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Teua lea autre* exemplalraa originaux sont fllm*s an commandant par ia premlAre page qui comporte une empreinte d'impreaaion ou d'liluatration at w terminant par la dernMre page qui comporte une telle empreinte. Un dee symboles suivanta apparaftra sur la demMre image de cheque microfiche, selon le naa: h symbole — ^ signifie "A SUiVRE". le symbole V signifie "FIN". Las cartea. planchea. tableaux, etc.. peuvent fttre nimU A dee taux da .Muction diff Grants. Lorsque le document est trop grand pour %tf reproduit en un simiI cllch*. il eat film* t partir de I'angle sup4rieur gauche, de gauche 4 droita. at de haut en baa, en prenant le nombre d'Imeges nAceaaalre. Lcs diagrammes suivants iiluatrent ia mAthoda. 1 6 t 'iS%l ^ Tl AN •m iPiiP mmmmmmmtig^ Xf^ TOPOGRAPHICAL . M TO!»OGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION or THE - ^ STATE OF OHIO. 1 HE first purchase of land in the State of Ohio, after the Indian title was extinguished, was made by the Ohio company. On the 2rth of November, 1787^ Congress made and executed a contract with the agents of the Oliio company for the sab of one million and an half of acres, at the price of one million of dollars, to be paid for in final settlement securities.- This tract was bounded on the east by a line called the seventh range which had been previously run ; southerly on the Ohio river ; westerly on the seventeenth range of townships, and to extend so far north, that a line running east to the first boundary, should contain, exclusive of the reservation?, the quantity of land contracted for. The first regular settlement of this State commenced in the year 1789. A party of about sixty men from New-England, under the super- intendence of General Rufus Putnam, and hired and paid by the company, arrived at the a mouth of the Muskingum on the Tth of April, and immediately began to clear the land on the eastern side of the river. In the month of Au- gust, eight families had arrived, who inhabited the temporary buildings, f rected for their ac- commodp.tion, on thatp^.easent and commanding situation where the berutiful and thriving town of Marietta now stands. In the course of the autumn more arrived, so that,, at the beginaing of June, 1 790, there were twenty families on the ground. * It was the intention of this company, amon^^ whom were many of the officers of the revolu- tionary ari'ny, to have mad^ a rapid settlement, but the Indians beginnfng to commit depreda- tions, checked the emigration from the Atlantic States. In the winter of 1791, several persons in the out settlements were killed, and others ta- ken prisoners. The people were obliged to erect posts of defence at Bellepre and at Wolf Creek. Blarietta was strongly stockaded, and the inhab- itants lived in a garrison state, until after the victory gained by General Wayne, on the 20th of August, 1794. Soon after the Ohio company had made this purchase, another contract was made with Con- gress by Col. John C. Symmes, for a tract of land supposed to contain about one million of acres, lying within the following limits : begin- ning at the mouth of the Great Miami river, and thence running up the Ohio to the mouth of the 9 Little Miami river ; thcncMp the main stream of the Little Miami to the place where a due west line, to be continued from the western termination of the northern boundary line of the grant made to the Ohio company, shall intersect the said Little Miami river; thence due west, continuing the said western line to the Great Miami river; thence down the Great Miami to the place of begmning. Settlements commenced in the tutumn of 1789, on this tract, under the direction of Co!. Symmes, principally by emigrations iVom the State of New Jersey. But the settlers here were subjected to embarrassment similar to those of the Ohio company, in consequence of the Indian war. The settlement made little progress until after the conquest of General Wayne, and the treaty with the Indians, in the succeeding year. Not long after the commencement of these setriements, another of considerable magnitude was begun, on a tract of land, called the Con- necticut Reservation, situated on the northeast corner of the State, and bounded east by the Pennsylvania line,on the north by lake Erie, and extending westward as far as Sandusky lake. These settlers came principally from the State of Connecticut. .These were the first settlements undertaken* on a large scale, within the limits of the State to of Ohio, but made little progress until after the close of the Indian war. Another very considerable settlement com- menced, in 1796, on a tract of land, called the Virginia Reservation, situated between the Scioto and Li tie Miami rivers. This land was located by army warrants, granted originally to the troops of the Virginia line of the revolution- ary army. A part of the settlers were from Virginia, but far the greatest number from the State cf Kentucky. The town of Chillicothe was began in the autumn of this year (1796), and so rapid was the increase of inhabitants that It was mkde an incorporate town in about fivj years. The Territorial Assembly of the rep- rescntatives of the people convened in this town for several years, and it continufed the seat of government until 1809, when, by act of As- sembly, it was moved to Zanesvilie on the river Muskingum. On the 13th of April, 1802, the people were authorized, by an act of Congress, to form a constitution and State government, and were accordingly admitted intonhe Union upon the same footing with the original States. By the same act, the boundaries of the Sti.ce were es- tablished on the following lines, viz. " Begin- ning on the east by the Pennsylvania line ; on the south, by the Ohio river to the mouth of the Gi^at Miami river ; on the west by a line drawn due north from the mouth of tb** n~-»«- iviu, ■•- vj i ;. cj ; «.T&:iii;i , 11 and on the north by an east and west line drawn through the southerlyextrcmes of lake Michigan, running east, after intersecting the due north line aforesaid, from the north of the Great Miami, until it shall intersect lake Erie, or the territorial line, and thence with the same through lake Erie, to the Pennsylvania line . aforesaid." The number of inhabitants, since the peace with the Indians, in 1795, has been rapidly increasing. In 1803, it appeared that there were 15,314 white males of 21 years of age and upwards. Calculating on this data, it has been supposed, that the whole number of inhabitants at that time coujd not be less than 76,000. It has been presumed that the emigrants coming mto the Stat« annually, for several years, were about 12,000. The embarrassment, however, occasioned by the embargo, operated as a very serious check on the acquisition of inhabitants fron. the other States, as well as from foreign nations. The present number within the State cannot with much certainty be ascertained! By a late estimation, from the probable natural mcrease, and the additions hy emigration, the population is stated, in round numbers, to be 200,000. The accuracy of this estimation wiU soon be decided by the next census.* Having traversed a large portion of the State in atvcral directions, it will be attempted to give a «I sJciSlT""' "^^^ '"'" ^®^^' "^^ ^''"'^' of inhabitant. 1 12 cursory description of the face of the countrj-, soils, ^nd the natural and cultivated productions, beginning at the eastern boundary. Near the mouth of the Little Beaver Creek the boundary line between the States of Pennsyl- vania and Ohio, meets the Ohio river, 42 miles below Pittsburgh. Near the creek are some rich bottoms or intervals, but the land back rises into high hills ; on some of them is a good soil and capable of cultivation. There are some handsome farnis, producing wheat, rye, barley, oats, flax, hemp and Indian com. Not far from the mouthof the Little Beaver, a spring has been found, said to rise from the bottom of the iver, from which issues an oil which is highly in- , flammable, and is called Seneca oil. It resem- ' bles Barbadoes tar, and is used as a remedy for rheumatic pains. People who have travelled ^ for several days on foot, have found much relief by rubbing this oil over their joints. The land from the Little Beaver to the Muskingum, on the Ohio, ascends into high hills, some of them terminating in elevated peaks, but there are frequently, large rich val- lies that intervene, at the base of the hills. Towaids the Muskingum the summits of the hills become more broad and flee^ Some of them are free of rocks, andjhaving a rich soil admit of cultivation. The greater part of these hills may be profitably improved for orchards and grazing of sheep and cattle. As far as IS Wheeling and Grave Creek they abound with coals, and generally of a good quality. In many of these hills are quarries of excellent free stone, capable of a good poUsh, and make beautiful walls in buildings. Some of these stones, when first taken out of the ground, are so soft that they can be worked into various forms with carpenter's tools. On the side of a hill above SteubenviUe, it is said, there is a spot of ground, that when covered with a considera- ble depth of snow, a smoke is seen to rise from It, as if it were heated by a subterranean fire And that near the base of the same hill, if an hot sun succeeds a shower of rain, an excellent white, fine salt may be collected from the sur face of the rocks. Not far from Georgetown 38 miles below Pittsburgh, it is said, a ffold nnne has lately been discovered. A specimen It IS reported, has been tried by a silver-smith at Pittsburgh, who declared it to be pure jrold without alloy. The lump had the appearance 6^ being found m running water. The base of some of the hills extends to the bank of the river, others recede leaving wide bottoms of a very rich and deep soi!. Vhen the hills approach the river on one side, thlv usually recede from it, on the other, si tZ there are wide bottoms, alternately, on S sides the river. Much of the soil ia these bof toms, especially the first, ffor there =.,- J! °'; three bottoms rising one above the o'the;; W 14 ing a sort of glacis) has been found as deep as the bed of the river. The hills are clothed with a thick forest of trees, consisting of white, red and black oak, hickory, ash, chestnut, poplar, sassafras, dogwood, and the grape vine. The bottoms are covered with a heavy growth. The largest trees are button-wood, called here sycamore, elm, black walnut, tulip tree, and beach. The smaller trees consist of hickory. White walnut or butter-nut, locust, honey-locust, buck eye, mulberry, sugar-maple, cherry tree, crab-apple tree, plumb tree, papaw, and willow. The grape vine abounds on the bottoms, and grows to a prodigious size, ascending to the tops of the Icltiest trees. The passenger, glid- ing down the river in the summer, is amused and delighted with'the appearance of these vines on the upper branches and tops of the trees, forming large canopies, festoons, arbours] grottoes, with numerous other fantastic figures.' Some of the trunks of these vines are of a size whicti will admit them to be split into four rails for fence. The sugar-maple is a tree of immense value to the people of this State. It ought to be a first object with every man, when he begins to cultivate his land, as much as possible, to pre- serve these trees. Each tree, from eighteen to twenty inches in diameter, will yield four pounds of sugar every season. The process of making is ,o tap the tree with an auger, drive 15 into die hole a wooden tube, and place a trough under it to receive the water. Large ketUes being placed in the.most convenient situation among the trees, and a fire made under them, the water is brought in buckets, where it is mod-, erafely boiled, until it comes to a consistency which scarcely admits of any longer stirring with a stick made for that purpose. It is then removed from the kettle, and is still constantly stirred until it is cold. As it cools it granulates and becomes bright and dry. The grain of this sugar, made at the beginning of the season, very much resembles the sugar made in Louisi- ana from the sugar cane, and not inferior to the best Musquevado. The quality of the sugar depends much on care and cleanliness in making of it. The season for making, and the time it continues, varies according to the state of the weather. It generally commences in February and continues about six weeks. When the trees are at a distance from the house, a camp is formed in a central place among the trees, and is called the sugar camp. The whole f^imily sometimes resorts to this camp, and women and children assist in making the sugar. In camps consisting of one hundred and fifty to two hundred trees, have been made from five hundred to a thousand pounds of sugar, in one season. An average price of the sugar may be about ten cents ner nound. S.,o-=>.. Koo u s:iu WwVtJ made late in autumn, after frosts or falls of snow, but it depends on the weather. 16 The land back from the Ohio Is best for farms. The hills diminish in height and size, and though interspersed with ridges and swel- ling hills, a large portion of the ground is suffi. Gicntly level for all the purposes of cultivatioiu Much of the land on hills and ridges is arable, and admits of easy tillage, having a rich and deep soil ; and most of the ridgy and rough lands may be made useful for grazing and orchards. From the eastern boundary to the river Scioto, the same growth of trees and shrubs which have been mentioned generally prevail ; although the different kinds grow more plentifully on some lands, than they do on others, and in several places there are consider- able growths of pine, in the tract of land called the seven ranges there are some hills and ridges "which are high and form steep precipices. In this kind of land the soil is thin, and growth small, consisting of oak and hickory, the sum- mits of the hills tufted with pine. On the seven ranges there are few inhabitants, except- ing near the Ohio. These people are princi- pally emigrants from Pennsylvania. The great road from Cumberland on the Potomac river, commonly called the United States road, crosses the Ohio at Wheeling, where there is a distributing post-office, that receives and despatches the mail once a week to the westward, and twice a week to the eastward. Where this road leaves the Ohio it takes a IT westerly direction, and passes through the State of Ohio to Limestone, in Kentucky. This road is the great thorough fare of people, in which there is incessant travelling from different parts to the Atlantic States, and from these States into the western country. The land through which the road passes from the Ohio to Zanesville, on the Muskingum, is uneven, but rich, pretty thickly settled and well cultivated. There are four thriving villages. St. Clairsville is the largest, containing a number of handsome houses and several stores of goods. It is the principal town in the county of Belmont. Passing down the Ohio from Wheeling to Muskingum, there are only scattering settle- ments on the rich lands near the river. The town of Marietta, situated at the conflu- ence of the Muskingum with the Ohio, has greatly increased in population and wealth. Before the settlement commenced, the ground on the eastern side of the Muskingum was laid out m the form of a city, containing one thou- sand lots of 90 feet front and 180 feet rear. The squares were oblong, separated by spacious streets, which intersect at right angles. A large square was reserved for a market, and several others, m different parts of the city, for public uses, or pleasure ground. There are now, on the city ground, more than one hundred houses and about one sixth part are built with brlct ana stone. Many fif the houses are large and 2"^ ^ 18 built iu a handsome style. The form in which the town is built, adds much to its elegance, and the gentle rising of the city ground back from the Ohio, affords an extended and delightful prospect of the rivers and distant hills, which is greatly heightened and enlivened by the ship^ ping and various kinds of water craft floating on the streams. A part of the town is built on the opposite side of the Muskingum, and the houses not inferior in elegance to those on the city ground. Marietta is the seat of justice for the county of Washington, and has a court-house and jail. There are two religious societies ; the largest is Congregational, who have erected a hand- some meeting-house. It has an academy, which is also improved as a house for public worship. Within the area of the ground laid out for a city, at the northeast part of it, are a number of the ancient works so frequently found in the western country. They consist principally of two large oblong squares and an elevated mound, in the form of a cone. The largest square contains forty acres, and the smallest twenty. They are enclosed by walls or ram- parts of earth, without any ditches, from six to ten feet in height, and about thirty feet in breadth at the base, with twelve openings, or gate- ways, at regular distances from each other. _ ..-„^, „^ .^..5; ««jjiC3 yj ine iargcst square 19 nearest the Muskingum, is the appearance of the walls of a covert way, leading towards the river. The highest part of the remains of these walls is twenty-one feet, and forty feet in breadth at the base. The mound of earth, in form of a sugar-loaf, is thirty feet in height, and the base 115 feet in diameter. It is situ- ated at a litde distance from the smallest square. These works were included in public square* and have been carefully preserved ; but a small opening has been made in the conic mound and found to contain human bones. Although these ancient works fill the beholder with astonish- ^ment, others have been discovered of far greater magnitude. On a branch of the Muskingum, about ninety miles from Marietta, there are these ancient works extending about two miles in length, and the ramparts and mounds of a much greater height than those found here. Vestiges of ancient works, of differ-.nt forms and sizes, and at small distances, are to be found over the whole State, and in many other parts of the western country. Marietta is favourably situated for commerce and manufactories. The depth and gentle mo- tion of the water, in the mouth of the Mus- kingum, and the cheapness of excellent ship- timber, render this one of the best places for ship-building on the Ohio river. A number of large ships and brigs were built in a short time, and the employment was rapidly progressing 30 until a stop was put to it by .he c.nbargo. Three rope « ,Iks, of nearly a thousand feet iu length were erected, and the numerous me- chan.c branches, connected with the highly im- portant employment of ship-building were established. The Muslino..,™ r u- i. ;„ ,•„ r J- , *""""S"™ (which means, m tne Indian language m. Eye) is of immense importance to this town. The current is mod- erate, rarely overflowing its banks, and may be navigated with keel boats and other craft, dur- fH r""™'"' "'J^'"' "' Z'-e^ille, sixty miles from Marietta. There are falls, but happily formed for erecting water works of every de- Bcription. . Above the falls the river is agam navigab e, no, only i„ the main stream, but many of the numerous branches which ^ean- de. through a rich and level countiy in their way to the river. The largest branch i. the Tuskarawa, which, with only a portage of seven m.les and an half, communicates with the Cayahoga river, emptying into lake Erie. The immense quantity of produce which this fertile tract of country is capable of yielding for market, and the easy transportation, cannot fail of ren- ' dering Marietta a convenient place of sale or deposit, from whence, by the ships built here. It may be sent abroad. Materials for many different manufactories may be procured here wuh so much facility, and from the well known "Pint of industry and enterprise prevailine among the people, there can be nn A.,L „f .u.> 21 entablishment in process of time. A bank was established here in i80f, with a deposit of an 100,000 dollars, from which essential benefits have been derived. There is a post-office, two printing offices, and two weekly papers. Ascending the Muskingum from Marietta, at the distance of five miles, is Captain Devol's ship.yard, where a number of large vessels have been built, and one of them more than 200 tons. The workmanship and timber of these vessels are said not to be inferior to any that have been built in the United States. Their frames were black walnut, which is said to be as durable as the live oak and is much lighter. The plank of these vessels are said to be of an unusual length and firmness. The forests here abound with the best of timber, such as white oak, black walnut and locust, and the prodigious height and size of the trees, admit of the selection of any dimensions which can be wanted. Ex- cellent masts of yellow pine are easily procured. Iron-ore is found, in places, in almost every part of the State, and a sufficiency of bar iron can be obtained without difficulty. But the want of a. greater number of furnaces and forges, keeps up the price higher than it otherwise would be. As much tar as can be wanted is brought down the Alleghany river. The people can, with ease, raise as much hemp and flax as would be suf- ficient to SUDdIv the whriU «f ♦K^ TT_:._ J c. 11." — ,, .._s^ vs 4„^ ^^jj^jj-^ ijtates* f are . ch, th.ckly settled and well cultivated. Ac """• »"'' 'wenty. three miles, by „«,., :, ,k, purchase, the bottom lands are narrow, and the Wis are „.a„y of them steep, tufted ;ith pine for about thirty miles. They then begin to "e cede from the river anri hi,. wirlth .„ 7 ;. bottoms mcrease in w;dth,oZanesv,lle; at the distance of a few miles west of the river .h. f <• , swelling Kii • ^ "" °'^"'« """'ry is swellmg h,Us, wuh a rich soil, and the growth prmcipaHy beach and oak. ^ vem of coal has been found crossing the bed of the river, remarkable for its nuritv Th • of th,. „„^i u . ""^ '" purity. 1 he pieces ' '^\'°^^ •>"•« the appearance of v,rnish somewhat resembling japan, and when laid on tts"\:nH':''"^'""'^''^°''"«'>.-'"^'>co„? witho-t rf " M°"""'"' ''>' "Proration, scarceu, ^t rT'' ""^"' "■«• "en.sit, so d at M ^ """'■■ ""^ =•'""• <^'°»' has bee. sold at Marietta at about three cents the ...he. and IS much used by the inhabitants for fuel „ preference ,o wood, when wood can be pu" chased at one dollar per cord. Descending the Ohio, at the distance of ,en tifui vll • -^^"""^ ^^ Bellepre. This beau- "rui Milage IS sprpt-ai «,:!„» • 1 , 5 „. .„»v,T ,n icngih, extending 23 (0 the Little Hockhocking river. 'X'I.e people are principally farmers. The good management and excellent culture of their farms has been much admired. An early attention was paid to raismg different kinds of fruit trees. Orch •Tds of apple trees of large extent have been planted, which are now become extremely pro- ductive. The fruit is of various kind, and of the best flavour. Prodigious quantities of cider IS made, and when the fruit is properly collected and carefully made, the liquor is of the first quality. They have likewise large peach orchards for making peach bra.dy. I„ this part of the State appk trees and all garden /ruit trees thrive surprisingly, and the flavour and of the Atlantic States. The gardens yield all the culmary plants in high perfection. The va- Opposite to Bellepre is the beautiful island tirunfo' ^'- «'^"""''-«- The nam of Lheme, n,'° '"^age in his nefarious scnemes, is well Irnnwn t*!.* , * *^*^" Known. This may render somp tere tmg. The following was written by a T^T."'- Z " '°" '™'" Philadelphia, and published ,„ the Ohio Navigator. ' bant f. t." r ' ' "'*""" — ^" ascending the ^ank froo, the landing, (a quarter of a mile be! 24 . ' low the eastern eiid) we entered at a handsome double gate, with hewn stone square pilasters, a gravel walk, which led us about one hundred and fifty paces to the house, with a meadow on the left, and a shrubbery on the right, separated by a low hedge of privy-sally, through which innumerable -olumbines and various other hardy flowers were displaying themselves to the sun. The house is built of wood, and occupies a square of about fifty-four feet each side, is two stories high, and in just proportion ; it is con- nected with two wings,by a semicircular portico, or corridor running from each front corner. The shrubbei-y well stocked with flowering shrubs, and all the variety of evergreens natural to the climate, as well as several exotics, surrounded the garden, and has gravel walks labyrinth fash- ion winding through it. The garden is not large, but seems to have had every delicacy of fruit, vegetable and flower, which this fine cli- mate and luxurious soil produces. In short Blannerhasset's island is a most charming retreat for any man of fortune fond of retire- ment, and it is a situation^perhaps riot exceeded for beauty in the world. It wants however the variety of mountain, precipice, cataract, distant prospect, &c. which constitute the grand and sublime." From Bellepre to the Great Hockhocking the country is uneven, and some high hills near the Ohio, but the soil is generally good and ths handsome e pilasters, e hundred neadow on , separated ugh which 3US other Ivcs to the i occupies de, is two it is con- ir portico, rner. The J shrubS) ral to the rrounded inth fash- :n is not ;licacy of s line cli- In short :harming f retire- jxceeded ever the t, distant and and ihocking Lills near i and the growth is lage. Excellent farms are made and olTe- : ""t °" '"' ^'^ Hockhoclcings and on their branches where there are large hot- toms, and rich swelling hills. the^'ol' "^^^^l^^^^h^^k-ff thirty miles from the Ohio, are the two college townships granted by Congress to the Ohio company for the en- dow„,ent of a University. Athens, one of end oH: ^- ' '^ '""^'""^ ^^--^ - ^ ZITtu ^^"lements commenced in he never failing springs of excellent water are rnerous . and the soil extremely rich and f^ o ai': '? "' '""'"^- ^" -^ -cor. bu Id n^ I r^"''"'^ ^'^^ granted in 1801. A yoih i;r '"" ^^^^^^^ for the instruction^ youth, who are at present under the care nfl preceptor. The bottom lands on thTs Xr t -ore extensive and of a better qual t^ th :^^^^^^^^^ on the Muskingum. ^ " "*°^® On this river thirty miles from Athens and fi miles beyond the line of the Oh o "" P-chase, are falls commodi u ly 3 ItTfr'"^ kind of water works. The des Jnr Tk ^"^^ "Ine feet, and the stream nvefl lit ^^^^^^^^^ ^^ of the year. Above the falls thl l 1 ^ '""'^^ -des the river, is level and Sh Th T '°^' flatten off into extent'. « 1"^^' ^^^^^ '^^ ^^l^ 3^ ' '11 26 From the great Hockhocking, or the Ohio, to Galhopohs, and from thence^to the mouth of the Scoto nver the land is hilly, clothed with an heavy growth of excellent wood and useful tim- ber, but interspersed with rich bottoms and in- tervals. Receding from the Ohio the hills and ndges dimmish, until the land becomes sufficiently level for all the purposes of culture. Where set tlements have been made in this hilly land, the farms are very productive, and it is considerea as the best land in the State for orcharding On Shade river, ten or twelve miles below the Great Hockhocking, handsome, flourishing settle- ments have commenced. Opposite the mouth of the great Kanhawa is Fairhaven, a small, but beautiful village, most delightfully situated. Three miles below is Golliopolis situated on the high bank of the Ohio. It was began in the year 1/92, and was settled by about five hundred French people, emigrants directly from France who erected about an hundred houses. ' These people, wholly unacquainted with clear ing up forests of heavy timber, after forming handsome gardens, and planting vineyards and orchards, became discouraged. Finding them- selves in hazard by the Indian war, they began to desert the town. Some went down the river about twenty.five miles and settled on donation lands given them by Congress, opposite little Sandy creek, but many of them went down the „j,. .^ ^^-uioiuim. me town has since been on the decline. It is the seat of justice for 2r the county of Gallia. Before these people left Galliopolis they made a considerable quantity of wine, mostly from the native grape. Some of the wine made here, when improved by age, is said to have been of an excellent quality. From Galliopolis to the mouth of the Great Scioto are few settlements, excepting the new French settlement : on a tract of 20,000 acres given by Congress to the original French settlers at Galliopolis. This tract extends eight miles on the Ohio river, and is situated nearly opposite the Little Sandy river. Adjoining this land is a grant of 4000 acres, made to Man. Gervis, who has laid out a town upon it, to which he has giv- en the name of Burrsburgh. Above the mouth of the Great Scioto is the town of Portsmouth an-i below it the town of Alexandria, both of which are favourablv situa- ted for becoming places of much business. The Scioto IS a large and beautiful river. When over- flowed, the waters extend but a small distance from Its natural banks. Both sides are bordered with rich bottoms and a great extent of excellent land for culture. It is navigable for keel boats to a great distance, and for .mall craft to a port- age within four miles of Sundusky lake. Having gone down the Ohio to the Scioto river we will now return to Zanesville, on the Mus- kingum, and on the great road leading from H heehner to LimpQtMn*. i^ v , r, -"- - situated on the east bank of the Mus- ' about eighty-five miles by water from king 28 Marietta. Conirress Jn i^no •his tr..e of land o E^ener; 2?"'^ " «""' °'' Peasation for opening a rarf^rVleLlT Limestone, and estabi;«l,; , vvneclmg to ries over .he Le 1" "h' " ""■""'-"'S fer- . laid out this tIZ , '■°"*'- <^°'- Z»»e and .hee;rw h°^- ^*' P^Sras, was slow, opposite^ he ;l:' fX ;„d : '•''" °' *^ ^'-^ =.nnually increasing. The court h ^^ "' an elegant stvlp Tk ^''^cc scone and m ™ene I n w L Jf "" °' '"= ^.ate govern- expected it wiuTjrl tnt l^ ""'" " '^ 5n this town is a H" f. "?^'"- ^^e post-office -"s areiro^ "Srri:r ^f ferent kinds of "od; ZV't ^'°'" °^ "'f- charges its watfrff I ^""""S Creek dis- cataract formed by a root ZV """'^"' stream a. rl„K. Z./°'\ "'^"="'''»8 ""<>«» the -o- «"eiiC3, ana producine- a fall ^^ J'even and an half ft-e^t «rK-i u ""'^^ng a tail of "*" **=^^' ^h»^e the water above and 29 below appears to be on a perfect level. Besides a grist and saw mill, a furnace has been erected, which was expected to go into operation the last summer. Near the furnace is the appearance of a large quantity of iron-ore, supposed to be of a superiour quality. Coal abounds in this vicinity and can be procured nearly as cheap as at Mari^ etta. On the State road, west of the Muskingum, are rich and moderate swelling hills. On the north- em side of the road they gradually flatten off almost to a level, and are clothed with excellent timber, consisting principally of oak, hickery, beach, black walnut, blue and black ash, mulberry, elm, buckeye, cherry, and gum. The soil is deep and rich. This description of land extends from the head waters of the Muskingum, to the waters of Scioto and Miami's, and northward to Lake Erie with little variation. Only a few large hills and ridges are distributed over a great extent of country. On the State road, 39 miles from ZanesviUe, is the town of New Lancaster. This town was laid out by Col. Zane, in the year 1800, on a delight- ful spot, and has increased with great rapidity. It is built on the east side of the Great Hock- hocking, where the stream is not more than six yards in width, but on rising ground, and where a beautiful prairie or natural meadow, stretches along the bank of the river for several miles, and about half a mile in width. This prairie renders 3* so Setbf "xf "•! *.'"^" "r -"'"S'-V P'e.-.sa„. and house b'iltn P^^'"'P''"'°"t an hundred nouses, built in a vcr. neat manner, with hewn «.mber, and princip,,,y on one stree . UhZZ handsome brick court-house, four store, o good, and four taverns. The town and th, J rnl?:rr''"•'^''^'^^'^^-t^r VIC nity of Lancaster, in Pennsylvania. It is ,he -at of justice for the county of Fairfield. from New-Lancaster to Chilecothe i, thirtv eight miles, and the face of the countl ^' near Lancaster, where are Tt.T Z' "P""« is very much a" conti ued p.aL "Sr "'"^ soil and is badly watered.' The Jowth " u consisting mostly of black and wh te^o^k fnd ' h.ckor,. The soil inclines to clay ith sidered indifferent fo. f ■ . "^ '* *=""■ iiiuincrent tor farramc; land. Or. .i, southern extremity of this glade of land ■nence the chains of hills which e« „d "T Ohio and its branches for sever:;^^ l^ilt' >s very flat and low, and much of it too wet f„, cultivation; but -here the swells are so ^ aot to be overflowed in the winter and .1! .he soil is rich, and produces la ge . mber"^ '"/: the distance of 28 miles from r ' three miles north of th;s;;rro';d:r p'ict"a' plains begin and extend to the Scioto riler Th" are several miles in width, not ent re,; SeT T. ;rs — ■' '""' '-"'" -'--'"'^^'^ - prospect ... raore agreeable. This tract is 31 destitute of trees or shrubs, excepting a few com- pact clusters of trees, surrounded with thick bushes, appearing like scattered islands in a bay. The soil is good, and a fine stream of water passes on the south side. They are said to produce the best wheat raised in the State. There are two small villages on them, containing about 50 houses, and a wind-mill has been erected which grinds all their grain. These plains have been considered as the handsomest tract of land in this part of the country. The land from the Pickawa plains, in a northerly direction, for thirty or forty miles is level, interspersed with wet prairies, nearly to the forks of the Scioto, and thinly set- tled. Near the forks the land is good and thickly settled. In an easterly direction from the forks of the Scioto to the waters of Licking Creek is a largely extended tract of level lands, with some wet prairies but mostly a very rich soil, and is fast settling. At the distance of 38 miles is the town of Granville, built by a number of emigrants principally from Granville in Connecticut, where are thirty houses, and the country well settled around it. East of Granville, about seven or eight miles, is Nework, on the waters of Licking Creek. It contains about 60 houses, a log court house and jail, and a large log Presbyterian meet- ing house. It is the seat of justice for Licking county. This tract of country is well settled as far ease anor,*Au^ T*!.- 1 J r .t • * «c lauu. lacner norta- 32 ward continues level, but i, much of it lo„ , , South of the State road as it »r. Scioto, twemy-eight mile, in '''PJ°'"^^" 'h' action f~m ChifcX and 63 r''^ '"'^ "'" on the Ohio, ai, the G~« Q • " ^^''''opo'ia '»»<• U Hn.;and ctXlraT'-""'''- ^"^ timber. The salt water i! f„ % '' «™** °^ of » stream which Tu i«oT "'''' *' •""'k, called Salt Creek at,h-!i ? ^ *"°'°> ««• " fron, the surct'o'/tt S d"'tr"r^- ^'" « passes over, is prevent!^ f I" ''^'"■' '» .he salt .ater,'b, aH^l ^d r'"f T There are sixteen furnaces, and ^ ;„ "''^- tion, each furnace «r;ii J " '° ^P^''^- -It in 24 hou™ S mid" 7 '" """•=" °^ furnace is to dig a wTren.h • "T""'''"'^ » day, four feet deep at o„l . '". " ^"'^ ?"" "^ other, with a gradL, d ". , '"'' *'" *■«' « «'«= -hich is the iitifiTfir V"' r • ties of thirty gallons each, ^^^. .^'"*^ '«- "e placed i„ ,he trench A fi"f •'' '" '^ "'"' deepest end, and a chimneyts trnXtt" t er, m a manner that will admit Jl«. ?' "*• through the length of the fu nace tT "^ "'""Sh. pumped by horses or mules 1 1 , ' "^'^ '" and then laded into the k t,e. A ^^" "'''"'' " necessary for boiling the w L ATth"" '"* evaporates at the moufh of the f.' '"*'''" "ainsinthekettlesislad J ,/''"' "*"" "" ney. and .he=.\...;! '.''''*'"'°*°«nearthechim. '^'"" "'"= "Sam filled with water 33 « so that the water near the chimney is in a constant state of crystallization. Tallow and Indian meal are used to promote the crystalization. It requires about 600 gallons of water at these works for one bushel of salt. There are no setdera near the salt-works, excepting those concerned in making salt. Chilicothe, an Indian name, signifying town, is situated on the west bank of the Scioto, where the State road crosses the river. In the year 1796, Col. Nathaniel Massie, with eight or ten men,' who accompanied him from Kentucky, explored the wilderness to this spot. They planted and raised Indian com, on a rich 4)rairie, about two miles below the town. In autumn the formed the plan and laid out the town in lots. The next spring they brought out their families and com- menced the setdement. From this small begin- ning has risen up, in about thirteen years, one of the most beautiful towns in the western country. The following description of the Scioto and Chilicothe is from a gentleman who made a tour into the western country, from Philadelphia, in the year 180r,and is taken from the Ohio Navi- gator. "Chilicothe is most beautifully situated on the banks of the Scioto about 45 miles by land, and nearly seventy following the meanders of the nyer from its confluence with the Ohio, which it lOinS betlV'f»i»n Prs»i-o.>^-..^u _ 1 *, lat distance the river has a gentle current all 34 and unimpeded navigation for large keel, and othercraft of fourfee. draught of walr. c'" tmue, navgable for smaller boat, and ba, eauJ .ITrds' i^' ""' '""''"'' """ ""-e the ": toward, ,t, source to the northward irli,lin» SenUy through a natura,, rich. level.aJd fa^^^' ■mprovrng country. The situation of the town i^ on an e^vated and extensive plain of nearly te„ thousand acre, of a, fine a soil as any i„ AmericT partly .„ cultivation, end partly covered ^h ,' by *e s"l "'h'.""""" -"'y --undid oy tlie Scioto, which turning suddenlv to .h. northeast from it, generally',outhe ly'coU/ leave, the, town to the aouthward of it.'^ndren Water street which runs about east bv north parallel to the Scioto, is half a mile long, and co- tain, nmety house,. It i, 34 foet widefnd wouTd 'he bi r:::' r "" •"' "'- '""'^ -" '- the cemrlof ? Tk"'" *''* '"''''"^' "'"•«'« i-'o tne centre of it. There is now a lottery on foot urhr """^y^— ""S the bank agLst any further encroachment, of the river. Mai„ ,,,Z paralle to water ,treet, one hundred feet wid ,, > market ,treet. which crosses both at ri J L gle,, and in which is the market house, a „ea bnck b„,Hing, eighty foet long. The court h use in the same ,treet. i, neatly built of free store on an area of 45 i>y 42 feet, with a ,em cir ll r Z1T 'V: ""• '" "•'■'=•' » »"» ''- "" o _ e. . „„ -wiiigunai Dciiry rising from life «he foof, painted white with green lettices, which is an ornament to the town, as is the small plain belfry of the Presbyterian meeting house, a hand- some brick building in main street ; in which street also is a small brick Methodist meeting house. These are the only places of public wor- ship in the town, if I except the court house which is used occasionally by the Episcopalians and other sects. " The whole number <* dwelling houses, as I counted them, is two hundi J ai. d two, besides four brick, and a few framed ones now building. I reckoned only six taverns with signs, which small proportion of houses of that description speaks volumes in favour of the place. There are fourteen stores, a post-office, and two printing offices, which each issues a Gazette weekly. " The soil of the town being of a gravelly kind, the streets are generally clean. The houses are of free stoi>e, brick or timber clapboarded, the first of which is got in the neighbourhood, is of a whitish brown colour, and excellent for building. They are mostly very good, and are well painted. On the whole, I think Chilicothe is not exceded in beauty of plan, situation, or appearance, by any town I have seen in the western part of the Uni- ted States. " There is here a remarkable Indian monu- ment in Mr. Winship's garden in the very heart of the town. Like that at Ornv^ Cr-^^x. u : j at the base, about seventy or eighty feet diame- 36 ter but differs from it by being round instead of flat on Ae top, which has an elevation of about thirty feet perpendicular from the level of the been perforated by the proprietor, nothing has mount, havmg been bur. ows or cemetries. They ta^fc of havmg i, levelled, a, it projects a little into .^arket street, but I think it a pity to destroy any of the very few vestiges of Aboriginal popu^ buon wh,ch this count.y presents to the curious and inquisitive traveller. " From a steep hill about three hundred feet perpendicular height, just outside the western ex- tremity of the town, is a most champing view of the streeu immediately below, under the eye like a plan on paper; then the Scioto from one hun- dred to one hundred and fifty yards wide, wind- ing on the left, with some low hiUs about two miles beyond it, terminating the view to the north- east ; while to the eastward and to the westward as far as the eye can reach both ways, is spread a counto' P-tly flat, and partly rising i„ gentle swells, which If cultivation proceeds in equal pro- portion to what it has done since Chilicothe was first laid out, about ten years ago, must in a short ..me^present one of the finest landscapes imagi- From Chilicothe, on the State road, to Point FaUs,,s eighteen miles. At these falls is the town ot Cambridge, consistino. «f ,i,„.,. . ,. c , Q „. """v/wt twcusy nouses, i7 where there is a post-office. The falls will admit of extensive water-vvorks, and the country around them consists of u rich eoil. Two miles below the falls, Point river has washed away the side of a hill that bordered on the bank, which has ex- posed to view a great variety of fossils. The hill, which is supposed to be nearly 400 feet high, seems to consist principally of lamina of slate stone. These lamina appear to be cemented to- gether by allum and copperas, which is melted and runs out by the heat of the sun. It is collected by the inhabitants and applied to common use. There are round lumps of a mineral substance, from the size of a turkey's egg to that of a large common ball, frequently rolling down, which appear to contam sulphur, lead, and copper. In the vicinity ot Pomt river, which runs into the Scioto are a great variety of ochres and pigments of different colours, as well as minerals, which would afford an ample field for the investigation of the miner- alogists. Many sulphur springs gush out from the hills ;n the neighbourhood of this river South of the State road, and between Point and Sunfibh Hills, from a stream of that name which drams them and discharges itself into the Ohio. f hey are about forty miles wide from Point to the Ohio, and about sixty miles long from the Sciot. to the Little Miami. The greater part of these hill, are^so steep and broken that no settlements can be "^aue upon them. But in those parts of tliem (; ■ < ilili 38 dlt .'''"k'"'""' °^ ^-^tW^tlon, the land is rich, rapidly, increasing. The ro«rn ,, situated on the declivity of a Ml cons.,t.„,,f ,,, ,i,.y houses, ^ostj of heied jusuce of the county of Adams. From West tucky on the great road, the land is mostly hilly the soil nch and clothed with large timber nri„ cipally oafc and hickoVy. ' ^ road'tVT"" T"' °' ''''"'""'« """J '^-^ State road to Limestone, are, A- =.bout twenty miles n.oderate.y hilly, soil good, ...u, ng au'thTva-' riet> of timber common to s • * pine. North of. Hirrc;mmV:;rD praine, or natural meadow ; which e.tend S the Scoto to the Little Miami, a distance of sixt^ a rection. This meadow has a leyel appearance but .s somewhat an inclined plain, which produces' a more rapid current in the streams of water than would b. expected. Seyer'al branches If he Srnott- *^''= '''"^ "'^ '"'•''» P>^" U sufficendy dry for culture. It is covered with long coarse grass. Cattle feed eagerly on it Ind rbr::r "''" ^°°' "— we^i::^ are brought every sprini? from K". i... __ , 39 fattened here for the fall market. The soil pro- duces good com, and if properly cultivated would probably produce large crops of hemp. Some parts are sprinkled over with a light growth of small oaks and hickory. In other parts it is so entirely destitute of any growth of wood, that for a great distance not a single tree is to be seen. It so much resembles an old settled country, that tiie traveller is constantly looking out for fences and buUdings. The town of Franklinton is situated at the forks of the Scioto, forty-five miles above Chilicothe by land, and about seventy by water. It was laid out about the year 1 798, by Lucas Sullivan, Esq. on the west bank of the Scioto, opposite to the mouth of Whetstone river, and on a beautiful swell of ^^round, which gradually depends in every direction from the centre of the town. It con- tains about an hundred houses, ten or twelve of which are built of brick. It is the seat of justice for the county of Franklin, and has a handsome brick court house, with a neat cupola. On one side of the town is a delightful prairie, and on the other the river Scioto, which renders the prospect highly pleasing. The land ground Franklinton, 10 every direction, is rich and level, but, at a few miles distant, wood and timber become scarce. Worthington is nine miles distant on the Whef- stone river. It was laid out about the year 1 805 by the Rev- Tnmpo v,m j _,i ^ * - V '■' --iaj'-jiiii %iuii uincrs iroiii Connecticut. The land in the vicinity of this 40 town i> very rich and level, covered «M, , Sromh of timber, princinal v hLT " '"S" »»d ash. It produces ex 'f ^ ' '"^'" *"'''•' will probably be hi,.M. f . "^getables, and -Huto.nhL:eStr:™s:;sr^"'- ^ounda^. .„e!- r::- oTieiTar^h:?: -' .ustice for the countv of ,hJ ' "'' "ated on the east bank of fh "'"'"'• ^"* »"■ level and good in everf ^ "'"■• ""• "'' '"""^ present .hi'lytettled "^ ""°'' "«" «' •>« »« The Scioto has no falls from the mo.,,1. . ■ source, and glides with a gentl. currem h "* ■^"n?f:orth?:ri^^^ -roni^tde;:^::-™^^--^^^^^^^ of water for batteaj.:: J::.:*"" ""''■'""''''* !fl 41 The county of Highland lies on the east side of this river and south of the great prairie, ex- tending eastward within twenty miles of Chilico- the. It is moderately hilly, the soil rich, and the growth of timber generally large. Hillsborough is the seat of justice, and contains about thirty houses, and a handsome brick court house. A tract of swaly, wet land, about eight miles in width, passes through the country, which drains a part of the grer.l prairie. Its waters run off by Oak creek into the Ohio. The road from Chili- cothe to Cincinnati passes through it, and the deptli of mud and water renders travelling ex- tremely troublesome at all seasons of the year. The people settled between the Scioto and Lit- tle Miami are mostly from Virginia and Ken- tucky, and the improvements are bconsiderable, excepting near Chilicothe. Immediately below the mouth of the Little Miami, is the town of Columbia. It was laid out by Col. Symmes, and is the oldest settlement in the State, on the Ohio river, except Marietta ; but has increased very little in the number of iti inhabitants. At present, it is only a neat, pleasant village, consisting of about forty houses, built at some distance from each other, on a rich bottom or interval. Nor is it probable, from its situation, thaj^it will ever become a place of much business. Oil an eastern branch of the Little Miami^ i& Wmiamsburge, th« seat of justice. for Clermont 4' 43 county, containing about fifty houses, and a handsome stone court house. The face of the country is hilly, but the soil is rich, especially on the banks of the .iver, where the lands are very nne. ' Further up the Miami is Lebanon, situated on the bank, and the largest town on this river. It contains about an hundred houses and is inhabited by the people called Shaking Quakers. They are emigrants from Kentucky, who were first formed mto a regular society by a Mr. Macna- mara, who still continues to be their head. They have acquired much credit, as a frugal, industri- ous people. About twenty-five miles above Lebanon, is Zema, situated on the bank of the Miami, and is the seat of justice for the county cf Greene. It contains about fifty houses and a handsome court house., The country around it is level and fer- tile. Nine miles above this town is a very sin- gular spring. It issues near the brow of an high * flai topped hill, about a mile from the western bank of the river. Water sufficient to carry an over-shot mill issues from it, and the quantity has never been known to increase or diminish. It throws out a reddish sediment, which concretes into a hard mass, forming a kind of bank, which irequently alters the position of the spring. The side of the hill is very steep, and the elevation of the spriner from the haR#» r^f #1,^ um i_ ,• eighty feet. The water U rery cold and b». a es, and a Face of the pecially on s are very lituated on river. It ) inhabited rs. They were first r. Macna- id. They ) industri- banon, is mi, and is •eene. It )me court 1 and fer- very sin- f an high," 2 western ' carry an antity has nish. It concretes ik, which Jg. The ^^ation of ts aDOui id has a 43 strange taste of iron and copper. It is in high repute for its medicinal virtues, and is become a place of considerable resort. The land further up the river is level and the growth principally oak. Although the soil is rather thin, it produces good wheat. Springfield is about twenty miles above Zenia, consisting of about fifty houses and the most of them well built. It is situated on the forks of Mad river. From Sringfield to Urbana is fourteen miles. The land north of Springfield is much richer than that which lies south of it. Here the growth varies from oak to beach, ash, sugar-maple, black and white walnut, and cherry. Urbana is the seat of justice for the county of Champaign. It contams about sixty houses and is rapidly increasing in mhabitants. From this town to the Indian boun- dary line is about sixty miles ; the land mostly level, the growth large, inclining to beach, the water good, and wiU admit of many excellent mill seats. Returning back to the Ohio, the first town be- low Columbia is Cincinnati, five miles distant. In the Ohio Navigator a concise and correct description is given of this town. " Cincinnati is handsomely situated on a fir.*^ and second bank of the Ohio, opposite Licking river. It is a flourishing town, has a rich, level, and well settled country around it. It contains' about four hundred dwellings, an elegant court house, jail, three market houses, a land office for 44 the sale of Congress lands, two printing offiee. .«"■"« ''eekly Gazettes, thirty mercantile s.o e ' and the various branches of mechanism are Jar r.ed on with spirit. Industry of everJLd be*: du y e^coura^ed by the citLns, Sn'^^at " if V^I V' "k ' =°""'^«'»"« manufacturing bv7„H ' ^ °"' ""■" '>""''^«d and eighty four s as/accordin;r^,f ^ H—d tt pu chase*^ and T^ ''''" " ''"""' ^^"""'»'' cal3 Ham f, ""' "' J"'"" f°' "hat is called Hamilton county, Ohio. I, ha, a bank called The M,am, Exporting company. The healthmess and salubrity of the climafe ; L level ness and luxuriance of the soil • .1,. ■ . excellence of the waters, aVdei 'to the M" attendant on the judiciou's .Z^^^I^'TZZ populous, equal nerhaos if nT ""'' "^"^ ^^.puce;ofa:trLxr:rs.a:eT 1 ne site of Fort Wfl«h;r.,»*« • •^wtes. IS now laid out in town w- » a \ . ' " -de is carried on between-'cinciTnaUrN:; 4& Orleans in keel boats, which return laden with foreign goods. The passage of a boat of forty tons down to New Orleans is computed at about twenty-five, and its return to Cincinnati at about sixty-five days. From Cincinnati to North Bend, on the Ohio, is sixteen miles; and to the mouth of the Great Miami, where the west boundary line of the State meets the Ohio, is seven miles further. This tract of land, which extends some distance from the Ohio, is interval of the first quality ; w«ll settled, and in a high state of cultivation. Re- ceding farther back from the Ohio, the land is hilly, the soil indifferent, and thinly settled. The road up the Great Miami leaves the Ohio at Cincinnati, and comes to the Miami at Hamilton, fourteen miles di8t?»nt. Hamilton is the spot where fort Hamilton formerly stood. It is situa- ted on a large plain, well cultivatedi but does not contain more than ten or fifteen houses. It has been a considerable village, but since Cincinnati has so rapidly increased, Hamilton has been oi> the decline. Thirty-five miles above Hamilton is Franklin, on the Great Miami, containing abou^ sixty houses, built on one street. The lands ii4 its vicmity are level and rich, and have some of the best cultivated farms in the State. Dayton is; thirty miles above Franklin ; the country mor^ level than below, and the lands well settled and improved. The town is situated on the east branch of the Great Miami at the mouth of Mad I f If 46 rivtr. Its situation is Dleawnf k ,• by a rich country, and hidsT r' ."."^ '""°""''''' of considerable business I, I '„, "^"r"* •""" Houses, the n,ost of ^hllih' ^ S' "t the seat of justice for the county of Mo '1 • On the west side of the Mifn, f ^ f^Xj Dayton, comes in a large branch, caUed S ll^atr This branch eitends from the Miami ^"''- X ''T""'"''3'ond the li o^hTs't,: Xh .^^t haTb .„ setded T "'" T' '^^''- ^hi. Quakers ,h! ^ ^ ""'"''" °^ F«n«=h or ?sro:t::;rt-':f«--f South -J economy, th^^y J^/ .tteWe:t:: ;:;:::r°"?h;-ticrit7i''^^^^^^^ -y productive. LX^rirrtrs^ fifty mnef'^The'l "Z '"*"" ""'> »""'• " »"-' ""X rauea. l he lands are mosUv level anH .• u From the Indian boundary the uL! ' level to the head watertTf h, stre rirr"^ •ntolake Erie. Some por^ T.risttTf country s inundaierl i« ♦», • **^' °^ tivn «/*k """'^^^'^^ »» *he winter and'sprina for two or three months Th« u j *^ * tiiv^iuiis. ^ ug i^g^ Waters nf *k^ mam branch of the Great Miami, calleTrerliS Gule °rr'""'- '^ " ""-'P-fge. with Au ri::.!'""! ™°' •»«<> the Miami of the lake. ■"■" """""'■'" °"''^''' ""y » Po«age of somewhat 4f greater length, with Sandusky river. The port- age is likewise short from the Scioto to this river, and great advantages are expected to result to the' State of Ohio, in future time, by a communica- tion between the waters which descend to the Ohio, and those which run into the lakes. The waters of the Great Miami are not inter- ruptedby falls,or considerable rapids for three hun- dred miles. Large boats can pass from Dayton to the Ohio, the greater part of the year. But being subject to a much greater decrease of wat.^r It is less favourable to navigation than the M us ' kmgum nor is the river equally good for the pas- sage of boats at any season. This river furnishes excellent fish, mostly of the same kind, but some- what of a greater variety, than the Scioto. Con- siderable quantities of fine fish are taken in the Little Miami, which aiford a good supply for the market, at Cincinnati, in summer and autumn. The strean^s in every part of the State are well stocked with fish of various kinds. The most of tZ -'T''' '' *''''' ^P^'^^^^"^ ^^ff^rent from those m the waters of the Atlantic States. But similar names are applied to many of them. The black and yellow cat-fish are of the largest sLe and weigh from four or five to more than on^ hundred pounds They nearly resemble tne pou of N.w England. The pike diifer little from those over the mountains in form, but are much larger. Some h ' _ > are much n^^k*« .. pou„a,.ei«h;;-^-:3:-^3;2: 48 geon, bats, and salmon, but differ from those fish in the northern States. The buffaloe fish seem to be peculiar to these waters, and are said to be so called on account of a noise they make m the water, resembling a buffaloe. The State undoubtedly abounds in a great va- riety of fossils, such as clayes, ochres, pigments, and the most useful ores, but it has been very lit- tle explored. The waters of the Scioto, and some parts of the Ohio, particularly the rapids possess a petrifying quality. Pieces of wood' small fish,and other an;mal8,have been found com-' pletely changed into stone. The bones of animals of an enormous size, and some of the skeletons nearly complete, have been dug up in several places, particularly at Big Bone creek, on the left bank of the Ohio. . The quadrupeds w.ich are native are the buffaloe, elk, red deer,# bear, wolf, grey and black fox, panther, wild cat, rackoon, beaver, porcupine, ground hog, grey and black squirrels, and those smaller animals which are found in similar climates. As the settlements have ad- vanced, the buffaloe and el^ have retreated into the uncultivated country. Grey and black squir- rels still continue in prodigious numbers. They 'The fawns, when very young, are often found asleep « readily as h.s ao^. and come and eat bread out of his hand. In this wav the d*'— o.- ...:•.. :,.__ .. . " '"^ 4f are frequently seen swimming across the largest rivers, and are extreme'^ destructive to fields of Indian corn. Of the winged fowls, the swan and pelican are sometimes seen ; geese, brant, and ducks of various species, are found in the rivers ; turkies, pheas- ants, partridges, and quails in abundance, in the forests. Turkies are still in great plenty, though perhaps not so numerous, as before ^!.e setUements commenced. They are of a I^.rge size, and the flesh of an excellent flavour. Large flocks visit the wheat fields after sowing, and at the time of harvest, and often greatly injure the crop. When their eggs are hatched under hens, the turkey chickens wiU be tame, and in this way the wild turkey is easily domesticated. The pigeons are so numerous as almost to exceed credibility At certain times in the year, vast flights resort to particular places, called pigeon roosts. Many of these roosts extend over more than an hundred acres of land, and it is said, some have been found to exceed a thousand acres. They light upon the trees in such numbers as to fill all the branches and, by their weight, break off" large limbs. Ev- ery tree in these extended roosts is kiHed, and the dung on the ground, which has been found from twelve to eighteen inches deep, destroying every species of vegetation beneath them. The green paroquet with a yellow crown, a species of ^ne parrot, is very common, u i,«o „u_. _. pleasant note, and alil.ough easily tamed, it cannot '3 I! so kl of tV° w'T *' '■"'"'"' '"''='' '^^^ hab- xlval!, ""' "^»-">- respect ai„gu,„. i hey art always seen ia flocka, which re.ire at n.eht, ,„.o hollow trees, frequently in larg n^n^. Ihese flocks also retreat to hollow trees in the ^mter. There have been found after a'evele .be"whor ?'°"' ?"""=" '" "" '"'S* '^«. filling :XtmT^;irA-;::^ttr;r^^-''' Of other lar,e ana sn,allMXUr:rrf them are s.m.lar to those which are indigenous - .he northern and middle Atlantic States.^ Some of the people, who first emigrated into ^hs country, had fearful apprehensions of vent a™rTvaI tT"' "J """^ ^°°" "'''''" - •"-^ tnd which T ,"•■■' ^^-y "-"rly of the same A^laml t "' """'^ '" '^' "■'"'*''' '"><' "-.hern Atlanfc States,- probably not so numerous as ^ey«,ere .there, on their first settlement. The be near the places where they have dens. The he trunks of fallen trees and about rubbish, under wh.ch they retreat in the winter. They resem' ble the ratde snake in colour, but not so ClaTe •The large collection of feathers fmin.i :„ i n In W-»ff.i.fn,.,i 1 . ""^'-"^^ ^ round .n a hollow tree, in wateiford, and e.vam ned hv the Rev TVf,. ir • nrnl ihli, *i,^ f .. « ' «e\', Mr. llarris,, were pi OLably the feathers of these h;iv1« w •» r ' ^' = St less active and destitute of rattles. Their bite is not considered so dangerous as that of the rattle snake. They have five or six very small poison- ous teeth, placed in the same sack, on each side of the upper jaw; the rattle snake has only one on each side, but are very large. The moccason snake, which is very common in the Carolinas, has been seen in some parts of the State, but very rarely. In the prairies, a very si..all rattle snake, about the size of a man's finger, and ten or twelve inches in length, is frequently found among the grass. They are called the prairie rattle snake, and are said to be venomous. These are all the poisonous snakes found in this country. There are two kinds of water snake ; the backs are black, and the belly of the one is a bright red, and of the other of an ash colour. The other snakes are the common black snakes ; some with a ring round the neck, but the most of them have- none; the striped and green snake, and the speckled snake, usually called the house adder. Lizards, of various colours, and some of them very beautiful and active, are plenty. At the falls of Point Creek, a remarkably large water lizard has been taken with the hook, while fishing for the cat and other fish. The form is that of a liz- ard ; the skin, in colour and smoothi^ess, resem- bles the New England pout; the leg. short, and the tail flattened like an eel. When a pressure L. mad e on the hnrlxr fKw.f, — j^ _ iUiiae on the hnHxr fKw.I, ^:ii ^-7 .t'lv-A, nuis.y mailer, m drops, and perfectly white, exudes from the s.y mailer, m large I por tK of the »kin. Some have been caugh, of eight or ten pounds weigh,. They are not a^phiC for they w.U not live longer out of the water than .he pout or eel. The other reptile,, and the grea" variety of .nsect,, found in this country, do no .J' TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION OF THE INDIANA TERRITORY. 1 HIS part of the northwestern country was con- stituted a territorial government, by an act of Congress, passed the nh day of May, 1800, and was bounded eastwardly by the following line of separation ; viz. "All that part of the territory of the United States, northwest of the Ohio river which lies westward of a line beginning at the Ohio, opposite to the mouth of the Kentucky river, and running thence to fort Recovery, and thence north until it shall intersect the territorial line between the United States and Canada, shall, for the purpose of a temporary government, con- stitute a separate territory, and be called the In- diana Territory. And Saint Vincennes, on the Wabash river, shall be the seat of the govern- ment." Only the eastern boundary is named in the act, and the Indian claim of a large portion of the Territory is not extinguished. The whole tract, agreeable to this line, is bounded south by 5* If f the OMo west by the Mississippi, a„d north by *h.ch makes the extent of this Territon- consider ally greater than the State of Ohio a Jvtl bu?"' '"" °' ''^ ~"""y Wroaches to through it to .': Oh o s Mis!" """;'"'"^ smaller strean . ^na M'ssissipp,, and many lakes ' ''°"" °' "^''^ ^"^ into the The Wabash is a larire riv,.. ,• • head waters of the river Lr k '"^ "'" "^^ "O"'""", ■" «i.i.«l F™.h .ill.„ "", - • theMia^ittrrstrrakeTir'S"""'"' •age is eight miles, and comes to .hni- '""■' Fort Wayne. -^Hiami near From a north branch htr ^ u -munication is ma^^^^Lt: /salTr " seph, running into Lake Michigan Tb w.-^t rt;ttra""T"'"^^^^^^ Vincennes'"^;T: ;::r' T'" '''"' -hich principally oblT H Zt, ^""'^ between Saint V;no« , navigation are -- .tsiu vvniic river, callfiti the great Rapids. Near the village Ouiatan, it is said a silver mine has been discovered, which it is apprehended will prove valuable. About forty miles below the village comes in the river Ver- miUion Jaune. On this river is the residence of the much famed Indian Prophet. The town in which he lives is large for an Indian village, and has received the name of the Prophet's town. Much of the land on the Wabash is rich and well timbered, but towards the head waters there is less ttmber, and very fertile and extensive prairies. A white and blue clay of an excellent quality is said to abound on this river. There are many salt springs, and plenty of lime and free stone. haint Vmcennes is a handsome town, about an hundred miles fron the mouth of the river, situ- ated on the east bank, upon a beautiful, level, and rich spot of ground. It is the largest town ment '^w""^' "'"' " """'^ '^' ^^" °^ S"""- Post Saint Vmcennes. Since the American rev- olution the town has been repaired and enlarged, and IS now a v.ry thriving place, but the inhabi- ants St. I are mostly French. There are more than an hundred houses, some of which are built of free stone, in a handsome style, a considerable number of merchantile stores, a post office and printing office. Here, a proHtable trade is carried on in furs and peltry. The situation is healthy, the winters mild, and •''• -:-i- — j i,-_. . .. vated lands around it are delightful. 56 About forty miles from Saint Vincennes, in a southwesterly direction, is t^e Great Sabine so called, where salt, in large quantities, i, „ade. I. .3 situated ,n hilly land, on a stream of wa.e wh.ch flows into the Ohio. The land is s , owned by the government of the United Sta but rented to th.se who carry on the salt worf and who are sa.d to obligate themselves to make at least, a certam quantity annually, and are no permutedtoseUitformorethanaUstipuJed p. .ce. The waters in this Saline are said to have double the strength of those at the great salt springs on the Scioto river. The land on the Indiana side, bordering on the Oh,o rtver from the Great Miami nearly to th M.ss,ss,pp,, a distance of about six hundred mile " generally hilly and broken, but some excTlen: bottoms, of different extent, are interspersed.' From a small distance above fort Massai and down to the mouth of the Ohio, the land grad- ually becomes level, forming a rich and delightful prame. In this distance, there are manv smal sucams but no considerable river, excepting the Wabash, which falls into the -Ohio But on the opposite side, within a less distance hree large, navigable rivers, besides numerous ^mler «rea™s, contribute their waters to the Ohio. The first ,s Kentucky river, which comes n about seventy miles following the bends of the nver below the Great Miami, i, ni„e,v vard» >v-c at Its mouth, and the same width, when the 57 water is high, eighty miles above. It is naviga- ble for loaded boats, at a high stage of the water, two hundred miles. The second is the Cumber* land, or Shawnee river, which falls into the Ohio about five hundred miles below the Kentucky- river, and four hundred miles below the Rapids* and is three hundred yards wide at its mouth. There being no obstructions, and having a fine gentle current, ships of f^ur hundred tons can descend in times of floods from the distance of about four hundred miles into the Ohio. The third is the Tennessee, or Cherokee river, which enters the Ohio, about twelve miles below the Cumberland ; and is five hundred yards wide at its mouth. This is the largfest river that empties into the Ohio. It is computed to be navigable for boats one thousand miles, and will admit ves- sels of considerable burden as far as the Muscle Shoals, which is two hundred and fifty miles from its mouth. On the Indiana side of the Ohio, there are only some scattering settlements, excepting Jeffer- sonville, and Clarksville, two small villages, at the Rapids, one hundred and fifty miles below the Great Miami. Jeffersonville is situated in the bend of the river, on an high bank, just above the Rapids, where pilots are taken off for conduct- i«g vessels over them. It is a post town, but contains only a small number oi inhabitants, and probably will never be a thriving place. Clarks- ville is another small village immediately below S8 the Rapids and opposite the elbow. at Shipping. e:hie "ureL" oT ^ '""' ^ ?''" °^ '°-''- midwav h! u °PP°""= ''»"''. about midway bet«recn these two villages and opposite and b.ds fa,r to become a flourishing town, if h Situated on an elevafprl „io- i ^ eral ware houses for storing jroods \u;^ • P0« is on the same side, atL't'of ^JS' Here, boats generally make a landing after n,.' the Rapids. Shin buildin„. , "'"S ^''^"^ Pa^'ng r >Jmp ouiidmg was beran and nro. carried on with considerable spirit here un.M ! received a check by the late JJ^oZ'. Hav ingan exceUent harbour, the situa. nT ■= ""'<> "ver. The distance over them is aoout two »• les an,l .1,. I , ah, .• . '"""'"«• ''"cent from a level abc e s twenty-two feet and a half. When Z V'ater is high the fall is only perceivedTv creased velocity of the vessel wM V. ^ '"" to be at the rate of Z, ! ' " "'»?""='• hour Wh 1 "' '"" °'' '"*'"« >»"" an hour. When the water is low, a large portion of the rocks are seen, and it is then that the nail """'" dangerous. There are three channeU; at Shipping- e of consid- bank, about nd opposite nuch larger, town. It is Uains about iting and a I has a con- >s, and sev- Shipping- >f the falls, fter passing a and was re, until it iw. Hav- 'n appears to advan- e of rocks nd is the the whole 3ver them m a level »Vhen the hy an in- :omputed miles an ortion of ' passao'e :hannelg* 49 One is on the north side, called Indian Schute, and is the main channel, but not passable when the water is high ; another is near the middle of the river, and called the Middle Schute, and is safe and easy in all heights of water above the mid- die stage. The third is on the south side, called the Kentucky Schute, and is only passable when the water is high. Immediately above the falls, m the mouth of Beargrass creek, is a good har- hour, having twelve feet of water in the lowest stage of the river. At the foot of the falls is another harbour, called Rock Harbour, with water sufficient, at all times, for vessels of any burden. These two harbours are of the greatest importance to those who have occasion to navigate this dan- gero"onviIle, situated on a bluff, formerly called Cedar fluffs, but has very few inhabitants. On the river Mississippi, the first settlement of any note in the Indiana Territory, is the villajre Kaskaskia. It is an ancient French town, about nmety mdes above the mouth of the Ohio situ ated on the Kaskaskia river, at the distance of five miles from the Mississippi. The village contains ^bout one hundred houses, and the inhabitants principally French. In the vicinity of this village the land is excellent and highly cultivated. The nyer Kaskaskia is navigable about one hundred miles, and drains an extensive tract of level coun try. There is a road leading from Saint Vin- So" %^''''f^ -"^S^> ^^^rly in . west direction This road passes through almost one continued prairie for about two hundred miles there being only scattered copses of wood, which have the appearance of small islands, in a wide extended bay. These natural meado'ws are'v ered with a tall grass, and the sun appears to rise and set m tne grass. On this road th^re are C sett ers, and the traveller is obliged, for seve a" n.ghts, to lodge in the grass or cop;es of wood In this praine, large herds of buffaloe, elk and I French n, ^ "'»"PP', and inhabited by ir a ffio jr 'rtd " '""•" "'-™' eighty houses. The ,;„rfher ir"T' '"'°"* W^. and covered vvichC^C/'^''''-''X ".Ue, abo,e .^e n,outh of he\to:ri '"' navigable four hundred and fifty miles W ous tributary streams fall in,o\ ol totfr,"" seme of which ar^ «i . ^" ^'^^'^s, distance The IS: TT r' ' .^""'"^^""^ the river fro™ .K M"=h'I'macIcinac enters n:net;:L'Z:^rl:-^-J"ndredand •hechich go ;r:;7ch"7 ^''"' "^'^'^ »'■ portage of only two m!l.« ^ ' ' '''°" munication betfveentreM; "''""? "" "^"^ '^'""- ■f he naviff„io„ ^1 Mississippi and the lakes. siclerabi bTdci f"""";",""'"''''"'- ^"^^'^ "^»"- ^^"3. Fr:rz;'.eE:"^t?;;sr''f'^«-» -Hich empties into the Hu o^ tt ai^ ^T P°«ages do not exceed twenty, i" mi L ' Th gation IS opened between New Orleans n,Kl 63 New York ; a d stance computed to be nearly four thousand miles. Perhaps there is not to be found an inland navigation of equal extent, in any part of the world. Another large branch of the Illinois rises near the river Saint Joseph, passing south of Lake Michigan, where a portage may be easily formed. It is called the Theakiki river. The banks of the Illinois are generally high. The bed of the river being a white marble, or clay, or sand, the waters are remarkably clear. It abounds vith beautiful islands, one of which is ten miles long ; and adjoining or ne?r to it, are many coal mines, salt ponds, and small lakes. It passes through one lake, iv;o hundred and ten miles from its mouth, which is twenty miles in length, and three or four miles in breadth, called Illinois lake. The river, and waters communi- eating with it, are replenished with a variety of excellent fish. The large tract of country through which this river and its branches meander, is said not to be exceeded in beauty, levdness, richness, and iertihty of soil, by any tract of land, of equal extent, in the United States. From the Illinois to the Wabash, excepting some little distance from the rivers, is almost one continued prairie, or natural meadow, intermixed with groves, or copses of wood, and some swamps and small lakes. These beautiful, and, to the eye of the beholder unlimited fields, are covered with a luxuriant growth ol grass, and other vegetable productions, wiuch afford fattening and plentiful grazing for I* mbi 64 lr':2'yolf °' '"""""' •"'• "»" "«- AH of 1 InlnV T''^ "' '"""'^ '» "'"'- P-'" abounrl Territory ; but different kinds abound more ,n some situation, and soils than i„ steo^thJ K t" » S«« difference in the different soT",°' u " """= ^""^ "' "«'- - ^r«,. • ^^"'^-^Pple, plumb, and cherrv trees ihabi'J?* r"'"'" <'^8"'P".of«hiY,he >«hab.tan s male a good red wine, for their own consumptio,. It i, .^Jd ;„ ,he year VrsT n! hundred and ten hogshead, of Je'ta^ ' ^ w^ria^ r s"^ ''' 'T' ""■-' «nd.hitef„r„,:;:;r;:;f '-'■'>'- rhe settlers on this river are almost entirelv ages. Where the land is cultivated, it yield, arge crops o almost every article th y comml to the ground. It has been found that tobZ ::X"''-'"'«--^-»^-'"'--rh Between the Illinois and the falls of Saint An nr;ae''r" °''"'°"' ''«^" """'•-'- -- enty m,les, there are a large number of consider- able streams, and some of them navigable riverl wl..ch come from the eastward and discW their waters into th^ Mi..:„:-_. ^. °'."""ge -""'"'fi". ineioilowing 'i i ■**, d deer. AH >s, common^ some parts rent kinds oils than in ?nce in th« >f trees, in od of the hcrry trees ibundance. ^ably, pro- which the their own 15^69, one isted a^'d I settlers, nd black entirely mall vil- it yields comn^it tobacco, to much int An- tnd sev« )nsider- rivers, scharge lowing 6ir are the largest navlgatble rivers, and the computed distance from each other, with the distance they are said to be navigable. The first is Rocky raver, or Riviere a la Roche, one hundred and sixty miles above the Illinois. This is a large river, but the navigation is said to be impeded bv rocks and rapids. The second is Mine river, or Riviere, a la Mine, two hundred and ten miits above Rocky river, and navigable fifty miles. The third is Ouiconsin, one hundred and twenty miles further up, navigable two hundred miles. A bend in this river, near its head waters, passes so near to a bend in Fose river, which empties into Green Bay, a branch of Lake Michigan, that the portage is said to be only one mile and three quarters, forming another easy communi- cation between the Mississippi and the lakes. I he fourth. Black river, one hundred and fifty miles further, and navigable one hundred miles. The fifth, is the river Chippeway, sixty-five miles above Black river, and navigable one hundred miles. The sixth, is Sotoux river, only fifteen miles further up, and navigable eighty miles. The mouth of this river is said to be three hun- dred and eighty yards wide. The seventh, is the Saint Croix, further distant sixty miles, and is said to be navigable one hundred miles. The mouth of this river is two hundred yards. From the Saint Croix to Saint Anthony's falls, is ninety miles, which is in fortv-£ve decrree» -f nnvth latitude. 6* I Hki 66 *vu oy numerous bandt of Indinh. «#• i-r *eient notions • ««.«- , *naians, of dif- l-een discovered of » „ "^ ""' copper ore 1... little explored Vl" °^ """"•)' ha. been very *ho have V itd h r" ."■' °"''' "'"'« P'OP"' BR DESCRIPTION OF THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER. This noble river was made the western boundary of the United States, by the definitive treaty with Oreat Britain, in the year 1783. Considering its great length, the prodigious column of water rollmgmits deep channel, and the quantity dis- charged by numerous outlets, it must be rated among the largest rivers on the American con- •nent. It has been called the American Nile, ti-onri some resemblance it seems to bear to that celebrated river in Egypt. The fertilitv of Egypt IS well known to be owing to the periodical over, fl.owmg of the Nile. From a similar course, vast tracts of land have been enriched bytheouti lets and overflowing of the Mississippi. The Nile begms to rise about the middle of June, and to subside in September. The floods in the Mississippi begin about the first of April, and ♦'^•» water falls within its banks hv the first of Au- The overflowing is much greater on the the gust r '•■ 68 western, than on the eastern side of ,h. ,• From New Madrid to "ointe r! !• "■- .or more than eight h.ndrrnS r.LVaro: the western bank wJrh ♦!, . °" -a>.-c.s.is ovX'edreZr 1 " '"^ 'andsprrdurrdfj::: ir/"^""-- '"^^ depth of from two totw , ' "feet f""'' """ =* considerable settlement, for .h"/ """'''• ^° formed on the ban. ofthrr 'r w" "u ^ - the bank on the eastern .-a ■ """='' of est floods, and wU :i /''", ''"^^ "" '''sh- provement. T^ °^ settlements and im- 'y the k" mi J„r "'*"=" °f 'he Nile are extolled <.ua.itiet^n7;:r~%«'''-''o'esome Mississippi, after iiltrltt r or beLr'"' "'""^ purified from a muddy sediment ^ '" "^ """^ greeable to the taste Z „""""' '••« "ot disa- been habituated "IT x' """^ ^^'""'"'^ be possessed of melaT'oro^T '"^ '"'''''°'^'' ♦<• some people as al M u'^ "' "P^^inff on cleansfngX s\i„ ^' ''"''""^' »"" g"'""y 5 me skm from curtaneous eruotion, It .s supposed the M-ssissippi takes lit!' • a lake called White Bear L»ke but L K '." waters appear nnf *o k i ' '^* "<^a<^ explored!' The m^st 7. °. ^"' """'"^'^ from Indian Lforral^The?"" '^ '""^''' falls of Saint A«ih ■ """ "^"^ the. Blue riv'r at H^^ir ^''> "^""^ ^""-s, -• said to be ;»": r r .rr^"y «>-. ^ ■ — ""^'^ "ic iaiia lor three 69 hundred miles. These falls were first visited by Father Louis Hennipin, a French Missionary, about the year 1680, who wa^ the first European ever seen by the natives, and who gave them the name of Saint Anthony's falls. The country adjacent approaches to a plain, with some swell- ing hills. At the falls the river is two hundred and fifty yards wide, and the perpendicular descent of the water about thirty feet. Near the falls the prospect is said to be highly picturesque and delightful. This widely expanded sheet of water may be seen several miles below, where the eye of the beholder is struck with pleasing admiration, and views, with rapture, this roman- tic scene. At these falls a large factory is estab- lished, where many of the western bands of In- dians bring their furs and peltry, to exchange for various kinds of merchandise. About ten miles below the falls enters the large river Saint Peters, from the westward. The mouth of this river is one hundred yards wide, and the current deep. It is said that it holds its depth and width very nearly for two hundred miles. Further up, several branches come in ; the head waters of some of which are said to take their rise near the streams which run into the Missouri. On this river and its branches are severd trading posts, where Indians who reside on the Missouri frequently resort for commerce. At a small distance above the mouth of the river Chippeway, is ^ lake, about twenty miles in ro Jngth and six miles in breadth, called lake Pepin, ihe Mississippi passes through this lake L although the French have denolina ed . 'lake of Xtr V"^"" of-extended „£ me river. The water in some parts of it i^ Below the lake, the river glides with a »,n.i current, having alternately hi Jh la^dlon one' .d^ and extended meadows on the other So" % the precipices fronting the river ar' high a„d teep, ascending lifce pyramid.,'a„d exhibiti"' the appearance of ancient towers n,.. ^- ces, with the view of larce rJrh i,,.o;.- in. far back towards JrnfrrrS them, and watered with a number of small lake! Between .he Saint Peters and Missour r vers -™any streams of considerable magnitude e„t"; the Mississippi from the westward. The larir s river tSTo"^ -".h of the Illinois. On this river the S,oux,and some other bands of Indians frequently descend with their furs and i . ' matlrot "vu **"" skuns lor •naiket. The current of the Mississippi contin- Mir:;::; ;\r:.^r:; -■■■'-- ""^"'"'^ "*«'-" uiore i«pid, and 71 remarkably cold and muddy. At the common stage of the waters, in these two s eai.s, the Missouri is supposed to be the largest river. This junction is formed twenty- five miles below the Illinois, and two hundred and thirty miles above the Ohio. The land on the banVs of the Missouri are rich, and where they are well cultivated, exceed- ingly productive. There ar. two settlements, ^amt Charles and Saint Andrew, principally in- habited by emigrants from Kentucky. Other small settlements have commenced further up the river. The most distant settlement of white peo- ple IS Saint John's, which is one hundred miles from Its mouth. The great extent of this river was unknown until it was explored by Captain Lewis, and Captain Clark. Traders had before ascended two thousand miles, but Captain Lewis computes the distance from the mouth to the great falls, to be two thousand five hundred and seventy-five miles. About one hundred miles above Saint John's, the river becomes broad,beinK c-ight hundred and seventy-five yards wide, where the Osage nver enters; but about fifty miles fur- ther up ,t narrows again to about three hundred yards. The Osage comes in from the south, and IS one hundred and ninety-seven yards wide at ats mouth. The Osage Indians reside on this nver, from whom it takes its name, about two hundred miles from its mouth. Here the evt.n- s.ve prairies commence, wholly destitute of trees, I I ra but covered with tall grass, and continue, ,vi,h little interruption, far towards the borders of New Mexico, and the Rocky Mountains. Fifteen miles below the mouth of the Missouri, IS Samt Louis, delightfully situated on elevated ground, upon .he bank of the Mississippi. It is considered to be the most healthy and pleasant situation known in this part of the country. The settlement of this village was began by a few French people, who came over from the east side of the river about the year 176s. It became the residence of the Spanish Commandant, and of the principal Indian traders. The trade of the Indians on the Missouri, part of the Mississippi, and Illinois, was chiefly drawn to this village. Before the purchase of Louisiana by the United States, ,t contained one hundred and twenty houses, mostly built of stone, but large and com- modious dwellings. It contained about eight hundred inhabitants, who were mostly Frencr. bince this purchase was made, numbers have em- igrated to this village from different parts of the United States. There are now more than two hundred houses, a post office^ ,'d a printing office issuing a Weekly Ga^vtte. There are many mercantile stores, and a flourishing trade in furs and peltry. It i, made the seat of territorial gov- ernment for Upper Louisiana. Saint Genevieve, or Mis.ire is sixtv-four miles lower down, on the bank of the Mississippi, and nearly opposite the vHlao-^ o*" i^^-^- 1 i.r- .. - ~-USnici» It IS U 73 considerable village, containing more than twe hundred houses. In the year 1773, this and Saint J.OUIS were the only villages on the western side of the nver. At a short distance below is a small settlement, called the Saline, where large quanti- ties of salt re made, and sold at the works for about one dollar per bushel. Not far from Saint Genevieve, in a western direction, a large number of lead furnaces are worked, producing great quantities of lead, where it may be purchased at three or four cents per pound. In various parts of a large tract of country south of the Missouri numerous lead mines are to be found. Many of them are not more than two or three feet below the surface, and may be worked with great ease. Were the inhabitants sufficiently numerous to work the mines, it is supposed a quantity of lead might be obtained from the ore, equal to the sup. ply of all Europe. , The^ principal mines which have yet been worked, are near the head waters and branches of the nver Marameg. This river is of considera- ble s,ze; it enters the Mississippi about twent^ mdes below Saint Louis ; it comes in nearly in the direction of the Missouri ; and its widely extended branches reach far back into the country^ About forty miles from Saint Genevieve, on a branch of the Marameg, is Barton's mine, discov- ered by Francis Barton, who obtained a grant of the land, and becran to wort ♦!.« «.^ , . • '^"^' "iv; iic«riv lorcv years ago. It is now i„ ,he possession of a Mr. \ Au.,i„, who has erected . good smelting furnace Th» ore « no, of the richest kind, but a Jeater quantity has beftu , .^.. d h,,-, ,1,. • ^^"" Darf „f .u *'*' '""' "> any otheif part oJ the country, irom which .1,. / derived great orofit. Tk """^ '"'» th. „,„. I • ^ ^^' °" '» taken out of «h« ground r, an open prairie which is elevated Snrtf acrer^r " "^ °^" «""<' two fee. of the ""rfac? " " ^°'""' "'""'" which it lies in uLo V" " """ °''^'''''' '" /^^^JKt. Und^S-ir;— SS broken up with a pick-axe n«^ u ^ the air rl.A'i P'^"^^*^' and when exposed to ^ne air, readily crumbles to fine sand Tk a strata of r.7 ! ''^''^ '^^ '^"^ ''^ck i« nn^ ;° **^'^> substance ; some portion of arsenic tne ore. Some of th.s ore will yield from sixtv to seventy-five per cent. . ^ About five miles from Bartnn'« ; direction, is an old I ' " ^" ^^'*^™ I »ng furnace. »t a greater n any other owner has ten out of is elevated )ed of the over some ind within gravel, in ty pounds ck, easily xposed to The ore to that in id rock if Beneath ;n to two utside of or silver f arsenic itimony, ed with m sixty eastern hy the in this Jcted a ;c[ un- hfam- f5 ilies made a settlement near it. On opening the mine tht y found a rich ore in great plenty. But the Fret.ch furnaces were very badly constructed. They were formed somewhat similar to a lime kiln, at the bottom of which they placed a flooring of large logs, and set up a tier of smaller ones , around the sides of the furnace, within which they put a large quantity of ore. A fire was then made, and continued until the mineral was smelted, and run oiFinto troughs made to receive it ; but much of the metal was burnt up, or lost in the ashes. In this manner each family smelted their own mineral, until Mr. Austin erected his furnace. Since that time, they find it more advantageous to sell ther ore to him. It it conjectured that the whole distance between the old mine and Bar- ton's is one continued bed of lead ore. The time of working the mines is from August to December. After the harvests are over, the inhabitants of S^int Genevieve and other settle- ments on the Mississippi resort to the mines. The rich employ their negroes, and the poor peo- ple work for themselves ; depending on the lead they procure, to furnish necessary articles for their families. The lead is estimated equal to cash for whatever they wish to purchase. Another mine, called Ranalt's mine, situated •on a creek of the same name about six miles north of Barton's, is said to contain very rich ore^ but has been worked only a short time. •^ American. XeT'll'"?'"''''^''''"™''" 78 .• but .hci^ .ir":^; r;L:rer """•■ « from .h.m ,„d h»„ • ' '"^ '"'*'« "<>'«'' « -r.i„ JCltr'"" """' ""'• "-8- ore ha. been folnd „"c.r .hrf r*""""'"^ °' ""* , »nc.. indie... a gr"at e«/" r'T" "PP""'- »iBe. The ore U f^., j • , '"**» '* Joe » .ra. hund,;d ;ou':d?";.ix 'T '•""*' »' •- •olid, but ha. noVL * • T^ ""y P"« "nd .".»" di.t..Ke fro ' .h • "J"'*" ""^''''- At a --.i.^/tutimaSr^'''''^'''' "inc. have been di.cov " d "n the h""::' "'*"" «bov. Ba j:.:?f X7. : :: z '""""' ■""« I^a Motte', mine is on 2 " ^" '"""^■'• F^neis. about tbiirestrfr^sf^^'- tivicvc. It wa.» fi;o.l . /*^* ''^on^ St. Gen- e; bej.. . they will be in- terrupted by water. The - V ril i» very differ- ent in its appearance from any other that has been found in this part of the country. It it of a fine, steel grain, and contains a considerable quantity of silver. In smelting of it, a very dif- ferent process is necessary from that which the French people have employed, in the other minet. The want of skilful workmen, and differently con- structed furnaces, has greatly retarded the work- ing of this mineral. The method these people have pursued, has been to give the ore repeated heatings, by laying it on piles of logs, before it is prepared for smelting, by which great loss is sustained. They rarely get more than thirty or thirty-five per cent. ,*., . There is also found, at this mine, a different kmd of ore in beds. It is called, by the miners, gravel mineral, being found intermixed with the soil, in small particles, from the size of a pin's head to that of a hickory nut. After being washed, it is put into a furnace, and smelted into •lag, and then placed in another furnace, not unlike a miller's hopper, where a partial fluxion is pro- duced. It is said this kind of ore, in the hands of experienced workmen, with a proper furnace, ' would yield large profits. 7» rs Barton's mine, since the improvements made by Mr. Austin, is calculated lo produce lead to the amount of ttventy thousand dollars per annum. As the mineral is so easily obtained, the other mines, under proper management, might, doubt- less, be rendered exceedingly profitable. On the borders of the Mississippi, from Saint Genevieve to Cape Girardeau, there are scattered settlements and some considerable villages j but from the Cape to the mouth of the Ohio, there are very few setders. The face of the country in Upper Louisiana is someM^hat broken, but the soil is generally fer- tile. *^It is elevated and healthy, and well watered, with a variety of large rapjd streams, calculated for mills and other water works. From Cape Girardeau, above the mouth of the Ohio, to the M wsouri, the land contiguous to the river is generally much higher than on the east side, and in many places very rocky on the shore. Some of the heights exhibit a scene truly pictur- esque. They rise to a height of at least' three hundred feet, faced with a, perpendicular lime and free stone, carved into various shapes and figures by the hand of nature, and aflPord the appearance of a multitude of antique towers. From the tops of these elevations, the land gradually slopes back from the river, without gravel or rock, and is covered with valuable timber. It may be said with truth, that, for fertility of soil, no part of the world exceeds ihe borders of the Mississippi ; f^:x^'' to the land yields an abundance of all the necessa- ries of life, and almost spont«.:eously ; very little labour being required in the cultivation of the earth. That part of Upper Louisiana, which borders on North Mexico, is one immense prai- rie J it prodUes nothing but grass j it is filled with buffaloe, deer, and other kinds of game ; the land is represented as too rich for the growth of forest trees. It is pretended that upper Louisiana con- tains in its bowels many silver and copper mines, and various specimens of both are exhibited. Sev 1 trials have been made to ascertain the fact; but the want of skill in the artists has hith- erto left the business undecided."* The Mississippi, from the junction of the Missouri, has a strong current, which cannot be stemmed by the force of wind on sails, without the aid of oars. The width of the river is about one mile and a half, and the water always thick and muddy, A depth of fifteen feet of water can be carried down, in low stages of the river ^ but immediatf '/ bUo' ' the Ohio it deepens to twentyfive feet, and still increases to sixty feet. These waters are well replenished with fish of different kinds. The largest are the cat fish, the spatula fish, and sturgeon. The cat have been taken weighing more than one hundred pounds, and the spatula, of fifty pounds weight. The smaller fish are tlw pike, buffaloe, perch, trout, * Appendix.— Ohio Navigator, pagK: 138. H h\ I 9& r*f, mullet, «nd carp. It mny, however, be doubts! whether the carp be of the .nme species of those caught in Europe. It has been said that h<'rring have been taken in these waters. AUi- g^uors have not been observed higher up than the Arkansas river. A peculiar kind of fresh water turtle abounds in these rivers. The feet are webbed, and the upper shell remarkably soft. They arc from ten to fifteen pounds ivcight, and considered very delicious. Fowl, the greater part of the year, are to bt seen here in great abundance ; such as swan, crane heron, g^ese, ducks, and brant. The pelican arJ sometimes seen, but far d6wn the river, are very numerous. The size and shape of this singular bird resembles the «wan, excepting in its mon^ atrous pouch which is placed under its neck and bill. It seems to be an appendage which nature has provided for carrying and preserving its food ior Its own support and that of its young. The pouch of a pelican killed by Captain Lewis, when ascendmg the Missouri, was found to hold five gallons of water. They ^e frequently prepared and used for bags and other purposes. The forest trees, in Upper Louisiana, are gen. crally similar to those in the State of Ohio and Indiana Territory. Black and white mulberry h found here in much greater plenty, especially on the Missouri. The cotton wood tree grows in great abundance, on the borders of these riv- ers. It has been supposed to be the same as the * 81 lombardy poplar, but it is probably a different «pecic8. It differs, at least, in f' v«ry lar^ quantity of volatile, capillary papp, j attached to the seeds. When the seed vessels open, and the seeds come out, it almost fills the air, and, as it descends, covers the bushes and ground, like « fall of light snow. Its appearance very nearly resembles cotton wool, which has doubtless oc- casioned its trivial name. The pecan, or Illinois hickery, grow plenty on the Mississippi. In the swamps and lowest flooded land, the cypress of a large size is the pnncipal growth. Where the land is less inun- dated the swamp and live oak abound, which is highest estimated for ship building. The points at the bends of the river, and ends of islands, are chiefly covered with thickets of small willows. At the confluence of the Ohio with the M is- sissinpi, its width is very little increased, and continues generally about a mile and a half, as far as the Natchez, where it begins to prow some- what broader. The princip.1 rivers which dis- charge their waters into the Mississippi, are the Samt Francis, White, ,\rkan.n8, and Red river, on the western side, and or ±? eastern, the Wolf and the Yazoo riven:. Immediately Cii r ji 5fing c ut of the Ohio into the Mississippi, !*)« cum nt h very sensibly ac celerated, but is not •>< strong as between the Ohio and t!ie Missouri. It is estimated to run U the rate of three and » half to four miles m % "%), m i 83 hour ; and when the water i, high is somewhat IndT , H*"^""'" — di„«,, serpemine and the island, numerous. Some of the bends m Its course down to the line of demarkation, are sudden and large , but between that line and romte Coupee, there are several of prodigious magnitude. ' *• timtTT'-"^ '^" Mississippi, thereisat all 121 r ;'"' ''"P"' °^ '*'""• *»" ■"-"V sand bar make off mto the river. Frequent strong eddies, and many large current, of water, sitting , out of the river, when the water is high, with 8~at rapidity, require the constant and careful attention of the navigator. The navigation i, a .0, impeded and endangered, by what are called plamers. Those are large bodies of trees, with their roots fast at the bottom of the river, and stumps but just above the surface of the water. Another impediment is called sawyers, which are bodies of trees standing in a sloping manner, and A third inconvenience i, small wooden islands, composed of drift wood, which, by some means has been arrested, and immoveably fixed to the bottom; not rising much above the water, are to be seen only at a short distance. Soon after entering the Mississippi from the Ohio the whole prospect is so much changed, ..a to exhibit the appearance of a different countr,- ; the climate becomes miid and soft ; and the cold ot winter seems to have produced very little effect 83 on the state of vegetation. The sameness of view along the banks of the river, as far down as Pointe Coupee, a distance of nine hundred miles, i. scarcely interrupted, excepting by a few settle- rnents and some high bluffs, on the eastern side. it , .'P''^*" *" ""^ ""^ continued level, clothed w,th large timber, and an under growth ol cane brakes, and small shrubs. Opposite the mouth of the Ohio i, a small set- t ement consisting principally of men whose em- ployment .shunting. Five miles below, on the east s.de, .s fort Jefferson, — 'ch is evacuated. V I,"', '""'• ''"''•* ' ''""her down, IS New Madr d. This set .-. . . r„i r- ,, inisset. ..ent was made by Col. George Morgan, of New Jersey, about the year 1790. It is pleasantly situated, on a ,rich -. , and was intended for a ,„ge town. After bu.Id.ng a small number of houses, the peol became extremely sickly, and no further progress «as made .n the settlement. On the same side th.rty.three miles below, in a bend of the r ^e ' ;s a settlement, two miles long, called Little Pra-' i^oiucSr"" '"''''"'' '="-''-«'^-'>-« The first high lands to be seen on the river are the Ch.ckas,w bluffs, on .ae .astern side These bluffs are four in number, :he first of whi.!, one hundred and seven.;.six tlf b! f Z Oh.o, and continue, about a mile on the river The second are deven miles below the fir,t the «h.rd twentyone mije. below the sec ^V and H extend ahout three quarters of a mil-. Pa„i„„ these bluffs, the river is extremely croolced. They rise from sixty to one hundred and fifty feet above the surface of the water. The fourth are thirtv- three mile, below the third, and just above them Wolf nver enters from the eastward. The mouth of this r.ver is not large, and contiguous to it i, the site of fort Pike. These bluffs continue about two miles. On the lower extremity is fort Pickermg. i„ an eligible and communding situa- t.on, overlooking the whole, of this elevated ground. When this fort was built, fort Pike was evacuated. It is a Captain's command, who ha, a detachment stationed at Post Ozark on the Arkans™ river. This fort is in the Mississippi Territory, where the United States keep a Factor. Here ,s a small settlement of whites and Indians; but the most of these people are the half breed, which IS a mixture of both of them. _ On the western side, about sixty-five miles further down, comes in the river Saint Francis. Its mouth IS about two hundred vards wide ; the current IS g.„tle , and is pavigaOle for a consid- erable distance. The head waters of this river are said to be not far distant from Saint Gen- evieve, m a south westerly direction. At the entrance of the river, stood Kappa, Old Fort, b^-.'tbythe French, principally for a magazine of stores and provisions, during their wars with tne Chickasaw Indians. 8jr Six miles bf'low the Smnt Francis, is a beauti- tul natural meadow, called the Big Prairie. At a omaU distance from the river, i« this pra«ie, 18 a fine lake, five miles long, and three wide ; it abounds wif i swan j and discharges its water into the nver, by a lai-ge bayau. About eigfaty.five miles below, enters White nver on the same side ; and about twenty miles fairther, comes in the Arkansas, which is much larger than White river; and admits of naviga- tion to a great distance. A communication is made between these rivers by an inland channel, which goes out of White river about three miles above its mouth, and about twenty miles up the Arkansas, connecting the waters of the two rivers, i he distance of the Post and Village of Ozark on the Arkansas, is fifty miles from the mouth of that r,ver; but by passing up White river, and through the channel, it is reduced to about thirty miles. On the upper and head waters of the Arkansas are a large number of Indian villages, i wo hundred and ten miles below the Arkan sas, the Yaaoo river enters on the eastern side, which takes its rise in Georgia. It comest WKh a gentle current, and is nearly three hundred yards wide. It abounds with swan, geese, ducks and other water fowl. On the borders of h J StTe o7r "?'^' 'r' ^^"'^' P"^^^-^d of the 5>tate of Georgia, and sold to New England spec- ulators, called the Yazoo company.^ tX miles further down are Walnut hills ,- 'on thllS II aj 86 «t par. of which, fort H..ry wa, built, but has tz^trT"'^ ''""'^ Walnut hii'.,,!;: twenty-four m,Ie», commence, the Palmi^ ,,, .lement, on the same aide. Thia i, a veThand some .ettlement ; it contain, a large number of house, ; extends eight mile, on the river .and i, m a aour.,hmg ,ta,e. The land i, very r ch and well .mproved in the culture of cottonf Funher down about thirty miles, i, ,he famou, s^arof tarm which i, under excellent culture. He i, much respected for hi, hospitality and poli"^e topa,seng.r, when they call upon him. tw^,' "-f "l^^^''" '» ^t-^ot one hundred and wenty rndes below the Walnut hills. It u si.u- recederb,?/"^""'^ ''''''"^ '''"''=' "h-h descent. Frontmg the river, the bluff i, nearly perpendicular, and two hundred feet in hei^hf fT K,' r^""" "^ ""^ "««'• B^'ween the bTse of the b uff and the river, i, a space which is evd >ag, and „ spread over with dwellinEs trading house, and shop,. From this lit.le vZ^e S te bir v: '"''''"' '"'"' '^ "•« -"™i°»f the ed^" f r"^ " ''""' " '<""* •»'«»»« from the edge of the precipice, leaving a ,pacefora hand ome common. It contain, more than three hundred houses mostly frame, and one story h.gh. Some of those more recently erected are er two 8tory, and ia a handsome style. The houses generally are commodiously constructed for the transacting business, and the free admission of air m the hot season. The prospect from ths city IS delightful ; commanding an extensive view of the river in both directions. There are two pnntmg offices, issuing weekly papers j a post office, receiving a mail once a week j several mer- cantde houses, and a Urge number of smaller stores and shops. Great quantities of cotton, in- digo, tobacco, and other commodities, are annu- ally shipped from this city, where the accumula- tion of wealth is pursued with industry and ardour. It i, a port of entry, and ship, of four hundred tons can come up from Orleans, which w about three hundred miles, without any other obstruction than the strength of the current. The land in the district of Natche. is generally rich and very productive. It is elevated ground, extending about one hundred and thirty miles on the Mississippi, and from twenty to thirty mile, back from the river. Some parts of it are broken, by hills, which favours the raising of horses, nea cattle, sheep, and swine. In the woods and swamp, ,h ,h,i, ,i^i„g ^^^ hairy than in the country further north. Fre- quent changes in the state of the weather .ire ex- perienced in ,he winter, but is rarely excessive not m the summer. •8 Cotton i, the ,tap!e commoaity, and i, raised ."great ^rfcc.ion ; it i, p,a„.ed t'he last o/f1' ZZ' T ^^'""'"^ "' *^»"''- "f ''<'- "bo have Wge p.nnta..on, derive great profi,,. and are Zt:,Z -^ ■ "T" '^ «='"■»»»»'« handsome the 8,o,«h of the sugar cane. Some sugar ha, cZ "; ' ,"' '^'•: ''""" "' ■=""-« "- -^-- to^", .! ".' *'"""• ^""^ " P'od-^ed with ground but wheat doe. not succeed. Indi-o. Apple, «.d.he,rie, appear not tr be adapted to y«U the^ Iruu ,„ pWnty. 5^,,^ ^„^ • ilr'riv'rr'"*""^'*'--^'"-^'^ Better *p'' '"'if ''''"'' *'="^" «« Loft"*' Height,. Fort Adam, i, on the ,ide of thcK the .umm,. „ a strong block house, which over- looks the fort and surrounding country. Acll re;errrr''"'''''''>^^°--^'o- c^ntoVr / ^"''""8"" ^""S^' i^a handsome On the an r '.?"""'" '" '""^ "^""^'^^ ■»"• Four miles below Port Adams, is the line of and the Span.sh government. Prior to .be •0 purchase of Louisiana, this line was ^% 1.0 I.I 1.25 2.8 3; us ■ 4 2.5 gag 2.2 2.0 1.8 i.4 IIIII1.6 vl p> '/ Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716> 872-4503 r\^^ '<•. ^ 90 five or six miles of the line of demarkation, jiwt below which the great bend first commenced. The distance across the land is only five miles, called the Short Cut ; but following the course of the river is fifty miles. Here the bend still con- tinues, turning to the eastward and southv/ard, until it comes within one mile and a half of the river in its course to the northward ; nearly completing a circle of about thirty miles in cir- cumference. The last of these bends is called Tunica Bend, at the extremity of which is Tuni- ca village, a handsome settlement, extending about twelve miles along the east side of the river. Point Coupee is about fifteen miles below Tu- nica village, on the western side, where there was formerly a bend, nearly resembling Tunica Bend, but of smaller size. Here the river, after making a circuit of about twenty miles, returned almost into Its own stream. A channel, some years ago, was cut across, and by the washing of the current] the river is become as deep and broad as it is above and below, by which a saving is made of about twenty miles in the distance. The old bend is called Fausse Riviere. Point Coupee is a rich and populous settlement, extending about twenty miles on the river. The land is laid out in beautiful cotton plantations, producing great crops. Here commences the embankment or Levee, on the western side of the nver, which is continued to Orleans, a distance 91 of about one hundred and seventy miles. Here the beauty of the Mississippi and prospect of the country exhibit a view so enchantingly delight- ful, as scarcely to admit of description. On the side of this elevated, artificial bank, is a range of handsome, neatly built houses, appearing like one continued village, as far as the city of Or- leans. They are one story, framed buildings, elevated on piles six or eight feet high, and well painted ; the paint generally white. The houses for the slaves are mostly placed on straight lines and nicely white-washed. The perpetual verdure of numerous orange trees, intermixed with fig trees surrounding the houses, and planted in groves and orchards near them, highly beau- tify the prospect ; while the grateful fragrance of constant blossoms, and the successive prog- ress to plentiful ripened fruit, charm the eye, and regale the senses. Baton Rouge, a very fine, flourishingsettlemen*, is about thirty miles below Point Coupee, on the eastern side of the river. Here the high lands terminate in an elevated bluff, thirty or forty feet above the greatest rise of the water in the river. And here commences the embankment or Levee which is continued, like that on the western side, to Orleans ; and a range of houses, ornamented with orange and fig trees, the same distance, perfectly similar to that on the opposite bank. Baton Rouge settlement extends about twenty miles on the river, and to a considerable distance back, in an eastern direction. The soil is rich ; the cotton plantations are well cultivated) produ- cing plentiful crops. About fifteen miles further down, on the same side, is the river Iberville, which forms an cut- let from the Mississippi when the water is high, but when the river is low, it is dry. The water of this stream runs into the lakes Maurepas and Ponchartrain, and through them'to the sea, form- ing what is called the island of New Orleans. At a point a little below the Iberville, commences an uninterrupted series of plantations, which are continued, upwards of one hundred miles, to the city of Orleans. These plantations are all cleared in front, and unde'' improvement. Some of them are planted with sugar cane, but the greater part with cotton. They are narrow at the bank, and extend back to the swampy ground, which is incapable of cultivation ; the land no where ad- mitting of more than one plantation deep. At the point below the Iberville, the Missis-^ sippi turns short to the westward, forming a large bend. At the extremity of this bend is an out- let, called the bayau Placquemine,onthe western side, discharging its waters into the sea. By this bayau is the principal communication with the two populous and rich settlements of Atacapas and Opelousas. These settlements are the most wealthy in Louisiana, abounding in horses and neat cattle ; containing a large quantity of good land, capable of being much better improved. §8 The ba}fau la Fourche, an the same sidjCy is about thirty miles farther down, following the meanders of the river, and eighty from the city of Orleans. From this bayau the course of the river is nearl) south east, and much more direct to the city. Bayau la Fourche is a large ondet, forming a considerable river, which commuxu* cates with the sea to the west of the BaHse« In old maps h is called La Riviere dcs Checamaches. When the wxtcr is high it will admit of craft of aizty or seventy tons htivden. On its banks are namerotis aettleasents, one plantation deep» The land is rich and gradually descends frcMaa the banks to the swamps, which a: u generally covered vrith water^ and incapable of cnltivation. The cukure is principalfy catU»i. >dFr>om this outlet to the city^ the land will ad* mit of only one plantation deep, and is rarely capable of cultivation, more than one mile from the bank of the river. It then becomes low and swampy to the lakes and the sea. The,swam]» arc immense, intersected b^ creeks and lakes, extending more than one hundred .miles to the high lands of Atacapas. But the swamps gener-* ally abound with large cypress trees. Great quantities of this timber is sawed by mills, erect- ed on streams formed by cutting sluices through the Levee. These mills are worked with gseat rapidity nearly half the year. What has been said of the situation, soil, and culture of the plantation below Iberville, on the eastern side of 94 which the river, will very nearly apply to tho are opposite, on the western side. The city of New Orleans, is situated in a bend of the river, on the eastern sidc,:n latitude thirty, north, and longitude ninety, west. It was laid out by the French, in the year 1720, extending about a mile on front, from the gate of France, to that of Chapitoulas, and somewhat more than one third of a mile in rear to the rampart. On the upper side an extensive suburb has been added, I called Saint Mary. The streets are straight, crossing each other at right angles, but are much too narrow, being only thirty^two French fee ia width. In the centre of the front of the city is s large, handsome square, called Place D'armes. The church and town house, built of stone, stand facing the square. The houses in front of the city, and one or two squares back, are mostly brick, and are two stories high ; the rest of the houses are chiefly one story, and built of wood. They are elevated about eight feet from the ground, to avoid the inconvenience of w..„4r, and the under part generally occupied as cellars. The city has been fortified, but the works, which were originally too deficient to have been defended, have gone to decay, and are now principally removed. There are about one thousand five hundred houses, and between ten and twelve thousand inhabitants, including Saint Mary's. It is the capital of Louisiana, and the seat of gov- ernment of the lower territory. Although the 95 1 situation is unhealthy, large accessions to the population are annually made from the United States, and from other parts of the world. It is the principal mart of the western country, where large shipments are made to foreign markets. From its local advantages, it bids fair to become one of our greatest commercial cities. ■^* Opposite to the city, the river is about one mile and a half in breadth, running with a pretty strong current ; and yet there is a perceptible rise of the tide ; when the water is low it ebbs and flows from a foot to a foot and a half, in per- pendicular height. The distance from the city to the sea, at the mouth of the river, is about one hundred and eight miles ; and the country low and swampy, containing very little land capable of cultivation. Fifteen miles below the city, and at the head of the English bend, is a settlement, called Saint Bernardo, or Tcrre aux Bceuf, con- taining two parishes. The inhabitants are nearly all Spaniards from the Canaries, . who improve a narrow strip of land, principally for raising poul- try and garden vegetables, for the market at New Orleans. At this place a cantonment was formed, and the late army, under the command of General Wilkinson, was mostly stationed, where a v.ery distressing^ and mortal sickness prevailed among the troops. Fiom this setdement to the fort of Plaquemines, forty-eight miles, the land is a morass, almost im- passable for man or beast, and always oversowed if n h it for sereral months tn the year, but 6lled with cypress and jack brush. From Plaqiiemiiies to the Passes is twenty-four miles, where the river branches into three parts. Theae branches are called Pasfles, and distinguished, by the -east, south, and west Pass* The land in this distance is mostly clothed with jack bushes and tall weeds. From these branches to the sea is about twenty miles, and the land has the appearance of a vastly extended marsh, destitute of trees or shrubs, but covered with long grass. The Eastt Pass, at the distance of six miles^ divide into two branches* The eastern is called Pa:^s a la Loutre, and the other Belize. On the Belize is a small black house, called by the same name, and near it are a number of houses, occu- pied by pilots. Large ships, bound up the river, enter it by this Pass ; there being the greatest depth of water on the bar. At the entrance of ttiis Pass about sixteen feet of water may be car- ried over the bar. The bars lie without the mouths of the Passes, are very narrow, and im- mediately after passing them the water deepens to six*^: seven fathoms. The South Pass, which is directly in front of Mississippi, has been almost entirely choaked with drift wood, but has about ten feet of watei' on the bar. The West Pass, which is the longest and narrowest, and used to be the passage by which large ships entered the river, had some years ago eighteen feet, but is . HOW said to be reduced to only eight feet of water on the bar. The productions of Louisiana are cottoh^^ sugar, rum, indigo, rice, corn, furs, and peltry. It also affords lumber, tar, pitch, lead, hordes, and cattle. The fertility of the soil admit!! of great increase of these and an additional supply of m^rty other articles. The culture of the sugar cane, which has already become considerable, may doubdess be carried to a very great extent. At present, cotton is the largest and most profitable produc- tion. Indigo if on the decline. Further north than the Iberville, the sugar cane is liable to be injured by the cold, and the crops rendered un- certain ; but all the lands southward, susceptible of improvement, and adapted to that kind of cul- ture, will produce the cane in good perfection. In some parts it is already became a staple com- modity. Some planters employ afc ut one quarter of their plantations in the production of sugar cane, and the remainder in pasture, and raising provisions. It is estimated that one hundred and eighty feet square will produce, on an average, twelve hundred weight of sugar, and fifty gallons of rum. Calculating on this data, it is presumed the lands under present cultivation, suited to this culture, would produce about fifty thousand hogsheads of sugar, and twenty-four thousand puncheons of rum. It is believed by some that as a full and regular supply of provisions may be easily obtained froni above, on moderate terms 9 ' w 98 f m one half the arable land might be planted with cane, to advantage. It is likewise an undoubted fact, that large portions of vacant land are to be found, well adapted to the cujlture of the cane. The following quantities of sugar, brown, clayed, and reBned, were imported into the United States irom Louisiana and the Floridas, viz. in the year 1799 — 773,542 pounds ; in the year 1800 — 1,560,887 pounds ; in the year 1801 — 967,619 pounds, and in the year 1802 — 1,576,993 pounds. The quantity produced in the succeeding years has probably been considerably increased. 'if I TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION or RED RIVER. 1 HIS river enters the Mississippi on the western side, at the first great bend below Fort Adams, about nine miles distant from the crossing of the line of demarkation. It is large, and one of the most beautiful rivers in Lower Louisiana. Its waters are brackish, of a reddish colour, turbid, and deposit a sediment collected from the red banks, far up the river. The banks are overflowed in the spring to a great extent, and in places to the depth of fifteen cr eighteen feet. The fresh- ets begin to fall in June, and by August the water retires to the channel of the river and lagoons. In the low lands the growth is principally willow and cotton wood, and on the higher, large elms, ash, and hickory ; where the grape vine greatly abounds. About six miles from the mouth of the river is a bayau, leading from Lake Log^ which is a narrow lake, two or three miles" Jl^ TfT" I 100 width, and fourteen or fifteen in length. Twenty- five miles further up is the confluence of Black river, which is large at its mouth, and coming - from a northerly direction. The first settlement on Red river, called Ba- ker''s station, at the commencement of Avoyelles is about seventy miles from its mouth, as the river runs, although not more than one third of the distance, on a straight course. Above this station is a prairie thirty or forty miles in circumference. It is entirely destitute of trees or shrr*-'", but produces an excellent grass for fattening cattle. The beef is said to be of an 'jxcellent quality, and hogs find ground nuts and other food, on which they thrive, and become good pork. The inhab- itants are settled in th- outer skirts, oa the border of the woods. This prairie has the appearance of a good soil, but is found to be too cold for cotton and Indian corn, which thrive much better on land where there has been a growth of wood. Little or no wheat is raised, as they have no mills. to grind it. The inhabitants are a mixture of Spaniard, French, Irish, and Americans, who are generally poor, and extremely ignorant. A icvf miles above this prairie, the land begins to be moderaiely hilly. Near the rivcr^ the timber is oak, hickory, and some pine, but back from the river the growth is mostly pine for thirty or forty miles. Holmes^ station is about forty miles above Baker's, where there is a settlement. The land 101 produces good cotton, corn, and tobacco. On the south side, of the river there is a' large body of rich land, extending to Appalousa, which is watered and drained by two large bayauit, colled bayau Robert and bayau Beuf. Their waters are very clear^ and take their rise in the high lands betwen Red river and the Sabine. These waters are discharged into the ChafFetis. It is believ i this body of land, which is forty miles square, in richness of soil, growth of timber, goodness of watei, and convenience of lavigation is equal to any tract ot land in this pan of Louisiana. Erom Holmes* to bayau Rapide is thirty-five miles, and for this distance there are only a few scattered settlements on the right side of the river, and none on the left. The right side is preferred on account of the high lands, which are most convenient for keeping stock. The lands on the bayau Rapide, are nearly of the same quality with the bayau Robert and bayau Beuf. The two mouths of this bayau meet the river about twenty miles apart* The length of this bayau is about thirty miles, forming a curvature somewhat in the shape of a half moon. On its back another bayau falls into it, of excellent '^ater, on which there is a saw mill. Boats can- not pass round this curvature on the account of ob- structions formed by rafts of timber, but can ascend from the lower mouth more than half the distance. On each side the lower mouth is th6 principal settlement, called the Rapide settlement. 9* 102 If- I Few countries exhibit a more delightful appear- ance than this settlement. The plantations are extremely beautiful, and the soil exceedingly- rich. The cotton raised here is of the best qual- ity in Louisiana, The corn and tobacco are very good, as are all kinds of vegetables. The orange and fig trees grow luxuriously, and the climate is delightful. At the Rapide is a fall of water, occasioned by a soft rock which crosses the bed of the river, so thH from July to December there is not suffi- cient water for boats to pass over, but the rest of t}*e season they pass with ease. This rock is so very soft, as not much to exceed, in hardness, some kinds of hard clay, and it is presumed a passage might be cut through it, with very little difficulty, so as to make it as low as the beid^of the river. From the Rapide to the Inuian villages is about twenty miles, with very few settlements for the whole distance, although the land is fine, and susceptible of all kind of cultivation. The Indian villages are pleasantly situated on both sides of the river, and the land very good. Just above these villages is Gillard's s.ation, on an high pine bluff, which, on the east side, overlooks extensive fields and meadows, in a good state of cultivation, and affords a view of a very long reach of the river! Here is an excellent spring of water, gushing out from an aperture in a rock on the bank of the Tivi^r, about high water mark. Back from the 103 house is a lake, which abounds with fish in sum- mer, and fowl in the winter. About six miles above Gillard'^s is the village of the Boluxa Indians, where the river divide* into two branches, forming an island of about fifty milcc in length, and three or four in breadth. The right hand stream is called Rigula de Bondieuy on which there are no settlements. On the left hand is the boat channel to Natchitoches, and ou this branch, for twenty-four miles, there are thick settlements, and the inhabitants wealthy. This is called the River Cane settlement. Above this settlement, the river divides again, forming another Island of about thirty miles in length, and three or four in breadth, called Isle Brevet, This Island is subdivided by a bayau which crosses the Island from one river to the other, and is called Bayau Brevel. The middle division of the river is called Litde river, and is the boat channel, where there are thick settlements. The westward channel, called False river, is navigable* but the banks being very low, there are no settlements. The river passes through a lake, called Lai Occasse, Above this lake the three channels meet, where Natchitoches is situated. The town is small, and meanly built, containing about forty or fifty houses, inhabited principally by French people. The fort, which is now called Fort Claiborn, is on a small hill, forty rods from the river, con- taioing about two acres* This hill is wholly oo 104 I cupied by the fort and barracks, and is elevated thirty feet above the river banks. Natchitoches is an ancient French settlement, which com- menced nearly a century ago, where a trading post was established, and an extensive traffic car- ried on with the Indians. This despicable village is not on the site where the ancient town stood ; the present inhabitants, having been almost en- tirely secluded from the civilized world, have degenerated to a miserable, ignorant set of beings ; but a small degree removed from the state of the savages, with whom they have had their princi- pal intercourse. When a large trade was carried on with the natives, many years ago, the town was much larger than it is at present ; the peo- ple having left the town to settle on farms in the adjacent country, but principally on the long round, near the river. Very little now remains to be seen of the old parts of the town, except the form of their gardens, and a few ornamental trees. There is one great inconvenience in set- tling near Red river ; the waters being never clear, and always brackish. Wells, sunk near the river, have brackish and unpleasant water. There are "ome tolerable springs, but the inhabitants are obliged principally to depend on rain water. Near Natchitoches are two large lakes, one a mile, and the other six miles distant. One of the lakes is' thirty, and the other fifty or sixty miles in circumference. These lakes are connected with the river by bayaus. When the water rises 105 in the river, it rushes into the I^kes, and then rushes back again, as the water falls in the river. The immens<* number of fowl which abound in these lakes, during the winter, almost exceeds credibility. The air is darkened with the large flights, especially near the close of the day ; and the ear almost stunned with the noise they make. One man may kill many hundreds in an after- noon. The hunter takes his station on a coavea- ient spot, and loads and fires as fast as possible, without taking particular aim, until he fiiufe lue has killed a sufficient number to load hb korses. Th-'ie fowl are swan, geese, br&.nt, and several species of ducks. In the summer, several kinds of fish are said to be equally plenty. The In- dians, in taking fish, frequently make use only of the bow and arrow. With this instrument an Indian will often load his horse in a very short time. The fish consist principally of the cat, pike, buffaloe, sucker, and white and black perch, and arc generally of a very large size. From Natchitoches there is a communication with the frontiers of New Mexico. Here th« road leading to Saint a Fe leaves Red river, and passes, in a westerly direction through the Span< ish Province of Texes. The country is said to consist of very extensive plains, abounding with horses and cattle. Major Z. M. Pike, who was sent, by the government to explore the head waters of the Osage and Red river, was taken by the Spaniards, and he and his party, as prison- ■ii 106 1H! ers, were conducted to Saint a Fc. He found the city large and populous ; the country thickly settled, and highly cultivated. When he was liberated, he was conducted, on his return to the United States, in a different route, through a coun- try well filled with inhabitants and a number of large cities. At the distance of about ten miles above Natchitoches, there is another lake which is on the northeast side of Red river, called Noiz, and is about fifty miles in circumference. The bayau or outlet of this lake communicates with Rigula de Bondieu. The bayau Rigula de Bondieu en- ters Red river about three miles above Natchito- ches. Near the lake Noiz, all the salt used on Red river is made. This large quantity of salt, until lately, was made by only two men, and with a few pots and kettels. It is now better worked, but not to a hundredth part of the extent to which it might be carried. The water is so highly im- t>regnated with salt as to require very little boiling. The conveyance of the salt to market is easy, as the bayau is boatable most of the year into the lake. Where the bayau communicates. Red river is in one channel, and here the settlement of '^-and Ecore commences, extending about six miles. Stone coal is found near this settlement, and some fine springs of water issue from the banks of the itvvi* ^xuvui uuc liiiic uuuvc v:;rauu. iiicorc, on the h?ft side of the river comes in a large bayau lor from the Spanish lake, so called. This lake is about fifty miles in circumference, and rises and falls with the river, in the same manner as the lakes near Natchitoches. Two miles above this bayau the river is divided into two streams. The course of the west branch is westerly for nearly eighty miles, where it turns to the eastward, and communicates with the right branch, forming an Island one hundred miles long, and in some parts of it thirty miles wide. The upper end of this branch is so choaked up with drift wood that boats cannot pass. Settlements, of entirely French people, extend nearly the whole length of this branch, called bayau Peir settlements. The land is fertile, and the scattered inhabitants possess large herds of cattle, and appear to live very well. The face of this tract of country is moderately hilly, and the water very good. Some miles west- ward, towards the Sabine river, is a saline, where they procure their salt. * On the main, or eastern branch of the river, there are a few scattered settlements, including one called Camti. The land on this branch is similar to that on the other, excepting that near Camti, it is much intersected and broken by bayaus. The land at the upper part of these set- tlements is considered not inferior to any on the Red river. The computed distance from the mouth of Red river is one hundred and forty miles, and between thirty and forty from Natchi- toches. At the upper houses the great jam of lit r iii 108 drifted timber begins, choaking up the river, at intermediate places, which are frequently several leagues apart, for one hundred miles. The stream is extremely crooked, and the low lands, which are rich, extend to a great width dn each side. Although the river is so obstructed, boats of any size can ascend in a bayau most of the year. This is called bayau Channo^ leading into lake Btftino, at the distance of about three miles from where it leaves the river. This lake is about sixity miles in length, and is nearly parallel with the river. A communication with Ae river is fermed at the upper end, by a bayau, called DaicJiet, This passage is much shorter than to follow the meanders of the river. From this bayau to the mountains the river is free of ob- structions* Nearly eighty miles above bayau Daichet is the Caddo old town. The lands for this distance are rich, consisting of high bottom, which is widely extended from the river. The Caddo old towns consist of a number of villages built on a large prairie, in the midst of which is a lake of about five miles in circumference, without any stream running in, or out of it. The water is so perfectly limpid, and the bottom so clear, that the fish may be distinctly seen, at the depth of fifteen or twenty feet. On this prairie, and not far from the lake, is an eminence to which the Indians pay great vctieralioii. They nave a tra- dition, that the Great Spirit, having determined 109 iver, at several . The V lands, dn each d, boats ; of tlie mg into e miles s about [el with river is , called than to m this of ob- ichet is listance hich is ido old It on a lake of yjit any er is so ir, that ;pth of nd not iich the e a tra- rmined to deluge the earth with water, and drown all the people upon it, selected one Caddo family, and placed it on this eminence. The water ndt rising so high as the top of it, this family was saved, when all the rest of the people in the world were destroyed ; and from this family all the Indian nations are descendants. Not only the Caddos, but all the other bands of Indians, pay homage to this eminence, when they pass it. The neigh- bouring bands consider the Caddoquies their common father, and treat them with respect. Their number of warriors do not much exceed one hundred men, but they brave death with the utmost fortitude, and boast that they have never embrued their hands in the blood of a white man. They carry on an incessant warfare with the Osage and Chicktaw nations, but live in peace with the other bands. From the Caddo old towns to the Panis vil- lages, following the course of the river, which is nearly west, is about seven hundred miles ; the land alternately clothed with timber and prairie, and some of the prairies very extensive On a branch of Red river, which comes in about one hundred and thirty miles below the Panis towns, it IS said, silver mines have been lately discov- ered ; and just below the first village, the Ra- ha-cha-ha, or the Missouri branch of Red river, enters from the north 5 which is a large stream, and the water so brackish ,that it cannot be drank. At its head waters, the Indians collect large io '( ! Ill 110 lumps of rock salt. From the Panis villages to the head of Red river the land is broken and mountainous, and wholly destitute of wood, ex- cepting willows and small cotton wood trees on the borders of the streams. The Indians report that there are many silver mines among these mountains, of which the white people have no knowledge. The Panis or Towiache Indians, who reside on these waters, were once powerful, but are re- duced to about four hundred warriors. They live in villages, and have large numbers of horses ani mules, and raise corn, tobacco, beans, squashes, and pumpkins. They cut the pump- kins into long, narrow strips, as is sometimes done by white people, to dry them. When they are sufficiently wilted to be tough, they weave them into mats. These mats, with the other pro- ductions they raise, they sell to the roving bands of the Hietan Indians, who rove in the plains and mountains between Red river and Saint a F6, but never live in villages. The Hietans wear these mats over their shoulders ; and, as they travel, cut off pieces and eat, until they have devoured their mats. These commodities the Panis exchange for buffaloe robes, horses, and mules. Although their country abounds with game, they are not esteemed good hunters. Having tew guns, they depend on their bows and arrows. The buffaloe, deer, bear, antelope, atid wild hogs, are in great plenty ; but they live Ill principally on bufFaloe meat, and rarely kill a deer. The men go naked, except their breech flap, and the women wear only a short coat of dressed leather, tied round the waist. These Indians are at perpetual war with the Osage nation. Black river, a large branch of Red river, has already been mentioned. Coming from a north- ern direction, it enters Red river about thirty miles above its mouth. The course of Black river is nearly parallel with Mississippi, at a dis- tance of about forty miles. Between these riv- ers the land is overflowed when the Mississippi is high. At the time this immense cypress swamp is flooded, it exhibits the appearance of a vast number of large trees, standing in a lake, or a bay of the sea. The name of black river, at the distance of sixty miles, is changed, and it is then called the Washata river. Here the course of the river tends to the westward, and the land becomes sufficiently high to admit of cultivation near the bank of the river. At the mouth of the Washata, and near lake Cattahoola, is a small settlement, where the settlers have raised an em- bankment to prevent inundation when the water is high. Above this settlement, at the distance of about one hundred and seventy miles, is an ex- cellent tract of land, extending on the river, about forty miles. Here the much famed Aaron chase ; to commence the settlement was the osten- 112 ilifi sible object for which he raised his army, and descended die Mississippi. After his progress was arrested, it is said, a sm.ill number of his men went into the ground, but remained only a short time. This tract is high prairie, interspersed with wood land ; the soil is exceedingly rich, and the face of th« county delightful. Some few ' settlements have been made upon it, and are extended still further up, where there is a small fort. But the people are extremely indolent, and having contracted the habits of the Indians, had rather hunt than cultivate the soil. At the head waters of the Washata are the famous hot springs, of which much has been said, which, with many, exceeds credibility. It is asserted by those who have visited them, that meat held in them a short time will be sufficiently cooked for eating. The land where they are found ia barren, hilly,. and broken, but there are no volcanic ap- pearances. Loud explosions are frequently heard among the hills, somewhat resembling the blowing of rocks with gun powder. These noises, the Indians say, are made by the spirits of white peo- ple, working in the hills, in search of silver and gold mines. Between the heads of branches which enter Red river, and thcje which run into the Arkan- sas, is a range of high and impassable mountains, which extend to the great nrairies, eastward of the waters of the Osage river. It is said, a gold 113 mine ^as been discovered north of these mo»"^» tains, on a branch of the Arkansas river. Indians and hunters likewise report, that in these mountains there are several silver mines. It has been already mentioned, that Ozark Post and village is on the Arkansas, fifty mile^ above its mouth. At this post an £nsign^s com- mand is stationed, which is a detachment from the Captain's company, at Fort Pickering. The village contains about sixty families, chiefly hunters and traders ; many of them the mixed breed of Indian and white, and all of them intol- erably lazy and indolent. But the soil is exceed- ingly rich, producing every thing committed to it in great luxuriance. Twelve miles above this station is the village of Ozark, or Arkansas In- dians, and six miles further are two more large villages* Their warriors are computed at one hundred and thirty, and about seven hundred in- habitants. They are friendly to all nations, ex- cept the Osage. Although they speak the same language, they are at perpetual war with each other. There are some smaller villages father up ; and at the distance of about forty or fifty miles, the hills begin to rise on the south side y and about three hundred miles further, they be- come lofty, inaccessible mountains. On the head waters of the Arkansas, a band of Osage Indians reside, who have separated from that nation on the Osage river. Their village is large, and their hunting ground a most excellent 10* I m 114 tract of high prairie, interspersed with groves of tltulxr. h has a deep, rich soil, and abounds viih a great variety of wi'd game. They arc enemies to all the other nations except the little Osage band ; none venture to setde near them, or presume to enter upon their hunting ground. The ridge of mountains between Arkansas and Red river, form a barrier to the Caddos, and the small nations who rised on those waters ; but they sometimes make excursions round the mountains, and descend Red river, spreading terror and dep- redation among those tribes. The widely extended, tributary streams of Red river, Arkansas, and Osage, extend into, and water an immense tract of country ; and some of the branches of these rivers nearly interlock with each other. The head waters of the Osago river take their rise at no great distance from those of Red river. The general course of the Osage is nearly north, which, after running through, perhaps, the finest tract of country, east of the rocky mountains, for more than six hun- dred miles, enters the Missouri river, about twa hundred miles above its mouth. The immensely extended prairi" • :ottti ^ence about forty or fifty miles above the mouth of the Osage, on the western side. They generally ap- proach to a level, but in some parts rise into fswelling hills, destitute of wood ; in some parts ate small copses of wood ; in others, forests of CDiibiderable extent ; and usually the streams ot 115 water are bordered with a large growth. On some of the streams, the beautiful wood called Boisjaun, or ye'iorv xvood^ has been found. The Osage nation of Indians reside principally on this river. Their first villages commence about two hundred miles from its mouth. They are divided into two parties, called the Little and Great Osage, and live in different villages. The Little Osage nation, although derived from the Great Osage, formerly lived in villages at the mouth of Grand river, on the Missouri ; but being exceedingly harrassed by the SiouT, and other tribes, removed up the Osage river, and placed themselves u» der the protection of the Great Osage. Their villages are the first, in as- cending the river, and at a small distance beyond them, commences the villages of the Great Osage. The Osage nation is one of the largest and most formidable, which has yet been discovered in these western regions. Their warriors, inclu- ding the Little and Great Osage, are computed to amount to two thousand, and about eight thous- and souls. They are remarkably tall, large, and ferocious. They are erect, well proportioned, and many of them measure six feet and two or three inches. They are expert hunters, and con- sidered the best warriors in the western country. Being constantly at war with every tribe, without distinction, their very name carries terror with it into every other nation. They are generally 116 i^ s ^ I I equally inimical to white people, which has been often witnessed by their attacks on the settlements ac Saint Lo\iis, the lead mines, and Saint Gen- evieve. They never fall upon these settle- ments without making grea'- depredations, and mostly get off without suffering much injury them- selves. Bu* the traders, when they have once entered their villages, are perfectly safe, and are treated with much respect and hospitality while there. Sometimes, however, in going and returning, they will fall upon, and rob them. Although they are great hunters and distin- guished warriors, and often ramble far in these excursions, they live in villages, and raise corn, beans, squashes, pumpkins, and melons. They are proud and overbearing, viewing all other nations with coi-tempt. In their war expeditions, they are courageous, patient, and persevering ; enduring great fatigue and hardship with the ut- most fortitude. They delight so much in blood, that no sufferings are too great to encounter, if it be necessary in making their attacks upon their enemy by surprise. They generally kill all their prisoners, except the children , and these they will sometimes adopt as their own. No nation has beer so able to withstand them, as the roving bands of the Sioux. Having no settled villages, they are always prepared for war, and encounter their enemy to more advantage. They sometime! engage in offensive wars, and venture to make attacks on the Osage villages. 117 The complexion of the Osage nation Is between an olive and copper colour j their eyes dark brown j their noses large and aquiline, and their hair black, straight, and course. The men pluck out, or shave off, all the hair upon their heads, except a lock upon the crown» which they permit to grow its full length. They sometimes per- forate the cartilage of the nose, in which they hang a drop, similar to an ear drop, and bore their ears nearly round to the top, in which they place a large number of silver ear-rings. They wear a breech flap fastened around the waist with a belt ; a pair of leggins, and shoes or moccasons. These are made of dressed buffaloe or deer skin, and fancifully worked and ornamented with lead and porcupine quills, stained with different colours. A buflfaloe robe, which is the skin dressed with the hair on, is worn over the shoulders, and serves for a cloak by day, and for a b^d and cov- ering by night. In the summer this robe is laid by, and they go naked, except the breech flap and leggins. The women are large and well proportioned, rather inclined to corpulency; theirfaces oval; cheek bones somewhat high ; but the features are regular, and not destitute of beauty. Their un- der garment is dressed leather, silk, or calico, without sleoves,and coming down below the knees. About the neck it is decorated with a large num- oer oi siivci' oroucncs. i nert icg^uis unci uiuc- casons are similar to those of the men. Their 118 hair is long, and neatly tied up, forming a club behind. Broad silver clasps are worn on their arms, wrists and ankles* They also, like the men, wear a buffaloe robct Their villages are built along the banks of the river. The houses stand in two rows, on a straight line, with a wide street between them. They build their houses with split logs, laid up in a neat manner, and cover them with split boards. They are generally about ten or twelve feet wide, and from twenty to forty feet long ; and some of the chiefs have them sixty feet in length. The height is from eight to ten feet; and having no window or chimney, they have an aperture at the top for the light to come in, and the smoke to go out. They have only one door, which is usually closed with a buffaloe skin. These peo- ple live in a more neat and cleanly manner than is common among these western tribes. The Osage nation claim an extensive country for their hunting ground, and do not admit the other nations to make encroachments upon it. It abounds with all the wild game common to this country ; such us the elk, buftaloe, dear,bear, wolf^ cabree, or antelope, ground hog, beaver, . iter» and mink. The title of their chiefs is hereditary. The great chief assumes authority over those of an in- ferior grade ; and his power in many respects is 7 rm*»t^f%t' diSDOtlC* But h^ da**e T^O* «>nrran'«> in nnii tnterprize, nor make war or peace, withw>ut calling ig a dub on their like the ks of the s, on a sn them, aid up in t boards. ;et widcy some of h. The iving no rture at moke to vhich is ese peo- manner bes. country mil the n it. It I to this ir, wolf^ r, . iter> M 0r JJiJ^Sf^ni 7 AA'TKtarifi^_'^ /• The )f an in- pects is r. calling ^H ■i ' '■.7 1 W ' H I; 1 ■»>. 1 H a , ' f H' if . r ^^H I Hi • ^^KflK 1 ' \ • H|| ■ 1 •-i^m M. ; • 1 119 H a council of the subordinate chiefs and warriors. To this council he states his object, and explains his views and intentions ; and if a general assent be not given, he lays aside his project. These people believe in a supreme power, Avhom they call the Great Spirit. To him they attribute every good they enjoy, and consider it as his gift. But they render homage to another Spirit, subordinate to the Great Spirit, who is the author o^ all the evil and misfortune they suffer. By appeasing his wrath, they hope to escape the troubles with which he might be disposed to visit them. " They have also many other inferior dei- ties, which they conceive have power to do them good or evil. They believe, if they are faithful to their nation and kind to their relatives, good warriors and good hunters, that when they die, they shall go to a most delightful country, which abounds in game ; where there will be, perpetual day ; a bright sun and clear sky j when they will meet their old friends ; and where they will enjoy every pleasure they were fond of here, without in- terruption. But that those who are bad here, especially those who are ungrateful to the aged, when they die, will go to a place of punishment, where they will suffer the severest privations, and be denied every thing that was pleasant or desir- able in this life. But the traders say, it is with great difficulty they can be prevailed upon to con- verse at all oti these subjects. The French made repeated attempts to introduce Missionaries 120 among them, but could not succeed. There is said to be one remarkable trait in the character of the Osage India .s, in which they differ, perhaps^ from all other tribes ,• they are extremely averse to ardent spirit, and few of them can be persuaded to taste it. - Below the Great Osage, on the lyaters of the Little Osage, Saint Francis and other streams, are a number of scattered bands oi Indians, and two or three considerable villages. These bands were principally Indians, who were formerly out- casts from the tribes east of the Mississippi. Numbers have since joined from the Delawares, Shawanoes, Wayondott and other tribes towards the lakes. Their warriors are said to be five or six hundred. They have sometimes made excur-. sions and done mischief on the Ohio river, but the settlements, on the Mississippi have suffered the most severely by their depredations. CONCISE ACCOUNT OF THE INDIAN NATIONS, WEST OF THE MISSISSIPPI, TO THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. ff If Little has been known of these nations until very lately. The following information is prin- cipally derived from the accounts ^iven of them by Captain Lewis, when on his tour to the western ocean, communicated to the President of the United States ; and by Dr. John Sibley, in his communications, from Natchetoches, to the Sec- retary of war. The advantages these gentlemen possessed for obtaining knowledge of their names, situations, numbers, and other circumstances respecting them, have been better than those of any others ; and their accounts are undoubtedly the best that can at present be obtained. The Osage nation has already been described. The nation residing next to the Osage, on the vvuicrs ui liic xTiioouuri, is tile jvanzas. incir village is on the Kanzas river, about eighty leagues 11 ih t-' from its mouth. This river comes from the south, meanders, for a great distance, through a fine, rich country, and is two hundred and fifty- yards wide, where it enters the Missouri. The Kanzas have about three hundred warriors and thirteen hundred souls. They are Commonly at war with all nations, except the Ottoes, with ■whom they have intermarriages. The limits of the country they claim is unknown ; they hunt on the upper part of the Kanzas and Arkansas rivers. They live in their villages, from about the fifteenth of March to fifteenth of May, and again from the fifteenth of August to the fifteenth of October ; the rest of the year they devote to hunting. At present, they are a dissolute, lawless, banditti ; frequently plundering traders, and committing depredation on people ascending and descending the Missouri. The Missouri nation live on the south side of the river Plate, fifteen leagues from its mouth. They are the remnant of the most numerous na- tion, inhabiting the Missouri when first known to the French. Their ancient principal village was situated in an extensive plain, on the northern bank of the Missouri, just below the mouth of Grand river. Frequent wars with the Saukees and Renars, and repeated attacks of the small pox, have reduced them to about eighty warriors, and a state of dependance on the Ottoes. They are about three hundred souls. They have a jast claim to an extensive and fertile country, and yet Its reside in the same village with the Ottoes, and accompany them in their hunting excursions. • The Ottoes, with whom the Missouries reside, were descendants from^that nation, but now view them as their inferiors, and sometimes treat them with abuse. They have about one hundred and twenty warriors, and five hundred souls ; claim no exclusive possession, and hunt on the Saline and Nimmehaw rivers, and the plains which are westward of them. Their hunting and cultivating the ground is similar to that of the Kanzas and Osage. They raise corn, beana, squashes, pump- kins, and tobacco. These two nations are at war with the Great and Little Osage, Mahas, Poncars, Sioux, Kanzas, and Loups ; and at peace with the Panis proptr, Saukees, ai i Ranars. The Panis proper, reside on the same river, fifteen leagues further up, on the south side* Their number of warriors is four hundred, and about sixteen hundred people. Their hunting ground extends over fertile, well watered plains, interspersed with groves of timber, especially along the water courses, and abounding with game. They are friendly and hospitable to white people ; pay great respect to traders, with whom they are punctual in the payment of their debts. They cultivate corn, beans, melons, pumpkins, and tobacco. They are at war with the Great and Little Osage. Panis pique, Kanzas, La Play, QiriMv anA Vt'in^rcta • anrl nf npfirp wirVi tlit» T.nnns. Mahas, Poncars, Ottoes, and Ayauwais. 124 ■ Will The Panis republican, or Big Paunch, is a band which has separated from the Panis proper, and established a village on a branch of the Kan- zas river ; but being harassed by their trouble- some neighbours, the Kanzas, they have united themselves again with the Panis proper. They have three hundred warriors, and fourteen hun- dred souls. . Another branch of the Panis proper, is the Panis Loups, or Wolves. They live on Wolf river, which enters into the river Plate. They hunt on Wolf river above their village, and on the river Plate, between Wolf and the river Cora de Cerf, or Elkhorn. They are rarely visited by traders, and carry their firs and peltry to the vil- lage of Panis proper. They cultivate corn, beans, and other vegetables. They have two hundred, and eighty warriors, and are at war with all other nations near their excursions, except the Panis proper and Panis republican or Big Paunch. They consist of about one thousand people. The Mahas was a powerful nation until lately, residing on the west bank of the Missouri, two hundred and thirty miles above the mouth of the Plate river. They could boast seven hundred warriors, were warlike, and a terror to the* neigh- bours. But in the autumn of 1802, they were visited by the small pox, which made such rav- ages among them, as to reduce their warriors to Jess than thrpp hnnHi-pH. unrl tn 9Ur^^^^ civ Vti\nAfofl souls. This distressing calamity induced them 125 to burn their village and become a wandering people. They were then deserted by traders ; and a deficiency of arms and ammunitions, invited aggression from their neighbours, which further reduced them to one hundred and fifty warriors. They rove principally on the head waters of Wolf river, and on the river Quicurre, or Rapid river. This country is high, level, and open, well watered-, and a good soil. They are good hunters, and well disposed towards the whites. They were iaici>' attack'^d by the Tetons Bois Brule, who killed and took about sixty of them. Poncars are the remnant of a nation, once^ res- pectable for its numbers. Their former residence was on a branch of the Red river, of Lake Win- nipie ; but being oppressed by the Sioux, they removed to the southward, and took up their res- idence on Poncar river, west of the Missouri, where they built and fortified a village, and re- mained some years. At length their implacable enemy, the Sioux, pursued them ; reduced them to about fifty warriors, and two hundred people 5 and compelled them to join and reside with the Mahas, whose language they speak. Th'^e Ricaras are the remains of ten large tribes of the Panis, who have been reduced by the small pox and the Sioux, to about five hundrcl warri- ors, and two thousand souls. They live in for- tified villages^ claim no land, except that on which their villages stand, and the fields they improve ; and hunt immediately in their own neighbour- It* 126 hood. The country in every direction around them, for several hundred miles, is entirely bare of timber, except on the water courses and steep declivities of hills, where it is sheltered from the . ravages of fire. The remains of the ancient vil- lages of these people are to be seen on many parts of the Missouri, f.om the mouth of the Tetone river, to the Mandans. The rapacious Sioux Tetons, rob them of their horses, plunder their gardens and fields, and sometimes murder them without opposition, claim the country around them, although they are the oldest inhabitants, and treat them as merely tenants at will. Still they maintain a partial trade with their oppressors, the Tetons, to whom they barter horses, corn, beans, ard a species of tobacco which they culti- vate, and receive in return guns, ammunition, kettles, axes, and other articles^ brought from the river Saint Peters. The Ricaras obtain these hors':s and mules from their western neighbours, who frequently visit them for the purpose of trafiic. The Mandans, consisting of three hundred and fifty warriors, and twelve hundred and fifty inhab- itants, are the most friendly, and well disposed Indians who live on the Missouri. They are brave, humane, and hospitable. Several years ago they lived in six villages, about forty miles below their present towns. From repeated visit- ations of the small pox, and the frequent attacks of the Sioux, they have been reduced to their 12/ present number. They live in fortified villages ; claim no particular tract of country ; hunt only in their own neighbourhood ; raise corn, beans, melons^ squashes, pumpkins, and tobacco. They barter these articles, and horses and mules, with their neighbours, the Assinniboins, for guns, am- munition, axes, kettles, and many other articles, which are purchased of the Canadian traders, on the Assinniboin river. The traders themselves frequently bring their merchandise to them. The Mandans, again, exchange the articles thus ob- tained, for horses, leather tents, furs, and peltry, with the Crow Indians, and many other nations, who visit them for the purpose of traffic. The trade carried on, at these villages, gives them som« resemblance of mercantile towns. They reside on both sides of the Missouri, about sixteen hundred miles from its mouth. The Ah-wah-ha-wa, or Gens de Soulier, is a small nation, very little different from the Mandans, excepting that they carry an a constant and unjust warfare with the defenceless Snake Indians. They liave fifty warriors, and two hun- dred inhabitants. Their village is only three miles above the Mandans, on the south side of the Missouri. They claim to have been a part of the Crow Indians, whom they still ackno.yl- edge as relation, but have resided on the Mis» souri, as long back as their tradition extends. The Minetares, or Gross Ventres, is a large nation, consisting of six hundred warriors, and 128 two thousand five hundred soub. They claim no particular country, nor assign themselves any limits ; their tradition ib that they have always resided in their present vihagcs. Their customs^ manners, and dispositions, are similar to the Mandans. Their villages are on both sides of Knife river, near the Missouri, five miles above the Mandans. On account of the scarcity of wood, they leave their villages in the cold season, and reside in large bands, in camps, on different parts of the Missouri, as high up as Yellow Stone river, and west of their villages, about Turtle mountain. These people have suffered by the small pox, but have been able to resist the attacks of the Sioux. The Ayauvvais nat - ^ .side forty leagues up the river Demoin, and consist of two hundred warriors, and about eight hundred souls. 1 hey are descendants from the ancient Missouri, and claim the country west of them to the Missouri, and to the boundary of the Saukees and Foxes ; are a turbulent savage people, who frequently abuse their traders, and commit depredations on those who are ascending and descending the Mis- souri. Saukees and Ranars or Foxes, are two nations so nearly consolidated into one, that they may be considered as the same people. They speak the same language, and live near together, on the %trDat' o m^£A ^^v 1VT«ouvaot«^*%i fw\A ntMf\ri**tAri om*^ 'rr » forty leagues above Saint Louis* Formerly they 1?9 lived on the east side of the Mississippi, and still claim the land between the Ouiseonsin and Illi- nois rivers. They frequently hunt west of them, towards the Missouri, but consider both sides of the Mississippi their hunting ground. The Saukees have about five hundred warriors, and two thousand souls ; the Foxes three hundred warriors^ and twelve hundred souls. They raise large quantities of corn, beans, and melons. They are extremely friendly to the whites, but implaca- ble enemies to those Indians with whom they are at war. The Sioux is a large nation, but divided into many independent bands. They retain the com- mon appellation of Sioux, but each band has its appropriate name. The number of warriors is two thousand five hundred and ninety, and seven thousand six hundred and ten souls. They are roving bands, without any fixed habitations for any considerable time, and are generally at war with most of the other Indian nations. They claim, as their hunting ground, a very extensive country, on the waters of the Missouri and Mis- sissippi. The following are the principal bands. Wahpatone baad rove on the northwest side of Saint Peters, to the mouth of Chippeway river, and on the head waters of the Mississippi, in- cluding the Crow-wing river. Their lands are fertile and generally well timbered. They are *u,,:- ..:ii.„. .u:i,. *u„ ^. lin^w, Villus liic liuucrs are with thera, which is commonly from Octobet, 130 to March ; treat them with respect, and seldom attempt to rob them. Mindawawarcarton band extend their hunting ground from the mouth of the Saint Peters, to the Crow-wing river, on both sides of the Mis- sissippi. They live in tents of dressed leather, which they transport by means of horses and dogs, and ramble from place to place during the greater part of the year ; an?l yet are the only band of the Sioux, who cultivate corn, beans, and other vegetables. Their land is level, fertile, and well wat red. To their own traders hey are friendly, but inveterate to those who carry merchandise to their enemies, the Chippeways. Wahpacoota band rove in the country west of Saint Peters, from a place called Hardwood to the mouth of the Yellow Medicine river : never stationary only when their traders are with them, which is not at any fixed time f a great portion, of their country is open plains, and tolerably fertile. They barter the articles they receive from the traders, with the Yanktons and Tetons, who live west of thein, for horses, robes, and leather tents or lodges. Sissatone band hunt on Saint Peters and upper portions of Red river of Lake Winnipie, which is a level, plain^ fertile country, free of stones, and intersected with small lakes. It abounds with fur animals, the beaver, otter, and marten, vvniCii ctiauics liiciii lu jjurcnasc luore mercnaii- dise, in proportion to their number, than their 131 ere n fill" neighbours. An Indian fair is attended in the month of May, at a place agreed upon, on the waters of James river, where this band repair and meet the Tetons, Yanktons of the North, and Ahnah. Here a considerable traffic is carried on, and merchandise exchanged for horses and other articles. These people are devoted to the inter- ests of their traders. Yanktons of the North ihhabit a country which is almost one entire plain, destitute of wood, but a good soil and well watered. Yanktons Ahnah are considered the best dis- posed Sioux, who rove on the banks of the Mis- souri ; but they will suffer no trader to ascend the river if they can prevent it : they arrest the pro- gress of all they meet with, and generally compel them to sell their merchandise at a price very nearly what they themselves fix upon it ; but they do not often commit any other acts of violence on the whites. Their country is very fertile, consisting of wood land and prairie. Tetons Bois Brule,Tetons Okandandas, Tetons Minnakineazzo, and Tetons Sahone are four bands which rove over a country, almost entirely level, where a tree is scarcely to be seen, unless it be by water courses, or steep declivities of a small number of hills. It is from this country that the Missouri derives most of its colouring matter ; tlie earth is strongly impregnated with glauber salts, aiium, copperas, and sulphur, and when saturated with water, large bodies of the m 132 hills are precipilated into the river. On this ac- count the waters of the Missouri have a purga- tive effect on those who are not accustomed to use them, f hese four bands are the pirates of the Missouri, and considered the vilest miscre- ants of the savage race. They receive their reg- ular supply of merchandise from the river Saint Peters, and treat the traders on the Missouri with the utmost contempt, whom they never fail to plunder, when it is in their power. Supplica- tion, or submission renders them the more rapa- cious. They say, the worse they treat the tra- ders, the more merchandise they will bring them, and will dispose of their articles on the better terms. The Chyennes, la Chien Indians are the rem- nant of a nation once respectable for their num- bers ; formerly resided on a branch of Red river of Lake Winnipie, which still is called la Chieon, or Dog river. Oppressed by the Sioux, they re- moved to the west side oC the Missouri, about fifteen miles below the mouth of Warricunne creek, where they built and fortified a village, but being pursued by their ancient enemies, the Sioux, they fled to the Black Hills, about the head of Chien river, where they wander in quest of the bufFal6e, having no fixed residence. Their number of warriors is computed to be about three hundred, and about twelve hundred souls. They do not cultivate, ^but bring to market buftaloc 153 robes of the best quality, and are well disposed towards the whites. The We-te-pa-ha-to or Wetepahatoes are a wandering nation, live on the Paduca fork of the river Plate, in an open country ; and raise a great number of horses, which they barter to the Ricaras, Mandans and other nations, for articles of European Manufactures. Including the Kiawas who often live with them, they have about two hundred warriors, and seven hundred souls. They are a well disposed people, are at peace with all their wandering neighbours, to the west, and particularly with the Ricaras, Mandans, Minetares, and Ahwahhaways, whom they occa- sionally visit for the purpose of traffic, but have a defensive war with the Sioux. The Kiawas do not materially differ from the Wetepahatoes, who live near, and often with them, in perfect friendship. The Kenenavish, or Gens de Vache, reside on the heads of the Paduca's forks of the River Plate, and on the forks of the Chien river. They rove in an open country, like that of the Wetepaha- toes, and carry on the same traffic. Their num- ber is about four hundred warriors, and fifteen hundred souls. The Staetan, or Kites, reside on the head wa- ters of the Chiea river, and frequently with the KenenavisI^ ; and very nearly resemble them in warriors, and four hundred people. 12 m 134 The Kata is a [small nation, who have only about seventy-five warriors, and three hundred souls. They live between the head waters of the north and south forks of the River Chien. The Nemausin, or allebome, are a small peo- ple, having about fift^ v; \rrior8, and two hun- dred souls, and are on the head waters of north fork of Chien river. The principal difference between this nation and the Wetepahatoes, Kia- was, Staetan, and Kataha Is, that they never visit the Ricaras, but carry on defensive war with them and the Sioux. The Dotame is a still smaller nation, having only thirty warriors, and about one hundred and twenty people, inhabiting the heads of the river Chien. They wander over an open country ; raise great numbers of horses and mules ; are a friendly, well disposed people. The Castahana is a larger nation, who live be- tween the sources of the Padoca*s forks of the rivers Plate and Yellow Stone. They have thirteen hundred warriors, and five thousand souls. Like the Dotame, rove in an open country, and raise great numbers of horses and mules ; are friendly and peaceable, but have a defensive war with the Sioux and Assinniboins. The Kee-hat-sa, or Crow Indians, or Gens-des Corbeau is large? having nine hundred warriorsi, and three thousand five hundred people. They live on each side of the river Yellow Stone, about the mouth of Big-horn river. Their country is 135 said to be fertile, well watered, and in most parts well timbered. These people are divided into four bands, called by themselves, Ahah-ar-ro-pir- no-pah, Noo-ta, Pa-rees-car, and E-hart-sar. They annually visit the Mandans, Minetares, and Ahwahaways, to whom they barter horses, mules, leather lodges, and many articles of Indian apparel, for which they receive guns, ammunition, axes, kettles, awls, and other European manu- factures. When they return to their country, they are, in turn, visited by the Paunch and Snake Indians, to whom they barter most of the articles they have obtained from the nations on the Missouri, for horses and mules, of which those nations have a greater abundance than themselves. They also obtain of the Snake In- dians, bridle bits, blankets and some other arti- cles, which those Indians purchase of the Span- iards. The Al-la-ka-we-ah, or Paunch Indians, or Gens de Pause, reside on each side of the Yellow Stone river, near the Rocky Mountains, and heads of the Big-horn river. They have eight hundred warriors, and two thousand three hundred souls. These are said to be a peaceable, well disposed nation. Their country is variegated, consisting of mountains, vallies, p) ..ns, and wood lands, irregularly interspersed. These people, as well as the Crow Indians, inhabit a country, which produces an abundance of the r ^ 1. I 136 .lyi Lie furred animals. Tht y are rovers, and have no idea of exclusive right to the soil. The'Assinniboin nation consists of three bands, who, like the bands of the Sioux, are entirely in- dependent, one of the other ; they claim a national affinity, and never go to war with each other.. They are the descendants of the Siou:;?, and par- take of their turbulent and faithless disposition ; frequently plundering, and sometimes murdering their own traders. The name by which this na- tion is generally known, was borrowed from the Chippeways, who call them Assinniboin^ which signifies Stone Sioux^ and are sometimes called Stone Indians. Manetopa band, or Gens des Canoe, live on Mouse river, between the Assinniboin and the Missouri. They have two hundred warriors, and - seven hundred and fifty souls. They do not cul- tivate ; but dispose of buffaloe robes, tallow, dried and pounded mint, and grease, skins of the large and small fox, small and large wolves, ante- lopes, or cabree, and elk in great abundance ; some brown, white, and grizzly bear, deer and lynx. Oseegah band, or Gens des Tee, consist of two hundred and fifty warriors, and eight hundred and fifty people ; reside about the mouth of the Little Missouri, and an the Assinniboin, at the mouth of Lapt'IIe river. These people do noth- ing at cultivation, although the country in which they rove is tolerably fertile, open, and free of stone. They traffic in buffaloe meat, dried and 137 pounded, and grease in bladders : the skins of wolves, a few beaver and buftaloe robes^-? - Mahtopanato band, or Gens de Grand Diable, rove on the Missouri, about the mouth of the White Earth river, and on the head of Assinni- ,boin, at the mouth of Capelle river. Their num- ber of warriors is about four hundred and fifty, and sixteen hundred people. Their traffic i» nearly the same with the other bands. The Chippeways, or Ojibaway are divided into three principal bands, which arc distinguished by Chippeways of Leach /orie,-who reside on an island in a small lake, called Leach lake, formed by the Mississippi river. They claim the country on both sides the Mississippi, from the mouth of the Crow-wing river to its source, and extending west of the Mississippi, to the land claimed by the SiouK, with whom they still con- tend for dominion ; and the country east of the Mississippi, as far as Lake Superior, including the waters of the River Saint Louis. They con- sist of four hundred warriors, and sixteen hun- dred souls. They do not cultivate the land, but live principally on the wild rice, which they pro^ cure in great abundance on the borders of Leach lake, and the banks of the Mississippi. They trade with beaver, otter, black bear, rackoon, marten, mink, fisher and deer skins. Their il'liuiUorS »**iV^» iiwii »*»««!*<«»«* '^j ••••S3 wit«* isi- uj-.tss pox. 1%*^ 136 Chippeways of Red lake consist of about two hundred warriors, and seven hundred people, they live on the head of the Mississippi, and about Red lake. They hunt the same animals as the preceding band, and make and sell bark canoes. Chippeways of Pembena river reside on the Red river, of Lake Winnipie, and about the mouth of Pembena river. The number of this band is about one hundred warriors, and three hundred and fifty souls. They hunt principally beaver, and kill some wolverine and lynx, live by- hunting, and do not claim any particular extent of ground. The Chippeways are well disposed towards the whites, but excessively fond of spir- itors liquors. Algonquins consisting of two bands ; Algonquins of Rat7iy lake are computed to* have one hundred warriors, and three hundred souls. They live about Rainy hke. Rainy lake river and the Lake of the Woods. They live very much in detached small parties ; are well disposed towards the whites, and deal principally in birch canoes. Algonquins of the Portage de Prairie have two hundred warriors, and about six hundred people. They are emigrants from the Lake of the Woods, and live in a low, flat country, on Red river, and the Assinniboins, where there is an abundance of game* I \\t^ m n«>«o^4k«-k tf^Art __ ^ =-"-• -_•£.-! i=v-«ii-w-vc, \ji xi.ijjoiciiau3, ur v^rca In- dians, are a wandering nation, on the heads of ^- i/-_:_4. us Xki:i3lCii*iU3. 139 Assinniboin, and towards the Saskashawan river ; do not cultivate, but take and traffic in beaver, otter, lynx, wolverine, mink, marten, wolf, small fox or kitts, dressed elk, and moose deer skins. They have three hundred warriors, and one thousand souls. Their language differs but little from the Chippeways, and have probably an affin- ity to that nation. These people sometimes visit Fort Dauphin mountains ; are not esteemed good beaver hunters ; are well disposed to the whites, and treat their traders with respect. The A-lan-sar, or Fall Indians, are supposed to have six hundred and sixty warriors, and xwo thousand five hundred people ; reside on the south fork of the Saskashawan river, and streams supposed to be branches of the Missouri. They trade with the northwest company ; the country over which they rove is net much known. The Cattanahaws is a wandering nation, near the Fall Indians ; their number is not aaser- tained. ^i 4 . The Tut-see-was or Flat-head Indians live on the west side of the Rocky mountains, on waters supposed to run into the Columbia river. The most that is known of the Flat-heads, is from the Minetares, or Grossventres, who are at war with them, and often take prisoners. They say that this nation resides in one village on the west side of a large and rapid river, which runs from south 10 noi ih, at the foot of Rocky mountains. Their 140 mumber is not ascertained ; are a timid, inofifen- -.ive people, nnd possess an abundance of horses. The Aliatans are divided into three bands; of which there are several subdivisions* Aliatans, So-so-na, Snake Indiana^ or Gens des Serpent, are a very numerous, well disposed peo- ple, inhabiting the Rocky mountains on the head of the Missouri, Yellow Stone, and Plate rivers. This band is divided into three large tribes, who wander at a considerable distance from each other ; and are called by themselves, So-so-na, So-so-bu-bar, and I-a-kar. A part of these In- dians live at, and near the falls of the Missouri. They raise a number of horses and muks, and often s.eal them from the nations who Jive east of them. These they sell to the Crow Indians j they also carr> on a partial trade with Spaniards, from whom they receive many articles of cloth- ing and ironmongery, but the Spaniards never supply them with warlike instruments. Their numbers are not known, but are numerous. Aliatans of the West, A-li-a-ta, live among the Rocky mountains, and on the plains at the heads of the Plate and Arkansas rivers. They have more intercourse with the Spaniards of New Mexico, than the Snake Indians, and receive many articles of merchandise from them ; but the Spaniards take the precaution not to furnish them with arms, and yet, in their unarmed state, tney irequcntiy coruniit hosiillilcs. Tlicy arc said to be very numerous, but the number uft- 141 known ; are a warlike people, though badly armed. Thc} have large numbers of horses, asses, and mules, and considerable quantities of bufFaloe, deer, elk, black bear, antelope, and large horses, as well as the skins of many animals of the fur kind. Aliatans, La Plays^ principally inhabit the rich plains, from the head of the Arkansas, embracing the heads of Red river, and extending to the mountains on the borders of Ntyr Mexico. They possess no fire arms, but are warlike and brave ; for the Spaniards fear these people, and take care not to furnish them with the implements of war. Their country abounds with wild horses, and raise immense numbers of horses, asses, and mules themselves. The number of these people is great, but not ascertained. These, as well as all the other Aliatans, are wandering people, and have no fixed place of residence. The Caddo, or Caddoques, residing on Red river, have already been mentioned. These peo- ple, some years ago, left their ancient villages, called Caddo old towns, and settled on another part of Red river, nearer to Natchitoches, where they were visited with sickness, particularly t^e small pox and measles, by which nearly one half of them died. They had the small pox in the winter season, and as soon as the eruption ap- peared, they plunged into the water, which often proved fiUal, in a few hours. The number of warriors of the ancient Caddo is reduced to 142 about one hundred, who are viewed as a distin- guished military order of men ; they have many old men and strangers, who live amongst them, amounting to nearly an equal number with the Caddos. This nation has great influence over the Yattassees, Nandakoes, Nabadaches, Inies, Nagogdoches, Keychies, Adaize, and Natchito- ches, who all speak the Caddo language, look up to them as their fathers, intermarry among them, »nd join them in all their wars. They cultivate corn, beans', pumpkins, melons, and tobacco. The Yattasees live on Bayau Pierre or Stony creek, which falls into Red river fifty miles above Natchitoches. Their village is in a large prairie fifty miles above Natchitoches, and about midway to the Caddos. They are surrounded by a set- tlement of French families ; but the Spanish government exercises jurisdiction over this set- tlement, where they keep a guard of a non-com- missioned officer, and eight soldiers. The French formerly had a station and factory here, and an- other on the Sabine, about one hundrea north- west of this settlement. Of the ancient Yattassees, there are about eight men remaining, and twenty- five women, besides children ; but a number of men of other nations have intermarried, and live with them. They live on rich land ; ra is j plenty of corn, beans, tobacco, and other vegetables : have horses, cattle, hogs, and poultry. The Nandakoes live on the Sabine river, sixty ov sevtnty miles to the w^estwaru, near where the 143 French formerly had a sta.lon and factory. A few years ago they suffered very much by the small pox, and are reduced to about forty men. They consider themselves the same as the Cad- dos, with whom they intermarry; visit one another in the greatest harmony ; have the same manners, customs and attachments. The Adaize live about forty miles from Natch- itoches, on a lake crWed Lac Macdan, which communicates with the division of Red river, that passes by Bayau Pierre. They live whewj their ancestors have lived, time immemorial ; the near- est nation to the old Spanish fort, or Mission Adaize ; only twenty men of them remain, but there are more women. Their language differs from all other, and is said to be so difficult to speak or understand, that no nation can speak ten words of it ; but they all speak Caddo, and most of them French ; to whom they were always attached, and joined ihem against the Natchez Indians, after the massacre of Natchez, in 1^28. While the Spaniards occupied Adaize, some priests attempted to proselyte them to the Roman Catholic religion, but without the smallest success. The Allelic, pronounced Eyeish, reside near Nacogdoches. They were some years ago a considerable nation, and li/ed on a bayau of the same name, about twelve miles west of the Sa- bine river, but the smali pox destroyed the most of them. The nation is now almost extinct, bar- 144 ¥ ing only twenty- five souls remaining. Their native language is spoken by no other nation, but they sp^ak and understand Caddo, with whom they are in friendship. The Keyes, or Keychies, live on the east band of Trinity river, a small distance above where the road crosses from Natchitoches to Saint Antoine. They consist of only sixty men ; have their peculiar language, but speak Caddo j inter- marry with them, and live in great harmony. They plant corn and other vegetables. The Inies, or Tachies, live about twenty-five miles west of Natchitoches, on a small river, which is a branch of the Sabine. This nation, like all their neighbours, is diminished, having only about eighty men ; speak the Caddo lan- guage, and live in amity with them. They possess rich land and raise corn to sell. The Nabedaches reside about fifteen miles above them, on the same river ; consist of about the same number of men ; speak the same lan- guage ; improve the best of land ; raise corn in plenty ,* and have the same customs and habits. The Bedies are on the Trinity river, about sixty miles southward of Nacogdoches. They have about one hundred men, who are good hun- ters of deer, which are very large and plenty about them. Their language differs from all others, but speak Caddo ; are a peaceable, quiet i* ^i._:. people ; auu nave an cxcciicnE cnaracccr lur uicir 145 honesty and punctuality. They plant and raise large crops of corn. The Accokesaws live in a rich and beautifd country, over which they rove, often changing their place of residence; but their ancient town, and where they principally reside, is on the west side of Colerado or Rio Rouge. The deer they kill are said to be remarkably large and fat, of which they have an abundance. Their number of men is about eighty ; they have a language peculiar to themselves ; but they converse much by dumb signs, which they can all readily under- stand. The Mayes live on a large creek, called Saint Gabriel, on the bay of Saint Bernard, near the mouth of Guadaloupe river. They are at per- petual war with the Spaniards, but very friendly to the French. Their number of men are com- puted to be two hundred. They have a language of their own, but speak the Attakapa, and like- wise converse by signs. The Carankouas, inhabit an island, or penin- siila, in the bay of Saint Bernard. They are always at war with the Spaniards, and kill thent whenever they find them ; but kind to the French. They are said to be five hundred men strong ; speak the Attakapa language, and are friendly to all other Indians. On one side of this peninsula is a high bluff, ^_!_ _i? 1 t.?.t- • _ _ ui iiSv;uui.uiu \Ji vOUt, Wfiicn can oe Sccu aiOuie distance at sea* It has been on fire for many 13 146 years ; affording a light by night, 'and a . thick smoke by day, which has deceived and endan- gered vessels approaching the shoal waters on this coast. There is emitted from this burning coal, a guminy substance, which the Spaniards call cheta ; it is thrown on the shore by the surf, and collected in considerable quantities ; it has a strong aromatic smell, and not disagreeable to the taste. It is collected for the purpose of chew- ing, for which the Spaniards have a particular loudness. * The Cances are very numerous, consisting of a large number of different bands, occupy in <^ dif- ferent parts of the country, from the bay of Saint Bernard, cross the river Grand, towards La Vera Cruz* They are unfriendly to the Spaniards, and kill them when they have opportunity j but are strongly attached to the French. They princi- pally use the bow, and are good hunters. These people are very particular in their dress, differ- ing from most of the other Indians. The dress of the men is straight leather leggins, which resem- ble pantaloons, and a leather hunting shirt, or frock. The women dress in a long, loose robe, which so entirely covers them, that nothing but their heads and feet are to be seen. No estimate can be made of the numbers of this nation. The Spaniards made slaves of these Indians, and sold numbers of them to the French at Natchitoches ; i_ ^ .1 • _ -• «ii»„*- •• *- J ' - !_ ■"■• '' DUU tOia practice WaS piuniDiSCu. Dy tuC* iviii^ OI Spain, and those made slaves were emancipated . i4r after which some of the women wh had been servants in good families, and taught spinning, sewing, and household work, married, and be- came respectable, well behaved women. Some of them are still living, and have brought up decent families of children. They have a peculiar lan- guage,* and are understood by signs, in conversing with others. They are at peace with all nations except the Hietans. The Tankaways or Tanks, claim no exclusive right to any tract of land ; are always roving, and have no particular place of abode. They wander ♦>ver the country watered by the Trinity, Braces, and Colerado, towards Saint a Fd. Their num* ber of men are estimated at about two hundred ; are ore horde or tribe ; dress like the Cances j arc good hunters with the bow ; and raise the best breed of horses. They are sometimes eni- mies, and at others, friends to the Spaniards. They plant nothing, but live on meat and wild fruit ; are a strong athletic people, and excellenf: horse men. The Tawakenoes, or Three Canes, reside on the west side of the Braces, and make their usual place of aboad, about two hundred miles west of Nacogdoches, towards Saint a Fe ; but make their excursions as low down as the Great Prai- ries about the Turtle mountain. They are esti- mated at about two hundred men ; are good liiintprs nfinrinnllv wifK tV»f» hnwr hut Viav » cntrrP- 148 guns. They speak the language of the Panls, aad claim the same ancestors. * The Hietans or Comanches have neither towns nor villages, nor any fixed place of residence* They are divided into so many bands or tribes, that they have scarcely any knowledge of one another. No estimate of their numbers can be made. They never reside in the same place more than a ftw days, but constantly follow the buffaloe, which afford them their principal food. They carry their tents with them, which are made of neatly dressed skins, in the form of a cone ; they are large enough for a family of ten oi» twelve persons ; those of the chiefs are larger, and are some of them sufficient for fifty or sixty people. When they encamp, their tents arc pitched in very exact order, so as to form regular streets and squares, which in a few minutes has the^ appearance of a handsome town, raised, as it were, by enchantment ; and they are equally dexterous in striking their tents and preparing to march, when the signal is given. They allot two horses or mules to every tent, one to carry the tent, and the other the poles used in setting it up, which are neatly made of red cedar. They all travel on horse back. They never turn their horses loose to graze, but keep them tied with a long halter ; and every two or three days they are obliged to move, to find grass for the support Tiutnber. They have fine horses, and are excel< 149 lent horse men. Most of their horses are bred by themselves, and by handling, them when very young they are remarkably docile and gentle. Sometimes wild horses are caught and tamed, which are every where amongst them in large droves. They hunt down the bufFaloe on horse back, and kill them either with the bow, or a sharp wooden spear, which they carry in their hands. They are said, when they kill a buffaloe, to catch and drink the blood, while it is warm; they likewise eat the liver raw, before it is cold, and use the gall for sauce* They are, for savages, uncommonly neat and clean in their persons and dress. The women wear a long, loose robe, which reaches from the chin to the ground, with a fancy sash or girdle around the waist, all made of neatly dressed leather, on which they paint figures of different colours and significations. The dress of the men is close leather pantaloons, and a hunting frock, made of leather. They cultivate no vegetables, but they season their food with a small cayenne pepper, which grows spontaneously in the country, and some wild herbs. They also make use of wild fruits, particularly a bean, which grows in great plenty on a small tree, resembling a willow, called masketo. With these articles the women will cook their buffaloe beef in a man- ner highly grateful to the taste. They occupy alternately a vast extent of country from the Trin- ?.-. xk »« tVi*. hnaH of Red river, and Arkan- sas, to the Missouri, River Grand, ab^ut Saint a la* isa Fe, and over the mountains, to the waters of the western ocean. They say, they have seen big peroques, with masts, which they describe by drawing a ship and the sails and rigging. Their language sounds different from that of any other nation, and none can either speak or understand it ; but they have a language by signs, whch can be understood by all Indians ; and which they use much in conversing among themselves. They are generally at war with the Spaniards, and often commit depredations on the inhabitants of Saint a F6, and Saint Antoine ; but have always been friendly to the French or Americans, who have been among them. They have a number of Spanish men and women among them ; who are slaves, and who were made prisoners when they were young. The following story is related by an elderly gentleman, living at Natchitoches, who formerly carried on a trade with this natipn. A number of years ago, a party of these Indians passed over the River Grand, to Chewawa, the residence of the governor-general of what is called the fiv« internal provinces ; lay in ambush for an oppor-» tunity, and made a prisoner of the governor's daughter, a young lady, as she was going in hey coach to mass, and brought her off. The gover- nor sent a message to this gentleman, with a thousand dollars, fcr the purpose of recovering -iis -visiigiitef ; he immediateiy dispatched a co^t- fidential trader, then in his employ, with tl»e tsi 3 of the ;en big ribe by Their ly other ierstand hch can ch they I. They ad often sf Saint ^8 been lo have iber of who are en they elderly )rmerly (lumbep ed over :nce of lie fiv0 oppor^ ernor'i in hev gover- w^ith a >vering' a coi>« th tt>e amount of the thousand dollars in merchandise, \trho repaired to the nation, and after he had found her, purchased her ransom ; but to his great sur- prise, she refused to return with him to her fath- er, and sent by him the following message : that the Indians had dis€gured her face, by tattooing it according to their fancy and ideas of beauty, and a young man of them had taken her for hia wife, by whom she belfeved herself pregnant ; that she had become reconr.iled to her mode of life, and was well treated by her husband ; and that she should be more unhappy by returning to her father, under these circumstances, than by remaining where she was. Which message waa conveyed to her father, who rewarded the trader by a present of three hundred dollars more for his trouble and fidelity ; and that, at the time of relating this account, his daughter was living with her Indian husband, in the nation, by whom she had had three children. The Natchitoches nation formerly lived, whcres the town of Natchitoches is now situated, which took its name from them. About one hundred years ago, when the French began their settle- ment in this town, this nation had six hundred , men. They became attached, to French. people* and have ever ham their steady and faithful friends. After the massacre of the French inhab- itants of Natchez, by the Natchez Indians, ia . .«, » J* o^ji r *u_ f-^ u _r<.^— the French were reinforced, and came up Red 152 river, and camped about six miles below the town of Natchitoches, near the river, by the side of a small lake of clear water, and erected a mound of earth, of considerable size, where it now re- mains. Monsieur Saint Dennie, a French Ca adian, was then commandant at Natchitochf the Indians called him the Big Foot, were fond of him, for he was a brave man. Saint Dennie, with a few French soldiers, and what militia he could muster, joined by the Natchitoches Indians, attacked the Natchez Indians in their camp, early in the morning ; they defended themselves desperately for six hours, but were at length to- tally defeated, and what were not killed in bat- tle, were drove into the lake, were the last of them perished, and the Natchez, as a nation, be- came extinct. This lake is now called Natchez take. Since that time the Natchitoches nation have decreased, until their remains only twelve men, and nineteen women, who live in a village about twenty-five miles above the town, near a lake called by the French Lac de Muire. The small pox has been their great destroyer. Their ori- ginal language is the same as the Yattassee, but speak Caddo and French. The French inhabit- ants highly respect this nation, and a number of decent families have a mixture of their blood in them. They still preserve their Indian dress, and habits ; raise corn and the other vegetables' common in their neighbourhood.^ 153 There arc the remains of several more nations, who are become nearly extinct, inhabiting in dif- ferent parts of this country, who are mostly emi^ grants from the eastern side of the Mississippi. The Boluxas, from Pensacola, live on Red river, at the mouth of Rigula de Bandieu, who are re- duced to about thirty men. They are an honest, harmless, and friendly people. The Appalache^ from West Florida, live above bayau Rapide, and consist of only fourteen men. The AlVtbamis came from West Florida, consist of seventy men, of whom thirty have settled near the Caddoques, and forty in Appelousa district. Conchattas arc from West Florida, call their number one hun- dred and sixty men, and are settled on the River Sabine. Several families live in detached settle- ments, which they say will make their number two hundred men. Pacanas arc also emigrants from West Florida, are a small tribe of about thirty men, and live on the Quelqueshoe river. Attakapas^ a name which is said to mean man- eater, but no more applicable to this tribe, than that of any other Indians. Their number, inclu- ding some Tunicas and Humas Indians, who have intermarried and live with them, is about eighty men. They are peaceable and friendly to every body, and are settled between Attakapa church af>d the Quelqueshoe river. The Appelousa^ which means black head or black skull, have about forty men, are natives of the district called by their name, and live west of Appelousa church. Tunicas do not exceed twonty-five men, and live at Avoyall. Pascagolas from West Florida, have only twenty- five men, and live in a small village on Red river. Tenisaws are emigranti from Tenesau river, which falls into the bay of Mobile, are reduced to twenty-five men, and live on bayau Beauf. Chactooa live on the same bayau; are aborigines of th^ country where they live, and are diminished to about thirty men. Washaa are reduced to two men and three women, and live in French families. The Chuctaws have two villages, one consisting of thirty, and the other of fifty men, in the district of Appelousa, besides jambling hunting parties, in different parts of the country. They are at war with the Caddoquea, and not liked by either red or white people. The Arkansas^ who claim :hree hundred miles on that river, but live in three villages, are supposed not to exceed three hundred men. They speak the Osage language, but are at war with that na- tion. They raise corn to sell, and are called an honest and friendly people. These Indian nations reside, or rove in their hunting and trading excursions, within what has been conjectured to be the limits of Louisiana. In ascertaining their numtvrs, it was unavoidably necessary, in many instances, to depend on In- dian information ; but it is presumed that the number of warriors, which is generally given in even numbers, is not far from being correct; and calculating on the best data that could be obtain- iss cd, the souls are probably estimated rather below, than above their real number. In constructing the following table, for the pur- pose of giving a collected view of the number of each nation, and an aggregate of the whole of those nations which are so numerous, and so di- vided and subdivided into bands and parties, that their numbers could not be known by any infor- mation the Indians were able to give, are pre- sumed to be, at least, equal to the Great and Lit- tle Osage nation, and their numbers are assumed i and those nations of whom only the number of men are ascertained, the number of souls are calculated in about the same proportion to the number of warriors, with those of the other na- tions. u« ■•} Indian jyatiens. Great and Little Osage, Kanzas, Missouris, Ottoes, Panis Proper, Panis Republican or Big- Paunch, Panis Loups, or") Wolf Indians, 3 Malta, Pancars, liicaras, "Ms lans, Ahwahhawa, Minetares, or Grossventres, Ayauwais, Saukees, Renars, or Fox Indians, Sioux, (ten bands) Chten, or Dog Indians, Wetepahatoes and Kiawas, Ivenenavisli, Staetan, or Kites, Kata, Nemousin, or Allebome, Botame, Castahana, ' Keehatsa, or Crow Indians, Allakaweah, or 7 Paunch Indian^, 3 Assinniboin consisting 1 of three bands, 3 Chippeways, three bands, Algx)nquins, two bands, Christenoes, or Cree Indians, Alansar, or Fall Indians, Cattananaws, (supposed to be) Tutsee, or Flat Head, Alitans, or Snake In- 7 dians, (supposed,) y Caddoques, Yattasees, Nandakoes, Adaize, Aliche, IT ^s«r^«S Inieii, Warriort. Soula^ 2000 8000 300 1200 80 300 120 500 400 1600 300 S80 300 50 500 50 600 200 500 800 2590 300 200 400 100 75 SO SO 1300 900 800 900 80 1400 1000 GuO 200 2000 1250 200 2500 800 2000 1200 reio 1200 roo 1500 400 300 200 120 5000 3500 2300 3100 700 •2650 300 900 300 1000 660 2500 600 2000 300 900 000 8000 100 400 8 57 40 160 30 85 8 25 60 t^4f\ -'/TV/ 320 157 Indian J^'ationt. Warriors. Soulti Nabedaches, 80 320 Bedies, 100 400 Accokesaws, 80 320 i ]Mayes, 200 800 Carankouas, 500 1200 Cances, (numerous") supposed to be,) y 2000 800O Tankaways, or Tanks, 200 800 Tawakenoes, or Three Canes, 200 800 Hietans, (numerous^ supposed to be,) ^ 2000 8000 Natchitoches, 12 65 Boluscas, 30 120 Appalaches« 14 56 AlUbamis, TO 280 Conchattas, 2U0 800 Pacanas, 300 1200 Atiakapas, 80 300 Appelousa, 40 160 ; Tunicas, 25 100 Pascagolas, 25 100 Tenisaws, 25 100 1 Chactoos, 30 120 ; Washas, men 2, wamen 3, 2 5 Chactaws, 80 320 Arkansas, 300 1200 25,741 94,403 14 THE JOURNAL OF Mr. CHARLES LE RAYE. In the year 1801, I left Canada with an adven- ture of goods, to trade on the Missouri. I ar- rived at the French settlement on the Illinois, early in September, and concluded to ascend the Osage river, and to trade with the Osage nation. Here I procured two additional hands, which completed my complement of six men besides my self. As soon as my perioque was linised, wc embarked. On the 21st of September, I entered the mouth of the Missouri, and as the waters were low, we ascended with ease. On the 7th of October, entered the Osage river, and ascended seven miles, where we en- camped to hunt, and procure meat. Nothing ma- terial occured until the 23d, whe/ ve had ascend- ed within sixty miles of the Osi.ge village, and had encamped for the night, at a small stream, 5 u up VI ft"- ordered the men, who were iu a tent on the shore, 159 « to keep a watch, as usual, anil retired to the pe- rioque to sleep. Just before day, I was awaked by the rushing of a number of Indians through the brush, and before I could disengage my self and my gun from the buffaloe robe, in which I was enwrapped, an Indian, followed by five or six more, rushed into the boat, and seizing my gun, dragged me on shore. As soon as they had bound me, I was hurried back into the boat, and seven Indians jumping in, they bushed the boat from the shore, and hurried down the river, as fast as they could paddle. I saw a large number on the bank aroui.d the tent. It was so dark I could not distinctly see my men, but heard the voice of one of them speaking to the Indians, in the Osage tongue. From this, I concluded they were Osage Indians. The Indians in the boat proceeded with me down the river about twenty miles, and came to their encampment, kept by four lads, fourteen or fifteen years old. Here they unloaded the boat. I was anxious to know the fate of my men, and about noon was much relieved by seeing them brought in by the rest of the party. The number of Indians now, were forty-six men, and four lads. They immediately collected their horses, fourteen in number, and the goods were loaded on them. We were all bound with buffaloe cords over our arms, and, travelling up the branch, until about midnight, we encamped. When we lay down to sleep, we were secured between two Indians, one 160 of which had the end of the cord with which we were bound, around his body. In the morning, after eating some dried meat, for which purpose our arms were loosened, we pursued a course, north or west, and leaving the creek, we crossed several ridges covered with grass, but entirely destitute of timber. About noon we crossed a small stream, a branch of the stream we had ascended, and encamped on it, at night. On the 25th of October, we travelled through a country somewhat broken, and destitute of timber, but game was very plenty, and two deer were shot. At night we encamped by an excellent spring. There being no wood, we kindled a fire with dry weeds, and broiled meet for our suppers. On the 26th we set forward early, and contin- uing a west course, came to a stream of water which one of my men, who had been on the Missouri, said, was a branch of Mine river. The country became more level, with some small tim- ber near the water. I now discovered that the Indians were not Osage, but a party of Sioux, of the Bois Bucil band. We encamped on the branch, and on rich land. On the 27th, we con- tinued down the stream until we came to a small j}ath, where the land was covered with high grnss and weeds. We encamped at the mouth of the stream. On the 28th, we crossed the stream, and proceeded a west course to Mine river, and crossing the river, we encamped on the west side, on rich land, covered with large timber. Here 161 we tarried part of the clay to hunt, having no other provision than some corn, taken from the perioque. During the day the cords were taken from our arms. The guns and ammunition taken from the perioque were sufficient to furnish the Indians, so that most of them were well armed, and only a few of them made use of their bows. On the 29th, we left Mine river, and continued a west course until we came to a large beaten path, which was the Kanzas war path to the Missouri. We continued in the path a few miles, and left it to the right. We encamped on a small run, with scarcely water sufficient to quench our thirst. P'oceeding early on the 30th, we trav- elled through a level, rich country destitute of timber. At this time my feet, and the feet of some of my men, had become so sore as scarcely to be able to walk. Coming to a branch of the Kanzas river, we encamped. As soon as the camp was made, a keg of rum Taken from the perioque was broached, and soon all the Indians, except the * chief, four warriors and the four lads, were drunk. After a very noisy night, towards morning they fell a sleep. They had taken great care to secure us before they began to drink. In the hurry last evening to taste the rum, they had neglected to give us any thing to eat. This morning, (31st), our appetites were of course good, as we had not tasted any thing but water and a little spirit since the preceding morning. We therefore cat an hearty breakfast, and assisted in loading the 14=* Miimi^mi 162 horses. The Indians after they awoke were again for tasting the spirits, but this being opposed by the chief, and the horses being loaded, we pro- ceeded. Continuing our course down a branch of the Kanzas, started a drove of buffaloe, con- sisting of two or three hundred. The Indians killed six, and then encamped on the branch. I expected the rum would have been broached, but their debauch the night before seemed to have satisfied them. Here they informed us, that in two days we should arrive at the camp where their w^^ppMCn were. Nove^iber 1st, we continued down the branch. Snow fell some depth last night. Proceeded early on the 2d, and found the country somewhat hilly, but destitute of timber, except near the water. On the 3d, it rained, and we continued in the camp. Three meti were sent forward to notify the band of our approach. Towards noon the weather cleared up, and we proceeded about six miles, and met the whole band, consisting of about two hundred men, women and children. As scon as the chief discovered the band, he set up the yell, and, was answered by the band, which formed two lines, opening to the right and left, and we were led between them. Some of the children shewed a dispositon to insult us, but were prevented by the men. The whole pro- ceeded to the encampments, where the tents were all standing in two rows, faci!)g each other. Un- der different circumstances I should have been 163 pleased with the appearance. But at this time my mind was occupied with anxiety abou. my fate, and that of my co ipauions, expecting to be tomehawked or burned. On our arrival we were taken to the centre of the encampment, where the two chief tents were situated, and my self and companions put into the tents belonging to the chief who had ^aken us* The goods were un- loaded and distributed among the Indians. While this was doing, a Frenchman came into the tent and spoke t me, which much revived my spirits. As soon as he had learned that we were all French- men, he left us ; but soon returned with the con- soling news that we sliould be well treated. The chief soon after came in, ordered us unbound, and that some leat should be given us to eat. His squaws were now bringing in his share of the goods. The chief seated himself, and then the other chief and the warriors came in, and after lighting their pipes, entered into a long conversa- tion, in the Sioux tongue, with the Fenchman. As soon as the conversation ended, my men were distributed among the warriors, and I was retain- ed by the chief who took me. The name of the Frenchman, who resided with this people, was Pardo. He informed me no further injury was intended me, or my men. He also informed me that this was a party that went in pursuit of some Osage Indians, who, a short time before, had killed some of their band, and that their meeting with me was accidental ; but suspecting me to be 164 taking goods and arms to the Osage Indians, their enemies, they took me. In the evening the rum was again broached. Two kegs of high proof spirits had been taken from the perioque, which contained about twelve gallons each. I was di- rected not to leave the tent. Early in the morning of the 4th, I went out and found all still. At the farther part of the encampment, where the liquor was drank, I saw the horrid effects of their last night's debauch. The wood, weeds, and almost every thing, was covered with blood. While I was viewing the scene, an Indian came to me, and bid me begone. I therefore immediately returned to the tent. Soon after Mr. Pardo came in and told me the Indians had been very drunk, and had fought with their knives. Three of them were badly wounded, and one very dangerously. I was permitted to take several small articles from the chiefs share of the goods, among which were rsiy papers, a razor and a lappo coat. These I procured through the influence of Mr. Pardo. He informed me that in a few days the band would go to the Ri- carus village, wliere more of the band were. This camp in whi^h we now were, was situated on a lage fork of the Kanzas, on the edge of a prairie. The tents were made of buffaloe skins dressed, and painted with a variety of rude figures, which at a distance made a handsome appearance. Each tent was set up in form of a cone, by means of a pole about twelve feet long, with the skins tied 165 round it, at the top, and spread out at the bottom. The doors of the tents were made facing each other, before which they made a fire, and some times one in the tent. It was several days be- fore the wounded Indians could be moved, and during our stay the Indians killed a deer, which iS called the long tailed deer. It was larger than the red deer, of a darker colour, and with a white belly. Its horns are short, small and somewhat flat ; its tail nearly eighteen inches long. They are said to be plenty in these plains. The wounded Indians having so far recovered as to be able to be transported, on the 12th, we prepared for our departure, and removed a few miles. The Indians now treated me with a much greater degree of hospitality, than, from their former conduct, I had any reason to expect. On the 13th, we continued our course to the Kanzas river. This is a handsome stream, about twice as wide as the Osage, and flows through a rich country, but mostly destitute of timber, except on the water courses. We crossed it about forty miles from the mouth. The Kanzas nation of Indians reside near its head waters. On the 14th, continued a northwest course in a well beaten path, and the country somewhat hilly. The 15th, crossed a small stream of water run- ning to the northwest, the land hilly, without timber. From this time to the 20th, very little difi'erence in the appearance of the country. On the 20th, came to a branch of the river La 166 Plate. The land now became rich and level, with wood 5i( ar the water. Here the Indians sepjuate^ii, md about one hundred and fifty di- rected their course towards the Missouri, with whom all my men were taken. Mr. Pardo, my- seli^, the chief who took me, and the rest of the Indians, contiuued our course towards the Rica- ras village. On the 24th, came to the River La Plate. This is a rapid stream, not less than three forths of a mile in width. It comes from a great dis- tance from towards the south. The Panis, Ottoes, Missouri and Wolf Indians, live on the waters of this river, and are all at war with the Sioux. On the 25th, we crossed the river whh great dif- ficulty and danger, owing to the running of the ice. On the 26th, some of the squaws made them- selves carriages, to transport their baggage, by lashing three or four bars to the ends of two slim poles, and yoking a dog to the poles. A dog, in this manner, will draw about seventy pounds. The snow was now about eight inches deep. We continued our course on the 27th, northwest- erly. Here the country became more broken, ascending into ridges. There were a considera- ble number of elk, buffaloe, cabree or antelope, and deer, and very little timber to be seen on these ridges. Nothing material occurred until the 2d day of December, when we came to the Missouri, 167 and crossed it near the mouth of the Little Pioux. We continued our course on the north side of the Missouri, often near it, until we arrived at the lodges, on the Sioux river, which was on the 8th, where we prepared to spend the remainder of the winter. It was found that several of the Indians had got frozen. They were very slightly clothed, having nothing more than a buffaloe robe, or a deer, or cabree skin, thrown over their shoulders, with only leggins, their moccasons being worn out. The weather was now very se- vere, and the lodges illy calculated to shelter us from it. We covered and patched them up, as well as we could, with dry grass and willow branchea. In the centre an opening was made, ten feet in length, and eighteen inches in width, for the purposes of letting out the smoke, and let- ing in the light. The doors were made close with buffaloe skins. During the night, the horses are sheltered under the same cover with the peo- ple, being only separated by a pole. They are fed in the night on willow and button wood branches, and in the day time are turned out to graze on whatever chey can find to eat. These Indians are the dirtiest creatures on earth. They bring their water for themselves and their horses, ui the paunches of the deer and cabree, which are never cleansed more than what is done by constant use. Their meat is cooked WTU. kU„.. u^'.^ i4 ' ~ wiwU «>*£w y iJUki 2^1 they continue the boiling until it caa be eaten 168 with a spoon, throwing in a handful of corn, if they have it, with a small quantity of bear's oil ; but make use of no seasoning of any kind. When it is ready to eat, the whole company, with ten or fifteen dogs, gather round it, and each one strives to get his share. They have no set times for their meals, but it seems to depend on the calls of hunger, and a disposition to prepare the food. An animal is found in these plains, called le prairie chein, or prairie dog. It is smaller than the grey fox, and formed much like the dog. Its ears are pointed and stand erect, and the whole head very much resembles the dog. Its tail is long, slim, and of a dur: colour. It digs holes and burrows in a light, loamy soil, and in the same holes, a small speckled snake takes shelter, which the Indians call the dog's guard. The In- dians have many superstitious notions respecting these dogs. The Ay-oo-wars, or Nespeirce na- tion have a tradition that the human race sprang from this dog and the beaver. All other nations hold them in great veneration. A kind of deer were frequently killed here, called mule deer. It is smaller and of a darker colour than the red deer, having large, branched horns. The ears are very large ; the tail about five inches long, with short dark hair, and at the end, a tuft com- posed of long, black hair. A species of the badcer. called nrarovir. inhahitfi tKieai* niaina. Ita head much resembles the dog; leg* short and 169 very thick in prr(,onif,n to its body, armed with long, sharp clvvs, v -il adapted to digging. The size of the br . nriewhat exceeds the ground hog; hairoiada. jrown colour, and tail, bushy, resembling tha*- ' .he ground hog. It burrows and lodges in luc ground. In the latter part of winter we were much dis* tressed for food. Hunting became bad, and game scarce. We had often nothing more than one poor dog boiled, to feed twenty for a day, and sometimes for a much ionger space of time. The Indians are fond of dog's flesh, and at their feasts use no other kind of meat. During the winter, a few fish were taken in the river. These were principally the cat fish. To my great satisfaction, on the 20th of March, J 802, we left this camp of filth and misery, where we had remained from the 8th of December, and proceeded towards the Ricaras, or Rus, as the traders call them. Some of the Indians had prepared themselves sleighs to ride in, which were made in the following manner. A slender frame was made of small sticks, woven together, about three feet in length, and the sides about eight inches high. Over this frame, deer or ca- bree skins were drawn tight, and came over the upper part, forward, about eighteen inches. It was then placed on two runners, made of bent poles, to the end of which was fastened two slim noles for 8h»ft: Wlin1f> wae cor>iifA#1 tnn.^^Ua'm \J-^f.-XlZ \.^^ fw'J by buffaloe cords. Two dogs were then yoked 15 iro to the shiifts, one before the other, and the rider Tilaccs himself in the sleigh, with his feet under the covered part. He then guides the foremost dog by a line fastened round his neck, and in this manner the dogs will draw him with great ease. We arrived on the banks of the Missouri, near the salt springs, on the 23d, and being unable to cross the river on account of the ice, which be- gaa to break up, we continued up the river to where the ice remained firm, and well secured by a sand bar in the middle of the river. Here we crossed, and proceeded up to White river, about twenty miles, where we arrived on the 27th, and encamped. On the 29th, we removed up the White river, sixteen miles, to hunt. The snow now began to disappear, and the plains were cov- ered with game. Here no timber was to be seen except on the water courses, where a few willows, elm, and button wood grew, but the appearance of the soil was rich. A small party of Rus, joined us at this camp, and on the 6th of April, we crossed White river, which is about one hun- (^red and fifty yards wide, and continued our journey towards the Rus village. On the 9t1i,, we encamped on Tyler's creek ; and on the 12th, we arrived opposite Tuton river. Here we left the Missouri, and proceeded a west course to the River Chein, or Dog river. On this route we travelled through a broken country, destitute of wood, and badly watered. We arrived at the Chein river on the 14th,and immediately crossed it in the rider et under foremost id in this eat ease, uri, near unable to hich be- river to :cured by Here we er, about l7th, and 1 up the rhe snow vere cov- 3 be seen willows, )pearance of Rus, 3f April, one hun- lued our I the 9t1i, the 13th, e we left rse to the route we isiitute of ed at the crossed it in buffaloe canoes. The river is nearly half a mile wide, and as the Indians informed me, flows through a plain, ^evel country, for several hun- dreds of miles, mostly destitute of timber. On the head waters riside several tribes of Indians, with which the Sioux are at war. The most powerful of these tribes are the Chein, or Dog- Indians. There are also the Gens-di-rach^ or Kananawesh, the Kites and Dotame, besides bands of the Mahas, Pancars, and Kataka, We met with a camp of the Rus Indians, who were hunting, and continued here until the 18th, when they joined us, and we proceeded to the villages about sixty miles, travelling through a country destitute of timber, and interspersed with large hills. On the 22d, arrived at the lower village and joined several camps of Sioux and Dog In- dians. The Ricaras or Rus, have three villages, situated on the south bank of the Missouri, in the great bend of the river. The lower village is on a large bottom, covered with cotton wood, and contains about fifty huts. These huts were built in a diff tent manner, and were more comfortable habitations, than any Indian huts I had before seen. To build their huts, they cut four forked posts, which are set up fifteen feet high. Two of these posts stand eighteen inches apart, and two stand at the distance of ten feet from the other two posts, and ten feet from each other, on which two ridge poles are placed. Around these posts they er^^ct sixteen forked ports more, ir2 I six feet high, which are so placed as to form a circular figure, eighteen feet in diameter. On the front side two more posts, six feet long, arc set up, ten feet from the building, and four feet apart. Short poles are then laid round on these sixteen forks, and on the forks of the two posts which project in front, to connect them with the building. Stakes are then placed in a reclining position, so as to lean against the poles which are placed on the six feet posts, and stand eight or nine inches apart. • At the upper end of these stakes, poles are fastened, so that the other end rests upon the ridge poles. When the frame is thus completed, the whole is covered with willow and cotton wood branches, except an opening between the ridge poles, for the smoke to pass, and the space in the front of the projection, which is left for a door way. Over the branches is laid a covering of long grass, and over the grass, a coat of clay mortar. These huts are placed with great regularity, in two straight rows. The doors in each row front those in the opposite row, so that the huts stand facing each other, with a space of twelve feet be- tween the doors. The town is picketed with pickets, twelve feet high, and set very close, to prevent firing between them. There is one gate way, which is shut at night. These people are much more cleanly in their persons, dress, and food, than the Sioux. Thev are also of a lighter complexion, which is of a irs I form a er. On 3r>g, arc our feet m these Yo posts tvith the ecliuing 1 which id eight j{ these her end raine is willow )pening 3 pass, , which is laid rass, a bright copper colour, with aquiline noses and. black, lively eyes. The women have high cheek bones, oval faces, and "egular features. Both men and women are oi r social, sprightly make. The men are tall and well formed, and the women, though smaller, arc equally well shaped, and rather handsome, than otherwise. Their dress consists of a shift made of dressed deer skins, and reaches from the chin, below the knee, to the mid- dle of the leg, with short sleeves. It is secured round the waist by a belt of wampum. They wear moccasons and leggins, and in the winter a buff'aloe robe, thrown over their shoulders. The men wear a wide strip of leather, about three feet long, which they draw between their legs, and fasten it around the middle by a belt. They have long leggins and moccasons, and a bufFaloe robe over their shoulders. These Indians raise corn, beans, melons, pumpkins and tobacco. Their tobacco differ* from that which is raised by white people. It has a smaller stalk, that grows about eighteen inches high, wi. ri long, narrow leaves, and is only used Ibr tTioking. The Indians never chew, nor snuft ; h"i« CO. They carry on,.at these villa- ges, a considerable commerce with these produr- ticus ; havinp" much more ihanthey want for their ov/r >i>iisvmption. It is a barter trad', with neiglibouring nations, who never cultivate the grounu, tor such articles of European goods, as they have procured at the British establishment^;^ 15* 174 at the falls of Saint Anthony, or from traders ; pnd also for horses, mules, dried meat, and other articles. Their principal customers are the Sioux, the Ghein Indians, Watapahatoes^ Gens-dis-vatch, Kites^ and Dotame, th- most of whom, except the Sioux, reside on the river Chein. This nation was once very numerous, and consisted of ten tribes of the Fa7iis, who reside on the river La Plate, and whose tongue they speak in somewhat of different accent. They have now not much over five hundred warriors ; having been reduced from five thousand warriors, to their present number, in less than thirty years, by the small pox and attacks of their enemies ; particularly by the Sioux, who have got them so far under sub- jection, that they dare not offend them, and are frequently robbed, plundered, and even murdered, without daring to resent it. This information was given me by an old chief of the lower vil- lages. Above the Sioux river, and between that and the River Sacque, is a small hill, destitute of timber, which the natives say is inhabited by spirits, in shape of human beings, of a very- diminutive size, not being, according to their de- scription, more than six or eight inches high. Respecting these bodily spirits they have a num- ber of ridiculous fancies. An old chief told me, with great gravity, that the occasion of their com- ing and living on this hill, was, because the In- dians, a great many winters ago, were so wicked 175 and f'oolish, as to strive to kill all the animals made for their use. The Great Spirit saw them from above, and was so angry with them that he sent these little beings, which the Indians call Wakons, to drive all the animals out of the coun- try, which they did, ani many of the Indians starved for want of food. But after much entreaty and many sacrifices, the anger of the Great Spirit was appeased, and he permitted the animals to return ; but directed the Wakons to reside on this hill, to watch the conduct of the Indians, and should they again be so wicked, they are to drive all the animr' , never to return. This impres- sion has ha xcellent effect on the natives, ad it prevents Ci. .»,seless waste of what is so necessary for their subsistence. The} pretend often to see these little beings on, and about the hill, as they are passing, but no consideration would induce an Indian to set his foot on this holy ground. The lower village, on the 20th of May, held their great feast. Two days previous notice was given by their principal chiefs. There being a number of camps of different tribes, they were all invited to join, and in the morning of the festi- val, were dressed out in their best attire, and made ^^o indifferent appearance. Their faces were tiaiibed with a variety of paints. Their ears, noses and hair, were full of silver ringoi, and of silver and glass trinkets; with silver breast plates ; and a multitude cf beads, hanging round their necks. Their hair was also filled with the ire feathers of the eagle, and other large birds, Bandayes full of brooches were tied round their foreheads. Their clothes neatly worked with por- cupine quills and beads, and large wampum belts around the middle. Their moccasons and leg- gins strung with bits of brass and beads, worked full of porcupine quills and horse hair dyed red. In this finical, gaudy dress, they all assembled in a place prepared for the purpose, near the village^ in the fore part of the day. The men only par- take of the feast, but the women are distant spectators ; for they are never suffered to eat with the men, neither at feasts, aor in their own fami- lies, when strangers are present. This, however, does not prevent them from decorating themselves for the occasion. After all had assembled, the head chief of the village addressed the company in an impressive speech, in which he informed them, that it had been a practice, time immemo- rial, to celebrate the return of the spring, by a feast to the Great Spirit. He recommended to them peaceable and friendly behaviour, and told them, that as the Great Spirit had given them an unclouded sky, he was well pleased with their in- tention, and that each one should be careful not to offend him by improper conduct. After the address, the company were seated, and the head chief opened his medicine bag, from which he drew iae sacred stem or pipe. This he placed on the forked sticks set in the ground before him for the purpose. Fire was then brought, and he 2 birdsT nd their 'ith por- im belts and leg- worked ycd red. ibled in village^ nly par- distant sat with n fami- owever, mselves led, the Jmpany formed imemo- 5r by a ided to nd told Iiem an leir in- iful not fter the le head lich he placed re him and he irr lighted the pipe, and blowed the smoke to the east, south, west, and north; after which he handed the pipe to the chief next to him, on the right, who smoked two or three whiffs and passed it to the next, and so on, until it had gone round the company. The provisions were now brought forward, composed entirely of dog's flesh, and placed be- fore the great chief, and each one sent his dish to him, in turn; for before they came, everyone took care to provide a dish for himself. Some of the youth attended as waiters to the company. The greatest order and regularity was observed during the feast. Each one considered himself obliged to eat all that was sent him j but at such feasts it is seldom more than they can devour in a few minutes. As soon as the feast was ended, fire was brought, and the whole commenced smoking, which was continued for about an hour. The smoking then ceased and the dance com- menced. Their music consisted of beating on buffaloe skins, shaking dried prarow and marten skins, tied up, in a form to contain small stones, and beating on a kind of drum, made by stretch- ing a skin, dressed like parchment, over the end of a hollow log about four feet long, which is joined with the singing of the company. Their songs are a rehearsal of the exploits of themselves and their ancestors, and is accompanied with a variety of antic gestures. In all their movements they keep exact time ; dance in a circle around a 178 'fire, never taking hold of hands, nor touching one another, unless by accident. The dance contin- ued until near morning. When the dance was closed, all retired to their respective quarters, perfectly quiet and peaceable. Although the company consisted of not less than a thousand people, of different nations, and some of whom were mortal enemies to others, there was not the least confusion heard during the day or night. The Indians are extravagantly fond of gam- bling, and spend most of their leisure hours in it. The game they appear most attached to is played with eight bones, of the size of a man's finger, of an oval form, three fourths of an inch long, with four square sides, two of which are coloured black and red. They are placed on wooden trenchers, or oval platters. From this dish the bones are tossed into the air, and then caught in the dish. Thry whi or lose according to the number of a certain colour, previously agreed upon, being uppermost, until the game is finished, which is always forty-five. Two bands or parties will play at this game, the loser rising and letting one of his party take his place, until the whole band has had a part in the game. They often play for all the property they possess, and after losing that, set up their wives and childrt*^, for they are considered the men's property, as much as their arms, or any thing thi-y possess. Another game is played by means of small sticks, five inches long, of the size of a goose quill, neatly iro • • polished and marked with red and black lines. Forty of these sticks are divided between the two persons who play. One wraps up a part of his sticks in grass, the other matches a part of his to them. If they agree in number or colour of the lines, the one that matches wins five, or otherwise loses the same number. The game is always forty. On the 18th of May, several parties of Indians arrived from the river Chein, for the purpose of trading, consisting of Dog Indians^ Gefis-dis-valc/Lf Kaermis, and Kales. A trader likewise came in from the Assinniboin river. They all assembled at the village, at the mouth of the Warriuna riv- er, and our camp moved up to the same village. The trader soon procured what furs of any value they had to dispose of, and departed. Mr. Pardo, having procured a supply of ammunition, proposed to ascend the Missouri, on a hunting expedition with a party of Grossventres'^^ with whom he was connected by marriage. His wife was the daughter of the chief of this nation. He applied to the chief of our camp, to whom I belonged, whose name is Man-di-tongue-go, for liberty for \^ ^^M •* Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. HS80 (716) 872-4503 ^^* # 182 tasted, and then a bowl full of it was presented to the dead man. He was then taken up by four men and carried outside of the village, just into the edge of the woods, and placed on a stage which had been previously erected, about ten feet high. The bowl of food wis brought and set by his head, and his arms and accoutrements laid by his side. In this manner their dead are deposited, and are never buried. The wife and relations of the deceased made the most violent and dreadful bowlings, tearing their hair, and ap- pearing to be in the deepest anguish, under the loss they had sustained. The Mandans and Gross- Ventres are of the lightest complexion, and largest Indians on the Missouri. Their hair inclines to a chesnut col- our, and in some instances has a slight curl ; it is never so lank and coarse as most other Indians. Their eyes are full and lively, their cheek bones rather high, and their countenances open ^nd agreeable. The Gross- Ventres have more of a fierce, savage look, than the Mandans who are courteous and sociable in their behaviour. They are neat in their dress, which is similar to that of the Rus, excepting that they decorate it with white rabbit, and white ermine skins. Many of their lodges, or huts, are decorated in a beautiful manner ; having the inside lined with the richest furs, such as the lynx, beaver, otter, white rabbit, martin, fox, mountain cat, and white ermine,sewed together like patch work, which gives them a rich 183 and beautiful appearance. The lodge of the head chief was sixty feet in diameter, elegantly lined with furs, and the seats, which are also used as beds, were covered with the grizzly bear and buf- faloe skins. These people keep their lodges and buildings in a state of great neatness. They cul- tivate the same kind of produce with the Rus, and carry on a trade with the roving Indians, who occasionally visit them. The Mandans and Gross- Ventres live in great friendship, although they speak different languages ; and it is neces- sary they should, for their villages are not more than six miles apart. The Mandans speak the same tongue of the Osage, but have a different accent, and dialect. Th^y were once a numerous, warlike people, but have been reduced by the small pox, and by their enemies, the Sioux, to less than four hundred warriors. On the the 13th, we left the Mandans, and ar- rived at the Gross-Ventres village, which is on the lower side of Batteau river, and is called the Mtniture village. Another village, called Men'i- tar'U'mht'Ud-tah^ ia situated on he upper side of Batteau river. These villages are larger than the Mandans, built in the same manner, and con- taining about six hundred warriors, und about twenty-five hundred inhabitants. They were formerly more numerous, but the small pox has made its ravages among them. These people deposit their dead in the same manner as the Mandans, but at a greater distance from tKeir vil- 184 lages. Soon after r arrival, a young chief, wha accompanied us, found a young woman, with whom he contracted matrimony, which afforded an opportunity to witness their aiarriage ceremo- nies. Proclamation was made, by one of the re- lations, that on the next day, in the morning, the marriage would be celebrated. The next morn- ing the bride Was dressed in all her finery, and Ihe groom in his richest attire. The company- assembled at her father's lodge, where the chief of the village attended. He informed the com- pany, that the young man, calling him by name, intended to take the girl, calling her by name, to be his wife. He then asked each of them if that were their intention, which each of them answered m the affirmative. The chief then handed them a small rod, which was broken between them. The groom then broke his part into a number of small pieces, and handed them to the men who stood near to him. The bride did the same with her part of the rod, which consumated the mar- riage. Fire was then brought, and the sacred pipe was lighted. After all the men had smoked in it, the dance commenced, which was continued for several hours. As soon as it was finished, the groom took his bride to his lodge to live with him. These people entertain ideas of chastity very different from any civilized nation. If a stranger comes to reside with them in their cabins, for several days, he is presented with the wife or a 185 Jaughter to be his bed-fellow, during his stay* If a girl proves with child, it has no influence to prevent her marriage, and the child is adopted by her husband, and brought up as his own. Their hospitality probably exceeds that of any other people. They share the last mouth full of pro- visions chearfully, with the greatest stranger, and strive to make him as happy and contented as possible. Our party now prepared to set out for the sum- mer and fall hunt, and it was determined to go to the River Jaun or Yellow Stone, and to the Rocky mountain. All things being prepared to set off, the 2d of July was assigned, as is usual among these people, for a day of feasting. The feast was prepared, and the ceremonies conducted in the same manner, as at the Rus village, which has been described* After the smoking rite was fin- ished, the head chief of the village addressed us. He commended u« to the care of the Great Spirit, and all the good subordinate spirits, wishing us a bright sun and clear sky, that we might overcome any . enemy we might meet ; that the evil spirits would not spread sickness among us, and that all of us, in due season, should return to the village, loaded with meat and skins. The day was closed with feasting and dancing. On the 3d of July, the party assembled to the number of forty-three men, women and children ^ nineteen of whom were men, besides Mr. Pardo and myself. We were provided with thirty-si» *6* 186 horses, one I had hired for myself, and Mr. Pardo had two for himself and squaw. About noon we left the village, and proceeded up the Batteau river, until we passed the second large fork, and then we crossed it to the north side. The river here was about an hundred yards wide, and ford- able. The country was barren and hilly. On the 7th, we came to Salt springs, where buffaloe and cab- ee were very plenty ; and the country much infested with wolves, which were very rav- enous. Some Indians had very lately removed from this place. We supposed them to have been some of the Gens-di-foulers^ who live three miles below the Gross-Ventres, on the Missouri. We occupied their camp, and continued here until the 9tii, when we proceeded a western course, crossing a barren country destitute of timber. On the 10th, we came to a branch of the Jaun, called Road river, and followed this branch down to its mouth; where, on the 15th, we arrived at the River Jaun, and encamped in a cotton wood grove. The country near the Jaun is more level, and some of the intervals are very rich ; but large barren hills are to be seen at a distance from the river. A party of the Gens-des-corbeau^ or Crow Indians, had lately encamped at this place, and their tent poles accommodated us. The river is about half a mile wide, and shallow, but not ford- able. We supposed ourselves about a hundred miles from the mouth. Here we caught a number of very fine fish, mostly pike and cat. On the . Pardo oon we 3atteau rk, and le river d ford- ^. On sufFaloe :ountry ;ry rav- :moved i^e been e miles i. We intil the rossing On the called n to its i at the 1 wood e level, at large •om the »r Crow ce, and river is ot ford- lundred number On the nOC£:Y.MOUjVTAJJV >^M£JsiJ>. 18T 1 8th, we crossed the Jaun, and passed up to the mouth of the stream, called by the Indians, La- ca-sha-newatu, or Crooked river, where, on the 19th, we encamped. The Jaun is a noble stream, somewhat rapid, the bottom sandy, and the water clear; excepting when rain falls, and then it becomes immediately thick from the earth that is washed into it from the barren hills. Many of these hills are so washed, and become so steep, that no animal can ascend the»n, except the cabree ani mountain ram, or rocky mountain sheep. The grizzly or white bear, is plenty in this country, and often attacks the natives. We continued at this camp until the 29th, and then proceeded up Crooked river, and encamped near the first ridge of moun- tains. Here 've killed several of these rocky mountain sheep. The male is considerably larger than the female, and has much longer horns. The horns of a male which we killed, measured three feet in length, and five inches diameter, at his head. This animal is taller than a deer, and has a larger body. It is covered with soft hair of a dun colour, gradually becoming of g lighter colour towards the belly, which is en- tirely white. Its horns are shaped, in every res- pect, like the horns of rams, of the common sheep, bending backwards, but have many rough knobs. Its tail resembles that of the red deer. The legs and feet resemble the sheep, but the hoofs some what longer. It is swift and climbs the clifts of 188 rocks with so much agility and ease, that no other animal can follow it ; and by this means it es- capes the wolves. Its flesh is esteemed equal to that of the deer. On the 3d of August, we moved up into the mountains and met with a camp of Gens-de-panse or the Paunched Indians. We encamped witli thtm for the night, and on the 4th, about noon, we had like to have been defeated, by a monstrous white bear. Four or five of the men were ahead, and turning the point of a steep hill, they met a White bear, and fired upon him, but only wounded him. He immediately turned upon them, and they retreated. At the point of the hill they met the rest of the party, the bear pursuing close to their heels, which threw the whole pal-ty into con- fusion. Not being room for us to escape, the bear was m a moment in the midst of us. As one man turned and attempted to run, the bear seized his buffaloe robe, and had not the fastening given way would have drawn him under his paws. While he was spending his rage on the robe, one of the men shot him dead on the spot. As soon as he fell, the whole party made the air ring with their shouts. This bear was much larger than the black bear. The meat only would have weighed more than four hundred pounds. The mountains here are steep, and some of their points and sides are covered with a small growth, mostly of the spruce kind. The stream we were ascend, ing IS wiDding, interrupted, and fuU of rapids, 189 but it IS about oric hundred yards 'wide. We en- camped in a large interval, at the mouth of a small stream, and continued here until the 12th. The fur animals had now just done shedding, so that we only hunted the buffaloe, cabree, and mountain sheep. A party was sent to gain the summit of a ridge, so as to pass over to the other side, while the rest of us crawled up, surrounding them on every side, excepting towards the river. As soon as the signal was given, by those who had ascended and gained the opposite side, we all raised a sudden yell, and sprang out of the grassy and the affrighted animals instantly fled from ua, pitched over the precipice, and were dashed against the stones, at the bottom, where we killed sixty-one. Some of them fell nearly two hundred feet ; but some of them, which were near the bot- tom, made their escape. It took us several days to dress and cure the meat. The method in which these people cure their meat is to cut it into thin slices, and dry it by the heat of the sun, or a slow fire. They use no salt to preserve it. Meat will continue in this state, if well dried, for a longtime. We killed a wildcat, which resembled the domestic cat, and was of about the same size. It was of a sallow colour, and had a tail nearly of the length of the body. This little animal is very fierce, ^d often kills cabree and sheep, by jumping on their necks, and eating away the sin- ews and arteries until they fall, and then sucks the blood. On the 25th, we proceeded up, 190 eighteen miles, to the mouth of a large fork cf the river, which comes from the north, and en- camped on a plain. At this encampment, the snow-topped mountains appeared to be at no great distance. Here we found beaver in plenty ; and as the fur had become good, we began to trap them. One of the Indians killed a beautiful wild cat, about one half larger than the house cat. Its fur was long and exceedingly fine, covered with black and white spots on a bright yellow ground. Its belly was pale yellow, and its tail uoout two inches long. It is the richest looking skin I ever saw. On the 28th, we killed two grizzly bears. In the evening we had a severe storm of hail, and the hail stones which fell were larger than musket balls. Here the mountain sheep are plenty, but they keep mostly on high ridges and the tops of the inaccessible mountains, On the 30th, moved further up the river, and caught a number of the lynx, marten and ermine. The ermine is a beautiful little animal, as white as milk, except the tip of the tail, which is of a jet black. On the 2d of September, had a heavy shower of snow, after which we returned to our encampment of the 28th of August. We contin- ued trapping here until the 12th, when we crossed the river, took a branch which comes from the southward, and followed it up about six miles, where we encamped in a small bottom. Here we found fur plenty, and caught a number of b'^aver, Otter, marten, ermine, and two spotted wild cats. 191 Buffaloe were plcntv, but as we hz6 secured as much meat as we could cavry, we seldom troubled them. On the i6th, we proceeded about ten milts lunhtr, and continued here until the 24th, when having loaded our horBcs, we crossed over a mountain, aud enciunped on a branch of Big- horn river. The weather was cold, and frequent showers of snow made the travelling diffirult. Here the str gm w as rapid, about thirty yards wide, and winding its way amongst the steep mountains. V^- were however obliged frequently to cross it ourselves, with our horses loaded with as much as they could carry. On the 28.1 ^ we came to a camp of the Crow Indians, where we rested until the 30th, when we continued our course down the river. The Crow Indians speak either the Mandan or Gross- Ventres tongue, or both of those languages. They left the camp and accompanied us. Here we found the travelling leso difficult than it had been. On the 3d of October, we passed two camps, and on the 5th, several more camps, on our way to Big-horn river, where we arrived at night. On the south side is a winter camp of the Crow Indians, consisting of forty-three huts. These huts were sunk three feet below the surface of the ground, but otherwise are built nearly sim- ilar to those of the Gross- Ventres. In the centre a post is erected, with notches cut in it for stepsj and a hole is left open at the top of it, sufficiently large for a man to crawl out, which is their 193 passage out and in, during the winter. At this encampment we prepared our buffaloe skin canoes, to descend the Big-horn river, which is large, being three hundred yards wide, with a strong current. On the 9th, we embarked, for the mouth of the river, having detached eight Indians to proceed with the horses by land. At night; we stopped at a camp of Crow Indians. Early in the morning of the 10th, we again proceeded, the current very rapid, and at night encamped. On the 11th, we proceeded early, and at night, ar- rived at the mouth of the river. Here is a village of Crow Indians, but of a different band from those we met with in the mountains. The Crow Indians are divided into four bands, which they distinguish by the following names, Ah-hah-hee- no'pah, Nootsa-pah-zascih^ Keet-keet-sah^ and Ehart'sah, This village belongs to the Nootsa- pah-zasah band. The band we had left was the Keet-keet-sah^2iw6. is the largest of them, consisting of two hundred warriors. The band here con- sists of one hundred and sixty warriors. This band had lately been on a war expedition against a nation of Indians, who reside on the west side of Rocky mountains, called Pal-lo-to-path^ or Flat-heads, and had returned with sixteen pris- oners, and a number of sccrlps. The Fiat-heads have a singular practice of flat- tening their heads, which is different from any other nation of Indianes in this countrv. It is effected in the following manner. Soon after an h ; ! I V ■^ ^'o k a Child n>kk Ushtad In die Frame, idj t infant is born, two boards are prepared, by draw- ing a dressed skin over them. One board is longer than the other, and the longest is placed on the back part of the head, extending from the neck about eight inches above the head ; the shortest board is placed against the. forehead, from the eyebrows, and meets the upper end of the other board. It is then laced together at the sides, and the head of the child is thus confined between these boards, until the child has grown to a considerable bigness. After the head is be- come sufficiently flattened, it is taken out of this compress. One of the prisoners had her infant child with its head in the frame. I also saw some of the prisoners which were two or three years old, who, I was informed, had the frame on when they were taken. This compression forms the head into the shape of a wedge, swelling it out over the ears, and gives the head a very singular shape. These people are of sSl middle stature, well formed, and of a pleasant countenance. Their skin of an olive colour, hair lank and coarse, and ther features regular and .handsome. The men had a bone passed through the gristle of the nose, which separates the nostril, that extended the width of the face. All the hair on their heads was pulled out, except a lock on the crown, which was left to grow its full length. This tuft of hair was divided into two parts, tied up in a short cue, and fell over each ear* Their dress consisted of nothing more than leggins and moccasons, ex- 17 194 cepting a young chief, who had a belt of white ermine skins round his middle, and a necklace of white bear's claws around his neck. All the men were tattooed on the breast, with two long, and one short line, drawn horizontally, but on no other part of the body. The women wear their hair tied up in two clubs, which hang over each ear, and a long braid down the back. They were not tattooed, nor do they wear any ornaments, except beads of their own make, formed out of sea shells, about the size of a barberry. Their dress con- sisted of a buffaloe robe, or a mountain sheep skin, thrown over their shoulders, ground hog skins sewed together, with the tails hanging out on the fur side, fastened round their middle with a belt of raw hide. On ihe 13th, a large party of Snake Indians arrived. This nation resides principally on the head waters of the Big-horn river, and in the most inaccessible parts of the rocky mountains, where they have frequendy to hide in caverns from their enemies. Owing to their defenceless situation, they become an easy conquest to any nation disposed to attack them ; and they are fre- quently attacked for no other reason, than the pleasure of killing them. Their appearance be- spoke their distressed situation to which they are reduced. The complexion of these Indians is dark, but their features are regular, although their visage is thin, and their eyes pretty much sunk into their heads. Their bodies are frequently i I 195 crooked, a thing very rarely to be seen among Indians ; of a small size, thin and slender. Both men and women have their hair hanging loose on their heads, and only cut short over their eyes. Their dress consists only of mountain sheep, ca- bree or deer skins, thrown over their shoulders. The women sometimes wore a girdle of loose bark, tied round their, middle, which was but an indifferent covering. Their ornaments consisted of white bear's claws, and a few beads. The men were armed with the Casoe-tite, or war club, a target or shield made of raw buffaloe hides, a dagger made of bone, ten inches long, and a small bow. We were the first white people wiiich either they, or the Flat-heads had ever seen. The Flat- heads, likewise, arm themselves with the war club, in which a bone is fastened that projects three inches, a bone dagger, and sometimes one made of iron, which they work out themselves, ten inches long, and three wide, at the handle ; a spear pointed with bone or iron, and when they cross the mountains to hunt the buffaloe, they carry a bow with them. The buffaloe is not found on the west side of the Rocky mountains, and there these people subsist on fish and roots. Our horses arrived on the 15th, and on the 16th, we embarked, to ascend the Jaun river. On the 1 rth, came to a camp of the Paunch In- dians, where we halted for the horses. These Indians reside mostly towards the head waters of the river Jaun, and the branches of the Big-horn. 1§6 , They are a large, well looking people, somewhat irtclined to corpulency. From this circumstance they have acquired the name of Gens-de-Panse, but they call themselves All-ah-kaa-wiah. They speak a different language from the Gross- Ven- tres. Their arms consist of bows and spears, with buffaloeskin targets, much larger than those made use of by the Snake Indians, and so thick and firm that an arrow will not pierce them. They use a short bone dagger, and the war club. A few of them had guns, but no ammunition. Many of the Crow Indians and Gross- Ventres, are armed in the same manner. On the 18th, our horses arrived, and we pro- ceeded, passing many camps of Indians, and halted at night on an island, where we killed a large white bear. The river is rapid but has no obstruc- tion. The ice now began to float, which ren- dered our navigation dangerous in such slight vessels. Here the Rocky mountains may be seen at a distance to the westward ; but the land near the river is mostly level, and though destitute of timber, is apparently of a good soil. The general course of the river is to the north, and sometimes west of north. On the 22d, we arrived at the mouth of a large branch which comes from the southeast, and encamped to wait for the horses. About six miles up this branch, a party of Crow Indians were encamped, and intended to spend the winter. On the 25t.h,the horses arrived, and as the ice ran thick, took out our bouts, and ei^ i9r camped for the winter. Our encampment was in a grove of cotton wood, and willows, and we formed as comfortable huts as possible. Mr. Pardo and myself built one for our own accom- modation, with one adjoining for our horses. On the 3d of November, the buffaloes descended from the mountains in vast droves. The plains were covered with them and with elk. The In- dians hunt the buffaloe on horse back, with a bow and a short spear. They ride as near as possi- ble to the gang, and discharge their arrows, while the animals are fighting their dogs. A wounded buffaloe, if he does not fall, frequently turns upon the hunter, who depends upon the dexterity of his horse, which has been trained up to the business, for his escape. He then discharges more arrows, and dispatches the animal with his spear. These hunts are attended with considerable danger, and sometimes with the loss of both horse and rider. The country in which we were encamped is level to the south, but to the north and west the moun- tains are in sight, with steep ridges^ approaching the river ; and to the east is a large mountain^ entirely insulated from the Rocky mountains, called the Turtle, This mountain, with the country round it, is covered with timber. Large bands of Indians encamp near it, during the win- ter for the conveniency of wood. In some places, wood is so scarce that they perish with cold ,^ for want of it. 17* 198 The extensive country on the Jaun, or Yellow river, is exceedinp^ly fertile. Towards its head waters the land is covered with large timber. Grapes grow in great abundance wherever any trees or brush are to be found. There are vast thickets of plumbs, cherries, and crab apples. The country is mostly level to the foot of the Black mountains, which the Indians say, are completely separated from Rocky mountains. A large river passes between them, which runs to the southward. The range of the Black mountains is from east to west, but the Rocky mountains extend from north to south. The former are about four hun- dred miles south of our winter encampment, as the Indians compute the distance. They repre- sent the country as fertile beyond description, and as inhabited by numerous bands of Indians. The buffaloe, elk, cabree, deer, black and white bears, are found there, in vast multitudes. The Manclarie Indians are often at war with a nation, v.'hich resides in the Black mountains, called, J-a-kar-tha^ who speak the same tongue with the Snake Indians or the Aliatans of the Rocky mountains. This nation has also obtained the nick name of Snake Indians, from the same cir- cumstance ; that is, because they hi(le themselves in caverns and among the rocks, to conceal them- selves from their enemies, from whence they are dragged out and killed like snakes. They are also held in great contempt by other nations, who consider them .o be too mean to have existence. I 199 The Indians say, that vast numbers of horses and mules abound in, and about the Black mountains. Towards the mouth of the River Jaun, the country is open, level, with extensive prairies, or natural meadows, covered with high grass, but no wood, excepting cotton wood, willows, and a few cedars. On the north side of the Missouri, near the Rocky mountains, resides a nation of Indians, who are numerous, and who are the in- veterate enemies of the Grosr- Ventres and Cro\f Indians, and frequently fall on their hunting par- ties. Tneir are called Black-foot Indians. I saw one of this nation, who was a prisoner taken by the Crow Indians. He was a large, well made, and his complexion as light as the Gross- Ventres. They are a roving nation, have no villages, nor do they raise any kind of produce. The weather becoming mild, on the 12th of March, 1803, we moved up the river on which we had encamped, called by the Indians Nan-tU' se-car, or Stillwater river, which is about sixty yards wide. On the 15th, came to salt springs, and boiled some of the water. On the 18th, procured a small quantity of salt, which, to me, was a great relief, as I had lost my appetite for want of it j not having tasted any for mor;. J.an three months. On the 19thi moved our encamp- ment on to high land, the Salt springs being in a low interval, to avoid the water produced by the melting of the snow. Here the Turtle mountain appeared at a great distance, in a southeast dit^c- I40G tion. On the 24th, the snow fell about a foot deep. We proceeded in a northerly direction, and encan.ped, at night, on a small stream, and continued io the 30th, owing to the fleet and rain. On the 30th, we continued our course, in the same direction, through a plain country, in a well beaten path, and on the 4th of April, came to a branch of tho Still-water river, where we en- camped to hnnt. On the 8th, caught several beaver, otter, and white rabits, which were very numerous. On the 12th, we arrived at the river, we had ascended in July, called Road river, and on the 13th, came to the Salt springs, where we procured a small quantity more of salt. On ♦he 18th, proceeded to the mouth of Catteau, or Knife river, where we arrived on the 24th of April. On the 25th, a great feast was made with the usual ceremonies. We left the upper Gross- Ventres village, on the 4th of May, in company with a large number of Indians for the trading post on the Assinniboin river, distant about one hundred miles, and on the 11th, arrived at the station. I had formed a de- termination to leave the Indians at this place, but V :v, prevent 1 by the Sioux Indians, who were with us. The Sioux Indian, who was a relation to the chief, was offered a musket, knife, and hatchet, if he would let me go, but he refused, declaring that I must go with him to his uncle. The traders not being willing to offend the In- dians, I was oblicred to remain wWli tht^rv^ n« 201 the 5th of Jane, I parted with Mr.ParJo and my former companions, and went with a party of Sioux, of the Tilon Okandanas band, for the heads of Saint Peter's river. The chie'' Man-da-ton- que-quoy was gone with part ot uie Bois-bvuil band. On the 15th, we came to a band of the Bois-bruil, on Saint Peter's river, but the chief was not with them. He had gone with a small party to meet a band of Tanton-ansah Sioux, who were proceeding from the falls of Saint Avithony, on the Mississippi, where they had been to pro- cure merchandize, to trade with the other bands. The country we had lately passed through, was mostly level, swampy, and full of small lakes, covered very thick with timber, chiefly pine and spruce. On the inh, we proceeded down the Saint Peter's, and on the 20th, came to the en- campment. This body of Indians consisted of five bands; the Tanton-ansah, Wah-pa-coo-tOy Titon-lois-bruil, Titon-okan-danas, and Titon- sa-oo-nu, about four hundred warriors, and about one thousand four hundred people. On the 27th, the bands mostly separated, and the greater part returned to the Missouri^ among whom was the Bois-bruil band, who took the war path. The greatest part of these Indians were well armed, and mounted on good horses, On the 12th of July, encamped at the forks of the River Sasqui, a branch of the Missouri, On the 18th, these bands separated, and we proceeded tp the crossing of the three rivers, on the Missouri, above the 202 mouta of White river. On * ic 8th of August, we arrived at the Missouri, and a party of us went down to the Salt springs, and made a quan- tity of salt. The water in the River Sasqui and in the Three rivers is so brackish, as to be very disagreeable to drink ; and many other streams on the Missouri have a similar taste. On the 20th, we returned to the encampment, and on the 28th, I went with a party up the Middle fork of the Three rivers, to hunt. The country is consider- ably broken, and destitute of timber j but numer- ous salt licks and a plenty of game. On the 16th of September, we returned, having loaded our horses. We remained at this encampment until the 27th, when we moved up to Teton river. I ob- tained liberty, on the 3d of October, to go to the Rus village. Here I spent the winter with a number of trade-s belonging to Saint Louis. The Sioux are enemies to the traders, who follow this employment on *the Missouri. They hold them in the greatest contempt, and always rob them whenever they can gtt a good opportunity. On the 12th of April, 1804, the traders left the village, and wtnt up the River Chcin, or Dog river, to trade. The chief Mitn-da-tonque-qua came to the village, on the 18th, and took me with him on to the Sioux river, where we arrived on the 6th of May, and continued until the 12th «r T 1 . ] *.-« 4.u~ r>:..„.. c..«».,: Ul J UUC, WIICII VVC ICIIiUVCU lU llIC ^ItVCi i^aSLj^UI. On the 26th of August, a report was spread 203 among the Indians, that a party, an army, ds they called it, of soldiers were coming up the Mis- souri.'* After dispatching messengers to all the Indians near, they hastened to the river, leaving all their women and children with a few men in the encampment. They did not permit me to go with them. On the 25th of September, a council was held on the River Sasqui, to deliberate on the object this army should have in view, and to determine what should be done. Lengthy debates took place, and being much divided in sentiment whether they should attack them, or not, they disolved the council on the 29th, without de- ciding what should be done. Another council was held on the 5th of November, consisting of a much larger number, when they came to a de- termination to .invite the Rus to join them, and to attack the soldiers early in the spring. They also agreed to declare war against the Mandans and the Gross- Ventres. During the winter, large bodies of Indians assembled on the Sioux river and the River Sasqui, near to the Missouri. In the mean time, war w?s declared against the soldiers and agninst the Mandans and Gross- Ventres. Early in the spring the spies they had •The army reported to be coming- up the Missouri, was doubtless, the piipty under the command of Captain Lewis and Captain Claike, consisting- of forty -five mc bound on a voyage of discovery to the Pacific Ocean. This . rps entered the Missouri on ihe i4ih of Moy, 1804, and passed the mouth of the River Sasqui, about the 28th of August. 204 sent out, reported that the soldiers had gone fur- ther up the river, so that on the 4th of April, 1805, our camp, with the women and children, moved on . the Missouri. Immediately after I arrived here, I was so fortunate as to become acquainted with Mr. Paintille, a Frenchman, who had long resided in the country, principally with the Titon-anah band of Sioux. We concerted a plan for making an escape down the Missouri. As he had a light canoe, we prepared ourselves to leave the Indians, and accordingly, on the night of the 26th of April, we were so happy as to make our escape from these miserable beings. In ten days we arrived at the town of Saint John's, which is the upper settlement on the Mis- souri river, and from thence we proceeded to the lower settlements. Here I found myself in the full enjoyment of a freedom, of which I had long been deprived ; having been a prisoner more than three years and six months. During this period I had been subjected to many severe suiFerings. Although I had always been well treated by the Indians, I had undergone great fatigues, and was often much distressed for provisions. Frequent exposure to wet and cold, and the inclemency of weather, brought on a rheumatism, whicu became so severe, as to confin e me eighteen months after I had obtained my liberty. APPENDIX. As an historical sketch has been g-iven of the Indian na- tions, within what is considered the limits of Louisiana, on the western side of the river Mississippi, it is presumed that some account of the natives residing- west of the Alle- ghany mountains, and in the vicinity of the lakes, would be acceptable. The following is given from the best materials the writer was able to procure. To ascertain the numbers of each nation, with any great degree of precision, is im- practicable. They are taken principally from former esti- mates, since which individual natiofis have doubtless consid- erably varied in number Since the close of the American revolutionary war, some of the nations have increased in population, while others have diminished. Mr. Imlay, in his history of Kentucky, estiuiates the whole number of In- dians, from the gulph of Mexico, on both sides the Missis- sippi, to its head waters, to the gulph of Saint Lawrence ; and as far v/est as the country has been explored, between the Missouri and Saint aid to be only 60,000 souls. This estimation must be much less than their real number. Mr. Purcell, who resided among ihe Indians, computes only the Creeks, Chacktaws, Chickasaws, Cherokees, and Catabaws, in the year 17S0, to consist of 13,516 warriors, and 42,033 souls. The roving life and frequent migrations of the na- tives, increase the difficulty of asceMaining the number of particular nations. Tribes and small bands often separate from their nation, and form confederacies with otlvers, or find some new place of residence. After the establishment of peace by General Wayne, at Greenville, in 1795. at which time large tracts of land were ceded to the United States, nearly all the Indians who resided on the lands, to which IB 206 their claims were extinguished, retread back, and found new places of residence. The most northern and eastern nations, near the lakes, are the Six Nations. Tlicy have been bo called by the En- glish and Americans, but the French styled them Irquais. They call themselves Jlganuschioni, which in their language, signifies the United People. This confederacy, which con- sisted at first cf only five nations, is of ancient date. The nations who first united were the Mohawks, Oneidas, Onon- dagas, Senecas, and Cayugas. About eighty years ago they were joined by the Tuscaroras. The Mohawks were formerly at the head of the confederacy, and were a very powerful nation. They inhabited on Mohawk river. The old Mohawk town was at the mouth of Scliohavy creek, twelve miles west of Schenectady, which was not entirely abandoned until 1780. Here is still the remains of an old church, built in the reign of Queen Ann, They were strongly attached to Sir William Johnson, and the Johnson family. About 300 went with Sir John Johnson, to Canada in 1776, and reside in Upper Canada, on the northern waters of Lake Erie. At the time of the American revolution, the Six Nations were in alliance with the English, engaged on their side, and made great depredations on the ffontlers. In the year 1779, the American troops gained a complete victory over them, and destroyed all their towns. By a treaty at Fort Stanwix, in 1784, a tract of land was assigned them, bordering on Lake Erie and Ontario, and a quantity of goods given them for their use and comfort. And by a subsequent treaty, at Konon-daigua, in 1794, their boundary lines were varied, in conformity to treaties they had made with the State of New York, and the tract confirmed to them by the United States. This tract is called the State Reservation^ on which they now reside. In consideration ofthe extinguishment of their claims to other lands, and to secure perpetuate peace and friendship, the United States delivered to tlie Six Nations, and to the Indians of other nations, residing among them, and united with them, a quaniiiy of goods to the \alue oi" lOjOOO dollarsj'and stipulated an annuity of 4,500 dollars, t« 2or be expended yearly, forever, in purchasing clothing, do- mestic animals, implements of husbandj'y, and in compensa- ting- useful artificers, who shall reside with, or near them, and be employed for their benefit. All the Mohawks and a considerable part of the Cayugas have migrated to Canada. It is thought probable they will all quit the United States, and retire over the Lakes Ontario and Erie, and settle with their former associates. There is an exact census of all these Indians taken annually. The number of souls, in 1796, ex- clusive of the Mohawks and Ciyugas moved into Canada, was 3,298. The Stockbridge and Brotherton Indians, who are united with them and reside among them, are 1,210, making the whole number of the Six Nations 4,508 souls. They can probably furnish about 1,406 warriors. The Sachems, chiefs and warriors of the following na- tions and tribes, having met together at Greenville, on a branch of the Great Miami, General Wayne concluded a treaty of peace, harmony, and friendly intcicourse between the United States, and these Indians, on the 3d day of Au- gust 1795. The nations and. tribes were the Wyandots, Del- awares, Shavvanoes, Ottawas, Chippewas, Ottawa from Sai^- dusky lake, Putawatames of the River Saint Joseph, Puta- watames of Huron, Miamles, and Eel-river, Eel-river tribe, Miarais, Weeas for themselves and the Piankashow, Kika- poos, Kaskaskias, and Delawares of Sandusky. By the third article of the treaty, a general boundary line between the lands of the United States, and the lands of the said Indian tribes, was established. All the land lying eastvvardly and southwardly of the general boundary line. These tribes ceded to the United States, and relinquished all their claims forever. They also made a cession of sixteen pieces of land, of diflerent dimensions, and at diflercnt places, within their own line, as an evidence of returning friendship, and to pro- vide for the accommodation, convenient intercourse, and mutual benefit of both parties. In addition to these cessions, the said tribes relinquished all title and claim which they, or uny of them, may iiave to the tract of 150,000 acres, near the rapids of the Ohio river, which has been assigned to J208 General Clark and his warriors ; a tract of land adjacent tJ post Saint Vicennei, on the Wabash, to which the Indian title had been extinguished ; the land at all other places in possession of the French people and other white settlers among them, of which the Indian title had been extin- guished ; and a tract at Fort Massac, towards the mouth of the Ohio. In consideration of these cessions, and with a view to pre- serve peace and a friendly intercourse, the United States de- livered to these tribes a qu.tntity of goods, of the value of 20,000 dollars, and are hence forwarded every year forever, to deliver them like useful goods, suited to the circun:- stances of the Indians,to the amount of 9,500 dollars,vaUied at the place where they are procured. These goods are to be delivered in the following proportions ; to the W} andots, the value of 1,000 dollars ; to the Delawares, 1,000 dollars ; to the Shawanese, 1,000 dollars ; to the Miamis, 1,000 dollars ; to the Attawas, 1,000 dollars ; to the Chippewas 1,000 dol- lars ; to the Putawatimes, 1,000 dollars ; and to the Kicka- poos, Weeas, Eel-river, Piankashaws, and Kaskaskias tribes, 500 dollars each. The Wyandots inhabit the country near the river Saint Joseph and Fort Detroit, and have their hunting ground about the western end of Lake Erie. Their warriors, some years ago were two hundred and fifty, and the number of souls estimated at about 800. A tribe of the Wyandots, re- side near Sandusky, in the neighbourhood of a tribe of the Mohickons and Coghnawagas. The warriors of these three tribes were, a number of years ago, three hundred, and the inhabitants about 1,00^ The Delaware nation emigrated from the northern parts of Pennsylvania and New-Jersey, and probably received their name from their residence on the Delaware river. The name by which they called themselves was Liiinilenape, which, in their language, signifies Indian Men. They were formerly a very numerous and powerful nation, but are much reduced. Before the scttlemenis comnieneed in the Stale of Ohio, their villages were about midway between the 209 Ohio rivev and Lake Erie, on the Muskingum, and on the ^ branches of Beaver Creek and Guychago, but they have since retired to the country about Lake Erie. They are naturally ingenious, intelligent and of a peacable disposition, rarely contending with any of the neighbouring Indian tribes. Lately they were hostile to the Americans, and committed depredations. The number of their warriors has been computed to be six hundred, and their number of souls about 8,000. The Shawanoes resided on the head waters of the Scidto and the northern branches of the Muskingum, but they are now on Stone creek, which empties into the Great Miami, and at the Miami villages. They have been able to raise three hundred warriors. Parts of this nation hav« emigrated to the southward of the Ohio river, and joined the Creek con- federacy. It has been said of the Shawanoes that they are generally handsome featured, of a rather small size, and a very chearful, crafty people : that counselling among the old people, and dancing among their young men and women, occupies a great portion of their lime. The Ottawa nation is divided into several tribes or bands* The largest part of the nation live not far distant from De- troit, and hunt about Lake Erie, and some time past, could raise four hundred warriors. Another part resides on the eastern side of Lake Michigan, about twenty miles south- ward of Michilimackinack. Their hunting ground is between this lake and Lake Huron. They have been able to furnish about two hundred warriors. One of the tribes live near the Chippewas, on Saguinam bay, who, together had two hun- dred warriors. Another tribe resides near Fort Saint Jo- seph, and have about one hundred and fifty warriors. And one other small band live near Sandusky, who are supposed to have not more than about fifty warriors. The Chippewas are a very numerous nation, divided into a vast number of tribes and bands, which are scattered over a tract country represented by M'Kenzie, to extend two ers on the borders of Lake Superior, on the Chippewjty riv- 18* 210 er, on both sides of Mississippi ; and as far to the westward as the Assinniboin river. Very little appears to be known of the numbers which compose this nation. The tribes iii- liabiting the coasts and islands of Lake Superior, according to Hutchins, can furnish one thousand warriors. Those re- siding in the country about Saguinam and Puan bays, and on the borders of Huron and Machigan, together with the tribes of Saukees and Mynomanies, who live near them, are esti- mated at five hundred and fifty warriors. These last men- tioned tribes were hostile to the United States, and signed the treaty at Greenville. The Putanotimes consist of two tribes, one of which re- sides on the River Saint Joseph, and the other near Detroit. Their warriors are estimated at about five hundred. These tribes were both hostile to the United States, and were par- ties in the treaty at Greenville. The Miamies who signed the Greenville treaty, (it is pre- sumed) include those only who inhabit the village of that name near the Miami Fort. Their number of warriors ia unknown. The Miamis nation live on the Miami of the lakes, and on lands soutliward of Lake Michigan. They can furnish about three hundred warriors. The Eel-river Indians reside on a river of that name, which is a head branch of the Wabash. Their number of warriors cannot be ascertained. Kathtippacamunch was an Indian village, situated on the north side of the Wabash river, at the mouth of Tippacanoe creek, about twenty miles above the lower Weeatovvns. In 1791, before it was destroyed by Generals Scott and Wilkin- son, it is said to have " contained one hundred and twenty houses, eighty of which were shingle roofed. The best houses belonged to the French traders. The gardens and improvements round were delightful. There was a tavern with cellars, bar, public and private rooms ; and the whole marked no small degree of order and civilization." Not far distant from the mouth of Tippacanoe creekj is the town of the mucli fanQedlndian Prophet, who is said to be % Shawajioes. 211 The piankashaws, Kickapoos, Musquitons, and Ouiatanos, are tribes on the branches of the Wabash and Illinois rivers. They could raise, according to Hutchins, one thou- sand warriors. Other tribes of the Kickapoos reside at the entrance of Lake Superior, and could raise four hundred warriors. Another tribe inhabits with the Otutagamies and Musquateys, between Michigan and the Mississippi, who together had one thousand warriors. The Naudowesies live between Michigan and Lake Su- perior, and have five hundred warriors. The Killistinoes on Lake Superior, and have two hundred and fifty warriors. Mingoes on the Scioto, and have fifty warriors Lezars between the Wabash and the mouth of the Ohio. The greater part of these Indians have taken up new places of residence. They had three hundred warriors. Outimaes, between Michigan and Lake Saint Clair. Warriors two hundred. Winnebagoes inhabit about the Lake of the same name, south of Green bay. Their village is situated on an island near the end of the lake, and can raise about three hundred warriors. Illinois tribe inhabit a village near Ca- hokia river on the Mississippi, and can furnish two hundred and sixty warriors. There are a number of other tribes, towns and villages, north of the River Ohio, within the boimdaries of the United States ; especially in the extensive country between the Illinois river and the Upper lakes. But the deficiency of information is too great to attempt any description of them. South of the Ohio, the Cherokee nation inhabit a tract o't country lying in the southern parts of Tennessee, and north- ern parts of Georgia, being separated on the east from North and South Carolina, by the Apalachian or Cherokee moun- tains, and extending on the west, to Duck river, running 'nto the Tennessee. By a tract concluded between the United States and the Cherokee nation, at Hopewell, in November, 1785, the boundary between the citizens of the United Sta i, and the country allotted to this nation for hunting groL . Is particularly designated. The Cherokees have been a famous Indian nation, but is now on the decline. Frequent 212 wars with the northern tribes, and witU while people, have greatly reduced their numbers. They are said to have had two thousand five hundred warriors, but they are now esti- mated at one thousand five hundred. They have about forty- five towns in which they reside when they are not engaged inliunting or war excursions. They are a tall, robust, and well formed people, of a lighter complexion than the neigh- bouring Indian nations. The men are very generally six feet in height. The women are also tall and of an handsome figure, rather slender and delicate. This nation has been much celebratr'd for their talents and correct morals. , The Chickasaws reside in the Mississippi Territory, on the Yazoo river, and westward of the Tennessee riv "; a" far north as the Ohio, of and down the Ohio and Mississipp., to theChactaw line of Natchez district. The boundary of the lands allotted to this nation is particularly described in the treaty of Hopewell on the 10th of January, 1786. Their country lies north of the Chactaw nation, and is very much an extended plain with little rising land. It is well watered _and the soil generally good. They reside in about seven or eight towns and had formerly five hundred and seventy- five M'ari'iors, and seventeen hundred and twenty-five souls* The Chactaws, a powerful, subtle, hardy, Indian nation, reside between the Tombigby and Mississippi rivers. The limits of the country, within the United States on which this nation is to live and hunt, was particularly stipulated at the treaty of Hopewell, on the 3d of January, 1786. Their country is hilly, with extensive, fertile plains intervening between the high lands. Unlike most of the Indian nations they have paid considerable attention to husbandry. Some of them have large farms, in a good state of culture, and many c." them spend much of their time in agricultural im- provements. Although they do not possess one quarter part of the qnarttity of land which the Creek nation occupies, their number of people is more than two thirds as large as the Creek confederacy. Many years ago they had forty-three towns and villairefi. containing' 4^041 warriors^ and 12.12.'? iouls. Since that time they are supposed to have consider- 213 al)ly increased in population. These people are said to be slovenly and dirty in their dress, but ingenious, sensible and virtuous. Late travellers, however, have represented them as paying little regard to their moral conduct, and that un- natural crimes were too frequently practiced among them. There is an inveterate enmity between the Choctaws and Creek Indians. The Creek confederacy forms the largest and most pow- erful nation of Indians south of the Ohio. The nation with whom the confederacy originated, was called Muskogul^e. who emigrated from the west, beyond the Mississippi, and established themselves on the ruins of the Natchez These people made their first ieitlement on the Oukmulge Fields, in the State of Georgia. They gradually subdued their sur- rounding enemies, and then strengthened themselves by taking into confederacy the vanquished tribes. The princi- pal nations and tribes composing this union, are the Appa- lachies, Alabamas, Abecas, Cawillaws, Coosas> Conshacks, Coosactee«, Chacsihoomas, Natchez, Oconies, Oakmulgies, Okohoys, Pakanas, Taensas, Talepoosas, Wectunkas, and others who have since been united with them This con- federation has rendered them formidaLlo to all the -ations around them, as well as to the wkite people, and has ren- dered them victorious over the Chickasaws. They are divided into Upper Creeks, and Middle and Lower Creeks. The Upper Creeks include all the waters of the Koose, Tale- poose and Alabama rivers, and are called Abbaco. Their hunting ground extends to the Tombigby river, which is the dividing Tuie between the Creeks and Chocktaws. The Middle Creeks include all the waters of the Chattahoose and Flint rivers, down to their junction, and although occu- pied by a great number of different tribes, the whole are calkd Coweta people, from the Cowetan town and tribe, the most warlike, and one of the most ancient of the Creek na- tion. The Lower Creeks take in the Appalachicola river, and extend to the point of East Florida. This division is Ca"'*'' tlie !§''"»« ' ""/''» Tlipv liavA fiftv.fi\'#» niMnrinal tnvvns. besides many villages. The smallest towns have from twenty 214 to thirty, and some of the hirgcst from one hundred and fifty to two hundred houses. The towns are all built com- pact. The houses stand in clusters of 4, 5, 6, 7 and 8 to- gether, irregularly arranged up and down the banks of the rivers and small streams. Each cluster contains a clan, or family of relations, who eat and live in common. Each town has a public square, hot-house and yard near the centre, appropriated to various public uses. General M'Gillivra, estimated tlie number of warriors to be about six thousand exclusive of the Seminoles, who arc considered of little ac- count in war. From their roving manner of living it is im- possible to ascertain the number of Creek Indians with much precision. They probably may have about 26,000 souls. The land which thay cla'.m as their country is a common ■lock ; and any individual may remove from one part of it to another, and occupy vacant ground where he can find it. They have considered their boundary northward, to be some where about the forty -second degree of north latitude (as it has been found by surveyers), extending westward to the Tombigby river, and eastward to the atlantic ocean ; but they have ceded parts of this tract on the sea coast, long ago, by different treaties to the State of Georgia. Their country is hilly, but not mountainous ; tlie soil fertile ; abounding with creeks, from whence they are probably called the Creek Indians. They have been very desLi-ous to agree with the United States on a permanent boundary line, over which the southern States should not trespass. In August 1790, the United States concluded a treaty with the Kings, chiefs and warriors, of the Creek nation, at New-York. Uy this treaty the boundary line was to begin where the old line strikes the River Savannah ; thence up the river t6 a place called Keowce, where a northeast line to be drawn from the top of the Occunna mountain shall intersect ; thence along the said line in a southwest direction, to Tugelo river ;, thence to the ton of the Currahee mountain ; thence to the head or source of the m.ain south branch of th.e Qr.nnpe river, called the Appalachee ; tlience down the said branch 215 •nd River Oconee to its confluence with tl»e Oakmulg, e which form the River Altamaha to the old line, and thence along the old line to the River Saint Mary. The United Statea were, fram time to time, to furnish the Creek nation gratuitously with useful domestic animals and impiement. of husbandry. A subsequent treaty was concluded, at Cole- ra,n, in June 1796. confirming the former treaty, providing that the boundary line from the Currahee mount-^in. should be clearly ascertained and marked, and stipulating to give to the said nation, goods to the value of 6,000 dollars, and to send two black smiths, with strikers and necessary tools, to be employed for the Upper and Lower Creeks. Considerable improvements have been made by these people in agriculture, but they have been extremely deficient in their implements of husbandry. A very large part of the nation being devoted to hunting in the winter, and to war or idleness in the summer, they cultivate only small tract* of land which are barely sufficient to afford them sustenance. Some, who possess numbers of negroes, have fenced fields ? but having no ploughs, they are obliged to break up, and cultivate the ground with hoes. The seta is scattered over the ground promiscuously, and not plantr-J in rows. The articles they cultivate, are tobacco, rice, Indian corn, pota- toes, beans, peas, cabbage and melons. Such fruits as peaches, plumbs, grapes, and strawberries, they have in great plenty. They raise great numbers of horses, cattle and hogs, and abound in turkics, ducks and other poultry. Thty manufacture earthern pots and pans, baskets, horse ropes or halters, smoaked leather, black marble pipes woocUMi spoons, and oil from acorns, hickory nuts and chesnuts. The Creoks are not disposed to have much intercourse wilh white people, especially foreigners, except with the English. Their prejudice is strong in favour of that nation, and they still believe " the Great King over the water" is able to koep the whole world in subjection. Thsy have a particular fondness for liritish guns, drums, and other arti- cles manufactured by the English people. ai6 It is said the Muakogiilge language, which is soft and musical, is spoken throughout the confederacy, although different tribes retain their native tongues. These people are generally well formed, expert, hardy, sagacious and politic. TJiey are extremely jealous of their rights, and averse to parting with their lands. They are faithful friends, but inveterate enemies ; hospitable to strangers ; and hon- est and fair in their dealings. They have a most contempt- able opinion of the white man's faith, and yet place great confidence in the justice and integrity of the government of the United States. Thuv have no coercive laws, but sup- port an excellent policy in their civil government. It is said some of their rr.ost favourite songs and dances, they have received from their enemies, the Choctaws, who are distin- guished for poetry and music. They allow polygamy in the greatest latitude. Any man may take as many wives as he pleases, but the first wife is to be treated as queen, and the re»t as only hand-maids and associates. One of the regula- tions said to have been adopted by the Creek nation, merits the highe-", commendation. ^ is the prohibition of the use of spirituous liquors. In their treaties with the white peo- pie, it has been said, they ha^e insisted that no kind of spir- its should be sold to their people ; and when attempts have been made to run kegs of spirits, the Indians, on a discov- ery, have destroyed them with their tomahawks. The Catalaw nation is only the remnant of a formidable, brave, generous people, now reduced to a small tribe. They reside on a rivtr of the same name, which forms a boundary line between North and South Carolina. In their present situation, they are entirely surrounded by white in- habitants. A tract of land of 444,000 acres, has been assigned them, on which they huve agricultural improve- ments. They are said to consist of about four hundred and fifty souls, and have abo';t one hundred and fifty warriors. An account has been given of a particular tribe of Indians residing, on elevated land, in a part of the Eokeefanoke, or Ekanfanoga swamp, between Tlint and Oakmulgee rivers^ ai7 from which the River Saint Mary takes its rise. It is called a lake, or rather a marsh, three hundred miles in circumfer* ence. The account given of these Indians, borders too anuch on romance to deserve much credit. The lake or marsh is called Ouaquaphetioga. " In wet seasons it appears like an inland sea, and has several largcislands of rich land; one of which the present generation of Creek Indians repre- sent as the most blissful spot on earth. They say it is inhabited by a peculiar race of Indians, whose women are incomparably beautiful. They tell that this terrestrial par> adise has been seen by some enterprising hunters, when in pursuit of their game, who being lost in inextricable swamps and bogs, and on the point of perishing, were unexpectedly relieved by a company of beautiful women, whom they call daughters of the sun, who kindly gave them such provisions as they had with them ; consisting of fruit and corn cakes, and then enjoined them to fly for safety to their own coun- try, because their husbands were fierce men, and cruel to strangers. They further say, that these hunters had a view" of their settlements, situated on the elevated banks of an island, in a beautiful lake ; but in all their endeavours to approach it, they were involved in perpetual labyrinths, and, like enchanted land, still as they imagined they had just gained it, it seemed to fly before them ; and having quitted the delusive pursuit, they with much difiiculty eifected their retreat. "They tell another story concerning this sequestered country, which seems not improbable, which is, that the inhabitants are the posterity of a fugitive remnant of the an- cient Yamases, who escaped massacre, after a bloody and decisive battle between them and the Creeks, (who, it is certain, conquered and ;iearly exterminated that once pow- erful people), and here formed an asylum, remote and secure from the fury of their proud conquerors. The River Saint Mary and Sitilla, which fall into the Atlantic, and the beauti- ful Little Juan, which empties into the bay of Appalachi, at Saint Mark's, are said by Bartrsm, to flow from this lake."* * Ste Ouaquaphen9ga-Wt Amerioan GaxettecK 19 219 Mr. Purcell, in his account of the population of the Indian nations south of the Ohio, has stated the number of war- riors to be 13,516, which is 1,260 more, than is here given. The number of souls are considerable less, being 42,033, and 2,260 less than the preceding estimation. Although he appears to have taken his numbers from actual enumera- tion, he makes the proportion of warriors, to the number of souls, only a small fraction more than three souls to one warrior, which is considerably less than the common rule of calculation. It is not improbable, however, that his account is correct. It has been a general opinion that these nations have been increasing in number, for a considerable time past. The greatest enemy to their population has doubtlesi been the intemperate use of spirituous liquors. % 219 Table of the probable number of warriors and souls of the Indians, residing west of Uie Allegany mountains and vicin- ity of the lakes, within the limits of the United States. JVatnea. JVo. JVarnors. Estimated JSTo. North of the Ohio. of Souls, Six Nations, 1400 4508 Wy an dots, 250 800 Wyandot tribes. 300 1000 Delawares, 600 2000 Shawanoes, 300 900 Ottawas, 900 3000 Cliippewas, 1550 4000 Futawatimes, 500 2000 Miamis, 300 1000 Piankoshaws, i Kickapoos, f Musquitons, C 1000 3500 Ouiatanos, J Kickapoos, "^ Outtagamies, C 1000 3500 MusquakeySjj Naudowesies, 500 2000 Killistinoes, 250 800 Mingoes, 50 200 Lezars, 300 1000 Outimaes. 200 roo Winnebagoes, 300 1000 Illinois, 260 1000 South of the Ohio. Cherokees, 1500 4000 Chicksaws, 575 1725 Chocktaws. 4041 12128 Creeks, 6000 26000 Catabaws, 150 450 • 22,226 77,101 THE END.