^ ^ o '^*^, IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) // {/ ^CT >>-^ :/_ 4^ 4^ 4^ 1.0 1.1 11.25 ■ttlZl lU m ^^ ■■■ ■it I3ii 12.2 1^ 12.0 IIS ■tMU '/i FliDtDgra{diic Sciences Corporation '^S ■O^ iV <> N 33 WtST MAM STHIT wnsnR,N.Y. l4StO (716) in.4S03 6^ 4^:^ ^ CIHM/ICMH Microfiche Series. CIHM/ICMH Collection de microfiches. Canadian Instituta for Historical Microraproductiona / institut Canadian da microraproductions hiatoriquaa Tachnical and Bibliographic Notas/Notoa tachniquas at bibliographiquaa Tha Instituta has attamptad to obtain tha baat original copy availabia for filming. Faaturas of this copy which may ba bibliographicaliy uniqua, which may altar any of tha imagaa in tha raproduction, or which may significantly changa tha usual mathod of filming, ara chackad baiow. L'Institut a microfilm* la maillaur axamplaira qu'il lui a iti possibia da sa procurar. 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D Additional comments:/ Commentaires supplimantaires: This item is filmed at the reduction ratio checked below/ Ce document est film* au taux de reduction indiqui ci-dessous. 10X 14X 18X 22X 26X 30X J 12X 16X ^Blfiw*' 24X 28X 32X Th« copy film«ci h«r« Hm b««n raproducad thanks to tha ganarosity of: D.B. WeMon Library University of Wattem Ontario L'axamplaira filmA fut raproduit grica i la g^nirositA da: D.B. WaMon Library University of Western Ontario Tha Imagas appaaring hara ara tiM baat quality possibia coisidaring tha condition and lagibility of tha original copy and in icaaping with tha filming contract spacificationa. Original copiaa in printad papar covars ara fllmad baginning with tha front covar and anding on tha laat paga with a printad or illustratad impraa- •ion. or tha bacic covar whan appropriata. All othar original copiaa ara fiimad baginning on tha first paga with a printad or illtiatratad impraa- •ion, and anding on tha last paga with a printad or illustratad imprasslon. Tha last racordad frama on aach mleroficha •hall contain tha aymbol — ^ (moaning "CON- TINUED"), or tha aymbol ▼ (moaning "END"), whichavar applias. Laa imagaa suh^antaa ont 4t4 raproduitas avac la plua grand soin. compta tanu da la condition at da la nattatA da Taxampiaira film*, at an conformit* avac las conditions du contrat da filmaga. Laa axamplairas originaux dont la couvartura wi paplar aat imprimto sont filmis it commandant par la pramiar plat at an tarminant soit par la damlAra paga qui comporta una amprainta d'imprassion ou d'illustration, soit par la sacond plat, salon la cas. Tous laa autras axamplairas originaux aont fiimto an commanpant par la pramiAra paga qui comporta una amprainta d'impraasion ou d'illustration at an tarminant par la damlAra paga qui comporta una talla amprainta. Un daa symbolaa suhranta apparattra sur la damlAra imaga da chaqua microficha^ salon la caa: la symbola — »> signifia "A SUIVRE", la aymbola ▼ signifia "FIN". Mapa. piatas, charts, ate., may ba fiimad at diffarant raduction ratios. Thcaa too larga to ba antiraly inciudad in ona axposura ara fllmad baginning in tha uppar laft hand comar. laft to right and top to bottom, aa many framaa as raquirad. Tha following diagrams illustrata tha mathod: l.aa cartaa, planchaa. tablaaux. ate., pauvant itra filmte i daa taux da rMuction diff Grants. Lorsqua la documant aat trop grand pour Atra raproduit an un saul cliche, 11 aat film* i partir da i'angia sup4riaur gaucha, da gauciia i droita. at da haut an bamr an pranant la nombra d'Imagas n^cassaira. Las diagrsmmaa suivanta illuatrant la m^thoda. ; . t 2 3 1 2 3 ♦ 5 6 M ■d^f \ tm ^ ^f/V /^-^ CIRCUMNAYIGATION OF THE GLOBE. < )^ Canoe of the Tonga bland*. NEW-YORK : HARPER & BROTHERS. 18 3 7. iy Jtmtknamm-' ■■■ MuuMMMiiv ¥\i ,« r? M < ^ ■'3 in :.!.' ?• ^- ! f •■ ■.'%, i ./ ■ AN HISTORICAL ACCOUNT or THI CIRCUMNAVIGATION or THB GLOBE, AND or * THE PROGRESS OF DISCOVERT IN THB PACIFIC OCEAN, FROM THE VOYAGE OF MAGELLAN TO THE DEATH OF COOK. ILLUSTRATED HT NUIfBROnS ENGRAVINGS. NEW-YORK: HARPER & BROTHERS, 83 CLIFF-ST. 18 37. 1 ^-;x./ M f. '4-i. ..'V-*- ■•) :■ -i t ' ' ;- /: '-; >;'■ '-wru': ,■ 'iX. '59134 A 4^3/.^^'/ r^ .t.a-"S'|*^^'j» ^^'^^ ,Hj; vu: V'e5»:i^£4, ."^ i: 't ; h fr ■■■' !.■ PREFACE. I .' t The object of the present work is to give a com- prehensive history of the various circumnavigations of the globe, and to describe at the same time the progress of discovery in Polynesia. The innumerable islands which are scattered over the vast expanse of the Pacific have in all times excited the liveliest regard. In few regions of the earth does Nature present a more fascinating •aspect, or lavish her gifts with more bountiful profusion. Favoured by mild and serene skies, the fertile soil of these insular territories produces the most luxuriant vegetation, which, with its many rich and varied hues, clothes the whole land, from the margin of the sea to the summits of the loftiest mountains. As the voyager sails along their pic* turesque shores, he is refreshed by perfumes borne on the breeze, from woods which at the same time display the bud, the blossom, and the mature fruit. Nor is the character of their inhabitants less cal- culated to inspire interest. In countries where the A 2 VI PREFACE. bread-tree afTords " the unreaped harvest of unfur- rowed fields," where the people neither plough nor sow, nor do any work, their first visiters believed that they had at length discovered the happy region with which poets adorned the golden age. To later explorers, as has been remarked by Humboldt, " the state of half-civilization in which these islanders are found gives a peculiar charm to the descrip- tion of their manners. Here a king followed by a numerous suite comes aiid presents the productions of his orchard ; there the funeral-festival imbrowns the shade of the lofty forest. Such pictures have more attraction than those which portray the solemn gravity of the inhabitants of the Missouri or the Maranon." >■ In every compendium of voyages, from the days of Purchas downward, a prominent place has been assigned to the discoveries and exploits of those navigators whose course has led them to encompass the world, whether in search of imaginary conti- nents, in quest of warlike adventure, or in the peace- ful pursuit of scientific knowledge. But the manner in which the history of circumnavigation is given in most of the works alluded to, tends to repel rather than to invite the attention of the common reader. In the imperfect abridgments which have from time to time appeared, no endeavour is made to supply the deficiencies, or to illustrate the obscu- J ^j'"- n PREFACE. Vll f t U- rities of the original narrative, by the light of more recent discovery. The mind is wearied by innu- merable repetitions, and perplexed by irreconcilable discrepances. The vast extent, too, of some col- lections cannot fail to deter a majority of inquirers : in one of which (Bibliothdque Universelle des Voy- ages, par M. Albert Mont^mont, in 8vo., Paris, 1833-1835) the " Voyages autour du Monde" oc- cupy about twenty volumes. The excellent work of the late Admiral Bumey may be said to be almost the only one in which an attempt has been made to digest this mass of crude materials in a methodical and connected narrative, possessing the advantages of perspicuous arrange- ment, and elucidated by the investigations of recent navigators. Of the " Chronological History of the Discoveries in the South Sea" every one must speak with respect, as of a book distinguished by great erudition and by laborious research. Ii chiefly ad- dresses itself, however, to the professional and scientific student ; and is, indeed, obviously ren- dered unfit for general perusal by the copiousness and minuteness of its technical details. Though bringing down the annals of maritime enterprise no farther than to the commencement of the reign of George III., it occupies five volumes in quarto, leaving the history of the short period comprehend- ed between that epoch and the death of Cook (un- .,.' f^ fW PREFACE. doubtedly the most interesting of the whole) to be pursued in works extending to more than three times the same amount. Nor must it be overlooked, that however excel- lent the performance of Admiral Bumey may have been in its own day, it has now become in some measure antiquated, from the great accessions which geographical science has received since his work was submitted to the public. To our knowl- edge of the Archipelago of Tonga and Feejee, great contributiofis have been lately made by Mariner and D'Urville. Otaheite and the Society Islands have been elucidated with singular fidelity by the Reverend Mr. Ellis, as well as by Messrs. Bennet and Tyerman. The labours of the gentlemen just named, with those of the American missionary, Mr. Stewart, of the officers of H. M. S. the Blonde, and of MM. Morineau and Botta, have greatly enlarged our acquaintance with the Sandwich group. Much light has been thrown on New Zealand by the writings of Cruise, Rutherford, Yate, Earle, D'Ur- ville, and the contributors to the Missionary Regis- ter. The Ladrone or Marian Islands, the Naviga- tors*, and the vast range of the Carolines, have been for the first time satisfactorily illustrated by the in- quiries of Freycinet and Kotzebue. The voyager last mentioned, as also his countryman Billinghau- sen, M. Duperrey, and Captain Beechey, have PREFACE. IX 4 completed the discovery of the Low or Coral Ar- chipelago; and the researches of Dillon and of D'Urviile have supplied much valuable information on the state and productions of the New Hebrides. In preparing this volume, the greatest pains have been taken to turn to advantage the important in- vestigations of the writers just named ; and while much interesting matter has been derived from the collections of Debrosses, Dalrymple, and Burney, the work, it is hoped, will afford evidence that in no instance where they were accessible have the original authorities been neglected. The present volume comprises the history of cir- cumnavigation from Magellan to Cook — a period of more than two centuries and a half — and details the proceedings of those navigators who effected discoveries in the Pacific during the same time. It will be followed by a second, bringing down the narrative to the present day ; exhibiting a copious view of the recent French, Russian, and German voyages, hitherto but little known in this country ; and containing a general chart of the Pacific, the appearance of which has been postponed in order that it may embrace some late discoveries of which no authentic intelligence has as yet been promulgated. The achievements of three circumnavigators — Drake, Cavendish, and Dampier — seemed to de- ■VJMiUt j^Mi^AJfty^: X PREFACE. serve a more minute description '.han was com- patible with the design of this work, and an early number of the Edinburgh Cabinet Library was devoted to an account of their lives and actions.* To the former impressions of that volume was pre- fixed a brief notice of some of the first discoveries in the South Sea, which, as it is rendered super- fluous by the more ample details now given, has been withdrawn in the last edition, in order to make way for several interesting facts and illustrations, derived from various books that have appeared in Great Britain and on the Continent since it was originally issued. Edinburgh, June 1, 1836. rk^ai V , <* No. XXX, of Harpera' Faimly Library.) D E CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. DISCOVIRY OF THB SOUTH SEA— 1513. Geographical Knowledge of the Ancients.— Their Ignorance of a Sea to the East of China.— First seen by Mar<*n Polo (1271- 1295). — Progress of Modern Discovery. — Columbus (1492). — Papal Bull of Partition (1494).— Cabral (1500).— Cabot (1497- 1517).— Cortereal (1500).— Pinzon (1500).— Vasco Nunez de Balboa hears of the South Sea.— Its Discovery (26th Sept., 1513) .......... Page 17 CHAPTER II. CIRCUHNAVIOATION OF MAGELLAN— 1519-1522. Magellan's Birth and Services. — Proposals to the Spanish Court accepted. — Sails on his Voyage (20th Sept., 1519). — Anchors at Port San Julian. — Transactions there. — Description of the Natives. — Discovers the Strait (21 st October, 1520).— Enters the South Sea (28th November). — The Unfortunate Islands. — The Ladrunes (6th March, 1521). — The Island of Mazagua or Limasava. — Zebu. — Intercourse with the Natives.— Death of Magellan (27th Aprih. — His Character. — Fleet proceeds to Borneo. — Arrives at Tiaore. — The Ship Vitoria reaches Spain (6th Sept., 1522).- Fate of the Trinidad.— Results of the Ex- pedition . . 30 CHAPTER III. DI800VIRIB8 AND CIRCUMNAViaATIONS FROM MAGELLAN TO THE END OF THB SIXTEENTH CENTURY- 1522-1600. Expedition of Loyosa (1525).— Discovery of Papua or New (Guinea (1526).— Voyages of Saavedra (1527-1529).— Of Vil- xu CONTENTS. n lalobos (1542).--Of Legaspi (1564).— Of Juan Fernandez (1563-1574). — Expedition of Mendana, and Discovery of the Solomon Islands (1567). — John Oxenham, the first English- man that sailed on the Pacific (1575). — Circumnavigation of Sir Francis Drake (1577-1580).— Expedition of Sarmiento (1579).— Circumnavigation of Cavendish (1586-1588).— His Second Voyage (1591). — The Falklard Islands discovered (1592).— Expedition of Sir Richard Hawkins (1593).— Second Voyage of Mendana (1595). — The Marquesas. — Santa Cruz. — Expedition of five Dutch Vessels (1598).— Circumnavigation of Van Noort (1598-1601 ).— Retrospect . . . Page 54 CHAPTER IV. / CIRCUMNAVIGATIONS AND DISCOVERIES OF THE SEVENTEENTH ! CENTURY- 1600-1700. Voyage of Quiros (1605-1606).— La Sagitaria.— Australia del Espiritu Santo. — Luis Vaez de Torres discovers the Strait between New Holland and New Guinea (1606). — Circumnav- igation of Spilbergen (1614-1617).— Of Schouten and Le Maire (1615-1617).— Discovery of Staten Land and Cape Horn. — Cocos, Good Hope, and Horn Islands. — New Ireland. — Expedition of the Nodals (1618).— Discovery of New Hol- land by Dirck Hatichs (1616). — Circumnavigation of the Nas- sau Fleet (1623-1626).— Voyage of Tasman (1642).— Discov- ery of Van Diemen's Land, of New Zealand, and the Friendly Islands.— Voyages of Hendrick Brower (1642) and La Roche (1675).— Expeditions of the Bucaniers (1683-1691).— Discov- ery of Davis's or Easter Island ( 1687).— Voyage of Strong, and Discovery of Falkland Sound (1690).— Retrospect . 78 , ' CHAPTER V. CIRCUMNAVIGATIONS FROM THE BEGINNING OF THE EIGH- TEENTH CENTURY TO THE REIGN OF GEORGE III. — 1700- 1761. Circumnavigation of Dampier and Funnel (1703-1706), ol Woodes Rogers (1708-1711), of Clipperton and Shelvocke (1719-1722)# of Roggewein (1721-1723).— Easter Island.— Pernicious Islands.- Circumnavigation of Anson ' 1740-1744). — Objects of the Expedition. — Passage of Cape Horn. — Se- vere Sufiferings of the Crew.— Juan Fernandez.— Cruise on the American Coasts. — Burningof Payta.— Loss of the Glou- cester.— Tinian.— Capture of tne Manilla Galleon.— Return of Cue Centurion to England.— Fate of the Wager . Hi r CONTENTS* Xm CHAPTER VL CIBCUMNAVI0ATI0N8 or BYSON, WALLI8, AND CABTSSBT— 1764-17G9. Vovage of Byron (1764-1766).— Its Objects.— Vain Search for Pepys' Island.— Discovery of the Islands of Disappointment^ King George, Prince of Wales, Danger, and Duke of York.— Circumnavigations of Wallis and Carteret (1766-1769).— Their Separation (1767).— Wallis discovers the Islands of Whitsunday, Queen Charlotte, Egmont, Cumberland, and Osnaburg.— Arrives at Otaheite.— Transactions there.— Sails for Tinian.— Anchors in the Downs (1768).— Carteret discov- ers Pitcaim's Island (1767).— Santa Cruz or Queen Char- lotto's Islands.- The Solomons.— St. George's Channel and New Ireland.— New Hanover.— Arrives at Spithead (1769) Page 143 CHAPTER VH- CIRCUMNAVIGATION OW BOUOAINVILLS— 176&-1769 Project for colonizing the Falkland Islands (1763).— Their Ces* sion to Spain (1767).— Disputes with England (1769-1771).— Settlements abandoned (1772). — Bougainville discovers the Dangerous Archipelago (1768).—Maitea.— Otaheite.— Inci* dents during his Stay there.— Takes a Native with him.— The Grand Cyclades or Australia del Espiritu Santo. — Lou- isiade or the Solomons. — Bouca. — Choiseul and Bougainville Islands.— Return to France (1769). — The Otaheitan in Paris. ^—Voyage of Marion (1771).— Expedition of Surville(1769). — Terre des Arsacides.- Voyage of Shortland (1788).— New Georgia. — Retrospect ..... , 176 CHAPTER VIII. LIFE OF COOK PREVIOUS TO HIS FIRST VOYAOS— 172S>l76d< Birth and Parentage of Cook. — His Education.— His Indentores with a Draper.— Apprenticeship on board a Ccilier. — Volun- teers into the Navy (1755). — Appointed Master of the Mercu- ry (1759). — His Services at Quebec.->-Hair-breadth Escape. — He first studies Euclid.— His MarriBse (1768).- Made Ma- rine Surveyor of Newfoundland and LrubnMlor (1764).— Com- municates an Observation of an EcUimm to the Royal Society B ■L K. XIV /.• CONTENTS. • t^ . (1767).—Hi8toryof the Transits of Venus.— Predicted in 182^ by Kepler.— Discovery and Observation of Horrox (1639).— First Appreciation of its Uses.— Professor James Gregory (1663).— Dr. Edmund Halley (1677-1716).— His Exhortation to future Astronomers.- Transit of 1761.— Preparations for that of 1769.— Proposal to send a SWp with Observers to the South Sea.— Cook promoted to the Rank of Lieutenant, and appointed to conduct it (25th May, 1768).— His Choice of a Vessel. — Sir Joseph Banks determuies to join the Expedition. --'Preparations and Instructions for the Voyage . Page 202 i I >■ r; CHAPTER IX. *.; ! FIKST CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF COOK— 1768-1771. DepartuHB (26th August, 1768).— Adventure on Tierra del Fuego- (J6th January, 1769). — Discovery of Lagoon, Tlirum Cap,/ cow, The Groups, and Chain Islands. — Arrival at Otaheite.— Observation of the Transit, and Incidents during their Stay, — Discovery of the Islands of Tetburoa, Huaheine, Ulieteay Otaha, I'ubai, Bolabola, Maurua, and Oheteroa.— Makes the East Coast of New Zealand (7th August).- Affrays with the Natives. — Doubles the North Cape. — Discovers Cook'» Straits, and circumnavigates the Islands. — Sails for the Easif Coast of New Holland. — Discovery of New South Wale» (igth April, 1770).— Botany Bay.— Intercourse with the Na' tives. — Port Jackson. — Daigerous Position of the Ship.—' Reaches the most northerly Point of Australia.— Rediscovery of Torres' Strait. — New Guinea. — Timor.— Batavia.— Mor- tality among the Crew.— Anival in England (12th June^. 1771) 21g» CHAPTER X. • . SECOND CIRCOMNATIGATION OP COOK— 1772-1775. Objects of the Voyage.— Departure (13th July, 1772).— Search K>r Bouvet's Land.— The Southern Continent.— Aurora Au»' trails.- Arrival at New Zealand. — Visit to the Low Archipel- ago.— Otaheite.— Huaheine.— Ulietea.— Rediscovery of thflT Tonga or !^endly Islands.- Second Visit to New Zealand, •^Separation of the Ships. — Search for the Terra Australis re- sumed. — Highest South Latitude attained (30th Januaiy^ 1774). — Dangerous Illness of Cook. — Eastier Island. — Lair Marquesas.— The Society Islands.— The Tonga Islands.— Nttw Hebrides.— Discovery of New Caledonia.— Norfolk IsB I *\i. CONTENTS. X? «Dd.— Third Visit to New Zealand.— Run acro«s the Pacific. — Survey of Tierra del Fuego and Staten Land. — Discovery of New South Georgia and Sandwich Land.— Return to the Cape of Good Hope.— Adventures of Captain Fumeauz.— Conclusion of the Voyage (30th July, 1775).— Honours paid to Cook.— His Narrative of the Expedition.- Omai in Eng- land Page 246 .CHAPTER XL cook's third voyaok— 1776-1780. Cbjectfl of the Expedition.— Departure (12th July, 1776). — Ker- fuelen's or Desolation Island. — Van Diemen's Land. — New Zealand. — Mangeea, Wenooa-ette, and Wateeoo. — Palmers- ton Island. — Transactions at the Friendly Islands.— The So- ciety Islands.— Otaheite.— Eimeo.— Huaheine. — Settlement of Omai there, and Notice of his Life. — Ulietea. — Bolabola!— Cook sails Northward.— Christmas Island. — Discovers the Sandwich Archipelago (18th January, 1778). — Makes the Coast of New Albion.— Nootka Sound.— Cook's River.-^ Behring's Strait.— Icy Cape. — Progress to the North arrested. —Revisits the Sandwich islands. — Reception by the Natives. — Cook is worshipped as their God Orono. — Sails from Kara- kaooa Bay, but is obliged to return to it. — Hostile Disposition of the Natives.— The Discovery's Cutter is stolen.- tiook goes on Shore to recover it. — Interview with the King. — A Chief slain.- Attack by the Natives. — Death of Cook (14th Februa^, 1779).— Recovery and Burial of Part of his Remains. —The Voyage is resumed.— Death of Captain Clerke.— The Ships reach China.— Fur-trade.-Arrival m England (4th Oc- tober, 1780) 287 CHAPTER XIL :;& OBSKRVATIONS ON THB CHARACTIR OP COOK. Honours paid to him. — Personal Appearance. — ^Temper and Habits.- His Children and Widow. — Energy and Perseve- rance.— Self>education. — His vast Contributions to Geogra- phy. — Skill in delineating and fixing his Discoveries. — Dis* covery of the Means of preserving the Health^of Seamen.— Advantages derived from his Voyages. — Progress of Civiliza- tion in Polynesia.— Conclusion 343 1 1 M **»" mr u . f I I 1 1, ENGRAVINGS. VioifBTTB— Canoe of the Tonga or Friendly Islandi. ManofTierradei Fuego 104 View in the Island of New Caledonia . . . . IH Woman of Edward Davis's or Easter Island ... 124 Female Dancer of Otaheite 186 War-canoe of New Zealand . . . 233 Tupapow and Chief Mourner in Otaheite . 258 Monuments on Easter Island 267 Man -of the Island of Tanna, in the Arch^Mlago of the New Hebrides 2!74 Man of New Zealand 2!77 Sledge of Kamtschatka 2B6 Weapons of the New Zealanders 291 Man of Sandwich Islands in a Mask .... 312 Man of Nootka Sound 316 Woman of Nootka Sound 317 Man of Prince WilUam's Sound 318 Woman of Prince William's Sound .... 319 Canoe of Oonalaska , ^ SSS t^^,**t- ■ CIRCUMNAVIGATION or THE GLOBE. ^ ^ CHAPTER I. Discovery of the South Sea. Geographical knowledge of the Ancients.— Their ignorance of a Sea to the East of China.— First seen by Marco Polo.— Progress of Modem DisGOTery.-Columbtts.— Papal Bull of Partition.— Cabral.— Cabot.— Cortereal.—Pinxon.—Vasco Nunez de Balboa hears of the South Sea.— Its Discovery. The existence of the vast ocean which separates the con- tinents of Asia and America was never imagined by the an- cients ; nor, indeed, do they appear to have nad any certain knowledge that Asia on the east was bounded by the sea. Homer had figured the world as a circle begirt by " the great strength of ocean," and this belief in a circumambient flood long continued to prevail. It was implicitly received by many geographers, and, being carried onwarid with the advance of science, was from time to time reconciled to the varying theories and conjectures of the increased knowledge of suc- ceeding ages. Thus, long after the spherical form of the earth was taught, the existence of its ocean-girdle was credited ; and in the geographical systems of Eratosthenes, Strabo, Mela, and others, the waters of the Atlantic were depicted as laving on the one hand the shores of Europe, and encircling on the other the mysterious regions of Scythia and India. Nay, so far had the speculations of philosophy outstripped the rude navigation of the times, that the possibility of crossing this unknown ocean was more than once contemplated, l&ving B 2 u 1 :i I ! ('i 1 18 DISCOVERY OF THE SOUTH SEA. fonned an estimate of the circumference of the glohe, Aristtf* tie conceived that the distance between the Pillars of Hercules and India must be small, and that a communication might be effected between them. Seneca with more confidence af- firmed, that with a fair wind a ship would sail from Spain to the Indies in a few days. But these notions were far from be- ing universally received. Herodotus had early denied the ex- istence of this circle of waters ; and those who maintained the affirmative, reasoned on grounds manifestly hypothetical, and beyond the narrow limits of their knowledge. Of the northern countries of Asia they knew nothing, nor were they acquainted with the extensive regions beyond the Ganges — a vast space that they filled with their Eastern Sea, which thus commenced where their information stopped, and all beyond dark. The progress of discovery at length brought to was light the existence of lands in those portions of the globe sup- posed to be covered by the ocean ; but, proceeding with un- due haste, it was next imagined that Asia extended eastward in an indefinite expanse, ft was figured thus by Ptolemy, the last and greatest of the ancient geographers. He removed from his map the Atlanticum Mare Orientale (the eastern At- lantic), whicn had so long marked the confines of geographi- cal research, and exhibited the continent as stretchmg far be- yond the limits previously assigned to it. His knowledge did not enable him to delineate its eastern extremity, or the ocean beyond : he was therefore induced to terminate it by a boun- dary of " land unknown.*' With Ptolemy ceased not only the advance of science, but even the memory of almost all that had been formerly known. The long night which succeeded the decline of the Roman empire was now closing in, and a dreary space intervened be- fore its shadows were mspelled by the dawn of a brighter day than the world had yet beheld. The first gleam of light came from the East, where the Arabs pursued the study of geography with the utmost ardour. Their systems again revived the belief in a circumanibient ocean, which bound the earth like a zone, and in which the world floated like an egg in a basin. That portion of this belt of waters which was imagined to flow round the northeastern shores of Asia, they called bv the name of ** The Sea of Pitchy Darkness." The Atlantic had by the Greeks been regarded ms a fairy scene, where the Islands of the Blessed were ^aced, DISCOYSRY OF THE SOUTH 8EA. 19 in which, under calm skies, sunounded by unruffled seas and amid groves of the sweetest odour, the favoured of the gods «njoved everlasting peace and happiness. This fable found no place among the Arabs, who bestowed on that ocean the name of " The Sea of Darkness," and filled their ims^na- tions with appalling pictures of its storms and dangers. Xerif a1 Edrisi, one of the most eminent of their geographers, who wrote about the middle of the twelfth century, observes — -" No one has been able to verify anything concerning it, on account of its difficult and perilous navigation, its great ob- scurity, its profound depth and frequent tempests ; through fear of its mighty fishes and its haughty winds ; yet there are many islands m it, some peopled, others uninhabited. There is no mariner who dares to enter into its deep waters ; or, if any have done so, they have merely kept along its coasts, fear- ful of departing from them. The waves of this ocean, al- though they roll as high as mountains, yet maintain themselves without breaking ; for if they broke, it would be impossible for a ship to plough them.*' But the mystery of this " Sea of Pitchy Darkness" was at length removed. Towards the end of the thirteenth century, the celebrated Venetian traveller, Marco Polo, succeeded m penetrating across the Asiatic continent, and reached the far- thest shores of China. He brought back to Europe tales of oriental pomp and magnificence far beyond any previous con- ception. His work exercised the greatest influence on tho minds of that age, which, prone to belief in marvellous stories, found unbounded gratification in the glowing descriptions of the wealth of those eastern countries ; the extent and ar- chitectural wonders of their cities ; the numbers and glittering array of their armies ; and, above all, the inconceivable splen- dour of the court of the great Kublai Khan, his vast palaces, his guards, his gay summer residences, with their magnificent gardens watered by beautiful streams, and adorned with the fairest fruits and flowers. Among these visions of immeas- urable riches, a prominent place was occupied by the sea which was found to be the eastern boundary of China. He drew a picture of it, widely differing from the gloom and tempests with which the Arabs had invested its waters. He spoke of its extent, so great, " that, according to the report of experienced pilots and mariners who frequent it, and to whom the truth must be known, it contains no fewer than seven i so DISCOVERY OF THE SOUTH SEA. u f thousand four hundred and forty islands, mostly inhabited.'* As to their products, he told that no trees grew there that did not yield a fragrant perfume. He dwelt on the abundance of their spices and dru^s, and summed up the whole by declaring, that " it was impossible to estimate the value of the gold and other articles found in these islands !" But all others were outshone by the more lavish splendours of Zipangu, the mod- em Japan. There, were to be found abundance of precious Stones, and large quantities of pearls, some white, and others of a beautiful pink colour. The ii^abitants were of a fair complexion, well made, and of civilized manners. "They have gold," it is said, '* in the greatest plenty, its sources be- ing inexhaustible ; but as the lung does not allow of its being exported, few merchants visit the country, nor is it frequented by much shipping from other parts. To this circumstance we are to attribute the extraordinary richness of the sovereign's palace, according to what we are told by those who have ac-> cess to the place. The entire roof is covered with a plating of gold, in the same manner as we cover houses, or more properly churches, with lead. The ceilings of the halls are of the same precious metal ; many of the apartments have small tables of pure gold, considerably thick ; and the win- dows also have golden ornaments. So vast, indeed," ex- claims the Venetian, " are the riches of the palace, that it is impossible to convey an idea of them !"^ Marco Polo was careful to explain, that the sea in which Zipangu and its neigh- bouring islands were placed was not a gulf or branch of the ocean, like the English or the iEgean Seas, but a large and boundless expanse of waters. Thus early was the Asiatic margin of the South Sea made known ; but more than two centuries elapsed before its oppo- site boundary was reached, or a European ship was launched upon its waves. The Atlantic shores of Africa were the first scenes of that career of modem discovery which characterized the spirit of the fifteenth century. The main object was the circumnavi- fation of that continent, in order to open a direct path to ndia, the grand source of commerce and wealth ; and, under the auspices of Prince Henry of Portugal, this end was pur- * The Travels of Marco Polo, a Venetian, In the Thirteenth Century, translated froni the Italian, with Notes by William Marsden, F.R,S, {.»ndon, 1818. 4to, p. fi69, et seq. DISCOVERY OP THE SOUTH SEA. 21 tued with a steadiness and perseverance which produced the most important results. Then was inspired a confidence, hitherto unfelt, in the art of navij^tion ; its capabilities were much advanced, and the range of its enterprise extended far beyond all previous limits. A passion for maritime adventure was also spread throughout Europe, and men's minds were excited to daring undertakings and bold speculations. Atten- tion was turned to the unknown waters of the Atlantic, and imagination wantoned in figuring the wealth, the wonders, and the mysteries of the lands that were hidden in its bosom. The fables of antiquity were revived ; the Atalantis of Plato came again to be believed ; and to its classic fictions were added the marvels of many a Gothic and monkish legend, and the visions of splendour seen in the glory of the setting sun. Yet all these glittering fancies failed to tempt any mariner to sail boldly forth into the ocean, and explore the secrets of its depths. At length arose Christopher Columbus — a man of whora it has been happily remarked, that the narrative of his life is the link which connects the history of the Old World with that of the New. From the study of ancient and modem geographers he became convinced of the existence of lands which might be reached by sailing westward. He argued that the eartn was a sphere, and, following Ptolemy, he assigned to it a circum- ference of twenty-four hours. He estimated that fifteen of these were known to the ancients, and that what remained to be explored was occupied by the eastern countries of Asia aild the sea seen by Marco Polo, which he believed to be identical with the Atlantic. He was therefore firmly assured that, by proceeding westward across this ocean, he would arrive at the shores of the Asiatic continent and its neighbouring island of Zipangu, of which the glowing description left by the Venetian traveller seems to have constantly haunted his thoughts. After many years of doubt and disappointment spent in soli- citing various princes to engage in the enterprise, he at length set sail from Spain on the 3d of August, 1492, and on the 12th of October following landed on San Salvador, one of the Ba- hama Islands. After cruising for some time among this cluster, believed by him to be part of the great Archipelago mentioned by Marco Polo, he discovered the Island of Cuba, which he concluded to be a portion of the continent of Asia. He next visited the beautiful Island of Hayti or St. Domingo, and, hav- ing loaded his vessels with specunens of the inmkbitants and .' n DISCOVERY OP THS ROVTR «IA. ,;■« productions of this new country, returned to Europe. In his third voyage Columbus discovered the continent of America, and looked upon it as the Aurea Cheidonesus of the ancients, the peninsula of Malacca in modem maps. As he sailed along its shores, he received tidings of a great water situated to the south, and, conceiving that it must be connected with the Gulf of Mexico, determined to search for the strait or channel of conununication. liis last voyage was dedicated to this fruitless attempt ; and he died in the jfinn conviction that this southern sea was the Indian Ocean, and that the lands he had visited belonged to the eastern boundary of Asia. How very far did he under-estimate the grandeur of his achievements ! He thought that he had found but a new path to countries known m old, whUe he had in truth discovered a continent hitherto unimagined, yet rivalling the ancient world in extent. Who ^ill not share in the regret which has been so eloquently expressed, that the gloom, the penury, and disappointment which overcast his latter years, were visited by none of those bright and consoUng hopes which would have flowed from the revelation of the future glory of " the splendid empires which were to spread over the beautiful world he had discovered ; and the nations, and tongues, and languages which were to fill its lands with his renown, and to revere and bless his name to the latest posterity 1"* To secure the possession of the vast countries discovered by Columbus, the King of Spain applied for the sanction of the pope. Martin V. and other pontiffs had granted to Por- tugal all the countries which it might discover from Cape Bo- jador and Cape Nun to the Indies ; and the Portuguese mon- arch now complained that his neighbour, in visiting America, had violated tne rights conferred on him by the holy father. While this complaint was undergoing investigation, the court of Castile exerted its influence with Pope Alexander VI. ; and on the 4th of May, 1493, a bull was issued, which most materially influenced the future course of maritime discovery. By this important document, the head of the Catholic Church, " with the plenitude of apostolic power, by the authority of * History of tbe Life and Vo' ^ges of Christopher Columbus, by Wash' inf ton Irving, vol. iv., p. 61— an admirable boolc, in which industry of resMurch, elegance and loftiness of thought and diction, have combined to jrear a work, which, surpassing all others on tbe subject, wiU itsdf pn)b* ibiy never be surpassed. DISCOVERY Of THE SOUTH «BA. 2d God Omnipotent granted to him through bleued Pet«r, and of the vicarship of Jesus Christ, which he exercises upon earth," assigned to the Spanish sovereigns " all the islands and main-lands, with all their dominions, cities, castles, places, and towns, and with all their rights, jurisdictions, and apper- tenances, discovered, and which shall be discovered," to Uie west of an ideal line drawn from pole to pole, at the distance of a hundred leagues westward of the Azores. Thus did Spain at once acquire " an empire far more extensive than that which seven centuries of warfare obtained for the Ro- mans !"* This munificent grant was accompanied with one important injunction : Alexander adjured the sovereigns " by the holy obedience which you owe us, that you appoint to the said main-lands and islands upright men and fearing God, learned, skilful, and expert in instructing the foresaid natives and inhabitants in the Catholic faith, and in teaching them good morals, employing for that purpose all requisite dili- gence." The tenors of Divine wrath were thundered against Uiose who should infringe the papal grant. ** Let no person presume with rash boldness to contravene this our donation, decree, inhibition, and will. For if any person presumes to do so, be it known to him that he will incur the indignation of Almighty God, and of the blessed apostles Peter and I*aul."t Even by orthodox princes, however, these threat- enings were held light. As has been remarked by Purchas, "the Portugalls regarded them not; and not the bull, but * Memoir of C!o]unibUR, by D. O. B. Spotorno, Professor of Eloquence in the University of Genoa, published in " Memorials of C!olumbus, or a Ckillection of authentic Documents of that celebrated Navigator, now first published flrom the original Manuscrijtts, by order of the Decarions of Genoa. Translated flrom the Spanish and Italian." London, 1823' 6vo. t The original bull may be consulted in Parcbas, vol. i.« p. 13-19. A translation flrom a copy exhibiting some variations, but of no great con' sequence, is msertea in the " Memorials of Ctrtumbus" sbove quoted* document txxvii., p. 172-183. This last has been followed in the quota' lions ffiven in the present work. The copy in Purcbas is accompanied by a chapter of '< Animadversions on the said Bull of Pope Alexander,** Which cannot Ail to gratify the curious in abuse and invective, in which It will scarcely yield the palm to any of the "fly tings" of our eariier fioottish poets, or to the controversial writings of Scaliger, Milton, or Sal' masius. In one sentence Alexander is called ** Heire of all the Vices of ail the Popes,"—" the Plague-sore into that Chayre of Psstylenee,"— ** the Monster of Men, or indeed rather an incarnate devill,"— so neces* Mury did Purchss consider ir •' not to sullbr this bull to passe unbaired !'r 84 DISCOVERY OF THE SOUTH SEA. Ir'l I other compromise stayed them from open hostilitie." By an agreement between the two nations of the Peninsula, conclu« ded in 1494, it was covenanted, that the line of partition de- scribed in the ecclesiastical document should be extended 270 leagues farther to the west, and that all beyond this boundary should belong to Castile, and all to the eastward to Portugal.* Thus their territories were defined with sufficient certainty on one side of the globe ; but the limits on the other were left perfectly vague, and became a fertile subject of dispute. Meantime, the Portuguese had achieved the grand object which they had so long laboured to attain. In 1^6, Barthol- omew Diaz reached the southern extremity of Africa, which he named the Cape of Storms ; but the Portuguese monarch gave it the more auspicious title of Good Hope. Eleven years after, Vasco de Gama doubled this dreaded promontory, and conducted a fleet to the rich shores of India — an event which v|as destined to exercise on i^Iie career of American discovery more than an indirect influence, powerful as that was. The vast treasures which Portugal drew from countries where the harvest of the adventurer was prepared before he visited the field, mightily inflamed the avidity of Spain, and breathed a new spirit of ardour into her enterprises. Nor did the former kingdom fail to contribute her exertions to- wards extending the knowledge of the new continent. In the year 1500, the second expedition which was fitted out for India, under the command of Pedro Alvarez de Cabral, standing westward to clear the shores of Africa, discovered the coast of Brazil, end took possession of it in name of the Portuguese crown. It has been well observed by an eminent writer on this subject, '* that Columbus's discovery of the * This agreement (sometimes called the treaty or Tordesillas) was concluded on 7th June, biit was not subscribed by Ferdinand till ad July, 1493, and by John not till 27th February, 1494. It was confirmed by a bull in 1506. The late Admiral Bumey, whose work we will have oc- casion so often to mention with respect, writes of this agreement—" At the instance of the Portuguese, with the consent of the pope, in 1494, the line of partition was hy agreement removed 270 leagues more to the west, tliat it might accord with their possessions in the Brazils."'- Chronological History of the Discoveries in the South Sea, vol. i., p. 4. It is impossible to admit the existence of the motive here assigned ; fbr Brazil was not discovered by Cabral until six years after the date of the agreement.— Purchas, vol. i., p. 30; Robertson's Hist, of America, book li. ; Irvine's Columbus, iii., 147, and aathorities there quoted. It i» proper to mention that Bumey is by no means singular in this mistake. II DISCOVERY Of Tnt SOUTH SEA* $6 New World was the effort of an active genius, enlightened by science, guided by experience, and acting upon a regulat plan, executed with no less courage than perseverance. But from this adventure of the Portuguese, it appears that chance might have accomplished that great design which it is now the pride of human reason to have formed and perfected. If the sagacity of Columbus had not conducted mankind to America, Cabral, by a fortunate accident, might have led them a few years later to the knowledge of that extensive continent."* We have seen that even Portugal yielded but a scanty deference to the right which the pope had usurped of bestow-^ ing the world at his will ; and England was still less inclined to acquiesce in such an assumption of power^ So early as 1497, an armament sailed from that country, conducted, under letters-patent from Henry VII., by John Cabot^ a native of Venice settled at Bristol, and by his three sons, Louis, Se^ bastian, and Sanchez. t The object appears to have been to iind a western passage northward of the new Spanish discov" eries, and by this route to reach India. In prosecution of this great scheme, Cabot, on the 24th of June, 1497, ap proached the American continent, probably at Newfoundland } and his son Sebastian, in two successive voyages, performed in 1498 and 1517, explored a large extent of the coast, from Hudson's Bay on the north as far as Florida on the south. Although unsuccessful in the attainment of their immediate purpose, these expeditions have justly entitled the English to the high distinction of being the first discoverers of the main- land of America— Columbus not having seen any part of it till tho 1st of August, 1498. In 1500, three years after the first voyage of Cabot, Caspar Cortereal, a Portuguese gen^ * Robertson's Itistory of America, book ii; Caru must be taken not to overvalue the merits 01' Cabi-al. It should be recollected that his dis< covery was the result of Chance; and further, that Krazil had fteen vis- ited some months previously by Diego Lepe, and still earlier by Vicente Yanes Pinzon, who was the first to cross the equator in the Atlantic. t A late acute writer has started a question as to the coniparativa agency of John and SebastiaiiC&bot. (Memoir of Sebastian Cabot, London, 1631 ; p 43, et seq.) This point has been amply considered Id a previous volume of the Bdinburgh Cabinet Library, to which refto- eiica is made for a minute relation of the discoveries of the Cabots. —Historical View of Ihe Progress of Discovery on the more Northern Coasts of America, chap, i., and Appttidix. Family Library, No. Llll. 36 DISCOVERY OF THE SOUTH SEA. 1' f , if J it tleman, under the sanction of King Emanuel, pursued the track of the Cabots with the same views. Sailing along the east coast of Newfoundland, he reached the northern extrem* ity of that island, and entered the mouth of the St. Lawrence, which, with no small show of probability, he concluded to be the opening into the west that he was seeking. He proceed- ed also along the coast of Labrador, and appears to have ad- vanced nearly as far as to Hudson's Bay. While England and Portugal were thus examining the coasts of the New World, Spam, which had first opened the path, pursued it with unabated zeal and activity. The pe- culiar circumstances of that country afforded much encour- agement to the spirit of adventure. The long war she had wa^ed with the Moors, and the high and romantic feelings which animated that contest, fostered a strong desire of ex- citement, and an ardent love of enterprise, which found in the regioAs discovered by Columbus an ample and inexhaustible field. *' Chivalry left the land and launched upon the deep ; the Spanish cavalier embarked in the caravel of the discov- erer." Year after year her ports poured forth fresh expedi- tions, while national enthusiasm was almost daily excited by rumours of new countries far richer and more fertile than any previously known. The details of these navigations, how- ever, more properly belong to another work ; and it will be sufficient in this place briefly to allude to their chief results. In 1600, Rodrigo de Bastides explored the northern coast of Tierra Firma, from the Gulf of Darien to Cape de Vela, from about the 73d to the 79th degree of west longitude. In the same year, Vicente Yanez Pinzon doubled Cape San Augustine, discovered the Maragnon or River of Amazons, and sailed northward along thf. coast to the Island of Trinidad. The same active voyager engaged in several other expedi- tions ; and in one of these, ^m which he was accompanied by Diaz de Solis, made known to Europeans the province of Yucatan. Almost contemporaneously with the mrst voy- age of Pinzon, his townsman, Diego Lepe, pursuing nearly the same path, added largely to the knowledge of the coasts of Brazil. In 1512, Juan Ponce de Leon set sail in quest of the fabled island of Bimini, where flowed the miraculous Fountain of Youth, whose waters were of such wonderful power that whosoever bathed in them was restored to the ^igourof early manhood. Though this fairy region was |i !A. DISCOVERY OF THE SOUTH SEA. 27 pursued the ng along the hem extrem- It. Lawrencey eluded to be He proceed- to have ad- ^amining the It opened the y. The pe- luch encour- war she had intic feelings lesire of ex- found in the inexhaustible an the deep ; f the discov- fresh expedi- y excited by ile than any itions, how- id it will be ihief results, rthem coast pe de Vela, longitude. Cape San Amazons, )f Trinidad, ler expedi- ccompanied le province e iurst voy- ling nearly ' the coasts lil in quest miraculous wonderful 'estored to region was in vain sought for, the important discovery of the blooming coast of Florida was achieved. In the succeeding year, 1513, the Spaniards at length reached that ocean of which they had heard many vague ru- mours from the natives of Tierra Firraa. The honour of this discovery is due to Vasco Nunez de Balboa, a man sprung from a decayed family, who, first appearing in the New World as a mere soldier of fortune, of dissolute habits and of desper- ate hopes, had by courage and intrigue raised himself to the fovemment of a small colony established at Santa Maria in >arien. In one of his forays against the native inhabitants, when in this command, he procured a large quantity of gold. While he was dividing the treasure among his followers, much disputing took place in the presence of a young cacique, who, disdaining brawls for what seemed to him so mean an object, struck the scales with his hand and scattered the gold on the ground, exclaiming, " Why should you quarrel mr such a trifle 1 If this gold is indeed so precious in your eyes, that for it you forsake your homes, invade the peace- ful land of strangers, and expose yourselves to such suffer- ings and perils, I will tell you of a province where you may gratify your wishes to the utmost. Behold those lofty moun- tains !" he said, pointing to the south ; ** beyond these lies a mighty sea, which may be discerned from their summit. It is navigated by people who have vessels not much less than yours, and furnished like them with sails and oars. All the streams which flow down the southern side of those moun- tains into that sea abound in gold ; and the kings who reign upon its borders eat and drink out of golden vessels. Gold is as plentiful and common among these people of the south as iron is among your Spaniards." From the moment in which he heard this intelligence, the mind of Vasco Nunez became occupied with this one object, and he steadfastly devoted all his thoughts and actions to the discovery of the southern sea indicated by this chief. Many difficulties, however, retarded the undertaking, and it was not till the 1st of September, 1513, that he set forth, accompanied by no more than a hundred and ninety soldiers. After incredible toil in marching through hostile tribes, he at length approached the base of the last ridge he had to climb, and rested there foic the night. On the 26th of September, with the first gUmmering of light, he commenced the ascent, and bv ten o'clock had reached the :t \\ 28 DISCOVERY OF THE SOUTH SEA. brow of the mountain, from the summit of which he was as* sured he v/ould see the promised ocean. Here Vasco Nunez made his followers halt, and mounted alone to the bare hill- top. What must have been his emotions when he reached the summit ! Below him extended forests, green fields, and winding rivers, and beyond he beheld the South Sea, illumi- nated by the morning sun. At this glorious sight he fell on his knees, and extending his arms towards the ocean, and weeping for joy, returned thanks to Heaven for being the first European who had been permitted to behold these long- sought waters. He then made signs to his companions to ascend, and when they obtained a view of the magnificent scene, a priest who was among them began to chant the an- them " Te deum laudamus," all the rest kneeling and join* ing in the solemn strain. This burst of pious enthusiasm is strangely contrastetl with the feelings of avarice to which, even in the moment of exultation, their leader surrendered his mind, when he congratulated them on the prospect " of becoming, by the favour of Christ, the richest Spaniards that ever came to the Indies," After this he caused a tall tree to be felled, and formed into a cross, which was erected on th^ spot whence he first beheld the western deep. He then be* gan to descend from the mountains lo the shores of the new- found ocean ; and on the 29th of September reached a vast bay, named by him San Miguel, from the festival on which it was discovered. UnfurUng a banner, whereon was painted » figure of the Virgin with the arms of Castile at her feet, he marched with his drawn sword in his hand and his buckler on his shoulder knee-deep into the rushing tide, and, in a \o\xd voice, took possession of the seas and all the shores it washed. He concluded the ceremony by cutting with his dagger a cross on a tree that grew in the water ; and his followers, dispersing themselves in the forest, expressed their devotion by carving similar marks with their weapons. VascQ Nunez then be? took himself to pillage. He exacted from the natives con? tributions in gold and provisions ; and being told of a coun? try to the south where the people possessed abundance of gold, and used beasts of burden, the rude figure of the lam^ traced on the beach suggested to him the camel, and con- firmed him in the opinion that he had reached *' the gates of |;he East Indies." From the circumstance of the ocean hav- ing been first descried from the Isthmus of Darien, which M DISCOVERY OF THE SOUTH SEA. 29 zh he was as* /asco Nunez the bare hill- i he reached m fields, and 1 Sea, iUumi* ht he fell on i ocean, and )eing the first these long- mpanions to magnificent :hant the an- ng and join- nthusiasm is ce to which, surrendered •rospect " of paniards that a tall tree to ected on tho He then be* of the new- iched a vast on which was painted her feet, he ickler on his loud voice, ashed. He »r a cross on dispersing by carving z then be? tatives con? of a coun? indance of >f the lam^ and con- le gates of ocean hay- ien, which runs nearly east and west, it received the name of the South Sea — a title which, however accurately applied to the part first seen, is employed with little propriety to designate the whole vast expanse of the Pacific. Tidings of this great discov- ery were immediately transmitted to Spain, and received with delight and triumph. But instead of rewarding so impor- tant a service, the court despatched a governor to supersede' Balboa, who, by the perfidy of his successor, was publicly executed in 1517.* Meantime the colony on the Darien continued to ex- tend their knowledge of the western ocean, to make ex- cursions in barks, and to form small settlements in the vi- cinity. Larger vessels were soon constructed ; and violently taking possession of some small islands in the Gulf of San Miguel, which they named the Pearl Islands, the Spaniards extorted from their conquered subjects a large annutu tribute drawn from the. treasures of the deep. As the hope decayed of finding a passage to India through a strait in the American continent, the design was formed of esiablishing a regular intercourse by the Isthmus of Darien ; and a settlement was accordingly fixed at Panama, whence vessels were to visit the eastern shores of Asia. This scheme, however, failed of success. Within a month after the ships destined for the voyage had been launched, their planks were so destroyed by worms as to render them quite useless. No better success had followed an attempt which was made in 1515 to find an opening into the Austral Ocean, in more southern latitudes. The commander of the expedi- tion, Juan Diaz de Solis, in exploring the country at the mouth of the Rio de la Plata, fell into an ambuscade and lost his life. Upon this disaster the undertaking was aban- doned, and the vessels returned to Spain. Such was the knowledge obtained of the South Sea prior to the year 1519. Its waters had indeed been discovered, and the highest hopes formed of its treasures as well as of the rich lands washed by its billows. But all attempts to explore its vast expanse had failed ; and the seamen who boldly crossed the broad Atlantic were content to creep cautiously along * The extraordinary career of Vasco Nunez de Balboa has of late been invested with a new interest by the elegant memoir of Don Manuel Joaef Quintana— an Engliati translation of which, by Mrs. Hodson, appeared At Edinburgh in 183*2. C2 30 CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF MAGELLAN. if the gulfs and creeks of this newly-reached ocean. No strait had yet been found to connect its waves with those of seas already known and navigated ; it seemed to be hemmed in by inaccessible barriers ; and the great continent of America, which had been regarded as a main object of discovery, was now in some degree considered as an obstacle in the path to further enterprise. CHAPTER II. Circumnavigation of Magellan. Magellvin's Birth and Servicies.— Proposals to the Spanish Court accepted. — ^''ils 00 bi« Voyaj{e.— AnchofH at Port San Julian —TrMnsactions thcitj.- Uescripliou oCtbe Natives.— Discovers the Strait.— Enters the South Sea.— The Unfortunate Islands.— The J^adrones — Ttie Island or Managua or Limasaya.— Zebu.— Intercourse with lite Natives.— Death of Magellan.— ilis Character.- fleet proceeds to Borneo.- Ar- rives at Tidore.— The Ship Vitoria reaches Spain.— Fate or the Trint idad.— BesjUits of the Expedition, The glory of discovering a path to the South Sea, and of overpoming the difficulties which had hitherto impeded the navigation of its waters, is due to Fernando de Magalhanes, Magalhaens, or, as it has been more commonly written in this country, Magellan.* He was by birth a Portuguese, and sprung from a noble family. He had served in India with much nonour under the standard of the famous Albuquerque, and had there made considerable acquirements in practical seamanship. To these were added no mean scientific attain- ments, and much inform,i^tionj derived from a correspondence * In Hawkesworth's account of the flrst VAyags of Captain Cook (Hawkes. Coll., vol. ii., p. 41, London, )773) appears the following note : — " The celebrated navigator who discovered this stneight was a native of Portugal, and his name, in the language of his country, was Fer- natido de Magalhaens; the Spaniards call bim Hernfuif^ ji,agalkanes, and the French Magellan, which is the orthography that has been gen- erally adopted : a gentleman, tine filth in descent frvm this great adven- turer, is now living in or near London, and communicated the true name of bis ancestor to Mr. [Sir Joseph] Banks, with a reauesl that it might b« inserted in this work." CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF MAGELLAN. 31 iivith some of the first geographers and most successful navi- gators of those days. The grounds on which he projected his great undertaking have not been accurately recorded. It has been supposed he was struck with the circumstance that the South American continent trends still more to the w^est* ward in proportion as the higher latitudes are attained ; that he concluded from this, that in shape it was probably similar to Africa ; and that its southern extremity must be washed by an open sea, through which there would necessarily be an entrance into the ocean beyond. There have not been want- ing persons, however, to ascribe the honour of this discovery to Martin Behem^— a distinguished geographer of that age, to whom also has been given the merit of having anticipated Columbus in finding the New World. But the pretensions set forth in behalf of this individual have been traced to an error in attributing to him the construction of a globe made many years after his death, which took place in 1506.* This date is fatal to' his claim, as at that time the South Sea itself was not discovered. It must be remembered, likewise, that for many years afterward, the best mariners of Spain searched unsuccessfully for the strait in question, which they could hardly have missed, if, as is alleged, it had been laid down in the charts of Behem. Magellan first made an offer of his service to his own sove- reign, who, says Fray Gaspar,t *' did not choose to hear it, nor to give it any confidence, but dismissed him with a frown and sin- gular disgrace, very different from what was due to the proposal * Irving*8 Columbus. Appendix, No. xii., vol. iv., p. 205-212. See alBO Burney's Discovery in the South Sea. i., 45-48. t Conquest or the Philippine Islandn. The principal authorities for the voyage of Magellan are Herrera, Barros, and Pigafetia. This la^t au- thor, a native or Vicenza in Italy, accompanied the expedition. From an Imperfect copy or his narrative, an account was compiled by Purchas, vol. i., book i., chap. ii. The first perrecl edition was published Trom a manuscript in the Ambrosian library, by C. Amoretti : — *' Primo Viaggio intorno al globo terracqueo. Milano, IHOO." This has since been trans- lated mto the French and Bnglish languages. In the *' Historical Col- lection or th :• several Voyages and Discoveries in the r^nulh Pacific Ocean, by Alexunder Dalryinple," London, 1769, will be found transla- tions of Herre/a, Barros, and Ga:)par, arranged in a manner that much facilitates a comparison between their varying statements. It is to be regretted that Dalrymple ha< only ireateil of the voyage of Magellan down to his entry into the Pac flc. Burney has diligently examined all >.He authorities with his usual acumen and perseverance, and ha* wov»o tbe whole intp a comprehensive and discriniipating narrative, M CIKCVHNAVIOATION OF MAGELLAN. ^i tf of Magalhanes, and the reputation he had acquired for his val« our." Thus did Portugal, after having rejected the greatest honour in the career of discovery — the finding of America-— fpum away the second — the glory of the first circumnaviga- tion of the globe. Magellan, accompanied by Ruy Falero, a tiative astrologer who was associated with him in the enter- prise, then determined to go to the Spanish court and tender the fame and profit of his undertaking to the Emperor Charles V. He arrived at Valladolid, where his majesty then was, about 1517, and his proposals were Ustened to with attention and respect. We are told by Henera that he brought with him a globe fairly painted, on which he had described the lands and seas, and the track he meant to pursue, but carefully left the strait blank, that they might not anticipate his design. This precaution (if the tale is to be credited) was a bitter satire on the little faith to be reposed in the honour of princes, but it was nat used without good reason ; for Magellan had before him the example of John II. of Portugal, who, having gathered from Columbus the theory of his great project, with singular meanness, secretly despatched a vessel to make the attempt, and rob the discoverer of his honours. The emperor, on considering the proposals of Magellan, was so much gratified as to con^r on him several distinctions. Articles of agreement were drawn out to the following effect : —The navigator, and his countryman, Ruy Falero, agreed to reach the Moluccas by sailing to the west ; it was stipulated that they were to enjoy a ten years* monopoly of the track which they explored, and to receive a twentieth part of all the revenue and profits, which, after deducting the expenses, should accrue from their discoveries. He was also to enjoy the title of Adelantado over the seas and lands he should happen to make known. Certain privileges of merchandise were conceded to him and his associate, including a fifth part of all that the ships should bring home in the first voyage : the emperor agreed to furnish for the expedition five vessels, two of 130 tons, two of ninety, and one of sixty ; and this fleet was to be victualled for two years, and provided with 234 men. These articles were concluded in Saragossa, and Magellan then repaired to Seville, where, in the church of Santa Maria de la Vitoria de Triana, the royal standard of Spain was for- mally delivered to him ; and he took a solemn oath that he CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF MAGELLAN. 33 would perform the voyage with all faithfulness as a good vas" sal of the emperor. His squadron was composed of the Trin- idad, the San Antonio, the Vitoria, the Concepcion, and the Santiago ; but the period of sailing was retarded by the inter- ference of the Portuguese king, who threw every obstacle in the way of the enterprise which he himself had not cither the spirit or the generosity to encourage. He even endeavoured to entice Magellan from the Spanish service by promises of more advantageous terms. Failing in this, he is supposed to have countenanced various reports which were circulated against the fame of the adventurer ; while others among his countrymen predicted, that *Uhe King of Spain would lose the expenses, for Fernando Magalhanes was a chattering fel- low, and little reliance to be placed in him, and that he would not execute what he promised,"* At length this renowned leader sailed from San Lucar on the 20th, or, accuording to some accounts, on the 21st of Sep- tember, 1619. His fu-st destination was the Canary Islands, where he stopped to take in wood and water ; and on the 13th December following he came to anchor in a port, which was named Santa Lucia, in 23^ degrees of south latitude, and on the coast of Brazil. This has sometimes been supposed the Rio de Janeiro of the Portuguese ; but modem observation does not confirm the opinion. The natives appeared a confiding, credulous, good-hearted race, and readily gave provisions m exchange for trifling wares ; half a dozen fowls w^ere obtained for a king of spades, and the bargain was considered to be equally good by both parties. Pigafetta says, " They were very long lived, generally reaching 105, and sometimes 140 years of age." Weighing anchor on the 27th, the squadrpn sailed south- ward, and, on thp 11th January, 1520, reached Cape Santa Maria on the Rio de la Plata, where they took in supplies. Near this place Juan Diaz de Solis about five years before had been murdered by the natives, on which account they kept at a distance from their visiters. Putting again to sea, and touching at different places, the fleet, on Easter Eve, came to anchor in a port which was named San Julian; and ther^ Magellan remained five months. Discontent, and at last open mutiny, broke out in his ships, the ringleaders being qert^ * ^errera, dec. ii., lib. iv., chap, x, 84 CIRCUMNAVIOATION OF MAGELLAN. I • 'I Spanish officers, who felt mortified at serving under a Portu- guese commander. The first step taken to restore order, However much it might accord with the character of that rude age, cannot be reconciled with our notions of honourable con- duct : a person was despatched with a letter to one of the captains, with orders to stab him while he was engaged in reading it. This commission being unscrupulously executed, and foUowed up by measures equally prompt in regard to the other mutineers, the authority of the captain-generu was soon fully re-established. While the fleet hy in this harbour, the Santiago, one of the ships, made an exploratory cruise ; and on the 3d of May, the anniversary of the finding of the Holy Cross, discovered the river named Santa Cruz. Having advanced about three leagues farther to the south, the vessel was wrecked, though the prew, after suffering very great hardships, ultimately re- joined the squadron. The long period which they passed on that coast enabled the Spaniards to form an intimate acquaint- ance with the natives. They had at first concluded tluit the country was uninhabited ; but one day an Indian, well made and of gigantic size, came capering and singing to the heaoh^ throwing dust upon his head in token of amity. A seaua/i was forthwith sent on shore, and directed to imitate the ges- tures of this merry savage, who was of such immense stature, says Pigafetta, that a middle-sized Castilian only reached to his waist. He was large in proportion, and altogether a for- midable apparition ; his broad face being stained red, save a yellow circle about his eyes, and two heart-shaped spots on his cheeks. His hair was covered with a white pow- der. His clothing, formed of the skin of the guanaco,* cov- ered his body from head to foot, being wrapped round the arms and legs, and sewed together all in one piece, like the dress of the ancient Irish. Shoes fabricated of the hide of the same animal, which made the feet appear round and large, procured for his whole tribe the name of Pata-gones, or clumsy^ hoofed. The arms of this individual were a stout bow and ar- rows, the former strung with gut, the latter tipped with flint- stones sharpened. He ascended the ship of the captain-gen- t The ecmehu huanaetu of Linnseus, a species of lama. Tbis ani- mal, described by Pigafetta as having the body of a camel, the legs of a stag, the tail of a horse, and the head and ears of a mule, excited great amaxement among the Spanish seamen. CIRCUMNATIOATION OF MAGELLAN. 35 eral, where he appeared quite at his ease, ate, drank, and made merry, till, seeins his own image in a large steel minor, he started back in alarm, and threw down four Spaniards. The good reception of this giant brought more to the beach, who were taken on board and feasted, six of them eating as much as would have satisfied twenty seamen. The first Indian had pointed to the sky, as if to inquire whether the Europeans had descended thence ; and they all wondered that the ships should be so large and the men so small. They were in gen- eral dressed and armed alike. They had short hair, and car- ried their arrows stuck in a fillet bound round their heads. They ran with amazing swiftness, and devoured their meat raw as soon as it was obtained. These savages practised bleeding by rudely cupping the part affected, and produced vomiting by thrusting an arrow pretty far down the throat of the patient. Magellan wished to carry home some of this sin- gular race ; and European craft was basely opposed to Indian confidence and credulity. Fixing on two of the youngest and most handsome, he presented to them knives, glass beads, and mirrors, till their hands were filled ; then rings of iron were offered ; and as they were eager to possess them, but could not take hold of any more articles, the fetters were put upon their legs, as if to enable them the more conveniently to carry these ornaments away. On discovering the treachery, they vainly struggled for freedom, and shrieked to their god Sete- bos.* Besides these prisoners, the captain-general was de- sirous of securing two females, that the breed of giants might be introduced into Europe; but though the women, whose stature was not so remarkable, were far from beautiful, their husbands betrayed considerable symptoms of jealousy ; and, * ** They say,*' writes Pigafetta, " that when any of them die, there appeare ten or twelve devills leaping and dancing about the bodie or the dead, and seeme to have their bodies painted with divers colours, and that among others there is one seene bigger than the residue, who maketh great mirth and rejoicing. This great devill they call Setebos, and call the lesse Cheleule."— Purchas, vol. i., p. 35. It has been supposed that fVom this passage Shakspeare borrowed the demon Setebos, introduced in the Tempest, act i., scene ii. ; *' I must obey ; his art is of such power, It would control my dam's god, Setebos, And make a vassal of him." ' There are other passages in the play of which the bint may have been taken firom the narrative of Pigafetta. 36 CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF MAGELLAN^ as they were more seldom seen, an opportunity of entrapping them could not be found. It was therefore resolved to seize other two men, in the hope of effecting an exchange. Force, however, was not so successful as stratagem, and it was with difficulty that nine of the strongest Spaniards threw them down. One of the savages broke loose even in spite of every effort to detain him ; and in the end the plan failed, for the other made his escape, and Magellan lost one of his own men, who was shot with a poisoned arrow in the pursuit. His com- panions, who fired on the runaways, " were unable," says Pi- gafetta, " to hit any, on account of their not escaping in a straight line, but leaping from one side to another, and getting On as swiftly as horses at a full gallop." On the 21st August the fleet left Port San Julian, after taking possession of the country for the King of Spain by the customary ceremonial of erecting a cross — the symbol of sal- vation, so often degraded into an ensign of rapacity and cruelty in the fairest portions of the New World. Two months were afterward passed at Santa Cruz, where the squadron was well supplied with wood and water; and, on the 18th October, standing southward, they discovered Cape de las Virgines, and shortly afterward the desired strait. After careful examination of the entrance, a council was held, at which the pilot, Estevan Gomez, voted for returning to Spain to refit ; while the more resolute spirits recommended that they should proceed and complete their discovery.* Magellan heard all in silence, and then firmly declared, that were he, instead of the slighter hardships already suffered, reduced to eat the hides on the ship's yards, his determination was to make good his promise to the emperor. On pain of death, every one was forbidden to speak of the shortness of provisions or of home — which, though a somewhat unsatisfactory mode of stifling the pangs of hunger or the longings ot affection, equally well answered the purpose of the captam-general. Pigafetta makes no men- * Gomez was by birth a Portuguese ; and it has been alieeed, that the insidious advice which he gave on this occasion, and his mutiny and de- sertion at a later pe- iod, were dictated by a desire to promoie the interests of Portugal.— See Memoir or Sebastian Cabot, p. 136. Ai.oihet' motive for the trearhery or Gomez has been assign* d by PIgaretia, viz., tliat he bad previously engaged himseirin the Spanish service, and had been ap- pointed to, or promised the command of, a small squadron, to sail on a projected enterprise, which was laid aside on the arrival of Magellan ii Spain. CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF MAGELLAN. 37 of entrapping olved to sei^e mgo. Force, id it was with I threw them spite of every failed, for the his own men, lit. His coni- ble," says Pi- escaping in a ir, and getting 1 Julian, after f Spain by the symbol of sal- ity and cruelty ) months were idron was well 18th October, I Virgines, and il examination pilot, Estevan vhile the more proceed and in silence, and the slighter hides on the d his promise ivas forbidden lome — which, ing the pangs veil answered lakes no men- ilieeed, that the mutiny and de- oie the interests ^i.oihet' motive tta. viz., that he nd had been ap- on, to sail on « of Magellan ii lion of the council ; but says the wh' )Ie crew were persuaded that the strait had no western outltM, and would not have ex- plored it but for the firmness of Magellan. Two vessels were sent to examine the opening, and a hur- ricane coming on drove them violently thirty-six hours, durinff which they were in momentary alarm lest they should be forced ashore. The coasts more than once seemed to approach each other, on which the voyagers gave themselves up for lost ; but new channels successively opened, into which they gladly en- tered. In this manner they were led on till they had pene- trated the First and Second Gut, when the gale having abated, they thought it most prudent to retrace their course, and report what they had observed to the commander. Two days had already passed, and the captain-general was not without fear that his consorts must have been cast away in the tempest ; while smoke being observed on shore, it was concluded to be a signal made by those who had had the good fortune to es- cape. Just at this instant, however, the ships were seen re- turning under full sail, with flags flying ; as they came nearer, the crows fired their bombards and uttered shouts of joy. These salutations were repeated by their anxious companions ; and, on learning the result of the search, the whole squadron advanced, having named the land where the smoke was seen Tierra del Fuego. On reaching the expanse into which the Second Gut opens, an inlet to the southeast was observed, and two vessels were despatched to explore it, while the others steered to the southwest. Estevan Gomez was pilot in one of the ships sent on the former service ; and, knowing that Magellan no longer lay between him and the open sea, he incited the crew to mutiny, threw the captain into chains, and under the darkness of night put about the helm and shaped his course homeward. This recreant had on board with him one of the giants, whom he calculated upon being the first to present at the court of Spain ; but the poor prisoner pined under the heat of the tropical regions, and died on approaching the line. In the mean time, the commander of the expedition pursued the channel to the southwest, and anchored at the mouth of a river, where he resolved to wait the arrival of the other vessels ; he ordered a boat, however, to proceed and reconnoitre, and on the third day the sailors returned with the intelligence that they had seen the end of the strait, and the ocean beyond it. " We wept for joy," says Pigafetta, " and D 38 CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF MAGELLAN. tho cape was denominated II Capo Deseado, for in truth we had long wished to see it." Public thanksgiving was also made ; and after spending several days in a vain search for the deserter, and erecting several standards in conspicuous situations, the three remaining ships stood towards the western mouth of the strait, which they reached thirty-seven days after discovering Cape de las Virgines. Magellan entitled this long-sought passage the Strait of the Patagonians — a name which has been justly superseded by that of the discov- erer. He found it to be so deep, that anchorage could only be obtained by approaching near to the shore ; and estimated the length of it at 1 10 leases. Pigafetta relates, that during the voyage he " talked with the Patagonian giant" on board of the captain-general's ship, and obtained some words of his native language, so as to form a small vocabulary, which, as far as subsequent inquiries afford the means of judging, is sub- Btantklly correct. It was the 28th of November when the small squadron gained the open sea, and held a northerly course, in order to reach a milder climate (the crews having already suffered se- verely from extreme cold), as well as to escape the storms usually encountered about the western opening of the strait.. On the 24th January, 1621, they discovered an island, which was named San Pablo in memory of the Patagonian, who had died, after being baptized, it is alleged, at his own request ; and on the 4th February another small island was seen, ithd called Tiburones, or Sharks' Island, The crews had now suffered so much from the want of provisions and fresh water, and from the ravages of the scurvy,* that, depressed by their r!ondition and prospects, they named these discoveries Las Desventuradas, or the Unfortunate Islands. Their sufferings, for three months and twenty days after entering the Pacific, t. * As Pigafetta describes the effects of this disease without naming it, it is obvious that to its severity was then added the terror of a new and strange visitation. " Oar greatest misfbrtune," he says, *' was being at- tacked by a malady in which the gums swelled so as to hide the teeth as well in the upper as the lower jaw, whence those affected thus were in- capable of chewing their food. Besides those who died, we had llrom twenty-five to thirty sailors ill, who suffered dreadlbl pains in their arms, legs, and other parts «' the body." Some years later, when the crews of Cartier were seized by the same disorder, it appeared to them also equally novel and loathsome.— See Historical View of the Progress of Discovery oa th* more Ntrthtm Coasts of America, [No. LIII. of the Family Li- brwy.] CAN. CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF MAGELLAN. 39 r in truth we iiig was also lin search for conspicuous Is the western y-seven days ellan entitled itagonians — a >f the discov- we could only and estimated }s, that during mt" on board ! words of his ary, which, as idging, is sub- nail squadron e, in order to ly suffered se- )e the storms |of the strait., island, which nian, who had own request ; tvas seen, Aid ws had now d fresh water, ssed by their icoveries Las }ir sufferings, the Pacific, bout naming it. of a new and " was being at- ide the teeth u 1 thus were in< we had lYom 8 in their amns, en the crews of enn also equally of Discovery the Family Li* were painful in the extreme. Nineteen died of scurvy ; and the situation of the remainder, reduced to chew the leather found about the ship, and to drink putrid water, was in the highest degree deplorable. Even sawdust was eaten, and mice were in such request as to sell for half a duoat a piece. Their only solace was a continuance of delightful weather, and of fair winds which carried them smoothly onward. To this circumstance the So"th, Sea owes its name of Pacific — a title which many succeeding seamen have thought it ill de- serves. On the 6th of March were discovered three beautiful and apparently fertile islands, inhabited, and therefore likely to afford succour to the fleet. The Indians immediately came off in their canoes, bringing cocoanuts, yams, and rice. Their complexion was olive brown, and their form handsome ; they stained the teeth black and red, and some of them wore long beards, with the hair of their heads hanging down to the girdle. On these poor islanders, whose pilfering propensities obtained for this group the appellation of the Ladrones (or Thieves) the captain-general took signal vengeance for a small offence. A skiff was stolen from the stern of the cap- itana, or admiral's ship, upon which Magellan landed with ninety men, plundered their provisions, and burnt fifty or sixty of their houses,* which were built of wood, having a roof of boards covered with leaves about four feet in length, * P. le Gobien, In his History of the Ladrone or Marian Islands, ha* asserted, that at the time wlien Magellan arrived, the natives were alto- gether ignorant of fire, and that, when for the first time they saw it con- suming their houses, they regarded it an an animal which attached itself to the wood, and fed upon it. This tale has been adopted by the Abbd Raynal, in his History of the East and West Indies, and has served him as a topic for ample declamation ; and the Abb^ Provost, in his " Histoireg^n- 6rale des Voyages," has also given it credit, quoting as his authority the narrative of Pigafbtta. As, however, was very early remarked by the President de Broases, in his " Histoire des Navigations aux Terres Aua- trales," Pigafeita, credulous and fabulous as he is, has made no mention of this circumstance. This alone might be held sufllcient to disprove the unsupported assertion of Le Gobien. But, as Malte Brun has ob- served (English Translat., vol. iii., p. 618), *' these ialanda an filled with volcanoes,^— ti. circumstance of which Raynal was not aware, as he ac- counts for this 8uppi>sed ignorance of fire, by assumhig the Act that here there are " none of those terrible volcanoes, the destructive traces of which are indelibly mariced on the fkce of the globe." Nor is this all ; a later French navigator remarlcs, " Les insulaires cbes qui on assure que ie feu ^toit inconnu, avoient dans leurs langues les mols/eu. bnder, ckarbon, braisc,four, griller, bouillir, &c., et/abriquoient,avant I'arrivie de* Ewropiena dant leurs iles, des poteries ividetnment soumises d Too* ). 1 I i I 40 CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF MAGELLAN. probably those of the bananier (musa pisang). He also killed some of the natives, to whom the arrow was an unknown weapon, and who, when pierced by the shafts of the Spaniards, excited pity by vain attempts to extract them. They had lances tipped with fish-bone ; and when the invaders retreated, they followed with about 100 canoes, variously painted, black, white, or red, and showed fish, as if disposed to renew their traffic ; but on getting near they pelted the people in the ships with stones, and then took to flight. The boats of these savages resembled gondolas, and were furnished with a sail of pidm-leaves, which was hoisted at the one side, while, to balance it, a beam or outrigger was fastened to the other. Vessels of the same construction were afterward observed in the South Sea by Anson and Cook, who very much admired the ingenuity of the contrivance. From the 16th to the 18th of M^ch other islands were discovered, forming the group then called the Archipelago of St. Lazarus, but now known as part of the Philippines. The inhabitants were found to be a friendly and comparatively-civiUzed people. They wore ornaments of gold ; and, though otherwise nearly naked, dis- played cotton head-dresses embroidered with silk. They were tattooed, and had their bodies perfumed with aromatic oils. They cultivated the land, and formed stores of spices ; they used harpoons and nets in fishing ; and had cutlasses, clubs, lances, and bucklers, some of them ornamented with gold. On the 25th, the fleet left Humunu, the principal member of the group, and afterward touched at some others in the same archipelago. At a small island named Mazagua, and supposed to be the Limasava of modern charts, a slave on board, by name Enrique, and a native of Sumatra, was able to make himself understood by the savages. He accordingly acted as the interpreter of Magellan in explaining the reasons of this visit on the part of the Spaniards, and in unfolding the terms of commerce and friendly intercourse which they wished to establish with them. Mutual presents were made, and ceremonial visits exchanged ; the captain-general doing everything likely to impress the In- dian lung with the power and superiority of Europeans and tion du/ctt.*— Voyage autonrda Monde, execute but let Corvettes de 8. M. I'Uranie et la Physicienne pendant lea ann^es 1817-18-19 et 90. Par M. Louis de Freyeinet.— Historique, tome ii., p. 166. See also p. 328| CIRCtMNATIGATION OF MAGELLAN. 41 the dignity of the emperor his master. For this purpose ha caused a sailor to be clothed in complete armour, and directed three others to cut at him with swords and endeavour to stab him. On seeing the mailed man remain unharmed amid this shower of steel, the island prince was greatly surprised, and remarked, that a warrior so protected would be able to con- tend with a hundred. " Yes," replied the interpreter, in the name of the captain, " and each of the three vessels has 200 men armed in the same manner." With this chief Magellan formed a close friendship ; and two Spaniards being invited on shore to inspect the curiosities of the country, the chronicler of the voyage was sent as one of them. They partook of an entertainment with the Rajah Colambu, as he was called, and were served in vessels of porcelain. The king's manner of eating was to take alternately a mouthful of pork and a spoon- ful of wine, lifting his hands to heaven before he helped him- self, and suddenly extending his left fist towards his visitor in such a manner that, on his hrst performing the ceremony, Pig- afetta expected to receive a blow on the face. Seeing all the rest of the company go through the same gesticulations, the E elite Vicentine conformed to the customs of the place, and aving finished his repast, was otherwise very graciously treated, being introduced to the heir-appareii> , and left at night to repose on a comfortable matting of reeds, with pil- lows of leaves to support his head. Among the luxuries of Mazagua were candles made of gums, rolled up in the foliage of the palm-tree. The sovereign was a remarkably handsome man, of olive complexion, with long black hair ; his body el- egantly tattooed, and perfumed with storax and gum-benjamin. He was adorned with gold ear-rings, '' and on each of his teeth," says the narrator, " were three golden dots, so placed one would have thought his teeth had been fastened with this metal."* About his middle he wore a tunic of cotton cloth embroidered with silk, which descended to the knees ; around his head was wrapped a silken turban or veil ; while a dagger at his side, having a handle of gold and a scabbard of exquisitely-carved wood, completed uio costume ^f this * Peron mentions small spots of silver on the fore-teeth of some of the people of Timor, fixed to the enamel by a kind or mastic, so firmly that he could not picl( them off with bis nails ; and the men who wore them ate before him without seeming to feel any inconvenience flrom their wliimsical finery. D2 48 CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF MAGELLAN. barbaric rulor. It was observed that his subjects enlivened themselves by constantly chewing botol and areca, mixed with a jportion of lime. Thoy acknowledged one Supreme Ueinff, whom they called Abba, and wor8hipt>ed, by lifting their hands towards heaven. At tins time was Magellan first seized with the violent desire of making proselytes, in which he easily succeeded. On Easter Day a party landed to say mass, and all their ceremonies were exactly imitated by the natives. Some of the Snaniards ailorward received the communion ; which bein^ ended, " the captain," says Pigafetta, "* exhibited a dance with swords, with which the king and his brother seemed much delighted." A large cross garnished with nails and a crown of thorns was then erected on the top of a hill, and the Indians were told that, if duly adored, it would defend them from thunder, tempests, and all calamities. The men then formed into battalions, and, having astonished the sav- ages oy a discharge of musketry, returned to the ships. 8uch were the first missionary labours among these islands ! Gold was seen in some abundance ; but iron was obviously much more valued, as one of the natives preferred a knife to a doub- loon in exchange for some provisions. The commodities brought to the ships were hogs, goats, fowls, rice, millet, maize, cocoanuts, oranges, citrons, ginger, and bananas. At the request of the rajui, part of the Spanish crew went on shore to help him in gathering in his crop of rice ; but the poor prince, who had assisted on the previous day at mass and afterward at a banquet, had yielded so far to intemperance that all business was deferred till the morrow, when the seamen discharged this neighbourly office, and shortly afterward saw harvest-nome in Mazagua. On the 5th of April the fleet sailed, the king attending it in his pirogue. Being unable to keep up with the squadron, he and his retinue were taken on board ; and on the 7th of the same month they entered the harbour of Zebu, an island ren- dered memorable by the first settlement of the Spaniards in the Philippines. The accounts which the captain-general had re- ceived of the riches and power of the soverei|;n, made it a point of good policy to impress him and his subjects with the greatness of tneir visiters. The ships therefore entered the port, with their colours flying ; and a grand salute from all the cannon caused great consternation among the islanders, about 8000 of whom, armed with spears and shields, stood at the iH- ^^ - OmCUMNAVIOATION OP MAOSLLAN. 48 wptorside, gazing with astonishment at a sight so now to thinn. An ambassador, attondud by tho interpreter £nriquo, was sent on shore, charged with a message importing the high connidoration which " the greatest monarch on earth," and lus captain-goncral, Magellan, entertained for the King of Zebu. He also announced that the fleet had come to take in provis- ions, and give merchandise in exchange. The prince, who acted through his ministers, made the strangers welcome, tho\igh ho insisted on the payment of certain dues. These, howevor, were dispensed with, in consequence of the repre- sentations of a Moorinh merchant then in the island, who had heard of the Portuguese conquests in the East ; and in a few days, every requisite ceremony being observed, a treaty offen- sive and defensive was formed. In manners and in social condition this people did not appear to differ from the natives of Mazagua. Their religion, it is true, whatever it was, sat but lightly upon them ; for in a few days Magellan converted and baptized half their number. The rite was administered on shore, where a rude chapel was erected. Mass was performed, and every ceremony was observed which could deepen the im- pression of sanctity ; among which the firing of guns from the ships was not forgotten, liie royal family, the Rajah of Maza- gua, and many persons of rank, were the first converts ; the king receiving the name of Carlos, in honour of the emperor. Among these sudden Christians were also the queen and ladies of the court. Baptism was also administered to the eldest princess, daughter of his majesty and wife of his nephew the heir-appa- rent, a young and beautiful woman. She usually wore a robe of black and white cloth, and on her head a tiara of date-leaves. " Her mouth and nails," adds Pigafetta, " were of a very live- ly red." One day the queen came in state to hear mass. She was dressed in a garment like that of her daughter, with a silk veil striped with gold flung over her head and shoulders ; and three young girls walked before her, each carrying one of the royal hats. The attendants were numerous, wearing small veils and girdles, or short petticoats of palm-cloth. Her majesty bowed to the altar, and having seated herself on a cushion of embroidered silk, was, with the rest, sprinkled by the captain-general with rose-water, " a scent," says the wn- ter already quoted, '^ in which the women of this country much delight." A cure performed on the king's brother, who, after being i 44 eiRCUMNATIOATION OF MAGELLAN. .; baptized, recovered of a dangerous illness, completed Maeel- lan's triumph. Pigafetta ^avely relates, "we were all of us ocular witnesses of this nuracle." By way of help, however, to the supernatural agency, a restorative cordial was immedi- ii ately administered, and repeated during five days, until the sick man was able to go abroad. The fashionable religion of the court spread rapidly. The cross was set up, idols were broken, amid zealous shouts of " Viva la Castilla !" in honour of the Spanish monarch, and in less than fourteen days from the arrival of the squadron the whole inhabitants of Zebu and the neighbouring islands were baptized, save those of one infidel village, which the captain-general burnt in punish- ment of their obstinacy, and then erected a cross amid the ashes and ruins. Among other customs, the Zebuians drank their wine by suckin|[ it through a reed. At an entertainment given by the prince, the heir-apparent, four singing girls were introduced. One beat a drum, another the kettle-tkum, the third two smal- /er instruments of the same description, and the fourth struck cymbals against each other ; and as they kept excellent time, the effect was pleasing. The kettle-drums were of metal, and in form and tone somewhat like European bells. Other young women played on gongs ; and the islanders had a musical in- strument resembling the bagpipe, as well as a sort of violin with copper strings. Their nouses were raised on posts, and divided into chambers, the open space below serving as a shed for domestic animals and poultry. Provisions were plentiful, and the Indians everywhere showed hospitality to their visit- ers, constantly inviting them to eat and drink. They ap- peared, indeed, to place much of their enjoyment in the pleas- ures of the table, at which they often remained four or five hours. Magellan availed himself of'^the submissive and respectful demeanour of these people, and exacted from them and the chiefs of the neighbouring islands a tribute, which seems to have been willingly paid. The King of Matan alone refused to ac- knowledge this new sovereignty, and with much spirit replied to the demand, that as strangers he wished to show them all suitable courtesy, and had sent a present, but he owed no obe- dience to those he had never seen before, and would pay them none. This answer greatly incensed the captain-general, now above measure elated with the success which had attended CIRCUMNAVIOATION OF MAGELLAN. 45 lus late labours. He forthwith resolved to punish the refrac- tory chief, refusing to listen to the arguments of his officers, and particularly to those of Juan Serrano, who remonstrated with him on the impolicy of his design. Accordingly, on the S7th of April, being a Saturday, which Magellan always con- sidered his fortunate day, he landed with forty-nine of his peo- ple clothed in mail, and began an attack on about 1500 In- dians. The King of Zebu attended his ally with a force ; but his active services were declined, and his men remained in their boats. The battle between crossbows and musketry on the one side, and arrows and wooden lances on the other, raged many hours. The natives, brave from the onset, rose in courage when they became familiarized with the Spanish fire, which did comparatively little execution. A party of the latter was detached to bum a village, in the hope that the de- struction of their houses would overawe and induce them to dis- perse ; but the sight of the flames only exasperated them tho more, and some of them, hastening to the spot, fell upon their enemies and killed two. They soon learned to take aim at the legs of the assailants, which were not protected by mail ; and pressing closer and harder upon their ranks, threw them into disorder, and compelled them to give way on all sides. Only seven or eight men now remained with their leader, who, besides, was wounded in the limbs by a poisoned arrow. He was also repeatedly struck on the head with stones ; his helmet was twice dashed off; a lance tlirust between the bars wounded him in the temple ; and his sword-arm being dis- abled, he could no longer defend himself. The fight contin- ued till they were up to the knees m water ; and at last an Indian struck Magellan on the leg. He fell on his face, and as the islanders crowded about him was seen to turn several times towards his companions ; but they were unable either to rescue him or revenge his death, and made for the boats. " Thus," says Pigafetta, " perif hed our guide, our light, and our support !" Though the rash warfare waged vyrith the unoffending chief of Matan cannot be vindicated on any principle of justice, the premature and violent death, in the very middle of his career, of a navigator and discoverer second only to Columbus, will ever be a cause of regret. Magellan was eminently endowed with the qualities necessary to a man engaged in adventures like those in which he spent his life. He had a quick and 46 CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF MAGELLAN. J i ii 1\ ready mind, ever fertile in expedients, and never wanting in self-possession. He possessed the rare talent of command ; being no less beloved than respectejd by his crews, though Spanish pride and national jealousy made the officers some- times murmur against his authority. He was a skilful and experienced seaman ; prompt, resolute, and inflexible ; having a high sense of his own dignity, and maintained it with be- coming spirit. When, on one occasion, certain of the pilots temonstrated with him on the direction of his course, his only answer was, that their duty was to follow him, not to ask questions. In personal appearance, he was rather mean ; his stature was short, and he was lame from a wound which he had received in battle with the Moors. His former voyage to India, which he extended to Malacca, and the successful one he had just made, entitle him to be named the first circumnav- igator of the globe. The unfortunate circumstances which led him to abandon his native country, in order to serve her foe and rival, long rendered his memory odious in Portugal. The only land, indeed, in which his fame was not acknowl- edged was the country which gave him birth. " The Portu- gall authors," says Purchas, " speake of him nothing but trea- son, and cry out upon him as a traitor for sowing seeds likely to produce warre 'twixt Castile and Portugall : Nor doe I in those thinffes undertake to justifie him. But out of his what- soever evill, God produced this good to the world, that it was first by his meanes sayled round : Nor was his neglect of his countrey neglected, or revengefuU mind unrevenged, as the sequele manifested by his untimely and violent death.** It is impossible to condemn Magellan for carrying his rejected services to the Spanish court ; though the necessity of such a step must for ever be deplored, both for his own and for his country's sake.* * A generous feeling has hurried many writers into censures on the King of Portugal, the justice of which may perhaps be doubted. It must be recollected, that the proposal of Magellan to Emanuel went no further than to undertake the doubtftil search of e dangerous passage to the Moluccas ; and iiaX the Portuguese already enjoyed the monopoly of a safe and shorter route than that which he eventually explored. His ma- jesty must also have been aware that the discovery of a western passage to the Spice Islands wis likely to cive Spain an opportunity of asserting a right to those valuable possessions, under the treaty of Tordesillssi These power All reasons of* state policy, in an age when self interest only was consulted in undertakings of discovery, ought surely to have been allowed some wdght in Avoar of the Fwtugttese court, and, at any CIRCUMNAVIGATION OP MAGELLAN. 4Y Eight Spaniards fell with their leader, and twenty-two were wounded. During the heat of the engagement the King of Zebu sat in his balanghay, gazing on the combat, which had doubtless produced a considerable change in his notions as to the prowess of his new allies ; but towards its close he ren- dered some assistance which facilitated their re-embarcation. Though tempting offers were made to the people of Matan to give up the body of the captain-general, they would not part with so proud a trophy of victory. The result of this fatal battle put an end to the friendship of the new Christian king. He wished to make his peace with the offended sov- ereign of Matan, and by means of the treacherous slave En- rique, who, on the death of Magellan his master, refused, until compelled by threats, to continue his services as inter- preter, formed a'plan for seizing the ships, arms, and mer- chandise. The officers were invited on shore to a banquet, where they expected to receive, previous to their departure, a rich present of jewels, prepared before the death of Magel- lan for his most Catholic Majesty. A party landed accord- ingly to the number of twenty-four ; but from certain ap- pearances which met their eyes, Juan Carvallo the pilot, and another Spaniard, suspected treachery, and returned to the ships. They had scarcely reached them, when the shrieks of the victims were heard. The anchors being instantly raised, the vessels were laid close to the shore and fired several shots upon the town. At this time Captain Juan Serrano was seen dragged to the edge of the water, wounded, and tied hand and foot. He earnestly entreated his countrymen to desist from firing, and to ransom him from this cruel and treacherous people. They turned a deaf ear to his prayers ; and he was thus left at the mercy of the islanders. Pigafetta relates that, " finding all his entreaties were vain, he uttered deep imprecations, and appealed to the Almighty on the great day of judgment to exact account of his soul from Juan Car- vallo, his fellow-gossip. His cries were, however, disregard- ed,** continues the narrator, " and we set sail without ever hearing afterward what became of him." This cruel aban- rate, to bave obviated such obloquy as tbat of Dalrymple in the fbllow- ing sentence :— " Every public-spirited PortaKue«e mast lament that oblivion has concealed the names of those ministers who merit the eter- nal execration of their country, for being instrumental in depriving it of the services of so great a manas Magalhanes."— Hist. Collect, of Ducov in the Boutb Sea, vol. L, p. 4. 48 CIRCUMNAVIOATION OF MAGELLAN. donment of a friend is imputed to the hope which Carvallo entertained of succeeding to the command on the death of Serrano, the captains of the other ships being already mas- sacred. It is but justice to the people of Zebu to mention, that one narrative of the voyage imputes the indiscriminate slaughter of the Spaniards to a quarrel arising between them and the natives, for insulting their women. Some years after- ward it was incidentally learned that, instead of being all murdered, eight of the Europeans were carried to China and sold as slaves. But the truth was never clearly ascertained. The armament of Magellan next touched at the Island of Bohol, where, finding their numbers so much reduced by sick- ness and the battle of Matan, they burnt one of the ships, first removing the guns and stores into the others now com- manded by Carvallo. At Zebu they had already heard of the Moluccas, their ultimate destination. They touched at Chip- pit in Mindanao on their way, and afterward at Cagayan Soo- loo, where they first heard of Borneo. In this voyage they were so badly provided with food, that several times hunger had nearly compelled them to abandon their ships, and estab- lish themselves on some of the islands, where they meant to end their days. This purpose appears to have been particu- larly strong after leaving the last-mentioned anchorage, where the people used hollow reeds, through which, by the force of their breath, they darted poisoned arrows at their enemies, and had the hilts of their poniards ornamented with gold and pre- cious stones. The trees, moreover, grew to a great height, but none of the necessary supplies could be obtained. They therefore sailed with heavy hearts and empty stomachs to Pu- luan, where, provisions being very abundant, they acquired fresh courage to persevere in tjjeir voyage. Here a pilot was procured, with whose assistance they steered towards Borneo, which island they reached on the 8th July, 1521, and anchored three leagues from the city, which was computed to contain 25,000 families. It was built within high-water mark, and the houses were raised on posts. At full tide the inhabitants communicated by boats, when the women sold their various commodities. The religion of Borneo was the Mahometan. It abounded in wealth, and the natives are described as exhib- iting a higher degree of civilization and refinement than has been con&rmed by subsequent accounts. Letters were known, and many of the arts flourished among them ; they used brass CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF MAGELLAN. 49 coin in their commerce with one another, and distilled from rice the spirit known in the East by the name of arrack. Presents were here exchanged, and, after the ceremonial of introduction, permission to trade was granted. Elephants were sent to the water's side for the Spanish embassy ; and a feast of veal, capons, several other kinds of fowl, and fish, was placed before them on the floor, while they sat on mats made of palm. After each mouthful they sipped arrack from porcelain cups. They were supplied with golden spoons to eat their rice ; in their sleeping apartment two wax flambeaux in silver candlesticks, and two large lamps with four lights to each, were kept burning all night, two men being ap- pointed to attend to them. The king was a stout man about forty. When admitted to an interview, the deputation first passed through a large saloon thronged with courtiers, and then into an ante-room, where were 300 guards armed with poniards. At the extremity of the apartment was a brocade curtain, and when this was drawn up the king was seen sitting at a table with a little child, and chewing betel, while close behind him were ranged his female attendants. No suiter was permitted to address his majesty personally, but commu- nicated his business in the first place to a courtier, who told it to one of a higher rank, who again repeated it to a still greater dignitary, who, in his turn, by means of a hollow cane fixed in the wall, breathed it into the inner chamber to one of the principal officers, by whom it was ultimately conveyed to the royal ear. The monarch received the Spanish gifts with merely a slight movement of the head, discovering no eager or undignified curiosity, and returned presents of brocade^ and cloth of gold and silver. The courtiers were all naked, save a piece of ornamented cloth round their waists. On their fin- gers they wore many rings ; and their poniards had golden Handles set with gems. The curtain of the royal saloon, which was raised when the ceremony began, dropped at the conclusion, and all was over. Pigafetta was told that the king had two pearls as large as pullets' eggs, and so perfectly round that, placed on a polished table, they rolled continually. The productions of Borneo were rice, sugar-canes, ginger, cam- phire, gums, wax ; fruits and vegetables in great variety ; and among the animals were elephants, camels, horses, and buffa> loes, asses, sheep, and goats. The people were peculiarly skilful in the manufacture of porcelain, which constituted a £ # 50 CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF MAGELLAN. principal article of their merchandise. Their pirogues werv ingeniously formed, and those used for state purposes had their prows carved and gilt. The Spaniards, who seldom or never left any port they vis- ited on good terms with the people, in real or atfected alarm for an attack, seized several junks in the harbour, in which they knew there was a rich booty, and kidnapped some persons of quality. The authority of Carvallo, which had never been respected, was now set aside by the choice of Espinosa as captain-gen- eral. Sebastian del Cano, a Discayan, was also made a com- mander ; and the squadron forthwith conunenced what more resembled a privateering cruise than a peaceful voyage of dis- covery and traffic, pillaging all the small vessels they met, and holding the passengers to ransom. Between the north cape of Borneo and the Island of Cimbubon they found a commo- dious port for careening — a labour which occupied them forty- two days. They were destitute of many things necessary for making repairs ; but the most serious inconvenience was the diiliculty of procuring timber, which, although barefooted, they were obliged to drag from among the tangled and prickly bushes. It was among these thickets that Pigafetta found the famous animated leaf, the account of which tended so much at first to stamp his narrative with the character of fable. '* What to me seemed most extraordinary," he says, " was to see trees, the leaves of which as they fell became animated. These leaves resemble those of the Aiulberry-trce, except in not being so long. Their stalk is short and pointed ; and near the stalk, on one side and the other, they have two feet. Upon being touched they make away ; but when crushed they yield no blood. I kept one in a box for nine days ; on opening the box at the end of this time, the leaf was alive and walking round it. I am of opinion they live on air." Subsequent travel- lers have observed a similar phenomenon, and some conjec- ture that it is moved by an insect within ; while others de- scribe it as a species of bat, the wings of which exactly re- semble a brown leaf with its fibres. Continuing their pirati- cal voyage, they encountered a dreadful storm, and in their alarm vowed to set free a slave in honour of each of the three saints, Elmo, Nicholas, and Clare. The desired lights, the tokens of safety, having appeared on the mast-heads, and con- tinued to shine two hours, the storm abated, and the prooused I 'H f" ■.,)' N. CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF MAGELLAN. 51 gues wert rposes had rt they vis- cted alarm r, in which me persons [ respected, aptain-gen- ade a com- what more ^age of dis- ey met, and north cape 1 a commo- them forty- ecessary for ice was the barefooted, and prickly ta found the ed so much er of fable. '* was to see ;ed. These in not being ar the stalk, Upon being ey yield no ing the box cing round lent travel- me conjee- others de- exactly re- heir pirati- nd in their >f the three lights, the s, and con- e promised v>-\ offering was made.* Touching at Sarrangan, they seized two natives, whom they compelled to act as their pilots to the long- sought Moluccas, which they at length reached, and on the 8m November anchored at Tidore. They met with a hospitable and kind reception. The ships were visited by Almanzor, the sovereign of the island ; a traffic in spices was commenced, and a factory established on shore, where trade soon became brisk, the native productions being readily given in exchange for red cloth, drinking-glasses, Imives, and hatchets. Tlus king was a Mahometan, to which faith the Moors, at a pe- riod comparatively recent, had converted as many of the na- tive princes of the East Indian Islands as they had stripped of their power. The Moluccas, which had been discovered by the Portu- guese in the year 1611, were found to be five in number, lying on the west coast of a large island called Gilolo. They were named Tidore, Temate, Motir, Bachian, and Maquian. Their best spices were nutmegs, cloves, ginger, and cinnamon, which grew almost spontaneously. The nouses were built on piles or posts, and fenced round with cane hedges. The King of Bachian sent as a gift to the emperor two dead birds of exquisite beauty, which the natives called '* birds of God," saying they came from Paradise. These animals, as well as the clove-tree, of which Pigafetta gives a description, are now well known. By the middle of December the cargoes were completed ; and the Spanish commander, ready to depart, was charged with letters and presents, consisting of the rarest productions of the island, sent to the emperor his master by the King of Tidore. When about to sail, the Trinidad was found unfit for sea ; and the Vitoria proceeded alone on the homeward voyage, with a crew of forty-seven Europeans, thirteen Indians, and also Molucca pilots. These native mar- iners entertained the Europeans with many a marvellous le- fend. While steering for Mindanao, before coming to the [oluccas, Pigafetta had heard of a tribe of hairy men, inhab- iting a cape on the Island Benaian, very fierce and warlike, * It may b« proper to explain, that the electric lights, which in stormy weather are frequently seen flickering on the tips of the masts, were be- lieved to represent the body of Saint Elmo, and regarded as a ssre sign that there was no danger in the tempest. When the lights were thret> in number, two of them were supposed to mark the presence of Nidiolaii and Clare. The appearance of these lambent flames was bailed wldi tlie chanting of litanies and orisons. 52 CIRCVMNAVIGAIION OF MAGELLAN. and who were said to consume . the hearts of their prisonem with lemon or orange juice ; and he was now told of a people whose ears were so long, that the one served them for a mat- tress and the other for a coverlet.* He was also informed of a tree, which gave shelter to birds of sufficient sixe and strength to pounce upon an elephant, and bear him up into the air. The Vitoria touched at different places in the voyage to Spain, and, after a mutiny and the loss of twenty-one men, passed the Cape of Good Hope on the 6th May, 1522. Being reduced to the greatest extremity for want of provisions, the officers anchored in the harbour of Santiago, one of the Cape de Verd Islands belonging to the Portuguese, on what, accord- ing to their reckoning, was Wednesday, the 9th July, but which, in fact, proved Thursday, the 10th — a difference which was extrebiely perplexing at fost, though a little reflection soon enabled Pigafctta to perceive the reason, t Some pro- visions were obtained before the quarter whence the ship had come was suspected ; but the truth being at length discovered, in consequence of a sailor offering some spices in exchange for refreshments, the boat was seized, and the people on boara, seeing preparations making for an attack, crowded sail and escaped. On Saturday, the 6th September, 1522, after a voyage of three years' duration, in which upwards of 14,600 leagues of sea had been traversed, Sebastian del Cano brought the * The classical reader will be amused by tbe coincidence between the ,,^ narratives or the Molucca pilots and the wonders related by Strabo, who recounts this among other legends brought flrom the East by the soldiers of Alexander the Great. t To illustrate the fiftct mentioned in the text, let us suppose a ship sailing westward keeps pace with tha sun, it is evident that the crew would have continual day, or it would be the same day to them durinff their circumnavigation of the earth ; whereas the people who remained at the place the vessel departed flrom would have a night In the mean- time, and consequently must reckon a day more than the vt^agers. If the ship sailed eastward, an opposite efi^ct would be produced ; for, by constantly meeting the sun every morning at an earlier hour, a whole day is gained in the tour of the globe. Hence, if two ships should set out at the same time flrom any port, and sail round the world, the one east- ward and the other westward, so as to meet again at the same port, they will be found to differ ttuo days in reckoning iheir time at iheir return. — Keith on the Use of the Globes, p. 43. A beautinil illustration of the phenomenon will also be found in Sir J. F. W. Herschel's Treatise on Astronomy (Lardner's CabiiMt Cyclopsedia), p. 137. CIRCUMNAYIGATION OF MAGELLAN. 53 Vitoria into San Lucar, and on the 8th proceeded up the river to Seville. Pigafetta, from whom every historian of this re- markable voyase borrows so largely, conclude^ his narrative in language almost poetical : — " This our wonderful ship, taking her departure from the Straits of Gibraltar, and sailing southward through the great ocean towards the Antarctic Pole, «nd then turning west, followed that course so long that, pas- sing round, she came into the east, and thence again into the west, not by sailing back, but proceeding constantly forward ; «o compassing about the globe of the world, until she marvel- lously regained her native country Spain." The crew on reaching Seville walked in their shirts, barefooted, and carry- ing tapers in their hands, to church, to offer thanks for their safe return ; eighteen men, out of sixty who sailed from the Moluccas, beinj all that came home in the Vitoria. The ves- sel itself became the theme of poets and romancers; but though some have asserted that she was preserved till she fell to pieces, Oviedo, a contemporary writer, states that she was lost on her return from a voyage to St. Domingo. The com- mander, Sebastian del Cano, escaped the neglect which was the common fate of Spanish discoverers. He was liberally rewarded, and obtained letters-patent of nobility, with a globe for a crest, and the motto Primus me circumdedisti (You first encompassed me). The Trinidad was less fortunate than her consort. After having refitted, she attempted to recross the Pacific, but was nearly wrecked ; and being driven back, the crew were made prisoners by the Portuguese, whose jealousy of Spanish enter- prise in these parts was now violently inflamed by the late transactions at the Moluccas. The voyage of Magellan was attended by the most impor- tant results ; it effected the conununication so long desured between the Atlantic and the Pacific Oceans, and removed the barriers which had hitherto obstructed European naviga- tion in the latter sea. It opened a new path to the riches of India and the spices of the contiguous islands ; and, in fact, achieved what Columbus and his companions had so long en- deavoured to accomplish. It ascertained the southern bound- ary of the American continent, and the extent of the great sea which divides Asia from that portion of the globe, ni its progress he discovered the Unfortunate Islands, the islands SajTpan, Tinian, and Aguigan, four others of the group £2 54 FROM MAGELLAN TO THE END of the Ladrones, and the Philippines or Archipelago of St. Lazarus. He also demonstrated the spherical form of the earth beyond the possibility of doubt; and accomplished what had baffled, even on the threshold, every previous navi- gator. CHAPTER HI. Discoveries and Circumnavigations from Magellan to the End of the Sixteenth Century. Expedition of Loyasa.— Discovery of Papua or New Guinea.— -Voyage of Saavedra.— Of Villalobos.— Of Legaspi.— Of Juan Fernandez.— Expe- dition of Mendana, and Discovery of tlie Solomon Islands.— John Oxen- ham, the first Englishman that sailed on the Pacific — Circumnaviga- tion of Sir Francis Drake.— Expedition of Sarmiento. — Circumnaviga- tion of Cavendish.- His Second Voyage.— The Falkland Islands discov- ered.— Expedition of Sir Richard Hawkins.— Second Voyage of Menda- na.— The Marquesas.— Santa Cruz.— Expedition of five Dutch Vessels. —Circumnavigation of Van Noort.— Retrospect. All the seas and lands discovered by Magellan were de- clared by Spain to be her exclusive possession — an assumption which the other European states, especially Portugal, were unwilling to acknowledge. Th» privilege of sailing by this track to the Moluccas, as woU as those islands themselves, the principal advantages gained by the recent discoveries, were claimed on the double title of the papal grant and the alleged cession by the native princes. But John III., the Por- tuguese monarch, was equally tonacious of his rights. The old dispute as to the boundary and partition line wae renewed, and referred to a convocation of learned cosmographers and skilful pilots, who met near Badajos, and parted as they met ; the commissioners of both crowns being alike obstinate in their claims. The respective governments were thus left to establish their rival pretensions as they should find most con- venient ; and Spain, accordingly, lost no time in fitting out ' an expedition to secure the full benefit of Magellan's lat)ours. i This armament consisted of seven vessek, of which Garcia Jofr? de Loyasa, a knight of St. John, was appointed captain- OF THE SIXTEENTH CENTURY. 55 general ; Sebastian del Cano and other survivers of the former enterprise going out under his command. The squadron Fjailed from Corunna on the 24th of July^ 1525. Every pre- caution having been taken to ensure the success of the voy- age, the fleet at first proceeded prosperously. But accidents soon occurred ; and to the still imperfect state of nautical science we must impute many of the subsequent disasters of Loyasa. The captain-generu was separated from the other ships ; the strait so lat^y discovered had already become un- certain ; Sebastian del Cano*s vessel was wrecked near Cape de las Virgines ; the others were injured ; one of them was forced to the southward,* and two, after suffering much damage, appear to have been conducted back to Spain. In short, it was April before they entered the sound ; the pas- sage proving tedious an J 'ismal, and the crew having suffered much from the 'extrer.t'' ' I Few natives were seen, and those who appeared wi> *\} ligns of a hostile disposition, probably from recollecting iiow their confidence was abused by their former visiters. On the 26th of May the fleet reached the South Sea, but was almost immediately dispersed in a storm. Two of the vessels steered for New Spain, and in their course endured much from want of provisions ; the sailors having little else to subsist on than the birds which they caught in the rigeins. Of the two remaining ships, one ran aground at the Island of Sanghir, after the crew had mutinied and thrown overboard the captain, his brother, and the pilot ; while the other, which carried the admiral and his second in command, held northwest. Both these officers were now sick ; and four days after crossing the line, being the 30th of July, 1526, Loyasa died, and Del Cano, who had weathered so many dangers, expired in less than a week. Alonzo de Sa- lazar, who succeeded to the charge, steered for the Ladrones, and, in 14° north, discovered the island which he named » J/ i * The Spaniards claim an important discovflry in consequence or this accidental circumstance. The San Lesmes, a bark commanded by Fran- cisco de Hozes, is reported to have been driven to 5S® south in the gale, and the captain affirmed that he had seen the end of Tierra del Fuego. This a Spanish writer supposes to have been Cape Horn ; while Bumey thinlcs it more probable that it was Staten Lano, the certain discovery or which in, however, of much later date. The extent of projecting land between the eastern entrance to the strait and Cape Horn makes it unlikely that it could have been seen by the crew of the San Lesmes.— Chron. Hist, of Discovery in the South Sea, vol i., p. 1S4. *. n 56 FROM MAGELLAN TO THE END ; \ San Btrtolome, the native appellation of which has been lately ascertained to be Poulousouk.^ Between Maeellan^s Strait and the latitude now specified, thirty-eight of the sea- men perished, and the survivors were so enfeebled that they Uiought proper to entrap eleven Indians to work the pumps. Salazar, the third commander, died ; and it was November before they came to anchor at Zamafo, a port in an island belonging to their ally the King of Tidore. On reaching the Moluccas, disputes immediately arose between the Spaniards- and the Portuguese governor settled at Temate ; and a petty maritime warfare ensued, which was prosecuted several years with various degrees of activity and success — the people of Tidore supporting their former friends, while those of Ter- nate espoused the cause of their rivals. In the «)0urse of this year, 1620, Papua was discovered by Don Jorge de Meneses, in his passage from Malacca to the Spice Islands, of which he had been appointed governor by the court of Portugal. About the same period, Diego da Rocha made himself acquainted with the Islands de Sequeira ; believed to be apart of those which in modern times bear the name of Pelew, and belong to the extensive archipelago of the Carolines.! In the course of the following summer, the fourth captain-general of Loyasa^s squadron died, as was al- leged, by poison administered at the instigation of the Por- tuguese governor ; and shortly afterward his ship, which had been much damaged by repeated actions, was declared unfit for Uie homeward voyage. In the same season, the celebrated Heman Cortes equipped three vessels for the Spice Isles, which sailed from New Spain on the eve of All Saints under the command of his kinsman Alvaro de Saavedra. Two of them were almost imme- diately separated from the adminfl, who, pursuing his course alone, after leaving the Ladrones, discovered on Twelfth Day a cluster of islands, to which, from this circumstance, he gave the name of Los Reyes, or The Kings, t The men were * VoyafB antoar du Monde, par. M. L. de Freycinet. Historiqae, tome H., p. fiO, m t ** Let lies qu*il [Diego da Rocha] nomma Sequeira, ne paroissent £tre autras, ef: eflRst, que le« Matehtas, sUu^es dans I'E. N. E. des Pa- lao«."— Freycinet, in op. eit., tome ii., p. 76. t They are included in the Caroline range, and are supposed to be Identical with lbs Egoi Islands of the present maps.— Freycinet, tome iU., p. 70. r or THE SIXTEENTH CBNTVRY. 67 naked, save a piece of mattiDB about their middle — tall, ro- bust, and swarthy, with long hair and rough beards. They had large canoes, and were armed with cane lances. When Saavedra, after a run of little more than two months, reached the Moluccas, he was immediately attacked by the Portu- guese, bat aupported by his countiymen, the residue of Lo- yasa's fleet, who had now built a bri^antine. Having com- pleted his carffo, he sailed for New Spam on the 3d June, 1628 —an eastward voyage that for a series of years baffled the most skilful navigators. Land was reached, which the Spaniards named Isla del Oro, in the belief that it abounded in gold. There is, however, reason to conclude that it was Papua, af- terward called New Guinea, from the resemblance between the natives and the negroes on the coast of Africa. They were black, with short crisped hair, and had the features of that distinctive race of Polynesia, since termed Oceanic ne- groes, who are found in many of those groups which are scat- tered throughout the vast Pacific, sometimes mixed with the other great family by which these islands are peopled, but generally apart. Saavedra, finding the wind unfavourable, was obliged to return to the Moluccas ; nor was his second attempt to reach New Spain, in the following year, more for- tunate. In this voyage he once more touched at Papua. When formerly there he hra made three captives, two of whom, on again seeing the beloved shores of their native land, plunged into the sea while thn ship was yet distant ; but the third, who was more tractabl . and had by this time been baptized, remained as envoy fron his new friends to b!.s ancient coun- trymen, and to establish i amicable traffic. When the ves- sel neared the beach, he also left her, in order to swim ashore ; but, without being allowed to land, he was assailed and mur-' dered, as an outcast and renegade, in presence of his Chris- tian patrons. A group of small islands (part of the Caro- lines) in 7^ north, were, from the circumstance of the natives being tattooed or painted, named Los Pintados. To the northeast of this cluster, several low ones, well peopled, were discovered, and named Los Buenos Jardines.* At this place Saavedra dropped anchor, and the inhabitants drew * " Noua reoonnoiMoni dans lea premi tres [Los Pintados] line potw tion des lies Ralik, «t dans I«s secondes [Los JBuenm Jardines] I'extr^ loit^ nord des Radak, groupe explore long-tempa apris [1810-17] par to capitaine russe Kotxebue."— Freycinet, tomeii., p. 76. # FROM MAGELLAN TO THB END near the shore, waving a flag. A number of men came on board, accompanied by a female, who touched each of the Spaniards in succession, and was from that circum- stance supposed to be a sorceress brought for the purpose of discovering what kind of beings they were. Both sexea were light-complexioned and tattooed. The women were beautiful, with agreeable features and long black hair, and wore dresse of fine matting. Saavedra, on landing, wa» met by a promiscuous band advancing in a certain order, with tambourines and festal songs. 1 o gratify the curiosity of their chief, a musket was fired, which struck them with such terror that the greater part immediately fled in their ca- noes to a station tmree leagues distant, whence they were with difficulty induced to return. These islands afforded abundance of cocoanuts and other vegetable productions. The commander died soon after leaving the Good Gardens ;* and after vainly attempting to reach New Spain, the ship once more returned to the Moluccas. After sustaining many varieties of fortune, the Spaniards, finding that they could procure no re-enforcements from their own country, consented to abandon the settlement, on condition of being furnished with means to convey them home. They accordingly departed for Cochin in 1534, but did not reach Europe till 1637, after an ab- sence of twelve years. " Though the honour," says Bumey, " of sending forth the second ship that encircled the globe cannot be claimed by the Spanish nation, it is nevertheless a justice M * To Saavedra is aseribel the bold idoa of cutting a canal fW>m sea to sea through the Isthmus ni' Darlen. This project, which has been often revived, very early engaged the attention of Spain. It Is discussed in Joe. Acoata'ii History or tlie Indies, who urges against the design an opinion, that one sea being higher than the other, the undertaking must be attended by some awmi calamity tq the globe. GbservHtlons made under the patronage of Bolivar, and completed in 1820, seem to show that the levels of the two oceans are diffbrent ; but as our ideas of a canal no longer Imply a channel through which the waters of the one sea should flow into the other, the apprehensions that occurred to the Spanish historian have ceased to appal us. The chief obstacle is the enormous expenne ; for it seems now to be suiBcieiitly proved that either a canal or a railway is quite practicable (See Royal Socletv 1'ransac- tiona for 1830)-, indeed, it is leported that the construction or the latter has been determined on by the government of New Grenada. A cut was in ftct made in 1788, connecting a tribuuiry of the San Juan with a braiioh of the Quito, and thus opening a communication between the Atlantic and the Pacific, during the rainy season, lb the canoes of tiie country, which draw ftom one to two fbet of water* v'!. • OF THE SIXTEENTH CENTURY. 59 I camo &ch of ircum- mrpote \ sexes^ in wer© lir, and ig. wa» I order, ;uriositY im with their ca- ;ey were afforded luctions. trdens ;* the ship ing many ey could sonsented (hed with parted for ter an ab- Bumey, [be cannot a justice omseato 1 been often ■■cusaedin 1 design an iking must lions made y\ to show ideas of ^r the one Ired to the Icle is the Ithat either T Transac- Ithe latter la. A cut pan with a jween the loes of tlM 1 due to the memoiy of the few of Loyasa*8 and Saavedra*s men who reached their native country, to notice thcin as the navigators who the second time performed that tour."* Several voyages had in the mean time been attempted, by private adventurers ; but they all proved abortive, and m paa< «age by Magellan's Straits, as well as the schemes which began to be entertained for opening a communication through the Isthmus of Darien, was abandoned, when, in 1629, the Emperor Charles V. mortgaged or ceded to Portugal his right to all the islands west of the Ladrones, for 360,000 ducats (108,181i., 15«.). The discoveries now opening in other quarters likewise contributed to divert attention from this point. The peninsula of California was visited a few years afterward. Its gulf and outer shores were examined by Cor* tes in 1636 ; new settlements were also every year rising in Mexico and Peru, which engrossed the cares of the Spanish governor ; and it was not till the year 1642, that, forgetting ^e cession to Portugal, a squadron was once more fitted out, destined for the Archipelago of St. Lazarus. This was the work of Mendoza, viceroy of Mexico, and the command was intrusted to his brother-in-law, Ruy Lopez de Villalobos. He discovered the Island of San Tomas, in latitude 18^ 30' north, and a cluster, which he named £1 Coral. On the 6th January, 1643, at 36 leagues from the Coral Isles, the fleet passed ten islands belonging to the group of the Carolines, and probably the same with Saavedra's Gardens. The squadron coasted along Mindanao, and on reaching Sarrangan, an island near the south part of Mindanao, resolved to establish in it that settlement which was the chief purpose of their expedition. This the natives, though at first hospitable ar d friendly, stoutly opposed ; but the captain-general, having already taken formal possession of all the islands for the emperor, determinv'^d to make good his point, and, accordingly, attacking their forces, compelled them to retreat. Here the Spaniards raised their first harvest of Indian com in the Philippines — the name now ?'ven by Villalobos to the Archipelago, in compUment to the rince-royal of Spain. The inhabitants of several islands in a short time became more friendly ; traffic was established ; and this success once more excited the jealous apprehensions of the Portuguese, and induced them to foment intrigues * Chion. Hiau of Diicov. in South Sea, vol. i., p 161. < .i:*, 60 FROM MAGELLAN TO THE END among the native chiefs who favoured the different EaropeatI leaders. In the progress of events, the conduct of Villalobos was marked by perndy to the allies he had gained, and by treachery to his sovereign. In de£;pite of the remonstrances of his officers, he accepted unworthy terms from the Portu- guese, and provided himself a passage home in one of their ships. But his main object was debated, for he died at Am- bo3ma of sickness and chagrin — ^thus eluding the vengeance of the country which he had betrayed. The commencement of a new reign is a period proverbial for energy and activity. Among the first acts of Philip 11. was an order issued to the Viceroy of Mexico for the final conquest of the Philippines. The Fray Andres de Urdaneta, a celebrated cosmographer and navigator, who, after sailing with Loyasa, liad become a monk, was requested to accom- pany an Expedition for this purpose ; and to him the honour was given of nominating the captain-general, his own profes- sion forbidding him to hold any secular rank. His choice fell upon Miguel Lopez de Legaspi, a person of great prudence, who sailed with four ships from Navidad in New Spain on the 21st November, 1564. On the 9th January following they discovered a small island, which they named De los Bajrbudos, on account of the large beards of the natives, and next morn- ing a circle of islets, which were called De los Plazeres, from the shoals which ran beiAreen them. A similar group were perceived on the 12th, named Las Hermanas, or ^nie Sisters ; and are supposed to be the same v/ith the Pescadores and Ar- recifes of modem charts. The squadron touched at the La- drones, and without seeing other land made the Philippines, where, according to the sealed orders received from the king, they were to form a settlement. On the 13th of February they anchored near the east part oi the Island Tandaya. The natives wore the semblance of friendship ; and an alliance was made with the chiefs, according to the customs of their coun- try, the parties drawing blood from their arms and breasts, and mingling it with wine or water, in which they pledged mutual fidelity.* In this ceremony the captain-general declined to join, alleging that there was ro person on the other side of * The classical reader will not need to l)e reminded that Herodotus records similar customs as preTalent among the Scythians and other nations. P i .# OF THB SIXTEENTH CENTURY. 61 Earope«tt VillalobOT 5d, and by onstrances the Portu- le of their ied at Am- vengeanne proverbial f PhiUp 11. >r the final B Urdaneta, fter sailing , to accom- the honour own profes- 3 choice fell t prudence, Spain on the owing they IS Barbudos, next mom- izeres, from group were ^e Sisters ; wes and Ar- at the La- •hilippines, >m the king, of February idaya. The aUiance was their coun- jreasts, and Iged mutual declined to ther side of tat Herodotus and other sufficient rank to contract with him. The Indians, however, could not be so far insnared as to become the dupes of Eu- ropean policy, remarking that the Spaniards gave "ffood words but bad works." The fleet sailed from place to place, but small progress was made in gaining the confidence of the people, who were now fully alive to the intentions of their visiters. One station after another was abandoned, and though a good understanding was established with the chief of Bohol, with whom Legaspi performed the ceremony of bleeding, Zebu was at last selected as the centre of coloni- zation. There the Spaniards carried matters in a higher tone than they had hitherto assumed. The tardiness of the people to acknowledge the offered civiUties of the voyagers was used as a pretext for aggression, and the foundation of the first Spanish colony in the Philippines was laid in the ashes of the sacked capital. Hostilities continued to be waged for a time between the islanders and the invaders ; but at last a peace was concluded. The news of the settlement was carried back to America by the Fray Andres Urdaneta, the pilot-monk, who sailed on the 1st June, and on the 3d of October reached Acapulco — an exploit highly extolled at the time, as the pas- sage across the Pacific from west to east, so necessary to fa- cilitate the communication between the Philippines and the mother-countzy, had hitherto bafiled every navigator. By fol- lowing a course to the 43d degree of north latitude fair winds were obtained ; and the homeward voyage long continued to be made to New Spain by the same track, which acquired the name of Urdaneta's Passage. The occupation of Manilla soon followed that of Zebu, and it became the insular capital of the Spaniards in the eastern world. Geographical discovery and maritime enterprise were now to receive a new spirit from that extraordinary career of conquest which, commenced by Heman Cortes almost contempora- neously with the voyage of Magellan, had already extended over the greater part oi the western coast of South America. In the year 1563, Juan Fernandez, a Spanish pilot, in the passage from Peru to the new establishments in Chili, had stood out to sea in the hopes of finding favourable winds, and in his progress descried two islands ; one of which was called Mas-afuera, while the other received the name of its discov- erer, and has since acquired much celebrity as the supposed scene of Defoe's romance of Robinson Crusoe. 62 FROM MAGELLAN TO THE END tn the year 1667, Lopez Garcia de Castro, the viceroy of Peru, titled out the first expedition which sailed from that country expressly for the purpose of discovery. He intrusted the command to Alvaro de Mendana de Neyra, who departed from Callao, the port of Lima, on the 10th of January. Hav- ing directed his progress westward a distance which is va^ riously stated by different writers, he reached a small island inhabited by copper-coloured savages, and named it the Isla de Jesus. Shortly after, he discovered a large shoal, which he called Baxos de la Candelaria (Candlemas Shoals), and from this descried an extensive land, for which he set sail, and anchored in a harbour, that received the appellation of Santa Ysabel de la Estrella (St. Isabel of the Star). The inhab- itants were of a bronze complexion, had woolly hair, and wore no covering save round their waists. They were divided into tribes, and engaged in continual warfare with one another. They seemed to be cannibals, but their usual food consisted of cocoanuts, and a species of root which they called venaus. Having first, with the characteristic devotion of the age, caused mass to be celebrated on these new-found shores, Mendana constructed a brig large enough to carry thirty men, which was despatched to explore the neighbouring coasts. The result was the discovery of an archipelago consisting of eighteen islands, some of which were found to be 300 leagues in circumference, though of several others no definite knowl- edge was obtained. The names of Santa Ysabel, Gua- dalcanal, Malaita, San Christoval, and El Nombre de Dios, were bestowed on the principal ones ; while the group re- ceived the general appellation of the Solomon Islands, from a belief that they had supplied the gold and treasure employed in the building of the Temple.* The air was extremely sa- * The minds of the early discoverers iieem to have been constantly in flamed by the description of the wealth or iiolomon, who " made silver to b« in Jeraualem as stones," and whose " drinking vessels were o gold, and all the vessels of the house of tlie forest of I.ebanon were ol pure gold : none were of silver : it was nothing accounted of in the days of Solomon."— I Kings, x., 21, 27. The land of Ophir, from which th< navy of Hiram brought gold and " great plenty of almug-trees, and pre cious stones," was the object of continual search ; and Columbus, among bis other dreams, believed that he found this source of Jewish splendoui in Hispaniola and Veragua.— Ir\'ing's Columbus, vol. iii., p. 251, and vol iv., p. 59. The true position of Ophir is yet a questio vexata amoni geographers. It has been placed in India, in Arabia, in Aflrica, and evei in Peru. Etymology, the nevw-AiiUng support of such speculationa OF THE SIXTEENTH CBKTURT. 63 lubrious ; the fertile soil offered ample resources for a dense population, and the rivers washed down great quantities of the precious metals. The archipelago, however, was not ex- plored without several rencounters taking place between the Spaniards and the savages, who fought with much valour. After this rapid survey, Mendana returned to Peru in the be* ginning of March, 1668. Many years passed ere any farther knowledge of his discoveries was sought ; and their situation long furnished a perplexing theme for the discussion of geog- n^hers. In the year 1674, Juan Fernandez visited two small islands lying near the continent of America, which were named San Felix and San Amber. About the same period, a discovery is ascribed to him of a more doubtful character. Sailing from the coast of Chili, about the latitude of 40^ south,* he is reported to have reached, after a voyage of a month, the coast of a continent which seemed to be very fertile and well cultivated. The people were white, wore fine attire, and were of an amiable and peaceful disposition. Several large rivers fell into the sea, and altogether it *' appeared much better and richer than Peru." This country has been supposed by some to be New Zealand ; others are inclined wholly to discred- it the voyage ; and the data are certainly too meager to warrant the identification of this supposed continent with any of the islands in the Pacific known to geography. comes in aid of tbis last bypotbesis witb tbe expression " gold oC Par* valm." * It is to be regretted that the learned Barney should have lessened the value of his important work by the loose and unscholar-like (hsbion of departing fk-om the words of his author, even while pretending to quote Uterally. This practice has led him into numerous mistakes. Thus, in relating the discovery of Fernandez, be takes occasion to quote the Memorial of Doctor Juan Luis Arias, published by Dalrymple (Hist. Coll., vol. i., p. 53), as to tbe fbllowing eflbct :— «* Arias says, * Tbe pilot, Juan Fernandex, sailed from the coast of Chili, a little mere or less than forty degrees, in a small ship, witb certain of his companions,* dtc."— Chron. Hist, of Discovery, vol.i., p. 300. But the passage, as it stands in Dalrymple, is materially different ; " A pilot, named Junn Fer- nandez, who discovered the track fVom Lima to Chili, by going to the westward (which till then bad been made witb much difficulty, as they kept along shore, where the southerly winds almost constantly prevail), sailing from the coast of Chili, about the latitude of forty degrees, littU more or less, in a small ship, witb some of his companions," &c.— Vol. i., p. 53. It will be seen that Burusy thus quotes Arias as specUViiig Ilie Ivngitvjiey wbile in truth be only indicates the latitu/db. u FROM MAOBLLAN TO THE END The year 1675 saw the first launching of a bark by an Eng- lish seaman in the waves of the South Sea, a feat which was vccompUshed by John Oxenham, a native of Plymouth. Laifd- ing on the north side of Darien, he marched across the neck of land ; and having built a small vessel, he intrusted himself to the ocean, and steered for the Pearl Islands. There he captured two rich prizes, and returned with his spoil to re* cross the isthmus, an attempt in which he was slain. Unfortunate as was the issue of this enterprise, it did not chill the ardour or damp the courage of his countrymen. Within two years was commenced the first voyage round the globe performed by the British, by the renowned Sir Francis Drake. When, from a " goodly and great high tree" on the Isthmus of Darien, this bold navigator first saw the South Sea, we are told that " he besought Almighty God of his good- ness to give him life and leave to sail once in an English ship in that sea.'* Several years elapsed before this wish was gratified ; but at length, on the 13th December, 1577, he was enabled to set sail from Plymouth with a fleet of five vessels, bearing 164 men. He made the eastern inlet to the Straits of Magellan on the 20th of August, and in 17 days after en- tered the Pacific. Here he encountered a succession of stcnrms, during one of which he was driven far to the southward, when, it is probable, he discovered Cape Horn. " He fell in," says an old nanator, *'with the uttermost part of land towards the South Pole ; which uttermost cape or headland of all these islands, stands near in the 66th degree, without which there is no main nor island to be seen to the south- ward, but the Atlantic Ocean and the South Sea meet in a large and free scope." When the weather became fair Drake stood to the northward, and cruised along the coasts of Chili, Peru, and Mexico, capturing the vessels of the Spaniards and plundering their towns. In the hope of finding a northeast passage or strait, he still continued his course, and explored a country, which he named New Albion, to the 48th degree of north latitude. It was then determined to run westward, and return to Europe by the Cape of Good Hope. After sailing sixty-eight days, he discovered some islands, to which he gave the name of the Thieves,^ and which have been conjectured * " Drake d^ouvrit des lies, qaMl nomma Islands of Tkievts, et qni paroissent £tre les lies sitn^es aa sud de Yap. Elles porteot sur U carte OP THE 8IXTEENTR CENTURY. to be identical with some of those called the Pelew in th« Caroline archipelago. From these he proceeded to the Philippines ; and after touching at Java and other places, set sail for England. On the 16th June, 1680, he passed the southern point of Africa, which, says an old author, *' is a most stately thing, and the fairest cape we saw in the whole circumference of the earth ;"* and on the 26th of September anchored safely at Plymouth, after an absence of two years and nearly ten months. In geographical discovery Diuke's voyage was barren, but it gave a new spirit to the maritime enterprise of Britain, and brought wealth and fame to its commander. Queen Elizabeth honoured him by diniiig on board his ship, where she also conferred the distinction of knighthood ; for many years his vessel was preserved at Dept- ford ; and a chair, made from one of her planks and presented to the University of Oxford, has been celebrated by the muse of Cowley, t The unexpected appearance of Drake in the South Sea was ft matter of serious alarm to the Spaniards. Their exclusive navigation of that ocean was now gone ; and instead of gathering in peace the treasures which the islands in its bosom, and the opulent empires on its margin, might afford, they perceived that henceforth they would have to contend for their riches with a powerful and ambitious enemy. In fact, they soon saw the English successfully penetrating the Magellanic Straits — a channel so difficult as to have given rise to a saying, '^ that the passage had closed up.** It had, indeed, been Uttle frequented by the Spaniards, who, it may be conjectured, found a more profitable employment in the colonization of their recent conquests. But the havoc which Drake carried along their coasts once more attracted their atten- tion to the Straits, and, in 1679, Pedro Sarmiento de Gamboa was despatched from Lima to survey them, and report ^e result of his observations. In pursuance of his advice, it was d?* termined to fit out a powerful armament, with a deng*.! of No. 7 de notre Atlas bydrographiqae, le nom d'lles Lamoleao Ourmt. Llle Yap est nommte aussi Eap par qaelques auteurs."— Freycinet, tome U., p. n. * Haklayt, vol. iii., p. 742. t A copious narrative of the Life and Voyages of Drake has already appeared in the Family Library, No. XXX. Lives and Voyages of Drake, Cavendish) and Damirier. i 66 FROM MAGELLAN TO THE END fortifying the narrows, and thus closing against hostile intru- sion what they considered the only portal of the Pacific. The fate of this expedition was singularly disastrous ; nor was it until after making repeated attempts and sustaining much loss that they effected an entrance. Two cities were founded, named Nombre de Jesus and San Felipe, and peopled by Eu- ropeans, who had a supply of provisions for only eight months. On his voyage to Spain, the captain was taken prisoner by an EngUsh cruiser belonging to Sir Walter Raleigh. His unfortunate colony was speedily reduced to the greatest mis- eries ; no attempt was made to send them succours from home ; and, being thus abandoned to want and the frightful inclemencies of the weather, sad ravages were made among them. Only two who survived these dreadful sufferings re- turned to their native country. The path to the South Sea once laid open, no long time elapsed ere it again became the scene of English adventure. In 1586, Mr. Thomas Cavendish, a gentleman of the county of Suffolk, fitted out, a* his own expense, an expedition to the Pacific, and sailed from Plymouth on the 21st July. He reached the Straits of Magellan on the 6th January following, and cleared their farther outlet on the 24th of February. Like Drake, the object he had in view was plunder ; and, like that navigator, too, he stood along the western coast of America, carrying fire and sword wherever he went. At length, in November, glutted with spoil, he steered across the ocean, and in January, 1588, made the Ladrone Islands. In the pas- sage homeward he touched at St. Helena, and first communi- cated to England its capabilities and advantages. He ar- rived at Plymouth on the 9th September, having circumnavi- gated the globe in two years and fifty days, a period shorter than that required by either of his^ predecessors. The chief contribution which this voyage made to geogra- phy was the discovery of Port Desire on the east coast of Pat- agonia. In a lucrative point of view it was so successful, that Cavendish resolved to engage in another expedition to the same quarter of the globe. Accordingly, he again lef^ England, and, after a voyage of seven months, he entered the Strait of Magellan, on the 14th of April, 1592. Dispirited by the storms which he encountered there, he determined, on the 16th of May, to retrace his course towards the coast of Brazil, and soon afterward died on his passage home. I i i ] € g r d in 1( th in w th A OF THE SIXTEENTH CENTURY. 67 e intro- Pacific. nor was ig much founded, IbyEu- montha. joner by h. His test mis- urs from frightful [e among rings re- ong time dventure. 16 county ion to the fuly. He following, ry. Like , like that America, length, in le ocean, the pas- jommuni- He ar- kumnavi- |d shorter geogra- Bt of Pat- [iccessful, edition to jain left Ltered the ])irited by [lined, on coast of . The voyage, though its results were not very gratifymg, was marked by an incident of some importance. After re- passing the Straits, one of the vessels, under the command of Captain Davis, was separated from the squadron, and having met with adverse gales, was *' driven in among certaine Isles never before discovered by any knowen relation, lying fiftie leagues or better from the shoare, east and northerly from the Streights, in which place, unlesse it had pleased God of his wonderfull mercie to have ceased the winde, wee must of ne- cessitie have perished."* On this group he seems to have bestowed no name ; but they are now known by the designa^ tion of the Falkland Islands.f After this occurrence Davis succeeded in reaching the South Sea ; but, returning almost immediately, his ship eventually arrived at Bearhaven in Ire- land, in June, 1593, with only sixteen persons remaining of seventy-six 'who left England. Of the expeditions now briefly noticed, which constitute so important an era in the naval histoi^^ of this country, and abound with spirit-stirring adventures, a copious narrative has been given in a preceding volume of the Edinburgh Cabinet Library, j: We have shortly to mention yet another expedition fitted out in the reign of Elizabeth. This was undertaken by Sir Richard Hawkins, who sailed from Plymouth on the 12th of June, 1593. In his passage towards the Strait, he observed the islands formerly seen by Davis, though he appears to have considered them as altogether unknown. "The land," he says, " for that it was discovered in the reigne of Queene Elizabeth, my souereigne lady and mistris, and a mayden queene, and at my cost and aduenture, in a perpetuall mem- ory of her chastitie, and remembrance of my endevours, I gave it the name of Hawkins' Maiden-land."^ Sir Richard reached the South Sea, and began to follow the example of ♦ Hakluyt, vol. lil., p. 846. t Burney seems to have been among the flrat to vindicate Davis's claim to the discoyery of this group, which it was supposed was fbr< merly seen by Sir Richard Hawliina.— Chron. Hist. Discov , vol. 11., p. 103. t Lives and Voyages of Drake, Cavendish, and Dampier. For a (lir- ther account of Davis, one of England's most intrepid seamen, who, hav- ing effected discoveries in the extreme resions of the north and the south which have immortalized his name, was doomed to perish in a quarrel in the East Indies, the reader is referred to the Narrative of Discovery and Adventure in the Polar Seas and Regions. $ Furcbas, vol. Iv., p. 1394. i 68 FROM MAGELLAN TO THE END ( his more illustrious predecessors, Drake and Cavendish ; bat his fortune proved very different. On the 22d of June, 1594, his ship was captured near Cape de San Francisco, and car- ried into Panama, in honour of which event that city was il- luminated. This was the last voyage in the Pacific made by Eng- lish navigators for many years. The course of our narra- tive accordingly turns again to the expeditions of the Span- iards. In 1594, Philip II., in a letter to the Viceroy of Peru, rec- onunended " the encouragement of enterprises for new dis- coveries and settlements, as the best means to disembarrass the land from many idle gentry ;" and, in compliance with this suggestion, an armament was prepared next year to effect a settleme9t in the Island of San Chnstoval, one of the Solo- mon archipelago, visited, as has been already narrated, in 1567. The fleet consisted of four vessels supplied with 378 men, of whom 280 were soldiers ; it was commanded by Al- varo de Mendana, by whom the islands had been discovered, under the title of Adelantado, and the chief pilot was Pedro Fernandez de Quiros — a name which afterward became fa- mous in the annals of nautical adventure. The adelantado was accompanied by his wife, the Donna Ysabel Berreto, and, as was usual in those days, a certain number of priests sailed on board the armada. On the 16th of June, 1596, Mendana, leaving Payta, pursued a course nearly due west uiitil the 21st July, when he was in latitude 10° 50' S., and, by the reckoning of Quiros, 1000 leagues distant from Lima. On that day an island was dis- covered and named La Madalena ; and the adelantado believ- ing it to be the land he sought, there was much rejoicing amon^ the crew, and Te Deum laudamus was sung with great devotion. Next day, when they drew near the shore, there sallied forth in rude procession about seventy canoes, and at the same time many of the inhabitants made towards the ships by swimming. They were in complexion nearly white, of good stature, and finely formed ; and on their faces and bodies were delineated representations of fishes and other devices. The Spanish chroniclers extol the gentle manners and the beauty of these natives very highly. " There came," says Figueroa,* • mayor, to Don Antonio Merga, and published by him in " Sucesoa de las Phiiipinas. Mexico, 1609.'' This Is also to be found in Dalrymple's excellent work. 70 FROM MAGELLAN TO THE END Magellan.* The ships passed on, pursuing the same course, but discontent and disappointment soon broke out on board. Of the land, long since predicted by the adelantado as near at hand, no signs had yet appeared ; and some of the crew scru- pled not to say that they were going no cne knew whither. Amid these murmurs of dissatisfaction, Mendana, we are told^ went about with a rosary ever in his hand, wearing an air (^ devotion, and severely reprehending all profaneness of speech. On the night of the 7th September, land was at lengUi per- ceived ; and on that same night one of the vessels disappeared and was no more seen. At sunrise the land yras ascertained to be an island of large extent ; and was forthwith named Santa Cruz. Another was seen to the northward, on which there was a volcano in great activity. When first observed, it had a regularly-formed peak ; but this was destroyed a few days after oy an eruption of such violence as to be felt on board the smps, though at the distance of ten leagues. The natives were immediately recognised by Mendana as of a kin- dred race with the inhabitants of the Solomons, yet they ap- peared to speak a different language. Their hair was woolly, and frequently stained white, red, and other colours ; they had ornaments of bone or teeth round their necks, and used bows and arrows. Their warlike disposition was evinced by their commencing an attack on the Spaniards. This was, indeed, quickly repelled ; but the ferocity of the savages and the cru- elty (rf the voyagers kept up a continued warfare during their stay. The adelantado at length determined to form a settle- ment on the margin of a bay, which, from its goodly aspect, was named La Graciosa. The ground was soon cleared, and several houses built. Sedition and mutiny, however, now made their appearance, and it was found necessary to punish three of the conspirators with dea^. The inhumanity of his people towards the natives reached at the same time a height altogether unprecedented. A chief, Malipe, whom Quiros calls " our greatest friend and lord of the island," was mur- dered by some of the crew, apparently vdthout the slightest cause or pretext ; though, to the honour of Mendana, it uiould be mentioned, that he inflicted death on the perpetrators of this cruel outrage. But this was among the last of his acts, dis- ease and care having ahready reduced him to the utmost ex* * Bumey, Chron. Hist. Discov., vol.ii., p. 173. OF THB SIXTEENTH CENTURY. 71 I tremity. On the 17th of October, which was marked by a total eclipse of the moon, he made his will, leaving his author- ity to his wife, Donna Ysabel, and constituting her brother, Don Lorenzo Berreto, captain-general under her. He was so weak that he could scarcely subscribe his name to this docu- ment, and he only survived till midnight. His character may be given in the words of Figueroa : " He was known to bo very eager to accomplish whatever he put hand to ; he was zealous for the honour of God and the service of the king ; of high mind, which had engaged him in the former voyages and discoveries ; good actions gave him pleasure, and he detested bad ; he was very courteous and sweet-tempered ; not too apt to give reasons, and therefore not desirous of them ; more so- licitous of works than words. He appeared to be well in re- gard to his own conscience. He never passed for high, so that it was the opinion that he knew more than he performed."* The melancholy rites of burial were celebrated with suitable pomp. The coffin was borne on the shoulders of eight offi- cers, and the soldiers marched with muskets reversed, and dragging their colours in the dust. Shortly after, the new captain-general was wounded in a skirmish with the natives, and died on the 2d November. The vicar soon followed him — " a loss," says Figueroa, '' such as the sins of these unfortunate pilgrims deserved ; it served as a stroke to tell them they were displeasing to God, when, after 80 many corporeal afflictions, he took from them their spiritual comfort." Continued misfortunes had now reduced the settle- ment to a state so helpless that twenty determined savages could have destroyed it without danger ; and the Donna Ysa- bel, bereft of her husband and brother, and discouraged by so many evils, resolved to abandon the projected colony. Hav- ing accordingly embarked all the settlers, and taken on board * Bomey seems to have been disposed to look only on the dark side of Mendana'8 character . " His merits,'* it is observed, " as a navigator, or as a commander, have not contributed towards rendering him conspicu- ous ; and it it remarked inFigv/troa that hisdecUh was lamented ottht by hi» relations and his favourites.'"— Chron. Hiat. Discov., vol. ii., p. 162. This certainly is not a fair representation of Figueroa's statement, which runs thus: *'The governess and her flriends were much afibcted by his death, others were glad of it. It is to be supposed these were the worst people in the company, to whom his goodness gave qffence ; for it is impossible for one who lives in dread to love that which occasions his fear ; and particularly when the wicked have the good to Judge of their evil works."— Dalrymple, Hist. Coll., vol. i., p. ItfO. ' •^:« 72 FROM MAGELLAN TO THE END the corpse of the adelantado, the three vessels which now com- posed the fleet set sail on the 18th of Novemher, after a stay at Santa Cruz of two months and eight days. It was intended to seek the I^and of San Christoval; " but," says Quiros, " when we continued on the course two days and saw nothing, on the petition of all the people, who spoke aloud, the governess commanded me to take the route for the city of Manilla." In their voyage thither, an island was discovered about thirty leagues in circuit, and clothed with trees and herbage. No name seems at that time to have been assigned to it, and though its position is very im- perfectly indicated, it may be conjectured to be one of the Carolines.* Two of the vessels reached the Philippines after much privation ; the third was found stranded on the coast with all her sails set, but her people were dead.f Shortly after this disastrous expedition, the Spaniards were alarmed by the appearance of a new foe in the ocean which they had fever regarded as their own. This unexpected ene- my was the Dutch, who, fired alike by hatred of the nation which had so long oppressed them, and stimulated by hopes of gain, determined to carry the hostilities, hitherto confined to the plains of the Low Countries, far beyond the bounds oi Europe, and to attack the possessions of their former tyrants in India and the South Seas. In June, 1598, five vessels left Holland for the purpose of sailing to the East Indies by the Straits of Magellan, and cruising against the Spaniards on the coasts of Chili and Peru. On the 6tn of the following' April, they entered the Straits ; but in consequence of some unforeseen difficulties, they were obliged to winter in Green Bay, where they suffered much from cold and want, many of the men dying of hunger. They had also repeated conflicts with the natives, who are described as being of formidable stature, with red bodies and long hair, and animated with such implacable hatred against the Dutch, that they tore from their graves the bodies of some sailors, which they mangled or altogether removed. On the 3d of * It is thus noticed by M. de Freycinet, apparently on tbe authority ot Texeira :— " En 1595, Quiros, successeur de Mendana, flt la dicouverte de lile Hogoleu, qui d'abord regut des Espagnols le nom de Quirosa, puis celul de Torres, d'un capitaine de cette nation."— Voyage autonr da Monde. Historijaue, tome ii., p. 77. t Dalrymple, Hist. Coll., vol. i., p. 58, note. - . — ? ^ ^^* ^^ - 1 ^ at TH£ SIXTEENTH CENTURV. 73 1 now com* fter a stay ^hristoyal ; ;ourae two eople, who B the route , an island nd clothed At time to is very im- one of the Philippines ied on the ad.t liards were icean which jected ene- the nation by hopes of confined to bounds of mer tyrants purpose of jellan, and li and Peru. le Straits ; they were lered much rer. They described long hair, the Dutch, Le sailors, Ithe 3d of [authority of d£couverte liroaa, paia aatour da September, the squadron reached the South Sea, but was soon dispersed in a storm, and never again met. Sibald de Weert repassed the Straits, and, after seeing some of the islands discovered by Davis, and which now received the name of Sibald de Weert, brought home to the Maes, in July, 1600, the only ship that returned to Holland. Dirck Gherritz, in the yacht commanded by him, was driven to 64° south lati- tude, where he got sight of land, supposed to be the South Shetland Isles.* An Englishman>_named ,!Williain-Adaiy|8, actedagrchiflLjMlQLiflJhe^flfipdiQii^And the vc*""! m h^hj ^Ii ^'^^'"Jlflti atfl^tl gyST *lft th^- *'r"*^*^ flf Jgyy^-atafira' tl^gYjyerej det ained., bu tkj pdly ]treated. Adams built two ships for the" empmr, aiioEecame so great a favourite, that he granted him a living *' like unto a lordship in England, with eightie or ninetie husbandmen" for servants; but he failed to obtain permission to return home, though he greatly desired to " see his poore wife and children, according to conscience and na- ture.^t Finding that he could not prevail for himself, he in terceded for his companions, who, being allowed to depart, joined a Dutch fleet under General Matelief. Their captain was killed in an engagement with the Portuguese off Malacca, after which all trace of them is lost. News of the death of Adams, at Firando in Japan, was brought to England in, 1621. Almost contemporaneously with this expedition, some Dutch merchants fitted out four ships under Olivier Van Noort, who sailed from Goree on the 13th September, 1598, with objects similar to those contemplated by De Weert. A voyage of a year and seven days brought them to Port Desire, where they careened their three vessels, having previously burnt one as unserviceable ; and, according to Purchas, they took in this place penguins, to the number of " 60,000, being as bigge as geese, with egges innumerable, which proved very refresUng to the diseased.''^ Some natives being observed on the north shore, the general landed with twenty men, and as the savages had disappeared they proceeded into the country. Five sailors left in charge of the boats streggled to some dis" * This fact seems to hav« been little regarded, anJ d'^es not affect thcf merit of Captain Smith's diaooyery in 1818. t " William Adams—bis Voy ve by the Magellan Straits to Japan^ written in two letters by biroselfo/'—Purchao, vol. i , p. 128. 1 Purchas, vol. i., p. 78. G 74 FROM MAOBLLAN TO THE END tance; upon which about thirty Patagonians, tall, fierce^ tawny, and *' painted to the degree of terror," attacked them, murdered three, and wounded another with an arrow. By the time the general and his party returned, the assailants had all fled, and none were again seen near the place. After entering the Straits, the ships were approached from the south coast by a single man, wno was pursued and ineffectual- ly fired at. A more convenient opportunity, as the Dutch- men conceived, for revenging the death of their three comrades occurred at the smaller of the Penguin Islands. As the boats neared the land, about forty natives, thinking they came in search of the birds which abound there, threw some from the top of a cliff, made signs for them not to land, and discharged arrows when these intimations were disregarded. The Hol- landers vfexe not slow to retaliate with musketry ; which soon drove the savages from the rock. I'hey again rallied, how- ever, on the side of a hill at the mouth of a cavern, and fought with the utmost determination until the destructive fire of the Dutch left not ono man alive. In the interior of the grotto were found huddled together the women and children ; mothers had placed their own bodies as a protection before their offspring, and many of both were wounded. The inva- ders committed no further outrage, except carrying off four boys and two girls. One of the former having been taught to speak Dutch, afterward informed his captors tnat they had ex- terminated the males of a whole tribe — a deed which, as it is related without any expressions of regret or pity, was proba- bly never regarded by the perpetrators as being in the least more atrocious than if they had cut down so many trees for the use of their squadron. Sibald de Weert's ship was seen in the Straits, and that commander made a request to be sup- plied with some biscuit ; but his cbuntryman coolly answered, that he had no more than was sufiicient for his own use, and if he should exhaust his stores, this was not a part of the world where bread could be purchased. Along the west coast of South America some prizes of lit- tle consequence were made, and when near the equator they stood across towards the Philippines. At Guahan, in the La- drones, about 200 canoes came off to barter, the people in them shouting, " Hierro, hicrro !" (iron, iron !) and in their eagerness' oversetting each other*s boats — a catastrophe which occasioned much confusion, but no loss of life, as they were if' OF THE SIXTEENTH CENTURY. 76 all expert swimmers. The Dutch did not find them honourable in their transactions, as they covered baskets of shells with a thin layer of rice at top, and, if they had an opportunity, pulled a sword from the scabbard, and leaping into the sea, eluded, by diving, the bullets of the enraged owners. The women were no less expert in such exercises than the men, as was ascertained by dropping bits of iron, which they fetched up from the bottom. Thence Van Noort proceeded in a leisurely manner, capturing trading vessels, burning villages, and carrying off provisions as occasion served. His force was now reduced to two ships, the Mauritius and Eendracht. He learned from some Chinese that the capital of the Spanish set- tlements was well fortified, and the harbour sufficiently pro- tected. He therefore anchored off the entrance of the bay, to intercept the craft bound thither. After some time, the colonists sailed out to attack them ; when their admiral, De Morga, confident in a large superiority of numbers, ran di- rectly aboard of the Mauritius, and, getting possession of the deck, pulled down the flag. The Hollanders, however, con- tinued to fight, though in a skulking manner, when Van Noort, tired of this tedious and ineffectual warfare, told his men, that if they did not come out and encounter the enemy more vigorously, he would set fire to the magazine and blow up the ship. They did so accordingly, and drove the Spaniards back into their own vessel, which, having been damaged in board- ing, soon after went down. Most of the seamen were saved by the country boats ; but numbers also were shot, knocked on the head, or killed with pikes by the Dutch, who refused quarter. The Eendracht, seeing the colours of the Mauritius lowered, and thinking the captain-general had surrendered, took to flight, but was pursued and captured ; upon which the prisoners, being conveyed to Manilla, were immediately exe- cuted as pirates. "Without any further adventure of conse- quence, and having added nothing to the knowledge of the South Sea, Van Noort brought his ship to anchor before the city of Amsterdam on the 26th of August, 1601. This was the first circumnavigation performed by the Dutch, and was remarkable for the rigour with which discipline was enforced. In many of the Spanish expeditions mutinies broke out which could not be subdued without the sacrifice of sev- eral lives ; but here, although a spirit of insubordination was repeatedly displayed, it seems to have been uniformly T ' 76 FROM MAGELLAN TO THE END 1^ checked before spreading to any considerable extent. Indi« viduals who had been found guilty were put ashore at various points ; and, among others, the second in command was left in Patagonia with a little bread and wine. Every thing of this nature was done with the sanction of a council of war/ whose sentences were occasionally marked by no little sever- ity : in one case they caused a seaman's hand to be pinned to the mast with a knife, where ho was condemned to ^remain till he could release himself by slitting it open. This cruel punishment was formerly usual in cases whero an assault had been committed upon the pilot or commander. The voyage of Van Noort closes the long list of enterprises made in the sixteenth century ; and, before passing on to the events of the seventeenth, it may not be improper briefly to glance at the progress of discovery among the islands and along the ooasts of the South Sea since the time when Vasco Nunez, from the mountain-peak of Darien, beheld " below him extended a vast chaos of rock and forest, and green sa- vannas and wandering streams, while at a distance the waters of the promised ocean glittered in the morning sun.^f The continent of America, constituting the western boundary of this vast ocean, had already been explored from the white "■ Burney (Chron. Hist. Discov., vol. ii., p. 209) says, it does not ap- pear wbocnmposed this tribunal ; but theoriginnl account or the voyage mentions that the " council of war" gave a judgment which it also at- tributes to the " general and his officers." This makes it sufficiently plain of whom the council in a Dutch fleet consisted ; and further, one of the letters uf William Adams states, that all the pilots in the squadron expreraed in the council an opinion which so displeased the captains that they excluded them for the ftiture (torn their aeliberations.— Purchas, vol. i., p. 129. t Voyages of the Companions of Columbus, p. 173. Washington Ir- ving has described this event, '' one of the most beautiAiI and striking incidents in the history of the New World," with even more than his usual elegance. It is in itself so picturesque as to be barely susceptible pf Airther embellishment flrom poetry, though Mr. Irving considers that the fate of Niinez " might flimish a theme of wonderAil interest for a poem or a drama." liis great discovery has been happily alluded to in a beautiful sonnet by a young poet, who, however, has confounded him with the conqueror of Mexico : — « Then felt I like some watcher of the skies When a new planet swims into his ken, Or like stout Cortex, when with eagle eyes He stared at the Pacific, and all his men Looked at each other with a wild surmise, /i^ |{.v^ ?■;< , ^ilept, HpQn a peak in parien," . ?V- OF THE SIXTEENTH CENTURY. 77 cliffs of New Albion, in 48^' north latitude, to Cape Pilaroi on Tierra del Fuego, in 64° south. Some imperfect knowl- edge had been obtained of lands even still farther south: Drake had seen the promontory which afterward received the dreaded name of Cape Horn, and the Dutch had descried the bleak islands now called New South Shetland. Magellan had laid open the strait which bears his name, and was then looked on as the only entrance from the Atlantic into the South Sea. Along the coast had been discovered several isl- ands, the principal of which were Chiloe, Mocha, Mas-afuera, Juan Fernandez, San Felix, San Amber or Ambrosio, Lobos, Los Galapagos, Cocos, San Tomas, and the Pearl Islands. The eastern boundary of the South Sea was less accurately known. Yet on that side the Japan Islands, Formosa, the Philippines or A^rchipelago of St. Lazarus, Borneo, the Mo- luccas, Papua or New Guinea, had all been more or less mi- Uutcly examined, and might be held to define with sufficient accuracy the eastern limits of the Pacific, from the latitude of 40° north to that of 10° on the opposite side of the equator. Southward of this all was unknown and unexplored ; and the geographers of the period, bold in their ignorance, delineated the capes, the gulfs, the promontories, bays, islands, and coast of a great continent extending from the vicinity of New Guinea to the neighbourhood of Tierra del Fuego, under the name of terra australis nondum coonita. Of the in- numerable clusters of islands with which the South Sea is studded, very few had been at this time discovered. Las Desventuradas, the Ladrones or Marians, the Sequeira or Pclew, and several others of the Carolines ; the Islands of San Bernardo, Las Marquesas, Solitaria, the Solomons, Santa Cruz, and a few smaller groups, were all th.it were known of those countries and islands, the extent and number of which have at length claimed for them the rank of a fifth division of the globe. During this period the earth had been sailed round four times. Of these circumnavigations, the first was effected by Spaniards under a Portuguese commander ; the second and the third by the English ; and the fourth by the Dutch. 8 78 CIRCUMNAVIOATIONS AND DISCOVERIES If CHAPTER IV. Circumnavigations and Discoveries of the Seventeenth Cen- tury. Voyage of Quiros.— La Sagitaria-— Australia del Espirltu Santo.— Luis Vaez de Torres discovers the Strait between New Holland and New Ouinea.— CircumnaTigation oT Spilbergen.— Of Scliouten and Le Maire.— Discovery of Staten Land and Cape Horn.— Cocoa, Good Hope, and Horn Islands.— New Ireland — Expedition of the Nodala.— Discovery of ^ew Holland by Dirck Haticha.- Circumnavigation of (he Nassau I^'Ieet.- Voyase of Tasman.— Discovery of Van Diemen's Land, of New Zealand and the Friendly Islands.— Voyages of Hen< drick Brower and La Roche.— Expeditions of the Bucaniera.- Dis- covery of Davis' or Easter Island.— Voyage of Strong, and Discovery of Falkland Sound,- Retrospect. There had long been an abatement in the ardour of that passion for adventure which formerly inflamed the hearts of the Spanish nation, afforded to her chivalrous youth so many harvests of gain, and extended her sceptre over regions of great extent, wealth, and beauty. Avarice had become sated with the gold already obtained, or, chilled by the frequent dis- appointment of its eager hopes, had become suspicious and distrustful of future promises. Enthusiasm had been quenched by the misfortunes of those whose beginning had been the most prosperous and seemed most certain of success. Reli- gious zeal had found, in the lands already explored, ampler bounds than it could occupy. National policy required rather the permanent security and improvement oi conquered coun-^ tries, than a search after new regions. There had even arisen a superstitious feeling against the discovery of the South Sea, as if it had been an impious intrusion into the secrets of na-f ture. The untimely fate of all who had been principally con? ccmed in this great event was now recollected. It was told, that Vasoo Nunez had been beheaded — ^that Magellan had fallen by the hands of the infidels->-that his companion, the astrolo- ger Ruy Falero, had died raving mad — and that the seaman ^e Lepe, who had first descried the strait from the topmast, bad ab»ndoi)od Christ to foUow Mahomet. But the spirit OF THE SEVENTEENTH CENTURY. 79 fvhich had glowed so long was not wholly dead, and we have yet to record the actions of one of the most distinguished nav- ^tors whom Spain has produced. Undaunted by the hardships and ill success of the last voy- age of Alvaro de Mendana, the pilot, Pedro Fernandez de Quiros, returned to Peru, eager to engage in fresh adventures, and, as one of his memorials expresses it, " to plough up the waters of the unknown sea, and to seek out the undiscovered lauds around the antarctic pole — the centre of that horizon."* Arguing upon grounds which were received by many, even down to our own day, he asserted the existence of a vast southern tontinent, or at least of a mass of islands, the antip- odes of the greater part of Europe, Africa, and Asia. The viceroy, to whom he detailed his views, heartily approved of the project ; but (he limits of his authority hindered him from furnishing means for its execution, and he therefore sent him to Spain with letters of recommendation to the king and his min- isters. These were successful. Quiros left the court " with the most honourable schedules which had ever passed the coun- cil of state," and, arriving at Lima, and '' throwing into oblivion all that he had endured for eleven years in the pursuit of so important an object,"t he began to prepare for his long-cher- ished enterprise. Having built two vessels and a zabra (a kind of launch), the strongest and the best armed, says Torquemada, of any that had been seen on either sea, on the 21st of December, 1605, he set sail from the port of Callao, having under him, as sec- ond in command, Luis Vaez de Torres, t Six Grey or Fran- * Dalrymple, Hist. Coll., vol. I., p. 98. The chief authorities Tor the voy- age of Quiros are his own memorials (which are inserted i i Dalrymple, vol. i., p 145-174 ; and in Purchas, vol. iv., p. 1427), together with the re- lations of Figueroa and Torquemada (Monarchia Indiana, Seville. 1615, and Madrid, 1723), both translated by Dalrymple, vol. i., p. 95-144. In Barney's Cliron. Hist. Discov., vol. ii , p. 467-478, Appendix, No. i., was printed, for the first time, the " Relation of Luis Vaez de Torres, con- cerning the discoveries of Quiros as his almirante. Dated Manilla, 12tti July, 1607 i" translated by Mr. Dalrymple (torn a Spanish MS. in bis possession. t Torqnemada. Dalrymple, Hist. Coll., vol. i., p. 104. i Cook, in the introduction to his second voyage, Alls into the singu- lar mistake of representing Torres as commandei of the expedition, and Quiros only as pilot. Voyage towards the South Pole, and round the World, In the years 1772'-1775. 3d edition. London, 1779.— Gen. Introdit p. xii. 60 CIRCUMNAVIGATIONS AND DISCOVERIES ciscan Friars accompanied the expedition ; and, in conformity with their wonted respect for rehgion, guns were fired on the 85th during the day, and the ships were illuminated during the flight, in honour of the solemn festival of the Nativity. On reaching the latitude of 26° south, Quiros considered it prop- er to pursue a more northerly track, in opposition to the ad- vice of Torres, who thought that by advancing to 30° south there was greater probability of finding the desired continent. On the 26th of January, 1600, between the parallels of 24° and 25° south latitude, and 1000 leagues west from Peru, land was seen. It was a low fiat island, with a sandy su*-face, here and there diversified by a fc trees, though apparently without inhabitants, and it receiv, the name of La Encamacion. Three days after anciher island was discovered; it was " plain and even a-top," might contain about twelve leagues, and was C8lled Soil Juan Bautista.^ From this Quiros sailed in a northwesterly direction, and on the 4th of February saw an island or group of islands, encircled by a reef and having a lagoon in the ^lentre. This land, which was about thirty leagues in circuit, received the name of Santelmo. The next day four other islands were seen ; they were barren and unin- habited, and resembled in all respects those previously discov- ered. They were called Los Quatros Coronadas ; and two of a similar character, observed in the vicinity, were named San Miguel Archa)igel and Conversion de San Pablo. On the 9th of February an island was seen in the northeast, and, from the circumstance of being the tenth which had met their eyes, received the appellation of La Decena. It appeared to be like those previously inspected, and the ships passed on. The next day a sailor on the topmast gave the cry of " Land ahead !" to the great joy of all on board. " It was," says Torres, "a low island, with a point ''to the southeast which was covered with palm-trees ;"t and the columns of smoke which rose from different parts showed that it was inhabited. The zabra was directed to search for an anchorage, and, hav- ing found it in ten fathom^?, the boats were sent to eflfect a landing. About a hundred Indians were seen upon the beach * It may bo proper here to state, that the memorial of Torres hai pre- Borved a toiallj' different nomenclature of the linds from that given by Quiros, and that for obvious reasons we havs adopted the names bestowed by the latter. t Bumey, Cbron. Hist. Discov., vol. ii., p. 468. M OF TH~ "BVENTEENTH CENTURY. 81 making signs of joy ; but so great was the surf which broke upon the rocks, that the crews, with heavy hearts, abandoned their intention of landing, and resolved to row back to the ships. " They were thus returning quite disconsolate," says Torquemada, '' when a brave-spirited young man, Francisco Ponce, a native of Triana, slighting the danger, got up, say- ing, that if they should thus turn their faces from the firat perils which their fate presented, what hope could there be of success in the event \" and with this threw himself into the sea and swam ashore. The islanders welcomed him with much apparent affection, frequently kissing his forehead, and, encouraged by the example now set them, some others leaped into the sea and swam to land. The natives were in colour mulattoes, well limbed, and of good carriage; they were naked, and armed,- some with lances of thick wood, burnt at the ends and about twenty-seven palms in length, some vfith swords of the wood of the palm-tree, and not a few with great clubs. They lived in thatched houses, situated by the margin of the sea among groves of palms. A person who appeared to be a chief had on his head a kind of crown made of small black feathers, but so fine and soft that they looked like silk. In one of the woods was discovered what seemed to be an altar, rudely formed of stones ; and " our people," says the Spanish chronicler, *' solicitous where the Prince of Darkness had dwelt to place the royal standard whereby the Prince of Light gave life to us, with Christian zeal cc* down a tree with their knives, which they formed into a cross and fixed in the middle of the place."* The island was found to be divided by a narrow isthmus which was overflowed at high water ; its latitude was between 17° 40' and 18° 30' south, and its lon- gitude, as computed from the different accounts, has been fixed by Bumey at 147° 2' west from Greenwich.! This dis- covery was named La Sagitaria, and has, by the most emi-r nent geographers, been generally considered as identical with Ottiheite. This opinion has. been founded on the coincidence of position, on the similarity of the isthmus, on the resem- blance in extent and form, and, above all, on the circmnstance that no other island, widely as the Pacific has now beeu searched, is known to which the description will at all apply, * Torquemada. Dalrymple, Hist. Col)., vol. i., p. 113, t Cljron. Hist. Discov., vol. ii., p. 2SSi. If S2 CIRCUMNAVIGATIONS AND DISCOVERIES Hi/ ,.? \ \ But it must not be concealed that there are many and mate- rial objections to this theory. Torres expressly describes it as a "low island" — a remark which is quite irreconcilable with the mountain peaks of Otaheite ; and even the account of the isthmus, in so far as regards its being overflowed at high water, does not agree. The other discrepances arc, that the shores of Sagitaria afforded no anchorage, and that its smaller peninsula must have been at least eight Spanish leagues in extent — facts which are altogether inapplicable to Otaheite.* Little weight, however, has been given to these remarks, and the identity of the two islands is now generally admitted ; though, when all circumstances are considered, doubts may still be entertained as to the soundness of the conclusion. On the 12th of February, Quinas resumed his voyage, and, while yet in sight of La Sagitaria, saw a very low island, which he named La P^ugitiva. On the 21st, another discovery was made of a plain and uninhabited spot, which was called El Peregrino. About this time a mutiny broke out on board his ship, headed by the chiejf piloi ; it being the intention of the disaffected to make themselves masters of the vessel and sail in a direct course to the Philippines. The only punish- ment which Quiros inflicted was to send the pilot as a pris- oner on board the vessel commanded by Torres. On the 2d of March, a level island was seen to the westward ; and on a nearer approach it was found to be inhabited. The intercourse with the natives was unfortunately hostile, and much blood was shed ; but the beauty of their forms so struck the Span- iards, that they gave them the appellation of La Gente Her- mosa. There is reason to believe that this is the same with the San Bernardo of Mendana. Quiros continued to sail westward in the parallel of 10° south upwards of thirty days. Towards the end of that period frequent signs of land were observed, and on the afternoon of the 7th of April a high and black coast was discovered. They failed to reach it, however, before the 9th, when it was found to be inhabited : many houses were descried on the beach and among the woods ; and on a small islet, which had been converted into a rude fort, were about seventy dwellings. ♦ Wales's Remarks on Mr. Foster's Account of Captain Cook's Last Voyage round tbe World in the years 1772-1775. London, 1778. P 24,25,26. .(*»•- ^ RIES OF THE SEVENTEENTH CENTURY. 83 and mate- escribes it iconcilable le account rflowed at inces arc, , and that It Spanish }licablc to 1 to these generally onsidered, iss of the ^age, and, w island, discovery as called on board tention of essel and r punish- 8 a pris- n the 2d md on a crcourse h blood e Span- te Her- ne with of 10° period icon of )vered. it was on the ch had lings. 's Last 8. P This island fortress was taken possession of by the Spaniards without opposition — the vicinity of Santa Cruz, aikl a knowl- edge of Mendana's transactions there, having taught the sava- ges the fatal efficacy of firearms. The appellation of this country was Taumaco, and its inhabitants were apparently of different races — some having a light copper-colour, with long hair — others resembling mulattoes — while a third class had the black skin and frizzled hair of the Oceanic negro. Their arms were bows and arrows, and they had large sailing canoes. From the chief, whose name was Tumay, Quiros obtained in- formation of upwards of sixty islands, and, among others, of a large country called Manicolo. He determined to sail in quest of these, and on the 19th quitted Taumaco ; and, changing his course to the southward, reached an island which, in appear- ance and in inhabitants, resembled the one he had just left, and was by the natives denominated Tucopia. The voyagers still proceeded southward till they passed the latitude of 14°, at which point they pursued a westerly direction ; and after one day's sailing, discovered a volcano surrounded by land, about three leagues in circuit, well wooded, and inhabited by black people with large beards. When near this island, which was named Nuestra Senora de la Luz, land was perceived to the westward ; while in the south, and " towards the S. E." was seen " other land still larger, which seemed to have no end, and was full of great mountains." After some delibera- tion it was resolved to make for the island in the west, which received the name of Santa Maria ; but, after touching there, Quiros determined to steer towards the high regions that lay to the south. On the 2d of May, he moved the vessels into a large bay, and, believing that he had at length discovered the great southern continent, gave it the name of Australia del EspiRiTU Santo. The bay, in honour of the festival on which they had en- tered it, was named San Felipe y Santiago ; while a port far within, where they anchored, was called La Vera Cruz. This harbour, which could have contained above a thou- sand ships, was situated between two streams, one of which was named .Jordan and the other Salvador. Of these rivers, one was equal in size to the Guadalquivir at Seville. " The strands of this bay," says Torquemada, " are broad, long, and clear ; the sea is here still and pleasant, lor al- though the winds blow strong, within the bay the water IS IT Tonv^wn^ 1^'"*!' : t > • # ( -i 111 i I 84 CIRCUMNAVIGATIONS AND DISCOVERIES rW- ■ scarce moved. There are in all parts in front of the sea please ant and agreeable groves, extending to the sidss of mauj mountains which were in sight ; and also from the top of one, to which our people climbed, were perceived at a dis tance extremely fertile valleys, plain and beautiful ; and vari ous rivers winding among the green mountains. The whole is a country which, without doubt, has the advantage over those of America, and the best of the European will be well if it is equal."* — " From the breaking of the dawn,** says Quiros, " is heard tlirough all the neighbouring wood a very great harmony of thousands of different birds, some to ap- pearance nightingales, blackbirds, larks, and goldfinches, and infinite numbers of swallows, pnd besides them many other kinds of birds, even the chirping of grasshoppers and crickets. Every morning and evening were enjoyed sweet scents waft- ed from all kinds of flowers, among them that of orange- flowers and sweet basil. "t As the boats rowed towards tiMs second Eden, the islanders crowded to the beach, and en- deavoured, by friendly signs, to prevent their landing. The Spaniards, however, leaped on shore ; upon which a native chief drew a line on the ground with his bow, and made signs that the strangers should not pass beyond it. But Luis Vaez de Torres, thinking this would appear cowardly, stepped across the boundary, and strife instantly ensued. A flight of arrows on the one side was responded to by a discharge of musketry on the other, which killed the chief and several of his followers. From this time all peace was at an end ; the savages rejected every offer of conciliation, and by sudden ambuscade and open attack sought revenge for the blood of their leader. This ceaseless enmity, and the failure of provis- ions, determined Quiros to quit the place before a month had elapsed. He had, however, previbusly taken possession of the country, in the name of the king, and founded a city under the title of La Nueva Jerusalen. The natives are described as black, corpulent, and strong. Their houses are built of wood and thatched, and they have plantations enclosed with palisades. They are possessed of musical instruments re- sembling the flute and drum ; they manufacture some sort of I * Torquemada. Dalrymple, Hist. Coll., vol. i., p. 137 t " Relation of a Memorial presented by Captain Pedro Fernandez de Quires.'^ Palrymple, Hist. Coll., vol. i., p. 170. OF THE SEVENTEENTH CENTURY. 85 Earthen vessels, and build large canoes adapted to Icng voy* ages. In endeavouring to quit the harbour of San Felipe y Santi- ago, much stormy weather was encountered, and for some rea- sons, which cannot now be ascertained, Quiros parted com- pany with his consort. After a vain search for the Island of Santa Cruz, he agreed, in compliance with the opinion of his officers, to sail for Mexico, where he arrived in the middle of October. Still thirsting after discovery and adventure, he once more repaired to the court of Spain, and continued there several years, beseeching the throne for assistance to pursue the search of new lands. So great was his importunity, that he is said to have presented no fewer than fifty memorials. One of these, after discussing in glowing language the beauty and fer- tility of the Australia, thus concludes : — '* Acquire, sire, since you can, acquire heaven, eternal fame, and that new world with all its promises. And since there is none who solicits of your majesty the rewards for the glad tidings of so great and sig- nal a blessing of God, reserved for your happy time, I, sire, supplicate them, and as such my despatch, for the galleons are ready, and I have many places to go to, ard much to pro- vide and to do. If Christoval Colon's conioctures did make him pertinacious, what I have seen, v.'hat I have felt, and what I offer, must make me so importunate,"* The solici- tations of Quiros were at last crowned with success, and in 1614 he set out on his way to Lima, in order to arrange another expedition. But this gratification < he was doomed never to enjoy he died, while on his joumc) , at Panama. We now return to Torres, who, during two weeks after the departure of Quiros, remained in the Bay of San Felipe y Santiago. On leaving this he sailed along the west side o^ the Australia del Espiritu Santo, which he found to be well watered and possessed of many ports. He also ascertained that it was no contmeiit, but an island. He continued to steer to the southwestward, till he reached 21° of south latitude, when he changed hij* course to the northeast, and in lli° encountered what he beheved to be the eastern extrem- ity of New Guinea. Being unable to weather this point, he directed his course to the westward, along the southern coasts, * Dalrympk. ILbU Coll., voL i., p. 173, 174. H 86 CIRCUMNAVIGATIONS AND DISCOVERIES 1 S t 1 1 and having sailed through the strait between New Holland and New Guinea, which he was the first to penetrate, arrived at Manilla in May, 1607. Holland was now rising fast in the scale of maritime im- portance, and gradually assuming that station which the Spaniards had so long occupied. Following the example first set by the English, the Dutch had already sent two fleets- into the South Sea, as is related in the preceding chapter ; and, in pursuing the course of the narrative, we now reach a period at which they hold the most distinguished place in the history of navigation and discovery. The cession of the Mo- luccas by Spain to Portugal put an end for some time to the disputes between these powers in the Pacific, and the union of the two crowns in 1581 prevented any renewal of the con- tests. The islands themselves, however, never wholly sub- mitted to the dominion of either of those masters ; and when the Dutch, in 1599, first visited Ternate,- they found en- couragement to establish a factory ; where, from that time^ they steadily pursued plans for securing an exclusive trade^ Their East India Company (established in 1602) fitted out six vessels, which, under George Spilbergen, sailed from the Texel on the 8th of August, 1614, destined to penetrate through the Straits of Magellan to the South Sea, there to cruise against the Spaniards, and to strengthen the power of their countrymen in the Spice Islands. They wore furnished equally for war or for trade ; and so ably was the expedition conducted, that the five largest vessels reached the Moluccas in safety, after defeating Roderigo de Mendoza with a greatly superior force near the American coast. The Peruvian ad- miral had boasted that he would make prisoners or slay the whole of his enemies :' — " Two of my ships," he said, " would take all England ; how much mOre those Hens of Hol- land, after so long a journey has spent and wasted them !"•' In the encounter, the Low Country warriors betrayed nothing of the spirit of the fowl to which they were insultingly com- pared ; but the arrogant governor did not survive to encounter the ridicule which he had justly merited, for his vessel, after escaping from the conflict, went down at sea. It was not to be expected that a Dutchman, whose orders were to employ himself in fighting and traflic, should deviate from the accus- * Furcbas, vol. i., p. 81. ERIES ew Holland ate, arrived aritime im- which the le example I; two fleets- g chapter; ow reach a lace in the of the Mo- ime to the the union of the con- holly sub- and when found en- that time^ ive trade, bed out six from the penetrate there to power of furnished xpedition Vloluccas a greatly ivian ad- slay the " would of Hol- lem I"' nothing ly com- icounter el, after s not to employ Icaccus- OF THE SEVENTEENTH CENTURY. 87 tomed track in search of new lands, or spend much time in investigating the character and manners of the people; his voyage accordingly presents nothing that is now interesting in either of these respects, though the survey of the Straits of Magellan and of Manilla furnished to mariners better charts of these channels than any before executed. On the 29th March, 1616, Spilbergen arrived at the Moluccas, and till the end of the year continued occupied with the affairs of his employers. He seems then to have left his own vessels, and, coming home in command of the Amsterdam and Zealand, arrived on the 1st July, 1617. By the charter of the Dutch East India Company, no other merchants were allowed to pass round the Cape of Good Hope or through the Straits of Magellan to the Moluccas — a prohibition supposed to be sufficient to secure to that body an exclusive trade in the spices. Many English pilots were, however, about this time in the service of the United Prov- inces ; and by their means, it is probable, was the fact made known, that Drake had discovered an open sea to the south of Tierra del Fuego. Accordingly, about the year 1613, some merchants, proceeding on this ground, imagined that a new passage might be found to India, and that they might thus acquire a right to participate in the gainful traffic to these regions. An expedition was accordingly planned, chiefly, as appears, by Isaac le Maire, a wealthy citizen of Amsterdam, and by William Schouten, a native of Hoom, and an expe- rienced mariner. Their object was not openly avowed : they obtain<%d from the states-general the privilege of making the first foiur voyages to the places which they might discover, and formed themselves into an association under the name of the Southern Company ; but, as the destination of the vessels was not disclosed to the seamen, who were engaged to sail whith- ersoever their commanders chose, the other merchants were displeased because they could not penetrate the designs of their neighbours, and those who engaged in the enterprise were derisively denominated Gold Seekers.* * Tt ia proper to observe, that the details or the voyage or Schouten and le Maire are in many instances involved in doubt. Two accounts of their voyage were published shortly after its ronipletion, written by the lespective (Viends of the two navigators, and the discrepances be- tween these narratives, though they do not afluct the more important events cf the voyage, involve the minuter details in mach perplexity. p'- 41 88 CIRCUMNAVIGATIONS AND DISCOVERIES ! i i, \\ r \ M I Schouten, accompanied by Jacob le Maire, the son of Isaac, in the capacity of supercargo, sailed from the Texel on the 14th of June, 1615, with two ships, the Eendrachtand Hoom. It was not till the 25th of October, after they had crossed the line, that the crews were informed of the inten- tions of their leaders ; and when told that they were steering by a new passage to the south of the Straits of Magellan, for the " Terra Australis" (probably the Australia del Espiritu Santo of Quiros), some of them, that they might not forget the name, wrote it in their caps with chalk. The ships were conducted into Port Desire, where, during the process of ca- reening, the Hoom was accidentally burnt. On shore were found multitudes of birds like lapwing?. A man, standing in one spot, could with his hands reach fifty-four nests, each containing three or four eggs. Thousands of these were car- ried on board and used as food, to the no small saving, doubt- There is sometimes a difference between their reckonings ortVom twenty- five to rorty five minutes or latitude ; they vary in their dates to the ex- tent or eight or nine days ; and even while they agree as to the sub- stance of events, they differ as to the order of their orcarrence. In the following account, we have endeavoured to reconcile their conflicting statements so far as })088ible ; and where that was not practicable, have generally given preference to the authority of the first-published ac- count, the Journal of the Voyage of JVilliam Schovten, which ap- peared at Amsterdam in 1617, in the Dutch and French languages, bear-* Ing in the latter the title of " Journal ou Description du Merveilleux Voy- age de Guillaume Schouten." It was translated into Latin by De Bry in 1610, and an English translation appeared at London in the same year, and afterward in Purchas, vol. i., p. 88-107. The second narrative of the voyage was printed at Amsterdam in 1623, under the title of "Journal et Miioir de la Navigation Australe de Jacques Le Maire, Chef et Con- ducteur de deux Navires." In addition to these have appeared various other relations, to which it is not necessary to advert, as they are of no authority, and contain nothing but what will be found in the two original authorities. But ono exception must be made from this judgment^ — the "Navigation Australe par Jac. le Maire et par W. Corn. Schouten," said to be compiled from the Journal of Adrian Claesz, and published in the *' Recueil des Voyages d I'Etablissement de la Comp. des Indes Orient." Translations of the Journals of 3chouten and of Le Maire, and of parts of that attributed to Claesz, are inserted in Dairymple's Hist. Coll., vol. ii.,p. 1-64. An able and critical narrative will be found in Burney's valuable work. This author, though he seems frequently to have pre- ferred the account given by the friends of Le Maire, states with much candour that, " on comparison, the fact appears that the greater portion of the Navigation Australe de Le Maire is taken from the Journal du Merveilletuc Voyage de W. Schouten, and that the editor has endeav- oured to disguise the plagiarism by verbal alterations,"— Chron, Hist piaeov., vol. ii., p. 360. OF THE SEVENTEENTH CENTURY. 89 less, of the five cheeses, and other provisions, which had been apportioned to each sailor for the voyage.^ On the main land some pools of fresh vviiter were found, by following the direction in which certain animals with long necks, supposed to be harts, but probably horses, were observed daily to re- pair for the purpose, as was rightly conjectured, of drinking. On the summits of hills and on elevated rocks were observed piles of stones, which some of the people had the curiosity to remove ; and beneath, without any pit being dug, were found human skeletons, several of which, it is alleged, meas- ured ten or eleven feet in length, and " the sculls," it is said in the description which accompanies the plates inserted in the " Journal du Merveilleux Voyage de Schouten," " we could put on our heads in the manner of helmets." On the 13th of January, 1616, the Eendracht left Port De- sire,t and stood to the southward. On the 18th they saw the islands of Sibald de Weert (the Falklands), and two days after, at noon, passed the latitude of the entrance of the Straits of Magellan. It was now that the most critical part of their voyage commenced, and the winds, soundings, and appear- ances of the land and water were observed and noted with the greatest minuteness. On the 24th they came to the most * ** It was ordered that every man should have a can of beere a day, foure pound or biaket, and halfe a (tound of buKer (besides sweet suet) a weeke, and five uheese^ fbr the whole voyage." — Purcbas, vol. i., p.8S. \ When $=!ir John Narborough lay at Port Desire in 1670, be discovered a relic or the visit of Schouten and Le Maire. " One or my men," he writes, " found a piece of sheet lead, which bad this inscription engraven on it :•— 'MDCXV. EEN 8CHIP ENDB CBN JAOHT GENAEMT EENDRACHT EN HOOKN GKARRIVKKRT DKGN VllI DECEMBER VBRTROKKN MET EEN BCHIP D'BKNDRACHT DEN X.JANUARY: MDCXVI. C. I. LE MAIRE. 8. W. C. SCHOVrS. AR. CLASSEN. I. C. SCHOVTS. CL. IAN8BN BAM.' (t. e. mdcxv. a ship and a yacht, named Eendracht and Hoorn, arrived here on the Sth Uecember. Departed with the ship Eendracht 10th January, mdcxvi.) In a hole of the |)ost lay a tin box, with a sheet of wriiren paper enclosed in it, but so eaten by the rust of the box that it could not be read. We found several pieces uf board of the wreck of some ship that had hee>i burnt."— Journal kept by Captain John Narborough. Burney, Chron. Hist. Discov., vol. iii., p. 334, 335. These fragments must have belonged to the Hoorn, which, as has been mentioned, acci- dentally took fire while being careened. There is a discrepance of three days between the date of departure in the inscription and in the accounts of the voyage. H2 i r 90 CIRCUMNAVIGATIONS AND DISCOVERIES ^- i :• ii' < if\ r \ I i ! ) i'- I easterly point of Tierra del Fuego, and saw another country still farther in the same direction, which they named Staten Land, in honour of the States of Holland. Passing through the channel, which afterward in a meeting of their council was entitled the Strait of Le Maire, the coast on the left was found to diverge towards the east, while that on the right turned west southwest ; and the mariners knew they had a wide sea before them, the colour of the water being blue, and long waves coming from the southwest. At last, on the 30th, they passed the most southerly point of Tierra del Fuego, which was named Cape Horn or Hoom, in honour ol the town of Hoom in West Friesland, the birthplace ol Schouten. The land was high and hilly, covered with snow. In some parts of this ocean, whales were so numerous that the pilots were incessantly obliged to alter their course in or- der to avoid ruiming against them, while in others the sea- birds, unused to the sight of human beings, alighted in the ship and suffered themselves to be taken by the sailors. The weather was frequently tempestuous, and they never wanted rain or mist, snow or hail. On the 3d of February they were in 59° 30', their greatest southern latitude, from which, standing northwest, they reckoned on the 12th that they had again attained the parallel of the Straits of Magellan, and con- sequently had effected a new passage into the Pacific Ocean ; for joy of which, an allowance of three cups of wine was dealt out to all the men. At Juan Fernandez they missed the anchorage, but ob- tained a little water, and were most successful in their fish- ing, the bait being caught the moment it was dropped, so that those employed "continually without ceasing did nothing but draw up" bream and corcobados. From this island, in a course northwest by north, they crossed the southern tropic, then stood northwest as far as 18° of south latitude. On the 10th of April was discovered a circular strip of land fuU of trees, with sea-birds perched on the branches, the interior having the appearance of being overflowed at high water. No marks of inhabitants could be perceived, but three dogs were seen, which, as the Dutchmen allege, could neither bark nor growl ; and from this circumstance it was denominated Hon- den or Dog Island. On the 14th they came to another nar- row border well covered with wood, surrounding a salt-water lake in the middle, and styled it Sonder-grondt, or Bottom* n i^ERIES OF THE SEVENTEENTH CENTURY. 91 Jther country amed Staten sing through their council 1 the left was on the right V they had a ng blue, and last, on the f Tierra del in honour ol )irthplace ol I with snow, imerous that course in or- lers the sea- jhted in the lilors. The ever wanted sbruary they from which, lat they had m, and con- ific Ocean ; le was dealt |e, but ob- 1 their fish- led, so that id nothing island, in a lern tropic, ude. On >f land full he interior rater. No dogs were r bark nor ated Hon- lOther nar- salt-water Bottpm« less, because they failed to obtain soundings. A great num- ber of natives, of a copper colour, with long black hair fast- ened up behind, were seen ; some of whom pushed off in a canoe, and addressed themselves to the Dutch by signs and speeches, in which they became so emphatic as to overset their bark. Those on shore waved their garments and branches of trees, thereby inviting, as was supposed, the fltrangers to land. By-and-by their skiffs ventured nearer the ship, and one of them getting into the gallery, showed iliat he knew the value of iron, by drawing the nails from the rabin windows and concealing them in his hair. As it was understood that hogs and fowls were plentiful, a party went ashore in the boat for the purpose of trading ; but immediately ou their landing, about thirty islanders rushed from the woods and assaulted them. The discharge of three muskets soon put them to flight ; but from this inauspicious beginning it was thought needless to attempt any further to establish a friendly intercourse. The noses of these people are described as flat, " which," as Burney remarks, " is no part of the gen- eral character of the inhabitants of any of the islands at pres- ent known in the South Seas."* On the 16th, our naviga- tors filled four casks of water from an island resembling those previously visited, and which they named Waterlandt. Two days after, another being descried, some of the crew landed and entered a wood, where, seeing a native with what ap- peared to be a bow in his hand,t and having no arms them- selves, they hastened back to the ship covered with black flies, which infested all on board three or four days. The name of Vlieghen or Fly Island was in consequence bestowed on the place. On the 8th of May, when out of sight of land, an Indian vessel was observed standing to the north, across the course of the Eendracht, from which three guns were fired as a sig- nal that the other should lay to. It was strange that Schouten, . ^ { * Chron. Hist. Discov., vol. li., p. 381. t " They saw a savage who seemed to them to have a bow in his hand," says the Journal of Schouten ; and it is remarked, in the descrip- tion of an island subsequently visited (see below, p. 99), that *' these were the first bows we saw at the islands in the South Seas." The Navigation Australe of Le Maire speaks positively of having " perceived a savage man with his bow in his hand, as if to shoot f|sh." But the observations of modern navigators tend, without exception, to establisb the fact that bows and arrows ar« not in use on Fly Island. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) /. if 1.0 1.1 liilM 125 itt Ui §2.2 ^ Ijfi 12.0 IL25 i 1.4 FhotogFaphic Sciences Corporalion '^ v <^ 4 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 145M (716) S72-4503 ^ A .V* 4^ ^S CIRCUMNAVIGATIONS AND DISCOVERIES '■'1 Pi Mi yrho luust have been aware that firearms were entirely un- Imown to many of Uiese poor islanders, should have expected •uch a signal to be understood, or thought that, upon their fiuling to comply, he might justly use violence. The Indians at first paid no attrition to the summons, and on its repetition made every endeavour to escape. A boat was, however, low- ered with ten musketeers, who speedily out-manoeuvred the fugitives, and, when within half-range, mercilessly fired four ehots among them, by which Qne was wounded, and immedi- ately leaped into the sea. Fifteen or sixteen others, in terror, blackened their faces with ashes, threw overboard their mer- chandise, which consisted of small mats and some fowls, and committed themselves to the waves, one man carrying an in- fant with him. The Dutch found in the vessel eight wonwn with three children at the breast, and several others nine or ten years;pld, an aged man also, and the wounded youth who had returned on board ; but no weapons of any kind. When the canoe had been taken alongside of the Eendracht, the boat returned to the assistance of the Indians in the water, of whom only two were saved, who pointed downward, to signify that all the rest had gone to the bottom. They fell on their faces before their conquerors, kissing their feet and hands ; and on being presented with knives and beads, gave in return two mats and two coooanuts, although they had little provis- ions left for their own use. Their whole stock of fresh water being exhausted, they drank from the sea, and supplied their children with the same beverage. Towards evening, the In- dians were put on board their canoe, " that were welcome to their wives, which claspt them about the necks, and kissed them ;"* one of the women, however, Jippeared to be in much affliction, lamenting the loss of her husband. Their hopes of a prosperous trafilic being blasted^ by this cruel disaster, the savages now steered a course the reverse of that they had for- merly held, on their return, no doubt, to the place whence they had adventurously sailed, quitting sight of land without any of the aids which render such a navigation safe. On the 11th of May the ship anchored at Cocos Island, so named from the abundance of tiiat species of fruit : another isl- and lay about a league to the south southwest. Canoes soon flockad to the place, and by degrees a few of the natives ventured * Fnrobas, vol. i., p. M. OF THE SEVENTEENTH CENTURT. 93 1 on board, end being entertained with some tunes by a s€)bi^ who played on the fiddle, they danced and *< showed thema^Tfi joyful and delighted beyond measure.*' Numerous grpi^>8.' speedily resorted to the vessel, admiring every thing they saiv» and pilfering whatever they could carry off. " They wonderied at the greatnesse and strength of the shippe, and some of them, crept downe behind at the rother (rudder), under the ship? and knockt with stones upon the bottom thereof, to proove how fetrong it was."* They brought for traffic plenty of cocoas, bananas, yams, and some small hogs, which were purchased at an easy rate for old nails and beads ; and so eager were they, that those in the outer canoes secured their commodities in their teeth, and dived under the rest, endeavouring to cut them out from the advantage of l3ring closer to the ship. The king of the southern island had sent a present to the Eendracht, tnd received one in return. The next day he came with a largo assemblage of his people, ostensibly for trade, which tvas carried on as usual for some time ; but, on the striking of a drum, the whole of them, amounting to about 1000, set up a shout, and assailed the Hollanders with stones. The great guns and musketry soon dispersed these rude warriors in con- stemation, and Schouten set sail, naming their coimtry Verra- ders or Traitors' Island. The voyagers remarked among them one man perfectly white. On the 14th, in searching for anchorage near an island which they called Good Hope, from its 'ttrasenting a fair promise of supplying their want of fresh watoian affray took place with the natives ; for which reason they again thought it advisable to continue their course. On the 18th May they were in latitude 16° 6' south, and on this day a genentl council was held to decide on the future direction of their voyage. Schouten represented, that though they were now at least 1600 leagues westward from the coast of Peru, they had discovered no part of the Terra Austiulis, and that no indications even of its existence had yet been met with. There was, he stated, little likelihood of their success, and they had besides sailed much farther to the westward than was their original intention. The result of continuing in their present track, he said, must be that they would fall upon the southern coasts oi New Guinea, and in the event of their not finding a passage on that side of the island, they must vdthout doubt * Porcbas. vol.i.> p. 97. 94 CIRCUMNAVIGATIONS AND DISCOVERIES » f II i r K I |5 ^ I i be lost, as the constant trade-winds would altogether preclude their return to the eastward.* He bade them remember, also, that their store of victuals was but small, and that there was little prospect of increasing it ; and concluded by asking, if it were not better, considering all these things, to alter their coulee and to sail northward, thus passing by the upper shorea of New Guinea, and reach the Molucca Islands. This sug- gestion was at once adopted, and their line of motion change! to the north northwest. Towards evening of the next day they canie in sight of land, divided apparently into two islands, distant from each other about a cannon-shot. They directed, the ship towards them ; but, owing to contrary winds, it was not until the noon of the 2Ist that they got within a league's distance. About twenty canoes instantly came off, filled with people much resembUng the inhabitants of Good Hope Island. As they approached the vessel they made a great hallooing, which was interpreted by the navigators into a salutation of welcome, and answered with the sound of trumpets and shout- ing. One of the natives, however, having been observed to shake his wooden aasagay or spear in a warlike manner, and the theft of a shirt from the gallery having been discovered, a cannon and some muskets were discharged against them, by which two of the savages were wounded, and the whole put to flight, the linen (which belonged to the president) being thrown into the sea. A boat which was afterward despatched to search for a more convenient anchorage was attacked, and in the conflict which ensued six of the islanders were killed^ several wounded, and one canoe captured. On the 23d the ship was drawn into a bay, and safely moored at about the distance of a stone's throw from the shore, and so near to a stream of fresh water that a supply could be procured by the boats within range of the guns. Here the adventurers remained Seven days, holding a friendly intercourse with the inhabitants, and receiving provisions from them in retiun for knives, beads, nails, and trinkets. Imme- diately on their anchoring, these last flocked in vast numbers to the beach, and soon e.rcer came off to the ship in their canoes. Towards night an old man brought four bunches of cocoanuts * This reasoning shows that Schouten was ignorant of the strait b»< tween New Guinea and New Holland, discovered by Luis Vaez ds Tor* tm. See above, p. 86. ^- OF THE SETENTEENTH CENTURY. 95 as a present from the artki or herico, the title by which, here as well as at Cocos Island, the chief or king was distin- guished. He refused to accept any gift in return, but ini^ted the Europeans to go on shore. Accordingly, on the morning of the next day, tluree of them landed, six of the natives hav- ing been first put on board the ship as hostages. They weret welcomed with much ceremony, and found the sovereign seated on a mat in an open house or shed, called a beUjiy* On their approach, he joined his hands and bowed his head downward, remaining in that position nearly half an hour; when the Hollanders having at length put themselves into a similar posture, he resumed his usual attitude. One of his at- tendants, supposed to be a chief of high rank, kissed the feet and hands of one of the Dutchmen, " sobbing and crying like a child, and putting the foot of Adrian Claesz upon his neck." A present was given to the principal ruler, of two hand-bells, a red bonnet, and some trifling articles, all of which were re- ceived with much joy, expressed by repeated exclamations of "AwooP^ In return, the visiters were gratified with four small hogs. During the time the sailors were taking in water, ''when any of the Indians came neere the boat, the king himselfe came thither and drave them thence, or oent one of his men to doe it.*' His subjects seemed to yield him im- plicit obedience, and to hold him in great awe. A native having stolen a cutlass, a complaint was made to one of the royal attendants, who instantly caused the criminal to be brought back and beaten with staves. The weapon was re- stored ; and the strangers were informed by signs that if the ariki knew of it, the thiefs head would be cut ofif. After this, says the Journal of Schouten, " we had nothing stolen from us, neither on the shore, nor in the ship, nor elsewhere ; neither durst they take a fish that we angled for." The re- port of a musket produced great consternation among the islanders, and caused them to run off quaking and trembling. Their terror was still greater at the discharge of a camion, which was fired at the desire of the king. Tney all with one aocord, accompanied by his majesty, fled to the woods ; " but not long after they came againe, scarce halfe well assured."* On the 25th, three of the navigators again tried to barter f<»r hogs, but were unsuccessful. The king, howev^ri " after * Purcbasj vol. i., p. 9(^ 100. i V. 96 CIRCUMNAVIGATIONS AND DISCOVERIES ''i • -f tl he had said his prayers, which he used to doe every time that they went on shore," showed much kindness towards them. On the 36th, Jacob Le Maire landed, and made some trifling presents. He met with much respect, though he failed to procure a supply of stock. The ariki and his son bestowed upon him and his companion a head-dress, consisting of feath' era of various colours, which they themselves wore. This cap seems to have been a mark of honour peculiar to the king and his family ; while every member of his council was distin- guished by having a dove sitting on a perch beside him. On the e^rening of the 27th, some fish which had been caught during the day were presented to his majesty, who immedi- ately devoured them raw, " heads, tails, entrails and all, with good appetite." The night closed in festivities, some of the Hollanders remaining on shore, and mingling in the mognlight dances 9f the natives. Two of the sailors performed a mock fight with swords — a spectacle which excited much admira^ tion among the islanders. On the 28th, the voyagers, at- tended with trumpets, went on shore in state, to visit the king ; when they became spectators of an interview between him and a neighbouring prince. On the 29th, Le Maire, accompanied by three of the sea" men, made an excursion into the interior of the country, hav- ing a son imd a brother of the ariki for guides. They saw nothing worthy of remark, except a red earth used by thei" natives for paint, and several caves and holes in the moun- tains, with divers thickets and groves where they lay in am-- bush in time of war. On their return, the young nubles went with the captain on board his vessel, and evinced much satis- faction on bcnng informed, that if a few hogs and yams could- be obtained the ship would sail in two days. In the after- noon, the monarch, with sixteen of his attendants, appeared on deck with the donation of a*^hog and a basket of qocoa- nuts. He delivered these with much ceremony : having^ placed the basket on his neck, he prostrated himself, and iir this posture offered his gifts to Le Maire, who raised him up,, and sat down beside him. At the command of the ariki, hi» people Ufted the Dutch officer and another, and placed them upon their shoulders as a token of reverence. The chief was then conducted through the various parts of the ship, expressing his wonder at what he saw. When led into the hold, " he fell down upon his face and prayed" — a ceremony 0VERIE8 e\ety time that towardfl them, de some trifling gh he failed to Is son bestowed isisting of feath' vote. This cap ' to the king and icil was distin- eside him. On id been caught r, who immedi- ils and all, with es, some of the in the mognlight rformed a mock much admira' te voyagers, at- ite, to visit the erview between ree of the sea-' e country, hav- es. They saw ih used by thef in the mouu' hey lay in am-- ng nubles went ed much satis- nd yams could In the after- lants, appeared ket of cocoa- mony: having timself, and iir raised him up,. ' the ariki, m» placed them The chief of the ship, n led into the — a ceremonjr OF THB SEVENTEENTH CENTURY. 97 which he performed when he first came on board. His at- tendants kissed the feet of the seamen, and placed them on their own heads and necks, in sign of an entire submission. In the evening, one of the Europeans having been successful in taking a quantity of fish, went to present some to the king, when he found a number of girls dancing to the music of a hollow piece of wood like a pump, '* which made a noyse, whoreat the yong wenches danced after their manner, very finely, and with a good grace, according to the measure of the noyse of the instrument."* The king, on the morning of the 30th, sent to the ship two small hogs. On the afternoon of the same day he received a visit from a neighbouring ariki, who ,was accompanied by 300 men, bringing with them sixteen hogs. As the stranger chief drew near to his brother sovereign, he began at some distance to perform strange ceremonies, and bowing down his body fell to the ground on his face, and remained there ** praying" with a loud voice, and apparently with great fervour. The native prince advanced to meet his visiter, and went through the same forms. " After much adoe, they both rose up on their feete, and went and sate together under the king's belai/f and there were assembled together at least 900 men." In the af- ternoon the Dutch saw a kava-feast. A number of the peo- ple having chewed the kava (a sort of green herb) in their mouths for some time, deposited it in a wooden vessel ; they then poured water on it, and, having stirred it, the liquor was partaken of by the arikis and their attendants. The islanders, says the Journal of Schouten, *' presented that notable drinke (as a speciall and a goodly present) to our men ; but they had enough, and more than enough, of the sight thereof't On this occasion, likewise, the discoverers observed the manner in which these savages cooked their hogs. Sixteen were prepared for the present banquet as follows : being ripped up, the entrails removed, and the hair singed off, they were roasted by means of hot stones placed in the internal cavity. Each of the arikis presented to the foreigners one of the hogs thus dressed, with a number of the same animals alive ; receiving in return "three copper beakers, foure knives, twelve old nayles, and some beades, wherewith they were' well pleased." * Parchas, vol. i., p. too. flbid. } 98 CIRCUMNAVIQATIONS AND DISCOVERIES I I .; ! ^1 i, i i !'* Early on the morning of the 31st, preparations were made for sailing. After breakfast, the two chiefs came on board with six additional hogs. On this occasion they wore green cocoa-tree leaves round their necks, which it was presumed was customary with them in taking leave of friends. They were entertained with wine, and received presents of various articles ; while a nail was bestowed on each of their attend- ants. Le Maire accompanied them on shore, when gifts were once more exchanged. At noon the ship proceeded on her voyage, and the Hollanders bade adieu to the natives, on whose island they bestowed the name of Hoom, in honour of the birthplace of Schouten. The inhabitants are described as of large stature and well-proportioned Umbs. They ran swift- ly, and were very expert in swimming and diving. Theii complexion was a tawny yellow, approaching to the hue of bronze.« Much care was bestowed on the (Lressing of their hair, and they arranged it in several different manners. The ariki had a long lock hanging down to his thighs, and twisted into knots ; his attendants wore two such locks, one on each side ; and some of the islanders had four or five. The females are described as having a very repulsive appearance and being of small stature; they wore their hair cut closely to their heads. Such of the habitations as were seen along the mar- gin of the land were of nearly a conical form, about twenty- five feet in circumference, ten or twelve in height, and cov- ered with leaves. Their furniture consisted of a bundle of dried herbs resembling hay, which served for a couch, one or two fishing-rods, and sometimes a wooden club or staff. The hut of the ariki himself could boast no further decorations. "Wo could not perceive," says the Journal of Schouten, " that they worshipped God, or any gods, or used any devo- tion, neither the one nor the other, but lived without care like birds in the wood."^ It appeared to them also that the in- habitants subsisted on the spontaneous fruits of the soil : " They neither sowe nor reape, nor doe any worke ; there the earth of itselfe yeelds all that they need to sustaine their lives, • * Purcbas, vol. i., p. 101. On this passage it must be remarlcecl, tbat the raufe of their observation was very limited, and can by no means be admitted as proof that these islanders had no religion ; though the " prayers," wliich the arilii is so often described as using, apparently meant, not devotional adorations, but words of ceremony. •^. «*■' ^OVERIES OF THE SEVENTEENTH CENTURY. 99 ions were made came on board hey wore green ; was presumed friends. They )ents of various of their attend- ivhen gifts were )cecded on her the natives, on m, in honour of tre described as rhey ran swift- diving. Their to the hue of easing of their nanners. The hs, and twisted :s, one on each The females mce and being losely to their Jong the mar- about twenty- light, and cov- f a bundle of couch, one or ir staff. The decorations. |of Schouten, led any devo- lout care like that the in- of the soil: c; there the e their lives, Iremarked, that |y no means be though the ig, apparently .... so that there men may plainly behold and see the golden world whereof the poets write."* On leaving Hoom, the adventurers pursued a northwest- erly course, and on the 21st of June fell in with a group of small islands covered with trees. Some of the natives came off to the ship in canoes : they are described as in all respects resembling the inhabitants of the former place, except in their complexion, which was of a more dusky hue, and in their arms, which were bows and arrows, the first that the voyagers had seen in the South Sea. Some beads and nails were pre- sented to them, who, having nothing to give in recompense, pointed to the west, to signify that their king dwelt there, in a country abounding vdth every species of wealth. The next day, sailing in the same course, they passed at least twelve or thirteen islands grouped together ; and on the 24th discov- ered three low ones, which, from their being " very green and full of trees,'* they named the Green. Another was in sight, on which were discerned seven or eight hovels. This they named St. John's, from their having seen it on the 24th of June, the nativity of the Baptist. On the morning of the 25th, they obtained a view towarda the southwest of a high land, which they conjectured to be the point of New Guinea, but which in reality was the country since called New Ire- land. About noon they drew near to it, and sailed along the shore in a northwesterly direction. The coast is described as very high and green, and of a pleasant aspect. The inhab- itants spoke a language totally different from that used by the natives of all the other places at which the vessel had touched. The ship's boat, when employed in sounding for an anchorage, was attacked by a party in canoes with volleys of stones thrown from slings ; but a fire of musketry speedily put the ravages to flight. In the evening, after the vessel had an- chored, some others came off, and addressed the sailors in a dial^f^t which they did not understand. They remained * Purchas, vol. i., p. 101. This passage may perhaps remind the reader of some lines in Lord Byron's poem of " The lalarUT— " The bread-tree, which without the ploughshare yields llieunreap'd harvest of unfurrow'd fields. . . . ' lands .... ' t. . Where all partake the earth without dispute, And bread itself is gather'd as a firuit. Where none contest the fields, the woods, the streams,—* Tke goldless age where gold disturbs no dreams !" 100 CIRCUMNAVIGATIONS AND DISCOVERIES t. ' ■' ft *i-J * \'\ watching tho ship all night, and the Europeans perceived sig- nal-fires lighted along the ^ore. In the mornings, eight skins arranged themselves round her ; one of them containing eleven, and the others from four to seven men each. The Dutch threw beads to them, and made friendly signs ; but the sav- ages all at once commenced an attack with their slings and other weapons. The assault was returned with discharges of cannon and muskets, whereby ten or twelve were killed. At the s&me time thev captured fo"r canoes, and made three prisoners, one of whom died shortly after he was taken ; and at noon the two others were carried towards the land in order to be exchanged for provisions. A pig and a bunch of bana- nas were thus procured, and one of the captives was set at liberty. Two days after, some of them came to the ship, but refused to ransom their countiyman ; and on the evening of that day the Eendracht proceeded along the coast in a north- westerly direction. Several islands were seen to the north- ward ; and on the 1st of July she again came to anchor, hav- ing an island about two leagues long on the north, and the coast of New Ireland on the south. Here twenty-five canoes commenced an attack, but were repulsed, a number of the na- tives being killed, and one taken. Here, too, one of the Hol- landers was wounded, " being," says the Journal, " the first that was hurt in all our voyage ;" and after him the captive was named Moses. They continued to sail along this coast till the 3d, when they lost sight of it ; and having passed several small islands, on the 6th they came in sight of the northern coast of New Guinea. About the middle of Sep- tember they arrived at the Moluccas, whence, in the end of that month, they sailed to Java. On the 1st of Novem- ber, while lying off Jacatra, the Eendracht was confis- cated by the Dutch East India^ Company, on the ground that the owners were not partners of that body, and had made the voyage without their leave. Their ship being thus taken from them, several of the seamen entered into the service of the company, and the remainder embarked for Europe on board the Amsterdam and Zealand, which sailed from Ban- tam on the 14th of December. Le Maire died a few days after leaving Java ; but the rest of* the voyagers arrived safely on the 1st July, 1617, having been absent from their native country two years and seventeen days. The finding of this new passage into the Pacific excited i OF THE SEVENTEENTH CENTURY. 101 le service ft ■i acific excited much interest in Europe. To Spain it caused more alarm than any of the hostile armaments which Holland had sent forth against her South Sea possessions, and no time was lost in fitting out an expedition to explore the new discoveries of Schouten and Le Maire. The command was intrusted to two brothers, Bartolome Gracia de Nodal and Gon9alo de Nodal, who, having engaged several Dutch pilots, set sail from Lis- bon 27th September, 1618. They followed the track of the late adventurers, and in passing Cape Horn saw some small rocky islands lying to the southwestward of that promontory, and named them the Isles of Diego Ramirez. They then steered southward, and, penetrating the Straits of Magellan, completed the circunmavigation of Tierra del Fuego, and ar- rived at Spain in July, 1619. Contemporaneously with the discovery of Cape Horn, the Dutch efifected another of still greater importance, that of the vast island or rather continent of New Holland or Australia. It does not fall within the limits of this work to enter on the difficult question how far this country was known to the early Portuguese voyagers. Neither is it in our province to decide whether the honour of its discovery is not due to Luis Vaez de Torres, who, in sailing between New Holland and New Guinea, saw land on the south, which must have been part of this great island.* It may be doubted if the Portuguese were aware of the nature of the lands they are said to have visited ; it is certain, moreover, that Torres conceived them to be {)arts of a large archipelago ; and, at all events, these visits ed to no beneficial result, and had passed into oblivion. The honour of discoviering New Holland, therefore, so far as util- ity and the advancement of science are concerned, may be safely awarded to the Dutch. In October, 1616, the ship Eendracht, commanded by Dirck Hatichs (or, as it has been more commonly, but less correctly written, Hertoge), in her passage from Holland to the East Indies, discovered in lati- tude 25°, the western coast of Australia, and called it Land Eendracht, a name which it still retains. Only a few years elapsed after the completion of the voy- S'P of Schouten and Le Maire before another armament left oUand for the South Sea. The truce which for twelve years had subsisted between Spain and the United Provinces ' ' - :^ - * See above, p. 8S. 12 k^s\ 102 CIRCUMNAVIGATIONS AND DISCOVERIES !. -a h i\ V having expired in 1621, both parties hastened to resume ac- tive hostilities. Among other measures, the Dutch, early in the year 1623, fitted out a naval armament against Peru ; and it is to the proceedings of this fleet that we have now to di- rect the reader's attention. It consisted of eleven ships, mounting 294 cannon, and supplied with 1637 men, of whom 600 were soldiers. The command was intrusted to Jacob I'Hermite, an officer who had acquired celebrity in the service of their East India Company ; and the squadron, which, in honour of Prince Maurice of Nassau, one of its chief promo- ters, was named the Nassau Fleet, sailed from Goree on the 29th April, 1623. On the 1 1th August they anchored off Sierra Leone, and remained there till the beginning of September. Durinff their stay they experienced the fatal effects of that pestilential cUmat^ from wliich Europeans have since suffered so much. They buried forty-two men, and many more suffered severely, among whom was the Admiral PHermite, who contracted a disease from which he never recovered. After leaving this coast, they visited the islands of San Tomas and Annabon, at the latter of which they remained till the beginning of No- vember. It was in their instructions, that they should not touch at any part of the South American continent northward of the Rio de la Plata, and that they should penetrate into the South Sea by the newly-discovered Strait of Le Maire, which was considered to afford a more certain passage than the Straits of Magellan. It was the first of February before they made the Cape de Penas on Tierra del Fuego, and on the 2d they entered Strait Le Maire, which the Journal of the Voy- age says they would not have known, had not one of the pilots who had previously passed through it recognised the high mountains on Tierra del Fuego.^ Some of the ships anchored in two bays near the northern entrance, which they named Verschoor and Valentine, and are the same with the Port Mauritius of modem maps and the Bay of Good Success. Although the whole fleet had passed through the strait just described on the evening of the 2d of February, yet, owing to contrary vrinds, they were on the 14th still seven leagues eastward of Cape Horn. The next day they doubled that promontory, and saw " a great eulf between that cape and the cape next to the west," which they were prevented from entering by bad weather. On the 16th Cape Horn lay to the I 3VERIE8 OF THE SEVENTEENTH CENTURY. 103 eastward, and they discovered two islands, which, according to their reckoning, were distant to the westward fourteen or fifteen leagues. The following morning thev perceived that they had lost ground, and fearing that they should still fall to leeward, they entered a large bay and cast anchor. In this harbour, which waa afterward named Nassau Bay, they re- mained ten days. On the 23d, some boats, which were sent to procure water, were compelled by a sudden and violent storm to return, leaving nineteen of the crew on shore wholly destitute of arms, of whom next day only two were found alive. The savages, it appeared, as soon as night came on, attacked them with clubs and slings, and killed all except the two, who had contrived to conceal themselves. Only five bodies were discovered, some of which were cut into quar- ters, and others strangely mangled. Not a single native was seen after this unfortunate event. A party which had been sent to examine the neighbouring coast, reported that the Tierra del Fuego was divided into several islands ; that with- out doubling Cape Horn a passage into the South Sea might be effected, through the Bay or rather Gulf of Nassau, which was open to the east as well as to the west ; and that through some of these numerous openings it was presumed ships mignt penetrate into the Strait ot Magellan. Such parts of the Tierra del Fuego as were seen appeared decidedly mountainous, though not wanting in many fine valleys and watered mead- ows. The hills were clad with trees, all of which were bent eastward, owing to the strong westerly winds which prevail in these parts. Spacious harbours, capable of sheltering the largest fleets, were frequently observed between the islands. The natives are described as differing little in stature from the people of Europe, and as being well proportioned in their limbs. Their hair is long, black, and thick, their teeth " as sharp as the blade of a knife." They paint their bodies of different colours and with fanciful devices ; their natural com- plexion, however, seemed to be as fair as that of a European. Some of them were observed to have one side of their body alto- gether white, and the opposite entirely red ; others were re- marked with the trunks of their bodies wldte, and the face, arms, and legs coloured red. The males were perfectly naked ; the females, who were painted like the men, wore only a little piece of skin about the waist, and a strinff of eihella round their neck. Their huts were constructed of 104 CIRCUMNAVIGATIONS AND DISCOVERIES *•■ I ! 'i 1 1 I," Han of Terra del Fuego. trees, in a conical form, having an opening at the top to let the smoke escape ; the floor was sunk two or three feet be- low the level of the ground ; and the sides of the walls were covered with earth. Their j^shing-tackle consisted of lines, stone hooks, and harpoons, which were generally fabricated with some degree of neatness. For arms they had sharp knives made of stone ; slings, bows, and arrows with stone heads ; lances pointed with bone, and clubs. Their canoes meas- ured in length from ten to sixteen feet, and about two in width ; they were built of the bark of large trees, resembling in shape the gondolas of Venice. In regard to their manners and haibits, the report is very unfavourable : they more re- semble beasts than human beings ; *' for besides that they tear men to pieces, and devour the flesh raw and bloody, there '^1 SCOVBRIES OF THE SEVENTEENTH CENTURY. 105 it the top to let ir three feet be- ' the walls were nsisted of lines, erally fabricated lad sharp knives 1 stone heads ; canoes meas- 1 about two in ees, resembling their manners they more re- sides that they id bloody, there f 1 was not perceived among them the smallest indication of a religion or government ; on the contrary, they live together like beasts."* The fleet left Nassau Bay on the 27th February, and for some time met with westerly winds, so that they did not reach the Island of Juan Fernandez till the beginning of April. Having taken in water here, they sailed on the 13th for the coast of Peru, and on the 8th of May were off Callao, where they remained until the 14th of August. On the 2d of June, Jacob I'Hermite, the admiral, died of the lingering illness con- tracted at Sierra Leone, which was aggravated by the hard> ships and misfortunes of the expedition. He was buried on the Island of Lima, the Isla de San Lorenzo of modem charts ; and the vice-admiral, Hugo Schappenham, succeeded to the command. On leaving Callao they proceeded north- ward, and after various delays arrived at Acapulco on the 28th of October. Here they remained some time, and having at last finally resolved to proceed westward to reach the Indies, on the 29th of November they bade adieu to the shores of Mexico, and directed their course across the Pacific. On the evening of the 25th January, 1625, they came in sight of Guahan, one of the Ladrones or Marians, having on the 15th passed some islands supposed by them to be those of Gaspar Rico, but which more probably belonged to the group San Bartolome, discovered in 1526 by Loyasa.f They left Guahan on the 1 1th of February, and in the begin- ning of March arrived at the Moluccas, where the fleet hav- ing been broken up, the expedition may be said to have ter- minated. The admiral, Schappenham, embarked in the Een- dracht for Holland, but died while off the coast of Java. The vessel proceeded on her voyage, and on the 9th of July, 1626, anchored in the Texel ; having the first journalist of the ex- pedition on board, who thus reached his native country after an absence of three years and seventy days. This armament failed in effecting the hostile designs with which it was un- dertaken, and was nearly as unsuccessful in adding to mari- time science. It contributed little or nothing to geography but the knowledge of Nassau Bay, and a more accurate ex- amination of the southern shores of Tierra del Fuego. * Barney, Chron. Hist. Discov., vol. iii., p. 15. t See above, p. S5; and Burney, Cbron. Hist. Discov., vol. iii., p. 33, and vol. i., p. 138. 106 CIRCUMNAVIGATIONS AND DISCOVERIES ■ ! y ^ ^i ■\ The discovery of New Holland, which had been com* menced by Dirck Hatichs, continued for many years to be occasionally prosecuted by the Dutch ; but not before 1642 was it ascertained what were its southern limits, or how far it extended to the eastward. This was effected, at least within a rude degree of accuracy, by Abel Jansen Tasman, one of the most illustrious of the Dutch navigators, who found a generous and liberal patron in Anthony Van Diemen, the governor of Batavia.* The expedition, which was fitted out by him and his council, sailed from Batavia on the 14th August, 1642. On the 24th November they discovered Anthony Van Diemen's Land, so named, says Tasman, " in honour of our high magistrate, the governor-general, who sent us out to muce discoveries ;** ley continued to coast alon^ that island till the 6th Decem- ber, when they directed their course to the eastward. On the 13th a shore was discovered, to which Tasman gave the name of Staats or Staten Land, from a belief that it was a part of the country of the same name discovered by Schouten and Le Maire, to the east of Tierra del Fuego ; but the name was afterward changed into New Zealand. During his progress along the coast, he was attacked by the savages with that courage and ferocity which later navigators have so fatally experienced. For some time after leaving New Zealand the ships pur- sued a northeasterly course, till on the 19th of January they reached a high island, two or three miles in circumference, on which they bestowed the name of Pylstaart or Tropic- bird, from the number of these fowls which frequented it. On the 21st two more were discovered, distant from each other about a mile and a half. The northern was named Am- sterdam, because, says Tasman, " we found plenty of pro- * For many years the only account of Tasman's voyage was to be found in a curtailed abridgment of his journal, published at Amsterdam in 1674, and a more copious relation inserted in Valentyn's East Indian De- Rcriiitions. About 1771, however, a MS. journal of Tasman (supposed to be the original) fell into the hands of Sir Joseph Banlcs, and was found to be much more complete than uny previous narrative. An English trans- lation, executed in 1776 by the Rev. C. O. Woide, was published by Bur- ney.— Chron. Hist. Discov., vol. iil., p. 63-110. The journal thus com- mences :—" Journal or Description by me, Abel Jansz Tasman, of a Voyage flrom Kalavia for mailing Dii^coveries of the unknown South Lnnd, in the year 1643. May God Almighty bs pleased to give his Illessiii|{ to this Voyage ! Amen." COVERIES OF THE SEVENTEENTH CENTURY. 107 had been com* lany years to be not before 1642 itnits, or how far iflected, at least Jansen Tasman, navigators, who ny Van Diemen, II and his council, 2. On the 24th emends Land, so h magistrate, the ke discoveries;" the 6th Decem- ! eastward. On h Tasman gave )hef that it was a red by Schouten Fuego ; but the ealand. During . by the savages vigators have so the ships pur- of January they circumference, lart or Tropic- frequented it. tant from each (ras named Am- plenty of pro- voyage was to be led at Amsteidam 8 East Indian De- man (supposed to and was round to Ln English trans- ublished by Bur- )urnal thus com- iz Tasman, of a )wn South Lnnd, ive his Dlessiit|| Yisions there ;" and to the southern they gave the title of Middleburgh. By the natives, the latter is called Eooa, and the former Tongataboo ; and the one last mentioned is the principal of the cluster now called the Friendly Islands, Some of the savages approached in a canoo : they are described as exceeding the common stature of Europeans, of a brown complexion, and wearing no other dress than a slight cover- ing round the waist. They called out loudly to the voyagers, who shouted in return, and after showing them some white linen, threw a piece overboard. Before the canoe reached the spot, the cloth had begun to sink ; but one of the natives dived in pursuit of it, and after remaining a long time under water brought up the linen, and, in token of his gratitude, placed it several times on his heacl. They also gave them some beads, nails, and looking-glasses ; these the islanders applied in like manner, and in return presented a small line and a fishing hook made of shell like an anchovy. The Dutch in vain tried to make them understand that they wanted fresh water and hogs. In the afternoon, however, they were observed in great numbers running along the shore displaving white flags : these were construed as signs of peace, and re- turned by a similar token hoisted on the stern. On this, a ca- noe bearing white colours came off to the ship. It contained four individuals with coverings of leaves round their necks, and with their bodies painted black from the waist to the thigh. From the nature of their present, which consisted of some cloth made of the bark of a tree, and from the superiority of their vessel, it was conceived that they came from the chief or sovereign. The officers bestowed upon them a mirror, a knife, spikes, and a piece of linen ; a glass was also filled with wine, and having been drunk off, was again filled and offered to the natives ; but they poured the liquor out, and carried the glass on shore. Shortly after, many canoes arrived to barter cocoa- nuts for nails. A grave old man, who, from the great respect paid to him, seemed to be a leader, also came on board, and saluted the strangers by placing his head upcm their feet. He was presented with a piece of linen and several other articles, and conducted into the cabin. On being shown a cup of fresh water, he made signs that there was some on the island. In the evening, one of the natives was detected in the act of stealing a pistol and a pair of gloves ; but the mariners con- tented themselves with taking the things from him " without %i M II mia. :oyERiEs OF THE SEVENTEENTH CENTURY. 109 inoes came from lar the ship ; the 1 times in a loud jse who were on alongside with a ;, cocoanuts, and ) given in return, nued until night, aving only one of By resumed their 8 day several fe- the elder women I. The meaning ver; but, as ap- iged individuals.* natives; and one occasioned a con- nng that no harm rage. The men ells so small that lells. Next day, ns must be made ne by his attend- lors into a pleas- md supplied with The people of ma the case. "The ig thcrv« some singular superstitions. *' I saw one of them," siys Tas* man, ** tSke up a water-snake which was near his boat, and he put it respectfully upon his head, and then again into the wa- ter. They kill no flies, though they are very numerous, and plague them extremely. Our steersman accidentally killed a fly m ttie presence of one of the principal people, who could not help showing anger at it." He seems to have formed a very unfavourable estimate of their character, and styles them ** people who have the form of the human species, but no hu- man manners." On leaving this group, he directed his course west north- west, and, alter six days* sailing, came to about eighteen or twenty small islands, surrounded with shoals and sand-banks, whicl( were named Prince William's Islands and Hecmskerke^a Shoals, and which, from the dangerous reefs surrounding them^ have been rarely visited since their furst discovery. The remain- der of his voyage possesses little interest, as his track was pretty nearly the same which had been pursued by Schouten ^d Le Maire. He arrived at Batavia on the 16th June, in tho year 1643, af^er an absence of ten months and one day. While Tasman was engaged in this vpyage, which ascer* tained the southern boundary of the Terra Australia, another expedition, fitted out by the Dutch West India Company to cruise in the South Sea, dispelled the delusive notions which had been entertained regarding the extent of the §taten Land discovered by Schouten and his coUea^e. The command of this enterprise was intrusted to Hendnck Brower, who sailed from the Texel on the 6th November, 1642, and reached tho entrance of Strait Le Maire on the fifth of March following. The day was very clear, and the whole surface of Staten Land was plainly revealed ; and, instead of being part of a large continent extending to New Holland, it was found to be a small island, nine or ten of their miles, as they calculated, in the east aide of tlie island, where six large vesaela with masts were lying. They then led us to a pool of water which was ahout a mile in circum- fbrenee ; hat we were not yet come to the aigy or latoun^ aa they call their chief. When we had reated, we again asked where the aigy was, and ihey pointed to the other aide of the pool of water ; but the day be- ing fhr advanced, we returned by another way to oor boata."— Chron. Hist. Diaeov., vtrt. iii., p.88. Modem diaooverlaa have shown that this last panage Is correct. !0V£RIF8 OP THE 8BYBNTE&NTR ClKTVRT. Ill length. Tho winds were unfavourablo for their passage through the strait, and they resolved to sail to the east of tho isle. This they did without meeting any obstacle, and thence pursued the passage by Cape Hum into the South Sea, where no better fortune awaited them than had been experi- enced by the ill-fated Nassau Fleet. The name of Brower's Strait was given to the track which he had pursued round Stat- on Island, from a belief that there existed lands to the east- ward. After this voyage a long period elapsed, marked by an al- most total cessation of maritime enterprise. In 1644, it is true, Tasman was again sent out, with instructions to ascer- tain whether New Guinea, New Holland, and Van Diemeii's Land were one continent, or separated by straits. No record of his voyage, however, has been preserved, and if he made any discoveries they soon passed into oblivion. In 1676, a merchant of the name of Jja Roche, bom in London of French parents, observed, to the east of Staten Land, an island which appears to be identical with the New Georgia of Cook ; and these are the only expeditions on record, from the date of Brower*s voyage till we come to the adventures of the buc- aniers, in the latter part of the century. Many of these rovers became desirous of trying their fortune in the South Seas, and fitted out for that purpose a vessel of eighteen guns, in which they sailed from the Ches- apeake 23d August, 1683. They were commanded by Captain John Cook, and among their number were several who were afterward known to tame — William Dampier, Ed- ward Davis, Lionel Wafer, and Ambrose Cowley. On the coast of Guinea they captured a ship which they christened the Batchelor's Delight, and, having burnt their old vessel " that she might tell no tales," embarked on board their prize. In January, 1684, they saw the islands first visited by Davis, and at that time distinguished by tho appellation of Sibald de Weert. The editor of the joumal left by Cowley, one of the historians of the voyage, anxious to flatter the secretary of the admiralty, represented these as a new discovery, and gave to them the name of Pepys — a circumstance which we shall hereafter see occasioned much perplexity and useless search. After passing Cape Hom, the bucaniers touched at Juan Fernandez,' and thence set sail for the coast of Mex- ico, having been joined in the cruise by the ship Nicholas of i , » m vi \ t t V •u- i i' ^ \ 112 circtimKavigations and discotbries London, under the command of John Eaton. In July, Cap- tain Cook died, and was succeeded as chief officer by Edwud Davis, and in September Eaton and Davis parted compaiw — the former, with whom went Cowley, sailing for the East Indies, and the latter remaining in the South Sea. Shortly after this event, Davis was joined by the Cygnet, Captain Swan, as also by a small bark, manned by bucaniers ; and with this united force, which was still further augmented by French adventurers, the rovers continued to carry on their depredations with varying success until August, 1685. At that time serious dissensions arose, and Swan, leaving his. consorts, determined to sail northward to the Califomian coast, with the intention of proceeding to the East Indies. In this voyage he was accompanied by Dampier, who has left a narrative of the expedition. It was the Slst of March, 168^, before they quitted the American coast and stood west- ward across the Pacific, nor did they reach the Ladrones until May. After departing from these, they visited in suc- cession the Bashee Islands, the Philippines, Celebes, Timor, and New Holland. In April, 1688, they were at the Nicor bar Islands, and here Dampier , quitted the expedition, and found his way to England in 1691. The Cyniet afterward perished off Madagascar. In the career of Davis, who, as has been mentioned, remained in the South Sea, the most remarkable event was the discovery of an island mamed after him, and now generally identified with Easter Island. In 1688, this bold mariner returned to the West Indies.* • The last ten years of the seventeenth century are almost entirely barren of discovery. In 1690, an expedition, fitted out partly for privateering partly for trading purposes, and placed under the command of Captain John Strong, brought to light, in their course to the South Sea, the passage be- tween the two larger islands of the Falkland group. He named this channel Falkland Sound — a term which has since been generally applied to the islands themselves. In 1699, M. de Beauchesne Gouin, a French commander, detected an island to the east of Tierra del Fuego, and bestowed on it his own name, which it still retains. The / same year was ** For a minute narrative of this voyage, and an account or the rise and history of the bucaniers, the reader is referred to the Lives and Voyages of Drake, Cavendish, and Dampier.— [No. XXX. of the Family Library.] SC0VBRIE8 OF THE SEVENTEENTH CENTURY. 113 marked by a voyage under the auspices of the British gov- ernment, expressly for the extension of geographical science. It was placed under the direction of Dampier, and its object was the more minute examination of New Holland and New Guinea. It added much to our knowledge of these coun- tries, and is the most important contribution to science made by that navigator. In reviewing the progress of discovery in the seventeenth century, it will be seen that enterprise languished during its latter years, and that almost every addition made to our Knowledge was effected in the earlier portion of it. During that time were made the important acquisitions of Staten Isl- and, Strait Le Maire, and Gape Horn, and of several har- bours and islands of Tierra del Fuego. In the more central parts of the Pacific were visited the New Hebrides, the groups of the Society and Friendly Islands, and many of the smaller isles scattered over the great ocean. On the Asiatic side, some information had been obtained of New Holland, Van Diemen's Land, and New Zealand. The coasts of New Guinea were more accurately examined, and many of the islands which stretch along its shores were explored. The existence of a strait between New Guinea and New Holland was ascertained ; though, from accidental circum- stances, the memory of this achievement was soon lost. Such were the advances made in geographical science during the first forty years of the century : the remaining portion was undistinguished by any acquisition of great importance. In this long space we have to enumerate only the discoveries of one of the Carolines, which gave its name to the group, of New Georgia, Easter and Beauchesne Iskujids, Falkland Sound, and a survey of some parts of Australia. Of the three circumnavigations made in the course of this age, all were performed by the Dutch.* Spain had now y ame year was * We have followed Bnmey and Bon^inville in not assigning the title or circumnavigations to the expraitions of the bucaniers be- tween 1683 and 1691, above narrated. We may here alfio state, that we can neither rank Gemelii Careri (1697) nor M. de Pag^s (1767-1776) among circumnavigators, because that word can hardly be applied to travellers who, indeed, encircled the glol)e, but did so by crossing the Isthmus of Darien and several parts of Asia. M. de Pag^s can have been styled a circumnavigator only by those who had read no flirther than Abe title*page of his book, and were Ignorant of the meaning attached K2 114 CIRCUMNAVIGATIONS, ETC. withdrawn from the field of enterprise into which she was the ^rst to enter ; and during the seventeenth century but one expedition for South Sea discovery of any note was fitted out from her ports. England, distracted by the great civil war and other events, had neslected to follow up the career ao boldly begun by Drake and Cavendish ; and, with the ex- ception of Dampicr's voyage to New Holland, her only ad- venturers in the Pacific were the lawless bucaniers. To the United Provinces is due the honour of having, during this period, kept up the spirit of investigation, and widely extend- ed the limits of geographical knowledge. by the French to the word voyage.—" Voyages autour da Monde et vera les deux Poles. Par M. de Pages." Paris, 176S), 8 vols. 8vo. ) / W ! i ■ ■■«■, f CIRCUMNAVIOATlONSy ETC. 115 CHAPTER V. Circumnavigatiotu from the Beginning of the Eighteenth Century to the Reign of George III. Circumnavigation of Dampier and Funnel, of Woodea Rofera, of Olip- penon and Shelvoclce, of Rosgewein.— Eaater laland.— Pernicious islande. — Circumnavigation of A naon.— Objects of the Expedition. — Passage of Cape Horn.— Severe Bufleringa of the Crew.— Juan Fer- nandez.— Cruise on the American Coists.— Burning of Pay ta.— Loss of the Gloucester.— Tinian.— Capture of the Manilla Galleon. — Return of the Centurion to England.— Fata of the Wager. The early part of the eighteenth century was marked by numerous privateering voyages to the South Sea, generally undertaken by English merchants ; expeditions which, indeed, served little to advance either maritime science or the repu- tation of British seamen. The principle which almost inva- riably regulated them was, " No prizes no pay/' and this led to continual disorder and insuboroination. The commanders, too frequently, were men of no education, of dissipated habits, .and of violent and avaricious dispositions. Alto- gether, the narrative of these bucaniering adventures is one of the least creditable in the naval annals of the country. The first of them which we have to notice, was directed by one whom Captain Basil Hall has not unjustly styled " the prince of voyagers," — ^William Dampier. This skilful navi- gator sailed from Kiopale in Ireland, on the 11th September, 1703, in command of two ships, the St. George and the Cinque Ports galley, and entered the South Sea in the begin- ning of the following year. But even his talents and resolu- tion were unable to preserve order among his boisterous crews, and the history of their proceedings accordingly is an unbroken series of dissension and tumult. On the 19th of May, these disputes had reached such a height that the ves- sels agreed to part company. The Cinque Ports, which sailed to the southward, was eventually run ashore, and the people taken prisoners by the Spaniards. In September another quarrel broke out on board the St. George, which 116 FROM THE BEGINNING OF THE I led to the desertion of the chief mate, John Clipperton, with twenty-one of the seamen. In January, 1705, differences again occuried, and the remainder separated into two parties. One of these immediately sailed for the East Indies, and, re- turning to Europe by the Cape of Good Hope, arrived in the Texel in July, 1706 : a narrative of their voyage has been left by Funnel. Shortly after this secession, Dampier was forced to abandon the St. George, and to embark in a prize which had been taken from the Spaniards. In this he pro- ceeded to the East Indies ; but, being unable to produce his commission, which had been stolen from him, it is said, by his mate Clipperton, his vessel was seized by the Dutch, and he himself detained some time a prisoner. In 1708 we again meet this bold seaman as a circum» navigator, in the capacity of pilot to Woodes Rogers, who sailed from Cork on the 1st September, in the command of two ships, fitted out by the merchants of Bristol to cruise against the Spaniards in the South Sea. In December the squadron reached the Falkland Islands, and after being driven to the latitude of 62° south in doubling Cape Horn, arrived, in Januaiy, 1709, at Juan Fernandez, the well-luiown rendez- vous of the bucaniers. Their visit was the means of resto- ring to civilized life the celebrated Alexander Selkirk, whose residence on this island upwards of four years became, as has been already hinted, the groundwork of Defoe's romance of Robinson Crusoe. After this nearly a twelvemonth was spent in cruising on the coasts of Peru, Mexico, and California. In January, 1710, they sailed across the Pacific, and in March made the Ladrone Islands. They arrived in the Thames on .he 14th of October, 1711, loaded with a booty which rendered the enterprise highly lucrative to the owners. With this voy- age closed the long and checkered life of Dampier ; on his return to England he sunk into an obscurity which none of his biographers has yet succeeded in removing.* The success of this expedition led soon afterward to another of a similar description. In 1718, the war which was then waged between Spain and the German empire appeared to some " worthy gentlemen o<" London, and persons of distinc- ' * For an account of the voyages and circumnavigations in which Dam- fder bore ■ part, mora Aill and detailed than was compatible with the plan of the present vyaffe has been , Dampier was >ark in a prize In this he pro- to produce his 1, it is said, by the Dutch, and n as a circum> s Rogers, who he command of ristol to cruise December the ter being driven Horn, arrived, ■known rendez- neans of resto- Selkirk, whose became, as has i*s romance of lonth was spent "^ahfomia. In and in March le Thames on hich rendered ^'ilh this voy- ipier; on His ich none of his rard to another )ich was then appeared to ^ns of distinc- I in which Dam- iiible with the |reaandVoyaf«a ^o.XXX.) tion,** to afford a favourable opportunity of cruising against the subjects of the former country in the South Sea, under commissions from Charles VI. Accordinglv» two ships, the Success of thirty-six guns and the Speedwell of twenty-ifour, were fitted out in the river Thames. To give some colour to the design, their names were changed into the Prince Eu- gene and the Staremberg ; and this latter vessel was de- spatched to Ostend, under the command of Captain George Shelvocke, to take on board some Flemish officers and sea^ men, and to receive the commission firom the emperor. The conduct of this gentleman, while engaged in these preparations, was by the owners considered imprudent, and on his return to England he was superseded in his office of commander-in- chief by Clipperton (wno had sailed as mate with Dampier in the St. George), though he was allowed to continue in charge of the Staremberg. During the course of these arrangements, Great Britain declared war against Spain : the imperial au- thority was in consequence laid aside, and the Flemish offi- cers and seamen discharged ; the ships recovered their origi- nal names, and were manned with English crews. Thus fitted out, the Success and Speedwell sailed from Plymouth on the 13th February, 1719. Six days after, a vio- lent storm arose, and both ships were obliged to pass the night under bare poles. The gale abated on the allowing evemng, when they again proceeded, the former under CUp- porton holding a southeasterly direction, while Captain Shel- vocke in the latter stood to the northwest, a difference of course which so effectually disjoined them, <* that from that day they never saw each other till they met in the South Seas by mere accident." It will be necessary, therefore, in the notice of this expedition, to give distinct narratives of the proceedings of the two commanders. When they parted company, the whole stock of wine, brandy, and other liquors, designed for the supply of both ships, was on board the Speedwell ; and this circumstance has generally been admitted as evidence in favour of Clipperton, that the separation could not be designed on his part. It is certain that, after losing sight of his consort, he immediately set sail for the Canary Islands, the first rendezvous which had been agreed on in case of losing each other. He arrived there on the 6th March, and after having waited ten days in Tain, set sail for the Cape de Verd Islands, Uie second place 118 FROM THE BEOINNINO OF THE appointed for their meeting. Having cruised here also an equal period, and hearing nothing of Shelvocke, he directed his course for the Straits of Magellan, at the eastern entrance of which he arrived on the 29th May. During this passage several of the seamen died, and much hardship and privation had been experienced ; and on the 18th of August, when he reached the South Sea, the crew were in such an enfeebled condition, ** that it was simply impossible for them to under- take any thing immediately." In conformity, therefore, with his instructions, which appointed Juan Fernandez as the third rendezvous, Clipperton immediately proceeded thither, and remained about a nionth, after which he departed for the coast of Peru, which he reached in October. Although he had lost upwards of thirty of his men prior to the time of his quit- ting the island just named, he was sc successful as, in the course of little more than four weeks, to have taken five prizes, some of them of considerable value, besides one which he captured, but which subsequently made her escape. On the 27th of November he despatched a vessel to Brazil, loaded with booty, valued at more than 10,000/. ; but she never reached her destination, having, there is reason to think, been intercepted by the Spaniards. From this time to the begin- ning of 1V21, he continued to cruise on the American coast with indifferent success. On the 25th January in that year he . met with Shelvocke near the Island of Quibo, and, after exchanginga few stores, they parted company on the succeed- ing day. During their stay on the Mexican shore, they again met on four different occasions. On three of these they passed each other without speaking ; and on the fourth, a proposal made by Clipperton, that they should sail in com- pany, met with no success. This took place on the 13th of March ; and, four days afterward, the last-named officer sailed for China. About the middle of May he made Guahan, one of the Ladrones, his departure from which was hastened by an unfortunate quarrel, which terminated to his disadvantage. On the 2d of July he arrived in China, when the disputes which ensued regarding the division of plunder were referred to the judgment of the native authorities. These awarded to the proprietors 6000/., to the common seamen 97/. \5s. 4d. each, and to the captain 1466/. 10s. The owners' share was conmiitted to a Portuguese ship, which took fire in the har- bour of Rio Janeiro, wnd not more than 1800/. of the property EIGHTEENTH CENTURY TO GEORGE III. 119 was saved. Clipperton's vessel was sold at Macao, and her crew returned home. The unfortunate commander reached Galway in Ireland in the beginning of June, 1722, where he died within a week after his arrival. On parting with his consort, Shelvocke contrived so to manage his course that he did not reach the Canaries \mtil the 17th of March, two days after the other had departed. Hav- ing remained there more than a week, he proceeded to the Cape de Verd Islands, where he also waited some time for Clipperton. After plundering a Portuguese vessel on the coast of Brazil, he passed Strait le Maire, and in rounding Cape Horn experienced such tempestuous weather, that he was driven to a high southern latitude. He seems to have been much struck with the bleakness of these cold and steril regions : " We had not," he says, " the sight of one fish of any kind since we were come to the southward of the Streights of Le Maire, nor one sea-bird, except a disconsolate black albatross, which accompanied us for several days, hovering about us as if it had lost itself; till Mr. Hartley, observing in one of his melancholy fits that this bird was always hovering near us, imagined from its colour that it might be an ill omen ; and so, after some fruitless atten^ts, at length shot the alba- tross, not doubting that we should have a fair wind after it."* * This incident is believed to have given rise to the late Mr. Samuel Taylor C!oleridge'8 wild and beaatiful poem of " The Rime of the Ancient Mariner." " And now there came both mist and snow, And it grew wondrous cold, And ice mast high came floating by, As green as emerald. • * » * « Kor shapes of men nor beasts we ken, The ice was all between. At length did cross an albatross, Thorough the fog it came. And a good south wind sprung up behind, The albatross did follow; And every day fbr food or play Came to the mariner's hollo ! r i I* m 120 FROM THE BEGINNING OF THE ' At length, about the middle of November, he made the west* em coast, and on the 30th of the same month anchored at the Island of Chiloe. His instructions were, that on entering the South Sea he should immediately proceed to Juan Fernandez ; but it was not until the 11th of January, 1720, that he repaired thither to inquire about his colleague, who had been there about three months previously. He remained only four days, and then steered towards the shores of Peru, along which he cruised till the beginning of May, capturing several vessels, and burning the town of Payta. On the 11th of the same month he returned to Juan Fernandez, off which, partly for the purposes of watering and partly detained by bad weather, he remained until the 26th, when his ship was driven on shore, and became a wreck. With the loss of one man, the crew succeeded in gaining the land, carrying along with them a few of their stores. Little unanimity subsisted among the seamen ; and hence the building of a new vessel in which they were employed proceeded but slowly. It was not until the 5th of October that their rude bark was launched, which even then was considered so insufficient, that twenty-four of them chose rather to remain on the island than trust themselves to the ocean in such a feeble structure. On the 6th, Shelvocke and forty-six others put to sea, and stood eastward for the shores of the continent. After two in- effectual attempts on different vessels, he succeeded in captur- ing a Spanish ship of 200 tons burden, into which he transferred his crew, and abandoned the sloop. Being once more in a condition to commit hostilities, he continued to cniise along the coast, from Chili northward to California, until about the middle of the year 1721, Durina this period, as has been al- ready mentioned, he met Clipperton, with whom he finally In mist or cloud, on mast or shroud. It perch'd Tor vespers nine. . . . . . with my cross-bow I shot the albatross. Then all averr'd I h»d kill'd the bird ' That brought the fog and mist ; 'Twas right, said they, such birds to slay That bring the fog and mist." Coleridge's Poetical Works. Load., 18?4, vol. ii., p. 3-5 ;. . t EIGHTEENTH CENTURY TO GEORGE III. 121 parted towards the end of March. On the 18th of August he sailed from California for China, and on the 21st discovered an island to which his own name was given, though there seems good reason for supposing it to be the same with Roca Partida, one of the ReviUagigedo Isles, seen by Spilbergen and other early voyagers. * On the 1 1 th November he reached his destination, and anchored in the river of Canton, where he sold his prize, dividing the plunder which he had acquired among his crew. On this occasion, the able seamen received 440/. Is. 2d. each, and the commander's share amounted to 2642/. lOs. He soon afterward procured a passage to Eng- land in an East Indiaman, and landed at Dover on the 30th July, 1722. He was arrested, and two prosecutions instituted against him — the one for piracy, and the other for defrauding his proprietors. Of these, the first was abandoned for want of evidence, and the second was interrupted by his escape from pij^n and flight from the kingdom. He afterward suc- ceeded ih compounding with the owners, and having returned he published an account of his voyage. The next circumnavigation was that accomplished by Jacob Roggewein, a Dutchman.! An injunction to prosecute the search for southern lands had, it is said, been laid upon him by his father a short time before his death. This last had, in the year 1669, presented a memorial to the Dutch West India Company, containing a scheme for discovery in the South Sea, and his proposals were so well received, that some vessels were equipped for the purpose ; but the disturbances between the United Provinces and Spain put a stop to the project. In 1721 it was renewed by his son, in an application to the same association, which bore a reference to the memorial of his father. It has been insinuated, that the readiness with which the request of Roggewein was conceded, had its origin, less in a desire for the advancement of science than in inter- 'il * Bumey, Chron. Hist. Discov., vol. iv., p. 551. t Two accounts of Roggewein's voyage exist. The first appeared wittiout ttie auttior's name at Dort, in 1728, under the title of " Twee Jaarige Reyze rondom de Wereld,"— A Two Years' Voyage round the World. The second, written in German, was printed at I.Mpsic in 1738 ; a French translation was published at the Hague In 1739. This v^ork was written by Charles Frederick Behrens, a native of Mecklenburg, who was sergeant and commander of the troops in Roggewein's fleet. Both accounts have been translated by Mr. Dalrymple (Hist. Coll., vol. il, p. 85-120), who terminates his valuable work with this voyage. 122 FROM THE BEGINNING OF THE ested motives. No time, it is certain, was lost in preparing the expedition, which consisted of three vessels, the largest carrying 36 guns, and manned by 111 men. These sailed from the Texel on the 21st August, 1721, and in November were off the coast of Brazil, from which they " went in quest of the Island of Auke's Magdeland (Hawkins's Maiden-land), but could find no such place."* They were equally unsuc- cessful in another attempt to identify the same island under the different name of St. Louis ; but on the 2l8t December they had the good fortune to see one, to which they gave the appellation of Belgia AustraUs, and in which, though they chose not to perceive it, they only rediscovered the Maiden- land and Isles of St. Louis. On the same day, one of the vessels was separated from her consorts in a violent storm. On the 10th March, Roggewein came in sight of the cctast of Chili,' and on the eighteenth anchored at Juan FeiKii|^dez, where he remained three weeks. On leaving this port he directed his course for Davi which, like Hawkins's Maiden-land, he failed to tra least affected not to recognise : pretending that he a new discovery, he exercised the privilege of a first visiter in bestowing on it a name, that of Paaschen, Oster or Easter Island. While they were sailing along the shore in search of anchorage, a native came off in his canoe, who was kindly treated, and presented with a piece of cloth and a variety of bawbles. He was naturally of a dark-brown complexion, but his body was painted all over with figures, and his ears were of a size so unnatural " that they hung down upon his shoul- ders," occasioned, as the Europeans conjectured, by the use of large and heavy ear-rings. " A glass of wine," says one of the journals of the voyage, " was given to him ; he took it, but, instead of drinking it, he^threw it in his eyes, which sur- prised us very much." He seemed so fascinated with the strangers that it was with difficulty he was prevailed on to depart ; — '* he looked at them with regret ; he held up both his hands towards his native island, and cried out in a very audible and distinct voice, ♦ Odorroga ! odorroga !* "t — ex- clamations which were supposed to be addressed to his god, from the many idols observed along the coast. * Dtlrymple, Hist. Coll., vol. ii., p. t Idem, vol. U., p. 90, 91. HE :>j;f t in preparing Is, the largest These sailed in November went in quest Maiden-land), equally unsuc- } island under 1st December they gave the , though they I the Maiden- y, one of the triolent storm, f the cQast of n Feiliibdez, Dav tnd, •r at he hacT made a first visiter 3ter or Easter B in search of 10 was kindly I a variety of nplexion, but lis ears were on his shoul- 1, by the use e," says one L ; he took it^ s, which sur- ed with the vailed on to leld up both )ut in a very ra!»»»t_ex- to his god, EIGHTEENTH CENTURY TO 6E0ROE III. 123 The succeeding day the discoverers anchored close to the island, and were immediately surrounded by many thousands of the inhabitants, some of whom brought with them fowls and provisions, while others '* remained on the shore, running to and fro from one place to another like wild beasts." They were also observed to make fires at the feet of their idols, as if to offer up their prayers and sacrifices before thenu On the following day, as the Hollanders were preparing to land, the savages were seen to prostrate themselves with their faces towards the rising sun, and to light many fires, apparently to present bumt-ofiferinffs to their divinities. Several of them went on board the win, among whom one man quite white was conjectured, from his devout and solemn gestures, to be a priest, and was distinguished by wearing white ear-rings of a round shape and of size equal to a man's fist. The sailors, upon returning this visit, commenced an attack, apparently unprovoked, on the natives, and by a heaw slaughter taught them the deadly efficacy of the musket. They are described as having " made the most surprising motions and gestures in the world, and viewed their fallen companions with the utmost astonishment, wondering at the wounds the bullets had made in their bodies." Though dismayed, they again rallied and advanced to within ten paces of their enemies, under an im- pression of safety, which a second discharge of firearms too fatally dissipated. Among those who fell was the individual that first came on board — a circumstance, says the journalist, " which chagrined us much." Shortly after, the vanquished returned and endeavoured to redeem the dead bodies of their countrymen. They approached in procession, carrying palm- branches and a sort of red and white flag ; and uttering dole- ful cries and sounds of lamentation ; they then threw them- selves on their knees, tendered their presents of plantains, nuts, roots, and fowls, and sought, by the most earnest and humble attitudes, to deprecate the wrath of the strangers. The historian represents his companions as so affected with all these demonstrations of humility and submission, that they made the islanders a present '' of a whole piece of painted cloth, fifty or sixty yards long, beads, small looking-glasses," &c. They returned to their ships in the evening with the intention to revisit the island on the succeeding day ; but this design was frustrated by a storm, which drove them from their anchors and obliged them to stand out into the open sea. 124 FROM THE BEGINNING OF THE B I :/ Woman or Easter Island. The inhabitants of Easter Island are described as being of a well-proportioned stature, though rather slender, of complex- ions generally brown, but, in some instances, of European whiteness. They delineate o» their bodies figures of birds and other animals ; and a great proportion of the females were '* painted with a rouge, very bright, which much surpas- ses that known to us ;*' and had dresses of red and white cloth, soft to the touch like silk, with a small hat made of straw or rushes. They were generally of a mild disposition, with a soft and pleasing expression of countenance, and so timid, that when they brought presents to the voyagers they threw the gifts at their feet, and made a precipitate retreat. Their ears, as already noticed, were so elongated as to hang down to their shoulders, and were sometimes ornamented with large white EIGHTEENTH CENTURY TO GEORGE III. 125 rings of a globular form. Their huts were about fifty feet long and seven broad, built of a number of poles cemented with a fat earth or clay, and covered with the leaves of the pahn-tree. They had earthen vessels for preparing their victuals, but pos- sessed few other articles of furniture. No arms were per- ceived among them, and their sole defence from the cruel hos- tilities of their visiters appeared to be reposed in their idols. These were gigantic pillars of stone, having on the top the fig- ure of a human head adorned with a crown or garland, formed of small stones inlaid with considerable skilV. The names of two of these idols have been preserved — Taurico and Dago ; and the Hollanders thought they perceived indications of a priesthood, the members of which were distinguished by their ponderous ear-rings, by having their heads shaven, and by wearing a bonnet of black and white feathers. The food of the inhabitants consisted entirely of the fruits of their land, which was carefully cultivated and divided into enclosures. No traces were found of a supreme chief or ruler, nor was any distinction of ranks observed, except that the aged bore staves, and had plumes on their heads, and that in families the oldest member appeared to exercise authority. It would be improper to pass without notice the fabulous account uf the immense stature of the natives, given, in one of the accounts of the voy- age, with the strongest protestations of its truth : — *' All these savages are of more than gigantic size ; for the men, being twice as tall and thick as the largest of our people, they meas- ured, one with another, the height of twelve feet, so that we could easily — ^who will not wonder at it ! — ^without stooping, have passed between the legs of these sons of Goliah. Ac- cording to their height, so is their thickness, and all are, one with another, very well proportioned, so that each could have passed for a Hercules." It is added, that the females do not altogether come up to these formidable dimensions, "being commonly not above ten or eleven feet !"* From Eastei Island the Dutchman pursued a course nearly northwest, and about the middle of May came in sight of an 4 -i * Dalrymple, voL ii., p. 1 13. "I doubt not," adds the Jonrnalist, " but moat pc iple who read this voyage will give no credit to what I now relate, and th&f. this account of the height of these giants will probably pass with them for a mere fiible or fiction ; but this I declare, that I have i>ut down nothing but the real truth, and that this people, upon the nicest inspection, were in fiict of such a surpassing height as I have here described." L2 ?/ ^ ■T.-Ti^ 126 FROM THE BEGINNING OF THE I i ft ) island to which he gave the name of Carls-hoff, which it still retains. After leaving this, one of his vessels suddenly ran aground and was wrecked, on a cluster of low islands, which he distinguished by the epithet of Schaadelyk or Pernicious. These are generally supposed to be identical with Palliser's Islands ; and modern voyagers seem to have observed in the vicinity traces of Roggewein's visit and shipwreck.* Among these he sailed five days, and on the 26th May discovered two small ones, probably the Bottomless and Fly Island of Schou- ten and Le Maire.f A few days later he perceived a group to which he gave the appellation of Irrigen or the Labyrinth ; and, continuing in the same westerly course, on the 1st of June reached an island wliich he denominated Verquikking or Recreation, and which is supposed to be Uliatea, one of the Society cluster — a conjecture rendered more probable by the tradition prevalent among the natives of their having been visited by Europeans. The navigators found their landing op- posed by the inhabitants, who were armed with pikes, and who did not withdraw their opposition until they were over- powered by firearms. On the succeeding day another con- flict ensued, when the event was different ; the invaders were obliged to retreat, after having some of their men killed and many severely wounded. The people are described as robust and tall, their hair long and black, their bodies painted, and their dress consisting of a kind of network round the waist. Shortly after quitting Recreation Island, it was determined, in a general council of officers, that to sail back by the course which they had traversed was impossible, and that they were therefore under the necessity of going home by the East In- dies. In accordance with this resolution, they continued to steer westward, and on the 15th of June reached a cluster of islands, which they called Bauman, supposed to be the Navi- gators' Isles of the present maps. From this point the track of Roggewein coincided too closely with that of Schouten and other discoverers to offer much of novelty or interest ; nor has this part of his voyage been very clearly nauated. The scurvy broke out among his crew and committed frightful rav- ages : " There was nothing," says a journalist of the voyage, " to be seen on board, but sick people struggUnj^ with inex- pressible pains, and dead carcasses that were just released * Bumey, Chron. Hist. Discov., vol. iv., p. 570. I See above, p. 90, 91. . ,.„, ,^ EIGHTEENTH CENTURY TO GEORGE III. 127 lereat ; nor from them, and from which arose so intolerable a smell, that such as yet remained sound were not able to endure, but fre- quently swooned with it. Cries and groans were perpetually ringing in their ears, and the very sight of the people moving about was sufficient to excite at once terror and compassion. In the month of September he arrived at Java, with the loss of not fewer than seventy men by sickness, besides those killed in his conflicts with the islanders ; and in October pro- ceeded to Batavia, where his ships were arrested by the Dutch East India Company, condemned, and sokl by public auction. The crews were sent home free of expense, and landed At Am- sterdam on the 28th July, " the very same day two years that they sailed on this voyage." Against these proceedings the West India Company sought redress in an appeal to the states general, who ordained the East India Company to make full compensation for the vessels— a decision which, when the judg- ment in the more favourable case of Schouten and Le Maire is considered, it may be not uncandid to suppose proceeded more from the superior influence of the appellants than from the array of legal arguments on their side. After the voyage of Roggewein, twenty years passed without producing one expedition to the Paciiic of the slightest importance. When war broke out between England and the Spaniards in 1739, among other measures adopted by ^he British admin- istration, it was resolved to send an armament into the South Seas to attack their trade and settlements in that part of the world, in the hope of cutting off the supplies which they de- rived from their colonies. The original plan of this expedi- tion was as magnificent as the actual equipment of it was It was intended that two squadrons should be de- mean. Satched, the one to proceed directly by the Cape of Good ope to Manilla, in the Philippines ; the other to double Cape Horn, and, after cruising along the western coast of South America, to jom the former, when both were to act in concert. But of this romantic scheme only one half was put in execu- tion ; and that, too, in a spirit of petty economy quite incon- sistent with the success of the enterprise. The attack on Manilla was abandoned, and the design limited to the fitting out of a few ships to cruise in the South Seas, under the com- mand of Captain Greorge Anson. This officer received his commission early in January, 1740 ; but so tardy were the proceedings of the government, that his 128 FROM THE BBOINNINO OF THB instructions were not delivered to him until the end of June ; and when in virtue of these he repaired to his squadron, in the expectation of being able to soil with the first fair wind, he found that he had to encounter difficulties which detained him nearly three months longer. Three hundred able seamen were wanting to complete the crews ; and in place of these, Com- modore Anson, after a tedious delay, was able to obtain only 170 men, of whom thirty-two were draughted from sick-rooms and hospitals, ninety-eight were marines, and three were in- fantry officers ; the remainder, amounting to thirty-seven, were regular sailors, it was part of the original plan to fur- nish the squadron with an entire regiment, and three independ- ent companies of 100 men each ; but this design was laid aside, and the ships were ordered to be supplied with 600 in- valids^ collected from the out-pensioners of Chelsea Hospital. These consisted of such soldiers as, from their age, wounds, or other infirmities, were incapable of serving ; and Anson re- monstrated against the absurdity of sending them on an expe- dition of so great length, and which must be attended by so many hardships and privations ; but his representations, though supported by those of Sir Charles Wager, only drew forth the answer, " that persons who were supposed to be better judges of soldiers than he or Mr. Anson, thou^t them the properest men that could be employed on this occasion."* This ad- * ** A Voyage roand the World in tlie years 1740-1-2-3-4, by George Anson, Esq., Commander^in-ohief of a fSquadron of his Majesty's Ships sent upon an Expedition to the South Seas. Compiled flrom Papers and other Materials of the Right Honourable Gewge Lord Anson, and pub- liRhed under his Direetion. By Richtnl Walter, M. A., Chaplain of bis Majesty's Ship the Centurion. London, 1748 " 4to, p. 6. This is the principal authority fbr the circuninaTigation or Anson, and has ever been popular and highly admired for thei>eauty of the narrative and vividness of the descriptions. In this last point, indeed, there is reason to ftar that accuracy is sacrificed to eflkct. An attempt was made to deprive Walter or the honour or this work, which is attributed to Benjamin Robins, F. R. 8., author of Mathematics! Tracts, London, 1761, 3 vols. 8vo, and other works. Th;is question has been amply dlscuseed ; but there ap- pears no decisive evioence of Robins's claim. Those who are anxious to enter into the diseussien may be referred to the prefhce, by James Wilson, to the Mathematical Tracts above mentioned ; to Nicholas Literary An- ecdotes of the Eighteenth Century, vol ii , p. 206; to the Biographia Bri- tannlca, voce Anson ; and to the Corrigenda and Addenda to that article inserted in the 4th volume of the work. Besides Waller's narrative, there appeared " A True and Impartial Journal of a Voyage to the South Seas, and round the Globe, in his Majesty's Ship the Centurion, under the Command of Commodore George Ansou. By Paseoe Thomas, I >» EIGHTEENTH CENTURY TO GEORGE III. 129 mitted of no reply, and the veterans were accordinffly ordered on board the squadron. Instead, however, of 600, there ap- Deared no more than 269 ; for all who were able to walk away nad deserted, leaving behind them only the very dress of their corps, men for the most part sixty years of age, and some of them upwards of seventy. The embarcation of these aged warriors is described as having been singularly affecting. Their reluctance to the service was visible in their countenances, on which were seen also apprehension of the dangers they were to encounter, and indignation at being thus dragged into an enterprise which they could no way assist, and in which, after ? 63) mention lier'a ▼oyage down< a hpeciflc ae* f th* ir valucL ." He adda^ 32,0(KU., that n§ in specie teemed t» tit EIGHTEENTH CENTVRY TO GEORGE III. 133 were to be added rings, gold watches, and jewels, besides what pillage fell into the hands of the individuals engaged in ihe attack. Walter mentions a report, that the inhabitants, in their representations to the Spanish court, estimated their loss at a million and a half of dollars. Two days after this exploit, Anson was joined by the Gloucester, which he found had also captured several prizes, having on board bullion to the amount of about 18,000/. It was now resolved to cruise off Cape San Lucas or Cape Corrientes for the Manilla galleon, and the squadron accord- ingly sailed in that direction. On the 5th December they anchored at the Island of Quibo, where they took in a supply of water, and remained about t;hree days, when they resumed their voyage to the northward. A succession of unfavourable weather rendered their progress so extremely slow, that they did not make the Mexican coast, a Uttle to the northwest of Acapulco, till the end of January. This was past the usual time of the galleon's appearance ; but Anson continued to sail along the coast in hopes of intercepting her till a late period in February, when he received mformation that she had arrived the previous month, about twenty days before he had reached the coast. This intelligence, iowever, was ac- companied with the more gratifying information, that she waa to leave Acapulco to return to Manilla in the beginning of March, and with a cargo infinitely more valuable than that which she had brought from the Philippines. The cruise, was therefore continued, and with increased strictness, every precaution being taken, and the most scrupulous vigilance observed, until long after the period fixed for her sailing, when the search was abandoned on the supposition, which afterward proved to be correct, that her departure was delayed for that year, on account of the English fleet. Thus disappointed, Anson formed the resolution of attack- ing Acapulco, and by that means possessing himself of the ob- ject of his wishes ; but this plan fell to the ground, and, leavt ing his cutter to watch the Manilla ship, he sailed for the har- bour of Chequetan, about thirty leagues westward, to obtain a supply of water. During his stay there, the different vessels which had been captured we/e destroyed ; and it was resolved near 33,000Z. eterling** (Appendix, p. 4). The exaggeratinf effbcts of s common rumour like this are too well knowu to be valued aa of any high authority. 1 i 136 FROM THE BEGINNING OF THE i A that the squadron, which now consisted of only two ships, the Centurion and Gloucester, should quit the South Seas and sail for China. Various accidents, however, contributed to postpone their departure, and it was not until the 6th of May that they lost sight of the mountains of Mexico. They expe- rienced much difficulty in getting into the track of the trade- winds, which they expected to reach in a few days, but did not meet until aeven or eight weeks afti r leaving the coast. This disappointment pressed on them the more severely, owing to the crazy condition into which their ships had now fallen^ more particularly the Gloucester, which sailed very heavily. The scurvy, too, agsiin made its appearance, and raged with a violence little less fatal than that which had marked its attacks in the passage round Cape Horn. Though the trade-wind had Constantly favoured tnern from the end of June to the latter part of July, their progress, owing to the distressed con- dition of the crews, had been so very slow, that by their reckoning they were still 300 leagues from the Ladrones. At this time they met with a westerly breeze, succeeded by ^ violent storm, which so damaged the Gloucester as to render her abandonment necessary. Two days were employed in re- moving her crew and part of her stores on board the Centu- rion ; and, on the 15th of August, she was set on fire, to pre- vent her falling into the hands of the Spaniards, to whom the valuable prize-goods on board would have rendered her a wel- come acquisition. " She burnt," says Walter, " very fiercely the whole night, her guns firing successively as the flames reached them ; and it was six in the morning, when we were about four leagues distant, before she blew up; the report she made upon this occasion was but a small one, but there was an exceeding black pillar of smoke, which shot up into the air to a very considerable height."* Though rc-enforced by the additional crew, Anson had still to struggle with diffi- culty and distress. The late storm had drifted him from his course ; there was a leak in his vessel which it was found im-. possible to stop ; and the scurvy raged with such violence, that no day passed in which he did not lose eight or ten, and sometimes twelve of the ship's company. At length, at daybreak of the 23d, two islands were discov- ered to the westward—" a sight which," says Walter, " gave ♦ Walter, p. 300, ' BS thi EIGHTEENTH CENTURY TO OEOROE III. 137 (i gave ■8 all great joy, and raised our drooping spirits ; for before this a universal dejection had seized us, and we almost de- spaired of ever seeing land again.'* These proved to be two of the Ladrones ; but the exhausted seamen remained in sight of them three days without bemg able to come to anchor. On the 26th three others were discovered, and the ship's course was directed towards the one in the centre, which was ascertained to be the Island of Tinian. They moored here on the evening of the 28th, and the next day proceeded to land their sick — a labour in which Anson here, as at Juan Fernan- dez, personally assisted. The accounts which the journalists have left us of this island represent it in the most favourable colours ; they dwell on its sunny slopes and gentle declivities —the beauty of its lawns — the luxuriance of its flowers and vegetation — the grandeur of its forests, and the richness and variety of its frmt-trees. " The fortunat-^ animals, too," it is added, " which for the greatest part of the year are the sole lords of this happy soil, partake in some measure of the roman- tic cast of the island, and are no small addition to its wondet- ful scenery ; for the cattle, of which it is not uncommon to see herds of some thousands feeding together in a large mead* ow, are certainly the most remarkable in the world ; for they are all of them milk-white, except their ears, which are gen- erally black. And though there are no inhabitants here, yet the clamour and frequent parading ol domestic poultry, which range the woods in great numbers, perpetually excite the ideas of the neighbourhood of farms and villages, and greatly contribute to the cheerfulness and beauty of the place."* At this pleasant island Anson remained until the 21st of October, when, the health of his crew having been restored, and the vessel supplied with fresh provisions, he set sail for Macao in China, where he arrived on the 12th of November. The five months which he passed here were employed in refit- ting his shattered ship and still farther confirming the health of his men. He added also to their number some Lascars * Walter, p. 309. After ths^ lapne of nearly a century, t memoriiil of Anson'ii sojourn at Tinian has been lately brousbt to light. By the Nau- tical Magasine for July, 1834 (vol. ili., p. 4'29), it appears that *' a whaler iately,on weiffhing her anchor at the iHland of Tinian, hooked up the an- chor of the Centurion of Mguns,^which was lost by ibat ship in ths {ear 1742, when (Joinrnodore Anson touched there to renresh his crew. I was coin|>aratively little corroded, having on a thick coat of rust ; tlks woodsQ stock was completsly rotted oir.* M8 I 138 FROM THE BE6INNIM0 OF THE \ K s iind Dutch, and was once more in a condition to resume hos- tilities. On leaving Macao, he gave out that he was bound for Bata- tavia, on his homeward voyage for England ; but his real de- sign was very di£ferent. From the sailing of the Manilla gal- leon of the previous year having been prevented by his appear- ance off Acapulco, he calculated that this season there would be two ; '•JoA. he resolved to cruise off the Island of Samal, in the hopa of intercepting so rich a prize. This design he had entertained ever since h^ left the coast of Mexico, but had prudently abstained from revealing it. When his ship, how- ever, was once fairly at sea, he summoned the whole crew on deck, and informed them of his intentions. In allusion to some absurd fables which prevailed regarding the strength of the Manilla ships, and their being impenetrable to cannon- shot, he said he trusted there were none present so weak as to believe such a ridiculous fiction ; " for his own part, he did assure them upon his word, that whenever he met with them, he would fight them so near, that they should find his bullets, instead of being stopped by one of their sides, should go through them both."* The station on which Anson had determined to cruise was the Cape Espiritu Santo, part of the Island of Samal, and he arrived there on the 20th of May. After a month spent in the greatest impatience and anxiety, a general joy was dif<- fused among the crew by the sight of a sail at sunrise of the 20th June. They instantly stooid towards it, and by mid*day were within a league's distance — ^the galleon, to their surprise, continuing in her course, and bearing down upon them. The fight was commenced by Anson, who, in order to embarrass the Spaniards, whom he observed busy in clearing their decks, gave directions to fire, though his previous orders had been not to engage kill within pistol-shot. Immediately after he took up an {advantageous position, by which he was able to traverse the most oi his guns on the enemy, who could only bring part of theirs to bear, At the commencement of the battle, part of the netting and mats of the galleon took fire ; but, upon beii^g extinguished, the light continued with una- bated determination. Symptoms of disorder, however, were soon observed on board tne merchantman; their general, ♦ WaItMr,p.37J. EIGHTEENTH CENTURY TO GEORGE III. 139 ** who was the life of the action," was disabled, and the men could hardly be prevailed on to remain at their posts. Their last effort was marked by the discharge of five or six guiis with more skill than usual ; when, as a signal that the contest was abandoned, the standard of Spain was struck from the mast-head — the ship*s colours having been burnt in the en- gagement. The treasure in specie found on board the prize has been estimated at upwards of 300,000/. sterling. Anson at the same time leameo that the other had set sail much earlier than usual, and was most probably moored in t^e port of Manilla long before he had reached Sama:l. As nothing was now to be gained by remaining among the Philippines, he at once set sail for the river of Canton, where he arrived about the middle of July, and remained until the beginning of December. The homeward passage was not at- tended with any remarkable event ; and on the 15th June, 1744, after an absence of three years and nine months, the Centurion anchored at Spithead. General joy was difiused through the nation by the return of the expedition, diminished thou^ it was both in men and ships ; and the treasure taken from the galleon was carried through the streets to the Tower in thirty-two wagons, in the same manner as the silver taken by Blake. The distress which was experienced on board this squadron is to be ascribed solely to the ill-judged measures which were adopted in its equipment ; while the unflinching perseverance and courage displayed by l;he seamen, and the intrepidity and prudence of the commander, are worthy of a place in the brightest page of the naval annals of our country.* The disastrous fate of the Wager, one of the ships which ?ut to sea under Lord Anson, has been already alluded to. n addition to the suffering?, endured by the rest of the fleet in their stormy passage round Cape Horn, her crew were dis- r, were eneral, * A curious illustration of the big[li opinion entertained of the conduct of Anson's expedition will be found in the " Journal of a Cruise mnde to the Paeiflc Ocean, by Captain David Porter, in the United States flrigate Essex, in the years 1812, 1813, and 1814. 2 vols. Svo. Philadelphia, 1815." Captain Porter informs us, that the fame of Anson served only to " rouse his ambition," and as an incentive " to make the name of th« Essex as well known in the Pacific Ocean as that of the Centurion ;" and be gives it as his ppioion^ that " the voyage of the Essex ought oot to yield the palm to those of Anson and Cook," 140 FROM THE BEGINNING OF THE * « pirited by evil omens and enperstitious fears. The captatai who commanded them when they left England died ere they reached the Straits of Le Maire, and it was currently ru- mouredf both among officers and seamen, that shortly before ' his death he had predicted, " that this voyage, which both officers and sailors nad engaged in with so much cheerfulness and alacrity, would prove, in the end, very far from their ex> pectations, notwithstanding the vast treasure they imagined to gain by it ; that it would end in poverty, vermin, famine, death, and destruction."* These gloomy forebodings appear to have deeply impressed all on board — more especially as the defective equipment of the vessel rendered their fulfilment too probable. She was separated from the squadron in the end of April ; upon which Captain Cheap, in obedience to his oirders, immeaiately proceeded to search for the appointed rendezvous— the Isle of Socorro. On the 14th of May it was discovered that the vessel was driving right on shore, and though her course was instantly altered aira every precaution used, the next morning at day« break she struck on a hidden rock, and grounded between two small islands about a gunshot from the beach. The scene which ensued was of the most revolting nature, and the deseription which has been left of it by the Honourable John Byron, then a midshipman on board, is, perhaps, little inferior in real horror and sublimity to the most imaginative conceptions of his noble grandson.t The ship held together for a considerable period, and the whole crew might have got * A Voyage to tb« Sooth fieas, in the years 1740-1. By John Balkely and John Cumtnim, lite gunner and carpenter of the Wager. Second edition. London, 1757, p. 5. t Narrative of the Honoarable^John Byron, being an Aeoount of the Shipwreck of the Wager, and the euhaeqoent Adventures at her Crew. Written by Himieir. The editor of the late edition of Byron*a works, in tracing the poet'e imitationa, appears to have overlooked a passage in the Narrative which may have snggested the lines— " Then abriek'd the timid, and stood still the bi9ve— Then »ome Uap'd merboard with dreadful yell, A* tager to anticipate their grave.** Don Juan, eanto ii., st. 5S. The fUlowing aentenoe oecurs in Commodore Byron's Narrative:—" 8e terrible wss the acene of foaming breakera around un, that one of the bravest men we had could not help expreasing hia diamay at it, saying it was too ahocking a eight to bear, and wndd have throum hlmteff omT the raU$ of the quartir^bek into th£ sea bad he not been prsvsoted.**-* 8seaiul«&ioa,p.M. Balkely Second ■t.59. e:— "So ortiM , Miyinf ■oted."^ EIGHTEENTH CENTURY TO GEORGE III. 141 ** to the land in safety, had not many, in the phrensy of despair and intoxication, obstinately refused to quit her. Among the miserable beings who reached the shore, heart- burnings and dissensions speedily appeared ; and the history of their abode on this desolate coast is one wearisome suc- cession of insubordination, discord, and crime. After five months thus consumed, during which, out of about 140* who were shipwrecked, no fewer than fifty died, the long-boat was at last converted into a schooner ; and on board of her and the ship's cutter, seventy -one of the survivers departed, in order to proceed to Brazil by the Straits of Magellan. Thirty survived to reach Rio Grande, about the end of Jan- uary, 1742 ; nineteen were abandoned to their fate on differ- ent parts of the coast, only three of whom survived to reach Europe; and twenty-two perished, chiefly through hunger and fatigue. Among the twenty who remained on the coast where the Wager was wrecked was the captain, who had been made prisoner by part of his crew, and was left there at his own desire. Cheap and his unfortunate companions de- termined to proceed northward in the barge and yawl, which had been left to them. The hardships they experienced made frightful havock among their little band; only six of whom, after a series of almost unparalleled sufferings, arrived at the ' Island of Chiloe.t The melancholy fate of the Wager led to an important sd- teration in the laws of our naval service Much of the crime and misery was justly attributed to the circumstance that the pay of a ship's company ceased immediately upon her wreck ; and a rule was in consequence established " that, in future, * These numbers are stated as the nearest approximation to the troth which can be made. The difTerent narratives give very contradictory accounts of the numbers. Burney (Chron. Hist. Discov., vol. v., p. 91) makes the number on board at the date of the shipwreck 130, and states (vol. v., p. 101) that at 24th June forty-flve had died and seven deserted, which reduces the whole at that time to seventy-eight. Yet afterward (vol. v., p. 100), he states that in October the number remaining, inclu- ding tM seven deserters, was ninety-two. Bolkely makes the number shipwrecked 153. Byron rates them at 145. t Captain King, in the course of the survey which be made of (ht southern extremity or the American continent in the years 1826-7-8-9-30, discovered, near the west end of the easternmost ofthe Guaineco Islands, the beam of a vessel, which there is reason to believe was a relic of the unfortunate Wager. From this circumstance, he bestowed upon the island the name of that ship.— Journal of the Royal Geographical So* - ciety, vol. i., p. 159. } - 148 CIRCUMNAVIGATIONS OF every person entering into the service of his majesty's navy •hould be held attached to that service, and be entitled to the pay, maintenance, or emoluments belonging to his station, un- til such time as he should be re^larly discharged by an ordei of the Admiralty or of bis superior officer.*'* CHAPTER VI. Circumnavigations of Byron, Wallis, and Carteret. Voyage of Byron.— Its Objects.— Vain Searcb for Pepys' Island.— Dis> o(i?ery or the Islands or Disappointment, King George, Prince of Wales, Danger, and Duke of York.— Circuninavigations or Wallis and Carteret.- Tbeir Seiiaration.— Wallis discovers the Islsnds of Whitsunday, Queen Charlotte, Cgmoitt, Cumberland, and Oanaburg. —Arrives at Otaheiie.— Transactions there.— Satis Tor Tinian.— Car- teret discovers Pitcairn's Island.- SantaCruzorQueenCharlotie's IsN ands.- The Solomons.— Si. George's Channel and New Ireland.— New Hanover.— Arrives at Spitbead. England had hitherto held only a secondary place in the annals of maritime enterprise. Spain and Portugal, which iirst occupied the field, had achieved the great discoveries of the American continent, the Pacific Ocean, and the passage to India by the Cape of Good Hope. At the end of the six- teenth century, the empire of the deep passed to Holland. After a short and brilliant career, the spirit of adventure began to languish, and continued nearly 100 years almost en- tirely dormant, when it ag^in broke forth in Britain with a strength and lustre which have procured for that country, as the liberal promoter of geographical science, an equal, if not superior rank to any nation of ancient or of modem times. We have now arrived at the reign of George HI., a period which will ever be memorable for the value and extent of its discoveries, effected, as has been justly remarked, " not with a view to the acquisition of treasure, or the extent of dominion, * Bumey, Chron. Hist. Discov., vol. ii., p. 127, 129. We have now 10 take leave of this valuable ^nd important work, and cannot do so with out an acknowledgment of the great assistance which it has afibrded US. BYRONt WALLI8, AND CARTXRET. 143 hut the improvement of commerce and the increase and difiu* aion of knowledse.** The love of science and the geograph* icai learning which the young monarch himself possessed^ secured a favourable hearing to every undertaking for explo* ring new lands ; and the design which for this purpose he had formed immediately after his accession, he proceeded to put in execution so soon as the peace of 1763 left his mind free from the cares of war. The views which were entertained in the equipment of his first expedition are briefly expressed in th» instructions delivered to the commodore, a document which deserves to be quoted for its elevated sentiments ; " Where^ as nothing can redound more to the honour of this nation, as a maritime power, to the dignity of the crown of Great Brit* ain, and to the advancement of the trade and navigation thereof, than to make discoveries of countries hitherto un« known ; and whereas there is reason to believe that lands and islands of great extent, hitherto unvisited by any European power, may be found in the Atlantic Ocean, between the Cape of Good Hope and the Magellanic Streight, within the latitudes convenient for navigation, and in climates adapted to the produce of commodities useful in commerce; and whereas his majesty's islands called Pepys* Island and Falk- land's Islands, lying within the said tract, notwithstanding their having been finit discovered and visited by British nav-> igators, have nev^r yet been so sufficiently surveyed^ that an accurate judgment may be formed of their coasts and pro' duct; his majesty, taking the premises into consideration* and conceiving no conjuncture so proper for an enterprise of this nature as a time of profound peace, which his kingdoms at present happily enjoy, has thought fit that it should now be und(Brtdten.*** * An Ae«oant of the Voyages undertaken by the order of Us orawBt Majesty for makinf DIacoTeries in the Soathera Hemiapbere. Drawn Ap flrom the Joutnala of the Commandera, and (torn the papers of Joseph Ranks, Eaq. By John Hawkeawof th, Lfi.D. London, 177S. StoIs. 4to. General Introduetion, p. i., ii. Thia work is tlie chief anthority (br the three voyagea narrated in the present chapter. Its pnblicatim was Hital to the author's character. The dangerous tendency of his views on reli* |ion, the gratuitous lubricity of hie deacriptions, and hia groni and slov* only inaccuracy, at once excited a stoitn of popular iBdlgnstlont In which perished ali the honour and raputation gained by hts pravious writings. He waa ambitioua to make his book " another Anson's Vby' age;** but he has imitated that lively and apirlted namtivs in no raspeec but in inattoatlon to the atrietneos of truth Re v^ eqgaged to under 144 CIRCUMNAVIOATIONB OF These instructions were dated the 1 7th of June, 1764, and on the third of July the squadron sailed from Plymouth. It consisted of two ships — the Dolphin of twenty-four guns, manned by 150 men and forty-one officers; and the Tamaiy carrying sixteen guns, with a crew of ninety seamen and twenty-six officers. The first of these vessels was sheathed with copper, the better to prepare her for the voyage, and it said to have been the first ship so furnished in the British navy. The command of the expedition was intrusted to the Honourable John Byron, whose sufferings, when a midship- man on board of the Wager, have been already alluded to. From that disastrous enterprise he returned to his native coun- try at the age of twenty-two, and having gone through the various steps of promotion, luid now attained the rank of post- captain. The greatest secrecy was preserved as to the pre- cise object) in view ; and so far was this carried, that the sea- men were enfifagcd to sail for the East Indies. They were not undeceived as to their real destination until the 22d of October, when, after leaving Hio Janeiro, they were called on deck and informed that they were bound on a voyage of dis- covery, in consequence of which they were all to be allowed double pay. This intelligence was received with the greatest joy imaginable, and their course was shaped towards the coast of Patagonia. They arrived at Port Desire on the 2l8t of November, and remained there until the 5th of the next month, when^ having completed their supplies, they sailed in search of Pepya' Island — one of the chief objects set forth in their instructions. The land, to which this name was given in honour of the celebrated Secretary Pepys, was supposed to have been discovered, as has been already stated, in 1684, by the bucaniers under Cook,an the latitude of forty-seven de- Srees and forty minutes.* Afler cruising in search of it six ays, Byron, being now certain that no such land existed in the situation laid down by the editor of Cowley's Journal, de>- termined again to return to the American continent, keeping a look-out for the islands of Sibald de Weert, which, by aS the charts he had on board, could not be far from his track.f The hopes which seem to have been cherished of finding in these regions a mild climate were now dissipated, and it wa» take lln work by Lord Sandwich, the first lord of the Admiralty, and hi* •wvioM wen» remunerated by the munificent sum of 600(U. * 8ce aboTO, p. 1 1 K f Hawkesworth's ColL , vol. i., p. Sb. BYRON, WALLI8, AND CARTSRBT. 145 Agreed by all, that, except in the length of the day, there wa» no difference between the height of summer here and the depth of winter in England. After a storm, which, the com- modore declares, surpassed any he experienced in weathering Cape Horn with Anson, he arrived at the entrance of the Straits of Magellan, where he anchored in the vicinity of Cape de las Virgenes. A number of horsemen were perceived riding backward and forward on the coast opposite the ship, and waving something of a white colour, as if inviting the voyagers to land. Two boats were accordingly manned, and as they drew near the shore they observed about 600 people, the greater part of whom were on horseback, waiting tneir approach, still ma- king signals and hallooing with great vociferation. No weap- ons were seen among them; but Byron, notwithstanding, considered it prudent to intimate by signs that they shoula^ retire to some distance, a request with which they instantly complied. As soon as he landed he drew up the boats* crewe on the beach, and having civen orders that none of them should leave their ranks until he called or beckoned on them to do so, he advanced alone towards the savages. These continuing to retreat as he approached, he made signs that one of them should come near, when an individual from among their leaders walked towards him. **This chief,*' says he, " was of a gigantic stature, and seemed to realize the tales of monsters in a numan shape ; he had the skin of some wild beast thrown over his shoulders, as a Scotch Highlander wears his plaid, and was painted so as to make the most hide- ous appearance I ever beheld; round one eye was a larffe circle of white, a circle of black surrounded the other, and tne^ rest of his face was streaked with paint of different colours. I did not measure him, but if I may judge of his height by the proportion of his stature to my own, it could not be n»uoh less than seven feet."* With " this frightful colossus,** as the commodore terms him, he walked towards the natives, who, at his request intimated by signs, sat down, when he present- ed them with beads, ribands, and other trinkets, all which they received with becoming composure. He describes the whole of them as "enormous eoblins," and adds, that " few of the men were less than the chief who had coom torward to * Hawkesworth's Coll., vol. i., p. ^ N 146 ■It'iSV CIRCVMNAyiGATI0!18 OF meet me.*' His lieutenant, Mr. Gumming, "though six feet two inches high, became at once a pigmy amonff giants ; for these people may indeed more properly be called giants than tall men.** Another account of the voyage, professing to be written by an officer of the Dolphin,* says of these savages, such was their extraordinary size, that when sitting they were almost as high as the commodore when standing ; and adds, that Byron, though he measured fully six feet, ** and stood on tiptoe, could but just reach the crown of one of the Indians* heads, who was not by far the tallest among them.*' — " The women,*' it is said, " seemed to be from seven and a half to eight feet high ; but the men were for the most part about nine feet in height, and some more.** The stature of Lieu- tenant Gumming seems to have recommended him to the h,* ▼our of these savages, some of whom, we are told, " patted him on the shoulder ; but their hands fell with such force that it'dfected his whole frame.'* That these statements much exaggerate the size of the people on the Magellanic Straits there can be little doubt, while it is equally certain, on the other hand, that they are not without some foundation, f By- ron*s own statement makes them less than seven feet, and even this he does not give as the result of actual measure- ment, but as the conclusion he came to from comparing his own figure with that of the chief. Making allowance for the un- certainty attending such a mode of computation, there seems to be no ground for questioning the veracity of the commodore, though the stories in the anonymous account are evidently fab- ulous. Lieutenant Gumming, who acts so prominent a part in these relations, when afterward questioned on the subject, evinced some reluctance to enter on the discussion ; " but at * A Voyage round the World in his M^esty's Ship the Dolphin, com* manded by the Honourable Commodore Byron. By an Officer on board the said Ship. London, 1767. P. 44-53. t See Lives and Voyages 6f Drake, Cavendish, and Dampier, p. lOL note. Mr. Weddel (Voyage towards the South Pole, in the years 1833-24, London, 18S5) thinlu " that those with whom Commodore Byrun com< munieated were probably chielb ; but it is more than probable that this tribe, of whatever size, were not inhabitants or the shore, but or the interior, and (tarn the country fltrther to the northward, and oT course seldom, perhaps never, on the shores cf the Straits when any vessels touched there, since that time." He adds, that more northern Patago- Bians had been seen by his officers, •' who described them to be gsBeraily abottt six Aet high, well proportioned, and appearing upon ths whole above the ordinary siie."— P. 300. BYRON, WALLI8, AND CARTERET. 147 length it was partly gathered and partly extorted from him, that had the occurrence taken place anywhere else than at Patagonia, they should have set them down as good sturdy savages, and thought no farther about them.'** Byron now sailed up the Straits as far as Port Famine, to procure a supply of wood and water before he proceeded to search for the Falkland Islands. It was the month of Decem- ber, the midsummer of these regions, and their wild shores were clothed with a luxuriance of vegetation. The voyagers ob- served the ground covered with flowers of various hues, which loaded the air with their fragrance ; innumerable clusters of ber- ries glistened on the bushes ; amid the rich grass and pea-blos- soms there were seen feeding large flocks of birds of uncom- mon bei^';s^/; and forests grew by the banks of the rivers, abounding with trees fit to be masts for the largest ships in the British navy. Woods spread up the sides of the hills from the water's edge ; but the mountains farther inland were bleak and bare, and their rugged summits, covered with snow, were seen towering high above those nearest the shore. Drift-wood was also found in large quantities. After a short stay the vessels completed their stores, and on the 4th of January, 1765, weighed anchor and steered back through the Straits. On the 11th, high, craggy, barren rocks were observed, much resembling Staten Land; innumerable quantities of seals and birds were remarked, and many whales approached the ships, some of them of a very great size. On the 15th a harbour was discovered, so capacious that the whole navy of England might ride in it ; to which, in honour of the first lord of the Admiralty, the name of Port E^ont was given. By- ron now became convinced that the islands he had reached were the Pepys' Island of Cowley, the Maiden-land of Haw- kins, and the Falklands of later geographers ; and under this last name he took possession of them for the British crown, a ceremony which, it has been remarked, the tenour of his in- Btructioos rendered superfluous. On leaving this group, he * This anecdote appears in a Memoir of the Hononrable Jobn Byron, Sraflxed to an edition of bio narrative publisbed at Edinburgh in 1813 by ohn Bailantyne A Co. Mr. Camming's statement was made to the late Captain Robert Scott of Sosebanic, uncle of Sir Walter Scott. "The writer of this memoir,** it is said, "had the pleasure of Captain Scott's personal acquaintanoe, flrom whom he bad this anecdote."— P. 80. 148 CIRCUMNAVIGATIONS OP atood towards Port Desire, where he met the store-ship which had been despatched from England with provisions. He then returned to the Straits, to pass into the South Sea ; which, however, he did not reach till the beginning of April, the pas- sage having occupied seven weeks and two days. With the view of preserving secrecy, the Island of Mas- afuera had been selected as a watering-place in preference to that of Juan Fernandez ; but a heavy surf which broke on its rocky shore prevented him from obtaining a full supply. Hence Byron steered nearly due north, until he attained the latitude of 26° 46', when he changed his course to the west- ward, in order to bear down upon Davis's Land or Easter Island ; but, finding his progress slow, he sailed to the north- wMt, in order to profit by the trade-wind. On the morning of the 7th of June, he was in the latitude of 14° 6' south, and longitude 144° 68' west, when he discovered two islands, to the smaller of which he directed his prow. As he drew near, it presented the most beautiful appearance ; the sea broke upon a beach of the finest white sand, and the interior was covered with tall trees grouped into delightful groves. Many of the natives, armed with spears, appeared on the strand, where they lighted several fires, apparently as signals; for similar tokens instantly blazed upon the other island. A boat was despatched to search for anchorage, but returned without having found any. The scurvy had by this time made dread- ful havoc among the crews, and such of the sick as were able to crawl on d'^ck '' stood gazing at this little paradise, which nature had forbidden them to enter ;" where they saw cocoanuts hanging fvom the trees in laige clusters, the shores strewed with the shells o^ turtle, while the wind wafted to them the fragrance of the finest fruits. As no anchoring- ground was found near the other island, the captain was com- pelled to quit these inaccessible shores, on which he bestowed the name of Disappointment. The natives were of a deep copper-colour, well proportioned in their limbs, and of great activity and vigour. On the evening of the 9th, land was again descried, and, on more minute examination, was ascertained to consist of two islands, which, in honour of his majesty, were called King George's. While the boats sailed along the coast of cne of them in search of anchorage, the hostile intentions of the natives were so clearly manSested that it was deemed wi Ull chj BYRON, WALLI89 AKD CARTBRBT. 149 BecefHMry to fire. Two or three of them were slain ; one of whom, ener being pierced hj three balls, seized a large stone, and died in the act of throwing^ it againct his enemy, No an- chorage was discovered ; but it vrw nevertheless thought ex- pedient to land part of the crews, in order to procure a supply of cocoanuts and scurvy-grass. As the people had fled, their dwellings were totally deserted, except by their dogs, which kept up an incessant howling as long as the seamen continued on shore. In the neighbourhood of the huts, beneath the thick shade of lofty trees, were observed stone buildings, which, from their description, seem to have atmiewhat resembled the cromlechs of the ancient Qritons, and were conjectured to be burying-places. When the boats drew near to the shore of the other island, n old man of a venerable appearance, and wearinff a long uh- I' ard, accompanied by a youth, came forward from the > v, of savages. He appeared to be a chief, and in one h»uu neld the green branch of a tree, while with the other he pressed his beard to his bosom, and in this attitude commenced a long oration, the periods of which had a musical cadence by no means disagreeable. During this cnpeech the people in the boats threw him several presents, but these he would not suffer to be touched until he had finished his harangue ; upon which, advancing into the water, he threw the green brancn to the seamen, and then picked up their gifts. Encouraged by these friendly signs, one of the mid- sh^ipmen swam through the surf to the shore, and several of the natives came on to the boats, bringing with them cocoa* nuts and fresh water. This island lies in latitude 14° 41% and longitude 149° 16'. On quitting it Byron ptood to the westward, and in Uie afternoon of me next day discovered a small island, of a green and pleasant appearance, but surrounded by many rocks and islets, which occasioned dreadful breakers. It appearing, however, to be inhabited, was named after the Prince of Wales; and is now believed to be the same with the Fly Island of Schouten and Le Maire.* While in this vicini^ the commodore became in^pressed with the opinion that land existed not far to the south, as well from the discontinuance of a heavv swell M^h had prevailed for some time, as from the vast nocks of birds which, as evening closed in, always * 0se absvs, p. 91. N2 150 CIRCUMNATIOATIONS OF took thoir flight in that direction. The unhealthy state of hit crew, however, prevented him from going in search of it ; and the discovery of Otaheite and the Society Isles was, accord- ingly, reserved for the more auspicious fortune of Wallis. Byron's course was now directed northwestward ; and, after having sailed more than 300 leagues, he observed, on the 21st of June, a cluster probably identical wilh the San Bernardo of Mendana,* which, from the shoals and stormy sea that for- bade approach to them, he denominated the Islands of Dan- ger. 1 nree days later, while pursuing liis course in a west- erly direction, he perceived another island, to which he gave the name of the Duke of York ; and on the 2d of July, in lat- imde 1° 18' south, longitude 173° 46' east, he approached one, low and flat, but well covered with wood. About 1000 natives appeared on the beach, and more than sixty canoes pulled otf from the shore, and ranged themselves round the ships. The savages were tall and well formed ; their com- plexion a bright copper colour ; their hair long and black, in 'wae tied up behind in a great bunch, in others arr&nged into throe knots ; their features good, and marked by an expression of cheerful intrepidity. They were perfectly naked, wearing nothing on their persons but some ornaments of shells on their necks, wrists, and waists. One, who appeared to be a chief, had a string of human teeth round his body. Their arms consisted of a kind of spear, broad at the end, and stuck full of shark^s teeth as sharp as lancets. One of these savages swam to the ship and ran up the side like a cat, and havmg stepped over the gunwale sat down on it and hurst into a vio- lent fit of laughter, then started up and ran all over the ship, attempting to steal evcry^ thing that came in his way. A jacket aiKl tro\isers were put upon him, and his gestures, which were like those " of a monkey newly dressed," pro- duced much merriment among the seamen ; and, after playing a thousand antic tricks, he leaped overbdard, and swam in his new garments to his canoe. Finding it impossible to procure refreshments for the sick, the ships were obliged to make sail from this place, which was named Byron's Island. 0:^1 the 30th of June tho squadron came in sight of Tinian, and on the 81st anchored in the very same spot where Lord Anson fofmerly lay with the Centurion. The aspect of * P«e above, p. 69. 01 ■"^'h- BYRON, WALLI8, AND CARTBRBT. 151 thtngi was to them, however, Very different from the high- wrought (leRcription of the former voyage. " I am indeed of ' opinion," says the commodore, " that this is one of the most unhealthy spots in the world, at least during the season in which we were hero. The rains were violent and almost inces- sant, and the heat was so great as to threaten us with suffo- cation. . . . We were incessantly tormented by the flies in the day, and by the moschotoes in the night The island also swarms with centipedes and scorpions, and a large black ant scarcely inferior to cither in the malignity of its bite. Besides these there were venomous insects without number, al- together unknown to us, ,bv which many of us suffered so se- verely that weiwere afraid to lie down in our beds."* Till the period of his arrival there, not one of the crew had died ; but while at that island two were lost in a fever ; those afflicted with the scurvy, indeed, recovered very quickly. He stayed nine weeks, when, the health of his crew being re-established and a stock of provisions laid in, he proceeded to Batavia, where he remained until the 10th of December, at which time he sot sail for England. An accident having happened to the Tamar which rendered it necessary that she 'mould run down to Antigua to be repaired, the vessels partea com- pany on the 1st of April, 1766 ; and on the 7th of May the Dolphin made the islands of Scilly, after a voyago of some- thing more t an two-and-twcnty months. In little ni o than three monthr after the return of Com- modore Byron, mother expedition was sent out to prosecute the same general design of making discoveries in the southern hemisphere. It consisted of the Dolphin, which was equipped as before, and of the Swallow, a sloop mounting fourteen guns, with a complement of ninety men, besides twenty-four officers. The latter was commanded by Captain Philip Car- teret ; while Captain Samuel Wallis, wh^ hoisted his pendant in the Dolphin, was intrusted with the general superintend- ence of the enterprise. The vessels sailed from Plymouth on the 22d August, 1766, attended by a store-ship, which, after landing her cargo at Po; t Famine, proceeded with a load of drift-wood and young t ees for the use of a British colony established that year at Port Egmont in the Falkland Islands. On the 16th of December they anchored near Cape de las * Hawkesworth'i Coll., vol. I, p. 118. 152 CIRCUMNAYiaATIONS OF »,,:• Virgenes, at the eastern entrance of the Straits of Magellan. Several of the natives were observed riding along the beach abreast of the ship, and during the night they made great fires and frequently shouted very loud. In the morning some boats were manned and stood towards the shore, where, hav- ing landed, Wallis distributed several trinkets to the savages, and took an opportunity of ascertaining their height by actual measurement. One of them was sue fleet seven inches ; several reached six feet and a half ; and the average of their stature, according to him, was from five feet ten to six feet ; while Carteret says, " th^ were in general all from six feet to six feet five inches. "* In the afternoon of the same day they entered the Straits, and on the 26th arrived at Port Famine, where they remained till the middle of January, 1767 ; the sick being sent on shore, and tents erected on the banks of the Sedffer River. Their passage thence was so stormy and tedious that they did not reach the westem mouth of die Straits till the 11th of April, "after," says the author, "hav« ing been for near four months in a dreary resion, where we were in almost perpetual danger of shipwreck, and where in the midst of summer the weather was cold, gloomy, and temK pestuous."t On the very day that they entered the South Sea the two vessels parted company, and did not again meet. Captain Wallis, who held his course to the northwest, suf- fered much from the severity of the climate and the attacks of the scurvy. At length, on the 3d of June, several ganete were seen, which, along with the variableness of tjie winds, led to the hope that land was not far distant. The next day a turtle swam past the ship ; many birds were seen on the 5th ; and on tho succeedins noon the sight of a low island at the distance of five or six leagues dififused universal joy on board. As they dr^w near,*^a second was descried to the northwestward, and two canoes were seen paddling quickly from the one to the other. The shores were examined in vain for an anchorage ; but the boats which landed procured * ** A Letter fVom Philip Cart«rat, Esq., Captain of the Swallow Sloop, to Matthew Maty, M.D., Sec. R.(i!., on the Inhabitants of the CkMwt or Patagonia.'*— Philosophical Transactions, vol. Ix., p. 90-96. Carterd •ailed with Commodore Byron, and expresses his chagrin that Captain Wallis neglected to acquire a greater knowledge of these savages. t Hawkeswortl^ Coll., v23' 38" S., and its longitude 138*' 36' 48" W. t Beechey, vol. i., p. 207. No cause has been assigned for this sin* guiar change. X The latitude assigned by Wallis is 19^ SO' 8., the longitude 138° 30 W. Captain Beechey's tables give the latitude of the north and south' west extremities, the former 19" 22' 59" S., the latter lO** 24' 26", the longitude of the same spots 139<> 12' 03" W., and 139° 14' 34". Captain Beechey calls this " the second discovery of Captain Wallis," vol. i., p. 210, apparently forgetting Queen Charlotte's Island. t'' i 1 Hi " \m > \i I 154 CIRCUMNAVIGATIONS 0^ breadth ; but a high sea which broke on its rocky beach ren- dered landing impossible. Sixteen natives were observed, armed like the otners. It was called Gloucester ; and later navigators, while they assign to it a different position, bear testimony to the accuracy of his description, though its pre»> ent form and extent are said to dilfer materially. On the 12th an island was observed, which was denominated Cum- berland ; while the name of Prince William Henry was be- stowed on a small low one descried at a distance on the day- break of the 13th. The variety of longitudes assigned to these places has led succeeding observers to claim them as new discoveries ; and, exercising the privilege of a first vis- iter, the French officer Dcperrey seems to have conferred on Prince William Henry's the new title of L'Ostange.* On the 17th land was seen in the northwest : it was high, and covered with cocoa-trees; but as no anchorage could be found, Wallis, after procuring a few articles of refreshment, pursued his course, bestowing on the countiy the title oif Osnaburg — a name which has since given place to the native appellation of Maitea. In about half an hour after very lofty ground was discerned to the west southwest ; but though the ship was immediately steered towards it, owing to adverse weather she did not reach it that night. The next morning, which broke clear and fair, showed it at the distance of five leagues. At eight o'clock they were close under it, when a tmck fog obliged them to lie to, and for a time concealed from them the shores of Otaheite. At length the mists rolled away, and they saw before them a countiy of " the most delightnil and romantic appearance that could be imagined;" along the coast ex- tended fertile plains covered with fruit-trees of various kinds, and unbosomed among tjdese were seen the houses of the natives ; the interior rose into towering mountains crowned with wood, and large rivers were seen falling from the rocks in picturesque cascades. Around the ship the water was studded with some hundreds of canoes of various sizes, con- taining about 800 individuals, who sat gazing at her in great astonishment, and, by turns, conversed one with another. Their wonder was excited by other circumstances besides the vast bulk and strange construction of the Dolphin ; they * Beeobey, vol. i., p. 919, S90. BYRON* WAILI8, AND CARTBRET. 155 beheld the fulfilment of a prophecy, which had been handed down to them from remote times, but was of a nature so in- credible, that they scarcely expected it would ever come to pass. One of their sages, named Maui, had in an inspired moment foretold, that " in future ages a vaa ama ore, literal- ly, an outriggerless canoe," would come to their shores from a distant land. An outrigger being indispensable to keep their barks upright in the water, they could not believe that a vessel without one could live at sea, until, on looking on the magnificent structure before them, they unanimously declared that the prediction of Maui was fulfilled, and that the fated ship had arrived.* After having consulted together for some time, they paddled their canoes round the vessel, making va- rious signs of friendship, and a person, holding in his hand a branch of the plantain-tree, spoke about fifteen minutes, and concluded by throwing the bough into the sea. Soon after, one was prevailed on to come on board, but would not accept the presents offered to him until some of his compan- ions, after " much talk," threw a few similar twigs on the deck. Several of the others soon imitated his example. * Polynesian Researches, during a residence of nearly fiiglit Years in tbe Society and Sandwich Islands. By William Ellis. 9d idiiion, Lon- don, 1831, vol. i., p. 388. Mr. Ellis's account or the native traditions re- garding the arrival or Wallis is hardly reconcileable with fhcis. He says, that when the people lirst saw the ships, they were induced to suppose them " islands inhabited by a supernatural order of beings, at whose direction lightnings flashed, thunders roared, and the destroying demon slew with insuntaneous but invisible strokes the most daring and valiant or their warriors. Bvi when they ajtenvard went alon/faide^ or ventured on board,^ Ac, they discovered them to be ships, and *'ice'-e conftrmed in this interpretation when they taw the amall boats belong' ing to the ships employed in passing to and fro between the vessel and the shore.^— Vol. i., p. 384. But, in point or fact, the natives came along- side, ventured on board, and became fhmiliar with the boats, before they knew any thing of the " lightning- flash and thunder-roar," or tbe dead- ly efTeots of firearms. There are one or two similar inaccuracies in Mr. Ellis's valuable work with regard to the early visiters. He seems almost to have forgotten that Wallis was expressly sent out to prosecute the discovery of new lands ; fbr he attributes the arrival at Otaheite to ** accident, so flir as Captain Wallis was concerned."— Vol. ii , p. 1. The result of a concerted expedition can scarcely be called '* accident ;" nor can we see the distinctiun on which the discoveries of Cook are at- tributed to a desire for ** the advancement of knowledge," and those of Wallis ascribed to chance The discovery of Sagitaria by Quiros oe- iBurred In the bsginning of tbe seventeenth^ not *' towards tkttnAo/ths sixteenth century," as stated by Mr. Ellis, vol. i., p. 6. i I ,# f\ 1)56 CIRCUMNATI0ATI0N8 OF ( .^. On© of them was attacked by a goat, which butted at him, and, on turning hastily round, tho appoaranco of an animal so new to him, raised on its hind legs preparing to repeat the blow, struck him with such terror that he instantly leaped into the water, and was followed by all his countrymen. In a brief space, however, they again ventured on deck, and were presented with trinkets and nails ; their visit being ter- minated by one of them snatching a new lacod hat from a midshipman^s head, and springing with his plunder over tho •hip*s side. No anchorage being found here, Wallis stood along the shore, the boats keeping close to the land to sound. In tho aflemoon they n^ached a large bay, where a great number of canoes came around them ; and the captain, suspecting their l^ostilo intentions, made a signal for his people to join, while, to intimidate tho savages, he tired a nino-pounder over their heads. Though startled by the report, they endeavoured to cut oflf the boats, and made an attack with stones, which wounded several seamen^ when a musket was tired at the man who had commenced the assault. The shot pierced hiH st;ioul- der, and as soon as the wound was perceived by his compan- ions they leaped into the sea ; while the others ))adclled away in great terror and confusion. Not long after a canoe came off to the ship, and one of the natives, having spoken about Ave minutes, threw a branch of the plantain-tree on board, a token of peace which the English accepted, and gave him some trinkets, with which he departed apparently well pleased. Next morning the search for anchoring-ground was renewed, and continued during all that day ; in the evening the Dolphin lay to abreast of a tine river, and a great number of lights was observed along the shore throughout the night. At dawn, anchorage was^obtained ; and as soon as the vessel was secured, the boats were sent out to examine the coast and seek for a watering-place. When they approached the land, the canoes which were engaged in traffic with the ci-ew sailed after them, and three of the largest ran at the cutter and staved in her quarter, while the islanders made themselves ready to board her. The party fired, and two of the natives fell into the sea ; on which the attack was instantly abandoned. Their companions pulled the men who had fallen overboard from the water and set them on their feet ; finding they could not stand, it was tried if they could sit upright ; one of them. BYRON) WALLI8, AND CARTERET. 157 who was only wounded, was able when supported to retain this posture ; but the other, who was dead, they laid in the bottom of the canoe. Notwithstanding this afi'ray, some of them speedily resumed their traffic, and an amicable inter- course was maintained during the time the Dolphin lay there. The men despatched to procure water found the beach lined with inhabitants, who endeavoured to entice them on shore by every expedient they could devise ; but, unwilling to trust those whose hostile dispositions they had so lately pxporionccd, landing was postponed until the ship should be moored so as to cover them with her guns. At daybreak on the 23d June, while standing off to efTcct this object, a bay six or eight miles to leeward was discovered from the mast-head, and Wallis immediately bore away for it. As he stood in to this harbour, the Dolphin suddenly struck on a coral reef ; but after beating against it about an hour, a fresh breeze springing up, she swung off and shortly after came to anchor within it. The next morning they proceeded to warp the ship farther in, when a great number of people came off and engaged in traffic, by which hogs, fowls, and fruit were exchanged for knives, nails, and beads. As the day ad- vanced, the canoes gradually increased ; and the captain ob- served with some anxiety the appearance of those which last arrived. They were double, and of a very large size, con- taining little else but round pebble stones, and each was manned by twelve or fifteen stout fellows. From these circum- stances, it was judged prudent to keep one of the watches constantly under arms, while the rest of the crew were en- gaged in warping the ship. Meanwhile more of the small craft continued to arrive ; although those which now moved from the shore presented any thing but a warlike aspect. They were filled with females, who tried every art to attract the at- tention of the sailors : while the double canoes were closing round the Dolphin, some of the savages onboard of them sung in a hoarse voice, others sounded the conch, and a third party plft^ed on an instrument resembling a flute. One, who sat on a Tanopy fixed on his small boat, now came alongside and handed up a bunch of red and yellow feathers. Wallis re- ceived this with expressions of friendship, and was preparing to present the donor with some trinkets in return, when the latter, having paddled off to a little distance, threw into the air a branch of a cocoanut tree. At this signal a universal shout 'nl ^^1 Hi v 158 CIRCUMNAVIOATIONS OF Uv '' burst from the islanders ; all their canoes at once moved to- wards the man-of-war ; and a shower of stones was poured into her from all directions. The watch were instantly ordered to tire, and two of the quarter-deck swivels loaded with small shot were discharged nearly at the same time. The natives appeared to be thrown into confusion, but in a few minutes renewed the attack. At this time there were about 300 of their vessels round the ship, with at least 2000 men on board ; many thousands were observed crowding the shore ; and oth- ers were paddling towards the Dolphin in the greatest haste from all sides. The crew having now got to their quarters, a fire was opened from the great guns, which soon put to flight those near the ship, and also checked the embarcation of more warriors from the land. The savages, however, were not dis- pirited ; the firing having ceased, the canoes soon gathered to- gether and lay for some time looking at their antagonist from the distance of about a quarter of a mile. Suddenly they were observed to hoist white streamers ; they then paddled towards the stem, and began a discharge of stones, eacn about two pounds in weight, and slung with such force and an aim so true that many of the seamen were wounded. Several ca- noes, at the same time, were making towards the bow, and among these was one which appeared to have a chief on board. Two cannon were now run out abaft and pointed at the assail- ants in that quarter, while others were run forward and fired from the stem. A shot from one of these struck the vessel which contained the supposed leader, and cut it asunder ; which was no sooner perceived than the others dispersed with such haste that in half an hour there was not a single canoo in sight. The people who Uned the shore were observed run- ning over the hills in great precipitation, and no further token of hostility appearing, the EngUsh proceeded to moor the ship and to sound the bay. About noon of the succeeding day it was ascertained that the beach afforded good landing in every part ; no canoes were visible, and Lieutenant Fumeaux was ordered to go ashore. This was effected without opposition ; and having crectdi^« pole, on which he hoisted a pendant, and turned a turf, he tookpossession of the country by the name of King George the Third's Island — a title which has been superseded by the indigenous appellation of Otaheite, or, as it is now sometimes BYRON, WALLI8, AND CARTERET. 159 written, Tahiti.* Two old men were discovered on the op- posite side of a river which flowed into the bay, and signs having been made that they should come over, one of them complied and advanced towards the lieutenant on his hands and knees. He was presented with some trinkets, and as soon as the boats put off he began to caper round the flag., c' nd threw down some green boughs before it. He was afterward 1'oined by ten or twelve others, who brought with them two arge hogs, which they deposited at the foot of the pole, and, after a pause, began to dance. The quadrupeds were then put on board a canoe, into which the old man accompanied them ; and, coming dongside of the ship, he made a formal oration and presented son^e plantain-leaves, one by one, each accompanied by a few words slowly and solemnly tipoKen. He concluded by offering the two hogs, for which he wouVJl accept nothing in return, but eagerly pointed to the land. During the night, innumerable lights were seen along the coast, and the sound of dnims, conchs, and other instruments was heard ; and, when the morning of the 26th broke, the pendant was found to have been carried away. The Ueuten- ant again landed, and while he was engaged in flUing the water-casks, the old man appeared with some fruits and a few fowls. At this time Captain Wallis, who was confined to the ship by ill health, observed through his glass a multitude of the savages coming over a hill at about the distance of a mile ; a great number of canoes were seen making towards the water- ing-place from behind the two points of the bay ; many thou- sands of the natives were perceived advancing through the woods in the same direction ; and a large party was discov- ered creeping behind the bushes close to the waterers. A boat was instantly despatched to warn them of their dar.jrpi ; but before it reached the shore they had seen the islitiders 4^ t (i^ .n * The latter spelling is said by Mr. ElUs lo app?. wiuiste more nearly to the native pronunciation ; but, (Vom a f'^tlitis; (which we share with Captain Beeehey and others) of '^ ynneratift. for line name as it is written inthe celebrated Voyages of (.!ook," we shall adhere to his orthography. The name Tahiti is, besides, in itself objectionable. " By the natives," says Mr. Ellis, " their island is called Ta-hi-ti. The t having the sound of e in their language, it is pronounced as if written in English Ta-he- te.** — Vol. i., p. 7. If Otaluite is to be set aside, because not consonant with the native pronunciation, why should Tahiti be retained when lia- ble to the same objection 1 Even on Mr. Ellis's own showing and prin- oiples^ Tahiti should in turn give way to Tahete. f t 160 CIRCUMNAVIGATIONS OP 1 •f/ ^\: u lurking in the thicket and had embarked. The bay now ex- hibited a spectacle of singular interest. The canoes from both sides advanced rapidly towards the same point, and, as they came near, stopped to take on board more warriors and great Oags of stones. The margin of the beach was thronged with people all hastening to the river, and a hill which looked down on the harbour was crowded with women and children, who had seated themselves to view the approaching conflict. At length the preparations of the native armament were completed, and the whole flotilla made towards the Dolphin, which immediately opened a destructive fire. The rude ar- mada was almost instantly dispersed ; the canoes on the east side of the bay paddled round the point, and were soon be- yond the reach of shot ; while those on the west side were run on shore, and deserted by their crews. The fire was now directed into different parts of the wood, and the savages, driven from this shelter, ran up the eminence on which the women and children had taken their position. This hill was thronged with several thousand people, who considered them- selves beyond the reach of danger, when, to impress on them -he tremendous power of his artillery, Wallis ordered some of the guns to be fired at this vast multitude. Two of the balls truck the ground near a tree where a great number were sit- ting in fancied security, and created such a consternation ** that in less than two minutes not one of them was to be teen." To complete his victory, he sent the carpenters to de- stroy all the canoes which had been run aground. More than fifty, some of them sixty feet in length, were demoUshed in a few hours. These severe measures at length produced the desired ef- fect ; the islanders were now completely dispirited, and sub- mitted to keep peace witlf those strangers, whose terrible su- periority made war hopeless. A few hours after the battle, about ten of them issued from the wood bearing green Doughs, which they stuck up on the shore, and deposited be- ede them some hogs, dogs, and bundles of qloth. This jaeace-ofFering was accepted, and returned by a prenent of hatchets, nails, and some other articles; and from this time a friendly feeling was displayed in all their transactions. The next day, the 37th June, the sick were landed, and a tent erected for their residence. A traffic was commenced for provisions, and continued to be carried on amicably, chief- BYRON, WALLIS, AND CARTERET. 161 mation to be tode- than ed in a le su- battle, ^een d be- This mt of time ly through the medium of the old man on behalf of the island* ers, and the gunner on the part of the English. Iron was the object which the natives prized most highly, and for a small portion of it they willingly parted with every thing they had. " To discover what present would roost gratify them," says Wallis, '' I laid down before them a Johannes, a guinea, a crown-piece, a Spanish dollar, a few shillings, some new half- pence, and two large nails, making signs that they should take what they liked best. The nails were first seized with great eagerness, and then a few of the halfpence, but the sil- ver and gold lay neglected."* No event of importance oc- curred until the 11th July, when the gunner conducted on board a tall woman, apparently about forty-five years of age, and, says the captain, '* of a pleasing countenance and majes- tic deportment." She displayed a freedom and ease of car- riage which appeared to have been formed by habitual com- mand; while she accepted the presents which were given her with a very good grace. Understanding that the com- mander had been ill, she made signs inviting him to land. The gunner conducted her ashore, and, on his return, reported that her house was spacious, and furnished with many do- mestics and guards, and that another mansion which she pos- sessed '' was enclosed in latMcework." The next morning Wallis landed for the first time, and " my princess, or rather queen," says he, " for such by her authority she appeared to be, soon after came to me." She ordered her attendants to take him, and two of the officers who had been sick, in their arms and carry them to her house ; and when they approached it they were met by num- bers of both sexes, whom she presented to the captain as her relations, and taking hold oi his hand she made them kiss it.f They were then ushered into the dwelling, which was large and commodious, and on the invalids being seated their arms and legs were gently chafed by young girls. During this operation, the surgeon, heated by lus walk, took off his wig to ♦ Hawkes worth's Coll., vol. 1., p. 240. t An engraving of this scene inserted in Hawkesworth's Coll., vol. i., p. 242, is entitled " A Representation or the Surrender of the Island or Otaheiie to Captain Wallis, by the sapposed queen, Oberea."— Descrip- tion of the Cuts, p. xxxvi. It seems difficult to account Tor the origin of 'ilia strange title; there is certainly nothing even hinted at in the text of auch a " surrender," nor had this imaginary queen the power of giving "■way what was not her own. , ,, 02 ' t w \'l !-■, -if* ^i\ 162 CIRCUMNAVIGATIONS OP ,^: i cool himself; "a sudden exclainalion of one of the Indiani Mrho saw it drew the attention of the root, and in a moment every eye was fixed upon the prodigy, and every operation was suspended ; the whole assembly stood some time motionless in silent astonishment, which could not have been more strong- ly expressed if they had discovered that our friend's limbs had been screwed on to the trunk."* When the chafing was finished, their hospitable enti rtainer ordered bales of cloth to be brought, with which she dressed them after the native fashion. On their departure she accompanied them to the boats ; and Wallis having declined the honour of being again carried, the supposed queen, says he, '• took me by the arm, and whenever we came to a plash of water or dirt, she lifted me over with as little trouble as it would have cost me to have lifted over a child." The next morning a present was s6nt to her of some hatchets, bill-hooks, and other things, and the gunner who conveyed them found her conducting an en- tertainment given to about 1000 people. She distributed the viands to her guests with her own hands, and, when this was done, seated herself on a place elevated above the rest, and was fed by two female servants. On the 14th, the same officer observed an old woman on the opposite side of the river, weeping bitterly. A young man who stood by her crossed, and, coming to the English- man, made a long speech, and laid a plantain-bough at his feet. He then repassed the stream to bring over nis aged friend and two hrpo hog« '* The woman," says the captain, " looked round upon our people with great attention, fixing her eyes sometimes upon one, and sometimes upon another, and at last burst into tears. The young man who brought her over tlie river, perceiving the gunner's concern and astonishment, made another speech longer than the first. Still, however, the woman's distress was a mystery ; but at length she made him understand that her husband and three of her sons had been killed in the attack on the ship. During this explana- tion she was so atfected that at last she sunk down unable to speak, and the two young men, who endeavoured to support her, appeared to be nearly in the same condition ; they were jKobably two more of her sons, or some very near relations. The gunner did all in his power to sooth and comfort her ; 4| a P a ti ti a tl a V e t 8 I I C i I * Hawkesworth'8 Coll., vol. i., p. 343. t BYRONy WALLIS. AND CARTERET. 163 and when she had in some measure recovered her recollec- tion, she ordered the two hogs to bo delivered to him, and gavo him her hand in token of friendship, but would accept notning in return, though he offered her ten times as much as would have purchased the hogs at market."* On the 2l8t July the queen again came on hoard, and brought several hogs as a present, for which, as usual, sho would accept no recompense. On her departure the cuptain accompanied her on shore, where he was very kindly treated, and remained during the day. As he was parting^ in the even- ing, he intimated that he would leave the island in seven days, which she instantly comprehended, and expressed a de- sire that ho would extend them to twenty. ♦* I again," says the commander, '' made signs that I must go in seven days, upon which she burst into tears, and it was not without great difficulty that she was pacified." On the morning of the 25th, a party, consisting of forty seamen and all the marines, was sent out to explore the inte- rior of the island. The instructions given to them would al- most lead us to think that the expedition had been fitted out with the expectation of discovering regions abounding in gold and silver. They were directed to "examine the soil and produce of the country, noting the trees and plants which they should find, and when they saw any stream from the moun- tains, to trace it to its source, and observe whether it was tinctured w.'h any mineral or ore." While they were absent an eclipse of the sun was observed, and the queen was shown the powers of the telescope, which excited in her " a mixture of wonder and delight which no language can describe." With a view to the security of the party, Wallis invited her and several of the chiefs on board, to partake of a dinner which was prepared for the occasion ; but her majesty would neither eat nor drink. In the evening the men returned, and reported that they had " proceeded up the valley as far as th(!y could, searching all the runs of water, and all the places where water had run, for appearances of metal or ore," but had found none. Shortly after, the great lady and her attendants departed, and on leaving, asked ner host if he still persisted in quitting the island at the time he had fixed; "and when," says he, "I made her understand that it was impossible I should stay ^ *^ HawkMworth's Coll., vol. i., p. 344, 345 164 CIRCUMNAVIGATIONS OP longer, she expressed her regret by a flootl of tears, which for a while took away her speech."* The next day, the ship being completely supplied with wood and water, preparations were made for sailing. The island princess came on board with presents, and renewed her solicitations that Wallis would remain ten days longer, and on receiving a negative, burst as usual into tears. iShc ihen inquired when he would return, and on his intimating in fifty days, she tried to reduce the period to thirty. She remained i the Dolphin till night, and when told that the boat was ready to conduct her on shore, she throw herself down on the arm-cltest, and wept very passionately ; and it was with the greatest difficulty that she was prevailed on to quit the vessel. The next morning, that of the 27th July, she again came to see her friends, " but not being able to speak, slie sat' down and gave vent to her passion by weeping ;" and it was not until they wore under sail that she took her departure, " em- bracitig us all," s.ys the narrator, '* in the most affectionate manner, and witli many tears.'' Soon after, the ship was be- calmed, when the queen again came off in her canoe, in the bow of which " she sat weeping with inconsolable sorrow.'* The captain gave her various articles which he thought would be of use to her, and others that were merely ornamental ; and, as he remarks, " she silently accepted of all, but took lit- tle notice (>f any thing." About ten o'clock, a fresh breeze springing up, the ship cleared the reef, when the natives, and particularly the queen, once more bade them farewell, " with such tenderness of affection and grief," says the navigator, *' as filled both my heart and my eyes."! To the harbour in * Hawkesworth's Coll., vol. I., p. 251. t Idem, vol. i., p. 259. Tlie account or his interview with tliis lady has exposed Waliis to*^a good deal of ridicule. Mr. Barrow (Eventnil History of the Mutiny of the Bounty, London, 1631, p. 16) remarlts— " The tender passion had certainly caught hold of one or bolti or these worthies, and if her maJ^Bty's language had been as well under- stood by Captain Wallis as that of Dido was to iGneas, when pressing him to stay with her^ there is no doubt it would have been found not lesa pathetic— * Nee te noster amor nee te data dextera quondam Nee moritura tenet crudeli ftinere Dido V " *' Nor could my kindness your compassion move, Nor plighted vows, nor dearer bands of love 7 Or is the death of a despair'ng queen Not worth preventing, though too well foreseen ?"— Drydin. ■ w be regarded as other- wise than fortunate. Had the vessels kept company, the knowledge of Otaheite and of a few small islands would, in all probability, have been the only acquisition ; but while the one was ex])loring its coasts, the other, by pursuing a track more to the southward, made discoveries of equal importance, and brought back to Europe tidings of the long-lost lands of Qui- res and Mendana, as well as of a strait between New Britain and New Ireland. As was formerly noticed, it was on the 11th April, 1767, when the vessels had just come in sight of the South Sea, that the Dolphin caught a favourable breeze, before which she stood away and soon cleared Cape Pilares, leaving the Swal- low in the narrows, where she remained four days. Captain Carteret ascribes much of his detention to the crazy state of his ship and the want of proper supplies — a subject to which he frequently recurs during his voyage. On leaving the Straits, he stood to the north for the Island of Mas-afuera, where he stopped some time to procure a sup- ply of water. He then sailed to the westward, and searched, though in vain, for the Islands of San Felix, and for Davis's Land or Easter Island. His first discovery was that of a spot, the romantic history of which has attracted in later times so much attention. On the 2d of July he descried land, which on a nearer approach appeared " like a great rock rising out of the sea :" its circumference is described as not exceeding five* miles ; and it is added, that it was covered with trees, but without any appearance of inhabitants. The surf, which broke with great violence on eveir side of it, forbade landing, and, in honour of the young gentleman to whose eye it first appeared, it was called Pitcaim's Island. It was a perusal of Carteret's description of this spot that led Christian and the * Hawkesworth's Coll., vol. i., p. 34L By the accompanying chart the circumference appears to be about nine miles. IP »; I the first ship we id 1y^ no incident the Downs on the ne she had spread t at the western nuch regretted by regarded as other- pt company, the lands would, in all but while the one ling a track more II importance, and lost lands of Qui- veen New Britain Ith April, 1767, f the South Sea, , before which she leaving the Swal- r days. Captain the crazy state of subject to which rth for the Island to procure a sup- ird, and searched, and for Davis's vas that of a spot, in later times so ried land, which rock rising out IS not exceeding rered with trees. The surf, which forbade landing, lose eye it first was a perusal of iristian and the :coinpanying chart BYRON, WALLIS, AND CARTERET. 167 mutineers of the Bounty to seek in it a retreat from the ven- geance due to their guilt.* It was well adapted for their purpose ; approach was difficult ; it seemed to be uninhabited,, afforded fresh water, and the trees with which it was covered showed it to be fertile. They found in it, indeed, every thing which they desired from external nature, and had no hinder- ance to their hopes of happiness but in their own evil pas- sions, which in a short time brought down upon them punish- ments as deadly as those they sought to fly from, and stained this fair isle with crimes as dark as ever tragedy recorded. Pr'tcairn's Island has been supposed to be the La Encaxnacion of Qairos ; but the description which that navigator gives — " low and flat, with a sandy surface, here and there diversified by a few trees"t — is quite inconsistent with the hilly land, the summits of which Beechey found to be 1109 feet above the sea. Captain Cook's conjecture, that it is identical with Quiros's second discovery — the Island of San Juan Bautista — seems also untenable. This last is described as " plain and even a-top," and as containing about twelve leagues ; circum- stances which are by no means applicable to the other.t Mr. Barrow remarks, that " we must look for La Encarnacion some- where else ; and Ducies Island, in that vicinity, very low, and within 5° of longitude from Pitcairn's Island, answers pre- cisely to it."^ About six days after his departure hence, Carteret discov- ered southward of his track a small, low, flat island, almost level with the water's edge, and covered with green trees. He bestowed on it the name of the Bishop of Osnaburg, and, according to his calculation, its latitude was 22° south, its longitude 141° 34' west. Captain Beechey searched in this neighbourhood two days, but was unable to find it ; and he therefore imagines it to be identical with one on which he dis- covered the marks of a shipwreck, supposed to be that of the Matilda whaler, lost near this in 1792. This he proposes ehould be called Osnaburg and Matilda Island. We are re- * Beechey, vol. i., p. 80. t Sec above, p. 80. X A Voyage towards the South Pcle and round the World, 1772-1T75, vol. i., General Introduction, p. xii. Captain Cook has been led into an error fVom a misinterpretation of the Spaulch text, the meaning of which seems certainly rather ambiguous. But, however it may be construed, the " level top," on which all are agreed, makes it inapplicable to Fit- cairn's Island. $ Eventflil History of the Mutiny of the Bounty, p. 888, nota I ", ft 168 CIRCUMNAVIGATIONS OF W ..d. luctant to dissent from so able a navigator as the gallant cap- tain ; but his theory appears irreconcilable \«rith the facts. Carteret speaks of Osnaburg Island, as '* small, low, and flat, and covered with green trees ;"* and, as Captain Beechfey himself remarks, the crew of the Matilda " describe themselves to have been lost on a reef of rocks ; whereas the island on which these anchors are lying extends /our/£€nmt/£« in length, and has one of its sides covered nearly the whole of the way with high trees, which, from the spot where the vessel wa» wrecked, are very conspicuous, and could not fail to be seen by persons in the situation of her crew."t In attempting to remove this striking discrepance by the hypothesis " that a considerable alteration has taken place in the island," he must Rave forgotten, that if this be Osnaburg, it was " small" and covered with trees in 1767, the date of its discovery. How improbable is it that it should have been wooded then, have become a bare reef of rocks in 1792, and again bear trees, and extend ** fourteen miles in length," in 1826 ! The next day Carteret saw two small islands, which he called after the Duke of Gloucester ; they were replenished with wood, but apparently uninhabited, and the long billows rolling from the southward convinced him that there existed no continent in that direction. He continued his course to the westward, until he had sailed, according to his reckoning, 1800 leagues from the shores of America ; when, finding his endeavours to keep in a high southern latitude ineffectual, and his crew in a sickly condition, he determined to approach the equator, to get into the trade-wind. His object was to reach some island where he might prdbure refreshment ; after which he hoped to be able to resume his voyage towards the south. On the 26th of July lie was in latitude 10° south, and lon- gitude 167° west, where he expected to fall in with the Isl- ands of Solomon, and for that purpose kept in the same par- allel until the 3d of August, when, having attained the latitude of 10° 18' south, and longitude of 177^° east, " five degrees to the westward of the situation of these islands in the charts," he came to the conclusion, " that if there are any such islands their situation is erroneously laid down." Had the construc- tors of these maps examined the original authorities, they would have scarcely ventured to assign any certain position . * Hawkeswortb'B Coll., vol. i., p. 342. t Beech«y, vol. i., p. 217. BYRON, WALLI8, AND CARTERET. 169 to these islands. The latitude in which the ancient writers place them varies from 7° to 19° south, and the longitude from 2400 miles to 7500 miles west of Peru ; and so imper- fectly was their situation ascertained, that even their discoverer was baffled in an attempt to revisit their shores.* At daybreak on the 12th of August land was seen ; and so distressed were the crew that, says the captain, " the sudden transport of hope and joy which this inspired can, perhaps, he equalled only by that which a criminal feels who hears the cry of a reprieve at the place of execution." It proved to be a cluster of islands, of which seven were counted, but there was reason to believe that there were many more. In the evening the ship anchored off the largest, and the na- tives were discovered to be black, woolly headed, and naked. The next morning the master was despatched in the cutter to explore the coast for a watering-place; and the long- boat was sent on shore in the afternoon to e . ieavour to es- tablish a friendly intercourse with the inhabwdnts. These, however, either disregarded or did not understand the amica- ble signs made to them, but resolutely advanced within bow- shot of the boats, when they discharged their arrows, and in- stantly fled into the woods. No harm was sustained by this attack, which was returned with a fire of musketry equally unsuccessful. Shortly after, the cutter came alongside, with the master mortally wounded by three arrows, which were still sticking in his body, and three of the seamen in the same condition. The savages, it appeared, had at first received them with marks of friendship, and only commenced an attack on the master when they saw him wantonly cutting down one of their cocoanut-trees. The next, and several succeeding days, were spent in obtaining a small supply of water ; but such was the determined hostility of the people, that the party was obliged to keep within shelter of the guns. There was no hope of obtaining the refreshments required, and on the 17th, therefore, the anchor was weighed, and :he vessel proceeded to coast the northern side of the island. It appeared to be very populous, and numerous villages were observed, from some of which the inhabitants came out as the ship passed by, " holding something in their hands, which looked like a wisp of green grass, with which they seemed to ). I jv. . .817. * See above, p. 6d,70 ; and Dalrymple's Hist. Coll., vol. i., p. 44-46. P \ t i I 170 CIRCUMNAVIGATIONS OF stroke each other, at the same time dancing or running in a »>« ring. On arriving at the west end of the island, the sickly con- dition of his crew, his own bad health, the frail state of his ship, and other considerations, determined Carteret immedi- ately to stand to the north, abandoning all thoughts of south- ern discovery, or of more closely examining the interesting group which he had reached. To the whole cluster he gave the general appellation of Queen Charlotte, and distinguished seven of them by individual titles. The largest was called Egmont or New Guernsey — and, says he, " it certainly is the same to which the Spaniards have given the name of Santa Cruz ;" the native term seems to be Andany or Nitendy. ) One which exhibited volcanic appearances, al^d seems to have been remarked by Mendana,t was designated Vulcano. The most northerly of the group was named Swallow or Keppel.t Three to the south and east of Egmont were called respec- tively. Lord Hqwe's or New Jersey, Lord Edgecumbe's or New Sark, and Ourry or New Alderney ; and the name of Trevanion was bestowed on a small one at the northwest corner of Santa Cruz. The two Islands of Edgecumbe and Ourry modem geographers represent as only one, bearing the appellation of Toboua. It has been proposed by French writers to withdraw the name of Queen Charlotte, as applied to this cluster, and to substitute the ** Archipelago of La Pe- Touse," in honour of that unfortunate navigator, who perished on one of them, as we shall hereafter have occasion to nar- rate. On leaving this group, Carteret held a west northwest course, and on the evening of the second day discovered a small, flat, and low island, which he called Gower's. The * Hawkesworth's Coll., vol. i., p. 359. t See above, p. 71. The identity of Qneen Charlotte's blands with the archipelago of Santa Cruz, discovered by Mendana in 1595, was tri> umphaiitly establiBhed by M. le Comte de Fleurieu iii a work entitled •> U^couveries desFransais dans le sud-est de la Nonvelle Guinea. Paris, 1790," 4to. This volume is distinguished by the most laborious re- search, singular acuieness, and critical discrimination. An English translation appeared at London in 1791. t In the chart, this island is called Swallow— io the text, KeppeU M. Baibi (Abr^g^ de G^ographie, Parts, 1833, p. 1867) conjectures it to be identical with what he calls " le groupe de Filoli ;" but as he mentions this as " compost de huii Hots,** and Carteret describes Sw^Jow bland as *' a long flat island," bis theory docs not seem to be tenable. or BYRON, WALLI8, AND CARTERET. 171 inhabitants resembled those of Egmont ; no anchorage was found, and during the night the current drifted his ship to the southward, and brought him in sight of two other islands. The smaller of these was denominated Simpson^s ; and to the other, which was lofty and of a stately appearance, the cap- tain gave his own name, which he seems to have been rather fond of linking to his discoveries, as his voyage presents us with Carteret's Island, Carteret's Point, and Carteret's Har- bour. The inhabitants wore quite naked ; their arms were bows and arrows, and spears pointed with flint, and, says the gallant author, " by some signs which they made, pointing to our muskets, we imagined they were not wholly unacquainted with firearms." Tni:s knowledge they most probably re- ceived from a traditional account of the visit of Mendana, about two centuries previous ; for it is completely established that these islands are part of the archipelago which bears the name of Solomon. Gower's, for example, is identified with the Nombrc de Jesus of the Spaniards, and with the Inat- tendue of the French navigator Surville ; and Carteret's is supposed to bo the Malaita of Mendana.* He now changed his course to the northwest, and on tho 24th discovered nine islands, which he imagined to be the Ontong Java of Tasman— an hypothesis which has not been adopted by all modern geographers, some of whom assign this to Carteret as an original discovery. M. d'Urville con- siders a group lately made known by the American captain, Morrell, and named by him the Massacre, to be identical with Carteret's Nine Islands. t On that same night another was seen, and called after Sir Charles Hardy ; it was of con- siderable extent, flat, green, and of a pleasant appearance, and numerous fires which blazed uj:on its shores showed it to be well peopled. It is supposed to belong to the Green Islands visited by Schouten and Le Maire.t At daybreak of tho 25th they saw one to the southward, large and high, which was named Winchelsea's or Anson's,^ and about ten o'clock next morning they descried another to the northward, which * Seo above, p. 62, 63. t Observations sur les D^couvertes da Capitalne AmMcaine, J. Morrel> Par M. J. d'Urville. Bulletin de la Soci^t^ de Gtographie, tome xix. No. cxxi., p. 272. X See above, p. 99, and Burney's Chron. Hist. Discov., vol. ii., p. 418. ^ This discovery receives the name of Winchelsea in the text and of Anson in tba c|iart. It seems to be the Boaca of Bougainville. if \ *i 172 CIRCUMNAVIGATIONS OF I I't i.t i( ( I. M was conjectured to be the St. John^s Island of Schoaten. Soon after, the elevated land of New Britain was visible, and light winds and a strong current bore the Swallow next day into the gulf which Dampier had named St. George's Bay. Here Carteret anchored, and remained several days for the purposes of refreshment ; during which time he visited some small islands and harbours, and took possession of the whole country, ♦• for his majesty George the Third, king of Great Britain." While attempting to get off the land, in order to double Cape St. Mary, he was met with a violent gale right a-head, and a strong current at the same time set the ship into St. George's Bay. Finding it impossible to get round the cape, he determined to attempt a passage through the inlet, which, from the flow of the sea, he was induced to think must open to the westward. He accordingly stood in that direction, and passing a large island* which divided the channel, found, on the morning of the 11th September, that he had lost sight of New Britain, and that the supposed bay was indeed a strait. It was named by him St. George's Channel, while the land on the north, which had been hitherto supposed a part of Nova Britannia, was forthwith denominated New Ireland. Carteret pursued his course along the south side of this coun- try, and on the same night discovered an island larger than the former, to which he gave the appellation of Sandwich. During his stay some canoes, manned with the people of New Ire- land, rowed towards the ship. These were black and woolly headed, and much resembled the people of Queen Charlotte's group. Like them, they were naked, except a few shell or- naments on their arms and legs, "They had, however," says the navigator, " adapted a practice, without which none of our belles nnd beaux are supposed to be completely dressed ; for the hair, or rather the wool upon their heads, was very abun- dantly powdered with white powder, and not only their heads but their beards too."t Steering nearly westward, in a short * The perplexing discrepances between the text and charts or this voyage render it almost impossible lo present a clear account of the sit- uation or these islands. I'lie island called in the chart " T. Man** fie<>ms to be what in the text is called the Uuke of York's Island ; and the Isle of Man or the text seems to be the small oblong island north of the promontory, named in the chart Cape Stephens. t Hawkesworth's Coll., vol. i., p. 379. ■( i> ' BYRONi WALLI8, AND CARTERET. 179 time he came to the southwest extremity of New Ireland, which was named Cape Byron ; while to an island, divided from the other by a narrow strait, he gave the title of New Hanover. This is described as high, ''finely covered with trees, among which are many plantations, and the whole has a most beautiful appearance." Next morning, six or seven isl- ands were perceived to the westward ; their extent was very considerable, and they were named after the Duke of Port- land. The swell of the sea now convinced Carteret that he had passed through the channel and was clear of all the land. On the 16th September he reached some islands, of which the inhabitants resembled those of New keland; but this cluster, called by him the Admiralty, he was obliged to leave after a very superficial and imperfect examination. Four days later he discovered two small ones, which he called Durour^s and Maty's ; and on the 24th, other two, to which he gave the name of Stephens*s Islands.* The next day he observed a group, consisting of three, surrounded by a reef. The natives were of a copper colour, with fine long black hair and pleasing futures, evidently of a distinct race from the people of New Ireland. One of them who came on board re- fused to leave the ship, and accompanied the voyagers ta Celebes, where he died. The captain called him Joseph Freewill, and named the islands after him ; though the ori- ginal designations were ascertained to be Pegan, Onata, and Onello. On the 12th of October a spot of land scarcely big- ger than a rock was seen, and denominated Current Islana ; and the next day two nearly as small were observed, on which the title of St. Andrew was bestowed. On the 26th the adventurers made the coast of Mindanao, one of the Philippines, where they spent several days in en- deavouring to establish a friendly communication with the natives. On the 4th of November, finding themselves dis- appointed in their hopes of procuring refreshments, they set sail for the Island of Celebes. In their progress they were attacked at midnight by a pirate, who endeavoured to board i \i * The late French navigator, Duperrey, having in vain sought tbr the islands teat named in the situation assigned to them by Caneret, has come to the eonctusion that they are the Providence Islands ofDampier. —Lives and Voyages of Drake, Cavendish, and Dampier, chap, xi.; and Rapport fkit & I'Acad^mie Royale des Sciences, sur le Voyage de la Co> quille, command^e par M. L. J. Duperrey. 4to, p. Iv. : , Pa saUtt 174 CIRCUMNAVIGATIONS OP BYRON, ETC. w t^ 7 them. Defeated in this attempt, he commenced a discharge with swivel-guns and firearms, which the Enghshman re- turned with such deadly effect, " that shortly after he sunk, and all the unhappy wretches on board perished. It was a small vesh I ; but of what country, or how manned, it was impossible tor us to know." At length, after a tedious and stormy passage, on the 16th of December Carteret anchored off" the town of Macassar, from which he removed in a few days to the Bay of Bonthain. The jealousy of the Dutch, which had prevented him from remaining at the former place, wrought him considerable annoyance d'^ring the five months he stayed at tbr* Xtex. On the 22d of May, 1768, he set sail for the Island c Java, where his vessel underwent extensive repairs before proceeding on her homeward voyage. He kopped at the Cape of Good Hope on the 28th November, and continued there till the 6th of January, 1769. On the 19th of February,* nearly three weeks after leaving the Isl- and of Ascension, a ship was discovered bearing French col- ours ; and at noon of the next day she was so close to the Swallow as to be able to hail her. " To my great surprise," says the captain, " the French vessel made use both of my name and that of the ship, inquiring after my health, and tell- ing me, that after the return of the Dolphin to Europe, it was I Jieved we had suffered shipwreck in the Streight of Magel- lan, and that two ships had been sent out in quest of us." The officer here alluded to was M. Bougainville, who had just sailed round the globe, and was now directing his course homeward. No other incident worthy of notice occurred during the voyage. On the 7th March the Swallow made the Azores, or Western Islands, and passing between St. Michael and Terceira,t»dropped anchor on the 20th at Spit- head. More than six months before the return of Carteret, Cap- tain Cook had sailed from England on the first of those expe- n * The date assigned to this rencounter by Bougainville, in the text of his book (p. 386), is the 25th of February, atid the 18(h is that given in the introduction (p. 7), where he says Carteret arrived in England in June, two months later than the true date. t The Hibliotheque Universelle des Voyages, par M. Albert Mont^mont, Paris, 1833, translates this part of Carteret's Journal as followa :— " Le 7 Mars nous arrivftmes aux iles Hebrides, et nous passimes entre Saint-Michel et Terccrc."— Vol. iii., p. 229. Who could have imagined ibat idt. Micbael and Terceira were among the number of the Hebrides. ^t"^ r^RCUMNAVIGATION OP BOUGAINVILLE. 175 ditions which brought him such imperishable honour and so widely enlarged the bounds of science. But before we pro- ceed to the relation of the life and actions of this illustrious navigator, we have to record the circumnavigation of the Frenchman just named, and the voyages of one or two less distinguished discoverers. CHAPTER VII. Circumnavigation of Bougainville. Project for Colonizing the Fallcland Islands.— Thuir Cession to Spain.— Diaputes with Engiland.— Settlements abandoned.— Bougainville di8> covers the Dangerous Archipelago.— Maitea.—Otaheite.— Incidents during his Stay there.— Takes a Native with him. — The Grand Cy- clades or Australia del Espiritu Santo.— Louisiade or the Soiomoiifi. — Bouca.— Choiseul and Bougainville Islands.- Return to France.— The Otaheitan in Paris.- Voyage of Marion.— Expedition of Surville.— Terre des Arsacidos.— Voyage of Shcnland.— New Georgia.— Retro- spect. France was among the latest of European nations to em- bark in South Sea discovery. Her career may be said to commence with Bougainville ; for before his day she had pro- duced very few eminent navigators, and of these the adven- tures are so imperfectly recorded, that it is almost impossible to separate what is certain from what is doubtful, or to distin- guish between truth and fiction. In 1503 the Sieur Binot Paulmier de Gonneville is re- ported, in sailing to the East Indies, to have obtained a view of a southern land, by some imagined to be New Holland ; though, with a greater show of reason, it is supposed by others to be the Island of Madagascar. The discoveries of La Roche and of De Beauchesne Goum, in the latter years of the seventeenth century, have been already mentioned.* The beginning of tho succeeding age was marked by several French expeditions into the Pacific, but which were attended by no results of any interest or importance. It is only ne- cessary to advert to one of them — that of Le Gentil de la Barbinais — and even this is involved in so much doubt, that * See p. 111, 112. i [1 w. i 176 CIRCUMNAVIGATION OP BOUGAINVILLE. the acute Bumey has questioned " if such a voyage was really made by such a person."* This officer is said to have en- gaged as supercargo of a French ship, under an EngHsh com- mission, bound for the South Sea. He left France in August, 1714, Avas at Concepcion in March following, and about a twelvemonth afterward pro eeded to China. Subjected there to various delays, he embarked on board another vessel, and returned home in 1718. His narrative is disfigured by the grossest ignorani^e, and is perfectly useless for any geographi- cal purpose. As a specimen of his accuracy, it may be men- tioned that he places Port Desire on Tierra del Fuego ; as- signs to Staten Island a more southerly latitude than Cape Horn ; and tells that this latter promontory was discovered by a certain Captain Hooni, who gave it his own name. The first French circumnavigation had its origin in a de- sign of colonizing the Falkland Islands — a project which, as we have seen, occupied a prominent place in the expedition of Commodore Byron, t liOuis Antoine do Bougainville was bom at Paris in 1729, of a family of which he was not the only distinguished member — the writings of his elder brother, Jean-Pierre, hav- ing assigned him a high rank as a geographer, a critic, an anti- quary, and a poet. The early life of the fonner was marked more by activity than by steadiness of purpose. He passed through a variety of professions, and was successively a barris- ter, secretary to an ambassador, an adjutant, a captain of dra- goons, an aid-de-camp, and a colonel of infantry. In all these capacities he discharged his duties with great reputation, and among other honours which he received, his* sovereign con- ferred on him the order of Saint Louis. When the peace of 1763 deprived him of a fteld for the exertion of his military talents, he turned his attention to naval affairs : and, struck with the happy situation of the Falkland Islands as a place '" Cliron. Hifit. Discov., vol. iv., p. 508. t BoujtainviHe, who had ap^ieared as an author before h5s circum- navigation, hinriHeir wrote the history or his voyage, under the title of X Voyage autour du Monde par la Frigate du Roi La Boudeuse et la FlOte L'Etoile, 1766-1760. Paris, 1771," 4to Another edition appeared in 1772, in two volunnefl 8vo. ; and in the same year an abridged trans- lation into the German language was publislied at Leip8ic,in one volume Svo. An English translation, by John Keinhold Forstcr, was printed at London in 1772, in one volume 4to. Occasion will be taken to point «iU a ftw of ti» blunders which disfigure this publication. off tol thl ar r v^ % CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF BOUGAINVILLE. 177 of refreshment for vessels sailing to the Pacific, he proposed to the French government the estabUshment of a settlement there. The expense of the expedition he undertook to dis- charge from his owoi private resources, aided by his relatives ; and having procured two vessels, the one of twenty,* the other of twelve guns, he set sail from St. Malo on the 15th of September, 1763. After touching at Santa Catalina and at Monte Video, to procure a stock of horses and horned cattle, he arrived at the Falklands on the 31st of January in the following year ; and, having sailed along the northern coast in search of a harbour, came to a great bay in the eastern extremity of the cluster, which seemed to be well fitted for the proposed coltfny. On landing, he discovered the cause of an illusion which had deceived many of the early voyagers, to whom it appeared that these islands were covered with wood — an ef- fect produced by a gigantic rush, not less than five feet in height. He remarked, too, the singular fearlessness with which the animals, hitherto the only inhabitants of these bleak regions, approached the colonists ; and that the birds permit- ted themselves to be taken by the hand, and even voluntarily alighted on the persons of the new settlers. When the islands were lately visited by his majesty's ships Tyne and Clio, the British officers made a similar observation. " The snipes were abundant in the marshy places, and so heedless of approach as almost to submit being trodden upon before taking to flight ;" and the wild geese are described as " stand ing goggling with outstretched necks at their assailants, merely trying to get out of the way with feet, when wings would have served them better, "t Bougainville's little establishment consisted of no more than twenty-seven individuals, five of whom were females, and three children. On the 1 7th of March they commenced the construction of their future habitations, which were merely huts covered with rushes. They also erected a magazine ca- pable of containing provisions for two years, and a small fort mounting fourteen pieces of cannon. To encourage this fee- * Buriiey, on what authority we know not, describes the larger of the two vessels as carryini? twenty-four guns.— Chron. Hist. Discov., vol. v., p. 14.?. M. de Bougainville's words are—" L'Aigle de vingt canons et le Sphinx de douze." — Voyage autour du Mondn. )». 48. T Narrative of a Visit to the Fallviand Idiiinds, by an Officer of the Tyne ; published in the Athenifiuni, Numbers 899 and 300, 90(h and 27ih July, 1833. 1 1, 178 CIRCUMNAVIGATION OP BOUGAINVILLE. M ble community, M. dc Nerville, cousin to the navigator, con- sented to remain in charge of their interests until his relative should return from France with supplies ; and, having made these arrangements, the latter solemnly took possession of the country in his sovereign's name, and on the 8th of April set sail for France. In October he again departed from St. Malo, and reached the Falklands on the '6th January, 1765, having during the voyage made a fruitless search for Pepys' Island. He found the settlers in perfect health, and, having landed those he had brought with him, he proceeded to the Straits of Ma- gellan, in order to take in a coiqo of wood for their use. From this voyage, in which he saw the fleet of Commodore Byron, he returned on the 29th of March ; and on the 27th April fol- lowing sailed again for his native country, leaving behind him no fewer than eighty persons.* In the latter part of the same year he despatched a vessel from France, which was accom- panied with a store-ship belonging to the king, carrying pro- visions and ammunition to the settlement. These left the col- ony in a prosperous condition ; its numbers were about 150 ; the governor and commissary (I'ordonnatcur) were provided with commodious mansions of stone, and the rest of the population had houses built of turf. There were three maga- zines for public and private stores ; of the wood brought from the Straits several vessels had been built, besides two schoon- ers destined to make a survey of the coasts ; and a cargo, consisting of oil and the skins of sea-wolves, was consigned to the mother country. It will be in the recollection of the reader, that, in January, 1765, Commodore Byron had taken possession of the Falklanda in the name of his Britannic Majesty, and had rapidly surveyed their coasts and harbours, t In 1776 an Engheh settlement was made at Port Egmont (the Port de la Croisade of the French) ; and in December of that year Captain Macbride, of the Jason frigate, having touched at the establishment formed by Bougainville, claimed the islands as belonging to the British crown, and threatened to force a landing if it were not amicably conceded. His threats did not require to be ex- • *' La colonie se trouvait compos^e de quatre-vingts personnes," says M. de Bougainville, p. 52. This Mr. J. R. Forsler tranHlates— " The colony consisted of twenty-four persons."— P. 41. The rame statement is repeated at p. 135, vol. iv., of" An Historical account ot ell the Voy> ages round the World." 4 vols. 8vo. London, 1773. t See above, p. 147. : CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF BOUGAINVILLE. 179 ecuted ; he was permitted to go ashore, and, having visited the governor, left the colonists in peace. Before this period, however, the Spaniards had advanced a claim, which the court of France were not inclined very seriously to resist, as they had found by this time that there was small chance that their particular views would ever be realized. Accordingly, in the month of November, 1766, the French administration acknowledged the right urged by Spain, and determined to cede the islands accordingly. M. de Bougainville, has omit- ted to mention the grounds on which this demand was bused ; but from the expression " le droit primitif," and Vus attempt to give to the Spaniards the honour of first visiting the Falk- knus, it may be conjectured that their clbim was made on this footing. " It appears to me," says he, " that the fijrst discov- ery of them may be attributed to the celebrated Amerigo Ves- pucci, who, during his third voyage for the discovery of America, in the year 1502, sailed along the northern coast. He was ignorant, indeed, if it belonged to an island or was part of a continent ; but it is easy to conclude from the route which he followed, from the latitude at which he arrived, and from his description of the coast, that it was the shore of the Malouines."* But M. de Bougainville, in forming this the- ory, must have misunderstood the main facts on which he pro- ceeds. " We found this land," says Vespucci, " altogether barren, without harbours, and destitute of inhabitants." These remarks cannot apply to the Falkland Islands, which, says Bur- ney, " in every quarter present good harbours, where safe an- chorage may be found." Put even if the merit of making it known is to be attributed to Vi^spucci, still it confers no " droit primitif on the Spanish crown, as that navigator, during the voyage in question, was in the service of Emanuel, king of Portugal. + says The imcnt sVoy- * Voyage, p. 47 The Malonines is the name commonly applied by the FmncU to th^ duster, which, to the gri£70UB perplexity of geogra* phere. has at diffemtt times received the names of Davis's Soathern Isl- ands, Hawkins's Muden-land, Slbaldde Weert'e Islands, Pepys*^ Island, Belfia Aufitrali*, Isles of St. Louis, Malouines, Isles Noavelles, and Falk- land Islands. t It has been already stated (above, p. 67) that these islands were dincovered by Captain John Davis, and any Isngfhened discussion of Vei have een previously visited by La Roche and Dncloa Guyot.— Voyase de la CoquUle, Fartie Historique, vol. i., p. 06. '■ , « y- -Tttg'g—- ^ ' ;! -W! I claim iroceed to the )uing a Bceived twenty- f at the t to sea obliged, tie made articular >f eight- voyage, lunteers, oys, and »nnce de mission to arrived at commis- atnds. In ty, and on e islands, he proper r national nired with •e as from king was lain under jlngton Irv- [certainly '^f laftertheai- Inni exceed tbat Malte ■by Kougain- , " ibat these Qve vemelB Biicb name." .lis wote was fM. Uttr«r- 1 not divcov- jredbyVes- MM tf> bave ^oyasa de la CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF BOUGAINVILLE. 18! the dominion of their new sovereign — a permission of which several famihcs availed themselves. The rest embarked in the Spanish vessels, which sailed for Monte Video in the end of April, leaving Bougainville to wait the arrival of the Etoile. Before entering on the narrative of his voyage, it may be proper briefly to advert to the fate of the settlers on these con- tested islands. In November, 1769, an English frigate, which cruised in those seas, fell in with a schooner belonging to Pert Solidad, as the station was now named. The claims of the British captain were met by strong assertions of right on the side of the Spaniard ; but the parties contented themselves with formal protests and declarations, and no hostilities ensued for some months. On the 4th of June, 1770, a vessel of the same nation put into Port Egmont, under pretence of distress, but the arrival, three days after, of four other frigates, her consorts, speedily led to the disclosure of the real objects of the visit. This force consisted of five ships, bearing 134 guns and upwards of 1600 man, including a party of soldiers and ma- rines, who were accompanied by a train of artillery, comprising twenty-seven pieces, besides four mortars and some hundred bombs. These extensive preparations are certainly placed in a ludicrous point of view, when it is mentioned that they were directed against "a wooden block-house, which had not a port-hole cut in it, and only four pieces of cannon, which were sunk in the mud, to defend it."* The officer in command saw the impossibility of making any effectual resistance, and only waited the actual commencement of hostilities that he might demand articles of capitulation. These were concluded on the 10th of June ; and shortly afterward all the settlers embarked in the frigate, and reached England in September. The intelligence of these transactions excited a strong sensa- tion there, and the popular voice was loud in demanding redress for this act of injustice. Ministers were charged with mean- ness in tamely submitting to an insult on the nation, and sev- eral motions on the subject were m&de in parliament. After much negotiation, the matter was amicably arranged, by a dec- laration of the Spanish sovereign, that "he disavowed the said violent enterprise." At the same time he gave his con- sent that the English should be reinstated in the same condi- tion as before the 10th of June— coupled, however, with a *" Annual Register for 1771, p. 9. :! i * 182 CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF BOUGAINVILLE. reservation, that this concession should not anywise " affect the question of the prior right of sovereignty of the islands." In virtue of this explanation, Port Egmont was formally re- stored to the British in September, 1771 ; but the settlement, which had led to so much discussion, and nearly involved the country in war, was found so unprofitable, that it was aban- doned the succeeding year. The history of the establishment which the British government has recently made in these isl- ands belongs to another part of our work. We now return to M. de Bougainville, who, having remained at the Falklands during the months of March, April, and May, 1767, without being joined by the store-ship that was to ac- company him, at length set sail for Rio Janeiro in the begin- ning of June. This port had been aj^ointed as a place of rendezvous in the event of L'Etoile failing to reach the Ma- louines ; and on his arrival, he found that his consort had been in the harbour about a week. He continued there until the middle of July, when he proceeded to Monte Video; where he was so long detained by various accidents, that he did not resume his voyage till the month of November was far advanced. The Cape de las Virgenes was made on the 2d December, and on the 23d of January, 1768, he cleared the western entrance of the Straits of Magellan. During this pas- sage he had various interviews with the tribes, both on Tierra del Fuego and on the continent. In a group of Patagonians which he describes, there was none taller than five feet ten inches, nor below five feet five, French measure ; which, being reduced to the English standard, gives as the greatest stature six feet 2'57[04 inches, and as the smallest, five feet 10*334 inches. We are told, at the same time, that the crew of L'Etoile had, on a previous voyage, seen several natives whose height exceeded by four inches that now stated. • His first object, on entering the Pacific, was to search for Davis's Land, which, like many previous navigators, he did not find. He then directed his course in a more westerly di- rection, and on the 22d of March discovered four small isl- ands, to which he gave the name of Les Quatre Facardins. The wind prevented him from approaching this group, and he therefore bore westward for a small island about four lcague» distant. So heavy a sea broke on all sides, that it was found impossible to get ashore on this little spot, which, from the- appearance of its inhabitants, was named L'lle des Lanciexs. CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF B0V6AINVILLI. 183 At daybreak on the 23d land was again visible ; which, on examination, proved to be an islet in the shape of a horse- shoe very much elongated, whence he was induced to bestow on it the name of L'lle de la Harpe. Captain Cook supposes Les Quatre Facardins to be identical with the Lagoon Island discovered in his first voyage, and L'lle des Lanciera and L'lle de la Harpe to be the same as his Thrum Cap and Bow Island.* In this hypothesis he has been followed by M. Fleurieu, Captain Beechey, and some other writers ; but, much as we are disposed to respect his opinion, we cannot, in this instance, yield our assent. Bow Island and L*Ile de la Harpe are evidently one, and Les Quatre Facardins may witli some probability be regarded as only another name for the Lagoon, though Cook's remark, that "the whole looked like many islands," is rather opposed to M. de Bougaiiiville*s description of " quatre ilots." But our chieif objection is to the identification of Thrum Cap with L'lle des Landers. In the French officer's account of the latter, one of the most prominent features is the cocoa-tree. "Tout I'interieur,'* says he, "^toit convert de bois toufFas, au-dess-us desqttels s'tlevoient les tiges ficondes des cocotiers ;'* and again, " Les cocotiers nous offroie^it partout leurs fruits, et leur ombre sur nn gazon imatlli de fleurs.^^i Of Thrum Cap, Cook says, ** Nor could we distinguish any cocoanut-trees, though we were within half a mile of the shore. "t There is a still more material discrepance in the extent of these islands ; for while the one just named is described as " not much above a mile in compass,"^ we are told that L'lle des Lanciers is a league in diameter. Captain Beechey, in supporting the theory of Cook, mentions a circumstance which, had he attended to Bougain- ville's description, must have convinced him it could never apply to Thrum Cap. That island, the gallant captain re- marked, was " well wooded, and steep all rounds As we approached L'lle des Lanciers, says the Frenchman, " we per- ceived that it was surrounded by a very level shore ofsand.*^\ * GJeneral Introduction to Cook's Second Voyage, p. xviii. See below, p. 219,220. , t Voyage, p. 179. i Hawkesworth's Coll., vol. ii., p. 73. ^ Hawkeswonh'sColl., vol.ii.,p.73. Captain Beechey says, "Thrum Cap is only 17C0 yards long, by 1200 broad.^— Voyage to the Pacific, vol. i., p. 255, et ibid., 210. II *< Nous d^couvrlmes qu'elle est bord£ d'une plage de sable tr^s uule.** •-Voyage, p. 179. ? , * 184 CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF BOUGAINVILLE. These striking difTerences lead us to the conclusion, that Thrum Cap is a discovery of which the honour is due to Cook, and that L'lle des Lanciers must be sought for in some other island of the same archipelago. On the 25th La Boudeuse was near a very low island stretching from southeast to northwest, in length about twenty- four miles ;* and for two days her course lay among several others, which, being partly overflowed and surrounded by rocks and breakers, rendered the navigation very perilous. To the whole, lying between Les Quatre Facardins and these last, was given the general name of "L'Archipel Dangereux." Eleven were seen, but it was conjectured that there were many more, and M. de Bougainville was of opinion that Qui- ros discovered the south part of the chain in 1606, and that it is the same to which, in 1722, Roggewein gave the name of the Labyrinth. The voyagers still pursued a westerly course, and on the morning of the 2d of April descried a high and very steep mountain, which they named Le Boudoir or Le Pic de la Boudeuse. This is the Maitea of our modem maps, the Os- naburg Island of Wallis, and probably the La Decena of Quiros. As they drew near, they beheld land more to the westward, of which the extent was undefined. They imme- diately bore down for this ; but it was not until the morning of the 4th that they were sufficiently close to hold any com- munication with the inhabitants. These came off in their skiffs, and presented a small hog and a branch of banana in token of amity ; and very soon after, the ships were surround- ed with more than 100 canoes, engaged in a brisk traffic. The French voyager seems to have been as strongly impressed with the beauty of Otaheite as was his predecessor Wallis. " The aspect of the coast," says M. de Bougainville, " was very pleasing. The mountains rose to a great height, yet there was no appearance of barrenness, all parts were covered with woods. We could scarcely believe our eyes when we beheld a peak clothed with trees, even to its solitary summit, which rose to the level of the mountains in the interior part of the isle. Its breadth grew gradually less towards the top, and at a distance it might have been taken for some pyramid * " Vingt'quatre milles."— Voyage, p. 182. This is translated by J, B. Forster " twenty-four leagues.^ I* CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF BOUOAINYIl/LE. 185 the was of a vast height, which the hand of a tasteful decorator had inwreathed with garlands of foliage. As we sailed along the coast, our eyes were struck with the sight of a beautiful cas- cade, which precipitated itself from the mountain-tops, and threw its foaming waters into the sea. A village was sit- uated at the foot of the waterfall, and there appeared to be no breakers on the shores."* On landing, he was received with mingled demonstrations of joy and curiosity ; and the chief of the district forthwith conducted him to his residence. Here he found several women, who saluted him by laying their hands «n their breasts, and repeating several times the word tayo. An old man, also an 'inmate of the mansion, seemed to be dis- pleased with the appearance of the strangers, and withdrew without answering their courtesies, but he manifested neither fear, astonishment, nor curiosity. After having examined the house,t the navigator was invited to a repast of fruits, broiled fish, and water, on the grassy turf in front, and he received several presents of cloth and ornaments. A proposal made by the stranger to erect a camp on shore was received with evident displeasure, and he was informed that though his crew were at liberty to stay on the island du- ring the day, they must retire to their ships at night. On his wishes being further urged, he was asked if he meant to remain for ever ; to which he answered that he would depart in eighteen days. An ineffectual attempt was made by the natives to reduce the period to nine ; but they at last con- sented, and at once resumed their former amicable bearing. The chief set apart a large shed for the accommodation of the sick ; the women and children brought antiscorbutic plants and shells, when they learned that these were prized by the French ; and the males gave their cheerful assistance in sup- plying the vessels with wood and water. Every house was open to the strangers, and the natives vied with each other i& ♦ Voyage, p. 187, 188. t During this examination, M. de Bougainville observed an image of one of the deities of the natives, and has given a very graphic deacriu- tion or it in his work. His trannlator, Mr. J. R. Forster, in a note on this passage, denies the existence or idolatry in Otahdte, and with cool ar- rogance remarks, that " had M. de Bougainville looked upon many things with a more philosophical eye, his account would have proved leM sub- ject to mistakes."— P. 221. We need not say, that in this instance the mistake exi£>ts only in the " more philosophical eye" ik'the translator. Q 2 ^. Av:: IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 1.1 11.25 liilM |25 |Z2 Photographic Sdences Corporation 23 WBT MAIN STRffT WiBSTIR.N.Y. MSSO (716) 172-4303 .** :^A V 186 CIACUMNAVIGATION OF BOUGAINVILLE. Dancing Woman of OtaheHe. excess of hospitality. They welcomed them with songs and feasts, and exnibited their dances and wrestling-matches be- fore them. *' Often, as I walked into the interior," says Bou- flainville, " I thought I was transported into the Garden of Eden ; we crossed grassy pldns covered with fair fruit-trees, and watered by smul •rivulets which di£fused a delicious cool- ness around. Under the shade of the groves lay groups of the natives, all of whom gave us a friendly salutation ; those whom we met in the paths stood aside that we might pass, and everywhere we beheld hospitality, peace, calm joy, and all signs of happiness."* But this paradise was perfect only in appearance; for the possessors of it were such apcom- pUshed pilferers, that nothing was safe within their reach. " We were obliged," says he, " to take care even of our pockets ; * Voyage, p. IM. i i B. gs and les be- s Bou- den of -trees, cool- ips of those pass, and |t only pcom- sach. pkets ; • CIRCCMNATieATION OF BOrOAINTILU. 187 5 for the thieves of Europe are not more adroit than the inhab> itants of this country." Murder, too, was soon introduced into this elysium ; several of the islanders were found slain, and evidently by the arms of the Europeans ; though the ^ forts of the captain were in vain exerted to discover the cul- prits. The natives shortly after withdrew from the neigh- bourhood of the camp, the houses were abandoned, no canoe was seen on the sea, and the whole island appeared like a desert. The Prince of Nassau, who was sent out with four or live men to search for the people, found a great number of them, with the chief Ereti, about a league distant. The leader approached the prince in great fear ; while the women, who were all in tears, threw themselves on their knees and kissed his hands, weeping, and repeating several times, " Tayo, mate P* (You are our friends, yet you kill us !) The prince succeeded in a short time in inspiring them with :onfi- dence, and their former intercourse was renewed, even with greater demonstrations of kindness on the part of the savages. The bad ground, which in nine days cost him six anchors, proved a powerful reason for shortening his stay. When the chief perceived them setting sail, he leaped into the first canoe he could find on shore and rowed to the vessel, where he em- braced his visiters, and bade them farewell in tears. He took by the hand an islander who had come off in one of the skiffs, and presented him to the commander, stating that his name was Aotourou, that he desired to go with him, and begging that his wish might be granted. The young man then embraced a handsome girl who seemed to be his mis- tress, gave her three pearls from his ears, kissed her once more, and, nqtwithstanding her grief, tore himself from her arms and leaped on board. " Thus," says Bougainville, " we quitted that good people ; and I was no less surprised at the sorrow which our departure occasioned to them, than a*; the affectionate confidence they showed on our arrival." The French navigator testified his sense of the beauty and enchantments of this country by bestowing on it the name of Nouvelle Cythdre — an appellation which, like that given by his predecessor Wallis, has been supplanted by the native title of Otaheite. As they continued their course westward, they discovered an island which Aotourou called Oumaitia, and which is, per- haps, identical with that of Sir Charles Saunders, one of the \ 188 CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF BOUGAINVILLE. indigenous appellations of which is Maiaoiti.* It was now the 16th of April, and M. de Bougainville shaped his course so as to avoid the Pernicious Islands of Roggewein. One night when there was not a cloud in the sky, and the constel- lations shone in all their tropical brilliancy, Aotourou, pointing to a star in the shoulder of Orion, bade them direct their pro- gress by it, and in two days they would reach a fruitful coun- try which he knew, and where he had friends. Finding that his suggestions were not complied with, he endeavoured to seize the helm and turn the vessel towards the desired point. It was with great difficulty that he was quieted, and the refusal evidently gave him much sorrow. At daybreak he climbed to the topmast, and remained there the whole morning, looking steadfastly in the direction of the territory which he wished to reach. To the islands which he had passed smce he quit- ted the Dangerous Archipelago, Bougainville gave the name of L'Archipel de Bourbon. On the 3d of May land was seen to the northwest, and, on a nearer approach, proved to be one of a cluster of islands, among which the French captain sailed several days. The information which he has collected regarding this' group (the Bauman Islands of Roggewein) is, however, very scanty, and he may be said, indeed, to have effected nothing more than t9 give an assurance of its existence. The inhabitants spoke a unguage distinct from that of Otaheite, and appeared to be- long to a different and more savage race. He named their abode L'Archipel des Navigateurs; and to a small island which he saw shortly after he gave the appellation of L'En- fant Perdu. At daybreak on the S2d a long and high land was discov- ered to the westward, and when the sun rose two islands were discerned, and named He de la Pentecdte and He Aurore. As they sailed along the eastern coast of the latter a small but very lofty eminence was seen ; it resembled a sugar- loaf in shape, and was called Le Pic de TEtoile.t Shortly after some mountains were perceived towering above Aurora * Ellis's Polynesian Researclies, Sd edition, vol. i., p. 8. Th« posi- tion assisned to Oumaitia does not agree, bowever, witli the sitaation ofMaiaoTti. t Tills pealc, in Bougainville's chart, is called Fie de PAverdi^m dis erepnnce we should not have noticed, had it not been transferred to the excellent chart prefixed to Captain Cook's second voyage, and thus apt to perplex the Euglish reader. LE. ^at now s course n. One constel- pointing heir pro- ful coun- ling that rourcd to ed point, e refusal imbed to , looking e wished ! he quit- he name , and, OB f islands, ^s. The roup (the anty, and e than t9 to he- ed their island L'En- discov- ids were Aurore. a small sugar- Shortly Aurora 1*9 poai- litaation CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF BOUGAINVILLE. 189 Island, and at sunset the voyagers were full in view of th« coast of a high and very extensive land. In the morning they sailed along its northwest shore, which was steep and covered with trees ; no huts were perceptible, but several canoes de- scried at a distance, and columns of smoke rising from the forests, showed that it was inhabited. About nine o'clock a party was sent on shore to procure wood ; they found the beach crowded with natives, who were armed with bows and arrows, and made signs to forbid their landing. As the French continued to advance, the savages gradually drew back, but still in the attitude of attack, and the distribution of a few pieces of red cloth only produced among them a sort of sullen confidence ; they still kept to their arms and watched the voyagers with undisguised suspicion. M. de Bougain- ville landed in the afternoon to perform the ceremony of taking possession of the new territories, and the boats having completed their lading, the whole party received orders to re- turn. Scarcely had tney left the shore, when the natives ad- vanced to the edge of the water and directed against them a shower of stones and arrows. A few muskets were fired into the air ; but the savages stiH pressing on to the assault, a more deadly discharge was directed against them, and they fled into the woods with great cries. Bougainville divides these islanders into two classes — ^black and mulatto. Their lipa are thick ; their hair woolly and frizzled ; their bodies smaU^ ugly, and ill made ; and their language different from that of Otaheite. Their arms were bows and arrows, clubs of iron* wood, and slings for projecting stones ; they wore ornaments in their nostrils, a sort of bracelets on their arms, and plates of turtle-shells on their necks. Their condition seemed to be very miserable ; they appeared to be engaged in intestine war ; and the harsh sound of a sort of drum was frequently heard in the interior of the woods calling them to the combat. From the prevalence of the loathsome disease of leprosy, Bougain- ville named this L'Isle des L6preux. For several days he con- tinued to sail among numerous islands, the inhabitants and general appearance of which exactly resembled that which he ad visited. He was unable, however, to determine either the number in the cluster, or to examine any of them so closely as to warrant the imposing of separate names. He had no doubt that this archipelago was the Australia del £s- piritu Santo of Quiros, and even concluded that he bad re- 190 CUtCUMNAH'IGATION OF BOUGAINVILLE. ( ] f( discovered the Bay of San Felipe y Santiago of that navi- gator.* Notwithstanding this conviction, he gave to the group the title of L'Archipel des grandes Cyclades — a name whicn has been superseded by that of New Hebrides bestowed by Cook. A late French geographerf has proposed a third designation, that of Archipel de Quiros, in honour of the first visiter. While the voyagers were among the Grand Cyclades, a singular discovery was made on board the Etoile. The fig- ure, voice, and beardless chin of Bar6, the servant of M. de Commergon the naturalist, had excited suspicions of his sex, which were removed only by the hardih. od with which he endured toils and privations. The quick eyes of the Otahei- tans, however, pierced his disguise the moment he set foot on shore ; and dler this recognition, finding it vain to attempt concealment any longer, Bar6 confessed to the captain that she was a woman, and told him the tale of her life. At an early age she became an orphan, and the loss of a lawsuit in- volved her in such distress as induced her to assume the dress of a man. She entered into the family of a Genevese gentleman at Paris, and served him as valet for some time ; when, anxious to make the voyage of the world, she ofifered her services to M. de Gommer9on at Rochefort, just as he was on the point of embarking. " Je lui dois la justice," says the commandant, ** qu'elle s'est toujours conduite k bord avec la plus scrupuleuse sagesse. EUe n^est ni laide ni joUe, et n'a pas plus de vingt-six ou vingt-sept ans. II faut con- venir que si les deux vaisscaux eussent fait naufrage sur quel- que ile ddserte de ce vaste ocSan, la chance eQt btb fort sin- gulidre pour Bar6."t M. de Bougainville lost sight of the Grand Cyclades on the 29th of May, and continued to bear nearly due west till the night of the 4th of June, when the moon enabled him to dis- cover that he was in the vicinity of a low sandy coast. As morning advanced, he found it to be u small islet, nearly level with the water ; he named it La Bliture de Diane. Next day several pieces of wood and some unknown fruits floated by the slup, and on the 6th many shoals and rocks were per- ceived. These appearances induced him to alter his course ^ Scfi &Y)OVfi 1) 84 I Abr«g£ de G(6ograpbie, par Adrien Balbi, p. 1S67. ) Voyage, p. 354. \ LLE. that navi- ire to the name bestowed ed a third f the first yclades, a Thefig- of M. de >f his sex, "which he [le Otahei- set foot on to attempt ptain that 3. At an lawsuit in- Bsume the Genevese )me time ; le offered ust as he , justice," ite k bord ie ni joUe, faut con- sur quel- fort sin- les on the St till the |m to dis- Wt. As rly level Next ts floated /ere per- ls course CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF BOVOAINTILIiE. 191 to the north, in which direction he stood for three days with- out seeing land. Long before dawn, however, on the morn- ing of the 10th, a delicious odour indicated that he was ap- E reaching a coast, and with the increase of Ught he found imself in a large and beautiful gulf, to which he gave the name of Cul-de-sac de TOrangerie. " I have seldom seen,'* says he, " a country of a fairer aspect. A low land checkered with plains and groves, spread along the margin of the sea, and rose in an amphitheatre to the mountains in the interior, -whose heads were hid in clouds. But the melancholy condi- tion to which we were brought did not allow of onr visiting this magnificent coimtry." He once more altered^ his course, and steered to the eastward along the shore of this new land, which he coasted until the 25th, when, having doubled its eastern point, which he named Cap de la D^Uvrance, he saw towards the north an open sea, into which he gladly entered. He gave the name of Louisiade to this discovery, of which he ascertained Uttle more than the existence, and which is still ▼eiy imperfectly known. On the 28th land was once more perceived in the norths west, which, on a closer approach next day, was found toi consist of two islands. The inhabitants were perfectly Mack ; their hair was curled and long, and stained of various colours, white, yellow, and red<; they wore bracelets, and small plate» of a white substance on the necks and forelieads ; they were armed vrith bows and speurs ; and their cries and general de- meanour indicated a warlike disposition. The boats, in searchinff for an anchorage, found a capacious bay, into which a river discharged itself ; but, while engaged in examining it, they were assailed by abmit 150 of the natives, embarked in ten canoes. These savages fought with much bravery, but were soon put to flight, and two of their skififs captured. One of them had carved on it the head of a man, the eyes beinff mother of pearl, the ears of tortoise-shell, and the lips stained of a very bright scarlet ; the appearance, on the whole, was that of a mask with a very long beard. The jaw of a man, half broiled, was found in one of the canoes. In noticing this afiray, Bougainville makes an observation which has been am- ply verified by succeeding navigators : " We have observed throughout this voyage, that the savages of a black complex- ion are generally more barbarous than those tribes that ap- proach more nearly to white.** The bay where this attack took place, and the land to which it belonged, were naibed i 192 CIRCUMNATIOATION OF BOVOAINYILLE. ?•. t I \ \ \ t- ^ lie et Bale Choiseul, and the island has since been identified as one of the Solomons of Mendana, the Arsacides of Survilley and the New Georgia of Shortland. He now determined to seek a passage through the channel which seemed to divide the two islands, and soon had the sat- isfaction to find that it was a strait which gradually opened as he proceeded. It was named Bougainville's Straits, and a current at the southern entrance received the appellation of Raz Denis. On the morning of the 3d July the Island of Choiseul was no longer visible, and he stood ^ong the shore of the western land just called after himself, which rose into very high mountains, and was terminated towards the south- west by a lofty promontory, denominated Cap PAverdi. Land was again perceived still farther to the northwest, and distinct- ly separated from the cape just described by a strait or gulf. Some of the natives came near the ship, and continued, to cry out, " Bouca ! Bouca ! Onell^ !" from which the French- man designated their island Bouca. It is believed to be the same with the Anson or Winchelsea Island of Carteret, and is remarkable for the density of its population.* The Inhab- itants had their ears pierced and drawn down ; and many had their hair stained red, and white spots painted on differ- ent parts of their bodies. Their canoes were smaller, and of a different construction from those sA Choiseul. On the afternoon of the 5th two diminutive islands were perceived towards the north and northwest ; and almost at the same moment a larger one between northwest and west, which also presented the appearance of several good bays. He im- mediately shaped his course in that direction, and on the even- ing of the 6th anchored in a capacious inlet. A few days after, a piece of a leaden plate was found, having inscribed on it . '. . . HOR'DHERE ICK MAJESTY'S and curiosity having been thus awakened, a farther search dis- covered numerous and recent marks of the visit of an English vessel. In fact, Bougainville was now on the coast of New Ireland) and the harbour in which he was nK>ored, and which he had called Port Praslin, was within two leaffiies of that which Carteret had examined, and distinguished by his own name. * See above, p. 173: LE. CIRCVMNAVIOATION OF BOUOAINYILLB. 193 identified f Sunrille, 16 channel A the sat- ly opened lits, and a dilation of Island of the shore I rose into the south- di. Land d distinct- it or gulf, itinued. to e Frepch- to be the rteret, and rhe fnhab- wd many on differ* faller, and On the perceived the same , which He im- he even* ew days ibed on it arch dis- 1 English of New nd which s of that r his own He remained here till the 84th, when, ignorant of the pat- siLge which had been discovered between New Britain and New Ireland, he stood to the north, and then sailed westward alon^ the coast; of the latter. He passed the northwestern ex- tremity of this Aountn^ in the beginning of August, and on the 8th saw a low flat island about three leagues long, covered with trees. It was called Anachoret's or Hermit's Isle ; and a cluster of low islands, among which they were entangled the next day, ^received the name of L'Echiquier or the Chess* board. On Ijoivitiff these they discovered the high shores of New Guinea!, which they continued to coast till the end of the month, wh6n they entered the group of the Moluccas ; and early in September anchored at the Island of Boero, where they wore hospitably received by the Dutch governor. From this they sailed on the 7th, and in three weeks reached Batavia, ** one of the finest colonies in the world,-* says Bou- gainville ; ** and where we looked on each other as having ter- minated our voyage." The native of Otaheite who accom- panied them perhaps estimated that city more justly when he described it as " enoua mate" — (the land which kills). On the 16th of October they again set sail, and having touched at the Isle of France and the Cape of Good Hope, reached the Isl- and of Ascension on the 4th of February, 1769. They learned that Captain Carteret had departed hence only five days before their arrival, and, as has been already mentioned, they suc- ceeded in overtaking him before he reached Britain.* On the * In the Memoirs of Dr. Burney by his daughter, Madame D'Arblay, London, 1839, 3 vole. 8vo, oceura this paasaxe:— •*Tbe fbllowing note upon Captaiu Cook is copied tYom a inemorandum>bo(di of Or. Barney's: -*•* In Feimiary I bad tbe honour of receiving the illastrious Captain Cdok to dine with me in Queen Square, previously lo his second voyage round tbe world. Observing upon a table BougainviU^a Voyage taiiout duMondis he tamed it over, and made tome euriout remarkt on tte it- U^al conduct of that cireumnavigator towards kimsf\f When they met and crossed each other^ which mate me desirous to know, in examining the chart of M. de Uougainville, tbe sev<'ral irarks of tbe two navigators, Stnd exactly wbers they bad crossed or approached each Mber. Captain Cook instatUly took a,^pencil from his poeketbookj and said he would trace the route \ uihich\t did in so dear and scientific utnanner, that I wouU not take My pounds far the book /' "—Vol. i.. p.370,971. While we adnure tbe doctor's enthusiastic adoration or this relic of Cook, we cannot help smiling at his ignorance. He must have totally misunder* stood bis'* curious remarks,'* elucidated as they were by the pencil* sketch. Cooiir and BougeUnvUte never " met or nroastd edeh other,'* aa the doctor might have known if he bad earsflilly read tbe book on whieti he put so high a value. The time dorfng which Cook and Boagainville R ,. I 194 CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF BOUGAINTILLEr I6th of March the discoverers entered the port of Saint Malo, " having,'* says their commander, '* lost only seven men du- ring the two years and four months which had elapsed since we left Nantes :— > ^ * Puppilras St Iml naatv imposvef* coronas.' " The interest excited in Paris by tho appearance of the Ota* heitan who had accompanied the voyagers to Europe was very great ; and, says the leader of the expedition, T spared neither money nor trouble to render his visit agreeable and useful ta him. The account which has been left of his emotions and conduct, in a scene and under circumstances to him so ex' traordinary, is unforttonately very defective and meager. Mr. Forster, the translator of Bougainville, tells us it cannot be denied that Aotourou *' was one of the most stupid fellows ; which not only has been found by Englishmen who saw him at Paris during his stay there, and whose testimony would be decisive with the public were I at liberty to name them, but the very countrymen of Aotourou w6re, without exception, all of the same opinion, that he had very moderate parts, if any at all."* The same opinion seems to have been entertained by many of the Parisians ; and though the commanding officer combats it warmly^ he has certainly failed to adduce any proof of even moderate intelligence or capability in his barbarian ward. The only s^ht which roused his curiosity was the op' era. Of this we are told he was passionately fond — knew well on what days the house was open — and went there alone,- paying at the door like any ordinary visiter. In March, 1770, he left Paris, and embarked at Rochelle on were at sea together extends flrem 26tb Aagust, 17A8, t« 16th March, 1709. At the first of these dates the former left Englandr and on the same day •he latter crossed the line in the neighbourhood of New Guinea. In Sep- tember Cook was at Madeira and Bougainville at Batavia, where he re- nained till the 16th of October. On the 7th December the Englishman left Rift Janeifo, and en the 12th the other departed ttom the Isle of France. On the I4th January, 1769. Cook entered Strait Le Maire, and a few days after the Frenchman doubled the Cape of Good Hope. He ar^ lived in France en the I6th of March, at which time Cook was in the South Sea. At no time were they much nearer one another than half the circumilBrenGe of the globe. Coolc's remarks may have applied to the meeting o( Carteret and Bougainville (above, p. 174) ; but the tale is so> iiuiorrectly tcrid, that any ftiriher comment were useloss- * Punter's Trauslation, p. S65, note. 4v CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF BOUGAINVILLE. 195 at Malor aen du- Dd since the Ota- was very 1 neither useful ta ions and 1 so eX' er. Mr. innot be fellows ; saw him ivould be hem, but ption, all I if any at ained by g officer iny proof )arbarian the op' 1 — knew re alonOf :helle on Tch, 17«9r same day InSep- ire h« Te> glisbman e Isle of re, and a Hear^ as in the half the cd to the ale is so board a vessel bound for the Isle of France, from which the foveniment engaged to convey him to his native island, lougainville very liberally contributed thirty-six thousand francs (about 1600/. sterling), the third part of his fortune, to- wards the fittii^ff out of this expedition ; and the Dutchess of Ghoiseul expended a considerable sum in purchasing cattle, tools, and seeds, to be taken out to Otaheite. Aotourou ar- rived in safety at the Isle of France, which he left on the 18th of October, 1771, on board the Mascarin, commanded by M. Marion du Fresne, who had also under his orders a ship called the Marquis de Castries, conducted by M. du Clesmeur. Marion's instructions were to convey Aotourou (or, as he is called in the account of this voyage, Mayoa) to Otaheite ; then to explore the Southern Pacific in search of new lands ; and, finally, to examine more closely the lately rediscovered islands of New Zealand. At the Island of Bourbon the Otaheitan was attacked by the smallpox, of which disease he died shortly afterward at Madagascar. Marion then pursued his voyage to the southeast ; and, in the course of it, he discov- ered a few small islands, of which the chief are Cavern, Ma- rion, and Marion and Crozet. On the 10th of February, 1772, he arrived at Van Diemen's Land ; on the 24th he made Cape Egmont, on New Zealand ; and shortly after anchored in the Bay of Islands. The horrible massacre which took place here, of M. Marion and twenty-six of his crew, is too well known. After that catastrophe, the survivors steered for the Islands of Rotterdam and Amsterdam, two of the Tonga or Friendly group, and, without having made any discovery, vis- ited the Ladrones and the Philippines, and then returned to the Isle of France. This expedition was so closely connected with the recent enterprise from the same nation, that though a little inconsis- tent with strict chronological arrangement, we have given it a flace here instead of inserting it after the first voyage of Cook, 'or a similar reason, and to preserve uninterrupted the narra- tive of the discoveries of our great countryman, we shall here notice the endeavours of Surville and Shortland, both of which bear an intimate relation to the navigations of Carteret and Bougainville. The enterprise of Surville had for its object a commercial speculation, the nature of which it is not now easy to develop. M. de Fleurieu, to whom the public are indebted for the most n 196 CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF fiOUOAINYILLS. eomplete history of it,* has alluded to the motives with a haste and brevity which seem to indicate a desire that some- thing should be concealed or forgotten. This may be con- sidered as a partial corroboration of the account of the Abb^ Rochon,t who maintains that this officer was sent out to dis- cover a new El Dorado—a marvellous island, abounding with gold, and riches, and fine cloths, and inhabited by Jews — re- ported to have been lately seen by the English about seven nundred leagues west from the coast of Peru. The acute and learned author of the French discoveries may well be supposed anxious not to promulgate that his countrymen, in the days of Cook, listened to a tale better fitted for the dark times and heated ima^nations of the earliest adventurers ; when Juan Ponce de Leon sailed in search of the Fountain of Youth ; when golden regions were sought for every day ; and when the lost tribes of Israel were so often found in the Islands of the Caribbean Sea, or on the shores of Tierra Firm6. Whatever was the aim of Surville, the results of his voyage, in a scientific point of view, were most important. If he found not the fairy land he souffht, he mainly contribu- ted to restore to Europeans a knowledge of the Islands of Solomon, which, since their discovery by Mendana in 1667, had so often eluded the search of the most active navigators, that their very existence had become doubtful. Having completed his cargo, he sailed from Pondicherry on the 2d of June, 1769, in the Saint Jean Baptiste, a vessel of seven hundred tons, carrying twenty-six twelve-pounders and six smaller cannons. He directed his course towards the Philippines, which he passed, and, holding northward, arrived in the end of August at the Bashee Islands. On quitting these, he steered towards the southeast, with the intention of entering the South Sea in the neighbourhood of New Guinea. He crossed the line on the 23d September, and on the 6th October was in latitude 4" 38' south. Frequent signs of land had been perceived for some days ; and on the 7th an island was seen, which was named He de la Premiere Vue, and on the succeeding day a country of great extent presented itself. He continued to sail along the coast till the 13th, when he reached an excellent harbour, which he called Port Praslin. * D^couvertes des Fron^ais dans I« sud-est de la Nouvelle Guin^ Paris, ITUO. t Voyages i Madagascar et aux Indes Orieotales. Paris, 1791, LK. GIRCUMNAVIOATION OF fiOUGAINVILLl. 197 8 with a At some- be con- ;he AbM It to dia- ling with ews — re- lut seven he acute ' well be ymen, in the dark mturers ; Fountain ery day ; id in the ►f Tierra esults of nportant. contribu- slands of [in 1667, vigatorsi leny on vessel of ders and ards the arrived quitting ntion of juinea. the 5th of land a island and on 1 itself. hen he Praslin. Guin^ 01. Here he anchored, and remained nine days in the expectation of getting a supply of water and refreshments, of which his crew, though the vessel had been victualled for three years, stood already much in need. These hopes, however, were in a great degree baffled by the treachery and hostility of the savages, which soon led to a battle, in which Surville acted a part of questionable propriety. Not contented with having dispersed the natives by several murderous discharges of fire- arms, he formed the resolution of taking some of them pris- oners ; and, in prosecution of this design, did not hesitate to fire into a canoe, although the people on board seemed in- clined to peace. He killed one, and succeeded in securing another, a lad about fifteen years of age, whom he named Lova Sarega, and carried with him. Having procured a few necessaries he left Port Praslin on the 21st, designating the country to which it belonged Terre des Arsacides or Assas- sins, with a view to express the fierce character of the inhab- itants, who, in dress, arms, manners, and physical conforma- tion, resembled those described by Bougainville at Choiseul Island. The Land of the Assassins is, indeed, identified as belonging to the great archipelago of the Solomons, discovered by Mendana. It was the 6th of November before he cleared the southern point of this insular territory, of which the knowledge he ob- tained was very limited. The island which he named Inat- tendue is supposed to be the same that Carteret had seen, and called Gower. On the 30th of October he observed another, which received the appellation of L'lle des Contra- riety, and on the 3d of November he descried three small ones, culled by him Les Trois Soeurs. His o^her discoveries were, a diminutive island named He du Golfe ; two called lies de la Delivrance ; and the southern extremity of the Land of the Arsacides, on which he bestowed the appellation of Cap Oriental.* On the 7th he lost sight of these shores, and directed his course to New Zealand, where ho arrived on the 16th of De- cember, at the very time that Cook was beating about the * It has been proposed to call this eape after its disooverer, and it seems bat reasonable that his name should be connected with some part of the archipelago. Cook, in his Second Voyage (3d edit, vol. ii., p. 967), lUls into an error in representing Surville to have given " his own name'* to the land he discovered. R 2 / . I 'I I 198 CIRCUMNAVIOATION OF BOUOAINVILLC. coast. Close, however, as they were to each other, the voy- agers did not meet ; and, on the 1st Januair, 1770, Surville left the island. All hopes of Ending the Lbled land were al ready abandoned; death and disease had made sad havoc among his crew ; and the only object now entertained was to reach some £urop.?!an settlement to save the survivers, who were hardly able, even wilii the assistance of the officers, to hand the sails. In April they arrived at Callao ; and the cap- tain, anxious for an interview with the Spanish governor to solicit the assistance he so much needed, rashly put off in a small boat and perished in the surf. Scanty as was the information regarding the archipelago of the Solomon Isles acquired by this commander and his pre- decessors, Carteret and Bougainville, their eastern coasts had, nevertheless, been delineated with some degree of accu- racy ; and the voyage of Lieutenant Shortland, while guard- ing a fleet of transports from New South Wales to England, served to determine the leading features of the western shores.* This officer left Port Jackson on the 14th July, 1788, and on the Slst, at noon, discovered land nearly in the same latitude with Surville's Cap Oriental, and bestowed on it the appellation of Cape Sidney. He contmued to sail along tys coast till the 7th of August, giving names to the more prominent capes and bays, but obtaining no certain in- telligence of the nature or extent of the land. An interview with the natives showed that they agreed in all points with the description of the French navigators. On quitting this archipelago he sailed through Bougainville^s Straits, ana con- tinuing his course to the northwest, visited the Pelew Islands, and arrived at Batavia on the 19th of Novemb r. Con- ceiving the lands he had seen to be a new discovery, he con- ferred on them the appellation of New Georgia, and bestowed on the channel through which he passed the name of Short- land's Straits. But in no long time, when Uieir position was more minutely examined, it became evident that the countries observed by him belonged to the same group with the Terre des Arsacides and the Isle Choiseul. The names imposed by the English were then dropped ; the absurd title given by SurviUe was ^so abandoned ; and geographers now rec- * A narrative of this ezpsdition will be (bund in "The Voyafs of Gof- onor Philip to Botany Bay. London, 1780," 4to, p. 183-881. , the voy- I, Surville [ weie al lad havoc ed was to vers, who fiicers, to 1 the cap- vemor to t off in a pelago of I his pre- ■n coasts of accu- le guard- England, western Ith July, •ly in the owed on I to sail s to the rtain in- nterview Its with ine this ind con- Islands, Con- he con- estowed Short- ion was ountries e Terre mposed given ow rcc- I of Gov- ^ CIRCDMNAVIOATION OF BOUGAINVILLE. 199 )gnise this cluster by the name of "The Solomons," be- stowed by its first visiter, Mendana. Having traced the progress of discovery in the Pacific Ocean during two centuries and a half, it may now be convenient to pause ; and, before proceeding to the history of the greatest navigator that ever sailed on its waters, survey what had been already accompUshed, and what still remained to be done. Numerous as were the expeditions into the South Sea, by far the greater portion of it was yet unexplored. Northward of the equator one track only was followed, namely, that be- tween Mexico, or New Spain, and the Philippines, about the latitude of 15° N. ; and from this line little variation was made, nor was there any attempt to examine the unknown sea on either side. The great expanse of the Pacific south of the line had indeed been more extensively navigated ; yet, with one exception, the courses o( the several voyagers lay within very narrow limits. The discoveries of Quiros were between 10° and 25° of south latitude ; Schouten's route was nearly in the parallel of 15° S. ; Roggewein's was almost coincident ; and Mendana*s never lay far from 10° S. The most distant land in that direction reached by Wallis was Whitsunday Isl- and, in 19° S. ; Carteret attained a higher latitude, and saw Pitcaim*s Island, in 25° ; but the remotest discovery of By- ron was the group of the Disappointment Islands, in 14° S. To the north of the equator, Carteret effected nothing ; By- ron was equally unsuccessful ; and the most northerly position brought to light by Wallis, was the island in 13° 18' S., which received his own name. Bougainville's range lay between 19° S., the latitude of Les Quatre Facardins, and 5° S., the parallel of Bouca. These were the only voyagers (with the exception of Magellan) who followed new tracks ; and it will be seen that they confined themselves to the space between the line and the twenty-fifth degree of south latitude. The many other navigators whose exploits are recounted in these pages, more intent on the acquisition of Spanish gold than on the search for unknown regions, almost invariably pursued one common and well-frequented path. On entering the Pacific, they stood for Juan Fernandez, in order to recover their health, or replace their stores; they then coasted the American continent to California ; after which, they either / I V ! eoo RETROSPECT. Retraced their way to the Atlantic by Cape Horn or the Straiti , or more usually crossed the South Sea in the track of the Ma- nilla galleon. Such was the route of Drake, Cavendish, Van Noort, Spilbergen, the Nassau Fleet, the English bucaniers, Bampier, Rogers, Chpperton, Shelvocke, and Anson. The only adventurer into a high southern latitude was Tasman. Entering the Pacific from the Indian Ocean, he ad- vanced to about 44° and discovered Van Diemen*s Land. Thence, pursuing nearly the same parallel, he stood eastward till he encountered New Zealand, and, sailing along its west- em shores, bore northward till he got into the track of Schou- ten ; having discovered in his passage the Tonga Islands, on the confines of the tropic. From this recapitulation, it will be seen, that of the South- em Pacific there remained altogether unknown the great space bounded on the north by the twenty-tifth parallel of latitude, and by the meridians of long. 86° W. and 170° E. No ves- sel had yet attempted to traverse this wide extent, and, conse- quently, with respect to it there prevailed the utmost uncer- tainty and ignorance. A learned geographer writes in 1771, " So far as to absolute experience, we continue ignorant whe- ther the southern hemisphere be an immense mass of water, or whether it contains another continent and countries worthy of our search."* The portion of the Northem Pacific which remained unexplored was, perhaps, still more extensive. Such were the mighty tracts concerning which nothing had been ascertained. There were, besides, several spacious re- gions, of which certain navigators had indeed announced the existence, but who stopped short before the extent was brought to light. Of New Holland, only the western side was known ; the northem limit (the strait discovered by Torres in 1606) had passed into oblivion, and this great country was generally rep- resented as joining New Guinea ; on the south, there was no certainty whether it extended to Van Diemen's Land, or where its termination should be fixed ; to the east, it was in- volved in utter darkness ; one point only was clear, that it did not stretch beyond long. 170°, being nearly the meridian of Tasman's track. The limits of New Zealand were still more indefinite. Only its western shores had been visited, ei ei S or fir flo * Dalrymple, Hist. Coll., vol. it.— " Investigation of what may be tw- Hmt expected in the Soath Bea," p. 19. RETROSPECT. 201 e Straiti, ftheMa- lish, Van lucaniers, t. tude was in, he ad- 1*8 Land, eastward its west- of Schou- ilands, on tie South- reat space ' latitude, No ves- id, conse- )st uncer- I in 1771, rant whe- of water, js worthy [fie which «nd, for all that was then known, it might have extended east- ward to within 15° of Chili. Mr. DaLrymple remarks, that it is " still a question if Staats' Land, or New Zealand, be part of a continent or only islands ; though it is most probably the former, as Tasman supposes it to be.'* In short, the great problem of geography, the existence of a vast Southern Continent, was still unsolved. The discov- eries of succeeding years had no doubt much circumscribed the bounds assigned to it in the sixteenth century ; yet within the unvisited bosom of the Pacific there still remained ample space for a country exceeding Europe in dimensions, and sur- passing, even in its most high and palmy state, the widest empire ever seen in either hemisphere. Noir with the believ- ers in this land was its extent its only merit. Its fancied splendour and fertility were to cast into the shade all that had been told of Mexico or Peru ; for here was to be found the original fountain of their civilization, the parent-country of the first Inca! And to the nation that should discover it was Promised an accession of wealth and power greater than had owed to Spain from the conquests of Cortes and Pizarro. >'. , H.t. .- •'■V- i 1 Lybefyl^ ■' '.f 202 LIFE OP COOK ' i y K V COOK. CHAPTER VIII. Life of Cook previous to his First Voyage. /, Birth and Parentage of Cook.— His Education.— His IndentnFM with a Draper.— Apprenticeship on board a Collier.— Volunteers into the Navy. —Appointed Master of the Mercnry.— His Services at Quebec.— Hair* ttreadth Escape.— He first studies Euclid.— His Marriage.— Made Ma> rine Surveyor of Newfoundland and Labrador.— Communicates an Ob- servation oTan Eclipse to the Royal Society.— History of the Transits of Venus.— Predicted in 1620 by Kepler.— Discovery and Observation of Horrox.— First Appreciation of its U8e8.—Profes8or James Gregory. —Dr. Edmund Halley.— His Exhortation to Aiture Astronomers. — Transit of 1761.— Preparations for that of 1760.— Proposal to send a Ship with Observers to the South Sea.— Cuok promoted to the Rank of Lieutenant, and appointed to conduct it.— His Choice of a Vessel.— Sir Joseph Banks determines to join the Expedition.— Preparations and In- structions for the Voyage. James Cook was the son of humble parents. His father, also named James, and supposed, from his dialect, to be a Nor- thumbrian, was a labourer or farm-servant, and his mother was of the same rank. Both of them were highly esteemed by their neighbours for their integrity, temperance, and indus- try. They appear to have resided, first at the village of Mor- ton, in the North Riding of Yorkshire ; afterward at Marton in Cleveland, a small place in the same county, situated be- tween Gisborough and Stockton-upon-Tees. Here, in a mud- cottage, every vcfetige of which has long been swept away, the subject of this memoir was bom on uie 27th of October, 1728. He was one of nine children, none of whom survived their parents, excepting himself and a daughter, of whose his- tory nothing is recorded but that she was married to a fisher- man at Redcar, and that her home became the abode .of her father in the latter part of his life, which was extended to the long term of nearly eighty-five years. Cook was taught his letters by the village schoolmistress, Dame Walker. When he was eight years old, his father was U- nn» with a totbeNavy. ebec.— HaiN -Made Ma- Bates an Ob- ibe Transits Observation les Gregory, ronomers. — il to send a the Rank or Vessel.— Sir ons and In- is father, be a Nor- mother esteemed id indus- of Mor- t Marton lated be- ll a mud- pt away, October, survived tose his- a fisher- B .of her d to the distress, her was PREVIOUS TO HIS FIRST VOTAGE. 203 appointed hind, head servant, or bailiff, on the farm of Airy Hohne, the property of Thomas Scottowe, Esq., near Great Ayton, at the foot of Roseberry Topping ; and in the school of this place, at the expense of his father's employer, he learned writing and the rules of arithmetic. At the age of thirteen he was apprenticed to a draper, in the fishing-town of Staiths, about ten miles north of Whitby ; but this employment little accorded with the bent of his disposi' tion, which now developed itself in a strong passion for the sea. A quarrel having occurred between him and his master, his indentures were given up, and he bound himself for seven years to Messrs. John and Henry Walker, owners of two ves- sels in the coal-trade. These worthy Quakers early apprecia^ ted his good conduct and great anxiety to acquire skill in hi» profession ; and after he had served on board the Freelove, and for a short time in another ship, they promoted him to be mate of the Three Brothers. Promises were m^de to him of further preferment ; but to these, as his thoughts were already fumed to a loftier sphere, he seems to have given little heed. Mr. John Walker, one of his employers, remariied, that ** he had always an ambition to go inta the navy."* It was not observed by those who knew him at this period, that he was anywise distinguished for talent ; but no one can doub| that his active miira was then laying; the foundations of future em^ inence, or that much of the skill* in practical navigation whicb he afterward displayed was acquired in that admirable nurseiy of seamen— -the coasting-^ade. Early in 1755, on the commencement of hostilities with France, there was an active impressment in the Thames. Cook, then in his twenty-seventh year, happened to be in a vessel on the river, and was at first desirous to conceal him- self ; but, after some hesitation, he resolved to go into the ser- vice, and proceeded to Wapping, where he entered as a vol- unteer on board the Ea^e of sixty guns. Captain Hamer; Shortly afterward. Captain Hugh Palliser succeeded that offi- cer ; and quickly discerning the young man's superior sea- manship, afforded him every encouragement, rated him quar- ter-master, and from that time continued te be his steady pa^ * Memoir of Cook, by Edward Ilawke Locker, Esq., in the " Gallery •f Greenwich Hospital" (London, 1831). part i. With the amiable Qua- kers, his first IVIenda, Cook "maintained a correBpondeace to the last jsar ^ bis existence." ,, .. . J ■•- -in V -wwi'^ X'' '■' ' /' fi04 ■^ v.- LIFE OP COOK il'or^r ^t \n ■'n I Si if. ■ ' V .hi 1% M tron. Letters in his favour from friends in Yorkshire — among whom was Mr. Osbaldeston, the parliamentary representative of Scarborough — arrived in the course of a few months, and his commander obtained for him a warrant as master of the Mercury frigate, dated the 15th of May, 1759. In allusion to similar commissions for the Grampus and the Garland, both rendered abortive by unforeseen circumstances, Dr. Kippis re' marks, " These quick and successive appointments show that his interest was strong, and that the intention to serve him was real and effectual."* The Mercury received orders to join the fleet, which, under Sir Charles Saunders, was in co-operation with General Wolfe, at that time engaged in the siege of Quebec. A com« bined attack on the fortified position at Montmorency and Beauport had been concerted ; but it was necessary, in the first place, to procure accurate soundings of the St. Lawrence, between L*Ile d'Orleans and the shore on which the French army lay. This, a service of great danger, which could only be performed during the night, was, on the recommendation of Captain Palliser, intrusted to Cook, who discharged it in the most complete manner. He had scarcely achieved his task when he was discovered by the enemy, who launched a number of canoes filled with Indians to surroimd and cut him off. He instantly made for the British encampment, but was so closely pursued that the savages entered the stem of his barge as he leaped from the bow under the protection of the Eng« lish sentinels. The boat was carried off in triumph ; but Cook was able, in the words of one of his biographers, " to furnish the admiral with as correct a draught of the channel and soundings as could have been made after our countrymen were in possession of Quebec." There was reason to suppose that before this period he was entirely ignorant of drawing, having seldom or never handled a pencil ; and if this conjec- ture be well founded, it affords a striking proof of his capacity and perseverance. Not long afterward he was employed to make a survey of the whole river below Quebec ; and his chart was executed with such skill and exactness that it was immediately published by orders of the Admiralty, t * Biofrraphia Britannica (2d edition), vol. iv., p. 101. t Besides these imitortam duties, if we could tru^t the companion of hlr last voyage, Cook was employed in others of still greater cohsequenc* "At the siege of Quebec/ it is said, *'Sir Charles Saunders totnmMitt PREVIOUS TO BIS FIRST T0TA6E. 205 —among sentative iths, and er of the lusion to ind, both Lippis ro' how that erve him ch, under General A com- ;ncy and y, in the awrence, e French )uld only lendation 'ged it in E-jved his nched a cut him but was m of his the Eng- ph; but ers, "to channel ntrymen suppose Irawing, conjee- capacity oyed to and his it waf |ionofhl» equenet DininlUM His meifits now began to attract general attention, and, on the 22d of September, 1759, Lord Colville appointed him master of his pwn ship, the Northumberland, in which he re- mained on the HaUfax station during the winter. He must have long felt the dijfficulties under which he laboured from his defective education ; and we leam that he now took ad- vantage of a little leisure, afforded by the season, to instruct himself in the branches of science most necessary to his pro- fession. '* It was here, as I have often heard him say," writes Captain King, " that, during a hard winter, he tirst read Eu^ did, and applied himself to the study of mathematics and as- tronomy, without any other assistance than what a few books and his own industry afforded him."* He accompanied his lordship to Newfoundland in September following ; aided in its recapture from the French ; and by the diligence which he exhibited in surveying the harbour and heights of Placentia, secured the favourable notice of the governor of the island. He returned to England about the close of the year ; and, on the 2l8t December, 1762, married Miss Elizabeth Batts, at Barking in Essex — a woman of an amiable and generous disposition, from whose society, however, he was quickly Qalied away.f to his charge the execution of services of the first importance in the naval department. He piloted the boats to the attack of Montmorency ; con- ducted theembarcation to the heights of Abruham; examined the pas- sage and laid buoys for the security of the large ships in piticeeding up the riv.r."— Voyage to the Pacific Ocean, f«ir making Uiscoveriea in the Northfrn Heinixphere ('Jd edition, Lon on, 1785), vol. iii., p. 47. For this statement no oth<^r authority has been observed than that of Captain King, whose sketch of Cook'd life is meager and defective No allusion is made to it in the minute narrHtive of Doctor Kippis ; and, as he wrote from the information of Sir Huvh Palliser and other fl-iendsof our naviga- tor, his silence must be regarded as ronulusive. The passage, indeed, ap- pears to be a vague exaggeration of the real services of Cook, to which, it should be noted, there is no other reference made by t 'aptam King. * Voyage to the Pacific Ocean, vol. iii., p. 47. Captain King places this event under the year 1785 ; but, as he mentioned that Cook was at that lime master of the Northumberland, the date of his appointment to that vesael shows that it must have been in the succeedinc winter. At the time when the fluure discoverer thus began his second education he was in his thirty-flrst year. t An absurd story is told by some of the biographers of Cook, that he " was gudf ither to his wife ; and at the very time she was christened, had determined, if she grew ui>,on the union which aUei ward took place between them." This tale, as we were assured by the late Mr. Isaac Cragg'Smith, a relative of Mrs. Cook, is without the slightest fbundatlon; the two families were at the time unacquainted— the one residing in the S / » I 206 LIFE OF COOK In the beginning of 1763 Captain Graves, who, during^ Cook's visit, had been governor of Newfoundland, was again appointed to that office ; and being desirous to procure accu- rate surveys of the colony, he made proposals to our naviga- tor, which were willingly accepted. Towards the close of the year he returned home ; but his stay on tliis occasion was as short as on the former, for his old friend. Sir Hugh Palliser, ■ being selected to superintend that settlement, and Cook hav- ing agreed to resume his situation, he was, on the 18th of April, 1764, nominated marine surveyor. In the discharge of this duty he continued four years, occasionally returning to England, and spending the winter there. The manner in which he executed his commission called forth the highest approba^ tion. He explored the interior of the country more fully than had been hitherto done, making several valuable additions to geography ; and the charts which he afterward published were distinguished by unusual correctness. During this period also, he furnished evidence of his success in the study of practical astronomy, by " An Observation of an Eclipse of the Sun at the Island of Newfoundland, August 5, 1766, with the longi-r tude of the plcuie of observation deduced from it," commu' nicated to the Royal Society by Dr. J. Bevis, and read 30th April, 1767. It occupies only two pages in the Transactions^ and is evidently a report drawn up by the doctor — Cook hav' ing probably been in England when he imparted his notes ta that gentleman. This is consistent with the remark of Dr^ Kippis, who speaks of the year 1767 as " the last time that he went out upon his station of marine surveyor of New foundland."* suburbs or tbe metropolis, the other in Torluhire, where Cook, then onljf thirteen years old, was serving his apprenticeship. * In Watt's Bibliotheca Britaniiica, in Chalmera' Biographical Diction* ary, and in some other memoirs of Cook, there is attributed to him an octavo pamphlet, which was pubiiehed in the year i759, under the titleF of " Remarks on a Passage from the River Balise, in the Bay of HondU' ras, to Merida, the Capital of the Province of Yucatan, in the Spanish West Indies, by Lieutenant Cook." This journey he is said to have per' formed in 1765, with despatches flrom the admiral en the Jamaica station to the Governor of Yucatan, relative to the logwood cutters in the Bay of Honduras. But at that time, as has been stated, he was engaged in his survey of Newfoundland ; and in 1769, when the tract appeared, her was in the South Sea. In reply to inquiries made in regard to this pani* phlet, Mr. Isaac Cragg-Bmith, after consulting with Mra. Cook, assured US she was entirely ignorant of it, and that her knsbaad lutdnsvar boea in the Bay of Hondiuras. , e 0, during vdM again lire accu- r naviga- close of ision was Palliser, iook hav- 18th of charge of iming to ■ in which approba' uUy than litions to hed were riod alsO) practical e Sun at he longi' commu' ead SOtb sactionsf ook hav notes to k of Dr, ime thai of New then only 1 Diction* tobim an r tbe titler r Hondu- Spanish lave por« ia station the Bay igaged in wred, her his piauai* , assured Tsrboen PREVIOUS TO HIS FIRST VOYAGE. 207 At this period the attention of men of science in all parts of the world was eagerly turned to an important astronomical phenomenon, the observation of which must be considered as a leading event in the life of Captain Cook, as it gave a new direction and a higher object to his genius. This was the passage of Venus across the sun. The tran- sits of the planets were little regarded until Kepler, in a work . published at Leipsic in 1629, aroused the curiosity of astron- omers, by predicting that the solar disk would appear to be traversed by Mercury in 1631, and by Venus in the same year, and a second time in 1761. Before any part of this announce- ment could be verified, its illustrious author died (in Novem- ber, 1630) ; but the transit of Mercury was observed by Gas- sendi at Paris within a day of the time foretold ;* that of Venus, .unfortunately, was not visible to him, having taken Elace while the sun was under the horizon. This he must ave lamented the more, as Kepler had predicted that a cen- tury would pass before the recurrence of a similar phenome- non. But a young English astronomer, Jeremiah Hbrroz, having been led to turn his thoughts towards the subject, dis- covered, that on the 4th December, 1639, Venus would again Eass across the sun. This information he communicated to is correspondent, William Crabtree ; and, on the day men- tioned, these two friends — the one near Liverpool, the other at Manchester — beheld a spectacle, of which, among all the learned men in Europe, they were the only witnesses. Hor- rox wrote an account of his observations, but dying within a few days after (on 3d January, 1640), more than twenty years elapsed before his work was published. f As yet, however, no one had clearly discerned the uses to which this phenomenon has since been applied in the discov- ery of one of the most important truths in the range of science. By observations made at distant points on the globe, the as- tronomer obtains the means of determining the Sun*3 Paral- lax, or the angle which the earth's semidiameter subtends fit the sun, by means of which he can ascertain the distance of * The phenomenon was seen by several sfltronomera ; but Gassendl was the only one who published an acconnt of his observations in a tract entitled "De Mercuriu in Sole Visoet Venere Inviso, Parisiis, 1031, pro- admonitlone Kepleri, &c. Par., 1633. 410." t It was entitled, " Venus in Sole Visa, anno 1639," and first appeared Jn the *> Mercoriua in Sole Visas" of Hevelius, pablished at Dantxie in 1662. ' 208 LIFE OF COOK the one body from the other. The honour of first pointing out this important apphcation has been commonly ascribed to Edmund Halley, though it is certain that he was anticipated by one whose name is no less distinguished — James Gregory, the inventor of the Reflecting Telescope, and the first Professor of Mathematics in the University of Edinburgh. So early as 1063, this eminent mathematician, then about twenty-four years of age, proposed and solved the question — ** From the apparent conjunction of two planets to find out their paral- laxes ;" to which he annexed the scholium : — ** This prob- lem, though attended with considerable labour, may be produc- tive of the most admirable advantages, by observing the passage of Venus or Mercury over the solar disk^or thereby the Par- allax of the Sun may be discovered."* This passage demon- strates that its author was fully aware of the benefits to be de- rived from this rare occurrence, and that Halley was not the first to appreciate them. Still, to that philosopher is due the merit of satisfactorily elucidating the theory of transits, of di- recting attention towards them, and impressing upon astrono- mers the vast importance of the results to be obtained from a careful observation. His thoughts were called to the sub- ject in the year 1767, during his residence at St. Helena for the purpose of examining the stars in the southern hemi- sphere. There happened at that period a transit of Mercury, "which he observed with the utmost care. Contrary to his expectation, he was enabled to fix the very instant in which the planet, entering the sun's limb, seemed to touch it inter- nally, as also that in which it went off. He thus ascertained the amount of time occupied by the passage of Mercury over the sun*s disk, " without an error of a single second ;" for, as he informs us, " the thread of solar light intercepted between the obscure limb of the planet and the bright limb of the sun, * "ProUema.— Exduorum Planetarumconjnnctionecoriwrali utrinsque planetflB Parallaxes investigare. Scholium.— Hoc Problfnia pulcherri- mum habet UHUm, sed foraan labnriosum, in obB«rvaUonibus Veiierii. vel Mercurii iiarticulam Solisobuciraniis : ex talibus eniin Solis |iarallaxis investigmi [went.''*— Optica Promota. Aufhoi e Jaeobo Oregorio, Abre* dotienai Seoto Lond. 16A3, p. 138-130. The claim of Gregory to this Iniponaat luggeatimi was ttrst vindicated by the eentleman who now so •biy Alls the same aciidemical chair, Proretisor Wallace (ArcMBologia Scotica. vol. iii , p. 283). Bui several yearsprevious t** this he obaervet, ** I mentioned this passage to the laie Dr. Huiton, and he very properly n<»ticed It in the Life of Gregory, contained in the second edition of hUi Dlctiooary." (Lood., 1815, vol. i., p. 601, 602.) inting out icribed to nticipated Gregory, Professor > early as enty-four Prom the eir paral- his prob- c produc- e passage the Par- B demon- to be de- B not the s due the its, of di- I astrono- Bd from a the sub- lelena for ki hemi- ^ercury, to his n which it inter- ertained ury over for, as )etween the sun, itrinsque lulcherri- iierii. vel arallaxi* in, Abre* to this now so iisologia )bsenref, properif in of hip PREVIOUS TO HIS FIRST VOYAGE. 209 though exceedingly slender, affected the sight ; and, in the twinkling of an eye, both the indenture made on the sun's limb by Mercury entering into it vanished, and that made by going off appeared." He instantly perceived that, by such observations, the sun's parallax might be duly determined, provided Mercury were nearer to the earth, and had a greater parallax when seen from the sun. But this planet, though it frequently traverses the solar disk, was, he saw, not very suit- able for the purpose ; because the difference between its par- allax and that of the sun is always less than the latter, which is the object of the inquiry. There remained, however, the transit of Venus — a much rarer phenomenon, indeed, but peculiarly aopropriate ; because the parallax of that planet, being almosc four times as great as that of the sun, occasions very sensible differences between the times in which she seems to be passing over the solar disk at different parts of the earth. From due observations of these, he inferred that the sun's parallax might be determined with extreme accu- racy, and without any other instruments than good clocks and telescopes ; while, on the part of the observers, there were only required diligence, fidelity, and a moderate skill in as- tronomy. The parallax of Venus behig once ascertained, that of the sun and thence the earth's distance from the sun may be found. And by Kepler's third law (that the squares of the periodical times arc proportional to the cubes of their mean distances,) the distances of all the other planets from the sun may be determined ; so that, from the qbservation of this one phenomenon, the transit of Venus, can be calculated the diameter of the planetary orbits, and the extent of the whole solar system. Haliey briefly stated the result of his reflections in his " Catalogus Stellarum Australium," pubhshed in 1679. He developed them more clearly in an essay, read to the Royal Society in 1691 ;* and in 1716 he again most eaniestly recom- mended the subject to the attention of that body, and of men of science in general. From his advanced age, he could en- tertain no hopes of living to observe the next transit in 1761. He therefore solemnly addressed himself to future astrono- mers, most impressively exhorting them, "moniti hujus nostri memores," to devote all their energies and to use every endeav- * " De visibili conjunctione Inreriorum Pianetaruin cum Sole."— Phil- owmtaicd Transactions, No. oxcUi., voL xviL, p. 511-083. S2 »10 LIFE OF COOK 11 h i f. - t r ■i . our to obtain accurate observations of so unusual an occur- rence. With great fervour he deprecated such a state of the atmosphere as might obstruct their view, and offered up the most ardent wishes for their complete and triumphant suc- cess—" Utque tandem," he concludes, ** orbium celestium magnitudines intra arctiores limites coercitas in corum glo- riam famamque sempitemam cedant."* Halley died in 1742 ; but his affecting appeal to posterity was not made in vain. About a twelvemonth before the long- expected event, the celebrated Boscovich addressed a com- munication to the Royal Society, warmly urging attention to the phenomenon ; and from the very next paper in the memoirs of that body, read on the 26th of June, 1760, we learn that they had ^* come to a resolution to send persons of ability to proper places, in order to observe the approaching passage of Venus over the sun, the 6th of June next year."t ^ Under their auspices, accordingly, and favoured by royal mu- nificence, the Hev. Nevil Maskelyne, accompanied by Mr. Waddington, repaired to St. Helena, while Messrs. Mason and Dixon were despatched to Bencoolen, in the Island of Suma- tra. Numerous preparations were likewise made at home, and methods devised for securing ample communications from observers abroad. The whole scientific world, indeed, as may be seen from the subjoined note, was alive to an occurrence which had been termed '* spectaculum inter Astronomica lonee nobilissimum," and individuals of the highest rank par- took of the prevailing enthusiasm.^ * '• Methndus singularls qu& Solis Paral'axis sive distantia a Terra ope Veneris intra Sol 'in comtiiicieiidte, luio determinari poterit."— Piiil. Trans., No. cccxiviii., vol. xxix., p. 454-464. James Ferguson's " Pla'n Method of finding the Uiatances uf all the Planets (torn thi; Sun hy the Transit of V< nUH," and Benjamin Martin's " Venua in the Sun," both published in 1701, were little more ilian loose translations of U \n tract, with some notes and tdditions, partly popular and (larily scientific. t Phil. Trans., vol li., p. 8S9. X In Kritain, the observHiions at Saville House, by Mr. Short snd Drs. Blair and iievig, were made in pr< sence or their royal highnesses the Duke of York (broti er to Ueorg- ill ) Princes William Henry and Fred- erick, and Princess A ugusta ; Lord Maccleafleld's Obaervaiory at Sliirtiurn Castle was supplied by Messrs. UornMby, Phelps, and Baril* tl ; Mr. Bliss attended the Royal Observatory at Greenwich ; Mr. ( anton observed at Spiltal Square; ElUcott nnd Uollondat Hackney ; Mr. Dunn at Olielitea ; and Mr. H 'vdun at L.^keard, in Cornwall. In other parts of* Eiikopb there were D<' Lalande, Maraldi, and De Li«le, at the Royal Observatory Id the Palace or Luxembourg and at the Hotel de Clugny ; De la Caille, JLs Mojuiier, and Feruer, at ConAana, dec. ; Zanotti at Bdogoa ; Mayer P c n / a n 8 t I ] I C PREVIOUS TO HIS FIRST tOYAGE. 211 an occur- (ate of the ed up th« )hant 8UC- celestium orum glo- posterity the long- id a coin- attention •er in the 1760, we tersons of proaching ttyear."t" royal mu- i by Mr. [ason and of Suma- at home, ons from as may currence onomica ank par- a Terra 8 " Plan in ity the in/' both t is tract, iflc. These extensive arrangements were unfortunately in many cases baffled by untoward circumstances. Some observers foiled to reach their appointed stations ; a few were not in good health, and had to intrust the duty to subordinate assist- ants ; in other instances, the instruments were disordered, or not ready in time ; and, on the whole, the position of the planet and the state of the atmosphere proved generally inaus- picious to nice examination. But, though the discrepances in the results were considerable, the possibility of success on the next opportunity, on the 3d of June, 1769, was as confi- dently expected as ever. Nearly two years previous to that period, the Royal Society resolved to send out observers to some part of the South Sea, between the longitudes of 140*^ and 180° west of Greenwich. They were, however, in no condition to defray the expense of such an undertaking ; and it was found necessary, in Febru- ary, 1768, to present a memorial to his majesty, setting forth the great advantages to be derived from it, and requestmg the royal aid. This petition was at once granted, and on the 3d of April Mr. (afterward Sir Philip) Stephens, the secretary of the Admiralty, informed the society that a bark would be provided for the purpose. It was intended to intrust the -charge of the expedition to an eminent geographer, whose name has been often mentioned in the preceding pages- Alexander Dabymple, brother to that distinguished antiquary and scholar, Lord rlailes. Aware of the difficulty, in such a navigation, of securing the obedience of a crow who were not subjected to strict naval discipline, it was proposed that this gentleman should receive a brevet-commission to command the vessel ; and it was stated as a precedent, that William III. had, in 1698, appointed Halley to be captain of the Paramour Pink, on a voyage of discovery to the South Atlantic. This at Schwezinga, near Haidelberg ; Lulofh at Leyden ; Eximenus at Ma< drid ; Mullet and Bergmann at UpMl ; Glister at Ilernosand ; Planinaa at Ctuaneburg ; Warsentin and Klingenstierna at Stockholm ; Juaian- der at Abo, in Finland ; Hellant at Tornea. In Asia, Chapiie observed at Tobolsk in Siberia ; Porter, the English ambassador, at Constantino- ple ; Hirst, chaplain of one or his majesty's shi|ts, at Madras ; Masfee at Calcutta; Dollierat Peki' g. In Africa maybe enumerated, MHson and Dixon at the Cnpe ofGtiod Hope, as they were prevented (Vom reach- ing Bencnoleii ; Maakelyne at St. Helena. In Amilkica, it was observed by Winthrop at 8t. John's, Newfoundland, and by others at Kingston and Port Koyal, in Jamaica; while Piogr6 was stationed at the Island ot Rodiiguesb in tiie Indian Ooeao. • I \ :1 i. I f V 212 LIFE OF COOK was an unfortunate example to adduce ; for the officers and crews of the learned astronomer had slighted his authority, refused to obey his directions, and at last became so insolent and insubordinate, that, without having effected almost any thing, to use his own words, he " found it absolutely necessary'* to return to England, and to incur the cost of a second expe- dition. These circumstances could not fail to be remembered by the lords of the Admiralty ; and, when the representation of the society was laid before them, Sir Edward, afterward Lord Hawke, then at the head of the board, declared, " that his conscience would not allow him to trust any ship of his majesty to a person who had not regularly been bred a seaman." On the matter being again urged, he replied that he would rather have his right hand cut oif than that it should sign any such commission ; and Mr. Dalrymple, on the other part, was found equally determined not to proceed without it. In this dilemma, Mr. Stephens suggested that another indi- vidual should be employed. With a discrimination which does him the highest honour, he had early appreciated the talents of Cook, who was now proposed by him as a person fully qualified for the undertaking, and one who had also been regularly educated in the navy. He appealed for a confirma- tion of his views to Sir Hugh Palliser, and that gentleman most warmly seconded the recommendation, which, fortunately for science, proved successful. Cook, then in his fortieth year, was appointed to conduct the expedition, and was pro- moted to the rank of lieutenant by a commission dated the 26th of May, 1768. The Admiralty having intrusted Sir Hugh with the selection of a suitable vessel, he called its future commander to his as- sistance, and proceeded to examine a great number of ships in the Thames. Even in this first step in the enterpise, its conductor displayed the discernment and sagacity for which he was afterward so remarkable. At that time there was much discussion regarding the size and kind of vessels most proper for such a voyage ; some recommending East India- men, or heavy barks of forty guns ; while others preferred large, good-sailing frigates, or three-decked ships, such as were then employed in the Jamaica trade. With that confi- dence in his own judgment which is the result of a strong and sound-thinking mind. Cook dissented from the views of both parties, and chose a bark built for the coal-trade, of the t e: c P a li C P V d a t ii 1 ( PREVIOUS TO HIS FIRST VOYAGE. 213 Beers and authority, insolent Imost any ecessary'* Dnd expe- nembered jsentation afterward ed, " that lip of his seaman." he would 1 sign any part, was ther indi- 3n which iated the a person also been :onfirma- entleman rtunately fortieth was pro- ated the selection his as- of ships pise, its which ere was s most India- referred uch as confi- strong ■ews of of the ;ls t burden of 370 tons. He at once saw that the qualities most essential were, that the ship should be of no great draught of water, yet of sufficient capacity to carry the requisite stores ; of a construction that would bear to take the ground ; and of such a size that she might, if necessary, be laid on shore for repair with safety and convenience. These properties, he re- marks, are not to be found in either of the two classes pro- posed, " nor, indeed, in any other but north-country-built ships, or such as are built for the coal-trade, which are peculiarly adapted to this purpose. In such a vessel, an able sea-officer will be most venturesome, and better enabled to fulfil his in- structions than he possibly can (or indeed than would be pru- dent for him to attempt) in one of any other sort or size."* He probably was not aware that his opinions on this subject coincided with those of the illustrious discoverer of the New World. Of the three ships that first crossed the Atlantic, one only was full decked, the others were caravels or light baxkS| little superior to the small coasting-craft of the present day. •** It was not," says Mr. Irving, " for want of large vessels in the Spanish ports that those of Columbus were of so small a size. He considered them best adapted to voyages of discov- ery, as they required but little depth of water, and therefore could more easily and safely coast unknown shores and ex- plore bays and rivers. He had some purposely constructed of a very small size for this service. "t Before the Endeavour could be completely fitted out, Wal- lis returned from his circumnavigation, and recommended Otaheite as the most eligible situation for observing the ap- proaching transit. It had been proposed to make the obser- vations at one of the Marquesas, or at the Island of Amster- dam, Middleburg, or Rotterdam ; but this intention was now abandoned, and the Royal Society expressed to the Admiralty their wish to have the astronomers conveyed to Port Royal, in the newly-found island. The observers whom they se- lected were Mr. Green, assistant to Dr. Bradley in the Royal Observatory at Greenwich, and Lieutenant Cook. During these preparations, permission to join the expedition was solicited by Mr. (afterward Sir Joseph) Banks, the woll- * General Tntrod. to Second Voyage, p. xxv. t Lire of Columbus, vol. iv., p 234. In his third voyage, when nailing along the shores or the Gulf or Paria, he conniilained of the size of bia •bip, wbicb was " nearly a buadrad tons burdeo."— Vol. i,, p. 181, t ! I I t \ 214 LIFE OF COOK, ETC. ; t' known president of the Royal Society during a period of nearly fifty years.* The wish which he had expressed was at once acceded to, and he immediately made arrangements on the most extensive scale. He procured a large supply of such articles as were likely to be useful or acceptable in the coun- tries he was to visit. He engaged to accompany him a Swe- dish naturalist, Dr. Solander, the favourite pupil of Linnaeus ;t and besides a secretary and four servants, two of whom were negroes, he took out two draughtsmen, the one in the depart- ment of landscape, the other in natural history. The Endeavour was victualled for eighteen inonths, and had on board ten carriage and twelve swivel guns. Her crew, besides the commander and other officers, consisted of forty- one able seamen, twelve marines, and nine servants — in all eighty-five persons. The instructions given to Cook were, to proceed directly to Otaheite, and, after the astronomical observations should be completed, to prosecute the general design for discovery in the Pacific, in which Byron, Wallis, and Carteret had been employed. He was ordered to sail as far south as the latitude of 40° ; if no land was found, he was then to steer to the west, between the fortieth and thirty- fifth parallels, till he encountered New Zealand, and having explored that country, he was to return to England by such route ap he might think proper. * Sir Joseph Banks was born at London, 13th February, 1743. He quilted Oxrord in 1763, and three' years thereafter made a voyage to Newfoundland. In 1778 he was elected president of the Royal Society ; he was created a baronet in 1781, received the order of the Bath in 1795» and in 1802 was elected a foreign Associate of the National Institute of France. He died 19th May, 1820. t Solander at this time held an appointment in the British Museum. Some interesting notices of him are given in the Edinburgh Cabinet Library, No. XVI., Lives of Eminent Zoologists, flrom Aristotle to Lin- lUBiis iaclusive, p. 343-3481 <^' -n. IV, FIRST CIRCtrMNAVIOATION OF COOK. 215 CHAPTER IX. First Circumnavigation of Cook. Departare.— -Adventure on Tierra del Fuego.— Discovery of Lagoon, Thrum Cap, Bow, The Groups, and Chain Islands.— Arrival at Ota- heite.— Observation of the Transit and Incidents during their Stay.^ Discovery of the Islands orTethuroa, Huaheine, Uiiaiea, Otaha, Tubal, Bolaboia, Maurua, >^lld Oheteroa.— Maices the East Coast of Mew Zea- land.— Affrays with the Natives.— Doubles the North Cape.— Discovers Cooli's Straits, and Circumnavigates the Islands.— Sails for the ESast Coast of New Holland.— Discovery of New South Wales.— Boiauy Bay.— Intercourse with theNatives.— Port Jackson.— Dangerous Posl' tion of the Ship.— Reaches the moat northerly Point of Australia.— Rediscovery of Torres' Strait.— New Guinea. — Timor. — Batavia.— Mortality among the Crew.— Arrival in England. On the 27th May, 1768, Lieutenant Cook hoisted his pend* ant on board, the Endeavour, then lying in Deptford Yard, and on the 30th of July bore down the river and proceeded to Plymouth, whence he finally set sail on the 26th of August. While at Madeira, which they reached on the 13th Septeni' ber, the navigators visited the convent of Santa Clara ; and the simple nuns, hearing that some of the strangers were great philosophers, asked, among other questions, *' When it would thunder!" and " Whether a spring of fresh water was to be found anywhere within the walls of the cloister V* The voy- agers passed the Island of Teneriffe on the 23d, and observed, after the sun had sunk below the horizon, that the lofty peak Btill received hii» rays, and, while the rest of the island re- posed in the darkest shades, glowed with a warmth of coloiu which no language could describe. As they pursued their course to Brazil, they had an opportunity of observing that luminous appearance of the sea which has so often excited the admiration of mariners. They anchored at Rio de Janeiro on the 13th November, but the jealousy of the Portuguese gov- ernor would only allow refreshments to be procured under the most rigorous restriction's ; and his ignorance was such, that K^ he could form no other notion of the purpose of the voyage • ^ than that it was to observe " the passing of the North Star through the South Pole !'' On quitting this port, Cook kept a look-out for Pepys* 216 FIRST CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF COOK. it ' ^ J--' ■ (4. ii Island ; but nothing was perceived but a fog-bank, which at a distance closely resembled land. On the 1 1th January, 1769, he was in Night of Tierra del Fuego, and three days afterward entered Strait Le Mai re. The morning of the 16th was fair and mild, much like one of our bright days in May, and Mr. Banks landed with a party to explore the country. They commenced the ascent of a mountain, the lower region of which was covered with wood ; this was succeeded by what scorned a plain, while the top con- sisted of bare rocks. About three o'clock they reached the second stage of the hill, which they discovered to be a swamp, overgrown with low bushes of birch, so interwoven and stiff that it was necessary to step over them, while at every exertion the foot sunk ankle-deep in the soil. The day now became cold and gloomy, and the wind swept down in sudden gusts, accompanied with snow. They still pressed on in good spirits, and had crossed about two thirds of the wooded morass, when Mr. Buchan, the landscape-painterf was seized with a fit of epi- lepsy. A fire having been kindlbd, he was left in charge of those who were most fatigued, while Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander,- and Messrs. Green and Monkhouae, continued their ascents By the time they reached the summit, the day was so far spent that it was hopeless to think of regaining the ship befcHre night ;: it was resolved, therefore, to build a hut in a wood at some distance, and the gentlemen last named were despatched to* conduct those who had remained below to a spot from whieb all might advance together. It was nearly eight o'clock be- fore the whole party were assembled at this lendezvous, chilled with the intense cold, but cheerful and in health — as Mr^ Buchan had sufiVcientiy recovered to attempt the remainder of the journey. There was still good daylight, and they set forward to reach ^the nearest valley — Mr. Banks walking last^ to prevent any one from lingering behind. Dr. Solander, in crossing the mountains of his native land, had learned that fatigue and extreme cold frequently produce an irresistible de- sire for sleep, against which he now cautioned his companions^ earnestly exhorting them to keep in motion, however painful the effort might be : " Whoever sits down," he warned them^ " will sleep, and whoever sleeps will wake no more !" The doctor was himself the first that was affected with this incli' nation for repose ; and so powerful was it, that he insisted an being suffered to lie down, and, in spite of every expostulation wl th< th( when ley set g last^ er, in that e de- nions^ ainful them. The incli- edon lation FIRST CIRCVMNAVIOATION OF COOK. 217 and entreaty, stretched himself on the snow. Richmond, on« of the black servants, had felt the same effects and besan to lag behind, when five of the party was sent forward to nght a fire at the first convenient place. Mr. Banks, and four others who remained with him, succeeded in dragging Solander and the negro almost to the edge of the wood, wnen both declared they could go no farther. Prayers and Femonstrances were equally unavailing ; the black, when told that if he did not proceed ho would be frozen to death, answered, that *' he desired nothing but to lie down and die ;" while the naturalist expressed himself willing to go on, ** but that he must first take some sleep." It being impossible to carry them, they were allowed to recline themselves, partly supported by the bushes, and in a few miqutes both were in a profound sleepr Soon afterward the welcome intelligence was received that a flame had been kindled about a quarter of a mile in advance, Solander was then wakened ; but though he had not slum' bered quite five minutes, he was hardly able to move his limbs, and the muscles of ftis feet were so shrunk that his shoes fell off; it was found impossible to make the negro stir, and he was left in charge of the other black and one of the seamen. With much difficulty Mr. Banks got the doctor to the fire, when he despatched two persons for Richmond, but they re- turned without having been able to find him. The snow again came on, and fell incessantly for two hours. About midnight, those at the fire heard a distant shouting, and having pro- ceeded a little way, found the seaman calling for help, and barely able to totter on. Farther off, Richmond was discov- ered standing, but unable to move, and his companion lay on the ground totally insensible. The united efforts of the whole party failed to bring them to the fire ; the night was extremely dark, the snow very deep, and it was with difficulty that they made their way through the bog — ^fiouiMlering and stumbling among the bushes. An attempt to kindle a flame at the spot was equally unsuccessful, owing to the heavy fall of snow and the quantities of it which every blast shook from the trees. There was no alternative but to cover the unhappy Africans with boughs, and resign them to their lot.* The cold to * In a narrative of the voyage, compiled tntm the papers or one or the draughtsmen entployed by Mr. Banlts, it is said that the eeamanr ** touched with Hympathy for his companions, told the company of the condition in which he left ihemf and they were disposed to have yMded T ' i^^ji SI 8 FIRST CIRCUMNAVIGATION OP COOK. which the party had been exposed in these endeavours nearly deprived some of them of sensation, and one suffered so se- verely that it was thought he would not live to reach the fire. The night was passed in great misery ; and when the morn- ing dawned, the snow-blasts were so strong that it was found impossible to proceed. At six o'clock they were able to per- ceive the place of the sun in the heavens ; but, although the clouds became thinner and began to break away, the snow still fell so thick that they could not venture to quit their fire. A party sent out to ascertain the fate of the blacks found them both dead ; a dog which belonged to one of them was sitting close to the corpse of his master, and it was with difficulty that he was prevailed on to forsake it. At eight, a breeze sprung up, the sky became at length clear, and the snow, droppmg from the branches in large flakes, was considered a sure sign of an approaching thaw. They began to prepare for their departure, and made a meal on a vulture, which af- forded each person about three mouthfuls. At ten they set out ; and, after walking three hours, found themselves on the beach, at no great distance from the vessel, where their ab- sence during the night had occasioned much anxiety.* them assistance, but, it being almost dark, there ^as not any probability of finding ihem, and the attempt would have been attended with the risic ortheir own lives ; they there/ore declined zf.**— Journal ofaVoyage to the 8outb Seas, Taithfully transcribed from the Papers of the late Syd- ney Parkintton (London, 1773), p. )0. It will be seen that this statement is directly contradicted by that given in the text, on the authority of Sir Joseph Banks and Captain Cook, which is in every way preferable. Mr. Parkinson was not of the party, and could only learn the details by hearsay in the ship ; his papers were never prepared by him for publica- tion ; and the so-called jounial was given to the world after his death, not from the original, but from various loose memoranda and flragment& In such a work it is evident little faith can be placed. * Hawkesworth's Coll., vol. ii., p. 46-53. Sydney Parkinson's Joar, p. 9, 10. " It is ''quite inexplicable to me," says a late author, ** how Dr. Solander and his party could possibly feel the etfects of crid as they did. We are told that he was seized with a torpor, and that two black servants were actually flrozen to death, asleep; and yet, here plants flourished ! — they returned to the vessel with some hundred new speei- mens ! One would suppose that it wou'd be needless to search (br plants in a climate so rigorous in its effects."— Voyage to the Southern Atlantic, in the years 1828'»-30, in H. M. sloop Chanticleer, by W. H. B. W^ h- ster, surgeon (London, 1834), vol. i., p. 200. The plants which were gathered were " Alpine plants,'^ and Mr. Webster's amazement at their ** flourishing in a climate so rigorous in its effects," is scarcely mora misplaced than his astonishment that two negroes should jierisb from exposure on a hillside during a whole night to a severe snow storm, ac companiad by a hard flrost and a piercing wind. i ■.^ K. ITS nearly ed 80 se- 1 the fire. ;he mom- mas found le to per- lough the the snow their fire, and them as sitting difficulty a breeze he snow, isidered a ) prepare ^hich af- 1 they set cs on the their ab- probability 1 with the fa Voyage e late Syd- Btatement rity of Sir able. Mr. details by >r pub]ica-> hie death, Iragments. on's Jour., or, " how id as they two black re plants lew speei- fbr plants 1 Atlantic , B. W' h- lich were nt at their cely more rish from Btorm, ac FIRST CIRCUMNAVIOATION OF COOK. 219 On the 22d Cook resumed his y^age through the strait, And on the fourth day after passed Cape Horn. On the 1st of March he was in latitude 38° 44' S., and longitude 110° 33' W. A log of wood floated past the sliip^ the sea be« came suddenly smooth, and it was the general opinion that land lay to windward ; but none was discovered till the 4th of April, when an island was seen three or four leagues towards the south. It was little more than a border of land, broken in several places, and enclosing a large lagoon, the whole having the appearance of many islets covered with wood ; above which towered two cocoanut-trees bearing a great resemblance to flags. Habitations were descried under the shade of some palms, and to the voyagers, " who for a long time had seen nothing but water and sky, except the dreary hills of Tierra del Fuego, these groves seemed a ter- restrial paradise." Several natives were perceived on the shore, and appeared to be tall, of a copper colour, and with long black hair ; some of them held in their hands poles up- wards of fourteen feet in length. To this spot was given the name of Lagoon Island ;* and Cook was afterward of opinion that it was the same which Bougainville had visited the pre- ceding year, and called Les Quatre Facardins.f About sunset the Endeavour was close to a low woody island, of a circular form, and not much above a mile in com- pass. It was covered with verdure of many hues ; but no inhabitants were seen, nor could any cocoa-trees be discerned. It received the appellation of Thrum Cap ; and though Cook be- lieved it to be the He des Lanciers of his French predecessor, we have more reason to regard it as a discovery of his own. j: With a gentle whid and pleasant weather, he pursued his course to the westward, and on the afternoon of the next day approached a land of much larger extent than that previously visited. Several of the gentlemen remained at the mast- head the whole evening, admiring its singular shape, which vas that of a bow, " the arch and cord of which were land, and the space between them water ; the cord was a flat beach, * Cook placed it in latitude I6<'47' S„ and longitude 139° 28' W, Beechey gives for its position lar. 18° 43' 19" S., and long. 138° 47' 13" W. The captain attests the accuracy of the description left by its dis- coverer, and adds, *' Two cocoanut-trees in the centre of the island, which Cook observes had the appearance of flags, are still waving.*'— • Voyage to the Pacific, vol. i., p. 808, t See above, p. 183, i See above, p, 183. 220 FIRST CIRCUMNAYIOATION OF COOK. without any «ignfl of veffetation, having nothing upon it bnt heaps of aeaweed ; the horns or extremities of the bow w«re two large tufts of cocoanut-trees, and much the ^eater part of the arch was covered with trees of different height, figure, and hue."* It was designated Bow Island, and is evidently the same with Bougainville's He de la Harpe, called by the natives He-ow ; the circumference was estimated at ten or tr.elve leagues ; while smoke ascending from different parts showed that it was inhabited. About noon of the 6th land was again seen to the west- ward, and proved to be two islands, or rather clusters, covered with trees of various kinds. Many natives and canoes were observed, and the place received the name of The Groups. At daybreak of the 7th another was descried and called Bird Island, from the number of fowls which frequented its shores. It was thought to be not less than four miles round, had a lagoon in the centre, was partially wooded, and " looked green and pleasant, but we saw neither cocoa-trees nor inhabitants." About sunset of the succeeding day the Endeavour was abreast of a double range of low and wooded islets, connected by reefs so as to form one island of an oval form, with a lake in the middle. From the appearance of the border, it re- ceived the appellation of Chain Island ; its length seemed to be about five leagues, its breadth nearly as many miles ; some of the trees were of a large size, and columns of smoke were seen to rise from sundry places. The night of the 9th was stormy, with thunder and rain, and a haze enveloped the voyagers till the next morning was far advanced, when the weather having cleared up, they dis- covered Osnaburg or Maitea Island. About noon the high mountains of Otaheite were faintly discerned ; but calms and light winds so'^lon^ delayed the approach of the vessel, that she did not anchor in Matavai Bay (the Port Royal of its dis- coverer) before the morning of the 13th. The islanders in their canoes immediately surrounded the ship, exchanging fruits and fish for beads and other trifles. A set of rules to be observed in conducting a regular trade, and for the maintenance of a good understanding with the inhabi- tants, was now communicated to the crew by Cook, who after- ward went on shore with Messrs. Banks and Solander, and a |>arty of men under aims. They were received by the assem- * Hawkesworth's Coll.. vol. U., p. 79. - FIRST CIRCVMNAVIOATION OF COOK. 221 bled hundreds with the greatest humility,— the first who ap- Eroached crouching till he almost crept upon his hands and nees, while he presented a green branch — an emblem of peace borne by each of his countrymen — which was accepted with marks of satisfaction. A short march brought the Eng- lish to the spot where the Dolphin had formerly watered. The natives halted here, cleared away the plants, threw down their boughs, and made a signal that the strangers should follow their example. This ceremony, it was conjectured, not only implied a treaty of friendship, but was preparatory to the ces- sion of the watering-place. Cook, however, did not think it suitable for his purpose ; and the people whom he had as yet seen not being of the highest class, he resolved, after peram- bulating the adjoining country, to endeavour the next day to meet with some of the chiefs. Two of these anticipated his wishes by paying a visit early in the morning, and inviting him to their residences, where he was received with much cour- tesy. In a short time, however, two of the English had the mortification to find that their pockets had been picked of a snuff-box and an opera-glass in a shagreen case. The an- nouncement of this depredation produced a panic among tho natives, and the chief offered a large quantity of cloth as a compensation ; but on this being remsed he set off, and even- tually succeeded in recovering the lost articles. A theft much more distressing in its consequences was committed on the 15th, at the tent pitched on the site of the fortress which it was designed to erect, partly for defence and partly for astronomical purposes. One of the savages, watch- ing an opportunity, snatched and carried off a sentinel's mus- ket ; upon which (in the absence of Cook) the officer on duty, a young midshipman, ordered the marines to fire, but fortU" nately without effect, among a crowd of the natives, amount- ing to more than 100. The culprit was then pursued and shot dead. Having reprehended the conduct of the officer as equally barbarous and impolitic, the commander took meas- ures for the restoration of harmony, and in a short time peace was re-established and traffic resumed. Hitherto, the tender-hearted princess, who made so distin- guished a figure in the account of Wallis*s voyage, had not been seen. She was at last recognised, apparently denuded of all authority, sitting with great composure among a number of women, and, although she had now lost many of her per- T2 ■^: \^ 222 FIRST CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF COOK. •onal attractions, she became an object of great attention. Her name was ascertained to be Oberca, and the was the mother of the heir-apparent to the sovereignty, Terridiri, a boy about seven voars of ago. Among the presents made to her was a child s doll, which threw her into raptures, and proved such a source of envy to Toolahali, the uncle of the prince, and regent of the kingdom, that it became necessary to propitiate him by a similar compliment. On the 1st of May the observatory was set up, and the as- tronomical instruments taken on shore. To the great surprise and anxiety of every one, the next morning the quadrant was nowhere to bo found. It was at first susncctcd that some of the ship's company, ignorant of the real contents, had ab- stracted the box in which it was packed ; but nothing occur- ring to corroborate this opinion, a search among the natives was undertaken by Mr. Banks, with the assistance of a chief, Tubourai Tamaide, who had some knowledge of the route taken by the culprit. They fortunately succeeded in recover- ing the instrument so essential to the main object of the voy- age ; but, in the absence of Cook, Tootahah had been seized, to the ffreat terror of the islanders, who never doub.'pd that he would DO put to death as a punishment for the t!ieft. He himself had the same persuasion till the very moment when ho was set at liberty — an event which gave boundless joy to the people, who flocked round and embraced him as a father. On the 10th the voyagers discovered the native designation of the island to be Otaheito ; and were, at the same time, much amused by the attempts of the inhabitants to pronounce the names of their visiters : Cook became Toote ; Solandcr was changed into Torano ; Banks assumed the form of Tapane or Opane; "Molineux they renounced in absolute despair, and called the master Boba, from his Christian name Robert."* As the day of the predicted transit drew near, it was re- solved to send two parties to observe at distant situations, in order to lessen the chance of failure from a clouded atmo- sphere ; and on the 1st June Mr. Banks, with a few attendants, proceeded to the Island of Eimeo, about twelve miles west from Otaheite ; while, on the morrow, Mr. Hicks, with some others, sailed in the pinnace to fix on some spot to the east- ward of Matavai Bay. ,; * Hawkaaworth'a Coll., vol. ii., p. ISS. ParkinaonVi Journal, p. (». FIRST CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF COOK. 223 At Eimeo, the evening preceding the important phenome- non wai beautiful ; but tno Rolicitude of the party aid not al- low them to take much roit during the night ; " one or other of them was up every half hour, who aatiified the impatience of the rent by reportmg the changes of the iky ; now encour- aging their hope by telling them that it was clear, and now alarming their tears by an account that it was hazy." They were on foot by daybreak, and saw the sun rise from the sea without a clouu. Equal success attended the persons sent to the east end of the island ; while ** at the fort," says Cook, " there not being a vapour in the sky from .the risins to the setting of the sun, the whole passage of Venus over the sun*a disk was observed with neat advantage by Mr. Green, Dr. Solandcr, and myself." An atmosphere or dusky haze, which surrounded the body of the planet, rendered it difficult to fix the precise times of contact, and the observations made by dif- ferent persons varied considerably. According to Mr. Green, The flirst external contact, or first appearance of Venus on the Sun, wan ...... The first Internal contact or total tmmerslon was The second tniernal contact, or beginning of the emersion, was ...... The second external contact, or total emersion, . h. 9 S 3 35 43 > J 44 4)^ ij 14 39 .?! The latitude of the observatory was ascertained to be 17° 29' 16" S., and the longitude 149<> 82' 30" W. of Greenwich.* * Hawkesworth's Coll., vol. 11., p. 141. Part of the original mann- script or Cook's observations has been preserved. The result Is thus given in the Philosophical Transactions, vol. 1x1., pan 11., p. 410 ;— Timap.«loek. h. 31 50 39 30 40 SO T 10 15 10 47 97 98 34 04 1.6ft. ( The first visible appearanee of 9 m the 0's limb, f figure 1. < First Internal contact, or tfaa limb of 9 seemed to ooin- \ cide with the Q's, figure 9. I A small thread or light seen below the penambra, fig- I ureS. I Second internal contact of the penumbra, or the thread of I light wholly broke. 1 Second internal contact of the bodies, and appeared as in \ the first Second external contact of the bodies. ;. Total egress of penumbra dubious. The part of the MS. missing seems to have contained the tlmea of the 284 FIRRT CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF COOK. In other parts of thci world the approach of thr phenomenon WM watched with cnual anxiety. A trannitMit ohocurity in the heaytna and a gentle shower were nioro aptMiUing on that forenoon than a hnrricanu on another day. In nonie plocos philoRophera had to deplore an eveninff hiack with thunder- clouds and heavy rain ; while in others the storm was over and the sky clear hefore the hour for ohservation arrived.* At Edinburf^h, Lord AUimoor, one of the SenatorN of the Oollego of J\istioe, connidrrod himself to be pcrnliarly favoured. *' The morninj?," says one of his iMirty, " promised ill. About noon the day was terrible, with tnick clouds, and like settled rain. Yo\t may imagine how we felt ! About two o'clock the wind bcfi^nn to change from the south to the westward ; Rlmut three it was west, and the clouds breaking. There was about fotir a very hard thunder-shower, and calm ; after which the wind began to blow briskly from the northwest ; the clouds blown away, and those near the horizon depressed and held down ; the sun shone clearer than I ever saw it, and not a cloud waH to be seen in that (luartor. It remained so till after lK>th contacts, when, not half a minute afterward, small flying clouds passed over the sun !"t The interest with which the unlearned watched the event appears to have been almost equal to that of the individuals who more fully understood its second oontaets, and the first draught of some general observationa printed in the Fhit. Trans., as cited above. * In the lapse of eiaht years several changes had occurred, and the list of those who observed this plienomenon is considerably diflbrent Ihmi the catalogue given in a fbrmer page (310). Lord Macclesfleld, Messrs. Hornsby and Bartlett, obaertred at Shirhum Castle ; Messrs. Horslny, Cyril Jackson, Lucas, Sykes, and Shuckburgh, at Oxford ; I>r. Bevis at Kew; Canton at Spittal Square ; Harris, of the Mathematical School in Christ's Hospital, at Windsor Castle ; Ludlani at Leicester ; Francis Wollaston at East •Dereham, In Norfblk ; Prs. Wilson, Irvine, and Reid, at Glasgow ; Lord Alemoor sndDr. Lind at Hawkhill, near Edinburgh ; Rev. Mr. Bryoe at Klrknewton ; Mason atCavan, in Ireland ; Messier, Du Sejour, Cassini, De Fouchv, Bailly. De Rory, Maraldi, Le Monnier, Fou- Eiiere, (he Duke de Chaulnes, and others, in various parts or France ; ieutenant Jardine at Gibraltar : Ferner at Stockholm ; Father Hell at Wardhuus; Mallet at Ponoi, in Lapland ; Rumonsky at Kola ; Bnyleyat the North Cape ; Wales and Dymond at Prince of Wales' Fort, Hudson's Bay ; Wright near Quebec ; Leeds in the Province of Maryland ; Smith, Ritterhouse, and others, at Norrlton, Pennsylvsnia ; Piiigri at Caps Francis, St. Domingo ; Chappe in Callfbmia ; Mohr at Batavia ; Degloos at Dinapoor, and Rose at Phesabad, in the East Indies; Dr. Soltnder. Mr, Green, and Captain Cook, at Otaheite. t nUI. TnuM., vd. lix., p. 840. '■m bu- er. FiaiT CIRCf7MNAVIOATfON OP COOK. 225 importance. At CiUsgow, " it wm ftpprohended thit th« ■moko or the town might hurt the observationi ; and, to (ira- vent this as much as posaiblo, an advertisement was put ia the newspaper, bogging the inhabitants, in cases where it would not bo very mconvoniont, to put out their fires from throe o'clock that afternoon till sunsetting.** This request was choorfuliy complied with, ** insomuch that there was not a spire of smoke to be perceived in that quarter from which the observations could be incommoded.'** At Philadelphia, Dr. Smith was attended by a great concourse of people, and, afraid that the curiosity natural on such occasions might interrupt the observations, he informed them that success depended on there not beinff the least noise till the contacts wore over. " And," says the doctor, " during the twelve minutes that en- sued before the first contact, there could not have been a more iolomn pause of expectation and silence, if each individual kad stood ready to receive the sentence that was to give him Life or doath."t On the whole, the numerous observations were satbfactory, and the results deduced from them scarcely diflfered more than the quarter of a second in the sun's parallax, which they de- termmed to be 8.6". This agrees with the calculations of La Place, deduced from the lunar equation in longitude; but Professor Bossol having combined and recomputed the origi- nal observations, has recently introduced a small correction, which makes the parallax to be only 8.675", and consequently the moan distance of the sun 96,168,440 English miles ; while, according to the calculations of Encke, the parallax is 8.5776'', and the distance of the sun 95,130,640 miles. During Cook's observations on the transit at Otabeite, some of the crow broke into a storeroom and abstracted a hundred weight of spike-nails — a thoft of a serious nature, as it could not fail greatly to depreciate the value of the coin circulated among the natives. One of the depredators was detected with part of the stolen goods in his possession, and punished with two dozen lashes ; but he refused to impeach his accomplices^ Monday, the 6th of June, was celebrated as the anniversary of his majesty's birth, and several of the chiefs drank to the health of KihiargOf as they pronounced King George. On the 26th, Cook, accompanied by Mr. Banks, set out tp * Phil Trans., vol.Ux., p. j33i. t U»UL, p. 309. !i i i N\ 226 FIRST CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF COOK. eircumnavigate the island, and that day visited the harbour in which Bougainville had lain, where they saw the chief Ereti or Oretti, mentioned by the French navigator, and were in- formed that Aotourou was his brother. At night he reached the isthmus which joins the two peninsulas of Otaheite — ^the lesser of which, it was ascertained, bore the appellation of Ti- arrabou or Otaheite £te, and had a chief designated Wahea^ tua for its ruler ; while the other, called Opoureonu or Ota« heite Nue, was governed by a youth named Ootoo or Outou, the nephew of the regent Tootahah, and Oamo, the hus- band of Oberea. They completed the circuit of the whole on the 1st of July, and estimated its circumference at about thirty leagues. Soon afterward they began to dismantle their fort, on which they had bestowed the name of Venus, and to make prepara- tions for their departure. On this occasion, we discover for the first time an instance of that fascination which this lovely island, its gentle people, and their manner of life, have so often exerted over the rude hearts of uncultivated men. Two of the marines stole from the fort on the night of the 8th of July, and, as was gathered from the natives, nad taken refuge in the mountains, with the intention of remaining in the country, where they had attached themselves to wives. Cook resolved to recover them, but was loath to terminate, by any rigorous measures, the harmony which subsisted be- tween him and the islanders. He was compelled, however, to detain several chiefs, among whom was Tootahah, till the deserters should be brought back. General alarm was the consequence ; and in retaliation two petty officers were seized, along with the arms of two moie ; but quiet was at last re- stored through the intervention of Tootsdiah, who gave effec- tual orders for the delivery of the fugitives. On the 12th, a native of the name of Tupia, a priest who had been first minister to Oberea when in the height of her power, came on board, accompanied by a boy, who was his servant, and requested leave to sail with the voyagers — a wish whicb wcs at once complied with. " To have such a person on board," says the lieutenant, " was certainly desi- rable for many reasons ; by learning his language, and teaching him ours, we should be able to acquire a much better knowl- edge of the customs, policy, and religion of thcpeople, than our short stay among them could give us." Early on the « FIRST CIRCVHNAVIOATION OF COOK. 227 (i flucceeding morning the ship was crowded with chiefs, while the sea atound was thronged with the canoes of the inferior classes. About noon the anchor was weighed, and the ves- sel getting under sail, the natives on board took their leave, " and wept with a decent and silent sorrow, in which there was something very striking and tender ; the people in the canoes, on ^hc contrary, seemed to vie with each other in the loudness of their lamentations, which we considered rather as affectation than grief."^ In this scene Tupia evinced great firmness ; he could not indeed restrain his tears, but he strug^ gled to conceal them, and, having sent his last present on shore, cUmbod to the mast-head, where he continued to make signals, till the winds had wafted him away from the friends he was never again to behold. Cook first directed his course to a small island called Tc thuroa, about eight leagues to the north of Otaheite ; and on the 14th he passed two others, Eimeo and Tabuaemanu, as' signed by Wallis to the honour of the Duke of York and Sir Charles Saunders. The 15th was hazy, with light and changeable winds, and little way was made ; Tupia frequently prayed to his god Tane for a favourable gale ; and as he never began his address till he perceived that a breeze was close at hand, he was enabled to boast of his influence with his deity. At length a gentle wind sprang up, and on the morning of the 16th the voyagers were close to an island named Huaheine, about seven leagues in compass, and with a hilly and uneven surface. Several canoes came off, 'and in one of them was Oree, the sovereign, who, with frequent expressions of astonishment and wonder, ventured on board ; and, as a proof of amity, exchanged names with the chiejf officer, from whom he received several presents, among which was a small plate of pewter, with the inscription, " His Bri- tannic Majesty's Ship Endeavour, Lieutenant Cook, Com- mander, 16th July, 1769. Huaheine." Two or three days were passed at this island, the inhabitants of v^hich, though rather stouter and of larger make, in other respects very closely resembled the Otaheitans. A sail of a few hours brought the navigators to Ulietea or Raiatea, which was observed to be enclosed within the same reef that surrounded Otaha, and several lesser islets. A * nawkesworth^s Coll., vol ti., p. 18f. 228 HRST CIRCXJHNAYIOATION OT COOB« nnall low island seen to the north was by the natives called Tubal, and contained only three families. Sailing a shtMrt distance to the northwestward, on the 29th they were close under the hish and craggy Peak of B^abola or Borabora; but, finding the land inaccessible at that part, they stood off to weather the south end. The next morning they got sight of the snwU Island Maurua, and afterward anchored on the west side oi UUetea, for the purpose of stopping a leak in the powder-room and taking in more ballast. The lieutenant embraced the opportumty of waiting on Opoony, the warlike sovereign of Bolabola, wha had conquered this and some (tf the neighbouring countries. From the reports of his achieve- ments and the ternnr in which he was held, the English exr pected to behold a formidable personage ; but there appeared before them a poor weak creature, infirm, decrepit, and slug- ^sh, half biind from aee, and wholly stupid. To ^e six islandii now visited, Ulietea, Otaha, .Bolabola, Huaheine, Tubai, and Maurua, with their dependant islets. Cook gave the name of Thk Society Islands, by which they are stilt distinguished. They lie between^ 16° 10' and 16° 65' S. latitude, and 160° 67' and 162° W. longitude. Oheteroa, considerably to the south or southwest, was reached on the 13th of August. The natives, splendidly dressed in coloured cloths and feathers, stood on the shore with long lances and clubs, ready to oppose a landing. At- tempts to conciUate them were fruitless; and the commanding^ officer having satisfied himself that no safe anchorage could be found, determined to continue his course to the southward. On the 26th the voyagers celebrated the anniversary of their departure from England, " by taking a Cheshire cheese from a locker, where it had been carefully treasured up for this oc- easion, and tappine a cask of porter, which proved to be very good, and in exedlent order."* On the 29th they saw the remarkable comet of 1769 ; and Tupia, on observing it, ex- claimed that as soon as it should be seen by the people <^ Bolabola, they would make war on those of Ulietea, and drive them to the mountains. The Endeavour was in latitude 40° 22^ S., and longitude 174° 29' W., on the 1st of September, with a heavy sea from the westward, and no signs of land. She then stood northward, and on the 24th a piece of seaweed aiM Ion on * Hawkeswoith*R Coll^ voIJ., p>S8i. FIRST CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF COOK. 229 and a bit of wood were observed in latitude 33° 13' S., and longitude 162° 51' W. A seal was seen asleep in the water on the 27th, and three days after innumerable flocks of birds were met with. On the 5tb, it was thought that there was a change in the colour of the water ; and at last, on the 6th, land was seen from the mast-head ; in the erening it could be descried from ihto deck, and appeared to be of great extent. As the voyagers slowly approached on the succeeding day, its dimensions still increased as it was more distinctly seen. Four or five ranges of hills were discerned rising one above another, while, far inland, a chain of mountains of vast height towered high over .«11. Speculation was busy in conjectures on this great country, and the general opinion on board was, that the Terra Australis Incognita was at length discov- ered. As thoy drew nearer, they could see that the hills were clothed with wood, and that the valleys sheltered some gigan- tic trees ; canoes were perceived crossing a narrow ^y ; houses small but neatly built were descried; beside one of them a crowd of people was sitting on the beach ; and much curiosity was excited by a high and regular paling which ap- peared to enclose the summit o^ a hilL In the evening, Cook, Banks, and Solander went ashore with a party, and endeav- oured to open a friendly communication with the islanders, but were obliged to shoot one of them in self-defence. On examining his dress, it was found to answer the representation given in an account of Tasmania Voyage ; and, indeed, our navigators were now on the New Zealand of that discoverer,* but on the opposite coast to that which he had vinted. On the morning of the next day, the 9th, the lieutenant again rowed to the beach, and found about fifty of the natives waiting his landing. They started from the ground, and brandished long pikes and short stone weapons ; nor did they desist from defiance, although addressed by Tupia in the Ota- heitan tongue, until they saw the effect of a musket in stri- king the water at a distance. As soon as the marines were brought up, the English approached ihe savages, when their interpreter again spoke to them, " and it was with great pleas- ure," says Cook, ** that we perceived he was perfectly under- stood." They expressed their willingness to trade for pro- visions and water, and desired the strangers to cross the nver 1 * See above, p. 107. u 230 FIRST CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF COOK. \«rhich flowed between ; but they would not lav down their arms, and Tupia saw good reason for advising his friends to be prepared for hostility. The islanders being in turn invited over, first one, then two, and, soon after, twenty or thirty, al- most all armed, swam across. They attempted to seize the weapons of the discoverers, and, though assured of death if they persisted, one of them snatched a hanger, with which he ran off, waving it round his head in exultation. The rest now grew more insolent, and others were observed coming from the opposite bank to their assistance. It was judged necessary to take some measures to repress them, and Mr. Banks accord- ingly fired at the thief, who was wounded, but still retreated, though more slowly, flourishing the cutlass as before. Mr. Monxhouse took a more fatal aim, and the savage dropped ; upon which the main body, who had previously retired a little, began to advance ; three pieces, loaded only with small-shot, were therefore discharged, when they again fell back, and went slowly up the country — some of them evidently wounded. Cook, intent on establishing an amicable intercourse with these untractable barbarians, determined to make some of them prisoners, and to treat them with kindness in the hope of inspiring general confidence. Two canoes were soon after observed coming in from sea, and boats were despatched to intercept them ; but they endeavoured to escape, regardless of the fair promises shouted after them by Tupia. A musket was then fired over their heads, in the hope that *' it would either make them surrender or leap into the water ;" but they stripped for the combat, and assailed their pursuers so vigorously with stones and other missiles, that the English were obliged to fire. Thei( discharge killed four men ; while the rest of the crew, consisting of three boys, one of whom offered a stout resistance, were made captives. Justice to the memory of Cook requires us to give a place to his own remarks on this most unfortunate incident : — " I am conscious," he says, *' that the feeling of every reader of humanity will censure me for having fired upon these unhappy people ; and it is impos- sible that, upon a calm review, I should approve it myself. They certainly did not deserve death for not choosing to con- fide in my promises, or not consenting to come on board my boat, even if they had apprehended no danger ; but the nature of my service required me to obtain a knowledge of their coun- tiy, which I could no otherwise effect than by forcing my way m FIRST CIRCUMNAYIOATION OF COOK. 231 1 mto it in a hostile manner, or gaining admission through the confidence and good-will of the peojue. I had already tried the power of presents without effect ; and I was now prompt- ed, by my desire to avoid further hostilities, to get some of them on board, as the only method left of convincing them that we intended them no harm, and had it in our power to contribute to their gratification and convenience. Thus far my intentions certainly were not criminal ; and though in the contest, which I had not the least reason to expect, our victory might have been complete without so great an expense of life, yet, in such situations, when the command to fire has been given, no man can restrain its excess, or prescribe its effect.'** On being brought into the boat, the prisoners, who had squatted down in expectation of death, were clothed and am- ply fed. They soon became quite cheerful, and asked ques- tions with every appearance of pleasure and curiosity; but when night came on their spirits failed them, and they sighed often aiM loudly. When pacified in some measure by Tupia, they began to «ng a slow mournful song to an air much re- sembling a psalm-tune. Daylight, however, and another co- pious meal roused them to cheerfulness ; they were dressed and decorated, and fell into transports of joy when assured that they would be restored to their friends. Being at first unwillingly put ashore on a point of the coast which they said belonged to their enemies, who would certainly kill and eat them, they had soon afterward to seek protection in the boat. When landed a second time, they waded into the water, and earnestly requested to be again taken on board ; but the sailors had positive orders to leave them, and they were in a short time seen to join some of their associates. To the bay in which these transactions took place Cook gave the appellation of Poverty — ^because nothing but wood could be obtained : ac- cording to his calculation, it was in lat. 38° 42' S., and long. 181° 36' W. Leaving it on the 11th of October, he sailed southward along the shore for six days, till he reached, in lat. 40° 34' S., a high bluff head with cliffs of a yellow teint, on which he be- stowed the name of Cape Tumagain. Finding no suitable har- bour, and perceiving that the country manifestly altered for tiie worse, he changed his course to the northward, and in two * Hawkeswortb'fl C!oll., vol. il., p. 390. ■- •' • \-i 232 FIRST CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF COOK. *.. t' 1. days passed the spot where he first made the coast. Still pursuing its windings, on the 30th he doubled a high promon- tory of white rocks, which, from its position, he called East Cape. He now found the land trending in a northwesterly direction ; and as he ran along it, observed increasing signs of cultivation and fertility. The next day a number of skiffs came off crowded with warriors, who flourished their arms and uttered loud shouts of defiance, frequently repeating Haromai, haromai, Jiarre uta a peUoo-patoo oge ! " Come to us, come on shore, we will kill you all with our patoo-patoos [stone hatchets] !" In the flotilla was a canoe, by far the largest which had yet been seen, having no fewer than sixteen paddles on each side, and containing in all about sixty men. It was making directly for the ship, when a gun, loaded with grape, was fired ahead of it ; this caused the rowers to stop, and a round shot, which was fired over them, falling in the water, filled them with such terror that " they seized their paddles and made towards the shore so precipitately that they seemed scarcely to allow themselves time to breathe." The spot where this took place was named Cape Runaway ; and a creek, in which the En- deavour anchored three days after, was called Mercury Bay, from an observation of the transit of that planet here made. This harbour lay in latitude 36° 47' S., longitude 184° 4' W. ; and Cook did not quit it before the 15th of November, after taking formal possession in the name of his sovereign, and re- cording upon a tree the date of his visit to the country. The coast still trended northwestward, and as he sailed along, he kept as close to it as was consistent with safety. On the 26th he passed a remarkable point, which he named Cape Brett, and three days after anchored in a creek lying to the west of that promontory, which received the title of the Bay of Islands. He did not leave it till the 6th of December ; and passing, on the third day, a harbour on which he bestowed the appellation of Doubtless, he was informed by the na- tives, through the medium of Tupia, that, " at the distance of three days' rowing in their canoes, the land would take a short turn to the southward, and from thence extend no more to the west." The same tribe also said that there was to the northwest a large country, called Ulimaroa,* to which some * " Ulimaraa—qvm fiiut lire sans doute Oudi'Mara, peuple d*un lieu expose i la chaleur du soieil."— Voyage autour du Monde, par M^ J. Du mont D'Unrille (8vo, Paris, 1832), tome ii., p. 291. »K. iBt. Still I promon- Ued East hwesterly I signs of dffs came id uttered haromai, on shore, tchets] !" 1 had yet tach side, g directly ed ahead ot, which ivith such irards the to allow >ok place the £n- ^iry Bay, e made. 4'W.; •er, after and re- e sailed 1 safety. ' named lying to I of the ember ; ^stowed he na- ance of a short lore to to the some Tun lieu « J. Du t V FIRST CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF COOK. 235 people had once sailed in a very large canoe, and found that its inhabitants ate hogs. On the 17th, after encountering much adverse weather, Cook made the northern extremity of the island, which he named North Cape, in latitude 34° 22 S., and longitude 186° 65' W.* He stood off and on this prom- ontory till the 24th, when he discovered the Three Kings* Isl- ands of Tasman ; and on the 30th perceived the Cape Maria Van Diemen of the same navigator — ^the northwestern point of the country. Two remarkalue circumstances are recorded by Cook as occurring while he sailed round the extremity of New Zealand, namely, that in latitude 35° south, in the midst of summer, there was a gale of wind, such as, for strength and continuance, he had scarcely ever experienced before ; and that five weeks were spent in getting fifty leagues to the west- ward — no less than three of them in msJung only ten. Hap- pily, during the storm, his ship was far from land — " other- wise," he says " it is highly probable that we should never have returned to relate our adventures." From Cape Maria, the coast was found to stretch nearly southeast by south, and to present everywhere a barren shore, consisting of banks of white sand. In proceeding along it, Cook saued in the track of Tasman, though in an opposite direction. On the 10th January, 1770, he came in si^t of a lofty mountain, in latitude 39° 16' S., longitude 185° 16' W., which, in honour of the earl of that name, he designated Mount Egmont. In appearance it resembled the Peak of Teneriffe ; and its summit, when occasionally seen towering above the clouds which almost constantly enveloped it, was observed to be covered with snow. The country at its base was level, of a pleasant appearance, and thickly clothed with wood and verdure. On doubling a cape, which received the same title, he found himself in a large bay or opening, the southern end of which he could not distinguish. He sailed into it as far as latitude 40° it S., longitude 184° 39' W. In this position, besides the continuance of the same coast, there ap- peared an island towards the south, with several inlets, in one of which he resolved to careen the ship and take in a stock of wood and water. On the 15th, accordingly, he anchored in * Another Eoropean vessel was at this time off the coast of New ZeS' land— that of M. de SurvUle (see above, p. 107). The Doabtleee Bay of Cook aeeros to be the same with that which the French navigator, in honour of Law, the celebrated pN{}ector, desifnated Laorlstoo. 236 FIRST CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF COOK. a convenient harbour, about four long cannon-shot from a for- tified village, the inhabitants of which came off in canoes, and, after surveying the ship, made signs of defiance, and began the assault by a shower of stones. Tupia having expostulated with them, an old man came on board, in spite of his country- men's remonstrances. He was kindly received, and dismissed with presents, and on rejoining his companions^ they immedi- ately commenced dancing, in token of peace. The Otaheitan was sufficiently understood by them, and learned that they had never before seen or heard of such a vessel as the En- deavour ; from which it was concluded that no recollection was preserved of the visit of Tasman, in 1642, though this must have been near the place which he termed Murderers' Bay. I During his stay here. Cook, having ascended one of the neighbouring hills, beheld, to his surprise, the sea on each side of the island communicating by a passage or strait, on the south side of which his ship now lay. He soon after learned, what he had never before suspected, that the country was di- vided into two islands, the southern of which was called by the natives Tavai Poenammoo, and the northern Eaheinomau- we.* Having taken possession of the country in name of his sovereign, he left the inlet (on which he bestowed the appella- tion of Queen Charlotte's Sound) on the 6th of February, and soon found himself rapidly borne through the channel, which, in honour of its discoverer, geographers have unanimously recognised by the name of Cook's Straits. To the two capes which marked its eastern outlet he gave the titles of Palliser and Campbell, and on doubling the former he stood to the northward, to determine a question on which there were some doubts, whether Eaheinomauwe was really an island. On the 9th he came in sight of Cape Tumagain (termed by the natives Topplo-Polo), and the point being thus clearly estab- lished, he resumed hj". course to the southeast ; and running quickly along the shores of Tavai Poenammoo, on the 9th of March reached its farthest extremity, in latitude 47*^ 19' S., longitude 192° 12' W., which he named Cape South, t A * M. Dumont D'Urville, in Januar}', 1827, was assured by two natives that the southern island bore indifferently the title of Kal-Kohoura or Taval'Pounamou ; and that the northern was called Ika, was nearly coincident with that of Tasman from Van Diemen's Land to New Zealand. On the 15th of April the voyagers observed an egg-bird and a gannet, and on the next day a small land-bird alighted on the rigging, but no bottom was found with 120 fathoms. A pintado-bird and two Port Eg- mont hens were seen on the succeeding morning, and were considered certain signs of the vicinity of land, which indeed was discovered on the following day, the 19th, stretching from northeast to west. The most southerly point, which received the name of Lieu- tenant Hicks, who first descried it, was estimated to lie in latitude 38° S., and longitude 211° 7' W. ; but Cook could Taval-Pounamou par la dicouverte du d^troit de Foveaux." — D'Unrille tome ii., p. 339 ; M. Balbi, Abr^K^ de G^ographie, p. 1269. * Hawkesworth's Coll., vol. iii., p. 29. See above, p. 89-8S. 238 FIRST CIRCVMNAVIQATION OF COOK. not dctermino whether it joined Van Diomen'ii Land. Ho in- stantly made Rail to the northward, and on the 88th was in latitude 34^' 8., when he discovered a bay, in which he re- mained eight days. The coaat, so far as yet vinited, was of a pleasing aspect, diversiHed by hills, valleys, and lawns, and almost everywhere clothed with lofty trees. Smoke arose from the woods in several places, and some inhabitants, four of whom carried a small canoe upon their shoulders, were ob- served walking briskly along the shore ; but, owing to the •urf which broke on every part of the beach, it was unpossi- ble to approach them. On entering the bay, a few huts and several natives were seen ; four small canoes were likewise discerned, with one man in each, so busily occupied in stri- king fish with a long spear that they scarcely turned their eyes towards the ship, which passed them within a quarter of a mile. The anchor being cast in front of a village, prepara- tion was made for hoisting out a boat ; during which an aged female, followed by three children, issued from a wood. They were loaded with boughs, and on approaching a hut, three younger infants advanced to meet them ; but though they often looked at the ship, they expressed neither fear nor wonder. The same want of interest wras sliown by the four fishermen, who hauled up their canoes, and began to dress their food at the fke which the old woman had kindled. A party were sent out to effect a landing ; but no sooner had they approached some rocks than two of the men, armed with lances about ten feet long, and short sticks, which it was supposed they em- ployed in throwing their spears, came down and called aloud in a harsh language quite unknown to Tupia, brandishing their weapons, in evidence of their determination to defend the coast. The rest^ran off, abandoning their countrymen to an odds of forty to two. Having ordered his boat to lie on her oars, Cook made signs of friendship, and offered presents of nails and other trifles, with which the savages seemed to be pleased ; but, on the first symptom of a nearer approach to the shore, they again assumed a hostile bearing. A musket was fired between them, the report of which caused the younger to drop a bundle of lances, which he again snatched up, and a stone was thrown at the English. Cook now di- rected small shot to be used ; when the elder, being struck on the leg, ran to a hut, from which, however, he instantly re* turned bearing a sort of shield ; when he and his comrade FIRIT CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF COOK. 239 threw each • lance, but without inflicting injury. The fire of a third muBkot was fotlowod by the diHcbargo of another ■pear ; after which thn savages ran off. It was fonnd that the children had hidden themselves in one of the hut« ; and, with- out disturbing them, Cook, having left some beads and other articles, retired with all the lances ne could find. Next morn- ing not one of the trinkets had been moved, nor was a single native to be seen near the spot. Small |)arties were met with at other places during the ex- cursions m search of water, provisions, and natural curiosities. The people were perfectly naked, very dark coloured, but not black ; their hair was bushy, and some very old men were observed with long beards, while the aged females had their locks cropped short. They subsisted chiefly on fish, dressed at fires both on shore and in their canoes. The country was stocked with wood, of which, however, only two kinds were thought worthy of the appellation of timber ; shrubs, palms, mangroves, and a variety of plants — many unknown to the naturalists — were plentiful ; birds, some of great beauty, abounded ; and there were several strange quadrupeds. Such, to its first European visiters, appeared the characteristics of Botany Bay, so called from the profusion of plants with which, through the industry of Messrs. Banks and Solander, that department of natural history was enriched. To a har- bour about three miles farther north, " in which there appeared to be good anchorage," Cook gave the title of Port Jackson — a name which has become familiar in every quarter of the world. On the banks of this noble inlet have risen the towns of Sydney and Paramatta, and its waters, on which 1000 ships of the line might ride in safety, are whitened by th^ sails of almost every people of Europe. • On the 6th May our navigator resumed his pro^^ess north- ward along the coast, and in about a month h*d advanced nearly 1300 miles. On the 10th of June he was off a point which he afterward named Cape Tribulation, m latitude 16^ 6' S., and longitude 214° 39 W., near the position assigned to some of the discoveries of Quiros, which certain geogra- phers were of opinion formed part of some great mainland. With a view to see whether there were any in the ofiing, and to avoid two low woody islets ahead, hie hauled from the shore, intending to stretch out all night, with the prospect of a fine breeze and clear moonlight. About 9 o'clock, the 240 FIRST CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF COOK. water, which had deepened from fourteen to twenty-one fath- oms, suddenly shoaled, and, within the space of a few minutes, fell to twelve, ten, and eight. Preparation was immediately made for putting about and coming to anchor ; but the next cast of the line showing deep water, it was thought the vessel had got over the shoals. Full twenty fathoms were next sounded, and the depth continued to increase ; so that the gentlemen who had been summoned on deck retired to bed in perfect security. A few miimtes before 1 1 o'block, however, the water shallowed suddenly to seventeen fathoms, and, be- fore the lead could be again cast, the Endeavour struck on a xock, and remained immoveable except by the heaving of the surge. Boats being immediately hoisted out, it was found that she had been lifted over a ledge, and now lay in a sort of basin, with only from three to four fathoms of water in some places, and in others not so many feet. An anchor was car- ried out from the stem, in hopes that it would take ground with sufficient firmness to resist the action of the capstan,*^ so that the ship might be moved into deep water ; but every ex- ertion to effect this was fruitless. Meanwhile the vessel beat on the rocks with such violence, that the crew could scarcely keep their footing; and to increase their dismay the light of the moon showed them that the sheathing-boards had been separated from the bottom, and were floating around. The false keel followed, so that the only chance of safety seemed to lie in lightening the ship. But she had struck at the height of the tide, which was now fallen considerably, and the next flow must return before that process could be of any advan- tage. That all might be in readiness, however, the water was started in the hold and pumped up ; all the g'^ns on deck, the iron and stone ballast, casks, and many CtHer articles^ were thrown overboard ; while the crew became so impressed with their danger that not an oath was heard — '* the habit of profaneness, however strong, being instantly subdued by the dread of incurring guilt when death seemed to be so near.'* At daybreak land was seen about eight leagues off; the ship still held together ; and the wind having happily fallen, and a dead calm ensuing, anchors were got out and every thing prepared for heaving her off the rock ; but, though light- ened nearly fifty tons, she did not float by a foot and a hall, so far short was the tide of the day from that of the night. Greatly discouraged, the crew proceeded to diminish ker • [ FIRST CIRCUMNAVIOATION OF GOOK. 341 »ne fath- ninutes, ediately ;he next le vessel ;re next that the o bed in lowever, and, be- ack on a ig of the 18 found a sort of in some was car- } ground pstan,«^ so jvery ex- ssel beat scarcely ight of Lad been The seemed height le next advan- le water on deck, articles, pressed labit of by the lear off; »» the fallen, I every h light- hm, so I night, ish ker weight still more, by throwing overboard every thing that could be spared; but now the water, hitherto nearly excluded, rushed in so fast, that two pumps, incessantly working, could barely keep her afloat ; and about two o'clock she lay heeling to starboard, while the pinnace, which was under her bow8« touched the ^ound. There could, therefore, be no hope of getting her on till the midnight tide, which began to rise by five iP. M. About that time the leak was observed to be rap idly increasing; and though by nine the ship righted, the water, notwithstanding the action of three pumps, gained con- siderably. Shortly after ten she floated, and was heaved clear from the ledge into deep water. The labour at the pumjM had now totally exhausted the men, lione of whom could work beyond a few minutes, when, falling down on the deck, their places were supplied by others. Still they gained so consid- erably on the water, that, by the following morning, no doubt was entertained of the ship's ultimate ssiiety. As the leak, however, continued, and the toil of pumping was excessive^ Mr. Monkhouse, who had formerly been in like danger, sug- gested the expedient oifothering the vessel-^that is, girthing round the bottom a sail properly covered with oakum, and kept stretched by means of ropes. It was tried, and answered do well, that the use of two pumps could now be dispensed with. 'On the evening of the 12th they cast anchor about seven leagues from the land ; but it was not till the 17th that, ti safe harbour having been found, the ship was hauled ashore to undergo repairs. It was then discovered that her preserva- tion was due to a very singular circumstance. " One of the holes,** says the commander, " which was big enough to have sunk us if we had had eight pumps instead of four, and had been able to keep them incessantly going, was in great meas- ure plugged up by a fragment of the rock, which, after having made the wound, was left sticking in it ; so that the water which at first had gained upon our pumps was what came in at the interstices between the stone and the edges of the hole that received it."* A small stream near the spot where the vessel was refitted received the name of Endeavour River. Here, for the first time. Cook himself obtained a sight of the kangaroo, a species t>f quadruped before that time unknown to European natural- * Hawk^worttt'i CMI.> vol. Ul., p. Ifft 242 FIRST CtRCITMNAyiGATION OF COOK. ^ ists. It had previously been observed by some of his compan- ions, and astonished them by its extraordinary leaps, the speed of which set a greyhound belonging to Mr. Banks at defiance. It was described by one of the sailors, who ahnost took it for the devil, to be '* as large as a one-gallon keg, and very like it ; he had horns and wings, yet he crept so slowly through the grass, that if I had not been afeard 1 might have touched him." The navigators left this spot on the 6th August, with the resolutron of pursuing a northeast course, and keeping the* pinnace in front to guide them by signals; but they were speedily compelled to cast anchor by sudden shoal water. On the following day nothing was in view but breakers ex- tending on all sides, and far out to the open sea, into which there seemed no entrance, except through a labyrinth of coral rocks, in some parts as steep as a wall, at others edged with patches of sand, covered only at high water. Nearly a week passed among these and other perus, when, getting between the mainland and three small islands, they thought they had discovered a clear opening. But the appellation Cape Flattery denotes its deceptive promise, and they still found themselves obliged to keep near the shore. After a few days^ they reached a channel which conducted them beyond the breakers. Early on the morning of the 16th they were alarmed by the roaring of the surf, which at dawn they saw foaming to a vast height at about a mile's distance ; while the depth waai 80 great, that they could not reach the ground with an anchor. In the absentc of wind to fill a sail, tne waves drove them rapidly towards the reef. Boats were immediately sent ahead to tow the ves««l off, but they would have failed to save her had not a Ught breeze moved her obliquely from the reef when she was within 100 yards of it. In less than ten minutes the wind again fell, and the ship was driven towards the breakers ; it once more sprung up, and a short space was gained. Meanwhile an opening appeared in the reef, by which, though not broadfir than the length of the vessel, it was determined to attempt a passage into the smooth water behind. But, before it could be reached, the tide of ebb rushed out of it like a mill-stream, and drove her off. This, though a con- siderable disappointment, enabled the navigators, with much exertion, to make an offing of nearly two miles. Their situ- I i FIRST OIRCVMNAYIQATION OF COOR. 349 ation was nevertheless critical in the extreme, till another narrow opening was seen to the west, throng which they were hurried with amazing n4>idity ; and shortly afterward cast anchor within the reef m nineteen fathoms, gratefully naming the passage through which they had escapra ProTi- dential Channel. On the 21st Cook made York Cape, the most northerly point of the coast, in latitude 10° 37' S., longitude SIS^' 24' W. ; and having landed on a small island, he hoisted the English colours, and took possession of the whole eastern coast of New Holland, from latitude 99^ to latitude 10l<* S.( by the name of Nkw Soutu Walks. The discovery made by the companion of Quiros, in 1606, of the strait between Piqpua and Australia, was, as has been already lu. rtioned, at this time entirely forgotten ;* and Cook» in sailit .een them, settled the much-agitated question^ " WheW .. ^ 'jw Holland and New Guinea were separate islands V' To the channel which divides them he gave the name of his ship, by which it is sometimes recognised, al- though more commonly known by the name of its first ex- plorer, Torres. Its length, from northeast to southwest, was reckoned ten leagues ; and its breadth five, except at the northeast entrance, where it was contracted to less than two miles by certain islands. The voyagers left it on the 28d of August, and two days after had a narrow esci^pe firom some shoals, which they approached within half a cable's length. On the 3d of September they landed on New Guinea, near the Cape de la Colta St. Bonaventura, in latitude 6° IM' S. The natives resembled those of Australia, but their skin was not so dark ; they were equally naked, quite as hostile, and in possession of a species of firearms which emitted flame and smoke like a musket ; but the short sticks firom which these issued, and which were swung sidewise from the bearer, made no report. It was uncertain if they projected any thing that could do mischief at a distance ; for the whole phenom- enon, thou^ it excited wonder at t^e time, was imperfectly observed ; nor are we aware that it has since bees satisfac- torily explained. Our navigator now determined to proceed westward towards the Straits of Sunda. On the 9th he came in sight of Timor, *8esabove.p.80,9S, 101, l»,aiulSQO. , . 244 FIRST CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF COOK. and six days after anchored at Savu, or Sou, an island to th» west southwest, colonized by the Dutch, who succeeded the Portuguese in its occupation, but at the time so little known to Europeans, that Cook considered it as a new discovery. Leaving it on the 21st of September, he came to anchor on the 9th of the following month in the road of Batavia, where it was intended to repair the vessel. On their arrival, all the ship's company, except the Otaheitan, were in good health,, and even he, delighted with every thing he saw, continued for a few days to improve in strength and spirits. But, soon after, Tupia and others became alarmingly indisposed, and in a short space the sickness spread so much that only a very ■mall number could perform duty. Mr. Monkhouse, the sur- geon, was the first victim to this pestilential spot ; Dr. So-^ Mnder was barely able to attend his funeral ; Mr. Banks lay confined to bed ; some of his servants were dangerous^ af- fected ; Tupia and his boy were evidently sinking apace ; Cook himself was taken ill : in short, the work of death had com- menced, and threatened, if not speedily arrested, to overtake the whole. Before the Endeavour took her departure, on the 26th of December, seven of her complement had died, and the number of sick amounted to forty. Among the deceased were Tayeto and his kind protector Tupia, " who sunk at once after the loss of the boy, whom he loved with the ten- derness of a parent." On inspecting the ship, it was found that two planks and the half of a third, under the main chan^ ncl, near the keel, had the extent of six feet so worn, as not to be above the eighth of an inch in thickness ; and even this gauze-like partition, on which the lives of so many had de- pended, was perforated by worms. The remainder of the voyage was marked by an alarming mortality, the seeds of which were no doubt sown at Batavia. In the run from the western mouth of the Straits of Sunda to the Cape of Good Hope, which was reached on the 15th of March, 1771, few nights passed without a corpse being com- mitted to the deep, and those still able to move could not answer the demands of the sick. In the course of six weeks, the pestilence carried off Messrs. Sporing and Parkinson, both in the establishment of Mr. Banks ; Mr. Green, the as- tronomer, and various others ; in all twenty-three persons^ besides the seven who died at Batavia, and Mr. Hicks, thei fycBt lieutenant, who soon after fell a victim to consumption.. }u FIRST CIRCUMNAYIOATION OF COOK. 245 The Endeavour left the Cape on the 14th of April, and on the 12th of June came to anchor in the Downs. This memorable voyage excited among all classes the most intense interest. " Iv' wrote Linnaeus, from Upsal, " I were not bound fast here by sixty-four years of age, and a worn-out body, I would this very day set out for l^ndon, to see my /dear Solander — that great hero of botany. Moses was not permitted to enter Puestine, but only to view it from a dis- tance ; so I conceive an idea in my mind of the acquisitions uid treasures of those who have visited every part of the globe." At home, Mr. Banks and his companions became the objects of general ctiriosity ; their conversation was easerly sought by the learned, the noble, and the wealthy ; and even royalty found deliffht in listening to the adventures of the discoverers, and examming the specimens of the arts and manufactures which they hut gathered in the distant countries they had eiplored.* The manner in which Cook had discharged his duty se- cured him almost universal approbation. He was honoured with an introduction to his majesty at St. James*s, when he presented a journal of his voyage, with illustrative maps and charts ; and by a commission, dated 29th August, 1771, he was promoted to the rank of commander. With a becoming pride and consciousness of his own merits, he was desirous to obtain higher station ; but his wish could not be gratified without iolating the rdes of the naval service. * Interest attached itself even to the animals which were on board the EndeaTour in her eventAil navigation ; and Dr. Johnson conde< ■eended to write an indifferent epigram on a goat which Mr. Banks had carried with him round the globe :— "Perpetua ambitA bis terrft pramia lactis Hoc habet altrici C«pra secunda Jovis." X8 :, :n 'W •,■■! .', . . , .*,, * -V-* * 246 SECOND CIRCUMNAYIftATION OF COOK. CHAPTER X. Second Circumnavigation of Cook. Objeetaof the Voyage.— Search fbrBouvet's Land.--Tbe Soathern Conti- nent.— Aurora Auatralis.— Arrival at New Zealand.— Visit to the Low Archipelago. —Oiaheite. —Huaheine.— Ulieiea. — Rediscovery of the Tonga or Friendly iHlands.— Second Visit to New Zealand.— Separation orthe Ships.— Search Torthe Terra Australia resumed.— Highest South Latitude attained.— Dangerous Illness of Cook.— Easter iHland.— Las Marquesas.- The Society Islands.— The Tonga Islands.— New Hebri- des.— Discovery of New Caledonia.— Norfolk Island.— 1'hird Visit to New Zealand.— Run acroos the Pacific— Purvey of TienadelFuego and Staten Land.— Discovery of New South Georgia and Sandwich Land.— Return to the Cape of Good Ho)ie.— Adventures of Captain Furneaux.— Conclusion of the Voyage.— Honours paid to Cook.— His Narrative of the Expedition.— Omai in England. Althouoh, by circumnavigating New Zealand and ex- ploring the eastern coasts of New Holland, Cook had exploded the opinion so long cherished, that these countries belonged to the great Terra Australia Incognita^ yet the question of a vast southern continent remained undecided, and a belief in its existence was still strongly entertained, both on physical and historical grounds, by some of the most distinguished men of that day. Soon after the return of the Endeavour, it was resolved to prepare an expedition expressly to settle this much-agitated point. The Earl of Sandwich, then at the head of the Ad- miralty, prosecuted the design with ardour ; it received the cordial approbation of the king ; and Cook was at once chosen as the individual to whom the execution of it ought to be in- trusted. On considering the nature and dangers of the voyage, it was deemed advisable that two vessels should act in concert. These were similar in size and construction to the Endeavour, and had been built at "U^iitby by the same person. The Resolution, of which Cook had the command, was rated at 462 tons burden ; and the Adventure,* of 336 tons, was * From an anecdote preserved by Bnswell, it appears that it was ori- Cinally iotanded to heatow other names on the vessels. " 2lBt March, :i It SECOND CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF COOK. 247 placed under Captain Fumeaux, who had sailed as second lieu- tenant under Wallis. The former had a complement of 112, and the latter of 81, officers and men. Both were equipped in the most complete manner, according to ^' j science and experi- ence of the period, under the eye of Lux d Sandwich ; and, be- sides the very best stores and provisions, the navy and victual- ling boards supplied a variety of articles, intended for the pres- ervation of the seamen's health. Among these were malt, sour- krout, salted cabbage, portable broth, saloop, and mustard- all well-known antiscorbutics ; to which were added, for the sake of trial, marmalade of carrots, and the inspissated juice of wort and beer. Clothing suitable to a cold climate was put on board the ships, together with ample materials for fish- ing, and articles to serve as presents for the natives of the countries visited, and as money for the purchase of provisions. Each vessel had likewise the framework of a tender, to be set up, if required, on any emergency. Nor were the interests of science neglected ; Mr. Hodges, an accomplished artist, was engaged as draughtsman ; and Messrs. Banks and Solander having abandoned their design of accompanying the expedi- tion,* Ml. John Reinhold Forster and his son were employed 1772. A gentleman having come in who was to go as a mate in the ship aiong with Mi Banlis and Dr. Solander, Ur. Johnson asked what were tlie names of the ships destined for the expedition. The gentleman answered. They were once to be called the Drake and the Raleigh, but now they were to be called i he Resolution and the Adventure. Johnson. — * M uch better; fur had the Kaleigh [the Drake?] returned without going round the world, it would have been ridiculous. To give ihem the names or the Drake and the Raleigh was laying a trap for satire.' BoswelL—* Had not you some desire to go upon this expedition, sir V Johnson.—* Why yes, but I soon laid it aside. Sir, there is very little of intellectual in tue course. Besides, I see but at a small distance. So it was not worth my while to go to see birds fly which I should not have seen fly ; and fldhes swim which I should iioi nave men swim.' "—Bos? well's life of Johnson (Mr. Croker's ed.), vol. ii., p. 138. * An attempt has been lately made to ascribe the change in Mr. Banks' intentions to the alleged moroseness of Cook s temper. In a report from a committee of the Geographical Society of Paris (Annales Maritimes, January, 1831), it is said :— " Du rests |e caract^re inflexible et morose de cet intr^pide marin rendit souvent aux persoimes appel6es & servir sous ses ordres leur position d^sagr^Hble. On se souvient que Banks renonga A Taccompagner dans soti second voyage, bien qu'il edt tout disp«is6 dans cete intention." Tiiis charge appears destitute on he slightest foundation. During the flrst voyage, which extended to nearly three yearti, Sir Joseph could not fail to become intlmat*tly acquainted with the peculiarities of Cook's disposition ; and knowing these so fully, it is quite inconsistent with tbe decision and whole character of the late president of the Royal 248 8BC0ND CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF COOK. as naturalists.* Parliament made a grant of 4000/., *' as an encouragement for the more effectually prosecuting the dis« coveries towards the south pole ;" and by agreement with the Board of Longitude, two gentlemen of distinguished ac- Soclety to suppose that be would bsve determined to Join the expedition, and made expensive arrangement*, only to forego his design when the hour of sailing was at hand. Indeed, it is well known that he gave up bis pn^t only " because the Navy Board showed no willingness to pro« vide that accommodation which the extent of his preparations and tbs number of his scientific ibllowurs required." The following statement is given in the Annual Register for 1773 (p. 106), under the date of lltn June :— *' Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander were not consulted on the choice of the ship ; and on their objecting to her want of accommodation for their draughtsmen, &c., as well as to her want of room to stow the cr9W, the Navy Board undertook to give all those conveniences, and patched the same ship with a round-house and square deck, and without considering whether she could bear it, manned and equipped her for the vovage. Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, fcc, examined her a second time ; found her convenient if she could sail, of which they doubted, and re> ported her top-heavy. Their observations were disregarded ; but a gals of wind srising, laid her on her side without her having a single sail unreeftd, and she could not fiir some time recover ; they ordered the long- boat to save the crew, when unexpectedly she reeovered. Notwith* standing this accident, she was reported good, and fit for the voyage, and was onfered to Plymouth. The |Mlot obeyed these orders, sending word he could not ensure her out of the river. At last it was found that the fkroe could not be carried on longer, and the reports on which the Navy Board proceeded were found fklse ; expresses were sent along the eoast to Deal, fcc, to order her into the nearest dock to Sheerness, if they could overtake her ; this was no difficult task ; for while the other ships clesred the Downs, she did not make one knot an hour. She was put into dock ; they cut off her round-house and part of iier deck, reduced the cabin, and put her in the same unfit situation she was in when first objected to ; and then the question was politely put to Mr. Banks, ' Take this or none.' Mr. Banks has laid out several thousand pounds fbr instruments, Ac, preparatory for the voyage ; Mr. Zofiknl (a well-known painter) Dear lOOM. for necessaries, and the other gentlemen very considerable •urns on that account." * This voluminous author was born at Dirschau, in Polish Prussia, on the 2Sd October, 1790. He came to England in 1766, and was endued by the Admiralty as naturalist to Cook's expedition at the brief wammg of ten days. His unfortunate temper involved him in continual broils with his shipmates, one of whom informs us that Forater in these disputes so often used the threat, *' I will complain to the king !" that the expression became proverbial among the seamen, and was joeulariy employed by them on the most trifling occasions. He took with him In this expedi- tion his son, John George Adam (more commonly called George), then 17 yean old, who published an account of the circumnavigation under the iltle of" A Voyage round the World in His Britmnlc Majesty's Sloop Resolution." LoMon, 1777, S vols. 4to. A translation into German ^h peared at Berlin in 1770-1780. The numerous and offensive attacks upon the conduct of the officers and crew called fortha icailiDg pamphlet ftoia ;ii SECOND CIRCUMNATIOATION OF COOK. 249 quirements, Messrs. Wales and Bayly, furnished with the best instruments and timepieces, undertook the astronomical de- partment. llie ships thus equipped joined in Plymouth Sound, on tho 3d of July, 1772 ; and, after a farewell visit from Lord Sandwich and Sir Hugh Palliser, Cook received his instruc- tions, dated the 25th of the preceding month. They di' rected hiii to proceed to the Cape of Good Hope, where he was to refresh his crews, and take in provisions. He was then to sail to the southward in quest of a point of land named Circoncision, said to have been discovered in latitude 540 20' S., and between nine and eleven degrees of east longi- tude. In the event of falling in with it, ne was to satisfy himself whether it belonged to an island, or formed part of the Terra Australia so long souffht, and to explore it as dili- gently and extensively as possible. This being accompUshed, or in case he should not find the cape, he was to proceed to the southward, so long as he thought there was a likelihood of falling in with a continent, and thence towards the east with the same view ; and, generally, he was instructed to discover such islands as might exist in the unexplored part of the southern hemisphere, keeping in high latitudes, and prose- cuting his inquiries as near the pole as possible, until he had circumnavigated the globe. The cape mentioned in the instructions had been visited, it was reported, by a French officer, M. Lozier Bouvet, who, ..I 'I I the sHtronomer, entitled, " Remarks on Mr. Fornter^s Account of Taptain Cook's Last Voyage. By Wm. Wales, F.R.S.," London, 1778, 8vo, which oecflHioned a *' Reply to Mr. Wales's Remarks, by Mr. Forsier,** London, 1778, 8vo. In the succfHiding year, he published " A Letter to the Earl of Sandwich," Ix)ndoM, 1779, 4to, in which he attempted to prove that he and his Ihther were not rewarded sufficiently, nor agreeably to the contract, for their services. It was rommonly supposed at the lime that the account nf the voyage was the joint production of both; bat this WAS denied by George. The style is inflated and pom|M>us, the re- flections arc Tor the most part in a very Iklse taste, and the work is dis- figured throughout by that superficial and flmcinil philosophy, which the writings of Lord Kaiuies have rendered well known in Scot- land. John Reinhold gave to the public " Olwervation^ made during a Voyage round the World on Pliynical Geography, Natural History, and Ethical Philosophy ." Ixindon, 1778, 4tn. He died at Halle, in Germany, on the 0th December, 1798, aged 70; his son decetised at Parii* on the 13th January, 1794, in the 40; h year of his lilie.— Memoirs by Eyries, in Biographie Universelle, vol. xv., p. 282-290. Nicbots' Literary Anec* dotes, vol. Ui., p. 90-02. note. \ ^1 250 SECOND CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF COOK. '( on tlie 19th July, 1738, Bailed from Fort TOrient in command of two frigates, to search for land about the latitude of 44^ S., longitude 355° eastward from Teneriffe, where some ancient charts had placed a promontory of the southern continent. On the Ist January, 1739, in latitude 54° SO* S., longitude 25° 47' east from the same meridian, he got sight of land, which, in honour of the day, was named Cape de la Circon- cision. It was his^ and steep, the mountains were for the most part covered with snow, and the coast was bordered with ice. From the state of the weather no boat could pru- dently attempt to reach it ; and the navigators left it without being able to determine whether it was part of a continent or an island.* Cook took his departure from England on the 13th July ; made the Cape of Good Hope on the 29th October ; and next morning anchored in Table Bay, where he remained till the 22d of November. Before sailing, he wp^ induced, by the solicitation of Mr. Forster, to receive on board, as an as- sistant to the naturalists. Dr. Sparrmann, by birth a Swede, and a disciple of Linnaeus. The course was first directed towards the discovery of Bouvet ; but adverse and stormy winds drove the navigators far to the eastward of their intended track, and left them no hopes of reaching the desired promontory. They likewise lost the greater part of their live stock, and underwent no little inconvenience by the rapid transition from the warm climate of the Cape to that incident to the latitude of 48° 41' S., which, in the longitude of 18° 24' £., they had attained on the 6th of December. On the 10th they found themselves two degrees farther south, and for the first time descried islo ands of ice, some of which were upwards of fifty feet in height ; while such was the fury of the waves, that the sea broke quite over them. Tlie latitude of Point Circoncision was attained on the 13th ; but the voyagers considered them- selves about 118 leagues to the eastward of its position. On the morning of the next day their course to the south was arrested by an immense field of ice, to which they could see no end, either in the east, west, or south. Some of them, and Cook himself at one time, thought land was discernible over it ; but this delusive appearance, it was soon discovered, * Bomey, Cbron. Hist, Discov,, vol, v., p. 30-37. COOK. 8SC0ND CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF COOK. 251 in command leof440 S., ome ancient n continent. !., longitude ^ht of land, > la Circon^ irere for the as bordered t could pru- ft it without continent or 13th July ; Etober; and emained till induced, by d, as an as- I a Swede, iscovery of navigators $ft them no kewise lost nt no little rm climate 18° 41' S., ttained on themselves escried isl- ty feet in at the sea Irconcision ired them- tion. On south was could see of them, iscemible scovered, had been occasioned by ice-hills observed through a hazy at* mosphere. Several days were spent in sailing alonff this im- penetrable mass, or in clearing various islands which were floating near it. The weather, meanwhile, was generally foggy, with sleet and snow, from which the whole crew suf- fer^ much, though the thermometer did not descend below 80°. Symptoms of scurvy in both vessels, at the same time, excited some uneasiness ; but, by the copious use of fresh i\rort, these were removed. On the supposition that the ice which had been encountered ^as formed in bays and rivers, it seemed probable that, as !and could not be far distant, it might lie beyond the large ield which alone barred the approach to it. Cook determined 10 run thirty or forty leagues to the east, then endeavour to iteer southward, and, by getting behind the ice, set the ques- lion at .rest. But, though he proceeded in this direction for lome time, and afterward sailed both to the south and the vest of the alleged position of Bouvet's discovery, he neither fell in with it nor observed any certain indication of land. Penguins, indeed, were seen in abundance, birds which, as is commonly believed, never go far from shore. On the 4th of January, 1773, he quitted a part of the sea vhich he had amply explored, and took a course more to the louth. On the 17th he crossed the antarctic circle in the Ion- ntude of 39° 36' ; but about six o'clock the same evening, in atitude 67° 15' S., he found that farther progress in that di- rection was impracticable, ** the ice being entirely closed to ihe south, in the whole extent from east to west southwest, without the least appearance of any opening." This vast body was composed of masses in the various forms of high hills, loose or broken pieces packed closely together, and what the Grreenlandmen call field-ice. One floating portion of this last kind, to the southeast, was of such size, that no end to it could be seen from the mast-head ; it was sixteen or eighteen feet in height, and pretty equal on the surface. In this sit- uation many whales were observed ; the brown, white, and blue peterels were met with in considerable numbers, together with a few dark-gray albatrosses ; but the pintados, so com- mon in lower latitudes, had wholly disappeared. Amid the dangers and privations to which tlie discoverers had been so long exposed, they were enabled to command an inexhausti- ble supply of fresh water, by dissolving portions of ice whicU ./: 262 SECOND CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF COOK* i t< I . Ml hftd been allowed to remain on deck a short time, for the pur- pose of draining off the salt which adhered to the surface ; and in this manner, in the space of a few hours, no less than fifteen tuns were obtained. It was perfectly sweet and well tasted. The summer of those southern regions was already hall spent, and Cook did not consider it prudent to persevere in the attempt to reach a higher latitude, especially as some time would be consumed in getting round the ice, even if this were practicable, which he doubted. He therefore resolved to pro- ceed in search of lands said to have been lately discovered by some French officers, of whose enterprises he had received a meager report at the Cape of Good Hope. In prosecution oi this object, he first sailed north over part of the sea already trav* ersed, and then northeast till, on the 1st of February, he reached latitude 48° dC, nearly in the meridian of the Mauritius i but though he used the precaution of keeping some miles dis^ tant from the Adventure, with a view to more extensive search, neither that vessel nor his own got sight of land< On the day last mentioned, indeed, Captain Fumeaux pointed out circum- stances which seemed to indicate its vicinity ; but there was no possibility of determining whether it lay to the east or the west ; and the state of the winds prevented complete invest!' gation. Other signs of a similar kind were subsequently noticed, but they led to no result ; and our navigator, when in latitude 48° 6', and longitude 68° 22' E., being satisfied tha< if there was any land near him it could only be an island oi inconsiderable extent, bore away to the east southeast. A separation between the two vessels took place on the 8th( ** though," says Cook, " we were at a loss to tell how it had been effected." He continued to pursue a southeast course, and was tantalized by some indications of land, especially the appearance of penguins and other birds, but found them decep< tive. On the 17tn, for the first time, he saw luminous ap' pearances in the heavens similar to those in the other hemi" sphere, which have been named Aurora Borealis or Northern Streamers. " The natural state of the heavens," says Mr^ Wales, *' except in the southeast quarter, and for about 10° of altitude all round the horizon, was a whitish haze, through which stars of the third magnitude were just discernible. All round, the horizon was covered with thick clouds, out of which arose many streams of a pale reddish light that ascended to* 1 300K* SECOND CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF COOK. 253 , for the pur- the surface; no less than 'eet and well already half persevere in 18 some time n if this were lolved to pro- liscovered by d received a rosecution oi already trav* y, he reached Mauritius I le miles dis- nsive search. On the day I out circum" ut there wa» i east or the )lete investi' lubsequently igator, when satisfied that an island oi itheast. A on the 8th, how it had east course, pecially the hem decep* minous ap' )ther hemi" )r Northern ," says Mr, about 10° ze, Uurough nible. All It of which icended to- wards the zenith. These streams had not that motion which they are sometimes seen to have in England, but were per- fectly steady, except a small tremulous motion which some of them had near their edges." This remarkable phenomenon recuned several times ; and on one occasion, writes the tts- tronomer, "the evening was very clear, and the Southtm Lights were exceeding bright and beautiful, and appe;,~ed . f a semicircular or rainbow-like form, whose two extxcu'wien were nearly in the east and west points of the horizon. Thi t bow, when it first made its appearance, passed a consideriiblo way to the north of the zenith ; but rose by degree?, tui^iiiig, as it were, on its diameter, and, passing through the ,^f?> \tHy settled at length towards the southern horizon. Tbfcia ii^ht? were at one time so bright that we could discern t;vti biitidovvs on the deck."* On board the Adventure, as we aro apsured by Mr. Bayly, " they were so bright that large print might havo been read by their light." Cook had intended again to penetrate beyond the aTiif.rctio circle, notwithstanding the advanced season of the ycRr ar.d the severity of the weather ; but huge masses of ice, broken and driven about by a heavy sea, with which, during dark nights, it was scarcely possible to avoid coming in contavit, deterred him from the design. He therefore stood to the northeastward, and on the 8th of March attained latitude 59*^ 44' S., in longitude 121° 9' E., where, besides the pleasure of a bright sky, and an atmospliere as serene and mild as bid occurred since leaving the Cape of Good Hope, there was that of having not a single island of ice in sight. In the after- noon, however, the heavens portended a storm, wl ich .-p.ed- ily came on, and lasted till the evening of the 10th, att\inded by a very high sea, and followed by a long hollow i'Wfjll from S.S.E. and S.E. by S. "Whoever attrmv/ely considers this," says Cook, "must conclude that theij can be no land to the south but what must be at a j|rreat distance." A return of moderate weather would have inclined him to venture in that direction ; but ha was boon convinced that he had gone far enough, and that the time was approaching when uiese seas could not be navigated. On the 17th he was in latitude 59° 7' S., and longitude * Astronomicnl Observations m»de in a Voyage towards the South Pole. Lond., 1777, 4to, p ai3, 314. y 254 SECOND CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF COOK. 146° 53' E., when, having determined to quit the high south- em latitudes, he bore away northeast and north, and on the 26th of March came in sight of New Zealand. The next day he anchored in Dusky Bay, after being 117 days at sea, and having in that time sailed 3660 leagues without once seeing land. It might have been apprehended that a voyage of such length, in a region so inclement, could not be performed with- out the prevalence of scurvy ; but only one man suffered much by that disease, to which he was predisposed by a bad habit of body and by a complication of other disorders. The general good health of his crew was by Cook attributed mainly to the liberal use of sweet wort, and to the frequent airing of the ship by fires. A more commodious harbour having been discovered by Lieutenant Pickersgill, whose name was given to it, the ship was removed thither on the 28th, and all hands were speedily busied in obtaining water, cutting down wood, setting up the observatory, forge, and tents, brewing beer from the branches or leavss of the spruce-fir, seeking provisions, botanizing, and exploring the country. The transition from their late weari- some monotony of life to such employments was made with general delight. For a long time the crew had been engaged m continual struggles to evade masses of ice which threatened destruction every moment, amid storms and mists, and with- out either refreshment or sight of land. They now found themselves In a genial climate and a fertile country, the woods of which were mellowed by the teints of approaching autumn, and resounded with the songs of strange birds. " The view of rude sceneries in the style of Rosa," writes Mr. ForstCT, " of antediluvian forests which clothed the rock, and of nu- merous rills ^of water which everywhere rolled down the steep declivity, altogether conspired to complete our joy; and so apt is mankind, after a long absence from land, to be preju- diced in favour of the wildest shore, that we looked upon the country at that time as one of the most beautiful which nature, unassisted by art, could produce."* The more sober-minded Cook tranquilly " hoped to enjoy with ease what in our situa- tion might \)e called the luxuries of life." An examination of the bay convinced him that there were few places in New * Fonter's Voyage, vol. l.,p. 124. SECOND CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF COOK. 255 r 1 Zealand yet visited which afforded the necessary refreshments no plenteously ; and we are informed, that notwithstanding the rains, which were frequent at this season, " such as were sick and ailing recovered daily, and the whole crew soon became strong and vigorous, which can only be attributed to the healthiness of the place and the fresh provisions it afforded." The navigators left Dusky Bay on the 11th May, and pro- ceeded along the shore towards Queen Charlotte's Sound, meeting with nothing worthy of remark till the 17th, when a gentle gale having sunk into a calm, and a clear sky becom- ing suddenly obscured by dense clouds, several water-spouts were seen. Four of them rose and spent themselves between the ship and the land ; the fifth was outside the vessel ; while the sixth, which first appeared in the southwest at the dis- tance of two or three miles, and had a progressive motion in an irregular line to the northeast, passed harmlessly within fifty yards of the stem. " I was then below looking at the barometer," says Mr. Wales ; " when I got upon deck it was about 100 yards from the ship. It is impossible to say what would have been the consequences if it had gone over her ; but I believe they would have been very dreadful. . . . I think that none of these spouts continued entire more than ten minutes, perhaps not quite so long. I saw four complete at one time ; but there were great numbers which began to form, and were dispersed, by what cause I know not, before the cloud and water joined."* Queen Charlotte's Sound was reached at dawn of the fol- lowing day, and general satisfaction was diffused by the ti- dings that the Adventure was in the harbour. Captain Fur- neaux had lost sight of his consort in a thick fog, and after firing a gun every half hour as a signal without receiving an answer, and havmg passed three days, according to agree- ment, in a cruise as near as possible to the same place, he bore away several degrees north of Cook's track towards Van Diemen's Land. He made the faither extremity of this island on the 10 th March, and having examined its southern and eastern shores, came to the opinion, " that there are no straits between New Holland and Van Diemen's Land, but a very deep bay." On the 19th, when in about 89 degrees of lati< h * Astronomical Obserrations, p. 846. 256 SECOND CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF COOK. \' r?" ft. iv *x tudo, with land in view, finding " the ground very uneven and shoal water some distance off," ho discontinued his northerly course and stood away for New Zealand. A passage of fif- teen days having hrought him to the coast of that country, ho entered Ship Cove on the 7th April, from which period till the arrival of the Resolution he haa held a peaceable intercourse with the natives. . No long stay was made in the sound after the junction of the vessels. Cook resolving, notwithstanding the season of winter, rather to traverse the ocean as far as the longitude of 135° or 140° W. between the latitudes of 41° and 40°, than to remain idle, and thus increase the work to be performed in the ensuing summer. He had intended to visit van Diemen's Land, in order to determine whether or not it made a part of New Holland ; but ho remarks, '• as Captain Furneaux had now in a great measure cleared up that point, I could have no business tnere."* Before leaving New Zealand, he endeav- oured to benefit it as far as possible by sending two goats on shore, and by sowing or planting many seeds and root» of use- ful vegetables. The voyage to the eastward commenced on the 7th June. It was prosecuted till the 17th July, when, in latitude 39° 44', longitude 133° 32' W., and nearly in the middle between his own track to the north in 1769, and his return to the south in the same year. Cook, seeing no signs of land, steered north- easterly, with a view to explore the sea down to latitude 27® — *' a space," he says, " that had not been visited by any pre- ceding navigator that I knew of." On the 1st August he was near the situation assigned by Carteret to Pitcairn's Island ; but, failing in his hope of finding it, without a delay which the siykly state of his consort's crew rendered inexpe- dient, and being convinced there could be no continent be- tween the meridian of America and New Zealand, unless in a very high southern latitude, he turned his course towards Ota-i heite. ' "* It is to be regretted that Cook, in his reliance on Captain Furneaux, abandoned his design orperfionaliy investiguting this point : had he done «o, without over estimating his Bl(ill or sagacity, we may express our confldence thHt lie would have anticipated tlie important discovery, made by Messrs. Flinders and Hass in 17i)8, of the channel nr^med Bass's Strait, separating Van Diemen's Land (Voin Australia. An interevting account or this gallnnt expedition will be found in Flindera's Voyage to Terra AUi'traiis (London, 1814, 4io}, vol. i., p. 133-103. OOK. SECOND ClttCDMNAYIOATION OF COOK. 257 uneven and 18 northerly snge of fif- country, ho riod till the intercourse junction of season of ngitude of I 40°, than srformed in 1 Diemen's 3 a part of 'neaux had Id have no le endcav- Croats on Ola of use- 7th June. 39° 44', itween his e south in red north- itude 270 f any pre- k^ugust he Pitcairn's it a delay d inexpe- inent be- nless in a ards Ota-i Purneaux, ad he done (press our ftty, made ss's Stialt, )g account 9 to Terra Daybreak of the 1 1th revealed land in the south. It proved to be an island about two leagues in extent, and covered with wood, '* above which the cocoanut-trees showed their lofty hoads." It was reckoned to be in latitude 17° 24' S., and lon- gitude 141* 39' W., and received the name of Resolution. The same day another was discovered, and called Doubtful. One which was seen the next morning was entitled Furfteaux ; and the designation of that officer's snip, the Adventure, ivas given to a third descried in the morning of the 13th. " I must here observe," says Cook, "that among these low and half- drowned isles (which are numerous in this part of the ocean) M. Bougainville's discoveries cannot be known to that degree of accuracy which is necessary to distinguish them from others. We were obliged to have recourse to his chart for the latitudes and longitudes, as neither the one nor the other is mentioned in his narrative. ... He v^ry properly calls this cluster the Dangerous Archipelago. The smoothness of the sea sufficiently convinced us that we were surrounded by these isles, and how necessary it was to proceed with the ut- most caution, especially in the night."* At length, on the 16th August, he came in sight of Osna- burg Island or Maitea, when he apprized Captain rumeaux of his mtention to put into Oaitipiha Bay, near the southeast end of Otaheite, to get what refreshments he could before resu- ming his old station at Matavai. But in this attempt, which was made early next day, he barely escaped total shipwreck on the coral reefs, in presence of many of the natives, who, probably from ignorance of his danger, snowed not the slightest concern. When safely within the harbour, few of them in- quired after Tupia, but many for Mr. Banks, and others whom Uiey had known during the previous visit. The cause of their countryman's demise, as explained to them, was deemed quite satisfactory ; and, '* indeed," says Cook, *' it did not appear to me that it would have caused a moment's uneasiness in the breast of any one, had hie death been occasioned by any other means than by sickness." The captain's rigid system of policy, for the protection or recovery of stolen goods, was soon found to be as necesbary and as efficacious as on the former occasion. The vessels removed to Matavai on the 25th, by which * Voyage towards the South Pols, vol. i., p. 14S. Y 2 *■ 268 SECOND CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF COOK. S t Tupapow and Chief Mourner. tinie the crew of the Adventure had greatly recovered. The voyagers met with many acquaintances among the crowd who speedily thronged the decks ; and next day Cook visited Otoo, then sovereign of part of the island, whose friendship was essen- tial in obtaining a supply of provisions. Suitable presents were accordingly offered and accepted, and, in return, his majesty promised some hogs, but was loath to go on board, being, as he feaid, " mataou no te paupoue ;" that is, afraid of the guns. Indeed, all his actions showed timidity ; though he at last ventured to visit the ship, attended by a numerous train. A more touching interview took place with the mother of the regent Tootahah, who, seizing the commander by both hands, burst into tears, and told him his friend was dead. " I was so much affected with her behaviour," he writes, '» that it would have been impossible for me to refrain mingling my tears with hers, had not Otoo come and taken me from her." He afterward learned that Tootahah had fallen in battle, and that his remains, after being exposed on a tupapow or open I^ l8 tl COOK. SECOND CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF COOK. 259 red. The crowd who sited Otoo, was essen- presents etum, his on board, afraid of though he ous train, ler of the th hands, "I was ** that it fling my omner." ttle, and or open shed, where they were honoured with the customary rites of mourning, were deposited in the family marai at Oparree. The good understanding thus commenced was kept up by re- ciprocal acts of kindness and attention. The island monarch and his people were gratified by the music of the bagpipe, their favourite instrument, and by the dances of the seamen ; while the English were entertained with a dramatic play, or heava, a medley of dancing and comedy. All the fruits which the country produces they obtained abundantly, except that of the bread-tree, which was not then in season ; but owing to intestine wars and other circumstances, hogs and fowls were procured with difficulty — only twenty-four of the former hav- ing been received during a residence of seventeen days. On the 1st of September our navigator set sail for the Island of Huaheine, which he made the next day. Before landing, the king, his ancient friend Oree, sent to the ships the piece of pewter which had been left with him in July, 1769. Cook wished to go to this kind-hearted prince ; but I "was told, he says, '' that he would come to me ; which he ac- cordingly did, fell upon my neck and embraced me. This Avas by no means ceremonious ; the tears which trickled plen- tifully down his venerable cheeks sufficiently bespoke the language of his heart." During their short stay the English received every mark of friendship, and procured no fewer than 300 hogs, besides fowls and fruits. On the 7th Cook bade adieu to this gentle monarch, leaving with him a small copper- plate, with the inscription, ''Anchored here, his Britannic Majesty's Ships Resolution and Adventure, September, 1773." Before his departure, Captain Fyrneaux consented to take on board a young man named Omai, a native of a neighbouring island. In the opinion of Cook at tLJt time, " he was not a proper sample of the inhabitants of these happy islands, not having any advantage of birth, or acquired rank, nor being eminent in shape, figure, or complexion." The ships reached Ulietea the same evening, and spent the night in beating off and on the island, guided by the lights of the fishers on the reefs and shores. On the morning of the 8th they anchored in the harbour of Ohamaneno, and the natives immediately crowded around them, eager to barter hogs and fruit. The chief Oreo displayed a great affection for the Europeans, and gratified them with the performance of a heava. The scenes which most interested them in this rude 260 SECOND CIRCVIINAVIOATIOM OF COOK. ■ drama represented a theft, which was accomplished in so dex- terous a manner as clearly to indicate the genius of the peo- ple. Cook looked for the termination of the piece with some curiosity — anticipating the death, or at least hearty beating of the culprits ; but in tnis he was disappointed, both principal and accomplices escaping in triumph with their booty. At this place ne took on board a youth of about seventeen or eighteen years of age, named Oedidee or Mahine, a native of Bolabola, and nearly related to Opoony, the warlike sovereign of that island. The discoverers departed from Ulietea oh the 17th, and steered to the west, inclining to the south, that they might avoid the tracks of former voyagers, and get into the latitude of the islands discovered by Tasman and named Middleburgh and Amsterdam,* but now known as two of the principal of the Friendly or Tonga archipelago. On the 23d, in latitude 19° 18' S., longitude 168° 54' W., they fell in with two or three small islets, surrounded by breakers, like most of the low isles in this sea, and gave them the appellation of Hervey. On the 2d October they got abreast of Middleburgh (called by the inhabitants Eooa), where an immense crowd gave them welcome with loud shouts, thronged round the boats, in which they rowed towards the land, offered native cloth and pther articles in exchange for beads, and seemed more anxious to give than to receive. A chief conducted them to his dwelling, which was built on the shore, " at the head of a fine lawn, and under the sliade of some shaddock-trees, in a situation which was most delightful." Here they were entertained with songs, and invited to join in a cava feast ; but, says Cook, '' I was the only one who tasted it ; the manner of brewing it having quenched the thirst of every one else." The unceas- ing kindness of the people, who vied with each other in their endeavours to please, made our countrymen regret that the season of the year precluded a longer stay. On the 3d they weighed anchor, and bore down for Am- sterdam or Tongataboo, when they were met midway by some canoes. As they sailed along the coast, they observed the natives running on the shore, and displaying small white flags, which, being looked on as tokens of peace, were answered by hoisting a St. George's ensign. Cook landed on the 4th, and * See above, p. 100-109. )0K. SECOND CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF COOK. 261 in 80 dex- • the peo- with some beating of 1 principal ooty. At renteen or , native of sovereign 17th, and hey might he latitude iddleburgh dncipal of in latitude ith two or of the low if Hervey. I (called by Tave them s, in which and pther anxious to ) dwelling, fine lawn, i situation ained with Cook, " I jrewing it le unceas- er in their that the for Am- ly by some lerved the hite flags, swered by e 4th, and I was conducted over part of the country by a chief called At- tago. He was much surprised by the aspect of the island, and could have fancied himself transported into the most fer- tile plains of Europe. Not a spot of waste ground was to be seen — the roads took up the least possible space, the fences were not above four inches in breadth, and were often formed of some useful plants. " It was," he writes, •' everywhere the same ; change of place altered not the scene. Nature, assisted by a little art, nowhere appears in more splendour than at this isle. In these delightful walks we met numbers of people : some travelling down to the ships with their bur- dens of fruit ; others returning back empty. They all gave U3 the road, by turning either to the right or left, and sitting down or standing with their backs to the fences, till we had passed."* They showed neither distrust nor suspicion of their visiters, whom they permitted freely to ramble wherever curiosity or pleasure invited. In physical peculiarities, in language, and in many erts and customs, political and reli- gious, they bore a striking rcsiemblance to the Society Island- ers. As the period for prosecuting his researches in the high southern latitudes now approached, the commander judged it advisable to revisit New Zealand, where wood and water could be procured for the next portion of the voyage. The vessels accordingly quitted Amsterdam on the 7th October, and on the next day made the Pylstaart or Tropic-bird Island of Tasman, in latitude 22° 26' S., and longitude 175° 59' W. On the 21st they descried the land of New Zealand ; but, in consequence of baffling winds and dangerous gales, in one of which the Adventure was lost sight of, Cook did not reach the rendezvous in Queen Charlotte's Sound till the 3d Novem- ber. Here he remained more than three weeks without any tidings of his consort ; and henceforward, as they did not again meet, our attention must be confined to the solitary course of the Resolution. Notwithstanding the absence of their former attendant, the commander assures us that his rrew, far from being dejected, looked as cheerfully on their ex- pedition to the south "as if the Adventure, or even more ships, had been in company." According to Mr. Forster, however, as the expectation r>f meeting with new lands had * Voyage towards tbe South Pole, vol. i., p. SOI. 262 SECOND CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF COOK. become faint, a cruise to the south, once so full of promise, appeared no longer inviting. " If any thing," says nc, " al- leviated the dreariness of the prospect v\ritn a great part of our shipmates, it vfas the hope of completing the curcle round the South Pole, in a high latitude, during the next inhospitable summer, and of returning to England within the space of eight months."* This navigation was perhaps one of the dullest ever per- formed. The voyagers left New Zealand on the 26th Novem- ber, and steered to the south, inclining to the east, with a fa- vourable wind. On the evening of the 6th December they calculated themselves to be at the antipodes of London, f Ice was first seen on the 12th, in latitude 62° 10' S., longitude 172*' W., being 11° 30' farther south than that first met with in the preceding year ; and on the same day an antarctic pet- erel, gray albatrosses, and some other birds were observed. On the 14th several ice-islands and a quantity of loose ice occurred ; and these became more numerous as the course to the southeast by east was pursued. Next morning there ap- peared an immense field, through the partitions of which it was not deemed safe to venture into " a clear sea beyond," as the wind would not have permitted return. A stretch to the north, with some tacks, was therefore made, but not without very great risk from the floating islands. On the 22d they had attained a higher parallel than they had before reached, 67° 31' S., in longitude 142° 54' W. ; but next day, in a little lower latitude, another quantity of ice wholly obstructed the passage to the south. At this time the cold was most intense, and there was a strong gale at north, attended with snow and sleet, whicl;^ froze to the rigging as it fell, and made the ropes like wires. Advancing to the nprtheast, the ice-islands were found to increase in number, nearly a hundred of them being eeen at noon of the 24th, besides an immense quantity of smaU * Forster*8 Voyage, vol. i., p. 526. t " We are the first Europeans," says Mr. Forster, '* and, I believe I may add, the first human beings who have reached this point, where it is probable none will come after us. A common report prevails, indeed, in ungland, concerning Sir Francis Drake, who is said to have visited the antipodes, which the legend expresses, by ' his having passed under the middle arch of London Bridge :' but this is a mistake, aa his track lay along the coast of America, and probably originates lYom his having pas- sed tbeperioBci, or the point in 180° longitude, on the same circle of north latitude, on the coast of California."— Voyage, vol. i., p, 537. OOK. promise, he, " al- !at part of rcle round hospitable ce of eight ever per- th Novem- with a fa- mber they lon.t Ice , longitude It met with arctic pet- observed. ' loose ice ) course to there ap- f which it eyond," as stch to the lot without !d they had iched, 67° in a little ructed the )st intense, i snow and i the ropes lands were ^lem being ty of smaU , I believe I nt, where it ails, indeed, e visited tlie >d under the is track lay having pas- rcle of north SECOND CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF COOK. 209 pieces ; but, by taking advantage of every light air to drift alonz with them, a tolerably easy berth was obtained, in which, nearly in the same manner as during the voyage of the previous year, our navigators held their Christmas feast. They were fortunate at this time in having continual daylight and clear weather, for " had it been as foggy as on some of the prece- ding days, nothing less than a miracle," says Cook, '' could nave saved us from being dashed to pieces." Still the dan- gers of the situation were so great, that on the 26th, in lati- tude 66° 15', it was judged prudent to make another trip to- wards the north, and, by the 9th January, 1774, he found him- self in latitude 48° 17', in longitude 127° 10' W. At this period most of his crew were becoming diseased, though not seriously. " A general languor and sickly look were mani- fested in almost every face," says Mr. Forster, ** and the cap- tain himself was pale and lean, and had lost all appetite." On the 11th the course to the south was resumed, and, on the seventh day after, the voyagers were in latitude "61° 9' S., lon- gitude 116° 7' W. They crossed for the third time the an- tarctic circle on the 26th, and on the 30th reached the highest southern latitude which had been then attained by ai^ discov- erer, namely, 71° 10', in west longitude 106° 54'.* The obstacles which arrested Cook's farther progress, and the reasons which induced him to abandon any attempt in other directions, cannot be better stated than in his own words : '* At four o'clock in the morning we perceived the clouds, over the horizon to the south, to be of an unusual snow- white brightness, which, we knew, announced our approach to field-ice. Soon after it was seen from the topmast-head, and at eight o'clock we were close to its edge. It extended east and west, far beyond the reach of our sight Ninety-seven ice-hills were distinctly seen within the field, besides those on the outside ; many of them very large, and looking like a ridge of mountains, rising one above another till they were lost in the clouds. The outer or northern edge of this immense field was composed of loose or broken ice * Only one navijrator has penetrated beyond this point. On the 20th February, 1823, Captain Weddel reached the latitude of 74'' 15', in the lon- gitude of 34^ 16' 45" W. In this situation no land was visible, and only four ice-islands were in sight ; but the wind blowing fresh at south pre- vented his farther progress, and he was reluctantly constrained to return. — Weddel's Voyage towards the South Pole, p. 37. 1 If 264 SECOND CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF COOK. Ji I' , close packed together, so that it was not possible for any thing to enter it. This was about a mile broad, within which was solid ice in one continued compact body. It was rather low and flat (except the hills), but seemed to increase in height as you traced it to the south, in which direction it ex- tended beyond our sight. I will not say it was impossible anywhere to get farther to the south ; but the attempting it would have been a dangerous and rash enterprise, and what, I believe, no man in my situation would have thought of. It was, indeed, my opinion, as well as the opinion of most or board, that this ice extended quite to the pole, or perhaps 1'oined to some land, to which it had been fixed from the ear- iest time ; and that it is here, that is to the south of this parallel, where all the ice we find scattered up and down to the north is first formed, and afterward broken oflF by gales of wind or other causes, and brought to the north by the cur- rents, which we always found to set in that direction in the high latitudes. As we drew near this ice some penguins were heard, but none seen ; and but few other birds, or any other thing that could induce us to think any land was near. And yet I think there must be some to the south behind this ice ; but if theve is, it can aflford no better retreat for birds, or any other animals, than the ice itself, with which it must be whol- ly covered, I, who had ambition not only to go farther than any one had been before, but as far as it was possible for man to go, was not sorry at meeting with this interruption, as it, in some measure, relieved us, at least shortened the dangers and hardships inseparable from the navigation of the southern polar regions. Since, therefore, we could not proceed one inch farther to the south, no other reason need be assigned for my tacking and standing back to the north."* On the 4th February he found himself in latitude 66° 42' S., and longitude 99° 44' W. ; and though now convinced that there was no continent except in extremely high* lati- tudes, he was of opinion that " there remained, nevertheless, room for rery large islands m places wholly unexamined ; and that many of those which were formerly discovered are but imperfectly explored, and their situations are imperfectly known. For me," he continues, " at this time, to have quit- ted this sea, with a good ship expressly sent out on discov- i * Voyage towards the Stouth Fole, vol. i., p. 267, 268. ;ooK. SECOND CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF COOK. 265 ble for any /ithin which ; was rather increase in action it ex- I impossible :tempting it , and what, ught of. It of most or , or perhaps om the ear- )uth of this id down to by gales of by the cur- tion in the iguins were •r any other near. And id this ice ; irds, or any ist be whol- arther than )le for mart )tion, as it, le dangers le southern roceed one e assigned de 65° 42' convinced high'lati- vertheless, examined ; )vered are mperfcctly have quit- )n discov- 8. eriet , % healthy crew, and not in want either of stores or of provisions, would have been betraying, not only a wapt of perseverance, but of judgment, in supposing the South Pa- cific Ocean to have been so well explored that nothing re- mained to be done in it." He therefore resolved to procMd in search, first, of the land said to have been discovered by Juan Fernandez towards the end of the sixteenth century, then of Davis's Land or Easter Island of Roggewein ; and, finally, of the Australia del Espiritu Santo of Quiros.* Cook had for some time concealed from every person on board a dangerous obstruction of his bowels, and endeavoured to overcome it by taking hardly any sustenance; but this treatment aggravated rather than removed the malady, the symptoms of which at length, when he had reached a more northern latitude, were so alarming that his life was in danger. The disease fortunately abated after a week's confinement to his couch ; but still so great was his debility, that no one could doubt the urgency of hastening to a place of refresh- ment as the only chance of preserving his existence. He speaks of his own condition at this time very briefly. " I was now taken ill of the bilious colic, which was so violent as to confine me to my bed ; so that the management of the ship was left to Mr. Cooper, the first officer, who conducted her very much to my satisfaction. It was several days be- fore the most dangerous symptoms of my disorder were re- moved When I began to recover, a favourite dog belonging to Mr. Forster fell a sacrifice to my tender stomach ; and I could eat of this flesh, as well as broth made of it, when I could taste nothing else."t On the 26th February he was in latitude 37° 62' S., and west longitude 101° 10' ; and having now crossed his track to Otaheite in 1769, he was satisfied that the large and fertUe land, " richer than Peru," said to have been visited by Fernan- dez, could be no more than a small island, if, indeed, any such discovery was ever made. He then stood away to the north to get into the latitude of Easter Island, which had been unsuccessfully sought by Byron, Carteret, and Bougainville. On the mommg of the 11th of March, in latitude 27° 6' 30" S., longitude 109° 46' 20" W., land was descried from the * See above, p. 63 ; p. 112 and 132-125 ; and p. 83-85. t Voyage towards the South Pole, vol. i., p. S74. < 11 1 ■ i r ! t. \: 266 SECOND CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF COOK. mast-head, and by noon Cook had no doubt it waa that dis- covered by Edward Davis in 1687. *' The joy," says Forster, " which this fortunate event spread on every countenance is scarcely to be described. We had been a hundred and three days out of sight of land ; and the rigorous weather to the south, the fatigues of continual attendance during storms, or amid dangerous masses of ice, the sudden changes of climate, and the long continuance of a noxious diet, all together had emaciated and worn out our crew."* A landing was effected on the 14th, and the natives be- haved ill a peaceable manner, though expert and daring thieves ; they appeared to know the fatal powers of the mus- ket, which they regarded with much awe— arising, probably, from traditionary accounts of Roggewein's visit. The com- mander was, however, disappointed to find, that though there were several plantations of sweet potatoes, plantains, and su- ¥ur-canes, few places could afford less accommodation, here was no secure anchoring-ground, no wood, and only a scanty supply of fresh water of the most wretched quality ; even fish were so rare that none could be caught, at least with hook and Une ; while both land and sea birds were very scarce, and, except a few small fowls and some rats, supposed to be eaten by the natives, no animal food was to be had. In his opinion, nothing will ever induce ships to touch at this isl- and but the utmost distress. The inhabitants, whose num- bers he estimated at 600 or 700, resembled in many respects those of the isles towards the west, but had made less prog- ress in some of the arts, and were worse provided with huts and household utensils. Their affinity to the other tribes of Polynesia at the same time was so striking, " that," we are as- sured, " no one will doubt that they have had the same ori- gin." It was not observed that any man reached the stature of six feet ; *' so far are they from being giants, as one of the authors of Roggewein's voyage asserts." Only three or four canoes, very mean, and buih of many pieces sewed together with small line, were seen in the island. They had outrig- gers, m the manner so common in the South Sea, but were small, and by no means fit for distant navigation. Cook saw only two or three of the statues described by the Dutch, but some of his companions who travelled over the * Forster's Voyage, vol. !., p. 552". 't«^' ♦ COOK. SECOND CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF COOK. 267 Mraa that dis- says Fonter, mntenance is red and three eather to the ng storms, or 38 of climate, together had natives be- and daring I of the mus- ng,jmrobably, The com- though there ains, and su- ommodation. I, and only a lied quality; at least with s were very ts, supposed be had. In h at this isl- Mrhose num- any respects e less prog- :d with huts ler tribes of " we are as- e same ori- the stature one of the uee or four }d tc^ether lad outrig- , but were ibed by the 1 over the Monumants on Easttr Island * country observed many more. They were from fifteen to twenty-seven feet in height, and from six to nine in breadth over the shoulders ; and each had or its head a large cylindric block of a red colour, wrought perfectly round. The stone of which they were made was gray, and seemingly different from any naturally belonging to the island. The carving at the upper part, which conunonly represented a sort of human head and bust, was rude, but not altogether contemptible ; ia particular, the nose and chin were pretty fairly deUneated, while the ears were long beyond proportion ; and, in the bod- ies, there was hardly any resemblance to the human figure. Their magnitude was such as to make their erection a subject of perplexity, especially when it was considered how little the natives were acquainted with the mechanical powers. In the opinion of Cook, the present inhabitants had no concern in rearing them, as even the foundations of some were carelessly suffered to fall into ruin. Besides these monuments of an- tiquity, many little heaps of stones were piled up along the H 268 SECOND CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF COOK. ti ^^ I coast, and some of the savages possessed human figures carved with considerable neatness from narrow pieces of wood about two feet long. Of these images, the native of Bolabola, Oe- didee, purchased several, conceiving they would be much val- ued in his own country, the workmansbap of which they sur- passed. The navigators sailed thence on the 16th March, and, fa- voured by a pleasant breeze, steered to the northwest to make the Islands Las Marquesas, which had not been visited since their discovery in 1595. Shortly after putting to sea, the commander was afflicted with a recurrence of his bilious disorder ; ' at its attack was less violent than formerly. On the 6th c, ipril, in latitude 9° 26' S., and longitude 138° 14' W., an island was seen, and named Hood, in honour of the gentleman who first perceived it. Two hours after another appeared ; and when a third was discerned the next morning, every one was satisfied that the cluster was that explored by Mendana.* Cook coasted the southeastern shore of La Dominica, and, passing through the channel which divides it from Santa Christina, ran along that island in search of the port Madre de Dios of his Spanish predecessor, in the entrance of which he anchored on the 7th. Ten or twelve canoes imme- diately approached from the shore, but some address was re- quired to get them alongside of the vessel. At length, a few presents brought one of them under the quarter-gallery, when the rest followed ; and after exchanging bread-fruit and fish for nails, they retired peaceably. Each canoe was observed to have a heap of stones on its bow, and every man had a sling tied round his hand. Many more appeared next morn- ing, bringing similar provisions and one pig, which were bar- tered as before ; but not with perfect honesty, till a musket- ball was fired over the head of one man whose unfairness was conspicuous. A great many of the natives were at this time on board, and the commander, who was then in one of the boats, having been informed of the theft of an iron stanchion, gave orders to fire over the canoe in which the plunderer was making off, but not to kill any one. In the tumult which en- sued, his commands, unfortunately, were not distinctly heard, and the depredator was shot dead at the third discharge^ The iron was instantly thrown overboard, and the two other per- ■ * 8m abov*, p. 68, 69. COOK. SECOND CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF COOK. 269 figures carved f wood about Bolabola, Oe- be much val- lich they sur- irch, and, fa- lorthwest to been visited tting to sea, )f his bilious rmerly. On ide 138° 14' onour of the ifter another Bxt morning, explored by bore of La :h divides it h of the port entrance of noes imme- ess was re- ngth, a few Uery, when uit and fish IS observed man had a lext morn- were bar- a musket- imess was t this time )ne of the stanchion, iderer was which en- itly heard, iischarge» other per- sons in the skiff leaped into the sea, though in a short time they clambered again into their vessel. " One of them," says Cook, " a man grown, sat baling the blood and water out of the canoe in a kind of hysteric laugh ; the other, a youth about fourteen or fifteen years of age, looked on the deceased with a serious and dejected countenance ; we had afterward reason to believe he was his son." This unhappy event was followed by the precipitate retreat of all the savages. Their fears v/ere, however, after a short space, allayed, and for a time barter was carried on with them advantageously — ^vari- ous fruits, pigs, and fowls being obtained on exceedingly rea- sonable terms, till the indiscretion of i^ome gentlemen intro- duced new articles of trade, especially red feathers, collected at the Island of Amsterdam. This effectually put an end to the intercourse ; nails and all other things were despised in comparison ; and, in the absence of a sufficient stock of feath- ers, there remained no alternative but to quit the country. This was a serious mortification to the crew, who had now been nineteen weeks at sea, and confined all that time to salt diet. So serviceable, however, had the many antiscorbutic articles proved, that at this period there was scarcely one sick person in the ship. On the afternoon of the 11th Cook departed from Resolu- tion Bay, as he named the harbour where he had lain, and steered nearly southwest, with a fine wind, till the morning of the 17th, when he fell in with the most easterly of the King George^s Islands of Byron, and ascertained its native appella- tion to be Tiookea. Another of the same group was seen the next day ; and on the 19th four small and half-overfiowed isl- ands were observed, and named after Sir Hugh Palliser. The succeeding evening, a great swell rolling from the south, con- vinced him that he was now clear of those low lands ; on which account, and being favoured by a strong gale, he bore down for Otaheite. A pleasant voyage of little more than a day brought them within view of that island, and spread general joy on board. " The forests on the mountains," says Mr. Forster, " were all clad in fresh foliage, and glowed in many variegated hues. . . The plains shone forth in the greatest luxuriance of colours, the brightest teints of verdure being profusely lavished upon their fertile groves ; in short, the whole called to our mind the description of Calypso's enchanted island." The Resolu* Z2 i' I\ ' 270 SECOND CIRCUMNAYIOATION OF COOK. f tion anchored in Matavai Bay on the 22d ; and no sooner waa her arrival known, than the friendly natives visited their old acquaintances with every demonstration of gladness. Provis* ions had become very plentiful during the eighteen months* absence of the discoverers, and the desire to possess the red feathers, which had been obtained at the Tonga Islands, rose almost to a phrensy among the people. The improvement in the general state of the country surprised even those who had thought most highly of its capabilities, and induced Cook to protract his stay much longer than he originally intended. Hogs were now abundant, fruits of every kind equally so, and indus- try had displayed itself in the erection of habitations and the construction of an immense number of canoes. Many of the latter were destined for an expedition against Eimeo, which had thrown off the yoke of Otaheite ; and our countrymen had an opportunity of seeing a grand naval review of the larger part of the island-forces. The war-canoes, each from fifty to ninety feet long, and double or joined together by strong transr verse beams, amounted to 160 ; and of smaller craft, designed, it was supposed, to serve as transports or victuallers, there were 170 ; in all 330 vi^ssels, carrying, by Cook's calculation, 7760 men, warriors and rowers. The former wore vast quan- tities of cloth, turbans, breastplates, and helmets ; and their weapons were clubs, spears, and stones. Having executed those repairs on his vessel which the tem- pestuous weather of the high southern latitudes had rendered necessary, he again set sail from Otaheite on the 14th of May. As the ship was clearing the bay, one of the gunner's mates, who had determined to remain in the island, slipped overboard with the intention of swimming to the shore, but was instantly taken up. " When," says the commander, " I considered this man's sitl^ation in life, I did not think the resolution he had taken so extraordinary as it may at first appear. . . . I never learned that he had either friends or connexions to confine him to any particular part of the world ; all nations were alike to him. Where, then, could such a man be more happy, than at one of these isles, where, in one of the finest climates in the world, he could enjoy, not only the necessaries, but the luxuries of life, in ease and plenty '!"* * Voyage towards the South Pole, vol. 1., p. 349. Theit reflections may ptrhapa recall lo the recolleetlon of the reader a pasMge In The Mtmi:— tl SOX. 8SC0ND CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF COOK. 271 sooner wa* d their old 8. Provis- m months* :s8 the red lands, rose Jvement in le who had d Cook to led. Hogs and indus- ns and the any of the leo, which rymen had the larger 3m fifty to ong transr designed, lers, there ilculation, ^ast quan- and their the tem- rendered 1 of May. 's mates, ►verboard instantly msidered iution he xions to nations be more he finest essaries. efleetiona e InTlkr On the afternoon of the next day the English anchored at Huaheine, where they found the old chief Oree as kind as ever. When paying him a farewell-visit, Cook told him that they would meet no more ; on which he burst into tears, and said, " Let your sons come ; we will treat them well." The commander esteemed him as "a good man, in the utmost sense of the word," but surrounded by persons of less worth, some of whom took advantage of his old age, and, encouraged by the carelessness of many of our voyagers, committed acts of violence, " which no man at Otaheite ever durst attempt." Leaving this on the 23d, a few hours brought the vessel to Ulietea, where she anchored on the following morning. Cook speaks with great feeling of the hospitable manner in which he was treated at this island, more especially by Oreo and his family. At parting, he writes, "the chief, his wife, and daughter, but especially the two latter, scarcely ever ceased weeping His last request was for me to return : when he saw he could not obtain that promise, he asked the name of my marai (burying-place). As strange a question as this was, I hesitated not a moment to tell him Stepney, the parish in which I live when in London. I was made to repeat It several times over till they could pronounce it ; then, * Step* ney, marai no TootCy was echoed through a hundred mouths at once. I afterward found the same question had been put to Mr. Forster by a man on shore ; but he gave a different, and indeed more proper answer, by saying, no man who used the sea could say where he should be buried. What greater proof could we have of these people esteeming us as friends, than their wishing lo remember us even beyond the period of our lives 1 They had been repeatedly told that we should see them no more ; they then wanted to know where we were to " Men without country, who, too long estranged, Had found no native home, or found it changed, And, half uncivilized, preferr'd the cave Of some soft savage to the uncertain wave — The gushing fVuits that nature gave untill'd : The wood without a path but where they wiU'd; The £.^:d o*er which promiecuous Plenty pour'd Her bom ; the equal land without a lord ; The earth, whose mine was on its flice, unsold, The glowing sun and produce all Us gold.'* Byrom's WorKs, vol. xiv., p. IM. S72 SECOND CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF COOK. mingle with our parent dust."* He quitted Ulietea on the 6th June, leaving Oedidee behind him, to their mutual regret. At one time he intended to visit Bolabola, but this design was abandoned for want of leisure ; and " taking a final leave of these happy isles, on which benevolent Nature has spread her luxuriant sweets with a lavish hand," he directed his course to the west. On the next morning he fell in with the Howe Island of Wallis, and following a track a little more to the south, in ten days he found anoth(^r insular reef, which he named after Lord Palmerston. On the 20th he saw one that was inhabited, and from the indomitable fierceness of the peo- ple, through which even his life was in danger, denominated it Savage. It lies in latitude 19° 1' S., longitude 169° 37' W., is about eleven leagues in compass, of a circular form, and has deep water close to its shores. Favoured by a gentle trade*wifld, the Resolution pursued her route to the south- west, and passing, on the 25th, through various islets, several of which were connected by breakers or reefs of rocks, an- chored on the succeeding day about a mile from the northern shore of Annamooka or Rotterdam, one of the Friendly or Tonga group. Here the gallant officer experienced no small trouble from the dishonesty of the natives, which he was obliged to check by prompt and severe measures — seizing some of their canoes, and firing small shot at one of the most reso- lute of the culprits, who, besides trifling articles, had pos- sessed themselves of two muskets. These were forthwith given up, and mutual good feelings restored. The produc- tions of this place were found to be the eame ae those of Eooa or Amsterdam ; but hogs and fowls, with some kinds of fruit, were not so plentiful : there seemed also to be more waste land, and the people generally were poorer. He departed from Annamooka 6n the 29th, and steered to the southwest, passing between two islands of the same group, of which the native titles are Kao and Tofooa. Continuing his course to the west, on the first July he fell in with an island about a league in length and half that extent in width, situated in latitude 19° 48' S., and longitude 178° 2' W. He named it Turtle Isl- and, and its few inhabitants, though armed with clubs and spears, fled at the approach of a boat. For thirteen days the Resolution held on her westerly track, foil wej hea the moi see the Gra Vayage towards ttie SouHi Pole, vol. i., p. 373, OK. on the 5th regret, his design final leave las spread rected his n with the ]e more to , which he V one that )f the peo- nominatcd 169° 37' ular form, y a gentle ;he south- ts, several rocks, an- i northern riendly or no small he was sing some lost reso- had pos- forthwith produc- H of Eooa of fruit, >re waste rted from passing native he west, ague in ude 19° irtle Isl- ubs and ly track, e SECOND CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF COOK. 273 followed by strong and steady gales. On the 16th July the weather changed, the sky became fog^, the wind blew in heavy squalls, and was attended with ram, signs which, withft. the tropics, generally indicate the neighbourhood of some mountainous country. On the same afternoon high land was seen bearing southwest, and '< no one doubted that this was the Australia del Espiritu Santo of Quiros'* — L'Archipel deo Grandes Cyclades of Bougainville.^ Cook sailed round the north end of the He Aurore of his French predecec'^ir ; and during the 18th continued to ply between it and L'Isle des L^preur. On the 20th he stretched across to He de la Pen- tecote, and passing another called by the natives Ambrym, anchored the next day on the northeast side of an island, of which he discovered the name to be MallicoUo.f The natives were evidently of a race in every respect different from the inhabitants of any of the countries he had yet visited. " They were," says he, " the most ugly, ill-proportioned people I ever saw ;" their stature was diminutive ; they had " flat faces and monkey countenances ;'* their complexion was very dark, and their hair short and curly. But few women were seen, and these had their heads, shoulders, and faces painted of a red colour. The language spoken was distinct from that of the other South Sea Islands : " Of eighty words," writes Cook, " which Mr. Forster collected, hardly one bears any afHnity to the tongue of any other place I had ever been at.'* From hence, on the 23d, he proceeded towards the south, inclining east- ward, till, having passed Ambrym, Paoom, Apee, Monument, Three Hills, Shepherd's, Montagu, Hinchinbrook, and Sand- wich Islands, he anchored ou :he 3d of August on the south- east side of Erromango. The treachery of the natives led to a skirmish , in which some of them lost their lives ; and the following evening he sailed for the neighbouring Island of Tanna, where he found an anchorage on the 5th. The next day the ship was moored close to the shore, so as to afford to the landirig-piace and to the whole harbour the protection of her artillery. Sonoe thousands of the inhabitants were drawn up on the beach, evidently with hostile intentions ; but the dis- ♦ See above, p. 188-190. t "Some of our people," it is added, " pronounce it Manicolo orMan> icola."— Voyage towards the South Pole, vol. H., p. 39. There can be no donbt that it ie the same country of v/hich Uuiros received tidings finom tha chief or Taumaoo. 8ee above, p. 83. 274 SECOND CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF COOK. J ( If. , 11 f III --•rSrrA^: Man of the Island of Tanna. charge of a few guns speedily dispersed them, and the voyagers, though watched with strict jealousy, were allowed to explore the country in peace. The natives were considered as a distinct race from tjjose of Mallicollo or of Erromango ; they were of the middle size, rather slender, nimble and active, and hr* */- ing for the most part good features and pleasing countenances. They were found to possess tw^ languages ; the one, peculiar, it was understood, to themselves and to the inhabitants of Er- romango and Annatom, the other the same with that of the Tonga group. Their complexion was very dtrk, their hair for the most part black or brown, of considerable length, and crisp and curly. " They separate it," we are told, " into small locks, which they woold or cue round with the rind of a slender plant, down to about an inch of the ends ; and as the hair grows, the woolding is continued. Each of these cuen or the cro I 30K. SECOND CIRCUMNAVIGATION OP COOK. 275 voyagers, plore the I distinct ley were and hw- enances. peculiar, sofEr- t of the eir hair gth, and " into ind of a d as the se cueH or locks is somewhat thicker than common whip-cord ; and they look like a parcel of small strings hanging down from the crown of their heads."* They were armed with clubs, spears or darts, bows and arrows, and staves, and wore bracelets of marine shells or cocoanuts, ear-rings of tortoise-shell, neck- laces and amulets of a greenish stone. Haying taken in a large supply of wood and water. Cook made sail on the 20th with a fresh breeze, and stretched to the south ; but, seeing no more land in that direction, he altered his course and steered north northwest along the eastern shores of Tanna, Erromango, Sandwich, and MalTicollo. The night of the 23d found him in Bougainville's Passage ; and on the 26th he entered a large and spacious harbour, which he was convinced was that named by Quiros San Felipe y Santiago.! The port of La Vera Cruz was recognised in the anchorage at J the head of the bay, one of the two rivers mentioned by the Spaniards was visited, " and, if we were not deceived," says Cook, *' we saw the other An uncommonly lux- uriant vegetation was everywhere to be seen ; the sides of the hills were checkered with plantations, and every valley watered by a stream. The columns of smoke we saw by day, and the fires by night all over the country, led us to believe that it is well inhabited and very fertile." By the 31st he had circumnavigated the island, which proved to be the largest and most western of the cluster ; it was sixty leagues in cir- cuit, and the name of Tierra del Espiritu Santo was given to this, " the only remains of Quiros's continent." The survey being now completed, the group was found to extend from lat- itude 14° 29' to 20° 4' S., and from longitude 166° 41' to 170° 21' E., 125 leagues in the direction of north northwest half west, and south southeast half east. " As, besides as- certaining the extent and situation of these islands," he re- marks, "we added to them several new ones, and explored the whole, I think we have obtained the right to name them, and shall in future distinguish them by the name of the New Hebrides, "t Having spent more than forty days in examining this acchi-> pelago, he made sail from it on the 1st of September^ and with a steady wind stood to the southwest. On the 4th h^t * Voyage towards tlie South Pole, vol. u., p. 78. t See above, p. 83, 84. t Voyage towards the ijouth Pole, vol. ii., p. 93, 94, 96. ^ 276 SECOND CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF COOK. ei I ^ came in sight of an extensive coast beset with reefs, on which the sea broke with great violence. A passage through this dangerous barrier having been discovered, he came to anchor on we fith, when his ship was immediately surrounded by a great number of natives in sixteen or eighteen canoes. They were of a peaceable and friendly disposition, and offered no m)position to a landing, which was effected in the afternoon. The country much resembled some parts of New Holland ; the hills and uplands were rocky, and mcapable of cultivation ; the thin soil which covered them being scorched and burnt ; and, " indeed," we are informed, " were it not for some fertile spots on the plains, and a few on the sides of the mountains, the whole country might be called a dreary waste.'' The na- tives were robust and well made, in colour nearly approaching those of Tanna, but surpassing them in stature, and having finer features and more agreeable countenances. Their lan- guage appeared to have many words in common with that used in New Zealand, in the Tonga Islands, and in Tanna. In affability and honesty, they excelled the people of any place yet visited. On the 13th Cook quitted his anchorage, and for two days sailed to the northwest, when, finding a termination to the land in that direction, and a reef extending as far as the e/e could reach, he altered his course to the southeast, and again came in sight of the coast on the 17th. He ran rapidly alonff it, and on the 23d reached its southeastern extremity, which was called Queen Charlotte's Foreland. In attempting to get round this point, some islands were discovered stretch- ing in the same direction as the mainland ; the largest re- ceived the name of Isle of Pines, while the designation of Botany was conferred upon one on which a party landed. The whole ot this survey was attended with the greatest danger ; and, considering the vast extent of sea yet to be investigated, the state of his vessel and her crew, and the near approach of summer, our navigator, to use his own ex- pression, was obliged, ** as it were by necessity, /or the first time, to leave a coast he had discovered before it was fully explored." He gave it the appellation of New Caledonia, and fixed its position between latitude 19° 37' and 22° 30' S., and west longitude 163° 37' and 167° 14'. With the ex- ception of New Zealand, it exceeds in size all the islands of th( le£ hi! lal an of til w d e t i OOK. 9, on which trough this ) to anchor inded by a »e8. They offered no afternoon. Holland; ultivation ; md burnt ; ome fertile nountains, The na- )proaching nd having rheir lan- with that in Tanna. any place two days Dn to the 8 the e/e ind af ain dly along which ipting to stretch- rgest re- ition of landed, greatest bt to be and the own ex- the first as fully edonia, 30' S., the ex- inds of SECOND CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF COOK. 277 Man of New Zealand. the Austral Ocean, extending in length about eighty-seven leagues, though nowhere more than ten in breadth.* He lost sight of land on the 1st of October, and pursued his course to the south till the morning of the 10th, when, in latitude 29° 2' 30" S., longitude 168° 16' E., he discovered an island to which the name of Norfolk was applied. It was of considerable height and about five leagues in circuit, fer- tile and luxuriantly wooded, but uninhabited, and our voyagers were, perhaps, the first that ever set foot upon its shores. On the 17th they came in sight of New Zealand, and could distinguish the summit of Mount Egmont, "covered with everlasting snow." The next day they anchored in Queen Charlotte's Sound, for the third time, nearly eleven months * Voyage towards the South Pole, vol. ii., p. 103-145. Forster's Voy- age, vol. ii., p. 377-442. Aa y i 278 SECOND CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF COOK. after their former visit. Immediately on landing ihey looked for a bottle, containing a memorandum which had been left for Captain Furneaux. It was removed, and circumstances soon occurred which tiiowed that the Adventure had been here ; while, from conversing with the natives, of whom only a few appeared, and those in a state of unusual timidity, it waa inferred that some calamity had befallen her crew. On the 10th of November Cook departed from New Zea- land, and with all sails set steered south by east, to get into the latitude of 64° or 55° S., with the view of crossing the Pacific nearly in these parallels, and thus exploring those parts left unnavigated in the previous summer. On the 27th he was in latitude 55° 6' and longitude 138° 56' W., when, abandoning all hope of finding land, he determined to steer directly for the western mouth of the Straits of Magellan, which he reached on the 18th of December. With the ex- ception of that achieved by his colleague, of which he was then ignorant, this was the first run directly across the Pacific in a high southern latitude. "And I must observe," he writes, •' that I never made a passage anywhere of such length, or even much shorter, where so few interesting circumstance-^ occurred ; for, if I except the variation of the compass, I know of nothing else worth notice. ... I have now done with the Southern Pacific Ocean, and flatter myself that no one will think that I have left it unexplored ; or that more could have been done in one voyage, towards obtaining that end, than has been done in this."* The southern shores of Tierra del Fuego and the Strait of Le Maire being still very imperfectly known, he now resolved to survey them. On the 20th he anchored in a large harbour, which received the name of Christmas, from his keeping that festival there* *' Roast and boiled geese," he remarks, "and goose-pie, was a treat little known to us, and we had yet some Madeira wine left ; so that our friends in England did not perhaps celebrate the day more cheerfully than we did." Cape Horn was doubled on the 29th, and two days after the Resolution anchored off Staten Land. Haying explored those dreary regions. Cook proceeded to examine the sou hern part of the Atlantic, in search of an extensive country, laid down in Mr. Dalrymple's chart of the * Voyage towards the South Pole, vol. ii., p. 170, 171. l ;ooK, hey looked I been left umstances had been ivhom only iity, it was New Zea- o get into ossing the ring those n the 27th W., when, d to steer Magellan, th the ei- h he was the Pacific erve," he ich length, amstance.^ ompass, I now done that no lat more ming that rait of Le solved to larbour, )ing that is, " and yet some did not ^e did." after the 3eded to h of an t of th© SECOND CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF COOK. 279 ocean between Africa and America. This new enterprise commenced on the 3d January, 1775. On the 6th he found himself in latitude 58° 9' S., longitude 53° 14' W., nearly in the situation assigned to the southwestern point of the Gulf of St. Sebastian in this supposed shore. Perceiving no sign of land, he altered his course to the north, looking out for the coast discovered by La Roche in 1675,* and revisited by the Spanish ship Leon in 1756. On the 12th, in latitude 54° 28 S., longitude 42° 8' W., nearly three degrees east of the northeastern point of the fancied gulf, he experienced a swel from east southeast, which he deemed sufficient proof that nc considerable land existed in that direction. On the 14th a small rocky islet was seen, and the next day a more exten- sive region presented itself at the distance of eight leagues. It was covered with snow, and offered several bays or inlets, in which large masses of ice were observed. He landed on the 17th, and, displaying the ship's colours amid a discharge of small arms, took possession of the island by the title of New South Georgia. It was found to be about seventy leagues in circuit, but utterly desolate, covered with frozen snow, and without a stream of water. Quitting this ''poor apology for a continent," on the 25th he stood to the southeast, and on the 27th had attained the lat- itude of 60° S., where he met with a long hollow swell from the west — a decisive sign of an open sea in that direction. Four days later land was discovered at the distance of three or four miles ; it proved to be three rocky islets, and over the outermost there appeared " an elevated shore, whose lofty snow-clad summits were seen above the clouds." A coast of the same nature, which was shortly after perceived still farther to the south, received the appellation of Southern Thule, and was considered to be in latitude 59° 13' 30" S., longitude 27° 45' W. On the next morning a new territory was descried to the north, and other portions were observed * See above, p. 111. It has been already incidentally stated (p. 179, note) that tlie French navigator, Duperrey, is of opinion that La Roche was anticipated in his discovery by Americo Vespucci ; but this hypothe- sis seems more unfounded even than that stated by Bougainville. With much more probability says Don M. F. de Navarrete, " Esta tierra pudo ser alguna de las islas de Tristan de Acuna, de Diego Alvarez 6 la de Gouhs."— Coleccion de Viages y Descubrimientos (Sladrid, 1889), vol. iii., p. 278, nets. ^, IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) k // 1.0 i 1.1 Itllli 125 Li 128 mmm22 U£ |2.0 Ui lis lit L25 i 1.4 6" I 1.6 HiotografJiic Sciences Corporation 33 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14S80 (716) •72-4503 ^\ iV 4 ^ <^ 4^ <^, "^"^^ -^^ > /I^> i^\^ ^E^ ^ f n' ■ f i: \\ '-'1 'i' 280 SECOND CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF COOK. on succeeding days. Cook gave to his discovery the name of Sandwich Land, though he was uncertain whether the whole were a group of islands or the point of a continent ; *' for I firmly believe," he says, " that there is a tract of land near the pole, which is the source of most of the ice that is spread over this vast Southern Ocean." He was anxious to clear up this question ; but he felt that he could not justify himself in now encountering the hazards of thick fogs, snow- storms, intense cold, islands or mountains of ice, a sea un- known and almost unnavigable, and risking all that he had done for the sake of exploring so dreary a country, " which, when discovered, would have answered no end whatever, or been of the least use either to navigation or geography."* The condition of his> ship and company, after their lengthened voyage, almost precluded the hope of success, even had the inducement been greater. On the 6th February, accordingly, he made sail towards the east, in order to renew his search for the Cape de la Circon- cision. He held on in the same direction till the 22d of February, when he found that he had run down thirteen de- crees of longitude in the very latitude assigned to Bouvet's discovery, and had crossed his own track of 1772. Being now only about forty miles from his route to the south when he departed from Table Bay, he considered it unnecessary to proceed any farther eastward, as he had already satisfied him- self in that quarter. " Having now," he says, " run over the f)lace where the land was supposed to lie, without seeing the east signs of any, it was no longer to be doubted that the ice- islands had deceived M. Bouvet ;"t and he accordingly deter- * Modem discovery has shown that Sandwich Land is a claster of ■mall islands. ,. t Voyage towards the South Pole, vol. ii., p. 238. The opinion here expressed by Cook, tho\igh not unopposed by some French writers, re- ceived the general sanction of geographers ; but, after a lapse of more than thirty years, the cape seen by Bouvet was again accidentally dis* covered. On the 6ili October, 1808, two English whalers, in latitude 53<3 58' S., and about the longitude of 3° 55' E., came in sight of an island about Ave leagues in length. It wait covered with snow and surrounded by ice,. and no doubt could be entertained of its identity with Cape de la Circoncision.— 'lurney, Chron. Hist. Discov., vol. v., p. 35-37. Cook's nearest approach to it was on the 17th February, 1773, in the latitude of &4° 20' S., and longitude of 6° 33' E., when he " had a prodigious high sea fVom the south, which assured us no land was near in that direc- tion."— Voyt^gt, p. 235. In fact, at this time Bou vet's discovery lay to the northward. It may be remarked that on another occasion Cook was COOK. SECOND CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF COOK. 281 very the name 1 whether the ontinent ; " for ct of land near le ice that is vas anxious to uld not justify ck fogs, snow- ice, a sea un- lU that he had antry, "which, i whatever, or : geography."* leir lengthened , even had the sail towards the e de la Circon- :ill the 22d of m thirteen de- ed to Bouvet's 1772. Being he south when unnecessary to satisfied him- " run over the out seeing the ed that the ice- rdingly deter- |d is a cluster of ^he opinion here inch writers, ra- ja lapse of more accidentally dis- s, in latitude 530 light of an island , and surrounded with Cape de la .35-37. Coolc's lin the latitude of Iprodigious high \r in that direc- hscovery lay to ksion Cook was companions and latitude 3S° 38' S. . / mined to yield to the general wish into port as soon as possible. From lantuae aa- aw »., m longitude 23° 37' E., on 13th March, he steered for the Cape of Good Hope, which he made after a voyage of eight days. Here he found a letter from his colleague, who had reached this colony about a year before. It cleared up the mystery which had perplexed Cook on his last visit to New Zealand, by acquainting him that a boat's crew, ten in number, had been massacred at Queen Charlotte's Sound by the savages, who, not content with an indiscriminate butchery, had feasted on the mangled remains of theit victims. After this unfortu- nate calamity, Captain Furneaux, despairing to meet his con- sort, ran eastward across the Pacific,* and, doubling Cape Horn, reached Table Bay on the 19th March, 1774. The anchorage at the Cape may be regarded as the termi- nation of Cook's second voyage, during which, reckoning from his departure to his return to this place, he had sailed over no less than 20,000 leagues — an extent nearly equal to thrice the equatorial circumference of the earth. In this navi- gation only four men had been lost out of the whole company, and but one of them by sickness — a proportion considerably below that shown by the bills of mortality in Europe. Many, indeed, were weakly, and all, it may well be imagined, in need of refreshment ; but only three required to be sent on shore in the vicinity of land in the South Atlantic Ocean without perceiving any sii^na of its existence. On the 17th of January, 1773, he was in lati- tude 670 15' S., and longitude 39° 35 E., not far to the southeast of En- derby's Land, discovered on the 27th February, 1831, by Captain Biscoe, in the brig Tula, in latitude 65° 57' S., and longitude 47° 20' E. Eight days previous to hia discovery, Captain Biscoe informs us that he " crossed Cook's track in 1773. and found the fleld-ice precisely in the position in which he left it."— Journal of the Royal Geographical Society, vol. iii., p. 108. Bulletin de la Soci6t6 de Gfeographie, tome xx., No. cxxiv. (Aoiit, 18:<3), p. 71.— Nouvelles Annates des Voyages, tome xxix., p. 303. * During this navigation, he narrowly missed seeing the islands called South Shetland (seen by Dirck Gherritz in 1559, rediscovered in 1818 by Mr. William Smith, in the brig William, and flfleen months af- terward by the U. S. brig Hersilia. See Voyages by Edmund Fanning, New- York, 1833, ii. 42S-434), and South Orkneys. " He passed," says Captain Weddel, " within forty-five miles of the east end of Shetland, and seventy-five miles of the South Orkneys : hence twenty miles, we may presume, of a more southerly course would have given us a knowl- edge of South ShetlaMd flfly years ago."— Voyage towards the South Pole In 1822-24, p. 28. See Bulletin de la Soci^te de Geographic, tome xvii., p. 58. A A 2 ^> h • ( 282 SECOND CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF COOK. for the recovery of health, and the rest, by an improvemeut in diet, speedily regained their usual strength. Almost all the sails and tackling of the Resolution were v/om out, though the s'tanding rigging was still of service. " In all this great run," he states, " which had been made in all latitudes between 0° and 71**, we sprung neither lowmasts, topmast, lower nor top- sail yard, nor so much as broke a lower or topmast shroud ; which, with the great care and abilities of my officers, must be owing to the good properties of our ship." He left the Cape on the 27th of April, and on the 30th of July, 1775, an- chored at Spithead, having been absent fron> England three years and eighteen days. The design of the voyage now completed was, in vastness and grandeur, without a parallel in the history of maritime en- terprise ; and never, perhaps, had any expedition been con- ducted with greater skill, perseverance, or success. Cook was received with every mark of approbation and honour ; he was raised to the rank of post-captain, by a commission dated the 9th of August, and three days thereafter he was named cap- tain in Greenwich Hospital — an appointment which afforded him the means of spending the rest of his days in honourable and easy retirement. In February, 1776, he was unanimously elected a Fellow of the Royal Society ; and on the 7th March, the evening of his admission, a communication was read, in which he detailed the means he had employed to preserve the health of his crew in their long and perilous navigation.* * Phil. Trans., vol. Ixvi., p. 402, et seq. In addition to a liberal use of the various antiscorbutics Airnished by the navy and ▼ictualling boards, (see above, p. 247), Cook had recourse to various other arrangennents, which he thus details : — " The crew were at three watches, except upon some extraordinary occasions. By «. this means they were not so much exposed to the weather as if they had been at watch and watch ; and they had generally dry clothes to shift themselves when they happened to get wet. Care was also taken to expose them as little as possible. Proper methods were employed to keep their persons, hammocks, bedding, clothes, dec, constantly clean and dry. Equal pains were taken to keep the ship clean and dry between decks. Once or twice a week she was aired with flres, and when this could not be done, she was smoked with gun- powder, moistened with vinegar or water. I had also flr«quently a Are made in an iron pot at the bottom of the well, which greatly purified the air in the lower parts of the ship. To this and cleanliness, as well In the ship as among the people, too great attention cannot be paid. The least neglect occasions a putrid offensive smell below, which nothing but fires will remove : and if these be not used in time, those amelli wiU be attended with baa consequences. it. COOK. SECOND CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF COOK. 283 nprovemeut in Llmost all the )ut, though the [lis great run," Bs between 0° lower nor top- pmast shroud ; officers, must He left the uly, 1775, an- England three as, in vastness f maritime en- ion been con- iccess. Cook id honour ; he imission dated T&a named cap- vhich afforded in honourable s unanimously the 7th March, 1 was read, in o preserve the } navigation.* a liberal use of ctualling boards, r arrangements, le extraordinary exposed to the y had generally get wet. Care [Proper methods g, clothes, &c., keep the ship she was aired oked with gun- uently a Are tly purified the less, as well in be paid. The ich nothing but •mellawiU be For this most valuable and important essay, the council awarded to him the Copley Medal ; and on the occasion of its delivery, the president. Sir John Prhigle, delivered a discourse highly encomiastic of the great discoverer : — " If," concluded the worthy baronet," Rome decreed the civic crown to him who saved the life of a single citizen, what wreaths are due to that man, who, having himself saved many, perpetuates in your Transactions the means by which Britain may now, on the most distant voyages, save numbers of her intrepid mari- ners, who, braving every danger, have so liberally contributed to the fame, to the opulence, and to the maritime empire of their country 1" The account of his first voyage, with the narrative of the expeditions of Byron, WalUs, and Carteret, had been pre- pared for publication by Dr. Hawkesworth. The manner in which that gentleman executed the charge intrusted to him gave little satisfaction ; and on this occasion it was deemed more advisable that the history of the enterprise should be written by him who had so ably conducted it. In submitting his work to the public, Cook considered it necessary to plead in excuse for any inaccuracies of composition, or deficiencies in the elegance of style, which might be observed in his nar- rative, " that it was the production of a man who had not had the advantage of much school-education, but who had been constantly at sea since his youth ; and though, with the as- sistance of a few good friends, he had passed through all the " Proper care was taken of the ship's coppers, so that they were kept constantly clean. The Tat, which boiled out of the salt beef and pork, I never suffered to be given to the people, as is customary ; being of opinion that it promotes the scurvy. I never foiled to take in water wherever it was to be procured, even when we did not seem to want it ; because I look upon fresh water from on shore to be much more whole- some than that which has been kept some time on board. Of this essen- tial article we were never at an allowance, but had always an abundance for every necessary purpose. I am convinced, that with plenty of firesh water, and a close attention to cleanliness, a ship's company wUl seldom be much afflicted with the scurvy, though they should not be provided with any of the antiscorbutics mentioned. ^' We came to few places where either the art of man or nature did not afford some sort of reflreshment or other, either of the animal or ve- getable kind. It was my first care to procure what could be met with of either by every means in my power, and to oblige our people to make use thereof, both by my example and authority ; but the benefits arising firora such refireshments soon became so obviotui, that I bad little occasion to employ either the one or the other.'* 1284 SECOND CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF COOK. if stations belonging to a seaman, front an apprentice-boy in the coal-trade to a post-captain in the royal navy, he had had no opportunity of cultivating letters." But, in truth, the " Voy- age towards the South Pole" stands in no need of such an apology. The sentiments and reflections are in every instance just, manly, and sagacious ; the descriptions are clear and graphic ; and the style is free from affectation, plain, flowing, and expressive. Omai, the native of Ulietea whom Captain Fumeaux took on board at Huaheine, was the first inhabitant of the South Sea Islands seen in Britain, where his presence naturally ex- cited intense curiosity. He was at once introduced into the highest circles, and patronised by the rank, fashion, and beauty of the metropolis. He was honoured by an interview'with his majesty George HI., who settled on him a pension during his residence in England, and made him several presents. He does not seem to have attained great proficiency in the English language ; but, by the aid of signs and gestures, he was able to make himself generally understood, and in a short time acquired such a knowledge of the town, that he could traverse it without guide or interpreter. For the opera, which had so many charms for the Otaheitan brought to Paris by Bougainville, he appears to have cared little. But we are assumed by Madame D'Arblay, that nothing could be mOro curious or less pleasing than one of the songs of his native land, which he chanted in the presence of her father : " Voice be had none ; and tune or air did not seem to be even aimed at, either by composer or performer ; 'twas a mere queer, wild, and strange rumbling of uncouth sound. His music, Dr. Bumey declared, was all that he had about him of sav- age.*'* The ease and grace of his manners, indeed, excit«d much wonder. With the talent for mimicry which is char- acteristic of his nation, he readily copied the forms of the society in which he mixed ; and, as his intercourse was with the most refined circles, he imitated only admired and elegant models. Dr. Johnson, whose vision, however, was none of the keenest, tells us, that dining at Streatham with Lord Mulgrave and the Ulietean, "they sat with their backs to the light fronthig me, so that I could not see distinctly ; and * Memoirs of Dr. Bumey, by his daughter, Madame D'Arblay, vol li., p. 7. !* COOK. tic€-boy in the le had had no ith, the " Voy- ed of such an every instance are clear and plain, flowing, Fumeaux took of the South e naturally ex- duced into the ion, and beauty interview*with pension during ireral presents, [icicncy in the d gestures, he , and in a short that he could le opera, which ht to Paris by But we are ;ould be more of his native thcr : " Voice be even aimed a mere queer. His music, it him of sav- ideed, excitttd which is char- forms of the urse was with d and elegant was none of m with Lord heir backs to stinctly ; and e D'Arblay, vol SECOND CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF COOK. 285 there was so little of the savage in Omai, that I was afraid to speak to either, lest I should mistake one for the other."* We are informed by another writer, that the island-barbarian was frequently contrasted with Mr. Stanhope (the son of Lord Chesterfield), who, after all that could be effected for him by the care and knowledge of a fond father, by the best teachers and the most advantageous circumstances, was far surpassed, at least in the outward graces of personal demeanour, by the rude and ignorant native of a remote island of the Pacific. But unfortunately his acquirements were limited to the superficial observances of social life. No greater proof of his intelligence has been recorded than his knowledge of the game of chess, in which he became singularly proficient. t With that zeal in good works for which he was so distinguished, the benevolent Granville Sharp laboured to instruct the Ulie- tean in the principles of writing, in which, it is said, he ac- quired such skill as to be able to pen one letter to Dr. Solan- der. Mr. Sharp endeavoured likewise to impart to him a knowledge of religious principles ; but the attempt met with little success. He appears, indeed, to have possessed a very ordinary intellect, and was far inferior in genius and observa- tion to the unfortunate Tupia, who embaued in the Endeav- our, and died at Batavia. The opinion which Cook at first expressed as to the talents of Omai was unquestionably just, although partiality for his savage ward afterward induced him to think differently. The rank which he held in his owii country was by no means elevated ; he belonged to neither of the dominant classes — ^the chiefs and the priests. His object in accompany- ing Captain Fumeaux to England appears to have been, a desire to obtain the means of successfully waging war with the men of Bolabola, expelling them from Ulietea, and regaining pos- session of his paternal domains. It has been remarked, that few savages have enjoyed so distinguished a destiny as Omai ; he was painted by Reynolds, sung by Cowper, and befriended by Cook ; while he enjoyed the society of Johnson, Banks, Lord Sandwich, Burney, So- lander. Sharp, Lord Mulgrave, and many others illustrious for * Boswell's Life or Johnson (Mr. Croker's edition), vol. iii., p. 374. t It is remarkable that all savages di>:play great readiness in learning, and great skill in playing games of combination, such as ctiesa, draughts, diC—^m Publishers. - . 286 SECOND CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF COOK. their rank or their learning. In his ovm estimation, perhaps, he was more fortunate in having been favoured with the no- tice of the most celebrated beauties of the day, the Crewes, the Cravens, and the Townshends of the last century. . t^i*-iJ.'-C2«i— — '»'■, ■■.;.(■■ f.i ' : . ."^ COOKS THIRD VOYAGE. {287 CHAPTER XI. Cook's Third Voyage. Objects of the Expedition.— Kergiielen's or Desolation Island.— Van Die. men'H Land.— NewkZeoland. — Mangeea, Wenooa-ette, and Wateeoo. — Palmerfton Island.— Transactions at the Friendly Islands.— The So- ciety l8land8.—Otaheite.—Eirneo.—Huaheine.— Settlement of Omai there, and Notice of his Life.— Ulielea.-Bolabola— Cook sails North- 5vard.— Christmas Island.- Discovers the Sandwich Archipelngo.— Makes the Coast of New Albion.— Nootka Sound.— Cook's River.— Behring's Strait. — Icy Cape.— Progress to the North arrested.- Revisits the Sandwich Islands.- Reception by the Natives.— Cook is wor- shipped as their God Orono.— Sails from Karakaooa Bay, but is obliged to return to it.— Hostile Disposition of the Natives.—'! he Discovery's Cutter is stolen.— Cook goes on shore to recover it. — Interview with the King.— A Chief siain.-Attack by the Natives.— Death of Cook. — Recovery and Burial of Part of his Uemains.— The Voyage is resumed. — Death of Captain Clerke.— The Ships reach China.— Fur-trade.— Arrival in England. While Cook was exploring the depths of the southern hemisphere, the British government prepared an expedition to investigate the seas and regions of the Arctic Circle. In 1773, Captain /^'^hn Phipps, afterward Lord Mulgrave, sailed from England ; : '-rder to determine how far navigation was practicable towarus the north pole ;* and, though the general result of his enterprise could not be regarded as very favour- able, hopes were still cherished that a channel between the At- lantic and the Pacific might be discovered on the northern verge of the American continent, and it was resolved that a voyage for this purpose should be undertaken. Lord Sandwich, anxious to consult Cook as to the manage- ment of the enterprise, invited him to dine at his house, along with Sir Hugh Palliser and Mr. Stephens, the secretary to the Admiralty. In the discussion that followed, the importance of the design, the advantages which it would confer on science * A notice of this expedition will be found in the Family Library, NOi. XIV. Narrative of Discovery and Adventure in the Polar Seas and Re- gions, PL 260. 28S cook's third voyage. and navigation, and the fair field whi( h it opened for honour and distinction, were so strongly rcpiT . Mitcd, that the great difcoverer, becoming exceedingly aniniui.ed, at length started to his feet, and declared that he himscK would take the com- mand of it. His active and restless spirit seems to have looke,d with impatience on retirement and repose, however honourable ; and scarcely had he returned from his second voyage when we find him longing to engage in a new expedi- tion.* The offer which he now made gratified the secret wishes of his noble entertainer, and was most willingly and joyfully accepted. On the 9th of February, 1776, he was ac- cordingly reappointed to the Resolution ; Captain Gierke be- ing placed under his orders in command of the Discovery, a vessel of three hundred tons, fitted out exactly as the Adven- ture had been in the former voyage. The instructions for conducting this expedition were dated on the 6th of July, 1776. They directed the captain to make his way to the Cape of Good Hope, and thence "proceed southward in search of some islands said to have been lately seen by the French, in the latitude of 48° S., and about the meridian of Mauritius," that is, 57° 28' 30" E. He was then to steer for Otaheite, with power to touch, if he judged it ne- cessary, at New Zealand ; and having refreshed his crews there, to run directly for the shores of New Albion, about the * We are indebted to Mr. Locker (Gallery of Greenwich Hospital, part i.) fbr the following letter from Cook, addressed within a week after his appointment in Greenwich Hospital to one of his earliest friends and pa- trons—the worthy Quaker to whom he was apprenticed at Whitby :— « Mile End, August IQth, 1775. " Dear Sir— As I have not now time to draw up an account of such occurrences of the voyage as I wish to communicate to you, 1 can only thank you fo^your obliging letter and kind inquiries aHer me during my absence. I must, however, tell you that the Resolution was found to answer on all occasions even beyond my expectations, and is so little in- jured by the voyage that she will soon be sent out again. But I shall not command her : my fate drives me from one extreme to another. A few months ago, the whole southern hemisphere was hardly big enough for me, and now I am going to be conflned within the limits of Greenwich Hospital, which are fhr too small for an active mind like mine. I must, however, confess it is a fine retreat, and a pretty income ; but whether I can bring myself to like ease and retirement time will show. Mrs. Cook joins with me in best respects to you and all your family, and believe me to be, dear sir, 3'oar most affectionate ft-iend and humble servant, " James Coox. ** To Captain John Walker, at Whitby, iu Yorkshire." /. COOK 8 THIRD VOYAGE. 889 1 for honour lat the great ;ngth sttrted ike the cora- Dms to have 5SC, however n his second new expedi- 3d the secret willingly and 6, he was ac- lin Gierke be- Discovery, a 18 the Adven- )n were dated ptain to make lice "proceed ve been lately Bind about the He was then judged itne- icd his crews lion, about the ch Hospital, part I week after his friends and pa- [at Whitby:— jst 19th, 1775. [account of such you, i can only iT me during my |n was found to \\6 is so little in- But I shall not mother. K few / big enough for [s of Greenwich mine. I must, but whether I jw. Mrs. Cook , and believe me jervant, Iames Cook. parallel of 46° north. Having sailed along the coast till he reached the latitude of 66°, he was ordered ** very carefully to search for and to explore such rivers or inlets as may appear to be of a considerable extent, and pointing towards Hud- son's or Baffin's Bays, and if there should appear to be a certainty, or even a probability, of a water passage into tho aforementioned bays, to use his utmost endeavours to pass through." Failing in this, he was to winter in the port of St. Peter and St. Paul, in Kamtschatka, and in the spring to renew the search for a northeast passage into the Atlantic* By an act of the legislature passed in 1746, a reward of 20,000/. wa» held out to any ship not in his majesty's service which should discover a channel leading from Hudson's Bay into the Pacific ; and with a view of encouraging the crews, the statute was now amended, so as to bring this noble premium within the reach of the present enterprise. To co-operate with Cook, a vessel was despatched to BafHn's Bay to examine its western shores for an opening into the same ocean ; but Lieu- tenant Young, to whom the command was intrusted, returned without having effected any thing. Tho Resolution, with Omai on board, sailed from Plymouth Sound on the 12th Jidy, 1776, and was joined by the Dis- covery at the Capo of Good Hope on the 10th of November. They put to sea on the dd December, and proceeded south- east, according to their instructions, in search of the alleged French discoveries, the position of which was by no means fully determined, t On the 12th they fell in with the islands seen by Marion and Crozet in 1772. Leaving these, they shaped their course to the southward, and on the 24th got * Voyage to the Paeiflc Ocean for making Discoveries In the Northern Hemisphere (3 vols. 4to, 2d edition, London, 1785), introduction, p. xxxi' XXXV. Of this work, the first and second volumes were written by Cook, the third by Captain King, while the long and valuable introduction, and the erudite notes and illostrations, were flrom the pen of Dr. Douglas, alterward Bishop of Salisbury. t The discoveries so va&uely mentioned In the Instructions were those made by M. Kergaelen, who sailed flrom the Isle of France in January, 1779, and on the ISth of February, in lat. 50** 5' 8., discovered a high land to which he gave his own name. On his return to France he repie- aented his discovery in such glowing colours, that Louis XV. gave him the cross of St. Louis, and sent him out to complete its survey. He reached It in December, 177S, and coutinoed to explore its coasts till the 0th of January following. On reaching France he was accused of mis* conduct, deprived of his rank, and thrown into prison. - M^9> '« * I -'^- '.'' 890 cook's third voyaob •ight of tomp Htnall onps about the latitude of iH^ S{0' S., atid longitude 68° 40' E., which had been vinitnd and named by Kerguelen in December, 1773. On the lamo day, atanding to the aouth aouthcaRt in Bearch of land ieen in the mornings they reached a more oxtonaive eoaat indented by several bayii, amonff which they expected to find a good harbour. Tnia proved to bo the true Kcrguelcn^a Land of which our navi' gator waa in queat ; but, in place of being a continent, aa waa at one time auppoaed, he found it an inconaidorablo and ateril ialand, worthy of the name of Desolation, if delicacy to the diacoverer had permitted a change of title. No apot in either hemisphere under the same parallel of latitude, according to the report of Mr. Anderson, the surgeon, who officiated as naturaliat, preaented less employment to the botanist ; and its only living creatures were of the marine species, chiefly ur* sine seala and birds, as penguins and albatrosses. The hills, though of moderate height, wore covered with snow, even at thia season, which corresponded with the month of June in England ; and the land, where not froien, waa for the most part a mere bog, which yielded at every step. The voyagera quitted this bleak shore on tho 80th of De- cember, and steered east by north for New Zealand. On tho 34th of January they deacried the cooat of Van Diemen's liand, and two days af^er anchored in the bay formerly visited by Captain Fumeaux, and by him named Adventure. Here wood and water were procured in abundance ; but fodder for the animals on board was not so readily obtained. Whil6 some of the crew were engaged in procuring these supplies, others carried on a successful fishery, and a party was em- ployed in surveying the bay. The natives, who approached without fear, had no weapons of offence, except pointed sticks about two»feet long, occasionally used as darts. They were destitute of clothes or ornaments of any kind, but small punc- tures were observed on different parts of their bodies, some in straight lines and others in curves. They were of the com- mon stature, but rather slender ; their skins were black, as also their hair, which was woolly ; but they were not remark- aMe for the other peculiarities of the negro race — thick lips or flat noses. On the 30th the ships weighed anchor and put to sea, pur< suing their course to the east till the 10th of February, when ihey came in sight of New Zealand, and on the 1 3th ahchorcd il COOK S TIIIUD VOYAOE. 291 !• 30' «., mid id named by iay, Rtanding the inorniii|{i neveral bayRt rhour. This tich our iiBvi' continent, as Hidorablo and if delicacy to No apot in ide, according 3 officiated as inist; and its js, chiefly ur* I. The hills, mow, even at ith of June in I for the most 80th of Do- and. On tho an Diemen's rmorly visited nture. Here )ut fodder for ned. While lese supplies, trty was em- o approached )0inted sticks They were ; small punc- bodies, some re of the com- ere black, as not remark- '— thick lips it to sea, pur* bruary, when 3th ihchorcd Weapons of New Zealand. in the well-known station of Queen Charlotte's Sound. Ser- eral canoes in no long time made their appearance, but veiy few of those who occupied them would venture on bourd. Their shy and timid behaviour Cook considered to arise from a dread of punishment for the murder of the boat*8 crew belong- ing to tho Adventure, and used every means to reassure them of his friendly intentions. In this he was successful ; their distrust gradually gave way, every sign of fear vanished, and as amicable an understanding was established as if no evil had ever happened to mar it. Tne inquiries which he made, as to the melancholy fate of his former companions, were readily answered, though considerable discrepances appeared in the accounts which hn received from different individuals. The party, it should seem, left their boat in charge of a black servant, and, unsuspicious of danger, sat down to dinner about 200 yards off, surrounded by the natives, who, at that period, there is reason to believe, entertained no unfriendly designs. During tho repast, some of the savages snatched -Ml in i" 9 ^ 292 COOK S THIRD VOYAGE. i 'A Ik i away a portion of the bread and fish, for which they were punished with blows ; while, about the same time, one of them detected in pilfering the boat n ceived a severe stroke £rom the keeper. His cries alarmed his countrymen, who imagined he was mortally wounded ; and as their resentment had been excited Yj the usage which they themselves expe- rienced, they readily yielded to the desire of revenge. A quarrel instantly ensued, in which two of them were shot dead by the only muskets discharged ; more would probably have faJlen, had they not rushed upon the English, anned with their stone weapons, and, overpowering thent by numbers, left not one alive. Kahoora, one of the chiefs, acknowledged that he had attacked the commander of the party ; but en- deavoured to justify himself on the ground that one of the muskets fired was levelled at him, and that he only escaped by skulking behind the boat. Whatever truth there might be in his vindication, the natives frequently importuned Cook to kill him, and were surprised that he did not comply with their request. " But if I had followed the advice of all our pre- tended friends," says he, "I might have extirpated the whole race ; for the people of each hamlet, or village, by turns ap- plied to me to destroy the other."* The voyagers left Queen Charlotte's Sound on the 25th February, carrying with them two native youths, and stood for the Society Islands. On the 29th of March they came in sight of one, small but inhabited, called by the natives Man- ?eea, situated in latitude 21° 57' S., and longitude 201° 53' E. ts appearance was very pleasing, and indicated a fertile soil. The people, who seemed a fine and vigorous race, were of a tawny colour, and had strong, straight black hair and long beards ; the insides of their arms were tattooed in the man- ner adoptecl by several of the other islanders of Polynesia ; their language was a dialect of that which is common through- out the South Sea. One of them, who ventured on board, happening to stumble over a goat, asked Omai what lird it was. * Voyage to the Pacific, vol. i., p. 124. In 1827, Mr. Earle met with an aged savage, wlio, in answer to inquiries put to tiim, aaid he xlid not remeniher Cooli, but " weli recollected Captain Furneaux, and was one ortbe party which cut off* and massacred his boat's crew ; and flrom other information," adds the author, "which I received, I believe his assertion to have been correct."— Narrative of a Nine Months' Resideiuse in Now Zealand, by Augustus Earle (London, 1832), p, 23. i /•I COOK S THIRD VOYAGE. 293 ;h they were time, one of severe stroke trymen, who ir resentment aselves expe- revenge. A m were shot ould probably h, anned with numbers, left icknowledged arty ; but en- lat one of the only escaped ;here might be uned Cook to iply with their f all our pre- ited the whole I, by turns ap- on the 25th , and stood for they came in natives Man- le201°53'E. I a fertile soil, ice, were of a lair and long I in the man- )f Polynesia ; imon through- cd on board, what lird it Earle met with said he did not IX, and was one and flrom other ve his assertion Idence In N«w Leaving this island on the afternoon of the 30th, the next lay brou^t the navigators in sight of another similar in ap- pearance and extent, and situated only a few leagues farther to the north. On approaching its shores, a third was observed right ahead ; but as it was much smaller, Cook sent boats to look for anchorage and a landing-place on the one first discov- ered. As they were putting on, some natives rowed to the Bhips in their canoes, and, \men asked, gave a few cocoanuts, seemingly without any notion of baiter or care for the value of the presents made in return. Soon after their departure another party arrived, whose conductor brought a bunch of plantains — a donation which was afterward understood to be from the chief of the island, and was acknowledged by an axe and a piece of red cloth. In a short time there came along- side a double canoe, in which were twelve men, who, as they drew near, recited some words in concert, one of them first standing up, and giving note of preparation. This ceremony over, they asked for the comimander, to whom they offered a pig, a few cocoanuts, and a piece of matting. They were then led through the ship, some of the contents of which sur- prised them considerably, though none fixed their attention for a moment. They were afraid of the cows and horses, but the sheep and goats did not seem wholly strange to them, though, like the native of Mangeea, they supposed these ani- mals to be birds. In most jpoints they resembled the inhabi- tants of that island, although several of them were of darker complexion. No landing having been effected on this day, the attempt was renewed the next morning by Messrs. Gore, Bumey, and Anderson, who, accompanied by Omai, at length reached the shore, but amid dangers which occasioned much anxiety to their companions. Having anchored within 100 yards of the land, two canoes came o£f to give assistance, which they thought proper to ac- cept ; and their conductors, watching the movements of the surf, caught a fit opportunity to push tlirough, and placed them on the reef. On the beach they were met by several natives, bearing green branches in their hands, who led them among a crowd whose curiosity was so troublesome that it was necessary to repress it by blows from some persons in authority. The party were then guided through an avenue of cocoa-palms, to a number of men, arranged in two rows, armed with clubs, among whom sat a chidf cross-legged on Bb2 ■^1 294 COOK S THIRD VOYAGE* ' P the ground, and cooling himself with a leaf used as a fan. After saluting this personage, who was distinguished by large bunches of red feathers placed in his ears, the party approached two others seated in the same posture, and wearing similar ornaments ; one of them was remarkable for size and corpu- lence, though not above thirty years of age ; the second, who was apparently older than either, desired the strangers to sit down. The people were then directed to stand aside, and make room for the performance of a dance by about twenty young women, adorned like the chiefs. Their motions, which were dictated by a prompter, or master of the ceremonies, were accompanied by a slow and serious air sung by all the dancers. This entertainment was followed by a mock club- fight. The island, though never before visited by Europeans, was found to contain three countrymen of Omai, natives of the So- ciety Isles. They were the sole survivers of about twenty persons of both sexes, who, in a voyage from Otaheite to Ulietea, were driven by contrary winds to this spot — a distance of nearly 200 leagues. They had been here probably twelve years, and were so thoroughly satisfied as to have no wish to return. This incident, says the intelligent navigator, " will serve to explain, better than a thousand conjectures of specu- lative reasoners, how the detached parts of the earth, and, in particular, how the islands of the South Sea, may have been fijrst peopled, especially those that lie remote from any inhab- ited continent, or from each other."* The native name of the island was ascertained to be Wateeoo ; it is described as a place of great beauty, agreeably diversified by hills and plains, and covered with verdure of many hues ; it lies in lat- itude 20° 1' S., and^ longitude 201° 45' E., and is about six leagues in circumference. Mr. Anderson pronounces the in- habitants a well-made race, more especially those of rank. Many of the young were perfect models in point of shape, and had delicate complexions. According to the report of Omai, their manners and religion were nearly the same with those of the Society Islands ; and their language was equally intelligi- ble to the Otaheitan and to the New Zealanders. On the morning of the 4th April Cook proceeded to visit the neighbouring island, which the natives of that which he * Voyage to th« Pacific, vol. i., p. 302. \ [ as a fan. ed by large approached ing similar and corpu- econd, who ngers to sit I aside, and »out twenty tions, which ceremonies, ig by all the mock club- ■opeans, was 38 of the So- ibout twenty Otaheite to : — a distance ibably twelve re no wish to igator, " will •es of specu- larth, and, in ay have been m any inhab- ;ive name of described as by hills and it lies in lat- is about six unces the in- lose of rank, of shape, and Urt of Omai, [with those of lally intelligi- Uded to visit Ihat which he COOKS THIRD VOYAGE. 295 had left termed indifferently Wenooa-ette and Otakootaia. It lay in latitude 19° 51' S., and did not exceed three miles in circuit. No human beings were seen ; but many traces oc- curred to show that it was occasionally visited ; some deserted huts were observed, and under the shade of trees were found monuments of stone, and enclosed spots which had perhaps been used as sepulchres. The voyagers now shaped their course towards Hervey Isl- and, observed in the preceding voyage.* To the great sur- prise of the captain, who had believed the place to be without mhabitants, several canoes put off from the shore. From three to six men were in each, but not one of them could be persuaded to venture on board. Although they differed much in appearance from the natives of Mangeea — their complexion being of a darker hue, and their aspect more fierce and war- like—no doubt could be entertained that they were of the same race. The name of their island was Terouggemou Atooa, and they acknowledged that they were subject to the King of Wateeoo ; their language was very similar to that of Otaheite. They said they had seen two great ships sail past, but did not speak with them : these must have been the Res- olution and Adventure during the former voyage. Cook resolved, on the 6th, to bear away for the Friendly Islands, at which he was sure to obtain the suppUes which the groups he just passed had been found to deny. On the 13th, when in danger of losing his cattle from want food, he reached Palmerston Island, which he had discovered in 1774.t Here he fortunately procured scurvy-grass, palm-cabbages, and young cocoa-trees for the animals on board ; while his crew fared sumptuously on birds, fish, and cocoanuts. This clus- ter, which is uninhabited and without water, comprehends nine or ten low islets, which are probably the summits of the coral-reef that connects them together. One, on which a landing was made, was scarcely a mile in circuit, and not more than three feet above the level of the sea ; its surface appeared to be merely a coral-sand, with a small mixture of blackish mould ; but, notwithstanding the poverty and thin- ness of this soil, trees and bushes were both numerous and varied. Several small brown rats were seen, conveyed thither^ * See above, p. 260. t Sec above, p. 272. 296 COOKS THIRD VOYAGE. it was conjectured, in a canoe, a fragment of which still re- mained on the beach.* From this position, which he left on the 17th, the navigator proceeded westward. On the night of the 24th he passed Savage Island, discovered in his second voyage ;t on the fourth day after he came in sight of some of the Friendly group, and moored about five miles off Komango or Mango, the natives of which brought cocoanuts, plantains, and other articles, in exchange for nails. On the 1st of May he dropped anchor at Annamooka (the Rotterdam of Tasman), in the same spot which he had occu- pied three years before. A few days after his arrival he met with a chief, whose name has since acquired a European re- nown — Feenou or Finow — who was then only tributary lord of Hapai, but was introduced to Cook as king of all the Friendly Islands, one hundred and fifty-three in number. This individual was found very serviceable in forwarding the object of the voyagers, who experienced no little annoyance from the thievish disposition of the common people, and even some of the chiefs. After punishing one of the latter by inflicting a dozen lashes and temporary confinement, the nobles no longer pilfered in person, but depredations were continued by their slaves, on whom, we are told, a flogging appeared to make no greater impression than it would have done on the mainmast. The only means by which they could be effectually restrained from pillage was shaving their heads ; which at once exposed them to the ridicule of their countrymen, and enabled the English to keep them at a distance. r inding the supply of provisions almost exhausted in little more than a week, Cook meant to visit Tongataboo ; but, by the advice of the jiing, he proceeded to a group of islands called Hapai, lying to the northeast, of which the principal are Lefooga, Foa, Haano, Wilia, and Hooaleva. After a dan- gerous passage through a sea studded with shoals, rocks, and small islands, the ships came to anchor on the 1 7th May, and soon after Feenou and Omai undertook the task of formally introducing the captain to the natives of the island. He was * By some continental geograpbers the name of Cook's Arcliipelago has been applied to Mangeea, Otakootaia, Hervey Island, and their depen- dances. See Balbi, Abr^g^ de Gtographie, p. I2T7. Mnnay> Encyclic paedia of Geography, p. 1538. t BtB above, p. S7S. COOK S THIRD VOYAGE. t97 hich still re- the navigator th he passed • on the fourth ly group, and p, the native* ler articles, in inamooka (the I he had occu- arrival he met European re- tributary lord ing of all the lumber. This ding the object yance from the I even some of by inflicting a obles no longer tinued by their xed to make no the mainmast, oally restrained t once exposed id enabled the lausted in little taboo ; but, by roup of islands the principal . After a dan- oals, rocks, and 17th May, and ask of formally iland. He was look's Archipelago d, and their aepen- Htumy't Eacydo> conducted to a house on the margin of the sea, where he was seated beside his patrons ; while the chiefs and a multitude of people were ranged in a circle outside and in front of the erection. Taipa, a friendly noble, then addressing his coun- tryman by order of Feenou, exhorted them to behave with kindness and honesty to their visiters, and bring to them sup- plies o( provisions, for which they would receive valuable arti- cles in exchange. Early next morning the latter chief came on board, and persuaded the discoverer to accompany him to the shore, where they found a great concourse of the inhabitants. A large quantity of yams and other articles having been presented with much pomp, the spectators fonned themselves into a ring to observe a succession of single combats, in which the par- ties fought with clubs. Wrestling and pugilistic matches were also performed, and the voyagers saw with surprise " a couple of lusty wenches step forth and begin boxing, without the least ceremony, and with as much art as the men.'* These diversions took place in the presence of 3000 people ; and the gifts offered on the occasion loaded four boats, and far sur- passed any donation yet received in the islands of the Pacific. On first landing. Cook's quick and sagacious eye perceived " that something more than ordinary was in agitation ;" but he seems afterward to have considered that the magnitude of the preparations was sutRciently explained by the munificence of the present. How little was he aware of the dangers which surrounded him ! Snares were laid for his destruction ; and the chiefs and their followers, who seemed to outvie each other in kindness and hospitality, only awaited a token from Feenou to commence a general massacre. Fortunately, dis- putes arose among the conspirators which led to the abandon- ment of the treacherous design, and the games passed on with- out the expected signal being made.* The treacherous chief, on whose nod the lives of the strangers had depended, aecora- * Mariner's Tonga Islandfi (8d edition), Edinburgh, 1827, vol. ii., p. 71, 72. " Mr. Mariner," it is said, " had this information at different times ftpom several chiers who were present, and in particular from Feenou himseir, the son of the chief who was at the head of the conspiracy." Had Cook discovered their treauherouii; intentions, he would have proh- abiy hesitated to apply to these islanders the epithet Friendly, which so many events have shown to he siujrularly undeserved. A witty French- man writes, '^ Nous dlmex adieu hux habitnns des lies des Amis,6ont ie Rom, ninsi que les bienveillantes dispositions, nous rappellaient si bien 298 COOK S THIRD VOYAGE. m 1 i I panied them on board, and having been entertained at their table, was dismissed with renewed marks of their liberality and friendship. " As soon as he got on shore," says Cook, ** he sent me a fresh present, consisting of two large hogs, a considerable quantity of cloth, and some yams." It would be difficult to determine the feelings by which the savage was actuated in this step ; whether he was swayed by remorse or by gratitude ; if his generosity was a cunning device to obvi* ate suspicion, or if it flowed from a heart softened into peni- tence by unmerited kindness, and anxious to expiate the crime which it had meditated. Two days after the islanders were gratified by a review of the marines, and by a display of fireworks. The music, per^ formed for their amusement, obtained no praise ; the French horns were absolutely despised ; and even the drum, which they most admired, was not thought equal to their own. The natives on their part exhibited numerous dances and other entertainments, which were prolonged through a great portion of the night. On the 27th a large canoe appeared, having a personage on board not previously seen, who was said to be the real king of Tongataboo and all the neighbouring islands. It was with cKfficulty the commander could be persuaded that Feenou was a subordinate chief; and it was only from the urgent representation of the natives, that he was induced to acknowledge the supremacy of this new visiter. Futtafaihe or Poulaho, for he went by both names, was accordingly in- vited into the ship, which he was desirous to inspect ; and he brought with him a present of two fat hogs, *' If weight of body could give weight in rank or power," says the captain, "his majesty was certainly the most eminent man we had seen." \yhen introduced into his presence, Fee- nou paid precisely the usual obeisance, saluting the sov.> ereign's foot with his head and hands, and retiring when the monarch sat down to eat.* Poulaho invited Cook to Tonga- nos amis de 1815."— D'Urville, Voyage autour da Monde, tome iv, p. 392. * Cook failed to acquire a correct knowledge of the peculiar govern* nient of the Tonga Archipelago. Poulaho was Touitonga, that is, a di.> vine chief or suprenne rank, and of absolute power in religious affkirs, but of little authority in secular matters. His person is considered sacred, and the highest chiefk must perform towards him the humiliating cere- mony of saluting his feet. " Dans les attributions du toui-tonga," says P'Urville, **ilest difficile de ne pas saisir sur-le-obamp une ressem* COOK^S THIRD VOYAGE* 299 ned at their iix liberality ' says Cook, arge hogs, a It would be savage was y remorse or vice to obvi- ed into peni-. Bite the crime f a review of e music, per- ; the French drum, which ir own. The ;es and other , great portion red, having a as said to be »uring islands, ersuaded that jnly from the IS induced to Futtafaihe jcordingly in- inspect; and " If weight er," says the eminent man resence, Fee- "^ing the sov- ring when the )ok to Tonga- Sonde, tome iv, Ipeculiar govern* l^a, that is, a di- 1^iou8afnur«,but iisidered sacred, lumiliating cere- |oui-tonga," says ip ane ressem* taboO) which they reached on the 10th June, after a passage dangerous from the number of coral rocks, on which both vessels struck, fortunately without receiving damaget Their reception was friendly in the extreme, a house was set apart for their use, and they were welcomed with the ac clamations of the people. Feenou proved very serviceable^ and the treatment experienced from other chiefs, though a little capricious and mercenary, held forth every hope of an amicable intercourse. Feasting occupied a considerable por-* tion of the time, both in the ships and on the shore. It was frequently troublesome in the former, owing to the numbed who thronged into the cabin, provided neither the spiritual sovereign nor Feenou was there — the presence of either gener- ally operating as an exclusion to all the rest. His majesty's visits were, consequently, much prized by his host, and ap' peared to be far from disagreeable to himself. He was soon reconciled to English fare : " But still, I believe,*' says the former, " he dined thus frequently with me, more for the sake of what we gave him to drink, than for what we set before him to eati For he had taken a liking to our wine, could empty his bottle as well as most men, and was as cheerful ovet it. This social communication did not prevent many dep* redations by the lower orders, whose repeated and daring of' fences became at length so serious that it was neiMssaiy they should be effectually checked. On the disappci^nce of a kid and two turkey-cocks. Cook had recourse t^' a measure^ which he had found not unsuccessful on {(B^er occasions. ** I could not be so simple," he says, " as to suppose that this was merely an accidental loss ; and I was determined to have them again. The first step I took was to seize onjthree ca« noes that happened to be alongside the ships. I then went ashore, and, having found the king, his brother, Feenou, and some other chiefs, in the house that we occupied, I immedi^ ately put a guard over them, and gave them to understand that they must remain under restraint till not only the kid blance asMs (htppante avec le caractire et Ie« honnean dont lea chr6tieni caiholiques avaient environn^ la personne da chef de leur religion : pni8> sance spirituelle sans bornea, une demi-divinit^, aatoriti temporelleplus ou moins ^tendue, baisemens de pieds et tributs universels.'*— Voyage, tonne iv., p. 335. Feenoa was in poeaeseion of the temporal and execu- five power of the state, in virtue of an office somewhat analogous to that of the Maire du Palais in France ; and hia foinily eventually suc- ceeded in deposing Touitonga. 300 COOK S THIRD VOYAGE. and the turkeys, but the other things that had been stole:! from us at different times, were restored. They concealed as well as they could their feelings on finding themselves prisoners ; and having assured me that every thing should be restored as I desired, sat down to drink their kava^ seemingly much at their ease. It was not long before an axe and an iron wedge were brought to me. In the mean time, some armed natives began to gather behind the house ; but, on a part of our guard marching against them, they dispersed, and I advised the chiefs to give orders that no more should ap- pear. Sueh orders were accordingly given by them, and they were obeyed. On asking them to go aboard with me to din- ner, they readily consented ; but some having afterward ob- 1'ected to the king's going, he instantly xose up, and declared le would be the fisst man. Accordingly, we came on board. I kept them there till near four o'clock, when I conducted them ashore^ and soon after the kid and one of the turkey- cocks were brought back. The other, they said, should be restored the next morning. I believed this would happen, and released beth them and the canoes."* This confidence was verified by the result ; the remaining fowl and most of the articles that had been stolen were soon after returned, and the expedient which had been adopted had not the slightest prejudicial effect on the friendly dispositions of the king or his nobles. A few days before his departure. Cook entertained Poulaho at dinner. The monarch was observed to take particular notice uf the plates, and having obtained one of pewter, mentioned two remarkable purposes to which he meant if the king or tained Poulaho ;ake particular ne of pewter, he meant ta »ther island, he )rcsentatiye, to as to his own rmed this ser' uch he washed ies of ordeal;; irson could not ifore him, and they advanced lanner as they [)bber ventured ' to lay his hands on the sacred vessel, he was overtaken by instant death, not by violence, but by the finger of Provi- dence ; if, on the contrary, he declined the test, his refusal was considered a clear proof of his guilt.* After a sojourn of nearly three months, during which time the most cordial friendship was maintained, Cook bade adieu to the Tonga Islands on the 17th of July. The time which he passed among them was by no means unprofitably spent, as the season for proceeding to the north had gone by before he resolved to visit them, and more especially as the abundance of fresh provisions enabled him to spare his sea-stock. He likewise benefited the people, by leaving with them several useful animals, while he recruited those which were destined for Otaheite. On the 8th of August, in latitude 23° 25' S., longitude 210° 37' E., the voyagers discovered a small island, called by the natives Toobouai, and surrounded by a coral reef, on which there was a violent surf. The inhabitants, who spoke the language of the Society Islands, appeared to be unarmed, t From this he steered northward, and, on the fourth day after, came in sight of the S. E. end of Otaheite, whence sev- eral canoes came off. Those on board seemed scarcely to recognise the travelled Ulietean, and the meeting even with his brother-in-law was cold and distant, until he presented him with a few red feathers ; upon which the heart of the latter warmed, and he begged that Omai and he might be tayos or * Voyage to the Pacific, vol. i., p. 336. More than thirty years after- ward, Mr. Mariner saw this dish In the possession or Tuuitonga's son. Cook does not seem to have been made fully aware or the purposes to which it was destined, which are thus explained by the other :— " irany one is tabooed [consecrated or set apart] by touching the person or gar- ments or Touitonga, there is no other chief can relieve him from his to- boo, because no chief is equal to him in rank ; and to avoid the inconve- nience arising from his absence, a consecrated bowl (or some such thing) belonging to Touitonxa is applied to and touched instead of his feet. In Mr. Mariner's time, Touitonga always left a pewter di"h for this purpose, which dish was given to his father by Captain Cook." — M:iriner'8 Ton- ga Islands, vol. ii., p. 188. This ceremony is termed moe-moey and until it is performed no. person who is tabooed will dare to feed himself with bis own hands. The " wooden bowl," whicli was formerly used in this rite, it is said, was given to the ancestor of Poulaho by Tasman, in 1643. —Quarterly Review, vol. ii., p. 32. t This place, where Christian and the mutineers of the Bounty endeav- oured to effect a settlement in 17S9, Lord Byron has selected as the scene of his poem of the Island, altering the name tor the sake of ea- phony into Toobonai. Co 1 r V I 302 cook's third voyage. friends, and exchange names. The crimson plumes produced an alteration equally favourable on the rest of his countrymen. Our navigator counselled him to economize the treasures with which he had been loaded in Britain, so that he might be respected in his own land ; but the advice was little regarded, and he allowed himself to be cheated by every cunning flat- terer. " His first interview with his sister," we are told, " was marked with expressions of the tenderest affection, ea- sier to be conceived than to be described ;'* and an old woman, sister to his mother, equally fervent in her joy, fell at his feet and bedewed them with her tears. Having anchored in Oai- tipiha Bay,* Cook proceeded to inspect his provisions, calk * On going ashore at this place, Cook found a wooden house erected on the margin or the sea, and near it a cross, with the inscription, " Ciikis- Tus viNriT— Carolum III. iMPKRAT, 1774." They had been raised, he was told, by the crews of two vessels, which had recently visited the island, and which he rightly conjectured had been despntcbed from the Spanish settlements in South America. He was not able, however, to obtain any ceitain information regarding the voyage ; and it is only with- in the last year that an account of its transnctions has been brought to light, by a manuscript presented to the Geographical Society of Paris by M. H. Ternaux. An abstract of this interesting document, tty M. n'lJr- ville, is inserted in the Rulletin of ihe Society for March, 1834 (2d s^rie, tome i., p. 145-164) ; and some fbrlher details of the enterprise have ap> peared in the Journal of the Royal Geographical Society of London (vol. iv. p. 182-101) In October, 1771, the court of Spain, alarmed at the late visits of the English to ihH South Sea, gave orders to the Viceroy of Lima to prepare, without delay, an expedition to examine the 8oc ety Archipelaito. and particularly Otaheite, and to report upon the capabil ties, po|iulaiion,and resources of these islands. The viceroy in consequence fitted out the Aguila firigate ; which, under the command of Hon Domingo Ronechea, sailed from Callao on the 26th of Seitember, 1772. She reached Otaheite on the 10th of November, and on the V6th of March, 1773, arrived at Val- paraiso. The commander made a very favourable representation of the countries he had be^n sent to explore ; and, in conveying bin journals and observations to the king, " I could not," says the viceroy. " but at the same time strongly express my own opinion to his mnjesty, as to the great prejudice which would result to his dominions in these seas if any other |>ower were permitted to take previous possession of them." These views met the approbation of the court of Madrid, and C''aptain Bonechea was again despatched to tlie Society group. He sailed from Callao on the 20lh September, 1774, having on board two monks of the or- der of St. Francis, a portable house, sheep and cattle, seeds and imple> menis, two natives brought away in the previous voyage, and a I'nguist, to be left at Otaheite with the missionaries. On the 30th October he dis- covered an island, which he named San Narcisso, and which is believed to be the same with He Daugier of Dup^rrey. The next day he descried another, which be called Las Animas (theMoller of Billinghausen, and the Freycinet of Duperrey). On the 1st of November 1m digcerned one COOK S THIRD VOYAGE. 303 •8 produced ountrymen. B treasures tie might be le regarded, unning flat- re are told, flFection, ea- i old woman, 1 at his feet ared in Oai- visions, calk sum erected on ition, "CiiRis- leen raised, he Illy visited the iched flrom the le, however, to itisoniy with- een brought to ety of Paris by It. I»y M. n'lJr- 1834 (2d s^rie, rprise have «p- f London (vol. te visits of the ima to prepare. rchipelaiEo, ana population, and lilted out the iiigo Ronechea, sached Otaheite , arrived at Val- leiitation of the ig hif) journals •oy. "buiatihe jesty, as to the ese seas if any ►f tliem." d, and ('aptain He sailed from fioriksof iheor- eds and imple- and a l-nguist, October he dis- lich is believed day he descried inghausen, and le discerned one the vessels, and make other necessary arrangements. Know- ing the excellence of the cocoanut. liquor, he was desirous of prevailing on his seamen to exchange for it part of their allow- ance of spirits during their stay at the island ; and having as- sembled the ship's company, he represented the advantages of which he had seen in his previous voyage; and denominated San Simon et Juiles ; it is supposed to be identical with the Resolution of Cook (see above, p. 357). On the morning of the 3d he saw a low isle (the Doubt> ful of the great English navigator), which he entitled Los Marlines; and in the evening of the same day another, which he designated San Qnin- tin ; the latter seems to be that on which Beechey, in I82A, bestowed the appellation ofCroker, in honour of the very learned and able Secretary to the Admiralty The following afternoon he observed a third, on which he conferred the title of Todos Santos, and which is apparently the Chain Island of Cook. At sunset of the 8th the summits of Otaheiie (or, as he designs it, Amai) came in sight ; and on the 27th he anchored in the har< hour of Oaiiiptha. The building of the wooden mansion was completed towards the end of the year; and on the 1st of January, 1775, the symbol of Christianity seen by Cook was erected on the shore with great pomp, amid the chanting of masMes and discharges of muskets and artillery. Having landed the cattle, the captain set sail on the 7ih, and passing by Eimeo and Huaheine, touched at Ulietea ; and having descried Bolabola, Tahuaemanu, Telhuroa and Manpete or Maurua, relumed to Olaheite on the 20th. Six days after. Bonechea died, and was interred with becoming ceremony at the foot of the cross. The command now devolved on Don Tomas tiayangos, who on the 28th made sail for Lima, where he ar- rived in April, having seen and named in his route the islands Santa Rosa (the R'lvaval or Vavitou of modern maps), San Junn (the Melville of Beechey), San .lulian (the Adventure of Cook), and San Bias (the Tchit- ■hagolf of Billinghatisen). " The result of this voyage," we are told, « was the examination of twenty-one islands, nine of which were low, and I he others lolly. A particular acr^unt of them, as well as the track of the frigate correctly laid down, and all the details of the interesting ex* pedition, were immediately forwarded to Spain." Anxiety for the fate of the missionaries left at Otaheite prompted a third visit ; and, on the 27lh September, 1775, the Agui'a, under the com- mand of Don Cayetano de Langara, once more set sail from Callao. After a voyage of thirty-six days, the captain anchored in the harbour of Oaitipiha. He found that the missionaries, who were determined to abandon their task, had made no progress in the conversion of the na- tives, and were so alarmed by the human sacrifices prevalent in the island, that nothing but a Spanish garrison would induce them to re- main. It was in vain that the commander called to their recollection their high and holy vocation, and exhorted them to persist in the glorious work they had begun. Having embarked in the Aguila, they returned to Cal- lao on the 17th of February. 1776. " II est remarquable," writes M. D*[Jrville," qu'd T^poquedes deux expeditions en 1772 et 1774, lea Espag- nolsn'aieiit pointsenti ni m£me soupconn^ queTaUti (Otaheite) et Mal- tea (Maitea or Osnaburg) pouvaient se rapporter aux lies Sagiitaria et Dezena, d^couvertes au commencement du xvii. siecle par leur compa- triote Quiros." iAj ^ 304 cook's third voyage. this measure, in an address so clear and judicious, that his own crew first, and afterward that of Captain Gierke, readily concurred in the proposal. On the 23d the vessels were removed to Matavai, where the calking and other operations could be more conveniently carried on. Cook found the sovereign, his ancient friend Otoo, as anxious as ever to relieve his wants by ample supplies of provisions, and to contribute to his amusement by sports and entertainments. In return for these important services, the Englishman made him various presents of poultry and other animals. Omai here conducted himself with such imprudence, that he soon lost the friendship and respect of the king and every chief of rank : '' He associated," says Cook, " with none but vagabonds and strangers, whose sole views were to {)lunder him ; and if I had not interfered, they would not have eft him a single article worth the carrying from the island." The voyagers here met with their former companion, Oedidee, who, in 1773, had accompanied them from Ulietea and visited the Tonga Archipelago, New Zealand, and the Marquesas, and who now took pains to evince his superior civilization by con- stant repetitions of " Yes, sir," or " If you please, sir." He entertained his ancient shipmates at a dinner of fish and pork — the latter consisting of a hog weighing thirty pounds, which was killed and served up at table within an hour. On the 14th of September the two captains mounted on horseback, and rode round the whole plain of Matavai, '* to the very great surprise of a great train of people who attended on the occasion, gazing on them with as much astonishment as if they had been centaurs." Though this feat was repeated daily, the curiosity of the islanders continued unabated. They were exceedingly Klelighted with the animals, which perhaps impressed them with a higher notion of the greatness of Eu- ropean nations than all the novelties previously exhibited. On the 22d the commander submitted to a native cure for a rheumatic affection, under which he at that time laboured. The process, called ramee, and generally performed by females, was of the same nature with that to which Wallis and two of his officers had been su^ected. " I was desired," says he, " to lay myself down. Then, as many of them as could get round me began to squeeze me with both hands, from head to foot, but more particularly on the parts where the pain was lodged, till they made my bones crack, and my flesh became COOK S THIRD VOYAGE. 305 lOUB, that his lerke, readily atavai, where conveniently i friend Otoo, le supphes of by sports and services, the Itry and other h imprudence, the king and Cook, "with news were to i^ould not have n the island." .nion, Oedidee, tea and visited Marquesas, and ization by con- tase, sir." He f fish and pork pounds, which ir. IS mounted on atavai, " to the lO attended on itonishment as was repeated ibated. They hich perhaps tatness of £u- exhibited. jative cure for time laboured, ^ed by females, [lis and two of [red," says he, as could get >, from head to the pain was flesh became i perfect mummy. In short, after undergoing this discipline about a quarter of an hour, I was glad to get away from them. However, the operation gave me immediate reHef, which rn- couraged me to submit to another rubbing-down before I went to bed ; and it was so effectual, that I found myself pretty easy all the night after. My female physicians repeated their prescription the next morning, and again in the evening ; after which I found the pains entirely removed."* The repeated visits of Cook had created a persuasion among the natives that the intercourse would be continued ; and Otoo enjoined him to request the Earee rahie no Preiane, the King of Britain, to send him, by the next ships, fid feath- ers, with the birds which produced them, also axes, musketf^ powder, shot, and horses. He followed this solicitation with an assurance that, should the Spaniards, who had recently been there, return, he would not permit them to occypy Ma^ tavai Fort, which he said belonged to the English. This remark showed with what facility a settlement might be made at Otaheite, which, however, the great navigator hoped would never happen ; apprehending that, conducted as most European establishments among savage nations have unfortu- nately been, it would give the people just cause to lament that their island had ever been discovered. " Indeed," he adds, " it is very unlikely that any measure of this kind should ever be seriously thought of, as it can neither serve the purposes of public ambition nor of private avarice ; and, without such inducements, I may pronounce that it will never be underta- ken."! * Voyage to the Pacific, vol. ii., p. 63. t Idem, vol. ii., p. 77. Cowper would seem to have had this passage in his view when he wrote his verses on Oinai, which thus conclude : — << We round no bait , t To tempt us in thy country. Doing good, , ^ ^ Disinterested gar to thee as once ? And have thy joys Lost nothing by comparison with ours! Rude as thou art (for we returned thee rude ' And ignorant, except of outward show), I cannot think thee yet so dull of heart And spiritless, as never to regret Bweets tasted here, and left as soon as known. Methinks I see thee straying on the beach. And asking of the surge that bathes thy fbot If ever it has wash'd our distant shore. I 8«e thee w^'ep, and thine are honest tears, A patriot's for his country : thou art sad At thought of her forlorn and abject state, From which no pow'r of thine can raise her up. Thus Fancy paints thee, and, though apt to err, Perhaps errs little, when she paints thee thus. She telU me, too, that duly every morn Thou climbSt the mountain-top, with eager eye Exploring far and wide the wat'ry waste For sight of ship fVom England. Ev'ry speck Seen in the dim horizon turns thee pale With conflict of contending hopes and fears. But comes at last the dull and dusky eve. And sends thee to thy cabin, well prepared To dream all night of what the day denied."* How different from this was the real life of Omai ! Speed* fully narrated (Vom the original MS. Lond., 1781, Bvo. Analyzed in the Gentleman's Magazine, vol. 11., p. 231-334, 278, 279. * The Task, book i. i I t t t s r c 4 t( a COOK^S THIRD VOYAGE. 309 ily abandoning his European dress, and adopting the costume of the islanders, he sank into their indolence, barbarism, and vice. The horses which were left with him, he regarded only as means of exciting the fear or the wonder of his coun- trymen ; and, far from lamenting their forlorn state with ths tears of a patriot, his childish vanity found constant gratifica- tion in the superiority which the English presents enabled him to assume. His firearms rendered him a powerful subject, and secured for him the hand of his sovereign's daughter, with the dignity or title of Paari (wise or instructed). Hence- forth he continued the inglorious tool of the king's cruel and wanton humour, assisting him with his musket in time of war, and in peace frequently amusing the monarch by shooting at his subjects at a distance, or gratifying his revenge by de- spatching with a pistol in the royal presence those who had in- curred his wrath. He died within three years after his cele- brated voyage, and the New Zealanders did not long outlive liira. It was expected by many that, by imparting the arts and civilization of Europe, he would acquire the title of his coun- try's benefactor ; but his name is now rarely mentioned except with contempt or execration. The site of his dwelling is by the natives still called Beritani (Britain) ; and amid the ruins of the garden they show a dark and glossy-leaved shaddock- tree, which they love to tell was planted by the hands of Cook. The horses which he left did not long survive, but the breed of goats and pigs yet remains ; many of the trinkets, part of the armour, and some of the cutlasses, are also pre- served, and the numerous coloured engravings of a large quarto Bible are objects of general attraction. There is, per- haps, no place in the island to which greater interest is at- tached ; for, besides its associations with the names just men- tioned, on this spot was reared the first building in which the true Grod was publicly worshipped in Huaheine ; and here also was erected the first school for the instruction of the be- nighted inhabitants in the knowledge of letters and the prin- ciples of Christianity.* Cook now stood over for Ulietea, where he moored on the 4th of November. A few days afterward, a marine, yielding to the enticements of the natives, deserted wi h his musket and accoutrements. He was speedily apprehended ; but little * Ellis, Polynesian Researches, vol. U., p. 364-37S. 310 COOKS THIRD VOYAGE. more than a week had elapsed when a midshipman and a sailor were missing from the Discovery. Captain Gierke set out in quest of the fugitives, but returned after a fruitless day's toil, impressed with the belief that the inhabitants were de- sirous to conceal them. The commander resolved to under- take the search in person ; but he proved not more fortunate than his colleague ; and, as a last resort, he determined to detain the chiefs son, daughter, and son-in-law, till the de- serters were delivered up. Oreo, deeply alarmed for the safety of his family, lost no time in making every exertion for the recovery of the runagates ; while the common people be- wailed the captivity of such eminent personages with long and loud exclamations of sorrow. Not trusting for their release to the stipulated condition, ojr too impatient to await its ful- filment, they formed a conspiracy to secure the person of Cook and that of his second in command. The former had been accustomed to bathe every evening, often alone, and always without arms ; but, after confining the chief's family, he deemed such exposure imprudent ; and, at the same time, cautioned his officers against going far from the ships. Oreo betrayed his knowledge of the design by repeatedly asking him if he would not go to the bathing-place. Being thus dis- appointed, it was determined to seize on Messrs. Clerke and Gore, who had landed ; and, accordingly, a party of the natives armed with clubs advanced against them, while some canoes were preparing to intercept their retreat to the ship. A few shots, though they fortunately wounded no one, dispersed these assailants ; and the next night, the deserters having been recovered, the prisoners were set at liberty. On the seventh December the voyagers quitted Ulietea and steered for Bolabola, in order to purchase an anchor which had been lost by Bougainville at Otahcite, and brought hither by the natives as a present to the warlike Opoony. Cook's wish to possess it arose, not from his being in want of such an implement, but from the necessity of having iron tools to trade with, and from his original stock being exhausted. He lost no time, therefore, in offering for it a nightgown, a shirt, some gauze handkerchiefs, a looking-glass, some beads, with other toys, and six axes. At the sight of these last articles there was a general shout, and the chief refused to accept the com- modities till the English were put in possession of the anchor. It was found to be so greatly mutilated, that Opoony probably ipman and a in Gierke set fruitless day's nts were de- lved to under- lore fortunate letermined to IT, till the de- rmed for the y exertion for on people be- with long and r their release await its ful- erson of Cook mer had been le, and always Ps family, he \e same time, i ships. Oreo eatedly asking Being thus dis- rs. Gierke and of the natives some canoes ship, A few me, dispersed lerters having iiitted Ulietea anchor which )rought hither ony. Cook's ant of such an tools to trade ted. He lost , a shirt, some is, with other articles there cept the cora- of the anchor, oony probably COOK S THIRD VOYAGE. 311 considered it quite inadequate to the value of the goods pro- posed in exchange ; but our navigator, gratified by the fair conduct of the chief, took it, and sent in return all the articles originally intended. The Bolabola men were esteemed in- vincible by their neighbours, and had extended the fame, if not the terror of their arms, as far as to Otaheite. The present of the anchor was a proof of the awe in which they were held ; nor was this the only gift which they had acquired, for a ram, left by the Spaniards, had been transported hither from the same island. The captain, on being informed of this fact, put a ewe on shore, in hopes of producing a breed of sheep. At Ulietea he left pigs and goats, and from the numerous presents which he had dispensed, he was of opinion, that in a few years this archipelago would be stocked with all the valuable domestic animals of Europe. ** When once this comes to pass," he remarks, " no part of the world will equal these islands in variety and abundance of lefroshmcnts for navigators. Indeed, even in their present statu, I know no place that excels them. After repeated trials in the course of several voyages, we find, when they are not disturbed by intestine broils, but live in amity with one another, which has been the case for some years past, that their productions are in the greatest plenty ; and particularly the most valuable of all the articles, their hogs."* On the eighth of December he took his departure from Bola- bola, and made sail to the northward. Seventeen months had elapsed since he left England, yet he was aware, " that with regard to the principal object of his instructions, the voyage was at this time only beginning." He had now reached the limits of his former navigation, and entered upon a region rarely traversed, and never thoroughly explored. In the night between the 22d and 23d he crossed the equator in longitude 203° 15' E. ; and soon after daybreak on the 24th saw a low island, of a very barren appearance, on which he bestowed the title of Christmas. It was uninhabited, was about fifteen or twenty leagues in circumference, and of semicircular form. No fresh water could be found on it, and only a few low trees ; but it abounded with turtle, of which about 300 were caught, " of the green kind, and perhaps as good as any in the world." * Voyage to the Faciflc, rol. ii., p. 134. 312 COOKS THIRD VOYAGE. Man of Sandwich Isltinds in a Mask. The voyagers weighed anchor on the 2d January, 1778, and resumed their course towards the north, favoured by serene skies and gentl6 breezes. On reaching the latitude of 10^ 30' N., various birds and turtles were seen every day, and regarded as indications of the vicinity of land. None, how- ever, was discovered till the morning of the 18th, when an island appeared, bearing northeast by cast ; soon after another was seen be^Jr.r: north ; and on the 19th a third in a west northwest aiicction. Doubts were entertained whether the Fccond, which lay most convenient for approach, had any in- habitants, till some canoes came off, having in each from three to six men, who, to ihe agreeable surprise of our navigators, spoke the language of Otaheite. Though easily prevailed on to come alongside, they could not be persuaded to venture on CaaK'S THIRD VOYAGE r 313 I iry, 1778, and red by serene titude of 10<^ • ?ery day, and None, how- 8th, when an after another lird in a west whether the J, had any in- ach from three ur navigators, y prevailed on to venture on board. The name of their island was ascertained to be Atooi or Tauai ; they were of a brown complexion, and a consider- able diversity was observable in their features, some of which were not very different from those of Europeans. The greater number had their hair, which was naturally black, but died of a brown colour, cropped short ; others permitted it to flow unconfined in loose tresses ; and a few wore it tied in a bunch on the crown of the head. In general they had beards ; no ornaments were observed on their persons, nor were their ears bored ; some showed punctures on their hands or near the groin ; and the pieces of cloth worn by them were curi- ously stained of various hues. On certain rare occasions they wore a kind of mask^ made of a large gourd, with a perfora- tion for the eyes and nose ; the top was adorned with small green twigs, and from the lower part hung strips of cloth. No anchorage being found here, the vessels bore away to leeward, when the canoes departed ; but as the discoverers sailed along the coast others succeeded, bringing roasting-pigs and some fine potatoes, which the owners readily exchanged for whatever was offered to them. Several villages were seen, some on the margin of the sea, others in the interior of the country ; and the inhabitants were perceived thronging to the shore for the purpose of viewing the ships, which passed the night standing off and on. In the morning, as they were moving towards the land, several canoes approached, and some of the natives had the courage to come on board. Never before, in the course of his voyages, had our navigator beheld such astonishment as these savages displayed. Their eyes wandered from one object to another in restless amaze- ment ; they endeavoured to seize every tiling they came near ; and the wildness of their looks and actions proved them to be totally unused to European visiters, and ignorant of all their comhiodities — iron alone excepted ; and of this it was evi- dent that they had merely heard, or obtained a small quantity at a distant period. When asked what it was, they replied, " We do not know ; we only understand it as toe or hamaite" — the former signifying a hatchet, and the latter, probably re- ferring to some native instrument, in the construction of which iron might be advantageously substituted for stone or bone. When beads were shown to them, they inquired, " whether they should eat them." When their use was explained, they were given back as of no value, and a looking-glass was re- Dd ^1 314 cook's third voyage. ^i' i garded with equal indifference. Plates of earthenware and china cups were so new to their eyes, that they asked if they were made of wood. About three o'clock the vessels succeeded in anchoring, and Cook rowed to the land with three armed boats and a party of marines. ♦• The very instant," he says, " I leaped on shore, the collected body of the natives all fell flat upon their faces, and remained in that very humble posture till by expressive signs I prevailed upon them to rise. They then brought a great many small piss, which they presented to me, with plantain-trees, using much the same ceremonies that we had seen practised on such occasions at the Society and other islands ; and a long prayer being spoken by a single person, in which others of the assembly sometimes joined. I ex- pressed my acceptance of their proffered friendship, by giving them in return such presents as I had brought with me front the ship for that purpose."* The same deferential obeisance was afterward paid to him during an excursion which he made through the country ; and he believed it to be the mode in which the natives manifested respect to their own chiefs. The people assisted his men in rolling casks to and from the watering-place, readily performed whatever wad required of them, and merited the commendations of their visiters by fair dealinff ; there having been no attempt to cheat or to steal after the first interview. On the morning of the 23d a breeze sprung up at north- east, when, to avoid being driven on shore, it became neces- sary to stand out to procure sea-room ; and the adverse winds and cunents having drifted the vessels far from the harbour, after several unsuccessful attempts to regain it, they anchored off the neighbouring Island of Oneeheow or Ni-Hau. Here the captain deposited some goats, pigs of the English breed, and various useful seeds, which he had intended for Atooi. The provisions obtained at these islands were reckoned suffi- cient for nearly four weeks' consumption ; and, having thus recruited his stores, on the 2d of February he made sail with a gentle breeze to the northward. " Of what number," he says, "this newly-discovered archipelago consists, must be left for future investigation." Besides those visited, three others were ^seen, Woahoo or Oahu, Oreehoua, Tahoora or * Voy«ge to the Pacific, vol. ii., p. 198. C0OK*8 THIRD VOYAGE. 315 Taura. This group, lying between the latitude of 21° 30', and 22° 15' N., and 199° 20', and 201° 30' east longitude, re- ceived, in honour of the first lord of the Admiralty, the name of the Sandwich Islands. On the 7th the wind, having veered to southeast, enabled the voyagers to steer northeast and east till the 12th, when another change induced them to stand to the northward. About a fortnight after, when proceeding more towards the east, they met with rockweed or sea-leek, and now and then a piece of wood floated past. During the whole of this course, scarcely a bird or living creature was seen ; but on the 6th of March two large fowls settled near the ships. The next day two seals and several whales were observed ; and the dawn of the 7th revealed the anxiously-expected coast of New Albion, in latitude 44° 33' N., longitude 235° 20' £. It was richly wooded, of moderate height, and diversified with hills and valleys. To its northern extremity Cook gave the name of Cape Foulweather, from the gales which he expe- rienced in its vicinity, and which obliged him to tack off and on several days. At length, after various hazards, a large opening was observed on the 29th, in latitude 49° 15' N., longitude 233° 20' £., and from its promising appearance re- ceived the title of Hope Bay. Into this inlet he sailed four miles, when the night closing in, he came to anchor in deep water, within a hawser's length of the shore. It was certain that the country was inhabited ; a village was observed on the western side of the sound ; and three canoes shaped like Norway yawls came off. When they drew near, a native rose and made a long oration, apparently in- viting the strangers to land, and at the same time he continued strewing feathers towards them, while some of his companions scattered handfuls of red powder. The speaker, who was dressed in the skin of an animal, held in each hand a kind of rattle ; and when he sat down, another began to declaim in his turn, in a language wholly unintelligible to their visiters. They then quietly conversed among themselves, betraying neither distrust nor surprise ; some of them occasionally stood up and made harangues ; and one sang a very pleasant air, with a softness quite unexpected. The next day the vessels were removed to a safer anchor- age, amid a great concourse of the inhabitants. Their dispo- sition was quiet and friendly, and they willingly supplied the 316 cook's third voyaoe. Man of Nootka Sound. voyagers with such provisions as they possessed, though their refusal to accept any thing but metal in exchange gave rise to some perplexity. They preferred brass to iron ; and we are told that, to gratify their demands, " whole suits of clothes were stripped of every button, bureaux of their furniture, and copper kettles, tin canisters, candlesticks, and the like, all went to wreck." The name of the sound was Nootka; and the natives are described as being under the common size, with full round visages and small black eyes. In many indi- viduals the ears were perforated in two or three places, for the purpose of suspending bits of bone, quills fixed on a thong of leather^ shells, bunches of woollen tassels, or pieces of tlun copper. Ornaments of iron, brass, or copper, shaped like a horse's shoe, were frequently introduced into the septum of the nose, from which they dangled over the upper lip. The sexes so neaily resembled each other in dress and stature, COOK 8 THIRD VOYAGE. 317 jr^ 1. 1 ■"•'" ■ .i eovery (London, 1819), p. 223. 320 COOK S THIRD VOYAGE. The commander sailed hence on the 20th, and ptmued his course along the coast, which now trended to the southward. On the 23d he reached an opening to the north, into which he steered the ships, in the expectation of finding the desired ter- mination of the American continent. It was, however, soon discovered to be only an inlet or an arm of th«; sea leading to the mouths of two rapid streams : no name was bestowed on it at the time, but the Earl of Sandwich afterward directed that it should be called Cook's River. Eleven days were spent in its examination, and the vessels did not clear its entrance before the 6th of June. They now sailed southwestward along the great promontory of Alaska, passing several islands in their course, till the 19th, when some natives came off and delivered a wooden box, containing a note written in Russian characters. Unfortunately these were unintelligible to the voyagers, but they deciphered the dates 1776 and 177S ; and the obtain was of opinion that it was a paper left by Russian traders to be delivered to wy of their countrymen who should next visit these regions. On the 26th the vessels reached a large island, which was found to be one of the Aleoutian or Fox Archipelago, called Nowan Alsacha or Oonalaska ; and two days uter they came to an anchor in the small bay of Samgonoodha* on its southeastern shore. On the 2d of July they again made sail, and, doubling Cape Oonamak, coasted the northern side of the peninsula till they arrived at a large bay, which received the name of Bristol, while its northern point was called Cape Newen- ham. On the 3d of August they had attained the latitude of 62° 34' N., and on that day died Mr. Anderson, the surgeon of the Resolution. ** The reader of this journal,*' says Cook, " will have observed how useful an assistant I had found him in the course of the voyage ; and had it pleased God to spare his Ufe, the public, I muce no doubt, might have received from him such communications on the natural history of the several places we visited, as would have abundantly shown that he was not unworthy of this commendation. Soon after he had breathed his last, land was seen to the westward ; it was supposed to be an island ; and to perpetuate the memory of the deceased, for whom I had a very great regard, I namea it Anderson's Island."* * Voyagt to the Pacific, vol. ii., p. 439, 440. Barney's Cbn». Hist, of ■ i^ COOKS THIRD VOYAGE. 321 The discoverers were now at the southern entrance of Beh- ring's Strait, though, from the defective nature of the cburts then in use, they were not aware of this important fact. On the 5th they anchored near a small island o£f the continent, and Cook, after landing, gave it the name of Sledge, from having found one on the shore, though no inhabitants were seen.* Four days after, in the latitude of 66° 46' N., and lon- gitude 168° IS' W., he reached a remarkable promontory, the most westerly point of America yet known, to which he gave the title of Cape Prince of Wales. In the evening the coast of Asia came in view, when he stood across the strait, and having passed three islands,! anchored on the following morn- ing in a harbour of the Tschuktschi territories, where the natives, though much alarmed, received the voyagers with un- expected politeness, taking off their, caps and making low bows. From this port, which he named the3ay of St. Law- rence, he stood over to the northeast to prosecute his exami- nation of the American coast. On the 14th he was in latitude 67° 46', near a cape which was named Point Mulgrave, and bron. Hist, of Northeaat. Voyages of Discovery, p. S32-234. From the circumstance that AnderMn's Island han not been seen by snbsequent visiters, there might have been some grounds for questioning Cook's accuracy ; but Beechey has inrormed us, that he " discovered & note by Captain Bligh, who was the master with Captain Cooli, written in pencil on the margin x>r the Admiralty copy of Cook's Third Voyage, by which it is evident that the compilers of the c!iart have overlooked certain data collected off the eastern end of St. Lawrence Island, on the return of the expedi- lien (torn Norton Sound, and that t>ie land named Anderson's Island was the eastern end of the Island of St. Lawrence. Had Cook's life been spared, he wQi\ild no doubt have made the necessary correction in fais chart."— Voyage to the Pacific, vol. ii., p. 293. * The native name has since been ascertained to be ^yak ; and Cap- tain Beechey remarks the singular coincidence, that this word, in the lan- guage of the Esquimaux, signifies a sledge.— \oyige to the Pacific, vol. i., p. 40Q. t When in Bohring's Straits, in 1816, the Russian commander, Kotze- bue, fhncied that he saw four islands ; and as that which he conceived himself to have discovered considerably exceeded the others in site, he was surprised " That neither Cook nor Clerke should have seen it, as both their courses led them close by it ; and," he adds, " it has occurred to me that it may haye since risen fl'om the sea."— Voyage of Uiseovery into the South Sea and Behring's Si^raits, in the years 1815-1818 (London, 1821)1, vol. i., p. 198. But Captain Beechey subsequently found that Koizebud's supposed discovery has no existence, and that " the islands in the strait are only three in number, and occupying nearly the same situations in which they were placed in the chart of Captain Cook."— Voyage to the Pacific, vol. i., p. 335-338, and p. 399, 40a Iff ' 822 cook's third voyage. i f in- three days after he encountered a field of ice, dense and im- penetrable, extending from west by south to east by north, as far as the eye could wander. The following day he reached the parallel of 70° 44' N., when his progress was arrested by the ice, which was ten or twelve feet in height, and compact as a wall. The remotest jpoint in sight towards the east, named, from the glaciers which surrounded it. Icy Cape, lay in latitude 70° 29^ N., and longitude 161° 42' W., and nearly half a century elapsed before the limits of European discovery were carried beyond this dreary headland.* The season was now too far advanced to leave any hope that the great object of the voyage could be accomplished be- fore winter. Abandoning, therefore, all attempts to find a passage into the Atlantic, Cook turned his course to the south- ward, and, on the 2d September, passed the most eastern promontory of Asia, ascertaining the breadth of the strait, where narrowest, to be thirteen leagues. He coasted its western shorfts till he made the point called Tschukotzkoi Noss, when he again crossed to the American continent ; and having ex- plored the large gulf named Norton Sound, anchored on the 3d of October in Samgonoodha Harbour, in the Island of Oonalaska.t The natives of this place vvere the most peace- able and inoffensive people he had met with. Their stature was rather low ; then: necks short ; their faces swarthy and chubby, with black eyes and small beards. Their houses were large oblong pits in the ground, covered with a roof, which was thatched with grass and earth, so that, in external appearance, they resembled dunghills. Towards each end a square opening was left, one of which served as a window, while the other was used as a door, the ascent or descent be- ing facilitated by* a post with steps cut in it. * In I8S6, the expedition of Beectiey extended our knowledge of the American coasi 126 miles northenst of Icy Cape, to a promontory named Point Barrow, in latitude 71" 23' 31" N., longitude 71** 23' 31" W.~ Voyage to the Pacific, vol . i., p. 425. Progress of Discovery on the more Northern Coasts of America, p. 203. t " Here," my* Burney, " closed oar first season of nnrthpm discovery —a season ofunremitting activity. The ability and diligence exercised will best appesr by comjiaring the map of the world, as it stood previous to this voyage, with the map of me world drawn immediately after ; and by keeping in mind, that the addition of so large an extent of intri- cate coast, before unknown, was efilected by the labour of a single expe- dition, in little more than half a year."— Cbron. Hist, of Northeast. Dis* cov.,p.351. 86 and im- y north, as he reached anested by id compact 8 the east, f Cape, lay , and nearly n discovery e any hope iplished be- ts to find a to the south- lost eastern strait, where its western Noss, when 1 having ex- lored on the \e Island of most peace- heir stature Iswarthy and 'heir houses ith a roof, in external each end a a window, descent be- Iwledge of the lontory named las' 31" W.— ly OD tbe more Jipm discovery race exercised Vood previous idlately after ; jttent of tniri- [a single expe> Drtbeut. Dis* '1- COOK S THIRD VOYAGE. 323 A few days after their arrival, the captains were surprised by the present of a salmon-pie, baked in rye flour, which, with a note in the Russian language, was delivered to them by two natives from a distant part of the island. John Ledyard, af- terward distin^ished as a traveller, then a corporal of marines, volunteered his services to proceed with the messengers, and discover by whom the friendly gift had been sent. He re- turned after two days, with three Russian traders, whose visit was shortly followed by that of Mr. Ismyloif, the principal person in the island, with whom, as far as si^s and figures permitted, mutual communication of geographical knowledge and kindly intercourse took place. To this hospitable and ex- cellent individual Cook intrusted a letter to the Admiralty, enclosing a chart of his discoveries, which was faithfully trans- mitted. On the 26th our navigator set sail for the Sandwich Islands, where he now proposed to p&ss the winter, if he should find sufficient supplies of provisions. On the 26th of November, nearly in the latitude of 20° 59' N., he discovered Mowee or Maui, one of the Sandwich group, lying farther west than those visited in his voyage towards the north. The country seemed well wooded and watered, and the inhabitants were evidently of the same nation with the tribes to leeward. On the evening of the 30th another and a much larger island, Owhyhee or Hawaii, was discovered to windward ; and as he drew near its northern shores, the captain saw with surprise that the tops of the mountains were covered with snow to a considerable depth. Nearly seven weeks were passed in sailing round it in search of a harbour ; but at length a large bay named Karakaooa was observed on the western side, and he came to anchor on the morning of the 17th January, 1779. " I had nowhere," says he, " in the course of my voyages, seen so numerous a body of people assembled at one place ;" the ships were covered with the natives ; vast multitudes came off in canoes ; many hundreds were swimming around " like shoals of fish," and even the shores of the bay were thronged with spectators. One feeling of pleasure seemed to pervade this great crowd, and was expressed in shouts, in songs, and a variety of wild and extravagant motions. In gazing on the lofty vessels of the English, the people of Owhynee beheld the fulfilment of an ancient prophecy. At an early period of their history, when the peace and plenty of •|i i u ri 324 COOKS THIRD VOYAGE. \'' IH the golden ase prevailed amongthem, there lived, near Kara- kaooa, a god named Rono. The beautiful goddess Opuna having proved unfaithful to his bed, he threw her from the summit of a precipice ; but soon becoming frantie with re- morse, he roamed throughout the islands, boxing and wres- tUng with every one he could meet. Having deposited the mangled body of his consort in a morai, near the bay, he re- mained there for a long time in the deepest dejection and sor- row, and at length determined to quit the country where so many objects reminded him of his loss and of his crime. He accordingly set sail for a foreign land in a strangely-shaped canoe, having promised that he would one day come back on a floating island, furnished with all that man could desire.* After his departure he was worshipped as a god, and an- nual games were established in his honour. The ifulfilment of his assurance to return was eagerly looked for ; and when the vessels under Cook arrived, it was believed that the pre- diction had come to pass ; the ships were regarded as motus or islands, and their commander was hailed as the long-absent Rono, who had at length reappeared to restore the xei^ of content and happiness. t It. is to be regretted that this be- lief was not known to the English ; and in perusing the fol- * The American missionaries have preserved one of the songs in which this tradition is imbodied, entitled O Rono Akua. 1. Rono, Etooah (or Akua, that is, God] of Hawaii, in ancient times resided with his wife at Karakaooa. 3. The name of the goddees, his love, was Kaikiranee-Aree-Opuna. They dwelt beneath the steep rock. 3. A man ascended to the summit, and, fh>m the height, thus addressed the spouse of Rono :— 4. " Oh Kaikiranee-Aree-Opuna, your lover salutes you. Keep this- remove that; one 'will still remain." 5. Rono, overhearing this artlul speech, killed his wifb with a hasty stroke. 6. Sorry for this rash deed, he carried to a moral the lifeless body of his wife, and made great waii over it. 7. He travelled through Hawaii in a state of phrensy, boxing with every man he met. 8. The people, astonished, said, ** Is Rono entirely mad 1" He replied, " I am firantic on her account, I am fVantic with my great love." 9. Having instituted games to commemorate her death, he embarked in a triangular boat \piama lau], and sailed to a foreign land. 10. Ere he departs a he prophesied, " I will return in after times, on an island bearing cocoanut-irees, and swine, and dogs."— Voyages of H. M. 8. Blonde to the Sandwich Islands (London, 1826), p. 20. t Ellis's Polynesian Researches, vol. iv., p. 134. Kotzebue's Voyage round th« World In 1823- 1886 (London, 1830), vol. i., p. 16M69, and pv cook's third voyaob. 325 acar Kara- ess Opuna r from the ic with re- and wres- posited the bay, he re- on and sor- y where so :rime. He gely-shaped me back on desire.* od, and an- e fulfilment ; and when hat the pre- ed as motus long-absent the reign of hat this be- sing the fol- iongB in which ancient times e-Aree-Opuna. thus addressed Keep thls- wiih a hasty relesB body of , boxing with " He replied, love." , he embarked nd. er times, on an yagesof H.M. abue's Voyage lOMM, and ^ lowing details of the divine honours and worship with which Cook was received, the reader must, in justice to him, beaar in mind that he was ignorant of their true intent. Shortly after the Resolution was moored, two chiefs brought on board a priest named Koah, who, approaching the captain with much veneration, threw over his shoulders a piece of red cloth, and having retired a few paces, made an offering of a small pig, while he pronounced a long oration. This cere- mony performed, the holy sage sat down to table, eating freely of the viands before him ; and, in the evening, the commander, with Messrs. King and Bayly, accompanied him on shore. On landing they were met by four men, bearing wands tipped with dog's hair, who advanced before them shouting a few words, among which Rono, or Orono, was very distinguish' able. Of the immense crowd previously collected, the whole had now retired, except a few who lay prostrate on the ground beside the adjoining village. Near the beach stood a morai, consisting of a pile of stones, fourteen yards in height, twenty in breadth, and forty in length ; the summit of tms erection was well paved, and surrounded by a wooden rail, on which were fixed several sculls. In the centre was an old wooden building ; at one side, five poles, more than twenty feet high, supported an irregular scaflold ; and on the other were two small houses, between which there was a covered communi- cation. The voyagers were conducted to this spot by an easy ascent, and at the entrance, where they saw two large idols with distorted features, they were met by Kaircekeea, a tall young man with a long beard, who presented Cook to the stat- ues, and having chanted a hymn, in which Koah joined, led him to that part of the morai where the poles were erected. Under these stood twelve images ranged in a semicircle, and before the idol in the centre was a high table, containing a putrid hog, pieces of sugarcane, cocoanuts, and other fruit. The priest, placing the captain under this stand, took down the carcass, and held it towards him ; then, addressing him in a long speech delivered with great fervour and rapidity, he dropped the animal, and led him to the scafibld, which both •scended, not without great hazard. At this time appeared in 179-184. Voyage of the Blonde, p. 34-38. Monde, tome ii., p. 596. E K Freycinet, Voyage autowr da 886 COOK 8 THIRD VOYAGE* L.( i. if' solemn procession ten men, who bore a live hog and a-lai^« piece of red cloth, and, advancing a few paces, prostrated themselves and delivered the latter to Kaireekeea. He car- ried it to Koah, who, having wrapped it round the Englishman^ offered him the pig, which was brought with like ceremonv. These two personaees now began to chant, sometimes togeth- er asid sometimes utemately, while the navigator remained on the scaffold, swathed in red. When the song was over, the priest threw down the hog, and having descended with Cook^ led hii.i before the images, each of which he addressed, seem- ingly in a sneering tone, snapping his fingers as he passed, till, coming m front of that in the centre, supposed to be of higher estimation than the others, he threw himself prostrate and kissed it. The commander was desired to do the same, and, we aro told, " suffered himself to be directed by Koah throughout the whole of this ceremony." The party was next conducted to an- other division of the moral, sunk about three feet below the level of the area, where he was seated between two idols, the sacred functionary supporting one of his arms, and Captain King the other. When in this position a second procession drew near, bearing a baked pig, with bread-fruit and cocoa- nuts, the first of which Kaireekeea presented to him, and again began to chant ; while his companions made regular responses^ In which they frequently used the word Orono. On the con- clusion of this ritual, which occupied the fourth part of an hour, the natives, sitting down in front of the strangers, began to cut up the hog, peel tlie vegetables, and prepare ava, by the same process as that practised in Tonga and elsewhere. Part of a cocoanut was taken by Kaireekeea, and having been chewed by him and wrapped in cloth, was rubbed on the navi- gator's face, head, hands, arms, and shoulders. Then the ava was handed round ; after which the priest and another chief began to feed their visiters by putting pieces of the flesh into their mouths. " I had no great objection,'* says Gaptain King, '* to being fed by Pareea, who was very cleanly in his fierson ; but Captain Cook, who was served by Koah, recol- ecting the putnd hog, could not swallow a morsel ; and his reluctance, as may be supposed, was not diminished, when the old man, according to his own mode of civility, had chewet] it for him.'** This was the last part of the ceremony, am * Voyage to the Pacific, vol. UL| p. 8, prostrated He car- iglishmant ceremony, les togeth* iinained on B over, the ffith Cook, sed, seem- passed, till, 16 of higher I and kissed tnd, we aro tughout the iicted to an- , below the o idols, the nd Captain [ procession and cocoa- a, and again r responses, 3n the con- part of an igers, began ! ava, by the rhere. Part laving been on the navi- Then the and another of the flesh lays Captain eanly in his Koah, recol- sel ; and his ished, when had chewed remony, am COOK S THIRD VOYAOE. 327 the English, after distributing iron and other articles, quitted the morai, and were conducted to the boats by men bearing wands as before — the people again retiring, and the few who remained falling down before them as they walked along the beach. Several days passed without any event of interest ; the observatory was erected, supplies of provisions were procured, and the necessary repairs executed on the ships. Whenever the commander landed, a sacred herald marched before him, proclaiming the approach of Orono, and desiring the people to prostrate themselves. Offerings were made to him ; and, in a temple called Harre'no-Orono^ he was subjected to a repetition of the various rites with which he was worshipped on his first landing. The priests daily supplied both the ships and the party which was stationed on shore with hogs and vegetables beyond what was really needed, and not only without an expectation of return, but in a manner which be> tokened the discharge of a religious duty. When asked at whose instance these presents were made, the answer was, at that of Kaoo, their chief, and grandfather to Kaireekeea. This dignitary \v&% then absent, attending on Terreeoboo, the sovereign of Owhyhee and its dopendances. On the morning of the 24th the navigators found that the whole bay had been tabooed^ which had the effect of cutting off all communication between them and the natives. This ceremony was occasioned by the arrival of the king, who pri- vately inspected the ships, preparatory to a public visit on the 26th, which was attended with great state. In one canoe was the monarch with his chiefs, dressed in red-feather cloaks and helmets, and armed with daggers and long spears ; a sec- ond was filled with hogs and vegetables, and a third was oc- cupied by Kaoo, his priests, and their idols — gigantic images made of wicker-work and covered with small feathers of va- rious hues. The canoes having paddled round the ships amid the solemn chanting of the priesthood, made towards the shore, whither Cook soon followed. When he came into the royal presence, the king rose up, and gracefully threw his own mantle over the captain's shoulders, put a feathered helmet on his head, and a curious fan into his hand ; and lastly, spread five or six cloaks, all of great beauty and value, at his feet. The attendants then brought four large hogs, with sugarcanea and other vegetables ; and this part of the pageant closed 328 COOK 8 THIRD TOYAOB. with an exchange of names, the stronsest pledge of friend- ship. Shortly after appeared a sacerdotal procession, and a lengthened train of men bearing hogs and fruits, led by Kaoo, "who, having wrapped some red cloth round the person of the commander, gave him a small pig, and took his seat next the king. Kaireekeea and his followers then began chanting, while all the other grandees joined in the responses. When these formalities were over, the commander invited the mon- arch and several nobles on board his vessel, where they were received with every mark of respect. Kaoo and t(bme old chiefs still remained on shore ; while throughout the whole bay not a canoe was to be seen, and the people either kept within their dweUings or lay prostrate on the ground — the taboo still continuing in full force. The submissive demeanour of the natives had removed every apprehension of danger, and the officers freely mingled with them on all occasions. Wherever they went, refresh- ments, games, and recreations were presented, and even the boys and girls formed themselves into groups, and endeav- oured to please their visiters by exhibiting their skill in dan- cing. 1'he sole interruption to this amicable intercourse arose from the thieving dispositions of the islanders, which sometimes compelled the English to have recourse to acts of severity. Towards the end of January, the sovereign and his chiefs began to manifest an impatience for the departure of their guests. They imagined, it seems, that the strangers had come from a country where food was scarce, and that their principal object was to obtain a supply of previsions. " In- deed," says Captain King, '* the meager appearance of some of our crew, the hearty appetites with which we sat down to their fresh provisions, and our great anxiety to purchase and carry off as much as we were able, led them, naturally enough, to such a conclusion. To these may be added a circumstance which puzzled them exceedingly, our having no women with us ; together with our quiet conduct and unwarlike appear- ance. It was ridiculous enough to see them stroking the sides and patting the bellies of me sailors (who were certain- ly much improved in the sleekness of their looks during our short stay in the island), and telling them, partly by signs and partly by words, that it was time H)r them to go ; but if they would come again the next bread-fruit season, they should be cook's third voyaob. 329 if friend- on, and a by Kaoo, on of the L next the chanting, I. When the mon- they were (ft)ine old the whole ither kept ound — the I removed [y mingled it, refresh- i even the d endeav- :ill in dan- ntercourse ers, which to acts of his chiefs e of their nsers had that their jns. " In- of some it down to rchase and ly enough, cumstance )men with ce appear- roking the re certain- hiring our signs and rat if they should be better able to supply their wants."* The navigators had now been sixteen days in the bay ; and, considering the great consumption of hogs and vegetables, the desire expro8R<^ (or their absence can excite little surprise ; but, so far was the monarch from entertaining any hostile feeling towards them, when he made inquiry as to the day of sailing, that it is manifest he was actuated only by a wish to prepare suitable {^ifts for the occasion. He was told that the voyagers would eave the island in two days, and a proclamation was imme- diately made throughout the villages, commanding the inhab- itants to bring hogs and vegetables to be offered to Orono on his departure. At the time fixed, Terreeoboo invited the two commanders to visit him ; and, on arriving at his resi- dence, the^ saw the ground covered with parcels of cloth, a vast quantity of red and yellow feathers, and a great number of hatchets and other instruments of iron, procured in barter with the ships ; while at a little distance they observed a large herd of hogs, with an immense quantity of vegetables of every kind. The king, having set apart about a third of the ironware, feathers, and a few pieces of cloth, ordered the re- mainder of the robes, with all the hogs and vegetables, to be presented to the English, who were astonished at the value and magnitude of the donation, " which far exceeded every thing of the kind they had seen, either at the Friendly or Society Islands." Captain King was amon^ the last to quit the island, and the natives crowded round him, lamenting his approaching departure. They urged him to remain among them, and even made offers of the most flattering kind ; and when he informed them that Captain Cook, whose son they supposed him to be, would not quit the bay without him, Terreeoboo and Kaoo waited on the commander, and re- quested that his colleague might be left behind. Unwilling to give a direct refusal, he parted from them with a promise that he would revisit the island the succeeding year, and en- deavour to gratify their wishes. He sailed from Karakaooa Bay on the 4th of Febraary, with the intention of completing his survey of the archipelago. On the 8th he was still in sight of Owhyhee, when it was per- ceived that the foremast of the Resolution had given way iduring a gale which sprang up at midnight. Before thii ii^ * Voyags to the Paeifle, vol. UL, p. Ml £b2 330 COOKS THIRD VOYAGE. jury could be repaired, it was necessary to take out the mast •—an operation which could only be performed iu some secure ftnchorage ; and no other harbour having been discovered, it was determined to return to that which had been so lately quitted ; and on the 11th the vessels came to moorings nearly in the same place as before. That, and part of the ^ollowing day, were employed in sending workmen and materials on shore, together with the astronomical apparatus, under guard of a corporal and six marines ; and the friendly priests ta- booed the position against annoyance from the inhabitants. The voyagers were struck with the altered appearance of the bay, which was now silent and deserted, except by one or two canoes. Some individuals, indeed, came off with pro visions, but they were few in number, and the vast multitude which had been assembled on the former visit seemed to have dispersed on the departure of the ships. On the evening of the 13th several chiefs interfered to pre- vent the natives from assisting the sailors in rolling the water- casks ; and shortly afterward, the islanders armed themselves with stones, and became insolent and tumultuous. Alarmed by these indications. Captain King went to the spot ; and on his remonstrating with the leaders, they dispersed the mob, and allowed the casks to be filled in quietness. He then went to meet Cook, who was rowing towards the land in the pin- nace, and having communicated to him what had just passed, was directed, in the event of any attack on the part of the people, to fire on them with ball. In a short time after, they were alarmed by a continued discharge of muskets from the Piscovery, against a canoe which was seen paddling hastily to- wards the shore, pursued by a small boat. The commander, concluding th^ a theft had been committed, ordered King to follow him with an armed marine, in order to seize the delin- quents as they landed. These, however, escaped into the country, and Cook, having pursued them about three miles without success, returned to the beach, ignorant that the stolen articles had been recovered. Meanwhile the officer in the small boat, not content with this success, seized the canoe of the offender, when Pareea, one of the principal nobles, claimed the skiff as his property. A violent affray ensued, in which the chief was knocked down by a blow from an oar. This was no sooner observed by his followers than they at- tacked the English with a shower of stones, and forcing them COOKS THIRD VOYAGE. 831 at the mast oine secure scovered, it n so lately rings nearly le following naterials on inder guard priests ta- ibitants. pearance of )t by one or f with pro }t multitude ned to have ered to pre- g the water- . themselves . Alarmed )ot ; and on d the mob, e then went in the pin- just passed, part of the e after, they its from the g hastily to- commander, red King to ie the delin- ed into the three miles at the stolen ficer in the 1 the canoQ ipal nobles, fray ensued, from an oar. lan they at- forcing them to retreat, began to ransack a pinnace belonging to the Reso- lution, which would have been forthwith demolished, had not Pareea driven away the crowd. He made signs to the voy- agers to return and take possession of their Iraat, which they did, while he promised to use his endeavours to get back the rest of their property. As they were proceeding to the ships, he followed them, and restored the cap of Mr. Vancouver, one of the midshipmen, and some other trifling articles. He ap- peared much concerned at what had happened, and inquired ** if Orono would kill him, and whether he would permit him to come on board the next day." Being assured that he should suffer no harm, he joined noses with the officers, the usual token of friendship, and paddled o£f towards the village of Kowrowa. On learning these events, which had occurred during his pursuit of the fugitives. Cook appeared deeply mortified at their unfortunate result, and said to Captain King, *' I am tifraid that these people will oblige me to use some violent measures ; for they must not be left to imagine that they have gained an advantage over us." It was too late to take any steps that evening ; and this officer, having executed the or- ders he received to remove all the natives from the vessels, returned to the shore. Feeling less confidence in the barba- rians, he also posted a double guard on the morai where his party was lodged. About eleven o'clock, five men were olv served creeping round the building, who, on finding them- selves discovered, retired out of sight ; and, about an hour afterward, one of them, having ventured up close to the ob- servatory, a musket was fired over him by the sentinel, which put the whole to flight. No other interruption was offered, but " those who were on duty," says Mr. Samwell, " were disturbed during the night with shrill and melancholy sounds, issuing from the adjacent villages, which they took to be the lamentations of the women. Perhaps the quarrel between us might have filled their minds with apprehensions for the safety of their husbands ; but, be that as it may, their mourn- ful cries struck the sentinels with unusual awe."* * Narrative of the Death of Captain James Cook, &e., by David Sam- well, Surgeon of the Discovery (liOnd., 1786), p. 8. It may be proper here to indicate the rources fVom which the account given in the preeent work of the unfortunate transactions that took place during this and the fnUowiiig day has been drawn. They are, Ut, The relation of Captain I [5^ 332 COOK 8 THIRD VOYAGE. • With dayliffht of the next morning, Sunday the 14th, it vras discovered that the six-oared cutter of the Discovery had been stolon. It was moored to a buoy close by the ship, in such a manner that its gunwale was level with the surface of the sea ; and thouffh under the eye of the watch, it had been cut from its fastenmss and carried off without observation. On being informou of this theft, Cook desired his colleague to go on shore and endeavour to persuade the kins, Terreeo- boo, to exert his authority for the recovery of the Boat. Un- fortunately, Captain Clerke was so weak as to be unable to undertake the expedition, and the great navigator determined to go in person. At this time King came on board the Reso- lution, where he found the marines getting ready their arms, and the commander loading his double-barrelled gun. While relating the events which had occurred at the morai during the nignt, he was interrupted by the other " with some eager- ness,*' and made acquainted with the loss of the cutter, and the plan which he had formed for its recovery. This was, as on similar occasions,* to get possession of the sovereign, or some of the principal chiefs, and detain them till the stolen property was restored. In the event of this method failing, ho resolved to make reprisals on the vessels in the harbour, and with this view ordered three boats to stations near the outer points of the bay, with directions to give no molesta- tion to the small skiffs, but to prevent the departure of any large canoe. A little before eight oVlock Cook left the Resolution and rowed towards the village of Kowrowa, where the king re- sided. He landed with Lieutenant Philips, a sergeant, two corporals, and six private marines ; and as he proceeded to- Kinr in the Voyage to the Paciflo, vol. Hi., p. S5-53. 9d, the Narrative or Mr. Samwell, qaoted above. 3d, That of the late Admiral Bumey, in his Chron. Hiat. of Northeast. Vny. of Discov., p. 2&5-S66. (These writers were eyewitnesses or the whole or part or the events which they describe.] 4th, The anecdotes collected 'flrom a resident in and natives or the Sandwich Islands, by Mr. Mariner, in hie Account of the Tonga ArohipelaKO, vol. i., p. 79-74. 5th, The account gathered Ifom the na- tives by Mr. Ellis, Polynesian Researches, vol. iv., p. 130-138. 6th, The narrative of Kotzehue, New Voyage round the World, vol. i., p. 179- 180. As might be expected, theae auihoriiies exhibit various discrepan- ces, which it has been our endeavour to reconcile as fhr as possible. The account given bv Kotcebue has been used with considerable caution, ■s ito aoeuracy has been impeached. See Mr. Ellis's Vindication of tba Boath Sea Missions (Lond., 18S1), p. 13. • 8as above, p. Sa6, 890, 310. COOK 8 THIRD VOYAGE. 333 he 14th, it Bcovery had tho ship, in 9 surface of it had been ervation. is colleague Iff, Terreeo- boat. Un- e unable to determined d the Keso- their arms, ;un. While lorai during lome eager- cutter, and rhis was, as overeign, or 1 the stolen hod failing, he harbour, 18 near the no mulesta- ture of any olution and he king ro- rgeant, two [>ceeded to- be Narrative niral Bumey, S66. I These ts which they I and natives of the Tonga ifom the na- 38. 6^A,The ol. I., p. 179- us discrepan- as possible, rable caution* ication of tb* wards the hamlet he was received with all accustomed re- spect, the people prostrating themselves at his approst^h, and presenting him with small hogs. On inquiring for Terreeoboo and his sons, the latter, two youths, who had been his con- stant guests on board ship, came to him in a short time, and instantly conducted him towards the house whore their father was. On his way he was joined by several chiefs, some ol whom more than once asked if he wanted any hogs or other provisions ; to which he replied, that he did not, and that his Business was to see the king. On reaching the royal resi- dence, he ordered some of the natives to inform the monarch of his desire to speak with him ; but these, returning without an answer, only presented pieces of red cloth ; when he, sus- pecting from this circumstance that his majesty was not there, directed Lieutenant Philins to enter. This gentleman found the prince newly wakenea from sleep, who, though apparently alarmed at the message, at once came out. The captain took him by the hand, and invited him to spend the day on board the Resolution, to which he at once consented, and the party proceeded towards the boats — Terreeoboo leaning on the shoulder of the lieutenant, while his youngest son, Kaoowa, had reached the shor« and taken his seat in the pinnace. Cook was perfectly satisfied from what he had learned that the cutter had been stolen without the knowledge of the king. It was while these things were passing that the boats placed near the south point of the harbour, observing a large canoe endeavouring to leave the bay, fured several muskets over the heads of her crew, with the view of preventing their escape. One of the balls unfortunately killed a chief who happened to be on the shore ; and two islanders immediately proceeded to the ships to complain to the commander, and finding that he was at Kowrowa, followed him thither. Terreeoboo, accompanied by his English friend, had already advanced almost to tne water's edge, when his people, con- scious of transgression, began to put on their war-mats, and to equip themselves with spears, clubs, and daggers. One of his favourite wives came after him, and throwing her arms about his neck, with many tears and entreaties besought him to go no farther ; and with the help of two chiefs, she even forced him to sit down by the side of a canoe, telling him he would be put to death if he went into the ship. No ardour of expostulations could overcome their fears ; and the natives. 334 COOKS THIRD VOYAGE. i in the meanwhile, collecting in great force along the shore, began to throng around their sovereign. While they did so, an old priest advanced towards the captain, holding out a co- coanut as a present, and in spite of all entreaty or remonstrance singing aloud, with the purpose, it was thought, of diverting attention from his countiymen, who were every moment grow- ing more tumultuous. Perceiving the dangerous position in which the voyagers were now placed, and that his men were too much crowded together to use their arms with effect, the marine officer proposed to withdraw his party to some rocks close to the waterside, at the distance of about thirty yards — a measure which was promptly adopted, the crowd making way without reluctance. Previous to this, it is related by Mr. Samwell that Koah wa*» observed lurking near with an iron dagger partly concealed under his cloak, with the inten- tion apparently of stabbing Captain Cook or Lieutenant Philips. The latter proposed to fire at him, but was forbid- den by his commander ; the savage, however, still pressing nearer, the officer struck him with his piece, on which he re- tired ; another islander seized on the musket of the sergeant, and attempted to wrench it from his grasp, but a blow from the lieutenant forced him to abandon his hold. Terreeoboo remained seated, in a state of alarm and dejection, while our navigator urged him in the most pressing manner to proceed ; and such was the irresolution of the monarch, that his per- suasions might have prevailed, if the chiefs had not interposed, first with earnest entreaties, afterward with threats of vio- lence. The captain held the timid prince by the hand ; but seeing the general alarm of the natives, he let go his grasp, observing to Lieutenant Philips, that it would be impossible to force him (m board without much bloodshed, and that other means must be employed to recover the boat. The perplexed ruler was immediately taken away, and was no more seen ; while Cook, in company with the lieutenant, slowly turned his steps towards the beach. At this moment a native from the opposite shore of the bay rushed into the crowd, almost breathless, exclaiming, " It is war ! The foreigners have commenced hostilities, have fired on a canoe from one of their boats, and killed a chief !*'* This announcement occasioned a violent ferment ; the wo« * Ellis's Polynesian Researches, vol. iv., p. 131. cook's third yoyaoe. 335 ig the shore, they did so, ing out a co- remonstrance , of diverting loment grow- ls position in lis men were I with effect, arty to some ' about thirty d, the crowd 8, it is related r near with an ith the inten- r Lieutenant it was forbid- still pressing which he re- the sergeant, ; a blow from Terreeoboo Ion, while our r to proceed ; that his per- ot interposed, ureats of vio- le hand; but go his grasp, be impossible ind that other ?he perplexed more seen; dowly turned shore of the claiming, " It tilities, have edachiefr* ent ; the wo« 131. men and children immediately disappeared ; while such of the men as had not already armed themselves hastened to put on their war-mats and seize their spears. One of them ad- vanced towards Cook, flourishing a long iron spike or pAJkooat by way of defiance, and threatening to throw a stone which he held in his hand. Although called on to keep back, he continued to draw nearer, when our navigator considered it necessaiy to fire on him with small shot. The savace re^ ceived the full discharge on his thick mat, which he held up in derision, crying out, *• Mattee-manoo .'" — ^The gun is only fit to kill birds — and poised his spear as if to hurl it at his antagonist, who, unwilling to take away his life, knocked him down with the butt-end of his musket. The only object now contemplated by the discoverer was the safety of his party ; but the remonstrances which he addressed to the islanders on their turbulence were answered by a volley of stones, which brought down one of the marines. A native was observed in the act of d^urting a spear at him, when, in self-defence, he discharged his piece, but missing his aim, killed another near the assailant, who was equally engaged in the tumult. This viras instantly followed by a general attack with stones, which was answered by musketry from the marines, succeeded by that of the people in the boats. The captain, expressing his astonishment at the conduct of the latter, waved his hand towards them, and called on them to cease firing and pull close in to receive the marines. The pinnace accordingly ap- proached as near as it could without touching the ground ; but tile launch, apparently from misunderstanding the signal, was unfortunately drawn farther off. There was on that morning a considerable swell in the bay, and the surf on the shore was greater than usual, so that the boats were obliged to lie off on their oars ; and from the noise of the waves on the rocks, and the uproar of the multitude, it was impossible for them to hear their commander's orders with distinctness. The natives, contrary to expectation, had stood the fire with great firmness, and thougn they fell back at first, they advanced before the marines mi time to reload, and broke in upon them with frightful yells. After this all was horror and confusion. The soldiers were home down and forced into the water, where four of them were slain and three danger- ously hurt. Among the latter was the lieutenant, who, after he awA gained the pinnace, pereeinng one of his men left on Mtt! 1 336 COOK 8 THlRIi VOYAGE. the shore, gallantly leaped overboard, and, swimming to thcr rocks, succeeded m bringing him oil' in safety.* Cook, who had lingered behind, was now observed walking towards the boats ; he held his musket in one hand, and the other was placed asainst the back of his head, to protect it from the stones showered by the natives. A man followed him, but cautiously and timidly, stopping once or twice, irresolute whether to strike or not ; and it was remarked that, when the captain's face was towards the barbarians, none of them of- fered any violence. On reaching the water's edge, he turned about to give orders to the boats, when his pursuer, advancing, unobserved, struck him on the back of the head with a club or stave, and immediately retreated, t Stunned by the blow^ ho tottered forward a few paces, and then fell on his hand and knee, letting his musket drop, while a ;^ '^^it shout burst from the islanders. As he was rising, and be ^ ! e could regain his footing, another savage stabbed \a > le back of the neck with an iron spike, on which he a^w..i tell into a pool among the shelves, scarcely more than knee-deep. Unable to swim, and dizzy from the wounds he had received, he turned towards the rocks, and was immediately surrounded by the natives, who crowded about him and endeavoured to keep him under the water. He struggled violently against them, and succeeded in raising his head, when ho turned his eyes towards the pinnace, as if beseeching that aid which, in the confusion- * Bumey ootnpares this 'with a similar exploit performed durins the oruiseorihe NasMU Fleet off the coast or New Spain in November, IA24. A boat's crew, who had Isnded to procure water, f^il into an ambuscade laid by the Sfianiards, in which fc jr uf them loit their lives, while tlie rest were (breed to embarit in great concision. '> In the haste made, one man wm led behind on the beach ; but his captain, Cornelys dn Witte, who had gone hilnseir on ihle service, retoriwd to the shore in the Aiee oi' the enemy, and look him into his boat—* an act of generosity,' as i» justly observed by the French translator, ' worth a wound which hn re- ceived in his side, and of which he was afterward cured ' "—Bumey, Chron. Hist. Discov., vol. ill., p. 31, 33, Note. Hist, of Northeastern Discov., p. Wi. t Mr. Msriner was infbrmed thst this Individual was a native carpen- ter, and that he struck Cook, ''either in tlie aiiprehenslon thst he was at that moment ordering his men to incresse their Are, or not knowing him to be the extraordinary beinf (Rono)of whom he had heard so much ; fl>r he lived s considerable distsnce up the country, and was not person- ally acquainted with him. The natives hsd no idea that Cook could poasiblv be killed, ss they considered him a supernatural being, and were astonished when they saw him fldl."— Tonga Islands, vol. li., p. 74 Samwsll's Narrative, p^ 16. COOK^B THIRD VOYAGE. 337 ling to th# Cook, who owarUs the B other was it from the 3d him, but I, irresolute kt, when the of them of- B, he turned r, advancing, with a club by the blow, [US hand and t burst from sould regain back of the into a pool Unable to )d, he turned nded by the I to keep him A them, and eyes towards he confusion ned durlns thr ovember, |A84> an ambuscade tves, while the aate made, one lelys dK Witte, lore in the fliee leroniiy,' as 1» d which hii re- id » "— Burney, Northeastern native carpen- n that he was r not knowini^ leard so much ; as not person- at Cook could eing, and were vol. li., p. 7« of the scone, it was impossible to afford. Though again forced under water deeper than before, he was once more able to lift his head above it, and, almost exhausted, had laid hold of a rock for support, when a savage struck him with a club, and he was seen alive no more. They then dragged his body from the water, and were observed to snatch the daggers from each other's hands in order to pierce the corpse ; nor did they desist for some time, though a fire was directed against them from the boats, and several were seen to fall by the side of their victim.* When they at last gave way, a small skiff, manned by five ycjng midshipmen, pulled to the shore, where they saw the bodies of their companions lying on the ground without any signs of life ; but, considering it danfferous' to land with so small a force, they returned to the vessels, where the tidings of this great calamity spread universal sorrow and dismay. Animated by their success, the natives began to gather round the moral in another part of the harbour, where Captain King with some men had been left in charge of the astro- nomical instruments, the foremast of the Resolution, and the greater portion of the sails of both vessels ; but after a brief conflict, a truce was agreed to, and the voyagers were per- mitted to withdraw, carrying their effects with them, without molestation. The savages, however, seemed to be still bent on hostilities ; an immense concourse was drawn up on the shore, and several went off in their canoes till within pistol- shot of the ships, challenging the people on board with marks of defiance and contempt. In the afternoon King rowed to- wards the land, where he had an interview with some of the chiefs ; and, in answer to his inquiries after the body of his ' * The anxiety manifested by the islanders to mangle the body of oar great countryman was, at the time, commonly attributed to ** a savage eagerness to have a share in his destruction." But it has been remarked by Dr. Martin, that, "in all probability, this eagerness to seiie the dag- ger was prompted in each by the wish to be possessed of an instrament which had become consecrated, as it were, by the death of so gnat a man ; at least, this is presumed flrom what would liave been the senti- ment had it happened at the Tonga Islands.**— Mariner's Tonga Islands, vol. li,. p. 74, 75. That the seeming barbarity exhibited on this occasion arose (Vom some superstiiinus notion, such as that mentioned by Dr. Martin, Is a supposition virhich derives confirmation (Vom the belief which the islanders entertained with regard to Cook, fVom the tiooours after- ward rendered to his remains, and ttook the expressions need by the HHtives to Mr. Ellis—" After be was dead, we all wailed !**— Polyaesiaa Rtjsearchef, vol. iv., p. 132. Pf 338 COOK^S THIRD V0TA6K* late commander, was assured that it had been carried up the country, but would be restored the next morning. This prom- ise was not fulfilled ; but after nightfall of the 15th, a person who had constantly attended Cook when on shore, came ofT to the ship and presented to Captain King a small bundle wrapped up in cloth, containing a piece of flesh about ten pounds in weight. This, he said, was all that remained of the body of ^e unfortunate navigator ; that the rest had been cut off and burnt ; and that the head and all the bones^ except those of the trunk, were in the possession of the king and the chiefs. Before departing, be asked with gre&t anxiety, *' When Orono would come again 1" and "What he would do to them on his return 1" — questions which were frequently repeated by others. The impression of the islanders that the murdered leader was their ancient deity was not even yet wholly dissi- pated : and although some, when they saw his blood streaming and heard his groans, exclaimed, " This is not Rono !" others still believed in his divinity, and cherished the hope that he would once more appear among them. On the 17th a party, who landed to procure water, experi- enced so much annoyance from the inhabitants, that it was ne- cessary to bum down a few straggling huts which afforded them shelter. Those to whom tliis order was intrusted car- ried it far beyond the proper limits : the whole village was set on fire and consumed, with the house<) of the priests, at whose hands nothing but friendship had been tperienced. This act, followed by the death of several of the k ages, who were shot in attempting to escape from the flames, conveyed a suitable terror of the English power ; and, on the evening of the 18th, a chief came with presents from Terreeoboo to sue for peace. On the mortiing of the 20tb the mast of the Resolution was replaced, and the same day the remains of its lamented commander were delivered up to his successor, wrapped in a large quantity of fine cloth, and covered with a cloak of black and white feathers. " We found in this bundle," says Cap- tain King, " both the hands of Captain Cook entire, which were well known from a remarkable scar on one of them, that divided the thumb from the forefinger, the whole length of the metacarpal bone ; the scull, but with the scalp separated from it, and tne bones that form the face wanting ; the scalp, with the hair upon it cut short, and the ears adhering to it ; the bones of both arms, with the skin of the fore-arms hanging to* COOK S THIRD VOYAGE. 339 rried up the This prom- th, a person re, came oS mall bundle t ten pounds r the body of cut off and ;pt those of 1 the chiefs. Nheti Orona to them on repeated by le murdered wholly dissi- )d streaming •no !" other* ope that he ater, experi* at it was ne- ich afforded itrusted car- ilage was set Its, at whose [. This act, 10 were shot id a suitable •of the 18th, le for peace. i Resolution its lamented trapped in a loak of black ," says Cap- sntire, which of them, that length of the parated from e scalp, with ig to It ; the IS hanging to them, the thigh and leg bones joined together, but without the feet. The Ugaments of the joints were entire; and the whole bore evident marks of having been in the fire, except the hands, which had the flesh left upon them, and were cut in several places and crammed with salt, apparently with an intention of preserving them. The scalp had a cut on the back part of it, but the scull was free from any fracture."* The lower jawbone and the feet were restored on the morning of the 21st ; and in the afternoon, these remains having been enclosed in a cofiin, the burial-service was read over them, and, with the usual military honours, they were committed to the deep. " What our feelings were on this occasion," says Captain King, " I leave the world to conceive ; those wno were present know that it is not in my power to express them.'* Part of the bones, it may be observed, were retained by the natives ; and several of them, held sacred as those of the god Rono, were deposited in a temple dedicated to that deity. They were preserved in a basket of wicker-work, covered with red feathers ; religious homage was paid to them, and they were annually borne in procession through the island by the votaries of Rono, when gathering offerings for the mainte- nance of their worship. They were thus preserved and hon- oured for a period of forty years, until the abolition of idola- try, and the establishment of the Christian faith in 1819. At that date they disappeared, having probably been carried off by some of the priests, and the English missionaries have hitherto failed to discover their destination.! By the next day all was ready for sea, and on the 22d of * Voyage to the Paclfle, vol. iii., p. 80. t " AH thone," says Mr. Ellis, " or whom inquiry has been made, have uniformly asserted that they were formerly kept by the priests of Rono, and worshipped, but have never given any satisfhctory information as to where they are now. Whenever we have aslced the Icing, or Heva- taeva the chief priest, or any of the chiefs, they have either told us they were under the care of those who had themselves said they Itnew noth- ing about them, or that they were now lost."— Polynesian Researches, vol. iv., p. 137. Mariner*!* Tonga Islands, vol. ii., p. 73, The last-quoted author was informed " thit the nativeH of Owhyhee returned very few of the bones of Captain Cook, but chiefly substituted the bones of some otL;er Englishman who was killed on that melancholy occasion." Buc this statement seems to require corroboration. " Not only," says Mr. Ellis, " were the bones of Coolt worshipped, hut almost every relic left with them ; among other things, a sledge from the northwest coast of America, which they called Opaitauarii, a crab or shrimp for a chief to rest on." Vol. iv., p. 131 340 COOK S THIRD VOYAGE. February our navigators stood out of the bay ; while the isl* anders, collected in great numbers on the shore, received their last farewell with every mark of affection and good-will. After visiting other islands of the Sandwich group, about the middle of March they proceeded once more to the northward, and came to anchor in Awatska Bay in Kamtschatka near the end of April. They were most hospitably treated by the commander of that remote province, the celebrated Major Behm, who refused any remuneration for the liberal supplies with which he furnished them. They did not quit this friendly harbour till the I6th of June, "at least a month later," says Bumey, " than should have been desired, as, in a pursuit like ours, it was our business to be early in tlie year to the north." They reached Behring's Strait on the 5th July, and on the 19th attained the latitude of 70° 33'. Beyond this point, which was five leagues short of that which had been attained the previous season, they were not able to penetrate, nor did they succeed in advancing so far along the coast of either continent. On the 27th all farther attempts were abandoned, and the course bent to the southward. " I will not," says Captain King, " endeavour to conceal the joy that brightenea the countenance of every individual, as soon as this resolution was made known. We were all heartily sick ot a navigation full of danger, and in which the utmost perseverance had not been repaid with the smallest probability of success. We therefore turned our faces towards home, afler an absence of three years, with a delight and satisfaction which, notwith- standing the tedious voyage we had still to make, and the im- mense distance we had to run, were as freely entertained, and perhaps as fully enjoyed, as if we had been already in sight of the Land's End."* Three days after they repassed the strait, and on the 21st of August came in sight of the mountains of Kamtschatka. Captain Clerke had been long and seriously indisposed, and all hopes of his recovery had been for some time reUnquished by every one but himself. He died on the 22d, in the thirty-eighth year of his age, and was interred on the north side of the harbour of St. Fcter and St. Paul, where the vessels arrived two days after his demise. His body was attended to the grave by the officers and crews of the ships, and by the Russian garrison; the service was read by the Voyage to the Taciflo, to], iii., p. 360. COOK 8 THIRD VOYAGE. 341 e the isl- ved their about the )rthward, k near the d by the id Major * supplies is friendly ter," says rsuit like te north." I the 19th nt, which ained the r did they :ontinent. , and the a Captain tened the resolution lavigation e had not 388. We bsence of notwitb- id the im- lined, and in sight of the strait, untains of seriously for some ed on the terred on kul, >ivhere body was the ships, id by the priest of the settlement, amid the firing of minute-guns ; and the melaucholy ceremony was concluded by the discharae of three volleys from the marines. An escutcheon was placed in the neighbouring church, setting forth his age and rank, and an inscription of the same purport was affixed to the tree under which he was buried.* Captain Gore now assumed the command of the expedition on board the Resolution, while Captain King removed to the Discovery. The instructions from the Admiralty directed that, if the vessels failed to find a passage into the Atlantic, they should return to England by such course as seemed most likely to advance geographical knowledge. On this point Captain Gore requested the opinions of his officers, who unan- imously thought that the largest field for discovery, the sea between Japan and Asia, could not be safely explored in the present condition of the vessels, and that it was therefore ad- visable to keep to the eastward, along the Kuriles, and exam- ine the islands lying niearest the northern coast of Japan ; then to survey the shores of that country ; and, lastly, to mdce the coast of China at as northerly a point as possible, and run along it to Macao. Of this judicious plan only a small part could be carried into effect. The attempt to reach the islands north of Japan proved fruitless ; and the ships, driven from those latitudes by contrary vrinds, anchored at Macao eariy in December. The discoverers here received information of the public events which had occurred in Europe since the commence- ment of their voyage ; and, in consequence of the war which had arisen between Great Britain and France, they prepared their vessels for meeting the enemy. Fortunately, their pre- cautions were rendered unnecessary by the generous conduct of their adversaries. In March, 1779, the Court of Versailles issued orders to the captains of their ships, stating the objects of the expedition, and the advantages which would result from it to all nations, and directing that Cook should be treated as the commander of a neutral or allied power. This measure, so honourable to the French character, was, we are * f n 1787, the unfortunate La Pernnse placed a brass plate on tb<^ tomb of Captain Gierke: and more lately the RuMian admiral, Kruaenstern, erected a monument to his memory ; which, before Captain Beechey's visit in 1827, had, for better preservation, been removed to the governor** fardcn.— Voyage totho Paciflc, vol. ii., p. 34S. Fr2 342 COOKS THIRD VOYAOA. \>y the Marquii de Condorcot, adopted on the adTic* ilightened Turgot. Benjamin Franklin, then in informed h\ of the enl Paris as the plenipotentiary of the United States, addressed to tho officers of the American navy an earnest recommendation to spare the ships of '* that most celebrated discoverer Captain Cook." While lying at Macao, the sailors engaged in an active trade with the Chinese for the furs of the sea-otter, which they had procured, without any view to sale, at Cook's River on the North American coast. " One of our seamen," says King, "sold his stock for 800 dollars; and a few prime skins, which were clean and had been well preserved, were sold for ISO each. The whole amount of the value, in specie and goods, that was got for the furs in both ships, I am confi- dent, did not fall short of 2000/. sterling ; and it was generally supposed, that at least two thirds of uie quantity we had on- ginally got from the Americans were spoiled and worn out, or ad been given away and otherwise disposed of in Kamt- schatka. When, in addition to these facts, it is remembered that the furs were at first collected without our having any idea of their real value ; that the greatest part had been worn by the savages from whom wo purchased them; that they were afterward preserved with little care, and frequently used for bedclothes and other purposes during our cruise to the north ; and that probably we had never got the full value for them in China ; the advantages that mi^t be derived from a voyage to that part of the American coast, undertaken with commercial views, appear to me of a degree of importance sufficient to call for tne attention of the public."* The sea- men were astonished at the high prices which they received for an article they had so easily procured ; and their eagerness to return to Cook's Inlet, and by another cargo make their fortunes, led them to the brink of mutiny. The profits of the barter produced a whimsical alteration in the appearance of the crews, who, on their entry into the river, were clad in a motley mixture of rags, skins, and the rude cloth of the sav- age countries they had visited — garments which they soon ex- changed for the gaudiest silks and cottons of China. The ships todc their departure from Macao on the 13th January, 1780, and touched at tho Cape of Good Hope on the * Voyage to ibe racific, vol. ili., p. 4S5. THE CHARACTER OF COOK. 843 13th of April. They made the western coast of Ireland on the 18th August, anchored on the 32d at Stromness in Orkney, and arrived at the Nore on the 4th of October, after an ab- sence of four years, two months, and twenty-two days Du- rinff this Ions period the Resolution lost onlv five men by sickness, while no death had taken place in the Discovery.* Another circumstance attended this voyage, which, if we con- aider its duration, and the nature of the service on which they were engaged, will appear scarcely less singular, namely, that the two ships never lost sight of each other for a whole day together except twice. I CHAPTER XII. Observationt on the Character of Cook. Honours paid to him.— Personal appearance.— Temper and Habits.— His Children and Widow.— Energy and Perseverance.— Seir>edacation.— His vast contributions to Geography.— BliUl in delineating and flxing his Discoveries.- Discovery of tne means of preserving the Health or Seamen.- Advantages derived flrom his Voyages.— Progress oT CivlU* aation in Polynesia.— Conclusion. The tidings of the melancholy fate of Cook excited a deep and general sorrow throughout Europe, and distinguished honours were rendered to his name alike by foreigners and by his countrymen. The Royal Society caused a medal to be * The bark which bore Magellan in his eventnil voysge berame a fli> vourite theme with the poets and romancers of Spain ; and the ship in which Drake sailed round the globe received equal hononrB.a The des* tiny of the vessel of a greater eircumnavigator than either may be seen from the following notice :— *< Cook's old ship, the Discovery, wss, some time since, removed IVom Woolwich, and is now moored olfDeptlbrd as a receiving'Ship/or eonvictf.**— London Newspapers, August 90, 1834. a One of the otet to which '* (ha ship of (tmotia Dnao" wu iBplied, b pointed oat in the old pity of ** Eutwaid Hoe" (bjr Chapmu, Bod Jomod, and Meriton), when Sir F*. tronel rluh \m iotroduced.MviDf, "Well have oar provided eupper braufht aboani Sir Francia Dnke*! ship, that l»th compa i ied the world, where, with full cupe and baaqaoth we will do KcriAce for a proeperoui voyafte. Mjr mind f i*ea mo that ioaie food ipiril or the waten tboald hannt the denrt riba of her, and be anepieioiii to all thai boMur bar uammj. art rl" -"*• '"• — f* "- '*"'- -tt- *- *- '" w 844 OBIBRVATIONS ON THB •truck, containing on on« tide the heid of their Uto tiiocitte, with the inicription Jao. Cook, OoriANi Invbitioator Aork- RiiiUR ; on the other, the figure of Uritannim holding a globe, With the woids Nil Intrntatum nortri Liqurrr ; and on the exergue, Hru. Soo. Lond. 80010 ruo, and AuafioiiR Ororoii III. Hii majoRty conferred on the widow of Cook a penaion of two hundred pounda a year, and on each of hii , aons an annual ium of twonty-Hve pounda. Honourable ar- morial bearinga, aymbolioal of hia achievemonta, wore as- aigned to hia family. Sir Hugh Palliaer, on hia eatate in Buckinghamahire, erect- ed a monument to the memory of his old and dear friend ; in 1812, the pariahioncra of Marten placed a marble tablet to hia memory in the church where he waa boptized ; a bandHome obeliak, ftfly-one feet in height, waa built on the hill of EaRby, near Kosborry Topping, in 1827 ; and the oilicora of the Blonde raised on the place where the body of the diatin- guished voyager waa burnt a cross of oak, ton feet in eight, with tnia inscription ; — Sacred to tHe memory of Capt. Jamea Cook, R.N., who discovered theoa Islanda In the year of our Lord 1778. This humole monument Is erected ■-., by liiscounirvmen In the year of our Lord 1835. Few visiters leave Owhyhee without making a pilgrimage to the spot where its discoverer met his untimely end, and many carry away pieces of the dark lava-rock on which he atooa when he received his death-wound. The place is marked by the ruins-of a morai, and by some stunted cocoa-trees, in which the natives show perforations, produced by the balls fired on the fatal morning of the 14th February, 1779. In person. Cook was of a robust frame, and upwards of six feet in height. His head was small, and his face animated and expressive, though his prominent eyebrows imparted to U an appearance of austerity. His eyes, of a brown colour, though not largo, were quick and piercing: his hair, which was of a dark-brown hue, he wore tied behind, afler the fashion of the day. His constitution waa strong, and capa- CHARACTIR OF COOK. 345 ble of lutUining great labour : ho wm exoeodingly tomper- ate, and his atomach bore without diflkulty the cMraeat vi- ands. In hie addresa he was unaffected and retiring, even to bashfulness : his conversation was modest, lively, and agree- able ; although at times he appeared thoughtful, wrapped op in his own pursuits, and apparently under a pressure of men- tal fatigue when called on to speak upon any other. Like Columbus, he seems to have been somewhat passionate ; vet of him, as of the dicoverer of America, it may be said, that the quickness of his temper was counteracted by the benevo- lence and generosity of his heart. The calumny that his disposition was harsh, gloomy, and morose, haa been already disproved. '* He was beloved by his people,'* says Mr. Sam- well, *' who looked up to him as to a fattier, ana obegred his commands with alacrity ; the confidence we placed in him was unremitting; our admiration of his great talents un- bounded ; our esteem for his good qualities affectionate and sincere." Two representations of his features have been preserved ; one by Hodges, the artist who accompanied him in his second voyage ; another, which was executed by Dance, is now in Greenwich Hospital. It was at the pressing request of Sir Joseph Banks that Cook sat for this* picture, on the eve of his departure to explore the southern hemisphere, when all his thoughts were devoted to his arduous undertaking ; and hie active mind impatiently regretted every hour that oe was ab- sent from his duties. These circumstances mav account for the deep thoughtfulness and the stem expression visible in this delineation of his countenance ; for, while the painter was busy with his features, doubtless his mind was " occupied in great waters.*'* Few of his days were passed in the quiet scenes of pri- vate life ; but though his fortunes called him too often from the society of his family, not many men present a more amw able character as a husband and a father. His hours were divided between the instruction and amusement of his chil- dren, and the study of his favourite sciences — ^navigation, as- * Memoir of Cook In Gallery of Greenwich Hospital. " His widow,** says Mr. Looker, " has more than once expressed her regret that a por> trait. In all other respects lo perttet, sboald convey this erroneons ex* presEtlon to the eye of a stranger." f\. 346 OBSBRVATIONB ON THE 1 & tronomy, and mathematics. Ho was fond of drawing ; but did not take much delight in music or poetry, or in any of the pursuits of rural life. Captain Cook had six children, of whom three died in infancy. Nathaniel, when sixteen years old, was lost in 1780 with Com- modore Walsingham, in the Thunderer ; Hush, who was ed- ucated at Cambridge for the church, died m 1793, in his seventeenth year. James, who, at the age of thirty-one, was drowned in 1794, the only son who attained to manhood, displayed much of his fatner*s intrepidity. When pushing off from Poole to join the Spitfire sloop of war, of wnich he was the commander, he was advised to wait till the storm which was raging should abate : — " It is blowing hard,'* he replied, " but my boat is well manned, and has weathered a stronger gale ; we shall make the ship very well, and I am anxious to be on board." He perished in the attempt, along with the whole of his crew. The widow of the great voyager survived him for more than half a century. To the last she cherished the most de- voted affection for his memory ; and even after the lapse of so many years, could not speak of his fate without emotion. Such was her sensibility, that on receivinjp; tidings of the death of her son James, in the vain hope of banishing from her mind the recollection of her losses, she committed to the flames almost all the letters she had received from his father. For a long period she resided at Clapham, where her unaf- fected goodness and generosity secured universal love and respect. Her latter years passed away in intercourse with her friends, and in the discharge of those offices of charity and kindness jn which her benevolent mind delighted. The afflicting loss of her husband and children, though borne with submissive resignation, was never effaced from ner memory ; and we are informed that there were certain melancholy anni- versaries which, to the end of her days, she devoted to seclu- sion and pious observance. She died on the 13th May, 1S3J, in the ninety-fourth year of her age. Her body was deposited in a vault in the church of St. Andrew the Great, at Cam- bridge, where her sons James and Hugh were interred. To the parish in which she was buried she assigned 1000/., under the conditions, that, from the interest of that sum, the mon- ument she had erected to the memory of her family shall be CHARACTER 07 COOK. 347 ng; but y of tho infancy, th Corn- was ed- in his me, was lanhood, pushing mich he ic storm ard," he thered a id I am )t, along or more most de- pse of so emotion. [s of the ing from ed to the is father, ler unaf- love and irse with )f charity 3d. The ame with memory ; loly anni- to seclu- ay, lg3J, deposited at Cam- red. To 0/., under the mon- r shall be kept in perfect repair ; that the parochial clerg^onan shall re« ceive a small annual remuneration for his attention to the due discharge o( the trust ; and that the remainder shall be equal- ly divided yearly, on St. Thomas's Diy, among five poor and aged women rr^si'ling in the ipt-.^iih, but deriving no reHef therefrom. B«ir tiie iniUgertt Blind and the Royal Maternity Charity abcut IO(M>/. The Copley Modal awarded to bet husband, and tine of the gt;ld medair, ntruck in his honour by the Rcy&l Soirioty, sho cuquenthod *jo the British Museum.* The gfbiit cnarai;ifcri8tj<.;s of (^ook s mind v^rf energy and perseve:iu>cc Tly thi aid ct u^ jjc pioperMor., and stimulated by p,^ tionoorahle sinbujon, hi war %\\e, ffrMi the bustle and toil of activa service, not only Ut ii«<)ni, o n kiio«vle'lge of hia profession rarely e»;.ia)^clr not io Ruppiy the dfAciencies of a very imperfect eduj^tron, and :i.itn: himseU iu tiP, eminent station Airouff w.p,:\ oi literuture and 9cinnc»?. /.>t(iibehad reached his t year, v/ith no umsX(*/ico fvoir teachers^ he mastered, m the few leisure houra which fi<» situation af- forded, tho study of math/^niftti'je and r.; tronomy. Under similar nirriir'st&ncos, ho attained grt ai; profici&ncy in draw- ing. The liteiftry talent ncxi! inibruiridon displayed in the narratives of his second titi^ third circunimwigations will ever excite astonishment in ihot»e whc' refiecl on the few oppor- tunities for tho cuHivatiou of Ic^tvcrs v/hich their author en- * OenUcn'^'« mother died in 1765, aged 03; "the lomb* sione whic^. leaonln 'nee dtetif, and that of two sons and three daugb* tem. mot i,C whom died iii inlhncy, ie underRtood to huve been carved by lie.'. amom&, «vho aiiout ten years after removed fVom Ayton to Red- c'di to isperd tho evening of his days with his daughter Margaret, the «..'iib ofkr. James Fleck, a respectable (Isherman and shoplieeper. . . The fhther or Cook outlived his son only a Tew weeks : and never heard of his untimely end. He was interred at Marske, April 1, 1779, in the eighty*flfth year of his age. His son-in-law died a Tew years ago. The captain's sister bad three sons, all master mariners, and four daughters; her descendants are numerous. One only of Cook's nephews is living ; but three of his nieces yet survive."— Life and Voyages of Cook, by toe Rev. George Young (Lond., 1836), p. 16, 456. From the same source we learn that the elder Cook is said to have been bom at Bdnam, on the Tweed. About the timf that his son entered the nsvy he became a mSf son, and a house which be built for bis own residence •* Ayix^n Is stiU In lixistence. Here he was visited by his son in the l)x\ef iuit^r al be- tween bis second and third voyages. I 848 OBSERVATIONS ON THE \) joyed. His mental activity was conspicuous throughout all his voyages. "No incidental temptation," says Captain King, ** could detain him for a moment ; even those intervals of recreation which sometimes unavoidably occurred, and were looked for by us with a longing, that persons who hav« experienced the fatigues of service will readily excuse, wero submitted to by him with impatience." The immoveable con- stancy with which he pursued his objects was equally re« markable ; and there are perhaps few instances of perseverance on record more worthy of note than his survey of the coast of New Holland, carried on by him amid continual dangers ; or his search for a southern continent, in which he persisted in spite of every privation, concealing from all a dangerous illness that brought him to the brink of the grave. His courage and res- olution were invincible, yet unaccompanied with temerity ; his self-possession never failed ; and we are told, that, " in the most perilous situations, when he had given the proper directions conceminff what was to be done while he went to rest, he could sleep during the hours he had allotted to him* self with perfect composure and soundness." His mind was equally ready and copious, in resources ; and his designs were marked by a boldness and originality which evinced a consciousness of great powers. These characteristics wero demonstrated in the very outset of his first expedition, when, differing from the opinions of every one, he selected his ves* sel upon principles which the result most amply vindicated. It may be justly said, that no other navigator extendeu the bounds of greographical knowledge so widely as he did. Tho great question of a southern continent, which had been agi- tated ror morQ than two centuries, he conmletely set at rest. He first made known the eastern cbast of New Holland, more than 2000 miles in extent, and presenting perils of the most formidable nature. He ascertained the nortnem limit of Aus- tralia, and restored to Europeans the knowledge of the long- lost Strait of Torres. He dissipated the belief that New Zealand was a part of the Terra Australia Incognita, brought to light its eastern boundary previously unknown, and circum- naviffated its shores. He completed the labours of Quiros and later voyagers in the Archipelago of the New Hebrides, and first delineated an accurate chart of their coasts. He discovered New Caledonia, with cue exception the largest island in the Austral Ocean. He investigated the deptlw o* ing 'M.: CHARACTER OF COOK. 349 the Southern Atlantic, made us acquainted with Sandwich Land, fixed the position of Kerguelen's Island, visited the almost-forffotten Isla Grande of La Roche, and surveyed the southern shores of Tierra del Fuego with a fidelity at that time unprecedented. During this navigation, he twice crossed the antarctic circle, and attained a higher latitude than had been reached by any former voyager. He explored the Tonga Archipelago and that of Las Marquesas, neither of which had been visited since the days of Tasmaii and Mendana, and added greatly to our knowledge of their situation and produc- tions, their inhabitants, manners, and customs. Easter, or Edward Davis's Island, which had been sought in vain by Byron, Wallis, Carteret, and Bougainville, did not elude his researches. He greatly increased our acquaintance with the Low, or Coral Archipelago, and completed the discovery of the Society Islands. In other parts of the South Sea he brought to light the islands of Norfolk, Botany, Pines, Pal- merston. Savage, Hervey, Mangeea, Wateeoo, Otakootaia, Turtle, Toobouai, and Christmas. Along the northwest coast of America he effected more in one season than the Spaniards had accomplished in two centuries. Besides rec- tifying many mistakes of former explorers, he ascertained the breadth of the strait which separates Asia from the New World — a point which Behring had left unsettled. Passing the arctic, as he had crossed the antarctic circle, he penetrated farther than any preceding navigator ; and as more than half a century expired without a nearer approach being made to the Southern Pole than he had achieved, a like period elapsed before our knowledge of the American coast was extended beyond the point to which he attained. Among the latest and greatest of his discoveries were the Sandwich Islands, which, m the sentence wherewith his journal abruptly terminates, he truly characterizes as " though the last, in many respects the most important that has hitherto been made by Europeans throughout the extent of ^he Pacific Ocean."* But it would be injustice to him if we were to estimate his merits only by the extent, number, or importance of the coun- tries which he added to the map of the world. It has been remarked by a distinguished circumnavigator of a neighbour- ing nation, tlutt his labours created a new era in geographical * Voyage to the Paciflo, vol. U., p. 948. 350 OBSERVATIONS ON THE science.* Unlike his precursors, he was not content with being able to announce the existence of new lands, but de- lineated the bearing and figure of their coasts, and fixed their position with an exactness which can hardly be surpassed even by means of the improved instruments of our own days. While great errors have been detected m the longitudes of Byron and his successors, and still greater in those of the earlier voyagers, every succeeding navigator has borne testi- mony to the accuracy of Coolers determinations. So late as 1816, his chart of the southern coast of Tierra del Fucgo was characterized by Admiral Bumey as the best guide which the seaman possessed to that region. Of a more juvenile per- formance, his map of the shores of Newfoundland, the late surveyor of the island. Captain Bullock, speaks in terms of warm commendation. Praise equally high has been awarded to his representation of the coast of New Zealand by M. Crozet, the companion of the unfortunate Marion. *^As soon," s^s he, '' as I had get hold of the voyage of the English, I compared with care the chart which I had drawn with that taken by Captain Cook and his officers. I found it to possess an exactness and minuteness which astonished me beyond all expression. I doubt whether our own coasts of France have been delineated with more precision." La Pe- rouse never mentions the name of the great seaman without expressing warm admiration of his accuracy ; and M. D'Ur- ville assigns him the title of " fondatcur de la veritable g^o- graphie dans I'Oc^an-Pacifique : ceux," he adds, " qui sent venus aprds lui sur les mSmes licux, n^ontpu pretendre qu'au m^rite d'avoir plus ou moins perfectionne ses travaux."t Testimony of^no less weight has been borne to the correctness of his delineations of people, manners, and countries. " A residence of eight years in the Society and Sandwich Islands,'* says Mr. Ellis, " has afforded me an opportunity of becoming familiar with many of the scenes and usages described in his voyases, and I have often been struck with the fidelity with which they are uniformly portrayed. In the inferences he draws, and the reasons he assigns, he is sometimes mistaken ; but in the description of what he saw and heard there is * M. D'Unrille, Voyafe autour du Monde; tsme I., p. zU. t Voyage autour du Monde, tome i., p. xiii. n CHARACTER OF COOK. 351 throughout a degree of accuracy, seldom if ever exceeded in accounts equally minute and extended."* Great as are the contributions which Cook made to geo- ^phical science, they are perhaps surpassed in utility and importance by his discoyery of the art of preserving the health of seamen in long expeditions. The reader who has perused the details which have been given of the sufferings of Anson^s expedition, will not be at a loss to appreciate what praise is due to him who removed the scurvy from the list of diseases incident to a nautical life, and first showed that a voyage of three years' duration might be performed with the loss of but one man by sickness. To use the words with which he con- cludes the narrative of his second circumnavigation — " What- ever may be the public judgment about other matters, it is with real satisfaction, and without claiming any merit but that of attention to my duty, that I can conclude this account with an observation which facts enable me to make, that our hav- ing discovered the possibility of preserving health among a numerous ship's company for such a length of time, in such varieties of climate, and amid such continued hardships and fatigues, will make this voyage remarkable in the opinion of every benevolent person, when the disputes about a southern contment shall have ceased to engage the attention and to divide the judgment of philosophers."! Indeed, had he made no other discovery but this, he would be justly entitled to the praise and gratitude of mankind. There stul remains one important view in which his voyages must be regarded, namely, rs having added to the power and riches of his country, by laying open new fields of commercial enterprise, disclosing sources of wealth previously unknown, and extending the limits of her terrttorial possessions. The shores of New South Wales, which he was the first to explore, have become the seat of a vast and flourishing colony, whose wealth and resources are daily increasing. The ports of New * Polynesian Researches, vol. iv., p. 3. See also Mariner's Tonga Islands, vol. i., p. xv. A later voyager, Captain Waldegrave, who visited the Friendly Archipelago in 1830, writes, "In our totir through these islands we had great reason to admire the general accuracy of Captain Cook ; his description of the houses, fences, manners of the Hapai Islands, is correct to the preseatday."— Joura. of the Roy. Geog. Soc., vol. iii., p. 186. t Voyage towards the South Pole, vol. ii., p. S93. 852 OBSERVATIONS ON THE Zealand are frequented by British shipping ; settlements of our countr^en have been formed on its bays ; and its vege- table treai|Hi|S — ^its trees and flax — have been rendered avail- able to thewants of .our navy. His discoveries on the north- e' < coast of America gave rise to a valuable and extensive trade in furs. The Sandwich Islands have become so great a mart of traffic, that it has been found necessary to estabUsh an English consulate at their capital. The Southern Pacific is everywhere the resort of whaling-vessels engaged in a lu- crative fishery, and deriving their supplies of seanstorcs from those fertile islands, the various ports and harbours of which he was the u.Jt to make known.* Even the barren rocks of New South Georgia, which he visited in his second voyage, have been far from unprofitable ; it is believed that, besides the skins of the fur-seal, they have yielded no less than S0,000 tons of the sea-elephant oil for the London market. Kerguelen's, or Desolation Island, has proved a^ scarcely less fruitful source of advantage ; and it is calculated '' that, du- ring the time these two islands have been resorted to for the purpose of trade, more than 2000 tons of shipping, and from two to three hundred seamen, have been employed annually in this traffic"! While so many advantages have accrued to the civilized world from the voyages of the illustrious navigator whose his- tory has just been narrated, the countries and nations which he made known have likewise reaped a rich harvest of benefit ; and it is consolatory to reflect, that the fears which troubled his benevolent mind lest the islanders of the Austral Ocean might have " just cause to lament that our ships had ever found them out," have not^been realized. The labours of the good and pious men who sailed in the ship Duff to spread the glad tidings of salvation among " '«.he isles of the sea," though long unsuccessful, have at length been crowned with a prosperous issue. Throughout the principal groups of the Pacific idolatry has been overthrown, and with it the darker crimes and more brutal vices of the natives. Those desolating wars, in which * " Le nombre des navires Anglais et Amiricalns, principalement de balelniers, qui abordent k Tahiti, est de 200 dt 250, terme mnyen en six nu^s. On ait que la population blanchv y est de 200 A 300 peraonnes, et augment* chaque Jour."— Singapore Chronicle, quoted in Nouvelles An* nales des Voyages (1833), tome xxx., p. 111. t Weddel's Voyage towards the South Pole, p. 53, 54. CHARACTER OF COOK. 353 mercy was altogether unknown, and neither sex nor age was a protection from the exterminating fury of the victors, have ceased. The barbarous sacrifices of human beings, and the still more sanguinary usa^e of infanticide, which prevailed to an extent almost incredible, have been abolished. Peace, order, and tranquillity are established ; not a few of the cus- toms and comforts of Europe introduced ; schools and churches erected ; and a knowledge of letters extensively diffused. A printing-press has been established in the Society Islands, from which a translation of the New Testament into the native language, a number of initiatory treatises, and a code of laws ratified by the nation, have already issued. Many of the inhabitants harve made so great progress in learning, that they have been able to take on themselves the character of missionaries, and go forth to preach the Gospel to their be- nighted brethren in less favoured places. Others have acquired the arts of the smith, the mason, the weaver, the cotton-spin- ner, the turner, the agriculturist, and the carpenter. In the trade last mentioned they have made such proficiency as to build after the English style vessels of seventy tons burden, for commercial enterprises to different parts of Polynesia. The people of the Sandwich Archipelago have advanced still farther in civilization. The Bay of Honororu, in the Isl- and of Woahoo, almost resembles a European harbour. Fifty foreign vessels have been seen in it at one time. In the lat- ter part of the year 1833 it was resorted to by more than 26,000 tons of shipping, employing upwards of 2000 seamen, and bearing the flags of England, Prussia, Spain, America, and Otaheite.* It is defended by a fortress mounting forty guns, over which, and from the masts of the native barks, is suspended the national ensign,t which has already been seen in the ports of China, the Philippines, America, Kamtschatka, the New Hebrides, and Australia. The town is regularly laid out in squares, the streets are carefully fenced, ana num- bers. of *the houses are neatly built of wood. It possesses a regidar police, contains two hotels, the same number of bil- * Canton Register, 6th May, 1834, quoted in the Asiatic Journal (March, 1835% vol. xvi., p. 191. t '* Le pavUlon Sandwichien, se composoit d'un yacht Anglais, sur nn fond rayd horizontalement de neuf bandes alternatives, blnnehes, ranges et bleues ; le blanc 6toit plac6 le plus baut et le yacht A Tangle sup^rieur, prds la ralingue."— Freycinet, Voyage autour do Monde, t(Hneil.,p. (01. G 2 354 OBSERVATIONS ON TIU! f » liard-rooms, and nearly a dozen taverns, bearine such inscripe tions aa " Aa' Ordinary at One o'Clock,'* " The Britannia," «nd " The Jolly Tar." It is the residence of a British and of an American consul, and of several respectable merchants of the United States.* Education and a knowledge of religion 4 are widely spread throughout the islands ; nine hundred sem- < inaries, conaucted by native teachers, are established, and fifty thousand children receive instruction in reading.f Within a little distance of the very spot where Cook was killed a \ school has been opened, and a building erected for the wor- ship of the true God. The fortune of some others of the countries explored by him has hitherto been less aukpicious ; but in most of them . missions are already planted with every prospect of success, and we may confidently look forv/ard to the day when teachers . ^ of Christianity shall be established in all. It may be said, indeed, that in almost every quarter of Po- lynesia the seeds of civilization are now sown, and it is a £Iant (as has been remarked) which seldom withers or decays, owevcr slowly it may advance in growth. The hopes, there- fore, can hardly be considered visionary which have been ex- pressed by a late distinguished voyager, who, in sailing along the shores of New Zealand, anticipated the period when that magnificent country shall become the Great Britain of the Southern Hemisphere, when its now solitary plains shall be covered with large and populous cities, and the bays which axe at present firequented but by the frail canoe of the wan- dering savage, shall be thronged with the commercial navies of empires situated at the opposite ends of the carth.^ When that day shall arrive, and the fertile islands of the Pacific be- come toe seat^of great and flourishing states, we may confi- dently predict, that Cook will be revered, not with the blind adoration (^ered to the fancied Rono, but with the rational respect and afifection due by an enlightened people to him who was the harbinger of their civUization ; and that among the * " Dana cette ville naissante, fondle dans un pays dont les liabitans, l!t y a dix ans, ^taHent tout-a-fiiit aauvages, on trouve AijA presqua tootes las commodit^B des villea d*Europe "— Observations sur lea Ilabiiana das mas Sandwich, par M. P. E. Botia.— Nouvelles Annalas das VQ;?«e8, toina xxii., p. 135. t Quarterly Journal orEducation, vol. iii., p. 376. i lyVtvlUa, Voyafa aiutbur du Moade, tome ii., p. 1 14, 119. h inscripp ritannia," ish and of rchants of f religion Ired sem- ihed, and Within } killed a the wor- )lored by of them success^ teachers it of Po- i it is a r decayS} 38, there- been ex- ng along hen that n of the shall be rs which ihe wan- fxavies of When cific be* ly confi- he blind rational urn who ong the CHARACTER OF COOK. 355 great and good men, commemorated in their annals as national benefactors, none will be more highly extolled than the illus- trious navigator who, surmounting the dangers and difficulties of unknown seas, laid open the path by which the benefits of knowledge and the blessings of religion were wafted to their distant shores. >.r' habitans, U4t«UtM )iv«nsdM %.■< ^ »-"'|-.j.'&im>.' **"-'■ ■f^ INDEX. \ A. Alkxander VI., Pope, Bull of Partition by, 22, 24. Anson, Commodore, circumnayigation of, 127-140 ; equipment of the squadron, 128; enters Strait Le Maire, 129; stormy Sassage round Cape Horn, 130, 131 ; arrival at Juan Fernan- ez, 131; numbers lost by the scurvy, 132; cruise off the American coast, 133 ; burning of Payta, ib. ; cruise for the Manilla galleon, 135; sails for China, ib. ; sufferings from the scurvy, 136 ; the Gloucester burnt, ib. ; arrival atTinian, 137; second cruise for the Manilla galleon, 138; she is met and captured, ib. ; return to England, 139 ; narratives of the voy- age, 128, note. Aotourou, or Mayoa, a native of Otaheite, carried to Paris by Bougainville, 187, 188, 193, 194, 226, 284. Arsacides, Land of, 192, 196, 198. (See Solomon Islands.) Atlantic Ocean, opinions of the ancients as to the, 17 ; of the Arabs, 18 ; of the middle ages. 21 ; Southern Atlantic explored by Cook, 250-254 ; highest latitude attained by him, 294 ; by Weddel, ib., note. Australia del Espiritu Santo, 83, 85, 88, 189, 190, 265, 273-275. "' (See New Hebrides.) B. Balboa, Vasco N. de (see Nunez). Banks, Sir Joseph, 213, 214, 216-218, 221, 222>225, 229, 230, 239, 242, 244, 245, 247, 248, 257, 285, 345. Barbinais, Le Gentil de la, voyage of, 175. Bolabola, or Borabora, Island of, 228, 260, 272, 285, 303, 306, 310. 311. Bonechea, Don Domingo,- his voyages, 302, note. Borneo visited by the fleet uf Magellan, 48-50. Bougainville, Louis Antoine de, circumnavigation of, 175-194 ; narrative of his voyage, 176, note ; early life of, 176 ; estab- lishes a colony on the Falkland Islands, 177 ; the islands ceded to Spain, 180 ; enters the Pacific, 182 ; discovery of the Dan- gerous Archipelago, 182, 183; reaches Otaheite, 184; inci- 358 INDEX. dents during his stay there, 185-187 ; departure with a native on board, 187 ; discovery of the Navigators' Islands, 188; of the Grand Cyclades, 190, 191 ; singular discovery there, 190 ; discovery of the Louisiade, 191 ; visits the Solomon Islands, ib. ; discovers Bougainville's Straits, 192 ; anchors at New Ireland, ib. ; reaches the Moluccas, 193 ; interview with Car- teret, 174. Bougainville's Straits, 192, 198, 275. Bouvet's Land, 249, 250, 251, 280. Britain, New, 166, 171, 172, 193. Brower, Hendr'ck, voyage of, 110. Bucaniers, expeditions of, 111-113. Bull, papal, or Martin V., 22; of Alexander VI., 22-24, 54; dis- putes regarding, 54. Byron, Hon. John, his narrative of the shipwreck of the Wager, 140 ; his circumnavigation, 142-151 ; search for Pepy's Islands, 144 ; interview with the Patagonians, 145 ; visits the Falk- lands, 147 ; discovers the Islands of Disappointment and Kins George, 148 ; visits the Islands Prince of Wales, Danger, and Duke of York, 149, 150 ; arrives at Tinian, 150 ; reaches England, 151. C. Cabots, the, their discoveries, 25. Cabral, Pedro Alvarez de, discovers Brazil, 24. Caledonia, New, Island of, 276, 348. Caroline Islands, 56, 57, 59, 65, 72, 77, 113. Carteret, Captain Philip, circumnavigation of, 166-174 ; discov- ers Pitcaim^s Island, 166 ; Osnaburg Island, 167 ; the Islands of Queen Charlotte or Santa Cruz, 169, 170 ; visits the Solo- mon Islands, 171, 172 ; diseovei's a strait between New Brit- ain and New Ireland, 171, 172 ; discovers New Hanover, 173; makes the Philippines, ib. ; arrival in England, 174. Cavendish, Thojnas, circumnavigation of, 66. Circoncision, Cape de la, 249. (See Bouvet's Land.) Clerke, Captain, 288, 304, 310, 321, 332, 340. Clipperton and Shelvocke, circumnavigation of, 116-121. Coleridge's " Rime of the Ancient Mariner," origin of, 119. Columbus, Don Christopher, his discoveries, 21-23 ; treatment of, by John II. of Portugal, 32; his example quoted by Qui- ros, 85 ; ships of, 213 ; temper of, 345. Cook, Captain James. His Life previous to his First Voyage, 202 — 214 ; his birth, 202 ; education and apprenticeship, 203 ; vol- unteers into the navy, ib. ; his services at Quebec, 204 ; made master of the Northumberland, 205 ; first studies mathematics and astronomy, 205, 206 ; his marriage, 205 ; appointed ma- rine surveyor of Newfoundland, 206 ; accuracy ol his charts, INDEX. 359 ige,202 ; vol- made matics id ma- charts, ib. ; is promoted to the rank of a lieutenant, and appointed to conduct an expedition to the South Sea, 212 ; his choice of a vessel, ib. ; receives his instructions for the voyage, 214. Cook. His First Circumnavigation, 215-245 ; departure, and ar- rival at Madeira, 215 ; search for Pepys' Island, ib. ; aHven- ture of a party on Tierra del Fuego, 216-218 ; discovery of the islands of Lagoon and Thrum Cap, 219 ; of Bow, ^e Groups, and Bird Island, 220 ; of Chain Island, ib. ; arrival at Ota- heite, ib. ; theft of a musket, and a native killed, 221 ; Oberea and Tootahah, 222 ; the quadrant stolen, ib. ; preparations for the transit, ib. ; observations of Mr. Green, 223 ; circumnavi- gation of Otaheite, 226 ; desertion of two marines, ib. ^ Tuaia, a native of the island, taken on board, ib. ; discovery of Tetnu- Toa,227 ; of Huaheine, ib. ; of 11 lietea. Tubal, Maurua, Otaha, and Bolabola, 227, 228 ; of Oheteroa, 228 ; arrival at New Zealand, 229 ; affrays with the natives, 230 ; two boys taken prisoners, 231 ; cruise off the coast, 232-236 ; discovery of Cook's Straits, 236, 237 ; departure from New Zealand, 237 ; reach the eastern coast of New Holland, ib. ; discovery of Botany Bay and Port Jackson, 238-240 ; narrow escape from shipwreck, 240-242 ; a kangaroo seen, 241 ; critical situation of the vessel, 242 ; the country named New South Wales, 243 ; rediscovery of the Strait of Torres, ib. ; mortality at Batavia, 244 ; arrival in England, 245 ; interest excited by the voyage, ib. ; Cook promoted to the rank of commander, ib. . His Second Circumnavigation, 246-286 ; objects of the expedition, 246 ; equipment of the vessels, ib. ; calumny refu- tea, 247, note: instructions for the voyage, 249 ;. search for Bouvet's Land, 251 ; explores the Southern Atlantic, 251-253 ; separation of the ships, 252 ; Aurora Australia seen, ib. ; he anchors at New Zealand, 254 ; reaches Queen Charlotte's Sound, 255 ; is joined by the Adventure, ib. ; voyage to the east, 256 ; discovery of Resolution, Doubtful, Furneaux, and Adventure Islands, 257 ; arrival at Otaheite, ib. ; interview with the natives, 258 ; visit to Huaheine and Ulietea, 259, 260 ; discovery of Hervey Island, 260 ; reach the Friendly Islands, ib. ; appearance of the country, 261 ; sail for New Zealand ; the Aaventure lost sight of, ib. ; departure from New Zealand and voyage to the south, 262 ; sufferings of the voyagers, 263 ; progress towards the pole arrested in latitude 71° 10', ib. ; dangerous illness of Cook, 265 ; reach Easter Island, ib. ; in- habitants of, and monuments at, 266-268 ; rediscovery of the Islands Las Marquesas, 268; incidents there, ib. ; makes Tiookea or King George's Islands of Byron, discovers Palliser's Isles, and revisits Otaheite, 269 ; anchors at Huaheine and Ulietea, 271 ; sees the Howe Island of Wallis, 272 ; discovers ' ' Palmerston, Savage, and Turtle Islands, and anchors at the 360 INDEX. , / Friendly Oroup, ib. ; rediscovers the Australia del Espiritu Santo of Quires, 273 ; touches at the Islands of MallicoUo, Erromango, and Tanna, 273-275; anchors in the Bay San Felipe y Santiago, 275 ; denominates the archipelago New Hebrides, ib. ; discovers New Caledonia, 276, 277 ; Norfolk Island, 277; makesthecoastof New Zealand, ib. ; run across the Pacific, 278, 279 ; surveys the southern shores of Tierra del Fuego, 278 ; rediscovers New Souih Georgia, 279 ; dis- covers Southern Thuleand Sandwich Land, 279. 280 ; reaches the Cape of Good Hope, 280 ; letter from Captain Furneaux, 281; results of the voyage, ib ; Cook made post-captain, cap* tain in Greenwich Hospital, and F.R.S., 282 ; his method of preserving the health of seamen, 282, 283, note ; receives the Copley medal, 283 ; writes the history of his voyage, ib. Cook. Hia Third Voyage, 287-343 ; letter to Captain Walker, 288, note ; undertakes the command of the expedition, 288 ; its objects, 289 ; history of the voyage, 289, note ; search for Kerguelen's Land, 290 ; reach Van Diemen's Land, ib. ; ar- rival in New Zealand, ib. ; massacre of a boat's crew of the Adventure, 291 ; discovery of Mangeea, 292 ; of Wateeoo, 293 ; landing effected, ib. ; natives of the Society Isles found here, 294 ; visits Otakootaia, 295 ; Hervey and Palmerston Islands, ib. ; Savage Island, 296 ; arrival at the Friendly Islands, ib. ; visits the Hapai Group, ib. ; treacherous plot of the islanders, 297 ; interview with Touitonga, 298 ; reception at Tongata- boo,299 ; depredations of the natives, ib. ; departure from the Tonga Islands, 301 ; Island of Toobouai, ib. ; arrival at Ota- heite, and reception of Omai, ib. ; visits of the Spaniards, 302, 303, note ; incidents during his stay at Otaheite, 302-306 ; an- chors at Eimeo, 306 ; visits Huaheme, ib. ; Omai settled there, 307 ; sails to Ulietea, 309 ; to Bolabola, ^10 ; voyage to the north, 311 ; discovery of Christmas Island, ib. ; of the Sand- wich Islands, 312-315 ; makes the coast of New Albion, 315; anchors in iCootka Sound, ib. ; appearance of the natives, 316 ; enters Prince William's Sound, 318; arrives at Oonalaska, 320 ; death of Mr. Anderson, ib. ; passes Behring's Straits, and attains the latitude of 70° 44' N., when his progress is ar- rested, 322 ; return to Oonalaska, ib. ; revisits the Sandwich Islands, discovers Maui and Owhyhee, and anchors in Kara- kaova Bay, 323 ; legend of the god Rono, 324 ; Cook is wor- shipped as this deity, 324-327 ; interview with the king, ib. ; his anxiety for the departure of the voyagers, 328 ; they sail from Karakaova Bay, but are obliged to return, 330; altered appearance of the harbour, and affray with the natives, ib ; Cfook's feelings on its result, 331; the Discovery's cutter stolen, 332 ; Cook goes on shore to recover it, ib. ; nis inter- Ti«w with the king, 333 ; the nativei become tUibulent, 334 ; INDEX. 861 they prepare for war, 334 ; attack the voyaffers, and force them into the water, 335 ; Cook lingers behind, and is stabbed in the neck, 336 ; his death, 337 ; his body burnt, 338 ; part of his remains recovered, ib. ; his bones worshipped, 339 ; thu voyage to the north resumed, 340 ; death of Captain Clerke, ib. ; the ships anchor at Macao, 341 ; trade in turs, 342 ; ar- rival in £ngland, 343 ; fate of Cook's ship, the Discovery, ib., note. Cook. Hia Habits, Talents, and Character, 343-355 ; honours paid to him after his death at home and abroad, 343; medal struck in his honour, ib. ; pension to his widow and children, 344 ; monuments erected to him, ib. ; his personal appearance and temper, 345 ; portraits of him, ib. ; domestic habits ; his children ; his widow, 346 ; characteristics of his intellect ; its activity, 347 ; his perseverance, 348 ; extent and importance of his discoveries, 348-350 ; accuracy of his charts, surveys, and descriptions, 350, 351 ; his discovery of the means of pre- serving the health of seamen, 351 ; value of his discoveries to his country, ib. ; benefits to the countries visited resulting from his voyages, 352-354 ; anticipation of still greater advan- tages, 354 ; future renown of Cook, 355. Cook, Mrs., 205, 206, 345, 346, 347. Cook's River or Inlet, 320, 342. Cook's Straits, 326. Crusoe, Robinson, 61, 116. Cyclades, L'Archipel des Grandes, 190, 273. (See New Heb- rides.) D. Dampier, William, sails under Captain John Cook, 111 ; vrith Captain Swan, 112; his voyage to New Holland, 113, 114; his circumnavigation of the world, 115, 116; sails as pilot to Woodes Rogers, 116. Diaz, Bartholomew, discovers the Cape of Oood Hope, 24. Drake, Sir Francis, circumnavigation of, 64, 65 ; his ship, 65, 343. Dutch vessels, expedition of five, 72-74. E. Easter Island or Davis's Land, 112, 113, 122-126, 148, 166, 182, 265, 266-268, 349. F. Falkland Islands, 67, 73, 89, 111, 112, 113, 116, 122, 143, 147, 151, 176-182. Fernandez, Juan de, his discoveries, 61, 63, 265. Forster, George, 247, 248, 254, 261, 262, 263, 265, 266, 209, 277. . Hh 362 INDEX. M If J Forster, John Reinhold, 108, 176, 178, 184, 185, 194, 247, 249. Friendly Islands. (See Tonga Islands.) Funnel, circumnavigation of, 116. Furneaux, Captain, 158, 247, 252, 255, 256, 257, 259, 278, 281, 284, 285, 290,^92. Gama, Vasco de, voyage of, 24. Georgia, New, 192, 198. Georgia, New South, HI, 113, 179, 279, 352. Gregory, Professor James, his discovery of the means of ascer> taining the sun's parallax from the transits of the planets, 208. Guinea, New, 57, 77, 86, 94, 99, 100, 111, 113, 193, 196,200,243. H. Halley, Dr. Edmund, elucidates the theory of planetary transits, 208 ; directs attention towards that of Venus, 209, Hawkins, Sir Richard, voyage of, 67 ; Maiden-land of, ib. (S<;e Falkland Islands.) Hebrides, New, 113, 169, 170, 188-190, 273-275, 348. (See Australia del Espiritu Santo.) Hermite, Jacob 1', circumnavigation of, 102-105. Holland, New, 86, 101, 106, 110, 111, 112, 113, 114, 175, 200; 237-243, 246, 255, 256, 348. Horn, Cape, 55, 64, 77, 90, 101, 102, 111, 113, 116, 119, 131, 132, 139, 145, 176, 200, 219, 237, 278. Huaheine, Island of, 227, 259, 271, 284, 303, 306-309. I. Icy Cape, 322. Ireland, New, 99, 100, 166, 172, 173, 192, 193. K. Kergiielen, discoveries of, 289, 290, 348, 352. King, Captain, 289, 325, 326, 328, 329, 330, 331, 332, 337, 338, 339, 340, 341, 342, 348. L. Ladrone Islands. (See Marian.) Legaspi, M'chael Lopez de, voyage of, 60, 61. Le Maire (See Schouten.) Le Mair , Strait of, 90, 102, 110, 113, 119, 129, 130, 140, 216, 278. Leon Juan Ponce de, sails in quest of the Fountain of Youth, 26. 196. Loujsiade, 191. Loyasa, Garcia Jofre de, expedition of, 54-56. INDEX. 363 M. Magellan, or Magalhaens, Fernando de, his birth and early life, 30 ; his proposals to the Portuguese court rejected, 31 ; ac- cepted by Charles V. of Spain, 32; sets sail from San Lucar, 33 ; mutiny of his crew in Port San Julian, ib. ; interviews with the Patagonians, 34 ; description of them, 34, 35 ; dis- covery of the Strait of Magellan, 36 ; passes through it, 37 ; enters the South Sea, 38 ; discovers the islands Las Desven- turadas, ib. ; passage across the Pacific, 39 ; discovery of the Ladrone or Marian Islands, and transactions there, 39, 40 ; ar- rives at the Philippines, 40 ; incidents daring his visit to Ma- zagua or Limasava, 40-42 ; arrival at Zebu, 42 ; conversion and manners of the inhabitants, 43, 44 ; war against the King of Matan, 44 ; death of Magellan, 45 ; his character, 45, 46 ; fate of his ship, 53, 343 ; results of his voyage, 53. Magellan, Straits of, 55, 56, 64, 65, 66, 67, 72, 74, 77, 78, 86, 87, 88, 90, 101, 102, 103, 118, 141, 143, 145, 146, 147, 148, 152, 166, 178, 182, 200, 278. Maitea, or Osnaburg Island, 80, 154, 184, 220, 257, 303, note. Mallicollo, or Manicolo, Island of, 83, 273, 275. Malouine Islands. (See Falkland Islands.) Marian, or Ladrone Islands, 39, 40, 55, 56, 59, 60, 66,74, 77, 105, 112, 116, 118, 136, 137, 150, 165, 195. Marion du Fresne, M., voyage of, 195. Marquesas, Las, the islands, 69, 77, 213, 268, 269, 304, 349. Mendana de Neyra, Alvaro de, first expedition of, 62, 63 ; second voyage of, 68-72; his discovery of Las Marquesas, 69 ; of the island of Santa Cruz, 70; his death and character, 71. Missionaries, Spanish, settled in Otaheite, 302, 303 ; voyage of English to the South Sea, 305, note ; English in the Sandwich Islands, 339 ; success in the South Sea, 352-355. Moluccas, or Spice Islands, 32, 46, 48, 51, 62, 54, 56, 57, 77, 86, 87, 94, 100, 105, 193. N. Nassau fleet, circumnavigation of, 101-105. Navigators' Islands, 126, 188. Nodals, expedition of, 101. Noort, Olivier Van, circumnavigation of, 73, 76. Nootka Sound, 315-317. Nunez de Balboa, Vasco, hears of th 't Pacific, 27 ; discovers it, 28 ; his fate, 29, 76, note. O. Omai, a native of Ulietea, brought to England by Captain Fur- neaux, 259, 2cJl, 285, 289, 292, 293, 294, 296, 301 304, 306-309. il 364 INDEX. ! Otaheite, 81, 82, 150, 154-165, 158, 166, 184-187, 188, 199, 213, 214, 220-223, 225-227, 256, 257-259, 269-271, 288, 301-306, 310, 311, 312, 353. Owhyhee, or Hawaii, 323-340, 344. Oxenham, John, the first Englishmsoi that sailed on the Pacific, 64. P. Pacific Ocean, unknown to the ancients, 17-19; its eastern shores reached by Marco Polo, 19; heard of by Columbus, 21 ; by Vasco Nunez de Balboa, 27 ; discovered by him, 27- 29 ; origin of the name of South Sea, 29 ; state of knowledge regarding it (1519), 29 ; origin of the name Pacific, 39 ; prog- ress of discovery in, from Magellan to the close of the six- teenth century, 76, 77 ; superstitions regarding, 78 ; discov- eries in during the seventeenth century, 112-114 ; view of the discoveries in previous to Cook's first voyage, 199-201 ; run of Cook and Fumeaux across, 278 ; islands in, how peopled, 294 ; trade in, 351 ; idolatry overthrown in the principal groups of, 352. Papua. (See New Guinea.) Patagonians, 34-36, 89, 145-147, 152, 182. Pelew Islands, 56, 65, 77, 198. Pepys' Island, 111, 143, 144, 147, 179, note, 215. (See Falkland Islands.) Philippines, or Archipelago of St. Lazarus, 40-48, 42, 59, 60, 61, 65, 72, 74, 77, 112, 135, 139, 173, 195, 196,199, 353. Pitcaim's Island, 166, 167, 199, 256. Polo, Marco, his travels, 19 ; reaches the Asiatic margin of the Pacific, ib. ; his description of Japan, 19, 20. Q. Quiros, Pedro Fernandez de, sails as pilot to Mendana, 68-72 ; his voyage an* discoveries, 79-85. R. Roche, La, voyage of. 111. Rogers, Woodes, circumnavigation of, 116. Roggewein, Jacob, circumnavigation of, 121-127. Rono, or Orono, a god of the Sandwich Islands, 324, 325, 326, 327, 329, ?:^1, 337, note, 338, 339, 354. S. Saavedra, Alvaro de, expedition of, 56-58. Sandwich Islands, 312-315, 323-340, 349, 350, 352, 353, 354. Sandwich Land, 280, 348. Santa Cruz, Island of, 70-72, 77, 170. INDEX. 365 Sarmiento de Gamboa, Pedro, voyage of, 65. Schouten and Le Maire, circumnavigation of, 87-101 ; one of their ships burnt, 88 ; they discover Staten Land, Strait Le Maire, and Cape Horn, 90 ; anchor at Cocos Island, 92 ; in- cidents during their stay at Hoorn island, 94-98 ; arrive at the Moluccas, 100 ; their ship confiscated, 101 ; narratives of their voyage, 87, note. Shelvocke and Clipperton, circumnavigation of, 117-121. Shortland, Lientenant, voyage of, J 9^. Society Islands, 113, 126, 150, 228, 292. 294, 329, 349, 350. Solander, Dr., 214, 216-218, 220, 222-224, 229, 239, 244, 245, 247 248 285 286 Solomon Island's, 62, 63, 68, 70, 168, 169, 171, 191, 192, 196-198. Southern Continent, belief in, 77; vovage of Schouten and Le Maire in search of, 87-101 ; uncertainty regarding, 200 ; its fancied splendour and extent, 201 ; New Zealand mistaken for it, 229 ; question of its existence still agitated, and Cook sent out to determine the point, 246 ; Cook's opinion with re- gard to it, 280 ; question of, finally set at rest by him, 348. South Sea. (See Pacific Ocean.) Spaniards, visit of, to Otaheite in the time of Cook, 302, 303, note, 306. Spilbergen, George, circumnavigation of, 86, 87, Strong, Captain John, voyage of, 112. Sufville, M., expedition of, 195-198. u > i Tasman, Abel Jansen, voyages of, 106-111 ; he discovers Van Diemen's Land, 106; New Zealand, lb.; the Friendly or Tonga Islands, 10(i 112. Tonga or Friendly Islands. 106-112, 113, 195, 200, 213, 260, 261, 295, 296-302, 307. 327, 329, 337, 349, 351. Torres, Luis Vaez de, sails as pilot with Quiros, 79 ; discover* ies of, after his separation from Quiroa, 85, 86. Torres, Strait of, 86, 94, 101, 200, 243, 348. Transit of Venus. (See Venus.) Tupia, a native of Otaheita, 226, 227, 228, 229, 230, 231, 236,238, 244, 257, 285. Ulietea or Raiatea, island of, 227, 259, 260, 271, 272, '^Si, 285, 303, 304, 306, 307, 309, 310. Vancouver, Mr , 331. Van Diemen's Land, 106, 111, 113, 195, 200, 237, 238, 255, 266, 290. ' , Hh2 366 INDEX. Yenus, transits of the planet, history of, 207-211 ; prediction of Kepler .07 ; observation of Horrox, ib. ; appreciation of their uses by Gregory, ib. ; by Halley, 208 ; transit of 1761, 210, 21 1 ; preparations for that of 1769, 211; expedition to the South Sea, 212 ; observations at Otaheite and Eimeo, 222, 223 ; in other parts of the world, 224, 225 ; results of, 225. Vespucci, Amerigo, question as to his discoveries, nc, 130, 279. Yillalobos, Ruy Lopez de, expedition of, 59. W. Wager frigate, one of Anson's squadron, disastrous shipwreck of, 139-141. Wales, New South, 198, 243, 351. 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