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"♦• ' ••♦** ' ♦* ♦•»♦«»— ♦-*^>^^-».» I ». t .»>^ ►^...^s;^^ if .) SEA T3ATHma CA.co"cr2sr^. ^<» (5? #i |ii,a-unwa Mdl n This '* Hall, " which is now undergoing extensive repairs and embellishments, IJlill be lOpeneb for Summer Business • ••• .• • : ! */ • . . .• • • • (^ Applications for Rooms, addressed care of WILLIS RUSSELL, St. Louis Hotel, for the under- signed, will receive immediate attention. JAMES OREIGHTON, . ' Proprietor. GUIDE TO Quebec City AND LOCALITIES IN CONNECTION WITH IT. By TIIOS. J. OLIVER. 7 t tra(5^^t»r?s; PRINTED AT THE MONTREAL " WITNESS" ESTABLISHMENT. 1879. • - • • < ' I » /6H72^ 4^ (5-7) I % PREFACE. The present work is offered to the travellinor public under the ini}jres8ion that it will be of some use to them in tlieir loiterings around the quaint old city of Quebec, and in their visits to the surrounding countr}^, and direct them, in their wanderings in search of the pictur- esque, to other places more remote. The ob- ject aimed at in its preparation has been to give concise information, so that the reader may, at a glance, become acquainted with the history and romance of the different localities, and that being impressed on his memory, his visit may not become altogether a thing of the past, but prove in after days a source of pleasant recollection. It is hardly necessary to state that much of the in- formation has been taken from other works, among which ixiay be mtntioncvl these of Mr. Hawkins; Mr. LeMolne, Dr. Miles IVTo Busfce.U, the Abb(^ Ferland, Mr. De Gaspe, and " Relations des Jesuites." The first part is a short historical sketch of the city ; the city itself is then described ; the surrounding country is next treated ; after which are mentioned the places connected with Quebec by steamer and rail. Quebfc, August, 1878. • • • • • • II I I ) ■ ijstjdex: ■1 The Dufferin Inip^jveiuents Hi.story Dxirham '['errace ('ustle of St. Louis Wolfe and Montcalm Mcjiunnent The l-nion liiiildinj,' The English Cathedral The Place d'Arnies La Maison du Chien d'Or* The Market S(iuare The Basilica The Seminary and Chapel The Laval University The Battery St. John's Gate The Esplanade Richard Montgomery The Citadel St. Louis Street Ursidine Consent and Chapel Hotel-Dieu Convent and Cnapel Churches Morrin College Tiiterary and Historical Society Skating Rink The I)ei)artmental Buildings The Drill Shed Marine Hospital General Hospital The Observatory The New Gaol The Environs Montmorenci Falls pa(;e. - 7 9 - 15 17 - 18 19 - 19 19 - 20 22 - 23 24 - 25 27 - 29 29 - 30 31 - 32 - . ' : .-' 34 r . -. ^'- 38 38, 30, 40, 41, 72, 73 - 39 40 - 44 45 - 45 43 - 44 46 - 49 47 ■ 47 INDEX. Natural StepH ...... L'Ani,'e Guardien ..... Chrituau Richer ..... St. Anne Village an ■r. c • * •6 e C I O '- C I '. I a o D V o » t •> ^ - I'l' . '.:.■■.'-■'/'.■ S SiB'i'ofiY. N 1534 Canada wufeVrJiscovered by Jacques Cartier, of St. Male/'inlFrance. The name is derived from "kanata,j' an Indian word signi- fying "a collection of„hnts." In 1535 Jacques Oartier made a second voyage, and made friends with Donnacona, the (ihfef of Stadacona, where Quebec now stands. , Stadacona is Algonquin, while Tiontirili is HvVron, both meaning " the narrowing of the river."'' " The St. Lawrence is less than a mile wide opposite the city. Jacques Cartier wintered in the Hiver St. Charles, call- ed by him St, Croix. , B[is winter quarters were near the present residence of Air. Park, Ringfield. In 1541 Jacques Cartier made a third voyage, and built a fort at Cap Rouge, and also visited Hochelaga, now Montreal. In 1608 Champlain arrived at Stadacona, and landing his followers, founded the city of Quebec. No satisfactory explanation can be given of the meaning of the word. This city has been besieged five different times. In 1629 Champlain was obliged to deliver up the city and himself and followers to Sir David Kerkt ; but, by the ti.aty of St. Germain- en-Laye, Canada was restored to France, and Champlain returned as the Governor of the 10 GUIDR TO QUEBEC CITY. colony. In October, 1090, Sir William Phipps appeared before the city, and demanded its sur- render, which the proud Count de Frontenac haughtily refused. After a harmless bombard- ment the English fleet retired. In 1711 another English fleet under Sir Hevenden Walker sailed for Quebec, but was almost 'wholly destroyed by a storm in the Gulf of St. Lawrence. For these last two deliverances tha.. little church in the Lower Town was named Notre Dame des Victoires. • :.'. On the 26th June, 1759, Admiral Saunders anchored his fleet and transports, with General Wolfe and the English army on board, off* the Island of Orleans, then called Isle de Bacchus. The troops landed on the Island on the following day, near the church of St. Laurent and marched up to the west end, from which they had a view of Quebec ; while the French army, under the Marquis de Montcalm, consisting of about 13,000 men, was encamped on the opposite shvore of Beauport. General Monckton with four battal- ions occupied the heights of Levis, from which place he bombarded the city and laid it in ruins. General V^olfe then crossed to the mainland, to the east of the River Montmorenci, and on the 31st July attacked the French, and was defeated with the loss of 182 killed, 650 wounded and 15 missing. After some delay the English fleet sailed up past the city, and on the morniEg of the 14th September, Wolfe landed his troops at a place below Sillery, now called Wolfe's Cove, and scaled the heights, dislodging a French guard at HISTORY. 11 '!l o lof a id it the top of the hill, and forming line of battle on the Plains of Abraham, opposite the city, much to- the astonishment of Montcalm, who hastened from Beauport with his army by the bridge of boats- across the mouth of the River St. Charles, and at ten o'clock both armies were engaged in conflict, which in a short tiiDne jenrled in the defeat of Montcalm, who was '^o.unded and carried into the city. Wolfe died' 'on the field, victorious,, and the spot is now mai:l;^pd by a monument erect- ed to his memory. Mowtcalm was buried in the Ursuline Convent. The;. French army retreated towards Beauport and, afterwards to Cap Rouge, and on the 1 8th September, the city of Quebec was surrendered to' the Enoflish, and General Murrav was left there jis governor, with a garrison force of 6,000 men. The' fleet, with Wolfe's body on board, sailed for Eiiorland in October. On the 28th April, in the following year, the French army oi about ten thousand men, under De Levis, appeared on the Plains of Abraham, and was met by the English under General Murray^ whose force consisted of about three thousand men, sickness and death having thus greatly reduced their numbers. The English were obliged to retire behind the fortifications of the city, but on the loth May, an English fleet, under Commodore Saunders, arrived with men and reinforcements, when the French army retreated and Canada became an English Colony. In 1775 Quebec was again threatened. Gen- eral Arnold, with a small army of Americans, arrived on. the heights of Levis by the Chaudi^re 12 GUIDE TO QUEBEC CITY. valley, and on the 14th November landed his forces at Wolfe's Cove, from which they occupied St Foy and St. Roch. General Montgomery arriv- ed on the 1st December, and took command. The garrison of Quebec, under Ool. Maclean, consisted of about eighteen hun(Ji-e4 men. The Governor, Guy Carleton, hastenecj down from Montreal to do his utmost to place the city in safety. Arnold occupied a house on *the south side of the St. Charles river, to the e&.st of Scott's bridge, while Montgomery established himself in Holland House, on the St. Foy- road. The American troops were quaitered in the suburbs of the city, and e/en in the Intend^-fits Palace, at the foot of Palace Hill, which was soon reduced to ruins by the fire from the city. . ;, , . On the 31st December, Montgomery advanced with seven hundred men .<^long Champlain street, and came upon a barrier at which was a guard. At the approach of the >^fi\/3ricans a cannon was fired, with deadly effect, 'killing Montgomery, his two aides and others, and causing the immediate dispersion of the enemy. Arnold at the same time advanced from St. Roch along St. Charles street, expecting to meet Montgomery at the foot of Mountain Hill, and make a combined assault. Arnold occupied the houses on Sault-au-Mattlot street, but was ejected from there by a volunteer officer, Mons. Dambourges. Arnold was wounded and taken to the General Hospital. The Ameri- can loss in killed and wounded was about a hundred ; four hundred and twenty-six rank and file surrendered, and were placed under guard in ^ HISTORY. 13 •d in the Seminary. The remainder continued to occupy St. Roch till the (ith May, when re- inforcements arrived from England and the siege was raised. Montgomery's body was taken to a house on St. Louis street, now occupied by Messrs. Derb}^ & Han.^oiV, brass litters, and after- wards buried at the foot' of the Citadel Hill, from which it was subseqiif^^tly taken and buried in New York. f/h"' In 1837, Quebec was in a state of excitement, caused by the rebellion* of that year. The militia were called out and thtV city placed under military rule, but nothing of consequence occurred. One night, however, was heard a loud ringing of bells, and it was said that the rebels had risen and would sack the place. The cause of all this alarm was, nevertheless, very simple — the singeing of a pig in the Hotel ])ieu Nunnery yard. In the following year, Messrs. Teller and Dodge, two American rebel sympathizers, who were imprison- ed with three othei's in the Citadel, very cleverly effected their escape. Four of them let themselves down from the flagstaff bastion, and Teller and Dodge succeeded in passing through the city gates and afterwards reached the United States. In 1832 and 1834, Quebec was visited by that dreadful scouro^e, Asiatic Cholera. In the latter year the Castle of St. Louis was destroyed by fire. On the 28th of May, 1845, the whole of St. Roch was also burnt down, and on the 28th June in the same year nearly the whole of the St. John and St. Louis suburbs suffered a similar fate. By these two fires over $2,000,000 worth of property 14 GUIDE TO QUEBEC CITY. i' ; i was destroyed, towards covering \\hich $400,000 were subscribed in Canada, England and the United States, and $500,000 were received from insurance. In 1846, in the month of June, the Theatre, formerly the Riding School attached to the Castle of St. Louis, was destroyed by fire during a per- formance, when the bniiding was crowded, and fifty-five persons lost tnoir lives. ' Quebec has often been the prey of extensive conflagrations. In 18o^i' the Parliament Houses were burnt down, when- a large library and museum were lost. 'the\ sittings of the House were then transferred £6 the church of the C rey Sisters near Gallows HiJlywhich had not then been consecrated. It howeverjl:ill a prey to the devour- ing element, and the sittings were afterwards held in the Music Hall in Louis street. « • • ■ Since the year 1867, the date of Confeder- ation, Quebec has been thv>seat of Government of the Province of Quebec and the residence of the Lieutenant-Governor, whose beautiful place, Spencer Wood, is well worth a visit from the stranger. The present Parliamentary Buildings will be vacated as soon as the new edifices on the Grande Allee — structures, more worthy of the Ancient Capital of Canada — are ready for occu- pation. f to ¥S3^ dl'L^Y. THE DURH-Ml TERRACE. Standing on the Ourliam Terrace, called after Lord Durham, a^ fpruier Governor of Canada, or, as it is sometimes^named, the Platform, the be- holder is presented with a view which equals any in other parts of the world. The famed Bay of Naples has often beon mentioned in comparison with it. Being at an elevation of over two hun- dred feet, a magnificent panorama stretches be- neath one, which at the first cowp d'oell is almost bewildering. The River St. Lawrence, bearing on its bosom hundreds of vessels of every descrip- tion, from the tiny canoe, which from such a height appears but a speck, to the terraced palace river boat and the huge ocean steamship, flows ma- jestically onward to the sea. Opposite in the dis- tance, is the town of Levis, crowning cliffs as high as those of Quebec, and where may be seen the three immense forts erected by the English Government at a cost of £5,000,000 sterling, which render an attack from the south an im- practicable if not an impossible attempt. Amid the groups of houses are distinguishable churches, convents and schools, while dowmwards is seen the spire of the Church of St. Joseph. Towards IG GUIDE TO QUKBEC CITY. the east is iho Island of Orleans, once called the Isle de Bacchus, fioni the quantity of grapes then so luxurious of growth, l)ut now no more. On either side, til e St. Lawrence passes onward under the names of th(i North and the South Channels. ( )n the north shore, forty miles in the distance, frowns Cap Tourment^; while, as the eye follows upwards, along the shore ai'e the villages of St. Anne, La bonne St. A?ine, as lovingly called by the villagers, Chateau Richer, L'Ancje Guardien and Beau port. Nearly • opposite the end of the Island is the indentatioh where rudh forever the Falls of Montmorenci ov'e'r^the precipice, and from which rises a pillar of fleecy mist. In the rear of all these tower range atler range of the Laurentian "-. Mountains, till their blue summits are lost in the azure of the sky. Beneai/f/ lies the Lower Town wdth its busy crowds. "'At the mouth of the St. Charles is the Custom ' House, and immediately below the Terrace is the*6hamplain Market Hall, an edifice the result of a political job, whereby a noble Parliament Hcfusjj'was spoiled to give place to a useless Hall. Close by it is the Church of Notre-Dame des Victoires, built in 1615 by Champlain, called first Notre-Dame de la Victoire- to record the defeat of Admiral William Phipps in that year, and its present name to commemorate the loss of the English Fleet under Sir Hevenden Walker in 1711. At the foot of the cliff runs Champlain street, tlirough which on the 31st December, 1775, Richard Montgomery endeavored to lead an attack on the city, but met his death at a place close by, now marked by a woodeu CASTLE OF ST. LOUIS. * n sign with the inscription : " Here Montgomery fell." Beneath the steps leading from Champ- lain street to Mountain Hill, called Break-neck Stairs, was discovered a short time ago the tomb of Champlain. His house was in the vicinity of the Church of Notre-Dame des Victoires. Prescott Gate, called after General Prescott, and demolish- ed in 1871, stood at the spot where the city walls are divided, close to the foot of the steps opposite the Parliament Buildings — a miserable, shambling construction, a disgrace to the Province. They occupy the site on which once stood the Bishop's Palace, and where the first cemetery was •established, from which in late years have been taken bones and articles of Indian workmanship. In the Parliament Buildings little is to be seen, saving the Assembly and Council Chambers, and a good library of English and French works. CASTLE OF ST. LOUIS. Turning our eyes citywards, we find a large building now used as the Laval Normal School, heretofore forming part of the outbuildings of the Chateau St. Louis, which was erected by Champ- lain in 1620, where the Terrace now is, standing on the edge of the cliff Here the French and English governors resided under their respective dominations, until its destruction by fire in 1834, at that time occupied by the Governor, Lord Aylmer. On the 31st Dec, 1775, on the occasion of the night attack by Montgomery and Arnold, the Governor, Sir Guy Carleton, was giving a \ 18 GUIDE TO QUEBEC CITY. ball in the Castle, and the officers had to rush to the walls in their ball costume. Tlie garden attached to the Castle, called the Castle Garden,, commonly known as tlie Lower Governor's Garden, is now o])en to the public; in it is a masked battery of four guns and two carronades on the Crescent battery. On tlie slope towards the Place d'Armes, once stood the Riding School in connection with the Castle, and afterwards con- verted into a theatre, which was destroyed by tire in June 184G, during a performance, when forty -five persons were burnt to death. WOLFE'S AND MONTCALM'S MONUMENT. V In the Upper Governor's Garden is the monu- ment erected to Wolfe and Montcalm, the founda- tion stone of which was laid by the Earl of Dalhousie, the Governor-in-Chief, on the 15th May, 1827. The following are the inscriptions : Mortem, virtus, communem, Famam Historia, Moiiumentum Posteritas Dedit. Hiijiisce Monumenti in virorum illustrium, WoLB^E et Montcalm. Fundamentiim P. C. G-eorgiiis, Comes de Dalhousie : In septentrionalis Americas partibus Summam rerum adminis'trans ; Opus per multos annos praetermissum. Quid duci egregio convenientius ? Auctoritate jiromovens, exemplo stimulana Munificentia f ovens, Die Novembris xv, A. D. MDCCCXXVII, Georgio iv, Britanniarum Rege . THE UNION BUILDING. 11) In passing iho gate of the Normal School, the .stranger may notice a stone which has been incorporated into the wall, bearing the date 1()47, and having a Maltese ci'oss carved upon it. THE UNION LriLDING. To the north of the Place d'Armcs is the Union Building, where in the year 1808, and for some time afterwards, the famous Club of Barons, comprising the principal men of the province and city, were wont to hold their annual dinners. It was afterwards used as an hotel, and is now let out into offices. THE ENGLISH CATHEDRAL. To the west of the Place d' Amies is the English Cathedral, built on the ground where once stood the ancient church of the Recoil ets and their convent, which were destroyed by lire in 1796. The present building was consecrated in 1804; it is bnilt in the Roman st3de of archi- tecture, and its mural monuments are very fine. In the north-east corner of the Cathedral close once stood the venerable elm tree under which Jacques Cartier first assembled his followers on their arrival in the colony. It was blown down on 6th September, 1845. THE PLACE D'ARMES. The Ring, or Place d'Armes constituted in the time of the French the Grande Place, where 20 GUIDE TO QUEBEC CITY. military ])ara(les were held and public meetings called, and was the f'aHhionable promenade of the day.^ To the south of the Cathe(h'al are tlie Rectory and the Chapel of All Souls, in rear of which are tlie ruins of the Court House, destroyed l)y fire in 1873, and with it the records and law pro- ceedings of a century. -> LA MAISON DU CHIP:N D'OR. Passing to the north ' by Fort street, we come to the handsome Post Office, erected in 1873, on the site of the old building, which has a w^orld of history connected with it. The famous Golden Dog, a puzzle to so many, occupies its old posi- tion above the door on Jhiade street, just opposite the Chien d'Or restaurant, as much resorted to in these days as was the inn kept by Miles Prentice in former times, when Montgomery and Admiral Nelson frequented it. Underneath the Golden Dog are the lines : Je suis un chien qui ronye I'os, En le rongeant je i)ren(Is mon repos, ITn teini)H viendra, (iiii n'est pas venu, Que je niorclray (jai ni'aura mortlu. 1730. In demolishing the ancient structure, a corner stone was found, on which was cut a St Andrew's Cross betw^een the letters P H, under the date 1735. On this was found a piece of lead bearing the following inscription : ' NlC(3LA.S JaqUES, dit Philiber m'a pose le 2G Aout, 1735. LA MATSoN DU CHIKN D ( >R. 21 The story in connection therewitli is told as follows : — In this buihlintr lived a wealthy mer- chant of the name of Philil)ert, who had many causes of com])lai!it against the Intendant, whose high ])osition could not easily he assailed by the simple merchant without sutterlng severe retalia- tion ; he therefore satisfied his revenge by placing the (lolden Dog, with the attendant lines, above his door. Among other things the Intendajat had organized a vast trading monopoly, which received the name of La Fi'iponne, whose tran- sactions id dealings were most oppressive to the people, and in this he was resisted and some- times circumvented by M. Philibert. It is also said that to annoy M. Philibert, the Intendant, the infamous Bigot, quartered troops upon the Chien d'Or. Be this as it may, a f quarrel ensued between M. Philibert and Mons. de la Repen- tigny, in which the former was fatally wounded, and the latter fled to Nova Scotia, then Acadia, till he received his freedom from the King of France, Louis XIV., wherecm he returned to Quebec. After the siege of 1759, he went to Pon- dicherry, where, meeting the son of his victim, he was killed by him in a duel. A less tragic occurrence took place a few years later in the Chien d'Or. Miles Prentice, who had come out as a sergeant in the 78th Regiment, under Wolfe, opened an inn in the building, then known as the Masonic Hall, to which inn resorted all the fashionables of the day, among whom was, in 1782, Captain, afterwards Admiral Nelson, then commanding H. M. 8. "Albemarle," of 26 W^^^^MMU Ul 22 GUIDE TO QUEBEC CITY. guns Miles Prentice had a niece, Miss Simpson, daughter of Sandy Simpson, whose charms so captivated the embryo Admiral, that when his vessel had sailed from port, he clandestinely returned for the purpose of wedding "the maid of the inn," which purpose was defeated by Mr. Alexander Davidson, a Quebec merchant, who, with the assistance of the boat's crew, forcibly carried the amorous captain on board his vessel. This timely interference gained for England many a glorious naval victory, and lost for Lady Hamilton her good name. It was Mrs. Prentice who recognized the body of Richard Montgomery after the ineffectual attempt of Dec. 31st, 1775. A horrible suicide is another of the incidents of the Chien d'Or. Passing along Buade street, we come to the building now occupied as a printing office by the Messrs. Brousseau, the scene of the thrilling events of 1690, recorded in the historical romance of Francois de Bienville, by Mr. Marmette. THE MARKET SQUARE. In the centre of the Square once stood the Market, a very Old World looking structure of many corners and angles. Across the Square to the west, are what is left of the ruins of the Jesuit Barracks, formerly the College of Jesuits, the foundations of which were laid in 1635. The building was destroyed by fire in 1640, and again rebuilt. It occupied the four sides of a square, and revelled in immense corridors and gloomy _ — ^ '— THE BASILICA. 23 passages, while impregnable vaults and cells abounded in the ground basement. They were taken possession of by the English as barracks, and ''-ontinued to be used as such till the with- drawal of the Imperial troops, a short time after which they were razed to the ground by order of the Dominion Government, and the land will probably be parcelled out into building lots and sold. This is the end of one of the most noted of Quebec's ancient structures. To the south of the Square is the restaurant of Mr. Grondin, which was the first inn in Quebec, kept in 1648 b}'^ one Jacques Boisdon, having the sign '' Au Baril d'Or," with the added words, " J'en bois done." Jacques Boisdon had the right by deed, signed by M. D'Ailleboust, Pere Lalement, and the Soeurs Chavigny, God- froi and GifFard, to serve his guests, provided it be not during mass, the sermon, catechism, or vespers. To the north of the Square are the stores of Messrs. Fisher & Bloum, saddlers, and that of Mr. Seifert, jeweller; here, in 1810, resided General Brock, the hero of Queenst nvn Heights. THE BASILICA. The French Cathedral, raised to the rank of Basilica in 1876, was consecrated in 1666, bv Monseigneur de Laval, who arrived from France in 1659, on the 6th June, under the title of Bishop of Petrea. He was the first Bishop of the colony, and on accouict of failing health was obliged to MTi GUIDE TO QUEBEC CITY. retire from his arduous labors, and was succeeded •by Monseigneur De St. Valier. The construction of the church in rear of the altar rails is a cop}" of 'St. Peter's at Rome. Among the valuable paint- ings may be mentioned the following: The Conception, after Lebnin, by an Unknown Arti^^t. St. Paul, by Carlo Maratti. Christ, Attended by Angels. The Flight of Mary and Josei)h, a Coj^y, by T. Hamel. Christ, by Van Dyck . Nativity of Christ, Copy of Giiido. Christ Submitting to the Soldiers, by Fleuret . Pentecost Hymn. The Holy Family, by Jacques Blanchard. The Annunciation, by Jean Ristort . St. Anne and the Tomb of the Saviour, by Plamondon . The sacred vestments may be seen on appli- cation to the verger. They are the finest in Am- erica. The building was greatly injured by the «iege of 1759, and some valuable paintings ut- terly destroyed. THE SEMINARY AND CHAPEL. To the north is the Seminary Chapel, in which are the following valuable paintings : Jesus and the Woman of Samaria - The Virgin Attended by Angels - The Crucifixion The Desert of Thebais Terror of St. Jerome The Ascension .... The Sepulchre .... The Flight into Egypt Two Angels .... Ecstasy of St. Antoine de Padua - Pentecost St. Pierre Delivered from Prison - Desert of Thebais Baptism of the Saviour • Lagrenc^ . Dieu. Moint. Gnillot Copy by A. Plamondon. Ph. Champagne. Hertin . Vauclos. ' Ch. Lebrun. Jos. Raoul d' Avignon. Ph. Champagne. Ch. de la Fosse. Guillot. Claude Guy Hall^. ^i THE LAvAL UNIVERSITY. 25 le St. Jerome Writing - - - J . B. Chami)agne. Adoration of the Magi - (Signed) Bossieu. St. John the Baptist. St. C-harle.s Borromm^e. Passinof throuj^h the ijate, the visitor finds himself on the Seminary Square, on three sides of which are erected the Seminary, which was founded in 1663 by Monseigneur de Laval. The building was destroyed by fire on the loth Nov- ember, 1701, and was rebuilt and again destroyed on the 1st October, I70o, when it was again re- built, but almost entirely demolished during the siege of 1759. The College is divided into the Grand Seminary, a school of divinity having seven professors and about thirty-four students ; and the Petit Seminary, for general education, has about five hundred and fifty pupils, instructed by over forty professors. Passing through the inter- minable corridors, the lower one of which is partly under ground and lighted by barred win- dows, one becomes bewildered and would easily lose himself in the endless turnings and descents. One may easily imagine himself in the dim periods of the Middle Ages, an illusion rendered more vivid by the sombre figures of robed priests pacing up and down the vast galleries. THE LAVAL UNIVERSITY is reached by a passage from the Seminary or by the front entrance. The boarding-house is separated from the principal building, as is also the School of Medicine. The structure was erect- GUIDE TO QUEBEC CITY. ed in 1857, founded hy Monseigneur de Laval, and is under the protection of Hia Eminence Cardinal Alexandre Franchi. The visitor is His Grace the Archbishop of Quebec, and the rector, Rev. T. E, Hamel. There are four chairs, — Theology, Law, Medicine and Art, there being thirty-four profes- sors and nearly three hundred students. Seven Colleges and Seminaries are affiliated with the Univ^ersity. There are several large halls, con- taining the Museums of Geology, Natural History, Arts and Sciences. The Picture Gallery lately instituted is yearly receiving large additions, while the library is the largest in Canada, and rich in valuable MSS. relating to the early history of the country. From the promenade on the roof a magnificent view of the valley of the St. Charles and down the St. Lawrence can be had. This University is every day becoming more popular, not only with the French Canadians, but throughout the Dominion and the United States. The remains of Monseigneur de Laval, which had been interred after his death, 6th May, 1708, in the Basilica, and afterwards exhumed and re- interred in the same place by Mgr. Pontbriand, were discovered during some excavations in the Basilica in 1877, and were reinterred with great ceremony and pomp on the 23rd May of the present year (1878,) a procession bearing the re- mains and visiting the four churches which it is said were visited by the first funeral cortege, the Seminary Chapel, the Ursuline Chapel, the Congregational Chapel, and the St. Patrick's ^ THE BATTERY. 27 Church. (The Recollet Church being no longer in existence). On this occasion 100 guns were tired at intervals of one minute and a half, from the Jesuit Barracks yard, by the Volunteer Field Battery. THE BATTERY. Leaving the University by the eastern enirance, the visitor finds himself on the Battery, coming in rear of the Parliament Buildings. The following are the names of the different batteries, extending to Palace Gate : The Assem- bly Battery, 9 guns ; the Grand Battery, 17 guns ; the St. Charles Battery, 2 guns and 3 bombs ; Half Moon Battery, 1 gun ; Hope Gate Battery, 4 guns ; Montcalm Battery, 4 guns ; Nunnery Bat- tery, No. 2, 4 guns and 2 howitzers; Nunnery Battery, No. 1, 2 guns and 2 howitzers. In ad- dition to these there are, in the Lower Governor's Garden, Wolfe's Masked Battery of 4 guns and 1 Palliser cannon, and two minor batteries with 4 guns. Hope Gate, like the others, has been de- molished, and a promenade occupies the site of the former Block House. At a short distance to the west of this promenade is the one time residence of Montcalm, now converted into ordinary dwelling-houses. Proceeding along by the Battery road, the view^ of the St. Charles valley and the Lauren- tides is enchanting, and the suburbs of St. Roch stretch by the banks of the meandering St. 28 GUIDE TO QUEBEC CITY. n Charles till they merge into green fields and happy-looking farms. The next gate is Palace Gate, demolished beyond recognition. Its guard is now no more, and the barracks which once stood on the opposite side of the street were one Chiistmas night destroyed by fire, the result of the freedom allowed to the men by the Colonel. The consumption of liquors generated carelessness, which ended in a mass of ruins on the following morning. Outside the gate, at the foot of the hill, in rear of Pioswell's Brewery, is all that remains of the Intendant's Palace, once the abode of luxury, the scene of revelry and debauchery, a building which outshone in splendoi' and magnificence the Castle of St. Louis, and whose lords considered themselves the equals, if not the superiors, of the Governors. Here the infamous Bigot concocted the nefarious plottings of the Friponne ; here he squandered the thousands which he robbed from the Public Treasury, and pilfered from the down- trodden inhabitants of New France. His princely mansion now serves but as vaults for casks and puncheons of ale and poi*ter. In close proximity to the Artiller}^ Barracks are the ofiicers' quarters, delightfully situated in a shaded park, rejoicing in a shubbery, wild and luxurious, forming the beau ideal of cool retreats, ar :;' ?>iles of brick and mortar. It is now in of the Young Women's Christian ^.,.;>;-.w..'' 20 ST. JOHN'S GATE. This is the only gate left to Quebec, and that but a modern structure, which might as well have been left unbuilt It has no advantage and a very great drawback, as the up[)er part is not impervious to water, which now continuously falls upon those passing under it. Opposite the gate, within the walls, is one of the old buildings, but it has outlived its story, and imagination has not unravelled it. It is occupied by Mr. Johnson, a baker. THE ESPLANADE. On D'Auteuil Hill, where a street has been cut through the city walls, is the Church of the Congregation. In this church was commit- ted a daring robbery and sacrilege; the altar ornaments being stolen by a man named Chambers and his gang, who, at the time, over forty years ago, inaugurated a reign of terror by his astounding and many robberies. For this last crime, however, he and his gang were found guilty and transported. Opposite is the Espla- nade, which runs as far as St. Louis street, and is guarded to the west by the city walls. From the summit one can trace the old French foi titi- cations which defended the city in its early history ; but these are fast disap})earing ; road- makers and house-builders are using up the material, and there is no one to say nay to the van- dals. Before the withdrawal of the Imperial ..k 30 GUIDE TO QUEr>t:C CITY. troops, the Esplanade was strictly guarded ; sentinels |)atrolied the ramparts, and no thorough- fare was allowed after gun fire, ]3ut it is now the resort of all the atlilotic clubs in the city ; lacrosse, foot-ball, bass-ball, cricket, and other games are played there continually during the summer, and snovvshoeing and tobogganing are the amusements of winter. The Band of B Battery, at times delights the promenaders with their evening concerts, and here also the occu- pants of the Citadel and the volunteers perform their evolutions. There are still some remnants of past glory A few dismounted cannon may be found on the ramparts, while a dozen more lie side by side on the ground beneath these, and the sentinel ])oplars still keep their watch as of yore. To the south of the Esplanade is the Executive Department, where His Honor the Lieutenant- Governor receives his visitors on New Year's Day, and where are held the meetings of the Council of the Province of Quebec. I'his building was formerly the residence of Chief- Justice Sewell. In rear of this is the armory of the volunteers. RICHARD MONTGOMERY. Close at hand, on the Grande All^e, is where once stood St. Louis Gate. Near the foot of the Citadel Hill, which winds up on the south side, is where Richard Montgomery was buried, after the attempt on 3Lst Dec, 1775, from which place, on 16th June, 1818, his body was taken to I THE CITADEL. 1 New York, aud interred in St. Paul's Church Cemetery. THE CITADEL. At the top of the Hill is the chain gate, by which access to the trenches is gained ; and to the Citadel the visitor passes through Dalhousio Gate, called so after Lord Dalhousie, once a governor of the Colony. At this gate a guard is stationed, and visitors are here furnished with a <:ruide to show them over the Citadel. Behind the walls are casemated barracks for the troops, and these are loopholed for musketry, so as to command the trenches, while on the summits are cannon commanding all approaches to the city and landwarc^, while on the opposite side are bat- teries commanding the harbor. Two Armstrong guns are here mounted, as also a huge Palliser. Across the Citadel Square are the officers' quarters ; stores for ammunition, stables and other build- ings occupy the western portion of the Square. To the south, directly overlooking the river, is the Flagstaff Bastion, on which is mounted an Armstrong gun. This battery is over three hund- red and fifty feet above low water, and the view from it is the grandest in the world, commanding the river up and down for many miles. To the west are the Plains of Abraham, where was fought the decisive battle of 13th September, 1759. Three Martello Towers are to be seen, constructed weak towards the city, so as easily to be destroyed in the event of capture, and strong ' GUIDE 10 (^UERFX' CITY. on the outer side, having cannon mounted. Im- mense military stores are constantly kept ready for use in the Citadel, and arms for twenty thousand are ready at a moment's notice. In the event of the capture of the city, it co^dd easily be destroyed from the Citadel. The B Battery, consisting of about two hundred rank and tile, are now (quartered there, and seem but a handful in the immense fortress. ST. LOUIS STREET. Descending the Citadel Hill, we return to St. Louis street., At a short distance on the left hand side, is the City Hall, built on the site of the house once . occupied by the chemist, M. Anions, to which, as stated by some, Montcalm was carried from the Plains of Abraham after being wounded. The third house from the next corner on the same side, now occupied by Messrs. Derby & Hansen, brass-fitters, is the house to which General Montgomery's body was taken on that fatal 31st Dec, 1775. It was then occupied by a cooper named Gaubert, and from it the body was taken and buried, as above mentioned, at the foot of the Garii^on Hill. Further down the street, on the right hand side, is a large building, now occupied b}' Col. Forrest, which Intendant Bigot, with his wonted liberality with things not belonging to him, pre- sented to his mistress, the beautiful Madame Paen, nee Angelique Des Meloises, the wife of De Paen, Bigot's chief assistant in all his nefarious trans- ST. LOUIS STRKET. 33 w actions. After Bit'ut had returne lines in Canada and the United States, and even in Europe. Opposite is the St. Louis Hotel, the best in the city as regards locality and everything else. To the right of the Hotel is the Music Hall, where operas, theatricals, concerts and lectures are held, — when there are any. To the east of the hotel is the building now used by the Depai-tment of Crown Lands, once the residence of the Duke of Kent, the father of Her Majesty Queen Victoria. In 1791, he enlivened the elite of Quebec society hy his dinners and pet its soupern, which too often attained a doubtful celebrity. Afterwards the building was occupied by Judge Van Fe]son, a great friend of the Duke's, and a constant guest at his petiis soupers. When passing down Palace street, the visitor will notice a statue of General Wolfe in a niche in front of the house at the westerly corner of Palace and John streets This statue, carved by the brothers Cholet for Mr. Hipps, a butcher, proprietor of the then house, was placed by him in the niche, in 1771. The Albion Hotel is on the right hand side of the street, and directly opposite it is an old-fashioned building with the dis- tinguishing thick wall and cavernous vaults of the Fiench era ; in this house resided M. Brassard Duchesnaux, the bosoin friend of tlie infamous Intendant Bigot. I >; 1 i ! 38 GUIDE TO QUEBEC CITY. THE HOTEL-DIEU. On the opposite side of the street, at a short distance, is the entrance of theHotel-Dieu Convent and Hospital, founded in 1639 by the Duchess d'Aiguillon, who brought out the Hospitalieres T*Juns and placed them in charge. Prior to the siege of 1759 it was destroyed by fire, and afterwards rebuilt. It consists of a convent and a hospital in which pati( nts are treated gratis. At times, the house of these benevolent ladies is filled with unfortunate iavalids, who receive unremitting care and attention from the Sisterhood. The bones of the martyr, the Rev. Father Gabiiel Lalement, are deposited in the convent. The entrance to the chapel is on Charlevoix street. The following are among the paintings : The Nativity, The Virgin and Child, - Vision of St. Therese, St. Bruno in Meditation, The Descent from the Cross, The Twelve A postles, The Monk in Prayer, - Stella. Noel Gypel. Geul Manigeot. Eustache JjeSoeur. Copy by Plamondon. Copy by Baillarge the elder. De Zvibaran. CONGREGATIONAL CHURCH. Opposite the entrance to the Hotel-Dieu is the Congregational (Protestant) Church, a plain build- ing seating about 600, erected in 1840. ST. PATRICK'S CHURCH. . In the adjoining street ( McMahon) is St. Patrick's Church, erected in 1832, now under the TRINITY CHAPEL, ETC. 39 ministration of the Redemptorist Fathers. It has lately been enlarged and greatly improved, artists having been engaged for the last year in beautifully frescoing the walls and ceilings. At- tached to it is the Presbytery, and in rear of it is the St. Patrick's Catholic Literary Institute, founded in 1852. TRINITY CHAPEL. The Trinity Chapel (Episcopal) in St. Stanis- laus street, was for some years used by the military, and was closed after the withdrawal of the troops. It has lately been opened as a Mission Chapel. THE METHODIST CHURCH. At the top of the same hill is the Methodist Church, erected in 1850, in a flamboyant style of architecture. It seats about 1,600. ST. ANDREW'S CHURCH. Close at hand is St. Andrew's Church, built in 1810 and enlarged in 1821. It accommodates o 1,500 persons. A manse and schoolhouse are attached. . MORRIN COLLEGE. til a building which was formerly the district gaol, erected in 1814, at a cost of $60,000, is the Morrin College, which was founded by the 40 GUIDE TO QUEBEC CITY. magnificent endowment of the late Dr. Morrin of Quebec in 1860, incorporated by Provincial Act of Parliament in 1861, and opened in Nove.nber, 1862. Its faculties of Arts and Law- are affiliated to McGill University of Montreal. Its faculty of Divinity is in connection with the Church of Scotland. The late Mr. Justice Aylwin presented it with his magnificent Lasv Library. THE LITERARY AND HISTORICAL SOCIETY. This Society, which was founded by Lord Dalhousie in 1824, has its rooms in Morrin College. It has a large Library and an extensive Museum, and is now in a flourishing condition. THE HIGH SCHOOL. The Quebec High School is a handsome build- ing, situate in St. Denis street, at the foot of the glacis stret(ihing downwards from the Citadel. It was established in 1845, and many of the lead- ing men of the city have received their education within its walls. CHALMERS CHURCH, in St. Ursule street, built after the Gothic style, was erected in 1852. It seats about 900 per- sons. Tliis church ^vas the scene of the Gavazzi riot, which took place in 1859, and was the cause of much imbitterment between the Roman Catholics and Protestants of the city. CHUP.CHES AND CONVENTS. 41 THE BAITIST CHURCH ift a small building in McMahon street, opposite the entrance to the Artillery Park, and was erected in 1854. THE FRENCH PROTESTANT CHURCH is a pretty little church situate in St. John street, and was erected in 1876. ST. MATTHEW'S CHAPEL (EPISCOPAL) is also situate in St. John strbet, erected on the English burial ground, which has long since been closed. St. Matthew's is built after the Gothic style, and is tastefully ornamented in its interior. During the last few years it has been considera- bly enlarged. There is another Episcopal chapel, St. Peter's, in St. Valier street, St. Roch, and the Mariners' Chapel on Champlain street. CHURCH AND CONVENT OF THE GREY SISTERS. This church is situate in St. Olivier street, but it is so hemmed in by the other buildings of the Sisterhood that it is hardly discernible, and, moreover, it is without a steeple since its last destruction by fire. On the occasion of the burninor of the Parliament Buildin'j^s. the sitting's of the Chambers were held in this church, or were about to be held, when it, too, fell a prey to iihe flames, and Parliament was removed to the '*.. f^ 42 GUIDE TO QUEBEC CITY. ] ; Music Hall. Grave suspicions were entertained at the time as to the cause of these two confla- grations. Hundreds of children are educated iu the School. JEFFREY HALE HOSPITAL is situate opposite the Convent of the Grey Sisters, and was founded by the late Jeffrey Hale, Esq., who parsed his life in doing good. It m under the d'vec. * m of a Board of Governors. THii ^RCTHERS' SCHOOL is also situate on Gallows' Hill, and has a very large attendance at a nominal rate of charges. LE BON PASTEUR AND OTHER RE- LIGIOUS ESTABLISHMENTS. The Church and Hospital of Le Bon Pasteur is situate on Lachevrotiere street. It is a refuge for lost women and a school of reform. St. John's Church is a large edifice on St. John street, being the Parish Church of the suburbs of that name. In St. Rochs there are two Catholic churches, the Parish Church and the Church of the Con- gregation, under the ministration of the Jesuits^ both situate in St. Joseph street, in which also are several schools for the instruction of girls. THE MARINE HOSPITAL. 43 In St. Sauveur there are the Parish Church and large schools. The Jf ospital of the Sacred Heart of Jesus is situate near the River St. Charles, in St. Sauveui*. The Belle vue Convent is situate at St. Foy, and the Convent of Jesus Marie at Sillery. The Finlay Asylum, of Gothic architecture, is situate on St. Foy road, just outside the toll- gate, and is a home for aged and infirm Pro- testants. On the Grand Alice, near the toll-gate, are three benevolent institutions— the Ladies' Protestant Home of the Church of England, Female Orphan Asylum, and St. Bridget's Asylum, near which last is the St. Patrick's Cemetery. Another Roman Catholic church, Notre Dame de la Grace, was opened at Cap Blanc last year, for the use of the French-Canadians in that part. THE MARINE HOSPITAL. This magnificent luilding is situate on the banks of the St. Charles, in the northern part of St. Rochs suburbs. It is built after the Ionic style of architecture^ and is said to be copied from the temple of the Muses on the River Ilissus, near Athens. Its site is on the place called La Vacherie, on the opposite side of the river to which Jacques Cartier met Donnacona in 1535 The foundation stone was laid in 1832 by Lord Aylmer, then Governor of Lower Canada, and the \M I 44 GUIDE TO QUEBEC CllY. building was completed in 1 884, at a cost of nearly $100. ()()(). It has accommodation for over six hundred patients. THE GENERAL HOSPITAL. The General Hospital is one of the finest in- stitutions of the kind in Canada, or the States. It is situated on the south bank of the St. Charles, not fav from the Marine Hospital. The buildings are extensive, and with the gardens cover a large area. It was founded by Mon- seigneur De St. Valier, second Bishop of Quebec, as an asylum for incurable diseases. In 1692 it was placed under the charge of the Hospitalieres Nuns, who in 1701 constituted a separate body from their sisters of th(^ Hotel-Dieu. Near the General Hospital is a wind-mill of a most old-fashioned order. It was used as a fort for the Convent. THE SKATING RINK. Just outside the city wall, on the Grand Allee, is the Quebec Skating Rink, supposed to be the finest on the Continent. It was finished in 1877, and opened in the winter of that year by Lieut.-Governor Letellier de St Just, on the occasion of a grand fancy dress ball, several of which are given during the season. The B Battery plays there in the afternoon of certain days of every week in the winter season. THE DRILL SHED, 45 THE DEPARTMENTAL BUILDINGS. The erection of the Departmental Buildings is being rapidly proceeded with, and the visitor in a 3^ear or two hence will be enabled to look upon a magnificent edifice, somewhat more suit- able than the present wretched barnlike buildings on Mountain Hill. The Departments will occu})}" the north, west and south sides of the square, while the east will be set apart for the Chambers, the contracts for which are not yet given out. THE DRILL SHED. This is by no means a magnificent building, erected on the south side of the Grand All(^e, not far from the Depaitmental I^uildings, but it sufiices for the object for which it was built, and has answered many otherpurposes. Besides being a drill shed, it was, after the destruction of the Montcalm Ward by fire, used as a refuge for the houseless, where they were fed for many weeks at the expense of the public and the charitably disposed. During the Provincial Exhibition of 1877 it was used for the reception of machinery and scien- tific models. Horticultural, poultry and dog shows have also been held there, and evenaprayer meeting has sanctified the locality. ill). iiHi. I: :.i' I 46 GUIDE TO QUEBEC CITY. QUEBR(! GAOL. On the Plains of Abraham is the massive building, the Quebec Gaol, built some few years ago to replace that now occupied by the Morrin College and Literary and Historical Society. THE OBSERVATORY. At a short distance further out on the Plains of Abraham is the Quebec Observatory, under the supervision of Commander Ashe, R.N. ¥Si| 3i5X^^lP\OJ^^. It can be said of Quebuc that the environ? are not surpassed or even equalled in romantic beauty 0^ picturesque wildness. One may take any stand- point in the city, and before him is a glorious panorama ; and at the end of nearly every street one may see a delightful vignette. MONTMORENCI. Leaving the City and crossing the River St. Charles by Dorchester Bridge, the visitor will drive along the Beauport road and within two miles will reach the Beauport Asylum, founded in 1845 by Drs. Morrin, Douglas and Fremont, with the promise of the support of Lord Metcalfe and his government. Since that time, the estab- lishment has been vastly increased and improv^ed ; there being the principal building, i ,'v/ing two wings, another building separate from the main, and a sort of villa structure for convalescent patients. There are now over 900 inmates within its walls. After passing the Asylum the village of Beauport may be said to commence, and its I y ill i : : 11 lii i a.' 48 GUIDE TO QUEBEC CITY. housse an Lv Taureau, by l)oatinen considered a dan^'oroiis s[M)t. 'J he view above the Fall is taken from the o|)[K)8ite side, tlie visitor ])assing over the Mont- morenci Urid^^', then through a field opposite the Hotel, and for whicli a charge is ma >dy, pooh "I i ; ii: li'ii '' 50 GUIDE TO QUEBEC CIT/. fit whose blackness makes night look pale. Here the waters eddy round in ever-quickening circles, raising in their wrath bubbles and frothy atoms to the surface, and suddenly leap onwards beneath the overhanging cliffs. Where the visitor stands shady nooks hidden in ferns and wild plants invite to rest, while the peculiar formation of the rocks serve as tables for pic-nic colla- tions. In the sumsr»^ these Natural Steps are the resort of pleasure parties, and the followers of Izaak Walton can tef'ipt from the angry torrent the most delicious o^' speckled trout. Near by is what' is' called the Fairy River, which mysteriously