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The following work is intended to supply what has long appeared a desideratum to the tourist who visits Niagara and the St. Lawrence, — a Panoramic or Pic- ture Map of all the most celebrated and picturesque points along this noble river. The Author has, through a variety of difficulties and at great ex- pense, finished the work which he contemplated; and however great may have been the task, the assur- ance and encouragement of many friends give him every reason to believe, that he will have no cause to regret the attempt of bringing before the public his Panoramic Guide from Niagara to Quebec. As the country embraced in the range of his illus- trated scenery has been fully explored and noticed by other travellers, the Author has not deemed H necessary to add long descriptions of the diiFerent towns and villages to his work. He trusts that his I ■ VIU PREFACE. Panorama itself will be found sufficient, mainly, for the object in view: viz., that of condensing much important matter within a very small space. In the selection of materials for description, he has, in addi- tion to his own observations, availed himself of the various reliable sources of information to which he has had access. He has made £.ee use of an excellent work, published in the form of a Hand-book, by R. W. S. Mackay, Esq.- -^' ...r/yh ,fi i , ' To difference of taste, and a necessary limit to the extent of the work, must be assigned any apparent omissions, which those conversant with the scenery of the St. Lawrence may observe. Stanstead, C. E., Oct. 25, 1856. ■i" :''.'« ' , ■r^d 'AM: Ik: il. ' .. r X -J^S ^•- i''':t>:f:. jk i\r rj.:. ■f-/i(i;, ^u: I '■'» h .' -'■ ■i'f.J'.Ji'V.^L'^ i .;';i,'n .^■:U< 1 4 HTOTEE'S PANOEAMIC GUIDE. ' ^!f~ APPROACH TO NIAGARA. The traveller in his first visit to this place is impressed with a Dense of inexpressible amazement His emotions are not unlike those of the votary of necromancy, who, when once within the magic circle, trembles under the influence of the enchanter, even before he confronts the wizard himself. A lo^' sound, like the pealing of distant thunder, tells him plainly that he is approaching the wonder of wonders. The Falls of Niagara ! HORSE SHOE FALL. k v Who can forget his first view of this grand and stupendous spectacle? The roaring is so tremendous^ that it would seem that if all the lions that ever have lived since the days of Daniel, could join their voices in one " Hullah's " chorus, they would pro- duce but a whisper, in comparison to the deep diapason of this most majestic of all nature's hobsb shob fall. pipes or organs. t; :? . '"k"^ The wooden bridge which connects the mainland with Goat Island f. 10 HUNTER'S PANORAMIC GUIDE i-i FKOU NIAGARA. FALLS TO QUEBEC. 11 H A M 03 O o M I N O O » 12: HUNTER'S PANORAMIC GUIDE is eagerlj passed, and we explore the whole of this curious crag, which is rightly named, for it is found fantasticallj enough to suggest that goats onlj could find a comfort- able footing. The sublimity of the scene increases at every step; but when we come upon the mighty Cata- ract, we gaze in speechless wonder. But words cannot describe the gran- deur of this scene, nor the emoti(Kis THE BAPiDs. which it excites ; neither can the pencil, any more than the pen, do it justice. The silent and the still picture wants the motion and the sound of that stupendous rush of waters. It is impossible to paint the ever rising colunm of spray that spires upward from the foaming gulf below, or the prismatic glory that crowns it; for there indeed has Grod forever " set his bow ** in the cloud, and cold must be the heart that in such a scene remembers not his covenant. As neither descriptive language nor pictorial art ca»i give an ade- quate conception of the magnitude of this wondrous Cataract, some notion may be suggested of the immense volume of water falling over the precipice, when it has been computed to be nearly 20,000,- 000 cubic feet per minute, in the Horse Shoe Fall alone ; to say nothing of the Fall on the American side. The Horse Shoe Fall is 1900 feet across, and 158' feet in height; the American Fall is 908 feet wide, and 164 feet high. It is calculated that those Falls recede at the rate of a foot every year. It is here that the beauti- ful phenomenon of the rainbow is seen to such advantage. TABLE ROCK This is truly a magnificent crag, — the projection at the top being immense, from which large masses are often falling. Many acci- dents have happened to tourists venturing too near the precipice. A small steamer, called " The Maid of the Mist," plies up uud down the river, for two or three miles, and ventures even close under the Falls. Some travellers are also fond of dressing themselves in tarpaulin clothing, and going behind the projection of the impending FROM NIAGABA FALLS TO QUEBEC. m TABLE ROCK-NIAGARA FALLS. 14 HUNTER'S PAKOBAMIC GUID^ BMTBAVOK TO THK CAYB or THB IflRDS. «Uff, behind the mighiy Fall ; but the danger is, we consideri &r too great for the mere sake of saying that we have been under Niagara. The TMh Bock, however, exists now but in memory , for it tiuddenly fell 8 is a large triangalar chasip in the bank of the river, three and » half miles below the Falls. The Bloody Run, as previously men-^ Honed, falb into this chasm. The fdlowing tale will, we think, be read with interest, in oonneo* tii; HUNTER'S PANORAMIC GUIDE or the softest melody of the flute, gushing forth from that low-browed hut, or the guitar breathing out so lightly amid the rush and thunder of the never slumbering torrent Though the world of letters was familiar to his mind, and the living world to his observation, for he had travelled widely, both in his native Europe and the East, he isought not association with mankind, to unfold or to incre^e his stores of knowledge. Those who had occasionally conversed with him, spoke with equal surprise and admiration of his colloquial powers, his command of language, and his fervid eloquence ; but he seldom and sparingly admitted this intercourse, studiously avmding society ; though there seemed in his nature nothing of misanthropy or moroseness. Or the contrary, he showed kindness to even the humblest animals. Birds instinctively learned this amiable trait in his character, and freely entered his dwelling, to receive from his hands crumbs or seeds. ,; , . ■-, ., But the absorbing delight of his solitary residence, was commu- nion with Niagara. Here he might be seen at every hour of the day or night, a fervent worshipper. At the gray dawn he went to visit it in the vail of mist ; at noon, he banqueted in the full splendor of its glory ; beneath the sofl tinting of the lunar bow he lingered, looking for the angel whose pencil had painted it ; and, at solemn midnight, he knelt at the same shrine. Neither the storms of autumn, nor the piercing cold of winter, prevented his visits to the temple of his adoration. There was, at this time, an extension of the Serappin Bridge, by a single beam of timber, carried out ten feet over the fathomless abyss, where it hung tremulously, guarded only by a rude parapet. Along this beam he often passed and re- passed, in the darkness of night. He even took pleasure in gr!:^p- ing it with his hands, and thus suspending himself over the awful gulf; so much had his morbid enthusiasm taught him to revel amid the terribly sublime. Among his favorite gratifications, was that of bathing, in which he indulged daily. One bright but rather chilly day in the month of June, 1881, a man, employed about the ferry, saw him go into the water, and for a long time after observed his clothes to be still lying upon the bank. The poor hermit had taken his last bath. It was supposed that Vl^J^f^f^- FROM NIAGARA FALLS TO QUEBEC. 17 cramp might have been induced by the chill of tho atmosphere or the water. Still the body was not found, the depth and force of the current below being exceedingly great. In the course of their search, they passed on to the Whirlpool. There, amid those boiling eddies, was the body, making fearful and rapid gyrations upon the face of the black waters. At some point of suction, it suddenly plunged and disappeared. Again emerging, it was fearful to see it leap half its ^^.ngth above the flood, then float motionless, as if ex- hausted, and, anon, spring upward, and seem to struggle like a maniac battling with a mortal foe. For days and nights this terrible scene was prolonged. It was not until the 21st of June, that, after many efforts, they were able to recoyer the body, and bear it to his desolate cottage. There they found his faithful dog, guarding the door. Heavily had the long period worn away, while he watched for his only friend, and wondered why he delayed his coming. He scrutinized the approaching group suspiciously, and would not wil- lingly have given them admittance. A stifled wail at length showed his intuitive knowledge of the master, whom the work of death had effectually disguised from the eyes of men. On the pillow was his pet kitten, and in different parts of the room were his guitar, flute, violin, portfolio, and book.", scattered, — the books open, as if re- cently used. It was a touching sight ; the iiermit mourned by his humble retainers, the poor animals that lovea him, and ready to be laid by strange hands in a foreign grave. The motives that led this singular and accomplished being, learned in the languages, in the arts and sciences, improved by extensive travel, and gifted with personal beauty and a feeling heart, to faeolude himself, in the flower of youth, from human society, are still envel- oped in mystery. All that is known was, that his name was Francis Abbot, that he was a native of England, where his father was a dei^yman, and that he had received from thence ample remittance? for his comfort These facts had been previously ascertained, but no written papers were found in his cell to throw additional light upon the obscurity in which he had so effectually wrapped the history of his pilgrimage. The lovers of romance have, however, identified his history with that of the hero of several modern tales, in which, as a matter of course, it is asserted that * « * 2* J:, 18 HUNTER'S PANORAMIC GUIDE /.-f/t, » ,!, , ^ .VC2 / f-^/- ?t 'U NIAGARA CITY. r From the beautiful view here obtained of the Falls, this place was formerly called Bellevue. The village has mostly grown up since the time of the erection of the Suspension Bridge, at this point. The population now numbers about 1200, and is rapidly increasing. A grist mill has been erected near the Bridge, the water-wheel of which is placed beneath, requiring a shaft 280 feet long to commu- nicate with the mill, on the top of the bank. The town contains many fine buildings ; prominent among these is a very large Rail- road Depot Niagara City has grown so rapidly, and is still so much upon the increase, that a general description only can be applied to it for any length of time. LEWISTON. A,. :'l- J. This village is situated at the head of navigation, on the Lower Niagara, and is a place of considerable importance. It lies three miles below the Devil's Hole, and seven miles below the Falls. Lewiston is a pleasant, well built village, but its commercial pros- pects have been very much injured by the construction of the' Erie and Welland Canals. THE SUSPENSION BRIDGE, ' ' ^ at this point, is one of the most stupendous works of the age. The span of this Bridge is one thousand and forty-five feet. It is carried over large towers of cut stone, and secured by anchors sunk firmly into the wild rock. It is supported by five cables upon each side. Each cable is composed of 250 strands of number ten wire, 1245 feet in length. The extreme capacity of the bridge is estimated at eight hundred and thirty-five tons. This bridge was erected in 1850, under the superintendence of E. W. Scrrell, Esq., of Canada East, and is the property of a joint company of Canadians and Americans. SUSPENSION BRIDOB. FROM NIAGARA FALLS TO QUEBEC. 19 QUEENSTON. This is a small village, situated nearly opposite to Lewiston, and contains about 200 inhabitants. It is the Canadian termination of the Bridge, and is associ- ated in history with the gallant defence made by the British, on the ad- jacent heights, in the war of 1812. The village is pleasantly situated, but it has suffered from the same causes that have retarder^ the growth of Lewiston. Near this point the river becomes more tranquil, the shores appear less broken and wild, and the change in the scenery aflTords a pleas- ing transition from the sublime to the beautiful. * BROCK'S MONUMENT. QUEENSTON SUSPENSION BRIDGE. This Monument stands on the Heights of Queenston, from whence the village derived Its name. The present structure occupies the site of the former one, which was blown up by some miscreant, on the 17th of April, 1840. The whole edifice is one hundred and eighty-five feet high. On the sub-base, which is forty feet square and thirty feet high, are placed four lions, facing north, south, east, and west ; the base of the ped- estal is twenty-one and a Imlf feet square, and ten feet high; the pedestal itself is sixteen feet square, and ten feet high, sur- mounted with a heavy cornice, ornamented with lion hjgads and wreaths, in alto-relievo. In ascendihg from the top of the pedestal to the top of the b;i=e of the shaft, tho fonn changes from square to round. The shaft is a fluted column of BUIN OP THE OLD BROCK MONUMENT. 20 HUNTER'S PANORAMIC GUIDE freestone, seventy-five feet high and ten feet in diameter ; on which stands a Corinthian capital, ten feet high, on which is wrought, in relief, a statue of the Goddess of War. On this capital is the dome,, nine feet high, which is reached by 250 spiral steps from the base, on the inside. On the top of the dome is placed a colossal statue of Gen. Brock. . ^ - . FORT NUGARA^ This Fort stands at the mouth of the Niagara River, on the Amer- ican side. There are many interesting associations connected with this spot; as, during the earlier part of the past century, it was the scene of many severe conflicts between the Whites and the Indians, and subse- quently between the Eng- lish and the French. The names of the heroic La Salle, the courtly De Nou- ville, and the gallant Prideaux, will long retain a place in the his- tory of this country. The village adjacent to the Fort is called Y^ungstown,. in honor of its founder, the late John Young, Esq. FORT NIAGARA. NIAGARA. This is one of the oldest towns in Upper Canada, and was formerly the capital of the Province. It is sit- uated where the old town of Newark stood, and is opposite to Youngstown. It faces the river on one side, and Lake Ontario on the other. The trade of this place has been diverted to St, Cath- erine's, since the completion of the Welland Canal; and the other towns upon the Niagara River have suffered in common, from the same cause. FORT MA8SA8AUOA. FROM NUGARA FALLS TO QUEBEC. 21 TORONTO, the Capital City in Upper Canada, is situated on an arm of Lake Ontario, thirty-six miles from the mouth of Niagara River. This city was formerly called Little York. The first survey was made in 1793. Toronto Bay is a beautiful inlet, separated from the main body of Lake Ontario, except at its entrance, by a long, narrow, sandy beach. The south-western extremity is called Gibraltar Point. The population, in 1817, was 1200 ; but, at the present time, it amounts to about 60,000. With a similai* progress for a few years . to come, the population of this city will be second to none in British America. Among the principal buildings of Toronto, are a Uni- versity and a Cathedral. One of the ecclesiastical edifices deserves especial notice, — the Church of The Holy Trinity; a handsome structure, erected by a donation of five thousand pounds from some liberal person from England, on condition that the whole of the seats should be fret. The Elgin Association, for improving the moral and religious condition of the colored population, is among the most useful institutions of the place. That stupendous undertaking, the Grand Trunk Railway of Canada, passes through Toronto, and promises a splendid future, not only for this city, but for every other city in the country ; for the benefits to be derived from it are incal- culable. Nature has bestowed fine rivers and vast lakes, which havQ already been made fully subservient to commerce ; but how wonder* fully will commerce be advanced by the linking of these lakes and rivers by means of railways. Thus will be constituted one great unbroken medium of speedy communication from the far West of America to the shores of the Atlantic* LAKE ONTARIO. This wonderful sheet of fresh water is 235 feet above the level of the sea, 100 fathoms deep, 200 miles long, and 60 miles wide ; therefore, in crossing it, one necessarily loses sight of land altogether. Nothing can be more delightful than sailing on its magnificent * For farther particulars respecting this city, see McKay's Stranger's Guide* HUNTER'S PANORAMIC GUIDE . \ FROM NIAGARA FALLS TO QUEBEC. LAKE ONTARIO STEAMER. bosom, on a beautiful summer night ; but when the storm arises, its placid character is gone, and we are made to feel that it is a sea in power, and may be so in swifl destructiveness; for in these land-locked basins shipwrecks often occur, not merely of the frail barks of commerce, but even of the stout-built man of war, should she, when caught in one of the fierce gales which so suddenly sweep the lake, be unable to run for her harbor. The harbor of British armed vessels, in the waters of this lake, is Kingston. LAKE ONTARIO FROU NIAGARA RIVER. PORT HOPE is situated sixty-five miles from Toronto. A small stream, which here falls into the Lake, has formed a valley, in which the town is located. The harbor formed at the mouth of this stream is shallow, but safe and commodious. Port Hope is a very pretty town ; on the western side, the hills rise gradually one above another. The highest summit, which is called " Fort Orton," affords a fine prospect, and overlooks the country for a great distance around. The village is incorporated, and contains about 2200 inhabitants. COBOURG lies seven miles below Port Hope, and contains 4000 inhabitants. The town contains seven churches, two banks, three grist mills, iwo d- HUNTER'S PANORAMIC GUIDE I foundries, and the largest cloth factory in the province. It is also the seat of Victoi a College and a Theological Institute. Midway between Port Hope aad Cobourg is "Duck Island," on which a lighthouse is maintained by the government. ':'"-• '•.:.'- KINGSTON. This place was called by the Indians, " CataracquV* A settle- ment waa begun by the French, under De Courcelles, as early as 1672. The Fort, which was finished the next year, was called Fort Front nac, in honor of the French count of that name. This Fort was alternately in the possession of the French and the Indians, until it was destroyed by the expedition under Col. Bradstreet, in 1758. In 17G2, the place fell into the hands of the English, from whom it received its present name. Kingston is one of the most important military posts in Canada. It is one hundred and ten miles from Cobourg, and contains about 11,000 inhabitants. [Before proceedi; g down the St. Lawrence, we will retrace our steps, and briefly notice the places on the American side of Lake Ontario.] . CHARLOTTESVILLE is situated at the mouth of the Gennesee River, and is the port of entry for Rochester. It is seventy-five miles from the mouth of the Niagara. The Gennesee is navigable by steamers to Carthage, five miles from its mouth. At Carthage, passengers can take omnibuses to Rochester, two miles distant. KINGSTON. OSWEGO is the next port, after passing Charlottesville. It is a beautiful and flourishing town, and contains n [mpulation of about 15,000. » It is ' " ' ■" " '- ■'''•■■ -\ --'■■/■ ■ '<:•■■;', FROM NIAGARA FALLS TO QUEBEC. ^5 IS HUNTER'S PANORAMIC GUIDE the commercial centre of a fertile and wealthy part of the country, and is the terminus of a railroad and a canal, con- necting it with Syracuse and the New York Cen- tral Railway. The his- tory of this place is a£,30- ciated with many hard battles, fought during the time of the Indian and the French wars. cape st. vjncent bailboad depot. V SACKETT'S HARBOR. Tliis place is situated about forty-five miles from Oswego, and twenty miles from the St. Lawrence. It lies upon the north-eastern shore of Lake Ontario, and derives its name from Mr. Sackett,. of Jamaica, L. I., who purchased and took possession of it in 1799. It is admirably fitted, from its position, for a naval station, and is now the seat of a military post, called " Madison Barracks." THE THOUSAND ISLANDS are amongst the wonders of the St.. Lawrence ; situated about six miles below Kingston. There are, in fact, no less than 1800 of these " emerald gems in the ring of the wave," of all sizes, from the islet roar hbnry — mabtello towkr CBDAU ISLAND. LIOnTHOITBK ON ONE OF TUB THOUSAND ISLANDS. ft few yards sq:iare, to miles in length. It is a famous spot for pporting; myriads of wih'. fowls ot all descriptions mvy here be ^ FROM NIAGARA FALLS TO QUEBEC. HI found; and angling is rather fatiguing than otherwise, from the great quantity and size of the fish. These islands, too, have been the scene of most exciting romance. From their great number, and the labyrinth-like channels among them, they afforded an admirable retreat for the insurgents in the last Canadian insurrection, and for the American sympathizers with them ; who, under the questionable name of " patriots," sought only to embarrass the British GU)vem- ment. Among these was one man, who, from his daring and ability. VIEWS AHOKO THE THOUSAND ICLAMDS. )e became an object of anxious pursuit to the Canadian authorities ; and he found a safe asylum in these watery intricacies, through the devotedness and courage of his daughter, whose inimitable manage- ment of her canoe was such, that through hosts of pursuers she baffled their efforts at capture, while she supplied him with provi- sions in these solitary retreats, rowing him from one place of con- cealment to another, under shadow of the night. But, in truth, all the islands, which are so numerously studded through the whole chain of those magnificent Lakes, abound with materials for romance and poetry. For instance, in the Manitoulin Islands, in Lake Huron, the Indians believe that the Manitou, that is, the Great Spirit (and hence the name of the islands) has forbidden his chil- dren to seek for gold ; and they tell you that a certain point, where it is reported to exist in large quantities, has never been visited by the disobedient Indian without his canoe being overwhelmed in a tempest. CLAYTON. This village is situated on the American side, opposite to the " Thousand Islands," and is of considerable importance as a lumber 28 HUNTLR'S PANORAMIC GITIDE station. Square timber and staves are here made up into large rafts, and floated down the St. Lawrence to Montreal and Quebec. These rafts are often very large ; and as they require a great number of men to navigate them, the huts erected for their shelter give them, as they pass down the river, the appearance of small villages. Many of the steamers and other craft that navigate Lake Ontario are built here. ALEXANDRIA BAY / is the next port, after leaving Clayton. It is built upon a massive pile of rocks, and its situation is romantic and highly picturesque. It is a place of resort for sportsmen. Some two or three miles below the village, is a position from whence one hundred islands can be seen at one view. . . "^ BROCKVILLE. This village was named in honor of General Brock, who fell on Queenston Heights, in the war of 1812. It is situated on the Cana- dian side of the St. Lawrence, and is one of the pleasantest villages in the province. It is situated at the foot of the Thousand Islands, on an elevation of land which rises from the river in a succession of ridges. The town was laid out in 1802, and is now a place of con- siderable importance. The present population is about 2500. OGDENSBURGH. In the year 1748, the Abbe Francois Piquet, who was afterwards styled the " Ajx)stlc of the Iroquois," was sent to establish a mis- sion at this place, as many of the Indians of that tribe had mani- fested a desire of embracing Christianity. A settlement was began in connection with this mission, and a fort, called " La Presentation," was built at the mouth of the Oswegatchie, on the west side. The remains of the walls of this Fort are still to be seen. In October, 1749, it was attacked by a band of Indians from the Mohawks, who, although bravely repulsed, succeeded in destroying the pallisades of the fort, and two of the vessels belonging to the colony. The Abbe Piquet retired from the settlement soon after the defeat of Mont- <»lm, and finally returned to France, ^here he died in 1781. FROM NIAGARA FALLS TO QUEBEC. 29 In describing the situation of the ground on the east side of the river, opposite to his fort, the Abbe, with his accustomed discrimina- tion, remarked : " A beautiful town could hereafter be built here." This prediction has been fully verified ; and the village of Ogdens- burgh now occupies this site. It is a flourishing town. It has increased rapidly within the few past years, and will doubtless become a large manufacturing place. The Northern Ri;,;iruad, which runs to Lake Champlain, a distance of one hundred and eighteen miles, and which connects at Rouse's Point with the railroads to Boston and Montreal, has its terminus here. ,r- PRESCOTT lin >> )f is situated on the Canada side of the St. Lawrence, opposite Ogdens- burgh, and contains about 3000 inhabitants. Previous to the open- ing of the Rideau Canal between Kingston and Ottawa City (formerly By town), Prescott was a place of importance in the carrying trade between Kingston and Montreal ; but since that event its growth has been checked. Matters have, however, again changed, and for Prescott there are prospects of brighter days to come. Through the influence, and energy, and untiring perseverence of Robert Bell, Esq., of Ottawa City, a railroad has been built, under almost insurmountable obstacles, which extends from Ottawa City to Prescott, and there connects the Ottawa River with the St. Law- rence. The enterprise has, thus far, more than realized the most sanguine hopes of its projector. About a mile below the town of Prescott, at a j^lace called " Wind-' mill Point," are the ruins of an old stone windmill, in which, in 1837, the "Patriots," under Von Shultz, a Polish exile, established themselves, but from which they were driven with severe loss. About five miles below Prescott is Chimney Island, on which the remains of an old French fortifica- tion are to be seen. The first rapid of the St. Lawrence, is at this WINDMILL POINT. island. $• 30 HUNTER'S PANORAMIC GUIDE The next town on the American side is Waddington ; and in the river, over against it, is Ogden Island. On the Canada side is Morrisburg, formerly called West "Williamsburg. It is catied the Port of Morristown, and contains about two hundred inhabitants. OALL0F3 RAPIDS. chryseler's farm. A short distance below Morristown, on the Canada side, is Chryse- ler's Farm, where, in 1813, a battle was fought between the En- glish and the Americans. The Americans were commanded by Gren. Wilkinson, and were at that time descending the liver to attack Montreal. The attempt was afterwards abandoned. Thirty miles below Ogdensburgh is Louisville, from whence stages run to Massena Springs, distant seven miles. i LONG SAULT. This is a continuous rapid of nine miles, divided in the centre by an island. The usual passage for steamers is on the south side. The channel on the north side was formerly considered unsafe and dangerous ; but examinations have been made, and it is now de- scended with safety. Th . passage in the southern cRannel is very narrow, and such is the velocity of the current that a raft, it is said, will drift the nine miles in forty minutes. DESCENT OF THE RAPIDS. This is the most exciting part of the whole passage of the St. Lawrence. The rapids of the " Long Sault " rush along at the rate of something like twenty miles an hour. When the vessel enters within .their influence the steam is shut off and she is carried FROM NIAGARA FALLS TO QUEBEC. 81 ■*» «0 H CO CO o ff> 09 w ca W rs id 82 HUNTER'S PANORAMIC GUIDE :'' *■ BATISTE, AN INDIAN PILOT, STEERING A STEAHEB DOWN THE BAPIDS OF THE ST. LAWRENCE. t-^^^0 FROM NUGARA FALLS TO QUEBEC. 33 •f ■ 'i , LOlfO SAULT BAPIDS. onwards by the force of the stream alone. The surgmg waters present all the angry appear- ance of the ocean in a storm ; the noble boat strams and labors : but, unlike the ordi- nary pitching and tossing at sea, this going down hill by water produces a highly nov- el sensation, and is, in fact, a service of some danger, the imminence of which is enhanced to the imagination by the tremen- dous roar of the headlong, boiling current. Great nerve, and force, and precision are here required in piloting, so as to keep the vessel's head straight with the course of the rapid; for if she di- verged in the least, presenting her side to the current, or " broached to," as the nautical phrase is, she would be in- stantly capsized and sub- merged. Hence the neces- sity for enormous power over her rudder ; and for this purpose the mode of steering affords great facility, for the wheel that governs the rudder is placed ahead, and by means of chain and pulley sways it. But in descending the rapids a tUler is placed astern to the rudder itself, so that the tiller can be manned as well as the wheel. Some idea may be entertained of the peril of descending a rapid, when it requires four men at the wheel and two at the tiller to ensure safe steer- ing. Here is the region of the dar- ing raftsmen, at whose hands are demanded infinite courage and skill : ruid, despite of both, loss of life frequently occurs. VIEW IN THE LONG 8AULT. 94 HUNTER'S PANORAMIC GUIDE Pi O O GQ -«j n H (3 O GQ In FROM NIAGARA FAIXS TO QUEBEC. 8^ ST. LAWRENCE CANALS. ^Gallpps Caqal, - - ^oint L^oquois Canal, - - - - - - Rapid Plat£ Canal, - - - - - - Farren*8 Point Canal ------ Cornwall Canal, Long Sault, - - - - Beauharnois Canal, Coteau, .... Cedars, Split Rock, Cascade Rapids, La Chine Canaly La Chine Rapids, Fall on portions of the St. Lawrence be- tween canals from Lake Ontario to Montreal, .--..--- From Montreal to tide water at Three '■Rivers, .--- Miles. Locks. 2 2 3 1 4 2 i 1 Hi 7 Hi 9 Sh 5 41 27 L. Ft 8. 6. 11.6 4. 48. 82.6 44.9 17. 12.9 234.i '^The St. Lawrence canal was designed for paddle steamers, but from the magnitude of the rapids and their regular inclination the ■aid, of the locks is not required in descending the river. Large steamers, drawing seven feet water, with passengers and the mails, leave the foot of Lake Ontario in the morning, and reach the wharves at Montreal by daylight, without passing through a single ElfTBAMCB TO COBNWALL CANAL. SICKIlfSOM S LANDING. ■m lock. At- some of the rapids there are obstacles preventing the descent of deeply laden crftft ; byt the government are about to give the main qhannel in all the rapids a depth of ten feet water, when the whole descending trade by steam will keep the river, leaving the canals to the ascending craft. , ,. 86- HUNTER'S PANORAMIC GUIDE CORNWALL. This is a pleasant town, situated at the foot of the Long Sault, on the Canada side. Here yessels are passed up the river by the Cornwall canal, and come out into the river about twelve miles . above. The boundary line between the United States and Canada passes near this village, and the course of the St. Lawrence is here- after within Her Majesty's dominions. ST. REGIS is an old Lidian village, and lies a little below Cornwall, on the • opposite side of the river. It contains a Catholic church, which was built about the year 1700. While the building was in progress, the Indians were told by their priest that a bell was indispensable in their house of ^worship, and they were ordered to collect furs suf- ficient to purchase one. The furs ''"^ere collected, the money was sent to Ft nee, and the bell was bought and shipped for '; Canada ; but the vessel which contained it ^ was captured by an English cruiser, and taken into Salem, Massachusetts. The bell was afterwards purchased for the church at Deerfield. The priest of St. Regis, having ST. sBOiB INDIANS. heard of its destination, excited the Indians to a general crusade for its recovery, "^^hey joined the expeditiixi fitted out by the governor against the >.ew England colonists, and proceeded through the then long, trackless wUdemess, to Deerfield, :i which they attacked in the night. The inhabitants, unsuspicious of danger, were aroused from sleep only to meet the tomahawk and scalping-knife of the savages. Forty-seven were killed, and one hundred and twelve taken captive; among whom were Mr. Wil- ' liams, the pastor, and his family. Mrs. Williams being at the time feeble, and not able to travel with her husband and family, was killed by the Indians. Mr. Williams and a part of his surviving family afterwards returned to Deerfield, but the others remained with the Indians, and became connected with the tribe. The Rev. Eleazar Williams, one of the supposed .descendants from this family, < * FROM NIAGARA FALLS TO QUEBEC. 37 lias been mysteriously identified with the lost Dauphin of France. The Indians, after having completed their work of destruction, fast- ened the beU to a long pole, and carried it upon their shoulders a distance of nearly one hundred and fifty miles, to the place where Burlington now stands ; they buried it there, and in the following ■spring remoTcd it to the church at St. Kegis, where it now hangs. : - i - '" ' ^ J, ^ . ;-? . ■ , LAKE ST. FRANCIS *"• This is the name of that expansion of the St. Lawrence which l)egins near Cornwall and St. Regis, and extends to Coteau du Lac, a distance of forty miles. The surface of this lake is interspersed with a great number of small islands. The village of Lancaster is situated on the northern side, about midway of this lake. COTEAU DU LAC is a small village, situated at the foot of Lake St Francis. The name, as well as the style of the buildings, denotes its French origin. Just below the village are the Coteau Rapids. ( tc- .T-t CEDARS. This village presents the same marks of French origin as Coteau du Lac. In the expedition of Gren. Amherst, a detachment of three Imndred men, that were sent to attack Montreal, were lost in the rapids near this place. The pas- sage through these rapids is very exciting. There is a peculiar mo- tion of the vessel, which in descend- ing seems like settling down, as she glides from one ledge to another. In passing the rapids of the Split Rock, a person unacquainted with the navigation of' these rapids will almost involuntarily hold his breath until this ledge of rocks, which is distinctly seen from the deck of the steamer, is passed. At one time the vessel seems to be running directly upon it, and you feel 4 OBDAB BAPIDS. 88 HUNTER'S PANORAMIC GUIDE L FROM NIAGARA FALLS TO QUEBEC. 89 ^sertain that she will strike ; but a skilful hand is at the helm, aiid in an instant more it is passed in safety. * . BEAUHABNOIS is a small village at the foot of the Cascades, on the south bank sF the river. Here vessels enter the Beauhamois canal, and pass around the rapids of the Cascades, Cedarc, and Coteau, into lake Sti Francis, a distance of fourteen miles* On the north bank, a branch of the Ottawa enters into the St Law- rence. The river again widens into a lake called the .St. Louis. From this place a view is had of Montreal Mountain, nearly thirty miles distant. Ir this lake is Nun's Island,* which is beautifully cultivated, and belongs to the Gray Nunnery, at Montreal. There CASCADES FROM EM'^RANCE TO BBAUHARN0I8 CANAL. /i MIHf't ISLAND. are many islands in the vicinity of Montreal belongmg to the dif- , ferent nunneries, and from which they derive large revenues. LA CHINE. This village is nine miles from Montreal, with which it i^ n- nected by railroad. The La Chine Rapids begin just below the town. The current is here so swifl and wild that to. avoid it a canal has been ct^. around these rapids. This canal is a stapendoiis wiH'k, and reflects much credit upon the ener^ and eaterpriae of \ the people of Montreal :!^;.^'!!lTjWg[^'?". HUNTER'S PANORAMIC GUIDE CAUGHNAWAGA. This is an Indian village lying on the south bank of the river^ near the entrance of the La Chine Rapids. It derived its name from the Indians that had been converted by the Jesuits, who were called ^^ CaughnaipagaSi^ or "pray- ing Indians." This was prob- ably a misnomer, for they were distinguished for their predatory incursions upon their neighbors in the New England provinces. The bell that now hangs in their church was the "proceeds" of one of these excursions. The viUage of La Prairie is some seven mileji below Caughnawaga. . < MONTREAL, The largest and most populous city, in fact the commercial metropolis of British North America, is pleasantly situated upon the south shore of an island, and at the base of Mount Royal, from which both the city and the island take their name. The island is about thirty miles long, and ten broad, and is formed by the River Ottawa debouching into the St. Lawrence, at its western and eastern extremities, the former near St Annes, the latter at Bout de Tlsle. It is famed for the fertility of its soil. The city was founded in 1642, upon its present site, and for a long time bore the name of Ville Marie. Hochelaga was the name of the original Indian village, upon which a portion of the city is built, and the eastern suburb of it still retains the name. It was first explored by Jacques Cartier in 1635. Of its early history nothing has come down to us beyond that the French settlers were constantly annoyed by the ravages of the Iroquois Indians. In 1768 it had a population of about 4000 souls, and had evidently been laid out upon the old French plan of narrow streets, and was divided, as now, into upper and lower town ; the upper part then being the level of the present Court house. According to an old chronicle : " In the lower town the merchants and men of business chiefly resided, and here Si. FROM NIAGARA FALLS TO QUEBEC. 41 43 huntbr's panoramic Gnn>B il also were' the place of arms, the royal magazines, and the Nunnery Hospital. The principal buildings were in the upper town, such as ihe palace of the Qovemor, the houses of the chief officers, the Con- yent of the Becollets, the Jesuits' Ohnrch and Seminary, the Free School; and the Parish Ohurch. The houses were solidly constructed in that semi-monastic style peculiar to Rouen, Caen, and other towns in Normandy : some of the buildings of that period are still standing. It was for a long time the head quarters of the French forces in Canada. In 1763 it was surrendered to the English, and about that time it was described as a city of an oblong form, surrounded by a wall flanked with eleven rr^'^oubts, a ditch about eight feet deep, and of a proportionable width, i 'ii'^, and a fort and citadel. At the beginning of i. present century vessels of more than 300 tons could not ascend to Montreal, and its foreign trade was carried on by small brigs and barques. In 1809 the first steam yessel, called The Accommodation, built by the Hon. John Molson, made a trip to Quebec ; she had berths tor about twenty passengers. Now, behold the contrast that fifty years of industry, intelligence, enterprise and labour have produced-— ocean steamers of 3000 tons; the magnificent steamers of the Richelieu Company, vying in splen- dour and comfort with the far famed Hudson River boats ; ships, from 700 to 1200 tons, from all parts of the world, lying alongside the wharves of the harbour — which are not equalled on tliis continent, in point of extent, accommodation, approach and cleanliness. The city, as seen from its approach by steamboat, with Mount Boyal for a back ground, covered with beautiful villas, interspertied here and there with tall spires, is majestic, and for beauty aknopt unrivalled The river frontage is nearly three miles in length, extending from the Victoria Bridge to the village of Hochelaga. For upwards of A mile it has an excellent stone retaining wall from the entrance to the Laohine Oanal to below the Bonseoours Market, which, with its glittering dome, forms one of the most conspicuous objects in the right foreground, and contrasts with the neighbouring spire of the Bonseoours Church, one of the oldest churches in Montreal. We scarcely think the view can be paralleled as you pass under the centre •See page 48. ' FROM NIAGARA FALLS TO QUBBEO. 43 tabe of the Viotoria Bridge, and first view the long array of glitter- ing spires, the lofty towers of the Parish Ohnrch of Notre Dame, the well proportioned tower of the Royal Insurance Buildings, and the long unbroken lin« of outstone stores flanking the wharf, from the steamer. ^^■^^ <^'ff^ O »' > 'Mii tm4*'%m^} FROM NIAGARA FALLS TO QUEBEC. 45^ Ottawa hotels, the v's yi' enters a square called Place d'Armes. It lb iiot large in dimensions, but few on this continent, if any, can equal it in point of its buildings. On the left is the Cathedral of Notre Dame, said to be the largest in North America, and capable of holding ten thousand people. It is about 260 feet long, by 140 feet broad/, and the front facing the square is flanked by two massive towers 220 feet in height. In the one on the left there is a peal of bells, one of which goes by the name of " Gros Bourdon." It is said to weigh nearly 30,000 lbs. ; it has a deep bass sound, and is used as a fire alarm. The tower on the right can be ascended upon the payment of a small fee, and from its battlement a most wonderful prospect is obtained — the broad rolling waters of the St. Lawrence, nearly two miles wide, lying almost at the feet of the spectator, covered with shipping; to the right the Victoria Bridge, Nun's Island, the village of Lapralrie, with the glittering steeple, the boiling rapids of Lachine, the blue hills of Vermont in the far off distance — to the -left, the beautiful island of St. Helens, covered with trees clothed in the proud prosperity of leaves, the villages of St. Lambert and Longueuil, and the river studded witkislands, until its silver course is lost at the village of Verch^res. On the side of the square facing the Cathedral are the Montreal and City Banks. The former one of the most imposing public buildings in the city ; it is built of cut limestone ; its style, modem Grecian. 5 On the left hand of the square are the Merchants Bank, Ontario Bank, the London and Liverpool Insurance Company's office. The former is built of Ohio sandstone, the style is Italian ; the propor- . tions are good. This row is a pretty piece of street architecture. On the right hand side is a fine block called Muir's buildings — a very imposing edifice. The fourth story is occupied by the honorable fraternity of Freemasons, holding under the Canadian Hegister. The lodge room is 52 feet long by 34 feet wide, and is 16 feet high. There are several anterooms. The interior of the lodge room is well furnished and decorated. Next to this block is the British and American Express offices, and the Cosmopolitan Hotel, kept by Gianelli. The centre of the square is laid out as a garden, with a fine foonUun. V. .4B huiteer's PANORAMIO GUnXB Adjoining the square is Great St. James Street, in which there ate ^me fine buildings — r The Poet Office, a well proportioned building, and very ootf- veniently arranged. Opposite to it is the far famed hostelry, the 8i. Lawrence Hall, H. Hogan, proprietor. Passmg down this.fiide of the street the first building that arrests the attention is the Methodist Church, a very commodious and well arranged interior; it posse£»es one of the finest organs in tho city. Just below is l^ordheimer's Hall — the basement is occupied by Messrs. Gtould and Hill, music instrument sellers. On the first floor is a music hall capable of holding a thousand people, it is well adapted for sound. At the end of the street is a large block occupied by the firm of Henry Morgan & Oo., dry goods merchants ; it occu^nes the site of the old American Presbyterian church, built in 1825-6. Nearly opposite this is the Ottawa hotel, kept by W. Browning. Passing on is a novel store front, the premises of Messrs. Prowse ; it is highly ornamental and composed of zinc. Next is Molsons Bank, ihe most j)retentious building in Montreal ; it has two frontages or facades faced with Ohio sandstone. The shafits of the Doric columns of the portico and those of the Corinthian colunms on the Great St. James street front are of polished Peterhead granite. Turning down Peter street, past Molsons Bank upon the left, is a very handsome block, " Cave lill's Buildings " — these stores, without exception, are not surpassed by any thing in Britiidi North America. They are six stories in height, cut limestone. The front is an ela- borate composition in the Italian Falacio style, bold and massive in character. At the bottom of Peter street runs right and 1^ St. Paul street, wherein are congregated nearly all the principal dry good and hardware stores. This street is a credit to the modem enterpiise of Montreal. It is symbolic of tihe wealth of the city. The same remark will equally apply to the stores in Lemoine and McGiH streets. In short, the rapid growth of Montreal during the past seven years is scarcely with a parallel in the history of eves sach cities as Chicago, New York, or Bostouv It will now be simply a duty to point out the various plaoes and things in the city or vicinity of Montreal worth seeing. ^ Foremost is the Geological Museum, facing the Chasip dci Man^ -., «?• FROM NIAQABA FALLS TO QUEBEC. 4T t I. Id u in Gabriel street; this is an institution that Canada may well be proud of. It is under the direction of that able geologist* Sir Wm. Logan, than whom this science has never had one whose soul was more in his work, and whose ability was better able to direct the geologjioal survey of so great a mineral country as Canada. m The University of McGill College, with its museum, and that of the Natural History Society, near the English Cathedral, are well worthy inspection. The tourist can gain information relative to the zoology and ornithology of Canada; and to those who are disciples^ of Isaac Walton, from the curator of the Natural History Society who can give any information r^arding the fishing grounds. It has been remarked, " let me see the resting place of the dead, and I will form an estimate of the living." Granting the premises,, we can say, go to the Mount Roy&l Cemetery. It will compare . favourably with the far-famed Pdre la Chaise at Paris. The ceme- tery is passed in what is called " the drive round the two mountains" \ this is a favourite pastime with the inhabitants of Montreal, and a very delightful drive it is ; going by St. Lawrence street, there is a fine country from C6te des Neiges across the island to the '' Back Biver" or Ottawa, with its numerous hamlets, convents and churches ; and for a pio-nio commend us to the Priests' Island^ close to the old mill by the rapids, Sault au BecoUet, a delightful spot, and where, during the season, a good day's fishing is to be had. The drive out to Lachine, by the upper road, is a great favourite. Crossing over to the Indian village of Caughnawaga, and going off with the pilot, and shooting the rapids, ought not to be missed by the tourist who has not come from the West by steamboat. The piloting is generally confined to the Indians, though why they should have more nerve than others we cannot conjecture ; the task seems a peril- ous one, but it has been done so often without accident that the most timid need not be alarmed, though the steamer is carried away at the rate of nearly thirty miles an hour, apparently not under command,^ 88 she plunges madly into, the boiling rapid, where the breakers are hnge waves, and the spray is dashed sometimes over the funnel of the steamer. There is a keen eye and a steady hand at the wheeL ^ This is an excitement that must be realized ; it fails in description. A day may be spent with pleasure at the little village of St. AnneSi V 4M HUNTER'S PANORAMIC GUIDE -..4.^ :.v^X:*k, .-fr-^'v^i A..r:^■..^. the place where Tom Moore composed his celebrated Canadian boat song, " Row, brothers, row, the rapids are near," &c. The journey can be made either by train to Lachine, thence per Prince of Wales steamer, and back by Grand Trunk Railway — or vice versa — ^the time of starting either way being at the choice of the tourist. UONTRBaL AMD VICTOBIA BEIDOB. '*;A«|t,'' The Victoria Bridge ought to be visited ; on application to the 'engineer's offioe of the Grand Trunk Railway at Point St. Charles, a ticket can be procured to pass through it on foot, the only way in which this grand piece of engineering triumph can be seen with advantage. It is a wonderful structure, and reflects as much <;redit on the successful builders as upon the original designers. The bridge proper rests upon twenty-four piers, and is about a mile and quarter long. The piers are all at a distance of 242 feet, with the exception of the two centre piers; these are 330 feet; upon these rest the centre tube, which is 60 feet above the summer level of the 8t. Lawrence. The piers, or at least their abutments, present to the down stream, which is about seven miles per hour, a sharp-pointed edge, to resist the pressure of the ice in the winter, which offers a resistance of many thousands of tons ; the piers are calculated to resist a pressure of seventy thousand tons. At the centre of the bridge is an opening, so tfiat the visitor may ascend to the top of the centre tube ; from this there is a mt^ificent view of the river. The important part this bridge plays with the uninterrupted communica- tion of the Western traffic with that of the United States — ^Boston, Portland, &o. — need not be dilated on. It is more than commen- surate with its cost— nearly 7,000,000 dollars. It gives to Montreal an unbroken railway communication of 1,100 miles, besides con- PROM NIAGARA FALLS tO QUEBEC. 49 neotions. Bobert Stevenson was the engineer, and Jas. Hodges the builder. " ^i^M^i . . • The Engmeering Works of ♦' eGrand Trunk Railway, at Point St. Charles, near the western end of the Victoria Bridge, are well worthy a visit. Upon application to Bichd. Eaton, Esq., the superintendent of the locomotive department, a ticket of admission may be obtained. Another favourite trip is that to Belosil Mountaip, near St. Hilaire. The latter is a station on the Grand Trunk Railway, about 18 miles from Montreal, and where several trains stop during the day, so that there will be no difficulty in performing the trip without remaining at the village for the night. From St. Hilaire Station the tourist proceeds to the pretty little village of Beloeil, and when conducted to the base of the mountain, it can be ascended with comparative ease— even by ladies — ^by a circuitous path, passing through a maple grove, which leads to a beautiful lake, formed in the hollow of the mountain. This lake abounds with fish. This is the general resting place, before the ascent to the peak, upon the summit of which used to be a small oratory, surmounted with a huge cross covered with bright tin ; this cross was visible upwards of thirty miles. From the site of the oratory, about 1,500 feet above the level of the Biver St. Lawrence, can be obtained a panoramic view, sixty miles in radius. The English Cathedral (Episcopal), in St. Catherine street, is by far the most perfect specimen of Gothic architecture in America. It is well worthy a visit. The whole ne^hborhood is studded with churches — Boman Catholic, Presbyterian, and Wesdcyan Methodist — each vying with a lofty spire to make the ecclesiastical architecture of the city worthy of comparison with the many public buildings with which Montreal abounds. The new Church of the Jesuits is a very imposing edifice. The interior is covered with frescoes of some incident in the lives of our Saviour and his Apostles. Erskine Church, and John Knox Church, CSootch Presbyterian), are two fair specimens of modern Gk>thio. The Wesleyan Church, with its graceful lantern and spire, forms a conspicuous object, though its dimensions are overtopped by the large American Presbyteriaa Church adjoining it. ^ v:. .v«:-i#i*tj :T-f;5-- >^^ii:^Qosscs8ions in North America, was ceded to Great Britain at the peace of 1763. Quebec, including the city and suburbs, contains 174 streets ; among the principal of which are the following : — St. John*s Street^ which extends from Fabrique Street to St John's Gate, in the Upper FROM NIAGARA FALLS TO QUEBEC. 55 '■"> li iW:,V ... 7i'' i 56 HUNTER'S PANORAMIC GUIDE Town, and is occupied chiefly by retail stores ; St. Lout* Street is a handsome and well built street, extending from the Place d'Armes to the St Louis Gate, and is occupied principall^rbj lawyers' offices and private dwellings ; D*AutHeU IStreet faces the Esplanade and the ground where the artillery are drilled, and is an elegant street, mostly of private dwellings ; Chumd AtBee, or St, Louis Road, outside St Louis Gate, anid leading to the Plidns of Abraham, is a pleasant and beautiful street, on which are many el^^t villa r^idences ; St, JohtCe Strett, without^ is also a fine stoeet, occupied by shops and private dweUings. The principal street in the Lower Town is St. Pe^*i on which, and on the wharves and small streets which branch JTom it, most of the banks, insurance companies, and merchant's offices ai'e situated. There are also several fine streets in the St. John's and St. Boch's suburbs. The appearance of these quarters of the city has been much improved since the great fires of 1845 ; the buildings that were then destroyed having been replaced by others of a very superior description. Durham Terrace, in the Upper Town, is a platform commanding a splendid view of the river and the Lower Town. It occupies the site of the old castle of St. Louis, which was burnt in 1834, and was erected by the nobleman whose name it bears. The Public Garden fronts on Des Currieres street, Upper Town, and contains an elegant monument, which was erected to the memory of Wolf and Montcalm, in 1827. The height of this monument is 65 feet ; its design is chaste and beautiful, and no stranger should leave Quebec without visiting it. The Place dArmes is an open piece of ground, around which the old chateau of St. Louis, the government offices, the English cathe- dral, and the court house are situated. . The JSeplanade is a beautiful piece of ground, situated between D'Autueil street and the ramparts. It is used as a drill ground by the Royal Artillery. The Citadel, on Cape Diamond, is one of the most mteresting ob- jects to visitors ; and those who are de.iirous of seein*^; it should make application to the town mayor, at tl o main guard-house, from whom tickets of admission can always be obtained by persons of respecta- FBOM KIAGAKA FALLS TO QU£B£C. 67 The area endliraced within the fortifications of the citadel is more than forty acres. Hie line of fortifications, enclosing the citadel and the Upper Town, is nearly three miles in length, and the guns with which ihey «re moonted are mostly thirty-two and forty-eight pounders. There are five gates to the city, three of which, Presoott, Palace, and H<^ -gates, oommnnicate with the Lower Town, and two of which, St. Louis' and St John's gates, communicate with the suburbs of the same name. About three quarters of a mile from the city are four Jiartello Towers, fronting the Plains of Abraham, and intended to impede the advance of an enemy from that direction. CHURCHES. Thb Roman OathoUe (Jathedrcd, which fronts upon jhe Upper Town market-place, is a large and commodious buUding, but with no .-great pretensions to architecture. The interior is handsomely fitted up, and has several fine paintings by the old masters, which are w^l worthy of an inspection. The church will seat 4000 persons. It (has a good organ. St. Patricias Church, on St. Helen street. Upper Town, is a neat and comfortable building, and is capable of seating about 3000 per- sons. St. Roch*9 Churchy on St. Joseph .and Church streets, in the St. Boch's suburbs, is a large and commodious building, and will seat over 4000 persons. There are several good paintings in this church. The Chwrch of Notre Dame des Vtctoires, on Notre Dame street, is one of the oldest buildings in the city. It has no pretensions to 4ux!hitectural beauty, but it is comfortably fitted up, and mU seat over 2000 persons. PROTESTANT CHTTRCHE8. The MigUsh CatJtecbral is situated between Garden street, St. Ann street, and the Place d'Armes, Upper Town, and is a handsome •odifice, 135 by 75 feet, and will seat between 3000 and 4000 per- sons. This church, which was erected in 1804, has a good organ, ;and is neatly fitted up in the interior. .Trinity Ohirch^ situated on St Nicholas street. Upper Town, is 68 HUNTER'S PANORAMIC GUIDE a neat cut stone building, erected in 1824. It is 74 by 48 feet, and the interior is handsomely fitted up. « tiSil. Petet'a Chapel is situated on St. Vallier street, St. Boch's^ and is a neat plain structure, which will seat about 500 persons. St. PauTs, or The Mariner's Chapel, is a small building near Dia- mond Harbor, designed principally for seamen. Sl Andreufi Churchy in connection with the Church of SootlMid, is situated on St. Ann's street, Upper Town. The interior is well, fitted up, and will seat over 1200 persons. St. John*s Free Scotch Church is situated on St Francis street^ Upper Town. It is a neat plain structure, and will seat about 600 persons. The WesUyan Chapel, on St. Stanislaus street, is a handsome Grothic building, erected in 1850. The interior is well fitted up, and it has a good organ. It will seat over 1000 persons. The Wedeyan Centenary Chapel is situated on D'Artigny street, and is a plain but substantial edifice. The Congregational Church, on Palace street, Upper Town, is a neat building of cut stone, erected in 1841, and will seat about 800* persons. The Baptist Church, on St. Ann street. Upper Town, is a neat stone building, and will seat over 400 persons. The other principal public buildings worthy of notice are : — The Hotel Dieu, Hospital and Church, which front on Palace street. Upper Town, and, connected with the cemetery and garden, • cover an area of about ten acres. The buildings are spacious and substantial, and the Hospital has beds for about sixty sick. The General Hospital is situated on the river St. Charles, in the St. Boch's ward. The Hospital, Convent, and Church are a hand>- some quadrangular pile of stone buildings, well adapted to the pur- pose for which they are designed. The Vrsuline Convent, situated on Garden Street, Upper Town,> was founded in 1641. A number of fine paintings are to be seen h«*e, and application for admission should be made to the Lady Sur- perior. The University of Quebec fnmts on Hope street and the Market* place. Upper Town. The buildings^ which are of nuMsive graj FBOM NIAOABA FALLS TO QUEBEC. !►» Stone, form three sides of a quadrangle, and have a fine garden in the rear. The Court Howe and the City HaU are substantial stone build- ings, situated on St. Louis street, and well adapted to their respectiye purposes. The Jail is situated at the comer of St. Ann and St. Stanislaus streets. Upper Town, and is a massive stone building, and cost about £60,000. It is in a healthy location, and well adapted to the pur- pose for which it was designed. The Jesuit Barracks front on the Upper Town market-place and. St. Ann street. Thej have acconmiodations for about 1000 men.. A battalion of infantry is usually quartered here. The Marine Hospital^ situated on the river St. Charles, in the St. Boch's ward, is intended for the use of sailors and emigrants,, and is a beautiful stone building of four stories. It was erected at a cost of £15,000, and will accommodate about 400 patients. The Lunatic Asylum is situated at Beaup6rt, two and a half mile» from Quebec, and is an extensive building, enclosed in a. park of about 200 acres. The Quebec Music HaU is a handsome cut stone edifice^, recently erected, situated on St. Louis street, Upper Town. The Quebec and Richnwnd Railroad, connecting the city of Quebec with the Montreal and Portland Railroad. A distance of 100 mil§s is now completed, not only to point Levi, opposite to Quebec, but it is extended to St. Thomas, a distance of twenty miles below Point Levi. Among the notabilities of Quebec and its vicinity, is the spot where General Montgomery fell, which is on the road from Cham- plain street to Diamond Harbor, and is pointed out by a board affixed to the cliff above it. The Plains of Abraham, a little to the west of the city, whece^ the celebrated battle was fought between the British forces, under- General Wolfe, and the French forces, under General Montcalm,, should be visited by every traveller. A monument, erected on th& spot where General Wolfe fell, points out the place where the hottest part of the action occurred. Spencer Wood, the former residence of the governor-general, about a mile further west, is an elegant country house. €0 HUNTER'S PANORAMIC GUIDE > HOTELS. ■' ^'fe,;- /^fUsi^r ' RtuseWs Hotel, Palace street, Upper Town, is an excellent estab- lishment. Mr. Russell spares np pains in promoting the comfort of liis guests, and his house affords erery accommodation that the most fastidious can desire. ^ There are also several other excellent houses in die city. The situation of Quebec, and the scenery all around it, are, at «very turn, most beautiful and picturesque. The mountains are tolerably high, and present a fine appearance in the distance. There is a very noble view from the citadel, which, as has been before remarked, is the strongest post in America; and, indeed, next to Gibraltar, Quebec is the strongest fortified place in the world. The view from the citadel is connected with associations of the most in- teresting character. Here may be seen the Plains of Abraham, where, after his bold ascent of the almost impassable heights from the river, Wolfe appeared in arms at morning dawn, and where Mont- calm, with equal courage and gallantry, came out to meet him, though not compelled to do so, and where both heroes fell in the sanguinary strug^e of that day, — each a bitter loss to his country, each a living name in the annals of their military glory, and both a brilliant evi- dence of French and British valor. The memorial of mutual valor here erected is at least an instance of generosity in rivals, which it is pleasant to contemplate. If anything could detract from the hor- rors of war, it would be instances like this. The city of Quebec is one which it is impossible to approach without pleasure, and to leave without regret. Every locality con- nected with the place is fraught with interest to the traveller. As the limits of this work permit only general description, visitors will do well to avail themselves of the small city guides, which they can find at the principal hotels. THE FALLS OF MONTMORENCL ' In taking our departure from Quebec, and on our way down the river, we pass this celebrated cascade. These falls, which are situ- Jited in a beautiful nook of the river, are higher than those of Niag- ara, being more than two hundred and fifty feet ; but they are very narrow, being only some fifty feet wide. This place is a very cele- h- mmm I HUM >'IAGAKA. FALLS TO QUEBEC. 61 .,'• * i:«*- -■-**■■ ^' 62 HUNTER'S PANORAMIC GUIDE brated focus of winter amasements. During the frost; the spray from the falls accumulates to such an extent as to form a cone of some eighty feet high. Tliere is alec a second .cone of inferior alti- tude, and it is this of which visitora make the most use, as being less dangerous than the higlrar >and having arrived at the summit pbM» themselves on these and slide down with immense velocity. Iku^Bai puid gentle* men both enter with equal spirit into this amusement. It requires much skill to avoid accidents ; but sometimes people do tumble heels over head to the bottonir They generally drive to this spot in sleighs, taking their wine and provisions with them; and upon the pure,, white cloth, which nature has spread out for them, they partake of their dainty repast, and enjoy a most agreeable picnic. One does not feel in the least cold, as the exercise so thoroughly warms and invigorates the system. The distance of these falls from Quebee i» eight miles. THE CHAUDIERE FALLS, on the river Chaudiere, nine miles below Quebec,' are also a favor- ite resort, ard are very beautiful and romantic. The river here is about four hundred feet wide, and the height of the falls is one hun- dred and thirty feet. THE ISLAND OF ORLEANS, situated in the river St. Lawrence, immediately below Quebec, is nineteen miles long by five and a half miles wide, and, like the Island of Montreal, is superior in fertility to the main land adjacent to it. Its present population is about six thousand. , j; THE FALLS OF ST. ANNE are situated on the river of the same name, on the nort^i side of the St. Lawrence, twenty-four miles below Quebec, and present a vari- ety of wild and beautiful scenery, both in themselves and their immediate neighborhood. LAKE ST. CHARLES, thirteen miles north of Quebec, is a favorite resoii, of tourists, par^ U FBOM NUOARA FALLS TO QUEBEC. 68 .>• u ticularlj of those who are fond of angling, as the lake abounds in ^e trout GROSSE ISLE IS situated thirty miles below Qnebec Here is the Quarantine Station, — a sorrowful place everywhere ; but there is an unusually melancholy interest attached to this one, irom the fact that no less . than six thousand Irish emigrants were buried in one grave during the terrible year of famine in that country. Apart from these sad- vdening recollections, the island is a fair and agreeable spot, and its scenery is very beautiful Below this island the river becomes wider and wider, and we soon lose sight of land altogether. 3VIALBAIE, ninety miles below Quebec, on the north shore, is a large village, where many of the people of Quebec resort for sea bathing. KAMOURASKA, on the south shore, ninety miles below Quebec, is also a thriving vMlage, very pleasantly situated, and resorted to as a bathing place. * RIVIERE DU LOUP, en bas, IS situated on the south shore, one hundred and fourteen miles below 'Quebec, and is a rising village, much frequented for sea bathing. THE RIVER SAGUENAY falls into the St. Lawrence from the north, at a distance of cme hundred and forty miles below Quebec. This noble river takes its .rise in Lake St. John, raid has a total length of one hundred and twenty-six miles, till it falls into the St. Lawrence. It is navigable for large vessels sixty miles, and at Ha Ha Bay, fifty miles from its mouth, the largest fleet of men-of^ur would find a safe and spacious anchorage. The river is very deepi and at its mouth a line of three hundred and thirty fathoms was thrown without finding the bottom ; and at the distance of sixty miles from the St. Lawrence, its aver- -age depth is from fifly to sixty fathoms. The shores of this river 'i"m^mt-»imp^>>«i«'«<>WJ FROM 19U0ABA FALLS TO QUEBEC. 69 dred, principally French Canadians. The steamboat navigation of the Saguenay en^ here, as the river above is obstructed by rapids and fiUls. Fifty miles above this place is Lake St. John, a fine expanse of vrkiet of about thirty miles in length, and in the widest part the same in breadth ; its superficial area being over five hun- dred miles. Lake St. John, the Saouenat, and the rivers which they receive, abound ia excellent fish. The salmon ascends the Sague^ay to a considerable distance, and is taken in large quantities and shipped to Quebec. ise )Ut ^os- len of lay ich, % GEOGRAPHICAL AND STATISTICAL SKETCH OF CANADA. The Province of Canada, including bo(h its grand divisions^, extends from forty-two to fifly-two degrees of north latitude, and. from sixty-four to ninety-two degrees of west longitude, embracing*, a superficial area of about 330,000 square miles, and having a popu- lation of about 2,250,000 souls. Previous to the year 1791, the whole extent of country now known as Upper and Lower Canada was designated the Provinec of Quebec; but, owing to alleged difficulties in managing the admin- istration of so large an extent of country, it was in that year divided, into two provinces, having separate governments, and so remained until 1841, when they were reunited, and now constitute one prov- ince only. • Lower C&nada, which is considerably the lai^est province, ha» an area of 210,000 square miles, and Upper Canada an area of 121,000 square miles; the population being about 1,200,000 ia Upper, and 1,100,000 in Lower, Cfi}nada. About two thirds of the population of Lower Canada are of French descent, the remainder consisting of English, Irish, Scotdi, Germans, and Americans, or their descendants. In Upper Canad& 6* ps)iippwffri"!JiP!M,iwiwjj,..j, «6 HUNTER'S PANORAMIC GUIDE. the population is made up of colonists, or the descendants of colonists, irom the British Islands ; of the descendants of American loyalists *who emigrated tc Canada afler the revolutionary war; and, in a few localities, there are settlements of Germans and Dutch. In Lower Oanada about four fifths of the people belong to the Roman Catholic Qrarch, the remainder consisting of members of the different Prot- estant churches., and a few Jews ; while in Upper Canada about four fifths of the people are Protestant, and the remainder Roman Catholic At the time of the conquest of Canada, in 1760, the entire popu- lation was estimated at 70,000 ; and a glance at the following sy- nopsis,- from the official retuAs of the different periods mentioned, will 4show the rapid advance which the country has made since that time. LOWER CXI fADA. UPPER CANA DA. Popalation in 1763, . 70,000 Population in 1763, . . . . 12,000 " 1814, . . . 335,000 . " " 1814, . . 95,000 " 1823, . . . 427,000 " 1824, . . , . 151,000 " 1831, . . . 512,000 •' 1832, . . . 261,000 '" 1844, . . . . 600,000 " 1842, . . . . 486,000 " 1848, . . . . 770,000 *' 1848, . . . . 721,000 " 1850, . . . 791,000 <" 1850, . . . . 791,000 " 1851, . . . 890,000 '* " 1851, . . . . 952,000 Estimated in 1854, . . . 1,000,000 EsUmated in 1854, . . . 1,200,000 The total population of Canada, according to origin andreligion, by the census of 1852, was as follows : — Of British origin or descent, in both Provinces, Of French origin or descent, in both Provinces, Of other origin or iluscent, in both Provinces, ToUif of both Provinces, Protestants in both Provinces, . . . Roman Catholics in both Provinces, . Jews in both Provinces, . . . . . 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