Trinroinalio Chaiintil, 36>'i,

383-4
Trinid»d Hay, 2r.7. 271-2,

27 7

, Hoca, 174

ll"«d <in>l I<i(;)it-

huuin, 271
laland, 117, 138

I'uint, l.'ii

Kivcr, 10

Trin ty, l'«|>«', ,( laiua, 069
Tno li...k«, 1144
Tri|.l" Ul t, Hii.t
1 ri-ta, lUxo, 'J.S9
Trniiifo do lo* Litima, I'urt

del, M
Silver Mimta, 129,

189
Troilem laland. 1006
Tr Ui.jw, I'uint, :>'Jii

K,„-k, 7

Tromilui Nhiid. 1004
Tfoiilile I>)hiu1, 614
Triirha Ulind. 21. 22
Triik UUiida, 9'.'a-6
I'ruro laland, i«}2
Iriiar-.tt I'aU-h. 667
T»i li.-»U liui.'tciry I'l-iik, 711
Tathcfti'iila IxLttid, f^70

- J -I.-., >.S2

Tn li <»nnk l-li!, (i7t>
Ta.|iikoUn lilnnd, 73A, 741
1 '•> hipunaki, C'api', 72H
Ta<birikoiI I»!ind, 6('>6
TaclillachaKufl Hay, A83

_ t'upt', fi.'«7

laUnda, »68

Ta>hoka,748

T'x h<.'ii(f it* h'tik Hay, *Sl
Tnliirinkotan lai.iiid, 7,14
'I aikufru K"**, '■'O/
Tailtrooa Uivar, 290
Taiin|««an I'oniniula, 661-0
TmniiK aiina, 785
Tiix UIrt, 994
Tm.ia K.<'k, 751
Tpiiik^, C%]m, 8»;i0. R92
T»ivolko Ultind, 770
'{'•knurn Hay. 714
Tiikal,iir:t Hay, ""l 2
Takuy< no ««, (Hii'i

INDEX.

Tuoo-skalli, SR^
Tiulm Mki. m, «R8
Tsiiliiuhi httiift, H'jj
Tmilid giii^ii lliM-k,893
T«vi\iiitH dhki, yU
Trud» Uiiy, HO'i

T 1 ..,., H.'.S

Strait, 779,

8ivi, 1187, nvi,

854—

LHilit

T-mfiiru Strait, »54

'I'miii siinn, y07

'rii\iki*rai>o, OIJ

•liiiki roii>t, 860

Tiukiji, nx,

Channel and Ugnt,

Tmimini mki, H27

'r,u u.) sima *nd Ugnv

hallHC, H80
TMirna, »02

h(.«»', 807. 877-8
Tiviniifi w'l'i and

hL.uH.N 83:<
Tnuruhii M\ki. 90<>
■l.,„u »i.un & L.gUhouso,

7V'')
T»..»Ht WatotWl, 406
T,u Mum, 7'.i7 _

Tmi-miu« aiid fM)und, .M),

ViW-016
T«»ur» "imft, "M
T»nv» •'">». '*^'' ,,.,

Tucker Uy, 481, »8o
!: Island, umo

TuRidak i»i'»';'i- ^:'*

■1„M,1.. M«nd,9.8
Tuijiir, Uiver, . 4»
•lu»tai»k bay »nd

TuRWiU Inland. .\ol

T.,)..i{i»k. lUv«r, 688
luLklip. i*^

T„UoUW>d 't'l./'i
T,.m<K) l"l»nd, 4..8

1046 ,,„

Tam*»ter U.ver, 340

•lun.U. ^^'\^''J^
'^";r.tandI^oV.356

■runi..«aiu UUuu, ic
6)4 , 0-1

'l,m«r WtJ. ;,^?
__— , I'oiiit, t>-^o

Turret' l»li»n'».;;^4
^ lUnk, 1075

Turtlo l^y. \-%.
1^ Uock lliU». 3"'-

Turtles Rock«, '27 2
Tusima, U&6
I'uBubr.! Kiver, 36
'I'lilomi Gulf, oii
'IMyra Uiver, G, 7
Twontyfeet Uock. 44.)
TwiUu;l't Voint, 623
Twins Uland, 6ii
1_- Wimds, 383, 421, 48J

Islets, 549

. . Mountain*, ol*

. Uock, 6f)7

Two Brothers Uoef,Uli
-rro-hoHdedl'o|ni.6.»
Two-tree Inland, 944
Ty, Kiv«r, 749
TyahUtooa liay, 1080
Tvk, Capo, 761
Tymy Hivor,749, 7'^l

lynso, Uivor, 317

Tyred Point, 768

Tyya Inltt. ('H

T'zarilai Rock, 632
'I'zartoos Island, IU3
T7.«« lHland8, U50
Tviilmeliev Hay, 7oJ

Uiver,

Uakkoun, (JJF. '.1^
UaUul-Und, 9.0-7

U;,n.ll.i. t;avO. 701
Uap If^liin'l- lOOu
\"b:i siiiia, 830 ^
UlnlilVd"t, 3o
Irhi no unii, HUl
I'lhi uini. 811 ,,(,

l-chuckl.mt Harbour. 109
UoluaotArn.,418
Ucona UockH 8^6
lUHa-Mil«i Inland-'; OM
i:,i»isim«, 800, Ul--1'5
Udsu/uri Bay, 8ha
I'.dK 708 ,
\-;r,.^.mk, Uivor, 68<

I irlv t'ha'in'^l. ■^'^ ,,
rivaM.ura,864 8,C
r,kolHlandi,902.%^

Uitlong .HU.ds, 909-970

Vkf siira, U40

UkiRa saki, 1151

UkmskBay, 726

tki«i">a,84l

lako I'.'k, 8.<i,

I'ku sima, 891

riak Isliiiid. 681

VlakhtaUay. '^!^.,

^u Vund«, lo^n

lUoM.nia Bay, 1047
Vlul Island, 997

l;ly->, "^^, „..,

VlyH^e«t«vo.H^

linia si'uv "^"•, {:■' 1043

U,nn»k l^l'^n'i' '^*
1T,„„1 Inland, 0«-\ 9

UuaU^;lil*-'«l. 693

18U

ITnalaska Bay, 672. 67 .J
Unawb Island, 1005
Unimak Island 670

^l::!!lK;.?58. 437. 438

_ rassag"-, 644

Uniontown, 270
Unit Kock. .105
Unkofski Island, 772
v" welcome Harbour. 98.^

XJyho.n Uiver, 692
U,,olu Point, 1078
!!!!!i^!lckCJel and Hill.

3.59—300
Upwood P.^nt, 486

!!:!?!: Channel, 825. 829.

UrSli Harbour 8U

U,ukawaBay.8».4

IJranie Bank, 998

Ura-no-UUi, <87

tlrava Island, 16

Urbitsh, 741

IJri Hima, 8J8 .,„

TJrracft8l«l»nd9,lOf.lO.)9

Ursula Chann. 1,(1 J>i
Urukthapel Island, lOlL

U;«?islanf.7>^«V^»
U.alghin Bay. 748

U.slu-ganokubi,8S9
U^iishir Wmd, fiJ
UBi8ima,800
U'8trit«i Island, 762
Usu, Cap". 8<5b

I'subro Uiver, Jt)

Umiri. River, 70^

Uszi Volcano «64

X'ti ik Islands, 9ou. J"*.
Uti.'>a,942
UiWilokski, Cape, <44

Uton'J Islo*. ^'3
Ulsalady, 343
Ut-tc-was, 68i
Uwasima, 7Ja
Uyama Peak, 915
Uyolanglsland -|69.0<"
Uien Volcano, 907

.\rin,

VakhiUkaia. Uivor, 729
Vaksel, Cape, 721 _.

Yaldos Island, ^'^'^'...fi'
2_ I'ufrto de, 646

VaUtla Uo.i, Ua»

ValL, Cerro, 9
vLliontes Islands, 987

Valadolidliock, 10
V;.HodoBanderasUaj,Ui

Yall.joBay.;24J

ValU.nar, l'o^n^ '^■''l
Vulpaiaiso, 12.''8, itu

1037 . . ifl

V.nn ('"»>«. W>

INDEX

. 721

Verde, M.*»V^. »»*

IU<>. «♦>

VerWhoWur.kv W'"^.
V..n.uMo. Mat. 1 -J

■VerwiOL-i. li"^"",".',
V.rnonU^y.*!* .

lUud. «i

^j^^f!!!!!!^^ \tock.. n.'.3

__ r..int. 3*.. ♦''
V.lWM,chm.k. Volcano. 7ZH.

Vin..r roint, jai

V,n..fm» U*n;^ »'*
Vu.lm. r«nU. 3ft

S.>un«». **** ...

Vi,K.n d.' IK.!.."-. ;«*

V„pnH.>ok-^\^V.9
Y„tinu<.M.>o«>». •

V.rkhov»k.W»>.>U. ..0
V....U U'-^k. i7

v,v.r* »•;'"'"'•.%

7i>«. "'^ ../.
V Wan l.l«nd. IW*

Vo.u.k »W..k .'.3. .«»
Yn--. l»l»nd.»iN'>_' •

NV«,>dO» UUn-i- 3i7
\V».U no mi«»«' ""

%Va,«kr.U..V. l'>.3

^^•-*T' i" MrnU.r H-0

\Vai»n«'. l^**'

XV«.a..UMounUm .100

NV«iWK.v<-r._»lOl

\V».l«ku, lO'*' .

NV..mW.uValWy. U>..

'J^l'L- t*Ha«u). 1093.
' *"'* ,>i.Uici. 107«. »080

\V„.«ru, 1«'M
NV«i..m» ll»y. '♦''*.„3

vv.kM*u*y.;"-»

\V«k«y'»«n».»*li

wak« i*-y. V,,^' ^^**

ll.>ok. 3H4

„ UUl.d, 3oH

^Uri M»nd« ^nd Kotk*.
W.U-^ »'.K>.v, ftJl .

NVr».r..I.Und *;»^^^

Sv'',H«%t..ol«l»nd 30»
NWrdlUrW.rorCvvcoW

NV.rl.'. »•">"'• '^'*'
NV.rk<h.nua.-W',60l
^ l,Uiid, &33

Inl.n.l, «.!3

Wamor ro-nt and Un.r.

K<K'k«,M7

XVar^^uk l.Und. J00«

lVrtH<>ry,C«a»l

of. i77. 3ll-3*»

\v.u.>t'.i>fl »*-y- «**

\v .uh»»" •"!'*•

Wmanokfc, '*'*^ .,,

NV.Ua.ki. <'«P^. "^'

\V»Uh lUH-k. .)l'^

NV»t.h.rUl.t-.'>*».\ >.
\Vi*rt»ll«>.«-k»ndl.i«ns

K'73, l«'74

Hift,

INI>\'.X

I Jo

lock*.

1,601

1. 1., I"'**'
lid lU>ir.

,.d. ..<•«>♦. lil'l

iii.t. «T«
lU.ry.tV^aBl

SIS

, 66ft
», HiO

• - '.

449.

fill I,
.•)34

UckK. fi^»

cno . p f,70

>N'.41in«lon.47U«^'.,

v..u..v»r«:;'r67a

>VrMiU'ff»»'y.";,»»*'

__1L_ I»l»ni. 70.

UocV*. 3^-' ,,,10

Whaloy. r>nnt. oJO

:^_ ti.tr u»> ■.''■•!,.

. r>no CoTo, 42.

Uockl'o>"t, Hlf

.. Spr«':pt'!M«'. '''"*

_ __ \V tir IVvy, ''13

NVVnt..«tono Sorrow, C27

I'miii. 4»'
NVh.unK Harbour •.:<l

\v.,.t.»..4».y.'^*;^'

\V»,ltr.nn-l'»y. Ciipe.OOU
NVhym.a IV.y. lOOi

^v^yto.■to i'.ay, \^^^

VV,M.rU'vy.770
NV.ll.m.Uc Uivor 300-Jl^

NviJims Reef. <V57

•Mi- 2H

NV'u.n ^'r'; *'•,"' .c9
Uliind, ih-".

n'>.s,

I,Un.l«. 1001

331

Kock, 226-7
I'oint.lW.. , J,.

furniii,

1177;

ofUkh..t.k.UH2.(-;l
Typhoon*, U'^l-ll'-'^

Alil»kl». ll'^ ..go.

Amur Uiv.r, .GC, ^S'*
Anudyr U.vrr Uftl

Astom, n.*-., n.7

AvatcbuU-y. ;?1
l.,:.k.r r^b'"! J,\',,5

V,nU!*h Columbia, on
Ulifornv. Co-t<>f, 200-

CuroUn/ Archip.Ub">.

97i-.MlOO
Central Amunoa, 4— •>

Cor./orm:o, 8i-4, UJ,
Dalcc. ^ff^^

K^«lU'f"•'"■ ' i ,f 171
li.lT.-Mi.f^tf'.'M'f- *'.,«.

OiiUtiArchip.biBo,'J-'8-

'^3J
(iii,vin!>». 1.5S

lUuliiil^; '^^^-S2
Ja,nd.'FawS'.mt,3-t.

^o^v.v Clt^rni'*. \^-»^
Co;i8l, 1'*, ,,.,

Z^^ Mcbipeb.g.'.

,S:.., 072 ion

N,,onIsbu.d 1V^3
llkho'slf, USi

o b

881,

-ho

t.f

Vtini.ouvL'»

Id.

lt,M«

1314

Wiwpt— fmhmtiM.

s*n ium, 11 ^, n'^-iio

PuRo, 117»', 1177

Fr»rui»<o, 1 1 7"'- 7

.Iimn lid Hiir, if>, 47

SaMlwi'li lalanila, IvCt'i-

lifi*. Ill 9, lUO
tifto Tchi, MM
bitkm llhO

Trrral, hi, ft

Ttn(r«r Strait, 8ft4-ft,

nH7

Viuifouvfr Inland, SWi-3
I'iraum, L<i, !>
V«r liUnd, 1007

Y.-do, (iuif of. una

Yno IiUnd, n't?
%Vii<Jy I»let« aoil Kock,

.'.43
>^ intrhmm ItUnd, tit
Winter <'<»•>, 3flH

_ HitrK'ur, i4S, 460

>ViM< laUnJ. 3yj
N\ I. hart Il<'' f, >»»«
V.t»h«-), C«li.«. «4»
U',)ari IiilatiJ. 413
NV «huu Ikland. K'.ii
\ViHlt'hou»«« I'oinl. 6i9, «34
Wuawuilaki Hirlnxir. 60M

M.nl. CU2

\V..lr« Ulandn. luUl-3
W.ilmi Inland. ".'"JA

Wvif iii.Hnd. ;iyi

I'oiiit, 341

Rock, 625. 606

W. man of th« rotiod
liock. 212

WoDit-n Bay, 658

\\oi<A Hill. IIM

-— Iidai.d, 24(">, &J8

l»Utid». 422

Kofk», 616

WuiMlrock lAiutinn, 64U

. IVint. 647

\V.jo.lnd Ii.Und, iSl

NVoodin Hi-ck, 612, 619

\Vo.d n r«aMK<-. 1014

NVoodlf UUnd, 9J6. 'Mi

Woody iKliind. 6.5H

— I aland Channfl, 307

WoolridKf I»land, 4>*3
\V.rkC■h.nn^l. Ai*!, Ml
\\ol\com\>r I •land, ihi
W'urmaow, IV. int. 6'>4
Wolji- IaLirid», ».'>2. y&H-'J
W.Uhc I.Unda, «C2,»63.4
Wmngil Hay. 773

Cli»nnel, 602

. Fort, 693, 601

Inland, em

Wrnnfrrll laUnd, 701-2
Wreck Hay, 419

rcmt. 448

Wright Sound, &34
Wukidu lima, 1149
Wuraniiga Uay, H7H
Wiirato Inlvt and Light,
7«7

INDEX.

Wnwt, Capo, 7ftl
Wii(iin>*ili>. Tort. SOS- 4
W> .dli lotand, .127
Wv»nda H-Kk, 027
Wyinu*. not

Ximlapa liivar, 80
Xima, I'rtpo. HI9
Xim»t«p<s 4H
Xi(«nKu, 777
Xachwait, 604

YacJcoria. C«ito, 1 56
Va^ji Inland, I1.S4
Yitf(uiri InUnd.HD
Yntftichi ura, MH
Vittkiku yama, H76
Vakai hi. 823
Yakuzig Inland, llSft, IIM
Ykiir ya.zaaaki, 8.'>6
YitkuML. C°i.,io, 1 1^5
Y<ko4.. \\i*, H >»l
Y»k.)i:nUiv«i. ft"-3
YakUira, («pe. AtO
Yakuou rroa, 1 1 4 J
Y»k<'.,u IUhi(. 1141
Vctkuta >iay, 636
Yali>, 460
Yam liar, 1104
Y air aJali arbour, 8i2-3
Yama tT'*'*. 784
YaliiakUMUial, 8C4
Yamala ur:i. 80i
— - in,, "OS
Yaniatti f(ij< hi, 1 l.W
YanaKi 1*1(1, 1166
Yiui«<«, H94
Yaniakinon, 713
Vank.-<> lUaJr Kxkl. 337
Ynp Inland, V71. luo.S-?
Y'>i{ui lUv and lUvur, 136

, Hi.). 169

. Surra, 137

I'ltijuina lltiad and Ltght-

buuto, 292
. KiTGT and Uay,

290.2
Yafiuinnah Hirer, 293
Ya naki, H7S
Yaaha Inland, 608
Ya nima, 795. 796
Ynnman Tak« Uiil, 887
Ya-tea. 5^4. 6HS
YuUya aiina, W'jii
Ytl>inu, 873
Yrlioahi yama, 836
Vi^boai ainia and Light-

hnoap, 882
Y'oliokuni no n-.inntt), (<87
Yrdn, "79. 7fll, "82, 834,

S;)7. M3M.9

Bay. 778, 825, 834-9
, UuUuf. 82^-833, 1106

Hock. 7W
\ I I lUv. 806
Ycilotki. 526

TaIIow ninff, 604

Ialaiid,362,374.47dk

478

Point, 377

Yt' miir*, 821
Yt'Koi aimn, 880
Yanokid') Inl.'l, 816
Yino aima, son, H30, 88t
Y< BO urn, 823, 824
Yra laUnd. 474
Yorba Uuuna. 238, 340
Inland, utd

LiKhthouao, 246-7
Y'nr^bin, Point. 713
Y'cruno, OijH), 806
Yorabu aima, 1143, 1149.

1150. 1160
Ya mki and LighthooM^

8U4
Yman, Capts HS7, 801
Y^ aima, 803
Yoaaaai.i, 867, 868
Y't>U)rt)p Inland. 740
Y'ototno »aki, 804
Y'<.-lorii|> Strait, 740
Y«»o Inland, 754. 778. 77»,

857-861. 862-871, 1187

Strait, N«7

Ykimah Inland, 1160, 1101.

1162
YkiUk InUnd, 880
Yk '<k, Ckpe, 650
Ylnpo IllTwr, 111
Y'narajan Uay, 1047
Yobuko llarl*oar, 884 -S
Y'odo gawa, 8(>6
Yo<laihi Hork. 792
Y'ukohama and LighU, 770,

7H0, 807, 836-8. 1260, *c.
Yokoiao, l«|>a, 856. 872
Y'okonr Km ka, 826
Yokn anna, 708, 799, 880,

88». 1146
Yokoaka llarlxmr, 836
Ywlk I'oint, 5 44
Y'ori nima, 115>>
York, L\\^ 697

Inlo!, 562

Tuahiku minaki, 908
Y'o aima, 800
Yoaino IIiAd, 801
YoucJiin. CaiH', 723
Y'lunanka lalitiid. C76
Young lalvt, 345

. r..int. 611

— — , I'l'int, B.»y, and

lliv.r, 305
Youp-nut, liifcr, 697
Y'nUpa, 90
Y'ubotB, 864, 808
YuK«' nima, 799
Yu-4juot I'oint, 432
Y'ukon Kirer, 091-3
Yulap, 804
Yul» Inl.'t, 442-3
Y'tioia, Furt, 146
Yii no urn, KH4
Y'ura, ho\ no9

Vurt D«y.79«
Yuimnoochi. hHU

Yuri •««». 7W
Yu«iin». «t>7
Ytttai limAi B77

ZM*toK Wo, Ipl

^mok, 0«pe. 773
24p44u»iaU»y, 70i

INDF.X.

Z«p».»nie lUy, 704

Z»fK)t«, 77

iHUina, 4»

ZMombo UUnd flOll
Z»n«i>« W»nf '"Van

/.•«ikMidi» Bockm 1058
Zob»lio« Ami, 439
ZoJionoi UluU, 30
iouobU Uock, 031

7,flT0 Rock, S«li

Z.!t Ulnod. 1017

ZniontUtl. Uio, 70

Zipegiia, Piedr* and runta

do, S9
Zoga»»W, 811
Zonwnato, (.<
Zoii»K.ff Inlands. 704

Zticiarte Channel. 4.f
/unim, Barrot do, 2o9

779,
M»7

LlOl.

a. 779,
7i

>, 880,
J6

ay, and
697

NAUTR'AL 1)11{K( TOKlEfc;,

By ALEXANDER OEOROE FINDLAT. FRO. 8..
rUBLISHED nv KICIIAKD IKM.MKS LA UK IK,

M. riSXT BTBEET. I.ONDOlf, I C.

t I. J.

1 -THE HORTH ATLANTIC OCEAN.

A MiiMiMM, I>i'«Tii>livr nnil K«|'liiivit'iry, I'l that ' Wiin wnd it* T'hi-nomonn;
atiii i.f iu Co'ii'tJi fri'iii N rthin\ K.Mr<.|»' t<> l.il«ri/». it* An lii|>ilii«"«,
l>iin(r.T«, IJt(lilh'U»o, Wiiiiln, 'I"iiln», Ciirn-iili', 4r. : with »iiiniiT>'iiit
Illuiitriai"ti» und Piitrranui. In ciu' vuluiuv, n yiil wtdvc, H'.fJ ii(i>{i>«.
f\tir!,fH!h y.Jitt-n, l"*?'.' • • • • • • 18

2 THE SOUTH ATLANTIC OCEAN.

A l>>Mn|>i.'ii >.( tl..tt I •> • 111 ;inn«t« > (
Hm»il. fr>m I'.im tti« Illii'ttritiomi. In onu vulunu', royal ortAVu, H77 l>'iK' *■
A'i»if\ hl>ftt>, \<">{ . . . '. . . . IS

8— THE INDIAN OCEAN.

With l»i«i riptii IK < ( ita ('i.i«iiti«, I«Un>U, *r,, fr"m th«> ('«j>« nf f}rw-«l |fn)««
1 1 thf Stmt of Sunln unil Wi».t> ni Aii«lrtl n, iii< lu'lin»(. *1*>. th"- KoJ
H<'A •till !'• pimn Oulf. tho Wimi*. Moiii»>.>nii, aii'l Curn'iita. thu
}')tM-itf<« fp'Tti Furo]><' t<) it« vnriiiiiii I'orta, An<t thi' I'ort itixiil:ili'>ii«
&nd {li.irif'it. Iti'liiin &I<in«y, Wtufhtii, nn.l Moimircn, Ar. With
niitni'n'un lllii»trntii.iiii In onr voluinn, r'jil i«Uvci, \,'M2 iki+?'»<.

f\uriK j-:,i,! : --J . - - - - 1 8

4. -THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO, and COAST OF CHINA.

From tli' Str iiti . 1 M li. . i ii, i >in U\. •iml tli' I'li-'iir' • \'ji»t • i .' «* t, to
('iint4in, Shni-.k-iini, Ihi' Vi lU w S« .1. K'P i. *<■ with hiMTipti'tid of nil
th>' (',«tj«i«, I).l,ni«, mi<l I'.iiri t», tlo Wiiil». M< it«i<ini<. nn-l t'lirri-nl*,
and (itti.'ml Iri»tniiti"ii* f.r ttic vnrioua ( h.'iiiiii>lii, HiirlN.urn, At.;
*!»<", V.«»!Milnr;"-<«. th'> Mniiy. Wi ightK, nud M-^i^'iri*. W'wh
nuiii' roll* Ilhictriition*. In otio volume, royal ui'tavo, \,i'M pat?'*
Thii! fi/i.'i'«. !•<»'.*. - - . - . . . 1 tt

6.— THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN. Rud JAPAN.

With !»♦»< rijition* of th< C'-n.-tji )>'tw. . n I'litiam/i nii<l th<> S<«<1 of Juptin,
i«n 1 .'f Ihi- I»Uiil» N irtli (if th<- Faju it< r, tm iiiiiiiif tho .1 i|'ii ■ o
An hija Li^i, with itn Win !», ('iimTit*, I'liMinirt'* Ntwi'. n t)ii' Mitinn
I'ortit. Ari ., and i'.um>ri'ii» Illu"tr«tion». lu our vuUnic, ri-viU octMvo,

I,.'."' jMl'.-o. T>>,>l^ll!>^l.\^"^ • • . ' . - 1

6 -THE SOUTH PACIFIC OCEAN,

Wi'.li N 1 '<v'ri;.'.i.'ii of iiB ('.(,»•,» n. I Inhnd*. jK-tw.tni ("«|v II. rn iiiid
i'nn/ini.\, Siw /.'•■il-iiiJ i«iid Aiuiti!ili:> . it« Wind*, CurT'iit^i, iiJid oth.r
I'hi'n .111- n«, with li.'triK tioiii f ^r tho I'anwMfon t..twi>.n itn vnri.'-ii
l'ort», Ai , and n<im< r-.u« Illuiitntliuns. la on<i vulumr, ruyal octavo,
l,MH) !«<,'<• /i/fA t.iUlt,m, lf<M. - . ■ .

7.— A TEXT-BOOK OF OCEAN METEOROLOGY,

loiiii'iicl frill th>- h\-
\V. I!. Mfirtiii, UN

8 -LIGHTHOUSES and COAST FOG SIGNALS of the WOULD.

IaAh, uiid lliAi rij'ti^hx "f thi li< v< !i>{.iii< nt <.( tl>'
vi^fiition iuti.irf.it)-"! up t'> ttic pni
{.(f.S. Ildi.awmitly liiuii'l in doth.
f<j| Suppli tni'iit^ gr>itt* for Thru- yi-«r«

Iliij-ii.iiit \ii- t.i
Navi^fiition lu* i,. rf.vt<-«l up t'> t>ii''|'n«ent tiiii>-. Ity A. «•. Klnolay,
F.K.tf.S. Ildi.awmitlv liiuii.l in doth, .innuai l-.tittum. with ('oii|miiii<

» U

1 C

»e liip<t'ni-«, and iilit. d hy S'ntT-f'.immond' r

In uni' M'lui.'ii-, n>yal ixLitvo, with liliutntioiui. Vi

'' .' o

> - h

ABRIDGED CATALOGUE

[APJS AND. NAUTICAL WORKS,

rUBLlSHEU BY RICHARD HOLMES LAURIE,

WORLD. £ t. d.

Imtgu Chart, on Mtr—ttr't Proftftiim, •howinf; with minute il«t*il all th«< fmtun^a
uf Uiid and o<-MU). On fuut ahtMU u( double clophitut |«|>«r. Muuntotl un
lineo, with roller*, full coluumd, hound mIkm. and vkrnuhud . . . . S 9

Siu, teh*n mounl4Mi, 4/t. & m. fttj/h, by djt. 4 im. tritU.

WORLD.

ll«ro«tor'i Prjection. On on« Urffp Rhe«t. Plain, fit. ; roloorod . . ..060
KountMl '<n linen, with rollrra, and varniahod , . 1ft

NORTH ATLAHTIC OCEAH.

IrUh the WinJi, Curronta, and other Phenonien*. By A. G. Pindlat, PR. OH.

On fuurnhoeU. With Nolee 18

HORTH ATLAHTIC OCEAH.

witiK It* Coaata and lalandn Intwenn Int. M" S. and lat 6* H., with Diafrrama
of the Winda, ('urrenta. and the h<tet Track* f-.ir voa»d*. Cln twu lar^e ahaela.
Hy A. 0. Pi.Hi)i.AT, F.R.O.S OSO

SOUTH ATLAHriC OCEAH.

Dm '.at. 10°N. tolheCapeofOood H«p« and Cape Horn, includinir the Wentorn
(xxist of America to Pauam* : with Pl^na uf thv llurboun, kc. Un four ahevta 18

SOUTH ATLAHTIC OCEAH.

I twu Ur^e aheeta ..010

INDIAH AHD PACIFIC 0CEAH8.

Din the Cap<i of (iood llupe to Capt* Horn; with Plan* of flfty-two of the
principal H.irboun. ArriinKd on twelve aheeta of double elephant paiwr
Hy A. O. FiNDL»Y, P.U.O.ri. Price of the whole 8 8

Each aheet of the above Chart (No. 12) may be had aeparutvly, price . . 4

HORTH PACIEIC OCEAH.

BingaheeU in. IV. V. VI. of the aboveChart 16

SOUTH PACIFIC OCEAH,

ting: idieeU I\. \. XI. XII. uf the above Chart . . .. . . . 16

3 ABlUDa ED CATALOai'H OF CHARTS.

27. IWDIA2f OCMM (Northerui Part), ^^

t'rom tlio Hdi Sin to K.tentwchfttkH, New OuinoB, Ac,: b«ing ih)>«U I. H Til r)
Clmrt N"o. li ' .

28. INDIAH OCEAJr Joathern Part),

Fmni iSk" '.'.ij>i! i-i ti<io-t H-nw !«i Amtrnlta »n(2 Van Dieinfn'a Ijand, fta b«),«j
i.twU VII VUI IX uf No. ja _' ,.

29. PACIFIC OCEAN (Southern Pftrt),

Fn^m Xi'w /..•aUriii to dpf ll.>rn m\(i the Hirrtr TUU, wiOi th« Oo««{ji of Cli
.^n 1 r>ris ; Ving »hf-<'U X XI. XH. of No. )3 |.

30. PACIFIC OCEAN NortberQ Part),

t'viitajjiinjr tbi! S\V. I'tjun* of N.W. Aot'tic*. M«sic«, OnlifoiaU, to Jupj.
Chii;», /MlJ tint Kaxti-rti Arc*Jip'.'l«jp; being »htNiU IV. V. VI. g| Jici U . j

31. THE INDIAN OCEAN AND EASTERN SEA'S.

I'lo II ihn Caiw (if (t-jo <.4Uj1<>.!i, witli Now S.'nth W»U«, Npw i!<*l»n4
*c. ; with riaiw. *>n flve»h'«{a. By A, U. Fsmllat, F.K.U.H (j

32 A TRACK CHART OF THK WORLD.

CvinjTi )i"n iip.i; lii • wh>'i> N«v'i,;,iuirt c' lh<5 WdrM.for marking n tShip'i* trtcii
Ou ihnii »hoeU, ljn«4 Willi l>iue p»[>w .. .. ,, .. ,. jj

The t*3)9 Chart to cloth .. ., ^

85. THE BRITISH I8LE«,

fivim \h'- Sit'iUniSn (n th<- V>»ut of Fr»nct'. On iwo Urge ahotU ,, ,, jj

37. THE HIVER8 THAMK8 AND MEDWAY, Ac.

Wiih » .'Viiiiji^ l>irw ti^ry .. ,. .. .. ,„ .. .. ,. (j

39 A HAKBBOOK FOR THE RIVER THAMES.

lUm!: i'..'-i by hii'v. n s.'* ii .un. *'ii*rJ<, «how«iig th# Nftrigffction ftns\ Loaicnt
i>r(ortlni!iM tn'I tb« I>«iw3ui . ,

40. THE ENGLISH CHANNEL, with tha Brutol md Part of the S:

George » Chancel*.

With I'Uti* iif ttie JUj-.-Kjum. 4c. With • ISook of Dintctiona ,,

4L THE THREE CHANNELS Tho Englith. Bmtol. tmd 8t. Otjorgfi
€h<iuaoU,

b)>«wi>vx t)ir <'o<*<* of Kni^Unj uni Wt^loii. fr«im Hall rouni (o Liv«tn»v4. i: :
of mliod, fnin U <(>li& to Oaiirin-. NViih I'Ua*, mai « Ikntk ot Dint;, :i M

42. THE STRAITS OF DOVER Mid Approaehof,

\V:-,'. VUl.'. ..J U.r H'u->».un» !j

44. EASTERN HARBOURS of the Eugiuh Cha;un«l *'

45. CENTRAL HARBOURS AND CHANNEL ISLANDS ..
46 WESTERN HARBOURS and Idei of th« EogUiih Chiumei, dc.

47. THE ISLE OF WIGHT.

With I'luia «>( Pi>rt«finiMth ll»t-bt)ar, HcmlhAOipton Dork*, Ac. ,, ,. , (|

Ou ( lilh, Kol iod i:-. ( 11*' .. ., ,. ,, ,, ,, ,. .. tj

48. GUERNSEY. JERSEY. Ao.,

hiA lii <■(«#! .'1 Friistn. ffow C"«[H !<»»« ts Kinhut Itlonda, w»th PUna of tk«
tlvtiowr*, Ac WiUi n IWiok of Diroctiont ,. ., ., ,, ..I'

nth

PUBLISH KD liY H. U. I.AIJRIK.

In III ,(

»C. Uv,

"fa: ^1

I '^ J Ilia;

•• i,.4«

/'•Aiani

.. U

T •• ?r»fb.

Lon it'll 1
f the 8;.

BEI8T0L CHAlSriTEL, £ .. d.

nth riaiiB of fchfl Hivrbount. On 2J »hfi«.>U. With a B'x7k of Dirwtionn ..080

{£ ST. OBOROE'S CHANNEL, with the Bristol Channel, &c. '

om tho A'lmiralfy Siirvoyg ; wilh I'lani of the Harbours, Ac. On thr** »)i»>iit.i.
With tt Hoik of Dirtx'.tionft .. .. . . 12

GEORGE'S GHAHNEI, Rud the COAST ALL ROTTND IRELAND,

rUh riftfi* of tho H.vrbouni, &c. With i B(K)k if DiroitJom 10 6

SOUTH AND south-west COASTS OF IRELAND,

etw>«'.') Waxforii and th« River Sluinnon. With I'Uc* of tho Ilarb uirn, 4c.

\\ ith K BtK'k of Direction,* 10

WEST COAST OF SCOTLAND, with the HEBRIDES, Ac,

ie (."<«*tn iif hcotl«.nd )mtw«»)n Ayr ami OftfMi Wmth ; th" Coaj^t of In>):ui<i '■»'

l<>twc)>n Ol(»n«rn\ Dhv ivnd Vhc lil'iody Fori-Innil ; «nd tbi* wholti of the
HebriiiM i>r Wnat^rn loliind*. With I'lftnn. With a B<M>k of Directionn . . 8

ST COAST- DUNGENE88 TO DUNDEE,

Hvh PiMii of th#- Thaniy* Dixk*. thtt Downs, 4c. With a Bcok of Directions .. 14

mENESS TO THE RIVKR TYNE,

J\%\: I'iana of the 'ITmuiim Docks, tU« Dowhii, &c. With » Book of Diroctioiw . , 12

^mfH EASTERN COAST OF ENGLAND,

dtw 1 II lli'achy lleu.i rind FlamlHirtMiKh Iloiid, iiiwl tho ('oa«tii 'f Kriiiicr and

l.tlifi iin Vt.wcon ItouiojfTie aiil 0»U>nil, with I'luiH of she liurijoiir-s Ac. ' '> ■■ ■''
^A■ltl.^ n Ho-'k i'f Dir.Tlion* 10 6

EAST COAST OF ENGLAND AND SCOTLAND,

I'om Finnihiifiiixh Hi^iid t"> th>) Oricnfy liifuil^, nn I ih ti^e to ("np*; Wrivfh.
Wi'h oontirsiKvtioii to Ic'UKd. On ',\\ AlW mu-titd. Fr mh tin AJiinriiUy
Siir»t'yi«. With I'l.iui uf the IfArlwur*. *c. With \ i(iH,k of DiriMtiouB .'. 10 6

COAL FORT PILOT (DangeneM to Newcastie),

Hwitiiiiintc Ch»rt« -if tho t'oant Vfttwwn Bitchy \\< ad %\\i\ tho Hivi r Tyri", and of
Frunc<' ana Uilrfium, h^twien H.iil'icni' «iid Osteud. With I'Lins uf thi'
liitrl.'Utv, &c \Vitti a B<;uk ut Diifr\.atunji 12

Gtiorijf I

. Ac,

.. ,. ij
.. .. fl

UM «f titf

NORTH SEA,

^iUi I'inM )i' l/Uo lUrbourii, VuiwB, &a With a Bwk of Dir«ctionii ,. .,080

NORTH SEA,

bo *A-^.w t'lutrt. lj>it ituMudiiig Drt)ntheiin aud u tvoutinuAtion to Iceund. With

K Hock of l)ire<.t,i II'* .. .. .. ., .. .. ,. , . 10

SOUTHERN FART OF THE NORTH SEA,

owing th»i K(i«t'>rn C^ftsil of Kfi>»l»nJ, fmm th« Down* ?.«> Wlvitliv ; nxi\\ the
(<)«*t of ^.tiT'^Mi, Iroiii LVLaiii to thn liivnr Klh«, Ac. With I'iUnit. and a
Ho«k yf DiroctivUJ , ,, . , 18

COASTS OF ENGLAND, HOLLAND, Ac,

urn tin; DowQi to Whitby and f.'a[i« Orianeii to tho Texel ; r.nd a PLiu of the

fipmiflo Hftnk». Wuh •, Book .f I>ir-itinris 080

COASTS OF HOLLAND AND GERMANY,

;« ■«>ri Uiti-nd Hnd th4 lu». r Ue»or ; with rUn-.. With a Book of Dir«>:tioua 9

JADE, WE8ER. AND ELBE RIV.ER8.

fitb 4 l':au of ilol^uiaud Binhl. With a Book of UU rtiona ., .. .,050

ABRIDGED CATALOG UE OF CHARTS.

71. THE COASTS OF GERMANY AND DENMARK.

U(<lg''>Un'l Biifht t.1 'Iho Sk«w !'i> iit nn^l th" N.in< • ( 'S rmny , with an ciilirinHi
FUn of th« antr«nr«ii to the Ja'to, Wimmt, nnd Kibe liivon. On tw., i^,^
•hp«t«. With* lUxik of I>iri rtiona .. .. .,

71* THE COASTS OF OERMANT AND DENMARK,

H»'l|foUnil Ili^ht to tho Skaw, Jkr. On oi\e »h«ot .\n«i » h»lf

72. THE COASTS AND SANDBANKS OF FRANCE. BELGIUM. AND

THE NETHERLAIIDS.

Fnim the KiT-r St>ino i<i the IVxol, and the! P'njjlinh Ooiwit from Bonhy |{*.| to
M»r(f»te; with I'Unt of tho H*rb<»iini, *c. With n Itook "f Dirwiioii

72.* The CoMts of Fruoe, Belgium, &c.,

Dippr* to the T<'«i'! part t>f th.^ prooorluijf ('h*rt; with PUtu of tho Hiulmun
With t nvK>k of liiiiKtion* , . .. ,, .. ,. .,

73. The ComU of France, Belgiam, Ao.,

FVxin Boulofn« to the Teiel ((>»rt of No. 'D. With % Book of Utractioni

«iii

OUl

81 THE 8KA0ER-RAK OR SLEEVE.

On ( no MX"' nheet .. .. .. .. •• ., ,, ... ( ) J

88 THE KATTEGAT, the Sound, and the Belu,

From tht Sunrer* i)f th» nntiich Mtd Swm]>«h (iovemntaiita ; wilh I'Utu ii< iji»

H«r>>-'nn>, ic. With « Hi'nk of |)ir«ctiotui .. .. .. , |i)||

83. THE SOUND and Danith Grounds,

On » UrjfB •^«l<". with « rUn of Kliinors 1 1;

84. THE BALTIC SEA (Southern Part),

ComjirmitiK tho I'niiwi.iTi »ti,i Ku-»isn ConU J>olw<'n Roatock and Sl<Mn rt, vei
\\uitf of pcnniHrk anii hwMen betwe«'n (Jijvla^-r il<'a<t «n I tho Smn.l. kA
thrnr(< t'> O'.Atul and iiottUnii : with i'lana uf tho Harbour*, Ike. With i
Book of IHrw-tiona ., ,. ,. ,. ,, I3l|

15. THE BALTIC SEA (Northern Part),

Comprii'imt tho Swinluh <'i>"»t, from K-ilnmr S'mnd to th« SorrUnd 'Tunwl.
G'^ttlaiid. thnt <'f I'ruMiA and Uii»au from WinJau, (tulf of liii^i, t>i Osi
entmnro «i thf (iiilf uf Kiulmd , with i'iiu)* of the LUibour*, kf. W * .'. t
B<«>k <.f IhnylioiM ,. ,, ,. .. .. ,. ., ., ., jj

THE BALTIC SEA,

t>n tw.i Ut«o ahxtn. with numeroiia PUniof Harboura, Viewtof I^Qd, ftc. Wii

a B'>ok (>( Dir-

•tumii

t I

87. THE GULF OF FINLAND.

Uoiiuirn with th<< pruofdiug Chart of the IfctlUc, tnrltidins^ I'Uuis.
of IMiwcttona . .

With » Ik.*

Oil

88. THE COASTS OF WESTERN EUROPE.

iivtwiHiit th<t llr:tiih laland* aiul (.itbii-sikHr, wiUi thn (Toairt of Africa to M irof'X.
ini'ludinif M*diih*. With l'Un» <>( the tiarlxjur*, Ac Ou ihr»^ .u:x
>h«>t«. With a It^-ik of !»in«ti..iw ., tSl

89. THE COASTS OF WESTERN EUROPE.

lUlw.Mn the S)iill.ii\.t Ul.ii i» and liibrallar, and tb«)iu-« U> Mogo-lor. IV »t«\«
ihiirt. Ho. »», iit< tidtd to th* northward. On four th> et*. With UirciKw* U"

92 THE BAT OF BISCAY,

With riaiu of th- Harb.nir* Vtflwa, »c. W ih a B'Hik of I>ir«ct>Ofu ,. .. I "I

93. THK COASTS OF SPAIN. PORTUGAL. AND AFRICA,

From M S'tMuitMit t" I iiiH iiiaiicu North Ujr Juim raaui Witli ri«Mi»i
Vt«w». Wilh a UsM>k «.<! L>irw.tMNU (M

PUBLISHED BY R. U, LAURIE.

THE MEDITEERANEAN SEA, & »• d.

k tvn<T\\ (hint, iiirluaiD^ a iHirticm of tho BLick Spa, tho Bay of Biscay, Coa»t«
of Spmn, P<irtiig;»l. *» • "ith i'Un« of the Uiurbour*. On three Urge nhueti.
With u Book oi Oin-ctiotiH

THE MEDITERRANEAN 8EA (WeBtern Part),

B.iwicii tne Slriiit if UibnlUir, and MalU, and SiciSy ; with Plana of the Uar-
!i.i«rs *c. On thrf« larffi! nhuoUi. With a Book of Dixoction* .. ,.

THE MEDITERRANEAN SEA (Eastern Part),

Bitwi' II Sciiv anJ Malta, un the West, to tkjrnitantinoplo and Alex indria, Ac
Willi ri int. Hiifig a continuation uniform with No. 98. On thrw Urge ihoct*.
With .1 Hixik ol Dirrrtions

\. THE GRECIAN ARCHIPELAGO. Ac.

IixliKliiiK tt.u lotuoji Islan.ii; ani rian». With a Book of Directions ., ..

BLACK SEA (Weitern Part),

ISflween Ciiii^tnniinwple, OdcMi;*, and Sebaatoiwl ; with Plana of the Uarbours,

Ac. With a 15<«jk of Direction* .,010

BLACK SEA (Eastern Part),

l)n two I'll'! t.i , with Plan* of tho Uarl)our», Ac. With a Book of Direetiona ,. •

The Sea of Azov,

A siiigliihiot of No. 103; with riatw of the HarUoure, Ac 4

I. THE AZORES. OR WESTERN ISLANDS.

Wiih 1 ri.n iif St. Mirha-l's. aJid Virw^ With ,^ Book of Direction* ., ..

THE AZORES, Madeira, and Canary Islands,

With jxirt of thrt Coaata of PortiijfjiJ and Africa, (r<nii fho Biirlincru to Cnpe
li .jadtir; with Plan* of the llarbcmrs, &c. With a Book of Diructioaa

THE CANARY ISLANDS, with Madeira. 4c.,

Wth rim- i f th liarb >iin, \'i"w», 4c. Witii a Book of DirMtioM ., ..090

THE CAPE VERDE ISLANDS.

Wi'.h Viewj and Directions .. ., ,, ,, ,, ,.030

THE BERMUDAS. OR SOMERS' ISLANDS,

With I'lan' and a gttnprai Panoranui View. With a Book of Direetiona ..050

, THE ISLAND AND BANKS OF NEWFOUNDLAND,

Ami tiiH I v«t«u Ix'twrin ll'ii.- lali' -uid lio-ton, C'*pe C'<.Hi, 4c, uirluding tho Oulf

and UiTiT of St. liiwrenre. With a Sailing Directory .. .. . . 13

THE GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE.

At.i t ic lir, t-iii laian i. On a iargo iCiUo. With Plans of the Uarbours, 4c.

Wuh a H "k of DiriM:ti'ins ., .. ,. ..OIO

THE RIVER ST, LAWRENCE.

Kr Ki At: -ii t-. .M \.U'«.\ . <M!i. I'i.irii of the Harbouri, Viawa, *c. On three

UrjfH >h.'ot». With a Book 'jf Diiwti'tna .. .. 12

THE SOUTH-EAST COASTS OF BRITISH AMERICA,

Ik'x.ii I'.C" Itrct' ti Uland an 1 tKo Hay ..f Fuiidy, .^n I th. lu;.- to Boston and

I :tl,«. ('...1. Willi Pians of the Uar»>..uri, Ar With a H.xik of Dirwlion» .. 10 •

THE EASTERN COASTS OF THE UNITED STATES,

H.iwMii lio<i!()« and Mavan/i. and the MiMi«i;ppi , with Plaiuiuf tho Uarboura, 4o.

I In five nhi-eta With ■» ll....k of Dii«)oliau« 16

BOSTON TO CHARLESTON.

I "n thri>' (th.it*. With a Uuok of Direetiona 10 4

CHARLESTON TO HAVANA and the Mississippi,
Uii iwu »h(.-«JtJi. Wiin a liwk of Ditectioaa 7 9

AumixiKD vAiALocrE 0/ t'liAun.

133. THE WEST INDIES AND THE GULF OF MEXICO. j.^,.

('oni"rti(t<^il \>\ A I • Kivi(i.»v, K.U ti.S . -howjntr (!ii> \S n ilt.iii i I'lim-nti Wiii
rUnn of flu lli\r>«>i!r«. &r. On four •.tict'ts. With a Ikvok '.( binvtom ou

138. THE WINDWARD AND GULF PASSAOLS, ' f^^

Coiiijirvhinlng IIm' N.ivitrnlion oi t.l\i' \\'e-i In-iit"*. fmm I'nHo l\ico Wv.«)i^. iit

t>n « InrtT" •(«!.> : with I'l.iim On ihr.'^' nhnt*. With u I ' "k i/( Uincu«(u lUi irl

137 THE CARIBBEE AND WEST INDIA ISLANDS, | ^

tVi in i'rini U I t<< 1' rt4i Uiro imlnsivn. wi((> thi> ('m«hI nf the Sp*r,i>- j|„,
ti>biic<' to 1a Oimrn* Also riftiin if Ihe nai)M>«r«, kc. (in four jivtjj,
Bv JoH!« I'lUPT. Wich i» Book of I)iroct<«u» ..

143 JAMAICA.

A (j.ri.nil t"h*rt, W'lh INhIio Hank imi K.»)-f, Moniiil Kny*. ^i- l)noMi)iM| g ni t^i
O;, wi;h FiMiiic<«>Ti ri.-jnn i ( the llit^">iir", \i- < hi t»u I.Trjfc ih'oU ., ., J | I '

164. THE COAST AND RIVERS OF GUAYANA.

lli'lwi'.'ii ih<> <'.rrnl)ii mill (>-." I'omarit'n; incJu>li>ij{ the (tiTliCf, IVtsfiwi,
W»- (uiU., vtr On t* sl.rt^U

165. THE COAST OF BRASIL,

A Uern^nd '')i?itt, frrim ttui llivcr r*m to Hnciii'^ Ayrr", with I'lnrn i(il»H«.

bourt. '1 hr»<- UrgK sheoU. With » DirutUiry, hy A. («. FiNinur, KhArjl. (]|)

I'i

♦.nil \%M

168. THE RED SEA, f

Si.owiiii,' lii. Nrt» ,■ ai'T. ?'»'tw.'<!i Port ^^id nnrl 8nff. ami th»?i«« tn Adft ffrii

Tw. iity-iine 1', .!;s of ih" IV-tln, Anvhorn^;!'.*, A." I'.yA.ti Ksm>hi, K K,(i,\ tU t

167 THE GULF OF ADEN,

Stt<j»iiig Uir Ar li'iari •.■li Atru^m ("'(tkcU, Ix'twotn Knriysn Mi.r \in l!»j «ij
Vmi* H«fuii, to lh< Su-,>it« ()! Uit.-i!.M;(iiil.-ti, Wilh'l'Uus u.' i\\' IhtWfk
A. I.' \ (i ! :s!.i AT, F K i. s M )

168. THE ARABIAN SEA ;Northern Coasts .

IWlw. (ti ll... Kuri);»n Mnrivnii Isl »:i 1" .mi li.rr.l.iiv. *r. \V'\\)\ i'hMsflii

n.rUtir* !'!'>i..; 1 by A. (1. FlMI'l.AT, F U.OitK -.'»»♦

169. SOUTHERN INDIA. '" ^

H. t»<^n VuiK- ri.i hdJ i'cnt Iijvy. induhnv' Cnylnn. With I'Un* of the Hit-

?^.iini, \-(-. rr..j<<!i<.ny A. «i ttsM.,vv, F.li.U..S ., 4 M

170 BAY OF BENGAL .Western Part), » :

(VrUn t'> r«!calU WitJi i'ituu 1 1' Ui.; il.irboar*, Ac. On thft* Urgi? »h«U.
' rrj.fi.sn.y A O Pi^M-^T, K U (> S 810 «

171 BAY OF BENGAL :Ea8t«x-n Fart , ■

Ih. .'^uiiil.nmi :.» i.^ '.Sm Sti.iit t.l .\r!;.v\a. With TUtw of tho iiwlwUM, tc.

I'r.j.. t„l by A (t, FiMX A*, F IHi.S tW'

.N H All Ihr •tiofn Chwtn ivte ..« the iwiiu- »(ftl' ^,f t ii'nhi«to 1'.

'it

IJ .mvi

180 THE COAST OF CHINA.

Fruo. I'^ntun t'. Nuikiiig. With VUnt, of the U*)rKiiu», *c. On lh.-»t »i:»)U .. 5 li J

195 THE SOUTH FASTERN COASTS OF AUSTRALIA.

ii«.lv«.ti, M'.riu li Ht.y all.. Uj»i'fli.;utv>i tiM.iuj.. Wu,*. I'iiun 'f U:>- H»il«lf, *:.
Co lw>j »h<>etii

SCO. CALIFORNIA AND OREGON.

ibe CuMlt In?:**?" IV'iiit t.Vui. -jAi.ii and \>m Fuc« Slrkit. Wilh I'Un*

0» I

» H

I 1|!